# FSA Metropolis geared crankset



## kiatkiat (Sep 21, 2008)

Anyone had any news of this FSA crankset?

https://www.bikerumor.com/2010/04/2...drive-internal-geared-crankset-for-commuters/










Any idea when they will start selling one of those?


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## john_dalhart (Nov 6, 2009)

Ah, the "Patterson Transmission". It's a 28T that multiplies up 1.6 (equivalent to 42T). Needs no frame modification; FSA sez it's for commuter bikes.

Loved the rear deraileur cable routing on the one they showed @ Sea Otter:










JD


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## kiatkiat (Sep 21, 2008)

Shimano also say alfine is for commuter bikes too, but many people have use it for mtb.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

ok, so i've been waiting to hear more about this and I just don't get why they keep saying "It's for commuting only"

at 1:38 in this interview he says "at more load... it works" so I don't get the problem.





is it that the internals aren't very resistant to impact forces?
anyone with more news/info/review?


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## Fungazi (Mar 31, 2005)

byknuts said:


> ok, so i've been waiting to hear more about this and I just don't get why they keep saying "It's for commuting only"


Crank arms may be a bit thin to take the strain of repeated impacts when the rider gets pushed up over bumps / lands from a jump. There may also be issues with the bottom bracket not being strong enough. Neither of those seems intrinsic to the design, but could be the result of design choices made to match a certain price point / target weight. Though to be honest, from what I've seen, commuting bikes get torn up worse than MTBs...

Anyhow, the commuting market is hot right now. They may just be trying to distance themselves from similar existing MTB product(s) and establish niche dominance.


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## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

i was figuring it was the "sudden impact" part of things.
but if it holds together under load, then for off-road touring, snow-biking/sand-biking it'd be perfect.
wish i could get confirmation on what exactly is the reason for them insisting on it not being offroad capable...


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## bikeisbetter (Aug 15, 2009)

john_dalhart said:


> Ah, the "Patterson Transmission". It's a 28T that multiplies up 1.6 (equivalent to 42T).


So it sports a failed design from the get-go. What's the point of making the gear everyone will be spending most time and power in non direct thus less efficient?

Apparently Germans are the only nation that comprehend the extremely complex idea that making the mostly used ratio the most efficient is a good thing. Heck, Japanese even ditched the neutral gear from their Alfine 11 at all.

Back to Metropolis: if it is to be used with rear dérailleur, then it nullifies reasons why people go internal gearing. If it is to be used with an internal gear hub for commuting, then it will make the drivetrain too inefficient (multiplication of crank and IGH inefficiencies) and redundant as a standard cheap 8 speed IGHs are enough to commute. If it is to be used for touring, then it will be not efficient enough because of overdrive.

Best thing to be done with this project is either ditch it or send it back to the drawing board.


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## Moozh (Jan 20, 2010)

Well..It's out in the market now. Anyone willing to give it a shot on their commuter/urban bike and report back? I would TOFTT but I'm clean out of bikes that could be candidates.


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Moozh said:


> Well..It's out in the market now. Anyone willing to give it a shot on their commuter/urban bike and report back? I would TOFTT but I'm clean out of bikes that could be candidates.


Who is selling it?


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## Moozh (Jan 20, 2010)

mwarner57 said:


> Who is selling it?


http://www.greentirebikes.com/cr5050.html


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Okay, I bit the bullet and ordered one today. If all goes well, sometime this weekend I will slap that puppy on my Zion 737EBB and will be casually spinning to the trailhead in 1:6 overdrive. The fun will start when I hit the trailhead. Will the 1:1 hold up under the strain of sustained standing climbs on the singletrack, or will the planetary gears shatter like a cheap Chinese cereal toy, catapulting my already abused body over the bars and into the pitiless rocks of Tamarancho? Stay tuned.


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## bike guy (Jul 28, 2011)

I put this on my mountain bike and it works great...shifts easily and instantly, -under load -- I was surprised how quickly it shifted - -seemed like it shifter before I felt the click on the handlebar control...have not had any problems of any kind....looking forward to testing it more...


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## bike guy (Jul 28, 2011)

you can find it on amazon


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Finally got the crankset from Universal Cycles last night and went to work on the Zion. Unfortunately, I found out that this thing will not work with an EBB I should have known. The base plate/torque arm is set up to work with a standard BB shell, and the EBB shell is far too big. Also, once the torque arm is in place, the EBB cannot be rotated to tension the chain. Back to the drawing board. Contemplating picking up a Motobecane Outcast frame and selling the Zion just so I can use this crank.


