# New Light Bicycle 38mm rims?



## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

I am in the proces of ordering a wide Chinese wheelset and was deciding between Light Bicycle and Nextie 35mm rims when I spotted this new model:









New mtb project for 38mm wide 650B and 29er rims Light-Bicycle

It looks to feature a slightly thicker 3mm width and a new beadlock as well...

decision decisions


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Much thicker where the rim meets the tire. Hmmm.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Damn, that's nice.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Wow very nice indeed.


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## jeffreyjhsu (Jun 22, 2004)

Seems kind of heavy given that Hed 80 mm fat Bike tire rim is only 445 grams.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

jeffreyjhsu said:


> Seems kind of heavy given that Hed 80 mm fat Bike tire rim is only 445 grams.


The reason the Hed 80mm fat bike rim is so light cause its a single wall rim.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I'm just about to get a set. ERD of 536mm. 
Very tempting as the ERD may allows me to use the current spokes


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

heatstroke said:


> I'm just about to get a set. ERD of 536mm.
> Very tempting as the ERD may allows me to use the current spokes


Best to measure it yourself. Cause most likely the measurement is not correct.


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

That's a good looking rim design. Very interesting, as it doesn't look like a copy of some other product. Is LB coming up with their own ideas now?

These are a compelling option vs Derby or Nox IMO.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

ACree said:


> That's a good looking rim design. Very interesting, as it doesn't look like a copy of some other product. Is LB coming up with their own ideas now?
> 
> These are a compelling option vs Derby or Nox IMO.


The 29er version actually has a wider ID than Derby Rims.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I just pulled the trigger. 
Hopefully the ERD is correct. It was spot on for the 35mm version.
I'll keep you all updated when I get the rims.


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## Slee_Stack (Apr 14, 2010)

Not too different from the Nextie 40mm?


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Slee_Stack said:


> Not too different from the Nextie 40mm?


Nextie 40mm (35mm internal) has 2.5mm sidewalls. These may be tougher, with their 3.2mm sidewall width.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Looks very similar to NOBL product

Specifications | NOBL Wheels | Online Store

Can anyone confirm if thats where NOBL gets their stuff from?

Edit - it appears the NOBL wheels have offset spoke holes


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

heatstroke said:


> I just pulled the trigger.
> Hopefully the ERD is correct. It was spot on for the 35mm version.
> I'll keep you all updated when I get the rims.


actually ERD is 535mm for 27.5x38mm (carbon 650b rims 38mm wide hookless mountain bike rims tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle)
which is exactly (or very close) to the ERD of my 26" Flow/FlowEX wheels so I'm also very tempted to order 2 sets and convert my wheels and re-use the spokes/hubs laced. Now I need to find how cheap to relaced (or true the wheels after a rough remount).


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I received 2 sets of ERD quotes from LB. 535 and 536. I think ( though did not verify with LB) that the 536 is for the DH version which they build up with more carbon.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

heatstroke said:


> I received 2 sets of ERD quotes from LB. 535 and 536. I think ( though did not verify with LB) that the 536 is for the DH version which they build up with more carbon.


Both sets of LB carbon rims that I built had ERD's that measured different than stated. I believe LB only lists a physical rim measurement. IE: I do not believe that LB considers spoke nipple height into their ERD.

If that's the case, it's not a big deal, but it simply needs to be considered. Spank lists their ERD as '++' which means they list the rim measurement and you are to include your spoke nipple height when determining the ERD and spoke length.

I actually like that they're adopting such an approach, because it makes it very clear.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

06HokieMTB said:


> Both sets of LB carbon rims that I built had ERD's that measured different than stated. I believe LB only lists a physical rim measurement. IE: I do not believe that LB considers spoke nipple height into their ERD.
> 
> If that's the case, it's not a big deal, but it simply needs to be considered. Spank lists their ERD as '++' which means they list the rim measurement and you are to include your spoke nipple height when determining the ERD and spoke length.
> 
> I actually like that they're adopting such an approach, because it makes it very clear.


They don't all measure the same way ??? I mean they don't know what nipple height will be used, so why wouldn't they measure the rim seat distance ?
reading from this link it appears they do this as well.

Specifications | NOBL Wheels | Online Store

"ERD should be measured on each rim as it may vary, this is common with all rims. This measurement is to the nipple seat. For some spoke length calculators, you will need to enter the ERD including the height of the nipple head you are building with. For example, for the 38mm 27.5" rims you would enter 544mm for a standard 2x12mm nipple. We have had good luck with this calculator by entering the nipple seat ERD 541 (also listed on the NOBL rims at the valve hole)"

I really hope LB measures their rim the same way as Stans - right now LB 650bx38mm ERD is the same as 26" Flow/FlowEX (within 1mm or 2) so that could open up all market of people converting old 26 wheels to wide 27.5 which I'm seriously considering. Having to buy all new spokes and added hassle of relacing might not be worth vs buying their wheelset (unless you have really expensive hubs).


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

adumesny said:


> They don't all measure the same way ???


Nope, and this is nothing unique to LB. It is the reason online spoke calculators are all over the board, and why most pro wheelbuilders recommend measuring your own ERD (so you know exactly how it was measured).



> From Sheldon Brown:
> Effective Rim Diameter. This is the rim diameter measured at the nipple seats in the spoke holes, *plus the thickness of the two nipple heads*.


Different from Nobls definition above. SB is kind of considered definitive.
I would expect the stack height of various nippple brands probably differs too.

In the end, my experience has been that if your spoke length is off 2mm as a result of ERD misunderstandings, it usually works out just fine. Not always though.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Quote Originally Posted by Atomik Carbon View Post
> LB is not a manufacturer....have you not figured it out yet?..

if not, who is and how can we buy them directly from the manufacturer ?

their rims at $180 are not as good a value as their wheelset at ~$600 when you consider hubs+bladed Spokes+nipple+labor.

There are also those 38mm rims - anybody knows about ICAN ? Ican 26er Carbon All Mountain Wheelset 38mm Rim Wide 32 32h Bitex Hub 6 Pawls | eBay (they won't support 135x12 so I can't use them)


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

heatstroke what did you pay, including s&h?


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## NOBLwheels (Nov 25, 2014)

FM said:


> Nope, and this is nothing unique to LB. It is the reason online spoke calculators are all over the board, and why most pro wheelbuilders recommend measuring your own ERD (so you know exactly how it was measured).
> 
> Different from Nobls definition above. SB is kind of considered definitive.
> I would expect the stack height of various nippple brands probably differs too.
> ...


I definitely recommend measuring your rims ERD in the way that works best for your calculator. There are very large companies that have different opinions on how to measure things, what's the right way to do things (just read about spoke lacing if you want to drive yourself crazy). I have a spoke calculator page on my site that should help clear things up and I have a video on measuring your rims. There is a link to the Pro wheel builder calculator that I have found works very well. It has a huge list of rims and hubs so you can use their drop down menu to get the information. Measuring hubs can be tricky, so it is nice to have the work done for you (and I can attest that it is quite accurate in my experience).

I see that some people recommend measuring to the nipple slot. When you look at the nipple slot, you can see that it's the same height as where the nipple would come to rest in the rim. So in other words, this "nipple seat" measurement you see from LB and others should still get you pretty close for spoke length. (If you entered that measurement on a calculator that defines ERD as the diameter from the nipple head to nipple head). It will just mean your spokes will only come to the slot, and not the top of the nipple (in theory), which is okay.

If you are using 2x14mm nipples with raised heads, you can round your spoke length up 1mm if you are using the nipple seat measurement as the ERD in your calculator.

Another thing you might not have considered is that some companies offer rims with an extra layer of carbon on the inside. We do this as well. This helps the rims deal with higher pressure and makes them stiffer. It does not add thickness to the lips, it's just on the inside walls. This can add thickness to the nipple seat as well. So you could end up needing slightly longer spokes if you order a rim with the extra layer.

When you lace your wheels, you should be able to tighten all of the nipples down until just 2 threads are showing, and the spokes should not be very tight at this point. If the spokes have a decent amount of tension, then that would tell me that your spokes are probably going to be too short.


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## NOBLwheels (Nov 25, 2014)

006_007 said:


> Looks very similar to NOBL product
> 
> Specifications | NOBL Wheels | Online Store
> 
> ...


We used to buy some of their rims before we developed our own product. Our 650b rims were built to be super tough- We have 3.5mm thick lips, bead set bump, and our asymmetrical design allows for much more even spoke tension. That's one thing that bothered us, with the symmetrical rims of the past, you'd get 125kg/f on one side and be fighting for ~70 on the low tension side. The low tension spokes are much more susceptible to unwind and cause the wheel to become out of dish and need re-tensioning more often.

We released out 650b rim in August this year followed shortly after by our 30/36mm 29" rim which uses 3mm lips and is slightly shallower but still asymmetrical.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

NOBLwheels said:


> - We have 3.5mm thick lips.


:ihih:


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

NOBLwheels said:


> We used to buy some of their rims before we developed our own product. Our 650b rims were built to be super tough- We have 3.5mm thick lips, bead set bump, and our asymmetrical design allows for much more even spoke tension. That's one thing that bothered us, with the symmetrical rims of the past, you'd get 125kg/f on one side and be fighting for ~70 on the low tension side. The low tension spokes are much more susceptible to unwind and cause the wheel to become out of dish and need re-tensioning more often.
> 
> We released out 650b rim in August this year followed shortly after by our 30/36mm 29" rim which uses 3mm lips and is slightly shallower but still asymmetrical.


Must have been a lot of R&D to get to a cost approaching Enve level.


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## NOBLwheels (Nov 25, 2014)

ACree said:


> Must have been a lot of R&D to get to a cost approaching Enve level.


In Canada I see Enve rims selling for double the retail as our rims. I should mention that the rims on our website include shipping and they are available at Canadian bike shops for a bit less than what we have on our site. We added a a USD currency toggle at the top of the site recently, the default is Canadian.

Our real value statement is going to come in the from of wheelsets I believe. Retail ~$1300US/$1500 Canadian for Hope and $1500US/$1750 for Industry 9's including shipping.

To answer your question, yes it was very expensive to develop the rims. The time and $ commitment required was significant to say the least. It is surprising how fussy the numbers are to get right. We were making 0.2mm changes to our molds which costs thousands of dollars each time (shipping, engineering, labor etc).


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

Doh! :madman: didn't realize that was Canadian, was comparing ~600 Canadian to ~800 US. Yes, in USD you're in the Nox ballpark. Much more reasonable. :thumbsup:



NOBLwheels said:


> In Canada I see Enve rims selling for double the retail as our rims. I should mention that the rims on our website include shipping and they are available at Canadian bike shops for a bit less than what we have on our site. We added a a USD currency toggle at the top of the site recently, the default is Canadian.
> 
> Our real value statement is going to come in the from of wheelsets I believe. Retail ~$1300US/$1500 Canadian for Hope and $1500US/$1750 for Industry 9's including shipping.
> 
> To answer your question, yes it was very expensive to develop the rims. The time and $ commitment required was significant to say the least. It is surprising how fussy the numbers are to get right. We were making 0.2mm changes to our molds which costs thousands of dollars each time (shipping, engineering, labor etc).


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## bridgestone14 (Mar 22, 2005)

Any chance for some 26in rims from NOBL? I prefer 26in wheels and I will eventually buy the light bike rims if I can't find another option. I really like the idea of an asymmetric spoke bed, never understood why more companies don't do this.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

376 for 2 DH rims. Shipping in my case was 50USD to malaysia


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Thx HS


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## NOBLwheels (Nov 25, 2014)

bridgestone14 said:


> Any chance for some 26in rims from NOBL? I prefer 26in wheels and I will eventually buy the light bike rims if I can't find another option. I really like the idea of an asymmetric spoke bed, never understood why more companies don't do this.


Hi Bridgestone, Canadian bike shops have been wanting a lighter weight line of XC/trail 650b and 29" rims from us. Our first line is pretty heavy duty. We're going to pursue that first but are open to 26". We don't have a design for 26" right now because we want to test the Schwalbe procore system and see if it makes sense to build a 26 around that system. Certainly there are exceptions, but generally speaking a lot of the 26" guys are pretty hard riders or on DH bikes, so we see value with the procore system.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Does anyone have these yet? I'm curious to the actual ERD of these rims. My 26" I9 enduro rims are marked 532mm so these could be a direct swap with the same spokes if the ERD is as stated!


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Acme54321 said:


> Does anyone have these yet? I'm curious to the actual ERD of these rims. My 26" I9 enduro rims are marked 532mm so these could be a direct swap with the same spokes if the ERD is as stated!


You just need to figure out if your 532mm ERD includes nipple heads or not. LB does not include them, but many/most brands do.

You could also look at how far the spokes extend into the nipples on your current wheels. +/-2mm ERD difference might well be OK unless the spokes are min/max length on your current wheels.

I have a set of Sun-ringle charger pro 29'ers, and I did a lace-over with LB rims last year. The ERDs were slightly different due to their dimensioning practices, but the lace-over went smooth & easy and the wheels have worked out awesome. It's worth doing the homework!


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

FM said:


> You just need to figure out if your 532mm ERD includes nipple heads or not. LB does not include them, but many/most brands do.


I'm learning this to be true as well. And very annoying. If they wish to list a true bead seat diameter, awesome. But there is no industry standard "ERD" protocol.

I, too, have done a relace on a rim that had a larger ERD than the rim it was replacing. The spoke calculators said that the spokes were 1-1.5mm too short. Rim laced up just fine.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Yeah I'm going to have to call i9 to see how they measure. Personally I think measuring from the nipple seat makes more sense than from the top of the nipple head.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Acme54321 said:


> Personally I think measuring from the nipple seat makes more sense than from the top of the nipple head.


Agreed! Good luck..


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Acme54321 said:


> Yeah I'm going to have to call i9 to see how they measure. Personally I think measuring from the nipple seat makes more sense than from the top of the nipple head.


yeah I think so too. Granted they should denote it like ERD 535mm++ or such to let you know to add nipple head thread for correct spoke length.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Has anyone put their hands on these yet?


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

My rims are on there way


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## heyhey (Oct 27, 2011)

spunk-how long did it take to ship? I ordered mine about a week ago.

Also i have my own hope pro 2 evo hubs that I'm going to lace up. I ordered the pillar spokes that they use as well. Only problem is that I am calculating different lengths than they want/are going to send me for 3x (front is good, but rear are off).

Rear left:257mm, right: 259mm is what they use to build the hope pro 2 hubs with 14mm pillar nipples.

My calculations using 535 ERD and measurements from hope (hub dia L-56 R-54; flange dist L-33 R-20): L-258.7 and R-257.7 using 12mm nipples. I confirmed with two different people at LB. I'll probably just switch R and L spokes. Any ideas?
btw I used wheelpro.co.uk


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

wait and get an actual erd


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Acme54321 said:


> Has anyone put their hands on these yet?


Mine showed up last week. UD gloss, laced up to blue hope hubs, XD driver.
I am super impressed, they look awesome, build quality is really good. No wind up on the bladed spokes and the spoke tension is very even. The rims look HUGE.

Still waiting on the rest of my build so no rides or even tires mounted yet.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Nice, so you bought the full wheelset? I'm looking for someone to verify the ERD. The engrish response I got back from LB was less than assuring.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Acme54321 said:


> Nice, so you bought the full wheelset? I'm looking for someone to verify the ERD. The engrish response I got back from LB was less than assuring.


Yep. FWIW, I changed my order about 8 times during the wait, and the wheels showed up exactly as requested.

They also included some spare spokes & nipples. I could measure them if that would help for you, but not until the weekend since I'm traveling today/tomorrow. Of course they're for hope hubs but you might be able to cross reference...oh and also, not sure if they're for F/R, ND or NDS.... nice that they included spares though!


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

fishwrinkle said:


> wait and get an actual erd


From my experience with LB rims, the stated ERD is actually the nipple bed dimension. You have to add 2mm (x2) to include the spoke nipple height.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

FM said:


> Mine showed up last week. UD gloss, laced up to blue hope hubs, XD driver.
> I am super impressed, they look awesome, build quality is really good. No wind up on the bladed spokes and the spoke tension is very even. The rims look HUGE.
> 
> Still waiting on the rest of my build so no rides or even tires mounted yet.


I'm planning to order a similar wheelset. 28h front and 32 rear. Still liking yours?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

FM, are these the first LB you've tried, or can you compare to others?


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

My rims arrived a few days ago. They are stunning and huge in appearance compared to my 30mm LB rims. The weights were 426 & 432 grams. Gonna try and get them built up next week. This will be my 3rd set of rims from LB. I am always impressed by the quality.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

spunkmtb said:


> The weights were 326 & 332 grams.


In what wheel size? 16"?
I thought these were ~450g rims!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Mine came in at 418/427gm (AM build UD 32H) still haven't held them yet since they are at the builders (Dave Thomas)


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

ACree said:


> FM, are these the first LB you've tried, or can you compare to others?


Hey, I also have a set of 23mm internal width 29" rims on my hardtail. Had those for about 8 months and that bike/wheelset has been my go-to for XC stuff such as Bend, Or, Devils Gulch, TKW, etc. Those wheels have been great and seem pretty similar to the easton havon carbons I owned previously.

I have two short rides on the 38mm rims at TKE. These are definitely HUGER compared to any of the previous wheelsets I have owned. Been running 18f/20r psi and no issues even with jumps/drops at speed. (usually run 23f/28r). Also super stiff and reasonably light.

The only niggle... after seating a tire on one rim, I heard something loose inside...after removing the tire and valve core, I shook a small chunk of carbon out of the rim cavity. Not worried about it but worth mentioning.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

I personally wouldn't run anything that LB puts out since I think they are designed and manufactured poorly, especially if you are a bigger/harder rider. Two cracked rims for me in just 3 months time on mostly XC/trail riding and no perceivable rock strike. Both wheels were costly to build up and replace with fresh Sapim Bladed spokes and out of pocket for rim replacement. I was only offered $15 off retail (shipping is $45 alone) for last rim that cracked, a 35/30 27.5" that replaced the 30/23. Since then I have been on a NOX AM-275 and couldn't be happier over past 6+ months of hard riding without a niggle, just one wheel true after initial build.


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

I was about to pull the trigger on some 35s today when I came across the 38s and this thread.

What are LB touting as the main benefit of these over the 35s? Seems to be strength over anything.

My main concern of the 38s is that the extra strength plus significant extra height of the rim will add significant stiffness, and while one of the reasons for going with the carbon rims is the extra stiffness, I don't want to go OTT. Especially on a short travel bike, too much stiffness may be a bad thing.

Has anyone ridden the two rims to compare the two?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

You can read some reviews of the Ibis rims, which are slightly wider than these LBs.

Wider increases your tire volume, which allows you to run lower pressures. That is for sure.


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

FM said:


> You can read some reviews of the Ibis rims, which are slightly wider than these LBs.
> 
> Wider increases your tire volume, which allows you to run lower pressures. That is for sure.


Totally get that, maybe I should have added that the internal width difference on these two rims is only 1.8mm so the likely benefit of that is minimal, therefore LB obviously see the benefits in other areas.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Tenacious Doug said:


> ...the internal width difference on these two rims is only 1.6mm so the likely benefit of that is minimal, therefore LB obviously see the benefits in other areas.


well the bead wall is 3.2mm vs 2.5mm on the narrower rims, which is a big difference in strength against rock impact I would say. The other big difference is depth of 32mm vs 25mm but not sure the affect it has - given the only +20g material of the wider rim, it's got to be thinner in other parts of the rim. 

You are right 1.6mm wider internal width is negligible, but the rest is very different...it's odd they carry so many close rims IMO. Makes you wonder if they really manufacture rims as they claim, or simply shop around different vendors. Why would you do 35/30 and 38/31.6 ? seems odd...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

jgusta said:


> Two cracked rims for me in just 3 months time on mostly XC/trail riding and no perceivable rock strike. ...last rim that cracked, a 35/30 27.5" that replaced the 30/23. Since then I have been on a NOX AM-275 and couldn't be happier over past 6+ months of hard riding without a niggle, just one wheel true after initial build.


So you cracked a 35/30 27.5" (current model) and 30/23 27.5" (can't find that one) of recent vintage ?
Hookless carbon 650B mtb 35mm wide AM 27.5 rims tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle

I know they changed process a while ago, but it would be good to know if the current batches have build issues as well.
From what I've read so far, the 1y warranty might be a joke (if you have to pay close to full price on rim+ship anyway. $15 off is like no warranty)


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

adumesny said:


> The other big difference is depth of 32mm vs 25mm but not sure the affect it has


More aero 

I suspect the depth may lead to big increases in stiffness, but that's a hunch rather than informed technical opinion.



adumesny said:


> Why would you do 35/30 and 38/31.6 ? seems odd...


Perhaps it's a replacement. When I spoke to them on live chat they seemed pretty keen to push the new one over the older one as it was "better in every way", suggests the old one might be phased out. I asked for more info on stiffness in particular, they are going to e-mail me further details tomorrow and I'll report back


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Tenacious Doug said:


> [Alain] Why would you do 35/30 and 38/31.6 ? seems odd...
> 
> Perhaps it's a replacement. When I spoke to them on live chat they seemed pretty keen to push the new one over the older one as it was "better in every way", suggests the old one might be phased out.


yep, but they don't seem to stock any of those rims (why would it take 30 days to send them otherwise) so why keep producing them ?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

adumesny said:


> So you cracked a 35/30 27.5" (current model) and 30/23 27.5" (can't find that one) of recent vintage ?[/url]
> 
> I dunno but JGusta seems to break everything
> 
> ...


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

FM said:


> adumesny said:
> 
> 
> > So you cracked a 35/30 27.5" (current model) and 30/23 27.5" (can't find that one) of recent vintage ?[/url]
> ...


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Tenacious Doug said:


> FM said:
> 
> 
> > The 35mm are hookless already though?
> ...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

I was also looking at the 35s but am leaning toward the new 38s, I will probably put in an order today. 

Looks like they are too new to get any reviews but the 35 hookless seem to be doing pretty well...


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

adumesny said:


> So you cracked a 35/30 27.5" (current model) and 30/23 27.5" (can't find that one) of recent vintage ?
> Hookless carbon 650B mtb 35mm wide AM 27.5 rims tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle
> 
> I know they changed process a while ago, but it would be good to know if the current batches have build issues as well.
> From what I've read so far, the 1y warranty might be a joke (if you have to pay close to full price on rim+ship anyway. $15 off is like no warranty)


Yep, the wider hookless ones, 35mm faired much better than the hooked 30mm ones that were cracked within 3 weeks, whereas the 35 lasted almost 3 months (both built by same skilled wheel builder with same spokes). These were bought last year and ran between early May to late August. LB's custy service once you have an issue is quite poor and warranty is a total joke. Sorry to be downer on LB, but you really get what you pay for with these rims, if that.

At FM, yep have busted my share of Alu frames in past +5yrs, but carbon Bronson and NOX wheel is still going strong without a hiccup over past year of hard use. Doubt I will brake my new Honzo as well


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

FM said:


> Hey, I also have a set of 23mm internal width 29" rims on my hardtail. Had those for about 8 months and that bike/wheelset has been my go-to for XC stuff such as Bend, Or, Devils Gulch, TKW, etc. Those wheels have been great and seem pretty similar to the easton havon carbons I owned previously.
> 
> I have two short rides on the 38mm rims at TKE. These are definitely HUGER compared to any of the previous wheelsets I have owned. Been running 18f/20r psi and no issues even with jumps/drops at speed. (usually run 23f/28r). Also super stiff and reasonably light.
> 
> The only niggle... after seating a tire on one rim, I heard something loose inside...after removing the tire and valve core, I shook a small chunk of carbon out of the rim cavity. Not worried about it but worth mentioning.


Thanks, I suppose I'll pull the trigger and get a set coming. I've been running 23mm internal on my FS bike (mostly XC use) and didn't feel as much difference as I expected there coming from 19mm internal. These will be on my SS and mostly TKW type riding.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

If you want *stiff and durable* I think the new LB 38mm would pair nicely with a Velocity Blunt35 rear.

Yes, the Velocity Blunt 35 is heavy-ish (my 650b, 32h Blunt 35 rim weighs 542g). But it's a durable, proven AM alloy rim... and cheap to boot.

You could save some weight by buying the 28h Specialized Fattie AL rim (29mm internal), but I can't get a Spesh dealer to commit to pricing on one. It sounds as if the Big S is really only interested in selling wheelsets. (Obviously, they have loose rims available for warranty/replacement purposes, but they don't seem very eager to sell loose rims.)

For $508 (including $45 shipping for one rim from China and PayPal fees), I can build up a 28h, 3x, 1732g wheelset that would be wide, tough and stiff as hell.

g $
LB 38mm	440	233
Blunt35	542	70
Spokes	300	48
DT 350	172	58
MTB270	278	100

Total 1732g, $508


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

So now that some of you have these things has anyone measured the ERD?


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Here's some Info LB sent me on comparative test figures between the 35 & 38. They are pretty self explanatory. Impact strength and positive stiffness (which I assume is vertical stiffness) is much better than the 35, while lateral stiffness is similar.

I'm not an expert in wheels but my thought is the greater lateral stiffness will be offset by the lower spoke tension so my slight concern about these perhaps being too stiff is not an issue. Plus I don't expect to notice the lateral stiffness difference.

So overall, 38s should feel similar, with greater strength, marginally more weight but look much more badass because of the depth!


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

fefillo said:


> In what wheel size? 16"?
> I thought these were ~450g rims!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


650B. Also my post had a typo I meant to type 426 & 432. Also I requested them to be closer to 430 grams than 440


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

FM said:


> Tenacious Doug said:
> 
> 
> > I'm just saying, people should be careful to not judge the durability of carbon rims based on older hooked models...
> ...


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Wheels have arrived built up by Dave Thomas
The build used BHS MTB270 hubs with 54 POE and Sapim Dlight spokes
Front wheel is 772g, Rear wheel 868 with tape insatalled
Have yet to ride them since I am waiting for my Ibis HD3 frame
1640 gram, wide carbon wheelset with a high engagement hub for ~$700 built by hand... very happy with the specs so far.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

baltik said:


> ...Front wheel is 772g, Rear wheel 868 with tape insatalled...
> ...1640 gram, wide carbon wheelset...


Wow, that's pretty good. That's ~40g less than I calculate using listed specs for your build options, an my calcs don't even include tape!

Hey, quick question. Does the ~$700 include shipping / tax of various parts and labor costs?


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Looks like i was a tad optimistic, including tape, valve stems and all the fees and shipping the final cost was $809

Light Bicycle	$424.35
Build/spokes/nipples/tape/valve stems	$215
Hubs	$169.90


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Mine, on the new rig...


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

That's a great looking bike! 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

*38mm complete wheelset*

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks are better utilized differently in terms of price/performance/reliability (i.e. ordering just the rims, sourcing equivalent components myself and doing a pro or homebuild).

Here's the details of the build:
Rim: RM29C14 - All Mountain
Finish:matte 3K
Holes:Front 32H/Rear 32H
Spokeillar Aero X-TRA 1420
Hub: Hope 40T PRO 2 EVO 15mm/12*142mm

Thanks in advance for your input.

Note: I'm x-posting to a few of the related LB / chinese rims threads that I sub to, so I apologize if you see this in a few places.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

fefillo said:


> I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks ...doing a pro or homebuild).


why not order the complete build from them for ~800+ship instead of building it yourself ? (same parts). For that price, you might as well look at Ibis 941 wheels (41mm wide) which retail at $1299 (+150 for the newer DT hub) but can be discounted when ordering online (-13% competitiveCycle/Backcountry using activeJunky.com, -20% occasional coupon as well)


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

adumesny said:


> why not order the complete build from them for ~800+ship instead of building it yourself ? (same parts). For that price, you might as well look at Ibis 941 wheels (41mm wide) which retail at $1299 (+150 for the newer DT hub) but can be discounted when ordering online (-13% competitiveCycle/Backcountry using activeJunky.com, -20% occasional coupon as well)


Thanks for the feedback... a few points to clarify.
My complete build from LB with the Hope upgrade comes to $843 + $78 shipping. This is my current preferred option. My 2 areas of concern are the spokes (not a lot of history out there on the Pillar 1420's, but have not seen any catastrophic feedback either) and the overall build quality of LB only vs a probuild. I'm assuming LB doing the build can't be worse than doing it myself.

The problem with the Ibis suggestion is that then (with the DT upgrade) I'm at an almost $1500 wheelset for equivalent components and the 41mm width feels like way too much for me. I originally wanted LB 35/30 rim, but liked the other design improvements the 38mm had to offer.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

fefillo - I had the same dilemma as you and have ridden Hope all my life. Ultimately I chose to go with a high engagement OEM quality hub that had a good reputation and had US distribution with many spares available (bikehubstore). By sacrificing the hubs I was able to hit an ~$800 price and get them hand built by a great builder to my specifications. Frankly hubs are a bit of a commodity as long as they are highly reliable, highly adaptable and have sufficient POE. Sure it's great to have a bling set of Kings or I9 but I feel that $ is better spent elsewhere.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

fefillo said:


> I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a complete wheelset from LB and wanted to hear your opinion / experience if my ~$1000 bucks are better utilized differently in terms of price/performance/reliability (i.e. ordering just the rims, sourcing equivalent components myself and doing a pro or homebuild).
> 
> Here's the details of the build:
> Rim: RM29C14 - All Mountain
> ...


I have a year on my LB wheelset and still going strong. The wheelset was true, spoke tension even, and spoke lengths about .5-1mm from perfect, that's within an acceptable range. I usually build my own wheels but really wanted to try out the Pillar 1420 aero spokes and have gotten lazy in my old age so had them build the wheels. Seemed too complicated to order the spokes from them without the hubs and rims in my hands to verify the ERD and flange diameters plus there was no additional cost for the build.

2 things that don't bother me but others might be. They didn't lube the spoke threads. I rather have no lube over locktite or Spokeprep on the threads. And they 2-cross laced both front and rear drive sides, so you may have to specify what lacing pattern you want.

There are a few people here who had the opposite experiences with their LB wheels. If you want to take less chances just buy the rims from them, the Hopes from some UK site, and have them laced here in the USA with generic boring round double butted spokes. If you a gambling man roll the dice and order from them.


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## holdendaniels (Jul 25, 2005)

I just ordered the LB 38mm rims. Going to have them laced up with the DT Swiss 240s straight pull center lock 28H. I was wonder how people are sealingthe rims for tubeless. Tape size? Stem size? Using Stan's kit? Which one?


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

holdendaniels said:


> I was wonder how people are sealingthe rims for tubeless. Tape size? Stem size? Using Stan's kit? Which one?


I have the same question, and my wheels arrived today so I want to get them on the bike to replace the broken rear hub I'm using. What's the best tape to use? All my past tubeless wheels came with rim strips or were UST.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

I taped mine up yesterday. I used a strip of Stan's wide tape right up the middle of the rim. One pass. Because of the rim shape it really didn't stick well. Hard to describe. But I think when I get the front wheel built up I am going to make the change to Gorilla tape. I have never used anything but Stan's but it may be time. BTW my rear wheel built up to 792 grams. It widens out my 2.25 ardent to almost 2.6. I went on a ride tonight and the traction was noticeable. Awesome.


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## heyhey (Oct 27, 2011)

Just got done building my wheelset. Took about 3 weeks from placing order to arrive to California. I ordered 259 and 257mm spokes, however they forgot to ship the extra (2) 257mm spokes I paid for :/

-38mm 650b LB wheels
-Pillar 1420 spokes from LB
-Sapim 14mm purple nipples
-American Classic 15mm/142 hubset
Total weight:1526.
With tape and stems:1547

Was mad today because it was around 70 degrees while I was finishing building the rest of the bike, so no ride. I rode around the block and so far and they feel awesome. However, I would say that regardless as these are on a new bike build. Saw a post above that mentioned tape. I tried stans 25mm wide tape and the profile of the rim just wont allow it. So I cut the 25mm tape in half, so far they're holding air. Tires were a PITA to mount. First time using homebrew sealant too. I do need longer valve stems as the standard stans is cutting it close. Camera phone pics don't do them justice.


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## Jboy71 (Aug 6, 2010)

Are the 40mm Stans valve stems long enough for these rims?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

heyhey said:


> Just got done building my wheelset. Took about 3 weeks from placing order to arrive to California. I ordered 259 and 257mm spokes, however they forgot to ship the extra (2) 257mm spokes I paid for :/
> 
> -38mm 650b LB wheels
> -Pillar 1420 spokes from LB


You've inspired me to take a similar strategy for my build. Going to get rims and spokes from LB and source hubs and build myself.

My main concern is that I've changed my order with LB so many times that I worry what will actually show up! ;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Jboy71 said:


> Are the 40mm Stans valve stems long enough for these rims?


Barely....no guarantees.
I tried some Mavic valve stems, they were definitely too short.

Bought some 48mm alloy valve stems off ebay from truckerco-usa, length is perfect, they seal great, come in colors and have removable valve cores.



fefillo said:


> My main concern is that I've changed my order with LB so many times that I worry what will actually show up! ;-)


I changed my order at least six times, and mine came exactly as I wanted them.


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## heyhey (Oct 27, 2011)

fefillo said:


> You've inspired me to take a similar strategy for my build. Going to get rims and spokes from LB and source hubs and build myself.
> 
> My main concern is that I've changed my order with LB so many times that I worry what will actually show up! ;-)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I had the same concern as you. I initially ordered spokes for hope pro II evos that I have around. However, I asked Nancy to send the length of spokes they use to build the same combo and they were not what I calculated. These numbers were for 3x and based on NSD of 535. Then I changed the length to fit the AC hubs, luckily I double checked as got it wrong on the invoice and I would have ended up with lengths to build hopes. First time ordering from LB, just be on top of them and not afraid to confirm your order with multiple people (Nancy and Caroline). Overall for the price I'm stoked! If this post doesn't make sense I've been in lecture since 8am.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

heyhey said:


> Yeah I had the same concern as you. I initially ordered spokes for hope pro II evos that I have around. However, I asked Nancy to send the length of spokes they use to build the same combo and they were not what I calculated. These numbers were for 3x and based on NSD of 535. Then I changed the length to fit the AC hubs, luckily I double checked as got it wrong on the invoice and I would have ended up with lengths to build hopes. First time ordering from LB, just be on top of them and not afraid to confirm your order with multiple people (Nancy and Caroline). Overall for the price I'm stoked! If this post doesn't make sense I've been in lecture since 8am.


Makes perfect sense. Matches my personal experience pretty good.

When I was planning to order the complete wheelset from LB, Caroline said they use 3 different lengths of spokes for their build, but when I did my own calcs, I came with 2 (276 and 278), and I think it is because they are doing 2x on one side and 3x on the other, but I'm planning to do 3x all around.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

I got my wheelset all built up. The weight for the wheelset is 1471 (Without rim strips or valves) I am horrible at reading rulers. But my 2.25 ardent is now a line short of being a 2.5 and my 2.35 Hans Dampf is almost a 2.6 Going on a ride today. 

The LB wheelset it is replacing weighed 1460 grams but was a wide hooked. 30OD 24ID


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## heyhey (Oct 27, 2011)

Spunkmtb-great weight. What spokes/hubs are you using?


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

With great trepidation I am using 28 hole hubs. I have always used American Classic 32 hole hubs but got a great deal on a used set of the DT swiss hubs. The set-up isT Swiss 28H straight pull hubs, Sapim CX-ray spokes, DT Swiss alloy nipples.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

Has anyone received the 29er rims yet & measured the ERD?


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## Brons (Feb 5, 2015)

I've just bought a pair of the 650B 38mm rims to go with some DT Swiss 240s Hubs I've already got.

I don't suppose anyone has done the same and knows what spoke length I'd need? Thanks if anyone can help! I was planning to use Sapim CX-Ray spokes with brass nipples.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Guys

I'm considering the set of 29 LB rims (for AM bike) to pair them with DT 350s hubs but would like them to be used with STraight Pull spokes (Pillar PSR TB2016 or DT Comp) - are they compatibile with SP spokes?


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Don't see wh they wouldn't work with SP spokes.

How does exeyone seem to have good luck with ship times but these guys from me? Had three things shipped from them (including one warranty replacement rim) and each has taken about 5 weeks. I'm past three weeks now and my rims haven't shipped yet. Oh well, if the quality is good on these I suppose they'll be worth the wait.

Also, I may have missed this but what width rim tape are you gys using for these? Thin strip down the midle a-la derby?


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

spunkmtb said:


> 650B. Also my post had a typo I meant to type 426 & 432. Also I requested them to be closer to 430 grams than 440





Brons said:


> I've just bought a pair of the 650B 38mm rims to go with some DT Swiss 240s Hubs I've already got.
> 
> I don't suppose anyone has done the same and knows what spoke length I'd need? Thanks if anyone can help! I was planning to use Sapim CX-Ray spokes with brass nipples.


If your hubs are straight pull it is 270/271


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## chumanji9 (Mar 7, 2013)

Posted my question on pivot forum, but didn't get any replies.

Would this wheel running 2.3 maxxis HR tires have any clearance issue with the lower chainstay on Pivot Mach 6?


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

Similar to the OP, I was contemplating between the Nextie and LB 35mm hookless, and I settled on Nextie simply because I haven't heard anything bad about warranty claims (I figured the products were similar in quality). I could be just naive though - I just haven't seen the stories for Nextie that I have for LB.

This new LB 38mm design is nice though. Should I go for the new seemingly stouter LB design and risk warranty issues or just go with Nextie and continue to be blissfully ignorant?


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

Just finish building a set of these, "DH" flavor. One was beefed up to 508g and the other was 476g (respectively rear and front), and it went together like BUTTA! 

Front was laced to ~127kgf and the rear was laced to ~117kgf.

Front was to Hadley 32h, 3X, 20mm x 110mm w/ DT Champ on disc side and Comp on drive side, brass and the weight was 926g. Rear was to Hadley 32h, 3X, 108 POE 150mm x 12mm, and weighs in at 1079g.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

jiker-having gone through the same process my rationale was that if you have to use rim warranty - you already lost: factoring shipping costs, time to ship from china and rebuild costs you are out quite a bit of cash. Hence I oped for the seemingly beefier, thicker sidewall 38mm design. Have not used the wheels in anger yet so jury is still out


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Ordered my 38mm's around a week ago. May or may not ship until after Feb 28th when LB returns from Chinese New Year vacation. ;-(


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

It's true that it's expensive to go through the warranty process. I guess what I was asking is: LB has some notoriety for #1 rims failing, and #2 giving only $15 off a new rim when it breaks. This new design might be an improvement in durability, but if it breaks you are still out a good chunk of change. Nextie, on the other hand, doesn't seem to have this stigma (i've searched, but never found numerous numbers of failures and warranty issues. I could be totally wrong though, and they could just be less popular). Nextie looks to have the better warranty too. But the bead wall is not as thick, so it's not as sturdy a design.

