# First XHP bikr lights :)



## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Hiya
Sorry if this has already been posted, first lights (at least that ive found) featuring xhp leds:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025591....6500K-3500-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Bike-Light-Black
There's an xhp50 as well. Looks like thats gonna be my new light for 2016/7 
Cheers


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Not a lot of information on this lamp. Beam pattern looks like it might be a thrower. If it is it might of been useful as a helmet lamp except that it looks to be quite big and quite heavy. 

It is listed as being able to run for over three hours on a good 6800mAh battery pack. That probably means it is not being driven as hard as it could be. That said don't hold your breath waiting to see if you're getting an actual 3500 lumen. If you get 1800-2000 lumen consider yourself lucky. KD does tend to over rate the output of some of their lamps. Another downside is the lamp UI seems to be using a 5 mode flashlight UI. The upside is; "It's a light". It should allow you to see to ride at night as long as it works. 

Thanks for the heads-up on the lamp. Let us know how you like it when you get it. User reviews are always helpful.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

3500 out that....not. 1500 max is my guess. The drive current needed to push 3500 out of those a good 6800mah pack may be able to push for about 1.5hrs.

Neat idea, but typical Chinese bs sadly. Been better off using an xhp50.

I'm looking forward to seeing more about it though. Could be the start of some new stuff we start seeing.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

This Kaidomain cool white light seems to be a half-hearted attempt and the flashlight world is starting to use the xhp70, but there doesn't seem any serious effort in using the XHP emitters. The MTG2 seemed to get more attention and that emitter had more downsides. A properly executed high CRI xhp35 with a 4S battery pack should be able to bang out 1500 lumens for a long time with a decent beam in a small package. Two of them would be perfect for so many riders.

Whatever happened with Xeccon and the Z10? They seem to have faded away but are still in business. The light is now called the Zeta 1300 (supposedly produces 1300 ANSI lumens). I thought it was going to start the shift to high powered single emitter multi die lights and the multi emitter lights would be going xpg3 by now, it just seems strange that constant evolution of led lighting seems to have stalled on the xml.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I'd roll the dice on an xhp50 warm white if it was offered. Kaidomain is back in my good graces.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya the companies have been stuck on the xm-l2 for a while. Xhp series emitters have their drawbacks though. Voltage requirements, heat and biggest of all, trying to get a tight beam pattern and not be a huge light.

My guess is we are seeing the infancy of multi-die emitter based lights starting to come into the light. The mtg2 emitter had several issues so my guess too is that companies are hesitant to risk another repeat of that.

We are also in the transition of leaving cool white to the trash cans and going neutral white do to the fact it's as good as cool white in all way but one, in which it's superior by far.

I'm not keen on mult-die emitter based helmet lights only due to size requirement to get a beam pattern that has solid throw. But as a bar light, it would be unmatched. 

Though we still aren't seeing xp-l emitters being used which are more efficient than xm-l2. Same lumens with lower heat to deal with.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Would the emitter in this light be the 6v or 12v version?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There's not different versions. It's all the same emitter. 6 vs 12v is based on how its set up on the PCB. 

If you "break it down" it's like having 4 xm-l2 so you have 2 configurations:

2s2p (2 x 3V= 6v. 2 of these in parallel)

Or 

4s.

I foresee another problem. The " + " or a donut hole showing in the beam pattern with this light. Be curious to see if the reflector is big enough to deal with it.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hmm this got the gears turning... I haven't messed with xhp70s yet.

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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Thanks Tigris, the reason i asked is because ive recently been trying to make some home lighting with bigger leds like the CXA2530 and ive been using this to see how hard I wanna drive them:
Cree Product Characterization Tool
From this i can see that the XHP70 at 2.2A is putting out 1159.2lm which aint that great. But i guess im crunching the numbers incorrectly...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya that number isn't coming out right. They can push around 4000 lumens at max rated drive current. Just checked data sheet your talking 1600-1700 lumens on 6v at 2.1A or 12v at half that. 1.05A. So if your to push a 12v system to 2.2A your going to be north of 3500 lumens.

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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

I just did a fast calculation. Assuming a 6V configuration and the coolest bin, XPH70 is listing 1710 lumen @ 2100ma. That is the nominal / reference setting. Judging from the "Relative Flux vs. Current" chart for the 6volt, if you were able to run the lamp at about 2600ma ( 120% of ref. Amps ), that would be roughly 2052 lumen. If you used that as your high mode that would get decent run times with good batteries. Perhaps even the 3.3 hrs listed by K/D. 

Now if you chose to push the current to say, 4400ma ( or 4.4A to put another way ) that would push the output to ~ 180% of the *reference output ( *1710 lm ) so....that would be about 3078 lumen. A 4.4A drain on a standard battery would significantly lower the run times. With a good 6-cell you might be able to get near two hrs on high...maybe. 

Of course as tigris pointed out, there is the question of whether or not there is a projected beam artifact for the 4-die configuration of the LED. Perhaps if the OP reflector or optic is not too narrow it might not be a problem. ( *perhaps if the dome is a bit clouded it might eliminate much of the "+" ) Some of the torch manufacturers are somehow getting around the artifact problem so perhaps it's doable. It would be interesting to see how well the KD lamp actually handles these potential problems. If it actually could throw out a 2000 lumen output without being too wide it might make an interesting choice for a helmet lamp. That's assuming of course that you can handle the weight of the lamp on the head. Still the UI of this lamp sucks.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> Hmm this got the gears turning... I haven't messed with xhp70s yet.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


I think the flashlight guys are using 26650 batteries and large orange peel reflectors and getting a large powerful beam. Good xpl hi lights are out throwing them. I just don't see that emitter working well for us, unless the reflector is huge it'll need a ton of lumens to reach down the trail and chances are there will be so much spill light reflecting off stuff back into our eyes it'll make our pupils shrink. Even though it is really bright we will probably end up seeing less details in the trail and at the same time be totally blinding for people we come across. And bigger reflectors and cooling fins is something I don't want on a helmet.

Picture that tiny little xhp50 Xeccon Z10 you and Archie reviewed last year. A little bigger reflector and cooling fins, drive it harder and it would have been great. Better yet put an xhp35 in there, run it on 12 volts from a four cell series pack and use a driver with Ituo levels of efficiency. Now the driver is using less than half the current and making less than half the heat. Spend a couple bucks more on the emitter and get an 85 CRI version with a nice tint. In the end you have a low profile, light weight, high quality light with really good run times. That's the direction lights should be going, there's already lots of lights for the lumen whores. And good riddance to series parallel battery packs.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

it stinks that lights dont "evolve" like the bike industry does. But when your trying to prove a pricier light is better than cheap china junk when the cheap junk says more lumens and everyone is still stuck on 8.4v volt packs I dont foresee an end in site. 

Many people hate "proprietary" and dont look at lighting the same way as they do the latest and greatest bike parts. Us here on the other hand, we get it. we want it. but for now have to make it ourselves. For now, maybe at some point the risk will be taken to move beyond old tech (except emitters which only the big name brands light nightrider, cygolight, etc dont keep up with the times) and go into optimized lighting systems.


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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Cat-man-do said:


> I just did a fast calculation. Assuming a 6V configuration and the coolest bin, XPH70 is listing 1710 lumen @ 2100ma.


Cat, which bin are you using to get these figures? The characterisation tool says something different:








Cheers


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

midnight_rambler said:


> Cat, which bin are you using to get these figures? The characterisation tool says something different:
> View attachment 1090760
> 
> 
> Cheers


I had to scroll all the way down to the bottom of the data sheet to even find the H4 group. Notice your listing calls it H4[970]. The "970" is reference to the lumen output @85°C. I always use the 85°C reference rather than the 25°C reference ( that you used ) because the 25°C is the temp at start-up laboratory conditions. The H4 group is listing a CCT of 2700K. That is a very, very warm ( color ) bin. CRI for the H4 is listing at 90 which is also very warm color wise. This explains why the lumen output you came up with is not very high. The warmer the color tint of the emitter, the less the listed lumen output. I would expect the output of an H4 to be very yellow in tint.

_Anyway the bin reference I used was at the top of the data sheet and the group listing is, "N4"._ It is the bin group with the highest rated lumen output. Oddly, the data sheet lists the N4 group at two different CCT. Listed as nominal 5000K at the top of the sheet ( the listing I used for easy white ) but if you scroll down more it lists the same N4 group at a nominal CCT of 7000K (?). Other than the listed CCT the other figures for the group listing are the same ( even the listed CRI ).

I referenced the lumen rating at 85°C because I feel it gives a better "typical output" reference since it is when the emitter is quite hot. In actual use the typical lumen output would be perhaps a bit higher if the emitter is not run so hard...so... if you wanted to add another 100 lumen to the figure I came up with that would be okay with me.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

arc said:


> ...*Picture that tiny little xhp50 Xeccon Z10 you and Archie reviewed last year. A little bigger reflector and cooling fins, drive it harder and it would have been great.* Better yet put an xhp35 in there, run it on 12 volts from a four cell series pack and use a driver with Ituo levels of efficiency. Now the driver is using less than half the current and making less than half the heat. Spend a couple bucks more on the emitter and get an 85 CRI version with a nice tint. In the end you have a low profile, light weight, high quality light with really good run times. That's the direction lights should be going, there's already lots of lights for the lumen whores. And good riddance to series parallel battery packs.


You have some astute observations. You need to hang out here more


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I can't believe you guys are running figures off h4 bin. N2 bin is available in high CRI neutral/warm tint.

That's why your numbers are coming back so low.

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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Cheers guys, thanks for the replies. Would be interesting to find out exactly what bin the light uses.
But still...a genuine 1700lm with good throw would be awesome as a head light.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There's no way of knowing what the bin is unless they tell you.

There is a lot of lights out there that are smaller and lighter likely that produce similar lumens that we know have good throw. Will be interesting to see what this light turns out to be.

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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> I can't believe *you guys* are running figures off h4 bin. N2 bin is available in high CRI neutral/warm tint.
> 
> That's why your numbers are coming back so low.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Actually I was quoting the "N2" figures in my initial post. If I had used the warmer CRI version of the N2 my numbers would of been a tad lower. Regardless I wasn't using any calculation that involved the max allowable forward DC current. That's because I doubt the KD lamp is using a driver that is putting out 4.8A. I used 4.4 just because it was easier to calculate using the graph. Still if the KD lamp is using a driver putting out close to 3A that would still make the lamp ~ 2000 lumen ( + or - 150 lumen depending on what bin is being used ). All depends on the bin of the LED's and what driver is being used to power the emitters. Otherwise I'm just doing Ballpark speculations.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ah OK I get you now.

