# Zefal Double Shot floor pump repair instructions?



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

I have a 15 year old double shot, still works great, till yesterday.... I found a seal kit for it, but can't figure out how to get the damn thing apart to measure and ensure it's right. Any links/suggestions?

Kits, for posterity:

Zefal Replacement Washer for Double-Shot Pump - 26/42mm OLD


----------



## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

If it's the pump I'm thinking of, doesn't it just have two long threaded rods, one on either side?


----------



## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

No, the twin tubes are concentric, I think it's pressed together.........


----------



## VroomVroom (Jul 2, 2015)

Slash5 said:


> If it's the pump I'm thinking of, doesn't it just have two long threaded rods, one on either side?
> View attachment 916558


Yes, this is my pump!! I bought the replacement gaskets/washers from Niagara Cycle and installed them and the pump still does not work. Any suggestions???? I noticed that you have a Silca Chuck on yours. I use the same set up and I love it, the best floor pump ever, but now it doesn't work for some reason.


----------



## Spec44 (Aug 17, 2013)

Did you apply any grease to the inside of the cylinders? It's needed to complete the seal between the gasket and the cylinder wall. I just use a sprits of lithium grease.


----------



## VroomVroom (Jul 2, 2015)

Yes, I applied some Phil Wood Bearing Grease, but maybe not enough or maybe not the right thing to use. Maybe I will tear it apart again and try something different like your lithium grease. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Spec44 (Aug 17, 2013)

I'm no pump expert, but how is it not working? Is it that you can just push he handle/plunger without building any pressure? The plunger was a tight fit putting it back in the tube with the new o-ring/washer? Washer/gasket doesn't have a lip that if installed upside down would render it inoperable? It operates smoothly, so you don't think the tubes are deformed? I assume you don't hear a woosh of air leaving the pump at an inappropriate location (i.e. a hole)?

You don't have to answer all these, I'm just throwing out things to ponder in diagnosing.


----------



## VroomVroom (Jul 2, 2015)

I don't think I have the either washer/gasket upside down, but I might when I open it up again I will have to double check that. Don't think the tubes are deformed, the plunger does work smoothly, buy not so smooth that you might think air was sliding by the washer/gasket. The evidence that it is not working is this; there is sound of air being taken in on the up stroke of the plunger, but no air being expelled on the down stroke. Thanks for your reply and interest in helping. I love that pump and would really like it to work again.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I have been using an old beater pump that I bought in a garage sale more than 15 years ago and it's still going strong.

I have never changed the seals, but have had to perform periodic maintenance by simply re-greasing the seals. I tried using a thick, marine grease once and had problems with it. Since then I discovered that a thinner, lighter lubricant (grease) works much better. The last few lubes have been Buzzy's Slick Honey and it has worked great.

Good luck with getting this fixed.


----------



## VroomVroom (Jul 2, 2015)

I have just taken my Zefal Plus Double Shot (pictured above) apart for about the fourth time and it still doesn't work. I think I have the new replacement gaskets installed correctly and I don't think I have a grease/lub problem. What I notice now is a big air leak/whoosh coming from a hole at the bottom of the large tube. I thought that this was an air intake port, but air is definitely being pumped out of the hole. Any help from anyone out there.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Sounds like you're missing, or have a malfunctioning intake check valve issue.


----------



## VroomVroom (Jul 2, 2015)

Can you explain or do you have any idea what that is and how it functions??? I don't find anything inside the tubes that would appear to be a check value.


----------



## Bentpencil (Sep 12, 2015)

VroomVroom said:


> Can you explain or do you have any idea what that is and how it functions??? I don't find anything inside the tubes that would appear to be a check value.


This is directly from ZEFAL. (see attachment also)
The 2 washers have not the same position. Small one points down, big one points up, as shown on drawing. 
The drawing I sent to you earlier today is just to show how the washers have to be placed. 
Part 5 = big washer, size 42 
Part 6 = metal plate for big washer 
Part 7 = small metal plate for big washer 
Part 8 = metal inner part for inner diameter of big washer 
Part 9 = screw

Same construction for small washer. 
The other parts of pump should not have to be unmounted to replace the washers. 
Hydraulic oil is the best to preserve the washers.

Hope this helps.

