# Best bike for a heavy/strong rider who rides on mountain trails?



## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

If you check out my thread here:

https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-compon...y-drive-chain-brake-1102072.html#post14067637

You'll see that I'm new to the sport, bought a Marlin 5 and already destroyed the thing after 4 days into riding. I think I need something heavy duty or a bit more advanced for the trails I hit. Lots of climbing/dry trails, some what rocky since we live in BC, Canada - but lots of down hill stuff that can take a beating.

Thanks for any advice. Budget isn't an issue right now but nothing too crazy, I'd like to stay under $3000 Canadian if I can. I was looking at a Fat Bike too...but not sure if there are any that are super strong for what I'm looking to do. Or if you can comment on certain drive chain components you found works best.

I'm 5'11" - 245lbs. I lift heavy, squat over 500, deadlift 600+, and bench about 400. I'm a big rider who needs a bike I can throw around and have it take a beating.

Thanks


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

I'm similar size to you 6ft, 240lb's...

Use to lift heavy-ish (less than your no.s though) back in my younger days.

If you get seriously into MTB'ing, you'll find that your physical makeup will change slightly.

You'll likely drop weight in your first 6 months too.

Strong bikes I've ridden (+my $0.02)

Kona Process 134
-Kona bikes are built tough
-Also heavy, one of reasons I sold mine
*If you could find something from the Process range, it'd handle what you can dish out.

Giant Reign 2
-Mine was a '17
-Built tough
-Reasonable weight
-Geo meant hard work on climbs
-Super stable/confident in the chunder, best bike at going down I've owned
*'19 models are spec'd with crap drivetrains & brakes (lower end models)

My current mule is a '19 Polygon Siskiu N8.
Probably the heaviest bike I've owned... but, it pedals better than my old Kona/Giant bikes.

Not quite as stable as the Reign at Mach Chicken. Bigger hoops means it doesn't get hung up as much.

I'd love to try the Trek Full Stache. Locally they've dropped in price. If the timing had of been a few months earlier, I'd likely have bought it instead of the N8 o_0

The bikes I've owned were all Alu & pretty good bikes for the price. They never held me back (maybe a little on the climbs).

If money were no object... I'd add the following bikes to my hit list.

Pivot Mach 5.5/Switcblade

Santa Cruz Bronson/Nomad

Ibis Ripmo/HD4

Unfortunately, I don't have a money tree =(

So I buy smart at the mid to lower price point.

Good luck with your bike hunt ^^



'Born to ride!'


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Here's a fun vid to watch riding a trail in your area.





And another.






Check with the shop about upcoming demo days for on trail free test rides.

Pinkbike Buy/Sell has listings in your area for good used bikes.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

One more.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Very few "off the shelf" bikes are going to stand up to you. My suggestion would be to find a frame that suits your needs. I would say based on your height a 27.5 or 27.5+ hard tail (I say hard tail because full suspension bikes might not like what you do to them, and as you get better at riding you will be just fine w/o rear suspension) that is build around a 140-150mm fork is a great start. 

Where big guys need the most help is drivetrain, wheels, and a fork. I would have mikesee at lacemine29 build some nice wheels for you. Chris King is the best hub for clydes, but DT swiss and Onyx also stand up well. For drivetrain I would say Shimano XT or Saint crankset, and 1x11 with Shimano 11-46 cassette (cheapest 11speed cassette, you will probably be going through one a year). KMC 11.93 chain is a great clyde option. 

Forks are going to be another area where you will want to invest some money and possibly have custom tuned. Rockshox Pike, MRP Ribbon are both great options. Other than that improving technique will really go a long way to helping keep your bike together.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

I'm 5'11" and 250 pounds. I love riding Transition bikes! Their 2018 and newer aluminum frames are very burly and handles everything I throw at them. It's crazy to hear you demolished the Marlin already! I understand the terrain you ride. I live just south of you in WA. We have more roots and climbs down here while you guys have all the rocks.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Knolly


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

eb1888 said:


> Here's a fun vid to watch riding a trail in your area.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a great vid. Funnily enough also the reason I'm enjoying riding my hardtail on my local trails more than anything now. Keeps them interesting.


