# My Bike Weighs 33lbs... and I ride XC!



## Hallinator (Jun 26, 2010)

My bike is clinically obese and I'd like to do something about it. Ideally I'd like to shave off 8 pounds, but that is a hefty (haha) goal. I knew my bike was heavy, but this is pretty embarrassing. I ride XC with small jumps (1-2 ft) and hills, been riding for one season.

Current Upgrades in *BOLD*. Everything else is stock.

Where will I see the most weight loss? New tires? New wheels? New frame?

Please tell me there's hope...

2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc

Fork: RST Gila POS
Brakes: (REAR)Shimano BR-M415 w/6" rotor brakes, *Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers*
*(FRONT) Avid BB7, Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers*
*Shift Levers: Shimano Alivio*
Front Derailleur: Shimano Acera
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Acera
Crankset: TruVativ ISO Flow 3.0, 22/32/42 teeth
*Pedals: Crankbros Eggbeater 3*
Bottom Bracket: TruVativ Power Spline, 113mm spindle
BB Shell Width: 68mm
Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Chain: Shimano CN-HG50
Seatpost: Alloy micro adjust, 30.9mm diameter
Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry ATB
Handlebar: Alloy riser
Handlebar Stem: Specialized

Wheels
Hubs:	Front: Shimano HB-M65L Centerlock disc, Rear: Shimano FH-M65L Centerlock
Rims:	Specialized/Alex HRD 26, 36-hole
Tires:	26 x 2.10" Specialized Resolution


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## ProjectDan35 (Jul 19, 2010)

The most weight loss will occur in a new wheel set, and a new fork. ( air fork ).


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

First of all, you need to realize that this could get ugly, as it is likely the cumulative weight of all the components along with the frame. Second, it will make some difference, but it won't suddenly make you king of the hill if you're not damn close to that already. Third, this could be a spendy, slippery slope on which for you to read.

How far will you go to make a silk purse from a relative sow's ear? What often happens is that you will literally replace everything on the bike except the frame, and maybe the front derailleur. Seen it happen many, many times.

Eight pounds is radical surgery. Do you love this frame so much that you are willing to spend two or three times what you paid for the bike to drop eight pounds from it? How much budget are you willing to committ to this project?

I honestly don't see how you could lose that much without spending at least $1,000 and that would take some real bargain hunting.



ProjectDan35 said:


> The most weight loss will occur in a new wheel set, and a new fork. ( air fork ).


True in most cases, and rotating weight is a great thing to ga after, but there could be some other 'boat anchor' type parts that are relatively cheap to replace first. Some 'low hanging fruit' so to speak.

You already have 'legbeaters'. . . . . . I mean eggbeater pedals and those are pretty light, but that is the first thing I would check. No low hanging fruit there, bummer.

The stem and seatpost are the next things I would check. Then, the handlebar.

As for the fork, your stock fork is around 5.5lbs or so. You could drop 1.5lbs to a little over 2lbs off that for around $300 to $400 (or possibly more coin if you're sloppy about shopping). Right now, you can get some pretty good deals on a Manitou R7 and those forks weigh well under 4lbs.

My guess is that your wheels weigh around 2200 to 2400g. It will likely cost you at least $400 to get that down into the sub-1700g range (not including skewers).

So, let's be optimistic and say you took 2 pounds off the fork, and 1.5lbs from the wheels, and by the time you pay shipping (cuz the LBS isn't going to be cheaper in this journey), you're likely going to be around at least $800 and you've taken 3.5lbs off the bike 

Next thing would be the tires. The Specialized Resolution Sport with wire beads weigh 735g each. If you went with a Specialized 26" x 2.2" LK Control (reasonable sidewall strength, and not outrageously expensive - about $45 to $50 each), they are supposedly around 515g each, so you could shed close to another pound for another $100.

So, we're now up around $900 +/- and we've taken 4.5lbs off the bike. Oh yeah, that fancy wheelset? A large part of the weight savings is going to come from no longer having a steel freehub body and now having an aluminum freehub body. And, you have a cassette that has individual cogs. Some of that type have pins keeping them somewhat aligned together, but you will still need to get a cassette with an aluminum carrier that holds most of the cogs, and that will be another $75 for aShimano XT or a SRAM 990 (the Shimano SLX ony holds the first three cogs, and I would spend the extra for the XT or SRAM 990).

Now, you might be a world class shopper and find an outrageous deal here and there, but that is going to take even more time and patience than it will to get the deals I am already figuring on here, and this is where things start to make the cash register really sing. Are you ready to keep going?
==============================
BTW: You can get one of these that supposedly weighs 21.1lbs (w/o pedals) for $1499:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fly_9357_x.htm


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## Koppuh Klyde (Jul 13, 2010)

^^^What he said. Jeffj, you go above and beyond the call of duty.  

My thoughts on this- Pulling that extra weight will only help you while exercising. The HardRock is designed as an entry level trailbike. XC bikes are designed for a more experienced rider. 

Upgradeitis is a common disease that plagues us as men. We love all those numbers and carbon fiber and shiny metal ugh, ugh, UGH! I have already picked out all sorts of upgrades myself (but havent bought them yet) and am waiting for those parts to break so I can justify (Yes, Im married) spending lots and lots of money on them. Good luck and do post which items you choose.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

+1 with jeffj post, if you are going to spend $$$$ to drop 8 lbs it's much better to buy a new lighter bike.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I've upgraded most of my rockhopper, and tried to save weight where I can but kept the upgrades mid-range. I would upgrade as you see fit but don't go crazy on that frame. When I want an ultralight bike I'll spend the $ on a real nice frame.


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## Jeff in Bend (Jun 5, 2010)

I agree with the above posts. Your bike is what it is. When you can afford it buy another bike if you want, until then rock your current bike and be stronger for it. My bike weighs around the same and it's a very nice and expensive bike but the frame size and style make it on the heavy side, it's my only bike and is used for lots of XC riding. Spend your money on a skills camp, you'll get way more benefit for your $$.


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## mullen119 (Aug 30, 2009)

I have one bike that weighs in at 34.2 and one at 35.8 and I ride both of them on XC trails


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

OP - I have the '07 Hardrock Comp. I've actually done a lot of the upgrades jeffj mentions, although I haven't been trying to weight weenie it. I'm trying to be disciplined about that - if I'm going to get into that, I'd rather cannibalize it building up a race frame, and maybe borrow a food scale and bust out a spreadsheet while I'm at it, so I can be intelligent about it. But, I'm at 152 lb, and I think my best racing weight is at 145 - a little silly to worry about the bike until I hit that weight, and even then, maybe not until I move up another class. I have heavy-ass pedals, a heavy-ass stem and a heavy-ass seat post. That's all okay, though, they do the jobs I want them to, and I doubt that I'd see a swing of more than a pound if I replaced them.

