# 1989-90 Mongoose IBOC Comp = Real MTB?



## yaga (Sep 21, 2011)

Is my Mongoose considered a real MTB? I currently ride it at the local mountain trails in SoCal Santa Clarita area with varying terrains. Not extreme though - Tapia and Towsley Canyon.

From what I know from scouring the Internet and looking at my bike - the specs:
1989-90 Mongoose IBOC Comp
Tange Double Butted Chromoly 4130 Rigid Frame
Chromo 4130 Straight Forks
Shimano Equipped: EXAGE 500LX M500 Group; SG? crankset, STI shifters
ARAYA RX-7 Rims

Only thing replaced - tires and saddle.

Real noob here and just started riding trails after 20 years of inactivity - so behind the times. I plan on riding this until disposable money becomes available for an upgrade - so will it last til then?
Thanks for any info or answers.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

yes most definitely a real mountain bike. The IBOC was short for International Bike of Champions based on the usage by the then teammates of John Tomac and someone else whose name has slipped my grasp. They were the true mountain bikes of the Mongoose line and while the comp had lower end components EXAGE and the like everything else should be more than competent for mountain biking a long time.

You might want to consider getting some new brake pads as the originals are probably pretty dried out and you would probably get better performance out of new ones, alternately you could just sand the braking surface of them which will probably get you better performance. 

I would ride it until you get some thing new whenever that is then I would get a tensioner for the rear and make it a singlespeed for some a different riding experience. That frame should literally last forever, as long as it hasn't sat in a lake or the ocean since being put away.


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## yaga (Sep 21, 2011)

Thanks for the response.
Nice to know that the Mongoose IBOC is legit when I ride and encounter riders with modern setups. It makes it easier to roll when you hear wise cracks about a 22 year old bike on the trail. 

Yeah about the brake pads - they will be replaced soon.



rockcrusher said:


> yes most definitely a real mountain bike. The IBOC was short for International Bike of Champions based on the usage by the then teammates of John Tomac and someone else whose name has slipped my grasp. They were the true mountain bikes of the Mongoose line and while the comp had lower end components EXAGE and the like everything else should be more than competent for mountain biking a long time.
> 
> You might want to consider getting some new brake pads as the originals are probably pretty dried out and you would probably get better performance out of new ones, alternately you could just sand the braking surface of them which will probably get you better performance.
> 
> I would ride it until you get some thing new whenever that is then I would get a tensioner for the rear and make it a singlespeed for some a different riding experience. That frame should literally last forever, as long as it hasn't sat in a lake or the ocean since being put away.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

You are riding full rigid. Anyone making jokes does not understand that learning to ride on a full rigid bike makes you a better rider. You have to learn to pick the right lines and it toughens you up. Not to mention that you will be faster on less technical areas and climbing most of the time. And while those guys are spending money on bleeding hydro brakes and fork overhauls you will be out riding.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Your way ahead of the game IMO. Cool factor, rock solid, Wishbone stay with brakes up there also. Fork-nice. Keep the period correct pump. Remove all the brittle plastic stuff, & goofy brackets, get V-brakes, maybe a stem that fits you perfect, try to go clipless. Then rock that old mule with envy.

I understand I may get lip for the V-brakes.


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## yaga (Sep 21, 2011)

sandmangts said:


> You are riding full rigid. Anyone making jokes does not understand that learning to ride on a full rigid bike makes you a better rider. You have to learn to pick the right lines and it toughens you up. Not to mention that you will be faster on less technical areas and climbing most of the time. And while those guys are spending money on bleeding hydro brakes and fork overhauls you will be out riding.





jimbowho said:


> Your way ahead of the game IMO. Cool factor, rock solid, Wishbone stay with brakes up there also. Fork-nice. Keep the period correct pump. Remove all the brittle plastic stuff, & goofy brackets, get V-brakes, maybe a stem that fits you perfect, try to go clipless. Then rock that old mule with envy.
> 
> I understand I may get lip for the V-brakes.


Thanks sandmangts and jimbowho. This site has kept me reading past my usual sleep schedule. Learning correct riding techniques and the "anatomy and physiology" of the mountain bike. Those videos in the beginner section has me rewinding and pausing - studying the proper riding positions. LOL. The riding aspect (the different terrains) of it has hooked me definitely and the comments from this thread has got me to just enjoy the ride.


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## mattytruth (Aug 2, 2006)

That's a very cool bike! Don't worry about what anyone has to say, you're going to develop skills far beyond what you would learn on a new FS bike. One thing, If you begin to experience numbness in your wrists or hands you may want to level or even tilt that seat back a bit. Proper fit is very important. Enjoy your bike!