Sinceremente, Ralph


----------



## Bentpencil (Sep 12, 2015)

I have the same issue with the brunt 97% of the air coming out of the intake hole at the bottom of the larger barrel. There are O-rings in the bottom of the small barrel which fits down into the base of the pump. If you look inside the bottom of the small barrel there is a small hard rubber piece that sits in there and rests on a small spring (like an ink pen spring) that's part of the "base" In the bottom where the tubes set into the base there is a rubber gasket that helps seal it. There is also another one that set's inside the piece that rest just under the handle at the top of the pump.
The two steel rods slide through this black plastic piece and also those white plastic pieces that press fit into the same black plastic piece. In there are also some black rubber washers roughly half moon shaped (they only fit in there one way correctly. When you take the pump apart those washers can become moved out of their correct orientation. 
Bottom line there is a lot more to refurbishing one of these pumps than replacing the two main washers and putting a little hydraulic oil in there. 
I don't know about anyone else, But I sure could use a clear exploded parts diagram to work from in order to replace and orient all the washers and O-rings properly.
Sorry if this sounds confusing..I'm trying to explain the best I can.
Hope this helps and I hope someone else out there can contribute to this Post.
Best, Ralph


----------



## 2WheelsRGood (Sep 29, 2016)

This thread and another one on the Zefal Plus pump are about a year old, but I was wondering what ever came of your pumps. Were you able to fix them?


----------



## RoyNajecki (Jul 24, 2018)

I was searching the internet for advice on repairing my 1990's era Zefal Plus pump when I found this forum and thread. The attached photos may be of help. The large cup shaped washer is open towards the pump handle, vs the small washer is open towards the pump base. When taking the base off the tubes a small spring and triangular black plastic part are likely to fall out. The spring sits in the small tube side of the base and the triangular black plastic part is in the bottom of the small tube. As for washer lubricant it feels like a light coat of baby oil, 3 in 1 oil, or perhaps petroleum jelly (Vaseline).


----------



## tacarlso (Sep 22, 2020)

*same problem, still*

Has anyone figured the problem? I too, took apart this Zefal Double shot pump, replaced the plungers/washers, reassembled, and now does not operate. What did I do wrong?


----------



## RoyNajecki (Jul 24, 2018)

If the two cupped washers face in the wrong direction, and if the triangular black plastic part is not installed with the spring (it easily falls out during reassembly) the pump won't work. You also have to lubricate the washers to ensure a good air seal. To my recollection, that triangular black plastic part works as the 'check valve'.


----------



## tacarlso (Sep 22, 2020)

Yes, I have those parts as they should be. How about the orientation of the blue tubes? There is a small hole on one end. Should it be at the top or bottom? Should I experience resistance when extending the handle (i.e. during the upstroke)?


----------



## RoyNajecki (Jul 24, 2018)

I have my pump right here beside me. The small hole, which is on the larger tube, is at the base of the pump. Yes, you should have resistance on upstroke and downstroke. Maybe it is just my pump, but the upstroke has greater resistance than the downstroke.


----------



## Bentpencil (Sep 12, 2015)

This should help get things back to normal
1/ some drops of oil are necessary (hydrolic oil), to insure good behaviour of washers.
2/ the torque force to insure good behaviour of nuts is 1.5Nm. If you screw the nuts too much, the top cover will bend and create leakage each time the handle is pulled.
3/ O rings at the end of barrels must not be unmounted. They are not in function during inflation (only used to secure pressure between barrels).
4 / If face difficulties to pull handle up. This should mean the air flow is not correct between the 2 barrels. If the handle is difficult to push means the seat valve could be obstructed. The seta valve is the black piece at the end of small barrel. It is composed of spring and black piece, that avoid any air return from tire to pump.
Note: Have you tried to unmount the hose from base to check if air is flowing correctly from the hole?
Have you tried to check if air leakage was present between all elements? You can use water+soap to check.
Courtesy Pierre 10 years experience in ZEFAL


----------



## EdSy (Mar 31, 2021)

I'm working on the same side by side tube pump. When I removed the top with the piston rods and cup washers, I found the large side cup washer (piston) looking good, but the small side cup washer came out in pieces. I got them all out of the small tube using compressed air. When I looked into the two tubes, the large one is perfectly smooth, but the bore of the small tube looks like the metal support washer that goes against the cup has gouged it over the entire piston stroke. Is my pump "completely dead" or repairable? Many thanks, Ed


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

that is repairable with epoxy filling the groove

you need a plunger to smear the epoxy into the groove and be able to
clean up the bore and anything that doesn't stay in the groove so the original piston doesn't jam up

doable with some tools to reach in and clean up epoxy spillage


----------