Switching from a RST Gila to a Manitou R7 made a shocking amount of difference. People trash-talk it for its flexiness, but it's a lot stiffer than the Gila. And I did notice the weight loss from the front end - it became a lot easier to pop up the front wheel.

The Shimano crankset on mine was a real boat anchor. Since yours is a model down, I'd speculate that it's worse. Cranks can be a relatively expensive upgrade, though, especially if you want a weight weenie model. I swapped for an SLX for a different reason, and it's a lot lighter. I don't know that I notice a difference there, though, and if I had to pick a place not to care, it would be around the bottom bracket.

I did replace the handlebars, the weight change was pretty big, and I can't say I noticed it in riding. I did notice the change I was trying for, though.  

The Specialized Resolution, at least in the cheapo version on a Hardrock, is a POS. Replace the tires because they suck, take weight loss as a side benefit. Replacing the wheels hasn't made as big a difference, but I replaced the front wheel for a different reason a couple years ago, and mine were 32-hole models, not 36-hole models. So, it could be a bigger change for you.

Late last season I was doing a really masochistic fire road climb on the back side of one of my favorite mountains and some dude in gym shorts, on a mostly stock Hardrock Sport (he'd put on a really fat rear tire and a gel saddle cover, but I think those were the only tweaks) came huffing, puffing and grunting past me. I caught up to him when he took a break at the top and found out he was a mountaineering guide, so I felt better about that. Also that his big back pack just contained a helmet, so lots of volume and no weight. I'm used to being the annoying guy on the inexpensive bike in those situations, so it was a little startling to have someone else climb faster than me on an even cheaper setup. Leave the embarrassment about your bike's weight to the dudes you pass.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

I agree with what Andrew is saying. And andrew, he killed you on a fire road climb I wouldn't worry too much about it. People like that really make laugh; blazing on flat two track like wtfbbqsauce?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Actually, one of the funnier parts of that story is that I was on my way to the singletrack descent that makes that my favorite place to ride. I first saw the guy when he was on the way down the doubletrack. I assumed he was lost - wtf would someone ride down that doubletrack when another several minutes up, there's some beautiful mountain biking to be done!? Often, I get mine back when the miles start to add up anyway.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

wheels and tires will make the biggest difference. 36 is a lot of spokes for an XC wheel.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

mack_turtle said:


> wheels and tires will make the biggest difference. 36 is a lot of spokes for an XC wheel.


A friend of my sons had the 36 spoke wheels on one of those bikes (and the wonderful, no make that 'woeful' Gila too). I think the build quality could be suspect on those. In spite of weighing under 150lbs, he still managed to mangle the front wheel hitting a pothole in the street. I happened to have an old 36h Tioga rim in the garage I used to rebuild the for him and it's still going strong a few years later.

I'd at least get them checked for even spoke tension.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

I took over 5lbs off my bike for under $500

new epicon fork
new lx crankset
used mavic crossmax sl 
tubeless


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

kan3 said:


> I took over 5lbs off my bike for under $500
> 
> new epicon fork
> new lx crankset
> ...


Regardless of exactly how it's divided up, you did very well. The new LX crankset can be had for $89 plus shipping. I see new Epicon forks for about $200+ including shipping (or more), but maybe you found one for a little less. That doesn't leave much for CrossMax SL wheels and tubeless. I would have to imagine you got a VERY good price on that wheelset.

Now that most of the low hanging fruit has been plucked for $100 per pound, do you think you could remove another 3lbs from your bike for less than $500? Maybe, but you're still going to be up there in the $800-$1,000 range and you got a steal of a price on the CrossMax SL wheelset.


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## chimpanzee00 (Dec 16, 2006)

Best to scan for deals on CL.

Some guy had a GT Avalanche frame with rigid fork..22 lbs for $200. Just missed it.

Someone else had a Cannondale F1000 (yellow, fairly recent)..24 lbs for $200. Just missed it.

Someone had a 2006 Cannondale F600 for $549 (disk brakes, no offroad use..only city, bought new for $1200). Looks brand-new. weight=? See attached image.



> Original owner - bought brand new for $1200
> Mint condition - very lightly used as urban commuter - never ridden offroad
> A real high quality machine - frame handmade in USA
> This bike looks Brand new put an extra couple hindred in extras new tires, New grips, New Pedals, New tires, Just had it tuned up!


I just got a Cannondale F600 ('95, Headshock front fork..lockout doesn't work) with everything except brake-levers, ~26-26 lbs (with heavy 20oz platform pedals)..$130. LX hubs, LX cantilevers, LX crank, LX & XT front/rear derailleurs. Wheelset ~4.25 lbs (1912g) I'm starting a build, & we'll see how low I can go.


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

jeffj said:


> Now that most of the low hanging fruit has been plucked for $100 per pound, do you think you could remove another 3lbs from your bike for less than $500? Maybe, but you're still going to be up there in the $800-$1,000 range and you got a steal of a price on the CrossMax SL wheelset.


I've found a lot of nice used wheel sets on ebay but I guess it just takes patience. I do agree past the first 4-5lbs it gets really hard. Unless you want to cheat and do something like a 1x9 then you can get rid of quite a bit of weight for free.


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## Crosstown Stew (Aug 16, 2008)

My brother had this same bike, XL frame, and it was a boat anchor. I got it down to 25 lbs for under 500 bucks for his birthday last year. 

Bought new set of LX cranks for under 100 from Jensonusa
Bought used set of Mavic Crossrides with tires for 100 on CL
Bought new set of Elixir 5's for 200
Bought new closeout Easton EA70 bars stem seatpost under 60
Bought a surly singlanator and spacer kit 40

Took off all the crap components, and replaced them while converting to single speed. Not very light for a ss but with 200-250 for a decent used fork on CL probably could get it down another pound or pound and half and then it's pretty respectable. One gear is all you really need anyway.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

I didn't realize that there was something wrong with a 33lb bike, should I be worried about mine?

You'll be spending money hand over fist to drop weight on that bike. It's fine if you really like it but you've reached a point where it would be time to consider picking up a complete bike on the new or used market that might serve your light weight fantasies better. A 25lb Hardrock is a bold goal and you have to remember that old bike adage from Keith Bontrager "Strong. Light. Cheap. Pick Two.". You will be sacrificing strength for your jumps if you go cheap and light, if you want strong and light well it's not going to be cheap. 