At the end of the day, I of course want to buy rims that don't break, but I'm not willing to shell out crazy money for them. Thats why I'm looking at LB and Nextie, but I don't know which company/product would be better.


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## jgusta (Oct 9, 2004)

jiker said:


> It's true that it's expensive to go through the warranty process. I guess what I was asking is: LB has some notoriety for #1 rims failing, and #2 giving only $15 off a new rim when it breaks. This new design might be an improvement in durability, but if it breaks you are still out a good chunk of change. Nextie, on the other hand, doesn't seem to have this stigma (i've searched, but never found numerous numbers of failures and warranty issues. I could be totally wrong though, and they could just be less popular). Nextie looks to have the better warranty too. But the bead wall is not as thick, so it's not as sturdy a design.
> 
> At the end of the day, I of course want to buy rims that don't break, but I'm not willing to shell out crazy money for them. Thats why I'm looking at LB and Nextie, but I don't know which company/product would be better.


Sounds like the LB 38's may be stronger than the 35's and definitely stronger than their former 30mm hooked design, but I wouldn't count on them if a warranty issue ever were to occur. Brian at Nextie was always quite responsive and speaks good English, unlike LB folk. Based on this and better warranty, he would get my cash if ever going Chinese directs rim a go again. A friend recently got a Nextie 40 that sounds good. He has a Derby 40 on another bike and sounds like he is pleased with the Nextie so far. If you can afford, I would definitely consider a NOX Farlow. Mine has been totally solid over past 8 months of hard riding.


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## mtnfiend (Feb 26, 2004)

Thanks for all the great info in here. I'm thinking of rebuilding my current wheelset with a set of these LB 29x38s. Current wheels Stan Arch, King 142x12 XD, Hope 15, DT Revolution, alloy nipples. Wheels will go on new RIP9 RDO. I'm 175-180# with gear. Used on SoCal (primarily San Gab) singletrack with lots of climbing involved. Thinking of specifying a lighter build on the rim.

Questions:
1) Anything special an experienced wheel builder (at my LBS) should be concerned about building these wheels?
2) After reading through this thread I'm guessing it will be easier to have LB identify and supply the correct spokes length?


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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

Curious what you guys paid for these wheels? Just had a chat with support and was told it would be $900+ with DT240's and $833 with Hopes including shipping. $1200AUD seems kind of high...


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

til027 said:


> Curious what you guys paid for these wheels? Just had a chat with support and was told it would be $900+ with DT240's and $833 with Hopes including shipping. $1200AUD seems kind of high...


That seems to be consistent with the website and the quotes I received.

Here's mine for a full wheelset build + extra spokes/nipples with Hope Hubs.









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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

Wow, not as great as I thought. Thanks for the reply


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

I've posted this before but another build to consider is the one I went with:
Light Bicycle Carbon rims 38mm 32h UD AM layup	$424.35
Build/spokes/nipples/tape/valve stems - Dave Thomas	$215
Hubs - MTB180/MTB270	$169.90

You lose the name brand hubs but you get a very highly rated/high engagement hub that doesn't really have any downsides vs Hopes and you get a hand built, customized wheelset for the $809 price point


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## higiff (Jul 23, 2006)

I received my Rims recently and am planning on building them soon with I9 hubs once they arrive.
Has anyone got an accurate ERD?
From my understanding their stated ERD is eyelet to eyelet so not including rim thickness?
which would make an ERD of ~545? 535 ERD + 5mm rim thickness?


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## Guest (Feb 18, 2015)

...


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## mtnfiend (Feb 26, 2004)

Thanks for all the great info in here. I'm thinking of rebuilding my current wheelset with a set of these LB 29x38s. Current wheels Stan Arch, King 142x12 XD, Hope 15, DT Revolution, alloy nipples. Wheels will go on new RIP9 RDO. I'm 175-180# with gear. Used on SoCal (primarily San Gab) singletrack with lots of climbing involved. Thinking of specifying a lighter build on the rim.

Questions:
1) Anything special an experienced wheel builder (at my LBS) should be concerned about building these wheels?
2) After reading through this thread I'm guessing it will be easier to have LB identify and supply the correct length spokes?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I've been using lb 35mm 650b version for about 1 month now. It's rock solid. I haven't rock it maybe because I don't lower my psi lower than 25.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

You can do better than $980 for almost same build - hopes can be had for around $300 off ebay, the LB 38mm rims for $410 shipped also on ebay LB listing (no paypal fees), and Sapim double butted spoke + brass nipples for $0.50 ($0.69 for alloy) of https://www.danscomp.com/search.php?by=BASEPRICE&fsearch=spoke which charges only $15 to build a wheel if you buy some parts there (spokes, otherwise free) and $20 to ship back. So around $820...a bit better.

That said, not sure it's worth doing that versus getting Ibis 41mm wheels which are/were on sale for $999 on Jenson (from 1299) + 10% off using active junky website. Then you have a real warrantee behind those wheels unlike LB which I read gives you $15 off if you crack a rim!, and likely much better durability to boot with. Unknown hubs at that price, but hubs with good engagement are a commodity IMO.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

My $0.02 on the warranty - I cracked an LB rim, and IIRC, the replacement was $25 + S/H. I asked for the replacement to be the then-new 33mm rim, they said sure. I paid the difference, got some Pillar spokes for the new ERD and had two new rims in 2 weeks. They were a breeze to work with.


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

If you have the rims in hand, why not measure the ERD yourself to see what it is?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

pinkrobe said:


> My $0.02 on the warranty - I cracked an LB rim, and IIRC, the replacement was $25 + S/H.


that's good to hear because I also read someone else saying it was only $15 discount + ship, which doesn't sound like any warrantee as well. Were you still within the 1y, or was it a crash replacement ?


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

davec113 said:


> I was also looking at the 35s but am leaning toward the new 38s, I will probably put in an order today.
> 
> Looks like they are too new to get any reviews but the 35 hookless seem to be doing pretty well...


My 38s came in the mail today, will be lacing them up with CXRay spokes and blue ano nipples to my old DT440 rear and Hope Pro II front hubs shortly!

Weights were 420 and 416 grams.

I ordered 3k glossy finish and it came out looking great.

So far so good!


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

davec113 said:


> My 38s came in the mail today...


When did you place your order?

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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

fefillo said:


> When did you place your order?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Around Jan 21st.

----

The rims design and manufacture looks to be fairly mature at this point, I'm seriously considering another pair to lace to the hubs my bike came with, they're Bonty 28 hole straight pull hubs, probably made by DT... My rear rim is trashed and ready to be replaced. After I dented it and broke a couple spokes in a race it keeps breaking spokes, the rim is bent too much I think. I will ride them a bit and see if I like them before I order a 2nd pair of course.

Will post pics of the wheels when I am finished building, them.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

These things too stout for a daily driver? 

I have one wheel set already - I9 Torch Trail - that I'm thinking for throwing some lighter rubber on for longer days/more vert, and putting the Minons I'm currently running on the 38mm set for <20mi rides. They'd pull park duty, too, but mostly just be my primary set. Overkill?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Henrik83 said:


> I got my rims yesterday. Measured like this, https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/2...d1357866877-cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-erd.gif they are 540,5mm. Measured like this https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/w...79308-light-bicycle-carbon-rims-width-erd.jpg they are 535mm just like LB say they should be. When DT's spoke calculator says, "The rim diameter is measured at the nipple seat and corresponds to the rim diameter of the DT Swiss spoke length calculation table." they are referring to measuring according to the second picture, right? If so the spokes for 240s Straighpull should be 270mm.


Henrik, thanks for your post! 
I did my calcs and ordered spokes based on the published LB ERD (574mm for the 38mm rims) and forgot to include the 2mm x 2 (578mm ERD) for the nipple heads!
Good thing my order has not shipped yet, so I'm hoping to I can still get spokes 2mm longer.

For anyone planning to lace up LB 38's to Hope Pro 2's, here's my calcs for reference. Calc results in white/red, my final decision in green (280's all over). Will update once the wheels are built if something does not work out.


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

What rim tape and presta valve would you guys recommend for the 38mm rims?


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

I used a 18mm Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 . It adheres well and closes up the spoke holes nicely but the edge does partially sit on the beadlock so it wouldn't surprise me if changing out tires would pull up the sides of the tape. The upshot is that it's so cheap that I don't mind re-taping it once in a while


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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

Curious for those who have tried both, how would you compare the LB rims to Ibis 41mm range?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

tatankainlondon said:


> What rim tape and presta valve would you guys recommend for the 38mm rims?


so I've seen rims that are similar and my 25mm tape I used on my Flow/FlowEX rim isn't a good fit (partially over the flat section. They recommend 18mm tape. The Stans valves work fine but barely...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

tatankainlondon said:


> What rim tape and presta valve would you guys recommend for the 38mm rims?


That is a good question, the "bead lock" ridges are really in the way, but I'm going to try 1" wide Gorilla tape, it's wide enough to clear the ridges and it's cheap so replacing isn't a big deal.

I got the 48mm blue ano alum Speed Evolution stems from truckerco on ebay for around $20. And blue ano nipples with CX-Ray spokes


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

tatankainlondon said:


> What rim tape and presta valve would you guys recommend for the 38mm rims?


I went to Home Despot and bought Tyvek House Wrap Tape, cut it down to size with a box knife, and did two layers on each wheel. Saw this recommendation on some thread here on MTBR. It was faster than ordering tubelss tape, so I went for it. Sounds like pretty much any tape will work. You don't need the tape on these to go all the way to the edges of the rim.

I'm about 8 rides in, with a couple nasty, rocky, corner-y DH trails, and they're holding air nicely. No burps at 25 psi on the front running 27.5 Minion 3C EXOs. I used to have to keep tubless at 28+ psi for runs with hard cornering when I had 21mm (internal) rims.

Valves I used from Easton and Bontrager (one of each) UST rims worked fine. They couldn't be any shorter, but normal valves like this should work as long as they're threaded the entire way.


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

juice said:


> I went to Home Despot and bought Tyvek House Wrap Tape, cut it down to size with a box knife, and did two layers on each wheel. Saw this recommendation on some thread here on MTBR. It was faster than ordering tubelss tape, so I went for it. Sounds like pretty much any tape will work. You don't need the tape on these to go all the way to the edges of the rim.
> 
> I'm about 8 rides in, with a couple nasty, rocky, corner-y DH trails, and they're holding air nicely. No burps at 25 psi on the front running 27.5 Minion 3C EXOs. I used to have to keep tubless at 28+ psi for runs with hard cornering when I had 21mm (internal) rims.
> 
> Valves I used from Easton and Bontrager (one of each) UST rims worked fine. They couldn't be any shorter, but normal valves like this should work as long as they're threaded the entire way.


I used 20mm wide Stans yellow tape, wide enough to cover the center channel only. Put a tube in the thing and left it at 40psi overnight. Used Conti goo and is holding air beautifully.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

What's the longest anyone's had to wait on shipping for these things? It took them about 3 weeks to ship out and they've been in transit for another three weeks. No updates on the EMS site.


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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

If it's taking that long they're probably being held and inspected by your customs (this can take a few weeks).

I'd perhaps get in contact with LB and let them know about the delay though.


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## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

davec113 said:


> My 38s came in the mail today, will be lacing them up with CXRay spokes and blue ano nipples to my old DT440 rear and Hope Pro II front hubs shortly!
> 
> Weights were 420 and 416 grams.
> 
> ...


Those weights are pretty low relative to the 440g +/-15g that list on their webpage. Did you order a lighter layup or is that just how they arrived? Do you have your wheels built up now? How are they riding?

Also can anyone else confirm the 535mm ERD that they list on their webpage? I'm going to pull the trigger on a pair of these soon and I'd like to order spokes as well, but I'm nervous about doing that without measuring the ERD myself.


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## BikeIntelligencer (Jun 5, 2009)

Any response to this?



adumesny said:


> that's good to hear because I also read someone else saying it was only $15 discount + ship, which doesn't sound like any warrantee as well. Were you still within the 1y, or was it a crash replacement ?


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Finally got my 29" rims last week. They were 452g and 455g on my scale. Quality seems better than the set I ordered a year ago. 

Excited to lace them up on Thursday once my spokes arrive.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Mine showed up yesterday too. 38mm 29", 3k matte.
Weights came in at 452g and 462g. Lacing up to Hope Pro 2's with Pillar 1420 bladed spokes and Pillar 734 alloy nipples. Did anti-seize on the spoke threads and grease on the nipple.

Front wheel built up to 800g, expecting ~900g for the rear (no tape or valves included in weight).


























ERD, measured from nipple head slot to nipple head slot as shown below came in at 578mm.


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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

Nice build fefillo! I built the same rims on Hope hubs, but used DT brass nipples (12 mm) instead and DT competition spokes. I measured ERD nipple slot to nipple slot to 576 mm. So I guess ERD can differ depending on which nipples are used...


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

adumesny said:


> The Stans valves work fine but barely...


A Schrader adapter works as an extension and your pump head can clamp on.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

R-P said:


> Nice build fefillo! I built the same rims on Hope hubs, but used DT brass nipples instead and DT competition spokes. I measured ERD nipple slot to nipple slot to 576 mm. So I guess ERD can differ depending on which nipples are used...


Very nice. I went back and forth with the decals (red too), but never got a clear answer from LB wether they were removable or not. I wanted the option to peel them off later if I got tired of them, but they made it sound like they were under the clear coat? Are yours like that?

I have a few other thoughts/comments around the pillar nipples and spokes combo and ERD that I'll post later after I have done the second wheel.

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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

Yes, it seems the stickers are under clear coat.


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

Here are mine. LB 38mm DH laced 3x with old school DT Swiss Ti gold ano spokes and Ti nipples to Chris King ISO 20/single speed hubs, 12t cog. Going on a Specialized P.3 frame for DJ/pumptrack riding.






























These have been the easiest wheels for me to lace yet. I am not a pro, but I have built up many wheelsets before. The stiffness of these rims makes truing them up very easy. It was interesting to mostly just use the spoke tensiometer to even the spokes out because the rims stayed mostly true throughout the process. I tensioned them up to 130kgf. I broke 2 spokes going beyond that, so I stopped the tensioning there. It was definitely reassuring that the rim had no problems but the spokes would snap.

My only issue is that the tires I have (DMR Supermoto) did not want to seat into the tire bed. They wanted to seat in the center groove. I put the tires on, the tube in, inflated, and then tires sat in the center groove. In the process of putting them on the rims, I broke my Alien multitool tire lever, with not a scratch to the rim. I still haven't figured out how to get them to seat properly. If anyone has any ideas, let me know.

So no trail time yet, but two tests of durability passed (Spokes broken during tensioning, and tire lever broke while putting the tires on).

Once I get these all worked out, these are going to look super hotrot. Flat black rims, gold spokes, chrome hubs. Looks like I need to paint my frame to make it more hotrod.


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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

Nice build too. My tires (Schwalbe MM and HD) seated with a loud pop. The tire must slide past the groove and over the bead lock ridge. Might be tight with some tires. I applied soap and water with a sponge before inflating. It improves the sliding of tire versus the rim. Maybe you can try that and see if it helps?


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

I'll try the soap. My eventual goal is tubeless, but I want some rides on them first and then to see if they need retruing before I cover the spoke nipples from the inside. With that amount of tension, I want to use the star nut on the inside of the rim to tension them instead of the square shaft on the nipple to tension. Makes it much easier, and decreases the chance of damage to the nipple.


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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

I only dared to go to 110kg spoke tension on my set, but I might tighten it up later. Tubeless was really easy on this set. I just used a floor pump. It seems the tire sits really airtight in the groove and build up a good deal of pressure before popping out to seat to the flange.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

IdahoLee said:


> These have been the easiest wheels for me to lace yet. I am not a pro, but I have built up many wheelsets before. The stiffness of these rims makes truing them up very easy. It was interesting to mostly just use the spoke tensiometer to even the spokes out because the rims stayed mostly true throughout the process. I tensioned them up to 130kgf. I broke 2 spokes going beyond that, so I stopped the tensioning there. It was definitely reassuring that the rim had no problems but the spokes would snap.
> 
> So no trail time yet, but two tests of durability passed (Spokes broken during tensioning, and tire lever broke while putting the tires on).


I would be concerned if I was breaking spokes while tensioning up the wheels.


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## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

What's the general thought on spokes for building these. Sticking with Sapim and before now would have stuck with Race, but wondering if I could get away with CX ray given the stiffness of the rim. I'm not overly heavy (80kg), its for 29er rims on an Evil Following. Any real benefit of the CX Ray over the Race other than weight?


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

The LB website quotes 180kgf as max. Ti spokes need really high tensions to keep them from breaking in the long run. I went up to 130kgf, popped one, though it may be a fluke, then popped another. Backed off a bit and stopped tensioning.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

IdahoLee said:


> I tensioned them up to 130kgf. I broke 2 spokes going beyond that, so I stopped the tensioning there. It was definitely reassuring that the rim had no problems but the spokes would snap.


How / where did the spokes fails? Which spokes? 130kgf does not seem like a super high tension load.

I may be wrong, but I think I've read somewhere that normally spokes are not your limiting factor when it comes to max tension for a wheelbuild.

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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

Usually it is the nipple bed that fails. The spoke failed at the top thread at the nipple. I was tensioning evenly and slowly, so it wasn't even due to excessive and uneven tension. There was a significant amount of creaking and pinging as I tensioned them up, even though I used zinc antiseize on the threads. Then suddenly, pop. I inspected all the spokes, nipples and nipple beds on the rim. Nothing else damaged. I felt pretty happy that the rim held up. I backed off a quarter turn on each nipple and went on to the next wheel. The exact same thing happened on the other wheel. I did just get the Park tensiometer for this build, having never used one before. I really wanted these tensioned well, and was worried about overtensioning the carbon rims. I can only assume that the tensiometer was calibrated correctly, but the spokes seem pretty tight. Even if the tensiometer is not calibrated well, I am just below max spoke tension and not at max rim tension, just where I wanted.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Just posted this stand alone post on my experience with LBs Pillar spokes and nipples in case anyone here is planning on using them.
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires...34-nipples-lb-wheels-958365.html#post11837050


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Tenacious Doug said:


> What's the general thought on spokes for building these. Sticking with Sapim and before now would have stuck with Race, but wondering if I could get away with CX ray given the stiffness of the rim. I'm not overly heavy (80kg), its for 29er rims on an Evil Following. Any real benefit of the CX Ray over the Race other than weight?


Besides the weight, bladed spokes are easier to keep spoke winding/twist in check. Consensus seems to be that there is little to no aero benefit in MTB typical applications.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Tenacious Doug said:


> What's the general thought on spokes for building these. Sticking with Sapim and before now would have stuck with Race, but wondering if I could get away with CX ray given the stiffness of the rim. I'm not overly heavy (80kg), its for 29er rims on an Evil Following. Any real benefit of the CX Ray over the Race other than weight?


You can get that weight savings with Lasers. With these rims being so stiff I've had no problems with Lasers in a 35/30 build at 120kgf drive side.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Maybe someone can find these helpful. Here's a few pics of my build for future reference.








This is how Stan's 24mm tape sits on the profile. Edge is right in the bump. Worried a little bit that it will start pulling/peeling when I have to pull tires back into center channel to take off for whatever reason.








This are American Classic 46mm valves. Just enough body left over for pump valve. Other valves have less hardware (just the nut usually) so you may have similar/more room with a slightly shorter valve.

Final weights for 38mm rims, Pillar 1420 bladed spokes, Pillar 734 14mm alloy nipples, Hope Pro 2 hubs, tape and valves:








Front: 818g








Back: 948g


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Fefillo
Are those AM or DH versions?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

fefillo said:


> ...This is how Stan's 24mm tape sits on the profile. Edge is right in the bump. Worried a little bit that it will start pulling/peeling when I have to pull tires back into center channel to take off for whatever reason.


I think this is why Derby web site says to use "18mm or ¾ inch wide sealing tape, only in the center channel." Technical
as the rims are similar width at 40mm (similar to Ibis 41mm as well). I ended up cutting my 24mm stans tape down by hand as I have a bunch left, but a smaller one would have been easier


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

as I've posted before in this thread - 18mm Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 works great


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Placek said:


> Fefillo
> Are those AM or DH versions?


I asked for AM. Just the rims, they came in at 452g and 462g. Which I guess is in line with their claimed 450g +/-15g, but you could always ask them to try to send you ones from the lighter side.

From the various email communications I had with them, it seemed like these were actually been built specifically to fill my order, so there may or may not be an inventory to pick from.

*baltik* and *adumesny*, I thought about going thin or cutting up the Stan's but it was just a matter of using what I had already on hand and being too lazy to modify it.

How did you cut it? Did you tape it on flat surface and cut with knife/ruler?

Also, were did you buy the Scotch tape? I could only find $300 boxes of the 18mm size on Amazon.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

baltik said:


> I used a 18mm Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 . It adheres well and closes up the spoke holes nicely but the edge does partially sit on the beadlock so it wouldn't surprise me if changing out tires would pull up the sides of the tape. The upshot is that it's so cheap that I don't mind re-taping it once in a while


good info. I was about to order some Scotch 18mm tape ($7.50 on ebay for 2 rolls of 55m!) as that is the width Derby recommends on his 40mm rims, and I figure it's easier than cutting my stans 24mm down. But still too wide for LB 38mm.... bummer.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

fefillo said:


> *baltik* and *adumesny*, I thought about going thin or cutting up the Stan's but it was just a matter of using what I had already on hand and being too lazy to modify it.
> 
> How did you cut it? Did you tape it on flat surface and cut with knife/ruler?
> 
> Also, were did you buy the Scotch tape? I could only find $300 boxes of the 18mm size on Amazon.


I ended up cutting my Stans 24mm tape with a scissor while laying it down (so rough side cut) as I didn't know if I wanted to cut the roll with a utility knife up front (which I will for the next 2-3 rims I may build). Tape can be found here otherwise eBay (55m x 2 rolls will last a couple lifetimes... have not bought it yet - hopefully there will be some left if I end up needing it.


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

I requested lighter rims. They came in at 423 & 428 grams


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

spunkmtb said:


> I requested lighter rims. They came in at 423 & 428 grams


Damn! I think those may be too weak/light. Want to trade for some more reliable ones? ;-)

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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

adumesny said:


> good info. I was about to order some Scotch 18mm tape ($7.50 on ebay for 2 rolls of 55m!) as that is the width Derby recommends on his 40mm rims, and I figure it's easier than cutting my stans 24mm down. But still too wide for LB 38mm.... bummer.


Problem is I wouldn't really go any narrower than 18mm - I only have 2mm a side when covering up the spoke holes so it's a pretty tight fit and don't want to risk a sealant/air leak. The only alternative is cutting something down to perfectly fit the 31.6mm internal width - My wheels essentially came that way from the builder (stans tape double wrapped to cover entire spoke bed) but given how short the sidewalls are I was hesitant to potentially reduce that by building up tape beneath the tire in fear of burping

Seems like there is a bit of a compromise inherent in taping these rims - I am ok re-taping once in a while given how cheap the two rolls are on eBAY


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

FINALLY got my 29er rims last week after long unexplained shipping delays. They told me they would drill the spoke holes at a 6 degree angle but it appears they forgot which is a bit frustrating. 

I laced mine to I9 torch classic hubs (scored an absolute killer deal on those) and sapim CX-ray spokes (not so much of a deal). With 32 spokes a wheel, no valves or tape my wheelset weighs 1655g. To me that's hugely impressive and almost a bit scary for 29er wheels of this type. 

Will post pics once I figure out how to dish/tension them.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

rusty904 said:


> Will post pics once I figure out how to dish/tension them.


Probably an old trick... But anyhow, here's what I did for dishing in lieu of buying or making a "real" tool. Worked out pretty good.





































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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

My wheels are finally done and ready to roll!

Was able to mount Fasttrack Control and GC Control by hand and seated pretty quick with pump (removed valve core). The brad popped and they were holding air right away.

A few learnings... The American Classic 46mm valves (I posted a picture earlier) don't leave much room for my pump head to grab onto. I ended up removing the plastic collar piece of the valve and just use the but and oring to make more room available.

Need to start chasing for the ideal/lowest pressure now, but at 20-psi, these tires feel a lot stronger (sidewall pinch/squeeze test) than they ever did on my previous narrow rims at 25-30 psi.



















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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Does the 535 ERD posted on the website match the real world ERD on these rims?


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## Guest (Mar 19, 2015)

...


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

Did you guys have to pay an import fee and if so, how much was it? I heard the charge around $70 for shipping, but I was just curious if you also had to pay an additional import tax on top of that?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Bermzilla, I did not have to pay an import fee into the U.S. 
Just shipping and some paypal fee. I read somewhere after I placed my order that there's a way to buy from LB through eBay and it waives/bypasses the paypal fee. It was like $25 in my case. Not sure on the details though. 


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Henrik

Congrats of new setup.
I see You went with 28 Straight Pull Spokes - is that correct - weren't You afraid of strength in rough terrain ?

@ And one more to all

Does it have a sense to get 38mm rims in AM version (less material) when around the same weight You can have 35mm DH (more material version) - would 3mm sacrifice (but more material) bring more confidence on trail ?



Henrik83 said:


> 1. Depends on how you measure.
> 2. The answer already been posted several times, in this particular thread.
> 3. Why does it matter? You still have to measure your own before ordering spokes.
> 4. Mine where 534,5, but see 1-3 again.
> ...


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Placek said:


> Henrik
> 
> Congrats of new setup.
> I see You went with 28 Straight Pull Spokes - is that correct - weren't You afraid of strength in rough terrain ?
> ...


More material (DH 35) may give you more "peace of mind" but that's hard to prove if they are stronger or not, specially with thiner hook wall than the 38s. Wider rims (AM or DH 38s) should be sturdier and stiffer because of width, regardless or weight chosen.

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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

My son's birthday is coming up and he want's some carbon rims for his 2008 SC Nomad. We were just talking about this last night. I (and several buddies) have three years of experience on LB rims (29") and they have been great.

My son wants wider rims and thinks he needs the 38mm wide rim but I think the 33mm would be better. He is 13 (14 soon) and light (110lbs). He races Enduro and likes to jump.

carbon mountain bike rim-mountain bike rim,mountain rims,mtb rim,mtb rims,carbon mtb rim Light-Bicycle

Thoughts? 

Thanks


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

DeeZee said:


> My son's birthday is coming up and he want's some carbon rims for his 2008 SC Nomad. We were just talking about this last night. I (and several buddies) have three years of experience on LB rims (29") and they have been great.
> 
> My son wants wider rims and thinks he needs the 38mm wide rim but I think the 33mm would be better. He is 13 (14 soon) and light (110lbs). He races Enduro and likes to jump.
> 
> ...


I'm with him. 27mm inside in not wide enough, especially two years from now.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

eb1888 said:


> I'm with him. 27mm inside in not wide enough, especially two years from now.


Thanks...........!!


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

DeeZee said:


> My son's birthday is coming up and he want's some carbon rims for his 2008 SC Nomad. We were just talking about this last night. I (and several buddies) have three years of experience on LB rims (29") and they have been great.
> 
> My son wants wider rims and thinks he needs the 38mm wide rim but I think the 33mm would be better. He is 13 (14 soon) and light (110lbs). He races Enduro and likes to jump.
> 
> ...


I'm with dad... I mean, he's 110-lbs! He should be able to realize most of the benefits of wide rims with something a bit smaller and lighter. What pressures does he run now? Is he looking to run 5-psi and 7-psi on the 38s?

Is he bending and breaking rims or spokes now? Does he have stock wheels?

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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

He isn't going to stay 110 forever and given his nomad is an 08 it seems like dad isn't buying him a new kit every year... these got to last a while, it's like kids clothes buy a size larger..


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

fefillo said:


> I'm with dad... I mean, he's 110-lbs! He should be able to realize most of the benefits of wide rims with something a bit smaller and lighter. What pressures does he run now? Is he looking to run 5-psi and 7-psi on the 38s?
> 
> Is he bending and breaking rims or spokes now? Does he have stock wheels?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





fefillo said:


> I'm with dad... I mean, he's 110-lbs! He should be able to realize most of the benefits of wide rims with something a bit smaller and lighter. What pressures does he run now? Is he looking to run 5-psi and 7-psi on the 38s?
> 
> Is he bending and breaking rims or spokes now? Does he have stock wheels?
> 
> ...


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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

A 13 year old doesn't need 38mm wheels, but then again neither do most of us. I'd get him what he wants since the price difference isn't huge.


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

Need to factor for ProCore at 100g ea. per wheel ! 
ProCore | Schwalbe North America

LB 35mm Wide Rim is lighter. I'd maybe still go with a 35-DH Rear Rim and a 35-AM front, I'm a big guy tho. "The rims are extremely well protected from denting." -ProCore. And the big plus is they allow you to run lower air pressures.

Can run Schwalbe 2.25 tires, Maxxis 2.3... save weight there too.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Wagon650B said:


> Need to factor for ProCore at 100g ea. per wheel !
> ProCore | Schwalbe North America
> 
> LB 35mm Wide Rim is lighter. I'd maybe still go with a 35-DH Rear Rim and a 35-AM front, I'm a big guy tho. "The rims are extremely well protected from denting." -ProCore. And the big plus is they allow you to run lower air pressures.
> ...


Looks like 200g per wheel.........


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

I stand corrected. I think it's still worth it. Even more reason to go lighter rim and tire.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Has anybody experience with Ribour wheels ? Ribour Wheels Factory Store - Small Orders Online Store, Hot Selling bicycle rim 700c,rim tyre,wheel bag and more on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
they claim to be the factory that actually produces many of the carbon rims (LB is supposedly not a factory but a res-seller according to a couple posts I've read)

I saw only 1 post by one of their employees on the Derby chat. Surprised to not see any. They do sell on aliexpress some complete wheels for about $100 less than LB (free ship, bit less kit) but only have 35mm hookless and some 40mm in 650b/29 size only (I need some 26").


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## til027 (Feb 14, 2015)

I doubt LB is a resell with their prices m8. I wouldn't be surprised if most of these wheels are made in the same factory though.

If you do get some Ribour rims I'd be interested to know how they turn out though.


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## smokey_z (May 18, 2006)

Fefillo-
A question for you on your LB 38mm wheels. I recall you made an adjustment to the spec'd ERD of 574 based on the height of the nipple head. The nipple head added 2mm to each side for a total ERD of 578. How did that number work out for you on your build? Were your spokes a little long, short, or just right?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

smokey_z said:


> Fefillo-
> A question for you on your LB 38mm wheels. I recall you made an adjustment to the spec'd ERD of 574 based on the height of the nipple head. The nipple head added 2mm to each side for a total ERD of 578. How did that number work out for you on your build? Were your spokes a little long, short, or just right?


Here's a few extra details on my calcs and measurements. Since I ordered spokes and nipples direct from LB, I did not have anything to measure, so I just added 4mm to the posted ERD (2mm per nipple x 2) and ordered away. That's were the original 578 came from.

I did measure one of the rims once everything arrived. I used Roger Musson's method as a go by. I got 578.8mm when measured to the nipple slots. You may get slightly different results with different nipples. I used Pillar nipples.




























The wheels built up fine and tensioned good too. Finally got to put them to test through rough test this weekend and they are still true.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

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## need4gforce (Sep 12, 2009)

What are thoughts on a 250lb rider with these? Thanks,


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## David Mackintosh (Mar 21, 2015)

Thanks for all of the info in this thread. I've ordered a pair of the 38mm 29er rims in 28h matte UD and asked for "under 450 grams," so I'll see what I get. I'm hoping they won't take too long as I'm eager to complete the build.

I also ordered black hubs, silver Sapim Race spokes, and orange ano nipples (to match my Carbine) from BHS. The hubs are a bit lighter and $200 cheaper than Hope Pro 2s and they shipped nearly instantaneously. My total parts cost should be right about $700.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Here's some info others may find useful. I ordered my LB 29er 38mm matte 12k 32h rims on March 15th and received them here in Colorado yesterday (April 1st). I measured the ERD to be 577mm using Measuring ERD (method 1). The weights are a slightly porky 469g and 471g. This is my 4th set of LB rims; quality looks great.


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## max.zorro (Mar 27, 2007)

Lucky you... I ordered the same 29er 38mm matte 12k 32h rims on March 16th and still waiting for manufacturing.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

max.zorro said:


> Lucky you... I ordered the same 29er 38mm matte 12k 32h rims on March 16th and still waiting for manufacturing.


That sucks. I ordered through eBay so I would not have to pay the PayPal fee...I wonder if that has something to do with it.


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

My 38mm DH rims on my new pump track slayer. 22.6lb total. Just need a 30mm BB spacer kit and the Stan's for tubeless.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

As my rims are on it's way can You help me guys with below questions:

What kind of tape and valves are You using ?
Can those rims be used with tubes - in case of leak or snake on trail ?


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

1. Gorilla 1" tape
2. Stan's
3. I tested them with tubes. They can be used with tubes.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Great
Thanks a lot !


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

IdahoLee said:


> 1. Gorilla 1" tape
> 2. Stan's
> 3. I tested them with tubes. They can be used with tubes.


make sure to get the extra long ones. I'm pretty sure I have the 35mm (Universal 35mm Mountain Valve Stem (Pair)) and they barely clear my deep rims - work with compressor (with presta adapter) and cartridge but can't hook a normal pump to them! They make a 44mm version Universal 44mm Tubeless Road Valve Stem (Pair) that should work a lot better.

you want removable core to make it easy to add fluid as it dries up, or on a trail repair, without taking the bead apart. Many don't have that.


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

What kind of lacing pattern do they use? 2x? 3x? Mixed?


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Very good point with lenght of valve?
I was not even aware that any cores might not be removable...

About fluid - i thought that when it starts to dry up i need just remove tire, clean all and apply a new fluid (like every 3 months) - isn't it ?



adumesny said:


> you want removable core to make it easy to add fluid as it dries up, or on a trail repair, without taking the bead apart. Many don't have that.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Placek said:


> I was not even aware that any cores might not be removable...
> About fluid - i thought that when it starts to dry up i need just remove tire, clean all and apply a new fluid (like every 3 months) - isn't it ?


Naaaah, way too much work. just pop the core, inject a small bottle (I buy the quart and fill small bottom which I take with me) and put core back and inflate. Don't want to clean (still wet) or break the seal. after a year+ you may get a rubber ball that tosses around that you want to remove, otherwise just add fluid when you have an air leak/puncture.
Of course with crappy Spec tires you'll change them more often before you get that, but with Conti black Chilly I have them last many years in some case...


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## awheeler (Feb 6, 2007)

Has anyone built these LB 38mm in 27.5 on the BHS MTB 270 hubs? Interested in spoke length. I would like to order spokes with the rims. Thanks


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

awheeler said:


> Has anyone built these LB 38mm in 27.5 on the BHS MTB 270 hubs? Interested in spoke length. I would like to order spokes with the rims. Thanks


What do your calculations say?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Wow. Sorry to be dense, but I just received my 38mm 650b LB rims. Super hyped. I've read through this entire thread and can't seem to find a definitive answer on the ERD. The published ERD is 535 for these rims. I'll be lacing them to DT Swiss 350 hubs (not straight-pull). 

I am using the DT Swiss Spoke calculator. Can someone tell me if the actual ERD is the published length PLUS the spoke head (another 4mm) like Fefilo did?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

alshead said:


> Wow. Sorry to be dense, but I just received my 38mm 650b LB rims. Super hyped. I've read through this entire thread and can't seem to find a definitive answer on the ERD. The published ERD is 535 for these rims. I'll be lacing them to DT Swiss 350 hubs (not straight-pull).
> 
> I am using the DT Swiss Spoke calculator. Can someone tell me if the actual ERD is the published length PLUS the spoke head (another 4mm) like Fefilo did?


you can easily measure yourself and figure that out (lots of video showing how) - the real question is does the site calculator uses the seat bed or the +4mm length that includes the nipple heads ?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks. I'll measure myself, but I'm still surprised nobody can just answer this question. 


There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

alshead said:


> Thanks. I'll measure myself, but I'm still surprised nobody can just answer this question.


Adding the 4mm worked fine for me, but since then I've actually learned a bit more about the whole wheelbuilding and measuring process and would not blindly recommend to just add this or that length to anything.

Please read the post below in its entirety (it's not that long) and then let us know if you are still surprised why nobody can answer your question. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=955388

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jlian (Mar 3, 2008)

alshead said:


> Thanks. I'll measure myself, but I'm still surprised nobody can just answer this question.


I measured my 38mm rims and got the same 535 ERD. I used both DT Swiss and Roger Musson WheelPro spoke calculators for a set of King hubs, and they come out OK. I should have rounded up for one side of rear wheel, but it was part of rookie leaning experience.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Mine measured 4mm longer than LBs posted ERD. I waited till they came in and measured.. Up to you. 

I ordered the 38mm 650b's UD gloss,
28h - 449g
32h - 451g 
DT 350s, Super comps and alloy nips.
I'll post an update with pics/weights in the near future.


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

My measured ERD was different than reported. When I used my measurements, the wheel came out great. I would measure myself if I were you, just to make sure that you account for variations between rims, as yours may actually be different than mine.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

I wrote a post only for it say "token is expired" and wipe out my entire post! What the **** MTBR!

Anyway... wheels were 1625g w/o tape and valves. 36 spoke wheels with CX Ray spokes, DT440 rear/Pro II front.

The bike tracks much better, has better traction and I can run much lower pressures. Cons are slight increase in harshness, small price to pay imo. I also got a new Float 36 for the bike, between going from a 34 to a 36 and the carbon wheels the bike is much stiffer and tracks much better, just what was needed. The frame is awesome, total weight around 28 lbs even, as pictured.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Measured my wheels (38mm 650's) and the internal was exactly as published (535) and to internal added another 2mm on either side (plus 4mm total)= 539. Used DT Swiss Spoke Calc (DT Swiss 350 j-bend hubs) and am hoping to lace them up tomorrow.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Update:
Got the front spokes in yesterday and finished up the build.

LB 38mm 650 28/32h 449/451g
DT 350 CL w/ XD driver
DT Super-comps
DT Alloy nips
WTB alloy valves
Stans tape

1612g with tape and valves










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## atamayo (Nov 28, 2007)

my rims arrived today and I'm looking for a bike shop that has done LB rims in San Jose or greater bay area. Any recommendations, much thanks...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

atamayo said:


> my rims arrived today and I'm looking for a bike shop that has done LB rims in San Jose or greater bay area. Any recommendations, much thanks...


