# Too much cable tension



## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

when I shift all the way up in the rear to the smallest sprocket. its hard to shift back down, feels like theres so much tension on the shifter. I assume I need to reduce tension using the barrel adjuster? does it matter what gear I'm in when I make the adjustment? if I'm sitting on the bike do I turn the barrel clock-wise?

thanks.


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## False (Feb 18, 2011)

Chances are your limit screw is set a little too close. IME, that usually does it.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

Although "tension" is frequently used, the barrel adjuster doesn't really adjust tension. It adjusts the derailleur's index position. Adjusting the BA will move the der's position for all the gears. I'm guessing you may have a dirty cable and housing.


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## tduro (Jan 2, 2007)

The barrel adjuster does in fact adjust cable tension. It may seem backwards, though. By loosening the barrel adjuster, you are lengthening the casing, which tightens the cable. If you're having trouble shifting, in either direction, replace the cable and casing. Then have the derailleur properly adjusted.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Tension is probably not the most accurate descriptor. 

That said, If it's hard to downshift through all of the gears, I would not say it was a limit screw. Those only set the limit the derailleur will travel at the far ends of it's range. The barrel adjusters will not make it easier either.

How old is the bike?

Is it ever stored outside, washed or sprayed with a hose, or ridden in the rain?

I'm with the 'probably needs new cables, and especially housings' crowd based on what has been stated so far.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

jeffj said:


> Tension is probably not the most accurate descriptor.
> 
> That said, If it's hard to downshift through all of the gears, I would not say it was a limit screw. Those only set the limit the derailleur will travel at the far ends of it's range. The barrel adjusters will not make it easier either.
> 
> ...


its only hard to downshift from 9 to 7 or 6. shifting from 9 to 8 is hardest, while going down each one theres less and less resistance. not stored outside, its been washed with a hose a few times, ridden in the rain a couple times. bike is 8 months old.


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## crclawn (Sep 26, 2010)

Watch this video several times and as stated above, make sure your cable is not sticking. I find that having a repair stand is very hepful or getting the bike off the ground when make derailure adjustments.

http://www.youtube.com/user/IntownBicycles#p/u/5/SjJfKO_tAo0


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Gabe3 said:


> its only hard to downshift from 9 to 7 or 6. shifting from 9 to 8 is hardest, while going down each one theres less and less resistance. not stored outside, its been washed with a hose a few times, ridden in the rain a couple times. bike is 8 months old.


Still won't be a limit screw adjustment or a barrel adjustment. Sounds like either a cable/housing issue, or possibly a gummed up shifter. Derailleurs usually don't get 'sticky'.

Shift the bike to 9th gear. If you can use your hand to move the derailleur over toward the hub a little ways, and then operate the shifter to see if it is still stiff to move. If it is (you may need help to do this), still hold the derailleur over toward the hub, and pull the housing out from the shifter as much as you can then let go of it (it should be slack at this point) and then operate the shifter again. It should pull the housing toward the shifter. If the shifter is still hard to move when you do this, the shifter is where the problem is. If the shifter pull that little bit of slack back in easily, it's likely the cable/housing that is gummed up.

If you are brave enough to feel like you can disconnect the rear derailleur cable, and reconnect it again, you can more easily check the shifter and cable movement within the housing. To reconnect the cable and adjust it properly, follow these directions:

1) Shift the bike to the smallest cog (9th gear if it's a nine speed setup). Turn the cable adjuster on the shifter for the rear derailleur (right end of the handlebar) all the way in and then back it all one full turn. If you're using a Shimano derailleur with a cable adjuster where the cable enters the rear derailleur, do the same thing with that adjuster that you did with the one on the shifter.

2) Loosen the cable nut on the rear derailleur and gently use a pair of pliers to pull the cable fairly snug (but no need to pull it super tight), and tighten the nut a little over half way tight (tight enough that it won't move when you shift while adjusting, but no so tight it will disfigure the cable in case you have to make an adjustment before you're finished).

3) Shift the bike to 2nd gear and look at it from the rear of the bike. Use the cable adjuster (on the rear of the derailleur if it's a Shimano or at the shifter if using SRAM) to adjust the top pulley on the derailleur so it is lined up exactly with the 2nd to largest cog on the cassette. You use the adjuster on the rear derailleur for this step if using Shimano so that you save as much room at the shifter as possible for subsequent on-the-fly adjustments.

4) On the rear derailleur, shift to the largest cog and look at the derailleur from behind. Use the limit screw on the side of the derailleur to adjust the derailleur so the top pulley wheel lines up exactly with the large cog when looking at it from behind. Shift down to the smallest cog and do the same using the other adjustment screw on the back of the derailleur.

5) Again shift to 2nd gear and check the pulley alignment and then shift to the 8th cog and make sure it lines up well there too. Make any fine adjustments you can see are necessary.