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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

There's a bit more info about the xhp50 version, seems like the driver is putting out 2.2A http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025094....6500K-2500-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Bike-Light-Black
Is it likely they'll be using the same driver for the xhp70 version?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> There's no way of knowing what the bin is unless they tell you.


I've asked KD and they toldm they are using this 6500K Cool White -> http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S023969.z Unfortunately no exact tint info.

They are thinking to offer version with NW 3C tint -> http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024803.z or even M4 40H -> http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024805.z which is very likely higher CRI 80.

Similar they can use 3C tint in XHP5 verson of this light.

They might try to reprogram the driver and change modes.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Good news ledoman. Got my eye on one of those in a 4k tint!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

I'm quite tempted to jump on this XHP35 zebralight to replace my AA powered H52w helmet light.

H600w Mk III XHP35 Neutral White 18650 Headlamp


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Dirt Road said:


> Good news ledoman. Got my eye on one of those in a 4k tint!


Will see what they can do about it. I've just sent them an email telling that. I've also asked them to change those silly flashlight modes and replace them with just Lo, Mid, Hi and no Off mode in the mode cycle.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Placed an order for one of the xhp70 4000k lights. Should be interesting, still has the st1tty user interface like a flashlight. The tint should be quite good for me. I have a 3500k headlight with the xhp50 and it's a serious flooder.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

So they have already made it. If I understand correctly it is this one -> http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025885....4000K-3500-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Bike-Light-Black

Please report it back when you get it. Maybe we can find replacement driver like this: 4-Mode 6A LED Driver Circuit Board for 2 or More XM-L Bicycle Headlamp / Flashlight (7~18V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme It is 28 mm and yours might be of similar size.

Edit: boost driver linked above might not be suitable. It depends on version of PCB used (6 or 12V) for XHP70.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

It's strange KD lists the current for the xhp50 at 2.2amps. They don't list the current for the xhp70. Wonder if it's the same or more?


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

znomit said:


> I'm quite tempted to jump on this XHP35 zebralight to replace my AA powered H52w helmet light.
> 
> H600w Mk III XHP35 Neutral White 18650 Headlamp


If you get one of these you let me know how you like it. Zebralight lists the Hi output at 1100 lm and run time just over two hours. I'm liking the SC600w Mk III HI version ( straight torch ) which is suppose to also operate for over two hours on high. Both are using the XHP35 so I'm having a hard time figuring how they come up with a 2hr run time on high seeing that the set-ups normally have a temperature control circuit that moderates the current once the lamp gets hot. All torches get hot when on high so I doubt these are maintaining 1100 lumen for two hours +. Now if these_ can_ actually maintain near 1000 lm for two hours on one 18650 cell....that would be BLOODY AWESOME!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

deleted, duplicate post


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Its PID controlled so I guess it will drop down pretty quickly to limit the temperature when sitting still, so longer run times... On a bike there will be much better cooling and consequently shorter runtimes.

_High:
H1 1126 Lm (PID, approx 2.2 hr) 
H2 580 Lm (PID, approx 2.8 hrs)
...
Light output are ANSI out the front (OTF) values. Runtimes tested (and parasitic drain estimated) using ZL634 batteries. Runtimes of the two PID controlled levels (1126Lm and 580Lm) vary greatly with ambient temperature and air circulation._

Just looking for some unprotected NCR18650Bs (protected wont fit)that will ship to NZ.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

znomit said:


> Its PID controlled so I guess it will drop down pretty quickly to limit the temperature when sitting still, so longer run times...* On a bike there will be much better cooling and consequently shorter runtimes. *
> 
> _High:
> H1 1126 Lm (PID, approx 2.2 hr)
> ...


Yep, my thoughts entirely...but my point is the temp control will probably still limit the output. Even when moving a torch will still get hot. Would be interesting to see one of these in action. Too expensive for me to buy to just sit on a shelf most of the time but I'd still love to have one.

Good luck with the battery search. I don't know what the policy is in NZ for importing Li-ion batteries but if it's like the AU laws then you might have problems getting something shipped in. Lots of batteries offered on fasttech, free shipping world wide.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Yeah no battery shipping from Fasttech or Gearbest. :madman: :madmax:


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

znomit said:


> Yeah no battery shipping from Fasttech or Gearbest. :madman: :madmax:


Yep, Li-ion Nazis, you got to hate um'. Things will likely get tougher here too in the states. Just last week it was in the news that anyone owning a Samsung Galaxy Note 7 smart phone were being instructed to power down their phones before boarding a flight. That's because there were several cases of the phone's batteries spontaneously catching fire. That was enough for the FAA to step in to limit the use of the Note 7's on planes.

Too bad the Airlines haven't taken a lesson from the old Star Trek series. In one particular episode someone takes a hand phaser and puts it on overload in an attempt to kill someone. Supposedly if it explodes it will take out a couple decks. Kirk finds the phaser while talking to one of the intended victims. He rushes it out to the outer hall where their is an emergency disposal port. He shoves the phaser into the disposal port, seconds later the phaser explodes outside of the ship. Yep, would be nice to have something like that on a plane. Of course this might not work so well if over CA. Exploding battery lands on ground and causes wildfire. Okay, maybe just some sort of insulated box that is vented to the outside, that could work. Yep, build that, patent it, sell it to the airlines and become a millionaire, that could work. ( Note to anyone that does that....you OWE ME! .........*cough*....anyone know where I can buy some of those ceramic tiles used on the space shuttle....:ihih:


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Gearbest will ship batteries for $19 to the U.S. I think I'll stick to RMM.


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## MaximusHQ (Aug 6, 2007)

znomit said:


> I'm quite tempted to jump on this XHP35 zebralight to replace my AA powered H52w helmet light.
> 
> H600w Mk III XHP35 Neutral White 18650 Headlamp


That should make a nice helmet light. The difference in output and runtime from the H52w to the H600w is enormous. I've used my Zebralight H600w mkII for a helmet light quite a bit lately and it does a fantastic job. I haven't felt the need to run full power actually on mine except for on a couple downhill sections. The ~600 lumen setting seems enough most of the time for my rides. I typically go riding for about 1-1.5 hours and use the unprotected 3500mah cells that zebralight sells for cheap. When used with a stock nitefighter bt40s it makes a good companion and shoots out well past the reach of the bt40s and the tints match up. I just ordered a few extra silcone mounts to make it easier to switch from helmet to headlamp. I now have 3 Zebralights , a H600w mkII, a H602w mkII, and a H52fw aa light. All wonderful and one or more get used daily whether biking, at work, hiking, or around the house.

I'm fighting the urge to get a sc600w mkIII hi. That would be fun to try on the helmet and for sure be an edc light for me. Ive bought lights that sit on a shelf before, but my Zebralights never sit still long enough to collect a spec of dust. My Lupines though sadly sit in their padded case mainly because they aren't neutral white and I really don't see a use for them any more. The same can be said of two sets of gloworm x2 lights. Sitting in a box and I've thought of sending them in for neutral white upgrades, but I am doing fine with my bt40s on the bars and h600w on the helmet so I don't see a reason really. I ride on the some of the same trails I used to ride with halogen lights maybe a couple hundred lumens so what I am using now is quite impressive in comparison.

A few things I have learned through the years. Cool white isn't for me, brighter doesn't necessarily mean better, bike light tech is changing quickly enough that it doesn't make a lot of sense for me to pay top dollar for a bike light (this doesn't mean buy cheap junk, buy smart), high end bike lights advertised as upgradeable are really likely only limited upgradeable so be aware, a bike light that doubles as an excellent headlamp and or flashlight is of more value to me then simply a bike light, and weight matters.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well back on topic. KD needs to get their sh1t together on this lamp. The xhp50 I got out of the gate is good. Possibly the budget buy of the week... UI IS UTTERLY TERRIBLE!. 
The mode button is nice and smooth, til you hit strobe/sos. I'm no expert but my eyes would say 15-1700lm. More throw than flood. But if it was scaled down, serious helmet light. I judged it against a bt21/wiz20. Close but very humid out. Nw always wins in all conditions anyways. The budget night rider will not necessarily like this one. My bt21 with spots has more flood (thx mole) but my 13yr old says it's a throw king. And white wall hunters, no issues with the crosshatch.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Dirt Road said:


> Well back on topic. KD needs to get their sh1t together on this lamp. The xhp50 I got out of the gate is good. Possibly the budget buy of the week... UI IS UTTERLY TERRIBLE!.
> The mode button is nice and smooth, til you hit strobe/sos. I'm no expert but my eyes would say 15-1700lm. More throw than flood. But if it was scaled down, serious helmet light. I judged it against a bt21/wiz20. Close but very humid out. Nw always wins in all conditions anyways. The budget night rider will not necessarily like this one. My bt21 with spots has more flood (thx mole) but my 13yr old says it's a throw king. And white wall hunters, no issues with the crosshatch.


So what's the prognosis Dr. Dirt...Is it heavy on the head?...a total thrower? Ah, good to hear no problem with beam artifacts but that is a surprise. I figure if it's only 15-1700 lumen the driver is only maybe putting out 2-2.2ma. Then again if this is the neutral white version it's hard to judge output with neutral white sometimes.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Dirt Road, could you please do a review of KD XHP lamp? I'm thinking about buying it, and it looks like it's good value for the money, but would like to see a bit more detailed review, if you have the time, of course.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I tried to ride with xhp50 light and it's too cool white for me. I think at 4k tint, it would be a decent light. It's pretty big and a bt40 looks small in comparison. Did not get even slightly hot, because of the massive size of the lighthead, and I don't think it's driven very hard either. Hard to judge beam pattern cause I hate cool white, all I see is blue, id go with the warmer tint offering xhp70. The user interface is crappy I would even hate a flashlight with this ui. I'm pretty spoiled as I have some great lights all in neutral white so as a budget light, it is ok.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Dirt Road said:


> Placed an order for one of the xhp70 4000k lights





Dirt Road said:


> I tried to ride with xhp50 light and it's too cool white for me. I think at 4k tint, it would be a decent light.


