# Basic Cleaning and Maintenance Guide



## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

*Cleaning and Maintenance Photo Guide*

"The Basic Cleaning and Maintenance Guide has been updated and can now be found in the MTBR Pro Review 'How To' section, just follow this link. Please note that comments have been disabled on the guide itself, but please feel free to post your comments and/or criticisms at the end of this thread."


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## Instigator (May 10, 2006)

wow, very detailed to say the least. lol, thanks for the guide


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## mjbjhu (Jun 12, 2006)

Awesome work, this was well worth the wait. the only problem is I can't see the pictures, just the one attached picture at the end. Anyone else see them or is it just my computer? Thanks again for this great guide


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

OK, I thought I'd embedded the photos in the text, but it seems not. Hopefully they're now attached for all to see...


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Very impressive.


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## snowmaniac153 (Jul 11, 2006)

thanks man---just wondering
do any of you guy use Armorall on the sidewalls of your bike to keep sun damage off your tires???or even some on your seat?


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## Mastamind (Jul 13, 2006)

Very nice, detailed, Thank you for the article. I think this should be sticked or something to keep it at the top.


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## EuphoricRunner (Jul 16, 2006)

*simply amazing*

Yeah, this should definitely be stickied. I just got my first bike and this is going a long way to helping me understand what i need to do. 
THANKS!


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## Kingdomseeder (Jun 10, 2006)

Thank you, thank you, thank you


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## importdriver (May 30, 2006)

That is an awesome guide!! But it sounds like a alot of work... since i haven't cleaned my bike for a while.


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## Rocafella24 (Jul 10, 2006)

This should be on the STICKY !!!!


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Thanks very much for the positive responses to the guide, I'm very pleased that people are finding it helpful. I've taken note of the suggestions to make the thread 'sticky' and have put a request in to the people in administration. I haven't heard anything back yet, so, for the time being, if anyone thinks the guide should be kept sticky you can just post a reply, it doesn't even need to say anything.
Thanks again for the feedback,
Peace,
Steve.


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## roypk (Mar 17, 2006)

Thanks Steve.


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## [CrazyRick_11] (May 14, 2006)

awsome guide


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## thegoldfish1129 (Jul 27, 2006)

*Thanks*

Thanks Steve. Great job.


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## GoM33 (Jun 27, 2006)

thanks steve... really appreciate this...
raphael


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## fr4c (Aug 10, 2006)

nice guide/intro to basic bike cleaning. awesome work and well worth a sticky.


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## SmashFace (Aug 4, 2006)

Very informative  My LBS said that my forks didn't require much maintanance. They should have mentioned regular cleaning. The rear derraileur is still a bit of a mystery to me, but I think I just need to rip it off the bike a couple times and that should solve that problem  Thanks for the guide


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## grove (Jul 16, 2006)

sure fire sticky.

thanks for this, your effort is much appreciated.


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## Wick (Apr 28, 2005)

Thanks, that is awesome.:thumbsup:


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## rsl_shot (Aug 8, 2006)

*Thanks*

As a newbie all I can say is awesome. Much needed and much appreciated !!!!


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## mb-matt (Aug 8, 2006)

Much appreciated! thanks


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## titleist990dci (Jun 16, 2006)

very nice


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## rikimaru (Aug 12, 2006)

Sterling work son.


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## Logan84 (Aug 7, 2006)

good work, will give a proper read later as am off riding in abit yay


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## LyncStar (Feb 16, 2006)

Most excellent!!!!


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## Thrasher (Jun 18, 2005)

Great guide! Thanks. And...


> If you're using it for this purpose, I'd suggest finding a nice, quiet corner; sitting yourself down; and having a word with yourself&#8230;


Even though I knew I shouldn't be using this I need to have a word with myself. I'll goto the Bike shop and get a real lubricant. /l


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## Thrasher (Jun 18, 2005)

Hey MTB'ers. I went to my LBS and picked up a bottle of Prolink lube and some simply green degreaser and a drive train cleaning brush. I didn't opt for the chain cleaning machine (powerlink) and decided to clean with the chain on. I just used 5 parts water/1 part degreaser as the bottle said and soaked a rag in the forumla and wiped my chain with it and then proceeded to hand clean it off with paper towels. When all was said and done it looked pretty clean and then I threw on the prolink and let it dry. Went for a spin around the neighborhood and it seemed nice a smooth. I'm just wondering how difficult it is to remove the chain and use a chain cleaning machine and how much better the results would be. I have a chain removal tool I found in my tool box but it's been a good 23 years or so since I changed my chain ( hey I used to be a BMX'er back in the day and knew how to do quite a bit of maintenance - including hubs and headsets).. Anyways, chime in if you can offer some advice.

Edit after looking at my chain I think it would be much better to remove it. It looks like I've got Shimano HG 53 chain on both bikes. From what I've read I just need to remove the main linkage pin. Since I already have the tool I may as well invest in a chain cleaning device. I guess you just need to use a new pin when putting the chain back on. Any suggestions on chain cleaning devices?


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## BlueTrain (Jan 24, 2005)

snowmaniac153 said:


> thanks man---just wondering
> do any of you guy use Armorall on the sidewalls of your bike to keep sun damage off your tires???or even some on your seat?


well, tires should be worn out before any type of "sun damage" gets to them. and armor all on your seat? er.. no.. methinks that would be a wee bit too slickery.


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## sacto (Aug 30, 2006)

certainly some NUGGETS of cleaning truth here, THANKS :thumbsup:


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## Sorbut (Mar 7, 2006)

good stuff - now all I need is a cure for chronic lazyness - really good practical advice. In consequence of my energy levels I have used my compressor with diesel. However, if anyone does this or similar and I dont recomend it, remember diesel dissolves grease so not into BB, its not good on nitril seals, so watch the shocks etc, its will make a grindy paste if yu ride too soon, and in a spray form its CARCINOGENIC so dont breath it. Dam, almost talked myself out of doing this.


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## Xenotime (Jun 1, 2006)

Very nice guide! Keep up the good work!


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

steve

just noticed that nifty plate that protects the bottom bracket and lower pivot, it's trick, like a skid plate

looks like some thin, easily bendable aluminum, but i can't figure out how it is secured

how does it stay on there, by the screw for the plastic front derailer cable guide?

thanks


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey,

The plates are plastic, I made them out of a DVD box after I got a stone lodged behind one of my main pivot bearings. First, I got the shapes I needed by cutting them out of card then used them as templates for cutting the DVD box. I bent the pieces by leaving them in boiling water for 5/10 mins before pressing them around the pivot and BB to get the shape. Attaching them is a little fiddly; two holes drilled in each then fastened to the seat stay with two cable ties. If you're riding an FSR, I guess the same design will work for you too. 
Peace,
Steve

edit: if you/anyone would like pictures of the pieces and how they fit together, just let me know...


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## Sorbut (Mar 7, 2006)

Heres a stupid one with half baked recovery. I clean my bike with diesel in a compressor. not good for number of reasons but ..(wear a mask). I cover the calliper and clean the disk with meths once finished. forgot didnt I so got diesel on pads. Most amazing squeal resulted. To clean I put the pads in the oven and cooked them to evaporate the diesel etc then light sand for resulting carbon layer. It works if you do get oils on the pads but best is not to do that in the first place.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Sorbut,

Am I getting this right? Do you clean your bike with compressed diesel? That is, you spray diesel, the stuff that car/truck engines run on, all over your bike? 

Steve


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## Sorbut (Mar 7, 2006)

yep. put it in a cleaning pot on compressor and use it to clean the derailleurs, shifters, basically everything except (usually) the callipers. Kerosine is also OK but not sure on compressing that - might have other issues. I blow the diesel off with the compressor as well. Its a good cleaner and has no rust issues. Leaves no residue for dirt to stick to. Only issue is that atomised diesel is a tad carcinogenic, hence a respirator mask. Diesel does dissolve grease so I dont blow it too hard around hubs or BB.My derailleurs are ceramic and I use silicon lube. I ride in a lot of sand and am quite careful on lubes or I just end up with a grinding paste. I also strip stuff regularly and only use a marine non-water soluble grease with rust inhibitor. The diesel is great at cleaning it out of the BB bearings (yep I pick the seals off) and the hub bearings. Diesel is a lubricant as well as a fuel. I think it possibly goes without saying that petrol is a really bad idea. As to the all over part - well yes I do clean the bike frame with it too, tyres as well.


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

SteveUK said:


> Hey,
> 
> The plates are plastic, I made them out of a DVD box after I got a stone lodged behind one of my main pivot bearings. First, I got the shapes I needed by cutting them out of card then used them as templates for cutting the DVD box. I bent the pieces by leaving them in boiling water for 5/10 mins before pressing them around the pivot and BB to get the shape. Attaching them is a little fiddly; two holes drilled in each then fastened to the seat stay with two cable ties. If you're riding an FSR, I guess the same design will work for you too.
> Peace,
> ...


steve

yeah, love to see those photos of putting on that skid plate...it really looks like metal in the pix above...thanks bro


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

*Main Pivot Guard Plate*

I'm hoping the pictures are pretty self explanatory. The only 'must' is that you make sure the top plate overlaps the bottom one, so water/mud can run off and away. The front of the top plate is actually cut out more than it appears. There's a strip of electricians tape over a larger 'cut away' to take into account the movement of the rear suspension, whilst still protecting the pivot. You should be able to make it out on the bottom left picture in the block of four.

















I've had that in place for over six months and only removed it today to take the pictures. Although the inside of the bottom plate was fairly dirty (run off from the down tube), the pivot and stay were both more or less clean. Job done.

Peace,
Steve

(UK Design Rights 28/9/2006)


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

wow man, nice...i'll give this a try..this could be a more general hop up for any frame


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

Let me first say that I'm not trying to start a fight here. But I thought I should mention some of the risks associated with cleaning and maintaining your bike.
If you are not as meticulous or mechanically skilled as SteveUK obviously is (just look at how perfect that plastic piece he made is), you may end up breaking stuff in and attempt to clean/maintain it. For example, removing the chain requires removing and replacing pins, which if done improperly can result in a greater likelihood of chain failure on the trail. Removing your rear derailleur to clean it could result in cross-threading the derailleur hanger when reinstalling if you are not careful and if your bike does not have a replaceable derailleur hanger (mine doesn't), you are in some real trouble. Anytime you take something apart you risk losing parts, breaking stuff, or incorrectly reassembling it.

To use computer maintenance as an analogy, you can go on computer forums and find people complaining about repeated hard drive failures that say "I do full backups daily and defrag twice a week" in an effort to show how well they take care of their drives, but the stress from those frequent backups and defragging are probably what is causing their HDs to fail. Sometimes less is better.

I think some of us are better off doing some simple cleaning and lubing of the components while they are still on the bike. It's not going to be as effective as the recommendations given by SteveUK, but it may be good enough for your needs and may keep your from messing up your bike. Plus, that looks like a hell of a lot of work.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_Removing your rear derailleur to clean it could result in cross-threading the derailleur hanger when reinstalling if you are not careful and if your bike does not have a replaceable derailleur hanger (mine doesn't), you are in some real trouble_."

Here's what I've said in the guide;

"To re-fit, hold the mech as per the photo to ensure that the body adjust screw has cleared the mech hanger stop. Take care when re-fitting the derailleur that you're matching the threads with the mech hanger. If threading feels tight, back it off and try again; it should thread on easily until you torque it up at the end of the thread."

If you've read the short note I added about buying and using tools, you'll have seen that I've mentioned the risks involved in doing your own wrenching. However, the more you do things the less likely it becomes that you'll mess something up. We all understand this, it's why so many people take their bikes to a shop to be maintained; a) the risk is with somebody else; and b) they've made their mistakes way back when and are less likely to muck up on your bike. I say 'make your own mistakes, just remember to learn from them'.
Computers and bikes are very poor at supplying each other with analogies. If I only defragment my hard drive every ten years, then it's going to take me a relatively long time to do the defrag when I do do it, but it'll be done all the same. Maybe even some computer expert will come along and do it quicker, or offer a better alternative, but the end result will be the _same physical component_ doing the job. If I don't clean and relube my chain it'll work for a few months and then it will fail. When I say 'fail', I mean that it will never work again, it will be 'worn out', it will cease to be effective. Nobody can fix it. In that same period of time, my rapidly wearing chain has been rapidly wearing my cassette, my jockey wheels and my chain set. Same as the chain, when these components have physically worn away, they have to be replaced with new ones. Have you ever priced out even a cheap complete drivetrain? Obviously, components have to be renewed periodically, but the reason for my guide is to assist people in getting not only more from their components, but also in getting more from their riding as a result of not having to stop every few miles to adjust cack-filled componets, or becoming frustrated that their shiny new chain is spinning like crazy over their worn out cassette whenever they try to climb a hill. 
I can't give people the confidence to start pulling their bike apart and putting it back together to keep it running sweet, they have to develop that for themselves. But they're never going to get that confidence, or the knowledge and experience, if they're just too darn afraid to try in the first place. What I can do is show them how I've done it, if for no other reason than to show them that it can be done by yourself, and relatively simply, too. 
The guide is there because enough people asked for it, so there are (thankfully) enough people who are at least willing to have a go at doing their own wrenching. It's true that some of them will thread stuff (or worse), and that some of those incidents will be more costly than others, but so what? I've bust stuff, (I've only been doing this for a couple of years, by the way), plenty of stuff, but I've never done the same component or bolt twice.