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## Duc-Duc-Guzzi (Apr 1, 2011)

he I worked at one of the largest Mongoose only dealers in New England in the early 90's
NO OTHER BIKE had the components that the Mongoose line had at the same pricepoint
those forks you have are point and shoot rock solid

I second on the v brakes - remove the excess stuff (reflectors)

My kids have a great line
"worry about trying to keep up with the 40+ yr old guy on the 20+ yr old bike"

this came after a Boy Scout single track ride when I got snickers from some of the full sup guys for riding a Yo' Eddy with a BOI

BTW my 12Yr old twins each have a Yo Eddy put away for them


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

yaga said:


> Thanks sandmangts and jimbowho. This site has kept me reading past my usual sleep schedule. Learning correct riding techniques and the "anatomy and physiology" of the mountain bike. Those videos in the beginner section has me rewinding and pausing - studying the proper riding positions. LOL. The riding aspect (the different terrains) of it has hooked me definitely and the comments from this thread has got me to just enjoy the ride.


YAGA, Your welcome! And thanks back, I'm going to check out Towsley. 2nd week of Nov I'm going right bye there on the way back from the valley. The Hiker people mentioned oil slicks on that trail WT-hell? Does the trail stay open at night???

International bike of champions, Jeepers that's a keeper.


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

sandmangts said:


> You are riding full rigid. Anyone making jokes does not understand that learning to ride on a full rigid bike makes you a better rider. You have to learn to pick the right lines and it toughens you up. Not to mention that you will be faster on less technical areas and climbing most of the time. And while those guys are spending money on bleeding hydro brakes and fork overhauls you will be out riding.


 Well put!:thumbsup:


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## hairstream (Apr 20, 2008)

start putting together a m732/735 group. maybe a t-bone stem. and you are in!


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## scooderdude (Sep 27, 2004)

Those are good handling bikes. What I found most interesting is that the seat stays are actually fork legs. Check 'em out!


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

YES! I built many of them working at Exeter Cycles!


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## Loudviking (Oct 23, 2011)

I miss the simple elements of bikes back then.
Yes, times they are changing.


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## mechagouki (Nov 30, 2007)

I like most steel IBOCs and that is a cool looking one, love that fork. A period correct, mounted level seat would really compliment the bike (IMHO).

I'd ditch the reflectors and get a helpful wrench at your LBS to remove that redundant piece of clear plastic from your rear wheel.

Thanks for posting.


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## outside! (Mar 15, 2006)

mechagouki said:


> get a helpful wrench at your LBS to remove that redundant piece of clear plastic from your rear wheel..


Or get some dikes and take the pie plate out in pieces while drinking a beer. I third the v-brakes recommendation, they just work better for longer with less trouble.


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## longhaultrucker (Jan 24, 2007)

My LBS here in the new town had one of these in the shop for sale last week (might still be there),dirt cheap. Said a dude just left it (needing a front wheel and cables) and a mid '90s Diamond Back (frame/fork only) in the parking lot for trash/donation. Both are CHEAP and have been made ridable buy a skilled mech-dude,and did I mention are CHEAP (he said "no one wants em,they're not new..."). MAN do I wish I had the dogh to buy one of em!

Nice score,Brother,and welcome back to riding. Sweet looking piece of history I'd love to own and roll down the trail :thumbsup:


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## dt400rider (Mar 26, 2011)

I have one that I need to put some tires on it. Reading this post is motivating me to get it done.
Not sure of the year on mine. I can't post pictures yet. But will soon.


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## Caffeine Powered (Mar 31, 2005)

We sold tons of them in Texas. Solid trail bike and many were raced too. My first race MTB was an earlier version with a U-brake.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

My first real mountain bike was a IBOC Comp from the early 90"s (purchased in 1992 but was a closeout model). I rode the crap out of that bike.


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## was8v (Apr 27, 2005)

Hi! I too have an '89 IBOC, mine is the "team" model, Tange Prestige frame I built up recently with later '91 XT and DX kit.









There's some history here although no catalogue scan of your bike. MOMBAT: Mongoose History


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## rudymexico (Aug 14, 2010)

looks really good


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## guywitharitchey (Nov 29, 2011)

Offer the pie plate to the gods by fire and you will be granted years of gnarly singletrack. 


S.I.M.B.S


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## Miguello (Aug 21, 2011)

The only bad thing about going to V brakes would be changing the brake levers. That IBOC probably has shifters built into the brake lever base, which will make it difficult to do. You can't simply install V brakes on a bike with cantilevers, the levers have the wrong leverage/cable pull to make them work correctly. It could end up having less stopping power, despite the intent. A nice set of Koolstop brake shoes might be the best option.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

I hope he's figured it out since October of 2011.


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## Miguello (Aug 21, 2011)

Me too.  Just thought I would say "something" since no one else seemed to remember Cantilever brake levers and V brakes don't get along very well. I found an IBOC on ebay, and came across this thread searching them.


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