# Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compatibility



## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

Please add to this or recommend corrections as it is just a response to multiple questions regarding what will work in what.

_First in formost you must determine what your frame takes. There are 4 primary options at this point. I am not including the other threaded options or BMX standards as they are rare for mountain bikes and most that have them probably wont need this help_

*1. BB30* - 30mm inner diameter bearings, Bearing fits directly in to the frame









*2. PF30 (Press Fit 30)* - 30mm inner diameter bearings, Bearing sits in a pressed in cup









*3.Press Fit, BB90, BB92, BB95* 24mm inner diameter bearings, pressed cup bearing 









*4. English Threaded Bottom Bracket* - This is the old threaded standard shell that takes outboard 24mm inner diameter bearings, square tapered and splined bottom brackets









If you have option *1* or *2* any 30mm crank will fit, it doesnt matter if its marketed as a BB30 or PF30 crank.

Also if you have bottom bracket *1* or *2* you can use a BB30 adapter like this.








This adapter allows you to use 24mm shaft cranks including: Shimano Hollow Tech II, FSA Mega Exo and Race Face X-Type. They are used in tandem with your existing bottom bracket. These adapters wont work with Sram GXP cranks as far as I know.

If you have bottom bracket *3* you can only use 24mm shaft cranks. Shimano Hollow Tech II, FSA Mega Exo and Race Face X-Type are all interchange with each others bottom brackets. Sram GXP uses its own Press Fit bottom bracket.

Bottom bracket *4* is much like bottom bracket 3 in that Shimano Hollow Tech II, FSA Mega Exo and Race Face X-Type all use interchangeable bottom brackets but Sram GXP takes its own bottom bracket. As stated above this bottom bracket shell (the bike) will also take the older standards.

Hopefully this is helpful and doesn't just add to the confusion.
Progression or marketing, most likely a little of both. Oh how I loath thee, bicycle industry.


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## Bob12676 (Sep 10, 2008)

Excellent thread, nice work Ronabrandt! :thumbsup:


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## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

This is, quite simply, AWESOME :thumbsup:
Just the info I've been looking for 

Now for the silly question:

If I wanted to use a square taper crank (don't ask why; kidding... this is for a friend), would the Velo Orange threadless BB work on a PF30 frame (2011 Giant XTC)? My friend mistakenly bought the frame as an upgrade to his ATX, thinking he could just switch all of his parts over to the new frame. He's new to MTBing and was not aware of all the different "standards" in BBs nowadays.

He doesn't really want to change his drivetrain as it would be too costly. Since he's currently on 8-speed, if he has to change his crankset to fit the BB, he has to change out his entire drivetrain!

So I'm doing some research for him to check out his alternatives.

Any input would be very much appreciated 

And Happy New Year btw


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

That wont work unfortunately. It is for threaded bottom brackets like bottom bracket 4. It is a cool solution for weird threads or ruined threads. There are BB30 9 speed crank sets available, and they will work with his 8 speed drive train. His cheapest option may be to get a BB30 bottom bracket, and some adapters like pictured above. Then just get some 9 speed 24mm shaft cranks. Either way its cheaper than a entire drivetrain.


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## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

ronabrandt said:


> That wont work unfortunately. It is for threaded bottom brackets like bottom bracket 4. It is a cool solution for weird threads or ruined threads. There are BB30 9 speed crank sets available, and they will work with his 8 speed drive train. His cheapest option may be to get a BB30 bottom bracket, and some adapters like pictured above. Then just get some 9 speed 24mm shaft cranks. Either way its cheaper than a entire drivetrain.


I figured as much. Thanks for that.

ta


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## Raine (Feb 1, 2012)

Excellent thread... I need to clear up a little dilemma, maybe you can help:

My 2012 Pivot 5.7 has an X9 GXP crank and the frame uses a press-fit BB92 bottom bracket. I'm planning on upgrading the Pivot, so I want to use that X9 crank on a new 29er build that uses "standard 73mm threaded BB" bottom bracket; to do this would I just need to get a GXP threaded BB for the 29er to have everything bolt on? Which also makes me wonder if you can swap GXP cranks back and forth as long as the bottom brackets are also GXP (threaded, BB92)?


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## Team Fubar Rider (Sep 3, 2003)

r1Gel,

Truvativ makes a PF30 adapter that should work for your friend's need.

BTI | Truvativ BB-shell adapter kit, PF30 to BSA (threaded) - 68/73mm


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

They are bottom bracket FITMENTS. There is only one standard that's why its called a standard!


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

I wonder about the FSA/Shimano compatibility.
I just swapped a FSA crank from my 2009 Kona Unit with a SLX from another bike.
My intention was just to swap cranksets.
When I tried to install the FSA in the other bike with the SLX bottom bracket, it was tight going through the first bearing, had to use a dead blow hammer just a bit. However, when I went to seat the crankset fully in the bearings, I couldn't do it. I used the dead blow hammer but it wouldn't fully seat, at least 1/4" of shaft still out of the bearing - I was afraid to do it too much in case I wouldn't be able to get it back out.
I should have checked with my calipers but just swapped bottom brackets. Everything went together easy after I did that.
And yes, the bottom bracket had been faced and chased. Wonder if it was just tolerance stacking or if there is a slight difference.

Oops, didn't notice it was a zombie thread.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Slash5 said:


> I wonder about the FSA/Shimano compatibility.
> I just swapped a FSA crank from my 2009 Kona Unit with a SLX from another bike.
> My intention was just to swap cranksets.
> When I tried to install the FSA in the other bike with the SLX bottom bracket, it was tight going through the first bearing, had to use a dead blow hammer just a bit. However, when I went to seat the crankset fully in the bearings, I couldn't do it. I used the dead blow hammer but it wouldn't fully seat, at least 1/4" of shaft still out of the bearing - I was afraid to do it too much in case I wouldn't be able to get it back out.
> ...


Shimano runs a -0/+.xxx tolerance and FSA is the reverse. If your lucky they will work together but more often than not they clash.


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## Aortiz (Sep 19, 2012)

First post here. Since this is a bottom bracket guide, I have a 2012 Giant trance x3 and I was planning to buy a new crankset. Currently, the bike has a Deore crankset with pressfit BB. I was looking to upgrade to the truvativ X0 which is bb30. Do I will get any issues? Thanks in advance and looking forward to post more often.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

In a thread like this, I just have to give a shout to Praxis Works and their Conversion Bottom-Bracket:

Praxis Works | Conversion Kit

There's no better solution for running 24mm Hollowtech cranks on a BB30 or PF30 frame. For that matter, it's a good solution period, and possibly better than running anything press fit.


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## dthomp325 (Feb 15, 2007)

Aortiz said:


> First post here. Since this is a bottom bracket guide, I have a 2012 Giant trance x3 and I was planning to buy a new crankset. Currently, the bike has a Deore crankset with pressfit BB. I was looking to upgrade to the truvativ X0 which is bb30. Do I will get any issues? Thanks in advance and looking forward to post more often.


That won't work. You can either stick to a Shimano, Raceface X-Type, or FSA Mega-Exo crank and save the bottom bracket, or go with a Sram GXP crank and get a new BB to go with it. BB30 is not compatible with your frame.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

Any chance we could get this cleaned up and stickied before it disappears off page 5?


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## EatMotorOil (Sep 20, 2012)

Also, there is the e13 threaded BB with 30mm bearings for option 4


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## zenkem (Dec 18, 2007)

Subscribed!!! This is the Thread I've been looking for...


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Aortiz said:


> First post here. Since this is a bottom bracket guide, I have a 2012 Giant trance x3 and I was planning to buy a new crankset. Currently, the bike has a Deore crankset with pressfit BB. I was looking to upgrade to the truvativ X0 which is bb30. Do I will get any issues? Thanks in advance and looking forward to post more often.


Maybe a bit late to help with your particular situation, but wanted to post up about the possibility to run a BB30 mountain crank in press-in BB92 BB shell: BB92 TO BB30 BOTTOM BRACKET KIT


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

I've searched through the forums and haven't found an answer, so I'll try it here. I have a 2010 Trek Remedy that uses a Shimano M542 (Hallowtech 2) crank with a BB50? bottom bracket. I've got some SRAM BB30/PF30 cranks that I'd like to use, if possible. Do I just need to buy a BB30 bottom bracket or is this something I'm missing? I'm wondering if its really that simple and I'm overcomplicating it in my head... Thanks in advance!


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## AlexRandall (Apr 2, 2009)

mayonays said:


> I've searched through the forums and haven't found an answer, so I'll try it here. I have a 2010 Trek Remedy that uses a Shimano M542 (Hallowtech 2) crank with a BB50? bottom bracket. I've got some SRAM BB30/PF30 cranks that I'd like to use, if possible. Do I just need to buy a BB30 bottom bracket or is this something I'm missing? I'm wondering if its really that simple and I'm overcomplicating it in my head... Thanks in advance!


BB 30 won't work in your frame. You can convert from the wider BB30 shell down to a 24mm spindle, but not the other way around. Also the bearing spacing on your frame is too wide for a BB30 spindle to fit through.


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

Question - I just bought a FSA crankset that comes with a Ceramic BB30 BB. I'm getting a frame that uses PF30.
I know PF30 fits in ~46mm shell, and BB30 bearings fit in ~42mmshell. 

Is there an off chance that the BB30 bearings fit the PF30 plastic housing? If so, I'll buy a cheaper PF30 BB and swap the nicer ceramics into the housing.


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## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Pretty sure BB30 and PF30 bearings are identical. Not sure how easy it will be to do the swap without damaging the housing though.


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## zerodish (Jun 17, 2006)

Then there is this thing I plan to use the 47 mm adaptors with a BB 30 crank. DSC02724 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## pulser (Dec 6, 2004)

I have a Salsa Spearfish with a PF30 bb. It has a Sram PF30bb and I am using the wheels manufacturing adapters shown in the OP with a Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank. It works but its vary tight. There is too much compression on the BB and it wont spin with out resistance. It works but I don't expect the BB to last long. The better way to go for Race Face cranks is there adapter BB if you can find it.

Race Face 2013

I have herd good things about the Parlee adapters.


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

I have a 2013 Trek Rumblefish that has press fit bottom bracket for a Sram crank will a Shimano Xt hallowtech fit in this bottom bracket? Any body have a Rumblefish here that can help Thanks


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

Xt hollow tech cranks use a 24mm spindle where press fit and bb30 use 30mm, so no it won't work. 