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## brawlo (Mar 13, 2012)

Barch88 said:


> If you check out my thread here:
> 
> https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-compon...y-drive-chain-brake-1102072.html#post14067637
> 
> ...


How exactly did "destroy" your bike? I'm assuming that you didn't fold the thing in half. From your other post, it looks like you just did some damage to some drivetrain components.

As a big guy (6'5"~290lb) you need to acknowledge the strain that you put o the components in your drivetrain. Doing things like changing gears while under heavy load can kill chains, chainrings and cassette cogs. Way way back before I took a hiatus from riding, I bent a chainring doing exactly that, and ever since I put a conscious deload on the pedals when changing gears. Since I got back into riding about 11 years ago, the only thing that I have broken is a chain on the bike I leave in my trainer, and it cops a massive beating with standing starts and big torque efforts. I monitor my equipment and change things like chains and cassettes before they come to their dying point.

Do the research and find out what kind of componentry you want to aim at cost wise. Personally, I run Shinamo stuff because it may be a touch "less nice" than SRAM, the cost of parts is just way more economical for me down in Oz. I don't think I'd be too far wrong in saying that most mid level and up componentry should handle you. For that extra level, perhaps look at gear made for the super abusive downhill market.


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## CDSV900Rider98 (Jun 14, 2009)

Yeah, Brawlo is a BIG GUY - I would say he is in the threshold of really BIG DUDES! I never considered myself a "Big Guy" even when I was younger and maturing into adulthood and into middle-age numbers; however, population average places me in the big guy category: I consider myself a "Small Big Guy" ~ 6ft 1" and fluctuate between 260lbs and 270lbs. I cannot ride a hardtail - ever since I bought my 1997 Cannondale SuperV900 in January 1998: I felt like I stole it from the Washington Bike Center - I paid below $1000.00 on clearance. 

I have enjoyed my Cannondale SV900 for many, many years; it has proven to be durable to the punishment I have put on it over the 1000's of 1000's of miles on the single-track trails, dirt, gravel and paved trails of northern Virginia; this bicycle took the punishment of "The Meadowlands" of New Jersey [Geez Louise, I thought I rode up on a mafia hit job - ~ 50 yards; I don't know what I saw, but my senses told me to get the hell out of there: I actually rode through the marshes of the meadowlands then I had to ride on the rails being alert for trains - it was the scariest ride for me. This bicycle has been great for me since the January 1998.

I have been trying to ride my CDSV900 since I returned to Florida in 2015 - I never thought I would hate living in Florida. A lot has change since I left in the 1980's. It is very, very dangerous to ride a bicycle in the ******* Riviera - it wasn't dangerous for me as a kid riding my 1980 Red Ross 12-speed, which was my high school graduation gift and transportation in college. I might be able to get that old bicycle back from my nephew living in NJ - he rode it for a couple of years. That Red Ross bicycle was a very good bicycle for me too. I rode my Red Ross all over the ******* Riviera and in Mississippi - NEVER GOT FLATS like I experienced in recent years.

I believe bicycle tires are inferior today compared to yester-years! Why do I have to purchase tire liners to prevent flats? inferior tires! I finally bit the bullet and purchased the Rhinodillo brown tire liners; installed them yesterday on my bicycle; I am cleaning my bicycle in preparation for my return to riding regularly. I pray I have a safe, enjoyable riding season followed by many safe and enjoyable riding seasons. 

Agree = "Mountain biking: the under-rated and drug-free antidepressant"


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## CDSV900Rider98 (Jun 14, 2009)

eb1888 said:


> Here's a fun vid to watch riding a trail in your area.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing - funny video - I never rode trails like that in NOVA! I do remember the trail "care-takers" making the trails easier. I know "Difficult Run" trail was not a top rated suicide crazy ass trail even at its peak of "Difficulty", but it was challenging for me. The guys in the video sounded as if they were from one of the ANZAC countries?


