# Lock out forks???



## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

I saw where some bikes were equipped with lock out forks and adjustable preloads. My guess is that the adjustable preload is simply an adjustable shock where you can increase or decrease the damper. Which would be useful to setting up the bike properly accordingv to your weight and eliminating dropouts. 

I also assume that the lock out forks let's you, well, lock the fork so that it doesn't budge. But why would you want to do that? You would think everyone would want the suspension, so what exactly are the benefits to locking your fork and is it really even worth it to have equipped on your bike?


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## wickedone31 (Jul 18, 2010)

Well the lock-out feature on the fork pretty much does that, it locks the fork in either full travel so it rides like a rigid fork, or on some forks like the Rockshox U-turn forks you can lower the fork. Both the lock-out and U-turn restricts travel, or lowers the travel and reduces pedal bob to make it easier to climb. Personally I only find the U-turn useful because it lowers your front end while still giving you some travel which is useful when you have a slack long travel fork. The lock-out feature is more useful on the rear shock, as thats where you normally feel the pedal bob. The pre-load is set by either adding air pressure if an air fork, or pre-loading the coil spring.


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## XCSKIBUM (Mar 15, 2010)

*Post deleted responded to wrong OP* :blush:


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## GotoDengo (Aug 6, 2010)

gemini9 said:


> My guess is that the adjustable preload is simply an adjustable shock where you can increase or decrease the damper.


Preload is setting sag on the bike. Doesn't have anything to do with a damper (you need to preload damper-less forks too). It's to prevent the shock from topping out essentially. "Preload adjust" usually implies coil spring, though you're setting preload on an air fork too by changing the air.



> I also assume that the lock out forks let's you, well, lock the fork so that it doesn't budge.


Usually they're not completely locked out, or else the seals would blow on a big hit.



> But why would you want to do that? You would think everyone would want the suspension, so what exactly are the benefits to locking your fork and is it really even worth it to have equipped on your bike?


I thought lockout was a big feature when I moved up from a bigbox bike. I've maybe used it twice. If you ride pavement a lot, or get out of the saddle on long smooth areas, it can reduce un-needed suspension. But on real singletrack it doesn't have much use.

Note that lockout with adjustable blowoff (usually marketed as "RL" dampers, as opposed to "TK" or "LO") is pretty useful, as you can control the threshold that it blows through the lockout on big hits.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

So it sounds to me like a lock out on the front fork is pretty much not such a big deal and shouldn't be a big factor in the final decision on a new/first bike. I've been looking on bikesdirect.com for a first bike and am trying to decide which one to get with a $350-$400 budget. Sent an email to them about sizing and which bike would suit me best but that was a few days ago and haven't heard anything from them yet. No tech support number on their website either. Just a number to place your order. Is this site really legit?


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## GotoDengo (Aug 6, 2010)

BD is legit - check the Motobecane subform here (BD house brand). My understanding is they are pretty responsive, and the owner is a somewhat frequent poster here. 

Online bikes often give better components vs. LBS but downside is can't ride it first so it might not fit right. Also, often have to mail stuff back for warranty issues, and have to do it all yourself instead of handing that off to your LBS to do the work. 

I think under $500 at least, go with a LBS. In the price range you aren't getting *that* much of an upgrade vs. LBS, and you'll be better served by the free tune-ups and support from your LBS. A few trips to a LBS with an online bike will change the cost equation. Online bikes become more debatable at the higher end, especially $1,000+.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

I checked out the LBS and they dont' have much to choose from. They deal in Giant bikes and I didn't like any of them. The one he recommended me to was a $500 bike and it didn't even have disc brakes. I'm not worried about the free tune ups. A bit of youtubing and I can do that myself. Only thing I would need the LBS for is truing the wheels at $8 a wheel. I should be able to do the deraileurs myself. (experience from crappy walmart bikes). I don't mind tuning myself. Makes it fun and adventurous!


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## XCSKIBUM (Mar 15, 2010)

gemini9 said:


> I checked out the LBS and they dont' have much to choose from. They deal in Giant bikes and I didn't like any of them. The one he recommended me to was a $500 bike and it didn't even have disc brakes. I'm not worried about the free tune ups. A bit of youtubing and I can do that myself. Only thing I would need the LBS for is truing the wheels at $8 a wheel. I should be able to do the deraileurs myself. (experience from crappy walmart bikes). I don't mind tuning myself. Makes it fun and adventurous!


You don't need the LBS for truing wheels either.

Do some research, it's not as hard or complicated as you might think. I learned on motorcycles when my local motorcycle shop told me that my wheel could not be laced W/the spokes I had. Since they were the spokes that came out of the wheel before it was dismantled for chroming, I knew they were full of $HIT. I laced the wheel myself & took it in for truing. I latter learned to do my own truing "on the bike". (motorcycle)

You can true a wheel on the bike W/some improvised tools. A spoke nipple wrench is all you need, the rest can be improvised from any well equiped tool box.