You can get adapters that plug into your pf30 bb that will allow the simanos to work though. Or you can replace the whole bb with one of the complete units that have been mentioned in this thread.

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

Great thread...but. I've got an X9 crank that came out of a GXP BB shell from a Trek X-caliber. I'd like to use the crank on one of Trek's new Stache frames, which uses a press-fit bearing. Problem is I don't know and can't find reference to whether it is PF30, or what. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

Measure the diameter of the bottom bracket on the bike. Each of the standards has a different diameter.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

BlackMamba2012 said:


> I have a 2013 Trek Rumblefish that has press fit bottom bracket for a Sram crank will a Shimano Xt hallowtech fit in this bottom bracket? Any body have a Rumblefish here that can help Thanks


That is a "BB92." It's also called "BB91" and is also the same as "BB89.5". Basically means it's a press fit mountain standard with a BB shell ID of 41mm. Since SRAM is 24mm one side and 22mm on the other side, you can't just put a Shimano crank set into the same BB. You would need a replacement BB from Shimano in the BB92 standard or an aftermarket version. The part number for the standard Shimano-manufactured version is BB71-41A. We have several aftermarket versions with various bearing options here: PRESS-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS, CERAMIC HYBRID


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mhopton said:


> Great thread...but. I've got an X9 crank that came out of a GXP BB shell from a Trek X-caliber. I'd like to use the crank on one of Trek's new Stache frames, which uses a press-fit bearing. Problem is I don't know and can't find reference to whether it is PF30, or what. Any help would be appreciated.


The Stache uses the "BB91/BB92/BB89.5" standard. In other words, 41mm inside diameter BB shell that uses press-in cups. You would need either a SRAM-manufactured "Pressfit GXP Adaptor, Mountain" or an aftermarket version like those we offer here: PRESS-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS, CERAMIC HYBRID. You would need to select a "GXP" option as opposed to a "HT2" option.


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## Praxis Works (May 10, 2011)

Hi All, 
Praxis here, and thanks for all the emails about this thread and the questions about our Conversion BB for Shimano cranks. We're doing everything we can to stay on top of demand so thanks for your patience...and yes...more versions for other cranks are coming soon.

We simply wanted to make a PROPER BB and not a spacer/adaptor. Our unique design seems to have struck a chord with riders/mechanics and we're glad to help people out with a real solution for a rock solid BB for Shimano cranks on BB30, PF30, or the Specialized ROAD frame OSBB.

Updated Product Page link here : Praxis Works | Conversion Kit Raw YouTube video also there of full explanation from the floor at Core Bike Show in UK.

If any other questions feel free to email from our Contact page email. 
Thanks, 
[email protected]


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

Where can I find a list of bikes that use BB30? Other than Cannondale. Google doesn't help.


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

Wow, I just checked in on this thread since a lot of great products have become available to make cranks a little more cross compatible. Sorry to those that didnt get there questions answered. 

Unfortunately I cant edit my op, reading it after all this time showed me some points of confusion.


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## e-luder (Mar 25, 2008)

Some more quick references 

Frame bottom bracket shell inner diameter measurements

BB30 Shell Diameter: 42mm
PF30 Shell Diameter: 46mm
BB86/92 (press-fit) shell Diameter: 41mm

Also I should clarify that BB90/95 are not the same as BB86/92. It is/was only used by Trek in there carbon frames as far as I know and essentially uses the bearings from the BB86/92 bottom brackets with out the plastic cups. Much like a BB30 is a to PF30. For the record it has a 37mm Shell Diameter so a quick measurement will tell you if you have this or not.


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

I am working on a bike for my daughter. It's a 34cm Ghost that has a PF30 BB shell. I am planning on running a short 140mm crank in a 1x10 set up until she grows and can be updated to a 165mm crank. What this means is I am stuck with using a Square taper or Isis bottom bracket foe right now. With the current adaptor posted in this thread I should be able to run an Isis BB in my PF30 frame so the short BMX cranks can be used, correct? If this is the case, what width of Isis bottom bracket should I use?


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## cjtennis123 (Jun 5, 2013)

I'm working on upgrading my bike (even more than it is), and am trying to find measurements for the bb and cranks. It's a 2012 Giant Trance X4 and I'm trying to see if I can fit a Shimano Zee or Saint groupset to it. Any help would be great.

And one quick question that I haven't been able to find any answers for... Would I be able to fit a threaded bb to my bike? It has a press fit currently, and it's been a b**** trying to make a 1x set up work on it. 

Thanks in advance!


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## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

You want the threaded BB to mount a chain guide? I'm not sure if/how that would work with any of the adapters out there. I would instead suggest getting a clutch type rear mech and one of these chainrings:
wolftoothcycling.com
Race Face 2013


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## cjtennis123 (Jun 5, 2013)

That's what I had planned on doing, I was just curious if it could be done and work properly with a chain guide. Thanks!


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## FoolCyclist (Jan 30, 2004)

Anyone have experience with the Race Face BB adapter for PF30 frames? I have always ridden and raced on RF Turbines. Building up a Niner Air 9 that has 73mm width PF30 interface. I see that RF makes their own BB to fit to be able to run their cranks. Just not sure how durable or good the adapter is. I have had my share of bombproof RF BBs and really crappy RF BBs as they made new ones to fit the external bearing cranksets. Just hoping for some feedback from someone who has tried it.


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## ibis315 (Oct 17, 2005)

*XX1 BB30 installed in 68mm BSA BB*

I'm running XX1 BB30 crank in my old-school steel frame.









The XX1 BB30 crank's axle measures ~89mm without the bearing preloader. 68mm BB faced at local shop, measures at 68.3mm.
I bought external BB30 BSA threaded bottom bracket bearing cups from Enduro. Each bearing cup measures ~10mm, so with BB and cups, total came to ~88mm. I installed the NDS arm minus the preload adjuster. Sure enough, the crank interface barely clears the bearing cup. I installed the DS without any spacers and torqued it to spec. Chainline measures at 49mm per SRAM. The crank spins freely without any drag or play. I've been running this setup without any issues.


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## iambill (Apr 26, 2010)

*Octalink BB 1995 GT Zaskar*

I have a 1994 GT Zaskar frame (based on the serial number). I am trying to install an XTR octalink bottom bracket. Everything I'm reading says 73x107mm, but I cannot find such size in octalink. Is there anyone that knows the solution to this problem?


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## pulser (Dec 6, 2004)

FoolCyclist said:


> Anyone have experience with the Race Face BB adapter for PF30 frames? I have always ridden and raced on RF Turbines. Building up a Niner Air 9 that has 73mm width PF30 interface. I see that RF makes their own BB to fit to be able to run their cranks. Just not sure how durable or good the adapter is. I have had my share of bombproof RF BBs and really crappy RF BBs as they made new ones to fit the external bearing cranksets. Just hoping for some feedback from someone who has tried it.


I switched to one on my Salsa frame before I had to Warranty it. I had a few problems pressing it in. It wouldn't go straight in it kept getting cocked in the frame. I got it in after a lot of fussing with it. Once my frame was warranted I had a hell of a time getting the BB out. It presses in so tight that I tore it up quite badly trying to get it out. When I tried to get in in the new frame I had the same problem it wouldn't go straight. It ended up damaging the BB shell on the frame. I trashed it and went to the plastic SRAM press in adapter to run a normal raceface BB. In concept its nice but in practice its not so nice. The outside of the BB needs to be plastic not metal so you can't damage your frame trying to press it in.


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## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

iambill said:


> I have a 1994 GT Zaskar frame (based on the serial number). I am trying to install an XTR octalink bottom bracket. Everything I'm reading says 73x107mm, but I cannot find such size in octalink. Is there anyone that knows the solution to this problem?


113 is the shortest overall spindle I think you can get in an octalink. 3mm per side won't matter since you're going a little wider anyway, and I'd bet the Q factor on Octalink cranks has a narrower profile to compensate for the larger crank to spindle interface.


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## iambill (Apr 26, 2010)

Thank you for that information. In addition, so I've discovered, Shimano 105 octalink comes in 109.5mm, but I will try out a cheap 113 before I go all out on the XTR BB. Thanks for your input! Happy trails!


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

Praxis Works said:


> Hi All,
> Praxis here, and thanks for all the emails about this thread and the questions about our Conversion BB for Shimano cranks. We're doing everything we can to stay on top of demand so thanks for your patience...and yes...more versions for other cranks are coming soon.
> 
> We simply wanted to make a PROPER BB and not a spacer/adaptor. Our unique design seems to have struck a chord with riders/mechanics and we're glad to help people out with a real solution for a rock solid BB for Shimano cranks on BB30, PF30, or the Specialized ROAD frame OSBB.
> ...


Adam your design is brilliant, I will be ordering one the minute I get my frame..

What kind of channels do you have to order one, LBS, direct...??


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Just to clarify:
Current setup is a BB92 bottom bracket with a Raceface Evolve crankset.
Assuming I intend to use a modern non-BB30 or non-PF30 based crankset. My options to change crankset are:

1. Keep the Bottom Bracket in place and replace with any Shimano or Raceface crankset with 24mm spindle.

2. Get a Sram/Truvative GXP BB92 bottom bracket. Then get any Sram/Truvativ standard crankset (ie non-BB30).

3. Do something elaborate with adaptors from 3rd party vendors and try to use a weird combination of cranks and expensive bottom brackets.

Spindle lengths don't matter? It's never listed in an item description.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

jm2e said:


> Just to clarify:
> Current setup is a BB92 bottom bracket with a Raceface Evolve crankset.
> Assuming I intend to use a modern non-BB30 or non-PF30 based crankset. My options to change crankset are:
> 
> ...


Since right up front you excluded any crankset with a 30mm spindle, I'm not sure why you list option number 3 about elaborate adapters. What's to adapt to? I you are running a Shimano (or RF) crank, standard BB92 is fine. If you are running a GXP crank, BB92 for GXP is fine. You already defined the cranksets. Even sticking with those two types of cranks (HT2 and GXP), you still have many BB options (aluminum cups vs. plastic) and many bearing options. You can see some of the many BB92 options (both HT2 and GXP) here: PRESS-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS, CERAMIC HYBRID. Of course these are our offerings. There are many other options from other manufacturers as well.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

*Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compat...*



jm2e said:


> Just to clarify:
> Current setup is a BB92 bottom bracket with a Raceface Evolve crankset.
> Assuming I intend to use a modern non-BB30 or non-PF30 based crankset. My options to change crankset are:
> 
> ...


