# Fork flex, loose headset, or something else?



## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

When I lock the front brake and rock my bike back and forth, it feels like the fork is flexing. My headset is tight, so this shouldn't be the problem.

When I put the front wheel up against the wall and push the bike forward, it doesn't flex, which is confusing. Does this mean the play is in my brakes?


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

More info please. Bike and fork? There usually is some play and a little flex. Try this, first check front wheel for tightness and secure it well. 9 mm qr or 15 mm thru axle? Then lock up the front brake and rock it back and forth. Feel the top and bottom of the headset for play, there should be none for a 1-1/8th threadless. Start there.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

Your headset can be tight but stem is what holds the fork

Loosen headset, loosen stem. Push on bars, tighten headset to preload. Tighten bars

Your headset cap doesnt need to be super tight. It is only used to get the bars down low.

Also check spacers they should be slightly above the fork tube

If that isn't it check to make sure brake rotors are tight


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Could be anything. Loose headset, loose qr/thru axle, loose hubs, flexy fork, normal brake pad movement, tire deformation, etc.

Your 4 sentences don't help anyone diagnose your problem. None of us can see what you're seeing or hear what you're hearing.


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

since there's no play when the wheel can't move teels me it could be a brake issue (centerlock rotor not tight enough or 2 piece rotor with loose rivets or the caliper bolts have no loctite on and got wiggled loose)


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## Guest (Oct 27, 2015)

All disc brakes have some amount of play in them, it's normal. To Isolate your headset and wheels, turn the front wheel 90 degrees (either way) lock the brake and push it back and forth. If it's not rocking it's your brakes most of the time. You can check all the fasteners and even see if you can turn the spacers under the stem (they shouldn't be turnable by hand pressure). Brakes move slightly because the pads are slightly smaller than the caliper (you don't want a crush fit) to allow them to move freely (especially if they're a little dirty.


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## tualmbr (Jul 18, 2015)

The front of my brand new bike has a "clunk" - I thought the same things - is it a fork bearing? Is it something loose? I put the front wheel in the air, hold on the brake, and the wheel will clunk forward/backward about 2mm. The rear didn't do this so I assumed something was loose - the tech said that all bikes have a little play in the front. As far as I can tell, the front brake pads/caliper are allowing for the minor movement. Still strange why the rear would not have the exact same issue.


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2015)

Brake pad play is much less perceptible in the rear wheel. It's a combination of factors, mostly it's mounted more solidly and it covers up the effect better.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

After examining all of the spots that everyone's listed so far, I decided to feel the fork stanchions where they meet the dust wipers. With the brake locked I can feel the stanchions wobbling inside the dust wipers. I'm not sure what to make of it.


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

What is the fork and how old is it?


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## shortnangry (Nov 16, 2014)

Where are you feeling the play? A loose headset will feel distinctly loose in the bars. Fork flex you'll feel lower down. What you described in your post is not typically a brake issue. How many miles are on the fork and what fork is it? If there is play in the stanchions by the dust wipers you'd expect bad seals and oil on the stanchions and/or wear on the stanchions. Rule out the front hub by rocking the front wheel side-to-side (that will also rule out QR or TA looseness). Next stand in front of the bike facing it with the wheel between your legs. Grab and hold the front brake and squeeze the front wheel between your knees. Turn your foot in and use it to chock the wheel. Now lift the rear of the bike off the ground by tipping the bike forward. A loose headset or bad headset bearings will have play in the bars when you rock the bike up and down. When adjusting the headset make sure to loosen the stem bolts all the way. Then adjust with the bolt in the stem cap which preloads the headset. Only after getting that tension correct - just tight enough for no play but as loose as possible - do you tighten the stem bolts. If that doesn't do it check the fork off the bike and without the wheel to isolate any confounding factors. I'd rule out the headset before looking at the fork unless the fork seals have a lot of mileage and/or there are signs of wear on the stanchion indicating bad seals.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Honda Guy said:


> After examining all of the spots that everyone's listed so far, I decided to feel the fork stanchions where they meet the dust wipers. With the brake locked I can feel the stanchions wobbling inside the dust wipers. I'm not sure what to make of it.


all forks do this to some degree (except maybe Lefty). they do it less when they are brand new and nicer (more expensive) forks have less play than cheaper forks.


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## stingray (Mar 12, 2014)

Grab the front brake and position your fingers on the headset bearings. That will reveal if the play is there or elsewhere.


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## Honda Guy (Mar 29, 2011)

Just wanted to update, I called X Fusion customer support. Since my fork is an older model, there's a chance that it is meant to be set at 100mm only, not 130mm even though it is possible to convert it to that travel. This is what is causing the wobble at the stanchions.


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## tualmbr (Jul 18, 2015)

On this thread - I mentioned how my front feels like the brake is a little loose - and most have said that is normal to an extent.. While riding down a hill yesterday, I had the front brake on for about 1/2 the hill, started hearing and feeling the front brakes make a pronounced grating/grinding noise - is this too somewhat normal or should I ask them to put new pads on? Some sort of adjustment? Return the dam bike altogether before more of it falls apart?


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## jimmyhackers (5 mo ago)

the clunk your hearing is the pads sticking before settling(clunking) into an optimal position.

this is caused by excess friction between the caliper piston face and the back face of the pad.

i had this on my bike. the remedy was high tempreture copper grease applied sparingly to the rear of the pad. make utmost care not to contaminate any other part of your bike or the brakes pad material with grease.


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