# Tubeless Tape Thread



## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions.

*Stans Yellow tape*:
We all know it's just yellow strapping tape. The problem is the price of it and how much you get. Currently they want 12.00 plus shipping for barely 10yds of it. Strapping tape negatives are if change out tires a lot like i do, eventually the bead grabs the tape and peels it away as you pop the bead off the tire. People swear that Tesa 4289 tape on amazon is the exact same thing.

*3m/scott film Blue Strapping Tape 8896*:
This is the exact tape specialized used to send out with their roval wheelsets. They have since changed. My experience with this tape is that the adhesive sticks decent to alum rims, but ****ty to carbon rims. Also the adhesive seems like it becomes even more crappy as it sits in amazons warehouses or whatever warehouse. When I look at the roll i see gaps where there's space between and you can tell the adhesive is not sticky there. The results of this is a crappy bond to your rim and when you pop the bead off your rim the bead grabs the tape and pulls it off the flat ramp next to the bead wall allowing sealant to leak in when you seal it back up. It does not stick worth a crap to carbon rims either.

*jvcc polypro strapping tape from amazon*:
Great stuff. You need to go around the rim twice because this stuff is about 1/2 thick as the stan strapping tape in thickness, but it works great on alum. rims and is cheap.

*Gorilla tape*:
We know people love this stuff, but there's 2 major complaints I've had about it. 1st is the sticky residue it leaves behind if you ever need to re-tape or sell the rim or work on the rim, etc, etc. It's a mess. You will spend 30min cleaning it with goo gone and scotch pad. It sucks. Then the next issue is with it, is its weight. If you are a enduro / big huck rider then stop reading, but if you race XC and worry about rotational weight it really is heavy. Don't think so? Order the roll from Enve which is the exact amount it takes to do 2x29 wheels. That roll literally weighs 92g. Now think about that. You spend all this time trying to save weight here and there and then you are going to add damn near 100g back to your wheelset. They (Enve) advertise their wheelset at 1410g, but by the time you add their gorilla tape it comes to 1500g.

*Gorilla Clear Repair tape*:
This is hands down my favorite tape, but it has some drawbacks. Lets start with the positive. If you have aluminum rims then this should be your goto stuff. IT's really weird.. It's like it's vinyl with the most sticky adhesive I've ever felt. Like pretty much if you are going to use it, plan on it being basically permanent. Its so sticky it's hard to get off your fingers when you are putting it down. This stuff does work excellent though on alum rims. The price is great. Another hard part about this tape is cutting it down to size. What I did was stretch out the tape and start at one side of the rim and lay it down with the other side hanging off. once all the way down I went around with a razor blade and cut off the excess.

Now when it comes to carbon rims. I am scared to try this stuff. It's soo sticky that I am afraid it might f up the rim if i ever need to take it off.

Again if you have alum rims, just get this stuff.. It will never peel up or let you down.

update: 8/11/16 - Some have reported that at very high psi's (more than you would typically use for mtb tires, probably cx tires, that they are blowing out holes around the nipple holes. This can be resolved by using 2 layers of tape instead of just 1

*electrical tape*:
You can use it in a pinch, but it will eventually peel up.

*scott transparent duct tape*:
I have not used this, but am pretty curious about it after reading this guys thread on sealing up his fat bike with it. Seems like it would be semi close to the gorilla clear repair tape, but maybe not so permanent?
Has anyone used this on carbon rims
update 8/19/14 - I tried this on my enve's and it wasn't all that great. I thought it was going to be a home run as I layed it down but once i sealed up the tire it kept getting slow leaks and would lose about 10lbs a night. I popped the bead off and sure enough stans had leaked thru the overlap area. Trust me I put the tape down proper. I am very anal about that.

*velotape by velocity*:
I am really really curious to find out what kind of tape this is. Other than gorilla clear repair tape, this is the best tape i've used on alum. rims. Actually the bike shop had my bike for a warranty issue and when they gave it back the said my rear tire was leaking so they retaped it with this stuff. It's been on there 1yr and i've switched tires about 3x's on that bike. It never catches or pulls off like strapping tape does. It's really like a vinyl type tape. I would love to know exactly what kind of tape this stuff is.

updated 8/19/14:
*Tyvek Home Wrap Tape/Sheathing Tape/aka seam tape:*
This has become my 2nd favorite tape so far. I still say if you want bomb proof go with the gorilla clear and you have aluminum rims. However, if you have carbon or are scared to use gcrt on your rims for fear of it becoming permanent then this should be your next tape. I am pretty sure this is what velocity velotape is. It's basically strapping tape that is more stretchy so it's easier to pull tight and get to lay all the way down. Great stuff and peels back up fairly descent if you need to redo the tire for any reason. I did 2 layers around a 29" rim and the weight came to 9g.
(see bottom of post for most recent info)

updated 4/12/16
*Kapton Tape - Fratelli Tape*
gmats was the first to post about this. The 1mil Kaptop tape basically used in electronics and other b.s. like that is more than likely the spank fratelli tape. Most users on here report pretty good luck. If you go to chain reaction and look at their user reviews of the tape, they are not the best reviews. I myself have not used it yet, but again others on this thread have.

updated 11/30/16 - OK I've been using this brown kapton tape on my carbon wheels for a couple of months now after I put some new rubber on. My tyvek stuff peeled up fine, but I didn't feel like going out to get another roll and cutting it to size. So I gave this stuff a shot. It's great.. It has a little flex to it so it fits really nice down into the channel without getting those annoying air pockets. It seems to stick really well to the carbon surface so I am sure it will be just fine on aluminum. It comes in varied sizes and I am pretty sure you could get away with just 1 layer. It's so light though I do one layer one way and the other layer the other. So far after 2 months its been fine. This will probably be my future goto tape unless someone figures out what that velocity tape is. Nice find by gmats on this one.
you can get it on amazon.

*Tesa 4289*
This is the tape that people say is exactly what Stans is. You can find it dirt cheap on amazon. The only issue i've had with stans tapes and as well as the 9998 tapes is that when they sit or are in the heat long the adhesive tends to wear off. I've even got rolls from amazon that were kind of warped and you could tell the warping was from them getting hot/cold/hot/cold int he warehouse and the adhesive coming undone.

added 8/11/16
*Maxi 248 Polyester/Silicone Single Coated Splicing Tape*
I've been using this tape on all my wheels lately. I think bang for the buck and ease of use have this as the best deal you can get. I still like tyvek and gorilla clear, but you have to cut both those down. This stuff is cheap, just the right thickness, good adhesive, does not tend to peel up when dismounting a tire, and doesn't leave residue. You get enough to do ridiculous amount of wheels. You get so much that I use this to tape basically anything around the house. The bold title i have up there is for the 2" version which I cut down on the rim after going around with an xacto knife. However I found some 1" wide that is 2mil thick (the maxi 248 is 3.3mil thick).* 1" X 72 Yds - Tapes Master 2 Mil Green Powder Coating Masking Tape - High Temperature* <- I have not used this brand yet, but will probably buy it next when I run out of the maxi 248
as of 11/30/16 I've switched my primary tape to the kapton. This stuff still works fine and is great. So you can't go wrong with this stuff either. I just feel that it's slightly easier to not have air pockets with the kapton vs. this. This is my 2nd fav. tape though.

*3M Construction Seaming Tape 8087 Red*
Tried this thinking it would be like my tyvek tape.. It wasn't. It didn't work to well for me and the sides peeled up when popping the bead to put more stans in.

*Frost King Clear Tape*: 
6/25/19: updated
So if you goto post #605 you will see the mention of this tape. I ordered some from amazon and was excited about it already being the correct size for most modern rims and that the poster had success on his rims (which keep in mind are aluminum). I gave it a shot on some brand new Enve rims that had never had tape on them. The tape laid down good, but as I was going around the tire I was thinking "damn this taking me forever to get back to where i started to overlapped. Well it turns out this tape does not stay stuck to carbon at all. Like when laying it down it seems like it was going to stick but the moment the wheel turned 90 degrees the tape would just fall off. I then tried it on my reynolds carbon rims, and the same thing. This tape does not work with carbon. Thus I'd only suggest it for aluminum rims and in that case if you have aluminum, i'd just use gorilla clear or this would be a 2nd runner up to that. 
This tape should only be used on aluminum rims.

*2/12/18: Update.*
Came back to check on thread and see if I needed to add any new entries. As of this date and doing lots of tires on different rims this is my personal observation. If you want the tape to last and peel up fine and have the best of both of those worlds, the Tyvek tape is the best. I find that it never peels up from the edge, but somehow is easy to peel off if you need to sell the rim. I find it the lightest and really the toughest. If you tape it right with this stuff you can literally just use 1 layer. I use 2 since its so light. The only sucky think about tyvek is that you have to cut it size. Which blows if you mess up while trying to cut it with a razor blade. It would be awesome if there was a way to outsource some company that could cut this down to 22mm size or whatever size you wanted.

My 2nd choice would be kapton. It's dirt cheap and you can get it close to your size. I have found this to work on rims for 6-12months. Eventually it will peel up but most of you raw dawgs out there will be finished with a tire by then.

3rd choice is the green poly tape. It's dirt cheap too.

Tyvek ftw till I find something else.

Let me know if I need to update, but for now I don't see a better tape IMO than tyvek.

updated: 6/25/19


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

great post!
the blue Scotch is 8898.
8896 is ivory.
not that it matters...

I'm curious why you list the major drawbacks of Gorilla as being the sticky crap it leaves behind and weight, then your favorite tape is clear Gorilla, which you don't provide weight info for and describe as being "permanent." Have you ever tried to remove the clear stuff? How did it go? What does it weigh compared to Gorilla? How is the clear any better than regular Gorilla?


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

meltingfeather said:


> great post!
> the blue Scotch is 8898.
> 8896 is ivory.
> not that it matters...
> ...


gorilla clear repair tape weight is on par with velotape by velocity. about 20-40g.. I have removed it from a stans crest rim and was scared it was going to pull up paint, but it did not. It did not leave and residue behind like the normal gorilla tape does.

go to home depot and check it out. Normal gorilla tape is more like a cloth style duct tape as you know. The gorilla clear is more like a vinyl strip or clear packing tape, but tougher, but not near as thick as regular gorilla tape. It is thicker though than lets say normal packing tape. The clear is also waterproof.. it's literally meant to like repair inflatable tubes and crap like that. It's awesome stuff.. Just scared to try it on carbon.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

I don't always use tubeless, but the scotch filament tape works and pretty much comes all the way off if needed. You can snip the end to the width you need and the excess stays on the roll at that width, quick.. I do two layers so each side has the straight cut from the roll.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'm using gorilla tape atm, the 1" wide role comes in handy since dont have to tear it for my 29er. Not sure how much torn edge effects anything, did it on my sons 20" seems to work fine.

Definitely going to check out the clr stuff. Figure heat gun will assist in removal should it become necessary.
Sent from my Nokia Stupid Phone using Tapatalk


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Tagged for info. 

May finally go tubeless once my Ikons come in.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

combfilter said:


> gorilla clear repair tape weight is on par with velotape by velocity. about 20-40g.. I have removed it from a stans crest rim and was scared it was going to pull up paint, but it did not. It did not leave and residue behind like the normal gorilla tape does.
> 
> go to home depot and check it out. Normal gorilla tape is more like a cloth style duct tape as you know. The gorilla clear is more like a vinyl strip or clear packing tape, but tougher, but not near as thick as regular gorilla tape. It is thicker though than lets say normal packing tape. The clear is also waterproof.. it's literally meant to like repair inflatable tubes and crap like that. It's awesome stuff.. Just scared to try it on carbon.


good to know. :thumbsup:

I haven't had any adhesion issues with the 8898 on aluminum or carbon.


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

Here's my Opinion on Gorilla tape (the black kind) used in ghetto-tubeless fashion:

1. It's cheap - I bought 1 2" wide roll (maybe 8$???) and have done 5-6 wheels' worth and could easily do that many more from just one roll.
2. It's easy - Easy to cut-to-width on the roll, easy to apply, easy to install valve stem. The threads in the tape make it a bit finicky, so it requires a bit of "finish" work for a perfect surface.
3. It's heavy - Ex. For a DT Swiss EX500 rim (21mm inner width, similar to Stan's Arch EX), a couple layers, adds 50gr per wheel
4. The adhesive will soften with Stan's sealant , but it doesn't completely fail. But it does not uniformly decompose either...
5. Removal can be a *****.. it will pull the paint right off the rim in spots. Problem? probably not.. just cosmetic.
6. It does not like to have tires repeatedly put on and taken off. So, I just redo it every time I change a tire - which is only when one is worn out.

I can do a wheel in 10 minutes. I got my technique down. I don't be ticklin or nuthin.

That said, I'm rebuildign the DTswiss EX500 wheels into Stan's Arch EX Wheels and will use Stan's tape.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

I don't have any experience with it but seems like Orange Seal should make the list.
Rim Tape - Orange Seal

meltingfeather, where do you source the scotch tape? I believe Ibis is also using it on their carbon rims.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

yogidave said:


> Here's my Opinion on Gorilla tape (the black kind) used in ghetto-tubeless fashion:
> 
> 1. It's cheap - I bought 1 2" wide roll (maybe 8$???) and have done 5-6 wheels' worth and could easily do that many more from just one roll.
> 2. It's easy - Easy to cut-to-width on the roll, easy to apply, easy to install valve stem. The threads in the tape make it a bit finicky, so it requires a bit of "finish" work for a perfect surface.
> ...


I agree and have experienced points 4,5,6 of your opinion here as well. I forgot to mention them above but yes the gorilla tape does soak up some of the sealant and it's not uniform on how it does it either. Yes about not liking tires removed. Another reason why gorilla clear repair is good. You can remove your tire 50x's with out it grabbing the lip of the tape and peeling it back.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

OK, so the scotch clear duct tape didn't work out well on my enve's. It seemed like it would be good but stans can get between the over layer that you go over 3-4 inches after you completed your rounds.

So I think I found out what velo tape is. I think it's the same tape as that tyvek home wrap. There's a few different brands out there. Here's some cool red ones http://www.amazon.com/Shurtape-HW-300-Housewrap-Sheathing-Tape/dp/B00ATGOTKC/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1408397419&sr=1-4&keywords=1%22+sheathing+tape

So on that note I went and bought some from hd and basically it's like strapping tape but with much better adhesive and more stretchy like the velotape. So as you pull it, you can lay it down tight with no air bubbles and it sticks really well. I am real pleased with it so far and trust it enough that I went ahead an put it on my carbon rims. The only caveat i came across was when tightening the valve it grabbed some of the tape and ripped it.. Seems weird too because the tape is pretty tough. I removed it and it peeled up as easy as strapping tape and did not leave any residue. It's water proof and uses some acrylic style adhesive. I don't see it becoming permanent like i feel the gorilla clear could. I still say that gorilla clear repair tape is the best if you have aluminum rims and you want a sure seal with no bead grabbing the tape and pulling it up. I put this tyvek home wrap now in 2nd and it's what's going on my carbon wheels.


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Lazy subscribing...


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

Just for completeness.....

I taped the Arch EX wheel with stan's yellow tape per the instructions on their website - 1 layer with 4" overlap opposite the Valve hole.

With the valve stem installed, the wheel weight increased from 891gr to 904gr on my postal scale --> 13gr increase.

Recall that to do a standard rim (i.e. not one with a shallow bead depth like stans), you need to do a few layers of Gorilla tape Black. For a 21mm inner width 26" rim like the DT Swiss EX500, this adds 40-50gr before the valve stem - 49gr on the one I tested.

Multiple layers of gorrilla-black will help lock in the bead by decreasing the depth to be more in line with a Stan's rim.

Also, there's something to be said for just paying a little extra for *exact* width tape and not having to cut a 2" roll down yourself.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

To compare apples to apples, how much would the Stan's tape weigh on a standard (non-Stan's) rim if you applied enough to build up the inner rim as you did with the gorilla tape? On another note, are you cutting the wide gorilla tape rather than simply purchasing the 1" width?
I only used one layer of 1" gorilla tape on my light bicycle carbon rims with bead hooks and have been very happy. I haven't noticed any issues and have changed my tires numerous times in 1.5 yrs. of riding. I haven't had to deal with "sticky adhesive residue" when removing it since I don't plan on taking it off. I also have had other rims with Stan's tape in the past 5 yrs and never had tape come off unless I had to remove it to replace a spoke nipple. YMMV.


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

Andy13 said:


> To compare apples to apples, how much would the Stan's tape weigh on a standard (non-Stan's) rim if you applied enough to build up the inner rim as you did with the gorilla tape? On another note, are you cutting the wide gorilla tape rather than simply purchasing the 1" width?
> I only used one layer of 1" gorilla tape on my light bicycle carbon rims with bead hooks and have been very happy. I haven't noticed any issues and have changed my tires numerous times in 1.5 yrs. of riding. I haven't had to deal with "sticky adhesive residue" when removing it since I don't plan on taking it off. I also have had other rims with Stan's tape in the past 5 yrs and never had tape come off unless I had to remove it to replace a spoke nipple. YMMV.


1" = 25.4mm. Rim inner width is 21mm, so I am cutting regardless of buying the 2" or 1".

Bottom line is that you have to use enough tape to (adequately" seal a given tire on what ever rim you use. If that means 1 layer of Stan's yellow tape, or 3 layers of Gorilla Black, then that's what you need. I don't know what the optimum thickness (or layers needed) is to achieve a robust interface between rim bead and tire. However, part of the "system requirements" for running a non-tubeless rim (eg DT Swiss EX500) is to reduce the depth of the bead hook so that tire bead is firmly held in place with little/no gaps. This should (probably?) helps seal the tire.

So lets say this for 2 rims, both with 21mm inner width:

1: stans arch EX rim + yellow tape requires 1 layer of Stan's yellow tape and adds about 10gr

2. DT Swiss EX500 rim + Gorilla Black (3x layers) adds about 40-50gr (say 15gr/layer). maybe you could do it with 2 and reduce the weight 15gr/wheel.

I've never had Stan's rims before, so I'll report back with tire mounting experience and compare to ghetto tubeless on the DT EX500 in a few days.


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

meltingfeather said:


> good to know. :thumbsup:
> 
> I haven't had any adhesion issues with the 8898 on aluminum or carbon.


Thanks & good to know as well...

I ordered a roll of 8896 to use on my LB carbon and Stan's aluminum rims from now on.


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I used bontrager strips on my bontrager wheels but I'm going to order the 8896 tape for my specialized wheels.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

Where are you guys sourcing the 3M Scotch 8896 tape?


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Why the hell can't more companies make something like the Bontrager hard plastic strips that don't leave messy residue, never leak or peal up, etc. I miss my Bontrager wheels BAD.

Gorilla tape will peal up after 1-2 tire changes... just swapped to Stan's tape and hasn't peeled up after 3 changes so far, knock on wood...


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## thickfog (Oct 29, 2010)

rockman said:


> Where are you guys sourcing the 3M Scotch 8896 tape?


Amazon.


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

Alias530 said:


> Why the hell can't more companies make something like the Bontrager hard plastic strips that don't leave messy residue, never leak or peal up, etc. I miss my Bontrager wheels BAD.
> 
> Gorilla tape will peal up after 1-2 tire changes... just swapped to Stan's tape and hasn't peeled up after 3 changes so far, knock on wood...


I decided not to go tubeless until I found out about the bontrager strips. It is reaaallly easy and made going tubeless a snap, pun intended.


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

No issues mounting tubeless on EX500 + black gorilla (sounds like a kind of pot!) or Arch + Stans yellow.

Both air-up with a regular floor pump, albeit with some fast strokes. Both pop/ping as expected.

Rim/tire combo:
Stans Arch EX + Conti Trail King 2.2 (2 diff used tires) -- good o go
DT Swiss EX500 + Maxxis Highroller 2 -- good to go

Will be doing the stans wheel with a new Maxxis Highroller 2 in the next few days. I expect no issues.


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

*Bead hook depth*

Interesting observation in comparing the two rims. The DT Swiss EX500 (on the right, below) measures in at about 6mm deep at the bead hook while the Arch EX (on the left, below)measures in at about half that.

One of the net results of this is that the bead is harder to break in the stans rim. This helps in preventing burping on hard hits at low pressure. So, on a non-tubeless rim, id does make sense to use a thick layer(s) of tape to reduce the depth.















I think anything you can do to seal the bead tightly up against the beak hook will help. It may take trial and error for different tape and rim combinations and it might make sense to measure rim depth with a caliper to help figure out how much tape to use.

BTW - Stan's Arch rim (with Stan's yellow tape) + Maxxis Highroller 2 2.4" 3C/EXO (not DH casing) seats easily with soapy water + a floor pump. Easy.


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

Tesa 4289 tape is the same tape used by Stan's. but Tesa comes in 66 meters length for the same price as Stan's set. found out about it on BikeMarkt.

also, people say you can use lighter Tesa 4288 but didn't use it myself.


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## Impulse922 (Mar 4, 2014)

To clear things up a bit, Amazon only sells blue 8896 in 24mm and ivory 8898 in 24mm. Before reading this thread, i always thought *8898* was the one we wanted?

At least thats what i bought and seems to work good enough.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

Impulse922 said:


> To clear things up a bit, Amazon only sells blue 8896 in 24mm and ivory 8898 in 24mm. Before reading this thread, i always thought *8898* was the one we wanted?
> 
> At least thats what i bought and seems to work good enough.


Same tape... 8898 is blue and 8896 is ivory per 3M.
Wouldn't be the first time an online vendor had a detail like that mixed up.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

What about American Classic tubeless tape, which has "proprietary polymer materials?" or Spank Fratelli tubeless ready tape which appears to be the same thing?


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## Bike Whisperer (Aug 7, 2012)

The Scotch 3M 8898 or 8896 works fine on the right width rim (ie tape goes bead to bead). The trick is preping the rim by cleaning all contaminants off it first with rubbing alcohol. But if you change your tires a lot, then something stickier is a better bet but for install and mount it works fine.

For set and forget it is hard to beat Gorilla Tape. Yes removing it can suck (trick is to heat it up with a heat gun first and most of the goo will come up with the tape) and yes it weighs a few grams more. But for set and forget through multiple tire changes, it is bulletproof.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Bike Whisperer said:


> The Scotch 3M 8898 or 8896 works fine on the right width rim (ie tape goes bead to bead). The trick is preping the rim by cleaning all contaminants off it first with rubbing alcohol. But if you change your tires a lot, then something stickier is a better bet but for install and mount it works fine.
> 
> For set and forget it is hard to beat Gorilla Tape. Yes removing it can suck (trick is to heat it up with a heat gun first and most of the goo will come up with the tape) and yes it weighs a few grams more. But for set and forget through multiple tire changes, it is bulletproof.


My gorilla tape experience has been different... It pulls up and loses its seal after 1-2 tire changes


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## max_croft (Jan 25, 2012)

So I'm hearing some noise coming from my 29er Enve AM and I'm thinking it might be corroded nipples. Currently they're setup tubeless so I'm going to have to remove the tape before I can see. I know Enve use Gorilla tape so I picked up the 1" roll but when I compared it to the small bit I have left that came with my rims, I've noticed it's thinner by about 4mm. Is this going to pose a problem?


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

yesterday got that Tesa 4289 tape I talked about in my previous post. 
exactly the same tape that Stan's setup use, probably just rebranded. the difference is the Tesa tape comes at 66 meters length unit and Stan's come bearly enough for five times your rim...

I'll use it today and post my findings.


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

Hey all,

I forget now who had suggested this tape (from these same MTBR forums), but I am using Clear Gorilla Repair tape cut to roughly 15mm on my 40mm Nextie Carbon Rims.

So far it has been holding up well. My front rim is still using normal 1" Gorilla Tape, but it has "soaked" itself with Stans; when I removed the previous application from the rear, the tape was quite heavy and wet. When I am less lazy I will apply the clear Gorilla repair tape to the front too.



