I built my 1st wheel myself (fun project to learn) but given the time it took, I'm also looking at local bay area shop for the remaining wheels, but have decided to have those guys who sell the spokes cheapest to build them instead at $15/wheel when you send them your parts (else free) and cheap ship back. I have not used them yet (only ordered spokes and nipples). https://www.danscomp.com/search.php?by=BASEPRICE&fsearch=spoke. Might want to check them out. If I order LB 38mm rims I will have them ship directly there, and send my hope hubs once they receive them (since it can take a month).


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

Can anyone compare stiffness and durability of these Light Bicycle rims to Derby or Ibis?

I saw some comments on the 29er forum about LB rims being flexier than Ibis/Derby, but not sure if they are comparing to these beefier rims or some of their lighter weight more XC options.

Also wondering if a solid, pro build LB wheelset might fare better or equal to the more mass produced Ibis 741s with similar components.

Any feedback would be appreciated.


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

vokeswaagin said:


> Update:
> Got the front spokes in yesterday and finished up the build.
> 
> LB 38mm 650 28/32h 449/451g
> ...


HI, 
small [OT]; could you write small review about the slaughter tire on the specy Enduro...
I'd like to fill them on my Expert 26"-> 650B, so I like to read something about it.
Even more, could you measure the full diameter of the tire mounted on wheel?

Thanks for your time.

.. good ride with the ne wheels, just ordered a pair at Vivian ;-D


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

arthuar said:


> HI,
> small [OT]; could you write small review about the slaughter tire on the specy Enduro...
> I'd like to fill them on my Expert 26"-> 650B, so I like to read something about it.
> Even more, could you measure the full diameter of the tire mounted on wheel?
> ...


Is that Dh or am version?


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

rave81 said:


> Is that Dh or am version?


Enduro, am version.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

arthuar said:


> HI,
> small [OT]; could you write small review about the slaughter tire on the specy Enduro...
> I'd like to fill them on my Expert 26"-> 650B, so I like to read something about it.
> Even more, could you measure the full diameter of the tire mounted on wheel?
> ...


They don't make the Slaughter in a 26"


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

baltik said:


> They don't make the Slaughter in a 26"


Ahah ...read better my post. I mount 27.5 size indeed. 
This is the reason I was asking to measure the diameter.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

The slaughter measures almost exactly 28" or about 71cm

Edit: I don't feel I have enough time on the tire yet to have a fair review, but so far I've been really pleased with it. Fast and drifty until you lay it over.. As was expected!


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

vokeswaagin said:


> The slaughter measures almost exactly 28" or about 71cm
> 
> Edit: I don't feel I have enough time on the tire yet to have a fair review, but so far I've been really pleased with it. Fast and drifty until you lay it over.. As was expected!


Thanks for your precious help!


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Here's my 29er 38mm (left), 35mm (right), and 27mm back









Here's the 12k weave in the sun:


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

I finally managed to get my first wheel build done with some help. Here are my build specs.

38mm 29er rims, ud matte
I-9 Torch classic hubs (ebay steal!)
Sapim CX-Ray Spokes
Sapim Alloy Nipples

Thanks to some bargain hunting my complete build came in under $900.

I managed to guess right on the spoke lengths and the wheels built up really nice. Maxxis Ikons are freakin enormous on these things. 2.46" at the casing!


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## Rideon (Jan 13, 2004)

Those look awesome! Any ride time yet?


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Trying to decide between 35 or 38 LB. 

Also has anyone built 35's up with Dt 240s and determined proper spoke length and how they turned out?


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

funnyjr said:


> Trying to decide between 35 or 38 LB.
> 
> Also has anyone built 35's up with Dt 240s and determined proper spoke length and how they turned out?


Second here.
Same question but with the 38 mm.
Anyone tried to mount wheels on hope 2 pro Evo insteaf?


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## jlian (Mar 3, 2008)

arthuar said:


> Second here.
> Same question but with the 38 mm.
> Anyone tried to mount wheels on hope 2 pro Evo insteaf?


I built a set of LB 35mm 27.5 wheels on Hope 2 pro evo hubs last summer. It's my first wheel build. Just did a 2nd build with LB 38mm 29 rims on king hubs. Both work great.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

If I were to do it again I'd probably go with the 35s (as I did last year on my E29) but with 24/28h. Don't get me wrong.. The 38s are STIFF and I'm blown away with the apparent quality (especially when compared side by side with a roval rim) but they just seem like overkill.. The 38s really are massive! 


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

jlian said:


> I built a set of LB 35mm 27.5 wheels on Hope 2 pro evo hubs last summer. It's my first wheel build. Just did a 2nd build with LB 38mm 29 rims on king hubs. Both work great.


YES! Great.
Could fill the proper lenght spokes used for them? I am interested in the 27.5 especially, but for everyone's else here it is very useful both.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

funnyjr said:


> Trying to decide between 35 or 38 LB.
> 
> Also has anyone built 35's up with Dt 240s and determined proper spoke length and how they turned out?


I went with the 38's because the bead wall was a bit thicker. On carbon rims that tends to be the place where failure happens the most, at least in my experience. Figured the extra beefiness might help. Also the 38's have a much more considerable bead "hump" to keep the tires from burping. The deep dish, rounded design looks a lot cooler as well IMO.

I used I9 hubs but I used LB's ERD for my measurements and the spoke length turned out perfect.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I chose 38's for the same reason. Thicker rim wall.

Haven't laced them up yet- they're sitting in my garage taunting me...


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

rusty904 said:


> I went with the 38's because the bead wall was a bit thicker. On carbon rims that tends to be the place where failure happens the most, at least in my experience. Figured the extra beefiness might help. Also the 38's have a much more considerable bead "hump" to keep the tires from burping. The deep dish, rounded design looks a lot cooler as well IMO.
> 
> I used I9 hubs but I used LB's ERD for my measurements and the spoke length turned out perfect.


So no need to add the 2mm on each end of LB ERD to account for spoke heads?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^I think this depends on what spoke calculator you use. I used the DT Swiss calculator and added 4mm to overall ERD (confirmed by measuring, even though I haven't laced them up yet).


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

I'm 225lbs and ride aggressive, rocky, Arizona terrain. Will these wheels handle the abuse that a big guy riding in AZ can produce?


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

vokeswaagin said:


> If I were to do it again I'd probably go with the 35s (as I did last year on my E29) but with 24/28h. Don't get me wrong.. The 38s are STIFF and I'm blown away with the apparent quality (especially when compared side by side with a roval rim) but they just seem like overkill.. The 38s really are massive!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Well, I just on the desk to order the 38mm 650B.
Reading carefully your post I got doubts..really I need 32H?
Yes I will ride them aggressively and in enduro scenario but
With this massive 38mm rim, could it be safe building a 28H even?
Let me know, I am just changing the LB order..


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm a very aggressive rider, using the wheels for everything from aggressive xc/trail rides to enduro racing and DH/Park days.. I went 28/32h F/R.. Think I could have gotten away with 28/28 or even 24/28 honestly. 

The thicker bead & pronounced "bead bump" were also my reasons for going with the 38's though I never had any issues whatsoever with the 35s..


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Anyone with the 38mm 650b rims and Hope Pro 2's (15mm front and 142x12 rear) have spoke lengths? Yes, I'll double check when hubs come in, but figured I'd get honed in as I have some spokes already and would be nice if I didn't need to buy a whole new set...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

alshead said:


> Anyone with the 38mm 650b rims and Hope Pro 2's (15mm front and 142x12 rear) have spoke lengths? Yes, I'll double check when hubs come in, but figured I'd get honed in as I have some spokes already and would be nice if I didn't need to buy a whole new set...


258 and 260mm would be ideal for the front but I just used 260 for both sides and it's fine. I used 260 all 'round just to make replacements easy. DT440 rear/ProII front, so not sure about your rear ProII....


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

Nextie now has 38 mm asymmetric rims available, look pretty close to the LB 38's. 

Big differences:
3 mm vs. 3.2 mm bead wall
30 mm vs. 32 mm depth
3.5 mm spoke hole offset on the Nexties

So LB's have a thicker bead wall and deeper section, but Nexties have the offset spoke bed for better spoke tension & presumably a stiffer build.

Thoughts?


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

Is there a noticable difference between a LB 38mm wheel and a Derby/Ibis 41mm wheel? It's just 3mm right?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Bermzilla said:


> Is there a noticable difference between a LB 38mm wheel and a Derby/Ibis 41mm wheel? It's just 3mm right?


price, warrantee and possibly quality (different factory in China and QA). I tried a derby in front, but looking at LB or Nextie for cost reason and wanting not so wide on my AM bike.

Can't imagine 3mm width difference being that noticeable. Bead/wall tickness and height are likely are much more important. I think 40//41mm are actually too wide on many tires and might be too extreme right now.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Markiel said:


> Nextie now has 38 mm asymmetric rims available, look pretty close to the LB 38's.
> 
> Big differences:
> 3 mm vs. 3.2 mm bead wall
> ...


Nextie is interesting... similar price (slightly lower with no paypal and cheaper multiple rim ship) but the 38mm is only 650b at this point (no 26 or 29 like LB).
They do list 2 year warrantee (vs 1 for LB) - need to read more about their reliability - LB had many issues in the past but current crop seem to do better...


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

Will a 38mm wheel have less performance benefits than a 41mm wheel? I know theoretically it should but does anyone have any experience riding the two sizes?


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

Bermzilla said:


> Is there a noticable difference between a LB 38mm wheel and a Derby/Ibis 41mm wheel? It's just 3mm right?


The LB wheels are 31.6mm internal diameter vs Ibis 35mm internal diameter. You can run lower pressures with the ibis rims at the expense of tire selection


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

So I thought that I would give an update on my rims. I put them on my dirt jumper that I built up this spring. I got the LB 38mm DH rims, Chris King SS hubs, laced with DT Swiss Ti spokes, with Ti nipples, with DMR Supermoto tires. Still running tubes because I wanted to let the rims and spokes settle a little and detension if they were going to, then retension if needed before I covered up the nipples.

So far, I have done a bunch of pumptrack and jumping, some single track with rooty and rocky sections, and some biketrail sprinting stuff with my kids and neighbors.

No detensoning at all, so maybe I will set them up tubeless soon. My impression at this point is interesting and surprising. They are super stiff. My whole bike is stiff, with an aluminum hardtail frame, super stiff Manitou Circus fork, and these wheels. The most surprising thing to me is how light they are. They look big and burly, but they are much lighter than my last wheelset. This huge wight drop had an unexpected consequence on my dirt jumper. I am used to using the gyro effect of the wheel to keep me stable in the air, and using this gyro to correct for any slight imbalances I may have in the air. I ride like the mountain biker I am, and I use my bike to pull me around. These wheels have MUCH less gyro than my last wheelset. I can't depend on them to correct me at all in the air. They feel like a 20" BMX wheel, and I have had to get used to putting my bike where I want it, instead of using my bike wheels to pull me where I need to go. It is not an issue, and there are tons of guys who flick around super light BMX bikes with precision, so it is just taking a little getting used to. Going tubeless will make this even more pronounced, and given that I run high pressures for ramp and park riding, and that my dirt jumper is basically an 22lb extra large BMX, I am not sure I need to go tubeless. Maybe for racing this summer I will.

Anyway, I am happy with them. My acceleration is crazy, their stiffness seems to translate to instant power transfer, and I am getting used to being able to whip my bike around easier. I may be dense, but it was a huge surprise how different these wheels ride than my last. It has been a long time since I rode a superlight wheelset, and unlike these, the last one I rode was crazy flexy.


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## tedsti (Oct 22, 2004)

Has anybody ordered the Pillar spokes and nipples from LB? I am considering it but need to know if I need to account for 14mm nipples vs 12mm. I know that for DT nipples, you run shorter spokes for the longer nipples, but for other brands the spoke length is the same for all nipples. I can't find any info on the Pillar nipples.


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

*Did I just make an expensive mistake?*

So my LB wheels came in today. I ordered them built up with the Hipe Hubs. I mounted 2.35 Schwalbe Nobby Nics on the front ant rear. Here is the problem. The LB wheel weigh 10 grams less then my DT Swiss wheels. Also the tire measures at exactly 2.34 when mounted. So I didn't save weight and I didn't get the wide square tire profile I was expecting. So what did I pay $900 for? Maybe my expectations were too high, but right now I'm not seeing an advantage over what I had. Maybe they are a bit more stiff. Am I missing something here? I'm of he mind to just sell the wheel set and cut my losses.

Any thoughts?


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## Adim_X (Mar 3, 2010)

Bermzilla said:


> So my LB wheels came in today. I ordered them built up with the Hipe Hubs. I mounted 2.35 Schwalbe Nobby Nics on the front ant rear. Here is the problem. The LB wheel weigh 10 grams less then my DT Swiss wheels. Also the tire measures at exactly 2.34 when mounted. So I didn't save weight and I didn't get the wide square tire profile I was expecting. So what did I pay $900 for? Maybe my expectations were too high, but right now I'm not seeing an advantage over what I had. Maybe they are a bit more stiff. Am I missing something here? I'm of he mind to just sell the wheel set and cut my losses.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Did you do any calculations for wheel weight before ordering? I think you are over reacting. I guarantee those carbon wheels will ride stiffer then your current ones. Sounds to me like you should of done a bit more research. Also the wider the wheel..the heavier the weight. What do those tires measure at on your dt wheels?


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

Adim_X said:


> Did you do any calculations for wheel weight before ordering? I think you are over reacting. I guarantee those carbon wheels will ride stiffer then your current ones. Sounds to me like you should of done a bit more research. Also the wider the wheel..the heavier the weight. What do those tires measure at on your dt wheels?


It's weird, from the side profile the wheels look taller, but they are not any wider than when mounted to my DT Swiss wheels.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

What DT swiss wheels were you running before, did you measure the exact same tire on the old wheel? remember manufacturer specs are often not accurate, vary tire to tire and tires do stretch over time?


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Markiel said:


> Nextie now has 38 mm asymmetric rims available, look pretty close to the LB 38's.
> 
> Big differences:
> 3 mm vs. 3.2 mm bead wall
> ...


Dammit. Of course they do. A couple days after I receive my new alloy rims. Oh well. They look nice.

[Wild Cat] [Asymmetric] Carbon Fiber 650B/27.5" MTB Rim 38mm width Clincher Hookless Tubeless Compatible [NXT650BWC]


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

baltik said:


> What DT swiss wheels were you running before, did you measure the exact same tire on the old wheel? remember manufacturer specs are often not accurate, vary tire to tire and tires do stretch over time?


I have a Mach 6 with DT Swiss M 1900 Spline wheels. After mounting the rear tire on the LB and measuring it, I threw the front tire on the DT Swiss wheels. There is a .01 difference in size.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Bermzilla said:


> It's weird, from the side profile the wheels look taller, but they are not any wider than when mounted to my DT Swiss wheels.


That would match what derby's website shows (40mm wide rim). Some tires don't grow and might actually shrink a tad - see WIDE rims near the middle... still think super wide can be hit or miss depending on tire.


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

adumesny said:


> That would match what derby's website shows (40mm wide rim). Some tires don't grow and might actually shrink a tad - see WIDE rims near the middle... still think super wide can be hit or miss depending on tire.


Maybe I chose the wrong tires. I wanted the Nobby Nics because they are light, but I'd rather have a beefier tire profile.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Bermzilla said:


> I have a Mach 6 with DT Swiss M 1900 Spline wheels. After mounting the rear tire on the LB and measuring it, I threw the front tire on the DT Swiss wheels. There is a .01 difference in size.


the DT swiss have a 19mm internal vs 31.6mm for the LB rims, so your sidewalls will have much better vertical support to run very low pressure (with much higher volume) giving you better tracking and more patch contact as if you had bigger tires minus the weight. That will be your $900 benefit IMO (and stiffer and normally lighter but not in your case) - only you can tell if worth it.

Some tire gets a lot bigger, some won't work (conti TK 2.2, even 2.4 not sure about) - there is a long thread here about tire http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ibis-741-941-rim-tire-combos-936005.html


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## spunkmtb (Jun 22, 2009)

Bermzilla said:


> So my LB wheels came in today. I ordered them built up with the Hipe Hubs. I mounted 2.35 Schwalbe Nobby Nics on the front ant rear. Here is the problem. The LB wheel weigh 10 grams less then my DT Swiss wheels. Also the tire measures at exactly 2.34 when mounted. So I didn't save weight and I didn't get the wide square tire profile I was expecting. So what did I pay $900 for? Maybe my expectations were too high, but right now I'm not seeing an advantage over what I had. Maybe they are a bit more stiff. Am I missing something here? I'm of he mind to just sell the wheel set and cut my losses.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Here are my thoughts. The Hope Hubs probably weigh more than the DT Swiss Hubs. Also I tell all my customers that there is only one spoke to use. DT Swiss aero bladed/Sapim CX-Ray spokes. Expensive, light, strong, & worth it.

My weight is currently up right now and I am 245lbs geared up. For my 29er I ordered 2 38mm rims. My wheelset (Without tape or valves) weighed in at 1485 built up. I used DT swiss hubs, DT Swiss Aero Bladed spokes, DT swiss alloy nips & the 38mm rims. IMO the spokes are a critical place to save weight & gain performance. My hubs weighed in at 230 grams for the rear and about 125 for the front. Again the Hopes are significantly heavier.

These are my thoughts. If you ever need any parts (Spokes, hubs, advice on your wheel builds feel free to contact me) My shop is launching in a few weeks.


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

I did some research. It appears the "problem" is the tire. The Nobby Nic does not gain any volume by adding it to the wide rim. The Hans Dampf on the other hand expands tremendously. I decided to go NN in the rear and HD in the front. That will keep things light and large!


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

NN might not grow but it will still ride better.

also wheelset is not lighter but weight is closer to the center now.

test drive then make an opinion


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Bermzilla said:


> I did some research. It appears the "problem" is the tire. The Nobby Nic does not gain any volume by adding it to the wide rim. The Hans Dampf on the other hand expands tremendously. I decided to go NN in the rear and HD in the front. That will keep things light and large!


It's not about static tread width anymore.
The NN will gain volume but it may not gain much static thread width. 
It will gain sidewall support. You can run it with less air pressure because of the added volume. That is when you should measure the tread width smashed against the trail surface. When you do that the sidewall support the wider rim gives your tire will keep it from folding over at the lower pressure. More of your tread will be on the trail giving you grip but the sidewall support will let you really push that traction for more confidence cornering and more fun.


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> It's not about static tread width anymore.
> The NN will gain volume but it may not gain much static thread width.
> It will gain sidewall support. You can run it with less air pressure because of the added volume. That is when you should measure the tread width smashed against the trail surface. When you do that the sidewall support the wider rim gives your tire will keep it from folding over at the lower pressure. More of your tread will be on the trail giving you grip but the sidewall support will let you really push that traction for more confidence cornering and more fun.


That may be true, but when you're in the sh!t do you want to look down and see a 2.3 or a 2.6 tire? Biggger is better in some situations.


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

I'd try Hans Dampf 2.35 Front and Rear. Maybe an HD 2.35 Front and Ardent 2.25 Rear as well


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

So, ordered the LB 38 rims. Then take DTswiss 240s, now I think I'll order the Pillar 1420, have any suggestion about nipples and spokes size?


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

For nipples, go with Newson Sportec Ti nipples. They are the easiest nipples to get to high tension without rounding off. They require a special tool to use, but they are the best out there, and for me made my wheel build extremely easy compared to traditional nipples.

Newson Sportec


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

Thanks @IdahoLee but I don't want to spend a lot..
Titanium is expensive.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

arthuar said:


> Thanks @IdahoLee but I don't want to spend a lot..
> Titanium is expensive.


You're spending on spokes when Sapim Race or Lasers will be much less and come with nipples.


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

The Ti nipples are expensive, but the build was super easy and stiff. I have never been able to get alloy to as high a tension as Ti without rounding them off, so my builds have never been this stiff. I am not sure I will build wheels for myself again without Ti nipples.


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

So far I've had 2 rides with my LB 38mm rims (built up on Hope front, Hadley rear, with Wheelsmith DB14s and brass nipples). Rims alone were 440g on the money. They aren't the lightest wheels out there (about 1800g) but they removed a lot of weight from outside compared to my last wheelset, so they feel much lighter, and maaaan do they track well. No deflection. The only concern is if your tires will hold the line you chose. The builder (Ethan @ Dirt Merchant Bicycles) said they built up very easy. It's completely worth the $100 ish per rim over alloy. Durability is the only outstanding question at this point, but so far I'm very happy!


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

Did any of you change your suspension after switching to the LB wheels? I've got a few rides in on my new wheels and my bike feels harsh now. I'm thinking I need to reset my suspension to compensate for the increase in stiffness. I'm on a Mach 6 with a Pike/ DBAir combo.


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## baltik (Nov 16, 2005)

My builder Dave Thomas intentionally went with a very light spoke gauge to create some flex and give


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

The ride could be considered harsh. My dirt jumper is an interesting ride now. The complete lack of flex makes it feel very stiff, and some could call that harsh. I have started to think that on a full suspension, that harshness wouldn't be there, and may be a very nice ride.


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

For me the wheels went on a new frame/suspension - it was part of a complete build. So everything changed and I had to dial everything again anyway.


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## Markiel (Mar 26, 2015)

I just ordered a pair of rims. I have straighpull hubs - 28 hole. Thinking of ordering the Pillar spokes from Light Bicycle. 

Do you think the Pillar 1420 spokes would be strong enough with a 28 spoke build, or would I be better off with DT competitions?

Have people had good luck adding 4 mm to the stated ERD with the DT Swiss spoke calculator?


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## Rideon (Jan 13, 2004)

Bermzilla said:


> Did any of you change your suspension after switching to the LB wheels? I've got a few rides in on my new wheels and my bike feels harsh now. I'm thinking I need to reset my suspension to compensate for the increase in stiffness. I'm on a Mach 6 with a Pike/ DBAir combo.


How about tire pressure? Word has it that with the wider internal diameter rims you can drop air pressure due to the increase in tire sidewall support. I found that to be the case even going to 24mm internals.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Rideon said:


> How about tire pressure? Word has it that with the wider internal diameter rims you can drop air pressure due to the increase in tire sidewall support.


This is true and more. I was down around 11 or 12 on my 30 inside front with no foldover and very good traction on loose segments of a trail. Rocky sections prevent me from taking full advantage of this though. I am safer staying at 15-16psi for the front.


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## Rideon (Jan 13, 2004)

eb1888 said:


> This is true and more. I was down around 11 or 12 on my 30 inside front with no foldover and very good traction on loose segments of a trail. Rocky sections prevent me from taking full advantage of this though. I am safer staying at 15-16psi for the front.


That's impressive. What do you weigh?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## derekbob (May 4, 2005)

I just received my LB rims. They look sweet! They shipped 5 days ago. I'm probably going to go with a BHS MTB270/180 combo for a nice budget wheel set. I was tempted to get I9s or Hadleys but the BHS hubs look so good for the cost. My current wheels are 24 poe so I think BHS hubs will be good enough for me.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

How are you guys going tubeless with these rims? I am used to using the stan rim strips and he does not have a strip wide enough for these rims.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

KenPsz said:


> How are you guys going tubeless with these rims? I am used to using the stan rim strips and he does not have a strip wide enough for these rims.


I used this stuff down the center channel of the rim. Does the trick and $7.99 should get you a lifetime supply! It functions exactly like the Stan's tape but is waaaay cheaper.

Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 Blue 18mm x 55m Pack of 2 Tapes | eBay


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

24mm wide. Be hard pressed to use it all up. I've taped a 1/2 dozen wheels so far and have barely made a dent.

Amazon.com: Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8898 Ivory, 24 mm x 55 m (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Bermzilla said:


> Did any of you change your suspension after switching to the LB wheels? I've got a few rides in on my new wheels and my bike feels harsh now. I'm thinking I need to reset my suspension to compensate for the increase in stiffness. I'm on a Mach 6 with a Pike/ DBAir combo.


This is exactly why I think wheels and tires should be the first item considered, and purchased, when building a bike from the ground up.

Similarly, spokes and tension need to be carefully considered. Proper (double butted) spokes at a suitable (120kgf?) tension will yield a much better ride than straight gauge, less durable, less compliant spokes. Particularly on super stiff carbon rims.


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## jlian (Mar 3, 2008)

rusty904 said:


> I used this stuff down the center channel of the rim. Does the trick and $7.99 should get you a lifetime supply! It functions exactly like the Stan's tape but is waaaay cheaper.
> 
> Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 Blue 18mm x 55m Pack of 2 Tapes | eBay
> 
> View attachment 986472


+1 for this tape. I put on two layers. No burps so far on my Schwalbe NN/RaRa tires & LB 38mm rims combination. The internal bumps seem to really keep the tire bead in place. It also makes taking off tires really difficult.


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## Foxhound (Mar 14, 2015)

Pics of my new LB 38 on DT240s SP hubs ready for despatch today!


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Did you send them your dt240s to get built? If so how was the process?


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## Foxhound (Mar 14, 2015)

funnyjr said:


> Did you send them your dt240s to get built? If so how was the process?


No. LB can source DT Swiss hubs directly, so I just asked asked them to do the build and they supplied the bill for all parts, labour, and shipping. Came to 1060.88 USD including shipping and PayPal fees (£720 to us Brits). Took about 3 weeks lead time for the build, and now 5-7 days wait for shipping.


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

Has anybody got experience with 2.2" tires on these wheels? 

I've got a 29" 38mm wheelset on order and would like to have tires ready to go on when they arrive. Considering 2.2" ignitor or ikon. If 2.2" is a no-go will probably go with 2.35 ikon. 

Scotch tape and 48mm stems already ordered thanks to this thread.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

honeydew said:


> Has anybody got experience with 2.2" tires on these wheels?
> 
> I've got a 29" 38mm wheelset on order and would like to have tires ready to go on when they arrive. Considering 2.2" ignitor or ikon. If 2.2" is a no-go will probably go with 2.35 ikon


You want to check that thread - all about tires on super wide rims (Ibis/Derby who started it really) http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ibis-741-941-rim-tire-combos-936005-8.html

P.S. Conti TrailKing 2.2 don't work IMO (my fav tire). Even the 2.4 is marginal...


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

Thanks for the link, it looks like several people are having good luck with 2.2-2.25 tires on those wheels which are wider than these 38mm LBs.


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

Comes in Blue Too... 
Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 Blue, 24 mm x 55 m



06HokieMTB said:


> 24mm wide. Be hard pressed to use it all up. I've taped a 1/2 dozen wheels so far and have barely made a dent.
> 
> Amazon.com: Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8898 Ivory, 24 mm x 55 m (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific


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## monkeynuts (Mar 15, 2006)

Just finished up my LB 35mm wheelset. Came in at 1390g with a DT Rev/Comp spoke mix. Pretty impressive! Using tune King/Kong hubs.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*One done*

Days have been full-full, but I finally got one built up the other night. I was so excited, I didn't take any weights or the like before mounting up the tire. Front one should finish tonight. Now if it would only stop raining...


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Nice!! I'm still twiddling my thumbs about wether 35 or 38? Can't make up mind


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## David Mackintosh (Mar 21, 2015)

I ordered two 38mm 29er rims in uni weave, 28 hole, and asked for "under 450g if possible." They came in at 434 and 443g. I'll lace these up with BHS hubs, Sapim Race spokes, and Sapim alloy nipples. Total cost was right around $700. I prefer to build my own wheels, but I'm so busy now that I might not get them done until early June. I'm stoked to try them on my Carbine 29C.


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## David Mackintosh (Mar 21, 2015)

IdahoLee said:


> The Ti nipples are expensive, but the build was super easy and stiff. I have never been able to get alloy to as high a tension as Ti without rounding them off, so my builds have never been this stiff. I am not sure I will build wheels for myself again without Ti nipples.


How high are you going and what wrench are you using? I use lube and a Spokey and I've never had problems with tensioning with alloy nipples.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Front wheel. 38 650s, 32h. DT Comps, brass nips. Tape installed. No valve or rotor.









There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Moved


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## pvflyer (Dec 7, 2004)

I bought a pair December of last year and it is the most noticeable improvement I've made on my bike. 

It is holding up pretty good so far ( 5 months of So-Cal riding ) and even after a major tire blow up, due to over inflation when I was trying to lock the tire bead in place. I got greedy and really over inflated the tire :nono:. 

Both of my rims came at 410 g even.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

These came in the mail yesterday, 26er 38mm wide, DH layup. I'm a heavy short asian rider. It will be built with Hadley Hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, ss washers, and polyax brass nipples. Estimate build weight is the same as the rhythm wheels.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

how long did it take to receive them ? they look good... still on the fence about 38mm for Trail bike with 2.2 tires (I'm demoing 40mm right now). DH bike could use super wide.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

It took a total of a month from ordered to delivered, 4/20 to 5/21.


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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

Here is a set of wheels I just built for a friend. 
LB 38 mm DH 29:er rims on Hope Pro2 Evo and DT competition spokes:








My own set of LB38 DH 29:er are still holding up well after 3 months of abuse in the rocky terrain around Gothenburg.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

rusty904 said:


> I went with the 38's because the bead wall was a bit thicker. On carbon rims that tends to be the place where failure happens the most, at least in my experience. Figured the extra beefiness might help. Also the 38's have a much more considerable bead "hump" to keep the tires from burping. The deep dish, rounded design looks a lot cooler as well IMO.
> 
> I used I9 hubs but I used LB's ERD for my measurements and the spoke length turned out perfect.


I'm looking to ditch my 26" Blunt35's laced to I9's that are barely a year old. The ERD on the LB 27.5 38mm and the 26" Blunt are within 1mm. I have a bit more confidence in just swapping rims knowing the advertised numbers were correct.

Any idea what your LB/I9 setup weighed in at?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

R-P said:


> Here is a set of wheels I just built for a friend.
> LB 38 mm DH 29:er rims on Hope Pro2 Evo and DT competition spokes:
> View attachment 990435
> 
> ...


Ive vey been using mine for 6 months. I raced in stage 1 Ews it's been solid. Only problem the weight is 1.9kg with hope hubs and dh lay up.

how the am version held up?

Are those removable deCal?

Which has better quality of decals silk graphics or bk stickers?


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## R-P (Mar 11, 2015)

These are DH layup. I have no experience of the AM version. I don´t think 1.9 kg is an issue considering the width and stiffness of the rims. If low weight is the main focus there are much lighter rims to choose. The decals seem to be clear coated so removing them would not be so easy. Better to order the rims without decals.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Guys

Mine 38th are finally home. 
Need some advise.

I'm planning to set them up with Sapim race spokes and brass nipples.
And here comes the question:

do You recommend using washers - to prevent nipple pulling from carbon rim or it doesn't matter ?


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## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Placek said:


> Guys
> 
> Mine 38th are finally home.
> Need some advise.
> ...


It does not matter and they are not necessary. But you can use them if you want to. Your rims already have a very high tension rating and you should not be pulling spokes through under normal conditions unless there is a defect.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Placek said:


> Guys
> 
> Mine 38th are finally home.
> Need some advise.
> ...


I'm using the sapim hm washer just to make it easier to turn & true the wheels. This will be my first wheel build.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Little dab of grease on the nipple seat is all you need really..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I have a question for those that have this rims, are the spoke nipple holes have the 6 degree angle drilled (directionally drilled)? I checked my rims and could not tell if it is angle or not. E-mailed LB and they said that it has the 6 degree angle holes. 

Which is the standard drilled, straight or angle. I read that if you don't ask for the angle drill when order, you will get the straight drill nipple holes, is this correct? thanks guys. I built the front and mount tires already. Hope I don't have to disassemble the wheel.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

FWIW, I had a helluva time getting a Schwalbe Hans Dampf (2.4) on my 38's (650). As much as I love the HD, I'm seriously considering another tire just because I'll be screwed if I have to pull that thing on the trial to put a tube in.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I mounted my old 26 x 2.35 Bontrager XR4 Team Issue without any problem. it's holding pressure at 40 psi for the past 2 days.


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## arthuar (Jun 5, 2007)

*Help Me !! Please...*

Hi,
Just received mine.
Something has gone wrong, they full of scratches and defected.

Please help me, what can I do?

Not only they looks bad but I feel pretty unsafe to ride them on DH. 
See the pics... :- (

https://goo.gl/photos/W1mrVHSwpCd7m42JA


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

arthuar said:


> Hi,
> Just received mine.
> Something has gone wrong, they full of scratches and defected.
> 
> ...


I looked am confused on what is not safe from your pictures? looks like they rubbed on each other in shipping. I would be okay and go ride, but that's me


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

If you feel unsafe about that, you are not meant for carbon rims. The first time you ride them in rocky terraine, they will be scuffed more than that. Those look fine to me too.


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

ckspeed said:


> I have a question for those that have this rims, are the spoke nipple holes have the 6 degree angle drilled (directionally drilled)? I checked my rims and could not tell if it is angle or not. E-mailed LB and they said that it has the 6 degree angle holes.
> 
> Which is the standard drilled, straight or angle. I read that if you don't ask for the angle drill when order, you will get the straight drill nipple holes, is this correct? thanks guys. I built the front and mount tires already. Hope I don't have to disassemble the wheel.


I might be wrong as I have not thought about that before, but if the wheel is laced properly so the valve is between the parallel(ish) spoke pairs (if that makes sense) then the angles should naturally be correct. I once accidentally laced so the valve with in the tight triangle section of spokes....which I had to re-lace.


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## bridgestone14 (Mar 22, 2005)

Honestly these rims look to fine to me.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

arthuar said:


> Hi,
> Just received mine.
> Something has gone wrong, they full of scratches and defected.
> 
> ...


which rim did you get? if it's what I am looking for I will buy them off of you


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

alshead said:


> FWIW, I had a helluva time getting a Schwalbe Hans Dampf (2.4) on my 38's (650). As much as I love the HD, I'm seriously considering another tire just because I'll be screwed if I have to pull that thing on the trial to put a tube in.


was that a new or used tire ? I had better luck after the tire has some miles on it, but yea some just weren't going to fit


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

arthuar said:


> Hi,
> Something has gone wrong, they full of scratches and defected.
> https://goo.gl/photos/W1mrVHSwpCd7m42JA


That doesn't look very good... looks like both sides are welded in the middle, and lots of places where it almost looks like delamination - I've seen people posting older carbon wheels with this look, but my Derby sure don't have any resin looking issue like yours. I wouldn't be happy either... Do others have this issue on their LB rims ?
I've been thinking of ordering some, but not if they come out like that!


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

arthuar said:


> Hi,
> Just received mine.
> Something has gone wrong, they full of scratches and defected.
> 
> ...


Looks like the finish could be better, I doubt there's an issue with function.

They shouldn't have sent them out looking like that, I'd ask for a 50% discount if they wanted me to keep them, otherwise I'd file a claim with my CC company or paypal.

I ordered 3k gloss and they came out looking great, wonder what the issue was...


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

dumb question but what is the difference in 3K, 12K or is it UK carbon. I think it was UK as an option


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

Received my wheelset on Wednesday, they looked perfect, unmarred. Rode two trails so far, one a time trial race. Very pleased, better performance in every way. 

FWIW, IKON 2.2" work well on these and measure 2.333" actual.

edit: these are UD matte no logos


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

davec113 said:


> I ordered 3k gloss and they came out looking great, wonder what the issue was...


any weave finish would cover any UD imperfections which are easier to spot...


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## Shifty Bits (Aug 28, 2009)

Hey guys... do any of you know anything about another Chinese company called "Ican"?

They are selling these rims for $165 on Amazon...

http://www.amazon.com/ICAN-Clincher...sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1433782084&sr=1-27

It appears to be very similar to the light bicycle 35mm rim, but with a thicker bead like the 38 mm version has.

I have a big Amazon gift card and was thinking about buying a wheelset there.. but the only ones offered in 29er/wide/carbon are using "powerway" hubs... um, no thanks.

So, was considering buying these rims plus some hope 40Ts and having local LBS lace them up. Thoughts?


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I looked at that rim, the bead is only 2.5mm. Not as thick as the 38mm wide LB rim. Even for the 3.2mm of the LB 38mm, it's still looks thin to me.


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

My rims have similar markings, as do my race face SixC cranks and bars. I wouldn't be worried. Lace 'em up!


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## Shifty Bits (Aug 28, 2009)

ckspeed said:


> I looked at that rim, the bead is only 2.5mm. Not as thick as the 38mm wide LB rim. Even for the 3.2mm of the LB 38mm, it's still looks thin to me.


They appear to be exact dimensions as Light Bicycle 35mm rim.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Most of the 35mm wide chinese carbon rim that I have been researching for my Giant Anthem 275 have very similar specs, 2.5mm bead thickness & 25mm depth. I guess the 2.5mm bead thickness is ok for XC bike.

I choose the LB 38 over the LB 33 26er because I was looking for at lease a 29mm internal width. I could have gone with the Nextie 35mm (29 internal) but I prefer the LB carbon rim.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

Shifty Bits said:


> Hey guys... do any of you know anything about another Chinese company called "Ican"?
> 
> They are selling these rims for $165 on Amazon...
> 
> ...


i think those may have standard sidewalls, the hookless type offer more impact resistance as there is more material to cope with the hits. I have those hopes and they are ok and plenty of parts for diy maintenance/ repair, I found this out after a bearing let go 2 weeks in


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

I got a PM asking about impressions, weight and the tires and told him I'd respond here in case the info might be useful to others.

I had these built by LB, AM layup with 32H Hope hubs (15mm front qr rear) and DT comp spokes. Weight without tape, valves, or tires was 839g front 975g rear, total 1814g. Set up with tires weight is 1.86 lbs less than previous setup, which is Al 19mm inner wheels, tubeless, Ignitor rear and 2.4 Hutchinson Cougar front.

They setup tubeless very easily. I have a compressor but just used a floor pump and tires seated at ~35psi with no frantic pumping. Used the 48mm stems and scotch tape mentioned here, both from the ebay links and orange sealant.

Tires are IKON 2.2 front and rear. They stick out wider than the rims a bit more than it looks like in the pic below.

LB was good to deal with, sent three extra spokes and nipples no cost and time to build and ship was exactly as quoted (to the day).

Here are two pics:



Over the past four days I have ridden them 44 miles on three different trails. Been riding MTB for 26 years but have no previous experience riding wheels other than those that come on mid-range bikes; so with that in mind: performance of these is better in every possible way by far and getting PR times every ride by significant margins. Been gradually lowering pressure and rode 16 front 19 rear today on a rooty trail with no rim strikes.


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

This may have been covered before, but I'm curious what has been the average shipping time to the US with these Chinese rims? And what shipping carrier does LB use? EMS?


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Captain Cobb said:


> This may have been covered before, but I'm curious what has been the average shipping time to the US with these Chinese rims? And what shipping carrier does LB use? EMS?


I think if you order the DH lay up it's about a total of a month from order to your door with a shipping time of 7 days. At least for me anyway. They use EMS from china, delivery by USPS here in the States.