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

CDSV900Rider98 said:


> Thanks for sharing - funny video - I never rode trails like that in NOVA! I do remember the trail "care-takers" making the trails easier. I know "Difficult Run" trail was not a top rated suicide crazy ass trail even at its peak of "Difficulty", but it was challenging for me. The guys in the video sounded as if they were from one of the ANZAC countries?


They are all from Canadia. It's Wade Simmons, he's an mtb god.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

A Trek Marin really isn't much more than an entry level bike so it's not surprising that it was destroyed. I'm 300+ and don't destroy bikes and I ride fairly hard on fairly nasty terrain. I am currently on a DiamondBack Release and no issues. I was on a Norco Torrent HT prior to that and it was perfect. Key is to get at least mid-tier components and if possible, custom wheels. Thus far I've had nothing but complete success running WTB rims and Hope hubs though some sensitive wankers like to cry about them being too loud. They make noise, deal with it. But they are pretty darn near bombproof too. 32 spokes. Stout rims. Hand built. Mid-tier components (on GX Eagle now), big rotors, 4 piston front brake. Air fork with 35mm or 36mm stanchions. You should be good to go.

There's also a lot to be said about learning how to ride as well. Proper shifting and braking as to not destroy drivetrains. Ride light and not break seat posts, saddles, or cranks. Don't just bash into things and save your rims. Understand that getting air and being really heavy isn't easy on frames or suspension.


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Nubster said:


> A Trek Marin really isn't much more than an entry level bike so it's not surprising that it was destroyed. I'm 300+ and don't destroy bikes and I ride fairly hard on fairly nasty terrain. I am currently on a DiamondBack Release and no issues. I was on a Norco Torrent HT prior to that and it was perfect. Key is to get at least mid-tier components and if possible, custom wheels. Thus far I've had nothing but complete success running WTB rims and Hope hubs though some sensitive wankers like to cry about them being too loud. They make noise, deal with it. But they are pretty darn near bombproof too. 32 spokes. Stout rims. Hand built. Mid-tier components (on GX Eagle now), big rotors, 4 piston front brake. Air fork with 35mm or 36mm stanchions. You should be good to go.
> 
> There's also a lot to be said about learning how to ride as well. Proper shifting and braking as to not destroy drivetrains. Ride light and not break seat posts, saddles, or cranks. Don't just bash into things and save your rims. Understand that getting air and being really heavy isn't easy on frames or suspension.


Haha 100% true story. My Marlin 5 is running great. My shop was able to replace my chainring and it runs solid. I'm a lot "easier" on it during my trail runs now, and I think I've learned to not put too much pressure on the bike during shifts. It's a solid bike and will last me this year while I learn to ride and get my fitness up to par.

I've been taking this time to learn and study what new bike I want to get. I've been looking at a few different options.

Should I go FS, Rigid, or normal Hardtail with front fork? I'm probably going to go with a conservative budget of around $2000-$2500. What's the strongest and best bike I can get for that price range?

I do:

Trail/Downhill mountain stuff
Riding around town on pavement

I was thinking about getting a cheap entry level road bike for $1000 for riding around town and getting a nicer mountain bike for $1500 but not sure if that's smart, if theres a bike out there that can do both.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Kona wozo seems very advanced geo but super flexible design for the combinations you can put together. As in fat bike ready etc. I think its stock w a great fork and 3.25" tirees


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

I tend to think the in between road versus offroad bikes aren't the best for serious mountainbiking. More adventure excursion/bikepacking. I'd get exactly the right mountainbike, and maybe put slicker tires on your current bike and use for asphalt. Then eventually get the right road or cyclocross bike.

FWIW, this bike is on my N + 1 list. It's at the top, in fact: 
https://allcitycycles.com/bikes/electric_queen

Well, along with 3 others from that page. And a Salsa Timberjack. Maybe a Beargrease. Oh, I like the Mukluk, too.