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

I bit the bullet and picked up an Outcast frame to use with this crank. Installing the backplate was fairly straightforward (FSA inlcudes a special tool to prevent the plate from rotatating during installation) After I put the whole thing together, I found it was very diffcult to spin the cranks. Discovered that the backplate housing was rubbing on my chainstay  I put a standard Shimano BB spacer (3mm?) behind the backplate and it now clears. Just. The issue now is that the non-drive side crank arm is not fully inserted on to the splines. Luckily the splines are pretty beefy, and should hold. If not, this thing is going to end up on my wife's Breezer. Hopefully I can get the shifter installed tonight and try it out this weekend. Stay tuned.


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Dear mwarner57 

I am very grateful for your enthusiasm. Thankyou! 

I am also concerned about the spacer added between the Control Plate and the BB shell. It is very important to use a metal (not plastic) spacer here. Metal will stay tight. Plastic will loosen. Also, did you use the thin stainless steel Seal Washer here? The objective is to tightly cover up the threaded holes which are needed for the locking setscrew installed between the BB cup castellations to keep the BB cup tight.

I would be happy to mail you some extra Seal Washers so you can stack them as spacers.

My biggest concern is that the splines between the spindle and the non drive side crank need to be fully engaged for safety's sake.

I can't tell you what to do with your new frame, but in my shop I would not heasitate to pull out a friendly ball peen hammer and make an "adjustment" to the chain stay. 

It is very important to mount the Control Plate squarely, securely, and directly (with seal washer) against the BB shell.

The crankset is specified for pavement use because the crank arms are die cast, not forged; and the seals are high efficiency/low contact force optimized for rainy city riding but not necessarily deep soupy mud.

Sincerely, Sam Patterson, Inventor


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the reply! I have been out of town for a few days, so still haven't finished the bike. I had the same thought of "massaging" the chainstay with a hammer, although it's hard to do that when the frame is sitll shiny and new:eekster: I also gave some though to bevelling the inside edge on the planetary housing, but do not have the equipment to do this.

I think the crank should work well otherwise. I live in Marin, and the terrain is pretty rocky, so we don't have much soupy mud, just puddled water during the winter. Thanks for the offer of the washers, but I think I am going to have to make this work with just the one in order to get full contact on the splines. Hopefully I can get some time this weekend to work on this.

Mike


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Sounds great, Mike 

Can't wait to hear how you like it!

Sincerely, Sam


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Finally got the crank on a functioning. I didn't have much luck "reshaping" the chainstays, so added a thinner BB spacer to the included washer and now have sufficient clearance. The other big challenge was that my frame does not have any cable stops on the downtube. I had to make do with a Surly brake cable hanger zip-tied on to the downtube. I am using a cheap Falcon thumbshifter for the shifting duties. 

First impressions: I first rode the bike in OD about 3 miles to the trailhead. I noticed some ratchety noises coming from the crank, but assumed it was normal. Playing with my shifter, though, I noticed that the noise went away with a bit more rotation of the shifter. It takes about a quarter turn of the thumby to go completely from one gear to the other. Also felt a light buzzing from the cranks while in OD. Nothing unpleasant, and the cranks did not feel like they were dragging at all. I didn't shift under load, so can't say how that feels, and given the infrequency of shifting with this setup, I doubt that I will have much need for that. Once I hit the trailhead, I popped it in to direct drive and commenced single-speedin'. The trail had quite a few sections where I was really straining on the cranks, and they worked without a hiccup. Back on the road, shifted back to OD and spun home without incident. The OD ratio seemed to work out perfectly for the road.

I'm pretty happy with it at this point, although few changes would make it better suited to MTBs:
- More chainstay clearance. Mine was pretty close right off the bat, but another 5mm or so would probably guarantee a fit on almost any frame out there.
- Ability to work with top-pull shifter cables. I am debating taking the return spring off and making a little lever that sits on the backplate, to get rid of the shifter altogether, but I think most people would want to use their favorite shifters.
- Some type of mud seal to keep crud out of the planetaries. I can see that this might create some unwanted drag, but shouldn't be a big issue with a little grease. Maybe it could be offered as an option?


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Mike, 

Glad you enjoyed your first ride!