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

They use registered mail, my first delivery attempt was 6 days after shipment notification.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

ckspeed said:


> I think if you order the DH lay up it's about a total of a month from order to your door with a shipping time of 7 days. At least for me anyway. They use EMS from china, delivery by USPS here in the States.
> 
> View attachment 994729
> View attachment 994730
> View attachment 994731


That is just how my shipping is for the wheels that are on their way.

Thanks for the information on the USPS that was one question I needed to know on the shipping.


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

honeydew said:


> They use registered mail, my first delivery attempt was 6 days after shipment notification.


Good to know, thank you. I've ordered my rims from Nextie, but I'm guessing that the shipping time is similar..


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## Broadica (Mar 28, 2008)

honeydew, just to confirm, that wheelset of yours is 29er 38mm 32holes?
1.5kg + seem very light, interesting. 

somehow i my calculation for a 650 32h came to about 1.7kg +. am eying a similar setup for 650b version


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## honeydew (Jan 16, 2011)

Broadica, thank you for asking for confirmation as I have inadvertently provided incorrect weights. Yes, the wheelset is 29er 38mm 32 hole. My little girl made off with my note paper and I had referred to texts with a friend instead of my scale photos. The weights I posted were for his wheels which he received a couple days prior to me and are LB but 19mm inner width.

Here are my photos from when I weighed them:




I apologize for any confusion and will edit my previous post to reflect the correct weight. The overall reduction of 1.86 lbs was accurate.


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## Richwak (Jun 11, 2015)

Been following a number of threads regarding these rims. Decided to get the 31.6 internal all mountain layup on dt swiss 240 straightpull centrelock hubs.
The communicating i received was spot on. I even got an email saying Parcelforce had tried to deliver but were having trouble.
The wheels look great and are pretty light as seen in the photos. The weight is with rim tape and valves installed. Tyres arrive tomorrow so will post the profiles of a couple of different tyres then.

It's taken 5 weeks from ordering to getting the item but they have been in the country 2 weeks at customs and uselees parcelforce. If you are going to buy these rims/wheels and live in the uk i'd suggesting asking about UPS or DHL as you'd get them 2 weeks sooner!








802g rear








707g front
1509g total


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## Dbrookie (Jan 3, 2014)

I was originally thinking about getting their 35mm rims but when I've emailed with LB they are really pushing me towards the 38mm. Are they that much better? I'm concerned with going too wide and I'd prefer something lighter which is why I was originally thinking 35mm, but now I just don't know??


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## amish_matt (Aug 18, 2006)

I haven't ridden the 38s, but I've been on my 35s for almost a year now and they're fantastic. I wouldn't change a thing, including the width. 

Mine are built with I9 Torch Classic hubs and Sapim Laser spokes and came in at 1577g for the set. Despite numerous rock hits and a pinch flat, I haven't touched them since the build and they're dead straight.


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

*28 or 32 Spokes?*

Looking for info from the community. I am getting very close to ordering a set of 38mm rims with Hope 40t hubs. Not sure if I should go with 28 or 32 spokes. Wheels will go on a Tracer 275c and I am about 180 geared. Typical PNW riding...


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

28 is plenty.
I did 28/32 on mine, if I were to do it again I'd probably go 24/28. I ride aggressive AM/enduro racing and park/dh on my LB 38's.. These rims are STRONG and very very stiff!


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

vokeswaagin said:


> 28 is plenty.
> I did 28/32 on mine, if I were to do it again I'd probably go 24/28. I ride aggressive AM/enduro racing and park/dh on my LB 38's.. These rims are STRONG and very very stiff!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


how much do you weigh? I'm pushing 200 weighted down... would you still go with what you recommended?


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm about 175-180 in gear.. 28's will be fine for you


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

Which of the stans stems did you guys go with on these tires to make them tubeless? Going by measurements the 35mm mountain valve is going to be to short.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

44mm stan valve.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

44s work but still not much valve for some pumps to hold on to.. I went with some 48mm WTBs, they're alloy and come in various colors too!


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## christophert21 (Jul 14, 2013)

Guys from the UK, what is the approx cost of a set of 38mm dh layup wheels with hope hubs, delivered and customs etc. Cant get my head around all the delivery and custom charges. 
Just like an idea of the price roughly...i.e. £500, £700, £1000?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I just pulled the trigger on a pair of these. I really wanted to get a pair of Nox/Derby/Ibis rims built up but the look the fiance gave me when I mentioned a $1500+ price tag would peel paint. I'm 155 without gear, take good care of my stuff, and don't do big jumps, so figured the risk of damage is pretty low.

Build:
38mm 650B AM setup, UD, matte, no decal, 28H
DT Swiss 240S, Straight Pull, 28H, ISO/6bolt, Shimano
DT Competition spokes
DT brass nipples (figured that since their wheelbuilder isn't going to be as good as some of the guys in the US, better to err on the side of caution over alloy nipples)
price was $1045 including shipping to USA and Paypal

They didn't quote total weight, but my guess is they'll end up in the 1670-1700g range for the pair (without tape or valves), which should be a nice savings compared to my Flow EXs (1850+g).


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

I ordered a set:
26" 38mm AM layup, UD, matte, no decal, 32 hole
Novatec 882, DT comp spokes w/ brass nipples

It took 29 days from order to delivery. Shipping was only 5 days from China to the east coast of the US.

I asked for 9mm/10mm thru bolt configuration for the hubs. That is what I got, but they did not include the thru bolts themselves. It wasn't spelled out, but I kinda assumed they would. Has anyone else ordered this configuration? Did you receive thru bolts? I will just reuse the bolts from my old wheelset. They came with thru bolts when I bought them.

I haven't had a chance to ride them yet. I will report back once I do.


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## Richwak (Jun 11, 2015)

Been riding the 31 mm internal rims for a month now and i'm impressed with everything about them. Finally settled on a 2.4 high roller on the front and a michelin wild grip r on the back. The high roller is huge compared to the 2.3 version. Both tyres have a decent profile and grip really well. Looking forward to the 2.5 folding bead minion when it comes out.


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## Mahmer09 (Jan 8, 2013)

Debating between these, 38mm, and the 30mm for a 27.5. Here is what I don't know, the 30mm has a much lower profile, 20mm to 32mm on the other rim. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Both rims have a good sidewall. The 30mm is 70 grams lighter. I am more of a XC/trail rider, would the 30mm be just fine or should I go all out for the 38mm version? 
38mm: carbon 650b rims 38mm wide hookless mountain bike rims tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle

30mm: carbon mountain bike 650b rim mtb 27.5 rim Light-Bicycle


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## Richwak (Jun 11, 2015)

I jave the 38 mm rims and if you are just riding trails they would be overkill although they do make your bike look like a monster truck. You need to be careful about tyre choice on the 38mm, with the narrower rims all tyres will work fine.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

I just got the front tire mounted up tubless and let me tell you that was the EASIEST tubless conversion ever, but one weird thing.

2.35 Duro tire
38mm 29 carbon wheels
sealed the spoke holes with the tape mentioned earlier

Tires inflated with just a tire pump, first time for that.
I added Stans fluid via the stem then re-inflated to 40psi, that is where the weird thing happened. After around 2 min the tire popped off the rim! sounded like a shotgun going off. With aluminum rims always went to 40 to get the stans to seal the tire nice.

Remounted the tire only inflated to 35 psi and rode it around no problems. I will let it sit overnight then deflate to my normal front tire pressure of 25 psi.

So like mentioned in the post before this at 38mm wide tires need to be wide to stay on these rims.


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## ramslam (Oct 19, 2010)

*Awesome*



honeydew said:


> Received my wheelset on Wednesday, they looked perfect, unmarred. Rode two trails so far, one a time trial race. Very pleased, better performance in every way.
> 
> FWIW, IKON 2.2" work well on these and measure 2.333" actual.
> 
> edit: these are UD matte no logos


Thats just the answer I was looking for since I will be mounting the same tire/rim combo on my Ripley and was worried about fitment.

Thanks


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## SamPNW (Feb 22, 2015)

Any more ride impressions now that people have had them a while longer? I'm considering the 38mm 29er wheels. Not sure about what hub/spokes just yet. Are they holding up well? Is the 31.6mm inner width too much for trail riding?


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

I really love mine. They work great, and have held up just fine for dirt jumping and urban assault.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

SamPNW said:


> Is the 31.6mm inner width too much for trail riding?


will you keep the old narrower set for x country type riding? Do you exclusively like fat tires?


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## SamPNW (Feb 22, 2015)

natrat said:


> will you keep the old narrower set for x country type riding? Do you exclusively like fat tires?


I don't have the old narrower set. I've got the race face turbine wheels that are significantly narrower and more for xc or trail use than what I'm using them for. I don't see myself using tires narrower than 2.3 unless someone can come up with a good reason to do so. And I'm actually in the Denver area now, so no PNW loam for me


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## SamPNW (Feb 22, 2015)

Also, for those who bought complete wheelsets, what spokes did you go with and why? Looks like the pillar aero x-tra 1420 spokes are lighter, but are they going to be as strong as the DT Swiss Competition?


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

I have a few hundred miles on mine now. 38s built with Torch Classics ans DT Swiss Alpine 3 spokes. 

They are super stiff. I was running into a lot of tire rub issues with Goma 2.4 on my E29. Rub is no longer an issue. I'm running 18 in the front and 24 in the back. Stiff and sticky. Happy guy here.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Which goma are you running? I have the 2.4 "sticky" (non TNT) and the volume is awesome but the rubber really doesn't seem very "sticky" or soft for that matter.. Especially when compared to the 3C DHF I just installed on the rear... Hoping for the 2.5 minion to come out soon..

Edit: I too am running 19-17psi front on the 2.4 Goma.. The tire conforms well but rubber isn't that soft..


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## Iceman69 (Oct 30, 2005)

Curious on the size width of the Goma 2.4 you are using if you have a 38mm LB as well ? I am also running a 38mm LB rim in front but with a Butcher 2.5 sx casing.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

j0hn said:


> I ordered a set:
> 26" 38mm AM layup, UD, matte, no decal, 32 hole
> Novatec 882, DT comp spokes w/ brass nipples
> 
> ...


UPDATE:
I only have one ride on my new wheels, but my experience seems to be consistent with everyone else's. For the most part I think they live up to the hype.

I have read that these wheels are much stiffer than aluminum, and track better. I ride a rigid bike and so this comment concerned me. I did not have any complaints about the stiffness of my previous rims (Performance house brand - Forte Xenduro), and I don't need an even harsher ride. I was expecting lower tire pressure would more than offset any additional stiffness and result in a better, more compliant ride. I think this is the case and I'm pleased. So I am somewhat baffled by the consistent comments of "they are stiffer and track better". Since everyone is running lower tire pressure, how can you tell?

As expected, my old tire is wider and has a less rounded profile on the LB rims, giving it more volume. I ended up running pressures around 22 psi. On descents, there is more cushion (for the pushin'?), allowing me to go faster while maintaining control. On technical climbs, I definitely have more stability and traction. There are a few technical spots on the trail I rode that I make most of the time with my old wheel set. With the new wheels, I made all of them easily. There was one rock garden I have never been able to ride and I made that as well; very satisfying. A couple of times on a slow technical climb I could actually see the tire deforming around rocks and roots, almost down to the rim. It was amazing to be able to see that. So far I have not felt any rim strikes, just a smooth ride and tons of traction.

I did not weigh these wheels. In my hand, they do feel a bit lighter as expected. But with hub, spokes, rotor, cassette, and tire being the same as my previous wheelset, and the only difference being the rim itself, I think it is a fairly small percentage. I am not aware of the wheels feeling lighter while riding. I imagine it will make a difference over the course of an entire ride, but I was not consciously aware of it. Instead, I was very aware of the plush traction.

I realize that using the word "plush" in the context of a full rigid bike is laughable to most people. But that is the way they feel compared to my previous wheelset. They inspire confidence too. I can't wait to see how my riding improves with more time on them.

There is one other unexpected thing. I saw the rim depth on the diagram, but it did not register in my mind. These things are deep. I run tubes and the valve stems were *barely* long enough to reach all of the way through. I cannot attach the pump valve to the valve stem. The best I can do is hold the valve on with one hand and pump with the other. I did manage to inflate the tires with some patience. I am not looking forward to trying this on the trail with a frame pump. I need to do some shopping for tubes with longer valve stems, but I've never see a tube with valve stem length spec'd out. No, I'm not interested in tubeless.

Conclusions: If I already had a decent wheelset, I don't think I would trash it just to get these wheels. But since I needed a new wheelset anyway, I am really glad I bought these. If I could find a wide aluminum wheelset for half the price, I would probably have gone that route. But I'm not sure such a thing exists. I don't think I will ever go back to narrower rims at this point and I do think wide carbon is the future.


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## Jboy71 (Aug 6, 2010)

Just reporting my personal experience with the LB 38s. I have about 25 good trail rides on them, and so far I'm a happy camper. The combination of light weight and high volume (I'm running 2.5 front and 2.4 rear) is a wonderful thing. I ride in Northern Utah where it's often steep, rocky and loose. The overall ride quality has improved, traction has improved, surfablitly has improved, and I actually dropped a bit of weight off my wheels in the process. My rims already have many battle scars and have taken the abuse like a champ. At this point it would suck to have to go back to standard width alloy rims.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

Jboy71 said:


> Just reporting my personal experience with the LB 38s. I have about 25 good trail rides on them, and so far I'm a happy camper. The combination of light weight and high volume (I'm running 2.5 front and 2.4 rear) is a wonderful thing. I ride in Northern Utah where it's often steep, rocky and loose. The overall ride quality has improved, traction has improved, surfablitly has improved, and I actually dropped a bit of weight off my wheels in the process. My rims already have many battle scars and have taken the abuse like a champ. At this point it would suck to have to go back to standard width alloy rims.


how do they do climbing, I always wondered about these... I am sure traction is awesome, but I hardly ever suffer traction issues on my bike, it's a tracking machine, but wanted to know if the 38's slowed you down with more drag...


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

I ride in the desert. No clay. No mud. Just sand over hard and a lot of granite. I run the Goma 2.4" Sticky TNT front and rear. Way better than the Capitains and the Controls I rode before that. I have a set of Minion DHF that came in the E29 when I got it. They worked fine but are heavy. 

The Goma measured a full 2.5__ at 20psi. That's the casing not the knobs. Never measured them on the old 19mm wheels. 

The Slaughters are horrible out here IMO. It's just too loose for the tiny center tread. Butchers worked fine on a demo though. I have an AKA and Saguaro on my SS and it's a loose ride compared to my E29. Almost scary. I have to remember to ride very light at higher speeds. But it's also a rigid and the tires are 2.2.


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## Jboy71 (Aug 6, 2010)

waveslayer said:


> how do they do climbing, I always wondered about these... I am sure traction is awesome, but I hardly ever suffer traction issues on my bike, it's a tracking machine, but wanted to know if the 38's slowed you down with more drag...


I didn't loose any climbing efficiency at all, and in fact I gained some efficiency due to dropping a bit of weight compared to my old wheelset. That being said, I've been riding widish tires (2.35 to 2.5) for a long time, so the slight increase in width on the 38's wasn't significant for me, whereas it might be for someone used to riding a lighter, thinner tire. Like everything else with mt biking, it's all about trade offs and personal preference. I've found that wider tires roll better (float better) through the rough and loose stuff than narrower tires (both climbing and descending), which basically offsets the extra weight of the wider tires. Someone with a different riding style, riding different terrain on a different bike might feel otherwise, but I think it's safe to say that people who prefer riding wide tires will enjoy the added benefit of wide rims as well.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

Jboy71 said:


> I didn't loose any climbing efficiency at all, and in fact I gained some efficiency due to dropping a bit of weight compared to my old wheelset. That being said, I've been riding widish tires (2.35 to 2.5) for a long time, so the slight increase in width on the 38's wasn't significant for me, whereas it might be for someone used to riding a lighter, thinner tire. Like everything else with mt biking, it's all about trade offs and personal preference. I've found that wider tires roll better (float better) through the rough and loose stuff than narrower tires (both climbing and descending), which basically offsets the extra weight of the wider tires. Someone with a different riding style, riding different terrain on a different bike might feel otherwise, but I think it's safe to say that people who prefer riding wide tires will enjoy the added benefit of wide rims as well.


thanks!


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

j0hn said:


> There is one other unexpected thing. I saw the rim depth on the diagram, but it did not register in my mind. These things are deep. I run tubes and the valve stems were *barely* long enough to reach all of the way through. I cannot attach the pump valve to the valve stem. .


I noticed the rim depth when putting the bike on the roof rack on the car. The retainer strap for the rear wheel just could not reach around it. With the tubes the minimum i could get to work is a 42 mm presta valve, ie continental


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Mahmer09 said:


> Debating between these, 38mm, and the 30mm for a 27.5. Here is what I don't know, the 30mm has a much lower profile, 20mm to 32mm on the other rim. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Both rims have a good sidewall. The 30mm is 70 grams lighter. I am more of a XC/trail rider, would the 30mm be just fine or should I go all out for the 38mm version?
> 38mm: carbon 650b rims 38mm wide hookless mountain bike rims tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle
> 
> 30mm: carbon mountain bike 650b rim mtb 27.5 rim Light-Bicycle


If you are willing to wait another month, LB is coming out with a more rounded (model RM650BC17) size that is in between the 2 width above at 34/28ID and but still deep at 28mm but asymetrical (2.6mm offset). 24mm isn't wider than most rims now, and like others said 38/32ID you need to be careful about tire choice.









It is for 29er and 650B only currently.
650B new rim: 410g+/-15, USD183/pcs
29er new rim: 430g+/-15, USD188/pcs

I may wait for those, though I need a 650b/26" combo for my bike.

Update: attached profile


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

adumesny said:


> If you are willing to wait another month, LB is coming out with a more rounded (model RM650BC17) size that is in between the 2 width above at 34/28ID and but still deep at 28mm but asymetrical (2.6mm offset). 24mm isn't wider than most rims now, and like others said 38/32ID you need to be careful about tire choice.
> 
> It is for 29er and 650B only currently.
> 650B new rim: 410g+/-15, USD183/pcs
> ...


These new rims sound perfect.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

natrat said:


> I noticed the rim depth when putting the bike on the roof rack on the car. The retainer strap for the rear wheel just could not reach around it. With the tubes the minimum i could get to work is a 42 mm presta valve, ie continental


That is the same tube I'm using as well. And I still cannot connect the pump valve to it. I have to hold it in place with one hand and pump with the other. It works, but it's awkward.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

rfxc said:


> These new rims sound perfect.


yep other than price, I think 28ID will be perfect for my trail bike (2.2 Conti TK tires) as I find the 41mm I've been demoing too wide for those tires.



Mahmer09 said:


> Debating between these, 38mm, and the 30mm for a 27.5. Here is what I don't know, the 30mm has a much lower profile, 20mm to 32mm on the other rim. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Both rims have a good sidewall.


I believe the deeper profile provide better side to side rigidity - according to nobl wheels (pinbike) the lower profile (even with thick lips) LB rims where prone to break for DH which has so much more high pressure g-outs which carbon rims have a tough time with. the 38mm did a lot better. Of course this may not apply to you, so the lighter/cheaper rims might be best.


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## Mahmer09 (Jan 8, 2013)

adumesny said:


> I believe the deeper profile provide better side to side rigidity - according to nobl wheels (pinbike) the lower profile (even with thick lips) LB rims where prone to break for DH which has so much more high pressure g-outs which carbon rims have a tough time with. the 38mm did a lot better. Of course this may not apply to you, so the lighter/cheaper rims might be best.


Thanks. Yeah, I think with the thicker sidewalls/lips on the 30mm seem good enough for trail and cross country riding. Anything over 30mm seems overkill to me for my kind of riding.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

adumesny said:


> If you are willing to wait another month, LB is coming out with a more rounded (model RM650BC17) size that is in between the 2 width above at 34/28ID and but still deep at 28mm but asymetrical (2.6mm offset). 24mm isn't wider than most rims now, and like others said 38/32ID you need to be careful about tire choice.
> 
> It is for 29er and 650B only currently.
> 650B new rim: 410g+/-15, USD183/pcs
> ...


Where'd you find this info? I don't see anything on their website about it. I have an order in for the 38mm 650Bs, but was told they needed an extra 3 weeks to build them due to manufacturing delays. I'm pretty sure I want the 38s still, but the lighter weight and asymmetric shape are interesting (originally wanted Farlows but couldn't justify the cost).


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

j0hn said:


> There is one other unexpected thing. I saw the rim depth on the diagram, but it did not register in my mind. These things are deep. I run tubes and the valve stems were *barely* long enough to reach all of the way through. I cannot attach the pump valve to the valve stem. The best I can do is hold the valve on with one hand and pump with the other. I did manage to inflate the tires with some patience. I am not looking forward to trying this on the trail with a frame pump. I need to do some shopping for tubes with longer valve stems, but I've never see a tube with valve stem length spec'd out. No, I'm not interested in tubeless.


Valve stem extenders.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

NordieBoy said:


> Valve stem extenders.


I didn't know these existed. If I keep one in my camelbak, I can use any tube I want. Thank you.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Last night was my first ride on the LB 38mm rims. Much nicer than the 27mm LB rims they replaced. The stiffness was noticeable and the performance of the exact tires was improved. Like it!


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## CrimsonCountry (Jul 14, 2011)

Andeh said:


> Where'd you find this info? I don't see anything on their website about it. I have an order in for the 38mm 650Bs, but was told they needed an extra 3 weeks to build them due to manufacturing delays. I'm pretty sure I want the 38s still, but the lighter weight and asymmetric shape are interesting (originally wanted Farlows but couldn't justify the cost).





j0hn said:


> That is the same tube I'm using as well. And I still cannot connect the pump valve to it. I have to hold it in place with one hand and pump with the other. It works, but it's awkward.





adumesny said:


> If you are willing to wait another month, LB is coming out with a more rounded (model RM650BC17) size that is in between the 2 width above at 34/28ID and but still deep at 28mm but asymetrical (2.6mm offset). 24mm isn't wider than most rims now, and like others said 38/32ID you need to be careful about tire choice.
> 
> View attachment 1000629
> 
> ...


I got an email last night from LB stating that these new wheels will be available for purchase on the 25th. I really wanted the 38mm myself for the wider profile but the 28 ID (while still deep) and asymmetric drilling would be ideal. Since i'm going with 28H instead of my preferred 32H setup (couldn't pass up a good deal), i'm thinking the asymmetric offset will also help stiffen the wheel even more with my ~200lb weight.


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## David Mackintosh (Mar 21, 2015)

CrimsonCountry said:


> I got an email last night from LB stating that these new wheels will be available for purchase on the 25th. I really wanted the 38mm myself for the wider profile but the 28 ID (while still deep) and asymmetric drilling would be ideal. Since i'm going with 28H instead of my preferred 32H setup (couldn't pass up a good deal), i'm thinking the asymmetric offset will also help stiffen the wheel even more with my ~200lb weight.


I love my 38s, but I think I'd have chosen these if they had been available a month ago. Maybe I can talk a buddy into buying a set for me to lace up. Maybe their next wider rims will also be asymmetrical.


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## CrimsonCountry (Jul 14, 2011)

David Mackintosh said:


> I love my 38s, but I think I'd have chosen these if they had been available a month ago. Maybe I can talk a buddy into buying a set for me to lace up. Maybe their next wider rims will also be asymmetrical.


I still love the 38s too and my mind isn't 100% made up yet. I'm waiting on their answer to that question as well (asymmetric with the wider wheels). Honestly, I wish it was right at 30/36, or even 30/37 for beefier sidewalls, as the jump from my current 24mm ID to 28mm ID probably won't be too drastic. I guess i'd just hate to have "wide envy" after upgrading.


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

*New offset rims are in production*

I spoke with LB regarding the new rims and they are in production.
They will be shipping the week of July 27th.

The new rim ERD is 583mm for the 29er flavor (according to LB).









_MK


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

I got my first ride on these wheels today and one word AWESOME!!!

With the 2.35's I have on the bike I have 20lbs in the front with 25lbs in the rear, it is fat bike like. I am 220 and did not get any rim hits.

I am going to change the front to a 2.5 tire and lower the pressure even more.

Overall a great purchase.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

What is the best way to remove and install tires in LB, it's very difficult compared to narrower rims. 

Do you use tyre tool?


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

I use plastic tire tools I got from walmart in the bike area. Make sure you push the tire to the middle of the rim or you can't get the off.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

KenPsz said:


> I got my first ride on these wheels today and one word AWESOME!!!
> 
> With the 2.35's I have on the bike I have 20lbs in the front with 25lbs in the rear, it is fat bike like. I am 220 and did not get any rim hits.
> 
> ...


Funny I am also going to put a 2.5 up front. So stoked with these rims!


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Dropped my 29" 38's off at my LBS for a build. I'm planning to run a DHF 2.3 front and a DHR2 2.3 rear, but i'm a little concerned about whether that's enough volume for these rims. Tire preferences aside, is that going to be enough volume? Not sure i want to go over 1000g's for some of the other tires I was looking at (Vittoria 2.4's, DHF 2.5, etc.).


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Porch said:


> Dropped my 29" 38's off at my LBS for a build. I'm planning to run a DHF 2.3 front and a DHR2 2.3 rear, but i'm a little concerned about whether that's enough volume for these rims. Tire preferences aside, is that going to be enough volume? Not sure i want to go over 1000g's for some of the other tires I was looking at (Vittoria 2.4's, DHF 2.5, etc.).


I am running 2.3 tires and they are more than enough


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

MK_ said:


> I spoke with LB regarding the new rims and they are in production.
> They will be shipping the week of July 27th.
> 
> The new rim ERD is 583mm for the 29er flavor (according to LB).
> ...


Oh my... I realize I might be waiting a lot to get that in a DH layup, but that might be worth the delay.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

DeeZee said:


> I am running 2.3 tires and they are more than enough


I agree with DeeZee that 2.3 is a plenty of volume. I am just going bigger on the front because I can.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Awesome, thanks!


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

I was running the 2.4 Goma up front w/ 2.3 slaughter rear on my 38s.. Threw on 2.3 DHF and HR2 (both 3c) for a little more grip (softer rubber) and rear braking performance now that the local bike park is open.. Was a little concerned with the width prior to mounting them up.. (2.3 Butcher wasn't quite wide enough, casing was way wider than the shoulder knobs) but they actually fit the rims really good, the shoulder knobs are pretty much right where they should be. I might go 2.5 DHF once they're available but probably not necessary.. We just have a lot of deep [moon] dust and the larger volume definitely helps with floatation.

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## Guest (Jul 21, 2015)

...


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

Sorry to hear that. Since you did not mention any injuries, can we assume you were not hurt?

Was this a landing that probably would have trashed any rim? Or do you think the LB rims are inferior?


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

I can't speak for Henrik83 but I've personally had some sideways landings and some rock strikes that I'm confident would have sent most other rims to the scrap pile. I'm more than impressed with my LB 38s. They've held up to months of DH/park riding and have plenty of scratches to show it haha 

EDIT: more importantly, where'd you find purple DT hubs!?


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## CrimsonCountry (Jul 14, 2011)

Henrik83 said:


> Either the tire pressure was to low, or the stone I landed on was to hard! Good thing I bought three rims from the start = new wheel was done by the next day. 763g with Aerolites must be the perfect DH-setup
> 
> The sound it made when it cracked was quite spectacular. I bet half the bike park heard it, it was LOUD. It happened right under the lift, in one of the biggest jumps the park has to offer.
> Thanks to excellent support a new spare rim is on it's way.


Wow...hope no one was hurt. Either way, it is good to see that LB is so quick in standing behind their product and sending a replacement.

I have to ask....DH or AM build? Your weight? Tire PSI? I was just about to accept that the AM version would be good enough for me then I see posts like this that make me lean towards the DH layup.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

You could always get one DH for rear and AM for front..


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## CrimsonCountry (Jul 14, 2011)

True, that's another option I've been considering as well. Or, 4th option, request that LB build them up to 1/2 DH build around 475g F and R, split the difference. I do realize that i'll never reach 100% certainty on this and just have to pull the trigger and ride the heck out of them...I tend to over-analyze. Granted, easy thing to do when you're spending nearly $1k on a set of wheels...for a bike.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Agreed. 
You'll be happy either way.

I keep forgetting to post these (for reference); first is 2.4 Goma "sticky" (non TNT), second pic is 2.3 DHF 3C 
Measured to casing not knobs
(Sorry, battery in calipers was dying)







2.4695"








2.3430"

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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

I think you're off by a factor of 10. My fork cannot handle a 24" wide tire. It would make my wheel look like a sphere. But how cool would that be?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Henrik83 said:


> 763g with Aerolites must be the perfect DH-setup
> Thanks to excellent support a new spare rim is on it's way.


763gr rear wheel - sounds like you are using AM rim for DH biking... that might be the reason those broke no ?
good to hear they are supporting you - what did you have to pay. just ship cost ? I never thought of getting a 3rd rim, but given the month turn around that was a good idea in retrospect.


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2015)

...


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

j0hn said:


> I think you're off by a factor of 10. My fork cannot handle a 24" wide tire. It would make my wheel look like a sphere. But how cool would that be?


Haha! 
Fixed.

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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Agghh... wait is killing me. My LB 38s finally shipped on the 22nd, and tracking shows them "Despatch from Sorting Center" in Xiamen that day but nothing since. I've got tape, valves, and brand new tires waiting!


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

j0hn said:


> I think you're off by a factor of 10. My fork cannot handle a 24" wide tire. It would make my wheel look like a sphere. But how cool would that be?


MONSTER fat bike? 

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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

Andeh said:


> Agghh... wait is killing me. My LB 38s finally shipped on the 22nd, and tracking shows them "Despatch from Sorting Center" in Xiamen that day but nothing since. I've got tape, valves, and brand new tires waiting!


Same thing happened with mine. You won't see an update until they hit the US. It will be 4-5 days if I remember correctly. If they've already shipped, you're almost there. Patience young Padawan; they're worth the wait!


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

j0hn said:


> Same thing happened with mine. You won't see an update until they hit the US. It will be 4-5 days if I remember correctly. If they've already shipped, you're almost there. Patience young Padawan; they're worth the wait!


Good to know, thanks!


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## khyak (May 8, 2012)

Sorry if this has been discussed, but have gone through half the thread without finding info.

When ordering rims, what does the "weave" mean? Options are 3k, 12 k, or UD. Is this strictly a cosmetic thing or what?


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

khyak said:


> Sorry if this has been discussed, but have gone through half the thread without finding info.
> 
> When ordering rims, what does the "weave" mean? Options are 3k, 12 k, or UD. Is this strictly a cosmetic thing or what?


Cosmetic choice really. 12k is the big carbon weave, 3k is the smaller carbon weave, and UD is just matte black. I like UD because it's the least flashy.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

rusty904 said:


> Cosmetic choice really. 12k is the big carbon weave, 3k is the smaller carbon weave, and UD is just matte black. I like UD because it's the least flashy.


Yeah, I went with UD for the same reason, although was tempted by gloss thinking it would shed dirt/mud better, but then realized it would show scratches more.


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## jcmonty (Apr 11, 2015)

I haven't seen this question asked (apologize if it has been prior) but does light bicycle actually build the wheelsets if purchased as such or just supply the part list?

If they do build them up, how is the quality? Is it recommended to have someone else professionally build them up? I am currently looking at different options for a wide wheelsets.

Also, are most people getting the dh layup? What's the wheelset weights people are seeing with that layup?


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

Has anyone tried Maxxis Crossmark tires on these rims?

They're only 2.25 wide, but the knobs wrap around almost onto the sidewalls so I wonder what happens on a wide rim.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

jcmonty said:


> I haven't seen this question asked (apologize if it has been prior) but does light bicycle actually build the wheelsets if purchased as such or just supply the part list?
> 
> If they do build them up, how is the quality? Is it recommended to have someone else professionally build them up? I am currently looking at different options for a wide wheelsets.
> 
> Also, are most people getting the dh layup? What's the wheelset weights people are seeing with that layup?


They actually build the wheelsets.

I can't speak to their wheel building skill compared to one in the US. I went with straight pull hubs and specified DT brass nipples to give mine a greater margin of error.

I got the regular AM layup, since I don't hit big jumps. I went with that plus DT Swiss 240 straightpull, 28 spoke, ISO (6 bolt rotor), Shimano hubs, DT Comp spokes, and DT brass nipples. Total weight for my wheels (straight out of box) was 0.76kg front, 0.86kg rear.

I paired them up with Schwalbe Hans Dampf front, Nobby Nic rear (2.35 both), and have been very happy. On my local trail, which has a lot of loose sand & clay chunks over hard clay, the first time I rode it with the wheels I thought someone had groomed it because the grip was so much better (over my old Flow EX & Minion DHF/DHR2 setup). The stiffness is really noticeable cornering too - they just feel way more responsive.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

*cracked Derby - no crash replacement*

Well I cracked a friend's Derby rim so I may be looking at LB 38mm rim since they are half the price and derby will not crash replace it (because I rode it) and will only discount $30 off the closeout 2014 26" rims for him, and not let him swap for another wheelsize either (!) - so much for customer service (guess I've been spoiled by Ibis excellent CS). Disappointing.

Curious what LB warrantee or crash replacement has been for real life cases.

this was the heavier DH layout at 480gr/26" rim as rear tire running on a DH bike at Whistler with 24psi (200lbs) on a fireroad with brake bumps during a high speed turn.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Ouch! At least it stayed together!
I've had a couple buddy's rock-strike (and subsequently crack), a few LB rims.. One was within a couple months of buying the rim, they replaced it for free + 50 something for freight, and even allowed him to bump up to the 35 from the 28 rim he had broken. Pretty rad. 
Other buddy broke his after a year and I believe he got a replacement for 1/2 price or so?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

vokeswaagin said:


> I've had a couple buddy's rock-strike (and subsequently crack), a few LB rims.. One was within a couple months of buying the rim, they replaced it for free + 50 something for freight, and even allowed him to bump up to the 35 from the 28 rim he had broken. Pretty rad.
> Other buddy broke his after a year and I believe he got a replacement for 1/2 price or so?


Thanks, that's good to know. Given LB are half the price to start with, that's very tempting if I go carbon on a DH bike rather than Derby's. My Flow EX have held up for 3 years (only 10-15d/year) just fine without a single ding, also running low pressure tubeless (had burp when too low). Wondering how alu rim would have done (this was not an obvious single hard hit but a high speed fireroad with eventual tire dismount).


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## Jboy71 (Aug 6, 2010)

adumesny said:


> Thanks, that's good to know. Given LB are half the price to start with, that's very tempting if I go carbon on a DH bike rather than Derby's. My Flow EX have held up for 3 years (only 10-15d/year) just fine without a single ding, also running low pressure tubeless (had burp when too low). Wondering how alu rim would have done (this was not an obvious single hard hit but a high speed fireroad with eventual tire dismount).


LB had some durability issues in the beginning when they were only making hooked bead rims. That made people nervous about their products, but it sure seem like they've addressed the issues, especially with the hookless rims. I know they've sold boatloads of the wide rims over the last couple of years, and you just don't hear about people cracking LB's anymore. I'm sure it happens on occasion, as it does for all carbon rims, but I think it's safe to say that they make a decent product. I've had mine for about 7 months (about 50 rocky, steep, loose rides in Northern Utah). Lots of scratches, nicks, and dings from the rocks, but so far they've taken the abuse with flying colors. Bottom line: I'm very impressed with my LB 38's.


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

I've been very happy with how my LB 38s have held up as well. I've had a number of rock strikes due to too low tire pressure which have done no damage, and have put more than a few surface scratches and I've have no issues with the rims.

I am wondering though - how are people getting away with such low pressures? Are you all using 2ply tires? Running 1ply EXO Maxxis tires (DHR2 and Tomahawk), I can't go lower than 25psi in the front because it gets too squirmy and 30psi in the rear because, again it's too squirmy and i start getting rim strikes. I'm riding a 150mm full squish, with properly set up suspension and I weigh 180-185lbs ready to ride. I do ride hard and fast through rock gardens, and despite trying to be smooth I can be a bit clunky at times, so I have someone to blame when I destroy my tires. I'm just surprised when I see people saying they are running sub 25psi - maybe our tire pressure gauges are off? Rock gardens can be mitigated by line choice, but cornering is cornering - you are either going fast enough and leaning hard enough to feel the tires squirm or you are not. Could be tire choice too - maybe Maxxis EXOs just don't have enough meat in the sidewall.

Anyway, just curious. What are your tire choices with these rims? What pressure do you run at? What terrain do you typically ride and how aggressive? Have you run into problems with the tires? (I've killed 2 tires over the summer)


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

jiker said:


> I've been very happy with how my LB 38s have held up as well. I've had a number of rock strikes due to too low tire pressure which have done no damage, and have put more than a few surface scratches and I've have no issues with the rims.
> 
> I am wondering though - how are people getting away with such low pressures? Are you all using 2ply tires? Running 1ply EXO Maxxis tires (DHR2 and Tomahawk), I can't go lower than 25psi in the front because it gets too squirmy and 30psi in the rear because, again it's too squirmy and i start getting rim strikes. I'm riding a 150mm full squish, with properly set up suspension and I weigh 180-185lbs ready to ride. I do ride hard and fast through rock gardens, and despite trying to be smooth I can be a bit clunky at times, so I have someone to blame when I destroy my tires. I'm just surprised when I see people saying they are running sub 25psi - maybe our tire pressure gauges are off? Rock gardens can be mitigated by line choice, but cornering is cornering - you are either going fast enough and leaning hard enough to feel the tires squirm or you are not. Could be tire choice too - maybe Maxxis EXOs just don't have enough meat in the sidewall.
> 
> Anyway, just curious. What are your tire choices with these rims? What pressure do you run at? What terrain do you typically ride and how aggressive? Have you run into problems with the tires? (I've killed 2 tires over the summer)


I run the same pressure, maybe the guys running lower pressures are lighter or not as demanding?

I've ran Maxxis Minion Exos, it's hard to go wrong there, but the Mavic Charge is the best front tire ever imo... went with an Ardent Exo 27.5/2.3 rear tire and I really like this combo, the Ardent is fast-rolling and predictable if not as grippy as a Minion


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

davec113 said:


> I run the same pressure, maybe the guys running lower pressures are lighter or not as demanding?
> 
> I've ran Maxxis Minion Exos, it's hard to go wrong there, but the Mavic Charge is the best front tire ever imo... went with an Ardent Exo 27.5/2.3 rear tire and I really like this combo, the Ardent is fast-rolling and predictable if not as grippy as a Minion


Try Shwalbe tires with Super Gravity casing. Also, you could run a 2.35 front/2.25 rear. Bontrager, or Maxxis DH casing... too.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Wagon650B said:


> Try Shwalbe tires with Super Gravity casing. Also, you could run a 2.35 front/2.25 rear. Bontrager, or Maxxis DH casing... too.


