# Pedals! Won't! Come! Off! AAAARGH!



## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

My old crappy stupid shimano pedals won't come off! I think the LBS over-torqued them or something when I bought the bike, and now they are completely seized up.

I've tried both loosening agents and brute force/leverage, and nothing doin' except ruining two 15 mm wrenches and scratching the hell out of the old pedals (so much for selling them). 

My next step is to go buy a pedal wrench from the LBS for a zillion dollars, something I was hoping not to have to do (I've gotten by without one for 15 years). But given my difficulties up to this point, I'm doubtful that even that is going to work.

Any tips from the pros? I can't afford to buy a new crankset just because my F#@king pedals won't come off.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Non-drive side has a reverse thread, so you're turning clockwise to loosen. I tend to use a rubber-headed mallet to apply a short impact on stubborn pedals. Holding the wrench as near to the crank as possible will allow you to hold it it securely and still focus on your hammer action. Don't forget grease or anti-sieze compound when you refit pedals.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

You could also take the bike to the LBS to have them break the pedals loose with their zillion dollar pedal wrench.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

I'll second everything steveUK said and will add that, unless you have a narrow purchase area on your pedals, you shouldn't need to ditch a good 15mm wrench. 
My Wellgo platforms fit perfectly with my Craftsman, but my Times are too narrow, luckily I can use an allen wrench on those. That can get confusing too because you're working form the backside of the crank combined with the reversed threads. 
To combat this, I've learned to spin the wrench in the same direction relative to the _bike itself_ and not "lefty-loosy / righty-tighty" - For instance, If I loosen the pedal, the wrench will ALWAYS turn in opposite direction as the forward spin of cranks / wheels (and the inverse is true). This is kinda handy to quickly 'spin-off / on' pedals. 
Once a pedal is loose, I simply grasp the spindle and pedal (normal direction); ~7-9 quick revolutions later the pedal is out! Again, to re-install, I start the threads, grip the spindle and backpedal away - Very easy once you get your mind wrapped around that 

-sorry this is so long for something so simple - hope this helps!


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

Thanks guys. The pedals do have a very narrow flat area, so the wrench slips sideways off the area onto the spindle. After trying numerous times, this has started to shave small amounts of metal off of the edges of my 15mm wrenches--both craftsman wrenches. So I guess the wrenches haven't been totally ruined, but they aren't doing the job, nor is the crescent wrench that I've tried.

There is a spot to use an allen wrench, but I can't get enough torque using that to get it to budge. 

I guess I should get over my injured pride and just take the damned thing into the LBS rather than buy a wrench, as Rocky suggested.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

hey Oracle...here's something you could try before you grab your purse and head out to the LBS  ...If you can, use a small (4-5") C-clamp to firmly hold the wrench onto the pedal / crank interface; this should keep it from twisting off. Then, with a few good wraps with a dead-blow (or similar) on the end of the wrench it should be enough. Put some tape on the jaws of the clamp to prevent marring the crank.

*edit - Using a second C-clamp you can clamp on a 'thick' piece of flat steel or similar to the back-side of the crank to lengthen the 'clamping area' if your cranks are too rounded or short for the C-Clamp to get a good grip.

AGAIN! - be certain you're going the correct direction!! (drive side= 'normal')

BTW..what kind of pedals / cranks?


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

I've tried the hammer method, but didn't think of using a C-clamp to hold the wrench on. that's a good idea.

Pedals are shimano spd clipless circa 2004, crank is shimano hollowtech LX--fcm572, I think the number is.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Oracle7775 said:


> ...
> Pedals are shimano spd clipless circa 2004, crank is shimano hollowtech LX--fcm572, I think the number is.


I went and had a look at those...from what I can see in photos, I think you should be able to get a C-clamp to hold (if need-be see my above edit)

Good Luck Dude:thumbsup: - keep us posted


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

FINALLY. Success.

I ended up buying the park tool pedal wrench, because I needed a wrench that was skinny enough to sit just on the flats of the pedal. It was only 10 bucks--more than worth the hassle of loading the bike on the rack in negative five degree temps (30 below windchill) and lugging it down to the LBS so they could charge me 20. I used the wrench combined with C clamps, and several HARD swings with a rubber mallet to finally crack it free on both sides.