Bryan


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

yesterday I used Tesa 4289 tape for tubeless and after the day of hopping around mountain can say it is working with no problems whatsoever.


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## trees4me (May 25, 2008)

Thanks everyone for this thread! It was really helpful.

I was able to convert some velocity aeroheat with 3M #L625 "tough duct tape". It's not light, but those aren't my race wheels. Tape, orange seal and go riding!


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Frattelli ?


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

trees4me said:


> Thanks everyone for this thread! It was really helpful.
> 
> I was able to convert some velocity aeroheat with 3M #L625 "tough duct tape". It's not light, but those aren't my race wheels. Tape, orange seal and go riding!


Duct & Gorilla are good that way; the trade off is the weight and when you have to deal with it again it will be a sticky nightmare of goo residue on your rim.



hoolie said:


> Frattelli ?


Sorelle?


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## Ausable (Jan 7, 2006)

Interesting thread - subscribed
By the way I often change rear tires to suit conditions and tend to use the same front tire- and I am using Stans (expensive but holds great) on the rear wheels and Roval (cheaper but weaker adhesive) on front wheels


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

I use STANS on my 29er WTB i23 rims. Works great. My new 26er rims are SPANK OOZY 295, with Fratelli tape. Rims are being assembled now, but I have not tried the Fratelli tape yet. Curious to know anyone's experience. I don't have a good reason to stop using STANS yellow tape. Great thread everyone. I find this interesting and informative.


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

Stan's tape is great. but if you like that use Tesa 4289 tape as it is the same, and I really mean same exact tape. the thing is Stan's package comes with 4, 5 wheels length and Tesa's come in 66 meters length for the same or very similar price.

I used both Tesa and Stan's tapes and it really is the same material.



hoolie said:


> I use STANS on my 29er WTB i23 rims. Works great. My new 26er rims are SPANK OOZY 295, with Fratelli tape. Rims are being assembled now, but I have not tried the Fratelli tape yet. Curious to know anyone's experience. I don't have a good reason to stop using STANS yellow tape. Great thread everyone. I find this interesting and informative.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

bryan_d said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I forget now who had suggested this tape (from these same MTBR forums), but I am using Clear Gorilla Repair tape cut to roughly 15mm on my 40mm Nextie Carbon Rims.
> 
> ...


Read Post #1 of this thread. It was mentioned/reviewed. Looks like you had the balls to use it on carbon, which really should be fine.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

This is a great post. Great info OP. I too have had great success with the black gorilla tape for some time but it is heavy. I've sort of resorted to that for the reliability for now.

Anyone ever try this? 
1 Mil Kapton Tapes

We've used it for years for insulating our electronics and exhibits many great properties with heat mitigation and durability. I just have not yet had the nerve to try it in my rim. It is very light though and the adhesive works great. It also is "slippery" in that the bead and tire doesn't seem like it'd get hung up.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone else try it "yet".

Aloha.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Ok, my bike facebook page a couple of guys were saying that Gorilla tape, at higher PSI will expand into the spoke hole and rupture. Anyone with experience here?

What about Gorilla getting mushy? Won't this cause it to allow air in?

Does the clear gorilla tape react to the sealant like the black stuff? Does it get mushy and such?

And finally, ashas has posted several times about the Tesa tape. Anyone else try this stuff? ashas says it is identical, but just curious if it truly is as in how does it react to the sealant?

This post rocks. I just got my new bike and tried converting it to tubeless (my other bike was my first time and I had zero issues) and I kept having leaking around the valve. Couple of things I remembered I did differently that might help this thread
-It was cold and I was having issues with Stan's tape sticking (it would not). The last bike I did it in the summer when it was crazy hot.
-I used "green stuff" cleaner to clean the wheels. Last time I used alcohol. Wonder if the green stuff cleaner left some type of residue also.


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

Clear stuff does not react to sealant, however it cannot take much pressure and it will stretch to the point of tearing if you only use one layer.

I have purchased the Kapton tape but I have not installed it yet. I just hope the adhesive is a good one because the 3M Stans wannabe will not stick to my carbon rims.

Bryan


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## objectuser (Oct 27, 2013)

I've been using the 3M 8898 tape for a couple of months on my LB 35mm rims. It has held up well, no leaks. And I didn't exactly get it on perfectly, just tried to make sure it stuck. My wheels lost about 2lbs of pressure this last week.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

objectuser said:


> I've been using the 3M 8898 tape for a couple of months on my LB 35mm rims. It has held up well, no leaks. And I didn't exactly get it on perfectly, just tried to make sure it stuck. My wheels lost about 2lbs of pressure this last week.


Losing 2lb of pressure is holding up well? In my experience the with Ibis rims the 8898 with one round didn't stick. It also failed by stretching and popping into the inner spoke holes. I've been using two or three rounds. And as bike whisperer suggest, thoroughly cleaning the rim is key. I never worried about that with stans tape which seems to be more sticky.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

rockman said:


> Losing 2lb of pressure is holding up well?


in a week? Yes.
It's likely the tires and not the tape that would drive this. Your experience with 8898 is interesting... certainly different from mine. I've been setting up tubeless tires with it exclusively for about two years I'd guess with zero problems. Since I build wheels in my spare time I do more set ups than your average rider. I'm still on my first roll and have set up maybe a couple of dozen wheelsets with it.


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## thumperington (Mar 3, 2008)

@ashas,
where did you get the Tesa 4289? Local hw store? Most sources seem to sell bulk.

anyone compare 4298 to 4289?

for tubeless-ready rims, is the issue just covering the spoke holes, and not building the bead bed?


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

meltingfeather said:


> in a week? Yes.
> It's likely the tires and not the tape that would drive this. Your experience with 8898 is interesting... certainly different from mine. I've been setting up tubeless tires with it exclusively for about two years I'd guess with zero problems. Since I build wheels in my spare time I do more set ups than your average rider. I'm still on my first roll and have set up maybe a couple of dozen wheelsets with it.


I believe Ibis was initially using 3M 6409 Blue 471. I'm not sure if that was what was initially on my rims or not. I had assumed it was 8898 but dug up that info that that was what they were using last spring. I've since used 8898 on the same rims but did a double wrap just in case.


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## Lowball (Sep 1, 2006)

rockman said:


> I don't have any experience with it but seems like Orange Seal should make the list.
> Rim Tape - Orange Seal


Orange Seal is the tape I will be using on my next build of carbon wheels per the recommendation of the rim supplier Derby. This is directly from the web-site.

" The best most effective tape I've found is Orange Seal 18mm wide tape. It can be found for $10 to $12 (MSRP) on-line. One roll is enough for 4 rims, one round.

Another option is using one round of Stan's 12mm wide tape and adding another round of 3/4 inch (18mm) wide plastic tape over the narrow Stans, such as electricians black tape.

Using tape wall to wall is not needed, this can be too tight, and not seal as well with good quality tires. Only the spoke holes need to be sealed with good sticky tape, 3/4 inch or 18mm wide in the center channel. Derby Rims don't burp with tape only in the center channel, using every tire I've heard of. No one has ever complained about burps."


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## HillDancer (Dec 10, 2012)

I had Stan's 12mm tape double wrapped for nine months, sealant was beginning to migrate under the tape.










I replaced it with Orange Seal 18mm also wrapped twice. After seven months the OS tape is sealed well, so I see no need to wrap with fresh tape this time. The current tire I mounted is very stiff and has a tight bead circle, yet the tape edge didn't roll when pushing one side of the tire back over the bead lock after initially setting the beads with a tube. The Orange Seal tape also survived being repeatedly jabbed with a stick, which had punctured the former tire. I rode with the 1.5 inch length, .25 inch OD stick buried to the end for quite a ways before finding a safe place to dismount.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Any other experiences with the clear gorilla tape?

I am still wanting to know where you can get this tesa tape.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Here are two rolls for tessa on ebay.
If you are in the US like me, it will be coming from the United Kingdom.
Tesa 4289 | eBay

Trying to decide if I want the 19mm or the 25mm

EDIT: Just went ahead and ordered the 19mm.
If I have no luck with this, i will keep an eye on this thread, my next choice will be clear gorilla.
If that bombs, then i will just pony up and get the stans again


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

lardo5150 said:


> Any other experiences with the clear gorilla tape?
> 
> I am still wanting to know where you can get this tesa tape.


I used clear Gorilla tape when converting my wife's bike to Tubeless. It lays down sooo much easier than Stans, really is a piece of cake.

Only advice I have is to make sure your hands are clean of debris, this tape really picks up everything.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

cardnation said:


> I used Gorilla tape when converting my wife's bike to Tubeless. It lays down sooo much easier than Stans, really is a piece of cake.
> 
> Only advice I have is to make sure your hands are clean of debris, this tape really picks up everything.


Did you use the clear gorilla tape?
I am really curious what this stuff looks like after awhile since the normal tape seems to soak it up and "loosen" up.


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

lardo5150 said:


> Did you use the clear gorilla tape?
> I am really curious what this stuff looks like after awhile since the normal tape seems to soak it up and "loosen" up.


Yes the clear. Sorry about that, I've edited my post to make the distinction.

The clear tape is nothing like normal Gorilla and I really do mean nothing. Normal Gorilla is more of a cloth and porous.

If I was to describe the clear. I would say it is almost exactly like packing tape, except that it is a tad thicker and pliable/rubbery.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

awesome thanks.
have you taken the wheels off your wife's bike yet to see how the sealant is interacting with the tape?


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

lardo5150 said:


> awesome thanks.
> have you taken the wheels off your wife's bike yet to see how the sealant is interacting with the tape?


I've not had a reason to do so, since it is not losing pressure. This stuff is so sticky, I can't imagine it being affected.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

I ordered the tessa tape. I will let everyone know how it goes when it gets here next week or so.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

ok, so the Tesa 4289 roll came in the mail from the UK
















At first glance it looked identical. So I started to wrap my wheels.
I went ahead and wrapped each wheel 3 times around only because the last time I had so much trouble. Took me 2 hours because I was extra cautious about removing all air bubbles and such.
Wheels look ready, but I do not have time to get them setup any further, I will finish the setup tomorrow.

After cleaning up, I compared two strips. In the pic below is the Stan's tape on the left, and the tesa tape on the right. 
The stan's tape is clearly thicker.








My concern now is if the tape will hold up around the spoke holes to high PSI (I do not run low PSI tubeless). I have read posts before where people thought that certain ghetto tapes would blow out at higher PSI. I went 3 times around, so hoping not.

If this does not work, I will just go with the clear gorilla tape. Thinking of putting a single layer over this just for the hell of it.

What do you guys think?


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

double


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

lardo5150, you really overkilled it with three layers on each wheel. but safe is safe, I get that.

one more thing - from the pic of Stan's and 4289 tapes, I'd say your Tesa tape is narrower than Stans which is not the case with the one I used. there seems to be different versions of 4289 tape because the one I used is 25mm wide (as Stan's tape) and is not this transparent when I put it against the surface like yours is.

just wanted to say I used one layer on each wheel (Flow Ex rims) on Spesh tires and run between 1,8 - 2,5 bars on them depending what I ride that day and had no problems whatsoever.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Ashas, yes mine is 19mm.
I have used the 21mm of Stan's in the past. Never tried the 25mm, and the Tesa tape was only available in 19 or 25, so I just ordered the 19. The Stan's in my pic is 21.

Thanks for the info, I will have to do my google bars to psi converstion, lol.

I will get the tires set today, and let you know how it goes.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Just to add, I usually run around 35 PSI, just a tad bit more than you.


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

sorry, I'm european so I just wrote in bar's 

I'm guessing you're using a rim with less than 25mm inner width and that's why you used that 19mm tape. if I'm wrong, I strongly recommend getting 25mm 4289 tape next time.

looking forward to see how the setup held...


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

It is the standard rim that comes with the Diamondback Overdrive Pro.
Serious question, does it matter, just as long as the spoke holes are covered? I believe I measured it from lip to lip, and it is exactly 25mm.


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

thumperington said:


> @ashas,
> where did you get the Tesa 4289? Local hw store? Most sources seem to sell bulk.
> 
> anyone compare 4298 to 4289?
> ...


hey sorry for this late reply, I didn't check forum for few weeks.

I got the tape from my local Tesa distributor for free.
he also sell in bulks (whole package has at least 24 units).

he had couple of units laying around as specimens and he gave me one free because I called him on phone and he didn't believe I want to use it as air sealant tool for tubeless system on a bike 

he also told me to contact him when I need more of it, so that's great...

I already posted I learned about the tape on MTB-News.de, german bike portal that has huge community forum wise, but also great buy/sell portal called Bike Markt (link goes to Tesa tape offers).


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

lardo5150 said:


> It is the standard rim that comes with the Diamondback Overdrive Pro.
> Serious question, does it matter, just as long as the spoke holes are covered? I believe I measured it from lip to lip, and it is exactly 25mm.





thumperington said:


> @ashas,
> for tubeless-ready rims, is the issue just covering the spoke holes, and not building the bead bed?


I don't think the width matters, somebody here put narrow tape on a 40mm carbon rim and seems he doesn't have any problems.

on Flow Ex the width is 25mm as the tape itself so I had to watch out to not get in the way of the hook on the rim, nothing else. I think you're good with 19mm tape.
at least you'll find out about that pretty soon 

good luck with set-uping. let us know how it went.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

ashas said:


> sorry, I'm european so I just wrote in bar's
> 
> I'm guessing you're using a rim with less than 25mm inner width and that's why you used that 19mm tape. if I'm wrong, I strongly recommend getting 25mm 4289 tape next time.
> 
> looking forward to see how the setup held...


Here is my rim with the 3 layers of the tesa. I have never used the 25mm, even on the old bike that had zero issues getting setup tubeless.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

ashas said:


> hey sorry for this late reply, I didn't check forum for few weeks.
> 
> I got the tape from my local Tesa distributor for free.
> he also sell in bulks (whole package has at least 24 units).
> ...


Ya, I could not find it in the US. Amazon had it in bulk for like 700 bucks which defeated the purpose of saving money LOL.
I got it from this guy, Tesa 4289 No Tubes Tubeless Rim Tape 19mm Wide x 66M Long | eBay
fast shipping considering it came from the UK.


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

lardo5150 said:


> Here is my rim with the 3 layers of the tesa. I have never used the 25mm, even on the old bike that had zero issues getting setup tubeless.
> 
> View attachment 950437
> View attachment 950438


this looks very good.
if you had good experiences with 19mm tape before, I don't see why that would change now.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

ashas said:


> this looks very good.
> if you had good experiences with 19mm tape before, I don't see why that would change now.


it was the 21mm before. in mm that is not that much wider. Ya, the first bike went great.
I really think the issue I had before this with the new bike is its cold here and I was having issues getting the tape to stick. Plus, for whatever reason, me being a dummy I cleaned the rims with a cleaner instead of alcohol and I think it left a film.

I will let you know how it goes.
In my google search I think I saw the same post you saw where someone mentioned this was the same tape.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

The tape seems to be holding just fine right now.
I got the tires setup last night, but have not taken the bike for a ride.
I will say, without going into a long backstory, I ended up putting an o-ring on the stem as well, on the inside of the rim to add more of a seal.

Once I go for a ride i will let everyone know how it is holding. I currently have 35 psi in them.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

cpfitness said:


> I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?


That's hardcore man.

I just grab a box cutter, elevate it horizontally on whatever object can stabilize it at the height I want (peanut butter lid in my case) then I just spun the tape on the knife edge.

Cylinders and table-saws just put a funny feeling in my tummy.

Bryan


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

I would use a fence and a push stick. But perhaps I'll try your method first


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?


I did mine like this pic:
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb8465542/p4pb8465542.jpg

The only difference was I used an xacto knife.. Do this method and really just take your time. Once you go around it once it makes a groove that is easy for you to keep the blade in. Just go around a few more times until your blade goes pretty far in there. I went to fast on my first gorilla clear and screwed up. I learned my lesson because yes that tyvek tape is 12-14.00. I love it though. That's been my goto tape now.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

gmats said:


> This is a great post. Great info OP. I too have had great success with the black gorilla tape for some time but it is heavy. I've sort of resorted to that for the reliability for now.
> 
> Anyone ever try this?
> 1 Mil Kapton Tapes
> ...


Dude, I think you found out what tape is the AC and Spank Fratelli tapes are!. It's pretty much looks like that stuff.

Nice find. Let us know how it lays down on the rim, what type of rim you put it on, and how well it works.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

lardo5150 said:


> Ok, my bike facebook page a couple of guys were saying that Gorilla tape, at higher PSI will expand into the spoke hole and rupture. Anyone with experience here?
> 
> What about Gorilla getting mushy? Won't this cause it to allow air in?
> 
> ...


First, I'd just stay away from regular gorilla tape all together. The residue sucks, it's heavy, and it works ok, but there's better tapes out there that wont add 100g of rotational weight to your wheels.

Gorilla clear is in a different league than regular gorilla tape. It's more like vinyl but with a crazy adhesive. Just take your time cutting it to size. The good thing about it is that it's cheap. I am still too scared to use it with my carbon enve's. It's that sticky.

As far as cleaning your rims with simple green. Just use a blow dryer and heat up all the old tape and glue and wipe all that off. Use a scotch pad and alcohol to really clean up the rim and let that all evaporate. That should be it.

I bet what happened is the same stupid thing I did with my "orange clean" degreaser.. I used that to get old gorilla tape residue off and didn't realize that by spraying that directly onto the rim that I was letting that stuff get into the nipple hole. I'd then tape the wheel and the tape would come un done or leak. I finally realized there was leftover orange clean trapped inside where the nipple hole was that was causing my tape to come un done. Now I just use alcohol and a blow dryer.


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## Squidley Diddley (Feb 20, 2006)

Fratelli tape and Kapton tape

I had used the split tube method for a few years, and this year decided to try tape instead for a new set of wheels. I bought the Fratelli tape from CRC, and when I received it I saw that it looked identical to the kapton tape I have used at work. The Fratelli label said the material is polyimide, which is the same as kapton. There was not much length to the roll, probably around 5 yards for $15. So I bought a couple of 1"x36yard rolls of 1mil kapton tape on Amazon, $14 each. Looks identical. Since March 2014 I have one wheel taped up with the Fratelli tape, and one wheel taped up with the kapton tape. I used two layers on each rim, following the description from this thread:
Spank spike race28 - Pinkbike Forum

I am using 26" Spank Spike Race 28 EVO rims, with Schwalbe Magic Mary supegravity tires. The tires aired up with a compressor right away, and held air with no sealant overnight. I did put sealant in the next day. The setup has been working really well, no air loss at all. I have swapped out the front tire once, and the rear 3 times without re-taping. So far, no issues.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?


The people who have tried that can't type anymore.
A tablesaw is not going to work and be very dangerous. Use a razor blade.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

I've used Kapton and PET tape with success on LB rims. One rim with PEt and the other with Kapton.
I purchased both from DX. It was abut $5 a roll (30 metres). 
I used 2 wraps just to be safe. No issues so far in 8 months of use.


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Kapton sounds like the business - silicone adhesive with no mess sounds great to me. Plus I have spank oozy trail 295 rims and kapton is what they sell / recomment.

I see it in 1mil 1.5mil, 2mil and 2.7mil thickness. Bonus points for any one who finds out what the thickness used by spank / american classic and even more bonus points for cheapest source.

So far I have found 
Polyimide Tape - Kapton Tape - Masking Tapes - Soldering Tape

Tapes master on Amazon is about same

Can tape a while with shipping from Hong Kong but the price is right - 
Gold Finger High Temperature Adhesive Tape - 24mm x 33m Roll


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

cpfitness said:


> I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?


I've done something similar with a bandsaw. It was a much wider roll of specialty tape though, probably like 12", like a paper towel sized roll. It worked surprisingly good. In this case I would imagine cutting off such a thin section would be sketchy.


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## toyotatacomaTRD (Apr 4, 2012)

I've got 29mm inner width rims. I'm struggling to find tape that exact width and know from my arts and craft skills, I won't be able to cut tape accurately. Last bike I used stans 21mm tape on 21mm rims, worked perfectly and I had zero issues. I'm hoping to duplicate that success if possible.

So.. Do I need 29mm tape, or will 25mm tape work? Do the holes just have to be covered, or does the tape to tire bead seal give the best results?


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

toyotatacomaTRD said:


> I've got 29mm inner width rims. I'm struggling to find tape that exact width and know from my arts and craft skills, I won't be able to cut tape accurately. Last bike I used stans 21mm tape on 21mm rims, worked perfectly and I had zero issues. I'm hoping to duplicate that success if possible.
> 
> So.. Do I need 29mm tape, or will 25mm tape work? Do the holes just have to be covered, or does the tape to tire bead seal give the best results?


If you have tubeless rim (sealed seam) the it's only the holes that need covering.

If you look on the Derby site they use 15mm (or close) tape to seal their 35mm inner rim.

Bryan


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## mtb4p (Jan 14, 2015)

On wider rims only covering the spoke holes may work, but on narrower rims the tire bead upsets the tape, causing leaks and the need to retape. Rim channels vary across different wheels, but for my current WTB I23 rims they are 23 mm inner diameter and the tape specific to this rim from WTB is 28 mm, so +5 mm might be a good starting point for those trying to buy the right width tape without having to cut it to size.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I need something to replace the crappy Gorilla duct tape that keeps tearing and no longer seals my Arch EX rim. I have a ride on Sunday so I don't have time to wait for something on Ebay and I would rather avoid expensive Stan's tape. What can I pick up at Home Depot or something? Anyone have experience with Super Glue EZ Fuse tape?Super Glue, 1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape, 15408-6 at The Home Depot - Mobile (sku1000894281 on homedpot.com)


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

mack_turtle said:


> I need something to replace the crappy Gorilla duct tape that keeps tearing and no longer seals my Arch EX rim. I have a ride on Sunday so I don't have time to wait for something on Ebay and I would rather avoid expensive Stan's tape. What can I pick up at Home Depot or somethung? Anyone have experience with Super Glue EZ Fuse tape?Super Glue, 1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape, 15408-6 at The Home Depot - Mobile (sku1000894281 on homedpot.com)


Silicone tapes only fuse to themselves and have no adhesive, I don't know how well they would work on a rim. If I were in a pinch and needed something quick I would use something like this: Staples® Fiberglass Filament Tape | Staples®


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Home depot has tyvek tape. I don't rave about it like others as I had some issues getting it to seal but it could have been user error too. The issue for me is cutting the hole for the valve


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## mhelander (May 9, 2014)

I've got good results with Tyvek. I'm punching small hole for valve using marker punch or whatever it's called. Just big enough to push valve stem through so tape has plenty of area to seal against stem's rubber cone.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## DennisF (Nov 4, 2011)

Thanks to all for this thread. After spending $20/roll for Stans tape at the LBS, I decided to look around. Here is a summary of what I ended up doing:

I could not find the Tesa 4289 tape (Stan's equivalent) in the USA, so I compared the specs on Scotch 8896 (blue) and 8898 (ivory). Both are tensilized polypropylene with a natural rubber backing. The Tesa is 5.9 mils thick, and the Scotch is 4.6.

The 8896 and 8898 24mm wide x 55m long are available for about $6.50 delivered from Amazon prime.

I needed 21mm width. I tried clamping a razor knife to a cutting board, shimming it to the proper position with some old credit cards, but was not happy with the results. I ended up cutting the whole roll on the table saw. I feel it can be done safely as per the photo. Throw away the first few outer layers and the remaining tape is nearly perfect.

It looks, feels, and applies exactly like the Stans as near as I can tell.

According to the specs, it is best if used within 18 months. I put it in a zip-lock bag and threw it in the refrigerator.

