# i need grease!



## dangdang (May 13, 2009)

What is a good grease to use... on say pedal threads? or what about repacking hubs?
I am in need of something kind of heavy duty. Suggestions please.


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## Cyclogenesis (Jul 4, 2008)

You are looking for two different greases...

Threads etc... I use Park grease... for bearings and high velocity I use a lower viscosity grease "Phil's" I picked up from the LBS...


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Cyclogenesis said:


> You are looking for two different greases...
> 
> Threads etc... I use Park grease... for bearings and high velocity I use a lower viscosity grease "Phil's" I picked up from the LBS...


You can use the same grease for both, so you are NOT looking at two different greases. You can get gouged at the LBS for a 3oz tube of Phil Wood or Park which are very good greases or you can stop by a motosport or autoparts store and pick up a 16oz tub of Marine or Waterproof Grease (I recommend Aluminum based over Lithium Complex for maximum water resistance if needed) for the same price.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I used to use some red automotive grease I had layin' around because I had it layin' around. I broke a pedal on a ride the other day and went down the road to the shop to get a replacement pair and grabbed a tube of Park grease for the threads. It seems much slicker than the automotive grease and doesn't smell as bad. Win-win for me.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

On threads it's usually better to use anti-seize as opposed to straight grease.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

I use just regular auto hub grease that I've had laying around for threads and such. I use marine grease that I keep in a grease gun to service may tractor and bushhog when repacking bearings. I have thinned the grease a little with wet lube. Bike-specific stuff may (or may not) be better, but I have this on hand.


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

*Automotive...*

greases are certainly usable. However they are usually a bit on the thick side for bike use. Also they're a bit of overkill as well. Automotive bearing grease is designed for high temperatures and heavy load. Bike bearings just don't see the loads or high temps involved in automotive applications. That's not to say they aren't usable, they're just not ideal for bike applications. I've used marine bearing grease in a pinch, and it works quite well, and is VERY water proof. My preference is for Park Poly Lube 2000. Water proof, great lubrication properties, and costs less than many other bike specific greases. It comes in a 4 oz. easy to use tube for around $5, or a 16 oz. tub for around $12. The tub will last a LONG time, and it'll work well for 90% of your grease needs on your bike. There are some exceptions of course. There are components out there that require a specific lubricant, King Hubs, and the like, that work best with a lubricant that is designed specifically for them. Otherwise, for general every day use the Park Poly works great.

Good Dirt


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

MY opinions/experiences Only. smile. 
Grease, chain lubes. tires, components, saddles and a few other things are mostly a matter of personal preference. If you were to ask 5 people on any of those subjects you'd probably get 8 answers, again, based on their experiences. For ME, ANY grease is better than None!! 
However thru the few days I've been ridding, I've used Finishline, Castrol, (a few I can't remember), Quacker State, Campy and for the last 10 or so years, EPX by Pro-gold. 

Presently I am doing a little experiment of my own and took a small golb of Campy and EPX and put them in to individual cups with water and tightened the lids tightly. Been over a year and a half and they both are just sitting there, no dissolving, or breaking down. 
I agree with some folks above, and I prefer "never-seize" (I use one made by NAPA), on threads, like BB cups, pedals, and cassette locknuts. That is just me.
IF you don't have never-seize, Definetly put grease on BB and pedal threads.
Good luck to you all.


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## ResurrectedNOOB (Sep 9, 2010)

If you're looking for a deal, I got this this morning;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NVCI0Q/ref=oss_product

I should be ok for a while with 1 LB of the stuff.


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## derockus (Mar 27, 2009)

I like the TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease. It is clear so it doesn't ooze out all black and green if you over pack it (which I tend to do).

From their site:

_"Tri-Flow® Clear Synthetic Grease is a premium quality, extreme pressure, non-melting, waterproof formula that seals out water contaminants. It is available in handy squeeze tube for easy application and fits nicely in a grease gun. Our grease is compatible with most rubbers and plastic and stands up to extreme temperatures (-10° - +400° F). Guaranteed to optimize the performance of your equipment's moving parts, such as bearings and tracks, and will allow them to last longer and run quieter and smoother. Prevents rusting even when exposed to salt water! Formulated with P.T.F.E."_

I had a tube of Park Polylube 1000. It's greasiness was fine. I left it in the car in a toolbox for a several months and it ended up separating. It was in FL so the temperatures probably got pretty high. But shouldn't a grease be able to handle high temps, certainly the temperatures inside of a car? This was a big turnoff for me so I switched to the TriFlow and I have no complaints.

