# Suggest Me a Good Cable/Housing Cutter



## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

Hello all!

I am currently looking for a good pair of cable and housing cutters. First thought was to go with Park Tools' CN-10 cutter, but the reviews on MTBR and online in general are really bad about this tool.

So I was wondering if anyone could recommend me something good.

Thanks a lot!


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## mtbsince1981 (May 20, 2007)

Felco. You get what you pay for.


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## tibug (Dec 5, 2006)

mtbsince1981 said:


> You get what you pay for.


Sometimes....Parks are expensive and they either are the best products in their league or the very worst, it seems.

I recommend these. We use parks at the shop, but they are pretty temperamental and don't like cutting evenly. Shimano cable & housing cutters are the shiznet, unless SRAM makes them??? Then they would be the shiznit.

Shimano.

Tim


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## supercorsa (Jan 18, 2004)

mtbsince1981 said:


> Felco. You get what you pay for.


+1, by far the best.


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

tibug said:


> Sometimes....Parks are expensive and they either are the best products in their league or the very worst, it seems.
> 
> I recommend these. We use parks at the shop, but they are pretty temperamental and don't like cutting evenly. Shimano cable & housing cutters are the shiznet, unless SRAM makes them??? Then they would be the shiznit.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion! Would you be knowing if the Shimano TL-C10 cuts indexed housing as well?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

For housing, a Dremel beats the best cable cutters any day. Their high-RPM LiIon-powered rechargeables are a great addition to the toolbox.


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## Twister (Feb 28, 2006)

mtbsince1981 said:


> Felco. You get what you pay for.


I've been wondering about this myself.

Do most cable cutters also work on housing?

Do cutters that work on cable housing also work on hydraulic brake lines?

Which Felco?

Also, what tool do you use with the dremel to cut housing?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Twister said:


> Also, what tool do you use with the dremel to cut housing?


I use the reinforced 1-1/4" cut-off wheel #426. The less expensive non-reinforced discs shatter too easily. Either way, always use eye protection when cutting.

















Not my best photo, but the difference in cut quality is remarkable, especially with sprial housing...

...even with a sloppy cut, unfinished.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_Do cutters that work on cable housing also work on hydraulic brake lines?_"

Braided hoses aside, you shouldn't be using cable cutters on hose (as the name implies, it's not a cable). Use a new craft or Stanley blade for cutting hydraulic hoses.

If you don't have a Dremel (I got mine for only a little more than a good quality set of cable cutters), it's possible to finish off a cutter-cropped cable with metal file to give you the flat, smooth finish which is imperative for good cable operation.


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## Slow Eddie (Jun 13, 2007)

*Thet Felco C7.*



Twister said:


> Which Felco?


The one that Pedro's and other tool-branders are knocking off:

http://www.felcousa.com/en/produits/modele.asp?IdModele=85


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

So do you folks suggest that I just get a dremel tool, and cut my cables and housing with that?

That leads me to wonder as to why do cable cutters are in the market- if they are not able to live upto the ability to do what they are designed for.


Also, the Felco does look impressive- but it is only for cutting cables. I am looking for a device that can cut cables and housing, along with a crimper that can crimp the cable end caps. I dont really want to spend a whole lot because I might not be using it as often.

Thanks for all the replies!


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

> So do you folks suggest that I just get a dremel tool, and cut my cables and housing with that?
> 
> That leads me to wonder as to why do cable cutters are in the market- if they are not able to live upto the ability to do what they are designed for


i use the parks, had a set for 3 years now and still cuts fantastic both cables and housings. i've used the dremel route lots, it works nice but i find it a PITA...it's just easier IMO to grab a set of good cutters. the Felco as mentioned, or the park works fine in my experience.


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

ferday said:


> i use the parks, had a set for 3 years now and still cuts fantastic both cables and housings.


Which Parks' tool do you own? Is it the CN-10?


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

> Which Parks' tool do you own? Is it the CN-10?


sure is. i have a shop in my garage (do all the neighborhood tune-ups) and after many uses it still cuts evenly and predictably.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Speedub.Nate said:


> I use the reinforced 1-1/4" cut-off wheel #426. The less expensive non-reinforced discs shatter too easily. Either way, always use eye protection when cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


+1

Dremel only for me, but I use the thin cutting discs. They cut faster and cleaner than the fiber reinforced ones. Use light pressure and they cut through in seconds.


