# Hub bearing removal too difficult



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

Hi,
I wanted to replace my DT Swiss M1900 bearings, both on front and rear wheel.

Whilst I've succeded in replacing the non-drive bearing in the rear wheel, I've not in the front wheel even though I've bought a slidehammer.

In fact, it seems that the teeths of the tool are not able to hook behind the bearing since it seems there is not enough space due to the inner spacer.
Therefore, when I give some good strikes on the tool, it pulls off the bearing!















I've already tried to move the inner spacer by hand or with some plastic tool, but it does not move!

Have you got any suggestion?

Thanks in advance,
Marco


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

A bearing extractor like this works best-



Google Image Result for https://wheelsmfg.com/pub/media/wysiwyg//bearing_extractors/PRESS-5_step-5.jpg


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

macro182 said:


> Hi,
> I wanted to replace my DT Swiss M1900 bearings, both on front and rear wheel.
> 
> Whilst I've succeded in replacing the non-drive bearing in the rear wheel, I've not in the front wheel even though I've bought a slidehammer.
> ...


Usually there is a floating axle in the middle of that style of hub, the floating axle can be moved so you can use a drift to punch out the bearings from the opposite side. A blind bearing puller is not the right tool for the job, because there are no "lips" for it to grab.


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

Thank you for the advice, eventually I've tried with a screwdriver and a hammer (because the drift didn't work, it was slipping away).
Anyway, I've tried hitting as hard as I could by rotating the hit point about 90 degrees, but the bearing is still in place. I've even used some WD-40 that soaked bearing for a couple of hours.

Where I'm wrong?


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

macro182 said:


> Where I'm wrong?


The pic is a bit fuzzy so it's hard to say for sure. If you can actually get a screwdriver or sharp edged drift punch on the edge of the bearing you should be able to knock it out by tapping one side and then 180° on the other. Eventually it should go.

If you can't get anything solidly on the bearing then the aforementioned bearing puller is the best bet.


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

I post an interesting video in which this guy uses a dynaplug instead of expensive tools (the mechanism is the same of the Wheels tool that I can't find here in Italy).


----------



## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

I have found on my DT Swiss hub (350) that the floating axle was just a tiny bit too long and when bearings were fully seated, it did not allow for the floating axle to, well 'float' (I fixed by grinding off a bit of length and re-installing). As was mentioned, when properly installed, you should be able to move the floating axle out of way to give you access to the inside edge of the bearing so you have a spot to place punch. If not, just use your slide hammer to pull the bearing out. I'm not sure what 'lip' is missing but the slide hammer should have a lip that grabs the inner bearing sleeve. You may damage the bearing upon removal but your likely installing new anyway so shouldn't matter.

Just an fyi, unless the bearing in question has extensive wear, I just pop off the outer cover while still in wheel and degrease/clean, repack with grease, and re-install cover. usually no need to completely remove bearings.


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

I've finally succeeded in removing the old bearings! (the heat gun worked like a charm...).


Then, I've reinstalled new bearings: the first went good and spun fine. Then came the aforementioned spacer/floating axle. Lastly I've installed the second bearing and... now both bearings spin very roughly!


What could have been? Is it beacause I've use too much grease and this does not allow bearing to fully seat?


----------



## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

Can you move the floating axle a little to give access to backside of bearing?


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

Unfortunately there is not... Do you suggest to remove and reinstall bearings using less force or to grind off the spacer?


In that latter case might I have some issues (e.g. Dust)?

Thanks


----------



## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

yes, your having same problem I faced. The floating axle is just a bit too long so not only does it not move out of the way like it is supposed to, giving access to back side of the bearing for easier removal but it causes pressure on both inner bearing sleeve, resulting in high friction (in my case they were frozen). The floating axle is made of soft aluminum so a couple passes with a metal file is all it needs. Just make sure you keep the axle at 90 degrees to file so you get a nice flat cut. Take some sand paper to clean up the burrs and reinstall. I suppose you could just omit the floating axle altogether (not sure what purpose of it is).


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

Ok thanks you I m going to try.

Any suggestion on how to reinstall those washers without going crazy? Removal with vice it's so straightforward...


----------



## Jetta2010 (Jan 15, 2012)

you mean those o-rings?


----------



## macro182 (Jan 9, 2021)

Jetta2010 said:


> View attachment 1934207
> you mean those o-rings?


Not exactly, I mean those black rings made of aluminium that retain the outer caps. I don't know if I'm having trouble in reinstalling them since I've made too much use of the hammer during this service!

By the way, I managed to let those bearings roll. It seems that only trying to remove one of them has given that little room to the inner spacer which unloaded the bearings themselves.
Same thing with freehub bearing.

My lesson learned is that bearings have to be only slightly seated and not tight pressed.


----------

