# 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.



## boy1dr (Feb 27, 2006)

Just received my 1up quick racks. I must say that pics do not do this rack justice! It is simply beautiful. Well engineered. I love looking at it. I also love the super low profile of the rack. With one rack on and folded up, I can still open the hatch. With two racks on and in the midway position i can open the hatch. Everything is as easy as the claims. I was able to install the rack and add on without reading the instructions in less than 3 minutes. The hitch connection is very secure. I think i'll put a lock on it still since i'm not fully sold that the hex key is theft proof and I don't want to take it on and off repeatedly.

Price wise it is a little on the pricey side, especially since i can get a really good discount on yakima and thule products.

I considered the following other racks before purchasing this for my 2010 Touareg TDI:
Kuat NV
Yakima Holdup
Thule T2
Saris Cycle On Pro


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I agree. I have one and think it's fantastic.

The best part is that it is so easy to put on - literally 30 seconds and the rack is mounted.

I'm pretty confident in the anti theft provisions, but then I don't live in an area where people steal stuff in general and racks in particular. Someone here did a thing with a U lock that was very clean and trim. 

I love my 1Upusa rack. 

J.


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## brettlee (Apr 3, 2010)

nice......


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*This thread is useless without pics.*



















Looks pretty slick. I like the fact that is is super low profile, and does not block the taillights or license place when unloaded. I got popped for obstructed license plate a couple years ago with my Performance X-Port rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Here's mine:





































and finally, tray options that can be either roof top or hitch mounted










J.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

1 up needs to lower their prices if they want to get more into the game IMO.
I tried to convince a few of my friends to pony up for the system so we could share the add-on kits and car pool more but the Thule T2 is already more expensive than most people want to spend. The price point needs to come down closer to the T2.
1up USA 2 bike carrier $300+200 = $500
T2 2 bike carrier $350 
Not much in essence but that extra $150 has stopped 3 of my friends from buying the rack.

I am aware the price gets closer with a 4 bike setup but we want to share the add-ons. 
I like the rack for sure but not enough over the T2.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

wormvine said:


> 1 up needs to lower their prices if they want to get into the game.


Figured I'd fix your sentence. @ $300 to carry only 1 bike is way out of the market even though they do have a good design. Their web site is a bit clunky as well. If they hooked you up with two carriers for $300 I think they would make more money even if they made no other changes to the system.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit? 

Thanks!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

There is nothing even close to this rack.

Because I can use the modules for either AND both cards simultaneously - hitch and roof - it's cheaper. Besides that, I'm not interested in manhandling and then trying to store a 4 bike Thule or Yak. This one, I can put and take off the care in literally 30 seconds _by myself_ - and so can my wife. So, for that, I was happy to pay a premium on the parts.

I don't think they have any desire to get into a head to head competition with Yak or Thule. I also think they have made themselves a really nice business so far and their customer service is beyond first rate.

If the 1upusa rack is too pricey, the Raxter racks are a very nice alternative.

I'd have to check, but I think they would do ok with the larger tires.

J.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> There is nothing even close to this rack.
> 
> Because I can use the modules for either AND both cards simultaneously - hitch and roof - it's cheaper. Besides that, I'm not interested in manhandling and then trying to store a 4 bike Thule or Yak. This one, I can put and take off the care in literally 30 seconds _by myself_ - and so can my wife. So, for that, I was happy to pay a premium on the parts.
> 
> ...


I have a couple of questions?
Can your wife remove the rack without disassembly in its 4 bike configuration? 
Are you affiliated in any way with 1up?

And for the record I can remove the Thule T2 in 30 seconds as well once I have the wrench in my hand.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

People keep talking about the "cost" of the 1up rack and I wonder how often they have more than one bike on their rack? I know I have never *needed* to carry another bike since my partner doesn't ride and I usually ride alone. If my wider ever changes her mind then I'll buy an add on then. I had a roof rack and I only had a single tray on that, too. Doing the math, a complete roof setup was over $500 for a single bike setup. Doesn't seem too affordable, comparatively. 

Anyhow, I agree with the poster above that 1up USA seems to have established their niche and aren't too interested in competing directly with the big manufacturers. 

A


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

wormvine said:


> I have a couple of questions?
> Can your wife remove the rack without disassembly in its 4 bike configuration?


Yes, but ...

It's not necessary. It takes less than 30 seconds to add or remove an extra module . We store them as separate pieces and use what we need when we need it. That's 30 seconds from the wall (or back to) in the garage to mounted on the car.



> Are you affiliated in any way with 1up?


Nope other than being a customer. I found them on the internet and purchased one full price. For what it's worth, I can get Thule and Yakima stuff on pro discount and decided to buy 1UpUSA instead for which I get no discount. I simply feel it is the, bar none, the best rack out there - and it ought to be since it is the most expensive.



> And for the record I can remove the Thule T2 in 30 seconds as well once I have the wrench in my hand.


Then you are a better man than I, Gunga Din.

I also find storing the racks like the T2 and equivalent Yak to be a pain. Way too heavy. Way too awkward to manage.

J.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yes, but ...
> 
> It's not necessary. It takes less than 30 seconds to add or remove an extra module . We store them as separate pieces and use what we need when we need it. That's 30 seconds from the wall (or back to) in the garage to mounted on the car.
> 
> ...


OK thanks for the info. I agree storing the T2 can be a pain if you haven't the space. I have a good place for mine so it's not an issue atm. 
My rack is on for 6mos of the year and stored the rest. I do like the modularity of the 1up rack for sure as I usually need a 3rd space not really a 4th. The cost increase isn't really huge per se but trying to convince my biking buddies to get the double so we can share add-ons has been futile and cannot commit to a 4 bike setup atm. Most people I know balk at the cost of the T2. Especially when you consider the added cost of the hitch itself if you don't already have one. 
I personally hope that 1up is not trying to stay in a small niche and can find a way to bring the costs down.

@racerwad...
99% of my use of my rack is with 2 people. And I usually need space for 3. Also, Do not forget that some folks need to purchase a hitch itself and will cost an extra $135-200.

Enjoy the convenience of tray racks folks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

wormvine said:


> OK thanks for the info. I agree storing the T2 can be a pain if you haven't the space. I have a good place for mine so it's not an issue atm.
> My rack is on for 6mos of the year and stored the rest. I do like the modularity of the 1up rack for sure as I usually need a 3rd space not really a 4th. The cost increase isn't really huge per se but trying to convince my biking buddies to get the double so we can share add-ons has been futile and cannot commit to a 4 bike setup atm. Most people I know balk at the cost of the T2. Especially when you consider the added cost of the hitch itself if you don't already have one.
> I personally hope that 1up is not trying to stay in a small niche and can find a way to bring the costs down.
> 
> ...


For me, I really value the easy on/off and easy storage. I only put my rack on for when I use it and it gets taken off as soon as we are done. If I left mine on for 6 months, I might feel differently.

I do like having as many trays as I need _when I need them._

J.


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## skinl19 (Jan 27, 2004)

> People keep talking about the "cost" of the 1up rack and I wonder how often they have more than one bike on their rack?


When doing an endurance race I may take three bikes with me to have backups available. Even for XC races I may have two bikes for two different classes, including SS. But 90% of the time you are correct, one bike is all I carry.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I usually have more than one bike but it varies from 1-4 with 2 and 3 being most common.

J.


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## Dogbrain (Mar 4, 2008)

crux and wormvine- You two need a lesson in economics. Plenty of people are buying their racks. If you don't feel that the product is worth the cost then don't buy it, that's how it works. Spend $150 less on your Yak/Thule, and then buy another one in a few years when the plastic is cracking and the bolts are all rusted.

There isn't a single piece of plastic on the thing. I had yakima roof racks on my Jeep, and after a couple years in Oregon most of the exposed metal is rusted. The 1up is aluminum and stainless. In addition to attaching to car quickly, the bikes mount super duper fast. When I get to the lot I take my bike off and throw a leg over and I'm on the trail. When I get back in the cold rain, I don't stand there messing with wheels and straps, just throw it on the rack and I'm out before my friends have even managed to weave the strap between the spokes. Its probably half the weight of the Yakima, with the option of running one bike which is nice for me because most of the time its me and the dog. You can _*very easily*_ take it off, fold it up, and stick it in the trunk so some [email protected] doesn't hit it. However, I had left mine on and someone did hit it and 1up is sending me the replacement part for free.

In the grand scheme of money I have spent on this hobby, this rack is well worth the extra $150. I bet if I factor in the 10 minutes/trip I save using this rack... at an average engineering consulting fee I make that $150 back in less than 6 months. No question.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

How far apart are the trays? With my T2, I like keeping them really far apart (and slightly un-centered) to avoid the handlebar-seat clash. That's why I don't like the others that have a fixed distance. I like the 1UP but raising lowering the adjustable posts (at base; not just the seat) is a pain. The trays are not at the same height- maybe that helps some?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The trays are also very long. You can move the bikes back and forth. There is no issue with the bikes interfering with each other. 

J.


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## BlueMountain (Nov 8, 2006)

When I tried one last year, it did not fit my 29er well at all- was too low down on the wheel.  A little upward lifting force would let the bike release from the rack. Have they lengthened the arms or anything?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I don't know. You'd have to give them a call. The change would be simple.

J.


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## Dogbrain (Mar 4, 2008)

Those are Kenda Nevegal 2.2 29ers in my pics. It says 2.2 but they're fatter than my Rampage 2.35. There is room to spare on each side. The bike seems pretty solid in there to me... granted I have not really yanked on it to try and break it loose. I have a hard time imagining the bike coming out of them under any reasonable transportation scenario.


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## dnlwthrn (Jan 26, 2006)

racerwad said:


> People keep talking about the "cost" of the 1up rack and I wonder how often they have more than one bike on their rack? I know I have never *needed* to carry another bike since my partner doesn't ride and I usually ride alone. If my wider ever changes her mind then I'll buy an add on then. I had a roof rack and I only had a single tray on that, too. Doing the math, a complete roof setup was over $500 for a single bike setup. Doesn't seem too affordable, comparatively.
> 
> Anyhow, I agree with the poster above that 1up USA seems to have established their niche and aren't too interested in competing directly with the big manufacturers.
> 
> A


I hardly ever transport FEWER than 3 bikes, sometimes up to 5 in my vehicle. So for me, I'm looking at $300 for the base, and then another $600 for 3 more add-ons. I'm sorry, but that's just not worth $900. Yes its slick, easy to use, no plastic, etc., but I'd rather spend the extra $$ on bike parts or gear. A T2 rack with the 2 bike add-on is almost $300 cheaper.


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## BlueMountain (Nov 8, 2006)

Good to know- I am looking for a third rack of this type (tray-type) and this one looks interesting.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

dnlwthrn said:


> I hardly ever transport FEWER than 3 bikes, sometimes up to 5 in my vehicle. So for me, I'm looking at $300 for the base, and then another $600 for 3 more add-ons. I'm sorry, but that's just not worth $900. Yes its slick, easy to use, no plastic, etc., but I'd rather spend the extra $$ on bike parts or gear. A T2 rack with the 2 bike add-on is almost $300 cheaper.


And difficult to put on and take off easily. For us, that would mean it wouldn't get used. There is no way my wife can put on the T2 for 4 bikes by herself. I believe that weighs near 80lbs.

So, what is cheaper? The rack that that costs more that gets used all the time or the cheaper one that never gets used because of it's size and weight?

It's not worth it _to you._

Which one would you buy if money were not an issue at all?

J.


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## dnlwthrn (Jan 26, 2006)

Well, that's a question I'd LOVE to have to answer. But until money is not an issue, I'll stick with my statement above. 

Like I said, it is a slick rack with lots of positives. I just don't see a 4 bike version of it being worth $900.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

If money weren't an issue, which is the better rack? 

That doesn't mean you have to buy one. Just which do you see as better from a feature perspective?

J.


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## dnlwthrn (Jan 26, 2006)

To be honest, I think the 1Up rack could be awesome. However, I've not had a chance to actually use it. On the other hand, I've used the T2 rack quite a bit and feel comfortable with its design. The question of how well the 1Up rack holds the bikes is still in my mind, and probably won't be answered without actual experience with it.

The issue of installing and removing it is probably the biggest potential problem, but I haven't had any issues with the weight of the T2.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I'd like to see them reduce the cost too but I'd guess that means China mfg instead of in WI.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Instead of starting another redundant thread I just wanted to echo the sentiments of the other 1up owners now that I've finally gotten mine. 

In a word, the rack is: amazing. Its fit and finish is lightyears ahead of my Thule roof products and the Saris and Yakima hitch racks I've seen with my two eyes. I can't compare it to the Kuat. I doubt that they are as light or well built.

Cost is definitely an issue if you know you'll be carrying more than one (and esp painful if you need to carry four). Personally, I saved money by going with the 1up since I don't need more capacity. In the short-term, my Honda Fit has plenty of internal capacity to carry another bike or two and the riders to ride them.

FWIW, YMMV, etc, etc.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

JohnJ80 said:


> and finally, tray options that can be either roof top or hitch mounted
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do they sell a kit for that? Can not find one.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Mkey, parted with $299 for the first tray, will wait on their answer about the roof capable extension. That is exactly what is needed, as my R-class does not have a hitch, and I only occasionally would need a roof rack on it. Main rack will live on Odyssey.

I like the fact that I can use it with only a single lightweight tray and quickly detach it and throw into car if not in use. Semi-permanent heavy racks did _not_ appeal to me.

So i would need a roof-mountable tray, and foldable tray in addition.. Pricy, but seems quite worth it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Mine was the first production one. They were going to offer them on the website. I'm sure you can get it just by calling them. Now THAT's customer service in my book.

J.


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## scoutcat (Mar 30, 2008)

i think when you add in the cost of locks for the t2 arms and the hitch lock the prices are much closer.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

scoutcat said:


> i think when you add in the cost of locks for the t2 arms and the hitch lock the prices are much closer.


They do not seem to be directly comparable, from what I understood. I have tried to play with T2 and other, and did not enjoy the handling and storage. Not very concerned with weight, I am sufficiently strong, but the logistics of taking it off and storing.. And I want my wife to be able to take it off - and she is not a weightlifter..

If I get this roof mountable tray, this will more then cover the price difference. I was ready to order Yakima Highroller in addition to a hitch rack for our van. Now that i would need to bring my daughters bike in addition with mine..


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I agree with the handling and storage aspects. I've used a Saris and Yakima hitch racks. They held the bikes fine but were more of a pain than the 1up to remove, store, and reinstall. 

I also dig the blue and red anodization on some of the components. Very NASA :thumbsup:

A


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## wankel (Mar 7, 2004)

Curmy said:


> Do they sell a kit for that? Can not find one.


I have been bugging them every few months on when the roof mount version will be available, and they keep saying they are working on them. Latest update said May.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Really. 

I mean, I have them right now. Hmm.

My feedback to them was to create a better rack to tray interface. The one they have nowi is fine, but it's a little fiddly to attach. It's the standard bolts with a plate around the bar kind of mount. They are pretty intent on mechanical design and perhaps they are looking at something that is easier to mount and faster. Not a huge deal either way, but would be nice.


J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

wankel said:


> I have been bugging them every few months on when the roof mount version will be available, and they keep saying they are working on them. Latest update said May.


Latest update said June. Dang. Oh, fine, will do with one tray for now.



1up USA said:


> We are waiting for the long tray material to arrive so we can make the roof trays. Check back in June we should have it available then.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Curmy said:


> Latest update said June. Dang. Oh, fine, will do with one tray for now.


That, and they apparently want to jack up the price a bit on that version.. That's annoying, I have assumed it would not cost any more.

Waiting for my base rack to arrive on Tuesday.



1up USA said:


> We are still working on the price so we can't accept a advanced order.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

How much more do they want to charge?

Presuming it's reasonable, there would be added cost. They have to drill and machine the slots in the bottom of the tray for mounting on the bars and there is the hardware kit that you need to physically mount it to the bars. Otherwise it requires the same identical hardware as for the hitch rack. So there is considerably additional changes.



J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

JohnJ80 said:


> How much more do they want to charge?
> 
> Presuming it's reasonable, there would be added cost. They have to drill and machine the slots in the bottom of the tray for mounting on the bars and there is the hardware kit that you need to physically mount it to the bars. Otherwise it requires the same identical hardware as for the hitch rack. So there is considerably additional changes.
> 
> J.


But then you do not have a folding mechanism.

Don't know; if they jack it up it would be much less of a deal. I kinda assumed based on your story that it would be the same.


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## eman2 (May 3, 2004)

So what's the verdict with these and their compatibility with 29r's?
Are bikes just as secure as they would be on a Thule T2 or Yakima?

Any one have any issues with similar size bikes or say a road bike and mountain bike interfering with each other because of spacing?

Thanks


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

eman2 said:


> So what's the verdict with these and their compatibility with 29r's?
> Are bikes just as secure as they would be on a Thule T2 or Yakima?
> 
> Any one have any issues with similar size bikes or say a road bike and mountain bike interfering with each other because of spacing?
> ...


I don't know if you are asking two separate questions about compatibility _and_ security, but I can answer the latter. I had a Sidearm roof rack (which has the same securing mechanism as the T2) and this is far better. That isn't to say the T2 is bad, because it isn't. It's just that this one is better. There is some wiggle due rotation around the headset but it's really minimal.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

racerwad said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?
> 
> Thanks!


Ordered them to fit my Fatbike...3.7" tires. They came w/ wider spacing and an extension to fit the effective 29" wheel (fits my regular 26 and 29er's fine too)


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Curmy said:


> But then you do not have a folding mechanism.
> 
> Don't know; if they jack it up it would be much less of a deal. I kinda assumed based on your story that it would be the same.


The only difference between folding and non-folding is cutting the tray. That's it. They both bolt on in the same places with the same hardware. The tray for mounting on the roof then is machined more to mate up with the roof mount kit.

I can't remember what it cost, but I bought the extra mount kit to mount the trays to the bars. Couldn't have been much because I don't recall the cost.

J.


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## Rumlan (Mar 22, 2010)

I just got one of these racks and I'm very happy with the rack itself. I had it shipped to Canada through UPS and got dinged with like a $70 UPS brokerage fee not including taxes. If your ordering from Canada I would suggest calling and asking them to ship through USPS or something other than UPS. Seemed like a pretty steep 'brokerage fee' to me. Live and learn I guess, racks great though!


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

29er FYI....I asked about the arms being 29er friendly and Cal told me they now can ship the rack with longer arms that work well with 29ers. Just have to specify it on the order form, in the comments section. The longer arms will work with the other tires sizes as well. 

I'm thinking that this is the rack I'm going with....over the Raxter and the Kuat NV.....


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It's a great rack and Cal is extremely helpful and flexible.

J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Got my base rack. Bolted on Drawtite in the morning, with my 20month old holding tools and getting under the Odyssey with me to his mother's disquietude.

I should say that all other tray racks are cheese, glad I researched this before following the crowd to Kuat or Thule T2. Difference of being able to just hook it up in under a minute - or fold it back and store it in a car when the bikes are off - is critical. Ability to have just one tray on is extremely convenient.  

It seems that in the long run it should be easy to maintain and repair if need arises.

Now I am bummed a bit that I did not know about availability of longer arms - and the delay of roof top compatible item. Well, at least I have a chance to order 29r compatible roof-top compatible addition.

As an engineer I am not sure about the main bolt that tray halves pivot around. But I guess that is good enough.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Curmy said:


> I should say that all other tray racks are cheese, glad I researched this before following the crowd to Kuat or Thule T2. Difference of being able to just hook it up in under a minute - or fold it back and store it in a car when the bikes are off - is critical. Ability to have just one tray on is extremely convenient.
> 
> As an engineer I am not sure about the main bolt that tray halves pivot around. But I guess that is good enough.


This definitely the response I had. After owning and using just about all the brands except Kuat I can't imagine owning anything else. The pictures on their website are absurd and even pics from other owners don't really do it justice.

As for the bolts which the trays pivot on-and I'm _not_ and engineer-it doesn't seem to me like they are under that much stress in normal use, right? Also, since the components are all replaceable, maybe you could "trade-in" your 26er arms for 29ers?

Andy


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

racerwad said:


> Also, since the components are all replaceable, maybe you could "trade-in" your 26er arms for 29ers?


As my wife did not enjoy being put on 29r - even as she is 5'8" and definitely fits one - and I prefer 26 in long travel form myself - I will always have a 26r in the family, so I guess I will just get the second (and third after my daughter gets on 24" in a couple years) that is a bit more wide tires 29r compatible.

I agree that 1up's web site is not up to the level of their product - and misses some critical information - but that is much better then the other way around.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Good point about the site. I also checked out the bolts for the pivots. I assume you meant they are not very aesthetically pleasing, perhaps? Just curious more than anything.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Couple notes..

Weight of the base with the first tray was 24.5 lb / 11.1 kg.

I would definitely go for slightly longer arms. On my Kona Coiler - with longish wheelbase and high volume 2.4" tires - I would not mind if arms locked up just a tad further. It will most certainly be needed with a fat tired 29r. Stock arms are fine for most MTBs - like on my TransAm with 150mm fork (and longish wheelbase) and 2.25 tires, and certainly more then enough on 100mm travel Yeti with 2.1" tires..

Will check if I can retrofit longer arms - at least one - when ordering the second roof top compatible tray.



racerwad said:


> Good point about the site. I also checked out the bolts for the pivots. I assume you meant they are not very aesthetically pleasing, perhaps? Just curious more than anything.


I thought about how they are loaded and wear, but I better not speculate, as it seems to be a safe assumption that 1up folks know very well what they are doing.


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## thenextstep (May 5, 2010)

Thanks for the information.. :thumbsup:


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Curmy said:


> ...
> 
> Will check if I can retrofit longer arms - at least one - when ordering the second roof top compatible tray.
> ...


I look forward to seeing if that's an option. I like running nice wide tires and while the rack has never let me down, I'm all for more security.


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## dlcrow (Sep 28, 2008)

I have a question about the bike stability while on the road using the 1up rack. Everyone seems to be discussing the weight and ability to quickly and easily install and remove the rack. How well does the rack support and stabilize the bikes while in transport. To me, that's the primary concern. A nice, new bike is not cheap, and $500 bones for a good rack is a small price to pay for a secure ride (not security from theft, but secure as in stable).

My question is how well do bikes ride on the rack? And what is the mechanism that holds the bike to the rack, the pressure from the "rollers" pushed against the tire?? Any chance of the bikes coming off, assuming the rack is installed and used correctly, and no abnormal outside influence?

Thanks for those who can provide input.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

dlcrow said:


> I have a question about the bike stability while on the road using the 1up rack. Everyone seems to be discussing the weight and ability to quickly and easily install and remove the rack. How well does the rack support and stabilize the bikes while in transport. To me, that's the primary concern. A nice, new bike is not cheap, and $500 bones for a good rack is a small price to pay for a secure ride (not security from theft, but secure as in stable).


Bike is held by the rollers on the tire. It does not look like it is going anywhere. I will be utterly surprised if it fails in any form to hold the bike in place. Glancing in the rear view mirror when riding on a local serpentine road seemed to show that everything was dead solid. There is some minor visible flex in the arms and the rack if you push and pull your bike, and I think it is a good thing to cushion the road rattle.

It certainly feels like a better way to hold bikes that all the hanging racks that interfere and snag with cables - and if you use that bar that goes in between the stem and the seat it does not feel safe again carbon seat rails and adjustable seatpost - if you have one. Wheel do not hang and rotate, bikes do not bump against each other, etc..

On long trips I will clip a bungee cord from one arm to another to soothe my paranoia about tire deflating. It would still probably hold fine with a deflated tire - but I also do want a slightly longer arm to push it a bit further for a long wheelbase fat tire bike..


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## CheapWhine (Dec 16, 2005)

*How solid is the connection between rack and hitch?*

How solid is the connection made between the "expander ball" and the hitch? From the on-line description, it seems like turning the "anti-theft" Allen screw presses the ball against the inside of the hitch, so the friction between the ball an hitch is all that holds the rack on. Their claim is that there is little "pull out" strength needed, which makes sense when compared with a trailer. I understand about the shear strength of the traditional pin, but I am not really clear on how the expander ball remains solidly connected after all of the bumps and twists that inherently occur while driving a few hundred miles on even a good road. Anything that reduced the friction at this junction (ice, grease, etc.) might also cause problems.

Other bolts that are subject to this type of vibration often have cotter pins or similar devices to prevent the bolt from rotating after it has been set. There does not seem to be anything like this on the anti-theft bolt. Even this solution would have no effect in situations where friction might be reduced.

Have I missed something about how this expander ball works? I (and the person behind me on the freeway) would hate to see several expensive bikes and an expensive rack "go rogue", so I would like to understand how this part of the system works.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

CheapWhine said:


> How solid is the connection made between the "expander ball" and the hitch? From the on-line description, it seems like turning the "anti-theft" Allen screw presses the ball against the inside of the hitch, so the friction between the ball an hitch is all that holds the rack on. Their claim is that there is little "pull out" strength needed, which makes sense when compared with a trailer. I understand about the shear strength of the traditional pin, but I am not really clear on how the expander ball remains solidly connected after all of the bumps and twists that inherently occur while driving a few hundred miles on even a good road. Anything that reduced the friction at this junction (ice, grease, etc.) might also cause problems.
> 
> Other bolts that are subject to this type of vibration often have cotter pins or similar devices to prevent the bolt from rotating after it has been set. There does not seem to be anything like this on the anti-theft bolt. Even this solution would have no effect in situations where friction might be reduced.
> 
> Have I missed something about how this expander ball works? I (and the person behind me on the freeway) would hate to see several expensive bikes and an expensive rack "go rogue", so I would like to understand how this part of the system works.


I haven't had any issues with the fitting system loosening at all. It's stupid strong. The rack has been in production for a while so I imagine that they've had other users beta test the system. In the few weeks I've had it I've probably put a few hundred loaded miles on the rack (on paved roads) and there hasn't been any loosening. I've taken the rack off once to put more reflective stickers because I'm nerdy like that. The bolt seemed as snug as the day I put it on. For the first few weeks I checked the bolt daily and there was never any variance in torque according to my racerwad torque wrench. I've called them a couple time with questions before and after purchase and they were helpful each time. I encourage you to give them a call and get it from the horse's mouth.

I'm going to test it on a road trip from WA to PHX later this summer but this weekend I'll be going down to Central OR (~250mi one way). I'll let you know how I fare. :thumbsup:


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## Dynastar (Oct 10, 2006)

What is preventing someone from just opening the quick realeases and taking your whole bike? It does not appear that the frame is very secure from a theft standpoint.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Dynastar said:


> What is preventing someone from just opening the quick realeases and taking your whole bike? It does not appear that the frame is very secure from a theft standpoint.


Your lock? I have a Yakima hanging rack which has three rubber straps holding the bike on, its pretty easy to remove those as well. My lock keeps it secure.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Dynastar said:


> What is preventing someone from just opening the quick realeases and taking your whole bike? It does not appear that the frame is very secure from a theft standpoint.


The only sort-of secure bike rack is the locking fork style (front wheel off). All other types that just hold the wheel...well, just holds the wheels (wheels come off..duh). A simple cable lock works for light protection.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

As the other posters have mentioned, the obvious answer is a lock. I've had a Thule SideArm and it's locks are laughable but they are convenient. My friend's Saris doesn't have any locks, either.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

CheapWhine said:


> How solid is the connection made between the "expander ball" and the hitch?


I would say - bulletproof. It ain't going anywhere.



Dynastar said:


> What is preventing someone from just opening the quick releases and taking your whole bike? It does not appear that the frame is very secure from a theft standpoint.


I have a cable that can be threaded through bikes and to a hitch. Enough to deter a casual thief. Against a pro - the ability to easily take the rack off, fold it and throw into car - and bikes either inside the car or in your hotel - is a much better defense then an integrated lock anyway.


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## nbwallace (Oct 8, 2007)

*Does the rack accept 29ers out of the box*

I tried to call 1up today but they haven't returned my call. I won a rack on ebay and I'm wondering if I need to order longer arms for my 29ers.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

nbwallace said:


> I tried to call 1up today but they haven't returned my call. I won a rack on ebay and I'm wondering if I need to order longer arms for my 29ers.


If you have large volume tires and especially a full suspension bike - with its longer wheelbase, I would think you want longer arms - I do.

My current plan is to get the second tray - once they release the roof mountable version with longer arms and swap one arm with the first tray. One standard and one longer on each should be fine.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

It's my understanding that it does accept 29ers out of the box. Someone here used it for theirs but having the longer arms would probably help. I'm thinking that I might do the same for my 26" since I have nice big tires.


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## zandr (Sep 21, 2008)

Just received mine yesterday. I ordered it with the longer arms. This rack is AMAZING. So well thought-out and put together. Even the shipping boxes are well designed!


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## Silvestri (Apr 2, 2009)

Rumlan said:


> I just got one of these racks and I'm very happy with the rack itself. I had it shipped to Canada through UPS and got dinged with like a $70 UPS brokerage fee not including taxes. If your ordering from Canada I would suggest calling and asking them to ship through USPS or something other than UPS. Seemed like a pretty steep 'brokerage fee' to me. Live and learn I guess, racks great though!


That's why I'm not buying a 1up. If a vendor insists on UPS to ship from the US to Canada, I won't be supporting them.

That's unfortunate, since the 1ups are so well designed.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Did you actually call them to discuss ways to ship it? 

J.


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## Dogbrain (Mar 4, 2008)

The pics I posted are of my 19" frame 29er with fat Kenda Nevegal's. It's in there solid and I don't ever worry about it, however I do feel like I'm probably close to the limit.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Dogbrain said:


> The pics I posted are of my 19" frame 29er with fat Kenda Nevegal's. It's in there solid and I don't ever worry about it, however I do feel like I'm probably close to the limit.


Full suspension and slacker head angle with 100mm+ fork would probably add an inch or two to the wheelbase - and that's where it can be too short. Especially with some of the fatter tires..


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## Silvestri (Apr 2, 2009)

Yes.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I just got a 1up rack the other day and used it in the 4 bike configuration for the first time today. I must be a real wuss as the flex I was seeing through the rear view mirror was giving me butterflies. Also, I noticed my rack is a little different than the ones in the picture with the Volvo. My blue locking tabs are on the same side as the slide release and the two interfere with each other when the rack is being broken down, no big deal though, I just need to remember to hold the blue locks in place while I fold the rack.

JohnJ80,

You appear to have had your rack for a while. Do you notice much vertical flex when driving? I see what appears to be 3 or 4 inches of vertical flex. Does the fear of catastrophic failure fade? If the rack were made of steel the flex wouldn't be nearly as unnerving as the aluminum makes me. Maybe I'm more familiar with steel than aluminum.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

edthesped said:


> ... I must be a real wuss as the flex I was seeing through the rear view mirror was giving me butterflies...


Yup 

In all seriousness, I wouldn't worry about the flex. The rack itself isn't moving as much as it appears (both in your mind and in real life). If you were to compare the construction between the 1up and other mainstream brands, the 1up is far superior in my experience.

Can you post pics of your rack? It sounds strange that the blue tabs are on the same side of the rack as the slide releases. Does this mean that the trays fold towards the rear of the car?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

All racks will bounce a bit. The 1upUSA flexes a lot less than most. Try some of those single beam steel racks and they wobble considerably more (and twist more). You also need to make sure you have it mounted enough in the receiver per the directions.

3-4" of vertical flex in a 4 bike configuration is nothing. Most racks have a lot more than that.

If you look at the construction of the 1UpUSA rack you will see that it is a redundant design. The main bar that comes out of the receiver goes through a hole in the cross members and is then welded in place. If the weld were to fail the rack would still not fall to the ground. The bar stock that remains in both the cross members and coming out of the receiver is quite stout and much stronger than is required. It is not going to fail either (or bend). 

J.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

OK, I was wrong about the locking tab location. They are the same as in the photos. I spoke with someone at 1up today and was told that they tested it in with 8 trays and a large person jumping on the end and it still didn't fail. He said he's never heard of one failing and said that I could take a video and send it to him to review if I wanted. I might just do that for grins. 

I guess I'll just refrain from looking in the rear view for a few trips then maybe the paranoia will fade.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Also, the movement in the vehicle that is causing the rack to move is also causing everything within the cabin (including you) to move. It might be exaggerated in your car; I know I have had vehicles where the rear view mirror was holding on for dear life most of the time.

If I were you, I would make a video, using as sturdy of a camera mount as possible. Even better if the cam had some sort of optical stabilization. Then send it to 1up like they asked and see what they say. Maybe they'll have some sort of improvements thanks to your research. Then their racks will be that much better than they already are.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

racerwad said:


> Also, the movement in the vehicle that is causing the rack to move is also causing everything within the cabin (including you) to move. It might be exaggerated in your car; I know I have had vehicles where the rear view mirror was holding on for dear life most of the time.
> 
> If I were you, I would make a video, using as sturdy of a camera mount as possible. Even better if the cam had some sort of optical stabilization. Then send it to 1up like they asked and see what they say. Maybe they'll have some sort of improvements thanks to your research. Then their racks will be that much better than they already are.


I'm pretty sure the rack will hold up just fine as many have been sold and unlike the Thule nothing has been written about failure.

In all of my reading I haven't seen anything written about the flex of the unit. If it's normal and it appears to be, perspective buyers should be aware of it so they aren't as unnerved as I was on the first use. I live in hilly Western PA and the roads are terrible so the flex of the rack is amplified with every rough road and pothole I traverse. As far as I'm concerned the rack is well worth the $$ and as a fabricator myself I have a fair understanding of what it takes to make something like this and I'll gladly pay more to keep a fellow American fabricator in business.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Got mine yesterday and popped it on my Grand Cherokee this morning.

First, I got the single-bike version. This rack is relatively expensive and I wasn't stoked that it took 10 days from date of order to date of delivery. If you're looking for knocks, that's all I've got.

The rack is gorgeous. It pops into my receiver very tight and close up to the bumper, which I like. Once torqued, the rack is super-tight in the receiver; zero slop. Slapped my El Guapo in and it's literally a no-brainer. Locks in tight.

I love the modularity of the rack. 90 percent of the time I'll just have one bike. I will buy an extension to carry a second bike when necessary. The craftsmanship on this piece of equipment is truly exceptional. It's pretty rare that you spend more $$ than you want to and are perfectly pleased with the result.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Still waiting on a roof mountable version. Got another promise it will be made soon.

The main tray performs flawlessly so far. Saves a lot of time and effort.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Yep. Just ran mine through a 2500 mile out and back to the mountains drive with 4 bikes on it. Hit some hellacious bumps with it at 80mph. Everything was fine.

J.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

I just placed an order for a 3 bike edition largely based on the positive posts here and the response from 1 up. I'm very much looking forward to checking this bad boy out. 

I'm a 1 bike guy about 90% of the time but there are rare times I carry 2-3 and I figured I might as well go for it in one swoop. I love being able to configure it how ever I want for what ever I want.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I am certain that you will have the same positive experiences that everyone else has had. I've put thousands of miles on mine and haven't had any issues.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I might add, and I'd do this with any bike where tire inflation controls some of the fit on the rack, I like to put a toe clip strap around the wheel and tray on the outer most bike. Never was an issue, but if you got a flat, you'd not have to worry at all. Cal at 1UpUSA says you don't have to worry anyhow, but I do it with all the racks like this (T2, Highroller on roof, etc..) for really long trips or trips where there is a big altitude change. I'm just a paranoid guy, I guess. For short trips, not an issue.

J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

JohnJ80 said:


> I might add, and I'd do this with any bike where tire inflation controls some of the fit on the rack, I like to put a toe clip strap around the wheel and tray on the outer most bike. Never was an issue, but if you got a flat, you'd not have to worry at all. Cal at 1UpUSA says you don't have to worry anyhow, but I do it with all the racks like this (T2, Highroller on roof, etc..) for really long trips or trips where there is a big altitude change. I'm just a paranoid guy, I guess. For short trips, not an issue.
> 
> J.


On a recent long trip I have clipped one arm into another with a bungee cord, passing it around bike's top tube. For that nice fuzzy feeling. I doubt it made any actual difference in security - but I have a bowl of various bungee cords in my garage - got to use them.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> I might add, and I'd do this with any bike where tire inflation controls some of the fit on the rack, I like to put a toe clip strap around the wheel and tray on the outer most bike. Never was an issue, but if you got a flat, you'd not have to worry at all. Cal at 1UpUSA says you don't have to worry anyhow, but I do it with all the racks like this (T2, Highroller on roof, etc..) for really long trips or trips where there is a big altitude change. I'm just a paranoid guy, I guess. For short trips, not an issue.
> 
> J.


Huh. I have never even thought of this contingency though I have used a small diameter cable as a tether in case of massive failure with new-to-me racks. I don't use it any more. When I have varying tire pressures (eg-hardpack one day and Duthie the next) I just adjust the pressure the arms put on the tires. I double check everything by pulling up on the saddle and stem. Usually, I am able to unload the rear suspension of my Fit so I haven't been concerned about the ability of the rack to retain my bike.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

oh, for sure. I'm just paranoid and overthink this stuff. Part of the reason is that when we go, the truck is so full of stuff you can barely see the bikes in the back. So, this way I just don't think about it anymore. It's a super easy fix and takes no time.

I have to tell you, the bikes were just solid on the rack all the way from the midwest to the mountains (1100 miles one way) at 80+mph. We hit a monster bump at really high speed (way too fast) on I-76 on the outskirts of Denver where there is road construction and a big bump between new and old pavement. Everything was fine.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I hope it didn't seem like I was dogging the toe clip strap idea...It is a good one and if you have no visibility, it's worth the piece of mind. Sometimes on the webz it's hard to remember that there are individual situations that dictate different choices. Anyhoo, I just got back from a ride that had 20ish miles on FS roads with plenty of potholes and washboard. No loss in bike retention tension (?) but I did hit a hole fast enough to flex the bike enough to get the handlebars to tap the rear window on my car. FWIW, it's a Fit and the bike has wide Azonic Strip bars. I should probably slow down, too.

A


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Oh, no worries. Like I said, I'm just paranoid.

Like the other hitch racks I've had, when you cantilever out all that weight on the end of a lever arm, you are going to get a bounce in the rack - there is just no way around it. 

J.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

*Getting mine Monday*

Can't wait to get mine. Picking mine up in Buffalo at our forwarding company during a family shopping trip.
I have no worries whatsoever after reading all the user reports here.
As to cost, not so much different than Kuat or Thule, at least up here in Canada that is.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Mine's been ordered for 8 days...I hope to get my 3 tray some day. I noticed 1Up likes to get paid since my card was charged 8 days ago, but they like to take their time to ship anything. 

I'm not overwhelmed by the service, I hope the rack lives up to it's billing.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

Wally
Mine was just under 2 weeks from time of order til Monday's UPS confirmation.
Apparently they were waiting in on some parts. Hopefully yours were waiting in on the same ones as mine.
If you haven't heard back give them a shout, which is what I ended up doing.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Great reviews


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yep. Just ran mine through a 2500 mile out and back to the mountains drive with 4 bikes on it. Hit some hellacious bumps with it at 80mph. Everything was fine.
> 
> J.


When you add additional trays do you tighten the nuts or just the cap screws? One nut is relatively easy to tighten but the other can only be turned 1/4 turn at a time.

Also, I had the opportunity to follow the wife while she had it set up with 2 bikes and the rack was rock steady going down the road. It looks really sweet going down the road too.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

I just happened to hit the 1Up website and see the announcement that they are out of stock on everything until August 9th. 

I know they are small but why charge someone when they know they can't deliver it? If they did take your money, then why not tell you they can't deliver? Their service is about as bad as it gets, pretty close to the point where I don't do business with them. Real close. 

It might be a great bike rack but there are others too....


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

To mount an extra tray, there are two coarse thread theft proof bolts you turn. You can turn them 1/2-3/4 turn at a time. Because they are coarse thread, you only have to make a couple of turns. Adding an extra tray, literally, can be done in well less than a minute.

@ocho - I'd give them a call. I've found their customer service to be nothing but top notch. Yes, they are a small company, but they follow through well.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Ocho-

I agree with your complaints. Were you advised of the delay when you ordered? I have had good experiences with them, both with their product and their service, but if I were you, I wouldn't hesitate to tell them how you feel.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

No, I wasn't advised and there wasn't a disclaimer on the web page saying they were out of stock. I actually went to the web page to look at something else and saw the disclaimer. That was a bummer. 

Yeah, when I get some time I'll try and call...searching for some tires too...


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> No, I wasn't advised and there wasn't a disclaimer on the web page saying they were out of stock. I actually went to the web page to look at something else and saw the disclaimer. That was a bummer.
> 
> Yeah, when I get some time I'll try and call...searching for some tires too...


I kept inquiring about roof compatible trays, and guy was quite responsive on the e-mail - but could not help, as they are apparently out of capacity to produce enough. My initial order for the first tray was shipped promptly. Would not knock on their customer service - they are just not very big.

Call them and check. Maybe it is on its way - they do not have a fancy tracking system.

Aug 9 is not that far down the line. My guess it would be worth the wait, but yeah, I completely understand your frustration. I am just as frustrated waiting for the second tray now.

Yeah, there are other racks, but now I would not want another.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

August 9th is right at 3 weeks from the time I ordered. All they had to do was say they were backed up on the 21st (a day later) and thats good customer service. Being smaller, they should be able to handle fundamental, personal tasks like that. But to charge someone's card and not even have product for 3 weeks and not tell them - thats not very good service. Not to me at least. I did try calling and got a nice customer service machine so I left a message. If I don't hear anything by days end, I'm afraid the love affair with 1Up is over for moi. I'll gladly take a product thats 90-95% of theirs for 100% decent service. 

And like you say, maybe my order snuck in under the out of stock condition so maybe its being packaged and will be shipped. If they call back or email me to tell that, it would be a nice gesture on their part.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> I'll gladly take a product thats 90-95% of theirs for 100% decent service.


I have not found a product that is even half as useful for me, but I guess you mileage may vary. I will keep waiting for roof compatible rack availability.

Did you ever order custom bike frames?


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Yeah, I've custom ordered lots of items in my life time (frames, rifles, audio gear, motorcycle engines, furniture) and the good guys communicate. Are they all good guys? No. But they don't get any more of my business if they aren't. And I try hard to do business with good guys, hence me ordering from 1Up after the reviews here. Besides, a 1Up Quik Rack isn't custom, its off the shelf. 

Key to customer service is communicating. People want to know whats happening. 

As far as product, I've carried bikes with my current rack and its always worked. I was looking for something different when I went looking and found 1Up. I'm only carrying 3 bicycles on the back of my car and there are lots of products that will allow me to do that. I have no idea how you carried bikes previously but in my mind the improvement offered by the 1Up is maybe 20-25% better - about the same to me for any style rack. I mean, not having a 1Up Quik-Rack isn't going to keep me awake nights. Its only a bike rack.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> . I have no idea how you carried bikes previously but in my mind the improvement offered by the 1Up is maybe 20-25% better - about the same to me for any style rack. I mean, not having a 1Up Quik-Rack isn't going to keep me awake nights. Its only a bike rack.


Other racks carry bikes just fine - it is removing and storing the rack when you do not need it what is important to me. Thule and Yakima and Kuat are way too heavy and big and pain in the ass to install.

Yes, it is only a bike rack. Not sure why your expectations are so high as far as communication. To me it would be only a mild annoyance. Good luck with other vendors.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Well, Its 6 pm here in the midwest and I have requested a refund due to their extremely poor customer service stemming from their lack of attention in answering their phone or emails. I gave them 2 days to refund the $697 or I will file a dispute. 

Harsh, eh? You bet. I have a zero tolerance level and while some people say no communication with a vendor supplier is a mild annoyance, thats cool. People like that have to be out there so places like 1Up can exist. I like up front, accessible people in my business dealings. I think 2 days is plenty for a refund, they took much less in charging me for something they couldn't deliver. 

Personally, I leave my rack on during my riding season...its there all the time. I just lower it and the tail gate to load things. No big deal. So removal and installation is no big deal. I'd see no difference if it was a Kuat...Raxter yes, since they don't tilt. 

Looks like a Kuat NV is in my future. Y'all enjoy those racks you have. Nice stuff indeed but not for me.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> Well, Its 6 pm here in the midwest and I have requested a refund due to their extremely poor customer service stemming from their lack of attention in answering their phone or emails. I gave them 2 days to refund the $697 or I will file a dispute.
> 
> Harsh, eh? You bet. I have a zero tolerance level and while some people say no communication with a vendor supplier is a mild annoyance, thats cool. People like that have to be out there so places like 1Up can exist. I like up front, accessible people in my business dealings. I think 2 days is plenty for a refund, they took much less in charging me for something they couldn't deliver.


"Extremely poor customer service" is straight up bullcrap. It is just you being overly demanding to a small vendor who could not keep up with production for a change. Hardly a reason for a hissy fit in my books.

Good luck - and your loss.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Bullcrap. Right. They never communicated one word to me after charging me and for your info, no one should charge until they ship - period. Then they never said they were out of stock - they should have communicated that. 

In your mind, I should just wait a month and if I hear nothing thats okay? They're small so they should be excused for simple courtesy and manners. BS dude. If you like to operate that way, you are in luck cause there are tons of places eager for your business. 

I don't see me being overly demanding in any way. They have $700 of my cash - and never said anything to me in over a week. Don't you think that if they could update their site to say the product is out of stock, they could have sent me an email? Made a call? I mean making a call takes about the same amount of time as it does to load a bike into their rack. Thats overly demanding? asking that they do that? 

I'm starting to think you must be 1Up or a shill for them.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Look at the Kuat NV and Sherpa as well. I'm sure you will run across the T2 and the Yak Holdup. I have owned the NV, T2, and the Saris Cycle On Pro. Kuat is small but CS is excellent. You can get 10%-15% off pretty easily...maybe even 20% off.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

Update!
I did hear from 1Up about 10 minutes ago. He said he was sorry for the poor service and issued my refund. Says my rack would have shipped tomorrow...yeah, tell me that in an email where he issues the refund. Instead of just calling and telling me before hand. Whether I believe the guy or not, I'd still rather do business with someone else. 

I think the rack is one of the best out there. Its just too bad the place is so poorly run. Anyway, we move on.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I was going to suggest that you exercise their return policy since you seemed to be so bummed, but it looks like you got it worked out. Sometimes you take a risk when you work with a small manufacturer.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> To mount an extra tray, there are two coarse thread theft proof bolts you turn. You can turn them 1/2-3/4 turn at a time. Because they are coarse thread, you only have to make a couple of turns. Adding an extra tray, literally, can be done in well less than a minute.
> 
> ...........
> J.


Do you tighten the nuts on the backside of the bolts as well or leave those loose? The instructions only mention tightening the theft proof bolts and makes no mention of the nuts. I see the nuts serving two different possible purposes, either keeping the bolts from being totally removed, or to lock the threads so the bolt doesn't back out. I've been tightening the nuts and the bolts but tightening the nut on left side of the tray shown in the picture below is a real PITA because the side of the tray interferes with the wrench.

Just to make sure everyone is clear, I'm referring to the nuts on the back side of these bolts...










OCHO, Sorry to hear about your trouble with 1UP but unfortunately issues like this can happen. Many things along the supply chain can affect 1UP's ability to maintain stock so even though they may have the capacity to do the work material availability may be an issue. I called after I received my rack with questions and got a live person right away and all of my questions were quickly addressed so I guess individual experiences my vary.

At a time when many U.S. manufactures have one foot in the grave and the other on a banana peel I'll try to support them as much as possible even if I have to pay a premium to do so. With regard to 1UP I'm very happy I did.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

People, my issue wasn't with stock availability. It wasn't in the wait or delay. I told Cal I was fine with that. My issue is in no communication. No returned calls, no returned emails, nothing. The guy NEVER got back to me except when I told him I was going to dispute the charges on my card. Magically, he emailed me and processed a refund. 

I work with small companies all the time, I have worked in several startups and I truly believe in supporting US manufacturers and small shops. I have a set of wheels being built now that I really don't need just to support a good guy, small shop in the upper midwest. He had a serious issue in his shop halting production but found time to tell me my wheels will be delayed slightly, was that okay. I've had parts built by other small manufacturers, frames, you name it and most communicate. 1Up decided to work differently. The guy might be a great engineer but he sucks in the business world. He deserves to go under if he can't handle it. 

Yeah, I heard all about the great customer service why do you think I forked over $700? For whatever reason, there was a lapse and I'm just not a tolerant type when it comes to people acting ignorant like that. You want my business, then act like it. I don't feel like I lost a thing either, its a bike rack...I have another on order already and will be just as happy. I'm 1.5 hrs from 1Up, maybe I'll take a ride up there on a bike and see what goes on, maybe not - I really don't care.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

The Kaut rack would have been my second choice but they didn't have a 4 bike option when I ordered my rack.  What did you end up going with anyway?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Ocho said:


> People, my issue wasn't with stock availability. It wasn't in the wait or delay. I told Cal I was fine with that. My issue is in no communication. No returned calls, no returned emails, nothing. The guy NEVER got back to me except when I told him I was going to dispute the charges on my card. Magically, he emailed me and processed a refund.
> 
> I work with small companies all the time, I have worked in several startups and I truly believe in supporting US manufacturers and small shops. I have a set of wheels being built now that I really don't need just to support a good guy, small shop in the upper midwest. He had a serious issue in his shop halting production but found time to tell me my wheels will be delayed slightly, was that okay. I've had parts built by other small manufacturers, frames, you name it and most communicate. 1Up decided to work differently. The guy might be a great engineer but he sucks in the business world. He deserves to go under if he can't handle it.
> 
> Yeah, I heard all about the great customer service why do you think I forked over $700? For whatever reason, there was a lapse and I'm just not a tolerant type when it comes to people acting ignorant like that. You want my business, then act like it. I don't feel like I lost a thing either, its a bike rack...I have another on order already and will be just as happy. I'm 1.5 hrs from 1Up, maybe I'll take a ride up there on a bike and see what goes on, maybe not - I really don't care.


I'd say that's pretty harsh and my experience is completely 180 degrees from yours. I base that on a lot of interactions with them both pre and post sales. So, I'd agree with your characterization about not being tolerant. Too bad we probably won't get the other side of this one either.

If you don't care, why would you ride over there to see?

J.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80,

Do you tighten the nuts on the backside of the bolts? If so how do you deal with the tight access on the left side of the rack?


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> .
> 
> If you don't care, why would you ride over there to see?
> 
> J.


Because the town, Plattville WI, is right in the area where we do a fair amount of motorcycle riding and bicycling...its sort of on the circuit so its not a big deal. The area is pretty rural, quiet.

The other side, if you can call it that, is his reference to being busy, so busy he "spends every waking hour" working on racks. Thats what he said. I just question how if he found time to answer my email and refund my money, he couldn't have put that same time to possibly better use by emailing me or calling me to give me a status. Thats all I asked for.

FYI, for people looking at something else...Kuat sent me back a note to reflect that their NV with the new 2 bike add-on is 80 lbs.!!! Crap, thats a lot of weight. I won't be going with an NV. I need a 3 bike rack and most everyone sells either 2 or 4 bike racks. Tough to find a 3 tray....so anyway thanks to you all for the reviews and information. Ride and smile people, see you around.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

I don't disagree with your premise that the vendor should have communicated better. I'll also say that my rack took 10 days from day of order until it arrived at my door, which I thought -- in 2010 at least -- was several days too many.

That said, the 1up is by far the best rack I've ever used and I'm glad I waited for it.

And, pardon me for saying so, if your telephonic/e-mail communication skills are similar to your posts on this thread, you probably came off like an arse. In my experience, no one will go out of their way to help someone who acts like that. But I could be totally offbase.

Good luck with whatever other rack you choose.


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## wcbikr (Jul 29, 2010)

Ocho,

I have the same issue as you. I ordered on 7/15/2010 and my credit card was charged immediately. I called last week to get a tracking number and was told that my product had not shipped due to a supplier issue but that the issue would be resolved and my unit shipped by this week (7/26). Then I noticed that they updated their site with the out of stock notice. I agree with you 100% that they should not charge until the product is shipped and they should notify pending orders of any delays. They were, however, very nice on the phone and since I do not intend to use the rack until 8/20 I will give them a few more days to ship my order. I will cancel my order if they do not ship it out soon.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

edthesped said:


> JohnJ80,
> 
> Do you tighten the nuts on the backside of the bolts? If so how do you deal with the tight access on the left side of the rack?


No.

What do you mean, "tight access on the left side of the rack"? You get a full half turn on the bolts and it only takes a few turns to tighten them down. Maybe I'm not understanding what you are asking.

J.


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## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

edthesped said:


> JohnJ80,
> 
> Do you tighten the nuts on the backside of the bolts? If so how do you deal with the tight access on the left side of the rack?


My understanding is no, you do not need to tighten the nuts. I think they are there to prevent you from fully removing and losing the special bolts.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> No.
> 
> What do you mean, "tight access on the left side of the rack"? You get a full half turn on the bolts and it only takes a few turns to tighten them down. Maybe I'm not understanding what you are asking.
> 
> J.


OK this isn't even close to scale but it may help illustrate what I'm trying to ask. When I assemble two trays I tighten the security bolt (socket head cap screw) with an allen wrench, this part is quick and easy, on the back side there is a nylock nut as well and it is a real pita to tighten with a wrench and a socket will not fit on the nut due to interference issues with the tray. Do you tighten the nylock nut too or just leave it loose? The instructions only show the bolt getting screwed down with the allen wrench and makes no mention of the nylock nut on the back side. I hope this kind of clarifies my question.

Thanks


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

edthesped said:


> OK this isn't even close to scale but it may help illustrate what I'm trying to ask. When I assemble two trays I tighten the security bolt (socket head cap screw) with an allen wrench, this part is quick and easy, on the back side there is a nylock nut as well and it is a real pita to tighten with a wrench and a socket will not fit on the nut due to interference issues with the tray. Do you tighten the nylock nut too or just leave it loose? The instructions only show the bolt getting screwed down with the allen wrench and makes no mention of the nylock nut on the back side. I hope this kind of clarifies my question.
> 
> Thanks


I don't touch the nylock nut...I think it just prevents the bolt from coming off. Adding/removing trays takes me no more than 20 seconds. Just tighten/loosen the 2 bolts.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

This is a little more accurate of a view. I prefer to tighten the nut down to eliminate the possibility of the bolt coming loose but then again nylock nuts aren't made to be tightened and loosened all of the time either.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

cytoe said:


> I don't touch the nylock nut...I think it just prevents the bolt from coming off. Adding/removing trays takes me no more than 20 seconds. Just tighten/loosen the 2 bolts.


Thanks, I think I have to shake my design for steel mill use mentality and enjoy the rack.


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## wcbikr (Jul 29, 2010)

*Update*

I received my order today 7/30 which was a pleasant surprise. On the phone, 1UP said it would ship 7/26 and it did.

Ocho - it does seem like you missed yours by one day but I agree there should be better (some) communication by the company with regards to when the items ship, etc. I never received an e-mail saying the items shipped but I am glad it did and I am excited to use this rack.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I used the rack in the 3 bike configuration this weekend. I didn't tighten the nylock nuts this time and the capscrews stayed nice and tight. Once again I was able to follow the wife home and there was minimal flex in the rack as viewed from another vehicle. I really want to get 4 bikes on and see what it looks like. My son is home from camp this week so maybe I'll get the chance in the next few days. I can install the rack and bikes in less than 10 minutes casually. That includes moving my car onto the street, my driveway is pretty steep, carrying the rack and individual trays to the car and loading the bikes. The rack is definitely easy to use. At the trail I can load or unload 3 bikes in less time than it takes others to load one bike on their trunk mount racks.

I'm really happy I kept the rack now.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I found that after the last trip we did - 2500 miles with 4 mountain bikes on the back - the screws that hold the add-ons together were just as tight, if not tighter, than when I put the rack on before leaving. One should have no worries about those loosening.

J.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

Just got my 1up rack in the mail today! Man that thing is a fine peice of machinery although it was a bit heavier than I was expecting, but it's definitely built well.

They didn't ship my order out right away either...took them about a week and a half after I called. No big deal, but I was anxious to get the rack. 

Can't wait to use it. I think I'm going to like this thing!


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> Update!
> I did hear from 1Up about 10 minutes ago. He said he was sorry for the poor service and issued my refund. Says my rack would have shipped tomorrow...yeah, tell me that in an email where he issues the refund. Instead of just calling and telling me before hand. Whether I believe the guy or not, I'd still rather do business with someone else.
> 
> I think the rack is one of the best out there. Its just too bad the place is so poorly run. Anyway, we move on.


So you threw down a hissy fit and will be stuck with an inferior product for a long time - that you will get no sooner then 1up.

Smart decision making. Good luck.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

No, good decision making. I don't think 1Up is superior given their crap customer service. To me service is part of the whole equation. You can blindly love the guy, the product, or what ever. I give a crap. I'm happy dude, and happier yet I didn't support a scumbag operation. End of story.

Do you really think he was ready to ship? Don't you think if that was the case he would have answered the previous phone calls or the emails? I think he was full of it and had nothing to ship.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

Again, it's too bad because it seems yours was just missed out as mine was also shipped on the 26th, last Monday.
I did not find this out til I emailed them and the reply was I was sent the UPS confirmation, which I hadn't been. I received it within 10min which shocked me because up until then, replies usually never reached back to me until a day later. Again, might not have ever received the confirmation if I never emailed, so I could coordinate a trip to pick it up. 
I too run a small business (3-4 employees) and sometimes "things" meaning clients, with no malice towards any particular client, get out of hand/control due to either inventory or queue process like ours, crap happens and occasionally someone will get put out or thrown to the end of the line. I know it's not good business practice but in our case, I like to keep my customers abreast of any sensitive timelines so they know what to expect. It just happens and you hope to yourself it doesn't happen often. That can't be said of all businesses because if you have to wear too many hats, something needs to give and it looks like 1Up needs to follow up better in the future in communication during the order process because it seems like they are right on top of post sales customer sales.
It was received last Thursday and I picked it up Monday.
All in all it is a very nice rack, does what it's suppose to do and look unique from all others out there.
Maybe we just need to get off of Ocho's back and be glad he's getting his soon.

cheers


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

hmto, thanks. 

Look everyone. I had a bad experience with 1Up. Its a case of where I just don't do business with a company like that. I know that the vast majority of you all have had a wonderful experience but for what ever reasons, mine didn't work out. 

Yeah, I'm bummed. I did a ton of research into bike racks before deciding on the 1Up. I communicated with Cal prior to making my decision. He responded in a timely fashion and I felt good about ordering. I ordered and after a fair amount of time I emailed, then called, then emailed then called to try and see if I could find out whether my rack was one of the "wait until August 9th" racks or not. I wanted to use the rack for a planned trip. I got no response - nothing. Not until I emailed that I was going to contact my credit card company and lodge a dispute. I fully explained the thing about communicating in my emails to 1Up and admitted that I could live with a delay but could I just know? After repeatedly asking I finally got very frustrated and asked myself if this place was where I wanted to buy from. What if I had a problem with my rack when and if I ever did get it? 

I still think the 1Up is a great designed product but its not the only one out there. I count the service I get as an equal portion of the product whole. I didn't get good enough service to warrant me spending the money I had so I asked for a refund. The refund was prompt, I'm okay with it and I went ahead and bought a rack which fits my needs perfectly. 

Okay? Done? Enjoy your Quik-Racks and I will enjoy mine. No need to bash one another's choices.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Ocho said:


> No, good decision making. I don't think 1Up is superior given their crap customer service. To me service is part of the whole equation. You can blindly love the guy, the product, or what ever. I give a crap. I'm happy dude, and happier yet I didn't support a scumbag operation. End of story.
> 
> Do you really think he was ready to ship? Don't you think if that was the case he would have answered the previous phone calls or the emails? I think he was full of it and had nothing to ship.


It's important to note that this in only in your case and it has not been the case with pretty much everyone else. We've seen threads here where every other rack guy has had a case where something went wrong and it wasn't solved promptly. However, these are all isolated instances and it's really not fair to condemn a company on the basis of one isolated incident. It's also useful to remember, presuming everyone worked for a company at some point in time, that every company screws up or fails to meet expectations at some point and so did the company you worked for. Did that make them, and you, "full of it" or a "crap" company? Answer: no.

So in this case that does not make them a "crap"company or their entire customer service "crap" either. It means they didn't do it to meet *your* expectations in one instance - nothing more. If that happens all the time, then the blanket statement applies.

You choose to portray 1UpUSA, and particularly Cal, as "full of it." Not so, he just didn't meet your expectations for communication in this one instance. That's it. Nothing more and I'd have to take exception that you can make such a statement and try and be "done" with it. You experience is largely singular.

J.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

You can spin it how ever you like but it did happen. Who knows, maybe this is trend? I can only relate my experience. Statistically, its an anomaly but this was just a review of my rack which didn't happen due to a failure on the manufacturers part. Not a statistical analysis. 

And yes I am done with this thread and it is finished. Over.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Exactly my point. one instance does not constitute a trend. See lots of it? then maybe. Otherwise, it's a good thing to just portray it as one event instead of saying "crap customer service" as if it happens every time.

j.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

But it did happen to me every time. The service I got certain wasn't good. So does "less than real good" service sound better to you? 

Jesus. Get over it. I don't think Cal is losing any sleep over my refund, why are you?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Ocho said:


> But it did happen to me every time. The service I got certain wasn't good. So does "less than real good" service sound better to you?
> 
> Jesus. Get over it. I don't think Cal is losing any sleep over my refund, why are you?


We most certainly could not care less about your refund.

We just pointing out that our experience was different - for the education of others. They can draw conclusion what experience was more relevant for their purchasing decisions.

I am still waiting on a roof compatible tray version. That's the reality of a small manufacturer.


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## Ocho (Dec 1, 2009)

I hope this all helps someone. Remember, I used your experiences and the positive experiences of others to make my decision to purchase.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Racks are available, purchased one and now just waiting for shipping.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It isn't just small companies. iPHones are out at 3-4 week leadtimes. iPads are an on again, off again supply situation. 

In this recession, only a fool is holding inventory. Especially this time of year in the bike industry, maybe you've noticed all the sales?

J.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Read lots of posts, and decided the 1 up was the right rack for me. Order it exactly 2 weeks ago and received it was promised today. Nice machined aircraft grade aluminum. I should know, I spent 20 years in the Air Force and I know how important quality is. Mounting was not as easy as others say but not due to the rack itself, I was just being very careful while installing. Would work perfect on many vehicles, not perfect on my Honda CRV because my door opens to the side and not up. I will test is out real soon, hope the bike stays on. It's a 29 er and it fits no issues at all. Now for the ultimate question, security is always an issue. I teach at a high school and would like to carry the bike to school so I can ride afterwards on days I do have afterschool activities. What is the best option for locking the bike to the rack ensuring anti theft. I'm thinking hardened steel cable and pad lock. Any ideas?


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

Congrats on the rack, mine is 3 weeks old and loving it. I have people wait for me at the trailhead parking lot just to ask about it as they are somewhat rare up here in Canada.
As MTBers they love the blue and red bits.
Safety, depends what kind of standing cred you have with the school kids I would think, especially high school age. Me, I'd take it in to class if possible or if you're tight with janitors, leave it somewhere out of sight.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Go here- the heavy-duty chains are probably the toughest. They have several options available.

http://www.lockitt.com/chain.htm

I have an Abus armored cable lock which is probably not as tough as the heavy-duty chains but a guy with a bolt cutter could not do anything but cut the vinyl cover.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I used a hardened chain and ABUS lock to secure my bike for hours on end during my 3k mile road trip. Never once had an issue with bike security, either with the my locking system or the rack itself.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Best option is to bring it in the school, I have a room to store uniforms so not an issue keeping it there. I would rather not have to do that but thinking about it makes me realize how covienient it would be for someone to take since they know I am captivated in the school for long periods of time and have no view of my bike or car throughout the day. Chain and lock make sense, is there not a cable that is hardend steel. Looks like google will have to be my friend today.


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## CheapWhine (Dec 16, 2005)

Definitely take it inside If you teach at a high school. A heavy chain may save the frame and one of the wheels, but all the small bits are easy game. Just one disgruntled student or showoff with Allen wrenches or cable cutters will ruin your day.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Didn't think about that, and since I do park by the vocational area it would be very easy. Not so worried about my current students, however students no longer in the program and others are the ones that I am concerned with.


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## tazdevl (May 10, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> he just didn't meet your expectations for communication in this one instance. That's it. Nothing more and I'd have to take exception that you can make such a statement and try and be "done" with it. J.


John, that may be so but in most cases a vendor only gets 1 opportunity to get it right, especially with premium products. These racks are nice and well designed, but in the end, it's the product AND the service that sells it. I don't think attacking him for a poor experience that was obviously the fault of the vendor makes any sense. It's the perception he was left with and he's entitled to it.

I personally haven't bought one of their racks because I felt the communication was rather poor both by email and phone... I was going to pick up 4 trays. Customers and potential customers deserve good service, which is even more critical when word of mouth has a much greater impact on the success of a product.

I do agree with the sentiment that the charge should not be put through until the product is ready to be shipped, based on principal more than anything else.

In the end though, it's just a bike rack, albeit a nice one.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

One datapoint does not equal a trend. Blanket statements condemning an entire company on the basis of one experience are not responsible. Keeping it in context is important. Besides that, I thought we argued that all out a month or more ago.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

One datapoint does not equal a trend. Blanket statements condemning an entire company on the basis of one experience are not responsible. Keeping it in context is important.

J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

tazdevl said:


> I personally haven't bought one of their racks because I felt the communication was rather poor both by email and phone... I was going to pick up 4 trays. Customers and potential customers deserve good service, which is even more critical when word of mouth has a much greater impact on the success of a product.


Dang, people are seriously spoiled in U.S.

When I want something, I just go and get it. I go not expect a shoulder rub and a vase of flowers on top. No need to go bonkers over a phone call.

Now, the real problem is that is no sign of roof top compatible trays that they thought they will get back in June. They answered my e-mails promptly allright. :madman:

I would much rather have an item in hand then a pleasant conversation.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

I have had my 1Up for just over a week, and all I can say is wow. It does what I expected and does it looking very cool. Saw a Kuat today on the back of a Exterra, very cool looking and it had integrated locking cables. But the wheel holders were plastic, well, that's what they looked like. If so, good for this year but after that I am pretty sure here in Tennessee the summer heat and sun will have their way with them. 1 Up, all aluminum. No such issues! Yes, after I ordered it they did take my money and no I did not hear from them. WHo cares? All that really matters is I have a bike rack that was designed to last at least my lifetime.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

I received mine today and hooked it up in about 10 minutes which includes one attachment for a second bike. Took my time to make sure all parts were working. This rack is as advertised, high grade material, looks and feels strong, should last forever. Easily mounted to hitch and easy to mount bike. Bikes seem pretty secure, went on a test drive at about 65mph top speed to test for vibration or any loose ends. None found. My first experience with this rack was with my buddy who recommended it.

And FWIW to the guy who received bad customer service from 1upUsa, sorry dude, seems like your situation sucked, but I kept in contact with them because of your post and they were pretty awesome to deal with. They do charge you though before its ready for shipment.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

I've had my rack on my car for a few weeks now and I get comments on it all the time. Definitely the best rack out there in every single category (except price of course, but the value makes up for that). There's nothing more functional, better looking, more durable or better designed for longevity.

As for the comments in this thread regarding bad customer service, I don't think it's going to have any effect on 1Up's reputation. Anyone reading this thread can see that those are unwarranted criticisms and that the quality of this rack is bar-none.


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## boy1dr (Feb 27, 2006)

I've had nothing but incredible customer service from 1upusa. They were fast and courteous. Resolved my issue and exceeded my expectations.


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## tazdevl (May 10, 2005)

Curmy said:


> No need to go bonkers over a phone call.


Who's bonkers bud? I just elected not to buy it based on the lack of communication. Pretty simple and unemotional.

Sounds like my experience and the other are outliers. In the end gang... it's just a bike rack and not worth getting worked up over.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I'm really glad this was posted after I purchased mine or I may have passed on 1up and purchased a different brand. I still find the view from the rear view mirror a bit disconcerting so I try not to look. Loading and unloading bikes is amazingly simple but I still have to adjust the horizontal position of the bikes to minimize interference. I typically get 3 bikes loaded for every one bike loaded by others at the trail head without effort. 

I recently had one problem though. One of the locking clips was sticky and didn't fully engage. I was driving down the highway and saw the outermost bike moving side to side, I figured it was paranoia on my part and refused to look back anymore. When I got home one of the wheel support arms was about 4" away from the wheel and the bike was able to freely roll side to side on the rail, the locking clip did not fully engage and was a bit "sticky", didn't freely pivot about the bolt. I loosened up the fastener on the locking clip and now make sure they are fully engaged by pulling outward on the wheel support arms after I load the bikes to ensure the locking clip has properly engaged.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

edthesped said:


> I still find the view from the rear view mirror a bit disconcerting so I try not to look.


Same here. I get nervous watching the bikes bounce up and down everytime I hit bumps or undulations in the road just right. I know "it's supposed to bounce like that", but sometimes it just looks like it's going to be too much to handle. Knock on wood....hasn't been too much to handle yet.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels that way. Whenever I look in the rear view mirror I try to think of the wing of an airplane, they bounce all over the place during taxi, take off and landing and thankfully, rarely fail.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Are these still on 2 week lead time? I'm thinking of placing an order for one, but it's going to suck waiting for it to ship if that's still the case. Does anyone have a good picture facing the rear of the vehicle of what the rack looks like with only 1 tray and folded up? I'm going to put it on my Dodge Charger. I like the idea of only using 1 tray and having a low profile rack when folded up. 95% of the time I'm just carrying 1 bike.


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## rockhop (Mar 22, 2006)

It says in red type to allow two weeks for your order to ship. I don't know what all the confusion is about.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

rockhop said:


> It says in red type to allow two weeks for your order to ship. I don't know what all the confusion is about.


It's not confusion. I get it. I'm willing to wait if it's as good of a rack as everyone says. I was just saying it will suck. I'm an impatient man. 

I just wish they made em in black to match my black car.


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## skoor (Jun 9, 2009)

My experience with 1UP has been stellar. I have had the rack for a year and wanted the new longer 29er swing arms. They sent out a prepaid shipping label for both base and extensions. Kept it just for a few days and sent back the upgrade rack and some stronger end base plate for 3+ racks.. Absolutely no cost to me and free shipping both ways. Just amazing service. 

On the other hand, I am having some issues with a bike light CC return and most folks love the service Go figure. Perhaps these small companies just have off periods/vacations.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> It's not confusion. I get it. I'm willing to wait if it's as good of a rack as everyone says. I was just saying it will suck. I'm an impatient man.
> 
> I just wish they made em in black to match my black car.


It does suck to have to wait, I agree. However, it is totally worth it. If no one has gotten around to it, I'll get a pic of a single folded up. I did see one someplace so try searching the old threads. It is very nice how low profile it is.

I also agree with the color option. Since the rack comes clear anodized with some colored bits, why not another color? I mean, it would cost more but I bet they could charge a lot more than their production cost; something tells me cyclists are just vain enough to pay the extra cost 

Also, I wouldn't worry about the movement. It really is minimal. A friend had my rack on their car and I followed it (with my bike) for the better part of 200+ miles on not so good roads and you couldn't see anything moving or shaking. It just seems worse in the car.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

racerwad said:


> It does suck to have to wait, I agree. However, it is totally worth it. If no one has gotten around to it, I'll get a pic of a single folded up. I did see one someplace so try searching the old threads. It is very nice how low profile it is.
> 
> I also agree with the color option. Since the rack comes clear anodized with some colored bits, why not another color? I mean, it would cost more but I bet they could charge a lot more than their production cost; something tells me cyclists are just vain enough to pay the extra cost
> 
> Also, I wouldn't worry about the movement. It really is minimal. A friend had my rack on their car and I followed it (with my bike) for the better part of 200+ miles on not so good roads and *you couldn't see anything moving or shaking. It just seems worse in the car*.


+1. Good description.

J.


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## skoor (Jun 9, 2009)

If they did offer colors, I would still chose what they are shipping today. The Type II anodizing, which can do all the colors, it really a pretty fragile surface as compared to the Type III, which is typically black or green, and a lot more expense too. 

Over time, the edges and certainly the trays would remove the TYPE II color and just looked awful,IMHO. The base AL might look boring, but it never get any worst looking. And really fit my desire for fuction over fashion. And one they I did not like about the KUAT painted surfaces- too fragile. Dirt wheels are like sandpaper.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

skoor said:


> If they did offer colors, I would still chose what they are shipping today. The Type II anodizing, which can do all the colors, it really a pretty fragile surface as compared to the Type III, which is typically black or green, and a lot more expense too.
> 
> Over time, the edges and certainly the trays would remove the TYPE II color and just looked awful,IMHO. The base AL might look boring, but it never get any worst looking. And really fit my desire for fuction over fashion. And one they I did not like about the KUAT painted surfaces- too fragile. Dirt wheels are like sandpaper.


Well I just want black to match my black Dodge Charger.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Well I just want black to match my black Dodge Charger.


That's what is good about this particular rack - you just take it off when it is not used with a bike, fold it, and keep in the garage (or trunk). No need to ride around with a 100lb contraption hanging on your car all the time.

I am rather sure that if I had a permanently attached rear rack on my Odyssey, my wife would back into somebody with it.  Takes me a minute to put 1up on only when needed - no messing with hitch pins either.

Now, where is my roof compatible tray? How did JohnJ80 score his pair?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Curmy said:


> ................
> 
> I am rather sure that if I had a permanently attached rear rack on my Odyssey, my wife would back into somebody with it.  Takes me a minute to put 1up on only when needed - no messing with hitch pins either.
> 
> ...............


Amen to that...

I always take the rack off of our Odyssey when not in use.

Unfortunately our 2000 Odyssey's tranny is crapping out so we're patiently waiting for the 2011's to come out.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

edthesped said:


> Amen to that...
> 
> I always take the rack off of our Odyssey when not in use.
> 
> Unfortunately our 2000 Odyssey's tranny is crapping out so we're patiently waiting for the 2011's to come out.


slightly off topic...
LOL, not really, sorry to hear as my 99' Odyssey also bit the tranny dust this past March. It was the second one and seeing that some of the 05's and on also had the same problem I stayed away.
Driving the new swagger wagon (siena) and loving it.

As I've had more time with the rack, it is slightly more convenient compared to my last Yak. I still need to carry a tool to remove, and if reefed on there is a ton of force required to remove, especially the additional carriers as they do not seem to have the same amount of play in them when attaching on. It's a heavy "snap" and then released so be prepared or you get a nasty bruise on your wrist somewhere.
But then you do feel that they will never come off, seeing that a lot of us have worried about the security of the rack staying put. All in all I love the convenience of not having to try to hoop a fully onto small bars to fit.


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## Prexus2005 (Mar 18, 2005)

I've been asking 1UpUSA about a black version and the word I got since June was that they are planning to make a batch of black anodized version soon as they get more parts. It'll cost maybe $20 more.

So I've been waiting and calling every few weeks... and it just looks like they are so backed up with orders that they can't set aside parts to do the batch of black racks.

As far as the anodizing might wear off... I've thought about that. and i don't know what type of anodizing they use. Anyway, I'll call them again later this week and see what's up. I've waited 3 months for the black racks... maybe I'll give in and just get the current version.


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## TsukubaSteve (Nov 30, 2009)

What size hitch are you guys using with this rack, a 1 1/4 or a 2"? Does anyone have any comments about the adapter or whatever is required to make it fit a 2" hitch?

I need to put a hitch on my Civic and I was originally going to go with a 2" hitch to be more universal, but if this rack works better in a 1 1/4" I may consider going that route instead.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

I just ordered mine today. Now the waiting game begins. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to ship. I can't wait to stop using the trunk rack on my car. I might actually get some use out of my trunk now that I won't have to take the rack off to get into it. 

Those who have ordered from 1up, do they email you with a tracking number when it does ship, or was it just a wait and see, surprised to find it when you got home 1 day kind of thing?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

TsukubaSteve said:


> What size hitch are you guys using with this rack, a 1 1/4 or a 2"? Does anyone have any comments about the adapter or whatever is required to make it fit a 2" hitch?
> 
> I need to put a hitch on my Civic and I was originally going to go with a 2" hitch to be more universal, but if this rack works better in a 1 1/4" I may consider going that route instead.


I have a Fit and I installed a 1 1/4" hitch. I've used the rack with their supplied adapter in a 2" hitch and it works fine. There was no functional difference between the two.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I just ordered mine today. Now the waiting game begins. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to ship. I can't wait to stop using the trunk rack on my car. I might actually get some use out of my trunk now that I won't have to take the rack off to get into it.
> 
> Those who have ordered from 1up, do they email you with a tracking number when it does ship, or was it just a wait and see, surprised to find it when you got home 1 day kind of thing?


They sent me a tracking number. I forgot how long it took but it was 1) not that long and 2) longer than I wanted to wait. You'll enjoy using it.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> Unfortunately our 2000 Odyssey's tranny is crapping out so we're patiently waiting for the 2011's to come out.





hmto said:


> slightly off topic...
> ...seeing that some of the 05's and on also had the same problem I stayed away.


I have a 2005 - presumably with a somewhat fixed transmission, but not yet the Ridgeline's one (IIRC). I guess I will keep it for another 5 or so years.

New Sienna looks good. But the previous ones have had their fair share of issues.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

We test drove a new Sienna and it is sweet. It has a lot of spunk and it turns on a dime. Consumer reports says it's noisy but we didn't have that experience when we test drove it, but then again we're used to a 10 y/o odyssey that sound almost as bad as my 73 chevy van did when I was younger well, not quite. 

I realize this is hijacking the thread a bit, but how do you like the Sienna coming from an Odyssey?

If our choice were between a 2010 Odyssey and a 2011 Sienna we would take the Sienna in a heartbeat, but since the redesigned 2011 Odyssey's should be hitting the show room any time we decided to wait before we jump. Besides, I'm a little PO'ed at Honda over the transmission. They quoted $4750. to repair the tranny in a 10 y/o van that was involved in a class action lawsuit over the exact issue I am experiencing. I've also read that newer Odyssey's burn a bit of oil too, I don't expect to have to add oil to a vehicle between oil changes.

Sorry for hijacking the thread...


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Yeah...so about that 1Up USA Quik-Rack...

Anybody find a photo of 1 bike rail folded up vertical against a vehicle? I couldn't find a good view of this. I'm curious what it looks like from behind when folded up and only 1 tray on.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I'll try and get a pic today...


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Since I kind of hijacked the thread I decided to help look for some pictures... None of these are of my setup, just pictures found online...





































More pics here...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157618889046214/


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Nice that's exactly what I needed. Thanks. That is pretty low profile. I hope it doesn't take too long for me to get mine.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> I've also read that newer Odyssey's burn a bit of oil too, I don't expect to have to add oil to a vehicle between oil changes.


No oil burning on my 2005. I drove the new Sienna - and it just does not click with me - and my wife. Will wait on longer term reports if the 2007+ transmission solved the problem they had. Just in case, changing fluid on a regular basis.

It is not a thread hijack - we are discussing a vehicle that carries the rack.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


>


Drool... nice Knolly.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

Curmy said:


> No oil burning on my 2005. I drove the new Sienna - and it just does not click with me - and my wife. Will wait on longer term reports if the 2007+ transmission solved the problem they had. Just in case, changing fluid on a regular basis.
> 
> It is not a thread hijack - we are discussing a vehicle that carries the rack.


That is a must to be safe. Don't know what your mileage is but based upon history I would do it every 40-50000km or in your case 25-30000 miles


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## J (Mar 25, 2004)

I just ordered one. I called them today to ask a question, left a message.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Tuesday will be 1 week into the wait since I ordered mine. The 2 weeks waiting for it to ship is killing me. I already installed my trailer hitch, so I feel like a dork rolling around with a trunk rack and a clearly visible trailer hitch on my car. I've already been asked at my group rides several times why I have a trailer hitch but using a trunk rack. :madman: 

It needs to get here already.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

It's worth the wait. This rack rocks!!!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Need yet another rack and am looking at this one too but not sure I can get past the swaying thing....yet. Both my T2s fit really snug in the hitch receiver to begin with. Then when I tighten the bolt, the thing is rock solid with no sway at all. Has anyone figured out a way to stop this rack from swaying?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I believe the 1upusa rack will sway less than your T2. THe base that connects to the main structural member is a lot wider and stiffer than what the T2 does.

Mine does not sway. If I hit a big bump with 4 bikes on, it will do the up-down thing. But sway - no.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Flyer said:


> Need yet another rack and am looking at this one too but not sure I can get past the swaying thing....yet. Both my T2s fit really snug in the hitch receiver to begin with. Then when I tighten the bolt, the thing is rock solid with no sway at all. Has anyone figured out a way to stop this rack from swaying?


Did you not see my posts from above? There is no "real" sway at all. A friend has a T-2 and while it's a great rack, there is a bit more slop in the ratcheting mechanism in the arm which holds the front wheel. The 1up's design just doesn't have that kind of slop because it has a different mechanism. To be honest, the sway from a T-2 (as seen from the inside) is probably much worse than from the outside, just like it is on the 1up.


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## Byke Dood (Nov 22, 2008)

Good things come to those who wait  my new rack is should arrive in 2 days:thumbsup:I ordered it on the 1st day of September


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Should have arrived today, no, tomorrow. Enjoy it.


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## menusk (Jun 27, 2009)

just an observation/comment. i have a thule t2 and this isnt a thule is better comment. but more of a security issue. do any of you have pictures of your bikes secured? i never leave my bike alone on it but if i feel if i ever do someone will just come take the air out of my wheels and walk off with my bike.


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## d hawk (Sep 2, 2009)

*7th Generation Honda Accord with Quik Rack*



BaeckerX1 said:


> Yeah...so about that 1Up USA Quik-Rack...
> 
> Anybody find a photo of 1 bike rail folded up vertical against a vehicle? I couldn't find a good view of this. I'm curious what it looks like from behind when folded up and only 1 tray on.


Wish I could provide a picture of the racked folded vertical against the vehicle...except the rack cannot be folded vertical on my 7th generation Honda Accord (2003-2007). :sad:

The bottom of the bumper tucks back in about 3 inches and all the hitches I found lined up with the bumper edge.

Since the Quik Rack has only a 6 inch receiver stem, if it is entered in the hitch correctly, the rack cannot go vertical. It is fine in the other three positions. If it was only about 1.5 to 2 inches longer...(I am sure there is a joke in there somewhere).

I do not believe this will be on issue on most vehicles...just bad luck for me.

Great rack other than that small issue.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

I would appreciate some "secure" photos myself. Cable, lock, u-bolt, whatever has worked for you.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

sgtjim57 said:


> I would appreciate some "secure" photos myself. Cable, lock, u-bolt, whatever has worked for you.


I use a U lock on my Ody. It kind of looks like the picture of the Accord above. I only put it on when I'm parked and it's a bit of a PITA but I feel better when I ride away.


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## Buadyen (Apr 18, 2009)

sgtjim57 said:


> I would appreciate some "secure" photos myself. Cable, lock, u-bolt, whatever has worked for you.


I thought I had a picture of a bike locked up on my rack, but I only have one that shows the lock in it's "undeployed" state:

IMG_0519 by buadyen, on Flickr

Basically, I have a Kryptonite chain and two u-locks. One is a small Kryptonite Evolution lock (it came with the chain) that locks the chain to one of the safety chain hooks on my hitch. Then the other end of the chain wraps around the body of the rack and is locked in place with a bigger u-lock. When I want to lock a bike, I just move the u-lock up and lock it through the rear wheel and triangle and around the seat post. I thread a cable though the front wheel.

For those that wanted to see what the rack looks like folded up, I took some photos last year when I first installed the rack that shows it in the various positions:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157618889046214/with/3572159600/


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## menusk (Jun 27, 2009)

thanks buadyen, those flickr photos are a good idea.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I use a hardened chain and ABUS lock through the main triangle of my frame. I used to have a Thule rack and I fail to see how it (or any other rack) is more secure? For a 1up rack without a lock, you don't even have to remove air from the tires, just open the rack. For any rack there are security limitations. 

As others have said, just make your bike less convenient to take than someone else's. Sucky that it has to be that way but it's true.


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## J (Mar 25, 2004)

I called them up this weekend, no answer. Left a message asking for a call back. Went ahead and placed an order anyway based on this thread. 

I called today, asking when my rack would ship. Mike told me that they were quicker than they usually were, about a week or so. 

I asked him why nobody returned my call, and the answer was "I'm not sure, Cal handles all that". 

Im sure this product is going to be great, but I have a problem with companies that can't hack basic customer service. I have $300 I want to give you, but nobody can give me a call back? Maybe the guy is busy, but I'm slightly annoyed.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Then just buy another rack if that gives you more piece of mind. It's simple, they are a small company and with all the talk about that this couldn't have been a surprise. Sounds like you got your answer though. 

Sometimes in small businesses, you have to make a choice about either getting it shipped or talking about shipping it which can slow you down in the actual shipment. I'd rather they just shipped it instead of talking about it if I have to choose.

J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

JohnJ80 said:


> Then just buy another rack if that gives you more piece of mind.


Spending time on calling back is not too cheap, in all actuality. I think Bikesdirect's guy here had been quoting that implementing a on-call support - as opposed to email - would cost him arund 7% of profit. Which is not out the realm of feasible. Not that I enjoy a lack of communication, but everybody decides - customer whether they want to deal with a company - and company - whether they need to jump through all possible hoops for every possible customer. Overall - I do not believe that 1UP is bad in the customer service area.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

This statement has me wondering...

"We are so confident that our security system will prevent rack theft that if your Quik-Rack is stolen off your vehicle we will replace it for FREE!"

How exactly would you prove to them your rack was stolen if it's gone?  And they can't just take people's word for it, otherwise they'd "misplace" their rack and say there's was stolen right? I'm afraid if someone actually did manage to steal the rack itself I'd be screwed, despite their claims to the contrary.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> This statement has me wondering...
> 
> "We are so confident that our security system will prevent rack theft that if your Quik-Rack is stolen off your vehicle we will replace it for FREE!"
> 
> How exactly would you prove to them your rack was stolen if it's gone?  And they can't just take people's word for it, otherwise they'd "misplace" their rack and say there's was stolen right?


I would assume that you will file a police report for theft? Which would be a felony of some sorts, if it is false?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I would assume most calls are pre-sale. I called twice, when I was first considering racks I was also considering a bent bike for the wife and wanted to know if the rack would handle the bent. He gave me the wheel base the rack would handle and said I could have custom trays made up if I gave him details on the bike. A couple of months later I ended up going with a standard bike for the wife and purchased the 1up. The first trip with 4 bikes rattled my cage as the apparent movement in the rear view seemed extreme so I called asking about failures with 4 bike setups, he said that he's sold a bunch of 4 bike units and never had a failure but I could take a video of the movement and send it to him or return the rack if it made me feel better. I did neither and now just try very hard not to look in the rear view while I'm going down the road.

I don't see myself calling 1up again unless the rack fails or I need something else they sell.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

edthesped said:


> I would assume most calls are pre-sale. I called twice, when I was first considering racks I was also considering a bent bike for the wife and wanted to know if the rack would handle the bent. He gave me the wheel base the rack would handle and said I could have custom trays made up if I gave him details on the bike. A couple of months later I ended up going with a standard bike for the wife and purchased the 1up. The first trip with 4 bikes rattled my cage as the apparent movement in the rear view seemed extreme so I called asking about failures with 4 bike setups, he said that he's sold a bunch of 4 bike units and never had a failure but I could take a video of the movement and send it to him or return the rack if it made me feel better. I did neither and now just try very hard not to look in the rear view while I'm going down the road.
> 
> I don't see myself calling 1up again unless the rack fails or I need something else they sell.


Don't they say right on the front page that it's a 3 bike maximum?

_Because the Quik-Rack has a 1-1/4" hitch bar the bike limit is 3 bike maximum, and no more than 50 pounds per bike._

Even with the 2 inch adapter the arm is still 1-1/4".


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Don't they say right on the front page that it's a 3 bike maximum?
> 
> _Because the Quik-Rack has a 1-1/4" hitch bar the bike limit is 3 bike maximum, and no more than 50 pounds per bike._
> 
> Even with the 2 inch adapter the arm is still 1-1/4".


Not sure what and why they changed - it was previously stating there is no such limitation stated when used with 2", as it is the limitation of the hitch, not of the rack. Class I and II have 200 or 300lb tonque weight maximum.


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## CheapWhine (Dec 16, 2005)

Maybe you should call during their business hours. I have called a few times and they have answered quickly and provided detailed and helpful answers. It sounds like Mike were there when you called during business hours. Perhaps they didn't realize that you would be waiting for the weekend to call them.

I ordered on-line during the holiday weekend. I didn't expect more than the automated response that I got. When I checked on shipment date the next week, they were right on top of it. They shipped sooner than scheduled.

This met my expectations for a small company. I was not upset that I wasn't redirected to a call center in India. I guess my expectations are lower than yours, but I don't seem to get quite as wound up about either.

Just relax. Everything will work out.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

Curmy said:


> Not sure what and why they changed - it was previously stating there is no such limitation stated when used with 2", as it is the limitation of the hitch, not of the rack. Class I and II have 200 or 300lb tonque weight maximum.


They didn't change anything. If you look at the weight limit section, it says exactly that...3 bikes (150 lbs total) for 1 /14 or 4 bikes (200 lbs total) for 2".


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

GDubT said:


> They didn't change anything. If you look at the weight limit section, it says exactly that...3 bikes (150 lbs total) for 1 /14 or 4 bikes (200 lbs total) for 2".


Where do you see that? Am I missing something? I thought I remembered seeing a different weight limit somewhere for 2 inch hitches when I looked at the website months ago, but I've looked all over the website recently and this is the only weight limit information I see. Maybe they had an issue with a 4 bike setup and took it off for liability reasons? They don't mention another limit for 2" Class 3 hitches that I can see. If you click the link about receiver classes, it just tells you about receiver classes, not weight limits for the rack. I'm sure it's perfectly capable of supporting 4 bikes with a 2 inch hitch, but it doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere on the site anymore?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Plus if you go to the page below, it's even more confusing. It says at the top:
*Transport up to 4 bikes with Add-On's Price $199 each*

then right below that it says:
*You can transport 1, 2 or 3 bikes with the 1up USA Quik-Rack*

http://www.1upusa.com/1upusarackversatiletrays.htm

Seriously, which is it?

Personally, I don't care since I'm only going to ever be carrying 2 bikes max, but I just noticed this and was like hmmmmm....unless I'm totally missing something here. It's possible.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Plus if you go to the page below, it's even more confusing. It says at the top:
> *Transport up to 4 bikes with Add-On's Price $199 each*
> 
> then right below that it says:
> ...


That's alarming! Does that mean my 4 bike setup isn't road worthy? Anyone get clarification on this?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> That's alarming! Does that mean my 4 bike setup isn't road worthy? Anyone get clarification on this?


If you use it with 2" hitch and do not carry 4x 50lb DH rigs, I doubt there is any issue at all. My guess they are worried about people loading up on 1-1/4" hitches - which are not that strong.

Kuat has 2 x 40lb limit - and 4 bike extension is for 2" recievers only. I guess that extra 10lb per bike is the added weight of the rack itself. So 1Up has a higher limit actually - and they let you use with 3 bikes in 1-1/4.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

edthesped said:


> That's alarming! Does that mean my 4 bike setup isn't road worthy? Anyone get clarification on this?


I'm guessing it can probably support it and be fine on a 2 inch hitch, especially since your bikes probably aren't 50 pounds each. I just thought it was worth noting that they list it as 3 bikes, 150 pounds maximum on their site now. *There's obviously plenty of people who run them with 4 bikes. *

I just want my single tray rack to get here.  The waiting is killing me lol.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I'm guessing it can probably support it and be fine on a 2 inch hitch, especially since your bikes probably aren't 50 pounds each. I just thought it was worth noting that they list it as 3 bikes, 150 pounds maximum on their site now. *There's obviously plenty of people who run them with 4 bikes. *
> 
> I just want my single tray rack to get here.  The waiting is killing me lol.


I did a 2500 mile roundtrip this summer with 4 mountain bikes all at around 30 lbs on a 2" hitch with this rack. Worked fine.

Anyhow, I was curious so I called them up. Phone rang twice, talked to Cal, he said that the issue is the receiver not the rack. For a 1.25" receiver, it's 3 bikes and 150 lbs and for the 2" receiver it's 4 bikes or 200 lbs.

J.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> I did a 2500 mile roundtrip this summer with 4 mountain bikes all at around 30 lbs on a 2" hitch with this rack. Worked fine.
> 
> Anyhow, I was curious so I called them up. Phone rang twice, talked to Cal, he said that the issue is the receiver not the rack. For a 1.25" receiver, it's 3 bikes and 150 lbs and for the 2" receiver it's 4 bikes or 200 lbs.
> 
> J.


Good to know. It's curious why you can't find this info on the website anymore. I swear I remember seeing this same information somewhere on the site before. Guess that will put some people's minds at ease again.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Good to know. It's curious why you can't find this info on the website anymore. I swear I remember seeing this same information somewhere on the site before. Guess that will put some people's minds at ease again.


The site used to say 4 bikes on a 2" hitch but now it's gone.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

JohnJ80 said:


> Phone rang twice, talked to Cal, he said that the issue is the receiver not the rack. For a 1.25" receiver, it's 3 bikes and 150 lbs and for the 2" receiver it's 4 bikes or 200 lbs.


That's what it said before, and that does make sense. My guess is that they want to stress the point that 1-1/4" are not really suitable for a full load. Some of those hitches have some very iffy mounts.

In any case - if I buy more trays (and where the heck is the promised roof compatible ones) - I will load the lightest bike on the last one. They are all in 20 to 35lb range anyway.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

However, the new disclaimer relieves 1up of any liability if the rack fails in the 4 bike configuration and hurts someone on the road. Now you will be SOL and could possibly liable for damages and face legal action. Insurance company, "well you had 4 bikes on the rack when the manufacturer clearly states it's only good for 3, claim denied!"


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

edthesped said:


> However, the new disclaimer relieves 1up of any liability if the rack fails in the 4 bike configuration and hurts someone on the road. Now you will be SOL and could possibly liable for damages and face legal action. Insurance company, "well you had 4 bikes on the rack when the manufacturer clearly states it's only good for 3, claim denied!"


Why does their disclaimer make you SOL? If they decide not to trust a component that they have no control over (the hitch) and you decide to put 4 bikes on anyway, isn't the responsibility ultimately yours, the driver and owner? Even if you only had a single bike you'd would be responsible if it fell off and injured someone. I'm not paranoid but I am responsible so I always secure my bike to the rack with a small diameter cable on long trips. That way if the rack fails, I'll drag my bike rather than hurting someone else.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

racerwad said:


> Why does their disclaimer make you SOL? If they decide not to trust a component that they have no control over (the hitch) and you decide to put 4 bikes on anyway, isn't the responsibility ultimately yours, the driver and owner? Even if you only had a single bike you'd would be responsible if it fell off and injured someone. I'm not paranoid but I am responsible so I always secure my bike to the rack with a small diameter cable on long trips. That way if the rack fails, I'll drag my bike rather than hurting someone else.


I'm just playing devils advocate. I'm not a lawyer and I know very little about product liability, as is likely evident in my paranoid ranting.

However, when I purchased my rack for a 4 bike setup it was sold by the manufacturer, 1up, as being capable of handling 4 bikes on a 2" receiver. The manufacturer now officially changed the loading capabilities of the rack to 3 bikes, (independent of hitch class), after the sale. Technically now when I carry 4 bikes on my rack, class II hitch, I'm exceeding the manufacturers load recommendation thereby making my action negligent.

Should I only use this rack in a 3 bike configuration from now on? Do I need to purchase a different rack to carry 4 bikes on my class II hitch?

If there are any legal types out there, who would be liable if the "rack" set up in a 4 bike configuration fails and causes grievous bodily harm?

As for your statement using a cable to "drag" the bikes in the event of a failure... Do you snake the cable through every tray and secure it to the hitch or are you assuming failure will occur at a specific location? I can envision a few different failure mechanisms that would render a cable useless.

edit:

A little searching shows that they used to advertise the rack as being capable of carrying 5 bikes...

http://web.archive.org/web/20080627151827/http://www.1upusa.com/1upusarackhome.htm


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The cable goes through the main triangle and the main frame of the rack so if either tray/wheel union fails, I should be good to go. I only carry one bike because I don't have any friends  It is possible the the main receiver hitch and/or the main load bearing portion of the rack would fail. Oh well. I don't worry about _all _possibilities. Just the most probable ones.

I understand your point completely, however. If I were you, I would contact 1up and find out what they have to say. Maybe even go to www.archive.org and save a copy of a cached page that shows they claim the rack is good for 4 bikes with an 1 1/4" receiver. It does suck that they went and changed their position. If I found myself carrying 4 bikes regularly, I would upgrade to a 2" hitch and configure my rack accordingly. In my situation, I would have to have one custom made, which I would do.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

racerwad said:


> The cable goes through the main triangle and the main frame of the rack so if either tray/wheel union fails, I should be good to go. I only carry one bike because I don't have any friends  It is possible the the main receiver hitch and/or the main load bearing portion of the rack would fail. Oh well. I don't worry about _all _possibilities. Just the most probable ones.
> 
> I understand your point completely, however. If I were you, I would contact 1up and find out what they have to say. Maybe even go to www.archive.org and save a copy of a cached page that shows they claim the rack is good for 4 bikes with an 1 1/4" receiver. It does suck that they went and changed their position. If I found myself carrying 4 bikes regularly, I would upgrade to a 2" hitch and configure my rack accordingly. In my situation, I would have to have one custom made, which I would do.


I gave up my friends when I had kids which is why I need 4 trays otherwise they could find their own way to carry their bikes.

For the record, 1up always advertised 3 bikes on a 1 1/4" hitch. They used to advertise, 3 on a class I (1 1/4") and 4 on a class II or III (2") now they just went to a general 3 bikes on any hitch.

I was told that it is a "burden of proof" issue. If it can be shown that they advertised the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes at the time of purchase they are liable. Does anyone have anything showing the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes on a 2" receiver?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

edthesped said:


> I was told that it is a "burden of proof" issue. If it can be shown that they advertised the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes at the time of purchase they are liable. Does anyone have anything showing the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes on a 2" receiver?


That's what I was afraid of. =/


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> I was told that it is a "burden of proof" issue. If it can be shown that they advertised the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes at the time of purchase they are liable. Does anyone have anything showing the rack as being capable of carrying 4 bikes on a 2" receiver?


I do not think they ever advertized 4 bikes for 1-1/4" hitch. No manufacturer - including Thule and Kuat, who actually have lower weight limits - do that. It is mostly a problem with a hitch.

My guess is that the rack is compatible with 1-1/4" they state a limit for 1-1/4". Otherwise somebody who bought it for 2" will later put it into 1-1/4" and damage the hitch or the vehicle.

Just like Honda insists on adding transmission cooling when installing a hitch, even if you do not plan to tow anything. Had to bolt one on myself - dealer refused, unless I buy $600 in extra parts.

I certainly would have no reservations running 4, as was in the accompanying documentation, in a 2" hitch - with all my bike much lower then 50lb limit. I do not think that changing a disclaimer a posteriori relieves anybody from any responsibility.



racerwad said:


> A little searching shows that they used to advertise the rack as being capable of carrying 5 bikes...
> 
> http://web.archive.org/web/20080627151827/http://www.1upusa.com/1upusarackhome.htm


That is a very different design there.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Curmy said:


> That is a very different design there.


I don't know why you're quoting me here but I never said anything like this.

Edit: It appears that edthesped posted this in post #222


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

racerwad said:


> I don't know why you're quoting me here but I never said anything like this.
> 
> Edit: It appears that edthesped posted this in post #222


Yeah.

In any case - it is apparent that 1Up's web presentation and editing skills are not their strong suit.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Curmy said:


> Yeah.
> 
> In any case - it is apparent that 1Up's web presentation and editing skills are not their strong suit.


As long as the rack is good I'm willing to overlook the crappy website.  Just called them today and mine will be shipping out tomorrow or Monday. I should have it by end of next week hopefully.


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

I just got my 1up usa rack and this thing is business. It took 2 weeks from date of order to delivery. I've been using a yakima holdup for a few weeks and it will be going back to REI. The 1up is lighter, much easier to install and feels more secure since it holds both wheels. The rack is definietly well thought out and well engineered, much more so than any of the big brands. The rack also has ZERO wobble, my holdup wobbles all over the place, even with anti rattle pin. I think some of the other brand racks my look "cooler" (KUAT). The 1up definitely has a parts bin look to it, but it's definitely a quality piece. I'm a little suspect of there being no hitch pin, but it makes installation easier and if it works, than im cool with that.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Curmy said:


> Yeah.
> 
> In any case - it is apparent that 1Up's web presentation and editing skills are not their strong suit.


They don't appear to be yours, either 

Anyhow, @blantonator-the lack of a hitch pin shouldn't concern you too much. I have put thousands of miles on my rack/bike combo (albeit in a single bike form so not too much weight) and I haven't had any issues. Their securing mechanism never has loosened nor has it corroded or seized up (that was a concern of mine up in WA). I do agree with what you're saying about the looks. I don't know about "parts bin" since each component (apart from the fasteners, which are a little hokey) is individually machined. I think that it does look better in real life but that's just my opinion.

The one thing that I've found that makes it the "most" secure is to make sure that the angle the arm makes with the horizontal is equal between each side. All things being equal, the closer to vertical the arm is, the more securely it tends to hold the wheel. I've found that when one arm is at a dramatically different angle from the other, that respective wheel has less tension holding it in. I geeked out and used a dial-style angle finder to get the right angles. I also noted on the linkage where the "magic" angle was on one arm and then your bike will make the other arm line up. This method changes for different wheelbases and wheel sizes, duh.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Curmy said:


> I do not think they ever advertized 4 bikes for 1-1/4" hitch. No manufacturer - including Thule and Kuat, who actually have lower weight limits - do that. It is mostly a problem with a hitch.
> 
> My guess is that the rack is compatible with 1-1/4" they state a limit for 1-1/4". Otherwise somebody who bought it for 2" will later put it into 1-1/4" and damage the hitch or the vehicle.
> 
> ...


That was me that posted the link, sorry for the confusion. Changing the specs does not relieve them of responsibility, if it can be shown that the sold it as 4 bike compatible. I'm pretty sure that all is OK but it is a little discomforting that the capacity was reduced. All I really want now is some sort of documentation showing that the rack was rated 4 bikes on a 2" hitch when I purchased it.

In my case I have a van with a 2" class II receiver so I couldn't attach it to a 1 1/4" receiver if I had to.


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

i should add that my only complaint is that with the tensioner ball inserted 2", the maximum I can insert before hitting my bumper, I can't fold the rack in the upright position. I can however put it at 45*, which is fairly flush to the bumper. This is combination of the hitch being recessed behind my bumper a few inches and the male end of the rack being kind of short. In any case it's a sweet rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It's pretty simple. Their website editing is confusing - nothing more. The rack is spec'ed for 3 bikes on 1-1/4" and 4 bikes on 2". The issue is the capacity (tongue weight) rating of the respective hitches. Nothing more. Not worth over thinking it.

J.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

blantonator said:


> i should add that my only complaint is that with the tensioner ball inserted 2", the maximum I can insert before hitting my bumper, I can't fold the rack in the upright position. I can however put it at 45*, which is fairly flush to the bumper. This is combination of the hitch being recessed behind my bumper a few inches and the male end of the rack being kind of short. In any case it's a sweet rack.


Bla, what kind of car do you have? How far is it from the edge of your bumper to the end of your hitch? Can you post a pic? I was just looking at my Charger yesterday and I'm afraid I could end up in the same boat. I don't think the hitch comes completely out to the edge of the bumper. I suppose it's no big deal if it's the case though since it goes on and off so easily. I'm assuming you don't have any issues with pedals contacting your car? Thanks.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> In my case I have a van with a 2" class II receiver so I couldn't attach it to a 1 1/4" receiver if I had to.


True - all I was saying is that it could be the exact same lane of reasoning that Honda gives when insisting on installing a transmission and steering cooler when installing a hitch at a dealer. They say that even if you do not use hitch for towing 3000lb boats, somebody who buys your car from you may - and they will damage transmission and make Honda liable. 1Up is 1-1/4 compatible - understandable for them to have some CYA language in case you decide to sell your rack.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

racerwad said:


> They don't appear to be yours, either


I would bet that you are worse expressing yourself in my native language.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Looks like the design has changed since then. No more 2" receiver to mount the next rack to.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Curmy said:


> I would bet that you are worse expressing yourself in my native language.


Meh, you are right. But we aren't communicating in yours so...

Back to the racks.

And much respect to non-native English speakers. Both of my parents learned later on in life.


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Bla, what kind of car do you have? How far is it from the edge of your bumper to the end of your hitch? Can you post a pic? I was just looking at my Charger yesterday and I'm afraid I could end up in the same boat. I don't think the hitch comes completely out to the edge of the bumper. I suppose it's no big deal if it's the case though since it goes on and off so easily. I'm assuming you don't have any issues with pedals contacting your car? Thanks.


I have a 2004 330i with ZHP package (has different bumpers). Here are some pics. As you can see the ball is inserted around 2", which should be fine. I put a lock on there when i leave it on for a while, though I probably don't need it.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Curmy said:


> ..... 1Up is 1-1/4 compatible - understandable for them to have some CYA language in case you decide to sell your rack.


Another place those of us who purchased a 4 bike setup are screwed....

I have a 4 bike setup now should I decide to sell my rack to someone with a class II or III receiver and they look at 1up's website they will think I'm BS'ing them when I say they can use it in a 4 bike setup as 1up's site now says 3 bikes regardless of receiver.


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## J (Mar 25, 2004)

CheapWhine said:


> Maybe you should call during their business hours. I have called a few times and they have answered quickly and provided detailed and helpful answers. It sounds like Mike were there when you called during business hours. Perhaps they didn't realize that you would be waiting for the weekend to call them.
> 
> I ordered on-line during the holiday weekend. I didn't expect more than the automated response that I got. When I checked on shipment date the next week, they were right on top of it. They shipped sooner than scheduled.
> 
> ...


For the record, I'm not wound up about the fact that they didnt call back - I just wanted to illustrate my experience to the thread, which is why I used the phrase 'slightly annoyed'. I'm more sensitive to this type of thing since I run a customer support group. I certainly don't expect super fast turnaround times from this sort of operation, and I am not really in a rush to get the rack.

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to sell my old rack on craigslist.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

My 4 bike setup...

But first, does anyone know what a "New Age Beverage" is?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> Another place those of us who purchased a 4 bike setup are screwed....
> 
> I have a 4 bike setup now should I decide to sell my rack to someone with a class II or III receiver and they look at 1up's website they will think I'm BS'ing them when I say they can use it in a 4 bike setup as 1up's site now says 3 bikes regardless of receiver.


I guess somebody should write to them and bug them to clear up the language. Some of the web site edits they make look quite ad-hoc.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Curmy said:


> I guess somebody should write to them and bug them to clear up the language. Some of the web site edits they make look quite ad-hoc.


That's what I'm thinking. BTW, I have a class III not II. A class II hitch is a 1 1/4" receiver. Class III's have a 2" receiver. In any event the difference in rack flex between 3 and 4 bikes is substantial when compared to any setup between 1 and 3. I still sweat the 4 bike setup but I hit some massive road dips and potholes at speed and the rack was rocking and rolling but nothing gave out.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

edthesped said:


> That's what I'm thinking. BTW, I have a class III not II. A class II hitch is a 1 1/4" receiver. Class III's have a 2" receiver. In any event the difference in rack flex between 3 and 4 bikes is substantial when compared to any setup between 1 and 3. I still sweat the 4 bike setup but I hit some massive road dips and potholes at speed and the rack was rocking and rolling but nothing gave out.


And it would not - judging by my (semi-professional) examination of the construction. The thing that will likely give is the hitch attachement. On our Odysseys it is plenty bloody strong - some of the U-haul jobs on smaller sedans are often iffy. You are right about class III.

That said - I still inspect the rack for cracks every time I take it off. But then I do that to all the things I own.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I agree with Curmy's assessment. With 4 bikes that's a fair bit of leverage, but construction-wise they are certainly a step above most other's steel stampings. The pic with all 4 trays folded up is hilarious. It almost looks like some sort of DOT road work truck.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The thing is the add on trays come off so quickly that it's almost as easy to just take them apart.

J.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Mine just shipped today, 1 day before the 2 weeks quoted. Hopefully it will be here this week and I can ditch the trunk rack. 

Thanks for the photos Blantonator. From looking at your pics, I might be in the same boat you are, but it actually doesn't look bad in the 45 degree position on your ride. It's still pretty low profile and hugs the bumper nicely. I might get lucky since I think my bumper is a little more vertical than yours and doesn't come out as much from the vehicle. It looks like I'm about the same distance though between hitch and bumper. We will see soon. If anything since it's so easy to remove and store, it won't be an issue. I'll just throw it in the trunk.

What kind of lock is that? Looks beefy. Think it will stand up to bolt cutters any better than a normal cable lock?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

All locks do is to give a thief an obstacle. If you are using two locking methods, that means two sets of tools. This does that - the locking provisions inherent in the rack and the cable.

J.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> All locks do is to give a thief an obstacle. If you are using two locking methods, that means two sets of tools. This does that - the locking provisions inherent in the rack and the cable.
> 
> J.


I realize this. I know all bike locks are merely a deterrent. Still, I am looking for something I can use to lock my bike to my hitch and rack while I am having a few post ride beers without having a panic attack and checking on my bike every 5 minutes. I just want something that will take a thief a good amount of time to defeat. I realize I'd obviously need something longer.

I'm not really super concerned about locking the rack to the car as I will just take it off most of the time when not in use, but his lock looks super clean attached to the rack cause it's short and minimalistic. If I was going to lock it to the hitch I'd use something similar. I'm still wondering what kind of lock that is.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Somebody here in one of the 1UpUSA threads figured out how to lock it to the car with a U lock. I suppose you could then use that to lock the bikes to it with something else. I'd look at some permutation of the Sheldon Brown method:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Maybe using a chain to replace the post in the link above.

J.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I realize this. I know all bike locks are merely a deterrent. Still, I am looking for something I can use to lock my bike to my hitch and rack while I am having a few post ride beers without having a panic attack and checking on my bike every 5 minutes. I just want something that will take a thief a good amount of time to defeat. I realize I'd obviously need something longer.
> 
> I'm not really super concerned about locking the rack to the car as I will just take it off most of the time when not in use, but his lock looks super clean attached to the rack cause it's short and minimalistic. If I was going to lock it to the hitch I'd use something similar. I'm still wondering what kind of lock that is.


I use two thick cables - one through the hitch, with two loops - then thread another one through those loops, around the rack and bikes. Good enough to deter a casual thief.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Has anyone heard any official information from 1UP regarding the 4 bike setup? I have emails into them, I want something in writing, and have yet to hear anything.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Yes. I called them and asked.

3 bikes for 1.25" hitch, 4 bikes for 2" hitch. It's not the rack, it's the tongue weight spec on the hitch. 1.25" hitches are speced with less weight allowed than 2".

J.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yes. I called them and asked.
> 
> 3 bikes for 1.25" hitch, 4 bikes for 2" hitch. It's not the rack, it's the tongue weight spec on the hitch. 1.25" hitches are speced with less weight allowed than 2".
> 
> J.


You're missing the point. I think he just wants it in writing for a CYA kind of thing since they removed it from the website. "That one guy at 1up told me I could" wouldn't really hold up if there actually was a failure. He's not talking about the tongue weight of the hitch. I'm sure he realizes that. He's talking about the capacity of the rack, which is a completely different thing. I could stick a few sticks in my hitch and mount stuff on it. The hitch's max tongue weight wouldn't be a factor here.

I don't think anyone is overreacting here. If it supports it, he should have no problem getting it in writing. It's odd that they won't put it in writing but will tell you it's fine over the phone, don't you think? Why would they have it on the website at one point and then remove it later? It used to specifically say what they told you on the phone on the website, now it does not. That's all we're saying. You _*probably*_ could get away with running a 4 bike setup on a 1 1/4 class 2 if it was one that securely bolted to the car frame and not have a failure if you really wanted to, but it would be outside of manufacturer spec. It would probably bob like crazy though.  Nobody is actually questioning the strength of the rack itself.

Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup. 
That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare. 230 / 4 = 57.5
*If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.*

You're exceeding the maximum weight you can exert on the rack's 1 1/4 arm inserted into the hitch. The force is greatest there. By using the 2 inch adapter you're increasing the rack arm's load bearing weight at the hitch. *So it is indeed a rack limitation and not a hitch limitation.*

Anyway, I can't wait to get my 1 bike setup. It's arriving today.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

I know that when I ordered mine it clearly said it was capable of holding 4 bikes using a 2" hitch (with adapter) with various individual bike weight limits. If I ever run into a problem with that, then I don't see how I could possibly be liable. 

The front page of the website says you can hold 4 bikes (someone should print that for evidence, cause I think they forgot to change it). Also why does it say "NEW" Quik-rack? They must have changed something, design, materials? The "new" weight limits must be a result of the "new" bike rack...glad I have and "old" rack with "old" weight limits.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
> 22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup.
> That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare.  230 / 4 = 57.5
> *If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.*


You are computing a static load. Unlike tongue weight of a towed trailer, with its weight mostly on the wheels, I would imagine there would be a much larger variation with a free hanging rack bouncing up and down and twisting out, so if the static load rating includes some margin for trailer - it probably needs to be larger for a bicycle rack. Instanteneous load would be well over the actual weight of the rack with bikes. (assuming 50lb walmart specials - there is just 30lb in your calculation left as a margin. Not nearly comfortable.)
I do not know how the strength margin for hitch is actually computed - but I would be surprised that it is done with a long free hanging rack in mind.



BaeckerX1 said:


> So it is indeed a rack limitation and not a hitch limitation.


Kuat and other manufacturers have even stricter load limits for 4-bike racks, and they quote the hitch limitation. So I think you are wrong in your assertion. Kuat only lets you run 2-bike, 40lb per bike, in 1-1/4" as far as I remember.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

You're probably right about the free hanging unsupported weight being less than rated tongue weight, but still. How many people have 50 pound bikes anyway?



Curmy said:


> Kuat and other manufacturers have even stricter load limits for 4-bike racks, and they quote the hitch limitation. So I think you are wrong in your assertion. Kuat only lets you run 2-bike, 40lb per bike, in 1-1/4" as far as I remember.


Yeah, but *are they referring to a receiver size limitation (and thus the rack arm size limitation) or the hitch load carrying capacity?* I think it's a bit of a misnomer. Looking at my 1.25 hitch which is stout and bolted securely into my frame with 6 pre-drilled holes...I think the arm of any hitch would fail long before the hitch itself would fail. Kuat's racks are also a lot heavier.

I think the issue is that having a 2 inch arm inserted into a 2 inch hitch, the rack arm that is supporting all the weight would be stouter and less easily bent or broken. With a 1.25 inch rack arm inserted into the 1.25 hitch, the thinner rack arm cannot support the same force applied to it at the hitch.

Even though they quote hitch limitation, I think it's still a rack limitation essentially _*(rack arm size limitation because of receiver size)*_. The narrower arm is not as strong as the larger arm. All the weight of the rack and driving forces like bumps and turns are supported by the rack arm where it meets the hitch. I believe in almost all scenarios your rack will fail long before the hitch fails, unless it is poorly mounted to the vehicle. I don't think [the rack limitation] is truly a hitch limitation because I don't think the primary worry is that your hitch will fall off your car or that your hitch will snap. I think the higher concern is that your rack will fail in some way.

If you stuck a long steel pipe into your trailer hitch and jump up and down on it, which would happen first? Would the hitch break or would the pipe fail in some way first (either by bending or breaking)? I think the latter. Which would be stronger, the 1.25" pipe or the 2" pipe? So *essentially the limit is not in the load carrying capacity of the hitch itself, but the limitation on the size of the lever arm imposed by the size of the hitch.* So it's not technically a trailer hitch weight bearing limitation, which is why I think all rack companies have different weight restrictions for different racks. I could be completely wrong here. I'm just brainstorming.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> You're probably right about the free hanging unsupported weight being less than rated tongue weight, but still. How many people have 50 pound bikes anyway?


Those people who shop for cheap bikes. Some of them are stupendously heavy.



BaeckerX1 said:


> I believe in almost all scenarios your rack will fail long before the hitch fails, unless it is poorly mounted to the vehicle. I don't think [the rack limitation] is truly a hitch limitation because I don't think the primary worry is that your hitch will fall off your car or that your hitch will snap. I think the higher concern is that your rack will fail in some way. I could be completely wrong here. I'm just brainstorming.


Failure point on 1up rack would be either an inch+ thick aluminum bar, or bolts going through half inch thick aluminum plates on the main tray. Failure points on a U-haul special 1-1/4" on a sedan would be some < M12 bolts attached to sheet metal and leveraged up the wazoo. I would bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first.

P.S. Anybody wants to try?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Curmy said:


> Those people who shop for cheap bikes. Some of them are stupendeously heavy.
> 
> Failure point on 1up rack would be either an inch+ thick aluminum bar, or bolts going through half inch thick aluminum plates on the main tray. Failure points on a U-haul special 1-1/4" on a sedan would be some < M12 bolts attached to sheet metal and leveraged up the wazoo. I would bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first.
> 
> P.S. Anybody wants to try?


My thoughts exactly regarding the 1up rack. I hope you could see why I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation (at least as far as load bearing capacity is concerned). *It probably would be a hitch limitation on something like a small civic with a sketchy mounted hitch.*

For what it's worth on my car it can support class 3 and class 2 hitches and uses the same interface with pre-drilled holes into the actual frame and the same size bolts. I ultimately decided on a class 2 cause I didn't need a class 3 and I thought it would be a little less obvious with nothing on it (but it's not really). Ground clearance I thought might be slightly better since my car sits pretty low and I've hit my front and rear bumpers on the ground on several occasions. Plus it's a little less weight for the car to carry around. If I ever needed a 2 inch the option is always there for me down the road. The 1.25 I have is pretty damn beefy so I think the rack would fail first in my case. I won't ever carry more than 2 bikes anyway. The Charger isn't your typical sedan though.

I know this isn't the case on most small cars and people actually have to drill holes or actually mount hitches to the bumper. I'm not really referring to those cases which are pretty weak attachments.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> My thoughts exactly regarding the 1up rack. I hope you could see why I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation (at least as far as load bearing capacity is concerned). *It probably would be a hitch limitation on something like a small civic with a sketchy mounted hitch.*
> 
> For what it's worth on my car it can support class 3 and class 2 hitches and uses the same interface with pre-drilled holes into the actual frame and the same size bolts. I ultimately decided on a class 2 cause I didn't need a class 3 and I thought it would be a little less obvious with nothing on it (but it's not really). Ground clearance I thought might be slightly better since my car sits pretty low and I've hit my front and rear bumpers on the ground on several occasions. Plus it's a little less weight for the car to carry around. If I ever needed a 2 inch the option is always there for me down the road. The 1.25 I have is pretty damn beefy so I think the rack would fail first in my case. I won't ever carry more than 2 bikes anyway. The Charger isn't your typical sedan though.
> 
> I know this isn't the case on most small cars and people actually have to drill holes or actually mount hitches to the bumper. I'm not really referring to those cases which are pretty weak attachments.


I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.

I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

I just got mine today. This is one well built piece of kit. It's pretty sweet. I'm really glad I waited. I do think I'll have to get used to the way the bike is secured. It looks perfectly secure but I'm paranoid that there's nothing else holding it in the rack. =/

Only issue is I ran into the same thing as Blantonator. I can only put it up in the 45 degree position because my bumper sticks out too far. Even so it will be perfect for me. I'll try and get pics when there's daylight tomorrow afternoon and post them up.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

racerwad said:


> I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.
> 
> I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.


The cynic in me wonders what _really_ prompted the change on the website. I'm sure the folks at 1UP didn't just wake up one morning and say "hey, let's change the load capacity of the rack!" My guess is there was some sort of a failure, hopefully it was an overloaded hitch, and 1UP jumped straight into CYA mode. On the unfortunate side this leaves people like me who already squirm when they look at 4 loaded bikes through the rear view feeling very uncertain about their fairly new $900 rack. On my setup the difference in flex between 3 and 4 bikes appears to be substantial, I'm quite comfortable looking in the rear view with 3 bikes as visible flex is minimal but adding the 4th bike puts butterflies in my stomach.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

racerwad said:


> I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.
> 
> I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.


I think you need to read his post again.  In any case, I'm not worried about "my" hitch or "my" rack.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> I think you need to read his post again.  In any case, I'm not worried about "my" hitch or "my" rack.


I did before I posted. He clearly said that he would "...bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first."

You said:



BaeckerX1 said:


> I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation


Anyhoo, I just feel bad when people are worried about this or what when _I_ feel like there is little evidence for concern.

Enjoy your rack. It's one of the few things I own which always does exactly what it should, without me worrying or "compensating" for it.


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## Dogbrain (Mar 4, 2008)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
> 22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup.
> That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare. 230 / 4 = 57.5
> *If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.*


It's more complicated than that. When hauling a regular trailer, the force experienced by the hitch acts straight down towards the ground because the bulk load is supported by the trailer. There is almost no torque on the actual hitch. When you mount a bike rack on, the hitch not only experiences the weight of the bike, but also the torque of that load on the end of the rack which acts basically as a lever. Each bike will contribute a greater torque than the previous as they get farther from the hitch.

If you want to experience this for yourself, get two heavy things and a pole or something to attach them to. First attach both heavy things in the center of the pole, rest one end on a table or something and pick up the other end. Now remove one of the heavy things and try to use your wrist to lift the pole out level with the ground. You should be supporting the same amount of weight, but you find it takes substantially more strength in your wrist to do it.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

racerwad said:


> I did before I posted. He clearly said that he would "...bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first."


Indeed, I have said that.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

See, we do speak the same language! :thumbsup:


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## skoor (Jun 9, 2009)

Because the Quik-Rack has a 1-1/4" hitch bar the bike limit is 3 bike maximum, and no more than 50 pounds per bike." 

I bought the 1UPUSA rack with one extra bike option. I am very pleased, but I never did feel comfortable with the claim for 4 bikes and fully bought it never really planning to have more than just 2 bikes max. I would buy again and highly recommend it. But also told my friends I would never go to 4 bikes. It now seem official- 3 max.

But looking at the website, it is pretty clear they have backed off at least in written words from the 4 bikes option and now limit it to 3 max for all receiver mounts. They say it is the rack's1-1/4" hitch bar as the limitations now. And they recently beefed up the back connection plate too. I suspect 4 bikes just always pushing it and must have had some failures or wanting to reduce their liabilities somehow. And as you know, it only fits a 2 inch received because of the receiver adaptor. 

Since I did not buy expecting t to every have use 4 bikes, I am ok. Not sure how I would feel it I had planned to go to 4 in the future, much less already had 4. 

150 lb of bikes + rack weight is still a lot for all the varying roads conditions, hitch quality and mounting, and even careless drivers hitting bumps hard or doing fast corners for a small piece of rack's1-1/4"AL high leverage off a mount point. 

Before I bought the 1UPUSA I looked at the Thule Helium,, it claimed AL, but the mount bar was steel. Suspect their liability lawyers had some input to engineering.  "


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

skoor said:


> ................... And they recently beefed up the back connection plate too. I suspect 4 bikes just always pushing it and must have had some failures or wanting to reduce their liabilities somehow. And as you know, it only fits a 2 inch received because of the receiver adaptor.
> ..............


I heard nothing of a "beefed up" back connection plate. Please enlighten me as to how and when this was done, also clarify what you mean by the back plate.

Thanks


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## J (Mar 25, 2004)

I got mine on Friday. Rock solid, very happy with it. Only drawback is that it blocks the license plate when folded up. 

However, that feature came very much in handy today in the crowded bike parking lot. It folds up very close to the bumper, and I was able to squeeze into a tight spot. 

This thing is rad. I should have done this sooner.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Well since I only ever plan on using my rack for 2 bikes I'm not concerned. But they did remove the 4 bike language from the website, which says something. And other people tend to agree with me so I'm not the only one who thinks it's strange. All I was doing was bringing it to the attention of the people who hadn't realized that the language changed. They can do with that information what they like.

In any case, I really need to buy a second tray. Having to put the trunk rack back on when my dad was in town sucked.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I feel that those of us who bought a 4 bike setup have an obligation to be concerned. I know I don't want my rack to fail as it has the potential to be very bad in many different ways. However, from the best I can tell 1UP would be required by law to recall the rack if a design deficiency was found that would prevent it from safely carrying 4 bikes. I just wish that 1UP was a little more straight forward as to what precipitated this change in capacity. 

BaeckerX1 I am grateful for the original post as it needs to be addressed.

edit: Also, the rack is a truly innovative design and feels rock solid with up to 3 bikes loaded. But putting a 4th bike on the racks really amplifies the appearance of vertical movement through the rear view mirror.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Since we've beaten that other issue to death now...

My dad was actually laughing at me for spending $300 on a single tray bike rack....until he saw it when he came out to visit. He wasn't laughing anymore. He said he could see why it was so expensive. It really is just quality kit, and I love being able to only run 1 tray.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

well worth the wait
i was disappointed because of the wait time for orders, but im glad i got this rack
quality is top notch, nothing comes close
I just got mine in today


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

edthesped said:


> I feel that those of us who bought a 4 bike setup have an obligation to be concerned. I know I don't want my rack to fail as it has the potential to be very bad in many different ways. However, from the best I can tell 1UP would be required by law to recall the rack if a design deficiency was found that would prevent it from safely carrying 4 bikes. I just wish that 1UP was a little more straight forward as to what precipitated this change in capacity.
> 
> BaeckerX1 I am grateful for the original post as it needs to be addressed.
> 
> edit: Also, the rack is a truly innovative design and feels rock solid with up to 3 bikes loaded. But putting a 4th bike on the racks really amplifies the appearance of vertical movement through the rear view mirror.


I called and talked to Cal on this issue about a month ago. The limitation is the rating on the 1-1/4" hitch rating, not the rack. You an use 4 bikes on a 2" hitch and 3 bikes on a 1.25" hitch. I believe with most of the other brands you are limited to two bikes on a 1.25" hitch.

The liability for 1UpUSA is recommending that you overload the spec on 1.25" hitches with 4 bikes. They can only go and recommend to the industry standard regardless of how strong their rack is.

J.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> I called and talked to Cal on this issue about a month ago. The limitation is the rating on the 1-1/4" hitch rating, not the rack. You an use 4 bikes on a 2" hitch and 3 bikes on a 1.25" hitch. I believe with most of the other brands you are limited to two bikes on a 1.25" hitch.
> 
> The liability for 1UpUSA is recommending that you overload the spec on 1.25" hitches with 4 bikes. They can only go and recommend to the industry standard regardless of how strong their rack is.
> 
> J.


Thanks John,

I too called a while ago and got the same answer and feel more comfortable about the 4 bike setup. I figured I should let sleeping dogs lie. The rack is going to get a real workout next summer. We already have 3 trips planned that involve bringing bikes along. Each trip is 400 mi or better, I figure I'll forget all about the hitch questions and my concerns after the first trip.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I don't think you need to worry about it at all. In order for the rack to catastrophically fail, you'd have to have the main member bend big, break or tear through a lot of thick aluminum plate. Neither one is very likely or probable. 

The only thing I do is take a toe clip strap and put it around the rims of the outermost bike and the tray. If you ever hit a monumental bump and your tires were low, there could be compression enough for the bike to loosen but not come out. It's not necessary but if your paranoid, that's a good solution. Frankly, I'd do that on any rack that depends on tire pressure as part of the holding mechanism. Thule and Yak racks that do this are probably even more likely to experience this as a problem - and all three of them are very, very remote possibilities.

Don't worry - I hit a major bump in a construction zone at about 80mph on the outskirts of Denver this summer with 4 bikes on the rack. We all got knocked around big in the car (was dangerous for sure) and the bikes were fine. My fault, didn't slow down fast enough and the bump was right there across the entire road. Had I lost a bike, it would have been my fault for sure. That was on a 2500 mile round trip and we had no problems.

J.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

used my rack for the first time today
love it
here are some pics
i added reflective tape to mine


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## 5.0Trunk (May 12, 2009)

I placed a order on Friday for the rack and 1 add-on, I received confirmation that it shipped on Monday, and it will be here on Thursday. Can't wait to get it.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

5.0Trunk said:


> I placed a order on Friday for the rack and 1 add-on, I received confirmation that it shipped on Monday, and it will be here on Thursday. Can't wait to get it.


You won't regret purchasing it...


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## 5.0Trunk (May 12, 2009)

I received the rack today, great craftsmanship.


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## d_wrek (Apr 16, 2009)

Ordered rack + add-on Wednesday night, shipped Thursday morning, received today. Took about 30 seconds to put on the car.

Awesome.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

It looks like they're currently not quoting the 2 week lead time on the website. It says they're in stock and shipping same day or next day. Just ordered my second bike add-on. Hopefully no long wait this time. I've been really happy with the rack so far.

Mine has recently developed quite the squeal when I open the arms though. I need to oil the hinge methinks.

My only concern with the rack at all is it seems those little springs that hold the lever for the arms closed could fail after a period of time? They seem sturdy enough, but not overly so. I haven't had any issue with it all season, just wondering about the future. Am I just being too paranoid? I'm sure I am, but I can't help it. The rack has been more than secure so far, yet I still look for potential failure points, and probably would with any rack. I guess that's what happens when you have that much money hanging off the back of your car. =/


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## Consuela (Jun 13, 2008)

Hi Baecker,

You are correct about the springs on the arms, at least the older version. 1Up is good about honoring their Lifetime Warrenty though.

Our springs failed after 1 year, but even then I wasn't worried about the bike falling off the rack. The result of the failed spring was that it was more difficult to open the arms to remove the bike.

I emailed 1UpUSA about it, thinking they would send me some new springs and I would fix it myself. Instead, they emailed me a prepaid shipping label to print out and rebuilt the whole rack and put stronger arms on, too. It was a bummer to be without the rack for 2 weeks, but it does work perfectly again and seems even stronger than before.

Regarding locks, we have a two cable system, because we like to go for lunch after riding and don't want to worry. We run a looped cable through a loop on the hitch like a noose and up through the wheels on the bike, so the other loop end is up around the center of the frames. Then we take a .75" cable lock from a motorcycle store through the frames, rack, and the loop of the first cable. It is easier to put on and off than it sounds. Yes, someone could get through it if they really wanted. I wouldn't leave it outside overnight. But, it does give peace of mind while eating lunch.









https://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1000&scid=1001&pid=1182










Have fun!
Consuela


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

Looks like the black racks are available now. I like the silver one on my grey car, but for those of you who can't live without black.... they are $50 more:

http://1upusa.com/1upusarackblack.htm


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## flafonta (Feb 6, 2008)

Just a note to state that for those on the fence, this company is top notch to work with and they stand behind their products (both racks and trainers).


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I'm considering this rack for my truck that has a camper shell on it. I have a Yakima holdup currently, which, unless I put a hitch extension on it, interferes with the tailgate when dropped. I would be very happy if I could lower my tailgate without interference, and ecstatic If it didn't poke out past the tailgate when the gate is down. 

Would a 1up owner be kind enough to measure from the top of the hitch to the highest point on the inside tray when the tray is folded up and the rack is horizontal/down? Another useful measurement would be from the hitch pin to the terminal portion of the rack when horizontal/down.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

...terminal portion of a two tray system.


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## dberndt (Apr 17, 2010)

Can anyone comment on how the arms stay in place? This is what makes this design different from just about everything out there on the market, but I don't see any springs etc? Is there some sort of a ratcheting mechanism? It seems to me there would be nothing but the tire's snug fit from preventing the arms from falling open?


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

They lock in place when the arms are pushed up against the tire. They can only be released when you pull up on the red levers. There is a locking spring mechanism within the lever.
At least that's what I see in mine.
If you're worried about it releasing, DON'T. Mine has never come loose, and that's after a year of good abuse.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I'm considering this rack for my truck that has a camper shell on it. I have a Yakima holdup currently, which, unless I put a hitch extension on it, interferes with the tailgate when dropped. I would be very happy if I could lower my tailgate without interference, and ecstatic If it didn't poke out past the tailgate when the gate is down.
> 
> Would a 1up owner be kind enough to measure from the top of the hitch to the highest point on the inside tray when the tray is folded up and the rack is horizontal/down? Another useful measurement would be from the hitch pin to the terminal portion of the rack when horizontal/down.


Heh, I just posted this thread, but curiously started reading about this rack and am considering it, even if it is a little more expensive than the T2. And I was planning to post the same question once I was finished reading the thread, so had to laugh when I saw yours on the last page.

So yeah, truck with a camper shell, just want to make sure that I can drop the tailgate when there are no bikes on the rack.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

and one additional question: how will the rack secure a bicycle that has a flat tire?


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## nutman (Mar 14, 2011)

Regarding the 4 bike set-up. It is my understanding that anything built on a 1 1/4" receiver should be limited to 3 bikes and about 150 pounds, whether you adapt up to 2" or not. I emailed 1up about availability of a Quik-rack built on a 2" receiver and suitable for 4 bikes. Within an hour I received a reply stating that design is in the works, and they hope to have them available around the end of April.


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## @dam (Jan 28, 2004)

I'm thinking of getting a RAV4 for my next car. Will this rack work on it? The RAV4 has a large, swinging rear door, so I don't think this rack would allow it to open.


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## hardboiled (Jun 10, 2006)

@dam said:


> I'm thinking of getting a RAV4 for my next car. Will this rack work on it? The RAV4 has a large, swinging rear door, so I don't think this rack would allow it to open.


it works fine on my 2010 rav4. it will only go up to the 3/4 position (not full vertical) when stowed because of the spare tire, which I thought might annoy me before I got it. in fact the rack in that position is still very low profile and tucked in and it's a total non-issue. if you put the rack into the horizontal position (with no bike loaded) you can open the rear door all the way. you ought to be able to open the rear door a little bit with a bike loaded and the rack in the downwards position, but I doubt you'd be able to open the door all the way. I'm totally happy with it (and a huge fan of the rav4 as well).


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## BigTex91 (Oct 28, 2010)

Bagwhan said:


> and one additional question: how will the rack secure a bicycle that has a flat tire?


Fortunately I haven't had to try it, but I think it would work just fine - I see no reason why it wouldn't. In addition to the arms, it comes with a velcro strap that you can use to secure one of the wheels. But the only reason I see why the arm wouldn't secure a flat is if there was no tire on the rim at all.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

*Velcro Strap?*



BigTex91 said:


> Fortunately I haven't had to try it, but I think it would work just fine - I see no reason why it wouldn't. In addition to the arms, it comes with a velcro strap that you can use to secure one of the wheels. But the only reason I see why the arm wouldn't secure a flat is if there was no tire on the rim at all.


Mine didn't come with a velcro strap. Guess I could always make my own though. Mine is on my Honda CRV. Yes, I am able to open my cargo door, but not fully unless I remove the bike. Not sure how the door works on the RAV4.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

I am in the market for a hitch rack for my 2010 focus and am really on the fence about this one, i love the design but is hard justifying $300 for a single rack especially since i was getting ready to order the swagman xc2 for $140 shipped with the same end result I know the quality is prob. better with the 1up but dam decisions,decisions especially reading all these positive reviews.


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## Prexus2005 (Mar 18, 2005)

okiemtnbkr said:


> Looks like the black racks are available now. I like the silver one on my grey car, but for those of you who can't live without black.... they are $50 more:
> 
> http://1upusa.com/1upusarackblack.htm


Those black racks look SWEET! but I'm balking at the $350 for single and $250 for additional add-on... $500 to hold 2... or $850 for 3... yikes...

Are the locking tool/bolts universal or does each rack come with a slightly different tool/bolt? (I'm talking about the bolt that locks the rack into the hitches.) Don't like the idea that if they are universal, someone could walk up, cut a cable and load the rack with bike(s) onto their truck and be gone in 20 seconds!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Prexus2005 said:


> Those black racks look SWEET! but I'm balking at the $350 for single and $250 for additional add-on... $500 to hold 2... or $850 for 3... yikes...
> 
> Are the locking tool/bolts universal or does each rack come with a slightly different tool/bolt? (I'm talking about the bolt that locks the rack into the hitches.) Don't like the idea that if they are universal, someone could walk up, cut a cable and load the rack with bike(s) onto their truck and be gone in 20 seconds!


It's $600 to hold 2, not $500.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Prexus2005 said:


> Those black racks look SWEET! but I'm balking at the $350 for single and $250 for additional add-on... $500 to hold 2... or $850 for 3... yikes...
> 
> Are the locking tool/bolts universal or does each rack come with a slightly different tool/bolt? (I'm talking about the bolt that locks the rack into the hitches.) Don't like the idea that if they are universal, someone could walk up, cut a cable and load the rack with bike(s) onto their truck and be gone in 20 seconds!


That was one of my concernes as well but after reading there site i came across this and it is another positive leaning me towards spending the cash.

"1up USA provides the anti-theft security tool needed for the 5 second job. To remove the Quik-Rack just loosen the anti-theft security expender bolt (1-2 turns) and remove the Quik-Rack from the hitch. The one-of-a-kind anti-theft security tool and expender bolt prevents rack or Add-On theft. We are so confident that our security system will prevent rack theft that if your Quik-Rack is stolen off your vehicle we will replace it for FREE!"

Especially the part about them replacing for free if it is ever stolen wow

But am still debating over the raxter found here http://www.bikerackshops.com/RX11046.html


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The price is worth every penny once you've had a chance to use it. As for the locking system, the size is universal. I guess if someone had the same size security allen wrench they could steal it but it seems like a strange thing to spend time worrying about.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Some one here figured out a way to u-lock the carrier onto the hitch that looked really clean and simple. That would sort of be the uber-lock method. I sure wouldn't worry about this rack getting stolen in most typical situations.

J.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Some one here figured out a way to u-lock the carrier onto the hitch that looked really clean and simple. That would sort of be the uber-lock method. I sure wouldn't worry about this rack getting stolen in most typical situations.
> 
> J.


I read through this entire post and didn't catch that, maybe I just missed it. Any chance you can point out where it's described, or where someone took pictures?


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

HDClown said:


> I read through this entire post and didn't catch that, maybe I just missed it. Any chance you can point out where it's described, or where someone took pictures?


I came across this old thread with pictures showing the u-lock (post #26) http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=534654

I am still on the fence between the 1up or raxter. My biggest dilemma is for the $299 price tag single 1up i can get a two bike raxter tarsus but does not appear to have the quality or warranty aarrgghhh decisions,decision's i have the money but am a cheap arse haha i want to order something this week.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

I did end up finding on flickr via a google search the guy who had his locked up with a u-lock. Here's the best shot from the album:

__
 https://flic.kr/p/3796101760

I really like the rack, but there is one thing that really bugs, me and that is no receiver hit ***** hole in the mounting bar. 1Up could simply extend that bar an extra 2 inches and put a standard size receiver pin hole in there. It could be optional for people to use and provide another mechanism against theft (hitch pin w/lock). No traditional anti-theft mechanism for the rack itself bugs me. Anti-theft allen keys are easy to buy, and a simple vise-grip will let you unscrew the bolt.

Additional, even though I've read tons of reviews of how the carrier doesn't move, It really bothers me that the only thing holding the carrier into the receiver is a wedge fit from the small face of a ball against a flat piece of steel. I'm having personal issues trusting that by itself. So much that I can't convince myself to buy the rack.

I actually e-mailed Carl and asked if he could custom make me a unit with a mounting bar that was extended with a pin. If he is willing to do that, and the extra price isn't high, I'm going to buy one; Carl has done customizations for at least one other mtbr.com member: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=663643 . So I'm hoping he's willing to do one for me.

I've looked at the Yakima Hold Up and Thule T2 916XTR and each has one big thing that bugs me, but those things aren't as big as the one thing that bugs me about the 1Up. The only other rack I'm considering is Kuat NV and I haven't seen it in person yet. There is 1 local dealer, so I'm hoping they have one in stock for me to check out.

Right now, there is nothing that bugs me about the Kuat NV, so if I had to pull the trigger, I'd probably be getting that, but the way the 1Up lets you use a single rack at a time, and especially the way it folks for storage would be huge for me, since I will frequently be going out by myself, and the rack will generally only be used on weekends, so that means sitting in the garage.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ Keep us updated. The wedge system of locking itself into the hitch is also the only part I don't like about this rack. And the price.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

HDClown said:


> I've looked at the Yakima Hold Up and Thule T2 916XTR and each has one big thing that bugs me, but those things aren't as big as the one thing that bugs me about the 1Up. The only other rack I'm considering is Kuat NV and I haven't seen it in person yet. There is 1 local dealer, so I'm hoping they have one in stock for me to check out.


What are the "one big thing"s about the Thule and Yakima?


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Hey HDClown, That was something that kind of bugged me as well but kind of eased my mind reading there site and found where they are so confident in there security system that if the rack is ever stolen they will replace it for free (not sure how that really works) And either rack i buy there will most likely be a cable running around my bike to receiver when mounted.

I also looked at the stick up and doublerack in person locally but really do not like the idea of rubbing the frame on my bikes so really want one that supports by the wheels. I think today i am pulling the trigger on the Raxter stinger found here http://www.ultimatebikehitch.com/p2-Raxter-Stinger-1-Bike-Hitch-Rack.html , i was going to buy the double version (tarsus) but really only need a single.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

I know I posted somewhere back in this thread. Still incredibly pleased with my 1Up. For me, the main two reasons continue to be its materials and the modularity.

All the other mentioned racks use quite a bit of plastic in their design. Here in AZ, the sun will eventually kill that plastic. All the other racks I've used seem cheap and ill-built relative to the 1Up.

The modularity really is the thing for me. Most often, I'm only transporting one bike. It's so much more convenient for me to have a smaller, lighter rack and be able to expand it when needed.

Yep, it's expensive. This thing really is a work of art though. The only thing I would do differently is to have bought one years ago before spending money on other racks.


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

The wedge system holds up fine. It's definitely not coming out of the hitch when it's engaged no matter what.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

Received an e-mail back form 1Up (Robbie, as opposed to Carl) and it was basically pretty short. Summarized as "the hitch won't come out, we don't do any customization". Maybe I'll reach out to the person who got Carl to custom fab him something, and see if there is some other channel I need to go through.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So after reading this thread numerous times and all the reviews elsewhere on this site, I'm going to be ordering this rack in a 2-bike setup tonight.

At first I was pretty set on buying the new 2011 Thule T2 917XTR from a vendor on here for $360 shipped. I liked the rack, but I didn't love it. Looks bulky, weighs a ton, all steel and plastic, not too mention the locking arm over the front tire and only a rear wheel strap doesn't seem to do it for me. And it definitely did not win any Mtbr.com awards or have such high 4.9x/5.00 ratings like the 1up does.

I had the Thule T2 in a cart last night but couldn't make myself check out, went back to reading this thread and the black anodized version of the 1up Quik-Rack definitely sparked some interest when I first saw it, but I couldn't stomach the $240 difference between it and the T2, and like some of the recent posters I wasn't completely sold on the hitch locking mechanism. Every other hitch has some sort of anti-wobble/locking bolt that goes through it to eliminate it slipping out.

Called 1up today in the morning and asked a couple of questions, first one was if there is any better pricing, but of course that was a no. Okay, I'm one to spend a little more when needed if I'm going to be getting a good product. Second, I asked about the expanding ball mechanism and they've never had a failure of it slipping out. Plus locking the rack to the hitch with a U-Lock will be a pretty ghetto-method of preventing something like this ever happening.

And lastly, I asked about shipping times and color selection. I kinda need this rack rather now than later and they ship the next day. After sleeping on my decision last night, I was ready to stomach the $600 for the black version, until I was told the last black was sold this weekend, and they are expecting more black in 3+ weeks. Plus paying $100 for simply a black color can be spent much better on a cable chain with lock for bike security and a U-Lock for hitch security, and some velcro wheel straps. Plus the silver will blend a lot better on my silver WRX wagon.

There's a few things that sold me on this rack, but the biggest factor was the amount of people on here that raved about it, then comes its lifetime warranty, and lastly its construction and weight. Like most have said, I hope this will be the last bike rack that I will ever buy. :thumbsup:


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

drink the kool-aid euro...

kidding aside it is the best rack out there. My LBS reps Thule, gives me discounts on all my parts etc.but I still got it. You'll love the silver,makes the col ano parts stand out. It just works simply and looks way cool doing it. Best $500 I spent aside from my new brakes last year.


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## dberndt (Apr 17, 2010)

I think if you look at the pictures of how the current screw activated retention mechanism you'd see that there must be a screw or some sort of a shaft running down the center of most of the hitch mechanism to connect the screw with the ball that pops out to lock the receiver into place. This being the case it seems like it would impossible to put a hitch pin through that area without braking compatibility with the original mechanism.

A hitch pin by itself will likely have the bike rack rocking and bouncing around more than you like due to the free play between the receiver tube and receiver shaft. As such I can't say I'm surprised 1Up didn't entertain your request.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

eurospek said:


> ^ Keep us updated. The wedge system of locking itself into the hitch is also the only part I don't like about this rack. And the price.


In life you get what you pay for and it's a rule that holds true in most circumstances.
I came from a yak rack with said hitch pins that some of you are so enamored with. Sure it'll never come loose, but it will rock and rattle constantly the entire bloody trip. The cam/wedge when tightened is how should I say it, solid. There is no movement whatsoever, like it was part of the receiver. If you're not confident it the fact of it's integrity then don't buy it. I know it isn't the rack for everyone, but hey there are numerous members here that have put this rack through hell and back on rough and bumpy roads doing stupid speeds with no issues.
To each their own.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

*My search is over.......*

Talk about timing WOW, After debating the last couple days on which one to buy my choice was made for me today when i came across,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,yep you guessed it a 1up quick rack on craigslist haha - Now it is the older version before the one they have now but appears to only have minor changes and the only one i need to address is extending the arms on one of the trays to get a little higher on my 29er tires. it is also configured a little differently with solid two racks then you add singles on top of that which i have two extra for a total of four,it does not ratchet down instead there is a knob you tighten and instead of the allen head there is a key with three sides that locks in each side of the push in pin.

I will tell you guy's that are on the fence about this rack like i was just buy it i am really impressed with the craftsmanship this thing has and the thing that really surprises me is according to the guy i bought it from he purchased it sometime around 2002 and believe me looking at it you would think it was new so these things are made to last.

My purpose of buying a rack was to leave my diesel at home and be able to drive my focus when i ride so i wanted a double rack so i am not sure if i will ever use the 3rd and 4th extension so might end up selling those but we will see.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

dberndt said:


> I think if you look at the pictures of how the current screw activated retention mechanism you'd see that there must be a screw or some sort of a shaft running down the center of most of the hitch mechanism to connect the screw with the ball that pops out to lock the receiver into place. This being the case it seems like it would impossible to put a hitch pin through that area without braking compatibility with the original mechanism.
> 
> A hitch pin by itself will likely have the bike rack rocking and bouncing around more than you like due to the free play between the receiver tube and receiver shaft. As such I can't say I'm surprised 1Up didn't entertain your request.


Doesn't really matter at this point, but it is possible to do. There are a few racks that use the same type of wedge mechanism as 1Up does, plus have a hitch pin slot. Those racks are designed and advertised so that the hitch pin is used as the security and pull-out/push-in mechanism, and the wedge is the anti-rattle mechanism (they use a non-threaded anti-rattle bolt for the hitch pin).


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

HDClown said:


> I read through this entire post and didn't catch that, maybe I just missed it. Any chance you can point out where it's described, or where someone took pictures?


search is your friend.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=534654

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So the rack is being delivered tomorrow. Super excited. :thumbsup:

Also ordered a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock (3.25" x 6") to secure it somehow to the hitch. Still need to order a 15' OnGuard Akita 5080 security cable from Amazon to lock the 2 bikes when traveling. Would like a Kryptonite cable but it's either 7 feet or 30 feet options from them.

But most importantly, still need to install the hitch on my WRX wagon, ordered new hardware today at the dealership today since everything's so rusted underneath my car. Chicago winters can be brutal for an undercarriage.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

I broke down and ordered a 1Up + 1 Add-On. At the end of the day, it was the lesser of all evils. Ultimately, it's foldability is a big thing for me, as the rack will never stay on the car when not in use, and garage space is always at a premium

Update: For anyone who happened to have purchased a rack in the past few months, and has a 29er, did you ask 1Up about 29er compatible arms? I asked about this and was simply told "all of our racks are compatible with 29er's". 

Since posts in this thread go back pretty far, it's hard to know if they just made a production change so that all their arms are the longer arms or what.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Rack came in today. Quality piece. The work and craftsmanship on it is beautiful. Also I'm pretty stoked that I didn't shell out the extra $100 for the black color, the silver finish looks awesome, nice and matte. Will hide scratches very well. :thumbsup: 

I did receive a lot of criticism on my Saab 9-2X forum about going with this rack, but what do they know right? They heavily insisted on roof racks or the Kuat NV rack.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

eurospek, how much trouble is it to install a hitch on the 9-2x? My fiancee has a 9-2x, it'd be cool of I could switch the rack back and forth.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Bagwhan said:


> eurospek, how much trouble is it to install a hitch on the 9-2x? My fiancee has a 9-2x, it'd be cool of I could switch the rack back and forth.


No trouble at all. Same process as on the Impreza wagon seen here, It's only 4 mounting bolts and that's it. The only hard part is the installation. I tried to install it myself but with no power tools, the rusted hardware is not budging at all and I don't want to rip or strip the bolt heads off, can't blame it after 6 Chicago winters being parked outside.

I ordered new hardware at the Suby dealership and will get this installed next week at my Suby tuner garage that handles my maintenance and mod installations.

The hitch I bought was the Curt 11318 model, cheapest on Amazon, with the biggest amount of clearance for my Prodrive exhaust on the car.

Does your fiancee drive the Linear or Aero model?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I am floored with the paranoia running through this thread. 

Congrats to the guy who found his on craigslist! That's awesome and I never even thought to look there.

FWIW, I commute 135 miles every day, 7 days a week. I carry a single 37lb bike on mine and 1up's retention mechanism has never loosened. Do I check it occasionally? Absolutely, but that's just because it's my bike and my responsibility.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

After weeks of searching, I think I'm going to settle on this rack also. I like their warranty and replacement policy if it gets stolen. One less worry on my head each time I park the car and hoping no one order the special allen wrench from the company and comes by and steal the rack off my or someone elses car.

Only wish the lock mechanism was unique to every rack; maybe a combo of key lock and allen wrench...key needs to be in unlock position to be able to turn the allen wrench or something along that line.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Look at this post from one of the other threads on this rack.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=5978995&postcount=26

If you are worried about the rack getting stolen, this ought to fix that problem. NO rack is better secured than this. I thought this was a pretty clean solution with the added benefit if a nice cable to lock the bikes to the rack.

Hope that helps.

FWIW, I've had mine for a couple of years now and still think it's a great rack. I've driven bikes thousands of miles on them. The only thing that ever happened was when I hit a massive bump in a construction zone at 80nph (how many things do you see wrong with that picture?) that practically wrecked the car. One of the wheels got a little cockeyed in the rack - totally not the fault of the rack and totally my fault. Since then, all I do for long road trips is put a toeclip strap around one of the wheels on the most outbound side of a 4 rack configuration (not needed on anything not the last bike) just to handle my paranoia.

To be clear, that bump I hit would have sent stuff flying from almost any rack I've ever had. We hit so hard that all four of our shoulder/seat belts locked and I had a bruise on my shoulder from the seat belt. I'm not even sure that our SUV didn't go a few inches airborne - it was that bad.

Damage to bikes? None. Damage to rack? None.

Very happy with this rack.

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Look at this post from one of the other threads on this rack.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=5978995&postcount=26
> 
> If you are worried about the rack getting stolen, this ought to fix that problem. NO rack is better secured than this. I thought this was a pretty clean solution with the added benefit if a nice cable to lock the bikes to the rack.


Exactly how I plan on securing mine. Along with security cables for the bikes.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Looking forward to hear your impressions of this rack when you get it.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Only wish the lock mechanism was unique to every rack; maybe a combo of key lock and allen wrench...key needs to be in unlock position to be able to turn the allen wrench or something along that line.


Have you ever seen someone else, in person, with a 1up rack? I live in the Phoenix valley and ride all over this area. I haven't seen any. The only other 1up I've seen belongs to a friend who I introduced to this rack. The only other way someone would be able to swipe your rack would mean they've been watching your habits for a while and it's hard to defend against that. It isn't like there is an army of anti-social 1up rack owners wielding their security allen wrenches looking for a rack to steal. 

And to the other guy that thinks the head of the hitch tightening bolt can be turned with a pair of vice-grips, I'm going to call BS. The bolt on mine is flush with the main plate the rack is attached to. The other security bolts used to attach other racks don't seat as flush, true. But no one is going to get your rack off your car with a pair of vice-grips. Well, I guess they could disassemble it piece by piece...


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Looking forward to hear your impressions of this rack when you get it.
> 
> J.


The first impressions of it are amazing. The quality and craftsmanship of it blows anything else out of the water. It's just pleasing to look at even (looking at it ATM as it's right by the computer desk). 

I'm glad that I paid the $140 difference between it and the Thule T2 and even more happier that I didn't go for the black one.

Although I will call 1up in the week to ask about the platform system you have to use on a roof rack in the future. If it's more $$$ than I will stay with what I have and continue using a hitch on my next car.

First ride impressions soon, just waiting for hitch hardware and installation of the hitch on my WRX wagon, stupid rusted hardware. :madman:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You will really appreciate the benefit over the T2 when you go to put it on the car. This takes you about 30 seconds and about 30 seconds to add each additional bike kit. It's super easy and light to do that and it stores really well. I think when the T2 is full up you are wrestling with an 80lb rack and it doesn't store well.

The other nice piece is that you only have to add as many trays as you need. That's really nice.

J.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

racerwad said:


> Congrats to the guy who found his on craigslist! That's awesome and I never even thought to look there.


Thanks - I got really lucky as i am sure most will not let them go once they have one even if it is the older version.

Btw i finally had a chance to break mine in today and could not be happier especially seeing how it has been stored in my trunk all week which is very convenient.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The nice thing about their lifetime warranty is that you should be able to get the upgrades as they improve their rack for not too much money. I have the same older style as you and they offered to put on the newer trays and arms for not much. In fact, they would do the the work and the cost included shipping both ways.

BTW, nice bike.

Oh, and they _may_ limit the lifetime warranty to original owners, but never hurts to ask.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> The nice thing about their lifetime warranty is that you should be able to get the upgrades as they improve their rack for not too much money. I have the same older style as you and they offered to put on the newer trays and arms for not much.* In fact, they would do the the work and the cost included shipping both ways.*
> 
> BTW, nice bike.
> 
> Oh, and they _may_ limit the lifetime warranty to original owners, but never hurts to ask.


Now that's service. :thumbsup:

I loved the fact that I was able to call them over in the neighboring state and speak with someone after a ring or two. Going with one of the mainstream companies like Yakima or Thule, I'm sure such quick service would be lost.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

I am still waiting on the roof rack compatible version that they said will be available "next month". That was last summer.

Single tray I have works just fine though. I guess I should give up and buy another foldable tray. 

That sucks though - this thread with pictures of the roof rack compatible trays was the reason I bought it.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

racerwad said:


> The nice thing about their lifetime warranty is that you should be able to get the upgrades as they improve their rack for not too much money. I have the same older style as you and they offered to put on the newer trays and arms for not much. In fact, they would do the the work and the cost included shipping both ways.
> 
> BTW, nice bike.
> 
> Oh, and they _may_ limit the lifetime warranty to original owners, but never hurts to ask.


Thanks :thumbsup: And i will give them a call because the trays seem fine for my 26" but could be a little longer for my 29er so i would be willing to pay to have them upgraded.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> Thanks :thumbsup: And i will give them a call because the trays seem fine for my 26" but could be a little longer for my 29er so i would be willing to pay to have them upgraded.


Yeah, my version came with arms that are quite a bit longer than the ones in your pic. They work great even for 29 inch wheels, and offer even more security for 26 inch ones. For anyone who is wondering, on the new version the arms are more than long enough for 29ers, the old ones would be too small for comfort. I'm not sure when they made the change, but the one I ordered last year has the longer arms.

Sorry I didn't see your post earlier HDClown, but it looks like you ordered one anyway. You'll be very happy. This is such a great rack. The best part is being able to run just 1 tray for the majority of the time when I just have my bike. So much cleaner.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Yeah, my version came with arms that are quite a bit longer than the ones in your pic. They work great even for 29 inch wheels, and offer even more security for 26 inch ones. For anyone who is wondering, on the new version the arms are more than long enough for 29ers, the old ones would be too small for comfort. I'm not sure when they made the change, but the one I ordered last year has the longer arms


When you have a chance can you measure how long they are from bottom pivet to top ? I am thinking about having the machine shop next door to me to make some extensions. Thanks


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> When you have a chance can you measure how long they are from bottom pivet to top ? I am thinking about having the machine shop next door to me to make some extensions. Thanks


Sure. I'll try to remember when I get home. I'll also try and post some pics with my 29er and my 26er on the rack. The thing I'd be concerned about is if the tray is long enough to fit the longer arms when they are folded down. The trays may be shorter on the older version, but I'm not sure. I'll measure the distance of the trays for you as well. It would suck to get longer arms and not be able to fold them down all the way.


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## PainkillerSPE (Feb 15, 2009)

Just ordered one based off the reviews. I was torn between this one and the Raxter Tarsus. 

Even thought the Tarsus was much cheaper, the 1 Up rack offers much more functionality and folds up cleaner. I like the fact that I still can have access to the rear hatch of my vehicle with bikes loaded. Might as well spend the money and get the last bike rack I will ever need . 

I ordered an hour ago and already have a shipping confirmation and tracking number  Great service already


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Could someone tell me if the 1up Quik-Rack will clear my bumper when installed and when folded up? Here's a screenshot showing the distance from the 3/4" hole to the edge of my bumper (the red line) is 6.5 inches. If it helps, this is a Honda Odyssey 2006 using a Class 3 Hidden Hitch.

I'm trying to avoid installing a hitch extender.

Thanks!


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

The mounting post on the Quik-Rack is 6" from end to end, but it's actually 5 3/4" of usable distance. The center of ball inside the post is 2 1/4 from the end. You need to insert the post into the hitch carrier 3 inches.

Measure the distance from the face of the hitch receiver to the bumper and base it off that. 

Also, the 1up has 3 different positions, fully upright, fully down, and angled in-between those. It might be tough to use the fully upright position, but I think you are fine otherwise.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Could someone tell me if the 1up Quik-Rack will clear my bumper when installed and when folded up? Here's a screenshot showing the distance from the 3/4" hole to the edge of my bumper (the red line) is 6.5 inches. If it helps, this is a Honda Odyssey 2006 using a Class 3 Hidden Hitch.
> 
> I'm trying to avoid installing a hitch extender.


I use 1up on Honda Odyssey 2005 with what seems to be an exact same hitch. It barely clears the bumper when folded up (without a bike, obviously) - with hitch pushed all the way back. One can not push it all the way, then it will clear for sure.

Plenty of space for the rack and any bike when opened up in the working position.

If you ask me and willing to wait until I remember to do that - I can snap a photo of it in the folded position.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Axe said:


> I am still waiting on the roof rack compatible version that they said will be available "next month". That was last summer.
> 
> Single tray I have works just fine though. I guess I should give up and buy another foldable tray.
> 
> That sucks though - this thread with pictures of the roof rack compatible trays was the reason I bought it.


That's probably my fault (that was my rack). Cal sold me a prototype and asked for feedback. I gave him that and suggested that the come up with a less fiddly way to connect it to the bars. He had the traditional 4 long bolts through a plate with 4 nuts on the bottom. After having dealt with them, I suspect he is working on that plan...

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

HDClown said:


> The mounting post on the Quik-Rack is 6" from end to end, but it's actually 5 3/4" of usable distance. The center of ball inside the post is 2 1/4 from the end. You need to insert the post into the hitch carrier 3 inches.
> 
> Measure the distance from the face of the hitch receiver to the bumper and base it off that.
> 
> Also, the 1up has 3 different positions, fully upright, fully down, and angled in-between those. It might be tough to use the fully upright position, but I think you are fine otherwise.


I believe you only need to insert the ball 1" into the receiver. I'd check with 1upUSA but I'm pretty sure that's it. It doesn't take much to get it to the point where it gets past the bumper, at least saying so based on my volvo p.o.s. XC90.

J.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> I believe you only need to insert the ball 1" into the receiver. I'd check with 1upUSA but I'm pretty sure that's it. It doesn't take much to get it to the point where it gets past the bumper, at least saying so based on my volvo p.o.s. XC90.
> 
> J.


That is correct. What i posted said that the *post* needs to go in 3" which puts the ball in roughly 3/4' past the end of the receiver. The instructions say the ball needs to be into the receiver "at least 1 inch".


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

ah. makes sense. I did remember it correctly.

j.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Axe said:


> I use 1up on Honda Odyssey 2005 with what seems to be an exact same hitch. It barely clears the bumper when folded up (without a bike, obviously) - with hitch pushed all the way back. One can not push it all the way, then it will clear for sure.
> 
> Plenty of space for the rack and any bike when opened up in the working position.
> 
> If you ask me and willing to wait until I remember to do that - I can snap a photo of it in the folded position.


Thanks! That would be great if you have time. My hitch is the Hidden Hitch Class 3 2" which is the same company as the Draw Tite.

I saw someone use a Curt hitch and that came a lot closer to the edge of the bumper..almost flush w/ the bumper. I don't remember what year. Too late to buy a Curt hitch instead.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

Received my Quik-Rack today. Construction and design is certainly top notch. I still would feel better (even if it's not justified) had they extended the receiving post a few extra inches and put the standard hole in it, but oh well.

Figured I'd do an un-boxing set of pictures on a current shipping variant. Not much has changed over the years it seems.

Oh yea, there is simply NO WAY someone could use a vise grips to unscrew the rack from the receiver hitch. However, removing an add-on rack could EASILY be accomplished with a vise grips. Securing the add-on racks to the main unit would be a necessity IMO.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks! The pixs are very helpful showing how it look like close up.

I did notice that it looks like there are only two screws that holds the additional bike add-on. Also, if you don't mind, could you measure the length that I drew a red line next to in your pix?

Thanks again!


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

That's correct, each add-on is only held on by the two bolts. They are beefy.

The piece you are referring to is 6" long, although if you account for the welding, it's only 5 3/4"


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks HDClown!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Excellent pics HDClown.

As for the roof-rack options, I called 1up today and asked about them. They are about 2 weeks away, they are waiting on some parts for them. I asked about price and was told to expect $189. I guess that's per tray and as for them working with the hitch mounting units, I didn't get a clear answer to that part, as they are working on it. 

It would be nice for them to work with the hitch system as I could definitely see myself sending in my folding trays to be swapped out for the roof-rack mounted trays and simply reuse the two locking arms and hardware for the wheels in the future if I ever decide not to run a hitch on my next car which will be a MINI most likely and the WRX wagon would go to my younger brother. So swapping between roof and hitch mounts between the two cars would nice with the same set of trays. :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> When you have a chance can you measure how long they are from bottom pivet to top ? I am thinking about having the machine shop next door to me to make some extensions. Thanks


Here you can see the shorter arms, see how they don't meet almost in the middle by the black area?










The longer (current) arms meet like so:










*As for their measurement from bottom pivot to the end of the arm is just slightly under 26.5 inches.*


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

eurospek said:


> Excellent pics HDClown.
> 
> As for the roof-rack options, I called 1up today and asked about them. They are about 2 weeks away, they are waiting on some parts for them. I asked about price and was told to expect $189. I guess that's per tray and as for them working with the hitch mounting units, I didn't get a clear answer to that part, as they are working on it.
> 
> It would be nice for them to work with the hitch system as I could definitely see myself sending in my folding trays to be swapped out for the roof-rack mounted trays and simply reuse the two locking arms and hardware for the wheels in the future if I ever decide not to run a hitch on my next car which will be a MINI most likely and the WRX wagon would go to my younger brother. So swapping between roof and hitch mounts between the two cars would nice with the same set of trays. :thumbsup:


Yep, I got an email from them as well. I am on the wait list. 

My second car, M-B R350, does not take hitch. Occasionally want to share one tray from my Odyssey.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Axe said:


> Yep, I got an email from them as well. I am on the wait list.
> 
> My second car, M-B R350, does not take hitch. Occasionally want to share one tray from my Odyssey.


Did I miss anything that was mentioned in the email?


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

eurospek said:


> Did I miss anything that was mentioned in the email?


No not really.

But to be honest, they have expected this version by last summer, never got around producing. Lets see what happens.

I assume that is the same version that is shown in this thread.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

What's the steel ball for where you slide it into the hitch receiver?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> What's the steel ball for where you slide it into the hitch receiver?


That's the beauty of this rack. Have you not read up on it? It's also why others have mentioned that you only need to insert the ball 1" into the receiver. It's the retention device that holds the rack onto your car and eliminates the hassle of a hitch pin. You do not need to insert the ball to the point where it meets the hitch pin hole in your receiver.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

I need to check out my hitch receiver closer than and see if there's a hole on my receiver where this ball can lock on. I never really paid close attention to it or used it since installationing it a few weeks back.

I would imagine it's similar to how a socket wrenches work with the ball being depress when installing a socket and pops back into the half circle grove in the socket.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

The ball doesn't lock into a hole. It just wedges into the receiver.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

eurospek said:


> As for the roof-rack options, I called 1up today and asked about them. They are about 2 weeks away, they are waiting on some parts for them.


Post some pix if and when anyone gets the roof rack. Thanks in advance!


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> I need to check out my hitch receiver closer than and see if there's a hole on my receiver where this ball can lock on. I never really paid close attention to it or used it since installationing it a few weeks back.
> 
> I would imagine it's similar to how a socket wrenches work with the ball being depress when installing a socket and pops back into the half circle grove in the socket.


You do not need a hole. It wedges into a corner and locks the rack in place. Seems to be rock solid.

Bike rack does not get a lot, if any, of lengthwise directed load.

That is the whole point that the rack is light, foldable, and installs, due to this locking solution, in seconds. My wife can do it, without much trouble, with a single rack. So you do not carry around many pounds of dead weight that you use occasionally (and that eats about 1% of you fuel all the time, just from the weight alone).


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> I would imagine it's similar to how a socket wrenches work with the ball being depress when installing a socket and pops back into the half circle grove in the socket.


You're imagining wrong. As I and others have mentioned, ball presses against the wall of the receiver tube, locking the rack into place. No need to line anything up. In fact, if you were to line up the ball with the hole (which wouldn't really work because the ball presses against the corner of the tube), it would defeat the purpose altogether.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> eurospek said:
> 
> 
> > As for the roof-rack options, I called 1up today and asked about them. They are about 2 weeks away, they are waiting on some parts for them.QUOTE]
> ...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

racerwad said:


> You're imagining wrong. As I and others have mentioned, ball presses against the wall of the receiver tube, locking the rack into place. No need to line anything up. In fact, if you were to line up the ball with the hole (which wouldn't really work because the ball presses against the corner of the tube), it would defeat the purpose altogether.


Here's a picture of the ball. It wedges up in the corner of the receiver not in the hole. You need to have the ball at least 1" into the receiver. It holds very tightly with no wobble. It's both a retention device and an anti wobble device.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> This is when they first started working on the roof trays about two years ago.


I officially hate you - until I get my own.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Here's a picture of the ball. It wedges up in the corner of the receiver not in the hole. You need to have the ball at least 1" into the receiver. It holds very tightly with no wobble. It's both a retention device and an anti wobble device.


Not exactly sure how the ball actually create a tighter fit. Once you insert it into the hitch receiver, the ball presses again the hitch receiver corner, but if the rack wobble around, doesn't the ball get push in??? unless the ball is NOT on some sort of spring and is stationary, then how would that different from just having no ball there at all since all 4 sides will be in contact w/ the inside of the hitch receiver? Basically, the bigger the surface contact, the less wobble you will get and a ball contact in a corner is small vs a flat surface to a flat surface.

Or is it when you turn the bolt to secure it, the ball actually gets pushed up against the hitch receiver and harder you turn bolt w/ the allen wrench, the harder the ball is pushed up against the corner of the hitch receiver? In this case, then it will make more sense.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Or is it when you turn the bolt to secure it, the ball actually gets pushed up against the hitch receiver and harder you turn bolt w/ the allen wrench, the harder the ball is pushed up against the corner of the hitch receiver? In this case, then it will make more sense.


Exactly. Allen bolt wedges the ball into the corner. Works very very nicely.

You can not do that with a regular trailer, as they will pull out eventually. But a bike rack does not pull out.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Not exactly sure how the ball actually create a tighter fit. Once you insert it into the hitch receiver, the ball presses again the hitch receiver corner, but if the rack wobble around, doesn't the ball get push in??? unless the ball is NOT on some sort of spring and is stationary, then how would that different from just having no ball there at all since all 4 sides will be in contact w/ the inside of the hitch receiver? Basically, the bigger the surface contact, the less wobble you will get and a ball contact in a corner is small vs a flat surface to a flat surface.
> 
> Or is it when you turn the bolt to secure it, the ball actually gets pushed up against the hitch receiver and harder you turn bolt w/ the allen wrench, the harder the ball is pushed up against the corner of the hitch receiver? In this case, then it will make more sense.


There is no spring. When you turn the nut with the special wrench, it cranks the ball tighter into the corner of the hitch. It is rock solid, does not move and does not wobble. Besides that, it goes on fast and easy. Also, it does not loosen.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Axe said:


> I officially hate you - until I get my own.


Sorry. 

I'm wondering what mechanism he is going to use to connect the trays to the load bars. The way mine goes on is with a thick aluminum plate and 4 3/8" nuts that you have to turn for each bar. For two bars, that's 16 nuts to tighten. Didn't like that part.

J.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Sorry.
> 
> I'm wondering what mechanism he is going to use to connect the trays to the load bars. The way mine goes on is with a thick aluminum plate and 4 3/8" nuts that you have to turn for each bar. For two bars, that's 16 nuts to tighten. Didn't like that part.
> 
> J.


My wish is it is something that I can leave permanently connected to the bars, while I use the rack on a hitch. I do put up crossbars on only occasionally, as I usually just throw my bike inside on that car.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You could do that. My rack is on my car almost all year long. Winter it has a ski box typically through March. End of March the bike stuff goes on. So, I need it to come off. The easier on and off the better.

j.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

So everyone that bought a 1ups rack is 100% sure when the roof mount support comes out, the bike rack is not going to change in some minor way?

I'm waiting for the roof rack to come out before I jump on the band wagon and order myself a 1ups. I just want to make sure they don't make any minor changes to the rack for a better fit.

Besides, I haven't even decided on a bike for myself yet and my order for the SC Juliana is another 6 weeks out.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Here you can see the shorter arms, see how they don't meet almost in the middle by the black area?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool, Thanks for the info. I see what you mean about not meeting in the middle and i measure mine and its barely 22.5" And i am not sure i could add 4" because of the way the older model is designed.

I am not sure who i was talking to at 1up but even he admitted it was not the best customer service but when i asked him about making some adapters or something to make mine fit a 29er his response was "We are to busy and do not have time so you should list/sell it on ebay and buy a new one as there are plenty of guy's that will buy it for $40 less than a new one" Not really sure what to think of that.

I will say one thing i really like about my older version is the hitch set-up, instead of the ball system there is a button that snaps in one side of the hole for the pin and on the other side is a special key that puts pressure on the rack to receiver so it not only stops the wobble but is a good anti theft devise. I will say either rack is a very,very impressive piece of art i am proud to mount my bike to i just wish they were willing to help me extend mine.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> I am not sure who i was talking to at 1up but even he admitted it was not the best customer service but when i asked him about making some adapters or something to make mine fit a 29er his response was "We are to busy and do not have time so you should list/sell it on ebay and buy a new one as there are plenty of guy's that will buy it for $40 less than a new one" Not really sure what to think of that.


Sounds like it was probably Robbie. He is the peson who replied to a few of my e-mails and his customer service skills where less then stellar. It seems others have talked directly with Carl himself, the guy who started 1up, and he seemed much more willing to go the extra mile for people.



SoCalNomadRider said:


> I will say one thing i really like about my older version is the hitch set-up, instead of the ball system there is a button that snaps in one side of the hole for the pin and on the other side is a special key that puts pressure on the rack to receiver so it not only stops the wobble but is a good anti theft devise. I will say either rack is a very,very impressive piece of art i am proud to mount my bike to i just wish they were willing to help me extend mine.


Could you post a picture of your older version hitch configuration?


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

Has anyone been rear-ended with their 1up attached??? I have. :-(


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

GDubT said:


> Has anyone been rear-ended with their 1up attached??? I have. :-(


You got yourself a new hitch, based on the latest design and hitch receiver! Just remember, insurance companies, yours and the guy insurance company, will always try to screw you over and short change you.

I got rear ended(no bike rack installed or hitch) and my mistake was not seeing the doctors more then once. See a doctor, a chiropracter, a massage therapist, etc...

Yes, I'm getting screw somewhat by the guy's insurance company who rear ended me. They try to trick you into signing a release waiver asap. Just remember, you have 2 years from the date of the accident to sue..at least in CA.

And, lastly, they will say some of your medical bills will not be cover...just tell them, it doesn't matter, all you know is you're in pain and you're seeing the doctor regardless of what the insurance company say. At the end, we'll let the court decide what bills are cover and what are not. That will shut them up. LOL!!!


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> I will say one thing i really like about my older version is the hitch set-up, instead of the ball system there is a button that snaps in one side of the hole for the pin and on the other side is a special key that puts pressure on the rack to receiver so it not only stops the wobble but is a good anti theft devise. I will say either rack is a very,very impressive piece of art i am proud to mount my bike to i just wish they were willing to help me extend mine.


Yeah, I think you are having the same misunderstanding that other people are. The ball is not designed to snap into the hitch pin hole in the receiver. It is not analogous to the ball-detent on a ratchet wrench. The ball is supposed to exert pressure on the wall of the receiver tube. In fact, if you were to line up directly with the hitch pin hole, you would have less retention force than if you were to avoid it.

Of course, I could be totally misunderstanding what you are describing, so pics of this setup would be great.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Yes, if you look at the pictures of the part that fits in the receiver, you'll notice that the ball does not even line up with the location of the hitch pin hole, it's up in the corner.

@SoCalNomadRider - Are you saying that the earlier racks had a far different design? If so, would love to see a picture.

J.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

racerwad said:


> Yeah, I think you are having the same misunderstanding that other people are. The ball is not designed to snap into the hitch pin hole in the receiver. It is not analogous to the ball-detent on a ratchet wrench. The ball is supposed to exert pressure on the wall of the receiver tube. In fact, if you were to line up directly with the hitch pin hole, you would have less retention force than if you were to avoid it.
> 
> Of course, I could be totally misunderstanding what you are describing, so pics of this setup would be great.


Sorry for the confusion but i totally understand how the new ones do not go in deep enough or even line up with the pin hole and rely on pressure to lock it in, I was just saying my older version is waaay different and does lock in to hole for the pin on one side.

I am leaving work now and will take some pictures when i get there :thumbsup:


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yes, if you look at the pictures of the part that fits in the receiver, you'll notice that the ball does not even line up with the location of the hitch pin hole, it's up in the corner.
> 
> @SoCalNomadRider - Are you saying that the earlier racks had a far different design? If so, would love to see a picture.
> 
> J.


Yes the earlier one i have actually has a aluminum button that locks in one side of the hole for the pin (which honestly i feel more safe then current setup but it works) then a special key you slide in the other hole and tighten which puts pressure against the inside of receiver making impossible to take off with key or whole hitch.

I am on my way home and will take some pictures


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

What are some of you folks using for locks/cables with your 1up? I'm going to get a Kryptonite U-Lock to secure the 1up to the hitch loop, but I also want something to secure the bikes as well. Could just go with a basic looped cable, or an actual cable lock like a Kryptonite Hardwire. 

I'm primarily after a basic visual deterrent. In general, the bikes would only be unattended for an hour during breakfast, lunch or dinner... low crime areas. I'd like to double over my purchase if possible to be used without the rack for locking the bike up to a bike rack outside some establishment as well. So I was leaning towards a full cable lock, as opposed to a looped wire.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

HDClown said:


> What are some of you folks using for locks/cables with your 1up? I'm going to get a Kryptonite U-Lock to secure the 1up to the hitch loop, but I also want something to secure the bikes as well. Could just go with a basic looped cable, or an actual cable lock like a Kryptonite Hardwire.
> 
> I'm primarily after a basic visual deterrent. In general, the bikes would only be unattended for an hour during breakfast, lunch or dinner... low crime areas. I'd like to double over my purchase if possible to be used without the rack for locking the bike up to a bike rack outside some establishment as well. So I was leaning towards a full cable lock, as opposed to a looped wire.


I just use a thick cable. It is a deterrent, not a foolproof solution.

Nice thing about 1up, is that it is so easy to take the rack off, and throw it into your garage, or inside the car, so no need to worry about losing the rack itself.

When parked for a long time I always throw bikes inside the car anyway.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I use a chain with a cover from bikeregistery.com. If you guys are serious about deterrent use only, then I don't see why you'd bother paying more for a name brand setup. Their kits are really pretty cheap and come custom lengths.

Locking the rack itself seems unnecessary for the reasons people have mentioned.

I'm looking forward to pics of the older setup. Seems interesting, but I fail to see how it's "better." If by turning the key from the opposite side of the ball pushes the ball into the hitch pin hole for retention, then the only thing that is providing force is the circumference of the ball which is able to fit into the hitch pin. There is a lot more surface area between the ball and the receiver tube wall.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

[QUOTE
I'm looking forward to pics of the older setup. Seems interesting, but I fail to see how it's "better." If by turning the key from the opposite side of the ball pushes the ball into the hitch pin hole for retention, then the only thing that is providing force is the circumference of the ball which is able to fit into the hitch pin. There is a lot more surface area between the ball and the receiver tube wall.[/QUOTE]

I am not sure if it is necessarily better but i do feel a little safer knowing there is something on the bike rack (button) going directly thru the hole on the receiver in the event some how the locking mechanism was to fail.

Also note how the 1 1/4" adapter slides off then when used in 2" receiver it has another button that locks in the hitch pin hole then gets tightened with special key as well.

And sorry for crappy pictures but camera is acting up so i had to use my phone.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Double post


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Is that pin spring loaded? That is a clever idea for sure. The fact that it's an actual pin rather than the ball seems like a better plan, too.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

racerwad said:


> Is that pin spring loaded? That is a clever idea for sure. The fact that it's an actual pin rather than the ball seems like a better plan, too.


Yes exactly, It is spring loaded.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> Yes exactly, It is spring loaded.


I should say I prefer the current setup. It jams the receiver in both vertical and horizontal direction, and it certainly easier to use and harder to set wrong.

I did not notice it getting any loose whatsoever even after long and fairly rough road trips. I would be more worried on not getting a pin into a hole when hooking the rack back - as I do take it off every single use: which I consider the main advantage of the system.


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## PainkillerSPE (Feb 15, 2009)

Mine came in today  








This beauty is made of 100% aluminum in the USA. It folds up to almost nothing and is feather light at about 30 lbs. The entire rack was shipped fully assembled.









The rack took a whole 30 seconds to install and is held in place with a antitheft expander bolt that prevents swaying. If the rack is ever stolen 1 up will replace it at no charge.









Folds up to an extremely small profile on the vehicle.









Bike can be loaded in seconds and is held securely in place without ever touching the frame. The carrier can accommodate all tire sizes.









Finally the rack folds away fully loaded to allow access to rear hatches and trunks.

I can not find a single fault with this rack. It's like a work of art and is expertly manufactured. Best bike related purchase I ever made. Highly recommend it


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Nice pics.

And to answer a previous comment, I ended up buying this and this to lock the rack to the hitch and the bikes as well.

Also ordered some 24"x2" velcro cinch straps for the wheel trays, probably over doing it but might come in handy if I ever get a flat and limit the movement of the bikes on the rack.


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## PainkillerSPE (Feb 15, 2009)

eurospek said:


> Nice pics.
> 
> And to answer a previous comment, I ended up buying this and this to lock the rack to the hitch and the bikes as well.
> 
> Also ordered some 24"x2" velcro cinch straps for the wheel trays, probably over doing it but might come in handy if I ever get a flat and limit the movement of the bikes on the rack.


My rack had a velco strap included in the box. The bike is so secure I did not use it.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

I did ask them about the flat question, and they said the rack would still secure the bike just fine.

I am close to pulling the trigger on this. At first I didn't like the fact that for a 2" hitch, I had to use an adapter. But my fiancee's car can only accommodate the smaller hitch (I think) so we may install that on her car and then have one rack for the both of us.


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## Phierce (Jun 1, 2008)

They include the strap to attach the rack to the the hitch chain loops for extra security. Guess they had a couple guys not tighten the receiver bolt properly so they decided to add the strap.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Phierce said:


> They include the strap to attach the rack to the the hitch chain loops for extra security. Guess they had a couple guys not tighten the receiver bolt properly so they decided to add the strap.


I fail to see how a 20" velcro cinch strap would be extra security for keeping the rack plus a bike on it from sliding out. That's why I bought a Kryptonite U-Lock. Now it's really not going anywhere and I can sleep at night.  Using the velcro strap there just seems silly.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

Used the 1up today for the first time. Very easy to use (as expected). Bikes hold in place very well. Did not observe much flexing going on in the rack itself in terms of up and down movement. Bikes move slightly forward/back (in relation to the car), but very solid in general.

Pictures on our 2006 Acura MDX (with Curt 2" Hitch). My bike is a 29er, wife's bike has 26 wheels


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

I was this close > < to pulling the trigger, but now have a question. A big selling point to me was the lighter weight, I was under the impression that the rack was a LOT lighter. But after going to the checkout page for the rack and one add on, and seeing "50 lbs", that is the weight more or less of Thule and Yakima. Where's the weight savings? Maybe I just didn't read close enough here or on the website, but after reading closer on the website, it seems that the much lighter weight just comes from the fact that you can take it apart easily, and individually, each piece is lighter?

Am I missing something? Is that the case? And if so, does that really amount to a much lighter rack?


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

After pages of reading and studying the pics, I'm still missing something 
What is the locking mechanism under the red lever that prevents it from opening once loaded?


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Bagwhan said:


> I was this close > < to pulling the trigger, but now have a question. A big selling point to me was the lighter weight, I was under the impression that the rack was a LOT lighter. But after going to the checkout page for the rack and one add on, and seeing "50 lbs", that is the weight more or less of Thule and Yakima. Where's the weight savings? Maybe I just didn't read close enough here or on the website, but after reading closer on the website, it seems that the much lighter weight just comes from the fact that you can take it apart easily, and individually, each piece is lighter?
> 
> Am I missing something? Is that the case? And if so, does that really amount to a much lighter rack?


Post 54 - first tray is 25lb. Additional ones are lighter.

It makes a huge difference. My wife can install this rack herself, she can not even try that with regular racks that are in one large piece. Adding each next tray is similarly easy. I am a burly guy, but I would not put Thule/Yakima/Kuat on an off on a regular basis, both because of weight and the hassle of mounting.

Even two pieces is lighter then most racks. But of cause there is no magic - got to have material somewhere.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

Noclutch said:


> After pages of reading and studying the pics, I'm still missing something
> What is the locking mechanism under the red lever that prevents it from opening once loaded?


Friction and pressure. There ia metal-to-metal contact at an angle which prevents the red lever from moving along the rail in an open position.

This is the best picture I could get:


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

Bagwhan said:


> I was this close > < to pulling the trigger, but now have a question. A big selling point to me was the lighter weight, I was under the impression that the rack was a LOT lighter. But after going to the checkout page for the rack and one add on, and seeing "50 lbs", that is the weight more or less of Thule and Yakima. Where's the weight savings? Maybe I just didn't read close enough here or on the website, but after reading closer on the website, it seems that the much lighter weight just comes from the fact that you can take it apart easily, and individually, each piece is lighter?
> 
> Am I missing something? Is that the case? And if so, does that really amount to a much lighter rack?


Combined shipping weight for the first rack and one add-on was 54 lbs. There is easily a few pounds of cardboard in that weightm plus maybe a pound or two of the allen keys. The rest would be the racks. So it's pretty close to that 50 lb combined mark.

However, the big difference comes when you handle them as two separate units. That makes a huge difference. When I used the rack this past weekend for the first time, I handled it as two units. I uninstalled it the same way, removed second, then first. It took a maximum of 10 seconds (if that) to get the second rack on or off from the first, and handling them as two separate pieces was well worth an extra 20 seconds combined.

Only reason I'd probably personally ever keep the two units combined when going on/off the car is if I was going to be needing the rack back-to-back days, or needed to put it on/off the car multiple times in the same day. Otherwise I'd separate them for ease of on/off.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The trick is not that it is 54 lbs, but that you handle the weight in much smaller, far less awkward increments than that. With all of the other racks on the market, not only do they weigh a lot more, you need to pretty much deal with them as a single unit. Huge difference.

J.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> The trick is not that it is 54 lbs, but that you handle the weight in much smaller, far less awkward increments than that. With all of the other racks on the market, not only do they weigh a lot more, you need to pretty much deal with them as a single unit. Huge difference.
> 
> J.