My bike came with the Bonty XR4s, they are ok as a rear tire but the casing is too light. Not great as a front tire with those intermediate knobs.

Maxxis DH weighs about 1400 grams, no thanks.

Schwalbe... f$%k Schwalbe and their $90+ tires. The Mavics are expensive but have sales at deep discounts.

The Mavic Charge is a lightweight dual-ply (1000g) and is absolutely the best front tire for trail use I have ever used, and I've used pretty much all of them.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

I was running 19F/24R (I'm 205# + body armor gear) with CST BFT 2.4 folding single ply tires (about 900gr) and have been using similar pressure before with Conti TK 2.4 (which have a strong apex sidewall protection at 1000gr). Note those 2 are very large volume tire, so more room for rim strike - Maxxis are much smaller. That was an increase from earlier as I could feel sidewall squirm in higher speed burm turns otherwise! But I like super low pressure obviously - main reason to go super wide IMO.

I believe Ibis demo bike with 941 and minion 2.35x29 were sub 20 as well in the front and felt great - but Santa Cruz terrain is smooth. Northstar and Whistler (where I ride the DH with low pressure as well) - pretty rocky...


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I running 2.35 bontrager xr4 front and 2.35 xr3 rear on my 38 dh layup, set at about 27 psi front and 29-30 psi rear for full gear up at 190pounds. As wide as these tires are, a little over 2.5", I do get rock strike ocassionally.


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

ckspeed said:


> I running 2.35 bontrager xr4 front and 2.35 xr3 rear on my 38 dh layup, set at about 27 psi front and 29-30 psi rear for full gear up at 190pounds. As wide as these tires are, a little over 2.5", I do get rock strike ocassionally.


Try their new SE series tires, SE4, SE5...


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

1) 2.35 Hans Dampf SS front, 2.35 Nobby Nic (2015) SS rear
2) 20 psi front, 22 psi rear (I weigh 155 without gear, add another 10-15 for that)
3) Bay Area - a bit of everything, but mostly dirt (current conditions often loose over hard). Probably "moderate" on the aggressive scale.
4) no problems with tire durability historically, but have hated specific tires for specific reasons (Kenda Small Block for awful traction, Maxxis HR2 for terrible cornering)

Edit: you don't need to pay $90+ for Schwalbes if you hunt around... I got mine for like $65/EA online from Dirt Merchant in WA. Same price as I'd pay for Maxxis.


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## Jboy71 (Aug 6, 2010)

jiker said:


> I've been very happy with how my LB 38s have held up as well. I've had a number of rock strikes due to too low tire pressure which have done no damage, and have put more than a few surface scratches and I've have no issues with the rims.
> 
> I am wondering though - how are people getting away with such low pressures? Are you all using 2ply tires? Running 1ply EXO Maxxis tires (DHR2 and Tomahawk), I can't go lower than 25psi in the front because it gets too squirmy and 30psi in the rear because, again it's too squirmy and i start getting rim strikes. I'm riding a 150mm full squish, with properly set up suspension and I weigh 180-185lbs ready to ride. I do ride hard and fast through rock gardens, and despite trying to be smooth I can be a bit clunky at times, so I have someone to blame when I destroy my tires. I'm just surprised when I see people saying they are running sub 25psi - maybe our tire pressure gauges are off? Rock gardens can be mitigated by line choice, but cornering is cornering - you are either going fast enough and leaning hard enough to feel the tires squirm or you are not. Could be tire choice too - maybe Maxxis EXOs just don't have enough meat in the sidewall.
> 
> Anyway, just curious. What are your tire choices with these rims? What pressure do you run at? What terrain do you typically ride and how aggressive? Have you run into problems with the tires? (I've killed 2 tires over the summer)


I've been running Maxxis EXO (Minion front, HRII rear). I've found the HRII gets squirmy if I let the pressure get too low. I think a heavier 2-ply would help, but I'd rather save the weight and just run a bit higher pressure. 2-plys are heavy and I spend too much time climbing!!! Personally I think the "low pressure on the wides" thing is overblown (no pun intended). For some types of trail riding I can see how you could get away with lower pressures, but for steep, fast, rock surfing, 1 or 2 PSI is about it. IMO the real benefit of wide carbon rims is being able to run a big high volume tire while keeping the weight low at the same time.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Andeh said:


> 1) 2.35 Hans Dampf SS front, 2.35 Nobby Nic (2015) SS rear


Watch the side knobbies on the HDampf. Mine started tearing off after about a dozen rides. Otherwise a great tire, but once I couldn't trust it in the corners, it had to come off.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

alshead said:


> Watch the side knobbies on the HDampf. Mine started tearing off after about a dozen rides. Otherwise a great tire, but once I couldn't trust it in the corners, it had to come off.


Yup. Hans Dampfs are OK tires when new, but suck after 2 weeks with all the side knobs torn off. Minion DHF, Specialized Butcher and Magic Mary are all far better front tires (I'll see how the Magic Mary side knobs hold up). The HansD is a poor rear tire - rolls slow _and_ brakes poorly. Specialized Purgatory is better in every regard as a rear. I hear the DHRII is good too if you need more aggro/wet conditions than Purg, but I haven't tried it yet.

Anyone else having issues with the Pillar nipples blowing off of the light-bicycle factory wheel builds? I've blown off two rear drive-side in the last 2 months. Rims are handling abuse quite nicely, I'm impressed over all. I'm a biggish guy riding aggressively

I'd never run expensive rims at Whistler. That place will kill any and all rims, especially on pinchflat alley near the bottom of A-Line. Even running burly old Mavic 729s or Mag 30's I'd only get 20-30 days before a rear rim was mutiliated at Whistler. Gotta get back up there, miss that place.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

this is turning into a what tire thread, rather than LB rims. There are other good thread on tire/wide rim combo like:

http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ibis-741-941-rim-tire-combos-936005.html


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

juice said:


> ...I'd never run expensive rims at Whistler. That place will kill any and all rims, especially on pinchflat alley near the bottom of A-Line.


bingo - that must be the place (high speed fireroad with a bottom right bank turn near the finish of A line).

My Flow EX + Trail King 2.4 are doing fine after 3 years there (about 20 day - not 1 ding), but only 3.5 days on Derby + BFT 2.4 tire (similar low pressure). Could have been the tire as it came undone after a very loud pop (5 side cuts from rolling undone for a while).



juice said:


> Even running burly old Mavic 729s or Mag 30's I'd only get 20-30 days before a rear rim was mutiliated at Whistler. Gotta get back up there, miss that place.


It's a lot of fun, but hard to gear as you say.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I'm aware of the durability concerns for Schwalbes, but thought I'd give them a shot since they were on sale and reported to be very nice while they last. After 3 rides and 50 miles, they're holding up fine. The only wear I see is some scuffs on the sidewalls from rock gardens.

My brother wants to buy my old Flow EXs, which on one hand I'd love to get some cash for, but on the other, I kind of would like to keep them around to swap on if I go to Northstar or some other DH park. But I guess I could sell the old wheels, just rent a bike, and not worry about destroying my own. 

I did ride with a guy who had a bad experience with LB's customer service after breaking one of the old style rims in <1 year. The way I see it, I got some super cheap carbon rims with excellent hubs. If I break one, I'll try and get the rim replaced, and if they give me a hard time, I'm not out a ton of dough for the rim, so I'll buy some Ibis/Derby/Nox rims and have a wheelbuilder lace them up for me with these hubs and consider it a lesson learned. If I don't break them, well, then I got great wheels for 50% less than, say, 741s.

I was pretty wary about those Pillar nipples. Not only are they alloy (reported to be more brittle), but it's a brand that none of the US wheelbuilders I was considering used. Likewise, I went with straightpull hubs since I figured it would be less likely for them to mess up the spokes. Since the DT240 SP is only a 28 spoke hub, that really pushed me towards using the strongest nipples possible (DT brass). But I'm not a wheelbuilder, so was mostly just going off internet comments I'd read and my gut.


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## jcmonty (Apr 11, 2015)

Andeh said:


> I'm aware of the durability concerns for Schwalbes, but thought I'd give them a shot since they were on sale and reported to be very nice while they last. After 3 rides and 50 miles, they're holding up fine. The only wear I see is some scuffs on the sidewalls from rock gardens.
> 
> My brother wants to buy my old Flow EXs, which on one hand I'd love to get some cash for, but on the other, I kind of would like to keep them around to swap on if I go to Northstar or some other DH park. But I guess I could sell the old wheels, just rent a bike, and not worry about destroying my own.
> 
> ...


I Am not seeing the dt Swiss 240 option on the LB build site. Did you get those separately?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

jcmonty said:


> I Am not seeing the dt Swiss 240 option on the LB build site. Did you get those separately?


It's not on the site, but they can build ones with DT hubs now. Click on the link to email them, and tell them what you're looking for (be very specific as to spoke count, rotor type, Shimano vs. SRAM, etc.). They'll generate a quote for you, then you click the link on their site to pay and reference the quote number, so they know what to build.


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

FYI, a friend just ordered a set with DT Swiss 240 hubs from them. They neglected to tell him that it would take over 6 weeks to deliver his set of wheels with those hubs. Probably worth the wait but hope that helps you decide...


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I had something similar happen, but it worked out ok. I placed the order on Jun 29, quoted 3 weeks build time + 5-7 days shipping. Then shortly after was told there would be a 15 day delay. I actually ended up getting them on Aug 1, so basically right on the original estimate. I don't know if their expected delay was due to backlog or them waiting on my special hubs (DT 240S straight pull ISO Shimano is not an off-the-shelf model, so must have been custom ordered from DT).

Some photos of the wheels, with tires, and clearance an my HDR.


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## Mishtar (Jun 3, 2011)

Deleting this for now as they sent me an email this morning and it looks like they may be finally solving my issue.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

A guy I rode with ("skyno" on MTBR) had a similar experience. He said he broke one of the old style rims, which he had built by them (inc. hubs). He contacted them, took a while for a response, they wanted him to send in the whole broken wheel (inc. hub, spokes, etc.) for them to rebuild. He did, and a lot of time passed with no info. Kept hounding them getting more upset, requested that they send his stuff back if they weren't going to do anything. About a week later he got his box back, which had never been opened. Total time was several months.

I found this out after I ordered, but have also heard others have good experiences. Like I said a few posts back, if I manage to break them, I'll try to get just the rim replaced (keep the hubs), and have the wheel rebuilt by a US wheelbuilder with a name-brand US rim with a known good warranty, and sell/keep the replacement as a backup.


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## Mishtar (Jun 3, 2011)

Are there any US company's making affordable Carbon Rims?


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## jiker (Jul 2, 2004)

Mishtar said:


> Are there any US company's making affordable Carbon Rims?


Carbon is very labor intensive - The only US companies *making* rims are Enve and maybe one or 2 others and they are crazy expensive, but you get great service and a great US-made product. There are US companies that design the rim but then use overseas manufacturing to keep costs reasonable (Derby, Nox, Atomic I think? and others) - they are about half the cost of US-made rims, but you typically get the better service. Light Bicycle, Nextie, and a few others encompass the affordable end of the spectrum, and their products have become much better over the years - comparable in quality to much more expensive rims, but the service is mixed and the wait times can be excessive with shipping, but at less than a quarter of the price of US-made rims and half the price of the US-designed rims.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Anybody managed to blow up a 38mm LB rim yet?


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## jcmonty (Apr 11, 2015)

Whelp, just placed an order for the 38mm with DT Swiss 240s, DH layup, 28H. Looking forward to them! The hubs had a 2 week delay, but I am not in a huge rush and I think it meets any deadlines I have.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

Just ordered a set with Hope pro 2 evo hubs. Any options on decals? Also, any issues with truing with alloy nipples?

All Mountain matte 3K 32H 
Hope 40T PRO 2 EVO Black 110mm 20mm 32H 
Hope 40T PRO 2 EVO Black 142mm 12mm 32H Shimano 10S 
Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420 black 
Pillar nipple PT 734 Red 
Without Decal


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

Porch said:


> Anybody managed to blow up a 38mm LB rim yet?


"blow up"? 
As in "break a rim"?

Yes, I cracked my 6 week old 650 LB rim recently. They sent me a free replacement immediately - only downsides are the 3 week wait and having to pay the $50 shipping.

Was likely my fault. I was running 22 psi through a nasty rock garden.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

22psi+rock garden+high speeds=bad combo for any wheel. I usually air up at the jump park/ extreme trails. It is great that lgt-bike stood behind their warranty.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

james12345pt said:


> 22psi+rock garden+high speeds=bad combo for any wheel. I usually air up at the jump park/ extreme trails. It is great that lgt-bike stood behind their warranty.


Agreed. I take the blame for this one and I am satisfied with how they handled it.

At $200/rim, I bought a spare for backup. Several of us are on that rim, so someone will use it eventually and still cheaper than any other carbon options I am aware of.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> Yes, I cracked my 6 week old 650 LB rim recently. They sent me a free replacement immediately - only downsides are the 3 week wait and having to pay the $50 shipping. Was likely my fault. I was running 22 psi through a nasty rock garden.


$50 is a lot of a heck better than $215+tax Derby would charge for a crash replacement - which has no further warranty (assuming it was a rock rim crack you seem to imply and not a build defect - how did it break and do you have a pic ?).

Heck with the LB rims being half or less what other cost, you could get a spare one - or just have a spare ALU rim for the wait.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

adumesny said:


> $50 is a lot of a heck better than $215+tax Derby would charge for a crash replacement - which has no further warranty (assuming it was a rock rim crack you seem to imply and not a build defect - how did it break and do you have a pic ?).
> 
> Heck with the LB rims being half or less what other cost, you could get a spare one - or just have a spare ALU rim for the wait.


That's exactly what I did. See my post above #443. In fact, my buddy took the opportunity to also order a spare, so now we have 2 spares floating around.

I smashed it into a square edge rock at high speed. I take the blame.


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## jcmonty (Apr 11, 2015)

Anyone have experience running the conti tk 2.4 and mk2 2.4 on the 38s? That's what I am planning on running at first unless those tires don't match well when wide. They have nice stiff sidewalks that I have never had puncture issues with on my current set of rims.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> I smashed it into a square edge rock at high speed. I take the blame.


It doesn't look like a hard hit on the bead - you barely have a crack there (no chipping) and there is no tire puncture either (pinch flat) - I would expect more bead damage.
by comparison here the Derby I recently cracked


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

adumesny said:


> It doesn't look like a hard hit on the bead - you barely have a crack there (no chipping) and there is no tire puncture either (pinch flat) - I would expect more bead damage.
> by comparison here the Derby I recently cracked


I don't have a picture of the bead - but mine looked fairly similar as yours, but not quite as extensive. I saw no damage on the tire.

I knew immediately when it happened. I heard the dreaded "thunk" and lost tire pressure.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

jcmonty said:


> Anyone have experience running the conti tk 2.4 and mk2 2.4 on the 38s? That's what I am planning on running at first unless those tires don't match well when wide. They have nice stiff sidewalks that I have never had puncture issues with on my current set of rims.


There is a long tire thread on super wide rims on Ibis site you may want to read - http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ibis-741-941-rim-tire-combos-936005.html

the 'short' answer for me - my fav tires are the Conti TK 2.2 (trail) and 2.4 (DH park bike) running tubeless and low pressure (Flow and FlowEx respectively) been running for years. 40/34mm ID rim I tried didn't work well on the TK 2.2 - sidewalls really stick out past the knobs and flatten the head way too much, and are OK on the 2.4 but still not the best (sidewall still stick out past knobs possibly exposing weak part of sidewall and rim strike). Minions 2.35 (on Ripley I demoed with 941) and BFT 2.4 have a much better round profile on those wide rims. I'm going less wide on Trail bike (LB is coming with 34/28 soon) and undecided on DH bike where I run big 2.4/2.5 tires...


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> I knew immediately when it happened. I heard the dreaded "thunk" and lost tire pressure.


Still not sure what happened to me - heard a very loud pop (much louder than a burp I've had before) while *flying * through a fire road with no big rocks (small rocks, brake bumps, potholes like features), and tire came undone right afterward so rim ran bare for a while and might have cracked then. 4 big sidewall cuts all on the intact side of the rim (presume tire stayed seated there longer and cut the unsupported sidewalls).

*Squeaky Wheel*: was the "thunk" a higher pitch sound (what I suspect carbon cracking might do ?) or a low tone like a tire explosion (loud pop I heard and suspect). trying to figure what I heard as it wasn't an obvious rock hit for me.


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## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

Funny I had one blow up last weekend. I hit nothing heard a loud pop, then instant flat tire. Inspected for impact, found nothing. Lb is sending me a warranty replacement and I ordered an additional spare. 

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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

rollertoaster said:


> I hit nothing heard a loud pop, then instant flat tire. Inspected for impact, found nothing. Lb is sending me a warranty replacement.


Did the sidewall just cracked then (but not the bead ?)

Had same experience on friend's rim but my tire didn't stay on so rim got further destroyed rolling bare until i was able to stop. Hard to see what happened in the carnage.

Good to hear LB just warrantied it. Derby didn't even crash replace ($200+) my friend's rim.


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## Bermzilla (Mar 12, 2015)

For you 29er guys. Would you go with 30mm LB wheels or 41mm Ibis wheels?


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

I have the LB 38mm rims, Anybody having issues getting tires OFF? I am running Ikon 27.5 x 2.35's. They were the toughest tubeless tires i've had to put on but it wasn't bad. They aired up with a floor pump and made an audible SNAP when the bead maid it over the hump but now I literally cannot get either tire off. they are so tight I'm either going to ruin a tire or rim trying. Anybody have any tricks?


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## whiteox (Aug 11, 2009)

Rivet, I have the 26" 38mm with maxxis tyres although they are DHR2 and shorty (2.3's). Are you having trouble getting the bead back over the hump and into the well? I've found that the valve will stop the beads sitting into the well fully so I lever the tyre off at the valve first. Once a small bit is levered I can pull them off by hand. But I agree they are tight, which is a good thing for tyre security when out the trails.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

*26" 38mm or 33mm width ?*

Im looking at a 26" wheel build,the tyres im using now are 2.4 and 2.25 front and rear and wondering if the 38mm will be too wide!
Im around 150-155 lbs ready to ride and running mid to low 20 psi in the 21 mm inner width wheels i have now.
I see that they can do the rims in UST as well,is it worth while getting the UST set up or just stick to rim tape for tubeless?


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

Rivet said:


> I have the LB 38mm rims, Anybody having issues getting tires OFF? I am running Ikon 27.5 x 2.35's. They were the toughest tubeless tires i've had to put on but it wasn't bad. They aired up with a floor pump and made an audible SNAP when the bead maid it over the hump but now I literally cannot get either tire off. they are so tight I'm either going to ruin a tire or rim trying. Anybody have any tricks?


Yes. I have only removed a tire from these rims twice and I could not believe how hard it was. But after wrestling with them, I think it is a technique issue that can be learned. I could not get a tire lever under the bead. I ended up turning the tire lever around so the end curved down toward the rim, rather than up. I managed to press the bead up over the lip on the bead seat. As soon as it started in one spot, the entire thing went with just my fingers. Another thing I noticed after I removed the tire was that the rim tape was just wide enough so the edge of the tape was right in the way of the tire bead. I was not only fighting to get over the lip on the bead seat, but the tire was being hindered by the tape itself. Once the tire was off, I could see that the tape had slid sideways several millimeters. I had to peel it off and reapply. I am looking for an alternative. Perhaps a narrower rim tape.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

So, during my initial setup of my wheels, I accidentally put the tire I intended to go on the back on my front wheel, and had to remove it (after I'd already dry pressurized it to seat the bead). I struggled a lot also, before finally finding a trick that let me get it off without too much difficulty. Depressurize it, then push the tire beads into the lower center channel. Once there, it will give you a bit more slack to allow you to get the tire lever under the bead and pop it off on one side. Once you get it partially off, its easy.

FWIW, I used the blue Scotch 8896 tape that has been recommended on MTBR, 24mm wide, which came slighly out of the center channel but not all the way to the rims.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Andeh said:


> So, during my initial setup of my wheels, I accidentally put the tire I intended to go on the back on my front wheel, and had to remove it (after I'd already dry pressurized it to seat the bead). I struggled a lot also, before finally finding a trick that let me get it off without too much difficulty. Depressurize it, then push the tire beads into the lower center channel. Once there, it will give you a bit more slack to allow you to get the tire lever under the bead and pop it off on one side. Once you get it partially off, its easy.
> 
> FWIW, I used the blue Scotch 8896 tape that has been recommended on MTBR, *55mm wide*, which came slighly out of the center channel but not all the way to the rims.


Pretty much standard operating procedure on many tire wheel combos. I assume you 55mm comment was an error? Maybe 15mm? I'm dropping my 38mm LB hoops and Hope Hubs off at the builder today. I was planning on 16mm Orangeseal tape. Measuring that appears it would just come out of the dip in the rim.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

Joss002 said:


> Im looking at a 26" wheel build,the tyres im using now are 2.4 and 2.25 front and rear and wondering if the 38mm will be too wide!


A few people have written that they think 2.25" is a bit narrow for the 38mm rim. Some tires will retain a rounded profile, while others will square off. And some will end up with the sidewall sticking out further than the shoulder knobs. I think it depends on the specific tire. I am running 2.25" On-One Smorgasbord tires and really liking them.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Pretty much standard operating procedure on many tire wheel combos. I assume you 55mm comment was an error? Maybe 15mm? I'm dropping my 38mm LB hoops and Hope Hubs off at the builder today. I was planning on 16mm Orangeseal tape. Measuring that appears it would just come out of the dip in the rim.


Doh, you're right. I typo'd it when looking at the Amazon description... 24mm wide x 55m long.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I don't get why some of you have so much problem installing, seating, and removing the tires of the 38mm rims. I have no problem at all with the Bontrager Team Issue XR3 & XR4 in 26 x 2.35. I don't know, maybe because these were use in another wheelset before. I have to removed the rear tire to adjust the spoke tension to 130+ with the CX Ray because the rear wheel feel loose. Now it's gooooooood.

I used both the orange seal in 18mm wide for the first layer than the blue Scotch 8896 tape 24mm wide. It works out great.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

j0hn said:


> A few people have written that they think 2.25" is a bit narrow for the 38mm rim. Some tires will retain a rounded profile, while others will square off. And some will end up with the sidewall sticking out further than the shoulder knobs. I think it depends on the specific tire. I am running 2.25" On-One Smorgasbord tires and really liking them.


Thanks j0hn.

Just got a reply from Light Bicycle after sending them my details and they recommended the 33mm.
I have the Smorgasbord on the back and the Chunky Monkey at the front.Cant see me going/needing wider than 2.3 and 2.4 for my riding so think I'll go for the 33's.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Some said LB have the 34 wide with 28 internal width asymetric rims available but not on there site yet. Maybe you should ask LB about this too. this will probably be perfect for your 2.25 tire.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

ckspeed said:


> Some said LB have the 34 wide with 28 internal width asymetric rims available but not on there site yet. Maybe you should ask LB about this too. this will probably be perfect for your 2.25 tire.


I'll email them tomorrow and ask about that,thanks .

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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

j0hn said:


> Y...I was not only fighting to get over the lip on the bead seat, but the tire was being hindered by the tape itself. Once the tire was off, I could see that the tape had slid sideways several millimeters. I had to peel it off and reapply. I am looking for an alternative. Perhaps a narrower rim tape.


some wide rim maker recommend a tape that's 18mm to sit inside the grove instead of the entire width. That's what was on a 40mm, then again tire came off during some high speed turn and destroyed the rim so having it tight is not a bad thing


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

Joss002 said:


> Thanks j0hn.
> 
> Just got a reply from Light Bicycle after sending them my details and they recommended the 33mm.
> I have the Smorgasbord on the back and the Chunky Monkey at the front.Cant see me going/needing wider than 2.3 and 2.4 for my riding so think I'll go for the 33's.


yep, that's the size I'm thinking as well for my Trail bike with Conti TK 2.2 (doesn't work on 40mm rims I tried so well). Waiting for the new asymmetrical 34/28mm 650b as I can run 650b front, but the 26" 33mm rear would match pretty well.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

ckspeed said:


> Some said LB have the 34 wide with 28 internal width asymetric rims available but not on there site yet. Maybe you should ask LB about this too. this will probably be perfect for your 2.25 tire.


Last I checked (I originally posted the spec on this thread a month+ back) they are only 650b & 29" - they may do a 26" (if enough demand ?) which would be great as I can't do 650 on the back without loosing too much travel so 26" rear for me...


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

adumesny said:


> some wide rim maker recommend a tape that's 18mm to sit inside the grove instead of the entire width. That's what was on a 40mm, then again tire came off during some high speed turn and destroyed the rim so having it tight is not a bad thing


I'm currently running Velox rim tape. It's 16mm wide and I think that's too wide. The edge of the tape sits just below the lip of the bead seat. I'm thinking of trying something narrower. Yes, I'm running tubes. I hope I did not just lose any clout I may have had on this forum


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

tubes, what are those ? 
oh yeah, those things I carry as a spare in case the sealant doesn't auto-solves the issue on the trail... 

so 16m is still too wide on LB 38mm ? 
here is the recommendation to run 18mm tape for grove only coverage for 40mm rims - which is pretty close I would think... maybe not. Technical


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## Rivet (Sep 3, 2004)

So it turns out my tire removal issue was because of the Gorilla tape, it's just too thick. Went with two layers of Tyvek tape and all is good. Getting the tires off was a two person wrestling match.


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

adumesny said:


> Last I checked (I originally posted the spec on this thread a month+ back) they are only 650b & 29" - they may do a 26" (if enough demand ?) which would be great as I can't do 650 on the back without loosing too much travel so 26" rear for me...
> 
> View attachment 1009137


I don't see this on LB's Carbon MTB pages, where are you finding it?


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

ckspeed said:


> Some said LB have the 34 wide with 28 internal width asymetric rims available but not on there site yet. Maybe you should ask LB about this too. this will probably be perfect for your 2.25 tire.


Just emailed them and here's the reply I got 5 minutes later...
"Hi Steven,
Currently, we only have 34mm wide 650B & 29er asymmetric rim, no 26er. We will discuss with our engineer and will let you know once we have a plan to manufacture it. But it will be at least 2 months later"

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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

I've never had an issue mounting or unmounting tires BY HAND on my 38s.. It's all technique. 
I'm also using one layer of stans tape, cut down in width to cover the holes but not exceed the width of the center channel of the rim.. Think I cut it down to around 15mm. 
First go around I just used 24mm tape and the tire would peel it back when dismounting. 


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

randyharris said:


> I don't see this on LB's Carbon MTB pages, where are you finding it?


read my previous posts - it's an upcoming rim which I believe is in production now (or soon). We might want to start a new thread when it does


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

adumesny said:


> so 16m is still too wide on LB 38mm ?
> here is the recommendation to run 18mm tape for grove only coverage for 40mm rims - which is pretty close I would think... maybe not. Technical


Well, it fits on the rim fine. The problem I've been having is similar to what vokeswaagin describes in post #474. The Velox tape is kinda thick and the edge of it sits just inside the lip of the bead seat. So as the tire slides up and over the lip, it catches on the edge of the tape. Once I finally got the tire loose, I could see that I had caused the tape to slide sideways a few millimeters. That takes a lot of force and explains why I had to wrestle so hard with it. And then I had to reapply the tape before I could install the tire. So I'm thinking of trying a narrower tape. I just need to make sure it still covers the spoke holes securely.


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## illflipya (Jun 30, 2015)

adumesny said:


> read my previous posts - it's an upcoming rim which I believe is in production now (or soon). We might want to start a new thread when it does


My 29er 34mm asymetric's from LB shipped on the 12th. due here any day now.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

j0hn said:


> A few people have written that they think 2.25" is a bit narrow for the 38mm rim. Some tires will retain a rounded profile, while others will square off. And some will end up with the sidewall sticking out further than the shoulder knobs. I think it depends on the specific tire. I am running 2.25" On-One Smorgasbord tires and really liking them.


j0hn have you had any problems with the On-One Smorgasbord tires?.The reason I ask is I emailed On-One asking if the tires will be ok on a beadless rim and heres the reply....

"Hi Steve
Thank you for your email.While the tyres are tubeless ready they are for tubeless conversion and i'm afraid cannot be ran on dedicated tubeless rims.
My apologies 
Kind regards,Robert."

Kinda strange !!!


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

I don't think he understood the question. 
You asked about beadless, but he replied about tubeless.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

I, and my friend, have run tubeless Smorgasbord tires on Enve & LB rims.

Zero problems to report


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

Joss002 said:


> j0hn have you had any problems with the On-One Smorgasbord tires?.The reason I ask is I emailed On-One asking if the tires will be ok on a beadless rim and heres the reply....


No problems with the Smorgasbord tires, but I am running tubes. I expect they will work fine tubeless as well, but I have not done it.

Just to be clear, these rims aren't beadless. The bead is part of the tire. The rims do not have a bead HOOK; they are hookless. I think you know the difference, but wanted to be clear.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Let's be a little clearer.
Rims have a bead, that bead no longer has a hook.
"•Hookless bead rims are far stronger"
From the Ibis website description of their wide rim wheels.
http://www.ibiscycles.com/wheels/
No one(except Nino) is using a tubular tire/rim wheel which usually does not have a bead on the tire or rim.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

Yeah I could have worded the email better I guess !! lol,thought it was a strange reply.

I was talking to a friend last night about the "hookless" (lol) LB wheels the look on his face was :eekster: ,then remembering the SkywayTuff II wheels we had back in the 80s on our BMX being hookless and never being as issue,and we did some crazy stuff back then.
Kinda strange the hookless bead is coming back or why it went away!.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

eb1888 said:


> Let's be a little clearer.
> Rims have a bead, that bead no longer has a hook.
> "•Hookless bead rims are far stronger"


OK, thanks for the clarification. I have never referred to the sidewall as a bead, but I stand corrected.



Joss002 said:


> I was talking to a friend last night about the "hookless" (lol) LB wheels the look on his face was :eekster:


Yeah, when I first started hearing about hookless, my gut reaction was the same. I have seen tires blow off Skyway Tuff wheels, but I suspect the tolerances between tires and wheels was not as good back then.


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## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

adumesny said:


> Did the sidewall just cracked then (but not the bead ?)
> 
> Had same experience on friend's rim but my tire didn't stay on so rim got further destroyed rolling bare until i was able to stop. Hard to see what happened in the carnage.
> 
> Good to hear LB just warrantied it. Derby didn't even crash replace ($200+) my friend's rim.


Yeah it appears the sidewall just violently de-laminated. There was a little bit of damage to the bead and spoke bed as a result

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## happymedium (Sep 29, 2007)

I have a question for those who are "blowing up" carbon rims with hookless beads. Is it almost always the rear?

I'm intrerested in building up some relatively low-cost wide carbon wheels and I'm assuming the carbon front won't be a big risk. The 38mm hookless LB rim for 650B looks light a nice design but I'm intrigued by the asymmetric models I see popping up. I noticed a Nextie Wildcat NXT650BWC model with a 3.5mm lateral spoke offset, other than that it seems very similar to one from LB. If LB is starting to introduce any asymmetric rims w/ offset, I would like to check those out, as I can't find any reports on the Nextie's, perhaps they're very new.

I'm undecided on the rear though, a bit worried about toughness. With the new asymmetrical wide aluminum rims coming out from WTB, I was contemplating the WTB Asym i29 rim as an option for the rear only. It's a bit narrower than the above rims, but still pretty wide and I don't mind the front being a bit wider as I expect to run less pressure in front and could use the extra traction and stability on the tire up front. Every time I can ever remember bottoming out in a rock garden, it was on the rear. I think the aluminum rear will give me a bit more peace of mind going through rock gardens, although I'm sure it can be damaged too, but less likely something catastrohpic.

I'll try to get more info on the LB asymmetric, if anyone has specs or drawings on this, could you please post it?

Thanks.


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## happymedium (Sep 29, 2007)

Sorry, I just saw the posts a page or two back with info on a 34mm LB asymmetric rim with 2.5mm spoke offset, for 650B and 29". I will wait to see some more info when LB gets them on their website presumably in the near future.


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

happymedium said:


> I'll try to get more info on the LB asymmetric, if anyone has specs or drawings on this, could you please post it?


Did you look couple post up by me ? they are not on their website yet but selling them and some people have received them already.

New Light Bicycle 38mm rims? - Page 15- Mtbr.com

and yes rear carbon has seen the majority of breaks it seems. Using ALU rear is not a bad idea. The low pressure is mostly for the front so going wide and light makes more sense, and cheaper if you crack your rear like I did.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

New Hope Pro 4 hubs out in January !! ,I might have to wait to order my wheels  lol

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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

What is the recommended spoke tension for front and rear?


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

rave81 said:


> What is the recommended spoke tension for front and rear?


120kgf on the higher tension side of the wheel is plenty


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## aevanlloyd (Oct 3, 2008)

Anyone else having a hard time accessing the LB website?


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

adumesny said:


> If you are willing to wait another month, LB is coming out with a more rounded (model RM650BC17) size that is in between the 2 width above at 34/28ID and but still deep at 28mm but asymetrical (2.6mm offset). 24mm isn't wider than most rims now, and like others said 38/32ID you need to be careful about tire choice.
> 
> View attachment 1000629
> 
> ...


Anyone know the ERD of this 34/28mm RM650BC17 rim, in 650b?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

To those who order from lb with dt Swiss 240. Do you know if the 36 star in the rear hub is included?

Is it really noticeable if you installed the 36 star on the rear hub?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

No, they come with the 18 tooth ratchet. I immediately put on the 36, so can't speak to how noticeable. I do think I'll try one of the Bontrager 54t when I wear this out though, as there's still a tiny bit of engagement gap that I notice.


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## illflipya (Jun 30, 2015)

rfxc said:


> Anyone know the ERD of this 34/28mm RM650BC17 rim, in 650b?


My LB 29er 34/28 asymetric arrived Wed. Confirmation email for a change I made 7/30, shipped on 8/22, arrived 09/02 Texas.

Was told build is about 12 days, more like 21, took 10 days to ship.

430gm +/-15, Both actual at LBS was 440gm. Getting set up on some I9's, ready early next week. Pleased they are on the heavier side rather lighter. Will report back my experiences


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I'm ordering complete wheelset at lb which huh is better. Hope or the dt Swiss 240?


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## OrenPerets (May 1, 2006)

rave81 said:


> To those who order from lb with dt Swiss 240. Do you know if the 36 star in the rear hub is included?
> 
> Is it really noticeable if you installed the 36 star on the rear hub?


Yes, it is very noticeable when you need to ratchet your crank in the tech stuff.
running the 36T after three years on 18T... Would not go back.

Oren

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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

R


OrenPerets said:


> Yes, it is very noticeable when you need to ratchet your crank in the tech stuff.
> running the 36T after three years on 18T... Would not go back.
> 
> Oren
> ...


I ordered the 54T I'll change it once I receive my new wheels .

what is the recommended spoke tension for all mountain/enduro use?


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## dischucker (Apr 9, 2008)

I couldn't find the new 34/28mm rims on the LB site yet. Are they taking orders by email or did I not look hard enough?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

dischucker said:


> I couldn't find the new 34/28mm rims on the LB site yet. Are they taking orders by email or did I not look hard enough?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Either email or chat if you want custom built


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Anyone knows what is the length of th straight pull spoke and nipple that lb uses to build their wheelset?

Also which online ship sells it?


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## dischucker (Apr 9, 2008)

rave81 said:


> Anyone knows what is the length of th straight pull spoke and nipple that lb uses to build their wheelset?
> 
> Also which online ship sells it?


Spoke length will depend on the specific rim, hub, spoke number & lacing pattern. As LB sells about a dozen different rim sizes, over 20 hub types and offers various spoke counts, there is no one answer. Read up in this forum on spoke length calculators and where to buy the bits.

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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

dischucker said:


> I couldn't find the new 34/28mm rims on the LB site yet. Are they taking orders by email or did I not look hard enough?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I emailed them a couple of weeks ago about these in 26" rims and heres the reply I got

"Hi Steven,
Currently, we only have 34mm wide 650B & 29er asymmetric rim, no 26er. We will discuss with our engineer and will let you know once we have a plan to manufacture it. But it will be at least 2 months later"

Email them,the more requests they get might just speed up the production :thumbsup: lol.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

rave81 said:


> I'm ordering complete wheelset at lb which huh is better. Hope or the dt Swiss 240?


dt but a bit more expensive.I have a set of each and the dts are lighter and seal better, i would have gone that way if they offered that at the time


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Hey,

Can anyone chime in with spoke lengths they used with the offset 29er rim?

I'm ready to pull a trigger on a set with 32 hole drilled for internal nipples. I'm planning on getting the bladed Pillar spokes and hard anodized nipples directly from LB so I need to figure out my spoke lengths prior to order.

I'm lacing up CK ISO front and rear and I'm getting 282mm and 281mm lengths on leonard.io spoke calculator. Last time I added 10mm to the calculated lengths to go internal and it worked out well.

Thanks.

_MK


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Just for the giggity of it all...got my LB 38mm carbon wheels back from the builder today. Me likey!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

^that things looks like it is ready to tear some sh!t up!


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

I had an incident where a tire blew off the rim.

My friend drove to the trailhead and did not bring his floor pump, so I added air by feel and probably added too much although there's no way there was more than mid 30 psi or so in the front tire. 

We climbed up to 12500 ft and took a break at the top, my bike was just sitting there. The sun was out and it was a warm day relative to the altitude. After 15 minutes or so I walk away to take a leak and hear an explosion that I thought was an avalanche bomb, we were on the Peaks trail on top of the Breckenridge ski area. I come back and find my front tire had halfway blown off the rim. 

The tire was a 27.5" Mavic Crossmax Charge 2.4, rear tire was fine, it was a Maxxis Ardent. The Ardent was overinflated, maybe 40 psi when I'd normally run 30 so the front was probably similarly overinflated, but not by so much it should have been an issue. I put a tube in the tire and it was fine on the way down but I took it off early because I was afraid it might happen again while I'm riding and kill me... 

Has anyone else had a tire blow off one of these rims?


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

I did when I first set them up with a Duro tire. I inflated to 40psi like I normally do with the Stans fluid and that tire came off with a bang! But around 30psi had zero issues.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

I use to inflate to 40psi to seat tires however have since reduced to 30lbs since I find at bead pop usually occurs at high 20's no need to bring pressures up to 40 where risk of blowing off tire are greater. 

I've only blown 1 tire off rim and that was on fat bike entirely different pressure sensitivity.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

I've been running 2 sets of these 38mm rims for about 6 months, ~1500 miles. I have one 29" and one 650b set. No problems and I'm loving them.