I also don't bother with a grease gun; I bought a plastic syringe at RiteAid for $2 and it works just as well.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

derockus said:


> I like the TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease. It is clear so it doesn't ooze out all black and green if you over pack it ........it ended up separating. ...


I have a 10 year old tube of Pedro Syn grease I like to use on threads for the same reasons, its clear, it stays put, easily resists high temps, and does not break down or separate over time. Its too thick for bearings imho, i prefer one of the re-packaged automotive/marine bearing grease (slick honey, prepM, Phils, ect...) for that.


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## froggy97 (Oct 16, 2009)

Bad Mechanic said it best, for threads anti-seize/anti-galling

The general rule is:

Lube things that are supposed to move,
Anti-seize on things that shouldn't.
e.g. You don't need to lube a seatpost but you do need protect it if it's a dissimilar metal from the frame. 

There has long been a misconception that bikes need special "proprietary" lubricants. Or that the stuff that your LBS sells is somehow better.

Think about it.

Do you seriously think that Phil Wood or Park has some special recipe for grease or oil? No. They buy what the refinery is already selling. I can buy a 0 or 5 weight oil for a fraction of the price. If my bike need special additives that aren't in the cheap oil, I'll drink it!!!

Bio-Lube? Give me a break. Crude oil is also natural and bio-degradable. Time frame!!! oil breaks down the same way that CFC's do, slowly. They can tack that label on to ANYTHING!!. "Well, if it's buried and pulled under the continental shelf, the heat and pressure of the mantle will destroy it....."

The crap at the LBS is the same thing they sell at PEP boys or Canadian Tire. It's just twice the price for half the volume.

Trailer bearing grease for anything with bearings, light oil or wax cooking for anything else.

Just my opinion. Everybody is free to do or believe what they want.


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## PoorCyclist (Sep 2, 2010)

I have Super Lube 21030 Synthetic grease (it's clear)
Is it suitable for hub bearings.. and around the bike

thanks

http://www.super-lube.com/super-lube-synthetic-grease-tube-3oz-model-21030-p-22.htm


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## Mike Gager (Jul 30, 2010)

i use this for grease

https://www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-105-motor-assembly-grease.html









and this for threads

https://www.permatex.com/products/A...ubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

BTW-it's not quite as water resistant as waterproof greases (like Phil Wood or Bel-Ray) but I have been using this stuff for almost a year now in my bearing hubs and it works VERY WELL, and is more slick than sticky...plus it is a true bio based grease.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

I love Phil Wood waterproof grease. I use it on every single thread on my bike.


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## SmilMick (Apr 9, 2006)

I agree that bike shop lubes are nothing special, but the bicycle companies WILL pick the grease that is best suited to its purpose.

Most multi-purpose marine or automotive greases are so thick that within a couple hundred miles, the grease is pushed out of the way of the path of the bearings and space is made for dirt and grit to do its nasty thing.

Rock and Roll in my opinion is the only company that has lube figured out. I hate wax lubes so I ignore their chain lube, but all of their greases are top notch. They have a few different kinds of greases that are for specific jobs that are clearly described on the website/packaging. 

The RockandRoll Super Web grease is AWESOME for bearings. Enduro uses it in many of their bearings for good reason. It stays where you put it without getting pushed out of the way like so many auto/marine/general purpose greases do. The name "super web" will make alot of sense once you use the stuff for the first time! It gets messy if you dont know how to handle the stuff! RockandRoll super slick is great too. I think it lasts longer than Slick Honey in my suspension. The RockandRoll Red Devil grease is the general purpose grease. Its just like most other general purpose greases, so I wouldnt go out of my way to get it, but it works as advertised. Its good for seat posts and springs within forks.

Phil Wood Water Proof grease is just as bad as any tub of goop you'll find at AutoZone. They are lucky that so many unsuspecting noobies think so highly of them because the grease doesnt have much of a place on any of my bikes thats for sure. Phil tenacious oil is also pretty useless in my opinion. Park grease is so-so. Its consistency is on par with what a bike grease should be, but i dont use it in bearings. I use it for seat posts and threads.

