# New Whip



## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

This is my new dirt jump/street bike. Spent the last two full days out at the jumps. Top tube is real real low. My first handbuilt wheel in the rear, considering trying out a 24" rear wheel since the chainstays are a little on the long side. Going to chop about an inch of the bars too. Lots of fun.


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## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

Pics. Duh...


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## A Grove (Nov 12, 2006)

IS that the 08 or 07 nighttrain? As i'm fairly sure it is a nighttrain...


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

It's not a Nighttrain. It's Warthog or whatever. Nice ride.


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## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

Yeah, nice warthog. Funny, I quite literally JUST acquired one of those frames this past week and should have her built up similar to yours in a few days. Placed an order for parts today and should be up and runnin by next weekend. One speed, rear disc brake, argyle fork, etc. Nice to see one up and in action. Extra points for the PBR bike stand.

One question, tho. You said the chainstays felt long? Hard to manual, or what?


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## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

It's an '07 Warthog. Aluminum frame, horizontal dropouts.



pedalmunky said:


> Yeah, nice warthog. Funny, I quite literally JUST acquired one of those frames this past week and should have her built up similar to yours in a few days. Placed an order for parts today and should be up and runnin by next weekend. One speed, rear disc brake, argyle fork, etc. Nice to see one up and in action. Extra points for the PBR bike stand.
> 
> One question, tho. You said the chainstays felt long? Hard to manual, or what?


Yeah, they feel pretty long. Two reasons that I can think of right now in my case:

-Heavy front end, with a burly wheel and the "overbuilt" Dirt Jumper fork. I use the quotations because I've already tweaked the steerer tube.

-Bad gear combo. Running 36:16 for the moment, because of parts availability. Looking for something like 32:16. I am getting by with having to pound on the cranks, but its a little too steep for me to torque into a manual. With new parts I should be able to slam the rear wheel a little farther into the dropouts too. That extra .25-.5 inch DOES make a difference. (I experimented with this when the bike had a drivetrain.

Other than this I'm super happy with the bike. I didn't expect an aluminum frame to feel so smooth on the jumps.

I'll probably wind up going with an Eastern cro-mo crankset and smaller rear cog and shoot for a 2:1 ratio in the near future.


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## A Grove (Nov 12, 2006)

When you say "crank into a manual"... you mean wheelie? Manuals are usual done when coasting....


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## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

Thanx for responding so fast, man. I think I know what you mean about the gearing - if it's too high, it's harder to apply pressure on the pedals to lever the front end of the bike up as you pull on the bars (Did that make any sense?). Anyhow, I thought the chainring looked a bit big on there for a straight dirtjumper.

Still a kick-ass bike, tho. Good to hear the alu feels good, I was originally looking for a steel frame to replace a DMR, but I figured Eastern knows how to build a jump frame. Heh.


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## hotfeat1227 (May 15, 2007)

i like your tree...its actually useful.


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## A Grove (Nov 12, 2006)

hotfeat1227 said:


> i like your tree...its actually useful.


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## i like downhill (May 15, 2004)

is that the new pabst-stand?


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## snaky69 (Mar 8, 2005)

I like it, but the 24'' in the back won't do much as far as chainstays go. It'll only drop your BB height and slacken your head angle.


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## bbrz4 (Jun 12, 2007)

36/16 is hardly hard 

i couldnt stand 36/18 becuase it was way too easy


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## combatkimura (Jul 17, 2007)

you shouldn't need to crank the pedals at all to manual. It's a smooth shifting of you weight rearward while pulling up and back on the bars.


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## -.---.- (Jun 15, 2007)

most DMR frames are CrMo, except for some models...


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## cr45h (Jan 13, 2007)

bbrz4 said:


> 36/16 is hardly hard
> 
> i couldnt stand 36/18 becuase it was way too easy


wow you are super hardcore


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## bbrz4 (Jun 12, 2007)

you dont have to tell me... i already know

i was just showing off 

Geez:madman:


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## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

A Grove said:


> When you say "crank into a manual"... you mean wheelie? Manuals are usual done when coasting....