All correct, though I would get an Enduro BB92 bottom bracket. Available for Shimano style or SRAM GXP cranks.


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Chris2fur said:


> Since right up front you excluded any crankset with a 30mm spindle, I'm not sure why you list option number 3 about elaborate adapters. What's to adapt to?


All I'm trying to do is get a Sram X9 crankset so that I can start experimenting with a spiderless chainring system. Just want to make sure I'm not buying the wrong parts.
Since the world of bottom brackets and cranksets is confusing to me, I don't know what would need adapting too. I just now realized that a Sram BB30 crank won't go into a Sram BB92 bottom bracket because the spindle is too thick. Since the expensive and confusing bottom bracket adapters keep coming up, I thought maybe there was something else I needed to know before jumping in. Since I can get a Sram BB92 bottom bracket for $35 I'm not sure why I'd go with a 3rd party, but please do enlighten me.
Thanks for all the help.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

jm2e said:


> All I'm trying to do is get a Sram X9 crankset so that I can start experimenting with a spiderless chainring system. Just want to make sure I'm not buying the wrong parts.
> Since the world of bottom brackets and cranksets is confusing to me, I don't know what would need adapting too. I just now realized that a Sram BB30 crank won't go into a Sram BB92 bottom bracket because the spindle is too thick. Since the expensive and confusing bottom bracket adapters keep coming up, I thought maybe there was something else I needed to know before jumping in. Since I can get a Sram BB92 bottom bracket for $35 I'm not sure why I'd go with a 3rd party, but please do enlighten me.
> Thanks for all the help.


You are so right on the confusion. BB "standards" have exploded over that last few years. I hope I don't add to the confusion by telling you that, in some cases, a BB30 crank can be run in a BB92 shell (BB92 TO BB30 BOTTOM BRACKET KIT). This would be one of those times when spindle length does matter--since not all BB30 MTB cranks do have long enough spindles to make the conversion. Unfortunately, as you pointed out earlier, this info is rarely offered by manufacturers.

As far as your question about why you might consider a 3rd party BB, it is really a question of performance. It's mostly related to friction reduction. Some options also offer greater longevity and greater corrosion resistance.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

*Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compat...*



jm2e said:


> All I'm trying to do is get a Sram X9 crankset so that I can start experimenting with a spiderless chainring system. Just want to make sure I'm not buying the wrong parts.
> Since the world of bottom brackets and cranksets is confusing to me, I don't know what would need adapting too. I just now realized that a Sram BB30 crank won't go into a Sram BB92 bottom bracket because the spindle is too thick. Since the expensive and confusing bottom bracket adapters keep coming up, I thought maybe there was something else I needed to know before jumping in. Since I can get a Sram BB92 bottom bracket for $35 I'm not sure why I'd go with a 3rd party, but please do enlighten me.
> Thanks for all the help.


Just get the X9 GXP crankset. Be sure you buy the GXP versions of the direct mount rings. Not the same as the BB30 rings.

The Enduro BBs have much nicer bearings and the bearing are replaceable at a reasonable cost. I think you do not even need to remove the cups to do that. Chris?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

shiggy said:


> Just get the X9 GXP crankset. Be sure you buy the GXP versions of the direct mount rings. Not the same as the BB30 rings.
> 
> The Enduro BBs have much nicer bearings and the bearing are replaceable at a reasonable cost. I think you do not even need to remove the cups to do that. Chris?


Using a bearing removal tool specific for BB92 will sometimes remove just the bearing, but sometimes the cup will come with it. It depends on how tight the press fit is on a particular application.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Thought this thread could use some info about the newer Shimano threaded BB's although they are backwards compatible to older cranks they use different tools.

First is the XTR SM-BB93 This cup shape is also shared by the DA 9000 BB. The cups on these are almost flush with the outside of the BB shell once installed








Next is the Ultegra 6800 and what will become the new XT BB in time. This cup has a size that's between the DA/XTR one and the original outboard cup size requiring yet another tool. 








It's worth noting that all of these bottom brackets are compatible with their respective cranks. The ID is still designed around a 24mm spindle so it's not an issue to get one of the new BB's for an older crankset.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Regarding the new Shimano external BBs with the "mini-cups" pictured above, I believe they ship with a plastic insert for putting inside a standard outboard BB cup tool. However, excuse my snarkiness in saying any pipe wrench or set of channel locks will do to remove them from the bike and throw them in the trash. Many end users think they need to buy a special bottom bracket to replace these when they fail, but any Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket will replace them. Shimano usually puts quality first, but these bearings do not even stand up to road use. I highly doubt these are going to cut it for mountain bike applications. The only advantage of the new design is to save weight. In this case, it comes at a price--they are weak.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

*Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compat...*



Chris2fur said:


> Regarding the new Shimano external BBs with the "mini-cups" pictured above, I believe they ship with a plastic insert for putting inside a standard outboard BB cup tool. However, excuse my snarkiness in saying any pipe wrench or set of channel locks will do to remove them from the bike and throw them in the trash. Many end users think they need to buy a special bottom bracket to replace these when they fail, but any Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket will replace them. Shimano usually puts quality first, but these bearings do not even stand up to road use. I highly doubt these are going to cut it for mountain bike applications. The only advantage of the new design is to save weight. In this case, it comes at a price--they are weak.


I noticed that the external bearing cups have greatly reduced clearance for small BCD rings, making it impossible to get a proper chainline.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

shiggy said:


> I noticed that the external bearing cups have greatly reduced clearance for small BCD rings, making it impossible to get a proper chainline.


Hmm. As compared to a press fit, you mean? The OD should work out about the same, as well as the bearing placement, in most cases.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

*Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compat...*



Chris2fur said:


> Hmm. As compared to a press fit, you mean? The OD should work out about the same, as well as the bearing placement, in most cases.


No, compared to traditional internal bearing BBs

The press fit BBs are worse because the frame is the limiting factor. I modified a carbon frame so the 74mm chainring bolts would clear, and the chainline is still too far outboard.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

shiggy said:


> No, compared to traditional internal bearing BBs
> 
> The press fit BBs are worse because the frame is the limiting factor. I modified a carbon frame so the 74mm chainring bolts would clear, and the chainline is still too far outboard.


I see what you mean now. Run the cookie-cutter options, and you are OK, but step outside the norm and you have limiting factors by moving the bearings further out?


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

*Bottom Bracket Standards - a guide to BB30, PF30, and Outboard Bearing compat...*



Chris2fur said:


> I see what you mean now. Run the cookie-cutter options, and you are OK, but step outside the norm and you have limiting factors by moving the bearings further out?


Yup, the 50/51mm crank chainline is used for ring/FD/big tire/short stays clearance, not drivetrain efficiency. It really should be used with a 150mm hub rather than 135.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Chris2fur said:


> Regarding the new Shimano external BBs with the "mini-cups" pictured above, I believe they ship with a plastic insert for putting inside a standard outboard BB cup tool. However, excuse my snarkiness in saying any pipe wrench or set of channel locks will do to remove them from the bike and throw them in the trash. Many end users think they need to buy a special bottom bracket to replace these when they fail, but any Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket will replace them. Shimano usually puts quality first, but these bearings do not even stand up to road use. I highly doubt these are going to cut it for mountain bike applications. The only advantage of the new design is to save weight. In this case, it comes at a price--they are weak.


That's an interesting opinion. The pro road teams were having pretty good durability out of them last season. If they can stand up to the pressure washing and power those riders and mechanics put out I'm thinking there up to the task.

The supplied plastic insert is still shipping with new BB's but it's a half baked solution that won't work with a lot of BB tools. It's meant to work with Shimano's loose fitting spanner and sockets. If you're using something like the one Enduro or I make it's not going to fit well, if at all. I do make a dedicated socket for those two odd sizes though.


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## ducmanducman (May 12, 2008)

Any useropinions on the new BB93 botbracket? 
I wonder wich one is the best to use BB90 or the new BB93?
I have to make the choice for multi day marathon racing...
Don't wont it to break down on me in the middle of the week...


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

ducmanducman said:


> Any useropinions on the new BB93 botbracket?
> I wonder wich one is the best to use BB90 or the new BB93?
> I have to make the choice for multi day marathon racing...
> Don't wont it to break down on me in the middle of the week...


BB90 is the Trek net molded sockets. I don't see how it's possible to have a choice between BB90 and BB93. Did you possibly misstate your choice?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

customfab said:


> That's an interesting opinion. The pro road teams were having pretty good durability out of them last season. If they can stand up to the pressure washing and power those riders and mechanics put out I'm thinking there up to the task.


Well, I always reserve the right to be wrong. This is based on many customers looking for replacement bottom brackets and thinking they were locked into this design (not knowing they could use any other HT2 threaded BB).

Are you sure the BBs held up to pro team use? Just because that's what they were running doesn't mean they weren't changing them out regularly. If you have inside info that they were not changing them and were indeed pressure washing the same BB throughout the season, that would definitely be worth considering.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

customfab said:


> The supplied plastic insert is still shipping with new BB's but it's a half baked solution that won't work with a lot of BB tools. It's meant to work with Shimano's loose fitting spanner and sockets. If you're using something like the one Enduro or I make it's not going to fit well, if at all. I do make a dedicated socket for those two odd sizes though.


We are in complete agreement on this.


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## marshalolson (Jun 27, 2007)

ok, strange question -- 

the new raceface next sl cranks use a 30mm spindle. can i use a RF 30mm bottom bracket to put a bb30 crank on a standard english threaded frame?

anyone every try this?

thanks!


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

marshalolson said:


> ok, strange question --
> 
> the new raceface next sl cranks use a 30mm spindle. can i use a RF 30mm bottom bracket to put a bb30 crank on a standard english threaded frame?
> 
> ...


Absolutely. The Next SL has a long enough spindle to run an external BB30 bottom bracket. They show compatibility right on their site. We've verified our EX30 bottom brackets also work with the Next SL crank.