Anti-sieze is TECHNICALLY the superior thing to use for threads, but you should be servicing your bike often enough for it to be a non issue. I dont waste my money on anti-sieze unless its Ti specific stuff on a Ti frame.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

SmilMick said:


> Rock and Roll in my opinion is the only company that has lube figured out...Phil Wood Water Proof grease is just as bad as any tub of goop you'll find at AutoZone. They are lucky that so many unsuspecting noobies think so highly of them because the grease doesnt have much of a place on any of my bikes thats for sure...Anti-sieze is TECHNICALLY the superior thing to use for threads, but you should be servicing your bike often enough for it to be a non issue. I dont waste my money on anti-sieze unless its Ti specific stuff on a Ti frame.


Soooooo, you're spending your money on expensive grease, but *not* spending your money on anti-seize, which you agree is superior for threads? 

Phil Wood flat works. I have used it for 15 years now, and it lubricates well, and does a fine job of resisting break down, water, and dirt.


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## Empty_Beer (Dec 19, 2007)

I'm attending United Bicycle Institute right now... intro course. Ridiculous wealth of knowledge from the instructors. Their products of choice seem to be:

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/dumonde-tech-mr-grease ...bearings, threaded parts, etc.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL307M00-Buzzys+Slick+Honey+All+Purpose+Grease.aspx.... for lightweight lube (on cables inside housing, etc.)

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/dumonde-tech-bicycle-chain-lubrication.... chain lube (yellow bottle)

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CM407F06-Finish+Line+Anti+Seize+Assembly+Lube.aspx ...I forget what this was used for... maybe as an alternative to the Demonde MR Grease.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Empty_Beer said:


> http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL307M00-Buzzys+Slick+Honey+All+Purpose+Grease.aspx.... for lightweight lube (on cables inside housing, etc.)


Just say no to grease inside cable housing.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

bike mechanics arent chemical engineers. its like asking your car mechanic what oil to use.. they might have an opinion, but its more than likely going to be baseless! 

ive used park, phils, marine grease, mobil1, volvo super thin low temp grease, snapon airtool grease.. probably a few more. theres no way anyone can tell any difference in performance between any of these, even from the thickest greases to the thinnest. 

certain hub pawls need thinner viscosity greases, but again thats just a viscosity thing. you just need to pack bearings with something thats going to stay in there for a reasonable amount of time, which any standard thickness grease will do. 

besides hub pawls, ive never found anything that marine grease doesnt work perfect in. its lowest in cost, and theoretically should have better wash out resistance.. but even thats probably not a real issue.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

I've had the same tube of pedros grease for about 7 years now....seems to work fine on everything....
the only time I get specific about what oil/grease to use is in hubs, forks or shocks. Basic stuff like bolt threads etc get the pedros.


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

One Pivot said:


> bike mechanics arent chemical engineers. its like asking your car mechanic what oil to use.. they might have an opinion, but its more than likely going to be baseless!
> 
> *ive used park, phils, marine grease, mobil1, volvo super thin low temp grease, snapon airtool grease.. probably a few more. theres no way anyone can tell any difference in performance between any of these, even from the thickest greases to the thinnest. *
> 
> ...


Great post. At the end of the day it's not _what_ grease you use, but the fact that you use _something_.

Yeah, anyone that says they can feel a difference in performance is full of it.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

That's like Chris King's description of their grease tool for the bottom bracket... They say to use regular grease for rides and lighter grease on race day. Yaay!! I'm gonna go faster!! Dopes.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

I use just a big tub of Moly (molybdenum) for pretty much everything - works great and is super cheap.
IMO, you're a fool if you get 'bike specific' grease.