Wait, I thought you've ordered XHP70 4000K one?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Have not received the xhp70 4k yet. No tracking yet from KD so idk when I'm getting it.
I have a riding buddy that is getting it.And a KD pack as well. That way he doesn't trash my gw lights which he has grown too fond of.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Good, I'm interested in XHP70 4kk one, so when it arrives, coud you do a bit more in-depth review?

Thanks in advance


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I've got message from KD about BL-70 driver. They are going try to rewrite UI and make it:

"3-Mode (Lo > Med >Hi), hidden strobe (or maybe not to have). This driver has a thermal protection. When the temperature is reaching over 70 Degree, it will change to Med mode. The max. current is around 2.6A to 2.8A. And it appears at around 7.6V. "

I assume they have measured current at battery side. So this means it is driven at around 20W.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

That's great news about about a possible revamped driver, thanks ledoman!

But when I filled out and sent in the form under Product Subscribe, got an inscrutable Error message. Um, not that this feature has ever worked on KD...

Anyway sounds very promising.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Very nice! Looking forward to hearing more!

-Garry


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

KD xhp70 4000k arrived today! Nite ride tonight, hoping my riding partner likes it. Gonna give it a try first, mite be a good snow light with the warmer tint!


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Don't eat yellow snow.

And please post beam shots!


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Beamshot, review, and teardown if you have the time, please


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I will shoot some pics, I can tell just by some white wall comparos, that the tint is looking good. Rain is in the area, im going riding regardless!! bt21 on the lid, KD light on the bars. And a gloworm xs for backup.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

That's the spitit!


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well the rain proved to be nonstop but I had a chance to ride with the KD xhp70 4k.
I absolutely love the warm tint of this light. It makes my bt21 look cool white. That being said, I can't venture a guess at lumen output. Maybe 1500lm? Warmer tints seem to decrease perceived output. If my riding bud doesn't want this, Ill gladly keep it for my midfat winter rides. And I can duck behind the light for wind protection! It's freakin huge.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Looks like a good bit of flood while still throwing out there a bit. Beam looks good. 

-Garry


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Beam does look pretty nice. Like the sharp cut-off on the flood. A bit of black tape over the power button would help.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

ledoman said:


> I've got message from KD about BL-70 driver. They are going try to rewrite UI and make it:
> 
> "3-Mode (Lo > Med >Hi), hidden strobe (or maybe not to have). This driver has a thermal protection. When the temperature is reaching over 70 Degree, it will change to Med mode. The max. current is around 2.6A to 2.8A. And it appears at around 7.6V. "
> 
> I assume they have measured current at battery side. So this means it is driven at around 20W.


I hope they make that change soon. It's already dark on half my commute, and will soon be dark in both directions, so I'd order this thing yesterday if I could.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Probably not a good choice if you share the route with other users. Going to be dangerously blinding to anyone coming at you. Areas of Europe like Germany have already outlawed likes like these on roads and urban areas.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Looks like it has the typical ring between the spot and flood. Is that what U see in person.

Looks pretty bright tho.

MB


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Modes rewrite in this driver should happen in about week. They have had hollidays in China so this was delayed.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

The beam pattern is disappointing, but it's still better than my multi emitter bike light. This will help reduce the disorientating effects of a splotchy beam pattern. Hopefully the code rewrite in the next week will be available to ship very shortly after. Thanks for that update.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I would never put too much stock in beamshots taken with a cellphone. It's a poor interpretation of what is actually seen. I found the light to be fairly smooth with little to no hotspot. It's by no means perfect, but for $35, it will be worth the cash. My eyes have a hard time with cool white, but that may show more pattern deficiencies, but most likely have increased power.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Then the actual output may be a little higher than what we see from the beamshots from your cellphone. Still if you see a smooth transition from the flood to throw it doesn't mean there is an equal amount of light. And beamshots clearly support this because they show quite an opposite case. Anyway the beam seems useful though the light head seems big and maybe heavy itself.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Latest (and good) news on this light:

"The new version of KD-BL70 is ready. And i decide to use the AR-Coating Lens for the new BL-70 flashlight. And the LENs will be ready on next week. 

New version of KD-BL70
3-Mode: Lo > Med > Hi (it will keep cycle)
Double Click: Strobe
Long Press to Off
"

So it is getting better and more usable. Will let you know when it become avalaible.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Good news ledoman. my friend likes his even with the old funky user interface. I will be likely get an improved one, as the build seems pretty good and the tint is excellent in 4k xhp70.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

KD has released updated versions of this light. Newly programed driver and AR coated lens (front glass).

http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026105.z
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026104.z

Pictures are not yet updated, they are going to be next week.

I'll ask if existing users can get new driver and lenses for cheap.

Unfortunately I don't own this light, so can't say anything about it. Just hope it would be better now.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Very nice! Wishe I had the extra funds to buy one to try out myself. 

Wonder if KD is open to the idea of a custom light build (i.e. where GearBest is failing.)

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would not bet on KD either. Working with them on charger for very long time and .... you know. They are cooperative, but it takes time...


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

ledoman said:


> I've got message from KD about BL-70 driver. They are going try to rewrite UI and make it:
> 
> "3-Mode (Lo > Med >Hi), hidden strobe (or maybe not to have). This driver has a thermal protection. When the temperature is reaching over 70 Degree, it will change to Med mode. The max. current is around 2.6A to 2.8A. And it appears at around 7.6V. "
> 
> I assume they have measured current at battery side. So this means it is driven at around 20W.


It looks like they kept the reverse order of modes, which is okay, but I prefer low to high. I'll get one anyway. Thanks for the update.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yeah, I'll check that. I think their technichian took the easiest way and just cut off the rest of the modes from previous Hi > Med > Lo > Str > SOS 
I prefer low to high, too. Iti s better for the eyes adoption, at least.


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

Hi MTBR friends,

This bike light is in mode sequences: 
Lo > Med > Hi (It will keep cycle) 
Double click: Strobe
Long Press: On / Off

Our colleague will update the product picture asap. And the outlook is the same as the current once. The mode sequences is updating in this revised version.

Please refer to the newer version

BL70s White 6500K version
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026104.z

BL70s Neutral White 4000K version
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026105.z

Enjoy

Thanks


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

That's great! Any info on the CRI of these? Thanks.


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

andychrist said:


> That's great! Any info on the CRI of these? Thanks.


For the 4000K version, we choose to use the LED with min CRI 80+

For the 6500K vesrion, we choose to use the LED with min CRI 70+


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

banl said:


> Hi MTBR friends,
> 
> This bike light is in mode sequences:
> Lo > Med > Hi (It will keep cycle)
> ...


And the bike light has memory mode function (last mode memory)


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

Hmmm, not sure I'd exactly call 4000K 'Neutral White'. Chromacity regions 5A-5D is a bit on the warmish side for me but others may prefer.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

banl said:


> Hi MTBR friends,
> 
> This bike light is in mode sequences:
> Lo > Med > Hi (It will keep cycle)
> ...


This is great news. Nice to see that Kaidomain has decided to upgrade the driver and give the lamp a decent UI. This will definitely elevate sales of the product. Kudos to Kaidomain for taking the time to listen to the people who buy their products. :thumbsup:

The big question for me is, "What is the real lumen output of the lamp"? K/D lists the output at 3500 lm but I'm very skeptical that this lamp can actually output 3.5K lumen. Now if it can actually output 3K lumen I'd have to buy one just to mess around with. 
If I had to guess I'd guess it might output 2000-2200 lumen but I'm just pulling numbers out of the air seeing I don't own one. If these weren't so heavy I would already have one.



OverTheHill said:


> Hmmm, not sure I'd exactly call 4000K 'Neutral White'. Chromacity regions 5A-5D is a bit on the warmish side for me but others may prefer.


Yes, it might be a tad warmer but with the higher outputs should work very well.


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

Cat-man-do said:


> This is great news. Nice to see that Kaidomain has decided to upgrade the driver and give the lamp a decent UI. This will definitely elevate sales of the product. Kudos to Kaidomain for taking the time to listen to the people who buy their products. :thumbsup:
> 
> The big question for me is, "What is the real lumen output of the lamp"? K/D lists the output at 3500 lm but I'm very skeptical that this lamp can actually output 3.5K lumen. Now if it can actually output 3K lumen I'd have to buy one just to mess around with.
> If I had to guess I'd guess it might output 2000-2200 lumen but I'm just pulling numbers out of the air seeing I don't own one. If these weren't so heavy I would already have one.
> ...


My biggest concern is anyone matching the tint of this light with a helmet mounted light say. Most NW lights around at the moment seem to fall in the 3C range.

Maybe the warmer tints play better together rather than CW and NW but I've no experience of this. It does look a better light though with the revised UI.

I agree though Cat, according to my reading of the datasheet, you'd have to be driving the XHP at 5A to stand any chance of getting near 3000 lumens, always assuming you could keep the thing cool enough. I'd say 2000-2500 lumens would be more realistic as well.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Cat-man-do said:


> If these weren't so heavy I would already have one.


This is what exactly the reason that stopped me from buying it. The same body as many 7-9 "XMLs" and we can spot it already a long time here. I am waiting for something that brings some new ideas here and I don't mean a copy of big brands.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Banl, fantastic support. I haven't ordered from KD in over 3 years, and you just brought me back.

Ledoman, thanks for coordinating this.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

You are welcome. Hope it is more usable now with new mode arangement and AR coated lens. I don't own one, so I can't comment about its usability.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Double click to strobe - can someone who has this light comment on how fast you have to double click to get into strobe. I could see myself going from low to high with two rapid clicks and end up in the strobe mode. 

In my opinion it should be 2 sec hold to turn off and 5 second hold to get into strobe mode. 

Interesting light which may be a bit on the heavy side.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Battery weight is what kills me. I might just go all the way and get an electric bike. As it is, I'll already be riding with three 4x18650 battery packs in my frame bag. Weight of the lamp head isn't an issue if the mount is good, and I haven't been happy with the mounts on my lights.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Is strobe mode ~ 3000lm? :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

varider said:


> Double click to strobe - can someone who has this light comment on how fast you have to double click to get into strobe. I could see myself going from low to high with two rapid clicks and end up in the strobe mode.
> 
> In my opinion it should be 2 sec hold to turn off and 5 second hold to get into strobe mode.
> 
> Interesting light which may be a bit on the heavy side.


I doubt anyone besides mr. banl can answer that since the circuit was just updated few days ago. Hopefuly he will jump in and tell you that.