My only advice to folk would be; do it carefully, but do it all the same. I think that that message is clear throughout my maintenance guide.
As I've said before, I welcome any constructive criticism and I welcome any information that would add to the effectiveness of the guide. I don't think that suggesting people don't even try would fall into either of those catagories. 
Sincere regards,
Steve

PS I will make an addition to the guide which will cover the breaking/closing of a chain which doesn't use a Powerlink, thanks for pointing that out.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

I just want to make it clear that I am not criticizing you're methods. You are doing an outstanding job of maintaining your bike and your article is very useful (and I'm way impressed by what you did with that piece of plastic). 

But, since this is on the Beginners Forum, I wanted to note that there is some risk in taking things apart to clean them and that some of us get by fine without taking our bike apart for cleaning. I never said that they shouldn't clean their chain. I've been mountain biking since the early 90s and only had one chain failure, and that was due to an incorrectly adjusted rear derailleur (from the bike shop) that grabbed the spokes. So cleaning and lubing the chain (and other components) while still on the bike is working fine for me. It certainly doesn't get the chain as clean as if I took it off, but my chains last for years and my shifting is good so it's good enough for me. My main mountain bike is almost 10 years old now and still has a lot of its original components. I've replaced the rear derailleur and cassette once (just recently) and the chain and cables a couple of times. I don't even think I really needed to change the cassette, but I thought "10 years?". Now I should mention that I have another older mountain bike and a road bike that I also use, so my mileage is split between the 3 bikes, but still, 10 years and most of the original components must mean that my maintenance is not all that bad. My other two bikes are even older and still have most of their original components as well. I generally only clean them once every 3 or 4 weeks when I'm riding regularly and I stay off the trails when they're muddy. 

Again, there is no way that I am trying to say that what I'm doing for maintenance compares to what you are doing, only that there are other alternatives. Certainly, your bike(s) are better maintained than mine, but what I'm doing is working fine for me and I'm not running the risk of breaking stuff when I take it apart, and this information may be useful to beginners.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Trailville,

Please go back and _read_ the guide, then read my reply to your original post.
The guide is not there for people who _don't_ want to maintain their bike, it's there for the people who do, and I figure that if something is worth doing, it's worth doing it well.

It appears obvious that if you weren't so terrified of breaking something (way, way harder than you'd believe) then you would maybe attempt procedures like removing a rear derailleur. Then again, maybe you wouldn't. Perhaps we should also suggest that folk don't ride their bikes, either, in case they break something, or hurt themselves.

The guide shows people how they _could_ do something; a set of relatively simple tasks, and there are risks involved in some of those tasks. But, if they pay attention to what they're doing, and take it easy until their confidence/experience grows, then there's no reason why they shouldn't be able to whip their chain and/or mech off for cleaning. It's actually easier, more simple and quicker to remove these components for maintenance than it is to leave them on the bike. Most importantly, though, it is more effective.

I'm really feeling like I'm repeating myself now, so please, go back and read the guide. The coverage of the risks involved is relative to the probability of actually breaking something, and I've already made a point of mentioning which procedures people may get caught out on. I have confidence in my descriptions of these tasks and their associated risks, and I have confidence in people to be able to follow them, should they choose to do so.

You are telling people that they don't need to go to the extent that the guide suggests, and I agree that there are degrees by which things can be done, but I wholeheartedly disagree that people should refrain from doing any of these procedures, in the way that I suggest or otherwise, on the grounds that they are too risky. This is quite simply not the case.
Peace,
Steve


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

SteveUK, nice work......

RE: chain lube, I used to use warm parafin (wax) and mineral spirit formula on my roadie. It lasts a loooong time, does not attract dirt, and lubes quite well. 

Problem is I forgot how to do it :madman: 

If anyone knows that procedure, this would be a good place to insert it!:eekster:

SM


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## Vinny A (Oct 8, 2006)

Awesome job Steve. Its a great guide and when I have to clean my bike I will definatly refer to it again. Its not drastically different from road bike mantience (which I am used to) but then again, every bit helps.

In regards to what trailville said about breaking something when stripping it down. I haven't done any intensive work on a mountian bike, but I have on road and BMX bikes. If you just pay careful attention to how everything it put together, it all works out. If you are forgetful (like me) break out a note pad, and a pencil. Make a diagram of where the components go so that when it comes time to put them back together you know where everything goes and theres no guessing. 

Thanks again Steve for this great guide. This forum is full of great info thanks to people like you!


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## MJBayUNL (Apr 30, 2006)

Very helpfull, there is a trick that I would like to add. Any time that a part is taken off, and then replaced, if it is threaded a LBS will put a dob of grease on the threads. Some times softer aluminum parts can seize up and become difficult to get off. So a dob of axle or bearing grease will always do the trick.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"Any time that a part is taken off, and then replaced, if it is threaded a LBS will put a dob of grease on the threads. Some times softer aluminum parts can seize up and become difficult to get off. So a dob of axle or bearing grease will always do the trick".

Here's what I wrote...

"Before you refit any bolts or threaded components, wipe down the threads as best you can; both male and female threads. Apply either a small amount of grease or a thread lock adhesive, depending on the part, before refitting. I only use thread lock (Loctite 243) on my stem clamp bolts, caliper bolts and rotor bolts."

...I just didn't say why. It's a good point though, although the steel bolts may sieze in aluminium parts because of corrosion/oxidation, rather than just because the aluminium is 'soft'. 
To add to the recommendation; put the grease on the end of the bolt you're threading in and it will be evenly spread by the action of threading the bolt in.


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## MJBayUNL (Apr 30, 2006)

sorry Steve I was just skimming through and missed that, and ill say it again, very helpful guide


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

No problem, man.You reminded me that I should sometimes explain _why_ I do stuff. It's easy to forget when I do stuff like it's second nature, and saying why you do something can be as important as how, so cheers.
Peace,
Steve


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## P.Jay (Oct 18, 2006)

Great guides!

I'd be really interested in seeing the guide for DMR Revolver bearing and hub replacement, could you let me know how I might find it?

With Kind Regards
Paul


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey P.Jay,

The DMR isn't a hugely common hub for MTB application so I haven't yet compiled a full guide yet (like the maintenance guide), I didn't anticipate too much interest!! I'll pull the text and photos together and post the guide for you tomorrow evening.
Peace,
Steve


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## P.Jay (Oct 18, 2006)

Thanks Steve, you're a star.

I've just bought a pair of wheels based on the DMR Revolvers and have since heard that, although they're good hubs, the freehub body can be prone to quick wear so it'll be a useful skill to have!

With Kind Regards
Paul


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey P.Jay,

The Revolver guide is on the Everything Drivetrain forum. Here's the link...

Steve


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## P.Jay (Oct 18, 2006)

Many thanks, that's an excellent guide.

I do appreciate it.

Paul


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## anirban (Apr 20, 2006)

Thanks a lot Steve! Now I can sit this evening and take my bike apart and clean it... and forget about my circuit analysis exam tomorrow! 

A very well written guide! I have a quick question- The alcohol to use to clean the rotors- can I just use my bare hands to apply them? Or should I use a cloth/glove? I was told that it may cause rash or irritation on some people if touched directly.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey anirban,

Isopopyl Alcohol is not an irritant as such (like DOT fluid is), but it is great at removing any grease/oils, so it's going to dry your skin, too. I've always worked with my hands so the skin is pretty tough and, although it does visibly dry after it has been in contact with the alcohol, it's fine after a good rinse with moisturising soap and water. I guess the sensible thing to do is to wear latex gloves when working with any maintenance chemicals, or even with the greases/oils/waxes used to lube stuff up. However, if you try using them when you're rubbing a rotor down they'll probably get shredded pretty quickly. If you're concerned about irritation, or know that you have particularly sensitive skin, just use a heavy cloth to apply the alcohol. 
I'm no dermatologist so, beyond what I've said here, I'm not really qualified to advise you directly on this, I'm sure you'll understand. 
Peace,
Steve


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## atvsmurf (Mar 9, 2005)

SteveUK said:


> put the grease on the end of the bolt you're threading in and it will be evenly spread by the action of threading the bolt in.


If the bolt hole is not open on the back, then smear the grease on the threads, a glob of grease on the end could build hydraulic pressure as the bolt is tightened and split the part with the hole. I am not trying to pick, just adding to a great post:thumbsup:


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Cheers for that, atvsmurf; it's a good point, although remember that bike parts are almost all bolted at a relatively low torque. 
Have you actually experienced this? Even working on motor vehicles for several years, it's not something I've ever seen. 

Remember that you're only greasing threads to act as a protective layer against corrosion and to aid the removal of bolts at a later date; so just smear on a small dab.
Peace,
Steve


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## journey (Jan 27, 2004)

Thrasher said:


> ... I didn't opt for the chain cleaning machine (powerlink) and decided to clean with the chain on. ... I have a chain removal tool I found in my tool box but it's been a good 23 years or so ...
> 
> Edit after looking at my chain I think it would be much better to remove it. It looks like I've got Shimano HG 53 chain on both bikes. From what I've read I just need to remove the main linkage pin. Since I already have the tool I may as well invest in a chain cleaning device. I guess you just need to use a new pin when putting the chain back on. Any suggestions on chain cleaning devices?


While a really dirty chain can affect shifting, the primary purpose in cleaning a chain is to reduce wear. A woren chain becomes longer, which in turn wears out cassettes & chainrings much more quickly. Chain wear occurs on the 'inside' of a chain between the surface areas of the 'pin' and 'roller' that goes around the pin (two pin/roller combinations per link). Wiping down a chain does not help clean the inside of the chain. To clean the chain, it needs to be emersed in a de-greaser to removed the dirt & muck from the inside surfaces.

Most articles I read suggest that removing the chaining and cleaning it as suggested above (i.e., shake in mineral spirits, simply green, orange based degreaser, etc., rinse & shake again) cleans the chain best. The next best is using a chain cleaning tool. Once you let the chain dry, then you apply lubricant & give it time to get get inside the chain. Then you wipe it down, removing as much extra lubricant as you can -- the more lubricant you leave on, the more dirt that till be attracked.

As far as removing a chain by pulling the pin & reinserting it, doing this will weaken your chain some, although YMMV. If you do this, I would recommend practicing it on an old chain -- if you do not have one, ask a LBS for some extra links for practice. There's nothing like attempting to put a popped chain back together while sitting on the site of trail--practicing ahead of time helps ;-)

Many chain vendors now sell some version of a SRAM's quick link (or is it power link?), which is a link that is designed to come apart more easily. The SRAM version does not require tools if you know the secret handshake ;-) Not all 9-speed chains have the exact same width--SRAM chains are slightly wider than the Shimano chains. KMC chains are the same width as Shimano chains, so if you got one of the KMC quick links (I forget the exact name), you should be able to use it on a Shimano chain (SRAM quick links may work with Shimano chains but I have never tried it).


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

The KMC 'Missing Link' is not like the SRAM Powerlink. It works in the same way to connect a chain when it is first put on a bike, but does not come apart again without popping the pin. I alternate between two chains; a Shimano XTR/Dura-Ace and a KMC X9 and use a SRAM 9spd Powerlink with both of them. For what it's worth, I highly recommend the KMC X9; it out-performs the XTR noticably. Time will tell if it is as durable.


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## journey (Jan 27, 2004)

SteveUK said:


> The KMC 'Missing Link' is not like the SRAM Powerlink. It works in the same way to connect a chain when it is first put on a bike, but does not come apart again without popping the pin. I alternate between two chains; a Shimano XTR/Dura-Ace and a KMC X9 and use a SRAM 9spd Powerlink with both of them. For what it's worth, I highly recommend the KMC X9; it out-performs the XTR noticably. Time will tell if it is as durable.


Regarding the KMC missing link, did you read somewhere that it is only intended to be put together only once? It does go together differently than most other quick links such as SRAM's or Connex's in that in order to get it to 'set', you have to apply tension on the chain whereas, most of the others just slide together.

Anyway, the KMC missing link will come apart using a pair needle nose plyers -- I have done it several times now. Its not as easy to pull apart as the Connex or SRAM but it works and should be more reliable than pulling & replacing a pin back into an Shimano / KMC chain.

Also, are you using an X9 (has 'silver' coating only on the outer plates) or an X9.99 chain (has 'silver' coating on inner & outer plates)? When I purchased my KMC, my LBS only had the X9.99 in stock (more $$ of course).


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

I read on the instruction leaflet supplied with my X9 that the Missing Link is intended to make initially fitting the chain easier, ie. no tools, but that to split the chain in future one must use a normal chain-pin removal tool. I turned the spare links and the Missing Link into a rather nice key-ring....









I use the X9.92 with the black inner plates. They're usually the same price as the XTR.
Peace,
Steve


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## atvsmurf (Mar 9, 2005)

SteveUK said:


> Have you actually experienced this? Even working on motor vehicles for several years, it's not something I've ever seen.
> 
> Remember that you're only greasing threads to act as a protective layer against corrosion and to aid the removal of bolts at a later date; so just smear on a small dab.
> Peace,
> Steve


Once, well actually twice...back in the eighties, on an old work truck. I was changing a flat tire and put a large dab of grease in the lug nuts (closed ended) and torqued the first one and it popped, well I never thought of the grease doing that so I tightened another and it popped. So I figured out what was happening. The strange thing is that it didn't take much torque at all. I figure aluminum would be even easier to split.


