# show us your helmet mounts



## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

As the title says, show us your helmet mounts please..also a link to where you got it..if it wasn't DIY..

Thanks


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Easy and super-light DIY, which also sinks some heat:



















Simple L-shaped aluminum with Velcro Dual-lock on the bottom and velcro one-wrap over the top.
A piece of dual-lock goes on the helmet, if there's a flat area, or on an old light mount if not.

There's a corresponding piece of dual lock on my headband and my handlebar mount.

Pardon the smears of thermal grease in this photo of one of the original sled lights.


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

allport on this forum makes a good helmet mount link below, their are more views in his gallery:

https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/ND3_6260_800.jpg


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## oreophilus (Mar 22, 2005)

BLT









soldered small round (on Magicshine helmet mount)

















soldered oval (on Magicshine helmet mount)


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

ruscle said:


> allport on this forum makes a good helmet mount link below, their are more views in his gallery:
> 
> https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/ND3_6260_800.jpg


Nice one mate.. I sat in front of the mill earlier but my brain wasn't working..probably because I've had the flu all weekend..
Now i know what I need to do..


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

I use cateye mounts... Cheap and quick to get:

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I had problems with high mounted NR halogens years ago getting hit by branches and have gone for low profile helmet mounts ever since. DIY out of some 1.5mm sheet aluminum. Two different lights but similar mounting. Velcro patch on the helmet and mount base and a velcro strap loop for extra security (don't think it's needed really).


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

I have one of allports mounts which I can send to you to use as a template or I can take more detailed pictures for you to work from for ideas if you wish.

Looking forward to pictures of your creation to compliment the light once its done


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

I use a Sigma helmet mount ( only the bottom of the mount ). About 5$ and you get a free waterprof cable that I use to build the light.


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## phburns (Sep 30, 2008)

DIY O-ring mount









https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/microcool-build-sequence-752328.html


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Cateye mount for the commuter light









Piece of L-shaped alu and velcro for the mtb light (although if I make a new housing, it'll use the Cateye system too)









I'm with Vancbiker on the positioning of the light - I've hooked a top mounted light several times and getting your head yanked back suddenly is no fun. Plus the forward weight helps balance the battery at the back.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> Cateye mount for the commuter light
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have to ask, have you been using your helemt as one of these??


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ha ha, no, it's just old and needs replacing. Always something else (car/house/medical) that comes up first though.

it'll soon be time to crack out the saucers and sleds though, can't wait!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Moving the mount discussion from the Dual XM-L thread,
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/dual-xm-l-765368.html

I am looking at a mount that would work for helmet and also headband. I think the much-admired cateye may not tilt high enough.

Has anyone used the Marwi with the click-connector on a headband?
I like my simple mounts, but not all my friends are handy enough to set up the dual lock well.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I just had a fiddle with the one on my helmet at work and you can get it to ~5deg below the perpendicular as standard and if you trim the base plate material, you should be able to get it perpendicular to the mount. However, that precludes more than ~3mm of material sticking out the back of the light.

I'd guess that the marwi headband system would be the best bet - I've seen it used on here a lot (El34 would be the one to ask)


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

I'm still on my yet to be perfected free bit of folded plastic. 180 degree up/down swivel and is often used as a head band mount for walking.


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## Sandrenseren (Dec 29, 2011)

I use Ay Up from www.ayup-lights.com - it's a bit expensive but is so cool and light weight and well designed it's a pleasure to use every time.










150g including the 3 hour battery. Twin lights, adjustable angle so usually I tilt one side for medium range and the other side for a longer beam. All the straps and mounts, velcros and stuff are included in the kit. I stuck four small velcro pads to the front of my helmet for the light and 4 small pads in the back for the battery, which means the light and battery are really easy to mount and remove.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I am looking at a mount that would work for helmet and also headband. I think the much-admired cateye may not tilt high enough.
> 
> Has anyone used the Marwi with the click-connector on a headband?
> I like my simple mounts, but not all my friends are handy enough to set up the dual lock well.


I got one of El34 marwi lights and ordered the headband as well. The helmet mount sticks up a bit high. I don't use the click-connector though - I just use velcro instead.