I tried some Kapton tape first, because it was available in 19mm width which is close enough. However, I could not get it to seal around the valve stem.








You could cut out an an E-shaped finger guard instead of the single stick I used here.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/85462O/scotchr-strapping-tape-8896.pdf

http://www.packagingtapeinc.com/pactap/manuals/tesa_4289.pdf

Amazon.com: Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8898 Ivory, 24 mm x 55 m (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-S...F8&qid=1428255320&sr=1-1&keywords=scotch+8896


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

this is my taping experience. I cleaned the rims before hand with Coleman camp fuel and then 99% alcohol...really clean. I started with the standard Gorilla Tape cut down to width with an exacto knife. It worked okay but needed to be replaced as the tire bead would push the tape edge and peel it up. Also the gorilla tape delaminated and left terrible residue. Then I switched to LB carbon rims and the gorilla tape was so sticky in places that it actually removed very small carbon fibers. So that was the end of gorilla tape.

I bought 25mm 3M 8898 when people said it was Stans. Its not. It is stiffer and does not mold into the center channel near as well as Stans. As well I had failure of the tape when it split at a nipple hole. I have resorted to layering in a couple wraps of 12mm fiberglass tape over the holes and then wrapping the 25mm 8898 over it. Also the 8898 doesn't stick that well to itself so it would leak at the overlap back to the valve stem even though the overlap was 6 inches long. So I tape over the overlap with a couple inches of gorilla. Phew!! And the 8898 does not peel off in one piece, separating into fibers and leaving residue. 

I guess the next is Tesa 4289 which everybody says is Stans but I will believe it when I see it. Or to Kapton. The search continues.


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## DennisF (Nov 4, 2011)

Sorry the 8898 didn't work out for you. Where did you get yours? It doesn't seem like the sort of thing someone would counterfeit. Is the inside of the spool printed with the Scotch logo & model#? As I recall mine came in a sealed wrapper. 

If it's old I can see the glue losing adhesion. Maybe the plastic would get brittle over time.

Mine's still doing fine. I had the tire off to check the goo before a race, and the tape looked fine. I didn't go trying to peel it up tho .


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Snipe said:


> this is my taping experience. I cleaned the rims before hand with Coleman camp fuel and then 99% alcohol...really clean. I started with the standard Gorilla Tape cut down to width with an exacto knife. It worked okay but needed to be replaced as the tire bead would push the tape edge and peel it up. Also the gorilla tape delaminated and left terrible residue. Then I switched to LB carbon rims and the gorilla tape was so sticky in places that it actually removed very small carbon fibers. So that was the end of gorilla tape.
> 
> I bought 25mm 3M 8898 when people said it was Stans. Its not. It is stiffer and does not mold into the center channel near as well as Stans. As well I had failure of the tape when it split at a nipple hole. I have resorted to layering in a couple wraps of 12mm fiberglass tape over the holes and then wrapping the 25mm 8898 over it. Also the 8898 doesn't stick that well to itself so it would leak at the overlap back to the valve stem even though the overlap was 6 inches long. So I tape over the overlap with a couple inches of gorilla. Phew!! And the 8898 does not peel off in one piece, separating into fibers and leaving residue.
> 
> I guess the next is Tesa 4289 which everybody says is Stans but I will believe it when I see it. Or to Kapton. The search continues.


Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

hello. just been reading these threads. i'm about to tape up a HED big ride rim set.

interesting stuff. summary: adhesives tend to be acrylic or rubber based. then tape are various materials with various conformation properties and elongation. It seems the stronger adhesive tapes folk mention use acrylic based adhesives (im not sure what tyvek tape uses), tapes such as the tesa and stans seem to lack some stretch to me - they are polyporp - so might not be ideal over the exposed nipples of single wall rims such as the HEDS. the tesa 4288 and 4289 have a rubber adhesive.

the 3m 8898 is polyprop with a synthetic rubber resin adhesive. again, this might explain the reports of less adhesiveness. no idea what clear gorilla tape is.

3m 471 was mentioned: it is vinyl, conformable, but thin. it uses a rubber adhesive. i'm guessing it might deform around stuff well?

i was wonderign about using tape such as 3m 'scotchguard' tape&#8230;

product data here - http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...otection Film Pro Series_TDS_June 2014_R4.pdf

i suspect it might be a bit thin for just one layer (~ 0.2mm) but wondered if anyone had any experience of it? it seems like it would be like thin 'helicopter' tape. 3m 8671 seems to be the 'copter tape of choice&#8230;available in bike friendly widths and lengths. it is acrylic adhesive polyurethane tape, 0.36mm thick, puncture and abrasion resistant. (specs here =http://www.vikingindustrial.co.uk/pdf/8671hs.pdf)

different sizes: =http://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/c-169...rotective Tape for Bikes, Cars | Viking Tapes

there is also 3m 480 poly ethylene tape - very thin, but designed as a comforming protection tape - with an acryllic adhesive. dont know much about that stuff&#8230;

i've used helicopter tape on carbon components to prevent rub and it seems to adhere well.

ok: that was an hours reading on my behalf and i thought id distill my thoughts in case it helps anyone else. if i try with any of the thin plyurethane tapes ill let you know how it goes.

edit: just a wee bit more: from the tesa site about different adhesives&#8230;

Exploring Adhesives Used in PSA Tapes - The tesa Technology Journal - tesa tape North America


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

J.B. Weld said:


> Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!


Stans is a bit of a ripoff at the price charged for how much you get. I have a lot of bikes, a lot of wheels and I ride a lot so yes it would be worth it to find something that was more economical. Maybe during that process I might even find something better and could share that with the rest of you. If I don't then well I guess I will buck up like the rest and buy the Stans. In the meantime the process of discovery and curiosity is kind of fun. Don't get me started on sealant formulas


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

DennisF said:


> Sorry the 8898 didn't work out for you. Where did you get yours? It doesn't seem like the sort of thing someone would counterfeit. Is the inside of the spool printed with the Scotch logo & model#? As I recall mine came in a sealed wrapper.
> 
> If it's old I can see the glue losing adhesion. Maybe the plastic would get brittle over time.
> 
> Mine's still doing fine. I had the tire off to check the goo before a race, and the tape looked fine. I didn't go trying to peel it up tho .


I bought my 8898 tape last year from Amazon. I will have to look at the roll again and the logo. My 8898 certainly doesn't feel like or work like Stans. Close but not the same in my opinion.


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## TechniKal (Mar 18, 2004)

Snipe said:


> I bought my 8898 tape last year from Amazon. I will have to look at the roll again and the logo. My 8898 certainly doesn't feel like or work like Stans. Close but not the same in my opinion.


Same experience here. The 8898 tape is noticeably thinner than Stan's. I also find that it leaves more residue when removed. I use two layers since it's thin, and that often causes the top layer to shift around when changing tires. Overall, besides expense, Stan's has been better for me.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Hello, if I want to set up my new 30mm ID rims with kapton tape, do I use narrower (20mm) tape, or full width tape (30mm)? Does it matter? I'll be running specialized 2bliss ready tires.


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## classrc (Sep 18, 2011)

I'm about to tape up a set of DT BR710 rims for tubeless. I'll be using the DT rim strips, with two wraps of 2"-ish wide tape, overlapping in the middle, covering bead seat to bead seat.

Debating between Tyvek and clear Gorilla tape. 

The DT rim strip seems stronger/stiffer then Surly's plastic ones, and is a woven fabric molded in a plastic/rubber strip...

Thoughts?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I'll never again use tape that isn't residue free. Gorilla Tape was a huge pain to remove, and the clear repair tape was much worse.


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## dietz31684 (Mar 30, 2010)

How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

J.B. Weld said:


> Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!





Snipe said:


> Stans is a bit of a ripoff at the price charged for how much you get. I have a lot of bikes, a lot of wheels and I ride a lot so yes it would be worth it to find something that was more economical. Maybe during that process I might even find something better and could share that with the rest of you. If I don't then well I guess I will buck up like the rest and buy the Stans. In the meantime the process of discovery and curiosity is kind of fun. Don't get me started on sealant formulas


Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.

So, the quest is on to see is something is nearly as good at 1/4 the cost. Will the savings be enough to get you a new bike??? Ahhh, No. However, there's an odd satisfaction in finding the generic version of a product the bike industry charges a lot for.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

dietz31684 said:


> How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.


because we are still in search for:


tape that cost $1 a roll
is available at office Depot or home depot
weighs nearly nothing
goes on with minimal effort
sticks like metalized mylar tape until you want it off, then if comes off like painters tape
never splits or stretches once on, but is plyible (sp?) on install
is avail in 1mm width increments

When we have all that, I will make official request to the moderators to close this thread and make it a sticky.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

GuitsBoy said:


> I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.


I used the 8898 tape on my tubeless road rims. While it did work, it did move a bit and ruffle up in a few spots near the bead. I will probably replace it with something else when I have that wheel off again


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

ziscwg said:


> Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.


Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.


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## DennisF (Nov 4, 2011)

I am on my third taping in only a year.

My current set of wheels, purchased used, came with Stans. There were a few nicks thru the tape, but it wasn't an issue. However, it started leaking around a valve stem. I tried more goo, tightening the stem, etc. with no luck, so I retaped both wheels.

Then I boogered up an aluminum nipple, so had to replace tape on that wheel again.

I see what you are saying. It may not be worth the time you spend researching it, trimming it, etc. But, you really need to keep spare tape around, so you are at $20 now. I had fun doing it, and will now always have plenty of tape of whatever width I want on-hand. And no biggie if I mess up a taping job and have to start over.


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

I was having a lot of trouble setting my Sun Ringle Mulefut 50's up tubeless.
The Stans tape was installed by dealer and I couldn't get that to work. I then tried strapping tape and that didn't work. Then I went to the tried and true Gorilla and that didn't work.
I almost gave up and was so frustrated that within 7 attempts I couldn't get it to work.

Went to Home Depot with the intentions of buying Tyvek tape but four this for $7.49. Its weather seal tape from Frost King Frost King E/O 2 in. x 100 ft. Interior/Exterior Clear Plastic Weather Seal Tape-T96H - The Home Depot

Its stretchy and with two wraps I got them to seal up.


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## DennisF (Nov 4, 2011)

Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

Dennis, this was a 50mm wide rim so it was pretty close, but I trimmed with one of the cheap little retractable plastic knifes


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

DennisF said:


> Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?


Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.


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## DennisF (Nov 4, 2011)

Well, I cut the Stans-like strapping tape with a table saw by rolling it between the blade and fence and it did a perfect job (yes, I still have all my fingers  ) . 

But it was fairly hard and brittle. Not sure how it would do on a softer material like Vinyl.


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

Why not trim after you put it on?


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## happyriding (May 9, 2008)

> balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.


I have had all of the following problems with *Stan's yellow 25mm tape*:


The last roll of tape I bought had bubbling in the spool.
Sealant under the tape edges and ends (from a roll that did not exhibit bubbling).
Tires ripping the edges of the tape.


I've never tried any other tape.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

I bought a used pair of Sun Ringle Inferno 25s which had been set up tubeless with black Gorilla tape. There was a lot of Stanboogers all along the edge of the tape, which was slightly peeling back. One wheel/tire set up OK after I used a bit of soapy water on the bead. The other one was an absolute *****, and when I did get it to pressurize, I could see soapy bubbles at all of the nipples.

I depressurized, ripped the crappy Gorilla tape, picked as much of the Stanboogers out as I could, then put a double wrap of 1" blue 3m tape. The first wrap I started trimming a bit off the side of the tape so it wasn't wall to wall, but then got tired of doing that and just left it full width. Sealed up great then.


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## NEET (Jun 8, 2015)

Hi For those people that have used Gorilla tape on 29"er Rim, I just wanted to ask do you wrap the rim twice? Or just once will do.


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## hey_poolboy (Jul 16, 2012)

I use gorilla and have been rolling on one wrap for the last year or so.


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## Guest (Sep 18, 2015)

I ordered Nox rim tape in the width that fit my rims. It was easy, quick to install, works tits and cost about the same as a decent 6 pack. Although I may have paid $4 more than a comparable tape that I would have to source and cut, I think it was a good value.


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## Acme54321 (Oct 8, 2003)

I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVB835E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.


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## ttakata73 (Feb 9, 2012)

Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.

Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.

If you don't have rim cutouts, maybe you could just use this to seal the spokes.

If you do have rims with cutouts, this comes in spraycan form. So you can have a rim strip, masking tape off the edges of the rim, spray this stuff on, remove masking tape when wet, let dry, and you should have a totally sealed inner rim surface.

Gardner Bender Spray Liquid Tape in Black (6 oz./Can, 6 Cans/Master)-LTS-400 - The Home Depot

Http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-Black-LTB-400/100119178

Hopefully someone can proof this before I buy a fatbike.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Past couple wheels I taped were with housewrap tape. I put it on full width, really tight, then trimmed the excess with a razor. Super easy.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ttakata73 said:


> Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.
> 
> Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.
> 
> ...


That stuff wont work, its not designed to handle pressures. It will tear when u air up the tires not to mention that chemicals in sealant till like either eat at it or cause it to separate from the rim. I used to use the stuff on rc too and worked great against water but its tensile strength is very low.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

I used:
Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164' 
Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164' - Tuck Tape - Amazon.com

to tape up some 45mm internal carbon rims. It was tough to apply smoothly and had some wrinkles and bubbles in it. I did two wraps and had no issues with it sealing up. The width went right to the edge of the "hookless hooks" on both sides. No problems after a few rides.


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

J.B. Weld said:


> Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.


It will never last the life of the wheels and it is not perfect tape either. However, after trying a lot of different tapes I do find that Stans is the best of the bunch of the ones that I have used. Its only drawback is price and I'm willing to experiment a bit if I can make it a bit more economical and have some fun in the process. Maybe we find something that works better.


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

Acme54321 said:


> I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVB835E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
> 
> So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.


I would be curious to see how much residue is left when peeling it off. Thats been my main complaint about gorilla tape. Sometimes it almost seems to delaminate and leave the adhesive on the rim...messy. Let us know what its like.


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

ziscwg said:


> Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.


Olfa utility knife with a new blade. measured a line around and then cut to width. You can't cut the whole roll all the way through in one go but I would cut it deep enough to do a rim or two and then cut it again.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

I ordered the 3m 8896 24mm Blue tape to replace the factory *Easton? tape on my Easton Heist 24 wheelset. The factory tape lifted on the edges when I removed my WTB TrailBoss tires, and the factory overlap was also lifting. I used Stans sealant and these were the 1st tires installed on the wheelset. 

I live and ride in an incredibly rocky area so I go through a rear tire every 3 months (500ish miles) and a front every 6 months. 

I am new to tubeless (1st tire change ever) so I don't really know what the tape should look like, but having the edges pulling up doesn't seem like a good idea.

I bought the 3m tape because I plan on having to install new tape at each tire change and I'm a value oriented type guy. I hope I don't have to change it every time, but only time will tell..... I'll update this as the miles and tire changes go by.


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## yogidave (Aug 9, 2006)

I've been using gorilla tape with ghetto tubeless on miniature 29er non-tubeless rims (aka 26") and use 2x wraps to help make a snug fit at the bead. works very well.

several years and tires worth of experience in rocky CO mtns.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

TheUnknownRider said:


> 3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)


my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Probably not, pretty much the same thing with reinforcement filaments.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Snipe said:


> my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.


Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?


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## Snipe (Mar 6, 2005)

D Bone said:


> Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?


I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Snipe said:


> I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.


I used the blue 8896 on my Easton Heist24 wheels that have a pronounced center channel. I first did it like the videos show, where you pull the tape super tight and sort of "lay it in the rim" but after I was done, the tape was not stuck down to the center channel at all and was like a "trampoline".

So I removed the tape (it sure sticks to the aluminum well) and then I did it again, this time just pulling the tape snug, but making sure that I pressed it down firmly into the center channel as I went and it worked great.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

After trying other tapes, I just bit the bullet and bought a 60 yard roll of Stans. The time wasted messing with other tapes was killing me. My daughter took it to use when moving back to college

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

combfilter said:


> M
> 
> *electrical tape*:
> You can use it in a pinch, but it will eventually peel up.


not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise :???:

maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

TheUnknownRider said:


> not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise :???:
> 
> maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?


Electrical tape is crap for tubeless.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Seems like it wouldn't have enough sticktion, but I some people say they do it no problem.


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

Someone try this.

Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.

3M Scotch 1.88 in. x 60 yds. Heavy-Duty Red Poly Contractor Stucco Tape-3260-A - The Home Depot

looks light, tough, and designed to be easily removable. Needs to be cut.

I bought some but haven't needed to setup up any rims lately.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

duct tape? You try it and let us know.

$1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...

Price Point Mountain Rim Tape Red | Price Point

going to give it a shot


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

TheUnknownRider said:


> duct tape? You try it and let us know.
> 
> $1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...
> 
> ...


Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.

But like you said, You try it and let us know.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

GuitsBoy said:


> Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.
> 
> But like you said, You try it and let us know.


Yea, definitely not tubeless tape in any way.


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## TheUnknownRider (Oct 2, 2015)

Fortunately I noticed before buying any, butwas too busy to come back and say "DOH!!!" 

I bought a roll of 18mm Orange tubeless tape instead.


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## mcgurme (Apr 15, 2007)

Well, after reading this whole thread a few weeks ago, I decided to just go with the FattyStrippers because it sounded pretty painless, and I didn't want to mess around with the whole thing more than once.

The kit arrived last week, and went on my Mulefuts super easy, and sealed up right away. I bought the kit that included the 3M tape that's used as the "rim tape" to cover the spoke nipples and cutouts.

It's a bit more expensive than DIY tape, but there's no messing around wondering whether it will seal up. Mine sealed up with a floor pump 

I'm a FattyStripper convert. And no.. I don't work for them or know them - just really pleased at the results. They're super lightweight, too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times. 

I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.


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## Spectre (Jan 23, 2004)

zephxiii said:


> My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times.
> 
> I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.


Best would be 21mm Stans tape. I do like Orange Seal tape but it only comes in 18mm and 24mm widths which are too narrow and too wide respectively for Arch EX rims with a 21 inner width.


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## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

I just sealed up my Velocity Blunts with Gorilla Clear. Used a utility knife set on a piece of wood to get the tape cut to width, which was much more of a pain than I thought it would be as the blade would actually wander off the initial line. A bit more patience and care on my end next time would make it neater. Oh well, next time. Anyway, put 2 wraps on the rim and the tape is very easy to get down in the channel. The tape is very sticky, very stretchy and very clear, so any imperfections or bits of air and debris really show up. Put an On One Smorgasbord on and got it to seat and seal with my floor pump and no sealant. No air loss overnight, put a full load of Stans sealant in in the morning. So far, so good. The real test will be when I swap tires: Does the tape get torn up at the edges? Will the sealant and/or pressure have started to destroy the adhesive or structure of the tape? I'll report back.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

zephxiii said:


> I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.


Stan's recommends 25mm.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

Just to pile on I would stay away from the 3M 8898 tape. It does not stick well and the adhesive it leaves behind is a PITA to deal with. Any long term reports on the Tesa 4289 tape? Between my son and I we have a several bikes and swap out tires frequently.

Thanks


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## psychler (Jan 9, 2009)

I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

psychler said:


> I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.


Excellent.........THANKS


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I just use Stan's and in 10's of thousands of miles and many tire swaps and changes, I've yet to have to re-tape a wheel, even after 6 or 7 years. For $12 or so bucks, that's a bargain. 

Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.


Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

GTscoob said:


> Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.


I have four bikes and the wife has two. Disclaimer...she's running tubes.


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## NWRyder (Jul 28, 2012)

I found one argument against the "just use Stans tape" crowd.

I was setting up some Canfield AM wheels and the Stans tape did not stick to them at all. The tape is about a year old, but I think it was just the rims surface. They have a bead blast finish which the Stans just would not stick to. Fortunately I had seen this thread earlier, and I had a roll of the Gorilla clear, which I can bought to protect parts of my new frame, so used that. It worked great! 

I only used one layer though. Is that enough or do I risk it blowing out on a big hit?
I did not want it too thick as I was mounting super gravity tires which have insanely tight beads. I had actually tried to do them ghetto but put a hole in the tube as motorcycle levers were needed. I needed metal levers to mount them to my old specialized rims (stans copy I think), but with just a layer or Gorilla tape I would wrestle them on by hand with the Canfield rims. This has be a little worried as I have burped or blown off every lighter tubeless tire I have used before. I hope the super gravity bead will keep this from happening.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Just got a new set of ENVEs and tried to use Stans tape after prepping the rims. The tape would not stick. So I used gorilla tape. The bad thing about gorilla tape is that it doesn't play well with Stans sealant. It is a PITA to remove. The gorilla tape does leave a sticky residue post removal which the Stans tape will adhere to. I'm using Orange seal now so hopefully I won't be using profanity in the future when I have to remove the gorilla tape. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Junersun said:


> I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.


I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.


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## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Just answering NWRyders question.


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## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.


Other riders have reported that the Gorilla Clear at one layer thick blows out at relatively high tire pressures. I haven't heard exactly what pressures or under what riding conditions, but, that's what some have reported.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ I have a set DT Swiss rims set up as tubeless road wheels with Stan's tape that I'm running about 55 psi on and I've never experienced any issues. I have taken a look at the tape after a tire swap and didn't even see any tape deformity.


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

Stan's tape seems pretty tough against pressure...I mean the way the material seems to be.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


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## zephxiii (Aug 12, 2011)

My Stan's tape tape finally came in. 

I actually had my LBS tape my rim cuz I was impatient but it still leaked past the valve. 

So when I got my tape in I ripped the LBS tape (Stan's) off and redid it myself. 

Stan's says to start the tape across from the valve hole. That's also where the weld is which was a lil rough so I started it a few inches to the left of it. I also increased the overlap to about 5-6 inches from the 2 that it was before. 

****er held air perfectly as soon as I put some pressure in the tire \o/.

I do like the Stan's tape for its lightness. It also seems to leave minimal residue which is another bonus. 

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples. 

My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

watts888 said:


> I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples.
> 
> My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.


Derby only recommends an 18mm width. His rims have a channel though. I believe going wall to wall on rims with hookless beads is unnecessary?


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

Loch said:


> Someone try this.
> 
> Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.
> 
> ...


I taped up a wheel with this the other day.

I often need tape that is wider then standard 25mm stan's tape, and the 28mm stan's is expensive and harder to find. So I'm always looking for a good tape that will work.

I used one layer of the stucco tape. I cut it to the correct width buy carefully wrapping the rim with the full width tape, then cutting the tape on the outside of the rim with a razor blade. I then wrapped the cut tape back around the spool and then applied it to the rim.

It went on great and stuck very well (aluminum WTB KOM i23).

One layer was not enough, air pressure caused the tape to burst at a spoke hole. Several spoke holes were double wrapped at the overlap, and they looked great.

2 layers should work fine with this tape.

I have added another layer and so far it is holding up great.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I think the trick with Stan's tape is to wrap it twice and take your time. The only issue I have seen is buggering it up when using a tire lever or when the rim wasn't prep'd well and it slid over time exposing the nipple holes. Like someone above, its not very much $$ for a one-time job. Gorilla tape is heavier and leaves a nasty residue which arguably....who cares b/c why would you ever take it off?

Edit. I just had an issue with Stan's tape on my CX bike. Scrapped it and went with the 1" Gorilla...honestly, its much better tape for this use as it doesn't slide around and is WAY cheaper.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape, not the one mentioned by OP, but some kind of Gorilla's tape clone. It was not perfect but worked ok.
A friend had a wheelset with Stan's, but when he broke a spoke we had to remove the tape, and for our admiration the tape had started to peel of just after 3 months.
So no, Stan's do not justifie the extra $$$, its the other way around.
By my experience and with the reports complaining about Stan's products in this forum, it seems Stan's is getting way to greed and is cutting in the product's quality.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The little bit of gorilla tape glue that was at the edge caught my tire as I was breaking the bead and it pulled up the tape some. I hadn't even stuck in a tire level. Only reason I'm looking for something a bit more permanent. 