On lock out forks:

Front fork LO is a good thing to have when you stand on the pedals while climbing. I does make a diference. It allows one to have the spring rates turned down for ample dampening while giving the stiff LO characteristics on the climb when you get up on the pedals & really get down on the stroke.

W/O a LO. you CAN turn the spring preload up to prevent pogoing of the fork on hard climbs, but then you give up some much needed dampening of hard bumps, rock, logs, etc. on the DH or level portions of the trail. up here in the Adirondacks, I use my LO (that has a handlebar mounted control) a LOT.

*EDIT: References to mechanical LO deleted as i was responding to the wrong OP*


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## faceplant72 (Oct 25, 2009)

gemini9 said:


> So it sounds to me like a lock out on the front fork is pretty much not such a big deal and shouldn't be a big factor in the final decision on a new/first bike.


I agree. A lockout on the front really doesn't make you more efficient and why disable the shock absorbing capability that is cost you extra weight and money.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

If you are getting a bike with suspension either front only or front and rear there's no point restricting it. Making all kind of adjustment to compression, rebound, low/high speed, even travel adj are great but locking out is just not one I consider important. I can see it being useful for some racers as they may need the psychological boost by using lock out.

Like faceplant said if you are not using the suspension why carry the extra weight.


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## hdparrish (Jan 24, 2008)

As GotoDengo wrote, Fork lockout has very limited practicality--it helps when you're on pavement or when you're hammering (mashing) up long, steep climbs.

I just purchased a fork with lockout--I wanted one, but I didn't feel the need to pay extra for the remote. I just can't see myself using it often enough to justify the extra cost, weight, and clutter.


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## XCSKIBUM (Mar 15, 2010)

hdparrish said:


> As GotoDengo wrote, Fork lockout has very limited practicality--it helps when you're on pavement or when you're hammering (mashing) up long, steep climbs.
> 
> I just purchased a fork with lockout--I wanted one, but I didn't feel the need to pay extra for the remote. I just can't see myself using it often enough to justify the extra cost, weight, and clutter.


Clutter? Yes maybe but my pop-lock is only a short cable & small lever on the bars that tucks in pretty unobtrussively.

Weight? I hardly think 18" of cable & a very small lever adds more than a few onces @ most.

Cost? I got luckey & found a Rock Shox Recon 351 U-Turn W/poplock on e-bay. New OE take-off.

I do not have a remote on my Fox RP23 rear shock so the poplock makes the front quick & easy to lock/unlock freeing my other hand to reach down between my legs to lock/unlock the rear shock.

On the type of trails I ride I keep the spring rates turned down for plush, dampening on the flats/DH & LO @ the bottom of upgrades.

My riding is more XC as I often ride 10-15 miles, sometimes more in an uphill trend into the Adirondacks on tarmac to access trails/logging roads/abandoned RR grades that can sometimes be pretty rough. There is a HUGE difference in locked Vs unlocked front fork on long upgrades unless one has the preload cranked down. Since I use the full 135mm of travel on my fork, it seems ludicrous to me to crank down the preload & sacrifice dampening.

I often ride 40 miles or more in a day, often more than 1/2 of that distance on tarmac especially in the spring when everything up here on the tundra is spongey off the roads..

I seldom haul my bike on a rack to access trails. I live in a very rural area & a days ride can sometimes take me from sun-up to near sundown & encompass 40-60 miles or more. I ride logging roads public forest access trails, truck trails & there are miles of abandoned RR grades from the logging industry. And yes, there are sometimes miles of tarmac in between.

From mid March to mid September last year I rode 3,850+ miles.


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## hdparrish (Jan 24, 2008)

XCSKIBUM said:


> Clutter? Yes maybe but my pop-lock is only a short cable & small lever on the bars that tucks in pretty unobtrussively.
> 
> Weight? I hardly think 18" of cable & a very small lever adds more than a few onces @ most.


I think you are overreacting in the name of defensiveness.

The point I was trying to make--and I thought it an obvious one--is that I didn't feel the need to add something to my bike that I would seldom use, so I didn't.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

hdparrish said:


> I think you are overreacting in the name of defensiveness.
> 
> The point I was trying to make--and I thought it an obvious one--is that I didn't feel the need to add something to my bike that I would seldom use, so I didn't.


I'm with you on this, not to say lock out is not good to some but the more you use it the more you depend on it. It'd also promote more bushing wear. If you are climbing and the fork is bobbing to much then either you don't have the fork set up right or you are putting to much weight on the front end and not using your core enough. It's best to let the fork do what it does best compress:thumbsup:


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## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

I use my lock-out a lot, but I think its because I ride 1 X 9 and with no granny gear I need to stand up to mash on the pedals on the steeper climbs. I also use it on the road to get to my trails.


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## Surly Gentleman (Aug 9, 2010)

as with most features on bikes, it depends on what kind of trails you ride... i use the lock out on my forks all the time on the climbs here in the front range and, although not as often, i lock out the rear too. i also ride a fully rigid ss so i'm used to being able to stand and mash up some of the smoother climbs... 

buy what suits your needs for the trails you ride...


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