# ok. help removing cranks!!!



## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

i have a crank puller and can get the chainring side off. how do you get the rest apart? the specialized site says these are my cranks....

Shimano FC-M442, Octalink Spline,


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

i cant get the crank axle out of the bottom bracket.


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## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

So you were able to get the drive side crank off? A picture is worth a thousand words, remember.


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)




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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

*BB tool*

You need the correct BB removal/install tool. There's a few different types. LBS will charge about $20 for said tool. Here's the Shimano PDF http://bike.shimano.com.br/publish/content/global_cycle/pt/br/index/products/mountain/non-series_components.download.-Par50rparsys-0001-downloadFile.html/Non%20Series%20MTB%20Components.pdf..

SEE PAGE 2 OF THE PDF..............

Drew


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

If you had the crank puller to remove the drive side, the same puller should also remove the non-drive side...........


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

006_007 said:


> If you had the crank puller to remove the drive side, the same puller should also remove the non-drive side...........


yeah but that will just pull the crank off the axle right? my new race face cranks have a different spline pattern.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

ahhhh, that is a completely different question the....

That is an octalink (shimano) bottom bracket - it will not be compatible with raceface cranks.

You will need to get a bottom bracket that is compatible with your raceface cranks (note, newer x-type bottom brackets typically come with the new bb).

You will also need a bottom bracket removal tool to remove the shimano bb, and possibly a different bb tool to re-install the new bb (depending on what crankset/bb you have as new)


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## Larry_K (Jul 10, 2010)

nate. said:


> yeah but that will just pull the crank off the axle right? my new race face cranks have a different spline pattern.


Yes, it will just pull the non drive side crank arm off, you'll need to get a BB tool to get the current one out and then another to install the new one. Probably around $15 or so for each tool.

I think the Park Tool BBT-22 is the one you'd want for removing the current one, they do also make a cheaper version that is a bit smaller: BBT-32.

Larry


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

As I have said before...you need to learn to look up the info on the manufacturer's websites and figure out what you are doing before you start. That is a big part of the process. It is not just drink beer, blindly order parts, pick up a random tool and bang away.

Or you can just hope we keep doing it for you....

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI-0086A-001/SI-0086A-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830657937.pdf

http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051856&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&bmUID=iGDhfiT

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

PLEASE bookmark the Park Tool repair website and refer to it in the future.

Do your own research before you ask questions and you will learn much more quickly.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I like nate. He has two mountain bikes and has been off-road once. (Is that right?)

nate., your new crank uses a completely different system. It's a two-piece crank - there's a right arm with the axle attached, and a left arm. The old crank is a three-piece crank. The right arm, left arm, and axle are three separate parts.

The above poster gives some links showing specific instructions for installing and removing three-piece cranks, including the bottom bracket.

Now go ride.  And maybe buy a fixie to bolt money onto.


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## waterdude (Jun 28, 2010)

gmcttr said:


> As I have said before...you need to learn to look up the info on the manufacturer's websites and figure out what you are doing before you start. That is a big part of the process. It is not just drink beer, blindly order parts, pick up a random tool and bang away.
> 
> Or you can just hope we keep doing it for you....
> 
> ...


Condescending prick much?  Yes, he could've done some web research, but what does it hurt to answer a question without the GD sarcasm? :nono:


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## xenon (Apr 16, 2007)

You need to remove the non-drive side crankarm, just like you did the right crank. Then you will have to remove the BB (a 3-piece BB tool needed). 
First, unscrew the retainer nut on the non-drive side (a regular thread, loosening counter-clockwise), then remove the BB itself from the right side (a reverse thread, loosening clockwise). Then you will need to install the new crank/BB combination(a dedicated tool needed).
Not sure, if it is worth the trouble - why buy the 3-piece BB tool, that you won't need any more once the current BB is out?


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## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

Quit slamming him and answer the damn question. I have a mountain bike that I've poured over $700 into personally and I've been on true singletrack once. Do you have a problem with me now? It is his money; let him do what he wants with it. Sorry, but when people say this, it pisses me off.


AndrwSwitch said:


> I like nate. He has two mountain bikes and has been off-road once. (Is that right?)


Happy holidays, chief.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I think one of the things I like about nate. is he has the self-recognition to title his threads stuff like "I need to quit drinking." I think there are a ton of mountain bikes, and have been since they became available as production bikes, that never go off-road, or at least never go off fire roads. While I don't think that MTBs are the best equipment choice for a bike that stays on roads, for someone who's not comfortable on a road bike, the alternatives aren't that great - hybrids pretty much suck, although I guess they're supposed to be getting better. And nate. is planning to do more trail riding, or says he is. I'm also not saying I wouldn't bolt a lot more money to my bike if it fit my budget right now, although my build is getting a little silly for the frame it's on.