That, and I usually need only one rack. So it is 25lb occasionally, or 55+ always there. It can take about 1% of your fuel just to carry that weight around. Average car would spend almost $2K per fuel per year, so over 5 years you would save $100, if you do not have a heavy rack constantly attached as you commute to work etc..


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

HDClown said:


> Friction and pressure. There ia metal-to-metal contact at an angle which prevents the red lever from moving along the rail in an open position.
> 
> This is the best picture I could get:


So there are nothing threaded/screwed tight or ramped/cammed to lock in place?


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## ajmacdon (Oct 26, 2010)

*Another reason to get a 29r*

I just got mine in the mail today and I will echo the universal love for the thing.

One question I could not get answered before buying was if my tailgate would come down with a bike on the rack and tilted back. I know it's odd to use this on a tailgated vehicle but as much as I love my Avalanche it hauls everything well except bikes.

So, the answer, without further adieu: It depends. Works for me.

29r single speed fits great facing either way: 









Looks like I will still be able to get stuff out:









Epic 29r Fits with chain facing out:









You can see why the 29r is important, chainstay just clears gate:









My wife's Schwinn medium 26r Does NOT fit:









GT 26r just barely makes it, had to re-clock the offset quick release:









Platforms just fit as well, probably depends on BB height:









The Avalanche has probably the worst shape for this as well, most pickup tailgates don't have the plastic on top. However, most pickups hold a bike just fine too!

All of these were taken with the rack pushed all the way into the hitch. Based on the requirement that you have the ball into the receiver at least 1" on my truck it could be pulled out up to 3 more inches but I like the idea that it works all the way in. You could also just take the bike off but this is one less motion, might help someone decide to go for this great product.

Alex


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Noclutch said:


> So there are nothing threaded/screwed tight or ramped/cammed to lock in place?


It is cammed to lock in place. That is exactly what it is - a spring loaded camming device. Sort of interface that people trust their life with, for example in rock climbing.

I think my rear axle is more likely to come loose.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Finally was able to use this rack today, setup for one bike and it's definitely one of the best purchases that I've made. Easy on and off of the bike, only thing that worries me in the rearview mirror is some swaying action when the roads get rough. But overall, I'm still 110% happy with my purchase. I'll snap some pics this weekend when I'll be hauling 2 bikes for the first true ride of the season. :thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Finally was able to use this rack today, setup for one bike and it's definitely one of the best purchases that I've made. Easy on and off of the bike, only thing that worries me in the rearview mirror is some swaying action when the roads get rough. But overall, I'm still 110% happy with my purchase. I'll snap some pics this weekend when I'll be hauling 2 bikes for the first true ride of the season. :thumbsup:


Glad to hear you like it.

Anything that you cantilever out is probably going to have some sway unless it is way, way overbuilt. That said, it's going to be much less than a steel one and due to it's construction. Most steel ones just have the single horizontal member. This rack has a much wider and more stable piece due to the box construction that holds the tray.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

If you were to see your rack from another car, I guarantee you the swaying would be non-existent. It seems works from inside because your rearview mirror vibrates a little, your head is moving, and you're a lot closer. I thought the same thing until I put my rack and bike on another car and followed them.


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

Well after 4 years of dropping the seats in my toyota solara, removing the front wheel of my bike and sliding it in through the trunk, I've decided to get a rack. I bought the hitch yesterday and just ordered the 1up this morning. His website states that they are in stock and will ship today or the next business day (my guess is Monday). I'm pretty excited, although $450 is a lot for a rack and hitch (in my opinion), I'm sure it is worth it.


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## kfb66 (Oct 27, 2010)

zeppman said:


> Well after 4 years of dropping the seats in my toyota solara, removing the front wheel of my bike and sliding it in through the trunk, I've decided to get a rack. I bought the hitch yesterday and just ordered the 1up this morning. His website states that they are in stock and will ship today or the next business day (my guess is Monday). I'm pretty excited, although $450 is a lot for a rack and hitch (in my opinion), I'm sure it is worth it.


Does $450 get you the 2-bike version?


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

I ordered a couple of days ago and received a tracking number less than an hour later.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

kfb66 said:


> Does $450 get you the 2-bike version?


I assume he meant $300 for a one-bike version and $150 for the hitch.


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

Bagwhan said:


> I assume he meant $300 for a one-bike version and $150 for the hitch.


Yes, that is what I meant. I am fairly certain a second bike tray would add $200 making my total $650.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Pics as promised. I love this rack.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

eurospek said:


> Pics as promised. I love this rack.


Hah. I had Kona (Coiler) and Transition TransAm on mine yesterday. But my TransAm is a bit more festive in the color department.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

what is the strap for?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Bagwhan said:


> what is the strap for?





Curt's installation guide said:


> *Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.*


Plus it get rids of some of the swaying.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

eurospek.. can you provide some detail on which specific u-lock, cable and lench, velcro straps for the wheels, etc. that you are using and where you purchased from?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You don't need the strap. I'm paranoid about things like that and this is way over the top for even me.

I put 4 bikes on mine and drove them 2500 miles with no problems. You only have two which decreases the lever arm substantially.

Looks great on your car. It's a terrific rack.

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> You don't need the strap. I'm paranoid about things like that and this is way over the top for even me.


Maybe you're right, next trip I'll do without the strap and see how it performs.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Exactly. You don't need it. If you do, then there is something wrong with the rack. You'd be the only 1upUSA owner that needs a strap. 

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Exactly. You don't need it. If you do, then there is something wrong with the rack. You'd be the only 1upUSA owner that needs a strap.
> 
> J.


The straps more so for the hitch than the rack itself. 

And to answer HDClown's question:



HDClown said:


> eurospek.. can you provide some detail on which specific u-lock, cable and lench, velcro straps for the wheels, etc. that you are using and where you purchased from?


Here's what I got:

Kryptonite Evolution Mini Bike U-Lock - 997931

Kryptonite Kryptoflex 1007 Bicycle Security Cable (10mm x 7-Foot)

D-Ring Cinch Strap 2"x24"

As for the security cable, 7 feet is enough to wrap around the frame and rear wheel on both bikes and return to the U-Lock at the hitch. As for the velcro straps, the 24" is a little long, you might get away with 20" length. :thumbsup:


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

I can't see voiding your hitch warranty as being much of a concern. If there is a concern it would be the rack, and based on what everyone says, it isn't a concern.

Mine is supposed to be delivered tomorrow.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Exactly. You don't need it. If you do, then there is something wrong with the rack. You'd be the only 1upUSA owner that needs a strap.
> 
> J.


Problem could be with the hitch. Some hitch mounts are pretty darn flimsy.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

A little late, but here are the pics I promised of 26 and 29 bikes on the rack.

26er with fairly big tires








29er (I happened to mount it a bit lopsided this time, but it still works. The arms are more than long enough.)








I love how this thing looks folded up on the vehicle also.


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

eurospek said:


> The straps more so for the hitch than the rack itself.
> 
> And to answer HDClown's question:
> 
> ...


Any chance you could measure the inside distance of the u-lock? I was looking at that one but I measured that I would need closer to right around 6" of clearance, so it seems like it will be to small per the specs.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

HDClown said:


> Any chance you could measure the inside distance of the u-lock? I was looking at that one but I measured that I would need closer to right around 6" of clearance, so it seems like it will be to small per the specs.


5.25/5.5"

I originally bought this one, but it's super heavy, overbuilt, and was too long for my needs and that one measures 6", I still need to return it, lol.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Yeah, there's no way you're exceeding your hitch limitation with the rack and 2 bikes. Sh*t, even a Class 1 hitch has a 200lb tongue weight limit. I can't tell, but it looks like you have a Class 2? Are you planning on strapping some cinder blocks to your rack?  

Plus it kind of defeats the purpose of a hitch rack if you're going to use a strap anyway. You might as well strap on a trunk rack. 

Also, keep in mind that the rack/bikes aren't bouncing nearly as much as it looks like in the rear view mirror. Have someone drive behind you and tell you how much it moves. My friends told me mine was rock solid and didn't move at all. The expander bolt helps. There's really no play between the hitch and the rack arm. If it's bouncing, it's because the whole vehicle is bouncing with it.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Hey All you 1up owners,

I am about to go ahead and pull the trigger on this rack, but I was hoping I can get an answer from one of you before I do. I saw in an earlier post that someone configured their 1up as a 4 bike carrier ( added 3 add-ons to the main one). On the 1up website, they say maximum bike configuration is 3 (main one to the hitch plus 2 add-ons). Are the older 1 up's built differently than newer ones or is the using the main one to the hitch plus 3 additional add-ons are a "use this config at your own risk" type of thing? Please let me know and thanks in advanced!!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

aldeezy said:


> Hey All you 1up owners,
> 
> I am about to go ahead and pull the trigger on this rack, but I was hoping I can get an answer from one of you before I do. I saw in an earlier post that someone configured their 1up as a 4 bike carrier ( added 3 add-ons to the main one). On the 1up website, they say maximum bike configuration is 3 (main one to the hitch plus 2 add-ons). Are the older 1 up's built differently than newer ones or is the using the main one to the hitch plus 3 additional add-ons are a "use this config at your own risk" type of thing? Please let me know and thanks in advanced!!


It has nothing to do with the rack and everything to do with the size of the hitch receiver and the respective load rating of the hitch. You can put 3 bikes on an 1.25" receiver and 4 bikes on a 2" one.

J.


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## d_wrek (Apr 16, 2009)

aldeezy said:


> Hey All you 1up owners,
> 
> I am about to go ahead and pull the trigger on this rack, but I was hoping I can get an answer from one of you before I do. I saw in an earlier post that someone configured their 1up as a 4 bike carrier ( added 3 add-ons to the main one). On the 1up website, they say maximum bike configuration is 3 (main one to the hitch plus 2 add-ons). Are the older 1 up's built differently than newer ones or is the using the main one to the hitch plus 3 additional add-ons are a "use this config at your own risk" type of thing? Please let me know and thanks in advanced!!


It's a use at your own risk thing. They used to advertise it as 4-max but changed it at some point probably for liability reasons. The design of the rack is the same.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Right. It's that a 1.25" industry rating on a hitch is not sufficient for 4 50lb bikes or something like that. I think a 2" hitch is typically rated for something like 300lbs of tongue weight. A 1.25" hitch is a lot less than that.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Ah. Here's the link that explains it:

http://www.1upusa.com/class_hitch.htm

J.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

JohnJ80 and d_wrek,

Thanks for your response! Thanks also for the link about the different classes of hitch receivers! I am gonna go ahead and buy the rack along with 2 add-ons(I like that new black anodized one even tho they're all $50 more, at least shipping is free). I'll buy the 3rd add-on when my youngest needs to move up in bike size (right now her's fits in the back of my SUV.) Again, thanks. Your responses (along with everyone else's input on this rack) makes me feel more comfortable about buying it!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

aldeezy said:


> JohnJ80 and d_wrek,
> 
> Thanks for your response! Thanks also for the link about the different classes of hitch receivers! I am gonna go ahead and buy the rack along with 2 add-ons(I like that new black anodized one even tho they're all $50 more, at least shipping is free). I'll buy the 3rd add-on when my youngest needs to move up in bike size (right now her's fits in the back of my SUV.) Again, thanks. Your responses (along with everyone else's input on this rack) makes me feel more comfortable about buying it!


Glad to help. Let us know how you like it.

J.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Did you guys get a tracking # after placing your order?

Thanks!


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## PainkillerSPE (Feb 15, 2009)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Did you guys get a tracking # after placing your order?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes. Mine shipped within 4 hours after ordering.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

I got a super quick tracking number as well.

Does anyone have a more secure method of locking your bike to the rack? I know cables are decent for the casual thief, but they are usually cut easily with bolt cutters.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I use a heavy duty square profile chain and ABUS lock. I'd rather use a u-lock but the design of the rack and the frame conspire against me. Never been too concerned.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Have any of you seen these eBay knock-offs? What a shame. :nono: :madman: :madmax:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Up-Single-Bik...aultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b1e8e07#ht_500wt_922

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Up-Single-Bik...047?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b1e93d7

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Up-Single-Bik...636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b1e9a0c


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

racerwad said:


> I use a heavy duty square profile chain and ABUS lock. I'd rather use a u-lock but the design of the rack and the frame conspire against me. Never been too concerned.


Have you tried the Sheldon Brown method? This, and a 4' cable to go through the front wheel works with just about any rack.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

J.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Just have a few short hauls on mine-so far it's awersome- one clean design! I am amazed how secure itseems to be-









Question for all the other 1uppers: In the rear view notice some cyclic(no pun intended) front wheel/fork wobble (obviously on the head set axis) when going down the road. Anyone found a way to eliminate this other than squashing the tires to the rim?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Nothing to worry about. If it bothers you, just take a toe clip strap and put it around the bottom of one of the wheels and the tray. 

There is no way this bike can come out of the rack. I've hit a massive bump at 80mph with 4 bikes on the back and no problems.

j.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Not worried about losing the bike, just the head set or forks cycling for hours on end on long trips I guess. The cycling just shows how the 1up it not terribly torsionally rigid- the tire arms have alot of leverage on the tray. Now if the head set was locked straight, the bike and rack would support each other torsionally. As is, the frontend and one side twist opposite of the rest of the bike and the other end of the rack. Minor quibble. I might throw a tie-down over the top tube and down again to provide just a bit of downward force on the frame/suspension...?

But I do wish I could have waited for the balck ano version


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I don't think it will cause any headset wear if that's what you are worried about. 

I suppose if it worried you then you could put one of the handlebar stabilizer things on it. Maybe the one from Park Tool or the one from Feedback Sports for their repair stands would work?

Try the torsional rigidity of the other hitch racks made from steel. They have a lot less support in that area with the arm being up on the wheel and the tray being bolted to the narrow crossbeam. The 1UpUSA rack has less torsion than the others.


J.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Oh no doubt- this rack is tits and a no brainer for me ,like them, too....
FWIW - I just tried the tie down thing, and that really stiffened things up with just a bit of preload.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

:thumbsup: 

J.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

My 1Up rack comes in today!!! 

Rant Mode: On...could've been sooner but no...UPS sucks. No wonder I don't like UPS.
1. Arrived at UPS facility on Monday afternoon at 12:00PM.
2. Sits there all day on Monday. Tuesday's night(36+hours later), it finally gets move to the UPS facility closer to my house.
3. Distance in driving between the two UP facility? 45min max.
4. Out for delivery today.

Could've been worst. Could've arrived at the first facility on Thursday and sit there for 36+ hours and..Whooopsss..UPS don't deliver on weekend, so it gets deliver on Monday instead.

Rant Mode: Off

UPDATE:
At the end of the hitch adapter, if you look inside of it, there is a red plastic cap. Anyone know what that does? I screwed on the anti-theft bolt all the way and didn't see or notice the red plastic cap moving at all.
Anyone know what the red cap inside the hitch adapter is there for?


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

I'm thinking that section is threaded all the way through. My guess is that the cap holds in the lubrication and keeps gunk from getting into the threads.

You want to be the guinea pig to investigate? I'm curious now as well.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Do you guys use anything on the railing system with the red levers that move the wheel arms? I had the rack out for the first time in a little rain shower last night, went to use it again today, and each of the mechanisms is screeching and squeaky when you move them up and down the rail. Safe to spray some WD40 on it?


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Could someone explain what the hole in the center of the addon is used for? I circle it in RED for clarification.









Next, I notice that the addon security isn't all that great. If you look at my pictures, you will see that at the end of the anti-theft bolt, is a hex nut. Couldn't a thief just walk up and unlock the nut at the end of the anti-theft bolt? Also, the anti-bolt itself isn't recessed, and if you look carefully, there are groves on it allow for a tool such as a plier to get a better grip while you have a wrench working on the hex nut.

















Overall, 1Up bike rack is great!!! I just used it today to transport a new bike home and it work flawlessly and easily. In fact, I'm going to buy another bike addon. How many bike addon can it support? I heard 3 for the 1 1/4" and 4 for the 2" hitch. Is that right?

Thanks!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Do you guys use anything on the railing system with the red levers that move the wheel arms? I had the rack out for the first time in a little rain shower last night, went to use it again today, and each of the mechanisms is screeching and squeaky when you move them up and down the rail. Safe to spray some WD40 on it?


Nope. Never used anything on it and mines been rained on plenty. Should be safe to use WD40 on any of the parts that aren't used to lock the rail - i.e. sliding parts on the sides.

J.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Nope. Never used anything on it and mines been rained on plenty. Should be safe to use WD40 on any of the parts that aren't used to lock the rail - i.e. sliding parts on the sides.
> 
> J.


I would suggest silicon spray, not WD40.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I would suggest nothing at all. Once, some chain lube dripped on one side and made it nice and quiet. I thought I would lube all the pivots and rails. Fail. The problem is that the lube loosens up the nylock nuts as well which can cause the arms to loosen up. Just keep it clean and you'll be fine. The screech just lets everyone know who has the coolest rack on the block. :thumbsup:

As for the posters who are worried about the nuts behind the security bolt: do you really think that there are roaming criminals who carry a box wrench for the sole purpose of removing _just _the add-on tray of 1up racks? Doesn't that seem like a really niche crime to be concerned about?


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## GDubT (Apr 13, 2010)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Next, I notice that the addon security isn't all that great. If you look at my pictures, you will see that at the end of the anti-theft bolt, is a hex nut. Couldn't a thief just walk up and unlock the nut at the end of the anti-theft bolt? Also, the anti-bolt itself isn't recessed, and if you look carefully, there are groves on it allow for a tool such as a plier to get a better grip while you have a wrench working on the hex nut.


The hex nut is just there to keep the security bolt from backing all the way out when you're installing an add-on rack.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

GDubT said:


> The hex nut is just there to keep the security bolt from backing all the way out when you're installing an add-on rack.


That part I understood because the hext nut isn't flush against the addon rack nor does the instructions mention the next to tightten the hex nut.

What I wish they did was make it flush like it is on the main hitch adapter when it's tighten up. That would've been nice.



racerwad said:


> As for the posters who are worried about the nuts behind the security bolt: do you really think that there are roaming criminals who carry a box wrench for the sole purpose of removing _just _the add-on tray of 1up racks? Doesn't that seem like a really niche crime to be concerned about?


Criminals carry around a big lock cutter....wouldn't surprise me if they have other tools with them then just a cutter in their bag.

Anyways, just order my 3rd add-on.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Criminals carry around a big lock cutter....wouldn't surprise me if they have other tools with them then just a cutter in their bag.
> 
> Anyways, just order my 3rd add-on.


Well, I never question where the never ending supply of 1up add-on racks come from on CL. These must be the guys you're talking about.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

Well I once saw a guy pull a 3ft long bolt cutter out of his pant leg, so I don't think criminals usually carry a tool box around with them...

as far as the security of the add-on, I was thinking of changing out that bolt to a cap headed security bolt.


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

*"Casual" Add-On Theft*



racerwad said:


> As for the posters who are worried about the nuts behind the security bolt: do you really think that there are roaming criminals who carry a box wrench.


"Yeah, well... You're not from Chicago." /Ness

Here is the 1up rack mod I had fab'ed to prevent this casual theft of the Add-on rack and here is my original post detailing same https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=663643


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## HDClown (Feb 21, 2011)

ICONCLS: I asked 1Up about custom fabbing a piece like you them do, and they refused to do it.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Nice job ICONCLS! That's what 1Up ahould've done w/ the two anti-theft bolt.

BTW, anyone uses the black velco strap that comes w/ the 1up rack? It seems to be useless since you have the black knob (forgot what they called it) that you can turn until it presses against the black bar.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

ICONCLS said:


> "Yeah, well... You're not from Chicago." /Ness
> 
> Here is the 1up rack mod I had fab'ed to prevent this casual theft of the Add-on rack


You and others are missing the point: it isn't about _casual _thieves. The ones that will get your junk are the ones that pay attention to how your rack is installed, your habits, patterns, etc, and plan accordingly. If someone wants it, they will get it.

My point is just that it seems like a very low-yield thing to worry about. Kinda like "excess headset wear" or myriad other things people seem to concern themselves with.

Anyhow, it's good to be proactive and protect your stuff.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So I cleaned the rack as it was kinda muddy from the last ride, let it air dry, and no more screeching noises. Figured dirt might have gotten into the mechanism or water. All is good. Didn't lube anything and don't plan on it. :thumbsup:


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

This is a great thread and has convinced me that this is the rack I want to purchase but I haven't found the clearance on the mount anywhere. Can someone measure the clearance between the receiver hitch and the center (or edge) of the first bike tray?

I have created a poor illustration to show what I'm talking about :thumbsup: 

I'm wanting to mount this on a 2011 Jeep Wrangler with a standard 32" spare tire on the rear tailgate if anyone has any experience with it.

Thanks in advance!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Just a comment, the dimension you note is somewhat variable since the rack expansion ball only has to be inserted a min of 1" into the hitch receiver. However, I would think more is better.

J.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

Ok, a question (or a few questions). So far I really like the functionality of the rack but for one issue: the black bar the engages/disengages to change the position of the rack often "sticks"; I have trouble disengaging it. One side will lift but the other won't. Will this get easier or is there something I can do to make it easier? Also, the instructions weren't clear about the black knob (visible in ICONCLS's pics). When I "tightened" it, it seemed to make it even harder for me to disengage the black bar, so I backed off on it, but I'm not sure I understand what it does.


----------



## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Bagwhan said:


> Ok, a question (or a few questions). So far I really like the functionality of the rack but for one issue: the black bar the engages/disengages to change the position of the rack often "sticks"; I have trouble disengaging it. One side will lift but the other won't. Will this get easier or is there something I can do to make it easier? Also, the instructions weren't clear about the black knob (visible in ICONCLS's pics). When I "tightened" it, it seemed to make it even harder for me to disengage the black bar, so I backed off on it, but I'm not sure I understand what it does.


The black bar will get stuck a little because of the weight being apply to it. To make it easier, squeeze it a little and start lifting it up to get the other side out easier.

As for the black knob, the only time you should tighten the black knob so it is pushed against the black bar is when you're transporting bikes. The black knob, when closed, prevents you, anyone, or it accidentally opening up from vibration due to the car moving. It's not necessary, but an added security to prevent the bar from accidentally sliding out.

Summary:
1. If any bike are on AND the car is moving, make sure the black knob is turned all the way so it is pushed against the black bar.
2. All other times, the black knob can be in any positions.

Now, for even security, 1up also included the velctro strap. Slip that on the black bar and the other bar near it and strap it down. BUT, I really don't see any use to the velcro strp. Anyone else use or find any use for the velcro strap?


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Just a comment, the dimension you note is somewhat variable since the rack expansion ball only has to be inserted a min of 1" into the hitch receiver. However, I would think more is better.
> 
> J.


Ah, I see. So, assuming it's pushed in 1", can anyone help a brother out?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The car with the hitch is not home right now, but it looks like about 14" or so - give or take measuring it while hanging up on the wall.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

There's also these on the 1UpUSA website. Might want to talk to them about these extenders and how well they work.

http://www.1upusa.com/hitch_extenderreducers.htm

J.


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

Great, thanks. The jeep only needs about 11-12" so that looks like it will work without an extender.

I saw the extender but I prefer to not use them.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Yep. I wouldn't either.

Probably with 1 add on kit it might still fold straight up against the back of the vehicle too.

BTW, the measurement that I did was to the middle of the tray, not to the edge of the tray. Also you'd have to figure out how the bike fits in there. I'd give 1UpUSA a call and ask them. They'd probably know the answer and have tried it.

J.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

The pictures in the install guide imply that the included velcro strap is for added safety in holding your rack to the hitch.

I've only used it in that manner.


----------



## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yep. I wouldn't either.
> 
> Probably with 1 add on kit it might still fold straight up against the back of the vehicle too.
> 
> ...


Thanks, appreciate it. I'll give them a call today as our email conversation didn't provide any useful information when i asked them.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

irv_usc said:


> The pictures in the install guide imply that the included velcro strap is for added safety in holding your rack to the hitch.
> 
> I've only used it in that manner.


Mine didn't come with velcro straps, must be something new.


----------



## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

racerwad said:


> I would suggest nothing at all. Once, some chain lube dripped on one side and made it nice and quiet. I thought I would lube all the pivots and rails. Fail. The problem is that the lube loosens up the nylock nuts as well which can cause the arms to loosen up. Just keep it clean and you'll be fine. The screech just lets everyone know who has the coolest rack on the block. :thumbsup:
> 
> As for the posters who are worried about the nuts behind the security bolt: do you really think that there are roaming criminals who carry a box wrench for the sole purpose of removing _just _the add-on tray of 1up racks? Doesn't that seem like a really niche crime to be concerned about?


No, but other 1-up users might.  I've been seeing more and more of this rack around the front range of Colorado recently. Word must be spreading. If anyone is going to steal your tray, it's going to be another 1-up user who decides he wants another tray for free. =/ The only hope is that most mountain bikers know how much it sucks to have a bike stolen and most would never steal from our own community, right? Still, it seems trivial to constantly worry about it. If it's going to happen, it will happen. Like most things, they'll get it if they really want it. There's not much you can do about it, so no point in worrying.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

BaeckerX1 said:


> ... so no point in worrying.


Exactly!


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

BaeckerX1 said:


> If anyone is going to steal your tray, it's going to be another 1-up user who decides he wants another tray for free. =/


Who cares about the hex nut then? Such a criminal will have the original allen key in his pocket.

When my bike(s) are off, I often just throw the rack in the back of my van, and I do not keep it hooked up all the time. That was the whole point for getting it vs Kuat or Yakima.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That's entirely doable with this thing. Literally, on and off in a minute.

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

It's official. My rack doesn't like the rain. Returned from a late ride today and it was raining on the way back. And of course, unloading the bikes in the garage, all the mechanisms made that annoying screeching sound once again when you were moving the locking arms. Oh well.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

eurospek said:


> It's official. My rack doesn't like the rain. Returned from a late ride today and it was raining on the way back. And of course, unloading the bikes in the garage, all the mechanisms made that annoying screeching sound once again when you were moving the locking arms. Oh well.


I think silicon spray does not damage the plastic nuts (unlike oils and thinners etc in WD40 and the like). But personally, I would not bother.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

I am going to the store later today to buy a cable and lock for my bike/racks.

*Can anyone give me some idea of what length of cable you found useful for a 2 tray setup?*


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## rixstark (Nov 10, 2009)

I also have one of these racks. I have owned lots of rack in my 20 years of cycling and it is by far the best. I love buying stuff like this. Extremely well thought out and extremely well made. 

I actually have two mounts that I would like to sell. I bought them and have only used them a few times. I have 4 mounts total and only have a need for two. Is there anyone interested in purchasing them? PM me with a reasonable offer for the two, including shipping. I am in Ohio.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

How do we know you're not the guy everyone here is worried about, stealing add-on racks from unsuspecting 1up owners!


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## rixstark (Nov 10, 2009)

I'll include a photocopy of my receipt if you purchase.


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

Buehler?



Bagwhan said:


> I am going to the store later today to buy a cable and lock for my bike/racks.
> 
> *Can anyone give me some idea of what length of cable you found useful for a 2 tray setup?*


Also, any idea of a good place to shop for a cable? Home Depot?


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

I have a 7 ft kryptonite and it barely reaches around two bikes and the rack.

home depot has a beefy 5/8" cable/lock combo by masterlock, but they only carry 6 ft.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Well, the elusive white iPhone did beat the roof rack compatible 1up to the punch. Got the news that "_We have a new extrusion coming for a better design at the end of the month._". Been one year waiting now.

I wonder what JonJ80 did to wrestle the prototypes from them. I tried to no avail.

My wife had been bugging me for a year now why I keep showing her bike in the back of the car, but I am sure if I give up on waiting and get a regular extension they will come out with what I want the next week.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

rixstark said:


> I'll include a photocopy of my receipt if you purchase.


Haha, just giving you a hard time


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## liberatorx (Sep 7, 2010)

*Out with the old in with the new*

Pictures speak louder then words:thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Nice black!!! If I was getting only one rack, I could have stomached the difference but with two rack, silver ftw.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

Skimmed in through all 10 pages here and a couple of other threads. Didn't see an answer for my question, but I bet someone here knows.

I have an Element that has a short tailgate. I was wondering if the tailgate would fully clear a one tray rack that was folded up against the vehicle?

If no one knows, would someone kindly measure from the top of a one tray rack (highest point) to the center of the receiver? Thanks!

It's not a deal killer, but it would be very nice to keep it tucked in all the time AND be able to use the tailgate.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

chuckc1971 said:


> Skimmed in through all 10 pages here and a couple of other threads. Didn't see an answer for my question, but I bet someone here knows.
> 
> I have an Element that has a short tailgate. I was wondering if the tailgate would fully clear a one tray rack that was folded up against the vehicle?
> 
> ...


I will try and measure tomorrow but I just want to make sure I understand you right: you want to know if you can lower your tailgate when the rack is folded up vertically? FWIW, the rack clears the hatch on my Honda Fit when the rack is folded up.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

racerwad said:


> I will try and measure tomorrow but I just want to make sure I understand you right: you want to know if you can lower your tailgate when the rack is folded up vertically? FWIW, the rack clears the hatch on my Honda Fit when the rack is folded up.


Yes, you are correct. I've noticed several others that it appears their trunk lids or hatches will clear. The difference with the Element is that the tailgate folds down. So, the height in the vertical position would be important to know.

Thanks for the help!


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Going to my 1up to the real test this weekend. Hauling 4 ~30# bikes 250 miles to do the Great Allegheny Passage with the Boy Scouts. The rack will then be used on the chase vehicle for 50 miles for the scouts. Some of the Scout's bikes are WalMart super shock types and are HEAVY. I'm thinking I'm going to drop down to 3 trays just to be safe. Right now I'm sure wishing I had an old beater rack as I won't be present to load and unload bikes.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

I received one of these with an expansion (two bikes total) from my significant other for my birthday. The only way I can describe how easy and fast it is to use is my seven year old took his own bike off in about 15 seconds without having ever seen me use the rack.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

Pretty much narrowed it down between the Kuat NV and the 1Up. This is mostly going to carry AM or FR/DH bikes. It's going on a WRX Wagon.

My main concern is with flex. I hear the 1UP moves all over the place. Does anyone have experience with both a Kuat Sherpa or NV that can provide some feedback on which one is more stable? Both seem to be made from aluminum.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

liberatorx said:


> Pictures speak louder then words:thumbsup:


Are those the standard arm lengths they come with? Black looks awesome.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

michaeldorian said:


> Pretty much narrowed it down between the Kuat NV and the 1Up. This is mostly going to carry AM or FR/DH bikes. It's going on a WRX Wagon.
> 
> My main concern is with flex. I hear the 1UP moves all over the place...


Where are you hearing this from? Certainly not from people who own 1up racks. I've used Thule, Saris, and 1up platform style racks and the 1up is hands-down the most secure and stable rack I've used.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

racerwad said:


> Where are you hearing this from? Certainly not from people who own 1up racks. I've used Thule, Saris, and 1up platform style racks and the 1up is hands-down the most secure and stable rack I've used.


I should clarify what I mean by moving around. I mean not in the hitch, but the amout of sway and flex that it inhibits. Both side to side and up and down. Kind of the inherent nature of aluminum. I'm curious in that factor vs the Kuat NV as that does look beefier and more "stable".


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

michaeldorian said:


> I should clarify what I mean by moving around. I mean not in the hitch, but the amout of sway and flex that it inhibits. Both side to side and up and down. Kind of the inherent nature of aluminum. I'm curious in that factor vs the Kuat NV as that does look beefier and more "stable".


Mine doesn't do that. It's rock solid stable and more stable than the steel racks I've used.

J.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

JohnJ80 said:


> Mine doesn't do that. It's rock solid stable and more stable than the steel racks I've used.
> 
> J.


Glad to hear! Placed an order last night. Hope it ships soon!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Let us know how you like it. How many trays?

J.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

JohnJ80 said:


> Let us know how you like it. How many trays?
> 
> J.


Black Ano w/ 2 Trays.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

michaeldorian said:


> I should clarify what I mean by moving around. I mean not in the hitch, but the amout of sway and flex that it inhibits. Both side to side and up and down. Kind of the inherent nature of aluminum. I'm curious in that factor vs the Kuat NV as that does look beefier and more "stable".


I'm sorry, but I missed where you said you heard that from 1up owners? I don't think that anyone has had that complaint. Where did anyone talk about the inherent nature of aluminum lending itself to this kind of swaying? Didn't you mention in an earlier post that both the Kuat and the 1up are both made of aluminum? Wouldn't they both be susceptible to the problem of the flex which characterizes the "inherent nature of aluminum"?

The 1up isn't perfect. I am just wondering why you (or anyone else) would talk about what is a made up situation as if it were real? Where does that get anyone?

Edit: I saw you ordered some. You'll love it. And I know that 1up will honor their guarantee if you don't like it, so be critical-look at it closely. If it performs like you're afraid it will, send it back and report back here.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

racerwad said:


> I'm sorry, but I missed where you said you heard that from 1up owners? I don't think that anyone has had that complaint. Where did anyone talk about the inherent nature of aluminum lending itself to this kind of swaying? Didn't you mention in an earlier post that both the Kuat and the 1up are both made of aluminum? Wouldn't they both be susceptible to the problem of the flex which characterizes the "inherent nature of aluminum"?
> 
> The 1up isn't perfect. I am just wondering why you (or anyone else) would talk about what is a made up situation as if it were real? Where does that get anyone?
> 
> Edit: I saw you ordered some. You'll love it. And I know that 1up will honor their guarantee if you don't like it, so be critical-look at it closely. If it performs like you're afraid it will, send it back and report back here.


It has been mentioned in this thread. There's about a page of conversation about it. http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7928793&postcount=411

Other threads on MTBR have also mentioned it. There was a discussion specific about aluminum being 10x more flexible then steel.

I've also read every review I can find via Google and notice similar remarks. Regardless, I trust the reviews here and I'm sure I won't be disappointed. I saw a picture of the Kuat NV on an Audi A4 sedan and it just looked enormous. That right there was the decision maker. Add to the fact that 70% of the time I'll be alone with 1 bike, there really isn't anything other system that compares.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I think the discussion on that particular post centered around the paranoia that many of us feel by just having a bike on the back of the car.

If you look at the 1UpUSA rack and see the width of the bracket that attaches to the trays and the solid bar of Aluminum that comes out of the hitch, I think you'll get an appreciation for the rigidity of the rack. Compare that width to many other racks which have only the single cross member coming out of the hitch and no additional bracing. There is pretty much no - as in zero - wobble (rotation/twisting) along the horizontal axis. If you have two bikes on the rack, the same pretty much applies for the up and down (vertical axis). I often have 4 bikes on mine for long trips from MN to CO and there is some up and down movement that way but nothing that I would consider any different and, in fact, probably less than I have seen on other steel racks I've had. 

In point of fact, (I've mentioned this before), I hit a huge bump a year ago on I76 in a construction zone on the outskirts of Denver. I was going about 80mph, had missed the speed limit change so I was going way too fast. The car was a heavy Volvo XC90 crossover that I would not have been surprised if we had gone a bit airborne - in other words, a really big hit on this bump that I was fortunate did not do damage to the car or people in it. The rack had 4 mountain bikes on the back, each about 30-32lbs or so. The only thing that happened was that one of the tires got a little off one of the trays but it was retained by the rack. If the rack had gone up or down as much as I think you might be picturing it, it would have hit the pavement. That did not happen. Bear in mind, this was a massive hit, displaced stuff all through the car, everyone's seat belts locked tight as in a crash etc... Big deal. Bikes were no issue. 

That was also with 4 heavy bikes. If you would have less on it (say 2) it will be locked on rock solid.

You do, with any bike that holds the bikes by the tires, get some bouncing from the tires. If you had a metal to metal contact, then it would be a different thing. But that's one of the things we are all trying to avoid in the first place - no contact with the frame of the bike.

Don't worry about the stability of this rack. You get this on the car and you'll see. It's locked on and very stable.

J.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> I think the discussion on that particular post centered around the paranoia that many of us feel by just having a bike on the back of the car.
> 
> If you look at the 1UpUSA rack and see the width of the bracket that attaches to the trays and the solid bar of Aluminum that comes out of the hitch, I think you'll get an appreciation for the rigidity of the rack. Compare that width to many other racks which have only the single cross member coming out of the hitch and no additional bracing. There is pretty much no - as in zero - wobble (rotation/twisting) along the horizontal axis. If you have two bikes on the rack, the same pretty much applies for the up and down (vertical axis). I often have 4 bikes on mine for long trips from MN to CO and there is some up and down movement that way but nothing that I would consider any different and, in fact, probably less than I have seen on other steel racks I've had.
> 
> ...


I agree with John, with 2 bikes attached the rack will be solid, you'll start noticing minimal sway with 3 bikes and at 4 expect to have butterflies in your stomach. I did have the opportunity to follow my wife home with 4 bikes attached to the rack, of course it was the one time she drove aggressively so I spent more time chasing her than observing the rack motion. But from what I did see the vertical motion wasn't nearly as bad at it appears in the rear view. My 4 bike setup will be put to a hard test this weekend, many of the bikes are very low end mountain type bikes, read extremely heavy, so the rack will be punished far more than it is when it's loaded with our <30# bikes.

As for the Al my understanding is that as long as it is heat treated properly after machining / cold working it is as strong as or stronger than steel. The downside is that Al unlike steel does have a fatigue limit, i.e. it will fail after a finite time. If properly designed the rack will not reach the fatigue limit in our lives. (Al is not my strong point so take the preceding as hearsay. I do some work with steel and the above information given to me from the heat treater I use)


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## Bagwhan (Aug 25, 2005)

edthesped said:


> But from what I did see the vertical motion wasn't nearly as bad at it appears in the rear view.


That's the real issue, the "bouncing" looks terrible in the rear view, but that view is an illusion.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

michaeldorian said:


> It has been mentioned in this thread. There's about a page of conversation about it. http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7928793&postcount=411
> 
> Other threads on MTBR have also mentioned it. There was a discussion specific about aluminum being 10x more flexible then steel.
> 
> I've also read every review I can find via Google and notice similar remarks. Regardless, I trust the reviews here and I'm sure I won't be disappointed. I saw a picture of the Kuat NV on an Audi A4 sedan and it just looked enormous. That right there was the decision maker. Add to the fact that 70% of the time I'll be alone with 1 bike, there really isn't anything other system that compares.


One post is not a "page" of discussion. Also, consider the source: the poster has a hitch so crappy that they require a strap to be used to distribute the load. :skep: You're using his _first_ use of the rack as a legitimate data point?

My point is, why bother repeating information that you don't know to be true? All of the discussion about the rack's movement has been by people who _do not yet have the rack_. BTW, I feel the same way about people who talk about bike junk that they've only read about. It's pointless and distracting.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> I think the discussion on that particular post centered around the paranoia that many of us feel by just having a bike on the back of the car.


This x 100

That was my first time out with a hitch rack, so it was all new to me, babied it on the highway at 55 mph, looking in the rearview mirror every so often if I still haven't lost the bikes going over potholes.

Now I'm back to my normal driving habits (







) with 2 bikes in the back without a care in the world, red cargo strap is gone, and I still believe this rack is a wonderful $500 investment for many years to come. I would buy it over and over again. Loading the bikes is super easy, and taking the rack on and off is even easier.



racerwad said:


> the poster has a hitch so crappy that they require a strap to be used to distribute the load. :skep:












Far from it. I wouldn't consider a Curt hitch to be crappy. I tend to be paronoid, especially with $4,000+ worth of bikes dangling in the back.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

eurospek said:


> Far from it. I wouldn't consider a Curt hitch to be crappy. I tend to be paronoid, especially with $4,000+ worth of bikes dangling in the back.


The consensus I read when doing my research was that Curt was not as good as the competition. This is in the context of my car, though. The Curt hitch used half as many bolts at the frame rails and used the pan below the cargo area as a third mounting point. Seemed pretty weak.

Besides, you said yourself that the strap was


eurospek said:


> ...more so for the hitch than the rack itself.


 Not really a vote of confidence. In addition, none of the paperwork that came with my hitch said


Curt said:


> Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.


I apologize if my post came across as an attack. I was making a point that capitalized on your posts.


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## 59Bassman (Aug 2, 2010)

Mine should be here today (hopefully). Birthday present from the wife, as my mountain bike is scratching up the interior of my FJ from loading/unloading. I almost went with the Thule 916, but decided in the end that for my needs, the 1up was probably a better fit.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Maybe all of you guys that are nervous about 1 and 2 bike setups should spend a day driving with a 4 bike setup. After a couple of 4 bike trips the rack will appear rock solid in a 2 tray configuration. At this point a 3 bike setup doesn't even make me uneasy. I'm still adjusting to the 4 bike configuration though. I'm hoping after toting 4 bikes 400 miles and using the rack on the recovery vehicle for 40 scouts this weekend will end the butterflies.

I'll follow up when I get back on Monday.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

> Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.


I think my Hidden Hitch had a paper that says that too! Let me see if it's still around the house and I will scan it in. I think I threw away the paper after installation.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> The consensus I read when doing my research was that Curt was not as good as the competition. This is in the context of my car, though. The Curt hitch used half as many bolts at the frame rails and used the pan below the cargo area as a third mounting point. Seemed pretty weak.


What kind of car do you have?

When I was buying and researching all the hitches were the same for the Subaru WRX wagon, all used 4 mounting bolts to the frame and the Curt has the most clearance for upgraded exhausts so there's plenty of room for a bigger catback exhaust, all while retaining regular muffler hangers.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> I think my Hidden Hitch had a paper that says that too! Let me see if it's still around the house and I will scan it in. I think I threw away the paper after installation.


Just double checked the etrailer.com site, only the Curt hitches have this sort of warnings, at least for Honda Fits and Subaru Impreza's. The installation .pdfs for all the hitches they sell are online.



eurospek said:


> What kind of car do you have?
> 
> When I was buying and researching all the hitches were the same for the Subaru WRX wagon, all used 4 mounting bolts to the frame and the Curt has the most clearance for upgraded exhausts so there's plenty of room for a bigger catback exhaust, all while retaining regular muffler hangers.


I understand the need to accommodate aftermarket exhausts. FWIW I have a 09 Honda Fit.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

For my car at least, looking at the quality of the other manufacturer's hitches... Curt has that warning because they are probably the only ones that do any real engineering in the design.

Whatever safety factors are designed into a hitch (Class 1 anyway) are definitely being used up when 3+ bikes are put out on a long lever arm and subjected to shocks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, no not so much. the tongue weight is also on a long lever arm as well.

J.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Anyone with 3+ bikes have any tips on lowering and raising the bike rack w/out breaking a back?

W/ 3 bikes on, I have to stretch to reach the black bar to tilt the rack up or down. I tried putting my legs in between the rack, press on the black bar and then lift the rack up an d that seems to be more work because you have to make sure the rack doesn't tilt you over. It's not easy holding onto about 55lbs(25+15+15) on just one side of your body while bending over to sqeeze the black bar in.

I plan on adding a 3rd add-on for 4 bikes total, and once I do that, I need to find an easier way to lower/raise the rack while squeezing the black bar.


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

The 1up is a nice piece of engineering. Here it is on a Jeep Wranger JK. It's about 3-4" short for the pedals to clear the tire but by securing the bike off center, I can slip a pedal inside a wheel slot and lock it down. Very stable and I like how the bike hugs the tire close. Nice and compact... well, as compact as an XXL Stumpjumper 29er can get 

I like it.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

What's the white stuff near the top of the wheel arms?


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

You mean these?

They are like a thick rubber band to keep the arms from scratching the base plate when folded up.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Exactly that. Thanks!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That came out to be a perfect fit with the tire. I like the black ano too. Looks great on your Jeep.

J.


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## wsettle (Apr 24, 2011)

It dd fit just right. That black looks like it's part of the jeep and turned out better than I hoped. I see why everyone is so enamored with this rack. It's nothing short of sweet!


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

eurospek said:


> What's the white stuff near the top of the wheel arms?


No idea. To supress the sound over bumps? It was added just recently because my rack+add-on that came in about 2-3 weeks ago didn't have it and my most recent add-on that came in last week had it.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Hey I just ordered a black ano with 2 black add-ons. I just noticed the website no longer shows a backorder on the black ones. That's even better now I don't need to wait that 30 day backorder!!


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## dwal (Apr 16, 2011)

*Check your email*



rixstark said:


> I also have one of these racks. I have owned lots of rack in my 20 years of cycling and it is by far the best. I love buying stuff like this. Extremely well thought out and extremely well made.
> 
> I actually have two mounts that I would like to sell. I bought them and have only used them a few times. I have 4 mounts total and only have a need for two. Is there anyone interested in purchasing them? PM me with a reasonable offer for the two, including shipping. I am in Ohio.


Assuming you are talking about the extenders? If so let's try to work something out ....


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

The rack loaded with four bikes survived 200 miles of the Western PA Turnpike without a hitch (pun intended). Anyone that has ever driven the PA Turnpike knows that at times it's doesn't seem much better than a dirt road. There were a few times I would have bet the rack was going to hit the concrete. The vertical motion, as seen through the rear view mirror, is still quite disconcerting but I am learning not to look back while driving.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

edthesped: How do you fold up all four rack after you remove all the bikes? I usually fold up my rack so no crazy drive will run into it or some kids start jumping it.

Lastly, anyone find that they need to tighten the anti-theft bolt about once a day? By the end of the day, I can still turn the bolt about another 180 degree. Maybe I'm overtightening it because I'm putting as much weight as I can while pushing downward too.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> edthesped: How do you fold up all four rack after you remove all the bikes? I usually fold up my rack so no crazy drive will run into it or some kids start jumping it.
> 
> Lastly, anyone find that they need to tighten the anti-theft bolt about once a day? By the end of the day, I can still turn the bolt about another 180 degree. Maybe I'm overtightening it because I'm putting as much weight as I can while pushing downward too.


Folding it is a Royal PITA...

I squeeze the locking bar and push it up vertical, the more I do it the easier it gets. This past weekend I left the car about 1/4 mile from the campground, I disassembled the rack and threw it in the back of the van.

There is no way I would ever attempt lowering it with all four bikes on. I'd remove the bikes to open the hatch before I'd try to lower and raise the bikes.

As far as the anti-theft bolt is concerned, I was wondering the same thing... Mine loosens every time I haul bikes. I could carry the bikes 4 miles and be able to get a 1/4 turn out of the anti theft bolt. I've been wondering if it is the rack or the hitch.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

edthesped said:


> As far as the anti-theft bolt is concerned, I was wondering the same thing... Mine loosens every time I haul bikes. I could carry the bikes 4 miles and be able to get a 1/4 turn out of the anti theft bolt. I've been wondering if it is the rack or the hitch.


That's what concerned me, not so much as the bikes bouncing around a little while driving on the freeway/road. I was thinking of buying something like cargo straps and strap the hitch receiver and bike rack in case the anti-theft bolt gets a little too loose. If it goes loose and because there is no anti-wobble pin, the straps will be holding the rack in vs the rack+bikes goes flying into the road and killing/injurying the person(s) behind my car.

I always double check and tighten the bolt before I load up the bikes.

Just thought of something: I think all that bouncing around on the bike is causing the ball to get press against the hitch receiver on and off. Imagine for a sec...the ball gets pushed against the hitch receiver w/ a great amount of force because the rack bounces. This cause the ball to get depress. Now, once the rack bounces the opposite directions, the ball is no longer pushing against the hitch receiver. It's now a little loose for a split second or so. Repeat this bouncing effect over and over and the ball will loosen up. Because the ball is depress a little more then before, it bounches even more excerting more pressure onto the ball, thereby, forcing the ball down more. The only think I can see to prevent the ball from getting depress is the anti-theft bolt and assuming it will NOT allow the ball to get depress a little each time the ball has a large amount of force pressed against the ball.

Hopefully, this makes sense.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You need to make sure the inside of your hitch is clean. What I do is put the rack on, drive for a few miles (or first gas stop) and tighten it again. Then it stays tight. When I do that, mine actually seems to tighten on a long trip (say 1000 miles or so). It's very tight when I try and take it off - using that system it doesn't loosen. We use our rack *all* the time and have taken it on three 2500 mile road trips and have had no issues with it loosening.

That said, anything you put in place will probably want to loosen in the first bit as everything seats (normal with any rack, hitch or roof). After a bit you should check it and re-tighten. If it continues to loosen, I'd call 1UpUSA after first making sure that (a) you had the rack ball back at least 1-1.5" into the receiver, that (b) the inside of the hitch is clean and free of any rust or dirt or other debris and (c) you tighten it as I explained.

Any rack that has 4 bikes out on a lever arm is going to appear to bounce. What I'd recommend you do is load up your rack and have someone drive it around wile you follow and watch in a different car. There is not much bounce. All the hitch racks of this type and similar styles all have some up and down with them. It's a long lever. Besides that, you're in the front and coming down from the bump as the rack is going up over the bump. 

J.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

As I mentioned on a previous post, my rack came with a velcro strap as an added measure of security. I tighten the rack to the hitch, then add the velcro strap to hold the main crossbar of the strap to one of the chain holes on the hitch.

That said, my rack hasn't loosened up on me at all.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I agree with JohnJ80. I drive ~130mi/day, 6-7 days a week with a 37lb bike on and my rack never loosens up. I did check it frequently when I first got the rack and never noticed any loosening. 

Do what John suggests. And maybe have someone else try and tighten it.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

With one or two bikes the ball lock stays solid. 90% of the time that I use my rack I'm hauling 4 bikes. When the rain stops here in Pgh, I'm starting to think that may be never, I'll meet the wife and kids for a bike ride. I'll make sure to bring a video camera and will have my kid take a video of the bikes during the ride home and throw it up on youtube. That should answer many of the questions people have about the rack. The view is much more frightening from the rear view mirror than it is from another vehicle.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

irv_usc said:


> As I mentioned on a previous post, my rack came with a velcro strap as an added measure of security. I tighten the rack to the hitch, then add the velcro strap to hold the main crossbar of the strap to one of the chain holes on the hitch.
> 
> That said, my rack hasn't loosened up on me at all.


And you really think that velcro strap will hold the rack in case it ever came loose? I don't think so.

For added security and having a point to lock my security cables, I have a small U-lock going into the hitch and then grabbing onto the main crossbar. Not only are the bikes secure this way, but the U-lock will prevent the rack from sliding out less than an inch or so from the receiver. :thumbsup:


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

it's just a small measure of added security. if the bolt came slightly loose the hitch wouldn't just all of a sudden fly off the car, it would likely back itself out a bit at a time. the velcro strap is better than nothing.

i like your idea of a lock though. but as the two posters above said, i haven't had any issues with the mount coming loose at all.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Nor am I worried about theft. The U lock method is pretty slick though.

j.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Hey All,

I noticed that a lot of you received your orders quite fast. For the owners of the 1up black ano, how long did it take you to receive yours? I know the black ones were on backorder a while ago but I was under the impression that it is not anymore since they took that message off the 1up website. I placed an order 5 days ago and still haven't received a tracking #. Maybe Im being too anxious. Just wondering....


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

aldeezy said:


> I placed an order 5 days ago and still haven't received a tracking #. Maybe Im being too anxious. Just wondering....


Mine took about 3-4 days before it shipped and took UPS 7 days to deliver. Slow for UPS. I think 1Up is low on inventory or something. Some people get their product ship out the same day. Others, like you and I, get our ship a few days later after placing the order.

My 2nd order for the 2nd add-on(so I can carry 3 bikes total) didn't ship the same day it was order also, but was a day or two faster then my initial order.

BTW, mine is the silver for all three.


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

Thanks for the reply Jimmy. Perhaps they are low on inventory. I'll wait a day or two more If I don't get an email informing me it has been shipped. I can understand they are a smaller outfit by reading all the past posts. If the product is as good as it is, it'll be worth the wait!


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## tamjam (Jan 23, 2004)

Anyone have any idea what changes have taken place over the years with the design of this rack? As I do with most "big" purchases, I check ebay to see if there are any better deals around, and found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120723509999&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I contacted the seller, and was told "Our racks are quite a few years older and are the original design from 1UP." They couldn't quantify the changes. Have they changed arm length? Security? Weight?


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## honglee (Jun 3, 2011)

pimpbot said:


> Looks pretty slick. I like the fact that is is super low profile, and does not block the taillights or license place when unloaded. I got popped for obstructed license plate a couple years ago with my Performance X-Port rack.


how much?what size?


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

tamjam said:


> Anyone have any idea what changes have taken place over the years with the design of this rack? As I do with most "big" purchases, I check ebay to see if there are any better deals around, and found this:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120723509999&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> I contacted the seller, and was told "Our racks are quite a few years older and are the original design from 1UP." They couldn't quantify the changes. Have they changed arm length? Security? Weight?


the rack in that link looks totally different from the current 1up design. what are the arms made of? the section where the rack mounts into the trailer hitch is very narrow and bolted together?


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## tamjam (Jan 23, 2004)

irv_usc said:


> the rack in that link looks totally different from the current 1up design. what are the arms made of? the section where the rack mounts into the trailer hitch is very narrow and bolted together?


The more I looked at these, the more I realized they didn't pass the "smell test". The seller claimed they were "the original 1up design" but couldn't answer any questions beyond that. The auctions showed 5 available for the 2" and 4 available for the 1 1/4" one day, as well as a roof-mounted version, and they were all gone the next day. Really? Maybe some people on this tread saw the ebay link I posted and bought all of their supply, but a sudden run on overstock 1up racks? Doubtful. They also had an auction going for a 2-bike rack that looked nearly identical to the single bike 1up listing but was branded "Overland II" which a google search said was a "Jeep" brand. Plus the ultra-low $129 price. It all just smelled too fishy. Sometimes deals are too good to be true. I have a feeling this was one of them.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

tamjam said:


> The more I looked at these, the more I realized they didn't pass the "smell test". The seller claimed they were "the original 1up design" but couldn't answer any questions beyond that. The auctions showed 5 available for the 2" and 4 available for the 1 1/4" one day, as well as a roof-mounted version, and they were all gone the next day. Really? Maybe some people on this tread saw the ebay link I posted and bought all of their supply, but a sudden run on overstock 1up racks? Doubtful. They also had an auction going for a 2-bike rack that looked nearly identical to the single bike 1up listing but was branded "Overland II" which a google search said was a "Jeep" brand. Plus the ultra-low $129 price. It all just smelled too fishy. Sometimes deals are too good to be true. I have a feeling this was one of them.


I would not be surprised if they made an OEM run for Jeep - but that is obviously not a recent design. It would likely work fine for a single bike.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I would be surprised if they did do something for Jeep. It's a really small company.

j.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> I would be surprised if they did do something for Jeep. It's a really small company.
> 
> j.


It looks exactly the same, as far as the holding mechanism. License? I wonder what it has for the hitch mechanism. And $209 for two bike rack. Dang.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

How can you tell? The picture at the link doesn't show the part that fits into the receiver.

Could be a really old one - the seller is "bikesurplus." Maybe it's some guy that buys old bike shot inventory and resells it.

J.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> How can you tell? The picture at the link doesn't show the part that fits into the receiver.
> 
> Could be a really old one - the seller is "bikesurplus." Maybe it's some guy that buys old bike shot inventory and resells it.
> 
> J.


I saw them on bikemania.biz - link. I have no idea what is the receiver construction, that is why I said "I wonder". Close up pictures of the rack itself that I found indicate that it is a pretty much identical holding mechanism for bikes. One review I found indicates that it is easy to instal and has "no wobble". Descriptions says "Installs & removes in seconds without tools. Folds down to 25" x 12" x 12"". 
Just curious. But at that price I can get a second two bike rack and keep the current single tray for the second car.

I never got my roof compatible version that you got. It is delayed again. They had explicitly promised it last July - when I was making the first order. I am about to give up and just get a second foldable tray - or this Jeep one.


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## tamjam (Jan 23, 2004)

Axe said:


> I saw them on bikemania.biz - link.


Yeah everything about that "Jeep" one looks identical to the 1up. Has to be a knock-off at that price. At $209 it's almost worth taking a shot on.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

Soo... weird but the other day someone followed me home to ask me about my 1up. A little unnerving...


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

I get fellow riders in the parking lot waiting for me to show them how it works. It's all good and means you've made a good decision if not a tasteful one.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

I gave up waiting on roof compatible version, ordered a regular add-on. Would not be annoying if not for many promises over more then a year. Grrr. 
Theoretically, I would eventually need a third tray, but not sure. Maybe will just buy some Yakima roof rack.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

So if I were considering just a 1 bike rack, that is a trailer hitch mount, it seems this 1up and maybe the Raxter are two viable options. I like the $177 price tag of the Raxter over the $350 (black model) price tag of the 1up, is the 1up that much more better to pay that more?

I like the simplicity of the 1up and the Raxter Stinger, in black. So those are what I'm narrowing my choices down to. This 1up seems to be a great option, but a little on the expensive side, where the Raxter is in my price range, but might not have the same benefits that the 1up has.

I guess I tend to like the type like the 1up and Raxter Stinger because they are unobtrusive to the back of my SUV door. I don't have to remove it to get into the back etc. I'm not against the other types there the bikes hang higher but this type where they sit in a cradle and stand upright are very nice. So for me the extra money for that type might be worth it.

I can't seem to find any good used or new prices on the other hitch racks where the bike hangs, so I'm seriously considering something like the two previously mentioned.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

I have got an add on tray. Apparently they have almost double thickness of the frame - old bolts are way too short now. Fortunately it came with a pair of longer bolts that I was able to use - same thread size. Now the old frame look flimsy in comparison. 

Arm attachment and tray extrusions were also beefed up. Arms are significantly longer.

Apparently, they are about to have a model with two trays for the base - and only 2" hitch compatibility. No trace of the roof rack compatible one, as was shown in this thread, that they have promised more then a year ago.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

ChrisMc73 said:


> So if I were considering just a 1 bike rack, that is a trailer hitch mount, it seems this 1up and maybe the Raxter are two viable options. I like the $177 price tag of the Raxter over the $350 (black model) price tag of the 1up, is the 1up that much more better to pay that more?
> 
> I like the simplicity of the 1up and the Raxter Stinger, in black. So those are what I'm narrowing my choices down to. This 1up seems to be a great option, but a little on the expensive side, where the Raxter is in my price range, but might not have the same benefits that the 1up has.
> 
> ...


I don't know about Raxter but the 1up is made in the USA and that adds to the production cost, (as one who works at a fab shop and watching large amounts of our core work being lost to China I gladly pay extra for American made but I digress). Also the 1up is made of extruded and machined Aluminum. I believe any welding or cold working of Al will require a stress relief step which also adds to the fabrication cost, for applications like this stress relieving of steel would not be required. What you gain by going Al vs steel is the comfort in knowing that your rack will never rust regardless of how much you may scratch the surface. A stainless rack would be cool but would also be much more expensive than a carbon steel rack and would also be heavier (_than an Aluminum rack_). The aesthetics of the 1up are quite nice as well, doesn't mean much to me as I haul my bikes on a beat up old van and if I'm only taking one or two bikes I fold the seats down and throw them in the back of the van. If I were to buy another rack tomorrow the 1up would be at the top of my list and the Kuat would be the only other rack on the list.

_edited_


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

Which of the Kuat would compare to the 1 bike 1up? All I have a need for is 1 maybe 2 bikes to haul.


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## kburati (Mar 9, 2008)

The prices seem to have gone way up. I got 4 of the trays, badged as U-haul saferack trays, back in 2003 for $90/tray. Good news is that these have held up wonderfully over the 9 years I've used them and I've mounted them on Yakima racks as well as steel piping from Home Depot. They also adjust to fit kids 20" wheel bikes and can handle a 3" wide DH tire (not that anyone uses those anymore). Mine look like this:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2059451


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

ChrisMc73 said:


> Which of the Kuat would compare to the 1 bike 1up? All I have a need for is 1 maybe 2 bikes to haul.


I haven't looked too hard because I'm quite pleased with what I have but I would think it to be the NV. What puts the 1up at the top of my list is the fact that it's all metal and I really like the clamping mechanism. The NV has a lot of plastic on it and for me that's a negative.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

If you know you would only need one or two trays ever, the Raxter racks can be bought in that configuration. They are similar in their holding mechanism (in fact, I think there was some patent licensing 1UpUSA->Raxter on that one). 

The 1UpUSA rack in a two pack is pretty doggone nice. 

J.


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## skoor (Jun 9, 2009)

Axe said:


> .. Apparently they have almost double thickness of the frame - old bolts are way too short now. ... .


Any chance you might include a picture of the new frame? Love to see it. Thanks


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## heppcat (Sep 21, 2010)

ChrisMc73 said:


> I can't seem to find any good used or new prices on the other hitch racks where the bike hangs, so I'm seriously considering something like the two previously mentioned.


I just got the 1up about a month ago. Ordered one tray and after the first use went straight to my computer to order a second tray. After using the tray style I'll never go back to playing bike tetris with a hanging style rack.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

heppcat said:


> I just got the 1up about a month ago. Ordered one tray and after the first use went straight to my computer to order a second tray. After using the tray style I'll never go back to playing bike tetris with a hanging style rack.


Yeah thats a very attractive feature to me as well. Quick and easy to mount up and go.
I'm sold on it, just have to budget for it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

heppcat said:


> I just got the 1up about a month ago. Ordered one tray and after the first use went straight to my computer to order a second tray. After using the tray style I'll never go back to *playing bike tetris with a hanging style rack*.


LOL - great description!

We're in the middle of our annual western trip - turns into a 2500 mile round trip road trip with the 1UpUSA and 4 bikes. Our rack is pushing 8000 miles of cross country travel and it has been great.

This year we took our cross bikes - looking to do more long distance riding instead of MTB riding. Worked great again. It's a great rack. We have the basic rack and 3 add on kits. We only add what we need for any particular use - a huge feature compared to all other racks.

J.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

*Mine's crooked now*

Have any of you guys had an issue with your rack sitting crooked. I'm already in contact with 1up, but I'm just curious if anyone has had this problem. I've had the rack since last August, but never noticed this til about a month ago.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

rhynohead said:


> Have any of you guys had an issue with your rack sitting crooked. I'm already in contact with 1up, but I'm just curious if anyone has had this problem. I've had the rack since last August, but never noticed this til about a month ago.


Try getting a level a checking your hitch. Like insert a straight pipe in there and check how level it it. The rack itself does not look bent in the picture, but it is obviously hard to tell.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

I'd hope the hitch on a nice Acura MDX would be level, but you never know and is hard to tell from this one photo.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Axe said:


> Try getting a level a checking your hitch. Like insert a straight pipe in there and check how level it it. The rack itself does not look bent in the picture, but it is obviously hard to tell.


Yeah, it's kinda hard to tell from the one photo, but I sent a couple other pics to 1up and they said it needed a part to be replaced on the hitch. So, it's going back to 1up as soon as I receive my shipping label. Quick CS on their part. :thumbsup: Hopefully turn around is just as fast.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

What do you mean by sitting crooked? Do you mean the slight backwards angle on the bikes? If so, mine has done that since the day I got it - 8000+ miles with the rack on.

J.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> What do you mean by sitting crooked? Do you mean the slight backwards angle on the bikes? If so, mine has done that since the day I got it - 8000+ miles with the rack on.
> 
> J.


Crooked=slanted. If you look at the rest of the pics on this forum and compare the way the bikes sit, you'll see an obvious difference. When I first got my rack, it sat leveled. Not sure what happened to cause this, but 1up is on top of it. I'll post another pic once I get it back from 1up just for comparative reasons.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Hmm. Mine has done that since Day 1. Why is that a problem? Is your hitch straight?


J.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

I just pushed the button and joined the ranks of you 1up owners! If you don't hear from me in a while its because my CFO (the wife) has killed me for this purchase. Even though 1/2 of it was paid from selling 3 old Dell LCD monitors in my closet collecting dust, Gazelle is a great place for that. 

I'm super excited can't wait for it to get here! No more removing baby seats and pushing seats down and working the bike in the back of the SUV!!! 

The guy who posted the YouTube video on his rack sold me, it looked awesomely built, and easy to install, DONE!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

ChrisMc73 said:


> I just pushed the button and joined the ranks of you 1up owners! If you don't hear from me in a while its because my CFO (the wife) has killed me for this purchase. Even though 1/2 of it was paid from selling 3 old Dell LCD monitors in my closet collecting dust, Gazelle is a great place for that.
> 
> I'm super excited can't wait for it to get here! No more removing baby seats and pushing seats down and working the bike in the back of the SUV!!!
> 
> The guy who posted the YouTube video on his rack sold me, it looked awesomely built, and easy to install, DONE!


Let us know how you like it. It's a really nice rack.

J.


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## mgreene (Jul 7, 2010)

Has anyone here seen/tried the new 2" only/2 bike version?


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

I see some of you have the four bike setup anyone talk to 1up about how they've removed the four bike option and now only offer three?

I was ready to order until I saw this and called them. I said I needed to carry four 40lb bikes on dirt road shuttles but NOT OFF ROAD and they told me they didn't offer a product that would meet my needs. I assume this is because the only hitch option they offer is 1.25 inch that adapts up to 2 inch. Pretty weak engineering there IMO.

So what happens to the people who already have the under-engineered four bike option?

I understand a 2 inch option is in the works though so maybe next year?

Till then looks like North Shore has it all over these guys.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

What is North Shore?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

ChrisMc73 said:


> What is North Shore?


Here.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

beaterdit said:


> I see some of you have the four bike setup anyone talk to 1up about how they've removed the four bike option and now only offer three?
> 
> I was ready to order until I saw this and called them. I said I needed to carry four 40lb bikes on dirt road shuttles but NOT OFF ROAD and they told me they didn't offer a product that would meet my needs. I assume this is because the only hitch option they offer is 1.25 inch that adapts up to 2 inch. Pretty weak engineering there IMO.
> 
> ...


No, not true. The reason is the hitch capacity and not the rack capacity. They can't offer a 1.25" rack and claim that it meets a 2" spec and have some knucklehead use it with 4 heavy bikes, have the receiver drop it, and then sue them saying it should have worked.

I have the 1.25" version that fits in a 2" hitch, we've run it over 8000 miles at high speed and hit massive bumps that should have probably damaged the car. No problems. We are, however, using it in a 2" hitch receiver.

The unique problem with a module rack is that you can add more capacity than the receiver or rack can hold. There is nothing that would prevent me from adding 5 bikes on the back with an additional bike kit.

North shore is great until you want to carry road or cross bikes. They specifically say it's only for mountain bikes. If you overload the North Shore rack over the receiver's capacity, you'll have the same issue if the receiver has a problem. Also, on a 1.25" hitch, they can only take 2 bikes vs 1UpUSAs 3 - presuming you don't overload the capacity of the hitch.

Driving your car with a hitch rack over rough terrain on a 1.25" hitch, I'd suggest a fair amount of caution anyhow. Shock loading on the receiver is potentially going to be a problem with almost any load you carry. 1.25" hitches have a tongue weight spec of <200lbs. Add the lever arm of any rack and a sudden drop with a sudden stop, and you can get to that point very quickly.

Have you asked North Shore if they warranty and recommend their product for use off road? I'd be very surprised if they did. "Off Road" covers a lot of territory in terms of use. They'd be fools to warranty their product under those conditions - anyone would.

J.


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

I don't know what the warranty specifies I'll have to look into it. I do know a lot of people who put the North Shore to severe use with no problems. I have a 2" factory hitch on my Tundra rated at 500lbs unequalized tongue weight so that shouldn't be the weak link.

I currently run the Thule T2+2 and haven't had issues but I'm spooked by reports and pictures of failure.

North Shore offers a six bike bike version that they endorse for downhill bikes, maximum load 300lbs. That's a lot of confidence in their product. I'm not concerned with carrying road or cross bikes.

edit: crap that one requires a class IV/V hitch, I think mine's a class III.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Of course, any manufacturer is going to rate their product conservatively especially on a bike rack. If it fails, people could literally die. The same is true for 1UpUSA, North Shore or any manufacturer.

Even with a high tongue capacity, a fully loaded rack shock loaded is going to be put to the test in a big way. It's quite easy to get pretty severe G-loads when you drop (especially vertically). If you had bikes that weighed say 40lbs a piece x 6 or 240 lbs, a rack that weighs 50 lbs for a 290 lbs, or 300 lbs to use round numbers. If you get a 1 G shock load that would effectively double the weight instantaneously to 600lbs (somewhat mitigated by suspension assuming it doesn't bottom out) and maybe cause problems with either rack and maybe your receiver - at least at that point, you'd be beyond the receiver's spec.

Another way of looking at it is to take a 134kg load (i.e. that 300lbs) and drop it 0.2m (~8"). That will generate an average force impact of 1969 newtons or roughly 18-19,000lbs of force. Of course, some (much of this)of this is mitigated by vehicle suspension, very careful driving etc... but you get an idea of how difficult a problem this can be for a rack or receiver manufacturer. I guess, I'd not recommend using any rack off road and expecting it to be without problems.

You can play with the numbers here:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/flobi.html

J.


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## oil (May 23, 2011)

Just got an email from 1up.. roof tray version is available now.

1upusa.com/rooftray.htm


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cool. And to think I have the very first one..... 

J.


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> Of course, any manufacturer is going to rate their product conservatively especially on a bike rack. If it fails, people could literally die. The same is true for 1UpUSA, North Shore or any manufacturer.
> 
> Even with a high tongue capacity, a fully loaded rack shock loaded is going to be put to the test in a big way. It's quite easy to get pretty severe G-loads when you drop (especially vertically). If you had bikes that weighed say 40lbs a piece x 6 or 240 lbs, a rack that weighs 50 lbs for a 290 lbs, or 300 lbs to use round numbers. If you get a 1 G shock load that would effectively double the weight instantaneously to 600lbs (somewhat mitigated by suspension assuming it doesn't bottom out) and maybe cause problems with either rack and maybe your receiver - at least at that point, you'd be beyond the receiver's spec.
> 
> ...


Yeah I understand the forces involved but you must have missed my statement earlier that I do not intend to use this in off-road situations, rough forest roads at worst. I told the 1up people this too. I guess it's semantics but even though I have a high clearance 4X4 I basically I don't shuttle on anything your average Subaru couldn't make it up. I wouldn't expect any rack to hold up to true off-road use for long.

FWIW though North Shore does endorse their product for "off-road use", whatever that means.

I like the 1up, I really do, but it doesn't seem to meet my needs ie: 2" receiver, 4 bike capacity. Then there's the price, $900 for four bikes, $1100 for the black anodized, which you can't even get, so say $700 for three bikes, vs. $545 for four bikes or $720 for six bikes with NSR.

I guess it just boils down to the need to carry road/cross/hybrid bikes, which I don't have.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

oil said:


> Just got an email from 1up.. roof tray version is available now.
> 
> 1upusa.com/rooftray.htm


Does not look like it can be used with the hitch rack separately - can it? No information there.


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## oil (May 23, 2011)

Axe said:


> Does not look like it can be used with the hitch rack separately - can it? No information there.


I was expecting they would design it that way.. but i guess not (based on the pics)


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

beaterdit said:


> Yeah I understand the forces involved but you must have missed my statement earlier that I do not intend to use this in off-road situations, rough forest roads at worst. I told the 1up people this too. I guess it's semantics but even though I have a high clearance 4X4 I basically I don't shuttle on anything your average Subaru couldn't make it up. I wouldn't expect any rack to hold up to true off-road use for long.
> 
> FWIW though North Shore does endorse their product for "off-road use", whatever that means.
> 
> ...


No worries.

My bet is that North Shore hasn't talked to their insurance agent about this.  Looks like an interesting rack but I personally have 3 bikes (and so does most everyone in my family) and only one of the three would work on it (besides the fact I've sworn off racks touching the frame finish).

j.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

I'm thinking about buying a 1up rack and a second carrier so I can take two bikes. I think this thread has sold me on it over cheaper racks, but I have a question...

I drive an '07 Honda Civic and I'm wondering if the second tray would obstruct my license plate when the rack is folded up? I could only find a picture of one tray on a civic, and it looks like a second tray would be alright, but I can't really tell.
https://nuxx.net/gallery/v/acquired_stuff/1up_usa_quick-rack/IMG_6137.jpg.html
Can someone measure the height of the rack with two trays from the hitch to the top of the rack when it is in the vertical position?

My only other concern is that I don't trust 1 1/4" hitches, but I can't find a 2" hitch for the Civic. I understand the weight rating is a limitation of my car, but it just seems like the interface in a 1 1/4" receiver is too small to adequately prevent swaying. Plus, a while back I went on a 2000 mile road trip in the 4runner with a 2" receiver Hollywood hanging style rack with carrying 4 bikes, and by the time we got back the rack was noticeably bent. When I pulled it out there was visible deformation of the bar stock that goes in the receiver, and it's 1/4" thick steel! Of course I won't carry four bikes on the civic, but I'm just kind of paranoid about it.

I guess anything will be better than the 3 bike trunk mount rack I have now. It takes three bungee cords to fully secure my FS bike on it. One to hold the seat tube to the rack, one for the front wheel, and on the back wheel to keep it from swinging so the pedal doesn't hit my bumper. If I have it loaded with 3 bikes, it bounces like crazy when I hit bigger bumps, which are unavoidable on the city streets. That can't be good for the trunk!

I could get pro deal pricing on a Yakima or Kuat rack, but I think the 1up is worth the premium for the convenience of storing it in the trunk or in my apartment.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I wouldn't be paranoid about it. I have the version that goes into the either receiver size. I've carried 4 bikes on it cross country 3 times (about 8000 miles on it). No issues whatsoever despite hitting a massive bump at 80mph.

Because of the way that they do the 1.25 or 2" compatibility, any sway you would get from 1.25 you would also get in the 2" configuration on my rack. There is virtually no side to side sway at all. There is some motion in the vertical plane as you would expect with a lever arm off the back of your car. With 4 bikes on the rack, I'd characterize the maximum vertical movement to be 8" or so either with mountain bikes or road bikes. It looks like a lot more in your back window but if you watch it with your side mirror so you can visually compare it to the car side or watch it from another car, you see what it really is and that it is minimal even with 4 bikes. With 2 bikes, it's going to be very solid and hardly move at all in any direction - it's going to be like it's part of your car.

They also have a 100% refund policy and a lifetime guarantee. Get it and try it out. If you don't like it, you can send it back.

I doubt you can even find a 2" hitch for your car if it isn't rated for towing at that level.

Either way, I like the 1.25" version since you can make it work in a 2" hitch (if it's still like mine). Maximum flexibility.

J.


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> No worries.
> 
> My bet is that North Shore hasn't talked to their insurance agent about this.  Looks like an interesting rack but I personally have 3 bikes (and so does most everyone in my family) and only one of the three would work on it (besides the fact I've sworn off racks touching the frame finish).
> 
> j.


I have seven bikes and four of them will fit on a North Shore.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

n+1 strikes again.

I just got rid of 2 others. Neither of those would fit the North Shore either.

j.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

I purchased a 1up a few days ago, but have not seen any email replies or acknowledgements, just the paypal receipt that I paid. Is this normal behavior from 1up?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

just call them.

j.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> just call them.
> 
> j.


I'd rather not.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

well, ok.... 

J.


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## hmto (Jun 13, 2006)

ChrisMc73 said:


> I'd rather not.


why not? They are a small company but make a great product. I followed up when I ordered mine and rack(s) were sent out shortly thereafter.


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## oil (May 23, 2011)

ChrisMc73 said:


> I'd rather not.


e-mail maybe?


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

It showed up, I was just not quite patient enough. Its here, I haven't installed it yet. It arrived on Monday or Tuesday this week.


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## two wheel dan (Mar 6, 2010)

mgreene said:


> Has anyone here seen/tried the new 2" only/2 bike version?





beaterdit said:


> I see some of you have the four bike setup anyone talk to 1up about how they've removed the four bike option and now only offer three?
> 
> I was ready to order until I saw this and called them. I said I needed to carry four 40lb bikes on dirt road shuttles but NOT OFF ROAD and they told me they didn't offer a product that would meet my needs. I assume this is because the only hitch option they offer is 1.25 inch that adapts up to 2 inch. Pretty weak engineering there IMO.
> 
> ...


I have the 2 bike 2 inch version. Arrived last week. It's quite a bit heavier than I envisioned but like the 1 1/4 inch rack, it's engineered beautifully. I'll to get some pictures of it this weekend.


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## two wheel dan (Mar 6, 2010)

beaterdit said:


> I understand a 2 inch option is in the works though so maybe next year?


It's available now but it's not showing up on the website. Call and ask for it.


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

two wheel dan said:


> I have the 2 bike 2 inch version. Arrived last week. It's quite a bit heavier than I envisioned but like the 1 1/4 inch rack, it's engineered beautifully. I'll to get some pictures of it this weekend.


I was gonna pull the trigger on this but I think I'll wait it out for the time being as they don't make a black version... no indication as to if they will but i'm in no rush, my T2 is holding up just fine.

1Up BigQuick Rack


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*So wait....*



eurospek said:


> Pics as promised. I love this rack.


You found a U-Lock that fits into the safety chain loops of your Curt hitch receiver, and around the 1Up rack mounting plate?

Massive WIN. I'm getting one.

Yeah, and ditch that strap before it jacks up your beautiful paint on your beautiful car. Is that the Saabaru? Nice!!


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## Ed (Jan 12, 2005)

I emailed 1UP about the Jeep rack and they said it is a similar design made by another manufacturer several years ago using their patent, yet I emailed bike mania and they said it is made by 1UP.
I'll post up pics when it arrives 



Axe said:


> I saw them on bikemania.biz - link. I have no idea what is the receiver construction, that is why I said "I wonder". Close up pictures of the rack itself that I found indicate that it is a pretty much identical holding mechanism for bikes. One review I found indicates that it is easy to instal and has "no wobble". Descriptions says "Installs & removes in seconds without tools. Folds down to 25" x 12" x 12"".
> Just curious. But at that price I can get a second two bike rack and keep the current single tray for the second car.
> 
> I never got my roof compatible version that you got. It is delayed again. They had explicitly promised it last July - when I was making the first order. I am about to give up and just get a second foldable tray - or this Jeep one.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

I love mine too, just got it mounted this week and used it, it was awesomely easy!
I don't know what the black velcro strap is for, can someone tell me? And the smaller black alan wrench?

Also, these things are ok to leave on in the weather right? Rain isn't going to make these rust?


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## cabinfever (Feb 6, 2008)

Ordered mine on Monday, it shipped Tuesday and I was playing with it on Thursday. The build quality is even better than I expected. This thing is gonna last. It is all everyone on here says it is. I smell a roadtrip!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

ChrisMc73 said:


> I love mine too, just got it mounted this week and used it, it was awesomely easy!
> I don't know what the black velcro strap is for, can someone tell me? And the smaller black alan wrench?
> 
> Also, these things are ok to leave on in the weather right? Rain isn't going to make these rust?


What black velcro strap?

Are you referring to the allen wrench with the hole in the middle of the shaft?

These won't rust. They are aluminum.

J.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

Mine came with a black velcro strap, not sure what its for? I got 3 alan wrenches, 2 of the one with the hole in the middle, I know what its for, the third one is black and smaller not sure what its for, maybe when adding more than one rack?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You add additional bike modules with the same wrench you use to connect it to your hitch.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I have never used the velcro strap. Who knows where mine went. The smaller allen wrench is used to attach the machined aluminum block that converts the 1up from 1.25" to 2".

You don't need to worry about rust.

Andy


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

the velcro strap is 'extra protection' in case your rack comes loose from the hitch. i actually use it to hold my pedal in position since my bike's clearance to the hatch is really low.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

Ok, thanks guys. I have a 2" hitch, so I don't need to use that other one, but I'll keep it in case.
The velcro, meh...guess I'll hope my tight pressure will hold it in place.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> The unique problem with a module rack is that you can add more capacity than the receiver or rack can hold. There is nothing that would prevent me from adding 5 bikes on the back with an additional bike kit.


In your opinion would 5 bikes be do-able when using a 2" receiver on a truck or SUV? It looks like you can make it work but how would it drive?

I'm in the market for a hitch rack and I was planning on getting the NSR6 but they seem to be out of stock forever. I also don't like that fact that you can't take a road bike on it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It'd probably work but you'd sort of be asking for it. I don't think you'd overload the hitch and the 2" crossbar ought to be a lot stronger than the 1.25" one. So..... should work. There's nothing from preventing you from trying it (just money).

That said, you'd be hanging out there a mile if there was a problem unless 1UpUSA would agree that it would work.

Do you always need to take 5 bikes or just occasionally?

J.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Just occasionally and they would be 3 kids bikes on the outside.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I think 1UpUSA was using about 250lbs of bikes on the 4 rack 1.25" that I have or about 60lbs per bike. In just a pure weight perspective you'd probably be ok, especially if it wasn't a long road trip or anything. 

J.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> I think 1UpUSA was using about 250lbs of bikes on the 4 rack 1.25" that I have or about 60lbs per bike. In just a pure weight perspective you'd probably be ok, especially if it wasn't a long road trip or anything.
> 
> J.


Is your rack any different than the one they are selling now? The load would be way under 250 lbs. It'd be about 150 lbs. at most.

The road trips would be around 3 hours of mostly highway driving.

Trying to wrap my mind around the price of these things. They certainly are not cheap.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I believe the current 1.25" rack is the same as the one that I bought. That was rated at 250lbs of bikes in a 2" receiver. I doubt they redesigned it and made it less capable. I'm pretty sure they just changed the rating. You could ask them that and I'm sure they'd tell you.

For 5 bikes, for a 3 hour road trip, it's probably not a great idea on the 2" rack. Do you have access to a roof rack at all? Especially if it's an occasional use.

J.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

I ordered a 1up rack and an add-on on Monday and it shipped today, and they should be here Friday! I just thought I'd let everyone know that they aren't always slow to ship.

I was seriously considering a 3 bike Raxter since it's lighter and cheaper than a 3 bike 1up, but the fact that the 1up folds and will fit in the back of my car is what sold me.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

m85476585 said:


> I ordered a 1up rack and an add-on on Monday and it shipped today, and they should be here Friday! I just thought I'd let everyone know that they aren't always slow to ship.
> 
> I was seriously considering a 3 bike Raxter since it's lighter and cheaper than a 3 bike 1up, but the fact that the 1up folds and will fit in the back of my car is what sold me.


and it hangs so nicely on the wall of your garage or stored in it's boxes.

J.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

I don't have a garage (at least not where I can leave things like a bike rack) since I live in an apartment.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well it would hang nicely on the wall in your apartment too, but I don't know if you'd want to do that. 

J


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## sandiegobiker (Jun 15, 2009)

After reading this thread . I pulled the trigger in a black ano single version. thanks guys for the post!


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

People can't seem to leave my rack alone. It's cool that people are interested in it, but I hate when people play with it. I mean WTF? I came back from a mountain bike ride yesterday and when I got back to the parking lot my tray was in the lower angled position. I had put it upright tucked against the bumper before I left. Who messes with someone's rack when they're not around? That's like sitting on another guy's motorcycle in a parking lot. I hate people. :madman:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That is pretty crappy.

Did you put the rack up and then screw the locking ring into place? That might make it more difficult to mess with.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*I just wanted to reiterate the awesomeness of the 1Up*

I mean, how many racks can you do this with?


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

BaeckerX1 said:


> People can't seem to leave my rack alone. It's cool that people are interested in it, but I hate when people play with it. I mean WTF? I came back from a mountain bike ride yesterday and when I got back to the parking lot my tray was in the lower angled position. I had put it upright tucked against the bumper before I left. Who messes with someone's rack when they're not around? That's like sitting on another guy's motorcycle in a parking lot. I hate people. :madman:


LOL. I found out it was my buddy who I convinced to buy a 1up rack messing with me. He lives nearby the trailhead where my car was parked. I should have known.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

So you're, of course, going to mess with his head in return, right? Tells us how that goes. I love practical jokes.

J.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

skoor said:


> Any chance you might include a picture of the new frame? Love to see it. Thanks


Pictures attached.

They almost doubled the frame thickness, and tray extrusion and arms axle are beefed up. Base tray is not much more then a year old.

I wonder if I can get a thicker frame wall on the old tray. Now, all of a sudden, the original seems flimsy.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

About "upgrading" the new tray: yes. It's all interchangeable (more or less) and the costs seem fairly reasonable. I have been thinking about getting some newer stuff for mine.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Axe said:


> Pictures attached.
> 
> They almost doubled the frame thickness, and tray extrusion and arms axle are beefed up. Base tray is not much more then a year old.
> 
> I wonder if I can get a thicker frame wall on the old tray. Now, all of a sudden, the original seems flimsy.


and lighter. The new tray design is substantially heavier. I opted to get the new 2" setup and it's much heavier than the old set up. But the peace of mind is worth it.


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

I couldn't resist - I had to order mine in black with the fatbike spacers. It will be a few days before the spacers arrive from their manufacturer so hopefully they will ship the complete package early next week. I am looking forward to having one rack to do it all and to not have a short-lived Yakima or Thule rusting off the back of my car.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Mine finally came in. Wow is this thing high quality! I ordered the 2" version with the 2 trays and 2 add-ons. It was not cheap that's for sure but I figure I'll have it for life. I got it for the family vehicle that the wife drives and she loves it. We had the old style bike Jenga rack previously and she refused to use it because it was such a PITA. She just plopped her bike right on and was stoked. I mounted 4 bikes to it and it was super sturdy. I'm going to try 5 just to see how the car handles in the near future.


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## ajmacdon (Oct 26, 2010)

One more round of awesomeness: I bought my rack earlier this year (posted pics of the tailgate down with bikes on the rack earlier in this thread) and think it's about the best consumer product I've ever purchased. Someone very lightly hit it when backing out of a parking spot (I assume) because I found it with one of the legs pulled away from the truck. A small ledge on the main center tray was sheared off but otherwise things looked OK. I called 1up inquiring if I could purchase replacement parts fully expecting and OK with up to $100 or so given the intricate nature of that piece. He said no problem and asked for my address, after that he said "OK, it's on its way." I reminded him that he needed my credit card and he told me not to worry about it, if I called in a week looking for another one they would have to charge but no problem for this one piece. How awesome is that! I'm sure they're aware I will now tell even more people how cool they are so it's a win-win, how come more companies can't figure that out?

Alex


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## Joneseyyy (Aug 21, 2011)

Just got my new 2" rack with the anodized black trays and like everyone says, this thing QUALITY.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

If you can, post some pictures of the 2" version. That's a new one and I don't think we've seen a good review on it yet.

J.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

The 2" rack feels really solid and the build quality is fantastic! The only thing is the spring loaded release bar sometimes doesn't pop out on one side. I'll get better at it after some more practice (e.g., press in the middle consistently). I'd like to see the black ano version, but the silver matches my car so I'm not complaining. Here are some pics:

Loaded with 1 bike:



Side profile:



Folded up:


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## aldeezy (Nov 27, 2010)

*The only thing is the spring loaded release bar sometimes doesn't pop out on one side*

Hey Mark,

I had the same problem with mine, but I found when I lift the tray up just a little to take some pressure of the spring load bar, both sides pop out with ease. Anyways, I have the black ano 1.25" with 2 additional add ons and I can say I don't regret buying them at all. Enjoy!!


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## sandiegobiker (Jun 15, 2009)

Here my black ano single tray.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

My 29er and 26 with 1up mounted to a 2010 Focus


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

*Need a custom 2" hitch...*

Just dropped my order for the 2" version of this rack PLUS one add-on kit to start out.

My Ford F150 has a Class IV 2" hitch, so I'm good there...

What I need to do now, is find a way to get a 2" receiver tube on our Saturn ION III.

Curt has a Class I for the Saturn ION which has a seemingly beefy plate style tube mount with 4 frame mount locations for the bolts... Curt also has raw 2" receiver tubes available. I am considering cutting/grinding the 1-1/4" tube off the hitch assembly and replacing it with a 2" tube. I think the bracket mount is plenty stiff enough to handle the weight and the 4 frame mount positions would appear to be sufficient as well.

Does anyone else have a better solution for a custom mount? Other manufacturers that I might be able to do the same procedure with and wind up with a stronger mount?

Not really much to worry about really as all of our bikes are <25lbs each.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

cautery said:


> Just dropped my order for the 2" version of this rack PLUS one add-on kit to start out.
> 
> My Ford F150 has a Class IV 2" hitch, so I'm good there...
> 
> ...


Maybe it is just me but i would think the standard rack that is set up for 1 1/4 and includes a 2" adapter would have worked better for you instead of the 2" only version and unless you plan to get one of those heavy 1 1/4-2" adapters to make it fit the class 1 on the ION it would not work.

Btw i have the standard and although it is on my Focus 90% of the time i do put on the 2" adapter once in a while to mount it on my Jeep or F250 and it is very easy to take on/off


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

I agree. I have the single tray that came with the 2" adapter and an add on tray. I use it with the adapter on my toyota tundra and hyundai santa fe (both 2"). I think that would be the easiest for both applications plus it is less expensive to get the single tray and an additional add on tray. It gives you a lot of flexibility.


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## cleo (Jan 16, 2008)

Does anyone have a phone number for 1up? The one on the site gets a "Out of Service" message, fax as well. Not too encouraging.

Update: Just tried again, and got through no problem. Very strange...


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

Today, I just placed my order for the Quik-Rack 2 Bike Hitch System that fits 2" Receivers only. Sent 1up USA an email yesterday. They said from the time I place the order it will be 2-3 days max before the order ships. Should have it by the end of the day Friday next week.


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## beaterdit (Jul 26, 2009)

Looks good, this rack is back on the table for me!


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

beaterdit said:


> Looks good, this rack is back on the table for me!


Why was it off the table?


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

bikin said:


> Today, I just placed my order for the Quik-Rack 2 Bike Hitch System that fits 2" Receivers only. Sent 1up USA an email yesterday. They said from the time I place the order it will be 2-3 days max before the order ships. Should have it by the end of the day Friday next week.


Update: Placed my order yesterday. Received confirmation email that the rack is shipping out today. Much quicker than I thought!


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

bikin said:


> Update: Placed my order yesterday. Received confirmation email that the rack is shipping out today. Much quicker than I thought!


Update: Checked tracking, but it still hasn't shipped out. Apparently, the shipping label and tracking number wer created but it hasn't been picked up by UPS, yet.


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

I've had my QuikRack for about a month and it's been fantastic. Loading and unloading bikes is super easy. I don't have to worry about the rear tire straps, compressing the front tire hook, and fiddling with the lock like on the T2. I can shifting the bikes back and forth in order to get them to fit and don't have to worry about moving the seat (dropper post). My GF and I went on a short weekend trip to the Mendocino Tire Festival and did some spirited driving on highways 20 and 128. There was no creaking or cracking noises from it at all, unlike on the T2.

Aldeezy: I'm getting better at raising and lowering the tray, but I'd have to admit that the T2 had a better design in this respect. I believe had to unload the T2 in order to move the tray as well, however, it was easy to use the lever.

Sandeigobiker: Thanks for the pic. Seeing your rack (NIIIICE bike!), I think I would have preferred the black ano for the contrast.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> Maybe it is just me but i would think the standard rack that is set up for 1 1/4 and includes a 2" adapter would have worked better for you instead of the 2" only version and unless you plan to get one of those heavy 1 1/4-2" adapters to make it fit the class 1 on the ION it would not work.
> 
> Btw i have the standard and although it is on my Focus 90% of the time i do put on the 2" adapter once in a while to mount it on my Jeep or F250 and it is very easy to take on/off


Nope... I need 4-bike capacity that is insurable...

Most of the time, it'll stay on my F-150, but for long trips, we use the car to save gas...


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

*1UP USA 2"-receiver only: Best bike rack ever*

Just received my 2"-receiver only 1UP USA Bike Rack with add-on module today...

*Coolest piece of "Engineering Porn" I have ever seen in my life...*

Pics and review to follow...


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## simmonsv (Jun 11, 2011)

*1up w/ Accord*

Does anyone have an accord with the 1up hitch system? If so, have you been satisfied with it? Sorry about the hi-jack, but I don't have enough posts to start a thread or send pm's.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

simmonsv said:


> Does anyone have an accord with the 1up hitch system? If so, have you been satisfied with it? Sorry about the hi-jack, but I don't have enough posts to start a thread or send pm's.


I don't have an accord but I do have a small car as does my friend. Honestly. This is the best rack ever. I was skeptical, but this thing is just amazing.


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## sandiegobiker (Jun 15, 2009)

simmonsv said:


> Does anyone have an accord with the 1up hitch system? If so, have you been satisfied with it? Sorry about the hi-jack, but I don't have enough posts to start a thread or send pm's.


Its not an accord but it works well with my 96 honda civic and I absolutely love it!


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## simmonsv (Jun 11, 2011)

sandiegobiker said:


> Its not an accord but it works well with my 96 honda civic and I absolutely love it!


Thanks for the prompt response as well as the photo!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

cleo said:


> So I pushed the rack in too far, and the retaining ball will not retract (it's outside the rear of the hitch). Any suggestions?


Did you tighten it up? If so, loosen it back up, and the ball should easily be pushed in with your finger while you try to slide out the rack from the hitch.


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## cleo (Jan 16, 2008)

*Help! Over inserted into the hitch and now stuck!*

So I pushed the rack in too far, and the retaining ball will not retract (it's outside the rear of the hitch). Any suggestions?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

:thumbsup: Any time!!!


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## cleo (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks! That was the reassurance I was looking for. The ball wouldn't budge, but tapped with a hammer, loosened right up, now golden!


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

How far does your rack stick out when not in use? I have tight clearance in my garage a d want to know if I can leave my rack on the car all the time and still keep it in the garage.


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

Finally got around to posting a photo of my bike racked on 2" Quick-Rack.


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## bikin (Jul 2, 2004)

moldau94 said:


> How far does your rack stick out when not in use? I have tight clearance in my garage a d want to know if I can leave my rack on the car all the time and still keep it in the garage.


I tilt the rack up 45 degrees. This allows me to keep the rack on the vehicle with enough clearance to close the garage door. Though, this really depends of the size on your vehicle and the size of your garage.


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## Buadyen (Apr 18, 2009)

moldau94 said:


> How far does your rack stick out when not in use? I have tight clearance in my garage a d want to know if I can leave my rack on the car all the time and still keep it in the garage.


With the rack in it's "deployed" position (ready to accept bikes), it sticks out about 15" from the hitch receiver, or about 13 1/2" from the bumper (a 2011 Ford Fiesta hatch.) Tilted up to the 45 degree position, it sticks out about 10 1/2" from the hitch and 9 1/2" from the bumper. Tilting it up all the way reduces those numbers by about another inch.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Lovely WFO bikin.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Delete


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

*Black vs Silver*

Hello all,

New here. Thanks for all the information everyone's contributed. I have decided to get a 1up rack. However, I'm still undecided on which color to get.

I have heard that the black anodized version gets scratched up fairly easily and that it looks quite bad after it gets scratched up.

Can you all share your experiences on the black ones vs the natural silver ones?

Thanks!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, if you scratch a silver one, it's silver inside. So....... if scratches worry you, then get the silver.

Any anodizing will scratch.

J.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Bought mine before the black one were available. Black would certainly look better behind my vehicle. No problems with the silver. If the black is anodized does that not make it a part of the aluminum?


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks J,

I certainly don't mind some scratches because it is a utility after all but would love to know how easily it scratches

Thanks again for you help!


JohnJ80 said:


> Well, if you scratch a silver one, it's silver inside. So....... if scratches worry you, then get the silver.
> 
> Any anodizing will scratch.
> 
> J.


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

That's what I was trying to figure out as well. I think anodized means a layer of the black material over the natural aluminum. I have read somewhere that the silver ones are anodized as well with a clear layer?

Thanks in advance for any help!



sgtjim57 said:


> Bought mine before the black one were available. Black would certainly look better behind my vehicle. No problems with the silver. If the black is anodized does that not make it a part of the aluminum?


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

just did a quick google search on how anodizing works.

How Anodizing Aluminum Works

Hmm. I guess i'll get a couple more feedback from owners who own the black ones and then make a decision.

Thanks!


sgtjim57 said:


> Bought mine before the black one were available. Black would certainly look better behind my vehicle. No problems with the silver. If the black is anodized does that not make it a part of the aluminum?


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Well...*



myjplp said:


> just did a quick google search on how anodizing works.
> 
> How Anodizing Aluminum Works
> 
> ...


Anything coated a color other than the natural color is going to wear and show scratches. Anodizing is about as tough as it can possibly get. I mean, you're basically dying the aluminum for a couple of hundredths of an millimeter down into the metal. But... tires are going to be wiggling around in the trays, sun is going to bleach it a bit, stuff is going to get bonked around, it's going to get scratches and silver wear patches no matter what.

If you're concerned, why not just do silver?

Me, I like silver stuff. It seems that everything is black ano these days. I think it's kinda played out.


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks for your response! You've got a point! 



pimpbot said:


> Anything coated a color other than the natural color is going to wear and show scratches. Anodizing is about as tough as it can possibly get. I mean, you're basically dying the aluminum for a couple of hundredths of an millimeter down into the metal. But... tires are going to be wiggling around in the trays, sun is going to bleach it a bit, stuff is going to get bonked around, it's going to get scratches and silver wear patches no matter what.
> 
> If you're concerned, why not just do silver?
> 
> Me, I like silver stuff. It seems that everything is black ano these days. I think it's kinda played out.


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## sandiegobiker (Jun 15, 2009)

I love my black ano 1up!!!


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

Thanks for your feedback sdb!


sandiegobiker said:


> I love my black ano 1up!!!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

myjplp said:


> That's what I was trying to figure out as well. I think anodized means a layer of the black material over the natural aluminum. I have read somewhere that the silver ones are anodized as well with a clear layer?
> !


My silver is definitely not clearcoated. And it hides scratches very well. If the price was the same, maybe I would have went with black, but I love my silver rack, matches the car quite nicely and get many compliments on it.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

myjplp said:


> Thanks J,
> 
> I certainly don't mind some scratches because it is a utility after all but would love to know how easily it scratches
> 
> Thanks again for you help!


Gonna try spraying my silver one with bed liner. I've seen folks do that to auto rims and it seems to hold up.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

eurospek said:


> My silver is definitely not clearcoated...


Are you sure? All silver racks are anodized clear, which means its basically raw aluminum in color, but doesn't oxidize.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Here's all you probably want to know about anodizing:

Anodizing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It's just the process of accelerating and controlling the natural oxidizing of the metal. In that sense it does become part of the metal and is somewhat less susceptible to scratching. That said, you can relatively easily scratch anodized aluminum. You can also touch up any scratches easily with a permanent marker - a technique often used commercially with this sort of stuff.

Either way, you're probably over thinking this. If you like black, get black and I'm sure it will be fine. Black or silver, you'll like the rack.

J.


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

I love the black too. Aesthetically I think it is leagues above the silver. It has been on the car since September & I do not notice any chipping etc.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> Are you sure? All silver racks are anodized clear, which means its basically raw aluminum in color, but doesn't oxidize.


Are you sure? I was under the impression raw aluminum with a clear look like this:










Silver anodized color looks like this and more like the silver 1up racks:


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

1up does advertise that their racks are anodized. It would be strange for them to simply avoid anodizing your rack.

Just like any other treatment, the finished appearance will vary based on the specific chemicals used (that is, one anodizer's clear vs another), the material, the treatment the material got before it was anodized, the environment the part lives in, etc. For example, that Canfield looks like it was burnished prior to getting cleared. That's why it's so much shinier.

On their site, 1up is clear that their racks are anodized. Of course, they don't mention if the silver racks are clear ano or silver. Either way, they certainly have some sort of post-machining finish on them; otherwise, the aluminum would oxidize and turn silvery-white fairly quickly.


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

I am absolutely over thinking it

That's usually what happens to me when I have one "two" many options

Thanks for all your help! I will make a decision tonight and order them in the morning!



JohnJ80 said:


> Here's all you probably want to know about anodizing:
> 
> Anodizing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> 
> ...


----------



## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

The silver/natural 1up rack is anodized, just not anodized in black.



eurospek said:


> Are you sure? I was under the impression raw aluminum with a clear look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> 1up does advertise that their racks are anodized. It would be strange for them to simply avoid anodizing your rack.


I never said it wasn't anodized. It's definitely not raw aluminum. It's silver anodized. You just got confusing with the clearcoat comment. I don't think you can anodize and then clearcoat over. Never saw such a combo, it's either a wet-painted frame with clearcoat over or simply an anodized frame if we're talking about bikes.

But mine is definitely silver anodized.


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

Mentioning the clear layer was my bad...sorry

Thanks for your help!



eurospek said:


> I never said it wasn't anodized. It's definitely not raw aluminum. It's silver anodized. You just got confusing with the clearcoat comment. I don't think you can anodize and then clearcoat over. Never saw such a combo, it's either a wet-painted frame with clearcoat over or simply an anodized frame if we're talking about bikes.
> 
> But mine is definitely silver anodized.


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Can anyone chime in about carrying very different size bikes on the 2-bike hitch mount version? Specifically, I ride a FS 29er and my son is currently on a 20er







.

He'll be on this for at least another year or two, then 24", etc.....for the cost I'd like this to be the last rack I buy for a long time! 

Thanks in advance.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Any 16" or bigger will fit.

A


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

I think I should have been more clear, but I was posting late.

What I meant to say was, what about carrying two different sized bikes _at the same time_?

99% of the time, if I had to carry two bikes it will be my 29er and my son 20er.

I can do that now with my roofrack, but I want to transition to the 1upUSA 2-bike hitch rack...


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

cru_jones said:


> I think I should have been more clear, but I was posting late.
> 
> What I meant to say was, what about carrying two different sized bikes _at the same time_?
> 
> ...


Yes, you can. Each tray is adjustable. You can use an adjustable wrench (or the proper sized one) to adjust the tire size that the rack will work on. With my rack I carry 2 - 26" and 2 - 20" wheeled bikes at the same time. It can adjust any tray to the size tire it needs to fit.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Not to mention....*



woodyak said:


> Yes, you can. Each tray is adjustable. You can use an adjustable wrench (or the proper sized one) to adjust the tire size that the rack will work on. With my rack I carry 2 - 26" and 2 - 20" wheeled bikes at the same time. It can adjust any tray to the size tire it needs to fit.


The bike roll back and forth on the trays, and the adjustment is made from the end bars that hold the wheels down. That is, there is plenty of adjustment to make bars not hit saddles, etc.


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Awesome...thanks for the input.


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## Riverbud (Dec 7, 2011)

cautery said:


> *Coolest piece of "Engineering Porn" I have ever seen in my life...*


I ordered mine on a Sunday night and it was at the house by Thursday. Opened the box and couldn't believe the detail that goes into this thing. Like a friend of mine said when he saw it, this rack looks like it's machined, not stamped out in some factory.


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## JordyB (Oct 26, 2007)

Working on how to get one up to Alaska since shipping via 1up is triple digits...looks like shipping to a family members house in "America" and carried via baggage is my best option!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Riverbud said:


> I ordered mine on a Sunday night and it was at the house by Thursday. Opened the box and couldn't believe the detail that goes into this thing. Like a friend of mine said when he saw it, this rack looks like it's machined, not stamped out in some factory.


That's exactly what it is. Machined somewhere near Madison, WI.

J.


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## Riverbud (Dec 7, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> That's exactly what it is. Machined somewhere near Madison, WI.
> 
> J.


I get Thule at cost and have a garage full of their bike and kayak racks. The Thule stuff works, but the 1up is a work of art and makes the Thule stuff look cheap in comparison.

I've used the 1up twice. First time was a 45 minute drive to the local trail. Could not believe how easy it was to load the bike up. I was skeptical, but rechecked the bike after 10 minutes on the road and it was still rock solid.

Second time was to take a road bike to the LBS. Was a little concerned about the skinny tires, but the tapered rollers made plenty of contact and again bike was as secure as when I left.

The two handed operation is a little awkward, but once you figure out the technique for holding up the bike while pivoting or unpivoting the arms it's all good.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Riverbud said:


> The two handed operation is a little awkward, but once you figure out the technique for holding up the bike while pivoting or unpivoting the arms it's all good.


I set one arm to the angle it's "supposed" to be at for my particular bike while lowering the other arm all the way down (more or less). I stick the back wheel into the arm that is in the correct position and then raise and snug the other arm. Bam!


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Just ordered mine tonight after selling off my Yakima rack! Cannot wait. I literally used to slightly dread going riding if I new I had to drive, but now I'm thinking I'll be looking foward to it. No more tagging a folding stepstool along in order to reach my 29er on the roof!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

And it cleans up so well!!! Finally got a chance to give it a proper cleaning tonight after season's end (never cleaned it during the season) and it looks as it did on day one. Took no more than some Dawn dish soap and a sponge to get off all the road grime, mud, and spatter of chain lube off.


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## apbtlvr (Jun 6, 2011)

*Fat Backs Fit Fine*

I had a Thule Helium still boxed when an opportunity arose to try my Fat Back on one. Those support bars were just too narrow and I was not at all comfortable with the stability factor. It's a nice rack but...
Instead, I got a Quick Rack and I'm glad I did so. They put the spacer kit on for me and rack installed on a '07 Pilot without a hitch (no pun intended). Very robust build and low profile. It shows up on the rearview camera but not so as to create a problem. The first pic shows how it appears folded up when not in use.

Only negative was lifting/ closing the spacers arms made the bushings screech like a canary getting gang-raped. Sprayed lube on to cure it.

The greenback fits on perfectly and it's worth mentioning that I had no clamping issues with an OMM Sherpa on the rear. That's good as I may add a front rack at some point. Rack design will not interfere with frame bags either. Come summer and I may spring for the add-on kit.

*@JordyB:* FYI, a single rack is 30lbs boxed. Packaging is fairly robust w/ hand slot for carrying. Your game plan for getting it to AK is sensible. Hope that works out travel wise.


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## feifei1 (Dec 30, 2011)

*hello*

you are great


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

This thing should be on Modern Marvels.

Just as expected based on everyone elses' comments, it's perfect. The only thing that could better would be if it loaded itself.

Just as I hoped, my 29er and my son's 20er fit perfectly.

Installed on a Jeep Cherokee XJ.

Snapped a few pics, including some showing the 3.25 x 6-Inch Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit .


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

I see they updated their decals.


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## Moto Rider (Dec 30, 2006)

I just installed a new hitch on my car and I’m in need of a new rack. I’ve been going back between the Thule Helium, Kuat Beta and the USA1.

My needs are…Quality, light weight, storable and ease of use.

The Kuat Beta is the lightest of the group and the least expensive. However, at 12 lbs I’m unsure about the racks longevity. The Thule, well, what can you say…it’s a Thule. I’m sure that rack will hold up over time. But, it cost the same as this USA1 rack. 

I love how the USA1 rack folds up and I can see the quality of it’s construction and design. Has anyone reported any issues with this rack?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Not to my knowledge. The rack is simple and it's well designed. 1UpUSA offers a pretty good guarantee if you don't like it too.

j.


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## cru_jones (Mar 21, 2009)

Worth every penny. I could have bought two with the money I spent over the years trying to get cheaper racks to work.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

cru_jones said:


> Worth every penny. I could have bought two with the money I spent over the years trying to get cheaper racks to work.


+1 Me too. This is a good value in my book.

j.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

*Yes, yes, yes, yes, YES!!!*

I bought the 2" rack with an extra add-on module... Best money I have EVER spent on a cycling related purchase... bar none!

Really, really love it. (It makes all those other steal monsters I've owned over the years seem like such a waste..)


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

apbtlvr said:


> Sprayed lube on to cure it. [/QOUTE]
> 
> If you must lube it (you don't really need to), don't get any on the nylock nuts and washers. It will allow the nylocks to loosen over time. It feels good in the moment but you'll be sad down the road. I speak from experience.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

In regards to the arms squeaking when moving them, I too experienced this when the rack was new and it rained outside when in use. I asked about lubing it to quiet it down but never really bothered doing it, and the noise is now definitely gone after a couple months use, even if it rains. I guess it just needs to be broken in.


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## myjplp (Dec 10, 2011)

Just got around to taking a few pictures. No fancy backdrops and plus they had to be night shots too...

I came from a Yakima stickup and was looking at either getting a Yakima Holdup, Thule 2, or the Kuat NV until I started reading about these 1up's. I needed something that won't take up too much room in my garage when I'm not using the rack because my garage is plenty full as it is. I wanted something that stayed small on my vehicle when I'm really only bringing one bike with me most of the time. I wanted something that is easy to use as far as installation, mounting, and unmounting as well as not back breaking when handling the rack.

I chose the black anodized because I can't get over how nice it looked in the pictures and in-person even nicer! There are already scratches on the rack from the little I've used it but it hasn't bothered me like I was worried that it would. I am extremely happy with this purchase. It IS more expensive right now (don't know about over the longer term) but I guess the satisfaction drowns out the spending


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## apbtlvr (Jun 6, 2011)

racerwad said:


> apbtlvr said:
> 
> 
> > Sprayed lube on to cure it. [/QOUTE]
> ...


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## swan3609 (Oct 28, 2006)

Damn you guys.. You have me wanting to sell my T2+2 setup now.. 

My current setup is my T2+2 that is a PITA to put on and off my dad's 01 Expedition when I want to use it.. And I also have a 01 Subie Forester with 2 Thule side arm roof racks and a Rockymountain tray.. My Forester is going to get a custom 2" hitch installed (not for towing purposes, just for the fact that I have 3 other vehicles with 2' hitches and accessories.) 

But my racing and road trips I have been stuck taking the expedition due to me not being able to carry 4 bikes with the Subie.. (My Dj, My Roaddie or cross,My All mountain rig, and dads or Gf's bike)

I seriously am thinking that A 2" 1up plus 2 Add on's would be perfect for my needs.. When I want to use it on the Exdedition, I could use the Big rack +2 add on's to carry the 4 bikes when we use the Expedition for shuttling and we need the big car.. and then when I want to use my Subie for road trips or easy on the pocket shuttling, I can use the 2 place and then have my other 2 on the tops of the car..

The 2 place on the back of the Sub would be 50lbs for the rack + 80lbs max for the bikes ( more like 55-60 seeing as every bike I own is sub-30) and I would be at ~130lbs and even with the added leverage of the hitch, I would still think I am under the 350lbs max load of my Subie.. 

My Only complaint..
I know that the 1Up is solid and made very well USA products, but getting just the 1up and only 1 add on hurts for the price I paid for my T2+2 and my 2 Thule roof racks so we can carry 6 bikes between my Subie and my dads Expedition.. these things are damn expensive.. I will see how tax returns and the next year treats me..


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

I just ordered this piece of work... it will arrive 1/31. I can hardly wait. I needed a new rack for my new car. I really like my old Thule, but the thing weighed a metric ton, and did not fold up nice and compact for easy storage. The 1up will reside in my trunk the 4-5 days a week I'm not riding.

I like that it's made in the Driftless region of Wisconsin, the state I grew up in.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Me too. Mine shipped today and arrives 1/31!!


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

You won't be disappointed in your purchase. I've had mine a couple months on my Jetta Sportwagen with no complaints. It's easy to pull off one of the trays or take off completely. I can easily go from my 1.25 inch on the wagon to my wife's SUV with 2" receiver.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Just got my 1-Up today. What a great piece of equipment!! I'm so used to cheap, flimsy metal and plastic products that this was a real pleasant surprise. Fantastic engineering, I must say. It went on easy, and I got the bike installed in just a few seconds. 

Since you need to hold the red lever to raise the arm supports, I'm wondering about holding the bike steady while using both hands to raise the support, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. 

I'm sure that this will be well worth the money!


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Mine arrived today! Read the instructions, and had it on in 10 minutes. I just love how it'll come off in seconds and stow in the trunk, which was the main selling point for me for a new rack. Heck, my Thule Doubletrack is fine, but it weighs a metric ton and does not fold. It had to be replaced.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Glad you liked it. I didn't think you'd be disappointed.


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi, had some questions for current owners:

1) are there any components that can rust with this rack?
2) anyone using a 4-tray setup, and if maxing out the rack this way causes any disconcerting rack movement?
3) anyone with a 4-tray setup with pics of what that looks like with regard to how far it sticks out, and when folded up?


I placed an order for a two tray setup. Down the road I might go with the additional extensions.

Thanks!


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## ser182 (Oct 13, 2004)

Man I wih I would have saw this a few months ago. But I still needed a 5 biker.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

kameraguy said:


> Hi, had some questions for current owners:
> 
> 1) are there any components that can rust with this rack?
> 2) anyone using a 4-tray setup, and if maxing out the rack this way causes any disconcerting rack movement?
> ...


Here's the pictures you wanted.

I've driven this rack fully loaded with 4 bikes for more than 10,000 miles at highway speeds with no problems including hitting some major bumps. Anytime you cantilever that much weight, you will see it go up and down some. But it's only a few inches and a lot of it has to do with when you are going up/down in the car and when the rack is (i.e. not at the same time). Follow it with another car and you will see it is minimal. THen follow the same with a steel rack and watch how far that one bounces.

J.

4 tray folded up









4 tray down









4 tray loaded and down:


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Here's the pictures you wanted.
> 4 tray loaded and down:


Awesome, thank you for the pics and feedback. Question on this particular pic. It looks like the bikes/trays are slightly leaning back...is this normal? I had the impression the bikes would stand vertical, and most of the two-bike setups show that.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Mine's an older rack and it's winter here so it's not on the car much lately.

I think there is a slight backwards cant but I don't recall. I think because of the closeness to the vehicle and to accommodate all vehicles (and opening rear windows), they gave it a slight backwards angle. You can see how close the handlebar on the frontmost bike is to the car. Anyhow, it works great and has for a lot of miles.

This is the older 1.25" 4 bike rack that works with both the 2" and the 1.25" hitch. We have it installed in a 2" receiver here.


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

Got mine today and am super happy with it. No surprise at how well it was made since that was detailed in this thread. Nonetheless, seeing the quality of construction in person was impressive. It does kinda look like a DIY project compared to the other brands, but I actually like how it looks. The anodized levers look sweet.










Found that there was an obvious blemish on one of the levers (guessing the rack must have scrapped against something to expose the aluminum in this area), but not a big deal.










Very pleased at how compact everything is. Fits nicely in the trunk.










Tossed the car around to see how things would move. It IS disconcerting at how the bikes jiggle about in the rear-view camera, but seeing in person how well they are held relieved my concerns. Bought a u-lock and cable to secure the rack and bikes to the hitch loops. Perfect.










One of the best purchases I've made in a while :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Awesome FXT!!!!


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## jmblur (Jul 3, 2007)

eonicks said:


> You won't be disappointed in your purchase. I've had mine a couple months on my Jetta Sportwagen with no complaints. It's easy to pull off one of the trays or take off completely. I can easily go from my 1.25 inch on the wagon to my wife's SUV with 2" receiver.


Can you open the trunk when the rack is tilted? I figure geometry is likely similar to my '10 GTI...

Thanks!


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Thinking about selling my Kuat Sherpa for the 1UP now. Reasoning based on the ability to only have 1 platform mounted and the add-on stashed in my hatch when needed. Hmm....


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

anthonylokrn said:


> Thinking about selling my Kuat Sherpa for the 1UP now. Reasoning based on the ability to only have 1 platform mounted and the add-on stashed in my hatch when needed. Hmm....


^^This was a deciding factor for me as well. I LOVE the fact it is so easy to remove the extra add-ons and store them easily. Also, because they fold so compact, it's so easy to keep the entire rack and add-ons in the trunk so you have it all the time without it dangling at the back. The more I see other racks on the road, the more I appreciate the brilliance of the quik rack. They hit a home run with this design.



eurospek said:


> Awesome FXT!!!!


Thanks!!


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

jmblur said:


> Can you open the trunk when the rack is tilted? I figure geometry is likely similar to my '10 GTI...
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, you can open trunk with tilted rack.


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

*crooked hitch or rack?*

Hi Guys,

Wondering if anyone has the noticed the same. When i fold up my rack, I find that it tilts lower in the left, meaning when viewed straight-on from the back, the rack is not parallel to the bumper as reference. Here is a picture to illustrate what I mean:










I went back to the place who installed my Curt hitch and they said the hitch is installed level.

With that in mind, I tried to re-adjust my rack several times, but whenever i tighten it down, it always tilts ever so slightly this way.

Perhaps I'm nitpicking, but is it normal? I do see others who seem to have level racks when folded. Wondering if my hitch is indeed crooked, or if the rack normally does this due to the ball pressure exerted on only one side.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

Mine is square. When looking at the picture with your bikes on the rack, it does seem a bit skewed. But it might be the angle of the picture.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Mine is also square in four different hitches I've used.

The hitch receiver opening itself may not be square with the hitch. If it really bothers you, you could take a level to the hitch frame and the hitch opening to see where the discrepancy is. 

A


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

Thx for the feedback guys. The place who installed my hitch took a look and said the hitch is straight. At this point i am trying to find someone with any other hitch rack to try on mine to see if the issue still may be with my hitch. Anyway, it's good to know what i am seeing is not normal.

As a note: I've also presented my issue to 1upusa, who has been immediately responsive to me and offered to send me a replacement of their hitch interface (in case it was welded crooked) which is appreciated. Before I take them up on their offer, I'll perform my due diligence here to make sure the hitch is not at fault.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

It is really great to hear that 1Up is quick to react. I had a good feeling about their product and service before I bought mine, and this proves it to me.. Try to get service from China...:ihih:


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Hmmm....*



kameraguy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Wondering if anyone has the noticed the same. When i fold up my rack, I find that it tilts lower in the left, meaning when viewed straight-on from the back, the rack is not parallel to the bumper as reference. Here is a picture to illustrate what I mean:
> 
> ...


Mine is a bit crooked as well. I just figured it was because the wedge fixing ball is on a corner. No biggie, IMO. It's not bad enough to actually expend brain and sweat cycles on.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Is there any play at hinge where the platform pivots?


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

pimpbot said:


> Mine is a bit crooked as well. I just figured it was because the wedge fixing ball is on a corner. No biggie, IMO. It's not bad enough to actually expend brain and sweat cycles on.


I hear ya. It's no big deal since the rack works fine. But I admit to being a bit OCD when it comes to stuff like this :crazy:

Funny thing is I just don't know anyone else with a hitch rack, lol. Will call and see if the hitch place has some sort of accessory attachment I can try to help confirm if the problem follows my hitch.



anthonylokrn said:


> Is there any play at hinge where the platform pivots?


It's extremely solid, though technically it does have a fraction of movement where the lock bar sits in the grooves to adjust the angle. But nothing I can tell that would contribute to this slant.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The "attachment" the installers would use is called a level. Either the hitch is out of square (via its connection to your car) or the receiver opening itself was not welded square to the mounting bracket. It would be a simple thing to check yourself.

Is the hitch on your Subaru a 2"? That could contribute to this wonkiness, but I have my doubts. I use my rack (1 1/4") in a cheapie Harbor Freight receiver box (2") and have no alignment issues.

I am biased towards thinking the Curt hitch isn't welded level/square/plumb/whatever. I haven't been impressed with their products.

Either way, the rack (and hitch and install) is pricey. I think it's reasonable to make sure your OCD is suppressed :thumbsup:


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Anyone know what these rubber/plastic pieces are on the arms?


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## kameraguy (Oct 12, 2004)

They hold the arm snug against the locking lever when folded down.


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

They sort act as spacers when you fold it down it keeps the arms aligned and not rubbing metal on metal.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

*More testimony to the versatility of the 1Up*

Not only will it fit 29" but also 16" kids bikes!


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

I just bit and ordered a single rack since I have a pending buyer on my Kuat Sherpa.

Going to eventually pickup the +1 add-on when I need it, though I would've ordered it at the same time if there was a price break on the combo.


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## HalFliP (Mar 15, 2009)

kameraguy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Wondering if anyone has the noticed the same. When i fold up my rack, I find that it tilts lower in the left, meaning when viewed straight-on from the back, the rack is not parallel to the bumper as reference. Here is a picture to illustrate what I mean:
> 
> ...


What else would they say....?? I have the same issue with a U-Haul Hitch receiver I installed on my Titan. I had a Thule platform rack that was always crooked(not level with bumper) and drove me crazy.....it worked fine but just bugged. I figured that it had just gotten bent from usage or whatever. Anyway, I got a Kuat NV at Interbike and was looking forward to having a nice straight rack. No such luck. That NV leaned almost exactly like the Thule.

Turns out that the hitch receiver was rotated clockwise ever so slightly when it was welded into place. I took it back to U-Haul for a warranty and they told me I was out of luck sice I bought it A-LA-Carte and installed it myself. District mananger backed up the location and told me I was out of luck.

Won't be dealing with that company anymore.

Take a good look at your receiver. The hitch probably is level since it is bolted to the frame of your car....but if the receiver is rotated as mine was, you will get the "tilted" look with whatever goes into it. Hope you didn't buy it from UHaul.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

My order is coming in Tuesday, I'm excited to see how it compares to the Kuat Sherpa.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Here's mine. I love the engineering and simplicity of this. I definitely have the nicest rack in the parking lot at the trailhead!

I have to admit that the simple design of the rack has me a bit unnecessarily concerned -- I'm a bit afraid of the arm supports 'easing off' while I'm driving, and that's the only thing holding the bike in place. However, I'm sure that this is just me being paranoid as I see the bike rattle around in the rear view mirror, which you're going to get with any rack. I've read hear about people using this rack with no problems on cross country trips, so I shouldn't worry.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

moldau94 said:


> ...I have to admit that the simple design of the rack has me a bit unnecessarily concerned -- I'm a bit afraid of the arm supports 'easing off' while I'm driving, and that's the only thing holding the bike in place. However, I'm sure that this is just me being paranoid as I see the bike rattle around in the rear view mirror, which you're going to get with any rack. I've read hear about people using this rack with no problems on cross country trips, so I shouldn't worry.


You definitely have nothing to worry about. Since it's new to you it's definitely worth keeping an eye on in case something fails early on but I doubt it. I had one of the bolts which allows the arms to pivot (at the trays) come all the way out and the arms still held fine.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Just pulled the trigger!


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Just received mine today. Been messing with it and by golly this rack is quality...much more than my Kuat Sherpa.

The machining on this rack is phenomenal...everything just fits perfectly and doesn't rattle. Although the latch is a little bit cumbersome, it is indeed very secure.

I'm still not secure about their anti-theft hex tool...since it is basically a hex that is drilled out.


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## WXYZ (Apr 21, 2008)

Got mine on Friday. Can't believe the quality compared to my old yakima stuff. I love how easy it is to load vs a roof rack. Only problem I've found is that its difficult to remove from the hitch. I loosened the bolt but it doesn't seem to retract the ball like it should. I couldn't get the rack to move and had to pound on it with a rubber mallet to get it loose enough to pull out. I tried it with the rack off the car and again couldn't get the ball to retract without banging it in. Seems like its getting stuck somehow when its tightened. Anyone else have this problem? It wouldn't be much of a problem except one of the big reasons I got it was how quick and easy (it should be) to remove and move between vehicles.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

I had a similar problem with the ball not retracting when installing for the first time. I hit it with a mallet and havent had any problems since (couple weeks).


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Used the rack today and I am completely satisfied with this rack.

In comparison to my past Kuat Sherpa, the 1UP rack is so much better in the fit, finish, and overall quality. I experienced less bike wobble while driving on the freeway. The latch fits into the groove with precision and there is NO play/wobble what-so-ever...not so for the Sherpa.

Without having to use a hitchpin, the 1UP can be inserted much further into the receiver compared to the Sherpa.

I highly recommend the 1UP over the Kuat Sherpa...based on my experience. A bit more expensive, but the quality is there. Not to bash on Kuat, they do have a awesome customer service base, but the rack was just not as robust as the 1UP. I would happily choose the Kuat over a Yakima or Thule though.


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

Anyone know if 1Up offer some upgrade program to trade in a 1Up single for the 1Up 2-bike setup that can carry up to 4 bikes?

At the time I bought mine, they only offer the single bike. I'm currently carry 3 bikes, would like to carry all four instead of putting the 4th bike inside the car with me, which I know isn't safe.

Thanks!


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

I would just call them. You will need to anyways.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Actually the previous rack that would work in both a 1.25" and 2" receiver was capable of handling 4 bikes in a 2" receiver. You could just buy an extra kit and you'd be there. 

That's the rack I have and I use it with 4 bikes all the time.

J.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I ordered the hidden hitch and the 1UP Quik Rack.

I don't feel safe leaving my bikes unattended while on the rack. What do you use to secure the bike to the rack? Pics?


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I don't feel safe leaving my bikes unattended while on the rack. What do you use to secure the bike to the rack? Pics?


I usually do not leave them, but when I do - cable lock through the hitch. It is a mild deterrent anyway, no matter what you do, from a casual tweeker or a stupid kid.

If I leave for a ny prolonged period of time, bike goes inside the car, as well as the rack.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> I ordered the hidden hitch and the 1UP Quik Rack.
> 
> I don't feel safe leaving my bikes unattended while on the rack. What do you use to secure the bike to the rack? Pics?


Standard bike locking procedures apply:


>Those cylinder type locks that Yakima and Thule have are less than crap. Probably the easiest to break.
>The thinner cable locks will deter the casual thief but are easily cut.
>Ulocks are generally the strongest but it would be a challenge to find a good way to secure the lock around both the bike and the rack.
>Those real thick chain locks seem to be the best for this application for max security.
>All locks can be broken by a determined experienced bike thief so it'd be best to remove the temptation by not leaving your bike unattended if you live in such an area.

Personally, I live in a very safe neighborhood and everywhere the bike goes with me tends to be pretty safe so I've been getting away with a cable lock. After reading some of the more recent articles on bike theft I am more nervous doing this so I'll probably pick up one of those big ass chain locks in the near future.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

I generally don't leave my bike unattended at all, which poses a problem if I've got a hankering for a burrito on the way home from a ride. 

However, with the time change, I'm now bringing the bike to work on my 1Up. We have a private (publicly inaccessible) parking garage, and if I back into a space up against the wall, it would be very difficult to remove the bike.

Just the same, though, I bought a thick (14mm) cable lock as a deterrent. However, it's 7-feet long, and it's not long enough to wrap around the bike and the hitch receiver. I'm now shopping around for a longer cable.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Often I end up going for lunch with a bunch of friends after a ride.

I can never be comfortable leaving the bike on the rack. At least I want a tough cable long that could potentially deter a thief.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Often I end up going for lunch with a bunch of friends after a ride.
> 
> I can never be comfortable leaving the bike on the rack. At least I want a tough cable long that could potentially deter a thief.


I have two cables. One thick one that goes through the hitch and frame, and a small one (which I also use with my beater commuter bike) that goes around wheel and rack, or around two bikes if I have them. I also may take seats off and through them into car.

Together with theft deterrent bolt on the rack itself I think that is enough for a opportunistic casual thief - for a short stop for lunch scenario. For any extended time (like parking lot at work, or parked near house) bikes and rack go off and inside.


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## Valhalla (Mar 30, 2004)

This is definitely the only downside to this rack. Thick cable seems to be the only option. I have it connected to a u-lock attached on the bottom of the rack (not the tray). With my old Thule I could u-lock frame to rack and add the cable as extra security.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Cables are easily cut. I have a case-hardened square chain that works pretty well (so far!) in that it would take slightly longer to cut than a cable. Those who think the "locks" on Thule or Yakima racks provide any real deterrent are only kidding themselves. The best strategy is to minimize risk over all: don't be predictable, don't leave your bike unattended for long stretches, don't make the theft "easy", etc. I have carried my bike daily and left it in a semi-secured lot for 12 hours a day for quite some time. It's a hassle to lock it or change my routine but, combined with good luck, has been working so far.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

What's the response time on ordering the one bike rack? I ordered one on Saturday and expected something telling me when they're gonna ship it by now. Not a fan of not hearing anything for three days.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

campisi said:


> What's the response time on ordering the one bike rack? I ordered one on Saturday and expected something telling me when they're gonna ship it by now. Not a fan of not hearing anything for three days.


Mine took two days to pack and ship, IIRC. I get the feeling they are a small two person shop that assembles them as the orders come in.

IIRC, it was a full week from order time to UPS man dropping it off at my door at work to California.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Yeah the tilting could be a pain in the ass especially when you have two bikes loaded. Although it is a downfall of this rack, it is also a plus since it is so solidly engaged into each tilt position.


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## mat_edge05 (Mar 15, 2012)

*How easy to tilt?*

So the 1up rack looks solid and well built, but watching a video review of it on youtube, when the guy was tilting the rack away from the car, so he can access the hatch, it looked like a pain in the... and he only had the basic rack with no bike add-on. He was standing behind the bike, tilting the rack towards him, while reaching through the bike to pull the lever to tilt it. Then the bike was pushing down on him. IF that's the only way to tilt the bike rack away, that doesn't seem even closely comfortable with additional bike add on, impossible with 3 or 4. My question is, if there is a better way/more comfortable way to tilt the rack away? If not, this seems like the only design problem of the bike rack but pretty big one. I just purchased a Thule T2 and thinking about getting this one and spending the extra cash, that is if the tilting function is decent. Also, this rack isn't much lighter than other hitch mount bike racks. It weights just above 25 lbs, and the add-on is 20 lbs, that is 45+lbs for two bike carrier, compared to 48lbs for the Thule T2, which is still a breeze to remove and put on. The storage is another issue. Thanks


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

mat_edge05 said:


> So the 1up rack looks solid and well built, but watching a video review of it on youtube, when the guy was tilting the rack away from the car, so he can access the hatch, it looked like a pain in the... and he only had the basic rack with no bike add-on. He was standing behind the bike, tilting the rack towards him, while reaching through the bike to pull the lever to tilt it. Then the bike was pushing down on him. IF that's the only way to tilt the bike rack away, that doesn't seem even closely comfortable with additional bike add on, impossible with 3 or 4. My question is, if there is a better way/more comfortable way to tilt the rack away? If not, this seems like the only design problem of the bike rack but pretty big one. I just purchased a Thule T2 and thinking about getting this one and spending the extra cash, that is if the tilting function is decent. Also, this rack isn't much lighter than other hitch mount bike racks. It weights just above 25 lbs, and the add-on is 20 lbs, that is 45+lbs for two bike carrier, compared to 48lbs for the Thule T2, which is still a breeze to remove and put on. The storage is another issue. Thanks


Without putting a lot of time into figuring it out, you must have your weights wrong. Even if they were about the same size, the difference in weight between aluminum and steel would be huge. My rack with spots for two bikes sure doesn't feel like 45 lbs.

Tilting the bikes away from the car can be done, and we've done it with 4 bikes on it. That said, bikes are not all that light (assume 30lbs for a mountain bike or so) such that doing it yourself is going to be tricky. Doing it with two people is simple. I would have zero problems doing it with one person and one bike.

But, it's generally easier to take the inner most bike off. That's really fast and then you can usually open the back with no problem. It's so easy to load and unload a bike that I think I'd do that.

We also have one of those Yak racks that fits in the hitch with the bikes hanging from the top tube and can swing away from the car to access the back. The demo it on line without bikes on it and boy, is it easy? Then put a bike several bikes on it and getting it away from the car becomes a project. I would surmise that is true for almost any rack.

J.


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## mat_edge05 (Mar 15, 2012)

*bike rack weight*



JohnJ80 said:


> Without putting a lot of time into figuring it out, you must have your weights wrong. Even if they were about the same size, the difference in weight between aluminum and steel would be huge. My rack with spots for two bikes sure doesn't feel like 45 lbs.
> 
> Tilting the bikes away from the car can be done, and we've done it with 4 bikes on it. That said, bikes are not all that light (assume 30lbs for a mountain bike or so) such that doing it yourself is going to be tricky. Doing it with two people is simple. I would have zero problems doing it with one person and one bike.
> 
> ...


The 45 lbs is according to the 1up website (25lbs for the base with one rack, 20lbs for the add-on), so I hope they don't have it wrong. That's the thing, I want to be able to tilt it myself. What if other person is not available at the moment, or I just need to pull the car over really quick to get into the trunk. Taking off the bikes is fast, but then you have to lean them against something or lay them down, which I don't like to do. The Thule t2 is actually a breeze to tilt down an put back on. Taking off bikes is maybe 5 seconds slower. Also since the Thule is made out of steel, they don't have to use the same thickness as aluminum, so that could be why its not that much heavier. Tensile strength of steel can be even twice the value or more than aluminum. The 1up looks like a good rack, well built and thought out (except the tilting) and don't want to talk badly about a company, but I hope they didn't just put pieces of aluminum together and thought it would hold up. I guarantee you Thule has engineers performing Finite Element Analysis on their racks. Hopefully 1up hired someone too or maybe someone is an engineer there.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That's strikes me as shipping weight, not actual weight. They ship them in very heavy duty boxes that the intend to be used as storage (reusable). That said, I just hang my rack on pegs on the wall.

Here's the deal. You don't have to keep it all bolted together - why would you? It literally takes about 30 seconds to mount the main piece into the recover and another 10-15 secs to mount the second piece (add on kit). I'm not kidding on those times, either. It's very easy - my kids put it together when they were smaller.

Here's a video of some guy putting on a dual setup. Look at how easily he handles the rack. He gets the rack on the car and two bikes on it in less than 2 minutes. And he's not particularly efficient.

1UpUSA.com bike rack installation and bike mounting. (Under 2 minutes) - YouTube

If you read this whole thread, you'll find the the thing is built really well. No issues at all with fragility or anything like that.

To tilt it down, you unscrew the lock, take a bit of pressure off of the latch and lower it down.

I bought mine with the idea that "Oh, that tilt feature is really cool," and then have never used it. But we use ours mostly with 4 bikes and thats a lot to tilt no matter what. For one bike, it's just as easy to remove the bike. However, we do use it to tilt the rack up when on a trip and the track is not being used - that works great.

I think many 1UpUSA owners would say that this is the best rack they've owned.

J.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

mat_edge05 said:


> Thule has engineers performing Finite Element Analysis on their racks. Hopefully 1up hired someone too or maybe someone is an engineer there.


If you have seen one of these racks, you probably would see that it is well engineered. Your comment seems to be a little irresponsible. Given your concerns about the tilting, perhaps this isn't the rack for you. Good luck with the Thule, it's not a bad rack either.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

mat_edge05 said:


> The 45 lbs is according to the 1up website (25lbs for the base with one rack, 20lbs for the add-on), so I hope they don't have it wrong. That's the thing, I want to be able to tilt it myself. What if other person is not available at the moment, or I just need to pull the car over really quick to get into the trunk. Taking off the bikes is fast, but then you have to lean them against something or lay them down, which I don't like to do. The Thule t2 is actually a breeze to tilt down an put back on. Taking off bikes is maybe 5 seconds slower. Also since the Thule is made out of steel, they don't have to use the same thickness as aluminum, so that could be why its not that much heavier. Tensile strength of steel can be even twice the value or more than aluminum. The 1up looks like a good rack, well built and thought out (except the tilting) and don't want to talk badly about a company, but I hope they didn't just put pieces of aluminum together and thought it would hold up. I guarantee you Thule has engineers performing Finite Element Analysis on their racks. Hopefully 1up hired someone too or maybe someone is an engineer there.


I guess Thule spent so much on their engineers performing "Finite Element Analysis" they forgot to improve on every other aspect. Sure steel is strong and stiff, but my T2 rusted like no other. Very nice that Thule incorporated built-in locks, but too bad all it takes is a flathead to pull out the whole lock. True that the T2 is easier to tilt, but it sure does suck when one of the platform somehow shimmy down and blocks the lever.

My experience with the T2 was that. Good rack overall, but does not even come close to touching the 1UP or Kuat racks.


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## mat_edge05 (Mar 15, 2012)

moldau94 said:


> If you have seen one of these racks, you probably would see that it is well engineered. Your comment seems to be a little irresponsible. Given your concerns about the tilting, perhaps this isn't the rack for you. Good luck with the Thule, it's not a bad rack either.


Just because it looks like it was engineered properly doesn't mean it is. Calculations need to be made and of course testing too. Not just taking for a test drive, but actual testing with machines. It's probably fine though, if anything should fail on the hitch/bike rack apparatus, it should be welds on a hitch. I used the tilting function on the T2 so far everyday I had a bike on. I like the fact that I would be able to take off the 2nd bike rack of the 1up if I didn't need it. The T2 sticks out pretty far. Plus is bulky to store too. If I could just see the 1up in person, would like to try it before I buy it.


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## mat_edge05 (Mar 15, 2012)

anthonylokrn said:


> I guess Thule spent so much on their engineers performing "Finite Element Analysis" they forgot to improve on every other aspect. Sure steel is strong and stiff, but my T2 rusted like no other. Very nice that Thule incorporated built-in locks, but too bad all it takes is a flathead to pull out the whole lock. True that the T2 is easier to tilt, but it sure does suck when one of the platform somehow shimmy down and blocks the lever.
> 
> My experience with the T2 was that. Good rack overall, but does not even come close to touching the 1UP or Kuat racks.


If someone wants to steal the bike off of a rack they can if they're good. Yeah the locks are are joke, I only use them as an extra security preventing the tire arm hook from magically slipping from the wheel. They're also good if you're just walking into the gas station really quick. Anything longer, and I always have a thick long hardened cable to wrap around the rack and through the hitch. Again, just to make the people work for it, if they want to steal my bike. The 1up doesn't even come with any locks for the bike except the one locking it to the hitch. So off the 1up, the bike could be stolen in 5 seconds, since its so fast to take the bike off. So cable is required all the time. Plus aluminum is lot easier to cut than a hardened cable or steel. But enough of the war. There isn't a bike rack that is perfect, well not for everyone at least. I still think the 1up looks like a good rack


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

If you are depending on a bike rack in any way for security of your bike, you probably won't have your bike for long - I don't care whose rack it is. All of them are easy to defeat in mere seconds (like less than 10). 

J


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

*bichin' rack!*

It's all been said already...I just got my 1up rack installed today and wanted to post up a pic. As others have said it's a beautiful piece of work. I've owned several hitch racks and this is the most stable by a huge margin. Amazingly simple to use also...my teenage daughter figured out how to get her bike on it when I wasn't around and she never even looked at the instruction sheet.

It was less than 1 week from placing the order to the box on the door. Arrived nicely packaged and fully assembled--shipping "included" in the price which is a nice touch.

Money well spent. I'll be ordering at least one add-on.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Me too*



anthonylokrn said:


> I guess Thule spent so much on their engineers performing "Finite Element Analysis" they forgot to improve on every other aspect. Sure steel is strong and stiff, but my T2 rusted like no other. Very nice that Thule incorporated built-in locks, but too bad all it takes is a flathead to pull out the whole lock. True that the T2 is easier to tilt, but it sure does suck when one of the platform somehow shimmy down and blocks the lever.
> 
> My experience with the T2 was that. Good rack overall, but does not even come close to touching the 1UP or Kuat racks.


I just remember how ungodly heavy my T2 was, for what it was... , and it didn't fold down to fit in my trunk. It seemed like it was built with zero regard for weight. The thing was 56 pounds empty. It was big, bulky, heavy and not very well designed, IMO.

Now, I just fold up and throw my 1Up USA rack in my trunk and forget about it until I need it.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Just got my 1Up quick rack a few weeks ago and used it for the first time this weekend. Went together easily and works great. The build quality and engineering of this device are impressive. 

Very secure. Very stable.

One problem: I can't get it out of my receiver. I've loosened the bolt but it still won't budge. Suggestions?


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Sorry I don't know the answer to your question KRob.

But I've been using my 1UP for the past 2 months and I'm still in love with it. I use it to transport my road bike as well and I'll be flying down the freeway at 75 mph with strong winds with no concerns.

Going to be purchasing a add-on within the month as well!


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

I got mine last week and this thing is SOLID. I ordered the quick rack but held off on the add-on until I saw the thing in operation. As others have said it it stable. I will also be ordering the add-on soon. The wife's bike:


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

KRob said:


> Just got my 1Up quick rack a few weeks ago and used it for the first time this weekend. Went together easily and works great. The build quality and engineering of this device are impressive.
> 
> Very secure. Very stable.
> 
> One problem: I can't get it out of my receiver. I've loosened the bolt but it still won't budge. Suggestions?


Try hitting it with a mallet around where the metal ball is in the receiver. Mine was stuck when I first got it, but it's all good now.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

moldau94 said:


> Try hitting it with a mallet around where the metal ball is in the receiver. Mine was stuck when I first got it, but it's all good now.


Thanks for the suggestion. I tried that this morning after reading your post without success. It looks like I may have inserted the rack too far into the receiver. Is that possible?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

KRob said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I tried that this morning after reading your post without success. It looks like I may have inserted the rack too far into the receiver. Is that possible?


That's possible, but unlikely since the ball isn't all the way at the end of the part which goes into the hitch. Continue with the mallet and maybe try some penetrating oil like Kroil. Could some water made it in there and froze?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The locking ball only needs to be inside the receiver 1", if I recall. You don't need to shove it all the way in. If it were in too far, it would be sticking out the front side of the receiver (you can crawl under and verify) but I doubt that's the problem. I also take and tap on the end of the piece that fits in the receiver where the security screw it but use a rubber mallet and don't whale on it. I think I'd also take the rack and twist it and move it side to side firmly with the tension wound all the way in on the ball.

J.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Have you called 1Up to ask them their advice?


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## WXYZ (Apr 21, 2008)

I've had the same problem. I really had to beat on it with a rubber mallet and pull up and down on it to get it loosened. I also tried tightening it when it wasn't inserted into the hitch and couldn't get the ball to release then either when the bolt was loosened. Seems like maybe the ball is a tiny bit too small or something and pushes out too far and won't release.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

racerwad said:


> That's possible, but unlikely since the ball isn't all the way at the end of the part which goes into the hitch. Continue with the mallet and maybe try some penetrating oil like Kroil. Could some water made it in there and froze?


No water. I installed it last Thursday night and went on a trip to St. George returning Saturday night. No rain, mud or dirt came in contact with the hitch (a little dust maybe from the trail head parking lot which was dirt but we were almost exclusively on paved roads)

I'll keep hitting it. Maybe try some penetrating oil.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

moldau94 said:


> Have you called 1Up to ask them their advice?


Not yet. I sent them an email Saturday night but haven't heard anything yet. I'll call tomorrow if I don't get it out or hear from them.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Could the locking ball have inadvertently lined up with the hole for a traditional hitch pin becoming jammed.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

KRob said:


> Could the locking ball have inadvertently lined up with the hole for a traditional hitch pin becoming jammed.


Yes, depending on how far you put the rack into the receiver. I put a mark on mine as a reminder not to insert past a specific point to avoid tightening the ball into the pin-hole.

Geez, no matter how I word anything, nothing sounds right. :skep: Anyhoo, my next suggestion would be to try some penetrating out, time, and more malleting.

Good luck.


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## jm1024 (Mar 24, 2009)

I've been reading all of the positive reviews on this rack. I currently own the one car that for some odd reason neither Yakima nor Thule fit a roof rack for, which means the Yakima rack I've had for years is useless. Since I don't like or trust the trunk strapped racks, I'm going to go the hitch route. Luckily I've got a buddy who is a welder and is going to take care of the hitch for me for free. I've been looking at both the Yakima and Thule systems but the 1up is seeming to receive really rave reviews from all of you. A couple of quick questions. I only need a 1 bike set up and I'd really rather pay a bit more in order to have a higher quality product. Is the hitch mount a 2 or 1 1/4? Seems like it can fit on either size with an adapter (I assume) but I was curious as to the "unadapted" size. Also, it doesn't seem like anyone has had any issues with the way this system secures the bike to the tray via the arms over the tires. Has anyone had any issues with this coming loose or a bike falling off at all? As I look at the pictures I've just been wondering how secure it is without having any straps or any other securing type devices. Thanks all!


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

jm1024 said:


> I've been reading all of the positive reviews on this rack. I currently own the one car that for some odd reason neither Yakima nor Thule fit a roof rack for, which means the Yakima rack I've had for years is useless. Since I don't like or trust the trunk strapped racks, I'm going to go the hitch route. Luckily I've got a buddy who is a welder and is going to take care of the hitch for me for free. I've been looking at both the Yakima and Thule systems but the 1up is seeming to receive really rave reviews from all of you. A couple of quick questions. I only need a 1 bike set up and I'd really rather pay a bit more in order to have a higher quality product. Is the hitch mount a 2 or 1 1/4? Seems like it can fit on either size with an adapter (I assume) but I was curious as to the "unadapted" size. Also, it doesn't seem like anyone has had any issues with the way this system secures the bike to the tray via the arms over the tires. Has anyone had any issues with this coming loose or a bike falling off at all? As I look at the pictures I've just been wondering how secure it is without having any straps or any other securing type devices. Thanks all!


Yakima and Thule make some pretty solid systems, but there is too much plastic and steel going on for my taste. I'm hard on my stuff and I live in a coastal area so plastic ends up breaking and steel ends up rusting. 1UP is all SS and AL with no plastic parts. Very solid. Now onto your questions.

1UP makes both a 2" rack and a 1 1/4" rack. The 2" rack is a 2 bike rack with the ability to add 2 more trays (1 at a time maxing out at 4 bikes). The 1 1/4" rack is a 1 bike rack also with the ability to add 2 more trays (1 at a time maxing out at 3 bikes). The 1 1/4" rack comes with an adaptor to make it fit 2" racks as well.

The bikes coming loose has never been a problem. I've had both tires flat out on me during transport and no problems, even with highway speeds of 80+. When I got home the bike definitely wiggled a lot in the tray but there was no way it was going to go anywhere. If you are super paranoid you can always get some velcro straps or something, but I think they are unnecessary.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

I've been using my one up for the past few months with no problems. It's so compact, I leave it on my car full time with just the base rack (1.25 inch). However, I recently discovered I wasn't using the collar to lock down the spring loaded mechanism. It seems to work fine without. Maybe I got lucky. Do you use the collar, or just leave it open (not rotated down to the spring loaded bar).


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

eonicks said:


> I've been using my one up for the past few months with no problems. It's so compact, I leave it on my car full time with just the base rack (1.25 inch). However, I recently discovered I wasn't using the collar to lock down the spring loaded mechanism. It seems to work fine without. Maybe I got lucky. Do you use the collar, or just leave it open (not rotated down to the spring loaded bar).


It's not necessary. But it's nice to have it there for the peace of mind and to prevent any sort of play.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

eonicks said:


> I've been using my one up for the past few months with no problems. It's so compact, I leave it on my car full time with just the base rack (1.25 inch). However, I recently discovered I wasn't using the collar to lock down the spring loaded mechanism. It seems to work fine without. Maybe I got lucky. Do you use the collar, or just leave it open (not rotated down to the spring loaded bar).


Thought it was a clever idea when I found it, but I've never used it. I don't see the need. The rack is hard enough to tilt pulling the spring loaded lever that I don't think it's going to do it on its own.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Just a follow up on my stuck rack. I called 1 Up and they said I probably pushed the rack into the receiver too far and the ball that expands out to tighten it was just past the front edge of the receive so when it tightened it jammed.

He said I could just strike the ball with a punch to get it to retract. He also told me where to look for it (left side towards the top).

Sure enough it was three quarters past the edge of the receiver and jammed. I took a metal punch and tapped it with a hammer until it retracted. 

Rack unstuck!

I had to laugh at my wife because after I told her what I did she went out to go somewhere in the car , then came back in and asked, "if you got the rack unstuck, why is it still on my car?" "Because we're going to Vegas tomorrow and I'm taking the bikes. No sense taking it off then reinstalling.":thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You need this:










1upusa.com :: Buy Now


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

looking to buy a 1up quick rack for 2 bikes 1.25 inch reciever does anyone know of any deals/discounts that are floating around or might be in the near future just looking to save a little coin if possible.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

05kas05 said:


> looking to buy a 1up quick rack for 2 bikes 1.25 inch reciever does anyone know of any deals/discounts that are floating around or might be in the near future just looking to save a little coin if possible.


I've never seen them on sale directly, but I have seen them on eBay or craiglist, occasionally.


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

*ordered mine will post thoughts later*

just thought i would ask before i ordered.

i hope this rack is everything it is supposed to be i just ordered a single rack with the add on for a second bike. i really like the simplicity in its design i just hope its as good as everyone claims it to be as far as ease of use and stability i get nervous watching my bikes rock around at 60-70 mph so im hoping this will be more stable. thanks for the help.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

05kas05 said:


> i just hope its as good as everyone claims it to be as far as ease of use and stability


it's one of the few things out there that's actually better than the hype.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

agree. It's a great rack.

J.


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## Lonecrow (Jun 20, 2011)

How secure is the hitch rack lock wrench fitting ?
I really like the hitch rack but would be leaving it
in place for most of time, its a expensive looking
rack it just says steel me?


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Not really since most people don't know what it is. I leave mine on 24/7 and I park under a carport. I'm also very confident that 1UP will honor their guarantee that they will replace it if it's stolen.

I do remove the +1 attachment if I'm not going to use it with the next few days.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

I don't obsess over my stuff being stolen like some people apparently do, but if you're really worried about it, just get a short cable lock and run it around the rack and thru the chain holes on your hitch. Sure, if they really want it, they'll cut the cable, but I think that applies to anything out there.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

steadite said:


> I don't obsess over my stuff being stolen like some people apparently do, but if you're really worried about it, just get a short cable lock and run it around the rack and thru the chain holes on your hitch. Sure, if they really want it, they'll cut the cable, but I think that applies to anything out there.


I agree 100%. Besides taking reasonable precautions, worrying doesn't get you much in the way of security. I've had mine for 2 years and never take it off.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

*Jeep Wrangler and 1Up???*

I've got a 2011 Wrangler Rubicon w/35" tires and Expedition One rear bumper/tire carrier...Will this rack clear the spare tire? Or will I need to use an extension?


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## Lonecrow (Jun 20, 2011)

Sick and tired of the dum ass roof rack , so I
pulled the trigger on the 1up hitch rack 
ordered it yesterday.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

Don't you feel much better now?! You're gonna love it.


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

anyone know what the normal time frame is from order date to delivered ? i ordered mine on saturday and am waiting for an email with my tracking number. not trying to rush or anything like that i just want to try be around if i can since ups just leaves the stuff on the porch which doesnt bother me as much with little boxes but i get nervous when the bigger boxes get left out.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

I got mine about 10 days after ordering. I didn't get an email reply seconds after I ordered it, either. They seem like a pretty small company, so I wouldn't be surprised by not getting regular mails along the lines of "we received your order / we're preparing your order / we're shipping your order / we've shipped your order and here's the tracking number." You'll get it -- and you'll be damn happy with it!


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

How far into the receiver does the rack have to be inserted?


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> How far into the receiver does the rack have to be inserted?


That's what she said.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

I ordered mine on a Saturday (about 3 or 4 weeks ago) and I didn't hear anything until I emailed him asking when it might be shipped. They got right on it and shipped it out that Friday but I thought it was wierd that I didn't get an estimate on when it would be shipped. I guess it's just a one or two man shop and they get a little backed up. The rack is totally worth it, though.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> How far into the receiver does the rack have to be inserted?


Not sure if this is a late April Fool's question or just a great setup for "insertion" jokes? The obvious answer is "until it doesn't fall out" but I'm not sure that's what you're going for.


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## Lonecrow (Jun 20, 2011)

Just got UPS track email it shipped today I will
have it on Monday the 9th ,ordered on sunday
so pretty good, my etrailer hitch bar also on Monday.
Will post some pics when I get it installed.


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## firebike7 (Aug 21, 2008)

I freaking hate you people!!! Mine is on the way. Money be damned.


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

ordered mine saturday got my ups tracker email today shows it should be here friday .


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## pablobaq (Jun 23, 2011)

I ordered the black one last friday... no email with tracking here.
Should I call them? I want it now! the hitch got in last friday and I installed it monday,


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

Finished building up a 29er...went to load it...dam my old bike rack only fits a 26er...bike rack arm will not pull up and over the 29er wheel....got by with an additional tie down...However interested in the 1up rack..My Question...do I need to order an extension for the 29er wheel size...had seen a picture posted earlyier....one that had fat tires, and also a 29er...had some sort of extension added to the arms...Do the extensions come with the rack or do you half to ask for them...thanks for your help.


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## Lonecrow (Jun 20, 2011)

My understanding when I ordered mine is
the web site product info says up to 29''
wheels, my bike also a 29er, there is
also a picture with the 29er in the rack.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

The new style racks are compatible with 29" wheels.


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

pablobaq said:


> I ordered the black one last friday... no email with tracking here.
> Should I call them? I want it now! the hitch got in last friday and I installed it monday,


i sent a message through their contact us page and had a reply within a few hours. just give them a shout and they will get back with you.


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## yetiman70 (Sep 18, 2011)

pablobaq said:


> I ordered the black one last friday... no email with tracking here.
> Should I call them? I want it now! the hitch got in last friday and I installed it monday,


I ordered my black one last Tuesday and hadn't received an email with tracking info either. I called them yesterday, and they said that they got a shipment in yesterday and would be shipping today. You might want to call and check on the status of yours.


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

I was looking at 1up bike rack at the trail head, talkin with the owner...on draw back he said, was the front wheel would wobble, and he should me, it did...is this the old design or do they all do this somewhat?


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

pedaldown said:


> I was looking at 1up bike rack at the trail head, talkin with the owner...on draw back he said, was the front wheel would wobble, and he should me, it did...is this the old design or do they all do this somewhat?


Well it's just the physics of the rack and the way it grips the front wheel. Any of the aforementioned rival platform racks will have the front wheel moving a bit unless it's one that holds by the fork dropouts.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Meh...*



pedaldown said:


> I was looking at 1up bike rack at the trail head, talkin with the owner...on draw back he said, was the front wheel would wobble, and he should me, it did...is this the old design or do they all do this somewhat?


... it wobbles a bit, but no biggie. There is no way it is going to fall out or bend a rim or anything. It comes with a safety velcro strap for the front wheel if it bothers you. I don't really use mine.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

anthonylokrn said:


> Well it's just the physics of the rack and the way it grips the front wheel. Any of the aforementioned rival platform racks will have the front wheel moving a bit unless it's one that holds by the fork dropouts.


Even if it held it by the dropouts, the bike could still rotate around the headset, which is what it does on the 1up. The only other method would be to secure the frame itself, but that isn't perfect, either.

The reality is that all of the racks made by the major manufacturers are secure. For all of the worrying and hand-wringing I read on the forums, I've never heard of anyone's rack simply failing catastrophically. When there is a failure, there usually is a weak link somewhere and it usually isn't the rack itself.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

racerwad said:


> Even if it held it by the dropouts, the bike could still rotate around the headset, which is what it does on the 1up. The only other method would be to secure the frame itself, but that isn't perfect, either.
> 
> The reality is that all of the racks made by the major manufacturers are secure. For all of the worrying and hand-wringing I read on the forums, I've never heard of anyone's rack simply failing catastrophically. When there is a failure, there usually is a weak link somewhere and it usually isn't the rack itself.


Well that's not due to the front wheel moving, but the rest of the bike swaying. Fork mounted racks have much, much less sway than racks that grip the front wheel. <-- Based on my experience using a Thule Echelon on my road bike compared to my now 1UP.


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## g-t- (Dec 22, 2004)

*Happy with mine....*

I bought mine last month and so far really happy with it. the front wheel wobble worried me first trip but it's not going anywhere. This is a 19" Niner MCR with a Racing Ralph 2.4 and there is no issue with fitting it in at all. Rack folds down easily even with 2 bikes on it. Very very solid rack and the build quality is top notch.:thumbsup:

For the bike theft issue some people look like they are running a locking skewer or hitch lock through the empty holes on the arms but " technically they sould still scoop the frame " so get a good quality chain or cable lock or oversized u lock and secure to frame of the rack. The rack has a lifetime theft replacement warranty through 1 up.Not too fussed as I don't typically leave bikes on any rack out of sight.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

anthonylokrn said:


> Well that's not due to the front wheel moving, but the rest of the bike swaying. Fork mounted racks have much, much less sway than racks that grip the front wheel. <-- Based on my experience using a Thule Echelon on my road bike compared to my now 1UP.


The 1up secures the bike by holding the wheels. Wheels, in turn, are held by the bike's dropouts. The wheel does not move, bike sways around its headset because rotation is what the headset is designed to do. If you change where the bike is secured to the fork's dropouts you still can rotate around the headset because it's still free to move.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

pimpbot said:


> ... it wobbles a bit, but no biggie. There is no way it is going to fall out or bend a rim or anything. It comes with a safety velcro strap for the front wheel if it bothers you. I don't really use mine.


Actually that velcro strap is meant to 'secure' the rack itself to your hitch. You're supposed to wrap it around the rack and then around the hitch chain attachment points. At least that's what the instructions that came with the 1Up said. I guess it's a last-ditch safety feature to keep an improperly tightened rack from falling completely out of the hitch.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

Placed my order yesterday...Hoping it will work with my Jeep Rubicon. I may need to get an extension to clear the spare tire, we'll see.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Disc Dog said:


> Placed my order yesterday...Hoping it will work with my Jeep Rubicon. I may need to get an extension to clear the spare tire, we'll see.


It works great on my 2012 JK Sport S. I did install an aftermarket hitch that sticks out a good bit, but it looks like there is room to work with.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

woodyak said:


> It works great on my 2012 JK Sport S. I did install an aftermarket hitch that sticks out a good bit, but it looks like there is room to work with.


Good deal!! Thx


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

Disc Dog... if your Rubi has a factory receiver, you may need an extension (I have a '12 JKU Rubi with OEM tow package). IIRC the 1up had the same issues as my Küat NV... it will fit, but you may have issues with the bike pedal rubbing the spare and you may not be able to fold it up. The extension will solve this problem. If you do go that route, make sure you use an anti-wobble device on the extension.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

Bacons said:


> Disc Dog... if your Rubi has a factory receiver, you may need an extension (I have a '12 JKU Rubi with OEM tow package). IIRC the 1up had the same issues as my Küat NV... it will fit, but you may have issues with the bike pedal rubbing the spare and you may not be able to fold it up. The extension will solve this problem. If you do go that route, make sure you use an anti-wobble device on the extension.


I've got a '11 Rubi JKU with an Expedition One rear bumper/tire carrier and factory receiver. Yeah I kinda figured I'd need a little extension to clear the spare, especially when I go to 35's...I had to use an extension on my '05 TJ with an old Yakima rack too...No biggie!


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

*got mine woohooo!!!!!!*

mine was sitting on my doorstep this morning. got it mounted with no problems,well maybe one problem/issue but i think its more of a hitch / bumper width issue if i put the rack in where i feel comfortable it wont fold all the way up it hits my bumper.but if i put it in where the ball only goes in the receiver the one inch minimum it will fold up i chose to go in a little further for the piece of mind and only fold it up halfway.this is on my 2000 buick park ave.

i am fixing to load some bikes and go hit a small 13.5 mile mup trail with my daughter so ill post back and let you know how it goes. so far i would say i love it as it is very easy to install its very light and looks extremely well made.


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## 05kas05 (Mar 20, 2010)

*Working great so far*

well i have used my rack 4 times in the last few days and so far it is great easy on and off holds the bikes secure and yes it does have a little wobble but no more than any other rack i have used. the fit and finish is top notch and i dont think anything else compares to it it really is the bees knees man so if your looking at it just get it it is a great rack.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

*1Up: 2" or 1.25"? Also, any Wrangler owners use the 1Up? Help.*

After a lot of looking, I've decided to go with the 1Up quick rack.

Here's the question. My Wrangler has a 2" receiver and my wife's car has an 1.25" receiver. The rack will primarily be used on the Jeep, but it would be nice to have the flexibility to use it on the wife's car. The guys at 1Up say that the 1.25" version is the same as 2" version in all other respects. He told me that the 1.25" version can be used in the 2" receiver with their adapter and that it will be just as stable with 2 bikes and it will be sufficiently stable with a 3rd bike. Alternatively, I could get a reducer and use the 2" rack in the 1.25" receiver, although the reducer will add 6" to the length. I'm initially going to get a setup for two bikes and don't foresee adding more than 1 more tray down the road, so the 1.25" should suffice. That being said, I like the idea and stability of the 2" bar. What do you guys think?

Also, does anyone have any experience with the rack on a Wrangler JK ( mine is 2009)? Does it clear the spare? Can you tilt the rack down and fully open the tailgate?


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

Here's the question. My Wrangler has a 2" receiver and my wife's car has an 1.25" receiver. The rack will primarily be used on the Jeep, but it would be nice to have the flexibility to use it on the wife's car. The guys at 1Up say that the 1.25" version is the same as 2" version in all other respects. He told me that the 1.25" version can be used in the 2" receiver with their adapter and that it will be just as stable with 2 bikes and it will be sufficiently stable with a 3rd bike. Alternatively, I could get a reducer and use the 2" rack in the 1.25" receiver, although the reducer will add 6" to the length. I'm initially going to get a setup for two bikes and don't foresee adding more than 1 more tray down the road, so the 1.25" should suffice. That being said, I like the idea and stability of the 2" bar. What do you guys think?

Also, does anyone have any experience with the rack on a Wrangler JK ( mine is 2009)? Does it clear the spare? Can you tilt the rack down and fully open the tailgate?
*


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

sbermhb said:


> Here's the question. My Wrangler has a 2" receiver and my wife's car has an 1.25" receiver. The rack will primarily be used on the Jeep, but it would be nice to have the flexibility to use it on the wife's car. The guys at 1Up say that the 1.25" version is the same as 2" version in all other respects. He told me that the 1.25" version can be used in the 2" receiver with their adapter and that it will be just as stable with 2 bikes and it will be sufficiently stable with a 3rd bike. Alternatively, I could get a reducer and use the 2" rack in the 1.25" receiver, although the reducer will add 6" to the length. I'm initially going to get a setup for two bikes and don't foresee adding more than 1 more tray down the road, so the 1.25" should suffice. That being said, I like the idea and stability of the 2" bar. What do you guys think?
> 
> Also, does anyone have any experience with the rack on a Wrangler JK ( mine is 2009)? Does it clear the spare? Can you tilt the rack down and fully open the tailgate?
> *


Before the 2" rack existed, the 1.25" with the adaptor was rated to use for 4 bikes in a 2" hitch. That's the rack I have and have used for more than 10,000 miles with 4 bikes on it. It will work just fine with 3 bikes and you will have no issues. That's why I bought mine - for it's extreme flexibility.

The rack, with it's adaptor, is going to be much more stable than using a reducer in a receiver. The adaptor makes it a tight fit with little slop in a 2" receiver. A reducer is not going to be that tight.

The only reason that 1UpUSA went to a 2" and a 1.25" rack is because they were worried that some moron would use the 1.25" rack in a 1.25" hitch fully load it to it's max weight with 4 bikes which would exceed the rating of the 1.25" receiver itself. So they rate the 1.25" rack for 3 bikes even though it works great for 4 bikes (presuming it's used in the right size receiver) and did for years before they made the change for legal reasons. Heck, it would probably be just fine for 5 road bikes if you wanted to add that many add on kits to it.

J.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

sbermhb said:


> Here's the question. My Wrangler has a 2" receiver and my wife's car has an 1.25" receiver. The rack will primarily be used on the Jeep, but it would be nice to have the flexibility to use it on the wife's car. The guys at 1Up say that the 1.25" version is the same as 2" version in all other respects. He told me that the 1.25" version can be used in the 2" receiver with their adapter and that it will be just as stable with 2 bikes and it will be sufficiently stable with a 3rd bike. Alternatively, I could get a reducer and use the 2" rack in the 1.25" receiver, although the reducer will add 6" to the length. I'm initially going to get a setup for two bikes and don't foresee adding more than 1 more tray down the road, so the 1.25" should suffice. That being said, I like the idea and stability of the 2" bar. What do you guys think?
> 
> Also, does anyone have any experience with the rack on a Wrangler JK ( mine is 2009)? Does it clear the spare? Can you tilt the rack down and fully open the tailgate?
> *


I have both. I've had 3 DH bikes loaded on my 1.25" and it was fine. The 2" does have less flex but nothing crazy. Go for the 1.25" and be done with it.

I have a 12 JK with an aftermarket hitch and I can use the rack w/o an extender. There's a good 2 or 3" of room for me to send it out further if I wanted to. Not sure about the factory hitch as that hugs the bumper closer. Yes, you can tilt the rack down to fully open the gate when the bikes are off. With the bikes on you can tilt and get about 1/3" of the gate open.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

Your hitch definitely looks like it sticks out a bit further than mine.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

woodyak thx for the pics...looks like your hitch sticks out a little more than my factory hitch on the Rubicon. Ordered mine last week, haven't rcvd an email yet back from 1 Up. Might give them a call later today to make sure the order went through.


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## ianick (Jul 10, 2006)

Does anyone else use the fat bike spacer kit? I have it installed on my rack and am wondering if I need to remove the spacers when I carry a regular mtn bike? Still seems to be secure when it's on the rack. But I don't want to find out on the interstate that it was a bad idea.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

sbermhb said:


> Your hitch definitely looks like it sticks out a bit further than mine.


Here's some more pics with actual bikes on it this time :thumbsup:


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

^^^ Wow it clears it perfectly!


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

Nice!


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

Just ordered the 1.25" QuickRack with one add on tray. They said it should ship by Thursday. Thanks for all of the input and pics.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Hey guys. Check your bolts. After 2 seasons of use, my friend was unloading the rack when one of the bolts that tensions the arms sheared off (the bolt that connects the tensioned arm to the arm that holds the wheels). The head just fell off and the tension arm spun back towards the center of the rack. I love the rack, but if you've had the rack for awhile, I might recommend removing the bolts that hold that piece on and replacing them with new stainless steel bolts. It's a good thing that it came off when parked. That tensioned arm is the only thing holding the other arm to the wheel. If it came off while moving, it might be bye bye bike.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I had something similar happen to mine. It was on the non-tensioned side, though, so the bike was reasonable safe. I have the older style rack which has the nuts inside the wheel tray; you need to grind a wrench down so that it will fit. It's a real PITA but not impossible. The newer style seems to lend itself more to preventative maintenance.


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

racerwad said:


> I had something similar happen to mine. It was on the non-tensioned side, though, so the bike was reasonable safe. I have the older style rack which has the nuts inside the wheel tray; you need to grind a wrench down so that it will fit. It's a real PITA but not impossible. The newer style seems to lend itself more to preventative maintenance.


Yeah, mine was the small Allen headed bolt that screws into the hex nut inside the arm (arm I'm referring to attaches to the spring-loaded red tensioner lever at the other end). I didn't check to see, but are these Allen bolts aluminum? If so, it would explain the shearing off of the bolt head. I'll have to check, but if they're aluminum, I'll probably be replacing them all with stainless steel bolts.


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## yetiman70 (Sep 18, 2011)

*I'll keep an eye on that ...*

BaeckerX1: Thanks for the heads up. I'll definitely be keeping a lookout for that happening to my racks. Just got my 1up black anodized installed this week ...


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## slowracle (Sep 23, 2009)

Here's mine... have been using it for a couple months. Zero issues!


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## pablobaq (Jun 23, 2011)

Hey Guys, Finally got mine. As everybody says in this forum. The thing looks better in real life.
What great piece of workmanship. See pics of mine below. Black Ano: LOVE IT



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

Disc Dog said:


> woodyak thx for the pics...looks like your hitch sticks out a little more than my factory hitch on the Rubicon. Ordered mine last week, haven't rcvd an email yet back from 1 Up. Might give them a call later today to make sure the order went through.


Disc Dog, let me know how it works. My brother has a new Jeep with the factory hitch and is wondering if the 1up will work.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Disc Dog, let me know how it works. My brother has a new Jeep with the factory hitch and is wondering if the 1up will work.


Will do...it is supposed to arrive Wed. black ano 2 bike rack


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Damn $609 bucks for a rack LOL  Someone is trying to retire quick.. Kinda pricey for a 2 bike rack.


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## pulpwoody (Jan 31, 2006)

i've had mine for a couple of months and love it.


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## NC-Biker (Dec 2, 2010)

The problem I'm having is trying to decide between the silver or black.Going to get the 2" two bike.Price doesn't really bother me,because I always tell my wife you get what you pay for.Even though she doesn't always agree.:thumbsup:


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

NC-Biker said:


> The problem I'm having is trying to decide between the silver or black.Going to get the 2" two bike.Price doesn't really bother me,because I always tell my wife you get what you pay for.Even though she doesn't always agree.:thumbsup:


I went for the silver just because a scratch on the black would be very noticeable.


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## NC-Biker (Dec 2, 2010)

anthonylokrn said:


> I went for the silver just because a scratch on the black would be very noticeable.


Good point.Didn't think of that.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

aedubber said:


> Damn $609 bucks for a rack LOL  Someone is trying to retire quick.. Kinda pricey for a 2 bike rack.


I finally saw one of these in person, and i assure you, it is worth the cost. I paid $300 for a Thule 2 bike rack that is covered in rust after 2 years. Not again. You get what you pay for


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Cool , i guess ill just new a new bike rack in a couple years then  .. I know the concept of you get what you pay for but $600 bucks is a little over board for a rack personally... $450 is reasonable .


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

aedubber said:


> Cool , i guess ill just new a new bike rack in a couple years then  .. I know the concept of you get what you pay for but $600 bucks is a little over board for a rack personally... $450 is reasonable .


$450 is also absurd but hey, it is what it is. And I would gladly pay the $499 for my 1UP combo again. :thumbsup:


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

eurospek said:


> $450 is also absurd but hey, it is what it is. And I would gladly pay the $499 for my 1UP combo again. :thumbsup:


?! lol how did you manage that price ? Its all good, it looks like a great piece but ill wait till the one i just bought breaks or something


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

aedubber said:


> damn $609 bucks for a rack lol


twss,


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

aedubber said:


> ?! lol how did you manage that price ? Its all good, it looks like a great piece but ill wait till the one i just bought breaks or something


The silver is 50 bucks cheaper than the anodized black one. $299 for rack, $199 for each additional tray.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Screw the money... I blow that on parts upgrades every month or so.... especially with two bikes to work on...

Aluminum, no rust, light, durable, keeps my bikes secure, looks cool as hell, works, compact to store... etc, etc, etc... ad nauseum. By far the best rack made on the planet. I own a 2" with an extra module, and I'll be buying the fourth module for it, then another 2" 4-biker setup for the wife's car... including a custom made receiver to allow the rack to mate with the car...

Bottom Line: Spend the money once, and you will never regret it.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

aedubber said:


> ?! lol how did you manage that price ? Its all good, it looks like a great piece but ill wait till the one i just bought breaks or something





BaeckerX1 said:


> The silver is 50 bucks cheaper than the anodized black one. $299 for rack, $199 for each additional tray.


Yup, I'm happy I went for the silver and saved $100. Plus, at the time of ordering, the black add-on was backordered.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Oh, correction. 

Upon closer inspection, my rack has Grade5 Steel bolts, not Stainless steel.


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## NC-Biker (Dec 2, 2010)

> Bottom Line: Spend the money once, and you will never regret it


+1:thumbsup:


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

How do you think this will hold up in the elements? I leave my Yakima on all the time (except winter).


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Hopefully that aluminum is galvanized ...


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Guppie58 said:


> How do you think this will hold up in the elements? I leave my Yakima on all the time (except winter).


Who knows? Never been discussed or experienced...



aedubber said:


> Hopefully that aluminum is galvanized ...


All of the racks are anodized.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

Guppie58 said:


> How do you think this will hold up in the elements? I leave my Yakima on all the time (except winter).


Mine looks like new after a summer and one Michigan winter on the salty roads, car washes, rain, dirt roads, etc.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

*1Up on a 2009 Wrangler JK*

I just received my 1Up QuickRack. It is a beautiful design and appears to be really well made. There is a bit of a fit issue on my 2009 Wrangler JK. I have a Rugged Ridge 2" hitch receiver on the Jeep. Like the OEM hitch, it doesn't stick out as much as the one on the Jeep pictured in Woodyak's posts. As a result, I don't have as much clearance from the rear tire, which prevents me from folding the rack up into its totally vertical position. It looks like I'll either have to switch to a hitch with a longer receiver tube (Hidden Hitch, Draw-Tite or Reese) or get a hitch extender.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

OK fine , you guys WIN ! LOL ... Im going to just return the hitch rack i have coming in and order 1 of these bad boys.. Ill get the add on later on for it. Now, did you guys have a problem when ordering this online? It seems like its not taking mu gmail email account ?!?! so 1up wont let me order !!!!


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I don't remember which account I used but I'm pretty sure it was either my gmail or hotmail account. If you can't order online you can always call.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

UPDATE: Got it working now lol guess it was just acting up

Qty	Description	Unit	Amount
(1)	1up USA Aluminum Quik-Rack 1 Bike Hitch System	$299.00	$299.00
Weight: 30.00 lbs. each 
Total Shipment Weight: 30.00 lbs.	Subtotal:	$299.00
Total:	$299.00

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

Had ordered the 1 1/4 black 1upusa rack and add on tray...What had sold me, I have a sedan with a low ground clearance, pulling into the driveway my thule rack would drag the ground, the 1up design looks to provide better ground clearance, second tray is elevated, I was also tired of removing that heavy son of a b**ch thule rack and leaning it against the garage wall...I'm already happy knowing I can get ride of it...the thule rack paint fades and soon flaked and rusted..another reason I had bought the 1up rack...in case anyone was compairing racks..and as a bonus, the 1 1/4 1uprack comes with an adaptor, to convert to the 2 inch receivers...ordered on line. 4 business days, I live in Michigan. Thanks 1up!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Let us know how you like it.

J.


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

UPS tracking...the 1upusa rack should be N be the end of day Monday, April 23...I'll send N a picture, just need to figure out how to upload on this site.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

Just got my 1 1/4"rack plus 1 add on. planning to get another add on for a total of 3 bikes. I just want to know if anybody here carry 3 bikes in a car that has hitch with rated max tongue of 200lbs. Im just concern since the rack is not as light as i thought to be. specially with the add ons. the total weight of my 3 bikes is around 85lbs. + the 3 racks (base + 2 add ons) around 70lbs = 175lbs. do you think guys the hitch my 99 honda accord coupe will be able to transport this weight with no problem? thanks.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

aedubber said:


> Hopefully that aluminum is galvanized ...


I hope you meant anodized.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

racerwad said:


> Who knows? Never been discussed or experienced...


After 1 1/2 years on my car and a 5000 mile road trip, my rack still looks like new. I am very pleased with this rack and quite a few riders down here are getting them too. All I do is wipe the rack with Rupp aluma guard every few months and that is it. Accessories-And-Rigging/Aluma-Guard/Aluma-Guard---16oz-Spray - - Rupp Marine


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

OscarW said:


> I hope you meant anodized.


You can galvanize aluminum to help keep it coated from any type of corrosion or rust etc .. Was curious if anyone has used it , you can do it yourself too .. Anodized works too


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## Dos557 (Oct 15, 2011)

*Just got my 1up Rack...*

...now can anyone recommend a good vehicle to attach it too! LOL!


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

aedubber said:


> You can galvanize aluminum to help keep it coated from any type of corrosion or rust etc .. Was curious if anyone has used it , you can do it yourself too .. Anodized works too


My original reply to your post was sarcastic  If you had read the 1up site you would have seen that both colors are anodized. And, if you would have read this thread, you would have seen that many people have had their racks for quite a while in some unfriendly environments without any ill effects. You're going to love it. I still feel like I got an amazing bargain on my 1up.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Dos557 said:


> ...now can anyone recommend a good vehicle to attach it too! LOL!


A Subaru may work...


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## Dos557 (Oct 15, 2011)

Nice view, where is this?


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Dos557 said:


> Nice view, where is this?


Colorado. IIRC Gothic Road.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

BaeckerX1 said:


> Disc Dog, let me know how it works. My brother has a new Jeep with the factory hitch and is wondering if the 1up will work.


Finally got around to getting some pics of the rack on my Rubicon. It definitely needed an extension to clear the spare tire with the factory hitch and still be able to use both trays and fold it up when not in use. I am able to squeeze a bike on the first tray if I only insert the rack a little bit. However, my pedal makes contact with the spare tire even in this position. If I'm just hauling one bike, I think I'll use it direct into the receiver with no extension and just put the bike on the outside tray. I had a 12" extension from my old TJ but that stuck out way too far for my liking. So, I picked up this receiver/hitch mount and locking hitch pin and so far its working great, very solid--little to no wobble/bounce.
This rack is amazing!! The guys at the LBS were in awe with the design and function...
Highly recommend this rack!! :thumbsup:


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

*1Up on Wrangler JK*

I have the same problem....my 2009 Wrangler has the Rugged Ridge 2" hitch receiver, which is basically the same as the OEM. With this hitch, I don't have enough clearance to fold up the rack fully. However, instead of buying an extender, I bought a Hidden Hitch 2" receiver, which is approx. 3.5" longer than the Rugged Ridge. I haven't installed it yet, but by my measurements and judging from other pictures that I've seen, the extra 3.5" will be sufficient to allow the rack to be fully folded up and provide enough clearance


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Hauled two road bikes this weekend for a total of 500 miles with no problems at all. Only thing I still dislike about the rack is that it is a pain to tilt it down with bikes loaded.


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

Well, had received my 1 up rack yesterday, 4day shipping time, good...half to admit, the rack is just about as heavy as my old rack with the two tray...that is some heavy duty aluminum...the good news, I travel with 1 bike most of the time....Quality is second to none...black finish is worth the extra cost....I beleive this is the best rack currently on the market...the module design is great, with each additional bike module being elevated makes it even better...now if someone can tell me how to upload pictures to this site...I will take some pictures...I do not understand, when this site wants a URL for the image..


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Mine should be in this thursday , i bought the hidden hitch from etrailer to put on my 2012 jeep GC .. Ill get some pix hopefully friday.

Pedaldown : Go ahead and upload your pix on an image sharing website or a place to upload your pix. Such as imageshack.us or whatever you would use. After that , copy the direct image link where you uploaded your pic(s) and apply it here when its ask for the URL .


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## fish0281 (Aug 10, 2008)

As far as functionality goes, how is this rack better than the Kuat NV? Is the 1up hitch mount aluminum or steel?

...



Dogbrain said:


> crux and wormvine- You two need a lesson in economics. Plenty of people are buying their racks. If you don't feel that the product is worth the cost then don't buy it, that's how it works. Spend $150 less on your Yak/Thule, and then buy another one in a few years when the plastic is cracking and the bolts are all rusted.
> 
> There isn't a single piece of plastic on the thing. I had yakima roof racks on my Jeep, and after a couple years in Oregon most of the exposed metal is rusted. The 1up is aluminum and stainless. In addition to attaching to car quickly, the bikes mount super duper fast. When I get to the lot I take my bike off and throw a leg over and I'm on the trail. When I get back in the cold rain, I don't stand there messing with wheels and straps, just throw it on the rack and I'm out before my friends have even managed to weave the strap between the spokes. Its probably half the weight of the Yakima, with the option of running one bike which is nice for me because most of the time its me and the dog. You can _*very easily*_ take it off, fold it up, and stick it in the trunk so some [email protected] doesn't hit it. However, I had left mine on and someone did hit it and 1up is sending me the replacement part for free.
> 
> In the grand scheme of money I have spent on this hobby, this rack is well worth the extra $150. I bet if I factor in the 10 minutes/trip I save using this rack... at an average engineering consulting fee I make that $150 back in less than 6 months. No question.


I think it's awesome that you feel compelled to bash others via some internet message board - don't take out your hum-drum Oregon weather frustrations on the rest of the world.

That being said, it is pretty clear that 1up has a nice product but it is also pretty clear they are asking a premium price for what it is (utilitarian).To your point about economics, if they made more racks, the consumer would see a cheaper price (i.e., economies of scale); but to suggest that other racks don't last a year is ludicrous. Also, there are other companies that use aluminum, which, btw, can also oxidize (you must know that as an engineering CONSULTANT though).


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Aluminum oxidizes...*

But unlike steel, it oxidizes in a way that seals itself and stops the reaction. It won't rust away and fall apart like iron/steel. That's part of why they make sailboat masts out of it.



fish0281 said:


> As far as functionality goes, how is this rack better than the Kuat NV? Is the 1up hitch mount aluminum or steel?
> 
> ...
> 
> ...


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

aedubber said:


> Mine should be in this thursday , i bought the hidden hitch from etrailer to put on my 2012 jeep GC .. Ill get some pix hopefully friday.


Here's some pics of the rack on my wife's '12 Grand Cherokee with OEM hitch/receiver...fits perfect, looks great! You are gonna love it!


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Looks good man thanks ! How does the quality of the rack feel and the locks on it etc? I have a downhill bike i will be transporting so i need the extra strength :thumbsup:



Disc Dog said:


> Here's some pics of the rack on my wife's '12 Grand Cherokee with OEM hitch/receiver...fits perfect, looks great! You are gonna love it!


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## fish0281 (Aug 10, 2008)

Aside from the general sticker shock, I also am wondering what is up with this:

1up Quick-Rack 2 Bike = $530

OR

1up Quick-Rack ($300) + 1up Quick-Rack Add-on ($200) = $500

If the $30 difference is due to labor and "it takes only 10 seconds to mount each Add-On," then they are charging something like $10,800/hr and I'd like a 1up assembler job please! Not that $30 is a big deal, it's more about the virtue of it and since this rack is already pricey...


I'm also still curious if anyone can tell me how the 1up is better than a Kuat (NV or Sherpa)... sorry if it has recently been covered in one of the 10+ pages in this thread.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

fish0281 said:


> Aside from the general sticker shock, I also am wondering what is up with this:
> 
> 1up Quick-Rack 2 Bike = $530
> 
> ...


The 2 bike rack is made to fit a 2" receiver ONLY as well as the 2nd bike tray is not an add-on - it's permanent. It's heavier, obviously, than the Quick Rack (48 vs 25lbs). The QuickRack fits a 1 1/4" receiver (but it comes with a 2" receiver adapter) and is built as a 1 bike rack. An add-on can be purchased to make it a 2 bike (or another add-on to make it a 3bike) but it can be run as a 1bike rack most of the time if that's what you normally do. I like the Quick Rack since 90% of the time I transport one bike only and the thing is light enough to be no trouble at all to remove after every ride and store it off the vehicle. I can definitely see myself not being so keen on handling a 48lb rack after every ride and would probably just leave it on permanently.


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## fish0281 (Aug 10, 2008)

Ahh, ok, thanks. That makes a lot more sense. Dang, 48lbs is a lot of weight, but I'm in the opposite boat of most in that the only times I *need to use a rack is when I have more than 1 bike.

Also, it's disconcerting that there isn't a hitch pin - there's a reason everything on your car is bolted together and even then stuff comes undone. That eliminates 1up as an option for me.



campisi said:


> The 2 bike rack is made to fit a 2" receiver ONLY as well as the 2nd bike tray is not an add-on - it's permanent. It's heavier, obviously, than the Quick Rack (48 vs 25lbs). The QuickRack fits a 1 1/4" receiver (but it comes with a 2" receiver adapter) and is built as a 1 bike rack. An add-on can be purchased to make it a 2 bike (or another add-on to make it a 3bike) but it can be run as a 1bike rack most of the time if that's what you normally do. I like the Quick Rack since 90% of the time I transport one bike only and the thing is light enough to be no trouble at all to remove after every ride and store it off the vehicle. I can definitely see myself not being so keen on handling a 48lb rack after every ride and would probably just leave it on permanently.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*well...*



fish0281 said:


> Ahh, ok, thanks. That makes a lot more sense. Dang, 48lbs is a lot of weight, but I'm in the opposite boat of most in that the only times I *need to use a rack is when I have more than 1 bike.
> 
> Also, it's disconcerting that there isn't a hitch pin - there's a reason everything on your car is bolted together and even then stuff comes undone. That eliminates 1up as an option for me.


Let me put it this way:

has anybody on these boards.... or anybody at 1Up ever heard of one of these racks even working loose?

No?

It's not a real world problem. Sometimes, it feels like the bolt isn't as tight as when I first snugged it up (but still tight), but the 1Up suport folks tell me that it's because the ball makes a slight dent inside the receiver. It's still well locked in place.

I've left my rack on the back of my car for months on end, and it never even wiggles in the receiver. No tap-dance, no slop, nuthin.

It's like an old quill bike stem. They only came out if the bonehead who installed it forgot to tighten the bolt.

It's like worrying that a meteor is going to fall out of the sky and take you out. Heck, I think that has a greater chance of happening.

To answer your previous question as to which is better, I seriously considered a Kuat, but decided against it because you can't adjust the bike's position side to side like you can with a 1Up.

If you have seat/handlebar interference issues on the Kuat, you're stuck with removing or adjusting seats to make it work. Also, I did not see anything that would say it was 29er compatible, although it probably is. Seems that it locks one wheel in place in the tray, then you strap down the other wheel at whatever angle that makes it fit.

Also, the 1Up folds down pretty tightly. I keep my rack in the trunk of my A4 sedan (or wagon, if I have my wife's car) and like it to stay out of the way as much as possible. I have a lot of junk in the trunk. Bike gear, work parts, etc. That is what basically motivated me to upgrade from the Thule T2. I didn't have room to keep it inside my car unless I folded my rear seat down flat... and I have two kiddie rocket chairs back there for hauling the kiddles to preschool. Total PITA to move all of that around.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

Anybody here carry 3 bikes (total wt of bikes around 80lbs) with 1 1/4" hitch with rated max tongue wt 200lbs? I want to hear from people here who use it this way b4 i will order my third rack


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

fish0281 said:


> Also, it's disconcerting that there isn't a hitch pin - there's a reason everything on your car is bolted together and even then stuff comes undone. That eliminates 1up as an option for me.


there's a strap for a secondary attachment. anyway, no-one on this 37-page thread has ever reported the bolt coming loose.


