# Got my 1up USA Quik-Rack tonight.



## Buadyen (Apr 18, 2009)

I've had a heck of a time finding a tray-style hitch rack that will fit on my Camaro Z28 -- getting the hitch installed was the easy part. Finding a rack that will clear the rear bumper proved to be a much greater challenge -- I needed at least 7" of clearance from the hitch pin hole to clear the bottom edge of the bumper, and then another 2" of clearance to clear the top edge (8" above the hitch level.)

The Thule T2 1.25" version wouldn't even fit far enough into the receiver to put the bolt in before it hit the bumper.

The Yakima HoldUp would fit, but it would hit the bumper when it was folded up. Plus, the metal tab that prevents it from folding up too far was sitting about a quarter inch away from the license plate light, so it would have surely broken the light on the first bump I hit.

The Saris Thelma rack had the same problem as the Yakima -- it would fit in the receiver, but it would hit the bumper when folded up.

I was trying to avoid using a hitch extender with those racks because of the weight of the rack and how far back behind the car an extender would put the rack.

That left me at plan D: the 1up USA Quik Rack. I knew that it wouldn't fit without an extender, but the rack was light enough and the receiver tube on it was short enough that an extender shouldn't cause too much of a problem with it. Plus, the 100% money back guarantee they have made it a fairly low-risk plan. So I ordered a rack, a 6" extender and a Hitch-Vise stabilizer from http://www.hitchrider.com/.

Here are the photos I took of the results:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157618889046214/

In the under car shots, you can see the locking hitch pin, followed by the Hitch-Vise (the shiny metal clamp on the hitch), followed by the extender, followed by the 1up USA rack. Through the pin hole of the extender, you can see the bottom part of the ball bearing that the rack uses to wedge itself into the hitch.

I'm pretty pleased with the results. There is absolutely no rattle or floppage in the rack. I could see the bike moving a bit while I was driving, but it was just from the metal flexing a bit, and it wasn't too bad. I'd be a bit concerned if I was taking it off road -- but you aren't exactly going to take a Camaro off road in the first place.

One drawback that I found with the rack is that when it's folded up, it completely blocks my rear license plate, which sounds like it would give a cop that's having a bad day an excuse to pull me over. Fortunately, the rack really doesn't stick far enough back behind the car that I need to fold it up when I don't have the bike on it.

One other drawback is that it takes a little bit of creativity to lock your bike to the rack. Right now, I've got a short cable that runs though the safety chain holes on the hitch to a u-lock that I lock around the main body of the rack. Then, I've got a longer cable that I run through the wheels and bike frame and down to the u-lock. It's not ultra secure, but it should hopefully make it a less attractive target.

I also think I'm going to get some locking nuts to replace the wing nuts that are on the tire spindles on the arms. The wing nuts look like they would be way too easy for someone to just walk by and remove...

[Edit: Plan E was to try a Raxter rack, they look like they are long enough to fit without an extender. Plan F was to get a hanging-style rack instead of a tray-style rack. ]


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## Silvestri (Apr 2, 2009)

Thanks for the review. I was debating whether to get the Raxter or the 1up. I guess we have a clear winner in the 1up, as it tilts back to allow me to open the rear hatch of my Suby.


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## Consuela (Jun 13, 2008)

Congrats! Hubby just installed a hitch on our Accord today. Still anxiously waitng for our 1up to arrive.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I'm going to be buying a 1upUSA before we take off for the mountains this summer. I like the looks of it for sure.

How easy and fast is it to mount on the car?

J.


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## Buadyen (Apr 18, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> I'm going to be buying a 1upUSA before we take off for the mountains this summer. I like the looks of it for sure.
> 
> How easy and fast is it to mount on the car?
> 
> J.


It's pretty easy and fast to mount it on the car -- the 1up USA web site really isn't exaggerating. Well, maybe the 10 second mounting time is, but I can unfold it and get it installed in my hitch in under a minute, not including the time spent tightening the locking bolt. (Just don't lose the allen wrench that comes with the hitch!)