I can send you a cable routing bracket that provides a socket for the cable housing . . . at the transmission. That way you can route the housing all the way from the shifter to the transmission. We just developed it and it will be available soon from FSA. Just send me a ship to address and I will put one in the mail.

We DO have seals to protect the gears!  There are two round rubber seals that look like circular windshield wipers. One is about four inches in diameter and goes between the crank arm and the Ring Gear Shell. The other is about three and a half inches and goes between the Control Cam and Ring Gear Shell. The seals rub on bores in the Ring Gear Shell. The seals do a pretty good job of keeping mud and water out, but I intentionally kept the seal preload to a minimum to keep the efficiency as high as possible. In fact, I have done a lot of efficiency testing using the "spin - down" method.  ( Use an extension spring for a constant "quantum" of input energy for one pedal stroke and measure the time it takes for the rear wheel to "spin down".) I did this with seals installed and then again with the large seals removed. Many many times . The spin down times were very consistent and the difference between seals in and seals removed was less than one half a percent. 

We could always provide a seal with more preload, but we have been Field Testing this for years and the high efficiency is noticed and appreciated by our Test Riders. We put a lot of effort into testing and adjusting to get the right ballance.

By the way, another reason for the high efficiency is that the chain force is alligned with the small diamter cartridge ball bearing that the Ring Gear spins on. The bearing is directly under the chain. That way cocking forces are avoided. The ball bearing is smaller in diameter and runs more freely that would otherwise be the case.

Thanks for your other thoughts as well.

Keep the rubber on the road!

Sincerely, Sam


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

P.S. I was able to see your picture after I wrote the last post. When I look into the crevice between the Control Plate and Ring Gear Shell, I can't convince myself that there is a black rubber "windshield wiper" seal there. Might just be dusty. The seals remove and replace like rubber bands. Very easy to snap a new one in. If the seal is missing, please let me know and I will include new seals in a care package.

Sam

P.S. I was studying your pictures (nice!) again, and I have to ask: is your BB 68 mm wide?

I have a nice plastic body working hammer that can "adjust" steel without damaging the paint. Hmm......

I also do not have any spare "seal washers" to use as spacers. Very sorry about that. My friends at FSA keep reminding me that the spline engagement is very important.

Heading to Interbike so will check for your comments again when I get home.

Hope you are riding happily.

Do you want the cable re-route bracket that accepts the cable housing at the transmission? Sorry, I am in a hurry and you may have already answered that. Will check when I get out of edit mode. 

Sincerely, Sam


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## Exaturbo (Sep 13, 2011)

Hi all.

sorry for the slight thread jack.
i tried to send a Pm, but wasnt allowed to.
i was googling for information on the Patterson crankset, and found this thread.

*@Sam.*

i have just dropped my bike (2010 apollo trace urban hybrid)
off at the LBS to have a new shimano 11speed alfine IGH installed.

can you please tell me if your crankset will be compatible with the alfine 11 spd ?

i really want to be derailleur free on my commuter.

reason im asking, is that i have read that the crankset requires a 9 speed chain, but the LBS is saying they need to use a single speed chain with the alfine hub.

the alfine hub will have a 18T rear sprocket / freewheel (im new to IGH so don't know exactly how they work in regards to freewheels and sprockets etc)
i was looking at the schlumpf speed drive but they are too far outside my budget, and don't fit a std BB without modification.

any info would be very greatly received.

Jason


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I've been riding one of these cranksets on a commuter for a bit. Works well.

One question though: I'm surprised to see this thread on this forum, as I thought this crankset was supposedly meant for pavement use? I had wondered about that at time of purchase, as it's a pretty similar design to a Hammerschmidt, which I run on my mountain bike and have not succeeded in breaking it yet despite plenty of abuse.

If it's cool to run this crankset on a mountain bike, I'd like to know - it's less expensive, and the cable clamp is competent, unlike the anemic clamp on my HS that keeps allowing the cable to slip every other ride.


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Jason,

The Alfine with the Patterson Transmission is an awsome combination! 

Our CR will acceept a nine speed (and ten speed Sram XX) chain. A wider chain is no problem.

Any simple indexing shifter designed for an FD will work great. Peferrably no fine tune detents as they serve no purpose and can be confusing.

Two or three speed is no problem as you will not be able to reach the third detent when the cable is adjusted properly.

Just clamp the cable with the shifter in the "paid out" position (position 1) then take out the slack.

Position 1 will correspond to high gear. Pull cable to position 2 and you will be in low gear.