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## Disc Dog (Mar 31, 2012)

aedubber said:


> Looks good man thanks ! How does the quality of the rack feel and the locks on it etc? I have a downhill bike i will be transporting so i need the extra strength :thumbsup:


This thing is very solid!! you will not be disappointed...once its locked on it doesn't move. The bars that lock onto the wheels do not loosen up at all while driving. Plus the best part, it comes fully assembled ready to go!! Can't go wrong with this rack...Will be putting it to the test in June with a trip from LA to IN, hauling two bikes on the GC.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cebu Boy said:


> Anybody here carry 3 bikes (total wt of bikes around 80lbs) with 1 1/4" hitch with rated max tongue wt 200lbs? I want to hear from people here who use it this way b4 i will order my third rack


I think you have to pay attention to the hitch rating - and that's the problem. But I believe the 80lbs is well within the weight rating of the 1.25" receiver, is it not?

However, I do routinely carry 4 bikes on my 1 1/4" version mounted in a 2" hitch for 2500 mile trips. The rack will do it and was rated to do that for years until they came out with the 2" one. It's the hitch receiver that's the issue. That has been with 4 30lb mountain bikes as well as 4 road bikes.

J.


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## irv_usc (Mar 16, 2011)

Cebu Boy said:


> Anybody here carry 3 bikes (total wt of bikes around 80lbs) with 1 1/4" hitch with rated max tongue wt 200lbs? I want to hear from people here who use it this way b4 i will order my third rack


I think this also depends on your car.

With just two racks and two bikes on my car with a 200 lb tongue weight, the rear end of my car sags pretty far. With a 3rd rack and bike it would definitely be dragging.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Scheduled Delivery:
Thursday, 04/26/2012, By End of Day
Last Location:
Arrived - Secaucus, NJ, United States, Wednesday, 04/25/2012

Damn the anticipation ! LOL .... I will be putting my rack to use this weekend  Ill report back with an update on how well it did.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

irv_usc said:


> I think this also depends on your car.
> 
> With just two racks and two bikes on my car with a 200 lb tongue weight, the rear end of my car sags pretty far. With a 3rd rack and bike it would definitely be dragging.


what car do you have? i have 99 accord coupe v6 but not sure whats the max load in the back (trunk). 85lbs for 3 bikes + 65lbs for the 3 bike trays. total 150lbs is still under the tongue weight limit but the rack will stick out about 36" and i think this will make the load heavier than 150lbs due to some leverage force. most of the time the driving distance to the trails around my area is about 30-45mins.

need any input before i will order my 3rd bike tray. thanks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cebu Boy said:


> what car do you have? i have 99 accord coupe v6 but not sure whats the max load in the back (trunk). 85lbs for 3 bikes + 65lbs for the 3 bike trays. total 150lbs is still under the tongue weight limit but the rack will stick out about 36" and i think this will make the load heavier than 150lbs due to some leverage force. most of the time the driving distance to the trails around my area is about 30-45mins.
> 
> need any input before i will order my 3rd bike tray. thanks.


Call 1UpUSA. They have looked at receiver and receiver specs and have translated them into specs for their racks. Receiver specs are pretty nailed down into Class 1, 2 and 3 so that shouldn't be an issue.

Two years ago, they only used to sell the version that is now the 1.25" version that accepts the 2" adaptor. That was used for both 1.25 and 2" receivers and for 1 to 4 bikes. They limited that to 3 bikes for the 1.25" version and then started selling the 2" version for 4 bikes simply because of the receiver specs and they were catching heat from their competition who claimed it was dangerous to put 4 bikes on the 1.25" receiver. That's probably correct, but it's on the user anyhow to understand their receiver spec and load the rack accordingly.

But, you'll notice, that there is nothing stopping you mechanically from adding additional kits as long as you want (although quickly it becomes ridiculous).

So, ask 1UpUSA. They'll tell you what the rating on the receiver needs to be to take 3 bikes with a 1.25" rack and receiver. You'll be fine with that and I'd not worry about it at all since both the rack and the hitch have more than ample safety margins since both mfgs are going to have covered themselves in the event that someone overloads things.

FWIW, I've had the 1.25" version that was marketed for both 1.25 and 2" receivers with up to 4 bikes at a total of 250lbs in a 2" hitch. It's the exact same rack that is today sold only for 3 bikes in a 1.25" hitch. I routinely and annually use it for a 2500 mile round trip family bike trip with 4 bikes on it at 80+mph highway speeds back and forth from Minnesota to Colorado. It's been fine and it works great. The rack would be even better with 3 bikes and it would be well below it's capabilities.

The total answer will be the receiver on your car. That has a hard and fast spec that it has to meet (probably Class 1). If it meets that, and you for peace of mind should call that mfg or at least verify the spec and then verify it with 1UpUSA, you will be just fine.

As for your vehicle, how it's suspension is set up is probably more of an issue - but I'd be surprised if it doesn't work ok. 1UpUSA has a money back guarantee so order the extra kit and try it with the three bikes. If it's fine, keep it. If not, send it back.

J.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

"Call 1UpUSA. They have looked at receiver and receiver specs and have translated them into specs for their racks. Receiver specs are pretty nailed down into Class 1, 2 and 3 so that shouldn't be an issue. "

It's not just the receiver specs that matter. A lot of people are putting these receivers on unibody car frames. Personally, my application is a Subaru forester and my hitch RECEIVER is rated at 400lbs but the Forester's flimsy unibody is only rated for 200lbs tongue weight. Weakest link in the chain kind of thing. Everyone should be sure to check their particular vehicle's rating for this. Calling 1 Up to verify is a good idea.


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## swan3609 (Oct 28, 2006)

campisi said:


> "Call 1UpUSA. They have looked at receiver and receiver specs and have translated them into specs for their racks. Receiver specs are pretty nailed down into Class 1, 2 and 3 so that shouldn't be an issue. "
> 
> It's not just the receiver specs that matter. A lot of people are putting these receivers on unibody car frames. Personally, my application is a Subaru forester and my hitch RECEIVER is rated at 300lbs but the Forester's flimsy unibody is only rated for 200lbs tongue weight. Weakest link in the chain kind of thing. Everyone should be sure to check their particular vehicle's rating for this. Calling 1 Up to verify is a good idea.


This is my issue.. I want to put a hitch on my 01 Forester and I have actually found a 2" hitch for it but of course I am dealing with the unibody of the Forester as the weakest link.. And for the record, I am not going to use the 2" for anything major.. I have just owned trucks, and a Expedition for while and every accessory that I own is all 2 inch, I am not about to stick any of my bike racks into a 1 1/4 to 2" adaptor..

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

fish0281 said:


> Also, it's disconcerting that there isn't a hitch pin - there's a reason everything on your car is bolted together and even then stuff comes undone. That eliminates 1up as an option for me.


Um. You're not towing with it. There are no horizontal loads pulling the rack away from the vehicle. There's only downward force. To put it in perspective for you...I did a dumbass thing the other day. I took my 1up off (both trays at once instead of 1 at a time) when moving to get in and out of my SUV hatch easier. In my haste I put the rack back on with 2 trays at once and forgot to tighten the expander bolt. I drove around for 2 days with it like this (including 1 highway drive) before I ever needed to use it to put a bike on. When I went to put the bike on I noticed it was wobbling all over the place. I exclaimed "OH SH*T!" and counted my blessings it never flew out of my hitch, then hastily tightened that bolt. The point of this story is, even just sitting in there completely loose without bikes on it, it never moved. It didn't even slide a mm.

You obviously could never pull a trailer/boat/etc on this type of interface, but it works just fine for a bike rack. It also eliminates any vertical and side to side movement.


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## fish0281 (Aug 10, 2008)

The fact that the primary load isn't in the direction of fitment doesn't matter - when you throw in all the vibration, loads are constantly being translated in every direction. Go take a look at a product that goes through a packaging test on a shaker table, things break/bend/scratch where you would never believe.

Also, I get it that nobody on this 37 page has had one fall out... but someone please tell me why you would *not* have a hitch pin incorporated into the design? It's cheap, simple, and fail safe. Sure, you can strap the rack to the car, but that won't keep the thing off the pavement if/when it does come loose.

Someone else mentioned meteors - does this rack incorporate meteor protection? :thumbsup: I guess I just don't have the undying affection for this product like most everyone else here. I think it is better than the majority of the racks out there (in a number of ways).



BaeckerX1 said:


> Um. You're not towing with it. There are no horizontal loads pulling the rack away from the vehicle. There's only downward force. To put it in perspective for you...I did a dumbass thing the other day. I took my 1up off (both trays at once instead of 1 at a time) when moving to get in and out of my SUV hatch easier. In my haste I put the rack back on with 2 trays at once and forgot to tighten the expander bolt. I drove around for 2 days with it like this (including 1 highway drive) before I ever needed to use it to put a bike on. When I went to put the bike on I noticed it was wobbling all over the place. I exclaimed "OH SH*T!" and counted my blessings it never flew out of my hitch, then hastily tightened that bolt. The point of this story is, even just sitting in there completely loose without bikes on it, it never moved. It didn't even slide a mm.
> 
> You obviously could never put a trailer/boat/etc that you're towing on this type of interface, but it works just fine for a bike rack. It also eliminates any vertical and side to side movement.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

I'm sure you can just modify it yourself and then use a hitch pin if you want . This thread is based on reviews not engineering . If you dont like the design / thought of no hitch pin then keep it moving man , it's pretty simple . People are giving you their experiences and it doesn't seem to be good enough for you ... This isn't the only rack that uses no hitch pin design either .. Just sayin ...


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## fish0281 (Aug 10, 2008)

aedubber said:


> I'm sure you can just modify it yourself and then use a hitch pin if you want . This thread is based on reviews not engineering . If you dont like the design / thought of no hitch pin then keep it moving man , it's pretty simple . People are giving you their experiences and it doesn't seem to be good enough for you ... This isn't the only rack that uses no hitch pin design either .. Just sayin ...


Don't take my input personally, it's just a consumer product! Sorry for providing constructive criticism in a review thread... and I was sharing my PERSONAL REVIEW. I do not prefer the 1up because of (a) the price and (b) lack of a hitch pin.

In all other ways it is a great design/product.

I'm sure there are other racks that don't use hitch pins and, don't worry, I would draw the same conclusion.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

I'm pretty sure tho that there has been testing done to make sure it works  ... Trust me , a company doesn't want to be liable for a "lemon" product . I say look past the non existing hitch pin , click that order button , and be happy you did hhaha  .


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## BaeckerX1 (Oct 19, 2007)

The reasons to not use a hitch pin are simple. You don't have to worry about getting your rack lined up perfectly and dealing with getting a hitch pin through a little hole. You can even adjust the rack backwards a bit to clear a bumper (as long as you have minimum insertion). Also, the expander bolt removes shake/wobble of rack. The expander bolt is more than enough to keep the rack on. Find someone who has one of these racks and try pulling it out after it's been tightened. I know you won't be able to. There is never at any point enough force exerted on the rack in the horizontal direction away from the rack to pull the rack out when fully tightened. I don't care if you're knocking the rack for legitimate reasons, or if you prefer another design, but your posts show extreme ignorance and undue paranoia. Your post about loads makes no sense. There's side to side loads and vertical loads. There's never any significant force directly pulling the rack out and backwards away from the vehicle, unless you have it on the back of McLaren F1 accelerating at breakneck speed. Even then, I'm sure the expander bolt would hold fast.

If your post about loads was true, when I forgot to tighten it, my rack would have come out when I was driving because it was just sitting in there, no hitch pin or tension.



fish0281 said:


> Don't take my input personally, it's just a consumer product! Sorry for providing constructive criticism in a review thread... and I was sharing my PERSONAL REVIEW. I do not prefer the 1up because of (a) the price and (b) lack of a hitch pin.


And how can you post a PERSONAL REVIEW, when you don't even own the product? :madman:


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

fish0281 said:


> ...
> Also, I get it that nobody on this 37 page has had one fall out... but someone please tell me why you would *not* have a hitch pin incorporated into the design? It's cheap, simple, and fail safe.


... much like, the ball lock that is already on there.

The reason not to put it on is because it is unnecessary. Also, drilling a hole through the shaft can weaken it, not that this is seeing those kinds of forces. It also makes it harder to install and remove. Pins are a PITA. You have to fumble around with them to get everything lined up. This thing with the ball lock. You just jam it in the receiver and snug it down. Set and forget.

Also, I don't think you could add a pin to it if you wanted. The big locking bolt goes down the middle of the receiver shaft. Probably that's another reason why it isn't there.

Really, take a real look at this thing and it will all make sense. It isn't going anywhere. It makes a brick shizhouse look like Ikea furniture. You can hang a kid's tire swing off this thing and put 5 kids on it.

But, up to you. I just think you are dismissing it for no good reason.



BaeckerX1 said:


> .... Find someone who has one of these racks and try pulling it out after it's been tightened.


For that matter, try tightening it just a little tiny bit and see if you can take it out. I'll bet you can't. Sucker's wedged the F' in there pretty dang good.



BaeckerX1 said:


> And how can you post a PERSONAL REVIEW, when you don't even own the product? :madman:


Srsly. :madman::madman:


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

fish0281 said:


> As far as functionality goes, how is this rack better than the Kuat NV? Is the 1up hitch mount aluminum or steel?


Modular design (can use only 1) and you can easily detach it, fold, and store in trunk.

And, yes, it is great not to have the hitch pin. Rock solid attachment as it is - and for the paranoid one can strap it up to the hitch, if so inclined. I lock the bikes with a cable, pass it through the hitch proper. That is a fail safe as well, but I ride with it for a long time now, I am really not concerned about it even loosening up, much less falling out.


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## rz79 (Jan 19, 2011)

Just ordered mine! Woot!


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

swan3609 said:


> This is my issue.. I want to put a hitch on my 01 Forester and I have actually found a 2" hitch for it but of course I am dealing with the unibody of the Forester as the weakest link.. And for the record, I am not going to use the 2" for anything major.. I have just owned trucks, and a Expedition for while and every accessory that I own is all 2 inch, I am not about to stick any of my bike racks into a 1 1/4 to 2" adaptor..
> 
> Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk


I emailed 1up and this is their reply.

Hi, Just wondering if my 99 Honda Accord 2door coupe can carry 3 bikes. It has 1 1/4" hitch rated max 200lbs load. And also how far does the bike rack stick out from the tip of the hitch to the 3rd bike trays? Thank you.

Yes, it will hold 1 Quik-Rack and 2 add-on. It will be about 36" sticking out.

I wonder if the rack with 3 bikes fell off from my car because its too heavy if 1up will cover the damage. of course this is assuming that my hitch was installed properly from U-haul.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Why should they? It's your car.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

racerwad said:


> Why should they? It's your car.


+1.

If the rack itself failed, then 1UP will probably reimburse. If your hitch failed, then it's the hitch manufacture, but most likely SOL.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

racerwad said:


> Why should they? It's your car.


Im not trying to argue. Just want to confirm. So no use of asking them if its ok to use with my set up and give them my info car and hitch tongue wt. So basically use at your own risk.


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Cebu Boy said:


> Im not trying to argue. Just want to confirm. So no use of asking them if its ok to use with my set up and give them my info car and hitch tongue wt. So basically use at your own risk.


I mean the numbers are all there...

Your hitch is rated at 200 lbs. tongue weight. Three 1UP racks will be ~65 lbs, so if all three of your bikes are under 45 lbs each...you should be golden. Now it's up to your own risk whether you want to be that close to the max tongue weight. I would mainly worry about dips that would cause the whole rack to bounce...using a tie down strap would help a lot.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I think you are over thinking this. If the hitch is made for the specific car, then the hitch manufacturer is setting it up for a particular spec (Class 1, Class 2 etc...). Whatever that is, it will meet it when mounted properly on that particular car. It is then up to you, as the owner, to make sure you don't tow more than the hitch can take or put more tongue weight on the hitch that it's rated for.

Either way, even on a Class 1 hitch, the vertical tension/compression spec is 2500 lbs. Here is the full SAE spec on trailer hitches:

http://expediter.com/natm pdf folder/B folder/B3 2-SAE J684.pdf

Basically, you have nothing to worry about vis a vis your car. If they rate it as a class 1 hitch (lightest duty), it should be fine - the hitch, your car, and your rack.

J.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Just had mine come in today, took it out of the box , WOW i must say , you guys werent kidding about the quality and design of this things. So simple , clean , effective, and just what i needed. I DEF made the right move and another great investment with this thing. I am VERY glad i listened to you guys and pulled the trigger on this rack..

Ill try and get some pix up tomorrow afternoon .


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Cebu Boy said:


> I... So basically use at your own risk.


Isn't that what being an adult is all about? Being responsible and aware of whatever it is you're getting into?


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

JohnJ80 said:


> I think you are over thinking this. If the hitch is made for the specific car, then the hitch manufacturer is setting it up for a particular spec (Class 1, Class 2 etc...). Whatever that is, it will meet it when mounted properly on that particular car. It is then up to you, as the owner, to make sure you don't tow more than the hitch can take or put more tongue weight on the hitch that it's rated for.
> 
> Either way, even on a Class 1 hitch, the vertical tension/compression spec is 2500 lbs. Here is the full SAE spec on trailer hitches:
> 
> ...


thanks JohnJ80. if i base the max tongue weight of my hitch and the total weight of my load i should be ok. i was just worried about the rack that will stick out about 36". anyways i guess i should not think too much


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

racerwad said:


> Isn't that what being an adult is all about? Being responsible and aware of whatever it is you're getting into?


Not really. Not everybody is a structural engineer, and potential liability of dropping a heavy loaded item in front of another car on freeway is quite severe.

Better to ask some professional advice on occasion. Da intrawebz do not count.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

anthonylokrn said:


> I mean the numbers are all there...
> 
> Your hitch is rated at 200 lbs. tongue weight. Three 1UP racks will be ~65 lbs, so if all three of your bikes are under 45 lbs each...you should be golden. Now it's up to your own risk whether you want to be that close to the max tongue weight. I would mainly worry about dips that would cause the whole rack to bounce...using a tie down strap would help a lot.


yeah i was worried about that too "dips" and "close to the max tongue weight". anyways i guess i should not think too much and just go for it and order the 3rd tray  thanks for the input.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

Axe said:


> Not really. Not everybody is a structural engineer, and potential liability of dropping a heavy loaded item in front of another car on freeway is quite severe.
> 
> Better to ask some professional advice on occasion. Da intrawebz do not count.


Thanks Axe. your right not only the bikes or the racks will be damage but the danger of another car behind me if and when it happens. just want to make sure for the safety for eveybody on the road.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Ok so , this thing is really too easy to install lol, put on and off, and easily store :thumbsup: Once you have it locked in , its NOT going anywhere end of story . Love everything about this rack and so glad i didnt go with another brand .

Everything works very smoothly with this unit, and its well engineered . Here are a few pics i took to hold my bike, and my bike is extremely heavy and it wasnt budging . 40lbs +


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cebu Boy said:


> yeah i was worried about that too "dips" and "close to the max tongue weight". anyways i guess i should not think too much and just go for it and order the 3rd tray  thanks for the input.


Here's 4 bikes on the rack that was sold to handle 4 then and 3 now. This is in a 2" receiver.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

Picture looks good. I guess i was worried more the part where my hitch attached to my car that will become loose or bent than the rack itself. Rack is rock solid.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

Cebu Boy said:


> Picture looks good. I guess i was worried more the part where my hitch attached to my car that will become loose or bent than the rack itself. Rack is rock solid.


Valid concern Cebu Boy. Hitch manufacturers use the same hitch for lots of different cars but not all cars can handle the same tongue weight. The manufacturer states this on it's website - just because the hitch itself can handle XXXlbs of tongue weight, and it fits on your car, doesn't mean that your car was designed and rated to handle XXXlbs of tongue weight. It's incumbent upon you to determine that.

My Forester itself is rated for 200lbs tongue weight while the hitch on it is a class III rated for 400lbs tongue weight. I would NEVER think about approaching 400lbs not because the hitch couldn't handle it but my car couldn't handle it. The hitch is WAY overkill but I wanted a 2" receiver and believe it or not it was cheaper than a class II 1 1/4".

Features of my hitch pulled off the hitch manufacturer's website:
- Round tube main body
- *Gross Trailer Weights (GTW) & Tongue Weights (TW) vary by application.*
- *Never exceed vehicle weight rating.*
- Hitch Ball & Ball Mount sold separately.
- Limited Lifetime Warranty to original purchaser.

I wouldn't worry about anything less than a 4 bike rack fully loaded with DH bikes on a car chassis (SUV or Truck would be no problem), practicality everything below that will be fine.


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## swan3609 (Oct 28, 2006)

campisi said:


> Valid concern Cebu Boy. Hitch manufacturers use the same hitch for lots of different cars but not all cars can handle the same tongue weight. The manufacturer states this on it's website - just because the hitch itself can handle XXXlbs of tongue weight, and it fits on your car, doesn't mean that your car was designed and rated to handle XXXlbs of tongue weight. It's incumbent upon you to determine that.
> 
> My Forester itself is rated for 200lbs tongue weight while the hitch on it is a class III rated for 400lbs tongue weight. I would NEVER think about approaching 400lbs not because the hitch couldn't handle it but my car couldn't handle it. The hitch is WAY overkill but I wanted a 2" receiver and believe it or not it was cheaper than a class II 1 1/4".
> 
> ...


What year forester do you have? And what hitch do you have? I have a 01 and found a 2 inch hitch that I want to put on. I just haven't seen any of the older foresters with 2 inchers on them.

Sent from my mobile telephone.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

My Forester is an '11. I think I paid less than the current price for it:

Amazon.com: Curt Manufacturing 13147 Class III Receiver: Automotive

ETA: According to Curt, the one above won't fit your '01 Forester. They only have Class II hitches for the '01.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Here's 4 bikes on the rack that was sold to handle 4 then and 3 now. This is in a 2" receiver.


And judging by my add on tray - they have also beefed up the add on. I would guess for stiffness, not so much for ultimate strength.


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## swan3609 (Oct 28, 2006)

campisi said:


> My Forester is an '11. I think I paid less than the current price for it:
> 
> Amazon.com: Curt Manufacturing 13147 Class III Receiver: Automotive
> 
> ETA: According to Curt, the one above won't fit your '01 Forester. They only have Class II hitches for the '01.


I know that it won't. A while back I had found one bolt on hitch for my car that was a 2" receiver but was still rated class II. I don't care about the towing capacity or the class of the hitch. The most I will ever use it for is 2 bikes on a rack as I already have a roof rack on my car. I am going for the low cost shuttle and road trip car.

Sent from my mobile telephone.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

fish0281 said:


> Also, it's disconcerting that there isn't a hitch pin - there's a reason everything on your car is bolted together and even then stuff comes undone. That eliminates 1up as an option for me.


I too was of that logic last season when I was looking at racks (always thinking the worst lol). But I am glad I bought the 1up 2 bike combo last year. I just couldn't stomach paying a little less or even the same in some instances for the Thule/Yakima/Kuat steel garbage offerings at the time. Mine still looks new, operates flawlessly, and never had a problem with mine. And always get numerous comments/questions at the trail head parking lot about it. :thumbsup:

But to make me sleep better at night, I have a Kryptonite mini U-lock going thru the rack and the hitch metal loop, so even if the locking bolt ever fails, the rack isn't going to slide out anywhere, there's basically less than an inch of leeway with this, and still safely inserted in my hitch.

And disregard the red strap, no longer in use.


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## MondoRock (Jan 9, 2011)

*Color?*

I'm thinking about ordering one of these racks soon, single quick rack, but can't decide between silver or black. I know the black is $50 more and I do like the looks of it, but how does the color hold up over time? It would seem like the various moving parts on the rack might cause the finish to wear off. The rack won't be sitting out in weather much as I'll it off after each ride. For what it's worth this is for a white Toyota Tacoma with factory tow hitch.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Black looks swank....*



MondoRock said:


> I'm thinking about ordering one of these racks soon, single quick rack, but can't decide between silver or black. I know the black is $50 more and I do like the looks of it, but how does the color hold up over time? It would seem like the various moving parts on the rack might cause the finish to wear off. The rack won't be sitting out in weather much as I'll it off after each ride. For what it's worth this is for a white Toyota Tacoma with factory tow hitch.


.. but silver hides the scratches and what will be the tire wear spots. I'm not sure how deep the anodizing goes (varies by mfgr) but it's usually only a couple microns thick.


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## lpeque (Mar 10, 2012)

Hey guys, after browsing this thread, I'm pretty much convinced that I'll be getting this rack. My only concern is, how about legibility/visibility of the license plate while on the tray up (no bikes on) position? I drive a Honda Element and found some pics online that with the 2 bike rack (the one that I want) it looks like it blocks the view. I understand that this probably will be the same with any rack/Honda Element scenario. So, is not so much about the rack itself, but since I'm pretty sure I'll get this one, I'll just ask here. Has anybody with obstructed view of the plate had any "encounters" with law enforcement. BTW, I'm in Texas, did some research, but couldn't find anything other than messing with the license plate itself. Thanks!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

lpeque said:


> Hey guys, after browsing this thread, I'm pretty much convinced that I'll be getting this rack. My only concern is, how about legibility/visibility of the license plate while on the tray up (no bikes on) position? I drive a Honda Element and found some pics online that with the 2 bike rack (the one that I want) it looks like it blocks the view. I understand that this probably will be the same with any rack/Honda Element scenario. So, is not so much about the rack itself, but since I'm pretty sure I'll get this one, I'll just ask here. Has anybody with obstructed view of the plate had any "encounters" with law enforcement. BTW, I'm in Texas, did some research, but couldn't find anything other than messing with the license plate itself. Thanks!


Nope.

Here people even often don't put on a front plate on their car because of looks and there aren't any problems.

J.


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## Acadian (Jan 1, 2004)

I've tried 2 or 3 hitch racks on my Honda Element and thus far I haven't been able to find one that is low enough to clear my tailgate when it's down (and the rack has no bikes on it). 

Anyone running one of these on a Honda Element and can confirm?


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## lpeque (Mar 10, 2012)

Hey Acadian,

While doing my research I found two. I can't link yet, but here they are.

If you Google: Honda element 1up usa - you'll find one on the Element owners club.

If you Google: Kuat NV - you'll see the review from Cracks and Racks, were they used a Honda Element for their test. 

Hope it helps.


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## MondoRock (Jan 9, 2011)

pimpbot said:


> .. but silver hides the scratches and what will be the tire wear spots. I'm not sure how deep the anodizing goes (varies by mfgr) but it's usually only a couple microns thick.


Thanks for your input! Decided to place an order for Silver. Maybe I'll get lucky and have it by the weekend.


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## rz79 (Jan 19, 2011)

BOOOOYA!!!!! Such an awesome rack


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## MondoRock (Jan 9, 2011)

Just wanted to say how pleased I am with how quick I received my rack. I placed an order online Monday evening and it was shipped the next day along with tracking info by email, and I received the shipment today (Friday). Awesome. About to open the box and check it out.


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## zandr (Sep 21, 2008)

Acadian said:


> I've tried 2 or 3 hitch racks on my Honda Element and thus far I haven't been able to find one that is low enough to clear my tailgate when it's down (and the rack has no bikes on it).
> 
> Anyone running one of these on a Honda Element and can confirm?


It does work just fine. You do have to tilt the rack down but it clears with no problem that way.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*You're nearby...*



Acadian said:


> I've tried 2 or 3 hitch racks on my Honda Element and thus far I haven't been able to find one that is low enough to clear my tailgate when it's down (and the rack has no bikes on it).
> 
> Anyone running one of these on a Honda Element and can confirm?


If you find your way up to Oakland, you're welcome to try mine out.

Hey, on second thought. IIRC you can just buy one, and for whatever weird reason you don't like it, I think they'll pay for shipping back.


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## Acadian (Jan 1, 2004)

pimpbot said:


> If you find your way up to Oakland, you're welcome to try mine out.
> 
> Hey, on second thought. IIRC you can just buy one, and for whatever weird reason you don't like it, I think they'll pay for shipping back.


I just saw that Mike Solis has one on his Element - will ask him once he's back from Boggs


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## rgrieve (Jan 25, 2012)

*Do you worry about flats?*

I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road. 
Anyone else worry about that?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

rgrieve said:


> I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
> Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road.
> Anyone else worry about that?


It happened once to me and the bike was fine. I wouldn't worry about it.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

After a recent ride one of the red handles on my 1up rack was so loose it was almost falling off. Both of the two bolts holding it on were extremely loose, and had I driven a few more miles it probably would have fallen off completely. I added some blue Loctite and hopefully that will hold, but when I get a chance I need to check all the bolts on it. Frustratingly, they seem to be standard (not metric), so I can't effectively use my milti-tool to work on it. I don't think I even own a set of non-metric allen wrenches.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

m85476585 said:


> ...Frustratingly, they seem to be standard (not metric), so I can't effectively use my milti-tool to work on it. I don't think I even own a set of non-metric allen wrenches.


I had the same frustration! This is one of my few gripes because I've also had some nuts/bolts loosen up over time and I'm in the habit of checking them every so often. This usually means a run to Harbor Freight for a set of cheapo standard allens. Lame. :madman:


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

rgrieve said:


> I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
> Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road.
> Anyone else worry about that?


Put the bike on the rack, tighten it down, and then deflate the tire (or tires) and see what happens...


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## pedaldown (Jan 7, 2010)

rgrieve said:


> I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
> Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road.
> Anyone else worry about that?


I have the same concern, running tubeless also, I did see a picture somewhere, the guy actually put some hitch pins in the adjustable mount holes on the rack arms between the spokes...if the tires were to deflate, at least the bike would stay on the rack, not a bad idea, maybe just some bolts with nylon locking nuts or some type of strap...maybe someone has had a better idea...please share. Thanks


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## YooperTX (Oct 15, 2010)

I wrap one of these around the back tire and the arm holding it down - kind of a "remove before flight" flag. It reminds me to tighten down the arms, shows me I did tighten down the arms if I get paranoid while driving, and if a tire deflates or bolt works loose it will keep the bike secure.

http://www.amazon.com/Kwiktwist-Gia...1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337519404&sr=8-2-fkmr0


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

You guys are WAY over thinking this too much.. If your tires are going to be that flat , i am pretty positive you will notice it BEFORE it goes on the rack .

First of all you should always check your bike before and after every ride anyways.

Also, its not very hard to check the rack for any loose bolts or nuts , its pretty simple .


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## YooperTX (Oct 15, 2010)

I'm having a hard time seeing the over-thinking here. 

While you are checking over your bike, ensuring there are no slow leaks in the tires (how do you do that, bring a tub of water with you, only ride near creeks, maybe only go on short trips?), checking all the bolts on the rack, and making sure you don't make a mistake tightening down your bike, it takes me 1 second to put the twisty on and I'm ready to go.

Over-thinking or a time saving convenience - I'm going with the latter


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I can't speak for aedubber, but to me it's the profound paranoia the seems to pervade this thread that I would characterize as over-thinking. People are worrying too much. Besides, it isn't like that twist tie is actually going to hold anything on in a moment of catastrophic failure. But, if it helps someone feel better, then it's a good thing.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

racerwad said:


> I can't speak for aedubber, but to me it's the profound paranoia the seems to pervade this thread that I would characterize as over-thinking. People are worrying too much. Besides, it isn't like that twist tie is actually going to hold anything on in a moment of catastrophic failure. But, if it helps someone feel better, then it's a good thing.


Don't underestimate the twist ties. 

Or, better yet, zip ties. That stuff is heavy duty.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Ride where you want man ... I ride down ski resorts . Maybe you should consider something like this , never got to worry about a single thing !


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Even if the tires go flat, the bike may be lose in the rack, but it's not going to come out. 

I did hit a major buckle in the pavement once at 80mph on a 2000 mile road trip with 4 bikes on the back (car probably was a few inches airborne) and a full load in the car. One wheel on the outermost bike did just out of the track but it could not get out of the arms. What I do now, just because I"m paranoid, is put a toe clip strap through one of the wheels and around the tray. There is now no way that the outermost bike can come out under almost any conditions and it's going to be damn near impossible for any of the inboard bikes to go anywhere.

Needless to say, after hitting that buckle at high speed, which had to be way, way out of spec for the rack, and having no problems; I can't imagine that this is anything worth worrying about. Especially for short trips on familiar roads.

J.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Even if the tires go flat, the bike may be lose in the rack, but it's not going to come out.
> 
> I did hit a major buckle in the pavement once at 80mph on a 2000 mile road trip with 4 bikes on the back (car probably was a few inches airborne) and a full load in the car. One wheel on the outermost bike did just out of the track but it could not get out of the arms. What I do now, just because I"m paranoid, is put a toe clip strap through one of the wheels and around the tray. There is now no way that the outermost bike can come out under almost any conditions and it's going to be damn near impossible for any of the inboard bikes to go anywhere.
> 
> ...


Holy carp! What kind of vehicle do you have that 4-bike rack hitched to? I'm surprised the hitch itself didn't bend or the car's unibody where the hitch mounts didn't suffer some serious bendage (if it was a car - if a truck no problem). I've heard of class II hitches getting bent from 4-bike racks bouncing around on Forest Service roads.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

My other rack is a 4 bike Hollywood rack and after a 2000 mile, all on highway, road trip with 4 bikes I noticed the metal that goes into the hitch (not sure if there is a proper term for it) was deformed to the point that the rack leans slightly back. It's 2" steel square tubing with 1/4" thick walls, and it is visibly deformed now (looks like someone took the square cross section and squeezed it to a slight rectangle shape at the end). I was in the vehicle the whole time and there were some moderate bumps (all on highway), but nothing that made the vehicle airborne (though I have been airborne in it, and the traction control system doesn't like that). The hitch is fine, of course, because it's a truck, and the rack is still 100% useable.

On my car (which has the 1up rack), the bolt on hitch is mainly supported by the tow hook, which should be strong enough to take at least the weight of the car. There are also two points where it bolts to the frame, but I haven't looked at how sturdy the frame looks there. If I do hit a bump, because of the leverage of the rack off the back most of the weight goes on the tow hook, and the force on the frame from the rack is almost all upward force. I think I'd be more worried about bending the hitch than the frame.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

To be sure - I've never heard of the frame bending, just the hitch. But, when I installed the hitch on my Forester I noticed that the "frame" metal that it bolts to is little more than some thin sheetmetal. Matter of fact, to install it you had to 'oblong' out two holes in the frame to get the hardware in. I started to do it with a round file until I realized how skimpy that metal was. I stopped and removed the bumper and put the h/w in from the back of the frame rails so I wouldn't have to round out those holes. Much, much less than the frame of my last vehicle (99 Dodge Ram 4X4 truck). The max tongue weight spec'd by Subaru is 200lbs but that is for a trailer and I bet 200lbs on a trailer with an axle acts MUCH different than the weight of a 4 bike rack with 4 DH bikes on it levered out a few feet from the hitch (especially when you hit big bumps)! Statics and all. I guess I'm kind of glad I only carry one bike most of the time and two rarely. My 1up can be configured for 1 bike so I'm not carrying the extra weight of an unused bike position. At any rate, I ain't gonna worry too much more about it.


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## poowilliams (May 5, 2012)

I think I'm going to bite the bullet and purchase one of these...my wife might leave me.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Randall256 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?
> 
> Thanks!


Most downhill bikes have 2.5 tires on them ... And there was a good amount of downhill bikes if you bothered to look at a few pages.

To answer your question they fit just fine, no problems at all.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Randall256 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?


Schwalbe Big Betty and Continental Trail King 2.4s fit fine. Those are some of the largest volume ones, even compared to DH tires, that you can find.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

campisi said:


> Holy carp! What kind of vehicle do you have that 4-bike rack hitched to? I'm surprised the hitch itself didn't bend or the car's unibody where the hitch mounts didn't suffer some serious bendage (if it was a car - if a truck no problem). I've heard of class II hitches getting bent from 4-bike racks bouncing around on Forest Service roads.


It was a Volvo SUV with a 2" receiver. I hit a buckle in the pavement near a construction zone way on the outskirts of Denver on a hot day. Being unfamiliar with the area, I missed the speed limit sign where it went down to 55 from 75. Really felt like we got launched - junk flying all over the car etc... Seat belts all locked.

Everything was fine. Needless to say, I have a lot of confidence in my rack. Good stuff and highly recommended. It WILL hold your bike through some way out of spec stuff.

J.


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## fgiraffe (Aug 30, 2004)

Just received my rack today. Crikey this thing is aluminum sculpture, beautiful. Looking forward to installing it tomorrow, thanks all for sharing their reviews.


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## t0pcat (May 7, 2012)

Well i'm happy with mine pricy yes but also quality in my mind


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## Velosprocket (Feb 15, 2009)

1up rack and extension ordered! The only real complaints I see, are the lack of locks, and wobble. I'm a little nervous about "wobble", but I'm taking my chances!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

What "wobble"?

J.


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## Velosprocket (Feb 15, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> What "wobble"?
> 
> J.


A few (very few) reviews have stated the bikes "wobble" when installed. I'm not sure how accurate that is, I tend to take online reviews with a grain of salt. The positives FAR exceed the bad, that's for sure. There's a video on youtube that also shows the bike wobble too.

Around the 2:18 mark... I'm sure it's nothing to worry about.

1UP USA Quik-Rack Platform Bike Rack - YouTube


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Velosprocket said:


> A few (very few) reviews have stated the bikes "wobble" when installed. I'm not sure how accurate that is, I tend to take online reviews with a grain of salt. The positives FAR exceed the bad, that's for sure. There's a video on youtube that also shows the bike wobble too.
> 
> Around the 2:18 mark... I'm sure it's nothing to worry about.
> 
> 1UP USA Quik-Rack Platform Bike Rack - YouTube


That's not wobble. It's called not tightening the arms down enough. Silly noobs.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

eurospek said:


> That's not wobble. It's called not tightening the arms down enough. Silly noobs.


+1 my 41LB bike sits nice and tight.. As you can see the guy in the youtube video just pushed the arms against the tires with finger weight, so imagine how nice and tight it is when your actually use your hand and close the arms up :thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

eurospek said:


> That's not wobble. It's called not tightening the arms down enough. Silly noobs.


And on top of that, anytime you cantilever anything away from the car or up in the air, you get some movement when you lever a mass on the end of a lever arm.

J.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

No probs w/ mine. Absolutely love it!


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## Velosprocket (Feb 15, 2009)

eurospek said:


> That's not wobble. It's called not tightening the arms down enough. Silly noobs.


I'm such a noob, I don't even have the rack yet, HA! Hopefully it will arrive by Friday!


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## pulpwoody (Jan 31, 2006)

Velosprocket said:


> 1up rack and extension ordered! The only real complaints I see, are the lack of locks, and wobble. I'm a little nervous about "wobble", but I'm taking my chances!


Wobble? One of things I love about the rack, is that there is zero wobble. Did you try tightening the hell out the allen bolt? I had to wobble the rack while I tightened the bolt to get rid of the wobble, now it's solid.


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## t0pcat (May 7, 2012)

There is a very slight wobble if you have to cross something like the railroad tracks near me on a slight angle, but i can not imagine anything that wide attached to a 1.25" piece of anything that in that situation that would not wobble a bit!


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*4" tires.....*



Randall256 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?
> 
> Thanks!


'nuff said...





t0pcat said:


> There is a very slight wobble if you have to cross something like the railroad tracks near me on a slight angle, but i can not imagine anything that wide attached to a 1.25" piece of anything that in that situation that would not wobble a bit!


I wouldn't call it a wobble. More like flex... like the springy-ness in the metal... which the 1Up has way less than any other rack on the market. There is no 'tap dance' kinda slop in there. It snugs up in the receiver with zero room to move.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Also maybe this might help answer your wobble question too .. The rack is tight, it doesnt move once you tighten it up.. The wobble you might see or be talking about is cuz the bikes have forks that rotate.. So there will be some type of movement ...


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

aedubber said:


> Also maybe this might help answer your wobble question too .. The rack is tight, it doesnt move once you tighten it up.. The wobble you might see or be talking about is cuz the bikes have forks that rotate.. So there will be some type of movement ...


I have this rack and it is perfectly solid once you tighten it down. The rack is not moving. It's some play from the forks etc.

This is hands down the best rack I've ever owned.


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## Velosprocket (Feb 15, 2009)

Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Velosprocket said:


> Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.


I got mine today too. I couldn't believe how small the box was. This rack is beautiful.


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## LowLow (Sep 18, 2007)

I really like the 1up rack and think it's much better in a lot of ways than a lot of the other racks I've tried. That being said, the latching mechanism is a bit of a pain in the butt, especially if you have more than one bike on there and you want to get into the trunk. Also, that safety knob thingy is not as user friendly as I'd like. I also just noticed today that you have to use a bit of finesse to make sure the arms don't touch the rotors, at least on my demo 8 with 203mm rotors. Like I said, I really like the rack and would buy it again. I've had it for about a year and these are the only issues I found.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

LowLow said:


> I really like the 1up rack and think it's much better in a lot of ways than a lot of the other racks I've tried. That being said, the latching mechanism is a bit of a pain in the butt, especially if you have more than one bike on there and you want to get into the trunk. Also, that safety knob thingy is not as user friendly as I'd like. I also just noticed today that you have to use a bit of finesse to make sure the arms don't touch the rotors, at least on my demo 8 with 203mm rotors. Like I said, I really like the rack and would buy it again. I've had it for about a year and these are the only issues I found.


1) Don't use the safety knob thing. In my experience it's useless.

2) Move the arm connectors (that pinch the tire) down into a smaller notch. On my 26" bikes I use the 2nd hole from the top and that seems to work fine even on my DH bike. If the big rotor is still giving you issues then move the one for the front wheel down another position.

3) Yes, pivoting the rack with 2+ bikes is a bit of a pain. Such is life. Luckily it's really fast & easy to remove the bikes and put them back on instead. :thumbsup:


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Velosprocket said:


> Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.


Really? Do you mean between an XL 29er and a kid's 16" BMX? Because I've never had to adjust the position of the little tire nubbin things. I did notice that the newer arms have switched to a regular nut instead of a wing nut on the older style. The wing nut made changing position easier but looked ridiculous.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

rz79 said:


> BOOOOYA!!!!! Such an awesome rack


Were you at Palos today? Parked at Wolf Road Woods (end lot).

Saw a 1UP 2-bike rack on a white Fusion.

It only took 2 years to finally spot another one in the wild.


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## rz79 (Jan 19, 2011)

Yep! That was me! Best rack ever


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.

One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.

I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Jerry288 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They fit fine. 2.4 Ardents on both bikes currently and last season I had huge Tioga 2.5 and Michelin 2.5, all fit and cleared without a problem, with room to spare.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Blk02 said:


> I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.
> 
> One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.
> 
> I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.


It is held by metal on metal friction. Based upon the usage of myself and others in real life, I wouldn't worry about it, or anything else you're worried about. I have put about 70k miles on mine have had only minor issues. It's a mechanical device so failure is always an option. The nice thing is the post-purchase support that 1up offers. I need to send my back for service and they have UPS'd me a new shipping box for free-and, they're paying for the shipping to get the rack back to them. And obviously, they're doing the service for free, too.

There is almost no strain on the point where the tire arm bolts to the tray, because, as you astutely observed, it is a pivot. It is designed to move. All of the strain is transmitted to the locking arm. This is the part that uses friction to stay shut. I have kept an eye on mine as it is an obvious failure point and there has been virtually no wear. If there is, the locking bar is replaceable.

As for the hitch pin: 



Jerry288 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?
> 
> Thanks!


Read the thread. This very question was asked 5 days ago and answered with a great picture. In fact, this question is verbatim...


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

I noticed that the expanding ball tightener loosened a bit the other day. There was a little bit of wobble and it looks like the bar had slid out of the hitch by a bit less than a 1/4" (I have one of those collars on it to mark the position). Has anyone experienced this? I take it there's no way to prevent it other than to check it every so often? 

One other caution: The other day I pulled up to a light and a guy in the car behind me told me that the bikes had fallen. I got out and the rack had dropped to the down position as I came to a stop at the light. I must not have clicked it firmly into the horizontal position. So, the moral of the story is always be careful to click it into the right position and be sure to tighten the collar that secures the trays in place.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

I've been going back and forth between the Serpa and the 1up, but after reading most of this thread, I finally decided to pull the trigger last night and purchase the 1up in black. I only carry one bike, so the one tray option works for me. It would be nice if they had a safety pin for the hitch in case the ball tightener failed or became loose as sbermhb mentioned above.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Engineer your own rack , problem solved :thumbsup: .. Nothing is perfect in this world, you take a chance with life everyday when you wake up. Just sayin ....



Blk02 said:


> I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.
> 
> One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.
> 
> I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

sbermhb said:


> I noticed that the expanding ball tightener loosened a bit the other day. There was a little bit of wobble and it looks like the bar had slid out of the hitch by a bit less than a 1/4" (I have one of those collars on it to mark the position). Has anyone experienced this? I take it there's no way to prevent it other than to check it every so often?
> 
> One other caution: The other day I pulled up to a light and a guy in the car behind me told me that the bikes had fallen. I got out and the rack had dropped to the down position as I came to a stop at the light. I must not have clicked it firmly into the horizontal position. So, the moral of the story is always be careful to click it into the right position and be sure to tighten the collar that secures the trays in place.


I check mine all the time. Recently, mine developed a similar problem. I washed out the hitch and the ball system and it seemed to stop loosening up. Nevertheless, I'm sending mine back to 1up for them to take a look at.

My rack, with two bikes loaded, never backed out, even while driving down 4wd trails. But it is disconcerting.

As for your second problem, I think that you didn't have the locking bar in place. I've never had what you're describing happen except when I wasn't paying attention to the locking bar actually locking into place.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

My 1Up rack never loosens. I always check the hitch receiver for debris before installing it. After about 100 miles, I check it again and I've never had it get loose.

J.


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## donkeyboy (Jun 18, 2007)

Anybody have any pics of the 2" / 2-bike rack off the vehicle and folded for storage? I've looked through this thread but did not notice any.

Also, how would the 1.25" version handle relatively smooth logging road (some potholes to negotiate) loaded up with 2, or even 3 DH bikes (say 40lb each). Would the 2" exhibit significantly less flex in this scenario?

Thanks in advance.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> My 1Up rack never loosens. I always check the hitch receiver for debris before installing it. After about 100 miles, I check it again and I've never had it get loose.
> 
> J.


I've never had mine loosen, either and I'm much less detail oriented. In fact, it was just habit that made me grab the rack after lunch while getting into the truck. Either way, it kinda bummed me out. There wasn't any debris in there and the ball seemed fine. Nevertheless, the best thing about my 1up is that I've never had to be worried about it. This is a bump in the road for sure but now I get to try out 1up's warranty, FWIW. Oh well. I'll report back.



donkeyboy said:


> ...how would the 1.25" version handle relatively smooth logging road (some potholes to negotiate) loaded up with 2, or even 3 DH bikes (say 40lb each). Would the 2" exhibit significantly less flex in this scenario?


I have the 1.25" rack and until recently, never have had an issue, esp with flex. That being said, if you don't need the smaller receiver size, get the larger rack. I would. Why not?


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

BaeckerX1 said:


> The reasons to not use a hitch pin are simple. You don't have to worry about getting your rack lined up perfectly and dealing with getting a hitch pin through a little hole. You can even adjust the rack backwards a bit to clear a bumper (as long as you have minimum insertion). Also, the expander bolt removes shake/wobble of rack. The expander bolt is more than enough to keep the rack on. Find someone who has one of these racks and try pulling it out after it's been tightened. I know you won't be able to. There is never at any point enough force exerted on the rack in the horizontal direction away from the rack to pull the rack out when fully tightened. I don't care if you're knocking the rack for legitimate reasons, or if you prefer another design, but your posts show extreme ignorance and undue paranoia. Your post about loads makes no sense. There's side to side loads and vertical loads. There's never any significant force directly pulling the rack out and backwards away from the vehicle, unless you have it on the back of McLaren F1 accelerating at breakneck speed. Even then, I'm sure the expander bolt would hold fast.
> 
> If your post about loads was true, when I forgot to tighten it, my rack would have come out when I was driving because it was just sitting in there, no hitch pin or tension.
> 
> And how can you post a PERSONAL REVIEW, when you don't even own the product? :madman:


I think the concern about not having a hitch pin is a legitimate question. Not being able to pull the carrier straight out of the hitch while sitting in your driveway is not really the issue. The issue is what constant vibration in the hitch will do to the ball mechanism over hundreds/thousands of miles. The Thule T2 succumbed to a vibration issue in several well documented instances where the friction fit sliding bars that hold the bikes slowly worked their way off the end of the main carrier spar dumping bikes on the highway. Thule ended up putting a small screw on the end of the main spar to keep this from happening again. The issue with friction fit devices is that they require you to apply torque to a fastener. The performance of that device depends on you remembering to tighten the device and tighten it to a specified torque. The ball mechanism has no visual indication to tell you that it is tightened, not tightened, or not tightened enough. Furthermore, not having a documented case of the 1UP failing is no indication that it will not fail at some point in the future. 1UP has only sold a fraction of the racks that Thule has and we only recently heard about the recall on Thule T2 racks. Incorporating a hitch pin is a fail safe and a very good fail safe. The only alternative I see is using a U-Lock through the chain holes on the hitch and around the carrier, which several people seem to have already incorporated into their setup. If people are using U-Locks as a safety measure then there are more than a few people with concerns. You cannot eliminate every potential issue but I have three concerns with this rack, which have already been addressed by some mtbr members in the pictures I see posted. Don't get me wrong I love this rack but I think it could be improved upon just like anything else.

1) Friction ball mechanism (fail safe would be to install a U-Lock around hitch chain holes and carrier)
2) Friction sliding mechanism to lock arms (fail safe would be to put a locking bar through the lower unused holes in the arms so if the arms move outward they will be stopped by the rim of the bike.)
3) Fatigue at the aluminum arms where it is drilled out and bolted to the tray due to bikes swaying back and forth (I have read at least one report of the arms developing stress fractures on another forum but the user was doing some overly aggressive driving and on this thread one user posted that the bolt on the arm support bar loosened and snapped. Also, I believe 1UP switched from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt. This was done for ease of use in checking/tightening the bolts, but it was most likely done to strengthen the connection due to the leverage from a bike on the arms.)


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

aedubber said:


> Engineer your own rack , problem solved :thumbsup: .. Nothing is perfect in this world, you take a chance with life everyday when you wake up. Just sayin ....


Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

racerwad said:


> It is held by metal on metal friction. Based upon the usage of myself and others in real life, I wouldn't worry about it, or anything else you're worried about. I have put about 70k miles on mine have had only minor issues. It's a mechanical device so failure is always an option. The nice thing is the post-purchase support that 1up offers. I need to send my back for service and they have UPS'd me a new shipping box for free-and, they're paying for the shipping to get the rack back to them. And obviously, they're doing the service for free, too.
> 
> There is almost no strain on the point where the tire arm bolts to the tray, because, as you astutely observed, it is a pivot. It is designed to move. All of the strain is transmitted to the locking arm. This is the part that uses friction to stay shut. I have kept an eye on mine as it is an obvious failure point and there has been virtually no wear. If there is, the locking bar is replaceable.
> 
> ...


So your rack moved in the hitch? Also, there is a load on the pivot at the tray but not in the folding direction of the arms. The load is from front to back as the weight of the bike shifts during acceleration/deceleration/wind trying to twist/rack the arms around the bolt running through the tray. They did switch from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt which helps the situation greatly (prevents failure of the thin aluminum in the hollow tray) but it does not account for the fatigue in the aluminum in the arm where it is drilled for the through bolt. The arms should be reinforced at the bottom where they are drilled for the through bolt since this is a stress area.


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## wsmac (Sep 5, 2010)

I drive down smooth highways (Northern California...WAY Northern... to Montana, and on another trip past Amarillo, Texas), with no problems for the rack or bike(s) at all.

Never loosened up anywhere... and I do check these things out.

I have put hundreds of miles on dirt roads with the requisite potholes and washboard surfaces... again... no problems at all with the rack.

Just saying that this rack has performed extremely well for me over probably 20K miles now.
Mine is a couple of years old by now.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Blk02 said:


> Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.


Is that what you want? Or do you want to engage in an interwebz debate about a product you don't own and have no experience with in order to "prove" some sort of point (or perhaps to show how smart you are)?

Most of us are not engineers. Therefore, you'll need to rely on anecdotal evidence from regular bikers who own the product. I suspect you're not the type of person whose inquiries or questions can be adequately countered or answered, so this is ultimately a no-win situation.

For what it's worth, I owned this rack and it was flawless. You can go back in this thread and find my initial impressions. I sold it to a riding buddy a couple months ago and he's in love with it. I missed it so much, I just bought another one ... which gave me the opportunity to get the anodized black one that wasn't available when I bought my first one.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Blk02 said:


> Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.


Nobody is defensive. It is you being offensive.

It works. It has distinct advantages over everything else in the market. Nobody owes you any "proof". End of story.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Blatant said:


> Most of us are not engineers.


I am.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Blk02 said:


> So your rack moved in the hitch? Also, there is a load on the pivot at the tray but not in the folding direction of the arms. The load is from front to back as the weight of the bike shifts during acceleration/deceleration/wind trying to twist/rack the arms around the bolt running through the tray. They did switch from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt which helps the situation greatly (prevents failure of the thin aluminum in the hollow tray) but it does not account for the fatigue in the aluminum in the arm where it is drilled for the through bolt. The arms should be reinforced at the bottom where they are drilled for the through bolt since this is a stress area.


The rack didn't move out of the hitch.

I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

racerwad said:


> The rack didn't move out of the hitch.
> 
> I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.


We should also write concerned letter to all bike companies - because handlebars are holding on by purely friction and a couple of pinch bolts. They can rotate and you will fall at high speed.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Lmao !! Asking questions like we trying to sell the rack to him , contact 1up and ask them why they haven't hired you to design and engineer their flaws .. 

This is a review thread for people that own the rack , not a tea time and critique session .. We all shared our thoughts and reviews as owners , so take it how you want .


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## fgiraffe (Aug 30, 2004)

OK, two weeks in (6 trips with it) and I finally found a minor gripe about the 1UP Rack: sharp edges. I've managed to scrape and scratch myself pretty well a few times folding the rack up and removing it from the car. I think I'll take a small sanding block and some fine sandpaper to some of the edges of doom.
Anyone else done this, what grit did you use?

Otherwise: I love it.


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## t0pcat (May 7, 2012)

Some of the questions here seem really silly to me, for all you people worried about the 1 up falling out of the receiver why not just take a cable lock wrap it around the 1 up and thru the safty chain hole on your receiver and drive in peace without all these silly worries!


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

That's exactly what I did! I was never worried about it falling out but hey better safe than sorry. I bought an inexpensive mini-Ulock for $15. Cheap insurance. Love the 1Up


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

I plan to do the same when mine comes in as well. Hopefully, yesterday was the last ride using the trunk rack.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

I have some Cam buckle straps that I had made previously, they are about 12-16" long and I use one looped through the chain loops and around the rack. If the ball does ever fail, the rack will not go anywhere.


Edit: Sorry, did not realize this was my first post :nono:


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

Rock dude said:


> Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
> I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.


1upusa Hitch Mount Bike Rack FJ Review - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

thatdrewguy said:


> 1upusa Hitch Mount Bike Rack FJ Review - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum


That looks good, I just wounder if the rack will still fold up. It looks close.


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## allensta (May 30, 2012)

donkeyboy said:


> Anybody have any pics of the 2" / 2-bike rack off the vehicle and folded for storage? I've looked through this thread but did not notice any.QUOTE]
> 
> Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up. In one pic you can see two boxes, the larger is from the 2 bike rack, the smaller has a 1 bike attachment in it.
> Other pics are with rack in back of my Pilot.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.


IMG_0195 by dbozman1173, on Flickr


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

Blatant said:


> My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.


I noticed you have a blue C-Guide on your bike. I just added one to mine but I m not sure how much it helps. How about yours, are you happy with it?

Btw congrats on the rack, I d love to swap out my current 1up for one of those. :thumbsup:


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

The C-Guide is fine. I didn't have many options on the Mach 5.7, given no ISCG mounts and a pressfit BB.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Blk02 said:


> Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.


Dude, there is a picture of the exact thing you're looking for just a few posts up from here, post #1008.

How far the arms come up on the tires is also a function of the bike's geometry, specifically the wheelbase.

Obviously, I don't speak for everyone, but I didn't find your questions offensive, just kinda pointless  As someone else mentioned, it's not like we can do anything about 1up's engineering shortcomings.

Anyhow, I can't imagine that you wouldn't like it. If you don't, just take advantage of their offer to take it back. You don't even have to pay for return shipping.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Ok you need to seriously READ some of this thread please :madman: , but anyways ill answer your 29er question . My friend has a Trek Rumblefish 29er in LARGE with 2.4 Schwalbe HDs front and back on it, and its PERFECT ...

His tire profile is about as wide as my downhill tires .. The 29er fits and stays perfectly on the stand, mind you he also has his mounted via roof rack style on his bmw .

You need to stop thinking about the ball .. You have to realize the way the rack was made with the weight countering the rack ... You literally need to have the rack perfectly straight to pull it out without any type of friction or force from the hitch .. The weight of the rack offsets its angle when its in the hitch so there is some force applied inside the hitch .. Hopefully you can kinda understand what im trying to say ...:thumbsup:


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

*Jeep Wrangler JKU*

I mounted ours up today. As others have said it's aluminum sculpture.

To be honest it's heavier than I expected, but it is solid.

My tail lights are too obscured, so I'm going to have to find some kind of strap on lights...

More pics here: 2011 Detonator Yellow Unlimited - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum

But here's one with the family set-up with a 29er, 26er, 24er and 20er


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

Nice setup J Westy!!

My 1up rack arrived today and I must say, it's impressive!! The black looks great on the back of my civic. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a hitch mount rack.


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## donkeyboy (Jun 18, 2007)

allensta said:


> Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up...


Thanks for that. Just what I was looking for. Looks so much more compact than the other companies' offerings.



racerwad said:


> ...if you don't need the smaller receiver size, get the larger rack. I would. Why not?


Two reasons.
1. The rack will often be used with one bike. It would be nice to just have to handle the single tray rack in these instances (the rack will be installed/uninstalled for each use)

2. My wife will need to install/uninstall the rack as needed, and she's a little worried that the extra weight of the 2" / 2-bike version might be too much for her. Don't want an unwieldy bike rack to discourage her from getting out for a ride.

The above reasons aside, I am leaning toward the 2" version. I think the 'offroad' sturdiness of it outweighs the cons. Any other opinions, especially on reason #2 above?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

It seems like your reasons are so specific, it would be hard for anyone else but yourself to answer. I don't take off the add-on, even though I don't usually ride with someone else. So, I would assume the difference in weight between a 1.25" rack and 2" (each with two trays) is negligible. Shoot, it might even be a draw since the 2" probably has a few less nuts and bolts holding it all together.

I don't know you, but I know people, and I doubt that the rack will be taken on/off with each use. That's based only on my own experience 

I don't think that there is any legitimate difference in off-road "sturdiness" between the two.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

I emailed 1Up about what type of anodizing they use on their racks. The two most common types in the U.S. are Sulfuric Acid Anodizing Type 2 "Soft/Standard" and Type 3 "Hard Anodized/Hardcoat". I am hoping that their racks are Type 3 because the anodizing is much thicker and it will have increased wear resistance. Also, I asked them if they use any type of special sealer to protect the black dye from U.V. exposure. I have seen many black anodized parts turn purple or grey after several years in the sun.

I will let you know what I find out.

*Update:*
I just found out they use Type 2 Anodizing "Soft/Standard" and they use a 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy to make the bicycle racks. They could not tell me if they use a special UV resistant sealer for the black dye, but they did mention that the black anodizing will fade. 6061-T6 is the same aluminum alloy they use to make rock climbing cams, so it is strong. Also, take note that Type 3 anodizing can cause aluminum alloy to have reduced fatigue resistance since the aluminum oxide layer is much thicker, much harder, and more brittle than Type 2.

*6061-T6 is also used for these items:*
6061 is commonly used for structural components, screw machine parts, frames, brackets, jigs, fixtures, base plates, machine parts, couplings, hydraulic valve bodies, valves and valves parts, fuse parts, gears and shafts, worm gears, pistons, rectifier parts, fasteners, hardware, truck and marine components, marine fittings and hardware, electrical fittings and connectors, hinge pins, magneto parts, brake pistons, hydraulic pistons, appliance fittings, camera lens mounts, bike frames, etc. 6061 is used for heavy duty structures requiring good strength-to-weight ratio with good corrosion resistance. 6061 is easily cold worked and formed in the annealed condition. Cutting, stamping, bending, spinning, deep drawing, drilling, tapping, etc. are all readily accomplished using standard methods

*From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:*
6061 is a precipitation hardening aluminium alloy, containing magnesium and silicon as its major alloying elements. Originally called "Alloy 61S" it was developed in 1935.[1] It has good mechanical properties and exhibits good weldability. It is one of the most common alloys of aluminium for general purpose use. It is commonly available in pre-tempered grades such as 6061-O (solutionized) and tempered grades such as 6061-T6 (solutionized and artificially aged) and 6061-T651 (solutionized, stress-relieved stretched and artificially aged).

*Hardness Comparison Chart
(Rockwell Surface Hardness Rating)*
Stainless Steel
Low 50
High 72
Unanodized Aluminum
Low 38
High 44
Type II Anodized Aluminum
Low 48
High 55
Type III Anodized Aluminum
Low 60
High 70


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

*Got mine today *

Here's some pictures of my 1UP rack with a large 29er mounted. 
I got the 2" -2 bike rack.
It is indeed a very heavy feeling rack, just as heavy as all of the top brands.
It folds up like a transformer though making it much smaller and easy to handle. 
I agree with everyone else that it is much better in person, very well built and very strong/beefy feeling.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

Type 3 anodizing is for wear applications (e.g. fork stanchions) and actually has lower corrosion resistance than Type 2 since it has unsealed pores. So, Type 2 would be the "normal" choice for something like a bike rack.


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## John Kuhl (Dec 10, 2007)

All anodize is sealed. If it isn't sealed they forgot
a step. Type 2 anodize is fine, type 3 is in a different
class and is a lot better finish. 

Best, John


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## toofdoc (May 14, 2012)

Another very happy 1 up user. I was even impressed by the packaging it came in, very sturdy. There is nothing like this on the market in terms of build quality, others may come close in functionality. Looks sweet in black too.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I do like the black.
Looks great on the Jeep.


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## toofdoc (May 14, 2012)

Rock dude said:


> I do like the black.
> Looks great on the Jeep.


Thanks bro. If you have a black car you must get this rack in black. It looks seemless, like it's part of the jeep. And when not in use it folds up very easily in the trunk. If you don't want to take it off it's so low profile that it's really not an eye sore.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

J_Westy said:


> I mounted ours up today. As others have said it's aluminum sculpture.
> 
> To be honest it's heavier than I expected, but it is solid.
> 
> ...


Can you open the rear door with the rack tilted down?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Rock dude said:


> Can you open the rear door with the rack tilted down?


No, not in this configuration... it's a compromise in order to tow a trailer at the same time.

But with the summer soft top, you just unzip the rear window.

I haven't tried yet with the rack mounted in the lower receiver.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

John Kuhl said:


> All anodize is sealed. If it isn't sealed they forgot
> a step. Type 2 anodize is fine, type 3 is in a different
> class and is a lot better finish.
> 
> Best, John


Yes, this is correct. All anodizing has a sealer. Type 2 is the most common. Type 3 is usually used on Mil-spec products like Surefire flashlights and can usually only be done in silver and black. If Type 3 is done correctly you can take the blade of a normal knife to the anodizing and it wont leave a mark. The only down side to Type 3 is that it reduces the fatigue life of the aluminum alloy when used in high cyclic loading situations.


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

*Getting ready to order my first rack*

Please forgive me.......as I am not trying to "beat a dead horse."

I am super excited about ordering my my first bike rack, but want to make sure I get that best one for me. I had done ALOT of research but had not even heard of 1UpUSA until I ran across this review. After watching every video and reading every review that there is on the internet about the 1Up, I am 99.9% sure this is the one for me. I just have a couple of questions for those of you that are using the 1Up.

--Because I have a black car ('08 Honda Accord 4dr), I am considering the black over the silver. For anyone with the black rack, is the black worth the extra $50 ($100 if I also get the add-on)? How easily does the black scratch off?

--How do YOU secure YOUR bike(s) to the rack? Cable attached to what? (Mini u-lock, disc lock, etc. --- pictures would be helpful, if you have them) Do you use any extra measures to lock the rack to your car other than the tool it comes with.

--One cable lock I was looking at was connected to a locking hitch pin. Does this rack have the holes for the hitch pin to slide through?

--Has anyone ever had their rack stolen? They claim that if your rack is ever stolen, they will replace it for free. How would they know it actually got stolen? Do you have to provide a police report or what kind of proof?

I probably sound like one of those crazy people that is over thinking everything, but thanks for humoring me.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

John Kuhl said:


> All anodize is sealed. If it isn't sealed they forgot
> a step.


Sorry for derailing the thread, but this simply isn't correct. Read MIL-A-8625. Type II requires a sealer (usually nickel acetate or boiling water) to hydrate the oxide, but Type III only gets the sealer if specified. The reason for this is Type III are intended for wear applications and the hydrated oxide is less wear resistant, altho more corrosion resistant.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

tennisfan76 said:


> ...I probably sound like one of those crazy people that is over thinking everything...


You do.

All of your questions are answered in this thread except theft because no one on MTBR has reported it. That certainly _does not_ mean it hasn't happened. I'm sure that it has. As for documentation, they probably require a police report.

The tow bar portion of the rack (the part which goes into the receiver) does not have holes. A hitch pin is not needed or compatible with this rack.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

duplicate...


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

I've decided to order the 1up just deciding whether to go with the single version plus an add on or just go for the double from the start. I have a 2" hitch on a 4Runner so either will work but it sounds like the 2"only version (double) might be a tad more stable. I don't plan on going to more than 2 bikes so the 3 bike limit on the single doesn't matter to me. I save ~$30 by going the single + add on route. I'm thinking it might be nice to just use the single most of the time and break out the add on when I'm transporting a friend + bike but then again It's an extra step to attach the add on.


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## okiemtnbkr (Oct 8, 2010)

Henrythewound said:


> I've decided to order the 1up just deciding whether to go with the single version plus an add on or just go for the double from the start. I have a 2" hitch on a 4Runner so either will work but it sounds like the 2"only version (double) might be a tad more stable. I don't plan on going to more than 2 bikes so the 3 bike limit on the single doesn't matter to me. I save ~$30 by going the single + add on route. I'm thinking it might be nice to just use the single most of the time and break out the add on when I'm transporting a friend + bike but then again It's an extra step to attach the add on.


The "extra step" to attach the second rack takes a matter of one minute. Unless you're going to be transporting 2+bikes most of the time, just buy the single rack. It will look a lot better on the car when it is folded up with no bike on than the double rack will.

I leave my 1up rack on the car all year long, so it spends quite a bit of its time folded up on the back.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

Sounds good thanks for the info. I was just concerned about the smaller hitch size with adapter not being as steady on bad roads. I'm surprised the 1Up site doesn't have any detail pics of the differences but then again their site is fairly sparse.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

okiemtnbkr said:


> The "extra step" to attach the second rack takes a matter of one minute. *Unless you're going to be transporting 2+bikes most of the time, just buy the single rack. It will look a lot better on the car when it is folded up with no bike on than the double rack will.*
> 
> I leave my 1up rack on the car all year long, so it spends quite a bit of its time folded up on the back.


^ This

I have the older version that worked in 1.25 or 2" hitches. It's solid with 4 bikes on it. I *love* having the ability to only put one tray on and I'd hate to give that up.

J.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

Henrythewound said:


> Sounds good thanks for the info. I was just concerned about the smaller hitch size with adapter not being as steady on bad roads. I'm surprised the 1Up site doesn't have any detail pics of the differences but then again their site is fairly sparse.


1Up does mention on their site that the 2" 2-Bike version will handle off-road terrain better than the 1-1/4". I have the same decision to make and I think I will stick with the 2" because I usually ride with someone else and when I don't it does not bother me having one extra rack out back. Also, I like knowing that when the road gets rough that extra metal and welding is their to hold it all together.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

Blk02 said:


> 1Up does mention on their site that the 2" 2-Bike version will handle off-road terrain better than the 1-1/4". I have the same decision to make and I think I will stick with the 2" because I usually ride with someone else and when I don't it does not bother me having one extra rack out back. Also, I like knowing that when the road gets rough that extra metal and welding is their to hold it all together.


I'm leaning that way as well. I do wish there was a 2" single version but it's not a big deal. I did find some photos from someone else on another bike forum, there are some detailed shots of the smaller hitch version with the 2"adapter and ball mounting mechanism.

Rack installation - a set on Flickr

EDIT: this was the thread on mtbr with the detailed photos I meant to refer to
http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1upusa-rack-lots-photos-small-review-534654.html


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

How well does this rack do being left out in the elements? Meaning I'd like to leave it attached to the hitch all the time, but my car is out in the driveway, rain, sun, cold etc. 

So has anyone done this? If so how well do the pivots etc work now?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It's a simple connection at all the pivot points. An occasional drop of lube would be all it would require, I think.

J


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> It's a simple connection at all the pivot points. An occasional drop of lube would be all it would require, I think.
> 
> J


Don't lube the pivots. They have delrin bushings and the lube would just make it worse over time.

I have ton of miles on mine and I did notice that when I bought a new add-on it did seem tighter. Otherwise, I haven't had a huge issue with mine. I leave it out in the elements year round.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

*Problem with my 1Up - Help.....*

OK, so after having some concerns about my 1Up rack loosening and creeping out of the receiver a bit, I re-tightened it and everything seemed fine. Yesterday I went to take the rack off of my car. I loosened the hitch tightener bolt and the wouldn't come out of the receiver. I tried tightening the bolt back in and then backing it out again. Nothing. It seems that the ball is now stuck in place, essentially locking the rack in the receiver.

I saw on an earlier post where someone had a similar problem, but they were able to access the ball and tap it in to release it from the receiver. I don't have access to the ball, so I'm kind of in a bind. Unless someone has a solution for me, I'm going to have to drop the receiver off of the Jeep and send the whole thing back to the company. Any suggestions? Has anyone encountered this? :madman:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Did you over tighten it?

Can you get into the front side of the receiver (they are often open on both ends) and tap it that way after liberally dousing it with WD40?

J


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

I just spoke with 1Up. They said that this is the first they've ever heard of the problem. He said that the way the tightening system is designed, there's no way that I could have overtightened it. He suggested trying to tap it from the front of the receiver to try to get the ball to drop. So, tonite, I'll give it a shot. I'll keep everyone posted.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

3 questions. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger. Currently have a Raxter rack, and while I like it, having the simple swap from 1.25" to 2" is a big help for me, as we have a WRX and 4Runner in the family. Also, the Raxter is not as sturdy as I was hoping. Lastly, the "folding" mechanism of the 1Up seems pretty badass, as it would enable us to lean up one of the arms to let the dog jump into the hatch. Right now, we have to lift her over the rack and into the hatch area. 

1) How is the black anodizing holding up for people that have had the black rack for a while? I've got a white car, so was thinking the silver isn't too bad, and for some weird reason, $500 is easier to justify than $600 

2) The Raxter has the "auto stacking" feature, where it's really easy to not have seat to handlebar interference, as the bikes have a LOT of back and forth movement allowed and can still be in the rack. How does that work with the 1Up arms. Can you offset the bikes enough to not have the handlebar in the way of the seat? I know the 1Up rack gets taller the further you get away from the car, but that won't help in all situations. 

3) How easy is it to add/remove the "add on". 80% of the time, I'll be carrying one bike on the rack, and this one bike rack will live on my WRX ALL the time, as I ride 5 days a week. 1 day a week or so, we'll be taking both bikes. Is it easy enough to add the add on as I need it, or is it a pain enough to where I would leave the 2 bike setup on my WRX all the time?

-Tom


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

trhoppe said:


> 3 questions. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger. Currently have a Raxter rack, and while I like it, having the simple swap from 1.25" to 2" is a big help for me, as we have a WRX and 4Runner in the family. Also, the Raxter is not as sturdy as I was hoping. Lastly, the "folding" mechanism of the 1Up seems pretty badass, as it would enable us to lean up one of the arms to let the dog jump into the hatch. Right now, we have to lift her over the rack and into the hatch area.
> 
> 1) How is the black anodizing holding up for people that have had the black rack for a while? I've got a white car, so was thinking the silver isn't too bad, and for some weird reason, $500 is easier to justify than $600


Can't help you on this one, I have silver.



> 2) The Raxter has the "auto stacking" feature, where it's really easy to not have seat to handlebar interference, as the bikes have a LOT of back and forth movement allowed and can still be in the rack. How does that work with the 1Up arms. Can you offset the bikes enough to not have the handlebar in the way of the seat? I know the 1Up rack gets taller the further you get away from the car, but that won't help in all situations.


1UpUSA has the same, if not better. You have considerable latitude to position bikes side to side to get the handlebars and seats to be separated. Very easy to do.



> 3) How easy is it to add/remove the "add on". 80% of the time, I'll be carrying one bike on the rack, and this one bike rack will live on my WRX ALL the time, as I ride 5 days a week. 1 day a week or so, we'll be taking both bikes. Is it easy enough to add the add on as I need it, or is it a pain enough to where I would leave the 2 bike setup on my WRX all the time?
> 
> -Tom


I have the older 1.25"/2" version and we carry 4 bikes on it with 3 add on kits. I'd guess that I can add a kit in less than 30 seconds - it's that easy. This is what I really like about this rack - I hate having a rack on the car the protrudes when I only carry a single bike on it. Also, the add on kits make it so much easier to store. I just fold them up and hang them on a hook in the garage. No big deal. Most of the other hitch racks I have are a pain in the tail to store. They are heavy and they are bulky.

J.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

For the guys that got silver, do you wish you go the black? Trying to justify the extra expense. Thinking the silver on a white car might not be bad.


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## MondoRock (Jan 9, 2011)

trhoppe said:


> For the guys that got silver, do you wish you go the black? Trying to justify the extra expense. Thinking the silver on a white car might not be bad.


I went back and forth on this as well. I do think the black looks better but it's $50 more and I worried about it showing wear over the long term (scratching, fading, etc.) so I ended up choosing silver. Can't go wrong either way. Since the black is fairly new we don't know how the look holds up over the long term. If I had it to do over again I might choose black.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

Yea, it's $100 for the 2 bike setup. I'm waffling on that one. I think if black for $500, I would have already pulled the trigger. They need to have a sale :lol:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I have the silver and like it. Here's the deal - if you have aluminum wheels on your car, the silver will look fine regardless of the color of the car. Save the $100 unless it's a big deal for you. Then get black.

J.


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## kreater (Nov 11, 2004)

really, really liking my newest addition to the GTI. Very stealth very easy to use.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

trhoppe said:


> 3 questions. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger. Currently have a Raxter rack, and while I like it, having the simple swap from 1.25" to 2" is a big help for me, as we have a WRX and 4Runner in the family. Also, the Raxter is not as sturdy as I was hoping. Lastly, the "folding" mechanism of the 1Up seems pretty badass, as it would enable us to lean up one of the arms to let the dog jump into the hatch. Right now, we have to lift her over the rack and into the hatch area.
> 
> 1) How is the black anodizing holding up for people that have had the black rack for a while? I've got a white car, so was thinking the silver isn't too bad, and for some weird reason, $500 is easier to justify than $600
> 
> ...


The black model is only ~1 year old, so not sure if that's long enough to really cause a lot of fading. FWIW, my black one is still as-new, but it's only a few months old.

1Up is THE best as far as handlebar interference...not to worry on that count. Actually, with my bikes, it works best to have the bars on the same side, rather than alternate directions. The upward angle and ability to move right-left makes interference a non-issue.

The add-on is just 2 screws using the "special" allen wrench. Couldn't be easier to take off.

Good luck and you won't regret it.


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

*My first bike rack!!*

I struggled with the decision on color, but I just placed my order for the* black 1Up rack and 1 black add-on*. I cancelled my order for the Thule T2 and feel really good about my decision, thanks to all of you on this forum. I am just glad that I saw this review before I went through with the T2. I am having my hitch receiver installed on Saturday, so as soon as my rack arrives it will be on my car. I can't wait!!


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

I was able to free the rack from the receiver. I just jiggled the rack until it came loose. It appears that the expander ball got stuck, so after I freed it up, I put some grease in there. The guys at 1Up were surprised to hear of my problem, but said that the way the expander is designed, there's no way for the ball to get permanently stuck.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Don't put grease on the ball! It uses friction to hold the rack in place.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

1Up suggested greasing the ball. If you look at the design of the expanding tightened, some grease on the ball will not reduce the friction/pressure that the ball exerts on the receiver. Also most of the friction and pressure come from the sides of the bar against the receiver and the downward force caused by the weight of the rack and bikes.


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## partswhore (Dec 17, 2004)

Not sure if this has been mentioned already. So far love the rack, however I have encountered a flaw.

The stainless bolts that hold the cam arm to the upright arms are weak, inherent to being stainless. I've now broken two of them. One while putting the bike on and then another sheared when I tried to remove it.

I have since replaced the bolts with grade 5 plated bolts and nylock nuts. If these bolts were to fail on the freeway it would be seriously bad news.

For clarity the bolts I am talking about:










Check those bolts!


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Well, I hope you're happy. You really did it now!
Thanks to this thread (and the other reviews) I just ordered a silver single bike Quik Rack. I just bought a Ford Focus hatchback, and while I could fit one of my bikes in back, I could tell it was just a matter of time until I messed up the interior. I decided that for my purposes a rear tray rack makes more sense than a roof rack and the 1up racks look like the best choice for me.
I sure appreciate the good advice I find here and in the other MTBR forums.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

sbermhb said:


> 1Up suggested greasing the ball. If you look at the design of the expanding tightened, some grease on the ball will not reduce the friction/pressure that the ball exerts on the receiver. Also most of the friction and pressure come from the sides of the bar against the receiver and the downward force caused by the weight of the rack and bikes.


Well I stand corrected. Good to know.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Anyone have any maintenance tips for this rack? My cam arms seem to have a little wear on them (kind of a surface grittiness) that I was thinking about smoothing out with some superfine steel wool. What about lubrication? 

Thanks for the tip a few posts above about the bolts (BTW, where did you get the bolts/nylock nuts -- Home Depot?)


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

Is there any concern about the force of the wind blowing perpendicular to the bike and the rack's arms? I just purchased one (like everyone else it is the best rack on the market), however today going about 75mph on the highway the bike looked like it was being pushed over...this of course from the rear view mirror. In my case it is mounted to an impala so there is a lot of bike still above the trunk lid.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

I thought about this also and want to know what other people have to say. I have carbon frame & fork road bike.



jbsmith said:


> Is there any concern about the force of the wind blowing perpendicular to the bike and the rack's arms? I just purchased one (like everyone else it is the best rack on the market), however today going about 75mph on the highway the bike looked like it was being pushed over...this of course from the rear view mirror. In my case it is mounted to an impala so there is a lot of bike still above the trunk lid.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

Cebu Boy said:


> I thought about this also and want to know what other people have to say. I have carbon frame & fork road bike.


For what it is worth I did stop at one point because I thought it was loose...I'm not sure if the bike actually moves or if it's just an illusion from the mirror. Obviously the rack flexes some laterally so the bike shakes as expected...just looks like its getting blown over...I don't think the frame material or type of bike would matter much.


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## Alaskagriz (Aug 27, 2011)

Thought I would chime in about the 1-up. I likemine for sure and I'll second all the positive things people have already mentioned. However, I just have one issue with it and it's interesting to hear that others have had a similar issue: my bolt loosens up all the time. I'll get it tight as it can be and after 30 miles driving to the trailhead it will be loose to the point that I can slide the whole thing out with a little bit of wiggling. I've been using mine for year and I haven't lost a bike yet . Maybe that little bit of friction is all it needs but it does make you nervous if you know what I mean.


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

Tighten the bolt with allen key by hand first then take a rubber mallet and tap it tight a couple more turns.(grease the ball bearing on the rack first) Then to remove tap the allen wrench with rubber mallet to loosen. :thumbsup: has never come loose since doing it this way.


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## Velosprocket (Feb 15, 2009)

Alaskagriz said:


> my bolt loosens up all the time. I'll get it tight as it can be and after 30 miles driving to the trailhead it will be loose to the point that I can slide the whole thing out with a little bit of wiggling.


Which bolt(s) is the problem child, can somebody take a pic?


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I think they're referring to the main mounting bolt that forces the ball against the inside of the receiver tube on the hitch.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I've also had the retention mechanism (the ball in the hitch bar) loosen up once after thousands of miles without problem. I sent it back to 1up (on their dime, of course) and they said that one of the internal components had worn out. Perhaps yours is experiencing a similar situation?

I should get mine back Monday and will have a full report. I would suggest that using a mallet to achieve enough torque is never the "best" option.


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## TJM0031 (Aug 5, 2010)

Anyone have one of these mounted on a newer Xterra (2005 or later). Just ordered one Friday to replace my 60 pound boat anchor Thule t2. 
Any photos of clearance/fit on an X??
Thanks,
Tjm


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## MCS5280 (Mar 14, 2008)

Damn all of you. My wallet is begging for mercy.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

jbsmith said:


> Is there any concern about the force of the wind blowing perpendicular to the bike and the rack's arms? I just purchased one (like everyone else it is the best rack on the market), however today going about 75mph on the highway the bike looked like it was being pushed over...this of course from the rear view mirror. In my case it is mounted to an impala so there is a lot of bike still above the trunk lid.


I have to agree on this, it is still very unnerving to see the bike getting blown all over at hwy speeds. I have a Subaru Legacy which is similiar in shape which causes the bikes to get pounded by the wind. I have starting using cam straps on as a safety connecting the arms to the wheels. Plus on long hwy trips I try to control the movement with a ratchet strap setup. Nothing really helps since you're essentially dragging the bike broadside through the wind.

I m buying a 2013 Outback so hopefully it won't be nearly as bad since its a wagon.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

Subyroo651 said:


> I have to agree on this, it is still very unnerving to see the bike getting blown all over at hwy speeds. I have a Subaru Legacy which is similiar in shape which causes the bikes to get pounded by the wind. I have starting using cam straps on as a safety connecting the arms to the wheels. Plus on long hwy trips I try to control the movement with a ratchet strap setup. Nothing really helps since you're essentially dragging the bike broadside through the wind.
> 
> I m buying a 2013 Outback so hopefully it won't be nearly as bad since its a wagon.


I was thinking of some type of strap as well...care to post a link to what you're using? Are you attaching it to the car in the trunk seam...like a trunk mount rack would?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Just use a toe clip strap. They work perfectly.

J.


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## t0pcat (May 7, 2012)

Naaaaa all you worriers need a roll of that packing plastic wrap to wrap all around your car and bike,then throw away your rear view mirror,put blinders on, or better yet put a blindfold on and let someone else drive that way you won't see anything to be scared of!!!


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## BigWorms (Sep 7, 2010)

Just ordered mine! 2" 2 Bike carrier plus 2 add-ons.

Can't wait to get it!


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

I know the black anodized version has not been out for that long but has anyone experienced rub marks or exposed aluminum where the tires rest in the trays? Also, have you noticed the black fading at all?


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

What cable are you guys using to lock your bike to the rack? I was going to make my own from cable at the hardware store, but I want something nicer...maybe with an integrated lock.

Maybe a Yakima cable lock? Not sure which one would be best since some of them are specific for their racks.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Cables are too easy to cut. Hardened square/hexagonal profile chains are a bit slower to defeat.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I recently bought the single-bike rack with an add-on tray. I mounted mine on my 1995 Trooper this morning. I was hoping, but not expecting, that it would sit low enough to let me open the rear door, and have enough length that a bike would clear the spare tire without needing a hitch extension. I got lucky on both counts. Nice way to start the day.


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## AirKuhl (Jun 11, 2012)

Installed mine last night on a JSW TDi.

Things I love:
Made in the USA! 
Looks beautiful. Very aircraft-quality looking.
Holds any combination of 26ers and 29ers securely.
Very small when folded. Love that it'll fit in a corner of the trunk if needed.
1+1 configuration is perfect. I often transport any of 1-4 bikes. Between the add-on and 2 roof racks I can easily and quickly do any configuration. Love how it only takes 30 seconds to install or remove the extension.
Super solid when mounted.
Easy and quick bike loading/unloading.
Glad it angles up. Clearance with even just the empty hitch is marginal on this car.
I LOVE that it doesn't need a hitch pin. I need to adjust it out a tiny bit from full-in to clear the bumper when folded up, this mounting system allows fine adjustment.

Things I don't love:
Has some sharp edges, be careful.
The angle adjustment system is solid, but clumsy to use compared to some others.
Cheaper would be nice.

Tips and suggestions:
It comes with 2 of the special allen wrenches. Store one somewhere safe and keep the other in your car at all times. 
Before any road trip, check and tighten connectors and bolts.
Buy the hitch bar stop. Not only will it make re-installation in the same spot each time trivial, it will give you instant visual feedback if the rack vibrates out even a small fraction of an inch.
Buy a cheap u-lock to lock the rack to the hitch and some chain or cable to lock the bikes onto the u-lock. 2 birds with one stone.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

I pulled the trigger yesterday. Went ahead and spent the extra $100 on the black. Figured what the hell, I've been through 2 bike racks now (Swagman XC and Raxter) on the way to this one, and might as well get "the ultimate", and just be done with it. 

-Tom


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

AirKuhl- Thanks for the tips/suggestions. Mine is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Could those sharp edges be sanded at all with some really fine sandpaper or do you just have to deal with that?

trhoppe- I also spent the extra $100 on the black (1+1). It's just money, right?? I have a black car and black bike. I think it will look really nice. 

This will be my first rack so I don't have much to compare it to, but I can't wait to get it. It is like Christmas!


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

tennisfan76 said:


> AirKuhl- Thanks for the tips/suggestions. Mine is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Could those sharp edges be sanded at all with some really fine sandpaper or do you just have to deal with that?
> 
> trhoppe- I also spent the extra $100 on the black (1+1). It's just money, right?? I have a black car and black bike. I think it will look really nice.
> 
> This will be my first rack so I don't have much to compare it to, but I can't wait to get it. It is like Christmas!


Don't sand the edges on your black rack.
You will sand through the black ano.
The rack will be fine the way it is.


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

Oh....good point!! I would have definitely thought that one through before doing it, but apparently I didn't think before typing (which is always a good thing to do). Thanks!


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## quelocotony (Dec 3, 2006)

Mine arrived today. Almost hugged the UPS guy when he came to the door.

Installed the rack in about 5 mins -- took my time to make sure I didn't mess anything up. I plan to take it out for a spin tomorrow before I go on a 1,100 mile trip to AZ on Saturday.

*Props to Robbie at 1up who patiently answered my many questions over the phone and helped me get the rack in time for my trip. :thumbsup:*


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## jon777 (Mar 30, 2008)

racerwad said:


> my Honda Fit has plenty of internal capacity to carry another bike or two and the riders to ride them.


I know this post is from 2010 but I just have to comment.. How the fk can you carry 2 bikes inside a Fit AND the riders to ride them when I can only comfortably put two bikes in my Grand Cherokee?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

jon777 said:


> I know this post is from 2010 but I just have to comment.. How the fk can you carry 2 bikes inside a Fit AND the riders to ride them when I can only comfortably put two bikes in my Grand Cherokee?


You know that there is a way to send messages to one another without bumping old posts, right? :thumbsup:

But, to answer your question:

1) I pack better than you 
2) The Fit may have more _usable_ capacity than the GC
3) Maybe you misinterpreted; I'm only talking about two bikes max inside the car. There definitely is space for two bikes and three riders inside the Fit. A bunch of extended trip gear and the definition of "comfortably" gets stretched, I'm sure.

FWIW, I did finally get another tray for my 1up because I was tired of taking off a front wheel.

Not my pic but just a proof of concept:


















Pics are from: https://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/honda-fit-ultimate-compact-bike-hauler-267185-2.html <-Thanks to original posters for their images.

Anyhow, make sense now?


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## OhioBadger (Feb 27, 2012)

I'm sold on this rack but I'm wondering if it'll work with front/rear racks on my future Surly Ogre??


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

ric426 said:


> Well, I hope you're happy. You really did it now!
> Thanks to this thread (and the other reviews) I just ordered a silver single bike Quik Rack. I just bought a Ford Focus hatchback, and while I could fit one of my bikes in back, I could tell it was just a matter of time until I messed up the interior. I decided that for my purposes a rear tray rack makes more sense than a roof rack and the 1up racks look like the best choice for me.
> I sure appreciate the good advice I find here and in the other MTBR forums.


Great choice! You ill be very happy with it. I am.


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## Mr_O (Apr 30, 2012)

Patiently waiting for the UPS guy..... Started out with just a single in black. I had to get a hitch installed as well so i'm staggering my payments!


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

Mr_O said:


> Patiently waiting for the UPS guy..... Started out with just a single in black. I had to get a hitch installed as well so i'm staggering my payments!


Oh, yay!! I got my hitch receiver installed last Saturday and the UPS man just delivered my rack. I've been anxiously tracking it all week. I did the black 1+1. I can't wait for the work day to end, so that I can bust it open & check it out. If I didn't have plans tonight, I'd be heading out somewhere to ride for sure. I guess I know what I will be doing all weekend. I better start early though because we are supposed to be in the triple digits. LOTS of water and sunscreen!!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Experienced today transporting a bike with a flat rear tire (spare tube ended up with a broken valve). Took some "engineering" but I secured the bike (nearest the car) without much drama. 

All it took was a towel on the rear brake caliper as the folding arm was hitting it when in the normal position (since the tire was flat), I still could have moved it a bit to make it tighter but no go as the arm was hitting the frame/caliper (plus I had to deal with another bike in front for positioning).

Ended up using some velcro straps and tied the rear wheel down securely to the folding arm. No biggie, and I know people wondered how transporting with a flat would work.


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## jon777 (Mar 30, 2008)

racerwad said:


> You know that there is a way to send messages to one another without bumping old posts, right? :thumbsup:
> 
> But, to answer your question:
> 
> ...


Well, it's more fun to just say it out loud in the thread than PM'ing you.. well, I guess you just have a higher tolerance for scratches and derailleurs and disc brakes touching other things.. If I packed my GC that way, I would probably fit 8 bikes.. so no, no way a Fit has more "usable capacity"..don't get me wrong I'm not a Honda hater, I still have my semi-souped up 98 Civic hatchback..

But yeah, you are a better packer than I am..


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

Got a new car recently, put the old Yakima Double Down 4 on it and realized quickly that we need an improved rack. The Yak was a good rack, but with the various types of FS bikes we put on it regularly we had begun to really wear out it's usefulness. It would usually be a struggle to get 3 bikes on the thing let alone 4; 4 would usually require the removal of several of the front wheels as the suspension designs limited the number of ways bikes could be placed on the rack. Plus on the last trip home from Moab, my bike started to jump off the cradles which makes me very very uneasy; probably due to wearing out cradles or straps, but unacceptable none the less.

Of course, feeling like uncle moneybags with a new car (the truth is roughly the opposite right now) we decided to upgrade the rack to one that wouldn't terrify us and that could get us some more ground clearance and ability to take the bikes through some "rough" terrain. The 1up was the natural choice.

Opted for the 2 bike carrier because we plan on upgrading the rack to carry 4 bikes sometime in the future. Out of the box the thing is impressive. It's stout, clever, and impressively well made. It appears that the person who designed it had more experience in aerospace than they did in sports manufacturing because the details and fit and finish are impressive. It folds up nicely for the garage, and unfolds quickly to put on the car. The 2 bike Quick Rack isn't terribly light, but it's a little less cumbersome than the Yakima and is roughly the same weight on my calibrated arm scale.

Loading the bikes is straight forward, though it's so easy that I do find myself checking the rearview frequently to make sure the bikes are still there and doing ok; I'm sure I'll get used to it with time. The stability while driving is unreal. No swaying and no bouncing of the bikes. All of the other manufacturer's racks that I have used over the years all suffer some degree of rack sway; they say that it's a "feature" but it's always disconcerting to me. This rack does not sway: awesome.

My gripes include the fact that I don't trust that the hitch bolt is "theft proof". It's great to say it, and I don't doubt that they would replace the rack if required, but I would prefer not to have to go through that at all. Even an eyelet for a chain would be better than nothing at all. Plus a chain could give an easy to reach point to chain the bikes to the rack/car which is another pesudo-gripe of mine. I do have a cable lock that can reach 2 bikes and the hitch, but with 4 bikes it's going to take 2 locks. Small price to pay for a product that is designed to carry bikes to a destination and does it very well? Yeah, I suppose it is.

I've even had a chance to try out their customer service. I noticed after my first trip with the rack that there was a bolt missing which holds down one of the trays (1 of 4 bolts missing). I contacted 1up through their website form and the next morning had a response asking for a picture. I sent the picture and hours later they responded to my email with the pictures saying that they had shipped a replacement. Not only did they ship it quickly, it arrived quickly and with a spare bolt and the wrench to put it on. Very pleased with my decision to buy this rack so far.

P.S. The black looks good on a black car with my black bike. Guess I'll have to take a picture.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

For a secondary lock, like others, I plan to use a u lock around the hitch and the rack. For now, I've been keeping it in my trunk. I love the way it folds up nice and compact.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Well, you can add me to the list of happy Quik Rack owners. Mine arrived today and was on the car with my bike on it less than 5 minutes later. Took it for a test drive down our bumpy dirt road and everything was fine. Drove to my favorite trail and it took longer to get my riding shoes on than it did to take the bike off and get it ready to ride. I may have found another customer for 1up because I noticed a guy watching me when I finished my ride and put the bike on the rack in a matter of seconds. He came over to check it out and sounds like he's gonna get one too.


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## TJM0031 (Aug 5, 2010)

Got mine yesterday. Fits and looks good on my Xterra! Will haul a bike Friday but it did fine today running empty and with the tray folded up towards the bumper. Happy buyer here, thus far...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

One thing I didn't initially notice is that if your not careful you may end up hitting your disc rotor with the support arms. I have to make sure my bike is situated properly or I end up mashing the rotor on the arm...

I'm assuming this won't be the case with every bike due to sizes and geometries.


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

I got mine and took it out for the first ride last night. The black one looks great with my black car and black bike. The first time out made me a little nervous.....glancing in my rearview mirror A LOT, but it worked great. Hopefully my rack, my bike and I will enjoy many years and many adventures together. 

**I have noticed in other pictures that some racks have kind of a rubber band on the arms that someone mentioned keeps the arms from rubbing against the platforms when not in use. Mine didn't have those. I am curious if that is just something on previous models??? Those of you with newer racks, did your rack come with those?


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

Mine doesn't have those bands. Actually one arm can't close all the way because it hits the red cam lock. I asked 1up about this and they said to just bend it some to make it clear. Unfortunately I've not been able to do that (like it won't bend or not enough)...so one side just stays up a little to clear the cam.


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## TJM0031 (Aug 5, 2010)

tennisfan76 said:


> I got mine and took it out for the first ride last night. The black one looks great with my black car and black bike. The first time out made me a little nervous.....glancing in my rearview mirror A LOT, but it worked great. Hopefully my rack, my bike and I will enjoy many years and many adventures together.
> 
> **I have noticed in other pictures that some racks have kind of a rubber band on the arms that someone mentioned keeps the arms from rubbing against the platforms when not in use. Mine didn't have those. I am curious if that is just something on previous models??? Those of you with newer racks, did your rack come with those?


Mine showed up without the rubber spacers. Called 1up since I thought I was missing them. The advised that they no longer do those since their research has showed they are not needed. He advised that the original reason for them was to keep the arms inline during shipping since they had a string of damaged packages/bent racks with UPS. That was the reason I was given yesterday.

If you are not satisfied then they offer 100% satisfaction and probably exchange. I don't have the alignment issues you are having.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

TJM0031 said:


> Mine showed up without the rubber spacers. Called 1up since I thought I was missing them. The advised that they no longer do those since their research has showed they are not needed. He advised that the original reason for them was to keep the arms inline during shipping since they had a string of damaged packages/bent racks with UPS. That was the reason I was given yesterday.
> 
> If you are not satisfied then they offer 100% satisfaction and probably exchange. I don't have the alignment issues you are having.


Thanks! I was not too worried. I don't have the alignment issues like jbsmith....just curious if they were accidentally left off.

The only issue I have had is that my rack has been on my car since I received it a week ago and I have had it scrape a couple of times on inclines just driving around the city. I think I might take it off and only have it on when I am taking my bike somewhere. It is light and easy enough to install that I don't think this should be too big a deal.


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

:thumbsup:


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

:thumbsup:The more I use it the more I love it!


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

Time to get your bikes dirty, little buddy.


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## iamunchien (Mar 30, 2008)

LittleBuddy said:


> :thumbsup:The more I use it the more I love it!


the angularity of the rack matchss the angularity of your car.

meow.


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## quelocotony (Dec 3, 2006)

Drove to AZ with 3 bikes. 2 on my roof rack and one on my 1Up Rack which was flawless. 

Another big plus for the hitch rack is that this was the only bike that did not need to have bugs scraped off after the 1,100 mile drive. 

Bottom-line, selling my roof rack, buying a 1Up Add On Rack.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

There's a lot of you that have taken the rack on long road trips but what I want to know is how the rack holds up to a lot miles on rough dirt roads.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Rock dude said:


> There's a lot of you that have taken the rack on long road trips but what I want to know is how the rack holds up to a lot miles on rough dirt roads.


I've got some play at the expander ball that holds the rack in place. And on dirt roads for shuttling I got to re-tighten the hitch after we park. I've been meaning to send it back to 1up for warranty service. Their CS is terrific.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Rock dude said:


> There's a lot of you that have taken the rack on long road trips but what I want to know is how the rack holds up to a lot miles on rough dirt roads.


As I mentioned a few posts back I've done a lot of miles on dirt roads with mine. The retention mechanism eventually lost some of its retention-ing ability. I sent it back to 1up (on their dime) and they turned the rack around in a day. Pretty happy so far. This August will be about 75k miles on my rack with this being the only real problem.


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

:thumbsup:

Love love love this rack :thumbsup:


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## dcp_nz (Apr 16, 2009)

Got to say pictures do not do justice to this rack
I've been debating getting one for at least a year now and always balk at the price
Finally saw one in person a few days ago and it is way more solid and beefy than I imagined.

Order placed!!!


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I finally ordered the rack. I ordered the single sense 90% of the time I'm by myself.
I should be getting the rack on Thursday and I have trip planed for this weekend that will involve around 50 miles of rough dirt roads. I will tell ya what I think after that. I can't wait!


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Rock dude said:


> I finally ordered the rack. I ordered the single since 90% of the time I'm by myself.
> I should be getting the rack on Thursday and I have trip planed for this weekend that will involve around 50 miles of rough dirt roads. I will tell ya what I think after that. I can't wait!


Rough roads are no problem for that rack. Last summer I did a few 100 miles in CO with my bike on the rack and it never loosened up or looked like it was going to fall off.


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## gideon (May 24, 2007)

racerwad said:


> As I mentioned a few posts back I've done a lot of miles on dirt roads with mine. The retention mechanism eventually lost some of its retention-ing ability. I sent it back to 1up (on their dime) and they turned the rack around in a day. Pretty happy so far. This August will be about 75k miles on my rack with this being the only real problem.


same thing happened on mine, the thing that slides over the wheels would untension, 1up replaced the parts for free and sent me a newish upgrade

One thing I would like to try and figure out is a better way to lock the bikes to the rac, it would be nice if there was some tab or loop on the rack itslef as my hitch doesnt have one that's conducive to having a closeby heavy 3 or 4 ft link chain btwn bike and rack 
I know it's always a bad idea to lock bikes to rack, but at least a ny style chian will slow them down (more than a foofy cable) or the built in locking mechanism on a thule ot yak rack


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

UPS delivered my new 1up rack last night, so I had to try it out first thing this morning.
I took it about 1 mile of a pretty rough dirt road and it did fine. The bike was in the exact same 
place as when I left, it didn't move at all. I did notice that the rack flexed a little bit up and down, my guess is because of the 1 1/4" shaft. I'm sure the rack would not flex with the 2' shaft.
I also have a Saris 2 bike rack with the extra two bike add on. It's been a good rack but it's very heavy and I've had a problem when I have two bikes with the rear derailleur hitting on the arms (not a good thing).
I ride about 95% of the time by myself so this single rack will work out great.


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

It holds road bikes too :thumbsup:


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

My favorite feature of the 1UP is that it's a full size 2 bike platform hitch rack but it folds up like a transformer and fits in the trunk of any vehicle with plenty of extra room to spare  :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Jul 16, 2012)

Thanks to this site and lots of research, I too sucked up the cost and bought the 1UP Aluminum plus 1 add on... Honestly, the thing is a dream!!! I'm new to traveling around with a bike and starting to ride a little more seriously than "neighborhood runs" ... wanted to be inspired to use it, so the ease negated the cost in the end. Installed the rack and bike in less than one minute! Love the reflective square in the middle when it is folded up behind the car as well. NOTEWORTHY!!!!!!!!!!! I have a new Honda Accord and had drawtight hitch installed, and the first time I used the rack, I released both tires from the clamps and was looking in awe - not realizing that it wasn't held on (blond moment)... and the bike fell onto the trunk making a serious dent. For me, a one time hardship, for you, maybe it will save the same fate.


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## BigWorms (Sep 7, 2010)

Got my rack a couple of weeks ago and as others have said, pics don't do it justice! It is amazing rack!

But this is my biggest complaint. With 4 bikes total trying to reach that black bar is impossible. I have to lie on the floor to reach it. Does anybody have tips? 


JimmyNeutron10101 said:


> Anyone with 3+ bikes have any tips on lowering and raising the bike rack w/out breaking a back?
> 
> W/ 3 bikes on, I have to stretch to reach the black bar to tilt the rack up or down. I tried putting my legs in between the rack, press on the black bar and then lift the rack up an d that seems to be more work because you have to make sure the rack doesn't tilt you over. It's not easy holding onto about 55lbs(25+15+15) on just one side of your body while bending over to sqeeze the black bar in.
> 
> I plan on adding a 3rd add-on for 4 bikes total, and once I do that, I need to find an easier way to lower/raise the rack while squeezing the black bar.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

With 4 bikes, it's a two person job. Have someone hold the end up, then you have to step between the bikes to get a good grip on the bar. However, the whole thing is unwieldy and it is not a good idea to tip this rack down when fully loaded just like on any other 4 bike rack in similar circumstances. Think about it for minute - you have probably 120 lbs of bikes and rack that you are trying to "tilt". Is that something you really want to do? Answer: no.

Now imagine doing this with 4 bikes and a steel rack that weighs 80 lbs. That's 120 lbs of bike and 80 lbs of rack. Good luck with the 200 lb clean and jerk lift to pick it up - assuming you've actually been able to put it down as well.

If you are getting something out of the back of the car, it's a lot easier to remove one or two bikes and do it that way. It's so quick to load or unload the bikes, that it's easy and a lot less work.

The tilt really works well when empty - much easier to do and that enables you to tip the rack up when empty. That, IMO, is it's real function - tipping it up when empty.

J.


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## BigWorms (Sep 7, 2010)

Heck, empty is how I was talking about. It is a pain to reach to pull the black bar.

I would not even attempt full.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Stand between the trays, pull up on the tray with on hand and work the bar with the other. It's a lot easier without the load sitting on the bar's contacts.

J.


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

On a 2012 Subaru WRX Sedan...


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

flipnidaho said:


> On a 2012 Subaru WRX Sedan...


I bought my 1up rack because I didn't want anything rubbing on my Enve wheels
Nice bike!


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

:thumbsup:


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

I have had my rack now just for a couple of months and have loved it. Just recently I used the 1 bike add-on for the first time when a friend and I needed to travel about an hour away for an event ride on Antelope Island. This was also the first time I had been on the Freeway (65+ mph) with this rack. Before now, I hadn't been too far away from home, as we have tons of great trails close by here in Utah. I was a little nervous and was checking my rear view mirror often. On our way home, it was VERY windy and although the bikes were moving, I felt confident that they weren't going anywhere. 
I am even now more in love with this rack!


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## mwcet8k (Jun 17, 2004)

Just bought a 1up and used it for the first time today. As others have said, pictures don't do it justice. The quality and craftsmanship is outstanding, the hitch retention system is brilliant, and I LOVE not having to take the front tire off my bike. Loading and unloading bikes couldn't be easier. 

Only two gripes so far, and they're minor. First, pulling the black bar to tilt the rack has been tricky the few times I've attempted it. I have a feeling this will go smoother once it breaks in a little, but so far it has a tendency to stick and has required that I put some muscle into it. Second, the rack is pretty heavy. I have the two bike model for two inch hitches, which I think weighs around 50 pounds. Not a big deal for me, but some women would probably struggle getting it installed. Obviously, there's not much that 1up can do about this, since it's built mostly from aluminum. (Carbon fiber?? :thumbsup

Overall I'm very happy with it and am convinced it's the best rack on the market. It ain't cheap, but you really do get what you pay for.


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

mwcet8k said:


> Only two gripes so far, and they're minor. First, pulling the black bar to tilt the rack has been tricky the few times I've attempted it. I have a feeling this will go smoother once it breaks in a little, but so far it has a tendency to stick and has required that I put some muscle into it. .


Push or pull up on the rack first and the tilt mechanism works easily:thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

mwcet8k said:


> Only two gripes so far, and they're minor. First, pulling the black bar to tilt the rack has been tricky the few times I've attempted it. I have a feeling this will go smoother once it breaks in a little, but so far it has a tendency to stick and has required that I put some muscle into it.


You have to take the load of the weight of the rack off of the black bar for it to be able to move easier. EIther pick up on the rack or have someone else do it and you'll find that it's simple to release the lock.



> Second, the rack is pretty heavy. I have the two bike model for two inch hitches, which I think weighs around 50 pounds. Not a big deal for me, but some women would probably struggle getting it installed. Obviously, there's not much that 1up can do about this, since it's built mostly from aluminum. (Carbon fiber?? :thumbsup
> 
> Overall I'm very happy with it and am convinced it's the best rack on the market. It ain't cheap, but you really do get what you pay for.


We have the single rack version with add on kits. Each section is 20 lbs or less so it's easy to do it in pieces for even the smallest adult or a child.

J.


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## MrPretty (Feb 22, 2012)

Just got mine, the more I use it the more I don't know how I used to live without it. It is so simple and quick to load/unload.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Nice bikes! Oh, and bike rack too.. 
I actually had some of my riding friends try my rack and order one for themselves. I should be on commission for 1Up...


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

Mine just arrived today. Very well made, shipped fast, and it's sooo easy to use.


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## quelocotony (Dec 3, 2006)

Had mine for 2 months now. Absolutely love it. I can't believe I went this long without it. 

Notice the Yakima rack on top of my car collecting dust? It will be posted on Craiglist as soon my new Add On Rack (ordered today) arrives this week.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

I just received my silver 2-bike rack and 3rd bike add-on and the ball bearing in the 2" hitch is missing. It looks like there was an error in the milling process that caused a bur in the hole where the ball bearing sits. I think this bur prevented the ball bearing from being pressed into the hitch during manufacturing. I left a message on 1Up's answering machine so we will see what happens in the morning, but I leave on a 20 day drip to Colorado at the end of this week :madman:. I also noticed that the rack moved around inside the box a good bit. The end screws punctured the end of the box during transit. The screws are a little banged up but not too bad. The rack is very impressive in person.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Have you tried threading the locking mechanism in? It looks like the expanding ball is right there. I don't think that the ball is installed from the outside in; it would be more secure vice versa. Anyhow, since you have the rack and need it to work, why not just try fitting the rack into your hitch and tightening it down. Wouldn't hurt. Hopefully you get fixed up before your trip. It sucks when the timing falls like this.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

racerwad said:


> Have you tried threading the locking mechanism in? It looks like the expanding ball is right there. I don't think that the ball is installed from the outside in; it would be more secure vice versa. Anyhow, since you have the rack and need it to work, why not just try fitting the rack into your hitch and tightening it down. Wouldn't hurt. Hopefully you get fixed up before your trip. It sucks when the timing falls like this.


The metal piece inside the hole is just the rounded plug that pushes out the ball bearing when you turn the screw. Trust me the first thing I tried was tightening the bolt. The ball bearing for my rack is rolling around in a CNC shop somewhere.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Probably in Wisconsin somewhere. Good luck getting it sorted out.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

Well, I just talked to 1UP this morning and apparently they had a few hitches where the ball pocket was not machined deep enough so they had to bring them back to the machine shop to bore them out which is why the ball pocket is not anodized in the picture. Apparently the machinist bored the pockets out slightly too large and the ball was able to wiggle itself loose. The bur/nick on the side of the pocket is placed there on purpose to hold the ball in place. They are sending me two ball bearings and told me to tap the ball into place and then use a hammer to round off the edges of the pocket to create a lip to hold the ball. They offered to return the rack for a refund but they did not offer an exchange due to shipping rates. They said I could use the rack on my trip and return the rack for a refund after I get back if I wanted. They were quick to respond with a solution, but we will see how well the hitch holds the ball. I really don't want to be banging on the rack with a hammer to try and make it work right or chasing around a loose ball bearing every-time I remove the rack. It might not be a big deal but I will just have to wait and see. They did say that this is the second call they received this morning about the issue so I was not the only one that received a ball-less rack . Nothing in life is perfect but your sure want it to be for $529.00.


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

Thankfully my rack didn't have the ball problem and I just got it yesterday and mounted it up. I was hesitant to buy 1up as from the pics it looks kind of home made. In person this rack is very nice.
I bought it because of the versatility and it is the only one I found that once it leaves the hitch it slants up away from the ground which is very nice for a car to give extra clearance. I also like that I can leave it on the car all the time and it takes a very small amount of space and I can open the rear hitch. Generally I only carry one bike so it is nice to be able to leave it on the car and it not be in the way.
I have a Yeti 575 and a fatbike so I bought it with the spacers for the fat tires. I also have a thule rack that the arm grabs the tire. The thule works but not as well with the fat tires as the tires do not fit in the tray. 1UP so far seems like a lot nicer rack and made in the USA!


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

peanut09 said:


> I was hesitant to buy 1up as from the pics it looks kind of home made. In person this rack is very nice.


It does have a bit of an "erector set" look to it at a distance, but anyone who thinks this is a homemade rack after seeing it up close either has access to some nice machinery in their garage or has no experience in manufacturing. :thumbsup:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I've gotten a lot of compliments and inquiries about mine. It does look and feel solid in the flesh.

Here's a picture of mine alongside my friend's NSR-4. For carrying up to 2 bikes, I like having them snugged up to the bumper like this. Three bikes is probably six of one, half a dozen of another. But once you get up to a bike's height in distance out, I think it makes more sense to hang them, like a NSR-4 or obviously a NSR-6. I really like the North Shore Racks, but one drawback is having to play bike Tetris with different stack heights, stem lengths and bar widths. The Arbutus racks might be better for this. Anyway, for my 1-2 bike needs, the 1-Up is great. It would be nice to have a little more width for flat pedals, but obviously that would mean higher material costs.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

*Hitch Pin*



gdtrfb24 said:


> For a secondary lock, like others, I plan to use a u lock around the hitch and the rack. For now, I've been keeping it in my trunk. I love the way it folds up nice and compact.


My rack is on order so I have not seen the unit in the "metal". But, what would be wrong with drilling a hole and using a standard hitch pin lock?

Slow


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

slow450 said:


> My rack is on order so I have not seen the unit in the "metal". But, what would be wrong with drilling a hole and using a standard hitch pin lock?
> 
> Slow


Because you will be drilling right into the expanding ball mechanism.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

slow450 said:


> My rack is on order so I have not seen the unit in the "metal". But, what would be wrong with drilling a hole and using a standard hitch pin lock?
> 
> Slow


Because this would be dumb.


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

slow450 said:


> My rack is on order so I have not seen the unit in the "metal". But, what would be wrong with drilling a hole and using a standard hitch pin lock?
> 
> Slow


It will be obvious when you get it. You can not drill through as the mechanism that works the ball goes all the way to the end.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

slow450 said:


> My rack is on order so I have not seen the unit in the "metal". But, what would be wrong with drilling a hole and using a standard hitch pin lock?
> 
> Slow


Like others have said, DON'T drill through it. A short cable lock can secure the rack to the hitch of the car if need be. Personally, I'll take mine off the car and fold it up in the trunk when I am out for a long ride. So far I have had no issues with someone trying to steal my rack. YMMV


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Just sold my Yakima StickUp tonight and ordered me a 1Up 1 bike rack. I almost bought the 1Up previously but went with the much cheaper StickUp instead. 
The Yakima works fine as a rack but I just got tired of not being able to open the rear hatch when the rack is folded it up. 
Super excited to get the 1Up. Will probably order the add-on in a couple of months after my wallet recovers a bit.
Those of you that ordered recently, how soon after ordering did they ship?


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## MrPretty (Feb 22, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> Just sold my Yakima StickUp tonight and ordered me a 1Up 1 bike rack. I almost bought the 1Up previously but went with the much cheaper StickUp instead.
> The Yakima works fine as a rack but I just got tired of not being able to open the rear hatch when the rack is folded it up.
> Super excited to get the 1Up. Will probably order the add-on in a couple of months after my wallet recovers a bit.
> Those of you that ordered recently, how soon after ordering did they ship?


Mine shipped the day after placing the order and it arrived at my house a week after the order was placed.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Just thought I'd drop by and give an update on my personal experiences with my *1upUSA.com 2" Bike Rack (with one extension module)*.

*Bottom Line: Just buy this rack... It has no weaknesses. Pay the money, get a top quality, USA-crafted, bike rack you'll only have to buy once.*

I'll be adding the 4th and final module to my rack for my birthday. And while we were planning to construct a special 2" receiver kit for my wife's Saturn ION, so she could share the rack, plans have changed. We're STILL going to build the special receiver, but we are going to buy a second 2" HD rack system for the car. We like them THAT much! My wife loves the racks ease of function and loading/unloading, and can do it all without any trouble whatsoever.... but she's awesome like that. YMMV 

I've now had my rack for 10 months and two days, and have been using it on a daily basis. I cleared a place in the garage to store it, but that place is still empty. My rack never leaves my truck's receiver.

Yesterday, I folded it up to check the tension bolt, just because I had never checked it from the day of installation (you SHOULD check it sooner; I think they actually have a recommendation of when to do this). I had noticed lately that there was a barely perceptible lateral rotational movement... Hit the tension bolt with less than 1/4 turn and it's tight... like it is welded there.

Now... the rack has been through NW Louisiana's two seasons.... a pretty decently cool and wet Winter (two freezes) and all the way to the other end of the spectrum to a wet and dry, sun scalding summer of multiple 100+ days in the direct sun, etc, etc... So, a couple of squeaks had crept in here and there. Yesterday, I took out my pen oiler filled with HILCO Lube (best GP lube on the planet BTW) and just put a drop or two at every friction contact point. 2 minutes later... no noise and smooth as butter.

I couldn't be happier with this product. It delivers on every expectation I have in a bike rack! Just buy it...:thumbsup:


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

mrpretty said:


> mine shipped the day after placing the order and it arrived at my house a week after the order was placed.


x2.


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## GhostRing (Feb 29, 2012)

My 1UP(+1) is officially up and running!
This really is the best [email protected] rack out there IMO.

The only few drawbacks are due to my vehicle ('94 4Runner) having a fairly compact bumper/gate
configuration...the only way to drop gate fully - even with empty rack, is to tilt it down. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but I wish I could re-drill/machine the side plates to drop the rack about 2". That would still give me plenty of clearance when level. But I think I'd rather just get a newer, nicer vehicle!


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## armoredsaint (Aug 8, 2012)

Wingspan said:


> It does have a bit of an "erector set" look to it at a distance, but anyone who thinks this is a homemade rack after seeing it up close either has access to some nice machinery in their garage or has no experience in manufacturing. :thumbsup:


i agree, the rack reminds me of the old people that attach their motorized scooters to 

i am undecided between the 2 bike 1up or Kuat NV - same price basically. but the Kuat has built-in locks and repair stand which is nice :thumbsup:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

It carries big bikes just fine, too.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

OK, I've narrowed my choices down to two racks like many others, the 1up heavy duty 2 bike rack and the Kuat NV2. While I know both are good racks I'm leaning towards the 1up because of a few important things. I'll be storing the rack in my apartment, or in the back of my Santa Fe so it needs to be small as possible. The site says the 1up folds to 38x14x10 does it really fold that small? What are people using to secure the rack to the car and the bikes to the rack? Another thing I like about the 1up is its the only one that's says its great for off road use. So from that statement I guessing I don't have to worry about shaking on city streets and highways? The NV2 has so many more features and security built in but if I can figure work around for the 1up I'll order it tomorrow.

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I have the Kuat NV2 with the NV2 add on and I also have the 1up single rack. I like both racks but I use the 1up rack about 90 percent of the time. The 1up rack is very easy to put on and take off the vehicle and even easier to put the bikes on. 
I purchased the Kuat rack and had it for about a year and figured out that only carried one bike most of the time so I purchased the single 1up.
If I had to do it all over again I think I would just get the single 1up rack and get the extra add on racks. I'm saving to get one add on for the 1up and than I will use the Kuat when I carry 3 or 4 bikes.
The 1up rack takes up a lot less space to store.
They are both great racks I just prefer the 1up over the Kuat.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

Rock dude said:


> I have the Kuat NV2 with the NV2 add on and I also have the 1up single rack. I like both racks but I use the 1up rack about 90 percent of the time. The 1up rack is very easy to put on and take off the vehicle and even easier to put the bikes on.
> I purchased the Kuat rack and had it for about a year and figured out that only carried one bike most of the time so I purchased the single 1up.
> If I had to do it all over again I think I would just get the single 1up rack and get the extra add on racks. I'm saving to get one add on for the 1up and than I will use the Kuat when I carry 3 or 4 bikes.
> The 1up rack takes up a lot less space to store.
> They are both great racks I just prefer the 1up over the Kuat.


Thanks for the reply. Are you using any extra locks for the 1up? That's one of the features I like about the NV2, the built-in security. How does the 1up take bumps on the road? Is the NV2 actually 66 inches in length?

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I do carry a cable lock but I really don't like to leave my bikes on any rack unattended even locked. It's just too easy for someone to cut any type of cable or lock. 
A friend of mine has my NV2 right now so I can't measure it but 66 inches sounds about right.
I drive "a lot" of rough dirt roads and that was a big concern of mine, the 1up rack has been fine. Just make sure that you tighten it down good and I always check it once in a while to make sure it's tight.


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

Noob9ers said:


> Thanks for the reply. Are you using any extra locks for the 1up? That's one of the features I like about the NV2, the built-in security. How does the 1up take bumps on the road? Is the NV2 actually 66 inches in length?
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


Generally speaking the "built in security" that comes with bike racks is really not all that secure. With my 1 UP rack I bought a long cable that I run though the bike and wheels then through itself so I only need to lock up one end of the cable. I lock the cable end to a U lock which also locks the bike rack to the hitch. Basically put the U lock through a tab on the hitch and it will go far enough to lock the 1 Up to the hitch and give plenty of room to add a cable when you close it. I bought the Kryptonite Mini for the U lock and a 7" cable. So far I have only tested it for fit and plan to use it for a trip but around town I don't use a lock as I don't leave my bike on the rack anywhere.
Edit: don't forget to lock the bike rack to the hitch if you come up with a different solution :thumbsup:


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## Martinfan (Aug 15, 2012)

btt


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Security is always an issue when it comes to a high dollar bike and I don't believe any system is perfect. Personally, I just never leave my bike on the rack without me nearby. Sure, I have a cable to lock but cables are an easy cut for someone looking to steal instead of work. I can even put my bike, front tire removed, inside my Honda CRV. Is this going to stop a would be thief? Nope, they would just break into the car and take what they want. Still love my 1UPUSA rack, convinced my son to buy one for his new bike and jeep, just hope he has the sense to not trust it. I just messaged him in regards. I have seen different ideas on locking bikes but I do not think any of them will stop a would be criminal.


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## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

Black 1up ordered, now to wait....

What are you guys using for reflectors? I saw a few pics in this thread where folks had added some sort of reflective tape or something like that...


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

I bought the single rack with an addon because I wanted the option of just running one rack. I was concerned with the stability of the smaller post with adapter in my 2" hitch but my desire to have the option of running only one rack trumped ordering the 2" 2 bike rack. This past weekend I drove on some pretty rough roads, not 4WD but worse than washboard with a lot of side to side sway. The rack did loosen up a bit in the hitch and one of the arms of the outer tray seemed to loosen as well. I tightened everything back down and it seemed to hold, maybe I didn't have it torqued down tight enough to begin with. 

In any case, even with the hitch fastened very tight you will notice some sway in the rack when on rough roads. I'm sure this is intentional but may seem disconcerting at first.


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

rob1035 said:


> Black 1up ordered, now to wait....
> 
> What are you guys using for reflectors? I saw a few pics in this thread where folks had added some sort of reflective tape or something like that...


I bought some reflective tape from a trailer store in town...


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

rob1035 said:


> Black 1up ordered, now to wait....
> 
> What are you guys using for reflectors? I saw a few pics in this thread where folks had added some sort of reflective tape or something like that...


Ummm... my 1UP rack came with reflector tape already applied...


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

cautery said:


> Ummm... my 1UP rack came with reflector tape already applied...


Ahh.. Perhaps mine didn't as I ordered a roof rack tray then added the option to apply it to a hitch. My tray does not fold in half like the one you order if you order a hitch mount version but I can use it in either position on the car.


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## Cebu Boy (Apr 19, 2012)

peanut09 said:


> Ahh.. Perhaps mine didn't as I ordered a roof rack tray then added the option to apply it to a hitch. My tray does not fold in half like the one you order if you order a hitch mount version but I can use it in either position on the car.


when did u order your tray? Few months ago i asked them if i can order a tray for roof rack and want the option to be able to attach it also to my hitch rack. And they told me they are not making this. They only did it one time as a favor to a guy in this forum few years ago.


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

Cebu Boy said:


> when did u order your tray? Few months ago i asked them if i can order a tray for roof rack and want the option to be able to attach it also to my hitch rack. And they told me they are not making this. They only did it one time as a favor to a guy in this forum few years ago.


Just a few weeks ago... They said enough people were asking for this option so they offered it to me. It was a little extra cost but given the versatility it was worth it to me. I also got mine with the spacers since I have a fatbike.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

Well I placed an order for the 1up single with an add-on. I really wanted the freedom of being able to have a single carrier sometimes since my GF will not always be biking with me. Before ordering I called the company and asked would the 1.25 hitch mount with spacer be just as secure in the hitch than the heavy duty that has the 2inch. He actually recommended the single with add-on if I wasn't planning on carrying more than 3 bikes. I hope this rack is as good as everyone is saying. My X-Cal should be in the lbs this weekend and I plan on riding next week soon as the rack arrives. 

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Yeah, srsly*



dcp_nz said:


> Got to say pictures do not do justice to this rack
> I've been debating getting one for at least a year now and always balk at the price
> Finally saw one in person a few days ago and it is way more solid and beefy than I imagined.
> 
> Order placed!!!


It's built like something that would have gone to the moon on the Apollo missions.

BTW, (and sorry for the reverse spam) if somebody has an extra add-on tray they wanna part with, lemmie know. :thumbsup:



peanut09 said:


> Just a few weeks ago... They said enough people were asking for this option so they offered it to me. It was a little extra cost but given the versatility it was worth it to me. I also got mine with the spacers since I have a fatbike.


How do they do that? Do they just add U-Bolt holes to the trays or something? I would be interested in that myself. I sometimes haul bikes on the roof racks of my Avant wagon using Thule VW factory Lockjaw trays on the factory rails. The Avant hauls 5 bikes... more than the people it can comfortably haul! That back seat is pretty small, and not very wide.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

UPS guy just dropped off my new 1up single bike rack. The rack seems really nice. The only downer is that I have WRX wagon and when the rack is folded up, it completely obstructs the license plate. So I don't think I can leave the rack on the car like I had planned to unless I want to risk getting a ticket. On the other hand though, the rack is small enough to fit in the hatch. So I guess I'm still happy since I can keep the rack in the hatch.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

pwu_1 said:


> UPS guy just dropped off my new 1up single bike rack. The rack seems really nice. The only downer is that I have WRX wagon and when the rack is folded up, it completely obstructs the license plate. So I don't think I can leave the rack on the car like I had planned to unless I want to risk getting a ticket. On the other hand though, the rack is small enough to fit in the hatch. So I guess I'm still happy since I can keep the rack in the hatch.


I'd also be concerned about leaving it on all the time. That is going to make a huge mess of things if you get rear ended. Yeah, Yeah, I know... it's the guy who rear ends you's fault, but it's just going to cause more insurance hassles, possibly with the story ending in a totaled car.

That said, I often leave mine on when not in use, just 'cause I'm lazy (or the trunk is full of junk... I'm in the process of moving right now).


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

I've already had a sample of the 1up customer service and I'm impressed. I placed my order Tuesday at 4:30 after making two calls to ask questions about which to order for my needs. Most companies would try to sell the most expensive item they sell but I was pleasantly surprised when I was advised to go with the lower priced option. After placing my order for the single rack + a add-on I started to second guess myself and tried to call Wednesday morning to change to the heavy duty double rack. The guy that answer said it would be no problem to to change but asked how would I be using the rack. In the end he explained how the single has many advantages that unless I knew I was going to be carrying 4 or 5 super heavy DH bikes I would be losing a lot unnecessarily by getting the 2 inch version and spending more money. He ended the call saying that it would ship the same day, only 6 hours later I received the tracking number. It should be here next Wednesday.

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> I'd also be concerned about leaving it on all the time. That is going to make a huge mess of things if you get rear ended. Yeah, Yeah, I know... it's the guy who rear ends you's fault, but it's just going to cause more insurance hassles, possibly with the story ending in a totaled car.
> 
> That said, I often leave mine on when not in use, just 'cause I'm lazy (or the trunk is full of junk... I'm in the process of moving right now).


I've left mine on my car every day since I bought it two years ago. I did double/triple check with renters/homeowners/car insurance about the rack and it's totally covered. I figure worrying won't stop the accident or save me time taking it on and off. YMMV


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

racerwad said:


> I've left mine on my car every day since I bought it two years ago. I did double/triple check with renters/homeowners/car insurance about the rack and it's totally covered. I figure worrying won't stop the accident or save me time taking it on and off. YMMV


Yeah I'm not too worried about that either. I left my old Yakima rack on the car all the time. Only time I took it off was when I went to the car wash. 
With the 1up, the license plate is totally blocked. Like you couldn't even see the license plate at all. With my luck and being in California, I'm almost guaranteed to get pulled over and given a ticket for blocking the license plate. Anyway, no biggie though, the rack folds up compactly and fits neatly in the back.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> Yeah I'm not too worried about that either. I left my old Yakima rack on the car all the time. Only time I took it off was when I went to the car wash.
> With the 1up, the license plate is totally blocked. Like you couldn't even see the license plate at all. With my luck and being in California, I'm almost guaranteed to get pulled over and given a ticket for blocking the license plate. Anyway, no biggie though, the rack folds up compactly and fits neatly in the back.


I agree that CA + WRX + obstructed plate = hassle. Does it help to have the rack in the midway position? Probably not...


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## der_panzer (Feb 21, 2012)

Aaargh, How do you get the rack out? I installed it too deep - the ball is not retracting, so I can't pull it out of the hitch.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

Try knocking it at the ball with a rubber mallet.


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## der_panzer (Feb 21, 2012)

moldau94 said:


> Try knocking it at the ball with a rubber mallet.


Thanks, Moldau94! Couldn't get a mallet on it, but pushed the ball in with a C-clamp.


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

I considering the 1up single rack for my Mazda 3 hatchback, but one question for those that also ride road bikes. Do you have to make any adjustments when going from 26 Mt Bike to 700c Road bike?


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

FloriDave said:


> I considering the 1up single rack for my Mazda 3 hatchback, but one question for those that also ride road bikes. Do you have to make any adjustments when going from 26 Mt Bike to 700c Road bike?


No adjustments needed. I switch from a 26" to my road bike with no problem.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Rock dude said:


> No adjustments needed. I switch from a 26" to my road bike with no problem.


+1

Same here. No issue.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

ACK!

Some knucklehead hit my rack while my car was parked and broke the blue latch thingy off! :madman: Good thing it wasn't folded up, or there would have been a lot more damage. No damage to the car (I don't think). Asshat didn't leave a note or anything. I hope it at least scraped the heck out of his bumper. 

I'm going to check with 1Up to see if they can fix it, but bit of the aluminum frame is broken off. I guess it still woks for now.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> ACK!
> 
> Some knucklehead hit my rack while my car was parked and broke the blue latch thingy off! :madman: Good thing it wasn't folded up, or there would have been a lot more damage. No damage to the car (I don't think).
> 
> I'm going to check with 1Up to see if they can fix it, but bit of the aluminum frame is broken off. I guess it still woks for now.


Call 1up on Tuesday, there really good about getting you replacement parts.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

Does 1up ever have a sale or coupon code?

I have the 1-bike rack which meets my needs 99% of the time. But I'd like to get the add-on for an upcoming trip, but have a rough time spending $200 for something I only need a couple times a year.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

CharlesWe456 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?


My 2.3's have no issue at all. And by the looks of it wouldn't have any issue with 2.5's. I've seen a surly on it.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

I was just on 1up's site...noticed in one of their photos the best way to lock the bike to the rack...(sorry if this was already posted).

Notice the pins going through the arms and wheels. I expect a lock of some type on the other side.

View attachment 721114


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

That's pretty cool idea for locking the wheels, but the frame can be had with two quick releases of the wheel. I just ordered the single bike version yesterday, I figure I'll use some type cable lock for day to day. but that wheel method might be a good additional precaution if having the leave the bike and vehicle for a while.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

FloriDave said:


> That's pretty cool idea for locking the wheels, but the frame can be had with two quick releases of the wheel. I just ordered the single bike version yesterday, I figure I'll use some type cable lock for day to day. but that wheel method might be a good additional precaution if having the leave the bike and vehicle for a while.


Run a cable between the pins on the back and thread through the frame.


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

I had a flat yesterday while transporting my bike on the quick rack. I'm not really sure what happened as there was air in the tire when I loaded the bike on the car, but 20 minutes later when I got home the rear was completely flat and the quick rack bar was ~1/2" from actually touching the tire. Freaked me out but the bike stayed put on the rack. I tried pulling the bike out of the rack to see if I had just gotten lucky. Happily, I couldn't get the bike out without releasing the arms further. Despite the flat, it would not have fallen out of the rack on it's own.

I've been using my rack for a few weeks now and I have come up with one complaint. The three "safety" hex head bolts (two for the expansion rack and one that locks the rack to the hitch) are already rusting. The rest of the hardware on the rack looks perfect. Other than this small complaint, I'm loving the rack.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Wingspan said:


> I've been using my rack for a few weeks now and I have come up with one complaint. The three "safety" hex head bolts (two for the expansion rack and one that locks the rack to the hitch) are already rusting. The rest of the hardware on the rack looks perfect. Other than this small complaint, I'm loving the rack.


Call them, dude. The hardware shouldn't be rusting... Call them and calmly explain what's happening... they will absolutely make it right. Ask them if they want the rusty stuff back... they SHOULD take it back to track down why it's happening. Sounds like someone slipped in a lot of the wrong SS rod stock when their hardware was made... happens sometimes.


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

cautery said:


> Call them, dude. The hardware shouldn't be rusting... Call them and calmly explain what's happening... they will absolutely make it right. Ask them if they want the rusty stuff back... they SHOULD take it back to track down why it's happening. Sounds like someone slipped in a lot of the wrong SS rod stock when their hardware was made... happens sometimes.


I'll shoot them an email and see what they say. It's a pretty minor complaint and purely cosmetic at this point. The rack is awesome.:thumbsup:


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

Wingspan said:


> I'll shoot them an email and see what they say. It's a pretty minor complaint and purely cosmetic at this point. The rack is awesome.:thumbsup:


I have the same problem as well. I'm assuming what is rusting is bits of the machining tool flaked off while the part was being machined, thus the hardware just wasn't properly cleaned afterwords.

I doubt they will require you to ship back the old hardware. They'll make it right no problem.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

anthonylokrn said:


> I have the same problem as well. I'm assuming what is rusting is bits of the machining tool flaked off while the part was being machined, thus the hardware just wasn't properly cleaned afterwords.
> 
> I doubt they will require you to ship back the old hardware. They'll make it right no problem.


Same problem here. It almost looks like the pin isn't stainless like the rest of the bolt...

I was thinking it's normal, but sounds like I need to give them a call too. Thanks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Stainless is not rustproof either.....

J.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

anthonylokrn said:


> I have the same problem as well. I'm assuming what is rusting is bits of the machining tool flaked off while the part was being machined, thus the hardware just wasn't properly cleaned afterwords.


ditto


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Rock dude said:


> Call 1up on Tuesday, there really good about getting you replacement parts.


I talked to somebody at 1Up, and he told me the replacement part (the angled plate with the two blue locks that goes on the hitch assembly) is $30... he thinks. He has to double-check. :thumbsup:

If so, that's not too bad. I'm keeping an eye out in the 'hood for a car with matching damage. I'm going to leave a nasty-gram and shake my fist at him. :madman:


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## Rockpharmer (Jul 19, 2005)

Anyone have issues/a solution to the horrible fingernails on chalkboard squealing that pierces your eardrums and sends ice picks into your brain whenever you open the wheel arms on the rack to load a bike? Mine is about 2 years old now and everything still works solid, just that squeal is soooooo harsh. 

Or am I the single lucky one with the super special singing 1up model?


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

All I do from time to time is take a rag with clean motor oil and wipe those locking arms. That keeps rust away and the squealing at bay...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

Gotta love good old fashioned customer service! I had a reply to my email waiting in my inbox this morning along with a tracking number for the replacement hardware. 1up said the parts are usually stainless but they got a batch that wasn't and are aware of the issue. The replacements are on their way. Good job 1up!


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Mine must have been in that batch too. Hadn't thought it was worth complaining about, but I need to contact them before long anyway- one of my locking sliders is acting up. Not sure yet whether it's the spring or the bolt or something else.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Rockpharmer said:


> Anyone have issues/a solution to the horrible fingernails on chalkboard squealing that pierces your eardrums and sends ice picks into your brain whenever you open the wheel arms on the rack to load a bike? Mine is about 2 years old now and everything still works solid, just that squeal is soooooo harsh.
> 
> Or am I the single lucky one with the super special singing 1up model?


Nope... it's normal. Even though it's all aluminum and stainless and doesn't need much care, you still need to lube things every now and again.

I have this stuff called HILCO Lube in a nice pen oiler tube. It penetrates really well, and stays put, and doesn't attract as much dirt as most oils and lubes. I simply use the pen oiler to put a drop or two at every place where one part meets/moves with another... I oil the arm pivots (at every interface), the release latch pivot bolts/spring, and I also put a drop or two on top of the latch slider rails and in the pocket of the slider latch to get oil on the bottom of the slider rail. I also put some lube on the rack rotation cams and in the lock slots. Additionally, when I remove the rack.... not very often, I lube the hitch locking bolt and retention ball slot. Probably WAY over kill, but it moves like silk, and makes no noise.

I use my rack as a wash rack for the bikes, so it sees a lot of water and dirt... I keep it flushed out very well.

Finally... periodically, use the special tool to check torque on the retention bolt. I added an 1/8 turn a while back because I noticed it was slightly loose... It's rock solid again, of course.



Wingspan said:


> Gotta love good old fashioned customer service! I had a reply to my email waiting in my inbox this morning along with a tracking number for the replacement hardware. 1up said the parts are usually stainless but they got a batch that wasn't and are aware of the issue. The replacements are on their way. Good job 1up!


Told you... these guys are great... I'm going to buy another 2" version for my wife's car, and add another expansion to my truck (to get 4th slot).

Love 'em, love 'em, love 'em... 1upUSA... my favorite vendor in 20 years.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Be careful using lube on the delrin bushings. I did the same (albeit using something different - Boeshield, I think) and the plastic in the bushings and nyloc inserts did not like it. The nylocs loosened up and the bolt in the pivot backed out on one arm. Hopefully my was a fluke but I thought I should mention it.

Otherwise, I'm just another stoked 1up customer!


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

racerwad said:


> Be careful using lube on the delrin bushings. I did the same (albeit using something different - Boeshield, I think) and the plastic in the bushings and nyloc inserts did not like it. The nylocs loosened up and the bolt in the pivot backed out on one arm. Hopefully my was a fluke but I thought I should mention it.
> 
> Otherwise, I'm just another stoked 1up customer!


Good point... you always need to make sure that the lube you use is compatible with the materials on which you are making the application. HILO lube is compatible with nylon/Delrin and all HDPE materials.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Well there you go! I'll have to look into that. Thanks.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

racerwad said:


> Be careful using lube on the delrin bushings. I did the same (albeit using something different - Boeshield, I think) and the plastic in the bushings and nyloc inserts did not like it. The nylocs loosened up and the bolt in the pivot backed out on one arm. Hopefully my was a fluke but I thought I should mention it.
> 
> Otherwise, I'm just another stoked 1up customer!


A wax lube might be better. But, even that stuff has the liquid suspension stuff that might cause issues with the Durlin bushings.

BTW, 1Up got back to me about the broken base plate part with the locks attached... $35 shipped. Not too bad.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> A wax lube might be better. But, even that stuff has the liquid suspension stuff that might cause issues with the Durlin bushings.


I use this stuff and it works great. I find all kinds of uses for it actually.

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

J_Westy said:


> I mounted ours up today. As others have said it's aluminum sculpture.
> 
> To be honest it's heavier than I expected, but it is solid.
> 
> ...


Here's the aux taillight harness I soldered up. I used some flush mount Optronix lamps from the local auto store and Velcro them to the rack:










Velcro:










Taillights:










Brakelights:


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

nice wiring job westy!...1up should market a product like that.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Wingspan said:


> Gotta love good old fashioned customer service! I had a reply to my email waiting in my inbox this morning along with a tracking number for the replacement hardware. 1up said the parts are usually stainless but they got a batch that wasn't and are aware of the issue. The replacements are on their way. Good job 1up!


Same here. This is a stand up company for sure.



On Sep 10 said:


> You're correct. This is not normal and our hardware company messed up on this. How many replacement bolts do you need? I will send them out today.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

I have the rusty bolt problem too...but since it's cosmetic I wasn't going to bother. 

But now I'm going to get an add-on so I'll ask if they'll throw a few in that shipment. 

Also for those that have had the problem...is it possible to replace the locknut? The one that controls the locking ball mechanism?


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## rz79 (Jan 19, 2011)

Just FYI... The rack (and my bike) were perfectly stable at 105mph... I was in Mexico, and running from drug lords. True story, on the MPH's . Had an interesting interaction with some guys today while traveling had to make a little distance


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## armoredsaint (Aug 8, 2012)

J_Westy said:


> Same here. This is a stand up company for sure.


correct me if i'm wrong, but rust like that sometimes comes from the tool instead of the screw, because the tool is made of metal and can leave small metal fragments on it - therefore the rust. learned that from buying Wera products

that's why i own stainlesssteel screwdrivers etc. for some stuff - YMMV


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I'm sure you're right, but in this case it sounds like 1-Up has confirmed that some of these bolts didn't use stainless for the pin, and in that photo it definitely looks like the rust is concentrated on the pin.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

About the obstructed tail lights in the picture, most people running just two bike should not need to add the additional lights in the rear correct? When did most if you with the rust problem purchase your racks? I just got mine last week and haven't used it yet. I'll probably not get much use out of it until next year and wonder if 1up will be as helpful if I run into the problem later.

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


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## quelocotony (Dec 3, 2006)

My 1up Rack + 1 Add On held up well during a 1,200 mile move from TX to AZ on my car which I was towing behind a 26' Uhaul Truck. 

Even after a 2 tire blow-out on the Uhaul and nearly swerving off the road, my trusty 1up Rack cradled my 2 Niners without incident.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

quelocotony said:


> My 1up Rack + 1 Add On held up well during a 1,200 mile move from TX to AZ on my car which I was towing behind a 26' Uhaul Truck.
> 
> Even after a 2 tire blow-out on the Uhaul and nearly swerving off the road, my trusty 1up Rack cradled my 2 Niners without incident.


But what about surface rust?!?!?!? LOL

But seriously, glad you made it through that unscathed.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

For those using U-Locks to lock the rack to the hitch what size did you get? I'm about to place an amazon order and don't have access to the rack right now...Thanks


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## S1000RR (Sep 14, 2012)

J_Westy said:


> Here's the aux taillight harness I soldered up. I used some flush mount Optronix lamps from the local auto store and Velcro them to the rack:
> 
> Velcro:
> 
> ...


looks nice...


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

J_Westy said:


> Same here. This is a stand up company for sure.


Replacement bolts came in 3 days - way to go 1upusa!


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## Prexus2005 (Mar 18, 2005)

holy spam bot!


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## 7daysaweek (May 7, 2008)

I wouldn't call it an exhaustive search but I've tried to research and haven't found a good description of how this rack physically attaches to the hitch. Is it literally a ball that pushes into the side of the receiver tube and just uses that to hold the rack in? This rack looks great but it makes me nervous not having something like a solid hitch pin holding the rack on the car.

I guess I don't get how it doesn't eventually loosen and just fall off. It obviously doesn't cause this rack gets great reviews but I feel like I'm missing something...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

It's a jack screw that forces a ball up into the corner of the hitch. That, in turn forces the other half of the rack into the opposing two sides of the receiver. It's very secure and has no wobble either. You could probably tow a trailer on that attachment.

Think about it, there is very little fore and aft tension on a rack. All you need to do it hold it in place. This arrangement does that in spades. There is nothing to worry about.

The reason your hitch has a pin to go through it is because the receiver is designed to *pull* a lot of weight. For a 2" hitch, that's something like 6000 lbs or more in a lateral direction. That is not the problem the rack is designed to solve and, obviously, that's never going to occur.

J.


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## Julianne482 (Sep 28, 2012)

To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I'm running 2.4 Trail Kings and they fit fine.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

7daysaweek said:


> I wouldn't call it an exhaustive search but I've tried to research and haven't found a good description of how this rack physically attaches to the hitch. Is it literally a ball that pushes into the side of the receiver tube and just uses that to hold the rack in? This rack looks great but it makes me nervous not having something like a solid hitch pin holding the rack on the car.
> 
> I guess I don't get how it doesn't eventually loosen and just fall off. It obviously doesn't cause this rack gets great reviews but I feel like I'm missing something...


Yes it is held in with the ball. I have checked the torque on the ball and never found it to be loose. I think it is a secure installation. The ball removes the normal slop in the hitch to receiver interface. In addition the unit comes with a Velcro strap that acts as a backup to the ball. There is not much force trying to remove the rack from the receiver, not like towing a trailer that needs a hitch pin.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

7daysaweek said:


> I wouldn't call it an exhaustive search but I've tried to research and haven't found a good description of how this rack physically attaches to the hitch. Is it literally a ball that pushes into the side of the receiver tube and just uses that to hold the rack in? This rack looks great but it makes me nervous not having something like a solid hitch pin holding the rack on the car.
> 
> I guess I don't get how it doesn't eventually loosen and just fall off. It obviously doesn't cause this rack gets great reviews but I feel like I'm missing something...


I have taken my car with rack and bike on some gnarly off-road in CO and never had an issue with it coming loose or vibrate the bike of the rack. The rack holds on like glue on both the bike and the hitch. :thumbsup:
Previous posters explained well how it holds on but one more detail that helps is the relatively fine thread the bolt has that pushes the ball into the corner. Fine thread is less susceptible to vibration, just like the fine threads on a lathe, and thus it will stay in place better once set.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Julianne482 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?


Hans Dampfs and High Roller IIs fit with room to spare.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

OscarW said:


> *I have taken my car with rack and bike on some gnarly off-road in CO and never had an issue with it coming loose or vibrate the bike of the rack. The rack holds on like glue on both the bike and the hitch*. :thumbsup:
> Previous posters explained well how it holds on but one more detail that helps is the relatively fine thread the bolt has that pushes the ball into the corner. Fine thread is less susceptible to vibration, just like the fine threads on a lathe, and thus it will stay in place better once set.


My experience as well. 10,000 miles on mine. My experience is that it never loosens when tightened. I check it 50 miles after putting it on and never had it get looser.

J.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

And if you're worried about it that much, use a mini U-Lock to lock the rack to the hitch itself. Even if my ball mechanism fails, it will only slip a few cm before being caught by the U-Lock, so it's not going anywhere. Ever.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I can confidently say that my rack has never moved.

J.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> My experience as well. 10,000 miles on mine. My experience is that it never loosens when tightened. I check it 50 miles after putting it on and never had it get looser.
> 
> J.


I posted my experience a while ago but nobody seemed to notice. My rack loosened up on about 8 miles of washboard road. Not to the point of falling out but I definitely could re-tighten the screw over 1/2 turn. To those that say the rack has no wobble I disagree. When fully tightened I can wobble the rack back and forth a bit. Other posters have said this is by design so it doesn't shake your bikes all around while driving over bumps.

I have the smaller hitch version with 2" adapter on a stock 2000 4Runner hitch carrying 2 bikes. It may be a small incompatibility between my particular hitch and the way this rack tightens? The hitch appears to be in pristine condition, I have only ever hauled a trailer once and have used other bike racks prior to the 1UP without issue. I am leaving it on the vehicle as I drive around throughout the week to see if it continues to happen.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I noticed your post and I also have commented on a similar experience. I have almost 100k on my rack right now and I've sent it back to 1up to get some of the internal components replaced. It's a mechanical device so things wear out. Whatever.

I'm not sure what you mean by wobble, but compared to other racks I've used, the 1up has none. Of course, when it's loaded with multiple bikes, there is flex in the system but there's nothing that can be done about that. I've had bikes on my rack bump into the car's spoiler when I've hit bumps on fireroads. In those circumstances, the flex was due to driving way too fast for the conditions.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

I will try to explain what I mean by wobble. After tightening the bolt as far as it will go I can grasp the edge of one of the trays between thumb and forefinger and move it up and down. You can see the rack moving in the trailer hitch ever so slightly. This translates to the edges of the rack trays swaying a bit. I'm not trying to say the rack does not feel secure when fully tightened but I wouldn't describe the rack and hitch acting as one, there is some small amount of play there which lets the rack wobble. I am wondering if I should have gone with the 2" rack version or if my hitch is somehow not 100% square or ever so slightly larger than 2". 

I like the rack and am hoping it just needs a break in period. I have only had mine for a few months so I know the mechanics should not be worn out.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

WHen I say "wobble" i mean that there is no slop or wobble at the receiver/rack interface. The rack will move up and down due to aluminum cantilevered out from the car and the normal springiness of Aluminum but is significantly less than that of steel.

If your receiver has any debris or flakes of corrosion in it (very common) then its possible that when you tighten it down, you may need to retighten. I'm pretty careful to make sure mine is clean and tighten it snugly and have never had to retighten.

I also have the 1.25" version with the 2" adaptor piece on it.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Henrythewound said:


> I will try to explain what I mean by wobble. After tightening the bolt as far as it will go I can grasp the edge of one of the trays between thumb and forefinger and move it up and down. You can see the rack moving in the trailer hitch ever so slightly. This translates to the edges of the rack trays swaying a bit. I'm not trying to say the rack does not feel secure when fully tightened but I wouldn't describe the rack and hitch acting as one, there is some small amount of play there which lets the rack wobble. I am wondering if I should have gone with the 2" rack version or if my hitch is somehow not 100% square or ever so slightly larger than 2".
> 
> I like the rack and am hoping it just needs a break in period. I have only had mine for a few months so I know the mechanics should not be worn out.


I think what you describe is normal and is largely a function of the cantilevered arm out from the car. As well, the ball is back in the receiver a ways and presses the opposing side into the receiver corner. The tiny space between the edge of the rack and the ball is levered up a slight bit when you move the rack. However, at the ball in the receiver there is no movement and certainly not fore and aft. The tolerances on the receiver - which is not exactly a precision piece of hardware, could also be part of it. All of it, I'd not worry about.

In fact, if it bothered you, I'd just shim it before you tighten it. Find a thin piece of metal and insert that into the receiver under the rack before you tighten it. But, in general, I'd just not worry about it.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Henrythewound said:


> I will try to explain what I mean by wobble. After tightening the bolt as far as it will go I can grasp the edge of one of the trays between thumb and forefinger and move it up and down. You can see the rack moving in the trailer hitch ever so slightly. This translates to the edges of the rack trays swaying a bit. I'm not trying to say the rack does not feel secure when fully tightened but I wouldn't describe the rack and hitch acting as one, there is some small amount of play there which lets the rack wobble. I am wondering if I should have gone with the 2" rack version or if my hitch is somehow not 100% square or ever so slightly larger than 2".
> 
> I like the rack and am hoping it just needs a break in period. I have only had mine for a few months so I know the mechanics should not be worn out.


On both my hitches (2" and 1 1/4") my 1 1/4" 1up is definitely secure with the hitch. I can unload the suspension by lifting on either the rack or the bikes. As John mentioned, there is normal flex in the rack when you lift/press on the furthest most point from the car, but that's not an inherent flaw. Everything flexes.

The rack is just a mechanical device and so there is no break in period like there is with a pair of shoes. Have you eliminated the possibility of the hitch not being securely attached to the vehicle itself?


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

I'm not particularly worried about the wobble I described, I was just attempting to clarify what I meant because some comments suggested there was no play in the rack at all. 

My hitch is secure, the only thing I am concerned about is the tightening bolt loosening up during transport. I will be driving on the same washboard/bad road this weekend so I'll tighten it down real well and see if it loosens again this time. 

So far my experience has been the bolt will loosen up a bit in a short period of time on bad roads and also over the course of a couple days of in town driving. I assume it is the motion of the rack moving within the hitch while driving around that is causing the gradual loosening.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

Henrythewound said:


> I will try to explain what I mean by wobble. After tightening the bolt as far as it will go I can grasp the edge of one of the trays between thumb and forefinger and move it up and down. You can see the rack moving in the trailer hitch ever so slightly. This translates to the edges of the rack trays swaying a bit. I'm not trying to say the rack does not feel secure when fully tightened but I wouldn't describe the rack and hitch acting as one, there is some small amount of play there which lets the rack wobble. I am wondering if I should have gone with the 2" rack version or if my hitch is somehow not 100% square or ever so slightly larger than 2".
> 
> I like the rack and am hoping it just needs a break in period. I have only had mine for a few months so I know the mechanics should not be worn out.


Do you have the unit that fits 1 ½ and 2 in receivers? Or do you have an adaptor between the rack and your receiver? There is no way that there can be movement between the rack and the receiver with the ball tighten down. If there is movement there is something wrong with your receiver. Do you have any pictures of you installation?


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

I have the 1 1/4 - 2" single Rack 1Up makes and the 2nd bike addon. The install is standard, no adapter except the L-shaped piece of Al 1Up includes to make it fit a 2". I will try to take pics but I think it's pretty normal


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## GhostRing (Feb 29, 2012)

on my 4Runner, the first install put the ball BEYOND the end of the backside of the receiver tube.

If you haven't, look underneath to see if the 1UP is too far in. (insert "she said" joke).


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Henrythewound said:


> I have the 1 1/4 - 2" single Rack 1Up makes and the 2nd bike addon. The install is standard, no adapter except the L-shaped piece of Al 1Up includes to make it fit a 2". I will try to take pics but I think it's pretty normal


I have the same set-up as you and have zero movement within the hitch from the bikerack. The bike does move bit in the rack driving around and this is normal, as all materials flex a little. To date I am not aware of anyone losing a bike while driving around. YMMV


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## BitterDave (Nov 27, 2007)

Has anyone noticed any stability difference between the 1.25" and 2" hitch versions? I only plan on carrying two bikes, but foresee the possibility of offroading with the bikes and I'm a little concerned about the bouncing.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

See post 1257...I have the 1 1/4" with the adapter for my 2" hitch.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

BitterDave said:


> Has anyone noticed any stability difference between the 1.25" and 2" hitch versions? I only plan on carrying two bikes, but foresee the possibility of offroading with the bikes and I'm a little concerned about the bouncing.


Don't worry about it. 2 bikes will be super solid. I have the old style version that can go in either the 1.25" or the 2" hitch and we've driven 10,000 miles with 4 bikes on it - no issues. I can positively tell you that with two bikes on it, it's going to be very solid.

J.


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## quelocotony (Dec 3, 2006)

JohnJ80 said:


> Don't worry about it. 2 bikes will be super solid. I have the old style version that can go in either the 1.25" or the 2" hitch and we've driven 10,000 miles with 4 bikes on it - no issues. I can positively tell you that with two bikes on it, it's going to be very solid.
> 
> J.


100% agree. I have the 1up and Yakima roof rack on my car for when I carry 3+ bikes. On a recent trip, my Yakima Sprocket Rocket came loose while driving thru some rough stuff. The 1up, on the other hand with 2 bikes was rock solid.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

I don't feel like reading through this whole thread and doing searches didn't seem to help. 

I am thinking about getting this rack and 95% or more of the time it is just a single bike that I am hauling. So I am leaning towards the single carrier and buying an add-on when I see that I need it. However, I see myself going on road trips and possibly wanting to take up to 4 bikes. Will the single rack support up to 4 bikes with the add ons if all of the bikes are sub 30 pound bikes and more around the 25 pound mark? I've seen a lot of pictures of heavy DH bikes on the racks. 

What is the maximum add ons for the single rack? If I had to I honestly could probably only go to 3 bike rack and in the ultra rare occasion that I had to haul a 4th bike, to just take off the wheels, and break it down and put it inside the car.

According to the website, they list the 2 bike rack as "when you want to take up to 4 bikes", but they don't put a limitation on the single 1up.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

tooclosetosee said:


> I don't feel like reading through this whole thread and doing searches didn't seem to help.


Not a good start...



tooclosetosee said:


> What is the maximum add ons for the single rack? If I had to I honestly could probably only go to 3 bike rack and in the ultra rare occasion that I had to haul a 4th bike, to just take off the wheels, and break it down and put it inside the car.
> 
> According to the website, they list the 2 bike rack as "when you want to take up to 4 bikes", but they don't put a limitation on the single 1up.


Per the Quik Rack Add On page: "This 1 bike Add-On mounts to the 1 bike Hitch system or another Add-On for up to a 3 bike carrier!". 1UPUSA.com :: Add On Silver

And per the Double Bicycle Quik Rack page: "It was designed for people who are interested or planning to carry up to 4 bikes." 1UPUSA.com :: Double Quik Rack Silver

A quick email to 1up would answer your question very definitively. It doesn't really matter what the internet forum thinks, 1up are the ones who make the thing. They are fast to respond and very helpful. It is my understanding that the 2 bike model is the one you need. I spend most of my time with one bike on my 2 bike carrier and I do not find the extra tray to be a problem.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

If you're going to use it mostly to carry one bike, I'd recommend the one bike carrier and do the add ons for a capacity of three. The advantage of the single is it tilts up nicely, and compact when you aren't carrying a bike and want to leave it on the car. Fwiw, there are pictures on this post of a guy with a Volvo using the single and expanded out to four bikes.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

Thanks for the info, I didn't see that on the add on page. 

I guess I could buy the single and in the rare occurrence if I really needed to haul 4 bikes routinely, then I could sell the single and buy a double. Or just chance it and expand out to 4.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tooclosetosee said:


> I don't feel like reading through this whole thread and doing searches didn't seem to help.
> 
> I am thinking about getting this rack and 95% or more of the time it is just a single bike that I am hauling. So I am leaning towards the single carrier and buying an add-on when I see that I need it. However, I see myself going on road trips and possibly wanting to take up to 4 bikes. Will the single rack support up to 4 bikes with the add ons if all of the bikes are sub 30 pound bikes and more around the 25 pound mark? I've seen a lot of pictures of heavy DH bikes on the racks.
> 
> ...


1UpUSA won't recommend it but I have the 1.25" version with it's 2" adaptor when it was the 4 bike rack. I've done 10K miles with it with 4 30lb mtn bikes on it stuck in a 2" receiver. It's been just fine.

What I think happened is that apparently the 1.25" receiver (not rack) cannot take the load of 4 bikes so they had to down rate it. I think it would be just fine but you would not get them to say so because of the 1.25" industry hitch capacity rating.

J.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

I think you hit the nail on the head here. That is the reason I have a 2" hitch on my Subaru Outback and not the 1 1/4 factory POS. The hardware that comes with the heavier hitch is stronger and can handle any load. Just keep within the load limits of the car!!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

THat's what 1UpUSA pretty much told me when I called to ask, "Why is my rack ok for 4 bikes but the identical one that you sell now is only good for 3?" The answer was that if someone used it on a 1.25" receiver then fully loaded it could exceed the specs of the 1.25" receiver but it wouldn't for a 2". So, in other words, if you put on the 2" adaptor, it's suddenly a much more capable rack (just kidding). It's just protection from fools.

J.


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## DrDrilz (Aug 27, 2012)

Ordered a quick rack tues morning and should be delivered to Ga on Friday. Not bad
Hope I made the right decision over a kuat


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## beanbag (Nov 20, 2005)

Hello folks, 

I did not read thru this thread, but I hope this is some useful info.
I called them today, and they said they can make a custom version of the 1 bike carrier that has a 2" hitch attachment for $35 extra. This is for those of you out there that look at the 1.25" version and go :skep: is that really strong enough? It can still only carry up to 3 bikes though.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

An update for anyone following along. This weekend I carried 2 bikes up the same ~8 mile rough washboard rocky road that caused my rack to loosen the first time. This time the rack was so loose I could pull it out of the hitch without loosening the tightening bolt. I felt lucky the rack did not fall out. I have contacted 1UP and they were very quick to facilitate the return process. They mentioned they don't know why this would be happening as they never hear complaints about their racks loosening up. Their customer service has been great, no complaints there. I am curious to see if they can discern any flaws in the tightening mechanism on my rack. Based on all the overwhelmingly positive reviews I have to think my rack was a fluke but we'll see what 1UP says.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Let us know what they say. It's got to be something wrong. 

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

beanbag said:


> Hello folks,
> 
> I did not read thru this thread, but I hope this is some useful info.
> I called them today, and they said they can make a custom version of the 1 bike carrier that has a 2" hitch attachment for $35 extra. This is for those of you out there that look at the 1.25" version and go :skep: *is that really strong enough? * It can still only carry up to 3 bikes though.


Yes. It's the receiver spec not the rack. I carry 4 MTBs on mine no sweat.

J.


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## minh (May 23, 2004)

beanbag said:


> Hello folks,
> 
> I did not read thru this thread, but I hope this is some useful info.
> I called them today, and they said they can make a custom version of the 1 bike carrier that has a 2" hitch attachment for $35 extra. This is for those of you out there that look at the 1.25" version and go :skep: is that really strong enough? It can still only carry up to 3 bikes though.


I prolly woulda paid the $35 for this. oh well- here's mine (and I agree with everyone- this thing is made very well):


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## Hallett6103 (May 9, 2010)

I recently after ALOT of research bought a 1Up rack.Let me tell you it is a quality piece of equipment and works great.Its nice when you call a company to talk with them you talk to the owner.


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## clewttu (May 16, 2007)

So my Kuat NV was rear ended and totalled, think I am gonna try the 1up this go round (really liked the NV though fwiw). 

So one question for the owners of the black models, does it get super hot in the summer? Or just normal (vague I know, but some black metals will be scalding hot when left in the sun)

I live in TX and basically keep the rack on 24/7 so black is probably not ideal...but my car is black (also not ideal) so Ill prob go that route for aesthetics


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## Maldevyne (Oct 11, 2008)

I read through this entire thread. I don't think I have ever seen such a positive response to any product I've researched. In fact, the only real negative criticism seems to come from people that have something else. I ordered the single rack + 1 add on this morning (Monday). They said it would ship today and I would see it on Friday.


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## Henrythewound (Jul 1, 2007)

An update for those of you following along. I returned my 1UP rack due to loosening in the receiver. I was using the 1 1/4" with 2" adapter in my stock 2000 4Runner hitch. The rack would loosen up during in town driving over a couple of days and within 30 minutes of rough road driving. 

1UP had a look and didn't notice anything obviously wrong with the rack, just that there appeared to be more wear on the edges of the 2" adapter than they normally see. They mentioned the radius of the corners on the adapter are too sharp for certain receivers which can hinder the rack's ability to seat properly.

I opted for a refund rather than try the 2" version. 1UP sent me a return shipping label at no cost to me and I didn't want them to have to do that again if the 2" rack still wouldn't hold tight. They were great about the return and kept me up to speed on what was going on. I'm glad everyone else's racks are working for them but if you have a stock Toyota 2" hitch from around 2000 maybe think about just going for the 2" from the beginning. The smaller version with adapter did not work for me. The only reason I went with the smaller mount in the first place was so I could have only 1 tray on the vehicle if I felt like it. If 1UP offered a 2" single rack with addon I would have certainly gone that route. Someone mentioned in this thread they (1UP) might be willing to offer this if you ask and pay a little extra.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I drove over 100 miles of rough dirt roads with the rack this weekend and not one problem. 
Plus I don't baby my FJ on the trails. It doesn't look like it but my FJ has over 5k invested in the suspension so it can handle the rough stuff.

The 1up rack is by far the best rack I have ever owned!


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^^ Nice set-up!!


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## LittleBuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

If anybody in Tampa Bay, FL wants a 2 bike 2" 1UP rack let me know, I just bought a truck and won't need mine anymore


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Quick question. I have a friend with the 1 1/4" hitch version with 3 fat friendly racks on it. The rack bounces quite a bit with that much weight (bike are all at least 35 lbs per). Seems to be solid and no issues, but I was wondering if I get a 2" hitch version and put a 1 1/2" to 2" expander on my car if that would likely give more stability.

I ask because I believe the bouncing comes from flex in the aluminum 1 1/4" hitch insert and a solid steal 1 1/4" to 2" expander would, in my initial thoughts, be very similar to just having a 2" hitch on the car.

I know the expansion piece (Amazon.com: Curt Receiver Adapter Sleeve Adapts 1 1/4 inch to 2 inch: Automotive) will add 6 1/4 or 10 inches to the space between the rack and the car, but I don't think that would be an issue. Any thoughts on this?


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## DrDrilz (Aug 27, 2012)

jn35646 said:


> Quick question. I have a friend with the 1 1/4" hitch version with 3 fat friendly racks on it. The rack bounces quite a bit with that much weight (bike are all at least 35 lbs per). Seems to be solid and no issues, but I was wondering if I get a 2" hitch version and put a 1 1/2" to 2" expander on my car if that would likely give more stability.
> 
> I ask because I believe the bouncing comes from flex in the aluminum 1 1/4" hitch insert and a solid steal 1 1/4" to 2" expander would, in my initial thoughts, be very similar to just having a 2" hitch on the car.
> 
> I know the expansion piece will add 6 1/4 or 10 inches to the space between the rack and the car, but I don't think that would be an issue. Any thoughts on this?


i think you're going get a lot more movement in the rack if you do this. the 2" adapter sleeve is not going to be snug inside the 1.25" hitch. you would lose the whole advantage of the 1up rack and its tight fit. Plus the added length may add more torque to the hitch itself IMO.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

jn35646 said:


> Quick question. I have a friend with the 1 1/4" hitch version with 3 fat friendly racks on it. The rack bounces quite a bit with that much weight (bike are all at least 35 lbs per). Seems to be solid and no issues, but I was wondering if I get a 2" hitch version and put a 1 1/2" to 2" expander on my car if that would likely give more stability.
> 
> I ask because I believe the bouncing comes from flex in the aluminum 1 1/4" hitch insert and a solid steal 1 1/4" to 2" expander would, in my initial thoughts, be very similar to just having a 2" hitch on the car.
> 
> I know the expansion piece (Amazon.com: Curt Receiver Adapter Sleeve Adapts 1 1/4 inch to 2 inch: Automotive) will add 6 1/4 or 10 inches to the space between the rack and the car, but I don't think that would be an issue. Any thoughts on this?


I would not do this.

I recently replaced my hitch because the Curt brand one allowed the rack to sit closer to the bumper. Basically, my old hitch had a "blind hole" that the rack bottomed out on. The Curt hitch has a thru-hole which allows me to mount the rack as close as the bumper allows. It made a huge difference in "bounce". The closer the better.

Rather than an extension, which I think is counterproductive, I would look at a strap. Curt makes one and u can buy on etrailer.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks for the advice! I spoke with someone at 1up a few minutes ago and he also advised against going from 1 1/4" to 2" and suggested getting the 1 1/4" version and selling it to swap when/if I have a 2" hitch some day.

I'll look into the stabilizing strap, that looks like a good idea.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Oh, the rack is plenty strong*



beanbag said:


> Hello folks,
> 
> I did not read thru this thread, but I hope this is some useful info.
> I called them today, and they said they can make a custom version of the 1 bike carrier that has a 2" hitch attachment for $35 extra. This is for those of you out there that look at the 1.25" version and go :skep: is that really strong enough? It can still only carry up to 3 bikes though.


... it's the hitch that is the limitation, as 1Up is saying. I can see they don't want to be liable if somebody rips their spare tire well off their hatchback because they put 4 DH bikes on it and jumped the car down the hills of San Francisco, Steve McQueen style.

IIRC, there are two kinds of 1 1/4" hitches. The primary difference is the rated capacity. The hitch on my car looks pretty dang bulletproof, but I've seen some that looked like they were just simple 14ga steel stock, like a good solid bonk from a big rock kicked up and could dent it.


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## Devin's Dad (Nov 2, 2010)

I just bought the single hitch mount rack with the second bike add-on. This thing is awesome. If you want quality and function and to be able to use your SUV's hatch w/o folding the rack out of the way each time, this is the rack for you. I have had a bunch of racks over the years and this is by far the best in design and quality.

I spend a good amount of money on my bikes and ride a lot so for me I want quality and ease of use. I get both with this rack and I feel the price is a bargain. I don't like having to take the rack off when not in use. This rack folds up out of the way. 

One thing I don't see in the posts is about the parts that make up the rack. I am an engineer and a hobbyist welder and metal fabricator so maybe I notice this kind of stuff more than your average joe. Compare the quality of materials and craftsmanship of this rack to anything out there. I know Thule and Yak make good racks. However, they don't make this kind of quality and they definitely don't make a hitch rack that basically disappears until you fold it out to use it.


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## LFT_PFT (Oct 23, 2012)

*Road,Bikes in Rack*

I have not been able to find any comments on how road bikes (700 x 23) do on the 1up rack? Clearly, they do well with mtn bikes with lots of tire rubber.

Are road bikes just as stable in the rack as mtn bikes?


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## equalme (Sep 8, 2010)

LFT_PFT said:


> I have not been able to find any comments on how road bikes (700 x 23) do on the 1up rack? Clearly, they do well with mtn bikes with lots of tire rubber.
> 
> Are road bikes just as stable in the rack as mtn bikes?


Grips the tires the same way...

There's been a few comments here and there in this thread about 700c tires. Search RBR as well for a few comments on the 1UP.

In my personal experience, the road bike swayed more due to less rubber contact, but the bike still isn't going anywhere.


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## LFT_PFT (Oct 23, 2012)

anthonylokrn said:


> Grips the tires the same way...
> 
> There's been a few comments here and there in this thread about 700c tires. Search RBR as well for a few comments on the 1UP.
> 
> In my personal experience, the road bike swayed more due to less rubber contact, but the bike still isn't going anywhere.


I couldn't find any specific comments about 700c tires in the rack on Road Bike Review or this thread....

I want to use the rack for both mtn bikes and road bikes on a regular basis. Lots of good feeback and pics with rack and mtn bikes, just curious about how the rack does with 'dainty' road bikes.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

LFT_PFT said:


> I have not been able to find any comments on how road bikes (700 x 23) do on the 1up rack? Clearly, they do well with mtn bikes with lots of tire rubber.
> 
> Are road bikes just as stable in the rack as mtn bikes?


They work fine if not better. The rack will have less up and down movement too since they are considerably lighter.

J.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

LFT_PFT said:


> I couldn't find any specific comments about 700c tires in the rack on Road Bike Review or this thread....
> 
> I want to use the rack for both mtn bikes and road bikes on a regular basis. Lots of good feeback and pics with rack and mtn bikes, just curious about how the rack does with 'dainty' road bikes.


If you arent in a rush wait til next week. I ordered mine earlier this week and will be delivered next week. Ill throw on my road bike with 700-23 tires


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

We took 4 road bikes on a 2500 mile round trip last year on the 1UpUSA rack. No issues whatsoever. Nothing to worry about. All the bikes had on 700-21 or 23 tires (tubulars).

J.


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## heppcat (Sep 21, 2010)

LFT_PFT said:


> I couldn't find any specific comments about 700c tires in the rack on Road Bike Review or this thread....
> 
> I want to use the rack for both mtn bikes and road bikes on a regular basis. Lots of good feeback and pics with rack and mtn bikes, just curious about how the rack does with 'dainty' road bikes.


I use my 1up to transport both mountain and road bikes and it works fine with either. There is no adjusting needed, just put whatever bike you want on the rack and close the arms.


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## DrDrilz (Aug 27, 2012)

ive had the opportunity to use the 1up rack for a couple of weeks now and it seems to work well. it literally takes 30 seconds to secure the bike to the car. 30 seconds to take the bike off too. no ned for a bunch of cords or straps. although it is pretty stable, there is some minor side to side movement in the front tire at highway speeds (i can see the handlebars moving in the rearview mirror). very sturdy build on the rack. it makes other racks feel like toys. i have had to retighten the rack in the hitch just a little bit (not even a 1/10 of a turn with the wrench). it never was loose. before this rack, i used the thule raceway trunk rack but that one put dents in the bumper.


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

I've had this rack a month or so now, and love it. Expensive, but worth it.


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

I just got my extension to carry a second bike on my Quickrack. It's everything the rack itself is, easy on/off, secure, well made, blah, blah, blah...


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

LFT_PFT said:


> I couldn't find any specific comments about 700c tires in the rack on Road Bike Review or this thread....
> 
> I want to use the rack for both mtn bikes and road bikes on a regular basis. Lots of good feeback and pics with rack and mtn bikes, just curious about how the rack does with 'dainty' road bikes.


I just ordered one myself.

I got rid of my Yakima Holdup, which works fine for knobby tires (ie my MTB & Cross bike), but the arm does not hold onto my road bike tires too well (700x25c, Conti Grand Prix 4-seasons)


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## gamb (Nov 21, 2010)

Ordered mine yesterday. Got tired of the saris blocking my tag and tail lights. Paid the extra for black b/c my car is black


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Rock dude said:


> I drove over 100 miles of rough dirt roads with the rack this weekend and not one problem.
> Plus I don't baby my FJ on the trails. It doesn't look like it but my FJ has over 5k invested in the suspension so it can handle the rough stuff.
> 
> The 1up rack is by far the best rack I have ever owned!


@ Rock dude: nice! :thumbsup: Is that a 1 1/4" rack with a 2" adapter or is that a single rack made with a 2" hitch bar?


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## Lenny7 (Sep 1, 2008)

Just got mine. Love it, but what is that velcro strap for?


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

albertdc said:


> @ Rock dude: nice! :thumbsup: Is that a 1 1/4" rack with a 2" adapter or is that a single rack made with a 2" hitch bar?


It's a single rack made with a 2" hitch bar.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I just ordered a single add-on for my rack on Sunday, it was already shipped out on Monday.
Got to love this company!


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Lenny7 said:


> Just got mine. Love it, but what is that velcro strap for?


Extreme paranoia.


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## Jarlaxle (Feb 25, 2012)

DrDrilz said:


> ive had the opportunity to use the 1up rack for a couple of weeks now and it seems to work well. it literally takes 30 seconds to secure the bike to the car. 30 seconds to take the bike off too. no ned for a bunch of cords or straps. although it is pretty stable, there is some minor side to side movement in the front tire at highway speeds (i can see the handlebars moving in the rearview mirror). very sturdy build on the rack. it makes other racks feel like toys. i have had to retighten the rack in the hitch just a little bit (not even a 1/10 of a turn with the wrench). it never was loose. before this rack, i used the thule raceway trunk rack but that one put dents in the bumper.


Congrats... nice GT3 in the garage too :thumbsup:


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

Jarlaxle said:


> Congrats... nice GT3 in the garage too :thumbsup:


Don't forget the GTR in the other garage


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## Jarlaxle (Feb 25, 2012)

sand wedge said:


> Don't forget the GTR in the other garage


Yeah, I noticed that after my post. Would love to see those two dicing up the track against each other...


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## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

Anyone experience a lot of wiggle with a bike in the 1Up rack? I've got the single 1.25" rack, and it seems to move a lot more than I would have thought. The hitch is securely mounted, the rack bolt is tight. Maybe I'm over scrutinizing it, I don't know how much is normal I guess.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

I personally think it has a lot of flex/wiggle. Especially with 3 heavier bikes (think Moonlanders and Pugs). I mentioned that previously and even called 1up. They were quick to imply that I over exaggerate and the perceived movement is because it is so far back behind the car. However, I know that you don't perceive extra movement that way, the rack is/should be one with the frame of the car, so it shouldn't seem to move at all really.

That being said, I've hauled 3 heavy bikes all over the country on a 1.25" 1up rack and never had a problem, just some bouncing when you hit odd bumps and dips in the road. They are very confident in the product and will replace it if it failed.


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## Lenny7 (Sep 1, 2008)

rob1035 said:


> Anyone experience a lot of wiggle with a bike in the 1Up rack? I've got the single 1.25" rack, and it seems to move a lot more than I would like. The hitch is securely mounted, the rack bolt is tight. Maybe I'm over scrutinizing it, I don't know how much is normal I guess.


Are you talking about flex from the rack or play in the hitch itself? Unless you make a rack out of concrete I think the rack itself will have some give. A certain amount is healthy, like a tall building swaying in the wind. Kind of creepy but necessary. Mine doesn't seem to be excessive.


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## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

OK, fair enough. It doesn't seem all that excessive, but like you said, its a little creepy.


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## Maldevyne (Oct 11, 2008)

jn35646 said:


> They were quick to imply that I over exaggerate and the perceived movement is because it is so far back behind the car. However, I know that you don't perceive extra movement that way, the rack is/should be one with the frame of the car, so it shouldn't seem to move at all really.


The rack might be "one with the frame of the car" but you are not. It has been discussed before. One other explanation is that you have already gone over the bump and started to stabilize while the rear of the car is just hitting the bump. Both these contribute to the "exaggeration." Many have said that when observed from a different vehicle the perceived movement was much less.


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Maldevyne said:


> The rack might be "one with the frame of the car" but you are not. It has been discussed before. One other explanation is that you have already gone over the bump and started to stabilize while the rear of the car is just hitting the bump. Both these contribute to the "exaggeration." Many have said that when observed from a different vehicle the perceived movement was much less.


That's true and I'm not denying it. I'm just saying that these racks bounce more than others. Between owning others and riding buddies having others I've seen many racks, all with less movement than the 1up. I've looked in the same rear view mirror of this particular car and seen 2 other racks (cheapies even) that barely move.

That being said, the 1up rack is still the best rack I've ever used. I freakin' love the product. Just stating my observations.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

rob1035 said:


> Anyone experience a lot of wiggle with a bike in the 1Up rack? I've got the single 1.25" rack, and it seems to move a lot more than I would have thought. The hitch is securely mounted, the rack bolt is tight. Maybe I'm over scrutinizing it, I don't know how much is normal I guess.


I had trouble with ONE of my cars. Turned out it was a crappy hitch. Changed to a different brand hitch and all is well.

Make sure you have the rack mounted as tight to the bumper as possible. If it's cantilevered way out back, there's a bigger lever arm and the hitch will flex.


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## cordystoy (Aug 31, 2011)

*Just ordered*

Hi,

Just ordered my 1up single (black) today. I e-mailed them with a couple of question and got answers right away, even on a Saturday. I'm sure after all the reviews the rack will be fine. I'm just hoping it comes with a wheel of cheese, it's already shipped.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

I'm similar to the cool kids now

Convinced my co-worker (whom was on the fence of which platform rack to get)... to get one also (he had a Thule 594 on the roof.... so I don't think the T2 was on his short list)


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## buddha33 (Sep 3, 2012)

Agreed.


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## jcard14 (Oct 25, 2005)

Got my 1up a month ago...could not be happier! I had actually never seen one in person and am usually skeptical about buying stuff online if I haven't touched it in real life...but 1up has a 60-day money back guarantee and everyone on MTBR raves about it so I felt I had nothing to lose. 

This rack is so cool, looks great and just got its first real test over Thanksgiving as I drove over 1000 miles with my bike on the back...no problems. In fact, someone actually came up behind me on the Interstate and I swear they were checking out my rack...I could see the two people in the front seats discussing (with hand motions) how the rack held the bike.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

We put up a big review here:

1up USA Bike Rack Review | Road Bike News, Reviews, and Photos

We used some of the photos from this thread. Thank you.

Please get in there and 'like' the article and comment/share.

fc


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

francois said:


> We used some of the photos from this thread. Thank you.
> 
> fc


De nada. Nice to see 1-Up getting the props their product deserves.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

evasive said:


> De nada. Nice to see 1-Up getting the props their product deserves.


Agreed, although now they're going to be mainstream and "lose their edge" or something. Oh well.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> Agreed, although now they're going to be mainstream and "lose their edge" or something. Oh well.


I don't think it'll ever be mainstream due to price.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

eurospek said:


> I don't think it'll ever be mainstream due to price.


What does that even mean?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> What does that even mean?


It means what it means. When people ask me about my rack in the parking lot at the trailhead, all is swell until they get sticker shock when they ask me how much I paid.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

eurospek said:


> It means what it means. When people ask me about my rack in the parking lot at the trailhead, all is swell until they get sticker shock when they ask me how much I paid.


IDK, I got what you were getting at. I think that what 1up does is charge what they feel they need to in order to make a product the way they think is best (US-made, machined aluminum, etc, etc) rather than one that will simply sell the most units.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

tednugent said:


> I'm similar to the cool kids now
> 
> Convinced my co-worker (whom was on the fence of which platform rack to get)... to get one also (he had a Thule 594 on the roof.... so I don't think the T2 was on his short list)


 Here's mine. I'm not sure if I'm the co-worker you were talking about and I was on the fence about it but decided to go with it. I've only clocked about 100 miles with the bike on the rack but so far so good.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Considering getting the single bike rack. Just curious what is everyone using for security of the bike?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> Considering getting the single bike rack. Just curious what is everyone using for security of the bike?


 I'm using a cable lock to secure the bike to the rack.


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## campisi (Dec 20, 2004)

DRILLINDK said:


> Considering getting the single bike rack. Just curious what is everyone using for security of the bike?


Cable lock for the bike to the rack. I also have a small D-lock to provide a lock of the rack to the hitch receiver (as well as peace of mind that the rack won't slide out of the receiver if the mechanism loosens). Main thing is to keep your eyes on your bike.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

campisi said:


> Cable lock for the bike to the rack. I also have a small D-lock to provide a lock of the rack to the hitch receiver (as well as peace of mind that the rack won't slide out of the receiver if the mechanism loosens). Main thing is to keep your eyes on your bike.


So, you're using that to secure the rack to the hitch so someone just couldn't steal the rack and whatever is on it, correct?

Also, what's the approximate cost to get a hitch installed on your car and where would one get one installed?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> Also, what's the approximate cost to get a hitch installed on your car and where would one get one installed?


Varies, but maybe $150-$250 depending on what you buy. U-Haul dealers commonly sell them, as do trailer dealers. Check your yellow pages.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> So, you're using that to secure the rack to the hitch so someone just couldn't steal the rack and whatever is on it, correct?
> 
> Also, what's the approximate cost to get a hitch installed on your car and where would one get one installed?


 I got 3 receiver hitches from etrailer.com. They have great prices, shipping is free, and in most cases they even have videos on how to install it. Most of their hitches don't require drilling as they try to use existing holes already on the vehicles. I use the cable lock to lock the bike to the rack. The rack attaches to the hitch with a custom allen or hex wrench. Without it nobody can remove the rack from the hitch.... in theory. But I don't leave the rack on my car anyway. The rack is so easy and quick to put on and take off that I just fold it up and put it in the trunk.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Thanks for all the info guys. Much appreciated!

Has anyone purchased the wheel lock? Does that work well?


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

DRILLINDK said:


> Thanks for all the info guys. Much appreciated!
> 
> Has anyone purchased the wheel lock? Does that work well?


If you buy the wheel lock only... what's preventing them from just stealing the frame only?

I prefer a cable lock myself, so that you can secure the frame & wheel to the rack and if you have enough length, to the hitch chain loop as well. I think it's a better theft deterrent.

It's not theft proof... a prepared thief will be able to defeat most mechanisms rather easily.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Called a local U-haul shop. They quoted me $225 for parts and installation of hitch. $75 in labor if I bought one myself from somewhere else. 

$525 + shipping, and only being able to carry one bike. Yikes.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> Called a local U-haul shop. They quoted me $225 for parts and installation of hitch. $75 in labor if I bought one myself from somewhere else.
> 
> $525 + shipping, and only being able to carry one bike. Yikes.


Depending on your car, etrailer.com is going to have the hitch for less than $225, free shipping, and super easy installation. Seems like a no-brainer to do it yourself. You just need some basic hand tools. If you're curious about the work to install, search for the specific application for your car and check to see if they have a install video or instructions on etrailer.com. That should give you a sense of what you'd be in for. It really is fairly painless on most cars.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

You can also try Amazon.com, I bought my Curt hitch brand new from them for only $109.99, shipped next day via Prime, it was quite a bargain. I had it installed where I service my WRX for a 24-case of Heineken.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

DRILLINDK said:


> $525 + shipping, and only being able to carry one bike. Yikes.


You forgot $20K+ you paid for the car.  Just to carry a bike..

Seriously though, hitch, or roof rails will be a fixed cost no matter what.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

I went with etrailer.com for my hitch. Over $150 is free shipping. Mine was just under 150, so I ordered a few extras. With the video, its easy to install. Maybe 30 mins for my Civic. 

Love the rack. The only issue I've had is a sticky bar (the bar the lever slides on). A few drops on dry lube and it works like new.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

eurospek said:


> You can also try Amazon.com, I bought my Curt hitch brand new from them for only $109.99, shipped next day via Prime, it was quite a bargain. I had it installed where I service my WRX for a 24-case of Heineken.


What year is your WRX? I have a 2010 hatch and I've heard that some hitches require some minor drilling. 109 plus a case isn't a bad deal at all...


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Lev said:


> What year is your WRX? I have a 2010 hatch and I've heard that some hitches require some minor drilling. 109 plus a case isn't a bad deal at all...


Drilling the car or trimming the bumper a bit underneath? I've heard of the latter needing to be done in some cases, never extra drilling.

Either way, I drive a 2005 Saab 9-2X Aero, aka 2005 WRX, and it was complete plug and play. 4 bolts and that's it for me. Plus the Curt hitch doesn't look like an eye sore from a mile away like the OEM Subaru hitch. It extends a lot beneath the bumper line.


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## Algernon (Jan 1, 2010)

*1up and ground clearance*

I'm strongly considering a new 1up rack but I'm a little worried about ground clearance. I have an A4 with a Kurt hitch and my driveway is steep. I'm currently running an Xport 2 rack (cradle style) and it hits the street unless I really turn in at a shallow angle. Does anyone have a side view if a 1up so I can get an idea of clearance?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Lev said:


> What year is your WRX? I have a 2010 hatch and I've heard that some hitches require some minor drilling. 109 plus a case isn't a bad deal at all...


Is it a Curt hitch? They tend to be the brand that requires drilling. Bad idea.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Lev said:


> What year is your WRX? I have a 2010 hatch and I've heard that some hitches require some minor drilling. 109 plus a case isn't a bad deal at all...


I recently put one on my 2013 WRX Wagon. I had to do some minor bumper trimming where the hitch part comes out. No drilling was required as they used existing holes in the frame. I did have to fish the bolts into the frame but they included the fish wire with excellent instructions on how to do it. I did have to drop the muffler to fit the hitch into place. Overall it took a couple of hours.

You can check the details on the install for your car from here. 
Trailer Hitch | etrailer.com


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

eurospek said:


> You can also try Amazon.com, I bought my Curt hitch brand new from them for only $109.99, shipped next day via Prime, it was quite a bargain. I had it installed where I service my WRX for a 24-case of Heineken.


Amazon is worth checking. Got a Curt on the Matrix from them. The car was about 5 years old when I installed so I had to buy a tool to chase the existing threads under the car due to a little rust from our salty roads. Still was a 1 hour job and easy.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

DRILLINDK said:


> Called a local U-haul shop. They quoted me $225 for parts and installation of hitch. $75 in labor if I bought one myself from somewhere else.
> 
> $525 + shipping, and only being able to carry one bike. Yikes.


if that's all you use the hitch for, then it adds $225 to the cost of any rack. We use our hitch for pulling trailers too.

J.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

I would probably ruin my transmission in my sedan pulling something. 

Anyway I pulled the trigger. I'm just one of those that has to gripe and complain a bit to justify something like this. 

Uhaul is installing the hitch Tuesday.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Funny.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*It'll be about the same as the XPort*



Algernon said:


> I'm strongly considering a new 1up rack but I'm a little worried about ground clearance. I have an A4 with a Kurt hitch and my driveway is steep. I'm currently running an Xport 2 rack (cradle style) and it hits the street unless I really turn in at a shallow angle. Does anyone have a side view if a 1up so I can get an idea of clearance?