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## AkumaY (May 19, 2006)

highdelll said:


> I use just a big tub of Moly (molybdenum) for pretty much everything - works great and is super cheap.
> IMO, you're a fool if you get 'bike specific' grease.


this man knows what hes talking about.

i pick marine grade stuff for its waterproofness + designed for bearings, since its literally designed to be submerged in water.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3121-Marine-Trailer-Bearing/dp/B000CPJMY8

this stuff is what i pack all my bearings with

for my hub/freewheel i use gear oil, thickest stuff i have laying around for my cars, which ends up being just the right consistency for the free hub, i also put this stuff in a small dropper bottle and use it on my chain.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Not to derail this thread, but anyone have any input on a good grease gun? I have a hard time shelling out $20+ for one of those little screw-on types, but I am open to suggestions.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-oz-mini-grease-gun-93486.html

the expensive grease guns are 99% identical.


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## grandsalmon (Oct 24, 2005)

jtmartino said:


> Not to derail this thread, but anyone have any input on a good grease gun? I have a hard time shelling out $20+ for one of those little screw-on types, but I am open to suggestions.


Any small moto/saw shop should have the refillable - about $11. or $3.99 as One Pivot found!


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Thanks for the heads up! Picking one up today...got a few bikes that need rebuilding.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

SmilMick said:


> Most multi-purpose marine or automotive greases are so thick that within a couple hundred miles, the grease is pushed out of the way of the path of the bearings and space is made for dirt and grit to do its nasty thing.


The rolling action of a ball bearing pulls grease back in behind the balls. Most bearings are only filled to about 30% with grease, if you add too much grease it can push the seals out. Pushing the seals out is a big problem.
At 30km/h your wheels are going round about 4 times every second, this means the grease between your bearings has to be pushed around about 32 balls every second. Not only does too much grease make it harder for the seals to stay in, it makes it harder to turn the bearing and can even overheat the grease.

If dirt and grit is getting inside the bearing, then you've got far bigger problems than simply which brand of grease you're using.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

One Pivot said:


> bike mechanics arent chemical engineers. its like asking your car mechanic what oil to use.. they might have an opinion, but its more than likely going to be baseless!
> 
> ive used park, phils, marine grease, mobil1, volvo super thin low temp grease, snapon airtool grease.. probably a few more. theres no way anyone can tell any difference in performance between any of these, even from the thickest greases to the thinnest.
> 
> ...


To add to that...I worked in several shops in my 8 years as a mechanic and we used "Automotive" grease in most of them...why, because even at dealer cost it was more expensive to buy "bicycle" grease than to pay retail for automotive grease. And you you know what...it worked perfectly fine. Take a look next time your in a bike shop to see what is being used by the mechanics...there's a pretty good chance it's not the same stuff (well, at least not the same package) they're selling you at the front counter.

And BTW, Phil Wood which is one of the most respected "bicycle" greases there is...is nothing more than Drydene #4000 marine grease.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

mtnbiker72 said:


> And BTW, Phil Wood which is one of the most respected "bicycle" greases there is...is nothing more than Drydene #4000 marine grease.


The problem is, I haven't found any place I can buy Drydene #4000, while Phil Wood is pretty easy to come by though. If you could direct me to a place to buy it, I'd appreciate it.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

bad mechanic said:


> The problem is, I haven't found any place I can buy Drydene #4000, while Phil Wood is pretty easy to come by though. If you could direct me to a place to buy it, I'd appreciate it.


Castrol owns Drydene now...unsure what it is called now. IME of using Phil Wood, Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease is it's equal and about $8 a tub.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I have, and use, a tub of Bel-Ray marine grease, and I just prefer the consistency of Phil/Drydene.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

bad mechanic said:


> I have, and use, a tub of Bel-Ray marine grease, and I just prefer the consistency of Phil/Drydene.


Well, that's what bad (ass) mechanics do!


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

I just want to comment on Dougal's comment. I kinda agree with the theory of what he said, BUT my own little experience with many bearings (since '71), I've "over-packed" tons of sealed bearings and true they turned a bit slower in the beginning. However eventually they loosened up. I've NEVER had any seals "pop out" or get "pushed out". Just my experience, only. 
I'll keep packing bearings, for a few reasons:

A. I KNOW they are packed, no wondering/worry of how much are they lubricated?
B. The wheels, crank, der pulleys just keep spinin'
C. Has worked for me for allll these years, no mechanical's and only one DNF ever(non-mechanical).
D. Uh...........cause I'm a crabbie old man??? And set in my little old ways that WORK!!


