# Super duper On-one Inbred Build!! (urban style)



## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Ok, you may have seen my recent thread asking for opinions on a do it all urban singlespeed bike. The purpose of this build is to have something I can ride anywhere, anytime: sidewalks, parks, light trails, commuting, wheelies, store runs, etc....just a fun bike to ride when I don't want to get out the "serious" bikes. Sooooooooo......here's what I've got:

On-One Inbred Swap-Out Frame White 18"
On-One CroMo 26er MTB Fork - Disc - White
On-One 6061T6 Forged Alloy Seatclamp Bolt Up - 29.8mm
On-One Twelfty Sport MTB Seatpost- Black - black - 27.2mm
On-One Singlespeed Converter Kit with 16t Sprocket
Shimano Deore Disc/Rhyno Lite Wheelset 32 Hole, Black Rims
Maxxis Welter Weight Presta Valve Tube 26" X 1.9-2.125", Presta, Butyl Rubber
Easton Vice Am Stem '08 100mm, 6 Deg, 31.8 Clamp
Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers Gray
Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake '10 160mm G2
Truvativ Stylo T20 Flatbar Blast Black, 600, 5 Degree
Shimano Steel MTB Cable & Housing Kit Black
Maxxis Hookworm Tire Black, 26X2.1
Halo Hex Key Skewers
Race Face Evolve SS Crankset, 175 mm, 34t
Lizard Skins Charger Grips white
SRAM PC1 Chain
Cane Creek S10 Headset
Fizik Arione Saddle
something or other magnesium flat pedals I had laying around

I think that covers it....so on to the build! I don't have all the parts yet so bear with me, I'll update as it progresses. See the pics below.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

More pics!!!!

So where's the frame!!! lol.. Should be here tomorrow along with most of the other goods. Crankset I'll have to wait until next week for, bummer dudes! I'm gonna build it up tomorrow though sans crankset and be ready when she gets here. :arf:

By the way, the tires are soooo heavy, haha. Should be fun to ride, but man I think they weigh more than the wheels!


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## fryed_1 (Nov 8, 2010)

I'm building a on-one as we speak... Love it so far.


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## Kalamath (Mar 23, 2010)

Cool thread man. Looking forward to seeing more. I just built up a new SS so I may convert my SS Inbred to a 1x8. They are solid bikes for sure.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

looks like a perfectly average, nearly unremarkable build kit.
know what's awesome about those? 
they always build into awesome fukking bikes that LAST FOR YEARS!!

blue collar builds that're ridden hard and put away wet FTW :thumbsup:

oh, if you haven't got the tires yet- check out on one's deals on schwalbe supermotos.
pretty supple tires, I'm digging them!


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Got a saweet delivery today. Now all I'm waiting on is the cranks. I got some fsa gravity cranks here as well. I could ditch the granny ring and run these, but they're only 170s. Might throw them on later if I decide to go 2x9 or something, but for now I think I will wait for the RF cranks. Need the cranks to get my position dialed in, then I will cut the fork. See the pics below!

By the way, see the pic of my makeshift headset press. Would not recommend this LOL. The bottom cup was going in crooked, and I was getting a little nervous. Took some finesse to know where the bolt needs to be placed to get it in straight. There was some slop in the design (really?) and I had to stop and reposition the bolt a few times and just worked it in. Regardless, it's in!


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Mmm mmm good


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## ncruz408 (Apr 25, 2011)

Cant wait to see this build =) GL


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## fryed_1 (Nov 8, 2010)

asdasd said:


> By the way, see the pic of my makeshift headset press. Would not recommend this LOL.


Sorry dude but that's hi-tech in my world. I have the ghetto headset press market cornered...


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

that is one strong star nut!


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## fryed_1 (Nov 8, 2010)

fishcreek said:


> that is one strong star nut!


I have some of the reusable hope inserts. Those things are awesome!


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Hahaha, I like that headset press. As long as it gets the cups in there, who cares how you did it! It's gonna be a few more days now, the BB7's don't fit with 160mm rotors, DOH. Should have researched that before I ordered them. So they're going back and I have some 185's on the way. That should push the rear caliper up into the triangle enough to keep the pinch bolt from hitting the seatstay. Crank and bolt on skewers should be here Tuesday, I think the new brakes should be here then as well, at least I hope! I want to ride this thing!!!