For the post directly above... You only need to inflate the tires until the bead seats. Anything more is pointless. Mine popped on a little over 30lbs.


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## niklasdr (Jul 1, 2010)

rusty904 said:


> I used this stuff down the center channel of the rim. Does the trick and $7.99 should get you a lifetime supply! It functions exactly like the Stan's tape but is waaaay cheaper.
> 
> Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8896 Blue 18mm x 55m Pack of 2 Tapes | eBay
> 
> View attachment 986472


Thanks, this picture seems like it makes the point of not getting too wide of a tape, i.e. not wider than 18 mm, in order for the tires not to get stuck on tape sticking up above the middle trough and on top of the bead lock.

Though it seems that this 18mm tape is sold out  Do you guys have an idea of another tape that is good to get? Or maybe you have some spare that I can buy in the Stockholm area?


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## adumesny (Apr 11, 2009)

davec113 said:


> I had an incident where a tire blew off the rim.


I'm not using these rims, but had a similar very loud pop and the tire came undone on a derby carbon rim (40mm wide, hookless as well) but not running very high pressure like you, but rather maybe too low at 24psi (2.4 CST BFT folding tire at 950gr) - unfortunately I was riding at the time so the exposed rim cracked rolling on rocky fire road. To the dumpster and no crash replacement warranty in my case 

Wondering if the hookless design of those rims really are not as good holding the tire beads ? 
never had issues running low pressure on my Flow EX for a few seasons now.

I usually inflate to 30ish to pop, let it sit overnight and drop it down to mid 20s to ride.


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

illflipya said:


> My LB 29er 34/28 asymetric arrived Wed. Confirmation email for a change I made 7/30, shipped on 8/22, arrived 09/02 Texas.
> 
> Was told build is about 12 days, more like 21, took 10 days to ship.
> 
> 430gm +/-15, Both actual at LBS was 440gm. Getting set up on some I9's, ready early next week. Pleased they are on the heavier side rather lighter. Will report back my experiences


any feedback on your build?


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## illflipya (Jun 30, 2015)

yeti575inCA said:


> any feedback on your build?


Just 2 rides in, and have not had a chance to really get after yet in some downhill. some minor drops and some chunk. First impression, love the stiffness and added surface the ardent 2.4 brings relative to the flowex on the front (the whole tread pattern is a tad flatter, less of an arc - brings the tread edge to the surface better) . Very minor rock strikes thus far. These are going to be fantastic rims, if they hold up long term.

FYI, my builder said these were identical to some instore NOX rims without the name.

[email protected] 287 and 48 @ 284 spoke length on the build- I9 hubs.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

illflipya said:


> Just 2 rides in, and have not had a chance to really get after yet in some downhill. some minor drops and some chunk. First impression, love the stiffness and added surface the ardent 2.4 brings relative to the flowex on the front (the whole tread pattern is a tad flatter, less of an arc - brings the tread edge to the surface better) . Very minor rock strikes thus far. These are going to be fantastic rims, if they hold up long term.
> 
> FYI, my builder said these were identical to some instore NOX rims without the name.
> 
> [email protected] 287 and 48 @ 284 spoke length on the build- I9 hubs.


I'm getting some 38mm 27.5 rims for my new Pivot 429 trail 29er. Going to set it up 27.5+ with some 2.8 tires, has anyone put 2.8 tires on the 38mm rims?


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## Shifty Bits (Aug 28, 2009)

dgw7000 said:


> I'm getting some 38mm 27.5 rims for my new Pivot 429 trail 29er. Going to set it up 27.5+ with some 2.8 tires, has anyone put 2.8 tires on the 38mm rims?


That bike has boost spacing... why not go with a 50mm rim if you're going to 27.5+?


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Shifty Bits said:


> That bike has boost spacing... why not go with a 50mm rim if you're going to 27.5+?


Why go with 50mm if the 38mm will work with 2.8 tires. Pivot recommends 40mm rims and 2.8 tires. 3.0 may not clear at rear. Going with the 38mm rim I have more options smaller tires if I want to go that way. Lighter also, I was thinking about the 50mm though.


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

adumesny said:


> I'm not using these rims, but had a similar very loud pop and the tire came undone on a derby carbon rim (40mm wide, hookless as well) but not running very high pressure like you, but rather maybe too low at 24psi (2.4 CST BFT folding tire at 950gr) - unfortunately I was riding at the time so the exposed rim cracked rolling on rocky fire road. To the dumpster and no crash replacement warranty in my case
> 
> Wondering if the hookless design of those rims really are not as good holding the tire beads ?
> never had issues running low pressure on my Flow EX for a few seasons now.
> ...


We have been advocating our Mod Hook rims for this exact reason. Anything over 30 pounds require a hook. Who rides with 30+ pounds?? , many Enduro riders or really aggressive riders like Thomas Vanderham, and Rowan Sorrell. Whenever these riders do jumps or decend very rocky trails, the pressure will be increased in their tires.

We are currently working on a DH Specific rim that is 29mm ID and 40MM OD......that is right 5.5mm Hooked rim. The cavity will have aerospace structural foam to displace impacts and help with damping. We don't just add more layers to create a DH layup......


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Atomik Carbon said:


> We don't just add more layers to create a DH layup.


Are you adding nano tube prepreg layers to this and any of your other rims similar to what Enve is doing?
Sports ? Zyvex Technologies
Arovex® Prepregs ? Zyvex Technologies
BST NANO CARBON
30-40mm ID?


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

DWG Compare internal width to external - the LB 38's are 31.6mm internal (which is awesome for 2.4-2.5" tires, and why I'm here). 2.8" tires will run great on a 31mm internal, if you don't mind the slightly balloon-like properties (akin to running a 2.25"-2.3" tire on a 21mm internal rim)- honestly 27+ works best if given a 40-50mm internal rim, I'd say go with that (as it happens, LB has a 45mm internal width rim!).

I'm now going to spend all kinds of time looking up how efficient and useful running a dedicated carbon vapor deposition setup to try and get aligned CMWNT to include into prepreg layers... that sounds cool in general.

My guess is that atomik is actually running a slightly more elastic (on the bead hook area) layup, that allows it to deform more (survivability is key), instead of adding more material and making it rigid. Both strategies are valid, the 'add more' DH layups will move the force required to hurt the rim up, but doesn't do anything to make it less catastrophic; a hooked layup for DH applications is probably maximally aligned pre-preg sheets so that the hood area can deform on rock impacts without coming apart would be impressive, but that's a time consuming layup and probably requires more R&D to validate that approach than just putting a big fat hookless bump. I suspect the latter will still end up being more prevalent, as most people not on a sponsored budget who are having to run elevated pressures to keep from blowing tires completely off rims are going to consider running aluminum rims (not like a slight weigh difference is a deal breaker when running heavier DH casings).


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

www.innegratech.com......very expensive. Most Chinese rim companies cannot use this because they buy off the shelf Prepreg. Our manufacturer makes their own. This has to be added in the pre preg phase. We`are also experimenting with Graphene.....again, this must be dispersed during the pre preg stage.


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## Atomik Carbon (Jan 4, 2004)

eb1888 said:


> Are you adding nano tube prepreg layers to this and any of your other rims similar to what Enve is doing?
> Sports ? Zyvex Technologies
> Arovex® Prepregs ? Zyvex Technologies
> BST NANO CARBON
> 30-40mm ID?


That is not where ENVE buys their PrePreg.....Mitsubishi Prepreg, it's called Newport. .If you take two companies using the same prepreg the results will be different....Three factors in CF Production is TIME, HEAT and PRESSURE.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

tehllama said:


> DWG Compare internal width to external - the LB 38's are 31.6mm internal (which is awesome for 2.4-2.5" tires, and why I'm here). 2.8" tires will run great on a 31mm internal, if you don't mind the slightly balloon-like properties (akin to running a 2.25"-2.3" tire on a 21mm internal rim)- honestly 27+ works best if given a 40-50mm internal rim, I'd say go with that (as it happens, LB has a 45mm internal width rim!).
> 
> I'm now going to spend all kinds of time looking up how efficient and useful running a dedicated carbon vapor deposition setup to try and get aligned CMWNT to include into prepreg layers... that sounds cool in general.
> 
> My guess is that atomik is actually running a slightly more elastic (on the bead hook area) layup, that allows it to deform more (survivability is key), instead of adding more material and making it rigid. Both strategies are valid, the 'add more' DH layups will move the force required to hurt the rim up, but doesn't do anything to make it less catastrophic; a hooked layup for DH applications is probably maximally aligned pre-preg sheets so that the hood area can deform on rock impacts without coming apart would be impressive, but that's a time consuming layup and probably requires more R&D to validate that approach than just putting a big fat hookless bump. I suspect the latter will still end up being more prevalent, as most people not on a sponsored budget who are having to run elevated pressures to keep from blowing tires completely off rims are going to consider running aluminum rims (not like a slight weigh difference is a deal breaker when running heavier DH casings).


Thanks for your input, the new NOX Kitsuma 275 at 42mm ex and 36 internal may be the perfect rim for me also asymmetric offset should work great with my boost spaced hubs. Derby at 40mm may work, but I want them light. 50mm is just too big for my bike.

I don't see any Enve rims on my trails, but I do like they way they look!!


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## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Looking to have my first wheel build done with LB rims. I will use I9 28h hubs. I read through most of this thread and its info overload! lol

What is the best current 650b rim suggestion for me considering the following....

Bike- Yeti sb6c
Rider weight - 220 without gear
front tires - DHF 2.3 or 2.5's
rear tires - Ardent 2.4 or DHF/DHR2 2.3


What rim should I order this week? Thanks for the input


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

yeti575inCA said:


> What is the best current 650b rim suggestion for me considering the following....
> 
> Bike- Yeti sb6c
> Rider weight - 220 without gear
> ...


Maxxis is bringing out wide trail versions of some tires designed for 35mm ID rims.
First Look: Maxxis DHF & DHR II ?Wide Trail? | Blister Gear Review - Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing, Kayaking

NEW! Hookless 650B(27.5er) mtb 42mm wide AM/FR carbon rims tubeless compatible - carbon rim (hookless) - Carbon Rim | Carbon Wheel | Carbon Bicycle | Carbon Frame | Carbon Bike Par| Mountain bike
Here's one for those new tires.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Based on interbike, the industry totally missed the boat on this by focusing on 27.5+. All we want is normal size aggressive tires with a more rounded profile so they work on 30mm internal rims. Fat bikes or plus bikes are probably cool, but they're a different thing altogether. 

Maybe the new 27.5 x 2.5 minion will fit the bill. Details are scant, no idea if it's rounder. Eager to try them out when my Magic Mary wears out.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

For you guys who have switched from alloy rims (Arch rims, in my case) to carbon rims, was the feel significantly different and much less comfortable since carbon is stiffer? I'm looking at rebuilding my rims with carbon rims.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Flyer said:


> For you guys who have switched from alloy rims (Arch rims, in my case) to carbon rims, was the feel significantly different and much less comfortable since carbon is stiffer? I'm looking at rebuilding my rims with carbon rims.


If you have a full sus bike the increase in harshness won't matter. They are stiffer and track better, that's way more noticeable on my Slash than any increase in harshness.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Flyer said:


> For you guys who have switched from alloy rims (Arch rims, in my case) to carbon rims, was the feel significantly different and much less comfortable since carbon is stiffer? I'm looking at rebuilding my rims with carbon rims.


I'm on a carbon frame FS bike (Ibis Mojo HDR), with a mid-sized fork (Float 34), and went from Flow EX rims to the LB38s. I noticed a significant increase in stiffness, which is very nice for control. However, I definitely notice my arms getting more pumped out when I am plowing through rocks & roots, which is somewhat surprising because they're fairly strong from rock climbing. I don't regret upgrading at all, although if they offered I9 Torch hubs I would have gotten them instead of the DT240s.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

Flyer said:


> For you guys who have switched from alloy rims (Arch rims, in my case) to carbon rims, was the feel significantly different and much less comfortable since carbon is stiffer? I'm looking at rebuilding my rims with carbon rims.


Short answer: no

Long answer: the difference in lateral stiffness between carbon & alloy is tremendous, and was the first thing I noticed when I switched to carbon hoops. There's a definite major improvement in steering precision - particularly when cornering hard - and the bike just gets thrown around less from side-to-side when running through repetitive hit chunk. It just "tracks" better. A very good friend of mine in the bike industry poo-poo'd carbon hoops for years, despite having not tried them. He recently got his first set of carbon wheels and instantly became a devout believer. I sat there with a sly grin on my face, listening to him say all the things I'd discovered two years earlier.

On the other hand, I've never noticed any difference in wheel "suppleness" adversely affecting ride quality - there's just too much going on with tires and suspension to allow that to happen


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

This sounds good. The search for carbon rims is on. Thanks guys.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Flyer said:


> For you guys who have switched from alloy rims (Arch rims, in my case) to carbon rims, was the feel significantly different and much less comfortable since carbon is stiffer? I'm looking at rebuilding my rims with carbon rims.


The difference is really easy to tell for me, significant strength and lateral stiffness increase at the same or lighter weight. Less wheel defelection when riding. That said there could possibly be too stiff and it certainly makes one pay attention to tyres and tyre pressures. Also suspension set up changes slightly too. Overall the single greatest improvement to my bike in the last three years (would I choose carbon hoops over a dropper post or disc brakes no but they are awesome if you can afford them and I now have them on every bike except my pumptrack bike).


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

*Cracked rear rim*

I received my new LB wheel set ~ three weeks ago and managed to crack the rear rim late night. I hear a loud pop while riding down a flowy section of trail in Bent Creek park. I looked back thinking that I popped a tire to find the tire fully inflated. I quickly stopped the bike and examined the rear wheel to find this:


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Yikes, I'm heading out that way this weekend to ride with my LB rims! Which model/layup were they?


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

They are the 38mm am with hope hubs. The funny thing was that the section of trail was fairly tame and there is no sights of outward damage, ie: rock strike. The one thing that I noticed, when I first got the wheels, was how much tension was on the spokes. I could barely bend them when plucking. I have no idea what happen to cause this. I have sent an email to LB and am waiting to hear back.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Sounds like a bad wheel build, not a rim issue. They will warranty the claim, but you will be without a wheel for a while. Maybe get the rim and have your local wheel builder lace it up. Check the front tension before it goes pop.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Could have been worse:


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

Some Krazy glue should take care of that.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

I hope you look better than that rim.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

james12345pt said:


> Some Krazy glue should take care of that.
> 
> I hope you look better than that rim.


Hilarious, actually on my buddy's bike. He was okay. 6 ' drop on a trail at the start of a riding day on an away trip of course.

LB were pretty good as far as replacement went including sending complete set of spokes and nipples for the re-build (although they do not pay for the re-build).


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## earworm (Nov 8, 2014)

I just purchased the 35mm wide 650b rim to build. What rim tape would you suggest for these rims? I've read people have been using 3m 8896, 1" gorilla tape, 20mm stans, but I'm not sure.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I use 25 mm Stans on all my wheels. Will prob use the thin duct tape on the LB rims when they are rebuilt.


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## earworm (Nov 8, 2014)

ok, I ordered the 3m stuff.


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

anyone have any experience with 26" light carbon wheels? I want to go 26 x 2.75 surly dirt wizard on some All mountain 38mm wheels. thanks guys!


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## IdahoLee (Apr 7, 2014)

My 26" 38mm are amazing on my pump track bike. Love them. Made my 2.2s into more like 2.4s.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

Can somebody tell me the different between the am and downhill layout?? Would the downhill layout help avoid what happened to my wheel?


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

Another question guys... When ordering the wheels is there an advantage to using rim tape or just having the wheels produced without the wheel holes so no rim tape is required 
Thanks


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

How do they get the spoke nipples in without holes? Either way holes allow easy spoke replacement. 

sent from my phone so apologies for any typos


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

LB said they could manufacturer them that way


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

Stuart B said:


> How do they get the spoke nipples in without holes? Either way holes allow easy spoke replacement.
> 
> sent from my phone so apologies for any typos


The only way I can think of is if they thread something like fishing line through the spoke hole until it appears at the valve hole,then thread the nipple on and let it slide down the line to the spoke hole,hold the nipple,pull the line out and thread it on the spoke !! sounds kinda tedious lol.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

StevePodraza said:


> Another question guys... When ordering the wheels is there an advantage to using rim tape or just having the wheels produced without the wheel holes so no rim tape is required
> Thanks


The only disadvantages I found with rim tape is the chance of it starting to leak,which it did on my first attempt at tubeless but after that first try it was fine,and swapping between summer/winter tyres,I had to be careful not to snag the tape,or it would have to come off then clean and dry the rim and fit more tape,which is not a huge problem just time consuming.A problem I dont have now with the Mavic wheels.

Im holding out for the Light Bicycle 26" asymmetric rims but when they are available ill be getting them without the need for rim tape.


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

Cut down the stans tape to fit only in the center channel and you won't have issues with the bead snagging the tape. I've swapped rear tires probably 7-8 times this season, probably 4-5 front tires, and have yet to have any issues with the original tape I applied. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Time for a colour change or to match a new frame:









Vidiom Graphics ? Vidiom Graphics Decals Stickers


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## Stuart B (Mar 21, 2005)

Joss002 said:


> The only way I can think of is if they thread something like fishing line through the spoke hole until it appears at the valve hole,then thread the nipple on and let it slide down the line to the spoke hole,hold the nipple,pull the line out and thread it on the spoke !! sounds kinda tedious lol.


Does sound tedious! Give me an easy to service wheel any day. Bad enough getting a dropped nipple out of a wheel with 32 + 1 holes in it. Never had issues with tape, so don't see any benefit for me.

sent from my phone so apologies for any typos


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I just set my 38mm DH's up with 18mm wide Orange Seal tape. It stays down in the valley portion of the contour so it shouldn't be an issue with future tire changes. 

I spent a great deal of time cleaning, prepping, and laying that tape in so I would have excellent adhesion and reduce the chance of leaking. I went with double anodized (red) alloy nipples, I forget the manufacturer that my builder mentioned, and he was super careful while installing not to scratch or compromise the anodizing and potentially creating a starting point for purported corrosion. I'll be keeping an eye out for that in the future.


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Time for a colour change or to match a new frame:
> 
> View attachment 1021561
> 
> ...


How's the quality for the Vidiom product?


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

james12345pt said:


> I received my new LB wheel set ~ three weeks ago and managed to crack the rear rim late night. I hear a loud pop while riding down a flowy section of trail in Bent Creek park. I looked back thinking that I popped a tire to find the tire fully inflated. I quickly stopped the bike and examined the rear wheel to find this:
> 
> View attachment 1021133


Update:
I am waiting to hear back from LB. I sent several pics of the wheel and serial number to them so the engineers can review the claim. It has been somewhat of an headache because they are using pics and not the rim to make an decision. They were quick an responding to the claim and every email that I have sent.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

*Update on the 26" 34/28mm asymmetric rim*

In an email I sent to Light Bicycle around 2 months ago they said the 26" asymmetric rim should be available around now so I emailed them again yesterday and heres the reply.....

"Hi Steven,

Currently, we are opening many new rims molds like BMX rims and 24'' rims, so the 26er asymmetric rim will be delayed. Sorry about that. But we promise that we will open the 26er asymmetric rim. Thanks for your patience.

I will keep you inform when the rim is ready. Maybe it will be at the end of 2015 or the beginning of 2016.

Be in touch.

Regards,
Vivian"

So heres hoping I can get them as a late Christmas present :thumbsup:

Damn those 24"ers and BMXers :madman: lol


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

thanks for the info guys, going with the holes, next question is... what length stem valve to I need and where is a good source to purchase from? thank you


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I'm running red anodized WTB 46mm valve stems. Got them from Art's. My only complaint was one of them had a crappy insert that I had to replace out of the box. Otherwise, they sealed well and look good with my red ano nipples. They have 3 or 4 colors.


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

cool, would love to see some pics!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Here's a link to Art's
WTB Alloy TCS Tubeless Valve Pair 46mm

The daytime shot was from a couple pages back...post 503 I think? The close up is tonight. That's a 46mm stem so it's exposed about as much as a traditional stem on a regular hoop. No problem connecting a pump head to it. btw...that's a Deity aluminum valve cap. The WTB's come with cheap black plastic caps.


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

Killer! 👍


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## vokeswaagin (Sep 1, 2010)

+1 for the WTB stems

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I used the longer Stan's ones (I think they're sometimes labeled as road stems). They work fine too. I only picked these because I was able to get them for a better price once shipping was factored in.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

The Stan's will definitely do the job. I was going for some color and the WTB'S were here since I'm local to Art's. Not sure if they're worth all the extra coin but it's done now.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Ramjm_2000 said:


> How's the quality for the Vidiom product?


Seems excellent. Not ridden them yet but I have new Santa Cruz stickers on my front triangle (Nomad) and they are staying in place. Good quality 3M 'vinyl' (not actually sure what it is other than 3M)


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

Add me to the list of people that have broken one of these wheels. I broke the side wall on my front wheel (29er build) today on a creek crossing.

Now I am not the lightest rider (220lb) or the smoothest so I am sure that played a factor. I do have the Downhill setup on the 38mm wheels.

I do have to wonder to carbon wheels have a unspecified weight limit.

So I'm looking to get the replacement rim then sell the wheels and replace them with aluminum, since I am just not sure about carbon at my weight and riding style. They are a kickass wheelset for bombing through the woods though.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I don't think it is carbon per se as I have been running ENVE DH (the original versions) on my V-10 in the Whistler Bike Park for about 200 days of riding with only one broken spoke as far as damage is concerned (on the rear wheel). I am 210 lbs and not the smoothest rider so I think they are fine. That said my friend broke his LB 35mm on a drop and he is 160lbs. I think carbon wheels are hard to beat as far as weight and strength goes.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

KenPsz said:


> Add me to the list of people that have broken one of these wheels. I broke the side wall on my front wheel (29er build) today on a creek crossing.
> 
> Now I am not the lightest rider (220lb) or the smoothest so I am sure that played a factor. I do have the Downhill setup on the 38mm wheels.
> 
> ...


I agree, I have friends that have rode on their LB rims for years and I broke my rear rim in under 4 weeks. I am ~220 and most of the guys I ride with are ~185 lbs.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

james12345pt said:


> I agree, I have friends that have rode on their LB rims for years and I broke my rear rim in under 4 weeks. I am ~220 and most of the guys I ride with are ~185 lbs.


That's a drag. I think the wider rims are more prone to side impacts unless using a super wide tire. I use 23 psi/185 lbs and it doesnt seem like it could bottom out from a direct impact but who knows.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

natrat said:


> That's a drag. I think the wider rims are more prone to side impacts unless using a super wide tire. I use 23 psi/185 lbs and it doesnt seem like it could bottom out from a direct impact but who knows.


I have had ZERO issues with straight on hits since I have a 2.5 on the rims, I broke the side of the rim on a hard right hand transition. I was running 15.5 psi which was working great, until yesterday. I have 25.5 on the rear with no issues so far.

One thing I will say for sure once I have gone wide there is no way I can go back to thin rims.


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

james12345pt said:


> I agree, I have friends that have rode on their LB rims for years and I broke my rear rim in under 4 weeks. I am ~220 and most of the guys I ride with are ~185 lbs.


What tire pressure were you running?

I'm still using aluminum rims, but have been tempted by LB for a while, but I'm not sure how to estimate the risk.

I do run high pressures though (30f, 40-45r) so I wonder if that will work in my favor. I jump a lot and I hate to feel my tires deforming when I land.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

NWS said:


> What tire pressure were you running?
> 
> I'm still using aluminum rims, but have been tempted by LB for a while, but I'm not sure how to estimate the risk.
> 
> I do run high pressures though (30f, 40-45r) so I wonder if that will work in my favor. I jump a lot and I hate to feel my tires deforming when I land.


Depending on the tires you have at those pressures they might just blow off the rim. I had that happen when I first setup tries on these rims.

Don't get me wrong I really really like these rims I just think I am on the high end of the weight scale for them.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

james12345pt said:


> I agree, I have friends that have rode on their LB rims for years and I broke my rear rim in under 4 weeks. I am ~220 and most of the guys I ride with are ~185 lbs.


I'm 225 and I've had the regular layup (not DH) rims built with Sapim lasers for about 9 months, no problems. This is on my XC hardtail (SIR 9) but it does see occasional use on more technical/rocky trails. I'll admit I am a little more careful with line choice than I would be otherwise. I run a 2.35 Ikon up front at 21psi and a 2.2 Ikon out back at 26psi. I've had a few occasions that I have felt the rim make contact with the ground but it was always very light.

I also have these on my Banshee Spitfire in the 650b flavor. Again no issues, I run a 2.3 DHR up front and a 2.35 Ikon in that back at the same pressures. This is the bike I use for more technical trails (downhills) and the rims are built up on i9 system wheels.

These reports have me a little concerned though. I may bump up the rear pressure 1 or 2 pounds


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

NWS said:


> What tire pressure were you running?
> 
> I'm still using aluminum rims, but have been tempted by LB for a while, but I'm not sure how to estimate the risk.
> 
> I do run high pressures though (30f, 40-45r) so I wonder if that will work in my favor. I jump a lot and I hate to feel my tires deforming when I land.


45 psi? That's really high. You would run 25 on wide rims probably depending on your weight. Whatever you do figure out how to get those pressures down so you're comfortable with it and you will have an insane increase in traction.


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## james12345pt (Oct 13, 2013)

NWS said:


> What tire pressure were you running?
> 
> I'm still using aluminum rims, but have been tempted by LB for a while, but I'm not sure how to estimate the risk.
> 
> I do run high pressures though (30f, 40-45r) so I wonder if that will work in my favor. I jump a lot and I hate to feel my tires deforming when I land.


I was running 26 front, 28 rear. I cracked it during a high speed transition. It was not a rock strike. LB is sending me a new rim and upgraded to downhill layup. I only had to pay shipping.


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

I know that's high.  The upsides to low pressure don't matter to me but drawbacks do, a lot. I don't have traction problems, maybe because the challenges that interest me the most are gravity-powered with berms. 

But I've felt the front tire deform at high speeds and hard landings and I don't want take that chance again. That's an ER visit waiting to happen. For the rear tire I'm sure I could go down a bit, but I've had no bent rims despite plenty of cased jumps and I'm happy about that. 


Cracking in a g-out is pretty scary. A wheel builder talked me out of an LB rim for a wheel I had made a while back, he said they were too inconsistent for high-risk riding. Maybe I should just take his advice.


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## Nutta (Oct 13, 2009)

This may have been covered already, apologies if it has, but can anyone tell me the difference between Light Bicycle and Carbonfan?. Their websites appear to be nearly identical as do some of their products. 

Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

j0hn said:


> There is one other unexpected thing. I saw the rim depth on the diagram, but it did not register in my mind. These things are deep. I run tubes and the valve stems were *barely* long enough to reach all of the way through.


I finally found a better tube than the conti 42 mm presta. Pricepoint uses a 48 mm presta on their branded tubes


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

natrat said:


> I finally found a better tube than the conti 42 mm presta. Pricepoint uses a 48 mm presta on their branded tubes


This day and age there is not reason at all for using tubes, go tubeless face your fear!! Not in less you only do downhill riding.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Irregardless, it's good info to share. I flatted on mine earlier this year- sidewall tear. Threw my tube in and the valve wasn't long enough to get the pump on. Had to walk out. Special ordered some 48mm tubes at the LBS.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Ok, yes that is good info sorry about that!!


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I find it incredible that people are building $1000+ carbon wheelsets with amazing hubs and spoke technology and then taking the retorgrade step of running tubes. 

Fair point that one should have a spare with a long enough valve (or just buy a couple of extenders for one's spare).

Oh and ref the "unless doing DH comment" I have been running tubeless in the Whistler Bike Park for four years at 100+ days per season and I have had three flat tyres. One side wall tear on a rock and two bead failures. 

There is no reason to run tubeless in 2015 other than irrational misplaced fear.


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## loopsb (Aug 9, 2004)

"There is no reason to run tubeless in 2015 other than irrational misplaced fear."

I agree, tubes aren't that scary. Simple too :thumbsup:


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

dgw7000 said:


> This day and age there is not reason at all for using tubes, go tubeless face your fear!! Not in less you only do downhill riding.


Ok what do i need ?. Stans goop, the valve, there is one layer of yellow tape in place. Thunderburt says tl ready and the front is sworks renegade 2bliss. So then just a compressor?


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

natrat said:


> Ok what do i need ?. Stans goop, the valve, there is one layer of yellow tape in place. Thunderburt says tl ready and the front is sworks renegade 2bliss. So then just a compressor?


Ive got by with a high volume Lezyne Dirt Floor Drive Pump on all my tyres but the On One Smorgasbord and Chunky Monkey were a pain to seat. Its kinda pricy and for a little bit more could pick up a cheap compressor .But seeing as i have the pump I'm thinking of getting the Airshot Tubeless Inflation System for the difficult to seat tyres.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

natrat said:


> I finally found a better tube than the conti 42 mm presta. Pricepoint uses a 48 mm presta on their branded tubes


Thanks for the followup! I recently bought some Performance brand tubes with a 60mm valve stem. I also have a valve extender as a backup, but it's not as convenient.

I see the tube/less issue much like clipless/flats. Run whatever makes you happy.


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I find it incredible that people are building $1000+ carbon wheelsets with amazing hubs and spoke technology and then taking the retorgrade step of running tubes.
> 
> Fair point that one should have a spare with a long enough valve (or just buy a couple of extenders for one's spare).
> 
> ...


I agree. I had concerns when I first went tubeless. But now I've ridden alloy rims, Roval Traverse SL (carbon) rims, and Light Bicycle 30mm od/27mm id all tubeless at Keystone, Winter Park, and Angelfire multiple times per summer, and also all mountain and xc riding on rocky trails. Have not had any problems whatsoever. No flats. I even was running 12 psi. in the rear on my Light Bicycle rim one day at Angelfire for several runs and did not realize it was that low until I finally stopped and checked it. I aired it up to 20 psi. and continued riding the rest of the day. One thing I've have realized is that I feel much better about and safer with tires with thicker sidewalls as opposed to some of the thin-walled ones. There is much less chance of lateral rolling of the tire in turns and corners (as well as drops) so burps are less likely.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

I plan on trying everything from 2.25 width for XC to 2.8 tires for chunky downhills on the 650b 38mm rims. (About to order, don't have them yet)

My main concern is, are these rims too wide to work well with the narrower 2.25 tires? Please post your experiences.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

jaks said:


> I plan on trying everything from 2.25 width for XC to 2.8 tires for chunky downhills on the 650b 38mm rims. (About to order, don't have them yet)
> 
> My main concern is, are these rims too wide to work well with the narrower 2.25 tires? Please post your experiences.


I have lb38 rims on a trek remedy and have used everything from minion dhf and magic Mary's racing Enduro to bontrager xr2 2.2 racing XC and 50mi endurance races. Works wonderfully.


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

jaks said:


> I plan on trying everything from 2.25 width for XC to 2.8 tires for chunky downhills on the 650b 38mm rims. (About to order, don't have them yet)
> 
> My main concern is, are these rims too wide to work well with the narrower 2.25 tires? Please post your experiences.


I personally would refrain from using an xc tire that is small volume, "low profile". Instead If I were to use a 2.2 tire I would use something that is intended for xc trail or all mountain - a tire that is larger volume.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Personally I don't see the point. You are going to save maybe 70-100 grams per tyre (and you have saved that by going to a better wheel set ) but you are going to give up so much grip, traction and performance that it is just not worth it.

There are quite a few good 2.35/ 2.4" tyres that are in the 750-890 gram bracket that just give so much more performance and reassurance (ie my ride does not end with a side wall tear and a long walk home) than anything skinnier and lighter. Not every 2.4" tyre has to weigh as much as a WTB TCS (but you are getting a bomber sidewall for your weight so it comes back to trade offs as does every tyre choice).

Fine if you only ride buffed singletrack and weigh 140 lbs but if you are in that category then why buy such a wide rim in the first place?

I have the LB 35 (30 mm innner) and I would not run a 2.2" Conti Trail King on it as I think you would destroy the rim from side impacts and the 2.2" Trail King is a pretty beefy 2.2" tyre (Protection and Apex sidewalls).


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Personally I don't see the point. You are going to save maybe 70-100 grams per tyre (and you have saved that by going to a better wheel set ) but you are going to give up so much grip, traction and performance that it is just not worth it.
> 
> There are quite a few good 2.35/ 2.4" tyres that are in the 750-890 gram bracket that just give so much more performance and reassurance (ie my ride does not end with a side wall tear and a long walk home) than anything skinnier and lighter. Not every 2.4" tyre has to weigh as much as a WTB TCS (but you are getting a bomber sidewall for your weight so it comes back to trade offs as does every tyre choice).
> 
> ...


The post asked what tires he could run, not what you think he should.

Tires for courses/conditions/optimization: I have at least 4 sets of tires that get swapped at least monthly based on what I'm doing-- all on lb38 rims. Local midwest buff XC race? Bontrager xr2 2.2. Rowdy Monarch Crest Enduro? 2.35 or 2.5 Minions. The lb38 rims hold and support a wide range of tires with great success.

Also, would you put the same size tires on Prius as on a dually diesel pickup? No. A 250lbs on 2.4s person may experience equal traction to a 150lbs person running 2.1s. Not a perfect analogy but you get the point.

Lb38rims seem to work great whether you want to run 3", 2.5", 2.2" or 2.1" tire.


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Personally I don't see the point. ).


The other thing is i noticed going narrower on the front translates into not as responsive steering as it squares off a bit. I don't ride too aggressively so i can get away with a 500g x country tire set up 2.3 renegade/2.2 race king on the 27 id wheels


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Not sure what you mean by not as responsive. Can you explain?


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## spokeywheeler (Dec 1, 2006)

**Paid Spam**

I have a set of LB 38mm wheels I am selling if anyone's interested. The rear is 142x12, front is 100x15 and they are 27.5". They may or may not fit your bike. Please see ad for more details if your interested.

See ad: Light Bicycle 38mm Carbon Wheelset - DT350 12x142/100x15 XD Driver - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## alex_k (Jan 29, 2008)

spokeywheeler said:


> For anyone who's interested in trying out these wheels I have a set I am selling. Ready to ride and you don't have to wait a month plus for them to ship!
> 
> See ad: Light Bicycle 38mm Carbon Wheelset - DT350 12x142/100x15 XD Driver - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


one size fits all?


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## natrat (Mar 20, 2008)

jaks said:


> Not sure what you mean by not as responsive. Can you explain?


well with a rounder profile it seems like you get a quicker turn in, quicker response to steering input


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## spokeywheeler (Dec 1, 2006)

No not one size fits all. We're talking about bike parts, nothing's standard! Edited my original post to avoid any confusion...


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## Smilely (Oct 14, 2011)

Nice review on Singletracks.com

Cheap Chinese Carbon Rims, Long Term Tested: Light Bicycle Wide 38mm 29er Rim Review | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

I'm keeping my 26" Remedy rolling and I'm torn between the 38 and 34 from LB. I currently run Schwalbe NN's 2.25 rear and HD 2.35 front. I don't mind changing to those XR3's I can get them for half the price. My concern is how well they fit in the frame?


ckspeed said:


> Some said LB have the 34 wide with 28 internal width asymetric rims available but not on there site yet. Maybe you should ask LB about this too. this will probably be perfect for your 2.25 tire.


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## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

The XR3 & XR4, both 2.35" team issue, fit just fine on the LB 38mm wide 26er with plenty of frame and fork clearance. Both tire casing measure at 2.51" wide. Do a search for me, I added some more photo to other thread.


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## Joss002 (Sep 22, 2014)

Just read this on the LB News Letter...

"Effective November 6th, Light Bicycle will no longer be offering carbon bars, frames, bottle cages or seat posts. After careful consideration, we have decided it was best to focus on the carbon rim and hand built wheel market.
Carbon rims have always been our passion and our strength. We are are committed to manufacturing the best rims possible and to provide superior customer service."

Hopefully this will improve the lead time and get the 26" asymmetric 34mm rims ready for sale sooner


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Very cool, I'm liking them more already!


Joss002 said:


> Just read this on the LB News Letter...
> 
> "Effective November 6th, Light Bicycle will no longer be offering carbon bars, frames, bottle cages or seat posts. After careful consideration, we have decided it was best to focus on the carbon rim and hand built wheel market.
> Carbon rims have always been our passion and our strength. We are are committed to manufacturing the best rims possible and to provide superior customer service."
> ...


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Interesting and makes total sense.


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

Joss002 said:


> Just read this on the LB News Letter...
> 
> "Effective November 6th, Light Bicycle will no longer be offering carbon bars, frames, bottle cages or seat posts. After careful consideration, we have decided it was best to focus on the carbon rim and hand built wheel market.
> Carbon rims have always been our passion and our strength. We are are committed to manufacturing the best rims possible and to provide superior customer service."
> ...


I for one wasn't interested in any of that other stuff anyway.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

Mine is the 2011 Remedy 9.9 150mm travel and I just got the new Re:Ativ Fox Float as a warrnety replacement so I'm riding this for at least 2 more years. I'll get a 34 Float fork, or the new 36 maybe if I get a deal. Not sure if, by then, I'll go for a 27.5 for a 160mm AM bike, or downsize to a 120mm 29er trail bike. 


ckspeed said:


> The XR3 & XR4, both 2.35" team issue, fit just fine on the LB 38mm wide 26er with plenty of frame and fork clearance. Both tire casing measure at 2.51" wide. Do a search for me, I added some more photo to other thread.


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## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

Anybody riding the 50mm 27.5 rim they have? I am looking grabbing a pair of 27.5 rims to use with 3.0 tire on my 29er, figure the wider the better on the rims but wanted to see what people think. Looks like the 50mm rims are roughly $20 more per pair...


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I'm having difficulties removing my noby nick on my LB 38mm rim. Also I have difficulties to install new tires both ardent 2.4 and slaugther 2.3 I've been trying to install it for 2 hours using plastic tyre tool but I have no success. 

Any tips how to easily remove and install tires in 38mm lb rims?


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## alex_k (Jan 29, 2008)

rave81 said:


> I'm having difficulties removing my noby nick on my LB 38mm rim. Also I have difficulties to install new tires both ardent 2.4 and slaugther 2.3 I've been trying to install it for 2 hours using plastic tyre tool but I have no success.
> 
> Any tips how to easily remove and install tires in 38mm lb rims?