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Anti Seize is messy and smells like poop. Unless i am working on Ti I wont use it. I prefer blue loctite (242) since its not messy and doesn't smell like poop. Some mechanics will even claim that loctite works well enough to stop corrosion that you can apply it to Ti -Al, I am skeptical of this claim. If you doubt the importance of anti seize try installing pedal cleats with grease on one side and anti seize or loctite on the other. The loctite cleats will be so much easier to remove down the road where as the grease will often wash out and allow rust to form. I tried this and after one season of riding in the Mid Atlantic region the greased cleat bolts had to be extracted after the heads broke off. the loctite treated cleat on the other hand was easily removed. There was corrosion inside the bolt head but not on the threads.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Loctite definitely blocks corrosion. I used to use it as a marine mechanic for exactly that reason.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

IRONMAN1518 said:


> I just want to comment on Dougal's comment. I kinda agree with the theory of what he said, BUT my own little experience with many bearings (since '71), I've "over-packed" tons of sealed bearings and true they turned a bit slower in the beginning. However eventually they loosened up. I've NEVER had any seals "pop out" or get "pushed out". Just my experience, only.
> I'll keep packing bearings, for a few reasons:
> 
> A. I KNOW they are packed, no wondering/worry of how much are they lubricated?
> ...


That's okay, it's not a problem that's going to get everyone. But the combination of too much grease, the wrong grease and the wrong speed/temperature and it can make a big mess. It's just something to be aware of in case it does strike.


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

I'd love to see some reputable person/group/company/source magazine, etc do a serious, technical testing of all or most available greases out there. (And maybe this has already been done?) One test I am aware of is the 4 ball wear tests: 
Four Ball Wear Test determines a lubricant's antiwear properties under boundary lubrication (metal to metal contact). Three steel balls are clamped together to form a cradle upon which a fourth ball rotates on a vertical axis. The balls are immersed in the oil sample at a specified speed, temperature and load. At the end of a specified test time, the average diameter of the wear scars on the three lower balls is measured. During the test, the load is increased every 10 minutes up to the point where the frictional trace indicates incipient seizure. The coefficient of friction is measured at the end of each 10 min interval. 
This test give wear/temperature info where one can determine which grease/oil/lubricant would meet their needs in the best way.
If anyone knows if this info exists, testing "bicycle lubes" please post it.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

amsoil has a lot of scar testing. not bike specific, but if you're interested that kinda stuff is on their site.

but you gotta keep context in mind. a 5000lbs 2 wheel trailer traveling at highway speeds sees more load in a second than your bike does in its lifetime! i bet if you wiped all the grease out of a bike hub with a dry paper towel, you'd get another season out of it.. maybe two before its trashed. if you did that to a trailer hub, i dont know if you'd make it one mile. admittedly i havent seen all that many loose ball hubs (10 maybe), but ive never seen bluing on bike bearings. ive seen it in automotive though.. fairly common.

i bet the worst possible #2 grease on the market provides enough protection against heat breakdown and wear. our concern is just wash out, and dry out (white lith greases get crusty).


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

One Pivot said:


> i bet the worst possible #2 grease on the market provides enough protection against heat breakdown and wear. our concern is just wash out, and dry out (white lith greases get crusty).


Having looked at literally thousands of cup and cone bearing hubs you have it it pretty much on the nose. What I saw in trashed hubs was either no grease or dried out grease...both of which is a maintenance issue. Heat is generally not the issue (though disc brakes have added a new element on the non-drive side bearing), but water resistance and separation is. I repack my hubs at least once a year (and check them at least monthly, or after really wet rides to make sure they are still rolling smooth). I have yet to ever wear out a cup and cone hub in 18+ year of riding and using mostly Shimano (or similar) hubs.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Rather than risk using the wrong kind of grease it's better to use no grease at all.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Sizzler said:


> Rather than risk using the wrong kind of grease it's better to use no grease at all.