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## midnight_rambler (Sep 19, 2015)

Relax people. Based on my current KD order, you aren't going to be getting your stuff anytime soon. I placed an order for 2 x 18650 battery packs a month ago and ive still not received a valid tracking code. After 1 month my stuff may well still be in China.
Compared to DX, GB ... poor, very, very poor.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I ordered this light and it shipped with a tracking number the next day. Still on the boat.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

midnight_rambler said:


> Relax people. Based on my current KD order, you aren't going to be getting your stuff anytime soon. I placed an order for 2 x 18650 battery packs a month ago and ive still not received a valid tracking code. After 1 month my stuff may well still be in China.
> Compared to DX, GB ... poor, very, very poor.


Might not be their fault. Airlines might have confiscated it. It happens....or....the order is just back-ordered.. This happens with stuff like batteries this time of year.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

midnight_rambler said:


> .....Compared to DX, GB ... poor, very, very poor.


IME all the China sellers eff up on some orders sometimes. I've always had good service from KD, so-so from DX, and I'll never buy from GB again.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I've thought about buying 2 cell packs from them a couple times and can't bring myself to do it. Just because the chances of receiving it are so slim.

TBH the only place I order from is FastTech and Banggood anymore. The only 2 that haven't burned me. Actually neither has DX yet but they don't carry what I'm looking for half the time anyway.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Shipping issues happens more or less with all China sellers we use. It is just matter how and when. No rule there. I've just got battery pack from KD sent. True, I have asked to give me real tracking since the one on their site didn't work. As I'we wrote few times if you think something goes wrong, contact the seller. For KD we have here a member "banl" to be contacted directly, though he is not in the sales department, but still....

Now it would be better to stick with original thread topic, I think


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

So how is the throw on this light as compared to a BT40S? Thanks.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would expect much more throw than BT40S since the reflector is quite large, still it should have quite some side spill because of brute force lumens and relatively large led area. Of course I don't have one so this are just my expectations.

BTW, I found from KD message the current to the led should be: "around 2.6A to 2.8A. And it appears at around 7.6V". 
I think it ise measured at battery side, but don't know really.


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

midnight_rambler said:


> Relax people. Based on my current KD order, you aren't going to be getting your stuff anytime soon. I placed an order for 2 x 18650 battery packs a month ago and ive still not received a valid tracking code. After 1 month my stuff may well still be in China.
> Compared to DX, GB ... poor, very, very poor.


Hi friend,

You can PM me your order number or send an email to [email protected] for inquiry.

I think you guys know there is battery restriction in most airline shipping. There is also security checking for exporting package in China. Please don't be worried. We will take the responsible for all the package that is delivered failed or lost. Please don't hesitate to contact us. And i hope you can understand for us.


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

ledoman said:


> I doubt anyone besides mr. banl can answer that since the circuit was just updated few days ago. Hopefuly he will jump in and tell you that.


I am thinking how to describe the click actions.

You don't need to too rapid to click to enter the Strobe mode.

ON / OFF: It needs to hold around 3 secs

Maybe i will take an video and post it on youtube to let you know more clearly.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I got mine in Canada 28 days after ordering. I will hopefully try it out before the weekend.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> I got mine in Canada 28 days after ordering. I will hopefully try it out before the weekend.


Which did you order the 5-mode or the one with the new 3-steady mode UI? Is yours NW or cool white?..Would be great if you could find a way to take a picture of the beam pattern and post it.

I recommend that the first thing you do after you get it is to order a Go-pro adapter and GP mount because as heavy as this lamp is the O-ring type mount is likely not going to hold so well.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

It's got 3 modes and 2 strobe levels. Seems pretty heavy on my helmet but probably OK. I will try to take some photos soon.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Could you do a teardown as well?


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

This is compared to my Dinotte XML-3.


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Wow what a monster. But I saw they're 34 bucks and a 6800 batter was 29 I believe so for 63 bucks hard to go wrong.

Which XML-3 is that. The 1500 or 1700 lumen one. Would be interesting seeing a comparison between the 2 just to see how much brighter the new XHP is.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

1500 lumen. If the weather isn't total crap I'll take some photos tonight.


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## banl (Jul 10, 2016)

banl said:


> I am thinking how to describe the click actions.
> 
> You don't need to too rapid to click to enter the Strobe mode.
> 
> ...


Hi friends

Sorry for posing the modes arrangement video late.

I had taken an video to show the modes of the bike light.






Hope you guys will like it.

Ban


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

That's much better!!


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

banl said:


> Hi friends
> 
> Sorry for posing the modes arrangement video late.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the effort but really there's nothing in that video that's able to tell the potential buyer anything useful about the lamp. Obviously the camera can't even adjust to the intensity of the different modes at the distance you are using it. Stills would be more useful but only if it were possible to see the total spill. An outside beam pic or video would be more useful. I'd like to see how the lamp illuminates an object at around 200 ft. ( 61 m )


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Mine is on the way. I can't do better video unless there's an app that'll make my phone do manual video, but I couldn't find one. I can take a photo, and comparison, with manual exposure though.


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## four_bar_biker (Nov 13, 2016)

I'm really interested in this light, because I'm looking for a powerful handlebar light for quite a while now. These 5 to 8 Cree China lamps are really disappointing (pulling only 1,6A at 7,5V from battery in high mode they are worse than a 2-Cree quality headlight).

Does anyone have a Yinding or KD 2-Cree (http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S023773.KD-2-x-Cree-XM-L2-U2-4-Mode-2200-Lumens-Bike-Light-Black) light and could compare the light output of the KDLIGHT BL70s with these lights?


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Don't expect this to be more impressive than other lights. Sadly, all these lights tend to be very under driven. I'm sure it's possible to get much more light out if it if you're willing to do a little soldering to swap out the mcpcb, swap a chip, and put in thicker wires.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

I got mine in a couple of days ago, but haven't gone on a ride with it yet. Quick indoor test shows that it isn't difficult to accidentally go into strobe when switching modes. I don't think it's big, although consider that my primary light is a 3x xm-l. I ordered the 4000K tint, and while it seems warmer than I expected when shining it at a wall, I bet it'll look great outdoors on rides. I can't wait to see how well this light takes to mods.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Look forward to seeing what can be done with mods. Seems like light doesn't get very hot, I'm thinking that it could stand some more current. I'm still on the fence about ordering one for myself, I have wayyyy 2 many lights as it is. But the tint is about as good as it gets for me in 4k.....


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## four_bar_biker (Nov 13, 2016)

*Got mine today *









Photo shows the BL70s' beamshot (right) compared to a Yinding 2xCree XM-L2 (left) from Gearbest.

BL70s in 4000K has a really warm tint and the neutral white Yinding looks blueish beside.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Pretty much as expected. Maybe you should take a pictures with different exposures so differencies in spot intensity would be more visible. Anyway it is obvious BL70 has more intense hotspot and some sidespill which is tipical for bigger reflectors. 
Personaly I don't like that kind of beam profile for the bar usage regardles it produces a lot of lumens. I prefer more evenly distributed beam. Using properly designed TIR lenses would solve that issue. 

Tint by itself might be very good once you get used on it. It takes some time if you have been used on CW before.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Where can we get these TIR lenses?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I don't own this light so don't know what dimensions might fit. There are companies like Ledil, Carclo, Fresnel who produce some optics.

Led lighting - LEDIL - A WORLD OF INNOVATION | Ledil search shows 74 products of different dimension that might fit XHP70 leds. You may also search for optics for Cree MT-G leds which has very similar dimensions.


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## kitenteddy (Jan 4, 2017)

hi everybody.
Please tkke into account that I am severely visual impaired.
Nevertheless I am riding at night wiht my 3 wheels crosstrainer ( brand Freecross) using currently 2x nitefighter BT40s ordered at gearbest. They are mounted parallel on Helmet 8 weight is no issue for me) The main reason for the kind of mount based on my experience that for me and my handicap it is best if the trail or road should be not so much lightening directly in front of my wheels.

Now my questions:
anybody knows, how the bar mount of the BL70 is fixed on the light housing? I hope it is screwd with m4 srew like at the nitefighter bt40s. I would like to fix instead of the bar mount a gopro adapter like I did on the bt40s. I ordered the gopro adapter for bt40s at gearbest and they work well for me.

I would like to use may the additional bl70 to get more throw at app.60-70 ft distance. spill would bi not important but not as high. For a nice whide beam, which is important for me I use the bt40s with stock lens. Becaus of the parallel mount at helmet i got also a nice wide spot beam app. 7ft wide at app.30-35 ft., which is sligtly brighter as the rest of the beam, which is nearly perfect for me.
Because I will drive in a upright posture and my stand is app.1ft above the ground the angle for the light to shine on ground is very good for me. I tested also a setup with 1 bl40s on Helmet and 1 bl40 in a hight of a bar mount, but this is not as good for me. to much light from spill i naarrow distance and to much blending evenen depending on the ground reflection.

anybode can come up with some beam shots. Most interesting is throw at 50-60ft.

Someone has already measured up to now the real lumen. I would like to have the 3000 lumen , but from the data I am skeptic if the bl70s can deliver that .
Really nice would be a beamshot comparison between the bt40s and the bl70.

Hopefully you can help me to decide to order or searching for other light with biiger throw than the bt40s.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I don't know if modding is an option for you, but you could consider replacing the XP-G2's in the BT40S with XP-L HI's (the HI's will work with the stock optics). The XP-L HI is a throwy emitter, but I'd expect it would still yield a wide swath of light in the stock optic (not quite as wide as the stock XP-G2's). I can't comment on the BL70, sorry. I also see you're in Germany so I can't help you on the modding either. 

-Garry


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## kitenteddy (Jan 4, 2017)

garrybunk said:


> I don't know if modding is an option for you,
> -Garry


Thanks Garry, but modding is no option because of my handicap. My visi9on is only 2-5% on one eye. the other ist totally blind.
Whatever I am fine with the bt40s, but i like an additional throw from a additional light or if other lights has more and simialr flood like the bt40s, i will replace them. I know, that ist difficult to find and as we know, at the end everybody must try for themselve, which ist the best option. 
May in the near future, I will upload an Youtube video of my nightrides and real beamshots on the road with the parallel bt40s to make it more visual for anybody to understand my problem.
Jörg


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Attn: Kitenteddy*



Is glare that limits your distance vision + lack of throw the problem your having with the BT40 mounted low on your bike? If that's it you will probably have trouble with any wide beam that is symmetrical (round ) shaped. Possible solutions would be lights with several emitters positioned horizontally equipped with narrow angle optics or elliptical style optics that spread the beam horizontally but not vertically. This would allow you to aim the beam for distance while reducing the amount of light in the foreground and maintaining a wider beam. Makes the beam oval shaped like the attached picture.
Mole


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

Some fotos with the KDLight BL70s that just arrived at my home! 