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## marshalolson (Jun 27, 2007)

thank you kindly for the reply. 

i did a little digging harder this am, and it looks like a 30mm english BB can fit a bb30 crank to a 68mm frame, but the spindle of a bb30 crank is too narrow to fit it to a 73mm frame. 

cheers!


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

marshalolson said:


> thank you kindly for the reply.
> 
> i did a little digging harder this am, and it looks like a 30mm english BB can fit a bb30 crank to a 68mm frame, but the spindle of a bb30 crank is too narrow to fit it to a 73mm frame.
> 
> cheers!


Not so according to Race Face. Not all BB30 cranks have the same spindle length. This is from Race Face specifically about the Next SL:

Specs & Colours
BUILT FOR: XC Race/Trail/Enduro
SIZE: 170, 175mm
BB OPTIONS: BB92, 68/73 BSA, 100mm BSA, PF30

They specifically list 73 BSA.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

marshalolson said:


> thank you kindly for the reply.
> 
> i did a little digging harder this am, and it looks like a 30mm english BB can fit a bb30 crank to a 68mm frame, but the spindle of a bb30 crank is too narrow to fit it to a 73mm frame.
> 
> cheers!


Face-to-face of the cups is spec'd at 98.1mm +/- 1mm. That's quite a bit of room. See this install diagram:


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## Woodman (Mar 12, 2006)

Great thread, all the new standards for BBs is way confusing.

I have a 2013 Kona Satori that came with a Press-fit 92 BB and SLX cranks. I recently swapped out the full drivetrain for the Sram XO1 kit which I love except for the creaking GXP press fit BB with plastic cups. 

Any suggestions/solutions?

Thanks. 

Woody


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Chris2fur said:


> Well, I always reserve the right to be wrong. This is based on many customers looking for replacement bottom brackets and thinking they were locked into this design (not knowing they could use any other HT2 threaded BB).
> 
> Are you sure the BBs held up to pro team use? Just because that's what they were running doesn't mean they weren't changing them out regularly. If you have inside info that they were not changing them and were indeed pressure washing the same BB throughout the season, that would definitely be worth considering.


The answer I got when I talked to the dozen or so teams running 9000 groups the last two seasons was that durability was as good or better than the 7900 BB. This from half a dozen world tour mechanics and a couple of domestic guys as well.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

customfab said:


> The answer I got when I talked to the dozen or so teams running 9000 groups the last two seasons was that durability was as good or better than the 7900 BB. This from half a dozen world tour mechanics and a couple of domestic guys as well.


Well, it took you a while, but it would be an understatement to say that the reference list is impressive.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Woodman said:


> Great thread, all the new standards for BBs is way confusing.
> 
> I have a 2013 Kona Satori that came with a Press-fit 92 BB and SLX cranks. I recently swapped out the full drivetrain for the Sram XO1 kit which I love except for the creaking GXP press fit BB with plastic cups.
> 
> ...


Press fit BBs have been frustrating for many people. I think I mentioned previously that there are many cases of out-of-round shells and I.D. tolerances not being met. Just one personal example of a particularly bad frame was a Specialized with the carbon "OSBB" standard (46mm ID x 61mm Wide). Checking with a single press fit cup, one side of the BB shell was a tight fit, while on the other side, the same cup would slide right into the shell and actually had play.

Sometimes in particularly loose fitting applications a couple of wraps of Teflon plumbers' tape will take up the slack and also provide pretty good noise dampening. If you use this method you still have to watch that the cup doesn't rotate under load. Some end users find nothing works but using Loctite to essentially glue the cups into place. Understandably, many are hesitant to do this, especially in a carbon shell. It's not easy to get a bottom bracket installed in this way back out.

Where tolerances are good and proper press fit can be achieved, nothing more than grease may be required. Personally, I prefer the aluminum cups with O-rings for press fit applications when possible, but you are still at the mercy of the frame manufacturer as far as having to hope the BB shell is properly done. If not, you are back to playing with Teflon tape and/or Loctite again.


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## Woodman (Mar 12, 2006)

Thanks for the response. I had thought of trying the plumber tape theory so good to hear I was not off base. It does not sound as if you offer a BB w/ alum cups compatible?



Chris2fur said:


> Press fit BBs have been frustrating for many people. I think I mentioned previously that there are many cases of out-of-round shells and I.D. tolerances not being met. Just one personal example of a particularly bad frame was a Specialized with the carbon "OSBB" standard (46mm ID x 61mm Wide). Checking with a single press fit cup, one side of the BB shell was a tight fit, while on the other side, the same cup would slide right into the shell and actually had play.
> 
> Sometimes in particularly loose fitting applications a couple of wraps of Teflon plumbers' tape will take up the slack and also provide pretty good noise dampening. If you use this method you still have to watch that the cup doesn't rotate under load. Some end users find nothing works but using Loctite to essentially glue the cups into place. Understandably, many are hesitant to do this, especially in a carbon shell. It's not easy to get a bottom bracket installed in this way back out.
> 
> Where tolerances are good and proper press fit can be achieved, nothing more than grease may be required. Personally, I prefer the aluminum cups with O-rings for press fit applications when possible, but you are still at the mercy of the frame manufacturer as far as having to hope the BB shell is properly done. If not, you are back to playing with Teflon tape and/or Loctite again.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Woodman said:


> Thanks for the response. I had thought of trying the plumber tape theory so good to hear I was not off base. It does not sound as if you offer a BB w/ alum cups compatible?


Actually we do, I was just addressing the creaking issues you had. Any of the mountain BB92 offerings on this page are compatible: PRESS-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS, CERAMIC HYBRID.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Chris2fur said:


> Well, it took you a while, but it would be an understatement to say that the reference list is impressive.


I've got a business to run after all. If I don't make tools for those customers they tend to not fill me in on these kinds of things.


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## samsolong (Nov 17, 2013)

OK, I went on Praxis website and it says the solution to convert BB30/PF30/OSBB to SRAM GXP/ISIS2 is not yet available. Is their any other solution that I can use right now?

I have a SRAM XX1 MOUNTAIN GXP 1X11 CRANK arm and I want to take that and install it on a frame that is BB30 ? Can this be done as of today?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

samsolong said:


> OK, I went on Praxis website and it says the solution to convert BB30/PF30/OSBB to SRAM GXP/ISIS2 is not yet available. Is their any other solution that I can use right now?
> 
> I have a SRAM XX1 MOUNTAIN GXP 1X11 CRANK arm and I want to take that and install it on a frame that is BB30 ? Can this be done as of today?


Absolutely. KCNC/RWC BB30 to GXP BB Adapter with Enduro ZERO Bearings 
Some are out of stock, but we will have levels back up next week.


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## samsolong (Nov 17, 2013)

Thank you Chris2fur, 
I have been stumped with this problem for months now and this looks like it will work without having to change the whole new crankset! will keep you all posted how it goes!


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

samsolong said:


> Thank you Chris2fur,
> I have been stumped with this problem for months now and this looks like it will work without having to change the whole new crankset! will keep you all posted how it goes!


Awesome! Thanks for the order. Looking forward to your feedback.


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## samsolong (Nov 17, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the order. Looking forward to your feedback.


Chris2fur,
Received the BB and the instruction sheet came with it says it is ONLY FOR USE WITH 'HALLOWTECH 2" CRANKSET WITH 24MM SPINDLE . I have a "SRAM XX1 MOUNTAIN GXP 1X11 CRANK arm" will this still work ?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

samsolong said:


> Chris2fur,
> Received the BB and the instruction sheet came with it says it is ONLY FOR USE WITH 'HALLOWTECH 2" CRANKSET WITH 24MM SPINDLE . I have a "SRAM XX1 MOUNTAIN GXP 1X11 CRANK arm" will this still work ?


You either got shipped the wrong item or it has the wrong instructions. You can tell if you have the right BB by checking the non-drive (L) side. It should have a 22mm inside diameter. The drive side will be 24mm. Also, please let me know what the SKU number on the header card is. You should probably email me directly ([email protected]).


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## Dirt n Dust (Mar 21, 2014)

Any suggestions on a replacement BB for the Truvativ Power Spline? I want to upgrade to a 1x crankset.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

You should start a new thread.
You want a new BB or a new crank? The Power Spline is proprietary to Truvativ and you will need to replace it with another.


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## Dirt n Dust (Mar 21, 2014)

I'm looking to replace the crankset but I don't know what other BBs will work on my frame's bb shell. There aren't many crank options for the Power Spline.


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

customfab said:


> They are bottom bracket FITMENTS. There is only one standard that's why its called a standard!


Nope.

The funny thing about standards for bike stuff is that there are more standards to choose from every ****ing year.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Alright, I've got a 2011 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp (specs here) and I'm 99% sure I've got a PF30 bottom bracket mount.

I'm looking to replace my crankset and BB -- will any 'GXP' crankset work with my bike?

Anyone have any specific recommendations for a crankset that will fit my bike? It seems hard to come by 10 speed PF30s.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Alright, I've got a 2011 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp (specs here) and I'm 99% sure I've got a PF30 bottom bracket mount.
> 
> I'm looking to replace my crankset and BB -- will any 'GXP' crankset work with my bike?
> 
> Anyone have any specific recommendations for a crankset that will fit my bike? It seems hard to come by 10 speed PF30s.


Not an easy question. Specialized is confusing as hell when it comes to what bottom brackets are on which frames. Sometimes I think they themselves don't remember what they did on a given frame. Your frame is alloy, right? So, there are two possibilities: 1) 73mm wide BSA (threaded). 2) 73mm wide x 46mm ID press fit. 
If you follow your own link, and read the specs, for the BB it says: "SRAM GXP, outboard bearing." Outboard bearings are by definition outside the BB shell in a cup. That would indicate a threaded bottom bracket. Flip over your bike. If aluminum cups are sticking outside the BB shell they will be obvious. Once you know for sure which BB shell you have, crank and BB recommendations will be easy.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Not an easy question. Specialized is confusing as hell when it comes to what bottom brackets are on which frames. Sometimes I think they themselves don't remember what they did on a given frame. Your frame is alloy, right? So, there are two possibilities: 1) 73mm wide BSA (threaded). 2) 73mm wide x 46mm ID press fit.
> If you follow your own link, and read the specs, for the BB it says: "SRAM GXP, outboard bearing." Outboard bearings are by definition outside the BB shell in a cup. That would indicate a threaded bottom bracket. Flip over your bike. If aluminum cups are sticking outside the BB shell they will be obvious. Once you know for sure which BB shell you have, crank and BB recommendations will be easy.


