# 250+ lb guys, what fork do you run?



## mikesabino (May 20, 2021)

Hi All, 

I'm 265 without gear, running a fox 36 factory, a week or so ago I noticed there's some clicking/creaking sound when I pedal. I think its the dreaded CSU creak on fox forks. I'm curious if anyone else experience this on their forks. I don't jump my bike. I use it on rocky desert trails. I fell off the bike about the same time I noticed the creaking sound but that crash was like falling off a waist high roller because I forgot to tighen my stem bolts and the fork turned at the top while my handle bars stayed straight. LOL I know. 

But back to the creak, if Im to change my fork I'd like to know what everyone else is near my weight is running. Thanks!


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

At our weight dual crown is the way to go. 

Dorado works for me.


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## fmendes (Jun 25, 2016)

I'm naked around 275-280 lb. Used to ride a Fox Performance 34 without major problems other than some eventual binding.

Now I ride a Rocksox ZEB e-mtb and Fox Factory 36 on my two bikes. Both work great. If I'm to suggest anything, choose e-bike versions of whatever fork you pick. These have thicker walls and are supposed to be stiffer than regular versions.


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## Ilovedoods (Jun 22, 2020)

ZEB Ultimate on XL Trek Rail


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## ttengineer (Jun 7, 2012)

I’m 260-270 fully kitted on a Ripmo. I run a fox 36 factory. Haven’t had an issue for the 3 years that I’ve been on it. 


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Depends on the travel needed. At 250-275, my general recommendation is go up a lever of use, i.e. enduro oriented components for trail riding. So at 160mm plus I would run a 38 or Zeb, shorter travel, 36 or Lyrik are plenty. How hard you ride has a large effect, there are light riding 275 pound guys and 175 pound guys that will destroy the same bike on the same trail.


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## sir_crackien (Feb 3, 2008)

I use a lyrik with good success, I agree with what some of the others have mentioned that larger guys are better off on Enduro style forks. That being said the 36 is more than enough fork and the creaky scu seems just to be a problem with them


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

I'm a Super Clyde and run a 2019 Fox Factory 36 @ 140 on my Spur. Tried a 2022 Fox 34 G2 but with max psi of 120, couldn't set sag well and flex added a bit of stiction. I ran the same 36 @ 160 on my Orbea Rallon and it was [email protected] 170mm it didn't perform quite as well. A bit more unwanted flex but still great in most situations. If I were to run 170, I'd go 38/Zeb. I ran a 38 170 on my Evil Wreckoning V3 and its definitely amazing. The unwanted flex I'm talking about is mainly only an issue through the really rough stuff. 130-160 i'd go Lyrik or 36. I've run both and both are great. I do feel Clydes are better running higher end dampers for better tunability. At heavier bodyweights I've found i can't get good small bump without it being Supportive enough or vice versa... when it feels supportive, then small bump is a mess (on the Fox Grip or RF select Dampers)


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## theMISSIONARY (Apr 13, 2008)

251lbs......Naked 

I have a Pike 2016 solo air on a Reign 27.5, X-Fusion Sweep on a HT 27.5, Fox 36 rhythm on an HT 29'er

the Sweep flexes a bit(34mm stantions)but I consider 34mm the lower limit, the Pike has better bushings than the Fox and the Fox are under 300km's old.....the pike has over 3000kms


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## michael.sabino81 (Dec 2, 2021)

Thanks guys, fork is sorted... my creaking was from my saddle lol wallet is safe for the time being 😁


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## Pipeliner (Oct 30, 2018)

I use a Mezzer and it’s the best fork I’ve ridden but I am not experienced with all of the new stuff out there. Of what Ive ridden I think the bare minimum is a Pike for Clyde’s. I’ve ridden the new 34 and it still flexes too much for me. If you are on the brake pretty hard and are hitting big bumps the flex tends to lock the front front wheel just a bit and you can feel it hopping the tire just a bit. You have so much more control with a stiffer fork. Tire slides less, steering is way better. When riding rocky, technical stuff the bigger fork is major advantage in control and confidence. And so is a big, tacky tire. If you are having trouble with control, a 2.6 soft compound front tire at low pressure is a game changer.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Fox 38 for AZ. Much better than a 36. I’m 230. 