6) You are ready to test ride the bike. If it is not shifting smoothly, shift it to 2nd gear and look at it from behind. Hold up the rear of the bike and turn the pedal (it's easier if you have help doing this). You can also turn the bike upside down, but shift it first to 2nd gear so you don't have to do this with the handlebars on the ground. Watch the way the chain acts as you turn the pedals. If it jumps up toward the largest cog, turn the adjuster inward (tighten) one 'click' at a time until it stops jumping. If it is looking like it is trying to shift to a smaller cog, turn the adjuster as though to loosen it (this will in effect increase the cable length) until it stops trying to shift downward. Retest the bike by riding it. Repeat this step until it shifts perfectly.


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## markf (Jan 17, 2007)

i'd guess sticky cable, but that usually manifests itself more noticeably on the up shift, because you're just letting the derailleur spring pull the chain to the smaller cog, taking tension off the cable actually. downshifts can be effected by gummed up cables as well, but because the shifter is overpowering the der spring and physically pulling the cable to push the chain to the physically larger cog. i'd lube the cables then do steps 1-6 above. and if that doesn't help, maybe take it to the shop you bought it from. odds are good they'll help you out for cheap/free.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

ok, I looked at whats going on. theres a lot of cable slack in 9th gear, and it really hasn't been going into 9th gear without me pushing the derailleur. heres a picture of why its hard to shift and not going into 9th and sometimes 8th gear. right above the L, those two parts are rubbing. its getting stuck, I have to push it down for it to go into 9th gear. from about 7-9th theres no clearance. not sure what to do.


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## Nadric (Apr 12, 2011)

I don't see a B screw in that pic, but if you have one, you need to tighten it to increase the gap between the top spindle on your derailleur and the smallest cog on your cassette. This should also stop the parts mentioned from touching


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

The b-screw is already screwed in fairly far, tightening it doesn't seem to help. its moving the top spindle but those two parts in the pic I posted don't seem to be moving away from each other.


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## Razorhog (May 18, 2011)

IMO, time for a professional tune-up. If the bike is only 8 months old, maybe they will do one for free.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

Razorhog said:


> IMO, time for a professional tune-up. If the bike is only 8 months old, maybe they will do one for free.


yeah a free tune up turns into "oh you need a new rear derailleur, we'll charge you twice what it costs online plus 20 to install it"

I'll grind the alloy off if I have to. I have almost 3000 miles on it so far, I've been keeping the rest of it running well.


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## DavidF (Jul 23, 2009)

Have you wrecked the bike or has it fallen on the derailleur at any time? I would also guess it's time for new cables and housing but check to see if your derailleur and/or the hanger is bent. I had some similar shifting problems the other day after I bent my der. hanger in a small crash. Chain was getting hung up between the hanger and the cassette.


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

DavidF said:


> Have you wrecked the bike or has it fallen on the derailleur at any time? I would also guess it's time for new cables and housing but check to see if your derailleur and/or the hanger is bent. I had some similar shifting problems the other day after I bent my der. hanger in a small crash. Chain was getting hung up between the hanger and the cassette.


I've wrecked before, I guess that could have caused the problem, I've had this problem for awhile.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

You should check the mounting bolt for the derailler and it looks like you have a derailleuer mount that bolts on to frame check those also ,if they are loose that could be part of the problem. It also looks like the cable is frayed . With 3000 miles its time for new cables and housing anyway.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

In addition to what's been mentioned.....

Have you changed the chain with a longer one? The chain appears to be too long for the der to take up all the slack. 

Does it only occur when on the small front ring? You should avoid cross-chaining small, small. Go ahead and upshift to the front middle ring for the same gear ratios.


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

i love this.. could be like a million things lol without any of us throwing it on the stand everyone is just talking out of their ass.. take it to a bike shop and have them do a tune up... trust your LBS or you shouldn't have bought from them

this is where befriending more experienced rides via group riders in your local trail/forum or whatnot helps, they can show you little things so you can do those minor adjustments yourself and be able to diagnose the problem by going to a shop


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## Gabe3 (Mar 13, 2009)

pfox90 said:


> i love this.. could be like a million things lol without any of us throwing it on the stand everyone is just talking out of their ass.. take it to a bike shop and have them do a tune up... trust your LBS or you shouldn't have bought from them
> 
> this is where befriending more experienced rides via group riders in your local trail/forum or whatnot helps, they can show you little things so you can do those minor adjustments yourself and be able to diagnose the problem by going to a shop


heh, well I posted the picture but people are just replying without looking. my derailleur must have gotten bent or something. I filed off some aluminum so its no longer rubbing and its shifting well again, its a cheap derailleur, I wouldn't have done something like that to a high quality one. anyway, problem seems solved.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Gabe3 said:


> heh, well I posted the picture but people are just replying without looking. my derailleur must have gotten bent or something. I filed off some aluminum so its no longer rubbing and its shifting well again, its a cheap derailleur, I wouldn't have done something like that to a high quality one. anyway, problem seems solved.


You may be right about the derailleur being being bent. Hard to see for sure, but it looks like it could be binding there which could give you a problem in the taller gears.

The derailleur should move freely (against the spring tension) until it hits the tip of the "H" limit screw. If it binds before it hits there, you've got a bent derailleur


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