Here's mine on the back of my B6 A4 with sport package...



it grinds a bit, but it's no big deal. I would just say inspect it once in a while around the bolt holes to be sure it doesn't crack.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

here is my lowered Passat

yes it grinds... so did my Yakima holdup


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Just courious, do you guys have any suggestions for cable locks that work really well with this bike rack? I'm looking at purchasing something like this:

Amazon.com: Kryptonite 720018210610 KryptoFlex 3/8" x 7' 1007 Double Loop Security Cable: Sports & Outdoors


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> Just courious, do you guys have any suggestions for cable locks that work really well with this bike rack? I'm looking at purchasing something like this:
> 
> Amazon.com: Kryptonite 720018210610 KryptoFlex 3/8" x 7' 1007 Double Loop Security Cable: Sports & Outdoors


That is the cable I use.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Cables suck*



DRILLINDK said:


> Just courious, do you guys have any suggestions for cable locks that work really well with this bike rack? I'm looking at purchasing something like this:
> 
> Amazon.com: Kryptonite 720018210610 KryptoFlex 3/8" x 7' 1007 Double Loop Security Cable: Sports & Outdoors


Use a chain. It doesn't take much to cut a cable, even those crazy thick ones.

I would also suggest using a good quality U-Lock around the rear wheel and frame of the bike. Make the thief have to defeat several things before he can ride the bike away.

I use a U-Lock around the bike, thick chain, and another tiny U-Lock around my trailer hitch safety chain loops.

Those thin cables that come on other bike racks are pretty close to useless. I guess they will keep somebody from casually walking by and making off with your bike, but if your friendly neighborhood bike thief has any kind of tools on him he can defeat it. Some of those locks you can defeat with a big screwdriver and a pair of vice grips.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

pimpbot said:


> Use a chain. It doesn't take much to cut a cable, even those crazy thick ones.
> 
> I would also suggest using a good quality U-Lock around the rear wheel and frame of the bike. Make the thief have to defeat several things before he can ride the bike away.
> 
> ...


Great suggestions! I'm not quite sure what you mean by this. Maybe once I receive the bike rack I'll understand.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> Use a chain. It doesn't take much to cut a cable, even those crazy thick ones.
> 
> I would also suggest using a good quality U-Lock around the rear wheel and frame of the bike. Make the thief have to defeat several things before he can ride the bike away.
> 
> ...


Agreed, the cables are whack. Chains are your best solution.


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## BigSky3 (Dec 17, 2012)

*Kuat Sherpa vs. 1UP for Mazda3 hatchback (2012)*

Hi, fellow biking enthusiasts -

I just got a 2012 Mazda 3 (5-door) hatchback, and am now shopping for a bike rack that I can put on a tow hitch on the back of this lovely car. I'm seeing lots of good posts for the Kuat Sherpa and various 1UP racks. Has anyone put either of these on a Mazda3 hatchback? An pros or cons?

Thanks!
BigSky

Note - I love the white of the Sherpa, but it looks like it leans in a bit towards the car in the pictures ... and my hatchback door bulges out a bit - possibly a bad combo. Also, my friend's Kuat NV made my front brakes tighten on my front tire. Maybe my bike (a Novara Kia) doesn't tolerate being held close to the brakes.

The 1UP looks lighter in weight, which is a big plus. (I'm a female, and light-weight is desirable.) A possible downside is that I have a cargo rack and basket over my back wheel, so I'm not sure if the 1UP design will accommodate that.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

DRILLINDK said:


> Great suggestions! I'm not quite sure what you mean by this. Maybe once I receive the bike rack I'll understand.


One of these:










I also used a Disc lock. The storage unit and fixie bike folks favor this kind of lock:










These work well for securing a chain to itself or around the hitch's safety chain loops. They are fairly hard to cut, and hard to get the jaws of the bolt cutters around the shackle.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> One of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


These are interesting solutions. Do you have pictures of them being used on the rack? I'm curious as to how you use them.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

tonyride1 said:


> These are interesting solutions. Do you have pictures of them being used on the rack? I'm curious as to how you use them.


+1 I'd like to see how you use the hitch rack as well. TY!


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

I've got one on my 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback. Got a Curt hitch from Amazon and it was an easy install.

I LOVE the rack. I've put a few thousand miles with a bike on it and it's working great.

The bike sits far enough back that the rack on your back wheel won't be a problem.












BigSky3 said:


> Hi, fellow biking enthusiasts -
> 
> I just got a 2012 Mazda 3 (5-door) hatchback, and am now shopping for a bike rack that I can put on a tow hitch on the back of this lovely car. I'm seeing lots of good posts for the Kuat Sherpa and various 1UP racks. Has anyone put either of these on a Mazda3 hatchback? An pros or cons?
> 
> ...


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## BigSky3 (Dec 17, 2012)

Thanks, FloriDave! That helps me out a lot!!


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*Whelp...*



tonyride1 said:


> These are interesting solutions. Do you have pictures of them being used on the rack? I'm curious as to how you use them.


The chain and locks have nothing to do with the rack. The bike is locked to the car. I locked it directly to the hitch receiver. I'll try and take pics next time I rack it up.

There was somebody who posted earlier who actually found a U-Lock that bolted around the trailer hitch and around the 1UpUSA rack.

Oh, on a side note I found one minor flaw with the rack:

1Up used standard SAE size bolts!! They should be metric!! 

Which is fine, but some of my bolts loosened up, namely the allen bolt that tips up and down to lock the trays. And, one of the bolts that the tray swivels around. In 1Up's defense, my mounting plate was damaged when somebody's car bumped my car when parked, breaking the locks off. I replaced the tray plate myself and bolted the trays on. I may have not tightened them down to the right torque. I guessed.

Anyway, it sent me scrounging around the shop trying to find SAE sized allen wrenches and open ended wrenches. Half inch, 9/16, 3/16 allen... dudes?!?


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Ahhh, I thought you used the lock to secure the bike rack to the trailer hitch. 

Let me get this straight. You secured the small U-lock to the trailer hitch and ran a chain through the U-lock?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I think eurospek posted the original picture. I copied him. A smaller, 7" U lock will fit through the chain loop on the hitch and around the rack body. I don't have a picture of it on my phone. I don't bother around town, but I do use it on road trips. That's for the rack only. I also run a cable through the U lock and around the bike while traveling. 

Around town I lock my bike directly to the spare wheel, since that's easiest. I have a rubber coated and steel jacketed Abus cable for that.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

evasive said:


> I think eurospek posted the original picture. I copied him. A smaller, 7" U lock will fit through the chain loop on the hitch and around the rack body. I don't have a picture of it on my phone. I don't bother around town, but I do use it on road trips. That's for the rack only. I also run a cable through the U lock and around the bike while traveling.
> 
> Around town I lock my bike directly to the spare wheel, since that's easiest. I have a rubber coated and steel jacketed Abus cable for that.


 See page 39 of this thread for the picture.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

eurospek said:


> I too was of that logic last season when I was looking at racks (always thinking the worst lol). But I am glad I bought the 1up 2 bike combo last year. I just couldn't stomach paying a little less or even the same in some instances for the Thule/Yakima/Kuat steel garbage offerings at the time. Mine still looks new, operates flawlessly, and never had a problem with mine. And always get numerous comments/questions at the trail head parking lot about it. :thumbsup:
> 
> But to make me sleep better at night,* I have a Kryptonite mini U-lock going thru the rack and the hitch metal loop*, so even if the locking bolt ever fails, the rack isn't going to slide out anywhere, there's basically less than an inch of leeway with this, and still safely inserted in my hitch.
> 
> And disregard the red strap, no longer in use.


Amazon.com: Kryptonite Evolution Mini Bike U-Lock: Sports & Outdoors

Google


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Yup, that U-Lock works perfectly for me. :thumbsup: 

Thanks for digging up the pic.


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## bluejudad (Sep 7, 2011)

I just got mine (a two tray) a few days ago. I freakin love it!. It's so well made. The tooling, components, design, look, ease of use, etc. It's one of those products that feel and look worth the money you spend on it. Any financial hesitancy will be swept away with joy once you get it. I love seeing it on the back of my FJ. I love seeing it loaded with bikes. And, I love taking it out to the trails. I wish it was my company. They deserve tremendous success! And... it's made in the USA.


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## gearhead84 (Mar 4, 2008)

With the recent Pugsley purchase I think it is time to ditch the old style T2 and pick of these things up. Thanks everyone on the thread for helping making the decision easier.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

You won't be sorry! Best rack ever.


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## BigSky3 (Dec 17, 2012)

Hi, FloriDave -

It just occurred to me that the weight of my bike might matter. (D'uh!) I have a lot of accessories on my bike, so that the whole bike weighs about 40 lbs. Do you think the 1UP (or the Kuat Sherpa) would be able to hold that much weight? (I'm asking 1UP and Sherpa that question, but it's helpful to hear a (perhaps more accurate) answer from someone who actually owns such a bike rack, lol.)

As a memory-jogger, I'm thinking of putting the 1UP or Kuat Sherpa on my 2012 Mazda3 5-door hatchback.

Thanks!!


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

BigSky3, you don't have to worry as I sit on my rack when the bike is of off it. I put a flip-flop or towel down and sit in the middle on the rack. No issues and I am over 200#...:madman:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

BigSky3 said:


> Hi, FloriDave -
> 
> It just occurred to me that the weight of my bike might matter. (D'uh!) I have a lot of accessories on my bike, so that the whole bike weighs about 40 lbs. Do you think the 1UP (or the Kuat Sherpa) would be able to hold that much weight? (I'm asking 1UP and Sherpa that question, but it's helpful to hear a (perhaps more accurate) answer from someone who actually owns such a bike rack, lol.)
> 
> ...


It won't matter at all to the rack. The weak link is the hitch, but one 40 lb bike on that rack should be well within your hitch rating.

70-odd pounds of bike on my 1-Up:


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## MoTec (Jul 25, 2012)

I have to say "Wow!"

I got my new rack delivered today and it is an impressive piece of equipment! I got the two bike rack in black and put it on my Jeep JK and it fits perfectly. I'm very happy. If anyone is on the fence about getting this I just have one thing to say "Do it!"


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

evasive said:


> It won't matter at all to the rack. The weak link is the hitch, but one 40 lb bike on that rack should be well within your hitch rating.
> 
> 70-odd pounds of bike on my 1-Up:
> View attachment 746414


I think 1-Up is the only rack that you can offset bikes like that. 
Best rack out there!


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## BigSky3 (Dec 17, 2012)

Thanks, Rock dude and Evasive!!! That was super helpful!


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## Utilityman (Feb 19, 2011)

Can someone post a side view pic of the rack folded up when not in use. I have 20'' between my wall and the hitch pin hole on my 4runner and I just want to make sure the rack will fit on my runner while in the garage.
thanks


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## peanut09 (Apr 13, 2005)

ridefast84 said:


> Can someone post a side view pic of the rack folded up when not in use. I have 20'' between my wall and the hitch pin hole on my 4runner and I just want to make sure the rack will fit on my runner while in the garage.
> thanks


I don't have a 4 runner so bumper to hitch ratio could be off a little but for my VW golf it sticks out 6 3/4 from the bumper to the furthest point out on the rack when folded. Guessing it should be real close to the same.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

ridefast84 said:


> Can someone post a side view pic of the rack folded up when not in use. I have 20'' between my wall and the hitch pin hole on my 4runner and I just want to make sure the rack will fit on my runner while in the garage.
> thanks


There are a number of those already posted, although I agree this thread has gotten unwieldy.

This pic was posted by LittleBuddy on page 42:


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## Utilityman (Feb 19, 2011)

Wow that's great my old thule stuck out nearly 20".


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## nickv02 (Dec 4, 2012)

Read through this whole thread and decided to buy this rack. Just getting back in to biking, and loving it so far. Love this freakin' rack too. Solid, well-built, and everyone who has seen it has complimented it. Such a fine piece of metal. Fits my 29er well.

Can't post pics yet, but it looks just like everyone elses


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

DRILLINDK said:


> Amazon.com: Kryptonite Evolution Mini Bike U-Lock: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Google


Just curious, did you buy this combination of locks?

Amazon.com: Kryptonite Evo Mini-7 with 4-Foot Flex Lock: Sports & Outdoors


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> Just curious, did you buy this combination of locks?
> 
> Amazon.com: Kryptonite Evo Mini-7 with 4-Foot Flex Lock: Sports & Outdoors


Yup. Four feet is shorter than you imagine, btw.


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## bluejudad (Sep 7, 2011)

I just had a nice email conversation with someone at 1UP. I want to clarify a couple things that are important for this thread.

The Allen Wrench that is provided is made by (or for) 1UP! That means you cannot buy it in a hardware store. So, it is essentially self locking and thief proof, as the locking mechanism is internal. 1UP is not aware of any hitch rack ever being stolen off a car.

I was emailing them, because, I had wobble where the 'extender' enters the hitch. It turned out to be my error, as I forgot to use the washer. Now, there is no wobble at all. 

This rack is the bomb! I freakin love it.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

bluejudad said:


> I just had a nice email conversation with someone at 1UP. I want to clarify a couple things that are important for this thread.
> 
> *The Allen Wrench that is provided is made by (or for) 1UP! That means you cannot buy it in a hardware store. So, it is essentially self locking and thief proof, as the locking mechanism is internal. * 1UP is not aware of any hitch rack ever being stolen off a car.
> 
> ...


I haven't actually measured the wrench, but unless it is a non-standard size, you can indeed buy it. Not at Home Depot or Lowe's, but it is possible.

That said, it is very unlikely that any random thief will have a wrench that fits on their person. It definitely isn't something that I'd worry about.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

When in doubt put a lock on it, certainly when they get more popular and peeps have the additional trays. I saw a post in the beginning of this thread IIRC, wherein someone had drilled a hole in both the base and a tray to keep things together..YMMV


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## bluejudad (Sep 7, 2011)

racerwad said:


> I haven't actually measured the wrench, but unless it is a non-standard size, you can indeed buy it. Not at Home Depot or Lowe's, but it is possible.
> 
> That said, it is very unlikely that any random thief will have a wrench that fits on their person. It definitely isn't something that I'd worry about.


I was told: *"We make our own wrenches which are not available anywhere in stores. We have never had a customer's rack get stolen to our knowledge yet."*

Regardless.... I agree with you. It seems highly unlikely anyone would have it (save a fellow 1UP owner, kinda funny). It actually says on their website that they would replace a stolen one. I'm very pleased with this company's product and customer support to date.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

It is a custom security hex tool... 

mcmaster carr has them, but only to 1/4". Don't see anything on Snap-on's site


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

My reasoning for attaching the U-lock to the bike rack and trailer hitch is to prevent another person with the custom hex tool (1upusa bike rack owner) from stealing my rack.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> My reasoning for attaching the U-lock to the bike rack and trailer hitch is to prevent another person with the custom hex tool (1upusa bike rack owner) from stealing my rack.


That's what I'm afraid of.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

What are you trying to say about 1up rack owners? 
Do you really think that a person that would buy that expensive of a bike rack would be out stealing them?


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

DRILLINDK said:


> My reasoning for attaching the U-lock to the bike rack and trailer hitch is to prevent another person with the custom hex tool (1upusa bike rack owner) from stealing my rack.


If you got the add-on... do you have another U-lock to secure that?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> That's what I'm afraid of.


Uh, if the custom tool was made by 1UpUSA (it is) and if it comes with the rack, why would someone who owns the rack want to steal yours? Isn't that a really, really, really small population of rack thieves?

J.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

Do we think that there are a lot of rack thieves out there?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Uh, if the custom tool was made by 1UpUSA (it is) and if it comes with the rack, why would someone who owns the rack want to steal yours? Isn't that a really, really, really small population of rack thieves?
> 
> J.


Granted, the chances of that happening is very low but it gives me a piece of mind. Just paranoid I guess.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

This is right off there web page. "We are so confident that our security system will prevent rack theft that if your Quik-Rack is stolen off your vehicle we will replace it for FREE!"

I would worry more about the bike on the rack than the rack.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Guess I should be even more paranoid then as recently I lost my key. Pretty sure I left it in one of the trays and went on my way and fell off somewhere between the house and the trail parking lot. Never did find it as I went back that night and didn't see it, it's still probably somewhere on the side of the road. As for the key, 1UP will sell you extra ones for $10/each.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> Granted, the chances of that happening is very low but it gives me a piece of mind. Just paranoid I guess.


Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean that they aren't out to get you.

Then again, since 1UpUSA guarantees to replace the rack if it's stolen, I'd not worry about it. Heck you could call them and ask them how many times they've had to make good on that claim. My bet is zero. 

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean that they aren't out to get you.
> 
> Then again, since 1UpUSA guarantees to replace the rack if it's stolen, I'd not worry about it. Heck you could call them and ask them how many times they've had to make good on that claim. My bet is zero.
> 
> J.


It's not the rack I'm worried about. It's my $4000+ bike mounted to it that I'm worried about. It they take the rack, they'll also have the bike and I doubt 1up USA will replace that, too. Yes, I can lock the bike to the rack but they'll have plenty of time removing the lock once they have the whole thing in their possession.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

There is no help for that. A battery powered reciprocating saw would be through that aluminum rack in less than 30 seconds, or any rack for that matter.

No rack will protect that bike from theft. 

Besides that, imagine the image of a bike thief dragging your rack AND the bike down the street. The fact is, they will concentrate on stealing the bike and they won't give a rip about the rack. 

Bolt cutters will make a <10s job of a cable to attach the bike to the car/rack.

J.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

The replacement warranty does make me feel better about the rack getting stolen. However, there's no way I would ever leave my bike unattended on the bike rack. Locked, shackled, whatever... My baby is always in eyesight of me or a friend.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

I swear a pre-req for owning this rack is overwhelming paranoia


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

racerwad said:


> I swear a pre-req for owning this rack is overwhelming paranoia


I also wear a aluminum foil helmet when I ride....


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I guess everyone's situation is different. In my area (greater NYC) there are lots of professional bike thieves who would go around in cargo vans and target expensive bikes. Just the other week I read that they caught people with 2 vans full of "high end" bikes that were obviously stolen. So they have no problems taking bikes still attached to racks and throwing them in the van and take off for their "chop shop". I don't usually keep my bike on the rack but at times it is unavoidable. After our rides we usually to grab a bite to eat so we're forced to leave the bike on the rack while in the restaurant. We also go on long trips with our bikes so at times they're left on the rack unattended either at rest stops, restaurants, etc. I think an ounce of prevention is worth it's weight in gold. I know no locks will always prevent a professional bike thief from taking it but a little bit of deterrent will keep an honest man honest.


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## BigSky3 (Dec 17, 2012)

*1UP bike rack OK for road/touring bikes?*

Hi, guys -

Thanks for all your great feedback! I'm nearly sold on the 1UP as a bike rack for loading my heaving cruiser/touring bike onto my 2012 Mazda 3 5-door hatchback.

Last question - has anyone put a regular road bike (i.e. a bike with slim tires) on the 1UP rack? I might have reason to also lug a lighter-weight bike on this rack. However, I'm not sure if a slimmer-tire'ed bike will sit securely on the 1UP and not shimmy back and forth on this rack. All the pictures I've seen of the rack show it holding mountain bikes with fat tire. 

Any input?

Thanks!!
BigSky3


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Any bike with any tire size, or width, fits on the 1Up rack. No worries, it works like a charm.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

DRILLINDK said:


> I also wear a aluminum foil helmet when I ride....


Wise :thumbsup:


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

BigSky3 said:


> Hi, guys -
> 
> Thanks for all your great feedback! I'm nearly sold on the 1UP as a bike rack for loading my heaving cruiser/touring bike onto my 2012 Mazda 3 5-door hatchback.
> 
> ...


Do it all the time. Works great. I carry my road bike on this all the time.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> I guess everyone's situation is different. In my area (greater NYC) there are lots of professional bike thieves who would go around in cargo vans and target expensive bikes. Just the other week I read that they caught people with 2 vans full of "high end" bikes that were obviously stolen. So they have no problems taking bikes still attached to racks and throwing them in the van and take off for their "chop shop". I don't usually keep my bike on the rack but at times it is unavoidable. After our rides we usually to grab a bite to eat so we're forced to leave the bike on the rack while in the restaurant. We also go on long trips with our bikes so at times they're left on the rack unattended either at rest stops, restaurants, etc. I think an ounce of prevention is worth it's weight in gold. I know no locks will always prevent a professional bike thief from taking it but a little bit of deterrent will keep an honest man honest.


If there are professional bike thieves around, they have bolt cutters and reciprocating saws. Either one will make short work of any rack or method of locking your bike to the rack. There is little you can do to stop these guys - they specialize in getting it gone in under 60 seconds (usually way under). They aren't going to steal your rack, they are going to take your bike. The rack is the least of your worries.

As far as rest stops and restaurants on most highways. Once out of urban areas, the risk is considerably down. No matter what, at rest stops leave someone with the car and if you stop to get something to eat, park the car right by the window where you are eating so you can watch it.

Have good insurance and, if you want, a cable to lock the bike to prevent casual theft as long as you are watching your stuff.

Living in NYC, you need to get out a bit. The rest of the world is not quite like that (by a long ways) for bike theft. You are in the belly of the beast.

J.


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

I've looked a few times and had yet to find just what I wanted for a lock to lock my 1UP rack to my Mazda 3. Found one today so thought I'd post it up for others that may be looking for the same.

(I know it's doubtful anyone would have the needed tool to remove the rack from the hitch, but at the price of this rack and how quickly it can be removed if you DO have the right tool, it will make me feel better when my car is sitting at a remote trailhead and I'm out riding)

I stopped in at Walmart and they had a BELL Pocket U-Lock that fits PERFECTLY. They had blue and silver colors and it's a heavy little chunk of steel.
Most of the U-locks I've seen seem to big, at least on my small Mazda.

Below are pictures of exactly what I bought.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

That looks like a good fit, but it's no smaller than the Kryptonite mini-U lock that was mentioned earlier. It looks slightly longer, in fact.

I don't use my U-lock all that frequently, but it's nice to have it on hand for when I want the option.


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

evasive said:


> That looks like a good fit, but it's no smaller than the Kryptonite mini-U lock that was mentioned earlier. It looks slightly longer, in fact.
> 
> I don't use my U-lock all that frequently, but it's nice to have it on hand for when I want the option.


I actually had missed the Kryptonite link, haven't been through this thread in a while. I do see the Kryptonite is $46, and the Bell lock I got was under $10. Anyway, it's one more option.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

What locks your hitch to your car?


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

slow450 said:


> What locks your hitch to your car?


Your trailer hitch assembly is bolted to your car. I drive a Nissan altima. The uhual installer had to remove my mufflers and bolt it in. The bolts are accessed through the trunk of my car.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

slow450 said:


> What locks your hitch to your car?


 Is this a serious question?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

FloriDave said:


> I actually had missed the Kryptonite link, haven't been through this thread in a while. I do see the Kryptonite is $46, and the Bell lock I got was under $10. Anyway, it's one more option.


 My original intent was to also use a U type lock to lock the rack to the receiver but the design of the side loops on the receiver for my Accord doesn't allow me to lock it that way:madman:. The receiver on my wife's RAV4 will work but not on the Accord so I have to use a cable lock to secure the rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Why do you think you need to add a lock to the rack?

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Why do you think you need to add a lock to the rack?
> 
> J.


Peace of mind.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

LOL. 

Ok, I guess.

J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

As I said earlier, paranoia is a prerequisite for ownership.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Just because you ARE paranoid doesn't mean that they AREN'T out to get you. 

But I wish you peace and not having to worry so much. The standard special tool is security enough. 

J.


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

!!!KAPOW!!!








Fatties fit fine (to steal a phrase).

Love it. Beats all the other racks I've tried. Will be ordering add-ons fer sure.


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## Pelly_NH (Feb 15, 2005)

Just received a black 1Up rack and mounted to my wife's 2002 Acura RSX. Definitely an improvement over the Thule trunk rack that (by design), latched over the glass. Although never any issues, visions of shattered glass and an airborne Mojo SL made me pull the trigger on the 1Up.

Build quality is exceptional and I was surprised at how lightweight the rack is. Setup was a breeze and the rack locked into the hitch without any play.

The only concern I have is that when I mount my Mojo SL to the rack, there is a fair amount of side to side play. The arms are snug on the tires, bike even between arms, and arms as close to 90* as possible.

After looking closer, it seems like this play comes from the notches where you can change the orientation of the rack. (horizontal, or tilted down to access the trunk).

Is this normal? I assume I'm just being paranoid, but seeing the bike "wiggle" in the rear-view mirror (even over small bumps) is a bit unnerving.


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## ianick (Jul 10, 2006)

Pelly_NH said:


> After looking closer, it seems like this play comes from the notches where you can change the orientation of the rack. (horizontal, or tilted down to access the trunk).
> 
> Is this normal? I assume I'm just being paranoid, but seeing the bike "wiggle" in the rear-view mirror (even over small bumps) is a bit unnerving.


Are you tightening the black screw clamp down on the bar that slides in to those notches? I notice my rack has much more play before it is tightened down.


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## Pelly_NH (Feb 15, 2005)

ianick said:


> Are you tightening the black screw clamp down on the bar that slides in to those notches? I notice my rack has much more play before it is tightened down.


Yup. I noticed a big decrease in the wobble when I tightened that black knob (behind the bar). Unfortunately, I still get wobble somewhere.

I've now notched a few 2hr driving trips with the bike loaded (up to 80mph) and although the bike is wobbling a bit, the arms are staying locked (not moving on the tires at all) so I guess there's no issues.

I'm just curious since everyone raves about no wobble. If you grab the top of the bike frame and try to move forward and back, how much movement do you other guys see with your 1up?


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Wow. Sweet Fatbike!

Yeah, it was an added bonus to see that a Fatbike fits in these racks just fine. I had to let a bit of air out of the tires, but that's not a big deal. I brought a Pugsley down from one friend who was selling one to another who was going to drive it to somebody else in SoCal. Easy Peasy.



ChrisInYpsi said:


> !!!KAPOW!!!
> View attachment 754124
> 
> 
> ...


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

If you mean left to right, none.

If you mean towards the front of the car and the rear of the car, a little.


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## Pelly_NH (Feb 15, 2005)

racerwad said:


> If you mean left to right, none.
> 
> If you mean towards the front of the car and the rear of the car, a little.


Front of the car to back of the car.

When I'm driving, I can see the bike moving this way.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Well, the headset will always allow for some rotation which presents as front to back movement. If it makes you feel any better, I've used Thule, Saris, Kuat, and Xport racks and they all have close (Kuat) or a lot more movement (everyone else) and aren't as easy to use as the 1up.

It's fine. It looks worse than it is. Follow your car in someone else's car and see for yourself. The distortion/perspective from inside your car/through your rearview mirror seems to exaggerate the movement (I guess this is prob true of the other racks, too).


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## Pelly_NH (Feb 15, 2005)

racerwad said:


> Well, the headset will always allow for some rotation which presents as front to back movement. If it makes you feel any better, I've used Thule, Saris, Kuat, and Xport racks and they all have close (Kuat) or a lot more movement (everyone else) and aren't as easy to use as the 1up.
> 
> It's fine. It looks worse than it is. Follow your car in someone else's car and see for yourself. The distortion/perspective from inside your car/through your rearview mirror seems to exaggerate the movement (I guess this is prob true of the other racks, too).


Thank you for the assurance! I'll feel a lot better now knowing I'm seeing the expected amount of "play".


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I took the plunge on this awesome rack. My old rack was beginning to rust out and this is pretty much the king rack of all racks. Honestly, it's in a class all it's own, but I think we all know this already 

I bought the fat-bike kit and it's super awesome. My old rack was awkward to cram the fatbike onto. I also bought the wheel lock 1UPUSA.com :: Wheel Lock - though that is only compatible with the normal tray (not the fatbike tray due to width) This lock is essentially a coupler lock and I've looked around for wider ones, but they're just not made apparently.

Anyone have any leads on a similar locking system that would accommodate the fat-bike tray width (somewhere over 5"?) I like the coupler system due to it simplicity, though I have a cable I use currently.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

JohnJ80 said:


> Why do you think you need to add a lock to the rack?
> 
> J.


For me, besides the added security, the U-Lock provides an additional fail-safe to the ball-wedged mechanism. I almost passed up on this wonderful rack because I didn't feel comfortable without a hitch bolt/pin, until I saw the U-Lock idea. I forgot who originally came up with this since this thread seems to go forever , but whoever it was...thank you :thumbsup:


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

After 40K miles I can say that mine has never come loose or close to loose even while taking my car off-road. However YMMV..


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

My rack came with a velcro strap as a safety just in case the ball did come loose. I'm sure others got one, too. I know it's not really needed and was provided for piece of mind sake but I still use a lock anyway.


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## Flat_iv (Feb 9, 2013)

Purchased a used 1up rack from another forum. Got the rack and the ball bearing is missing, bolt is not there and the internal slide piece is also missing. Anyone have a picture of what these pieces look like. Trying to fix this weekend so I can use the rack. Might have to wait and call 1Up on Monday. Any information would be appreciated.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Flat_iv said:


> Purchased a used 1up rack from another forum. Got the rack and the ball bearing is missing, bolt is not there and the internal slide piece is also missing. Anyone have a picture of what these pieces look like. Trying to fix this weekend so I can use the rack. Might have to wait and call 1Up on Monday. Any information would be appreciated.


I hope you got a really good price on it because you may have to send it back to 1Up for repair unless you're extremely handy. Just check out their website and youtube and you'll see what it looks like.


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## DRILLINDK (Mar 12, 2012)

Mark, for later reading.


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## FloriDave (Jul 15, 2009)

Flat_iv said:


> Purchased a used 1up rack from another forum. Got the rack and the ball bearing is missing, bolt is not there and the internal slide piece is also missing. Anyone have a picture of what these pieces look like. Trying to fix this weekend so I can use the rack. Might have to wait and call 1Up on Monday. Any information would be appreciated.


Worst case I wonder if you could drill it to accept a hitch pin. Slide it in your hitch, mark it and drill.

Sent from my Droid tablet using Tapatalk 2


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

Flat_iv said:


> Purchased a used 1up rack from another forum. Got the rack and the ball bearing is missing, bolt is not there and the internal slide piece is also missing. Anyone have a picture of what these pieces look like. Trying to fix this weekend so I can use the rack. Might have to wait and call 1Up on Monday. Any information would be appreciated.


Do not drill for hitch pin!!! Drilling will ruin the rack. 
Check inside the box for the ball bearing, if it's in there just put it back into the hole and take a hammer and tap the point to keep the bearing in. If there is no bearing you will have to call 1up Monday.

"Do not drill rack"


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Rock dude said:


> Do not drill for hitch pin!!! Drilling will ruin the rack.
> Check inside the box for the ball bearing, if it's in there just put it back into the hole and take a hammer and tap the point to keep the bearing in. If there is no bearing you will have to call 1up Monday.
> 
> "Do not drill rack"


Agreed. Do not drill it out. The design of the rack is such that the ball really holds the rack in solid (Minimizing wobble). A hitch pin would not hold a rack or hitch in as solid. Check the box one last time and if not there then just give them a call Monday morning. I'm sure they would help you out getting the rack up and running by next weekend.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Received my 1up yesterday. Everyone says pics don't do it justice but damn its true. 

It has to be the most sturdy/looking rack I've ever seen on a vehicle. 

Matches my 12' Focus great. I'm hitching it around but have yet to transport my bike. This week at some point. 

Thanks to all for their info and experiences. My biggest concern was no hitch pin but after seeing how this works Im confident in its retaining abilities.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> Received my 1up yesterday. Everyone says pics don't do it justice but damn its true.
> 
> It has to be the most sturdy/looking rack I've ever seen on a vehicle.
> 
> ...


Congratulations and enjoy.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Pics


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

Nice Trek u got there


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## swl7 (Sep 4, 2012)

Here's my 1up rack that I recently installed!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I love my 1up Quick Rack. I'm about to order an add-on.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Once you go 1UP you can't go to anything else. 

Except maybe in 4 bike applications an NSR-4, sick rack my friend has one.


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## GhostRing (Feb 29, 2012)

Still loving mine, and the only thing I wish was possible would be height adjustability.
it is juuust a bit too tall for letting my tailgate down (2nd gen 4Runner)
Optional lower sideplates or two different sets of holes would rock.


(eta: or it's a good excuse to get a bit newer vehicle )


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

*Work Of Art!!*

Just installed my 1up today. Piece of cake install. I purchased the add on also.


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## Corbinworks (Aug 15, 2011)

FloriDave said:


>


Great Idea, Only thing is a Battery operated sawzaw or grinder will make butter of it..I now keep my bike in the car & locked to the floor..


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

*Add-Om*

Just got an Add-on for my Quik Rack.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Just ordered mine this morning and right after lunch, I received the UPS notification that it should be delivered on Thursday.

Now if my Etrailer hitch comes in that quick, it will be nice.

I look forward to getting my bikes off the roof and leaving the front wheel on.

I also hope it tilts enough to open my hatchback.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^ Yes it will tilt back far enough as it does for my Outback wagon...


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

OscarW said:


> ^ Yes it will tilt back far enough as it does for my Outback wagon...


Thanks Oscar!


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

You're welcome! Enjoy the rack as it is awesome. I should have gotten a sales deal from 1Up as mine has "sold" quite a few of them down here...:lol:


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

OscarW said:


> You're welcome! Enjoy the rack as it is awesome. I should have gotten a sales deal from 1Up as mine has "sold" quite a few of them down here...:lol:


Maybe you can get a % of everything you help sell.

I had a long talk with my wife over the weekend about getting this rack. In the end, she told me I could not spend money on a new rack so I ordered it this morning. I'm sure the fight will be on when it arrives.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

It is better to ask for forgiveness than permission.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

tooclosetosee said:


> It is better to ask for forgiveness than permission.


:lol:


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

tooclosetosee said:


> It is better to ask for forgiveness than permission.


I normally live by that saying but for some reason I tried to be open and honest this time.

I tried to play the "made in the USA" card but then she reminded me that I drive a Nissan and own a Yeti...


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> I drive a Nissan ...


 Your Nissan could have been made in the US. They have a huge plant in Tennessee that employs thousands of Americans and buy parts from American auto parts and components manufacturers. My Accord has more domestic content than foreign and assembled in the US so it is actually considered a domestic vehicle according to the government.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

tonyride1 said:


> Your Nissan could have been made in the US. They have a huge plant in Tennessee that employs thousands of Americans and buy parts from American auto parts and components manufacturers. My Accord has more domestic content than foreign and assembled in the US so it is actually considered a domestic vehicle according to the government.


Valid point...how about my BMW


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> Valid point...how about my BMW


Depends on the model... just like your Nissan. BMW, as well as MB and VW, have assembly plants in the US but I doubt they have enough US content to be classified as domestics.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

I'm torn. Not about whether to get one of these - that's going to happen. No, I'm torn about whether the black version is worth $50. My bike is black, my Jeep is black, and I (obviously) like black. But man, $50 for nothing but a color? I dunno if I can do that.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I'd guess the black would show wear faster. FWIW, the raw looks pretty clean.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

evasive said:


> I'd guess the black would show wear faster. FWIW, the raw looks pretty clean.


Plus it will show scratches a lot more easily as well. I pondered about dropping extra $100 on my setup, but stoked that I didn't lol.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I thought about black for a sec too. Then I figured the silver would stand out better. I want people to see this thing. The last thing I need is some jackass backing into it cuz it blends into my car. The silver looks real nice too. Bling!


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I may have an extra silver one. It seems that 1up actually charged for and shipped me 2 racks; both the 'Single Quik Rack with the AD-ON'.

Hopefully the charge gets reversed quickly but I don't know how they are stopping the shipment. I guess I will just deny the delivery if I'm home when it arrives on Thursday.

Now if any of you are in FTW, TX, stop by tomorrow and help me install my hitch.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

bad andy said:


> I thought about black for a sec too. Then I figured the silver would stand out better. I want people to see this thing. The last thing I need is some jackass backing into it cuz it blends into my car. The silver looks real nice too. Bling!


That was my exact thought. My black car, black bike and black rack would just camo'ed too well. I wanted people to see that I have something sticking out past my rear bumper. Here are a couple pictures of my silver rack


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Yeah, I've actually considered a lot of these points. I'm sure I'll be happy with whatever I get (which also suggests the cheaper option is the way to go), but that isn't going to stop me from agonizing over the decision.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

I know I read somebody mention it somewhere in this thread that they had cut their finger at one point on their 1UP rack. I believe that person sanded down certain edges.

The first day I installed it I had a paper cut like slice, problem is I couldn't pin point where it happened. Today, while installing the rack into the hitch the rack cut me, well more like shaved down my finger pretty bad. I didn't feel it, but as I walked back into the garage the blood started trickling FAST. I could barely remove pressure and take a pic before blood ran down my arm.

I am pretty upset that this thing gashed me so deep, you can see in the pics below this isn't a cut more like it shaved skin and some flesh off clean. Took 1 good hour of serious pressure to stop the bleeding, there isn't anything to stitch really.

I went back outside and looked over the rack REALLY well, and am still unsure as to the cause of this. No rack should under any circumstances have an edge that can do this. I'll contact 1UP later tonight to see what they say. This is probably the 20th time I've installed/removed it between my two vehicles.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> I know I read somebody mention it somewhere in this thread that they had cut their finger at one point on their 1UP rack. I believe that person sanded down certain edges.
> 
> The first day I installed it I had a paper cut like slice, problem is I couldn't pin point where it happened. Today, while installing the rack into the hitch the rack cut me, well more like shaved down my finger pretty bad. I didn't feel it, but as I walked back into the garage the blood started trickling FAST. I could barely remove pressure and take a pic before blood ran down my arm.
> 
> ...


I hope they tell you to be more careful :thumbsup:


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

racerwad said:


> I hope they tell you to be more careful :thumbsup:


...OR...wear gloves...

That does look painful. My rack will be here tomorrow and if it cuts be, I'm gonna kick it...


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

What are you hoping they say???...you don't even know where you cut yourself,so how could 1up possibly help you? Comes across as you're hoping for compensation...


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

_Alberto_ said:


> I know I read somebody mention it somewhere in this thread that they had cut their finger at one point on their 1UP rack. I believe that person sanded down certain edges.
> 
> The first day I installed it I had a paper cut like slice, problem is I couldn't pin point where it happened. Today, while installing the rack into the hitch the rack cut me, well more like shaved down my finger pretty bad. I didn't feel it, but as I walked back into the garage the blood started trickling FAST. I could barely remove pressure and take a pic before blood ran down my arm.
> 
> ...


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Mine will be delivered today.

I installed my hitch last night. I purchased it from Etrailer for $140 and installed it in 25 minutes. I was impressed as I am not that mechanically inclined.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

I am NOT hoping for compensation that is a scumbag motive. That thought never even crossed my mind.

I am 100% sure the rack cut me, what Im unsure of is where on the rack, so I can avoid that edge when handling it in the future. Some of you guys are such 1UP fan boys you failed to see the point in my post. And I'm not the only one who has experienced this.

There has to be an unfinished edge on my rack somewhere, 2 cuts in 1 month is not normal. I'm not bashing 1UP I love the rack, I simply wanted to share. Maybe when you, or your wives end up with a cut finger you will care, until then keep blaming me for handling it as anyone would have.

edit-page 37 someone mentions sharp edges and being careful, then someone chimed in with the possibility of sanding the edge but no follow up post.

Regardless if you think I'm being trivial or not, *be careful handling these things*. I've emailed 1UP to ask if they have had feedback regarding sharp edges cutting anyone to see what they say. People questioning my character and saying Id post anything like this for compensation are internet warriors who are too critical of things...


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> I am NOT hoping for compensation that is a scumbag motive. That thought never even crossed my mind.
> 
> I am 100% sure the rack cut me, what Im unsure of is where on the rack, so I can avoid that edge when handling it in the future. Some of you guys are such 1UP fan boys you failed to see the point in my post. And I'm not the only one who has experienced this.
> 
> ...


If you cut yourself, how isn't that your fault, when hundreds of other users haven't? It would be like someone getting hurt while riding. An injury is possible in almost any context - because it has happened doesn't mean it there is anything wrong apart from bad luck.

LOL, I didn't see your edit but maybe the rest of us are being careful and you're the one catching up.  I hope that you figure out how you were getting cut and that you can avoid it in the future. Good luck.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

There shouldn't be any edges on a bike rack sharp enough to cut anybody handling it. That's where some of us obviously have differing opinions. 

You guys think Its my fault; I think this shouldn't be possible. I find it amusing how you guys think because people don't post it that it hasn't happened before this. 

1UP was helpful via email.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

_Alberto_ said:


> There shouldn't be any edges on a bike rack sharp enough to cut anybody handling it. That's where some of us obviously have differing opinions.
> 
> You guys think Its my fault; I think this shouldn't be possible. I find it amusing how you guys think because people don't post it that it hasn't happened before this.
> 
> 1UP was helpful via email.


I for one agree with you 100%. I look forward to receiving mine on Friday, but wonder whether I need to try to find the cutting edge and sand it prophylactically. I worry a little about my kids around it too.

Did you ever figure out which part cut you? Did 1Up tell you where the most likely culprit is and the best way to sand it? I wouldn't want to ruin the finish needlessly.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

I'll PM you what 1UP said. All these other clowns who posts negatively towards me sharing an experience can continue their "1UP does no wrong" mentalities. 

I have not been the first to email them with this issue though.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I was careful with mine when I got it. The aluminum looks well machined and very precise. It appeared to me that so much precision could allow for some sharp edges, though I didn't run across any on mine. Perhaps some finishing processes were not carried out on yours and edges that might have been beveled down a bit were not? Good luck, and it's good to hear 1UP is taking care of you apparently.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> There shouldn't be any edges on a bike rack sharp enough to cut anybody handling it. That's where some of us obviously have differing opinions.
> 
> You guys think Its my fault; I think this shouldn't be possible. I find it amusing how you guys think because people don't post it that it hasn't happened before this.
> 
> 1UP was helpful via email.


I don't think you're the first to have cut yourself on the rack. I know mine has drawn blood because I walked into by accident and it took a bite out of my shin. I just think it's funny you came to complain about it. It's a mechanical device - just by looking at it you should be able to see that there are dozens of places you could pinch or cut a finger. It also starts to get heavy when you start adding extra trays - is it gravity's fault if you stub your toe when you drop it?

I'm glad 1up was helpful. Maybe you should share their input?

Really, I don't like knowing you got hurt and I wouldn't want it to happen to anyone else, either. I just think it's funny how upset you are about it. I would've just put a bandaid on it and told myself to be more careful


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Sigh

I'm not upset about it. All I wanted to do was share my experience. If I drop anything on my toes, pinch my finger on anything or slip and fall on something wet its MY FAULT. Walking into the rack is much different than what occurred. You cant be so dense people...

I don't see the connection to simply handling a rack like anyone else would and walking away cut from it. I've handled NSR, Allen and even cheap-o racks and never had something be so sharp as to cause a cut from holding it.

Are some of you that critical that you truly don't see the difference in these? Post 1493 sums up my thoughts on the subject best, I wont repeat myself.

I'll keep my experiences to myself and tread lightly among the bad a$$es on this forum. I'll keep laughing when I see you on the trails tits bouncing in your Jerseys, I'll be the guy with the bleeding finger


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> Sigh
> 
> I'm not upset about it. All I wanted to do was share my experience. If I drop anything on my toes, pinch my finger on anything or slip and fall on something wet its MY FAULT. Walking into the rack is much different than what occurred. You cant be so dense people...
> 
> ...


Whoa no need to get your feelings all hurt. Arguably, many forum users have used many racks and most of them haven't fallen victim to the sharp edges of their racks, bikes, or the morning paper.

Since you thought it was important to share that you were injured, why not share what 1up said? I want to know if I'm doing something wrong.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

_Alberto_ said:


> I'll PM you what 1UP said. All these other clowns who posts negatively towards me sharing an experience can continue their "1UP does no wrong" mentalities.
> 
> I have not been the first to email them with this issue though.


By all means, please share what you found out from 1Up.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Got mine and it didn't even cut me.

Seems like a cool rack, love it so far but then again, I have only loaded and unloaded the bike.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

_Alberto_ said:


> I'll PM you what 1UP said. All these other clowns who posts negatively towards me sharing an experience can continue their "1UP does no wrong" mentalities.
> 
> I have not been the first to email them with this issue though.


Quit being over dramatic and share what they said. I would love to hear it.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> There shouldn't be any edges on a bike rack sharp enough to cut anybody handling it. That's where some of us obviously have differing opinions.
> 
> You guys think Its my fault; I think this shouldn't be possible. I find it amusing how you guys think because people don't post it that it hasn't happened before this.
> 
> 1UP was helpful via email.


It would literally take me 30 minutes or less to closely examine the whole, _entire_ rack for sharp edges.

Get crackin!


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

dirt farmer said:


> It would literally take me 30 minutes or less to closely examine the whole, _entire_ rack for sharp edges.
> 
> Get crackin!


Oh crap, my bike cut me....I'm calling Yeti....


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Just ordered mine. Went with the silver for all the reasons mentioned earlier in the thread.

Also, I knew they were based out of Wisconsin but I didn't realize they were in Platteville. I grew up about half an hour from there. 

If I ever need warranty service I can just drop it off when I visit my parents.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Got the rack yesterday. Works great, but wow, the squealing when I move the arms is deafening. I seem to recall that coming up in this thread, so I'll have to read back through and see if I can find out what, if anything, people did about it.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

nemebean said:


> Got the rack yesterday. Works great, but wow, the squealing when I move the arms is deafening. I seem to recall that coming up in this thread, so I'll have to read back through and see if I can find out what, if anything, people did about it.


But wait! It bugged me, but think of it this way.... It may alert you to a thief opening the rack and taking off with your bike! So, I was going to grease the pivots and said I'll just leave it. Many times I'm in a restaurant with open windows or outdoor seating, but my car and bike are around the corner. I could easily hear this rack open. Coffee shop too and my girlfriend's apartment. Her windows face the p lot and you can hear a mouse fart. Many times after a long ride, I'd stop over and leave the bike in rack and take a nap on her couch b4 heading home etc.

Also, I do lock my bike in the rack, but I call this the alarm feature!


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Wipe the rail with a rag and some oil. It won't diminish gripping power but will stop the squeal...


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

OscarW said:


> Wipe the rail with a rag and some oil. It won't diminish gripping power but will stop the squeal...


It hasn't been the rail that makes the noise in my case. It's the main pivot bushings on the wheel arms.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

I use some dry PTFE chain lube on the pivots and they're quiet 'n smooth.

Edit: it's the white lightning "clean ride"


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Grease the arms, smooth and quite afterwards.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I have used this rack about 7 times now and I absolutely love it.

Even though my wife initially stated that it looks like a scooter carrier, for old people, now she says she understands the simplistic beauty of it.

I may need to grease my arms too as it is annoying.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

I'm pretty sure mine is the arms. I wasn't sure if lubing them would mess up the locking, but it sounds like that should be fine. Thanks!


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Has anyone actually contacted 1UP to make sure lubing, or greasing any part of the arms or the pivots is recommended?


edit..just got off the phone with Robbie from 1UP. Lubing or greasing the arms will result in dirt and crud build up which in turn will create more noise. Lubing the gold bolt at the end of the tray is acceptable, but really has no bearing on the glides or arms. Basically, to each his own. I'll leave mine as they are.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

The crud buildup issue is why I use a dry lube.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I'm leaving mine as it also.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I used some White Lightning on mine after daily use on dusty roads seemed to increase the squeal, but I must have overdone it a bit because I had to work the arms a while before it was finding enough friction to hold firm again. In hindsight, just hosing it down to clean it off seems like a better idea to me.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Don't over-lube the arms! Use a rag and a bit of engine oil and all will be fine...


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

I'm hoping to order one of these on Tuesday, pending the sale of my Kuat NV.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

steadite said:


> I use some dry PTFE chain lube on the pivots and they're quiet 'n smooth.


 Me too. All good.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

I wonder if this would be an appropriate use for WD 40? As we have been reminded many times, it's not a lubricant so there's no concern about it causing slippage, and I wouldn't expect it to attract gunk either. But its squeak-removing properties are well documented.


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## GhostRing (Feb 29, 2012)

I didn't lube anything, just loosened the bolts a touch. _a touch._
Now it glides open much better and no extra gunk attractant.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

GhostRing said:


> I didn't lube anything, just loosened the bolts a touch. _a touch._
> Now it glides open much better and no extra gunk attractant.


If you did that then I would recommend checking the bolts every once in a while to make sure they didn't get any looser. By loosening it even just a tiny bit will break the locktite on the threads and make it lose its functionality.


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## dirtyoffroad (Apr 8, 2008)

I had been using a carrier that mounts on the spare tire,but finally picked this up and loving it.


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## swl7 (Sep 4, 2012)

I have this rack on my camry hybrid, but at times the bottom of the rack seems to scrape the pavement is barely angled downhill/uphill. I'm always careful to drive very slowly in these scenarios now, but does anyone else experience this? Mine's attached to a regular 1 1/4" (Trailer Hitch by Draw-Tite for 2009 Camry - 36416)


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

swl7 said:


> I have this rack on my camry hybrid, but at times the bottom of the rack seems to scrape the pavement is barely angled downhill/uphill. I'm always careful to drive very slowly in these scenarios now, but does anyone else experience this? Mine's attached to a regular 1 1/4" (Trailer Hitch by Draw-Tite for 2009 Camry - 36416)


I would guess that the Camry is just really low to the ground. I have no issues but I drive a small SUV.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

swl7 said:


> I have this rack on my camry hybrid, but at times the bottom of the rack seems to scrape the pavement is barely angled downhill/uphill. I'm always careful to drive very slowly in these scenarios now, but does anyone else experience this? Mine's attached to a regular 1 1/4" (Trailer Hitch by Draw-Tite for 2009 Camry - 36416)


yes, when I back out of my driveway (or back into) due to the large crown of the road plus my sloped driveway... but my Passat is also lowered. My old Yakima Holdup scraped also.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

I just received and used my 1up rack today. I feel that this is a much better rack than the Kuat NV I previously had. I'm also loving that it only weighs half of the Kuat since I drive to the trails 99% of the time by myself. No need for the extra bike tray although I will be purchasing the extension for when the wife wants to go ride, but it's nice having the option to add and remove a tray. Overall I'm more impressed by this rack than all the others I've looked at.


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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Just bought myself one of these roof type racks. I'm pretty excited to move on beyond that Saris Bones rack I've been using for the past six years!


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

I got to use mine to actually transport my bike (not riding yet, sadly), and it worked great. The squealing was much less than when I first used it too, so I might hold off on doing anything with it. Could be the combination of being brand new and bitter cold made it worse when I tried it before.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

My wife finally got to laugh at me regarding the 1up. We walked out of a restaurant, that we were dining at, only to see 8 people gathered around my empty rack. I told her let's just stand back and watch to see if there are admiring or going to try and steal it. I was good either way as I bet they couldn't figure out how to steal it. 

After 3 or 4 minutes it was obvious that they were admiring. I walk up and say "nice rack uhhh". One guy says yep but is it completely manual or is it automatic. I looked at him somewhat confused and said "manual"

He looked back at me and said "how do you lift the scooter up there".

I knew I would never here the end of it from my wife so I just went back in and got a beer...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Did you go back in on the scooter or did you walk?

Funny story. I'd never live it down either.

J.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

wormvine said:


> 1 up needs to lower their prices if they want to get more into the game IMO.
> I tried to convince a few of my friends to pony up for the system so we could share the add-on kits and car pool more but the Thule T2 is already more expensive than most people want to spend. The price point needs to come down closer to the T2.
> 1up USA 2 bike carrier $300+200 = $500
> T2 2 bike carrier $350
> ...


im wandering if they would give some kind of discount if you buy the 4 bike set up
as much as i think that its a great product, and probably one of the best platform rack, their prices are way too high


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> Did you go back in on the scooter or did you walk?
> 
> Funny story. I'd never live it down either.
> 
> J.


She told me from day one that it looks like a scooter rack. What makes it worse is I sell medical equipment for a living so when I open my hatch-back there are walkers, oxygen tanks and CPAPs back there and I drive an old man SUV. I always figure others at the trail head will feel sorry for me and then I have dreams, in my head, of how surprised they will be when I get on my Yeti and rip the trail. I quickly wake from the dream once I hit the trail as I can't breath, my HR is 400 bpm and my legs feel like 100 lb weights...Maybe I should see if the rack will hold a scooter.


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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

I have an odd question. Can a roof mounted model of these be put on a hitch rack of any kind? It's something I may like to upgrade to in the future (hitch).


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Dirt Bringer said:


> I have an odd question. Can a roof mounted model of these be put on a hitch rack of any kind? It's something I may like to upgrade to in the future (hitch).


 I don't think you can take a roof mounted model and use it as a hitch rack without some significant modifications as the mounting points on the trays are in different locations and the biggest thing, the roof mounted rack has a single try were the hitch rack tray is in 2 pieces so they can be folded for storage.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Dirt Bringer said:


> I have an odd question. Can a roof mounted model of these be put on a hitch rack of any kind? It's something I may like to upgrade to in the future (hitch).


You might have to do some fab'ing/mod'ing, but I've wondered if you could mount 2 or 3 on one of these stow-a-way frames?

StowAway Swingaway Frame - Frame Only #22.9


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

Finally took a pic of my rack, and figured I'd share it.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Naturally Aspirated said:


> Finally took a pic of my rack, and figured I'd share it.


Cool... You using the Hidden Hitch model?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Thrawn said:


> Cool... You using the Hidden Hitch model?


I'd love to know as well. The MKVI GTI is on my radar for my WRX replacement pretty soon and I've been reading on VWvortex that it's basically impossible to mount a hitch with any aftermarket catback. Is yours stock?


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

Thrawn said:


> Cool... You using the Hidden Hitch model?


I'm using the Draw-Tite hitch which is the same as the Hidden Hitch.



eurospek said:


> I'd love to know as well. The MKVI GTI is on my radar for my WRX replacement pretty soon and I've been reading on VWvortex that it's basically impossible to mount a hitch with any aftermarket catback. Is yours stock?


My exhaust system is stock for now. I have also heard that aftermarket catbacks won't fit because of the hitch. When I do go aftermarket, I will just go custom anyways. So it's no issue for me.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

*PSA: Check your release levers*

I love my 1-up rack...that said, it almost dumped my bike. Apparently the lever released, allowing one arm to flop down away from the bike. One arm is not enough...my bike's handlebar end hit my rear window. Good thing it didn't break the window or fall the other way onto the street. Upon closer inspection, I think some grit got in the lever so it wasn't returning (it's supposed to grab the horizontal bar). I loosened the nylock nut and lubed the lever interface and it's working fine now. Be sure NOT to lube the horizontal bar the lever slides on (duh).


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Naturally Aspirated said:


> I'm using the Draw-Tite hitch which is the same as the Hidden Hitch.
> 
> My exhaust system is stock for now. I have also heard that aftermarket catbacks won't fit because of the hitch. When I do go aftermarket, I will just go custom anyways. So it's no issue for me.


I'm going to try the Neuspeed system for my TDI. The Y-section seems more set back than the other systems I have seen. Looks like it will clear the hitch where it hangs bolts to the passenger side.

Order my 1-UP now... Love this thread!


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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Does anyone know of any security options for the roof mounted version of this rack? The only thing holding it on are four bolts that are very quickly and easily removed with a wrench or ratchet. How is the security on the hitch mounted design?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Dirt Bringer said:


> Does anyone know of any security options for the roof mounted version of this rack? The only thing holding it on are four bolts that are very quickly and easily removed with a wrench or ratchet. How is the security on the hitch mounted design?


Securing the hitch rack to the car is solid. You could use some security nuts instead of the standard ones. They'll come with a non-standard tool to remove and install which will prevent someone "walking by" with a crescent or socket. But, like everything else, if someone wants it, it will only slow them down. Google "security nuts" and you're good to go.


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## bluejudad (Sep 7, 2011)

A scary, but ultimately funny thing happened to me. I was driving down the 10 freeway in LA and I looked in the rear view mirror in heavy traffic (no shock there). To my horror... my MTB was missing! I thought I was screwed and would have to buy a new bike. I pulled over to the shoulder, hopped out of the car and realized that the rack was not engaged in the street parallel position, but rather had tilted down towards the street hiding the bike from view. I'm sure it was user error, but, boy did I get a scare.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

bluejudad said:


> A scary, but ultimately funny thing happened to me. I was driving down the 10 freeway in LA and I looked in the rear view mirror in heavy traffic (no shock there). To my horror... my MTB was missing! I thought I was screwed and would have to buy a new bike. I pulled over to the shoulder, hopped out of the car and realized that the rack was not engaged in the street parallel position, but rather had tilted down towards the street hiding the bike from view. I'm sure it was user error, but, boy did I get a scare.


 I think I would have a heart attack right there behind the wheel if I thought my $4000+ bike fell off. Good to know the rack can still carry a bike in that position...not that you would ever have to.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

bluejudad said:


> A scary, but ultimately funny thing happened to me. I was driving down the 10 freeway in LA and I looked in the rear view mirror in heavy traffic (no shock there). To my horror... my MTB was missing! I thought I was screwed and would have to buy a new bike. I pulled over to the shoulder, hopped out of the car and realized that the rack was not engaged in the street parallel position, but rather had tilted down towards the street hiding the bike from view. I'm sure it was user error, but, boy did I get a scare.


that happened to me with my Yakima Holdup....


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## banksd1983 (Jun 18, 2007)

Has the price on these ever changed? I finally saw a black one in person today and kind of want it now, but seeing how there's no used marked on these yet here in So Cal, I'm having a hard time justifying $350 for a one bike rack for now. 

someone a while back mentioned they had them on ebay for a $100 off?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

banksd1983 said:


> Has the price on these ever changed? I finally saw a black one in person today and kind of want it now, but seeing how there's no used marked on these yet here in So Cal, I'm having a hard time justifying $350 for a one bike rack for now.
> 
> someone a while back mentioned they had them on ebay for a $100 off?


They had them on eBay but was for the same price.


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

I might ordered the 2 bike rack in silver. If I like the rack Ill order the 2 bike add on later.

Id really like a Rat Rack or Arbutus rack though.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

banksd1983 said:


> Has the price on these ever changed? I finally saw a black one in person today and kind of want it now, but seeing how there's no used marked on these yet here in So Cal, I'm having a hard time justifying $350 for a one bike rack for now.
> 
> someone a while back mentioned they had them on ebay for a $100 off?


Other than people finding the occasional used one, I don't think you can get these for less than MSRP. I spent many months looking at these and never saw/heard of any deals on new ones.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

racerwad said:


> Securing the hitch rack to the car is solid. You could use some security nuts instead of the standard ones. They'll come with a non-standard tool to remove and install which will prevent someone "walking by" with a crescent or socket. But, like everything else, if someone wants it, it will only slow them down. *Google "security nuts" and you're good to go.*


Might be a good idea to replace the nylok nuts for the wheel arms


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

(disregard post)


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

racerwad said:


> Whoa no need to get your feelings all hurt. Arguably, many forum users have used many racks and most of them haven't fallen victim to the sharp edges of their racks, bikes, or the morning paper.
> 
> Since you thought it was important to share that you were injured, why not share what 1up said? I want to know if I'm doing something wrong.


Why is everyone being a bunch of *****?

I just got my brand spanking new 1up rack today. As I was mounting it, getting ready to tighten the hitchbolt, I noticed I was bleeding. Not as bad as Alberto's photo, but there was blood. The edges of this rack are sharp. I have not seen another rack with these many sharp corners. Maybe 1up should consider a more rounded finish?


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

wasabiboi said:


> Why is everyone being a bunch of *****?
> 
> I just got my brand spanking new 1up rack today. As I was mounting it, getting ready to tighten the hitchbolt, I noticed I was bleeding. Not as bad as Alberto's photo, but there was blood. The edges of this rack are sharp. I have not seen another rack with these many sharp corners. Maybe 1up should consider a more rounded finish?


I'm not sure why you quoted me here? In the post you quoted I said there was no need to get upset but the first line of your post is how upset you are...I'm not sure what the big deal is?


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

racerwad said:


> I'm not sure why you quoted me here? In the post you quoted I said there was no need to get upset but the first line of your post is how upset you are...I'm not sure what the big deal is?
> 
> *Really, I don't like knowing you got hurt and I wouldn't want it to happen to anyone else, either. I just think it's funny how upset you are about it. I would've just put a bandaid on it and told myself to be more careful *
> 
> *most of them haven't fallen victim to the sharp edges of their racks, bikes, or the morning paper. *


I don't know what you're trying to say here. But it's hard to read emotions through the internet.

I had the impression you were making fun of him and calling him a wuss.

While he had a legitimate concern over sharp edges that shouldn't be on any $500 USA made product. Poor Quality control it seems.

Here is a photo of my cuts which were bleeding, 24 hours later. The camera doesn't show much, but in person it's not pretty. I can't even properly grip my bars because it stings too much. Maybe I'm a wuss too, but a rack shouldn't cause this.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

wasabiboi said:


> I don't know what you're trying to say here. But it's hard to read emotions through the internet.
> 
> *I had the impression you were making fun of him and calling him a wuss*.
> 
> ...


I think it's interesting that you took the time give me a negative rep writing, "I made fun of another user" but in your post you chose to hedge your bets and say you were "under the impression you were making fun..." Did I make fun or were you just under the impression that was what I was going for?

Anyhow, in the interest of safety, which part cut you? The other injured party said they got in touch with 1up and got some kind of feedback but we've never heard back. If there is some sort of inherent danger, maybe someone who has been victimized by this rack should share their story so that others can be spared?

To answer your question, yes, I think you are a wuss if you can't hold your bars because it "stings too much" based on the photo you posted. I would be embarrassed to post that and claim it even hurt. Obviously, I'm insensitive, but I'm too callous to notice.

You are right in that the rack (or any product) should not cause us personal harm but if you can't point out which part is machined too sharply then I'm still a little skeptical that it's the rack that's fundamentally flawed versus operator error.

Anyhow, I'm sorry your hand is hurt and hopefully you'll be back on your bike soon. Good luck!


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

racerwad said:


> I think it's interesting that you took the time give me a negative rep writing, "I made fun of another user" but in your post you chose to hedge your bets and say you were "under the impression you were making fun..." Did I make fun or were you just under the impression that was what I was going for?
> 
> Anyhow, in the interest of safety, which part cut you? The other injured party said they got in touch with 1up and got some kind of feedback but we've never heard back. If there is some sort of inherent danger, maybe someone who has been victimized by this rack should share their story so that others can be spared?
> 
> ...


I never asked a question. But thanks for your concern, my mother put a bandaid on it and gave it a kiss. I'm learning how to ride singlehanded now. :thumbsup:

But the point is, that racks aren't supposed to cut the user. I fail to see why anyone can assume this would be operator error. Is there a magic way to mount a rack? If you take the time to look at your rack, it has edges. Sharp edges. Lifting 50lbs + sharp edges = cutting. It's like lifting a dull-ish 50lbs knife with multiple edges.

Alberto and I were just voicing our concerns, letting future 1up owners know that the rack can cut you. And it seems like some people who don't get cut by their racks think we're crazy or something. **** happens. We're not hating on the racks, in-fact, we love them.

And the rep thing, eye for an eye man. Don't get too worked up over it. Of course, since you're insensitive, it shouldn't bother you too much.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

wasabiboi said:


> But the point is, that racks aren't supposed to cut the user. I fail to see why anyone can assume this would be operator error. Is there a magic way to mount a rack? If you take the time to look at your rack, it has edges. Sharp edges. Lifting 50lbs + sharp edges = cutting. It's like lifting a dull-ish 50lbs knife with multiple edges
> 
> ...And the rep thing, eye for an eye man. Don't get too worked up over it. Of course, since you're insensitive, it shouldn't bother you too much.


I guess you summed up the first part my point perfectly here. You're right, racks aren't supposed to cut the user and I have taken the time to take a look at the rack and see that it has sharp edges and pinch points. I like your metaphor that it's akin to a 50lb dull knife.

The second part of my point is this: as a user, it's _our responsibility_ to operate the dull-knife-rack _carefully_. I've never cut myself and it appears that a handful of others haven't, either. Moreoever, if I had cut myself, I wouldn't blame the maker; I would just tell myself to be more careful next time. If anything, one huge plus to the 1up racks are their quality control and attention to detail.

I don't think the users that cut themselves are "crazy" per se. I think you put it better: "wusses." 

As for the rep thing, I don't see how it's an "eye for an eye"? I never left you or the other guy a negative rep so I don't even see how that's relevant? It just seemed like a "wussy" way to make a point without being too confrontational.


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

haha touche. It appears that someone else repped me down for the same reason. You can if you want, so it's truly an "eye for an eye" 

I guess some of us are wussies and some are BAMFs.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

All this discussion prompted me to look over my rack. Just curious what parts did cut some of you guys? On mine, the wheel rails, pivoting support beams, and all the chunkiest pieces in the middle are nicely chamfered (just slightly) so no sharp edges there. The only area on mine that appears to be potentially sharp is the horizontal rail the slide-lock moves on. Is this where the danger zone is?


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Old bike


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

wasabiboi said:


> I don't know what you're trying to say here. But it's hard to read emotions through the internet.
> 
> I had the impression you were making fun of him and calling him a wuss.
> 
> ...


Yowch!!

Yeah, I've had that too. I scraped my calf and shin on my 1Up about a zillion times, just by walking my clumsy ass around the car and scraping on the edge.

Agreed, this high bling pricetag USA made product should not have sharp edges on it. I otherwise love the rack, but I really think they should take the time with a sander and round off some of the edges before anodizing. One of two of my pet peeves about this otherwise awesome rack.

The other is that they should be using metric hardware, not SAE.

That said, I'm still saving up some cash for the second rack tray.

Here's a pic from Friday, all loaded up and driving off to Sea Otter:


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## thenate1 (Apr 23, 2013)

kntr said:


> I might ordered the 2 bike rack in silver. If I like the rack Ill order the 2 bike add on later.
> 
> Id really like a Rat Rack or Arbutus rack though.


I wanted to see how both of those compare (price wise) too.

I emailed Rat Rack and was told by Loyal (the owner) that they make those custom to order and don't ship down here to the US.

Arbutus emailed back with this:

"Hello,

Thanks for your inquiry but we've switched over to an arrangement with another manufacturer for a 2013 product line, based on similar technology, but with some innovative folding and bike retention features. These should be available through regular retail channels in Spring 2013: Vertical Hitch Racks « Swagman

Contact Rob at Swagman if you'd like to know more: [email protected]

Thanks,
Strahan Loken"

So thanks to this thread, I ordered a silver 2 carrier...thanks everyone, now how to tell my wife?


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

thenate1 said:


> I wanted to see how both of those compare (price wise) too.
> 
> I emailed Rat Rack and was told by Loyal (the owner) that they make those custom to order and don't ship down here to the US.
> 
> ...


I did the same thing and got the same replies. I live 5 hours from Rat Rack so I think I will order one from them and go pick it up. They are spendy though.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

That does look nice. Using it with my single bike would offend my sense of symmetry though.


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

Man you guys suck. After browsing all 63 pages I caved and ordered a 1Up. I was set on ordering a hang and swing for two bikes (budget reasons) but I think I'll be happy with this more. For now ill just throw the second bike in the car. 
I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy so time to order a supplemental lock for it. No telling when another 1Up owner might get greedy and use their tool to take mine.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

Just installed R LED taillights so I had to share! Also it's been about a month since I sold my NV and got this rack. I don't regret it one bit! :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

OEM or Depos?


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## commandoNate (Apr 17, 2013)

I've got a question for you rack owners. How far will this rack need to engage into the receiver hitch? I'm building a custom bumper with an integrated 1 1/4" receiver to haul bikes so I want to make sure that this thing will fit when I get around to getting one.

Also if you could measure the height (vertical offset) from the receiver to the first bike tray. It looks to be in the 6-8" range but I'm putting this on a lowered bug so I wanna make sure I'm not too close to the ground.

Thanks!!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

commandoNate said:


> I've got a question for you rack owners. How far will this rack need to engage into the receiver hitch? I'm building a custom bumper with an integrated 1 1/4" receiver to haul bikes so I want to make sure that this thing will fit when I get around to getting one.
> 
> Thanks!!


I would say at least 3" deep.


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## mhopton (Nov 27, 2005)

Finally got my new 1Up today. Stupid easy to setup out of the box. I have the add-on, too, but only have one tray on for now.

Oh yeah, I sliced the piss out of my hand on the sharp edges. I even knew to look for them and it still bit me. Not a big deal.

Looks good with a Stache on board.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

eurospek said:


> OEM or Depos?


Can you tell the difference? 



commandoNate said:


> I've got a question for you rack owners. How far will this rack need to engage into the receiver hitch? I'm building a custom bumper with an integrated 1 1/4" receiver to haul bikes so I want to make sure that this thing will fit when I get around to getting one.
> 
> Also if you could measure the height (vertical offset) from the receiver to the first bike tray. It looks to be in the 6-8" range but I'm putting this on a lowered bug so I wanna make sure I'm not too close to the ground.
> 
> Thanks!!


The top of the receiver to the first bike tray is about 8". The distance from the receiver to the bike tray is about 12.5".


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

This is for the 2" rack, so I don't know if the 1 1/4" has the same measurements in terms of how far in it needs to engage the receiver hitch. The instructions say to insert it 2" past the locking ball. I wasn't sure whether that meant from the center of the ball or from the edge of it, so I made my mark at the edge, which means I go in at least 4.5". It would be 4" in if you measured from the center of the ball....

Again, maybe the 1 1/4" has different specs, so perhaps tonyride1 was right with a 3" estimate, but for the 2" rack that is not enough per 1upUSA specs... The company is easy to get a hold of by phone (probably by email too) - unless someone else with a 1 1/4" can confirm, I would call them for sure before building anything!

(The dotted line is the 2" from the end of ball mark - I make sure that line is hidden. I make sure I can still see the solid line when installed - in that position, the rack can be folded vertically and I can still open my Q7's rear hatch. )


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

albertdc said:


> This is for the 2" rack, so I don't know if the 1 1/4" has the same measurements in terms of how far in it needs to engage the receiver hitch. The instructions say to insert it 2" past the locking ball. I wasn't sure whether that meant from the center of the ball or from the edge of it, so I made my mark at the edge, which means I go in at least 4.5". It would be 4" in if you measured from the center of the ball....
> 
> Again, maybe the 1 1/4" has different specs, so perhaps tonyride1 was right with a 3" estimate, but for the 2" rack that is not enough per 1upUSA specs... The company is easy to get a hold of by phone (probably by email too) - unless someone else with a 1 1/4" can confirm, I would call them for sure before building anything!
> 
> (The dotted line is the 2" from the end of ball mark - I make sure that line is hidden. I make sure I can still see the solid line when installed - in that position, the rack can be folded vertically and I can still open my Q7's rear hatch. )


Acturally the 1-1/4" has the same distance measurements. I wasn't aware of the 2" minimum past the ball (edge) so I change my answer from 3" to 4.5".


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

LOL wow , i cant imagine how you guys cut yourself? Where are you holding the rack by and how are you operating it ? Just by looking at the rack and the material its made of you should know based off common sense to be careful with it. Not for nothing but those scratches look like cat claws or something from a simple small spill on a trail . Suck it up and get over it . You can also sand down edges as most have said or you can even apply some type of self adhesive to the edges. You guys even said you have read somewhere about the edges so you were already cautioned about it . Learn to operate the rack properly and with my caution , or carry some hello kitty bandaids with ya  ..

As for greasing up the slide arms , i would just run some alcohol on them to clean them up .. The noise might be annoying but hey it works .


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## commandoNate (Apr 17, 2013)

Naturally Aspirated said:


> Just installed R LED taillights so I had to share! Also it's been about a month since I sold my NV and got this rack. I don't regret it one bit! :thumbsup:


So how far off the ground is your receiver on this car? I'm looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of 7" off the ground for my receiver tube. (measured to the bottom).

Thank you all for the info, I'll post some pics when I get the bumper built and the rack on.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

commandoNate said:


> So how far off the ground is your receiver on this car? I'm looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of 7" off the ground for my receiver tube. (measured to the bottom).
> 
> Thank you all for the info, I'll post some pics when I get the bumper built and the rack on.


Close enough. Bottom of my receiver to ground came in at 6.9". And fyi, my GTI is lowered on VW DG springs


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## KevinGT (Dec 25, 2012)

How supportive are the racks for front-to-back motion? It appears the only thing keeping the bike from either slamming forward into the car's trunk (in an emergency stop) or dropping off the back (during fast acceleration) is a couple of flat aluminum bars.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

KevinGT said:


> How supportive are the racks for front-to-back motion? It appears the only thing keeping the bike from either slamming forward into the car's trunk (in an emergency stop) or dropping off the back (during fast acceleration) is a couple of flat aluminum bars.


After looking at photos, admit ..... This is a good question. I have a 1Up and it is very stable and secure. Nothing on this rack is thin or flimsy. The aluminum bars are plenty rigid. Even in the event of a slow leak, I believe the 1Up would hold a bike as well or better than every other design. I have used 1Up for about six months after ten years with high end roof racks and will never go back.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

KevinGT said:


> How supportive are the racks for front-to-back motion? It appears the only thing keeping the bike from either slamming forward into the car's trunk (in an emergency stop) or dropping off the back (during fast acceleration) is a couple of flat aluminum bars.


It's really not a problem. If you can find a close-up from the end of the rack, you'll see that the pieces that touch the tire are notched to hold it from moving front to back, and the tray itself is V-shaped for the same reason. There's a tiny bit of wiggle at 70 mph (mostly from the handlebars trying to turn), but nothing to worry about.

If your tire went flat it might allow it to move around some, but I don't think it could possibly get out of the rack. Letting it flop around in the rack could be bad for your wheel though, so I would recommend stopping and tightening it down if that happens. I seem to recall that people have used the rack with flat tires and it worked fine, so as long as the arms are tight it's not a problem. I think I would fix the tire before travelling any long distances though.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

I've routinely floored it from a stop and tested this rack up to 110 mph and it's stable. No issues at all with this rack.


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

UPS just delivered my Quik Rack. WOW. Very substantial. The pictures online are deceiving until you get it in your hands. There's a lot of meat to it. Worth the $$$? You bet now that I own one. I took it out of the box and threw on the hitch and my bike on it ready to go in less than a minute. No joke. Initial impressions are very secure.
The flat aluminum bars you speak of holding up the arms are about 5.8mm thick. The arms themselves are about 9.3mm thick. I just measured them with my digital calipers. They aren't thin like pictures depict. 
Oh and cuts? What cuts? I man handled the $h!t out of the rack and did not receive one cut on my hands.

(Disregard the missing rear shock. It's out for a custom tune.)


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

KevinGT said:


> How supportive are the racks for front-to-back motion? It appears the only thing keeping the bike from either slamming forward into the car's trunk (in an emergency stop) or dropping off the back (during fast acceleration) is a couple of flat aluminum bars.


LOL you'd think someone would've mentioned it if bikes routinely fell off the back or smashed into their cars...


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Naturally Aspirated said:


> I've routinely floored it from a stop and *tested this rack up to 110 mph* and it's stable. No issues at all with this rack.


Purely in the name of science, I'm sure.


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)

nemebean said:


> Purely in the name of science, I'm sure.


I forgot to mention all testing was done in Mexico. :lol:


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Naturally Aspirated said:


> I forgot to mention all testing was done in Mexico. :lol:


Good to know.


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

nemebean said:


> If your tire went flat it might allow it to move around some, but I don't think it could possibly get out of the rack. Letting it flop around in the rack could be bad for your wheel though, so I would recommend stopping and tightening it down if that happens. I seem to recall that people have used the rack with flat tires and it worked fine, so as long as the arms are tight it's not a problem.


My fat bike tire went flat in the rack this winter. No issues getting it home, although to be fair I wasn't driving at highway speeds.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Has anyone ever had an issue with the red locking levers? My rack is just 2 months old and one of the levers is sticking so bad that it has actually gouged the arm. This lever seems like it has more lateral movement to it but all the bolts seem tight.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Bailey44 said:


> Has anyone ever had an issue with the red locking levers? My rack is just 2 months old and one of the levers is sticking so bad that it has actually gouged the arm. This lever seems like it has more lateral movement to it but all the bolts seem tight.


Try loosening the nylock nut on the bolt holding the lever until it doesn't stick.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

My right lever was sticking so I used a drop of squirt lube on the top and sides of the silver arm. Helped for several months, then started again, so I lube again. So far, so good. Next time, I'll try loosening the nylock nut.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

cytoe said:


> Try loosening the nylock nut on the bolt holding the lever until it doesn't stick.


I will try that but the sticky lever already feels way looser than the 3 others(2 bike set up) It has a lot of lateral play and easily touches the sliding track.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I spoke to 1up yesterday and he said while the arm is down and locked, forcefully pull up on it without unlocking the lever and it would tighten the pivot bracket back up and work fine.

I got out my receipt and was ready to send it back but then I tried what he said and it works likes it's brand new again. I'm not sure how that tightened the red lever but all the slop is gone now and it works great.

Easy enough fix.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> I spoke to 1up yesterday and he said while the arm is down and locked, forcefully pull up on it without unlocking the lever and it would tighten the pivot bracket back up and work fine.
> 
> I got out my receipt and was ready to send it back but then I tried what he said and it works likes it's brand new again. I'm not sure how that tightened the red lever but all the slop is gone now and it works great.
> 
> Easy enough fix.


One small problem and you're ready to return it? The nice thing is they'd take it no questions asked.


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

Did some minor safety and security mods this afternoon. I need all the visibility (within reason) I can get from the rear of my car. The drivers here in Houston all suck and don't pay attention half of the time. I threw some extra reflective strips on but didn't go overkill. I also put on a Kryptonite Mini-7 lock on it to secure it to the hitch. It fits just fine but was a bear to get the U-latch through the hitch loop on my Curt hitch. I managed..


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

racerwad said:


> One small problem and you're ready to return it? The nice thing is they'd take it no questions asked.


 I thought I only had 60 days to return it and that is coming up quickly so yes, I would have been willing to return it. There is a certain amount of security I am looking for in a $600 rack that carries 10k worth of bikes. Looks like it was an easy fix so hopefully I can keep it as I love everything else about it.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

jizzim said:


> Did some minor safety and security mods this afternoon. I need all the visibility (within reason) I can get from the rear of my car. The drivers here in Houston all suck and don't pay attention half of the time. I threw some extra reflective strips on but didn't go overkill. I also put on a Kryptonite Mini-7 lock on it to secure it to the hitch. It fits just fine but was a bear to get the U-latch through the hitch loop on my Curt hitch. I managed..


Nice setup. I'm using the same brand hitch on my WRX and U-Lock for the past two seasons. Totally love the combo and if the ball mechanism ever fails, the hitch has no where to slide out on me. As for fishing the U-lock through the hitch loop, I can now do it blindly lol, it's all a matter of practice. :thumbsup:


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> I thought I only had *60 days* to return it and that is coming up quickly so yes, I would have been willing to return it. There is a certain amount of security I am looking for in a $600 rack that carries 10k worth of bikes. Looks like it was an easy fix so hopefully I can keep it as I love everything else about it.


You're 100% right here. I was wrong about the return policy. I must've confused their return policy with their theft policy. I'm glad that you got your issue resolved and thanks for sharing it. I'm sure you're not the only one to run into it.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

Bailey44 said:


> I spoke to 1up yesterday and he said while the arm is down and locked, forcefully pull up on it without unlocking the lever and it would tighten the pivot bracket back up and work fine.
> 
> I got out my receipt and was ready to send it back but then I tried what he said and it works likes it's brand new again. I'm not sure how that tightened the red lever but all the slop is gone now and it works great.
> 
> Easy enough fix.


Interesting and thanks for the update. I'll give it a try the next time mine start to stick.


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

eurospek said:


> Nice setup. I'm using the same brand hitch on my WRX and U-Lock for the past two seasons. Totally love the combo and if the ball mechanism ever fails, the hitch has no where to slide out on me. As for fishing the U-lock through the hitch loop, I can now do it blindly lol, it's all a matter of practice. :thumbsup:


I ended up scraping the bottom of the Kryptonite lock today backing out of my driveway. I gotta be more cautious now. Stupid lowered cars. I feel like going 4x4 mode again and putting on the stock suspension.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Bailey44 said:


> I thought I only had 60 days to return it and that is coming up quickly so yes, I would have been willing to return it. There is a certain amount of security I am looking for in a $600 rack that carries 10k worth of bikes. Looks like it was an easy fix so hopefully I can keep it as I love everything else about it.


That was the tipping point for me. I was deciding between the 1up and a kuat nv. 
A rack this expensive should have at least some kind of security built into it. Kind of like the inno rack which uses the same arm. Pick up an NV for 100 bucks less. It has a locking hitch pin, locking cable to secure bike and weighs identical with the two bike 1 up. And a much looking rack in my opinion


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

By "security" I mean a peace of mind that the rack will work as intended for several years. Security from theft doesn't really exist for bikes on a rack. A battery powered Sawzal will make quick work out of any security option.



digifun said:


> That was the tipping point for me. I was deciding between the 1up and a kuat nv.
> A rack this expensive should have at least some kind of security built into it. Kind of like the inno rack which uses the same arm. Pick up an NV for 100 bucks less. It has a locking hitch pin, locking cable to secure bike and weighs identical with the two bike 1 up. And a much looking rack in my opinion


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

The 1up customer service cant be beat , thats what you pay for and quality products .


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

Well I'm done with my security measures for the 1Up. It won't stop thieves that are willing and able that have tools but at least it'll put a damper on the non-experienced "smash and grab" type individuals as a good deterrent when I have to make a quick stop at a gas station or eat lunch within view of the goods.

The 7' Kryptonite KryptoFlex 710 was perfect for my setup. I cinch looped it around the circular bar on the 1Up and fed it through the front wheel, around the down tube, and then through the rear wheel and back to the beginning. I picked up the Masterlock combo lock at Home Depot. I didn't feel like adding another key to the keyring. Now I feel safer lugging my stuff around.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

digifun said:


> That was the tipping point for me. I was deciding between the 1up and a kuat nv.
> A rack this expensive should have at least some kind of security built into it. Kind of like the inno rack which uses the same arm. Pick up an NV for 100 bucks less. It has a locking hitch pin, locking cable to secure bike and weighs identical with the two bike 1 up. And a much looking rack in my opinion


1UpUSA has a master locking pin that you can get that will go through the wheels and lock them.

On any rack, the ability to defeat the "security" measures is a <30s issue. It's false security.

J.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

The locking pins won't do you much good if your bike have quick releases on the wheels. The only things that you would save are the wheels.

As it has been mentioned on numerous occasions, securing the bike is only meant as a deterrent for those quick opportunistic thieves. If someone wants your bike, they will have it.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Had the car loaded up yesterday.... the add-on is easy to mount.

But, since I didn't have some wrenches handy.... securing an older road bike with 650c wheels and tires were a no-go (it went on the fork mount roof rack)

P.S. My roadie friends are quite impressed by the 1up rack


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

This works well enough for me not to worry if I need to make a pit stop while traveling:















Kryptonite 5" lock thru the hitch and around the rack. The Kryptonite also locks the hasps on the 1/2" cable lock. One key solution.

It's good enough for some peace of mind, but I realize it's not Fort Knox.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

mfan said:


> The locking pins won't do you much good if your bike have quick releases on the wheels. The only things that you would save are the wheels.
> 
> As it has been mentioned on numerous occasions, securing the bike is only meant as a deterrent for those quick opportunistic thieves. If someone wants your bike, they will have it.


of course - as with any locking strategy.

You should never leave bikes unattended on your car - locked or not. A professional thief with power tools will be gone in 60 seconds regardless of what you do. There is no way to secure a bike to a car better than that because *any* of the racks are the fundamental weakness.

So, get over the security thing and keep an eye on your bikes.

When I have 4 bikes on my 1Up and we have to go into a restaurant or something. I park the car directly where we can see it, leave someone always responsible for watching it and I take the 1st bike in the stack, U lock with frame and back wheel then a cable through all the other bikes to the last one and that's U locked too. Takes a minute to set up and it makes the bikes a lot less attractive to steal. Preferably I park it next to someone else with better bikes totally unsecured. 

The #1 thing is I have good insurance.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

As mentioned by many, no lock or security system is 100% foolproof. However, not all thieves (potential thief who sees an opportunity) will have tools in hand on a bike stealing mission. But by having some kind of security system (locks) will keep an honest man (or woman) honest by making it difficult for them to just take your bike. The lock is simply a deterrent. Like others, I also park by vehicle in a spot where I can keep my eye on it when we go in to a restaurant after a ride. Vigilance and common sense is the best security system.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^ This....


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

Finally got around to taking a picture.

On highway speeds 70+ for 200 miles in blasting winds with some hectic driving, I'd say this rack passed all my expectations :thumbsup: .


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> This works well enough for me not to worry if I need to make a pit stop while traveling:
> View attachment 796575
> 
> View attachment 796576
> ...


I see you have a 2013 Trance X1? I have a 2008 Trance X1 and a 2013 Trance X 29er-0.


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## whitfield96 (Mar 18, 2011)

3-up on Wifey's stock 2003 Golf TDI. Yes this is marginal on exceeding the limits of the car / hitch. Much of the time it is just 2-up (2 Epics), adding the 3rd (carbon epic) still keeps the bikes under 100 Lb. Have not yet weighed the rack @ 3-up. Extreme caution to avoid enter / exit tail drag. BEST RACK EVER!!!


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

Got a new add-on for my rack this week. I noticed the bar that the red clamping doohickey rides on is now notched. I imagine it's for even more assurance the arms won't become loose (?). I haven't had an issue with my original tray, so time will tell if the new design is an improvement.

Sure does make a racket when folding the arms up. Ziiiiiiiiiip!















(Orig tray in back, new tray in front.)


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

Interesting! I have plans to order the add on as well.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Interesting indeed, as I never had an issue either.. I guess they ( 1Up) must have felt the need for more security.. Question is would they retrofit the older racks with this new feature???


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

I had one minor issue so far with one of the red latches. Water+dirt can gum up the latch. I pushed the arm down on the tire as usual on the bike tire but didn't pay attention to the red latch locking down on the slider bar. The water and dirt kept it from springing down. The rear tire was barely secured at the end of my 10 mile drive.
Wonder if they will sell a retro fit kit for the existing racks.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

OscarW said:


> Interesting indeed, as I never had an issue either.. I guess they ( 1Up) must have felt the need for more security.. Question is would they retrofit the older racks with this new feature???


Why bother retrofitting if there are no issues in your current configuration? I haven't had any issues either.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

Not sure I'd like the serrated design. Seems like you'd be stuck with discreet positions rather than infinite adjustability of tightness.

Another design change I noticed on the rack I recently bought is they are powder coating the tire trays now. You can see the gloss finish in post 1616. Not good or bad, just an OCD observation...


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

steadite said:


> Not sure I'd like the serrated design. Seems like you'd be stuck with discreet positions rather than infinite adjustability of tightness.
> 
> Another design change I noticed on the rack I recently bought is they are powder coating the tire trays now. You can see the gloss finish in post 1616. Not good or bad, just an OCD observation...


I agree, I think the serrated locking bar is the wrong fix to a really minor problem. I like the infinite amount of adjustment the original system had. Sometimes the locking lever has stuck on me so I just make sure it's cleaned and lightly lubricated. I also double check the levers after securing the arms. Voila - "problem" solved. NBD.


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## jizzim (Dec 1, 2006)

I'm guessing since there was a rolling revision to the rack then there must have been a small issue with them. Not every owner of the 1Up is on MTBR and not every problem is known or read about. 1Up could have easily just sent out a mass email to owners saying to keep the lever clean and lubed but instead they decided to revise it.


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

steadite said:


> Another design change I noticed on the rack I recently bought is they are powder coating the tire trays now. You can see the gloss finish in post 1616. Not good or bad, just an OCD observation...


I didn't even notice till you pointed it out but you're right. The new tray is definitely coated/painted vs the old one being anodized. Not sure if its powder coated though since there's a fair bit of orange peel texture.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Not sure I like those changes, and as ridiculous as it sounds, I don't like the fact that the add-ons won't match the original rack. Will make it look hodge-podge and unprofessional. When the day comes that I will want an add-on, I hope they will give the choice of the old version...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

I had the issue with the arms coming loose over and over. I called and they mentioned they were aware on a few very few, vehicles this was happening. They sent me new arms with thumb screws. I think the serrated lock stay is a must. You may not think so until you are the one with a $3000 bike(s) flopping around on the rack tooling down the freeway. 
This issue had nothing to do with clean, lubed not lubed, etc. as I tried everything to remedy the issue. It's a design flaw (for some) plain and simple. 
And there was no emial or other communication from them on this to xkean, lube, etc. 
Just because you don't have the issue, doesn't mean one doesn't exist for others. Differing levels of a vehicle's nvh characteristics may contribute to differing rack problems. 
Also, infinitely adjuatable will prob still be close enough with the serrations. You're pressing the arms against 2 compressible, air filled rubber ballons. 

I think this change was needed and I'm happy to see it. I'll try to score some of these new parts when available. 
I do think the new powder coating is a bummer. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Powder coating on aluminum doesn't last and is a step back in the quality department IMHO. Anodized aluminum last much longer but is more $$. I have anodize aluminum parts on my boat that are 13 years old and used in salt water almost daily and all is looking great. Powder coat comes off in less than a year. 
As far as the retaining system goes it has been good for me, but on a bad road a bungie cord between the two arms may provide extra security if need be.Just a thought..


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## ben_san (Jun 23, 2008)

I just bought a new 1 bike silver hitch rack and it has the serrated bar and powdercoated bed. I actually love the serrated bar and it makes the system feel amazingly secure. It doesn't seem to greatly effect adjustability and it is very reassuring when you get one last click as the tire compresses.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

ben_san said:


> I just bought a new 1 bike silver hitch rack and it has the serrated bar and powdercoated bed. I actually love the serrated bar and it makes the system feel amazingly secure. It doesn't seem to greatly effect adjustability and it is very reassuring when you get one last click as the tire compresses.


I just got a rack as well and although I haven't dealt with the previous version of the rack, I like the serrated feeling of security and you can get it pretty darn tight with it.

I'm not a fan of the powdercoating either. I kinda forgot about it and when I saw paint chipped off and flaking away I was confused and then after looking at it more closely, I was like....oh yea, that's the paint....lame.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

*Loving the 1up Racks*

Super happy with the 1up racks... I also bought the adapters so that I can take the trays off of the station wagon and carry 4 bikes on the back of the SUV. Both racks live on the vehicles full time and super easy to move the rack over to the RV to head out to a race.

I have noticed that with bikes on the roof, they wiggle back and forth more than they do on the back of the truck. I think its the orientation... and I just picked these up May - but they did not have the serrated bars on them.

I know some have bagged on the paint/powdercoat, but to my eye, just made more sense on the wagon!


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

I really like how the 1UP holds the rear wheel. I am really tired of the ratchet strap on all the other racks.


Yet my one knock on the rack was confirmed when I was looking at one at a race and another rider walked up, "Did you build that yourself?
"No, it almost $530 +shipping"


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Killroy said:


> Yet my one knock on the rack was confirmed when I was looking at one at a race and another rider walked up, "Did you build that yourself?
> "No, it almost $530 +shipping"


Why is that a knock? I would say "yes, I built it myself. Like it? I could build you one and delivered to you in less than a week for $750"


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

tonyride1 said:


> Why is that a knock? I would say "yes, I built it myself. Like it? I could build you one and delivered to you in less than a week for $750"


Thats funny.

Yet, I think the response would be:
"$750?? I have a guy that can make that for $200."


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Killroy said:


> Thats funny.
> 
> Yet, I think the response would be:
> "$750?? I have a guy that can make that for $200."


Then I would love to buy one for $200.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

@Bik02 - 1UpUSA has a great moneyback guarantee. Instead of doing the "what if" thing, why don't you buy one and try it out? Then you can critique to your heart's content on the real thing and if you don't like it, send it back. And we don't have to play "what-if" anymore.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

I have the One-Up single bike in black anodized. I went to check the 1UpUSA website to see about ordering a one bike add-on, and I see there is no longer any mention of the product being anodized... then I check this thread and learn that 1Up has started powder coating the black racks.

It's an obvious move to cut costs by using a lower-quality process. Now, if I buy the add on, it's not going to match my existing rack. Of course, the cost savings is not passed along to the customer; the add on still costs as much as it ever did.

The 1Up price point is hard for some folks to justify; fans of the product see it as the price of quality. This erodes that perception, IMO.

HUGE HUGE THUMBS DOWN on this highly [email protected]#$%^ questionable move. Way to un-distinguish yourself from the competition, 1Up.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

Does 1up have a warranty on the powercoat vs anodized?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Also no longer free shipping unless you spend over $500. I used to recommend them. Now it would be difficult for me to do so.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Yeah what's up with that. Although 9 bucks isn't much I think but surely would be nice to get the free shipping for the add ons. They've also included a Velcro strap to secure the rack to the hitch. Is that something new? Why not just have a hitch pin so we don't lose the rack.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

digifun said:


> Yeah what's up with that. Although 9 bucks isn't much I think but surely would be nice to get the free shipping for the add ons. They've also included a Velcro strap to secure the rack to the hitch. Is that something new? Why not just have a hitch pin so we don't lose the rack.


I have had the 1Up for over a year and mine came with the velcro loop strap. I think its just an added safety precaution in case the mechanical lock somehow comes undone. Honestly, its probably mostly for lawyer/liability reasons. I never use it anymore, although I might if I were making a really long road trip. So far I have never had a problem with the rack coming loose on its own.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I bought my 2-bike rack in March and was planning on getting a 1 bike add-on this summer and a second add-on in a year or two as my boys get older and bigger bikes. I'm really bummed about the powdercoat changes...so I emailed them.
Perhaps more people should email them and see whether they'll consider continuing to offer the anodized version, perhaps at the original price and the powder coat version a little cheaper? 
Anyway, if there is not a way to get an anodized add-on, I am considering returning it and getting a Kuat instead. After spending so much on the 1Up rack, I don't want it to be even more DIY looking with different finishes on it and don't want the powder coating flaking down the road.
So if the change bothers you, send them an email so they know that this will cause them to loose customers in the future.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

albertdc said:


> I bought my 2-bike rack in March and was planning on getting a 1 bike add-on this summer and a second add-on in a year or two as my boys get older and bigger bikes. I'm really bummed about the powdercoat changes...so I emailed them.
> Perhaps more people should email them and see whether they'll consider continuing to offer the anodized version, perhaps at the original price and the powder coat version a little cheaper?
> Anyway, if there is not a way to get an anodized add-on, I am considering returning it and getting a Kuat instead. After spending so much on the 1Up rack, I don't want it to be even more DIY looking with different finishes on it and don't want the powder coating flaking down the road.
> So if the change bothers you, send them an email so they know that this will cause them to loose customers in the future.
> ...


I agree. 1up was able to charge a premium because they provided the best product without shortcuts or apologies. TBH, I'd rather them charge more for the same quality if their costs have increased than charge the same for less. It isn't as if the rack is affordable but people buy the rack knowing that nothing on the market is better at any price.


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## PoisonDartFrog (Jul 8, 2010)

racerwad said:


> I agree. 1up was able to charge a premium because they provided the best product without shortcuts or apologies. TBH, I'd rather them charge more for the same quality if their costs have increased than charge the same for less. It isn't as if the rack is affordable but people buy the rack knowing that nothing on the market is better at any price.


This is a good point. Really what it boils down to IMO is that there is no longer any reason to pay more for the black (even though I think it looks better). You are better off saving your money and getting the natural silver rather than paying more for powder coated aluminum


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

PoisonDartFrog said:


> This is a good point. Really what it boils down to IMO is that there is no longer any reason to pay more for the black (even though I think it looks better). You are better off saving your money and getting the natural silver rather than paying more for powder coated aluminum


That's the thing, is that there no longer is "natural silver". The wheel tray which had been anodized silver is now powder coated (and more of a gray color than the rest of the aluminum).

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## 1upusa (Jun 10, 2013)

Thank you again to all that have purchased or tried our products. We did not go to the powder coat finish to cut cost by any means. Our prices have not changed on our racks for over 4 years. We've battled the anodized consistency on the trays this past winter and because of the large surface area, oxidation marks and "swirls" are impossible to avoid, so powder coat was our best option for just the trays. Every other part is still anodized and will continue to be. Black anodize takes 3 times longer than clear which is where the additional cost is. Hope this helps. 

I will not continue to reply back on this forum as our email and phone lines are always welcome.

Thanks again,

Robbie Lange
1UP USA


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

I don't know what's the big fuzz with the paint. It's a bike rack. There bound to get bang up, scratch up and anything else in between. What matters to me is it's durability, ease of use and customer support.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

I emailed 1Up about the anodizing vs powder coat, and promptly received the answer as posted above. The rack is high quality and anodizing is a PITA to do it well. I'll likely get the second tray even if there is a different finish on it than my 2 year old flawless rack has... Digifun said it well it is just a rack that will get scratched up with use..


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

I had an issue with the arm on my original 1up rack, they sent me a replacement arm out without ANY questions right away and no cost. I swapped it out and works great . The new retaining system i think is great for the extra security . I got the add on a few months back , doesnt have the new retaining system but it does have the powder coat on it , but who cares as long as it survives , does the job, and makes it easy for me to load and unload .


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Also emailed them and inquired about the powdercoat and new serrated lock arm design. Well we've heard about the anodizing issue but the change for the serrated was more so for roof racks and have carried over to the hitch racks now too.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

What is the serrated arm assembly? Can someone explain this?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Scott In MD said:


> What is the serrated arm assembly? Can someone explain this?


The top part of the horizontal piece that the locking mechanism and red lever slides on is no longer smooth. It now is serrated or has "teeth" on them so when the slide is released it is securely seated in a "tooth". If you look back on this thread some has posted a picture of it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I'm glad I got the add-on before they made all those changes so it matches the main rack. The rack is great and I love it. I wouldn't switch it for anything else out there right now but I can understand why some would be upset about miss matched pieces.


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## mpho (Jun 11, 2013)

Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

mpho said:


> Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...


There's 67 pages, plenty of info already. Just look. 
See page 43.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

I have first gen honda crv. It fits.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mpho said:


> Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...


My wife has a 2008 Toyota RAV4 and it fits without needing an extender.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

mpho said:


> Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...


There are a number of variables that might influence this. Choice of pedals, for example. You could measure how far your spare sticks out, but it seems like most of us are getting by without an extender.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mpho said:


> Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...


What vehicle do you have?


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

It's just a guess... but I bet any vehicle with a hitch & rear spare tire has already worked this out - I didn't even give it a thought when we rented an RV recently and it all fit just fine!


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## mpho (Jun 11, 2013)

I have a land cruiser 100 series...spare tire on a swing out...


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## wasabiboi (May 10, 2011)

mpho said:


> Thinking of ordering this rack...anyone of some pics of one with a spare tire? Thinking I might need the extender hitch...












no need for extender hitch. What vehicle do you have? what bike?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Anyone has any ideas on how to secure the 2nd tray to the 1st tray in addition to the 2 screws?
I'm seeing a lot of 1up racks around here and seems like it would be pretty easy for someone to steal the additional tray since they already have the allen key...not saying people would actually do that and maybe I"m just paranoid but still. Seems like it would be pretty easy...


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

I have been pondering the same idea. I thought about keeping thieves with pliers at bay but with the actual tool, you'd have to take it a step further.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Somewhere in this thread I saw that someone had drilled a hole through both plates near one of the bolts and fitted a padlock through.... You'd have to really be sure about measuring it all out, but that would be the best option IMHO...YMMV


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> Anyone has any ideas on how to secure the 2nd tray to the 1st tray in addition to the 2 screws?
> I'm seeing a lot of 1up racks around here and seems like it would be pretty easy for someone to steal the additional tray since they already have the allen key...not saying people would actually do that and maybe I"m just paranoid but still. Seems like it would be pretty easy...


I suppose you can use a U-lock to connect the two.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

pwu_1 said:


> Anyone has any ideas on how to secure the 2nd tray to the 1st tray in addition to the 2 screws?
> I'm seeing a lot of 1up racks around here and seems like it would be pretty easy for someone to steal the additional tray since they already have the allen key...not saying people would actually do that and maybe I"m just paranoid but still. Seems like it would be pretty easy...


I dunno about you but i dont walk around randomly with an Allen Key in my pocket , and im sure if someone wants to steal something it would be a bike not an " ad on " tray lol . Do you live in the hood or something that your paranoid :skep:


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

pwu_1 said:


> Anyone has any ideas on how to secure the 2nd tray to the 1st tray in addition to the 2 screws?
> I'm seeing a lot of 1up racks around here and seems like it would be pretty easy for someone to steal the additional tray since they already have the allen key...not saying people would actually do that and maybe I"m just paranoid but still. Seems like it would be pretty easy...


You do bring up a good point - I've often wondered if I'd come back to my older roof rack and have all the Yak parts taken (they were only big plastic wing nuts to attach). I do know people will take anything if its not nailed down: I have a jeep and you can not leave ANYTHING in that without the roof off... I've heard of guys getting their seats unbolted and ripped off, too at trailheads!


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

aedubber said:


> I dunno about you but i dont walk around randomly with an Allen Key in my pocket , and im sure if someone wants to steal something it would be a bike not an " ad on " tray lol . Do you live in the hood or something that your paranoid :skep:


It wouldn't be that off base to imagine a 1up owner wanting another add-on and not wanting to spend the $200 on one. Especially at a trail head where there may be no-one around.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

aedubber said:


> I dunno about you but i dont walk around randomly with an Allen Key in my pocket , and im sure if someone wants to steal something it would be a bike not an " ad on " tray lol . Do you live in the hood or something that your paranoid :skep:


I can't speak for PWU_1 but perhaps a little paranoia can be a good thing. Just the other day came back to the lot after a ride and we come to find out from another rider that his trunk mount rack was just stolen. (This wasn't the hood either, far from it)

Granted, those things are pretty easy to take off, and the 1Up is definitely more difficult. However as an owner with the special tool, you'd have to be a real asshat to go steal someone else's 1Up. Where's the brotherhood?!


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

The thing that I think 1up has working for them is their high price. For the most part, the people who have the 1up racks are people who can afford nice stuff and also like nice stuff and take care of nice stuff and respect others nice stuff. These same people I think are also not of the thieving type (not 100% true I know, but a generalization). 

My point is that the type of person who will gladly lay down $300 on a single rack is probably not the same person who would steal others bikes and/or racks. 

Isn't 1up's policy that if the rack is stolen then they will give you a new rack? Doesn't this apply to the add-on as well? I think they probably have the same thought process that I do. 

I would make a generalization that more than 50% of the bikes that are stolen are stolen by people who do not ride. I would assume that people who ride know how they value their bikes and how upset they would be if their ride was stolen. I could be completely wrong about this, and if so let me know. 

So generalizing again for the most part. What you need to worry about is the opportunist thief that see's what they think is a fancy bike and has some bolt cutters in his tool box and he is going to drop the bike off at the nearest pawn shop. 

I dropped money on the wheel locks sold through 1up. Although it was pointed out that technically someone can just release the quick release skewers and lift the frame out while leaving the wheels attached to the bike and cutting the chain. The process would be fairly cumbersome (2 person job I'm thinking), time consuming, and would need a decent amount of knowledge about the rack.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

aedubber said:


> I dunno about you but i dont walk around randomly with an Allen Key in my pocket , and im sure if someone wants to steal something it would be a bike not an " ad on " tray lol . Do you live in the hood or something that your paranoid :skep:


I was thinking about when my car is parked at the trailhead with my additional tray. Someone else with the 1up could just walk up, unbolt my 2nd tray, walk it back to their car and bolt it to their car and leave. Most likely they would have the Allen key with them and there could be motivation(so they can carry a 2nd or even 3rd bike)
Not saying other 1up owners would do this, but because the cost of the rack is high and the additional trays are highly modular and it would be so easy and nearly untraceable unless caught in the act I can see that happening(and hey the rack owner is not a victim cuz 1up will replace the rack if stolen right?)
Befor these racks got popular, it wasn't such an issue but now that they've gotten more popular, I don't really think the special Allen key is an effective anti-theft device any more. 
Other than drilling a hole, I was just wondering out loud whether there was some other way to secure the tray that I haven't thought of.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Someone drove the wrong way down a parking lot and hit my 1up..... I can't even remove the rack right now.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

tooclosetosee said:


> Isn't 1up's policy that if the rack is stolen then they will give you a new rack?


 where did you see that policy?


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

We are so confident that our security system will prevent rack theft that if your Quik-Rack is stolen off your vehicle we will replace it for FREE!

1UPUSA.com :: Quik Rack Aluminum

They do not say anything about the rack add-on about whether it is covered as well. Based on my experience with them and what others have said it seems like they will work with you.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

tonyride1 said:


> where did you see that policy?


Its on 1up's website where they describe the various different features of the rack. There was something there about 1up replacing your rack if it was ever stolen. Not sure if that text is still there though since the last time I went to the website I just ordered the add-on tray.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

They Mention the Add-on in the line before that, it's most likely covered as well.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

tednugent said:


> Someone drove the wrong way down a parking lot and hit my 1up..... I can't even remove the rack right now.


oh, that sucks!

sorry to see that.

any damage to your car?

is the hitch still usable?

joel


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Here's a screenshot of their anti-theft guarantee


Hitch rack is no longer useable AND the security bolt sheared before the expander nut, so it's stuck in the reciever. So, looks like I need to buy a new hitch also


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

This is making me think twice about leaving it on the car. Drivers out here likes to play bumper car.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

if I still had a Yakima Holdup, I would see more damage to the car, as the hitch would have tried to twist itself out of the frame rails.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

tednugent said:


> Hitch rack is no longer useable AND the security bolt sheared before the expander nut, so it's stuck in the reciever. So, looks like I need to buy a new hitch also


I would double check with 1Up to see if reaching the back of the hitch bolt could release it. From the red area in this pic(luv2mtb).
But then again, after a hit like that, I m sure a 1.25" hitch is not going to be straight anymore anyway.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

tednugent said:


> Here's a screenshot of their anti-theft guarantee
> 
> 
> Hitch rack is no longer useable AND the security bolt sheared before the expander nut, so it's stuck in the reciever. So, looks like I need to buy a new hitch also


Whomever hit you should pay! Sucks to see that damage though..


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Can it still be repaired?


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Subyroo651 said:


> I would double check with 1Up to see if reaching the back of the hitch bolt could release it. From the red area in this pic(luv2mtb).
> But then again, after a hit like that, I m sure a 1.25" hitch is not going to be straight anymore anyway.
> View attachment 807938


the back of the receiver is closed off. So no can do.



OscarW said:


> Whomever hit you should pay! Sucks to see that damage though..


The diner has security cameras. I saw the car that did it (and nearly crashed into a few other cars also). But can't make out the license plate.



digifun said:


> Can it still be repaired?


No.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

tednugent said:


> the back of the receiver is closed off. So no can do.


Damn, Yea that's how the original/older versions were. The new ones have that access hole. Sorry to hear about all that


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Subyroo651 said:


> Damn, Yea that's how the original/older versions were. The new ones have that access hole. Sorry to hear about all that


i meant the hitch itself.

Trailer Hitches - Hidden Hitch


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

digifun said:


> This is making me think twice about leaving it on the car. Drivers out here likes to play bumper car.


This is why I always take it off and put it in the trunk when I'm not using it.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

quick disassembly:

the allen key to hold the tray???? I didn't have a mm or standard that fit.

so.... the pivot: 19mm to undo a nut. Then used a old large allen wrench and hammer to extract the threaded rod.

Slide the tray out.

4 bolts on the sides are 14mm.


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## idahoakl (Jun 17, 2013)

Does anyone have a picture of a powder coated silver tray that they can post? I'm curious the difference between the silver anodizing and powder coat.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

idahoakl said:


> Does anyone have a picture of a powder coated silver tray that they can post? I'm curious the difference between the silver anodizing and powder coat.


See post #1616 a few pages back.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## idahoakl (Jun 17, 2013)

albertdc said:


> See post #1616 a few pages back.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks. I saw that post but didn't look close enough.

Given the fact that the trays are now powder coated which makes the trays different from the rest of the rack I wonder what black trays on a silver rack would look like. Or would it look to much like a Thule rack. Thoughts anyone?


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

As having owned both racks, It would look gross.


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## idahoakl (Jun 17, 2013)

One more dumb question. Has anyone had experience with a power tailgate with this rack? I have a Yakima swingdaddy right now and I have a piece of foam on the mast to stop the tailgate from hitting the mast if it accidentally gets opened. I'm not sure if something similar is possible with the 1up.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

I don't think its likely, since you'll have the bike pedal and handle bars contact before the rack would. With this rack, the first point of contact for the lift gate would be different every time.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

idahoakl said:


> One more dumb question. Has anyone had experience with a power tailgate with this rack? I have a Yakima swingdaddy right now and I have a piece of foam on the mast to stop the tailgate from hitting the mast if it accidentally gets opened. I'm not sure if something similar is possible with the 1up.


Are you talking about when the bike is on the rack, or when the bike is not on it and the rack is folded up. I actually assume you are talking about the latter. When this rack is folded up, with a double tray, it extends up much less than a dual-tray Yak rack. I got lucky that with my Audi Q7, when I put the rack in to the hitch 1/8" further than the recommended minimum (so MORE than the minimum by 1/8"), I can still open the rear hatch even with the rack folded up vertically. So, depending on your vehicle, you may not have to worry about it at all. 
If it does hit, you would be hitting against the folded arms/bike tray region, so I assume you could wrap some foam around those as you are closing them to then hold the foam in place and provide padding in case you forget.
What car are you driving?


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## idahoakl (Jun 17, 2013)

albertdc said:


> Are you talking about when the bike is on the rack, or when the bike is not on it and the rack is folded up. I actually assume you are talking about the latter. When this rack is folded up, with a double tray, it extends up much less than a dual-tray Yak rack. I got lucky that with my Audi Q7, when I put the rack in to the hitch 1/8" further than the recommended minimum (so MORE than the minimum by 1/8"), I can still open the rear hatch even with the rack folded up vertically. So, depending on your vehicle, you may not have to worry about it at all.
> If it does hit, you would be hitting against the folded arms/bike tray region, so I assume you could wrap some foam around those as you are closing them to then hold the foam in place and provide padding in case you forget.
> What car are you driving?


I have a BMW X3. The hitch I have on it sticks out behind the back of the bumper probably 6 inches, so even on my Yak rack the tailgate hits the mast pretty high up. From what you're saying it sounds like the tailgate would clear a 1up rack when it is folded up but with bikes on it probably won't. Just ordered a double tray this morning so I guess I'll be measuring and figuring out when it gets here.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

idahoakl said:


> I have a BMW X3. The hitch I have on it sticks out behind the back of the bumper probably 6 inches, so even on my Yak rack the tailgate hits the mast pretty high up. From what you're saying it sounds like the tailgate would clear a 1up rack when it is folded up but with bikes on it probably won't. Just ordered a double tray this morning so I guess I'll be measuring and figuring out when it gets here.


See my post #1575. I measured and marked the minimum insertion (dashed line in my pic). I tested the hatch and found it could open. I then inserted the rack in the hitch further until I found the point of contact. I marked that with the solid line. That way, as long as I am in between the two, I know I am good to go. 
You won't be able to open your hatch with the bikes on, of course, unless you tilt the rack down away from the car. It is designed to do that. It works well with 1 mountain bike on there, but with 2 bikes on it I find it very awkward to then pull it back up to the normal position. Anyway, I think you are less likely to accidentally open the hatch when the bikes are on the rack and am stoked that the hatch opens unobstructed with the rack in place and folded since that would be an easy mistake to make!
Good luck. Report back.


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

idahoakl said:


> One more dumb question. Has anyone had experience with a power tailgate with this rack? I have a Yakima swingdaddy right now and I have a piece of foam on the mast to stop the tailgate from hitting the mast if it accidentally gets opened. I'm not sure if something similar is possible with the 1up.


tilt down the 1up and open the power tailgate. No issues. My Passat wagon has a power tailgate.

On my Yakima holdup, I accidentally did open the tailgate. The bar ends on the bars, scratched up the paint on the tailgate a bit.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

My 1UP got a new ride.

The car not the bike.

My last SUV was silver, now I am wondering if I should have gotten a black rack?


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

Bailey44 said:


> My 1UP got a new ride.
> 
> The car not the bike.
> 
> My last SUV was silver, now I am wondering if I should have gotten a black rack?


Still looks good as is, Black would look better but then scratches become a new concern. I broke even selling mine, I bet you could get close as well.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Subyroo651 said:


> Still looks good as is, Black would look better but then scratches become a new concern. I broke even selling mine, I bet you could get close as well.


Were you unhappy with it? Did you sell it locally?


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

Bailey44 said:


> Were you unhappy with it? Did you sell it locally?


No I was still very pleased with it after almost 4years. I just decided I really wanted the black version, especially so with a new car that's a dark color. I looked into anodizing it black and the cost savings wasn't enough to be worth it so I said screw it, I sold it locally on a Bike forum and bought a brand new black one with all the newest revisions. It sold within 18hrs of me posting it.

1UP has been great too, over the years they've gotten a lot busier and their organization reflects that at times. But any problems or issues, they're there and will make it right.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That OCD thing is really tough sometimes.

J.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

I have a white Subaru Outback and the silver 1Up blends in better but taste is subjective. Black is very nice too but gets very hot down here...OCD can be tough I guess... :lol:


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

I have to say, seeing scratches accumulate on the black rack will most likely bug me. But black still looks so good and in person, it looks much better, much more like its worth its price.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

i ordered a black anodized 1up single tray earlier this year.

i emailed and asked if they had any add-on trays in anodized black and the reply was that did did NOT.

i wonder what the black power coated one will look like next to the anodized one????

anyone have that combo?

joel


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

Just wanted to chime in and comment that the powder coating on my silver rack is garbage. It started peeling on places where parts rub together the first day of using it. Also one of the trays is much harder to fold because the paint is coming off and getting trapped underneath. I haven't had a chance to contact them yet, but I really was disappointed when it showed up painted and not anodized. 

Might as well mention that they weren't that pleasing to speak(email) with when I mentioned to them that their website was a little misleading. The "Free Shipping!" notice on the font page doesn't make it clear that you have to spend $500 until you checkout (or read the text on the product page that doesn't stand out). To make it worse a rack and add-on add up to $498 so that doesn't make it. Their response: "It's still a good deal". I still ordered based on the reviews here but wish it had gone a little smoother.

Anyways hopefully they are better over the phone. I'll post an update once I give them a call.


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## cornice6 (Aug 23, 2007)

Picked up a slightly used one for a good deal today. Thanks for the hook-up!


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

mandiola said:


> Just wanted to chime in and comment that the powder coating on my silver rack is garbage. It started peeling on places where parts rub together the first day of using it. Also one of the trays is much harder to fold because the paint is coming off and getting trapped underneath. I haven't had a chance to contact them yet, but I really was disappointed when it showed up painted and not anodized.
> 
> Might as well mention that they weren't that pleasing to speak(email) with when I mentioned to them that their website was a little misleading. The "Free Shipping!" notice on the font page doesn't make it clear that you have to spend $500 until you checkout (or read the text on the product page that doesn't stand out). To make it worse a rack and add-on add up to $498 so that doesn't make it. Their response: "It's still a good deal". I still ordered based on the reviews here but wish it had gone a little smoother.
> 
> Anyways hopefully they are better over the phone. I'll post an update once I give them a call.


man, that is unfortunate!!!

i may have to look for a used tray.

i want an add-on in anodized black.

i hope they make this right for you!!!

joel


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

JAvendan said:


> man, that is unfortunate!!!
> 
> i may have to look for a used tray.
> 
> ...


I don't know if they owe anything to him but I agree that it is too bad. Makes me glad I got mine back when they were anodized and didn't have that serrated locking bar as well as free shipping. I was afraid that as they became more popular that they would lose the things that made them great. I don't know that they have, but it is getting closer than I'd like.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

I'm sure they're reading these posts. As long as customer support doesn't change, I could careless how mine looks. But if it starts breaking prematurely, then I'd be very upset. Some of you people here are making me laugh. Do you use your rack to pose or to carry bikes?


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

digifun said:


> I'm sure they're reading these posts. As long as customer support doesn't change, I could careless how mine looks. But if it starts breaking prematurely, then I'd be very upset. Some of you people here are making me laugh. Do you use your rack to pose or to carry bikes?


I can sort of see your point when some of us (including me) were complaining of the powder coat finish not matching the anodized finish. In reality, that's not a big deal.. 
BUT, if the powder coat finish is coming off after just a few months, THAT is not acceptable considering the cost of the product. That also looks bad/cheap for the company and will turn off future buyers. I would rather have a slightly uneven anodized finish (which was the reason given for abandoning that process) than peeling powdercoat.

That said, I believe that they will stand by the product and make changes as necessary to get the powder coat working better.
I do wish, however, that I had known the change was coming so I would have bought an add-on before the change! Now I'll wait a while and see if they improve the process..

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

albertdc said:


> BUT, if the powder coat finish is coming off after just a few months, THAT is not acceptable considering the cost of the product.
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


e x a c t l y

joel


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> I don't know if they owe anything to him but I agree that it is too bad. *Makes me glad I got mine back when they were anodized and didn't have that serrated locking bar as well as free shipping.* I was afraid that as they became more popular that they would lose the things that made them great. I don't know that they have, but it is getting closer than I'd like.


Likewise. If I was in the market today for a rack and stumbled upon these new findings and reviews, I would not be as eager on dropping half a thousand on a rack like I did a couple years ago, where reviews and the product was stellar, best in the market. Spent quite a bit of time researching racks and couldn't find one bad thing about 1UP. Not that the product has changed much since then _BUT _why change a good thing?



digifun said:


> I could careless how mine looks.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I mainly pose with my rack and my bike but it's my stuff so I do as I please...


digifun said:


> I'm sure they're reading these posts. As long as customer support doesn't change, I could careless how mine looks. But if it starts breaking prematurely, then I'd be very upset. Some of you people here are making me laugh. Do you use your rack to pose or to carry bikes?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

[/QUOTE] That's one of my pet peeves, too.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> I mainly pose with my rack and my bike but it's my stuff so I do as I please...


Are you admitting you're a poser?


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

A lot of people think I am as I have a nice car that is always spotless, a nice bike that is always spotless and I prefer to ride alone so people assume that I either don't ride or that I am slow. If my buddies hound me enough I will go with them but most find out that they can't keep up with me. Hey, I just like nice, clean things and prefer to ride solo...


tonyride1 said:


> Are you admitting you're a poser?


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## bikerguy1984 (Jun 22, 2013)

Kuat's Trail Doc Repair Stand ...? Useful or not ?


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

bikerguy1984 said:


> Kuat's Trail Doc Repair Stand ...? Useful or not ?


Seriously? We have thread topics so that it isn't a free for all.

Post somewhere relevant...


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## bikerguy1984 (Jun 22, 2013)

Why not answer the question ?

Simple question ...

Who uses the Kuat Trail Doc? Was it useful to you?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I think that question would be better asked in the Kuat's thread. I actually considered it before I got my 1UP USA and decided I really have no use for a repair stand attached to my bike rack.


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## bitflogger (Jan 12, 2004)

bikerguy1984 said:


> Kuat's Trail Doc Repair Stand ...? Useful or not ?





bikerguy1984 said:


> Why not answer the question ?
> 
> Simple question ...
> 
> Who uses the Kuat Trail Doc? Was it useful to you?


My friend who had it didn't find it as useful as selling it buying a 1 Up.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So a buddy of mine purchased the 1Up recently, after seeing the awesome that is mine. His is the version with powder coat and serrated ratchet bar, so I got a chance to compare the versions. Serrated bar is fine - I could go either way. Powdercoating vs. anodized, unsure. I think I prefer my anodized (silver) but it's really not that big a deal. If I had to buy an add-on with the powder coating finish, so be it. Wouldn't match exactly but it's really not that far off. I can't speak about the black version, maybe that's a more significant difference? I dunno, it's a bike rack after all. You put your bike on it, and it does that job really really well.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

bad andy said:


> So a buddy of mine purchased the 1Up recently, after seeing the awesome that is mine. His is the version with powder coat and serrated ratchet bar, so I got a chance to compare the versions. Serrated bar is fine - I could go either way. Powdercoating vs. anodized, unsure. I think I prefer my anodized (silver) but it's really not that big a deal. If I had to buy an add-on with the powder coating finish, so be it. Wouldn't match exactly but it's really not that far off. I can't speak about the black version, maybe that's a more significant difference? I dunno, it's a bike rack after all. You put your bike on it, and it does that job really really well.


Good to hear that even with a side-by-side comparison, the powder coat finish is at least close to the anodized...that said, a poster a few back already had his peeling. If your friend is a high-frequency user of the rack, please update us in a few months as to how the powder coat holds up.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

Haven't called 1up yet as it's at the bottom of my priority list but thought it'd upload some pics. Saying the powder coat was garbage was a little overboard but honestly I think it was a bad move. Also just to note, mine came power coated but does not have the serrated arms so I guess I got one in the middle of the changes.

I don't pose with my rack, but I also don't want it to look like it build and painted it myself when I paid $500 for it.

Pics are here for anyone that wants to see them. No its not horrible, but my guess is that in a couple months its going to look a lot worse: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cgl0eehf26jf6ol/N_px96Hi0w


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

mandiola said:


> Haven't called 1up yet as it's at the bottom of my priority list but thought it'd upload some pics. Saying the powder coat was garbage was a little overboard but honestly I think it was a bad move. Also just to note, mine came power coated but does not have the serrated arms so I guess I got one in the middle of the changes.
> 
> I don't pose with my rack, but I also don't want it to look like it build and painted it myself when I paid $500 for it.
> 
> Pics are here for anyone that wants to see them. No its not horrible, but my guess is that in a couple months its going to look a lot worse: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cgl0eehf26jf6ol/N_px96Hi0w


Yeah, doesn't look too bad now but is certainly concerning. I would send those pictures to 1Up - they've been very good about taking care of people when there are quality issues. Sounds like you probably got one of the first powder coated ones and they may not have gotten it quite right. Here's hoping they've figured things out by now.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

mandiola said:


> Haven't called 1up yet as it's at the bottom of my priority list but thought it'd upload some pics. Saying the powder coat was garbage was a little overboard but honestly I think it was a bad move. Also just to note, mine came power coated but does not have the serrated arms so I guess I got one in the middle of the changes.
> 
> I don't pose with my rack, but I also don't want it to look like it build and painted it myself when I paid $500 for it.
> 
> Pics are here for anyone that wants to see them. No its not horrible, but my guess is that in a couple months its going to look a lot worse: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cgl0eehf26jf6ol/N_px96Hi0w


After looking at those pictures, I wouldn't accept that rack at all. Definitely contact 1Up.


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## ngs888 (Jun 30, 2013)

I just returned a thule helium 971 xt in hopes of ordering the 1up usa. The REI return was generous for me to try the rack (through all weather conditions). In the end, the tray option is easier for my wife to load her bike. The thule arm style is quite difficult.

But with the 1 up version I want to make sure it will be easy to use and last a long time (given the price). With the negative reports of the powder coating, I'm second guessing whether I should make this purchase. Other than the 1 month of summer weather , its usually raining here. I'll wait till I see more posts here to hear about their experiences.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

ngs888 said:


> I just returned a thule helium 971 xt in hopes of ordering the 1up usa. The REI return was generous for me to try the rack (through all weather conditions). In the end, the tray option is easier for my wife to load her bike. The thule arm style is quite difficult.
> 
> But with the 1 up version I want to make sure it will be easy to use and last a long time (given the price). With the negative reports of the powder coating, I'm second guessing whether I should make this purchase. Other than the 1 month of summer weather , its usually raining here. I'll wait till I see more posts here to hear about their experiences.


How many more post do you need to see? There's 70 pages and counting. Do yourself a favor and get one. You'll thank us later. Yes it's very easy to use and should last a long time. Just wait till you see one in person. I have the newer version and the paint is holding up well with frequent use. But that wasn't my deciding factor.


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## Hogknuckles (Jun 20, 2013)

Hello all, I am about to order and I think I am going to need the hitch extender as well. My question is how does the extender attach to the hitch. Does it use a pin? If anyone is using the extender, how much, if any slop is introduced? Thanks much.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Hogknuckles said:


> Hello all, I am about to order and I think I am going to need the hitch extender as well. My question is how does the extender attach to the hitch. Does it use a pin? If anyone is using the extender, how much, if any slop is introduced? Thanks much.


I have spare tire and didn't need an extender.


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## Hogknuckles (Jun 20, 2013)

My spare sticks out about 5" past my receiver. There is also a dish like cover with a back up camera, so there will be no room for the pedal to go inside the rim area. If it helps it is a 2010 FJ Trail Teams, factory hitch, and 265 BF Goodrich All-terrains


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Black anodized one and two rack system with serrated slider bar is photographed in detail here:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151699109083536.1073741842.196811798535&type=1


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

francois said:


> Black anodized one and two rack system with serrated slider bar is photographed in detail here:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151699109083536.1073741842.196811798535&type=1


Ganda kotse mo Francis.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Hogknuckles said:


> My spare sticks out about 5" past my receiver. There is also a dish like cover with a back up camera, so there will be no room for the pedal to go inside the rim area. If it helps it is a 2010 FJ Trail Teams, factory hitch, and 265 BF Goodrich All-terrains


There will be slop between the hitch and the extender. You'll have to find a solution for that on your own. The extender goes into the hitch as any other accessory - you'll need to install a pin (locking or otherwise). The 1up won't have any slop whether you're installing it into the hitch directly or the extender.

Why don't you just get the extender and rack together and try it out for yourself?


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

I've used my new add-on (painted w/ serrated locking bar) for a number of trips now. No issues at all with the paint. And I actually like the serrations better than the flat bar. It gives a very positive engagement that tells you it's gonna hold by more than friction.

To be clear, my original rack is still working great, but I'm getting convinced there's nothing to fret about w/ the paint and serrated bars (barring quality control issues of course).


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## Hogknuckles (Jun 20, 2013)

racerwad said:


> There will be slop between the hitch and the extender. You'll have to find a solution for that on your own. The extender goes into the hitch as any other accessory - you'll need to install a pin (locking or otherwise). The 1up won't have any slop whether you're installing it into the hitch directly or the extender.
> 
> Why don't you just get the extender and rack together and try it out for yourself?


Thanks,

I am going to order it. I was just curious about the extender they sold. I have an extender in my garage, but wanted to know if theirs was any different. I looked on the web site and it said it attaches the same way the bike rack did, but the picture showed a hole for a pin. Thanks again, if I need to extend it out I will just use the one I have and a strap to take out the wobble.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

So this weekend I realized why I was having trouble sliding one of the arms. When I pulled up on the lock lever, I was putting my thumb on top of the little arm that connects it to the big arm and pushing it down so that even with the lever up it was catching. Once I stopped doing that it slid exactly how it's supposed to.


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## litany (Nov 25, 2009)

A few days ago I got the 1up heavy duty and two add ons all in black. The rack is nice, it works very well. The finish isn't perfect, there was some chipping on the powder coat out of the box but overall it looks pretty good. 

My previous rack was a sportrack 4ez which I got for $135 shipped new on amazon with a one year prime membership. Deal of the century that was. While my old rack worked fine the 1up's features, especially that it folds up are very nice. It's also much faster to load up the bikes with this. Because of the way it works you can adjust the bikes left and right effortlessly. Additionally as the rack gets higher and higher the extra height of the 3rd bike over the 1st is enough that the bars brakes and shifters of the 3rd clear the 1st with room to spare.

The sawtooth thing is fine, they are fine teeth and it works, doesn't really bother me that they switched. It's not saw all the way, at the very ends its smooth, so I know what it used to be like, it's just noisier now. 

I'll post some pictures when I get home. The rack looks really good in black.


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> I've used my new add-on (painted w/ serrated locking bar) for a number of trips now. No issues at all with the paint.


Uh, yeah, ummmm.....

So today I was folding up my new painted add-on, and I noticed that when the blue locking lever was twisted it took off a nice sliver of paint on the tray:









Not too concerned about the appearance, but I'm wondering what the durability implications might be. Anything to be worried about with uncoated aluminum being exposed to the elements over the long term?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

No worries about uncoated aluminum. They don't rust.


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

tonyride1 said:


> No worries about uncoated aluminum. They don't rust.


So why paint or anodize in the first place?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> So why paint or anodize in the first place?


Looks. Raw aluminum isn't all that pretty.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> Uh, yeah, ummmm.....
> 
> So today I was folding up my new painted add-on, and I noticed that when the blue locking lever was twisted it took off a nice sliver of paint on the tray:
> 
> ...


I got one of the first 2 inch hitch models, I think it was 2 summers ago and mine still looks fine, but dirty as I never washed it. After a year or two you won't even think of it.










Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> Looks. Raw aluminum isn't all that pretty.


sure aluminum can be pretty.

ALso, aluminum does "rust". Rust is an oxidation process, and commonly known as it pertains to iron alloys, as it is commonly iron oxide.

At least on aluminum, it forms aluminum oxide, which benefits as it forms a protective layer.

Anodizing aluminum will increase the thickness of the aluminum oxide, and through its process, allows the opportunity to dye the coating to other colors, such as red, blue, etc

I wouldn't be surprised if the blue & red levers are anodized.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Installed mine today... Black powder coat with the serrations... Worked great... Didn't cut my hand or anything...


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

Again, I'm not concerned about the appearance. 

I guess I just don't understand why they paint (or anodize for that matter) the silver racks at all. If there are no corrosion risks just leave it raw....


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> Again, I'm not concerned about the appearance.
> 
> I guess I just don't understand why they paint (or anodize for that matter) the silver racks at all. If there are no corrosion risks just leave it raw....


It's for those whom are willing to pay more for appearances sake


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

tednugent said:


> sure aluminum can be pretty.
> 
> ALso, aluminum does "rust". Rust is an oxidation process, and commonly known as it pertains to iron alloys, as it is commonly iron oxide.
> 
> ...


I think you're confusing rust with corrosion which happens due to salt and contanimants leaching into the surface of the aluminum. Anodizing is a way of putting an artificial oxide coating on the aluminum to protect it.. and to make it look better as it the anodizing can be colored. Rust? No.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> Again, I'm not concerned about the appearance.
> 
> I guess I just don't understand why they paint (or anodize for that matter) the silver racks at all. If there are no corrosion risks just leave it raw....


Just because you're not concerned about appearance doesn't mean that no one else does. Customers are different and whoever can satisfy the most needs wins.

In general, 1upusa attracts the customer that is looking for a really good engineering solution and a very clean look.

fc


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

francois said:


> Just because you're not concerned about appearance doesn't mean that no one else does. Customers are different and whoever can satisfy the most needs wins.
> 
> In general, 1upusa attracts the customer that is looking for a really good engineering solution and a very clean look.
> 
> fc


Yep some see beauty in the function while others look at the physical. Occasionally one can get both in the same package. I'm frugal and lazy so I won't pay extra for something that requires more work out of me, cleaning, without improving function. Besides anodized racks weren't available when I got mine. FWIW, after owning this thing I wouldn't consider any other brand.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## ChrisInYpsi (Apr 15, 2012)

francois said:


> Just because you're not concerned about appearance doesn't mean that no one else does. Customers are different and whoever can satisfy the most needs wins.
> 
> In general, 1upusa attracts the customer that is looking for a really good engineering solution and a very clean look.
> 
> fc


Thanks for the lecture and the enlightening lesson in free market economics.

I'm just trying to understand the engineering issues here. As long as my new painted add on wont "break" I'm ok with a few paint scratches (esp since its silver paint covering silver aluminum). But of course that doesn't mean anyone else has to feel the same way. If I had a black rack even I'd feel differently.

Peace.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

i have an anodized black rack and i was really bummed that they don't offer that finish anymore.

i am leaning heavily on getting a painted black add-on.

i truely like the functionality but want it to be tough cosmetically, too.

oh well, i guess time will tell.

if i can get my wife to ride with me locally... then the rack will have done its work 

joel


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

Question on BLACK Anodized: In talking to 1up, they don't put any UV inhibitors in their BLACK. I have some old Yakima trays before they added UV inhibitors and they faded. Of course Yakima fixed that early on. 

So, now that the Tray is powder coated (not likely to fade), but the other black Ano stuff could fade - is anyone seeing evidence of the black Ano fading yet? What is the oldest black one out there? Thanks! jdkobe.


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

how is the black holding up? any noticable fading of ano?


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

Mine's fine, but it's only been a year.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Well, I backed mine into a trailer today. Luckily, my bike suffered no damage, and just a two inch gouge in my car's paint job.

The rack, however, took the brunt of the collision. The aluminum cracked, and the blue safety lever popped out at the rivet. 

I just ordered a new rack.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

Damn, sorry to hear!

Are you able to reuse the tray at all?

Pics?... Just asking 

Joel


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

so.... what do you like better on the Subaru - the Holdup you reviewed or the 1up?


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## laury (Oct 15, 2010)

I am looking into hitch racks for carrying a combo of a 29er, 24" kids mtb, 20" kids mtb, road bikes.

I do NOT want to monkey with the bikes (e.g. - loosening handle bars and turning, removing seats.) Would this likely be necessary with the 1up? It's a big investment so I want to understand the details and how it will work for us.

Please let me know if you have experience with this type of combo and what you have found. 

Thanks!


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

jdkobe said:


> so.... what do you like better on the Subaru - the Holdup you reviewed or the 1up?


i, personally, have only use my single tray 1up on my '12 outback using the factory subaru 1.25" hitch.

we have a much older yakima non-tray bike carrier using a 2" hitch receiver for use on the wife's 2k 4runner.

here are some more recent pics of the 1up on the outback...





and getting a quick oil change and tire rotation after riding with my friend 



loading and unloading is sooooooo easy and fast!!!

joel


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

laury said:


> I am looking into hitch racks for carrying a combo of a 29er, 24" kids mtb, 20" kids mtb, road bikes.
> 
> I do NOT want to monkey with the bikes (e.g. - loosening handle bars and turning, removing seats.) Would this likely be necessary with the 1up? It's a big investment so I want to understand the details and how it will work for us.
> 
> ...


Absolutely not the case with the 1up, its the best rack period and for good reason. You will want to adjust the wheel spindles on the arms to accommodate the different wheel sizes but it is designed for that and is a 1 time thing. Also, the rack has an upward rake so the trays go up in height further from the vehicle. Which helps offset the bars/pedals etc

I can't see a single reason why you wouldn't be happy.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

laury said:


> I am looking into hitch racks for carrying a combo of a 29er, 24" kids mtb, 20" kids mtb, road bikes.
> 
> I do NOT want to monkey with the bikes (e.g. - loosening handle bars and turning, removing seats.) Would this likely be necessary with the 1up? It's a big investment so I want to understand the details and how it will work for us.
> 
> ...


i only have a single tray 1up and i hope others will reply to you!

i can offer these pics, though 

you can adjust for the tire size you need to secure by moving the top brace thingy lower for shorter wheels...



here's a better pic, i hope...



29" wheels will use the same height as the 26" size but will be at more of an angle.

[edit] and to add... i think you would simply need to move the bikes left to right and then secure the wheels so they don't hit each others handle bars, and/or pedals.

joel


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I have had the 1up USA rack + 1addition for 1 year. Mine is the silver anodized version.
The rack is perfect, very easy to operate, very stable. I have just come back from trip to San Francisco - Orange county, driving at 85miles/h. No problem.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

laury said:


> I am looking into hitch racks for carrying a combo of a 29er, 24" kids mtb, 20" kids mtb, road bikes.
> 
> I do NOT want to monkey with the bikes (e.g. - loosening handle bars and turning, removing seats.) Would this likely be necessary with the 1up? It's a big investment so I want to understand the details and how it will work for us.
> 
> ...


As already answered, you will not have to adjust things on the bikes. What is great about this rack is that it naturally offsets each tray vertically, but in addition you can offset the bikes from side to side quite a bit as necessary.

The downside to the rack is that going from a 29er to 24" to a 20" bike does take an adjustment to the rack itself that requires a wrench. As JAvendan pointed out above, you have to remove the bolt that holds the brace which pushes on the tire and move it lower for the smaller wheel sizes. The top position is for 29er and 26" wheels. You probably can find a position 2-3 holes down to fit both 24" and 20" bikes. I bought a 1/2" combination ratcheting wrench (such as: Craftsman 1/2 in. Ratcheting Combination Wrench - Tools - Wrenches - All Open Stock Wrenches) so the process takes all of 2 minutes to do since I often change back in forth between my brother's 29er and my son's 20" bike on my second tray. Other racks with telescoping front wheel holders simplify that process, but the 1UpRack is so much easier to take on and off and holds so much more nicely in general that it is worth it. 
For example, my previous bike was a pain to carry along with my brother's bike on his Yakima hitch rack. Luckily we have dropper seat posts, because we would have to drop our seats on his Yakima rack to keep the handlebars from hitting the seats. On the 1UpRack, we didn't have to drop the seats since the second bike is held higher and we could offset them more side to side.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

The original version of the rack actually used wing nuts on the back of the bolts so that you didn't need a wrench. They switched for some reason.


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## 1362 (Sep 12, 2010)

ChrisInYpsi said:


> Again, I'm not concerned about the appearance.
> 
> I guess I just don't understand why they paint (or anodize for that matter) the silver racks at all. If there are no corrosion risks just leave it raw....


Have you ever worked with straight raw aluminum? I was a machinist worked with a lot of it, it is filthy and dirty and has a cold sweat feel. Just yuck. So, just like you paint stuff, it is a nice cosmetic finish.
My rack is couple years old also and I have no complaints and love how quick the entire thing is including adding the second rack as needed with a couple bolts to tighten.


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## 1362 (Sep 12, 2010)

Mine is couple years old and has special allen wrench for putting rack on car. It serves as a nice anti theft device.



Subyroo651 said:


> The original version of the rack actually used wing nuts on the back of the bolts so that you didn't need a wrench. They switched for some reason.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

1362 said:


> Mine is couple years old and has special allen wrench for putting rack on car. It serves as a nice anti theft device.


I got mine at the beginning of the year.

I appreciate that security nut / bolt thing... I don't want it wandering off!!!

I even wrap a cable lock around it and through the hitch 

Joel


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Subyroo651 said:


> The original version of the rack actually used wing nuts on the back of the bolts so that you didn't need a wrench. They switched for some reason.


And I in fact went to the hardware store with the intent of buying wing bolts to use instead of the nuts. I didn't, however, since the nuts they have on there are lock nuts. I was worried about regular wing nuts vibrating loose, and I figured that a lock nut version of the wing nuts would just be a huge pain and slow to completely unscrew and replace. The ratcheting wrench actually is super quick and easy so I went that route instead. :thumbup:

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## laury (Oct 15, 2010)

Thank you albertdc and everyone who replied. I haven't spent much time on the forum and just realized how long this chain was. Apologies for not reading more carefully. Still I appreciate the answers and discussions as the rack has been tweaked over time. It's nice to be up-to-date with those changes.

1Up is certainly a beautifully engineered solution to the familiar hassle of hauling bikes. Now, if they could only make a cover so my bike doesn't get pelted with rain on long drives.

If anyone from 1Up is reading, I would be happy to test such a product  and wouldn't even ask for a commission for the idea.


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

laury said:


> Thank you albertdc and everyone who replied. I haven't spent much time on the forum and just realized how long this chain was. Apologies for not reading more carefully. Still I appreciate the answers and discussions as the rack has been tweaked over time. It's nice to be up-to-date with those changes.
> 
> 1Up is certainly a beautifully engineered solution to the familiar hassle of hauling bikes. Now, if they could only make a cover so my bike doesn't get pelted with rain on long drives.
> 
> If anyone from 1Up is reading, I would be happy to test such a product  and wouldn't even ask for a commission for the idea.


I've been using this one which fits and works really well. It has a buckle at the bottom and an elastic drawstring as well. Of course this all will obscure your tail lights/Turn signals so better wire up some external ones.

BIKE COVER


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Subyroo651 said:


> I've been using this one which fits and works really well. It has a buckle at the bottom and an elastic drawstring as well. Of course this all will obscure your tail lights/Turn signals so better wire up some external ones.
> 
> BIKE COVER


I realize the hitch rack is tucked in behind the car and in the slipstream, but I still would have expected some good wind back there. You have actually had that cover on the bike while moving, or do you use it as a storage cover? If you have had it on while moving, do is look like it gets buffeted around a lot? Does the entire bike move more on the rack with the cover over it? The amount of the slipstream back there probably depends a lot on what car it is mounted behind - what were you driving at the time?


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## Subyroo651 (Jun 22, 2010)

albertdc said:


> I realize the hitch rack is tucked in behind the car and in the slipstream, but I still would have expected some good wind back there. You have actually had that cover on the bike while moving, or do you use it as a storage cover? If you have had it on while moving, do is look like it gets buffeted around a lot? Does the entire bike move more on the rack with the cover over it? The amount of the slipstream back there probably depends a lot on what car it is mounted behind - what were you driving at the time?


At the time it was on a Subaru Legacy which put the bikes right smack in the wind off the trunk. I haven't used it on the highway but it worked great on surface streets. Really, any fabric is going to flap and catch the wind. It does have a buckle that will keep it from taking off as well as the drawstring to keep it nice n tight. The additional drag wont be enough to cause anything to happen with the rack. I have an Outback now which should shield the bikes from more wind and I wouldn't hesitate to use the cover again. I m working on some external LED Tail/Turn lights etc to use as well.


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## Hiebs915 (Sep 14, 2012)

Does anyone have any trouble getting the bike rack off of your car? Mine seems to stick in the hitch until I hit the hitch area with a hammer to knock it loose.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

Hiebs915 said:


> Does anyone have any trouble getting the bike rack off of your car? Mine seems to stick in the hitch until I hit the hitch area with a hammer to knock it loose.


i don't believe i have had any problems removing the rack from my hitch.

is the screw that moves that ball thing undone???

if so, maybe try tightening and loosening it and watching the travel and see if it defective.

joel


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

No problems so far.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

No issues either after 2 1/2 years use..


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

Hiebs915 said:


> Does anyone have any trouble getting the bike rack off of your car? Mine seems to stick in the hitch until I hit the hitch area with a hammer to knock it loose.


Is your hitch receiver area nice and clean? (before you inserted the rack)


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## Hiebs915 (Sep 14, 2012)

tednugent said:


> Is your hitch receiver area nice and clean? (before you inserted the rack)


I believe so. The ball inside the rack moves easily, I don't think its defective but I'll take a closer look.

I could be because I made the hitch receiver out of 2" square cut steel. Looks exactly like a normal hitch receiver though.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

I just bought another one, as my old one got damaged. 

The new one has the serrated arms, but I noticed there are no rubber protectors to prevent the arms from rubbing against the tray, as my old one has. Is this normal for the newer models?

Thanks


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## litany (Nov 25, 2009)

My rack that i got about a month ago doesn't have the rubber bits so I put some helicopter tape on it.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

litany said:


> My rack that i got about a month ago doesn't have the rubber bits so I put some helicopter tape on it.


May I request a picture of this please... I received mine a few weeks ago and didn't notice any rubbing...


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

What is helicopter tape? I assume it's not just regular tape with little helicopters on it. If so then I have to get some for my son.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

tonyride1 said:


> What is helicopter tape? I assume it's not just regular tape with little helicopters on it. If so then I have to get some for my son.


3M aerospace and aircraft product catalog - 3M US:Aerospace OEM: Erosion Protection


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## ajavt (Nov 22, 2012)

I did a quick search to see what people are doing to store their 1up racks when they aren't on the car. I replaced an old Thule hanging rack which hung well on the wall from a couple of rubberized hooks, but my new rack doesn't hang well from there. Any suggestions on what people have done that worked well to hang the main rack as well as the add on sections? I have the boxes in the basement but it would be easier to hang the rack on the wall next to the car.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

This how I store my add on's.


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

Here are a few pics of the rack I made to store mine. It's just a piece of wood and a few small hooks. The rack hangs from the bits that touch the bicycle tires when in use. I also drilled a few holes in the top edge to store the wrenches (top left side of the rack, only one wrench is in the rack in the pic).


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

Wingspan said:


> Here are a few pics of the rack I made to store mine. It's just a piece of wood and a few small hooks. The rack hangs from the bits that touch the bicycle tires when in use. I also drilled a few holes in the top edge to store the wrenches (top left side of the rack, only one wrench is in the rack in the pic).


very nice.

i think i can do something like that in my very packed garage!

joel

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## ojelijb (Jun 8, 2009)

Hi, 

Just wanted to share, 1UPUSA is awesome, i've had mine for 2+ years and zero problems. 

I also recently lost the lever handle (black nubs) when we moved, I think the movers mishandled it and the screw got loose and the part was lost. So I write a quick email to 1upusa asking them if I could purchase the part. They reply very quickly telling me the have shipped me the parts I requested at no cost (not even shipping!). It arrived very quickly after and I found out they even gave me an extra pair of parts. For me this is excellent customer service for any company in any industry! A++, I will definitely continue buying 1upusa racks and products in the future

Regards,
JB


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ojelijb said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to share, 1UPUSA is awesome, i've had mine for 2+ years and zero problems.
> 
> ...


That's great to hear.


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

Figured I would post an update on the chipping powder coat. After contacting 1UP they sent me 4 new trays with the updated serrated arms. Took about 2.5 weeks after they said they would send them out to arrive. I opened the box and all 4 trays were scratched badly, one of them has a large paint chip on the side of the tray. They look way worse then my current ones.

Really disappointed with 1UP at this point. Their communication is very short and borderline rude. I just emailed them with the pictures and asked if there was any way to receive some anodized trays. There is no way the powder coating that they are doing is going to last. I'll post an update when I hear from them.

Pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dv2v70x8ulwupzq/3ucuGnRHOZ


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

That's a joke. Don't they check prior to shipping?


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

mandiola said:


> Figured I would post an update on the chipping powder coat. After contacting 1UP they sent me 4 new trays with the updated serrated arms. Took about 2.5 weeks after they said they would send them out to arrive. I opened the box and all 4 trays were scratched badly, one of them has a large paint chip on the side of the tray. They look way worse then my current ones.
> 
> Really disappointed with 1UP at this point. Their communication is very short and borderline rude. I just emailed them with the pictures and asked if there was any way to receive some anodized trays. There is no way the powder coating that they are doing is going to last. I'll post an update when I hear from them.
> 
> Pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dv2v70x8ulwupzq/3ucuGnRHOZ


that is terrible!

i hope that gets sorted out.

did you have to return your original trays?

there is a reason i'm asking... i would like to buy one 

joel


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

digifun said:


> That's a joke. Don't they check prior to shipping?


I'm sure they were damaged in shipping. But to me that's even worse.. the product didn't even make it to my door without getting messed up. Hopefully they will just go back to anodizing as there seemed to be no issues with that.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

mandiola said:


> Figured I would post an update on the chipping powder coat. After contacting 1UP they sent me 4 new trays with the updated serrated arms. Took about 2.5 weeks after they said they would send them out to arrive. I opened the box and all 4 trays were scratched badly, one of them has a large paint chip on the side of the tray. They look way worse then my current ones.
> 
> Really disappointed with 1UP at this point. Their communication is very short and borderline rude. I just emailed them with the pictures and asked if there was any way to receive some anodized trays. There is no way the powder coating that they are doing is going to last. I'll post an update when I hear from them.
> 
> Pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dv2v70x8ulwupzq/3ucuGnRHOZ


Wow those parts do look pretty scratched up. Kind of interesting how all four trays were scratched at approximately the same location. Probably happened during shipping due to the way it was packed?

I'm not sure I'm too happy with this change to powder coated finish on the trays either(I have 1 anodized and 1 powder coated tray). 
From 5 feet away though its really hard to notice the difference.

I don't use my 2nd tray(powder coated) that often and so far I haven't noticed any paint flaking off yet. I figured if it got bad enough, one can always strip the paint and get it anodized locally. Its only the 2 rails right? All the other parts looks the same to me(except for the serrated rails).


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Does it appear it was shipping damaged? How's the box look like?
I'm planning to buy two add on but if this doesn't get sorted out? I may have to hold off


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

digifun said:


> Does it appear it was shipping damaged? How's the box look like?
> I'm planning to buy two add on but if this doesn't get sorted out? I may have to hold off


I think they must of just sent him the trays only without all the other parts.
The way the add-on is shipped is just like the hitch rack. Fully assembled and folded up nicely in a box. I think it would be pretty hard to have damage like that if it was shipped as a whole add-on.


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

Yes they shipped just the assembled trays. The packaging was different then how they originally shipped the add-on. The box was banged up but wasn't falling apart or anything. They definitely could have been packed a little better.

As for them asking me to send the original arms back there was zero communication. Like I said before, all of their responses have been extremely short (and to me somewhat rude). I wouldn't send back the original ones anyways at this point as they look much better then the new ones. I have no problem sending the new ones back but they didn't include a shipping label and I'm not about to pay to send them back on my dime.


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

I just received the following email from 1UP:
"I'm very sorry for this happening. I have no idea why we are having such an issue with this. Our we're not have any issues with our paint coming off or chipping easily. We no longer anodize them due to the inconsistent appearance that people previously complained about. I'm going to send a prepaid label for you to return everything for a full refund.

Thanks for trying our product."


What a joke. I don't want to return the product, I like the rack. I just don't want it to look like sh*& in a couple of years. Instead of trying to fix the problem they tell me to return it and "thanks for trying our product."


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Not a good result then... What are you going with now?


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

1up is offering a full refund and prepaid shipping 

Other companies will give you much less.


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## mandiola (Apr 1, 2013)

tednugent said:


> 1up is offering a full refund and prepaid shipping
> 
> Other companies will give you much less.


I didn't ask to return it, all I asked was for the issue to be resolved and to hopefully show that there are some issues with the new process. And while you say that other companies will give less, I can say that may other companies will go way out of their way to help their customers, not get rid of them. I wasn't being a pain in the a$s to them. Just trying to see if something could be done.

After emailing them again they agreed to try sending another set of trays. I wish they could just send me some that are anodized and call it a day, but their response was: "The anodized finish on the trays about broke us this past winter and spring for lead time and re-working parts." so that doesn't seem possible. If they had issues with the anodizing it's reasonable that they look for a solution, but hopefully they can get this process down to be more durable.


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## scribble79 (Jul 17, 2012)

Has anyone added 3 add on's to a single bike unit?


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

Just received my single with 1 add-on today. No issues with the packaging or the paint. The painted trays look fine in my opinion, but I won't be complaining too much about the appearance. Very excited about the purchase, I have wanted one of these for a while. I will say I do like the serrated bars, they make for a very nice and secure sound and feel. Nicest rack on the market, makes my Thule T2 look laughable.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

scribble79 said:


> Has anyone added 3 add on's to a single bike unit?


Yes. I have the older version that has the 1.25" to 2" adaptor. We've driven on 2500 mile drives out to the mountains with it several times with no problems. 4 mountain bikes or 4 road bikes, no issues.

J.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

mandiola said:


> I didn't ask to return it, all I asked was for the issue to be resolved and to hopefully show that there are some issues with the new process. And while you say that other companies will give less, I can say that may other companies will go way out of their way to help their customers, not get rid of them. I wasn't being a pain in the a$s to them. Just trying to see if something could be done.
> 
> After emailing them again they agreed to try sending another set of trays. I wish they could just send me some that are anodized and call it a day, but their response was: "The anodized finish on the trays about broke us this past winter and spring for lead time and re-working parts." so that doesn't seem possible. If they had issues with the anodizing it's reasonable that they look for a solution, but hopefully they can get this process down to be more durable.


It's not a custom one-off company - they have a product that is mass produced. If you don't like it, send it back. If you do like it, keep it. Not a tough choice and seems pretty straightforward to me.

J.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

scribble79 said:


> Has anyone added 3 add on's to a single bike unit?





JohnJ80 said:


> Yes. I have the older version that has the 1.25" to 2" adaptor. We've driven on 2500 mile drives out to the mountains with it several times with no problems. 4 mountain bikes or 4 road bikes, no issues.
> 
> J.


Just FYI, 1Up says NOT to do this. I asked them to make a single rack with a 2"receiver (no adapter) so I could add on 3 trays later. They said the issue isn't just the receiver but the fact that there would then be the weight and torque of 3 trays and bikes hanging off of the 2 bolts responsible for holding the first add-on tray to the initial rack. They are worried about those bolts failing. If those fail, the 3 trays and bikes will fall off and be ruined and risk an accident behind you. That is why there is a 2 add-on limit. I'm sure it can work, but failure is catastrophic.
I guess if you do it, consider adding some safety webbing strapping the first add-on to the rack. Maybe that will minimize the stress on the bolts, and will at least keep the three add-on trays from falling off completely should they fail.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

albertdc said:


> Just FYI, 1Up says NOT to do this. I asked them to make a single rack with a 2"receiver (no adapter) so I could add on 3 trays later. They said the issue isn't just the receiver but the fact that there would then be the weight and torque of 3 trays and bikes hanging off of the 2 bolts responsible for holding the first add-on tray to the initial rack. They are worried about those bolts failing. If those fail, the 3 trays and bikes will fall off and be ruined and risk an accident behind you. That is why there is a 2 add-on limit. I'm sure it can work, but failure is catastrophic.
> I guess if you do it, consider adding some safety webbing strapping the first add-on to the rack. Maybe that will minimize the stress on the bolts, and will at least keep the three add-on trays from falling off completely should they fail.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Mine was bought from 1UpUSA and it was an acceptable and promoted use of the rack. Unless they recall mine, then that is still an acceptable use of the rack and I would expect that they retain any product liability that goes with that.

FWIW, I've (inadvertently) hit a bump at 80mph with 4 mountain bikes on the back that pretty much all but put us airborne and there was absolutely no problem. It's in a 2" receiver.

My version of the rack was designed for 250lbs of bikes. We never even get to half of that.

J.


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## curtisp (Aug 21, 2012)

finally ordered a single 1up rack and 1 add-on!!!


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

I've finally been able to use my 1up and add-on several times recently which I purchased in August of 2012, but didn't finally get a bike until December..(Long story). I was a little nervous since I started using the add-on and I would look in the rear view mirror and see the bikes sway, but I have used it a handful of times on city roads full of pot holes with no issues. I will be testing it on the highway soon and would like to know what have others experienced when using it at Highway speeds with the add-on? I have to email 1up soon because one of the tools sent with the rack was not drilled centered so I only have one usable lock tool. One lock arm is also really hard to open on the add-on. Is there a recommended lube that I could try.

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 4


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

Noob9ers said:


> One lock arm is also really hard to open on the add-on. Is there a recommended lube that I could try.


Loosen the lock-bolt an eighth of a turn and add a little Tri-Lube.


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## Noob9ers (Jun 24, 2012)

Scott In MD said:


> Loosen the lock-bolt an eighth of a turn and add a little Tri-Lube.


Thanks, I'll try that.

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 4


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## xcx85 (Sep 7, 2012)

Hey guys! Im also thinking about getting one soon, anybody here had problems with their exhaust interfering with the rack? I'm afraid it might cause damage to the rack or worse on the bike. I drive a 2009 rav4 and that is the only thing holding me back. Thanks!


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

xcx85 said:


> Hey guys! Im also thinking about getting one soon, anybody here had problems with their exhaust interfering with the rack? I'm afraid it might cause damage to the rack or worse on the bike. I drive a 2009 rav4 and that is the only thing holding me back. Thanks!


stealing tonyride's picture


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## xcx85 (Sep 7, 2012)

tednugent said:


> stealing tonyride's picture


Thanks Ted!


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## xcx85 (Sep 7, 2012)

Btw, if anyone from the SoCal area is selling theirs, hit me up!


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## Yama Arashi (Jul 22, 2013)

Just received my first 1up rack today, a single version. I'm sure I'll be buying an add-on.

This thing is a beast, and much more substantial than any pics would lead one to believe.

My rack has the latest revisions, such as the powder coated tray and ratcheting. Everything arrived in perfect condition.

I realize everyone has their own preferences, opinions, and idiosyncrasies, but I'm a bit amused that people have been complaining about scratches, etc, on their racks.....it's a freaking RACK!


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Yama Arashi said:


> but I'm a bit amused that people have been complaining about scratches, etc, on their racks.....it's a freaking RACK!


It is just a bike rack but some people like all their stuff to look nice at all times.

My gear is always clean and well cared for, sure the bike is a mountain bike and has plenty of scrapes and bruises but it is clean as soon as I get it home, same for my car and rack. My house is the same way...


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Bailey44 said:


> It is just a bike rack but some people like all their stuff to look nice at all times.
> 
> My gear is always clean and well cared for, sure the bike is a mountain bike and has plenty of scrapes and bruises but it is clean as soon as I get it home, same for my car and rack. My house is the same way...


I like it...


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## david_f (Aug 7, 2013)

I just got my one-up single today. It's the latest version and arrived in mint condition. It took me about a minute to install it into the hitch and 15 seconds to install the bike on the rack. I agree with the general consensus that the rack is a well-made quality piece. The odd thing is that my draw-tite doesn’t work with the kryptonite mini5 evolution listed in the previous posts… I am unable to insert the rack deep enough into the receiver to get the lock to fit. I am either going to need a bigger lock, or remove the stop inside my receiver to allow me to insert it a little deeper. 
One more thumb up to one-up
-Dave


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

Yama Arashi said:


> I realize everyone has their own preferences, opinions, and idiosyncrasies, but I'm a bit amused that people have been complaining about scratches, etc, on their racks.....it's a freaking RACK!


i would prefer to scratch and ding my stuff myself.

not pay full retail and have it pre-scratched and dinged.

joel

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Darth Rider (Jun 22, 2013)

The reviews thus far have been fantastic for this rack so I went ahead and ordered the 2" with one add-on for my Honda Ridgeline. I will order another add-on when my youngest gets a bigger bike. Heading on vacation in a week and it will be delivered just in time. I was a little disappointed with the switch from anodizing to powder coating just because the early reviews were so positive.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

It was recommended to me to get the single unless I knew that I was going to need 4 trays and I would suggest that as well. The single is so easy to maneuver around and looks slim and sleek with either a bike on it or folded up. It doesn't block my license plate when folded up as well.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

david_f said:


> I just got my one-up single today. It's the latest version and arrived in mint condition. It took me about a minute to install it into the hitch and 15 seconds to install the bike on the rack. I agree with the general consensus that the rack is a well-made quality piece. The odd thing is that my draw-tite doesn't work with the kryptonite mini5 evolution listed in the previous posts&#8230; I am unable to insert the rack deep enough into the receiver to get the lock to fit. I am either going to need a bigger lock, or remove the stop inside my receiver to allow me to insert it a little deeper.
> One more thumb up to one-up
> -Dave


The ULock size is car dependent. I ended up using a 7" ULock on my car


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## Darth Rider (Jun 22, 2013)

Received the 2" rack yesterday. Heavier than I thought it would be, but very well put together and extremely easy to install. A little hard to put up vertical with the add-on as it was difficult to reach the black bar and have enough leverage to lift. Before ordering I was disappointed with the switch to powder coating. Having seen it in person I'm not concerned as long as there aren't any long term issues as opposed to the anodizing. With 3 bikes on it was rock solid for the short test ride to the trail. Will pick up a fourth add-on eventually, although I anticipate it being difficult to raise the rack with both. Need to get a longer bike lock that I can run thought the frames and around the hitch. Anyone have any suggestions for a 4-bike lock?


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^ A very long thick plastic coated cable and a heavy padlock..That is what I saw last week on a 4 bike 1Up rack in Colorado. These guys had the creme of the crop of bikes on their rack and took no chances at all. I think the bikes were worth more than the truck they drove around in..


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## curtisp (Aug 21, 2012)

My rack arrived yesterday. Finish looks great. (I ordered the black rack) Easy rack to install and use. Loaded a couple of 29'ers on it and took it for a test run...no issues. And...it folds up nicely and doesn't require a lot of space for storage.

I made the right choice and am glad that I waited until I could afford the 1up. :thumbsup:


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## curtisp (Aug 21, 2012)

I forgot to take a pic with the add-on...even with the add-on and the rack in the up position...the plate is not blocked.

Great rack...worth the price.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Matches the bike


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Curtisp - looks great! But are you sure that the rack is in to the receiver far enough? It looks like an awful lot is still sticking out. They want 2" of the hitch past the ball to be inserted into the receiver, if I remember correctly...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

Amanda679 said:


> To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?


Just fine. I squeezed in my pugsly 3.7 Larrys before. It 
was stupid tight, but it fit.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

It'll fit. I'm running fat Alberts and big Betty's 2.4 with room to spare.


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## curtisp (Aug 21, 2012)

albertdc said:


> Curtisp - looks great! But are you sure that the rack is in to the receiver far enough? It looks like an awful lot is still sticking out. They want 2" of the hitch past the ball to be inserted into the receiver, if I remember correctly...
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks! I'll check to see how far it's going into the receiver.(there's a stop inside the receiver)...but I might not have had it in all the way...I put it in just to take some pics.


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## bikerguy1984 (Jun 22, 2013)

The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car. 
The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.

Küat


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## cnitram (May 16, 2012)

The 1up rack is solid and looks good with any ride. You won't be dissapointed


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

bikerguy1984 said:


> The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car.
> The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.
> 
> Küat


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I considered a Kuat because friends of mine has one but went with the 1UP instead.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

bikerguy1984 said:


> The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car.
> The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.
> 
> Küat


Cool starry, bra. - Imgur


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Fortunately I drive a Jeep so the squared off 1Up does, in fact, flow with the lines of my vehicle.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

bikerguy1984 said:


> The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car.
> The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.
> 
> Küat


Nice sell guy.

I considered the Kuat, and truth be told it was my 2nd choice. I thought it looked pretty decent when I noticed one in the lot at my local spot about a year ago. But when I compared the features, price, functionality, the 1UP won.

I happened to notice another one in the lot the other day and thought it looked hella goofy!

again, 1UP wins. rft:


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I guess a big bulky Kuat rack would flow with the lines.:bluefrown:
Hey curtisp that rack looks great on your car.

Don't listen to a guy who's favorite type of riding is road.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

eurospek said:


>


I love this GIF. So sarcastic and patronizing.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

nemebean said:


> Fortunately I drive a Jeep so the squared off 1Up does, in fact, flow with the lines of my vehicle.


Looks great on the back of our BMW X5 too.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Also looks great on the back of my Accord or on the back of my wife's RAV4. I buy bike racks based on its function, not how well it complements my vehicle.


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

Since when did a bike rack become car bling? I much prefer my rack to be functional, safe, easy to use and durable. When I bought my 1up, appearances were not even considered. I should note, that I am a clean car freak as well.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

tiSS'er said:


> Since when did a bike rack become car bling? I much prefer my rack to be functional, safe, easy to use and durable. When I bought my 1up, appearances were not even considered. I should note, that I am a clean car freak as well.


Don't know about you, but I like to pose with my rack every now and then.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

digifun said:


> Don't know about you, but I like to pose with my rack every now and then.


The only rack I would like to pose with is Kate Upton's. I hear her bike rack is kickin'.


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## Geist262 (Feb 16, 2004)

Hiebs915 said:


> Does anyone have any trouble getting the bike rack off of your car? Mine seems to stick in the hitch until I hit the hitch area with a hammer to knock it loose.


I had this same thing happen to me. I used the same solution to break it free. Are you using the 2 inch adapter??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## david_f (Aug 7, 2013)

snapped a quick picture the other day. Unfortunatley it covers the licenseplate in the folded position, but luckily it stashes in the trunk so easily that its not a big deal.

-dave


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

tonyride1 said:


> I love this GIF. So sarcastic and patronizing.


As do I. <3


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

I have had my bike for a while, but in the last year decided I needed to invest in some kind of rack to transport my bike further distances. Being new to the whole rack concept, it still makes me kind of nervous (especially on the freeway). Let me just say that I LOVE my 1Up rack more and more every time I use it. I am so glad that I found that option and went with 1Up over the Thule T2. Worth every penny!!! One of my favorite things about it is the weight (or lack of) and how small it folds up. One of my best purchases EVER!! Ü


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

75 pages and counting


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

tennisfan76 said:


> One of my favorite things about it is the... and how small it folds up.


This is an extremely valid point. I don't know of any other rack who's trays can fold in half...

Case in point, I was in NYC for a show one night. Went to parking garage with my old yakima Stickup attached. Parking garage said they wouldn't park my car with that rack on it. (even though it was empty) I found myself on the street 5 minutes later removing the whole rack and trying to fit it into my back seat, nearly de-eyeballing my friend in the process. Had I had the 1UP then, removing the rack and folding the trays in half would have made things much, much easier - and quicker.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I leave my 1UP folded up and kept in the trunk of my car when not being used. I even put it in the trunk when I take the bike off to go riding at the parking lot/trail head. I don't leave it on the car when I'm not carrying a bike.


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## thatdrewguy (Jul 28, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> I leave my 1UP folded up and kept in the trunk of my car when not being used. I even put it in the trunk when I take the bike off to go riding at the parking lot/trail head. I don't leave it on the car when I'm not carrying a bike.


I'm curious what a single and/or double tray rack weighs. If it's in the trunk or hatch I take it you have to strap it down or it will get tossed around when driving?


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

47 lbs 2inch two bike rack. This is probably the only complaint I have. It just as heavy as a kuat nv


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

thatdrewguy said:


> I'm curious what a single and/or double tray rack weighs. If it's in the trunk or hatch I take it you have to strap it down or it will get tossed around when driving?


I have a single and I think it weighs around 21 lbs. and it doesn't get tossed around in the trunk at all. I do have a rubber trunk mat to protect the carpeted parts clean from dirt and muddy mountain bike shoes and stuff.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

JohnJ80 said:


> Looks great on the back of our BMW X5 too.
> 
> J.


You mean like this post #1483  => http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-quick-rack-quick-review-602461-60.html#post10234086


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## wlhighlight (Jul 27, 2011)

for those that ponied up for the black finish...how durable is it??

it is great engineering, but it looks very industrial...feel like the black mitigates to some extent...

thanks!


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## tennisfan76 (Jun 4, 2012)

wlhighlight said:


> for those that ponied up for the black finish...how durable is it??
> 
> it is great engineering, but it looks very industrial...feel like the black mitigates to some extent...
> 
> thanks!


I have the black.....granted my is the anodized version, so I don't know about the black powder coated. I have had mine now for just a little over a year and it looks as great as the day I got it. 
I have a black car and black bike and I just had to go with the black rack.

Good luck with your decision. I think that either way you won't be disappointed. It is a great rack!!!


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

bikerguy1984 said:


> The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car.
> The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.
> 
> Küat


:skep: Better huh why doesnt the kuat fold up and fit in the trunk of your car.
 Kuat scraps on driveways or parking lots unlike the 1up which angles the bikes upward away from the road,especially good when u have 4 bikes. Kuat racks dont angle the bikes up as u add on more racks to the rack so your pretty rack gonna have alot scratches on the bottom of it. 
Plus it takes alot less time to load and unload bikes and rack off the car with 1up.
Kuat has alot more steps to go threw as shown here 
[video]http://kuatracks.com/en/products/hitch/the-nv/#videos[/video]
yah sorry i like my time spent riding my bike more than spending 6mins on kuat rack.:skep:
Proud 1up user here best the rack hands down i have ever owned :thumbsup:


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^ I agree. I just saw a rather rusted up Kuat rack at the trailhead and am happy I have the 1Up rack. 2 1/2 years and no rust or any issues.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

I'm not sure how you figure 6 mins to load a bike on a kuat. I happen to own both. I kept the 1up because of its transformer feature. Other than that, these two are the best platform rack out there IMO. . My experience was, the 1up is quicker only in the loading process if the arms are already open. Unloading OTOH, is a bit awkward as always need to have the bike lean on me while I disengage the other arm. NV takes seconds to load and unload.


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## eclipse24 (Jan 14, 2012)

I never disengage the other arm. Once I move the arm on the front wheel, I roll the bike forward and lift up. The rear arm holds the bike steady until I roll it forward.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

gdtrfb24 said:


> I never disengage the other arm. Once I move the arm on the front wheel, I roll the bike forward and lift up. The rear arm holds the bike steady until I roll it forward.


That's basically how I unload a bike, too. Takes me 5 seconds to unload a bike.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

gdtrfb24 said:


> I never disengage the other arm. Once I move the arm on the front wheel, I roll the bike forward and lift up. The rear arm holds the bike steady until I roll it forward.


x2. This is exactly what I do as well. Seems needlessly complicated to open both arms. _Sometimes_, if I am carrying two really uncooperative bikes it might get a little awkward but that's definitely more the exception than the rule.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

gdtrfb24 said:


> I never disengage the other arm. Once I move the arm on the front wheel, I roll the bike forward and lift up. The rear arm holds the bike steady until I roll it forward.


Same.


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

evasive said:


> Same.


Same here.

I was talking bout the amount of time taking the racks on and off and loading the bikes 1up doesn't need hitch pin plus the kuat has more metal parts that rust. I owned a kuat rack as well got tired of the size of it and the space it took up in garage.


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## mwcet8k (Jun 17, 2004)

Has anyone noticed that the retaining bolt that secures the rack to the hitch loosens over time? Every time I remove the rack from my truck, I've noticed that the bolt doesn't feel as tight as it did when I installed it. It has never loosened enough to cause any problems (the rack still feels securely attached to the hitch), but it's a little worrisome that it even loosens at all.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I tightened mine down a fraction of a turn after the initial installation. I put that down to the ball bedding into the inner surface of the hitch receiver, as others have mentioned. Since then, mine hasn't required any further tightening. I generally leave mine on, and take it off only a few times a year during the riding season. Someone who removes/installs daily or weekly might have a different report, though.


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## SasquatchSC (Mar 11, 2004)

partswhore said:


> For clarity the bolts I am talking about:


I'm having issue with those same bolts removing sidewall rubber from my 4.8" Bud/Lou tires on my XXL Moonlander. I do have the 1up fat tire spacer kit installed.

I'm gonna try flipping the bolts around so that bolt heads face in and the rubber-munching nuts face out.

Just a heads up to you big Moonlander folk!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mwcet8k said:


> Has anyone noticed that the retaining bolt that secures the rack to the hitch loosens over time? Every time I remove the rack from my truck, I've noticed that the bolt doesn't feel as tight as it did when I installed it. It has never loosened enough to cause any problems (the rack still feels securely attached to the hitch), but it's a little worrisome that it even loosens at all.


I never experienced or noticed the bolt lossening and I remove/put on the rack all the time. But if it worries you then just use the velcro strap it came with and strap it down.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

tonyride1 said:


> I never experienced or noticed the bolt lossening and I remove/put on the rack all the time. But if it worries you then just use the velcro strap it came with and strap it down.


How will the velcro strap help keep the rack attached to car if the securing mechanism fails?

FWIW, it usually gets tighter, not looser for me. I went through a period of the securing mechanism loosening as you described. I told 1up about it, then sent me a prepaid label to send the rack back to them, they fixed it and sent it back. No problems since. I have about 80k miles on my rack. Maybe give them a jingle.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

racerwad said:


> How will the velcro strap help keep the rack attached to car if the securing mechanism fails?


For real.

That was the biggest put off factor for me with this rack, what will happen if the ball mechanism fails? I solved that easily myself with the mini U-Lock. Not only does it protect against theft at the trailhead, if the the ball mechanism would ever fail, the rack would slide out an inch or two in my receiver, but still be inside it because of the U-Lock. Mine's not going anywhere any time soon.


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## Darth Rider (Jun 22, 2013)

Just got back from vacation. Drove about 1500 miles with this rack. It worked perfectly the entire trip. It's getting easier to raise and lower it when empty but I'm sure it'll get tougher when I add the 2nd addon next year. I'll figure it out though. Adding and removing the bikes couldn't be more simple. Very happy with it!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

If anyone is interested in selling their rack Mk.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

If anyone is interested in selling their rack lmk.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

jonshonda said:


> If anyone is interested in selling their rack lmk.


Yeah, I'll sell mine for $700. J/K. I will never sell my rack as I have the anodized version on both the main rack and the add-on.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

racerwad said:


> How will the velcro strap help keep the rack attached to car if the securing mechanism fails?


If the ball fails the rack isn't going to immediately slide out - there's too much weight on it for that to happen. The problem is that over time the bouncing from hitting bumps in the road and such will likely cause it to work its way out of the hitch. The velcro strap should be enough to stop that from happening unless there is some serious force pulling straight back on the rack (which wouldn't happen in normal use).

It's interesting to hear that people have had issues with it both tightening and loosening. I think I've had both happen. One day at the trail I noticed that it seemed a little loose, but I forgot to tighten it when I got back from my ride. I remembered at my next destination, but when I went to tighten it, it was no longer loose. I'm a little surprised that it's even possible for it to get tighter, but that's good to know.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

eurospek said:


> For real.
> 
> That was the biggest put off factor for me with this rack, what will happen if the ball mechanism fails? I solved that easily myself with the mini U-Lock. Not only does it protect against theft at the trailhead, if the the ball mechanism would ever fail, the rack would slide out an inch or two in my receiver, but still be inside it because of the U-Lock. Mine's not going anywhere any time soon.


FYI - the Velcro strap can act in the same way as your mini U-lock to prevent the rack from falling out (it just doesn't have the antitheft properties of your lock). Feed the strap through the same way as the U-lock and cinch it down. Easy.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ I'm not trusting a strap of velcro with a $500 rack, there's just no way.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

eurospek said:


> ^ I'm not trusting a strap of velcro with a $500 rack, there's just no way.


That's fine. You have the right not to trust it. Of all the 1UP racks sold and miles traveled I have not heard of a single occasion where a rack came lose and fell off.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

bikerguy1984 said:


> The 1UP looks sloppy and strange ... Does not flow with the lines of any Car.
> The Kuat is better ... Buy the 1UP, then later when you realized you f-ed up, then buy the best - Kuat.
> 
> Küat


I strongly considered the Kuat, but the deal breakers for me were:

*Doesn't fold up very small and took up my entire trunk

*Made of steel, so it will rust out inside of a decade.

*heavy

The 1Up folds up small enough so it's footprint only takes up 1/3 of my Audi A4 B5 wagon's tiny trunk... even less in my A4 B6 sedan's trunk. I can basically keep the rack and a bike in the trunk of my sedan, wheels and bars off.... if I want to go fully stealth.

For those who are having issues with the black racks, ano or powder coated, if 1Up offers a refund, what about swapping it for a silver ano rack? My rack is 3 years old, and still looks brand new (except for some scraping at the tail end where it drags over driveway approach ramps... my A4 is super low.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

eurospek said:


> For real.
> 
> That was the biggest put off factor for me with this rack, what will happen if the ball mechanism fails? I solved that easily myself with the mini U-Lock. Not only does it protect against theft at the trailhead, if the the ball mechanism would ever fail, the rack would slide out an inch or two in my receiver, but still be inside it because of the U-Lock. Mine's not going anywhere any time soon.


Why would the ball mechanism fail? You seen the inside of that thing? It would be like asking if the wheels would spontaneously fall off your car. I'm sure it can happen if some negligent shop put the lug bolts back on finger tight, or if somebody was part way through stealing your rims, but really there are bigger worries in the world.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> Why would the ball mechanism fail? You seen the inside of that thing? It would be like asking if the wheels would spontaneously fall off your car. I'm sure it can happen if some negligent shop put the lug bolts back on finger tight, or if somebody was part way through stealing your rims, but really there are *bigger worries in the world*.


Exactly. According to 1up (biased source, I know) the failure I experienced is a rare occurrence. I always make sure to double check everything before driving away rather than depend on a janky velcro strap.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

mwcet8k said:


> Has anyone noticed that the retaining bolt that secures the rack to the hitch loosens over time? Every time I remove the rack from my truck, I've noticed that the bolt doesn't feel as tight as it did when I installed it. It has never loosened enough to cause any problems (the rack still feels securely attached to the hitch), but it's a little worrisome that it even loosens at all.


I had the same issue. I asked 1Up about it and they say it's because the ball makes a dent inside the square hitch receiver where the ball pushes out on it a bit.

Not to worry. That is not coming loose. I mean, try this: Put the rack on and _barely_ tighten the ball... I mean, turn the allen bolt around until it barely feels like it makes contact. Then, try and pull the rack out. It ain't going anywhere. It's super wedged in there. Really, not to worry.

It isn't that the ball is loose or bolt is backing out at all. I actually step on my allen wrench when I install it for extra snug, but this is way unnecessary.... it just satisfies my OCD for such things as this.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> it just satisfies my OCD for such things as this.


And my U-Lock use does the same for me. Lefts just leave it at that.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

OCD is a part of cycling.


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## Darth Rider (Jun 22, 2013)

Do you take your rack off before going through a car wash or do you leave it on?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I take mine off when I'm not carrying a bike. I store it in the trunk.


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## vbx (Jun 20, 2010)

LOL, wow, some of the comments here sounds a lot like the comments over in the Apple forum. "this is the best, everyone else sucks, don't hate". 

hahaha

Glad I passed on this rack. I don't like being lumped together with these mentally ill fanboys. And it looks too much like a ladder for my taste. 

The only thing I do like about it is the setup time. My rack takes about 5 minutes to setup.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

vbx said:


> LOL, wow, some of the comments here sounds a lot like the comments over in the Apple forum. "this is the best, everyone else sucks, don't hate".
> 
> hahaha
> 
> ...


I hope you're wearing your flame suit. Lol


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## Wasquatch (Sep 9, 2013)

*1Up Roof Rack Review w/Fatbike Spacers*

Just my two cents on the subject. I run a Thule one arm for my Santa Cruz up top, and I run a 1Up Roof Tray with fatbike spacers. The 1Up is a great rack, and with a few improvements I think it would be perfect.

If your going to keep both wheels on for transport on the roof, I wouldnt trust another rack. It holds with no hiccups. This applies to fatbikes.

Its easy to deploy, solid, and easy to fold back up.

A couple of nit picks on it, its rattles a little when driving. The attachment to the rails is basically two bolts, and a couple of nuts. It doesn't lock to your rails, or make it difficult to remove if you have a wrench. It has a poorly thought out design on drainage for wet conditions, so don't put the front channel protectors on it. I understand they aren't included for this reason anymore. The leverage you need to often slide the wheel spacers isn't enough with the provided levers. It could be smoother.

However, for roof rack transport of a fatbike, without taking a wheel off, this rack is the best I have found so far that can accommodate two 4.8" tires.

Photo of my Range Rover Evoque and a 2013 Surly Moonlander on board.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

vbx said:


> LOL, wow, some of the comments here sounds a lot like the comments over in the Apple forum. "this is the best, everyone else sucks, don't hate".
> 
> hahaha
> 
> ...


troll.

1. low post count
2. incendiary remarks 
3. nothing of value to be added.
4. insulting.

either that or a 14 year old with a computer.

J.


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## bus3 (Jan 31, 2013)

I was considering getting the black rack but not if the finish is coming off I think I will just get the silver. Of the people with the black rack where the finish is wearing off do you guys leave the rack on 24/7? Just curious to see what 1up has done for the people that have had issues with the finish.

For those who are having issues with the black racks, ano or powder coated, if 1Up offers a refund, what about swapping it for a silver ano rack? My rack is 3 years old, and still looks brand new (except for some scraping at the tail end where it drags over driveway approach ramps... my A4 is super low.[/QUOTE]


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I am still getting the black one. I never expect anything anodized to stay anodized forever. If a little wears off, so be it.


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

XJaredX said:


> I am still getting the black one. I never expect anything anodized to stay anodized forever. If a little wears off, so be it.


unfortunately, only power coated versions are available.

they do not offer the anodized versions 

joel


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Ohhh, I assumed it was ano. Either way, I'll still get black. As long as it doesn't rust when the powder coat wears away, I'm happy. Granted, that is my opinion, others might be more discerning


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Most of the 1Up is made out of aluminum and so it won't rust. The only steel bits are the sliders where the locking mechanism rides on, and a few bolts.


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## mfan (Feb 8, 2013)

XJaredX said:


> Ohhh, I assumed it was ano. Either way, I'll still get black. As long as it doesn't rust when the powder coat wears away, I'm happy. Granted, that is my opinion, others might be more discerning


My colleague recently got the black powder-coated version and it arrived all dinged-up and scratched. 1Up sent him a replacement, which arrived in only slightly better shape...still have some scratches and dings. Very disappointing for such an expensive rack 

My ano-silver, on the other hand, is holding up very well after about 6 months.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Wasquatch said:


> Just my two cents on the subject. I run a Thule one arm for my Santa Cruz up top, and I run a 1Up Roof Tray with fatbike spacers. The 1Up is a great rack, and with a few improvements I think it would be perfect.
> 
> If your going to keep both wheels on for transport on the roof, I wouldnt trust another rack. It holds with no hiccups. This applies to fatbikes.
> 
> ...


 I would have opted for the contrasting Santorini black roof but that's just me....


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## vbx (Jun 20, 2010)

Here's a pretty good unbiased review of both the 1up and the Thule 2.

1upUSA vs Thule T2 Bike Rack - YouTube


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

vbx said:


> Here's a pretty good unbiased review of both the 1up and the Thule 2.
> 
> 1upUSA vs Thule T2 Bike Rack - YouTube


  Not sure if this is your vid. Some notable things though: 

Anodized hardware? You can't anodize steel bolts. The bolts he mentioned are load bearing. You certainly don't want an anodized bolt here as it would be aluminum.

Black oxide bolts rust quickly. The 1up uses stainless. These work well. I would be disappointed to see any changes here.

Sold on simply the cable and handle lock? Wow.

If you rely on a handle lock embedded in plastic, good luck. False security.

If you rely on a cable lock, especially, the T2s, you are crazy. I can cut that with a light cable cutter, bolt cutter, tin snips and do it in seconds. Again, false security.

1.25 receiver not sturdy? But the 2 inch! 1up has both styles.

Just sayin'


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## vbx (Jun 20, 2010)

^ 1up uses stainless? Then why all the rust on the bolts?


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

vbx said:


> ^ 1up uses stainless? Then why all the rust on the bolts?


Have you read this thread? The answer to that has been posted. Slip-up in hardware sourcing that has been fixed, and 1UP will give you new hw if you ask.... if it's rusting.

Sent via my SGS3 & Tapatalk.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

mfan said:


> My colleague recently got the black powder-coated version and it arrived all dinged-up and scratched. 1Up sent him a replacement, which arrived in only slightly better shape...still have some scratches and dings. Very disappointing for such an expensive rack
> 
> My ano-silver, on the other hand, is holding up very well after about 6 months.


Yeah this won't bug me as it's aluminum underneath. In contrast, my black painted Thule hitch rack (the one below the T2) started rusting immediately at all the hinge points due to friction when raising and lowering the clamp arm. And any scratches the frame got started to rust immediately, because steel.

Ordered mine today, very stoked! I am happy because I can now easily carry my fatbike outside my car without resorting to weird straps and praying it stays put, or removing the wheel for use with a fork mount adapter. One rack for all my bikes.


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## bus3 (Jan 31, 2013)

Ordered a silver 2 bike and two add ons this morning and got an email saying it will be here Monday!!!! I can't wait!!!! Thanks 1up you guys are the best!!


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## RacerScott (Jul 7, 2013)

I bought a 1up black rack last week for my 2007 mazda3 hatchback. Arrived in perfect condition. Rack is simply awesome. My back is already feeling better not having to throw the bike in the back of my car.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

JAvendan said:


> i only have a single tray 1up and i hope others will reply to you!
> 
> i can offer these pics, though
> 
> ...


Hi you dont mention it but do it uses the special tool to remove or just the regular socket or allen key.
would someone be able to loosen it up and take the bike even with a cable lock?


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## Doc D (Nov 16, 2006)

I've had my 1Up for a little over a year, never took it off and never parked in a garage. I rarely wash my car. I have snapped a bolt on one of the arms, some bolts have rust and I had to adjust the tension on the arms once. It's the best rack I've ever had by far, I might hose the mud of it soon, probably not. Despite my best efforts to kill it, the rack just keeps working and feeling solid.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

What you guys say go ahead and get the 2 bike one or single i have only 2 bikes the baby wont be on a bike for a while.
It seem getting the 1 bike rack plus add on is lighter is it also a good fit on the hitch i be ordering a 2" hitch for my vehicle. Or only the two bike one comes with the ball that adjust to prevent any play.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

Unless you are planning on taking 4 bikes, or if you will regularly use the 2 bikes, I would just get the single. It is lighter and easier to maneuver. It folds up nicer so it doesn't block the license plate. 

All 1up racks use the expander ball thingy. 

The single comes with a 1.25" adapter thing for 2" that you take off if you want to run 1.25". I have read that you can get a single with a dedicated 2" hitch.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tooclosetosee said:


> Unless you are planning on taking 4 bikes, or if you will regularly use the 2 bikes, I would just get the single. It is lighter and easier to maneuver. It folds up nicer so it doesn't block the license plate.
> 
> All 1up racks use the expander ball thingy.
> 
> The single comes with a 1.25" adapter thing for 2" that you take off if you want to run 1.25". I have read that you can get a single with a dedicated 2" hitch.


+1

I have one of the original racks that does both 1.25" and 2" - they have since now marketed that as just 1.25" and for three bikes due to the rating on a 1.25" hitch if some idiot where to run 4 bikes on that. That said, we have many times (probably 10,000 miles of driving) put 4 bikes on the back for major road trips. There is no problem.