Light, holder and battery (single AW 2900mA) are 142 g, the bike helmet with the light just under 400g.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I ordered one of the Marwi sets. I'll see if I like how it sits, but I agree it looks a bit high.
Here's how I prefer my light mounted on the helmet, nice and low.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Mine*


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## lightjunction (May 17, 2011)

Not bad, Scar. How waterproof is it with that button on top?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> Originally posted by lightjunction -
> _Not bad, Scar. How waterproof is it with that button on top? _


Very waterproof, never had a problem. Got lights being commuted with daily up in Seattle and being used hard all around the world :thumbsup:

****


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## Frede (Dec 7, 2009)

Yetibetty, was it hard to do the interference fit/shrink fit cap on the back of the light with a build in led?


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Frede said:


> Yetibetty, was it hard to do the interference fit/shrink fit cap on the back of the light with a build in led?


Frede,If you have a lathe then it's very easy to do. Just make the hole 1/10th MM smaller than the cap, get the housing warm and the cap cool then press together in a vise.Once the two parts are at the same temp they will expand/contract at the same rate so almost become one.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Frede,If you have a lathe then it's very easy to do. Just make the hole 1/10th MM smaller than the cap, get the housing warm and the cap cool then press together in a vise.Once the two parts are at the same temp they will expand/contract at the same rate so almost become one.


I use the freezer all the time at work to shrink parts so they will just drop into the hole then expand to give a good tight interference fit.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I use one of these...no vice or freezer


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Jay that is the best idea I have ever seen. I would pay for her to stand in that position all day in my workshop in readiness for the occasional hammering.

She also compliments your drill stand very nicely. Not sure how our wives would feel though.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

brad72 said:


> I use the freezer all the time at work to shrink parts so they will just drop into the hole then expand to give a good tight interference fit.


Brad I did it that way a few times but found it put condensation into the light as it warmed up so now I just get the housing very hot to expand it and just keep the other bit cool.

I made my own jig saw many years ago via the freezing method and it works great but not with delicate electronics involved.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> jay that is the best idea i have ever seen. I would pay for her to stand in that position all day in my workshop in readiness *for the occasional hamering*.:d
> 
> she also compliments your drill stand very nicely. Not sure how our wives would feel though.


pmsl


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## Frede (Dec 7, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> Brad I did it that way a few times but found it put condensation into the light as it warmed up so now I just get the housing very hot to expand it and just keep the other bit cool.
> 
> I made my own jig saw many years ago via the freezing method and it works great but not with delicate electronics involved.


Thanks for the reply and I will try out your advise that you wrote in your first answer, but heating up the housing is what I am worried about  I would rather not end up melting the driver and led board.

Do you simply just use your oven in the kitchen at low heat to heat up the housing when its build up with electronics?


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

"in readiness for the occasional hammering"? 
Got it!


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Frede said:


> Thanks for the reply and I will try out your advise that you wrote in your first answer, but heating up the housing is what I am worried about  I would rather not end up melting the driver and led board.
> 
> Do you simply just use your oven in the kitchen at low heat to heat up the housing when its build up with electronics?


You don't have to get it that hot I just turn the light on 'till it gets hot or blast it with a hair dryer ( I hear that Brad lends his out )


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## ecthelion (May 6, 2007)

I've ordered this one . .


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> You don't have to get it that hot I just turn the light on 'till it gets hot or blast it with a hair dryer ( I hear that Brad lends his out )


Looks like I dug myself a big hole with my Fank-n-Furter joke Oh Brad..Ohh Janet

I do like the plastic idea though Yeti. Light and flexible but easy to fabricate.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

brad72 said:


> Looks like I dug myself a big hole with my Fank-n-Furter joke Oh Brad..Ohh Janet
> 
> I do like the plastic idea though Yeti. Light and flexible but easy to fabricate.


Plastic? I thought you got around in lycra


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## SBJohn (Feb 5, 2010)

I use a velcro strap.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

I use gopro camera mounts now. It's nice, so many different ways to mount my gopro or my light. I just cut part of one of the 90 deg bend pieces off and bolted it to to the bottom of the light. Now my light has plastic tabs just like the gopro housing. It's nice to have my light on a tripod while camping or working outside at night.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

*Cable Ties...*

I'm using cable ties:


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## BeastRider (Oct 20, 2011)

That appears to be a neon tube on the back of your helmet. What type is it?


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

BeastRider said:


> That appears to be a neon tube on the back of your helmet. What type is it?