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## Slow Eddie (Jun 13, 2007)

*Cables and housing.*



anirban said:


> Also, the Felco does look impressive- but it is only for cutting cables. I am looking for a device that can cut cables and housing, along with a crimper that can crimp the cable end caps. I dont really want to spend a whole lot because I might not be using it as often.


The C7 will make short work of cables and housing. Not much of a crimper - the jaws are pretty sharp, and at the correct pressure to crimp a cable end it will start chomping throught the aluminum. No funky notch-flats anywhere else on the head to accommodate cripming either. That baby's here to chew bubblegum and cut stuff, and it's all out of bubblegum.

I own both a dremel tool and the C7. I find that the Dremel, while capable of making exceptionally clean cuts, is cumbersome to get out of the box, plug in, use, replace, etc. The cutter is right there on the pegboard, ready to go. I also have a sharpened spoke and a6" bench grinder, which is also plugged in and accessible all the time, to clean up housing ends, so it makes sense in my situation to go with what I know. That being said, Dremels are infinietly useful tools to have and wuold be a great addition to a toolbox regardless of whether you use it for cables and housing


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

Well, since my LBS didnt have a good quality cable cutters in stock, I decided to stop by Lowes and pick up a Dremel rotary tool- it came with 50 different blades/cutters/discs/wheels(?).

I am going to cut the cable and the housing with this thing after I get out of work- any advice on the best way to approach the method? 

Also, when I was in my LBS, I got a couple of ferrules and crimps (and another tube of grease- just so that I don't look like a chump who came into the store for free ferrules).


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## ferday (Jan 15, 2004)

> I am going to cut the cable and the housing with this thing after I get out of work- any advice on the best way to approach the method?


firmly hold the cable down (but obviously don't crimp it by using a vice or something)

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. little bits of crap at 20000rpm doesn't mesh well with the eyes...

the dremel does a sweet job.



> I own both a dremel tool and the C7. I find that the Dremel, while capable of making exceptionally clean cuts, is cumbersome to get out of the box, plug in, use, replace, etc. The cutter is right there on the pegboard, ready to go. I also have a sharpened spoke and a6" bench grinder, which is also plugged in and accessible all the time, to clean up housing ends, so it makes sense in my situation to go with what I know. That being said, Dremels are infinietly useful tools to have and wuold be a great addition to a toolbox regardless of whether you use it for cables and housing


precisely what i feel, i also use the bench grinder to flatten the cuts.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Slow Eddie said:


> I find that the Dremel, while capable of making exceptionally clean cuts, is cumbersome to get out of the box, plug in, use, replace, etc. The cutter is right there on the pegboard, ready to go.


I agree, but recently I picked up the cordless model. Nice!

It resides in my bike tool box full time, with the cut-off wheel ready to go. The lithium battery holds a charge for months at a time, with occassional use.


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

anirban said:


> I am going to cut the cable and the housing with this thing after I get out of work- any advice on the best way to approach the method?


Thanks a lot for all the advice that you folks offered! I cut my housing and cables using the dremel tool, and it was a lot easier than expected.

However you folks did not warn me on one thing- while cutting the bare shifter cable, I need to watch out for the strands to snap out of its coaxial form from the point where it is being cut!!!

Thankfully, I tried it on some spare cable. So when I had to cut the cable that I was going to use, I used masking tape and sealed off both sides of the cutting spot in an effort to stop the individual strands from jumping out. After cutting, I just removed the masking tape and stuck a crimp in there.

Thanks a lot again- you all have been very helpful!


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## Slow Eddie (Jun 13, 2007)

anirban said:


> However you folks did not warn me on one thing- while cutting the bare shifter cable, I need to watch out for the strands to snap out of its coaxial form from the point where it is being cut!!!


After a few tries, you can get pretty good at eyeballing how much cable you need to stick out of the housing. If you line up where you want the cable to end and where you want the housing to end, and cut there, you keep the individual wires wound, and also keep patent the hole in the plastic housing liner. Two birds, one stone, so to speak.