I also would suggest that if you are not going to really ever do 4 bikes and if you might do one bike, then to get the 1.25" version and use it in a 2" hitch. If you ever had to do 4 bikes, I would not hesitate to put 4 on it and if it was in a 2" hitch.

It's just so nice to have one bike in one tray on the back of the car when that's all you need.

J.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I have a single with a dedicated 2" hitch and two add ons, it's rock solid.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks guys, so let see if I get the single using the adapter on the 2'' is not to the task of more than 3 bikes by 1upusa. Or that only apply if you use it on a 1.25" hitch. 
Is the bar for the rack itself 1.25"?
I haven't bought a hitch for the vehicle yet but it seem that the 2" is the way to go.
Thanks.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Rock dude said:


> I have a single with a dedicated 2" hitch and two add ons, it's rock solid.


You got a custom with just the 2" or using the adapter.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

2" is the way to go


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

cloudbuster said:


> You got a custom with just the 2" or using the adapter.


I have a custom 2" No adapter.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Rock dude said:


> I have a custom 2" No adapter.


you got it from them? or local welder put that on?

I just email 1up let see if they have one of the single with a 2'' hitch bar no adapter.
After searching I found a video for those that wonder how is the adapter
1UP USA Quik-Rack Platform Bike Rack - YouTube
and he also have a video attaching one of the add ons
1UP USA Quik-Rack One Bike Add On - YouTube


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

What is the reasoning behind a 2" hitch over a 1 1/4"? I only because I just bought a Curt hitch for my Honda Odyssey, so i could order a 1UP. Every single hitch brand I looked at listed identical tongue and max towing weights for their 1 1/4" and 2" hitches. So if both sizes have identical weights, what's the deal?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That may be the case in actuality, but the difference between is between the hitch classes (defined by some governing body). My understanding is that the tongue weight parameter is the issue and they had to meet that for liability reasons.

Trailer Hitch Classes Defined and Explained

J.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Perhaps the hitches I was looking at, both Class II and Class III, were listed with identical tongue and towing capacities because of the vehicle they were going on (a Honda Odyssey).

Back to the 1Up talk, I got my black rack today, and HOLY CRAP is it nice. I am happy paying the premium just knowing it was made in the U.S. 

My manager was oogling it too, he's a machinist as a hobby, and he was pointing out all these nice things I didn't even know about.

I think someone a few comments up said the black is a powder coat? It sure looks anodized to me, though. Whatever, it's nice!


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

XJaredX said:


> What is the reasoning behind a 2" hitch over a 1 1/4"? I only because I just bought a Curt hitch for my Honda Odyssey, so i could order a 1UP. Every single hitch brand I looked at listed identical tongue and max towing weights for their 1 1/4" and 2" hitches. So if both sizes have identical weights, what's the deal?


I have the 2 bike 2" receiver one & my brother has the 1 bike 1 1/4" receiver & the biggest difference we both notice is stability when driving. My bike moves significantly less than his bike when we travel. He also bought 2 additional bike mounts & the more bikes on there the more shaking occurs. I've put up to 4 bikes on mine & they simply don't shake as much.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

mtbbiker said:


> I have the 2 bike 2" receiver one & my brother has the 1 bike 1 1/4" receiver & the biggest difference we both notice is stability when driving. My bike moves significantly less than his bike when we travel. He also bought 2 additional bike mounts & the more bikes on there the more shaking occurs. I've put up to 4 bikes on mine & they simply don't shake as much.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Agreed, I had the 1 1/4" hitch and didn't like the wobble when loaded with 4 bikes at all. I sold it and purchased the 2" two bike setup and it is much much sturdier. Unfortunately, my Odyssey was totaled leaving me without a way to haul my bikes, so the first thing I did was throw a 1 1/4" hitch on the Accord and purchased the 1 1/4" single tray bike rack, it's set for delivery tomorrow. I didn't even consider a different brand.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

gdtrfb24 said:


> I never disengage the other arm. Once I move the arm on the front wheel, I roll the bike forward and lift up. The rear arm holds the bike steady until I roll it forward.


I learned something today!! I've been fighting the awkward bike removal for years, I guess I'm slow. I'll have to try it out this weekend.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I've been away for a while and am reading through some of the posts, I'll know for sure tomorrow but please tell me this standard trays are not painted. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

for everyone benefit 1upusa does make a single bike rack with the 2'' receiver for $65 extra.

it seem that the smaller vehicles only have the 1.25'' hitch option, now I might have to reconsider my choice as it would get pricy to buy two racks.

how is the black paint holding up for those with the black one.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Mine is an original one at 1.25" that also does 2". If I were buying a new one today, I'd go for the 2" single version and then add 3 kits on to that to get to the 4 bike total. The modularity is really a huge deal for me.

I do agree that the 2" would be stiffer than the 1.25" version but either works great and you probably do get a bit more "future-proofing" for some with the 1.25" version since it will work in both hitch sizes.

J.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

edthesped said:


> I've been away for a while and am reading through some of the posts, I'll know for sure tomorrow but please tell me this standard trays are not painted.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4


new Trays are powder coated. No more anodized trays. I have 1 old style anodized and 1 new style powder coated and honestly the color is really close. Really hard to tell one is anodized and the other is powder coated.



> Mine is an original one at 1.25" that also does 2". If I were buying a new one today, I'd go for the 2" single version and then add 3 kits on to that to get to the 4 bike total. The modularity is really a huge deal for me.
> 
> I do agree that the 2" would be stiffer than the 1.25" version but either works great and you probably do get a bit more "future-proofing" for some with the 1.25" version since it will work in both hitch sizes.


They used to allow the users to add up to 3 add-on trays but now they only allow 2 add-ons. Some have said this is due to tongue weight limitation of class I hitch but I thought someone else got clarification from 1up and the reason is actually because they are afraid of the 2 bolts holding the add-on to the main rack snapping due to the weight and leverage of additional add-on. 
So to me, this means whether you have the 1.25 or 2 inch version, if you get the single rack option, you can only carry 3 bikes max(1 in the main rack and 2 add-ons). If you get the 2 inch version with only a single tray, you would still only be able to carry 3 bikes max(1 in main rack and 2 add-ons).
I know JohnJ80 has been using the rack for years with 3 add-ons without issues but this is something that 1up no longer recommends/allows.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

on another note I was just browsing 1up's website and noticed that they added some accessories. Some pretty exciting stuff!
1) Fender cushion for bikes with fenders. Now you can carry your cruiser bikes with fenders!
2) License plate holder that clips on to the add-on bolts. This is very exciting for me because the 1up rack completely obscures the license plate on my car when folded up so I always have to take the rack off when I'm not using it in fear of getting pulled over. So I end up not using the rack as much. Now I can leave the rack on the car full time and not worry about getting a ticket!
hm only problem I see now is there are no provisions for lights...so ticket is still a possibility....oh well, back to the drawing board.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, that's interesting. That's not what they told me when I talked with them about this whole issue a year or so ago. At that time, they told me that the problem was solely the tongue weight issue on the different hitch classes.

I'll call them again, but on a warranty and recall sense, they sold me the rack under the premise that it would take 4 bikes as advertised. There has been no recall so that must still be the case for racks that predated the current racks and I am using the rack in the manner advertised and promoted.

I'd be very surprised if those bolts were to break, they are under stress straight on when properly mounted and they are really quite heavy duty bolts.

J.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Regardless of what they say, if I were using even 2 add-ons, I would take some of the slack off the bolts by using a strap of some sort to prevent too much flex under load.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> Well, that's interesting. That's not what they told me when I talked with them about this whole issue a year or so ago. At that time, they told me that the problem was solely the tongue weight issue on the different hitch classes.
> 
> I'll call them again, but on a warranty and recall sense, they sold me the rack under the premise that it would take 4 bikes as advertised. There has been no recall so that must still be the case for racks that predated the current racks and I am using the rack in the manner advertised and promoted.
> 
> ...


I believe you and I discussed this a couple of seasons ago. The bolts should be fine as they are strongest in tension. I worried more about the aluminum bars failing under torsion when I made the decision to abandon the 1 1/4" setup in favor of the the 2" setup. You may recall that the flex with 4 bikes on the 1 1/4" setup gave me the willies after going to the 2" setup the flex and motion was less than half what it was with the 1 1/4" setup. I'm now going back to the 1 1/4" setup for my accord but after using the 1 1/4" and 2" setup with 4 bikes there's no way I'd feel comfortable hauling 4 bikes on the 1 1/4" setup but that's just me.

OTOH it sounds like you have more miles on your rack than I had on my 2" setup so I'd guess the rack has stood the test of time. I'd check the aluminum bars for cracking and signs of plastic deformation and if none is evident I'd say you should be okay as long as you can tolerate watching your bikes in the rear view.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I snapped a few pics of the 1 1/4" and 2" racks and the older, I assume 1st gen tray and will be happy to snap a few more if anyone is interested in something in particular.

Quick Rack Pictures


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## Pucker Factor (Jan 10, 2004)

OscarW said:


> Most of the 1Up is made out of aluminum and so it won't rust. The only steel bits are the sliders where the locking mechanism rides on, and a few bolts.


I just got mine this week and I'm damn sure they're aluminum. In fact, I'm already concerned that the little teeth on these slider bars are going to be worn out over time where the locks are usually engaged. Not a good move, IMO.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Yeah the sliders are aluminum. I'll just wait and see how they hold up over time.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

edthesped said:


> OTOH it sounds like you have more miles on your rack than I had on my 2" setup so I'd guess the rack has stood the test of time. I'd check the aluminum bars for cracking and signs of plastic deformation and if none is evident I'd say you should be okay as long as you can tolerate watching your bikes in the rear view.


Yes, I remember the discussion. I have, since, inspected it as you say and have seen nothing. The heaviest I've run it was with 4 hardtail MTBs on it which would have been about half the rated load of 250lb. So I don't think it's going to be an issue. Might be, if you were putting 4 downhill MTBs or so. All we ever use it for is 4 road bikes, 4 cross bikes or 4 MTBs and most of the time it's two.



XjaredX said:


> Yeah the sliders are aluminum. I'll just wait and see how they hold up over time.


And yes, the do hold up fine. My rack is about 5 years old with about 12K miles on it and there are no issues. And no, you do not need a strap.

J.


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## RacerScott (Jul 7, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> on another note I was just browsing 1up's website and noticed that they added some accessories. Some pretty exciting stuff!
> 1) Fender cushion for bikes with fenders. Now you can carry your cruiser bikes with fenders!
> 2) License plate holder that clips on to the add-on bolts. This is very exciting for me because the 1up rack completely obscures the license plate on my car when folded up so I always have to take the rack off when I'm not using it in fear of getting pulled over. So I end up not using the rack as much. Now I can leave the rack on the car full time and not worry about getting a ticket!
> hm only problem I see now is there are no provisions for lights...so ticket is still a possibility....oh well, back to the drawing board.


Probably wouldn't be to hard to run some lights to the holder, I thought about doing it.


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## cloudbuster (Dec 14, 2011)

Hi guys what is a good cable lock to use and what length to get?
I plan on routing it frames, wheels and to the hitch loop. 
what about this one
Amazon.com: Master Lock - Python Adjustable Cable Locks 8413-12: Automotive


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You do know that cable locks are a 5 second barrier with a bolt cutter, right?

J.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

They're a good enough deterrent if you stop at like a restaurant or something. Where you won't be gone long and it's in a public area. I'd trust them far more than either the integrated (skinny) cable locks on some racks, or the cylinder locks on Thules and Yakimas, which look like they can be defeated with a large flathead screwdriver.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

Cops have been posting pics & list of tools that bike thieves are using in the bay area... unfortunately, the battery operated grinders & sawzalls are also in widespread use.

I use cable locks mainly to "keep honest people honest"...


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Yeah. Like, if I was going to steal a bike, I'd have a battery powered sawzall. Zip through the 1UP arms in like 15 seconds total. The cable lock is a good deterrent though.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Actually, the more prolific thieves do. They are in the business of stealing bikes.

J.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Looks like a decent choice, just remember locks are for honest people so if a thief wants to steal they are going to steal. A blot cutter will probably cut right through that. I own the 1upusa rack and I only leave my bike on it when it's in my line of sight.


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## system-f (May 15, 2009)

My girlfriend recently purchased the 1UP double rack and we love it. I have had the double rack off-road in some very interesting situations with a bike and it has held up without fail. I needed something for my daily driver but didn't want to blow a ton of money because I can get a Kuat NV for what the single 1UP rack costs, but I KNOW the 1UP will hold onto bikes in the worse conditions and fit our fatbikes without issues. I also have a 2" receiver on my Honda and didn't want to use any 1 1/4" to 2" adapters. I decided to build a device that has a tray for the 1UP roof rack to bolt on to and then fits into a 2" receiver.

The only issues with the 1UP racks have been our bikes with fenders, but this is easily over come by adjusting the rack or inserting something between the tire and fender.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

system-f: nice job on this. 

For what its worth, I have two of those trays on the roof of my station wagon and the full hitch mount on the SUV... the guys at 1Up sold me two aluminum adapters so I can run the SUV rack as 2 or 3 or 4 bikes with those long trays.


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## system-f (May 15, 2009)

seano said:


> system-f: nice job on this.
> 
> For what its worth, I have two of those trays on the roof of my station wagon and the full hitch mount on the SUV... the guys at 1Up sold me two aluminum adapters so I can run the SUV rack as 2 or 3 or 4 bikes with those long trays.


Had I have known those were available I probably would have just purchased their adapters and made the 2" receiver piece. Were they on the website? It is not a total loss, I like doing metal work when I have the chance and the project was fun.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

You did a great job and it look like it works exactly the same!

Don't know if they were on the website: I called and spoke to them... told them how I wanted to outfit both cars and he told me about the adapters.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

system-f said:


> My girlfriend recently purchased the 1UP double rack and we love it. I have had the double rack off-road in some very interesting situations with a bike and it has held up without fail. I needed something for my daily driver but didn't want to blow a ton of money because I can get a Kuat NV for what the single 1UP rack costs, but I KNOW the 1UP will hold onto bikes in the worse conditions and fit our fatbikes without issues. I also have a 2" receiver on my Honda and didn't want to use any 1 1/4" to 2" adapters. I decided to build a device that has a tray for the 1UP roof rack to bolt on to and then fits into a 2" receiver.
> 
> *The only issues with the 1UP racks have been our bikes with fenders, but this is easily over come by adjusting the rack or inserting something between the tire and fender. *


Just on the 1UpUSA website and I recall that they have an adaptor to use it with fenders in the accessories section.

J.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Been using mine FINALLY. I prefer it to my T2 (I still like the T2s) due to the lower weight and ease of storage. I need to lube one of the bolts on the arms- it squeaks loud enough to wake up the whole cul de sac. Looks like it is going to be very durable, and I like the design. It holds the bikes very securely and looks like it will outlast the rusty steel racks.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

And that's how rumors start. :nono:



> The 1UpUSA delivers a cleaner, stealth look and the license plate is actually visible even with two trays. It is easier to install/remove from the vehicle since there's no bolt to thread through the hitch. It works with a ball cam system that tightens with a special wrench. However, this kind of system is not as secure and the cam can loosen over a period of time or when driving on very rough roads. And this will cause the hitch and the bikes to fall from the vehicle.


Review: Subaru XV Crosstrek ? Long Term Update | Mountain Bike Review

I don't think anyone's 1UP has ever loosened up and fallen out of their hitches.


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## BlackMamba2012 (Nov 24, 2011)

I have drove offroad for 2 yrs on very rough and gravel and mud rutted roads never had a bike fall off or the rack come loose. I have had zero issues with my rack.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

People have definitely had them loosen, but I've never heard of anyone's falling completely off either. Even without the ball locked, it would be difficult to pull the rack out of the hitch with 30+ pounds of bike on it. If it's a concern then that's what the velcro strap or a u-lock are for.


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## ojelijb (Jun 8, 2009)

francois, i'm kinda surprised with that statement coming from you it seems rather careless unless of course you have some data to back it up. not bashing, i love your reviews and most of my mtb related decisions have been influenced by mtbr articles and reviews.
I just keep mine(with 1 add-on) on the car all the time and i've never even had to retighten the ball cam mechanism. It has been snug and tight for close to 2 years now.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

nemebean said:


> People have definitely had them loosen, but I've never heard of anyone's falling completely off either. Even without the ball locked, it would be difficult to pull the rack out of the hitch with 30+ pounds of bike on it. If it's a concern then that's what the velcro strap or a u-lock are for.


All the ball does is supply friction to hold the rack in the receiver. Try it yourself - loosen the ball progressively and see how loose it has to be before it comes out. Bottom line - it's not going to come out.

When I install the rack for a road trip, I tighten it then drive for 10 miles and check it and usually give it a tweak. I've never had it loosen and I have had it where it seems tighter (but who can tell). I've driven mine something like 10-12K miles and never had a problem. This issue is invented and not in actual practice.

J.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I was the one who commented on the MTBR Facebook thread where that link was originally posted. Francois told me to calm down and that his friend had one and it fell out. Curious though because your think other people would have mentioned it. 

I saw that 1Up blurb in the XV review as irresponsible and lazy "reviewing". 

I personally will never use my 1Up without a backup strap or chain or cable attaching it to my hitch, but that's not from mistrust of the rack (which I love), it's more just common sense. And perhaps a little OCD. I do it for the same reason two chains are used as a backup for larger trailers- **** happens when it is least expected.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Well, I can't say it can never happen but I'll just make sure I check the tightness often.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I think it would be hard for it to fall out if it was loaded with bikes and not tightened at all. There is a lot of friction to overcome from having 100 lbs of bikes leveraging it down in the receiver.

I can't for the life of me imagine how someone could get one to fall off. It has to be operator error - not to many other ways to explain it.

Finally, you don't need a strap or a lock to lock it on. It's not coming out.



J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

eurospek said:


> And that's how rumors start. :nono:
> 
> Review: Subaru XV Crosstrek ? Long Term Update | Mountain Bike Review
> 
> I don't think anyone's 1UP has ever loosened up and fallen out of their hitches.


Agreed, this is totally absurd. Anecdotes aren't data and it seems unlikely that a thread with this many hits, views, and posts would lack those types of experiences if they really did occur with the type of certainty implied by the article. Any mechanical device can fail - that much is obvious. Saying that the retention mechanism could loosen up over time isn't unreasonable because that certainly has happened. Saying that the next step is that it _will_ fall out is less certain and makes things seem dubious.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Sorry to have to say so, but the conjecture about the 1UpUSA's retention is really irresponsible. It also should have been presented as a conjecture and it wasn't. 

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I never had any issues with the ball loosening either but being an engineer naturally I had to conduct an experiment to rest my concerns. So I put the rack on my car, tightened the ball, no bike. I used the velcro strap but I put it on a bit loose. I left it that way for about 100 miles of driving in all types of roads and highways. Checked the velcro strap and it was just as loose as before. So that means the ball didn't loosen up and the rack didn't slide one bit. Then I repeated the experiment but this time with a bike on the rack. Same result, no slippage at all. But knowing parts do wear out I still put the velcro strap on loosely from time to time as a monitor. So far so good.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> I never had any issues with the ball loosening either but being an engineer naturally I had to conduct an experiment to rest my concerns. So I put the rack on my car, tightened the ball, no bike. I used the velcro strap but I put it on a bit loose. I left it that way for about 100 miles of driving in all types of roads and highways. Checked the velcro strap and it was just as loose as before. So that means the ball didn't loosen up and the rack didn't slide one bit. Then I repeated the experiment but this time with a bike on the rack. Same result, no slippage at all. But knowing parts do wear out I still put the velcro strap on loosely from time to time as a monitor. So far so good.


:thumbsup:

J.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I doubt mine will loosen up but if it is not tight, it will fall off on the road. I'll see what type of backup strap I can come up with, but mine (the ball on the rack) has not loosened up yet. I keep a tool in each vehicle, so I never get caught without one.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That would only happen if you didn't tighten it.

With any rack, you should always check it periodically. I do this while I'm getting gas. FWIW, I've never ever had it loosen in 10K+ miles.

So, if you check the tightness of it while you're putting the strap on, then you don't need to put the strap on. 

I played around with this years ago, and I'll do it again, but it really doesn't take much to make the rack immobile in the receiver - far less than any of us tighten it down (probably a couple to three orders of magnitude would be my guess). There is a LOT of friction when the bikes are on the rack and the rack is cantilevered out of the receiver. That means that the bikes alone are causing the tongue piece of the rack put a lot of force on the top of the receiver (i.e. rack trying to tip back) and on the bottom edge of the receiver.

J.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

For those of you with a roof tray, how do you lock the rack to your bars?


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

Its not locked onto the bars... one wrench and its gone. 

I've always left the bike mounts on the roof (years & years) and they all popped off even easier - just big plastic wing nuts.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I have some roof mounts that I convinced Cal (original engineer at 1UpUSA) to make for me so that I could have a set of 4 trays for the back of the car and that two of the trays didn't fold and could be used as roof top racks. They mount differently than the current version requiring 4 bolts around each rack bar. Anybody that wants to steal them is going to be spending a LOT of time unbolting these. So I don't worry about it. It's really no more or less secure than some of my Yak bike racks either.

J.


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## Mike2009 (Jul 17, 2009)

I wondered how all the reviews of this rack could possibly be so good...I was very skeptical. After my current rack wore out I decided to take a shot with this rack and all I can say is WOW!!! It is truly amazing...so sturdy, so solid, so well made... after seeing the one bike rack up close I immediately purchased the 2nd bike add on rack... I have no doubt that this rack will last many many many years. There are very few products that I have seen in my 50 years that have impressed me as much as this bike rack. You gotta check this out....it may cost more but it is worth every penny. Mike


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## Tokomojo (Jan 19, 2013)

How does the black finish hold up? I'm trying to justify the cost.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Mike2009 said:


> I wondered how all the reviews of this rack could possibly be so good...I was very skeptical. After my current rack wore out I decided to take a shot with this rack and all I can say is WOW!!! It is truly amazing...so sturdy, so solid, so well made... after seeing the one bike rack up close I immediately purchased the 2nd bike add on rack... I have no doubt that this rack will last many many many years. There are very few products that I have seen in my 50 years that have impressed me as much as this bike rack. You gotta check this out....it may cost more but it is worth every penny. Mike


After 3 or 4, sorry I can't remember exactly how many, years in service mine is in excellent shape. I definitely don't regret the purchase.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk 4


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## wu501 (Aug 12, 2010)

Anybody experience the contact arms loosening up over time? I've had my for about 2 seasons and lately when I get to my destination the arm or arms have backed off the tires. While it is not enough for the bike to fall out, I don't like having to worry about it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Nope. Did you make sure you tightened them so there was some deformation in the tire? Did the tire lose air pressure? Even if it were to loosen, it won't fall out.

J.


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## wu501 (Aug 12, 2010)

^^Yes, I use it the same way I have for the past 2 years. This has just been a recent issue. I'm sure its an easy fix, just haven't had a chance to mess with it.


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## litany (Nov 25, 2009)

Today I got some steel hooks with a rubberized finish that you can screw into walls to hang things by from Ace. I took some time and hung my bike racks. It worked out pretty well and I'm very happy with the result. They are quite secure and I am not worried about them falling on my car during an earthquake. I figured I'd share the idea with you guys. Take a look:


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

^ I take it you live in Cali? Good idea to secure the pieces like that..


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I have my racks hanging on the wall in my garage also only not as neatly as yours.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

I've had my rack for a couple years and love it. However, I just bought an add-on and right out of the box I see what others mean about the latest finish (PC vs. ano, i believe). I've got what look like bubbles or bumps that span 15" on one of the rack's arms. I view this as a tool, and as such it will get banged up in doing its job. However, this seems to be a bit out of the ordinary and based on the quality of my rack, I had expected the add-on to have a bit higher QC standards than this. Anyone else see something similar to this? I'll contact 1Up to talk to them about it. I know they're great guys and will address it.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

That looks horrible and is bound to crack and flake in no time. One of their main reasons for going to powder coating was that they were having trouble with consistency of the anodized finished...but I think we would all accept a swirl in the anodized finished a whole heck of a lot more readily than the flaking, bubbling powder coat finishes people have posted on here! 

I held off buying an add-on this summer once they made the switch to powder coating figuring it would give them time to refine the process. I was getting close to pulling the trigger...but I guess I'll wait longer. Hopefully they'll get it figured out by next spring. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

wu501 said:


> Anybody experience the contact arms loosening up over time? I've had my for about 2 seasons and lately when I get to my destination the arm or arms have backed off the tires. While it is not enough for the bike to fall out, I don't like having to worry about it.


Mine always do. It's not your imagination or low tires.

They sent me rails with thumb screws that are on each red lever. These tighten against the friction rail and hold the arms in place. I am going to call them and see if they will sell me the new ratchet tooth style arms / friction rail. The thumbscrews work, but they seem out of place such an otherwise high-end rack.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I'm so glad I got my add-on just before they switched from ano to PC.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

albertdc said:


> One of their main reasons for going to powder coating was that they were having trouble with consistency of the anodized finished...but I think we would all accept a swirl in the anodized finished a whole heck of a lot more readily than the flaking, bubbling powder coat finishes people have posted on here!


Has anyone ever complained about their anodized finish in these 67 pages of this thread? I spent quite a bit of time researching racks a few years ago and never read anything on that subject. If I was in the market today, I would think twice about spending $500+ on a rack that aesthetically looks bad right out of the box.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Neither version looks bad out of the box. Not sure of your point.

The case here is a warranty issue, not an aesthetics issue. Either powder coat or anodizing can look great (and do).

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Neither version looks bad out of the box. Not sure of your point.
> 
> The case here is a warranty issue, not an aesthetics issue. Either powder coat or anodizing can look great (and do).
> 
> J.


Not according to post #1980.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

That's a warranty issue and even if they don't agree there is the 60 money back guaranty, then I think it's pretty easy to put that to rest.

J.


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> Neither version looks bad out of the box. Not sure of your point.
> 
> The case here is a warranty issue, not an aesthetics issue. Either powder coat or anodizing can look great (and do).
> 
> J.


To me, the purchaser, it's both an aesthetics and a warranty issue.

No matter - 1Up responded to me right away and will ship out a replacement add-on to swap out.

Good company with great customer service. Hope the replacement has a better finish.


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## jhat (Sep 27, 2010)

I also vote for the anodization to return. I really do not care about a few swirl marks in the finish. Luckily I already have all four trays. 

As far as the bolts loosening, if that is the case, just use blue loctite and your problem should be solved.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

moldau94 said:


> To me, the purchaser, it's both an aesthetics and a warranty issue.
> 
> No matter - 1Up responded to me right away and will ship out a replacement add-on to swap out.
> 
> Good company with great customer service. Hope the replacement has a better finish.


Like I thought. They are a good company for sure. My experiences with them have been nothing but positive. And I love the rack.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

albertdc said:


> That looks horrible and is bound to crack and flake in no time. One of their main reasons for going to powder coating was that they were having trouble with consistency of the anodized finished...but I think we would all accept a swirl in the anodized finished a whole heck of a lot more readily than the flaking, bubbling powder coat finishes people have posted on here!
> 
> I held off buying an add-on this summer once they made the switch to powder coating figuring it would give them time to refine the process. I was getting close to pulling the trigger...but I guess I'll wait longer. Hopefully they'll get it figured out by next spring.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


So, they're using powder coat for the silver color as well? That's lame. Silver is easy peasy to anodize, but PC is cheaper. I guess they want to make more money, or something. I thought the reason they switched was that they were having issues getting black ano to get a dark enough black. This should not be an issue with Silver.

That sucks. I'm now kicking myself for waiting so long to add the second tray. Now, I guess I'll try and find a used silver ano tray. Good frickin' luck with that one!


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

pimpbot said:


> So, they're using powder coat for the silver color as well? That's lame. Silver is easy peasy to anodize, but PC is cheaper. I guess they want to make more money, or something. I thought the reason they switched was that they were having issues getting black ano to get a dark enough black. This should not be an issue with Silver.
> 
> That sucks. I'm now kicking myself for waiting so long to add the second tray. Now, I guess I'll try and find a used silver ano tray. Good frickin' luck with that one!


Yes. Exactly. And I never once heard complaints about the anodized finished but there have been many complaints about the PC.
That said, at least the only part that is powder coated is the actual tray. The rest of it is still anodized.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

pimpbot said:


> So, they're using powder coat for the silver color as well? That's lame. Silver is easy peasy to anodize, but PC is cheaper. I guess they want to make more money, or something. I thought the reason they switched was that they were having issues getting black ano to get a dark enough black. This should not be an issue with Silver.
> 
> That sucks. I'm now kicking myself for waiting so long to add the second tray. Now, I guess I'll try and find a used silver ano tray. Good frickin' luck with that one!


It's easy to anodize any color, the trick is getting them to all match be the same color.

I would guess that they have the parts done in batches so a whole rack would have all kinds of different shades. The only way around this would be to anodize the whole set of pieces for one rack, but that would be sort of crazy (and horribly expensive).

J.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

albertdc said:


> Yes. Exactly. And I never once heard complaints about the anodized finished but there have been many complaints about the PC.


I can't find the post now, but somebody from 1Up commented on the change to power coating. Basically what happened was that they were having trouble with quality control on the anodizing and it was costing them a fortune because they kept having to redo it. So there were no complaints about the ano version because they never shipped out the bad ones, but it was a major problem for 1Up.

At least that was the gist of the post as I remember it. Somebody correct me if I got anything wrong.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Having been involved with both powder coating and anodizing (in my case for electronics enclosures), I can testify that in general, it is a ROYAL pain in the a$$ to get right. Powder coating is easier to get right but with both processes, it's really hard to find suppliers with good consistency.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

JohnJ80 said:


> It's easy to anodize any color, the trick is getting them to all match be the same color.
> 
> I would guess that they have the parts done in batches so a whole rack would have all kinds of different shades. The only way around this would be to anodize the whole set of pieces for one rack, but that would be sort of crazy (and horribly expensive).
> 
> J.


mmm yeah, but...

Silver should be a no-brainer to color match.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Blah blah blah ...


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

You guys get super into your racks! I put mine on my car, went "yup, nice rack, hope it won't rust, but if any bolts rust I can replace them, cool" and then largely forgot about its existence, other than periodically thinking "glad I bought this"


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

XJaredX said:


> You guys get super into your racks! I put mine on my car, went "yup, nice rack, hope it won't rust, but if any bolts rust I can replace them, cool" and then largely forgot about its existence, other than periodically thinking "glad I bought this"


Spot on. I bought a $180 roof tray, though, so I might be a little more nitpicky if I spent $500+ on a hitch system.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

pimpbot said:


> mmm yeah, but...
> 
> Silver should be a no-brainer to color match.


Think about it - cyclists are pretty OCD about everything like this (this thread is evidence of that). It's a pain to have some guy send a rack back because the trays don't match each other. The problem with anodizing is if they don't match, rework isn't easy and is expensive. So, they are looking for a way to make it better and save hassle and money.

J.


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## dakotakid (Jun 25, 2007)

Request for feedback on whether the rack ever hits the ground (angle of departure) in rugged terrain. I have done the White Rim trail in Canyonlands N.P. a few times with a roof rack and saw some of the rear racks dragging on the ground. I imagine this might not be an issue with only one, maybe two, but it seems like more than that would likely have the rack dragging when ascending from gullies, etc. Any observations?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

No firsthand experience, but obviously the height of the hitch is critical. Are you wondering about the rack in use carrying an unridden bike (in which case the number of trays is a variable)? If the rack is folded up, it's pretty close to the bumper. If it helps, here's mine on a stock Trooper compared to my buddy's NSR-4.


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## dakotakid (Jun 25, 2007)

The hitch is on a Toyota Tacoma, so it's fairly high, but still a concern in rugged terrain. The inquiry is for carrying bikes, not folded up. Thanks.



evasive said:


> No firsthand experience, but obviously the height of the hitch is critical. Are you wondering about the rack in use carrying an unridden bike (in which case the number of trays is a variable)? If the rack is folded up, it's pretty close to the bumper. If it helps, here's mine on a stock Trooper compared to my buddy's NSR-4.
> 
> View attachment 846254


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

dakotakid said:


> Request for feedback on whether the rack ever hits the ground (angle of departure) in rugged terrain. I have done the White Rim trail in Canyonlands N.P. a few times with a roof rack and saw some of the rear racks dragging on the ground. I imagine this might not be an issue with only one, maybe two, but it seems like more than that would likely have the rack dragging when ascending from gullies, etc. Any observations?


One of the really cool things about this rack is that each additional add-on slants up further compared to the previous one. So the more you add on, the farther away from the ground each extra tray ends up at. So you will get a much better departure angle with this rack than with any other rack on the market - all of the other racks I've seen just extend straight out.

You can see a decent picture of that in post #1045 by J_Westy. There is a link in that post to more of his photos in a Jeep forum and one of those extra picture really shows the additional rise built into the add-ons really well - check it out. He posted those extra pics somewhere in this thread also, but at least I found the initial post for you.


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

dakotakid said:


> The hitch is on a Toyota Tacoma, so it's fairly high, but still a concern in rugged terrain. The inquiry is for carrying bikes, not folded up. Thanks.


I have a Tundra and a 1up. The 1up has about as much ground clearance as you can get with a rack on.


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## dakotakid (Jun 25, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback. I called the company today and they said the same, and that they know of nobody that has had a problem dragging the deployed rack (even with 4 bikes) with a 4 by 4 truck. I'm not sure this is conclusive, as I'm sure I've been over routes (and not wild jeep stuff) in the Moab area where rack might drag. That said, it would be minimal and rare, so I'm likely to buy the two bike rear rack soon. Thanks again.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

dakotakid said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I called the company today and they said the same, and that they know of nobody that has had a problem dragging the deployed rack (even with 4 bikes) with a 4 by 4 truck. I'm not sure this is conclusive, as I'm sure I've been over routes (and not wild jeep stuff) in the Moab area where rack might drag. That said, it would be minimal and rare, so I'm likely to buy the two bike rear rack soon. Thanks again.


You may wanna check northshore rack


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

digifun said:


> You may wanna check northshore rack


I like the NS4 a lot, and if I had more than a 2 bike capacity I'd rather hang them vertically than extend the rack out from the car. That said, several of my friends have dragged their NS4s on the ground in the Moab area. If you look at my buddy's 4-Runner in the photo I posted above, you can imagine it pretty easily.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

How do you store the Northshore racks? Do they fold up or something?

J.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

*1UPUSA Quick Rack*















OK folks, no one has ever mentioned that I could find of developing an issue with this rack. I bought mine maybe 4-5 years ago and it has always been exactly what I expected it to be. A quick install, load, unload and ride bike rack. Recently I did develop an issue though where I no longer could depend on the rack to not loosen while I was driving to the trail. I finally started using a cargo strap to hold the bars from slipping until I contacted 1UP through an email. They asked for pics, I took and sent them what I felt was the issue. Today I received replacement parts to make the repair that took me about 10 minutes to do. Appears to have solved the issue but I won't know for sure until I ride this weekend.

If you were an early purchaser as I was, I would advise you watch for this issue as it might possibly develop. The repair consisted of replacing the stainless steel slider bars (the only part of the rack that is not aluminum) with machined aluminum slider bars that actually have tiny teeth along the rail. I hope putting the teeth down was the right decision, I tried up and it would not hold. I was also provided two bolts with bushings to replace the end pivot points.

You might ask what I paid. 10 minutes of my time and nothing else. I still believe this bike rack is the best on the market and that this company stands behind their product 100%. The only reason I am posting this is to inform folks that have this rack that there could be an issue and if they are in the position I am and depend on the rack to hold their expensive bike then they should know about it.

Enjoy the ride!!!


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> How do you store the Northshore racks? Do they fold up or something?
> 
> J.


They fold in half, but not more than that. You can buy (or fashion) a hitch mount that you can bolt to your garage wall; that's the most elegant way to store them. Most of my friends just lean them against the wall.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

sgtjim57 said:


> OK folks, no one has ever mentioned that I could find of developing an issue with this rack. I bought mine maybe 4-5 years ago and it has always been exactly what I expected it to be. A quick install, load, unload and ride bike rack. Recently I did develop an issue though where I no longer could depend on the rack to not loosen while I was driving to the trail. I finally started using a cargo strap to hold the bars from slipping until I contacted 1UP through an email. They asked for pics, I took and sent them what I felt was the issue. Today I received replacement parts to make the repair that took me about 10 minutes to do. Appears to have solved the issue but I won't know for sure until I ride this weekend.
> 
> If you were an early purchaser as I was, I would advise you watch for this issue as it might possibly develop. The repair consisted of replacing the stainless steel slider bars (the only part of the rack that is not aluminum) with machined aluminum slider bars that actually have tiny teeth along the rail. I hope putting the teeth down was the right decision, I tried up and it would not hold. I was also provided two bolts with bushings to replace the end pivot points.
> 
> ...


Someone mentioned that they were coming this way earlier this year: 1up Quick Rack Quick Review. - Page 65

I've noticed that if I let the locking mechanism get dirty, it doesn't lock very well. A thorough cleaning and a few drops of lube on the pivots (not the locking bar, obvi) and I'm good to go. About 90k miles and still going strong.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Damn, the teeth are up. Looks like I better "re-fix" it tonight.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

racerwad said:


> I've noticed that if I let the locking mechanism get dirty, it doesn't lock very well.


The biggest thing I've noticed is that if the sliders get too dusty or dirty, one of them wants to bind when I slide it open. Rinsing it out solves that. I leave mine on my SUV through the riding season and I drive a lot of gravel roads, so it's something I need to do every few weeks.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

So, my rack is a few months old, and is left on the car constantly, and recently, I've been unable to slide the left arm open. Any thing I should check? I mean it is like it is locked, it's not just like it's sort of hard to open.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Lube the pivots? Might help. Just not the slider bars.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

XJaredX said:


> So, my rack is a few months old, and is left on the car constantly, and recently, I've been unable to slide the left arm open. Any thing I should check? I mean it is like it is locked, it's not just like it's sort of hard to open.


Probably got the cam to lock in a bit of a notch on the rail. You can probably just push down on the arm while pulling up on the release and it will open. I would not hesitate to really pull up hard on the release too.

J.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Oh, it moves, its not stuck on the slider. I just am not sure how the pivot bolts would just suddenly seize though


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, it probably needs some lubrication then. You could have gotten some junk in there or some corrosion at some level. 

When something moves and it shouldn't, try duct tape. When something doesn't move and it should, try WD40.

J.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Try rinsing it out- either a garden hose or a car wash. Be careful about lubing the sliders. Even after a very light application, the arms tend to creep open for a while afterwards. Best not to, IME. Just cleaning them has worked best for me.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I had this issue, spoke to 1up and it's an easy fix.

With your arms folded down, pull up on them without releasing the red lever. Give it a good and steady pull against the tension. This retightens the slop in the locking mechanism and mine works like new afterwards. Now I give it a tug about once a month as "preventative maintenance".


JohnJ80 said:


> Probably got the cam to lock in a bit of a notch on the rail. You can probably just push down on the arm while pulling up on the release and it will open. I would not hesitate to really pull up hard on the release too.
> 
> J.


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## racerwad (Sep 17, 2005)

Bailey44 said:


> ...I give it a tug about once a month as "preventative maintenance"...


Definitely a good plan :thumbsup:


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Thanks, I'll try that too!


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Bailey44 said:


> I had this issue, spoke to 1up and it's an easy fix.
> 
> With your arms folded down, pull up on them without releasing the red lever. Give it a good and steady pull against the tension. This retightens the slop in the locking mechanism and mine works like new afterwards. Now I give it a tug about once a month as "preventative maintenance".


this was the correct solution to the problem. weird that it only happened to the left side, although the left side is the side that always gets closed last, maybe it gets more action than the right arm? Thanks everybody!


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## pdon (Oct 24, 2013)

I am interested in this rack. I live in an urban area so I want something that is tight (and preferably a bit higher) against the trunk on my ford escape. I would only be using the single tray. Judging by some of the pictures in the thread it seems like the rack keeps it in nice and close.

Is the system of securing the bike to the tray as secure as a arm system on the thule t2 or kuat? obviously the people who designed the rack are way smarter than me...but to the average joe, it doesn't look like the bike is on there as tight. 

any feedback would be much appreciated


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I have a Thule Sidearm in addition to my 1Up, the Sidearm has the same mounting system as the T2, and I can safely say I have much more faith in the 1UP. Plus, my Sidearm froze the other day. The 1Up did not.

That said, I always still put one of these around one of my wheels. Takes 5 seconds. Redundancy is not a bad thing.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

I leave my rack on the SUV full time. It sits so close to the bumper folded, you parallel park like normal. You may consider getting a 2 tray setup as your base setup since it sits just as close to the car when folded. Non-issue - which is awesome.

The bikes are just as secure from a "potential to lose them" perspective, but I think they may wiggle more than the thule/kuat systems. This, ultimately is a non issue too - there is no way you'll lose a bike unless the rack breaks (which I presume is the same for the other racks). I have 100% confidence in this system and love it: I use my rack typically every other day all year and have taken numerous trips with 1-4 bikes up to 14 hour road trips.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

You won't be disappointed


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## skintup (Jun 25, 2009)

Just received my 1up quick rack and it is slick! (powder coated trays) 
I moved from a pick-up truck to hatch back and I was looking for a no fuss set and go rack couldn't be happier with my choice.


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## BigEarn86 (Jan 13, 2012)

skintup said:


> Just received my 1up quick rack and it is slick! (powder coated trays)
> I moved from a pick-up truck to hatch back and I was looking for a no fuss set and go rack couldn't be happier with my choice.


How long between ordering and when you received the package from 1up? I just ordered mine today. Thanks


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## skintup (Jun 25, 2009)

3 days, to East Tennessee. Not bad for free shipping.


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## BigEarn86 (Jan 13, 2012)

skintup said:


> 3 days, to East Tennessee. Not bad for free shipping.


Thanks. I will post back with pictures and shipping time to East NC!


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

I tried to read the whole thread but there are too many pages, so sorry if this has already been asked.


I would like to get the 2 bike version since 90% of the time I carry 2 bikes, my gf's and mine.
And who knows, maybe someday I might have to get an add-on for a third bike, if you know what I mean. 


Is the locking system secure enough or is it better to make a hole and put a pin? 
It looks a bit scary to me, I don't want to lose the bikes and bike rack on the road.

Are the arms that secure the wheels strong enough, do they bend?


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## BigEarn86 (Jan 13, 2012)

I will post a YouTube un-boxing video when I get mine. I bought the two bike in black, today. No experience yet though. Sorry.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

Skylined said:


> I tried to read the whole thread but there are too many pages, so sorry if this has already been asked.
> 
> I would like to get the 2 bike version since 90% of the time I carry 2 bikes, my gf's and mine.
> And who knows, maybe someday I might have to get an add-on for a third bike, if you know what I mean.
> ...


Don't drill a hole you will ruin the rack.
The rack will hold your bike just fine. I have taken my rack on over 3000 miles of rough dirt roads with 3 heavy bikes and the rack has never let me down.


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

And by the way the three bikes aren't cheep. The total value of the three is well over $25,000. So if anyone should be worried it would be me.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Rock dude said:


> Don't drill a hole you will ruin the rack.
> The rack will hold your bike just fine. I have taken my rack on over 3000 miles of rough dirt roads with 3 heavy bikes and the rack has never let me down.


I've done over 12,000 with mine including hitting a bump in the road that just about put us airborne in an SUV at 80mph with 4 bikes on back and no problems.

Excellent rack. Highly recommended.

J.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Thanks guys! 


What about the arms that secure the wheels, are they strong enough, do they bend?


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Skylined said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> What about the arms that secure the wheels, are they strong enough, do they bend?


Yes they are strong. No they will not bend


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Skylined said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> What about the arms that secure the wheels, are they strong enough, do they bend?


Pictures don't do it justice. The arms are plenty strong enough; no bending.
Bikes can be loaded on and the rack then tilted down away from the car to access the trunk/hatch. Even with the bike/rack at a 45 degree angle, the bikes are held securely.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

They have some kind of unconditional money back guarantee. Order it out and see for yourself. Don't like it? Send it back.

Trust me on this: You won't be sending it back. You'll like it.


J.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Thanks once again. 



JohnJ80 said:


> They have some kind of unconditional money back guarantee. Order it out and see for yourself. Don't like it? Send it back.
> 
> Trust me on this: You won't be sending it back. You'll like it.


That shows that they trust their product, but I have to make sure since I'm in South America and sending it back won't be easy.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Good point.

J.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

Skylined said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> What about the arms that secure the wheels, are they strong enough, do they bend?


No worries... the 1Up is solid. You can use it to launch the Space Shuttle in a pinch. IMO, even more solid than a Thule T2, and weighs less.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Plus, it is easily rebuildable. Should something fail for some reason, just bolt a new piece on. No prob


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Of course that price is the biggest drawback, but I hope this one lasts forever (or almost forever). 

I have a Saris Bones 3 that I bought 5 years ago and it takes a lot of time to put it on the car, and then the bikes (they are FS, so I also have to use those funny bars that holds the bikes from the seatposts and stem).


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## cary724 (Jan 12, 2011)

Looking to get a new rack and leaning towards the 1up. I see now they are powder coated, no big deal, but why charge more for black if silver is also powder coated? I've had a lot of motorcycle parts powder coated, the process and cost is the same regardless of color. Or is the silver still anodized? Anyone have anodized original and add a PC add on? First hand opinion on what finished is preferred? If silver is ano, I'm leaning towards that. Thanks


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## Naturally Aspirated (Aug 17, 2011)




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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

cary724 said:


> Looking to get a new rack and leaning towards the 1up. I see now they are powder coated, no big deal, but why charge more for black if silver is also powder coated? I've had a lot of motorcycle parts powder coated, the process and cost is the same regardless of color. Or is the silver still anodized? Anyone have anodized original and add a PC add on? First hand opinion on what finished is preferred? If silver is ano, I'm leaning towards that. Thanks


I have the newer rack and there powder coated. They have the serrated arms which I thought is great. But the paint is slowly coming off. But as I mention before, it's no biggie


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## cary724 (Jan 12, 2011)

Do you have black or silver? Is silver also powdercoated?


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

cary724 said:


> Looking to get a new rack and leaning towards the 1up. I see now they are powder coated, no big deal, but why charge more for black if silver is also powder coated? I've had a lot of motorcycle parts powder coated, the process and cost is the same regardless of color. Or is the silver still anodized? Anyone have anodized original and add a PC add on? First hand opinion on what finished is preferred? If silver is ano, I'm leaning towards that. Thanks


The only part that is powder coated is the actual wheel tray (both silver and black now painted there). The rest of the rack is still anodized, so I guess the black still involves a lot of black anodization, this the higher cost.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## cary724 (Jan 12, 2011)

Makes sense, thanks for the answer.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

cary724 said:


> Is silver also powdercoated?


Yes, now they are.


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## BigEarn86 (Jan 13, 2012)

*Detailed Pics*

To all: I just received my rack. I wanted to share with you a "mini" un-boxing with pics. It took one week from the day I ordered to the day it arrived. Please see below.





Now the damaged.




This is nothing I am worried about because it might as well be wear and tear. I will re-post after first use which will be a 6.4 hour trip to MD! Let's hope this sucker works.


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## Coal-Cracker (May 4, 2010)

I was up in the air between 1Up's rack and the Kuat Sherpa. While I'm sure I would have been more than satisfied with either decision, this thread sealed the deal for me. 

I just received my quick rack in the mail today and photos really don't do this thing justice. Coming from a machinist's (aerospace industry) perspective, the craftsmanship and ingenuity is really above and beyond the rack's intended task (...and yes, that is a compliment.)


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## Subaru&mutt (Oct 2, 2013)

1up: One wheel latch thingy sticks, should i grease it? My 1up stays on the vehicle almost all the time. Happy with it so far.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Subaru&mutt said:


> 1up: One wheel latch thingy sticks, should i grease it? My 1up stays on the vehicle almost all the time. Happy with it so far.


Have the arm folded down (closed) and without lifting the latch, pull up hard on the arm. Let go and repeat a few times. That resets the latch mechanism. See if that fixes your sticking problem. (Been described by others in the thread and worked for many people)

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Or, if it sticks when there is a bike in it, when you take the bike out, push inwards on the arm as you release the latch. Depending on how hard you pushed the arms against the tires, there can be significant force against the latch mechanism.

J.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Hose it out. Mine stays on too, and I drive a lot of dusty roads. After a while it wants to bind when opening the arms. Just a rinse works for me. Be careful lubing it. You don't want to a) attract dirt or b) lose the friction that holds the arms in place.


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## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

I just got mine last week and I love it! I had a few questions. How tight do you guys clamp down on the tires? I've been clamping them down pretty tight, I don't think I could get the arms much tighter. Also, I've read some movement is normal I just don't know if what I'm seeing is normal or excessive. When I'm looking at the bike in the rear-view mirror it seems to want to "twist" up and down, especially the tires if that makes sense. Is this normal? I have scraped it coming out of my driveway a few times which kind of sucks but I think I have that figured out as well.


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## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

One more question, sorry. What is everyone using to lock their bike up while on their racks? 

Thanks again.


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## Yama Arashi (Jul 22, 2013)

With the way the tires sit in the tray, a little bit of turning back and forth at the headtube is normal.

I push the arms down with moderate force, just to where they stop when they contact the tires, and then one more click in. I usually hold/support the frame of the bike for the last click, so all the torque isn't being delivered to the hitch insert. Have the spindle wedged up against the tread knob of the tire.

I don't think you really need to 'crank' them down, but you're fine either way. The bike isn't going anywhere.

As for a lock, I use a 5" Kryptonite U-lock that I run through the side hitch loop and around the main body of the 1Up - the section that houses the security/hex key bolt. I use a 15 foot steel braided vinyl coated cable with loop ends, running it around the rack arms through the wheels and frame, and putting the loops around the U-lock arms. Routing it that way, the 15 foot cable is only a little too much for one bike, and perfect for two.

A U-lock through the wheels, around the tray or arms is better from a security standpoint. These are great as well: 1UPUSA.com :: Wheel Lock

I've scraped the U-lock backing down the driveway, but never the actual rack. Perhaps just because the U-lock hanging down got in the way.  You said you already have that figured out, but I just have to take it very slow and angle out.


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

OK, it looks like I have a worst case scenario - Wrangler JK Rubicon, stock hitch, two DH bikes (45 lb each). 

I really like the looks of the heavy duty 1Up, but I think I would have to run a hitch extender, which causes a lot of slop and negates the theft resistant part of the 1Up. 

I've been hunting around for a solution. Jeep forums suggest a new hitch with a built in extension for $400, which would make the whole deal over $1K. Sorry, ain't happening. 

I guess I am just going to have to accept the Thule T2 with extender option unless someone has a different solution. If I'm going to have to use an extender, I might as well spend $400+$30 for the extender and accept the wobble. 

Or am I missing something and 1up offers an extra long 2" hitch bar to clear a Wangler spare? I can't believe with (most) Jeep owner's not flinching at spending big bucks on their rigs and literally millions of them on the road (plus other SUV's with rear mounted spares and clearance issues) that no manufacturer has managed to come up with a rack for a vehicle with a rear mounted spare. 

Before anyone chimes in with the "mount it on the spare tire" suggestion, two 45 lb bikes on a stock Wrangler spare mount will pretty much rip the mount off the vehicle if you go on even a mildly bumpy road.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

If your wheels are stock then you can get a decent hitch w/built in extension for about $140. Super easy to install yourself. You could probably sell the stock one for about $75. I went with this one on my 12 JKU and I have no problem at all with clearance. I've had 4 DH bikes on it w/o worries.

Hidden Hitch 87424 - Hidden Hitch Class III 2" Receiver Hitch for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

I guess, too... it depends on the hitch/spare tire setup. Here's my rack on a rented RV w/rear spare. Have you tried the Jeep? (or is it obviously not going to work?)


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

A T2 rack + extender = 2 area of slop = extreme slop. 1 Up USA + extender = 1 area of slop, therefore is better. 

Get a locking hitch pin for the extender and leave it on full time. Then you can take the 1 Up rack on and off at will with the security wrench.
Some day you may end up with something else besides the Wrangler, at which point you'll really wish you had gone with the 1 Up rack.

Regarding the extender and slop: I've never used an extender, so I don't know if it is possible, but if you can indeed leave it in full time, I wonder whether you could put a little duct tape or something else around the extender to create greater contrast and reduce slop. It would make it a pain to put on and off, but if it was a one-time affair and left on long-term, it would be worth it.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

albertdc reminded me of what I use on my ball hitch receiver when I connect my trailer... Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories ... another option for you to reduce slop.


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## slow450 (Jun 19, 2009)

Bolt on the extension to take the slop out and slow down the thefts. Check, I think some extensions come with a bolt up and not a hitch pin.
Slow


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

seano said:


> I guess, too... it depends on the hitch/spare tire setup. Here's my rack on a rented RV w/rear spare. Have you tried the Jeep? (or is it obviously not going to work?)
> View attachment 863832


A lot more clearance is required with a Wrangler.


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

seano said:


> albertdc reminded me of what I use on my ball hitch receiver when I connect my trailer... Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories ... another option for you to reduce slop.


That looks good. I could put a locking pin in the extender, then use that Hitch Vise to keep the extender from wobbling.

I still can't believe that not a single rack manufacturer makes a single hitch rack that works on a completely stock Wrangler without stuff like this.


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## dirtyoffroad (Apr 8, 2008)

I'm using no extension here.


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

dirtyoffroad said:


> I'm using no extension here.


With the stock hitch? I just received an email from 1up saying that with the stock receiver on a Wrangler, and extension is required, and they sell them on their website.


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

I just realized the Hitch Vise isn't going to work to stabilize an extender. It is sized to fit around the 2" part of the ball mount, but on an extender the 2" part is fully inserted into the receiver.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

Honkinunit... same boat here. Had a Küat NV (great rack, but the extension and the overhang were too much for me). The 1up is a very nice rack and I'd love to have one, but I'd run into same issue as the NV. I went with North Shore Rack's NSR-4...


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

Bacons said:


> Honkinunit... same boat here. Had a Küat NV (great rack, but the extension and the overhang were too much for me). The 1up is a very nice rack and I'd love to have one, but I'd run into same issue as the NV. I went with North Shore Rack's NSR-4...


That rack looks cool, but I'm wondering if the rig would fit into the standard garage door? It looks doubtful. If it won't fit into the garage, then it has the same major drawback as a roof rack - I killed a bike once with a roof rack, and as stupid as you feel when you do that, you know it happens every single day. I would space out and either try a parking garage or my own garage - guaranteed.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

With bikes on, no. Load/Unload outside your garage. 
The rack does fold into a compact package when not in use (I leave it on year-round). And unfolded, sans bikes, it does just clear my garage.


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

I was in the same boat regarding the spare tire... I did find thru bolt options that both lock the hitch extender and eliminate wobble thru the bolt system with lock on the end. I think etrailer had them. I also discovered that w/ rack down, there was no interference at stock, but I could not fold the 1-up up at 90 degrees. so if you leave rack down all the time on the jeep - you might be ok. 

Dear 1-up if you are reading this... please add an option to purchase LONGER 2" hitch bars - while you would not sell tons - I would have payed extra and I bet Honkinunit would too for an extra 6" of 2" hitch.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

jdkobe said:


> Dear 1-up if you are reading this... please add an option to purchase LONGER 2" hitch bars - while you would not sell tons - I would have payed extra and I bet Honkinunit would too for an extra 6" of 2" hitch.


I don't know how much they follow this thread, but they gave always been very responsive to me both via email and phone calls. I would contact them with that suggestion. That way if it is not possible on their end, they'll tell you why. If it is possible, maybe you'll get them to do it. The great thing about them being a smaller U.S. company is that there is a chance that your suggestion will actually be heard and implemented. :thumbup:

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## dirtyoffroad (Apr 8, 2008)

honkinunit said:


> With the stock hitch? I just received an email from 1up saying that with the stock receiver on a Wrangler, and extension is required, and they sell them on their website.


sorry,my bad,aftermarket hitch.


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## eddjmemg (Apr 12, 2013)

curtisp said:


> I forgot to take a pic with the add-on...even with the add-on and the rack in the up position...the plate is not blocked.
> 
> Great rack...worth the price.


Looks great on the Jetta. I got a black TDI and will be getting a 2 bike rack. But I need to be able to throw it on a 2" on my Touareg. Saw they have adapters so I'm in luck. Any issues so far? Pretty happy?


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

I too am very happy with the new rack. Working with 1up was a pleasure and I love the new functionality of the 1, 2 or 3 racks. I got the 2" receiver version -

But - caution - powder coat is not as bomb proof as I would have loved - I already chipped it from a) gently setting a bike with studs in rack - not even transporting it and b) cutting the edge of a sticker I put on the rack with a blade. Otherwise - A+++


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## eddjmemg (Apr 12, 2013)

jdkobe said:


> View attachment 872282
> 
> I too am very happy with the new rack. Working with 1up was a pleasure and I love the new functionality of the 1, 2 or 3 racks. I got the 2" receiver version -
> 
> But - caution - powder coat is not as bomb proof as I would have loved - I already chipped it from a) gently setting a bike with studs in rack - not even transporting it and b) cutting the edge of a sticker I put on the rack with a blade. Otherwise - A+++


Looks great in black with that tennis yellow Bronson! I got the same exact bike minus the added graphics. Where did you find a 2" receiver for your Subaru? I got a VW Jetta n would prefer a 2".

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JAvendan (Jan 27, 2013)

eddjmemg said:


> Looks great in black with that tennis yellow Bronson! I got the same exact bike minus the added graphics. Where did you find a 2" receiver for your Subaru? I got a VW Jetta n would prefer a 2".
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


check out etrailer.com and uhaul.

there are aftermarket hitch companies that make 2" hitches for cars that only have 1.25" from the factory.

there are also install vids on youtube... search.

joel


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## grumpydok (Sep 9, 2013)

Any issues with 27.5? I know it's meant to adjust to most wheel sizes, BUT I had an Inno Tire Hold rack, similar mechanism, that I loved, but it did NOT hold my new 27.5 very well. I felt like it held the tires too low, and that the entire bike could just pop up and out of it. 26 and 29 were fine, though, because they had specific settings. 

I've searched through this thread, but didn't find any mention of success/failure with 27.5". Anyone? Thanks.


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

I'm pretty sure i'm the only subaru owner in the US with this hitch.. it's from australia made by Reese... here are my install pics... I wanted the hitch to be 'in' the bumper that then below it. Outback Hitch Install Photos by jdkobe | Photobucket


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## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

grumpydok said:


> Any issues with 27.5? I know it's meant to adjust to most wheel sizes, BUT I had an Inno Tire Hold rack, similar mechanism, that I loved, but it did NOT hold my new 27.5 very well. I felt like it held the tires too low, and that the entire bike could just pop up and out of it. 26 and 29 were fine, though, because they had specific settings.
> 
> I've searched through this thread, but didn't find any mention of success/failure with 27.5". Anyone? Thanks.


I don't have a 27.5" but I would imagine it wouldn't be a problem. You can adjust where the arm engages the tire. I believe the 1UP's work with 16" bikes so a 27.5" shouldn't be a problem.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

I have a 27.5 and just like the 26 or 29r there is no need to adjust anything. Just park the bike in the tray and close the arms on the wheels..


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

grumpydok said:


> Any issues with 27.5? I know it's meant to adjust to most wheel sizes, BUT I had an Inno Tire Hold rack, similar mechanism, that I loved, but it did NOT hold my new 27.5 very well. I felt like it held the tires too low, and that the entire bike could just pop up and out of it. 26 and 29 were fine, though, because they had specific settings.


It doesn't work that way. The arms pivot in from the outside, and they stop when you stop pushing them. The contact point will vary depending on the wheel size, tire size, wheelbase, and where you set the bike in the tray (when I'm carrying two, they're offset slightly). I've carried 29ers, 650bs, and 26ers ranging from FR to DJ bikes, with no problem.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

evasive said:


> It doesn't work that way. The arms pivot in from the outside, and they stop when you stop pushing them. The contact point will vary depending on the wheel size, tire size, wheelbase, and where you set the bike in the tray (when I'm carrying two, they're offset slightly). I've carried 29ers, 650bs, and 26ers ranging from FR to DJ bikes, with no problem.


Just to expand on that, for anyone reading the thread that wants to put a 20" wheel kid bike on there, it works but you will have to adjust the roller that contacts the tire down a few holes. That requires a wrench. But for 26" through 29", no adjustments are needed.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

albertdc said:


> Just to expand on that, for anyone reading the thread that wants to put a 20" wheel kid bike on there, it works but you will have to adjust the roller that contacts the tire down a few holes. That requires a wrench. But for 26" through 29", no adjustments are needed.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


Unless you have a flat 26" tire and 200mm rotors, the arms hit the rotor and you have to move the roller down.


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## jrands (May 18, 2011)

This is interesting. I just checked the 1up site again and the description for the trays (both silver and black) no longer mentions anything about powder-coated trays. I could sworn this detail was included in the product description just a couple months ago. Wonder if this means the trays are back to being anodized.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

jrands said:


> This is interesting. I just checked the 1up site again and the description for the trays (both silver and black) no longer mentions anything about powder-coated trays. I could sworn this detail was included in the product description just a couple months ago. Wonder if this means the trays are back to being anodized.


You got me excited. I emailed them and they said the trays are still powder coated and always will be - there is no plan to going back to anodizing the trays. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## cactusjk (Jun 26, 2011)

Just ordered a single Black. Guess I will have to live with the powder coating.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

cactusjk said:


> Just ordered a single Black. Glad to hear they are still powder coated!


Ummm, really? Why? Most of us have strongly preferred the anodized finish - it was bullet-proof. The powder coating is much easier to scratch and flake off.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## cactusjk (Jun 26, 2011)

Good point. I guess anodized would be better and I am a few years late!



albertdc said:


> Ummm, really? Why? Most of us have strongly preferred the anodized finish - it was bullet-proof. The powder coating is much easier to scratch and flake off.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## jrands (May 18, 2011)

albertdc said:


> You got me excited. I emailed them and they said the trays are still powder coated and always will be - there is no plan to going back to anodizing the trays.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


:`(


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## tietherope (Sep 10, 2013)

Has anyone purchased one for shipping to Canada? I'm looking to see what the final charges from UPS were. 

There will not be any duty on a made in U.S.A. product and I expect to pay taxes, but what about brokerage fees? The shipping is $63 for a single or $98 for the double, so brokerage on top would be a deal killer for me. Some UPS services include these fees in the price, but not sure what they do here. Thanks!


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## MustG0Faster (Aug 27, 2012)

tietherope said:


> Has anyone purchased one for shipping to Canada? I'm looking to see what the final charges from UPS were.
> 
> There will not be any duty on a made in U.S.A. product and I expect to pay taxes, but what about brokerage fees? The shipping is $63 for a single or $98 for the double, so brokerage on top would be a deal killer for me. Some UPS services include these fees in the price, but not sure what they do here. Thanks!


I purchased the 1up + 1 add on and this is what I paid to have it all shipped to Canada:

$73.40 Shipping & Handling
$59.82 Taxes (HST)
$25.00 Third Party Customs Broker

UPS, FedEx, etc... Ground shipments all charge HIGH brokerage fees (they waive it if you choose their more expensive air service).

USPS doesn't charge any brokerage fee for ground shipments, but, 1up's shipping policy is to use UPS so that isn't an option in this case.

Either clear it yourself (which involves going to the airport and filling out paperwork or have a third party brokerage clear it for you for one third the cost of having UPS do it)


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## tietherope (Sep 10, 2013)

MustG0Faster said:


> I purchased the 1up + 1 add on and this is what I paid to have it all shipped to Canada:
> 
> $73.40 Shipping & Handling
> $59.82 Taxes (HST)
> ...


Thank you for your response. I'm sending you a PM right now for a bit of further help if you can when you have a minute.


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## Drkangel (Mar 10, 2014)

Hey bud I live in Ottawa and I have all my US purchases to the UPS Store in Ogdensburg and I end up getting free shipping depending the supplier and when I go over through Canadian customs all I pay is HST. No brokerage fees. Since I don't your location but if you live close to the US border then I would suggest that you have it shipped to your closest UPS Store. I just joined this forum because I am in the market to purchase a 2 bike hitch mount rack and I am very interested in this One Up rack.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

I have a 1up rack incoming, so this morning I had a trailer hitch installed at a local UHaul, and they hitched me with this beauty. Back to the UHaul this POS goes...


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Finally part of the cool kids club!


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## pacmann33 (Jun 27, 2013)

Nice! My black ano arrives tomorrow. I got the heavy duty 2 inch single bike quick rack. 

I will order one heavy duty bike add on later... to spread out the pain! 300$ USD just for one add on, plus shipping and duty bringing it into Canada LOL

As far as I'm concerned... 1 UP racks are the only way to go. I have searched for hours and hours, investigated all other options in person... and having OCD, this is how I would have built a rack. 

Can't wait to get mine!


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## pacmann33 (Jun 27, 2013)

Wow, I just read a few pages of this thread and now understand that I was reading old reviews where the black was still anodized. 

I wouldn't have paid all of that extra dough if I knew I was just getting powder coated aluminum... That is NEVER durable. 

Sucks on such an expensive investment that I thought about for months...

I suck!


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

cycljunkie said:


> Finally part of the cool kids club!
> View attachment 878490


Yeah, you betcha.

As the newest member of the cool kid's club, it's your job to host a ride and bring beer to show off your new rack.

I look forward to it! :thumbsup:

Heya, serious question: Is the new silver rack anodized or powder coated?


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Ano!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Powder coated


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Hmmm, looks ano to me but what do I know!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Oops, meant to attach pic...









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

I got mine early of last year and the paint on my trays are flaking
It's no biggie but If they recently switched to anodize, that's even better as I plan to 
Add two more trays this year


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Are you talking silver or black?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Having had one of these racks for a few years and following this thread, let me help clarify some confusion:
The parts that are visible in the closeup picture above posted by cycljunkie are ano, whether silver or black. The part that is powdercoated is the actual wheel tray that the tires are resting on. Those used to be anodized by 1UP changed to powdercoating last year. As of a few weeks ago when i contacted them, they said they are still powdercoated and have no plans to return to anodizing for the wheel trays. That is powdercoated for both silver and black racks. The remainder of the rack will remain anodized according to their email....

I had originally bought a 2-bike rack when everything was anodized. I held off on 2 additions because my boys were little so I figured I'd delay the cost. I ended up buying the 2 add-ons this winter and was bummed out that I had waited - should have gotten everything all at once. I would imagine that the paint flaking a little from the silver color, exposing aluminum below, would be less noticeable than the paint flaking from a black rack, exposing shiny silver beneath.


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## tietherope (Sep 10, 2013)

Just installed my hitch and rack, can't wait to try it out once it's warm enough. Don't mind the old bike on there for testing.


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## Drkangel (Mar 10, 2014)

tietherope said:


> Just installed my hitch and rack, can't wait to try it out once it's warm enough. Don't mind the old bike on there for testing.
> 
> View attachment 878936


Nice pic, looks good I will be ordering my sometime this week... Thank you..


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

I got mine last week, but haven't put it together yet because my car is in the body shop from an unfortunate roof rack incident.


Sent from my iPad while drinking the kool aid.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Add me to the list. This is a fantastic bike rack. Incredibly simple yet strong. I have always had Thule racks and thought they were OK but this rack is on a different level. In the pictures it looks cobbled together and actually looks a little cheap. However, in person, it is a different beast. Solid and very well put together. An amazing piece of kit.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I just got the four bike setup. It's been raining all weekend so haven't had a chance to use it yet. Also got spacer kits to accommodate fatbikes. It's an amazing piece of equipment. I have not seen any other rack come close to the quality and weight rating of 1UP USA.


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## michaeldorian (Nov 17, 2006)

Bearhunter said:


> I just got the four bike setup. It's been raining all weekend so haven't had a chance to use it yet. Also got spacer kits to accommodate fatbikes. It's an amazing piece of equipment. I have not seen any other rack come close to the quality and weight rating of 1UP USA.


Totally. I want to buy a set just to keep just in case 1UP USA isn't around in the future.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Ha...I know exactly what you mean. It really is that good!


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Has anyone mounted a 1UP Roof Tray to the bed rail of their truck? I'm really interested doing something like this for a fifth bike, so it leaves the bed free.

Similar to this product from softopper.com except directly on the bed rail.










Here is the mounts for the 1UP tray.


















* pics taken from Google.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Vespasianus said:


> Add me to the list. This is a fantastic bike rack. Incredibly simple yet strong. I have always had Thule racks and thought they were OK but this rack is on a different level. In the pictures it looks cobbled together and actually looks a little cheap. However, in person, it is a different beast. Solid and very well put together. An amazing piece of kit.


And just like that I jinxed myself. One weekend in the rain and now my left arm (driver side) is frozen. No amount of jiggling or wiggling will allow the arm to move. Am I missing something here?


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Vespasianus said:


> And just like that I jinxed myself. One weekend in the rain and now my left arm (driver side) is frozen. No amount of jiggling or wiggling will allow the arm to move. Am I missing something here?


Are you lifting the latch? If you are and it's still not working, I think I read that if you give it a tug (without lifting the latch) it re-centers the locking mechanism. Then lift the latch and it won't stick.

...or is it just frozen


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Or hose it out; maybe some grit got washed into it.


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## Hiebs915 (Sep 14, 2012)

Are there extensions for 29ers?

And, since when did they cut grooves where the red latch is on the trays? Mine is just smooth...


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

29ers fit without extensions. The grooves were needed due to some people having the rack loosen during transport. A friction interface is not the way to go when securing $$$ bikes. The grooves are a more positive lock interface and unlikely to ever loosen.


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Mine originally came with the smooth sliders but ended up sliding on their own. They were replaced with the grooved version and that issue is gone.


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## Hiebs915 (Sep 14, 2012)

sgtjim57 said:


> Mine originally came with the smooth sliders but ended up sliding on their own. They were replaced with the grooved version and that issue is gone.


So if I have the smooth version do I get a free replacement or?


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Not sure. I wrote the company when mine failed. It would no longer secure my bike so I called them and emailed pics. they sent me new sliders and bolts within a week. Easily replaced and it functions perfectly once again. But it is loud now with the detentes.


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## strohpbs (Oct 7, 2012)

Saw a post way back that mentioned 1up willing to add a dedicated 2" hitch to the standard single rack for an extra fee. Can anyone confirm this. Would be best of both worlds in my opinion. Keep single rack on the car all the time with option of adding 3 more singles for 4 total.

They have the super duty rack in single with 2" but that seems like over kill.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

The standard single rack comes with an adapter to fit a 2" hitch. You can also only put three bikes on a standard rack, the single rack plus two add ons. The only way to get four racks is to buy the two bike heavy duty rack and add two additional trays.


Sent from my iPad while drinking the kool aid.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

strohpbs said:


> Saw a post way back that mentioned 1up willing to add a dedicated 2" hitch to the standard single rack for an extra fee. Can anyone confirm this. Would be best of both worlds in my opinion. Keep single rack on the car all the time with option of adding 3 more singles for 4 total.
> 
> They have the super duty rack in single with 2" but that seems like over kill.


They told me they don't want us adding 3 add-ons - they are worried that the bolts and interface between the rack and first add-on would fail with the weight of 3 add-ons and bikes hanging off of them. That wouldn't be fixed by the larger hitch...

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I'd just do a heavy duty double and add two singles as required.


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## strohpbs (Oct 7, 2012)

Interesting. Never heard anyone mention concern over the "bolts" with three add ons before. I understand I can do a double but I don't want to constantly lower my rack every time I need to open the hatch. Don't have to do that with a single.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

strohpbs said:


> Interesting. Never heard anyone mention concern over the "bolts" with three add ons before. I understand I can do a double but I don't want to constantly lower my rack every time I need to open the hatch. Don't have to do that with a single.


What vehicle do you have? Have you measured a double rack? On my Audi Q7 SUV, I can have the double rack vertical and still open my hatch. There is a minimum insertion for the hitch. I measured that and placed a line on the hitch part of the rack. I can go in about an 1/8" beyond that and still open my hatch. If I go in any deeper, it would then interfere. So it works out perfectly. Depending on your car, you may be able to do the same. Had I gone with a Yakima or Thule rack, there is no way I would be able to open the hatch - the 1UP is much more compact.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I can also open my hatch on a Subaru XV with the heavy duty double 1 up.


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## strohpbs (Oct 7, 2012)

Anyone have a subaru outback and the 2 bike. Would like to know if you can still open the hatch with the rack in the vertical position


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

Well that make me feel kind-of stupid. I have never even tried that with my Q5. Excuse me while I run out to the garage.


albertdc said:


> What vehicle do you have? Have you measured a double rack? On my Audi Q7 SUV, I can have the double rack vertical and still open my hatch. There is a minimum insertion for the hitch. I measured that and placed a line on the hitch part of the rack. I can go in about an 1/8" beyond that and still open my hatch. If I go in any deeper, it would then interfere. So it works out perfectly. Depending on your car, you may be able to do the same. Had I gone with a Yakima or Thule rack, there is no way I would be able to open the hatch - the 1UP is much more compact.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Bailey44 said:


> Well that make me feel kind-of stupid. I have never even tried that with my Q5. Excuse me while I run out to the garage.


Did you get lost?


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

I've been sitting here hitting refresh for the last 2 hours.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

I was finally able to get a hitch installed on my car today. I mounted up the rack I bought last month and test fit my bikes.

My ROS 9.















My road bike too. Really the whole reason I bought the rack. I'm driving to DC from NC for a Wounded Warrior Project Soldier Ride, 59 miles over three days of riding.








This rack really is easy to use. It took me all of 3 minutes to mount it on the car, only because I had to unfold the arms. It literally took 30 secs to mount a bike, and 30 secs to take it off the car. It really is every thing people say it is. I have a second tray to mount for my son's bike, I was just excited to try it out today.

Sent from a telecommunication device with a touch screen keyboard.


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## Tweakophyte (Sep 3, 2013)

Any pics of this mounted on a whispbar?

Thanks


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

I have a rally big garage...

It didn't work for mine. With the rack inserted where it is 1/8 inch from my bumper, when it's folded up, the retention ball is just 2 inches into the receiver. 1up says 2 inches should be the minimum insertion point.


Silentfoe said:


> Did you get lost?


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## Tweakophyte (Sep 3, 2013)

Tweakophyte said:


> Any pics of this mounted on a whispbar?
> 
> Thanks


Bump... pics, please.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I would imagine it would look just like any other roof mounted system?

http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/review-1up-usa-fat-bike-compatible-quik-rack-roof-tray/

How it is attached (image from google)


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## Doba (Nov 29, 2008)

Is there anywhere else that sells this rack besides their site? I'm in the military and stationed in Italy. They will not ship to my APO box.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Not that I'm aware of. They only do direct sales. You could have a friend or family member buy it for you in the states and then ship it forward to you.


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## I'm suba (Aug 24, 2012)

Just curious if anyone locks their bikes. We all know bike thefts can happen anywhere.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

askibum02 said:


> I got mine last week, but haven't put it together yet because my car is in the body shop from an unfortunate roof rack incident.
> 
> Sent from my iPad while drinking the kool aid.


Hmmmmm..... connection, maybe?


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

pimpbot said:


> Hmmmmm..... connection, maybe?


What gave you that idea?😉


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

askibum02 said:


> What gave you that idea?😉


I feel your pain. Been there. It's a bad moment.

J.


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## MustG0Faster (Aug 27, 2012)

Since the bikes block the brake and turn signals on some cars, has anyone installed trailer lights on their rack?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

No. And I've got over 12,000 miles on the rack with no issues.

It doesn't block all the lights or even completely block any of them. 

Not a bad idea though. I have thought about it since my wife's SUV with the rack also has a backup sensor that is turned off automatically when you plug in the trailer hitch. Instead of just putting resistors in there to mimic the bulb filaments, might as well have the brake lights, I guess. Would be easy to do.

J.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Yeah it doesn't block mine at all, but I'm in a truck. The only issue is blocking the license plate. I know 1UP sells a plate holder, but it would be a PITA to move the plate back and forth (depending if the rack was up or down).


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

I've got a quick question. I ordered my rack a couple days ago so I'm still waiting for it. I've got to buy a new torque wrench as my current ones aren't cutting it for the hitch install on my car. So I'm headed to Home Depot to pick up a torque wrench and I figure I'll get whatever tools I need to adjust the rack for different wheel sizes ( for when I carry my kids bikes) so I can keep them in the car and I won't have to dig into my toolbox each time I need to adjust it.

What tools do I need to adjust the rack for different tire sizes? I think someone mentioned earlier in the thread that they use a 1/2" ratcheting combo wrench for it but will I need two 1/2" wrenches or does the bolt use an Allen wrench (I can't tell from the photos)?


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## Yama Arashi (Jul 22, 2013)

QQQ99999 said:


> What tools do I need to adjust the rack for different tire sizes? I think someone mentioned earlier in the thread that they use a 1/2" ratcheting combo wrench for it but will I need two 1/2" wrenches or does the bolt use an Allen wrench (I can't tell from the photos)?


All you need is the socket/wrench for the actual nut.

The head of the bolt sits into a machined recess on the arms to keep it from turning.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

Perfect. Thanks for the clarification.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Yeah it's really easy. If you are just adjusting for different tire sizes/height (as in for a kids bike) you don't even need an Allen wrench. You just need a socket wrench. An Allen wrench is only needed when you are installing the fatbike/fat tire extensions (and that's only a one time deal. Once it's installed there is no further need for standard allen wrenches). Your rack will come with a special Allen wrench that you will use to mount the rack to your hitch.

Just a tip when you are adjusting for bikes. Put the heaviest bike on first, followed by the next, etc. What I do is put the first bike as far to one side of the rack as I can, then I face the second bike the opposite way and see how far to the opposite side I need to go in order for the handlebars to clear. If you have more than two bikes you will also need to take into consideration handlebar clearance of the second bike to the third bike (especially if the second bike is a kids bike).

I know that was somewhat confusing, but you will get it when you test fit all your bikes.

Here is a pic of mine. You will note that the second bike is a kids bike because it is heavier than the third.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

*Fit On Honda Odyssey*

OK, I just got my Heavy Duty 2-bike 1UpUSA rack (and two add-ons).

First I'll offer some information for anyone that is hoping to fit the rack onto a 2012 Honda Odyssey. It fits perfectly. I purchased the Curt 13068 2" (Class 3) hitch from etrailer.com because although it only attaches to the frame with 5 bolts rather than 6 on the 2" Hidden Hitch and 2" Draw-Tite hitches, the hitch is slightly closer the the edge of the rear bumper (but still recessed under the bumper) so I thought it would give me the best shot at being able to fold up the 1Up rack into the fully upright position. The install of the hitch was easy, sadly what took the longest was figuring out which direction the conical faced washers should face (yes, I am that clueless).

I measured the hitch and marked it 2" from the rearward edge of the retention ball (although 1Up has subsequently indicated to me via email that I should measure from the center of the retention ball so I could actually slide the rack about 3/8" more toward the rear of the car than I did). I inserted it into the receiver so that the rear edge of the retention ball was exactly 2" inside. It allows me to fold up the rack with about 1/8-1/4" to spare between the rack and the bumper (see photos). Also, my license plate is visible above the two-bike rack when folder up (and visible between the 2-bike rack and the first add-on when folded up). Overall perfect fit. Also, from the edge of the bumper to the rearmost part (the hinge) of the 1Up rack when folded up is approximately 7" so the rack only adds about 7" to the total length of the car (which should hold relatively true for all cars if it's folded up close to the bumper, depending on the shape of the bumper) for those hoping to leave the rack on the car all the time and still fit the vehicle into the garage. Hope this info helps someone.

I'll try and post my initial thoughts on the rack soon.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

Now onto my initial thoughts: the rack appears to be sturdily built but the powder coated trays seem to be the Achilles heel as far long-term appearance issues and I would think it would be far worse on the black color (one reason I decided to stick with silver). I had paint chipping off of multiple corners upon removal from the box and more paint chipped off (from the black "grip tape" near the center of the racks swell as from the movement of one of the levers) as I folded out the trays for use. The chipped paint was a disappointment but not surprising given similar issues noted by at least a couple others in this thread. Additionally, the release of the arms with the red levers wasn't as smooth as I had expected based on the rave reviews in this thread. And lastly, I definitely have some up/down movement in the rack. It's not between the rack and the hitch receiver or between the add ons and base rack - those connections are great with zero wobble (I'm very impressed with the ability of the retaining ball to eliminate wobble) but rather it is between the black pivot lock bar and the positional notches. It's as if those notches were cut slightly too big. The movement is reduced (though far from eliminated) by tightening the black knob to lock it into place. I had expected some movement in the bikes/rack but simply from flex in the aluminum and not from extra play in the pivot. I'm hopeful that this won't cause any issues over the long term.

Some might say I'm nitpicking with these issues and there is certainly some truth to that statement but I simply had VERY high expectations given the reviews on this thread combined with the high purchase price.

I needed a rack that 1)could hold up to 4 bikes 2)could hold bikes with 29" to 16" wheels (12" would have been even better but the 1Ups 16" is better than the 20" minimum of the Kuat NV) 3) easy to remove 4) folds to small size for store 5)able to carry a bike with a disc wheel on it (this caused issues with Kuat NV and Thule T2) 6) wouldn't scratch/damage bikes directly or indirectly (between bikes) 7) would last a long time. I believe The 1UpUSA Quik Rack fit my criteria better than and other rack on the market and I'm hopeful that will I get many years of good use out of this rack.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Very odd, 

I have the black version and have not noticed any chips on the powdercoating from folding/unfolding the trays. I have also had no issue with the release arms. Since there is tension on the arms, have you tried pushing them in towards the tire while lifting all the way up on the red lever? I also have not experienced any up/down movement, but do experience some sway (flex) when I have 3 Fatbikes and 1 regular bike on there (depending on my driving).


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

The tip above is spot on - when you lift the red lever, be very mindful that you are not pulling it away from the tray (talking in the horizontal plane here). If anything, direct it slightly towards the tray when pulling up. You will find the sweet spot with some experimentation.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

BearHunter I'm glad your finish seems to be holding up better than mine did during shipping and initial set up. Sorry but I should have made more clear what I was referring to when I mentioned the issue with the red release levers. I was actually referencing releasing the arms from the folded down position (opening them for use from storage) rather than from releasing them while under load while holding a bike.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks Albertdc, I'll play with red lever to see if I can get it to open the arms more smoothly.


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## Tweakophyte (Sep 3, 2013)

Has anyone ever painted the stock rack? I want black to contrast with my white car, but don't want to pay extra (plus they are back-ordered).


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

Tweakophyte said:


> Has anyone ever painted the stock rack? I want black to contrast with my white car, but don't want to pay extra (plus they are back-ordered).


I've not done it, but I don't think that would work out too well. I think to really do it right, you'd need to take the rack apart which would be a pain. I agonized over this and ended up getting silver. Although I do think black would look better on my truck, I must say the silver looks better in person than in pictures. It emphasises the machined aluminum construction. It was a tough call, but the extra $130 helped me make the decision.

Something else I considered is that I'm leaving the rack on my vehicle most of the time, and I thought the black might show more dirt and be harder to wash in the nooks and crannies.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

I have a case of the powder coat peeling on one of the trays where it touches the blue lock lever, only after after a half dozen on uses. Also, one of the red levers makes it hard to move the arm in either direction, it feels like it is dragging and chewing on the serrated rail all the time, letting me only close it tooth-by-tooth. Luckily the other side is smooth, otherwise I would not be able to mount a bike easily. Not a big deal but still a bit disappointing.


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## mikey1299 (May 31, 2011)

Looking at these racks but am looking for some help. I want to be able to carry 4 bikes on a 2" hitch but also be able to use 2 of the racks on the roof of my other car. Is this possible? What parts do I need to purchase?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

mikey1299 said:


> Looking at these racks but am looking for some help. I want to be able to carry 4 bikes on a 2" hitch but also be able to use 2 of the racks on the roof of my other car. Is this possible? What parts do I need to purchase?


It isn't possible. The hitch rack mounts are not removeable. There are a few who have custom made racks using the roof mounts added to an ad-hoc hitch. I'm not aware of any rack that moves from hitch to roof.


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## seano (Jun 3, 2008)

mikey1299 said:


> Looking at these racks but am looking for some help. I want to be able to carry 4 bikes on a 2" hitch but also be able to use 2 of the racks on the roof of my other car. Is this possible? What parts do I need to purchase?


This is exactly what I do: 2 bike setup on a 2" hitch; 2 add-on aluminum brackets to make the hitch mount go to 3 or 4 bikes; 2 additional trays.

Most of the time I have two trays on the roof of my station wagon and the 2 bike setup lives on the SUV (great part here is that the rack folds up so close to the truck that you don't even notice it back there parking and the 2 bike setup doesn't block the licence plate). Since my wagon is black & black roof rails/bars, I got those trays in Black, so looks pretty stealth, too.

Call them directly and they will take care of you -

Also: trouble uploading photos this morning... shoot me a message and I can send pics if you want.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

albertdc said:


> The tip above is spot on - when you lift the red lever, be very mindful that you are not pulling it away from the tray (talking in the horizontal plane here). If anything, direct it slightly towards the tray when pulling up. You will find the sweet spot with some experimentation.


Last night I tried your tip and it made a big difference in raising the wheel arms. I had already read the comment posted earlier in the thread to make sure you only grasp the knob and not the knob and arm together. That helped, but your tip on pressing the lever in towards the tray a touch really made a difference in raising the arms. It was my only complaint with the 1up, the arms just didn't want to raise smoothly. Now all is good.


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## Wowsam (Jun 7, 2014)

Question for quick rack owners.
Is it feasible to add three heavy duty add ons to the super heavy duty 2" double quik rack to make a a fight five system? I know it's not recommended by the manufacturer but looking at the pictures it seems doable, particularly if one of the bikes is a kids bike.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Yeah I don't know. I know that the weight limit (in 4 bike configuration) is 50lbs per bike. I'd give them a call and see what they say. How much does the kids bike weigh? If you look at my pic above you will see that I have my kids bike mounted second, because it's actually heavier than my bike.

I have five in my family as well. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to mount one of the tray racks to the bed rail on my truck (thereby leaving the bed free).


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## Tweakophyte (Sep 3, 2013)

I just went to install my two roof rack trays to some whispbars. I have two issues. First is the carriage bolts do not go into the security nuts all the way. They consistently (two packages) only go about 2/3 of the way in, so I cannot tighten them properly.

Has anyone else run into this issue?

Second, I only got 3 out of the 4 nuts. The is very frustrating. I called and left a message. Will update when I hear more.


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## 29er_stu (Jun 8, 2014)

Hi, does anyone know the exact dimensions of the 1up rack for 2 bikes? Specifically need the distance from hitch to the outermost point of the rack. As in how far it will be protruding the car. I'm driving a Hyundai accent hatch and according to local laws I'm only allowed 33 inches beyond the back of my car. Would be good to know how wide it is also. Thanks in advance. 

Sent from my C6833 using Tapatalk


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

Wowsam said:


> Question for quick rack owners.
> Is it feasible to add three heavy duty add ons to the super heavy duty 2" double quik rack to make a a fight five system? I know it's not recommended by the manufacturer but looking at the pictures it seems doable, particularly if one of the bikes is a kids bike.


The reason they do not recommend it is because they are worried that the bolt that holds the first add on to the rack and not handle the load with out breaking.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

StiHacka said:


> I have a case of the powder coat peeling on one of the trays where it touches the blue lock lever, only after after a half dozen on uses. Also, one of the red levers makes it hard to move the arm in either direction, it feels like it is dragging and chewing on the serrated rail all the time, letting me only close it tooth-by-tooth. Luckily the other side is smooth, otherwise I would not be able to mount a bike easily. Not a big deal but still a bit disappointing.


I am glad to hear I am not the only one have that issue. On my add on one of the 2 have that problem. I hardly use the add on but still annoying. I would love to hear if anyone has figured out how to fix it.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

You could do it and I don't think there would be any problems EXCEPT it would be way, way out there. The thing is designed to hold 250 lbs of bikes and if you are way under that, then it's probably not going to fail from the weight. I do think the thing will be pretty active on the back with all that lever arm out there.

FWIW, the current 1.25" hitch version used to be a version that had a spacer on it so that it could be used with a 2" hitch as well. That's the version I have and it was rated for 4 bikes - and we've done that many times. It works fine but it does it a little bouncy with all of that out there and I think adding another bike (5) on there, would probably increase that significantly.

When I was talking through that with 1UpUSA at the time, they claimed that a 250lb person could stand on the 4th bike position and it would be fine and that that was the design criteria. So, if that same 250lbs was distributed inwards to the hitch, it would be dramatically less leverage on the hitch or any bolts in the rack.

So I don't think I'd recommend doing it. But you might try it and see how it works. The liability if it caused an accident by braking etc... would be on you and I wonder if your car insurance would back you up as a result. Given all those issues, you'd probably be better off just finding another way to carry that 5th bike.

J.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

Any of you having issues with install and removal of the rack? I've only had mine for a month or so and noticed that the tension 'ball' does not retract easily. I had to really work hard to get the rack into and out of the receiver.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Bacons said:


> Any of you having issues with install and removal of the rack? I've only had mine for a month or so and noticed that the tension 'ball' does not retract easily. I had to really work hard to get the rack into and out of the receiver.


I have a 2.5" hitch and have to use the 1up HD hitch adapter. I have not experienced that at all. Do you have the tension bolt loosened all the way before you put it on?


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## sgtjim57 (Aug 14, 2009)

Never have had the "problem".Have had mine for 5-6 years I believe. Never leave it on my vehicle either since it doubles as the dog walker and she's not going to jump over the rack when attached, hell, I bought a telescoping ramp so she doesn't have to jump at all anymore. $5000 in surgeries will make you do that.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

At first I thought I hadn't loosened the tension bolt enough... so I kept going until the bolt actually came out. Still the same issue. Only when I pressed firmly on the ball was I able to get the rack on the receiver. 2" standard hitch that I've used for years with Küat and North Shore, Thule, et. al. I'm surprised I am having the issue.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Hmmm....does the ball move freely after the tension bolt has been backed out?


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Bacons said:


> Any of you having issues with install and removal of the rack? I've only had mine for a month or so and noticed that the tension 'ball' does not retract easily. I had to really work hard to get the rack into and out of the receiver.


It does require some sort of lubricant... Steel ball, aluminum slot... Personally, I use dry lubes like graphite powder or one of my high end powders like Hex Boron Nitride.... Graphite will work, but so will a decent oil/grease. Just don't use WD 40.


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## DM14XV (Jun 24, 2014)

I made it through about 60 pages of this thread so far so forgive me if this has been addressed in some form already. First off, after reading through this thread and other reviews online, I am definitely going to go with a 1up rack. 

Second, we do not yet have a hitch installed for our cars, but are planning on having one installed on our 2014 Subaru Crosstrek later this week or early next week. Since we are not yet locked into a hitch size yet (i.e. we could install either a 1.25 or 2 inch hitch for the Crosstrek), I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation for which size hitch to go with. 

We will use the rack primarily to haul two bikes and for the foreseeable future, we will not have a need to add a 3rd or 4th add-on. We will, on occasion, just haul one bike around only when either me or my fiancé go biking by ourselves. In terms of hitch usage, right now I cannot envision using the hitch for anything other than the bike rack.

So essentially, there are 2 things I need to decide before purchasing a rack, one is the size of the hitch to have installed on our Crosstrek (1.25 or 2 inch) and also (which partially will depend on the answer to the first question), which would be better to purchase given our planned usage described above: a Single Bike Quik Rack plus 1 Quik Rack add-on (that would work on either a 1.25 or 2 inch hitch) OR the Double Bike Quik Rack (that would require a 2 inch hitch receiver). 

I realize there is a small difference in price which I am not concerned about. While I am sure either hitch size and/or Rack option will be great and work well, my primary goal is to go with the configuration that would be the most sturdy when driving on the highway/interstate or bumping roads/terrain but also give us the flexibility to use with only 1 bike at a time when we ride solo. Anyway, any suggestions would definitely be appreciated.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

There are some issues -

You may or may not able to install a 2" hitch on your car. Some cars are not designed for the tongue weight that a 2" hitch. So this may limit your choice. If you can put either on your car then it's going to be about how many bikes you an carry.

The 1.25" hitch version is spec'ed for 3 bikes while you can put 4 bikes on the 2" version, IIRC. The reason for this is that the 1.25" hitch specs (hitch, not rack) could be exceeded if the rack were loaded to it's maximum capacity. So, if you want 4 bikes, it's 2".

That all said, before this issue of the hitch capacity came up, 1UpUSA made one rack that could work in both 1.25" or 2" hitches and both could take 4 bikes. I have one, we use it in a 2" hitch and we've carried 4 bikes on it for thousands of miles and it works great. That was the rack specs when we bought it, it works for that and there have been no recall notices or advisories. I probably wouldn't put 4 bikes on a 1.25" hitch but I also don't think it would be a problem. The rack was designed for 250 lbs of bikes which is a number hard to achieve in actual practice. 4 road bikes, for example, would only be about 80lbs of bikes. 4 mtbs (not downhill bikes) would probably be about 120 lbs. 

If you only plan on using up to three bikes, then for sure get the single version. It's much easier to put them on in single sections and it's really nice to have only a one tray rack when you only need one tray. It's also just that much less to get in the way, to have someone inadvertently hit in the parking lot etc...

While I certainly can't recommend it (but it would work just fine), if you have light bikes I - personally - would have no probably taking the three bike rack and adding an extra add on kit on occasion...... 

J.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

Will the rack stay on the car all the time or will you be removing it?


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## jdkobe (Apr 24, 2006)

Here are my thoughts: I have an outback, and long ago i put a 2" hitch on it because of the extra cantilevered weight it could handle. In November, I purchased the 2" hitch 1up, but got the single quik rack plus 2 additional quick racks (for total of 3). I am VERY happy with this choice. 99% of the time, I just leave my single rack on the car. I like this because even when it is folded up, I can put stuff in the hatchback. you can not open the hatch with the 2 bike without folding it down at least a little.

My only wish is that 1up would make the bolt system stronger on racks (that allow you to connect them) so that I could go to 4 racks total, but as of now, I have only used the 3 bike a handful of times and wished I had 4 positions about 3 times.

And in Moab, the mt. biking mecca where everyone has seen everything, we were driving, just leaving town driving about 30 mph and this crazy guy behind me pulls up even with us on the right shoulder (doing 40) just to ask what type of awesome rack we had... it was crazy, but a nice compliment!


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## DM14XV (Jun 24, 2014)

QQQ99999 said:


> Will the rack stay on the car all the time or will you be removing it?


I would say we would probably leave it on 75% of the time or so. jdkobe raised an interesting point that I wasn't really considering about raising the rear door when 2 racks are on it without having to tilt the entire rack. I see myself riding solo a decent amount so going with the single rack and leaving it on most of the time and then just throwing on the add-on when my fiancé wants to go might make the most sense and be the most convenient all around. That approach would also align with Johnj80's points above.

I guess my biggest hesitation initially on going with the single and an add-on is that it's two parts vs the one part system of the double. i.e. I would think it's more conceivable for something to go wrong with the two piece system (without witnessing how solid the add-on attaches to the single rack in person). With that said, I have not read anyone having issues with that in the 80+ pages of this thread or anywhere else for that matter so it's probably not something I need to worry about.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

I have a 2 inch hitch on my highlander, but bought the 1.25 inch 1up. In single tray mode, folded up, you pretty much don't know it is there. The single tray is lighter and it is easier to install the single tray on the hitch and then add or remove the second tray while the first tray is on the hitch. You may want to consider what cars you or fiance will own in the future. If you get a car that can only mount a 1.25 hitch, the 2 inch 1up won't fit. So now you will be limited to using the 1up on only one car.

As for hitch size, I suspect the 2 inch hitch will be somewhat larger on your Crosstrek, and may not "blend" in as well. If that doesn't bother you, go with the larger hitch, but only if the Crosstrek can actually support the added towing capacity. You never know when you just might need a 2 inch hitch.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

DM14XV said:


> I would say we would probably leave it on 75% of the time or so. jdkobe raised an interesting point that I wasn't really considering about raising the rear door when 2 racks are on it without having to tilt the entire rack. I see myself riding solo a decent amount so going with the single rack and leaving it on most of the time and then just throwing on the add-on when my fiancé wants to go might make the most sense and be the most convenient all around. That approach would also align with Johnj80's points above.
> 
> I guess my biggest hesitation initially on going with the single and an add-on is that it's two parts vs the one part system of the double. i.e. I would think it's more conceivable for something to go wrong with the two piece system (without witnessing how solid the add-on attaches to the single rack in person). With that said, I have not read anyone having issues with that in the 80+ pages of this thread or anywhere else for that matter so it's probably not something I need to worry about.


The two pieces are an advantage for both storage and for installation/removal. The hitch piece goes on in less than 30 seconds. The add on kit is less than that. It's easier to carry in two pieces, less bulky for installation and you can hang them on your garage wall or place them in your trunk much easier. That modular approach is probably one of the top reasons I bought this rack.

I absolutely would take the two piece rack over the one piece two bike version.

J.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> The two pieces are an advantage for both storage and for installation/removal. The hitch piece goes on in less than 30 seconds. The add on kit is less than that. It's easier to carry in two pieces, less bulky for installation and you can hang them on your garage wall or place them in your trunk much easier. That modular approach is probably one of the top reasons I bought this rack.
> 
> I absolutely would take the two piece rack over the one piece two bike version.
> 
> J.


Seconded. This is what I have, as well.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

If I was going to do it all over again I would have tried to get a 2" single rack as it is so easy to take on and off a single rack and that is what I use 95% of the time. I have an addon and have used it only a couple times. If I ever find that I need 4 bikes, I will just do it as all of my bikes are under 25 pounds, but that doesn't seem likely that I will do that. I have read different things people have said here, and this is what makes the most sense to me. 1UP does not want a person to have a 1.25" hitch, a 1.25" rack, and 4 bikes loaded up on it as the 1.25" hitch is not rated for it. Some people have also cited that the bolts in between the first rack (single) and the second add on while having four racks are not strong enough and will shear off. I think this all depends on what your total weight of bike 2, 3, and 4 are. If they are 50# DH bikes, then yea, that probably is not a good idea. 

I would also advise on getting the 2" hitch if your car will allow it.

I can still open my liftgate with the single folded up and the license plate is not obstructed with the single folded up.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

rdb said:


> I have a 2 inch hitch on my highlander, but bought the 1.25 inch 1up. In single tray mode, folded up, you pretty much don't know it is there. The single tray is lighter and it is easier to install the single tray on the hitch and then add or remove the second tray while the first tray is on the hitch. You may want to consider what cars you or fiance will own in the future. If you get a car that can only mount a 1.25 hitch, the 2 inch 1up won't fit. So now you will be limited to using the 1up on only one car.
> 
> As for hitch size, I suspect the 2 inch hitch will be somewhat larger on your Crosstrek, and may not "blend" in as well. If that doesn't bother you, go with the larger hitch, but only if the Crosstrek can actually support the added towing capacity. You never know when you just might need a 2 inch hitch.


They don't make a 2" hitch for my wife's brand new Ford Fusion, but that won't stop me from buying the 2" 1UP for it... our second. The solution is to buy the 1-1/4" receiver kit for the Fusion, cut the receiver tube off and replace it with a comparable length 2" receiver tube. At least one of the outfits that sell the pkg has an aorderable part # for a bare 2" receiver tube. I am having my wife's receiver kit modified in this fashion by a certified welder, and then having the entire piece stripped, prepped, and plated with Ion Bond to prevent rust.

I'm ordering a second underside cover for the fusion (they say you have to remove it), that I will modify (read: cut up) to fit back in the factory location with relief holes to allow the receiver mounts to pass through.

NOT DOT, but we aren't going to EVER tow anything behind the Fusion...


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

If you're certain your family isn't going to be growing and you won't need to carry four bikes then I would definitely choose the single bike option with multiple add-ons. The two bike carrier option is just heavy to put on /off and there's no chance my wife could do it. Along the same line of thinking if you're only going to need to carry three bikes then I would go with you 1 1/4 inch hitch as it offers more flexibility for future vehicles. But I'd ur eventually going to be needing to carry 4 bikes (these racks aren't cheap to replace if you later determine the need to get the two bike option to allow for 4 bikes) then I'd go for the two bike option with 2" hitch.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

*XV with a 2 inch*

Here are some relevant pics of my 2 inch 2x 1up rack on my 2013 XV. I got a 2 inch receiver because I do pull a trailer. 
I also am a mtb guide so I have the need to carry a lot of bikes and I need the ability to upgrade to a 4x on the back. 
You know your needs better than anyone else but this is what it looks like if you choose to go this route.

Edit: Can't add pictures now for some reason.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)




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## DM14XV (Jun 24, 2014)

Thanks for uploading the pics and everyone else's input. I think I've decided on going with the 2" hitch size and the single bike (w/ 1 add-on) option for the rack. Having the hitch installed early next week and putting in the order with 1-up tonight. Thanks again everyone!


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## MustG0Faster (Aug 27, 2012)

@Silentfoe what is the round PVC pipe used for?


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Yeah I didn't even notice that. Looks like it comes from behind the hitch, and is wired. 

Edit: might be some kind of trailer hitch harness?


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

You mean the U-Lock? I do exactly the same, not the sharpest look in town but it deters would-be thieves hopefully.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Ah it's a U-Lock


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Yep. U lock. It works.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

Sadly I think my rack with the nice anodized trays has bitten the dust. My dad backed into it while I was parked in their driveway, so it should be replaced by insurance, but since they're powder coating now it won't be quite the same. On the plus side, I like the idea of the notched bars, so I guess it's kind of a wash.

Plus I'm without the rack until insurance gets its act together, which is not cool. Hopefully it won't be too much longer.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

nemebean said:


> Sadly I think my rack with the nice anodized trays has bitten the dust. My dad backed into it while I was parked in their driveway, so it should be replaced by insurance, but since they're powder coating now it won't be quite the same. On the plus side, I like the idea of the notched bars, so I guess it's kind of a wash.
> 
> Plus I'm without the rack until insurance gets its act together, which is not cool. Hopefully it won't be too much longer.


Which part of the rack got damaged? Specifically, if the tray itself is OK, that can be swapped over to the new rack so you can have the best of both worlds - the notched bars and the anodized tray. I'm pretty sure the trays are simply bolted on and swappable.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Timeless said:


> I am glad to hear I am not the only one have that issue. On my add on one of the 2 have that problem. I hardly use the add on but still annoying. I would love to hear if anyone has figured out how to fix it.


I fixed it. One of the bolts on the hard-to-move bike holding arm was way too overtorqued. It is the bolt in the middle that connects the main arm to the locking short arm, the one missing in this picture. Loosen it a bit and it will work fine. Do not make it too loose or you will end up like the guy who made that pic though.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

albertdc said:


> Which part of the rack got damaged? Specifically, if the tray itself is OK, that can be swapped over to the new rack so you can have the best of both worlds - the notched bars and the anodized tray. I'm pretty sure the trays are simply bolted on and swappable.


Yeah, that would be ideal. One of the trays is what got hit though, so I'm not sure it's going to be that simple. I'll have to take a closer look when I get the new one.


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## Bykeme (Mar 29, 2014)

I have a 2Dr Rubicon with the spare on the tailgate. Does anybody have this vehicle set up and do you need the extension option to provide bicycles space between the rack and spare tire? Finally does anyone have a direct phone number to the manufacturer ? The web offers email which I've sent but would like to call as well re backorder timeline .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

There's a phone number on their contact page: +1 608-568-7261

I'd be curious to hear what they say about backorder times. I ordered my replacement rack a little while ago and still haven't heard anything about when I'll be getting it.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

I have a factory hitch kit on my JK Rubi. However, I did swap out the original receiver for the longer unit... Hidden Hitch 87424 - Hidden Hitch Class III 2" Receiver Hitch for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec ...which allows me to partially fold up the rack (I have it folded 3/4 of the way up). However, if you are not concerned with the rack being folded up when not in use, the gate will swing fully open with either the extended or OEM receiver.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Phone # is on their site under Contact Us. I recommend using the factory hitch and the extender sold by 1UPUSA. It has been modified to tighten fully. The factory hitch will give you more departure clearance. Even with 35s, I can fold it up fully and still be a couple of inches away from the tire.


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## Bacons (Nov 10, 2011)

I tried using an anti-wobble extender on my OEM hitch, but just didn't like it. In my neurosis, I viewed it as another point of failure. YVMV.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I have taken the 1UPUSA extender + rack on some rough trails that my Subaru or regular SUV would never make. That extender does not budge or loosen. It tightens to the receiver just like the rack itself does. My friend also used a tightening/locking extender he bought online but ended up using the one made by 1UP since his one still wobbled a bit. Even if I still used the NV or T2, I'd use this extender now. Given my paranoia, I still check it often and it has not loosened up. Still, check it all frequently. Every extra piece is a piece to check.


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## NYRT4R (Jul 12, 2014)

nemebean said:


> There's a phone number on their contact page: +1 608-568-7261
> 
> I'd be curious to hear what they say about backorder times. I ordered my replacement rack a little while ago and still haven't heard anything about when I'll be getting it.


I ordered my 1up hitch last Wednesday and it's due for delivery tomorrow. It shipped the day after I ordered it.


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

NYRT4R said:


> I ordered my 1up hitch last Wednesday and it's due for delivery tomorrow. It shipped the day after I ordered it.


Yeah, but the racks are still backordered according to their website. I ordered mine a week or two ago and still haven't heard anything.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I emailed 1up this morning about the back-ordered racks and this is what they said:

"They’re currently shipping 3-5 days from the date of the order."

I'm seriously considering get a 1up, I have a small car with good gas mileage and a tacoma. The car has a 1 1/4 and the truck has a 2" receiver. It would sure be nice to have 1 rack for both vehicles. It looks like the 1up 1 1/4" to 2" adapter works well. . .

What locks should I get? The wheel locks look simple, but also look like a great way to destroy my wheels. . .


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## nemebean (Feb 20, 2012)

nemebean said:


> Yeah, but the racks are still backordered according to their website. I ordered mine a week or two ago and still haven't heard anything.


Of course I say that and two hours later I get an email that my order has shipped. It'll be here Friday. 

For locks, I think most people are just using u-locks with cables wrapped around the important bits. That's what I do anyway.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

unrooted said:


> I'm seriously considering get a 1up, I have a small car with good gas mileage and a tacoma. The car has a 1 1/4 and the truck has a 2" receiver. It would sure be nice to have 1 rack for both vehicles. It looks like the 1up 1 1/4" to 2" adapter works well. . .
> 
> What locks should I get? The wheel locks look simple, but also look like a great way to destroy my wheels. . .


I have the 1 1/4 with 2 inch adapter mounted on my Highlander 2" receiver. Works really well.

I have an old U-lock on the hitch to the 1up. I use a Kryptonite 51 inch x 12 mm chain to lock the frame of the bike to the hitch. A thief could still get my wheels and seat. I ride before work and my car is parked in a suburban office park parking lot during the day, with my bike on the rack. From what I read only a thick chain will deter most bike thieves. Even then the real pros will use a portable angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and be through the chain in a couple of minutes. Since it is a suburban lot, this is probably overkill. I wouldn't park it like this in a major city.


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

*New Addition*

Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I will post pics up later, but just installed the 2" 2 bike rack on my 2002 CRV. Top notch, top quality materials and machining. This is a VERY SOLID unit, no questions asked. The hitch inserts far enough to allow the rack to fold up and not contact the spare tire hanging off my tailgate!


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Flyer said:


> I have taken the 1UPUSA extender + rack on some rough trails that my Subaru or regular SUV would never make. That extender does not budge or loosen. It tightens to the receiver just like the rack itself does. My friend also used a tightening/locking extender he bought online but ended up using the one made by 1UP since his one still wobbled a bit. Even if I still used the NV or T2, I'd use this extender now. Given my paranoia, I still check it often and it has not loosened up. Still, check it all frequently. Every extra piece is a piece to check.


Thanks for the pics of the extender installation. I might consider that for my Trooper. It would be nice to get just a bit more clearance from my spare wheel. It folds up fairly snugly in the tilted position. With a bike, I have to nestle my pedal into the wheel, and the pedal usually scratches it. It makes it difficult with a wide platform like a twenty6 Predator.


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## big_slacker (Feb 16, 2004)

GT-R with a hitch and bike carrier??! You sir, deserve some kind of award! 



ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


Did you pick that up recently from CMC?


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Did you pick that up recently from CMC?


Sorry, CMC?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Anyone know if one can fit a roof-rack model to a hitch by some kind of sorcery?


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## tednugent (Apr 16, 2009)

kragu said:


> Anyone know if one can fit a roof-rack model to a hitch by some kind of sorcery?


Sure, if you weld up a frame to mount it to


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


Roller cam? Is it...is it? On a GT-r... Who gives a crap about the rack, let's see the rides! Both of them!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

ICONCLS said:


> Sorry, CMC?


Chicago Motors Cars


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

kragu said:


> Anyone know if one can fit a roof-rack model to a hitch by some kind of sorcery?


I believe 1up sells an adapter to mount a roof rack tray to an existing 1up hitch rack. Check out their website. Other than that, visit your local welding shop to see what they can do for you.


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Chicago Motors Cars


Ah, no, I purchased this '13 GT-R new from Naperville.


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

hatake said:


> Roller cam? Is it...is it? On a GT-r... Who gives a crap about the rack, let's see the rides! Both of them!


The Bike will appeal more to the VRC crowd, a One-Off Titanium I commissioned back in '91 and I don't seem to have anymore pics of the Datsun.


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## g-t- (Dec 22, 2004)

ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


Nice set up can you share a side pic with the bike in the rack ?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

rdb said:


> I believe 1up sells an adapter to mount a roof rack tray to an existing 1up hitch rack. Check out their website. Other than that, visit your local welding shop to see what they can do for you.


Yep - you're right. Got email confirmation of that this morning. You can bolt a roof rack to a hitch assembly they sell for $175 or to an add-on frame for $75. They don't sell either on their website...one has to call to order.

Thanks, rdb!


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

ICONCLS said:


> The Bike will appeal more to the VRC crowd, a One-Off Titanium I commissioned back in '91 and I don't seem to have anymore pics of the Datsun.


wtb or something else? I haven't step into vrc forum for over a year... R32 was my favorite. Good choice on both rides


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## hotsalsa (Jun 10, 2011)

So what's the consensus on the black vs silver? I reviewed the thread and a few said black does scratch, but most were happy with it.

Black would look way better on my truck, but it is $100 more with the 2 bike add-on. I'm also worried about durability, fading, and scratching. I mean it's a rack and just like my bikes it will get beat on. But if it will look trashed in a few years I'll go silver. If it holds up well I'll go black, and never go back.


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## Overkill-F1 (Nov 16, 2013)

The only thing I would worry about is the fading. If you plan on leaving the rack out in the sun, day after day after day, then it may fade. If you don't think it will see this extreme amount of sun, then you only have to worry about chipping and scratching. Damage like this is quite noticable, but it is a easy fix with a small brush and touchup paint. I have even used a black sharpie on other items just to make it not so noticable.
...Terry
ps, my truck is black and I'm not sure which one I will get, but I am going to get one for sure.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I have the black and have not had any issues. I do however remove it when not in use, and do not keep it on the truck.


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

Check this rack out if you are interested in the NSR.

https://www.facebook.com/ReconRacks


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

*As Requested...*



g-t- said:


> ...can you share a side pic with the bike in the rack ?


Side view:


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## Stryder75 (Feb 2, 2010)

*Final got 1 and can't believe I waited so long*

Finally purchased a 1up and wish I had done it years ago! The rack is a machined piece of art and is such a pleasure to load and unload. I am coming from a fork mount roof rack with a quick release fork bike. I decided when I got my new ride with thru axels I wasn't going to do the roof rack front wheel removal with adapter crap. Wish I had come to that conclusion sooner. Great rack and I will be getting an add on soon.


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## jrands (May 18, 2011)

ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


Sorry, but WOWZERs!!! Is that a Ti bike too?


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## eddjmemg (Apr 12, 2013)

ICONCLS said:


> Just purchased another 1UP, a single tray for a newly commissioned hauler.


Ok let's test the 1up. Do a hard launch to 100 as fast as you can. If the bike stays on I'll get rid of my roof rack n buy one for my 2.slow diesel. Lol. Lovin your setup!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I am impressed someone actually makes a trailer hitch for a GT-R. I am guessing that might have been the only one ever sold?

I am loving my 1-up, but it is a bit noisy and there are clearly issues with the powder coating process on the trays. I don't have a lot of experience with pc, but know that there is someting wrong when I can peel off a chip of paint the size of my finger nail. 

I am guessing there is an issue with their prepping process, or they are not getting enough heat into the trays after they have been sprayed.


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

Unless something has changed, I don't think their racks are powdercoated. The silver ones are bare aluminum (at least mine is, they might be clear ano now) and I'm pretty sure the black ones are anodized.

Either way, I'm sure I would contact 1up and let them know about the issue. The service seems pretty good from them.


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## neb001 (Mar 22, 2007)

kazlx said:


> Unless something has changed, I don't think their racks are powdercoated. The silver ones are bare aluminum (at least mine is, they might be clear ano now) and I'm pretty sure the black ones are anodized.
> 
> Either way, I'm sure I would contact 1up and let them know about the issue. The service seems pretty good from them.


Yes, they switched from anodizing to powdercoating the black a while back. The flaking is a known issue IIRC...


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

Well that sucks.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Anodizing fades big time over the course of just one year under the sun. GT Zaskar used to come in anodized finish in the 90s, almost all of them had two-tone fades after a while. I wouldn't use anodizing on anything highly exposed to sun. PC should be strong enough not to peel like that, unless they goofed it. Tell them your issue and see what they say...


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## ICONCLS (Sep 17, 2010)

*Hell...*



eddjmemg said:


> Ok let's test the 1up. Do a hard launch...


I do that form of testing at nearly every light.


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## eddjmemg (Apr 12, 2013)

ICONCLS said:


> I do that form of testing at nearly every light.


NICE! Lol

Powder coating does not peel and should not peel. When you get something powder coated, like wheels, you get a lifetime warranty on the clear and paint. So I'm sure it's only paint. You can get it powder coated, just google local areas. It's not expensive at all. You can custom color it.


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

kazlx said:


> Unless something has changed, I don't think their racks are powdercoated. The silver ones are bare aluminum (at least mine is, they might be clear ano now) and I'm pretty sure the black ones are anodized.
> 
> Either way, I'm sure I would contact 1up and let them know about the issue. The service seems pretty good from them.


Got my 1up back around Christmas and it is the silver and powder coated.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Powder coat is just a means of applying a paint. It's being used because it doesn't have the solvents that wet painting does and therefore it doesn't have the OSHA and EPA restrictions. Powder is distributed through electrostatic means and then it's heated to melt it and bond it to the surface. Surface prep is just as important as with wet paints and then the heat treating is also critical. And you don't get to see if it really worked until it comes out of the oven. 

So if it isn't right, I'd ask them to make it right. Doubtful they do their own powder coating and their coating supplier will own the problem if brought to their attention.

J.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Big ask ... someone with at least 2 bikes, can you take a video of tilting the rack down _while its loaded with bikes_?

Barring a video, can I get comments on how easy/hard it is to tilt the rack away from the car ( to get access to hatch ) when loaded with bikes. ( seems I spotted one - and it was "I never would tilt while loaded, its too hard" )

Comparing to Kuat NV ... the usual suspect!

Thanks


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

It's fine to tilt it while loaded. I do it all the time. You want to unweight the (black) lock bar to make it easier so I usually use one arm to hold/unweight the outer bike while pulling the lock bar to tilt. Easy. And onlookers usually say "awesome, that's convenient"


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

Just placed order for the 1up USA 1-bike quick rack in silver. pretty excited to get it. 

was trying to decide between a thule T2 which i could have gotten for ~50% off and this 1up rack. 

decided to splurge a little bit more to have a really sturdy easy to use rack that is made in USA and based on all the positive reviews. excited to get it and put it to good use.

what is the best way everyone feels to secure their bikes to the rack when the vehicle will be unattended for short time. obviously i would never leave the bike on there to store it on the rack. Just want to have that piece of mind. 

Do the security items work well that 1up provides? particularly the one with the keys and goes through the wholes and through the wheel on the bikes? is just one of those adequate enough or better off getting one for each wheel? or are those just a joke?


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

slcpunk said:


> Big ask ... someone with at least 2 bikes, can you take a video of tilting the rack down _while its loaded with bikes_?
> 
> Barring a video, can I get comments on how easy/hard it is to tilt the rack away from the car ( to get access to hatch ) when loaded with bikes. ( seems I spotted one - and it was "I never would tilt while loaded, its too hard" )
> 
> ...


Agree with "bad Andy" above. Works well, but of course depends on the weight of your bikes. Can be a bit of a reach to get to the black lever while unweighting the bikes if you are shorter (tough for my wife). The rack doesn't lock in the down position which is nice - when you are done with your hatch, you just lift on the bikes and bring the rack back to the locked, standard position.
I am guessing based on your name that you are in Salt Lake. I am too - PM me if you want to check out my rack. I have the older generation double but also 2 of the newer generation add-ons.


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## MrEconomics (Aug 23, 2004)

Those worrying about durability, I have gone through two winters with the rack on the back at least half the time. I have also gone through automated car washes with the rack on the back (no bike of course). The rack still functions perfectly and looks great. The only thing I did was spray some lube on the joints and sliders and it's like brand new again.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

I've only ever tilted mine down with two road bikes so not as much weight as mountain bikes, but it was pretty effortless. I had to get the angle just right so I could release the bar and rotate it down, but once I got that I had no problem. It was with a 2014 Jetta Sportwagen.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

askibum02 said:


> I've only ever tilted mine down with two road bikes so not as much weight as mountain bikes, but it was pretty effortless. I had to get the angle just right so I could release the bar and rotate it down, but once I got that I had no problem. It was with a 2014 Jetta Sportwagen.


I think two bikes is about the limit - remember you are lifting the weight of the rack plus 3 bikes. So that it going to be around 60 lbs.

I generally find it a lot easier to just take out the bike closest to the back if i need to get into the lift gate. Bikes come out and go back in so quickly, that's generally faster and easier.

J.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Great comments all. Sounds like it will be about the same as an NV - although not being locked "down" is nice, as then you just have to lift up. put that in the plus column.

thanks again


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

Very excited, today is the day my 1up Quick Rack will be delivered! Can't wait to try it out and see what the hype is about for myself. It will have its maiden voyage bringing my 2014 crave pro to the shop to fix a rear flat tire from last nights ride. The shop is only 1.5 miles from my house so i think it should be fine on the rack for that short of a distance.

now im just debating if I want to go tubeless or not...


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

@AE Beej

The 1 up uses your tires air pressure to hold it securely. DO NOT drive with your bike in the rack if it has a flat tire. Bad idea.

Of course, go tubeless. And WTH are you having your LBS fix a flat? Nut up man.


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

Well, I am going there because I work there and would be doing the work myself... Just debating if i want to leave my bike and have them do the work of going tubeless for me after I get the stuff with my discount.

I can easily do it myself, I just work full time job, as well as part-time at the bike shop so anytime I can spare myself some time I am fine with that. 

You think I will have an issue with the bike in the rack if I were literally going 1.5 miles on paved road that is only 35mph max speed limit?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Got ya on working there. I do the same thing. If you don't mind your bike banging around in the rack and just generally being unsecure then sure, do it. The only downfall of racks like the 1 up is that they rely on tire pressure for bike security. If you get a slow leak while riding and drive home, you could be SOL before you get there. Now, granted the arms of the rack SHOULD hold the bike it but it will be moving all over the place.


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

i see, you are probably right. I am just too excited to put the new rack to use lol.

I will probably not use it until the tube is replaced or when i go tubeless.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

This morning, a car swooped around a corner, where I was parked and ran right over my 1up. The damage doesn't look so bad in the picture but the frame of the rack is bent along with the trays. Luckily, a cop, a parking lot security officer and I were all in the parking lot and watched it happen. I would guess that his insurance will be buying me a new one.


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

Mine should arrive any minute...

I just got back from the bike shop I work at and just set my bike up tubeless so I am pretty excited for that!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

Got my rack as well as tubeless setup for under $5.


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## jrands (May 18, 2011)

^Nice. My estimated delivery is this Friday. Can't wait! However, I will have to wait until Saturday when I install my hitch


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I've been scratching my head trying to figure out a better way to haul my bikes with my pickup and a tonneau cover with out having to remove the cover. You all have me sold!! Looking to pick up a double super duty... Hopefully before Xmas!

Are you all ordering direct? Or is there another reputable
source?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Coaster Mech said:


> I've been scratching my head trying to figure out a better way to haul my bikes with my pickup and a tonneau cover with out having to remove the cover. You all have me sold!! Looking to pick up a double super duty... Hopefully before Xmas!
> 
> Are you all ordering direct? Or is there another reputable
> source?


One of the best bike purchases I've ever made, and I've made a lot of them! Direct is the only way to order, AFAIK.


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## AE Beej (Apr 6, 2012)

All the glowing reviews are accurate about this rack. I can only explain it as the "iPhone" of bikes racks if that makes sense. It is quality, works awesome and easily, and everyone is going to want to know about it when they see it. 

This thing is rock solid on the car. I tested it out on highway last night and bike didn't flinch


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## moldau94 (Aug 16, 2009)

No, it's better than an iPhone!


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Bailey44 said:


> This morning, a car swooped around a corner, where I was parked and ran right over my 1up. The damage doesn't look so bad in the picture but the frame of the rack is bent along with the trays. Luckily, a cop, a parking lot security officer and I were all in the parking lot and watched it happen. I would guess that his insurance will be buying me a new one.


Happened to me earlier in the summer, mine looked a little worse but not by much, but insurance bought me a new rack. Unfortunately they took the old one. The packrat in me wanted to strip off good parts for future spares but insurance said no.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I just ordered a Silver Super Duty. I wanted a black one since the truck and both bikes are black. But I just couldn't justify the $80 price difference, Especially with all the negative comments about the new powder coat finish over the older anodized version. 

I am Super Excited to get it!!!


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

You will be very happy with it.


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## bullofthenorth (Aug 29, 2014)

I just received my 4 bike setup. So far so good - nice, solid product. Fits my car well (2001 Forester), allowing access to the hatch by tilting down the bikes, and also by tilting down one notch from the "up" position when empty. I like it being modular, so I can have a 2, 3, or 4 bike setup. Rack and bikes mount up quickly. Glad to be done with the roof rack rigmarole.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Hauling four fatties no problem.


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## jrands (May 18, 2011)

Got mine set up today. Went with the silver and the add-on as well.


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## Aviators (Apr 23, 2007)

Single on my daily driver, have 3 bike capacity total. Fantastic rack!

Had to angle grinder off part of the hitch to clear the quad exhaust but I can get to trails quickly.


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

I've been loving my 1up rack for 4 years now, but have run into some trouble. First off the rack itself seized (cold welded) into my hitch. You can order new parts, so i ordered a new hitch section and another part, the top plate, to refurb my old rack. I tossed the old hitch since im selling the car. Several of the other bolts, stainless steel, are also seized in the aluminum rack. If i strip these bolts the rack is basically a throw away at this point. Kind of dissapointed, they wouldn't use proper anti-seize with unlike metals.


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## Bailey44 (Dec 30, 2010)

edthesped said:


> Happened to me earlier in the summer, mine looked a little worse but not by much, but insurance bought me a new rack. Unfortunately they took the old one. The packrat in me wanted to strip off good parts for future spares but insurance said no.
> 
> Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


I ordered a new one last Thursday and received it today. That's fast with Holiday and all. Now I hope the insurance company pays for it.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

blantonator said:


> I've been loving my 1up rack for 4 years now, but have run into some trouble. First off the rack itself seized (cold welded) into my hitch. You can order new parts, so i ordered a new hitch section and another part, the top plate, to refurb my old rack. I tossed the old hitch since im selling the car. Several of the other bolts, stainless steel, are also seized in the aluminum rack. If i strip these bolts the rack is basically a throw away at this point. Kind of dissapointed, they wouldn't use proper anti-seize with unlike metals.


I am guessing you are in a northern climate with snow and salt? I would think it's pretty standard practice to put some time of lube in your reciever :ihih:, and you may want to try heating the bolts up with a torch before removing.


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## capall (Aug 27, 2012)

*just got mine....now what type of locks are you using to secure your roof trays?*

hi all,
Just received my 2 roof trays, and boy are they'rere substantial. Not light and flimsy like the plastic Yakima, and quite a bit heavier than Thule aluminum. Looking forward to trying them out.

I was wondering what locks / cables you are using to secure to the roof rack, actual model names/numbers would be great. thanks
Derek


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## blantonator (May 6, 2007)

jonshonda said:


> I am guessing you are in a northern climate with snow and salt? I would think it's pretty standard practice to put some time of lube in your reciever :ihih:, and you may want to try heating the bolts up with a torch before removing.


going to try the torch tonight.


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## ladljon (Nov 30, 2011)

Don't use a torch....freeze it and hit with a rubber mallet or chunk of wood....and air can turned upside down and spray...should freeze. Heat will make the medal expand.


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## jbsmith (Aug 3, 2008)

I just received some new security bolts (the one that tightens it into the hitch and for the add ons) because the center pin rusted (of course they replaced for free!! ). Does anyone know how to replace the one that is in the hitch?


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

ladljon said:


> Don't use a torch....freeze it and hit with a rubber mallet or chunk of wood....and air can turned upside down and spray...should freeze. Heat will make the medal expand.


You need to quit hitting the booze dude!! Heat and cold with do the same thing, but it will me much easier to get heat into the part with a torch, than it would be to fiddle f*ck around with a spray can and try to freeze the part. Because the bolt and rack are two different substraights, they will expand/contract at different rates. All you are doing is trying to break the corrosive bond between the bolt and the material it is threaded into.


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## capall (Aug 27, 2012)

*what's your thoughts on the current black roof trays*

Hi,
thinking about getting a black roof tray, what are you're thoughts on them with respect to the following

do they show scratches more easy than the silver?
Do they fade to a brown with the sun?
Are they anodized or power coated and how does this compare to the silver?

thanks


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Both black and silver have a combination of powder coating and anodizing - the actual tray that the tires touch are powder coated - that was a change they made earlier this year (previously even the trays were anodized). All the other parts are anodized. Unless they have improved the process, the powder coating on the silver chips/peels pretty easily. If the black is the same way, that would make it look horrible in a hurry (at least with the silver paint, when it chips you see the silver aluminum underneath which camouflages the chip to some degree). Hopefully people with black powdercoated trays will chime in regarding the durability.


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## capall (Aug 27, 2012)

thanks albertdc, good info
any more info would be appreciated


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

My silver super duty Ordered on a Thursday recieved in 8 days! And it sat at UPS for 4 days over the labour day weekend!

I love this rack!! Much nicer than expected. My only complaint is the ratchet plate seems to bite really hard and the entire release seems to flex awkwardly when opening. Perhaps I just need to get a better feel for it! Also as others have said the edges are SHARP! I managed to cut my knuckle up pretty good installing it for the first time.

I also got the kryptonite mini u lock and a 7' cable to secure everything!

(sorry about the pics, it was getting late and the sun was not working to my advantage.)


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Can someone with the single rack in a 2" hitch comment on how the adapter works. Is it attached to the stinger permanently, or is it loose, such that when you remove from the car it will fall off?

Also - when was the last time anyone asked for a special order 2" single rack? ( seems I found a post from 2013 ) I have 2" hitch and would prefer a 2" rack, but don't want to have to get the double. ( want to be able to run 1 bike most of the time )

thanks in advance


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

slcpunk said:


> Can someone with the single rack in a 2" hitch comment on how the adapter works. Is it attached to the stinger permanently, or is it loose, such that when you remove from the car it will fall off?
> 
> Also - when was the last time anyone asked for a special order 2" single rack? ( seems I found a post from 2013 ) I have 2" hitch and would prefer a 2" rack, but don't want to have to get the double. ( want to be able to run 1 bike most of the time )
> 
> thanks in advance


The adapter bolts to the rack so it's very stable and it won't fall off for any reason.

My buddy got one a couple years back. He had to call him and convince him to make one. He doesn't look doing them but he might if you ask nicely.

I have both and the 2" hitch is definitely more sturdy. You only really notice that when you have more than 2 bikes. He use to rate the smaller hitch for 4 bikes but stopped a few years ago. I think the rack+4 bikes gets real close to the max tongue weight. If I had an extra tray I'd probably try it though.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

woodyak said:


> The adapter bolts to the rack so it's very stable and it won't fall off for any reason.
> 
> My buddy got one a couple years back. He had to call him and convince him to make one. He doesn't look doing them but he might if you ask nicely.
> 
> I have both and the 2" hitch is definitely more sturdy. You only really notice that when you have more than 2 bikes. He use to rate the smaller hitch for 4 bikes but stopped a few years ago. I think the rack+4 bikes gets real close to the max tongue weight. If I had an extra tray I'd probably try it though.


Hey thanks - that's what I needed to know. So at least the adapter is fixed on there, that's good. I would still prefer the 2" stinger....just because...bigger is better! I'll call and see how it goes.


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## whitecoyote (Sep 12, 2014)

I received a 1 Up USA rack last week, and it is awesome!
Very well made, and very solid construction.
You can't go wrong with a 1 Up USA bicycle rack. :thumbsup:


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

woodyak said:


> The adapter bolts to the rack so it's very stable and it won't fall off for any reason.
> 
> My buddy got one a couple years back. He had to call him and convince him to make one. He doesn't look doing them but he might if you ask nicely.
> 
> I have both and the 2" hitch is definitely more sturdy. You only really notice that when you have more than 2 bikes. He use to rate the smaller hitch for 4 bikes but stopped a few years ago. I think the rack+4 bikes gets real close to the max tongue weight. If I had an extra tray I'd probably try it though.


Having the 1 1/4 and the 2, if was only going to haul 1 bike i would get the 1 1/4 because it's so much lighter.

Also, I have one of the very first 2" receivers and the part that goes into the hitch is solid I see newer ones are drilled. Is that for weight savings?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## rlsmith17 (Sep 28, 2014)

Looking at buying the 1Up for my Chevrolet Traverse. Does anyone on here have one with pics that you can share? 

Thanks in advance!


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## spirit4earth (Apr 30, 2007)

Can someone tell me how long the 1up roof tray is? I can't find that spec on their website.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

_Alberto_ said:


> There shouldn't be any edges on a bike rack sharp enough to cut anybody handling it...


I agree. Was loving my rack (on the roof) on it's first use today, then I noticed the blood dripping from a small slice on my thumb. I have no idea how it got cut, other than I didn't feel a thing and that it happened as I was securing the bike to the rack.

Still impressed with the rack, just need to figure out how not to get cut again.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

spirit4earth said:


> Can someone tell me how long the 1up roof tray is? I can't find that spec on their website.


55 inches


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## spirit4earth (Apr 30, 2007)

antonio said:


> 55 inches


Thank you----those look great!


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

spirit4earth said:


> Thank you----those look great!


Thanks. I think so, too. Very low-profile.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

*Thoughts on the Roof Rack*

While I still like the rack much more than my old Thule big mouth (and an older fork mount), it does have it's challenges. My take...

*Pros:
- Looks sleek
- Easy installation
- Very secure hold on the bikes
- Made in the USA*

*Cons:
- A little hard to open the arms* (might just need some breaking-in/loosening up. I also wonder if this is only an issue when the racks are on the roof, where you have to push the arms away from you, over your shoulder level. I assume pulling towards you at a hitch-rack level is likely easier)
*- A little tricky to mount a bike and close the arms *(Again, likely because it's on the roof. I've found that leaving one arm fully-open and the other close to where it will be when the bike is secured makes it easier to mount the bike.)
*- It appears that paint on the black trays chips easily *(See second pic. I've only used it twice and have been pretty careful with it.)

Nevertheless, I am very happy with the racks. Definitely worth their retail price.


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I just noticed the single bike tray with a 2" receiver version is now available to order on the 1up site!


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

To open the arm - I found it's easier to open the arm if I press the arm into the tire a little (take the load off, I think), then unlatch the lever. Otherwise the lever is firmly latched into the locking grooves on the rail. Not sure if this is an option for roof mounted situation tho...


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

To open the arms from the closed position I put my fingers on the bottom edge of the lever and push it up even with the ratchet rod. This is the sweet spot, disengages the ratchet but not so high up that it re-engages the ratchet. The arms will raise or lower without a sound. I wear gloves when I raise and lower the arm, I wouldn't try this without gloves on. If you leave the rear tire arm in the correct spot, you can just roll the bike in and it will pretty much stay put while you close the front tire arm. Same thing when removing the bike. I lower the front tire arm and roll the bike out from the rear arm.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

The other trick regarding the unlock arm is to raise it straight up or if anything pushing it TOWARDS the tray. If you pull it away while lifting it up then it jams into the locking rod.


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## garysol1 (Nov 15, 2012)

Coaster Mech said:


> I just noticed the single bike tray with a 2" receiver version is now available to order on the 1up site!


Got mine a few days ago. Can you say SOLID!!!! ?


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## slowracle (Sep 23, 2009)

garysol1 said:


> got mine a few days ago. Can you say solid!!!! ?


solid!


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## pdon (Oct 24, 2013)

I recently got the single 1up. Sits nice and close to the rear bumper of my 08 outback, I love it.


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## garysol1 (Nov 15, 2012)

Only issue I have found using the rack on my 2014 Ram is that when I flip the rack up and out of the way it completely blocks my tag. Even in the normal open position my tag is partially blocked. If a cop is bored I could see being pulled over and ticketed.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

garysol1 said:


> Only issue I have found using the rack on my 2014 Ram is that when I flip the rack up and out of the way it completely blocks my tag. Even in the normal open position my tag is partially blocked. If a cop is bored I could see being pulled over and ticketed.


It blocks the rear license plate of my car and my wife's SUV but so far so good... no bored cops.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

garysol1 said:


> Only issue I have found using the rack on my 2014 Ram is that when I flip the rack up and out of the way it completely blocks my tag. Even in the normal open position my tag is partially blocked. If a cop is bored I could see being pulled over and ticketed.


I have the same truck. Never had a problem with cops loaded up.










I do take the rack off when not in use. I do agree that this could potentially be a problem.










On the other hand 1UP does sell a relocation bracket for the plate.


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## garysol1 (Nov 15, 2012)

Bearhunter said:


>


I have never seen that relocation piece before but what happens when the rack is being used and the tag is facing the ground? I would think that could cause an issue.....

Edit: Oh wait. It looks like maybe you just slide it off and reposition the relocation kit when you open or close the rack. If thats the case it does not seem like it would be real secure


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I don't have one, but it's locked in place by the bolts. You would need to use your special key to loosen it...then slide it off...reposition, and tighten the bolts back down.


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## tonka214 (Apr 28, 2013)

I've had mine for about a year... I can't imagine why anyone would bother with anything other than 1UP for a hitch rack.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

I want a black 2" version instead of the 1 1/4" with adapter silver version I have now. If you're in the bay area and looking for this 1up, then you can save $100 plus...

1up usa bike rack


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## Yelnatz (Sep 18, 2014)

Looking nice.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

anybody have a photo to show the differences between the 2" heavy duty and super duty double racks?


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I have been wondering the same thing. I have the super duty and I still can't tell. I emailed one up and their response was "The super duty has the added bar under the 15 degree plate." I have no idea what that means, it almost makes me think they sent me a heavy duty because mine looks identical to every picture posted on this thread.


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I believe this is the reinforcement bar they are talking about. It is between the ribs of the mounting plate for the trays.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Coaster Mech said:


> I believe this is the reinforcement bar they are talking about. It is between the ribs of the mounting plate for the trays.


Interesting, I have the Heavy Duty and mine is ribbed at that location. I don't see how a flat bar in the same location would allow you to go from a 50 to 75 lb bike?

When I ordered mine, the salesman did not tell me about the Super Duty. I told them that I was going to carry 4 fatbikes and two of them would be pretty heavy (potentially over 50lbs). When I found out about the Super Duty (after the fact), they told me not to worry because the Heavy Duty would handle it. Anyone else receive the same message?










Edit: I see yours is ribbed too, but has the flat bar in between.


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

Thanks! I ordered the super duty because it adds less than a lb of weight (according to 1up), but increases the load capacity drastically. Realistically I don't think I will ever need the extra weight capacity, but it should help strength if I have 4 bikes and I'm driving over rough offroad terrain.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Does anyone have any lubricant tips? (Sorry, I'm too lazy to read through 90+ pages....I'm kinda drunk)

One of the arms on my rack is just a tad more noisy than then other, when lifting it up ("open"). Nothing too major or concerning. Just wondering if anyone can recommend a safe 1Up lube. I'd ask them directly, but I figure I'd get a quicker answer here.

Thanks in advance!


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Ha. I just put chain lube on mine when I'm tinkering on my bike at any given trailhead.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Do these things ever go on sale? I'm going to pick one up either way, but it's always nice to save some moolah.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

djrez4 said:


> Do these things ever go on sale? I'm going to pick one up either way, but it's always nice to save some moolah.


I have never seen it on sale. Even when they were selling them on eBay it was still the same price.


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## JACKL (Sep 18, 2011)

I'm one of the few that returned my OneUp 2" with add-on.

Pros: 
Super-sturdy, high-quality construction, no assembly required.
Appealing design.
Can leave on the vehicle because when folded up it adds less than a foot to the length of the vehicle, and there is a theft guarantee when locked to the receiver with their tool.

Cons:
Arms on mine were sometimes difficult to open. While lifting the lever and opening the arm, it would often jam.
Lots of fore and aft movement on some bikes. Mine happened to be one of them. I do drive a somewhat stiff riding 4x4, so that probably contributed. My friend has one, and the fore and aft movement while there, is not too bad.

Regarding the silver vs. black - When folded up, the silver reminded me of an aluminum step-ladder on the back of the car. If I was to do it again, I'd go with the black even if I had to do touch-ups to it.


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## Klainmeister (Apr 14, 2012)

Curious because I spoke to them on the phone and they all but guaranteed that it would withstand 4x4 off roading. I often find myself on difficult 4-lo style roads with bikes and need something I can trust!


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

I'm pretty happy with mine ( 2" super duty single + 2 add-ons ) Best feature that no other rack has is the flexibility of 1, 2 or 3 bikes. ( I would really like to do 4 ... but I'm following the rules ). Putting on the base 1 bike rack is super easy. Storage of the other parts is also awesom - no huge rack to deal with. This is one of the top main selling points for me over other racks. ( I like no plastic and made in the USA too )

Another unique plus:
How each rack steps up, making clearance fantastic. We don't really need it on our rig, but for people with low bumpers, this would be huge.

I don't love the arm action - I do find its not super smooth. ( Can't reliably open the arms in one easy motion) But I haven't had a ton of practice yet - it seems like there is a trick ( I've tried every bit of the suggestions, pushing slightly in, out, dead center, etc... ) I do wish I could open the arms with one hand - as most often I'm holding the bike with my other. 

If someone else thinks they have this movement down ... take a video and show us your mastery!

I'm a tiny bit worried about the wear of the teeth where the arms are held up - aluminimum is soft. ( most reports don't seem to make this an issue ) Just that clicking sound is so loud when putting the arms back down ... and I can see a tiny bit of wear in the teeth even after just a few uses.

I've had times when my front disc gets pretty close or touches the arm - easy to avoid with positioning, but caught me by surprise.

Otherwise, I think its rock steady back there - any sway is in the car or the actual bikes, not the rack. ( Jackl - your experience with another rack will be interesting - please post back when you get one )


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## JB51 (Jul 5, 2013)

Klainmeister said:


> Curious because I spoke to them on the phone and they all but guaranteed that it would withstand 4x4 off roading. I often find myself on difficult 4-lo style roads with bikes and need something I can trust!


It will be fine. My buddy rolled his truck at 60 mph, the bike stayed in the rack and they both survived without a scratch. He sent pictures to 1 up and they didn't believe it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

JB51 said:


> It will be fine. My buddy rolled his truck at 60 mph, the bike stayed in the rack and they both survived without a scratch. He sent sent pictures to 1 up and they didn't believe it.


Post the pictures here!

J.


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## JB51 (Jul 5, 2013)

JohnJ80 said:


> Post the pictures here!
> 
> J.


The best one I could find on his FB. I will see if he has one of the back


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Ok, this takes the cake for anyone worrying about "will the rack keep the bike secure". 

Thanks for the photos - excellent.

So, how did he roll his truck?

J.


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## JB51 (Jul 5, 2013)

Evasive maneuvers for someone crossing the double yellow 20 miles from nowhere on a 30 mile rode with one mild bend in it.


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## Wingspan (Jul 10, 2012)

slcpunk said:


> I don't love the arm action - I do find its not super smooth. ( Can't reliably open the arms in one easy motion) But I haven't had a ton of practice yet - it seems like there is a trick ( I've tried every bit of the suggestions, pushing slightly in, out, dead center, etc... ) I do wish I could open the arms with one hand - as most often I'm holding the bike with my other.


What I do: one hand to hold bike (if necessary), second hand puts a bit of inward pressure on the arm, lift lever with my toe. The arms open smoothly every time.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Wingspan said:


> What I do: one hand to hold bike (if necessary), second hand puts a bit of inward pressure on the arm, lift lever with my toe. The arms open smoothly every time.


Trying to picture this, I keep thinking of the monty python funny walk skit...

But to be clear, the trick is the inward pressure on the arm, not the lever. Maybe that's where I was messing up.

thx


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

slcpunk said:


> Trying to picture this, I keep thinking of the monty python funny walk skit...


Ha ha ha, a good one. I usually push one of the wheel arms inward a little (so press against the tire), this allows the cantilever tab to dislodge easily from the teeth of the slider rail.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

djrez4 said:


> Do these things ever go on sale? I'm going to pick one up either way, but it's always nice to save some moolah.


To answer my own question:

No, but I emailed and asked if they had any returns or scratch'n'dents that they could sell at a discount and they did. $515 shipped for a 2" double tray in silver with fat bike kits installed on both trays. That's about 15% off. I may have JACKL's returned rack!

It sounded like there was at least one more available if anyone is in the market.


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## PerfectZero (Jul 22, 2010)

Finally joined the 1up army after following this thread for 3 years hah.










Pretty great so far, and much much better than contorting my bike into the car.

What's the consensus on locking the bike to the rack? Haven't ordered the wheel locks, but thinking of just using a standard chain/lock arrangement when necessary.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

PerfectZero said:


> What's the consensus on locking the bike to the rack? Haven't ordered the wheel locks, but thinking of just using a standard chain/lock arrangement when necessary.


I use the Kryptonite New York noose 1213 to chain the frame to the hitch, not the rack. Ulock rear wheel to frame. I am still puzzling on best method for front wheel. Either a real long ulock to frame, or shorter ulock to fork. Problem is a fork is pretty easy to remove, so I should go to frame, but then I can't get matching keyed ulocks from kryptonite. I have carbon rims, so need to lock them up pretty solid.

If you surf the web The Best Bike Lock | The Sweethome, has a good review of locks and interviews two bike thieves, this is in NY city. I doubt you are mountain biking in NY city, but the advice is good for any area. It all depends on where you leave the bike locked and how much the bike is worth on the chances of it getting stolen. Ulocks and chain locks prevent all but the professional thieves from stealing it. A pro is going to get it if you leave it unattended, no matter what the lock. The idea is to lock it up well enough that the petty thief with low tech tools can't steal it easily, they will just move on to the next bike.

I looked at the wheel locks from 1up, but a small time thief could unbolt the arms with just a cheap socket wrench. Or just pull the quick release and take the frame, with everything else attached. You have a nice ride there, I would definitely chain the frame to the hitch, at the very least. Make sure you take measurements on how much chain you will need to reach the hitch with a lock. The noose is good, because it gives you a lot of useable length.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

PerfectZero said:


> Finally joined the 1up army after following this thread for 3 years hah.


Now for a dropper post...


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

1up sells one of the best cable locks I've ever used on their website. I highly recommend it.


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## PerfectZero (Jul 22, 2010)

rdb said:


> I use the Kryptonite New York noose 1213 to chain the frame to the hitch, not the rack. Ulock rear wheel to frame. I am still puzzling on best method for front wheel.


Cool, thanks for the advice and the article. I'm not _as_ worried about my wheels, and dont really plan on leaving it out of sight for more than a few minutes, so I'm hoping a strong chain like the Kryptonite will be fine. Attaching it to the hitch is a great idea.



Silentfoe said:


> 1up sells one of the best cable locks I've ever used on their website. I highly recommend it.


Looks interesting, I'll check it out.



kragu said:


> Now for a dropper post...


One thing at a time!


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## PerfectZero (Jul 22, 2010)

And now I can verify my bike stays on even if the front tire completely deflates while driving.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

*QuikRack Add-On Adapter*

Can anybody comment on the QuikRack Add-On Adapter? I couldn't find any feedback in my search...

I'm thinking of getting one for my Fiesta to use the add-ons from my 4-place rack. The hitch itself sounds like it'll need some monkeying around to not knock the muffler, but that's another story...


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## jledford (May 21, 2014)

I finally picked up a 1Up rack after going through a couple of Saris racks that each had different problems. This thing has been great so far, much less movement of the bike while traveling, feels much safer at interstate speeds going to and from rides. It also fits perfect on the back of my Chevy Sonic hatchback and the bikes are lower than the Saris racks allowing the bars to stay just at or below the roof line instead of sticking out above it.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

My SUV has a 2 inch receiver, but I bought the 1-1/4" single bike version with a purpose. It comes with the 2 inch adapter, and I can remove the adapter and install it into the 1-1/4 inch receiver on the back of my tow behind travel trailer. Can't beat that.

Plus the fact that it is so easy to remove and install with the one security bolt. Worth every penny.


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## Speed King (Nov 10, 2014)

I just unpacked mine & installed it on my jeep. Really a nice, well designed, easy to use rack. So glad I went this way.


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## downhill502 (Feb 22, 2012)

PerfectZero said:


> Finally joined the 1up army after following this thread for 3 years hah.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks great, can you tell me if the rack is actually wider than the width of your Subaru? With or without the bike loaded?


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## PerfectZero (Jul 22, 2010)

downhill502 said:


> That looks great, can you tell me if the rack is actually wider than the width of your Subaru? With or without the bike loaded?


That's one thing I was worried about initially but it doesn't seem to be a problem. With my bike loaded (that's a XXL 29er) it's wider than the body of the car, but it doesn't seem to be wider than the mirrors.

Doesn't look like it in the pic, but without the bike the rack itself is about 4" shorter on each side than the car.

Either way, I haven't had any problems passing cars on the highway or noticed people giving me extra room. Although I do notice people definitely seem to tailgate less!


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## downhill502 (Feb 22, 2012)

PerfectZero said:


> That's one thing I was worried about initially but it doesn't seem to be a problem. With my bike loaded (that's a XXL 29er) it's wider than the body of the car, but it doesn't seem to be wider than the mirrors.
> 
> Doesn't look like it in the pic, but without the bike the rack itself is about 4" shorter on each side than the car.
> 
> Either way, I haven't had any problems passing cars on the highway or noticed people giving me extra room. Although I do notice people definitely seem to tailgate less!


That's good to hear! Thanks for the response.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*54 1/4" wide*

*downhill502*, FYI, the rack measures 54 1/4" wide _(love it)_ !


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## downhill502 (Feb 22, 2012)

jp08865 said:


> *downhill502*, FYI, the rack measures 54 1/4" wide _(love it)_ !


Thanks!


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

*One up maintenance and lubrication*

I've had my 1up for about 6 months now. This is a long thread and I read the whole thread before I purchased the rack. I have been completely satisfied with the rack, well worth the investment.

Last couple of rides the wheel arms were making a squeal when opening and closing and it was getting difficult to open and close them, so I decided it was time for some maintenance. I believe this may have been covered previously in the thread, but at 95 pages and increasing, I thought it wouldn't hurt to post another. I have attached two photos labeling what I call the ratchet strut, ratchet lever, and wheel arm. I checked 1up's website and couldn't find any FAQs about maintenance. If I missed it, someone please post a link.

Bushing A in the picture is designed to bottom out before getting too tight. I loosened it to see if that fixed my problem, it sort of did, so I tightened it back down and then hit it with a spray of Tri-Flow and the wheel arms starting moving a little better. I also had to spray some Tri-Flow on both ends of bushing B. Now the wheel arm opens and closes super smooth, just like new. No problems closing the wheel arm tight against the tire.

I think the issue is when bushing A starts to stick, the ratchet strut won't pivot freely when opening the wheel arm and ends up forcing the ratchet lever from parallel with the wheel tray. The ratchet mechanism then "digs in" making it difficult to open the wheel arm, there is not enough mechanical advantage with the ratchet lever for your fingers to easily overcome the ratchet strut friction. When closing the wheel arm, the ratchet strut forces the ratchet mechanism to "dig in" in the other direction, the ratchet spring isn't strong enough to overcome the friction in bushing A, making it difficult to fully close the wheel arm against the tire.

In the second picture I show how I hold the ratchet lever parallel to the wheel tray when opening the wheel arm. The picture is a little tilted, but the lever is parallel to the wheel tray. I usually have my gloves on and put the ends of a couple of fingers under the wheel tray as a guide and then use the other fingers to lift the ratchet lever. When bushing A started sticking, I had to start holding the ratchet lever knob and keep fiddling with the ratchet lever as I opened the wheel arm. With the friction gone, I just let my hand slide along the bottom of the tray, keeping the lever parallel.

I don't think the Tri-Flow will harm the bushings. There may be better lubricants, but Tri-Flow was what I had hanging around and seemed to work well in this application. WD-40 may work, but WD-40 is more of a temporary lubricant and I wanted to go with something a little more permanent.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Keep it very far away from your 1 Up rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Silentfoe said:


> WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Keep it very far away from your 1 Up rack.


Actually it is a lubricant as well as a cleaner. It's a very light penetrating oil but only for very light lubricating applications. Go look at their website.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Ah, the age old arguement that it is also a lubricant. It is a solvent, with a light lubricant. Once again, keep this very far away from your rack and your bike.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

huh? It's light lubricating oil in an evaporating solvent. not exactly rocket science.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> huh? It's light lubricating oil in an evaporating solvent. not exactly rocket science.


Well, it was created by using science, originally for rockets... so, in a way... JK JK!

+rep for your effort to dispel the unreasonable WD-40 hate.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

My trays are several years old and I have never lubed them, I do hose them off once a season though. OTOH, my rack always comes off and is stowed in the garage between rides. I see one other local car that always has the 1up in their hitch and scratch my head as to why when it's so easy to remove, I mostly see the car parked in an overly cramped indoor hospital parking lot, which happens to be the same one, due to its cramped spaces, that has led to many scrapes on my bumper and dings on my doors.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

edthesped said:


> OTOH, my rack always comes off and is stowed in the garage between rides. I see one other local car that always has the 1up in their hitch and scratch my head as to why when it's so easy to remove...


I leave my rack on year-round. I ride 2-5 times per week so constantly removing and reattaching would be a pita IMHO. Rack still looks and functions great after 2 years of ownership. There is some aging on the lock bars and pivot bolts but just cosmetic. All aluminum bits still look awesome.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I too ride that frequently, but then again if I'm going for a full day ride I pop the rack and toss it in the trunk. I guess I'm well versed in removing and installing it as i can do either in under two minutes.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

edthesped said:


> I see one other local car that always has the 1up in their hitch and scratch my head as to why when it's so easy to remove


I almost never remove mine. My garage is so small, I have a hard time storing it out of the way. I can think of a couple of ways, but how do you store your 1up rack?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

hatake said:


> I almost never remove mine. My garage is so small, I have a hard time storing it out of the way. I can think of a couple of ways, but how do you store your 1up rack?


I have a cheapo Ikea set of shelves that i put them on.

edit: These are the shelves I use.









I have a 2" double 1up rack and 1 tray on the bottom shelf and a 1 1/4 single rack and 1 tray on the second shelf, (I use the 1 1/4 rack with a second tray mostly as I no longer have a vehicle with a 2" receiver) Not that it matters much but I have 6 shelves on my unit not 4 as shown in the picture.


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## PerfectZero (Jul 22, 2010)

Has anyone tried moving the pins at the ends of the arms? This seems super easy to do, but as usual I'm hesitant to change anything from the factory setup. I loaded up my 26er for the first time yesterday and found the arms _almost_ get jammed perfectly under my rotors.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

If you are running a 26er most of the time and your friends are also riding them, it would be worth your time to move the bolts. Otherwise you should just make sure you center the bike on the rack better and it won't get so close to the rotors.


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

I just got my 1up quick rack with an add on and am loving the quality and how sturdy it is. I have read this complete thread and have seen many people post about using a u-lock to prevent theft and as a device to stop the rack from sliding out if the retaining bolt loosened up. I haven't seen this mentioned and it may be a new feature, but where the security allen bolt is to secure the rack to the hitch the 1 1/4" tube protrudes a bit (3/4" or so) and there is a hole drilled through it where it appears you can add a pad lock, effectively blocking anyone from removing the rack if they happened to have a tool. Has anyone noticed this on that latest racks?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

Here is a picture of what I'm talking about above.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

C-Note said:


> Here is a picture of what I'm talking about above.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This feature was on the add-on adapter I just received too.

Since it's not shown on their website, my guess was that it's for a long-shank padlock? Good idea I think!


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

That is my feeling too. Fixes the issue of some one with a "security" allen wrench form taking the rack, but does not keep the rack from moving if the bolt comes loose. Coming loose is not something I am really worried about and personally I think the velcro strap would stop the rack from falling out. I just wish they had a hole like this to lock the rack and the add on tray together as those bolt could easily be removed with vice grips or the like.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Finally joined the hitch rack and 1up group after years of putting bikes inside my car. There's been 90 pages of glorifying the rack so I won't say much more than the hype is real, and this is one of the best bike related purchases I've ever made.

I do have a question for any other prius owners, how much depth does your 1up have into your receiver? It seems like an excessive amount of the rack is showing, but I don't know if that's normal for the small class 1 hitch receiver.

Sorry about potato quality cell phone pic.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Welcome to the club. I just got a fat bike adapter for my rack.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Just spent a pretty chunk of my Tax Return (which still hasn't been accepted by the feds. . .)

Got the 1.25" rack and the add-on in silver. Going to use it on both my Pontiac Vibe (aka toyota matrix) and my Tacoma. 

My wife has a hell of a time getting her bike onto the top of the Tacoma shell (we have a platform bed in the back). I really like not having to take the wheels on and off, and trying to find a place to store the wheels and not worrying about the discs getting smashed by something in the back of our truck/car. Now we just need to pay even more attention when backing up. . .did you read that babe?


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Fluidworks said:


> Finally joined the hitch rack and 1up group after years of putting bikes inside my car. There's been 90 pages of glorifying the rack so I won't say much more than the hype is real, and this is one of the best bike related purchases I've ever made.


Welcome to the club!


Fluidworks said:


> I do have a question for any other prius owners, how much depth does your 1up have into your receiver? It seems like an excessive amount of the rack is showing, but I don't know if that's normal for the small class 1 hitch receiver.


Doesn't matter how much is showing. Only matters how much is inserted - at least 4.375" with the ball inserted at least 2".


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## Jmp450 (Aug 2, 2014)

Hi was wondering who has one here in Vegas. My question is how has it held up shuttling up and down bootleg, does it hold the bikes securely going up and down that rough ass dirt road? Thanks in advance guys.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

It is off road rated. I don't know of any other rack that can claim that. We beat the crap out of a Thule T2 and a 1up on the White Rim in Moab. The T2 didn't make it out unscathed and the bikes on it took a beating. The 1up just needed to be rinsed off and the bikes were perfectly fine.


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## Jmp450 (Aug 2, 2014)

Good to know been really interested in getting one. Thanks for response.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I don't know the link but I recall seeing a vidoe on youtube of a Jeep Wrangler with a 1UP rack carrying at least 2 bikes jumping a dirt ramp and caught some air, landed, and rack and bikes were fine. I think it was a 2" receiver version, not the 1-1/4" with an adapter.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Jmp450 said:


> Hi was wondering who has one here in Vegas. My question is how has it held up shuttling up and down bootleg, does it hold the bikes securely going up and down that rough ass dirt road? Thanks in advance guys.


That rack will out-last your vehicle. . .guaranteed!

I can't imagine shuttling at Bootleg, the "XC" trails are so fun, up and down!


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## Jmp450 (Aug 2, 2014)

I agree all the trails out there are awesome we do both pedal from bottom and shuttle we mix it up. Thanks for all the feed back guys. Pretty sure gonna pull trigger on it next month.


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

There is a picture in this thread some place that shows a truck that rolled with a 1up rack with a bike in it and the rack and bike survived. That is saying something.


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## kylen721 (Oct 10, 2007)

I've looked through the last 20 pages but I couldn't find a reason why the black is $50 more than the silver. I have been debating on the T2, Sherpa, or 1up. But I definitely like the 1up most so far just trying to figure out how to justify why black is more expensive.


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## Jmp450 (Aug 2, 2014)

I saw that. Just it's expensive so just getting more reasons to justify price lol.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Treating aluminum, whether it be painting or anodizing, is going to require a bit more for the manufacturers. 

I think the black looks great, but I remember somebody in this forum saying that their black rack started to fade, while the raw aluminum ones look great after years of use.

The fact that the 1up is cheaper than many of the plastic racks from Kuat, Thule and Yakima is reason enough to buy the 1up, being that the 1up is made in the US out of all metal parts sealed the deal for me!


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*kylen721*, I felt the same way, so I saved $50 and purchased the silver. 
Best rack I will ever have !


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## kylen721 (Oct 10, 2007)

jp08865 said:


> *kylen721*, I felt the same way, so I saved $50 and purchased the silver.
> Best rack I will ever have !


I just really hate silver for some reason. Dark Gray car with all the chrome blacked out I just can't put a silver rack on it.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

kylen721 said:


> I just really hate silver for some reason. Dark Gray car with all the chrome blacked out I just can't put a silver rack on it.


I'm in the same boat, have dark car and black trim, and like estethics. But the more I thought about it, I don't really want my rack to blend in to the vehicle. I'd rather have it more visible as I live in a populated area with lots of traffic. Just feel it's less chance of some daydreaming tailgater ramming it. Loaded it up with DOT tape reflrectors so it is highly visible at night. It is designed well enough to unbolt it, fold it up and put in trunk in about 3 minutes when not using it.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

I was probably the person talking about fading. I bought a black one a couple years back after selling my silver one to a buddy (who's still using it).

Not sure if they've changed the process, but mine faded really quickly to something of a rubbed bronze finish almost. I leave mine on all the time and live in the AZ sun, but it's something to consider.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

The anodized ones faded and they no longer do it that way. Now they powder coat them and the paint chips off.


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## Hextall (Nov 25, 2013)

I got mine a couple weeks ago, and couldn't be happier with the decision. I am switching it between mine and my wife's car, one with 1 1/4" and one with 2". It's a breeze going back and forth.

I also got an add-on and the fat bike adapters. I'm slightly nervous about it somehow working its way loose from the receiver, even with the velcro strap. I haven't scoured this whole thread, but I assume that this is just me over worrying.

I guess my only complaint would be that swapping the fatbike spacers in and out isn't a trivial process. I just got my fatbike, and have no plans to ride it much in the summer over my other bike... but plans change. *Anyone use the fatbike spacer kit all year round and with other bikes (road and skinny MTB)?*

Obligatory photo:


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Yes, just leave in the fat bike spacers. It still works with road bikes.


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## Creeker7 (Nov 11, 2014)

Blatant said:


> I was probably the person talking about fading. I bought a black one a couple years back after selling my silver one to a buddy (who's still using it).
> 
> Not sure if they've changed the process, but mine faded really quickly to something of a rubbed bronze finish almost. I leave mine on all the time and live in the AZ sun, but it's something to consider.


Hey, Blatant...Where in AZ do you live? I'd love to see what your's looks like in person if you are in the Phoenix area. I've been looking at these racks for a month now but sure would like to see one in person before spending the $$$.

Thanks.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Scottsdale. All you have to do is go to South Mountain and/or any of the PMP parking lots on a busy morning. Seems like half the riders in AZ sports One Up racks these days.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

The biggest reason I'm getting a 1up is due to all the Kuats I've seen in Tahoe, the look like crap after a short period of time. The rubber/foam material Kuat uses is way too fragile. 

All of the 1ups I've seen pretty much live on the vehicle and look great!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

unrooted said:


> All of the 1ups I've seen pretty much live on the vehicle and look great!


I live in the North East and mine stays on my truck all year round. Aside from a little oxidation on the slide lock bars and the nuts/bolts - all still looks and functions perfectly.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Heading to Vegas for the weekend tonight! Unfortunatley only my wife gets to mountain bike cause I'll be rock climbing. . .


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## Jmp450 (Aug 2, 2014)

Well you guys convinced me decided to join the club and placed order for the rack.


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## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

Stryder75 said:


> Finally purchased a 1up and wish I had done it years ago! The rack is a machined piece of art and is such a pleasure to load and unload. I am coming from a fork mount roof rack with a quick release fork bike. I decided when I got my new ride with thru axels I wasn't going to do the roof rack front wheel removal with adapter crap. Wish I had come to that conclusion sooner. Great rack and I will be getting an add on soon.
> View attachment 913863


Stryder75; can you or any other Outback owners tell me if you're able to put the rack up in the vertical position (1 or 2 bike config) without hitting the rear of the vehicle? I plan to leave the rack on all the time, so this would be a major consideration as to whether I go with the 1up. Thanks much.


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## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

Outback owners; can anyone tell me if you're able to put the rack up in the full vertical position (1 or 2 bike config) without hitting the rear of the vehicle? I plan to leave the rack on all the time, so this would be a major consideration as to whether I go with the 1up. Thanks much.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

unrooted said:


> The biggest reason I'm getting a 1up is due to all the Kuats I've seen in Tahoe, the look like crap after a short period of time. The rubber/foam material Kuat uses is way too fragile.
> 
> All of the 1ups I've seen pretty much live on the vehicle and look great!


Mine stays on pretty much all year, too. No plastic to fade.

I'm debating buying the fatbike spacers for my 2nd tray. I don't own a fatbike but I've borrowed one a couple of times, and it sucks to have a rack that doesn't work.


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

ltspd1 said:


> Outback owners; can anyone tell me if you're able to put the rack up in the full vertical position (1 or 2 bike config) without hitting the rear of the vehicle? I plan to leave the rack on all the time, so this would be a major consideration as to whether I go with the 1up. Thanks much.


I don't have an Outback, but a Forester and I have a two tray system and am able to fold up the rack without hitting the bumper with no problem, the best part is you only have to fold it down to the half way mark to open the hatch...the bad part is it fully covers the license plate when folded up. I don't leave mine on all the time, so I got one of these to go with the rack so I can put it in the exact same spot every time. 1UPUSA.com :: 1 1/4" Hitch Bar Stop


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

My general rule is to not leave any threaded hole empty if it will be exposed to outside conditions. So yes, it bothered me, and I have a place holder fastener in it to guard the threads.



unrooted said:


> I bought the 1 1/4 rack and an add-on and the bolts came with the add-on. You could go to a hardware store and find some stainless bolts with the proper threading to fill in those holes if you feel the need. I take my bolts out if I'm running one tray so I don't lose the bolts. . .
> 
> Does it bother you that the center hole is empty?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

My roof rack is now a hitch rack add-on. Sweet feature, this rack being somewhat modular.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> My roof rack is now a hitch rack add-on. Sweet feature, this rack being somewhat modular.
> 
> View attachment 970480
> 
> ...


Wait a minute. Are you saying there's an adapter that will convert a roof mounted 1UP rack to a hitch mounted add-on? How did I miss this?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> Wait a minute. Are you saying there's an adapter that will convert a roof mounted 1UP rack to a hitch mounted add-on? How did I miss this?


That's exactly what I'm sayin'! $75, and gotta email to purchase. Not on the website. They have a frame to convert one into a single stand-alone, too. $175 for that.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> That's exactly what I'm sayin'! $75, and gotta email to purchase. Not on the website. They have a frame to convert one into a single stand-alone, too. $175 for that.


Why don't they have them on their website? I would have gone that way instead. Damn it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> They have a frame to convert one into a single stand-alone, too. $175 for that.


Not quite sure what you mean by this.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> Not quite sure what you mean by this.


The one pictured is an add-on. They also sell an adaptor (frame) that goes directly into your hitch receiver, turning a roof rack into a single hitch rack.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> The one pictured is an add-on. They also sell an adaptor (frame) that goes directly into your hitch receiver, turning a roof rack into a single hitch rack.


Oh wow. Why don't they have them on their site. So pissed.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> Oh wow. Why don't they have them on their site. So pissed.


If it's a small company, assume their website isn't up to date. Maybe it's because I'm from California and In 'n Out has taught me to be skeptical of the limits of the posted offerings.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

Had my first major issue tonight. I've had an ongoing problem where the pivot bolt on my right tray would constantly loosen, so I was retightening pretty constantly. I don't keep the rack in 24/7 and it has never been hit or backed into. While annoying, it was never a big enough deal for me to do anything about it.

Today I noticed with it was empty and folded up the tray had enough play that is actually lifted up over the blue retaining tab. As a result the tray could sag down below the straight line. It gouged the tray up some but I was able to pop it back and tighten. Later in the night as I was driving home from work I heard a clonk noise and saw sparks from my mirror. When I pulled over sure enough the same thing happened where the tray was loose enough it slipped over the tab, and then pivoted so it was scraping against the freeway at 65mph. As a result the bottom corner of the tray is sanded away.

I'm pretty bummed here as I've had the rack for only a couple months. It still functions, but I can't keep it unloaded and folded up without this continually happening.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Definitely contact the company. They're very responsive and helpful. I had a bolt break on me when I was installing the fat bike adapter and they sent me a replacement one right away.


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## downhill502 (Feb 22, 2012)

^ Or just use red loctite the next time you have a fastener constantly loosening up on you.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

Fluidworks said:


> Today I noticed with it was empty and folded up the tray had enough play that is actually lifted up over the blue retaining tab. As a result the tray could sag down below the straight line.


Thanks for posting this. I never thought about the blue tabs keeping the trays from falling down when the rack is on the hitch in the "stowed" position. I just checked my rack and I had forgot to put the blue tabs in the locked position. Luckily my trays are relatively difficult to rotate.

From your description, I think the nylok nut is defective. I can see the nylok nut becoming somewhat loose, but not to the point the tray could develop enough play to lift over the blue tab.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

downhill502 said:


> ^ Or just use red loctite the next time you have a fastener constantly loosening up on you.


+1 ... No-brainer, right?


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## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

Huge wealth of info in this thread, 

Can anyone tell me how the standard 1up rack fits on a BMW x5 (e70) with factory 2" hitch? 

Likewise, im thinking of getting the super duty because of the solid 2" mount instead of the adapter. I know its a little more money and weight, but sooner have it more solid... thoughts?

Thanks,


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

m3the01 said:


> Huge wealth of info in this thread,
> 
> Can anyone tell me how the standard 1up rack fits on a BMW x5 (e70) with factory 2" hitch?
> 
> ...


No problem, fits great. My wife's car is a 2008 X5 with a Curtis 2" receiver on it. I have the adaptor version that takes 4 bikes and fits either 1.25 or 2.00" hitch. With one bike or two bikes on it's a super trim package, folds up nicely along the bumper and you can open the tail gate with no problems.

Only issue is like any car with park distance sensors, it thinks you're going to back up into something. At first I was going to get that turned off with the trailering package, but I decided to not do that. I wanted to be reminded that the sensors were off so I'd be more careful backing up.

J.


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## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

Thanks for the details... Any pics? I think the curt hitch sticks out a little more than OEM. No issues with handlebars? Running 740mm now...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I don't have any pictures handy. That said, there is no issue with length under the bumper. The rack has plenty of length to accommodate different receiver positions (I presume that was your concern). No issues with fit agains the vehicle when bikes are on board. 740mm is 29" and I'd have to say that as I remember there is substantially more room than 15" center of first tray to vehicle. It's also worthy to note that where the handlebars are positioned vertically against the vehicle is where the vehicle has a sloping rear window which also gives more room. With the 1UpUSA rack, the bikes sit up fairly high against the vehicle.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> If it's a small company, assume their website isn't up to date. Maybe it's because I'm from California and In 'n Out has taught me to be skeptical of the limits of the posted offerings.


I emailed them and asked about the adapter to convert a roof mounted rack to an add-on and got no response. Maybe they'll only let the people who have purchased a roof rack know about it.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> I emailed them and asked about the adapter to convert a roof mounted rack to an add-on and got no response. Maybe they'll only let the people who have purchased a roof rack know about it.


Perhaps, but it could be just that they're sometimes slow to respond.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Are you sure that the roof racks can be converted to an add-on?

The one I have was probably the first roof rack they did and I convinced them to do that for mine. The new roof racks are completely different.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Are you sure that the roof racks can be converted to an add-on?
> 
> The one I have was probably the first roof rack they did and I convinced them to do that for mine. The new roof racks are completely different.
> 
> J.


Check out post #2422.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

JohnJ80 said:


> Are you sure that the roof racks can be converted to an add-on?
> 
> The one I have was probably the first roof rack they did and I convinced them to do that for mine. The new roof racks are completely different.
> 
> J.


Assuming I have a "new" roof tray (purchased in March '14), it has a groove for carriage bolts that run the length of the tray for an infinite number of positions along almost any crossbar that I can think of. The adapter is a simple frame with a tilted mounting plate with two holes. The bolts hang from the tray, go thru the plate, and a lock nut secures on the underside. Winds up looking much like a regular add-on, except without the ability to fold (and the accompanying hardware), since the tray is one solid piece.

Pretty simple, really!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

kragu said:


> Assuming I have a "new" roof tray (purchased in March '14), it has a groove for carriage bolts that run the length of the tray for an infinite number of positions along almost any crossbar that I can think of. The adapter is a simple frame with a tilted mounting plate with two holes. The bolts hang from the tray, go thru the plate, and a lock nut secures on the underside. Winds up looking much like a regular add-on, except without the ability to fold (and the accompanying hardware), since the tray is one solid piece.
> 
> Pretty simple, really!


The beauty is in its simplicity.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

downhill502 said:


> ^ Or just use red loctite the next time you have a fastener constantly loosening up on you.





kragu said:


> +1 ... No-brainer, right?


While condescending, I appreciate the obvious statements. Loctite was the first band aid I used, which worked for a while until the loosening commenced. Short of epoxying in place, there wasn't much more to be done.

Anyways, I emailed 1Up earlier this week with photos and descriptions, and just received word that they were sending me a new locking arm, fastening bolts for the arm, and fastening bolt for the tray. They confirmed they loctite they tray bolt while setting up, and that even loosened, the tray should not have had as much up and down play that it should be able to hop over the blue tab.

Really cemented for me my trust in the company and their product, top notch.

Also, if you're having trouble receiving word from email, just be patient. The guy told me today they switched over email servers and as a result there had been a backlog of unanswered.


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## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

Does one need the hitch limiter? Does it make installation easier? 

Likewise, how are the wheel locks and the which locks are people finding most useful? Ordering today,


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

I thought about the hitch limiter, but didn't get one and feel I don't need it. Seems pretty easy to spot where I want to stop insertion. You could even just mark the tubing if you really wanted. Sure, if you like to just slam stuff home w/out thinking the limiter would be good....but if you spend 15 seconds to do it a touch more carefully, I can't see the issue. 

I do have it on a subaru xv using the bumper cutout, and hitting the muffler if inserted too far is a reality - so I definitely considered it.

Locks ... still thinking about that one. Ease of use vs. security is the usual compromise. I'm thinking chain/ulock ... but the wheel locks could be great for that 5 minutes in a low risk area. ( with QRs ... too easy to just take frame and leave wheels behind )


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I use a u lock to connect the rack to the Curt hitch. I then use the long yellow and black cable lock that 1 up sells on their website. It's long enough to go through the Curt hitch, 2 bike frames and all four wheels. I'd get a second one and hook them together if I had 4 bikes. It's one of the best and easiest cable locks I've ever seen/used.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I have the snake lock and it is okay. The wheel locks look okay, but seem expensive.


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## SnowBound (Apr 1, 2007)

For the 1up owners using a 1.25" with adapter for a 2" receiver, has anyone noticed the rack tilted down a bit on the right side?


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Mine doesn't do that.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Anyone using the holes in the square around the security bolt to run a lock through?


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## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

SnowBound said:


> For the 1up owners using a 1.25" with adapter for a 2" receiver, has anyone noticed the rack tilted down a bit on the right side?


When mine is fully tightened it tilts just slightly down on the left side (as you're facing the vehicle's rear.). It bothered me at first, but it's just so solid and unmovable when tightened, I quit worrying about it.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Apologies if this has been asked/answered before, but I'm heading out the door so I thought I'd just ask. Has anyone noticed some front to back play in their racks when the bike is mounted? Like if I push against the bike towards the front of my car it moves front and back a little? I also notice it jiggles around some when I hit bumps on the road. And just to clarify, the movement is in the rack itself, not where it attaches to my hitch.


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## SnowBound (Apr 1, 2007)

ltspd1 said:


> When mine is fully tightened it tilts just slightly down on the left side (as you're facing the vehicle's rear.). It bothered me at first, but it's just so solid and unmovable when tightened, I quit worrying about it.


Thanks ltspd1, I should stop worrying about it too. You're right, the rack is very solid and doesn't move at all when tightened down, just irked me a bit since we paid a premium for the 1up vs other racks.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

SnowBound said:


> For the 1up owners using a 1.25" with adapter for a 2" receiver, has anyone noticed the rack tilted down a bit on the right side?


Mine doesn't tilt, but others in this thread have mentioned the hitch itself can be tilted. You wouldn't notice with a trailer, but you would with something like the 1up installed. Try it another hitch as a sanity check.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

The tilting may actually be a variance in your hitch. On my old car the rack was tilted but on my present car, no tilt. Hitch was only thing different.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

It tilts because the hitch is slightly wider and the ball lock would effectively expand one corner to hold the hitch tight. So a slight tilt is by design.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Just some rack eye candy:


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

Kragu how about one with a bike on it. Wow weather looks nice where you are


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Looks great.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

hans2vt said:


> Kragu how about one with a bike on it. Wow weather looks nice where you are


Pffft! Bikes? Who needs those?

Getting a little dark...

































Looks like the bike sticks out well past the car, and it does, but it's well inside the side mirrors. That's a medium 29er.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

And.... Thanks to this "Long Ass Thread"


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

I did the hitch install on my Fiest ST today using the DrawTite (Hidden Hitch / Uhaul) version because it seemed like people were getting closest to no exhaust clucking this way. I got the XL kartboy hanger as mentioned in some Fiesta forums to drop the muffler down a bit.

Hitch came from CARiD.com. The picture is backwards, but it's the right part. It came loose in a big box and was beat to crap, but I wanted to de-sticker it and paint it rustoleum satin black anyway:
Draw-Tite® 24855 - Class 1 Sportframe Trailer Hitch with 1-1/4" Receiver Opening (200/2000 Weight Capacity)

The new exhaust hanger came from here. It went on easily with some silicone spray.
Kartboy dot com :: Subaru Forester :: 2000-2005 Forester :: Kartboy Exhaust Hanger 12mm EXTRA LONG Single (BLACK)

I also put in a wiring kit for my velco mounted lights. Good instructions. Went in without issue.
Amazon.com: Curt 56191 T-Connector: Automotive

Good news is there is no clunking yet! I spent some time moving the hitch to the left and right trying to get it centered between clunking on the left and clunking on the right as I wiggled the muffler back and forth. In the end it was pretty much centered in the slots in the brackets. I also relieved the right lower valence tab where it contacted the horizontal cross bar. I drilled a hole, then cut on each side. Hopefully this will keep it from tearing through. Hitch install pics here:
Any hitch luck yet? - Page 6

The 1up adapter seems to work well. Now I can use one or two of my add-ons from the 4 place rack we use on the other car. And, yes, you can put a long shackle pad lock through the hole in front of the mounting bolt.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

I got mine a couple of weeks ago.

The car is a FIAT Grande Punto.


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## KaSaBiS (Mar 23, 2015)

Cannot believe how HUGE this thread is. Ill add to it as I want to see it break 100.

I Installed a curt hitch (uhaul purchace) on my 2011 jetta sportwagen jsw over the weekend, and just ordered my setup from 1upusa. Expensive as all hell but I still came in under what it would have been.

I ordered a roof rack and the 175$ hitch (not on their website) so I can run it as a hitch now, and if my next car does not have a hitch, I can use it as a roof rack. 70 extra dollars for a bit of 'future proofing'

Downside: 1 bike hitch rack total cost me $461!! (hitch=90, bike roof rack=189, special hitch=175, 7$ shipping). Hope to have it by the weekend. Pics soon to follow


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

*Can the 1up hitch rack convert to become a quick add-on attachment?*

Can the 1up hitch rack convert to become a quick add-on attachment?

For example, if Car-A and Car-B are both equipped with single 1up hitch racks, and the person in Car-B wants to carpool to the trail in Car-A, can the Car-B rack attach to the Car-A rack as an add-on?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

No. The base 1up can not come off the main mechanism.


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

Silentfoe said:


> No. The base 1up can not come off the main mechanism.


Lightening fast response!

Well that sucks. I'd imagine it would help with market share if that feature was available. I usually carpool 2-3 deep and nobody wants to spend $500-$700 on racks. It would be a much easier sell if we could spend $300 individually while having the flexibility of carpooling with our bikes.

Oh well... :nonod:


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Technically, you can make it work. It just wouldn't be cost effective. 

1. Buy single roof rack ($189)
2. Buy roof rack/hitch add-on adapter ($75, must email/call to purchase)
3a. Buy Quick Rack add-on adapter ($89)
or
3b. Buy hitch assembly ($175, must email/call to purchase)

The roof rack tray doesn't fold in half, so while you gain modularity, you lose that feature.

If you go 3a, you lose the ability to fold up the rack. If you go 3b, you get that functionality. Also with 3b, you won't need #2 if you don't plan to add your rack to someone else's, but you asked specifically about that so I included it either way. You'll need it if you go 3a. 

If you have a bunch of single buddies who don't need the ability to fold up the rack, 1, 2, and 3a would give you all the ability to use each other's racks. That's like $300.


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

kragu said:


> 1. Buy single roof rack ($189)
> 2. Buy roof rack/hitch add-on adapter ($75, must email/call to purchase)
> 3a. Buy Quick Rack add-on adapter ($89)
> or
> 3b. Buy hitch assembly ($175, must email/call to purchase)


Nice work around and creative thinking. Unfortunately nobody is going to want to be the guy that buys the roof rack at the expense of portability and zero cost savings.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

RacerLex said:


> Nice work around and creative thinking. Unfortunately nobody is going to want to be the guy that buys the roof rack at the expense of portability and zero cost savings.


Yep. I arrived at those options because I came from a roof rack and wanted to be able to reuse it in a new system. Wound up getting a single hitch and an add on adapter frame.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

So what would be a good price for the silver version of the 1up, single rack, that I bought 2-3 years ago, and hardly used, its in mint condition, have a friend that wants to buy it and I want to make sure we both get a good deal. Barely Used price?


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

ChrisMc73 said:


> Barely Used price?


Best friend - $Free
Good friend - $100
Friend - $150
Public - $200


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

Ok thanks for your inputs.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

ChrisMc73 said:


> So what would be a good price for the silver version of the 1up, single rack, that I bought 2-3 years ago, and hardly used, its in mint condition, have a friend that wants to buy it and I want to make sure we both get a good deal. Barely Used price?


One just sold on ebay for $255 plus shipping.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I would've given you $400 for it. . .2 months ago.


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## ChrisMc73 (Jun 6, 2011)

unrooted said:


> I would've given you $400 for it. . .2 months ago.


Were they hard to get?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ChrisMc73 said:


> Were they hard to get?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The anodized finish on the older version (about 2 years ago) is better than the current version (Powder coat) so to those in the know will pay more for the older anodized version. I got lucky and got one of the last anodized versions along with an add-on before they switched to the cheaper powder coat process.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

tonyride1 said:


> The anodized finish on the older version (about 2 years ago) is better than the current version (Powder coat) so to those in the know will pay more for the older anodized version. I got lucky and got one of the last anodized versions along with an add-on before they switched to the cheaper powder coat process.


Agreed - if the one you are selling is the anodized finish vs powder coated, it is almost worth a premium. That said, a new one is $299 + shipping. Probably hard to truly convince him to pay MORE for a used one, even if I agree that anodized is better. $250 would be very fair for him and good for you if he is a good friend. Just an acquaintance? - then explain that anodized is WAY better and go for $275!

I bought my rack (double) when it was anodized. 1-2 years later I bought two extensions; by then they had changed to powder coating. HUGE difference, IMHO. Kicked myself for not just buying them originally knowing that I would have needed them eventually. I did not know the change in finish was coming, however, so I figured I would delay the expense. Oh well, still a great rack system.


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## Prexus2005 (Mar 18, 2005)

Wait, the new ones aren't anodized? was about to order it... it still says they are anodized I thought.. glad I read your post Tony. 

Way back when they didn't have a black version, I called them every week or so to bug them to make it in black. Of course I'm sure others must have done the same.

Hmm... so i guess silver is the way to go and I'll save $50/$100 and just spray some enamel. (yes, I know not to spray where it would create problems.)


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## dizmalmazes (Sep 13, 2013)

*Finally!*

Holy Crap This Thread Is Long!!!
I read all 100 pages.
Mainly because I was concerned about the finish on the black. Seems like it is still hit and miss on the powder coated trays though. Just put in my order, so we'll see.

It was between the 1Up, the Yakima Holdup, or the Raxter for me. 
I liked the Kuat NV but it is just massive looking even on a full sized truck. I couldn't even picture it on my orange XV Crosstrek. Also I hate the White, and the black was almost impossible to find. Not to mention I read quite a few bad things about their plastic parts. 
Liked the Holdup (Yakima fan) but its steel and will always cover my license plate. I'm the type that will leave it on most of the time during the season.
Almost went with the Raxter, but it's steel again and was between 450 and 500 after shipping and taxes.
So I thought Screw it, I'll go top of the line. I'm a cheap SOB but figure this will last longer than all the others so it will be worth it.
Bought the 2" SuperD and an add on in black. I pretty much always carry 2 bikes. Almost went with the Full Double 2" but thought I'd get the single in case I ever want to go low profile with 1 bike. Now I Just cant wait for it to get here.


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## AKPeach (Jan 6, 2014)

I love my 1-Up except for the paint coming off from studded fat bike tires. My rack is on the car 24/7/365 as I road, mountain and fat tire bike. I like that it accommodates ALL my bikes, it is so easy to use and doesn't touch anything but the tires. Everyone wants to know where I got it and many are quite envious. Seeing more and more of them in Anchorage. I won't need any other rack for a very long time.

We put the rack on my BF's car for a trip to the Magic 142 Bus and he hasn't put it back on my car yet.  He want's one....badly.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Prexus2005 said:


> Wait, the new ones aren't anodized? was about to order it... it still says they are anodized I thought.. glad I read your post Tony.
> 
> Way back when they didn't have a black version, I called them every week or so to bug them to make it in black. Of course I'm sure others must have done the same.
> 
> Hmm... so i guess silver is the way to go and I'll save $50/$100 and just spray some enamel. (yes, I know not to spray where it would create problems.)


The actual structure of the rack and the arms are still anodized. The only part that is powder coated is the tray that the tires rest on. Still hands down the best rack out there. The most modular, compact, and yet can easily accommodate various bikes. My brother had the Yakima hitch rack but our race mountain bikes wouldn't fit well - they were too similar in size and the handlebars and seats would hit no matter what. With the 1 Up rack, we can offset the bikes forward and have no interference. Plus the second bike is inherently stacked higher.
Powder coat or not, still highly recommend it! 

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I said I would pay $400 because my reading comprehension sucks. 

I bought a single rack and an add-on 2 months ago for $500.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Does anyone have any ideas on a quicker way to adjust for smaller wheel sizes (ie kids). Ratcheting the cross bar and moving it down a couple of holes is easy but takes a little time. So far this is the only little (I mean little) complaint I have about this rack. Otherwise - it's fantastic and meets all my needs.


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## AKPeach (Jan 6, 2014)

I wonder if you can purchase another set of 'holders' and keep them in a lower setting, or set of holes, to accommodate the smaller wheels? Or call 1-Up...I'm sure they can probably offer a solution.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

Yeah that's what I was thinking but I'm sure might be costly for the holders. But still you'd have to ratchet the holders off which will take some time. I was thinking some kind of QR system. I had a Yakima High Roller rack and the bar can be switched down by releasing a red lever and then locking it into place. A call or an email to 1up wouldn't be bad idea. Their customer service seems pretty good. Thanks!


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## AKPeach (Jan 6, 2014)

The fat tire adapter holders were $34/pair. Maybe you can just move the current ones down to accommodate more bikes. But I would definitely call them.


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## mmanuel09 (Nov 26, 2008)

I was thinking of coming up with some bolt thru idea with a clip at the end. Run it through the holes and then the clip it to lock it in. I will def. call them tomorrow.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Just use wing nuts.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

I've added some reflective strips.

Since I don't have an add on yet, I didn't care about putting one at the end of it.


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## Thmp Thmp (Jun 29, 2008)

The reflective tape is a great idea. I am going to look into that. For the people with black racks I know that they also make black reflective tape.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

mmanuel09 said:


> I was thinking of coming up with some bolt thru idea with a clip at the end. Run it through the holes and then the clip it to lock it in. I will def. call them tomorrow.