I thought jeffj made the point quite well, but if you're insistent on upgrades then I'll throw out a couple suggestions also. Wheels probably won't make the greatest difference in scale weight but they will probably add a difference in the weight you feel while you ride the bike. Tires are cheap and easy to upgrade to something lighter than those wire beads. That fork can be expensive to replace but you can loose some serious weight up there too.

Things I wouldn't bother upgrading for weight are items like the shifters and derailleurs. Upgrade those when they break. Shopping is going to be your friend so good luck!


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Have a few bikes. As well laid out by jeff and others, it'd cost you more than twice what a good used bike would cost. Plus it's good to have more than 1 set up. I for speed with clipless, 1 for tecnical with platform. 1 for the corner store, 1 for a freind, 1 for the road, xc, dh, ect. 
Any decent bike that you like, and fits you well, is worth maintaining so save the upgrades for when something breaks.
Ride upgrades, don't buy upgrades. 
BTW, Whether I ride my lighter or heavier bikes, I have just as much fun.


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## fireball_jones (Mar 29, 2009)

I don't think I've ever weighed a bike that I've owned. After a few walks home with bent rims and broken parts, you start to appreciate a bike that's a little bit heftier but a lotta bit more bombproof.

If you want to maintain strength but lose some weight, reducing complexity is the way to go. Turn it into a 1x9 (or a single speed), switch to a rigid carbon fork, or (as you've already done), go with minimalist clipless pedals.


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

I've never weighed my bikes either. Pretty sure my old GF Aquila is easily 30+, and my new Sette is just under. Regardless, I'm more interested in shedding pounds off of my fat ass than my bike


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Just to add on to what has been posted. Once you get down to the upper 20 pound range it starts to get expensive to make your bike lighter. I am a clyde and my XC hardtail, a Titus Riddler built up with nice stuff comes in at 26.5 pounds. My 5 inch bike is about 31 pounds. 

If you want to get down in the 25-28 pound range, sell your bike and get a different bike. For example, for $1249 you can get a Settle Jamr bike that weighs 25.5 pounds ready to ride (even if they fudged and it is 27 pounds, you are still 6 pounds lighter). Assuming you were going to spend $800 for upgrades and you can get $200 for your current bike, this would only be an extra $250 or so. For that money you end up with a bike that not only has decent wheels and fork, but every other component is significantly improved over your current bike (excepting the pedals). You can get similar deals from bikesdirect or better yet, used.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I was moving some stuff in and out of my locker and saw the stuff sack I have with my emergency repair stuff for commuting. That's another place you can save weight.

On a typical trail riding day, I have two tubes, a patch kit and a spare link in a seat wedge, and a tool and a pump in my jersey pocket. For a while I was ditching all that stuff to race, but decided I'd rather carry a few extra ounces and be able to finish a race if I got a minor mechanical or a flat. So I compromised - on race days, I keep the pump and tool, but carry one spare tube and a power link in a zip loc bag in a jersey pocket.

If you're one of these guys who wears a large camelbak with a million ounces of water, several separate, shop quality tools, and a full-sized pedal wrench, that's practically the definition of an inexpensive way to cut weight - figure out how much water you actually need, and substitute a good multi tool for multiple, separate tools. The camelbak itself can be heavy too, and if you're bringing extra layers with you, think about being more of a roadie about it - maybe all you really need is a light wind breaker that stuffs in a jersey pocket, not a fleece, or maybe you just need sleeves or a vest. Consider using bottles in cages - you're not necessarily losing any weight that way, but it moves it from somewhere that matters a lot (at least to me - I don't like having a lot of weight on my back) to somewhere that doesn't matter much at all. If you use your bike for something else, like commuting, strip the commute crap off your helmet. If you're a ******, strip the helmet cam off. If you're not already riding in racing shoes, that's a largish swing in weight and the greater stiffness of the shoe improves power transfer.


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## prowler220x (Jan 20, 2011)

dundundata said:


> I've upgraded most of my rockhopper, and tried to save weight where I can but kept the upgrades mid-range. I would upgrade as you see fit but don't go crazy on that frame. When I want an ultralight bike I'll spend the $ on a real nice frame.


I feel the same way...I have an '05 Rockhopper Comp Disc that I've changed everything on minus the drivetrain. Sure not all of it is top of the line stuff but it's better than what came on it and a tad lighter. Being that this is my first mountain bike it's been a learning experience all the way.

My next bike will be a 29er with no expense spared parts.

I think being a stronger rider is the best & cheapest thing you can do to help your riding.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

The problem is, everything on that bike is heavy. For sure it's stout, and works well enough, but it wasn't designed to be a light weight.

Value for you money, you're much better off saving up your cash, selling your bike, and then simply buying a lighter bike. Something like this:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fly_9357_x.htm


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I was moving some stuff in and out of my locker and saw the stuff sack I have with my emergency repair stuff for commuting. That's another place you can save weight.
> 
> On a typical trail riding day, I have two tubes, a patch kit and a spare link in a seat wedge, and a tool and a pump in my jersey pocket. For a while I was ditching all that stuff to race, but decided I'd rather carry a few extra ounces and be able to finish a race if I got a minor mechanical or a flat. So I compromised - on race days, I keep the pump and tool, but carry one spare tube and a power link in a zip loc bag in a jersey pocket.
> 
> If you're one of these guys who wears a large camelbak with a million ounces of water, several separate, shop quality tools, and a full-sized pedal wrench, that's practically the definition of an inexpensive way to cut weight - figure out how much water you actually need, and substitute a good multi tool for multiple, separate tools. The camelbak itself can be heavy too, and if you're bringing extra layers with you, think about being more of a roadie about it - maybe all you really need is a light wind breaker that stuffs in a jersey pocket, not a fleece, or maybe you just need sleeves or a vest. Consider using bottles in cages - you're not necessarily losing any weight that way, but it moves it from somewhere that matters a lot (at least to me - I don't like having a lot of weight on my back) to somewhere that doesn't matter much at all. If you use your bike for something else, like commuting, strip the commute crap off your helmet. If you're a ******, strip the helmet cam off. If you're not already riding in racing shoes, that's a largish swing in weight and the greater stiffness of the shoe improves power transfer.


who carries several tools instead of a multi tool? id like to punch them in the face


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

You could buy a chinese carbon ebay frame.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

That motobecane is nice, but their stated weight is a bit misleading. They use superlight, small, nearly treadless tires, a 12-27 road cassette, and use a size small with no pedals. It is realistically a 23-24 pound bike ready for real world, normal riders.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

CDMC said:


> That motobecane is nice, but their stated weight is a bit misleading. They use superlight, small, nearly treadless tires, a 12-27 road cassette, and use a size small with no pedals. It is realistically a 23-24 pound bike ready for real world, normal riders.