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

Why doesn't the 160 rotor fit the rear again? I have never seen any info from on-one stating clearance issues. 160 is pretty common for a rotor size.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Here's an artist's rendering of what is going on. The pinch bolt hits the seatstay unless its all the way forward in the sliders for the bolts. Then you have no adjustability with it. With the larger rotor, the caliper sits farther up and to the right, inside the triangle and doesn't interfere with the frame.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Here's the official word from on-one, scroll down and read right above the picture of the pink bike.

New inbred frames out now | Products | News - On One Bikes - NEW AGE FUN with a VINTAGE FEEL


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

Thnx asdasd. I was looking into a carbon 456 with swapouts for SS and would probably have run into the same issue. This is really good info to be aware of.


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## fryed_1 (Nov 8, 2010)

Yes I can confer that one. Was thinking when I was installing my 180's that anything smaller would have issues. As it was it was difficult to tighten both top-post bolts with my multitool without banging it against the tubes.


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Had same issue on old style inbred. I just put a piece of electric tape back there to stop it from hitting the frame, the pinch bolt will also hit the frame with a 160. Use hydros now so all this is not a problem anymore.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Trued and tensioned the wheels; looking good so far.........


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

why didn't go with 2.5 hookworms? looking good, regardless.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

Almost there


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

I got the 2.1s since this will mostly see road use. They're bigger than they look in the pictures, should work great.


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## Igoreha (Feb 20, 2010)

What's the gear?


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

34x16


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

nice build :thumbsup: subscribed


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## Crazycarwes (Feb 21, 2012)

Looking good! :thumbsup:


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

I had to remove the paint off the fork at the front brake mount to keep the pads from rubbing the disc. I guess they don't account for paint thickness in their setup. Also had a horrible time adjusting the headset. After about 30 minutes I took it apart and found that I had a bearing in upside down, what an idiot. Position feels good, I might drop the stem down an additional 5mm. Bike runs great now, here it is in all its pollen covered goodness:


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## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

Nice bike, the fork and seat stays are awesome.


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## SS Hack (Jan 20, 2012)

Great build; I'll take one for around town.


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## umarth (Dec 5, 2007)

What is the width on the bar? I was imagining wider...


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

600 mm. I prefer a narrower bar, even on a SS.


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## ncruz408 (Apr 25, 2011)

So hows the ride? Loving the build! It made me want to build an urban go around bike as well. We should start an urban style thread to see other builds...


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## Ratman (May 13, 2005)

*Well Done!!*

That's a good looking build. I've got an old Marzocchi Shiver SC fork and a set of NOS Shimano XT 4-Pot brakes that I was thinking of throwing on my Inbred frame and doing an urban bike of my own. After seeing this thread I just might pull the trigger.


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## esq3585 (Jun 8, 2012)

Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/


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## L4NE4 (Apr 24, 2007)

hookworms are great! I have the 2.5s and I wouldnt go any narrower on a rigid.


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## ciclechik (Jan 21, 2007)

Very nice!


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

esq3585 said:


> Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/


Yea I really like the hookworms on the road. They are pretty heavy but grip is amazing.

I've got it set up for offroad use right now, check it out.


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## asdasd (Oct 24, 2006)

esq3585 said:


> Very nice, those hookworms roll nice and smooth? thinking of getting a set for my old dawes road bike/


Yea I really like the hookworms on the road. They are pretty heavy but grip is amazing.

I've got it set up for offroad use right now, check it out.


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## as2003 (May 1, 2012)

*Another Inbred Build*

Hello
I'm new at 'mtbr' and understand I'm probably violating some forum protocol by just posting my maintenance questions in somebody else's post. I would create my own thread. However, because I just now stopped lurking and actually joined the forum, I cannot create my own thread. I'd still appreciate anybody's help.