Installation








2 pc Cateye Gvolt50 








Magichine MJ-858 (colortemp 6500K, I guess) 








Nitefighter BT40s (colortemp 5000K) 








KDLight BL70s (colortemp 4000K) 








Peace


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Very nice! Any chance to get some shots at much further distance? Do you know if your BT40S is an original version with the correct U3 chip (see BT40S thread with U3 issue)? I assume your photos are with manual camera settings?

-Garry


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

It's probably the original BT40s.

The camera is at manual (100ISO, 1/2 sek, A 3.5) Sony DSC HX20

Two more pictures from the road. Everything on (BL70S + 2*Gvolt50)

First is "Camera view" with the same settings as before and the second picture is manipulated to show how I see the light. Much wider and longer beam.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

So what are your impressions of the BL70 by itself? Nice smooth beam? Far reaching with wide beam? Which battery pack are you running it with?

-Garry


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Looks good Stark. Wish more light companies would option color temp with their lights!
4k is my sweet spot. Way too warm for da masses.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Guys, still no power figures after a couple of months?  I saw that LED doesn't sit directly on the body.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The picture I saw earlier in the thread it's right on the body directly, well the PCB for the LED is. That's all any light ever made is. PCB, thermal paste, main body.

Now if your thinking it's not black like the rest of the body, that's something they did right. Behind the PCB it's better not to be anodized. Better thermal path to the housing.



Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

garrybunk said:


> So what are your impressions of the BL70 by itself? Nice smooth beam? Far reaching with wide beam? Which battery pack are you running it with?
> 
> -Garry


Very smooth beam and in many ways similar to the BT40s, but stronger with more throw and more spill.
The color temperature of 4000K makes it a very pleasurable experience against the with snow for my eyes, as I experience it.

I like the simple user interface and the big button that are workable with gloves on! 

Peace!


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

garrybunk said:


> Which battery pack are you running it with?
> 
> -Garry


Kaidomain 4-cell for all the lights in my pictures except the Gvolt50.
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024442....uality-Rechargeable-18650-Li-ion-Battery-Pack

Peace!


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

The 3 power levels available.
I really like that the first level is dim enough not to be dazzling, so I can use the BL70s as my only light. This level will light up the road in front of the bike good enough when pointed slightly down.
The second one gives good enough beam when long runtime is more important.

























Peace!


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Cree has a new XHP50 on the way, wonder if KD will throw this in a light?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

It's not on the way, it's already here and KD even has them listed on their site: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026568.Cree-XHP50_2-J4-3A-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter

4 XP-G3 dies put together I believe. And "improvements to optical uniformity through secondary optics" per Cree's press release.

-Garry


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Damn I'm slacking, looks like the "+" will be missing from the beam pattern which is awesome!

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

Stark, coud you possibly do a BL70 teardown? A few people here already have BL70, but nobody did a teardown yet. Me, and probably a lot of other people here would like to see the driver, thermals and such


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

Thanks, it would be fun, but I'm not the right man for that mission.
I prefer to keep the lamp in one piece so long it's working perfectly. 

Peace!


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

No worries 

Just found similar, cheaper version of this lamp: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/USB...frontale-farol-bike-linterna/32737504719.html

Currently it's $28.5.


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

Seams to be cool white in color temperature and not neutral white as mine. 
It also has the old user interface starting on high and where you have to click through strobe modes, if I'm correctly.

Mine is Low - Mid - High and hidden strobe with double klick. 


Peace!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Correct. KD changed driver modes upon our request. Much better than before, not to mention nice 4000K led tint.


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

Great job! 
Without your effort this should have been a mediocre product.

Now it works perfectly for my needs!

Peace!


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

tigris99 said:


> The picture I saw earlier in the thread it's right on the body directly, well the PCB for the LED is. That's all any light ever made is. PCB, thermal paste, main body.
> 
> Now if your thinking it's not black like the rest of the body, that's something they did right. Behind the PCB it's better not to be anodized. Better thermal path to the housing.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


The mcpcb does not sit on the body directly. It is made of copper and thermal glued on a piece of aluminium that is fit into the body (not press fit). There is no thermal paste between this piece and body; very poor thermal management. So a dismantle and thermal adjustment is the first thing one must do.
The light has potential, but with some adjustments: Thermal paste, replace the wires from the driver to the led (way to thin), replace the power cord (ridiculously thin).


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

I have the 6500K version. It looks pretty neutral to me. I think the 4000K would be to warm for my taste.
I did a resistor mod by adding a 220mohm resistor in parallel with the existing resistors and, after replaceing the wires and adding thermal paste, it draws 4A in high mode.
The low mode is...well....low. It is useful when one rides in the city in order to be seen.
The medium mode is very bright and useful in most situations.
The high mode is now extremely bright and I shall use it only in very dark wood scenario.
The beam pattern is nice: wide and with enough throw. I use a diy 2s4p battery pack and, after one hour in high mode, I had 7.4V. So it's all good.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Can you post some pictures of internals and the driver?


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

ledoman said:


> Can you post some pictures of internals and the driver?


Oh, boy! I just put it back together and filled it with thermal paste. It will be a pretty messy job. But I'm waiting for a thicker silicon power cable to replace the exiting one and then I' ll post some pictures.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yeah, I know. I thought you might documented your work. Better later than never! None of the users above wanted to open the light to take the pictures. Would do it myself, but don't own that light.

And BTW, can it be opened from rear as well from front side? Can you unwind the silver part around switch button? If yes I was hoping the internal construction is solid, but you proved different. Where the driver sits? Very likely on the alu insert with the leds.


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

ledoman said:


> Yeah, I know. I thought you might documented your work. Better later than never! None of the users above wanted to open the light to take the pictures. Would do it myself, but don't own that light.
> 
> And BTW, can it be opened from rear as well from front side? Can you unwind the silver part around switch button? If yes I was hoping the internal construction is solid, but you proved different. Where the driver sits? Very likely on the alu insert with the leds.


Yes, it can be opened from the rear and from the front, remove the silicone switch cap and see the driver.
Then you can push the driver and Al piece outside. The Al piece is like a cup: the led is on the bottom and the driver is inside. The walls of the "cup" should transfer the heat to the body, but, without thermal paste, is kind of hard.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks. Yes I understand the "cup" which is same bad design from years ago. It is easier to produce. At least I hope there is enough surface on lip to transfer the heat away. I doubt it is transfered ower the "cup" walls. Tipicaly the gap there is to wide. Of course, thermal paste is neccesary to add as with most cheapo chinese lights.


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

*Images*

So I've finally managed to replace the power cord with a 1mm^2 one (18 - 17AWG) and I took some pictures. Sorry about the quality, I took them with the phone.


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

As you can see the surface for the thermal transfer is quite large. It is the best possible option next to a solid wall. With thermal paste added, heat transfer is very good.
With those three changes I've previously mentioned (thicker led wires, thicker power cord and thermal paste) I think this is a very good light for the price.
I like that there's a rubber seal between the cord and the body.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks for that. I looks better than I thought. 3 wires to the led is probably overkill, 2 should be sufficient, but 3 does no harm.
Do you have feeling how wide is the gap between led cylinder and the housing? Tipicaly it should be as small as possible. Thinner thermal paste layer has much better efficiency than thicker one. Thinking if there is enough room to insert some copper sheet. I'm using 0.1mm thick copper sheet where I can. Very likely you can still do it some time later. I've got copper sheets from Banggood.


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

The gap is not wide. The cylinder does not wobble it is fixed but not press fit. Thermal paste gets scrubbed when I press the cylinder into the body and then wipe the excess off.
I don't think there is room for copper sheet.


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## bobale (Sep 23, 2012)

This light looks pretty good. Driver FET and choke look beefy enough to withstand even higher currents than stock. Good, good.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Yeah, thanks for the pics!

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

yo9htz said:


> The gap is not wide. The cylinder does not wobble it is fixed but not press fit. Thermal paste gets scrubbed when I press the cylinder into the body and then wipe the excess off.
> I don't think there is room for copper sheet.


Then it is good. At the last picture it looks there might be some room for copper sheet. Of course it might just look so.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I could not see if the inductor had any adhesive or other attachment to the driver board. If it is attached by just its wires it is a likely failure point when vibration causes the wire to break. Should be glued down with hot melt glue or neutral cure silicone.

I see it will also be compatible with one of my Magicshine to GoPro mount adapters!


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Potting the driver is a good idea, but make sure you finish all planned wire and driver mods first! I need to start tinkering with mine before long nights return.


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## Tumep (Sep 1, 2017)

*Resistor Mod*



yo9htz said:


> I did a resistor mod by adding a 220mohm resistor in parallel with the existing resistors and, after replaceing the wires and adding thermal paste, it draws 4A in high mode.


Hello *yo9htz* ,

can you please tell me where I have to add the 0,22 Ohm resistor or where the current sensing resistors are?
Thanks for your help.

Jan


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

There are four resistors in parallel. You can solder yours over any one of them.
you do not have to put 0.22 ohm. That is what I had on hand. The smaller the resistance - the bigger the current. But that light is already pretty bright; all it needs is some thermal paste. I have modded mine because I have psychological issues.


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## Tumep (Sep 1, 2017)

Hello yo9htz,

thank you for your fast and detailed answer.

Jan


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## sokre999 (Sep 21, 2011)

Guys how many lumens you estimate this kd light has?
I have ssx3 and kd x2 helmet light and looking to get better handlebar light for mtb enduro rides.
Any chance KD XHP70.2 could get modded to have better output?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

sokre999 said:


> Guys how many lumens you estimate this kd light has?
> I have ssx3 and kd x2 helmet light and looking to get better handlebar light for mtb enduro rides.
> Any chance KD XHP70.2 could get modded to have better output?


I just took notice that KD released an XHP70*.2* updated version: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026105.KDLIGHT-BL70s-Cree-XHP70_2-Neutral-White-4000K-3000-Lumens-4-Mode-LED-Bike-Light-Black .