Pick up a Hitch Pin and Clip the proper length, done.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Thmp Thmp said:


> The reflective tape is a great idea. I am going to look into that. For the people with black racks I know that they also make black reflective tape.


That one is the 3M Scotchlite, it's black, but it reflects white, not red.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

jp08865 said:


> Pick up a Hitch Pin and Clip the proper length, done.


Nice idea.
I bought a ratcheting 1/2in wrench. That makes pretty quick work of the stock lock nuts.

I also have an extra set of rollers since I converted one of my add-on's to the wide version for my fat bike. I use the extra set of rollers to adjust for my kid's bike. That way I just add the extra roller 3 holes down and take it away for adult bikes. The original end roller just stays put now.








Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

For those that saw my earlier post it happened again.

Driving down the freeway with the rack empty and folded up. Once again, I heard a clonk noise and then the grinding sound of aluminum on asphalt. 

Pulled over and saw the damage. Same as before, somehow the tray got over/behind the blue tab and fell to the ground. This is after 1Up replaced the ground down parts, and the hardware holding it with new stuff. I made sure everything was Loctited and secured firmly. 

So, 1Up customer service once again did me right and sent me a prepaid shipping label, and I sent the whole rack back to them.

I forgot how much it sucks to have to put the bike inside the car.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

SasquatchSC: What size and threading are those bolts you replaced? Did you get it from ACE Hardware or some other place?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Fluidworks said:


> For those that saw my earlier post it happened again.
> 
> Driving down the freeway with the rack empty and folded up. Once again, I heard a clonk noise and then the grinding sound of aluminum on asphalt.
> 
> ...


When you say "folded up" you mean the trays are straight but it's in the upright position (vertical)? Did you engage the rotating lock on the tilt lock? Or did the blue tab someone allow the folding rack pieces to fold up (now down)?

J.


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## Fluidworks (Oct 3, 2008)

O


JohnJ80 said:


> When you say "folded up" you mean the trays are straight but it's in the upright position (vertical)? Did you engage the rotating lock on the tilt lock? Or did the blue tab someone allow the folding rack pieces to fold up (now down)?
> 
> J.


Yes, trays straight but platform vertical. Tabs were engaged, after the first time it happened I have been super careful with it.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Got slow speed rear ended at a traffic light today with my 1Up folded up on the back of the car (no bike on it, thank god). Not a mark on the rack at all, but punched a nice hole in the front bumper of the lady that was too busy texting to stop hehehe. Not even kidding, when the cop who was filing the accident report was interviewing me, he started asking about the rack. He was amazed it was undamaged, said he's been unhappy with his cheapo one, and may get one now. So go 1Up I guess


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Anyone else have problems with the rack coming loose when you drive rough roads??? 

I just did a week in Moab and every time I drove off road the hitch lock was loose. I took it apart to see if there was anything I could do and didn't find anything.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I practically took our car airborne at 80mph with four mountain bikes on it and nothing happened. 

What you do have to be careful of is paint in the receiver. The rack has a ball that presses into the corner of the hitch receiver to create friction to hold it. If the receiver has a lot of extra paint or junk/debris in there, you can compromise the friction. It is worthy to note that the tightening of the hitch is only to provide friction to hold it in the receiver. 

In general, with anything like this, it's a good idea to put it on and then check it at your first stop and re-tighten. After that, I can't imagine there would be a problem.

J.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

You can use an U lock to lock the rack to the car and on top of that a cable lock between the bikes, that way the rack won't be able to get off the hitch, it will be secured and also your bikes. 

I do that when I go to a place that isn't that safe.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ I use the mini U-Lock for my own peace of mind if the mechanism was to ever come loose. 3 years of service and still nothing. 

BTW, has anyone's ball in the rack surface rusted? Mine doesn't look pretty. I always squirt some lube in there yearly for it to operate smooth, but gone is its shiny finished, quite pitted.


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Anyone tray the Inno Tire Hold Hitch?

It works the same as the 1Up and its a $154 savings in black.

Inno Tire Hold Hitch - INH305 - Inno

For me, the 1Up looks good in black, but the up-charge for the finish is horrid. It looks like a turd in silver.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

It may be similar but there are big differences. It doesn't have the ability to carry 4 bikes, keeps them all flat and so your departure angle suffers and it appears to have plastic parts and doesn't have the ability to replace individual pieces should they break. It also can't carry a fat bike.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I'd be surprised to find more than one person in this thread (there's always one) that would rather have $154 and that rack than their 1up.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

eurospek said:


> BTW, has anyone's ball in the rack surface rusted? Mine doesn't look pretty. I always squirt some lube in there yearly for it to operate smooth, but gone is its shiny finished, quite pitted.


The purpose of the ball is to jam up into the corner of the hitch receiver and create friction so that the rack can't come out of the receiver. There is no way it's going to stay shiny and it's going to get beat up.

j


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> The purpose of the ball is to jam up into the corner of the hitch receiver and create friction so that the rack can't come out of the receiver. There is no way it's going to stay shiny and it's going to get beat up.
> 
> j


Actually the more beat up the ball is the better it will stay in the hitch.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> Actually the more beat up the ball is the better it will stay in the hitch.


Exactly.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

So my problem is with the bolt that pushes the ball keeps coming loose when I drive off road.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

unrooted said:


> So my problem is with the bolt that pushes the ball keeps coming loose when I drive off road.


I don't have this issue, but I do have a friend that does. Have you tried Loctite?


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I guess I'll have to try loctite. . .

I just emailed 1up and they responded quickly: here is the email chain:

Me: *just got back from a week in Moab. I purchased the 1up from you in january or february. The bolt that pushes the ball bearing into the hitch keeps coming loose when I drive on rough terrain. Is there an easy fix? *

1Up: *The adapter in a 2" receiver will loosen some on rough terrain. Never enough to fall out, and the Velcro strap will prevent that from happening as well.*

me:* I tightened the adapter as much as I could, then tightened the rack into the hitch as much as I could immediately before going down a dirt road, then checked it immediately after and it was loose again.

I'm not as much worried about the rack falling off the truck, but I'm more worried about the rack sliding into my truck while driving and having my bike come into contact with my truck.

This sounds like a known issue. Are you working on a fix?*

I would have to say I'm not terribly impressed with this issue. . . and the next time I get asked about the rack (which happens constantly) I'll let them know about the problem I'm having and suggest that they talk to someone with the 2" rack, or look into Kuat.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

unrooted said:


> I guess I'll have to try loctite. . .
> 
> I just emailed 1up and they responded quickly: here is the email chain:
> 
> ...


To be clear - are you putting the rack on and then tightening it. *Then after driving a while re-tightening it?*

I have the original 1UpUSA rack that could do both 1.25" and 2" and we've driven it for probably 15,000 miles with no problems. However, when we put it on with a new receiver, we do as I write above. The check almost always needs another re-tightening and then it is tight for the trip. Subsequent uses with the receiver then need progressively less retightening. I attribute this to heavy paint and/or debris in the receiver that gets cleared or crushed so that it no longer allows for slop in the system.

Furthermore, the only purpose of the ball is to keep the rack tongue in the receiver. It is not load bearing in any way.

You could probably stop the whole problem and assure yourself that the rack would not slide in by using one of these:

1UPUSA.com :: 2" Hitch Bar Stop

Also, it's going to be just about impossible for 1UpUSA or any company to plan for off road forces. It all depends on how you drive and how much "off road" it is. There is just too much variance. In fact, if I recall correctly, most (if not all) rack manufacturers warranty the rack for paved road or smooth gravel road and not for off road use.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I think it's a poor design.


If it's a known issue then 1up should include the bar stop with the rack, in my not so humble opinion.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I presume then, that you did not retighten the rack after driving. This is sort of good standard procedure for any rack or attachment anyhow. Please try that.

Since many rack manufacturers don't warranty the rack for usage off road, if 1UpUSA is does then it seems to me you are way ahead.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I did re-tighten the rack, every time I stopped. 

I just ordered the bar-stop, which I think should either be included with the rack, or something on their website should indicate that it is suggested or necessary.

overall I really like the rack, I just think that if the rack isn't suggested to be used off road then they should make it obvious on their website. 

But I should assume that if JohnJ80 bought the 1up then only an idiot would have a problem with the rack.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Just curious, did you ever inspect the inside of your hitch receiver? I'm wondering if there is loose material in there like rust or dirt because if the inside of the receiver is not clean then the rack cannot properly grip on to the ID of the receiver. Try taking a wired brush and just give the ID of the receiver a good scrubbing. This will also rough up the surface to help the rack grip better.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I'll do that Tony, but the receiver is clean and rust free. 

I'll get some lock-tite at least for the adapter bolt.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

unrooted said:


> I did re-tighten the rack, every time I stopped.
> 
> I just ordered the bar-stop, which I think should either be included with the rack, or something on their website should indicate that it is suggested or necessary.
> 
> ...


How would a manufacturer define "off road" and exactly what would that be? Dried up creek beds or smooth gravel roads or no roads at all? How would it be even possible to figure the loading and warranty something as broad as that?

So I'm not sure that is a reasonable expectation no matter who you think is an idiot or not. My point is that if the manufacturer doesn't reject you out of hand for using it off road then you're already ahead because most manufacturers apparently don't warranty it and didn't design their racks for it.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I emailed Kuat the following:

*I would like to know if you "rate" the 1 1/4" rack installed with the 2" adapter for offroad use.*

They responded with:

*This really depends on what you mean by offroad use. If you are talking dirt roads getting to your favorite trail, then yes the rack is recommended for that.

If you are talking about heavier offroading with mud pits with deep ruts and steep inclines, then no this is not recommended. The biggest reason for this is that with the constant up and down of the vehicle on these types of trails can put undue strain on the rack bouncing up and down plus there can be ground clearance issues.
*

I was driving on dirt roads that access some of the trails outside of Moab, even the tamest, washboard-ed, dirt roads would require me to re-crank the rack tighter.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

FWIW, mine is the single with an add-on, so it's a 1.25" with a 2" adaptor. I've never had an issue after the initial use. That (slight) loosening was probably due to the ball crushing the paint and putting a pit inside the receiver, and I'm careful to install to the same depth each time. I've taken mine across the country, including Moab, and driven plenty of washboard gravel here in Montana without issue. 

It sounds like you might have a bum unit, and I'd ask about swapping that mechanism out. I have a mini U lock that I use when I'm traveling, and that would prevent all but minimal movement in either direction.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Anyone have a recommendation on how to address what may be a ball that won't retract into the hitch bar? I tried to remove my rack (generally stays on car year-round) the other day and it was stuck. My thoughts were the ball is not retracting, or enough rust has built up inside the hitch that it's holding the whole thing in pretty tight.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Or you could try driving on dirt roads.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

evasive said:


> FWIW, mine is the single with an add-on, so it's a 1.25" with a 2" adaptor. I've never had an issue after the initial use. That (slight) loosening was probably due to the ball crushing the paint and putting a pit inside the receiver, and I'm careful to install to the same depth each time. I've taken mine across the country, including Moab, and driven plenty of washboard gravel here in Montana without issue.
> 
> It sounds like you might have a bum unit, and I'd ask about swapping that mechanism out. I have a mini U lock that I use when I'm traveling, and that would prevent all but minimal movement in either direction.


That's exactly my thought too. It's either the paint/debris issue or it's a defect in that particular rack. Presuming the off-road use is gravel roads - "smooth gravel roads" using Thule's phrasing - it should be fine. Otherwise as the response from kuat demonstrates, all bets are off which makes a lot of sense to me.

Fwiw, I've driven my racks down dirt and gravel roads and haven't had a problem either. That's a fully loaded 4 bike load too. But every time I've put it into a receiver it's not been in before, it loosens the first time or two.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

I've been a 1up owner for 2+ years, love it, never had a problem. With my hitch the rack bottoms in the same place every time I install it, so the ball locking it in contacts the same place each time. Maybe installing the stop will make it so the ball contacts the same spot eliminating any issue, so others enjoy the rack as much as myself & others.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Is this normal?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

It looks like there's some bulging around the ball; is that the case? If so, I'd say no. Haven't seen that with mine.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Yep, bulging around the ball. I emailed the picture to 1up to see what they say. I'm guessing they'll either say it's not an issue or it's my fault. I am not terribly impressed with them right now.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

unrooted said:


> I'm guessing they'll either say it's not an issue or it's my fault. I am not terribly impressed with them right now.


I'm guessing they'll take care of you.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

They must not be working today. . . Yesterday they responded immediately.


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## jrss13 (Aug 15, 2009)

I recently picked up a used black super duty rack plus add on. I just installed my hitch yesterday and then put the rack on. I am impressed with how easy it installs on the hitch receiver. There is some significant resistance when tilting the rack up or down (folding it). I see there is the adjustment that can lock it so it doesn't tilt. But I have it completely loosened and still have a fairly hard time tilting it when pulling up the black bar. Can anyone else comment if theirs is easy or hard to tilt? From watching videos, it seems like it shouldn't have much resistance?


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

easy to tilt. however almost all the things that move/swing/open/close have bolts that can be tightened or loosened. I would try adjusting those bolts. Just be careful you don't make something too loose...i think 1up errs on the side of keeping it tight.


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## jrss13 (Aug 15, 2009)

Perfect. Thank you. I'll loosen them slightly...


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Sweet!

Turns out that 1up has never seen a bulge around the ball of their rack. . . guess I'm lucky!

They are sending me a new hitch post, and I'll send them mine back. 

I still want to know what caused it, whether it has to do with my truck or cars receiver, the dirt roads I was driving or something screwy with the manufacturing of the hitch post.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Imagine that, they took care of you!


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

jrss13 said:


> I recently picked up a used black super duty rack plus add on. I just installed my hitch yesterday and then put the rack on. I am impressed with how easy it installs on the hitch receiver. There is some significant resistance when tilting the rack up or down (folding it). I see there is the adjustment that can lock it so it doesn't tilt. But I have it completely loosened and still have a fairly hard time tilting it when pulling up the black bar. Can anyone else comment if theirs is easy or hard to tilt? From watching videos, it seems like it shouldn't have much resistance?
> View attachment 981955


The only problem I ever have is that the bar you pull to let the rack tilt binds a little sometimes and doesn't retract all the way. Once I've made sure it has fully released, the rack tilts without difficulty.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

unrooted said:


> Sweet!
> 
> Turns out that 1up has never seen a bulge around the ball of their rack. . . guess I'm lucky!
> 
> ...


-----------
*unrooted:* Seems to me the only thing that would cause a bulge around the ball like that would be if your receiver is a little larger Inside than a normal receiver, thus forcing the ball to extend further out than normal to lock it into place and bulging the post.
-----------
*Also: a heads up to other owners.* I'd recommend removing the Safety Allen Bolts that come with the rack for 'an add on rack' if you are not using them. I went to remove mine today and they are seized. I should have removed them when new (2 years ago) or at least removed them and applied Anti-Seize.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Never thought of that. I'm going to have to go check my bolts.


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

kragu said:


> I'd be surprised to find more than one person in this thread (there's always one) that would rather have $154 and that rack than their 1up.


Personally, I came to the this thread to find out about what I thought was a budget rack, but I was shocked that black cost over $600.

Most of the time I just ride my bike. I dont drive it around. When I drive it around I like it in the hatch of my car, which is safer from theft, weighs less, more aerodynamic and its not going to hit or garage or get squished in a rear-ender (rare compared to the garage problem). Also cops my stop you if they think your licence plate is obscured by bikes.

Once in a blue moon I will ride with my other half and the really old no thrills Thule T2.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

JP: that was my thought as well I asked 1up if they wanted measurements of my receiver but they didn't respond. It was stock on my tacoma.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

New season, new car. Old rack, old bikes. Still the same amount of stoke for my trusty 1up rack.

And I've noticed that with the Curt hitch on the Passat, there is a ton less sway vertically when the roads get bumpy. I no longer use a stabilizing strap like I did previously on my WRX wagon with a Curt hitch. The Passat hitch design looks much beefier.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

Killroy said:


> Personally, I came to the this thread to find out about what I thought was a budget rack, but I was shocked that black cost over $600.
> 
> Most of the time I just ride my bike. I dont drive it around. When I drive it around I like it in the hatch of my car, which is safer from theft, weighs less, more aerodynamic and its not going to hit or garage or get squished in a rear-ender (rare compared to the garage problem). Also cops my stop you if they think your licence plate is obscured by bikes.
> 
> Once in a blue moon I will ride with my other half and the really old no thrills Thule T2.


So why are you still here?

I've had my 1UP HD rack with 3 trays on the back of my pickup now for over 3 years (with exception of about 10 days) now. Empty or full, up or down, the damn thing just works!

Just like ANY other piece of machinery, it required periodic attention to cleaning and maintenance. You do your part, and the rack will do its part.


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## Roost777 (Apr 21, 2015)

Newbie here ... !
I think this is the rack for me. Money not an object, functionality and strength is what matters:

I need a hitch mount rack that will hold 4 bikes for long family trips. 2 electric fat bikes (60lbs each, can remove battery and will be 52 lbs each) and 2 "normal" full suspension mtn. bikes. So far, I think this is the only rack that will hold the weight. Kuat says they can't handle it. Anyone hauling an electric fat bike or even something similiar to my situation?


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## Coaster Mech (Aug 23, 2014)

I believe the super duty is rated for 75lbs bikes. (Not sure if the addon rating is the same) this paired with the fat bike kit and you should be good to go!! 

You won't have any regrets!!

edit.... I just looked it up. It appears the rack is rated for 4 bikes 50 lbs or less. So I'm guessing a max of 200lbs. I would shoot them an email and ask them the same question. But I would go for it, u should be good!!


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

Maybe you should just buy real bikes........


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Electric bikes are great. . .at letting fat people pretend they are exercising. Thankfully the Feds are calling them motorized vehicles and won't let them on trails designated for non motorized traffic!


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## carlbren21 (May 2, 2015)

Hi Guys! New here, and just got my 1up 2 bike rack with 1 add on. I posted this on another thread but was hoping to get a quick answer! 

I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike. 

Is there a trick to getting them on without them hitting eachother? Maybe have one bike slid all the way to one side, while the other is slid all the way to the other? With my 29ers it didn't look like there was a lot of room to go one way or another? Maybe it's a slight learning curve with use, but thought I would ask here and let some experts chime in! Love how good the rack looks and the machining is fantastic. All the moving parts are flawless and super simple to use. I beleive I will love it, but want to figure out the best way to fit multiple large bikes on it.

I figured I could drop a seat to make it fit under the bars, but didn't want to mess with that every time I used it. Hope to get some help!


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## bluejudad (Sep 7, 2011)

Carlbren21.... I often carry three bikes. You're right that it's super easy with 27.5 or 26. However, I think you'll find that even the 29ers (as I have) can roll forward or back on the tray just enough to avoid contact with each other. Every once in a while, you might have to adjust the seat height. But, that is the exception, made easier of course with comand posts. What you'll find is that there is more room than you think to roll the bikes and when you start to trust that the bikes wont fall off, things will get easier. I've logged a ton of miles driving all over the Southwest and have never had an 'incident'. I still am in awe of this rack! Take care.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

carlbren21 said:


> Hi Guys! New here, and just got my 1up 2 bike rack with 1 add on. I posted this on another thread but was hoping to get a quick answer!
> 
> I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.
> 
> ...


Dropper posts. It seems all my riding buddies have them now , so it's not an issue anymore. Back when there weren't dropper posts, we would loosen the clamps and drop the saddles, or remove the seat post/saddle altogether.

Trying to alternate the position of the bikes might work, but it depends how much time and effort is spent I suppose. One way is going to be faster than the other.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

jp08865 said:


> -----------
> *unrooted:* Seems to me the only thing that would cause a bulge around the ball like that would be if your receiver is a little larger Inside than a normal receiver, thus forcing the ball to extend further out than normal to lock it into place and bulging the post.
> -----------
> *Also: a heads up to other owners.* I'd recommend removing the Safety Allen Bolts that come with the rack for 'an add on rack' if you are not using them. I went to remove mine today and they are seized. I should have removed them when new (2 years ago) or at least removed them and applied Anti-Seize.


Unless yours are truly seized, the security Cap Bolts are captive, and do not come out unless you remove the lock nut on the other side. It's so they can't loosen out and fall off. And they won't get lost.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

unrooted said:


> View attachment 981631
> Is this normal?


Is there a hole/void in your receiver where the ball could meet no resistance when tightening the bolt?

Tightening the bolt with nothing to push against is the only way I can see that happening. Remember, the one up is aluminum and that bolt can seriously leverage the ball against the inside of the hitch. If there isn't a receiver for the ball to stop against it can deform the socket of the aluminum it's inside of.


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

John said:


> Unless yours are truly seized, the security Cap Bolts are captive, and do not come out unless you remove the lock nut on the other side. It's so they can't loosen out and fall off. And they won't get lost.


I own one with seized bolts as do a few I ride with. As in they do not budge. I realize there is a nut on the bolt.

Should have removed them and applied anti seize years ago. They could also do this at the manufacturer. Aluminum and stainless make a good bond after a few years together. Galvonic corrosion.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

carlbren21 said:


> Hi Guys! New here, and just got my 1up 2 bike rack with 1 add on. I posted this on another thread but was hoping to get a quick answer!
> 
> I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.
> 
> ...


That is the beauty of this rack. My brother and I couldn't get our two 29ers to fit on the Yakima version. With this rack, I have fit combinations of various 29ers as well as 29 ers with 26, 24, and 20 in bikes. Just move each bike as far forward towards its front wheel side as possible. With the newer ridged locking bar design, I just engage the 2nd locking ridge on the side with the front. The side with the rear will engage a whole bunch more. Then to put the second bike, have the rear holder set where you think it will be and open the front all the way. Set the bike in displaced towards the front wheel and back it in. You should be able to lock the front tire holder on the second ridge before the bikes touch each other.


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

carlbren21 said:


> I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.
> 
> Is there a trick to getting them on without them hitting eachother? Maybe have one bike slid all the way to one side, while the other is slid all the way to the other?


Our experience has been as follows:

Place first bike on with bars to the left. Set it such that the center of the front tire is about 2" back from the edge of the rack. Set the arms.

Place second bike with bars to the right with approx. the same 2" back from the edge. Set the arms.

You have to figure out (at least for us) a proper orientation for the cranks on each bike to make sure they won't touch at all.

You may not have to put them out to the extremes to get full clearance... but that's where I started and refined the positioning from there.

Also, once you find the positions... which bike goes on first, second..., which way they should face, and where the front wheel should be relative to tray edge, you'll also bea ble to figure out the most efficient way of lifting and putting the bikes in...

AND finally, you figure out how far to open the arms to load up.... Just wide enough to get them in while minimizing how much they have to be closed to secure them.

LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my rack...

I can load 3 bikes in under 1 minute, no sweat...


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## carlbren21 (May 2, 2015)

cautery said:


> Our experience has been as follows:
> 
> Place first bike on with bars to the left. Set it such that the center of the front tire is about 2" back from the edge of the rack. Set the arms.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I will give them a shot And let you know how it goes, though I'm sure you know it should end well for me!


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

One more thing. To unload, I find it easiest to just open the front side far. The rear will hold the bike in place. Slide/roll the bike forward a bit then lift away. If I'm not in a busy area, I leave the rear one set so I can quickly through the bike in the same spot after the ride.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

albertdc said:


> One more thing. To unload, I find it easiest to just open the front side far. The rear will hold the bike in place. Slide/roll the bike forward a bit then lift away. If I'm not in a busy area, I leave the rear one set so I can quickly through the bike in the same spot after the ride.


That's exactly how I unload also.


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## carlbren21 (May 2, 2015)

tonyride1 said:


> That's exactly how I unload also.


Thanks for the help guys. I used it today, though with only the 1 bike set up, and it worked great. I got the double rack, with 1 add on, and 1 add on adapter to work as a single rack. I really like the modular aspect of the rack. Being able to throw it on for one bike and go, in only a minute or two, is very nice. The ease of use with the mounting and dismounting is great as well. I like the idea of only lowering the front bar to remove the bike and leave the other one be. Will give it a shot tomorrow when I will be hauling 3 bikes.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Hard to believe you'd have a problem if you alternate the bikes and adjust side to side as recommended. Just takes a little practice - these are awesome racks.

J.


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## KickIt (May 5, 2015)

What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).

From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.


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## csimon (Apr 14, 2014)

I just got a single black version for my new carbon comp camber and I love it! Funny though as I just figured out what the screw knob does


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

KickIt said:


> What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).
> 
> From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.


I think it's situational. A few minutes on a rural interstate? No problem. Stopping for coffee and parking your car around the corner in Chicago? No way.

When we have bikes on the car and if we stop, we make sure we can see them from where we are. Or we make sure someone stays with the bikes for those few minutes.

Most cables can be snipped in 5 seconds with a smallish bolt cutter.

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.

J.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

KickIt said:


> What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).
> 
> From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.


I use the longest noose chain from kryptonite. Chain around the down tube, through the noose. Free end of chain locked to the hitch with one of their short shank mini locks. For the dropper post I either drill out the center of the seat clamp bolt or fill it with epoxy. Wheels still aren't protected, I would need to buy some ulocks or a cable. In your case, chain the frame to the hitch, use the cable to secure wheels and fork. Google "how to secure a bike". Someone wrote a nice article where they actually let some local bike thieves try breaking various security devices using the tools the thief usually carried around with him. Ulocks that lock both shanks and chains were the only things that worked with the run of the mill thief and the pro could get through those with a battery powered angle grinder.

The thing about interstate parking lots is you never know who is passing through and they can be miles down the road in a couple of minutes after they steal your bike. Think commercial van with cable cutters in the back.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

JohnJ80 said:


> Hard to believe you'd have a problem if you alternate the bikes and adjust side to side as recommended. Just takes a little practice - these are awesome racks.
> 
> J.


Agree it just takes a little time initially to figure out the best fit. Once you've done it, it's a quick process.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

I have an issue with my nylock nuts that hold the trays to the base coming loose. Anybody have a fix for this? I have to snug them up every few months. It's kind of annoying.... especially since they used SAE sizes instead of metric. SAE? what is this? a 60s Chevy Nova?


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

unrooted said:


> So my problem is with the bolt that pushes the ball keeps coming loose when I drive off road.


I'll bet the ball isn't coming lose as much as it's digging into the inside of your hitch receiver... making a nice dent.... which in turn make it grip harder.

Don't worry. It isn't going to fall out.... ever.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Well after having my bike ripped off the roof twice by cable lines I finally caved to peer pressure on this forum and bought a 1up.










I'm sure I'm not the only person in the thread to do that but paranoia got the best of me and I didn't just want to rely on a velcro strap as my just in case safety device. I originally planned to put lock on the rack but the one I bought was too long and the one I had laying around was too short so here we go. Kind of like it this way better anyway. Not really worried about somebody steeling it and popping the carabiner on and off to check the bolt is easier than dealing with the lock.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

Why don't you put that chain from above the rack?


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Didn't cross my mind but I think it would rattle and scratch things up more that way. If you are asking because the ends of the chain look really close to the ground in the pic they aren't in real life. Just one of those camera things.


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## Skylined (Nov 8, 2008)

You're right. 

As you've said, I thought that the chains were too close to the ground.


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## KickIt (May 5, 2015)

Has anyone else noticed that the mounting holes, to add extensions to the 2"-double rack, are off centered. 

I wonder if that is by design or not.


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## gushags (May 13, 2015)

I'm thinking about getting the heavy-duty 2-bike rack with two add-ons. My question is my wife and I have three kids: right now I can throw the littlest one's bike in the back of the Jeep, but in the future I'm wondering if I could add an additional single rack to make it a 5-bike carrier. I know the manufacturer says it's for four bikes only, but it also rates the rack for very heavy bikes -- 75 lbs. each if I remember correctly. Has anyone turned this into a 5-bike platform or does anyone have an opinion on the advisability of that? Thanks.


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## QQQ99999 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have not used it as a 5 bike carrier but if I recall correctly, I believe someone posted that the company stated that it is the bolts by which the extra trays are attached to the 2 bike base that are the weak point, which wouldn't change between the standard and HD 2-bike bases.


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## gushags (May 13, 2015)

QQQ99999 said:


> I have not used it as a 5 bike carrier but if I recall correctly, I believe someone posted that the company stated that it is the bolts by which the extra trays are attached to the 2 bike base that are the weak point, which wouldn't change between the standard and HD 2-bike bases.


Ok, that makes sense. Thank you.


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

Mine arrived today. Very impressed with the overall fit and finish. Used the fixed gear as a stand in. The Enduro is currently at the office..


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!! 

That was a really dumb move imho.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

jonshonda said:


> Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!!
> 
> That was a really dumb move imho.


Makes it more difficult for people to mess with it I guess.


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## IP_Ale (Mar 14, 2011)

I note that the 1up website now says:

"NOTICE! 1up USA.com LLC is no longer replacing stolen racks due to the steep increase in theft. We recommend using a short cable lock or U-lock to secure your investment to your vehicle’s receiver. We apologize for the inconvenience this may cause."

I've read through all ~2600 messages in this massive thread, but haven't heard about anyone having their rack stolen. I guess many of us have the rack locked to our hitches as a deterrent, but I was wondering if anyone here has heard of a rack being stolen?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?


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## carlbren21 (May 2, 2015)

kragu said:


> So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?


I am curious about this as well. That was a very large selling point when I purchased it. I wonder if we are grandfathered in.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

jonshonda said:


> Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!!
> 
> That was a really dumb move imho.


USA!! USA!! USA!!! Ok, seriously though, we as a nation are RIDICULOUSLY behind the rest of the world when it comes to weights and measures. I work manufacturing, and ALL modern machinery is metric, even most equipment made in USA.. BUT not all consumer items are, and the English thread standard is extremely prevalent in older equipment and machines still, so it's far from dead.
It's expensive to retool a shop to build in metric, cutters, drills, taps, dies, bolts, etc. Plus, you have to maybe strong-arm some engineers to adapt to it, as well as the machinists and toolmakers. Maybe in another 50 years.


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## IP_Ale (Mar 14, 2011)

Very excited to finally have a "real" bike transport solution (no more cramming bike inside an old Prius), and a new car to put it on! Love this rack.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

Nice bike and car!


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

I own the 1.25 model and have purchased two add-on's. I purchased the 2 inch/ 2 bike model for my wife's car so we can carry four bikes. (I've seen four bikes on a 1.25 model, but didn't want to risk it since they no longer advertise that feature). Anyways, getting ready for my trip and finally unboxed the rack. I noticed the two bolts that allow you to mount the add on's are missing. Maybe they only put these on when you buy an add on at the same time? I can transfer them from my other rack, but I was wondering if this was an assembly mistake or the norm. Left them an email, but think they're closed on the weekends.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

kragu said:


> So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?


I'm not surprised they update their policy. These racks are ubiquitous in the bay area and with two wrenches coming with each rack, a thief will inevitably happen upon one of them. A new feature on the 2inch model compared to the one I purchased a few years ago is the extended shaft where you tighten the bolt down. It allows you to slide a pad lock to prevent access to the bolt.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

KickIt said:


> Has anyone else noticed that the mounting holes, to add extensions to the 2"-double rack, are off centered.
> 
> I wonder if that is by design or not.


It's by design. You'll see once you attach an add on. The holes are slotted so you just slide the rack on rather than have to take the bolts out and re-assemble.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

Sorry if this has been covered, will a 29x3" tire fit in the rack or do I need the fat bike kit?


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

The whole we have a special tool so the rack cant be stolen was so incredibly stupid to begin with.

They should have just enabled standard hitch locks to be used. Standard hole for a hitch pin with a lock at the end.

They could still use their system to tighten it in the hitch to keep it from wobbling.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

askibum02 said:


> Sorry if this has been covered, will a 29x3" tire fit in the rack or do I need the fat bike kit?


Yes my 29 X 3 will fit in the standard rack.


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## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

i just got my 1up rack in black and it's beautiful!

how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

useport80 said:


> how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.


Just hand tight with the hex wrench should be plenty...

Is the receiver out of square or dirty/rusty?


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## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

J_Westy said:


> Just hand tight with the hex wrench should be plenty...
> 
> Is the receiver out of square or dirty/rusty?


i dont believe there are any issues with the receiver. it's the stock receiver with my 4runner. i never had any issues with my previous yakima rack. i didn't check inside the receiver, so i can't say for sure. i'll remove it and take a look this weekend.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

useport80 said:


> i dont believe there are any issues with the receiver. it's the stock receiver with my 4runner. i never had any issues with my previous yakima rack. i didn't check inside the receiver, so i can't say for sure. i'll remove it and take a look this weekend.


While you're looking, there's a post a few pages back about a guy that had an issue with the ball mechanism... he's kinda whiny, but if you keep reading, 1up took care of him.

The picture of the deformation is here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-quick-rack-quick-review-602461-102.html#post11907104


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

useport80 said:


> i just got my 1up rack in black and it's beautiful!
> 
> how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.


The weight of the rack and bikes are borne by the receiver. You can completely load up your rack with it completely loose in the receiver and it will hold everything up. The purpose of the ball is to prevent the rack from sliding out of the receiver so you just need enough friction to prevent that from happening. I tighten mine tight enough so that I can be assured it is tight but can also be easily released.

The only caveat to this is if there is debris in the receiver (i.e. clods of dirt, for example) that could be crushed up into the corner of the receiver by the ball and be dislodged over time and cause the rack to be loose in the receiver.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

J_Westy said:


> While you're looking, there's a post a few pages back about a guy that had an issue with the ball mechanism... he's kinda whiny, but if you keep reading, 1up took care of him.
> 
> The picture of the deformation is here:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-quick-rack-quick-review-602461-102.html#post11907104


That was me whining, and it is because no matter what I do the hitch gets loose, even with the new one they just sent me. I just put some lightweight lock tight on the bolt and it still was loose by the end of a day where I only drove on the highway. . .sorry if it seems lame for someone to be bothered by a $500 rack coming loose EVERY time I use it.

FYI it only comes loose when I use it on my 2" hitch, not on my 1 1/4".

It was very nice of 1Up to replace the receiver, free of charge, but they didn't do so until I showed a picture of the bulge on the hitch bar. . .otherwise they accused me of driving too rough of roads, which I don't think I did, certainly not at any speed.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

unrooted said:


> That was me whining, and it is because no matter what I do the hitch gets loose, even with the new one they just sent me. I just put some lightweight lock tight on the bolt and it still was loose by the end of a day where I only drove on the highway. . .sorry if it seems lame for someone to be bothered by a $500 rack coming loose EVERY time I use it.
> 
> FYI it only comes loose when I use it on my 2" hitch, not on my 1 1/4".
> 
> It was very nice of 1Up to replace the receiver, free of charge, but they didn't do so until I showed a picture of the bulge on the hitch bar. . .otherwise they accused me of driving too rough of roads, which I don't think I did, certainly not at any speed.


If this new rack also comes loose then the problem has to be with your receiver. To my knowledge, you're the only report I've ever heard of this happening. That also points to a problem with your receiver (the 2" one).

Perhaps the proper characterization of this problem is that it is lame if your receiver causes bike racks to loosen every time you use it.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

My reciever is clean, and doesn't have thick paint, what else can I do? I was considering placing a thin layer of material between the hitch bar and the 1.25" to 2" adapter to take up a space, but other than that I don't know what else may work.

The 2" receiver came new with my 2013 Tacoma.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> If this new rack also comes loose then the problem has to be with your receiver. To my knowledge, you're the only report I've ever heard of this happening. That also points to a problem with your receiver (the 2" one).
> 
> Perhaps the proper characterization of this problem is that it is lame if your receiver causes bike racks to loosen every time you use it.
> 
> J.


I agree... almost sounds like the receiver ID has an angle to it so the square gets bigger the farther outboard you get? Very strange.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

There's got to be something wrong with that receiver. You could replace it, I suppose. You've already proven it's not the rack that is causing the problem because the problem is there with the new rack as well.

You could also just take a pad of some material - maybe even like leather - and place it over the ball in the corner of the receiver. I'd bet that would solve the problem. You'd crush it into place in the corner of the receiver and it would have to increase the friction and fill any open space remaining. 

Either that or just use the U lock method that some have used to lock their racks to the car. 

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I just went out and measured my trucks hitch and one on a nearby chevy, they both measured at 2 1/16". 

Also of note is that useport80 is driving a toyota. . .


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

unrooted said:


> I just went out and measured my trucks hitch and one on a nearby chevy, they both measured at 2 1/16".
> 
> Also of note is that useport80 is driving a toyota. . .


I don't think he's claiming that it loosens only that there is some play (maybe he could clarify). One would expect that there is play because the ball only ties it down in one spot and if the receiver ID is bigger than the rack's neck OD then there would be that play and it would be normal.

I haven't checked my rack, but I just did some work on the boats with our 2" receiver ball mount and it's not a tight fit in the receiver as one would expect. Trailer hitches and receivers are not precision things....

J.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

unrooted said:


> I just went out and measured my trucks hitch and one on a nearby chevy, they both measured at 2 1/16".
> 
> Also of note is that useport80 is driving a toyota. . .


Hmmm. It seems to me that the only way for it to become loose is for something to move or for something to yield (deform).

Assuming you're not getting the deformation around the ball like you had the last time, here's some data that might help root cause the issue:

1) Mark/scribe the bolt to see if it's loosening
2) Mark/scribe the hitch bar to see if it's backing out.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I can try to mark the bolt.

I already know that the hitch bar is coming loose because I now have one of those stops that go around the hitch bar, but I don't put my rack all the way up against the hitch stop (because it's a 1.25 rack with the 2" converter on it and) because if I do then my handlebar hits the back of my truck, after I drive a ways it loosens up and moves forward into the hitch stop. i use the Velcro strap, which is plenty strong enough to keep the rack on the truck. 

I took a picture of the inside of the receiver and there are several indentations from the ball, so maybe my receiver is just made of too soft of steel, not sure if there's a fix for that, except a new hitch receiver. . . sucks.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

unrooted said:


> I can try to mark the bolt.
> 
> I already know that the hitch bar is coming loose because I now have one of those stops that go around the hitch bar, but I don't put my rack all the way up against the hitch stop (because it's a 1.25 rack with the 2" converter on it and) because if I do then my handlebar hits the back of my truck, after I drive a ways it loosens up and moves forward into the hitch stop. i use the Velcro strap, which is plenty strong enough to keep the rack on the truck.
> 
> I took a picture of the inside of the receiver and there are several indentations from the ball, so maybe my receiver is just made of too soft of steel, not sure if there's a fix for that, except a new hitch receiver. . . sucks.


What about a liner or sleave to distribute the pressure of the bolt along a wider area on the receiver? Maybe even just a thin metal plate slipped in along the top of the bike rack hitch will be enough. There is usually some space/play there, so I'm sure you could fit it. I just don't know if it would be stiff enough to actually help, but it would be worth trying.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I was just looking at stainless steel angle iron for protecting corners, I would like to give it a try, but I wonder how easily it will dent, it's 1/16" thick. . .

I'll see if there is anything available nearby to this: Amazon.com: Stainless Corner Guard, 2" X 2" X 48": Home Improvement


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I wonder what a lock washer on the bolt may do. . .???


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

albertdc said:


> What about a liner or sleave to distribute the pressure of the bolt along a wider area on the receiver? Maybe even just a thin metal plate slipped in along the top of the bike rack hitch will be enough. There is usually some space/play there, so I'm sure you could fit it. I just don't know if it would be stiff enough to actually help, but it would be worth trying.


That's why I was suggesting even a piece of leather. The idea is to fill the gap in the angle and get more surface area. The only purpose of the ball is to keep the tongue in the receiver, it's not load bearing.

J.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

unrooted said:


> I can try to mark the bolt.
> 
> I already know that the hitch bar is coming loose because I now have one of those stops that go around the hitch bar, but I don't put my rack all the way up against the hitch stop (because it's a 1.25 rack with the 2" converter on it and) because if I do then my handlebar hits the back of my truck, after I drive a ways it loosens up and moves forward into the hitch stop. i use the Velcro strap, which is plenty strong enough to keep the rack on the truck.
> 
> I took a picture of the inside of the receiver and there are several indentations from the ball, so maybe my receiver is just made of too soft of steel, not sure if there's a fix for that, except a new hitch receiver. . . sucks.


Hmmm. Couple thoughts.

If you can put it in the same spot and keep using the same "dent" it should help keep it in place.

Is there a chance there's a high spot in the corner of the receiver opposite the ball such that the hitch bar sits on a point instead of a line?

Does the hitch bar rock or move at all when you tighten it up initially? It should be rock solid from the get go.

Strange stuff


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## carlbren21 (May 2, 2015)

IP_Ale said:


> Very excited to finally have a "real" bike transport solution (no more cramming bike inside an old Prius), and a new car to put it on! Love this rack.


Any idea what size of u lock that is? I am wanting to do the same thing but curious about what size? Thanks for any help.


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## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

yeah im using a toyota 4runner's stock 2" hitch. 

there is rust on the outside, so i bet there's got to be rust on the inside. any idea what i can use to clean it? 

when i say play, there's like 1/8" of play up/down and side/side. im just nitpicking but i figured most would be ok with it. the lever that tilts the rack is difficult to depress, but thats probably cuz it's pretty new.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Spray the inside of the receiver with WD-40, It'll help with rust.

Play in the receiver tube is soley the hitch makers responsibility. I had play in my previous 4Runner Toyota receiver, but my VW Touareg receiver is nearly spot on, almost to tight to insert the 1up rack. One spin of the securing bolt and it's tight, with no play whatsoever.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

carlbren21 said:


> Any idea what size of u lock that is? I am wanting to do the same thing but curious about what size? Thanks for any help.


I believe that is the Kryptonite Evolution U lock. There are three versions with a 5". 7" or 9" long shackle. Here's the 9" version from REI.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

unrooted said:


> I can try to mark the bolt.
> 
> I already know that the hitch bar is coming loose because I now have one of those stops that go around the hitch bar, but I don't put my rack all the way up against the hitch stop (because it's a 1.25 rack with the 2" converter on it and) because if I do then my handlebar hits the back of my truck, after I drive a ways it loosens up and moves forward into the hitch stop. i use the Velcro strap, which is plenty strong enough to keep the rack on the truck.


How far do you put the hitch in the receiver? I think the 2" converter piece has to be inside the receiver with something like at least 1" clearance from the outside end per 1UpUSA. If it's not in far enough, then it's possible that the rack is acting like a lever and levering the whole thing out as the rack is moved up and down by the terrain. Try putting the rack in farther and then not putting a bike on the closest slot to the car if the handlebars are interfering (or turn them). Not recommending this as a permanent solution but as a test. In other words, get the rack in the receiver farther and load it up and see what happens.

If this works, then it's like that the hitch receiver is too far under the bumper. You can either get an extender or find a hitch that isn't tucked so far underneath. This will introduce more sway from the two additional joints but you should/might be able to take a lot of that out with some of the anti-rattle bolts available like this.



> I took a picture of the inside of the receiver and there are several indentations from the ball, so maybe my receiver is just made of too soft of steel, not sure if there's a fix for that, except a new hitch receiver. . . sucks.


Can you provide this picture? Please insert a tape measure into the receiver if you can to see some depth perspective.

J


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

The slider on one of the arms is slipping and is loosening the arm and I don't know how to fix it. The other side didn't move a bit but the one side would slide about half and inch. Just enough to loosen up the bike but not enough to allow the bike to fall out. I have the earlier version where the slide is smooth (no teeth). Any suggestions?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> If this works, then it's like that the hitch receiver is too far under the bumper. You can either get an extender or find a hitch that isn't tucked so far underneath. This will introduce more sway from the two additional joints but you should/might be able to take a lot of that out with some of the anti-rattle bolts available like this.
> J


... or get a 2 to 1-1/4 adapter since you need to get down to 1-1/4 anyway.










I like this hitch tightener if you go this way. Simple and dead nuts solid.

Hitch Tightener - Stabilizer | StowAway2.com


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

J_Westy said:


> ... or get a 2 to 1-1/4 adapter since you need to get down to 1-1/4 anyway.


I like the looks of that stabilizer but it's going to be a pain to put on compared to the rack.

There is no need to go down to the 1.25" on the rack tongue. It's a bolted on piece that he'd have to take off but wouldn't need to otherwise.

Hopefully, we get to the bottom of this problem and hopefully, the receiver isn't tucked way under the bumper. I can see why a factory receiver might do this but when it comes to bike racks, it's not a "feature."

J.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> I like the looks of that stabilizer but it's going to be a pain to put on compared to the rack.


It goes on and off fairly fast, but yeah, doing it every day wouldn't be great. But if he wanted to leave an adapter in all the time it's very solid.



JohnJ80 said:


> There is no need to go down to the 1.25" on the rack tongue. It's a bolted on piece that he'd have to take off but wouldn't need to otherwise.


I thought he said he other car was 1-1/4"...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

J_Westy said:


> It goes on and off fairly fast, but yeah, doing it every day wouldn't be great. But if he wanted to leave an adapter in all the time it's very solid.
> 
> I thought he said he other car was 1-1/4"...


I suppose he could leave the adaptor in all the time. I shudder to think what my shins would look like. It's bad enough when I forget to take out the regular trailer hitch piece from the receiver.

J.


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## El_Zilcho (Feb 4, 2013)

Got my new rack. 







It does not look as bad in real life


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

John said:


> USA!! USA!! USA!!! Ok, seriously though, we as a nation are RIDICULOUSLY behind the rest of the world when it comes to weights and measures. I work manufacturing, and ALL modern machinery is metric, even most equipment made in USA.. BUT not all consumer items are, and the English thread standard is extremely prevalent in older equipment and machines still, so it's far from dead.
> It's expensive to retool a shop to build in metric, cutters, drills, taps, dies, bolts, etc. Plus, you have to maybe strong-arm some engineers to adapt to it, as well as the machinists and toolmakers. Maybe in another 50 years.


Using metric allen sizes vs. english has nothing to do with tooling, it is simply a choice between wanting to use a metric or english allen wrench. No biker is going to have english sized allen wrenches with them, but every rider who has a tool kit for their bike would have a metric allen wrench.

I did post this question on their FB page, and they replied "because american made", which is not the correct response. The correct response would be "we didn't think about the end user when selecting the hardware, but realize it would have been a much better choice for us to utilize hardware that could be adjusted w/ tools every biker should have w/ them".


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

If that's the reason then why is the adapter put on with a metric bolt???


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## jdee2wheels (Nov 29, 2010)

jonshonda said:


> Using metric allen sizes vs. english has nothing to do with tooling, it is simply a choice between wanting to use a metric or english allen wrench. No biker is going to have english sized allen wrenches with them, but every rider who has a tool kit for their bike would have a metric allen wrench.
> 
> I did post this question on their FB page, and they replied "because american made", which is not the correct response. The correct response would be "we didn't think about the end user when selecting the hardware, but realize it would have been a much better choice for us to utilize hardware that could be adjusted w/ tools every biker should have w/ them".


The use of standard bolts is really annoying and almost kept me from ordering just out of principal. My rack is attached to a car that uses metric hardware, and holds a bike that is metric. The rack should be the same!

Agreed, it has nothing to do with the small cost to upgrade taps etc. I think the reality is that it would be a huge annoyance for them to switch now and have to support both metric and standard versions going forward. So instead they say "american made" while in hindsight secretly wishing they had started out metric


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

jonshonda said:


> Using metric allen sizes vs. english has nothing to do with tooling, it is simply a choice between wanting to use a metric or english allen wrench. .


 Simply not true. But, since you don't mill, drill, grind, and work a lathe cutting metal for a living in a production manufacturing plant, you wouldn't know that.

Using an English vs metric size hand tool has EVERYTHING to do with the production tooling, and machinery used to manufacture the finished goods. Did you know that even though a 1/4-20 bolt is .250 inches in diameter (nominal) that a metric 6X1mm bolt is ALMOST the same diameter (.236 inches diameter), but neither would fit the screw thread of the other, and each requires a different tap drill size and a different tap!!! Repeat this for the DOZENS of different English and metric bolts thread sizes!!! It costs a lot of money the make things metric if your manufacturing plant is only tooled for making things in English thread sizes!!

If a small manufacturer ( and 1up USA is a small manufacturer, and probably outsources a lot of their work to other small manufacturing shops) isn't already tooled for metric, you can count on them NOT going metric. Only if they wanted to start selling their product overseas, they would have to bend.. Even the Brits are metric, even if they do drive on the wrong side of the road.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

John said:


> Simply not true.


So I cannot source a 1/4-20 flat head screw that uses a metric allen wrench for fastening?


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

John said:


> Simply not true. But, since you don't mill, drill, grind, and work a lathe cutting metal for a living in a production manufacturing plant, you wouldn't know that.
> 
> Using an English vs metric size hand tool has EVERYTHING to do with the production tooling, and machinery used to manufacture the finished goods. Did you know that even though a 1/4-20 bolt is .250 inches in diameter (nominal) that a metric 6X1mm bolt is ALMOST the same diameter (.236 inches diameter), but neither would fit the screw thread of the other, and each requires a different tap drill size and a different tap!!! Repeat this for the DOZENS of different English and metric bolts thread sizes!!! It costs a lot of money the make things metric if your manufacturing plant is only tooled for making things in English thread sizes!!
> 
> If a small manufacturer ( and 1up USA is a small manufacturer, and probably outsources a lot of their work to other small manufacturing shops) isn't already tooled for metric, you can count on them NOT going metric. Only if they wanted to start selling their product overseas, they would have to bend.. Even the Brits are metric, even if they do drive on the wrong side of the road.


I don't agree with that. 1Up buys their fasteners from a manufacture that probably does more business in metric.

That leaves the taps winch are small cheap and consumable. 
Ford trucks started switching to metric in the early 90s and I think they finished in '99.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Killroy said:


> I don't agree with that. 1Up buys their fasteners from a manufacture that probably does more business in metric.
> 
> That leaves the taps winch are small cheap and consumable.
> Ford trucks started switching to metric in the early 90s and I think they finished in '99.


Equally as big is the employee mindset. I work at a manufacring company that does largeish one off jobs and when we get the rare metric job in the guys on the floor kick and scream the whole time.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Killroy said:


> I don't agree with that. 1Up buys their fasteners from a manufacture that probably does more business in metric.
> 
> That leaves the taps winch are small cheap and consumable.
> Ford trucks started switching to metric in the early 90s and I think they finished in '99.


Why do you think it took Ford 10 years to do it? Changing out the mfg lines, spare parts inventory, and service tooling. Changing over a factory is a major big deal. Been there, done that.

J.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

@jonshanda
Nope. A 1/4-20 Flathead screw will use an English sized hex wrench (Allen is a brand name for hex wrenches). A M6x1 Flathead screw will use a metric hex wrench. It's that simple.

If you wanted a mix and match (Metric thread/English wrench or vice versa), that would be some crazy custom automatic screw machine header job to make those fasteners.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

edthesped said:


> Equally as big is the employee mindset. I work at a manufacring company that does largeish one off jobs and when we get the rare metric job in the guys on the floor kick and scream the whole time.


Also what I have experienced in other plants.... Personally , every machine i work with is either Japanese, Chinese, or German. All metric and not an English standard to be found.

When a manufactured good is DESIGNED, that's when the decision to use metric or English standards is made. Sometimes the material the fastener is made of means it is available in English, but not readily available in metric (example 17-7 stainless cap screws). Sometimes the cost of sourcing is the primary reason for one over the other and not-up-to-date common sense. If they can save a few dollars per rack times 100's or 1000's of bike racks that's a lot of dollars of profit. It all boils down to dollars and cents.


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

Just FYI, I have been involved with the design and manufacturing of steel fabricated stuff for decades. Metric fasteners and taps/dies are readily available in the US and have been for a long time. Honestly, for a bicycle accessory there is no excuse not to use metric hardware, since it's a real convenience for the customer who typically will have metric tools. Where the domestic industry is lagging, with some reason, is switching to metric-sized raw materials. Rolled, drawn and extruded shapes like tubing (and hitch receivers), as well as sheet and plate stock are still manufactured in inch and US gauge thicknesses. That's because the tooling to manufacture this material is huge and expensive (think giant rolls in a steel mill), not just a few hundred dollars in taps and dies, or new sockets. Speaking of sockets, I think the whole world still uses 1/4", 3/8" etc inch-sized square drives.

That said, buy the right sized allen wrench and spray paint it orange, keep it in the glove box and it's not a big deal.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

NINJA:skep:

I just ordered my 2nd expansion, so now I will have the 1 1/4" rack with 2 expansions for 3 bike hauling badassness, so the whole family can go without putting the smallest bike in the car.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Antikid said:


> I have read some talk about the bolts possibly shearing off with bikes on the expansions.


I have never heard of this happening. Is this conjecture or did it actually happen?

J.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

I think I saw it in this thread. I could have made it up though! 

I am paranoid sometimes about really stupid things...


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

Antikid said:


> I think I saw it in this thread. I could have made it up though!
> 
> I am paranoid sometimes about really stupid things...


I think you saw the one about the arm bolts shearing. Seemed rare.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Antikid;12067611 I just ordered my 2nd expansion said:


> I believe the 1-1/4" rack is limited to 3 bikes. I only have the single 1-up and the max was 2 add-ons (3 bikes total). I thought only the 2" receiver 2 bike carrier could have 4 bikes total I might be wrong about it but check it out.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

I will ninja edit my worry filled post. 1up told me to not think about it and haul/ride!

Once I get the last add-on I will have 3 bike spots, not 4 on the 1 1/4 rack. sorry for the confusion


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## bigflamingtaco (Oct 26, 2013)

Max is two trays added to whatever rack you bought.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

John said:


> @jonshanda
> Nope. A 1/4-20 Flathead screw will use an English sized hex wrench (Allen is a brand name for hex wrenches). A M6x1 Flathead screw will use a metric hex wrench. It's that simple.
> 
> If you wanted a mix and match (Metric thread/English wrench or vice versa), that would be some crazy custom automatic screw machine header job to make those fasteners.


That is what I was thinking, but didn't know forsure. I quick scan of Fastenal and McMaster provided me insight.

I really don't mean to dog on 1up for their choice, but it would just make common sense to me. I have only had to adjust the rack a few times, but seeing as I have no real use for english hex wrenches, it was a pita to find the right size.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

everyone loves pics!


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

edthesped said:


> Equally as big is the employee mindset. I work at a manufacring company that does largeish one off jobs and when we get the rare metric job in the guys on the floor kick and scream the whole time.


I did Mfging for a long time. machine building - automation. Never a big deal to a professional : metric-v-SAE...

Not my favorite, but not different making stuff either way, it's all numbers...



John said:


> Simply not true. But, since you don't mill, drill, grind, and work a lathe cutting metal for a living in a production manufacturing plant, you wouldn't know that.
> 
> Using an English vs metric size hand tool has EVERYTHING to do with the production tooling, and machinery used to manufacture the finished goods. Did you know that even though a 1/4-20 bolt is .250 inches in diameter (nominal) that a metric 6X1mm bolt is ALMOST the same diameter (.236 inches diameter), but neither would fit the screw thread of the other, and each requires a different tap drill size and a different tap!!! Repeat this for the DOZENS of different English and metric bolts thread sizes!!! It costs a lot of money the make things metric if your manufacturing plant is only tooled for making things in English thread sizes!!
> 
> If a small manufacturer ( and 1up USA is a small manufacturer, and probably outsources a lot of their work to other small manufacturing shops) isn't already tooled for metric, you can count on them NOT going metric. Only if they wanted to start selling their product overseas, they would have to bend.. Even the Brits are metric, even if they do drive on the wrong side of the road.


I can only count on this : people who claim to know about making stuff because they read it on the internet.

I have never worked in a machine shop where they didn't have the basics for metric.
Turning a piece to 1.250 is as easy as turning a piece 1.181 (30mm).
Having an assortment of metric taps is nothing to a real machine shop.

I imagine the whole thing is driven by the end user.
US made stuff is made SAE because 'that's how 'Merica does it', not because of some "prohibitive tooling cost".


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

I'm a big 1up supporter, but really wish they'd done the original design in metric fasteners--big mistake using inch as far as I'm concerned. If they changed now it would be a mess since your newly purchased add-on could have different fasteners than your original base rack. They'd almost have to change to an all-new series.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Has anyone used the rack with a 20 inch wheel bike? I'm camping this weekend, and want to use it for my brother's Dahon folding bike. The 1Up site says it works fine on 16 up to 29 inches.

If so, could you post a photo? I'd like to see how it looks.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

steadite said:


> I'm a big 1up supporter, but really wish they'd done the original design in metric fasteners--big mistake using inch as far as I'm concerned.


I really don't get the whining... the only fasteners I touch are the tamper-resistant bolts where you use the 1up-suppplied tool and the wheel spacers that will use either a 1/2" or 13mm wrench just fine?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

dirt farmer said:


> Has anyone used the rack with a 20 inch wheel bike? I'm camping this weekend, and want to use it for my brother's Dahon folding bike. The 1Up site says it works fine on 16 up to 29 inches.
> 
> If so, could you post a photo? I'd like to see how it looks.


Old pictures, but the pink bike is a 20er. Looks like I had the wheel spacer at the 5th hole from the end...


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

finished.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

J_Westy said:


> I really don't get the whining... the only fasteners I touch are the tamper-resistant bolts where you use the 1up-suppplied tool and the wheel spacers that will use either a 1/2" or 13mm wrench just fine?


I agree. I have to use mixed fastener systems on a daily basis. Not a big deal. Just have the appropriate tool.


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## gr8fasushi (Aug 14, 2014)

what do you guys think of using a security chain like this:
Security Maxx Chain 3/8

I have carbon wheels so I would need to lock up the front and rear wheels along with the frame. I was thinking of getting 2 x 10 ft chains with a two bike setup, one going from the hitch through the rear wheels, and through the frames back to the hitch. The other going from the hitch through the front wheels, and through the frames back to the hitch. Overkill? these security chains seem better than the cables.

or perhaps even just 1 x 15 ft chain attached to a ulock at the hitch


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

A chain offers the best security. I use a Kryptonite New York Noose 1213. The benefit of a noose chain is it doesn't have to be as long. The New York noose is 4.25 feet long and weighs 10.55 lbs, 12 mm links. The chain you are looking at is 10 mm links so will still be pretty heavy per foot. 15 ft of chain is going to weigh a lot and be hard to route through the wheels/frame/hitch. 

I "noose" the chain around the top tube and lock the free end of the chain to the hitch. Ulocks for the wheels. Three keys to worry about which is the down side. 

In your case, I would get a noose for one bike and then two short pieces of chain to tie the wheels and the frame of the second bike to the first bike. If you don't buy kryptonite chains and buy from the company in your post, make sure you get the chain covers for the chains. There are other bicycle lock companies than Kryptonite. You may want to check out Abus.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

rdb said:


> A chain offers the best security.


Agreed. They are heavy though, so I don't like to run one while driving so it doesn't damage the bikes. I only use the chain when I have to park over night at a hotel or something like that.

I happen to use a 12mm OnGuard Beast Chain:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090C4X0C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

with a pair of OnGuard 8046 Boxer mini U-locks.
OnGuard 8046 Boxer x4 Disc Lock with Pouch Reminder 5 8" | eBay

Obviously with the advent of battery powered angle grinders (ever watch Storage Wars), all manners of security are only a deterrent. But with a chain you at least deter thieves of opportunity that can nip through a cable in <5 minutes with a wire cutter or a few seconds with a small bolt cutter. And also remember that your lock point to the car probably becomes the point of least resistance -- like the safety chain loop on the hitch, the hitch itself, or the cross-bars on your roof. With my little U-locks, I'll lock the chain right to the chainstay of the bike(s) so the thief would have to cut the bike. Bottom line, bring the bike inside if you can!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I went with the toughest chain my local hardware store had (yellowish colored links, highest load capacity). That chain requires 48" bolt cutters, which I figure not too many criminals carry w/ them. I then took an intertube and slid it over the chain, and wrapped the ends with gorilla tape so just one link sticks out each end. 

Total investment is less than $20 and should keep away 99% of a$$holes.


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

I currently have a single rack on my C Class with a 1.25" receiver. Does anyone else experience shaking/wobbling of the bike during highway speeds?


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

DUNXXX said:


> I currently have a single rack on my C Class with a 1.25" receiver. Does anyone else experience shaking/wobbling of the bike during highway speeds?


i have used a strap on the bottom of the front wheel of my 29er to keep it from wobbling around. the 26" bikes don't have that problem.


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

Thanks for the tip. I should've mentioned its a 29er on the rack


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Antikid said:


> i have used a strap on the bottom of the front wheel of my 29er to keep it from wobbling around. the 26" bikes don't have that problem.


The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving. Maybe I'm too paranoid but I would look back and see the steering wheel going left to right and see the bike swaying at the same time. Made me wonder if the fork bushing were getting a work out after a 2 hour drive. I didn't try a strap like you mention here but I think that defeats the ease of a rack this expensive. Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. I'm now using an Inno tire hold rack with a similar design. It holds my XL 29er much better. The rack flexes more but the steering wobble is solved since the tires are held closer to the top part of the wheel. The build quality is almost laughable compared to the 1up though. There's no comparison there. The 1up is a beast.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

DirtDiggler said:


> The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving...


I don't experience any wobble with my bikes (medium frame 26" wheels) but I just wanted to point out that 1UP sells wheel locks that would make it impossible for your bike to come out of the rack plus you have the added benefit that your bike is secure enough to run into a gas station or whatever.


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## El_Zilcho (Feb 4, 2013)

DirtDiggler said:


> ... Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. ...


My thoughts exactly. I have an XL FS 29er with the same problem. After my first drive with my bike on the rack I thought the rack goes back. I sort of figured out a way to make the wobble not as bad, after you lock the bike in the rack, you sort of pull and rotate the front wheel through the arm and make the arm click one more time. It squishes the front tire, locks the front wheel with extra force and makes the wobble not as pronounced. When I have 2 bikes on the rack, bikes sort of interlock with each other and the problem goes away.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

DirtDiggler said:


> The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving. Maybe I'm too paranoid but I would look back and see the steering wheel going left to right and see the bike swaying at the same time. Made me wonder if the fork bushing were getting a work out after a 2 hour drive. I didn't try a strap like you mention here but I think that defeats the ease of a rack this expensive. Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. I'm now using an Inno tire hold rack with a similar design. It holds my XL 29er much better. The rack flexes more but the steering wobble is solved since the tires are held closer to the top part of the wheel. The build quality is almost laughable compared to the 1up though. There's no comparison there. The 1up is a beast.


I've noticed it on mine too. As for security issues, I just drove across the country with my 1up and the bike survived without issue. Never thought for a second the bike would go flying out. As for fork workout, I kind of wondered about it. My bike is functioning perfectly though and the fork is designed to be turned. I would think the majority of the "work" goes to the headset. You should do minor bearing overhauls every so often regardless. Ultimately I'm not super concerned about the wobble on my 29er.

On a side note, anyone have a spare black add on tray for a 1.25 inch rack that they're looking to get rid of? PM me or hit me up if so! Thanks /end shameless plug for my rack...


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Lev said:


> I've noticed it on mine too. As for security issues, I just drove across the country with my 1up and the bike survived without issue. Never thought for a second the bike would go flying out. As for fork workout, I kind of wondered about it. My bike is functioning perfectly though and the fork is designed to be turned. I would think the majority of the "work" goes to the headset. You should do minor bearing overhauls every so often regardless. Ultimately I'm not super concerned about the wobble on my 29er.
> .


My guess is it's probably not creating that much wear at all on the fork bushings if the wobble is within a reasonable range. I can see how 26, 27.5 and most 29ers wouldn't have the same amount of wobble on the 1up. On my XL 29er I could see my MRP fork compress slightly when I turned the wheel to left/right to simulate the wobble I was getting. Seems like this could be easily be fixed with an add on part to hold the wheel from rotating in the tray. I wanted to keep the rack so I thought about making a 3D printed part that could snap fit into the tray to hold the wheel from turning..but decided not to bother since I have limited time.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I find this wobble intriguing. Do I understand the the wheel will wobble left/right (due to vibration?) while driving? 

What about using some kind of strap/tie-down from the front wheel back to a pedal, or the rear wheel?


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

The left to right steering wobble is from the wind hitting the front wheel from the side. The front wheel sits on a concave tray so as the wheel moves 15-20 degrees to the left from the wind the concave tray makes it return(steer) back to the original straight position. As you drive faster the front wheel gets into a back and fourth rhythm which is what we're calling 'wobble' here. Again, myself and maybe a few other are the only ones who have noticed this. It's mostly annoying than a problem and it seems to happen on larger 29ers. I'm pretty sure it's due to not getting enough overlap from the two pivoting bars since the contact point is much lower on the larger wheel. A front wheel strap will minimize the issue but I don't like the idea of having to grab a tie down every time I go for a ride. Perhaps there's a way to retrofit a Yakima or Thule type ratchet strap on there to hold it down tight.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees. I have a '95 Trooper, and I've never noticed this issue on a 29er with 2.5 Minion DHFs, even at 75 mph into a headwind.


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## gr8fasushi (Aug 14, 2014)

what about using their wheel saver accessory? it will give the front tire more surface area to grab onto the rack:

https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

gr8fasushi said:


> what about using their wheel saver accessory? it will give the front tire more surface area to grab onto the rack:
> 
> https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html


that will probably work perfectly. I wish I had known about them so I could have saved 8$ for shipping! Now I might try to come up with something homemade that does the same before spending the extra $$.
meh, for 42$ for 3 of them, its not worth messing with. they better work though:nono:


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

evasive said:


> It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees. I have a '95 Trooper, and I've never noticed this issue on a 29er with 2.5 Minion DHFs, even at 75 mph into a headwind.


Nice bike! Yep, I would say that your on to something. My ride is a Mazda 3 hatchback so the bike sticks out more than your trooper. Also, looking at your image the contact points on mine was probably an 1/2 -1" lower down on the tires.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Good find! I just emailed customer support asking if that will fit 2.3 - 2.5" tires. In the image it's showing a bike with tiny tires. If it doesn't push the contact point too far down the tire it could solve the issue. I will chime in once I hear back from CS.


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## El_Zilcho (Feb 4, 2013)

evasive said:


> It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees...


It most definitely does. I see it a lot with MINI and almost don't see it with my wife's RX350


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.



DirtDiggler said:


> Good find! I just emailed customer support asking if that will fit 2.3 - 2.5" tires. In the image it's showing a bike with tiny tires. If it doesn't push the contact point too far down the tire it could solve the issue. I will chime in once I hear back from CS.


Let us know what they say. If it does fit wider tires, I'm ready to buy and see if its really helps with the wobbles.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

DirtDiggler said:


> Nice bike! Yep, I would say that your on to something. My ride is a Mazda 3 hatchback so the bike sticks out more than your trooper. Also, looking at your image the contact points on mine was probably an 1/2 -1" lower down on the tires.


Thanks. One thing you can see in that is that if it's a bit offset, you can get the contact point higher on the front wheel. That's accidental in that picture; it was just the first one I found on my phone and I was only driving around town. But it might help.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

They wobble because it is clamping onto rubber filled with air. Push the bar tighter and it will help. It is not damaging your bike in any way.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Silentfoe said:


> They wobble because it is clamping onto rubber filled with air. Push the bar tighter and it will help. It is not damaging your bike in any way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Nah...
making it tighter against the tires did not improve the crazy wobble I was getting past 50MPH. I think this would help more on a 27.5 or 26er. The Inno tire hold rack I'm using now hits my 29er wheels higher up on the wheels closer to 2 o'clock position and I get very little to no wobble. It's the same design more or less, just flimsier. Still waiting to hear back from customer service about the adapter. I might order up another rack if the say it fits larger wheels.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I have an XL 29er. I know exactly what it is. It wobbles. It attaches to a non-solid part of your bike. That is why. The wobbling is epically less than the trail vibrations you get. It isn't going to hurt your bike.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

El_Zilcho said:


> It most definitely does. I see it a lot with MINI and almost don't see it with my wife's RX350


Interesting issue... I've got nothing with either my Fiesta or Explorer with my Large 29er.

In the end this is a dynamic system in engineering speak, and it's resonating.

Changing the "spring" or "damper" could help or at least effect the system.

I'd be curious on the
- vehicle type
- front bike tire pressure (I usually run about 25 psi)
- type of glide bar on the rack (I have the old style smooth glide bar as opposed to the new saw-tooth style)
- - hypothesis here is the saw-tooth might not leave the tire as tight since it has discrete positions?


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Silentfoe said:


> I have an XL 29er. I know exactly what it is. It wobbles. It attaches to a non-solid part of your bike. That is why. The wobbling is epically less than the trail vibrations you get. It isn't going to hurt your bike.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Good point. I'm only hypothesiszing how it might effect your fork if it's not solidly held. My earlier point was that if you go on 2-4 hour long trip and the fork is fluttering back and fourth the entire time it's creating a little bit of friction in one area of your fork bushings which is a little different then going for a bike ride where the forces are very vertical and linear - not a twisting motion. Even if that's not an issue I like to look back and see my bike solidly attached and not see the wheel fluttering around. While the tire is not a solid part I'm placing my bet that 29ers with longer wheel bases wobble more due to the rack contacting the tire at a lower point. My Inno tire hold rack overlaps closer to the top of the wheel doesn't wobble nearly as much.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

DUNXXX said:


> Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.
> 
> Let us know what they say. If it does fit wider tires, I'm ready to buy and see if its really helps with the wobbles.


Sweet!
Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"

That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

DirtDiggler said:


> Sweet!
> Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"
> 
> That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
> It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html


I got the same answer. I placed an order.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

J_Westy said:


> - type of glide bar on the rack (I have the old style smooth glide bar as opposed to the new saw-tooth style)


Me too.


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## El_Zilcho (Feb 4, 2013)

J_Westy said:


> ...
> In the end this is a dynamic system in engineering speak, and it's resonating.
> 
> Changing the "spring" or "damper" could help or at least effect the system.
> ...


-Mini cooper clubman S
-Front tire 2.4 Ardent 25 or so psi
-New type glide bar

I like the the wind pressure hypothesis. My XL bike sticks out from both sides of my mini. Not as much with lexus.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

DirtDiggler said:


> Sweet!
> Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"
> 
> That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
> It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html


I have had 3 on the way since the first guy posted about them on the 15th. Hopefully they help.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Antikid said:


> I have had 3 on the way since the first guy posted about them on the 15th. Hopefully they help.


Excellent. Definitely interested in how these work, especially on a larger 29er with wide tires. Please let us know if it's an improvement after you take your bikes for a ride. Pictures would be appreciated as well!


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

DirtDiggler said:


> Excellent. Definitely interested in how these work, especially on a larger 29er with wide tires. Please let us know if it's an improvement after you take your bikes for a ride. Pictures would be appreciated as well!


will do and with pics


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

Quick update: the wheel saver is way to narrow for a large Mtb tire I will mess with it when I get home today and get some pics.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Antikid said:


> Quick update: the wheel saver is way to narrow for a large Mtb tire I will mess with it when I get home today and get some pics.


Bummer! Can you squeeze it in somehow?


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

they will not work on a 2.4 mountain king.:madman:


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Antikid said:


> View attachment 1003659
> View attachment 1003660
> 
> 
> they will not work on a 2.4 mountain king.:madman:


Looks like the width is just not enough. It also looks like it pushes the bar out further away from the tire than I expected. Darnit! Thanks for experimenting for us. Seems like 1up's idea of a 2.5 is really closer to 2.0


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Metamorphic said:


> Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.


Sure, they're available... a quick google search found this set:
Klutch Tamper-Resistant SAE Hex Bit Socket Set  13-Pc. | Hex Star Socket Sets| Northern Tool + Equipment

But I wonder if you could even fit a ratchet in the space around the left bolt since it's so close to the frame?

Have you guys tried lifting the back side of the rack to take the load off the bolts while you screw them in/out? When I do this, I can screw them in/out by hand quite easily and just put a 1/4 turn or so on them with the wrench to tighten them all the way.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Metamorphic said:


> Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.


The fix is simple. Make sure that when you add the tray you have her pull up on the add-on so that the weight of the drooping tray is not borne by the bolt. If you do that, you can almost spin them mostly tight by hand and add a quick tweak with the tool to tighten fully. Just observe the gap between the add on bracket and the bracket to which the bolts are mounted.

J.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

If lifting the tray doesn't solve the problem, a short length of pipe over the end of the wrench will work.


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## gr8fasushi (Aug 14, 2014)

DirtDiggler said:


> Looks like the width is just not enough. It also looks like it pushes the bar out further away from the tire than I expected. Darnit! Thanks for experimenting for us. Seems like 1up's idea of a 2.5 is really closer to 2.0


damn, I ordered a couple of them too. looks like I'll have to use a hairdryer and force it wider


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

gr8fasushi said:


> damn, I ordered a couple of them too. looks like I'll have to use a hairdryer and force it wider


I was just thinking the same thing. You might be able to bend it just wide enough to do the job with a hair dryer or a heat gun. :thumbsup:


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

moldau94 said:


> Anyone know what these rubber/plastic pieces are on the arms?













Valhalla said:


> They sort act as spacers when you fold it down it keeps the arms aligned and not rubbing metal on metal.


did the racks come with those rubber spacers? I didn't get any that I can see ... bought one rack last year and another this year.

i have heard the rack making just a bit of noise while driving folded up ( can minimize by slightly opening arm...but....a more permanent/easy solution would be better )


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

J_Westy said:


> Have you guys tried lifting the back side of the rack to take the load off the bolts while you screw them in/out? When I do this, I can screw them in/out by hand quite easily and just put a 1/4 turn or so on them with the wrench to tighten them all the way.


Its more an issue with her hand and arm strength. She has some nerve damage.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Metamorphic said:


> Its more an issue with her hand and arm strength. She has some nerve damage.


I concur with earlier response, get a small piece of pipe that fits over the hex key handle to increase it's length. This is tried and true for generations of people to get more torque. No need to make modifications to the rack and still maintain some security by keeping the original bolt.


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## StinkBait (Jul 16, 2015)

I just put in an order for a 1up single bike rack, dang that put a ding on my wallet, I hope it lives up to the hype. 

Thank you to the folks who posted pics on securing the bike and rack with u-locks and cables, I plan on doing the same as you folks did, I don't live in a very honest city,lol.

I'm also going to loctite the bolts on the rack when it comes in, I saw some pics of bolts wiggling loose and falling off, I'll buy the red loctite.


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

slcpunk said:


> did the racks come with those rubber spacers? I didn't get any that I can see ... bought one rack last year and another this year.


They used to, but several years ago. (I think they cost-reduced them out.) I have one rack with and one without and you're right the one with is quieter and has less rub marks.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

steadite said:


> They used to, but several years ago. (I think they cost-reduced them out.) I have one rack with and one without and you're right the one with is quieter and has less rub marks.


Can someone take a close-up of the part? Would it be relatively easy to come up with a home made solution? Just a rubber gasket/sleeve that goes around the arm there?


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

Never seen one, but would imagine a large cross section o-ring or a few wraps of electrical tape would accomplish the same result.


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## dump (Nov 14, 2005)

Haven't had the 1up rack for long, but this thing is amazingly well built and just works. I imagine this lasting a lifetime and multiple vehicles.


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## StinkBait (Jul 16, 2015)

Anybody know if the hitch locks sold at 1up are sold at hardware stores or Walmart, or did they specially make those for the 1up racks?

https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html

I have a 1up single bike rack coming in Monday and would like to get a lock local rather than ordering one online.

Thanks for the help in advance!


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

StinkBait said:


> Anybody know if the hitch locks sold at 1up are sold at hardware stores or Walmart, or did they specially make those for the 1up racks?
> 
> https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html


I use a regular keyed long-shank MasterLock padlock with a 5/16" shank in mine. Something similar to this:









It's probably easier for a determined thief to cut, but all locks are just a deterrent anyway with the invention of battery powered angle grinders with cut-off wheels.

The one on the 1up site is probably a hitch coupler lock like this:
Trailer Coupler Lock - Deadbolt Style for Surge Brake with 2-1/2" Span DeadBolt Locks 7692

There are several styles on e-trailer, that you could also probably find locally.


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## StinkBait (Jul 16, 2015)

J_Westy said:


> I use a regular keyed long-shank MasterLock padlock with a 5/16" shank in mine. Something similar to this:
> 
> View attachment 1005811
> 
> ...


Thanks!

I'll check my local Home Depot for that long shank Master lock. :thumbsup:


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## commandoNate (Apr 17, 2013)




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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

commandoNate said:


>


That's a slick set-up! Being an old Beetle guy, I was wondering you did a receiver hitch... 'til I clicked on your photobucket:


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## mtoyama (Aug 3, 2015)

Love this thread, lots of great info. Just registered to post these questions:

1. Is there a lot of play/movement when using the 1 1/4" --> 2" adapter on the Single Bike Quik Rack? Is there more movement in comparison to the 2"-only versions of the racks? I have a 2" hitch and I want the single bike rack.
2. For those who have a 2" version of the single bike rack: was yours custom built or did you just buy the SuperDuty version? I have no need for the added weight capabilities of the SuperDuty, but I would prefer a 2" rack over the 1 1/4" rack adapted to 2". The SuperDuty is heavier and more expensive as well.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

I have the single rack in a 2" receiver and there is zero movement. My rack is going on 5 years and it is as solid as day one.


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## Over the Hills (Jun 4, 2015)

This is my security set up. The chain is 3/8" grade 70. The whole thing cost $40 including the lock. I also made a shorter section to lock the rack to the hitch as well. Obviously nothing is thief proof but I feel comfortable running in to a store on my way back from a ride if I feel like it. I believe that it would take a 48" bolt cutter to get through the chain.. An angle grinder is another story. The chain is just long enough to fit over the bottom bracket.

I've had the rack for a week and it performs well. I just took it on a 2.5hr trip yesterday and it was very solid. I tightened the hitch tightener after the first half of the trip and it turned about a quarter turn.

Very easy to load the bike and secure it down with the wheel arms. It is fairly light as well and easy to install and remove from the hitch.


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## BigHG (Feb 3, 2012)

I picked up a Superduty a couple weeks ago and am very happy with it. I have a 2.5" hitch with a 2" reducer sleeve. 

I did purchase 1Up's reducer and I'm glad I did. The 1Up reducer is just a piece of steel angle .5" thick with a stainless cap screw that threads in through the hitch pin hole. The angle is opposite the tension ball that snugs up the hitch. The tension balll does a good job of pinching the angle and keeping everything tight. Much tighter than it would be with the reducer sleeve.

If you have a 2.5" I recommend thier reducer if you want it tight.


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## mtoyama (Aug 3, 2015)

OscarW said:


> I have the single rack in a 2" receiver and there is zero movement. My rack is going on 5 years and it is as solid as day one.


Thanks Oscar. If it's solid then there's no reason for me to deal with the extra cost and weight of the SuperDuty.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

mtoyama said:


> Thanks Oscar. If it's solid then there's no reason for me to deal with the extra cost and weight of the SuperDuty.


You're welcome!


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## IP_Ale (Mar 14, 2011)

Big bike, little bike - no problem.


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## commandoNate (Apr 17, 2013)

J_Westy said:


> That's a slick set-up! Being an old Beetle guy, I was wondering you did a receiver hitch... 'til I clicked on your photobucket:


Sometimes the best way to get something done is to do it yourself. Like in the case of putting a receiver hitch on a VW bug. So I did this bumper with the hitch to accommodate the 1UP rack and I'm really pumped with it. I haven't put the 2 extra trays on yet, but it's gonna be sweet with 3 bikes!


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## frodoz737 (Aug 10, 2015)

As a new member I wish to thank everyone on/for this thread. :thumbsup: That was one h-ll of a read. 

Sending Son off to College Part II and needed help getting him a good bike rack that's not strapped onto the back scratching up the paint on the 2010 Prius I'm passing on to him. Just finished ordering a Curt Hitch and 1UP USA Single Quick Rack Silver with a Quick Rack Add On Silver to accommodate his 26 and 29 hard tails. He was interested in the Kuat NV for the Trail Dock, but I was not impressed with the build quality. All reviews indicate the 1UP is more the industrial quality I prefer. Will know in a couple of days.


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## JoshS (Jan 7, 2004)

I've had my 1up rack for over a year now and overall I am very happy with them. 
I wanted the 1up rack due to it's design simplicity and ease of repair. Conidering someone hit it in a parking lot, $90 in repair pars fixed it up and was paid by the person who hit me. I also have the extension to make it a 2 bike rack. The only thing I don't care for is the amount of movement the 1-1/4 hitch has, the first time I load two bikes I swore something was going to break with the amount of movement. But it made it thought a 5000 mile road trip without issue, although they all may move around some, this is my only bike rack experience. But to it's credit, I do think some of it is the hitch, there is allot of leverage on the way that hitch is mounted. I would have to mount the rack to my truck and see how it does.

I will issue a warning to low cars or cars with dual exhaust. On my car I've scraped the rack many of times on driveways and what not. That being said I've also scraped the hitch. I actually put some high density plastic sliders on the bottom so when it does hit, it doesn't damage the rack.

The other issue I ran into was carbon rims and the exhaust. The rack sits about 12 in back from the exhaust and 1 in above the top of the exhaust. I thought this would be enough clearance to keep carbon rims from getting cooked. Well, I was wrong, We took a 5000 mile road trip last summer and when we reached our destination I noticed the cooked/melted rims. I thought it had been from a few high speed runs in the desert on the way to the final destination, but I also noticed after a while on the highway at normal speeds, the rims get very hot and will start to deform. Basically at over 100 mph, airflow from under the car pushes the exhaust high enough to basically act as a blowtorch on the rim. But even at 70-80 the exhaust is pushed up, on to the rim, so for a long enough trip it will cause bubbling and slight deformation. 
My solution was to install black anodized aluminum plates to act as heat shields. So far, they have done their job.


















Overall I have been very happy with the rack and their customer service.


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## g-t- (Dec 22, 2004)

P


JoshS said:


> I will issue a warning to low cars or cars with dual exhaust. On my car I've scraped the rack many of times on driveways and what not. That being said I've also scraped the hitch. I actually put some high density plastic sliders on the bottom so when it does hit, it doesn't damage the rack.
> .


Josh can you post a pic of the guards you made for this pls. Would like to see your idea. 
Thanks


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

mtoyama said:


> Love this thread, lots of great info. Just registered to post these questions:
> 
> 1. Is there a lot of play/movement when using the 1 1/4" --> 2" adapter on the Single Bike Quik Rack? Is there more movement in comparison to the 2"-only versions of the racks? I have a 2" hitch and I want the single bike rack.
> 2. For those who have a 2" version of the single bike rack: was yours custom built or did you just buy the SuperDuty version? I have no need for the added weight capabilities of the SuperDuty, but I would prefer a 2" rack over the 1 1/4" rack adapted to 2". The SuperDuty is heavier and more expensive as well.


I can only answer the first question. I got the 1 1/4" rack, single bike to use with my two cars. My Acura has a 1 1/4" receiver and my Jeep has a 2" one. The adaptor that attaches to the 1 1/4" rack fits perfectly and I have found that there is no noticeable movement when the rack/adaptor is installed into the 2" receiver.
As has been said before, the quality of the 1upUSA rack is second to none. It's an excellent product and if you are only going to be transporting one bike, I wouldn't hesitate to go with the 1 1/4" rack. It's a little lighter too.


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

I am also using a padlock as an extra security measure for the rack (not the bike). I'm sure a pro thief could cut through it quickly, but then they'll have to deal with the hollow allen bolt built into the rack. This is specifically for when I'm riding and parked at a trailhead, etc. 
I do not leave the rack on full-time (it's so easy and quick to take it off at home). 
In addition, I made a cable with a carabiner to hold the rack in case it comes loose, replacing the velcro strap that comes with the rack. Cost about $4 at Home Depot.


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## JoshS (Jan 7, 2004)

g-t- said:


> P
> 
> Josh can you post a pic of the guards you made for this pls. Would like to see your idea.
> Thanks


Sure, give me a few days, but I'll post up some pics


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Is the lockable "hitch hole" a new feature or is that a hack? 
My rack is a few years old. Doesn't have that.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Are you sure that the MTB is not just having an allergic reaction to being hauled around by a Cadilac? 



JoshS said:


> The other issue I ran into was carbon rims and the exhaust. The rack sits about 12 in back from the exhaust and 1 in above the top of the exhaust. I thought this would be enough clearance to keep carbon rims from getting cooked.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

Metamorphic said:


> Is the lockable "hitch hole" a new feature or is that a hack?
> My rack is a few years old. Doesn't have that.


Yeah, I think that is only in the newer racks. Not sure when they started doing it, but it's nice to be able to to throw a padlock or the lock they sell to add a little added protection.

It would be fairly easy to add it to your older rack, just drill it.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

oddly in my instructions they say 4" minimum insertion. or at least 2"
which is more minimum???


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## frodoz737 (Aug 10, 2015)

Received my rack/s and feel I made a good choice. While various solutions to securing the rack to the hitch have been presented, has anyone come up with a "best case" solution for securing the add on racks?


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

Metamorphic said:


> Are you sure that the MTB is not just having an allergic reaction to being hauled around by a Cadilac?


it is hard to tell, but I am fairly certain I see a "V" badge, which would make that NOT a normal Cadillac...


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

So I have a couple questions before I pull the trigger . . . car is a 2016 Subaru STI. I just ordered a Torklift Ecohitch with a 2" receiver. Per Torklift, the total receiver length is 4" and 2-1/2" from the pinhole to obstruction (spare wheel well).

I emailed 1UP with this info and they said that the 1UP will work great . . . when I look at the schematics on the 1UP site though, it seems to suggest that the rack requires a 4.375" minimum insertion? Perhaps I don't understand the numbers here and what they represent . . . can someone clarify this for me? Perhaps when 1UP is using the word "minimum" that's just the limit of how far the hitch can go in before hitting the obstruction?

Also, I opted for a 2" receiver because I've read a number of concerns about instability of the 1-1/4" hitch. Does anyone here run the standard 1UP rack in a 2" receiver using the adapter? Debating if I should get the SuperDuty or the normal hitch rack. I'll never be toting heavy bikes, but the solid 2" stinger seems to me like it might offer greater stability over a 1-1/4" with an adapter.

And can I just complain for a brief moment about just how expensive this crap is?! By the time its all said and done, I'm going to be all in for close to $1K! And I thought Yakima was expensive . . . . :rant:


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

007 said:


> So I have a couple questions before I pull the trigger . . . car is a 2016 Subaru STI. I just ordered a Torklift Ecohitch with a 2" receiver. Per Torklift, the total receiver length is 4" and 2-1/2" from the pinhole to obstruction (spare wheel well).
> 
> I emailed 1UP with this info and they said that the 1UP will work great . . . when I look at the schematics on the 1UP site though, it seems to suggest that the rack requires a 4.375" minimum insertion? Perhaps I don't understand the numbers here and what they represent . . . can someone clarify this for me? Perhaps when 1UP is using the word "minimum" that's just the limit of how far the hitch can go in before hitting the obstruction?
> 
> ...


Not quite enough info to tell... per "spec" the stinger should stick 3/8" out of the inboard side of your receiver tube. Is there that much clearance before it would hit the spare tire well?

Regardless, everything sounds like it's close enough, and I wouldn't sweat it.

If you can do a 2", it's a lot stiffer and your setup will bounce/bend a lot less. 2 bikes in my 1-1/4 setup bounce about as much as 4 bikes on my 2" setup.

Yes it's expensive, but it's the last one you will ever buy.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Can anyone tell me how long the stinger is on the 2" 1up?


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

7 5/8"


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

eonicks said:


> 7 5/8"


Perfect. Thanks . . . and just to confirm, this is the 2" and not the 1-1/4 with the adapter (though even it if were, I would assume they're the same length).


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I have NEVER measured mine when I install either my my two 1ups on either of my cars. I just slide it in a bunch and then tighten it down. Never a problem.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

007 said:


> Perfect. Thanks . . . and just to confirm, this is the 2" and not the 1-1/4 with the adapter (though even it if were, I would assume they're the same length).


Yes. 2" model


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## g-t- (Dec 22, 2004)

I have a few pics of the insertion length on a 2011 STI on my blog. Link is : Life Behind Bars....: 1 up USA - Bike Rack


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Why do you guys think there are 3 positions for the rack? I either have mine up (not in use) or down ( when I have bikes on it). 

Why would I use the in between position? 

The reason I ask is that it is sort of a hassle, because when you have 4 trays on there, it is tricky to keep the bar pressed in while adjusting the position. It would be much easier if I just could get it started and move it all the way from down to up w/out being stuck in the middle position.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

slcpunk said:


> Why do you guys think there are 3 positions for the rack? I either have mine up (not in use) or down ( when I have bikes on it).
> 
> Why would I use the in between position?
> 
> The reason I ask is that it is sort of a hassle, because when you have 4 trays on there, it is tricky to keep the bar pressed in while adjusting the position. It would be much easier if I just could get it started and move it all the way from down to up w/out being stuck in the middle position.


For an SUV back, at least with ours, you can tip the rack to the middle position and open the hatch back. That way you don't have the rack horizontal and have to step around it.

J.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

slcpunk said:


> Why do you guys think there are 3 positions for the rack? I either have mine up (not in use) or down ( when I have bikes on it).
> 
> Why would I use the in between position?


To clear a spare tire.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

g-t- said:


> I have a few pics of the insertion length on a 2011 STI on my blog. Link is : Life Behind Bars....: 1 up USA - Bike Rack


Thanks! Not sure how similar the two cars/hitches are, but I talked with both 1up and Torklift today and the short of it is that 1up says "no problem!" . . . Torklift says "no go!" . . . .

I confirmed with the 1up folks that the dimensions do indeed suggest that I'm 3/8" short of the minimum insertion depth and 1/2" over the maximum extension, however, the ball will be inserted 2" and centered in the receiver. They said that this will be fine. Given that its their product and reassurance that I have a 60-day no-hassle return if it doesn't fit, I'm in.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> For an SUV back, at least with ours, you can tip the rack to the middle position and open the hatch back. That way you don't have the rack horizontal and have to step around it.
> 
> J.





evasive said:


> To clear a spare tire.


Both make sense. I actually checked and the middle position does allow me to open my gate, which is easier than going all the way down. I guess that's a legit reason!

Now if they just made that bar you have to pull on a bit easier to work ... I hate how it isn't designed in some way that would keep both ends even. Seems like I always get one side out, but not the other.


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## hillslayer (Aug 14, 2008)

After reading multiple reviews and using a friends quik rack I purchased the heavy duty double setup with 2" stinger last night. I read about a rolling finger trick in a few reviews and am wondering what this relates to...anyone out there know the details about this?

Thanks in advance.


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## Daekwan (Aug 25, 2015)

New member here. But my 1st post is thank all of you guys for doing the homework for me. I needed a bike rack that will hold between 2-4 bikes, that was easy to connect & disconnect from the hitch, easy to store when not being used, held the bikes rock stable.

The 1UPUSA rack was the only one that did all of the above. The price was shockingly expensive, but far too often in life I've found its better to pay more up front and get what you really want. Versus going the cheap route and having to redo (or rebuy) it again. A good friend of mine calls this mentality: "Buy once, Cry once". I have no doubt this bike rack will last a lifetime. And if I ever decided to get rid of it, it would have pretty good resale value.

Now on to the bad part. My fiancee is going to kill me when sees how much I spent on a bike rack. I told her it would be around $250-300. Total was about $666 including the 2bike 2" hitch model in black, with 2 'short' locks and a hitch lock


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Daekwan said:


> My fiancee is going to kill me when sees how much I spent...


Get used to saying this.

by the way, congrats on money well spent!

p.s. I think it's important your fiancee knows how much you spend on bike gear before being married. Then it's not so much of a shock after


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Daekwan said:


> New member here. But my 1st post is thank all of you guys for doing the homework for me. I needed a bike rack that will hold between 2-4 bikes, that was easy to connect & disconnect from the hitch, easy to store when not being used, held the bikes rock stable.
> 
> The 1UPUSA rack was the only one that did all of the above. The price was shockingly expensive, but far too often in life I've found its better to pay more up front and get what you really want. Versus going the cheap route and having to redo (or rebuy) it again. A good friend of mine calls this mentality: "Buy once, Cry once". I have no doubt this bike rack will last a lifetime. And if I ever decided to get rid of it, it would have pretty good resale value.
> 
> Now on to the bad part. My fiancee is going to kill me when sees how much I spent on a bike rack. I told her it would be around $250-300. Total was about $666 including the 2bike 2" hitch model in black, with 2 'short' locks and a hitch lock


Don't worry. She'll dig it when random super fit guys start coming up to her in the parking lot and tell her she has a nice rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

bad andy said:


> Get used to saying this.
> 
> by the way, congrats on money well spent!
> 
> p.s. I think it's important your fiancee knows how much you spend on bike gear before being married. Then it's not so much of a shock after


Exactly. I've been married a long time and my wife just lets me do whatever I need to do when it comes to bikes. She looks at it as it keeps me around and healthier longer than if I didn't do it. I guess that's the long view either - that or she's given up.

@Daekwan - Here's the thing: this is a two bike rack system that she can easily put on the car by herself because of the modularity and it's Aluminum construction. Most other two bike racks, she would have a very difficult time doing that.

See how I did that? You did it for her. Doesn't always work, but it helps.

J.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Daekwan said:


> Now on to the bad part. My fiancee is going to kill me when sees how much I spent on a bike rack. I told her it would be around $250-300. Total was about $666 including the 2bike 2" hitch model in black, with 2 'short' locks and a hitch lock


Better order your two add-ons before the wedding!


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> Exactly. I've been married a long time and my wife just lets me do whatever I need to do when it comes to bikes. She looks at it as it keeps me around and healthier longer than if I didn't do it.
> 
> J.


I'm pretty sure my wife lets me buy what I want cause she thinks there a good chance of a life insurance pay out if I ride more.


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## JoshS (Jan 7, 2004)

sorry for the delay, I need to make some changes to the sliders, but these are holding for now. the damage you see on the rack is from before.


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## JoshS (Jan 7, 2004)

Metamorphic said:


> Are you sure that the MTB is not just having an allergic reaction to being hauled around by a Cadilac?


Nah, seems to get along just peachy


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## DUNXXX (Feb 4, 2007)

Quick follow up on my post about the plastic "Wheel Savers" that 1Up sell. I wanted to try it out and see if it reduces the wobbling I have with my 29er. I heated it up with a hair dyer to spread it out a bit more in order to fit the 2.3" tire. Fits fine. Can't tell if the wheel saver really reduced the wobbling at all. I'll need to drive at highway speeds to for sure. At first I was worried about leaving it attached to the rack but it concealed pretty well once the rack is folded up.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

^^^ Looks good. I haven't ordered my 1UP yet, but I will be shortly and likely add these and have to do the same thing.

Thing is about wobbling . . . on almost every bike rack I've ever seen, the bikes wobble UNLESS its held to the rack by the frame. I'll take a little wobble over a marred frame any day. The bike's not going anywhere . . .


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Bike wobble? I just tightened down the arms to squish the tires a bit. Wobble be gone!


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

5 years with every bike imaginable in all weather and all types of roads and speeds and the wobble has never been a big deal. No issues. It just looks funny.


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

Just a quick tip:

Lube the notches if the release bar is binding. Simple fix.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

unrooted said:


> I'm pretty sure my wife lets me buy what I want cause she thinks there a good chance of a life insurance pay out if I ride more.


That's the best line i've heard in a while..LOL!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)




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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I just installed a receiver hitch on my new car so I can still use my 1up rack.:thumbsup:


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Starting to think about the 1up and this thread is overwhelming. I know it has the best reputation and I've seen it in a few parking lots.

What's with the new wheel saver thing they are selling? Is it because people are complaining about too much wobble? is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter? 

Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver


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## bitflogger (Jan 12, 2004)

hankscorpio said:


> Starting to think about the 1up and this thread is overwhelming. I know it has the best reputation and I've seen it in a few parking lots.
> 
> What's with the new wheel saver thing they are selling? Is it because people are complaining about too much wobble? is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter?
> 
> Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver


Just buy it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter?
> 
> Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver


This is exactly why I'm considering the adapter. I have my rack set up for my fat bike but I also carry my 29x2.3" bike and it does move around more than I like.

As for a stop point, it doesn't have one so you'll have to take note of how far you insert it into your hitch. The receiver hitch on my Mazda3 is open front and rear so the rack can go past through and poke at the muffler. 1UP USA recommends you insert the rack about 2" in so I put tape 2" from the tip to mark where to stop and then cam it down at that point.


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

tonyride1 said:


> As for a stop point, it doesn't have one so you'll have to take note of how far you insert it into your hitch. The receiver hitch on my Mazda3 is open front and rear so the rack can go past through and poke at the muffler. 1UP USA recommends you insert the rack about 2" in so I put tape 2" from the tip to mark where to stop and then cam it down at that point.


My receiver is not open in the back, so the rack inserts a few inches then stops. I guess it depends on your receiver. Mine's simple, otherwise just do what Tonyride1 does and mark on the insert where you want it to stop, then tighten it there.

Keep in mind that if you buy the rack, and for some reason don't want it, you have up to 60 days to return it. 1upUSA will give you a full refund, there's no restocking fee, and they pay the return shipping. Can't beat that!


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Also, I marked the minimum insertion with a dotted line with a permanent maker. I then discovered that as long as I didn't insert it more than an extra 1/4 inch past the minimum insertion, I could still open the hatch on my SUV even with the rack folded in the vertical position (with two bike trays). I put a solid line at that point. So as long as I insert it between the two lines, I'm set.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

That seems so foreign to me as my current Thule has a hole in it and you line it up with the hole in the hitch for the pin and then it bolts through. how does the mechanism work for 1up? are you screwing something into hitch receiver hole and it's just tightening into the male end of the 1up?


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

hankscorpio said:


> That seems so foreign to me as my current Thule has a hole in it and you line it up with the hole in the hitch for the pin and then it bolts through. how does the mechanism work for 1up? are you screwing something into hitch receiver hole and it's just tightening into the male end of the 1up?


There is an internal wedge which pushes a steel ball outwards. This wedges the unit into the receiver. Very slick, very secure and way faster than lining up holes and using pins. Also, zero slop or rattle with this system.

And you can position the rack in or out for best fit.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

Agreed, much better than hitch pin setup because of the fact that it takes the slop out of the hitch/receiver interface. If your hesitant about getting the system because of that aspect of the design - don't be. Super easy to use and rock solid.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

More curious than concerned. I assumed however it works, it works well since its so popular. I have a thule doubletrack that is a few years old. works ok, doesn't look great and 99% of the time I only use 1 bike on the rack anyway. I also have a fat bike that doesn't really fit on it without me using additional tie downs. 

What's the verdict with the wheel saver? Get it, dont get it? 

I find it interesting that they say on the website that if you buy the fat bike spacer they will install it for you and not give you the other piece since you wont need for other bikes. But now they sell a separate piece to use when you have the fat tire adapter in it?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> What's the verdict with the wheel saver? Get it, dont get it?
> 
> I find it interesting that they say on the website that if you buy the fat bike spacer they will install it for you and not give you the other piece since you wont need for other bikes. But now they sell a separate piece to use when you have the fat tire adapter in it?


I see how you can be confused so here's my take given my own personal experience. I bought the 1up rack a couple of years ago without the fat bike kit. Then earlier this year I bought a fat bike so I got the fat bike kit for my rack. I removed the old hardware in order to install the kit. That old hardware was put in the bag where the kit came in and I've never touched it since. So for the past 7 months or so I've been using the rack with the fat bike kit to carry by fat bike and non-fat bike. With the fat bike on the rack it's perfect. No fore or aft movement (with respect to the car's orientation, not the bike's) of the bike on the rack. When I carry my non-fat 29er it still sits in the rack just fine but now there's a lot more room on the rack for the thinner tires to potentially "move" around because of the wider cone-shaped pieces separating the side bars. That in and of itself really isn't an issue as the cone-shaped pieces are still capable of putting enough grip on the thinner tires to keep it relatively still but sometimes if the tires lose just a little bit of pressure or you didn't clamp it down tight enough the tire(s) may move fore or aft (again, with respect to the car's orientation. Left or right of the bike) with all the bouncing, braking, and accelerating the car does during transit. Now, even if that happens it's still no big deal because even though the tires may have shifted they still sit seated centered on the tray. It just "wiggles" a bit more. So now that's how I carry my non-fat bike. I never remove the fat-bike kit and put the old hardware back on the rack just to carry my non-fat bike. This is the reason why when they put the kit on the rack for you at the factory you don't also get the "old" non-fat bike hardware because you won't ever have a need for them anymore. Now, should you get the wheel saver? That's going to have to be on your personal experience and preference. For some people their non-fat bikes never shifted during transit while being carried on a fat bike equipped rack and they don't mind a little "wiggling". Those people will probably not get the wheel saver. For others who don't tighten down that hard or have enough temperature changes during the day to affect the tire pressure enough to allow the tires to lose grip of the cone-shaped pieces and shift then having the wheel saver might be a good idea. But even in that situation the bike is still OK. Now, for me I can see great benefits to having a wheel saver and here's why. The 1up rack only works well if both tires of the bike are fully inflated (no flats) because that's how the rack grips the bike. No touching of metal parts at all. No clamps to the frame, no straps to hold down the wheels. Just cone to tires, tires to tray. So if you have a flat then there're really nothing stable for the rack to hold on to. Of course who would leave a bike flat and not fix it on the trail or at least at the trail head, right? Well if you're running tubeless you don't carry a spare tube and sometimes (though very rare) you cut the side of the tire and you flat out. This has happened. With that I'm thinking with the wheel saver partially cradling the wheels may provide a more stable platform to hold the bike during transit. That's just my take.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks Tony, That was very helpful. 

I've been back reading through the thread a bit and i think I have a better understanding of the interface with the hitch now. So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

hankscorpio said:


> Thanks Tony, That was very helpful.
> 
> I've been back reading through the thread a bit and i think I have a better understanding of the interface with the hitch now. So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw


You can access the screw but the main part of the rack is locked to the hitch. You'd have to destroy the rack to get the U lock off.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw


That's not entirely correct. I would recommend watching some youtube videos on the rack to get a better understanding of how the locking mechanism works. People do use U-locks for security and safety but it won't block the "screw" of the rack used to tighten and loosen the cam to secure it to the hitch.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Most of the videos and things on the net show the older 1up rack. The current racks are made so you can put a padlock on them blocking access to the mounting bolt/screw. I then used the padlock to hook a chain to my hitch with very little slop to keep the rack from being able to pull out if something happens to the internal wedge dohicky, I am paranoid.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

canker said:


> The current racks are made so you can put a padlock on them blocking access to the mounting bolt/screw. I then used the padlock to hook a chain to my hitch with very little slop to keep the rack from being able to pull out if something happens to the internal wedge dohicky, I am paranoid.


I stand correct. It's good that they added the locking feature.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> I stand correct. It's good that they added the locking feature.


Agree. That was a simple fix that sort of ended the whole discussion about the security tool issue. I'm glad that did that even though it wasn't a problem in the first place.

J.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Don't know if anyone else has had to test their warranty, but I have. After about 25,000 miles of carrying bikes, the weld from the hitch bar to the rack broke on mine over the weekend. (I have the older model that is convertible between 1 1/4" and 2"). I called 1up yesterday and they located my invoice for the purchase and asked me to send a photo. 10 minutes later they e-mailed back to let me know they were sending replacement parts. I received a shipping confirmation today. All in all, excellent service. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Cary said:


> Don't know if anyone else has had to test their warranty, but I have. *After about 25,000 miles of carrying bikes*, the weld from the hitch bar to the rack broke on mine over the weekend. (I have the older model that is convertible between 1 1/4" and 2"). I called 1up yesterday and they located my invoice for the purchase and asked me to send a photo. 10 minutes later they e-mailed back to let me know they were sending replacement parts. I received a shipping confirmation today. All in all, excellent service.


That's not too bad, actually . . . 25K miles of hauling bikes (if primarily back/forth between local trails), that's gotta be a few years worth of riding. Glad to hear that they provided solid support (no pun intended!)



Metamorphic said:


> Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?


Goof question though . . .


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Metamorphic said:


> Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?


Yes, I'd like to know, too. I also have an older (~3 years) 1-1/4" rack. Cracks in aluminum, depending on the length and depth, can be catastrophic and can just snap right off if the rack is loaded and being transported. Unlike steel where a crack will need several cycles of up and down motion of a loaded rack for it to break off.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

The rack is used for both local and longer trips. We live in the San Francisco Bay Area and my son is a downhill junky/racer. We go to Northstar 10-12 times a year as well Mammoth and Snow Summit, plus the odd trips to Downieville and Tahoe Rim Trail. Until last year we were carrying two bike (40 pounds and 35 pounds) but now also regularly take a third bike (25-25 pounds).

We were really fortunate how it broke. We were in Truckee and had dinner, at which point everything was fine, and then drove back to where we stay, about 1/2 mile away. When I got out of the car, the bikes were tilted back about 15 degrees. While the weld broke, the bolt the tensions the locking ball in the hitch kept the rack from completely collapsing. I am not sure how long it would have lasted if we were on the freeway. It cost me a bit of driving, as it was Labor day so I had to go down to Reno and rent a Uhaul trailer, as we had 4 bikes with us (one in the car).

As I only use a 2" hitch, I asked, and 1Up was kind enough to allow me to pay the difference to get the heavy duty 2" only bracket (there are different side plates apparently to change over). Looking that the 2", you can see that the connection has more than twice the surface area, so I don't believe there will ever be a problem with it.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Wow! Close call. I can just imagine speeding down through Kingsvale, here a snap, and then see thousands of dollars of bikes and rack tumbling along behind you.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Yea, tell me about it. It would have been one hell of an insurance claim. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Insurance. That's what I always think about when somebody is tailgating my $1,500 dollar truck that has $15,000 worth of bikes on the rack. Their insurance agent is going to shat himself.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Cary said:


> While the weld broke, the bolt the tensions the locking ball in the hitch kept the rack from completely collapsing. I am not sure how long it would have lasted if we were on the freeway.


Yowzers, I can see why there's a 2 bike max on the 1-1/4" now! Glad it didn't mess up your bikes!

Good thing that bolt bought you some time! Looks like you were miles away from quite a spark show.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

J_Westy said:


> Yowzers, I can see why there's a 2 bike max on the 1-1/4" now!


The max is 2 bikes now for the 1-1/4" version? It was 3 at one point.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> The max is 2 bikes now for the 1-1/4" version? It was 3 at one point.


I stand corrected... the website says 3.

I was thinking of the 1-1/4" adapter that has a max of 2 add-ons.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

FWIW, I have the original 1UpUSA rack that would work in both 1.25" and 2" and was spec'ed to handle 4 bikes in a 2" receiver. I still use it that way and it's got thousands and thousands of long distance usage on it that way. The whole issue is not the rack failing, it's that 1.25" hitches are not rated to handle the full load of the rack capacity at 4 bikes. Most people don't know what their receivers are rated it and hence the problem. 

J.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

JohnJ80 said:


> FWIW, I have the original 1UpUSA rack that would work in both 1.25" and 2" and was spec'ed to handle 4 bikes in a 2" receiver. I still use it that way and it's got thousands and thousands of long distance usage on it that way. The whole issue is not the rack failing, it's that 1.25" hitches are not rated to handle the full load of the rack capacity at 4 bikes. Most people don't know what their receivers are rated it and hence the problem.
> 
> J.


Exactly this. I ran mine for a while on the back of a BMW 530i, which only had a 1 1/4" receiver. Per the hitch manufacture, they wanted additional straps connected to the rack when carrying bikes. Even with two bikes, the hitch flexed a lot. The problem was remedied when I had my mechanic reinforce the hitch itself (he fabricates roll bar cages), by adding angle iron to it. Three bikes would have resulted in a catapult.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Cary said:


> Exactly this. I ran mine for a while on the back of a BMW 530i, which only had a 1 1/4" receiver. Per the hitch manufacture, they wanted additional straps connected to the rack when carrying bikes. Even with two bikes, the hitch flexed a lot. The problem was remedied when I had my mechanic reinforce the hitch itself (he fabricates roll bar cages), by adding angle iron to it. Three bikes would have resulted in a catapult.


Good solution.

I neglected to add that we have always used it in a 2" receiver and even with 4 bikes, it works well. Any rack cantilevered out like that will have some bounce but it looks worse from the car than if you were driving alongside and observing it (I've done both). At any rate, it wasn't a problem and worked well in a 2" receiver rated for the load.

I even - inadvertently I might add - pretty much took our SUV almost airborne when I hit a ridge in the highway at about 85mph on one of our trips. No problems.

J.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Not that I would know, but back there in the slipstream, the bikes are stable at 120mph+. You see some people driving really fast on highway 5 in the middle of the night. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.


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## selston (Sep 23, 2015)

BEWARE - make sure you use the cheap velcro strap (or other design of your choice) to keep the rack on your vehicle - the mounting system is a real weak link in the 1Up system. This is my rack on the side of Interstate 5 after it FELL OF MY TRUCK. I tighten the hitch mounting screw every time I use and every time I stop on longer trips. The mounting / retention system is a serious flaw in an otherwise great product


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

Mine has never loosened up, but that mounting system bugs me enough that I'll always use a u-lock.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Never had a problem but interested in finding out why your mechanism does this. Have you discussed this with 1UP? In theory, it is not as secure as a bolt that goes through it...no doubt about that. When I tighten mine, I lift the rack (with some strength) a few time to eliminate play while tightening...and before fully tightening. I always find a little play that way and can tighten it more. Will watch it though.


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## dirtyoffroad (Apr 8, 2008)

Mine stays on for 9 months every year,has never loosened up.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

selston said:


> BEWARE - make sure you use the cheap velcro strap (or other design of your choice) to keep the rack on your vehicle - the mounting system is a real weak link in the 1Up system. This is my rack on the side of Interstate 5 after it FELL OF MY TRUCK. I tighten the hitch mounting screw every time I use and every time I stop on longer trips. The mounting / retention system is a serious flaw in an otherwise great product
> 
> View attachment 1017355


I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.

Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.

J.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

I find it amazing that it fell of the truck and came to a stop so neatly with no apparent damage to anything. I can't seem to zoom in on the picture however....
Regardless, troll or not, the vast majority of us have had the rack on for many miles or days on end without it loosening up at all. That said, however, there have been others that have said that if they check it during a long trip or every few days that they notice that they can tighten the bolt up again, suggesting that it is slowly loosening. Someone else posted evidence that their hitch receiver was actually deforming from the expander bolt, causing it to loosen. I wonder, therefore, if the people that have it coming loose have that problem because of soft hitch receiver metal. I'm sure that is hard to quantitate or assess, but it remains to reason that if you are having to snug up the bolt ever trip, something is a little off in the setup as a whole. In that case, you sure as heck should add the velcro strap (or u-bolt) for added security. Since the problem appears to be quite rare, I love the system they used because it gives us the chance to titrate how far in or out the rack sits and makes it far easier and faster to put the rack on for those of us that take it off and put it on frequently.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

yes, but in order for it to simply come out, it would have to be incredibly loose in the receiver. The retention ball mechanism only provides a friction hold in the receiver. Just put your fully loaded rack in the receiver and see how much force it takes to drag it out of the receiver with no lifting - just horizontal drag - without the ball contacting the receiver wall at all. If it works itself out, it's going to take a lo-o-o-ong time. So I have a hard time understanding how it could just fall out in a properly sized receiver. Furthermore, any time you brake in the car, it's going to want to go deeper into the receiver. Wind pressure against the bikes is going to want to cock the tongue at an angle in the receiver putting more pressure against the top of the receiver - also adding friction.

I give this story a low rank for believability. Not an impossibility (but may be close), but I would be a lot more inclined to look at operator error rather than design error for sure.

J.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

poster only has 5 posts and all about this topic....


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

hankscorpio said:


> poster only has 5 posts and all about this topic....


If 1up actually decided to do some marketing for a change I say let them.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

That certainly appears suspicious. 

I do however, find that wiggling it up a time or two near a certain tight point does snug it up better. The weight makes it rest at an angle. Lifting it up gets me a little more of a turn and really gets it to zero play either side.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*2 plus years, never had rack loosen* (yet).


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

I have put thousands of off road miles on my rack and "NEVER" had one problem with the rack. I think that post is a joke.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Rock dude said:


> I have put thousands of off road miles on my rack and "NEVER" had one problem with the rack. I think that post is a joke.


I tend to agree, I have also never had an issue with 3000+ mile trips including off-roading, but

There seems to be a tiny fraction of folks that have an issue keeping things tight. Most likely because their hitch is wonky and they don't know it.

To that end, I think 1up would do well if they added some kind of chain with a carabiner just to put a nail in this issue... perceived or real.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

So with a padlock I can easily secure the newer racks now? I don't really want to secure the rack to the hitch and have to get under there all the time. I am looking for a rack for some weekend trips but mostly to take my mountain bike out on a Sunday. 

I'm thinking this is the best option. I won't have the rack on my car a lot. Basically put in on before I go and remove it when I get back. I do worry a bit of it being stolen when I'm out on the trails but this padlock solution seems okay. Its simple enough right. 

You think this rack would be my best option then? I know Kuat makes some nice racks but this might be easier to install and remove frequently.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

herder said:


> So with a padlock I can easily secure the newer racks now? I don't really want to secure the rack to the hitch and have to get under there all the time. I am looking for a rack for some weekend trips but mostly to take my mountain bike out on a Sunday.
> 
> I'm thinking this is the best option. I won't have the rack on my car a lot. Basically put in on before I go and remove it when I get back. I do worry a bit of it being stolen when I'm out on the trails but this padlock solution seems okay. Its simple enough right.
> 
> You think this rack would be my best option then? I know Kuat makes some nice racks but this might be easier to install and remove frequently.


I believe that is correct. I have the older style - in fact, I think I have one of the first racks. There is a security allen bolt that holds it on - it's got a little stud up in the center of the hex socket of the allen bolt that requires a special tool. I've never had a problem with that in the probably 10 years we've had the rack (long time, anyhow) and it's been in a lot of insecure parking lots and trailheads over the years. If there was a lock over the bolt head, I'd use it just because I could.

But I can tell you that it has got to be the fastest and easiest rack to mount on the car. I can have the rack on the car in less than 30 seconds from a standing start and about a minute for two bikes (rack plus one add on module). It would be simple to have the rack, add on module and two bikes on the rack in a couple of minutes or less. Some guy demonstrates this in a youtube video. While his is the two bike version, mine is the single bike version with an add on kit (actually three kits). I'm pretty sure I could get my rack on the car and an add on module as well with bikes in two minutes. That's a pretty high bar to beat for convenience.

It's also the easiest to store because they come apart into modules and sort of fold up. Have mine hanging on hooks on the garage wall out of the way.

J.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

Do I have to buy the lock they have on there site or can I buy a lock anywhere. 

Is that lock on there site even the same lock I need to make sore no one steals the rack?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

herder said:


> Do I have to buy the lock they have on there site or can I buy a lock anywhere.
> 
> Is that lock on there site even the same lock I need to make sore no one steals the rack?


http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-quick-rack-quick-review-602461-109.html#post12114581


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.
> 
> Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.
> 
> J.


http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=12213591

I called him out here. Few posts up.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I agree...probably someone connected to smaller competing company.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

Flyer said:


> I agree...probably someone connected to smaller competing company.


Or a bigger one. Planting FUD on the webs.

His 5 posts are bullish.t and never happened. They should be removed.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible? 

I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

herder said:


> Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible?
> 
> I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?


You can move bike left or right by adjusting angle of the arms. No play needed.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.

Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

herder said:


> Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.
> 
> Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.


You can always get a hitch extender. 1up sells 1-1/4" to 2" one for $40, but there are others.

It has more clearance than most racks anyway.


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## rgsherr (Sep 16, 2015)

herder said:


> Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.
> 
> Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.


The hitch on my 2015 Forte sedan ends several inches under the car and there's no problem with the tightness of the rack. Absolutely superb rack by the way. I can't get over how well it's designed and manufactured. One rarely finds anything anywhere so well designed and manufactured.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Axe said:


> You can move bike left or right by adjusting angle of the arms. No play needed.


It will pretty much block your license plate but in probably 15,000 miles of driving with it, never been stopped.

I did, however, get some trailer lights and wire it into my trailer hitch lighting. I then bungie the lights down on the most outboard rack. I did this because we have some covers for some of our bikes that completely cover the tail lights when loaded with bikes. However, I will tell you that it's a good idea to use them all the time. I had the occasion to follow our car with bikes on it for 250 miles. Didn't have the covers on the bikes but the tail lights were mounted. Amazing difference in the visibility of the tail lights and the perceived brightness. I'm never going to run without the extra lights again if I have more than a single bike on the rack - lesson learned.

J.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I just ordered my 2" super duty yesterday . . . should be here next week. Very excited (now lets hope if fits, haha).


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

JohnJ80 said:


> It will pretty much block your license plate but in probably 15,000 miles of driving with it, never been stopped.
> 
> I did, however, get some trailer lights and wire it into my trailer hitch lighting. I then bungie the lights down on the most outboard rack. I did this because we have some covers for some of our bikes that completely cover the tail lights when loaded with bikes. However, I will tell you that it's a good idea to use them all the time. I had the occasion to follow our car with bikes on it for 250 miles. Didn't have the covers on the bikes but the tail lights were mounted. Amazing difference in the visibility of the tail lights and the perceived brightness. I'm never going to run without the extra lights again if I have more than a single bike on the rack - lesson learned.
> 
> J.


I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.

I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

herder said:


> I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.
> 
> I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.


Fastest to set up and remove of all racks I know. My wife can easily do the single tray. I never keep it on, only when I need it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

herder said:


> I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.
> 
> I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.


It depends on where your tail lights are with respect to the bikes, I guess.

I take the lights and just wrap a bungee cord around them on the rack straddling the center line in between the wheels of the outermost bike. Takes <1 minute to install them.

Before, you could see the tail lights but it was through a forest of spokes. With the covers we have, it would have been impossible to see them. What I did note when following our SUV on a 250 miles trip was how much more visible the tail lights were when I did this. So much so that I'm doing it all the time now. This would also be true for any rear rack from whatever manufacturer.

Here's the light kit I bought:

Amazon.com: Blazer C7280 LED Rectangular Low Profile Submersible Trailer Light Kit: Automotive

Then I wired it up to match the trailer lights that come out of the trailer wiring harness on the SUV. Since a trailer relies on the ground to be maintained through the trailer hitch, I just wired the ground to the lights and both connectors. Works great.

J.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.
> 
> Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.
> 
> J.


5 Years on my rack and it NEVER loosened up, even after off-roading with my car in CO to get to trails... Total troll.. The way those bikes looked after it "flew off" the vehicle?? Yeah right :nono:


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

OscarW said:


> 5 Years on my rack and it NEVER loosened up, even after off-roading with my car in CO to get to trails... Total troll.. The way those bikes looked after it "flew off" the vehicle?? Yeah right :nono:


Dubfk never posted since. Interwebz.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

Just got the rack. Looks solid. 

step 7 of instructions say "position the quick rack to desired depth, 4" minimum insertion, BUT NO LESS THAN 2". 

The 2 inch part doesn't make sense? maybe they mean the ball has to be 2 inches in. 

Anyway so there is no lining up the pin hole with the ball? The ball tightens to any part of the hitch?

You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

herder said:


> You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.


I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

herder said:


> Just got the rack. Looks solid.
> 
> step 7 of instructions say "position the quick rack to desired depth, 4" minimum insertion, BUT NO LESS THAN 2".
> 
> ...


The ball pushes up into the corner of the receiver. It has no need to be oriented to the hitch locking pin hole. All the ball does is provide loads of friction so the rack will not slide out of the receiver. The rack does not depend on the ball for any load bearing of the bikes.



> You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.


I have the older rack that is similar in configuration to the current 1.25" one that can be used in a 2" receiver as well. At the time when I asked, 1UpUSA said that the end of the 2" piece needs to be about 1" into the receiver. Typically, mine is in much farther than that.

Again, just use common sense. Get as much of the tongue of the rack into the receiver as you can. If you do have a problem where your hitch is a crazy amount under the bumper then just get an extender and one of those locking pins that takes the slop out of the receiver extender interface. That said, I think the 1UpUSA rack has more than enough tongue for the vast majority of installations. Hitches have to be relatively close to the edge of the bumper or trailers with surge brakes would have interfere with the bumper or the trailer would interfere with the bumper for locking and unlocking the ball.



007 said:


> I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.


Exactly. S/b more than ok.

J.


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## MTRRON (Nov 14, 2008)

Just got a 1 up rack in 1 1/4.
Can someone explain what to do with the Velcro Strap.
thanks


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

MTRRON said:


> Just got a 1 up rack in 1 1/4.
> Can someone explain what to do with the Velcro Strap.
> thanks


It's a safety precaution that I found I really don't need. You use it strap the rack to one of the safety loops on the hitch where you would hook up a chain if you were towing a trailer. This prevents the rack from sliding out if it becomes loose, which it never did for me although some have said it did.


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

herder said:


> Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible?
> 
> I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?


Most states have laws that list acceptable reason block your rear license plate. In Texas for example a bike rack installed per manufacturer's design is fine to block the rear plate. 
I am willing to bet most states have the same exceptions.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## MTRRON (Nov 14, 2008)

Cool, that makes sense. Could not figure that out from the directions?
thanks


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I have two 1up racks and have zero idea where either of my velcro straps are. I just don't use them. If I remeber, I put a u lock around the rack but that is more of an anti-theft thing than a rack retention thing. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> It's a safety precaution that I found I really don't need. You use it strap the rack to one of the safety loops on the hitch where you would hook up a chain if you were towing a trailer. This prevents the rack from sliding out if it becomes loose, which it never did for me although some have said it did.


Never used one in 15,000 miles of driving with the rack.

J.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

So I got the hitch and rack installed (pics when its light out) and am really happy.

How tight do I need to make the retention ball? I have a bad habit of hamfisting things, so I'll need to be mindful of that.

Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

I only bother doing one side. Never needed to do both to get out a bike out. I lean on the arm a bit and push it into the tire to make pulling the lever up a little easier.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

007 said:


> Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?


I think there are videos on youtube about it but here's what I do. Before pulling up on the release latch I would apply pressure to the arm holding the front tire. While pushing in of that arm towards the rear of the bike this releases the pressure on the release latch. Then pull up on the release and open the arm all the way down. Then just slide the bike out of the other arm which is holding the rear tire.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

007 said:


> Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?


Just release and swing the front wheel arm first... the rear wheel will hold the bike up.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I have one. I always install the bikes the same way. My bikes are "long" AM bikes, so I have to place them outboard as much as possible. 

I simply use the left for the front bike's front wheel, and right for the rear bike's front wheel. I adjust the front wheel catch "2nd click" from all the way out. Put the bike on, and then ONLY secure via the rear wheel catch. 

Put the next bike on the opposite direction.

I tighten them up pretty good, so I cannot do the removal with one hand. I simply push the bracket into the tire with one hand, and release the lever with the other, then pull the bracket back. Done quickly the bike never has a chance to fall before I catch it. Bike is off in 3 seconds, most guys that watch bikes go on/off are amazed at the speed.

The ONLY downfall of the 1Up is it isn't ideal if your bike has a flat tire. If you have a leak that you didn't know about (As me how I know this), it will get floppy on the drive home. You can see it in the mirror though, if you are paying attention.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

007 said:


> So I got the hitch and rack installed (pics when its light out) and am really happy.
> 
> How tight do I need to make the retention ball? I have a bad habit of hamfisting things, so I'll need to be mindful of that.


All the ball is doing is providing friction between the rack tongue and the receiver. Just get it comfortably tight, you don't need to go nuts on it.



> Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?


Depress one arm into the tire while simultaneously operating the release lever. You just need to relieve some of the pressure and then it's easy. The cam style lever is designed to get tighter the more force is applied to it. You really only need to release one arm.

J.


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

My rack or truck must suck cause if I drive on a slightly bumpy road it loosens up, I drove on 3 miles of dirt road (near blue diamond trails of Vegas) and it loosened up, then I tightened it back up when i got onto the pavement and it loosened up again while on the highway during the 4 mile drive back home. I thought it was possible that the receiver was made of a soft steel and the ball in the rack was causing deformation in the steel which loosened the rack, but I think the rack just gets loose. maybe I'll put more threadlock on the bolt that goes in to the rack???

Oh well. . .guess nothings perfect.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Call and check with them but try what I do when installing the rack in the hitch. I start to tighten it and when I feel resistance, I lift the rack up a bit and for a half turn or so, it becomes easy again (like it took up the angle-created slop). Then it tightens down normally. It has not come loose ever. I move the rack between vehicles and no issues.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Got my 1Up single Quik Rack about 2 weeks ago, and just got my add-on. Man, what a great design. I originally installed the rack in a few minutes, and the add-on took about 30 seconds to put on. Feels super solid. It'll live on my Outback in single-bike mode 90% of the time since I usually ride alone (and with the add-on it definitely obscured my license plate in the folded up position).
Anyhow, VERY pleased with this rack. I'm using it with a 2" hitch and the adapter. Will keep an eye on it to see if I experience any loosening but it hasn't happened yet.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

We have a four. Its a lot to tilt up and down (up more than down) given the location of the locking latch. My wife has a shoulder problem and can't manage the 4 but she's ok with just 3 trays. One of the reasons we spent a little extra for the 1up was because you can reduce 1 spot at a time. Hanging 4 off the car with any rack is a PITA and its nice to be able to never be carrying more spots than you need.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

jonshonda said:


> Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.


Here are some pics from a couple cars ago... as mentioned it's a bit awkward to pull the release and shoulder it up, but not too bad.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.


The fold up option works fine and is useful. The tilt down with 4 bikes is really not useful although most people think it's a "must have" feature when they buy it.

J.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

007 said:


> I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.


I just noticed my hitch has bold inside stopping any hitch to go past 4". So now I do just have enough clearance but am in the same boat as you where I can only insert it 4" and not to the recommended amount. What is the major issue not putting the ball in 2 inches? Is it the rack breaking or coming out?

I hope there right. I have the 1.25 receiver. Currently only using 1 bike.

I used it for the first time yesterday and felt sturdy. Since it was my first time ever with my bike on a rack I was watching it closely. It was moving side to side a bit (not left right but towards and away from the car) Didn't have any movement up or down.

EDIT: Just got an email back from them. They only said "that will still work great".


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## DehicaBike (Oct 11, 2015)

*Yes, 1up Racks DO FALL OFF! What you need to know...*

Although I've often looked on MTBR for information, I've never felt compelled to register and comment until now. I've seen some comments on this 1up post about a Troll, people not believing this rack could fail, etc. You can believe what you want, but here our real story and I believe my husband posted about this on several threads as a warning! We bought the single 1up rack a while back for our Prius so he could keep it on all the time and bring his bike to work to do rides after. We always used Thule T2 racks before and have both a 2 bike + 4 bike Thule set up. He was really impressed by the 1up, so we bought the 2nd bike add-on and switched the Thule out on our truck for our last road trip to Oregon (using the 2" 1Up adapter with 2 bikes). Before leaving Oregon the rack was tightened, as it did loosen after the 7+ hour drive. We did not do any off road driving on this trip, just rode from the paved trailheads. I was about 2 hours into the drive home, driving back on 1-5 going about 65 mph, when the car next to me started waving at me and pointing back. To my surprise the rack with our 2 carbon fiber bikes had fallen off and the Semi truck behind had swerved and missed hitting them as the 1up rack with our 2 bikes slid down the highway before coming to a stop and toppling over! By some miracle the only damage to the bikes was a broken handle bar, as they didn't get hit by any of the other vehicles and somehow stayed upright until the end. If we didn't have a truck, we would not have been able to get the bikes and rack home, the rack was not useable once it fell off, no set screw to be found. I'm including photos so you can see just how lucky we were. The semi pulled over along with a few other cars and pulled the bikes out of the lane before I could turn around and get back to them.

When I called 1up I was told that the racks do loosen especially on certain vehicles (seems to depend on the suspension) and on bumpy roads and that we were supposed to use the Velcro strap to stop it from falling out until we tighten it. Yes, they suggest tightening it every time you put in gas or more often on a bumpy road. 1up told us that they would not replace the rack but if we sent it back to them they could "repair it". I asked about the cost of repairing the handle bars and they said we could submit a claim to their insurance but we would be denied because we didn't have the Velcro strap through the hitch received as recommended in their instructions. When I said to 1up that they need to redesign this flaw, I was told that "we've sold hundreds of thousands of racks and only ever get great reviews - just look online". That's why both my husband and I have been spreading the word about this problem. If you have the 1up with a 2" adapter and drive a truck, I'll bet you have this problem! Even though we've never seen a 1up using the Velcro straps before, I'd suggest you find the strap and use it. I believe ours got thrown out with the package, but if we decide to ship this back and start using the repaired one, you bet it will be used from now on.

We've always liked the overall design of the 1up and had talked about replacing our Thule 4 bike with a 1up 4 bike someday, but if they don't redesign this mounting screw and use a more secure pin system, I don't want to rely on a Velcro strap to save our bikes! I've just seen on a different Post some using a chain to secure it, so maybe we'll investigate that option. Just thought it would be helpful to warn others of this issue. But what do I know, I'm just a girl who likes to ride a bike.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

herder said:


> I just noticed my hitch has bold inside stopping any hitch to go past 4". So now I do just have enough clearance but am in the same boat as you where I can only insert it 4" and not to the recommended amount. What is the major issue not putting the ball in 2 inches? Is it the rack breaking or coming out?
> 
> I hope there right. I have the 1.25 receiver. Currently only using 1 bike.
> 
> ...


:lol: I got the exact same reply. I think there are pretty sizable tolerances built into their "minimums." I used the rack for the first time this past weekend, and it worked fine. I have the 2" version and there was zero play.

Someone here mentioned about inserting the rack, tightening the ball, lifting slightly, and removing the play . . . this is what I've done, and its solid. Zero movement.

Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

007 said:


> Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).


I just use a long shackle Master Lock because I had one, but if you want to go with the style that 1up offers (their price isn't too bad BTW), you can look at these:

Deadbolt Coupler lock | etrailer.com


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

007 said:


> :lol: I got the exact same reply. I think there are pretty sizable tolerances built into their "minimums." I used the rack for the first time this past weekend, and it worked fine. I have the 2" version and there was zero play.
> 
> Someone here mentioned about inserting the rack, tightening the ball, lifting slightly, and removing the play . . . this is what I've done, and its solid. Zero movement.
> 
> Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).


I'm just hoping there not saying that because we really have no options to do anything else. I'm hoping its okay.

Yeah I also noticed that if I lifted a bit after tightening I was able to give it another turn. Seems okay.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

I've had a 1up rack for a few years now, and there are a few things I don't like about it:


The tilt bar is hard to reach with three or more rack segments installed
The corners are sharp. One day I need to take a file and bevel all the corners so I stop scraping my legs
The corners of the 2" adapter are too sharp, and it doesn't easily fit in my Toyota hitch because the inside corners have some radius to them. I hastily filed it one day to make it fit, but its still a little tricky to install and remove the rack because it's a tight fit.
The red levers have started getting stuck on the base plate when I try to fold the rack. I need to lift them slightly to fold the trays to the storage position (not folded up 90 deg, but folded in towards the hitch for storage in the trunk or garage). I might grind these down a bit to clear the base plate.
There is no easy way to carry the rack from the garage to the car with 3 segments installed. It is not very ergonomic for carrying.
I think 1upusa used to have a theft guarantee, saying they would replace any rack that gets stolen, but now that there are a lot of them out there and the special wrench is more common, I don't see any mention of that on their website any more. I think I'll need to rig up something to keep the rack from getting stolen off my truck. 
When it was new, a couple of the small screws on the red levers came loose. I tightened them and added loctite, and nothing else has come loose since then.
The trays are slightly too close together, so sometimes it is difficult to position bikes so they won't hit each other.

I recently had the rack come loose a few times on a rough 4wd road (32 miles of bouncing). Luckily I had a bungee cord on it, so it shifted in (towards the truck) not out. I cranked down hard on the bolt, but when I got home the rack was stuck and extremely difficult to get out of the hitch. The 2" adapter also came loose, and I though maybe that was what made it difficult to remove. But I tightened that back up and put some loctite on that screw, and when I went to install the rack the other day I noticed that the expander ball is getting stuck, so I couldn't get it to fit in the hitch. The bolt still turns freely, but the ball doesn't go back in. Even if I could force the ball down, I'm afraid it would get stuck in the hitch again.

I should add, I'm still happy with the rack overall.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

the expander ball is stupid. Some day I might just drill it so I can put a locking hitch pin in.

For now I lock it to the hitch with a u lock.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

The newest version has a built in shackle hasp for installing a lock that blocks access to the expander bolt. I also have the old version, and I found that a little WD-40 sprayed into the receiver helps a lot with removing and inserting the rack.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

*Question related to fenders*

I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.

What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.

My thinking here is that a lot of racks just clamp the front wheel and strap the rear wheel to the tray, so this COULD work, but not having seen the design in the flesh I am just not sure.

Thanks.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

kapusta said:


> I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.
> 
> What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.
> 
> ...


I would not trust that. The racks that clamp down only on the front wheel do so just past the highest point of the wheel (towards the downtube side). The 1-up rack hits and hold the wheel before the highest point of the wheel since it is also relying on the other end being held steady and being pushed towards it. If the rear wheel isn't secured well enough, the front wheel/steer tube can rotate and the bike can fall over even when the front arm is "closed" on the wheel. MAYBE, if the reverse were true and you could get a secure fit on the rear with a loose fit on the front, then you would be OK.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

kapusta said:


> I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.
> 
> What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.
> 
> ...


Probably not the best for full fenders.

What you could do, but you'd have to satisfy yourself that it worked well, would be to drop the cross piece in the wheel part down as far as it would go on the rear wheel. Leave the front one where it should be as long as it doesn't interfere with the front fender and close it appropriately. The would push the tire up against the rear stop that should now be on the tire (depending on the fit of the rack and how low the fender goes). Then put an old toe clip strap around the rear wheel and rack were it the tire sets on the rack.

The other alternative would be to get some of those full coverage SKS fenders that a substantial but are designed to be removed quickly with a clip system. Then just take them off before you put the bikes on the rack and replace them when you put the bikes back on.

J.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

Is my locking mechanism too tight or is this normal. I've only used it a few times now and got some markings. Will it loosen up?

I should probably check what its doing to the grooves where its locked into when my bike is on.


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

^^ mine does the same. it doesn't worry me


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

It does break in with a little time.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> Probably not the best for full fenders.
> 
> What you could do, but you'd have to satisfy yourself that it worked well, would be to drop the cross piece in the wheel part down as far as it would go on the rear wheel. Leave the front one where it should be as long as it doesn't interfere with the front fender and close it appropriately. The would push the tire up against the rear stop that should now be on the tire (depending on the fit of the rack and how low the fender goes). Then put an old toe clip strap around the rear wheel and rack were it the tire sets on the rack.
> 
> J.


Thanks, this is the very solution I have been thinking about.

I called 1up and the guy I talked to suggested that if If I could not clamp the fender hard enough to stabilize the bike that I could lower the part that grips the tire to below the fender. I actually found pics on someone's blog who did this.

However, he did not seem to feel that I needed to strap the wheel to the tray. That does not make sense to me because I would be clamping the wheel just over halfway down, so it would be easy to pull it up out of the rack.

I think what you are suggesting would work fine. The rack arm on the rear wheel would keep the bike from sliding back, and the strap would keep it from lifting.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

kapusta said:


> Thanks, this is the very solution I have been thinking about.
> 
> I called 1up and the guy I talked to suggested that if If I could not clamp the fender hard enough to stabilize the bike that I could lower the part that grips the tire to below the fender. I actually found pics on someone's blog who did this.
> 
> ...


When I put my bike with fenders on my rack, I lower the rear cones to the lowest position. That hits right in the center of my tire, level with the axle, and my bike will bounce out if it's not secured more (I've had it happen on a short drive wen I didn't bungee it tight enough). I use a bungee cord around the bottom of the wheel to hold it down.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

Here's an update on my rack. Recap: After driving on a rough road, the rack got stuck in the hitch, and it was really difficult to get it out. The ball got stuck out.

I was able to lightly tap on the ball with a hammer to get it to go most of the way back in. I added some grease to the ball so it wouldn't get stuck, and now it only gets lightly stuck if I press it out too far. But the ball still wouldn't go in far enough to get the rack on easily, even with heavily hammering and some C clamps.

I took the mechanism apart as much as I could. It's hard with the ball pressed in and no access to anything and no idea how it works. It turns out that the screw pushes on a rod which pushes on the ball. The rod is about 1/2" diameter, maybe 6" long and appears to be the same metal as the security hex key and similarly gold finished. Over time the ball in mine dented the rod, which made a burr on the rod so it would no longer slide past the ball hole, so the ball would not retract all the way. I wanted to get the rod out to fix the end of it or replace it.

Here's how to take it apart:
Tighten the screw all the way to push the ball out, but no need to go too hard. The screw will bottom out, and that's what stops it from moving tighter. Now the ball should be far enough out (or almost far enough) that the rod can slide past it. Take the screw all the way out, and also take out the red plastic cap on the forward end of the rack. Insert a smooth metal rod through the screw hole and use it to push out the rod. The hex key will work in a pinch, but if you have to hammer it, it could damage the aluminum threads that the bolt threads into. I used a threaded rod because that's what I had lying around, but it definitely bent the threads in the screw hole a bit. If you can find a threaded rod with the same thread size as the bolt, or a longer bolt, that would work too, just thread it in. If everything is normal, you should be able to press the rod out without too much difficulty. In my case, I had to hammer it out because the burr on the rod made it not fit through the ball hole in either direction. I used a 3lb hammer to hit the threaded rod which pressed on the internal rod. But about an inch from the end it got really stuck, and no amount of hammering would move it. I could see some aluminum being pushed forward, so I tried to clear it out with a drill bit. I ended up drilling out the entire end of the internal metal rod. It was surprisingly easy to drill, probably soft metal. After that the rod slid out with minimal pressure. I ran the bolt through its threads a few times to restore the shape. That worked fairly well, but the correct size tap would have been a bit better for a smooth fit. The bolt and aluminum threads are surprisingly strong.

I emailed 1upusa, and they are sending me a replacement inner rod ("pin"). They say they are case hardened now, so I won't have the same problem again. I bought mine in September 2011, and it sounds like there was a design change some time after that.

Initially I was worried about how to lube the rack without attracting dirt or having it slide out. Having seen how it's greased from the factory, I'd recommend marine grease smeared everywhere inside the locking mechanism, and a light layer on the ball. WD-40 will wash the grease out over time, so I wouldn't use it. It's not clear if the internal pin is stainless, but if it corrodes that would be bad. The gold finish on mine, like the hex key, is probably a corrosion resistant finish, and I didn't see any trace of corrosion on it.

To prevent this from happening, I'd suggest just tightening the expander mechanism enough to keep the rack from rattling, but not cranking down on it extremely hard. And if you see it come loose, make sure to tighten it right away. Bouncing around probably puts the most pressure on the ball. Use the velcro strap or something else to secure it from falling out.

If you want to replace the expander ball mechanism with a regular hitch pin, it would be easy to do. Just take out the expander ball mechanism and drill a hole for the pin. You can even thread it with a tap for the correct size for an anti-rattle hitch pin, so you can retain the anti-rattle benefits. Just be aware that if you want an anti-rattle _locking_ hitch pin for a 1 1/4" rack in a 2" hitch then you are asking too much. 1 1/4" locking anti rattle pins are too short, and 2" ones are too wide. Also note that because the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter piece pushes the rack into one corner, it might not be in the right place for a through bolt in a 2" hitch. I think the bar will be higher than the hole. I have an adaptable cargo carrier, and the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter piece centers it vertically so hitch pins still work.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

m85476585 said:


> To prevent this from happening, I'd suggest just tightening the expander mechanism enough to keep the rack from rattling, but not cranking down on it extremely hard. And if you see it come loose, make sure to tighten it right away. Bouncing around probably puts the most pressure on the ball. Use the velcro strap or something else to secure it from falling out.


I think this is the key for using the rack. The whole purpose of the ball is to fit up in a corner of the receiver and create friction to prevent the rack from sliding out of the receiver. You don't need to reef down on the mechanism, it just needs to be tight.

J.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I have been going just snug with it, lifting the rack vertically, and taking up a touch more slack in the retention mech, going just snug. Thus far, this has worked just fine. Zero play, no loosening, and the whole car moves if I try to pull the rack out.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA. 

My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright. 

Better yet, has someone used one of these on a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner or older toyota pickup? 

Really want this to work, this is the lowest profile tray style rack I could find!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

rusty904 said:


> So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA.
> 
> My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright.
> 
> ...


Sorry I can't help you with the info but I do love the 1st Gen 4runners.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

rusty904 said:


> So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA.
> 
> My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright.
> 
> ...


When the rack is the horizontal position (ready to put bikes on it, but arms folded), the 1st trays arms are 8-8.5" inches above the top of the rack's receiver. If you do 2 trays, the second tray is higher and is about 11-11.5" above the rack's receiver. That is starting about 19-20" out from the hitch, so if the tailgate extends out less than that, it will only overlap the 1st tray. When the rack is in the dropped down position (ie, so that if I bike were on it, it would be leaning away from the truck to allow trunk opening with bikes on it), the highest point is about 6" above the top of the rack's receiver. Sorry I took these measurements pretty quickly, so if they are really close for tolerances, let me know and I'll repeat them.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

albertdc said:


> When the rack is the horizontal position (ready to put bikes on it, but arms folded), the 1st trays arms are 8-8.5" inches above the top of the rack's receiver. If you do 2 trays, the second tray is higher and is about 11-11.5" above the rack's receiver. That is starting about 19-20" out from the hitch, so if the tailgate extends out less than that, it will only overlap the 1st tray. When the rack is in the dropped down position (ie, so that if I bike were on it, it would be leaning away from the truck to allow trunk opening with bikes on it), the highest point is about 6" above the top of the rack's receiver. Sorry I took these measurements pretty quickly, so if they are really close for tolerances, let me know and I'll repeat them.


Great info! I really appreciate it. I will have to take my own measurements tonight but I'm pretty sure the 1up will work for me at least in the folded position. It would be sweet if I could access the tailgate with bikes still on but I don't think any rack can do that short of a swing out top-tube rack and I'm never going back to one of those.

Too bad 1up doesn't do a cyber Monday sale!


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

rusty904 said:


> Great info! I really appreciate it. I will have to take my own measurements tonight but I'm pretty sure the 1up will work for me at least in the folded position. It would be sweet if I could access the tailgate with bikes still on but I don't think any rack can do that short of a swing out top-tube rack and I'm never going back to one of those.
> 
> Too bad 1up doesn't do a cyber Monday sale!


Should work. We've had two cars with tailgates and it hasn't been a problem. Plenty of clearance.

J.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Well with the Kuat Sherpa I have on there currently, the lowest I can get it is about 10.5" above the top of the receiver and that's with one of the plastic wheel supports removed making it a single rack. I think the 1up should work but I just wish I had gone with it in the first place.


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## jm1024 (Mar 24, 2009)

I'm purchasing a 1up over the holidays. For those of you who own these racks--what add-ons (from1up) or other accessories have you purchased after you initially bought your rack that you wished you had known you needed and purchased at the time you first bought your rack? I'm thinking things like locks (either 1up's wheel/rack locks or aftermarket), the plastic wheel holders, straps, cables, etc...I'd like to get everything in 1 or 2 purchases so I'm not already using this by the time I realize something like, "oh I really need a lock there and now I have to go get one". Thanks all!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

If you're planning on getting a fat bike, or already have one, then get the fat bike adapter. You can still carry around your skinny tire bike with the adapter on.


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## jm1024 (Mar 24, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> If you're planning on getting a fat bike, or already have one, then get the fat bike adapter. You can still carry around your skinny tire bike with the adapter on.


Nope, no fat bike and no plans to get one. But thanks for the info!


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

Just got mine with 2 extenders - wow it's beautiful. Very impressive and great design. Great people to deal with, fast shipping. Well worth the money.


















I got the key lock and krypton lock from 1up with it


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## bhull4 (Feb 20, 2013)

I just installed my 1up rack on Fusion. This rack is awesome - it literally takes seconds to load/unload my Fatboy. One question I have is bike wobble normal in this rack? I know it is not going to fall out just seems like there wouldn't be as much movement driving down the road.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

The rack attaches to your bike via the tires, ie rubber filled with air. It will have a small amount of movement. You can tighten the arms down more but some movement will always be there.


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## Hextall (Nov 25, 2013)

I tried searching the thread, but too many results came back about ensuring the rack stays in the hitch... and not what I want to figure out:

I'm thinking of getting the wheel locks that 1up sells ($19, a regular length and extended length for fat bikes):









I understand this isn't a cure all to prevent my bike getting stolen, but I've found that I've ran into stores or restuarants after riding and I'm very anxious about my bike not having any kind of lock to the rack/car. I am liking 1up's version as it's compact, and I can just keep it in my console rather than have a longer chain and lock or u-lock.

Couple of questions:

have the fat bike extensions, so I'll at least need the longer version of this lock. Any reason it wouldn't work with the non-fat bike kit installed? I shouldn't need both versions, right? I usually swap back to the regular sized kit during the summer.

- anybody have this and absolutely not recommend it?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

You won't need both versions. They work great.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

haven't owned a rack yet but i'm planning to since i'm stuffing up the rear of the car with my bike instead of having more cargo space...

what i like about this rack are:
- absence of the plastic bits, which break easily and deteriorate over time
- foldable when not in use
- not chiwanese (no harm intended)

what do not like: 
- doesn't have a 'lock' for the bike unlike the traditional ones that have beams retracting at the top tube and/or the wheel(s), which secure it with a key
- assembly screws and bolts are presented (perhaps loctite will help)
- quite costly compared to competitors

now, for 1up, i was thinking, perhaps a chain wrapped around the bb and wheels through the platform will 'deter' unwanted personalities. something like the one below...










now tell me, in your experience why i shouldn't get this rack...


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## david101372 (Mar 18, 2006)

I've read a few reviews complaining of poor customer service and while I understand their frustration, my 2 experiences (first for the HD 2" rack, and second for the fat bike spacer kit) have been fantastic. 
I ordered the spacer kit online Monday and FedX dropped them at my door on Wednesday for a $2 shipping charge.
Thanks again 1upUSA!


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## Kai_Jordyn (Oct 19, 2015)

Where are you purchasing the quick rack? Does anyone offer a discount on the rack or is it a 'fixed' price?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Kai_Jordyn said:


> Where are you purchasing the quick rack? Does anyone offer a discount on the rack or is it a 'fixed' price?


You can only order it direct from 1up USA and the price is fixed.


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## Kai_Jordyn (Oct 19, 2015)

Thanks for the information. I'll be ordering today...just wanted to make sure I didn't spend extra money when I didn't need to do so. Have a great day! KJ


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## Kai_Jordyn (Oct 19, 2015)

Update- I ordered the rack from them via telephone a short while ago. Very nice to deal with and very fast...said that they'll ship tomorrow. Since I'm in Illinois, I should have it on the 24th or so. It'll come in handy as we're looking to make a trip south over the holidays.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> now tell me, in your experience why i shouldn't get this rack...


---------
As a 1Up USA owner, I can not think of a reason in the world why you 'shouldn't' get this rack !


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

jp08865 said:


> ---------
> As a 1Up USA owner, I can not think of a reason in the world why you 'shouldn't' get this rack !


^this.

I should have saved myself a lot of money and just gotten this rack right out of the gate.

J.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store


I use a cable lock. With that I'm able to not only lock the bike (frame and wheels) to the rack but also the rack to the hitch.


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## Hextall (Nov 25, 2013)

hankscorpio said:


> Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store


I asked about this just upthread, and only got one response (they said they work great). I just ordered one, but with the knowledge that this might won't deter a determined and professional thief. I got it just to be able to lock the wheels and run into a store really quick and get rid of some of the anxiety of having an unlocked bike on my car.

I got this over a cable lock because I think cable locks are so ubiquitous that thieves are well prepared to deal with them. I'm hoping 1up's wheel lock is unique that they'd move along when seeing it. I didn't want to get some mongo chain to deal with either, as the easy to store nature of 1up's wheel lock appeals to me.

but... I haven't gotten the lock yet. so I don't actually know how it will work in the real world, including its affect on my anxiety levels.

One other thing, I would bet that there are some chain/cables/locks that offer some time of reimbursement if your bike gets stolen while locked with their product. I couldn't find any information 1up provides such a service.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

another question I have, are ALL the parts aluminum or zinc? Meaning if left on the car during rain&snow will various bolts begin to rust and just the platform will be ok?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I believe all the parts and hardware are either aluminum or stainless steel. I say this because I've left mine out on the hitch for the entire riding season thru rain (no snow) and there's no signs of rust.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

Ditto, no rust. I just took mine off this morning because it is supposed to snow overnight and they will be putting down salt. It has been on the car since early spring. I would avoid salt exposure and be sure to rinse it off if you do have to drive on a treated road.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks. I don't have a garage and I typically try and ride 3 times a week so it's a giant pita to remove the Thule double track rack I currently have. 99 percent of the time I only need 1 tray so I'm thinking 1 up would be ideal bc I could leave it on and since it's folds up and is light it wouldn't be a big deal to take it off when it snows. maybe even just throw it in the trunk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> maybe even just throw it in the trunk


That's exactly what I'd do... throw it in the trunk.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I don't have a garage either. I have two 1up racks for each of my cars. They live on the cars and are perfectly fine.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

Silentfoe said:


> I don't have a garage either. I have two 1up racks for each of my cars. They live on the cars and are perfectly fine.


Do you ever drive on salt treated roads? I wonder if I am being overly cautious?? Not a big deal, once the snow flies it might as well stay in the garage, I don't own a fat bike, so riding is over once we have snow cover.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I'm in Utah so yes. My car actually looks like crap right now and it makes me sad. I wash it pretty frequently in the winter to help.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

All the parts are aluminum, the fasteners on mine are not stainless steel, they are cadmium plated. They show NO signs of rust after being out in the weather for 3 years. I'll remove it come winter, loosed one bolt, take off the Velcro strap, pull it out of the receiver, fold it up and store it in the trunk in less than 5 minutes . Luv it..


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

Another nice thing is that all the wearable parts are replaceable - not sure if they'll wear, but for instance the "teeth" that hold the tension come right out with a few bolts. These racks are built for the long haul.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

well I won my fantasy football league last night so I'm ordering it today.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Not really sure what to say about the accessories. Personally I find it contradictory that they sell a wheel saver saying that if you have a fat bike spacer this allows you to carry smaller wheels but in the fat bike spacer description they say they wont need the original hardware b/c you can carry any bike with the fat bike spacer installed? So which is it? 

Also debating their locks. I'm leaning towards not doing that. I think a u lock from the hitch to the rack makes sense b/c it serves the purpose of security and wont allow the rack off if the hitch ball thing fails. The wheel lock seems kinda cheesy and I think I would be just as likely to throw a chain around it


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> Not really sure what to say about the accessories. Personally I find it contradictory that they sell a wheel saver saying that if you have a fat bike spacer this allows you to carry smaller wheels but in the fat bike spacer description they say they wont need the original hardware b/c you can carry any bike with the fat bike spacer installed? So which is it?
> 
> Also debating their locks. I'm leaning towards not doing that. I think a u lock from the hitch to the rack makes sense b/c it serves the purpose of security and wont allow the rack off if the hitch ball thing fails. The wheel lock seems kinda cheesy and I think I would be just as likely to throw a chain around it


I have the fat bike spacer kit on mine and still carry my 29er and it does the job without needing a wheel saver. As for locks, I use a cable or U-lock.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I keep the fat bike spacers on at all times and can carry everything from a road bike to a 5 inch fat bike. I have a u lock to keep the rack secured to the car and I use the wheel locks to secure bikes to the rack. They work great. Any lock is just a time deterrent to a random thief. A determined thief will get your bike no matter what. I also occasionally use a cable lock but it's a bit more of a hassle. The only thing I don't like about the wheel locks is that they each use a different key. I had my daughter color code all of them with finger nail polish. Works well enough.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I feel like they could make something almost like "the club" that would not allow you to separate the arms


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

hankscorpio said:


> I feel like they could make something almost like "the club" that would not allow you to separate the arms


Easy to separate the arms with one of these:








Take about 10 seconds.

J.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Yea with one of those you could break a bike out of any rack


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

hankscorpio said:


> ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?


It's going to depend on your hitch and bumper configuration and vary from car to car.

J.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

hankscorpio said:


> ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?


The newer models allow you to place a lock in front of the bolt that holds the rack in the receiver. This will help keep the rack from being stolen, but does not secure it from falling out of the receiver, you could use a velcro strap for that. If you want to secure the rack to the hitch and prevent the rack from falling out the receiver, you can use an U lock. JohnJ80 is correct, the size of the U lock that will fit varies from car to car. I suggest waiting until you install it on your hitch and then make some measurements.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I have a lock from back in my motorcycle days. The site I bought it from is now a lot bigger and deals in several locks. Many are not cheap but a good lock means they may have to saw through the rack to get the bike and that will draw too much attention and take too much time. I rarely have my bike on the rack somewhere where I can't see it but I do carry the ABUS Granit Steel O Flex 1000/100. Below is the site. It is owned by a motorcyclist. There are several locks. I prefer running it through the frame and a thick part of the rack.

Security Products - Motorcycle Locks & Security - Lockitt.com


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

JohnJ80 said:


> It's going to depend on your hitch and bumper configuration and vary from car to car.
> 
> J.


Good point


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

rdb said:


> The newer models allow you to place a lock in front of the bolt that holds the rack in the receiver. This will help keep the rack from being stolen, but does not secure it from falling out of the receiver, you could use a velcro strap for that. If you want to secure the rack to the hitch and prevent the rack from falling out the receiver, you can use an U lock. JohnJ80 is correct, the size of the U lock that will fit varies from car to car. I suggest waiting until you install it on your hitch and then make some measurements.


Yea I saw that but just figured might as well kill two birds with one stone


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

hankscorpio said:


> Yea I saw that but just figured might as well kill two birds with one stone


The problem with the ulock unless you get it exactly the right size a determined thief could just unbolt the rack from the hitch portion, slip the ulock to one side and then remove the rest of the rack from the hitch, especially if you have to install the rack not fully inserted. A thief can loosen the bolt and slide the rack further in, making it easier to slip the ulock. I leave my rack on all the time so it ends up in more places where a thief would have time to work on it. My ulock is too long, but it will at least slow a thief down. Nothing is theft proof, the best you can do is make it hard enough that the thief will move on to something easier.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.

Do you get a separate email when the rack ships with tracking info?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> View attachment 1039792
> 
> 
> I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.
> ...


This is exactly how I secure my rack to the hitch. The U-lock I use is rubber coated so I don't hear any rattling from inside the car. Also, I use a shorter lock so there isn't that much gap between the rack and the "locking" part of the lock so even if you disassemble the rack, with the still in the hitch you can't swing or slide the lock around enough to clear the rack. As many have said, it's not 100% but is a deterrent and it does keep an honest man honest.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I just don't understand what you guys mean when you say move it enough to "clear" the rack? 

wouldn't you have to unlock or cut the u lock in order to remove the rack?

I mostly want a lock as a deterrent and it seems the u lock would also serve the purpose the velcro strap does in keeping the rack from falling off in the event of failure.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

hankscorpio said:


> View attachment 1039792
> 
> 
> I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.
> ...


I think he means you can unbolt the front crossmember of the rack from the rest of the hitch thereby removing the hitch and bikes from the locked portion. I wonder if a long cable lock going around the bikes and other parts of the rack plus hitch would be a better solution. That being said, nothing is foolproof as stated above.

I received a confirmational email when it shipped with a tracking number.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

Yes, a63vette is correct, that is what I meant. With the newer racks, I would use the padlock in front of the bolt to "lock" the rack to the hitch. I would also use a ulock to secure the hitch from sliding out of the receiver. You can also use the same ulock to secure a chain to the bike frame to lock up the bike. I use a kryptonite New York noose 1213 chain. I use a separate padlock to secure the chain to the hitch, not the rack, mainly because the ulock I use is ancient and is there as more of a deterrent and to keep the rack from sliding out of the receiver, if the receiver bolt ever loosened up. I think I received a confirming email when it shipped with a tracking number, but it's been awhile.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Just got my Rack and am very happy. If you use a u-lock you can use black electrical tape to secure it and stop it from rattling.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

david101372 said:


> I've read a few reviews complaining of poor customer service and while I understand their frustration, my 2 experiences (first for the HD 2" rack, and second for the fat bike spacer kit) have been fantastic.
> I ordered the spacer kit online Monday and FedX dropped them at my door on Wednesday for a $2 shipping charge.
> Thanks again 1upUSA!


I paid a lot for my rack to be shipped to Canada. Then decided to buy two locks. $38 for the locks and $36 for shipping. I hate FedEx into Canada. USPS would be a fraction of that. If you are buying outside the lower 48 get everything at once.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Just shooting an idea out....Is there a reason you couldn't use something like this to lock the bike on the rack by preventing the arms from spreading to release it? I'm talking about the 5 min grocery store runs etc, obviously not the most secure way but honestly, i dont like leaving the bike on the rack for more than the local run into a store real quick anyway.

Also I dont know if this spreads wide enough to accommodate the 1 up. More interested in the design of it.

https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9574153/00020


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> Just shooting an idea out....Is there a reason you couldn't use something like this to lock the bike on the rack by preventing the arms from spreading to release it? I'm talking about the 5 min grocery store runs etc, obviously not the most secure way but honestly, i dont like leaving the bike on the rack for more than the local run into a store real quick anyway.
> 
> Also I dont know if this spreads wide enough to accommodate the 1 up. More interested in the design of it.
> 
> ...


Interesting. I'll have to try it. I happen to have one of those steering wheel locks in my garage somewhere. I don't need it now since my car has the best anti-theft device.... a manual transmission. Oh wait, that's not a steering wheel lock. That's a brake to steering wheel look. Got to do some measuring on the rack.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I guess a simple way to beat it would be to let the air out the tires of the bike which would allow you to pull the arms closer together and get the lock off


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> I guess a simple way to beat it would be to let the air out the tires of the bike which would allow you to pull the arms closer together and get the lock off


Or what you can do is turn the lock 90° and have one hook on the top tube of the bike and the bottom hook on the bottom of the tray. Again, without dimensions I don't know if this is possible.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

interesting thought.


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## garysol1 (Nov 15, 2012)

I simply use a Krytonite cable lock that goes through the chain hole in my trucks receiver hitch and it passes through the bikes back wheel and frame. Sure someone could cut the cable but hopefully they aren't walking around with huge bolt cutters.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Here is possibly one of the best pictures I've taken of my bike on the one up despite the fact the rack cannot be seen and there is very little you can tell about the bike


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## notso (Jan 22, 2015)

Quick question: How many add-ons have people put on the standard 1-up? I'd like to have 3 slots and I'd like to be able to put the rack on my wifes honda (1-1/4" hitch) as well as my Tahoe. I didn't see any reference on their site to adding more than 1 ad-on to the standard duty rack.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

Not sure about a 1-1/4" hitch, but the standard rack when first released was spec'ed for 3 add ons (4 slots) in a 2" hitch. 1up backed off the spec to two add ons (3 slots) at some point in a 2" hitch with the standard rack. I think for a 1.25 " hitch you might be hitting the tongue weight limit with 3 slots, fully loaded with bikes, although I am not sure. Would depend on the weight of the add ons combined with the weight of the bikes. Hopefully someone with a 1.25" hitch can comment.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

With the 1.25" version you're allowed 2 additional add ons (3 bikes total) per 1UP USA when I asked them.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

notso said:


> Quick question: How many add-ons have people put on the standard 1-up? I'd like to have 3 slots and I'd like to be able to put the rack on my wifes honda (1-1/4" hitch) as well as my Tahoe. I didn't see any reference on their site to adding more than 1 ad-on to the standard duty rack.


Originally, 1UpUSA sold what today is the 1.25" rack with an adaptor for either a 1.25 or a 2" receiver. That is the rack I bought and I bought it with three add on kits.

The reason for moving to a 1.25 and a 2" rack with separate load ratings is ultimately because the hitch ratings are different and a 1.25" receiver load limit is the limiting factor.

I have logged many, many thousands of miles on our rack with 4 bikes in it mounted to a 2" hitch even though is the same rack as the 1.25" one offered today.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Originally, 1UpUSA sold what today is the 1.25" rack with an adaptor for either a 1.25 or a 2" receiver. That is the rack I bought and I bought it with three add on kits.
> 
> The reason for moving to a 1.25 and a 2" rack with separate load ratings is ultimately because the hitch ratings are different and a 1.25" receiver load limit is the limiting factor.
> 
> ...


John, I've had my 1-¼" single with the 2" adapter for about 3 years now and seeing how they're made and the quality of material used I had no doubt it will handle 3 add-ons (4 bikes total) but when I was seeking to get add-ons I had this very concern so I asked 1UP USA how many I can add without compromising safety and warranty and they told me I can have up to 2 add-ons (3 bikes total), even when you're using the 2" adapter mounted to your 2" receiver hitch. That's not to say having 3 add-ons isn't doable. Just that in case anything happens that won't be covered under 1UP USA's warranty and if the failure caused any damage to someone else's vehicles then you'll be liable since you're operating beyond the manufacturer's recommendation. Also, you have to consider the stress limits of a 1-¼" receiver hitch on your car versus the stronger 2" hitch as you mentioned. Just throwing it out there.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

When my rack was sold, the 4 bike set up was the advertised use of the rack and for the warranty that came with the rack. There has been no recall and replacement so I believe the original warranty and spec still applies. Of course, if I used it in a 4 bike set up on a 1.25" receiver, then I would be exceeding the spec on the receiver which would be on me.

So, I'll continue to use it in the manner and for the purpose in which it was sold.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> When my rack was sold, the 4 bike set up was the advertised use of the rack and for the warranty that came with the rack. There has been no recall and replacement so I believe the original warranty and spec still applies. Of course, if I used it in a 4 bike set up on a 1.25" receiver, then I would be exceeding the spec on the receiver which would be on me.
> 
> So, I'll continue to use it in the manner and for the purpose in which it was sold.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That is true for your situation, but for people asking about the rack now, the official recommendation is a limit of 2 add-ons. So if someone gets a single rack, then 3 bikes max, or 4 bikes total if starting with a double rack. Their explanation to me is that the add-ons are held on by two bolts. The second add-on increases the stress on the first add-on's bolts. A third add-on would increase the stress on that first add-on's bolts so much they could shear off. I imagine that 3 road bikes or ultra-light XC bikes (on 3 add-ons) would be OK, but I might be nervous about heavy kids bikes, fat bikes, or DH bikes.
Perhaps a mini-U lock shackling the main rack to the first add-on would be a security blanket in case the bolts failed. The add-ons and bikes would still hit pavement and drag, but at least they would stay with you rather than going through the windshield of the car following behind.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

albertdc said:


> Perhaps a mini-U lock shackling the main rack to the first add-on would be a security blanket in case the bolts failed. The add-ons and bikes would still hit pavement and drag, but at least they would stay with you rather than going through the windshield of the car following behind.


If it were me, I'd just add a 3rd bolt to the 1st add-on for insurance.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I tried the u lock to hitch set up and found it too clunky. chain run through a tube and cut to size seems to be a good deal. very little movement and it's not hanging low


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

J_Westy said:


> If it were me, I'd just add a 3rd bolt to the 1st add-on for insurance.


I don't think that's where the concern is... or at least the only concern. I'm more worried abut the weld at the 1-¼" receiver bar and the strength of the bar itself. When you start to pile on the add-ons and essentially adding to the length of the rack you're creating a longer moment arm. Add the weight of 4 bikes on that bouncing around is just scary to me. Also, when aluminum fails it's catastrophic, meaning it just snaps. Not like steel where it's more gradual.


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

*Works on travel trailers too*

Mounted a 2" receiver model with two add ons...only three bikes used in this picture. The aluminum matches nicely. :thumbsup:


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

tonyride1 said:


> I don't think that's where the concern is... or at least the only concern. I'm more worried abut the weld at the 1-¼" receiver bar and the strength of the bar itself. When you start to pile on the add-ons and essentially adding to the length of the rack you're creating a longer moment arm. Add the weight of 4 bikes on that bouncing around is just scary to me. Also, when aluminum fails it's catastrophic, meaning it just snaps. Not like steel where it's more gradual.


Well, if your that worried you ought to be inspecting the welds each use or every 100 miles or something. It won't be like carbon fibre-bam... You'll see the first couple cracks...


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

CdaleTony said:


> Well, if your that worried you ought to be inspecting the welds each use or every 100 miles or something. It won't be like carbon fibre-bam... You'll see the first couple cracks...


I don't need to because I don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended load. Actually I only carry 2 bikes at the most. 90% of the time I'm only carrying 1 bike.


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## anothersamurai (Jul 29, 2015)

How cumbersome is it to use the four bike version? With the release bar under the tilt mechanism, it seems that it would be less than convenient to operate it with four trays attached.

We currently own the Swagman XTC-4 (http://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-4-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B000GKN45C) and have used it on many long trips. The bikes were always held securely. However, it is a pain to load the bikes and you have to take great care to not scratch the bikes. The ease of loading/unloading is what makes the 1UP USA rack attractive to me. Is it worth the significant cost of upgrading?

Any advice you can offer is appreciated. Thanks.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Its not horrible. My wife can accomplish it, but she doesn't like it; she has a bad shoulder. Much easier for her with just 3 trays. I don't give it a 2nd thought, but you do have to work out your technique. Its just a long stretch to grab the lever and the last tray at the same time.

Edit to add. 

I had a swagman 4x before the one up. Its a night and day experience. With the swagman we used to take a picture after we got it successfully loaded so we could remember which bike went where, in which direction, with which hook. A new bike to integrate was a major PITA. With the 1up, its not worth your time to remember how you loaded it last because its so much easier to adjust to solve conflicts with bars and pedals.


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## anothersamurai (Jul 29, 2015)

This is true for us also. In addition to the picture, we have a label on the rack frame that shows the location and direction of each bike. Even with all that, it is not easy to load four bikes. Thanks for your feedback.



Metamorphic said:


> ... With the swagman we used to take a picture after we got it successfully loaded so we could remember which bike went where, in which direction, with which hook...


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Agree with Metamorphic, my wife hates the 4 bike 1 up but she's 5'4" and 90lbs with the reach to match. She has to have one of my kids crawl underneath to pull the latch so she and one of the other kids can lift the rack. She typically texts me a hateful message both before and after she has to load bikes onto the car, which is often as I'm a high school coach and both of my oldest kids are on the team. Anyway, I can do it pretty easily but I have to lean in from the side. I'm 6'2.5" and over 200 lbs so a significant difference. If you're somewhere in that range, adjust and plan accordingly.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

The only real issue is releasing the lock on the rack with the 4 bike set up. You can do it with one person (we do all the time), but it's much easier with 2. Presumably, if you have 4 bikes on the rack, you have *at least* one other person around. Then just have one person take the strain off the rack (pick up slightly) while the other releases the lock. Then just flip it up. Bringing the rack down is easily done with one person.

I would think that with some creative fooling around, one could also easily do it with one person. For example, taking a piece of rope and running it from underneath the rack, over the locking bar, and then back to the back of the rack, by taking the load off the rear of the rack and pulling the rope, you could release the lock. That would make it simple to do with one person, even a small one.

J.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Silentfoe said:


> She typically texts me a hateful message both before and after she has to load bikes onto the car, which is often as I'm a high school coach and both of my oldest kids are on the team.


Just keep telling her she has a "nice rack".


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

She's actually been told that by quite a few people at mountain bike events, tongue in cheek, and she thinks it's hilarious.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

Anybody use the wheel savers? Thanks


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I often wondered about how much of a pita it would be to tilt the rack down w/ 4 bikes. My cousin has a rack and the release lever is at the back of the rack, so tilting it up/down is super easy.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> I often wondered about how much of a pita it would be to tilt the rack down w/ 4 bikes. My cousin has a rack and the release lever is at the back of the rack, so tilting it up/down is super easy.


I guess I have yet to see a rack that was "easy" to tip down or up with 4 bikes on it.

With the 1UpUSA rack, you can do it and it's relatively easy but moving a rack around with 4 bikes on it (lot of weight) is just ungainly no matter what. If I need to get into the back of our SUV, it's just easier and super fast to pop out the bike closest to the tailgate.

J.


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## NS-NV (Aug 15, 2006)

Does anyone have any long term reports on the black finish holding up in wetter climates, like the Pac NW? I have seen silver ones around, and they are holding up well.

My vanity says go black, but common sense says silver.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

My black rack has shown some signs of flaking. Limited exposure to elements last winter. A few weeks exposure this year. I just touch it up with paint marker. I prefer the black so I'll deal with it. It's not horrible. We do have over salted roads here in Michigan. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

My silver is flaking a little but that's after constant exposure for 2+ years, I never take it off. You can barely tell on the silver, I'll bet it really stands out on the black.


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

Hi! I was wondering if anybody had experience using the 1Up rack on a 2014 Forester? It has an aftermarket 2" hitch installed ( not the factory one that comes through the bumper). My current older Thule T2 requires me to use an extender for my rack to clear the bumper. This causes it to stick out a lot, and its hard to keep tight. I would like to avoid that with my next rack. Thanks!


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

scepticshock said:


> Hi! I was wondering if anybody had experience using the 1Up rack on a 2014 Forester? It has an aftermarket 2" hitch installed ( not the factory one that comes through the bumper). My current older Thule T2 requires me to use an extender for my rack to clear the bumper. This causes it to stick out a lot, and its hard to keep tight. I would like to avoid that with my next rack. Thanks!


Since you have an aftermarket hitch installed, it may be hard for anyone to answer. If you can measure how far you need the rack to extend out from your hitch in order to clear your bumper, however, you can compared to my measurements below.

When put to the minimum insertion (2" past the tightening ball), the rack gives you 3" of clearance for your bumper when the rack is folded up in the 90 degree position. You would get more clearance potentially if you would use the 45 degree folded position, but then it sticks out further behind your car. Oh, and their instructions said 2" past the tightening ball for the minimum insertion. They did not specify whether that was the center of the ball or the edge of it, so I played it safe. If you were to use the center of the ball, you'd get 3.5" of clearance. Hope that helps.


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

albertdc said:


> Since you have an aftermarket hitch installed, it may be hard for anyone to answer. If you can measure how far you need the rack to extend out from your hitch in order to clear your bumper, however, you can compared to my measurements below.
> 
> When put to the minimum insertion (2" past the tightening ball), the rack gives you 3" of clearance for your bumper when the rack is folded up in the 90 degree position. You would get more clearance potentially if you would use the 45 degree folded position, but then it sticks out further behind your car. Oh, and their instructions said 2" past the tightening ball for the minimum insertion. They did not specify whether that was the center of the ball or the edge of it, so I played it safe. If you were to use the center of the ball, you'd get 3.5" of clearance. Hope that helps.


Thanks! that does help. I think I need at least 4.5 inches of clearance to avoid the bumper. The shortest extender I can find is 8" which is super long for what I need. Its a real bummer that they installed my hitch tucked under a bit too much, so its either too short or long! I'm hoping 1ups extender is a bit shorter.


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## albertdc (Mar 2, 2007)

scepticshock said:


> Thanks! that does help. I think I need at least 4.5 inches of clearance to avoid the bumper. The shortest extender I can find is 8" which is super long for what I need. Its a real bummer that they installed my hitch tucked under a bit too much, so its either too short or long! I'm hoping 1ups extender is a bit shorter.


Weird that their website does not specify the length of their extender. They are very good about responding to phone calls or emails - I'd send them a message and ask. I'd guess theirs extends 5-6" based on the photo....


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

Why not just cut the 'extender' to the length you need and drill new holes in it for the pin ?


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

I'm waiting to hear back from them. I have thought about cutting it down, but I don't know what it would take to cut though that steel....


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

scepticshock said:


> I'm waiting to hear back from them. I have thought about cutting it down, but I don't know what it would take to cut though that steel....


It would be very simple for a machine shop . . . pretty much any hitch installer should have the tools to do it.


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## jrss13 (Aug 15, 2009)

(Double post... Sorry)


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## jrss13 (Aug 15, 2009)

I have a 2015 forester xt with the draw tite 2 inch hitch. The 1up Sat too close to my bumper, so the hitch wouldn't fold up. I ended up buying the 1up extender which I'm pretty sure was 7.5 inches. I initially was concerned about having it stick out farther than I wanted. But to be honest, I like the extra room. It allows me to fit between the bumper and the rack to retrieve stuff from my hatch

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

scepticshock said:


> I'm waiting to hear back from them. I have thought about cutting it down, but I don't know what it would take to cut though that steel....


Are you thinking about a 1-1/4 or 2" 1up?

Regardless, as suggested above, you should be able to cut down an extender or reducer and get the exact position you want. It's just mild steel.

I'd also consider a hitch tightener for the extender/reducer -- this is my favorite.

https://www.stowaway2.com/hitch-tightener


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

jrss13 said:


> View attachment 1057541
> 
> 
> I have a 2015 forester xt with the draw tite 2 inch hitch. The 1up Sat too close to my bumper, so the hitch wouldn't fold up. I ended up buying the 1up extender which I'm pretty sure was 7.5 inches. I initially was concerned about having it stick out farther than I wanted. But to be honest, I like the extra room. It allows me to fit between the bumper and the rack to retrieve stuff from my hatch
> ...


Thanks! And thanks for posting the picture! Yes, I'm sure I will have to go that route too. I can confirm that it is a 7.5" extender. I guess the extra space is nice for getting close to your hatch for loading stuff. With my Thule it always looked like it stuck out too much.

I need to mount a third bike so thats why I am leaning towards the 1Up. That and the great reviews, and what sounds like a breeze to add and take away expansion trays.


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## niloch (May 28, 2014)

About to pull the trigger but trying to decide between the 1 1/4 vs. the 2" version. I will usually be taking 2 bikes but 3 bikes will be on there on occasion (I have a 1UP roof tray which I will be using as the 2nd add on). 

The car is currently a 2" hitch, but somewhere down the road I may downsize to a car where 1 1/4" may be required. 

For those with 1 1/4" with the adapter to 2", do you experience any wobble with 3 bikes at all? Or is it pretty rock solid?


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

you can use a roof tray as an add on?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

hankscorpio said:


> you can use a roof tray as an add on?


Yep. But you need to call them to buy the part you would need. It's not on the website.


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## thorin33 (May 3, 2007)

Has anyone used an axle strap in place of the velcro strap? I'm thinking about looping the strap around my hitch and then attaching the D-rings to a shackle lock using the security holes (on the newer racks).


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I just retired my 2006 BMW 530XI wagon (loved that car) and picked up a new (to me) 2014 BMW 328xi wagon. I'm looking at put an Invisihitch on this car to keep the looks clean and then using that with my 1UpUSA rack. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on that? Don't want the hitch to get too low to the ground.

J.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> I just retired my 2006 BMW 530XI wagon (loved that car) and picked up a new (to me) 2014 BMW 328xi wagon. I'm looking at put an Invisihitch on this car to keep the looks clean and then using that with my 1UpUSA rack. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on that? Don't want the hitch to get too low to the ground.
> 
> J.


It's entirely dependent upon the individual car. I have a Torklift Ecohitch on my Subaru and love it; completely stealth and concealed behind the bumper. Dunno if it would be the same on the BMW.


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## herder (Mar 20, 2015)

niloch said:


> About to pull the trigger but trying to decide between the 1 1/4 vs. the 2" version. I will usually be taking 2 bikes but 3 bikes will be on there on occasion (I have a 1UP roof tray which I will be using as the 2nd add on).
> 
> The car is currently a 2" hitch, but somewhere down the road I may downsize to a car where 1 1/4" may be required.
> 
> For those with 1 1/4" with the adapter to 2", do you experience any wobble with 3 bikes at all? Or is it pretty rock solid?


I'd also like to know about the adapter. I have the 1 1/4 now and only use one bike with my car. Wondering if a family member should add a hitch to there cx5 so we can use my rack with the adapter.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

If you mean the piece that is removable on the tongue as the adaptor then I can tell you it works fine in a 2" receiver. Before 1upusa made two racks, that's all there was and you could run 4 bikes on it with three add in trays. That's what we have and have routinely used it on 2500 mile cross country Minnesota to Colorado trips. Works great. We've had one for about as long as they've been making them. I'm bet we've done that over 20,000 miles by now. 

The 1upusa design pretty much seized the rack tongue up in he receiver.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

herder said:


> I'd also like to know about the adapter. I have the 1 1/4 now and only use one bike with my car. Wondering if a family member should add a hitch to there cx5 so we can use my rack with the adapter.


I have both the 1 1/4 and the 2 version, the 1 1/4 for my Subaru and the 2 for truck. I picked up the 1 1/4 first and was swapping it back and forth between the car and the truck for awhile before picking up the 2. I've run it with 3 bikes many times on long trips and on dirt roads. I was tempted to put a 4th tray on there a couple of times. I actually think it would work just fine as they used to allow 4 bikes on the 1 1/4 racks when they 1st came out, but I figure I better not risk it.

The 1 1/4 is a solid option for sure. The adapter is a chunk of metal that attaches really quickly with an allen bolt. There is no wobble in the rack/hitch interface with adapter in place. When you have 3 bikes you will see some flex/sway in the rack, especially if your on bumpy dirt roads and such, but it's not swaying around like crazy. It's mostly bobs up and down more with the additional bike. It's probably as much flex as you get with 4 bikes on the 2 rack. I'd say it has less sway/wobble than the Thule/Yakima/etc hitch racks with only 2 bikes on it. Those things rattle around like crazy.


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

woodyak said:


> I have both the 1 1/4 and the 2 version ... I've run it with 3 bikes many times on long trips and on dirt roads. I was tempted to put a 4th tray on there a couple of times.


Thanks for that info - it sounds like if I'm only ever going to have 2 bikes on there that I could stick with the 1.25" w/ adapter in my 2" receiver, and then save 5 pounds of rack weight. With my housing situation we can't leave the rack on the car - I do a lot of parallel parking in the neighborhood and spots can be small - so saving 5 pounds of constantly mounting and dismounting the rack seems like a good deal to me.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

SchralphMacchio said:


> Thanks for that info - it sounds like if I'm only ever going to have 2 bikes on there that I could stick with the 1.25" w/ adapter in my 2" receiver, and then save 5 pounds of rack weight. With my housing situation we can't leave the rack on the car - I do a lot of parallel parking in the neighborhood and spots can be small - so saving 5 pounds of constantly mounting and dismounting the rack seems like a good deal to me.


 You'll be fine. I've carried 2 mountain bikes on a 1-¼" rack with the 2" adapter for hundreds of miles without any issues so you'll be fine.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

So, did it fix the wobble? I just posted a new thread about this, as I didn't want to go thru 100+ pages of the 1Up thread, but here is the solution (?) on the last page.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

What wobble?


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

tonyride1 said:


> What wobble?


I was responding to DUNXXX's post about the front wheel wobble he was getting when the car is moving at a good clip.

1up Quick Rack Quick Review. - Page 110- Mtbr.com


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

Couple of things:

I love my rack, I inherited mine from the estate of Steve Wolf. It wasn't the part you put on the hitch, it was a tray, but I got the parts I needed from 1Up. Love their shipping charges, they don't try to ream you like other companies might do. Only thing is, I can't fold my rack up with this configuration, but *shrug* oh, well.

I drilled mine out just a tad so I could put a lock with a long shackle over the special allen lock thingy. It allows me to lock the rack to my car and also has room for a small safety cable instead of the dumb Velcro strap 1Up sends.









Also, I love that I can fold the arms in to almost the bumper so that if I leave the rack on, I'm not banging my shins into it.









What does the shimmy-free part cost, and what is 1Up charging for the special allen wrench that is needed? I lost one already. :madmax:


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Wouldn't it be better if you just tilted the rack up 90 degrees?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> Wouldn't it be better if you just tilted the rack up 90 degrees?


His doesn't fold up. It's a hybrid made from an add on kit and the non tilting platform that 1UpUSA sells. Otherwise, yes.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> His doesn't fold up. It's a hybrid made from an add on kit and the non tilting platform that 1UpUSA sells. Otherwise, yes.
> 
> J.


Oh, OK.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

SchralphMacchio said:


> Thanks for that info - it sounds like if I'm only ever going to have 2 bikes on there that I could stick with the 1.25" w/ adapter in my 2" receiver, and then save 5 pounds of rack weight. With my housing situation we can't leave the rack on the car - I do a lot of parallel parking in the neighborhood and spots can be small - so saving 5 pounds of constantly mounting and dismounting the rack seems like a good deal to me.


Forgot to respond to this -

The 1.25" version used to come with a piece that made it work in a 2" receiver and you could put 4 bikes on the rack (3 expansion kits plus basic rack). The problem was that users would put 4 bikes on the rack and then stick it in a 1.25" receiver which was not designed for that load (exceeds a 1.25" tongue weight spec). So they had to discontinue that rack.

That said, I have one of those and we've driven cross country many times with 4 bikes on that rack but stuck in a 2" receiver over maybe 10-12,000 miles. So I would have zero qualms about 2,3 and even 4 bikes on the 1.25" rack if in a 2" receiver.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Forgot to respond to this -
> 
> The 1.25" version used to come with a piece that made it work in a 2" receiver and you could put 4 bikes on the rack (3 expansion kits plus basic rack). The problem was that users would put 4 bikes on the rack and then stick it in a 1.25" receiver which was not designed for that load (exceeds a 1.25" tongue weight spec). So they had to discontinue that rack.
> 
> ...


 With the 1-¼" version even with the 2" adapter you're only allowed to have 2 additional racks totaling 3 bikes. That's what 1UP USA told me when I ordered mine.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> With the 1-¼" version even with the 2" adapter you're only allowed to have 2 additional racks totaling 3 bikes. That's what 1UP USA told me when I ordered mine.


I know that. My point was that the rack is limited to 3 bikes not because of the rack but because there would be some moron that would try and put 4 bikes on a 1.25" receiver and exceed the load capacity of the receiver - and then blame 1UpUSA. The rack used to be more flexible and they had one rack that worked in any receiver size but it was the responsiblity of the user to not overload the receiver. That apparently didn't work for them, or at least didn't work for their lawyers or insurance carrier.

So, you probably shouldn't put 4 bikes on it. Truthfully, that wouldn't bother me much knowing what I know. I run 4 bikes on my rack because it was sold to me that way with the proviso that one must not overload the receiver and there has not been a recall on the rack. It's the same rack as the current 1.25" rack but they have a bolt on piece that makes the tongue fit a 2" receiver. Take that off with an allen wrench and it then fits a 1.25" receiver.

This is one of those things with specs by a lawyer because someone who used one was an idiot. So now we all suffer.

J.


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## EricfromBrooklyn (Feb 10, 2013)

I've seen a few of you using these with spare tires on the back. Any issues clearing the spare, or do you need to buy an extension? I'm currently using a spare mounted rack, and that thing sucks. Pics of clearance, especially clearing an all terrain tire would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

That depends on the vehicle and size of tire. With 35" MTR MTs on my Wrangler, I do need the 1UP locking extension. My tire does sit slightly lower. Many other tire carriers carry the tires higher. Still, here is mine:


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

The only downside of this carrier so far...if I mount two large-sized bikes, the adjustability is not enough. A slightly longer tray may help. I sometimes get into a situation where brake levers will contact the seat post- usually an adjustable seat post and I really have to fiddle with the adjustment and wrap the seat post with something soft so as not to knick it. With the T2, we can put the same two bikes ad adjust the bars slightly offset to where this does not happen. Anyway, I'd still buy the same rack for my other vehicle (and I do need a second rack) but that is the one con (in my case). It takes a while to get it all sorted so the seat post does not get knicked eventually by constant rubbing or tapping. I'll start carrying some pipe insulating foam.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I don't understand your statement. I use a 1up 2place and with our bikes or a friends I just mount the bikes one way or the other to eliminate rub. Something I couldn't do with my Yakima.
This was one of the appeals of 1up, not having to carry foam tape.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

With such wide bars now, we can't mount it the same way...the bars are at the same height. Flip one around and I have the issue I described. It happens only with two large similarly sized large bikes and only with my primary riding buddy. My GF has smaller bikes and no issue when I carry my road bike and MTB. We have ended up using his T2 a few times on long drives.


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

on mine I have to mount the first bike all the way one direction. I always put front tire left, and only 1 click of locking on the front tire. 2nd bike the same other direction. This maximizes the clearances. You also have to be careful of pedal placement so they don't $)*#&)& up another frame.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I will try that but I worry about leaving an arm so far horizontal...afraid the pressure may make that arm give way. With my 29er, the issue is exacerbated, of course. Maybe the solution is to buy a 27.5er.


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## EricfromBrooklyn (Feb 10, 2013)

Flyer said:


> That depends on the vehicle and size of tire. With 35" MTR MTs on my Wrangler, I do need the 1UP locking extension. My tire does sit slightly lower. Many other tire carriers carry the tires higher. Still, here is mine:


Thanks! I'm running much smaller tires, basically 32", on a 3rd gen 4runner with a CBI hybrid bumper/swingout spare carrier. Maybe it'll fit? I'll drop them a line, I don't find the dimensions listed on their site.

Also, any reason to get the "super duty" as opposed to the regular? My hitch is 2", but the regular apparently fits both, and even my dh rig isn't close to 50lbs.