Has anybody tried prepping the spoke holes so they're not as sharp at the edges? I know there are metal de-burring tools that people use to smooth out the rough edges on drilled fatbike rims. Possibly use a larger drill bit to very lightly angle the edge of the spoke hole?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Aglo said:


> I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape,


What Tesa tape are you using?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Cleared2land said:


> What Tesa tape are you using?


I'm not using it anymore, I got fed up with rim tapes and ordered some carbon rims without spoke holes in the rim bed, so no more tape for me .
But the tape I used was black in the side without glue and white in the glue side, and together with the glue was a nylon net that give extra support in the spoke holes.
Sorry but I don't recall the number, I can check it later if you really want. But as I mentioned, it was not perfect. But I paid 4.95€ for 25m.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Ok, I searched the online store were bought it, and the reference is 56348-00001 and it 50m instead of 25m.
I used to tape up the walls, and wall to wall. The only problem I encountered is the same as the Stan's, the tape start to peel after some time, but without the same price tag as Stan's.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

fwiw, im using 3M 764 vinyl tape, and have been for months on several bikes in a mix of hot dry and cold wet weather with zero issues. it is thin and light so does not help seal gaps if you have a tyre/rim interface issue.
3M 764 General Purpose Vinyl Marking Tape 50mm x 33m From Viking Tapes
it is cheap, stretchy, one layer works well for tubeless and it removes without residue. i have used 2 layers on a broken rim i didnt want to set up tubeless for several months that is single wall with a tube and no puncture due to abrasion through tape. i have set wheels up by inflating a tube to bed the tape and also without this step, no probs either way.
NB: i only use conti revo sealant now a days which is non ammonia based, dunno if this would make a difference and i have only used it on carbon rims.
it is also easily cut so trimming it to fit a different rim is easy too. that's my epxerience anyway!


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## Maxis (Jan 29, 2016)

I will use for the first time Gorilla Clear tape on Hope Tech Enduro Rims 27.5, how many layers recommend? two layers is enough?


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## Xorrox (Oct 30, 2015)

combfilter said:


> My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions.
> ......
> updated 8/19/14:
> *Tyvek Home Wrap Tape/Sheathing Tape/aka seam tape:*
> This has become my 2nd favorite tape so far. I still say if you want bomb proof go with the gorilla clear and you have aluminum rims. However, if you have carbon or are scared to use gcrt on your rims for fear of it becoming permanent then this should be your next tape. I am pretty sure this is what velocity velotape is. It's basically strapping tape that is more stretchy so it's easier to pull tight and get to lay all the way down. Great stuff and peels back up fairly descent if you need to redo the tire for any reason. I did 2 layers around a 29" rim and the weight came to 9g.


Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape? 
How well does it stick to carbon rims? 
Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?

So many questions


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

TiGeo said:


> Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Because it is permeable to gasses and leaves gummy crap all over your rims that is a huge pain to remove.
ENVE probably slapped more than a few foreheads over that spec.


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## Guest (Feb 11, 2016)

TiGeo said:


> Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


For similar reasons you wouldn't paint your nice car with a brush.... 
..unless you're a hack.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

TiGeo said:


> I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Because it will budge and form ridges.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.


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## Xorrox (Oct 30, 2015)

TiGeo said:


> Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


What the others said plus heavy and thick.

Soooo.... to repeat myself:
Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape? 
How well does it stick to carbon rims? 
Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?​


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

TiGeo said:


> ^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.


I've never taped my own rims with Gorilla tape, but I reckon that both Mikesee and my friend who owns my LBS have their taping technique down. The tightness of the rim/bead interface and tire mounting/removal technique might play a role too, but in my experience, Gorilla isn't bulletproof, and is a real pain to clean up after. Stan's has been easier all around IME.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Are you talking about the black gorilla tape, or the gorilla clear? I've used black gorilla tape in the past, and I will admit, it is a pain to get all the goo off, and if you only do a single wrap, there's a possibility it will leak. On a single layer of gorilla over a cheap rubber rim strip, I had that setup for about 1 1/2 years without any trouble. Tire wore out so I had to redo the setup. It was actually easy to remove most of the old gorilla tape because I used a rim strip.

I've just done a double wrap with the gorilla clear, and it's looking good so far. Unfortunately, haven't had any ride time on it, but it looks good.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I was referring to the black, but I have tried the clear repair tape after reading this thread. It also moved on me and the cleanup was even worse. Part of my issue is that I'm taping a Stan's FR rim, which has a really tight BSD.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

I will have to check out the clear Gorilla...but I don't think my single wrap with the black will ever be an issue.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Cleared2land said:


> All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.


That was my question to those that were concerned with the residue from black Gorilla tape. I have never had to re-wrap it. I have had to re-wrap several wheels with Stan's tape but that was likely due to a poor job taping them or rims with a tight bead-on-tape-fit so that when you peel off the tire the sealant and/or lever pulled it up.


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## snipes287 (Mar 7, 2004)

I think 90% of this comes down to the lack of knowledge on how to tape properly specially from the people that say their tape doesn't stick, shifts or sealant penetration. All tape will stick well if you do this properly. Three VERY important steps to this.

1) Spray some BRAKE CLEANER (from automotive store or if you use a bike product Finish Line Speed degreaser is the better of them) into a clean rag and clean inside of rims really well. Brake cleaner and the finish line spray do not leave a residue and this is extremely important. Now use rubbing or denatured alchohol on a NEW rag to finish cleaning the rim. Make sure to get every spec of dirt/sealant that you can see. The more time you spend cleaning the better off you will be. Once cleaned don't touch any part of the inside of the rim. This is all pretty commonsense, now for the piece de resistance!

2)WARM THE RIM UP! :madmax: In the 17 years ive been a wrench i can tell you this is the most important step with ANY adhesive based liner, tubeless or tubed. You can use a heat gun, blow dryer or blowtorch (not carbon) to warm the rim up. Your not making the rim hot only warming it enough to not be cold. This allows the adhesive from the tape to soften, adhere much better and spread more evenly leaving no channels for the sealant to get under. (not responsible for you de tempering your rim or damaging your rim)

3) when you cut the tape don't cut it straight across "---" it needs to be cut at a diagonal "/". It has much higher sheering strength this way. On a side note if you have a road bike and the tape securing your bar tape keeps coming a little undone cut it at a diagonal and your problem will be solved.

Ive used a TON of different tapes in my days and VERY rarely have any problems with any of them shifting, or not adhering or sealant migrating under the tape or whatever else everyone is having problems with. Ive literally done hundreds and hundreds of conversions and maybe 1% of them have had a problem.

Hope this helps ya'll and i promise it will make your lives easier. :thumbsup:


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## Xorrox (Oct 30, 2015)

Some good advice here. 

I have only been riding on my wheels tubeless for a couple weeks but it looks like all the gorilla tape supporters are on to something: super cheap and easily available, easy to cut and work with. I wasted my money trying TYVEK tape but it was super hard to cut and work with and kept ripping. 

In frustration I reached for a roll of gorilla tape I had lying around. I ended up going with 1 wrap gorilla tape cut 18 mm wide to just fit in the dip in the middle of the rim because the rim already seamed tight enough. Stan's long 'road' valves for my relatively deep LB 30mm inner rims, Stan's sealant. Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35" front and Nobby Nic 2.35" rear (Evo snakeskin Pacestar).

Worked well so far. Took the bead on the front a while to seal completely but it's fine now. Also the rear valve leaked at the rim until I tighten it down really tight.

Running 23.5 psi front and 27 psi rear, no burping and only the very odd light rim strike. Riding weight around 230 lbs. No more pinch flats!!


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I haven't used 8898, but the 8896 seems to be slightly pliable, and even stretches at spoke holes over time. Ive found that kapton / polyimide tape is less flexible, at least at the bigger widths.


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## jobo_ph (Oct 13, 2015)

Sasquatch1413 said:


> Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.


I have used WTB tape on all my tubeless conversions on my bike. Happy and no problems with it, so far, even when doing tire changes or momentarily using tubes.

I like WTB tape because they come in a lot of widths and stick well enough... I have three wheelsets for my Trance: One has Spank Race28 Evo rims (XC/Workout Duties), the next one are WTB KOM i25 rims (XC racing duties), the 3rd one is Dabomb Advance rims (Enduro/DH duties).

I do make sure the rim is clean and wiped with alcohol, then after taping properly, I let it sit inflated with a tube for a day before finally making it tubeless.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Xorrox said:


> What the others said plus heavy and thick.
> 
> Soooo.... to repeat myself:
> Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
> ...


Sorry Just now coming back to this thread.

My Tyvek on my Enve carbon rims is still solid. I had what later turned out to be a bad valve that caused me to want to re-tape the rear rim. The tyvek did not leave residue, but it did like break and rip in certain areas when removing it. I had to get my gf to use her fingernails and get the left over broken pieces off. Took her about 10min. I never had a blow out issue with it, and really it's a good tape. Just sucks you have to cut it down to size.

Lately i've been just using the 
Maxi 248 Polyester/Silicone Single Coated Splicing Tape, 3.3 mil Thick, 72 yds Length, 1" Width, Green

It's good/cheap doesn't leave residue and seems to stick pretty good.

As far as people having issues with tape process or whatever, trust me I am taping things right. You can go on and on about "just go gorilla 1" black tape and be done, and if you do it right you will never have to take it off". 1st. I change tires depending on where I am racing. So I go from large volume low knob to less volume and high knob for mud shedding. Literally I switch tires all the time. I don't care how good you are at putting on tape, when you switch tires as much as most XC or Enduro riders you are going to have some tape peel up on you. Gorilla black tape is also prone to this. Once you have to redo gorilla black tape, if you want a good bond guess what you have to do? Make sure you have a nice clean rim surface to adhere it to. Guess what? it's a ***** to do that when you have left over gorilla residue on there. Beyond that it's about 100g heavier than most tapes I use. Weight Weenie? Yes.

I need to update the original post with the other tapes. I'd still love to find out what tape that velocity uses. It's awesome. It's like stretchy so it sits down in the bead channel really well. It also sticks well.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

I went with Kapton tape on my Spank rims since I knew there was no way in hell Stan's tape was going to conform & stick to the funky rim profile on those things. Kapton tape is thinner and has just enough stretch in it to follow the wavy rim bed on the Spanks. Mounted a set of UST tires on them with a bit of sealant and it aired up easily and has held air very well. It was about the easiest tubeless setup I've ever done.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

*Help!*

I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum

Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
So I'm hoping, given the collective knowledge in this group, that someone has experienced what I'm talking about and has a viable solution that has worked and doesn't require me to sit for days trying to scrap off all the crap glue currently on my rims.
Final thought, ...if I had known this would be the result of Gorilla Tape I would have never agreed to temporarily putting it on just for the sake of testing the bike build.

Hoping you can help, thanks in advance
J


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

crankarms said:


> I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum
> 
> Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
> In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
> ...


this is my post here regarding stuff I used (I now have Mavic Crossmax Enduro wheels that have spokes out of the rims, so no need for tape).

Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com

Tesa 4289 comes in 19 and 25mm width - actually - it's the same tape Stan's use - but you get 60+ meters of it in a roll, not just couple of meters Stan's offer.
I've been using it with no problems whatsoever. never had those gunks you experienced.

good luck


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

Thanks for your response ashas,

I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?


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## ashas (Jan 22, 2009)

crankarms said:


> Thanks for your response ashas,
> 
> I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?


oh, ok.
don't know how to get rid of it. just wanted to point to you towards the tape that does not produce gunk.

have you tried with the dishwasher sponge? they have that harder sponge on one side. maybe that will help.

good luck


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## bruto (Nov 23, 2014)

Have you tried acetone?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Gorilla tape seems to work pretty well until you want to remove it. I can't help with the adhesive removal. As said above, acetone might work. Maybe you should have left it on.

I have used Stan's for many years and been very happy. Easy to remove.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

Thanks guys. 
I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.

As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.

Thanks.

Again anyone with first hand experience with a similar situation, your advice would be most welcome... looking at how to get this mess cleaned up so I can use the Stan's kit.

Cheers


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

x2 for acetone (or fingernail polish remover).


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Others have mentioned it, but I use Kapton tape on mtb and road setups up to 100 psi. Sticks great, easily conforms to the rim profile, and leaves no adhesive residue when removed. I've even poke a hole in it to access a nipple and replace a spoke then patched the hole with a short piece of tape.


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## mtmiller (Nov 1, 2006)

crankarms said:


> Thanks guys.
> I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.
> 
> As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.
> ...


Acetone will work.

That said, there's sort of a hierarchy of solvents I use if damaging a finish is a concern. It's mostly based on what I have laying around. I usually start with Windex, then move to WD40, then alcohol, then mineral spirits / paint thinner, then acetone. Acetone pretty much never fails.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

mtmiller said:


> Acetone will work.
> 
> That said, there's sort of a hierarchy of solvents I use if damaging a finish is a concern. It's mostly based on what I have laying around. I usually start with Windex, then move to WD40, then alcohol, then mineral spirits / paint thinner, then acetone. Acetone pretty much never fails.


Thanks all for your help, it was much appreciated. I want to give a little update just in case somebody else comes along and finds they've ended up in same situation (and don't have clue as to what to do)....

I went at one of the rims tonight with some Goo Gone and a scotch pad?. At first I was a little discouraged, however when I rubbed it on liberally and gave it a little time to work, I started to make some headway. I gave up on the scotch pad and tried some other utensils to see what would work best. What seemed to work was a couple of rags, one dry and one damp with Goo Gone, a good size tire lever and one of those little hard thin squares of plastic people use to scrape stoneware (cooking) since you can't clean it with soap. 
Sometimes I wrapped the edge of the scraper or tire lever in one of the rags to get at those tight spots and some times I used them directly on the rim.
I also worked on areas for a while and then moved on and came back around to that same area again. This gave the Goo a little more time to work in. Anyway I kept going around and around adding Goo and scraping, rubbing and cleaning. I'm happy to say the rim looks pretty good. Hopefully I can setup for tubeless.
Hope that helps.

I have a follow-up question for readers. I'm going to go at the other rim tomorrow night. I haven't attempted to remove the Gorilla tape yet so I'm wondering ...does it make sense to try heating the tape with a hair dryer while I'm taking it off. Would that make it easier to remove and hopefully reduce the amount of residue that gets left behind?

All views welcomed.
Thanks
J


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I can't speak for Gorilla tape adhesive residue removal, but heat is frequently used to facilitate various film removals, I would think it could help. It didn't sound fun on the previous attempt.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Went tubeless for about 8 months and 3 tire changes, and went back to tubes.

The first tire change (WTB TrailBoss TCS) stuck to the factory Easton tape on my Easton Heist wheelset and pulled it up upon dismount, so I retaped with blue 3M, but at least there was no sticky residue to clean from the factory tape.

Then the second tires (Specialized Ground Control Grid) stuck to the blue tape and pulled it up on dismount requiring a retape after 30 minutes removing the sticky 3M residue.

I mounted WTB Vigilante TCS and after their life was over, you guessed it, they stuck to the tape requiring another residue removal.

That was the final straw. The pros do not outweigh the cons for me, as I don't like the flat tire feeling that running tires well below their optimal PSI offers, so I actually run the same PSI tubed or tubeless (28/33).

I also use Stans in my tubes so small punctures are not a problem for me............... I actually had more issues on the trail running tubeless than I ever had tubed.

Just my experience, and .02


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ No doubt that everyone might experience different issues with whatever they choose to do. This is D Bone's experience and that's too bad it didn't work as planned for him. I have never experienced any tape issues that D Bone did on any of my wheel-sets. I have one set of wheels with the original Stan's tape that is more than 6 years old, has experienced dozens and dozens of tire swaps and well over 10,000 miles. The tape remains as it did when new. Perhaps this is just luck, but it seems to be the case across all of my wheels.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> I can't speak for Gorilla tape adhesive residue removal, but heat is frequently used to facilitate various film removals, I would think it could help. It didn't sound fun on the previous attempt.


Thanks C2L, I'll give it a try.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

crankarms said:


> Thanks C2L, I'll give it a try.


I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.

After messing with Gorilla tape, Tyvex, and strapping tape and adhesive removal I looked at the time I spent. It's much less expensive to buy the big roll of Stans and reapply if the tape starts to pull up when I switch tires which it usually doesn't.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

DrDon said:


> I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.
> 
> After messing with Gorilla tape, Tyvex, and strapping tape and adhesive removal I looked at the time I spent. It's much less expensive to buy the big roll of Stans and reapply if the tape starts to pull up when I switch tires which it usually doesn't.


Not Carbon. 
And yes exactly, if you see my previous post this was just supposed to be a temp exercise to test the bike set up while I was waiting for my stans kit to arrive. Lesson learned, never again.
I too have used stans in the past with my 26er (4+ years) with the same strip... never an issue

Thanks


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

crankarms said:


> Not Carbon.
> And yes exactly, if you see my previous post this was just supposed to be a temp exercise to test the bike set up while I was waiting for my stans kit to arrive. Lesson learned, never again.
> I too have used stans in the past with my 26er (4+ years) with the same strip... never an issue
> 
> Thanks


You're smarter than me. It took me three times removing that crap from my carbon rims before I learned. So much profanity........


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

DrDon said:


> I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.


Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.

However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.


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## deepakvrao (Mar 5, 2009)

Deleted


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## deepakvrao (Mar 5, 2009)

snipes287 said:


> I think 90% of this comes down to the lack of knowledge on how to tape properly specially from the people that say their tape doesn't stick, shifts or sealant penetration. All tape will stick well if you do this properly. Three VERY important steps to this.
> 
> 1) Spray some BRAKE CLEANER (from automotive store or if you use a bike product Finish Line Speed degreaser is the better of them) into a clean rag and clean inside of rims really well. Brake cleaner and the finish line spray do not leave a residue and this is extremely important. Now use rubbing or denatured alchohol on a NEW rag to finish cleaning the rim. Make sure to get every spec of dirt/sealant that you can see. The more time you spend cleaning the better off you will be. Once cleaned don't touch any part of the inside of the rim. This is all pretty commonsense, now for the piece de resistance!
> 
> ...


Thanks


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.
> 
> However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.


It seems you're more knowledgeable regarding this than I am. Although it's not rocket science use of a heat gun requires a certain amount of skill.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

crankarms said:


> Thanks guys.
> I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.
> 
> As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.
> ...


I've used WD40. It's a great sticky/gooey remover. Kerosene works great too. I've personally used both. I follow up with acetone to clean the surface prior to putting down my new tape (I've been using Kapton tape for some time now). Much lighter and works great!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Cleared2land said:


> Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.
> 
> However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.





DrDon said:


> It seems you're more knowledgeable regarding this than I am. Although it's not rocket science use of a heat gun requires a certain amount of skill.


I agree... you could be correct with using a heat gun, but I think the OP spoke of using a hair dryer. I don't think that would present any problems.


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## crankarms (Nov 13, 2011)

A quick update...

I went at the second rim tonight and as stated earlier I used a hair dryer to heat up the Gorilla tape as I was taking it off. 

I took it off in sections. I preheated a section I was going to remove and then begin peeling it off, heating the underside as I pulled back on the tape (as opposed to just pulling straight up).
Huge, huge difference compared to the rim I did without heat last night. When I was done this one had a fraction of the gunk in comparison to the other one. Used some Goo Gone, and I was done in about 20 mins. Thanks again to all who offered advise.

Hope this post finds the next poor soul who ends up having a similar tape experience.
J


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Cool. I learned something. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

Have a set of Canfield Brothers 29er wheels for a new bike build. Used 1" Gorilla Tape from Home Depot. I started the tape at the 3rd spoke hole from the valve stem hole, wrapped the rim once, then overlapped to the 3rd spoke hole on the other side of the valve stem hole. Using Stans 35mm "Universal" valve stems. Also running Maxxis TR tires (Ardent 2.4 / Ardent 2.25). Will air them up tonight with Stans sealant and post a follow up.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

gmats said:


> I've used WD40. It's a great sticky/gooey remover. Kerosene works great too...I follow up with acetone to clean the surface ...


OMS is WD40 without the light lube and kerosene with without the obscene smell. For ultimate cleanup afterwards, use lacquer thinner.

Actually, the lightweight lube in WD40 helps with goo removal as it doesn't evaporate but it will interfere with the adhesion of subsequent rim tape.

Gorilla tape is thick, heavy and messy; a ******* solution of if there ever was one. Kapton tape is thin, extremely lightweight, and leaves no adhesive residue; a much more sophisticated and erudite solution.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Will maybe look into this Kapton tape you speak of.

Black Gorilla tape is still my favorite. Peeling and shifting is remedied by being sure to use the proper width. No issues with my home brew sealant. The left over gum is not that big a deal. I use my thumbs and some old fashioned elbow grease to work it off on the rare occasion I need to retape.

Stan's does not stick well to carbon nor does it conform well to rims with a deep center channel.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

1" Gorilla Tape, wrapped once (overlap @ valve stem). Tires aired up @ 30psi and beads seated properly. Maxis Arrrrrrrrrrrrrdent TR tires (2 4 / 2.25). So far so good. Trying to finish up my bike build tonight.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

rockman said:


> Derby only recommends an 18mm width. His rims have a channel though. I believe going wall to wall on rims with hookless beads is unnecessary?


That's the way Ray explained it too me. I'm replacing my Orange tape after +2 hard years on my wheels. I have 29'er rims that are 29 inner width. Wheel builders put the Orange tape on that were deliver with the rims. It was the 18mm flavor. Only trouble area developed after roughly putting an emergency tube in on a back country ride. Caused minor scooching of the tape and eventually exposed one of the spoke holes. I am a clyde and have been running 29-35 PSI in my rear tire. One wrap of the orange tape has seemed to hold up pretty well. I think Derby is also correct in recommending the 18mm width for his rims. Creates a better seal between just the rubber and CF without the edge of the tape to consider. Also makes it much easier to take tires on and off.
I do appreciate the extra tip of warming up the rim prior to install. Makes sense.

Cheers,
Mike


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I've been having problems with my gorilla clear tape tubeless setup. Took the tire off and cleaned the rim. The tape around some of the spoke holes did this funky fold thing where the tape was in excess so much that it raised up and formed a ridge. I've seen tape pull away before or create a channel under it, but never create a ridge. When I put the tape on, it was pulled tight. Before setting it up tubeless, I put in a tube and kept it pressurized at 45 psi for a week. Everything looked good, flat, and sealed then. I've re-taped the rim and I'm letting it sit with a tube in it now. I guess I'll see how it does.


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## deepakvrao (Mar 5, 2009)

Lone Rager said:


> Others have mentioned it, but I use Kapton tape on mtb and road setups up to 100 psi. Sticks great, easily conforms to the rim profile, and leaves no adhesive residue when removed. I've even poke a hole in it to access a nipple and replace a spoke then patched the hole with a short piece of tape.


Had hell with Kapton tape for my rear wheels. The rims are offset, so the nipple holes are too. The Kapton would just roll a little when the tyres were mounted, and then there would be exposed edges of the holes. Worked fine for the front. Velo tape solved the issue.