It's a bit unwieldy to get it down to its most compact size if you forget to fold it before removing it from the car -- its most compact size is in the middle pivot positions (the hitch tube is sort of "tucked" up between the wheel trays), and it's easiest to fold it into that position while it's on the car (not that it's extraordinarily difficult to do it off of the hitch.)


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cool. I just need to get the cash together before July. Darn Recession!

J.


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## Consuela (Jun 13, 2008)

Our 1up Quick Rack arrived the night before we left for our big weekend bike trip. Phew!

Installed just as quickly as they say and worked like a charm. I can even access the trunk on the Accord with both bikes loaded and the rack in upright position. :thumbsup:


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## syadasti (Apr 20, 2004)

I got mine about a week and half ago. My impression so far is that it makes mainstream Thule and Yakima racks seem like Walmart quality and I've had them all - Saris Cycle-On, all the various generations of Sportworks/Thule T2, and Yakima Holdup v1(my last rack) :thumbsup: 

Its great cause most of the time I only need to carry one bike and rack system is very easy to use and folds up small enough to throw in the back of my car and still have plenty of room for groceries etc....


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## BikerCam (Oct 17, 2012)

I was looking to get a 2-bike system but does anyone know why the 2-bike system cost more ($529) than if I were to buy them separately ($299+$199 add-on)?


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## Maldevyne (Oct 11, 2008)

BikerCam said:


> I was looking to get a 2-bike system but does anyone know why the 2-bike system cost more ($529) than if I were to buy them separately ($299+$199 add-on)?


Just got mine tonight! Funny you resurrected this old thread. I think the new 2-bike costs a little more because there is more material & machining in the hitch-post, as well as new machining involved with the rack frame.

They also reportedly have an option (you would have to call) to get a 2" hitch, but with a single carrier for $35 extra. Then you would add the 199 for the add-on. The advantage would be that the single is a lot easier to wield. Adding the add-on is simple once the thing is on the car. Also, with the option of having only the single might make the difference between obscurring your license plate or not when folded up. On my pickup even the single blocks the plate, but on the Suby the single won't block the plate.

You're spending 500 or so on a rack, so consider the pros & cons of the different options... 35 more may be worth it. I almost went there, but decided to get the 1.25 w/ adapter in case I ever want to throw it on somebody else's car. John80 puts 4 bikes on his old 1.25 w/ adapter. The limitation is in the hitch/car not the rack.


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## BikerCam (Oct 17, 2012)

You hit the nail on the head. After doing more research I came to the same conclusion. When you buy the 2-bike carrier it comes with a fixed 2" hitch. This will allow you to go to a 4-bike system where the 1-bike system + add-on is limited to 3 bikes (according to 1upUSA).


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I guess I'm not understanding. If you got the 2" version had them make it a single for the $35 extra, you could still add on 3 additional single kits, correct?

As well, there is nothing to stop you from using 4 bikes on the 1.25" version either, is there? Just buy the extra kits.

I have the old 1.25" (I believe same as the current 1.25") that was sold as being capable of 4 bikes. We use it that way and have 3 add on kits. Works fine. I could add 10 kits to it if I wanted (but that would be silly) - there is no means of preventing adding additional kits.



J.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

Regardless of rack make, I'd recommend one of these if you start adding >2 bikes...IHMO.
Curt Trailer Hitch Support Strap - Bike Rack Strap with Cambuckle Curt Accessories and Parts 18050


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

For what purpose?

J.


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## Smilerz (Sep 18, 2007)

Just got my 1 up. Really like it. It makes loading and removing so easy, and it is heavy duty but light weight.


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

Ive got a 2" -2 bike 1 UP barely used if anyone needs one in Tampa Bay Florida???:thumbsup: I got a truck and won't need it anymore, I loved the rack on my old vehicle.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Those straps are silly.


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## BikerCam (Oct 17, 2012)

How much? Can you ship it to San Diego, CA?


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

racerwad said:


> Those straps are silly.


Actually, they're a lifesaver if your car needs it. I have one car with a hitch (or maybe its the frame one the car) that's so light duty my rack bounces wildly with just two bikes. Same setup is solid on the other car.