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## Krause (Jun 21, 2006)

How's the alignment of the 2 arms on everyone's? I just got 2 1up rails for my roof rack and 1 seemed perfectly aligned and the other seems off by a bit:

















It's not horrible, but definitely doesn't seem like it should be like that.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

My arms are not straight when they are closed. They look like yours above . . . I have not worried about it.


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## Krause (Jun 21, 2006)

007 said:


> My arms are not straight when they are closed. They look like yours above . . . I have not worried about it.


Well thats good to know, I wouldnt of gave it a second thought if the other was the same way.


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## agtuck (Jul 19, 2007)

Sorry if this has been asked before, didn't read through all 120 pages of this thread. I'm looking at getting a 1up rack for my wife's car (Volvo XC90). It's a 2" hitch and we sometimes need to carry 4 bikes so I was going to get the Heavy Duty 2-bike rack with 2 add-on trays. Thing is I'd like to also be able to use the rack on my car (Subaru Outback), which has a 1 1/4" hitch. Can I use the 2" rack (with 1 or 2 bikes only) with an adapter on a 1 1/4" hitch? The 1up website says the Heavy Duty rack "cannot be reduced to 1 1/4" but I don't know if they're just worried about someone putting 3-4 bikes on a class II rack. I know that an adapter will set the rack back a little ways (similar to an extender), I can live with that.

Another option would be getting a single rack for the Outback and sharing add-on trays. But that's another $300 on top of the $900+ I'd already be spending. Or I can just stick to the roof rack on the Outback.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

agtuck said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before, didn't read through all 120 pages of this thread. I'm looking at getting a 1up rack for my wife's car (Volvo XC90). It's a 2" hitch and we sometimes need to carry 4 bikes so I was going to get the Heavy Duty 2-bike rack with 2 add-on trays. Thing is I'd like to also be able to use the rack on my car (Subaru Outback), which has a 1 1/4" hitch. Can I use the 2" rack (with 1 or 2 bikes only) with an adapter on a 1 1/4" hitch? The 1up website says the Heavy Duty rack "cannot be reduced to 1 1/4" but I don't know if they're just worried about someone putting 3-4 bikes on a class II rack. I know that an adapter will set the rack back a little ways (similar to an extender), I can live with that.
> 
> Another option would be getting a single rack for the Outback and sharing add-on trays. But that's another $300 on top of the $900+ I'd already be spending. Or I can just stick to the roof rack on the Outback.


The issue is the load capacity of a 1.25" hitch which is not rated for the full up load of the 4 bike 1Up rack. So you should probably never put 4 bikes on the subaru with it's small hitch.

Another option would be to get the 1.25" that goes to 2" and use that for 3 bikes and put the fourth on the roof. I would do this especially if it's a "sometime" thing. I like having the ability to scale the rack down to 1 bike.

J.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Somewhere in this thread is a posting about someone who experienced the locking ball mechanism not retreating into the hitch tongue when loosened. (I recalled it from somewhere) It looks like this is likely happening to mine. I think they drilled out the a red(?) plastic piece from the rear of the tongue to release to rack? 

Does this sound familiar to anyone?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

agtuck said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before, didn't read through all 120 pages of this thread. I'm looking at getting a 1up rack for my wife's car (Volvo XC90). It's a 2" hitch and we sometimes need to carry 4 bikes so I was going to get the Heavy Duty 2-bike rack with 2 add-on trays. Thing is I'd like to also be able to use the rack on my car (Subaru Outback), which has a 1 1/4" hitch. Can I use the 2" rack (with 1 or 2 bikes only) with an adapter on a 1 1/4" hitch? The 1up website says the Heavy Duty rack "cannot be reduced to 1 1/4" but I don't know if they're just worried about someone putting 3-4 bikes on a class II rack. I know that an adapter will set the rack back a little ways (similar to an extender), I can live with that.
> 
> Another option would be getting a single rack for the Outback and sharing add-on trays. But that's another $300 on top of the $900+ I'd already be spending. Or I can just stick to the roof rack on the Outback.


If you can deal with a 2 bike limit on the Subie, you can get an "adapter"

1UPUSA.com Quik Rack Add-On Adapter (Silver)

and use your two add-ons. This is what I do on my fiesta. Downside is it doesn't fold.

Otherwise, I'd put a 2" hitch on the Subie.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

agtuck said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before, didn't read through all 120 pages of this thread. I'm looking at getting a 1up rack for my wife's car (Volvo XC90). It's a 2" hitch and we sometimes need to carry 4 bikes so I was going to get the Heavy Duty 2-bike rack with 2 add-on trays. Thing is I'd like to also be able to use the rack on my car (Subaru Outback), which has a 1 1/4" hitch. Can I use the 2" rack (with 1 or 2 bikes only) with an adapter on a 1 1/4" hitch? The 1up website says the Heavy Duty rack "cannot be reduced to 1 1/4" but I don't know if they're just worried about someone putting 3-4 bikes on a class II rack. I know that an adapter will set the rack back a little ways (similar to an extender), I can live with that.
> 
> Another option would be getting a single rack for the Outback and sharing add-on trays. But that's another $300 on top of the $900+ I'd already be spending. Or I can just stick to the roof rack on the Outback.


By adapter, you mean some sort of aftermarket generic adapter that converts a 1.25" hitch to 2"? That would work fine as long as you stay at two bikes, could probably even go to three bikes. It would stick out further, but you said only two bikes, which would probably stick out less than a three bike rack on a hitch without an adaptor. Originally 1up spec'ed 4 racks for the original 1.25" rack with the 2" adapter, but people were installing 4 bikes in a 1.25" hitch, which was too much weight for the hitch, not the rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

rdb said:


> By adapter, you mean some sort of aftermarket generic adapter that converts a 1.25" hitch to 2"? That would work fine as long as you stay at two bikes, could probably even go to three bikes. It would stick out further, but you said only two bikes, which would probably stick out less than a three bike rack on a hitch without an adaptor. Originally 1up spec'ed 4 racks for the original 1.25" rack with the 2" adapter, but people were installing 4 bikes in a 1.25" hitch, which was too much weight for the hitch, not the rack.


I have one of the original 1Up racks that were spec'ed for either size hitch and for up to 4 bikes anywhere. The rack would hold it no problem (as I suspect the current multi receiver size version would) and we've done thousands up thousands of miles with 4 bikes on the back. Some idiot, I'm sure, loaded up 4 bikes on a 1.25" hitch that wasn't rated for that tongue weight and caused the problem.

J.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

JohnJ80 said:


> I have one of the original 1Up racks that were spec'ed for either size hitch and for up to 4 bikes anywhere. The rack would hold it no problem (as I suspect the current multi receiver size version would) and we've done thousands up thousands of miles with 4 bikes on the back. Some idiot, I'm sure, loaded up 4 bikes on a 1.25" hitch that wasn't rated for that tongue weight and caused the problem.
> 
> J.


Yup, and the idiot blamed everyone else but himself. Nothing is idiot proof until you get rid of all the idiots.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

rdb said:


> Yup, and the idiot blamed everyone else but himself. Nothing is idiot proof until you get rid of all the idiots.


Yep. Obviously can't recommend that the "new" 1.25/2" combo units can be used with 4 bikes because the mfg doesn't recommend that. Since they haven't rescinded or recalled our rack, we can use it with 4 bikes presuming we don't exceed the tongue weight spec of the receiver. But its the same rack. Is that stupid or what?

If the primary use mode above would be for 3 bikes or less with an occasional 4th bike, I'd go with the combo version and a roof tray for that time I needed a 4th.

J.


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## agtuck (Jul 19, 2007)

JohnJ80 said:


> The issue is the load capacity of a 1.25" hitch which is not rated for the full up load of the 4 bike 1Up rack. So you should probably never put 4 bikes on the subaru with it's small hitch.


Yeah, I would only be putting 2 bikes on the Subaru max even with the 2" rack. Just didn't know if there were other reasons to avoid an adapter.



> Another option would be to get the 1.25" that goes to 2" and use that for 3 bikes and put the fourth on the roof. I would do this especially if it's a "sometime" thing. I like having the ability to scale the rack down to 1 bike.


That's an idea, cheaper and the single rack will be easier for my wife to take on and off the car. I assume the 1.25" rack is plenty stable even with 3 bikes?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

It'd be cheaper to get a new 2" hitch for the Subaru than to buy a second, single spot 1up. Probably be a good idea and make your rack more versatile.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

agtuck said:


> Yeah, I would only be putting 2 bikes on the Subaru max even with the 2" rack. Just didn't know if there were other reasons to avoid an adapter.
> 
> That's an idea, cheaper and the single rack will be easier for my wife to take on and off the car. I assume the 1.25" rack is plenty stable even with 3 bikes?


Yes, it's plenty stable even with four. . I was using what is now the 1.25"/2" combo rack in a 2" receiver but that wouldnt matter.

If I ever had to carry just a single bike, I'd not want to give up the option of being able to use just a single tray. It's so trim and easy to install for a single bike. I would go to considerable lengths to avoid a double tray rack if I would ever need a single.

J.


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## mundane (Jun 10, 2012)

i have a superbumper with spare receiver (see pic). it's in a 2" draw-tite hitch ('10 subaru forester). do you guys think i'd encounter a problem putting a 1upusa rack on it?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

mundane said:


> i have a superbumper with spare receiver (see pic). it's in a 2" draw-tite hitch ('10 subaru forester). do you guys think i'd encounter a problem putting a 1upusa rack on it?


No. An you can always take it out.

What's the purpose of that. Back into something with that and it puts the force right to the frame of your car.


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## mundane (Jun 10, 2012)

JohnJ80 said:


> No. An you can always take it out.
> 
> What's the purpose of that. Back into something with that and it puts the force right to the frame of your car.


thanks!

btw it's an impact/crash attenuator. you can read more about it from its website superbumper,com


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Just read a few posts back.. The ONLY downside to the 2 inch receiver-2 bike rack is the weight if you don't need two bikes on there all the time. I rarely do two bikes, so I have the 1-1/4" Single, plus I bought an add-on tray for those rare occasions. The weight savings was worth it to me. And it fits both my SUV (2 inch) and my camper accessory receiver (1-1/4 inch). I don't anticipate ever needing to get rid of it, but it will be easier to sell as a 1-1/4" also because it will fit class 1 and 2 receivers, as well as class 3.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I also have the 1.25 for the same reason, 95% of the time I only need one tray. I will also add though that I've used it on the 2 inch hitch with the adapter and there was zero issue with that, very solid


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

hankscorpio said:


> I also have the 1.25 for the same reason, 95% of the time I only need one tray. I will also add though that I've used it on the 2 inch hitch with the adapter and there was zero issue with that, very solid


Same here. The times I did carry two bikes with the 2" adapter driving my wife's SUV with a 2" hitch, we traveled about 250 miles each way and there were no issues at all.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mundane said:


> i have a superbumper with spare receiver (see pic). it's in a 2" draw-tite hitch ('10 subaru forester). do you guys think i'd encounter a problem putting a 1upusa rack on it?


I absolutely would not mount the bike rack to it. As suggested, I would take it off and mount the bike rack directly to the receiver.


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

I don't know if it has been said before, as this is pretty long, but here is what I like about the 1up.

I got the 2 bike tray, it is a bit heavier but it works for my bike and my wife's. I can get that sucker on my 4Runner (2in receiver) in literally 1 minute. I can get my bike on there in about 30 seconds. No plastic parts or straps to later get weather beaten and break. After a hard ride, I can roll up to the truck and get my bike on it and secured in 30 seconds and done. I'm outa there! I don't have to screw around doing all kinds of stuff to get it secure, as I see others doing with their set up. I can also get the rack off my truck in about a minute. 

I just really love how stupid easy this thing is to use, so simple. What I hesitated on was the price of the rear 2 bike tray, expensive indeed. I was considering the Kuat. However, it has been worth every penny.


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## BKXC (Nov 26, 2011)

I guess I'll throw my love into this thread as well. Fantastic rack.


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

Just one bit of info for those with Subarus, and this might apply to other cars as well ... On my 2016 Forester with a single carrier 1up, I can keep the rack on the car, folded up with no bike, and have zero interference with rear backup camera. The 2nd rack really interferes with my camera and I can kind of see okay, but it's far from optimal for parking or other purposes.

I ended up getting the Curt 2" Receiver for my 2016 Forester and the standard 1up rack with a 2nd bike add-on unit. I leave the single unit installed with a padlock covering the security bolt in the hitch. The rack folds right into the crease on my rear bumper as if it was designed to fit snugly in there. I can open with a single unit, no interference, and need to pop the rack into the diagonal position to open it with the add-on unit. I park my car on public streets at night, and put on the add-on unit for 2 bike carry as needed. I also have 2 Yak trays I throw on the roof as needed to get a 4-bike carry to be the shuttle car.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Guess it depends on what Subaru. You can't just make a blanket statement. On my XV with a Curt 2" hitch and a 2 bike 1up, I can easily use the back up camera and open my rear hatch, all without interference from the rack.


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

^ yeah, thanks for the XV info. I meant to clarify the Forester thing upfront. Post edited to make that more clear.

Anyways, very happy with my Forester and 1up.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

After all the rave reviews, I finally bit the bullet.
Got the heavy duty 2 bike rack ordered! Excited.


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

You won't be disappointed, I have the same one.


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

EricfromBrooklyn said:


> Also, any reason to get the "super duty" as opposed to the regular? My hitch is 2", but the regular apparently fits both, and even my dh rig isn't close to 50lbs.


Any opinions/experience with this? I too am looking at a 1Up for use with two trail bikes, never any DH bikes but would like the strongest/most stable setup for dirt road/washboard use. 2" hitch, Tacoma, I can handle a few extra pounds rack weight if it has any benefits for a lighter bike.


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

Super Duty comes with 2 trays. The 2nd tray is not removable so it's good if you're going to be carrying multiple bikes all the time. It's also harder to steal the 2nd tray since it's permanently attached. I just got the Super Duty for my Tacoma Double Cab. Please note that when folded up, it covers the cars plates so that may cause some trouble with the law.


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

flipnidaho said:


> Super Duty comes with 2 trays. The 2nd tray is not removable so it's good if you're going to be carrying multiple bikes all the time. It's also harder to steal the 2nd tray since it's permanently attached. I just got the Super Duty for my Tacoma Double Cab. Please note that when folded up, it covers the cars plates so that may cause some trouble with the law.


Not according to 1Up's website ... the Super Duty is a stronger version of the heavy duty, and is in fact available in a one-bike configuration (or two-bike) So, are you sure you have a Super Duy, not Heavy Duty, and if so, do you think the extra support bar (per 1Up) is worth it? I've sent an email to 1Up requesting clarification on the difference but no response. The SD is $30 more than the HD and weighs 1 lb more.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

dman_mb1 said:


> Any opinions/experience with this? I too am looking at a 1Up for use with two trail bikes, never any DH bikes but would like the strongest/most stable setup for dirt road/washboard use. 2" hitch, Tacoma, I can handle a few extra pounds rack weight if it has any benefits for a lighter bike.


I bought a super duty 2 bike for my Jeep and a quick rack 1 bike for my wife's Jeep. We travel off road to trailheads a lot and I mostly drive like a idiot so I thought the super duty would be better. It does weigh more. If you take your rack off and on a lot you will notice it. If you buy a 1 bike and add a tray there is more stuff to come loose.
For a regular person who doesn't have DH bikes I would buy the regular quick rack 2bike.


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

dman_mb1 said:


> Not according to 1Up's website ... the Super Duty is a stronger version of the heavy duty, and is in fact available in a one-bike configuration (or two-bike) So, are you sure you have a Super Duy, not Heavy Duty, and if so, do you think the extra support bar (per 1Up) is worth it? I've sent an email to 1Up requesting clarification on the difference but no response. The SD is $30 more than the HD and weighs 1 lb more.


My bad, you are right. I got the Heavy Duty. I stand corrected.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Mine was delivered, this thing is a piece of art!
Makes my Thule sidearm look pretty cheesy honestly.

Look forward to trying it out.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

I recently bought the fat tire kit for my standard single rack 1up. Installation was straightforward. It works well on both the fat tire bike (4.2" approx width tire) and still works fine on my 29er bike too (2.3" tire). 

It does look strange when the 2.3" tire is in there, but the bike does not wiggle any more than it originally did. FYI the tire clips that are sold for skinny tires will not work on tires over 2" wide. Those plastic clips are really for road bikes. I emailed 1up and they gave me a straight answer. 

My rack was purchased in Summer 2013, and it still looks new and works the same. I use it on my SUV with the 2" receiver and also on the back of my camper trailer that has a 1-1/4" receiver. So far the most bike's I've had on it are 2, but I may buy a third tray later this year for an epic trip next year.


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## StreamRider (Jun 18, 2010)

How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


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## BKXC (Nov 26, 2011)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


Maybe 5 minutes? It takes a bit of effort and it's a little awkward, but I've only done it a few times.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


I just did that today and it took me about 2 minutes to put on and take off.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


As long as it take to put 3, quarter turns on a stiff pair of allen bolts, then 4 or 6 more finger-tight turns.


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## rdb (Jul 10, 2012)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


It will take you longer to actually get the add on from wherever you store it, then to actually attach it. First loosen the two hex bolts as far as they will go, you can just use your fingers for this, unless you really tighten them down when you don't have the add on installed. Pick up add on with both hands, put it on the bolts then slide to the right. It will stay in place while you go to look for the hex wrench that you forgot to get out when you got the add on .  Hold add on with on hand and use your fingers to tighten bolts finger tight. You may have to wiggle the add on a bit to take pressure off the bolts so you can use your fingers. Use hex wrench to fully tighten bolts. The hex wrench won't spin a full 360, so easier to use fingers until the bolts won't move anymore then finish tightening with wrench

The above may sound complicated, but it is actually easy and takes only a minute or so.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?


Not long. Two security bolts similar to the one that is used on the hitch.

It's easier if the rack is folded up on the receiver, and not laying flat. The add-on tray is slid onto the 1up using the two bolts as guides, then the bolts are tightened down. That's it. Watch this video on YouTube. He does it the hard way by leaving the rack down (horizontal). Do it when it's folded up (vertical) it's easier.

Skip to 50 seconds in.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

StreamRider said:


> How long does it take to add/remove an Add On to the Quik Rack?







Adding an add on takes much less than one minutes. I'd estimate about 30 seconds if you're slow.

J.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

With wrench handy, it take 30 seconds to a minute....probably 2-3 minutes if you chug down a chilled beer, get brain freeze, and drop the wrench.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

You should keep the security wrench in your cars glove box. That way it's always near to where you need to use it, especially if you are out and about and need to tighten up the rack/hitch interface.


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

Do the 1upUSA roof bike trays fit with the BMW OEM Roof Rack? https://amzn.com/B001N3B3N6

I'm considering the 1upUSA trays or the Thule BigMouth trays but I'm not sure if either will work on the BMW OEM Roof Rack...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

yuppie said:


> Do the 1upUSA roof bike trays fit with the BMW OEM Roof Rack? https://amzn.com/B001N3B3N6
> 
> I'm considering the 1upUSA trays or the Thule BigMouth trays but I'm not sure if either will work on the BMW OEM Roof Rack...


They should. IIRC, the BMW racks are made by Thule. I'd call and confirm with 1UpUSA.

J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

yuppie said:


> Do the 1upUSA roof bike trays fit with the BMW OEM Roof Rack? https://amzn.com/B001N3B3N6
> 
> I'm considering the 1upUSA trays or the Thule BigMouth trays but I'm not sure if either will work on the BMW OEM Roof Rack...


Why wouldn't it? It looks like a regular run of the mill roof rack to me. If it'll fit on my OEM Mercedes rack, which has wider and more aerodynamic cross bars, then it should fit BMW's more traditional "square" crossbars.


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## Branner (May 28, 2015)

Yuppie:

Here's a shot of my 1Up. I think it should fit your rack.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

I definitely reccomend keeping a wrench in the car to check it or to remove it for a car wash or something. If I have the add on outside next to the car it probably takes me no more than 90 seconds to get the bolts and wrench out and install it. very easy


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## drrick (Jan 1, 2005)

*New 1up on Volvo XC60*

I just received my HD black 2-tray rack (+2 add-ons) yesterday. My Volvo XC60 "received" it last night. I am happy to corroborate everything everyone has said about its beautifully machined appearance, ridiculous ease of unpacking and attaching, super-quick bike load and unload, stability on every road so far, the admiring parking lot stares, and the sizable but worth-it wallet dent.

Just for fun, even though I had plenty of room in the back seat, at the supermarket I tilted my bike down to access the hatch. It doesn't lock into place in that position, so it's easy to tip back up.

I'd like to add a couple other observations:

I have just enough clearance to open my hatch even with the two trays in the full upright position! There is precious little information on vehicle-specific measurements for this on the interwebs. I wondered about that, took the leap anyway, since it could always sit in the 45 degree position, and I am delighted. As my tool-designer friends says, "clearance is clearance"! It's easy to operate the tilt mechanism, if a tiny bit awkward reaching under.

The second tray in the full upright position does make it a tiny bit harder to lean over to access items deep in my cargo area, but I'll get used to that in no time.

Overall very psyched. Feeling a little guilty about the cost (not guilty enough to not get black!), but pleased to not have to lug around my old (t)rusty Thule swingaway.

Another 2 thumbs up for 1up!


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

In my house we usually buy 2 new bikes every year. I buy a race bike and my wife will buy a bike or a new trail bike, road, or commuter. I only say this because I felt guilty about spending the money on a 1up. But think about it, it's not like you will ever have to upgrade it. And you can buy parts for it. There is a reason that this thread is so long with so many favorable reviews.


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## bsimmons (Aug 4, 2016)

Krause said:


> How's the alignment of the 2 arms on everyone's? I just got 2 1up rails for my roof rack and 1 seemed perfectly aligned and the other seems off by a bit:
> 
> View attachment 1068930
> 
> ...


Couple things:

1) Can you post a pic of your bike in the rack, please? 
2) How would you compare loading a bike into the rack on the roof vs. my rack here in this video review: 




The Rockymount Switchitter is a bit wobbly in the rear since the track plate allows one to slide and fit any length of base rack. A small design flaw that I can see thus far.

Here is my setup now:








Rear plate wobbles up and down here, since it has a sliding plate to accommodate base rack systems.


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

I have the OEM BMW rack and just received my 1up roof tray. I ordered it with flush mount thinking that I could use the T bolt but also had them send me the standard mounts just in case. The flush mount does not work. I knew that the dimensions for BMW slots and Thules were different but was hoping that the T bolt would be large enough to "catch" the side of the inside channel for me to tighten with. No dice. 

Standard mount of course works fine.


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

My T2 about 6 years old was rear ended two weeks ago and the insurance company paid me for the T2 Pro since I convinced them this was a current equivalent. I used my T2 Pro for 5 days and returned it. The interior arm rubbed and would not close without removing second bike, my bikes REEB Donkadonk 170mm and Remedy rubbed no matter what, there is no way to get two 170mm bikes let alone 190mm and the swing arm for a pro seems weak.

I just returned the rack and ordered a 2" HD black 2 bike Quick from 1up (two fat adapters) and hope I like it as much as the reviews I've read. I'm a bit concerned about no locks but any stock locks are crap anyways and I've seen some pretty solid low cost home cooking. I have a white F150 with chrome tool box and accents, but I was worried the aluminum would look too flat and went with the black. Probably not worth $80, but that was the only out of pocket cost for the upgrade with insurance.


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

I'm getting ready to spring for the 1UP Quik Rack but have a question: my car has a 2" receiver, how are things with that? I think I need an adapter, but anyone using the adapter, is it pretty simple? Thanks.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

thegweed said:


> I'm getting ready to spring for the 1UP Quik Rack but have a question: my car has a 2" receiver, how are things with that? I think I need an adapter, but anyone using the adapter, is it pretty simple? Thanks.


I deliberatly installed a 2" hitch and bought the 2" one up. The 2" carries more weight and I was thinking long-term I might get an eBike. Even if I didn't get an eBike I thought the ability to hold three on one was attractive and I am more of a fan of something that is a little more heavy-duty.

My hitch shipped with an adapter and After testing it in the hitch I wouldn't want to use it, would likely rattle like heck.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

cjsb said:


> I deliberatly installed a 2" hitch and bought the 2" one up. The 2" carries more weight and I was thinking long-term I might get an eBike. Even if I didn't get an eBike I thought the ability to hold three on one was attractive and I am more of a fan of something that is a little more heavy-duty.
> 
> My hitch shipped with an adapter and After testing it in the hitch I wouldn't want to use it, would likely rattle like heck.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


thanks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

thegweed said:


> I'm getting ready to spring for the 1UP Quik Rack but have a question: my car has a 2" receiver, how are things with that? I think I need an adapter, but anyone using the adapter, is it pretty simple? Thanks.


I have the precursor that is essentially the same as the three bike version now but was 4 bikes then. That rack will fit in either a 1.25 or the 2" receiver by adding or removing a bolt on piece that comes with the rack. We use it in a 2" receiver and have probably approaching 20,000 miles on it with up to 4 mountain bikes with zero problems. This is designed to work with either size receiver without modification or the need for another adaptor.

Unless you need 4 bikes, I would get the more modular rack. There are three main advantages to this:


You can use it with a single bike with no empty tray hanging off the back. This also folds up very nice and trim.
The modular construction makes it very easy to install. No piece is very heavy and can even be handled by a child for installation. 
Easier storage because you don't have to store a two bike set up (which also will not fold up as well).


Depending on the car, I'd go for a 2" receiver if at all possible. I think there is less twist because of the wider surface contact area.

On my current car, I installed an Invisihitch which I really like. With that, the hitch mounts up underneath the car and there is a receiver that is removable. No bumper modifications and it looks great. I use mine with my 1UpUSA rack and really, really like it. I'm pretty sold on the concept.

Hope that helps.

J.


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## Itsmejson (Aug 9, 2016)

I have a 2011 Honda Accord Sedan. I am looking to add either the Curt or Draw Tite receiver to use the 1up.

According to etrailers com info - From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper the:

Curt measures: 3-3/4"
Draw Tite measures: 4-3/4"

Would either of these receivers allow the 1up to be properly tilted upwards in the stored position when not carrying a bike?

I would prefer to use the Draw Tite since it is a little more hidden but wouldn't want it to keep the 1up being positioned upwards when not carrying a rack due to the bumper.

Thx


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## madgan (Dec 19, 2015)

Itsmejson said:


> I have a 2011 Honda Accord Sedan. I am looking to add either the Curt or Draw Tite receiver to use the 1up.
> 
> According to etrailers com info - From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper the:
> 
> ...


I can't speak regarding the Drawtite but I installed a Curt on my 2011 Honda Accord Sedan last weekend in my driveway. I'm running it with a 1up 2-bike rack and the rack will tilt vertical with plenty of space and no interference with the bumper or license plate view. Note the the hitch pin hole has zero to do with the rack as it is not used when mounting. The rack can slide in and out of the receiver so you have the ability to tighten it up at the depth you want/need to work with your car.


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## Itsmejson (Aug 9, 2016)

madgan said:


> I can't speak regarding the Drawtite but I installed a Curt on my 2011 Honda Accord Sedan last weekend in my driveway. I'm running it with a 1up 2-bike rack and the rack will tilt vertical with plenty of space and no interference with the bumper or license plate view. Note the the hitch pin hole has zero to do with the rack as it is not used when mounting. The rack can slide in and out of the receiver so you have the ability to tighten it up at the depth you want/need to work with your car.


That's awesome. Appreciate your input. If you find the time would you mind posting some photos from the back of your accord and then a side view with the rack tilted vertically?


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

I'll tell you what...1UP's website/store has got to be the lamest. I've been trying to order a rack for 2 days and it keeps giving me an error, then I look on my credit card online and see pending orders from them but get no confirmation email or anything. 

I went to look at racks today from 2 different bike shops, Saris ones and Yakima ones...if they weren't so lacking in quality, yet more expensive than 1UP, I would just get one of those.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

thegweed said:


> I'll tell you what...1UP's website/store has got to be the lamest. I've been trying to order a rack for 2 days and it keeps giving me an error, then I look on my credit card online and see pending orders from them but get no confirmation email or anything.
> 
> I went to look at racks today from 2 different bike shops, Saris ones and Yakima ones...if they weren't so lacking in quality, yet more expensive than 1UP, I would just get one of those.


I'd have tried the phone by now...


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

thegweed said:


> I'll tell you what...1UP's website/store has got to be the lamest. I've been trying to order a rack for 2 days and it keeps giving me an error, then I look on my credit card online and see pending orders from them but get no confirmation email or anything.
> 
> I went to look at racks today from 2 different bike shops, Saris ones and Yakima ones...if they weren't so lacking in quality, yet more expensive than 1UP, I would just get one of those.


Their site could definitely use an update. Maybe BK-XC can hook them up? lol

Just got my roof rack tray from 1up a couple days ago. This thing is nice. Obviously quality crafted. Haven't mounted it yet but I played with the levers and I'm impressed. I'll post pics when I finally get it in use.


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

CdaleTony said:


> I'd have tried the phone by now...


First thing Monday morning sire, that's sure.


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## GhostOfForumsPast (Feb 16, 2016)

Or just buy a Kuat from Amazon and move on once you receive it in two days (you would already have received it).


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

I had no issue with the site on Wednesday. I called them and they answered all my questions and shipped the next day. It is dated for sure but it was not bad.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

thegweed said:


> I'll tell you what...1UP's website/store has got to be the lamest. I've been trying to order a rack for 2 days and it keeps giving me an error, then I look on my credit card online and see pending orders from them but get no confirmation email or anything.
> 
> I went to look at racks today from 2 different bike shops, Saris ones and Yakima ones...if they weren't so lacking in quality, yet more expensive than 1UP, I would just get one of those.


That's a bummer. I don't recall anything about my ordering experience, which was about 2 years ago.

This product is one of those quality difference makers that I have encountered--it is that good. I take mine off the car unless I am riding the next day, 5 minutes or less to install or remove. The fold up feature is also easy to use, and mounting the bike is ridiculously easy. I have had a number of people approach me in the lot at the trails and say pretty much the same thing "Is that all you have to do to mount the bike". It is also built like brick ___house.

It is worth getting, get the 2". As other have posted above the modular aspect of one rack ata time with the 2" is ideal. If I need to carry more than 3 I can add a roof rack.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

GhostOfForumsPast said:


> Or just buy a Kuat from Amazon and move on once you receive it in two days (you would already have received it).


I don't want a Kuat, thanks though.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

thegweed said:


> I'll tell you what...1UP's website/store has got to be the lamest. I've been trying to order a rack for 2 days and it keeps giving me an error, then I look on my credit card online and see pending orders from them but get no confirmation email or anything.
> 
> I went to look at racks today from 2 different bike shops, Saris ones and Yakima ones...if they weren't so lacking in quality, yet more expensive than 1UP, I would just get one of those.


It's fine with me that they put all their energy and resources into the product and CS support instead of the website. Gravity Dropper and BBG Bashgaurds are the same way (also small companies that make affordable quality products with websites from 1998).

I have the bike rack and also their stationary trainer. Both incredibly high quality products. They both remind me of just how chincey almost everything else you buy these days is.


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

I just got the 1up 2 bike in black delivered yesterday. I think it is a great looking rack. Hehe unfortunately my truck is in the shop from the wreck to get tailgate fixed and my rental does not have a hitch so I can't test it until Friday.


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## fleboz (Apr 22, 2015)

turtle---figures!!

I've had mine for 5 years or so and have been happy with them. My only issue was losing the key, called them and they sent it to me immediately. I did notice they now have a cargo rack that you can attach 2 of the bike sets on. good option for me during hunting season!


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## Itsmejson (Aug 9, 2016)

Turtle353 said:


> I just got the 1up 2 bike in black delivered yesterday. I think it is a great looking rack. Hehe unfortunately my truck is in the shop from the wreck to get tailgate fixed and my rental does not have a hitch so I can't test it until Friday.


Nice! I'm planning on ordering mine in a few days. I have a white car and have been going back and forth between black or silver.

How many days was shipping to your place?


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

Itsmejson said:


> Nice! I'm planning on ordering mine in a few days. I have a white car and have been going back and forth between black or silver.
> 
> How many days was shipping to your place?


It took 3 days to get here. I have a white truck with chrome features and went with black. I was worried the aluminum finish would look off/dull with other chrome. The black looks really good.


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## FireLikeIYA (Mar 15, 2009)

Itsmejson said:


> Nice! I'm planning on ordering mine in a few days. I have a white car and have been going back and forth between black or silver.
> 
> How many days was shipping to your place?


Being that these are made of aluminum, silver won't show scratches and paint chips like black and it's cheaper. Silver is still impressive looking just for the simple fact that you can tell it's all metal.


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## fleboz (Apr 22, 2015)

" silver won't show scratches and paint chips like black " i have silver and it shows the scratches and paint chips just as much as my buddies black. I think the black looks good, but for the price i couldnt justify it. but i'm kinda cheap and proud of that!


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

The rack is sick and looks great on the truck. It is really nice because folded up it is only like 6-8" off the back bumper. I was planning on moving my truck to the furthest spot in the garage, but now we can walk behind it with the rack on it. I could not do this with the T2 classic and definitely not with the T2 pro.

Quick question and I read a lot and searched but could not find the answer. I locked my fat bike on the rack and when I went to release the red lever it was quite difficult to pull up. When it did release it popped and made a pretty good mark on the aluminum arm. Is there a trick to relieve the pressure? Did I tighten then arm too tight on the tire? It didn't feel that tight but I like my bikes to be tight on the rack.


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

I always push down on the arm at the same time I'm pulling up on the red lever to make it release easier.

Great bike rack. One of my best cycling related purchases ever.


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## fleboz (Apr 22, 2015)

"I always push down on the arm at the same time I'm pulling up on the red lever to make it release easier." 
i was just going to give the same advise, pushing in helps relieve the tension. theres not much of a learning curve with these, but thats one of them!


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

^yes thirding that. I put a lot of pressure on the tire when securing the bicycle (also shorten and lock out the suspension to get it really secure).

When removing the bike, I push the tire arm into the tire at the same time as pulling up on the release lever. Easy peasy.


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## Turtle353 (Jun 29, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the advise! I'll make sure that I do that in n the future!


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

The only other tip I have is related to loading and unloading a bike. I have the single bike model. What I do when I load my bike is set one of the arms approximately where it would be when the bike is on the rack and open the other arm wide then load the bike from the end. The first arm works like a bike stand, so I don't have to be as concerned about balancing the bike when I move the other arm into place. I just open one arm wide when I unload. Probably wouldn't work with more than one bike due to handlebars and saddles getting in each other's way, but it's made a very convenient rack even more convenient for me with my single bike.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Turtle353 said:


> Thanks everyone for the advise! I'll make sure that I do that in n the future!


Yes, everyone is right. Imagine locking the arm MORE, but then lift the release lever while doing so and it will easily release. I hold the release lever up parallel to the toothed rail and it is easy to open the arms without having the level grab again.


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

*1up quick rack roof tray on BMW 135i w/ OEM rails*

This rack is legit: 1up quick rack on OEM BMW rails - Album on Imgur

Easy to install, no noise, no play.










Held onto the bike like a boss too.


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

Hi Yuppie:

I was wondering if you could let me know how you got the flush mount to work? The T bolt that they supplied just spun around in the slot channel in my BMW OEM rack. I ended up having to use the regular mount, which works fine and is not noisy.

Yak



yuppie said:


> This rack is legit: 1up quick rack on OEM BMW rails - Album on Imgur
> 
> Easy to install, no noise, no play.
> 
> ...


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

yakswak said:


> Hi Yuppie:
> 
> I was wondering if you could let me know how you got the flush mount to work? The T bolt that they supplied just spun around in the slot channel in my BMW OEM rack. I ended up having to use the regular mount, which works fine and is not noisy.
> 
> Yak


So, there are T-bolts that are silver and T-sockets that are gold. I have the silver T-bolts in the 1up slot and the T-sockets that are gold in the rails T-bar slot.

I just held the gold T-sockets with my finger inside the rails and tightened it. Then when it was snug, I secured it with the allen.

I can take a couple pics in a minute.


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

OK, that makes sense. I actually bought washers that fit in the slot better since there's only a few mm difference between the opening and the T bolt width. Even then, I didn't feel comfortable about the T bolt spinning around and possibly getting loose.



yuppie said:


> So, there are T-bolts that are silver and T-sockets that are gold. I have the silver T-bolts in the 1up slot and the T-sockets that are gold in the rails T-bar slot.
> 
> I just held the gold T-sockets with my finger inside the rails and tightened it. Then when it was snug, I secured it with the allen.
> 
> I can take a couple pics in a minute.


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

yakswak said:


> OK, that makes sense. I actually bought washers that fit in the slot better since there's only a few mm difference between the opening and the T bolt width. Even then, I didn't feel comfortable about the T bolt spinning around and possibly getting loose.


and just so I'm more clear, when I say "T bolt" actually mean "T socket" as you stated in your reply! The gold ones...


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

1up Quick Rack Roof Tray fastening - Album on Imgur

Yeah, the gold ones do spin inside the rail slots. But, I just held onto them until snug.

I suppose some blue loctite couldn't hurt.

Silver Bolts:










Gold Sockets:


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## yakswak (Apr 17, 2004)

Thanks for the pics. Yeah that gold one is just barely catching the wall there.



yuppie said:


> 1up Quick Rack Roof Tray fastening - Album on Imgur
> 
> Yeah, the gold ones do spin inside the rail slots. But, I just held onto them until snug.
> 
> ...


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

Got my trailer hitch installed and tested out my new 1Up Quik Rack yesterday...love it. Have a question though about the instructions:

It says "Position the Quik Rack to desired depth, 4" minimum insertion, but no less that 2". Also on their website it has a diagram that looks like it says "4.375 minimum". Can anyone explain all that?

I made a mark that was 4" from the end that goes into the receiver hitch and inserted it to that point. Is that good?

Thanks.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I have never measured either of my 1up's on any of my cars. I just slide them in until they look ok and then tighten them down.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

Installed as far as it can go is BEST. Push it in as far as it can go. But then.......

Then test your bike/handlebar clearance. Does it still fit without hitting anything?

Remove the bike and fold the rack vertically. Does it clear the rear OK?

The point at which the handlebars clear, and the rack can be folded up vertically with some clearance, and the rack is installed into the receiver as far as possible, is the right spot.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

John said:


> Installed as far as it can go is BEST. Push it in as far as it can go. But then.......
> 
> Then test your bike/handlebar clearance. Does it still fit without hitting anything?
> 
> ...


There is some requirement for the minimum insertion depth into the receiver, IIRC.

J.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

i have a marker on mine for the minimum insertion, looks like 2-2.5". 


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Just got back from bike trip vacation last week, used the new rack for about 1500 miles, interstate, gravel, forest roads, shuttling. Had fatty on there and some skinny bikes.
Performed perfectly!


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

Just used my black single 1Up for the first time today...450 miles round trip and it worked perfectly! Is it possible to be in love with a bike rack? I was going to buy one of those $150 tray racks, then I talked myself into the silver 1Up...but that black looked so much better to me. It's awesome so far...


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

thegweed said:


> Just used my black single 1Up for the first time today...450 miles round trip and it worked perfectly! Is it possible to be in love with a bike rack? I was going to buy one of those $150 tray racks, then I talked myself into the silver 1Up...but that black looked so much better to me. It's awesome so far...


yes, it is possible. it is the hydraulic disc brake or dropper post of bike racks!

Sent with Tapatalk


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## schwangster (Aug 28, 2013)

thegweed said:


> Is it possible to be in love with a bike rack?





cjsb said:


> yes, it is possible. it is the hydraulic disc brake or dropper post of bike racks!


Love is the correct word!


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

Question for my fellow 1UP users . . . I have a Torklift Ecohitch installed on my Subaru, and I've noticed that increasingly its becoming harder for me to adjust out the play with the expander ball. I never _really_ wrench down the ball, but it make it pretty snug - like, any more snug and it would probably be a problem. The hitch (probably) won't slide out, but I do notice that there is some slight play between the receiver and the stinger. For example, I can move the rack up and down ~1/4" with not a lot of muscle. It used to be rock solid in there . . . anyone else experience this?


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## slynk59 (Sep 7, 2016)

Hi 
I currently own 2010 Rav4 and I am hoping someone can help me with a concern.
I am considering purchasing a 2 bike 1UP rack, will I be able to complete tilt it up when not in use with the Rav4 having the spare tire out the back.
Hopefully someone can advise me.
Tnanks


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

slynk59 said:


> Hi
> I currently own 2010 Rav4 and I am hoping someone can help me with a concern.
> I am considering purchasing a 2 bike 1UP rack, will I be able to complete tilt it up when not in use with the Rav4 having the spare tire out the back.
> Hopefully someone can advise me.
> Tnanks


Can't answer that question, and you may have already considered this, but.....

I will say that having previously owned a car with a side-swinging gate with a spare on it (CRV), I found that set up with a spare tire mounted rack (Thule Spare-Me) to be much, much, much, more convenient than my current 1UP rack on my Outback.

With a side swinging gate, you have to put down the rack every time you open the gate (all the way flat, not just back to 45 deg).
When you have bikes on it, even with the rack dropped all the way back, it is going to interfere with the rear gate opening. This is true of any hitch rack and a side-swinging gate.

With a Spare-Me rack, the bikes swing out of the way when you open the rear gate, and you never need to futz with it.... ever. You just leave it on there and it is never in the way.

I did not realize how great this set up was until I sold my old CRV and started use a 1UP with my Outback. If I had your car, I would trade any hitch rack (including the 1UP) for the convenience of a rack on a side-swing rear gate any day.

Just my un-asked for $0.02


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## thorin33 (May 3, 2007)

slynk59 said:


> Hi
> I currently own 2010 Rav4 and I am hoping someone can help me with a concern.
> I am considering purchasing a 2 bike 1UP rack, will I be able to complete tilt it up when not in use with the Rav4 having the spare tire out the back.
> Hopefully someone can advise me.
> Tnanks


We have a 2008 Rav4 with the 1Up rack. If you have the OEM Toyota Hitch you will need a hitch extender as the OEM hitch sits much further back than an aftermarket one.


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## subspd (Jan 24, 2007)

Lost a $2k bike off the back of my old crappy rack today and that did it for me. I am going to buy a good rack. I see everyone seems to love this one over the Yakima/Thule/Saris options. 
Guys can you answer a couple questions...

1. what is the difference between the "heavy duty" and the "super duty" racks? (this will be installed on a 2" receiver and it looks like the double racks are both 2" so what makes one of them "super"?)

2. will a 27.5+ tire fit? (one 29er with 2.4 tires and one 27.5+ with 3" tires will be mounted)

3. How do you lock the rack to the hitch? I am in a city and people would love to walk off with this rack.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

subspd said:


> Lost a $2k bike off the back of my old crappy rack today and that did it for me. I am going to buy a good rack. I see everyone seems to love this one over the Yakima/Thule/Saris options.
> Guys can you answer a couple questions...
> 
> 1. what is the difference between the "heavy duty" and the "super duty" racks? (this will be installed on a 2" receiver and it looks like the double racks are both 2" so what makes one of them "super"?)


Super Duty is 75lb per bike or less. Heavy Duty is 50lb per bike or less.



> 2. will a 27.5+ tire fit? (one 29er with 2.4 tires and one 27.5+ with 3" tires will be mounted)


Yes. Tires up to 3.25". Over that, add a fat bike kit.



> 3. How do you lock the rack to the hitch? I am in a city and people would love to walk off with this rack.


Rack comes with security bolts that require special allen wrench to operate. Special allen wrench is unique to 1UpUSA and is not an industry standard allen security bolt. Typical security bolts have an allen head with a pin that comes up in the middle. The 1UpUSA version of that has a bigger pin that comes up so you have to get a wrench from 1UpUSA.

If that doesn't work for you, some have added a U-lock from hitch to main support bracket of the rack. That means destroying rack to remove it.

But to put a point on it, adding or removing this rack from the car is a <1 minute exercise (for two -3 bikes) plus it folds up. This is especially true if you start with the base unit with one tray (vs two). You can take them off, fold them up and put them in your car. I use mine frequently, and I take it off after I'm done every time because it's so easy and I don't want to leave a rack on my BMW. So I have an Invi****ch so that when the rack is off the car, you can't even see the receiver.

FWIW, I can have the receiver mounted on the car, add the rack and have a bike on it in <90 seconds. I've been using one of these for 10 years so I'm familiar with it but that is not even rushing.

One thing I did was take the 1UpUSA long wrench that has a security connection on either end and cut off a little bit of the end. I glued that into a 3/8" socket and then use a ratchet drive to make it go faster. The shorter wrench also can be spun inside the main section of the rack without having to remove it when it hits the rack supports.

J.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

*1Up Rack Questions*



subspd said:


> 3. How do you lock the rack to the hitch? I am in a city and people would love to walk off with this rack.


I use a Kryptonite U lock to lock the rack to my Jeep. The U lock fits through the loop on the hitch and is long enough to lock around the bar on the rack. I think the newer 1Up racks have a set of holes in front of the cam bolt, through which you can put a locking pin to cover the head of the cam bolt, preventing anyone from loosening the cam. https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

sbermhb said:


> I use a Kryptonite U lock to lock the rack to my Jeep. The U lock fits through the loop on the hitch and is long enough to lock around the bar on the rack. I think the newer 1Up racks have a set of holes in front of the cam bolt, through which you can put a locking pin to cover the head of the cam bolt, preventing anyone from loosening the cam. https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html


Yep. Depending on your level of paranoia, you'd still need to do something with add on kits. A determined thief could get one off with a vice grips. I would think you could find a long shackle pad lock that would go around the support piece for the section before it and be pretty clean.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I have an older 1UP rack that does not have a way to lock the rack to the vehicle. I sometimes worry that someone will steal it. I should look into ways to secure it without marring up the rack, or rusting out whatever I use to secure it.


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## subspd (Jan 24, 2007)

Looks like on the new website they now sell lock sets for the hitch and bikes. 


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

When I'm transporting $8000 worth of bikes I don't skimp on the rack and in my opinion the 1UP USA is clearly the best out there. I've had Thule, Saris, and Yakama and they're not even close. A friend of mine has a Kuat and I've noticed him eyeing my 1UP USA a few times and is asking me questions about it. It takes me literally less than 10 seconds to put my bike on the rack. I watch him put his bike on the Kuat and it takes him minutes and he noticed the difference between the two. I carry a 29er and a 27.5+ with no issues. I also have a fat bike and with the adapter kit I can carry that with 4.5" tires. I only have a 2-bike rack with 1-¼" hitch and with literally thousands of miles on them carrying bikes I would say they can handle just about any bike you can put on it. I use a U-lock to lock the rack to the receiver hitch. Then a cable lock to lock the bike(s) to the rack.


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## Soundwaviator (Oct 11, 2016)

*Need help choosing silver or black!*

Okay all you 1up lovers out there, I need your help....

I've been pulling my hair out for two days trying to decide whether to get the silver or black rack. I plan to get the single bike rack with an add-on for one additional bike.

I have a 2011 Honda CRV in "Alabaster Silver" color. So far, in all 58 pages of this thread, I have not seen ANY pics of this rack on a Honda CRV.

Are there any CRV owners out there who have the 1up rack? If so, would you PLEAAASE post some pics asap?!?

Also, I have not seen many pics of silver cars with a black rack. If anyone has a silver car (not gray) with a black rack, would you please also post some pics of the rack on your car from various angles and with the rack in different positions (without the bike on the rack, preferably)?

Thanks!!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

subspd said:


> Looks like on the new website they now sell lock sets for the hitch and bikes.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i saw that, too and just ordered some. i have never had anything stolen but I was ordering a replacement wrench because one of mine has rounded out and thought how pretty much anyone could order this wrench. the locks then seemed ridiculously cheap. i never leave it parked with bikes on out of site, i am more concerned with the entire rack being gone when I get back to car or if i put it on night before riding.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> *************
> Rack comes with security bolts that require special allen wrench to operate.* Special allen wrench is unique to 1UpUSA and is not an industry standard allen security bolt.* Typical security bolts have an allen head with a pin that comes up in the middle. * The 1UpUSA version of that has a bigger pin that comes up so you have to get a wrench from 1UpUSA.*
> ************
> J.


I am unsure if this is true... My pin measures .188...Bondus specs their security tool hole at .193 +.010/-0.000
I think I'll buy a set just to see if Bondus will work... I can always use them as regular Allen wrenches............


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I don't have a CR-V but I do have a silver Mazda 3 Hatchback and it looks great with my silver bike rack.


Soundwaviator said:


> Okay all you 1up lovers out there, I need your help....
> 
> I've been pulling my hair out for two days trying to decide whether to get the silver or black rack. I plan to get the single bike rack with an add-on for one additional bike.
> 
> ...


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

Once you go black...


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## Soundwaviator (Oct 11, 2016)

stochastic said:


> Need more info:
> 
> What color is your favorite purse?
> 
> ...


LOL, for real? Should I be offended or are you just trying to flirt? Well, I'll take it as a compliment either way I guess! Here's the "needed" info you asked for:

I don't have a "purse". I use backpacks of varying sizes for different purposes.

I don't care much for skirts (especially while riding bikes...ouch), and I don't really like white shirts either...get dirty too easily.

I wear a black utility belt for work, and spending $30 bucks a pop to get my nails done is a waste of money IMO because they already look fantastic au naturale. 

Do I care about quality and style? Hell yes. Do I want my rack and car to still look good together years from now? For 600 bucks, absolutely. Do I give a rip if they match my wardrobe? Well, if I did I'd probably be on a different forum.

Hope that helps


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

Thread Bump. About to order a rack.
Don't have any fat bikes in our stash, but it would make sense to just order a fatbike spacer just because. I'll probably pay just that much in shipping down the road if I decide to order it.

1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

chefwong said:


> 1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.


If they made the standard rack arms wide enough to accommodate fat bike tires, they would be too wide to work well with skinny tires.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I think getting the fat bike adapter (spacer kit) when you order the rack makes a lot of sense if you plan to get a fat bike in the future. I got the spacer kit and it works with my skinny, plus, and road bikes just fine. So why not make all racks fat bike compatible standard? I would guess the main thing is the tooling and assembly. There are other good reason too such as many people who will never own a fat bike and wouldn't want the added expense and weight.


chefwong said:


> Thread Bump. About to order a rack.
> Don't have any fat bikes in our stash, but it would make sense to just order a fatbike spacer just because. I'll probably pay just that much in shipping down the road if I decide to order it.
> 
> 1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

Isn't the shape of the cone/profile where it meets the same ~contact patch~ on the tire - regardless. The primary difference is the plastic space/longer bolt that makes the holder wider - and a longer cone. 

Hence, on 1Ups website, they say if you order the fatbike option "The original hardware will not be sent with the order as it is not necessary in order to transport any other type of bike"


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

chefwong said:


> Isn't the shape of the cone/profile where it meets the same ~contact patch~ on the tire - regardless. The primary difference is the plastic space/longer bolt that makes the holder wider - and a longer cone.
> 
> Hence, on 1Ups website, they say if you order the fatbike option "The original hardware will not be sent with the order as it is not necessary in order to transport any other type of bike"


Yes it is, but it's still not quite as stable as the standard. I have one of each on my 2-bike rack.


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

That's the point of the OP. The cone sits on the tire and makes contact. That is the same profile/contact patch. Well, maybe the fatbike version is slighly larger.

BUT, I quoted 1UP's disclaimer, and they say IF you order the fatbike cone addon, they will replace it and NOT include the standard cone, as the FB addon, when installed, WORKS with all bikes


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

The fat bike cones work for everything. Still, I picked up their plastic wheel adapter thingies that spreads the pressure out a bit. I mainly got it for my carbon rims- to spread out the pressure but use it practically anytime I have one of my road bikes on. I do not use them with the cross bike, the MTB and obviously not the fat bike,


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Oh, one caveat. I have a Wrangler with 35" tires. If I put the fatbike cones on the tray closest to the vehicle, I get slight rub when opening the tailgate- tire bottom rubs on the rack arm. It is not a big deal but it does bug me a bit since I forget at time and open it fast. There are a lot of variables here so unless you're using the TeraFlex carrier with 35" or larger tires, it likely will not rub. This is just a caveat for modified Wrangler owners.


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

Off topic or on, but why the upcharge on black.

The trays are powdercoated.
The rest are anodized.

IMO, there is not that much a price differential in color material for the upcharge...

I actually though the entire assembly was PC, hence the upcharge in black but it turns out, it's just the trays


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

chefwong said:


> Off topic or on, but why the upcharge on black.
> 
> The trays are powdercoated.
> The rest are anodized.
> ...


Capitalism?

Personally I like the black and was willing to pay more for it.


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.

Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

chefwong said:


> Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
> I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.
> 
> Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not


I think you should get the bronze one.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

chefwong said:


> Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not


Why do it need to stand out?


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## chefwong (Feb 29, 2004)

If the tray with no bike is not folded up and folded down, too many id1ot drivers will easily just ride up on the tray.....half are weekend drivers, then theirs the latter just ride your [email protected]@


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

OK. I just took it for granted that everyone will fold their up their rack when not carrying bikes like I always do. Besides, idiot drivers or not I wouldn't want any more additional length sticking out behind my car than the rack already does even folded up.


chefwong said:


> If the tray with no bike is not folded up and folded down, too many id1ot drivers will easily just ride up on the tray.....half are weekend drivers, then theirs the latter just ride your [email protected]@


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

chefwong said:


> Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
> I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.
> 
> Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not


Thanks for making me realize...I'm not OCD after all.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

You are overthinking it. Silver is better. That is all. 


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Agreed.


Scott In MD said:


> You are overthinking it. Silver is better. That is all.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Itsmejson (Aug 9, 2016)

On the 1up website it shows the 1.5" bike rack is rated at 50lbs.

My bike weighs in at 48 lbs. Being so close to the rated weight of the rack do you all think the bike and rack will be fine?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Yup.


Itsmejson said:


> On the 1up website it shows the 1.5" bike rack is rated at 50lbs.
> 
> My bike weighs in at 48 lbs. Being so close to the rated weight of the rack do you all think the bike and rack will be fine?


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

007 said:


> I think you should get the bronze one.


If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun. It doesn't bother me, and I still love the rack. I wonder if that's a common occurrence or if mine is just "special".


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## 5k bike 50cent legs (Oct 10, 2016)

I just ordered the 1up Super Duty after my Kuat was damaged in a fender bender. Can't wait to get this thing on my truck! May paint mine desert camo.


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## ltspd1 (Nov 25, 2007)

Geralt said:


> If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun. It doesn't bother me, and I still love the rack. I wonder if that's a common occurrence or if mine is just "special".


Mine has done this as well, and I agree, no big deal.

It's a bike rack, not a fashion accessory.


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

Geralt said:


> If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun.
> 
> 
> > Yes. Aluminum anodizing, at it's core, is using electricity to attract dies into the surface of the part. Dies that are not UV-stabilized will fade quickly.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

JohnJ80 said:


> Rack comes with security bolts that require special allen wrench to operate. Special allen wrench is unique to 1UpUSA and is not an industry standard allen security bolt. Typical security bolts have an allen head with a pin that comes up in the middle. The 1UpUSA version of that has a bigger pin that comes up so you have to get a wrench from 1UpUSA.
> 
> One thing I did was take the 1UpUSA long wrench that has a security connection on either end and cut off a little bit of the end. I glued that into a 3/8" socket and then use a ratchet drive to make it go faster. The shorter wrench also can be spun inside the main section of the rack without having to remove it when it hits the rack supports.
> 
> J.


I have now confirmed the underlined part is not true. And I'll leave it at that....
I now have a spare non 1-up wrench....


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

CdaleTony said:


> I have now confirmed the underlined part is not true. And I'll leave it at that....
> I now have a spare non 1-up wrench....


Why would you just "leave it at that"? If you have some information that we might need to know then let's hear it.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

thegweed said:


> Why would you just "leave it at that"? If you have some information that we might need to know then let's hear it.


Good question.. I thought people might be unhappy if I refuted the idea that our racks use a 'special non-standard tamper resistant' hex wrench, that I would be informing the hooligans of a security issue.
If not a security issue, than at least the idea the the wrenches are easier to come by then some people think....

I grabbed a set of Bondhus TR hex's and the 3/8" wrench works on all 3 TR bolts on my rack... One of the add-on bolts was a bit tight but now is no problem. I can easily loosen or torque the bolts...
I doubt that my bolts are in spec (apparently with an industry standard) due to wear at the cold headers...But rather are just normal TR bolts....

As far as I could measure the pins, I got .190", and the Bondhus spec is .193"-.203" diameter hole...

Just food for thought....Not to rely solely on a 'special proprietary' bolt..... Because I don't think it is....


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

CdaleTony said:


> Good question.. I thought people might be unhappy if I refuted the idea that our racks use a 'special non-standard tamper resistant' hex wrench, that I would be informing the hooligans of a security issue.
> If not a security issue, than at least the idea the the wrenches are easier to come by then some people think....


Good point.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

How much effort does it take to fold up a 1up super duty with 4 bike trays compared to a 4 tray Thule T2?


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

OldHouseMan said:


> How much effort does it take to fold up a 1up super duty with 4 bike trays compared to a 4 tray Thule T2?


Can't speak for the T2 but I can easily do this with one hand and so can my wife.

J


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

They finally brought their website into the 21st century.


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## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

Finally bit the bullet and bought a 1.25 single 1Up USA rack in black. Installed the Curt hitch receiver with help from my neighbor. Was gonna try to find a deal on a Kuat but like 99.5% of the time, I'm only carrying one bike to the trailhead so having a double rack on the car all the time that would make opening the rear hatch more difficult was a big reason I went with the single 1Up .

The finish on this rack is really nice. I dig the black color (originally went wiht silver becuase it was cheaper, but slept on it and decided the black would look way better with my dark gray car. called 1Up the next day and changed it before it shipped out) and it is just put together really nice. really solid. very minimal wobble with the bike on the rack.

only complaint is its kinda tough to get the spring loaded bar to move far enough to be able to pivot the rack up and down. i prolly just need to get used to working the mechanism and it wont be an issue. but i do wish they had some kind of foot actuated lever like Kuats do.

Inaugural trip to the Apex trailhead went off without a "hitch". Think this was the right choice for me.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Awesome. Congratulations and good luck.


sooner518 said:


> Finally bit the bullet and bought a 1.25 single 1Up USA rack in black. Installed the Curt hitch receiver with help from my neighbor. Was gonna try to find a deal on a Kuat but like 99.5% of the time, I'm only carrying one bike to the trailhead so having a double rack on the car all the time that would make opening the rear hatch more difficult was a big reason I went with the single 1Up .
> 
> The finish on this rack is really nice. I dig the black color (originally went wiht silver becuase it was cheaper, but slept on it and decided the black would look way better with my dark gray car. called 1Up the next day and changed it before it shipped out) and it is just put together really nice. really solid. very minimal wobble with the bike on the rack.
> 
> Inaugural trip to the Apex trailhead went off without a "hitch". Think this was the right choice for me.


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

sooner518 said:


> only complaint is its kinda tough to get the spring loaded bar to move far enough to be able to pivot the rack up and down.


Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Nope. My rack sits nice and snug in my receiver. The inside surface of your receiver might not be perfectly square or flat.


007 said:


> I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.


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## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

Geralt said:


> Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.


good idea. ill give that a try. thanks


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

Anyone been rear ended with the rack folded up yet?

It happened to me last week. Very minor ... had some imprints in my bumper where the tray touches it, no visible damage to the rack itself. Still folds up and down just fine.

The hinge itself tore 2 holes in the other guy's front bumper (that notched part of the rack where it sticks out with the 4 positions for up, slanted, level, and slanted down). I'm a bit concerned about possible force transmission from impact directly into the frame and causing very difficult-to-find damage in the panels or frame.

Last thing I wanna do is let this guy off the hook due to lack of visible damage (other than paint), and then 5 years from now get dinged $2K on resale price because an appraiser finds a minor bend in the panels, undercarriage, whatever, that someone else missed.

Gonna get inspected this week, just not sure if anyone has any similar experiences or advice.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

SchralphMacchio said:


> Anyone been rear ended with the rack folded up yet?
> 
> It happened to me last week. Very minor ... had some imprints in my bumper where the tray touches it, no visible damage to the rack itself. Still folds up and down just fine.
> 
> ...


Every accident is different. The only way to do this is take it to good shop and have them go over it with very carefully.

J.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Geralt said:


> Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.


I tried that...not much luck. So I cobbed together this little setup. Actually works pretty well. The issue isn't really that it sticks, but that it is hard to pull the bar evenly. I also have 2 smaller loops I can attach to the cord for when I run 3 or 4 trays, I just thread them through the final hole in the last rack and attach the handle to hold it there. Honestly, with 2 racks it it only a minor improvement. When you have 4 racks on there, it is invaluable. ( to me ).

Basic idea:


Cut a section of 1" pipe just shorter than the bar
Cut that section of pipe in half length ways. We need something to keep the cord out at the ends of the bar.
Drill two small holes in the ends of the "half-pipe". 
Knot some cord through the pipe and attach to bar. ( zip ties keep it in place. i just used some random paracord i had lying around. you can probably find something better? ) 
Put loose end of cord through something to make a handle. (Again, I had an old yakima attachment nut lying around )

The paracord isn't the best. A bit stretchy. Some thin cable might be ideal? Or high quality cord that doesn't stretch. ( dyneema etc ) I wasn't going to go out and actually buy something...too cheap for that 

Closeup of the connection to the bar from above.








From below:







In operation...


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Clever.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Well, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to order a 1up single rack (I roll to the trail head solo 98% of the time) with a one bike add on in black for the new car. I've looked at all the other options out there and spent countless hours reading and watching reviews. It is a lot of money, but I'm shocked at big name racks that are within $100 of the 1up that have so much plastic in them. In the end, the consensus around here seems to be the build quality and lack of any plastic bits is worth the buy in cost, I hope so.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

HPIguy said:


> Well, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to order a 1up single rack (I roll to the trail head solo 98% of the time) with a one bike add on in black for the new car. I've looked at all the other options out there and spent countless hours reading and watching reviews. It is a lot of money, but I'm shocked at big name racks that are within $100 of the 1up that have so much plastic in them. In the end, the consensus around here seems to be the build quality and lack of any plastic bits is worth the buy in cost, I hope so.


Good choice. Congratulations and enjoy.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

HPIguy said:


> Well, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to order a 1up single rack (I roll to the trail head solo 98% of the time) with a one bike add on in black for the new car. I've looked at all the other options out there and spent countless hours reading and watching reviews. It is a lot of money, but I'm shocked at big name racks that are within $100 of the 1up that have so much plastic in them. In the end, the consensus around here seems to be the build quality and lack of any plastic bits is worth the buy in cost, I hope so.


Looking forward to hearing your thoughts when you get it. I use mine all the time and probably have more than 20,000 miles on it. Great rack.

J.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to post up my thoughts once I get some time with it.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

HPIguy said:


> Well, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to order a 1up single rack (I roll to the trail head solo 98% of the time) with a one bike add on in black for the new car. I've looked at all the other options out there and spent countless hours reading and watching reviews. It is a lot of money, but I'm shocked at big name racks that are within $100 of the 1up that have so much plastic in them. In the end, the consensus around here seems to be the build quality and lack of any plastic bits is worth the buy in cost, I hope so.


It is in top 5 of bike related products in my 20 plus years of mountain biking. Maybe numero uno. I loved my old Yakima roof rack, too, which is numero dos.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

I have had my 1Up for about a month now. It replaced a Raxter which I was happy with -- same basic design re holding bikes by wheels instead frame. 8 years ago it was only rack i was aware of that did so and that was relatively HD. I travel off road with bikes and it did an admirable job of holding on to precious cargo. In recent times it did get a bit challenged when heavy side to side motion would loosen holding arms during highly tech off roading. 
New rack is everything i liked about previous +++. It's more solid, folds up, folds down, and seems like it will handle any off roading with a aplomb. I did buy the superduty.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Can someone here with a 1up rack measure the overall width of the bike tray?? Thanks


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

55 inches.
I love my rack but if you live out of country shipping kills for purchases. I wanted to buy some locks but couldn't choke down the s&h charges. If you are like me then you can buy some trailer hitch locks from your auto parts store. Watch out though because some trailer locks are too short.


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## figurePOOR (Sep 4, 2016)

What is the minimum shackle length for a padlock to be used on the pin holes blocking access to the hitch locking Allen key hole?


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Just placed my order for the single bike rack and hitch lock. 

99% I'm transporting one bike so this is perfect. Plus its low profile enough that it won't interfere with any backup cameras, and won't get in the way when folded up and need access to the rear hatch of the SUV. 

Initially I was going to only get the lower assembly that pivots and then have some custom steel tubing rack made to fit my Thule Sidearm (which I like), but after looking into it I don't think it's worth the trouble...and I won't really save a lot. Plus I'm hoping that with the 1up rack holding both wheels, the bike will sway back and forth less. 

I like their hitch tightening mechanism. If I want to remove the rack, it'll take seconds as opposed to get out wrenches...etc. 

And... I live in Vancouver but have an address down in up state WA. So it's a quick drive down to pick things up and save on shipping!

The only I DON'T like, is the fact you can't choose 2" for the single rack without getting the heavy duty rack. 1up says there's no difference in flex between the two sizes with the regular one bike rack, but I don't like how offset the rack will be with the 1.25 to 2.0 adapter.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

I also just placed an order for a single hitch mount quik rack, the fat tire spacer kit, the standard wheel holder adapter, and a hitch lock. If I start hauling more peoples bikes around with me, then I'll order an add on single rack. But as is, I like the clean look of the single rack. Besides, I can fit one bike inside the Subie with the seats folded down also.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

I received my rack today, and I'm extremely impressed with the quality of it. Hands down one of the nicest pieces of cycling accessory I've ever purchased. I cannot wait to use it. Thanks to all of you for the very informative thread!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Awesome!! Congrats!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bkpr (May 19, 2008)

racerwad said:


> If you cut yourself, how isn't that your fault, when hundreds of other users haven't?


I sliced the tip of my thumb off when installing the rack last night. The culprit was the three machined holes on the hitch mount that surround the first hex-key hole (on a 2" hitch mount) As I inserted the text key and turned the handle, my thumb brushed past one of the other holes and sliced the tip off. The cut was so clean that I didn't even notice until after I stood back with the wife admiring the rack. That's when I saw blood on it :/

I've emailed 1UP to let them know the holes just need finishing like the hex-bolt hole. Their response was "Thanks for the feedback, I'll be sure to pass this along."

The rack itself is legit AF.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

bkpr said:


> I sliced the tip of my thumb off when installing the rack last night. The culprit was the three machined holes on the hitch mount that surround the first hex-key hole (on a 2" hitch mount) As I inserted the text key and turned the handle, my thumb brushed past one of the other holes and sliced the tip off. The cut was so clean that I didn't even notice until after I stood back with the wife admiring the rack. That's when I saw blood on it :/
> 
> I've emailed 1UP to let them know the holes just need finishing like the hex-bolt hole. Their response was "Thanks for the feedback, I'll be sure to pass this along."
> 
> ...


Wow! That's a bummer. I find it hard to make complete revolutions with the wrench, it either contacts the rack or I scrape my knuckles on this sharp area that got your thumb. So I just do short maybe quarter turns or less. It makes it take a little longer as you have to fiddle with getting the wrench on and off more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Wow, that's rough. The holes should indeed be finished and not that sharp. I installed my new base yesterday but evidently did not get my thumb that close to the holes. I can see how it could. I'll probably file them down a bit now, with a very fine file.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

A dremel and a conical bit is the way to go, but I agree, it should have been done before you received it. 

Got my hitch installed on Saturday, and got to use my new rack for the first time yesterday. Super easy to use, very stable, and very low profile when not in use. I love this thing!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Looks good. I'll use the Dremel and lightly smoothen those hole-edges down. I also need to switch one rack to the fat bike adapters tomorrow.


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## johnniewalker (Mar 22, 2016)

HPIguy said:


> A dremel and a conical bit is the way to go, but I agree, it should have been done before you received it.
> 
> Got my hitch installed on Saturday, and got to use my new rack for the first time yesterday. Super easy to use, very stable, and very low profile when not in use. I love this thing!


Can you give me some details about your hitch and how much it cost to be installed on your Subaru?


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Picked mine up today. Haven't had a chance to do much other than open the box and see how the build quality looks pretty damn awesome. I was hoping for some riding today but will have to wait until next weekend. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I installed mine solo on my Subaru- took 45 mins once I read the instructions. I sold the vehicle but it was not hard. A shop should charge you maybe $50 (what they charged my buddy) but a friend and you can do it yourself if you have time. I put one on my Jeep too but that was silly easy...six or eight bolts once you line up the small hitch.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

I have the Subaru factory hitch, which I prefer for my own _personal _reasons. I don't care for the hidden hitch setup as I don't feel like crawling around on the ground to find the pin location when I want to use my cargo rack. The factory hitch only has the receiver hanging down and not the whole works. Looks better IMO, and the hitch will hit before bodywork or muffler does. It also works with the cars crumple zones properly, that may or may not matter to you. It is however the most costly option at $350, and that's not installed. I negotiated for mine in the purchase of the car when I bought it, knowing full well what rack I was buying. Again, this is all just my opinion and nothing more, YMMV.


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## johnniewalker (Mar 22, 2016)

HPIguy said:


> I have the Subaru factory hitch, which I prefer for my own _personal _reasons. I don't care for the hidden hitch setup as I don't feel like crawling around on the ground to find the pin location when I want to use my cargo rack. The factory hitch only has the receiver hanging down and not the whole works. Looks better IMO, and the hitch will hit before bodywork or muffler does. It also works with the cars crumple zones properly, that may or may not matter to you. It is however the most costly option at $350, and that's not installed. I negotiated for mine in the purchase of the car when I bought it, knowing full well what rack I was buying. Again, this is all just my opinion and nothing more, YMMV.


Thanks for the info. Is it the 2 inch receiver?


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Nope, not offered in the factory hitch as it's not rated for the towing capacity of a 2" receiver. Not needed anyway IMO. Buy the quik rack and an add on tray. My setup is rock solid.


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## Briareos (Aug 2, 2011)

Flyer said:


> Looks good. I'll use the Dremel and lightly smoothen those hole
> 
> Rather than a dremel, if you have a countersink drill bit, or a step drill bit, you can rotated it by hand in each of the small holes to cleanly remove the sharp edge. I do this all the time when drilling aluminum, it works great, and is easy.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

^^Yep, that would work great also.


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

johnniewalker said:


> Can you give me some details about your hitch and how much it cost to be installed on your Subaru?


I just got a 17 Scooby Outback. I spent a lot of time checking into hitches. I have a 15 F150 and a Thule hitch rack and wanted to make sure I could use that as well as other systems....I dont think you can find a better hitch for subby's than TORKLIFT Ecohitch. Tough as nails, 2" available (same cost as 1 1/2), almost hidden, no drilling and therefore no added concern or paint steps for corrosion. Nice hitch. I'm glad I went that route.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

johnniewalker said:


> Can you give me some details about your hitch and how much it cost to be installed on your Subaru?


These are seriously worth looking at.

Subaru Trailer Hitches

The hitch itself is concealed up behind the bumper and/or under the car. The receiver mates with the this around the bumper so that the hitch is invisible when you are not using the receiver. I bought one of these for my BMW 3 series wagon and it's great - no unsightly receiver permanently out there nor that can catch on a steep driveway entrance.

J.


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## pardenme (Dec 8, 2007)

I almost never post on forums but I felt compelled as I stumbled across this thread while researching hitch mounted racks. I have a 1Up, but my new car has a smaller hitch so I'm shopping for a new rack. Yes, the 1Up is well-made, in the USA, and very easy to use. However, I remain skeptical of it since mine fell off of my car on the highway while I was going 70 mph. Luckily there were no bikes on it, and no one was hurt, but I did end up paying for damage to two cars that it hit as it slid around the highway. It was terrifying looking in my rear view mirror, wondering if pieces were going to hit someones windshield or if cars were going to swerve and run into each other trying to avoid it. 

I will say that I did NOT have the velcro strap on it. I thought velcro, really, what good is that going to do? I checked the bolt about every other time I use it, as it should be secure enough that I don't have to check it every single time and pull over on trips to check it, etc. Apparently that velcro strap is crucial. 

I sent photos to 1Up. They sent me a new rack, no charge, because in their words, "We don't want bad press." That was over a year ago. I haven't said anything about it publicly until now. It doesn't look like their new ones have a pin through the hitch mount. I could be wrong. 

I do still use their rack because I couldn't afford to spend $400-$600 on a new 2-bike rack. I've become more comfortable with it now that I've had the velcro strap on and it hasn't flown off the car. You bet I was staring in the rear view mirror and pulling over to check the rack for a good five months when I got the new one. But as I'm shopping for a new rack I am leaning toward one with a pin through the hitch, not velcro. 

I also find the handle extremely hard to get to and pull with bikes loaded on the rack. The video makes it look so easy. I don't find it easy at all. Maybe I have short arms, but at 5'10" I don't think so. I'm now leaning toward something like the Kuat that has a more accessible foot pedal thing to lower the rack.


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## pardenme (Dec 8, 2007)

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## rijndael (Sep 19, 2016)

pardenme said:


> I do still use their rack because I couldn't afford to spend $400-$600 on a new 2-bike rack.
> 
> ...
> 
> I'm now leaning toward something like the Kuat that has a more accessible foot pedal thing to lower the rack.


Where in VA are you located? I'd entertain a trade on my Rocky Mountain Split Rail 2


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

The new Thule and Kuat release levers will certainly be easier to use. I usually carry one or two bike so not a big deal to me but an easier design would be nice for many. 

A lockable or regular pin-thru-hole would be a good backup but mine has never even loosened up so I'm fine. However, I do need to finally get to creating my own system maybe with a carabiner and a coated cable or some industrial velcro. Prob is I swap the rack between two vehicles at times so an easy-off carabiner system would be preferable, I guess.


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

pardenme said:


> I almost never post on forums but I felt compelled as I stumbled across this thread while researching hitch mounted racks. I have a 1Up, but my new car has a smaller hitch so I'm shopping for a new rack. Yes, the 1Up is well-made, in the USA, and very easy to use. However, I remain skeptical of it since mine fell off of my car on the highway while I was going 70 mph.


You forgot to tighten it? And how is your car has a small hitch, and you show a 2" one?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I'm sorry to hear that yours fell off but mine has never fallen off or even loosened up. As for ease of use, sure, the Kuat may be easier to tilt back but the 1UP is much easier to load and unload bikes. I know this because one of my buddies has a Kuat. As you know it takes us literally seconds to load and unload a bike with the 1UP. I watch him load and unload his bike with his Kuat rack and it's much more involved. He noticed the ease of use with the 1UP and was checking it out quite a bit and asked some questions. Again, I think your situation is an exception and definitely not the norm. Also, 1UP did you right by sending you a free new replacement. Good luck with your next rack.


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

Flyer said:


> The new Thule and Kuat release levers will certainly be easier to use. I usually carry one or two bike so not a big deal to me but an easier design would be nice for many.
> 
> A lockable or regular pin-thru-hole would be a good backup but mine has never even loosened up so I'm fine. However, I do need to finally get to creating my own system maybe with a carabiner and a coated cable or some industrial velcro. Prob is I swap the rack between two vehicles at times so an easy-off carabiner system would be preferable, I guess.


Less than $10 in parts to do this.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Since I switched to a new 2"-only base, PM me if anyone wants to buy a 2" (but convertible to 1.25 with an allen wrench) base. It is the style that does not have the lockable feature welded on but works perfectly. It is the base plus side plates.

Have not posted anything for sale in years so PLEASE advise if I need to delete this. I posted in Classified but pics not showing up. Denver, Colorado. No rust but some rust stains were transferred from my hitch. Works perfectly. Will fit 1.25" or 2" hitches. WITH the side plates, this is $105 + shipping at 1UPUSA. $60 shipped.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I'll set up two of these (prob get the wire rope from Homes Depot) in diff lengths since the Jeep uses the extension.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I think posting a picture would help. Not just with the description but the overall condition of the rack you're selling. Oh, and your location is helpful, too.


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## grizzler (Mar 30, 2009)

Anybody have a 15 degree plate they'd like to sell me? Some dingus backed into my rack and cracked the plate. Didn't leave a note.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Take comfort in the fact that your rack likely did a lot more damage to their car.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I finally got a chance to use the rack today: first ride of 2017!! Installing is a breeze and only took a little while because I needed to see far in I could install the tack in my hitch without the handlebars banging into my rear window. I ended up pretty much bottoming the rack out into the hitch. I tightened her up and installed the Velcro. I read the other post about how the rack went flying down the highway. I'll keep an eye on mine and make sure the strap is tight. Even then, the rack would have to work itself all the way out the hitch. If anything, I find the lever mechanism to open the arms up a little flimsy. They work fine but I suppose any other system would be bulkier and add to the overall cost. For me, the rack is perfect since I only carry one bike and I like how there are no cheap molded plastic parts (like my old Thule sidearm system). Plus made in the US is great, I like that (even though I'm in Canada but I figure we're all in the same boat).


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Well ****... the pic is sideways...


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

This is my velcro replacement: chain goes around hitch and then through master lock.


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## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

This is my easy access handle. It really is very nice rack but it could use a little updating.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Oh yeah I can see the issue if you more than one bike on there. 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

pardenme said:


> I almost never post on forums but I felt compelled as I stumbled across this thread while researching hitch mounted racks. I have a 1Up, but my new car has a smaller hitch so I'm shopping for a new rack. Yes, the 1Up is well-made, in the USA, and very easy to use. However, I remain skeptical of it since mine fell off of my car on the highway while I was going 70 mph. Luckily there were no bikes on it, and no one was hurt, but I did end up paying for damage to two cars that it hit as it slid around the highway. It was terrifying looking in my rear view mirror, wondering if pieces were going to hit someones windshield or if cars were going to swerve and run into each other trying to avoid it.
> 
> I will say that I did NOT have the velcro strap on it. I thought velcro, really, what good is that going to do? I checked the bolt about every other time I use it, as it should be secure enough that I don't have to check it every single time and pull over on trips to check it, etc. Apparently that velcro strap is crucial.
> 
> ...


They were nice enough to send you a new rack, even though you didn't have the strap installed....


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Shark said:


> They were nice enough to send you a new rack, even though you didn't have the strap installed....


I still don't see how a rack can come loose.

J.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I've had my 2 rail setup for 4 years now been great no complaints. I occasionally lube the pivots for the holder arms or whatever they are called, and the threads for the little knurled nut that holds the locking bar in place. It can get real loud like honking brakes when it's been dry for awhile, one time after loading my bike I had some people laughing at me cause the darn thing was so loud. I went home and hosed it off and noise went away


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## Axe (Jan 12, 2004)

JohnJ80 said:


> I still don't see how a rack can come loose.
> 
> J.


You just forget to tighten it. That is the only way I can see it happening.

In some sense it can be considered a design flaw - as it is not immediately obvious from glancing at it when it is not tightened. That is why having a strap is useful. You can see it is on.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Well I do remember reading on here probably in the huge thread about a guy with a defective one that kept coming loose and another guy that had his come loose after driving at higher speeds on a very bumpy gravel road for a long time. I just have mine chained to the hitch because I'm paranoid.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I've never used the strap, and I know a guy who also never uses one and he leaves his rack installed most of the time (I remove mine when not in use). The trouble we both have is that we have a "stealth" hitch install, such that the hitch loops are not (very) accessible. It would be a huge PITA every time the hitch is installed to get the velcro on there. I do want to figure something out though . . .

Its a 2016 Subaru STI with a Torklift ecohitch. The receiver is behind a knockout panel in the bumper.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

JohnJ80 said:


> I still don't see how a rack can come loose.
> 
> J.


I'm not sure either. Mine says on the Jeep almost all year, never loosened up on its own. I wonder if the people that have loosening issues don't give it a lift as they are tightening initially.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

JohnJ80 said:


> I still don't see how a rack can come loose.
> 
> J.


I could see it coming loose from user error, e.g., not tight enough to begin with, not checking it periodically, or not using the strap. When I drive to visit family in Blacksburg, about 5 hours from me with a stop, I will check it when I stop. Sometimes I get a very tiny amount of movement when I tighten but most of the time nothing.

This is the second time on MTBR that I have seen a post where a 1UPRack is claimed to have fallen off. The first post was an obvious fake as the guy claimed his bikes were on it at the time and his pictures were staged (nothing was damaged, just everything there neatly on the shoulder).

99.9% of 1Up owners may be doing something right?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Yup, The first claim was definitely fake. Many have called him out on it, myself included, and he never responded. I've done tests with mine and it never moved after driving hundreds of miles with 2 bikes on. What I do is once the rack is in the receiver and tightened up I wrap the exposed shaft with duct tape leaving no gap between the tape and the end of the receiver. This way if I see a gap between them then I know it has shifted. After thousands of miles in over years it hasn't moved an inch. So when I put the rack back on the hitch I use the tape as a guide to know what to stop inserting.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

chefwong said:


> Hence, on 1Ups website, they say if you order the fatbike option "The original hardware will not be sent with the order as it is not necessary in order to transport any other type of bike"


This wasn't true for me. I ordered the HD rack, plus two extra trays and four fatbike adapters. The main rack and extension pieces came set up with the "normal/ standard" size cones, etc, and I had to disassemble and install myself. I was kinda ticked at first, thinking they should've done that at the factory, but it was a good exercise in taking it apart to learn more about how the rack works/ is assembled, etc.

My rack also came with no instructions whatsoever. I didn't know what the silly velcro strap was for until reading through some forums.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

canker said:


> Well I do remember reading on here probably in the huge thread about a guy with a defective one that kept coming loose and another guy that had his come loose after driving at higher speeds on a very bumpy gravel road for a long time. I just have mine chained to the hitch because I'm paranoid.


That's a great solution both for security/ theft (we've been having lots of racks getting stolen off of cars in Colorado lately [wtf?]) as well as peace of mind (the velcro strap solution is just stupid).


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> Yup, The first claim was definitely fake. Many have called him out on it, myself included, and he never responded. I've done tests with mine and it never moved after driving hundreds of miles with 2 bikes on. What I do is once the rack is in the receiver and tightened up I wrap the exposed shaft with duct tape leaving no gap between the tape and the end of the receiver. This way if I see a gap between them then I know it has shifted. After thousands of miles in over years it hasn't moved an inch. So when I put the rack back on the hitch I use the tape as a guide to know what to stop inserting.


Your duct tape approach is a clever test. I have mine marked with a sharpie at minimum insertion point. I may try a variation of your test, either marker or something firm like a bungy that may be easier to remove than duct tape.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

frank daleview said:


> View attachment 1117444
> 
> 
> This is my easy access handle. It really is very nice rack but it could use a little updating.


This. This is awesome. I got my rack about a month ago and have four trays on it much of the time. I love everything about it except I think the velcro solution and the release lever are significant weaknesses in design (both that could probably be easily remedied by the company with a little time and engineering). With four trays, the thing is nearly impossible to operate (raise/ lower) with one person (and forget about lowering it with bikes on it).

I've been thinking about doing something like this, but using shifter or brake cable and housing or something like that. If I ever get around to the project, I'll post here.

How well does this work for you? I haven't had time to search all 64 pages of this forum- are there other solutions like this?

Thanks!


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Just ordered my add on rack for when friends want to tag along, or I want to take the DJ bike with me. Just FYI, it appears their shipping rates have come down some.


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## 5k bike 50cent legs (Oct 10, 2016)

HPIguy said:


> Just ordered my add on rack for when friends want to tag along, or I want to take the DJ bike with me. Just FYI, it appears their shipping rates have come down some.


Just did exactly the same. There's always that 3rd guy! $9 shipping is fantastic.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Shark said:


> I'm not sure either. Mine says on the Jeep almost all year, never loosened up on its own. I wonder if the people that have loosening issues don't give it a lift as they are tightening initially.


I just pulled my rack off to install a 2nd fatbike spacer. I found that the 1.25" to 2" spacer was slightly loose and took half a turn to tighten back down. That probably didn't help in my case.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

*Rack security*

Here's what I use to secure the rack. It serves 2 purposes: keeps from getting it stolen and from sliding out of the hitch. Notice on the shaft going in to the receiver hitch there's a piece of duct tape on it? I use it for 2 reason:It tells me when to stop inserting when I'm putting it on and I use it to see if the rack has slipped out of its original position. So far I haven't noticed any movement from all the times I've installed, uninstalled, and carried bikes for the last 3+ years I've had the rack and many hundreds of miles of travel with bikes in the rack.


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## [email protected] (Feb 5, 2017)

I know it is 2.5 years later, but i found this thread and am having the same issue. The ball isn't fully retracting and it's a [email protected]$h to get off. Anyone have this problem and found a remedy? I can tell that the ball is past the parallel line of the edge where it sticks out and when i insert it it starts to stick once the ball enters. Anyway, hope someone can help. Thanks.


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> I know it is 2.5 years later, but i found this thread and am having the same issue. The ball isn't fully retracting and it's a [email protected]$h to get off. Anyone have this problem and found a remedy? I can tell that the ball is past the parallel line of the edge where it sticks out and when i insert it it starts to stick once the ball enters. Anyway, hope someone can help. Thanks.


I'm trying to understand your situation. Are you saying the ball will not return/drop back into the rack when you turn the key counter clockwise to release it? Thus you cannot get the rack out of the receiver? If this is your case, this happen to me several times. The rack seems to be welded into the receiver and will not come out.

(Sidebar: Which is why I find it hard to believe the rack came out of the receiver when driving for some folks, anyways...)

I have the two bike rack. What I have had to do is grab onto the rack and rock that sucker up and down with force. Rocking it to the point the SUV rear tires are about to come off the ground and it is very tiring! Sometimes it takes a few tries and it snaps and I can pull it out. That has been a pain in the neck! Here is what I did and it has worked so far.

I was going to pick up a wood shim from Lowes or Home Depot and put that into the receiver and then put the rack in.

Why? Well, the ball is coming too far out and when it does, it won't retract. I even sprayed some silicon inside the rack and greased the ball, but nothing it still gets stuck when the ball comes all the way out. I tried this when the rack is out of the truck. However, I never went to Lowes but found a piece of stiff cardboard instead and cut it to fit the receiver. I put the cardboard into the receiver, only about 3 inches and it sticks out about 3 inches.

Then I put the rack into the receiver. Insert the key and turn clockwise to tighten as tight as possible and it is solid as usual! I can pull on it up and down and it is solid. Took the key and turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up. It worked, the ball dropped and the rack came out! The cardboard prevents the ball from coming all the way out to the point of no retraction.

I called 1UP USA and they told me some of the newer aftermarket receivers have too much play in them. They said all it takes is like a quarter inch of play. This is my case, I have an aftermarket receiver and it has a little less than a quarter inch of play when the rack is in. Well the cardboard or a wood shim stops that because it takes away that play and the ball cannot go that far; yet, it goes far enough and tight enough that you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Not to mention, it comes out so easy!

I did this cardboard trick and went on a 200mi road trip and checked the rack periodically and it was solid and tight! Let me be clear, 1UP did not tell me to insert cardboard or a shim, I came up with that after greasing the ball didn't work to drop it. It is at your own risk, but I don't think there is a risk because that sucker is in there tight! But comes out so simple.

Sorry this is so long, but I hope it helps you out.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

So this is a good point, and related to hitches. I bought an aftermarket hitch for my Wrangler. It sucked. The receiver hole was too big and the fit was sloppy too (where it bolts on to the frame rails. I would have had to use thick washers to make it fit without bending the metal. I bought a takeoff hitch from a guy who bought a bumper with an integrated hitch. It was perfect. So if possible, get an OEM hitch made to certain specific specs by one of the major hitch makers. I think Hidden Hitch is pretty decent but Reese gets worse reviews.


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## [email protected] (Feb 5, 2017)

Rev. 14 said:


> I'm trying to understand your situation. Are you saying the ball will not return/drop back into the rack when you turn the key counter clockwise to release it? Thus you cannot get the rack out of the receiver? If this is your case, this happen to me several times. The rack seems to be welded into the receiver and will not come out.
> 
> (Sidebar: Which is why I find it hard to believe the rack came out of the receiver when driving for some folks, anyways...)
> 
> ...


Yes, this is exactly what happened. I have to shake the hell out of my car and wiggle and shake to get it out. Tiring and hurts my back. Plus i'm afraid it will just come flying out and with the 4 rack that wouldn't be pretty. I appreciate your ingenuity, but I'm always nervous enough that the thing is going to work it's way out, i don't think i could handle the added stress of an additional piece wedged in the receiver. Hopefully 1up will replace it or repair it. Someone else said that because i tightened i so much there is a brass wedge that pushes the ball out that can get a notch in it, therefore not allowing it to slide out and retract. He pulled the ball bearing out and filed the brass wedge which solved it. Though i would thing that once the ball bearing is pulled out it could pop out more easily in the future? I'll keep you posted to see if 1up has a solution. I really do love the rack, but for the amount we paid, it should work. it's not like it was operator error. I mean, should i not tighten the ballbearing that tight? seems counterintuitive to securing the rack to me. Thanks for your reply!


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## Rev. 14 (Jan 22, 2012)

I was in this situation before when I first bought the rack. I paid a premium as well as I purchased the black two bike rack. I think it was like $650 or something. Anyway, same thing, I could not get it out. I had to take my SUV to Toyota and the shop guys used something to pry it out. 

I sent it back to 1UP and they sent me another one, they didn't charge me shipping or anything, great CS. Well as I took it out one day the ball fell out. I called 1UP again and they said put the ball back in then take a hammer and hammer the metal edges. Problem solved. 

As far as filing the rod that pushes the ball out because it develops a notch, I think that is BS. When I called 1UP, they never said anything about that. They did tell me to turn the allen tool clockwise as tight as can be tightened, they said you want that ball to push against the receiver tight so the rack will not come out. So, if they want you to do that it but was counterintuitive because the rod develops a notch then they have a flawed product. So I think that is nonsense. If the ball comes out, just put it back in and hammer the sides of the rack that hold the ball in. The ball has never fallen out of mine again after 1Up told me to do that. 

You don't have to hammer it crazy hard either, just a couple medium taps on each side and you're done.

You're problem may be your receiver, it maybe too loose and it doesn't take much like I said, just quarter inch will do it. Try the cardboard or a metal wedge. What you are trying to do is take that play out of the receiver so the rack comes out when you want it to. I'm telling you it works and it will not fall out of the vehicle going down the road. 

But call 1UP and tell them what you have happening. Tell them suggestions made on this forum. I'd be interested in their response. I know they will point to your receiver hitch. By the way, is your receiver hitch after market or OEM? 

Yes, it does hurt the back to move that sucker up and down to "pop" that thing out. That is coming from a former bodybuilder who is about 220lbs and carries quite a bit of muscle. I find it tiring and a pain in the neck!


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## [email protected] (Feb 5, 2017)

I pulled the pin out and it did have a small notch where the ball pressed against it, but like you said, I imagine that is common. The part that was surprising was that the pin was cracked and the end.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Check out what else a 1up can carry!


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

^^lmao!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

HPIguy said:


> As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.


That's good thinking- and I'll probably put some clear protective tape on the underside of that aluminum bar for prudence's sake (and it will also serve as a nice indicator to check it periodically), however, it's not tight at all. It looks taught in the pictures, but there's enough slack that I can remove it by hand without sliding the rack in. You'll notice there's no kinking in the cable around the square.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

HPIguy said:


> As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.


Could happen but probably not in your lifetime.

J.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

HPIguy said:


> Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.


You're worried about the rack failing because of the cable cutting into the aluminum of the rack or for just cosmetic reasons?

J.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

Just wear and tear in general. It will dig into the rack over time, no different than cable housings digging into your frame if you don't protect it. I work hard for my stuff, as I'm sure most do. For that reason, I like to take care of my things. And, there's no reason not to.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

HPIguy said:


> Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.


Also a great idea. I'll do that on the next iteration. I starting going through the pages of this thread when I was thinking about the idea, but it took less time to get to Home Depot, get the parts and install than the hours and hours it would take to pour through these pages.

Is there anyone who has put together an extension handle other than the guy on the last page with the wood handle? That's going to be my next improvement to tackle at some point.


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

None of the credit goes to me, it's all in this thread. Nice work on the cable either way, need to fab up one myself at some point.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

slcpunk said:


> I tried that...not much luck. So I cobbed together this little setup. Actually works pretty well. The issue isn't really that it sticks, but that it is hard to pull the bar evenly. I also have 2 smaller loops I can attach to the cord for when I run 3 or 4 trays, I just thread them through the final hole in the last rack and attach the handle to hold it there. Honestly, with 2 racks it it only a minor improvement. When you have 4 racks on there, it is invaluable. ( to me ).
> 
> Basic idea:
> 
> ...


Stoked on this solution. I'm planning on doing something with brake cables/ housing (was thinking of using something like the old Odyssey Gyro brake adapters that go from one cable to two), but haven't figured it all out yet. Any changes/ improvements in your design? What works well, what doesn't? Thanks!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I would recommend grabbing some old brake or shifter cable housing and thread the cable you're using in it to use the housing to protect the cable from cutting up the aluminum rack.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

alshead said:


> Stoked on this solution. I'm planning on doing something with brake cables/ housing (was thinking of using something like the old Odyssey Gyro brake adapters that go from one cable to two), but haven't figured it all out yet. Any changes/ improvements in your design? What works well, what doesn't? Thanks!


It worked ok, I was happy with it. I put it together quickly with the things I had on hand, vs. engineering something clever. One of my requirements was that it was easy to change when I added extra racks. ( I usually keep 2 on and then add numbers 3/4 as required ).

With only 2, you hardly need it anyway.

But I did it in the fall ... and don't use the rack in the winter much. It's ski season after all  I guess the long term review won't be in till the end of next summer.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Thanks! Yeah- I've been thinking on this for months already and it's not likely going to happen for a good while. I also typically keep 2 on, then add 3 & 4, so have been thinking of possibly using cable couplers (like used on bikes with S&S couplers) to be able to have it adapt between the sizes. The problem is, my ideas far outpace my skills/ ability/ time for implementation.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So I'm in a bit of a predicament. Trading in my truck Tuesday and need to remove the rack, but it's stuck. Really stuck. I believe the ball is not retracting into the tongue of the rack. The fastening bolt is removed, I removed the red cap from the channel in the rear of rack. I've tapped the brass wedge bolt backwards so the ball has room to retract but the ball just won't move. I've sledgehammered this thing every which way possible but nothing is getting that ball to drop. Any suggestions?


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

That hitch looks pretty rusty, are you sure the ball is not retracting vs rust from the hitch holding it in?
How long has it been in there without being taken off?

I'd give it a good soaking of Kroil, PB blaster, or liquid wrench everywhere you can spray it in, and let it sit a day, then try again.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Shark said:


> That hitch looks pretty rusty, are you sure the ball is not retracting vs rust from the hitch holding it in?
> How long has it been in there without being taken off?
> 
> I'd give it a good soaking of Kroil, PB blaster, or liquid wrench everywhere you can spray it in, and let it sit a day, then try again.


I can't be sure, but I do agree I think the rust is a major factor. Guess I'm going to try some rust removal options now.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Kroil... Pain to find but works best.


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## vick (Apr 11, 2006)

Wow, just got a 1+1 and got a 1-1/4 hitch receiver installed today. Ever get a new frame and just stare at the welds, mesmerized by the workmanship? This rack is like that. Exceptional build quality all the way around, it's simply beautiful in an industrial arts kind of way and feels bulletproof. Plugged it into my hitch and played with loading my bike but no road experience with it yet, I'll be shocked if it has any shortcomings, it simply feels that well made. Nice packaging and instructions too. Kudos to 1Up for an exceptional product!

*No financial interest in the company, just a very satisfied customer thus far


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## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Anyone here have a Mazda CX-5 and use a 1UP? Any issue blowing hot exhaust on the carbon wheels?


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## samwe (Jul 27, 2015)

This may be an odd question, but here it goes.
I want to buy some racks to mount to my existing roof rack. Shipping to my state is at least $60. 
I got an idea I could have them delivered to where I am staying on an upcoming vacation.
1up tells me the box is 55"x6"x3". 64" total and the airline limit is 62".

Has anyone ordered one of these and could tell me if there is any chance I could cut down the packaging?

Thanks!


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## Antikid (May 6, 2009)

frank daleview said:


> This is my easy access handle. It really is very nice rack but it could use a little updating.


that is GENIUS!!!! seriously.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

New car! (2016 Fiesta ST)


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## veryavgwhtguy (Jul 31, 2008)

Thoughts on how I mounted mine?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

veryavgwhtguy said:


> Thoughts on how I mounted mine?
> View attachment 1126291


This is asking for trouble. weight of bike + bouncing on the road = the whole assembly twisting right off at the bolts unless you get some serious support in there to prevent that. and I don't see that happening.


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## veryavgwhtguy (Jul 31, 2008)

Hmmm. This is alarming. I can tell by the amount of green chiclets under your name that you must have a lot of experience in these matters. Any advice on how to reinforce the rack so it doesn't twist off the bolts? Along which axis will the twisting happen?



Harold said:


> This is asking for trouble. weight of bike + bouncing on the road = the whole assembly twisting right off at the bolts unless you get some serious support in there to prevent that. and I don't see that happening.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I see that you have the pipes mounted under the car to the frame in two locations. This makes the rear most mounting point (the point closest to the rear bumper) the pivot point. Meaning when you put weight on the pipes that stick out from the rear, this will have a downward force while the section of the pipes forward of the pivot point will have an upward force. This puts all the weight on the bolts at the pivot point. This might not be so bad when everything is stationary. However, once you start driving and hitting bumps on the roads and at high speeds with the weight of the rack and bike back there it is going to stress the heck out of the single bolt on each pipe that’s holding up all that weight. Keep in mind the bolt at the other end (closest to the front of the car) isn’t seeing any weight or force because with the seesaw effect of the pivot the pipes at that end is pushing up against the frame. So without knowing the wall thickness of the pipes, the material of the pipes, or the material and diameter of the bolts, it’s hard to say if your setup is safe. Now, your only saving grace is that the length of the pipes sticking out from under the bumper where the rack is mounted to is relatively short so you don’t have too much of a moment arm but again, without knowing the info of the pipes and bolts being used it is very sketchy.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

veryavgwhtguy said:


> Hmmm. This is alarming. I can tell by the amount of green chiclets under your name that you must have a lot of experience in these matters. Any advice on how to reinforce the rack so it doesn't twist off the bolts? Along which axis will the twisting happen?


I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you're using pipes for natural gas, its thick enough not to bend. If you're using electrical conduit, don't.


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## veryavgwhtguy (Jul 31, 2008)

Curiosity got the best of me and I did the design and allowable moment calculations for the pipes. I haven't done any structural design since 1998, so feel free to check my math. Looks like the two pipes together can support about 600 pounds.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

I think the issue is the bolts not the pipe. Is that not true?

J.


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## veryavgwhtguy (Jul 31, 2008)

Thread stripping is the most likely failure mode.

Stress area (As) of the threads of a 1/2" x 13tpi nut = 0.142 in^2

As = 0.7854 [D - (0.9743/n)]^2 
where 
As = stress area (in sq.) 
D = nominal bolt size (in.) 
n = threads per inch

Grade 8 bolt tensile strength (which I used) is 120000 psi.

Thread strength = As * Tensile strength = 0.142in^2 * 120000lb/in^2
Thread strength = 17040 pounds. I think we're good.

Sources: p. A-7 Fastenal. 
and this other chart



JohnJ80 said:


> I think the issue is the bolts not the pipe. Is that not true?
> 
> J.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Having actual info about the pipe and bolts helps in determining if your setup is safe. Nobody can tell just by looking at the pictures. With the questions being asked produced the details of the hardware which allowed everyone to come up with a answer without much assumption. Now, is the hardware stainless steel or basically corrosion resistant? You know the car is going to kick up a lot of nasty stuff from the roads that can easily eat away at the hardware if they're just plain steel.


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## Dirtrider127 (Sep 17, 2010)

I'm about ready to order one of these racks tomorrow but had a couple of questions first
1. Don't the bikes rock forward and back since there is no bar in the center to hold it? Just the arms on the tires. How stable is this?

2.Would the super duty model do a better job of holding the bikes?
(See question #1)

3. I'm not a big fan of the locking bolts but I'm over it now (I guess).
Would the 1UP lock be better than a master lock to secure the rack to the vehicle?

4. Does one color stay in better shape than the other?
I have a Black SUV and was thinking of the silver color.

Thanks in advance


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## 5k bike 50cent legs (Oct 10, 2016)

Dirtrider127 said:


> I'm about ready to order one of these racks tomorrow but had a couple of questions first
> 1. Don't the bikes rock forward and back since there is no bar in the center to hold it? Just the arms on the tires. How stable is this?
> 
> 2.Would the super duty model do a better job of holding the bikes?
> ...


1. The arms are held firmly by a ratcheting mechanism. It is the most stable rack I have ever seen.

2. Probably not, unless you have a 50lb+ bike. I have a super duty, it is awesome.

3. I use a heavy duty chain to lock the frame of my bike and the rack to the hitch.

4. I have silver, it looks like new after many months of use, and I don't ever park my SUV in a garage.


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## Dirtrider127 (Sep 17, 2010)

5k bike 50cent legs said:


> 1. The arms are held firmly by a ratcheting mechanism. It is the most stable rack I have ever seen.
> 
> 2. Probably not, unless you have a 50lb+ bike. I have a super duty, it is awesome.
> 
> ...


Thanks 5K

On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Dirtrider127 said:


> Thanks 5K
> 
> On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?


Not an issue at all. The only part of the bike that touches the rack are the tires so there's no stress on the frame of the bike at all. In fact the tires absorbs shock from the rocking of the bike back and forth during braking and accelerating.


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## 5k bike 50cent legs (Oct 10, 2016)

Dirtrider127 said:


> Thanks 5K
> 
> On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?


No issue at all.


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

The 1Up rack isn't perfect but stability/security of the bikes in the rack is not a problem. When I look in the rear view mirror I see no significant movement, whether it's our mtb's with 29x2.3 tires at 20 psi or our road bikes with 700x23 at 100 psi. Thousands of miles of pavement, hundreds of miles of dirt ... they don't move enough to cause problems. That said, I'd still arrange them to keep an inch or two between bikes if you're carrying more than one (i.e. Seat on one, bars on another, etc) in case they move out of sync. Also, I got silver, cheaper and less likely to show scratches. Finally, I also got their locks, but if you have an appropriately sized U lock or even padlock to lock the rack to a tow chain eye on your hitch, you can both secure it against theft and accidental loosening with one device.


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## SkiNutIan (Mar 20, 2017)

I am new to this forum (long time lurker) so this is my first post! I just purchased a 1 up super duty rack. Like most others, I am very happy with this rack, I think it's the best bike rack out there. One thing that really surprised me (in a good way) was that I am actually able to open my tailgate all the way with my bike on the rack!! When I ordered the rack I didn't think I would have that much room but this is really a great feature! Also, (like others) I purchased a small bike cable lock to replace the velcro strap. Seems to do the job for a security deterrent as well as the safety catch. Truly though I can not see this getting loose and sliding off, after snugging up the ball in the receiver this rack doesn't move at all. I'm a very happy customer!!!


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## Dirtrider127 (Sep 17, 2010)

I pushed the button for a silver super duty and it took all my money


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## Renardo (Sep 27, 2007)

I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

1UP USA should be able to send you the notched slide bar as a replacement (hopefully for free) but in the meantime I suspect you can just use a bungie cord to hook the 2 ends of the holding arms together to keep pressure towards the bike. You can either hook it through the holes on the arms or to the cone shaped cross members.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Renardo said:


> I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.


those bars didn't use to have the notches in them on the earlier produced units. That was a running change. My rack has the smooth bars and they still hold just fine (4yrs+ rack usage) Undoubtedly replacing them with new ones, if you had that style originally, would likely fix them - BUT I'd also ask if the piece that locks onto those bars is subject to wear, and might need replacing.

Good luck getting anything for free from them - never worked for me.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Renardo said:


> I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.


Just call them.

My rack is the same design but older. I haven't had a problem with it holding. The bars of which you speak were smooth when I got it but they no longer are as they become notched from use. How did yours get smooth? I'm thinking if they are smooth, you are not pushing the end pieces in hard enough. I typically do it so that the tires deform substantially. I can't release the arms unless I push in on them to relieve tension. Is that how you are doing it?

J.


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## martinguigou (Apr 17, 2017)

*guarantee*



bad andy said:


> those bars didn't use to have the notches in them on the earlier produced units. That was a running change. My rack has the smooth bars and they still hold just fine (4yrs+ rack usage) Undoubtedly replacing them with new ones, if you had that style originally, would likely fix them - BUT I'd also ask if the piece that locks onto those bars is subject to wear, and might need replacing.
> 
> Good luck getting anything for free from them - never worked for me.


_We stand behind all our products and want you to be completely satisfied with your purchase._
1up USA.com LLC guarantees a lifetime warranty on 1up USA products to the original consumer. Proof of purchase will be required on all warranty claims. Hawaii, Alaska and international customers will be required to pay for shipping on the returned or warranty product


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Haven't had my rack long, but just took it on a weekend trip to the desert. Both on the way there, and the way back, the rack slid out of my hitch about an inch. I wailed on the securing bolt both times with plenty of torque. Granted, this was on really rocky roads, with four bikes, but not very confidence inspiring- wish they had a pin of some sort.

Also, I have the fat bike adapters on all four of my racks, and it definitely causes road bikes to wobble a bit. Gonna swap back to the skinny setup for the summer (though it's a bit of a pain).

Also had a 16" kids' bike fall out, but it's possible I didn't have it tightened quite enough.

Another thought on locking it to the car/ hitch mount: I don't recommend buying the 1up lock. I bought one when I ordered mine as there have been some rack thefts in the area, but the 1up lock prevents you from being able to tighten the securing bolt, which, apparently, is quite necessary on a semi-regular basis.

It's a really well made rack, it's pretty, and it has some cool features, but the kool aid needs some more mix and maybe some sugar. As others have said, for such an expensive rack, there are several "annoyances" that surprise me.


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

My rack hasn't seen much use. Just started with it on a regular basis. Mine is pretty new. So far it hasn't required tightening. Maybe they addressed that on newer ones. 

I do have to say, its a tough ass rack. Yesterday on the am commute I was rear ended. The rack took a square hit. Messed up the Nissan front end pretty good. Only paint scratches and slight marring to a corner. Everything else held up very well. 

As a side note: I realized I have no damn clue how to pivot the rack. How do you do that? What is the release to pivot it? It's a single sled unit, hitch mount.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

alshead said:


> Haven't had my rack long, but just took it on a weekend trip to the desert. Both on the way there, and the way back, the rack slid out of my hitch about an inch. I wailed on the securing bolt both times with plenty of torque. Granted, this was on really rocky roads, with four bikes, but not very confidence inspiring


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Yep- I have a retention system, I'm just disheartened that I'll basically need to rely on it with some regularity. Again, not a big deal, and I can safeguard it, but for twice the cost of other 4-bike hitch racks (Yakima, Thule, Kuat, etc), it's just another small issue that I feel shouldn't exist.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

alshead said:


> Yep- I have a retention system, I'm just disheartened that I'll basically need to rely on it with some regularity. Again, not a big deal, and I can safeguard it, but for twice the cost of other 4-bike hitch racks (Yakima, Thule, Kuat, etc), it's just another small issue that I feel shouldn't exist.


You might have a defect somewhere... I actually have 3 1UP racks, the heavy duty, which I'm getting rid of as I no longer haul 4 bikes, and 2 of the the original racks and knocking hard on wood none have ever loosened on the road.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

edthesped said:


> knocking hard on wood none have ever loosened on the road.


These were pretty rough roads- lots of slow crawling and such. I haven't had a problem in 6 months of ownership until those roads, which I only get to a handful of times a year. I don't think it's a defect, just a design flaw.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

Vtbikologist said:


> Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!


I have a 14 Outback with a Uhaul hitch; when they got done the end of the hitch was further under the bumper than I thought it would be (didn't measure how far) but my 1Up fits perfectly fine with no extender. As a matter of fact, I can insert it the recommended amount and there's still room to fold it up without touching the bumper.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Yeah, I don't think you will need an extender. I do, but my Jeep hitch is also pretty recessed and I have to clear a 35" spare tire hanging off the back. If you ever do need an extender, get the one 1UP sells. It tightens up very well with no sway.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Vtbikologist said:


> Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!


My experience is similar to GWeed. I have 2011 Outback. Hidden Hitch that I bought online. It is a couple of inches at least underneath from end of bumper cover. I have no problem getting past the minimum insertion and being able to fold the rack upright. Given all the vehicles in the world, 1Up is likely being conservative, but with the Outback you should be able to recess the hitch underneath and still have plenty of clearance--YMMV.

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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

We just put a trailer hitch & wiring on our 2014 Outback. Used local Torklift and the fit is great.
https://torkliftcentral.com

We also got the 2" heavy duty 1UP and can set it up to still open the rear hatch without any extenders. Trailer hitch tucks up nicely away and only the 2" sleeve is visible without kneeling down.

Cheers,
Mike


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

Thanks. How hard was the install? It looks scary from the pictures of so much of the back of the car removed. I'm mechanically capable but it's a new car and I don't want to create new problems.


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

I paid Torklift to install it and the wiring due to my shoulder and back problems. 

Suppose to be pretty easy and I think they have a video of one of the mechanics installing one on an Outback.

Cheers,
Mike


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Vtbikologist said:


> Thanks. How hard was the install? It looks scary from the pictures of so much of the back of the car removed. I'm mechanically capable but it's a new car and I don't want to create new problems.


It is way more easy to do it with a new car as stuff is not "stuck together" or embedded with crud.

Go to the Subaru Outback Forum (not MTBR) and search for install hitch. The pictures and steps provided by others are incredibly helpful.

If you do it yourself then you do it the "right" way and avoid drilling holes through the frame rails. If you take it to U-Haul or any place except Subaru dealer, they will drill holes through the frame rails because it is easy and saves them time, and time is money.

To do the right way you take the rear light assemblies off, remove the rear bumper cover (tip: let car sit in warm sun for couple hours so the fiberglass or plastic bumper cover is soft and bendy), remove the rear bumper. Those steps are the easy parts.

You fish the bolts through the frame rails, no drilling required.

Now you get underneath and have to place the hitch in there around the exhaust. This is the hard part. You can drop the exhaust or remove. Most just drop by removing some holders, for a new car dropping should be fine. It is very tight working under there and you need to cut away part of the heat shield because it gets in the way of the hitch and the bolts, but the cutting is very easy.

It took me 6 hours and I had help. But my car was 3 years old when I did it and nothing wanted to come off--just pulling off the bumper cover required a feat of strength.

Still, this is a very easy job, and if you DIY then you can line the hitch up exactly the length that you want recessed from the rear bumper cover. Go for it!

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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

here is a link to the outback forum and the hitch install: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-install-oem-method.html#/topics/47218?page=1

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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I installed a TorkLift eco hitch on my 2016 Subaru STI and the process is very similar to the Outback. It's scary to take that much off the car, but its so much easier than it seems. I had never done anything like this with a vehicle before and was able to get it done (with someone to help) in just under 4 hours, start to finish.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

For the 1up owners out there....do the trays slide left/ride to help reduce bar/seat interference (specifically with a 3 bike setup). I know that each tray is elevated above the previous, so perhaps this is all that is needed to prevent interference. And lastly, anyone carry a 16" kids bike with adult bikes? Seems the bars from the 16" bike would be in the wheel of and adjacent adult bike.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

The trays don't slide. However you can move the bikes a fairly significant amount to the left or right on the trays. I've never carried a bike that small so I can't help with that.

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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

aski said:


> For the 1up owners out there....do the trays slide left/ride to help reduce bar/seat interference (specifically with a 3 bike setup). I know that each tray is elevated above the previous, so perhaps this is all that is needed to prevent interference. And lastly, anyone carry a 16" kids bike with adult bikes? Seems the bars from the 16" bike would be in the wheel of and adjacent adult bike.


You have a lot of side-to-side flexibility because the clamping arms do not need to be at a fixed specific angle to work properly. You just play with it some and you will see.

I have hauled my son's 20" wheel bike with my my mountain bikes and it is just trial and error to find the right spot, it takes less than 5 minutes. A week ago I hauled our bikes 400 miles and when I put his bike on the brake lever made contact with my seat post. All I did was move my bike about an inch in the tray and the problem was solved--it is that easy. On small wheel bikes you will need to adjust the brace on the clamping arm. This may not make sense now but it will the first time you try to mount a 16-20" wheel bike. These braces are basically bolts that screw and unscrew into different positions on the clamping arms. You need to put them in a much lower position for smaller wheels otherwise the wheels will be too low to clamp. This takes about 10 minutes, maybe longer if you don't move to the right hole the first time.

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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

*Show your bike locking solution?*

I placed an order for a 1Up 2 bike rack and two extensions.

I really like the rack locking approach that @canker has taken and may try to do the same.

I'd be interested in seeing what bike locking solutions people are using and how convenient they are. My current rack is a Thule T2 and while the locks aren't amazing, they're really convenient and do what I expect: prevent a casual theft and provide a bit of piece of mind, warranted or not. 

I've read through this thread and read about using a U-Lock with cables, a Master Lock Python, the 1Up bolts, etc. They don't (yet) seem terribly convenient to me (and I imagine even less so to my wife). The nice thing about the built-in solutions is the lock is already there, out of the way when you don't need them, articulates out easily and goes right back when you're done.

Does anyone have a convenient and (sufficiently) effective bike locking solution? Would love to see pictures! :thumbsup:


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## SkiNutIan (Mar 20, 2017)

For the Bikes themselves, most of the times I am just transporting them back and forth between my house and where I'm riding and don't need a lock but when I do, I just use a long cable with a masterlock on it (wraped around bike(s) and rack). For the rack, I just purchased a small cable lock and wrap it around the rack and my receiver (takes about 1 min to put on after I install the rack, which takes about 30 sec). Sort of works like the u-bolt lock would but I don't need a key.


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

@SkiNutIan Thanks. I don't typically use locks either, for the same reason. But went I do (or when my wife does), I'd like it not to be painful. Maybe it'll be less so than I'm imagining.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

I put a U-lock from the hitch bracket to the 1Up Rack, and I use a cable from the U-Lock to the bikes. I keep the lock and cable on the rack (but I'm fortunate and don't drive my 4WD Bike Hauler every day) I've even started locking my bikes IN THE GARAGE. I lock them all the time now, except when on the rack on short trips from the house to the trail. 


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## FlyingD (Sep 12, 2012)

What's the best way to lock the 1up to the hitch as well as lock your bike to the 1up?


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Anybody find that the main hinge of the rack (for folding up/down) has gotten REALLY tight? I was wondering if there's a good way to lube it a little or something.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

FlyingD said:


> What's the best way to lock the 1up to the hitch as well as lock your bike to the 1up?


https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html IMHO is best to protect the 2" rack. They have one for 1 ¼", also.

I used a bunch of solutions to lock my bikes and wheels to the rack or to the hitch receiver eyelet. Litelok is so far the best. At least, not many thiefs are familiar with it yet. I can secure 4 bikes, wheels, and saddles with 4 Liteloks and few cables. No U-Locks anymore anywhere. If your receiver eyelet is too small for Litelok - go to Home Depot and buy Masterlock padlock with long shackle.
The only issue: Kryptonite cables have end loops too small for Litelok, only OnGuard Akita cables have end loops big enough to push Litelok through.


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## FlyingD (Sep 12, 2012)

kosulin said:


> https://www.1upusa.com/product-2hitchbarlock.html IMHO is best to protect the 2" rack. They have one for 1 ¼", also.
> 
> I used a bunch of solutions to lock my bikes and wheels to the rack or to the hitch receiver eyelet. Litelok is so far the best. At least, not many thiefs are familiar with it yet. I can secure 4 bikes, wheels, and saddles with 4 Liteloks and few cables. No U-Locks anymore anywhere. If your receiver eyelet is too small for Litelok - go to Home Depot and buy Masterlock padlock with long shackle.
> The only issue: Kryptonite cables have end loops too small for Litelok, only OnGuard Akita cables have end loops big enough to push Litelok through.


Awesome info!! Thank you!!


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## whezy (Apr 6, 2017)

Just got my Quick Rack. Mounted it on the factory hitch of the Sprinter Van and bam.. The bike handlebar is hitting the back window of the van. Anyone run into this?


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

whezy said:


> Just got my Quick Rack. Mounted it on the factory hitch of the Sprinter Van and bam.. The bike handlebar is hitting the back window of the van. Anyone run into this?


no, but you can get an extender. anyway, how far did you insert it? the recommended amount or more?


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## fleboz (Apr 22, 2015)

was going to post the same as thegweed....seems like you are inserting it a little too far. if no, maybe a picture would help.


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

Just got a Quick Rack, and really liking it coming from a Thule T2. Do you guys recommend the hitch lock from 1Up? Lots of thieves in San Diego. I take it that a cable lock would be better to buy then the wheel locks?

BTW for the questions above- on my Forester, I needed an extender for the Thule on my U-haul hitch, but not so for the 1UP. It seems I get about 3" of insertion, and my rack still has about 1/2" clearance form my bumper. I'm stoked on this because the extender made that thing stick way out.


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

What I do is U-Lock my rack to the car hitch through a hole in the hitch for trailer chains. I then use the wheel locks and if it is just my bike, then I put one on each wheel. If I have more bikes then, I will put one in each rear wheel. I then use a cable lock to connect the frame to the rack. If I have other bikes then I use a second cable lock and lock them together. I know nothing is foolproof, but for the most part I think it looks confusing enough and time consuming enough then nobody will bother it. I always make a point that when parked at an eatery that I eat outside to keep an eye on it the whole time. The place I work at is pretty secure, so I don't worry about it like I would in a public area.


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

tooclosetosee said:


> What I do is U-Lock my rack to the car hitch through a hole in the hitch for trailer chains. I then use the wheel locks and if it is just my bike, then I put one on each wheel. If I have more bikes then, I will put one in each rear wheel. I then use a cable lock to connect the frame to the rack. If I have other bikes then I use a second cable lock and lock them together. I know nothing is foolproof, but for the most part I think it looks confusing enough and time consuming enough then nobody will bother it. I always make a point that when parked at an eatery that I eat outside to keep an eye on it the whole time. The place I work at is pretty secure, so I don't worry about it like I would in a public area.


Thanks for the ideas!


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I do the same with both wheel locks and a cable lock. If I am going on a road trip I carry electrical (vinyl) tape and secure the cable and u-lock down so they don't vibrate or rub on any painted or carbon surface.


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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

scepticshock said:


> Just got a Quick Rack, and really liking it coming from a Thule T2. Do you guys recommend the hitch lock from 1Up? Lots of thieves in San Diego. I take it that a cable lock would be better to buy then the wheel locks?
> 
> BTW for the questions above- on my Forester, I needed an extender for the Thule on my U-haul hitch, but not so for the 1UP. It seems I get about 3" of insertion, and my rack still has about 1/2" clearance form my bumper. I'm stoked on this because the extender made that thing stick way out.


I use the hitch lock and its pretty nice. I tried finding a long enough padlock but didn't find anything readily available at home depot or lowes. The wheel locks seem like a good idea too, though I might only use them for longer stops.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

I've been through a lot of this thread and searched all over and have one question.

Has anyone tried drilling a hole in the hitch mount bar to be able to insert some type of hitch pin, even just on one side?

I was thinking that a hole could be drilled into one side away from the locking ball bolt and a clamp could be used to at least get something solid through the hitch and rack post as an extra safety measure.

Thoughts?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

This seems like a super good idea. You first.

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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

Silentfoe said:


> This seems like a super good idea. You first.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Something similar seems to work for the Thule T2 Pro. I just figured someone may have tried with the 1up, considering all the different things people are doing to make sure the rack doesn't slide out.

And yes, I'm aware that it very likely would void any warranty from the company.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

MDRex said:


> Something similar seems to work for the Thule T2 Pro. I just figured someone may have tried with the 1up, considering all the different things people are doing to make sure the rack doesn't slide out.
> 
> And yes, I'm aware that it very likely would void any warranty from the company.


 I don't think it would be a smart idea to drill a hole through the shaft of the rack that goes into the receiver hitch if that's what you're suggesting. I'm saying this because the mechanisms to push the ball on the corner of the shaft while you'er turning the allan key that secures it to the inside of the receiver is in that shaft. By drilling a hole right through it will destroy that mechanism and disable that function... unless that's your purpose and want to replace that mechanism with the hitch pin.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

tonyride1 said:


> I don't think it would be a smart idea to drill a hole through the shaft of the rack that goes into the receiver hitch if that's what you're suggesting. I'm saying this because the mechanisms to push the ball on the corner of the shaft while you'er turning the allan key that secures it to the inside of the receiver is in that shaft. By drilling a hole right through it will destroy that mechanism and disable that function... unless that's your purpose and want to replace that mechanism with the hitch pin.


My idea was just drill on one side away from the internal mechanism (if there's even room). That's the setup used on the Thule. Just an idea and I am not a fan of drilling it either, I just wanted to see if anyone had actually tried it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> I don't think it would be a smart idea to drill a hole through the shaft of the rack that goes into the receiver hitch if that's what you're suggesting. I'm saying this because the mechanisms to push the ball on the corner of the shaft while you'er turning the allan key that secures it to the inside of the receiver is in that shaft. By drilling a hole right through it will destroy that mechanism and disable that function... unless that's your purpose and want to replace that mechanism with the hitch pin.


Going to the traditional pin through the receiver scheme with no means to take up the slack means it's going to rattle like crazy, be noisy and probably sway a lot more. Probably also do some weakening of the entire tongue.

If anyone felt compelled to do this to this rack, I'd suggest making a different rack purchase.

J.


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## whezy (Apr 6, 2017)

fleboz said:


> was going to post the same as thegweed....seems like you are inserting it a little too far. if no, maybe a picture would help.


Have it just at 4" insertion. The minimum advisable. Used it this past weekend on a 100km trip and actually had no issues. The 1" clearance was mitigated by putting a tennis ball on the bar end closest to the van window. (Advice from 1up support) pics are below. Minus tennis ball.









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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

First, drilling the hitch shaft is very dangerous idea. It not just weakens the shaft, but high frequency vibration from drill may develop micro cracks that may cause complete shaft failure/breakage with time.
Second, replacement of pin with expander ball can save a ton of money for you (it did for me) in case of small impact from behind your car. For example, during bumper2bumper parking or when you hit a high sidewalk curb. Hard connector like pin means broken rack, but with expander ball the rack shaft just slides deeper inside receiver, and the rack can be safely used again.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

Thanks for the replies. It was just a different idea I hadn't seen yet that I wanted some feedback on. I wouldn't try it myself on my brand new, yet to even be delivered, rack.

Now I'm annoyed that my hitch and rack will be here Thursday and the damn car (which is only 4 months old) is going into the shop tonight for a transmission issue.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

*Do this instead of the tennis ball and it will be fine.*



whezy said:


> Have it just at 4" insertion. The minimum advisable. Used it this past weekend on a 100km trip and actually had no issues. The 1" clearance was mitigated by putting a tennis ball on the bar end closest to the van window. (Advice from 1up support) pics are below. Minus tennis ball.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I humbly suggest a hitch extender of about 7 inches.

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Brophy/HE06.html


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Did they lengthen the arms recently? I had a scary moment today. I had my road bike on and was driving down the road. I had apparently not made sure the black spring bar was well in the notch. I look back and see the tray go into almost-horizontal position in a second. It scared the heck out of me. Fortunately, the rack held the bike securely and there was no damage. I'd have been crying if that bike got wrecked. I just built it up with Chris King turquoise hubs and Dura Ace.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.

One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.

Two, installing all of these locks defeats the purpose of having a rack that is able to be installed and removed so quickly. 

Three, they will probably not redesign the locking mechanism bc the racks are selling like hotcakes even with the few weaknesses/faults because it is solidly built and a good design for bike transport. 

I'm still considering buying a Quik Rack because my bike has a long wheelbase, just over 48" and most Kuat, Thule and Yakima tray racks are limited to a max of 48". I just think the $300/$350 for a single tray rack should come with enough features to secure it to the vehicle without spending an additional $50 on locks.

I've had a Yakima Highlite 2 for five years and never had a single problem. It locks securely to the vehicle via a built-in mechanism and has an included cable lock (that could easily be cut). One provided key works for both locks. However, I want a tray rack so nothing touches the frame on my new bike.

Is the best solution thus far to buy the 1Up hitch bar lock and maybe a thick padded chain and lock that can go through the bike and also secure the rack to the hitch? Then at least there are just two locks vs. three. It just really then isn't any quicker to install than most other racks.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> Yup, The first claim was definitely fake. Many have called him out on it, myself included, and he never responded. I've done tests with mine and it never moved after driving hundreds of miles with 2 bikes on. What I do is once the rack is in the receiver and tightened up I wrap the exposed shaft with duct tape leaving no gap between the tape and the end of the receiver. This way if I see a gap between them then I know it has shifted. After thousands of miles in over years it hasn't moved an inch. So when I put the rack back on the hitch I use the tape as a guide to know what to stop inserting.


I've had one of the original racks since 2010 and we've done probably done about 15,000 miles with it on - a lot of it at highway speeds ~80mph. It has never ever loosened. Once we hit a pavement defect (pavement starting to buckle on very hot day) and the car felt like it almost went airborne - and no problem with the rack. We do check it after about 20 miles of highway driving just to make sure there was no junk in the receiver that we were compressing instead of metal to metal contact. Once tight, it stays tight.

The only purpose of the ball is to put pressure on the receiver and create friction to keep the rack from sliding out of the receiver. The ball is not weight bearing; it's the receiver that hold up the weight of the rack and the bikes. It's hard to understand, since the receivers are a standard, how the a rack would loosen or the rack is incompatible with a particular kind or brand of receiver. I can, however, understand that if a receiver were old and was corroded or if it had picked up a lot of junk in the receiver, why that particular receiver might have problems staying tight. In that case, the ball would not be making good solid metal to metal contact.

J.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Levelheadsteve said:


> I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.
> 
> One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.
> 
> ...


the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.

the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.

in terms of bike security no rack system is worth anything if someone wants your bike. you can use locks to delay or send them to the next easier target. i never leave the bikes out of my eye sight when on the rack--that is the best security system.

despite the alleged flaws in the 1Up I don't see any credible threads on thefts on rash of thefts of racks, or of slippage. but there was the post recently on slippage over off road terrain.

in terms of time, using the straight bolt over hex/ball takes less than a minute. the deterrent like on the bike wheels takes less time. getting the frame out of the locked wheels is going to take time. but if you left it unattended while you went to the bar or the store, it's
really on you for giving thieves too much time.,
don't matter if it is 1Up yakima thule,etc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

My two cents here ... I've had a 1Up for about a year and wasn't crazy about some details at first. Over time, with familiarity, I'm finding that removal and replacement goes pretty quickly and really isn't hard. I use an old toe strap instead of the Velcro, but honestly it's never budged. I use the 1Up lock bolt that blocks the tightening bolt and I suspect that's enough theft deterrence (along with the security head on the tightening bolt) ... if someone's going to start cutting and grinding they can cut anything. For the bikes themselves I use the 1Up wheel locks for casual situations, and a padded chain through the bikes/rack and to the vehicle hitch for the occasional overnight or otherwise risky situations. But to me the real time saver with the 1Up is the ease of bike loading and unloading. I've hauled everything from road bikes to 3.0 tire Plus bikes, and it is fast and secure. I have enough experience with Thule, Hollywood and Yakima (not Kuat though) to be confident that if you don't have fenders, 1Up is the best for versatile and rugged bike attachment.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

objectuser said:


> I placed an order for a 1Up 2 bike rack and two extensions.
> 
> I really like the rack locking approach that @canker has taken and may try to do the same.
> 
> ...





cjsb said:


> the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.
> 
> the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
> miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.
> ...


Each rack has its pros and cons. I'm just saying that a built-in lock for the hitch tightening mechanism would be great. Many people throughout this thread (which has spanned several years) have had problems with the hitch bolt loosening and getting a little sliding of the rack out of the hitch. To prevent it, people are primarily using U locks. This simply isn't a problem with any other rack I've heard of bc they normally have a hitch pin drilled through. It would be nice if 1Up came up with a real solution for this. Not a deal breaker, but something to consider when buying a new and expensive rack.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

cjsb said:


> the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.
> 
> the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
> miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.
> ...


Honestly, and I didn't take offense, but about the only "overreacting" in this thread has been the people flaming anyone who criticizes the 1Up rack. The rack sounds great, however, there is definitely room for improvement. It shouldn't upset people to discuss the pros and cons. Regardless, I'll still probably get one due to the long wheelbase on my new bike.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

I just got mine and love it. I can see the purpose for not having it drilled for a hitch pin, that would limit the install depth. Having the ball feature lets you adjust how far you insert it into the hitch. I'm just using a U-lock I happened to already have and the thickest cable I could find that has looped ends to use with the U-lock. The only other thing I did was put some liquid electrical tape over the 2 bolts that stick out of the adjustable arms so they don't scratch anything on the off chance they make contact when putting the bike on or off.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Levelheadsteve said:


> I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.
> 
> One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.
> 
> I'm still considering buying a Quik Rack because my bike has a long wheelbase, just over 48" and most Kuat, Thule and Yakima tray racks are limited to a max of 48". I just think the $300/$350 for a single tray rack should come with enough features to secure it to the vehicle without spending an additional $50 on locks.


Okay, you do not own a 1Up, and yet here you are based on READING this entire thread, proclaiming that 1UP SHOULD REDESIGN THE RACK.

Those are your words and I was really diplomatic and shared my own experience having used and owned one for several years.

Why SHOULD 1Up become like other products?

Instead, you SHOULD buy the other product and state why you are buying it.

Then 1Up, quaking in their boots because someone as Levelheaded as Steve on MTBR has gone with the competition, will stop everything and redesign their product.

Let the market decide, if you want more insurance and can pay less for it, then just do it. But don't be calling other consumers "flamers" when you do not know what you are talking about.

I also owned a Yakima roof rack for 10+ years before getting the 1UP. The Yakima was a fantastic product, despite the fact that they can be and are stolen, right off a damn car roof (this is SoCal after all), they apparently are the devil according to GW alarmists/conflators, and it's really easy to steal your bike off one even with that cable lock (this is SoCal after all, and anything that is locked down can still be stolen.). Despite all that it was a wonderful rack and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Yakima or get another one myself if I wanted a roof rack.

Oh wait, "Hey Yakima, redesign your product because I am buying a Thule!"

Yours truly,

I don't know what I'm talking about

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

Has anyone actually tried to remove a bike from the rack while it is in the wheel locks? I know it doesn't secure your frame, but I think people think that it is super easy and I don't know if anyone has tested out how "easy" it really is. I also use this Syntace X-12 System Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Axles | Jenson USA so they would need a hex wrench as well. From what I understand is that most low level thieves want to be able to ride away on the bike.

I use the u-lock for security and peace of mind that my rack isn't going to be falling out of the hitch. My rack has never loosened up, but killing two birds with one stone and it takes like 10 seconds to put on.

If you give people unlimited time in an unsupervised area, then no lock(s) will be 100% proof. I just try to keep my bike from being the low hanging fruit.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

cjsb said:


> Okay, you do not own a 1Up, and yet here you are based on READING this entire thread, proclaiming that 1UP SHOULD REDESIGN THE RACK.
> 
> Those are your words and I was really diplomatic and shared my own experience having used and owned one for several years.
> 
> ...


I am basing my opinion on the complaints, made over a span of several years, throughout this thread entitled, "1Up Quik Rack Quick Review." This entire website was created to enable people to make informed decisions on mountain bikes and related products before buying a product. However, even if I had already bought the product and then posted my thoughts, would it matter? Read through the thread. People like you and a few others flame people who have a criticism of the rack.

Based upon the repeated problems people are having with the rack loosening during usage, coupled with having to figure out their own solution for securing it to the vehicle, I believe the locking mechanism should be redesigned. 1Up has redesigned other features of their racks over the years, so they seem to want to improve their already popular product.

I'm sorry my previous comments hurt your feelings.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Levelheadsteve said:


> I am basing my opinion on the complaints, made over a span of several years, throughout this thread entitled, "1Up Quik Rack Quick Review." This entire website was created to enable people to make informed decisions on mountain bikes and related products before buying a product. However, even if I had already bought the product and then posted my thoughts, would it matter? Read through the thread. People like you and a few others flame people who have a criticism of the rack.
> 
> Based upon the repeated problems people are having with the rack loosening during usage, coupled with having to figure out their own solution for securing it to the vehicle, I believe the locking mechanism should be redesigned. 1Up has redesigned other features of their racks over the years, so they seem to want to improve their already popular product.
> 
> I'm sorry my previous comments hurt your feelings.


you have not hurt my feelings.

I haven't flamed anyone and that's my main point of contention with your ********.

you cannot seem to take a counterpoint or criticism of your baseless post.

if you had said you prefer belts and suspenders and another product provides it for you, I would not chime in at all. You are basing your decision on the feedback from others and your personal preferences.

But your proclamation that 1Up should redesign its product is baseless and stupid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

tooclosetosee said:


> Has anyone actually tried to remove a bike from the rack while it is in the wheel locks? I know it doesn't secure your frame, but I think people think that it is super easy and I don't know if anyone has tested out how "easy" it really is. I also use this Syntace X-12 System Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Axles | Jenson USA so they would need a hex wrench as well. From what I understand is that most low level thieves want to be able to ride away on the bike.


That's a good idea with the thru axles. Every extra deterrents helps.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

cjsb said:


> you have not hurt my feelings.
> 
> I haven't flamed anyone and that's my main point of contention with your ********.
> 
> ...


I specifically stated my opinion was based upon the complaints made, over a number of years, throughout this thread.

I'm sorry my comments have upset you so much that you aren't able to clearly comprehend what you are reading.

Edit: I had to add this quote from you. It is cracking me up.

"You are basing your decision on the feedback from others and your personal preferences. But your proclamation that 1Up should redesign its product is baseless and stupid."

You state exactly what I'm basing my opinion on and then your very next sentence states that my opinion is baseless (and stupid). Lol. You have made my day. You have to find joy in the little things. The irony too with the "stupid" comment, right? Lol


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

I wanted to add that on my 2017 Forester I am able to fold the rack up. I seem to remember some posts saying they couldn't do that on their Foresters. I have 3.5" from front of receiver to the edge of the ball, which gives me about an inch clearance between the folded rack and the bumper. There does not seem to be any play that would allow them to make contact.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Levelheadsteve said:


> I specifically stated my opinion was based upon the complaints made, over a number of years, throughout this thread.
> 
> I'm sorry my comments have upset so much that you aren't able to clearly comprehend what you are reading.


i understand you perfectly. instead of you claiming me and others are "flaming" you could have asked about our own actual experiences with the product. don't act like you are a victim here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

cjsb said:


> i understand you perfectly. instead of you claiming me and others are "flaming" you could have asked about our own actual experiences with the product. don't act like you are a victim here.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't need to ask about actual experiences as hundreds of people have already posted them. Do you understand how Internet forums work?


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

Levelheadsteve said:


> Do you understand how Internet forums work?


Yes, people read things and make stuff up then try to summarize the thread in a tone which represents absolute truth, but isn't based on actual experience.

Sorry. I have one of these, and am one of the people where it loosens too much. I still think anyone suggesting a redesign without having one is ignorant. There's just something damaged in either my receiver or the rack, the rack has taken a lot of abuse. They already addressed the 'easy to remove' issue with a small change a year or two ago. There is no simpler 'safety+security' redesign than 'throw on a u-lock'. It'll still take less time (expander + u-lock) than a through-pin, and yes I've had a rack with that style attachment too.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

mbmtb said:


> Yes, people read things and make stuff up then try to summarize the thread in a tone which represents absolute truth, but isn't based on actual experience.
> 
> Sorry. I have one of these, and am one of the people where it loosens too much. I still think anyone suggesting a redesign without having one is ignorant. There's just something damaged in either my receiver or the rack, the rack has taken a lot of abuse. They already addressed the 'easy to remove' issue with a small change a year or two ago. There is no simpler 'safety+security' redesign than 'throw on a u-lock'. It'll still take less time (expander + u-lock) than a through-pin, and yes I've had a rack with that style attachment too.


What an ignorant comment. Do you really think it's impossible to tell how a simple mechanical device works without owning it? You can see how it works by watching the multitude of videos online and reading hundreds of posts that explain it in detail. There are several posts that explain how to take the mechanism apart and reassemble. There is also a post that discusses how and where to drill a hole for a locking pin, though it isn't advised.

There is something simpler than throwing a U lock on it. It's called a built-in locking mechanism. They don't have to add a through-pin either. They can stick with the Velcro strap.

I made a simple suggestion for a possible improvement and some people can't deal with it. There may be a really good reason why 1UP doesn't make a change to a different locking mechanism design, but they haven't spoken up about it in this thread either way yet. Btw, they've made improvements over the years, so it seems they are open to suggestions and can admit their product can be improved, unlike many who own the rack.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Levelheadsteve said:


> I don't need to ask about actual experiences as hundreds of people have already posted them. Do you understand how Internet forums work?


I do not understand. But since du bist ein expert, you can please proceed avoiding and calling people flamers who have a different experience than your non-experience... so which rack company are you working for or affiliated with?

Yours truly,

Trolls bein' Trolls

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tooclosetosee (Aug 2, 2011)

Honestly, the u-lock may be faster than the velcro strap. 

Has anyone actually tried to take a bike out with the wheel locks?

Levelheadsteve......a lot of people are totally cool with a cable/chain lock and a U-lock. I prefer the wheel locks as well. It appears that you are the only person that has a problem with it and you don't own it. 

Either buy it or don't buy it, I really don't care. You aren't going to convince the people here that spent a lot of money one one of the nicest racks money can buy that they bought the wrong rack based on your internet sleuthing.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

U-lock works for me to secure the rack to the hitch. Although my rack has never slipped out the lock provides a piece of mind for both safety and security. It takes 5 seconds to put on and take off. If you look at the picture I posted you'll see what I mean. If I wanted to lock my bike I'll just use a cable lock and loop the ends to the said u-lock.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

cjsb said:


> I do not understand. But since du bist ein expert, you can please proceed avoiding and calling people flamers who have a different experience than your non-experience... so which rack company are you working for or affiliated with?
> 
> Yours truly,
> 
> ...


Wow. Your feelings are really hurt from my earlier comments. Here is my exact quote, "Honestly, and I didn't take offense, but about the only "overreacting" in this thread has been the people flaming anyone who criticizes the 1Up rack." I didn't call you a flamer, but you are extremely sensitive to it judging by the three times you've referred to being a "flamer" in your subsequent posts. Your posts are proving my point. I have a criticism about the 1UP rack and you can't handle it. You call me a troll even though I've been on MTBR since 2010 and have 130+ posts.

I like how anyone who criticizes the 1UP rack is a troll in your mind. So much so that you believe someone bought a 1UP rack, damaged it, set it on the side of the highway with bikes on it, took pictures and posted it on the forum here to discredit the rack. Lol. Time to get a thicker gauge of tinfoil for your hat.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

Levelheadsteve said:


> You can see how it works by watching the multitude of videos online and reading hundreds of posts that explain it in detail. There are several posts that explain how to take the mechanism apart and reassemble. There is also a post that discusses how and where to drill a hole for a locking pin, though it isn't advised.


Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

MDRex said:


> Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.


I would like to see the video also. In order for it work the hole will have to be right in the middle of the square shaft so it will line up with the holes in the receiver but the mechanism to secure the ball runs right through the middle of the shaft so drilling a hole will definitely render it useless or maybe that's the intent.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

cjsb said:


> I could see it coming loose from user error, e.g., not tight enough to begin with, not checking it periodically, or not using the strap.


Yes. I agree. I would also consider a receiver that is in poor condition - i.e. significant debris in the receiver or corroded - to be user error. The strap is to protect against user error and is a redundantcy.



> When I drive to visit family in Blacksburg, about 5 hours from me with a stop, I will check it when I stop. Sometimes I get a very tiny amount of movement when I tighten but most of the time nothing.


Same for me. I bet 1 out of 20 times (or less) I can tighten more on the double check.

J.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Holy cow. So many touchy people. LevelHeadedSteve's comments weren't that dramatic, but a few people lost their sh1t over the word 'redesign.' Does anyone seriously think that having a lock incorporated into the hitch, and/or a way to lock the wheel arms into place would be a step backwards? I've had my 1-Up for 5 years. In that time they've introduced quite a few running changes, so they are clearly willing to add or change features.

IMO the 1-Up is still the best tray rack on the market and I recommend it regularly. I've probably helped sell a dozen of them here. I bought mine for the adaptability, small folded size, quick on/off, and lack of plastic. What I'm completely sold on is the way that you can adjust the bikes' positions and quickly and easily load two bikes with no contact. My girlfriend's Kuat sucks for that- the front trays don't move so there's very little ability to move the bikes relative to each other. Depending on the cockpit setup, you can end up with saddles or seatposts rubbing bars unless you loosen the stem and turn the bars.

I rarely lock my rack to the vehicle; usually I only do that on a trip to a larger city or riding destination. If I leave my bike/rack unattended I loop a big motorcycle chain through the frame and lock it with a padlock. Neither of those is a deal breaker or even a major annoyance, but if I were imagining improvements, I'd love a quick way to lock the arms in position for casual use around my small town. 

The hitch design isn't the greatest, though. It's nice that I can position the stinger precisely where I want it, but I have issues with mine loosening, and yes, I have checked all the issues mentioned above. Reports of thousands of highway miles without any detectable loosening don't mean anything to me because I've had those same results myself. But even 10 miles of driving an indifferently maintained dirt road, with big ruts, water bars, humps, etc., consistently loosens it. Not a washboarded gravel road, but the kind of road that makes 20-25 mph feel wild. That always leaves me needing to put a quarter to half turn on the wrench.


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## 7daysaweek (May 7, 2008)

evasive said:


> Holy cow.


Seriously. For what it's worth, I kind of agree with Steve and his level head. May be time for them to consider an update.

It never ceases to amaze me both the lengths people will go to to modify their 1UP racks or the ferocity with which they will defend them. Like any other product there are pros and cons... just don't mention the cons around here.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

MDRex said:


> Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.


The post is a discussion within this (lengthy) thread about drilling it. There isn't a video about drilling it. When I mentioned video, I was referring to the YouTube videos from 1up and from rack owners about the rack overall. If I run across the post discussing drilling, I'll link it, but if I had to guess, it's about halfway through (pages in the teens maybe).


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

tooclosetosee said:


> Honestly, the u-lock may be faster than the velcro strap.
> 
> Has anyone actually tried to take a bike out with the wheel locks?
> 
> ...


I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything. I just wish the design had a built-in lock, just like many other people have discussed throughout this thread. I'm not "the only person that has a problem with it."

What is with some of the people in this 1UP rack thread? I just bought a Pivot Switchblade. If someone said, "It would be nice if more hub manufacturers made a super boost 157 hub or the hub spacing could be a problem down the road" or offered a suggested improvement, I wouldn't call them a troll or accuse of them of trying to convince me to buy a different bike. I also wouldn't tell them they couldn't possibly understand or offer a criticism or improvement without owning it.

I've already mentioned a few times that I'll probably still buy the 1UP due to the long wheelbase of my bike. I'm simply doing a lot of research and trying to discuss the pros and cons of different racks and designs. However, according to some I'm simply a troll trying to make you all feel bad about your rack purchases. Really? It's weird what the anonymity of the internet does to some people. If we were all having a conversation around a table, discussing this rack, I doubt anyone would be accusing me of being a troll or being paid by another rack manufacturer or even saying something like, "Either buy it or don't, I really don't care." We would just discuss it. Apparently that can't happen in this thread.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Either buy it or don't, I really don't care. Seriously.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

7daysaweek said:


> Seriously. For what it's worth, I kind of agree with Steve and his level head. May be time for them to consider an update.
> 
> It never ceases to amaze me both the lengths people will go to to modify their 1UP racks or the ferocity with which they will defend them. Like any other product there are pros and cons... just don't mention the cons around here.


Thanks man. Do you own one? Maybe I could pm you with a few questions to avoid upsetting everyone else.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

While a built-in lock for the bikes is a nice idea, I think the cables that I've seen on other racks really don't provide much security. I've even read reports of people pulling the cables out of the racks. I think the U-lock to secure the rack itself is better than the security you'd get from a locking hitch pin, which can be broken fairly easily. But of course there are a number of different solutions. I found that for me the pros of the 1UP far outweigh the cons.

My plan is to never leave the bike unattended on the rack, which will be hard on our trip to the beach when we stop for beer and lunch at the Answer Brewpub (favorite place on earth BTW).


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

evasive said:


> Holy cow. So many touchy people. LevelHeadedSteve's comments weren't that dramatic, but a few people lost their sh1t over the word 'redesign.' Does anyone seriously think that having a lock incorporated into the hitch, and/or a way to lock the wheel arms into place would be a step backwards? I've had my 1-Up for 5 years. In that time they've introduced quite a few running changes, so they are clearly willing to add or change features.
> 
> IMO the 1-Up is still the best tray rack on the market and I recommend it regularly. I've probably helped sell a dozen of them here. I bought mine for the adaptability, small folded size, quick on/off, and lack of plastic. What I'm completely sold on is the way that you can adjust the bikes' positions and quickly and easily load two bikes with no contact. My girlfriend's Kuat sucks for that- the front trays don't move so there's very little ability to move the bikes relative to each other. Depending on the cockpit setup, you can end up with saddles or seatposts rubbing bars unless you loosen the stem and turn the bars.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the great feedback, especially the comment on the Kuat as that is one I am also considering. Looks like a 1UP is probably the way to go, despite the need for a U lock to ensure it from sliding out. The Saris Superclamp looks nice too, but you have to pay an extra $99 for a long wheelbase tray if over 48".


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## 7daysaweek (May 7, 2008)

Levelheadsteve said:


> Thanks man. Do you own one? Maybe I could pm you with a few questions to avoid upsetting everyone else.


I don't. Don't tell anyone but **whispers** I bought a Kuat. :blush:

Since I see you're also considering a Kuat I can tell you what my criteria were. I also looked into 1UP.

The decision for me came down to how often I'd be removing the rack and how often my bike would be on it without me around.

I liked the weight of the 1UP since I thought I'd remove the rack regularly to keep it from being out in the elements a lot. In reality for me that hasn't been an issue. The Kuat takes up a lot more space than a single 1UP when removed. Doesn't seem to be much more than the double 1UP and I doubt you'd take it apart much for storage so from a space perspective they're about the same. My Kuat is almost always on the car but spends time at home in the garage and hasn't fared too badly in the elements over the last 3 or 4 years.

Then there's the bike interference issue. This comes up occasionally with two bikes on my rack. Not all the time but certain bike combos have had issues. One of mine has a dropped so it's easy to get it out of the way but I have had instances where I've had to pull out a hex wrench and lower a seatpost to make room. Not a huge deal but it is kind of annoying so I can see where the adjustability of the 1UP would be nice.

The 1UP only touches the tires on the bike which is nice. Oddly I have seen the effects of this more on the rack than the bike. My bikes show no evidence of any contact with the rack but the rubber on the top of the wheel holder arm on my Kuat has been warn away by contact with the brake hose mount on my fork. It was alarming at first but hasn't been an issue so doesn't bother me but points to 1UP here for holding by only the tires.

The biggest issue for me was the locking features. I'm a paranoid person and I'd always be concerned about a rack without a hitch pin so I really like that the Kuat comes with a locking hitchpin to keep it on the car and hopefully deter lazy, would-be thieves. The built in cable lock is also great. If I have to run an errand on the way back from a ride I'm set. Yes you can do it with a cable lock in the car and a 1UP but it's just so much easier not to have to think about it. Stopping by the grocery store or chinese place on the way home from a ride and being able to lock the bike so it would delay a theft is nice. No I wouldn't leave it out overnight somewhere locked to the rack but for short stops where I'm just around the corner it makes me feel reasonably comfortable about leaving it.

Those were my thoughts when deciding on a rack and I've been happy with my decision. I've done nothing to it but install it and use it since buying and it does the job.

If you're going to be taking it off and on a lot and a lock isn't a deal breaker there are definitely benefits to the 1UP. And some folks think it's the nicest looking option as well.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

7daysaweek said:


> I don't. Don't tell anyone but **whispers** I bought a Kuat. :blush:
> 
> Since I see you're also considering a Kuat I can tell you what my criteria were. I also looked into 1UP.
> 
> The decision for me came down to how often I'd be removing the rack and how often my bike would be on it without me around.


Thanks for all the information. For the first year, I'll be removing the rack after every ride. However, next year, once we get a new car for my wife, I will be able to leave it on most of the time. It'd be nice to have a really light rack for the first year, but not a deal breaker.


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

kuats are nice, include a lock and some of them have tool stands. but the 1up still has a number of advantages:
* much much easier to put on a variety of bike shapes. and even to just put on a single bike.
* the rise in the back means you're less likely to hit a curb in a dip. 
* more solid construction. (yeah, it's lighter but also simpler).

if the tools and locks are most important to you, go for another option.

yes, you could imagine some 1up redesigns. e.g. a locking knob instead of a 'security' bolt + place to put a padlock, or a locking mechanism on the arm release instead of a hole to put a padlock. and i'm actually surprised no one has made a similar type thing with a 'professional' (vs garage) aesthetic. but it just works.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I looked at Kuat racks also mainly because friends of mine have (had) one and it looked great. They are nice but with my specific preferences and taste I went with the 1UP USA... obviously. Since 99.9% of the time I'm using the rack I'll only have 1 bike on it so the 1UP rack makes sense. This will allow me to fold it and put it in the trunk when I'm out riding and the ease of doing that is a plus. For those other times when I need to carry more than 1 bike I did buy an add-on attachment which hangs in my garage collecting dust most of the time. I also appreciate the ease and speed the bike goes on and comes off the bike. I can literally put a bike on and then take it off again in less than 10 seconds. One time my buddy (the one with the Kuat) and I both started putting our bikes on our racks at the same time after a ride and by the time I got my bike loaded he was still fussing with wheel straps. He noticed the huge time difference also and after he got his bike secured he walked over, took a closer look and started asking me about the rack. He asked me how the bike loads and unloads and I showed him. His only words were "That's it? Just like that?" Sure the Kuat may look flashy and fancy and sort of "in your face" given its size when folded up but there's also beauty in simplicity.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

mbmtb said:


> yes, you could imagine some 1up redesigns. e.g. a locking knob instead of a 'security' bolt + place to put a padlock.






That would be a Yakima design. The rest of their rack isn't as nice as 1up but the receiver interface looks pretty sweet.


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## alanbruce (Jun 14, 2017)

Totally agree with you, but about the racks?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

alanbruce said:


> Totally agree with you, but about the racks?


What racks? Tell me more about wine prices, wine auctions, wine auction houses, and auction results from selling wine. Please, I want to know.


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## 7daysaweek (May 7, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> He noticed the huge time difference


It's a ratcheting arm and one wheel strap...

Aside from hanging racks vs platform racks I don't really see how time to load is ever a consideration for choosing between racks but maybe it's harder for some folks.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

7daysaweek said:


> It's a ratcheting arm and one wheel strap...
> 
> Aside from hanging racks vs platform racks I don't really see how time to load is ever a consideration for choosing between racks but maybe it's harder for some folks.


To each their own. Different people have different reasons for buying what they buy. Who's to say which is best for someone else? For me it's the 1UP rack based on my own personal preferences and criteria. For my buddy, it was the Kuat. He was curious and I showed him how it works. I didn't try to talk him into switching to a 1UP rack nor was I criticizing his Kuat. He just saw the simplicity of the 1UP and wanted to know more about it. He did get rid of the Kuat. I think it was because he said it didn't have a conversion kit for his fat bike.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

Any comments on the durability of the black finish vs. the silver? I like the black finish, but if it's just going to be scratched to hell in a few months, I'll get the silver. Thanks.


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

I have the black finish. I haven't had any problems with scratches, but mine has faded. It stays on my car all the time, and the high desert sun here in western Colorado is pretty intense. It has changed to a bronze-y color. I think it still looks okay, but it's enough of a change that it might bother some people. I'm still a big fan of the rack and wouldn't buy anything else--even with the bronzing issue, I still prefer the color over the silver model.

There are some pics in my photo gallery showing the bronzing.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

Geralt said:


> I have the black finish. I haven't had any problems with scratches, but mine has faded. It stays on my car all the time, and the high desert sun here in western Colorado is pretty intense. It has changed to a bronze-y color. I think it still looks okay, but it's enough of a change that it might bother some people. I'm still a big fan of the rack and wouldn't buy anything else--even with the bronzing issue, I still prefer the color over the silver model.
> 
> There are some pics in my photo gallery showing the bronzing.


Cool, thanks. Interesting, but doesn't look bad.


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## 7daysaweek (May 7, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> I think it was because he said it didn't have a conversion kit for his fat bike.


That makes sense. Fat bikes are very inconvenient on the Kuat I have. Had to let most of the air out of the tires and use a big velcro strap for the rear wheel. The 1UP definitely does fat bikes better.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

The way the black arms bronze but not the base is actually really cool looking.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

Levelheadsteve said:


> Looks like a 1UP is probably the way to go, despite the need for a U lock to ensure it from sliding out. The Saris Superclamp looks nice too, but you have to pay an extra $99 for a long wheelbase tray if over 48".


I have both a 1up 1.25 Quik Rack with one add on tray, and a Saris Superclamp 2. Overall in many ways I like the Saris better, and I also got a great deal on it so it was nearly 1/2 the price of the black 1up setup. I previously owned a custom hitch rack that I made using Thule Sidearm roof trays, so basically a T2.

Saying the 1up needs a u-lock to keep it from sliding out is misleading and wrong. When I first got mine it loosened up occasionally due to really bumpy roads, but once I snugged it back down stayed tight. It didn't move or slide at all, and if it did the Velcro strap is sufficient to keep it in place.

My 1up Quik Rack review:

*Pros:* Looks like something I would build (as a MechE), is very low profile when not being used and folds up close to the bumper (both important if leaving the rack on your vehicle all of the time), is pretty easy to install (although the velcro strap adds some hassle), and should last a long time being very well built.
*Cons:* Heavy if you take it on and off the car often, bikes wobble on trays more than other racks, latches for wheel holders can be tricky to release and operate smoothly, hard to tilt down with bikes on it, and it's expensive.

Why I like the Saris Superclamp 2 more than the 1up:
Nearly 10lbs lighter and overall more compact for taking on and off car frequently
Uses a threaded hitch pin so it is impossible to fall out of the receiver while still being wobble free
Bikes do not wobble in trays at all; trays are just as quick to load and likely faster to unload than 1up
Less expensive, although new EX version has upped the price a bit but new features make it more competitive and cover a wider range of bikes.

Really any of the wheel holding hitch racks from 1up, Saris, Kuat, Thule, Yakima, etc are great, it's just a choice of which features are most important for each person.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

JustMtnB44 said:


> I have both a 1up 1.25 Quik Rack with one add on tray, and a Saris Superclamp 2. Overall in many ways I like the Saris better, and I also got a great deal on it so it was nearly 1/2 the price of the black 1up setup. I previously owned a custom hitch rack that I made using Thule Sidearm roof trays, so basically a T2.
> 
> Saying the 1up needs a u-lock to keep it from sliding out is misleading and wrong. When I first got mine it loosened up occasionally due to really bumpy roads, but once I snugged it back down stayed tight. It didn't move or slide at all, and if it did the Velcro strap is sufficient to keep it in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much for the input. I guess if you don't need a U lock to prevent sliding, it's still needed to help prevent theft. I'll have another look at the superclamp.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

It is not still needed to prevent theft. A lock can be placed over the unique hex bolt, blocking access.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

True, but many 1up owners, at least as evidenced here on MTBR, choose to use a U lock instead. I'm guessing it's a two birds, one stone thing. Then no need for the Velcro strap and the hitch bolt lock.


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## whezy (Apr 6, 2017)

Finally got the 1up for the car. The bike seems to wobble a fair bit when driving though. I'm thinking some pipe insulation over the sides of the support arms to fill the small void between the arms and the tires may help. Anyone else try this?









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

whezy said:


> Finally got the 1up for the car. The bike seems to wobble a fair bit when driving though. I'm thinking some pipe insulation over the sides of the support arms to fill the small void between the arms and the tires may help. Anyone else try this?


 Some wobbling is expected because the bike is only held on by the tires. With a fat bike you can expect even more wobbling given its girth. BTW, how is lifting up the fat bike on to the roof after a long ride? I was considering a roof mounted bike rack for my car but I'm afraid I'd end up dropping it trying to lift up my heavy fat bike that high after a ride.


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Most of that motion is rotation around the headset...where the bike is designed to rotate. Should not be a problem as long as its not so much as to have the bikes banging into one another.


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## whezy (Apr 6, 2017)

tonyride1 said:


> Some wobbling is expected because the bike is only held on by the tires. With a fat bike you can expect even more wobbling given its girth. BTW, how is lifting up the fat bike on to the roof after a long ride? I was considering a roof mounted bike rack for my car but I'm afraid I'd end up dropping it trying to lift up my heavy fat bike that high after a ride.


I'll let it wobble as is for a while and see how it plays out then. The car and bike is actually my wife's. She does not seem to have any issue lifting it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

I wonder with a fat bike how much tire pressure would effect the wobble. You might be able to solve with a tire pump.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Metamorphic said:


> I wonder with a fat bike how much tire pressure would effect the wobble. You might be able to solve with a tire pump.


I don't know about others but I run 7-8 psi in my fat bike tires. Although it does wobble a bit in the rack while driving I don't think it wobbles enough to justify pumping more air in the tires. It would be really annoying to have to keep lowering the pressure after I take the bike off the rack to ride and then have to pump them back up again after the ride before putting the bike on the rack. I just don't think the wobble is an issue because it's just the tires. No part of the rack touches the frame, fork, or wheels. Only rubber to rack contact. So scraping or rubbing at all.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Ignore the wobble. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## TheGweed (Jan 30, 2010)

Silentfoe said:


> Ignore the wobble.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Agreed. I'm OCD about my car and my bike...and I could not be more happy with the 1Up.

I should say I thought I was OCD...until reading some of the stuff in this thread.


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## fgiraffe (Aug 30, 2004)

007 said:


> I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.


Did you ever sort this out? I already have a 1Up, and I'm looking at the Torklift receiver for my next car (Crosstrek) but I'm little concerned at how short the receiver is.

FWIW I had zero play with the 1Up with my last car's receiver over 4 years, with most of that time with the rack on the car.


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

I have had my 1up (single unilt; 2") on the ecohitch for about 4 months now. Has no play. Haven't had to tighten it. Took it off and put it on F 150 for a beach trip and so far good to go with F150 as well. 

Ecohitch and 1up very pleased with so far.


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## OCBion (Mar 12, 2017)

Anyone using a 1up with a Class 1 Draw-tite or hidden hitch? It seems that these hitches have a "stop tab" welded indention on the receiver (to prevent Class 2 products being used one the Class 1 hitch as a safety precaution). How do you work around this because the expander ball will not slide into the receiver and meet the 2" minimum insertion for the expander ball.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

OCBion said:


> Anyone using a 1up with a Class 1 Draw-tite or hidden hitch? It seems that these hitches have a "stop tab" welded indention on the receiver (to prevent Class 2 products being used one the Class 1 hitch as a safety precaution). How do you work around this because the expander ball will not slide into the receiver and meet the 2" minimum insertion for the expander ball.


I have an invisi-hitch (Execuhitch) on my BMW 328 wagon and it works fine. Mine my be different and the receiver is specifically marked as not suitable for towing and only for a bike rack. It's really a nice combination.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

I posted in his thread way back at the beginning. Ive had my 1Up for years and thousands of miles now. I swap it between my Yukon and my MDX frequently. Ive never replaced any parts, and it works great. That is all. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## bitflogger (Jan 12, 2004)

Scott In MD said:


> I posted in his thread way back at the beginning. Ive had my 1Up for years and thousands of miles now. I swap it between my Yukon and my MDX frequently. Ive never replaced any parts, and it works great. That is all.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What he said. This week I realized 2012-2017 with winter use has it in fine shape. It has worked and aged well like no other rack I've had while also getting far more use.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

bitflogger said:


> What he said. This week I realized 2012-2017 with winter use has it in fine shape. It has worked and aged well like no other rack I've had while also getting far more use.


Same dates for me. Bought mine in mid-2012 and I leave it on year-round. I've added fatbike spacers, but other than that I haven't changed a thing.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

evasive said:


> Same dates for me. Bought mine in mid-2012 and I leave it on year-round. I've added fatbike spacers, but other than that I haven't changed a thing.


Ditto. fat bike spacers, on my car year round.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

I've not seen one close up, and I'm wondering how secure a bike is on this rack system. Seeing how the bike is held upright by two arms at each wheel, is there any back and forth or side to side movement? 

Could someone post a pic of their rack folded up that shows the distance from bumper to tray?

Btw, why is the black rack so much more expensive? 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

djork said:


> I've not seen one close up, and I'm wondering how secure a bike is on this rack system. Seeing how the bike is held upright by two arms at each wheel, is there any back and forth or side to side movement?
> 
> Could someone post a pic of their rack folded up that shows the distance from bumper to tray?


 When you ask if there are any back and forth, side to side movements did you mean with respect to the bike or to the car? With respect to the car there are some back and forth movement as expected since the only parts of the bike that the rack touches are the tires which is good since there won't be any rubbing, scratching, or scraping of the frame or wheels. There are no side to side movements. As for the distance from the folded try to the bumper, that varies depending on the vehicle and the receiver hitch. Different vehicles have different bumpers and different hitches stick out from the rear differently so it's hard to say how much gap you can expect. Best thing to do is ask people in this forum if they have the same make, model, and year vehicle as you and go from there.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

tonyride1 said:


> When you ask if there are any back and forth, side to side movements did you mean with respect to the bike or to the car? With respect to the car there are some back and forth movement as expected since the only parts of the bike that the rack touches are the tires which is good since there won't be any rubbing, scratching, or scraping of the frame or wheels. There are no side to side movements. As for the distance from the folded try to the bumper, that varies depending on the vehicle and the receiver hitch. Different vehicles have different bumpers and different hitches stick out from the rear differently so it's hard to say how much gap you can expect. Best thing to do is ask people in this forum if they have the same make, model, and year vehicle as you and go from there.


Thanks for the info. Regarding movement, I was thinking more of how the bike might move while seated on the rack, seeing how only the two "universal" fit arms secure the bike with no aid of straps or arm hook on frame to prevent sway.

I was watching some videos on YouTube about this rack, and I'm now leaning more on purchasing one. I especially like the low profile when folded and how it hugs the bumper compared to other racks. What is the official weight for single tray?

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

djork said:


> Thanks for the info. Regarding movement, I was thinking more of how the bike might move while seated on the rack, seeing how only the two "universal" fit arms secure the bike with no aid of straps or arm hook on frame to prevent sway.
> 
> I was watching some videos on YouTube about this rack, and I'm now leaning more on purchasing one. I especially like the low profile when folded and how it hugs the bumper compared to other racks. What is the official weight for single tray?
> 
> Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


I had the same concerns. I bought the rack and it works perfectly. Very little movement of the bike (Pivot Switchblade 29er). I went ahead and bought two wheel locks and a hitch lock at the same time so they'd all be keyed the same. They sent two keys for each lock meaning I have six keys available, so no worries about replacements. They also include two of the special hex wrenches so you have a spare available.

They claim the black is more expensive to produce, so they charge more. I bought the black and it looks great. I've only used the rack a few times for a few hundred miles total, but zero issues so far. I'm very happy with it.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Just curious for all you 1Uppers....

With the SS hardware....for the times where you've needed to remove/adjust something, has it been pretty painlessly everytime. I shudder when I think of SS cold welded screws/bolts.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mobiledynamics said:


> Just curious for all you 1Uppers....
> 
> With the SS hardware....for the times where you've needed to remove/adjust something, has it been pretty painlessly everytime. I shudder when I think of SS cold welded screws/bolts.


It's been problem free for me every time.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Normally I only have 1 bike on my rack, but when I put two on, it sure blocks the taillights. Get me worrying since more people on the roads aren't paying attention.

I am going to add a set of LED taillights (8" strips made for motorcycles) to each side, and wire a pigtail in that I can plug into my trailer wiring plug.

Will update once parts are in.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

When you add MORE than 1 tray to the rack, is it just a tray add add on or does the hinge release someone get's *extended* to the front of the tray. aka, I'm looking/comparing it to the T2 Pro XT


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

mobiledynamics said:


> When you add MORE than 1 tray to the rack, is it just a tray add add on or does the hinge release someone get's *extended* to the front of the tray. aka, I'm looking/comparing it to the T2 Pro XT


It's just a tray add on. If you look at the tray on the rack you'll see 2 bolts. Those loosen for the add on try to slide in to. Then you tighten the bolts to secure it. Those bolts use the same keyed hex wrench that secures the rack to the receiver hitch. No need to remove the rack to add another tray.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Sorry, if I was not clear. I'm aware the tray add on is easy to install/remove.
I was talking about the rack Pivot release

If I add 1 or 2 extra trays, does the pivot release handle/mechanisim get extended *up front*, or will it just remain on the bottom, right where the 1st tray is


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

mobiledynamics said:


> Sorry, if I was not clear. I'm aware the tray add on is easy to install/remove.
> I was talking about the rack Pivot release
> 
> If I add 1 or 2 extra trays, does the pivot release handle/mechanisim get extended *up front*, or will it just remain on the bottom, right where the 1st tray is


No that part of the track does not get moved/changed/extended.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Right, the release remains at the at the main rack but there are a couple of hacks that people did to extend the release by using cables.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.















I'll get better pictures too


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Shark said:


> Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.
> 
> View attachment 1146288
> View attachment 1146289


Awesome.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

slick


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Shark said:


> Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.
> 
> View attachment 1146288
> View attachment 1146289
> ...


VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

Couple questions....

Are the lights easily relocated as you add and remove trays? 
Are they running lights only, running and brakes, or the whole shebang with blinkers too? 
Source for the light bars?


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

Mtbr needs a dedicated 1up Quikrack forum, dedicated solely to the glory that is 1UP, USA. Sub forums can include:

Buyers remorse 
Buyers glory, 
1.25", 2", 
Rack security, 
Rack Enve

Feel free to brainstorm...🙃


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Can we TALK about the BLACK Finish ?
Everyone seems to consensually agree it changes color...

I'm familiar with powdercoated items and it should not fade/change due to uv exposure.
Dunno? Anyone have a black rack in the last 2-3 years. Hopefully, dunno <> they have switched to a better powdercoater ?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

mobiledynamics said:


> Can we TALK about the BLACK Finish ?
> Everyone seems to consensually agree it changes color...
> 
> I'm familiar with powdercoated items and it should not fade/change due to uv exposure.
> Dunno? Anyone have a black rack in the last 2-3 years. Hopefully, dunno <> they have switched to a better powdercoater ?


The trays and arms are alu. Not powdercoated. They would have an ano finish, which does fade from uv exposure. The steel bits would be powdercoated.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Harold said:


> The trays and arms are alu. Not powdercoated. They would have an ano finish, which does fade from uv exposure. The steel bits would be powdercoated.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


The original racks were anodized. To cut cost they started to powder coat the racks for both gray and black. Many people have complained about the power coating either fading or chipping. I don't know if they went back to anodizing.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

tonyride1 said:


> The original racks were anodized. To cut cost they started to powder coat the racks for both gray and black. Many people have complained about the power coating either fading or chipping. I don't know if they went back to anodizing.


I have a couple gray roof trays. Def not powder coated. Look and feel like raw alu to me.

The steel parts are a different story altogether.

Now my kuat rack is mostly powder coated gray but it has a few orange ano bits. But it is also mostly steel.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

So which ones is it. Is their alum raw and clearcoated. Or just raw. Or PC. I suppose a phone call to 1up on Monday will clarify.

I would prefer PC to anodized aluminum anyday. At the end of the end, it's up to the prep/pc applicator on whether it stands the test of time.


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## curran.crawford (Jul 15, 2017)

Trying to figure out if the 1up will work with my Ford Transit. Anyone have both and can comment/post pics? Particularly clearance on the bottom of the doors when getting in the back, and how far from hitch receiver face to rack tray when folded up (I've got a ladder on the door I'm trying to figure out if it will clear). Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## GSJ1973 (May 8, 2011)

mobiledynamics said:


> So which ones is it. Is their alum raw and clearcoated. Or just raw. Or PC. I suppose a phone call to 1up on Monday will clarify.
> 
> I would prefer PC to anodized aluminum anyday. At the end of the end, it's up to the prep/pc applicator on whether it stands the test of time.


The aluminum trays are anodized, and the black anodized will fade to a purplish color over time as it is exposed to the sun. If you think this might bother you, get the raw aluminum finish.


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Straight from the horses mouth per se.
Called up 1UP.

All the trays, whether it be silver or black, are PC'ed.
ALL the other parts are anodized. There is no raw ~alum~ finish. Black and silver are both anodized on all other parts except for the trays.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

MDRex said:


> Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.
> 
> View attachment 1147170
> 
> ...


 Very Clever.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Kindorf for the win.
What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

MDRex said:


> Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.
> 
> View attachment 1147170
> 
> ...


Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?

https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html


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## MDRex (Jun 3, 2017)

mobiledynamics said:


> Kindorf for the win.
> What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?


The flat 90s on the side are to prevent the superstrut from expanding when I tighten the ball on the rack. This is needed because Superstrut is open on one side.



John said:


> Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?
> 
> https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html


Because I had all that stuff sitting around doing nothing for the past 4 years, so it was free. Figured time to use it for something and I only had to cut the one horizontal piece a little shorter. All I bought were 4 3.5" bolts to mount it to the wall, which cost about $2. It's so strong that I can hang from it. Plus I like building things.


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## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

briantortilla said:


> I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.


If you don't need 1 1/4", I'd definitely go with one of the 2" models. 1 1/4" is fine (that's what I have), but since the width is small, the rotational force on the 1 1/4" bar is huge if you get any side-to-side movement of the car. That exaggerates any play in the interfaces between the hitch, adapter, and vehicle. I think 2" is recommended for off-road use, but they don't prohibit it with 1 1/4". 2" should be more stable and stronger.

If you're installing a hitch on your car for the first time, go with 2" no matter what kind of rack you plan on getting. I had a cheap 1 1/4" hitch on a Honda Civic, and the hitch itself bent with three bikes on it, and it was not very stable at all. Flex is not a problem with the 1 1/4" rack with 2" (aluminum) adapter in a 2" hitch on my SUV, but there is a little flex. I imagine the 2" version would flex less since it fills up the hitch receiver better.

If you want the ability to use just one bike, you could get the 1-tray 2" Super Duty rack. There is absolutely zero flex between the add-ons that I can see, so using two trays screwed together vs. two fixed trays on the heavy duty rack won't matter at all. The only difference seems to be the ability to carry one more bike with the two fixed trays (four bikes total). 
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-super-duty-single-bike-rack/


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## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

Thanks for the awesome reply. Ill probably end up going with the heavy duty 2 bike. I like the idea of just carrying one bike, but in reality, i don't think it it worth the extra cost for the super duty.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I had the same question and talked to 1Up by phone (on this topic and a couple others). They said the 1 1/4 would be fine and plenty strong, so that's what I bought, to go with a 2"Ecohitch. Unfortunately I can't offer any experience as I have not done the install yet. As you know there are pros and cons to each choice.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Metamorphic said:


> VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.
> 
> Couple questions....
> 
> ...


Sorry for the delay, just got back from a bike trip....

The lights I used came with double sided tape to stick on, so not easily removable. But they are cheap, so if you used a trailer wire splitter, you could wire the extensions with their own.
They do all, running, brake, and blinkers. The lights themselves actually have amber for blinkers, but I didn't wire those, since I used a pair of them, and a 4pin connector on my Jeep. I used the ground and running (tied to both lights), then left blinker to left brake light, and right blinker to right brake light. That way they work just like a trailer.

I got lights from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4N9H50/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And also hitch wiring.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V5B0G0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Cool. Thanks. 

I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.


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## JimT (Jul 28, 2017)

Ready to buy the HD Double rack plus 2 add-ons to carry 4 bikes. However, I would like to confirm a couple things before I do:

1) I drive a 2015 Toyota Sienna with a Curt 2" hitch which is only 11" or so off the ground. Does the rack fold down enough with the four bikes loaded to allow the rear door to open fully ? Note: I currently have a 10" riser on my hitch for my Thule hanging style rack to keep the bike wheels from hitting the ground when loaded without the top tube adapter and can keep using that if needed.

2) I have standard Blackburn rear racks on the bikes that extend about 6" past the center-line of the rear axle. Are the arms able to lock on without hitting the racks?


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly. 

2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Metamorphic said:


> Cool. Thanks.
> 
> I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.


Keep us posted, like to see the results.


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

eonicks said:


> 1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly.
> 
> 2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.


HELP is on the way.
I was in the process of ordering parts for a tilt handle mod on a silver 2" Super duty double. Had my design and parts all figured out, just needed to confirm that 1 Up would sell me the tilt handle release bar and the cross member above that. I didn't want to drill into my rack and void my warranty if my mod didn't work.

I spoke to Rob and told him what I needed and he said it would be no problem providing the parts. "Oh, by the way, what do you have going on?" I told him I needed a tilt release handle at the back of the rack and that I was going to do a modification if I could get the release handle and cross member.

Rob told me, if I could wait " a couple of weeks " they, 1 Up , will be releasing a tilt release handle mod. Rob didn't go into any design details or pricing but, " make sure we have your email on file and we'll notify you when available".

So, hold off on the paracord and PVC mods and see what 1 Up comes up with.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi folks,

I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

Lev said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!


I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.


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## Lev (Oct 12, 2004)

m85476585 said:


> I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
> The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.
> 
> I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.


You are the man. Thanks so much


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

m85476585 said:


> I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
> The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.
> 
> I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.


Sounds about right, nothing is metric on these. You can double check by emailing or calling them on the phone. I think the toolkit should include the allen key, you could measure that to double check.

Hadn't thought about the loctite, might be a good idea.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

Lev said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!


You can e-mail 1up. They might even send you replacement for free if you ask.
Last time I asked about bolt specs, they responded next day.


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## oheckler (Jan 26, 2008)

I was wondering if anyone can tell me how well the black holds up? Does it scratch easy? How does it look after a couple years of use. 
I'm sorry if this topic has already been covered, I haven't had time to read through the entire thread. 

Thanks


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

The tray is powdercoated but the rest of it is anodized. Anodized will not weather well in UV. It's it's garage kept and just put for strorage, that's different in *color change wear*. YMMV


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Looking at a 1Up used. Any key talking points to check out / confirm ?


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## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

VanillaEps said:


> I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......


No, you don't "need" to purchase anything but you can choose to do so to be on the safe side. My rack has never loosened up in tens of thousands of miles I've driven with it on my car.


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## VanillaEps (Aug 24, 2010)

Secured as in security - theft prevention - not fitment on the vehicle.

I don't know why people feel the need to be so defensive. If you got one, great - enjoy it. My question or comment isn't meant to question your decision in buying and using one. It's just a question.

I just ordered one and I'm sure I'll be happy with it. It's perfect for the ride straight to the trailhead and back. If I feel the need to stop somewhere quick - I can always use a cable lock for peace of mind.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Oheckler or any 1Uppers- Any POV on why 1UP just PC's the tray and not the remainder of the black unit. Black just turns - black/purplish - think egg plantish - in UV>


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Anyone ever have trouble with their swing arms not closing smoothly?

On my quick rack add on I can only close one of the arms 1 ratcheting notch at a time. It gets stuck, and I have to give it a moment before I can close it another notch. I think maybe the spring on the arm isn't doing it's job.

I emailed 1Up about it, I'm sure they'll get me sorted, but has anyone else had this happen? If so, how did you get it fixed?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Silentfoe said:


> Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Tried it, didn't make a difference. I'll see what 1Up suggests and report back. Thanks.


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.

that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

My 1UP is one of the best things I've ever owned. But I've always thought that a $500 rack needs a better integrated locking system. (If you think that makes me a hater then I think you're fooling yourself). Back in the day I never worried about somebody stealing my rack, because they were so rare (therefore the machined hex wrench was also uncommon) and because of the replacement warranty, if stolen. I used a long shackle Master lock through the drilled holes in the wheel bars to lock my bike to the rack when traveling, but I never worried about anyone stealing the bikes with the rack. Not anymore. Now that I see a lot more 1UP's; and the replacement warranty is no longer valid, I've locked my 1UP to my truck with a small U-lock and I use a cable to lock my bikes to the rack. I read a statistic that half of cyclist have had a bike stolen. I don't know. Local hero Eric Marcotte had his bike stolen today (not off a 1UP rack, but during the middle of a ride!) so I guess we all have to be careful. I'm interested in seeing what 1UP's integrated locking solution is. I bet there's one on the way. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.







As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

1up does sell locks that go through the wheel locks. If you buy a bunch at one time, they come with the same key. I ulock my rack and then use the pin locks on the bikes. Works really well.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

mbmtb said:


> lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.
> 
> that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.


I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

a63vette said:


> Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I seriously hope that's a huge joke on me 

I've had mine for 14k on a Suby almost always and on a f150 for a few trips of 350 plus miles each way. I don't say it's not an issue as I believe others reports. But I have 2 of these guys and I've never had 1 even come a little loose. I check but I worry more about the bike on the rack then the hitch loosening.


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## Mike2009 (Jul 17, 2009)

Best purchase you have ever made!


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

formula4speed said:


> I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.


I have no idea what the deal is, I've seen some come from the factory which work poorly and some which work great. May have something to do with the finish on the two parts being randomly off. But the solution I described will fix it, as that's the surface which it's riding on.

A friend figured this out. Then he used silicon spray lube, which worked for about a month then turned into a sticky mess.

A dry chain lube works great--it's extremely light. I'd guess rubbing a candle or other paraffin type thing works too. It lasts a very very long time.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

Vtbikologist said:


> I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.
> View attachment 1151896
> 
> As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.


I actually might do this as well. I have the hitch extender, and the locking bolt that goes though that, but this is a good second measure, and I have tons of U locks laying around


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

No matter what system you use to lock your bike to the rack, I still wouldn't feel confident leaving a bike unattended on a rack because there are so many expensive parts that can easily be removed very quickly. Maybe they won't get the wheels, but the seat, seat post, stem, bars, pedals, etc. can be stripped in seconds. I get that people want to go into a store or restaurant for a bit, but I would never let my bike/rack/vehicle out of my sight and be more than a few seconds away if I were to go into a place. Just the simply truth of living in today's society. Otherwise expect to lose some or all of the bike.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Best plan is to not leave it out of site. Nowadays thieves with battery powered sawzall or grinder could just cut the aluminum arms like butter. Lock or not. I am paranoid.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

At some point, I did read every single post in this thread....

Has there been a incident where the rack came loose ?

While I wait for my 1Up to be shipped and delivered, I suppose there is a rhyme/reason on why there is not hitch pin hole ? Granted, I don't why why you just don't check the tightness of the built in mechanism every now and then.

It's like anything in car ownership. Then again, I probably visually check my tires on the car about every ~other~ time I get in the car, so I suppose it's only as good as the [email protected]


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Yes, posts on here about rack sliding. On recent trip I noticed mine having slid almost out entirely while loaded with two bikes! Never will have it not secured.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Hmmm...going to have to re-read the old threads. 
Is it because the nut/retaining ball has backed itself out - due to not occasionally checking it to see if it's torqued proper. Theoretically, it should have not back itself out if torqued down.

And or, has there been reported issues of it backing out, after a single day trip in which it was installed/tighted the day prior/same day


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..

When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....

Black turns to a darkish eggplant within a year. The vid linked, he must have his rack on 24/7....


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## Plim (Dec 8, 2004)

Scott In MD said:


> After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."

I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.

The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.


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## sbermhb (Aug 30, 2004)

I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

Disregard


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

sbermhb said:


> I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?


The 1.25" bar obviously isn't as strong, but also note the locking plate is smaller. The emphasis for the single quick rack was ease of use and light weight (for such a stout rack).


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Here's how I do it for both security and safety. The U-Lock is short enough where if the rack loosens up it can't slide out enough to drop out of the hitch. As you can see I have a piece of duct tape on the shaft to mark how far it insert without getting too close to the car when bike is on the rack and I wrapped a piece of old inner tube along the "U" to keep it from rattling and marking up the rack.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

Plim said:


> In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."
> 
> I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.
> 
> The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.


Mine has come lose a few times on rough dirt roads (4WD roads). The first time the internal pin that pushes the ball became dented and caused all kinds of problems (the rack got stuck in my hitch, and it was a huge pain to get it off). They updated the design with a case-hardened pin, so it shouldn't do that again.

On a recent trip my 1 1/4" rack in a 2" hitch came loose a few times with three bikes. The 1 1/4 - 2" adapter extrusion kept coming loose when the rack did, so I suspect not having Loctite on the screw was part of the problem. I had to tighten the rack several times in a few miles. I haven't pulled the pin out yet to see if it deformed, but I plan to at some point.

I suspect the 2" version is better for off-road driving since there's no adapter to come loose, and since there is a larger contact area (not just the adapter). I plan to make a metal shim to take up most of the extra space in the hitch to see if that helps, so that it's mostly relying on large metal contact area to keep it from moving rather than just relying on the ball. There's a 1/16" gap between the rack and the hitch when it's installed on my SUV.

I've never seen the screw back out, and I've never seen it loosen even a little on pavement. I usually tighten it once after a little driving after I first install it, then it doesn't need tightening again.


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## m85476585 (Jun 7, 2007)

sbermhb said:


> I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?


They used to allow 4 trays on the 1 1/4" rack, but now they don't. They also don't allow 4 trays with the single bike 2" super duty base rack. They must have a reason, and the only difference I can see between what you have and the 2" heavy duty 2 tray rack is that there is no joint between tray 1 and tray 2 on the 2" 2-tray rack.

I've never seen any movement at the joint between the trays with 3 bikes, but there is a large amount of force on those screws as you add more bikes.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

mobiledynamics said:


> OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
> While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..
> 
> When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....
> ...


Thanks for the link. Makes me glad I didn't get the black. Can't wait to try out my 1up tonight. Just got it yesterday.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Got my 1upper today as well. I'm not sure how many 1uppers are sold volume wise , but it's night and day, now that I see it, in terms of build quality. For the OCD/golden eyes, mine did have a rub or two on the silver anodized finish here and there...

The screws on the lever arm *fatbike cones retrofit* were a bear to remove. Was using regular hex keys and then Allen handled driver. I was scared I was either going to shear off the head or strip the screw. It was not budging one bit. I actually thought it was either loctited or SS cold weld Switched up to a 1/4 ratchet and but and strangely enough, the screws came out with not much force


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## grizwold (Aug 28, 2009)

mobiledynamics said:


> Got my 1upper today as well. I'm not sure how many 1uppers are sold volume wise , but it's night and day, now that I see it, in terms of build quality. For the OCD/golden eyes, mine did have a rub or two on the silver anodized finish here and there...
> 
> The screws on the lever arm *fatbike cones retrofit* were a bear to remove. Was using regular hex keys and then Allen handled driver. I was scared I was either going to shear off the head or strip the screw. It was not budging one bit. I actually thought it was either loctited or SS cold weld Switched up to a 1/4 ratchet and but and strangely enough, the screws came out with not much force


I just completely stripped those very bolts. Got 2 out and the other 2 rounded off so fast. Even got an extractor tool and my drill couldn't budge them either. Needless to say, I can't get the fat bike kit on one side so I'll be requesting a replacement. Not really happy about but hopefully 1up will replace it.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Don't see why they should replace it...I would just drill it out and retap it.


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## grizwold (Aug 28, 2009)

I'm at least going to see what they say. In my opinion the stripped bolts were no fault of my own. We can't be the only 2 people who have experienced how tight those things are in there. I've tried just about everything I can think of to get them out, I shouldn't have to drill and retap the holes. 


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## grizwold (Aug 28, 2009)

Never mind, happy to say I got them out. Had to use a dremel and a cutoff wheel to slot the heads. Used a large screwdriver to finally get them out. 


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Those that mentioned the rack coming loose after driving on rough dirt roads, question for you.
When you initially tighten it, do you lift the rack you are tightening it?
I find there is a good 1/2 turn on the securing bolt after I lift it.

I could see if you simply tighten it, without lifting, and driving on a bumpy road, how it might come loose.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

*Hold my beer*

Liking the new rack so far.


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## Nomad Ninja (Sep 2, 2007)

OK I have a request for all 1up USA owners that have the following

2010 Subaru Outback (or newer)

with a

DRAW TITE Class III Hitch
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Subaru/Outback+Wagon/2012/75673.html?vehicleid=2012301542

or

Curt Class III Hitch
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Subaru/Outback+Wagon/2012/13390.html?vehicleid=2012301541

If you you owners can help me by snapping a pick of how far the bike rack goes in the hitch that would be super helpful.

Thank you in advance for your consideration / help.


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## Wyo-Mig (Apr 24, 2012)

Anyone have any experience using a 1up (single quick rack 1 1/4" to 2") with a bumper mount hitch - more specifically the Reese Towmaster step bumper hitch model# 81378)?
I have a old 2wd pickup I'd like to add a hitch to to use my rack with (bed to be used by the dog -- w/ a camper shell of course!). 
I checked one out and it's definitely shorter (by approx. 1-1.5") than the hitch on my Yukon. 
Also, the reese bumper mount hitch has no 'back' on it - meaning the rack can be inserted and not hit any stop for installation.