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

My weight has fluctuated between 245-285lb during the time I've been on a 2020 Factory Factory 34. 140mm. I cannot recall what (if any) tokens are in the set up. Great fork.


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## mikesabino (May 20, 2021)

Thanks for the input guys... fox 36 users can I ask what pressures you're running on your forks? I used to run 30% sag at around 90psi. I have no idea how I got 30% sag at 90psi I always thought I'd be higher up in the pressures for that.


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## chafingdish (Aug 2, 2017)

I think it depends on how you go about setting fork sag—everyone seems to have their own method. Even if we all used the same technique there would be a lot of variability. Ive given up on setting sag in static conditions and just do trial and error with air pressure. FWIW I weigh 225, run a fox 34 grip 2 at 140, psi somewhere around 100. Fork works ok, I do get some deflection, and might switch to something beefier.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

I’m buying a shock wiz asap due to this very question plus reading the sag on a float X in the Hightower v2 tunnel is near impossible!!!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Manitou Forks! Not the cheap ones


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## smockteleheli (Jan 19, 2011)

I'm 250 ish and love my 170mm fox 36 with a dsd runt. The runt gives the mid stroke support that tokens can't.


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## fftfk (Nov 26, 2020)

Brules said:


> I’m buying a shock wiz asap due to this very question plus reading the sag on a float X in the Hightower v2 tunnel is near impossible!!!


I’m a big believer in the shockwiz. Helped me setup my suspension well enough that I haven’t felt the need for a tune/gear change. It also lets me know I’m at 5he limit for my suspension so gives a little incentive to keep my weight down


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## benno_r (Apr 7, 2021)

I vary between 260 and 280 kitted up, and I am super happy with my Mezzer's. Very supportive and soak up everything I've thrown at them.


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## Stewiewin (Dec 17, 2020)

mikesabino said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm 265 without gear, running a fox 36 factory, a week or so ago I noticed there's some clicking/creaking sound when I pedal. I think its the dreaded CSU creak on fox forks. I'm curious if anyone else experience this on their forks. I don't jump my bike. I use it on rocky desert trails. I fell off the bike about the same time I noticed the creaking sound but that crash was like falling off a waist high roller because I forgot to tighen my stem bolts and the fork turned at the top while my handle bars stayed straight. LOL I know.
> 
> But back to the creak, if Im to change my fork I'd like to know what everyone else is near my weight is running. Thanks!


run cheap but good suntour couldn't be happier


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Do you go air or no air?


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## Yootah (Jun 30, 2017)

Manitou Mastadon Comp 120mm. Lots of chunky desert and mountain trails, very little airborne stuff. I've been real pleased with it, though I'm always running plus and sometimes fat which takes some of the chatter out...


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

As the OP found out, the creak was not from the forks. I've noticed that when I get a creak on my FS bike, it's usually something in the rear suspension. On my old aluminum hardtails, it was almost always the bottom bracket. I weighed 250 lbs back then, and the bottom bracket bore most of the beating because of no rear suspension. On my Carbon Fiber Hightower the linkage gets sand between the the bearings and the frame and creaks. The weeping bearing grease helps it build up. It's a regular pull it apart and wipe it all clean maintenance thing. My bottom bracket is 3 years old and never creaks. It leads a good life thanks to the suspension. Then a few months ago a new creak developed which the cleaning didn't fix and I could feel it throughout the frame. I would hold the frame in deferent places with one hand while I rode. The vibration from the creek was strongest in the down tube. I thought it might be my HeatSet or even my BB, but after further testing turning my handlebars and pedaling fast and not pedaling didn't change the creak. The only other moving part attached to the downtube was the rear shock and the creak felt strongest right near the mount.
'Shock bushings'. I pulled them off, greased them, and that was the end of the creak My dropper used to creak a little, so I re-installed it with a ton of Park mounting paste and it never creaks anymore. If the seat creaks you can squeeze a little silicone where the mounting bars attach to the seat shell. That usually does the trick.
Like the old saying, "Quiet bike happy life"...


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## Kiwibob72 (9 mo ago)

I'm riding a 34 rythm on my 21' fuel ex8 with 3 tokens in it, and are around 290ish when I convert metric to vintage.
Rides ok, despite being a little finicky to get just right! (honestly, I'm more picky than red riding hood and porridge when it comes to getting it just so!)