Agreed, but for the money the real world weight is excellent, and the OP would be much better off simply saving his money for one instead of trying to upgrade his bike.


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## chilly460 (Apr 28, 2011)

I'm sort of in the same boat, I'm just getting back into biking with my ancient '98 Trek 830 XC rigid bike. Weighs 32lbs. Basically, it doesn't fit me right and has some painfully crappy stock components as it was a cheap bike back in the day, and the components are only the more inadequate now. I've been finding used deals on CL and local shops, put a Bontrager stem on it for $5 that replaced a 350g steel stem that was in it and dropped a quick 170g. Same for the saddle, even cheapie WTB saddles were considerably lighter then what it had...and way more comfortable. I'm just upgrading as I go, figure I can get to 27lbs or so just replacing things as I find stuff used, or tires wear out and I can go for some lighter foldable that will drop easy 100g each.

That said, buddy has a 24lb "real world" ready to run bike for sale for a good price, I'll jump on that in a heartbeat once I've saved a little cash...there's no way I can get my current bike to that weight for less then $1000...and that would be a big stretch even buying used parts.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I shouldn't be the one to throw stones, but...

you're trying to weight-weenie a cheap steel bike that doesn't fit you??


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

2 frames I have built in the past that pretty light was Klein Attitude, and Cannondale F series. I just threw the components I had around with v-brakes set up it barely crack 25lbs so if you are going to spend a lot of money dropping weight you may want to look at some used Klein/C'dale there's a few on CL for less than $800.


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## Ganymede_Illusion (Mar 12, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Switching from a RST Gila to a Manitou R7 made a shocking amount of difference. People trash-talk it for its flexiness, but it's a lot stiffer than the Gila. And I did notice the weight loss from the front end - it became a lot easier to pop up the front wheel.


I have the Gila plus on my Response...I now know exactly what you mean after witnessing the forks on the bikes I went riding with today.

The Gilas are heavy and like pogo sticks....hardly even compressing over bumps. They are a cheap fork to make the bike affordable at Dick's I suppose, but man...I canot wait to get a better bike....They are just so much smoother.

OP my Diamondback is also heavy....real heavy, but I'm going to get an entire new bike, most likely a rock-hopper with a few upgrades or if I have enough balls...a Stump-Jumper$$$$$$ lol


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

bad mechanic said:


> Agreed, but for the money the real world weight is excellent, and the OP would be much better off simply saving his money for one instead of trying to upgrade his bike.


Well said. Ebay is also another place to look. I have seen full suspension xc race bikes 2 years old for under a grand in the 25 lbs. range. It takes time to find deals, but they're out there.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

The DB Response is definitely a 'solid' bike  Good entry level thrasher though and it is serving it's purpose well.

I would try to resist the urge to throw a new fork on it as it will still be quite heavy and you could put that money away to be used toward a new bike and be that much closer to your goal. Maybe if you found a used Tora for $100 that isn't trashed, but $300 or more just puts you further from your new bike.

If you learn to ride the DB well, when you finally do upgrade bikes, you'll be a better rider for it.


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## Hallinator (Jun 26, 2010)

Well... I'm a little overwhelmed by all this response. Big thanks to jeffj, AndrwSwitch and anyone else who really put some time into this.

Anyway you all have slapped me back into reality, my bike is what it is and it's unrealistic to change that. Besides, it works perfectly fine! All the money i put into this bike from now on will be maintenance and repairs. Now i just need to wait for that freaking Gila to break.

Thanks again everyone!


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## Spanky_88007 (Jan 26, 2007)

Not to be sarcastic, but why don't you just ride that puppy as hard as you can every time you ride it and take 8+ pounds off of yourself? My hardtail is about 30 pounds, and as I've dropped 10 pounds over the last few months of riding and exercising, I've noticed a significant improvement in my speed and endurance. Didn't cost me a dime, unless you count replacing tires as needed.

That said, I've upgraded parts over the years little by little, as I am in college and can't drop big $$$ in one fell swoop. As such, I've invested ~2k into a bike I bought for 700 bucks new. Mind you, this was over a period of _years_. The upside to that is that if I ever do go for a fancy new frame, I have fancy parts to put on it. Which saves me that much more money for a better bare frame that what I might find in an already built bicycle.

Enjoy the looking, dreaming, and scheming of all the different upgrades there are out there (I do it daily, it's called bike pron), but don't let all those things foreshadow the fun you should be having on the bicycle you own as it is now. I'd love to be able to drop thousands of dollars on bling, but I know that it won't happen. So, I get on the trails on my old heavy steed and drop guys on carbon dream machines. It's not _all_ about the bike. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the guy on the carbon bike, he's having just as much fun as I am.

Weight is going to be more of an issue when you go pro, my friend. Don't forget this is the Beginners' Forum, and you might have a ways to go, yet.

But, that's all just my 2 scents - spelling intended.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Sorry I did not read correct lighter is better for xc.


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## KnSk (Oct 22, 2010)

Well I am in a similar situation where I bought a 2010 Hardrock Sport Disc for $600 dollars. At that time, it was a huge investment for a mere "bicycle" as before my bikes were from K-Mart. So over the few months I have been slowly upgrading the components of the bike one by one. It is almost like a hobby to search for some nice components and read forums about them . I have been riding for about 3000's miles already and as I ride more I realize that the bike was holding me back due to its heavy weight and "bad" components. 

So what did I upgrade? The first thing I did was swap out the stock pedals. Everyone was recommending clipless pedals and shoes and so I went for it. A very good decision indeed :thumbsup:. Next are the handlebar and stem, I didn't like the riser bar and I wanted the stem to be longer to fit me better. Weight saving was a huge bonus as well. Then, as I got into more trail riding, I found the fork absolute "crap" as it was basically a 20mm fork, seriously! I took a huge step to change it to a Magura Durin SL fork :eekster:. Yes, super expensive but I got it for half the normal price brand new. It totally transformed the entry level bike to a very capable XC bike. And yes, more upgrades to come :eekster:. As I got into more road riding, I join a local road cycling club (LOL for the first time I felt so "slow" as I just couldn't catch up to them despite having a slick Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tyres). So I started to obsess over rolling resistance and weight, I wanted a wheelset that is light and strong. So I choose the Fulcrum Red Metal 3 over the more popular Stans Crest due to looks alone  (gotta admit it ). What next? New brakes switching out from Avid BB5 to Formula RX! The avid bb5 has been giving me too much problem as I had to constantly adjust the caliper every 2 rides to get it not rub. This is the latest upgrade I have done to my beloved hardrock. 