Now, I've ordered the 66 meter Stans tape.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

FYI

All you folks cleaning your rims with (insert name here, wd40,goo gone, acetone, etc) make sure you 100% you get all of that cleaned out. What will happen with things like goo gone is that you will put it on a rag on directly on the residue in the rim and rub it off..While you are doing this goo gone travels down slightly into the nipple holes and sits there. You will retape over the leftover goo gone that's in the nipple hole and then a few weeks later wonder why your tape is coming up around the nipple holes. That's why.. That goo gone leaks back down onto it. Acetone wont do this but googone/wd40 will. So if you use those to clean residue, makes sure to wash the rim with soap and water and let it fully dry. Or just don't use gorilla tape (black) and you wont have to clean that stuff out.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Just got done screwing with that garbage Stan's tape on Easton ARC 27 rims. The tape is a too stiff and simply doesn't stick. What a waste. It's odd bc the Stan's tape worked liked a charm on my other set of Flow EX rims. Time to get some Gorilla Tape at the hardware store.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

VTSession said:


> Just got done screwing with that garbage Stan's tape on Easton ARC 27 rims. The tape is a too stiff and simply doesn't stick. What a waste. It's odd bc the Stan's tape worked liked a charm on my other set of Flow EX rims. Time to get some Gorilla Tape at the hardware store.


Rim prep is your problem, not the tape. 
Gorilla is crap, but it will probably mask your poor prep problem.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I can't say an thing about the Easton wheels, but I've done plenty of tape jobs, all with Stan's and I've never experieneed any problems.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

meltingfeather said:


> Rim prep is your problem, not the tape.
> Gorilla is crap, but it will probably mask your poor prep problem.


So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.


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## EddieSmirckx (Jan 5, 2016)

VTSession said:


> So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.


Rubbing alcohol is what I use, too. It's cheap, readily available, works fine, evaporates completely with no residue, and it's safe for carbon rims. Why use anything else?


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

combfilter said:


> FYI
> 
> All you folks cleaning your rims with (insert name here, wd40,goo gone, acetone, etc) make sure you 100% you get all of that cleaned out. What will happen with things like goo gone is that you will put it on a rag on directly on the residue in the rim and rub it off..While you are doing this goo gone travels down slightly into the nipple holes and sits there. You will retape over the leftover goo gone that's in the nipple hole and then a few weeks later wonder why your tape is coming up around the nipple holes. That's why.. That goo gone leaks back down onto it. Acetone wont do this but googone/wd40 will. So if you use those to clean residue, makes sure to wash the rim with soap and water and let it fully dry. Or just don't use gorilla tape (black) and you wont have to clean that stuff out.


Absolutely. That's a great point. And Remember, it's clean but the original Stans set up years ago had us sanding the inside of the rim to make sure it was absolutely clean. This still pertains. The tape has to have an extremely clean surface to stick to and any solvent inside of the spoke holes or in the rim will only desolve the tape's glue.


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## meltingfeather (May 3, 2007)

VTSession said:


> So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.


Dood, calm down. I don't know anything about you.
What I do know is that if Stan's tape doesn't stick it's due to surface prep. It's not rocket science. You might watch the rim prep videos Stan has made. Calling it garbage is pretty shortsighted.


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## Skelldify (May 10, 2013)

No one has mentioned regular old duct tape. I used some last night cuz I didn't feel like going to the bike shop. 

I'm guessing this was a bad idea since no one has mentioned it yet. Please let me know why so others can learn.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ You be aware of why it's not the preferred tape come time for removal. Perhaps I can see using it as an emergency situation where you wanna ride and nothing else is around...maybe. There are usually plenty of better readily available alternatives.


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## EddieSmirckx (Jan 5, 2016)

Skelldify said:


> No one has mentioned regular old duct tape. I used some last night cuz I didn't feel like going to the bike shop.
> 
> I'm guessing this was a bad idea since no one has mentioned it yet. Please let me know why so others can learn.


If duct tape is working for ya, don't worry about what anyone else says. This place is Trollsville sometimes. For every strongly held opinion you'll find an equally passionate opposite. At the end of the day it's just tape. Just about any kind that is sticky on one side will work if you're careful about it. This ain't like curing cancer or putting people on the moon...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

IMO it depends on the type of duct tape. If you're talking about a cheap silver backed duct tape from the dollar store, you're going to have problems. It'll stick and make a mess, but the silver backing is insanely thin and will peel away. A good quality duct tape, similar to gorilla tape, should be fine.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I bought a couple of rolls of this. Doesn't stretch and is not super adhesive but sticks well enough and leaves no residue. I'll see about durability...
It is very light though

30mm Width x 30M Length Heat High Temperature Resistant Adhesive Tape Brown | eBay


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^ hard to tell by the pix and the description but that looks like Kapton tape, which is what I use. It's a transparent amber color. 1 mil thick with a couple of mils of adhesive. It's very tough and has enough stretch to conform the the shape of the rim bed.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I was trying to find Kapton and my search led me to this Chinese tape. Could be the same. It does conform the the rim ok. I'm hoping the weight savings over Gorilla tape will transfer into much faster climbing


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Free shipping from China!


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Looks for "polyamide" tape. Kapton is the brand name.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^yeah. That's why it's capitalized...like Teflon, Delrin, Lexan, Lycra, Spandex, etc...


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Travis Bickle said:


> I was trying to find Kapton and my search led me to this Chinese tape. Could be the same. It does conform the the rim ok. I'm hoping the weight savings over Gorilla tape will transfer into much faster climbing


Found this Kapton tape in Canada. Big jump from 10mm to 100mm though. Or this from Amazon. Much better pricing than the 60M of Stan's Tape on Amazon that was $50+$50 for shipping to Canada.:madman:

Went to the LBS today and dropped $20 on 9M of Stan's Tape today. I've been on Gorilla Tape for a few years. Yesterday was the tipping point for GT. A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/ 
Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.

I'm unsure to why I had the valve leakage. The Stan's valve doesn't appear to be damaged in anyway. Likely will install a new valve stem when I do the Stan's Tape to rule out the valve. Reusing a Stan's Valve hasn't given myself grief before now. Do people put a dab of silicon around the valve stem before installation to prevent leakage? Other than that I may've put too large of a hole in the Gorilla Tape...


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

PUNKY said:


> Found this Kapton tape in Canada. Big jump from 10mm to 100mm though. Or this from Amazon. Much better pricing than the 60M of Stan's Tape on Amazon that was $50+$50 for shipping to Canada.:madman:
> 
> Went to the LBS today and dropped $20 on 9M of Stan's Tape today. I've been on Gorilla Tape for a few years. Yesterday was the tipping point for GT. A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/
> Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.
> ...


Ran into the same problem recently with Gorilla tape, two times using the 1" wide tape and a third using the 2" wide cut to fit just inside the bead seat. All leaked at the valve for me as well and that is with Stans Universal valves and a DT Swiss tubeless valve on WTB i29 rims which are tubeless.

Conclusion is have come to is they NEED the tubeless tape now as Gorilla has changed something that no longer works well with our tubeless setups. I have yet to try my WTB 34mm wide tape for the i29 as recommended by WTB as I broke my leg after last swap to a tube when the tubeless wouldn't setup.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

gregnash said:


> Ran into the same problem recently with Gorilla tape, two times using the 1" wide tape and a third using the 2" wide cut to fit just inside the bead seat. All leaked at the valve for me as well and that is with Stans Universal valves and a DT Swiss tubeless valve on WTB i29 rims which are tubeless.
> 
> Conclusion is have come to is they NEED the tubeless tape now as Gorilla has changed something that no longer works well with our tubeless setups. I have yet to try my WTB 34mm wide tape for the i29 as recommended by WTB as I broke my leg after last swap to a tube when the tubeless wouldn't setup.


I'm firmly entrenched with the anti-Gorilla Tape camp as of today.

Installed one wrap + a bit of Stan's Tape and a fresh 44mm valve stem. Installed the tire with my hands (previously needed tire levers with this rim/tire combo.) Inflated and seated the bead with a floor pump, as I have done in the past. I'm somewhat disappointed that I didn't try the previous valve stem, but I was frustrated with the lack of riding time as of late. The two variables aside, I'm just happy the tire installation was relatively easy. No tire levers or hand injuries!


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I have been using 1" Gorilla tape on my rims lately and I want to try something better. Looking at Kapton tape hoping that I can buy one width that will work on several rims: what width? I have a KOM i25 rim on my front mtb, Stans Arch EX rear, and DT swiss x430s (18.4mm ID) on my CX bike with a tubeless kludge. I can get 30mm Kapton tape, but will that be useless on the CX wheels? Can I install it and cut away the excess, of is that prohibitively cumbersome to do?


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

20mm Kapton tape will work fine, it's what I use on my rims which are 21-25mm internal width. I go with 2 full layers on the rims since I don't quite trust a single layer, on the wider rims you can offset the first wrap to one side and the 2nd layer to the other, such that the entire rim bed is covered and the nipple holes have a double layer on them all the way around. I didn't bother to do the offset wrap on my 25mm rim and it still works fine, but Spank Industries (the makers of my rims) recommends the offset wrap method.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

maybe I missed something, but how does Kapton tape work? I just got some, stretched a double layer on my rim, then went to poke a hole for the valve and the tape split in half and started falling off the rim. I tried it again, same thing. how do you get a hole in Kapton take without it falling apart?


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

It wouldn't use kapton tape. I'd use tyvek tape before kapton. You also don't want to trim the tape on the rim that's a bad idea. Make a cutter to trim it on the roll. Gorilla tape is ok if you need to tighten up the rim to tire bead bottom seal. The only time I had to do that was mounting my non TR 120 tpi Kard's on my Dually rims. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I am asking all the people who have apparently used Kapton tape with success.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

mack_turtle said:


> I am asking all the people who have apparently used Kapton tape with success.


I have used Kapton tape with success. Not sure why yours split. Maybe you stretched it too tight (which i would think is damn impossible to do, but maybe you are Hulk).

Also, not sure why the dude above said not to cut it while on the rim. I've done that with tyvek, kapton, and that green amazon stuff all the time. Typically the tape I use is a little wider than my inner rim width. So I will lay down layer 1 and then I will take and xacto knife/blade and just cut away the excess 2-3mm of tape that is going up the bead wall. Just stick the blade down in the corner of the rim where the bead wall/bead lock is and cut away. Then peel up that excess 2-3mm. The location of where I stick the blade of the xacto knife is on this pic labeled "bead lock"
https://www.acebike.com/images/offs...logies/offset-Carbon-Rims-Technologies_03.jpg

After I cut the excess away I take a sponge and slowly press down all the tape as best as I can making sure that the edge of all my tape is really really pressed down and sticking to the rim.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I pulled it pretty tight and tried poking a hole with a heated awl. It immediately split in half and strated curling up and falling off. I wrapped the tape again and tried to poke it with the sharp tip of a knife, same result.

Sending it back. I am just going to accecpt being raped by the price of Stan's ir WTB tape.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

mack_turtle said:


> I pulled it pretty tight and tried poking a hole with a heated awl. It immediately split in half and strated curling up and falling off. I wrapped the tape again and tried to poke it with the sharp tip of a knife, same result.
> 
> Sending it back. I am just going to accecpt being raped by the price of Stan's ir WTB tape.


That's the whole point of this thread. Not to get raped for 22.00 and only be able to do 1 set of wheels with that.

Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Polyester-Silicone-Splicing/dp/B00EP22NKY

Or go get some Tyvek tape. You will have to cut it down to size though. Someone posted a link to some 1 3/4" tyvek on an earlier thread.

If you want a super long term solution and don't super high PSI you can use gorilla clear. Some have reported it blowing out at spoke holes at high psi, but they typically are using just one layer.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Marker Post:
updated OP with a few notes and some of the powder coating tapes. Let me know if I am missing a proven tape that is not on the front page.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

mack_turtle said:


> maybe I missed something, but how does Kapton tape work? I just got some, stretched a double layer on my rim, then went to poke a hole for the valve and the tape split in half and started falling off the rim. I tried it again, same thing. how do you get a hole in Kapton take without it falling apart?


Couple things. You don't need to stretch the hell out of it like you do with Stan's tape, all you need is just enough tension to get the tape to conform to the rim. This usually keeps the tape from splitting and coming off the rim, or if does split, it stays stuck down. If the tape splits, just cut a 6-8" long piece and tape it over the valve hole WITHOUT putting tension on it, then poke the hole again.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

mack_turtle said:


> Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth


wow as a fellow wheel builder and bike builder I don't know what to say. if running an xacto knife around your rim 1x is too much work, I really don't know what to say. I think it takes literally 10 seconds? Plus another 15-30 seconds to peel away the overlapped cut tape.

Purpose made tapes? You think stans tape was specifically made for stans?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

aerius said:


> Couple things. You don't need to stretch the hell out of it like you do with Stan's tape, all you need is just enough tension to get the tape to conform to the rim. This usually keeps the tape from splitting and coming off the rim, or if does split, it stays stuck down. If the tape splits, just cut a 6-8" long piece and tape it over the valve hole WITHOUT putting tension on it, then poke the hole again.


Sorry for the outburst. I just had a frustration morning being humiliated by my bike doing what I thought would be an easy job.

Yes, now that I have had time to think about it, I must have pulled the tape too hard and split it with the tension. I am used to Stans and Gorilla tape, which you have to stretch pretty darn hard to make it fit. Since I have yards of the stuff, I can give it another go. Thanks!

How many layers of Kapton should I need on a Stans rim?

I tried wider tape but i could not keep it from splitting. Maybe I just don't have the steadiness to cut it evenly and maybe I was stretching it too tight in the first place. If I had access to a tool to cut it down nice and clean, perhaps that would have been less of a headache.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

mack_turtle said:


> How many layers of Kapton should I need on a Stans rim?


I generally go with 2 full layers, starting on the side opposite the valve hole. This lets me put the patch piece over the valve hole if I need it without making that area too thick.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Kapton tape to create a bead shelf lip? anything else that works well? Strong adhessive, thick, hard plastic. I have a SR-25 rim that I've split tube before, and it worked pretty good. It was a absolute pain to get that split tube off of there though. Had to use an exacto knife to cut the tube underneath the tire.

I'd like to build up a little bit of a lip to help retain the bead lock. WTB does a great job with this, but sunringle does a horrible job. Especially on their inferno rims and that U shape. At least the SR25 has a bead shelf.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I thought Sun were using BST design licensed from Stan's. Is that still relevant?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I think some are, but some older rims, especially low end ones, don't.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

watts888 said:


> Kapton tape to create a bead shelf lip? anything else that works well?.


Kapton is thin, you want thick tape for rims that don't have a tubeless-specific bead shelf. I have my CX bike with non-tubeless rims set up with two layers of Gorilla tape and WTB tcs tires. The bead on those tires is very tight, so it works well.


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

combfilter said:


> Also, not sure why the dude above said not to cut it while on the rim. I've done that with tyvek, kapton, and that green amazon stuff all the time. Typically the tape I use is a little wider than my inner rim width. So I will lay down layer 1 and then I will take and xacto knife/blade and just cut away the excess 2-3mm of tape that is going up the bead wall. Just stick the blade down in the corner of the rim where the bead wall/bead lock is and cut away. Then peel up that excess 2-3mm. The location of where I stick the blade of the xacto knife is on this pic labeled "bead lock"
> https://www.acebike.com/images/offs...logies/offset-Carbon-Rims-Technologies_03.jpg
> 
> After I cut the excess away I take a sponge and slowly press down all the tape as best as I can making sure that the edge of all my tape is really really pressed down and sticking to the rim.


You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me? 
First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less. 
Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it. 
Should I go on or do you know see how idiotic your idea is?
It's so easy to mount a utility knife blade to a block of wood with a fence to set the width of the trimmer that you'll be thinking; WTF was I thinking!


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

manitou2200 said:


> You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me?
> First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
> Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less.
> Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it.
> ...


That escalated quickly!


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

mack_turtle said:


> That escalated quickly!


Escalated? It's so obvious why you would do something like that that I can't believe he actually posted what he did. Think about it!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Not touching that with an 11 foot pole.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I saw what you did there Mack.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

manitou2200 said:


> You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me?
> First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
> Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less.
> Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it.
> ...


Do you think I am carving into my rim full force like someone etching their name in a park bench? Do you think that an carbon/aluminum bead wall is that susceptible to damage from a blade that really doesn't even hit it.? The tape overlap makes a transition in which the blade has room to penetrate without carving into your rim. You should try it before you tell people it's a bad idea. Even if i pushed the blade enough to score a razor thin line in the carbon you really think it's going compromise my rim? If carbon and aluminum were really that fragile then 777's would be falling out of the sky, we couldn't ride our bikes on dirt, and my carbon fiber quad i've crashed 20x's wouldn't be operational.

Not only do I practice what I preach, but I even do it on some spendy wheels. Post 11 is my carbon enve's that I have taped 2 other types of tape since that post. Guess how I cut those next tapes down to size? I am a heck of a lot more worried about all the rocks, roots, trees, and other abuse my rims go through than a possible razor thin line around the inside edge of a bead wall (that doesn't exist).

Remember I started this thread? I've cut down my share of tapes. Matter of fact, your use of tyvek tape probably came from post 1 of this thread (thank me later). One thing you are right about was me thinking "WTF was I thinking". That thought came to me once I learned how the Downhillers/Enduro/Fat bike riders cut their gorilla clear directly on the rim. I thought "wtf was I thinking trying to cut a roll of tape to size?" Cutting on the rim has been by far the most effective, best fitting, efficient way I've done it (other than buying perfect size tape which is not always an option). Apparently you can mount a utility blade to a block of wood and cut perfect in less than 10 seconds? That's seriously impressive.

So yeah back to your question, Please go on. Your constructive contribution to this thread is appreciated.


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

This is not a pissing match and I'm not going to argue with you about your choice and recommendation to trim tape on a rim with a knife. This is not a good idea and it's bad advice to be dolling out here. Don't take my word for it, contact Enve, Reynolds, Derby, Nox and ask them about your technique trimming tape on the rim. Then post back here on the thread you started (which by the way is a very good thread, so thanks) and let us know what they say. I don't think you're going to like what they tell you but you should because it may save you some headaches down the road. 
Scuff, nicks, scratches to a carbon rim from riding is not going to cause as much of an issue as a cut in line around the rim. Sure you can crush a rim in a crash if it contacts rock to the sidewall but that'll happen to most any rim or frame for that matter regardless of material. 
Trimming the tape on the roll is faster, more efficient and more accurate. I obviously exaggerated about it being 100 times faster but I was trying to make a point. Trimming on the roll allows you to trim the whole roll quickly and once you do it you'll see what I mean. It's easy to make a guide with a fence holding an utility knife blade and clamp it to your bench, then you slide the role up to the guide and blade and spin it around cutting the tape accurately and quickly, as much or as little of the roll as you need. 
I've been 100% tubeless for almost 12 years now except on my road bike. I've run ghetto tubeless, UST, and now the TR systems, they've gotten so good now that it seems crazy to me to not to be running tubeless on your mountain bikes. 
The other issue is it's not always necessary to run the tape wall to wall as some rim manufactures don't recommend it and some tires are very tight to the bead bed as is. I also sometimes brush a thin layer of contact cement in the center well to assist the tape in adhesion. You can use solvent based contact or water are if your concerned about a reaction to to the carbon rim. This really helps the tape lay down and adhere sometimes and clean up is not an issue if you have to re-tape the rim down the road. 
You cover the tape options well in this thread but no I did not get the Tyvek idea from here. Some of the earliest ghetto tubeless I did was using a layer of nylon fiber packing tape and a layer of 3m electrical tape over the top. The electrical tape is impervious to most everything and seals perfectly but stretches too much to be used alone. The fiber tape controlled the stretch but is not as durable or has the best sealing properties. 
So yes I practice what I preach as well. I just want to help members avoid potential issues as I see them with some not so great advice. I do apologize for being a bit of a bull in a china shop here. 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## boboxx (Nov 15, 2011)

Has anyone ever tried shin pad hockey tape? It's super cheap and easily available everywhere here in Canada??

Renfrew Poly Clear Shin Guard Hockey Tape


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

I'm sure it works, it's a bit on the thick side but that would be good for some tire rim combos. Probably wouldn't need more than once around for most. 


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

mack_turtle said:


> Not touching that with an 11 foot pole.


Neg repped for that with the comment "you've go [sic] the problem pal!"

Not touching that with a 12 footer either.


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## EndoanaJones (Oct 26, 2011)

combfilter said:


> My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions........
> *Tesa 4289*
> This is the tape that people say is exactly what Stans is. You can find it dirt cheap on amazon. The only issue i've had with stans tapes and as well as the 9998 tapes is that when they sit or are in the heat long the adhesive tends to wear off. I've even got rolls from amazon that were kind of warped and you could tell the warping was from them getting hot/cold/hot/cold int he warehouse and the adhesive coming undone


Has anyone tried TESA 4298? The company website says it doesn't leave any residue. The TESA 4289 doesn't make that claim. Just wondering


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## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

PUNKY said:


> ........A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/
> Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.
> 
> I'm unsure to why I had the valve leakage. The Stan's valve doesn't appear to be damaged in anyway. Likely will install a new valve stem when I do the Stan's Tape to rule out the valve. Reusing a Stan's Valve hasn't given myself grief before now. Do people put a dab of silicon around the valve stem before installation to prevent leakage? Other than that I may've put too large of a hole in the Gorilla Tape...


In my experience, sealant leaking out at the valve hole does not mean theres a problem with the valve or the valve hole or the tape over the valve hole. Sealant can get into any of the spoke holes and will migrate to the only exit in the system, which is the non-rubber-gasket-end of the valve. It's less likely to leak out of the spoke holes because of the high tension pulling the nipple tightly agains the rim surface. Fluid doesn't run in a straight line, it goes all over the damn place. As this post mentioned, the tape had already started rolling over the nipple holes. There's your obvious leak.


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## EndoanaJones (Oct 26, 2011)

jm2e said:


> In my experience, sealant leaking out at the valve hole does not mean theres a problem with the valve or the valve hole or the tape over the valve hole. Sealant can get into any of the spoke holes.......


I came to the same conclusion recently after developing a leak. I replaced the valve stem and aired up the tire. After airing up I sprayed soapy water on the tire/rim and bubbles appeared at the valve stem. I put the old valve stem back in - same thing. I finally discovered a wrinkle in the tape that made a conduit to a spoke hole and I figured that was the problem. 
I re-taped the rim and all is well.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

combfilter said:


> Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Polyester-Silicone-Splicing/dp/B00EP22NKY


Thanks again for all the work you and other contributors have added to this thread.

I just went tubeless this year on my 27.5+ bike but my wheels came pre-taped from factory. I had a hub failure the other week and the manufacturer is replacing the hub and relacing the wheel, but I have heard from others that they have sent the wheels back NOT taped, hence my search.

I am going to give this Maxi tape a try as its one of the few that should not require cutting being that I only have a 32mm wide OD rim at this time, I figure the width should be just about right. *Fingers Crossed*.

I'll be sure to update down the road w/ the success (or lack there of) that I encounter w/ this tape.. wish me luck and thanks again!


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## GarfieldCat (Jun 18, 2013)

I tried Gorilla Clear Repair Tape on a non UST rim with a UST tire. it failed, twice. I just could not get it to seal. The surface of the tape is slippery and the 2nd layer slid on top of the 1st layer. It also left a residue when I took it off. Maybe some people have success with the Gorilla Clear, but I struck out twice.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

combfilter said:


> That's the whole point of this thread. Not to get raped for 22.00 and only be able to do 1 set of wheels with that.
> 
> Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Polyester-Silicone-Splicing/dp/B00EP22NKY


As a follow up, I have had the 1/2" version of this tape on my rear wheel for 3 weeks now after my rear hub was fixed and it has held air perfectly so far (even with an overlap section in the middle of the rim (pic below). I'm going to order a 1" wide version to redo my wheels in the spring but so far I'm incredibly happy and this is basically VERY sticky (but resedue free) plastic tape... it has the perfect amount of stretch/tension and has a great seal.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ The picture no showy


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

I used 20mm Kapton tape (20mmx100ft $5-6 on eBay) on my i30 carbon wheels when I first had them built. went on easily and seems to stick well. 
Previously, with gorilla tape, Stan's tape or "fake Stan's' 3M 8898 I would have occasional leaks from the spoke holes that required the tubeless shake and dance to seal. I expected the same from kapton, but it doesn't seem to be the case. Likely more due to the rim width than anything, but regardless, kapton laid down nicely.