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Muirenn said:


> I tend to think the in between road versus offroad bikes aren't the best for serious mountainbiking. More adventure excursion/bikepacking. I'd get exactly the right mountainbike, and maybe put slicker tires on your current bike and use for asphalt. Then eventually get the right road or cyclocross bike.
> 
> FWIW, this bike is on my N + 1 list. It's at the top, in fact:
> https://allcitycycles.com/bikes/electric_queen
> ...


That's actually not a bad idea. I was going to give my wife my Marlin 5 so she can ride the trails with me, that's why I was thinking about getting a entry level ~$1000 road bike, and then $1500-$2000 for a mountain bike for myself.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

Barch88 said:


> I've been taking this time to learn and study what new bike I want to get. I've been looking at a few different options.
> 
> Should I go FS, Rigid, or normal Hardtail with front fork? I'm probably going to go with a conservative budget of around $2000-$2500. What's the strongest and best bike I can get for that price range?
> 
> ...


I do recommend a road bike for the road or streets. That's how I burned 30 pounds in 6 months. Road cycling also a great way to help add more fitness and variety to your cycling. I think you should consider a full suspension if you find yourself going hard on your current bike. There are plenty of options available out there. If you want to stick with Trek, their carbon frames are rated up to 300 pounds of total weight. This includes their road bikes too.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

The suspension fork on the Marlin isn’t an air fork, more a pogo stick. If she is going to ride those trails, she’ll need proper suspension. It’s safer, for one.

But, does she want to mountainbike? Or bike at all?


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Muirenn said:


> The suspension fork on the Marlin isn't an air fork, more a pogo stick. If she is going to ride those trails, she'll need proper suspension. It's safer, for one.
> 
> But, does she want to mountainbike? Or bike at all?


She wants a bike to ride with me on trails and around town, yes. She wouldn't take the sport very seriously and highly doubt would tear the bike up like I would, she just wants to be a part of it lol.

I'll look into a FS bike for myself and a road bike. Any road bike suggestions for a man my size?


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Barch88 said:


> She wants a bike to ride with me on trails and around town, yes. She wouldn't take the sport very seriously and highly doubt would tear the bike up like I would, she just wants to be a part of it lol.
> 
> I'll look into a FS bike for myself and a road bike. Any road bike suggestions for a man my size?


 What is the budget for the road bike? And are you thinking of an all terrain type road bike, or something that has to stay on asphalt at all times?


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

I'd like something just for the road. I honestly would like to keep my budget to $750-$1500 if I can manage, the lower end. Just something to ride faster than my Marlin 5 around my town. I don't need to take it off pavement at all, I'll keep my mountain bike for that. I was looking at the Giant Contend 3, it's only $650 and not sure how well equipped it is, I know at that price point I wouldn't get a carbon frame, not sure if it matters to me too much though.

thanks


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

That is one I would have suggested. The Shimano Claris is entry-level for a road bike. But pretty good. It does have an aluminum fork, which will have more road buzz than a carbon fork, which is often put on an aluminum frame, but for the money it's a nice bike. I do think the size recommendations are a little off. A little small.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

My opinion is to get a gravel/adventure bike. You don't lose anything on pavement unless you plan to do group rides at 25mpg average but you gain the ability to run larger tires which adds much needed comfort to a road bike and in case you come across some gravel roads while out riding...you won't be at a severe disadvantage like you would be on a pavement only bike. They also tend to be a little more relaxed in geometry which also helps for a more comfortable ride.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

I'm the same size as you , on a 2019 Fuel Ex 8. 
It's held up just fine since October.
I did upgrade the rear hub to 108 pt from 54 pt.
The trek has a 2 year warranty on parts.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Jamis Coda Comp. comes with disc brakes, smooth steel frameset. Wider tires than found on road bikes so can be taken off asphalt if necessary, $789. I think that is Canadian. There are two cheaper models, but with rim brakes. Discs have more stopping power. Really good bike. They also have a women's version. https://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/codaseries.html

They have a nice gravel bike at a good price, too. The group on the gravel bike is better than the bike above. But the Coda frameset is much better. https://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/renegadeexile.html. The Renegade has thru axels. Altogether a nice set-up.