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## ZenZhu (Nov 11, 2006)

As a newbie that is trying to pick up the skills for maintenance/repair as the need arises, I'd like to tell my fellow newbies to fear not. You definitely want to work within your current skill range. If it looks like too big a task to tackle, you may want to contact your LBS. Better yet, find one that might let you sit in on what they're doing. If you have a local bike group, bike coalition, etc., that you're familiar with, you may be able to find someone in that organization that would be willing to walk you through what you need in exchange for a fee, meal, case of beer, whatever.

But as far as routine cleaning and troubleshooting small problems, don't fear the challenge. Personally, I'm finding cleaning my bike to be pleasant. After I ride a trail, I set it up at home and give it a good wipe-down at the very least. I also check for stress and such. I also run through the gears and all just to see if anything sounds funny.

As you get a feel for routine and basic maintenance, you might start tackling some smaller problems as they come up. Tonight I noticed my chain was catching in 7th gear in the rear. When I got back, I set it up and just kind of ran it through a few revolutions. It turned out one of the cogs on the 6th gear was catching the chain and tugging on it as it hit that point in the revolution. I first thought it might be bent, but I couldn't see any evidence that it was. So, the first thing I did was give the chain and cassette a good cleaning, but that didn't quite alleviate the problem. I put a little lube on the chain and that helped some, but it was still catching. So, I figured I'd be a little ballsy and rotate the tension knob on the derailleur. I guess it had gotten a little off and was pushing the chain against the 6th gear wheel when in 7th gear. I finished up, took it down the street, and everything seemed kosher.

The feeling was very satisfying, and just the chance to kind of chill out in the garage with the rain, a CD of classical music, and my bike was very relaxing. Of course, if it had turned out to be something over my head, I would have referred it to my LBS. No point in learning the hard.. and expensive way by having to haul your bike in after you mangled it in your efforts. Start small and easy and the skills will come in time. But, sometimes it pays to go out on a limb and say, "Let's see if I can fix the problem if I do.... THIS..."

Maintenance and repairs can seem intimidating at first, but start small and learn from those more skilled when you can.. and someday you'll be the ones writing these articles instead of reading them. It might seem like a chore, but you really can turn it into something enjoyable.. almost meditative.


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## jim453 (Oct 23, 2006)

An amazingly comprehensive guide Steve. I only wish I could be arsed to do half of the things that you correctly recomend. You are hard core. Also, don't be so sensitive if someone has not read the (very long) document and tries to suggest amendments. Since the majority of this thread consists of people saying how faultless it is, relax and be happy with a job unbelievably well done. How do you find time to read the thread any way, or go riding for that matter? I have this vision of your bike coming home from the lbs and being immedeatley disassembled and remaining on a tarp on the garage floor ever since. I'm sure this is not the case. Well done.


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## jim453 (Oct 23, 2006)

An amazingly comprehensive guide Steve. I only wish I could be arsed to do half of the things that you correctly recomend. You are hard core. Also, don't be so sensitive if someone has not read the (very long) document and tries to suggest amendments. Since the majority of this thread consists of people saying how faultless it is, relax and be happy with a job unbelievably well done. How do you find time to read the thread any way, or go riding for that matter? I have this vision of your bike coming home from the lbs and being immedeatley disassembled and remaining on a tarp on the garage floor ever since. I'm sure this is not the case. Well done.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey Jim, cheers for that. There are certainly times when I can't be arsed, but my bike is my only transport, so, if for no other reason than that, it's important that it's running sweet every day. Saying that, it's my nature to look after things, and it's in my nature to be irritated by creaks/squeeks/clicks etc.,so luckily the former tends to cover me for the latter!
Ha, yeah, I guess I could give the impression that my bike is permanently in bits in the workshop, but you're right, it's not the case. I work fast. I'll do everything in the guide in an hour or so if I just get stuck in (some Miles Davis helps!) although obviously that wasn't always the case. All tasks get quicker and easier the more one does them.
I sometimes waver on my 'no smileys' rule, but I just can't do it!! I honestly don't mind when people offer amendments that I've already covered. However, I'm going to point it out if I have already covered something, so at least maybe people _will_ read the whole guide (it's not _that_ long!) before adding their 2cents. As much as I'm pleased for the guide to develop over time, as it has, I'd prefer not to have a stream of repeated info for people to wade through. I also tend to not beat around the bush, so sometimes my being direct can be mistaken for being annoyed/irritated. It's really not so; I'm a cheery kind of guy, truely! 
I enjoy working on my bike and I also like to share what I've learned. This guide came about because there were so many people asking about getting started with maintenance and their concerns about keeping stuff cleaned and well lubed. I like the fact that so may people want to look after their own bike rather than wheel it to the shop every time something needs doing, and it only takes a small amount of knowledge and confidence to de-mystify things like rear derailleur and kick-start one's inner-wrench, so I'll admit to getting slightly frustrated when posts appear telling people to avoid doing things themselves and I'll offer no apologies for that.
Again, cheers for your comments and welcome to MTBR forums,
Peace,
Steve


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## ZenZhu (Nov 11, 2006)

I can attest to the "inner wrench" thing. As I try my hand at new things, such as degreasing and lubing, partially disassembling the rear derailleur (just taking the pannel off to get the sprockets free to clean), adjusting disc brakes (which I think my LBS misaligned) and swapping out stems, I start to find it more and more pittiable that there isn't something I can spend about an hour doing each evening. It's very pleasant to be out in the garage, a CD of classical music on, listening to the wind or rain while tinkering with my bike.

Another benefit of learning how to maintain your bike is learning how to fix something that your shop may have messed up. Newbies like myself probably tend to consider the folks at an LBS infallable, but they're only human.. and sometimes things get overlooked during a time when lots of orders are coming in, or the person putting your bike together may have a different preference for something and put it back on differently than you would. In my case, I noticed my disc brakes were rubbing a bit too much. When I took a look at them, I noticed that my LBS had put them on with the rotor rubbing against the mobile pad.... which meant that it bent the rotor toward the immobile pad whenever I applied my brakes. I figured this was probably not a good thing, even though it makes it easier to adjust the amount of rub with a simple turn of the inner pad's screw. So, I downloaded the instructions for my Tektro brakes and made sure of where the mounting screws were before I messed with anything. It turns out it was an easy fix.

I don't know about most bike shops, but the couple of times I've taken mine back to the shop where I bought it, anything that had to be taken off gets reattached based on the mechanic's personal preferences. For example, my brake and gear levers always come back angled about 80 degrees down.... basically pointing down at the ground. So, knowing how to tweak your bike back the way you want it when you get it back from the shop for more serious work helps you keep the bike configured and operating to your personal preferences.

As you progress from newbie to a more proficient rider, you'll also probably find yourself wanting to swap out pedals, tires, saddles and other parts. Sometimes this will be because the factory-issue parts don't meet your needs. Other times this will be because the factory-issue parts don't hold up all that well. Really, if you do the math on the cost of a bike that comes from the dealer to the LBS and then to you, it doesn't always add up. When you look at the cost of quality parts, you start to wonder how they can sell you that Raleigh or Trek or whatever for $500 when it seems like the parts all together would be $700-$800. So, knowing how to maintain your bike, check for wear, and replace with parts you need or want helps you keep your bike going and lets you improve the quality of your parts and ride as your skill develops.

Personally, I have come to see good maintenance as part of the total package of.... I guess you could say the "riding lifestyle." You don't just ride your bike, you train your body to ride well, and maintain/outfit your bike to ride well as.. er.. well.


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## Xenotime (Jun 1, 2006)

For all people who has trouble with disk brakes... Mechanicals/Hydraulics... This is a mad link to check out! :thumbsup:

The last part is pretty sick! Potentially helpful... Geez, I was struggling like an idiot figuring how to centering my pads...


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## ZenZhu (Nov 11, 2006)

Thanks for the link. Adjusting disc brakes can seem intimidating once you start thinking about it, but if you do some looking online you can usually find good guides. Most of the bike maintenance books I've looked at seem to gloss over disc brakes. If all else fails, find out what brakes you have and download the instructions. The instructions for my Tektro IOs had a centering guide.

I really like the idea of slipping business cards between the pads and the rotors to make sure you leave a little space.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"Most of the bike maintenance books I've looked at seem to gloss over disc brakes"

The trouble with covering disc brakes in any kind of guide is the relatively large number of set-up differences between the manufacturers systems. I bought my Hope's used and the first thing I did was to download the service instructions direct from Hope, after all, they do know best. The internet can be a good source for 'tricks', but the horses mouth, as they say, is always the best place to start.
Peace,
Steve


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## Xenotime (Jun 1, 2006)

SteveUK said:


> "Most of the bike maintenance books I've looked at seem to gloss over disc brakes"
> 
> The trouble with covering disc brakes in any kind of guide is the relatively large number of set-up differences between the manufacturers systems. I bought my Hope's used and the first thing I did was to download the service instructions direct from Hope, after all, they do know best. The internet can be a good source for 'tricks', but the horses mouth, as they say, is always the best place to start.
> Peace,
> Steve


Why not add it to your post SteveUK? About the business card thingi... 

PS: All bikers that has disks brakes (any),keep 2 business cards in your repair box as a tip. LoL


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## Xenotime (Jun 1, 2006)

ZenZhu said:


> Thanks for the link. Adjusting disc brakes can seem intimidating once you start thinking about it, but if you do some looking online you can usually find good guides. Most of the bike maintenance books I've looked at seem to gloss over disc brakes. If all else fails, find out what brakes you have and download the instructions. The instructions for my Tektro IOs had a centering guide.
> 
> I really like the idea of slipping business cards between the pads and the rotors to make sure you leave a little space.


That is why I posted it up... I like business cards now!!!  Very useful! :thumbsup:

PS: All bikers that has disks brakes (any),keep 2 business cards in your repair box as a tip. LoL


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## ZenZhu (Nov 11, 2006)

I was adjusting my front brake this evening since it had been a little "grabby." I tried the trick with the business cards, but that left a bit too much space for my tastes. The braking was way too "squishy" after that. So, I just used a piece of paper between the rotor and the pads and that got things where I wanted them. Due to the weather, I wasn't able to see how the braking after that fared, but I suspect if they're still a little grabby at the rotor, but a little squishy and the handle, the trick will be to increase the spacing between the pads and tighten up the tension on the adjustor knob that's actually on the brake housing. It seems to me the tension knob on the lever doesn't really do much except for tweaking your braking once you have the spacing on the pads and the tension on the lower knob set about right.


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## seis66 (Nov 17, 2006)

Good morning, my good cycling fellas!
Steve, what a great thread! It went directly to my bookmark so I can - hopefully - maintain my bike instead of paying for it..
Now regarding maintaining itself, how often should I do it? every time I finish riding my bike? every week? every month?

Thanks again!


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

_"Now regarding maintaining itself, how often should I do it?"_

Thanks for your comments, seis66. Check out the second paragraph! That covers the 'how often' question.


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## Xenotime (Jun 1, 2006)

*Oh please... Not too much...*



seis66 said:


> Good morning, my good cycling fellas!
> Steve, what a great thread! It went directly to my bookmark so I can - hopefully - maintain my bike instead of paying for it..
> Now regarding maintaining itself, how often should I do it? every time I finish riding my bike? every week? every month?
> 
> Thanks again!


It depends what kind of maintainance and where you rode... 

For me, it depends how much I love my bike. I maintain it every week. But don't clean it every ride (unless it is a really tough trail) , it is ridiculous and total waste of time. 

And no, I'm not been sarcastic.  I would clean my bike when ever I felt like it. :thumbsup:


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## Slapdogs (Mar 5, 2007)

Just a wonderful step by step guide to maintainance. Thank you for these great tips, I foolishly used WD40 as a degreaser in the past, now after reading your fine points, I know better.

Congrats on a fantastic presentation!!!!!!


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## travismp (Mar 21, 2007)

I am brand new. I copied this to a word doc to print out and take home. It was 10 full pages! WOW great work. Thanks for the REAL WORLD help.


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## and_woox (Mar 13, 2007)

Today i finished the first part of my bike maintenance.
Nice going!


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## rotty2004 (Apr 7, 2007)

THIS IS SOOOO GOOOOOD!

THanks,


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## DMoreau (Jun 1, 2007)

Thanks for the guide, it's been very useful

When cleaning the chain you suggested using mineral spirits in a jar. Would it be okay to use laquer thinner. It's basically the same thing, except it is much strong. We have a large amount of laquer thinner at work


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## Sorbut (Mar 7, 2006)

DMoreau said:


> Thanks for the guide, it's been very useful
> 
> When cleaning the chain you suggested using mineral spirits in a jar. Would it be okay to use laquer thinner. It's basically the same thing, except it is much strong. We have a large amount of laquer thinner at work


All that type of chemical will work, mineral spirits, thinners, acetone, or get it really really clean and use MEK, or worse. problem is they will take ALL lubricant out, promote rust, and can be really toxic. This last is the worst IMO. Things like this take all the oil out of your skin as well allowing them easy access to the blood stream etc, not to mention what the fumes do. Gloves arent practical for most bike work and have limited value. Dont use that sort of thing, the long term issues well exceed the value of a chain. Mineral spirits is as much as you want to use.