I laid down 2 layers of Kapton with only just a little bit of tension and cut an X for the valve hole with a hobby razor knife.. jammed in the valve stem and aired it up. 
I really like that it's translucent and I can easily see where/if sealant has gotten under the tape. 

Kapton is definitely my tape of choice now.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

+1 on Kapton. I don't cut an X though. I prefer to poke a hole in the hopes that there isn't a tear in the tape where valve base seals. I use one layer on mtb and two on road.


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## bruto (Nov 23, 2014)

I use soldering iron to make the valve hole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Kapton tape truly is the best tubeless tape option there is IMO. I've done gorilla, gorilla clear, and Stan's. Kapton has give my 0 issues where as something always went wrong with the others.

And kapton tape comes in widths that you can do 80 and 100mm fat hoops too without issues (need a rim strip over the rim cut outs though of course).

Kapton doesn't break down and start leaking or anything else due to sealant.

Only thing is DONT STRETCH IT. Only just enough to make it fit snug on the rim. If you pull and stretch like you do other tapes it will tear at the nipple hole. And there is 0 reason to pull on it that hard anyway. Fits and seals perfectly.

So far my son's 20", about to do it on his 24" fat bike that is replacing the 20", my 29er and my fat bike on mulefuts.

Every one I've had 0 issues with. 29er has been going all season including a rear tire change, haven't touched the tape. Fat bike I set up and rode for a bit with a 3.8 tire on the rear, just switched it to a 4.7 tire, didn't touch the tape at all just switched tires and been perfect.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^ The picture no showy


Fixed but included here again


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## BareNecessities (Nov 21, 2012)

After reading through the thread, I've decided to give the Kapton polyimide tape a go. I've used Gorilla before and don't like the residue & sealant absorption. Tesa 4289 has also been effective, but I've found that it doesn't conform well to some rim beds.

Would one layer of Kapton be enough for relatively low pressure mtb tyres?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No use 2-3 layers. Its still far lighter than anything else.

Also DO NOT pull tight like you do other tapes. Just pull a little bit, enough to avoid wrinkles and such. Anything more and when you cut the hole for the valve stem the tape will tear and you'll be starting over.

I'm on an entire season on my 29er and 2 months on the my fat bike using kapton tape and first time I have had 0 tape issues.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## BareNecessities (Nov 21, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> No use 2-3 layers. Its still far lighter than anything else.
> 
> Also DO NOT pull tight like you do other tapes. Just pull a little bit, enough to avoid wrinkles and such. Anything more and when you cut the hole for the valve stem the tape will tear and you'll be starting over.
> 
> I'm on an entire season on my 29er and 2 months on the my fat bike using kapton tape and first time I have had 0 tape issues.


Good to hear. I'll be careful not to stretch it tight.

Thanks!


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

As mentioned earlier, I use 1 layer of Kapton on mtb and two on 100psi road tires. I do check for and remove any sharp burs on the the spoke holes in the rim bed, which I do when using Stan's tape too. It's stupidly light so use more layers if it makes you feel better. On road wheels it weighed 5gm/wheel with two layers. 

If it tears, you can put a couple of inch patch over it. I've poked holes through it to replace spokes and then patched the holes with short pieces.


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## BareNecessities (Nov 21, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> As mentioned earlier, I use 1 layer of Kapton on mtb and two on 100psi road tires. I do check for and remove any sharp burs on the the spoke holes in the rim bed, which I do when using Stan's tape too. It's stupidly light so use more layers if it makes you feel better. On road wheels it weighed 5gm/wheel with two layers.


Ah yes. It was your posts that made me wonder if one wrap was enough. The spoke holes on my Easton Arc 30s seem well finished, so they should present no problems. It even looks as if Easton sell rebranded Kapton tape as part of their tubeless conversion kit.

Easton MTB Tubeless Conversion Kit | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

Got a pair of Mulefut 80mm rims that I have been messing around with tape on. Front is stretch wrap (gives me no problems, except when I change tires I have to redo it every time), rear was just redone with Tough Duct tape and is slowly leaking probably due to a poor tape job by me.

Think this will work for them? 80mm polyimide tape.
80mm 8cm x 30M Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant Polyimide | eBay

Seems cheap for quite a bit of it. Also the Sun Ringle tape is 78mm, do you think I will need to trim the 2mm or not?

Thanks

P.S.

I have also never had an issue with Stans tape. It is just pricey even if you can get deals on it.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

In the fatbike tires I've set up, I've used wide Gorilla tape...which I'm not very fond of. I leave the existing rim strip on to cover the cutouts in the rim, go around one side of the rim and then use a heat gun to help form and adhere the tape to the rim bed. The I do the other side of the rim. It works OK except it's not uncommon for the adhesive to ooze out from under the tape and stick to the tire bead causing the Gorilla tape to pull up when removing the tire, which sometimes necessitates retaping. One thing about Gorilla tape is that it's pretty thick and builds up the bead seat diameter of the rim so that the tire's bead fits more tightly. Kapton wouldn't do that. I'm not sure how well Kapton would conform to the rim bed shape and cover the existing rim strip. Conceivably you could use narrower Kapton, maybe 1" wide, and go around the rim in a spiral overlapping the tape 1/2 its width. I'm not sure that's a great idea either. I always install a tube and let it sit for a while to press down and form the tape the rim bed. Anyway, give it a shot and report back with how it works and what you think.


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## yourrealdad (May 17, 2012)

Does Kapton not have a strong adhesive?

I am not worried about setting up the bead seat to make the tires fit tighter. Have you ever tried to take a tire off a Mulefut? Nearly impossible.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The adhesive is pretty thin and works well on smooth clean surfaces. It's not tacky, thick and goopy like Gorilla tape's adhesive and won't fill voids or stick to something that isn't smooth. If it doesn't lie flat and gets wrinkles, the adhesive may not fill the wrinkles and it could leak.


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

mack_turtle said:


> Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth


8898 is all you need.


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## dsmxsteve (Jun 19, 2016)

Not sure of the brand name, but I work in the bio pharm construction industry and I picked up a roll of what we call "clean room" tape. It's basically a vinyl duct tape that will not leave any residue behind. I taped up my first rim with it earlier today, and it sealed up fine. I'll report back if there's any issues. 
(Edit) 
Here's a link to the manufacturers page. This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline....mOHQTOaA3nH-7HWWe7ZQuBoC-vfw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

dsmxsteve said:


> This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline....mOHQTOaA3nH-7HWWe7ZQuBoC-vfw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.


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## dsmxsteve (Jun 19, 2016)

Cleared2land said:


> Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.


That was directly from the distributor, I imagine it can be found in single roll quantities from vendors.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Clean room tape...what is it used for?


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## dsmxsteve (Jun 19, 2016)

Schulze said:


> dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?


It's pretty stretchy. Matter of fact, I had to be careful not to over stretch it when I installed it on my rim. So I did a double wrap and put 10 miles and a few smaller jumps by a 230 lb. man on the bike today and no blow outs yet. This is on a i23 Rim

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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

J: said:


> Clean room tape...what is it used for?


To tape a clean room.....

......Bom-Ba-Dom


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## dsmxsteve (Jun 19, 2016)

J: said:


> Clean room tape...what is it used for?


For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

dsmxsteve said:


> For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Rngspnr said:


> 3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.


That's what I use. It's perfect.

Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

Le Duke said:


> That's what I use. It's perfect.
> 
> Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots


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## dsmxsteve (Jun 19, 2016)

J: said:


> Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?


Now that, I'm not sure of and that was my only concern when being used as tubeless tape. I think I had mentioned it once before but I have a double wrap on a rear i23 with almost 3 ounces of stans in it. So far it's been 3 days of good hard riding (for a heavy rookie) I've put on them and the haven't leaked a bit. I just checked them again this morning with soapy water, as I'm going on a longer ride and don't want to be stranded and not a single bubble has immersed. I will keep an update going if people want to know the results

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Steezus (Jul 25, 2007)

J: said:


> Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots


I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.

I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Steezus said:


> I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.
> 
> I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.


It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.

I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.

The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.


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## Steezus (Jul 25, 2007)

Le Duke said:


> It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.
> 
> I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.
> 
> The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.


I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Steezus said:


> I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.


It's worth noting that I rebuilt a rear wheel this summer that I'd used 8896 on, and there is NO residue when you pull it off. Unlike Gorilla tape, which will provide the user with an hour or more of cursing when you try to remove it.

And yes, the ability to see the air pockets and press them out is nice. Guarantees that you get maximum adhesion to the rim, so the tape will have less chance of shifting once installed.

One thing that might help is doing a "basic" installation, then throwing a tire AND tube on, and inflating to a pretty high pressure. This should pack the tape down and not require nearly as much effort.


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## Carl H. (Nov 8, 2016)

Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Carl H. said:


> Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?


I live in the sticks (rural western VA) so I do most of my shopping on Amazon. The closest store that carries anything like it is 20min+ away.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R9N0VV87YMVA7JP2FE9Z


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.

It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.

https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-tapes/professional-duct-tapes/stucco/pe-444


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## Carl H. (Nov 8, 2016)

Anybody ever given this stuff a look? I have no idea how heavy it is, but it looks like good stuff for this application.



> MOCAP's Silicone X‑Treme Tape™ is made from a special silicone material which sticks (bonds) only to itself. X-Treme Tape™ has NO ADHESIVE and leaves no residue when removed. MOCAP silicone tape stretches up to 300% and conforms to irregular shapes.
> 
> Creates an Air-Tight, Water-Tight Seal in seconds!
> Never gets gooey or sticky like old-fashioned electrical tape or duct tape - No messy cleanup!
> ...


The only drawback I see to it is its price. For a single 2"x36' roll it's about $50 shipped.:shocked:


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## bruto (Nov 23, 2014)

if you've used silicone tapes before, they're quite grippy
if the tire is not loose, it will tear/peel the tape during installation/removal
tubeless tape needs to be slippery on the outside


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## bruto (Nov 23, 2014)

R-M-R said:


> Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.
> 
> It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).


how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
https://www.benscycle.com/images/product/large/25102_2_.jpg


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## HPIguy (Sep 16, 2014)

For you guys using the strapping tape, is it still holding well? I need to tape up a set of Duroc 50's, and the 1.88in comes in at 47mm, which is perfect for the 46mm inner of the rim. LBS isn't going to have tubeless tape anywhere near that width. And I'm guessing you're using the clear version, and not the reinforced?


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKGIBYE


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## chuckiebruster (Dec 5, 2016)

I just picked up two of these https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/2bliss-ready-rim-strip/105975.

Beats the hell out of taping the rim. I used the 27.5x31MM on Stans MK3 Flows and it was a perfect fit. $3 per wheel at my LBS.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

bruto said:


> how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
> https://www.benscycle.com/images/product/large/25102_2_.jpg


The high fiber content means it feels somewhere between typical duct tape and a fiber tape, such as hockey tape. Thickness is similar to duct tape, but less elongation. Much thinner than Gorilla Tape. I see no reason why it should have problems with a bead lock.

Do you need to tape over the bead lock? Whenever possible, I tape only the spoke holes, though I could see a need for full-width taping on a pinned or sleeved rim.


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## bruto (Nov 23, 2014)

yep, pinned rim


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## scoon (Aug 26, 2005)

Hey there,

After reading through all 7 pages, it seems that gorilla tape has updated their black tape and it does not work as well for tubless. Is that correct? Does this also make the clear gorilla tape not work for tubless either?

Amazon does have the Kapton tape. HERE is a link.

Thanks,

Skip


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Anyone try e13's tape, or know exactly what it is? Just read this on their site:

Most tubeless tape has as least one weakness. It doesn't stick well, leaves a residue when removed, is hard to install, is too thick or too thin.

Our tape balances the needs of tubeless users with a purpose designed tape, not just our favorite tape from the hardware store.

What's in the box: Tubeless tape

e*thirteen tubeless tape:

Has the right amount of adhesive
Will not leave a residue when removed
Stretches for easy install and snug valve fit
Won't tear easily
Comes in perfect widths for e*thirteen rims
8m roll tapes 2 wheels
40m roll tapes 10 wheels

However, it aint cheap


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

OP, whats your verdict between kapton and maxi 248?


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

rodzilla said:


> Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.
> 
> https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-tapes/professional-duct-tapes/stucco/pe-444
> View attachment 1117445


I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

ShadowGLI said:


> I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win


This might be a winner, given that it's compliant and doesn't leave residue. Will just need a long term report! (hint)!


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

OP, since you are double layering the kapton, what are your thoughts on just using the 2 mil version?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

anyone tried these?
https://www.kaptontape.com/blue_masking_tapes.php

https://www.kaptontape.com/Green_Masking_Tapes.php

They look like the powdercoating tapes mentioned in this thread.


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## Weedling (Feb 28, 2008)

I've found that T-Rex tape is very similar to Gorilla tape but does not leave residue when removed. It's not 100% airtight though so I usually topped up my pressure before each ride. One wrap is 20 grams. 

Much easier to use than the tesa tape which in a PINA to get to conform to the center channel of the tim.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

FWIW: I use two layers of 1 mil Kapton tape on my road bike, tubed and tubeless running ~100psi. I use one layer on mtbs. On a set of wider carbon mtb rims the tape only covers the holes, not the entire width of the rim bed. I check that there are no burrs or excessively sharp edges on the spoke holes.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Does the Kapton tape have any stretch? 

What's the difference between the green and the red linked above?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

What's the secret for getting the kapton tape down without any wrinkles? Or are some wrinkles ok?


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

Loch said:


> I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.


Thanks for the heads up Loch! I bought this for wide rims to only find out later the rims was already taped. Still a great tape for around the house though!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

My thoughts are NO Wrinkles. Keep it stretched tight when applying. This applies to any tape being applied.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

dwyooaj said:


> It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?


I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Tyvek tape on 65mm fat rims.

I use it on my 90mm rims too, but I use two passes.

Doesn't get any lighter, and it seals great.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

aerius said:


> I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.


Good to know. what im really having trouble with is not getting bubbles trapped between the 2 layers of tape, as it sticks better to itself than to the rim.Right now tehres a tube in it at 60 psi to really push it down flat. 
btw i have better luck when I cut an x for the valve hole instead of poking a hole, with the lines on the x at 45 degree angles to the rim. Never had the (wtb) tape tear with that method.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

i got a roll of tyvek tape to compare to the kapton and OMG its so easy to stick down good in the rim channel.
is 1 layer good for mtb (sub 28 psi) with the tyvek or am i supposed to do 2 layers?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

dwyooaj said:


> Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
> Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.


Because the wheel in the pic above is my race setup/backup, I haven't added any sealant to it. It's held air for 4 days now with just the one pass of Tyvek. I'll add sealant when I use it on the trails, but impressive that it holds air just fine with nothing else.


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## tflight (Aug 11, 2015)

Does anybody know what Whisky Parts Co uses for their tape, or what it is most similar to?


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## Slow poke (Jul 23, 2013)

for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Slow poke said:


> for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?


If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.

I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.


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## Slow poke (Jul 23, 2013)

thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.



R-M-R said:


> If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.
> 
> I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Slow poke said:


> thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.


Give them a quick wipe wiith isopropanol or acetone, just to be sure!


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

slcpunk said:


> I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...


This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Simplemind said:


> This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.


Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.

Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.


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## gumby. (Mar 11, 2013)

I use common garden brown carton tape and turps to remove adhesive residues. I've never met one it wouldn't remove from contact adhesive to stickers except duct tape, it does leave it's own residue which is easily cleaned with prepsol, alchahol, meths etc.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

R-M-R said:


> Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.
> 
> Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.


copy - thanks for both answers R-M-R and simplemind.

I just didn't like the "suspended" look of the tape where it was only adhered to the high points and not touching the rim bed at the spokes at all. Maybe a more careful application would yield no wrinkles.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

R-M-R said:


> Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed.


I have personally blown out a spoke hole twice with single layer 8896 tape, which is pretty strong stuff. This was on a pair of easton XR wheels a few years back. Was riding maybe 26 psi rear at the time.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Just had to change the blue 3M tape on my road bike wheels. Damn stuff left 100% of the adhesive on the rims when I pulled it off. Used up an entire can of goof-off while cleaning.


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## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

I just did two carbon wheels (i29, i39) in 20mm Kapton tape. Brilliant stuff. Weighs nothing, sticks well, easy to apply, and very strong. It doesn't cover the entire center channel, but I don't think it needs to. I also bought Maxi 248 3.3mil 1". Didn't like that quite as much. The extra thickness and width just made it harder to place. Still a fine tape, though. 

ENVE sent me a roll of their tubeless tape. Looks like 1" Gorilla tape. The roll is 105g, so around 50g per wheel. It's terrifically durable. I've mounted and unmounted tires twenty times on one of my rims. The tape still looks new. Unaffected by sealant. Wouldn't want to try taking it off, though.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

Report on Kapton tape.

I want to convert my father's wheelset to tubeless, and also find an option to my Flows Mk3 with Stans tape in case I damage the tape.

So I ordered 100m of 30mm wide Kapton tape.

I also have a set of carbon rims with no internal nipple holes, so I decided to test on them the tape, because if something go wrong nothing bad will happen.
And I'm glad I did.

The photos were taken more or less 3 months after I install the tape on my carbon rims.



























I always tape wall to wall, and as you can see in the last photo, the only part of the tape that did not melted was what was under the tire bed, everything else was either gelatinous or rubber like.

I use homebrew sealant, BAMFS v3, and this is the first time I see something like this happen.


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Also trying to decide on the "optimal" width for rim tape on new i30 carbon rims. I can choose between 25, 27 and 29mm rim tape at the BHS. Is bead to bead really the best way to go on coverage?

Rim Tape & VeloPlugs


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

Bontrager TLR rim tape (blue) works fine and is very easy to use, I use it on Line Pro 40.
Plastic Bontrager TLR rim strips are just great, super easy to install and reliable, but are rim specific. I use them with Mustang rims. The only issue - soapy water is a must, and it usually takes me 3-4 pump air blows in a row to have a tire fully set. After I verify that it is set, I deflate it, add sealant, and inflate again. Never add sealant until you verify that the tire is fully set!


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

combfilter said:


> aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.


My best guess is that the tape is counterfeit, otherwise other people with homebrew would have the same problem. Unless no one else is using the tape and ammonia based homebrew.


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

How do you guys know that all ingredients of your recipes, for example ammonia, is chemically compatible with your tire compounds? And how do you know it will not evaporate quickly?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/best-tubeless-brew-406115.html


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

Cleared2land said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/best-tubeless-brew-406115.html


Yep, sorry, posted in a wrong thread.


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## Rey Recinto (Mar 15, 2005)

Kapton tape is almost identical to Spank/Fratelli tape....but I might be mistaken...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Kapton tape I use with Stan's (ammonia) has held up for years. The polyimide film and silicone adhesive is pretty impervious.


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## Troy68 (Apr 7, 2017)

I recently got back into mountain biking and had my first experience with a leaky tubeless setup. I did what I thought was the easiest: picked up some yellow Stan's tape and proceeded to botch the whole procedure. I mean, it's better than it was (I can at least ride) but the 30mm wide tape was hard to work with on a deep asymmetrical rim. I found this thread through Google while researching. But onto the real point of this post... be aware that the Maxi and Kapton tapes have a shelf life! 3M says 36 months at 70 degrees and 50% humidity. This is before use so I have no idea what that means once you install them - although it sounds like Louisiana or Florida may not be the best environment.  It's cheap enough that I don't mind throwing it in the trash when it gets old but it's something to note for people thinking that buying a big roll means they never need to buy another. Also, I don't imagine that anything designed for powder coating was made for long term durability as the install/remove turnaround time is usually very quick. That stuff really only needs to do its job for a few days at the most. At least Tyvek is designed for semi-permanent use in hot, wet conditions. These are just observations from reading manufacturer literature! Real world experience like this thread is invaluable for beginners like me.

Troy


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

I've come to the conclusion that tyvek tape is the best for this application. Cheap, easy to apply, strong, waterproof, and as far as I can tell quite permanent. Heck it's designed to be weatherproofing tape


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## unclesomebody (Jun 12, 2012)

I've just done my EX511 rim in "kapton" tape and really struggled. It's full of wrinkles and I think a few air bubbles. The first issue was the lack of stickiness. It didn't stick (at all) to the aluminium. I had to get round a quarter of the wheel before I could get some purchase to hold it and I ended up doing 2 full laps because it does stick to itself very well.

I'm not sure how relevant this is but my "kapton" tape was actually labelled "koptan" and I bought it from this ebay auction: 0.5/10/20/30/40/50mm 100ft Heat Resistant High Temperature Polyimide Tape Hot

The stans I had previously went on much more easily, stuck much better (although the rest of the roll lost it's stickiness pretty quick!), and never caused any issues. This was a lot cheaper though and given that it comes in 30mm to match the rim I thought it was worth a shot. I guess we'll see if it seals up and what it looks like in another month or so.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Any updates here? 

Anybody know if Home Depot carries the Tyvek tape in narrower widths?


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## sciencemike (Feb 6, 2016)

Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2

Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.

Had a little trouble taking off the clear Gorilla tape that was on there before, but isopropyl alcohol and a hair dryer did the trick.


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## thinman (Jun 13, 2005)

*Trimming Tubeless Tape*

For trimming tubeless rim tape to width I have had great results using a balsa stripper. I set the width so I cut from the side that will be wasted so I can Perl it off as I cut deeper.  Nice even edge and reasonably safe. Costs $8-12 if memory serves. Replacement blades are xacto, cheap and readily available.


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

sciencemike said:


> Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2
> 
> Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.


The material element of this tape feels a lot like Stan's/Tesa to me other than being transparent green. It does not stretch much and is a little bit thicker than the 3M/Scotch 889x tapes. I'll try this when I retape my rims. I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

ceugene said:


> ...I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...


I run road tubeless at 100psi with two layers. One layer on mtb rims. The tape is 0.001" thick with 0.002" of adhesive. The stuff has held up over two years so far on carbon and aluminum rims. I do check there are no burs on the holes in the rim bed, and with any tape application, ensure the rim bed is scrupulously clean so the tape will adhere well and keep sealed.

I've applied blue strapping tape, Stan's, Gorilla and other tapes and have removed them after use. They all work, but Kapton remains my personal preference.


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

sciencemike said:


> Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2
> 
> Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.


Wrapped my front rim with the green powder coating masking tape. It conforms better to the center channel of the rim than Stan's. On my roll the adhesive is not as strong and doesn't stick to carbon that well, but that isn't an issue when wrapped twice tightly. I had only two small bubbles near the end of my wrapping job and managed to squeeze them out completely. This was by far the cleanest taping job I've ever done.

Highly recommended based on initial impressions. Will update if something goes wrong.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I had a lot of trouble centering with 1" tape Tape Master Green PC Masking Tape in my i25 rims. Luckily it's cheap and plentiful so I'll get lots of practice with it. 

I either with they made a 1.25" width to more easily go hook-to-hook or perhaps I should go with .75" and just cover the center channel.


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## d-ol (Feb 8, 2017)

I'm going with the schwalbe rim tape priced at $45 CAD a 10m roll... 

no, I'm kidding, this is just a rip off... and I boycott schwalbe from now on... 
seriously if they feel they can price a tape at $45 they might as well screw their customer all across the board... 

Will try to find Tyvek tape... but in canada everything is hard to get... it's like third world when time to buy stuffs....


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## daught (Aug 12, 2017)

Screw taping. I had a slow leak after I taped my rim with gorilla clear. I would have preferred strapping tape but in canada it's hard to get. Gorilla clear was a disaster. It started peeling after a few days. When I took it off most of the glue stayed on the rim. 