If this were me I'd probably take a very serious look at the Renegade. Drop bars are comfortable. Good wheels and tires. Nice quality group. Plus, the Coda has a triple crankset. Which is kind of iffy, especially such a lower level one. Tend to need a lot of adjustment.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I suggest either a Surly Ice Cream Truck or a Krampus. I have a Krampus and a 907 fat bike which I'm looking to replace the frameset with the new Ice Cream Truck. 
I'm taller and heavier than you. I buy framesets and lace my own wheels since I destroy factory wheels. 

Whatever bike you buy, have someone who knows wheels go over the wheels.


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Thanks for the replies. I actually had someone want to trade me for my Marlin 5. It's a 2014 full carbon Opus Allegro, my size too. Is it good deAl?


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Hm. Do you know this person? Has the bike been crashed? Can a mechanic check the frameset to make certain it's sound? Used carbon makes me nervous. But, if it's legit, then certainly it's a good deal. Almost too good to be true, really. As for Opus, I'm not familiar with the company.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=3054934

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=3054933

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=3054932

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=3054931&make=1048&priceMax=4889


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Muirenn said:


> Hm. Do you know this person? Has the bike been crashed? Can a mechanic check the frameset to make certain it's sound? Used carbon makes me nervous. But, if it's legit, then certainly it's a good deal. Almost too good to be true, really. As for Opus, I'm not familiar with the company.
> 
> https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=3054934
> 
> ...


I don't know the person, but they are local. I can have my local shop give it a once over. The previous owner has paperwork from a shop that has looked it over and evaluated it's value so I'm guessing that it's been inspected


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

The first link was broken, but I fixed it. That one is the lowest level, the last is the highest level (of componentry).


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Sounds like a decent opportunity for a nice road bike. And then you can concentrate on finding the right mountainbike for you, and the best option for your wife, too.

The 2002 Zurich Lemond in my signature was a Craigslist bike. Really in excellent shape. I think I got it around 2014. It's a high grade steel, so less risk than carbon. As long as a mechanic verifies it's in good shape, then no problem.

Here is a geometry chart. The bike is quite relaxed, high stack compared to reach numbers. That is good.

https://www.bikeland.ca/images/library/features/GeoChart_Allegro.jpg

Looks like the bike came with 28 mm tires, which is nice. Wider than the typical 23 mm. I can't tell if the bike comes with disc or rim brakes with quick release.

Okay. Found this. Must be rim brakes. https://issuu.com/opusbike/docs/opus-en-2014?e=16752410/32870539


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

Barch88 said:


> I'd like something just for the road. I honestly would like to keep my budget to $750-$1500 if I can manage, the lower end. Just something to ride faster than my Marlin 5 around my town. I don't need to take it off pavement at all, I'll keep my mountain bike for that. I was looking at the Giant Contend 3, it's only $650 and not sure how well equipped it is, I know at that price point I wouldn't get a carbon frame, not sure if it matters to me too much though.
> 
> thanks


Definitely an endurance bike if you want to stick with strictly a road bike. The Trek Domane is a great endurance bike. Salsa also makes awesome gravel bikes that can handle road cycling duties. I'm tempted to sell my Trek Emonda to buy a Salsa Warbird just so I can add variety to my cycling adventures.


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## Barch88 (Apr 22, 2019)

Muirenn said:


> Sounds like a decent opportunity for a nice road bike. And then you can concentrate on finding the right mountainbike for you, and the best option for your wife, too.
> 
> The 2002 Zurich Lemond in my signature was a Craigslist bike. Really in excellent shape. I think I got it around 2014. It's a high grade steel, so less risk than carbon. As long as a mechanic verifies it's in good shape, then no problem.
> 
> ...


Hey again. So I ended up doing the trade for the road bike. I can already tell the difference between Tourney level stuff and Ultegra quality groupsets, wow! The bike has much harsher of a ride but it doesn't bother me, I love how fast it is. I did a lap around my block in like 30 seconds and was able to "coast" very far with little effort to get the bike going up to speed, I feel like I put way less strain on this bike than my Trek, just because I don't find myself standing and pushing as hard to get going.