Do I ever regret doing this? Not one bit. I truly appreciated the experience and fun that I got from this hobby of cycling and also be able to upgrade whatever part that I am not satisfied with to suit my body exclusively. If I take a lump sum, these upgrades has costed me around $1200. This not only dropped my bike weight from the stock 33lb to a respectable 24lb but also significantly improved the performance of my bike. It feels like a $2000 dollar bike now  Mind you that all these upgrades occurred over a period of 7 months because I am a student as well so I cannot afford to spend huge amounts at once. The fun part of upgrade is the process of doing it and having to really think what you really want from a tight budget. 

So my tip for all of you who choose the upgrade path is to do it over a period of time so that you really know what you and your body wants. The trick in upgrading on a tight budget is to hunt for bargain  If I had bought all those upgrades without bargain price, it would have been at least twice that amount! :nono:


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## curtboroff (Sep 21, 2010)

Never weighed my bike until I read this. 29lbs, not bad as it's all an all stock 21" rockhopper 29. Im buying pieces for a tubeless Flows/Hadley wheelset that I'm building myself, but will still cost $600+. I'll most likely upgrade to an slx 2x9 drivetrain, then maby lighten up the cockpit. I even had a reba on it for a week, switched back to the Tora race solo air because it's stiffer, but also heavier. I'm a big guy though, 6'3"/215 and not much fat to lose, so I need stiff and strong over light.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

That's cool KnSk but, you could have kept your hardrock and spent 1200, or sold it for a few hundred and spent 1500 on a brand new bike or got 2 used for the same 1200 and had 2 or 3 usable bikes so...
it's always good to have more than 1 bike even if you always ride the same terrain or always ride clipless, you still might have a bikeless freind you could bring along or 1 might break or?
Money wise it's just not worth it to upgrade unless it's the only bike that you fit, or like, and you don't mind spending twice as much for the same results. If something breaks and you wanna fix it and spend a little extra to get better parts is another story. 
If you love your frame that much, you could get a better used bike and swap all the parts and still come out ahead but still are left with only 1 usable bike.


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## KnSk (Oct 22, 2010)

Yea theMeat thats really interesting but I guess I haven't yet encountered a situation where I need more than one bike. But I do have two wheelsets now, one for road riding and one for mtb in which the old wheelset is now my 2nd wheelset so it basically covers what I do for now. You see, we humans are a lot of times not as rational as we hoped and wanted to be. Upgrading now may seem more rational and beneficial to fulfill our wants than saving up to buy a new bike. If I have a look at a Specialized Stumpjumper at the 2k mark, it is not better than my current components except for frame weight and slight drivetrain improvement. But I think in the future I may get a new road bike as I love road as much as I love mountain biking. Cheers


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Not "really interesting", just a matter of fact. Could have got a whole used bike for the price of a decent set of wheels but If you like changing wheels go for it. Have a couple of road bikes a fs, and a few ht. There's no way to tell if you're gonna meld with a bike by riding it for a few minutes at the lbs. My latest bike was a '09 fisher hifi pro 29er that I picked up used for 1800. The bike was mint and after riding it for a few months just decided that I didn't like it and sold it for 1900. So I made a hundred and didn't spend 3500 on a new bike that in the end didn't like. Decicded to go with a ht 29er and love it. Don't really get how 1 bike is all you need/want. Love having a road bike, and a fs, 29er, rigid, but 26 ht is still my fav and if I could only have 1 that would be it. Don't really get your point either because you say 1 bike is all you want but want a road bike also even thou you have another wheelset to change off. Love it when people by brand new hi end bikes and pay full price at lbs. It just makes it better for me when I wanna buy a hardly used hi end bike for half the price. since I already have a bike to ride, I can hold off until I come across a super deal. If I come across a deal that's just to good to pass on and then I find I don't like or ride it, I just sell it or give it to a freind so at least it gets used, and believe what goes around comes around.
It's your money and obviously you can do what you want with it. The thread starter asked about upgrading a bike to save some weight and the bike he has is only worth a few hundred and maybe a few hundred more when he's done spending lots more so...Not trying to be a [email protected], just sayin.
Cheers


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## chrisg67 (Jun 9, 2011)

to OP, i had the same weight on my bike before i just upgraded a few things (also have a hardrock)

i had already replaced the bars/stem with EA50 gear, deore rear derailer, and fork is bomber Z3. weighed in at 33lbs.

just replaced the alex rims with sun rhyno lite/deore hubs, Avid BB7s, Avid speed dial 7 levers, deore shifters and im down to 30lbs.

these were all upgrades that were needed, but not for weight loss. im just glad there was some.

$250 to shed 3 pounds isnt cheap weight loss lol


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

chrisg67 said:


> $250 to shed 3 pounds isnt cheap weight loss lol


Actually, that's really cheap for 3 pounds. $1 for 1 gram is usually considered good.


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## chrisg67 (Jun 9, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Actually, that's really cheap for 3 pounds. $1 for 1 gram is usually considered good.


whoa. i guess when you start getting in the lower 20lbs it has to be a money pit. thankfully for my wallet im not there yet


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Once you ride a lightweight bike, you'll see why we do it.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

If your gonna compare a 22lb bike to a 33lb bike you're surely gonna feel the difference. But for a couple of pounds not so much. If you're in a race and looking every advantage for that fraction of a second faster time to the finish line than maybe it's worth it, but training on a heavier bike could/would benifit you and is probly more durable also. 
Can't help but to think of the numerous times I've seen guys with guts hanging over their tights, or guys so overweight they wouldn't be caught dead in tights, picking up bikes at the lbs to check weight. Now that's some funny [email protected] 
If your parts aren't performing to your liking, or broken, or made out of lead, go for it. Otherwise, take a dump before your ride and you'll be sure to save a pound or 3 for free. LOL.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

theMeat, have you ever tried a good, light bike?

Guess what, the difference a 22 and 33 pound bike is 5 "couple of pounds". The weight savings add up, and you need to start somewhere. 

A light weight bike, done properly, is more durable than a cheap, heavy one.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

^^^
Just glanced at your profile - I wondered what "lightweight" means to you.