If you need to remove old tape and glue I recommend mineral spirits and Scotch-Brite No-Scratch Scour Pad. Still took almost an hour but it completely cleaned that crap off.

After dealing with the mess left by the tape I decided to try the "ghetto tube". I got a skinny 20" schwalbe. I did not even split it. It sat right in the bead. I pinched the back of the valve and cut a small hole. No compressor need to inflate it. No trimming need on the outside as opposed to the split tube. Impossible to burp by hand. 

So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

daught said:


> So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape?


I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.


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## daught (Aug 12, 2017)

J.B. Weld said:


> I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.


Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.


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## H2o-Bar (Mar 5, 2006)

I just swapped out my rear with new rubber yesterday . I had used the Green Maxi 248 1" tape this spring with Stan's. Most of the adhesive on the tape had disintegrated due to the Stan's. Guess I was lucky to have had a flat since the tape was in such crappy condition there's no way I'd try and mount another Tubeless tire with the older green tape.
Back to Grorilla Tape (heavy but I've had Never given me any problems except after cleanup ).


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

daught said:


> Screw taping.
> 
> So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.


Just google "ghetto tubeless dangerous" or any combo of that. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/ghetto-tubeless-failure-anyone-while-use-761314.html

I am not saying this will happen to you but burping with ghetto tubeless can lead to bad things.


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## daught (Aug 12, 2017)

Tape burps way easier than 20" tube.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.


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## pedalinbob (Jan 12, 2004)

dwyooaj said:


> 7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
> the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.


I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.

What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?

Bob


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## daught (Aug 12, 2017)

Anyone find tyvek for sale in Canada? Here tuck tape(red tape) is usually used for sheathing.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Not a one size fits all approach...*



daught said:


> Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.


Yep. Approach does vary from rim to rim, and even depends on the tirs bead. A few variables include...

Aluminum or carbon. Channel width and depth - a narrow, deep channel can get away with a narrow strip of tape deep in the channel. A wide shallow channel and you're better to tape full width of rim or tape will peel when removing tires. Stans rims are smooth, and my DT ex471s are rough and different tapes adhere to each one differently. Some tapes won't fill a deep channel as they lack flexibility. Etc...

Tires. Some have very tight beads, like Schwalbes, and they are more likely to peel tape up in removal. I often tape rims using those tires differently than say a rim that will be getting a slightly looser bead like a Maxxis. As we all know, some tires set up better than others. Maxxis and Specialized are a snap. Kenda use to be good but have not used them in years. Schwalbes are a pain and are very hard to remove.

Clean rims first with acetone.

Make sure inside of rim is dry and not sloshing with old sealant or other juices.

After using quite a few flavors of tape I've found black Gorilla to still be the most versatile and it works well on all rims, though maybe not the best on every rim. Stans tape does work great on Stans rims but not so great on other rims.

Removing Gorilla tape leaves little residue if the rim is warm. The bits that remain are very easily removed with a generous application of elbow grease - though that is getting harder to find given our general male populations' testosterone deficiency.

A small but very likable constant is my DH rim of choice, DT EX471s, take up the 1" black Gorrilla perfectly with no trimming.

Home brew sealant is my favorite, but that's a different thread.

I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

pedalinbob said:


> I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.
> 
> What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?
> 
> Bob


stans and/or truckerco cream


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Miker J said:


> I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.


My learning curve involved researching and buying rims that TR tires would mount on easily, no trickery necessary.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Mavic en 827
27mm inner d

28 or 29 mm tape to use??

Tesa 4289


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

:updated original post:


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

combfilter said:


> :updated original post:


What?


----------



## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> What?


OP updated their original post.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

combfilter said:


> :updated original post:





Cleared2land said:


> What?





literally said:


> OP updated their original post.


You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.

Help me out here...


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.
> 
> Help me out here...


One of us is clearly taking crazy pills...

As far as I can tell, the original poster was indeed combfilter, and all the way at the bottom of the first post it shows:



> Last edited by combfilter; 2 Hours Ago at 01:54 PM.


I see that the original post was from 8/12/2014. I suspect you simply scrolled up to the top of page 4, where the topmost post was from 2016, and not from combfilter, and most certainly not the original post.


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.
> 
> Help me out here...


http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/tubeless-tape-thread-926021.html#post11381946


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

at the bottom of post #1 you will see where I wrote

_2/12/18: Update.
Came back to check on thread and see if I needed to add any new entries. As of this date and doing lots of tires on different rims this is my personal observation. If you want the tape to last and peel up fine and have the best of both of those worlds, the Tyvek tape is the best. I find that it never peels up from the edge, but somehow is easy to peel off if you need to sell the rim. I find it the lightest and really the toughest. If you tape it right with this stuff you can literally just use 1 layer. I use 2 since its so light. The only sucky think about tyvek is that you have to cut it size. Which blows if you mess up while trying to cut it with a razor blade. It would be awesome if there was a way to outsource some company that could cut this down to 22mm size or whatever size you wanted.

My 2nd choice would be kapton. It's dirt cheap and you can get it close to your size. I have found this to work on rims for 6-12months. Eventually it will peel up but most of you raw dawgs out there will be finished with a tire by then.

3rd choice is the green poly tape. It's dirt cheap too.

Tyvek ftw till I find something else.

Let me know if I need to update, but for now I don't see a better tape IMO than tyvek__._

That's what I updated. Like the man said. Today.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Oh geezzz....My mistake, I didn't go back far enough. 

My bad, I just added to confusion, where confusion didn't exist.

Apologies to all.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> Oh geezzz....My mistake, I didn't go back far enough.
> 
> My bad, I just added to confusion, where confusion didn't exist..


I dont think anybody would disagree that this place can be confusing and have plenty of contradicting information... But you did seem to take a pretty aggressive stance earlier. And now you're trying to deflect as if its everyone else's fault for producing such a confusing thread? Are you having a bad day or something?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

That's funny...

Nope, I accept all responsibility for being a knucklehead on this one.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> That's funny...
> 
> Nope, I accept all responsibility for being a knucklehead on this one.


In which case I must have misinterpreted your post. I rescind any earlier criticism. Everyone has a little derp from time to time.


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## biked2school (Aug 8, 2017)

New: Blue Tuck Tape.
In Canada we now have a new blue type of tuck tape that may be a good substitute for tyvek tape if tyvek is not available.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Delete


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

combfilter said:


> :updated original post:


Thanks for the thread. It's been very informative. Without it , I don't think I would have ever considered using Tyvek tape. And I've had excellent results with it. It's reasonable and it really works good.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Direct link on ebay for exact Tyvek tape plz..


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## coffeegeek2112 (Mar 2, 2007)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-HomeWrap-2-in-x-164-ft-Installation-Tape-D13841470/100422453

Best price.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Love this thread. After having bad experiences with the 3m tape on 29i carbon rims, I'm excited to try the Tyvek tape. Can someone share their best method on cutting it to a proper width? Assuming the roll is around 6" in diameter, one would have to cut 5 layers deep with a razor to get approximately the length required for 1 layer on a 29" rim (just under 8' in circumference).


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Guys get #4289 Tesa Strapping Tape and be done with it! BTW, same as Stan's.


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## Bhaalgorn (Jul 16, 2015)

steelhmr said:


> Love this thread. After having bad experiences with the 3m tape on 29i carbon rims, I'm excited to try the Tyvek tape. Can someone share their best method on cutting it to a proper width? Assuming the roll is around 6" in diameter, one would have to cut 5 layers deep with a razor to get approximately the length required for 1 layer on a 29" rim (just under 8' in circumference).


I haven't tried cutting the Tyvek tape yet, but with Gorrilla tape, I score a line at the correct width with my calipers and then carefully use an exacto knife to trace the line as deeply as I feel comfortable pressing. Sometimes a second pass is needed.

Curious to learn if there's a better method though.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Bhaalgorn said:


> Curious to learn if there's a better method though.


Find a tape that is the correct width?


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> Find a tape that is the correct width?


This seems easier said than done and also limits a person to a particular width instead of a particular tape. For instance, the inner width of my rims is 29mm, but when you take into account the channel arc length, I need a width closer to 33mm. I want the width of the tape to extend to the bottom of both flanges. Know of any tapes that are exactly 33mm in width? I don't.


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

steelhmr said:


> This seems easier said than done and also limits a person to a particular width instead of a particular tape. For instance, the inner width of my rims is 29mm, but when you take into account the channel arc length, I need a width closer to 33mm. I want the width of the tape to extend to the bottom of both flanges. Know of any tapes that are exactly 33mm in width? I don't.


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

literally said:


> View attachment 1184043


Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices? The product you posted is $19 + $3 shipping for 30' of tape. That is 9x more expensive (per foot) than the Tyvek and would only be enough to tape 3 wheels with 1 layer of tape. No thanks.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Everyone has their opinions and preferences on tubeless tape, but I have successfully used Stan's almost exclusively with zero issues or problems on many wheel sets. I have wheels that I taped with Stan's 10 years ago that have endured many, many tire swaps and are still doing great. 

I have never tried Tyvek, but I would consider that if I didn't have to cut it to fit my rims. I have never used Gorilla Tape, but I have helped several friends remove it for a fresh tape job and it was a real pain in the a$$. Far more energy and effort than it was worth to clean up for fresh tape.


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

steelhmr said:


> Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices? The product you posted is $19 + $3 shipping for 30' of tape. That is 9x more expensive (per foot) than the Tyvek and would only be enough to tape 3 wheels with 1 layer of tape. No thanks.


hey, you asked if there were any and i showed you.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

*how i cut tape*


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## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

literally said:


> hey, you asked if there were any and i showed you.


And I acknowledged as such when I said "fair enough". The rest of my posting was simply why I wasn't interested. I'd rather do the small amount of work required and pay 1/9th the price. So, in the most literal phrasing possible, thanks but no thanks.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

steelhmr said:


> Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices?


No, based on the OP's original post, I saw this thread as the OP's observations and experience with multiple types of tapes along with his notes on each. It might have morphed into what you have described though.

Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 on a roll that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Simplemind said:


> Guys get #4289 Tesa Strapping Tape and be done with it! BTW, same as Stan's.


Where can a person purchase a roll of Tesa 4289 in the US? Thanks.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Goggle it. I found too many to list


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Cleared2land said:


> Goggle it. I found too many to list


I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.

That's why I was asking "Simplemind".


----------



## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

kwapik said:


> I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.
> 
> That's why I was asking "Simplemind".


The 18mm tape will work in most applications, as you don't need to go from bead to bead. As long as the holes are well covered, then you're good. I use 18 mm on my 28mm NOX without issues. Now, that said, I did buy a 48 mmm roll from that same (good) seller on eBay. She may still have inventory, just not listed it on eBay. Let me know what you come up with!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

kwapik said:


> I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.
> 
> That's why I was asking "Simplemind".


You can't get Stan's Tape in the UK?


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## boboxx (Nov 15, 2011)

I'm trying out this Shin Pad tape currently:

https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail?ProductID=902

https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail/GenerateTDS/108R Clear/EN/


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Hmmmm...Have you already applied it? 

Report back and let us know how this works out.


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## boboxx (Nov 15, 2011)

I have and so far I'm impressed!

I just applied tape to a spare set for the photo here as the set I'm trying it on is all setup.


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Bhaalgorn said:


> I haven't tried cutting the Tyvek tape yet, but with Gorrilla tape, I score a line at the correct width with my calipers and then carefully use an exacto knife to trace the line as deeply as I feel comfortable pressing. Sometimes a second pass is needed.
> 
> Curious to learn if there's a better method though.


There are a few tricks to make cutting Gorilla tape easier, but I've not found it necessary. Similar to duct tape, once you start to tear it length-wise the tear will stay in that same spot.

Also, they make Gorilla tape in 1" widths and I've found that works well with most rims.

That said, I may give Tyvek a try. Not that I've had many issues with Gorilla tape.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

boboxx said:


> I have and so far I'm impressed!


I'm thinkin' that I might wanna try this stuff!

It's a little stretchy huh? It looks like it would be easy to apply. Sticks well?


----------



## boboxx (Nov 15, 2011)

It has a nice thickness, stick well but leaves no residue and you can stretch it to the form of the rim profile.

I'm not sure how the glue will handle the ammonia but time will tell.


----------



## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

I'm writing this out of ignorance because my wheels don't have spoke holes and thus don't require rim tape or rim strips. Why isn't there a rim strip that seals without the need for rim tape? Seems like a royal pain to have to tape the rim to seal the spoke holes and even then, how effective is that in preventing leaks? Why can't the rim strip seat up against the tire beads and seal the tire?


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

MikeDee said:


> I'm writing this out of ignorance because my wheels don't have spoke holes and thus don't require rim tape or rim strips. Why isn't there a rim strip that seals without the need for rim tape? Seems like a royal pain to have to tape the rim to seal the spoke holes and even then, how effective is that in preventing leaks? Why can't the rim strip seat up against the tire beads and seal the tire?


there are some rim strips that do just that - the bontrager tlr is the first that comes to mind. i'm guessing the taping method took off because it's lighter and cheaper for both the rim/wheel manufacturer and the customer.
having used both i'd prefer a dedicated strip like the bonty tlr for its ease of installation and use but i've never had a taped rim leak or otherwise have any issues either.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

boboxx said:


> It has a nice thickness, stick well but leaves no residue and you can stretch it to the form of the rim profile.
> 
> I'm not sure how the glue will handle the ammonia but time will tell.


Good find boboxx. Which tape is that again? I like the stretchy transparency of it. 
The link in your above post sent me to some cloth hockey stick tape.

Sent from my iFern using Tapatalk while not riding, dammit!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Noclutch said:


> Good find boboxx. Which tape is that again? I like the stretchy transparency of it.
> The link in your above post sent me to some cloth hockey stick tape.


https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail?ProductID=902


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

boboxx said:


> I'm trying out this Shin Pad tape currently:
> 
> https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail?ProductID=902
> 
> https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail/GenerateTDS/108R Clear/EN/


HAHAHA!! I live here in Hawaii. Not much hockey here. Though yeah, another realization that mail order is every thing here in hick down Waimea, Hawaii.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

literally said:


> there are some rim strips that do just that - the bontrager tlr is the first that comes to mind. i'm guessing the taping method took off because it's lighter and cheaper for both the rim/wheel manufacturer and the customer.
> having used both i'd prefer a dedicated strip like the bonty tlr for its ease of installation and use but i've never had a taped rim leak or otherwise have any issues either.


Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

MikeDee said:


> Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?


yes they're molded to fit the inner rim profile perfectly.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

MikeDee said:


> Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?


You might want to check out Caffelatex tubeless rim strips. Rather pricey, but work really well. They are made by Effetto Mariposa who have various tubeless products.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Do any of the rim strips have humps for the bead to seat against like true tubeless rims have?


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## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

boboxx said:


> I'm trying out this Shin Pad tape currently:
> 
> https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail?ProductID=902
> 
> https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepage/tape/tapedetail/GenerateTDS/108R Clear/EN/


What is the width of this tape?


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## Marsukurac (Mar 10, 2013)

I just finished my first TL installation on used wtb frequency i23. Had some issues with properly installing WTB/Stans/Tesa tape due to weird profile with nipple holes and too wide tape. Then also tried Orange Seal tape. This is probably the worst tape one can imagine. Stay away from it. I actually tore it on two attempts when pulling to install it, WTF?? Then went to buy some Gorilla tape, seated the bead w/o sealant, added Cafelatex and so far so good. I don't mind the sticky residue as I will probably throw the wheels away when I buy new wheels.


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

I used the Tyvek tape on my new rear wheel on Friday, So far I have ridden 3 days, One jump/dirt park day and two days on the trails and have had absolutely no leaks at all, so in that aspect so far so good. 

Now some of the issues I kept having during installation is the tape kept tearing when I was installing it onto the rim (tears very easily). I literally had to pull the the amount of tape needed off of the roll, have someone hold one end while I applied the other end to the rim. 
After I was satisfied that the tape was on properly I did attempt to remove the tape to see how well it came off and as I peeled evenly (only about .25 inch) it off it began to tear; at that point I stopped and reapplied that small piece. 

I say that to say this, removal of the tyvek may prove very hard to do (maybe using a heat gun may make the process easier), but I don't really forsee myself having to remove it unless it fails to hold a seal. Only time will tell. 

I can definitely say Stans tape is good stuff (minus the price), I have had the same strip of Stans tape on my front wheel for about a year and a half with multiple tire changes and haven't had any issues with significant air loss. I just check before each ride and its always good to go.

Hope this info was helpful.


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

Hopefully I'm understanding your question right, but the quick answer is probably no. But to further expound, The rim strips don't really require anything additional since they are usually thin enough to not interfere with the tire bead and rim interface.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

riding4life said:


> I can definitely say Stans tape is good stuff (minus the price), I have had the same strip of Stans tape on my front wheel for about a year and a half with multiple tire changes and haven't had any issues with significant air loss. I just check before each ride and its always good to go.


I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.

Stan's is easy to install and easy to remove. Some enjoy whimpering about the price, but for about $11, I can get two wheel sets (4 rims) that last for years. You can do the math.

If I could only get tires to last this long.


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.
> 
> Stan's is easy to install and easy to remove. Some enjoy whimpering about the price, but for about $11, I can get two wheel sets (4 rims) that last for years. You can do the math.
> 
> If I could only get tires to last this long.


I concur, its Good Quality. I have had to remove my stans tape from my rear wheel two occasions due to 1) having multiple spokes break on a ride and 2) getting a new rear hub; and I must say, It came off just as easily as it went on. Absolutely no complaints there!!! And I do agree again, yes the math is pretty good considering how long it will last.

I just enjoy finding new ways and options. But I guess the old saying can apply here, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

BUT.................

I was one of those kids that would take radios apart, toys, remote control cars, ect and tinker with them just to see what would happen and if I could get them to work again.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Speak of broken spokes and the emanate failure of the tape...

I have a rear wheel that broke a spoke (only one spoke) and it went through the tape. I had a weekend of rides planned with friends and being lazy and not really wanting to re-tape my wheel, I just placed a small piece of packaging tape over the hole. Reinstalled the tire and it held air, so I rode. That was just over two years ago and it's still holding air. I never re-taped the wheel.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

What is the point of buying tape that is not the proper width, and having to cut it to width with a razor blade? I've got better things to do with my time just to save a few bucks. False economy IMO. Use Stan's yellow tape.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Any tips on how to tape? I got some air bubbles in my Stan's yellow tape. Worked most of them out but some remain.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

MikeDee said:


> Any tips on how to tape? I got some air bubbles in my Stan's yellow tape. Worked most of them out but some remain.


Did you put a tube in overnight or even ride it with a tube at relatively high pressure for at least a day before?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

oops, double post


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

MikeDee said:


> What is the point of buying tape that is not the proper width, and having to cut it to width with a razor blade? I've got better things to do with my time just to save a few bucks. False economy IMO. Use Stan's yellow tape.


Because Tyvek is way cheaper, readily available at home depot, much longer roll, sticks to the rim better, easier to apply, and does not come off with the tire when i change tires. Worth it.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Jayem said:


> Did you put a tube in overnight or even ride it with a tube at relatively high pressure for at least a day before?


No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

dwyooaj said:


> Because Tyvek is way cheaper, readily available at home depot, much longer roll, sticks to the rim better, easier to apply, and does not come off with the tire when i change tires. Worth it.


Reading some of the posts in this thread, it doesn't seem it's all that great.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

MikeDee said:


> No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.


Mold the tape to the rim's contour?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kosulin (Apr 18, 2017)

literally said:


> yes they're molded to fit the inner rim profile perfectly.


Yes, these black plastic strips (endless loops) are made to fit specific rim only, are not sticky, and hold very well with my Bontrager 27.5 rims. Cannot be reused, but I never had to replace them yet. Bontrager also sells blue tape for wide rims; I use it with my carbon Line Pro 40 rims with no complaints. Not sure who the actual manufacturer of this blue tape is.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Deleted


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

riding4life said:


> I used the Tyvek tape on my new rear wheel on Friday, So far I have ridden 3 days, One jump/dirt park day and two days on the trails and have had absolutely no leaks at all, so in that aspect so far so good.
> 
> Now some of the issues I kept having during installation is the tape kept tearing when I was installing it onto the rim (tears very easily). I literally had to pull the the amount of tape needed off of the roll, have someone hold one end while I applied the other end to the rim.
> After I was satisfied that the tape was on properly I did attempt to remove the tape to see how well it came off and as I peeled evenly (only about .25 inch) it off it began to tear; at that point I stopped and reapplied that small piece.
> ...


In my experience tyvek isn't super difficult to remove from an aluminum rim, can't say for carbon. Yeah, it dies tend to tear a bit easily when applying, but I've found that you don't need to pull it as tight as Stan's when applying to get it to conform to the rim so that's mitigated. Just pull tight enough that it doesn't tear and carefully rub it down into the rim with a rag as you go. Then install a tire with a tube for a day or two to really seal it down.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

MikeDee said:


> No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.


The tube constrains the air so it will only be pushing in one direction against the top of the tape. If no tube initially, if there are any small wrinkles or bubbles or areas not adhered well, the air and sealant can potentially get underneath the tape and counteract this (and possibly even escape out a spoke hole) Using a tube ensures the pressure will push evenly in only one direction sealing the tape flat against the rim and pushing out and away any air trapped underneath and really sealing it down and flattening any bubbles before you put sealant in. Could you get away with not doing this if you did a perfect taping job? Probably. It's an extra step to ensure max performance and durability, and it's easy, so why not


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

MikeDee said:


> Reading some of the posts in this thread, it doesn't seem it's all that great.


Sure works well for me, and the OP sure seems to like it


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## EJ_92606 (Jul 11, 2004)

Stan's doesn't adhere well to my Enve Carbon rims.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ That is prolly the best reason that I've heard.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

dwyooaj said:


> The tube constrains the air so it will only be pushing in one direction against the top of the tape. If no tube initially, if there are any small wrinkles or bubbles or areas not adhered well, the air and sealant can potentially get underneath the tape and counteract this (and possibly even escape out a spoke hole) Using a tube ensures the pressure will push evenly in only one direction sealing the tape flat against the rim and pushing out and away any air trapped underneath and really sealing it down and flattening any bubbles before you put sealant in. Could you get away with not doing this if you did a perfect taping job? Probably. It's an extra step to ensure max performance and durability, and it's easy, so why not


I've never done the tube step in any tubeless setup I've ever done. Not even fat bike. Press bubbles out by hand. Mount tire, pour in sealant and set to full rated pressure. I don't shake or spin the wheel for a couple hours. Then shake/spin check for leaks and go ride. Knock on wood never had any issues since I ditched gorilla Tape for kapton tape a few years ago.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

boboxx said:


> I have and so far I'm impressed!
> 
> I just applied tape to a spare set for the photo here as the set I'm trying it on is all setup.
> 
> ...


Tried the same brand today and got to 30psi to set bead and the tape let go. It split along the bead shelf. It's pretty flexible so I didn't over stretch it when applied but it also didnt sit in the recess of the rim so that could have caused the split. It's to bad as it's a great price and perfect width for crest.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

machine4321 said:


> It split along the need shel.


Need shel? What?


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

I'm a roadie, so I deal with tubeless pressures between 55-70psi on 28mm tires. My favorite tape remains that 2mil green powder coat masking tape. It's stretchier and thinner than Stan's. Adheres well to carbon rims, but also not difficicult to remove. It's not quite as stretchy as the blue 3M/Scotch tape, but also won't split like those tapes.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Cleared2land said:


> Need shel? What?


Bead shelf. My phone is terrible lol


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

edubfromktown said:


> Thanks & good to know as well...
> 
> I ordered a roll of 8896 to use on my LB carbon and Stan's aluminum rims from now on.