WRT my mountain bike search, I took everyone's advice and I have been looking at the Surly Krampus or Surly Karate Monkey. What are the differences between the two, besides the Krampus being only 29"? I also been weighing the options of a FS bike, but still uncertain if I want to go that route.

heres a pic of the new road bike-


http://imgur.com/tE7morn


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Krampus is 29+. KM is 27.5+/29. KM also has sliding dropouts in case you want to run single speed. Not sure about geo differences. They both have the same HT angle. That's all I know. I like 27.5+ and I like single speed...so it would be KM for me.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

The Krampus also has the new Gnot Boost dropouts. They're excellent. 

My bike is geared, One of my friends runs his SS.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

The KM is suspension corrected for a suspension fork, and the Krampus apparently isn't, but a lot of people in the Surly forum run it with a suspension fork. So I'm not really sure. But that point is worth checking. 

Where I live, at sea-level, suspension isn't such a big deal. Plus, I'm coming from road, which is rigid, so it's more natural to me (for now). With your terrain, I assume suspension is more important. But a lot of people ride full rigid on gnarly terrain. So I don't really know. It's important to explore, though. 

Congrats on the Opus. A good way to upgrade. Tourney to Ultegra. Yeah. No kidding!


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Barch88 said:


> heres a pic of the new road bike-
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/tE7morn


Nice! Very smart trade.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

NYrr496 said:


> The Krampus also has the new Gnot Boost dropouts. They're excellent.
> 
> My bike is geared, One of my friends runs his SS.


Great to have the option to run either way. I guess any bike does with EBB's or tensioners...but those just don't work as well as a slider does IMO. As a single speeder...that's definitely a great selling point for a frame for me.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

https://fat-bike.com/2018/01/2017-surly-krampus-gnot-boost-and-not-bad-by-nick-holzem/


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

I still like the idea of the Stache for your area. And it comes with a dropper post.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...ikes/stache/stache-5/p/23107/?colorCode=black


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## Tytlynz (Apr 29, 2015)

The Trek Roscoe is a nice bike as well. Very capable and 27+ to smooth the ride. In your price range. Worth a test ride.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

NYrr496 said:


> The Krampus also has the new Gnot Boost dropouts. They're excellent.
> 
> My bike is geared, One of my friends runs his SS.


I had the OG Krampus with bolted rear hub and still could never get away from the rear tire rubbing on the chainstays when climbing with a 3" knard. I loved the bike otherwise, but did prefer my KM as a single speed.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Muirenn said:


> I still like the idea of the Stache for your area. And it comes with a dropper post.
> 
> https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...ikes/stache/stache-5/p/23107/?colorCode=black


I have also heard 1st person reports of the stache rear end being flexy and rear tire rubbing chainstays.


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## DaddyFatStax (Dec 10, 2018)

jonshonda said:


> I had the OG Krampus with bolted rear hub and still could never get away from the rear tire rubbing on the chainstays when climbing with a 3" knard. I loved the bike otherwise, but did prefer my KM as a single speed.


The new Krampus frame is much more laterally stiff than the OG frame from what I read. I have a new one set up as SS, slammed up in the dropouts. I put down a lot of power and havent rubbed once with 3" dirt wizards.


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## spaztwelve (Apr 14, 2006)

I'm a bit more than you and do not hold back on big enough hits, big slabs, drops, and rough terrain. I've been riding a 2017 Commencal Meta AM V4.2 since 2017 and it's held up phenomenally well. I've bashed it quite a bit (and I find - at least for that year - that the paint quality wasn't so great) and destroyed the Formula rear hub that came on it. Other than that, it's been extremely fun and functional. I'm selling it to a friend for short money and diving into a new Guerrilla Gravity Smash (new carbon 'Revved' frame). I'm only moving because I'm going to 29" wheels, which I feel suit my height, and I'm in love with that bike. The decision was definitely moved along due to my buddy getting back in to shredding. That's my .02 cents. There's probably lots of good advice out there.


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