Sure it could be modded by adding/changing sense resistors, but I don't know that we know what current output this light should be limited to based on the heatsinking.

-Garry


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## sokre999 (Sep 21, 2011)

You think there is aftermarket optic for this light?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Highly doubt it. 

-Garry


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

What do you think the real lumen count is on an XHP 2 of this type.


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## TomasA (Jan 15, 2018)

Hello, I'm new to Mtbr-forum and I have found this thread. I got the new version with the XHP70.2 4000K version. 
My light has a solid wall where the LED is attached to. The LED driver is accesible from the other side. The driver looks the same as the earlier pictures. So it seems Kaidomain has improved on the housing.


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## TomasA (Jan 15, 2018)

Some pictures from the LED-side and the driver.
https://ibb.co/iGnewm
https://ibb.co/i93xhR
https://ibb.co/jhT2Gm
https://ibb.co/jn6pwm
https://ibb.co/cfYDNR


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Nice! Thanks for sharing the pics.

-Garry


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

How would you describe the beam pattern and throw?

Is the colour of the light uniform across the beam?


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## TomasA (Jan 15, 2018)

I would like to describe it Neutral to a bit more yellowish in the beam. I only think of it when I'm up close to an object. This is my first LED-light, but I compare it to my HID 55W with 4300K tint.
I hope my BT40s will arrive soon, so I can compare.


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## Stark (Apr 29, 2008)

Like this. 
But it's not completely dark in this picture.









Peace


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Stark said:


> Like this.
> But it's not completely dark in this picture.
> 
> View attachment 1178351
> ...


Like I've always said before, "Hard to tell anything about a beam pattern when done on snow". I do detect a bit of yellow in the far part of the beam. Too bad KD is not offering these in a more acceptable NW ( 4700-5000K ). If they did I'd be tempted to buy one of these to mess around with.

Anyway, I bet in total darkness it lights up the whole road. Gosh I'd love to ride on snow pack like that. I've only ridden my MTB on snow pack like that only once in my life and that was many, many years ago when Md. had ( days apart ) back to back 11" snow falls that year. That year even the main road in front of my building was packed with snow


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Cat-man-do said:


> Too bad KD is not offering these in a more acceptable NW ( 4700-5000K ). If they did I'd be tempted to buy one of these to mess around with.


It seems the lights have XHP70's in them and they are replacing them with XHP70.2. Last time i checked they had P2 binned 5000k in stock, maybe Ban would reflow one of them in for you if you ask him.

From what I have read on BLF the 70.2 tends to have a warm hotspot with colder spill. Dedoming them reduces that and throws much better with a minor loss of lumens. I have one of these lights and a six cell pack on order as well as two 3C emitters and a fresh can of toluene sitting at home. My modded Haikelite MT07 with it's great big orange peel reflector and a 4500K p2 emitter(not dededomed) puts a lot of light downrange at 6.5 amps and the beam is smooth. It heats up but not as fast as I expected at that power level.

2 amps at 5.75 volts produces 2000 lumens at 170L/W, running turbo at a rediculous 4000 lumens is probably still over 130L/W and not much over six volts. Should be a nice powerful light with lots of run time in regulation if the beam pattern is good.


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

They modified the body to have a solid wall behind the LED! Interesting! I wander if they all come like this or is some kind of lottery.


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## TomasA (Jan 15, 2018)

What would the best way to measure the current this lamp uses ? 
This would lead to a estimated lumen output ?


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

TomasA said:


> What would the best way to measure the current this lamp uses ?


Do you have a clamp meter?
If yes, you could desolder one wire from the LED, extend it and use clamp meter to get measurements. Job of 30 seconds .


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Or just put meter leads inline with desoldered wire & emitter connection. 

-Garry


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

yo9htz said:


> They modified the body to have a solid wall behind the LED! Interesting! I wander if they all come like this or is some kind of lottery.


I just received mine and it has a solid wall. There's a dab of thermal adhesive that makes getting the driver out a bit difficult.

20mm mcpcb for the emitter. No screws holding it in place, just more thermal adhesive gluing it in place. It takes a lot of heat to soften the adhesive enough to get it out.

Trying to get accurate power measurements isn't so easy. If I put my clamp meter on the positive and negative battery wires in both directions I get four different readings. Ballpark lumen output on medium is about 1200 lumens, and 2600 on high. Adding a 0.25 ohm resistor on top of one of the sense resistors bumps it up to 1450 and 3100. Low is really low, can't imagine it being more than a couple hundred lumens.

At stock power levels low and medium don't even show up on the Cree product characterization tool. I didn't like the 4000k emitters beam, the uneven colour distribution was a bit distracting. After a failed hot dedome I put a 5000k emitter in, much better. Its noticeably warmer than my Ituo XP3 yet they blend together quite nicely. If it's pointed at a wall the hotspot is on the warm side and the spill is a bit cool but its pretty nice outside. Lots of spill and a good size hotspot.

Good light for the money.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback and info. Agree - seems decent for the money.

-Garry


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## edvin_m (Mar 23, 2016)

arc said:


> I just received mine and it has a solid wall. There's a dab of thermal adhesive that makes getting the driver out a bit difficult.
> 
> 20mm mcpcb for the emitter. No screws holding it in place, just more thermal adhesive gluing it in place. It takes a lot of heat to soften the adhesive enough to get it out.
> 
> ...


I recently bought one of these but I find the output a little low. I have a stronger Magicshine on my handlebar and the colder light from it kind of "eats up" the warmer BL70s which gives the illusion of very little actual light out on the trail. Very annoying.

Any chance you got a photo of where to add the resistor? Or if I open it up and take a photo could you mark where? Hoping a little extra power will fix my issue


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Mixing cool and nuetral/warm more power isnt going to fix that. Going to have to more or less match emitter tints for it to play well. Better off getting rid of the cool white light truly.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## yo9htz (Mar 3, 2017)

edvin_m said:


> I recently bought one of these but I find the output a little low. I have a stronger Magicshine on my handlebar and the colder light from it kind of "eats up" the warmer BL70s which gives the illusion of very little actual light out on the trail. Very annoying.
> 
> Any chance you got a photo of where to add the resistor? Or if I open it up and take a photo could you mark where? Hoping a little extra power will fix my issue


There is a photo a few replays back in this thread.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

edvin_m said:


> I recently bought one of these but I find the output a little low. I have a stronger Magicshine on my handlebar and the colder light from it kind of "eats up" the warmer BL70s which gives the illusion of very little actual light out on the trail. Very annoying.
> 
> Any chance you got a photo of where to add the resistor? Or if I open it up and take a photo could you mark where? Hoping a little extra power will fix my issue


There are three R250 and an R350 resistors in a row beside the inductor, just lay a resistor on top of one of them and solder it on. Probably have to lift the inductor up to do it. Once you are happy with the way its working the inductor should be glued in place.

The magicshine and this light will not work well together, the colour temperatures are too far apart. I doubt it's much brighter, that's just the glare messing with your eyes. You will see more out on the trail and distinguish things quicker with the Kaidomain. Unfortunately the tint is on the too warm side of things, the hotspot almost looks like 3000k to me. The 5000k emitter I put in seems closer to 4500k. Maybe the reflector is affecting the tint or it could be the emitter is being run below its optimum power level causing tint shift.


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## edvin_m (Mar 23, 2016)

yo9htz said:


> There is a photo a few replays back in this thread.


I've been following this thread but I completely missed those photos. Thanks!



arc said:


> There are three R250 and an R350 resistors in a row beside the inductor, just lay a resistor on top of one of them and solder it on. Probably have to lift the inductor up to do it. Once you are happy with the way its working the inductor should be glued in place.
> 
> The magicshine and this light will not work well together, the colour temperatures are too far apart. I doubt it's much brighter, that's just the glare messing with your eyes. You will see more out on the trail and distinguish things quicker with the Kaidomain. Unfortunately the tint is on the too warm side of things, the hotspot almost looks like 3000k to me. The 5000k emitter I put in seems closer to 4500k. Maybe the reflector is affecting the tint or it could be the emitter is being run below its optimum power level causing tint shift.


The Magicshine I'm using, a MS-628C, draws 4.12 A on high mode, the Kaidomain 2.95 A so the Magicshine should output more lumens. But yeah, the subjetive side of the view is probably more important in this case  If I want to bump the current up to, say ~4.5 A, do you have any idea what resistor I should solder on? It's been a couple of years since I fiddled with electronics so my knowledge is a bit rusty.

I also agree that they make a terrible combination color temperature wise  , I plan too exchange the Magicshine next season


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

edvin_m said:


> I've been following this thread but I completely missed those photos. Thanks!
> 
> The Magicshine I'm using, a MS-628C, draws 4.12 A on high mode, the Kaidomain 2.95 A so the Magicshine should output more lumens. But yeah, the subjetive side of the view is probably more important in this case  If I want to bump the current up to, say ~4.5 A, do you have any idea what resistor I should solder on? It's been a couple of years since I fiddled with electronics so my knowledge is a bit rusty.
> 
> I also agree that they make a terrible combination color temperature wise  , I plan too exchange the Magicshine next season


I thought those things only made about 1600 real lumens, so the Kaidomain probably beats it by hundreds of lumens. It also has a lot of spill, so its probably wasting some of them. Its one of the reasons I want to try dedoming the led. There's also electrical and optical efficiency to consider.

Cree Product Characterization Tool You can compare them if you like, just be aware the program assumes that if there is more than one led it puts them in series.

I measured 2.75 amps unmodified, our meters are probably reading differently. 4.5 amps is no problem for the led but the driver may not like it. You will have to check the SS34 diode and the inductor for excessive heat. It might also cause the light to not switch modes properly and the bigger voltage spikes may cause the low voltage protection to not work. Probably best to get ten .25 (R250) and add one at a time and check for proper operation. They are cheap and easily lost, they like to pop out of place and stick to soldering irons too.

Mine seems ok at 3.3 amps but I haven't played with it much, probably won't get back to for a while. Been using up all my spare time studding a set of tires with Kold Kutters and then riding ice before it all melts. Now its getting cold again and there's some frozen swamps and ponds I want to explore.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Isn't that SS34 diode only rated for 3amps? I'd recommend replacing it with a 5A rated one - an SS54?

-Garry


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Isn't that SS34 diode only rated for 3amps? I'd recommend replacing it with a 5A rated one - an SS54?
> 
> -Garry


3 amps average current.