Do you have such extensive experience with hitches and hitch racks that you'd presume to know better than the hitch manufacturer? Curt recommends those straps with bike racks because of the high g-loading that results from the rack bouncing.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Sounds like either (a) a car that that shouldn't have a hitch or (b) a crappy hitch or (c) both.

A strap just doesn't seem like the right answer. Trunk or hatchs edges are not designed for that sort of loading.

I would seriously not use a hitch rack on a car if it needed that strap. 

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

All of the Curt hitches I've seen are super janky, often "requiring" drilling into the floorpan of the truck. This seems to be more of the case with their Class II hitches; maybe it isn't so bad with their class IIIs.

I agree with JohnJ80 - the strap doesn't attach to a point that is any more secure than the hitch itself and it's highly unlikely that the part in question was designed for any kind of load like that. I've never seen anyone else even suggest using a strap besides Curt. Looking at their class II hitches, it's understandable. The strap is only a bandaid solution to a fundamental problem.

Also, it isn't the rack that is bouncing - it's the hitch. It has to be, because the hitch is the interface that attaches the rack to the car. Granted, some racks may be bouncier than others, but the only thing that transfers inertia from the car to the rack is the hitch.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Sounds like either (a) a car that that shouldn't have a hitch or (b) a crappy hitch or (c) both.
> 
> A strap just doesn't seem like the right answer. Trunk or hatchs edges are not designed for that sort of loading.
> 
> ...


I'm telling you based on personal experience the strap works great.

Are you suggesting I replace my car, which fills my requirements perfectly, to avoid using a strap that costs basically nothing and takes 90 seconds to install??


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

racerwad said:


> All of the Curt hitches I've seen are super janky, often "requiring" drilling into the floorpan of the truck.


Who said anything about a truck and why would a hitch attach to the floorpan of the truck??  The OP asked about a Camaro and I related an experience with my CAR.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

steadite said:


> Who said anything about a truck and why would a hitch attach to the floorpan of the truck?? The OP asked about a Camaro and I related an experience with my CAR.


You're relating your experience, I'm relating mine. I have a Honda Fit and the Curt Mfg hitch rack requires drilling into the spare tire floor pan. This was true for the older model year Fit as well.

Here is a link to etrailer's Curt trailer page. An installation link and video are available which shows the questionable install. Trailer Hitch by Curt for 2009 Fit - 11064

Good call on the truck part, my statement does not make sense; I got my modes of transportation confused.

The only point John and I are making is that while the bounce is disconcerting, does anyone really think that the part you're attaching the strap to is at all suited for the task?

You're right that we have to make due with the options at our disposal. I'm just arguing that your solution may not be the best. As long as you get to the trail, bike intact, it's all good.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

*peace*

Good call...whatever gets you to the trailhead is the right way.:thumbsup:

I agree that video of drilling a hole in the Fit is shocking...I would be pissed to have to do that to my car. Not sure it's totally a Curt issue or if the car isn't set up well for hitches...


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*I drilled mine*



steadite said:


> Good call...whatever gets you to the trailhead is the right way.:thumbsup:
> 
> I agree that video of drilling a hole in the Fit is shocking...I would be pissed to have to do that to my car. Not sure it's totally a Curt issue or if the car isn't set up well for hitches...


No biggie. I had to remove the bumper on my GTi and drill. My A4 sedan as well.

Most cars I think you have to drill holes in to install a hitch. I've seen very few that have factory threaded inserts.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> No biggie. I had to remove the bumper on my GTi and drill. My A4 sedan as well.
> 
> Most cars I think you have to drill holes in to install a hitch. I've seen very few that have factory threaded inserts.


For the Hidden Hitch and Draw-Tite (which are the same manufacturer, IIRC), neither required drilling. You add your own threaded inserts. Both have marginally higher tongue weight ratings, too (200lbs vs 150lbs) for this specific application. AFAIK, the drilling is a Curt thing, which might account for their lower cost. This is only for their class II hitches.

Anyhow, I agree, getting yourself and your bike to the trailhead is job 1. :thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

steadite said:


> I'm telling you based on personal experience the strap works great.
> 
> Are you suggesting I replace my car, which fills my requirements perfectly, to avoid using a strap that costs basically nothing and takes 90 seconds to install??