Here is my issue:
I've built an On On Inbred very similar to this one. All I lack is installing the rear avid bb7 caliper. The front one is installed and well adjusted so i'm familiar with the process.
However, I'm having problems with the rear one only. Because I read this thread, I realized that the Inbred's mounting brackets would create clearance issues for a 160mm rotor, and so I used a 180mm rotor. I've installed the rotor, but when I install the caliper as I did up front and according to SRAM's videos, the rotor is rubbing the outboard pad no matter what I do.

Am I doing something wrong installing the caliper or is this a problem of the rotor not being true? The rubbing seems to be evenly distributed throughout the entire revolution of the wheel. And it honestly doesn't seem to be creating huge problems. I just would like the pads and rotors I shelled a relatively large amount of money on (for my budget) to be well adjusted and running perfectly the first time I take this new bike on a legitimate ride.

Please let me know what other information could be useful if you think you can help me figure something out. I can send pictures if necessary.

Thanks


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## Xavonseine (Nov 1, 2012)

Hi there, I have also built a urban Inbred and here are my two cents:

- I also had bad time to adjust the rotors BB7 calipers front and rear. I initially thought the rotors were not true. But with time and effort the friction was gone. Now it works very well (front).

- Just a note concerning my build: it is a On One Inbred 29er 19.5" frame - as this is quite a big frame, the BB7 caliper fits just fine with a 160mm rotor (I attach a photo but not easy to see). 

Now the beast has been transformed into a urban fixie so no more rear brake and much more fun


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## as2003 (May 1, 2012)

Woops. repost


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## as2003 (May 1, 2012)

Xavonseine,

could you please explain what you mean by "time and effort"?

I have no plan on making this bike fixed and so I'd like to know how to get rid of the friction (aside from just riding it out  ). 
What sort of time and effort did it take?
I am also riding a 19.5 frame. You didn't have the issues discussed earlier in this thread with tightening the pinch bolt when the caliper is adjusted to a 160mm rotor?


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

When you tighten the pads to lock the rotor before tightening the CPS mounting bolts, can't you just add a few clicks to the outboard pad?
I find I need to use at least 6-8 clicks of the outboard pad when tightening the mounting bolts to allow enough retraction so that the pads don't rub.


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## Xavonseine (Nov 1, 2012)

as2003: indeed I had no problem mounting the rear BB7 caliper with a 160mm rotor on my Inbred 29er 19.5" frame (even if the space is tight, it worked). So rationally this should work for you?

Concerning my notion of "time and effort", this is a bit less rational and the slight friction probably totally disappeared simply by wearing/rubbing the pads for a little while. Yes, this qualifies for "effort"  ... As for the "time", these BB7 were initially mounted on my Kona Unit and apart from briefly riding it with pain I spent some time playing with the few clicks to retract the pads before tightening the caliper mounting bolts as much better described by Slash5 above. Sorry not to provide a clear answer but maybe other forum members like Slash5 have a more serious experience with this?


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## as2003 (May 1, 2012)

Slash5 said:


> When you tighten the pads to lock the rotor before tightening the CPS mounting bolts, can't you just add a few clicks to the outboard pad?
> I find I need to use at least 6-8 clicks of the outboard pad when tightening the mounting bolts to allow enough retraction so that the pads don't rub.


I've done this and I've even pushed the outboard pad almost all the way in and after tightening the bolts it still ends up rubbing. 
I think I will try one more time with the 180mm, since last time I started at the end of a long day and was hangry (hungry/angry). If I have no success, I'll give the 160mm a shot.

Fingers crossed and thanks for the responses.

P.S. If all else fails do you think it's a terrible idea to try hand-truing the rotors (for amateurs like myself) as shiggy does here?

There is supposed to be a link to a youtube video called rotor truing by titustiusa, but the forum fears that I am spamming.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

It isn't a rotor truing problem if it rubs all the way around. You could try the 160 rotor just to make sure it isn't the rotor but it should make no difference.
Is the actuating lever all the way back - the brake isn't part way on?
Are you sure the pad is seated in the caliper properly?
The only suggestion I can make is to try removing the paint off the frame where the caliper bracket mounts. I saw one post where someone had to do that.


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