It only has current going through it after the fet opens and the inductor discharges through the led. I have no idea what the average current will be but it will be heating up along with the inductor and the led. I think the light will step down due to heat before it gets damaged. 4.5 amps is getting close to 4000 lumens, I'm not sure he'll get there.


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

*BL70S disassembly question*

I recently disassembled this KDlight as the power supply wire was not anchored in the housing and was exposing the red and black core where it enters the housing through a rubber grommet.
In order to do this I had to stabilize the rear switch cover to turn the housing and loosen the cover. 
Is there a specific tool to fit into the 4x scalloped areas to prevent any damage to the switch cover?
I scratched the cover using my splitring pliers to hold it down securely (see pic below) for want of any more suitable tool!
After disassembly I tightened a small cable tie onto the power supply wire so it's securely anchored inside the housing.
There's a solid metal wall behind the emitter, the pcb(driver) is wedged in place and then covered with a wide, hard plastic round ring. There's no O-ring but there was no evidence of water ingress despite some use in heavy downpours.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

goatman said:


> Is there a specific tool to fit into the 4x scalloped areas to prevent any damage to the switch cover?
> I scratched the cover using my splitring pliers to hold it down securely (see pic below) for want of any more suitable tool!


Normally I use wrist watch opening tool for that task, like this one:

https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/adjustable-wrench-open-tool-watch-back-case/405423015.html


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

Thanks for the good advice regarding the watch tool!


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

Hi everyone,
It's been awhile since last time I was looking at light threads and now that i did again I got excited 

I recently lost my UltraFire which I need to point out - served me great for the past 3-4 years as my single any purpos light. Unbelievable for this small money!!!

After my research is to an end I am about to order 2 lights this time (as I experienced the need of helmet one on the trails). I am looking at the kaidomain indeed with BL2S as my main one and the BL70S for the helmet. Depending on the feeling how bright they are I might be looking to some mods to them. As per the tint I am more of a cool light fan so I will be getting the 6500k versions.

One question keeps bothering me is why the BL70S is not coming with the resistor added from the factory so it will give optimal lumens output out of the box ... would have been great. If you are going for such bright light you would like it powerful indeed, right.

Respect!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I believe that BL70S will be awfully heavy for a helmet light. What are you doing for batteries? 

Beware that KD's shipping has been long waits with days or weeks before items actually ship. 

-Garry


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You might try here (KD Supplier?): 
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/708513

-Garry


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

I am looking at getting 2 x 6500mAh batteries from KD too.

And yes you are right, this BL70S is pretty heavy with its' 186g alone vs. 70g of the BL2S!!! Maybe I can use them the other way around and have the BL2S on the helmet.

Yet, remains the question how will i mount the BL70s on the bike. This heavy weight will not hold fine on trail jumps with the original O-ring mounted.


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> Beware that KD's shipping has been long waits with days or weeks before items actually ship.
> 
> -Garry


I ordered my second BL70s off the new Kaidomain website after the light was added again on 15/07. For some reason the new website is still being populated with stock from the previous version. I requested them to add the BL2S and it's back on the site as well.
My light was delivered to my Chinese forwarding address today 18/07.
There are still some hiccups with the new website - my order still says "processing" but their customer service has been spot on and they have replied to all my email enquiries so far.
The previous light I ordered in June took much longer before it was shipped though.

The BL70s is more suitable as a bar light for sure; it needs a sturdy clamp and I agree with Garry - would not use it on my helmet.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Beware that KD has been one of the worst shippers of battery packs. Either never get them, or take forever.

-Garry


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

To add to what Garry said above: Be aware of the shipping costs of Li ion battery packs - I was quoted U$60 for DHL for 1x 4 battery and 1x 6 battery pack off Kaidomain. DHL is the only shipping option allowed.
Depending on where in the world your battery packs land there could also be some hefty DHL handling/admin. fees and possible customs duties to be paid!


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

gulliverbg said:


> Yet, remains the question how will i mount the BL70s on the bike. This heavy weight will not hold fine on trail jumps with the original O-ring mounted.


You might not have this problem. This is my only bike headlight that stays where I put it. Granted, I'm not doing jumps, but I also don't have a suspension. Since it's possible the mount is the reason for this, here's the Minora mount I'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3NALZ8/


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

garrybunk said:


> Beware that KD has been one of the worst shippers of battery packs. Either never get them, or take forever.
> 
> -Garry


Update: it's been almost 2 weeks since i placed my order with KD and just now I have confirmation it is ready to be shipped (meaning with DHL now) ... who knows how many (4) weeks it will take to arrive in europe + customs processing time etc.

Only now I realized I ordered the lights and the batteries but not charger for the batteries. I have some old charger but not sure if connectors will match.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Very likely will do. I mean if you have older 8.4V Li-ion charger for bicycle packs. There is common 5.5 x 2.1 mm jack used.


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

*KDLITKER BL70S & KD BL2s first look*

It might've taken almost 2 weeks for KD to prepare my items for shipping but I need to share I am impressed with the DHL delivery time for this KD order!!! Since it was with DHL office in HK it only took 1 (one!!!) day to be delivered to my door (8400 km away from Honk Kong) ... speechless.

First impressions:
BL70s is relatively big and heavy light especially compared to the BL2s.









Indoor both lights at High appear to be very bright same to the eye like the UltraFire I use to have. (All photos here are with same iso100 & 1/125 settings of the camera.)
- Beam of both looks the same from 3 meters to wall distance.
- Tint of the bin should be the same but on the BL2s tend to be slightly "bluish". 
- At High where the power output should be equal (100%) BL70s might be slightly brighter (to my eyes) over the BL2s and more noticeable on the photo.
- At Mid both light perform the same. 
- At Low as you will notice on the photos the BL70s is really dark even compared to the BL2s but I assume this has to do with the % of power output setting. I guess in this mode BL70s will do fine as a main light for long rides to preserve battery power at Low.























I was kind of expecting to have the BL70s much brighter over the BL2s which is not the case. I might try to do the resistor mod to get more lumens out of it but at the same time don't want to cut on half battery run time (still 10-20% faster drain is acceptable I guess).
I still need to disassemble both lights to see if any thermal paste needs to be added.

Batteries look fine too and are fitting just fine with the connector of the old charger I have.

On a side note as I ordered 3 units of the BL2s one of them tend to respond on button clicks after 2nd or 3rd attempt in order to switch between modes
Also the BL2s tend to heat up very quickly at high (haven't kept it long enough to see of thermal protection will auto switch it to mid or low).

Run time with battery, actual beam, overheating, etc. ... I will need to test outdoor hopefully next week and be able to report back.


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

Thanks for the photos and detailed comments 

The BL2s is available in 3 colour tints on Kaidomain: 6500, 5000 and 3000K - which ones did you order?
My personal observation is that the cooler white tints look brighter to the human eye out on the trail due to the reflections off the trail environment; and also the relative inability of the human eye to deal with the cool white colour at that intensity.
The BL70S I use is the 4000K tint which has warm white colour, closer to daylight and thus allows the eye to see more detail in the trail and environment.

Looking forward to your outdoor testing and glad the DHL worked out so well!


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

@goatma, I have ordered both BL70s and BL2s in their 6500k version but you are right indeed. The BL70s has a warmer white tint but still it doesn't feel irritating to have them running at the same time.

I had a chance to go out in the park and give a try of both lights in the dark. I have to say although they are nearly equal in brightness they are very different in feel and I like them both very much.









The BL70s is definitely a bar light attached to the bike not only due to the heavy weight but also how it distribute light. It concentrates light very well and trough to a far distance while it also does illuminate just in front of the front wheel. In Lo mode it is not so bright but just enough so that you can see your way (2-5 away) in a very dark environment or to be seen in urban area.









That is not so much the case with the BL2s. It is very light in weight, suitable for helmet but it also gives somehow more focused beam and not diffused around it.
Here both lights are running simultaneously:















Both compliment each other very well, definitely better if they would've been 2 of the same kind.

There was not a single moment that I would've need any more extra luments so from that perspective no disappointment. Still just for the sake of doing it I might try to boost the BL70s with resistor mode at some point.

My ride time was not sufficient to test run time in different modes nor the batteries were fully charged. For the 30 min of testing time in the different modes I didn't notice significant overheat on any of the light. The BL70s seems to be dealing better with heat management.

Modes:

The BL70s:
- from light off position single click will turn the light on to the last mode before shut off (except strobe)
- from light on position single click will bring you to the next mode from the 3 (lo-mid-hi)
- from light on or off position double click will enable strobe (hi) mode
- from light on position in any of the 4 modes holding the button will shot off the light
+ when light connected to the battery but turned off, no indication light is on
+ when light connected to the battery but turned on, indication light is on (green for charged above 40% and red for below 40%
as per specs)

BL2s:
- from light off position single click will turn the light on to Lo mode
- from light on position single click will bring you to the next mode from the 3 (lo->mid->hi) followed by off after hi mode.
- from light on or off position click and hold will turn the light into strobe mode. If single click again will bring you to SOS mode. Next click will turn the light back to the initial mode (lo, mid, hi or off depending on what was the last mode before activating strobe)
+ when connecting to the battery the light will blink once (hi)
+ when light connected to the battery and turned on or off, indication light is on (no observation yet)

*_Camera Samsung SM-N950F 
Aperture F1.7 Focal length 4.30 mm 
Flash No flash White balance Auto 
ISO 200 Exposure time 1/15 
Photos taken in Hi->Mid->Lo modes of both lights in bottom down order_


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

Thanks for the beamshots @gulliverbg!

The 4000K tint Cree XHP70.2 BL70S light I use has a much warmer tint compared to the 6500K tint on your beamshots.
Personally I wouldn't go for the 3000K tint (the other option)
I haven't felt a need for more lumens on the trail as yet: BL70S on the bars and Nitefighter BT21 on the helmet with 10deg. TIR optics.

I've ordered two BL2s lights in the 5000K and 3000K tints and will compare them to the BL70S 4000K tint once I receive them.
I'll also take a look at their spot pattern compared to the Nitefighter BT21


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Seems a resistor mod on the BL70S would be beneficial to bring the low mode up to a more useable level (though then Medium & High also increase).

-Garry


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

Garry I agree, the low mode on the BL70s is not useful on the trail.
I'd be keen to try that resistor mod. myself.
How the higher output will affect heat management (in High setting) is hard to say.