A Schwinn Homegrown singlespeed... that's quite a standard for anything else to live up to. Probably lighter than my road bike. :thumbsup:

I don't know the weights of any of my bikes. It's in the "don't wanna know" category until I get my Master's, and hopefully a job that gives me the buying power to move it into the "I can afford to do better" category. Or fate hands me a lightweight hardtail frame that's more reasonable to weight-weenie. Whichever comes first.  Lighter rims have made my current bike more fun, though, and when I switched to lighter tubes and tires mid-season, it made the bike more fun too. Lightening up the front end is huge! Makes me curious to try one of those <600g carbon forks, and see if I still like suspension. (Especially since my suspension fork is "on vacation" as of yesterday.)

And I agree - with intelligent choices, light doesn't need to mean fragile.

I think one of the things that keeps turning me off when I try full-suspension bikes (tried another one, GT Sensor Expert 29er, yesterday) is that they're f'ing heavy, and frequently kinda top heavy. I keep trying to hop on one that's for people who use bikes the way I do - a Specialized Epic, for example. But demo tours seem to have a thing for long-travel bikes. One of these days, I'll get to try one on a long, rocky descent and maybe then I'll say, "OMG, I can't believe I thought I had a real mountain bike." But for flat or uphill singletrack, not so much, and that's where races are won.

I don't think there's an advantage to training on a heavier bike. I think it's stupid. On race day, I tend to ride a little faster and maybe not quite as cleanly as on training days. If I was riding something more responsive than usual, I think it would screw up my handling even more. If I want to build strength on training days, I do intervals or ride hilly routes. It's a matter of power output, and my heart, legs and lungs have no idea how much the bike weighs - just how hard I'm working. I can work hard and go slower or I can work hard and go faster. One of them also keeps me accustomed to the way my racing bike handles.

I guess this is somewhat at odds with my "don't try to weight-weenie it" post. Although I think my real bottom line was "do the fork and the tires, then start looking for a frame that's light to begin with, and don't compromise function." $/gram is supposed to be better on lightweight frames than moving parts.


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## chrisg67 (Jun 9, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Once you ride a lightweight bike, you'll see why we do it.


i rode my friends cannondale optimo last weekend., it weighs in just shy of 25lbs. i gotta say, im jealous. it accelerates so well. some day ill get there, but i have more weight to lose than my bike right now


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

bad mechanic said:


> theMeat, have you ever tried a good, light bike?
> 
> Guess what, the difference a 22 and 33 pound bike is 5 "couple of pounds". The weight savings add up, and you need to start somewhere.
> 
> A light weight bike, done properly, is more durable than a cheap, heavy one.


Yeah thats true and weight does make a difference and the lighter parts are more durable than the cheap heavy crap.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

bad mechanic said:


> theMeat, have you ever tried a good, light bike?
> 
> Guess what, the difference a 22 and 33 pound bike is 5 "couple of pounds". The weight savings add up, and you need to start somewhere.
> 
> A light weight bike, done properly, is more durable than a cheap, heavy one.


Yes, have a few very light bikes that I love. 
Don't understand what "5 couple of pounds" is but my point is just that a big difference in weight will be noticed, like 33 compared to 22, whereas for most riders a couple of pounds won't. More so if going from 25 to 22, than from 33 to 30 but stil.......
You're right but I'm not arguing the fact that a quality light weight bike isn't more durable than a cheap heavy 1. 
Again, my point is just that if you want a light bike, it makes more sense to buy another bike that's light, instead of making your 33 pound bike light. This way you'll have 2 bikes or can sell the heavy 1. So yes, "you need to start somewhere" but think the classifieds is a better place for the thread starter to start, unless he likes to have 1 light bike, and a lighter wallet also.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

theMeat said:


> Yes, have a few very light bikes that I love.
> Don't understand what "5 couple of pounds" is but my point is just that a big difference in weight will be noticed while for most riders a couple of pounds won't. More so if going from 25 to 22, than from 33 to 30.
> You're right but I'm not arguing the fact that a quality light weight bike isn't more durable than a cheap heavy 1.
> Again, my point is just that if you want a light bike, it makes more sense to buy another bike that's light, instead of making your 33 pound bike light. This way you'll have 2 bikes or can sell the heavy 1. So yes, "you need to start somewhere" but think the classifieds is a better place for the thread starter to start, unless he likes to have 1 light bike, and a lighter wallet also.


I'm just trying to say a big chunk of weight is maybe up of little chunks of weight.

But I think we both agree it's better and cheaper to just buy a lighter bike to start with when you're looking at a 33 pound starting point.

For the record, I <3 my Homegrown singlespeed.


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## jstaples (Apr 27, 2010)

I also have a HardRock. It's about 34 pounds, but it takes everything I can throw at and I am not a small guy. When I have outgrown this bike (soon) I will just be buying a new one. A year ago it was hard for me to justify spending $600 on a bike, but now that I know this is something I love I have no problem spending a few grand. Still cheaper than trying to "upgrade" my Hardrock.

The owner of one of the bike shops I go to rides a rigid Ti 29er 3 speed. That thing is superlight. Just wish I had the legs and lungs to ride that. For now though I still need that granny gear. But if you want a superlight bike singlespeed rigid is the cheapest way to get there.


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

There's no point putting a carbon fiber hood and magnesuim wheels on a 1 tonne dually.

I'm rocking my 37lb freeride bike for everything these days... even tho I have a 23lb xc bike.
Not claiming to be a superstar, 42yrs old with a desk job and a hanker'n for ale.
The big bike works me over, and that is part of riding, getting a good workout.Speed comes with strength and skills. Rock the bike you have till you can buy a proper lightweight.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

theMeat said:


> Yes, have a few very light bikes that I love.
> Don't understand what "5 couple of pounds" is but my point is just that a big difference in weight will be noticed, like 33 compared to 22, whereas for most riders a couple of pounds won't. More so if going from 25 to 22, than from 33 to 30 but stil.......
> You're right but I'm not arguing the fact that a quality light weight bike isn't more durable than a cheap heavy 1.
> Again, my point is just that if you want a light bike, it makes more sense to buy another bike that's light, instead of making your 33 pound bike light. This way you'll have 2 bikes or can sell the heavy 1. So yes, "you need to start somewhere" but think the classifieds is a better place for the thread starter to start, unless he likes to have 1 light bike, and a lighter wallet also.