Finally I have my new Time Z's mounted. Of course, the irony is that it is currently negative 10 degrees outside and there's no way I can run them in in this weather. Oh well, temps forcast in the 20's over the weekend. Time to load up the studded tires and ride!


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Right on man!!:thumbsup:


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

Hope you remembered to put anti-sieze or grease on the threads of your new pedals. Plus another great example of "The right tool for the right job". Instead of "fighting" with a job to be done and all the wasted time, effort and probably a few classic swear words like PITA and POS, etc etc...... Good for you!!


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## skiz (Mar 27, 2007)

How could you go 15 years without a pedal wrench... It was the first tool i ever needed to buy way back in my early teens... Props too you for managing though !


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

skiz said:


> How could you go 15 years without a pedal wrench... It was the first tool i ever needed to buy way back in my early teens... Props too you for managing though !


I've never needed a 'pedal' wrench in 30+ years


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_I've never needed a 'pedal' wrench in 30+ years_"

Me neither, but perhaps we're both fortunate and have wrenches which are narrow enough to have fitted in all the pedal/crank combinations we've ever come across. I know people who've found themselves without such a tool and it is at this time that a dedicated pedal spanner is perhaps the most sensible purchase.


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

skiz said:


> How could you go 15 years without a pedal wrench... It was the first tool i ever needed to buy way back in my early teens... Props too you for managing though !


Mostly ignorance, I suppose. 

Really, tho', I don't wrench for a living, and I'm not a pro who switches out pedals/cranks/bikes all of the time, so how often would I need one? In those fifteen years, I think I've taken pedals off of my and my wife's bikes maybe five of six times, total, and (unlike whoever installed the pedals that were the subject of this thread) I always make sure to put anti-sieze on the threads to keep from having this problem.


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## tron (Mar 5, 2004)

I am having the same issue as the OP except I have Eggbeater MXR pedals which only use an allen wrench from the inside to install/remove. I has giving it all I could yesterday but they wouldnt budge. I could have sworn that I greased them before installing and have only been on a couple of ride pulling my kid along in a trailer. Any other tips besides the hammer method? Also, thanks for the tip about what direction to go, it is really confusing.


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## LWright (Jan 29, 2006)

Socket type Allen and a breaker bar.


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## lazybeaner (Sep 28, 2006)

Socket Allen's are one of the best investments. You can use a ratchet or breaker bar with them (and any 3/8"drive extension) and you can use them with a torque wrench. 
I have been using SK allens for 7 years in construction/industrial and they are still in great shape. im sure you can find some lower priced or even single size socket you need at sears or homedepot


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## maximum.minimum (May 4, 2007)

wow, you guys are newbs at getting leverage  

When the heat sealing bolts on my dirtbike got torqued on about double the recommended, they were stuck onto the axle realllly bad.

I took a wrench, and a 10 foot steel pipe, put the pipe around the wrench handle (extending the handle to 10 feet, giving me an enormous ammount of leverage). I barely had to touch the pipe to get the bolts off with that much leverage. 

Just use a pipe to extend the wrench.


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## tron (Mar 5, 2004)

that was my next step. Just dont have a pipe laying around to do it with.


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## Mondoman1 (Jun 2, 2008)

mm's right. A big advantage of the "shop" version of the Park pedal wrench is that it's a lot longer than the consumer version, which is already longer than standard wrenches.


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## LWright (Jan 29, 2006)

Problem is that adding an extension to an Allen wrench can be a tricky job to avoid striping the bolt. It is just plain hard to hold the Allen wrench into the bolt head, not saying it is not possible, but a socket type Allen is so much easier. Plus with a socket you can use an impact wrench, hand, electric or pneumatic. Or just easier to tap it deeper into the bolt while putting pressure to unscrew it. (the original impact wrench)
And yes I have used a cheater bar/pipe many times


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## LWright (Jan 29, 2006)

tron said:


> that was my next step. Just dont have a pipe laying around to do it with.