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

You can get a burlier fork and put a shorter air spring in it too. For example, I ran a Fox 36 lowered to 140mm on my Tallboy for a bit.


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## Kiwibob72 (9 mo ago)

Alias530 said:


> You can get a burlier fork and put a shorter air spring in it too. For example, I ran a Fox 36 lowered to 140mm on my Tallboy for a bit.


I'd love a 36 at 140mm on my Fuel EX TBF, but funds are funds, and families have needs. Since I wrote my post above, I must say that the 34 looks to have 'bedded' itself in, and while I still get great bottom out resistance, it's now riding a hell of a lot more supple on the small bumpy stuff than when it was new. At the moment, while i am forced to ride 'family friendly' trails due to medical issues, the 34 Rythm is proving to be a pretty dam good 'set and forget' fork the more I use it!


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## Tall BMX'r (Jan 11, 2021)

Just keep riding. I rode early mountain bikes with no suspension for years. Had fun too.


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## ttengineer (Jun 7, 2012)

Alias530 said:


> You can get a burlier fork and put a shorter air spring in it too. For example, I ran a Fox 36 lowered to 140mm on my Tallboy for a bit.


This is more commonly over looked than it should be. 

If your over 200, you really should ride a 36, no matter the bike. The benefits will far out way the weight penalty. 

Hell, do any trail bikes come with forks under 140mm anymore? Aren’t most down country bikes 140 in the front?


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## Cheap_Basterd (May 28, 2020)

My fat ass is about 268 right now and I bought a Fox 34 Float just because it had the same 130 mm geometry and 44° rake that the factory fork had on my Santa Cruz. I wound up shoving four tokens into it, it came with two, and it seems to be OK for light trail use.

In retrospect I probably should have gotten a 36 with 140 to 150 mm of travel.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I had an avalanche tuned pike that wasn't as good as my out of the box manitou Mastodon Pro. Pretty sure their pro level forks use very similar internals, so the performance shouldn't be specific to the Mastodon.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

I’ve been told by a fox rep that for big Clyde’s - get the ebike version of their forks as they are built even sturdier which helps us big fellas.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

ttengineer said:


> This is more commonly over looked than it should be.
> 
> If your over 200, you really should ride a 36, no matter the bike. The benefits will far out way the weight penalty.
> 
> ...


This. And after getting a 38 it’s amazing how flexy the 36 is on longer travel bikes. 


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

I weigh 200lbs, and have been at this weight since about the time I started riding in 2005. I started out on a hard tail with an elastomer fork with 32 mm stanchions. After that I got a stumpjumper with a fox talus fork with 32mm stanchions that I rode for 10 years, and down some serious gnar. I also got a freeride bike with a Marzocchi Junior T with 32mm stanchions and took that thing down some of the gnarliest gnar in New England.

A Fox 34 is a step up from everything we had back then. Thicker stanchions, better stiffness, wayyyy better damping. I ride a 36 now and its plenty for double blacks in Killington. Unless you plan to ride rampage, you probably don't need dual crown, and a 38 or zeb is probably more fork than you could ever use.


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## rockshins (Mar 16, 2013)

Been up to 255, was fine on a Rockshox Pike and am currently on a Fox 36. Forks have been totally fine for me.


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## Jake From Statefarm (7 mo ago)

sir_crackien said:


> I use a lyrik with good success, I agree with what some of the others have mentioned that larger guys are better off on Enduro style forks. That being said the 36 is more than enough fork and the creaky scu seems just to be a problem with them


What are your settings(PSI/LSC/RB) on the Lyrik?. I'm 250lbs. got the 170mm Lyrik. The factory PSI recommendations seem REALLY high.


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## Brules (Jul 10, 2021)

Oh also for Clyde’s - the Fox 38 has about 20psi more range than the 36 (140 max vs 120). So if you’re a real Clyde like me that could be handy. 

I just went to 5 tokens on my 36 to help as I kept bottoming out.


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

Fox 38... 250 lbs

super stiff yet VERY plush.. I think the smaller forks bind a bit with us bigger guys... On horizontal hits(running into a rock on the trail)... This fork seems much stiffer (as it should-- its bigger) and all the while stays plush and compliant..

The extra weight (200g) just isnt much for what you get for it.. Ive actually lost a few pounds and could probably go with a 36 now-- but id MUCH rather stay with the 38.. Butta


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