Any advice or real-world experience would be appreciated!

Miguel


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

m85476585 said:


> They used to allow 4 trays on the 1 1/4" rack, but now they don't. They also don't allow 4 trays with the single bike 2" super duty base rack. They must have a reason, and the only difference I can see between what you have and the 2" heavy duty 2 tray rack is that there is no joint between tray 1 and tray 2 on the 2" 2-tray rack.
> 
> I've never seen any movement at the joint between the trays with 3 bikes, but there is a large amount of force on those screws as you add more bikes.


I think you are good with 4 road bikes on a 1-1/4" single quick rack setup, but as more of us have both road and trail bikes in our stables, they probably had to react to increasing warranty claims. Probably more of a product image issue than warranty coverage. If Joe Bob is too stupid to remember that he can't mount four MTB's with his setup, he'll probably ***** to all of his friends about how his 1UP broke, and the company didn't honor their warranty. Better to direct Joe Bob to getting that double rack right off the bat.

You are correct on the stress on those bolts. They could build a Triple rack (if the receiver weld is strong enough) and let you add two add-on's, but I doubt we'll ever see that as the production cost would probably be ridiculous.

That and the torque of a rack that long and that heavy would be intense. Seems all of the '5' and '6' bike racks out there are the top tube mount type, and they aren't long enough to properly space bikes to prevent scratches.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Wyo-Mig said:


> Also, the reese bumper mount hitch has no 'back' on it - meaning the rack can be inserted and not hit any stop for installation.


You can put a "hitch bar stop" on the rack if you like:

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/hitch-bar-stop/


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

New 1Up tilt release handle gets delivered today. I'm out of town but will post pics an review next week. Cost is $69


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

It looks like all the quibbling we've done about little issue is moot. Complete redesign for 2017 is up on their site now. It looks pretty great, especially the new hitch engagement.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

WOW - there are some neat new features in the redesign for sure. not sure i could justify replacing my perfectly good and working V1 - but i do like the ease of add-ons, trigger mech for folding/pivoting etc... i only feel the new pivot release (retro fittable) is what will may my regular use of the rack even better. If you are in market for a new rack tho - no doubt this is the one.


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

Made an awesome rack even better. Much respect to 1UP USA for their design ingenuity. They really have made an awesome product!


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## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

I just saw the add for the new re-engineered rack on 1upusa.com. The design we all know and own is on 1up-usa.com

Now 1upusa.com has a new re-designed rack but it is not yet available. Looks to be the original inventor of the Quick Rack. Company addresses are the next town over. Can someone explain?


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

I like the features- but don't like that they cheapened the construction. The welds are my favorite part of mine! (I maybe alone in finding joy in the craftsmanship of a bike rack lol)


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## Oktavius (Nov 8, 2006)

Steve_MTB_22 said:


> I just saw the add for the new re-engineered rack on 1upusa.com. The design we all know and own is on 1up-usa.com
> 
> Now 1upusa.com has a new re-designed rack but it is not yet available. Looks to be the original inventor of the Quick Rack. Company addresses are the next town over. Can someone explain?


Really curious about this too. Not only is the physical address different, but the email and phone number on the new website is different as well. Are both websites for the same company or was there some sort of division?


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## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

new features look better.....especially the hitch pin combined with tightening mechanism


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

Looks like possiblly a non compete ended? 

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## Oktavius (Nov 8, 2006)

bogeydog said:


> Looks like possiblly a non compete ended?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Wondering if it is something like that. Creation of a similar but different product. But then why would they use the same business name?


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I have seen this when a company goes under then reopens?
Bolt together stuff is cheaper to manufacture. I like my welded rack.
I like the hitch pin lock but it makes it not as adjustable. I don't like the quick release for the arms. My rack fits my or my wifes bike as it is, 26,27.5,29. I could see this as a benefit if you have kids but it would just be another thing that I would have to keep a eye on. The add on quick connect is very slick though.


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## Oktavius (Nov 8, 2006)

rlee said:


> I have seen this when a company goes under then reopens?
> Bolt together stuff is cheaper to manufacture. I like my welded rack.
> I like the hitch pin lock but it makes it not as adjustable. I don't like the quick release for the arms. My rack fits my or my wifes bike as it is, 26,27.5,29. I could see this as a benefit if you have kids but it would just be another thing that I would have to keep a eye on. The add on quick connect is very slick though.


Welding is nice. Although the new design will save me $60 for the 1.25" rack plus an add-on. Plus the new racks come with the rack locks.

Not sure what the plans are for the actual bike locks since 1UP's previous design used lock pins going through the arm holes. The slots in the arms don't look large enough for the locks and wouldn't want them bouncing in the slots. Probably have to resort to a separate cable lock.


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## burgrat (Mar 2, 2010)

Are the new add-ons compatible with the older racks? I have a 1 bike 1.25" black rack and want to purchase 1 bike add on. 

Looks like they revamped the whole site. Hope this is all a good thing.


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## k2rider1964 (Apr 29, 2010)

Oktavius said:


> Really curious about this too. Not only is the physical address different, but the email and phone number on the new website is different as well. Are both websites for the same company or was there some sort of division?


Looking at the websites, I believe the "new" model is a rip-off copy. It doesn't look like it's made as well and they are going out of their way to point out the "issues" of the original. Some of their fixes look pretty cheesy to me.


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## k2rider1964 (Apr 29, 2010)

Oktavius said:


> Wondering if it is something like that. Creation of a similar but different product. But then why would they use the same business name?


To confuse customers...


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## Oktavius (Nov 8, 2006)

k2rider1964 said:


> To confuse customers...


Might not be trying to confuse customers. Didn't 1UP USA change their website recently, including URL? The stickers on the original rack does not have a hyphen in the URL. Still lots of questions to be answered but don't think this is a nefarious clone we are looking at. Or maybe someone else bought the old URL...


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

evasive said:


> It looks like all the quibbling we've done about little issue is moot. Complete redesign for 2017 is up on their site now. It looks pretty great, especially the new hitch engagement.


Hey man, do you remember back in June when I said, "1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch?" Several people promptly lost their **** and were complete pricks about it. You were one of only a few who agreed people were overreacting to my suggestion.

So what exactly does 1up say about the new rack? Hmm, let's check their website:

*"*After 8 years the 1up USA Quik-Rack has been completely *redesigned* and improved with great features. The anti-wobble Hitch System, with hand crank and *lock*, keeps the 1up USA Quik-Rack secure in the receiver.*"*

Brilliant.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

k2rider1964 said:


> Looking at the websites, I believe the "new" model is a rip-off copy. It doesn't look like it's made as well and they are going out of their way to point out the "issues" of the original. Some of their fixes look pretty cheesy to me.


It is odd that they tear apart their old product rather than just emphasize the new features -

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## 007 (Jun 16, 2005)

I can almost guarantee that these are NOT from the same company, but a spin-off from ether a very dumb competitor or a disgruntled employee looking to embroil their former employer in a lawsuit. Either way, I'd not be ordering from the "new" company, that's for sure. You're likely to end up with a 2nd rate product without any long term support. And as someone previously mentioned, the only real improvement in my opinion is the hitch pin.

Unrelated, but I ran into a situation for the first time that I knew was a problem with the 1UP design, but had never encountered personally. I had a flat yesterday and no way to repair it. The 1UP (and related designs) don't work well with a flat tire. I happened to have a giant sheet of paper that I waded up and stuffed between the roller and the flat tire to add tension and it worked okay, but this would not have been good for more than the few miles to home. Any ideas?


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I ran into the same problem, a flat and no spare. I secured the bike as normal the used electrical (vinyl) tape to tape the wheels to the arms. I never go anywhere without e-tape in my vehicle, it is tough and doesn't tend to leave glue like duct tape.


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## Oktavius (Nov 8, 2006)

rlee said:


> I ran into the same problem, a flat and no spare. I secured the bike as normal the used electrical (vinyl) tape to tape the wheels to the arms. I never go anywhere without e-tape in my vehicle, it is tough and doesn't tend to leave glue like duct tape.


There are residue free duct tapes. I have a roll of this stuff and have used it for frame protection. Comes off without residue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0G86VA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LvfRzbHDDXRE4


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## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

Here are some pics of my new heavy duty rack on my Mazda 3. I wasn't really a fan of the u-lock security option, so I got a "weather proof" padlock from a local locksmith and had him install a 3"shackle. A cable fits nicely in the shackle giving me a one key solution. I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup. As a plus, my hatch clears the rack when it is folded in the fully up stowed position making access to the back really easy!! Loving it so far.


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

briantortilla said:


> I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup.


Your Velcro strap isn't a backup. With your setup, the strap is the only thing preventing the rack from separating from the car should the locking ball loosen up and allow the rack to back out of the hitch.

Those of us that went with the Ulock did so for theft prevention and because we wanted something more than Velcro keeping the rack attached to the car in the event of the locking ball failing. Otherwise, I think you have a nice setup.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Regarding the new design - I am a little pissed that I just bought the old design, but after looking at the new one, aside from the tilt feature and the ease of adding multiple add-ons (which I don't plan on doing), I'm glad I have the old welded design.

The QR feature is nice if you deal with 20" bikes, I usually don't (QR hardware can probably be figured out for the old design as well). The locking pin is also nice, but as someone else said above - then you are limited to where you can place your rack in the receiver. The cost savings would be nice, but not a huge deal when you're talking about a lifetime rack.

The tilt feature is really nice though. I wonder if they will offer a retrofit kit for the older racks.


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## Futahaguro (Sep 6, 2017)

*Maybe some insight into the confusion.*

Since this is the only link that has some comments about the confusion I thought I would register to add some insight. I am in no way affiliated with them, I only found this when researching the rack I want to buy. The 1up-usa website obviously has all of the products but it was just created in 2016 and has Robbie Lange listed as the contact. The 1upusa website is terrible and obviously has no way or ordering things nor does anyone actually answer the phone number listed and it is listed as being owned by a Cal Phillips since 2000. I asked 1up-usa about this confusion and they immediately got back to me via an e-mail as well as answered my call when I called to clarify. They say it is a fake and that 1up-usa is the official site to order products. I dug a little further and found this interesting article that sends you down the road of a previous comment about a disgruntled worker, or in this case the disgruntled inventor. Dickeyville bike rack business on a roll | Tri-state News | telegraphherald.com


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Futahaguro said:


> Since this is the only link that has some comments about the confusion I thought I would register to add some insight. I am in no way affiliated with them, I only found this when researching the rack I want to buy. The 1up-usa website obviously has all of the products but it was just created in 2016 and has Robbie Lange listed as the contact. The 1upusa website is terrible and obviously has no way or ordering things nor does anyone actually answer the phone number listed and it is listed as being owned by a Cal Phillips since 2000. I asked 1up-usa about this confusion and they immediately got back to me via an e-mail as well as answered my call when I called to clarify. They say it is a fake and that 1up-usa is the official site to order products. I dug a little further and found this interesting article that sends you down the road of a previous comment about a disgruntled worker, or in this case the disgruntled inventor. Dickeyville bike rack business on a roll | Tri-state News | telegraphherald.com


The situation is discussed at length in this thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-usa-com-vs-1upusa-com-who-knows-what-1055205.html


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

69tr6r said:


> The tilt feature is really nice though. I wonder if they will offer a retrofit kit for the older racks.


Out last week
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/ez-pull/


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## Futahaguro (Sep 6, 2017)

evasive said:


> The situation is discussed at length in this thread:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up-usa-com-vs-1upusa-com-who-knows-what-1055205.html


Thanks.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

72guy said:


> Out last week
> https://www.1up-usa.com/product/ez-pull/


Thanks 72guy, but I have a single rack.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up. 

I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:

FWIW, I previously had a Yakima Holdup for @6 years. I regularly move between a 2-bike setup and 4 bike setup. I use my rack for trail bikes, kids bikes, road bikes, and fat bikes.

1. The rack is heavy af. I get that it's well built and such, but damn.
2. The release mechanism for tilting sucked. It sometimes pulls on one end, sometimes both. I had to regularly lube mine to keep it from jamming up from dust/ dirt. 
3. The release mechanism sucks even more if you have more than 1-2 bike trays on. The rack is nearly impossible to manage/ tilt with one person when it has 4 bike trays- even without bikes!
4. Like I said, I might have four fat bikes in the rack one day and a mixture of family bikes the next. Having to get tools out to adjust the height of the wheel bars (or whatever they're called) to accommodate different sizes of bikes is a PITA. 
5. I originally just converted all of mine to the fat bike adapters, but found that both kids bikes and road bikes did not fare well with the wide stance of the bars, almost falling out of my rack several times. Again, having to get tools out and take the whole thing apart to be able to accommodate different bikes is whack.
6. The rack came loose and shifted out of my hitch about 1" more than once. Always on rough 4x4 roads, but still. I cranked on it, built a little retention thing to ensure it wouldn't fall out completely, etc-- but it's a $1000 rack. I thought it was kinda lame that I have to develop things myself to make it better (I also made a pull so you could release and tilt it from the back, but again, kinda lame that I had to do that for such an expensive rack). 
7. The release mechanisms on the arms are poorly engineered and can be over-extended easily - especially by friends/ people who aren't familiar with the mechanism. They also got gummed up with dirt easily.
8. I found getting bikes out to be kind of a pain. The way the securing bars hold the tires, once you release one of the wheels, you then need both hands to undo the other wheel, and the securing bar often kinda sticks to the tire and needs to be man-handled a bit. With two hands needed to release the bar, the bike kinda falls over as you release it. 

I think that's it. Again, just MY experience, given MY needs out of a 2-4 bike hitch rack, and, obviously, YMMV. The new design looks like it addresses most of these concerns, save maybe the going back and forth between fat bikes and skinnier wheels, but they also do sell an adapter for that. It's also cheaper, so that's better, too. 

So far, I'm loving the Thule. It's lighter, has a release mechanism in the back, and can accommodate every bike in our family's fleet (and friends) without any changes/ adjustments/ tools. Goes in in less than 10 seconds and locks to the hitch with a built twist handle - no extra tools/ gismos, etc. Totally impressed so far.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

alshead said:


> Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.
> 
> I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:
> 
> ...


When I purchased it, it was the lightest wheel holding platform rack for 4 bikes, including Kuat.


alshead said:


> 2. The release mechanism for tilting sucked. It sometimes pulls on one end, sometimes both. I had to regularly lube mine to keep it from jamming up from dust/ dirt.


I never had to lube it. Yes, it suffers from friction, and I have to pull it up slightly to release it from horizontal position.


alshead said:


> 3. The release mechanism sucks even more if you have more than 1-2 bike trays on. The rack is nearly impossible to manage/ tilt with one person when it has 4 bike trays- even without bikes!


Not true. I always handle it alone (4 trays), and I am not a powerlifter by any means. Just regular 5'8" white collar who attends gym 3-4 times a year. All you need to do is find the right position. However, the new release looks like definite improvement.
I do not think a 4-bike tilting platform rack exist which a single person might operate with bikes loaded. Bikes alone would weight 100+ pounds!
The only way to handle 4 bikes loaded would be a swing rack, but the weight of a swing platform rack would be prohibitive IMHO.


alshead said:


> 4. Like I said, I might have four fat bikes in the rack one day and a mixture of family bikes the next. Having to get tools out to adjust the height of the wheel bars (or whatever they're called) to accommodate different sizes of bikes is a PITA.
> 5. I originally just converted all of mine to the fat bike adapters, but found that both kids bikes and road bikes did not fare well with the wide stance of the bars, almost falling out of my rack several times. Again, having to get tools out and take the whole thing apart to be able to accommodate different bikes is whack.


Yes, fat adapters might not be suitable for road bikes, but using second to the tallest position I can carry 29 to 24" MTB, and the tallest possible position accommodates everything from 29+ to 26" MTB. Can't comment on, say, 20" because 24" is the smallest we have. QR from the new design can be a nice feature if it proves to be reliable.


alshead said:


> 6. The rack came loose and shifted out of my hitch about 1" more than once. Always on rough 4x4 roads, but still. I cranked on it, built a little retention thing to ensure it wouldn't fall out completely, etc-- but it's a $1000 rack. I thought it was kinda lame that I have to develop things myself to make it better (I also made a pull so you could release and tilt it from the back, but again, kinda lame that I had to do that for such an expensive rack).


Never happened to me which does not mean it may never happen.


alshead said:


> 7. The release mechanisms on the arms are poorly engineered and can be over-extended easily - especially by friends/ people who aren't familiar with the mechanism. They also got gummed up with dirt easily.
> 8. I found getting bikes out to be kind of a pain. The way the securing bars hold the tires, once you release one of the wheels, you then need both hands to undo the other wheel, and the securing bar often kinda sticks to the tire and needs to be man-handled a bit. With two hands needed to release the bar, the bike kinda falls over as you release it.


Never had issues with dirt or heavily stuck tire, and do not see how overextending can harm. Simple trick to avoid the bike falling out is to always release the front wheel first. At least this is how I do this.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

alshead said:


> Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.
> 
> I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:
> ...
> So far, I'm loving the Thule. It's lighter, has a release mechanism in the back, and can accommodate every bike in our family's fleet (and friends) without any changes/ adjustments/ tools. Goes in in less than 10 seconds and locks to the hitch with a built twist handle - no extra tools/ gismos, etc. Totally impressed so far.


I was surprised to read that T2 Pro XT is lighter, and checked: it is not.
It weights 52lb + adapter 35lb = 87lb.
1UP is 46 + 2x18 = 82lb.

Main reason I excluded T2 when shopping was, a friend of mine had the original T2, and the arms developed a very noticeable play very fast. The bikes did not look that stable. Add to this visible rust, a lot of plastic (which did not break though), and strap for a rear wheel which is not the best approach for carbon rims. And I did not even know about sliding trays then! I hope the Pro has this addressed.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

Kosulin- again, YMMV. Just my experience with it. Yeah, the earlier versions of the T2 were pretty janky and I didn't care for them at all. The new version is really nice and feels really solid. Rust and such will remain to be seen. And it does still have the strap on the rear wheel, though with a little buffer/ sheath on it. I had a strap on my old Yakima as well with carbon rims and never noticed any issues (and the wheels still run strong). 

As for weight, I guess it's a matter of handling and positioning. With the rear release latch on the back of the T2 XT Pro, I can lower and raise the rack with 4 bikes on it fairly easily. It also stops lowering a little sooner than the 1up (whenever I tried to do this with the 1up, it went so far down that I was kinda pinched by a bike and made it very awkward to both lower and raise). I even had my wife lower it and raise it the other day and she was surprised by how easy it was. Leverage, I guess.

Happy you're enjoying yours, and everyone else who likes it. You're part of why I went ahead with the purchase. But, for my daily use, it wasn't a good fit. Just thought others who might be shopping/ getting ready to pull the trigger might want another point of view.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

alshead said:


> Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.
> 
> I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:
> 
> ...


I agree with all of your points. I also just sold my 1up rack that I purchased 14 months ago this week, and now use a Saris Superclamp 2 that I picked up back in May. Heavy AF was the main reason I went with the Saris Superclamp; for two bikes, the Superclamp weighs 10 lbs less. I don't leave it on the car when I am not using it so taking a heavy rack on and off gets old quick. The Superclamp 2 also costs 40% less (when on sale, which is often) compared to the 1up.

I never changed the wheel holder spool position or carried any bikes other than mountain bikes with non fat tires on mine so I can't comment about those items. I only had my rack come loose the first time I used it, but maybe that was everything settling in and also on a rough dirt road as it was fine after that. The new design does seem to address almost all of these issues and looks to be a nice improvement, provided it has the same level of fit and finish.

I think platform hitch racks have evolved to the point that most are great designs, and the 1up does not stand out from the crowd like it once did. At this point, it's hard to justify the extra cost over other options which perform just as well.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

I carry road bikes with my fat bike adapters all of the time. Zero issues. I also carry bikes from 5" fatties all the way to 26" without adjusting the arms. If i carry a 24 or 20 inch then yes, it has to be moved. Not an issue. I'd rather have a metal rack with replaceable parts than a plastic one where my warranty is voided the moment I drive it on a dirt road.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## 72guy (Jul 31, 2017)

1. Thule weighs 5lbs more
2. Not an issue with the EZpull handle
3. See #2
4. No opinion
5. 2 choices--get rid of the kids or the fat tires. Just kidding, see previous posts where folks don't seem to have those issues.
6. At $1000 you overpaid. The Thule and the 1Up are in the same price caregory-expensive
7. Haven't had any issues with this.
8. Operator error--after releasing the front wheel, as previously mentioned, one hand easily breaks the rear tire free from the bar while steadying the front of the bike with the other hand.

I'm sure someone picked up a sweet deal on a 1Up.


Thule T2 Pro XT 9034XT
Premium, platform hitch bike rack delivering maximum strength, security and user friendliness (for 2-4 bikes)
$579.95

Technical specifications
Max number of bikes	2
Load capacity	120 lb
Max bike weight	60 lb
Dimensions	54 x 15 x 43 in
Folded dimensions	54.7 x 22.5 x 33.8 in
Weight	52 lb
Distance between bikes	12.5 in
Tilt function (with bikes)	
Fits 1.25" receivers	
Fits 2" receivers	
One Key System compatible	
Bike lock included	
Receiver lock included	
Model number	9034XTB

1Up USA
2″ Super Duty Double
$559.00–$639.00

Product Description
– Fits 2” receiver
– Fixed 2-bike system (second tray cannot be removed)
– Rack weight 47 lb.
– Increase bike capacity to 3 bikes (50–75 lb.) or 4 bikes (50 lb. or less) with additional Add-Ons (sold separately)
– Total carrying capacity of up to 275 lb. (50–75 lb. per bike spot) due to the added support bar under the tray
– Fits 16”–29” wheels, up to 3.1” wide (see spacer kit for tires wider than 3.1”)*
– Accommodates up to 54” wheelbase
– Rapid tilt and folding mechanism for smaller footprint
– Rack arms close to secure tires without touching the frame
– Ships in reusable box for easy storage (38” x 14” x 10”), shipping weight 53 lb.
– Compatible with the Standard and Super-Duty Add-Ons (sold separately)
– All rack parts anodized, except a powder-coat finish on the trays


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## k2rider1964 (Apr 29, 2010)

kosulin said:


> I was surprised to read that T2 Pro XT is lighter, and checked: it is not.
> It weights 52lb + adapter 35lb = 87lb.
> 1UP is 46 + 2x18 = 82lb.
> 
> Main reason I excluded T2 when shopping was, a friend of mine had the original T2, and the arms developed a very noticeable play very fast. The bikes did not look that stable. Add to this visible rust, a lot of plastic (which did not break though), and strap for a rear wheel which is not the best approach for carbon rims. And I did not even know about sliding trays then! I hope the Pro has this addressed.


I've had the original T2 for over 10 years. 100% bulletproof with zero issues. That rack has at least 50K miles under it's belt including a crapload of off-road driving to get to trails. It's showing it's age though and I want the newer handle release design....my only issue with the original. No rust (but I do live in arid SoCal), no play in the arms.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

I just came back to this thread....did not see it in the last couple of posts but ya'll have seen the NEW rack


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

briantortilla said:


> Here are some pics of my new heavy duty rack on my Mazda 3. I wasn't really a fan of the u-lock security option, so I got a "weather proof" padlock from a local locksmith and had him install a 3"shackle. A cable fits nicely in the shackle giving me a one key solution. I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup. As a plus, my hatch clears the rack when it is folded in the fully up stowed position making access to the back really easy!! Loving it so far.


You have great taste in cars, colors, and racks, Sir.


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## GoldFly (Nov 6, 2015)

mobiledynamics said:


> I just came back to this thread....did not see it in the last couple of posts but ya'll have seen the NEW rack


This is not the same 1up. Look at the other thread for more info. 1up-usa.com and 1upusa.com are not (or are no longer) the same company. If I need anything else for my 1up rack I'll be using 1up-usa.com.

I may purchase another add on rack sooner than I had previously planned from 1up-usa.com because who knows what could happen if a legal battle starts.


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## mobiledynamics (Jun 17, 2017)

Ouch GF. I just saw that other thread....
Konfusing times eh...


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## Emmerz (Jan 9, 2016)

Any Canadian owners care to comment on the shipping/duty/brokerage fees for getting one of these up to Vancouver? the web site mentions duty , but I thought NAFTA meant no duty on made in N.A products? Im pretty close to ordering one ( or the other 1upusa "mach 2" rack ) but am a little worried about being hit with a whopper of a shipping bill. 
Thanks!


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## Oscello (Sep 29, 2016)

tonyride1 said:


> View attachment 1156899


you either have excellent depth perception or terrible depth perception.......I cant tell with the shadow on the bumper.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Oscello said:


> you either have excellent depth perception or terrible depth perception.......I cant tell with the shadow on the bumper.


I'd go with terrible. Why, just why?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

It's either both or neither. The license plate didn't touch the wooden rail but I don't think there was more than a quarter of an inch in between.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Emmerz said:


> Any Canadian owners care to comment on the shipping/duty/brokerage fees for getting one of these up to Vancouver? the web site mentions duty , but I thought NAFTA meant no duty on made in N.A products? Im pretty close to ordering one ( or the other 1upusa "mach 2" rack ) but am a little worried about being hit with a whopper of a shipping bill.
> Thanks!


Yes you are going to get hit with a bill. One up will only ship with a courier so the courier charges a brokerage fee, usually $50-$70 whether there is duty or not. If they shipped usps to Canada post then there would be no charges. This goes with any online ordering that uses a courier like Fed-ex, UPS, etc.
Even with shipping fees it is worth it. Give them a call and see if they'll send it in the mail.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I go up to Canada (southern Ontario) quite often. For a nominal fee I can make a personal delivery. LOL


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## Emmerz (Jan 9, 2016)

tonyride1 said:


> I go up to Canada (southern Ontario) quite often. For a nominal fee I can make a personal delivery. LOL


make it out to Vancouver and we'll talk! lol

thanks for the input guys, sounds close to what 1up said to me. Duty free, but brokerage is up to the shipper , usually around $60. ish.

I almost never order online or internationally, and the few times I have ive be pretty blown away by the surprise fees .

Thanks for the info!


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## He1enKe1ler (Apr 2, 2015)

I think the wife may be getting me the 1UP Heavy Duty Double for Christmas. Hope that's the case, I've been talking about ordering one for months.

In the back of my head I have this weird worry that one of my tires will have a slow leak and go flat while on this rack though. Anyone ever had this problem?


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Yes kind of. I pinched and had to drive home with a flat on my bike. If you have the arms adjusted properly it isn't a concern.


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## dman_mb1 (Jan 19, 2007)

I have loaded up with normal pressure on my tubeless 29-er, so low/mid-20's (psi) pressure, and found a flat tire at the end of my drive. Bike still secure on the rack, but it's a concern ... especially with a road bike where the margin between loose and tight is only a click or two. We have the optional wheel locks and they add security for that situation.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

He1enKe1ler said:


> In the back of my head I have this weird worry that one of my tires will have a slow leak and go flat while on this rack though. Anyone ever had this problem?


This is the only drawback to this rack where the only part of the bike the rack touches are the tires. I've had this happen to me when I had one of those days where I just kept getting flats. I was on my fat bike and I haven't done the tubeless conversion yet so I was running tubes. The rear tube kept getting flats and I was running out of patches to keep it inflated. I had to drive to the nearest bike shop to pick up a new fat tube just so I can get air in the tire to get the bike home. I suppose if you keep a couple of velcro straps in your car you can always strap the rim to the tray if you're concerned with flatting out while on the rack.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> This is the only drawback to this rack where the only part of the bike the rack touches are the tires. I've had this happen to me when I had one of those days where I just kept getting flats. I was on my fat bike and I haven't done the tubeless conversion yet so I was running tubes. The rear tube kept getting flats and I was running out of patches to keep it inflated. I had to drive to the nearest bike shop to pick up a new fat tube just so I can get air in the tire to get the bike home. I suppose if you keep a couple of velcro straps in your car you can always strap the rim to the tray if you're concerned with flatting out while on the rack.


I had a Yakima King Cobra 2 Roof rack and the method to secure was the front tire clamp. There were several times where I transported bikes with flats but the clamp mechanism stayed in place. for 1up the obvious solution as you suggest is velcro strap. but with better tires and rims for tubeless who gets flats anymore? i have not had a flat tire over 3 years. m

but now that you mention it, I am going to put a bungy in the car for insurance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

I use the wheel locks just in case, but I doubt the bike would get loose enough to come out of the rack even with a flat.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Yes, tires deflating can make an issue but the arm is up around the wheel as well. The bike would wobble more but it won't come out. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## marcw (Apr 20, 2012)

I am overly cautious on things like this, I would through on a bungee/Velcro on tires no matter what. No one else adds a second way to secure the bike on long trips? 30 seconds to secure 2 tires.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

You are the type of person that would do this with any rack. I have had my rack for 3 years without a problem and the reason I got it was I lost a bike off of a T2. If you adjust your rack to fit your tires I can't see ever having a problem.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

marcw said:


> I am overly cautious on things like this, I would through on a bungee/Velcro on tires no matter what. No one else adds a second way to secure the bike on long trips? 30 seconds to secure 2 tires.


as Levelheadsteve just posted above, there are wheel locks available and they go through the holes in the arms that clamp the tires. I have these, but only use them for security on road trips.

for 99% of road & driving conditions I think the wheels stay in place as the tire flats without extra security.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

A friend of mine told me that he was traveling a bumpy road with bikes on his rack and the locking bar somehow dis-engaged from its slots, causing the rack to drop down to the "rear access" position. Has anyone else ever had this problem?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Vtbikologist said:


> A friend of mine told me that he was traveling a bumpy road with bikes on his rack and the locking bar somehow dis-engaged from its slots, causing the rack to drop down to the "rear access" position. Has anyone else ever had this problem?


It absolutely cannot do this if you properly put it in place. That is solely user error. Also, there is a black knob that can be tensioned against the release bar to hold it in place. I rarely use it as it's a PITA to get to. After 5 years of ownership, two 1ups, and thousands of bike trips, this has never happened.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## bim6180 (Sep 7, 2017)

Silentfoe said:


> It absolutely cannot do this if you properly put it in place. That is solely user error. Also, there is a black knob that can be tensioned against the release bar to hold it in place. I rarely use it as it's a PITA to get to. After 5 years of ownership, two 1ups, and thousands of bike trips, this has never happened.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


What he said....can't really see how this can happen other than the spring holding the "lock" got damaged somehow.


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## Alta Racks (Nov 27, 2017)

*ALTA SIX does not lose bikes and manages off roading like a champ*

Vtbikologist- that happens more than reported. Almost all these racks have a single point of failure when it comes to safety. Unlike our rack. We have triple safety built in to the rack. Our rack converts to other sports and carries up to six bikes, no touch, no rub, and no loss bikes or rack. Made in Utah. check out the video on our website please. altaracks.com


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Vtbikologist said:


> A friend of mine told me that he was traveling a bumpy road with bikes on his rack and the locking bar somehow dis-engaged from its slots, causing the rack to drop down to the "rear access" position. Has anyone else ever had this problem?


This has never happened to me and I don't see how it is even possible.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Vtbikologist said:


> A friend of mine told me that he was traveling a bumpy road with bikes on his rack and the locking bar somehow dis-engaged from its slots, causing the rack to drop down to the "rear access" position. Has anyone else ever had this problem?


 I don't drive on bumpy gravel roads, I race them. I am that guy people are afraid to drive with and I never have had my rack disengage. I have seen this happen with other racks though. Usually with a pin style of disengagement.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

On a recent road trip holiday I went to the back of my Jeep and found that one of my rear trays was starting to pivot rearward. Looking at it I found that the 15 degree plate had a broken piece that was the stop for the tray. This portion of the plate isn't very thick and It really got me mad to have had this happen. After some swearing and a little bit of deep thought I came to the assumption that this was my fault. I had been through a auto car wash the day before and the top wash roller had become stuck on my rack. My fault because I should have removed it before entering.. I tied up the tray and carried on my trip.
When I got home I looked up the parts and went to order them, I remembered that 1up ships with a courier. In Canada the couriers charge us a brokerage fee on the back end. Usually $50-60. I emailed 1up, explained myself and after a few emails they agreed and sent my plate in the mail. I got it today with a $16 customs charge and will change it out tonight.
In Canada I have never had as good of service with anyone in the bike industry, other of course than my LBS. Most manufactures don't care about their product after the point of sale. This is one of the reasons to buy a 1up rack.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Alta Racks said:


> Vtbikologist- that happens more than reported. Almost all these racks have a single point of failure when it comes to safety. Unlike our rack. We have triple safety built in to the rack. Our rack converts to other sports and carries up to six bikes, no touch, no rub, and no loss bikes or rack. Made in Utah. check out the video on our website please. altaracks.com
> View attachment 1169609


It may, but likely not. Your snub of another brand to help sell yours based on a story you can't confirm is, well...

If these racks failed at that point, it would get reported to 1up at the least, and most likely plastered all over forums or review websites.

This thread is most likely the single largest database of 1up user experiences on the net.

This just doesn't happen without user error.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> This has never happened to me and I don't see how it is even possible.


I had it happen once. 1 up with 4 spots. Went around a bumpy right hand climbing turn at an intersection. The rack dropped to the low position. The back edge of the 4th tray ground down a bit.

My hypothesis is that the locking bar did not seat completely. No evidence. I've just noticed that it can get bound 1/2 way out of the notch. Seems like the most likely scenario.

My wife uses the locking nut. I just give the thing a few lifts to make sure the bar seats all the way. No problems since.


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## deville410 (Apr 1, 2018)

briantortilla said:


> Here are some pics of my new heavy duty rack on my Mazda 3. I wasn't really a fan of the u-lock security option, so I got a "weather proof" padlock from a local locksmith and had him install a 3"shackle. A cable fits nicely in the shackle giving me a one key solution. I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup. As a plus, my hatch clears the rack when it is folded in the fully up stowed position making access to the back really easy!! Loving it so far.


Thank you for this. Ordered this exact lock after hours of trying to find one off the shelf with these specs.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Alta Racks said:


> Vtbikologist- that happens more than reported. Almost all these racks have a single point of failure when it comes to safety. Unlike our rack. We have triple safety built in to the rack. Our rack converts to other sports and carries up to six bikes, no touch, no rub, and no loss bikes or rack. Made in Utah. check out the video on our website please. altaracks.com
> View attachment 1169609


Looks like a decent rack and certainly innovative. Would be nice if you had a basket that would accommodate a fat bike tire.

But your rack also has multiple points where it is a single point of failure with respect to safety. Anything on the main supports or the main hinge if they fail, the rack fails. That is a "single point of failure" with respect to safety.

J.


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## deville410 (Apr 1, 2018)

If anyone is interested in a quick "peace of mind" solution to securing your wheels, I bought a couple packs of lawnmower handle bolts ($4 each) and some 5/16" x 4" hex bolts. Used an old tube to wrap them and threaded them through the inside of my wheels. They don't lock but they'll at least catch if for some reason the ratchets come loose. I'd never expect that to happen but I like the added peace of mind.

Just bought my 1up based on this thread. Definitely a good investment.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arnold-She...rNzfPU4VWAepcghM7dIwtTNWEt-5sJr8aAr53EALw_wcB


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

2 months since getting mine, don't know why I waited so long. Love this thing!

I bought their lock for $20, and never leave my bike unattended.


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

JohnJ80 said:


> Looks like a decent rack and certainly innovative. Would be nice if you had a basket that would accommodate a fat bike tire.
> 
> But your rack also has multiple points where it is a single point of failure with respect to safety. Anything on the main supports or the main hinge if they fail, the rack fails. That is a "single point of failure" with respect to safety.
> 
> J.


But, but, but, they say it's military grade!!!

Outside of some hardened electronics, 'military grade' means 'same as civilian version but costs a lot more and may come in a camo version'.

Other items of note on their website:

'four-season rack'. Oh damn, got all those three-season racks beat!

Overabundant use of the word 'interface'. What's wrong with 'adaptor'?

'the rack that cuddles your bike'. Creepiness aside, I thought this was 'military grade'!

'Tactical'. Apparently it's an assault style rack.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

deville410 said:


> If anyone is interested in a quick "peace of mind" solution to securing your wheels, I bought a couple packs of lawnmower handle bolts ($4 each) and some 5/16" x 4" hex bolts. Used an old tube to wrap them and threaded them through the inside of my wheels. They don't lock but they'll at least catch if for some reason the ratchets come loose. I'd never expect that to happen but I like the added peace of mind.
> 
> Just bought my 1up based on this thread. Definitely a good investment.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arnold-She...rNzfPU4VWAepcghM7dIwtTNWEt-5sJr8aAr53EALw_wcB


That's clever and good for long trips. My solution is much simpler and that is to use a bungee cord (or string 2 or 3 together) and hook the ends to each of the opposing arms. Hook them to either any one of the many holes up and down the arms or to the bowtie shafts that touches the tires. This applies constant pressure inwards so the arms won't open up.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> That's clever and good for long trips. My solution is much simpler and that is to use a bungee cord (or string 2 or 3 together) and hook the ends to each of the opposing arms. Hook them to either any one of the many holes up and down the arms or to the bowtie shafts that touches the tires. This applies constant pressure inwards so the arms won't open up.


The risk isn't the arms opening, it's keeping the tires in the trays if, say, you hit a very big bump at highway speeds. That said, I hit a major pavement defect at 80mph that almost put our SUV airborne. The front wheel twisted a bit but everything was fine. If you really want to worry, just put a toe clip strap or a bungee around the bottom the wheel and the tray.

You really don't need to worry about the cam mechanism breaking. It's just not going to happen.

J.


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## wawa56 (Mar 4, 2012)

Hello all. I've had a 1up USA quick rack for five years. Still looks and functions like new. 
I'm looking for new security options. Specifically to replace the Velcro emergency straps.
Has anyone ever tried this product? It's pricey, but looks like it might be a good solution. 
Thoughts?

https://ottodesignworks.com/shop/ottolock


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

So I bit the bullet and got a 1up rack. Quick question. One of the locking blue arms slight rubs against the tray when opened. It's like the tray is a teeny tiny sticking out, and when I move the blue lever to lock it, it initially hits the tray, scraping the finish in a small area and once it clears it, there's no more rubbing. Big deal or complain to 1up?

Also, I was transporting the rack inside my car with the trays folded in. I noticed that the wheel arms sorta rattled. Is this normal? so when the rack is on the hitch and no bike is on it, I wonder now if the wheel arms vibrate and make that rattling sound.

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

wawa56 said:


> Hello all. I've had a 1up USA quick rack for five years. Still looks and functions like new.
> I'm looking for new security options. Specifically to replace the Velcro emergency straps.
> Has anyone ever tried this product? It's pricey, but looks like it might be a good solution.
> Thoughts?
> ...


Here's how I do it for both security and safety. The U-Lock is short enough where if the rack loosens up it can't slide out enough to drop out of the hitch. As you can see I have a piece of duct tape on the shaft to mark how far it insert without getting too close to the car when bike is on the rack and I wrapped a piece of old inner tube along the "U" to keep it from rattling and marking up the rack.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

Hi, I've had my 1Up rack for somewhat under a year. I went with basically the same U-lock setup as tonyride1, for several reasons: 1) didn't feel comfortable with just Velcro, 2) wanted to be able to prevent theft of entire rack and 3) I can loop a cable lock or chain lock through the U-lock if I need to lock up bikes. You can find U-locks that vary in size, so you can buy to match your fit.
Concerning the question about rattling, I recall reading quite a bit about that somewhere on mtbr. I presume you are talking about the rack when no bike is in it. Some people came up with some easy remedies; others had no noticeable issue. Rattling may also depend on if you have the rack in the vertical, stored position or flat. Some people are particular about such things and others not. If you're concerned, contact 1Up or check out the older forum discussions.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

djork said:


> So I bit the bullet and got a 1up rack. Quick question. One of the locking blue arms slight rubs against the tray when opened. It's like the tray is a teeny tiny sticking out, and when I move the blue lever to lock it, it initially hits the tray, scraping the finish in a small area and once it clears it, there's no more rubbing. Big deal or complain to 1up?
> 
> Also, I was transporting the rack inside my car with the trays folded in. I noticed that the wheel arms sorta rattled. Is this normal? so when the rack is on the hitch and no bike is on it, I wonder now if the wheel arms vibrate and make that rattling sound.
> 
> Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


Have used the 1up for about 5 years now, I have no rattling with mine when it is folded up or left down, it is silent.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

wawa56 said:


> Hello all. I've had a 1up USA quick rack for five years. Still looks and functions like new.
> I'm looking for new security options. Specifically to replace the Velcro emergency straps.
> Has anyone ever tried this product? It's pricey, but looks like it might be a good solution.
> Thoughts?
> ...


I just got one. I think it's a very sold product. It also has a ratchet style closure so you could tighten it up pretty well. I think it would be fine from a water tight perspective, but I'd ask the mfg about using it if it were in the slipstream behind your car. That's sort of a sustained high pressure water spray situation.

As a lock though, it's excellent. Way better security than any other lock you can carry in a jersey pocket.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

JohnJ80 said:


> I just got one. I think it's a very sold product. It also has a ratchet style closure so you could tighten it up pretty well. I think it would be fine from a water tight perspective, but I'd ask the mfg about using it if it were in the slipstream behind your car. That's sort of a sustained high pressure water spray situation.
> 
> As a lock though, it's excellent. Way better security than any other lock you can carry in a jersey pocket.


might look into one of those as well...


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

I was wondering if the wheel trays are supposed to swing easily with ease or are they supposed to require two hands and some force to open and fold? My new 1up feels super tight when opening and folding the wheel trays.

Also, I think I found the source of the rattle that I mentioned a few posts up. When the vent arms are folded down, the outside arm bar touches one of the two cylindrical mounts on the glide bar. If I put something between the two contact points, the rattle stops. 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

djork said:


> I was wondering if the wheel trays are supposed to swing easily with ease or are they supposed to require two hands and some force to open and fold? My new 1up feels super tight when opening and folding the wheel trays.
> 
> Also, I think I found the source of the rattle that I mentioned a few posts up. When the vent arms are folded down, the outside arm bar touches one of the two cylindrical mounts on the glide bar. If I put something between the two contact points, the rattle stops.
> 
> Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


I've had mine for YEARS now and the trays are stiff and require effort to fold. I assume you are talking about the tray the tires sit on, requiring the blue levers t o be released before folding for storage? A few minutes of love and attention with a wrench and some Boeshield T-9 fixes all. If any of the nylon locking nuts seem weak, buy new ones they are cheap.

I bought the 1up wall mount and lagged it to the garage wall. Rack off on stored on wall in about 6 seconds. Very easy. I store my add-on tray folded in the corner. Rarely use it but there when needed.

You may want to spray some lube between the pivot point, or take it apart to see if there's dirt in there. Maybe an lot of salt spray (Winter) could cause some oxidation if the coating has worn off? I just don't fold my main trays very often except when I go camping, I throw the folded 1up rack in the SUV, and the bikes in the toy hauler.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

John said:


> I've had mine for YEARS now and the trays are stiff and require effort to fold. I assume you are talking about the tray the tires sit on, requiring the blue levers t o be released before folding for storage? A few minutes of love and attention with a wrench and some Boeshield T-9 fixes all. If any of the nylon locking nuts seem weak, buy new ones they are cheap.
> 
> I bought the 1up wall mount and lagged it to the garage wall. Rack off on stored on wall in about 6 seconds. Very easy. I store my add-on tray folded in the corner. Rarely use it but there when needed.
> 
> You may want to spray some lube between the pivot point, or take it apart to see if there's dirt in there. Maybe an lot of salt spray (Winter) could cause some oxidation if the coating has worn off? I just don't fold my main trays very often except when I go camping, I throw the folded 1up rack in the SUV, and the bikes in the toy hauler.


I forgot to mention that my rack is brand spanking new. So I thought maybe over time the trays will swing with ease with only one hand moving them. But good to know that they are supposed to be tight and don't open easily.

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk


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## flashpunk (Oct 3, 2016)

Been lurking this thread for some time, hoping the new mach 2 would be released in time, but I couldn't wait and ordered 1 super duty, and 1 super duty add on (in separate purchases).

I'm very happy with the rack. I have one comment though - when I purchased the 2nd rack (I also purchased a full set of wheel locks, add on lock, and hitch lock (they were all keyd the same - awesome).

My problem, is that when I made the separate purchase for the add-on rack - they didn't provide me with another allen wrench. It seems to me, if you provide a product that requires a tool to use, you should provide that (especially if it's as simple as an allen wrench). I emailed them to ask why this is, and they basically just said that the expectation is that the customer would use one of the first 2 they provided, and more could be purchased on the shop. I let them know I thought that was a cash grab.

This seems like a miss on their part, and has kind of left me with a bad taste about the rack, although I am still happy with it.


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## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

What could you possibly do with 3 of the same allen wrench? It seems fairly reasonable that they would not provide another considering the only people purchasing the add on will already have 2.


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## flashpunk (Oct 3, 2016)

briantortilla said:


> What could you possibly do with 3 of the same allen wrench? It seems fairly reasonable that they would not provide another considering the only people purchasing the add on will already have 2.


Sure.
I like to have spares, in case I lose one.


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## mbmtb (Nov 28, 2013)

Yeah, I ordered the add-on and was really sad when it didn't have all the parts I needed. Why didn't they include the base rack in the box? Must be trying to cut corners?
/s


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I also ordered an add-on separately and didn't receive another allen wrench but I wasn't expecting to receive another one so I wasn't disappointed. Personally I don't see the point or need to have a 3rd one since the original base rack came with 2 and you can't use the add-on without the base. Again, this is just my own personal opinion but I'm good with having 2 wrenched. Now, if I'm the type who's constantly losing stuff and lost both wrenches then I'd bigger problems to worry about.


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## danmtz (Jan 16, 2018)

Starting to question if I should have ordered one of these. I picked up the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 from REI based on a 20% off discount they had recently. Still waiting to get my hitch installed to use the rack, but I'm definitely second guessing. The good thing is i could use the Sherpa for almost a year and return it back to REI if i really wanted with no consequence. Their biggest seller was semi-integrated locks and hitch pin locks, as well as the small footprint. I'll have to take some time to think about this though and use the rack some first.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

danmtz said:


> Starting to question if I should have ordered one of these. I picked up the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 from REI based on a 20% off discount they had recently. Still waiting to get my hitch installed to use the rack, but I'm definitely second guessing. The good thing is i could use the Sherpa for almost a year and return it back to REI if i really wanted with no consequence. Their biggest seller was semi-integrated locks and hitch pin locks, as well as the small footprint. I'll have to take some time to think about this though and use the rack some first.


I checked out the Sherpa, along with some other models, before I settled on the 1UP rack and I never looked back. Since you're still waiting for the hitch to be installed on to your vehicle you might as well return the Sherpa and order the 1UP.


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## Alta Racks (Nov 27, 2017)

*safety features*



JohnJ80 said:


> Looks like a decent rack and certainly innovative. Would be nice if you had a basket that would accommodate a fat bike tire.
> 
> But your rack also has multiple points where it is a single point of failure with respect to safety. Anything on the main supports or the main hinge if they fail, the rack fails. That is a "single point of failure" with respect to safety.
> 
> J.


Thanks for the reply, the single pivot point does have safety feature of an outer safety pin a 5/8 pin that stop the rotation. We also have tie down points for thrid layer safety as well. We have been off roading with this rack for past 2.5 years and not a single failure. Carson Storch is actually jumping his truck with the rack. WE also have fat tire baskets as well.






on. Plus we provide LIFE TIME warranty.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

danmtz said:


> Starting to question if I should have ordered one of these. I picked up the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 from REI based on a 20% off discount they had recently. Still waiting to get my hitch installed to use the rack, but I'm definitely second guessing. The good thing is i could use the Sherpa for almost a year and return it back to REI if i really wanted with no consequence. Their biggest seller was semi-integrated locks and hitch pin locks, as well as the small footprint. I'll have to take some time to think about this though and use the rack some first.


I looked at the Sherpa 2.0 when I replaced my 1up, it's a great rack and with 20% off a good value. Compared to the 1up it is lighter, easier to install and use, and has built in locks. The only downside is some Kuat racks have had long term durability issues, but they do have a lifetime warranty and are good about sending replacement parts if needed. You made a good choice, no need to second guess it now.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

Alta Racks said:


> Thanks for the reply, the single pivot point does have safety feature of an outer safety pin a 5/8 pin that stop the rotation. We also have tie down points for thrid layer safety as well. We have been off roading with this rack for past 2.5 years and not a single failure. Carson Storch is actually jumping his truck with the rack. WE also have fat tire baskets as well.
> View attachment 1193666
> on. Plus we provide LIFE TIME warranty.
> View attachment 1193663
> ...


that is a sweet set up on the Tacoma. I am thinking of getting a Tacoma in the next year or 2 and might steal some of those ideas...did you guys build the tent rack system as well? Have your web site bookmarked for the bike rack!!!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

danmtz said:


> Starting to question if I should have ordered one of these. I picked up the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 from REI based on a 20% off discount they had recently. Still waiting to get my hitch installed to use the rack, but I'm definitely second guessing. The good thing is i could use the Sherpa for almost a year and return it back to REI if i really wanted with no consequence. Their biggest seller was semi-integrated locks and hitch pin locks, as well as the small footprint. I'll have to take some time to think about this though and use the rack some first.


I wonder if REI would allow returns in consecutive years of different brands and/or models of racks? So this year one gets a Kuat Sherpa and returns it next year in time to buy another model of Kuat, and then the next year a Thule, and Yakima. Maybe once the practice gets socialized it will drive REI to 30 day return policy?

Sincerely,

And so on, and so on....






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## danmtz (Jan 16, 2018)

cjsb said:


> I wonder if REI would allow returns in consecutive years of different brands and/or models of racks? So this year one gets a Kuat Sherpa and returns it next year in time to buy another model of Kuat, and then the next year a Thule, and Yakima. Maybe once the practice gets socialized it will drive REI to 30 day return policy?
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ...


Hah, I doubt they'd be able to notice that much, but as I've done my research on Kuat, they only just refreshed their Sherpa and NV lines 1-2 years ago after about 5+ years. Seems they don't update them as often.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

danmtz said:


> Hah, I doubt they'd be able to notice that much, but as I've done my research on Kuat, they only just refreshed their Sherpa and NV lines 1-2 years ago after about 5+ years. Seems they don't update them as often.


And to be clear, I was not casting judgement on any customer who would try. In fact, I would encourage one to return if not satisfied and do the same if it happens again. I am more interested in the socializing aspect that appeared to be a big driver in REI replacing the lifetime return policy with the current one year.

Even the mighty Costco is not a bottomless pit when it comes to returns on certain product.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Mike2009 (Jul 17, 2009)

The 1UP is the real deal... so many happy customers cants be a fluke!


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## Mike2009 (Jul 17, 2009)

I run 2.8+ tires on my Santa Cruz and they fit fine!


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

29x3 Knards fit right in mine as well!!!


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

Can't find a clear answer to my question. Just pulled the trigger on a 1UP rack when I realized something. I have a class 1 hitch (1.25") on my car. There is a safety nub/tab inside the hitch that is meant to prevent the use of class II accessories. The only problem is that I don't have enough length inside the hitch before the nub to reach the required minimum insertion. The 1UP website shows a diagram under fitment for the Quick Rack 1 bike 1.25"-2" that shows 4.3" to be the minimum insertion distance.

The way I see my options are:

1) Drill out the tab and slide the rack in to the desired length (don't want to do that for safety/integrity of the hitch)

2) Get a 6" extender that fits into the class I hitch with a locking pin, then insert the 1UP rack. A couple downsides to this... When using extender, tongue weight goes down by 50%. So from 200lbs to 100lbs, I only ever plan on using 1 bike, so that's fine. The bigger issue is the stability due to the extension and the wobble I may experience while driving. And ground clearance would be worse on the rear with the hitch extender in place.

I really want to buy the 1UP rack, but I don't like either of those options. Anyone have other suggestions?

Funnily enough, someone posted a picture of the same model car I have with a 1UP Quik Rack with the same hitch I have. I wonder if he drilled out the safety nub/tab.

Picture can be seen in customer review (Scion FR-S): https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Scion/FR-S/2016/24935.html?vehicleid=201646843


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

7OFF said:


> Can't find a clear answer to my question. Just pulled the trigger on a 1UP rack when I realized something. I have a class 1 hitch (1.25") on my car. There is a safety nub/tab inside the hitch that is meant to prevent the use of class II accessories. The only problem is that I don't have enough length inside the hitch before the nub to reach the required minimum insertion. The 1UP website shows a diagram under fitment for the Quick Rack 1 bike 1.25"-2" that shows 4.3" to be the minimum insertion distance.
> 
> The way I see my options are:
> 
> ...


I have a 1-¼" Class I receiver also and there's no tab, notch, or any obstructions at all. The path is clear all the way through. I don't know if this is a new thing but my hitch is an aftermarket Curt hitch I got from e-Trailer.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

7OFF said:


> Can't find a clear answer to my question. Just pulled the trigger on a 1UP rack when I realized something. I have a class 1 hitch (1.25") on my car. There is a safety nub/tab inside the hitch that is meant to prevent the use of class II accessories. The only problem is that I don't have enough length inside the hitch before the nub to reach the required minimum insertion. The 1UP website shows a diagram under fitment for the Quick Rack 1 bike 1.25"-2" that shows 4.3" to be the minimum insertion distance.
> 
> The way I see my options are:
> 
> ...


It looks like that hitch is custom for the SCION. Maybe they are trying to tell the buyer that this car has very limited capacity? (Maybe the tab is the custom part)

I have a 1up 2" but I don't recall the min. Insert being that far? Maybe they have changed over time? I just got up and checked and the min. Insert is 2".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

It might just be a draw tight hitch thing. I have a draw tight on my focus and it has the tab while the Curt on my VW doesn't. The draw tight has been on my focus now for 2 1/2 years with a 1up installed without any issue. I can't remember exactly how far the ball is inserted into the receiver but it wasn't as far as I would have liked. I do have it chained to the hitch though just in case it starts working loose.


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

cjsb said:


> i have a marker on mine for the minimum insertion, looks like 2-2.5".
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You have it inserted only 2.5"? Or you mean the ball is 2.5" inside the hitch receiver?


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

canker said:


> It might just be a draw tight hitch thing. I have a draw tight on my focus and it has the tab while the Curt on my VW doesn't. The draw tight has been on my focus now for 2 1/2 years with a 1up installed without any issue. I can't remember exactly how far the ball is inserted into the receiver but it wasn't as far as I would have liked. I do have it chained to the hitch though just in case it starts working loose.


I am thinking of doing this as well, maybe with a tightly wound braided steel cable through the rack and the loops on the hitch receiver.

Would you mind measuring the insertion distance you have? I have 3.9" before the tab inside my hitch.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Centerline of the ball is 2 inches. I wouldn't use it without 3 inches of insertion. If you have 3.9 inches then you are really good to go.
Did that sound dirty?


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

rlee said:


> Centerline of the ball is 2 inches. I wouldn't use it without 3 inches of insertion. If you have 3.9 inches then you are really good to go.
> Did that sound dirty?


I have 3.9" total depth, not ball depth, which would amount to 1.5" centerline of the ball. Its about 1/2" short of the recommended depth, so I assume 1.5" centerline of the ball.

1UP recommends 4.3" insertion depth, I have 3.9". I think I'm going to chain it to the loops on my hitch and just go for it.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

7OFF said:


> You have it inserted only 2.5"? Or you mean the ball is 2.5" inside the hitch receiver?


I used it just over that line when I first bought it and with no issues. , but that was minimum insert back then.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

7OFF said:


> ...I have a class 1 hitch (1.25") on my car. There is a safety nub/tab inside the hitch ...
> 
> The way I see my options are:
> 
> 1) Drill out the tab and slide the rack in to the desired length (don't want to do that for safety/integrity of the hitch)


I had that on my Fiesta ST ... Hidden-Hitch brand I think ... drilled out the tab, schlopped some Rustolium on the bare metal and didn't look back.

There's not so much stress to worry about, same as the hole for the hitch pin.


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## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

Is anybody using the Rakattach with the 1UP? how do you like it? Thinking about getting it. 

Thanks


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

J_Westy said:


> I had that on my Fiesta ST ... Hidden-Hitch brand I think ... drilled out the tab, schlopped some Rustolium on the bare metal and didn't look back.
> 
> There's not so much stress to worry about, same as the hole for the hitch pin.


Yeah thats true. I'll see how far the hitch rack goes in as-is. I don't have access to a drill, but I could sand it down by hand using sand paper? More laborious, but probably still possible.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

The tab is thick, it would take forever. I tried to bend mine out of the way when I first got it and just gave up. One of these days I'll drill it out like Westy.


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## ShortTravelMag (Dec 15, 2005)

I just ordered a black single. No one else makes a single that goes on so easily, folds up, and can have 2 more trays added. I love my Saris 4 bike, but I wanted something for just me. Can’t wait.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

curtlo-dork said:


> I just ordered a black single. No one else makes a single that goes on so easily, folds up, and can have 2 more trays added. I love my Saris 4 bike, but I wanted something for just me. Can't wait.


You will love it! I probably won't ever need a second tray, so its perfect for me.

Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

Second year in for me. I’m not the I love it kinda guy. So it means something when I’m here saying it’s a damn good rack. 

I have a single black 2017 on my Outback and a 2015 (bought used) multi on my F150. All have been gr8


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

canker said:


> The tab is thick, it would take forever. I tried to bend mine out of the way when I first got it and just gave up. One of these days I'll drill it out like Westy.


In the meantime, on your Focus, you just slide it in as far as it will go and call it a day? I don't mind doing that, seeing as I'm only 0.5" short of 4.4" insertion.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Yes for 2 1/2 years, you can see I'm not too worried about it. I'd be more concerned if I were putting 2 or 3 bikes on it but just 1 meh.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

biscut said:


> Second year in for me. I'm not the I love it kinda guy. So it means something when I'm here saying it's a damn good rack.
> 
> I have a single black 2017 on my Outback and a 2015 (bought used) multi on my F150. All have been gr8


 I have a single and a double also. I wouldn't go without because they are one of the few things in life that just do what they are supposed to do.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

Well this finally motivated me to drill out the tab on the my draw tight hitch. Would have probably taken 5-10 mins but my 15 year old cordless drill doesn't hold a charge for crap so I started at 12 and finished a 8pm lol. That was in 3 sessions of about 3 mins before my drill would become worthless and I'd have to throw it back on the charger. Time for a new drill. If nothing else having the rack pushed closer in to the car I won't bang my shin on it as much.


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## 7OFF (May 16, 2018)

canker said:


> Well this finally motivated me to drill out the tab on the my draw tight hitch. Would have probably taken 5-10 mins but my 15 year old cordless drill doesn't hold a charge for crap so I started at 12 and finished a 8pm lol. That was in 3 sessions of about 3 mins before my drill would become worthless and I'd have to throw it back on the charger. Time for a new drill. If nothing else having the rack pushed closer in to the car I won't bang my shin on it as much.


Yeah, I'll have to check this out. My rack should be arriving this week. I'll see if I need to drill it out based on how it looks. Thanks for the advice though. I should be getting a new car next year, so I'm not terribly worried about it. Just need to make it work for a year.


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## ShortTravelMag (Dec 15, 2005)

Got my Black Super Duty single a week ago, been busy. I walk out and see my car has a flat tire...I typically bring my bike when I leave a car at a shop so I can get home and back again. I think, GREAT! I can throw my cool new 1up on and go to the shop for a fix...only to open the box, marvel at the black hunk of aluminum in front of me. Rip open the yellow envelope...and find only 2 bolts. No wrenches to be found.

A call to 1up, and they sent me the Add on pack instead of the one with wrenches. So now I have to take the bike apart and fit it in my car one last time.

Man it drives me nuts when that happens. The receipt in the same box clearly says it's a single rack, not an add on...

But I'm not surprised at anything anymore. It's always something.


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## Yellowmenace (Mar 23, 2010)

*4Runner 5th Gen + 2″ Super Duty Single*

Specific Question for those with these two.

4Runner 5th Gen + 2″ Super Duty Single.

Is there enough clearance for the back trunk to be open without lowering the rack? 
I currently have the 1.25" - 2" Quik Rack Single but it goes in between the 4Runner 2" hitch and my Avalon 1.25" hitch.

My requirements for a 2nd hitch is that I don't want to have to lower the 1up rack to open my trunk. Thanks for any of you that have these two combos.


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## Laekon (Apr 3, 2016)

I got a few quick questions I hope you all can help with before ordering. I live in an apartment and mostly ride on my own. A big selling point for me is how this rack folds up off the car so that I can store it in the car or a closet. I'm looking to get the single quick rack with an add-on. Does the add-on really come on and off as quickly as it looks? Any reason not to get the quick rack over the super duty? I'll be getting a 2" hitch but only carrying bikes that weight 30lbs or less each.


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## ShortTravelMag (Dec 15, 2005)

I just bought a single a few weeks ago. It does come off and on easy. A few turns of the wrench, and it's done.

I got the superduty for one reason, the "real" 2" versus using an adapter. I'm not a fan of adapters. So I ponied up for the superduty that I most certainly wouldn't need otherwise. I put a 23 pound bike on it.

I would have much preferred a simple choice at checkout time to get the 1-1/4 or 2 for the regular rack and save a few bucks, and a few pounds.

But yes, the 2nd does go on that easy. Once you screw in the 2 bolts onto the starter unit, you just drop the 2nd rack on and tighten the screws with the same wrench.

The folding up of the 2 trays makes for a pretty compact package to carry to and from the car.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Laekon said:


> I got a few quick questions I hope you all can help with before ordering. I live in an apartment and mostly ride on my own. A big selling point for me is how this rack folds up off the car so that I can store it in the car or a closet. I'm looking to get the single quick rack with an add-on. Does the add-on really come on and off as quickly as it looks? Any reason not to get the quick rack over the super duty? I'll be getting a 2" hitch but only carrying bikes that weight 30lbs or less each.


It does go on and comes off as quickly as it looks. Just loosen the two bolts using the same tool you use to secure the rack to the hitch, slide the add-on rack, and use that tool to tighten up the 2 bolts. All that can be done in less than a minute. For bike under 30 lbs. you don't need super duty. From a guy who has 2 bikes over 30 lbs. with a 1-1/4" regular duty version this is more than adequate and I've had that rack for over 4 years and logged literally tens of thousands of miles on it.


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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

Just got my one up rack (I got the black one std single version).

Installed it on a 2012 Chrysler town n country. My Receiver hitch is recessed about 4 1/2 inches from the bumper. The rack fits perfectly. In the stowed position I have 1/4 in he clearance, and that is with more than the required amount the rack has to be in the hitch. I can open my tailgate with the hitch stowed. My bike with 770mm bars fits fine on rack....and when in the swing down position, plenty of room for open tailgate. Awesome.

Would post pics....but kind of a pita on phone....and I don’t see how.


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## Crankyone (Dec 8, 2014)

letsgo said:


> Is anybody using the Rakattach with the 1UP? how do you like it? Thinking about getting it.
> 
> Thanks


I am interested in the RAKATTACH as well. It appears to solve a couple of issues I have with current receiver rack. Not trying to sway the thread but I believe it is sold by 1-UP!


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I have a 2" hitch, a quick rack and an add-on. The quick rack is fine, weighs less too. I take the add-on on and off frequently. Yes, it's easy.


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## GoldFly (Nov 6, 2015)

Laekon said:


> I got a few quick questions I hope you all can help with before ordering. I live in an apartment and mostly ride on my own. A big selling point for me is how this rack folds up off the car so that I can store it in the car or a closet. I'm looking to get the single quick rack with an add-on. Does the add-on really come on and off as quickly as it looks? Any reason not to get the quick rack over the super duty? I'll be getting a 2" hitch but only carrying bikes that weight 30lbs or less each.


No worries at all with your setup. I have the regular single quick rack with add-on and regularly carry 2 30+ lb. bikes with no issues whatsoever. And like others have said it's a breeze to take the second rack on and off. Only issue I had was leaving the 2 connecting bolts on all winter they seized up because of all the salt (obviously my fault). I was able to get them off and clean them up and all is well again.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I have a regular single and a super duty double. Unless you are driving gravel roads with two downhill bikes I would stick with the lighter regular. The extra weight of the super is just enough to make it awkward.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I asked 1-Up about a 4 bike Heavy Duty vs a 4 bike Super Duty on a 4x4 with light off road use. They recommended the Heavy Duty if I was never going to go over the total max weight limit of the Heavy Duty. Off road use was not a deciding factor between the two racks.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I’m getting ready to place an order for a 4 bike heavy duty. 

For those that have the black rack, how has long term durability been? I’ll use the rack without the 2 bike add on’s most of the time, so I assume the finish will age at different rates based on use? 

Are the wheel locks worth purchasing? Did you purchase 1 wheel lock per tray or 2 per tray? How about the hitch lock and add on locks? From pictures that I’ve seen of the hitch and wheel locks, they do not look to be very secure and easily circumvented.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I have a black rack and I touch up the nicks and scratches with a black marker. The anodizing does fade at a different rate depending on the part. It's only a concern if you are very particular about that sort of thing. I personally wouldn't pay more for black.
I didn't buy 1ups locks but did buy two trailer hitch locks at the hardware store. They were cheaper and better built. Just make sure you get ones that are long enough.
When we are local I use the wheel locks but when we travel I also add a cable lock and sometimes a u-lock also. I don't like our bikes out of sight at all.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

OldHouseMan said:


> I'm getting ready to place an order for a 4 bike heavy duty.
> 
> For those that have the black rack, how has long term durability been? I'll use the rack without the 2 bike add on's most of the time, so I assume the finish will age at different rates based on use?
> 
> Are the wheel locks worth purchasing? Did you purchase 1 wheel lock per tray or 2 per tray? How about the hitch lock and add on locks? From pictures that I've seen of the hitch and wheel locks, they do not look to be very secure and easily circumvented.


Mine is not black so cannot answer those questions.

I bought 3 wheel locks, one for each tray-I have 3 trays. I rarely use them. In fact, I can only recall using them on long road trips so they may deter a thief long enough if I am inside gas station or place to eat.

If you are really concerned about theft then I'd get 2 per tray as it will take longer to remove. I also have the cable but I have not used it.

I have the hitch lock and use it most of the time now, but I got it some time last year. Prior to that I used it without any locks at all for 2 years and never had an issue. I only got the locks because I see the racks everywhere now at trails and thought maybe there is an aftermarket now or maybe another rack owner may help themselves?

If you want peace of mind security then you can always use a U lock, hitch lock, cable lock, and wheel locks. But you'd be doing this with any brand rack that you bought, e.g., the locking system on my old Yakima roof rack was pretty much a joke. The best thing to prevent theft is to not leave the bikes unattended for very long.

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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

this i believe has been done by some already.... but i modified my racks. i bought some plastic knobs (knobs for lawnmower handles) and used them for the bolts that clamp down on tires. this way i can change to different sized wheels with no tools. (My daughters bike is 20"). i also switched to some 4 1/2 bolts. works great...i also use a rubber washer in between to knob and arm...absorbs the vibration.

and ditched the velcro safety strap...actually never used it. i ran a 1/8 wire cable loop around bottom bar on hitch....and then made an eyelet loop where i have a quick latch hook that hooks onto my hitch. easy...cost $10 (SS hook was $6), cable wire is inside a Polyurathane sheeeth.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Skyking1231 said:


> this i believe has been done by some already.... but i modified my racks. i bought some plastic knobs (knobs for lawnmower handles) and used them for the bolts that clamp down on tires. this way i can change to different sized wheels with no tools. (My daughters bike is 20"). i also switched to some 4 1/2 bolts. works great...i also use a rubber washer in between to knob and arm...absorbs the vibration.
> 
> and ditched the velcro safety strap...actually never used it. i ran a 1/8 wire cable loop around bottom bar on hitch....and then made an eyelet loop where i have a quick latch hook that hooks onto my hitch. easy...cost $10 (SS hook was $6), cable wire is inside a Polyurathane sheeeth.


My son has a 20" bike and I would like to carry in the add-on adapter so I would love to see your setup for the quickly adjusting the bowties. Thanks.


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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

tonyride1 said:


> My son has a 20" bike and I would like to carry in the add-on adapter so I would love to see your setup for the quickly adjusting the bowties. Thanks.


here is what i used or using at the moment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00271M5IA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you can sometimes find these at a local hardware store... I found one...had to order few more on ebay. these work with the existing bolt...BUT...i wanted a little more bolt sticking out...so went with a 4 1/2 inch rather than 4 inch. the knobs are thick enough that the extra bolt is still recessed into the knob. I am waiting on a T handle style knob that has a built in Nylock nut. will try those....but the current knobs seemed to be holding really well...not sure if the rubber washer is needed or not. the rubber washer is really just to keep the whole thing from coming loose when no bike installed....with bike there is enough pressure to keep things inplace...(at least the bolt and bowties). the bolt as you probably know is 5/16 -18...Ace hardware has smaller knobs...but the nut inside is recessed deeper inside the knob which will not work with a 4 inch bolt.

also locating a 4 1/2 bolt locallly was impossible...plenty of 4 inch and 5 inch...but no 4 1/2. i got SS ones on ebay 4 1/2. or you can get a 5 inch...and cut down to size.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Skyking1231 said:


> here is what i used or using at the moment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00271M5IA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> you can sometimes find these at a local hardware store... I found one...had to order few more on ebay. these work with the existing bolt...BUT...i wanted a little more bolt sticking out...so went with a 4 1/2 inch rather than 4 inch. the knobs are thick enough that the extra bolt is still recessed into the knob. I am waiting on a T handle style knob that has a built in Nylock nut. will try those....but the current knobs seemed to be holding really well...not sure if the rubber washer is needed or not. the rubber washer is really just to keep the whole thing from coming loose when no bike installed....with bike there is enough pressure to keep things inplace...(at least the bolt and bowties). the bolt as you probably know is 5/16 -18...Ace hardware has smaller knobs...but the nut inside is recessed deeper inside the knob which will not work with a 4 inch bolt.
> 
> also locating a 4 1/2 bolt locallly was impossible...plenty of 4 inch and 5 inch...but no 4 1/2. i got SS ones on ebay 4 1/2. or you can get a 5 inch...and cut down to size.


Awesome. Thanks.


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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

Just installed the EZ pull for the two racks. I was gonna make one which i could have....but didn't want to invest the time and energy....

anyhow...for those that are wondering. 

You can easily switch between two racks and single with the EZ pull installed.

all that is needed is unscrewing the two bolts that hold the 'add-on' on. (which you need to do anyway) and then loosen the two bolts on the handle that secure the handle rods to the bar. enough to slide the rods out....then retighten the bolts. easy. the handle stays on the add-on section.

not sure about 3 oe 4 rack setups.

just FYI


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## Laekon (Apr 3, 2016)

Ordering my 1up rack this week mainly cause of it's ability to fold up for apartment living and reputation for durability. Are their locks, wheel or hitch worth it? I'm getting the 1-1/4 1 bike rack to start and then will probably get 1 more tray in the future. I'm not sure if a padlock/cable or block/cable combo would be a better option.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

I bought their lock, and I like it very hard to get in there even with the tool, for $20 not bad. My rack is on 90% of the time.


Laekon said:


> Ordering my 1up rack this week mainly cause of it's ability to fold up for apartment living and reputation for durability. Are their locks, wheel or hitch worth it? I'm getting the 1-1/4 1 bike rack to start and then will probably get 1 more tray in the future. I'm not sure if a padlock/cable or block/cable combo would be a better option.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

There's a lot about bike locks and security scattered across mtbr. What you need depends on where you live and how secure you want to be. Bike cables can be easily cut, as can the aluminum 1Up support arms (with a battery powered tool); both are good for modest security situations.


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## chaeha (Jun 25, 2005)

Just got my new single bike quick rack. Love the build quality. Having trouble with the black lever though. Doesn’t seem to pull smoothly. It pulls somewhat eccentric and therefore catches on the grooves. Anyone else have this issue?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

chaeha said:


> Just got my new single bike quick rack. Love the build quality. Having trouble with the black lever though. Doesn't seem to pull smoothly. It pulls somewhat eccentric and therefore catches on the grooves. Anyone else have this issue?


Yeah, it take a little getting use to. Make sure you're pulling it right at the middle so both sides slide out evenly. I used to have that issue but with some practice and muscle memory it's no problem now.


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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

same here....annoying at first. make sure the black cup thingy is not all the way out.

also relieve some of the tension/weight off the bar


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

After you use it for a while it will no be as sticky.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I agree with the above. Also, keep an eye out to make sure that the bar engages fully in the notches on both sides when you change positions.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

How "tight" do you guys clamp the wheels down with your 1-up? I'm always concerned its not tight enough. Also, I've found sometimes I have to press the releases down hard and push the holders down to relieve pressure on the tires for it to open. Assume I'm putting too much pressure on! 

Note I have the heavy duty version 2 and also the +2 add on that I;ve only used a few times. I love the rack.

Thanks!


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I tighten with modest pressure; you don't need to or want to use a lot of force. As you noticed, doing so makes the releases harder to use. Just tight enough so the tire does not slop around.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Here's an easy trick to release the pressure. When you're about the release, apply pressure to the top of the arm towards the center of the bike (as if you're making it tighter). That relieves the pressure off the release lever and makes it easy to lift up to release the arm.


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## Newbikeman (Jun 28, 2018)

*Is it really secure?*

What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Newbikeman said:


> What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


Absolutely nothing, except once a human gets up to about 9mph running speed, the act of multi-tasking becomes more challenging. But when you look at this from a societal perspective, crime really does pay and yet we have far less crime then we should? It's a mystery of sorts...

I am going to start a new thread for all bike racks that asks others to share their stolen bike rack experiences, or their stolen bikes from their bike rack experiences. I will go out on a limb here and predict that 99% of the 1UP thefts will belong to people with new MTBR accounts.

From my own experience with an old Yakima roof rack that I had from 2004 - 2015, I recall there being a brief spike in reported roof rack thefts when I lived in SoCal, as someone was going around and prying them off roofs. The solution was a huge spike in the sale of convertibles to new car buyers.

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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Newbikeman said:


> What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


If someone happens to be walking around with a set of tools looking to steal a rack and/or a bike attached to it then there is absolutely nothing to stop them. This rack isn't theft proof nor does the manufacture claim it is theft proof. The main function of that rack, and most other racks, is to transport your bike. Any theft deterrent device you use is just there to keep an honest man honest by making it difficult (not impossible) for them to take it. There is always a risk of bike theft when it is on a rack but that's a risk that millions of people assume when they decide to transport their bikes that way. If you don't want to take that risk then get a vehicle big enough where you can store your bike(s) inside and out of sight of would be thieves.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

Newbikeman said:


> What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


I think you need the 1up tool to that, no?

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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

Newbikeman said:


> What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


this is where you would run a cable trough bike and hitch. but...like mentoned, not very hard to cut through cable. I don't leave my unattended on rack for too long...so no need for locks.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

rlee said:


> People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?


Getting your car stolen for your bike would suck but at least if you have your car insured you'll have some protection.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

True.
All the theft prevention suggestions here are good but a thief who wants your stuff will go all the way to try and get it.
Always carry a stick and don't let you stuff get out of sight.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

rlee said:


> People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?


ride a horse instead.

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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

Horse, good idea then you won't need a bike will you. Then you can start wearing a Tilley hat and become one of those people.


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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

tonyride1 said:


> Here's an easy trick to release the pressure. When you're about the release, apply pressure to the top of the arm towards the center of the bike (as if you're making it tighter). That relieves the pressure off the release lever and makes it easy to lift up to release the arm.


Thanks Tony, I do that - but I think I was clamping them down too hard and then there was only so much give for me to relieve pressure (hope that makes sense).

Thanks guys

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## a63vette (Jun 23, 2006)

First time using for road bikes - worked


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

a63vette said:


> Thanks Tony, I do that - but I think I was clamping them down too hard and then there was only so much give for me to relieve pressure (hope that makes sense).
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


OK. You really don't need to clamp it down that hard.


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## briantortilla (Jun 18, 2009)

Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

briantortilla said:


> Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.


I leave it on my car 24/7, 360. No issues.


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## Dr Evil (Sep 20, 2015)

tonyride1 said:


> I leave it on my car 24/7, 360. No issues.


What about those other 5 days?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Dr Evil said:


> What about those other 5 days?


I have it on my wife's car on those days for our camping trip.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

mine has been on for a year now...central Ohio weather, so a bit of everything. No problems at all!!


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

I was looking at the new design of these racks and the associated thread as I wanted something easier than what I had. I opted for the original 1up version and here are some thoughts on the two.

The only improvement that I would really get use out of is the crank handle for installing the rack to the car. That setup seems pretty slick and would be handy since I move them around a lot.

The release lever for lowering the rack wouldn't do much for me as trying to lower the rack with 2 or more bikes installed is a PITA. Once it lowers just a bit, you either have to support the whole thing by the outer most bike, or get hit by it. Picking it back up with 4 bikes is a 2 person job regardless of the release lever design. Once all the bikes are off, the original design works perfectly fine whether it's in 1, 2, 3, or 4 bike mode.

The quick release on the wheel size adjustment is nice for anything less than 26" in diameter. But in reality, once it's set, you would probably leave it in one spot most of the time anyway. If you wanted to change it, it's a pretty simple process and takes about 2 minutes with a 1/2" ratchet wrench. The quick release slots, in my opinion, lend themselves to having the wheel stop slide up and lose tension on the tire. Not necessarily and upgrade, just different and may or may not work for you.

I thought that the 5" tire width would be nice until I installed the kit on my 1up. Now the arms on the fat tray hit the pedals of the bike next door if I don't pay attention. Again, it's just different, not really an upgrade unless you ride fat often.

For what it's worth, I ordered the 2 place 2" receiver only rack with two add-on's. Once I got it and used it, I ordered a 1 place / 2" receiver rack as I didn't want to deal with the now cumbersome Thule T2. Now I can mix and match racks between 1, 2, 3, or 4 bikes between our 3 cars and camper as needed. I put the 2 place on the camper hitch and fold up the 2 add-on's which go in the camper. Once I get to where we are going, it takes more time to unload the bikes than it does to move the rack to the truck and install the add-on's. So that's my 5 minute overview on the rack options.

And as always, it's useless without pictures.


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## RX93 (Apr 30, 2018)

^ What trailer do you have?

Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

RX93 said:


> ^ What trailer do you have?
> 
> Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?


I think this is what you're looking for but I would call them to double check.
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/add-on-frame/


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

RX93 said:


> ^ What trailer do you have?
> 
> Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?


I think TonyRide1 is correct but I'm not sure how it will all fit together. I know the trays on the hitch mount racks are two piece but I would think that it would still work with the two mounting holes in the add on frame.

That's a [email protected] CS-S. We don't get to use it as much as we would like but it's great. The kids sleep in the Land Cruiser and the misses and I get the camper.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

BXCc said:


> I think TonyRide1 is correct but I'm not sure how it will all fit together. I know the trays on the hitch mount racks are two piece but I would think that it would still work with the two mounting holes in the add on frame.


If you read the description for the Roof Rack tray it says " Easily converts to Hitch-Mounted Rack or Add-On ". I believe it is the "Add-On" version he's looking for.
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/roof-rack/


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

I converted my one up roof trays to hitch, on the hitch the 2 piece sleds just led you fold up instead you just use the carriage bolts in the roof sled and postion them over holes and bolt through bottom of hitch base. Been a long while but I had to call 1Up and order the hitch without sleds/trays that standalone part was not on website at the time. 

If in doubt call 1Up they will answer and take care of you make sure you get what you need.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

tonyride1 said:


> If you read the description for the Roof Rack tray it says " Easily converts to Hitch-Mounted Rack or Add-On ". I believe it is the "Add-On" version he's looking for.
> https://www.1up-usa.com/product/roof-rack/


Yup, that was my thought process. I have just never done the conversion so I can't speak for certain. Looks straight forward though


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## bsechris (Oct 9, 2018)

I just received my rack today. I am impressed by the build quality but have one complaint and a few comments that I thought people should know about. 

I have the 2 bike rack model and ordered the EZ pull since I didn't want to reach under every time even though it is just 2 bikes right now. My one complaint is with the handle, it doesn't protrude very far from the end of the rack and I can only put my fingers up to the first knuckle in the gap to grab the handle. I am disappointed with this as it is just too short and not as well thought out as the rest of the rack. I will be contacting one up about this and seeing if I could possibly get the bars for the 3 bike rack and cut them down myself. 

Next are just comments about the rack that I had not seen mentioned other places. (I read lots of online reviews and most of this forum)
1. The black knob around the golden bar in the tilting mechanism can be twisted down to lock the rack in place. I can't see the tilting mechanism falling, but it is nice to have that extra feature if needed. 
2. All of the locks I ordered secure by a thread in the lock. Different from the normal locks that just have a recessed groove like most hitch locks. I assume this is a more secure design as any attempts to break it are loaded over all the threads instead of just one groove. 
3. The add-on lock is another bolt that locks from the other side. I wasn't sure what it was at first but made sense once I started putting together the EZ-pull. I could use this lock to lock the EZ-pull to the rack but haven't decided if it's worth it. 
4. The security bolts on the one up are nice, but I would not trust them to be theft resistant at all. Tamper resistant Allen keys are super easy to come by now and it is just a normal size. 

Hope this helps someone.


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## bsechris (Oct 9, 2018)

Just posted before but have a question and thought the two posts could be separate for less confusion. 

I was wondering what the quality of the light bar sold by one up was? I can only find one mention of it on one forum. Hoping to find some other feedback as it would be nice to get that one since it will probably play nicer with the rack. 
Here is the quote: 
"I did buy that POS of a light bar that 1UpUSA sells for $90. It interferes with the fat bike kit on one of the add-ons I have and the wiring is just ridiculously flimsy and poorly thought out."


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Anyone use the 1up hitch extender? Any advantages or disadvantages than buying another brands hitch extender plus a locking pin?


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

*Yes*



rhynohead said:


> Anyone use the 1up hitch extender? Any advantages or disadvantages than buying another brands hitch extender plus a locking pin?


Have had mine 2.5 years maybe a little more no issues holding up well. Nice that it uses same tool as rack. I recommend it.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

HEMIjer said:


> Have had mine 2.5 years maybe a little more no issues holding up well. Nice that it uses same tool as rack. I recommend it.


Thanks for the quick reply. Any wobble?


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

rhynohead said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. Any wobble?


Nope the security bolt keeps it tight.


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## blylek (Oct 21, 2007)

Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.

Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

blylek said:


> Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?


I don't have the EZ pull handle ( actually on V2 of my DIY handle), but can definitely say that you have to move the rack slightly to make sure it doesn't bind when trying to pull the bar. It is pretty easy to "learn" the motion, but till you do it consistently, it is hard to release the tilt mech.

Not sure that helps you much, but ...


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## Skyking1231 (May 1, 2018)

blylek said:


> Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?


mine used to be like that..... but now it works great. i think the little wear that occurs allows the handle to work better. i guess when they make the racks, the tolerance is quite small....maybe too small in this case.


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## blylek (Oct 21, 2007)

Yea the tolerances seem to be pretty tight. Looks like I'll just have to use it more often!
Appreciate the replies!


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

blylek said:


> Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"?
> 
> Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?


I don't have the EZ pull handle (I only have a 1 bike rack), but I occassionally lube the notches that the bar fits into.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

aski said:


> Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
> I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


No issues with it loosening up. I've had my 1up for 8yrs and have never had an issue with the bolts that hold the second tray.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

aski said:


> Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
> I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


I have a single (2" only), a double, and 2 add-ons and I've never had an issue. If you don't see a need to carry 4, then I would go with the single and 2 add-ons. The single is just easier to handle and it fits better on vehicles with a hatch. The single can be folded up on our Subaru Crosstrek and the hatch is still useable. Big plus if you don't want to remove it all the time.


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

BXCc said:


> I have a single (2" only), a double, and 2 add-ons and I've never had an issue. If you don't see a need to carry 4, then I would go with the single and 2 add-ons. The single is just easier to handle and it fits better on vehicles with a hatch. The single can be folded up on our Subaru Crosstrek and the hatch is still useable. Big plus if you don't want to remove it all the time.


I'm on a 17 Outback. I have a single I use 80% of the time. I picked up an older double and bought an add on for use with the kids. Had trouble with a bolt but other than that it fits well.

Caveats are HEAVY and not fun when lowering the rack for access to the back. BUT I still think it's one of if not the best out there.


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## curran.crawford (Jul 15, 2017)

I need 4 bikes out back sometimes; single base rack only allows two add ons for three total, so went 2+1+1. Love it!


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

aski said:


> Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
> I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


I haven't had any problems with the bolts loosening. Recently I got a lock from 1UP USA which replaces one of the bolts and without a key it cannot loosen up.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

tonyride1 said:


> I haven't had any problems with the bolts loosening. Recently I got a lock from 1UP USA which replaces one of the bolts and without a key it cannot loosen up.


I hadn't seen that on their site before you mentioned it. Thanks.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

aski said:


> I hadn't seen that on their site before you mentioned it. Thanks.


Yup. I also got 2 wheel locks. When you order all the locks at the same time they will key them all the same and you get 2 keys per lock. So with the 3 locks I got (2 wheel locks and 1 Add-on lock) I got 6 keys and they're all the same. Plus you get a 15% discount when you order 2 or more wheel locks. The wheel locks have 2 sizes depending on whether you have the fat tire spacer kit or not.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

aski said:


> Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
> I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


No, I have a single plus an add-on, and I've never had it loosen at all. 6 years with mine now.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

aski said:


> Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
> I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.


Nope. None. I've had these racks for 8+ years and more than 20,000 miles and never been an issue.

Because of the design, the angle is such that the faces of the ads ins are not a verification surface. That also adds side to side friction eliminating any play and therefore loosening.

I'd get the single and two add ons. One of the biggest advantages of this system IMHO is the modularity. Personally, it bugs me to have that extra tray hanging out there when I don't need it.

The other big advantage to the single tray stage is how easy it is to store and move compared to the double. I hang mine on the wall in the garage and I don't think I could effectively do that with a double. Also, lugging the double tray unit is a lot more work than the single which my wife can do one handed.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

I wish they could come up with a “package” offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a don’t care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didn’t really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

TheUnknownRider said:


> I wish they could come up with a "package" offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a don't care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didn't really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...


What do you mean by "package"?

If you're ordering a single, you have two options. One is for a 2" receiver and the other is for a 1.25" receiver but includes a 2" receiver shim. As for add-ons, unless you're rocking 40 plus pound bikes, there is no need for the super-duty, the standard ones are more than sufficient.

That being said, if you don't see the need to ever carry 4 bikes, definitely get the single plus whatever add-ons you may need. It's just lighter and easier to use (on and off vehicle).


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## eonicks (Mar 3, 2011)

TheUnknownRider said:


> I wish they could come up with a "package" offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a don't care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didn't really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...


It's pretty straight forward. Do you have an 1.25" hitch or 2" hitch? Do you want to carry up to four bikes, or is three sufficient?

I find the 1.25 inch works great since I normally only carry one bike, and keep on the car all year round. The rest of the items are nice to have accessories, but not required.


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## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

I love this rack-but it is just a rack and it works like a rack should---holds my bike--I find it funny that it has 3661 posts and nearly 750000 views---more than almost any bike on the forum---go figure


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

I want the single quick rack, which is the 1.25”/2” cheapest version, and how this thread started before it morphed into super thread status. By package I mean lock sets, accessories, etc. It seems like they might offer some recommended packages like just the rack, possibly rack & security, mid-level accessories option, then maybe a full premium heres the kitchen sink deal all included. You know; actually marketing a product trying to generate as much sales as possible, making it as easy as possible to order without having to plan it out like a world tour. 

I can sympathize with people who gripe about 1up sort of taking their customer base for granted. Seem like friendly people and all talking to them on the phone, but not interested in product development or marketing much. I suppose as long as Quik-Rack and Saris advertise BS and never actually deliver it’s no problem. Pretty sweet business position to be in.

well sorry for griping, was just a bit on edge after a long day at work and became annoyed/frustrated by the process is all ...


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

TheUnknownRider said:


> I suppose as long as Quik-Rack and Saris advertise BS and never actually deliver it's no problem. Pretty sweet business position to be in.
> 
> well sorry for griping, was just a bit on edge after a long day at work and became annoyed/frustrated by the process is all ...


Saris was giving one away in an mtbr contest - they said Spring 2019

Yeah, must have been a rough day. Can't be bothered to do a few clicks and research when spending a bunch of money, but time to whine on the internet?


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Well it’s more than a few clicks and maybe if you know it in and out it makes sense to you, but for people less familiar it’s not so clear. However, I can take it as well as dish it out, so your response is fair enough. 

Which I didn’t realize that the Kuat Transfer 1 was already out. For $220 msrp it has my attention at the moment and it is just a few clicks the way they laid it out. So it was just as well I held up.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

UnknownRider, you made me chuckle, maybe first time I read a post on MTBR complaining about lack of marketing for a bike product. 

So many posts on this rack about security, tons of great DIY stuff for security or activating the lever. Or you can buy 1up locks, straight forward. 

Enjoy the rack and the hype. 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Well I’ve been on the web for practically 25 years now. Usually don’t have a problem, but for some reason I end up just leaving their site without buying, several times now over the six months. Maybe it’s something else. I read the thread. Could just be me being stupid or having some kind of mental block. Wouldn’t be the first time, not likely the last either. 

Brightened up my day knowing somebody got a laugh out of it though


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Plenty of other options out there. 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Yeah thanks. If I just wanted a rack by itself, no problem, but I’m in an apartment for the time being with no garage. So I’d prefer being able to receive and install it securely without having to plan and make various trips & fitups to do the ideas and solutions suggested here. If I had my own place it wouldn’t be any issue coming up with all my own solutions, tricks, and cluges. That’s just not how it is at the moment though.


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Does anyone know if the trays on Super/Heavy Duty are the same as Quick Racks? Just has different size hitch?

I’m asking because my 1.25” hitch quick rack is wobbly and My handle grip would bang on the window when I hit a small dip even with only 1 tray/bike. Even worse with 2 bikes. Since they don’t make 2” hitch for my car, I’m unable to swap to that option but maybe the trays are built with less movement/play on their Super/Heavy Duty models and I can just buy the trays to swap out the noodle trays that I have.


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## ChaseN (Jun 18, 2013)

How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ChaseN said:


> How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....


It literally takes a minute to put an add-on rack on to the main rack. There's beauty in its simplicity. It takes me a little longer because I got a lock to secure it to the main rack so it takes a couple of minutes to work the lock but without a lock it is very straight forward.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

ChaseN said:


> How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....


Very easy, to put on and take off the extra tray.

A big selling point for me was that it could do exactly what you are thinking.

Much gets made of how convenient a bike rack is to use with the bike, but IMO how easy it is to deal with the REST of the time is even more important.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

kapusta said:


> Very easy, to put on and take off the extra tray.
> 
> A big selling point for me was that it could do exactly what you are thinking.
> 
> Much gets made of how convenient a bike rack is to use with the bike, but IMO how easy it is to deal with the REST of the time is even more important.


Exactly my thoughts as well.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I take my 2nd rack on and off a lot. There are two bolts. Yes, about 1 minute.
Concerning questions about the trays, call the company; they're helpful. I believe the trays are all the same as i originally bought a roof rack tray and then later used it as part of a hitch rack setup.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

Tjay said:


> Does anyone know if the trays on Super/Heavy Duty are the same as Quick Racks? Just has different size hitch?
> 
> I'm asking because my 1.25" hitch quick rack is wobbly and My handle grip would bang on the window when I hit a small dip even with only 1 tray/bike. Even worse with 2 bikes. Since they don't make 2" hitch for my car, I'm unable to swap to that option but maybe the trays are built with less movement/play on their Super/Heavy Duty models and I can just buy the trays to swap out the noodle trays that I have.


I believe the trays are all the same. Most of the wobble you are describing comes from the 1.25" shank on the rack that fits into the hitch. Obviously 1.25" is less torsionally stiff than 2". Aluminum is also less stiff than steel, and most other racks have a steel shank so they are stiffer. The rest of the wobble comes from the combination of the way the tray arms hold the wheels and the profile of the tire tray, which isn't as secure as other wheel clamping racks.

How far are you inserting the rack into your hitch receiver? Maybe you can pull it out a bit to get more clearance between the handlebar and rear window.

When first got a 1up rack the overall amount of wobble in it was very unnerving. I eventually got used to it, but this is also one of the reasons I ended up selling it.


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## ChaseN (Jun 18, 2013)

Thanks guys. I got my rack in today. Got to put my hitch on the car this weekend and see how it all works!


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

JustMtnB44 said:


> I believe the trays are all the same. Most of the wobble you are describing comes from the 1.25" shank on the rack that fits into the hitch. Obviously 1.25" is less torsionally stiff than 2". Aluminum is also less stiff than steel, and most other racks have a steel shank so they are stiffer. The rest of the wobble comes from the combination of the way the tray arms hold the wheels and the profile of the tire tray, which isn't as secure as other wheel clamping racks.
> 
> How far are you inserting the rack into your hitch receiver? Maybe you can pull it out a bit to get more clearance between the handlebar and rear window.
> 
> When first got a 1up rack the overall amount of wobble in it was very unnerving. I eventually got used to it, but this is also one of the reasons I ended up selling it.


Thank you. I have pulled it out some and although it helped from not hitting the rear window, the wobble got worse! 1UP said to buy their lock kit to tighten the insertion to the hitch but I'm done buying chit from them. I'll just use the hitch anti-wobble that I already have and see if that would help. If not, I'll have to use a pool noodle and stick in the handlebar.


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## curran.crawford (Jul 15, 2017)

Has anyone put a long tail cargo bike on one of the super have duty racks? Wheelbase for some of them like RadWagon and Tern GSD should fit length wise, wondering about gripping on the wheels etc

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## forgetaboutit905 (Jan 13, 2019)

considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes) 
I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
is this possible or am I missing something?


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

I read on one of these threads that 1Up used to say "up to 4" for the QuickRack at some point in the past but then changed to the current guidance. I don't know why.


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## Organ (Jan 30, 2004)

forgetaboutit905 said:


> considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
> has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes)
> I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
> is this possible or am I missing something?


You would have the extra weight further from the receiver though, which creates leverage and downrates its capacity. Your class III or IV receiver will be fine but to me that seems like a lot for the 1 1/4" piece of aluminum. One-up sells the piece to make your rack 2".


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## curran.crawford (Jul 15, 2017)

forgetaboutit905 said:


> considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
> has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes)
> I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
> is this possible or am I missing something?


Issue is the base 2 bike unit is built as one unit, so starting with a single base unit and bolting on 3 isn't as strong as starting with 2 base unit and bolting on 2 singles.

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## forgetaboutit905 (Jan 13, 2019)

Yes I get this just more options with the single with 1 1/4 and 2 " adapter
the majority of the time would only be 1 or 2 bikes sometimes 3 and the very rare 4bikes(twice a year) so I was really hoping it would be possible without issue that I could go this way without going to the 2" double.
Cheers


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

briantortilla said:


> Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.


There is nothing to corrode from weather except probably the handle spring. Everything else is aluminum with a little bit of plastic and stainless hardware.
1up has anodized finish, but unavoidable bar surface scratches will allow for galvanic corrosion. Keep in mind that if you leave the rack in receiver for months, the unavoidable galvanic corrosion will bond them, and it may become very hard to detach the rack from receiver.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

Newbikeman said:


> What's to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?


All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

kosulin said:


> There is nothing to corrode from weather except probably the handle spring. Everything else is aluminum with a little bit of plastic and stainless hardware.
> 1up has anodized finish, but unavoidable bar surface scratches will allow for galvanic corrosion. Keep in mind that if you leave the rack in receiver for months, the unavoidable galvanic corrosion will bond them, and it may become very hard to detach the rack from receiver.


On mine, the long bolts that go through the stabilizers that hold the tires are not stainless, and pretty rusty after a few years. I've been meaning to replace them with stainless if I can find them. I end up moving the stabilizers on occasion, which is the only reason I was even aware of this.

Other than that.... as you say, there is not much to rust.

I leave mine on quite a bit in the salty North East winters.


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## biscut (Sep 11, 2015)

I have a single black one I leave on all year in northeast winter. So far a ok on year 2.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

biscut said:


> I have a single black one I leave on all year in northeast winter. So far a ok on year 2.


have the silver stainless on now 2.5 years...Central Ohio winter (1 inch of snow...10 inches of salt!!!). It is fine!


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

kapusta said:


> On mine, the long bolts that go through the stabilizers that hold the tires are not stainless, and pretty rusty after a few years.


Interesting. Do you mean bolts that attach tire spacers to bars?
I checked mine, and you are right, there are bolts that are most likely yellow zinc galvanized, including bolts that hold tire spacers. These will rust if the coating is damaged.


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## mbmb65 (Jan 13, 2004)

kosulin said:


> All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.


A cable and lock.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## porDIOS_porSANTO (May 23, 2017)

Hello, anybody here that insert the hitch ball less than 2 inch? Maybe insert just 1.25 inch? I have a 3rd gen Rav4 with the spare tire, the pedal might hit the spare tire cover.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

porDIOS_porSANTO said:


> Hello, anybody here that insert the hitch ball less than 2 inch? Maybe insert just 1.25 inch? I have a 3rd gen Rav4 with the spare tire, the pedal might hit the spare tire cover.


I have the same vehicle (2008 RAV4) and I'm able to insert it 2" without the pedal scratching the spare tire as long as I have the pedal at the 6 O'Clock position.


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## porDIOS_porSANTO (May 23, 2017)

Thanks, I also saw your pic yesterday on google search but I wasn't able to find anything 3rd gen rav4 with 1up side shot/picture. I have a flat pedal (OneUp composite), you must be using clipless?


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

porDIOS_porSANTO said:


> Thanks, I also saw your pic yesterday on google search but I wasn't able to find anything 3rd gen rav4 with 1up side shot/picture. I have a flat pedal (OneUp composite), you must be using clipless?


I had clipless pedals but I've switched to flats. Still no issues.


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## Vtbikologist (Feb 1, 2016)

1Up sells a hitch extender; might be worth considering.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

Vtbikologist said:


> 1Up sells a hitch extender; might be worth considering.


that is what I got for my 2010 RAV4...works fine. I had a 2"hitch put on the car so I am running 2" hitch -> extender -> 1Up 2 rack system (with plans to get the 2 bike add on this spring)


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## porDIOS_porSANTO (May 23, 2017)

sXeXBMXer said:


> that is what I got for my 2010 RAV4...works fine. I had a 2"hitch put on the car so I am running 2" hitch -> extender -> 1Up 2 rack system (with plans to get the 2 bike add on this spring)


How is the wobble/side to side play comparing to without an extender?


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

This is what I use on our 2014 Wrangler. I don't notice much difference with it versus being on our vehicles with straight 2" hitches. The anti rattle device makes a huge difference though so I would definitely go with one of those. Total is $35 which is significantly cheaper than the 1up option.

Cal Hawk Tools CZHBME08 8" Receiver Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXXI4XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HXgwCbMRHKGZ8

Curt Manufacturing 22321 Towing Wiring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWR3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yVgwCbGMXMM0N


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

porDIOS_porSANTO said:


> How is the wobble/side to side play comparing to without an extender?


I never used it without the extender so I would not know that element of it, but it can get wobbly on rougher roads (gravel/neglected country), when the it is empty. (It lives on the car 24/7). With bikes, it is more stable, again, unless I am on rough road. Side to side is not as bad as up and down though. It has been to Central Michigan from Central Ohio about 5-6 times in the past 3 years loaded, and have had no problems...also been to Lake Placid from Central Ohio once


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## porDIOS_porSANTO (May 23, 2017)

My rack came in today, I got this for $500 CAD ($380 USD) from the 2018 Share the Ride PB winner. Talk about luck.

Happy to share that with 2 inch of insertion on the hitch, the pedals are 1.5 inch from the spare tire cover. Thanks a lot for your responses.









1up Heavy duty on 2009 Rav4 Sport


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

porDIOS_porSANTO said:


> My rack came in today, I got this for $500 CAD ($380 USD) from the 2018 Share the Ride PB winner. Talk about luck.
> 
> Happy to share that with 2 inch of insertion on the hitch, the pedals are 1.5 inch from the spare tire cover. Thanks a lot for your responses.
> 
> ...


sweet...you got it all!!!

Cool car, cool bike, cool rack, cool weather and SNOW!!! Get out there and ride!!


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## peanuthead (May 31, 2004)

Is it possible to use a wheel-lock as a hitch lock?


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## MustG0Faster (Aug 27, 2012)

IIRC, the hitch lock is shorter length than the wheel lock. 


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

kosulin said:


> All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.


Correction after I disassembled the rack for a damaged part replacement:
1) contrary to what was stated to me by 1up customer service rep, I haven't found any bolts secured with Threadlocker. I managed to disassemble the rack using wrench with long handle and cordless screwdriver, no heatgun involved.
2) Unscrewing 4 bolts that attach side panels to the hitch bar does not detach them from the hitch bar as side panels have slots where the hitch bar is nested into.
3) However, the rack can be easily detached from hitch bar in less than minute by unscrewing the long threaded pin that goes through the tilt pipe, and is secured by 2 nuts on both sides of it. All you need is a wrench and cordless screwdriver. Additional security measures, such as long U-Lock, is a must if the rack is left unattended!


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## tullynation (Mar 22, 2018)

In case anyone is wondering, current 2" 1up racks have a slot machined in the hitch tongue. Now you can put a hitch pin (or locking hitch pin) through the hole in your receiver and through the slot. Because it's a slot and not a hole, you can still adjust the depth of rack insertion. Racks are sold with a "locking hitch pin" - so instead of using a lock to block access to the securing screw, you simply lock the rack to the hitch directly. No need for a velcro strap or u-lock unless you want extra security.

This thread has really helped me. Thank you: I plan to buy a Super Duty single (because I have a 2" receiver and want a 2" hitch) and a Heavy Duty Add-On (I'll only ever need to transport one or two bikes).

I plan to get silver since black, apparently, fades with time and UV exposure.

I'll probably buy the 1up Add-On lock - feedback seems pretty neutral. I suppose it would be possible to just padlock or u-lock the Add-On to the base rack though? Maybe a padlock wouldn't fit over the junction between the two. It sounds like the 1up Add-On lock significantly slows down the process of adding/removing the Add-On...

What I haven't decided on is wheel locks. I'd be getting them just as a deterrent, but it seems like a super-heavy chain or cable would be faster and a bit more secure than the wheel locks.

I also haven't decided on the EZ Pull addition... worth the money if you're only using a single + Add-On at most?

Also: the Thule Helium Platform that was supposed to be available this month has been delayed until 2020.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

tullynation said:


> This thread has really helped me. Thank you: I plan to buy a Super Duty single (because I have a 2" receiver and want a 2" hitch) and a Heavy Duty add-on (I'll only ever need to transport one or two bikes).
> 
> I also haven't decided on the EZ Pull addition... worth the money if you're only using a single + add-on at most?


Nice pick. That's my preferred set up. I have a 2" heavy duty double as well but the single super duty is just easier to deal with due to smaller size and less weight.

No need for the EZ pull. It seems like a great idea but I found that it's a solution to a very minor issue. Then you also have the hassle of removing it when you remove the add-on.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I have the Super Duty Single, with 2 single add-ons. Wanted 2" , ability to haul 3 bikes when needed, and something strong enough for ebikes. 

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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

I always use the rack lock and add-on locks, but wheel locks - only occasionally, when needed. IMO they offer better protection than any cable, and I need only one key for everything!
Speaking about hitch pin - I would avoid using it; 1up ball saved me a lot of money when my rack hit a curb when backing off - the rack just moved slightly deeper into receiver. With pin I would get a broken rack.


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## tullynation (Mar 22, 2018)

kosulin said:


> I always use the rack lock and add-on locks, but wheel locks - only occasionally, when needed. IMO they offer better protection than any cable, and I need only one key for everything!
> 
> Speaking about hitch pin - I would avoid using it; 1up ball saved me a lot of money when my rack hit a curb when backing off - the rack just moved slightly deeper into receiver. With pin I would get a broken rack.


Sounds good. I think we'll get the wheel locks - at least two of them if not four.

Regarding the rack sliding during a low-speed collision, since the hitch pin passes through a long slot (not a single hole) in the rack hitch tongue, it could still slide in the receiver depending on where in the travel the pin happens to be. But this is definitely a point worth considering... Perhaps the "u-lock" method would be best after all.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

The fixation with securing the rack is odd. The Velcro strap works. I use 2 when I carry 3 bikes. 

But if you want belts and suspenders, go for it. 

Given all the 1Up haters on MTBR, wouldn't you think that theft would be played up? U stead, we get staged bullshit from competitors and Cal's oent up volcanic insanity eruption. 

This us one if the best products as is, high price, made in THE USA. DON'T SWEAT IT. 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


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## djxpress (Sep 30, 2015)

Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.


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## Levelheadsteve (Mar 2, 2010)

djxpress said:


> Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.


Why? Need more weight capacity?


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## djxpress (Sep 30, 2015)

getting one for 2 bikes, plus I want a 2" vs the 1.25" and an adapter.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

djxpress said:


> getting one for 2 bikes, plus I want a 2" vs the 1.25" and an adapter.


There is STILL a three bike limitation for the 2 inch single super duty. The 1-1/4 plus the adapter for 2 inch is more versatile, and 3 bike max is the same. Only the 2 inch 2 bike carrier can carry up to four bikes with extra carriers

I've had my 1UP since 2012 (1-1/4" version) and I use it on my SUV with the adapter (2 inch) , and also have an extra 1Up carrier. Never had an issue. I needed the 1-1/4 at the time because 1UP only made a two bike version for 2 inch receiver, and I had a camper with a 1-1/4 inch receiver on the back. I would carry one or two bikes on MTB trips, then transfer the 1UP over to the SUV (2 inch ) for the weekend. Could not wish for a better system.


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## djxpress (Sep 30, 2015)

I still feel like using the 2" super duty one is better and sturdier. If I ever needed to put it into a 1.25" I could buy an adapter. Also I've read the newer produced ones have a hole now for the hitch pin (I could be wrong) making it a safer bet from coming out of the hitch. I have the 1.25" and hate how the little L adapter with a single bolt holding it on is the only thing that's keeping pressure inside the hitch to prevent it from coming out. I'd hate to have 2 x $3k bikes on the back relying on this sole mechanism.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

djxpress said:


> Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.


It's cheaper to buy the parts you need than to sell your rack and buy another.
https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hitch-bar-with-side-plates/


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

Space Robot said:


> Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.


Not really, but its a one time investment.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

$599 - Thule T2 Pro XT 2 -2" 
$799 - Saris MTR 2
$649 - Kuat NV 2.0
$589 - Kuat NV Base 2.0
$569 - 1up 2" double heavy duty
$598 - 1up 2" single plus one add-on 

The cost of these racks is inline with everything else. Maybe a bit more when comparing it to mid to low end racks but that's not a fair comparison. If I was going to spend $600 on a bike rack and didn't need to carry 4, the 2" single with one add-on would easily get my vote. After using Thule racks for the last 15 plus years, I can say that they have a quality product and amazing customer service. With that being said, I would still pay full price for a 1up before buying anything else at 25% off. You don't find them on sale or used for a reason, and it's completely justified in my opinion.


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks guys, good to know. I was looking at a RockyMounts Split Rail on sale for $399 which is pretty much my limit. I have their Brass Knuckle roof rack and haven’t had any problems with it. I’d have to go with a single tray 1Up at that price level. But I’d rarely need to carry two bikes anyway so I’m looking closely at it.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Space Robot said:


> Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.


Wait and see if there is competition from some of these other companies, otherwise--no.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Space Robot said:


> Thanks guys, good to know. I was looking at a RockyMounts Split Rail on sale for $399 which is pretty much my limit. I have their Brass Knuckle roof rack and haven't had any problems with it. I'd have to go with a single tray 1Up at that price level. But I'd rarely need to carry two bikes anyway so I'm looking closely at it.


 I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge. I didn't get it.

Ended up with the 1up 1 bike rack. It's way less rack to tote around, I can open my trunk without having to fold it down and my dog can even jump right over it to get in the back of my SUV.

Turns out I do sometimes take two bikes though, so I ended up needing to order the add-on rack after a while. It attaches or removes in less than 30 seconds. I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

JScoot said:


> I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge.


It seems all of the competition is failing to realize that the overall size does matter. I was loading up two bikes on my wife's Subaru Crosstrek this morning using the 2" single and one add-on. For giggles, I folded it up against the vehicle and tried to open the rear hatch. It cleared by an inch or two. That's a huge selling point. When I had the Thule T2 on there, it was always in the way. It's either folded up rendering the hatch useless, or it's in the bike carrying position and you have to wiggle in between the rack and the car to use the back cargo space. It definitely wasn't a rack that you would want to leave on 24/7.


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## John (Apr 25, 2004)

JustMtnB44 said:


> It's cheaper to buy the parts you need than to sell your rack and buy another.
> https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hitch-bar-with-side-plates/


I didn't know about this. Good link! Nice upgrade if you don't require the 1-1/4 inch at all.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

JScoot said:


> I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.


You'd better take it off once in a while, say, every 3-4 months, for inspection, otherwise you may have problems with 1up bar being stuck in hitch receiver thanks to galvanic corrosion.
1up prevents corrosion by anodizing all aluminum parts, but the layer is thin and is not scratch resistant.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

kosulin said:


> You'd better take it off once in a while, say, every 3-4 months, for inspection, otherwise you may have problems with 1up bar being stuck in hitch receiver thanks to galvanic corrosion.
> 1up prevents corrosion by anodizing all aluminum parts, but the layer is thin and is not scratch resistant.


Hmm, okay, I'll check that. What do you use to prevent corrosion, a little WD40?


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Just try to keep the interior of the hitch clear of rust and you’ll be fine. A little WD40 on the ball wouldn’t hurt.


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## tullynation (Mar 22, 2018)

BXCc said:


> Just try to keep the interior of the hitch clear of rust and you'll be fine. A little WD40 on the ball wouldn't hurt.


I asked 1up about this last week when I ordered my rack. We didn't discuss WD40 but they advised against a light coating of grease. He actually told me to wrap the hitch in a layer of electrical tape prior to insertion. I'm somewhat skeptical. Also concerned that WD40 on the ball might prevent secure clamping inside the receiver.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

Ya, I wouldn’t coat the whole thing. Just a little something to keep the ball from seizing up.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I just picked up a heavy duty double on Tuesday, super fast shipping and great vs. As far as the rack itself, I purchased it just die to fitment on my Jeep Wrangler and the high ground clearance. As far as function, meh...it's a little discerning to see my bike wobble so much at highway speeds, wouldn't of expected that at this price point. Don't get me wrong I haven't lost a bike and I know I never will but the only rack I've had this much movement was on a Kuat Transfer.


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Bummer. Does the rack move in the hitch or the bikes move around in the rack? Is it the 2” version?


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

bdundee said:


> I just picked up a heavy duty double on Tuesday, super fast shipping and great vs. As far as the rack itself, I purchased it just die to fitment on my Jeep Wrangler and the high ground clearance. As far as function, meh...it's a little discerning to see my bike wobble so much at highway speeds, wouldn't of expected that at this price point. Don't get me wrong I haven't lost a bike and I know I never will but the only rack I've had this much movement was on a Kuat Transfer.


If the rack is wobbly at the hitch, you may have a problem. The ball is supposed to lock it up tight, I can move my car before I can get the rack to wobble. The bike itself is also very tight to the rack, with the arms snugged up to the tires I see no way for the bike to move. Are you tightening the arms to the point that they are slightly depressing (digging into) the tires?


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move. The only cure is for a fork mount rack or something that holds onto the frame. I got a little less movement out of my Thule T2 but it also contacted the fork. If I pulled the T2 arm away from the fork, the movement was similar.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Space Robot said:


> Bummer. Does the rack move in the hitch or the bikes move around in the rack? Is it the 2" version?


 2 inch and super tight in the hitch.



JScoot said:


> If the rack is wobbly at the hitch, you may have a problem. The ball is supposed to lock it up tight, I can move my car before I can get the rack to wobble. The bike itself is also very tight to the rack, with the arms snugged up to the tires I see no way for the bike to move. Are you tightening the arms to the point that they are slightly depressing (digging into) the tires?


Not moving in the hitch but yeah even with the tires compressed so much I can hardly trip the mechanism to release them and it still wobbles.



BXCc said:


> With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move. The only cure is for a fork mount rack or something that holds onto the frame. I got a little less movement out of my Thule T2 but it also contacted the fork. If I pulled the T2 arm away from the fork, the movement was similar.


Yeah it's just the design but it fits my vehicle good so... Never had any movement with my rm monorail, t2, or Kuat nv but yeah everything will be ok, just surprised a bit.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

My admittedly cheap and easy security solution. Also instills more confidence than a velcro strap.


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

BXCc said:


> With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move.


Huh. Maybe my standards aren't high enough, but I haven't considered tire flex when taking corners or hitting bumps to be the same as frame movement. The tires retain contact with the rack and the arms at all times, and all that's allowing any visual movement is compression of the air in the tires, right? Seems good enough for me 😊.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

JScoot said:


> Huh. Maybe my standards aren't high enough, but I haven't considered tire flex when taking corners or hitting bumps to be the same as frame movement. The tires retain contact with the rack and the arms at all times, and all that's allowing any visual movement is compression of the air in the tires, right? Seems good enough for me ?.


Correct. Well, that's how I see it anyway. The pivoting of the headset adds to it as well.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

All racks have some sort of movement.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

The wobble of the bikes in the trays was the thing I disliked the most about the 1up rack I had. It just doesn't inspire confidence, even though I know it isn't possible for the bikes to come out. The way the rack only holds the tires with relatively low angle surfaces instead of a cradle or hook is the main contributor to it.

Other racks I have used had much less bike to rack wobble, but may have had more wobble in other places such as the tilt pivot, hitch interface, or the structure of the rack itself.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

JustMtnB44 said:


> The wobble of the bikes in the trays was the thing I disliked the most about the 1up rack I had. It just doesn't inspire confidence, even though I know it isn't possible for the bikes to come out. The way the rack only holds the tires with relatively low angle surfaces instead of a cradle or hook is the main contributor to it.
> .


I can understand that.

Under normal circumstances The movement is not very much and I am fine with it. However When I use the fat bike adapter with road/gravel tires, there is more movement than I would like. It holds, but I do not have full confidence. I rigged up a second set of cross-pieces to use with road/gravel tires.


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## SLAYER2015 (Jun 26, 2015)

For those interested in a few picks of the new Saris MTR, I got mine today. A co-worker of mine got his new black 1up with the new hitch receiver yesterday. There are pros/cons of each. 

The new 1up hitch is much better than before and the locking pin is nice. The saris one hand tightens, but then you need to use a wrench to eliminate all wobble play. But once tightened, it is very solid with no play. Lock is nice.

The saris definitely has more plastic. All important parts are metal as they should be. Plastic is mostly to cover the ratchet mechanisms and the pull handle.

Pull handle on saris is probably better than 1up just for where it is located. The saris slides/ratchet mechanism is rotary compared to one up. This is where the plastic covers are on the saris rotary mechanisms. 
The saris levers to work the arms are better than 1 up as it is not finicky to be just right horizontal level.

The saris integrated cable locks are nice. And there is a lock for each tray or bike rather than looping a single lock through all like my kuat did. Saris came with 3 keys that all work for hitch pin lock and the cable locks.

So, is it worth the $150 difference? Hard to say. If they were both $650 and side by side in store it would be hard to choose. I like both.

The new bike comes tomorrow, so then I can see how it all works as intended.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

SLAYER2015 said:


> For those interested in a few picks of the new Saris MTR, I got mine today. A co-worker of mine got his new black 1up with the new hitch receiver yesterday. There are pros/cons of each.
> .


Can the cross bars that hold the tires on the Saris be moved down as far as the ones on the 1UP can?


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## SLAYER2015 (Jun 26, 2015)

Hi. Not sure about the 1up. But Saris is optimized down to 20".


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

JScoot said:


> I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge. I didn't get it.
> 
> Ended up with the 1up 1 bike rack. It's way less rack to tote around, I can open my trunk without having to fold it down and my dog can even jump right over it to get in the back of my SUV.
> 
> Turns out I do sometimes take two bikes though, so I ended up needing to order the add-on rack after a while. It attaches or removes in less than 30 seconds. I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.


Thanks, I started thinking about this and 95% of the time I'll only have one bike to carry. So the smaller 1 bike Quick Rack is really appealing. Add to that, when I do carry another bike, it will likely be a kid's bike with 16" wheels. I can't find any other platform racks that will go down this low. Makes it harder for me to justify the RockyMounts or anything else.

I've been reading about finish issues on the 1Up which gave me pause, but I just went out and looked at my two roof racks and they are getting a beat down. Scratched/flaking paint, faded plastic. Nothing stays nice for very long. Maybe a reason to go with the silver version though. If the powdercoat flakes, it won't be as noticeable.


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

I have the 1.25 hitch and its wobbly too! A friend of mine has the same in his WRX and his too wobbles. I wonder if the 2" version Super Duty wobbles less? Mine is even worse when I have two bikes back there. It bounces off of my back window (I have a Kia Soul) that I have to put pool noodle at the end of the bar end to eliminate the chance of the grip cracking the back window. I also make sure I have locks after locks. I'm sure it's not going to fall out but you just never know with this bike racks bouncing around all over the place.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

SLAYER2015 said:


> Hi. Not sure about the 1up. But Saris is optimized down to 20".


Actually, it is not small wheels, but rather full coverage fenders I had in mind. I would need to get a measurement to know for sure if that rack would work, but the fact that they specifically talk about it is a good sign.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Tjay said:


> I have the 1.25 hitch and its wobbly too! A friend of mine has the same in his WRX and his too wobbles. I wonder if the 2" version Super Duty wobbles less? Mine is even worse when I have two bikes back there. It bounces off of my back window (I have a Kia Soul) that I have to put pool noodle at the end of the bar end to eliminate the chance of the grip cracking the back window. I also make sure I have locks after locks. I'm sure it's not going to fall out but you just never know with this bike racks bouncing around all over the place.


"You just never know"....how do you manage with this contraption? You'd have no problem selling it for top $$$ in a day or two, and getting something that is bike wobble free.

When I got my first roof rack, Yakima King Cobra (forget the version), I was so worried that I had installed the bars incorrectly that I had a friend drive behind me to report what bike and rack were doing. I had that rack for 10+ years, never lost a bike, despite mounting with flat tires, despite mounting with improper tightening of front wheel clamp, i.e., completely loose, despite Santa Anna winds pushing the entire set several inches backwards on the roof, etc.

When I got my 1upUSA rack, I wasn't aware of this "wobble issue" until I read about it on MTBR.

If you have bikes bouncing off the back window then you should consider how far the rack is inserted into the hitch, or whether the bikes need to be offset of each other in the trays. I carry 3 bikes on a Super duty single with 2 extras and don't hear wobble noise, nor does anything hit the rear window.

It is possible to enjoy these racks, never lose a bike, and never have the rack stolen , "we do know."

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## SLAYER2015 (Jun 26, 2015)

So, I finally got the new bike built and used on the new rack. Thing is solid and works awesome as expected.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

SLAYER2015 said:


> So, I finally got the new bike built and used on the new rack. Thing is solid and works awesome as expected.


Are those plastic hinge covers new? Did they come with the rack or did you fabricate them?


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## SLAYER2015 (Jun 26, 2015)

?? This is new, stock Saris MTR 2 rack fully assembled out of the box...


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Oh, that's not a 1UP Rack.


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## mountaincyclist (Jul 15, 2018)

Is anyone using the new 1UP slotted hitch bar? Did the slot properly line up with the receiver holes?


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## djxpress (Sep 30, 2015)

mountaincyclist said:


> Is anyone using the new 1UP slotted hitch bar? Did the slot properly line up with the receiver holes?


I have the 2" hitch with the slotted bar. It lines up with my hitch hole, though the slot isn't as big as the circumference of the hitch hole. It lines up with about 3/4ths of the hitch hole which is more than enough for the lock that's included with the hitch. It's also a welcome addition as there is no more velcroing the hitch rack to the hitch. With the hitch lock on, there's no way the rack can fully slide out from the hitch if the ball mechanism were to loosen too much.


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## mountaincyclist (Jul 15, 2018)

djxpress said:


> I have the 2" hitch with the slotted bar. It lines up with my hitch hole, though the slot isn't as big as the circumference of the hitch hole. It lines up with about 3/4ths of the hitch hole which is more than enough for the lock that's included with the hitch. It's also a welcome addition as there is no more velcroing the hitch rack to the hitch. With the hitch lock on, there's no way the rack can fully slide out from the hitch if the ball mechanism were to loosen too much.


That slot seemed like a clever design, but making it not centered is pretty deceiving since it will not line up with standard hitch holes. This means you're stuck with using the included lock, which for me doesn't fit on my hitch.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

I'm sure the answer is "no problems," but ...

I'm looking at a couple of these new loooong 29'ers -- Ibis Ripmo and Yeti SB150 to be specific. I put a large Ripmo with 2.6" tires on the rack for a demo on Saturday. There seemed to be not a lot of purchase with the arms on the wheels, certainly far less than I'm used to with my 26". And the SB150 is a bit longer still...

Has there been any issues with these longer bikes on a quick rack? Provide me with some comfort, lol.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

What about getting some replacement "bent arms" and adding a little length to the arms. There are 7 holes in the arms. Cut the bend off of the replacement arms and bolt them to the existing arms with 5 bolts. That will leave two new holes to extend the overall length of the arms. That should allow for the arms to bite a little higher on the wheel. 

I'm not sure if that would be needed and it will cost $80 plus hardware, but it should help ease your worries.


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## mellymtb (Aug 1, 2014)

Just used my 1up 2 bike rack for the first time (4 hours round trip). Performed flawlessly and was extremely happy with how secure the bikes were and there was zero movement while driving.


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

ahkim said:


> Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble.


May very well not lead to any serious problems, but yeah, I would be a little unnerved too after seeing that. I'll probably be in the market for a new bike and rack in the coming year, and the Ripley and 1up are very high on the list. It does seem that if the clamp arms were just a bit longer, stability might improve. Maybe I just don't remember, but it doesn't seem like I've heard many others with big tired 29ers having this problem?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

ahkim said:


> I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.


Have you contacted 1Up about that and showed them the video? Curious to hear what they have to say.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

ahkim said:


> I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.


My Evil Offering does the same thing, absolutely ridiculous.


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

cjsb said:


> Have you contacted 1Up about that and showed them the video? Curious to hear what they have to say.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have not reached out to 1up but I will. I might have a video from my rear dash cam when it was VERY wobbly, to show them how bad it can be. I love the rack but if this happens even 25% of the time, I guess I'll be looking for a new rack again.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

I've always seen a bit of wobble on mine, more so with 29ers. I think seeing it through the cam makes it look worse than it does in the mirrors. Never hurt anything.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.

@ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

aski said:


> I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.
> 
> @ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?


Also, a velcro strap over the wheel and the rack tray makes a big difference. I have a couple from the kuat fatbike kits that work on 1up racks, too. But the wobble is not a big deal. I have driven thousands of miles with no trouble.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

Harold said:


> Also, a velcro strap over the wheel and the rack tray makes a big difference. I have a couple from the kuat fatbike kits that work on 1up racks, too. But the wobble is not a big deal. I have driven thousands of miles with no trouble.
> 
> Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk


Yeah, I see where strapping that front wheel in a second location would help prevent wheel twist.

What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

aski said:


> What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?


I've logged thousands of miles with a L Banshee Prime and a XL Yeti 5.5. Both shod with big AM tires.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

aski said:


> What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?


2 big bikes. Salsa Bucksaw 26 x 4 and a Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead in 29 x 2.6" flavor. I put the Pedalhead in my 1up tray with the fatbike kit and my wife's Juliana Furtado goes in the other. Less wobble on her bike. Less wobble on my Bucksaw. More wobble on the Pedalhead in the wide tray with the fatbike kit. A strap calms the wobble a lot.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk


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## Alafia (Jun 30, 2016)

When I first got my 1Up it had a slight up/down wobble no matter how tight I cranked it. On one of the threads here it was suggested to lift the rack up while tightening. Wobble disappeared for me. ymmv


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Alafia said:


> When I first got my 1Up it had a slight up/down wobble no matter how tight I cranked it. On one of the threads here it was suggested to lift the rack up while tightening. Wobble disappeared for me. ymmv


watch the video. not the same wobble.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

aski said:


> I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.
> 
> @ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?


Yes, that would help I think. I know just by pushing on my 26" Enduro vs. the longer 29'ers, I can tell that there is less movement with the 26. The 26 inch bike is shorter and smaller wheels and so the arm reaches nearly to the top of each tire.

On the 29er, the arm grips the tire well in front of the axle and so the fork can easily twist. On the 26 inch, being near the axle, there is much less twist. I mean, push on the front of your tire and the middle of the tire and see which makes the bars turn easier.

Good to know others are having no issues with long 29 inch bikes on the rack. That is comforting.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

So now I need to use a wheel strap on my brand new fairly pricey rack if I don't want my bike to wobble all over?? I'm only keeping this thing because it fits my Jeep better than anything else I've tried.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

evasive said:


> I've logged thousands of miles with a L Banshee Prime and a XL Yeti 5.5. Both shod with big AM tires.


Multiple 12-18 hour days on the road with this combination without issue.










The 5.5 is longer, and now I have the fatbike spacers, but still no issues on 12 hour drives.


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## pctloper (Jan 3, 2016)

Does this thread have more responses than most any bike on these forums---crazy---I have a 5 year old model and no issues beyond getting rear ended and crushing the first one.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

evasive said:


> Multiple 12-18 hour days on the road with this combination without issue.
> 
> The 5.5 is longer, and now I have the fatbike spacers, but still no issues on 12 hour drives.


I'm sure there won't be any issues, I still don't have to like it. It just shouldn't wobble so much for how much it cost. I'm happy your happy but people need to know all the facts and there is a chance the bike could move around quit a bit.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

pctloper said:


> Does this thread have more responses than most any bike on these forums---crazy---I have a 5 year old model and no issues beyond getting rear ended and crushing the first one.


Yes. Just my opinion as to why: the vast majority of new owners are blown away by the rack compared to what they used previously.

It sets expectations very high, but all of these racks from all companies have trade-offs. Roof rack, trunk rack, hitch rack, suction cups, cross bar/hanger rod, tail gate, or DIY fork mounts somewhere on your vehicle. All have trade-offs-none are perfect.

If one of those trade-offs really bothers a person, or it actually impacts negatively how they use it, then I'd be miffed too if it wasn't really apparent until after I started using it.

The post above of the video showing the sway, it would concern me, too. Still, I can either send it back with no shipping cost within 60 days, or i can try and get some resolution from 1Up, i.e., ask for some money back or an accessory (make some lemonade). I can also try my own fix and see if i can live with it. If the latter doesn't work for me and it's past the 60 days, then I can try and sell it, which won't be a problem.

If it were me, I would ask 1UP whether I got a lemon and should ship back for a replacement (free of all charge to me), ask them how it can be best addressed, or demand an accessory for free if I have to live with it and it's past free shipping full refund time and they still won't take it back for free.

Another reason the thread gets so many "claims", which isn't the case here, is that 1UP is a small company that put a big dent in rack sales for the competition, even when 1UP was charging so-called outrageously higher prices. So a few hacks have posted with countless issues, some even staging the rack detaching from the vehicle...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.


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## M320 (Mar 22, 2013)

del


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## M320 (Mar 22, 2013)

ahkim said:


> I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.


I have been using my 1up rack for about a year now. Very few racks will fit my super long XXL Hightower 50in wheel base. I run 2.6 front and 2.35 rear tires. The arms being lower on the wheels does lead to some wobble but it has never been major issue for me. I drive 90 miles per day sometimes 3 days a week with my bike at high speeds. It wobbles, really bad when passing a big rig at 80mph, but its not going anywhere. Im sure 1Up will update this rack at some point to fit the longer bike / bike tire trend a bit better, but you bike is not going to fall off by any means. Still hands down the best rack out there. Best customer service also..... IMO


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

bdundee said:


> I'm sure there won't be any issues, I still don't have to like it. It just shouldn't wobble so much for how much it cost. I'm happy your happy but people need to know all the facts and there is a chance the bike could move around quit a bit.


Cool story, bro. The question



aski said:


> What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?


was asked, and I provided an answer based on my experience.


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

aski said:


> You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.


That's a great idea. I'll try to move my bike so it clamps high on the front wheel. I'll report back.

As I previously mentioned, the video does not show how bad it was, it was moving 2-4 times as much and I was worried about the other bike scratching my bike.

My bike is Medium.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

ahkim said:


> I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.


Wow, have never seen this with my bikes, but these are all hardtails, including 29+ Stache, 29, 27.5, and 24. I suspect the wobble is caused, or made worse, by rear suspension of the bike. Can it be be locked down? If yes, is the wobble same bad?


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

kosulin said:


> Wow, have never seen this with my bikes, but these are all hardtails, including 29+ Stache, 29, 27.5, and 24. I suspect the wobble is caused, or made worse, by rear suspension of the bike. Can it be be locked down? If yes, is the wobble same bad?


It isn't the suspension. It is because of how the rack is designed -- I don't think they have changed this rack much in 10 years, before long 29'ers were even a thing, lol. The longer the bike is, the less purchase the arms have on the wheel -- they can't reach anywhere near the top of the wheels. Look at the video and the arm on the front wheel. It is covering like 20% of the wheel is all. It looks like you could just about pick the bike up out of the rack without undoing the arm. You couldn't, but if it were just a little bit lower you could. On my 26" bike, the arm reaches to nearly the top of the front (and rear) wheel. Maybe when I get home I can post a picture of the 26" bike to compare. If the arms were, say, 2" longer, I think it would be in there as securely as shorter bikes are.

I think the wiggle is originating from the front. I am going to do as mentioned and get the arm up as high as I can on the front wheel. Well, when I get my bike, that is! That should prevent the handlebars/fork from twisting.


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## bim6180 (Sep 7, 2017)

Tystevens said:


> It isn't the suspension. It is because of how the rack is designed -- I don't think they have changed this rack much in 10 years, before long 29'ers were even a thing, lol. The longer the bike is, the less purchase the arms have on the wheel -- they can't reach anywhere near the top of the wheels. Look at the video and the arm on the front wheel. It is covering like 20% of the wheel is all. It looks like you could just about pick the bike up out of the rack without undoing the arm. You couldn't, but if it were just a little bit lower you could. On my 26" bike, the arm reaches to nearly the top of the front (and rear) wheel. Maybe when I get home I can post a picture of the 26" bike to compare. If the arms were, say, 2" longer, I think it would be in there as securely as shorter bikes are.
> 
> I think the wiggle is originating from the front. I am going to do as mentioned and get the arm up as high as I can on the front wheel. Well, when I get my bike, that is! That should prevent the handlebars/fork from twisting.


I have never experienced this with my bike, and i have one of the longer FS bike - Kona Process 153 29 size XL. I've never locked my suspension, and everything is solid, even on highway speed. It obviously will wobble if you go through rough back-roads. The way the rack is designed, unless the two arms "failed" and open up, i don't see any way the bike can fly out of the carrier.


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## bim6180 (Sep 7, 2017)

And for what it's worth, for my bike, each arm does 5 clicks to secure the bike. I have 2.5 WT front and 2.3 rear tires, both minion DHF


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

ahkim said:


> That's a great idea. I'll try to move my bike so it clamps high on the front wheel. I'll report back.
> 
> As I previously mentioned, the video does not show how bad it was, it was moving 2-4 times as much and I was worried about the other bike scratching my bike.
> 
> My bike is Medium.


Agree that this is a great suggestion. In the video looked like arm is dwarfed by front wheel.

I never thought about wobble but notice on mine that sometimes I press arm on front wheel too hard and the front half if tray pivots. I eased back on force and started making sure the arm was higher on front wheel v. Rear.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

aski said:


> You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.


This seemed to help some with mine, thanks!!


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## DH40 (Jan 14, 2004)

Bump.


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

*Sent email to 1Up about sway and bounce*

I'm posting as an FYI but I sent an email to 1Up asking if what I'm experiencing is normal.

I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.

Here's a video showing the bounce with 4 bikes, do you guys get the same with your 1Up?


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

ahkim said:


> I'm posting as an FYI but I sent an email to 1Up asking if what I'm experiencing is normal.
> 
> I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.
> 
> Here's a video showing the bounce with 4 bikes, do you guys get the same with your 1Up?


When I had a two bike 1up it didn't bounce like that but did have a lot of sway like in your other video. That is one of the reasons I sold it and now use a Saris Superclamp instead. What didn't you like about your Superclamp 4 that made you get the 1up instead?

The bounce is likely related to the excessive weight you have hanging off your hitch; a fully loaded 4 bike 1up is heavy, and with that long of a cantilever, you could be exceeding the tongue weight of your hitch. The hitch itself could be flexing, or even the vehicle structure, depending on how the hitch is mounted.


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## apnk (Mar 25, 2018)

Is that a 1.25 in hitch? ^^^ that may be part of the issue?


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

[HR][/HR]t


ahkim said:


> I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.


Same car with the old racks? Guessing not.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

I see the 2" 1up bounce with 4 bikes, and do not worry much. This is aluminum, it flexes.


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

JustMtnB44 said:


> When I had a two bike 1up it didn't bounce like that but did have a lot of sway like in your other video. That is one of the reasons I sold it and now use a Saris Superclamp instead. What didn't you like about your Superclamp 4 that made you get the 1up instead?
> 
> The bounce is likely related to the excessive weight you have hanging off your hitch; a fully loaded 4 bike 1up is heavy, and with that long of a cantilever, you could be exceeding the tongue weight of your hitch. The hitch itself could be flexing, or even the vehicle structure, depending on how the hitch is mounted.


The main reason I bought the 1Up is the ability to convert from 2 to 3 to 4 bikes. The add ons store in their box and are out of sight in my garage. I later found out they sell a piece that allows you to convert the rack into a 2 bike.



apnk said:


> Is that a 1.25 in hitch? ^^^ that may be part of the issue?


It's the 2" rack/hitch.



J_Westy said:


> [HR][/HR]t
> 
> Same car with the old racks? Guessing not.


Same car with all 3 racks. The only change is that I swapped my Tesla tow hitch to another brand because the Tesla hitch has a quick release receiver which limits the tongue weight. The new hitch has a 700 lbs tongue weight. The Saris did not move at all so it has something to do with the 1Up.

I received an email from 1Up and they said the movement is normal behavior. They offer something called a Quik Slide which I couldn't find on their webpage. They say it can help with larger longer bikes. They also suggested to tighten down the wheel clamps further.

As for bounce, they said to tighten down the bolts on the side as the notches allow for some movement.

I'll report back after I try these things.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I like the look of those Quick slides, let me know if you find a way to order them.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

ahkim said:


> Same car with all 3 racks. The only change is that I swapped my Tesla tow hitch to another brand because the Tesla hitch has a quick release receiver which limits the tongue weight. The new hitch has a 700 lbs tongue weight. The Saris did not move at all so it has something to do with the 1Up.
> 
> I received an email from 1Up and they said the movement is normal behavior.
> 
> As for bounce, they said to tighten down the bolts on the side as the notches allow for some movement.


Well, I agree with 1up that it's normal, but it does look unsettling. We had the same on my wife's Wrangler.

Some contributors:
- 1up has a lot of space between bikes so the moment/torque/twisting-force is higher than some other racks
- Al isn't as stiff as steel (for the same size)
- The way the verticle part of your hitch hangs down it makes the moment arm effectively a little longer

Don't sweat it, but can you insert the rack farther into the receiver?


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## Scott In MD (Sep 28, 2008)

After 8 years with a Super Duty Double, I ordered a new 1-1/4 single tray so I would not have to keep switching from vehicle to vehicle (first world problems, right?) . 

1-Up is still great. Period. The lightweight, low-profile single is awesome for everyday use. 

If you are reading this because you are considering a rack >> my vote is (still) 1-Up.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

after watching the vid, that is nor more or less than I experience with Super Duty Double on my RAV 4, (3 years old rack; 2" Reese aftermarket hitch installed at my local mechanic; Surly Krampus 29+ and Fuji Nevada 26er are the bikes that are usually on the rack) and have never had any trouble with the bikes getting damaged, or the rack coming out...

80% of my usage is "in town" on the way to the trail sites, so road conditions range from great to scary; 

the other 20% is on vacation in Michigan or the Adirondacks on gravel/fire roads (after High way travel getting there) and even on the fire roads, I never worry...

granted, I rarely hit RR tracks as fast as you did, even with nothing on my car, and on the fire roads, if you travel faster than 25mph, the whole car will come apart...so there is some common sense that I think the companies assume people are going to use when driving and using their products


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## Rock (Jan 13, 2004)

str8edgMTBMXer said:


> so there is some common sense that I think the companies assume people are going to use when driving and using their products


You had me until this.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

Rock said:


> You had me until this.


well, I was making a statement, not a judgement, and I think that people would say it is true. Sadly, many will be offended by this, but whatever...

as far as the RR track thing, when I saw that in the vid, I was like "geez, that was fast"...and I am willing to bet other people would make the same comment...I would fear there is possibility for damage to more than the bike rack in that instance...


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## ahkim (May 13, 2019)

I wanted to post an update that I received the Quik Slide. Even though it clamps a bit higher on the tire, I still get a lot of sway. It'll be a nice feature for those who need to adjust for different tire sizes on a regular basis. While I'm sure the bike/car/rack is fine, I'm going back to my old rack, it's cheaper and works just as well. One observation is that the bike sway doesn't look as bad in the rear view mirror, but since I use my backup camera while I have bikes on back, I think the sway is more noticeable. I loved the quality and features of the 1Up so I'm disappointed it wasn't for me.
















1UP does have a new rack (Equip-D) with wider trays and longer clamp arms. Looks like a bunch of great improvements.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Is the Quik Slide on their website now? I can use a pair of that.


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## scepticshock (Jun 6, 2005)

Those arms look longer than mine. They should hold better. I have a Ripmo with 2.5 tires and it still holds nice and steady. Push those bars into the tires. There is more sway when I am loaded up with 3 bikes


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Here's my $0.02 on this wobbling thing, since the only parts of the bike that touches the rack are the tires you have to expect some wobbling of the bike when it is secured in the rack. The amount of wobble can vary depending on the amount of air you have in the tires. The more air you have the less wobble you'll see, conversely the less air in the tires will result in more wobbling. This is especially prevalent if you're running tubeless with low air pressure. The wobbling include the front wheel steering a bit from side to side as well as the entire bike going back and forth. This is because there are no bars or arms resting on the frame or fork to keep the bike from wobbling. The way I see it is that as long as the two arms of the rack securing the tires don't open up then there's no way the bike can come off. With the bike on the rack I tried to shake and pull the bike off the rack and it's not going anywhere. Yes, I was able to shake it and move it around a bit but it was all tire rubber movement and the bike isn't going anywhere. Of course if you're carrying multiple bikes you need to make sure that you've positioned the handle bars, saddle, and pedals of the bikes in such a way so that they're not slapping into each other. At most you may need to remove a pedal or two. Meaning if you're carrying two bikes and no matter what you do a pedal will hit the other bike. In that case all you need to do is remove that one pedal. If you're carrying 3 bikes then only remove the pedals from the middle bike. Carrying 4 bikes then remove the pedals from every other bike.


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## jidoe (Apr 3, 2005)

*My 1up rack sits on an angle... how can I make it level?*

Hey guys,

I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I've attached pics of my hitch and the rack secured into it.

Thanks!


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## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

jidoe said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.
> 
> ...


How much wobble does it have before you tighten the expansion ball down?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

jidoe said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.
> 
> ...


No, it is not common. Either the hitch receiver is crooked or the rack is.

If it is the rack, then it looks like it would be the piece that goes into the receiver must be welded to the plate it attaches to crookedly.

Have you tried the rack in a different receiver or a different rack in yours?


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

jidoe said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.
> 
> ...


I have this problem on my Tacoma, not my Mazda3.

I ordered the receiver from etrailer. The first one the rack was tilted to one side, very noticeable. Returned it, got this one and still tilted very minimal, but I think I'm returning it.

My rack is levelled on my Mazada3 but I don't use the 2" adapter. I don't think that's the issue, even though they (etrailer) said they checked the 2nd receiver before shipping.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

Does anyone have the new Equip-D yet? Thinking about returning my QR heavy duty and getting one in the hopes the longer arms help some.


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## aski (Oct 12, 2006)

bdundee said:


> Does anyone have the new Equip-D yet? Thinking about returning my QR heavy duty and getting one in the hopes the longer arms help some.


I would think 1up would post some additional photos or a video highlighting the differences with the new rack?


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

aski said:


> I would think 1up would post some additional photos or a video highlighting the differences with the new rack?


Right!?!?! As it stands right now not really a lot of info on it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

My rack sits pretty parallel with 3 different vehicles I've had it on. I'm thinking it could be your receiver hitch.


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## yeti0200 (Mar 28, 2019)

How much longer does the quickslide make the arms? wheelbase of my bike is about 49.2" so the arms sit pretty low if they are set up equally.


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## g-t- (Dec 22, 2004)

aski said:


> I would think 1up would post some additional photos or a video highlighting the differences with the new rack?


@johnprolly owner of @theRadavist has been demoing one go to his Instagram page ( may 26 ) to see a video of the rack in action

It's a $100'sh more than the superduty and you lose the little blue arms to quickly fold the arms down to store compacted. You need a tool or tighten it like you do you brake levers on the bars so you can still move with a bit of force I suppose.

Arms are longer and it the ez pull is built in. No more red lever either it's replaced by a button for a much easier slide engagement.

Looks promising but there's no real must have unless I was buying a new rack outright I guess I'd like to see one in person but it's only been a few weeks released publicly.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

TheRadavist's review is here - https://theradavist.com/2019/07/use...cking-1-up-usas-new-equip-d-double-bike-rack/

Cliff Notes: He liked the old one better for trucks / vans because it sways less. He thinks this one is better for smaller cars / sedans.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

cassieno said:


> TheRadavist's review is here - https://theradavist.com/2019/07/use...cking-1-up-usas-new-equip-d-double-bike-rack/
> 
> Cliff Notes: He liked the old one better for trucks / vans because it sways less. He thinks this one is better for smaller cars / sedans.


That LC80 though!


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## jidoe (Apr 3, 2005)

jidoe said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.
> 
> ...


Hey guys, just wanted to update you on this. Turned out that the Curt hitch was defective. Luckily the shop that installed the hitch replaced it and didn't charge me any labour. I've posted a photo showing the hitch insert tube which was not level. With the new hitch on the car, My 1UP rack sits perfectly level.


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## Martin3141 (Sep 17, 2019)

I just got my 1up rack this week and wanted to post a modification/addition I made to it already. While there are reflectors on the ends, I wanted to add on some LED brake/turn/running lights to increase safety when a bike is covering my tail lights on the car. Here are the lights in action mounted to the rack with 3M double-sided tape for now. I will probably swap to hook and loop when I get a second tray so I can move the lights as needed. It's hard to see in the video, but the lights are on low all the time and full when brake or turn signals are on.


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## qdawgg (Jun 21, 2007)

Anyone ever buy a single rack in any version and then end up buying 2 additional single add-ons to be able to hold 3 total? 

I only need one carrier 80%+ of the time, it would be nice to not have a double rack in my way all the time when I need to get into the back of my SUV. It looks like a single, I might be able to lift the hatch of my SUV without dropping bike rack down like I need to do with my current Thule (not really current since the whole insides rusted out in less than 4 years and it's now just scrap). 

However, my 5 year old is riding more and then if my wife tags along there are times I could use the ability to have 3 bike racks. 

So am I better off getting a double and purchasing 1 add-on? My concern is buying a single rack then 2 additional add-ons, might not be as secure as the double with a single attached to it. I'm not really worried that with 3 singles the bikes will fall off but more just the amount of movement bolting 3 singles together as opposed to bolting one single to an existing double. 

Hopefully that all makes sense. Thanks.


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## M320 (Mar 22, 2013)

qdawgg said:


> Anyone ever buy a single rack in any version and then end up buying 2 additional single add-ons to be able to hold 3 total?
> 
> I only need one carrier 80%+ of the time, it would be nice to not have a double rack in my way all the time when I need to get into the back of my SUV. It looks like a single, I might be able to lift the hatch of my SUV without dropping bike rack down like I need to do with my current Thule (not really current since the whole insides rusted out in less than 4 years and it's now just scrap).
> 
> ...


I use a single and had two adds on with 3 bikes on a 9 hour trip to kingdom last year and no issues at all. Solid.


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

I have a 2x, 1x and 2 add-ons. If you don’t need 4, definitely go with a single. Easy to load and unload with one hand. It’s just as stable as a 2x with a +1. My wife has a 2017 GX460 with a rear swing out door and it clears fine. The hatch on the Subaru Crosstrek we had would clear with the 1x folded up. Hope that helps.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

I have a single with two add-ons. Works great.

Like you, I just need a single most of the time, and it folds up against the bumper and I never have to mess with it to get in and out of the back of my Outback. This was the major selling point for me with this rack.

I go about 5 months out of the year with just the single as my wife does not like riding when it is cold out.

I use the second tray a bit during the warmer months. It is not that big of a deal to move it when I want to get in and out of the back, but I am glad to be rid of that second one when I know I won't need it. Of course, it is not more in the way than any other rack.

I don't use the third much, maybe a couple times a year. Seems perfectly solid to me. Any wobble that is present is coming from the interface with the hitch receiver, so I don't think using a double with a single add-on would be any different.


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## vcolf (Apr 8, 2006)

I have a superduty 2” single with 2 add ons. Has anyone tried going with 3 add ons despite the guidance to only do 2(3 bikes total)? 


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## qdawgg (Jun 21, 2007)

Thanks for the responses @M320 @BXCc @kapusta

Exactly the responses I needed since I've been going back and forth on this for way too long. Thanks a lot for the info.


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## virgilhega (May 27, 2020)

vcolf said:


> I have a superduty 2" single with 2 add ons. Has anyone tried going with 3 add ons despite the guidance to only do 2(3 bikes total)?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 My concern is buying a single rack then 2 additional add-ons, might not be as secure as the double with a single attached to it. I'm not really worried that with 3 singles the bikes will fall off but more just the amount of movement bolting 3 singles together as opposed to bolting one single to an existing double


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

There's no movement between the main rack and the add on from what I can tell when I put mine on.

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## Doub1e_R (May 22, 2020)

vcolf said:


> I have a superduty 2" single with 2 add ons. Has anyone tried going with 3 add ons despite the guidance to only do 2(3 bikes total)?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd like to know this as well. Need a 4 rack, but most of time will be me riding by myself. I would rather get the single rather than double, and if I can do 3 addons that would be perfect.


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## vcolf (Apr 8, 2006)

my uneducated guess is, it depends on the weight of the bikes and quality and rating of the receiver of the vehicle. The superduty model it built like a tank, I have zero concerns about a single sd plus 3 sd add ons. I would be more worried about the car its going on and the bike weights. For xc bikes or road bikes anything with a class 3 hitch should be able to handle it. For heavy bikes I think >= class 4 should work. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of leverage a tongue load ratings will chime in. My assumption is anyone with a Superduty rack has a SUV or Truck with a decent receiver. 


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

vcolf said:


> I have a superduty 2" single with 2 add ons. Has anyone tried going with 3 add ons despite the guidance to only do 2(3 bikes total)?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


a little late to the convo, but I have this set up - SuperDuty 2", and have 2 add ons to make it a 4 tray rack. I have used it now on 2 trips from C-bus to the upper part of main-land michigan on my RAV4 with no problem. I mean, it weighs the car down, but I never felt like it was dangerous

here it is a few eeks ago. It lives on my car in the summer. Looks sort of corny, but I don't care about that








here it is the morning before last years trip. Total of 7 bikes on the car!! I was getting 2 mpg, but there were all 7 of us on a trip that was planned around biking as the main mode of transpo once we got there








all of the other gear/people were in my step-sons car...


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

wait seriously 2 mpg?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

qdawgg said:


> Anyone ever buy a single rack in any version and then end up buying 2 additional single add-ons to be able to hold 3 total?
> 
> I only need one carrier 80%+ of the time, it would be nice to not have a double rack in my way all the time when I need to get into the back of my SUV. It looks like a single, I might be able to lift the hatch of my SUV without dropping bike rack down like I need to do with my current Thule (not really current since the whole insides rusted out in less than 4 years and it's now just scrap).
> 
> ...


Yes-for several years. No problems. Super Duty 2" single with 2 single add-ons.

I would say about 95-100 pounds of bikes when all 3 on board. 70-75mph on highway, multi-hour trips-no issues.


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

cassieno said:


> wait seriously 2 mpg?


no, but that car had a lot of drag...probably more like 15, when I am getting about 23-25 normally


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

str8edgMTBMXer said:


> a little late to the convo, but I have this set up - SuperDuty 2", and have 2 add ons to make it a 4 tray rack. I have used it now on 2 trips from C-bus to the upper part of main-land michigan on my RAV4 with no problem. I mean, it weighs the car down, but I never felt like it was dangerous
> 
> here it is a few eeks ago. It lives on my car in the summer. Looks sort of corny, but I don't care about that
> View attachment 1343667
> ...


Tongue weight capacity on a RAV4 is 150 lbs. Exceeding the tongue weight by that much isn't normally considered "safe."

If you are going to be hauling that many bikes you can always get a trailer with a 4x8x2 box and run tailgate pads to have the bikes perpendicular and hanging over the side of the trailer, strapped down like crazy.


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## Alta825 (Mar 9, 2004)

As much as I have wanted to be a 1up Fan - I just can't..... Purchased a Super Duty w/ 2 extra mounts for the back of our Sprinter last Fall. While in 2 bike mode it's pretty solid however in 4 bike mode the sheer amount of Vertical Flex/Sway is absolutely unacceptable. Numerous times with our families bikes on rougher roads the bars have absolutely slammed the rear window to the point I expected it to shatter. And our bikes are all pretty light too boot - no heavy DH bikes or e-bikes.... And while stationary the closest bars are ~ 5" away from the window

Local family friends w/ a Sprinter as well have had the same experience with their 1up in 4 bike mode 

Sprinter/Transit owners you'll be better off with a Vertical oriented rack IMO. I'll be going back to a Northshore here shortly. Zero issues with the last one we had other than no road bikes which really isnt an issue for us....


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

If I'm going to be traveling any distance or on rough roads, I always loosen the stem and turn the bars 90 degrees. It's not necessary but it does help and I don't worry about lining up the bars with the seats. 

I've noticed that bikes on top do not affect the gas mileage as much as bikes on back. When we had our Subaru Crosstrek, one bike on back was worse than two bikes on top.


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Alta825 said:


> As much as I have wanted to be a 1up Fan - I just can't..... Purchased a Super Duty w/ 2 extra mounts for the back of our Sprinter last Fall. While in 2 bike mode it's pretty solid however in 4 bike mode the sheer amount of Vertical Flex/Sway is absolutely unacceptable. Numerous times with our families bikes on rougher roads the bars have absolutely slammed the rear window to the point I expected it to shatter. And our bikes are all pretty light too boot - no heavy DH bikes or e-bikes.... And while stationary the closest bars are ~ 5" away from the window
> 
> Local family friends w/ a Sprinter as well have had the same experience with their 1up in 4 bike mode
> 
> Sprinter/Transit owners you'll be better off with a Vertical oriented rack IMO. I'll be going back to a Northshore here shortly. Zero issues with the last one we had other than no road bikes which really isnt an issue for us....


I had an Element with a Kuat NV, the handle bar was close to the rear window where a couple times going over train tracks I heard a loud THUD, the handle bar smacking the rear window. Luckily I got rid of the rack before the bike broke the window.

So with that said, any platform rack where the handle bars are that close to the rear window will cause issue.


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## Alta825 (Mar 9, 2004)

BXCc said:


> If I'm going to be traveling any distance or on rough roads, I always loosen the stem and turn the bars 90 degrees. It's not necessary but it does help and I don't worry about lining up the bars with the seats.
> 
> I've noticed that bikes on top do not affect the gas mileage as much as bikes on back. When we had our Subaru Crosstrek, one bike on back was worse than two bikes on top.


yup, had to resort to that....will pass the rack onto the wife for her Highlander. she usually only hauls her bike and maybe 1 of the kids' and I had no issues in 2 bike mode. back to the NorthShore or p.o perhaps the Yakima Hangover for a van rack...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## str8edgMTBMXer (Apr 15, 2015)

SchralphMacchio said:


> Tongue weight capacity on a RAV4 is 150 lbs. Exceeding the tongue weight by that much isn't normally considered "safe."
> 
> If you are going to be hauling that many bikes you can always get a trailer with a 4x8x2 box and run tailgate pads to have the bikes perpendicular and hanging over the side of the trailer, strapped down like crazy.


it is a Reese Class III, 2" trailer hitch. tongue weight is 450 lbs. I had it installed after buying the car.

i only have more than 3 bikes on it once a year. I actually have been considering one of these:

https://www.prolinetrailersales.com...ll-trailers/5-x-8-enclosed-trailer-for-sale-2

but if things go my on Saturday, I will hopefully have a new Tacoma, which will change the hauling situation in a positive way!


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

^Tongue weight of a vehicle is the minimum of all parts. 

Example: If you built a bridge that was rated to hold 50 quadrillion tons on top of a glass coffee table, the glass table becomes your limiting factor on how much it can hold.


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

Right?!? That diesel LC80 is pretty sweet! That STILL is my favorite Toyota body. One day...

So... The 1up has made it to my short list. I like the all metal, tray platform, tire retention contact points, and access to replacement parts if needed. Most of the good racks seem to hover in this price point. At first I was looking for a single rack, but I am starting to lean towards a double as it would lend itself to being able to bring along a friend. So, two at most.

I am trying to nail down fitment though. I have a 2002 Toyota 4runner. I have a 4X Innovations rear swing out tire carrier loaded with 315x75x16 tire. 

The tire sticks out about 14" from the lip of the receiver.
The tire hangs down about 3" away from the top of the receiver. 

I called and talked to one of 1Up's techs and was trying to figure out if I needed the (reverse drop?) set up or not. Or... if I would just need to add an extender to make it work for me. I am trying to figure out what I can get away with and what might be better. I figure less parts and connections would be a better situation, but I am just trying to dial in what I might need. It looks like they will be available to order again July 17th. So I have a bit of time to figure it out.

I shouldn't have been too surprised when I got my new Ibis RAF, that it almost didn't fit in the back. Hahaha.. 29ers are a lot bigger than my old school 26er. 

What say ye? 

*pics coming. I hate the mobile platform for posting.*


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

RyderRider said:


> Right?!? That diesel LC80 is pretty sweet! That STILL is my favorite Toyota body. One day...
> 
> So... The 1up has made it to my short list. I like the all metal, tray platform, tire retention contact points, and access to replacement parts if needed. Most of the good racks seem to hover in this price point. At first I was looking for a single rack, but I am starting to lean towards a double as it would lend itself to being able to bring along a friend. So, two at most.
> 
> ...


Even if I were riding with a 2nd person and driving them, I'd still take the super duty single with an add-on. To me, the value of buying the double is if you plan to haul 4 bikes most of the time and have not other place for the 4th (roof won't work).

A single add-on is very easy to add to the super duty single, less than 5 minutes.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

RyderRider said:


> Right?!? That diesel LC80 is pretty sweet! That STILL is my favorite Toyota body. One day...
> 
> So... The 1up has made it to my short list. I like the all metal, tray platform, tire retention contact points, and access to replacement parts if needed. Most of the good racks seem to hover in this price point. At first I was looking for a single rack, but I am starting to lean towards a double as it would lend itself to being able to bring along a friend. So, two at most.
> 
> ...


If you have not seen them, 1up has very nice drawings with dimension of each rack on their website.


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

cjsb said:


> Even if I were riding with a 2nd person and driving them, I'd still take the super duty single with an add-on. To me, the value of buying the double is if you plan to haul 4 bikes most of the time and have not other place for the 4th (roof won't work).
> 
> A single add-on is very easy to add to the super duty single, less than 5 minutes.


Good point. Plus, I can buy the single and add the add-on later. Thank you.



OldHouseMan said:


> If you have not seen them, 1up has very nice drawings with dimension of each rack on their website.


I looked at the drawings on their page. However, the distances that would impact me the most are not known. I can get somewhat close using what measurements they DO have and subtracting against some of their other measurements, but it's hard to be sure. https://www.1up-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/100025_FITMENT-1.pdf

The guy on this youtube video has a jeep with a tire carrier. 



 ( I wouldn't be able to access the rear hatch given my tire carrier swing out design no matter what with the 1Up. I'm not too worried about that. I just am interested to know if the angle of the "up-plate" that comes out of the receiver would run into my tire in the ride, or stowed position.

The tech made it sound like the reversed down plate should solve my issue. In an ideal world, I could just fit test one and know for sure. But I imagine it should work with the custom request reverse plate configuration like the guy with the Jeep in the youtube video.


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## qdawgg (Jun 21, 2007)

So my quick review after having the rack for a couple weeks. Previously had a thule Pro XT which was a great rack but in just under 4 years the internals rusted out and a spot weld failed. I use the rack year round and it stays on the car even during the northeast winter. I'd love to take the rack off but my current distance from driveway to house, it's not happening after every fat bike ride to pull the rack off too to store inside.

So I decided on the 1up for a couple reasons. Primarily I felt the rack was going to last a lot longer than the Thule with all the plastic. As I researched I realized it would actually help a lot for trips to be able to carry 3 bikes now that my daughter is on a 20" bike instead of putting it inside my SUV. I'll never have a use for 4 bikes so the 1up gives me the ability to go from 1 --> 3 racks.

The rack is nice overall but I'm going to list some negatives too to give people some insight that are comparing different brands.
- 1up single rack is so easy to pick up and carry outside, I can imagine it'll be really easy to take off the vehicle too if I ever need to. Thule, for me, the rack is able to be taken off much the same way but is very awkward to carry around. Not comparing apples/oranges completely b/c the 1up I can take off and carry a single rack and the Thule its always going to be 2 trays. However, that's a plus for the 1up if you need to take the rack on/off frequently. 
- Black definitely looks nice. On the flip side, for the $1000+ I spent it would look a hell of a lot nicer if it didn't show up with scratches and little dings on it already. 

3 reasons I would pick the Thule over the 1up (and I would go back to the Thule in a second if it would hold up to rain/winter use)
- Moving the rack up and down is really really easy. It's a pain in the ass with the 1up for me even with a single rack. It's not hard to do but it was so easy with the Thule kind of took something so simple for granted. I can't imagine how big of a pain in the ass the 1up will be with 2 bikes on and I'm not even sure if I'll be able to do it with 3 trays/bikes on where as the Thule it would never be a problem. One issue is the handle on the 1up, when you pull it to release it doesn't release the whole width of the bar at the same time. So you get one side out of the safety notch and the other side is still stuck in there. Then sometimes you can't tell if they're both out or not. With the Thule, you pull the handle and you can feel the tension release.
- I'm sure I'll get better at this but it's still far easier to unload a bike from the Thule rack. With the 1up I can't release the red lever with 1 - 2 fingers, so I have to pull on the lever and hold it while trying to pull on the arm holding the tire to release some pressure. It's really not as easy to do as some people make it seem. Possibly I'm missing a trick but with the Thule I press the button with 1 finger and it releases. Because the arm is a hook, even when you release the bike it still holds the bike in place till you're ready to grab the whole bike
- No bike sway at all with the Thule. I've only had one bike on the 1up so far, the bike definitely moves around quite a bit. I drove on some pretty rough roads today and I was worried from what others said about the handlebar hitting my rear window. Luckily I didn't have that issue at all. So I'm not too worried about the sway and I know the bike isn't going anywhere. I am worried that with 3 bikes on the rack the bikes might hit each other which was never an issue on the Thule.

Overall I'm glad I got the 1up, it just wasn't the homerun/no brainer choice I thought it would be. I thought it would be far superior to what I already had and the benefits of it are that it will last a lot longer (huge plus) and I can easily go from 1 - 3 racks whereas the Thule its 2 or 4. But the ease of use on the Thule far surpasses the 1up. Even if I get the unloading the bikes dialed in a little bit better, which I expect it'll be easier as I use it. The ability to move the rack up and down on the 1up is not user friendly at all even with just a single rack. It's not hard but the Thule is just so much easier and as I said above, I can't imagine trying to drop the rack down with 3 bikes so I can get in the tailgate on a trip.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Tennis ball jammed onto the handleball. We have had to do that on a couple different racks depending on how they sit on the car.

Trick to release it is to start with the back wheel and loosen / push the bike back as a unit. I.e. don't worry about getting it out of the clamps yet, you are loosening up the front by pushing the back wheel back more. Once that's done you can get the front clamp off easily and then just pull the wheel out. It is always more fiddly than other racks though.

Tilting. Always a pain. For 2+ bikes you can buy a handle from one up that makes it easier. I know some people have fabbed together a handle to make it easier. 1Up really should have addressed this across the line-up.


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## jimglassford (Jun 17, 2018)

I currently have the Thule Pro T2 on my car. I have been considering the 1-Up options. In my case, I rarely have more than one bike on the rack. I leave the Thule on the car because the rack weighs so much to remove and when you try to carry the rack, it is awkward. I drive an Impala, not an SUV. The bike is up in the slip stream and at highway speeds, the bike is subjected to a lot of wind force pushing it backwards. The front tire is a 2.3 and when I get to my destination, the front tire is no longer sitting square in the tray. I am worried I will lose the bike if I drive too far on the highway. These are the reasons I have been considering a single 1-UP. 

I am concerned on the comments from people regarding sway. Is the bike swaying front to back as in the direction of the vehicle travel or is it a side to side?


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

jimglassford said:


> I currently have the Thule Pro T2 on my car. I have been considering the 1-Up options. In my case, I rarely have more than one bike on the rack. I leave the Thule on the car because the rack weighs so much to remove and when you try to carry the rack, it is awkward. I drive an Impala, not an SUV. The bike is up in the slip stream and at highway speeds, the bike is subjected to a lot of wind force pushing it backwards. The front tire is a 2.3 and when I get to my destination, the front tire is no longer sitting square in the tray. I am worried I will lose the bike if I drive too far on the highway. These are the reasons I have been considering a single 1-UP.
> 
> I am concerned on the comments from people regarding sway. Is the bike swaying front to back as in the direction of the vehicle travel or is it a side to side?


The bikes don't sway, they wiggle, and only side to side. The reason is the rack only clamps the tires...the rubber tires filled with air. So of course they'll wiggle. Only a little bit though and nothing to be concerned about.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## rstark18 (Apr 10, 2006)

jimglassford said:


> I currently have the Thule Pro T2 on my car. I have been considering the 1-Up options. In my case, I rarely have more than one bike on the rack. I leave the Thule on the car because the rack weighs so much to remove and when you try to carry the rack, it is awkward. I drive an Impala, not an SUV. The bike is up in the slip stream and at highway speeds, the bike is subjected to a lot of wind force pushing it backwards. The front tire is a 2.3 and when I get to my destination, the front tire is no longer sitting square in the tray. I am worried I will lose the bike if I drive too far on the highway. These are the reasons I have been considering a single 1-UP.
> 
> I am concerned on the comments from people regarding sway. Is the bike swaying front to back as in the direction of the vehicle travel or is it a side to side?


I have my rack on a Prius. Before the 1-Up I had a Yakima SingleSpeed. I was always paranoid about the bike on that rack. With the 1-Up I have zero concern. The bike can't fall off. Securing the bike is foolproof.

As far as sway, it does a little. If my bars were close to a back window I would be concerned that the bars would bump the window. Fortunately for me it isn't.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Silentfoe said:


> The bikes don't sway, they wiggle, and only side to side. The reason is the rack only clamps the tires...the rubber tires filled with air. So of course they'll wiggle. Only a little bit though and nothing to be concerned about.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


I thought there was post in this thread with a video of a bike swaying?

If I recall that seemed to be due to the clamp on his front wheel being too far down the tire?

The trays are designed to pivot and the front wheel/bars rotate, so there is some possibility to sway. You can minimize or eliminate by clamping front wheel higher at 90 degrees so the clamp is as high up on the tire towards 12 oclock as you can get.

I have not had sway while driving but I noticed when clamping the front wheel in the tray lower down on the tire, the tray pivots, so I clamp as close to 90 degrees as I can.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

cjsb said:


> I thought there was post in this thread with a video of a bike swaying?
> 
> If I recall that seemed to be due to the clamp on his front wheel being too far down the tire?
> 
> ...


Swaying is a serious side to side movement. A wiggle is small. I've owned two 1up racks since 2013 and I haul bikes all of the time. Everything from fat bikes to road bikes. I've never had them sway.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Silentfoe said:


> Swaying is a serious side to side movement. A wiggle is small. I've owned two 1up racks since 2013 and I haul bikes all of the time. Everything from fat bikes to road bikes. I've never had them sway.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


I have owned it for several years, too, I am with you on the solid performance of this rack--best I have owned.

Semantics aside, I like your use of the term wiggle, but there was a lot of movement, however one characterizes it, in that posted video. I still think it was likely due to how low he had clamped the front tire.

Still, a lot of this "movement" is both expectation and perception. I haven't seen any wiggle in mine but acknowledge that others may have a different experience.

1upusa by far one of the best products for biking that I have owned. It's the dropper post of hitch racks.

All that said, if people are experience some minor (to me) wiggle, they should look at how they are clamping their front wheel, as it may take care of the issue.


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## qdawgg (Jun 21, 2007)

I never had any "wiggle" using the Thule. It uses the sidearm to sit directly on top of the tire, so it sits in the perfect position and the whole piece essentially wraps from one side of the tire to the other. Then you back tire is strapped down to the rack. Really not sure how you could have any real noticeable "wiggle" with your bike. I didn't even mention the front tire wheel holder that wraps around the tire as well. I could grab my bike when mounted and shake the bike and it was on there solid. 

So if you got too much wiggle with the Thule you definitely would get far more wiggle with a 1up IMO. Too start with, the piece to "lock" the wheels down don't go as far to the top of the tire as the Thule - if you have a 29er wheel. It also doesn't wrap around the tire/wheel in the same way the Thule does, with the 1up you basically have the smaller contact point directly on the tire compared. The tray is also metal, which is awesome for longevity (which is why I bought it) but also makes the tire wiggle around when driving. The other difference between the trays is the 1up tray only has a small lip to it. I wouldn't ever worry about the tire coming off the tray but the Thule wheel tray is far greater in height in comparison. 

Given all that, I've transported 2 different 29ers on some rougher back roads and luckily the handlebar hasn't hit my window, one of my big concerns. I also don't have the rack sitting out as far as I could on the slider I don't think, so the bike definitely wiggles but it doesn't wiggle as much as I was worried it might. 

The real test for me with this rack will be when I get 3 bikes on using 2 additional add-ons. Hopefully the wiggle won't be an issue. 

*** @jimglassford - If your bike doesn't seem as secure as you'd like in the Thule, I would see if maybe where you lock down the front tire is the cause. I used to pull the sidearm up over the tire and have it pretty close to the front fork, the bike never moved on my rack and drive on some pretty rough roads and have took a lot of 4 - 6 hr trips to races last year and never had anything happen like you describe. I've seen people "hook" the front tire closer to the 9 o'clock position to the 11 o'clock position and that's a terrible spot. (which is kind of where the 1up is which helps cause the wiggle)


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

qdawgg said:


> I never had any "wiggle" using the Thule. It uses the sidearm to sit directly on top of the tire, so it sits in the perfect position and the whole piece essentially wraps from one side of the tire to the other. Then you back tire is strapped down to the rack. Really not sure how you could have any real noticeable "wiggle" with your bike. I didn't even mention the front tire wheel holder that wraps around the tire as well. I could grab my bike when mounted and shake the bike and it was on there solid.
> 
> So if you got too much wiggle with the Thule you definitely would get far more wiggle with a 1up IMO. Too start with, the piece to "lock" the wheels down don't go as far to the top of the tire as the Thule - if you have a 29er wheel. It also doesn't wrap around the tire/wheel in the same way the Thule does, with the 1up you basically have the smaller contact point directly on the tire compared. The tray is also metal, which is awesome for longevity (which is why I bought it) but also makes the tire wiggle around when driving. The other difference between the trays is the 1up tray only has a small lip to it. I wouldn't ever worry about the tire coming off the tray but the Thule wheel tray is far greater in height in comparison.
> 
> ...


Like I said, wiggle isn't universal and it's minor with 1up.

All racks have trade-offs. I have used several products, trunk, Yakima roof, and 1upsa.

1upusa hits the sweet spot of of convenience in setup, take off, adding multiples, and it is on a hitch.

Loved my Yakima King Cobra roof rack, too, but trade-offs are gas mileage, and getting the damn bike on and off the roof. In addition, the clamp can be tightened wrong, the entire roof rack can move, forgot to inflate front tire, etc... I did it all and the rack performed despite all the "issues" .

Tried 1upsua and I'd never go to another brand unless they were better in every way.


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## Doub1e_R (May 22, 2020)

So I’m looking at 1up. Hooking it up to my armada to transport my 1 bike. Maybe get and add on later on. I currently have a Yakima 6 for my family of 5. Don’t want to keep that on when I’m just transporting my one bike, lol, little overkill. Do you guys recommend the equip d 2” or super duty 1? I can get a used super duty for $380 right now and comes with everything plus 2 wheel locks. You guys think it’s a good deal?


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Its a good deal as that's a lot cheaper than retail AND they are out of stock.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I bought the Super duty new over the Equip D for my 1 tray and I have been super happy with it. I think the equip D may have some nice features that really don't matter for 1 bike.


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## Doub1e_R (May 22, 2020)

Well super duty is 380 plus tax and shipping? Saving money on tax. Shipping. And two wheel locks. It’s the silver one.


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## qdawgg (Jun 21, 2007)

cjsb said:


> Like I said, wiggle isn't universal and it's minor with 1up.
> 
> All racks have trade-offs. I have used several products, trunk, Yakima roof, and 1upsa.
> 
> ...


Definitely trade-offs for sure. If Thule made a rack that would last as long as the 1up the Thule would be a no brainer for me because in every other way the Thule is a better rack. More secure, easier to use, FAR easier to tilt up and down without bikes and the ease is magnified when you compare tilting the rack with 2 bikes on the rack, and almost no bike movement when driving. Just my experience so far owning both racks.


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## noshortcuts (Nov 29, 2005)

*nice review, ez fix*

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/ez-pull/


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## ErvSpanks (Apr 14, 2006)

*RacAttach?*



RyderRider said:


> I am trying to nail down fitment though. I have a 2002 Toyota 4runner. I have a 4X Innovations rear swing out tire carrier loaded with 315x75x16 tire.
> 
> The tire sticks out about 14" from the lip of the receiver.
> The tire hangs down about 3" away from the top of the receiver.


I know it's a bump in price, but would using the RacAttach help your situation? Extra distance off the back of your rig and the bike swing one way while the tire swing the other to get full access to the rear. just throwing it out there. Cheers!


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

ErvSpanks said:


> I know it's a bump in price, but would using the RacAttach help your situation? Extra distance off the back of your rig and the bike swing one way while the tire swing the other to get full access to the rear. just throwing it out there. Cheers!


Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that, but it swings the same way my tire carrier swings. I ordered my single, plus add-on Super Duty carrier and it should be here next week. I went with a standard non-reverse side plate configuration. From what I can tell, it should all work with a simple extension. Fingers crossed.


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## ATLRB (Sep 12, 2014)

RyderRider said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that, but it swings the same way my tire carrier swings. I ordered my single, plus add-on Super Duty carrier and it should be here next week. I went with a standard non-reverse side plate configuration. From what I can tell, it should all work with a simple extension. Fingers crossed.


The Kuat Pivot v2 lets you chose which way it swings. In case you still want to have a swing away option.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

ATLRB said:


> The Kuat Pivot v2 lets you chose which way it swings. In case you still want to have a swing away option.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thank you, but I think I want to keep it as simple as possible. 95% of the time it will just be my single bike on the rack. It shouldn't be too hard to dismount one bike should I really desire to get into the rear cargo area. I am excited to see it in the flesh though.


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## ErvSpanks (Apr 14, 2006)

RyderRider said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that, but it swings the same way my tire carrier swings. I ordered my single, plus add-on Super Duty carrier and it should be here next week. I went with a standard non-reverse side plate configuration. From what I can tell, it should all work with a simple extension. Fingers crossed.


You can get it in either a passenger side swing ir driver side swing

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

Have to disagree with all the Thule love. Had a Tx2 or whatever the terminator name is. Four bikes. Rack wobbled all over the place. I have to buy a stabilizer for it. It helps but the entire rack moved too much.

Ratchet mechanism would get jammed up on all four racks. I live in CO and cleaned them regularly. Still happened.

Same issue with locks.

I had one of the hooks slide off my bike and luckily the rear wheel strap held the entire bike up off the highway until I got pulled over.

Per the instructions you need to have the hook within an inch or so if the fork. This causes the hook to rub your fork. You will get the paint rubbed off.

Only reason I went with Thule (and Yakima) over 1up is discount.

Now wifey has a 2 bike Heavy Duty on her car. Have 4 van racks in the van. Just ordered a 2 bike Heavy Duty for the truck. 

They work. Parts are all metal. Easily replaceable if some ever happens to break. No rocking. No touching my bike.

Van racks hold bike securely and its half a rack. Two of them have fat bike conversions and still flawless even holding road bikes.


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

*1UP Super Duty mounted on vehicle with large spare tire.*

I posted this as an answer to one of my own questions as posting it there and here might help a few more people as a few topics were touched on.

Original post: https://forums.mtbr.com/cars-bike-r...re-fitment-question-1144973.html#post14906639

*apologies for all the bold font. This site and copy and paste don't play well together.*

*Situation:

Vehicle: 2002 Toyota 4Runner (lifted ~3", modded, armor).

Hitch: 2" 4X Innovations swing-out bumper with tire carrier loaded with a 315/75/16" (35") spare.

Bike rack: 1UP 2" Super Duty Single +1 Add On.

Problem: What will it take for the bike to mount and clear the spare tire?

also: Do I need to order the bike carrier with "Reversed Side Plates" (this lowers the orientation of the rack downward rather than standard / upward).

TLDR: With about an 8" hitch extension, the standard configuration will clear my mounted bike by about 2".

Oh! You have time to kill? Say no more!

Further revelations: I wanted the standard configuration as long as it would work for my current vehicle. I wanted to avoid having to give up clearance on my current set up by having to order the reversed sided plates. This loss of clearance would be a greater annoyance with a non-lifted vehicle.

Security? I can't say that I have a warm fuzzy feeling about security. First the 1UP rack security with my situation is not ideal. For one, it looks like it might just be on older, perhaps, the 1UP 1.25" version, but there is no hole for running a lock "in front" of the security anti-wobble allen key. Maybe it's a trade off between the two designs between the 1.25" and the 2" versions.

The 2" version has a long skinny channel to pass a hitch pin lock through. BUT the best you can do is use the teensy-weensy 1UP or like thin shaft lock. A standard hitch pin lock will not fit. Booooo. LOL. I think they could have opened up the channel a bit to allow for a standard / larger hitch pin lock to be used, but... they didn't. I am using their hitch pin lock and even when it is all the way tight, it still has some room between it, and the hitch.

Also, with an extension, the rack body is too far from the hitch chain mounts to think about using a U / D lock like so many seem to do. That's what I get for driving a YEE YEE 4X4. Hahaha.

Possible security solutions: At first I was going to just go with the 1UP wheel locks, but... I thought I might try to find something that could work both on the rack, and out in the world. I still might go with the 1UP wheel locks. I mean, when it comes down to it, you could put the best lock in the world on the rack to secure the bike, and in under a minute, someone with a portable angle grinder could cut it, or the rack to get access to you bike. My research has enlightened me to the fact that ALL bike locks (foldable, chain, and U /D lock) can all be defeated in about a minute.

I am leaning towards an Abus https://mobil.abus.com/int/on-road/H...ck-ST?type=pdp This is one of the few that has the length to connect the main frame with the bike rack, and not much else. There is also an Abus https://mobil.abus.com/int/on-road/L...9210-170-black that caught my eye. At some point, if someone is bringing an angle grinder to the table, it wont matter if you went with $120 or over $200 lock, they will all be defeated.*​


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## REZEN (Aug 7, 2020)

For $20 I am quite happy with these lights:
They have 2 rows, when hitting the brakes both rows light up.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

REZEN said:


> For $20 I am quite happy with these lights:


Nice.

I had made a set years ago, but the lamps are too big to close the "bent arms" all the way.

Can you completely stow the rack with these Curt lamps in place?


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## REZEN (Aug 7, 2020)

Yes, the arms close flush, they are not in the way. I'll update the gif.

Also, someone above posted pics of the Quick Slide. Their pic has it mounted backwards. The Quick Slide accessory points "inward" toward the wheels, not outward. THIS POST has it backwards


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

jidoe said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm pretty happy with my 1up rack. Only issue is that the rack, when tightened into the hitch, does not sit level (parallel with the bumper). Is this common? Even if it's just cosmetic, it's really bugging me.
> 
> ...


Are you sure it's not the hitch?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Has anyone replaced the two bolts that attach an Add-On rack with tamper-resistant bolts (like, Bryce, Fastenright, etc.)?


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## REZEN (Aug 7, 2020)

^No, but theres nothing special about the sizing 1UP uses...


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## acer66 (Oct 13, 2010)

Gf just got one and the lack of the safety pin was and kinda still is a bit of a concern on my end even I read here that it holds in place without one just fine.
Not sure what the idea is with the velcro strap though unless that tiny little plastic loop the velcro goes through is super strong.
Hopefully I will not be shopping for a new bike soon i these dire times.🤪


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## BXCc (May 31, 2012)

acer66 said:


> Not sure what the idea is with the velcro strap though unless that tiny little plastic loop the velcro goes through is super strong.
> Hopefully I will not be shopping for a new bike soon i these dire times.?


the Velcro is stronger than you'd think. Also, it's not holding much for weight. It's only to prevent it from sliding out. I was concerned too so I did a little experiment. Load up a bike or two with the rack loose in the hitch. With the Velcro installed, try sliding the rack out. It does it's job just fine.


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## Nomad Ninja (Sep 2, 2007)

If you're really concerned go to Home Depot, get an inch wide aluminum bar, bend, drill, add a bolt, washer and nut with nylon insert and you're set. Extra credit, plasti dip spray it and you're on our way. I did that with mine, zero issues. But the Velcro worked just fine too.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

BXCc said:


> the Velcro is stronger than you'd think. Also, it's not holding much for weight. It's only to prevent it from sliding out. I was concerned too so I did a little experiment. Load up a bike or two with the rack loose in the hitch. With the Velcro installed, try sliding the rack out. It does it's job just fine.


This exactly.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

I went to Lowe's and got a bit of chain cut to length and a lock. The rack has never slid (I put tape on it as a marker) but I still keep the chain on because I don't want to worry about it.


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## acer66 (Oct 13, 2010)

Yeah, looks like I am overthinking this.
I normally tow things and while I know that the forces are different having no pin got me thinking.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I have the locking hitch pin, which I think works as a safety pin. However, it has never slid or been loose in the receiver.


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## chiefsilverback (Dec 20, 2019)

I just splurged on a pair of 2 bike heavy duties, 2 add-on trays and a RakAttach swing arm. I've got a 4 bike setup with the swing of our main vehicle, and a 2 bike on our secondary (my daily) vehicle. They replace a couple of Yakima hanging racks and the speed I can load and unload bikes now vs mucking around with top tube adapters, getting the bikes in the right order/orientation etc... The 1Ups are worth every penny.

My wife has received a few comments from people about the ~150lbs of rack hanging off the back of her car!


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Does anyone have a REAL hard time getting your bike out of the rack? The red levers on my Super Duty are so tight that I have to use my palm like a hammer (unless I have an actual hammer nearby). I push on the arms while hitting the lever, but it's super-tight. I asked 1Up if I was possibly cranking the arms too tight on my tires, but they haven't answered yet. They did suggest that one of the bolts was too tight; it was pretty tight, but loosening it didn't do much, if anything. Nothing is bent, and I have the same problem with my add-on rack which rarely gets used. Note, the levers and arms move fine when there's no bike on the rack. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong (and my wrist is really sore!).


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## M320 (Mar 22, 2013)

JustRon said:


> Does anyone have a REAL hard time getting your bike out of the rack? The red levers on my Super Duty are so tight that I have to use my palm like a hammer (unless I have an actual hammer nearby). I push on the arms while hitting the lever, but it's super-tight. I asked 1Up if I was possibly cranking the arms too tight on my tires, but they haven't answered yet. They did suggest that one of the bolts was too tight; it was pretty tight, but loosening it didn't do much, if anything. Nothing is bent, and I have the same problem with my add-on rack which rarely gets used. Note, the levers and arms move fine when there's no bike on the rack. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong (and my wrist is really sore!).
> View attachment 1936514


I have used mine for several years and I lean pretty hard on the arm to take off the tension before pulling up the red lever. But it is still tough some times. Better than loose I guess


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

JustRon said:


> Does anyone have a REAL hard time getting your bike out of the rack? The red levers on my Super Duty are so tight that I have to use my palm like a hammer (unless I have an actual hammer nearby). I push on the arms while hitting the lever, but it's super-tight. I asked 1Up if I was possibly cranking the arms too tight on my tires, but they haven't answered yet. They did suggest that one of the bolts was too tight; it was pretty tight, but loosening it didn't do much, if anything. Nothing is bent, and I have the same problem with my add-on rack which rarely gets used. Note, the levers and arms move fine when there's no bike on the rack. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong (and my wrist is really sore!).
> View attachment 1936514


Just squirt a little 3 in 1 lube or dry lube on the pivot points. Mine used to be like that, and it is silky smooth now.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I push the arm tighter which relieves tension and the I can easily pull the red arm up.

It's a 2 handed maneuver


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

M320 said:


> I have used mine for several years and I lean pretty hard on the arm to take off the tension before pulling up the red lever. But it is still tough some times. Better than loose I guess


Same here.
OP might be cranking then down too hard

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## rstark18 (Apr 10, 2006)

cassieno said:


> I push the arm tighter which relieves tension and the I can easily pull the red arm up.
> 
> It's a 2 handed maneuver


^^Same here.

I push mine as tight as they'll go to secure it but definitely don't put my weight into it to try and get an extra click or two. When it's time to unload I just slightly push the tire bar in and lift the red lever. I've never greased oiled or lubed the rack and it's on a (garaged) car 24/7

The way they are designed your bike can't fall out even if they're just barely touching the tires.


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## RyderRider (May 18, 2020)

Yeah, I think I misunderstood your issue at first glance. You don't have to really smash the arms into the tires when placing it into the rack. I have worked out that mine takes about 5 clicks on the teeth each side and it is pretty secure. And I, like the others have mentioned, will have one hand pressing slightly in on the arm and into the tire, to relieve pressure before I try pulling up on the red latch for it to release. I don't know if the teeth wear out at some point and hold less firmly, but I try to be easy on the rack to make sure it lasts a long time.


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I had a stiff arm pivot and when I went to loosen the bolt it broke. It had filled with that white aluminum corrosion and seized. I don't use the rack in the winter but I still know better and should lube the pivots. So now on occasion I put some chain lube or fluid film on them.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Funny, I've been using this rack for 6 months, and AFTER I posted this question, I finally figured it out. While I was pulling on the lever, I was _pushing_ on the arm (away from the car). I should have been *pulling* on the arms. I tried it today and it worked. I feel like an idiot because I've used this thing so many times and just figured it out now.


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## Coal-Cracker (May 4, 2010)

RyderRider said:


> ... I don't know if the teeth wear out at some point and hold less firmly, but I try to be easy on the rack to make sure it lasts a long time.


I wouldn't worry about being too "easy" on your rack. I've had my Quikrack for 10 years, and I haven't noticed compromised function due to any wearing of the teeth*. Have faith; you're good to go. 

* for clarification's sake, I haven't noticed any wearing of the teeth - and I probably go 'too tight' when loading the bike.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

Has anyone tried using trailer lights on their 1up? I’m trying to find an easy clamp on or bolt on solution for the outermost tray, maybe on the wheel arms using one of the unused holes … when I have 1-2 bikes I haven’t had a problem but with 3 bikes there have been times when vehicles could not see my turn signals and it could have caused an accident. 

I’m set up with a flat 4 connector and I’m sure I could rig my own custom setup with enough time, misc parts, solder and heat shrink, but if an out of the box or near out of the box solution exists I’d rather go that route. Kids suck all my non-riding time these days …


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

I haven't but I saved this incase I want to add in the future:


















CURT Auxiliary LED Indicator Lights 53201


CURT auxiliary LED indicator lights add extra safety and visibility to your vehicle when towing a cargo carrier, bike rack or other hitch-mounted accessory. Simply stick them on, using the included 3M



www.homedepot.com





EDIT: changed the link to Home Depot as they have it cheaper, still with free shipping!


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## SchralphMacchio (Aug 24, 2015)

Thanks, I ended up ordering exactly that kit from Walmart, also free shipping.

Will decide when it arrives whether to put it on the tray or on the pivoting brace arm that is bolted to the wheel arm.

I wish this product were off/on or 33%/100% when blinking for turn signal, but sadly it blinks 50%/100%. Still better than nothing!


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## rlee (Aug 22, 2015)

I use trailer lights. I bought a set from my local auto parts store. They have mounting studs on the back that I put through the arms. I only use them when travelling at night but it is a good idea.


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