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## Joefester (Jun 8, 2007)

Nice one steve, i just bought my first proper bike about 4 months ago, a trek 6000, and this is really helping me keep it in top condition.


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## ir12daveor (May 17, 2007)

*Head Set*

Can anyone tell me how tight I should tighten my head set, and what are the problems I can have if I over tighten it?

Cheers,
Dave.


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## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

ir12daveor said:


> Can anyone tell me how tight I should tighten my head set, and what are the problems I can have if I over tighten it?


Here's a comprehensive guide from Park Tool.

The thing to understand is that the headset bolt itself only preloads the headset bearings - there's no need to really wrench that thing down (in fact, don't do that!). Many folks are under the impression that that bolt is what holds the fork "on". Not true. That's why, when you tighten up the stem/headset, you tighten (not crank) that bolt down first, and then you tighten up your stem's steerer tube bolts down to specified torque. Your stem is then what holds the fork on (or in, whatever).

If you over tighten that bolt, you risk mushing down on the bearings, and your heaset will feel too "tight".

Now that I read it, the Park Tool instructions aren't terribly complete. They say to "snug" the stem bolts - that's just to prevent the stem from freely swinging around as you tighten the headset top cap bolt. After you tighten the headset top cap bolt down, then go back and torque down the stem bolts.

Cheers, Chris


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## mfranklin01 (Jun 10, 2007)

just ran across this thread. seeing as how i just got my bike on monday (already rode it a couple of times :thumbsup: ) im prob. gonna print out your guide so i can keep it handy. great thread.


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## GreenCountry (Jun 5, 2007)

*Cliff's Notes: Drivetrain cleaning quick version?*

Great, extremely thorough guide Steve. Will definitely refer back to it.

I have a question about the lower level of drivetrain cleaning I am more accustomed to doing (I've relied on the LBS for the Steve-level cleanings). I don't usually remove the chain, but I use a chain-cleaning tool (the kind that is basically a box with various rotating brushes inside - you fit the whole box over the chain, put in some degreaser, and run the chain through a few crank spins). I usually just put on degreaser all over the drivetrain, brush all gunk off either with a brush or the chain tool (for gunk on the chain), wipe it all down, and re-lube immediately with Tri-flow spray-lube whether or not it's totally dry. My question is: for this type of drivetrain cleaning, how does the re-lubing part work? Should I cloth-dry the drivetrain and immediately re-lube? Let the whole thing air dry and then re-lube? Or...?

Second question: should I be using water in addition to the degreaser, to do the cleaning? I had always avoided water entirely for fear of rust. But I'm not so sure anymore.

Also, comments on the effectiveness (or lack) of my version of "fast-lane" cleaning welcome.

Thanks,
GC


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## Chris130 (Mar 28, 2005)

I used to think those chain-cleaning dealios were quite the sweet deal, but now I know better! The main problem with them is that they get degreaser everywhere - it can leak into the BB, the derailleur, etc, etc - places you don't want it to go. Granted, it's not a lot, but it does add up. And once that degreaser's been "applied" all over your drivetrain by one of those things, it's just "there" - it doesn't ever get cleaned out or wiped off adequately.

My rule with degreaser is that it doesn't ever touch my _bike as a whole_ - only specific parts that have been removed (or _VERY_ carefully isolated in rare cases) from the bike proper for cleaning.

The cleaning you can do by removing the chain for cleaning and then brushing/wiping down (no degreaser!) the chainrings and cassette is MUCH better than any job that device can ever do. And, with a PowerLink in the chain, is actually easier and faster for the quality of work done.

Anyhoo, once the chain is "clean", let it dry out, reattach it, and then apply whatever lube you like - _follow the directions on the lube! _ How they are applied can vary depending on what you use.

Truth be told, you don't have to degrease or otherwise aggressively clean your chain very often (conditions permitting, of course) if you keep it regularly & properly lubed, and wipe it down after each ride. Use one of those terrycloth shop towels to wipe it down - they do a great job of removing gunk. I use the same rag to "floss" my cassette when it gets gunky - works llike a champ.

Cheers, Chris


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## fueleater (Dec 27, 2006)

Wow thanks for that info, that's going to come in useful when I clean my woodstock 707


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## fw98 (Jul 16, 2007)

Steve,

Greetings from Los Angeles! Thanks a lot for the wonderful guide.


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## Munich888 (Jul 20, 2007)

thanks, now I feel more confident on getting my hand dirty ...thanks


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## Sweary (Aug 6, 2007)

Blimey! A complete eye-opener! I have been a bad lady, cleaning my chain with WD40. No more! 

As a total newbie to owning a "proper" bike I know I need to take it take it to bits and clean it properly on a regular basis but I haven't because I was so intimidated by the amount of open-heart bicycle surgery by kack-handed little ol' me which appeared to be involved. 

Not any more! Thanks to this excellent post. What with your original and the handy feedback from everyone else I am a lot more reassured not only about what I should do! Even better when I attempt it (soon) I will have all the right tools to hand before I start...

Many thanks.

Cheers

Sweary


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## f2f4 (Aug 10, 2007)

Very detailed post!

Thanks a ton, I learned a lot.


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## Rivergod (Aug 7, 2007)

Excellent guide, thanks very much.


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## EDDOH (Aug 16, 2007)

very nice write up...thanks :thumbsup:


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## wavz (May 30, 2007)

That was an amazing read!!! Thank you for your time and detail SteveUK.


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## rlith (Jul 18, 2007)

I would also like to point out (since I didn't see it though that doesn't mean I didn't miss it) that when removing parts from your bike, especially the crank area and brake discs and what have you, you should use a torque wrench to reinstall the component to the torque specs of the part. Some people may think they can gauge it, but a 20.00 torque wrench will ensure your parts are fitted properly and give them proper life.


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## H R Fatness (Oct 3, 2007)

Awesome, thanks Steve!!


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## Sprocketeer (Feb 22, 2004)

Absolutely write a book, and include your own photography. In fact, just send what you've got there to a book agent or publisher and see if their interested in having you write the whole book first because they'll guide you through the process and probably pay you some amount in advance. 

Virtually every book on bicycle maintainence I've ever picked up had horrible photography, where you really couldn't tell what the technician was doing--typically too close-up--but yours are very clear.


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Thanks very much Sprocketeer. The Basic Cleaning and Maintenance is currently being, well, cleaned and maintained, so at some point in the next week or so it will have been considerably revised and updated. There'll be more pictures, many of which will be linked to a larger version for even clearer viewing, and also more detail in the text.


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## rjdevo9mr (Nov 1, 2007)

this write up is fabulous!


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## eclane78 (Nov 18, 2007)

I actually enjoyed this. I am trying to make sure I get everything done right to maintain my bike as long as possible. Just bought my first bike on friday and it has been a pleasurable two days.


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

this is all great information for everbody. I just purchased the bike and on the second or third ride, I rode in some very extreme conditions with my last bike, crossed several deep streams and afterwords merely washed the bike with water. I witnessed my bike age one year overnight, all because I didn't maintain it properly after the ride. the bike did not shift as well, the brake pads dissolved during the ride. The water trapped in the calipers caused the pistons to fuse by electrolisis into the caliper body. 

I had to take the bike in the the shop twice to correct the brakes and get the shifting corrected. They did a complete overhaul, taking out all moving parts to clean and lube them. I hope I learned my lesson.:madman:


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## Five (Jan 2, 2008)

This guide is really useful for me, I'll definitely be coming back to it.


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## MTBgreatfalls (Jun 12, 2006)

outstanding post. This is really helpfull to thoose of us newer to the game of Mountain bikes.


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## dj_dejan (Nov 2, 2006)

Great work. This must've took some time Thanks for the effort.

P.S. "I could have gone into much more detail but felt that I needed to strike a balance of information and keep coverage simple." Are you kidding??? This is the most detailed bike maintenance guide I've ever seen!


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## Lamborghini (Jan 26, 2008)

thanks for taking the time to make that. It was very helpful:thumbsup:


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Overhaul done!! The new and improved Basic Cleaning and Maintenance Guide can be found by following this link.


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## zephyr11 (Nov 8, 2007)

thanks very much!
def useful...


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## Domster (May 17, 2007)

Wow, sweet guide. Definitely going to be used in a few weeks.


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## jdrogo (Mar 10, 2008)

Wow!...I read the whole thing...nice work!


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## KevinBicycle (Mar 20, 2008)

Great guide! Lots of useful information.

Here's a good tip: *Kerosene works great as a chain cleaner.*
I've been using it for years to clean motorcycle and bicycle chains.
Safe for all bicycle chains and all motorcycle standard roller, o-ring and x-ring chains.
Simply take the chain off of the bicycle, drop it in a container with kerosene, let it soak, swish it around a bit, take it out to inspect it, use a brush on it if needed for any stubborn build up, grab the air compressor hose and blast the chain dry before lubing and reinstalling on the bicycle.
Quick and easy
Chainsaw bar & chain oil or motorcycle standard roller chain spray foam works great on bicycle chains.


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## elchoopanebre (Oct 9, 2008)

Very well done. This is helpful.


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## Adam_waugh (Oct 11, 2008)

Thanks Dear, Good Job


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## Holdsy (Dec 27, 2008)

Great stuff, ......Steve....!!!!


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## theAdviserMe (Feb 6, 2009)

very informative i'd say.
just let me add this, for cleaning the engine externally, brush it with kerosene and wipe it dry with a clean rag.
Keep it up,more and more of us are learning from these tips


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

"_just let me add this, for cleaning the engine externally, brush it with kerosene and wipe it dry with a clean rag._"

The engine?


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## LeftyKyle (Feb 17, 2009)

Thanks for the info!


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## ZGOZZ (Jun 9, 2009)

Thank you for this thread, and this post. Great info and thank you for the time in posting this and the right up...


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## CruisingEagle90 (Sep 12, 2009)

Awesome info!


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## vanamees (Oct 10, 2009)

*Cleening home alone*

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=489077&stc=1&d=1255375105


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## ForrestCoors (Mar 9, 2010)

Just bought my GF Big Sur. Like every other bike I buy or find, I clean and tune, clean and tune! I will check out the link, as I'm sure there is something that will be learned.


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## fatboypup (Apr 1, 2010)

BlueTrain said:


> well, tires should be worn out before any type of "sun damage" gets to them. and armor all on your seat? er.. no.. methinks that would be a wee bit too slickery.


you seen the sun in Arizona?


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## vanox (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks again!


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## The Soleutator (Aug 3, 2010)

Good guide, but it should be noted that WD40 and other petro-based lubricants will break down and dissolve most plastics. Not sure if that's an issue here, since the guide suggests that as much of it be removed as possible when done using it, but just something to note.


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## Firepac (Sep 7, 2010)

Do you recommend using rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the bike chain and gears?


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

Firepac said:


> Do you recommend using rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the bike chain and gears?


No, I don't.


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## The Soleutator (Aug 3, 2010)

Firepac said:



> Do you recommend using rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the bike chain and gears?


I use it to wipe metal surfaces down. It's not a very effective degreaser, so I end up having to use a lot of it. It's also known to cause rust if left sitting there for too long, and can make plastic parts brittle if used excessively. I'd recommend tri-flow to clean the chain (lube it up, move it around, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe it off). Tri-flow is an effective degreaser, but also lubricates, making things pretty simple. There are plenty of other ways to clean the chain, it's just what I've found most effective. A lot of people soak their chains in kerosene. I would too, I just don't have any.


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## sbcalla (Oct 20, 2009)

Firepac said:


> Do you recommend using rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the bike chain and gears?


I believe I have seen people use one of these on road bike rims just before their race. I assume it is to get off all the grease and dirt so the crappy cx breaks will work a bit better.


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## DiscGolfDan (Oct 6, 2010)

*So heres a stupid newbie question?*

So I have been riding most of my life but I've never bought a new bike. I was wondering if I bought a new bike online would it come pre oiled/greased? Or would i have to do it myself?


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## Holdsy (Dec 27, 2008)

DiscGolfDan said:


> So I have been riding most of my life but I've never bought a new bike. I was wondering if I bought a new bike online would it come pre oiled/greased? Or would i have to do it myself?


Bikes would generally come from the manufacturer pre olied and greased but always a good idea to check, and apply some your self www.chain-l.com is one of the best chain oils on the market at present.'
:thumbsup:


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## timk125 (Jun 28, 2010)

My rear wheel doesn't click when I'm coasting and doesn't spin very freely...

Do I just need to clean my cassette and freewheel assembly?


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## bwronski (Jan 31, 2011)

About how often should cleaning be done?


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## Annadel72 (Feb 4, 2011)

Thanks alot Steve, now that you have provided such a great guide on how to clean/maint. a bike I have no excuse to not do it now.


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## aaabronco (Mar 15, 2011)

You know how some older bikes have those rubber covers over the fork shocks, is it safe to take those off without getting it clogged with dirt or mud?


----------



## jensen4300 (Jun 3, 2011)

*thanks*

thanks this is great!


----------



## Cobra Driver (Jun 2, 2011)

Wow! What a piece of work!!!

I just went shopping for "very important stuff" to keep my ride smooth and clean...Shhhhh hold on....yes it's work related dear.