No, I'm telling you that if you have to add a strap to make the whole thing stable there is probably something about the car that is not set up for a vertical load on the frame like you would get from a bike rack (but maybe ok for a horizontal pull) or the hitch receiver is crap. You should not need a strap to support it and stop it from bouncing, and if you do then I think you are pushing the margins of something that is not good or not properly installed. Something is not right if you need a strap like that.

Finally, where you attach the strap was almost certainly not designed for the loading that a bike rack with 75lbs of bikes cantilevered off the back was designed for. If you are attaching this to the hatch or trunk lid and using that for support, I would expect that sooner or later with a load of bikes on the back and when you hit a big bump you will be visiting the body shop to fix the damaged door/hatch/trunk panel.

The other alternative is that you are using a strap and it's not needed and that you've misinterpreted the movement of the rack as abnormal when it isn't.

J.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> The other alternative is that you are using a strap and it's not needed and that you've misinterpreted the movement of the rack as abnormal when it isn't.


I definitely prefer maximum safety equipment when it comes to bikes hanging off the back of my car. It hurts nothing, adds stability, and certainly reduces stress on the hitch.

Consider the math...if I have ~150 lb worth of bike+rack (3, 30lb bikes and 60 lb rack), and I go over a bump that creates just a 1.5g acceleration, the resulting 225lb exceeds the 200lb tongue weight rating of my hitch.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

steadite said:


> I definitely prefer maximum safety equipment when it comes to bikes hanging off the back of my car. It hurts nothing, adds stability, and certainly reduces stress on the hitch.
> 
> Consider the math...if I have ~150 lb worth of bike+rack (3, 30lb bikes and 60 lb rack), and I go over a bump that creates just a 1.5g acceleration, the resulting 225lb exceeds the 200lb tongue weight rating of my hitch.


You're right.

What John and I are suggesting is that the strap isn't actually helping anything because it's just diverting forces into a component that was never meant for it. It's easier for me to believe that the hitch and the parts of the car it mounts to has some margin of safety engineered in that your truck lid does not.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

We're way off the OP's topic here, but my point is only that I have a lightweight car with a "light duty" hitch which needs some additional support and if something is going to bend or break, I'd rather it was the liftgate than the hitch. At least then I'd visually know something was wrong before went catastrophic (the hitch).

If the hitch had a fatigue crack somewhere by the bolts, I'd have no clue until the whole thing fell off.


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## Maldevyne (Oct 11, 2008)

steadite said:


> We're way off the OP's topic here


The OP's been and gone, man! This thread is 3 1/2 years old. It was resurrected by someone asking about certain price differences. Then you popped in with your strap, and now you're chiding because that's off topic?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

steadite said:


> We're way off the OP's topic here, but my point is only that I have a lightweight car with a "light duty" hitch which needs some additional support and if something is going to bend or break, I'd rather it was the liftgate than the hitch. At least then I'd visually know something was wrong before went catastrophic (the hitch).
> 
> If the hitch had a fatigue crack somewhere by the bolts, I'd have no clue until the whole thing fell off.


Fair enough. I'm following your thinking. I can't speak for JohnJ80, but I think we'll agree to disagree


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

steadite said:


> We're way off the OP's topic here, but my point is only that I have a lightweight car with a "light duty" hitch which needs some additional support and if something is going to bend or break, I'd rather it was the liftgate than the hitch. At least then I'd visually know something was wrong before went catastrophic (the hitch).
> 
> If the hitch had a fatigue crack somewhere by the bolts, I'd have no clue until the whole thing fell off.


Let me put it this way - I wouldn't do what you are doing. The hitch/car setup is either good or it's not and you should be able to verify all of that between the car mfg and the hitch mfg. If it's not, then I'd not be depending on a trunk lip to hold it all together. If, for example, it is not and it fails and falls off the car which I doubt the strap would matter, then you could really have some serious liability.

But, hey, it's your car, rack and bikes. Just don't drive in front of me.  So we can disagree and it's ok.

J.


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