One of these
FIBRE FLARE Full Length The ultimate safety light! fibre-optic technology! - Red | eBay


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## BeastRider (Oct 20, 2011)

Goldigger said:


> One of these
> FIBRE FLARE Full Length The ultimate safety light! fibre-optic technology! - Red | eBay


Looks pretty interesting. Would love to see a night shot!!


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

BeastRider said:


> Looks pretty interesting. Would love to see a night shot!!


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

tbh, that video makes them look _really_ dim, especially in the streets with sodium lighting. Love the hipsterfest though


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

The red ones are quite bright - without being a PITA for following riders.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

mattthemuppet said:


> tbh, that video makes them look _really_ dim, especially in the streets with sodium lighting. Love the hipsterfest though


Dam I was going to get a load of blue ones and tron my ride


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## Dawbs96 (Feb 5, 2012)

all look a wicked setup wouldnt mind one myself ahaa


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## The Understater (May 6, 2007)

*Custom mount.*

This one's a couple of years old.
I'm buying a new helmet and building a new version soon.

b.


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## BrianMc (Jan 5, 2010)

A helmet pivot mount for a Planet Bike Turbo:



Keeping it vertical is critical because of its narrow beam.

A Marwi helmet mount with modded mixed triple XP-E & G Marwi on winterized Sheldon-style helmet:



BrianMc


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Look ma, no straps

I took a Marwi helmet mount and cut it down to a small size.
Then I isntalled two thread in plastic inserts into the helmet ribs.
The ribs are really thick and wide where I intalled the inserts so the helmet structure was not compromised.

Then I screwed the helmet mount into the plasctic inserts.
It's rock solid, no squirming or coming loose.

Sponge Bob approved it.

I got the Marwi helmet mount from me. 

EDIT: BTW, I used drywall anchors that thread in, not the simple expanding type. I pre drilled a hole in the helmet foam and then threaded the anchors in. The anchors look like this. You can remove the lower pointy end of the anchor. You only need the threaded part. You don't need super long screws either.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Mate I have never seen spongebob looking so stoned. Patrick must be leading him astray. 

Nice mount also .


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Sponge Bob is on crack!


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## henry9419 (Nov 18, 2010)

El34 said:


> Look ma, no straps
> 
> I took a Marwi helmet mount and cut it down to a small size.
> Then I isntalled two thread in plastic inserts into the helmet ribs.
> ...


Have you crashed that helmet yet? Seems like a good idea, but how has it held up overall? I would be more comfortable doing that on a full face


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

I have not crashed in many years.
Use to crash more often when I took big chances, but those days are over and my body feels way better now. 

I guess this is the 3rd year using that same helmet with the screwed down mount.
The mount is still rock solid because the anchors are able to really grab ahold of the dense foam
The foam is super thick and deep where the anchors are inserted.

Note that this is not one of those super light weight racing helmets, so there's plenty of meat

*Some notes on intsalling*
Predrilling a proper sized hole in the foam is important

You can shorten the anchors by cutting off the sharp pointy tips since you are installing them in a predrilled hole.

You don't need super long screws

You can grind the screw head points off that bothers you to have a pointy object pointed towards your head


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## Riken (May 27, 2008)

something i came up with. my requirements were, small, light, simple, secure, no vibration, quick. everything is inside the helmet and well below the top so it doesn't get caught on things.

Take a guess how it stays there...


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Riken said:


> something i came up with. my requirements were, small, light, simple, secure, no vibration, quick. everything is inside the helmet and well below the top so it doesn't get caught on things.
> 
> Take a guess how it stays there...


I'll take a guess what might happen if you go over the bars...!


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

it's not screwed in is it? I really can't understand people doing that. Helmets are there to keep your head from hitting something hard (or rather, reduce the deceleration of your brain) so adding something hard and pointy to the structure of your helmet defeats the purpose, surely?