Anyhow, thanx for all the info and the trouble you just got me into  

CD


----------



## darkace256 (Jun 6, 2011)

Great job on the maintenance guide,

I'm sure It will help many people including me.


----------



## honglee (Jun 3, 2011)

Very nice, Thank you for the article.


----------



## UMDmtnbkr (Apr 20, 2011)

Awesome guide...thanks man!


----------



## clark3554 (Jun 8, 2011)

nice tips. thanks man


----------



## Reef Diver (May 1, 2011)

Thank you!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## AScagsLife (May 25, 2011)

Thanks for the detailed guide! It is extremely helpful!


----------



## grimcow (Mar 28, 2011)

Nice


----------



## cslrider (Jun 18, 2011)

thanks!!!


----------



## Assassin1206 (Jun 19, 2011)

*sweeet*

This is awesome... these tips are very useful! Thanks!! :thumbsup:


----------



## TerikE (Jun 21, 2011)

This helped me a lot. Thanks.


----------



## Von551 (Jun 21, 2011)

thanks!


----------



## TreeKiller (Aug 29, 2007)

Awesome guide!!


----------



## themoller (Jun 24, 2011)

great info!


----------



## RJS5689 (Jun 27, 2011)

Great information in here!


----------



## bowyia (Nov 18, 2010)

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Koflach (Jul 1, 2011)

This thread has been a great resource for a newb like me. Thanks for all the advice.


----------



## btr1230 (Jul 4, 2011)

great stuff


----------



## dangerzone9k (Jul 6, 2011)

good read.


----------



## SouthernOak (Jul 10, 2011)

I really appreciate this information. I just bought a used bicycle off craigslist and it needs a good cleaning. I'm about to get started right now


----------



## interlude27 (Aug 18, 2008)

Thank you so much for this guide! I'm a relatively new rider, just got a 2011 Raleigh Talus 4.0, and I wanna keep it runnin smooooth . Thanks!


----------



## jbrown6583 (Jul 16, 2011)

Great article!


----------



## CampChef (Jul 12, 2011)

Thanks for the guide!


----------



## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

Thanks for the guide


----------



## JakeyJake (Jul 21, 2011)

Great guide, thanks.


----------



## Jerry4816 (Jul 25, 2011)

Very helpful - thanks


----------



## TMLGN (Jul 25, 2011)

Saved.


----------



## pope924 (Mar 16, 2011)

I know its been said over a hundred times already, but thanks for the info....awesome stuff....


----------



## Chicago Ryder (Apr 2, 2008)

Has anyone heard of Rock and Roll Gold chain cleaner and lube in one? Wondering how it's worked for them.


----------



## dougadesign (Jul 18, 2011)

be careful.


----------



## Fyrblade (Aug 6, 2011)

awesome job


----------



## Drop-EX (Aug 7, 2011)

very detailed - thank you


----------



## schoi604 (Jul 4, 2011)

thanks for the tips!


----------



## coykiam (Apr 8, 2006)

Thanks for the awesome write up!


----------



## boostinzx (Sep 9, 2008)

Great Article! Thank you!


----------



## Davidus (Aug 9, 2011)

I need this. thanks.


----------



## adam76 (Jul 11, 2011)

Great article, thanks!


----------



## ghforces (Jul 16, 2011)

Thank you a lot, it is very helpful for me


----------



## Rezn (Aug 21, 2011)

This guide is great, thank you!


----------



## dmans (Aug 22, 2011)

*Great guide............*

........... very detaled ans complete!

Thanks for postin it.


----------



## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

Ah thanks for the link!

finally the guy at the bike shop doesnt have to tell me over and over again, how to clean parts of the bike.. i felt bad after awhile


----------



## altisimo (May 20, 2011)

Great guide, Thanks


----------



## Peter Leo (Aug 23, 2011)

Thanks Steve. An excellent guide in detail.


----------



## djkelly368 (Aug 9, 2011)

Thanks for all the info! Keeping the chain as clean as possible and lubed properly helped me the most.


----------



## ankyle62 (Sep 1, 2011)

Good info


----------



## apfroggy0408 (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Dogerblu (Sep 7, 2011)

*Nice*

Great Info!


----------



## doownek (Aug 31, 2011)

good info.


----------



## lcmp (Aug 24, 2011)

Helpful guide as I am a bit of a disaster in the maintenance side of things...


----------



## TTigg (May 7, 2011)

Great stuff in here for sure - thanks !


----------



## Circusbike (Sep 7, 2011)

Awesome--thanks!


----------



## WOZN1AK (Sep 12, 2011)

Very detailed and helpful to a newb like me


----------



## jguard (Sep 13, 2011)

Very helpful.


----------



## mkb77 (Aug 26, 2011)

Definitely a good link to have!


----------



## annajayh (Sep 13, 2011)

Helpfull! Thank you!


----------



## nspctr1 (Sep 18, 2011)

Great article,

thx


----------



## Trekkml (Sep 26, 2011)

Was having some issues with my derailleur..This...Helped...So...Much!!! Awesome guide for those who wish to learn more about repair/maintnence and the overall functioning of their bike!


----------



## Likes2Bike (Sep 8, 2011)

Very helpful thank you.


----------



## Rugae (Sep 7, 2011)

awesome thread


----------



## Faralon (Oct 3, 2011)

Nice Detail, thanks for the guide.


----------



## jadencat (Sep 18, 2011)

Lot more info than I expected, much thanks


----------



## andres0540 (Sep 17, 2011)

Very nice intructions,
but i think the best tip for beginer like me is take it to the local shop if the bike is new until you feel confident in doing all these things


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

andres0540 said:


> Very nice intructions,
> but i think the best tip for beginer like me is take it to the local shop if the bike is new until you feel confident in doing all these things


A lot of this stuff is pretty hard to screw up. It might be better to try it first and keep the LBS as a backup plan.


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## sik_at (Jul 21, 2009)

s0ckeyeus is right, you have to screw things up really bad to break something. Just give it a try first.


----------



## Ste_Mc133 (Oct 12, 2011)

Coo men..thanks for this as a newbie its help..


----------



## creepin (Oct 13, 2011)

Priceless for me..... Such a noob and trying to take everything in!


----------



## jsims479 (Oct 18, 2011)

Thanks


----------



## maqilin (Oct 19, 2011)

could not see it, could not open it


----------



## Night Rider AZ (Nov 9, 2011)

awesom guide did not know there was soo much maintenance


----------



## Schirmer20 (Nov 15, 2011)

thanks alot guys


----------



## JantheMan (Nov 16, 2011)

Im new to biking and have found steves' guide very informative. I shall use your guide as my bible to mountain biking!! More POWER SteveUK!!!


----------



## Napalm1942 (Nov 19, 2011)

Thanks for the post


----------



## EZuphill (Nov 21, 2011)

*up keep*

Thanks for the info! Great Help!


----------



## notrandom (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks for the tips


----------



## CapaCapa (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks!


----------



## br5291 (Nov 29, 2011)

nice:thumbsup:


----------



## 1979chevy (Nov 30, 2011)

Thanks for this post. Its nice to have people out there to help others.


----------



## FroggerRacing (Nov 28, 2011)

Great post! Should help the bike last longer for sure!


----------



## omsk (Dec 9, 2011)

Definitely a good guide for beginners like me . Thanks for the sticky


----------



## DieTheVillain (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks for this guide!


----------



## alex5425alex (Dec 21, 2011)

What do you guys use to lube your drivetrain?


----------



## alex5425alex (Dec 21, 2011)

thanks that is one helpful guide


----------



## jmg085 (Dec 22, 2011)

this is great! i've been searching for a good way to clean my bike!


----------



## A&PShane (Dec 26, 2011)

What a great guide, very helpful!


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## keith_swist (Dec 27, 2011)

Wow, can't wait for my new bike to come in so I can get it dirty and then clean it.


----------



## LeahD (Dec 31, 2011)

Great Food for thought Guys, Sadly I am really time poor so the bike shop may still get the work!! But I do enjoy being a grease monkey on the odd occassion.


----------



## Clack (Jan 5, 2012)

Thanks for the guide. padding post count so I can post a thread.


----------



## jaydee1445 (Jan 5, 2012)

clack said:


> thanks for the guide. Padding post count so i can post a thread.


+1 lol:d


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## Jman0000 (Oct 7, 2011)

Great post, thanks. Got my new Kona Hei Hei 29 and want to take good care of it...


----------



## nmilsaps (Jan 9, 2012)

great! thanks!


----------



## wolfhawk73 (Dec 12, 2011)

Great post, thank you!!


----------



## rskopek (Jan 12, 2012)

Great info!


----------



## saltpot (Jan 17, 2012)

Thanks for the great article! I'm sure I'll get back to read it quite a few times before I'm totally familiar with the whole procedure 

From the guide:


> I would always refer beginners to the manufacturer's instructions when installing components. If you've bought something new, the instructions should be included.


Sound advice, as well  That's what my father always says related to every technical device: "Read the instructions first!" Doesn't matter whether I'm putting together a new bookshelf or programming the VCR


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## Rocks to fox (Sep 26, 2011)

There should be a link to this in every bike manual! 
very nice!


----------



## adnoh1924 (Jan 24, 2010)

*thank you*

Awesome post


----------



## starks_25 (Jan 16, 2012)

Thanks!!!


----------



## cyrus_nk (Jan 23, 2012)

Thank you!!! Thank you !!! Thank you!!! (i didn't copy/paste)


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## Conzoid (Jan 24, 2012)

sweet I needed this guide. very helpful


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## doc307 (Jan 4, 2012)

I never knew there was so much to taking care of a bike. Thanks.


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## ratherbmtbiking (Sep 16, 2008)

*Bike Protection*

Protect your Rig from Cable rub thru on frame & fork
and put a crankskin on crank to protect it as well
then GO RIDE!


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## timmy96815 (Jan 24, 2012)

thanks again, I just found this forum. So much stuff on here!


----------



## richardshore (Jan 26, 2012)

Great guide!


----------



## Jajm1213 (Sep 26, 2011)

Great read for anyone....


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## TXRR (Jan 14, 2012)

This will make a great start to understanding bike repair. I'm in the process of setting up my bike work shop.


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## jkernea (Jan 26, 2012)

Thanks OP! Awesome guide!


----------



## mso (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks - great reference


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## ncologerojr (Feb 4, 2012)

Very helpful. I've got some work to do...


----------



## Focus05 (Jan 30, 2012)

thanks


----------



## Adrianoo (Sep 29, 2011)

Excellent.
Thanks to all who put this together


----------



## chickcoria (Feb 8, 2012)

Great post!! Thanks!!


----------



## wparti00 (Feb 10, 2012)

Awesome. Thanks


----------



## jfoto757 (Jan 30, 2012)

thanks!


----------



## endless108 (Feb 12, 2012)

good tips!


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## tony48 (Feb 15, 2012)

Just wanted to give my appreciation for this great link. I just joined this site and as I get into mountain biking more and more this will be very helpful, thanks very much.


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## DLew (Feb 17, 2012)

Great resource, I especially like the info about WD40.


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## CasualNerd (Nov 5, 2010)

Thanks heaps, been looking for something like this for ages !


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## fvfvfv (Nov 15, 2010)

Thanks


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## one lung (Feb 8, 2012)

Very informative. Thank you.


----------



## HePE27 (Feb 20, 2012)

cool stuff thanks!


----------



## argin (Dec 26, 2011)

thanks for the tips


----------



## lov2bike01 (May 21, 2011)

Nicely done.


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## santiago_sf (Feb 24, 2012)

what an awsome post, just what i was looking for!


----------



## XC-Trail-Man24 (Feb 11, 2012)

Good article OP-useful stuff!


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## Ronsin909 (Feb 11, 2012)

Nice...


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## vylanous (Feb 28, 2012)

Cool! Very helpful to a guy who hasn't rode or much less adjusted a pair of brakes in a decade.


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## -Boat- (Feb 20, 2012)

Good info....Thanks.:thumbsup:


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## J-aec (Jan 30, 2011)

endless108 said:


> good tips!


+1 :thumbsup:


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## May23 (Mar 1, 2012)

Thanks for sharing! i really need it.


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## velveteer (Feb 28, 2012)

Very informative


----------



## Cazper37 (Mar 1, 2012)

Excellent info here, thanks!


----------



## rhysjenz (Mar 3, 2012)

Wow this could've saved me some $$ at the local bike shop...


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## bsfswisher (Sep 13, 2011)

Thank you!


----------



## thatonedude (Mar 4, 2012)

so many questions have been answered thanks alot


----------



## raider32assassin (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks for the link


----------



## Koin (Mar 7, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## mgdeftones (Mar 7, 2012)

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## TRaGiK (Feb 23, 2012)

Thanks


----------



## Blazing Hornet (Mar 8, 2012)

Wow, that is an awesome in depth guide. Thanks


----------



## HotJoint (Mar 11, 2012)

Damn, good info!


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## Rival (Feb 23, 2012)

thanks for the info!


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## JTF2 (Mar 17, 2012)

Very good info here. This will help me immensely.


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## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

top work for taking the time to collate all that info :thumbsup:


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## justdaman (Jan 1, 2012)

thank you for this! great job!