 Got a Crescent wrench? Or a box end wrench? Socket and extension? There are many different ways to provide more leverage, just placing the tool so that you can pull against it and the crank to each other can do wonders.


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

maximum.minimum said:


> wow, you guys are newbs at getting leverage
> 
> When the heat sealing bolts on my dirtbike got torqued on about double the recommended, they were stuck onto the axle realllly bad.
> 
> ...


That's exactly what I did that ended up wrecking my 15 mm wrench--I stuck it in the end of a 4 foot pipe and heaved. Because the flats on the pedal were too narrow, the wrench kept slipping off the flat and onto the round part of the pedal, shaving off the pedal's protective coating and rounding out the wrench in the process.


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## Oracle7775 (Oct 31, 2008)

since I started this thread and I love to show off my winter upgrades, here's a pics of the new Time Z pedals, along with my new Hone cranks and XTR FD. Rest assured, I used anti-sieze on the pedals and they are torqued to spec!



















I have to say, the Times really look awesome with the Hone cranks. Now if the temps outside would only get above 5 degrees ....


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## sq225917 (Dec 28, 2008)

easiest way to remember how to undo them is that all pedals loosen from the rear wheel downwards.

ie point the open end of your spanner at the rear hub and pull down..

Basically just stand on the spanner from behind the pedal..


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

"Zillion Dollar Pedal Wrench"=$25

*not that I have one, though.


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## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

highdelll said:


> I've never needed a 'pedal' wrench in 30+ years


Well sure you _could_ use an open-ended wrench and a c-clamp but why bother? I got my pedal wrench for about $15 and it's got a nice padded handle and it's offset so you don't bang your knuckles on your crank. Well worth the 'investment IMO'.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Khemical said:


> Well sure you _could_ use an open-ended wrench and a c-clamp but why bother? I got my pedal wrench for about $15 and it's got a nice padded handle and it's offset so you don't bang your knuckles on your crank. Well worth the 'investment IMO'.


Judging by your response, I can only assume you didn't read the whole post (OP having trouble w/ wrench torquing/twisting off 'nut') or you did not understand the methodology of my statement (C-Clamp pressing wrench against a backing - either a flare in the pedal nut or the crank itself)
Having a big padded wrench will not help you if it's slipping off of the 'purchase area' (where wrench makes contact w/ nut/bolt). Clamping a wrench is an old technique to maintain parallel alignment with a bolt or nut - not just in the bike world. Not only will it help for setting up longer wrenches where slippage is possible; it will also allow you to 'hammer' a wrench to break it loose w/out shifting.
Sorry for any confusion. I'm lucky enough to have had a bench-grinder to shave a "normal" 'open end':thumbsup:


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

One other bit of advice: take the crankarm off and clamp it in a soft vise. Your leverage improves that way...


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## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

highdelll said:


> Judging by your response, I can only assume you didn't read the whole post (OP having trouble w/ wrench torquing/twisting off 'nut') or you did not understand the methodology of my statement (C-Clamp pressing wrench against a backing - either a flare in the pedal nut or the crank itself)
> Having a big padded wrench will not help you if it's slipping off of the 'purchase area' (where wrench makes contact w/ nut/bolt). Clamping a wrench is an old technique to maintain parallel alignment with a bolt or nut - not just in the bike world. Not only will it help for setting up longer wrenches where slippage is possible; it will also allow you to 'hammer' a wrench to break it loose w/out shifting.
> Sorry for any confusion. I'm lucky enough to have had a bench-grinder to shave a "normal" 'open end':thumbsup:


No, I understand what you said I and I think the c-clamp idea is a great one. My response was aimed at the OP that thinks pedal wrenches are some kind of gold-plated tools out of the reach of the backyard mechanic. Like I said I got mine for somewhere around $15-20 bucks (can't remember exactly). I've had if for years and it works great. Never slips and always gets the pedals off. The right tool for the job as they say :thumbsup:

On a completely separate topic I noticed you have exactly 666 posts....:devil::cornut:


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

^^^ I Gotchya


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