How did you tape the rims? I cut the tape to cover the holes only and leave the bed open so I had no problem with installation Conti's, Schwalbe's and On-One tires.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

My expirience says that first 2-3 times is hard. I even resigned fro plastic tool as afraid of rim. 
I finally succeded with. 
Water wih soap applied on edges of tire
Checking if tire suits to middle of rim
Help of second person (20 fingers) 

Now when tire is a bit streched i'm changing it myself.
And the tip for new tires.
Before first use i leave it applied i old way with tube. This helps to stretch a bit.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Placek said:


> My expirience says that first 2-3 times is hard. I even resigned fro plastic tool as afraid of rim.
> I finally succeded with.
> Water wih soap applied on edges of tire
> Checking if tire suits to middle of rim
> ...


I only covered the holes. I tried the soap and broken 3x plastic tyre tool and tired different 3x different tubeless tires however no success.

Regarding stretching the tires it doesn't stretch at all.

Would it be easier to install non tubeless specific tires?


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## dischucker (Apr 9, 2008)

Probably a bit hard this time of the year in northern hemisphere, but I leave a "difficult" tire sitting in the sun for 30 min before putting it on the rim. The heat softens the rubber and makes it easier to get on.


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

rave81 said:


> I only covered the holes. I tried the soap and broken 3x plastic tyre tool and tired different 3x different tubeless tires however no success.
> 
> Regarding stretching the tires it doesn't stretch at all.
> 
> Would it be easier to install non tubeless specific tires?


mount on a different rim and leave it 24h at the max rated pressure.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

syl3 said:


> mount on a different rim and leave it 24h at the max rated pressure.


I managed to to install it however after having a flat tire, removing the tires is very difficult. I end up cutting the tire, but the bead is still stuck on the rim and I can't remove it .

im getting frustrated I'm thinking to use a dt Swiss Ex 1501 or even mavic crossmax. I don't have this problem with my previous on model and alloy wheelset


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

alex_k said:


> How did you tape the rims? I cut the tape to cover the holes only and leave the bed open so I had no problem with installation Conti's, Schwalbe's and On-One tires.


Mine are taped end to end and little bit difficult to get on/off and inflated. I use lots of Windex when mounting and inflating/seating which helps a lot.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

In2falling said:


> Mine are taped end to end and little bit difficult to get on/off and inflated. I use lots of Windex when mounting and inflating/seating which helps a lot.


I found a solution I taped the inner with two layers of graffer tape/gorilla tape. It is much easier to install/remove the tires


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I'm running the 24mm Orangeseal tape on my LB 38mm's along with a Hans Dampf on front and a Nobby Nic on the rear. Both tires were a bit of a treat to get on originally and I had to dismount the Nic twice in the last 2 weeks, once to get the production code from inside and again last night to patch a tear from a torn lug. This might seem a bit overly elementary but it seriously makes it go from a real PITA to super easy if you collapse both beads circumferentially and keep them squeezed together and placed in the low center depression of the rim. It's harder than it sounds until you pay close attention to this little detail. Doing this allows the bead to easily slip over the rim's edge for fast removal or installation.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

You should only need to tape the inner channel on these rims, just enough to cover the spoke holes. 3/4" tape works well on mine. Get the tire off of the bead and into the center channel and it should come off without much fuss.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

NWS said:


> I know that's high.  The upsides to low pressure don't matter to me but drawbacks do, a lot. I don't have traction problems, maybe because the challenges that interest me the most are gravity-powered with berms.
> 
> But I've felt the front tire deform at high speeds and hard landings and I don't want take that chance again. That's an ER visit waiting to happen. For the rear tire I'm sure I could go down a bit, but I've had no bent rims despite plenty of cased jumps and I'm happy about that.
> 
> Cracking in a g-out is pretty scary. A wheel builder talked me out of an LB rim for a wheel I had made a while back, he said they were too inconsistent for high-risk riding. Maybe I should just take his advice.


Carbon rims do not like high pressure. High pressure G-outs are the hardest for carbon rims to handle by far.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

Nutta said:


> This may have been covered already, apologies if it has, but can anyone tell me the difference between Light Bicycle and Carbonfan?. Their websites appear to be nearly identical as do some of their products.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk


Carbonfan is a trading company (buy from many factories and re-sell on their website). Light Bicycle is a 5 year old manufacturer of carbon rims. We do not sell to trading companies.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

natrat said:


> I finally found a better tube than the conti 42 mm presta. Pricepoint uses a 48 mm presta on their branded tubes


We are going to offer black anodized tubeless valves in the correct lengths later this year


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

natrat said:


> Ok what do i need ?. Stans goop, the valve, there is one layer of yellow tape in place. Thunderburt says tl ready and the front is sworks renegade 2bliss. So then just a compressor?


Yes you need tubeless valves, tape to cover the holes, and sealant (Stans and Orange seal are popular choices). You may be able to seat some tires with a floor pump once you get some experience, but compressed air works well. Just make sure to not overinflate the tires as carbon rims DON NOT like high pressure (50+ psi is very high, they should seat at around 25-35).


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

jaks said:


> I plan on trying everything from 2.25 width for XC to 2.8 tires for chunky downhills on the 650b 38mm rims. (About to order, don't have them yet)
> 
> My main concern is, are these rims too wide to work well with the narrower 2.25 tires? Please post your experiences.


If the tire has a more rounded profile to begin with, then it should be fine. Specialized Purgatory 2.3" is about the same as most companies 2.25's and they work very well front or rear. Just make sure you get the Grid casing if you're riding in rocky terrain.

There are plenty of 2.3+ tires that have a nice profile, but fewer options in the 2.1-2.25 range as they will be more squared off. They will handle larger 2.8" tires no problem.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Personally I don't see the point. You are going to save maybe 70-100 grams per tyre (and you have saved that by going to a better wheel set ) but you are going to give up so much grip, traction and performance that it is just not worth it.
> 
> There are quite a few good 2.35/ 2.4" tyres that are in the 750-890 gram bracket that just give so much more performance and reassurance (ie my ride does not end with a side wall tear and a long walk home) than anything skinnier and lighter. Not every 2.4" tyre has to weigh as much as a WTB TCS (but you are getting a bomber sidewall for your weight so it comes back to trade offs as does every tyre choice).
> 
> ...


I tend to agree with you on this. If you go with a 30+mm rim, stick with a larger volume tire to capitalize on the strengths of the wider rims.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Light Bicycle, Glad to see company representation on the forum. Are you based at the factory or US based? Glad to see LB's business increasing, so far my experience with your products have been excellent.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

light bicycle said:


> Just make sure to not overinflate the tires as carbon rims DON NOT like high pressure (50+ psi is very high, they should seat at around 25-35).


Just out of curiosity, what can happen to a carbon LB rim at high pressure? I have a set of the early lb rims (28mm external width) that I use for cross and road training that are consistently at 45-75 psi.

I bought them second hand so I do not expect any warranty but they have been bulletproof for a whole season.

And welcome to the forum LB. It's nice to have someone to represent. I have been very happy with the rims even tho I totally destroyed the rear rim in a crash. (Rear derailleur cage got caught in the spoke and ripped the nipple thru the rim)
Thanks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Depends on the layup but the newer hookless style rims are not really designed to hold more than 45 psi and the bead can blow off if they are over inflated, regardless of who makes them. They are designed to be ridden with 20-30 psi anyway so 45 psi would be considered excessive for that style of rim. If your riding requires high pressures for whatever reason then a traditional hooked rim is probably the right way to go. Some brands are caught between the two styles (Novatec for example, 23mm inner width and hooked rims).


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Depends on the layup but the newer hookless style rims are not really designed to hold more than 45 psi and the bead can blow off if they are over inflated, regardless of who makes them. They are designed to be ridden with 20-30 psi anyway so 45 psi would be considered excessive for that style of rim. If your riding requires high pressures for whatever reason then a traditional hooked rim is probably the right way to go. Some brands are caught between the two styles (Novatec for example, 23mm inner width and hooked rims).


I'm pretty sure these are the hooked design.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

Acme54321 said:


> You should only need to tape the inner channel on these rims, just enough to cover the spoke holes. 3/4" tape works well on mine. Get the tire off of the bead and into the center channel and it should come off without much fuss.


This is a good tip. If you use ~18mm wide tape (thinner the better), it covers the holes adequately and does not creep up over the bead seats.

To remove the tire, use both hands and push upwards and inwards. If it is too hard to break the bead, make sure it's back in the bead seat (not on the bead seat bump) and then try to break the bead in an easier spot. Once you break it somewhere, push it ALL of the way into the center channel, this is key.

Gorilla tape is very thick and should be used for loose fitting tires only. You could use a narrow strip of gorilla tape in the center channel and then use a thin tubeless tape Stans, Orange seal etc. over top of it so the tire moves across the tape more easily.

For installation, make sure the bead is in the center channel right in the middle (deepest point). You can use a tire fitting agent like Schwalbe easy-fit or soap and water to lubricate the beads if required. After it is installed in the center channel on both sides and the sealant is poured in, pull the left and right beads outwards from the center channel (one full lap). This will help tighten the tire and give you a good chance of inflating the tire with a floor pump.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

jkidd_39 said:


> Just out of curiosity, what can happen to a carbon LB rim at high pressure? I have a set of the early lb rims (28mm external width) that I use for cross and road training that are consistently at 45-75 psi.
> 
> I bought them second hand so I do not expect any warranty but they have been bulletproof for a whole season.
> 
> ...


Hi jkidd_39,

High pressure can cause delamination in carbon rims (not just our rims), especially if you ride that high off-road. Narrow, deeper, and rims with thicker sidewalls can handle more pressure. If you were riding 35psi on a 23mm internal width, then you would start at ~28 psi on a 30mm wide (internal) rim for example.

For reference, the recommended cycling pressure of a 22mm internal width carbon rim (without sidewall reinforcement) is 40psi. they can handle a bit more if they are only used on the road, but 75psi sounds excessive.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Depends on the layup but the newer hookless style rims are not really designed to hold more than 45 psi and the bead can blow off if they are over inflated, regardless of who makes them. They are designed to be ridden with 20-30 psi anyway so 45 psi would be considered excessive for that style of rim. If your riding requires high pressures for whatever reason then a traditional hooked rim is probably the right way to go. Some brands are caught between the two styles (Novatec for example, 23mm inner width and hooked rims).


Hi Andrew,

We agree completely. Hookless is designed for MTB use, not high pressure.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

*Light Bicycle Asymmetric*



light bicycle said:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> We agree completely. Hookless is designed for MTB use, not high pressure.


I have a set of LB 30mm wide rims now for 2 years they have been bullet prof . I'm looking for another set. When will you list all your rims on your site. Looking for some asymmetric 29er like 32 or 33mm outside width.
Thanks!!


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

light bicycle said:


> This is a good tip. If you use ~18mm wide tape (thinner the better), it covers the holes adequately and does not creep up over the bead seats.
> 
> Gorilla tape is very thick and should be used for loose fitting tires only. You could use a narrow strip of gorilla tape in the center channel and then use a thin tubeless tape Stans, Orange seal etc. over top of it so the tire moves across the tape more easily.


Speaking of rim tape...
I probably will be ordering some rims from you soon that do not have holes drilled in the rim bed, so I don't have to use tape at all. But I'm wondering if there may be an issue with some tires making a good seal if they aren't tight enough around a rim that does not have tape. Also, I usually switch tires out as I ride on different types of terrain - sometimes I am switching tires multiple times per month for instance. As a tire is used longer and mounted/dismounted and generally becomes worn from normal use, do you think it could become more loose at the bead so that it could become more difficult to make a good seal? The reason I would order rims w/out bed holes is to avoid having to use tape, so it would be a bummer to have to use tape after all just to get the tire to mount securely. What are your thoughts?


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

pb123hou said:


> Speaking of rim tape...
> I probably will be ordering some rims from you soon that do not have holes drilled in the rim bed, so I don't have to use tape at all. But I'm wondering if there may be an issue with some tires making a good seal if they aren't tight enough around a rim that does not have tape. Also, I usually switch tires out as I ride on different types of terrain - sometimes I am switching tires multiple times per month for instance. As a tire is used longer and mounted/dismounted and generally becomes worn from normal use, do you think it could become more loose at the bead so that it could become more difficult to make a good seal? The reason I would order rims w/out bed holes is to avoid having to use tape, so it would be a bummer to have to use tape after all just to get the tire to mount securely. What are your thoughts?


My understanding would be that the bead seat are where you need to worry about a good seal, and if the rim you want has a bead seat bump leading into it, then you will have some extra protection. The main area that tape is used to thicken up the overall diameter and aid in sealing is in the middle of the center channel (drop channel). You might need compressed air instead of a floor pump if you have a loose fitting tire in the drop channel.

Which model(s) were you considering?

Thank You,


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## mopes (Mar 8, 2011)

pb123hou said:


> Speaking of rim tape...
> I probably will be ordering some rims from you soon that do not have holes drilled in the rim bed, so I don't have to use tape at all. But I'm wondering if there may be an issue with some tires making a good seal if they aren't tight enough around a rim that does not have tape. Also, I usually switch tires out as I ride on different types of terrain - sometimes I am switching tires multiple times per month for instance. As a tire is used longer and mounted/dismounted and generally becomes worn from normal use, do you think it could become more loose at the bead so that it could become more difficult to make a good seal? The reason I would order rims w/out bed holes is to avoid having to use tape, so it would be a bummer to have to use tape after all just to get the tire to mount securely. What are your thoughts?


Curious to hear how this works out for you as I'd like to order some UST style as well.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

pb123hou said:


> Speaking of rim tape...
> I probably will be ordering some rims from you soon that do not have holes drilled in the rim bed, so I don't have to use tape at all. But I'm wondering if there may be an issue with some tires making a good seal if they aren't tight enough around a rim that does not have tape. Also, I usually switch tires out as I ride on different types of terrain - sometimes I am switching tires multiple times per month for instance. As a tire is used longer and mounted/dismounted and generally becomes worn from normal use, do you think it could become more loose at the bead so that it could become more difficult to make a good seal? The reason I would order rims w/out bed holes is to avoid having to use tape, so it would be a bummer to have to use tape after all just to get the tire to mount securely. What are your thoughts?


How much of a challenge is building the wheel without a hole in the rim bed???

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

jkidd_39 said:


> How much of a challenge is building the wheel without a hole in the rim bed???
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


Ditto.

It's the only aspect of wrenching that I DON'T do (wheel building/truing). I really curious how that works?


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

jkidd_39 said:


> How much of a challenge is building the wheel without a hole in the rim bed???
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


The nipples get fed through the valve hole with fishing line.

It is a pain in the ass to do for not a significant gain.


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

pb123hou said:


> Speaking of rim tape...
> I probably will be ordering some rims from you soon that do not have holes drilled in the rim bed, so I don't have to use tape at all. But I'm wondering if there may be an issue with some tires making a good seal if they aren't tight enough around a rim that does not have tape. Also, I usually switch tires out as I ride on different types of terrain - sometimes I am switching tires multiple times per month for instance. As a tire is used longer and mounted/dismounted and generally becomes worn from normal use, do you think it could become more loose at the bead so that it could become more difficult to make a good seal? The reason I would order rims w/out bed holes is to avoid having to use tape, so it would be a bummer to have to use tape after all just to get the tire to mount securely. What are your thoughts?
> 
> 
> ...


I have always taped the whole rim bed from edge to edge on rims I have taped to set up tubeless. This is according to Stans instructions and I've been following that since the first time I did a tubeless setup. They even suggest two layers of tape may be necessary to get a tight fit and good seal. I taped the rims I bought from you (RM26C03) the same way (but just one layer), and I used Gorilla tape. I have mounted 8 or 9 different tires on the rims and only had a problem with one downhill tire (Maxxis Minion DHF UST wire bead) - it was extremely difficult to get it from the inner channel over the bump and into the bead seat- I ended up giving up on that tire. It does make a very nice, tight fit on the rest of the tires and I have gone extended periods with the sealant dried up with around 21 psi. and still never had any burps/broken seals.

I do want the benefit of not using any tape at all since I frequently switch tires and sometimes the tape is displaced. But I have seen the benefit of having a very snug fit that a layer of thick Gorilla tape gives, so I'm wondering if there could be issues with running low pressure (around 21) - especially on tires that I may mount, dismount, and remount multiple times depending on where I go to ride - I've noticed the tires do "loosen" up at the bead after this kind of use and also just from normal wear. I always do use tires that have relatively thicker sidewalls (compared to a light weight cross country tire for instance). I use one bike for downhill, cross country hard pack, all mountain, loose and rocky desert areas, and everything in between in case you're wondering why I would change tires so frequently.

I will say that on rims I have used in the past (clincher) there was always a much smoother transition between the inner channel and the bead seat, and without the "bump" that your carbon rims have. And I've noticed the bead seat area has a larger diameter than other clincher rims I've used - I guess this is an intentional design of a non-clincher rim.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

dgw7000 said:


> I have a set of LB 30mm wide rims now for 2 years they have been bullet prof . I'm looking for another set. When will you list all your rims on your site. Looking for some asymmetric 29er like 32 or 33mm outside width.
> Thanks!!


Hi dwg7000,

We've got something that might work for you which should be released on the site within December. You can send an e-mail to [email protected] with your request and customer service can notify you when available.

Thank You.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

mopes said:


> Curious to hear how this works out for you as I'd like to order some UST style as well.


Hi Mopes,

Is there any advantages to the "UST" style rims besides not using tape? The wheel building is more difficult with this style. Also, the rim weights would be slightly higher as there are no access holes. The system weight would be a bit lighter with a traditional rim and lightweight tubeless tape. It's not a big difference, but worth a consideration.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

pb123hou said:


> I have always taped the whole rim bed from edge to edge on rims I have taped to set up tubeless. This is according to Stans instructions and I've been following that since the first time I did a tubeless setup. They even suggest two layers of tape may be necessary to get a tight fit and good seal. I taped the rims I bought from you (RM26C03) the same way (but just one layer), and I used Gorilla tape. I have mounted 8 or 9 different tires on the rims and only had a problem with one downhill tire (Maxxis Minion DHF UST wire bead) - it was extremely difficult to get it from the inner channel over the bump and into the bead seat- I ended up giving up on that tire. It does make a very nice, tight fit on the rest of the tires and I have gone extended periods with the sealant dried up with around 21 psi. and still never had any burps/broken seals.
> 
> I do want the benefit of not using any tape at all since I frequently switch tires and sometimes the tape is displaced. But I have seen the benefit of having a very snug fit that a layer of thick Gorilla tape gives, so I'm wondering if there could be issues with running low pressure (around 21) - especially on tires that I may mount, dismount, and remount multiple times depending on where I go to ride - I've noticed the tires do "loosen" up at the bead after this kind of use and also just from normal wear. I always do use tires that have relatively thicker sidewalls (compared to a light weight cross country tire for instance). I use one bike for downhill, cross country hard pack, all mountain, loose and rocky desert areas, and everything in between in case you're wondering why I would change tires so frequently.
> 
> I will say that on rims I have used in the past (clincher) there was always a much smoother transition between the inner channel and the bead seat, and without the "bump" that your carbon rims have. And I've noticed the bead seat area has a larger diameter than other clincher rims I've used - I guess this is an intentional design of a non-clincher rim.


Gorilla tape is notorious for getting displaced when you swap tires. It's relatively cheap, widely available, and is thick so it can help seal up problematic tires. However, it leaves a residue on the rims which is a pain to clean and as you know... it shifts too easily. Tires have slightly different diameters and stretch out in some cases. If you are concerned about burping and fitting issues, tape is a great way to dial each tire in perfectly. Your best bet might be to stick with tape, but switch over to different tape than Gorilla. Stans, Orange seal, or even some cheaper tensilized packing polypropylene packing tapes will not shift around as easily or leave a residue. You could buy a roll of narrower tape (18-21mm for example) and do the first lap along the left side, and the second lap along the right side of the rim. This should give you nice even coverage and that shouldn't shift around easily. If you can find 28mm wide tape, that would probably give you full coverage on that rim and be ideal. Then you're not catching any edges when swapping tires.

As I mentioned in another post, the system weight of a rim with access holes covered by thin tubeless tape is going to be lighter than the same rim in the UST style (no access holes). No holes is cool, but you have to pick your battle if you use a large variety of tires.

We are working on bringing in tubeless tape and valves so our customers can get them efficiently with their rims/wheelsets. We hope to have this available in January or asap.

Thank you!


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

light bicycle said:


> Gorilla tape is notorious for getting displaced when you swap tires. It's relatively cheap, widely available, and is thick so it can help seal up problematic tires. However, it leaves a residue on the rims which is a pain to clean and as you know... it shifts too easily. Tires have slightly different diameters and stretch out in some cases. If you are concerned about burping and fitting issues, tape is a great way to dial each tire in perfectly. Your best bet might be to stick with tape, but switch over to different tape than Gorilla. Stans, Orange seal, or even some cheaper tensilized packing polypropylene packing tapes will not shift around as easily or leave a residue. You could buy a roll of narrower tape (18-21mm for example) and do the first lap along the left side, and the second lap along the right side of the rim. This should give you nice even coverage and that shouldn't shift around easily. If you can find 28mm wide tape, that would probably give you full coverage on that rim and be ideal. Then you're not catching any edges when swapping tires.
> 
> As I mentioned in another post, the system weight of a rim with access holes covered by thin tubeless tape is going to be lighter than the same rim in the UST style (no access holes). No holes is cool, but you have to pick your battle if you use a large variety of tires.
> 
> ...


I actually have not had much problem with residue. When I replaced the Gorilla tape I wiped the rim bed with alcohol to get rid of the larger pieces of residue. The very small layer of residue that was left actually seemed to help the new tape adhere better because I guess it was a little more rougher of a surface and it was applying adhesive to a surface with adhesive on it. One thing I have found with tape like stans and similar type tapes is that they don't work well with a surface that has any contours, bumps, etc. - I've found it does not stick to the bead channels because for that reason. The Gorilla tape on the other hand since it's very flexible can be pressed down into crevices, over bumps, etc. and it will confirm to any surface.

But I'm ordering the rims without holes so hopefully I won't have to use any tape at all. I may use only UST tires on it when I ride at the downhill parks. I guess I will just see if I feel confident that the other tires I normally use are tight enough on the rim without using any tape. If not, I guess I might do like you said with trying to just apply layers of tape on each bead channel. I would just use all UST tires but most of the ones I like aren't offered in a UST version. Whether tape is used or not and how much or how little, I've noticed that the tighter the tire is around the rim, the more safer, less burps, and less problematic it is.

I'll start off without using tape at all on the rims I order, and see how that goes.


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## alex_k (Jan 29, 2008)

@pb123hou. What UST rims are you taking about? As far I as know only Mavic makes them w/o holes in bed.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

There are many UST spec rims with holes in the rim. Bontrager, old Enve XC, etc.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

alex_k said:


> @pb123hou. What UST rims are you taking about? As far I as know only Mavic makes them w/o holes in bed.


Shimano wheels are seamless UST rims. LB will make a set on request (have fun threading the spoke nipples via the valve hole!!!).


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

Actually UST rims are designed and patented by Mavic. It has no holes in the bed but also a specific hooked edge that is made to mate with tires that have a UST bead. I'm not sure if you can even get a license to make UST rims. Mavic does sell licenses to make UST tires - to print UST on them and sell them as UST tires they have to follow the UST design spec to a T. Light Bicycle will sell rims that don't have holes drilled in the bed - it's not a UST rim, though.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

pb123hou said:


> Actually UST rims are designed and patented by Mavic. It has no holes in the bed but also a specific hooked edge that is made to mate with tires that have a UST bead. I'm not sure if you can even get a license to make UST rims. Mavic does sell licenses to make UST tires - to print UST on them and sell them as UST tires they have to follow the UST design spec to a T. Light Bicycle will sell rims that don't have holes drilled in the bed - it's not a UST rim, though.


Actually XTR wheels are UST licenced:


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

pb123hou said:


> Actually UST rims are designed and patented by Mavic. It has no holes in the bed but also a specific hooked edge that is made to mate with tires that have a UST bead. I'm not sure if you can even get a license to make UST rims. Mavic does sell licenses to make UST tires - to print UST on them and sell them as UST tires they have to follow the UST design spec to a T. Light Bicycle will sell rims that don't have holes drilled in the bed - it's not a UST rim, though.


That's completely wrong.

Read the description.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/enve-xc-29-tubeless-carbon-wheelset-clincher

Similarly, many Bontrager rims (Duster, etc) meet the UST spec, yet require a rim strip or tape.

The UST spec is a bead seat diameter and tire interface shape. Nothing more.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

What I said is not "completely wrong". The only part that is not correct is that they can have holes in the bed... but if they do, they have to be completely sealed and air tight. But if I my intention is to have UST rims, I would get them without holes.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

can anyone please tell what is recommended spoke tension on non-drive and drive area of both front and rear wheel?

Has anyone used this tool Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter TM1 | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

rave81 said:


> can anyone please tell what is recommended spoke tension on non-drive and drive area of both front and rear wheel?
> 
> Has anyone used this tool Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter TM1 | Chain Reaction Cycles


No to the tension, Yes I have one of those tools and have used it to check tension on my MTB wheels. I am not a wheel builder or experienced with it, it works but I don't love it. Would prefer a digital gauge.


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

rave81 said:


> can anyone please tell what is recommended spoke tension on non-drive and drive area of both front and rear wheel?
> 
> Has anyone used this tool Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter TM1 | Chain Reaction Cycles


recommended/required Spoke tension is a function of hub and rim geometry, and to a lesser extent, lacing pattern. I use this calculator to get an estimate: 
Freespoke


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

A Tensiometer is a necessary tool when building and, if you know what you're doing, to round, true and maintain tension on previously built wheels. I use the Park tensiometer, and have been for years and years.


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## pb123hou (May 26, 2015)

alshead said:


> A Tensiometer is a necessary tool when building and, if you know what you're doing, to round, true and maintain tension on previously built wheels. I use the Park tensiometer, and have been for years and years.


I have built wheels without one and everything worked fine. But I bought one before the last build I did and I absolutely see the benefit, and will use it from now on.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

rave81 said:


> can anyone please tell what is recommended spoke tension on non-drive and drive area of both front and rear wheel?
> 
> Has anyone used this tool Park Tool Spoke Tension Meter TM1 | Chain Reaction Cycles


That is one of the most common tension meters to use and it works very well for everything but production (high volume) wheel builds. The spring can get worn out over time so you would want to calibrate it once in a while. You can adjust it by turning the screw to change the tension on the spring, and calibrate off of a newer tension meter for example. Measure a spoke and adjusting it so both meters read the same.

You build a wheel based on the high tension side. The low tension side of the wheel ends up being whatever it has to be to get the wheel dished properly. You are balancing the vertical and lateral trueness and trying to get the spoke tension as even as possible. The left side spokes have a tight tolerance, and the right side spokes have a tight tolerance relative to each other on that side of the wheel.

For the high tension side of the wheel, 120-130kg/f is a good range to aim for. Once you inflate tires onto the rim and the spokes are all stress relieved, the tension will drop down a bit. So if you want your final tension to be 120, then build to 130, stress relieve, inflate your tires, and you should be really close to 120. It is a good idea to check the tension on several spokes once your tires are inflated and record that measurement. Then check again after 3-5 rides. Some wheels might be 80 on one side and 120 on the other, some wheels might be 100 on one side and 120 on the other. It depends on the hub spacing and if your rim has an offset (asymmetrical).


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

I am now on a set of these with Hadley hubs. So far so good. It is amazing how much it changes the ride feel and the way a tire reacts. I'm coming from 23mm inner Alu. wheels.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

New stickers to freshen up the look? Light Bicycle 650B Wheel Decals | Vidiom Graphics


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## Richwak (Jun 11, 2015)

Seem very expensive decals. I got some from Slik Graphics and they are much cheaper and great quality.
Light-bicycle Collection - Slik Graphics


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I think once you do the exchange rate & postage they are almost the same price. Quality is outstanding.


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## apavino (Jan 24, 2013)

Would you guys recommend this 38mm DH version for heavy riders? Im 250 ready to ride. Any inputs?


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## jb2011 (Jan 16, 2011)

apavino said:


> Would you guys recommend this 38mm DH version for heavy riders? Im 250 ready to ride. Any inputs?


For a rear wheel I would get the DH version unless you ride XC single track. My DH version was 90g heavier than all mountain version as was a little under weight but only lasted 8 weeks of riding about 300km before it cracked on me 😟


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## apavino (Jan 24, 2013)

I ride socal local trails only..maybe 30miles average weekly local rides. Shuttle maybe 2-3x/ month mt lowe, gmr... You guys think the dh 38mm version will hold pretty good for a heavy rider (250lbs) like me? Thanks.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I think once you do the exchange rate & postage they are almost the same price. Quality is outstanding.


did you ask l-b for a price?

they can ship super cheap from China to the USA, not sure about Canaduh ...


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

LB actually print their logo on the rims and then do the final coat of laquer/ varnish/ resin (not sure what it is exactly) so getting a sticker to cover the magenta just made sense. I was the pilot model for Vidiom Graphics and now they are available online.


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## Peej (Feb 6, 2004)

Just built up some LB 38s. Thought I would post the weight of complete build. I picked the DH version for durability.
Both rims came in at around 515. 
Toral weight with hubs, spokes and nipples: 1736g









Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Peej said:


> Just built up some LB 38s. Thought I would post the weight of complete build. I picked the DH version for durability.
> Both rims came in at around 515.
> Toral weight with hubs, spokes and nipples: 1736g
> 
> ...


Nice. My 29er version with hadley hubs came in right at 1800 grams on the nose.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


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## Peej (Feb 6, 2004)

Just built up some LB 38s. Thought I would post the weight of complete build. I picked the DH version for durability.
Both rims came in at around 515. 
Total weight with hubs, spokes and nipples: 1736g









Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

At this point, my dream decal set would just be the LB logo (one LightBicycle's Forum Thumbnail) placed by the valve hole - and have that in the desired color. That would be seriously sweet.


Looking forward to the information site having more about the Asymmetric offerings, especially on the bigger 29er products.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

tehllama said:


> At this point, my dream decal set would just be the LB logo (one LightBicycle's Forum Thumbnail) placed by the valve hole - and have that in the desired color. That would be seriously sweet.
> 
> Looking forward to the information site having more about the Asymmetric offerings, especially on the bigger 29er products.


I 100% agree !!


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

tehllama said:


> At this point, my dream decal set would just be the LB logo (one LightBicycle's Forum Thumbnail) placed by the valve hole - and have that in the desired color. That would be seriously sweet.
> 
> Looking forward to the information site having more about the Asymmetric offerings, especially on the bigger 29er products.


We will have a new style of decal for our asymmetrical rims next week. They will be applied after the finishing process and can be removed and changed to another style easily.

The valve decal is our new logo (like in our Avatar) and will be available in a number of colours. We do have a decal designer in house, so we could create this style of valve decal for other rims, but our priority was to finalize the new asymmetrical rim decals first.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

dgw7000 said:


> I 100% agree !!


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Very subtle!


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

Look great!

But holy price increase. Frankly the differential between your new rims and others would have me buying the ones with some US quality assurance and warranty. LB needs much stronger warranty service to justify such a price increase, in my opinion.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I can't see how warranty service can be much faster than the "photo of broken rim/ wheel attached to email describing the event that led to its demise", email from LB confirming rim style and whether one wanted it built to DH weight at no extra charge also double checking postal address, email back to LB confirming rim fine at AM build and postal address. Rim and new spokes showing up in the post ten days later exempt from taxes and duty as they had been well labelled as a warranty item. 

Sure ENVE might have been more like 3 days shipping but they are in Utah not China and are $1000 per rim rather than $259 per rim. LB are still the only decent carbon rim (except maybe Derby) offering a wide, light rim allowing a top notch wheel build to come in at the $1100-1300 mark. Nox Composites have their fans and seem very well built but you are into the $1700-1900 range. Nobl are about the same cost. And ENVE are $3000.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

ACree said:


> Look great!
> 
> But holy price increase. Frankly the differential between your new rims and others would have me buying the ones with some US quality assurance and warranty. LB needs much stronger warranty service to justify such a price increase, in my opinion.


+1 I agree


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I can't see how warranty service can be much faster than the "photo of broken rim/ wheel attached to email describing the event that led to its demise", email from LB confirming rim style and whether one wanted it built to DH weight at no extra charge also double checking postal address, email back to LB confirming rim fine at AM build and postal address. Rim and new spokes showing up in the post ten days later exempt from taxes and duty as they had been well labelled as a warranty item.
> 
> Sure ENVE might have been more like 3 days shipping but they are in Utah not China and are $1000 per rim rather than $259 per rim. LB are still the only decent carbon rim (except maybe Derby) offering a wide, light rim allowing a top notch wheel build to come in at the $1100-1300 mark. Nox Composites have their fans and seem very well built but you are into the $1700-1900 range. Nobl are about the same cost. And ENVE are $3000.


1000 per wheel?.. wow you have been getting bad pricing my friend. you can find Derby's for 340 a piece


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

Using my resources to find the cheapest price on parts I wanted... 
$1095 for 38mm 27.5 AM w/ I9 Classic Hubs, DT Alpine3 spokes and brass nips, TruckerCo 44mm Valves.

I built them and dished them and trued them myself. Used 3M tape to seal the holes and installed Nobby Nic 3.0 & 2.8"

This set up went on my Spesh E29 and it absolutely ROCKS.

Picture of the new 3.0 on LB 38 and old 2.4 29" Goma on LB 38.


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

Justin MD said:


> Using my resources to find the cheapest price on parts I wanted...
> $1095 for 38mm 27.5 AM w/ I9 Classic Hubs, DT Alpine3 spokes and brass nips, TruckerCo 44mm Valves.
> 
> I built them and dished them and trued them myself. Used 3M tape to seal the holes and installed Nobby Nic 3.0 & 2.8"
> ...


Just curious... What is the height and width of the 27.5 NN 2.8 on the LB38 rim? Would they fit on a 27.5 160mm Pike?


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

Yeah, other than the asymetic spoke holes what makes these $80 more than the 38mm rims. At that price I'd just but the 38s.


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

Acme54321 said:


> Yeah, other than the asymetic spoke holes what makes these $80 more than the 38mm rims. At that price I'd just but the 38s.


the asymmetrical wheels aren't really a benefit on a mountain bike, more for a road bike because the rims and wheels are so narrow. save the money and just go 38mm


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Starting to approach the price of Canadian light bicycle wheels - May make it easier for my next purchase if I dont have to deal with shipping instead I can just stop by their shop outside of Vancouver.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

waveslayer said:


> the asymmetrical wheels aren't really a benefit on a mountain bike, more for a road bike because the rims and wheels are so narrow. save the money and just go 38mm


Asymmetrical rims are a benefit on the boost spacing that become the new standard. It allows for equal spoke length "both sides" and spoke tension so building a better wheel.

LB are you also coming out with say 32mm/29er rims that are light for the XC people? Similar to NOX rims? "Teocalli" Thanks!!


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Apparently asymmetrical rims allow more even spoke tension (from Nox):

"Asymmetrical rims build up into stiffer, stronger and more reliable wheels by improving the bracing angles of a dished wheel and equalizing the spoke tensions between the drive and non-drive side spokes. On a mountain bike wheelset with disc brakes, both the front and rear wheels have significant dish. With traditional rims, the rim is centered (or dished) by decreasing spoke tension on one side relative to the other so that the rim is pulled into center. A typical symmetric-rimmed mountain bike rear wheel requires spoke tension ~40% less on the non-drive side. This mismatch in spoke tension means the wheels is weaker than it could be, the lateral stiffness could be improved, and the low-tension spokes are prone to coming loose over time. Asymmetrical rims help fix these issues by offsetting the nipple holes so that the bracing angles are improved and the spoke tension between the drive and non-drive side is more equalized. Our rims have 2.4-2.6mm of offset which we've found is the sweet spot; improving spoke tension balance by about 15% but also allowing you to use the same rim for either the front or rear by simply flipping the rim around. The correct position is indicated on each rim. For a better visualization of how asymmetrical rims help build stronger and stiffer wheels, check out the drawing to the left."

Having just re-built a LB 35 rear wheel I can attest to the relatively large difference in spoke tension between the two sides of the wheel.

I doubt a company would be investing on carbon moulds if it was just trendy rather than delivering a measurable improvement.


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## Space Ranger (Jan 17, 2011)

006_007 said:


> Starting to approach the price of Canadian light bicycle wheels - May make it easier for my next purchase if I dont have to deal with shipping instead I can just stop by their shop outside of Vancouver.


Where is this LB shop in Vancouver and what is the name of the shop?


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Space Ranger said:


> Where is this LB shop in Vancouver and what is the name of the shop?


NOBL Wheels - Custom Wheels & Accessories

They are out in abbotsford.

Still more expensive, but savings to be had on shipping to help offset a bit.

Profiles on their stuff is VERY similar.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

So I've read through this entire thread ( give or take ) and it has piqued my interest in maybe trying carbon wheels for the first time. I've been very happy with all my aluminum wheels that I have had over the years, but it seems that the dependability of the carbon rims that are available now have come a long ways since their inception. I have recently built up a 2015 Knolly Warden that I feel could be a good candidate for a set of carbon wheels. With the LB 38" rims at a scant $180.00 per rim, I am seriously giving some thought to buying them and having my wheel genius at my LBS build them up. I guess what I am looking for here is some long term reviews from riders who have been riding these rims, good or bad.


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## Richwak (Jun 11, 2015)

Got my 27.5 31 mm internal wheels back in May and have ridden them hard. I went with 28 hole rims on normal layup. The rims came in at around 1.5 kg for the pair with alu nipples and pillar x tra spokes. The wheels look and ride great except for some crazy pinging noises caused by the angle the spoke enters the alu nipple. I got my lbs to replace with brass nipples and the noise has gone. I have raced enduro all summer on these rims and although they a scratched and scraped they are holding up well. The only issue you will face is tyre choice is currently limited. Due to the profile that the wide rims create some tyres do not work well if you like to learn the bike over. The side knobs move too far up towards the top of the tyre. Tyres that have worked well are the Maxxis high roller 2 2.4 ( i'm guessing the new wide trail tyres from Maxxis will also be good when they hit the UK) also michelin wild grip r are perfect. Tyres that did not work micheline wild rock r, all maxxis 2.3 wide tyres . I would highly reccommend the wheels.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Richwak said:


> Got my 27.5 31 mm internal wheels back in May and have ridden them hard. I went with 28 hole rims on normal layup. The rims came in at around 1.5 kg for the pair with alu nipples and pillar x tra spokes. The wheels look and ride great except for some crazy pinging noises caused by the angle the spoke enters the alu nipple. I got my lbs to replace with brass nipples and the noise has gone. I have raced enduro all summer on these rims and although they a scratched and scraped they are holding up well. The only issue you will face is tyre choice is currently limited. Due to the profile that the wide rims create some tyres do not work well if you like to learn the bike over. The side knobs move too far up towards the top of the tyre. Tyres that have worked well are the Maxxis high roller 2 2.4 ( i'm guessing the new wide trail tyres from Maxxis will also be good when they hit the UK) also michelin wild grip r are perfect. Tyres that did not work micheline wild rock r, all maxxis 2.3 wide tyres . I would highly reccommend the wheels.