I did the upgradeitis thing myself when I first bought my bike - I got lightweight, flat handlebars almost immediately, because that's what I had in college. I like them, but the advice I give is to try to fit with stem changes before moving on to handlebars, and I still had to replace the stem too. Silly. A new suspension fork followed very quickly, and bar ends. If I hadn't had my old clipless pedals still sitting around, I'm sure I'd have bought those too. That was probably with fewer than half a dozen rides on that bike.

If we can't make fun of someone a little bit for putting the cart before the horse or having something with 140 mm of travel front and back, a double crown fork, and a chain guide/bash guard to ride up and down the paved MUP that they drive to in their clean, new jacked up Jeep with a set of rally lights added on, what's the internet for? (I also can't help making fun of people driving around in Escalades with pro-level tri bikes strapped to the top, if that helps.  )


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

Effin pricks. I put in another 20 miles on the trails today before work. Where were you? Exactly.

The new cranks came with a new bottom bracket. Ill stop at the shop tomorrow and get the required tools.


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## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

Nice :thumbsup:


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## TwoHeadsBrewing (Aug 28, 2009)

Wow, that is the most dickish reply I think I've ever seen on this site. Do everyone a favor and take some Midol for your cramps next time. If you don't like the question he asked, don't answer. I do find it funny that you whined about him posting a question, then went ahead and answered it. We all started out somewhere and needed a helping hand, and the internet is a great medium for finding this help. Except of course, when there are people like you being giant douuchenozzles.

@Nate: Keep on riding man, and disregard guys like that. I highly recommend checking out http://bicycletutor.com/. I've recently started doing my own work, and the videos on there are short and easy to follow.



gmcttr said:


> As I have said before...you need to learn to look up the info on the manufacturer's websites and figure out what you are doing before you start. That is a big part of the process. It is not just drink beer, blindly order parts, pick up a random tool and bang away.
> 
> Or you can just hope we keep doing it for you....
> 
> ...


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## claydough001 (Apr 30, 2010)

This is the "Beginner's Corner" dingleberry. Dont lurk around waiting for a beginner to post up a question just to be the first to get all "Kanye" on him to make yourself feel like a Veteran Bill Nye the Mountain Bike Guy. Nate simply asked a question. If it bothers you then your a gay fish. :thumbsup:


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## claydough001 (Apr 30, 2010)

Now to answer your question Nate. I have no idea what the hell you need because im a beginner. ahahahahahahhaha! Funky Cole Medina is playing in my head.


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## BunnV (Sep 7, 2005)

claydough001 said:


> ........ Dont lurk around waiting for a beginner to post up a question just to be the first to get all "Kanye" on him to make yourself feel like a Veteran Bill Nye the Mountain Bike Guy.


AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Agreed!


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Hey hey hey you watch what you say about hybrids b1tches !


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

i just wanna go on record and state that i like beer.





































and boobies.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

nate. said:


> i just wanna go on record and state that i like beer.
> 
> and boobies.


Damn straight....


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

nate., when you pick up the BB removal tool from your LBS, make sure you hold it tight against the BB while you're unscrewing. You can use your wheel's quick-release to bolt everything together (just run it through the BB spindle.) Otherwise the tool may slip and chew up the interface of the BB.

Also, it's probably easiest to remove the lockring side first (non-drive side.)


Kinda sucks changing from one type of crankset to another because you have to buy the second set of tools. But at least you'll have them in the event you work on any other bikes in the future. Make sure you use grease or anti-seize on the new bottom bracket cups, and maybe a thin film of grease on the new crankset's spindle. Will help when going to remove it later.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

That doesn't look like a standard cartridge bb to me. Look at the bottom pic. There's no splines.

Is there a spacer that needs to be removed to reveal the splines?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Sorry for being such an a$$hat folks.

I was just trying to teach a guy to figure it out before he tore into it and turned a couple of hour job into having his bike torn apart for a couple of days while he shopped for tools.

This started back in the thread where the new crankset was bought thinking the BB was the same for both cranks.

Have fun...I'm done.


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## hardtailkid (Jan 25, 2010)

gmcttr said:


> Sorry for being such an a$$hat folks.
> 
> I was just trying to teach a guy to figure it out before he tore into it and turned a couple of hour job into having his bike torn apart for a couple of days while he shopped for tools.
> 
> ...


Understandable...but try to get to that point in a less rude way next time. :thumbsup:


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## xenon (Apr 16, 2007)

rlouder said:


> That doesn't look like a standard cartridge bb to me. Look at the bottom pic. There's no splines.
> 
> Is there a spacer that needs to be removed to reveal the splines?


It is just the lighting in the photo, take a closer look, you will see the splines. I had (and, hopefully, solved) a problem with my own Shimano Octalink BB just couple of days ago, the BB in the pic looks exactly the same.


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## nate. (Oct 10, 2010)

picked up an internal bb tool and got the cranks swapped today.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Nice. Can you feel a difference?

My brain says I shouldn't, but I could swear I get a more positive response from my SLX crank than I did from the previous 400-level three-piece set.


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