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

I think a guide with more basics and pictures might be better for beginners like me.
I found this one
Workshop: How To Clean And Lube Your Bike - BikeRadar


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## floresjc (Mar 18, 2012)

Thanks, much helpful info.


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## borntoscore97 (Mar 19, 2012)

*thanks*

thanks


----------



## Lucidor (Mar 16, 2012)

:thumbsup:


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## mamotchan (Mar 15, 2012)

wow... thnx a lot for this guide


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## 29ernb (Mar 20, 2012)

very good guide for cleaning and maintenance. clean and lubed my bike yesterday. made a difference in the drivetrain. also important to check all the fasteners. I noticed that my derailleur hanger bolt was lose. put new threadlock on it and retightened it.


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## jsunv (Mar 20, 2012)

very comprehensive and useful information, thanks for sharing!


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## rocketfoot (Mar 16, 2012)

*Guide*

Really helped!


----------



## eric1991 (Mar 17, 2012)

Thank you for this guide definitely going to come in handy


----------



## 36dbldz (Mar 23, 2012)

thx for post


----------



## mrpalaviccini (Mar 24, 2012)

*Awesome info!*

see title


----------



## iRide4fun (Mar 24, 2012)

A lot of helpful information. Have to sit down and give that a good read.


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## calialx1 (Mar 7, 2011)

this has helped a ton, thanks!


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## drtoph (Mar 19, 2012)

Great guide. Just did my first thorough clean of my bike after reading this a couple of times. Also really appreciate the V8 pedal rebuild as these are the pedals that i have!


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## mustangGT (Apr 1, 2012)

does anyone use car spray wax?


----------



## Max Q (May 24, 2011)

Good info. Thanks!


----------



## TwigJumper (Mar 14, 2012)

Cool beans!


----------



## FNG_Rider (Apr 4, 2012)

*definately using this*

Begin a new rider, thanks for a good guide to use!


----------



## jojokaizer (Apr 4, 2012)

thanks.


----------



## corivus (Mar 13, 2012)

Used this guide to do my first clean down of my kona after putting it together and it was really helpful def know a bit more about my bike and its assembly now!


----------



## tcc13 (Mar 25, 2012)

Thank you for this.

Being a noob at MTB riding, have a road bike I used to ride a lot when I was younger, cleaning it was not a priority. Now with my "new" MTB I want to keep it as new as possible


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## OutdoorRoss (Apr 6, 2012)

Thanks for this posting! I was just browsing this forum to learn how to clean my Hoo Koo E Koo and came across this post and it is a wealth of information!


----------



## bobinitacnh (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks, Great Info


----------



## purplewallz (Apr 8, 2012)

thanks


----------



## sevoma (Apr 8, 2012)

Sweet guide bro! Thanks


----------



## purplewallz (Apr 8, 2012)

thanks


----------



## apo (Apr 9, 2012)

already coming in handy, thanks!


----------



## Durzil (Apr 5, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## ctt1wbw (Mar 31, 2012)

Make this whole thing a PDF file for download? Possible? :thumbsup:


----------



## TrailBlazr (Apr 12, 2012)

Good info. thanks.


----------



## jblunt791 (Apr 14, 2012)

thanks


----------



## stol2004 (Apr 16, 2012)

very good


----------



## inonutin (Mar 29, 2012)

Thanks for the info, it would be helpful for my new bike.


----------



## hcr32 (Apr 16, 2012)

WOW, lots of info! Thanks


----------



## Hagerman11 (Apr 7, 2012)

Good stuff, thanks.


----------



## w201 (Apr 18, 2012)

Nice guide


----------



## Gregdpw (Apr 16, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## clauritzen (Apr 19, 2012)

Thanks


----------



## ronigj (Apr 20, 2012)

thanks for the guide! more power!


----------



## lostandfound (Apr 20, 2012)

thanks for these stickies! great places to get started. kudos' to the Mod's here. 28hrs into this site... very imporessed.


----------



## rdub0217 (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks for the great info!


----------



## blankoii (Mar 21, 2012)

great post! Saves me from the trouble to search for bike maintenance online.


----------



## lanetxgp1 (Apr 22, 2012)

Will be putting this to work.


----------



## lockmart (Apr 23, 2012)

Thanks for the info. As a noob it's helpful.


----------



## pickles1107 (Apr 21, 2012)

Good info, but most of us are not going to do this each time back from the trails. So what does everyone do in the interim? Is a spray down with a hose appropriate to get the mud off?


----------



## puls4521 (Apr 26, 2012)

Great post! This is an awesome how to guide for a new rider like myself!


----------



## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Really good guide. I only became more careful with what cleaning agents I use, after getting some more refined experience washing my car and recalling some aircraft cleaning experience.

There are some motorcycle wash solutions that don't harm waxes, clear coats, greases, lubes, and don't harden/embrittle surfaces like some other cleaning solutions, but they're a bit expensive. Just straight up water and some good brushes and some elbow grease for spot cleaning is the simplest route and is just as effective.

Stuff I used in the past which I've ceased using:
Dish soap = unfriendly degreasing action (also strips off protective coatings as well)
Simple green = unfriendly to materials, hardening/embrittling them; also unfriendly degreasing action
Other degreasers = used properly, such as for small parts cleaning, it's fine, but it's simply too expensive and requires too much prep and careful handling to use effectively

I'm using WD-40 for spot cleaning sticky greasy stuff, mainly my drivetrain. It also helps shine up polished metal really well, particularly titanium. I'm using Pledge furniture spray to keep the dust off clear coated surfaces, spraying it onto a cloth and applying it. I bought a bunch of cheap microfiber towels from Meritline that I use to finish the bike and do the real detailed cleaning.

Takes about 10-20 minutes from a light hose down to really clean the bike. I pull my stand out to the drive way, put the bike in it, and take off the wheels to start. I grab my 20 gal bucket (under $5 from any hardware store) with all my brushes and towels in it and set it near the bike. I use a garden hose with a pistol-grip head to make a wide spray from a good distance, mainly just to get everything wet (wider and lighter than a shower). I hit the dirty spots with a brush to loosen the dirt and work the water through the caked on crud. I then lightly shower it again with the hose to rinse and use 3 or 4 of the microfiber towels to dry it and to wipe all the crud off that the rinse missed; this drying step is the most time consuming, but it ensures everything is clean and also acts as a visual inspection of the bike for cracks and such. I then hit the wheels, using the same process. I then hit the drive train with a smaller drivetrain-specfic brush and a little WD40 to loosen the greasy crud, and a paper towel to wipe it up. I finish by taking a clean cloth or paper towel and buffing the bare/anodized metal surfaces with WD-40 and another cloth for buffing the powder or clear coated surfaces with pledge furniture spray, to help protect it. Seems to work as well as silicone spray/polish, for far cheaper, and much easier/safer to apply (bad news if you spray silicone stuff on something like braking tracks and pads).

Doing it this way, I know my lubricants are still intact, I'm not harming anything on my bike, and basically everything lasts longer while looking better. Nothing really beats elbow grease when caring for your bike. Solutions that you apply to a towel or brush head first and then are applied to your bike parts are the best way to clean without unintentionally harming other bike parts. I tend to time my bike washes to coincide with whenever I need to lube my chain, though not every time I lube my chain. I can go months between cleanings, depending on the weather and whether I do some water crossings or ride through damp areas.

Doing it the lazy way for quick 5-10 minute washes, with focused or high pressure water spray, a soapy/cleaner/degreaser solution, and no significant time spent on drying (ex. bouncing your bike or sprinting on the road in front of your home) can leave your bike in a state worse off than if you didn't wash it at all. Your bike parts won't last as long and will show signs of needing to be relubed/overhauled much sooner. You might see a few pro bikes getting washed this way, but also watch if those same bikes suffer from mechanical faults.


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## yulp333 (Apr 26, 2012)

great tips!


----------



## ChewynMe (Apr 29, 2012)

*Great Tips*

These are great tips for those who have purchased decent bike recently and want to know the best way to clean them!:thumbsup:


----------



## SalakauEx-Convict (Apr 29, 2012)

Hey guys, i'm new to mountain biking and i just want to ask, can my Crank: Shimano Octalink alloy(44x32x22T), BB: Shimano BB ; be converted into a single speed crank? Thnx


----------



## celica90 (May 2, 2012)

Great information thanks!


----------



## excaliber (May 1, 2012)

Great post!! Thanks for the info.


----------



## Gravatrax (May 3, 2012)

Good info thanks


----------



## Trooperuss (Jul 9, 2007)

Great guide, this will help me out a lot thanks.


----------



## Ty's Anthem (May 4, 2012)

*LBS Rules*

Just bought a couple of used bikes---LBS has been awsome taking care of me even tho i did not buy there. Big UPS!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected] (May 5, 2012)

thanks for the info


----------



## Andra2000 (May 1, 2012)

Thanks for this nice shares.


----------



## Andra2000 (May 1, 2012)

thanks for the share :thumbsup:


----------



## ryencool (Apr 20, 2012)

awesome info thanks


----------



## grizzlypaugh (May 17, 2012)

I was looking for a guide in cleaning thanks


----------



## samguan (May 19, 2012)

nice post


----------



## sirgringo (May 20, 2012)

Good info, thanks!


----------



## watchman323 (May 3, 2012)

Nice post


----------



## Dan K. Farmer (May 13, 2012)

Nice guide Steve, thanks for posting this up. Newly back into biking and need to learn to do my own maintenance as I live too far from any LBS. This will help alot


----------



## vincavinz (May 12, 2012)

Great info!


----------



## ebrownw2 (May 23, 2012)

Roger that. All of that.


----------



## Cocktail (May 28, 2012)

Liked the wd40 information


----------



## RoJo71 (May 27, 2012)

Wow thank you for the list!!


----------



## oned (Mar 28, 2011)

Nice detailed guides, thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## dannynoonan (Jul 4, 2011)

This is great. Thanks.


----------



## Jennz011 (Jun 1, 2012)

Thank you very much for the tip. This is exactly my concern the other day. Now my problem is answered.


----------



## rockNnachos (Jun 26, 2010)

After riding out in the wild I use dawn dish soap (soap designed to cut oils) to wash the bike off. The demon ivy venom (poison ivy/oak, etc oils) can sit on your bike for a loooong time, waiting for you to touch it, sending your life into three weeks of itchy, oozing hell! :madmax:


----------



## RustyLeaf (Jun 3, 2012)

Thanks


----------



## Jennz011 (Jun 1, 2012)

rockNnachos said:


> After riding out in the wild I use dawn dish soap (soap designed to cut oils) to wash the bike off. The demon ivy venom (poison ivy/oak, etc oils) can sit on your bike for a loooong time, waiting for you to touch it, sending your life into three weeks of itchy, oozing hell! :madmax:


:eekster:

Thanks!:thumbsup:


----------



## Akmike123 (Jun 4, 2012)

Great post, super helpful


----------



## DanZo337 (Jun 4, 2012)

PDF please


----------



## shatooi (Jun 4, 2012)

Great guide!


----------



## drwpc97 (Aug 22, 2011)

*don't let mud get tangled up in the gears, or disk brakes.*


----------



## erikrichter (May 23, 2012)

Just the thing I've been searching for! Thanks!


----------



## astronautrob (Jun 5, 2012)

Wow great info for a noob


----------



## manmythlegend (May 21, 2012)

Very nice and helpful.


----------



## l_mh_er (Jun 8, 2012)

hey! i'm a new biker. just want to know if cable end cap like "jagwire" is really needed for bike cables. thanks


----------



## oglop (Jun 8, 2012)

Nice job!


----------



## redheddedwonder (Jun 10, 2012)

can a simple cleaning fix a not functioning derailer?


----------



## EQWoody (Jun 11, 2012)

Very cool, Helpful on what kind of cleaners to use.


----------



## EQWoody (Jun 11, 2012)

Also found places I needed to clean that I didnt know about.


----------



## Jennz011 (Jun 1, 2012)

If I have the time I'll clean my bike following your guide!


----------



## BS85 (Jun 12, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## Jssheptin (Jun 12, 2012)

Very helpful, thanks


----------



## MarsMan89 (Jun 12, 2012)

Will definately be reffering to this often, Thanks!


----------



## mundane (Jun 10, 2012)

tyvm! very helpful!


----------



## dooblavey (Jun 12, 2012)

Very helpful indeed!


----------



## giant_revel_1_rider (Jun 13, 2012)

thanks, its come in handy


----------



## KungPow (Jun 14, 2012)

bookmarked. Thanksh


----------



## dirtyokie (Jun 14, 2012)

guess its time i start using some of that info... thanks


----------



## Stive (Jun 14, 2012)

Thanks, Helpful


----------



## Anyapot8 (May 26, 2012)

i'll definitely keep this in mind! tnx


----------



## CharlyC (Jun 18, 2006)

Ha! Totally!


----------



## CharlyC (Jun 18, 2006)

Thanks! This is great!


----------



## CharlyC (Jun 18, 2006)

Agreed.


----------



## desert-rat (Jun 12, 2012)

Cool 411. Great read. Thanks.


----------



## Rustyy117 (May 29, 2012)

ideal for noobs like me haha.


----------



## Metol (May 9, 2012)

Thanks. I've been religiously following some of the tips.


----------



## tgang50 (Jun 21, 2012)

nice guide


----------



## BigGK (Jun 22, 2012)

thanks, great post!