Thanks for the quick response Chris! I do indeed have those aluminum cups on the outside of the BB shell (the 'outboard' bearings). And yes, it's an alloy frame bike.

There are SRAM GXP cranks on the bike right now.

So -- what bottom bracket does that mean my frame accepts? And what cranksets should I consider?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Thanks for the quick response Chris! I do indeed have those aluminum cups on the outside of the BB shell (the 'outboard' bearings). And yes, it's an alloy frame bike.
> 
> There are SRAM GXP cranks on the bike right now.
> 
> So -- what bottom bracket does that mean my frame accepts? And what cranksets should I consider?


Well, you have actually have all kinds of options. Threaded BBs, while not all the rage right now, are actually very reliable and versatile. Santa Cruz has continued to stick with them even on their latest carbon fiber offerings. A lot of tolerance and noise issues won't even come up when going with threads instead of press fit.

So, you can really run any SRAM GXP mountain crank set, any Shimano Hollowetech 2 mountain crankset, and there are even some BB30 crank sets that you can run.

I think that you already mentioned wanting to go with a 10 spd cassette, but did not mention how many rings you want up front. Once you know what your drive train preference is, you can start comparing the different offerings for their respective strong points and prices.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Well, you have actually have all kinds of options. Threaded BBs, while not all the rage right now, are actually very reliable and versatile. Santa Cruz has continued to stick with them even on their latest carbon fiber offerings. A lot of tolerance and noise issues won't even come up when going with threads instead of press fit.
> 
> So, you can really run any SRAM GXP mountain crank set, any Shimano Hollowetech 2 mountain crankset, and there are even some BB30 crank sets that you can run.
> 
> I think that you already mentioned wanting to go with a 10 spd cassette, but did not mention how many rings you want up front. Once you know what your drive train preference is, you can start comparing the different offerings for their respective strong points and prices.


I'd like a 3x10 setup or a 2x10 setup with a bashguard. In terms of price point... ~$200 would be ideal (bottom bracket included). I'm not too worried about weight -- I'd prefer durability over lighter weight components.

I'm confused -- just because I have the aluminum cups doesn't necessarily mean my bottom bracket is threaded, does it? Couldn't it be an outboard PF30, like this BB?

What sort of tools am I going to need to take off the outboard BB? Will I need a bearing press?

Thanks again for your help in this matter.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> I'm confused -- just because I have the aluminum cups doesn't necessarily mean my bottom bracket is threaded, does it? Couldn't it be an outboard PF30, like this BB?
> 
> What sort of tools am I going to need to take off the outboard BB? Will I need a bearing press?


It's unlikely you have an adapter BB. The cups shape differences are fairly obvious. I'd be glad to verify if you want to post a pic of the actual cups in the frame. For threaded cups, you need an outboard cup wrench. We make a fancy one with some design advantages, but a standard stamped steel one will suit your purposes.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> It's unlikely you have an adapter BB. The cups shape differences are fairly obvious. I'd be glad to verify if you want to post a pic of the actual cups in the frame. For threaded cups, you need an outboard cup wrench. We make a fancy one with some design advantages, but a standard stamped steel one will suit your purposes.


Sick! I have one of the stamped steel ones.

I'm going to remove my crankset and BB tonight and take photos.

I'm guessing I'm going to need a torque wrench when I put it all back together?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Sick! I have one of the stamped steel ones.
> 
> I'm going to remove my crankset and BB tonight and take photos.
> 
> I'm guessing I'm going to need a torque wrench when I put it all back together?


Well, a torque wrench is ideal, and we did make our tool compatible. However, your stamped wrench won't be compatible. Truth is, most do not use a torque wrench. In lieu of a torque wrench, use some blue Loctite on the threads and tighten firmly by hand using the wrench you have and you'll be fine.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Well, a torque wrench is ideal, and we did make our tool compatible. However, your stamped wrench won't be compatible. Truth is, most do not use a torque wrench. In lieu of a torque wrench, use some blue Loctite on the threads and tighten firmly by hand using the wrench you have and you'll be fine.


I spoke too soon Chris -- I actually don't have the bottom bracket removal tool. I got the crankset off and checked with the bike's original owner -- it's the stock 'custom' SRAM S-1250 with GXP spindle.

Does that mean I can use any GXP crankset (like this Truvativ X9 10-speed triple)? What specification does that make my bottom bracket?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> I spoke too soon Chris -- I actually don't have the bottom bracket removal tool. I got the crankset off and checked with the bike's original owner -- it's the stock 'custom' SRAM S-1250 with GXP spindle.
> 
> Does that mean I can use any GXP crankset (like this Truvativ X9 10-speed triple)? What specification does that make my bottom bracket?


If the spindle of the removed crank set is 24mm on the drive side, and the OD of the splined end of the spindle (non-drive side) is 22mm, then you do indeed have a GXP crank set. That also means you have a GXP bottom bracket. That would also mean that you can run that X9 crank set you linked to.


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

You have a threaded bottom bracket. You can use SRAM (GXP) or Shimano bottom brackets on that bike with no modifications and no fancy tools other than the ones pictured above. The only "secret" you need to know that isn't explained well anywhere, is that SRAM GXP BBs work with SRAM GXP cranksets and Shimano BBs work with Shimano cranksets. Either will go on your bike, you'll just need a new BB if you change brands. The only SRAM/Shimano cranksets you should NOT get are BB30 or PF30. Because they are retarded. And because their spindles are a different diameter. 
In summary, you're over thinking this. If you can get the cranks off, you can get a threaded BB off. 

And finally, all press fit BBs are stupid. You start with threaded BBs, a simple low maintenance reliable system that any home mechanic can deal with. Then some AHole "Standard Maker" in marketing decides we need something creaky that you need a shop to install for you and that makes Zero discernable difference, but maybe looks slick on a spec sheet.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

jm2e said:


> You have a threaded bottom bracket. You can use SRAM (GXP) or Shimano bottom brackets on that bike with no modifications and no fancy tools other than the ones pictured above. The only "secret" you need to know that isn't explained well anywhere, is that SRAM GXP BBs work with SRAM GXP cranksets and Shimano BBs work with Shimano cranksets. Either will go on your bike, you'll just need a new BB if you change brands. The only SRAM/Shimano cranksets you should NOT get are BB30 or PF30. Because they are retarded. And because their spindles are a different diameter.
> In summary, you're over thinking this. If you can get the cranks off, you can get a threaded BB off.
> 
> And finally, all press fit BBs are stupid. You start with threaded BBs, a simple low maintenance reliable system that any home mechanic can deal with. Then some AHole "Standard Maker" in marketing decides we need something creaky that you need a shop to install for you and that makes Zero discernable difference, but maybe looks slick on a spec sheet.


Well let's talk recommendations then. I'm either going 3x10 or 1x10 -- I'd like to keep the cost around $200 with cranks and BB. Is that a reasonable target?


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Should not be hard to come close to that. 
First questions:
1. Do you want some kind of bash guard?
2. Does the bike have ISCG tabs?


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

jm2e said:


> Should not be hard to come close to that.
> First questions:
> 1. Do you want some kind of bash guard?
> 2. Does the bike have ISCG tabs?


Bashguard and chain tensioner would be great, but totally optional in my effort to keep this upgrade <200. I'm replacing the cassette and chain as well -- it's adding up fast.

As for ISCG tabs, how can I check?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

just keep your existing GXP BB crankset and get a new aftermarket bottom bracket. this will give you a nice bang for the buck. I own a Real World Cycling Ceramic Bottom bracket now for like 5 years. Just got a new crankset last year and kept the old RWC over the new stock as it was still smoother than the new cheap one is. the Bit of weight a newer/better crankset will be less noticeable than the bearings will be. and you can spend a little extra and get a better set that way. Even if a few rings are worn on your cranks you can replace those and still stay well in your budget over getting a whole new crankset. And honestly, the cheaper heavier cranksets are in most cases actually more durable than the pricer/lighter/higher end ones.

about the only issue is if it's a Single Speed only cranks.. which most of those SRAM makes are just 2x cranks with a bash bolted on instead of the outer ring.. replace with a ring and you have your 2x..


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

thomllama said:


> just keep your existing GXP BB crankset and get a new aftermarket bottom bracket. this will give you a nice bang for the buck. I own a Real World Cycling Ceramic Bottom bracket now for like 5 years. Just got a new crankset last year and kept the old RWC over the new stock as it was still smoother than the new cheap one is. the Bit of weight a newer/better crankset will be less noticeable than the bearings will be. and you can spend a little extra and get a better set that way. Even if a few rings are worn on your cranks you can replace those and still stay well in your budget over getting a whole new crankset. And honestly, the cheaper heavier cranksets are in most cases actually more durable than the pricer/lighter/higher end ones.
> 
> about the only issue is if it's a Single Speed only cranks.. which most of those SRAM makes are just 2x cranks with a bash bolted on instead of the outer ring.. replace with a ring and you have your 2x..


This crankset is nearing 5 years of constant riding. It's time to replace.

Recommendations for GXP crankset? 1x10 or 3x10?

(To recap: 2011 26" Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp)


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## joselit (Feb 5, 2004)

@Chris2fur and anyone else:

I need advice on this setup. I have a Lightning cranks based quarq powermeter. I want to run it on my bike that has a PF30 68mm BB case. I was thinking on going with the e13 PF30 adapter as the Lightning crank if 30mm dia axle with a coupling in the middle but much longer than the original sram BB30 crank that came originally with the bike.

Any feedback would be great.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

mrscarface said:


> This crankset is nearing 5 years of constant riding. It's time to replace.


And? Are they cracked? Broken? Loose somewhere? My "new"cranks are 5+ year old stylos, only reason I replaced was to get longer arms. Cranks are about the least needed to replace item on a bike. Rings on the cranks ya, but as long as they are working I'd spend $ on something more important to the bettering of the ride of the bike. Old cranks with a nice ceramic bearing BB will feel better than new cranks with a cheap stock BB. If you're just looking for bling, well that's ok. But really in your budget the only thing is X7 or maybe last yrs X9's on sale.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

thomllama said:


> And? Are they cracked? Broken? Loose somewhere? My "new"cranks are 5+ year old stylos, only reason I replaced was to get longer arms. Cranks are about the least needed to replace item on a bike. Rings on the cranks ya, but as long as they are working I'd spend $ on something more important to the bettering of the ride of the bike. Old cranks with a nice ceramic bearing BB will feel better than new cranks with a cheap stock BB. If you're just looking for bling, well that's ok. But really in your budget the only thing is X7 or maybe last yrs X9's on sale.