I can tell a huge difference between my ht that was at almost 34lbs and with carbon bar, seatpost, seat and manitou fork it is currently at 30lbs, especially on the climbs.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

bad mechanic said:


> I'm just trying to say a big chunk of weight is maybe up of little chunks of weight.
> 
> But I think we both agree it's better and cheaper to just buy a lighter bike to start with when you're looking at a 33 pound starting point.
> 
> For the record, I <3 my Homegrown singlespeed.


This is true especially circular weight. Even lighter tubes make a difference you can feel. If you take a few hundred grams out of a lot of places on your bike, over time that makes a huge difference in the weight.


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## jalopy jockey (Jun 7, 2007)

Mike H. said:


> There's no point putting a carbon fiber hood and magnesuim wheels on a 1 tonne dually.
> 
> I'm rocking my 37lb freeride bike for everything these days... even tho I have a 23lb xc bike.
> Not claiming to be a superstar, 42yrs old with a desk job and a hanker'n for ale.
> The big bike works me over, and that is part of riding, getting a good workout.Speed comes with strength and skills. Rock the bike you have till you can buy a proper lightweight.


Just weighed my bikes both in the mid low 30s (including my single speed) fully equiped with tools and such. so ridden weight. My wife's bike 27lbs. who is faster? You guessed it me. Now if I had a nice light woudl i be faster sure but until i have money falling out of my pockets (aka kids out of daycare) I'm in no hurry.

Are you having fun?


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

I noticed the weight for sure when I changed from a 100mm ht to a 120mm fs bike. The ht is 11 kilo and the fs is 12.5 kilo I think that like 5lb difference. It makes a difference when you are climbing for sure so if you can shed a few lbs it will help performance.


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

jalopy jockey said:


> Just weighed my bikes both in the mid low 30s (including my single speed) fully equiped with tools and such. so ridden weight. My wife's bike 27lbs. who is faster? You guessed it me. Now if I had a nice light woudl i be faster sure but until i have money falling out of my pockets (aka kids out of daycare) I'm in no hurry.
> 
> Are you having fun?


Actually, I have more fun on my heavy weight bike than I do on my light bike.
When I'm on the big bike I just ride. I push myself physically, but I'm simply riding my bike.
When I get on the little bike, I feel like I must go fast, I end up timing my rides and watching the ave. speed reading on the computer and stressing about whereter I'm getting faster or not.

I've just gotten back into mtn biking after a two year couch lounging session.
For the first 2 months I rocked the light bike, and was getting discouraged with my progression. So, I gave up, and jumped on the big bike thinking, it doesn't go fast, so no point worrying about, just ride and have fun., don't even run a computer on that thing as it's just not a speedster when pedaling. Never once though about my progression, just enjoyed riding. Last week for grins I grabbed my little bike and rocked my after work ride. Riding the big bike for a month made me so much stronger that it allowed me to cruise the loop 6kmh faster ave. speed than I had been running it.
Something to be said about riding a heavy bike. Even tho I was not even trying to get stronger/faster, it was happening.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Take the computer off the light bike...


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

Mmmm...
My freeride bike was 42lbs off the showroom floor. It ran all sturdy DH parts.
I bought:
mavic SX wheelset (tubless) $700.
synchros bar $80
thomson 4x stem $110.
thomson elite seat post $100
WTB Ti saddle $120.
Raceface Dues crank set $175
Wellgo magnesium pedals $60
XT cassette $75.
XT shifters $110
XT shadowderailleur $120.


Grand total, $1650 and my bike sits at 37lbs... a 5lbs difference
Keep in mind this is going from heavy DH gear to light all mountain and light xc gear that nets huge weight savings. 

Advertised weights and math would put the bike at just under 35lbs, but, guess what, advertised weights vs installed weights are not always equal.

Say you get everything 1/2 price, thats still $825 for 5lbs.

Save your money, get a new bike next season.

BTW, I'm not trying boast, simply showing a real word situation.
My wife had a really good job at the time, we have no kids... I am the only income now, and I am having to save for new tires.


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

bad mechanic said:


> Take the computer off the light bike...


LOL! I don't know what is wrong with me... I just can't do it.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Mike H. said:


> LOL! I don't know what is wrong with me... I just can't do it.


Fast and without looking - like a Band Aid. :thumbsup:


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

bad mechanic said:


> Take the computer off the light bike...


+1. Almost all training data from the computer on a mountain bike is completely useless. I log times only, with a runner's watch, and I pretty much only log saddle time. Helps me keep from doing something stupid with my volume, but since I've managed to avoid clocking myself on routes and I tend to vary some details, orders of things, etc., I have no way of knowing, or judging myself for, how fast I'm doing a particular ride vs. the last time. If I want to do a structured workout on my mountain bike, which I never have but I guess I can imagine, the watch and my effort level are enough information.

I have to admit, though, that I've been getting a kick out of strava.com. I'm an okay climber, so I frequently get those little achievement things if I make a GPS track.  Probably says more about the other people uploading tracks, but it's fun.


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## wannabeswifter (Sep 13, 2009)

I can take off my computer, but I'll keep my bell. A little ring before a blind corner
has saved me from more than one close encounter of the nasty kind.


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## Gary H (Dec 16, 2006)

Building a light bike does come with a cost but if you do your homework, its not that bad. I just built this bike and I know it might be a little expensive for the newer guys at ~3k. But for the weight weenies/gram geeks is a very sensible build at 23.4lbs. You can get light without going full XTR or running some exotic road bike stuff that will break or wear out in a few hundred miles.

Voodoo Bokor frame.
SLX HC cranks.
Wellgo MG1 peddles.
White brothers fork.
Mavic 717/XT wheels.
Kenda Karmas.
Sram X9 front and rear and shifters.
CK headset.
Seat post and stem, Thomson.
Saddle Arione.
Bars, Easton EA-70.
Brakes, Avid BB7.


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## Ice Cold (Aug 20, 2008)

I recently lost 5 lbs I'll just consider that 5 Lbs off my bike. 

And I did 

- Carbon Fiber Handle bars
- Carbon fiber seat post
- Hydraulic brakes Avid Elixr CR's
- New lights Pedals

Dropped about another 3lbs from bike down to 25lbs I'd guess.


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## stefan1979 (Jun 18, 2014)

Similar to many people here, I started my mountain biking life with a Hardrock (specifically, a Hardrock 2007 Sport Disc). After two years, almost all of the components failed at pretty much on the same time. I decided to buy a new bike rather than replace them, but sat on a lot of bikes, and none fitted me as well as the Hardrock. So I ended up spending about £450 on carefully-selected parts, including a Mavic XM719 / Shimano XT rear wheel, XT front derailleur, SLX rear derailleur, Deore chainset, LX disc brakes, new tyres and a decent front fork.