Admittedly, the odds of you landing just right for it to get driven into your skull are pretty small, but why take the chance? This is from someone that's broken 2 helmets and lost 12h of memory from one of those crashes.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> it's not screwed in is it? I really can't understand people doing that


If I ever crashed that hard on that exact spot, my neck would be broken.
My helmet is not one of those super light racing helmets with thin webs
My helmet has masive amounts of meat on the ribs


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

hey, each to their own. I'm just saying that I've crashed hard enough to break two helmets and _haven't_ broken my neck. If a hole had been drilled into either of those helmets (neither were racing helmets) then the reduced integrity may have resulted in more serious trauma (ie. vegetable instead of concussion) and that's before the risk of driving a screw into my head. I just can't see the value in taking that risk.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Yes, to each his own.
You should not do that


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

Hi Matt,
hear you on the screws and helmet.
if you broke 2 helmets, maybe a better helmet, that won't break as easy is a start point .

for helmets, comes to mind, POC, cave/climbing hard hats, military training buckets .
industrial velcro + straps, usually do. 
it's usually the old cod, who likes to bolt things on,...
and the military buckets, things get bolted on. 
for the die-hard, there is sheet-metal, glue/epoxy, rivet-nuts .
keep it under 1/2 inch protruding or less.
usually my hair covers those pesky lines;
only with a short crew cut, it looks more like a trailmap.
and avoid extra screws in your skull like hell; 
since those Titanium Screws at the Hospital, they charge $1k+ a pop. and for the not so rich guy, they skip the needle and thread, and go straight for the staples.
those super light , road/race helmets ain't not necessary the best choice for the burly AM/freeride mtb rider. 
what else, most riders completely forget about the crash / crashes, after the BBQ
and beer and couple of Tylenol. It's going be to late , when it disintegrates on your head.
really need to replace that brain bucket, after a decent crash. and check for dents and cracks, sometimes you'd forget about those tree / branch encounters, where you did not do cartwheels ; so you'd completely forgot about them. 
If you get tired , replacing the super light stuff, those thicker shell hard hats come in handy. the more fashionable stuff , is for climbing/ caving / kayaking .
cheers, Rob



mattthemuppet said:


> it's not screwed in is it? I really can't understand people doing that. Helmets are there to keep your head from hitting something hard (or rather, reduce the deceleration of your brain) so adding something hard and pointy to the structure of your helmet defeats the purpose, surely?
> 
> Admittedly, the odds of you landing just right for it to get driven into your skull are pretty small, but why take the chance? This is from someone that's broken 2 helmets and lost 12h of memory from one of those crashes.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Rob, helmets are designed to crush then break on impact, it's how they dissipate the impact's energy and reduce the rate of deceleration. That's why helmet companies always advise on replacing helmets after landing on your head as once the helmet material is compressed (even if you can't see it) it's ineffective in the future. The fact that I had concussion and lost those 12h of my memory should tell you I hit my head pretty hard


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## Riken (May 27, 2008)

rare earth magnets from dealextreme. 2 small ones longitudinal and 2 on the light. the little velcro in the middle holds the wire up and keep from swiveling. i used some foam and 2 sided tape for trial n error to get the exact angle before i made the aluminum.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

that's a neat idea Riken. Should detach easily if you snag it on a branch too.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

I just wanted to share that I just found the perfect mount for me. I posted a while back that I am using the gopro camera mounting system. I just cut a go pro right angle adapter and screwed it onto the bottom of my trout-light. It works but its not elegant. Now I have found that www.candlepowertech.com is using the same idea. Even better they sell a little plate with the go pro tabs. Just what I have been wanting. I am E-mailing them right now to confirm compatibility with go-pro but if K-edge works it should work.

I am sure I already mentioned it but wow I like the go pro mounting systems. Of course I am now eyeing the high bling k-edge mount.


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## L8str (Dec 15, 2012)

Mounted my Magic Shine light with MS mount ($10). Didn't care for the Velcro straps so I cut them off and screwed the mount to the Lazer lid. 

.


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## phburns (Sep 30, 2008)

L8str: I think I'd rather have the velcro than a screw pointing at my skull, hope it works out well for you.


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## L8str (Dec 15, 2012)

The part ot the helmet the screw is in is 1.060 thk. The screw penetrate the lid less than .440. I also flattened the end of the screws. I know the EPS liner is designed to compress and absorb impact but the chances of it compressing 5/8" are next to impossible. Plus I figure the light and base will be torn off in a hard get-off anyway, if so it becomes a moot topic.


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## friz (Dec 2, 2012)

Here is my solution. Hopefully the rubber would give way in a crash or a snag.


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## Rocky Raccoon (Jul 26, 2013)

*Here Is my DIY helmet mount*

Got a few of these Snap-On buttons at a local tailor's shop.