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## dh1 (Aug 28, 2004)

I use a dremel to cut cable, housings, etc. 

My favorite part is that I already owned the dremel and didn't need to buy a single use tool. I suggest keeping a finishing nail in the dremel box for cable cutting. After I cut housing, I find sometimes the inner lining gets deformed and can cause friction on the cable. The deformation is from heat from the cutting wheel. If you thread the finishing nail into the new end of the housing, it will spread out the warm lining and it will harden. The results are always a crisp clean cut.

Once you get good at cutting with the dremel, you might not need to use the nail to widen the hole....but it works well for me.

PS: normal finishing nails might be a bit too big. I cant remember what size I use, but it's pretty small. Just a hair wider than a brake cable.


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## GoGoGordo (Jul 16, 2006)

*What he says- Felco are the best*



mtbsince1981 said:


> Felco. You get what you pay for.


Felco good very good.


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## broken spoke (Sep 18, 2007)

If you want to save a little money you can also go with a different brand than Dremel. I bought a Black and Decker rotary tool maybe 7 years ago and have been very happy with it. Got it for under $20 at the time.


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## sundowner (Mar 13, 2007)

I use Shimano TL-CT10 cable cutters. I get a stray cut every time.


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## croscoe (May 23, 2007)

The Dremel reigns supreme for cutting housings. Cut it, and immediately insert a straight pick (a toothpick works well too) in the freshly cut end to re-open the (most likely melted) liner. I use sharp shears to snip the cables themseleves. A quick and painless process.


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## mikesusangray (Nov 29, 2007)

This was a fascinating thread. Just in case any of the dremels guys are still following it:

What happens if I use a dremel cutter disk in an electric drill? I had a dremel from work but I had to give it back recently, and I'm a little low on cash just now. 

Mike


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

mikesusangray said:


> What happens if I use a dremel cutter disk in an electric drill? I had a dremel from work but I had to give it back recently, and I'm a little low on cash just now.


By all means, try it. Give us a report back on how it goes.

My Dremels reach speeds of 30,000 RPM. I think my nice Makita drill reaches maybe 2,000 or 2,500 RPM.

I doubt you'll put yourself at any risk, but I expect it'll be a bit like grandpa chewing on a steak without his dentures. I dunno...


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## Kristatos (Oct 15, 2007)

sundowner said:


> I use Shimano TL-CT10 cable cutters. I get a stray cut every time.


I have been using the Shimano cutters for about 12 years or more. I also have Park cutters and others, but the Shimano cutters are better at giving a clean cut and not crushing the housing.


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## mikesusangray (Nov 29, 2007)

Speedub.Nate said:


> By all means, try it. Give us a report back on how it goes.
> 
> My Dremels reach speeds of 30,000 RPM. I think my nice Makita drill reaches maybe 2,000 or 2,500 RPM.
> 
> I doubt you'll put yourself at any risk, but I expect it'll be a bit like grandpa chewing on a steak without his dentures. I dunno...


<grin> Well, I gave it a try.

I bought a package of disks and dug out some old brake cable. On my first try, the cable kept escaping, so I rigged a small block of wood with staple nails (they're nails that look like oversized staples) - two on the top, one on the bottom. I put the block of wood in my vice, threaded the cable through the bottom first, around the edge, then through the two on top - and cut between the two staple-nail things on top. They did a nice job of holding the cable in place. That'll stay in my tool box.

The cutting itself gave mixed results. Cutting through the housing wasn't too bad, though it took a very firm hand to keep the heavy drill stable - and even with my special wood block it was difficult to get the cutting disk close enough without getting the tip too close to the plastic housing, which lead to friction burns. I got decent cuts, though - certainly better than I get from a normal (hideously expensive, bike specific) cable cutter.

Cable cutting was extremely hit and miss. When the cutting disks were new and everything cooperated I tended to get very nice cuts. When everything didn't cooperate, I get nightmarish cuts that look like I'd chewed them off with my teeth.

All in all, not very promising. Looks like I finally have an excellent excuse to buy a dremel. I'll borrow my work dremel and see how I get on with that tomorrow.