What about these replacement chainrings: Universal Cycles -- Race Face Turbine 10 Speed Chainrings

Will they work with the custom SRAM S-1250?

What bottom bracket would you recommend?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

mrscarface said:


> What about these replacement chainrings: Universal Cycles -- Race Face Turbine 10 Speed Chainrings
> 
> Will they work with the custom SRAM S-1250?
> 
> What bottom bracket would you recommend?


as to the rings, I believe they would but you need to check as I understand some of the newer cranksets have gone way from the standard 64/104 bolt and gotten higher 120 bolt centers for the larger rings.. haven't played wit hang yet so I have no idea what those are on yours. _(personally, look at something like Blackspire rings over the Race Face.. just a beefier/longer lasting nicer ring set and can be found cheaper if you do a bit of searching)_ don't worry about 10 speed either, 9 speed rings work fine with 10 speed drive train.

as to the BB.. the best bang for the buck is by far the Real World Cycling BB's as they are not only *MADE* for GXP without stupid adaptors, BOTTOM BRACKETS FOR GXP CRANKSETS personally, I'd get the first of the ceramic bearing sets... I used to burn through BB's every 6 months or so.. had some "blow" money so I figured I'd give the ceramic's a try.. _(I always thought ceramics were a $$$ making gimmick)_ well I still am running them many year later as I stated earlier. I'm so convinced I actually re-bearing-ed my rear hub and it's noticeably improved _(to be fair, 2 bearings were totally blown before I switched them out  )_ Angular contact isn't an issue with SRAM's GXP as there isn't the inward pressures from mounting like Shimano and other cranksets have so I wouldn't bother getting that high priced unit.

you need to do a little research before going all purchase crazy.. make sure of the bolt pattern/size of the rings. Make sure you have the right BB cup so when you remove and install new you don't scar up the cups _(I made that mistake with a cheapo BB tool and now my cups are all missed up.. though they still work fine, just not pretty :/)_

know how the BB works.. this will help.... Trail Tire TV: Sram's GXP Bottom Bracket, how it differs from others

I think that's a 2 ring crankset? which might mean it's either a 64/104 or a 64/120 bolt.. make sure before buying.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

is this your crankset? (the 1250 was made for specialized and isn't a "sold" crankset..)if so the large ring has printed on it what the BCD (Bolt Center Dia).. this will tell you want rings will fit it.


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Yup, you could upgrade your Bottom Bracket. But most people don't and most people think a $30 BB from SRAM or Shimano works great. 

As far as crank upgrades go:
SRAM x9 is an okay option. They are priced pretty high right now and hard to find good deals on use ones. As far as I can tell, the price bubble is due to the popularity of going spiderless. Spiderless is awesome and allows you to get below 32t on your chainring. But, you can't run a bash ring with spiderless, so you'd need a $100 chainguide/taco from MRP or E13 unless you keep the spider on. 
Shimano XT & SLX also a good option as well, and they can be found amazingly cheap. honestly, I don't see a difference between the two and they both look really sleek. 
The only downside to shimano is that you can't run a 28T ring if you go 1x. 
Whether you do SRAM or shimano, get a 3x crankset. This way you can replace the large chainring with a bash guard. 2x cranksets are retarded because you usually can't run a bash.


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## TexasXC (Jun 14, 2014)

Is there anything that can replace a FSA BB9200 (for k-force light cranks)? They're really expensive so I wouldn't want to have to pay $200 when mine goes out.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

thomllama said:


> View attachment 921723
> 
> 
> is this your crankset? (the 1250 was made for specialized and isn't a "sold" crankset..)if so the large ring has printed on it what the BCD (Bolt Center Dia).. this will tell you want rings will fit it.


Yup! The specs: 22A/33A/44A, 4-bolt, 104/64mm
Should I go with the raceface 2+bash guard? * How would I adjust my front derailleur *(SRAM X.7, 10-speed, S1 direct mount for DMD, bottom pull)* to account for the bashguard? *

I got one of those cheapo bottom bracket tools ("Spin Doctors") and that thing chewed my bottom bracket cups (and yes, I was cranking counter-clockwise on the non-drive side). Tried to use a large wrench and only chewed further into the aluminum. I've sprayed WD-40 down the seat tube and between the aluminum cups in an effort to unseize it, but it's pretty firmly stuck.

I'm starting to think I should just take this to a shop * Any tips to remove a stuck bottom bracket? *

Still looking for recommendations for GXP bottom brackets... The RWC BBs look legit! But $120 with shipping is pushing it.


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

mrscarface said:


> Yup! The specs: 22A/33A/44A, 4-bolt, 104/64mm
> Should I go with the raceface 2+bash guard? * How would I adjust my front derailleur *(SRAM X.7, 10-speed, S1 direct mount for DMD, bottom pull)* to account for the bashguard? *
> 
> I got one of those cheapo bottom bracket tools ("Spin Doctors") and that thing chewed my bottom bracket cups (and yes, I was cranking counter-clockwise on the non-drive side). Tried to use a large wrench and only chewed further into the aluminum. I've sprayed WD-40 down the seat tube and between the aluminum cups in an effort to unseize it, but it's pretty firmly stuck.
> ...


gears/2x or 3x is all up to you. if you go 2x with a bash just take the limit screw and turn it till it wont allow the cage to go up to the large ring is all. (have heard with some newer derailleurs that they had to go to the hardware store and get a longer screw) rings, get what you want.. again I find the RaceFace ones wore out too easy and went with Blackspire which was actually cheaper (got on sale somewhere) and still running them.

yup, $120 is pricy, but that's the point. you're getting a MUCH better setup for less $$$ than getting new cranks were gunna cost closer to $200 before you start., they do have a regular steel bearing BB for like $50 and change. You're not going to touch decent ceramic's for less than $100.

as to the stuck cups.. get a tool that is like a socket... and use a LONG wrench. 









when you go to install the new one... make sure you super clean out the threads in the frame.. and use PLUMBERS TAPE (teflon tape) over locktite _(leaves crud behind and makes it hard to take apart later)_ or grease _(washes out over time)_. it will hold better as it fills threading voids, but also allows it to come apart easy later as it isolates the 2 parts from each other so they don't fuse together. But still allows for proper torque to be applied.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

thomllama said:


> gears/2x or 3x is all up to you. if you go 2x with a bash just take the limit screw and turn it till it wont allow the cage to go up to the large ring is all. (have heard with some newer derailleurs that they had to go to the hardware store and get a longer screw) rings, get what you want.. again I find the RaceFace ones wore out too easy and went with Blackspire which was actually cheaper (got on sale somewhere) and still running them.
> 
> yup, $120 is pricy, but that's the point. you're getting a MUCH better setup for less $$$ than getting new cranks were gunna cost closer to $200 before you start., they do have a regular steel bearing BB for like $50 and change. You're not going to touch decent ceramic's for less than $100.
> 
> ...


Blasted the bottom bracket with PB Blaster... will give another shot when the Park Tools BB socket adapter comes in.

Let me take a second to say **** Performance Bikes and Spin Doctors, which will henceforth be known as **** Doctors. Or Strip Doctors? I paid $16 for their bottom bracket removal tool... and promptly stripped the hell out of my BB cups. Googling around, it seems I am not alone in this. It's a ****, **** tool.

...also popped off the washers and looked at the BB bearings themselves. The grease looks fine, it's not crusty or anything. Is it worth flushing and regreasing and trying to salvage the BB? How should the bearings feel when you press against the inside of the bottom bracket, and spin the bearings? There's a decent rumble. I can't tell if it's normal or not.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Can anyone comment on the Park Tools BBT-19 vs BBT-19.2?









It seems there are two versions of the Park Tools bottom bracket removal tool listen on amazon.

Anyone know what the difference between the 19 and 19.2 is? I'm hoping I didn't just order some sort of knock-off...


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

mrscarface said:


> Can anyone comment on the Park Tools BBT-19 vs BBT-19.2?
> 
> View attachment 922213
> 
> ...


Alright, the BBT-19 did the trick. Finally got both cups off.

Can anyone comment on regreasing bearings? What sort of solvent should I use to get rid of the old grease?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

mrscarface said:


> Alright, the BBT-19 did the trick. Finally got both cups off.
> 
> Can anyone comment on regreasing bearings? What sort of solvent should I use to get rid of the old grease?


well, I've found a good orange degreaser mix with rubbing alcohol is about the best for regular (non ceramic) bearings if not taking the bearing out of the cup so you can only get to one side..? clean as best you can with that mixture then use.. (god I hate to say it) WD-40 with the straw and blast out what is behind the cage and balls.. rinse with Rubbing alcohol, then repack.. over pack with water proof grease.

If you do the D-40 method, check the bearing while it's still in the bearing. if it grinds .. they are toast (PS most bearing that are still OK will be rough/grind when dry as the ball drag on the cage)


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

thomllama said:


> well, I've found a good orange degreaser mix with rubbing alcohol is about the best for regular (non ceramic) bearings if not taking the bearing out of the cup so you can only get to one side..? clean as best you can with that mixture then use.. (god I hate to say it) WD-40 with the straw and blast out what is behind the cage and balls.. rinse with Rubbing alcohol, then repack.. over pack with water proof grease.
> 
> If you do the D-40 method, check the bearing while it's still in the bearing. if it grinds .. they are toast (PS most bearing that are still OK will be rough/grind when dry as the ball drag on the cage)


Yeah, I can only get to one side.

What do you think about using this grease?
Amazon.com : Park Tool PPL-1 Polylube 1000 Grease Tube (4 oz) : Bike Greases : Sports & Outdoors



> If you do the D-40 method, *check the bearing while it's still in the bearing.* if it grinds .. they are toast (PS most bearing that are still OK will be rough/grind when dry as the ball drag on the cage)


little confused by that. can you explain?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Another option for grease removal is CRC brake cleaner. Get the red can with a self-evaporating formula. Use in a well ventilated area and wear eye protection. No, it's not the most environmentally friendly, but it will get read of the grease and leave no residue.