I always use the drivetrain to help lift up the front, in addition to just pulling the bars. Its much more natural for me to get the front end up that way...


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## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

snaky69 said:


> I like it, but the 24'' in the back won't do much as far as chainstays go. It'll only drop your BB height and slacken your head angle.


Acceleration mostly. Its hard for me to get up to speed in time for the dirt jump lines I ride.

No complaints for general street riding though, I like the 36/16 for that.

Don't worry about me guys, I can push that combo all day long, it just holds me back at the dirt jumps because its a BMX park and there isn't much run up to speak of...I have to pretty much hammer if I want to commit to the entire line.


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## Epschoenly (Jan 25, 2006)

You should get rid of that CS gaurd since you aren't running a rear der.


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## Andrewpalooza (Dec 7, 2004)

Epschoenly said:


> You should get rid of that CS gaurd since you aren't running a rear der.


Going to swap to a BMX crankset yo.


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## Waiting for RAD 2 (Oct 19, 2007)

I have a line on a Warthog frame for $150 is that descent? Have any of you found any geometry on the Eastern? I really like the Atomlab Trailking for the short chain stays, but $500 is a little steep.


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## snaky69 (Mar 8, 2005)

Waiting for RAD 2 said:


> I have a line on a Warthog frame for $150 is that descent? Have any of you found any geometry on the Eastern? I really like the Atomlab Trailking for the short chain stays, but $500 is a little steep.


Atomlab makes some solid stuff and I daresay it would be 500 bucks well spent. That frame would probably last until you got bored out of it.

If the frame is in new condition that's a rippin' deal, one of the cheapest frames out there(azonic steelhead, with sometimes shoddy construction and often misaligned frames) costs around 25 to 100 more, depending on location.


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## Waiting for RAD 2 (Oct 19, 2007)

How is that Eastern working for you? Anyone find out the geometry? I haven't been able to contact Eastern to find out, but I haven't been trying real hard either.


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## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

Warthogs unite!


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## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

In case anyone's wondering, 

Frame: Med Eastern Warthog (duh)
Fork: Argyle 318
Headset: FSA Pig DH-Pro
Stem: NS 40mm
Handlebar: NS Jalapeno 2.75" rise
Grips: Gusset Bastard 
Front Wheel: Performance Loco
Crankset/BB: Holzfeller 175 mm w/32t chainring
Chain: ACS single speed 
Pedals: Wellgo MG-52 Magnesium
Rear Rim: Atomlab Pimp (they're not called 'Trailpimps' anymore, FYI)
Rear Hub: DMR Revolver
Cassette: Gusset 1'er conversion kit w/ 16t cog
Brake: Juicy 3
Saddle/Seatpost: Ceneca Pivotal
F/R Tires: DMR Moto 2.2"
Valve caps: Ganked offa Slime tubes


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## Waiting for RAD 2 (Oct 19, 2007)

That looks awesome! Let me know how it rides. I didn't end up buying the Eastern. I was thinking it might be too expensive to piece a bike together so tomorrow I might be picking up a .243. I'll let you know how it goes and if I ever figure out how to post pictures I will.


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## pedalmunky (Mar 14, 2007)

Thanks man. I've only been able to ride a little bit of street, but she feels great. Too bad you couldn't pick one up, but I know a coupla guys rockin' .243's and they love 'em.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

PBR can.......very nice


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## jdude (Apr 19, 2004)

Yo Andrewp. are those dj's in Lawrence??? 

sweet whip:thumbsup:


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Pimp and Trailpimp are very different rims. I do have a set of the OG Trailpimps.


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## literocola (Dec 18, 2006)

VTSession said:


> PBR can.......very nice


+1 for PBR!


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