Mike


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Cool. I was thinking that if you can find a larger diameter cut-off wheel for the drill, you'll increase the cutting speed ("tooth speed?") at the edge of the disk, getting a better cut. But I have no idea how large those cut-off wheels get without a corresponding increase in thickness.

I put off buying a Dremel for years, but had to get one for a tricky in-ceiling exhaust fan installation. Immediately I found a dozen other uses for it (many of them bike related). 

But more recently, I picked up a rechargable version, which is great for housing cutting. In fact, I store that one in my bike tool box with the cut-off disk attached. The Li-Ion battery holds a charge for months at a time, so it's usually ready to go without the hassle of cords or switching out bits.


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## mikesusangray (Nov 29, 2007)

Yeah - I think the diameter thing was playing a big role. The newer the wheel, the bigger it was and the better it cut. The obverse held as well. (Except for my last test wheel, when I thought I was getting pretty darn good. Got all set up, set the brand new disk in, revved my drill, set the disk - and it promptly got stuck in the casing and ripped off. Rats.)

Also, I noticed that the disks (I was using the reinforced ones, btw) lasted for about five or six cuts, max. Of course, it was taking me a good 20-30 seconds to make a cut, and that with a good bit of hand pressure. It'll be interesting to compare notes with a real dremel tomorrow - perhaps the disks will last a little longer.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

mikesusangray said:


> ...I noticed that the disks (I was using the reinforced ones, btw) lasted for about five or six cuts, max. ... It'll be interesting to compare notes with a real dremel tomorrow...


Yeah, I guarantee you'll notice an improvement.

Light pressure, swift cuts (~4 seconds) and the discs should last you a good long while.

Stick with the expensive reinforced ones, though. I blow up the non-reinforced cut-off wheels almost immediately, every time.


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## mikesusangray (Nov 29, 2007)

Say, has anone ever tried this method on cables - sounds rather elegant:

From http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/11280.0.html

* * * * *

Dear Lennard, 
I had been also frustrated by not being able to solder cables until I found a better way. Heat the cable with a propane torch until it glows red in the spot where you want the cable to end, and at the same time, twist the cable with a pair of vice grips in the same direction the cable is wound. The cable will break in the middle of the glowing spot after a number of turns, much like molten glass, it narrows and fuses to a permanent end that is better than a soldered cable.

Of course you should wear safety glasses, be sure there are no flammable products around you and work in a well-ventilated area, etc. 
Keith

* * * * *


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## jgsatl (Sep 16, 2006)

Speedub.Nate said:


> For housing, a Dremel beats the best cable cutters any day. Their high-RPM LiIon-powered rechargeables are a great addition to the toolbox.


qft.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

jgsatl said:


> qft.


What would I do without Wikipedia?!?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

mikesusangray said:


> "...Heat the cable with a propane torch until it glows red in the spot where you want the cable to end, and at the same time, twist the cable with a pair of vice grips in the same direction the cable is wound. The cable will break in the middle of the glowing spot after a number of turns, much like molten glass, it narrows and fuses to a permanent end that is better than a soldered cable."


I'd also think you'd want to cut the cable and then completely remove it from the housing before performing this procedure, lest the molten hot cable fuse itself to the ductile inner liner of the housing, creating all sorts of friction risers once it cools.


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

Speedub.Nate said:


> What would I do without Wikipedia?!?


LOL I prefer the quantum field theory choice


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

logbiter said:


> LOL I prefer the quantum field theory choice


qft.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Speedub.Nate said:


> qft.


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## dr.wierd (Aug 10, 2007)

mikesusangray said:


> Yeah - I think the diameter thing was playing a big role. The newer the wheel, the bigger it was and the better it cut. The obverse held as well. (Except for my last test wheel, when I thought I was getting pretty darn good. Got all set up, set the brand new disk in, revved my drill, set the disk - and it promptly got stuck in the casing and ripped off. Rats.)
> 
> Also, I noticed that the disks (I was using the reinforced ones, btw) lasted for about five or six cuts, max. Of course, it was taking me a good 20-30 seconds to make a cut, and that with a good bit of hand pressure. It'll be interesting to compare notes with a real dremel tomorrow - perhaps the disks will last a little longer.


Do you have an angle grinder? You could use a speedy cut wheel. Not as easy to handle as a dremel, but should give the same finish.


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