If the transmission shifts too much sooner than the shifter reaches position 2, just loosen the cable a bit.

The most important consideration is that when you release cable to position 1, you do it completely and cleanly.


Sincerely, Sam Patterson, Inventor


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Drew, 

The Patterson Transmission is marketed and warrantied for pavement use. The reason is that the crank arms are die cast, not forged. Light duty trail riding shoud be no problem. FSA simply cannot recommend it for ballistic offroad use. We are not competing with the H'schmt. 

For this product, I have made efficiency the highest priority. (Details above in this thread.)

Glad you like our cable clamp! Please make sure you have the rectangular aluminum "crush" washer with anitrotation fingers under the round steel washer under the head of the cable clamp bolt.

Sincerely, Sam


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## mwarner57 (Jul 27, 2006)

Hi Sam,

Thanks so much for the cable guide widget! How does it work, exactly, and where does it go?

Thanks,

Mike


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

*Optional Cable Routing Bracket for Patterson crankset*

















Hi Mike  Here are two views of the Cable Routing Bracket as installed. There is a button head screw that needs to be removed from the internal surface of the Control Plate. This uncovers a hole that is used to fasten the new bracket. Use the socket head screw provided and use it to pull up the bracket on the outside.

The pics are better than the words. I hope they come through.

If not I'll try again.

Sincerely, Sam


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## maldrien (Jul 29, 2011)

@Sam 
Sorry to kinda hijack the thread but I am building a winter bike for the Montreal, Canada weather. We get a lot of snow and the city uses a lot of salt. I currently use a Nexus 3 speed with a 2 plater crankset. My Fd tends to seize in the very cold weather. I was wondering if your invention have been tested in those kind of situation.


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for a great question!  Most of the Field Testing has been done in the Seattle urban area. We put close to 5000 miles over two winters on the original test unit. Its a little crusty but it still works. We use Aeroshell 33 MS grease which was developed for aircraft flying at high altitude at sub zero temperatures. . . . then landing on a tropical island baking in the heat. The grease is low viscosity to begin with and will not gum up at low temperatures. The seals are low compression high efficiency wiper seals. They work pretty well for pavement use, but no seal is perfect. The control input is a rotating shaft with an O-ring seal. We have never had a mechanism sieze up due to crud, corrosion or ice. However, I will admit that Montreal is more extreme than Seattle!  The internal mechanisms are extremely simple and robust. It is very easy to remove the crank for periodic cleaning. Just loosen the non drive side crank and the whole drive side crank, gearbox, and spindle slide out ot the BB cups. The Control Plate stays on the BB shell. It is held on by the BB cup. No need to disturb the control cable. No small parts to fall on the floor. No adjustments. Just clean, regrease and slide it back together. Re-torque the non drive side crank and you're done. I hope you will give it a try and let us know how you like it. Sincerely, Sam


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## maldrien (Jul 29, 2011)

Thanks a lot Sam for all the info. I'll have a talk with my mechanic and I'll let you know what I decide. But I have to say it is very tempting.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

Sam, is there a way to run it belt drive on my civia bryant?


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## fvfvfv (Nov 15, 2010)

Hi guys, I have two questions:
1) Can I run the Patterson as a 1x10 setup and will I need a BB chain guide?
2) I have a Bianchi San Jose, so no cable stops. Any alternative for the cable routing? Thanks


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## nelzbycks (Jun 3, 2011)

I am thinking about this crankset for my Surly Cross Check. I saw this crankset in Bicycle Times and it looks like it was installed on a Surly for their review. Since my CC is a do everything weight be damned bike I think this would match up well. I am currently running 52/42/30, & at my fitness level I almost never run the big ring. Downhill with a tailwind might be the only big ring occasion for this bike.


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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

JUNGLEKID5 said:


> Sam, is there a way to run it belt drive on my civia bryant?


I rode road with a club 2 years back when I turned the ALFINE El Mariachi into a franken-road bike. We are talking 31 lbs here. I was running 44/16 which would give 30 mph at a cadence of 90 rpm. Give your Civia a chance before adding even more drag with that crank set-up. As it is geared you'll be in the mid 25 mph range at 90 rpm. Climbing will still be reasonable too. Your bike (like my road-experiment) is too heavy and has too much drag to even worry about going 30 mph. Remember a fit average club guy will only average roughly 20 mph for an hour or two hour ride. 30 mph stuff is club rides in a pack inches away from each other, or really steep hills.