With the help of some hot Glue:








Attached each of the button's side to the helmet and to the supplied head mount:















And Viola:








The light is very stable on the helmet, it has only fallen off when caught in thick tree branches. I would have liked to have a third button attached but the helmet's contour did not allow this. It attaches and disassembles very easily on/off the helmet.
Hope this could help other riders.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I like the snap idea! Too bad the supplied mount sits the light so high on the top of the helmet.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> The part of the helmet the screw is in is 1.060 thk. The screw penetrate the lid less than .440. I also flattened the end of the screws. I know the EPS liner is designed to compress and absorb impact but the chances of it compressing 5/8" are next to impossible. Plus I figure the light and base will be torn off in a hard get-off anyway, if so it becomes a moot topic.


I think that many people are under the impression that helmet foam compresses easily.
Mine has ribs that are over an inch thick and it's just about impossible to compress the foam in my helmet.

I have been using short flat tipped screws in my helmet for several years with no problems
You don't need really long screws and you don't need pointed screws
That's what makes the difference between something that works right and something that could be dangerous.

I'll say it again, it would take a massive hit to crush the top ribs on my helmet
And if that did happen, I would probably have a broken neck and be dead

The helmet would break apart where all the ribs join before that happens.

In fact I have had a helmet crack during a bad crash and that is exactly what happened, the ribs broke and absorbed the impact, 
The foam did not compress or if it did it was very minimal

Having said all that, the rare earth magnets is a good idea
I use them to hold dust shoes onto my CNC machine and they are very strong and you only needs very tiny ones to get the job done.


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## Gundam168 (Dec 19, 2012)

Here's my simple set up:


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

bikerjay said:


> I use gopro camera mounts now. It's nice, so many different ways to mount my gopro or my light. I just cut part of one of the 90 deg bend pieces off and bolted it to to the bottom of the light. Now my light has plastic tabs just like the gopro housing. It's nice to have my light on a tripod while camping or working outside at night.


Anybody have a picture of this? Still trying to see if GoPro is the way to go for mounts.


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## stuflo (Mar 10, 2011)

Each to there own for screwing stuff into a helmet. 
Just an idea but who would be willing to get some polystyrene and put a screw in it. 
Atatch it to a wall then head butt in as hard as they could. 
I broken two helmets in my time and as Matt says they are designed to basically fall apart on impact therefore absorbing the energy (as in the front nose cone on an f1 car.) The first I broke was hitting the back of a car at 20+ mph and no I didn't break my neck I just luckily was able to walk out the front passenger door. 
Helmets are designed the way they are to pass tests and save your brain cells. 
If I crash in one and it ends up marked or dented it goes in the hard riding trophy cabinet.


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## JT_Productions (Oct 16, 2014)

*Skate board helmet, velcro, and Coast flashlight*








Very bright and warm in the winter.


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## shupack (Nov 28, 2012)

mattthemuppet said:


> (or rather, reduce the deceleration of your brain).


To be pedantic, it's to reduce the RATE OF deceleration of your brain. With or without the helmet, your brain goes from current speed to zero. How quickly that happens determines the severity of injury. But I digress.....


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## ChanceG (Nov 17, 2014)

any new setups?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

ChanceG said:


> any new setups?


Lots of folks are using helmets with integral GoPro mounts and attaching their lights via an adapter. There are also some builders/manufacturers offering a GoPro mount option for their lights.


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## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*Hd 3m velcro*

No pictures, but I found a simple solution to my headlamp mounting. I'm using cheap 3 year old ebay Cree lamps_ (and really like them for what it is worth). _I removed the bottom mount that comes on the lamps and applied a piece of *Heavy Duty 3M Velcro* to the full (app. 2" X 2") base(s) of the lamps. On the helmet I applied the opposite type Velcro (hook on one, loop on other) in the area where light would be focused properly and left it longer for adjustment if needed. 
For handlebar mount, I made a nice little bracket out of .060" 6061 Aluminum and bent it & drilled 2 holes to fit between the split handlebar mount of the stem. Used 2 lock washers as shims to keep bracket tight between the 2 halves and tightened bars like normal. Then applied the Velcro to the top of the bracket (app. 2" X 2").
Originally I wrapped a heavy rubber band around the handlebar mount as a back up but do not bother anymore as the *HD 3M Velcro* alone has been proven to be fine by itself.
Strips of regular Velcro work great to hold the cables to the helmet and the frame. When done night riding, pop off the lamps and cables with a 'zip' and store for the next time needed.

_Sorry, not good at posting pictures...._


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