----------



## mattymcp (May 25, 2011)

Nice guide, thanks!


----------



## mark1165 (Jun 25, 2012)

good


----------



## mark1165 (Jun 25, 2012)

nice


----------



## mark1165 (Jun 25, 2012)

great


----------



## mark1165 (Jun 25, 2012)

mint


----------



## wake2dirt (Jul 22, 2008)

Great information...


----------



## JNR0790 (Jun 23, 2012)

thanks for the advice


----------



## Captain Bucktooth (Jun 4, 2012)

Thanks for taking the time to outline this. Super appreciated!


----------



## BIGO181979 (Jun 26, 2012)

^^^^ Agreed, so nie to not have to sort through 20 non related posts! Very nice write up!


----------



## aerodreamer (Jun 26, 2012)

good info. thanks! I guess its better to know this BEFORE buying a bike. 
looking to pick up a new one tomorrow


----------



## cadiburns (Jun 27, 2012)

Great guide.


----------



## cadiburns (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks.


----------



## Ahil (Apr 6, 2012)

^same


----------



## MToffroad (Jun 27, 2012)

Great help


----------



## whatasport (Jan 14, 2012)

Lots of useful info. Thanks.


----------



## Lateralus1082 (Jun 28, 2012)

Thanks a lot


----------



## jdstrd (Jun 28, 2012)

thanx for the info


----------



## Adam2 (Jun 30, 2012)

Will defo need this


----------



## moses5488 (Jul 2, 2012)

Thanks, wish I knew about this last year when I started riding.


----------



## fatboy1 (Jun 26, 2012)

Great info


----------



## solidfish (Jul 1, 2012)

thanks!


----------



## redlad (Jul 6, 2012)

ohhh, I'm all over this. Thank you for taking the time to put it out there


----------



## dynamodayak (Jul 6, 2012)

This is great for a newbie like me. Thanks a lot.


----------



## Luclin999 (Jul 9, 2012)

Nice guide. Should help me a lot later this summer.


----------



## sujianhua (Jul 9, 2012)

Thank you


----------



## calum73 (Jun 22, 2012)

Superb, I've been looking for a comprehensive guide for a while.


----------



## Dcmkx2000 (Jul 8, 2012)

I care just as much about keeping my bike clean as I do its performance


----------



## SantaAna12 (Mar 25, 2012)

Going to be referring back to this one....thanks.


----------



## Dr. Who? (Jul 13, 2012)

Awesome . Thank ye, thank ye!


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Wow, this really helps. Thanks for posting.


----------



## wernst (Jul 10, 2012)

Thanks.

-Warr


----------



## VegasRanger (Jul 14, 2012)

Great guide !!!


----------



## ylrus (Jul 7, 2012)

+1 Thanks!


----------



## CrazyCroat (Jul 15, 2012)

nice


----------



## JoyRide_21 (Jul 14, 2012)

Thanks for the guide!


----------



## sammark2 (Jul 18, 2012)

I got a new mountain bike. thank you for the useful info man. this will help me a lot.


----------



## K.Rawson (Jul 19, 2012)

thanks for the guide, well done.


----------



## ShadowHash (Jul 20, 2012)

I clean my bike once a month but nice guide!


----------



## Fishfinder (Jul 21, 2012)

Good stuff. Glad I read tjis


----------



## ONguard1992 (Jul 21, 2012)

thanks...i clean mine after any "gritty" substance ride


----------



## Rcheinz57 (Jul 16, 2012)

*wd 40*

So I guess wd 40 is out of the question


----------



## diesel5d (May 29, 2011)

what??? no wd40 on chains??? my dad is going to hear it from me for jacking up my rides back in the day! good stuff, thanks for the info


----------



## JHG312 (Jul 16, 2012)

Great stuff


----------



## br0m (Jul 15, 2012)

thanks


----------



## jnorkol (Jul 22, 2012)

*mtb guide*

great mtb maintenance guide !


----------



## Danny523 (Jul 21, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## MattyJ568 (Jul 25, 2012)

great info!


----------



## ctimbs (Jul 26, 2012)

Holy moly that is a lot of info. Thanks though. Guess using WD40 to stop my brakes from squealing is out of the question. ;-)


----------



## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

ctimbs said:


> Holy moly that is a lot of info. Thanks though. Guess using WD40 to stop my brakes from squealing is out of the question. ;-)


People have been known to spray their pistons with various things to fix brake squeal, including LocTite (forget which formula, do they have a brake cleaner?). They claim it works too. :yikes:


----------



## Vettevert (Jul 15, 2012)

Thank you for the linkage...staying away from wd 40


----------



## Left-ear (Jul 26, 2012)

This was very helpful!


----------



## nail in hand (Jul 15, 2012)

thanks for the link!


----------



## dubbaduba (Jul 23, 2012)

Very useful. I'm not usually a hands on type of guy but this will surely help.


----------



## progfan1 (Jul 29, 2012)

This is most helpful. I wish I had known more of this stuff early on.


----------



## hydrolycier (Nov 25, 2010)

Adding this to my favorites!


----------



## SSV3NOM316 (Jul 30, 2012)

Great guide, bookmarked!

Thanks!


----------



## mzs6 (Jul 27, 2012)

Thanks!


----------



## Burf (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks. Great info here.


----------



## Watchman610 (Aug 5, 2012)

Very helpful guide.
Thanks.


----------



## creeseph (Apr 28, 2010)

Awesome guide, thank you. Also, a PDF is a great idea.


----------



## col123 (Aug 6, 2012)

Great advice re V8's gonna give that a go


----------



## romeslipslide (Nov 11, 2011)

outstanding. Just what i've been looking for. Thanks


----------



## Grantmo7 (Aug 6, 2012)

Great guide, just cleaned both my bikes tonight, although never thought to check all the bolts were tight or what condition the bearings are in, will have to go back and do a quick inspection tomorrow.


----------



## MarSizzle (Aug 9, 2012)

Great Advice. Thanks so much


----------



## IrideBikes801 (Aug 10, 2012)

ty for the info!


----------



## annandael (Aug 12, 2012)

Very informative! Thank you, know that is probably old (the multiple thanks)


----------



## maxnik (Aug 11, 2012)

Thank you!


----------



## m4rtini (Aug 13, 2012)

Very nice tutorial. Tks 4 share.


----------



## rockinsurfstar (Aug 13, 2012)

Nice bro!


----------



## Hitmanbob (Apr 8, 2012)

Very thorough, I like that. Good job


----------



## Eyeshield25 (Aug 14, 2012)

Interesting, thanks!


----------



## MuchooSmoocho (Aug 17, 2012)

wow, lots of good stuff. thanks1


----------



## McCrea (Aug 17, 2012)

nice!


----------



## ra-man44 (Jul 4, 2012)

Great guide, answers a lot of the questions I had. Thank you!


----------



## michael lambert (Aug 18, 2012)

Great information, answered a lot of the questions i was going to ask


----------



## GoatHornz (Jul 20, 2012)

great guide for beginners, thanks!


----------



## Blue-Destiny (Aug 19, 2012)

Very detailed guide there, thanks for sharing 
Will be referencing it for maintenance in future.


----------



## JuliusDarius (Aug 20, 2012)

Awesome work !


----------



## NickFL (Aug 21, 2012)

Great thread for starting out.


----------



## hhhava (Aug 22, 2012)

Thank you, very helpful.


----------



## JKoenig1980 (Aug 23, 2012)

please


----------



## JKoenig1980 (Aug 23, 2012)

let


----------



## JKoenig1980 (Aug 23, 2012)

me post


----------



## JKoenig1980 (Aug 23, 2012)

a new


----------



## JKoenig1980 (Aug 23, 2012)

topic. nice OP BTW


----------



## Xcisok (Jul 12, 2011)

JKoenig1980 said:


> me post


You can go to the test area to get your post count up :thumbsup:


----------



## Gringosuave (Aug 21, 2012)

This was awesome me, thanks for tAking the time.


----------



## 79ford (Aug 25, 2012)

Very helpful post, thank you!


----------



## zskf1 (Aug 27, 2012)

very nice article. thanks a lot


----------



## BLAMM0 (Aug 23, 2012)

thanks, useful information.


----------



## Iron Horse 12 (Aug 28, 2012)

Great info


----------



## Rooster86 (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for all the good info!!!


----------



## casjr808 (Aug 2, 2012)

cool...


----------



## wrfreeman (Aug 30, 2012)

Thanks for the great guide!


----------



## kylesmith025 (Aug 30, 2012)

I really hate cleaning chains. specially when i am just get back off the road.

Thanks for the link!


----------



## CHIEF500 (Aug 30, 2012)

Thank you for the very valuable information. As a new rider finding it to be as addicting as running used to be for me the info you provide is helping me understand the questions I've had.
Looking forward to completing the reading now that I have a reference to help me through maintaining my bike..


----------



## kylesmith025 (Aug 30, 2012)

Where is the attachment?


----------



## CHIEF500 (Aug 30, 2012)

kylesmith025 said:


> Where is the attachment?


Kyle go to the first post in this thread. In the writing of the post there is " this link"...click on that it'll take you to the attachment.


----------



## kylesmith025 (Aug 30, 2012)

Sorry my mistake. I thought Joan454 was suppose to share photos. He was referring to the "this link"


----------



## 996freak (Feb 21, 2010)

A must for every rider is a park tool chain cleaner


----------



## Jerz_subbie (Sep 1, 2012)

Very informative for a newb like myself. Thanks


----------



## Cyclin Dan (Sep 1, 2012)

Thanks for doing this. I'm a roadie that does all my own wrenching, and just got my first MTB. Very helpful.


----------



## doctadocta (Sep 4, 2012)

Wicked, will use when my bike arrives!


----------



## Methodical (Jul 14, 2012)

996freak said:


> A must for every rider is a park tool chain cleaner


Most definitely a must have. Another good to have tool is a work stand, but as an alternative you can use an Inexpensive Bike Hook from Lowes - mount hook someone where you can work on the bike.


----------



## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

Great guide thanks for taking the time to write it!


----------



## Rabbit7 (Sep 5, 2012)

Im so glad i found this forum . Thanks


----------



## nurbos (Aug 3, 2011)

This is definitely the 5th post thread 
good info!


----------



## LarryWallwart (Sep 5, 2012)

very good info, thanks


----------



## MtnMauler (Sep 6, 2012)

That was a good rear for some good info. Thanks


----------



## HNR (Sep 7, 2012)

Awesome.


----------



## Kraz (Jun 20, 2012)

Very helpful.


----------



## pupkin (Sep 10, 2012)

sweet


----------



## ritchiehulse (Sep 12, 2012)

lots of info thanks


----------



## ritchiehulse (Sep 12, 2012)

lots of info thanks:thumbsup:


----------



## redfox1939 (Sep 16, 2012)

Proper climbing wall and equipment maintenance and management assures the safety of climbers and durability of both your wall and equipment. Risk management and preventative maintenance training is key to these aspects of climbing wall operations.Thanks for sharing this article.It was very useful.
_______________________

West Fork Trail l Sedona Arizona


----------



## friedhouse (Sep 13, 2012)

great work.


----------



## aznlegendzx (Sep 19, 2012)

Thanks for the guide


----------



## Jbravo44 (Sep 20, 2012)

are most of these bearing repack-able or sealed designs?


----------



## GeauxLSUtigers7 (Sep 9, 2011)

read


----------



## MIOM (Sep 24, 2012)

Super helpful!


----------



## scaggnetti (Sep 24, 2012)

*Great Info*

Thanks for posting this!!


----------



## fadecomic (Aug 3, 2012)

Just what I was looking for. Very useful.


----------



## roadiohead (Sep 25, 2012)

Just what I was looking for. Thanks man.


----------



## ckc527 (Sep 23, 2012)

Thx great info


----------



## cuenut (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks. This information will come in handy. Just bought 5 bikes in the last 3 weeks.


----------



## KOL (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks. This is awesome.


----------



## b36one (Sep 28, 2012)

Really helpful info, thanks for the awesome post


----------



## TreFree (Oct 1, 2012)

Thanks for the info!


----------



## brandoc0mmand0 (Oct 1, 2012)

Great info.

Thanks!


----------



## aquito (Oct 1, 2012)

Great info now time to go clean my bike


----------



## flapane (Oct 2, 2012)

thanks a lot for the precious guide


----------



## ahrice (Apr 26, 2012)

This was very helpful


----------



## Trek3900 (Oct 3, 2012)

thanks for the Info..


----------



## egypticus (Oct 6, 2012)

will come in handy


----------



## Psychotext (Sep 21, 2012)

Thanks. Always looking for the right way do things!


----------



## SummitSurfer (Oct 1, 2012)

Great feedback...thanks!


----------



## Mongooserider (Oct 8, 2012)

All that i now is you can wash it anywhere but dont oil the disc brakes. Basics:nono:


----------



## Bludshroom (Oct 6, 2012)

do you all clean your bike everywhere after riding?


----------



## AREK28 (Oct 11, 2012)

Fantastic guide for a beginner... will definitely add to my favorite tab

Thanks!


----------



## AD22 (Aug 22, 2012)

So here's the skinny ...

I got home from work early yesterday, skies were clear, mid-60s, figured I'd go out and grab 10-12 miles on my 1+ month old Trek 820 before the wife and kids got home.