Drew


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

dru said:


> I rode road with a club 2 years back when I turned the ALFINE El Mariachi into a franken-road bike. We are talking 31 lbs here. I was running 44/16 which would give 30 mph at a cadence of 90 rpm. Give your Civia a chance before adding even more drag with that crank set-up. As it is geared you'll be in the mid 25 mph range at 90 rpm. Climbing will still be reasonable too. Your bike (like my road-experiment) is too heavy and has too much drag to even worry about going 30 mph. Remember a fit average club guy will only average roughly 20 mph for an hour or two hour ride. 30 mph stuff is club rides in a pack inches away from each other, or really steep hills.
> 
> Drew


Drew do you think that there is really that much added drag to the system igh or iinternal geard cranks.


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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

Yes, the IGH drag is fairly high. Enough that you'll really notice it if you are trying to ride in a pack at 30 mph. Actually, that's not entirely true;some gears are fine while others have a lot of drag. 1st gear for me was particularily bad.

I had my El Mariachi in road bike guise and it was simply terrible, even compared to my 27 lb 1985 Raleigh Grand Prix. I put drop bars on it and ran 44/16 gears. The El Mar, being a mountain bike, has wide rims so I couldn't go any skinnier than 32C. I used 32C tires for awhile on the Raleigh too, and found a fair imporovement going to 23C. The biggest problem with the Alfine is drag, followed by wide spacing between gears. 

I ride with guys on sub 20 lb bikes. I'm fairly strong but get killed if I'm having an off day. I need a lighter bike with much better wheels.

Your bike is a fine road bike but isn't a racer. Just enjoy it for what it is. It suffers all the same handicaps my Salsa did such as discs hanging out in the wind, not very aero rims and spokes, and a IGH hub.

I ride IGH because it is unique. I love how it looks, and I love the low maintenance. The IGH costs me almost 2 lbs compared to the XTR I run on the other mtb, but that's fine. It is good to be different sometimes. 

Oddly enogh I'm just as fast on my 30 lb Alfine 29er as I am on my 27 lb geared 26er. I don't notice the drag off road I guess.

Drew


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

thanks and the civia is so much fun on the road.. never been much of a road speedster.. but thanks for the input..


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## coyboy (Jan 15, 2010)

Sam, if your still monitoring this thread, what about the Patterson on a Rans Dynamik? Not sure if my 08 is the same as the 2012 but they list it as Truvativ English 68 x 118. I have a cheap crankset on it right now (bought mine as a frame and used). Been thinking a Patterson along with an IGH would be sweet. I'm leaning towards the Nuvinci 360. Would be riding mostly street and some mild trails but would reserve the Jamis Komodo for the rough stuff. Anyways, your thoughts appreciated!


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## Zibwag (Apr 10, 2012)

*Patterson, cable parts*

@Sam Patterson

I am currently setting up my patterson and have run into the same problem as other users that don't have down tube routing. Where can I pick up the piece you mention FSA is going to be rolling out.

I can't link back to your photo yet, since I am a new user.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

*I busted the overdrive engagement pawl return spring.*

_I want to say up front that this crankset got damaged while probably using it outside of its intended design parameters._ My client is using his Patterson crank in fixed-rear-cog mode, like this Hammerschmidt is doing.

He came back to me saying that his Patterson crank is stuck in one gear. I thought it was a cable tension issue because he snapped off a zip tie. Nope!

Turns out it was the overdrive engagement pawl - the spring that retracts it snapped:









...See the little bit of coil inside the hole running through the pawl? Gotta get that little guy outta there.

...But... what the _hell_ is this bolt head driver? 4mm hex is too small, 4.5mm hex is too big! I tried some English sizes and those didn't work either. I need to be able to take this thing out to insert a new spring without damaging said spring.









In the mean time, I was able to yank on the second part of the pawl. Observe how said yanking additionally damaged the snapped-off portion of spring.









I am going to buy replacement springs here and hope they work!


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## irrah (Dec 18, 2008)

Drew Diller said:


> ..But... what the _hell_ is this bolt head driver? 4mm hex is too small, 4.5mm hex is too big!


Torx ?