Five years later, the bike is still going strong, and the money was very well spent. I have no idea what it weighs though.


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## EABiker (Jun 24, 2004)

Since nobody asked, I will. How much do YOU weigh? Can you lose 8 lbs? It would be cheaper, and have more benefits overall.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

stefan1979 said:


> Similar to many people here, I started my mountain biking life with a Hardrock (specifically, a Hardrock 2007 Sport Disc). After two years, almost all of the components failed at pretty much on the same time. I decided to buy a new bike rather than replace them, but sat on a lot of bikes, and none fitted me as well as the Hardrock. So I ended up spending about £450 on carefully-selected parts, including a Mavic XM719 / Shimano XT rear wheel, XT front derailleur, SLX rear derailleur, Deore chainset, LX disc brakes, new tyres and a decent front fork.
> 
> Five years later, the bike is still going strong, and the money was very well spent. I have no idea what it weighs though.


I got back into riding with the Comp Disc in 2007. So your story has a little resonance for me.

I moved in 2008 and then the US economy freaked out. I lost my job and had a ton of time to ride. I "knew" I should start over with a new bike with Deore+ everywhere, but couldn't put together that kind of money. I ended up being reactive rather than active, but by this time last year, I'd replaced everything but the seatpost and finished another degree.

So I'm back to a full-time J-O-B now and I did end up buying a shiny new bike with Deore+ (well, mostly X7, but whatever) everywhere. But the Hardrock is sitting next to my desk at work and I ride it during lunch sometimes. Kind of a nice outcome for me, I think.  I don't know the weight on it, or any of my bikes, though.


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## 70sSanO (Nov 20, 2013)

FWIW...

Upgrading a bike that is not worth upgrading really only works if:

!) You intend to to keep that bike from now on and are honestly not really going to get another bike, or...
2) You intend to build up, not buy a complete, another bike frame in the future using the upgraded parts, and...
3) You do all of the work and not a shop, but...
4) You realize go into it that this approach will cost you more than buying a bike, but the trade-off is being able to set it up, and future bikes, like you want it/them.

You just need to be very careful that whatever you buy will have a home down the road. There is nothing wrong with putting XTR or X-0 and Fox on a less expensive bike if you can just pull it off and put it onto a frame that you really want someday. The only real issue arises when you no longer want a particular wheel size or frame type and you are left with a bunch of expensive parts collecting dust.

On a hardtail, if you get frames that work with the upgraded fork (steerer tube diameter and length, and fork travel), the only things that need to be swapped are potentially the seatpost and front derailleur; possibly cable housings and cables which are cheap.

John


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

Loosing body weight is irrelevant to the effects of loosing bike weight.
Every experienced rider knows this.
I fluctuate between 170lbs and 155lbs, I have a 37lb free ride mountain bike and a 29lb all mountain bike.
I assure you, acceleration, flickability, lunge maneuvers etc etc are easier and less fatiguing on the 29lb bike when I weigh 170lbs than on the 37lb bike when I weigh 155lbs.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Just thought I'd mention that this thread had been quiet for about three years before stefan's post.


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## Mike H. (Aug 28, 2006)

Thanks for your invaluable input on a topic that is as relevant and often discussed today as it has been since the inception performance cycling.

Obviously Stefan was using search, I will take this opportunity to commend him rather than creating a new thread as is often the case.


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## blackitout (Jun 30, 2014)

I'm going to write here in case future readers find this helpful

I've always been a believer in ride what you want and upgrade how you want to. It may not be the most cost saving way to do things however I keep my bikes a long time. My first one I learned everything on is 21 years old (I still have it)

My second one I bought a 4 months ago. A Diamondback Response. I've shaved 3.6lbs off of it and it cost me $400. It was a $400 bike and I spent $400. I'm not sure how much a $800 bike weighs these days but I doubt there's one that is 28.9lbs (not that I've seen. I don't spend hours looking around comparing bikes). So to me it was a good Idea. Not everyone is like this. Most would rather buy a different bike or pay over $1000 for one. I've never been that kind of guy. I bet I can buy a new wheelset and shave another pound off of it. This is just another perspective on the whole "buy a new bike" mantra.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I got my bike down to 23 pounds. Cost me $1700 to do it. I bought a new bike...bwahaha. With some more money I can drop it to 20 pounds easy, not cheaply, but easily.


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## blackitout (Jun 30, 2014)

Nubster said:


> I got my bike down to 23 pounds. Cost me $1700 to do it. I bought a new bike...bwahaha. With some more money I can drop it to 20 pounds easy, not cheaply, but easily.


that's when I buy a lighter frame and move parts I've already bought over to that one. That's when I'll get this Response down to 23lbs haha


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## velo99 (Apr 18, 2014)

I am an old tightwad. I buy used if possible, get it like I want it then use it til it dies. My last upgrade was going from an Acera to Alivio rear mech. The mantra is in full effect. Break it, buy the next higher quality part. Note I said higher quality not necessarily more expensive. I will spend a month searching for my price point. 
Then again that's just me.


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## velo99 (Apr 18, 2014)

I am an old tightwad. I buy used if possible, get it like I want it then use it til it dies. My last upgrade was going from an Acera to Alivio rear mech. The mantra is in full effect. Break it, buy the next higher quality part. Note I said higher quality not necessarily more expensive. I will spend a month searching for my price point. 
Then again that's just me.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I'm a little more conservative about my rear derailleur. I figure if it's a part that I fall on and break more often than I wear it out, I'd just as soon keep a little more money in my pocket.


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## Petti the Yeti (May 30, 2011)

Not sure why this old thread ended up back on first page of this forum, but I'll chip in. 

I ride a currently 38 pound 7" travel freeride bike for everything, including XC. In my opinion, there's no reason to worry that much about weight. Just get out and ride the bike you will have the most fun on. Generally, that's a bike you already own, exactly as it is. Not worrying about a new fangled $1900 trail bike, not an old bike strapped up with $1900 worth of parts to make it lighter. 

If you break something, or wear something out, by all means, make light weight upgrades if you feel like they will improve your performance. But don't go throwing credit cards at your bike just to make it lighter if that's your only reason for doing so.


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## Mohammedqur (Jun 7, 2012)

I was surprised when I discovered that my stumpjumber comp is 25 lbs. never thought about it but was a nice surprise. It's 2009 and I'm sure newer are lighter. You might want to look for used HTs that fit your goals. It'll be a lot cheaper.


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