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## goatman (Nov 14, 2004)

*Resistor and wire mods*

Thanks to everyone for all the informative pics in the thread! :thumbsup:
I've fitted a bar clamp to my BL70S and made a tool to make the process of unscrewing the rear cover a bit easier.
I may still pot the driver and add some gasket maker to seal the rear of the light.
The power supply wire is 22 AWG and from the plug to light body it's around 73cm long. That's way too long for my purposes!
I'll probably leave the driver alone for now as I don't have a need for more lumens except in the low setting.


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## Craig24 (Nov 1, 2017)

Thanks for the write up, looks good. Just ordered the BL2s myself in 4000k to pair with a BT40s look like it should do the job.


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## gulliverbg (Sep 24, 2014)

Hi, I just wanted to report that after couple night trail raids i am in love with my new lights.
I am not able to report exact run time with battery on the different modes but both lights last full hour on high and another 1 hour on low and mid depending on the conditions on the road without showing indication for low battery.

There was no overheating of any of them (outside temperatures in the range of 10C - 22C depending on the altitude during the ride).

The actual experience with the lights was awesome ... so much light that I wouldn't need more and it wouldn't make difference if there was more. I could've hardly tell there was difference in visibility even when i was turning one of them off just to compare them.

The BL70s tends to slightly lean forward due to its weight and the O-ring mount not being tight enough to hold it on during aggressive/downhill riding. It may require some modification of the mount. I was actually considering this mount for it.

As we mentioned the BL70s low mode is kind of dark. For me though it turns out that it is actually handy on very dark environment where the BL2s low mode appears to be too bright. 
Hands down, with BL70s on the bar and BL2s on the helmet it is the perfect combo for me.









Being very hard to tell by the photo, it was complete darkness, downhill trail, another 30km ahead of me to the city. The tree (looking like moose horns  ) is about 20m away and it reality felt as bright as in front of me.

Have fun!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks for reporting your feedback! Glad to hear they are working out for you.

-Garry


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## Kadath (Mar 13, 2017)

Sorry to bump up an old thread but there's not much info floating around for the BL70s. 

Is this lamp a good choice a for a good low-cost floody bar light or is there a better alternative in this price range?
Any long-term feedback from users of this lamp? 
What is a good bar clamp for this light?
Did anyone find a lens to make the light a bit more floody?
Do you guys know if the tint from XHP70.2 emitters is similar than what has been reported so far? i.e. the 4000K is a bit warmer than usual for 4000K?


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Haven't received mine yet but upgraded an old Magicshine style single emitter style lamp with an XHP70.2 4000K and it's fantastic. Super bright and color warm without being yellow - same as BL2S. I'd say it's actually a very well balanced neutral white.

Only problem is that with [orange peel] reflectors you get faint rings in the beams. With cool white lights these rings will all be shades of blue but with neutral white or warm temperatures the rings separate into alternating blue and sickly yellow. Pretty much solved the problem on my MJ clone with a couple Wide Angle lenses (from Action-LED Lights) aligned 90º from each other. Creates a square or diamond shape beam depending on the angle they are set in the bezel, not exactly floody but pretty wide for a spot and no discernible color separation. Not sure if they will fit in the BL70S though and what with everything happening in HK right now, don't expect to receive my order anytime soon (still marked as processing, not shipped.)


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## Kadath (Mar 13, 2017)

How is the beam pattern for your XHP70.2 with the smaller reflector of the magicshine? I also have a MJ808 clone, I might be tempted to do that if the beam pattern is nicer than with the BL70s. 

I would kinda prefer to get the BL70s in stock form if it's good enough. I'd like to find a lens that widens the beam however.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well it’s been quite a while since I ran the Magicshine clone without the two Wide Angle lenses from Action-LED, but as I recall it had quite a hot spot and a lot of useless spill. But I am old and senile so don’t take my word...

Of course you could upgrade your clone as I did and run only one of the Wide Angle lenses if you just want a super wide beam. Again, don’t remember whether the single wide lens ameliorated the color separation at all, but the two of them together really does the job. Will try taking a beam shot for you tonight, happen to have that lamp set up on a new bike I’m working on.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Kadath said:


> How is the beam pattern for your XHP70.2 with the smaller reflector of the magicshine? I also have a MJ808 clone, I might be tempted to do that if the beam pattern is nicer than with the BL70s.
> 
> I would kinda prefer to get the BL70s in stock form if it's good enough. I'd like to find a lens that widens the beam however.


Well somehow after installing the XHP70.2 in my Magicshine clone, only one of Action-LED Lights Wide Angle Lenses would fit inside the bezel, whereas I could squeeze two at right angles into my other clones. But with the single wide lens the clone actually has a decent beam pattern and not very noticeable color separation, if any. Only problem with all the clones I own, they've only three settings: High, Low, and Strobe. High mode will probably drain your batteries pretty fast (though I haven't tested a full cycle yet), and Low is strictly "limp home."

OTOH Kaidomain's BT70S has three levels of output and hidden strobe, so can still light your path acceptably without sacrificing runtime. Also the beam is pretty wide as is, don't really see any need for improvement.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Sorry but my iPad could not capture the entire panorama produced by either of the two lamps. Magicshine clone with XHP70.2 emitter and wide angle lens top, KDLITKER BL70S bottom. Both on High.

Magicshine Clone XHP70.2 Action-LED Lights Wide Angle Lens by andyXchrist, on Flickr

KDLITKER BT70S by andyXchrist, on Flickr

Must also apologize for the stupid shadow across the BT70S pic, cable housings still getting in the way of the lens - gotta go tie them down some more. Not to mention the exposure on the Magicshine clone pic is not quite right, kinda got a little bleached out in front of the bike. In actuality the BL70S might be a tad brighter than the MagicShine clone with the same emitter, obviously its driver is beefed up. Still they come surprisingly close and with its wide angle lens the clone does cover a little more area and very evenly, without any hotspot.

Oh and I should explain, have the KD mounted to the top of the chopper bars and the MJ clone on the base so their angles of attack are a bit different:

RANS Stratus XP New KDLITKER BL70S XHP70.2 by andyXchrist, on Flickr


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Wow! They both look great! Have I missed some posts from you modding that MS clone with the XHP70.2? I didn't know you were a modder. Can you link me to details on that mod? How does that clone handle the heat? I would expect there to be thermal issues with that XHP70.2 running that hard in that clone. 

Thanks,
-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-...er-magicshine-mj808-1091641.html#post14068374

I'm not really a modder, Garry - wouldn't screw with a circuit board or try to reflow emitters. But it's easy just to swap them out when premounted to stars, that kind of soldering I can do. 

You're right, the old thermal paste in the MJ808 clone was all dried up so I'll have to replace it when I get the time; right now my work desk is sorta backed up. Also the base of the XHP70.2 demanded a different gasket from the original Cree there so I ordered the appropriate ones from Kaidomain. Anyway because that clone only runs on High or Low, I haven't used it for extended periods for fear of burning it out (Low is useless of course.) Not that I've noticed it getting hot to the touch... but it probably should. Then again the XHP70.2 supposedly delivers 180lm per watt so who knows.

Have only had the BT70S a couple days now and it's been very misty out after dark so both lamps have had the luxury of weather related cooling. Plus, been wearing touch screen gloves to take the pics; as they're necessarily tight I only bother to take them off once I'm back indoors so haven't handled the lamps with my bare hands a whole lot.

Now I gotta find an MJ808 clone with H M L modes, dunno if such exist.


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

@Garry

if you are looking fo a easy to mod light, check the Xanes XL03, ist sold on other brand names to.
And cost ~7$.
https://www.banggood.com/LED-Bike-L...-IPX6-Waterproof-images-p1079954-q210796.html

it is a 30 x30 mm 6061 Aluminium body with ~ 50 gramms.
This light have alot of coolingfins and can easy handle with a little bit airflow ~10 Watt Heat and more.
Its one of the smalles Lights on the market with that you can make serious nice lights.

from the front to the LED board it have 4 screws and from the rear to the driver to.
so its easy to open and close, and driver+LEDs board can easy be removed.

I buy ~20 of this lights and make alot of different and great mods from it for some friends.

Single XHP50 and single XHP70 LED or quad nichia 219C and quad XHP35 HI, my last mods was with trible SST-20 LEDs and anduril based drivers.

Alot of people rebuild some of my mods coz its easy to do.

The first XHP70 based version what i have made was with an XHP70.2 on a 20mm board and a H1-A driver from kaidomain.
the basic lens from the light only works wit 5050 LEDs so i use a ~18mm OP reflektor from kaidomain.

The H1-A driver runs in some settings at ~96% effizenz so absolutly fantastic.

for example in medium setting the H1-A draws from the battery ~5,5 Watts and the XHP70 generates you wit that low amount ~900 Lumen in the front.

i have with a 2x 21700 5000mah=10000mah 3,7 Volt battery pack ~7 Hours of runtime in this setting!!!

here some pics.
The basic light is a ~350 lumen 7500Kelvin light.
i make a 4000K XHP70.2 from that.

left XHP70 right original 









basic light beam









XHP70 beam ist very floody









more power









or here a XHP50.2 5000 kelvin with spotty optics.









The KD2 from kaidomain i moded to with 2x XHP50.2 and drive them up to ~4000 lumens.



andychrist said:


> Then again the XHP70.2 supposedly delivers 180lm per watt so who knows.


All LEDs deliver lumen per watt on current based.
Same XHP70.2.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks lostplaces, I've checked out your mods on this light on another forum previously.

-Garry


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## lostplaces (Aug 21, 2019)

If i remember right the BT70S have a ~3 Amp driver."~2600 lumen"

for here size it will not be a problem to Replace the driver with a 5 Amp one to get 4000 Lumen+ output.


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## Ottoreni (Jan 27, 2004)

My light arrived yesterday. Impressed with the light.

Couple of questions. Anyone know how many screws are holding the bottom mount to the light body. Thinking about putting a Go-pro Mount.

Anyone have pictures of output after doing the resistor mod?


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## four_bar_biker (Nov 13, 2016)

Ottoreni said:


> Anyone know how many screws are holding the bottom mount to the light body. Thinking about putting a Go-pro Mount.


It is only one screw and in view of dimensions and weight it is important to have the GoPro axis close to the center of gravity. As center of gravity is aligned with the screw, mount construction is complicated.. I made this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3929510


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