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

I'm not sure how to put it - I have several Torx drivers. None of them fit. The six pointed sections of a Torx are more pronounced than what I'm dealing with. It may be that Torx heads change size as they get bigger? Thinking of just taking the entire control plate with me to a hardware store.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

That said - what I'm dealing with doesn't appear to be in this list: List of screw drives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## jnl1105 (Oct 3, 2011)

If I am looking at that picture correctly it just looks like a custom socket head cap screw that was made with a small end mill, I would be very very surprised if the properly sized Allen wrench wouldn't work


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

*Patterson Transmission coming with Carbon Drive*



JUNGLEKID5 said:


> Sam, is there a way to run it belt drive on my civia bryant?


Hi Bryant,

The adapter spider to fit a Gates Carbon drive system to the Patterson Transmission will be available soon:

Hmm... I thought there was a way to put a picture in here? The belt drive looks great.

The adapter will work for both CDX and Center Track Carbon Drive systems from Gates.

I recommend the Center Track. Its smooth as silk.

Thanks for the great question!

Sam Patterson


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## fvfvfv (Nov 15, 2010)

My crankset spring is broken after 20 miles ride. Here are some pics

So far, this are my impressions about this crankset:

1. Great idea and excellent when it works properly, but for a $270 bike equipment I wan something reliable. ( By the way @ this point there is not a place to register the crankset for warranty purpose on FSA.com or metropoliscomponents.com although I know Sam is always replying to any concern about the product which is appreciated.

2. I find irritating that after I paid $270.00 for a crankset that is marketed for City/hybrids bikes. I have to spend an additional $30 for a cable stop ($20 + $10 S/H) when most fixie frames lacks of cable stops.

3. There is other customers with the same issue about the spring at Amazon:

Quote:

H. Groves says:
Yes...ordered this on my new recumbent trike and it lasted 5 rides/18 miles before it wouldn't shift out of low. Called Utah Trikes and they stated they've seen this problem in several of these so far and it's a broken internal spring. Long story short I have to send the boom of my new trike back to them and they'll put another one on.

Not impressed so far.

Quote:

Sam H Patterson says:
Dear H. Groves 

We have a fix for that.

The replacement spring is slightly smaller in diameter for more clearance to neighboring parts.

The problem first surfaced when the crankset was ridden in low gear with the control cable fully pulled. This does not occur with indexing shifters, but can occur with Barcon bar end or other friction shifters.

I am working with Ashley Guy at Utah Trikes to change over to the new spring. However, Patterson crankset owners are also invited to contact me through Patterson Bike Transmission - Internally Geared Crankset - Fast Front Shifting Everytime for immediate attention.

I appreciate your interest in the crankset and I appoligize for the inconvenience!

Sincerely, Sam Patterson

4. I'm using a barend shifter with my Bianchi San jose and a Nuvinci N360 with dropbars, so at this point I am very frustrated because like I said when the crankset works It is perfect, I had it set it up with a 18 cog with the Nuvinci and it gave me a 21.1/122.3 gear inch ratio which it is perfect for my hilly area.

Anyway, I have contact Sam and knowing him for his excellent customer service I know he'll do the right thing as always. I want to give the crankset another try because I like the concept and it is practical for my riding style. I'll keep you posted about any resolution


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

*Patterson fits 68 mm English BB*



coyboy said:


> Sam, if your still monitoring this thread, what about the Patterson on a Rans Dynamik? Not sure if my 08 is the same as the 2012 but they list it as Truvativ English 68 x 118. I have a cheap crankset on it right now (bought mine as a frame and used). Been thinking a Patterson along with an IGH would be sweet. I'm leaning towards the Nuvinci 360. Would be riding mostly street and some mild trails but would reserve the Jamis Komodo for the rough stuff. Anyways, your thoughts appreciated!


That sounds like an excellent application  And yes, the 68 mm BB is perfect.

Sincerely, Sam


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## Sam Patterson (Aug 26, 2011)

*New Control Pawl Spring with more clearance*



fvfvfv said:


> My crankset spring is broken after 20 miles ride. Here are some pics
> 
> So far, this are my impressions about this crankset:
> 
> ...


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## fvfvfv (Nov 15, 2010)

This is my follow up about the crankset. First of all, excellent customer service by Sam, He did maintain communication with me all the time, he did replaced the spring and sent me a lot of goodies including the new cable router. I took the bike for a test ride (half century) and the crankset performed flawless! Thanks again Sam


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

Forgot to post about this, been out of it for a bit...

Customer service from Mr. Patterson has been great and prompt. He sent me a whole new control plate instead of sending me a new spring. So far so good.


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