Thanks Richwak. What about Conti Trail Kings? I'm rolling them on both the Endorphin and the Warden at the moment. 2.4 on the front, and 2.2 on the rear. Right now my rims on my Warden are Pacenti DL31's and my Endorphin Pacenti TL28's. I'm loving the Pacenti rims.


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## b0bg (Apr 27, 2013)

My wheels arrived last night, and when I picked up the box I must say my first reaction was that they must have only shipped 1 wheel. Turns out, when I opened it up both wheels were in there. Now to tape them up, and get them out for a test ride!


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

what build? Photos?


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

ACree said:


> Look great!
> 
> But holy price increase. Frankly the differential between your new rims and others would have me buying the ones with some US quality assurance and warranty. LB needs much stronger warranty service to justify such a price increase, in my opinion.


The new asymmetrical rims are in stock so any warranty rims can be filled quickly. We are maintaining inventory on the asymmetrical rims to improve service. In addition to the 1 year warranty, we are offering 2 year crash replacement on these rims at 25% off.


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

light bicycle said:


> The new asymmetrical rims are in stock so any warranty rims can be filled quickly. We are maintaining inventory on the asymmetrical rims to improve service. In addition to the 1 year warranty, we are offering 2 year crash replacement on these rims at 25% off.


But is that worth a 45% price increase? especially given the decrease in your currency that should be decreasing the cost of imported goods to the US.


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## b0bg (Apr 27, 2013)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> what build? Photos?


Build was 38mm DH 27.5" rims with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and DT-240s.

Came well packaged.







































By ear/feel (I don't have a tensiometer), the spokes seem evenly tensioned. I went with red alloy nipples for bling, and the appearance/finish of the rim is very nice. I can see a small amount of spoke prep/grease inside the nipple heads. Spinning them and holding a zip-tie along the bead surfaces shows them to be true radially and laterally (as should be expected) but also smooth and consistent on the "shoulder" and internal bead "hook" area. All very unscientific, but they give every outward appearance of a quality build. The proof will be in the riding/durability.

I requested the UD Matte finish on the outside, but they used 3k on the internal/non-visible portion of the rim. I'd guess this helps prevent chipping/flaking from the spoke hole drilling?

I'll get them taped and mounted this weekend, and put them to work. So far I have nothing but praise for LB's customer service, communication, packaging and apparent/initial quality. As luck would have it I ran into a husband and wife on the trail this weekend who've been riding their LB wheels for nearly a year now. They had only good things to say, and even had to replace a crash damaged rim (which they seemed satisfied was a reasonable failure). Their wheels have held true (except the broken one), held up well, and been reliable. I hope and expect no less for my new wheels.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

ACree said:


> But is that worth a 45% price increase? especially given the decrease in your currency that should be decreasing the cost of imported goods to the US.


At the end of the day, their pricing is still very competitive. They are constantly adapting the designs to what the market is requesting. They are entitled to raise costs. If they go out of business because of it then you are right.

Very little (if any) other options even come close to these on a quality/cost ratio.


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## b0bg (Apr 27, 2013)

Taped, mounted and installed. Looks nice and was super easy with just a floor pump. Still good clearance where it matters. I'd be ready to ride except it's wet and muddy on the local trails.



























Guess it's bike cleaning and trailwork until the weather improves.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Got my first ride yesterday on the 38mm LB's laced up with 32 Sapim Force spokes to Lefty front hub and American Classic Disc 225 rear hub. Weight is 1,700 grams with tape for the wheelset. Set up tubeless with no issues.

These things are stable! No lateral flex. Point and shoot. Never realized my old wheelset was so flexy! The cornering stability and traction are vastly improved. I am a total believer in wide rims now. Wow! They are unfazed by chunk, rocks, roots etc.. The most impressive thing is the lateral stability of the new tire profile. I used new, but the same tires, Pacenti Neo Moto 2.3 front (20 psi) and back (24 psi). No rim strikes. My favorite combo ever.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Night/Day difference, huh?! It's amazing the difference it makes!


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Punctured the sidewall on today's ride. Too big for Stan to take care of. Put in a tube and pumped it 118 times. Seriously. But the tire was still too soft. Ended up pumping it another 80+ pumps. The difference in volume is quantified here. My old wheelset with the same tires took 118 pumps from flat to get to 20 psi. The wide rims and the increase in volume they create is at least 40% over what I had. 

I am tempted to run lower pressure, but the stability at the same pressure is phenomenal. I will keep posting about my experience. I had one of my fastest segments today pre-flat. The flat kind of sapped my mojo, but I got it back after a bit.

I am going to inflate the old wheel and the new wheel with the floor pump. I'll post up about the increase in volume if you're interested. My old wheels were Velocity Blunt SL.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

What happens if you are counting and pumping and loose count? Let the air out and start all over? 

I kid. 

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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

hitechredneck said:


> What happens if you are counting and pumping and loose count? Let the air out and start all over?
> 
> That's why I said 80+! I'll get scientific tomorrow. One thing I did notice though. When one of our group gets a flat, it takes forever and I am cold when the ride starts again (this time of year). But today, it didn't seem to take long and I was sweating when we started again.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

30% more volume over my old wheels, same tires. That's a lot. So the question is, when does low pressure compromise sidewall support to the detriment of handling? This will be subject to rider weight, rim width and tire choice for everyone. I am still searching for the perfect combo for my new setup. The new setup is definitely better, even without finding the right balance. I was riding 18 psi front and 22 rear last night. Still felt more harsh than my old wheelset. Thinking I might need to mess with rebound and pressure on the shocks as well.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

What fork are you running?

Edit: I just looked at my post and noticed your signature line....so...nevermind! :lol:

That may have a lot to do with it. You need a Pike!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Time to rebuild my wheels (CKs + older Arch rims) and these are finally starting to look interesting. I may end up with alloy rims again since the Arch rims held up well, but these are tempting.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Oh My Sack! said:


> What fork are you running?
> 
> Edit: I just looked at my post and noticed your signature line....so...nevermind! :lol:
> 
> That may have a lot to do with it. You need a Pike!


My Lefty Max 140 with the solo air and lockout is amazing. The whole telescope glides on needle bearings with no stiction. The Pike is good too. All my friends with Fox forks have issues. I have a Manitou McLeod in the back. Great shock.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Prophet Julio said:


> One thing I did notice though. When one of our group gets a flat, it takes forever and I am cold when the ride starts again


Get a good pump for your pack. Most in my crew have upgraded to the Topeak or Lezyne pumps with little foot pegs. Both are awesome pumps and last a long time. No more broken valves!

This: Lezyne - Engineered Design - Products - Hand Pumps - High Pressure - Micro Floor Drive HP/HPG

or this: Topeak® Cycling Accessories ? Products - Mountain Morph?


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Juice, thanks for the link. I am definitely getting one. The wide tires add a lot of volume and I don't like to depend on CO2 unless I am in a race.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

You probably want the high volume rather than the high pressure version as it is the extra volume that is getting you down (when you have a flat).


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Hi, I've just received a set of the 35mm rims and wondered weather people where building these 2 or 3 cross? Thanks


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

fathomer said:


> Hi, I've just received a set of the 35mm rims and wondered weather people where building these 2 or 3 cross? Thanks


I've built 2 sets 2-cross. They've been doing great...


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

fathomer said:


> Hi, I've just received a set of the 35mm rims and wondered weather people where building these 2 or 3 cross? Thanks


You can build 28h rims 2-cross or 3-cross. 2-cross is a tiny bit lighter and has a bit more lateral stiffness so that tends to be a popular request for 29 inch wheelsets. For 650b, it's a bit more common to build traditional 3-cross lacing as the smaller diameter doesn't need the extra stiffness. Either works very well and it is hard to tell the difference in feel when riding. So unless you are an elite athlete you'll be fine either way.


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## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

006_007 said:


> Starting to approach the price of Canadian light bicycle wheels - May make it easier for my next purchase if I dont have to deal with shipping instead I can just stop by their shop outside of Vancouver.


Ignore my response - had missed the posts above


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

anyone have a good link to measure ERD? I'm going to run some DT Swiss 240S


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Bicycle wheels, wheelbuilding book and courses


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## Pau11y (Oct 15, 2004)

light bicycle said:


> You can build 28h rims 2-cross or 3-cross. 2-cross is a tiny bit lighter and has a bit more lateral stiffness so that tends to be a popular request for 29 inch wheelsets. For 650b, it's a bit more common to build traditional 3-cross lacing as the smaller diameter doesn't need the extra stiffness. Either works very well and it is hard to tell the difference in feel when riding. So unless you are an elite athlete you'll be fine either way.


Light-Bicycle,
Can you tell me how much offset is planned for your 38mm Asymm rims? I'm looking for 4mm...


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## waveslayer (Nov 17, 2014)

what's the ERD everyone is getting with these in a 650B? I going to be using DT Swiss 240s.


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

light bicycle said:


> You can build 28h rims 2-cross or 3-cross. 2-cross is a tiny bit lighter and has a bit more lateral stiffness so that tends to be a popular request for 29 inch wheelsets. For 650b, it's a bit more common to build traditional 3-cross lacing as the smaller diameter doesn't need the extra stiffness. Either works very well and it is hard to tell the difference in feel when riding. So unless you are an elite athlete you'll be fine either way.


I was browsing some tests done on the different lacing patterns affecting stiffness, and noticed the increased lateral stiffness with 2x. I interpreted parts of the graphs to show the 3x to be radially stronger in those instances, but was really unsure what I was looking at. What are the advantages of 3 cross, since it seems the spokes would always be longer and heavier, and 2x are laterally stiffer? Acceleration and braking? Is that something that would even be noticable? I can definitely feel lateral stiffness.

i have a friend that's on the heavier side that wants me to build him a wheelset. I was thinking these rims and some strong hubs would fit the bill. Would he be better off on 3 cross or 2 cross with the 29?


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

I do not know the reasons for 2x or 3x, but it seems the number of of spoke holes and the corresponding angles would play a significant role. 

That being said, I can say that the transition to the wide rims has been enlightening. The wheels are stiffer. I made adjustments to the rebound on the shock and fork. I am more convinced than ever that wide is a great benefit. 

The older wheelset was super light and had a lot of flex and deformation on impact. I reset my rebound using the "curb method" with the new wheels. I had to make a relatively significant change to find the zero oscillation point. Obviously I had to recalibrate the fork to get the bike in balance. Dialed in as they say. Wow and then some! I did not run lower pressure with the greater volume. I know that the contact patch will be the same size for a given pressure, and I have not been lacking for traction. Really like the sidewall stability and the unflappable nature of the new wheels. 

I am not being scientific, but I hope this is helpful for someone out there. Ride on.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

What is your curb method. I have not heard of this. 

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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/[video]-how-correctly-setup-rebound-damping-1001726.html

I found this to be very helpful.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

hitechredneck said:


> What is your curb method. I have not heard of this.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


Actually, that is the oldest method, but nobody does it anymore.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Know this is offtop but can You share more current one (best with video) - i'm really curious as newbie to 4-way adjusting.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

There are 2 videos in the thread I shared. Not sure if there are more. You could search the author himself. He seems knowledgeable about this topic.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Vespasianus said:


> Actually, that is the oldest method, but nobody does it anymore.


Can you share any better or you just deny?


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Prophet Julio said:


> There are 2 videos in the thread I shared. Not sure if there are more. You could search the author himself. He seems knowledgeable about this topic.


Those are really appreciated. Already downloaded all from him related to susp.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

This 38mm is amazing I've been using it for 8 months now. However my only complaint about this rim, the tires are very difficult to remove. I had a flat few time, it took me 15-20mins to remove one tire. So I'm selling this to my friend and I ordered the new 28/34 asymmetrical. 

lB is the enduro version is strong as dh version of 38mm?


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

It happens to the best of them.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Damn that sucks. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Pffffffff....that'll buff right out.





Story please.


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

Specialized Enduro 29. Goma 2.4. 210lb rider. 2' huck to BOOM. BUT I WAS AT A SKATE PARK THE DAY BEFORE HUCKING 4-5' drops. My fault. Need the DH wheels I guess. Sorry about the caps. Too lazy to fix.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

I have the DH version. Hope I do not suffer the 2' huck to boom. 

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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

My buddy grenaded one about a year or so ago on one of our rides and it looked identical to your failed one but it was one of the original series, skinny, and long before they upgraded and started doing the DH or any other series, for that matter. I've been hammering on mine pretty regularly. I watch my pressures before every ride and I have a quality build. In fact, I'm taking them into my builder for a quick check up so he can check the tension, etc.


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## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

*Nobby Nic 2.8"?*

Anyone try running Nobby Nic 2.8" on the 27.5 38mm rims? If so, feedback wanted. Does the 31.6mm internal width seem wide enough to provide good support?


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## rfxc (Oct 18, 2004)

MudBike said:


> Anyone try running Nobby Nic 2.8" on the 27.5 38mm rims? If so, feedback wanted. Does the 31.6mm internal width seem wide enough to provide good support?


I've had good luck with a chupacabra on the 38/31.6internal rims... So yeah.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

What's your technique installing and removing tires on LB38mm. I had a flat last week where I need to install a tube because the whole is too big for the sealant. It took me 40mins to remove the tires 3 of us tried removing it but it's too darn difficult. 


Anyone else having this problem?

also what pressure tire do u recommend for rocky and rooty trails?


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Squeeze the tire all around it's circumference so both beads are pressed together and they drop into the lowest or center part of the rim where its diameter is the smallest. It still takes a tire iron to initially pry the bead off the rim, then its typically pretty straight forward from there. You might need to repeat with the iron to stretch the last 3 or 4 inches back on to the hoop. Concentrate on keeping the entire bead down in that valley.

I ride predominantly chunky rock with loose over hard pack. I start with cold tires at 23 psi F/25 psi R.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

What @ Oh My Sack said but make sure that you have the plastic covered metal core tyre levers (like Axiom brand) otherwise there will be plastic shrapnel all over the trail. I also think it is worth the extra weight to carry the Schwalbe bead lube (or what ever it's correct name is; google it) as that helps the bead slip over the rim.

Similar pressures for rocky terrain depending on winter or summer conditions (might be 1-2 psi less in winter as not travelling as fast and tyre deformity to grip wet rocks and roots, might be all in my head but it seems to work for me).


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

MudBike said:


> Anyone try running Nobby Nic 2.8" on the 27.5 38mm rims? If so, feedback wanted. Does the 31.6mm internal width seem wide enough to provide good support?


Works perfect for me.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Squeeze the tire all around it's circumference so both beads are pressed together and they drop into the lowest or center part of the rim where its diameter is the smallest.


No problems here getting Maxxis minions or Specialized tires on/off with no/1 tire levers, using this technique. Also I usually try to start with the section opposite the valve stem- get that in the deeper channel first, then get the section around the valve stem on/off.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

FM said:


> No problems here getting Maxxis minions or Specialized tires on/off with no/1 tire levers, using this technique. Also I usually try to start with the section opposite the valve stem- get that in the deeper channel first, then get the section around the valve stem on/off.


Running a Hans Dampf and Nobby Nic on mine and the Nic just needed a "little bit" of coaxing on the initial breakdown and getting finished when I had to replace it. Probably could have got it without but the iron was available.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

has anyone used maxxis aggressor with 38mm and also do you know why LB can make asymetric 38mm?


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

rave81 said:


> has anyone used maxxis aggressor with 38mm and also do you know why LB can make asymetric 38mm?


No to Agressor (and any Maxxis any more although new Double Down casing might get a test ride this summer). Not quite sure what you mean by your question but there is a reasonable body of evidence that says that making an asymetric rim creates better spoke angles both for overall wheel strength and also a less stressful spoke angle into the material of the rim. I am guessing that once one goes wider than 30mm inner width the extra material and width is there on the rim to really use an asymetric pattern to a measurable advantage ie there is the room to really off set the spoke holes from the centre line, obviously adjusted to allow for the hub spacing. Just my non engineer thoughts on the subject.


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

Pau11y said:


> Light-Bicycle,
> Can you tell me how much offset is planned for your 38mm Asymm rims? I'm looking for 4mm...


We don't like to go past 3mm offset due to the upcoming demand in boost hubs. It will be around 3mm or just shy of that.


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## PCC (Sep 5, 2005)

I found out the hard way that using 1" wide Gorilla tape on the 38 DH rims is a terrible idea. The width and thickness of the tape will make it almost impossible to unseat the bead from the rim. I had to grab the tire with a pair of Vice Grips and step on it to get the bead to unseat. This is because there's a raised hump on either side of the rim bed, about 1" apart, and that leaves about a 3/16" channel for the tire bead to sit in, effectively locking the bead in place. A narrower tape or something thinner might not be so bad.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Man down...









Nothing wild, bombing down one of our local trails that has lots of baby head rocks. Rear wheel, 180lbs, Spec. E29, 25psi (checked before the ride) in a DHRII 2.3. These are the AM layup. I didn't do anything dumb, but I was moving. The rim is cracked halfway across internally. Tire is undamaged (??).

I'm just not convinced carbon is a good material for rims. I ordered up a DTSwiss XM481 to replace this wheel, and i'm hoping LB will warranty this one so i can sell it off. Might keep the LB 38mm on the front just because.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

PCC said:


> I found out the hard way that using 1" wide Gorilla tape on the 38 DH rims is a terrible idea. The width and thickness of the tape will make it almost impossible to unseat the bead from the rim. I had to grab the tire with a pair of Vice Grips and step on it to get the bead to unseat. This is because there's a raised hump on either side of the rim bed, about 1" apart, and that leaves about a 3/16" channel for the tire bead to sit in, effectively locking the bead in place. A narrower tape or something thinner might not be so bad.


I just use the 25mm Stans tape centred on the centre channel. This leaves the sides of the inner free of tape for the bead but seals off the spoke holes so that the rim does not leak air. Been working for me for ENVE and LB rims for four years now.


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

I have the same question. Any further details running 2.8" tires on these 31.6mm internal width rims? Do you get the benefits of the wider tire without the truly wide rims (like 40mm inside width)? Do you sense the tire folding over? Would you prefer to go with a wider rim?

I just got a 29er boost frame (Fuel EX) and really just need a new rear hub to rebuild my existing Derby wheelset. But am seriously considering just going for 27.5+ with 2.8" tires - requires a new wheelset. I've convinced myself that 35mm internal would be ideal, but I don't know of any 35mm rim that's reasonably priced and light. These 31.6mm LB rims are the closest I've found.

I'll also add that the 29mm internal Derby's make some tires too square. I much prefer a rounder profile for consistent feel when leaning the bike over.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Has anyone requested LB to make a water drain hole in their rim similar to Derby rims? 

Will it affect the durability and tubeless function?


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Porch said:


> Man down...
> 
> View attachment 1054614
> 
> ...


I have 2 set of LB wheels I never had this problem, maybe because both are dh layup . If you are going to ride on a rocky trail I highly suggest go for the DH layup.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

rave81 said:


> Has anyone requested LB to make a water drain hole in their rim similar to Derby rims?
> 
> Will it affect the durability and tubeless function?


No, it would not matter for tubeless, the hole is only put through on the outter layer of rim allowing the water to drain. Water gets in through the spoke holes. I see water coming out of my Derby's all the time, I have the small weep hole on them. I just order a new set on LB rims, I should have asked them to put the hole in!!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Never realized that would be an option but what a great idea! I get a fair amount of weeping out from around the presta stem. Where are the drain holes usually located on Derbys?


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## mogne (Jul 7, 2014)

Hello sorry, someone put on the schwalbe ProCore


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

Porch said:


> Man down...
> 
> View attachment 1054614
> 
> ...


My LB 38's look much bigger next to my tires than your picture shows. That rim looks smaller.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Never realized that would be an option but what a great idea! I get a fair amount of weeping out from around the presta stem. Where are the drain holes usually located on Derbys?


Its located near the stem valve.

I'm still waiting to hear from LB if it gonna affect the durability of the rim. Anyway I ordered the new rims from them which is 34/40 heavy duty. It not listed in their website yet.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

rave81 said:


> View attachment 1055389
> View attachment 1055391
> 
> 
> ...


Huh, is Derby the only manufacturer to do this? Every single other wheel out there has spoke holes to potentially let H2O in...........


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

006_007 said:


> Huh, is Derby the only manufacturer to do this? Every single other wheel out there has spoke holes to potentially let H2O in...........


Derby is a innovator, everyone will follow they always do!!


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## Bullit_cn (Feb 24, 2004)

I am interested to know how LB will take care of your rim

I had a similar incident and they give me $15 discount on the replacement rim.
The second rim failed on 1 spoke hole. a nipple was pulled out of the 1 hole. The reply to me is "my rim is over a year and out of warranty...???

No positive solution or help was given...a bit disappointing...


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I am sure that I might feel pretty miffed if it has failed just after a year but realisitically one year is a long time and potentially a lot of riding on a wheel that they cannot control the maintenance of. I am not implying that you did not maintain it but they have no way of knowing whether or not you are "mister tensionometer" or "mister rag and and store it wet". It does quite clearly say a one year warranty.

A few rides with a poorly tensioned wheel is enough to see it cooked. I am surprised that they did not offer you a 'crash' replacement deal. So you can always vote with your wallet and go to another brand.


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## ACree (Sep 8, 2004)

Bullit_cn said:


> I am interested to know how LB will take care of your rim
> 
> I had a similar incident and they give me $15 discount on the replacement rim.
> The second rim failed on 1 spoke hole. a nipple was pulled out of the 1 hole. The reply to me is "my rim is over a year and out of warranty...???
> ...


Yeah, if they want to keep selling rims, they should stand behind them better than that. OTOH, that is the calculated bet we make when buying the cheap direct from China product, that it can break, even multiple times, and we're still ahead of Enve pricing. Also, there are plenty of stories of specialized and others having horrible warranty coverage at a much higher price point. I guess the question LB needs to answer is do they want to be satisfied selling one set to everyone, burning them on warranty and having them move on, or stand behind the product and keep selling to repeat customers.


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## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I think people need to be a little more careful with their wording here. If the rim is over a year old it is out of warranty, period, no 'ifs', 'buts' or 'maybes' about it, which is the contract one signed up to (figuratively speaking) when one bought the rims/ wheels.

My buddy smashed his rear wheel (LB35) on a drop, the wheel was less than a month old and the replacement was swift and efficient. Photo to LB with a description of what he was doing at the time (sending it off an 8' drop on a trail), link to the trail on Trailforks. A gentle reminder that the catastropic failure meant that all the spokes were cooked too.

By return of day they had emailed back, accepting that it should not have failed, offering that perhaps if he regularly sends 8' drops at speed that they could send him the DH layup at no extra charge. Box arrives within two weeks containing colour matched rim, 36 spokes and nipples (2 spare drive side and NDS), this is a respectable production and shipping time line as far as I am concerned. Customs label correctly filled out so he was not charged tax or duty. Can't really say anything else about a company fulfilling their warranty. 

What could they have done better? Maybe met him 50% on the re-build labour considering that he paid for a complete LB wheelset, but it is not the end of the world that they didn't.

Back to this thread point. the fact is that a one year warranty is exactly that, if the rim is more than a year since you received it then it is out of warranty. If you want to live life with an insurance policy then buy wheelsets that come with an extended warranty or a crash replacement policy. Also expect to pay a lot more for those products.


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## Bullit_cn (Feb 24, 2004)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I think people need to be a little more careful with their wording here. If the rim is over a year old it is out of warranty, period, no 'ifs', 'buts' or 'maybes' about it, which is the contract one signed up to (figuratively speaking) when one bought the rims/ wheels.
> 
> My buddy smashed his rear wheel (LB35) on a drop, the wheel was less than a month old and the replacement was swift and efficient. Photo to LB with a description of what he was doing at the time (sending it off an 8' drop on a trail), link to the trail on Trailforks. A gentle reminder that the catastropic failure meant that all the spokes were cooked too.
> 
> ...


Consistency! they lack consistency on how they treat their customer.
Not asking for a free meal here, just better service.
They need to work out how to keep an existing customer well supported.
Again, I get that. over warranty, means its over. But they need to step up and help out a customer get back on the trail asap.


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## Bullit_cn (Feb 24, 2004)

Why I am so concerned about this?
It's because I am about to place another wheelset for my road bike and this thing happened.
Probably I may just sound venting my rant here.

But I thought, I better share/warn others that after a year...you are on your own...


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

^You have a right be upset about a part breaking, but you don't have a right to be upset that they will not honor a warranty replacement for a part that is out of warranty. If is was a suspect failure, then maybe they do more. 

Majority of Chinese are very "by the book", and could care less about your western privilege.


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## MtnScrubb67 (Oct 5, 2015)

mogne said:


> Hello sorry, someone put on the schwalbe ProCore


Doesn't work. Need an extra mm on the stem. LB 32 mm height, Derby 31mm depth. Procore will barely work on derby. I actually tired, own both set of wheels.


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## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

MtnScrubb67 said:


> Doesn't work. Need an extra mm on the stem. LB 32 mm height, Derby 31mm depth. Procore will barely work on derby. I actually tired, own both set of wheels.


Could you use a valve stem extender? I am still running tubes (I know, don't say it) and it has been hard to find a tube with a valve stem that is long enough. I picked up a valve stem extender and keep it in my pack. Easy.


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## MtnScrubb67 (Oct 5, 2015)

j0hn said:


> Could you use a valve stem extender? I am still running tubes (I know, don't say it) and it has been hard to find a tube with a valve stem that is long enough. I picked up a valve stem extender and keep it in my pack. Easy.










Not exact a problem with the stem length. More so with the treaded portion of the stem. The treaded portion will not protrude far enough to screw on the nut. As you can see in the photo above. Schwalbe recommends rims with a maximum of 20mm distance from the rim well to the rim bottom for this reason.


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## fanderson (Oct 17, 2005)

MtnScrubb67 said:


> View attachment 1062377
> 
> Not exact a problem with the stem length. More so with the treaded portion of the stem. The treaded portion will not protrude far enough to screw on the nut. As you can see in the photo above. Schwalbe recommends rims with a maximum of 20mm distance from the rim well to the rim bottom for this reason.


Man, this is a bummer. Procore seems like a perfect application for these rims to allow for some extra protection when running low pressure. I was about to pull the trigger on a set. Glad this was posted before I did. It really seems like there should be a jerry-riggable solution though.


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## ACLakey (Jul 7, 2012)

Great information, I am looking at these wheels myself.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

These are my new LB rims only 27mm wide and 22mm inside, light wheel's are game changers. I also have NOX 32mm wheel set, but I like the light weight of this 1378g set!!


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

I wonder if ProCore could work on the LB Asym AM728 and EN728 ?


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## Wagon650B (Mar 3, 2014)

Also, I would check with Light Bicycle. Maybe they can custom mold or drill out for Procore? Or suggest to them to tweak their molds and make this a permanent feature. They'd be silly not to.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Porch said:


> Man down...
> 
> View attachment 1054614
> 
> ...


So, what you're saying is, you're a middle weight rider, running 25 psi, bombing down a rocky trail.

Baby heads and big drops to flat are the hardest on rims. 25 psi is very low pressure, even for a heavy casing. (on a rear no less). Im not surprised at all your broke the rim. IMO that's user error. What casing was the tire? EXO?

Just for comparisions, "Brosnan runs 2.3-inch Specialized Butcher tires, presently with the Grid casings set at his DH race pressures of 27psi for the front and 30 to 31 for the rear" at La Thuile EWS. That's on a 30mm rim, Butcher Grid casing.

Thats a good measure of tire pressures mortals can expect to run. Its an EWS race, so the wheels have to last, and its aggressive terrain, on real, usable tires. And, he is no feather weight.

Personally, I run between 28 and 33 psi on Grid casings or heavier. So 650b tires between 850 and 1000 grams. I'm 185 and ride hard. This is what happens at 28 PSI on the front with a Maxxis 2.3 DHF EXO on 30mm rims.

So, you can imagine how hard you hit that rim at 25 on the REAR, even if you didn't feel it through the 6" of rear suspension.

I'm really frustrated at people claiming to run PSI between 15-25 (bottom tends to be lightweights) and blaming rims when they get destroyed. I honestly don't even know how it feels good in the first place, I feel tires squirm super bad below 27ish PSI.

Rant over.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

FastBanana said:


> So, what you're saying is, you're a middle weight rider, running 25 psi, bombing down a rocky trail.
> 
> Baby heads and big drops to flat are the hardest on rims. 25 psi is very low pressure, even for a heavy casing. (on a rear no less). Im not surprised at all your broke the rim. IMO that's user error. What casing was the tire? EXO?
> 
> ...


I agree. The great majority of wheel issues are user error, but the user never admits it. Not paying attention to spoke tension is the biggest issue imo, but folks running low pressures are also an issue.

25 psi in a rear tire for a rider that weigh is marginal. Just had an argument about that in the CO FR forum, folks feeling they need to ride heavy tires to not have problems but refuse to run pressures over 25 psi... makes me wonder...

I'm super happy with my LB 38s. I built them with CX-Ray spokes and ano alum nipples, and in a season and a half I've NEVER touched them with a spoke wrench! They also built up VERY precisely, the only time I've ever experienced a near perfect build without any adjustments with an alum rim is with DT Swiss rims. Normally, I need to re-tension spokes a couple times after a build but not with the LB rims...

I do have some Magic Mary Super Gravity tires on the stock wheels which I use for DH, so the LB rims are spared the worst of it, but there are a lot of difficult rocky trails here in CO.


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

I saw this on my buddies Easton Heist rims the other day. So Derby is not the only one.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

davec113 said:


> 25 psi in a rear tire for a rider that weigh is marginal. Just had an argument about that in the CO FR forum, folks feeling they need to ride heavy tires to not have problems but refuse to run pressures over 25 psi... makes me wonder...


Not an argument
A discussion - about preferences and what works for you may not work for others

makes me wonder.....


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## Prophet Julio (May 8, 2008)

I too am super happy with my LB 38mm rims. The picture of the broken rim is definitely not an LB 38. Looks more like a 28, maybe.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I've got a set of 38's I built up a little over a year ago. Rode them hard-hard all last year and through this spring. I'm 165 but @180 kitted up with pack, etc. I typically ride around 25psi on CO rocky, jagged trails and I haven't had an issue (typically ride Minion DHF's F&R). Rode one day without checking pressure and had a rim strike and it only chipped a tiny bit of clear-coat off the rim. Otherwise, I agree with some others that these rims laced up as well or better as anything I've ever built. After the build, with proper stressing, etc- I've never once had to make an adjustment. Tension is solid all the way around today as it was day one. Totally impressed.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

davec113 said:


> I agree. The great majority of wheel issues are user error, but the user never admits it. Not paying attention to spoke tension is the biggest issue imo, but folks running low pressures are also an issue.
> 
> 25 psi in a rear tire for a rider that weigh is marginal. Just had an argument about that in the CO FR forum, folks feeling they need to ride heavy tires to not have problems but refuse to run pressures over 25 psi... makes me wonder...
> 
> ...


On top of rim strikes, Ive always felt too low of pressure kills my "pop" when boosting jumps or bunny hopping.

I've had great luck with Easton ARC 30s, Spank Spike 35s, and Reynolds AM Carbon rims. All build perfectly straight and never messed with em again. The Spikes were definitely the stiffest though.

I've had less positive luck with Stans and WTB rims. Velocity is also super soft.

I agree 9000%, user error. People can be dumb. Loose spokes will absolutely break your rims.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

alshead said:


> I've got a set of 38's I built up a little over a year ago. Rode them hard-hard all last year and through this spring. I'm 165 but @180 kitted up with pack, etc. I typically ride around 25psi on CO rocky, jagged trails and I haven't had an issue (typically ride Minion DHF's F&R). Rode one day without checking pressure and had a rim strike and it only chipped a tiny bit of clear-coat off the rim. Otherwise, I agree with some others that these rims laced up as well or better as anything I've ever built. After the build, with proper stressing, etc- I've never once had to make an adjustment. Tension is solid all the way around today as it was day one. Totally impressed.


I understand 25 at 165.

165/185 = 90%
25/28 = 90%

Roughly appropriate. I know its not *that* simple. But I can buy that.


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## Pedals On (May 17, 2016)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Here's a link to Art's
> WTB Alloy TCS Tubeless Valve Pair 46mm
> 
> The daytime shot was from a couple pages back...post 503 I think? The close up is tonight. That's a 46mm stem so it's exposed about as much as a traditional stem on a regular hoop. No problem connecting a pump head to it. btw...that's a Deity aluminum valve cap. The WTB's come with cheap black plastic caps.


Those tires are huge. What width hoop and tire is that?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Pedals On said:


> Those tires are huge. What width hoop and tire is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


My 38mm 27.5 rims on the way going with Project 321 boost hubs and Sapim CX Ray spokes and + setup with Bontrager 2.8 Chupacabra tires. 2 bikes I will try this setup on 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9 and Canfield Brothers New boost Nimble 9.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Pedals On said:


> Those tires are huge. What width hoop and tire is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


:lol: Those are 26" LB 38mm OD x 31.6 ID hoops with Hans Dampf front, Nobby Nick rear BOTH in 26x2.35 size. Their profiles really lend themselves to going wide.


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## Derp (Aug 20, 2013)

yes nobl rims are made by LB, as are Nox, and most of the carbon wheel brands on the market.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Derp said:


> yes nobl rims are made by LB, as are Nox, and most of the carbon wheel brands on the market.


I have all 3 carbon wheel sets, Derby, NOX and 4 sets of LB wheel sets. Total of 6 sets, I just got the 38mm wheel set. Going 27.5+ on my 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9 for the winter, will also try these on my new boost Canfield Brothers Nimble 9. 27.5 wheel set came in 1694g thats with tape and valves. Tires 27x2.8 are 755 each. CX ray spokes 28 hole with Alloy nips with Project 321 boost hubs.

I have a set of LB 30mm wide for the last 2.2 years, still going strong no cracks just marked up. LB does only rims now. I know they make rims for many other companies but don't know if they make them for NOX and Derby!!


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## Derp (Aug 20, 2013)

Yes, nox, nobl, derby and a few other brands are made by LB.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Derp said:


> Yes, nox, nobl, derby and a few other brands are made by LB.


How do you know that?


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

I wish LB filled that huge 32 to 45 mm internal gap in their lineup. my stumpy 6fattie desperately needs carbon hoops.



Derp said:


> Yes, nox, nobl, derby and a few other brands are made by LB.


LB is a reseller not a manufacturer. they may do drilling and wheelbuilds in house though.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I love these wheels on my 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9!! Wheel set came in at 1687g xd driver, tape and valves.


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## philreske8614 (Apr 25, 2016)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Apparently asymmetrical rims allow more even spoke tension (from Nox):
> 
> "Asymmetrical rims build up into stiffer, stronger and more reliable wheels by improving the bracing angles of a dished wheel and equalizing the spoke tensions between the drive and non-drive side spokes. On a mountain bike wheelset with disc brakes, both the front and rear wheels have significant dish. With traditional rims, the rim is centered (or dished) by decreasing spoke tension on one side relative to the other so that the rim is pulled into center. A typical symmetric-rimmed mountain bike rear wheel requires spoke tension ~40% less on the non-drive side. This mismatch in spoke tension means the wheels is weaker than it could be, the lateral stiffness could be improved, and the low-tension spokes are prone to coming loose over time. Asymmetrical rims help fix these issues by offsetting the nipple holes so that the bracing angles are improved and the spoke tension between the drive and non-drive side is more equalized. Our rims have 2.4-2.6mm of offset which we've found is the sweet spot; improving spoke tension balance by about 15% but also allowing you to use the same rim for either the front or rear by simply flipping the rim around. The correct position is indicated on each rim. For a better visualization of how asymmetrical rims help build stronger and stiffer wheels, check out the drawing to the left."
> 
> ...


I have the 29er version and noticing goofy things with tire choices. 
Any updates on your favorite tires with these ?


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

dgw7000 said:


> I love these wheels on my 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9!! Wheel set came in at 1687g xd driver, tape and valves.


Can You share outer width?


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## ibismojo09 (Jan 31, 2013)

syl3 said:


> I wish LB filled that huge 32 to 45 mm internal gap in their lineup. my stumpy 6fattie desperately needs carbon hoops.
> 
> LB is a reseller not a manufacturer. they may do drilling and wheelbuilds in house though.


They do manufacture their on wheels. Here is a video of it.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Manufacturer or trading company. What they do have in common is that they are pretty much located in one city. Xiamen. If your carbon rims are coming out of China...there is a 90% chance that they are coming out of Xiamen.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/X...28a0670a9668d056!8m2!3d24.479834!4d118.089425


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

ibismojo09 said:


> They do manufacture their on wheels. Here is a video of it.


We are building a new 27.5 rim with a 40mm internal width to bridge the gap between the current 31.6 and 45mm internal width rims. Hopefully it will be released before the end of this month!

We manufacture rims and we also sell them direct to consumers. We have several locations in Xiamen China, so I wonder if that's confused some people in the past. We are moving into a much larger office facility but will continue to separate the factory from the wheel building facility and the main sales office.

P.S. Thanks for sharing our video


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

light bicycle said:


> We are building a new 27.5 rim with a 40mm internal width to bridge the gap between the current 31.6 and 45mm internal width rims. Hopefully it will be released before the end of this month!
> 
> We manufacture rims and we also sell them direct to consumers. We have several locations in Xiamen China, so I wonder if that's confused some people in the past. We are moving into a much larger office facility but will continue to separate the factory from the wheel building facility and the main sales office.
> 
> P.S. Thanks for sharing our video


Looking forward to the 40mm rims. Need a replacement for my Scrapers that I destroyed.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


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## adinpapa (Dec 4, 2007)

light bicycle, any update on that 40i rim?


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## light bicycle (Dec 1, 2015)

adinpapa said:


> light bicycle, any update on that 40i rim?


Sorry for the delay, we have not been on this forum for a bit. The 40mm (internal width) rims are on all of our sites now.

We opened our North American operation last week and those rims are in stock there as well. The North American operation currently offers I9 wheelsets on all of our asymmetrical rims. The rims-only option should be live this week and an expanded line of rims will be available in the coming months. The Canadian wheel building and warehouse operation is up and running. The US facility will be opening in March.

Rims only (Chinese site)
https://www.lightbicycle.com/Carbon-beadless-46mm-wide-bicycle-650b-rim-for-27-5-plus-bikes-tubeless-compatible.html

I9 Wheelset (North American site, standard build)
https://us.lightbicycle.com/shop/27-5-am740/

I9 Wheelset (North American site, CUSTOM build)
https://us.lightbicycle.com/shop/customized-wheel-builder/


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