I use an acid paste mixed with pine sap


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

highdelll said:


> I use an acid paste mixed with pine sap


doubles as toothpaste


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

I used Valvoline synthetic grease until I had a carpet cleaner break. The spin brush mechanism on the carpet cleaner was vacuum driven and I read reports that the bushing have a tendency to seize. I disassembled the carpet cleaner and lubed the gears and the bushing with my trusty Valvoline. I reassembled and tested it but the brushes would only spin if I lifted the head of the carpet cleaner. I disassembled the carpet cleaner again and found the Valvoline grease has spun off the gears and out of the bushing. Luckily for me, the manufacturer put in gobbs of extra grease and I reused some of that on the gears and bushing. I noticed that the consistency of the original grease although not any more slick than the Valvoline, was much stickier and did a better job of hanging onto the parts. It turns out the problem with the carpet cleaner was with the suction from the motor instead but I learned that sticky stringy grease is better in some applications.

I was going to purchase Slick Honey, but after some quick searching I found lots of references to Slickoleum, the makers of Slick Honey. The price was about the same as Slick Honey and it came in a more convenient 8oz container. It is a lighter grease that is both sticky and stringy. It also feels much slicker than the Valvoline grease. If the slickoleum grease gets on my hands, it becomes difficult to hold small parts. I have rebuilt my fork with it and was quite impressed. I am in the process of rebuilding my rear wheel and I am greasing the nipples with slickoleum. I will be disassembling and rebuilding my rear suspension and plan to fully grease all the linkages with it.

http://www.slickoleum.com/


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Lumbee1 said:


> ...I was going to purchase Slick Honey, but after some quick searching I found lots of references to Slickoleum, the makers of Slick Honey. The price was about the same as Slick Honey and it came in a more convenient 8oz container. It is a lighter grease that is both sticky and stringy. It also feels much slicker than the Valvoline grease. If the slickoleum grease gets on my hands, it becomes difficult to hold small parts. I have rebuilt my fork with it and was quite impressed. I am in the process of rebuilding my rear wheel and I am greasing the nipples with slickoleum. I will be disassembling and rebuilding my rear suspension and plan to fully grease all the linkages with it.
> 
> http://www.slickoleum.com/


^I've never heard of it and for good reason upon looking it up it is a grease for paint ball guns.


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

highdelll said:


> ^I've never heard of it and for good reason upon looking it up it is a grease for paint ball guns.


Ah ... but apparently you have.



mtnbiker72 said:


> Slickoleum is the BEST fork lube you can get and actually works pretty well for bearings though I prefer a slightly thicker formula in those applications.
> 
> And Highdell, please refrain from the paintball gun quote!


http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=645995


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

D'oh! Busted 

Original...See post 13
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=579004


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Whatever happened to Dremer? He pretty much disappeared.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Whatever happened to Dremer? He pretty much disappeared.


He posted some pics in S.S. forum about a month ago , nothing from him since .


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

It looks like his Sette forum disappeared as well. Makes me wonder if he's one of those people who gets completely fired up about something, and just as quickly drops it.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Maybe , hope he is finding everything well .


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## MI-29er (Jun 5, 2009)

I didn't read every post but overall very interesting. From what I've learned with oils and grease through an ExxonMobil seminar that I attended for my job is this. The most important thing about the grease is the oil (the vicosity rating). The color has no bearing on the performance what so ever. The color is just an identification for a particular application (electric, coupling.....etc). What makes an oil a grease form is the additives to make it in a jelly type form. If you where to try to put an oil in an open sealed bearing it would just run out. Thats where the additives come in to keep the oil in place. The oil over time will bleed out, that doesn't mean the grease is bad. I could go on about grease and the properties that make a grease. On another note, Synthetic grease are better. They will cost more down the road due to they are man made. So the brand of grease really has no bearing of the quality grease. If you where to take the different brands and break down what they are made from you'll see that they have the same properties as each other. May not have all identical but very similar. Just my 1/2 cent. So remember its the viscosity of the grease that makes difference, not the color, make...etc. This just what I've learned so take it as you may.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

AZ.MTNS said:


> Maybe , hope he is finding everything well .


Yeah, not a bad dood, a bit overzealous/under-knowledged - but had his heart in the right place IMO - he came around after abit too.

I give him props for trying to start a site (which he expanded to _all_ internet bikes besides Sette, tho clearly it was Sette dominant) - I was (am? - I guess it's gone) a member, but truthfully, I get all I can handle or want right here :thumbsup:


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

From Dremer:

_"Yeah I'm good, just been mad busy with a new job and a new girl. Thanks for checking in on me."_


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