Two schools of thought on the grease. 1) If water is a concern, a heavy marine grease is good. 2) If speed is the main concern and riding conditions are always dry, a lighter grease is the best option. Everyone has an opinion on grease. Decide your priorities and do some research. We offer several greases and you can read about them if you are interested (Cycling Lubes from Real World Cycling).


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Another option for grease removal is CRC brake cleaner. Get the red can with a self-evaporating formula. Use in a well ventilated area and wear eye protection. No, it's not the most environmentally friendly, but it will get read of the grease and leave no residue.
> 
> Two schools of thought on the grease. 1) If water is a concern, a heavy marine grease is good. 2) If speed is the main concern and riding conditions are always dry, a lighter grease is the best option. Everyone has an opinion on grease. Decide your priorities and do some research. We offer several greases and you can read about them if you are interested (Cycling Lubes from Real World Cycling).


Well, I bit the bullet and just ordered a RWC GXP bottom bracket (in gold :thumbsup. Thanks for all your help Chris.

Anything I should keep in mind when reassembling the bottom bracket? I've got access to a torque wrench -- what's the RWC BB rated to?

What sort of care should I give to cleaning the crankset spindle? Do I need to grease the spindle? Should I clean with IPA? Etc.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Well, I bit the bullet and just ordered a RWC GXP bottom bracket (in gold :thumbsup. Thanks for all your help Chris.
> 
> Anything I should keep in mind when reassembling the bottom bracket? I've got access to a torque wrench -- what's the RWC BB rated to?
> 
> What sort of care should I give to cleaning the crankset spindle? Do I need to grease the spindle? Should I clean with IPA? Etc.


Thanks! You will receive a set of instructions that will clearly explain the installation procedure and provide the proper torque values. If any part of the install is unclear, please contact me directly ([email protected]).


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Thanks! You will receive a set of instructions that will clearly explain the installation procedure and provide the proper torque values. If any part of the install is unclear, please contact me directly ([email protected]).


Hey Chris,

Successfully installed the bottom bracket.

One thing I'm confused about is how the crankset should fit against the outboard bearings.

On the drive-side bearing, the crankset (SRAM S-1250), the wave washer sits between the crank and the bearing.

On the non-drive side, there is nothing between the crank arm and the bearing. On the old bottom bracket, there were plastic spacers/shields that covered the bearings. These didn't fit on the new setup. Fully tightened, the crankset just barely touches the outboard bearing. Is this how it's supposed to be set up? Am I missing a spacer/washer/shield thing? I can take pictures tonight if this is confusing.

I also got my new cassette and new chain rings on and I'm running into some problems in my granny gear.

I got these chainrings and this cassette. 

Chainrings: 24-36 (10 speed)
Cassette: 11/36 (10 speed)

In the granny gear, when I shift into the smaller cassette gears, the derailleur (SRAM x9) folds up towards the bike and the chain stacks against itself as it comes through the bottom derailleur pulley. It looks bad, and feels bad. Again, pictures if needed. I didn't remove any links from my chain before I installed it -- could this be a chain tension issue, or are the gear combinations I've selected incompatible?

My old crankset was 22/33 -- any ideas on what I should do to my front derailleur to adjust it to fit the new 24-36 rings?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Hey Chris,
> 
> Successfully installed the bottom bracket.
> 
> ...


The non-drive side bearing comes with an orange silicone seal that has a raised aluminum center. The non-drive crank arm contacts that raised aluminum center directly. No spacers of any kind go between the crank arm and the seal.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> I also got my new cassette and new chain rings on and I'm running into some problems in my granny gear.
> 
> I got these chainrings and this cassette.
> 
> ...


Well, whenever you change a drive ring of any kind, you should always get a new chain. In this case where you have changed the front rings and the cassette, you must start with a new chain. You need a chain designed for your setup (get a SRAM mountain 10 speed chain) and you will also need to custom size it. For that procedure, I recommend you go to the Park Tool website and follow the procedure. It's laid out pretty well.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> ...any ideas on what I should do to my front derailleur to adjust it to fit the new 24-36 rings?


You will likely need to make a couple of different adjustments. First, you will need to adjust the mounting height. You have to do this based on the larger of the two rings. You want the bottom of the derailleur cage to clear the teeth on the ring by about 4mm. Make sure the cage is parallel to the chain ring, then cinch down the derailleur. You will then need to do a lot of trail and error shifting adjustments with the derailleur travel set screws so you move the chain far enough on both upshifts and downshifts without going too far and throwing the chain off the outside or dropping it on the inside. You are definitely going to learn some new things through this process. When you finally do have it set up, you may need to make some slight cable adjustments via barrel adjusters to account for cable stretch, etc..


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> The non-drive side bearing comes with an orange silicone seal that has a raised aluminum center. The non-drive crank arm contacts that raised aluminum center directly. No spacers of any kind go between the crank arm and the seal.


Cool, that's what I thought! My issue now is that the non-drive side crank arm just _barely_ touches the raised aluminum center. Should I tighten the crank, or does it matter whether or not contact is made?

As for the chain issues, I did purchase a new chain: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AYOP9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which was listed as the stock chain for my bike.

Using this calculator Javascript Bicycle Chain Length Calculator
it tells me I need a chain length of... 55 links. 

Transmission Type: Derailleur 
Chainstay Type: Fixed
Chainstay Length: 16.54" (http://service.specialized.com/coll...2012-Stumpjumper-FSR--26---29--FSR-Manual.pdf)
Biggest Front Gear Cog: 36
Biggest Rear Gear Cog: 36

Do I really need to chop this chain in half!?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> Cool, that's what I thought! My issue now is that the non-drive side crank arm just _barely_ touches the raised aluminum center. Should I tighten the crank, or does it matter whether or not contact is made?


Yes it matters a lot. It should be up tightly against it. It's not really a matter of tightening the crank--the fixing bolt is not like on a Shimano crank where you adjust it in and then use separate pinch bolt to lock down the crank arm. On the GXP, you fully torque the crank arm bolt and it should sandwich the seal and bearing between the crank arm and the step in the spindle. I'm not sure what would keep it from being tight against the seal.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> Yes it matters a lot. It should be up tightly against it. It's not really a matter of tightening the crank--the fixing bolt is not like on a Shimano crank where you adjust it in and then use separate pinch bolt to lock down the crank arm. On the GXP, you fully torque the crank arm bolt and it should sandwich the seal and bearing between the crank arm and the step in the spindle. I'm not sure what would keep it from being tight against the seal.


I don't have a torque wrench so I didn't know how tight to crank it. I'll retry again tonight. As for "between the crank arm and the step in the spindle", are you talking about the compression washer with the star-shaped cutout for the spindle?

https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/d...bottom-bracket-h-question-photo-2-inboard.jpg


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mrscarface said:


> I don't have a torque wrench so I didn't know how tight to crank it. I'll retry again tonight. As for "between the crank arm and the step in the spindle", are you talking about the compression washer with the star-shaped cutout for the spindle?
> 
> https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/d...bottom-bracket-h-question-photo-2-inboard.jpg


No. We supplied everything you need. Please don't reuse any of the old parts of your BB. The back of the bearing sits against a step in the crank spindle. It's very hard to describe in words and even hard to see without a cutout image.


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Don't worry, I won't blame you if I **** this up  

But to be clear, I didn't use that compression washer. 

Any further explanation of what this step is? If I tighten the crankset until it's tight enough to press against the aluminum center of the bearing shield, I should be good, right?


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## mrscarface (Nov 12, 2013)

Chris2fur said:


> No. We supplied everything you need. Please don't reuse any of the old parts of your BB. The back of the bearing sits against a step in the crank spindle. It's very hard to describe in words and even hard to see without a cutout image.


I will say the crankset is already extremely tight but there is still a sizable gap between the non-drive crankset and outboard bearing shield. Are you sure there's not a spacer I'm missing somewhere, not necessarily part of the BB?

Can you explain why it's important to have the crankset tight against the bearings (that might sound like a super stupid question, but I'm just trying to understand)?


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## ECR (Sep 25, 2013)

oops!


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

mrscarface said:


> I will say the crankset is already extremely tight but there is still a sizable gap between the non-drive crankset and outboard bearing shield. Are you sure there's not a spacer I'm missing somewhere, not necessarily part of the BB?
> 
> Can you explain why it's important to have the crankset tight against the bearings (that might sound like a super stupid question, but I'm just trying to understand)?


read about how GXP cranks work....... even if it's a Shimano the simple image will help explain how it's all held in place.

Trail Tire TV: Sram's GXP Bottom Bracket, how it differs from others


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## D-Rock & Roll (Mar 5, 2015)

Nice explanation. 
So if I buy BB30 cranks for my PF30 frame I should probably skip buying BB30 bearings and just run the PF30 bearings with my new BB30 crankset...yes?


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## frana (Jan 5, 2008)

Not sure if somebody asked this already. I have a trek ex7 2012. BB is BB91 i think. I have a race face deus xc now, want to upgrade to a xtr, sram xx, or race face next or sixc. What are the compatible BB's I'll need for each of those. 
What a great blog this is!!


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

frana said:


> Not sure if somebody asked this already. I have a trek ex7 2012. BB is BB91 i think. I have a race face deus xc now, want to upgrade to a xtr, sram xx, or race face next or sixc. What are the compatible BB's I'll need for each of those.
> What a great blog this is!!


If your Trek frame is aluminum, it's BB92 pressfit. Some of the Shimano BBs use the number BB91 which is just another stupid move to confuse people. So, assuming the frame is aluminum, here are the BBs required for the cranks you listed:

For XTR, you can use the same BB you are using for your Race Face crank. If you want a new one, you need a BB92 bottom bracket. Here's one example: PRESS-IN MTB BOTTOM BRACKET FROM REAL WORLD CYCLING You would need to select the Shimano option.

For SRAM XX (verify it's "GXP"), you would need the same thing, but GXP specific. The non-drive bearing has a 22mm ID and an inner race extension. So, the same page: PRESS-IN MTB BOTTOM BRACKET FROM REAL WORLD CYCLING, but select the SRAM GXP option.