About 5 1/2 miles in, my <expletive> chainring cover (I think that's what it's called) popped off. It's hard plastic, and there seems to be 3 tabs that should hold it onto the crankset (again, might not be the right term), but 2 of them had snapped off somehow. Coincidentally, I took it to my local bike shop the day before to take advantage of the (belated) free 30-day tune up ... maybe the guy inadvertently mucked it up somehow. So here I am with this round plastic perforated disc thing-a-ma-bob dangling next to the pedal as I'm riding. A-nnoy-ing. The largest "hole" - part of the molded design - was too small to just slide off and over the pedal, and I couldn't (didn't want to) break it off.

Think it's an important piece, or is it just cosmetic and can I do without it?


----------



## Maged (Oct 14, 2012)

nice job


----------



## Maged (Oct 14, 2012)

very helpful


----------



## Vole (Feb 21, 2012)

AD22 said:


> So here's the skinny ...
> 
> I got home from work early yesterday, skies were clear, mid-60s, figured I'd go out and grab 10-12 miles on my 1+ month old Trek 820 before the wife and kids got home.
> 
> ...


Hey,

Chainring cover is not really an important part of the bike. It basically keeps your trousers away from the dirty chain and outer part of the chainring which is also usually dirty. If you have shorts on, than it doesn`t effect you. You easily remove it. A picture would be great how it looks now.


----------



## SummitSurfer (Oct 1, 2012)

Get that gay chain ring cover off there and get yourself a cool and hip pant leg strap for riding with pants. Lots of the cool companies make them, sometimes give them away, and the have reflective material and even utilize recycled bike tires etc!


----------



## BRWhelan (Oct 16, 2012)

Nice how-to doc!


----------



## Dhbiker14 (Oct 17, 2012)

Thanks.


----------



## Fergus Kelso (Jun 17, 2012)

good job. very informative


----------



## Scotsman309 (Oct 12, 2012)

Really helped me out!


----------



## Huggywuggybear (Oct 18, 2012)

Very helpful. Thank you


----------



## japaddler (Oct 20, 2012)

Thanks for putting this one together!


----------



## NolesFan99 (Oct 22, 2012)

thanks for this


----------



## Thirdeye270 (Oct 23, 2012)

Cool, thanks for the tips


----------



## Mr._S (Oct 21, 2012)

slamin, thanks


----------



## wanna_ride? (Oct 24, 2012)

I clean my bike after every "real" ride. If I'm just cruising the street/neighborhoods I don't.


----------



## ElDuderino2412 (Oct 24, 2012)

good thread very informative


----------



## ThrillSeeker2 (Oct 24, 2012)

Very informative


----------



## everything_was_taken (Oct 25, 2012)

Very helpful to a new rider, thanks!


----------



## Syb (Oct 23, 2012)

Informative is an understatement. This guide is very much appreciated by this noob.


----------



## jimlee (Aug 30, 2012)

*very helpful thread*

very helpful thread for us beginners - i printed it off for the reference book.

thanks, jim.


----------



## mmacken (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks for the links SteveUK.

A very good guide to say the least!


----------



## paladin5469 (Nov 3, 2012)

This is just what I was looking for. Great primer.


----------



## Refried Noodle (Nov 5, 2012)

Awesome stuff, thanks for the rundown.


----------



## madloo08 (Nov 9, 2012)

hi i have tektro draco brakes on giant revel 1..can any1 help me the front disc makes a slight grinding noise when it turns how do i fix this??...


----------



## Welric (Nov 10, 2012)

great thanks!


----------



## Bikingnewbie (Nov 11, 2012)

This is really great! So much information I had no clue about. I must admit to having never maintained my bikes before. I will definitely be referencing this again and again. Thank you for the invaluable links!


----------



## madloo08 (Nov 9, 2012)

anyone give me a newbie guide to adjusting my hydrolic brakes tighten,loosen etc


----------



## TomasW (Nov 13, 2012)

Great Thanks


----------



## hector j castro (Nov 15, 2012)

thank you very helpfull


----------



## obenchain1 (Nov 18, 2012)

Being new into mtb this really helps understand a little better on what to do. Thanks


----------



## nini101 (Nov 25, 2012)

Thanks for this wonderful guide


----------



## Mohammedqur (Jun 7, 2012)

This guide is great, thanks a lot


----------



## ajpx9 (Nov 26, 2012)

should have read this first!


----------



## Paco1driver09 (May 3, 2010)

HelloI wash my bike every 3 outputs, do not use the pressure washerimportantalways cleanse the chain and lasts much longer is


----------



## BudBundy (Nov 6, 2012)

Very impressively detailed. Thank you so much!


----------



## Cycle Logical (Apr 16, 2009)

Just posting to post so I can start a new thread...sorry for the inconvenience!


----------



## Mousey (Aug 25, 2012)

madloo08 said:


> hi i have tektro draco brakes on giant revel 1..can any1 help me the front disc makes a slight grinding noise when it turns how do i fix this??...


It means one or both of the pads are dragging on the disk.
get it where you can look thru the disc brake
make sure the moveable pad has clearance when relaxed
make sure the adjustable pad has clearance
about the thickness of a credit card should do it


----------



## Cobak04 (Dec 16, 2012)

Great guide, thanks


----------



## rjjackson36426 (Dec 17, 2012)

*Thanks*

Very helpful thanks


----------



## Johanneson (May 24, 2012)

Terrific, thanks


----------



## Constantinos (Dec 25, 2012)

Very nice


----------



## Unkown (Dec 25, 2012)

Great guide


----------



## ZeroSkillet (Dec 22, 2012)

Thanks, awesome thread


----------



## rontsse (Dec 27, 2012)

I didn't even know that there is so much work to do.


----------



## dpicare26 (Dec 27, 2012)

this must be the place for Newb's like me to post stupid things like "nice post"! so they can get their numbers up to make a meaningful post!!


----------



## nashwillis (Dec 27, 2012)

I need to start maintaining my bike better, very helpful


----------



## dieselpowered (Dec 27, 2012)

This will be an excellent for a noob like myself!


----------



## mtorres92 (Dec 30, 2012)

great guide really helped me alot


----------



## A7X88 (Dec 31, 2012)

Thanks for the guide - some useful tips


----------



## C-Kryt (Jan 2, 2013)

Appreciate all the good info!


----------



## gthomp0622 (Dec 24, 2012)

Very helpful thanks


----------



## Dnek (May 26, 2009)

Sweet, big help.


----------



## s.reynolds (Jan 8, 2013)

Such a big help for me. I am used to cleaning cars so its a little different


----------



## Zsimmons (Jan 15, 2013)

Very helpful Thanks!


----------



## DrWild (Jan 15, 2013)

*Thank you*

Thank you so much! As a newcomer to mountain biking this information is invaluable. Very well written and accessible.


----------



## BaggedMK4 (Jan 20, 2013)

Extremely impressive!


----------



## SpaceCraft (Jan 25, 2013)

Huge help to clueless people like me!


----------



## Jake Foz (Jan 26, 2013)

Good thing i read this before i washed my bike with peanut butter!


----------



## Muadib (Jan 27, 2013)

very helpful - learning new stuff everyday


----------



## sub7even (Jan 28, 2013)

gaining experience everyday.. thumb up!!


----------



## sub7even (Jan 28, 2013)

really helps me before going on the road... thank in advance!!


----------



## coxinio (Feb 4, 2013)

Thanks for this I have a rear Derailleur to adjust so extremely useful.


----------



## GradedOnACurve (Feb 15, 2013)

+1 Great info!


----------



## squeak12 (Mar 12, 2012)

Good Stuff


----------



## AJWeber-87 (Feb 19, 2013)

Perfect thanks for the thread!


----------



## DimGR (Feb 16, 2013)

thanks for this


----------



## Snypr18 (Feb 21, 2013)

Thanks for the info.


----------



## dlooneyone (Mar 20, 2012)

thanks for the tip


----------



## barneyhanway (Jan 30, 2013)

Quickie, I know this is an old thread.
I sprayed my bike with Inox (CRC type thing) BEFORE reading this excellent guide.
Back disc rotor cleaned up great with isopropyl, front still either makes noise or slides with an obvious "ticking". 
Is there something I can do to clean the pads or should I chuck em and get some new ones?


----------



## Mavr0 (Feb 23, 2013)

Person is allways learning...nice post


----------



## bhull4 (Feb 20, 2013)

Good Stuff


----------



## pzawadzki (Jan 22, 2013)

Tks for the guide!!!


----------



## dryflyelk (Mar 5, 2013)

Very useful...thx!


----------



## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Thanks!


----------



## wink23 (Mar 13, 2013)

maintenance is very important..


----------



## zz29er (Apr 7, 2013)

awesome guide ! a thousand "thank you"s


----------



## synodbio (Mar 21, 2013)

Appealing information you have provided. It gained me more knowledge and idea. Please keep up the good because i like the way you are writing. Thanks!


----------



## rshalit (Oct 27, 2006)

zzz


----------



## Island20v (Apr 22, 2013)

Good info in there, thanks.


----------



## Artmor79 (Aug 27, 2013)

great info, i need to buy me some tools and repack both hubs with new grease.


----------



## chucklinus (Oct 10, 2013)

Very helpful! Thanks for the guide!!!


----------



## Adam Enggasser (Dec 28, 2013)

Definitely some great tips!


----------



## bruceleader (Jan 15, 2014)

*Always try to work on your own bike!*



Adam Enggasser said:


> Definitely some great tips!


I agree!! Amazing guide!

I want to make a case for working on your own bike.

I jotted down some reasons in a recent blog article, you can find it here if you feel like an informational laugh.

Keep the rubber side down! Cheers!


----------



## shinge (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks too


----------



## jamieharris (Apr 24, 2014)

Great tips for beginners!


----------



## adrenalinejoe (May 7, 2014)

Awesome guide. As a newbie to the mtb world this has made bike tune ups a lot less intimidating. Im glad i stumbled across this before caving to the lbs for help. Thanks for the time and effort spent.


----------



## orlagallmty (Oct 27, 2014)

very explicit guide, thanks !!


----------



## Codeman (Jul 8, 2015)

This is great info. Hopefully it will save me some time and money from always having to take the bike to the LBS for even the smallest adjustments. I'm not really mechanically inclined, but from some helpful advice now I was able to adjust my front derailleur because the chain was not going into little ring. Normally, I would just think that only the LBS can fix something like this, but through some instruction on the website I learned that it was as simple as turning a tiny screw a half turn. Once I did it, the chain easily moved into the little ring. So, its great to have this info to help us. Thanks so much!


----------



## hendrawan (Jul 11, 2015)

Great,very details. Makes me know more about my bike


----------



## Northstar01 (May 24, 2014)

Nice guide! Thank you!


----------



## Gorn1120 (Jul 18, 2015)

It'd be even cooler if you had videos on each part.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i've busted my lower headset bearings after 3 months of not so abusive use, but from cleaning after every ride.

what i think i've done wrong is using a garden hose to wash it (sprinkle). after i've replaced my busted lower bearing, i just use a damp sponge to wipe stuff off.

according to cc aside from the lower bearing accepting most of the upward force from the fork, water tends to seep from the top and tend to pool on the lower part, hence busting it out easily.


----------



## Wikiddude (Sep 20, 2015)

What can I use for as an alternative for chain oil if I don't have the right stuff with me?


----------



## ChILd_ReBoRn (Jul 30, 2015)

Automotive oul..sae 10w40, or oil for fine mechanics


----------



## Wikiddude (Sep 20, 2015)

My friend just gave me wax, I'm using that for now. That wont gum up the chain will it?


----------



## amitpokhrel (Jan 16, 2016)

great article..


----------



## fearfeedsmee (Jan 31, 2016)

Excellent Guide thank you for putting this together


----------



## WASHOFSKYC (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the help thanks be to god


----------



## gregzx (Apr 20, 2016)

Thank you very much! The guide page has been bookmarked!


----------



## Landocalriz (May 15, 2016)

Awesome! Thanks for the Tips!


----------



## snowboardgeek1 (Jun 1, 2016)

Thank you!


----------



## Getmeinshape (Jul 2, 2016)

Thanks!


----------



## Kharmore (Jul 7, 2016)

Thanks a lot!


----------



## DcDeathscythe (Jul 12, 2016)

Very nice, very informative.


----------



## Blueblazeme (Jul 27, 2016)

Much appreciated!


----------



## Westcoast_kid (Aug 6, 2016)

Very helpful.


----------



## khagan (Aug 6, 2016)

excellent guide


----------



## Usman22152 (Aug 25, 2016)

Awesome write up


----------



## TOPFLiTE1994 (Oct 16, 2016)

No pics


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## kybikeman (Apr 7, 2017)

This may be a dumb question, but I'm about to clean my bike for the first time and I'm not sure where break/ derailleur pivots are that I need to drop some lube on. Help appreciated


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## Ratheruneeq1 (Apr 14, 2017)

Great info! Been looking for something like this!


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## BMArias15 (Apr 16, 2017)

This was exactly what I needed.. ended up giving my bike as well as 2 other friends bikes a tuneup and wash.. never knew it was such a detailed and required maintenance with these bikes. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾


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## Rency (Sep 14, 2017)

Good thread. Thanks


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