I'm assuming the RF Next or SIXC will be the BB30 cranks. That requires a special conversion bottom bracket available in two options:
1) BB92 TO BB30 BOTTOM BRACKET KIT (440C Stainless races and ball bearings)
2) BB92 TO BB30 BOTTOM BRACKET KIT (440 C Stainless races with ceramic ball bearings.


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## skyfire1202 (Jan 21, 2008)

Hi Chris2fur!

Will either 1 and 2 above work on a Clavicula MTB crankset on a Scott Scale PF92 frame?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

skyfire1202 said:


> Hi Chris2fur!
> 
> Will either 1 and 2 above work on a Clavicula MTB crankset on a Scott Scale PF92 frame?


Yes. For ideal bearing placement, THM recommends using special 2mm cup/bearing spacers behind the flange of each special bearing. We could supply those spacers or you could probably just install the bearings without spacers behind them and use spindle spacers as needed on each side.


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## skyfire1202 (Jan 21, 2008)

Thank you for your quick reply, Chris. I guess the spindle spacers option would allow more dirt to contaminate the bearings faster?
I've been happy with your ceramic bearings for my wheelsets and your bearing press tools too. Will send you a PM for more questions.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

skyfire1202 said:


> Thank you for your quick reply, Chris. I guess the spindle spacers option would allow more dirt to contaminate the bearings faster?


Not necessarily. The first "spindle spacer" on each side would be one of the auxiliary seals included in our kit. I'm not sure if using the large 2mm spacers on the bearings would allow enough room for the auxiliary seals. Haven't had one to play with to get those finer fit details down.


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## skyfire1202 (Jan 21, 2008)

The inner race of the Clavicula bearings on THM website looks like it is a bit narrower: Accessories - THM-Carbones - Fahrradkomponenten aus Carbon


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

skyfire1202 said:


> The inner race of the Clavicula bearings on THM website looks like it is a bit narrower: Accessories - THM-Carbones - Fahrradkomponenten aus Carbon


Yes, it does, although I'm not sure that makes any practical difference. I know our bearings are double row and assume theirs are, too. They would not be strong enough otherwise.


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## Chinoo (Jan 18, 2010)

Hello,

I dont know anything about crankset and bearing, my question is, i have a Cannondale Flash29er and planning on buying a trek superfly, I will like to buy shimano XTR M9000 crankset, will this crankset work on both bikes? i know i might need some adapters, but with the adapters, will it work on both bikes?

thank you


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Chinoo said:


> Hello,
> 
> I dont know anything about crankset and bearing, my question is, i have a Cannondale Flash29er and planning on buying a trek superfly, I will like to buy shimano XTR M9000 crankset, will this crankset work on both bikes? i know i might need some adapters, but with the adapters, will it work on both bikes?
> 
> thank you


For the Trek, it will be an easy fit as they are designed for 24mm spindles. The Flash is "BB30," meaning the shell ID is 42mm. However, instead of using circlips inside the shell to hold the bearings in place, Cannondale opted to have raised bearing stops inside the shell that cannot be removed. Those raised stops will NOT allow you to run the most ideal solution (something like this: KCNC/RWC OSBB to HT2 Bottom Bracket w/Enduro Bearings) and will limit the adapters you can use to something like this: Enduro BB30 to Hollowtech 2 BB Adapter, that you press into the existing bearings.


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## molsen234 (Aug 2, 2013)

Chinoo said:


> Hello,
> 
> I dont know anything about crankset and bearing, my question is, i have a Cannondale Flash29er and planning on buying a trek superfly, I will like to buy shimano XTR M9000 crankset, will this crankset work on both bikes? i know i might need some adapters, but with the adapters, will it work on both bikes?
> 
> thank you


I plan on using one of these on my flash 29er: BB30 to BB24 CONVERTOR | Rotor Bike Components since I plan on using a Shimano crankset. I cannot guarantee you it will work as I have yet to order it (finances do not permit it this month), but based on what I have read it will be fine.

Th Enduro Chris refers to also looks nice, I had not seen that before. The pressed cups I looked at previously were reported to creak, but the Enduros look to be better.

Michael


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## askjasonbowen (Apr 27, 2014)

Hello All,
I have a 2014 Raleigh Talus
It has the following crank and BB
Cranks	Shimano FC-M311 Octalink 42/32/22t
Bottom Bracket	Shimano Octalink ES25 68x126mm

I am thinking of upgraing to a Bike Crankset 9 spd 170mm 44/32/22 Tooth w/ BB Cups Black I saw on Ebay for US $90.

My questions is:

1. Will this new BB work with my bike? 
2. Is there an alternative suggestion that can be made with a $100 budget in mind?

I was told that the Hollowtech wasn's going to be compatible and that I shoudl try a Truvativ Firex and GXP BB, which was over my budget.


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## hainman (May 12, 2015)

Hi just found this thread and hoping I can get the correct info I need
I ride a Giant reign 2 2013 and need to replace the BB
My issue is when I look online it either says GXP BB,threaded or press fit so I need to know what preference of BB I need before I order and end up with the wrong one
.im in the UK if that makes a difference.
Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## StumpjumperUK (Dec 6, 2004)

hainman said:


> Hi just found this thread and hoping I can get the correct info I need
> I ride a Giant reign 2 2013 and need to replace the BB
> My issue is when I look online it either says GXP BB,threaded or press fit so I need to know what preference of BB I need before I order and end up with the wrong one
> .im in the UK if that makes a difference.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated


Maybe not the best expert as both my BB30 bikes have press-fit... but if you search online for replacements I think you'll see that threaded BB has an obvious "nut" on the outside since you need to unscrew it, whereas press fit has no obvious way to get the bearing out - you will need a special tool (or very skillful and risky work with drift and hammer)


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## hainman (May 12, 2015)

StumpjumperUK said:


> Maybe not the best expert as both my BB30 bikes have press-fit... but if you search online for replacements I think you'll see that threaded BB has an obvious "nut" on the outside since you need to unscrew it, whereas press fit has no obvious way to get the bearing out - you will need a special tool (or very skillful and risky work with drift and hammer)


It looks similar to the Hollowtech with the groved bits outside the frame so I just need to figure out what size I need


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

hainman said:


> Hi just found this thread and hoping I can get the correct info I need
> I ride a Giant reign 2 2013 and need to replace the BB
> My issue is when I look online it either says GXP BB,threaded or press fit so I need to know what preference of BB I need before I order and end up with the wrong one
> .im in the UK if that makes a difference.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated


I went to Giant's UK site and found this page:

2013 Giant Reign 2 (2013) | Giant bicycles / Giant bikes UK | United Kingdom

The bottom-bracket is listed as a SRAM GXP. That takes to this page:

https://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bottom-bracket

Does that look like what you have? (Other color options are possible. Yours may not be red).

There is also a press-fit version of the GXP, so look carefully at what you have. The screw in version will have the cups on the outside with the grooves for the removal tool to latch on to.

Here's a link to a replacement that screws in:

SRAM Alloy GXP Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles

And here is a link to a replacement that press-fits:

SRAM PressFit GXP Alloy Bottom Bracket | Chain Reaction Cycles

It may be obvious from the photos which you have on your particular bike.

Keep in mind there is always the risk that I may have overlooked something, as I do not have your specific bicycle in front of me to look at.


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## hainman (May 12, 2015)

JonathanGennick said:


> I went to Giant's UK site and found this page:
> 
> 2013 Giant Reign 2 (2013) | Giant bicycles / Giant bikes UK | United Kingdom
> 
> ...


Thanks mate it's the one you posted albeit silver screw in 
What I'm struggling with is if I need 70mm or 67/73mm and if it's English thread


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

hainman said:


> Thanks mate it's the one you posted albeit silver screw in
> What I'm struggling with is if I need 70mm or 67/73mm and if it's English thread


The screw-in one will be English thread and your shell will be either 68mm or 73mm. Spacers should come with the bottom-bracket to make up the 5mm difference if needed.

You might be better off in paying a shop to do the work. If you are risk-averse and don't want to risk buying a wrong part, then pay a shop.

Keep in mind you'll need some tools. There is at least the bottom-bracket tool that engages the grooves on the cups. Then I don't recall whether getting your cranks off requires a puller.


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## hainman (May 12, 2015)

Thanks Jonathan
That's just the info I was after 
20 quid for it so happy days,ye my mate has all the Tools and Know-how so a few beers will cover it 
Thanks again for your help


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

hainman said:


> 20 quid for it so happy days,ye my mate has all the Tools and Know-how so a few beers will cover it


Awesome! Friends with tools. Life is good.


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## pavell (Jul 30, 2015)

Does anyone know what type of bottom bracket does the Trek Fuel EX 7 27.5 have. My SRAM/Truvativ one started creaking and I'm looking for a replacement. The current cranks are SRAM S1010.
Pressfit Bottom Bracket | On - One
Would these fit ? Thanks


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Anybody successfully using Hope's new 30mm 68/73 bottom bracket with RaceFace Cinch Turbine cranks?
That's what I want to go with, but sure looks tricky... Need a specific tool for the Hope BB and will need to figure out the spacers to make it all compatible.
Any experience?


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

pavell said:


> Does anyone know what type of bottom bracket does the Trek Fuel EX 7 27.5 have. My SRAM/Truvativ one started creaking and I'm looking for a replacement. The current cranks are SRAM S1010.
> Pressfit Bottom Bracket | On - One
> Would these fit ? Thanks


BB92 GXP

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Is there anything special about the 24mm spindle spacers for a hollowtech 2 bottom bracket. A special seal on one side, or unique concave shape? I have a 68mm shell, and don't like how many spacers are between the bearings and the frame. I'd rather put the bearings closer to the frame and use a spacer on the spindle. Any horror stories from doing this?


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

watts888 said:


> Is there anything special about the 24mm spindle spacers for a hollowtech 2 bottom bracket. A special seal on one side, or unique concave shape? I have a 68mm shell, and don't like how many spacers are between the bearings and the frame. I'd rather put the bearings closer to the frame and use a spacer on the spindle. Any horror stories from doing this?


um, that's kinda backwards. the bearing races would be pressed in the wrong places and end up adding friction instead of decreasing it. Also, the spacers between the cups and frame actually add to stiffen the whole assembly by widening the stance. farther apart the bearings actually are, the less unwanted movement is going to happen. Putting the bearings tight to the frame then padding the crank arms out is a much weaker connection.


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