My only tape "failure" to date was one wrap with a bit of overlap of appropriately sized Stan's tape on a LB carbon rim that lasted just over_ 5 years_. I cracked a 29er frame running that wheel set in less time  After a few tire replacements, I'm guessing the bead caught the edge of the tape and started pulling away over time.

I've been running two wraps of the 3m 8996 tape with Stan's sealant on a mix of LB carbon and Stan's ArchEX/Crest/FlowEX 29er rims with no issues.

The 3m tape is more flexible than Stan's tape and seems to be slightly narrower... less chance of catching/peeling maybe too I guess.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Combfilter, nice work on updates at the beginning. I never though I would use anything but Stans, but a few issues arose that caused me to buy so much tape, that I decided to try TYVEK. Works great. Stans is better, tougher, easier to use with the proper rim prep, but the cost per wheel is stupid. Too bad Stans does not sell a big roll of 40-50 yards for $20, along with their normal length offerings. I ended up taping about 10 wheels in the last year due to some tire failures/slashes, 2 sets of new rims(4), a carbon rim warranty, sold and bought ANOTHER set, etc etc. I was on a roll, and my STANS tape was lasting multiple tire changes, then boom! It hit me, 10 wheels recently. With my Newest DERBY set, I tried Orange seal, 18mm cover spoke holes only. Broke tape 1/2 way around first rim, thought, ok, this is more delicate. Single wrapped like STANS, but with Orange Seal the spoke hole ripped. Pretty lame. Double wrapped next time, seemed to solve any issues, but that tape is not for me. I dont care for taping spoke holes only, either. Even after proper prep, I had soapy water seep under tape. I barely soaped the beads with a damp sponge. It could have been a bad roll that I bought online, as it had a few bubles on NEW roll. I like the tape to be under the tire bead. So, In my opinion, the Orange Seal tape is not very good. I was not happy about buying STANS retail this morning, so instead, I stopped by Home Depot and bought TYVEK roll for $16. It is 50 meters for $16. Pretty sweet price. Its a bummer to cut it, so its not for everyone. I used new razor and a magazine that was the correct height. Also, I found it tends to rip, while wrapping on rim, so you cant manhandle it like STANs. I think cutting it on the rim after 2 wraps would have been easier than cutting the roll. Some people fail to understand that most rim walls form a perpendicular corner, while the tape can be applied so the side you are going to cut, CURVES up the rim wall, far from the corner you need to cut. This tape is brittle enough that you just drag a sharp razor along the apex of the tape, you dont need to apply cutting pressure to rim. After cutting apex, rub tape into the corner with a rag. The TYVEK tape is a bit trickier than STANS, but I like it. Thanks again. You saved me $30 in tape over the next year or 2. I cant wait to spend all the money I saved. But seriously, Stans just seemed like a rip off. If you ride 200 days per year, and take cool trips where you want fresh rubber, you will be switching alot of tires.


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

Please learn to use paragraphs and stop typing in a stream of consciousness.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Okay! (I dumbed it down for you).


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rodzilla said:


> Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.


Stucco MASKING Tapes have been the new goto for the past few years for sealing RVs and vehicles against the dust or holding on heat reflective covers at Burning Man. Holds in the dry desert heat & wind, releases easily without residue or surface damage after one to two weeks. PE444 and PE555 are both rated to 160F. 
Lots of elongation: 76% or 94%. 
Adhesion: 80/in or 92/in.
Bad: only rated down to freezing, if you're winter biking.


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Stucco MASKING Tapes have been the new goto for the past few years for sealing RVs and vehicles against the dust or holding on heat reflective covers at Burning Man. Holds in the dry desert heat & wind, releases easily without residue or surface damage after one to two weeks. PE444 and PE555 are both rated to 160F.
> Lots of elongation: 76% or 94%.
> Adhesion: 80/in or 92/in.
> Bad: only rated down to freezing, if you're winter biking.


Man, totally forgot about this stuff. I tried it out but couldn't get it to stick onto fhe rim surface.

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk


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## camus (Apr 21, 2004)

Thanks for the write up dude!

Getting a new ride soon with Roval 38mm inner width carbon rims on it.

Will Home Depot have the Tyvek tape in the right size?

Checked on Amazon and looks like you have to buy bulk amounts there.

Thanks for any help!


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Home Depot has 2 inch tyvek rolls. You'll need to cut, but it's incredibly easy to cut cleanly and straight.


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## camus (Apr 21, 2004)

One Pivot said:


> Home Depot has 2 inch tyvek rolls. You'll need to cut, but it's incredibly easy to cut cleanly and straight.


Cool. Thanks!

Yeah, screw the overpriced Stan's stuff. And the Gorilla tape is too thick (esp trying to mount some brands of tires). Curious to check out the Tyvek!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

camus said:


> Will Home Depot have the Tyvek tape in the right size?


For my fat-bike rims, yes.

For others, you stretch it over just the same, then use an x-acto knife to trim against the rim edge.


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

Alright heres my 3 week update, the rear wheel tyvek tape did not do the job. It worked great for 3 weeks and all of a sudden I lost all air on a ride and had to hike a bike for 2 miles (left my spare tube in the car).. 

I took the tire off and there were 2-3 points where the fluid was able to get under the tape and allow air out. Also When I removed the tape it left this horrible, difficult to remove residue around the entire rim. A Bit disappointing, but a good lesson learned.

With that said, I'm going back to Stans Tape. My Front wheel is still holding strong after close to 2 years and many tire changes.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

riding4life said:


> Alright heres my 3 week update, the rear wheel tyvek tape did not do the job. It worked great for 3 weeks and all of a sudden I lost all air on a ride and had to hike a bike for 2 miles (left my spare tube in the car)..
> 
> I took the tire off and there were 2-3 points where the fluid was able to get under the tape and allow air out. Also When I removed the tape it left this horrible, difficult to remove residue around the entire rim. A Bit disappointing, but a good lesson learned.
> 
> With that said, I'm going back to Stans Tape. My Front wheel is still holding strong after close to 2 years and many tire changes.


Stan's tape is reported to be Tesa 4289. Why waste your time with Tyvek tape? Try the Tesa tape if you want to save money (still needs to be cut to width though).


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Stan's tape..
About $2.75 per wheel.
Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Cleared2land said:


> Stan's tape..
> About $2.75 per wheel.
> Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?


If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

ka81ua said:


> If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...


Why double wrap? I haven't taped many wheels but it seems like it's about as straightforward and easy as it gets. Also I don't change my tires very often but after about a half dozen of them the tape still seems fine and I can't see why I couldn't change a half dozen more.

For sure I'm not opposed to saving money for an equal product but in the grand scheme of things wheel tape is a minor expense. I've gone through about $600 in tires with one $10 roll of stand tape.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Mavic EN 827
Michelin Force AM Competition Line GUM-X3D 27.5x2.35
So f...g hard to set, that only after one time the tape probably wil be cut a lot.

Yes, saving money here looks a little bit awkward but ... why not? If your friend will need some tape - you got it, 60 m for just 10$ (Tesa 4289).
And yes, Tesa 4289 is almost the same as Stan's! I got both of them.


p.s. sorry for bad english..


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## spartan_msu (May 8, 2008)

I can wholeheartedly NOT recommend Tyvek tape. I had mine last about 5 months on my fat bike before it failed (with 3 wraps of tape). It was an absolute nightmare to remove from the rim. No joke it took 3 hours and a combination of goo gone, mineral spirits, iso alcohol, and a flat bladed screwdriver to get all the residue off. I'm done being cheap!


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

...


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## riding4life (Jun 4, 2013)

MikeDee said:


> Stan's tape is reported to be Tesa 4289. Why waste your time with Tyvek tape? Try the Tesa tape if you want to save money (still needs to be cut to width though).


Its not a money issue, I'm just a tinkerer and like like trying different things out. Non related, but I in love with Maxxis Minion tires and swore thats all I'd ever use, but today I just bought a Maxxis Aggressor just to test it out. I already have some Stans tape so maybe the next go-round I'll use Tesa 4289.



Cleared2land said:


> Stan's tape..
> About $2.75 per wheel.
> Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?


No Issue, My other wheel has had stans on it for close to 2 years. Just trying new things.


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## chuckiebruster (Dec 5, 2016)

I use these with Stans Flow MK3. Best performance beating gorilla tape, stans tape, etc IMHO.

https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/2bliss-ready-rim-strip---each/p/134014


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Cleared2land said:


> Stan's tape..
> About $2.75 per wheel.
> Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?





ka81ua said:


> If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...


Just a brief repeat of my post #449...

I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.


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## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

Some updates with road carbon rims:

Deep channels can be a problem with Kapton. Pull it tight enough to stick to the channel and there's a high risk the tape will break at the valve stem hole. Maxi 248 has a different problem: while it's capable of being stretched smooth, it doesn't stick well enough to maintain tension. I wasn't able to successfully overlap without a short crinkled section underneath.

Tyvek is *much* stickier than Kapton, about the same thickness, and a bit more flexible, but also tears more easily. It only comes in 48mm width. I ruined a roll trying to narrow it with a box cutter. A tiny misalignment in my cut meant every turn of the roll caused the tape to shear at an angle. Very frustrating. I'd probably like it (though not much more than Kapton) if it came in 25mm width.

I went back to Kapton with a different approach:

* Full width, because I discovered sealant seepage when I removed my narrower tape, and if the tape extends beyond the channel without going full-width, changing tires will abrade the edge. Kapton is thin enough not to excessively pad the bead shelf. 
* Moderate tension, to reduce stress at the valve stem.
* Two layers, for strength, and because Kapton is thin and weighs nothing. 
* Suspended above the channel, because the only place the tape actually has to touch the channel is at the valve stem.
* With a short piece of Gorilla tap at the valve stem added before making the puncture.

This works perfectly and it's what I intend to do with all of my rims, mountain included, the future.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Tips for Tyvek users:
- don't pull the tape that hard, you don't need to. Pull the amount you need with just enough tension and push it down as you go around. Watch the stans tape install video, do the same thing but at 1/4 the power he is using
- do two layers. It's so light it still ends up being lighter than tesa and the others.
- They sell 1.88" rolls on amazon that can managed a little easier. The benefit of getting the bigger roll at homedepot is you can offset your cuts. Like I just eyeball about 1/3 of the way down. The top half is for my 25mm internal width rims, and the bottom 1/2 is for my road tubeless rims which are 17mm. If it's a little bigger I just let it overlap and go around with a blade and cut at the beadwall. Yes on carbon, don't be a little bish..it wont hurt if you do it careful.

Why use tyvek? because i've done this a long long time. It's the lightest and easist tape that forms very well to the channel, sticks on and stays on thru multiple tire changes, works with 60psi pressures of road tubeless or 17psi pressures of mtb, is cheap, it does not leave residue for me...not sure whats going on with the one guy that was bishing about tyvek leaving tape behind. Remember that very first tyvek post on that enve rim from 8/14/14?? That tape is still on that rim and I have changed tires on that wheel about 8-10x's at least with no issues. Yes I change that much.. 

So that leads to my next point. I started this thread from the eyes of a tubeless convert that wanted tape that worked. I race both XC and Road and use tubless on both. When you pop the tire to top of stans or change it you often with stans tape , would peel that tape back a bit when you do that. This leads to stans getting under the tape and eventually leaking out. I hate this aspect of tubeless. Tyvek works the best for me and my applications which again is XC racing and Road. I am not riding fat bikes in Alaska or Enudro Bro **** in NC. You guys might require different tapes than I do. 

Tyvek is not the end all be all either. Rim strips work very well, but again I am racer boy Weight Weenie. 

Buying stans tape is retarded when you think about how little you get for what price.. Thus another good thing about this thread.. You have access to the same stuff a lot cheaper.

hope that clears the air about tyvek.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Anyone notice this with Kapton tape?

I use my own version of stans sauce. (BAMF's v.2.0) from the giant tubless thread. I believe stans home brew and orange seal are deteriorating the kapton tape. Wish I had a pic. I put kapton on another wheelset a bit ago just to test out and opened it up and it looked like the tape was like almost dissolved or deteriorated. I am guessing it's probably the ammonia in the home brew/orange seal?


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

combfilter said:


> Anyone notice this with Kapton tape?
> 
> I use my own version of stans sauce. (BAMF's v.2.0) from the giant tubless thread. I believe stans home brew and orange seal are deteriorating the kapton tape. Wish I had a pic. I put kapton on another wheelset a bit ago just to test out and opened it up and it looked like the tape was like almost dissolved or deteriorated. I am guessing it's probably the ammonia in the home brew/orange seal?


I reported the same problem some time back, I included pictures on my post.
Luckily I was just testing the tape on my rims without spoke holes, so apart from have to clean the rim, I didn't had any bad surprise.

EDIT: it was on post #363


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

alexdi, I tried kapton tape for Road tubeless and found it was too stretchy and wrinkled easily as a result. Try the green powder coat masking tape for something with medium stretch and decent, but not overkill adhesive. It comes in 1” width, perfect for most road rims. It has just enough stretch to form into the center channel with decent pull force. It doesn’t split or tear easily like 3M 8898. It’s stretchier than Stan’s/Tesa 4289.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Like this Combfilter? These were on the previous page. @Aglo was describing the same thing. Obviously, something isn't getting along with the Kapton tape.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Edit: Didn't see that @Aglo had posted.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

yup just like that guys ^^^^^^ 
Mine did the same thing. I wonder if the people that are NOT experiencing this are using sealant that is ammonia free?


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

Isn’t Orange Seal ammonia free?


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Combfilter! Thanks for the update. Im so stoked you took the time to write your timeline on this. Stans tape is such a rip off, but I only use 1 or 2 rolls a year, its so tempting to buy it. I am now on Tyvek. That dude that had problems was creeping me out, but now I am stoked. I am about 3 months into Tyvek, double wrap on Derby Carbon rims (35mm outer). No issues for me. Will post after tire change in a week or 2. Thanks again.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Kapton tape adhesive fail is interesting. Mine has been holding up fine for a couple of years with Stan's sealant on both road and mtb. Could it be different adhesives?


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Thanks to everyone on this thread, its good info. I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean. It works great, is light weight, but STANS comes off clean. I just bought 60 yards of Stans to lower cost per wheel to about $1.60. As a professional house painter, I prep my wheels really well, and maybe thats why TYVEK residue would not come off. It is also the reason my Stans stcks really well to rim (not as well as Tyvek). As others have stated, I too change tires often, and sometimes Stans does not last more than 2 or 3 tires. It just depends on rim material, and tire manufacture's bead size/style. By the way, After seeing Tyvek mess, I took tire off other rim, which I had mounted with Tyvek just last night, and it was a messy residue after only 16 hours. Tyvek is a good solution to Stans cost, but Its not as good as Stans for my setup. Also, Tyvek may be good on my extra bike, where tires last 1-2 years, and I will never clean residue on that aluminum wheelset.


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

chuckiebruster said:


> I use these with Stans Flow MK3. Best performance beating gorilla tape, stans tape, etc IMHO.
> 
> https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/2bliss-ready-rim-strip---each/p/134014


I'm interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape I've tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape I've found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Haggis said:


> I'm interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape I've tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape I've found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.


Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Haggis (Jan 21, 2004)

Shadow4eva said:


> Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope, but good thought. It happens when forcing the tyre into the centre to break the bead seal, with hands only. I generally get away without using levers at all, unless it's a particularly new tyre or tight bead.


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## AdmChr (Oct 10, 2009)

hoolie said:


> View attachment 1210918
> I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean...


i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the time comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

A.Christopher said:


> i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the times comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??


Use a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive as you are taking off the tape and it will peal off fairly clean. Anything that is left can also be heated up and peeled off with your finger nail.

After tape is removed you can use Goo Gone to remove any left over adhesive, just make sure to clean off Goo Gone really good with something like Windex/alcohol before re-taping.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Hair dryer may be a good solution. This continues to be a great thread. I used adhesive remover, after trying laquer thinner on a 1 inch test section did not work, plus I was a bit worried about using laquer thinner on carbon rims. Stans is so easy to remove. Stans is so easy to apply. My issue with Stans tape, as Comfilter points out, its pretty expensive tape. I have not used Gorrilla tape, but after dealing with the Tyvek mess I would not hesitate to use Gorilla tape. But I just bought 60 yards of Stans tape. Done!


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## Redlands R&C (Dec 14, 2013)

I "thought" my newer bike had pre-taped rims (Sun Ringle Duroc 40's) but low and behold, I pull the tire off and sure enough, cloth rim strip. Wanting to setup tubeless for a trip this weekend and gotta swing near home depot tonight anyway. I'm more interested in trying the Tyvek rather than Gorilla, but I can at least pick them both up at HD.
This Tyvek should work fine, correct? Rim bed is clean, bike is only a month old and has been ridden lightly so far. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-HomeWrap-2-in-x-164-ft-Installation-Tape-D13841470/100422453


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding. 

I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?

Are you people buying $500 mountain bikes and Wally World tires? Prolly NOT! Tape cost is chump change compared to the cost of playing this game. I can go through a set of high-end tires in one season and my tape jobs will last for years. Where's the real expense?


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.

It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Cleared2land said:


> Where's the real expense?


Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just *the same* Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Cost may be an element, but some people also enjoy experimentation and get satisfaction from hacking things.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Cleared2land said:


> Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.
> 
> I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.
> 
> ...


Agree with the exception that Stan's does not work well on some rims.

It works perfectly on Stan's rims as you'd expect but I've had it not adhere to DT rims and carbon rims. For those I've always had excellent results with Gorilla tape.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just *the same* Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?


Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

MikeDee said:


> Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.


You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.

EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Aglo said:


> You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.
> 
> EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.


Stan's comes in 12, 21, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36, and 39.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Uhmm, I bought 60m roll with 32 mm width. They (where I bought it) asked me what width do I want and I got it, without any extra cost..


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

One Pivot said:


> I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.
> 
> It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.


This is exactly why I tried Tyvek, and it works well.


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

ninjichor said:


> Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.


I have the M1900 wheelset and while it came with DT Swiss tape, it wasn't pre-installed. My experience with DT Swiss tape is disappointing and I won't be using it again.

When new on the roll, the tape is black. While installing the tape, as I pulled I noticed the tape developed "stretch marks" that were yellow. Here's what the tape looks like after a couple of weeks with Stan's fluid. Horrible.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Ordered some kapton/polyimide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.


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## RacerLex (Jan 20, 2010)

The black ink flaking off was a mess to deal with during a trail-side flat. The tape didn't stick as well as Stans either.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

ninjichor said:


> Ordered some kapton/polyamide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.


Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

kwapik said:


> Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.


To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

ninjichor said:


> To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).


My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Aglo said:


> My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.


Are you using tape just to "protect" the rim from sealant? I have a set of UST Easton Havens and I never thought about using tape on it. xD

Using a few month old bottle of TruckerCo cream, but once I'm out I plan to switch to the Bontrager style home brew (half 50:50 water/RV antifreeze mix, half latex mold builder, and corn meal).


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Aglo said:


> No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
> Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.


The ammonia in that formula is the small amount of ammonia in the latex mold builder. Stan's uses different aggregate--whatever their crystals are vs the corn meal (or ground pepper in E13 tire plasma). The antifreeze-water mix is there to carry the aggregate to the punctures, and the latex helps to dry it into a clot that seals punctures.

Your speculation that ammonia affects the tape has some merit. I found this, when I went to verify:


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## ElwoodT (Mar 13, 2011)

J.B. Weld said:


> 1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.


9x the price for an equivilant product? between kids and buddies I've taped a dozen plus tires in my last 5000 miles. The ony weakness in my opinion is if and when you have to put a tube in, there's a chance of failure when you go back to tubeless, but I believe this to be a problem with most of these options (am I wrong?)....
jvcc polypro strapping tape from amazon:
Great stuff. You need to go around the rim twice because this stuff is about 1/2 thick as the stan strapping tape in thickness, but it works great on alum. rims and is cheap.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

ElwoodT said:


> 9x the price for an equivilant product?


No doubt if I were using a bunch I'd think twice about it but @ ~$3 per year rim tape is one of the lowest cost and least time consuming maintenance items on my bike. Unfortunately I've had to install plenty of tubes in the last few years but no tape damage yet.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

It's less about the money savings for me regarding why I am using tyvek.. It has EVERYTHING to do with the tyvek tape lasting longer, being lighter, laying down better in the groove, and not bubbling than stans strapping tape. Don't get me wrong.. I can lay down stans strapping tape like a pro. The issue with stans with me is that I change tires a lot and I also check my sealant levels a lot. The stans strapping tape tends to start to peel up as you pop the bead off the tire after about 5 to 6 months for me. It's like the adhesive and heat of TX start to lose their grip. With me changing tires depending if I am riding TX,Ar, La, etc, and the fact I used different tires depending on the conditions means I am changing tires about every 3-4mo. Also as we knows sealant doesn't tend to last. So about every 3mo I'll top off the sealant and I don't like having to worry if the tape will peel back. I have one wheel with tyvek that's years old and the tape is still good. I've changed tires on that rim countless times. On the flip side, yes there is even 1x I've had to replace tyvek tape after about 1yr on another wheelset. It happens but not often. With stans tape (even from factory) it happens all the time. Thus my reason right there. The cost savings is a bonus. Obviously the crappy part is cutting the tape down to size. 1st world problems i guess.


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## plummet (Jul 8, 2005)

Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.

Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

plummet said:


> Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.
> 
> Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?


Just read the first post. It's very informative and should help you out.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

There will prolly never be a clear winner...not collectively speaking.


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## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

...


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

hoolie said:


> Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !


Can confirm that Vittoria TNT beads push around the edge of the rim tape. It's what messed up the Tyvek tape I tried, and led me to try out DT. It's the front setup too (Goma); rear Tyvek setup with Michelin not needing any attention.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

I don't want to reread this whole thread but powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications. https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Ma..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5GK3QVQK6P24N36ZPE20


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MikeDee said:


> ... powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications...


The powder coat masking tapes have good tensile strength ~50 lbs/in, but adhesion can vary from 20 lbs/in to 44 lbs/in; "stretchier than Stans", no surprise there with elongation from 90% to 148%. 
3m 8898 is 160 lbs/in tensile and adhesion of 65 lbs/in, elongation 32%. 
Kapton that some report good results with, is 50 lbs/in and adhesion of 25 lbs/in, elongation >50%.


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## alexdi (Jun 25, 2016)

ceugene said:


> Try the green powder coat masking tape for something with medium stretch and decent, but not overkill adhesive. It comes in 1" width, perfect for most road rims. It has just enough stretch to form into the center channel with decent pull force. It doesn't split or tear easily like 3M 8898. It's stretchier than Stan's/Tesa 4289.


I'll make a note.

I just did my 39-internal carbon rim with 24mm 8898. Super strong, very sticky, quite light, not much stretch. (Doesn't seem like it'd be prone to splitting or tearing, I was really pulling on it.) Much thicker than Kapton, a bit thicker than Tyvek. Fine for this wheel (most anything is, the existing Kapton looked great and came off without issue; swapped mostly to experiment), but there's no way it'd fill a deep channel like Stan's. Also a bit more translucent.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

wtb's new system looks very interesting: https://www.wtb.com/pages/product_technology

stretchy flextape (sounds easy to install) goes over a solid strip that covers the spoke holes. Too bad id have to get their new rims to use it!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Anyone find anything that takes off gorilla tape adhesive good yet? I been using it for years but the rim I just peeled it off of is insane. I bet half the rim bed is coated in it. I've never had more than a strip or so needing to be cleaned off.

Also I normally use OS but used Stans since I was in a pinch. I'm wondering if that why the tape was falling apart inside. Tires only been on for 6 months maybe and fresh tape then.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

summary: use tape itself as a blotter, mineral spirits, citrus remover. 





My tape table lists its adhesive as "rubber" (vs. synthetic rubber, acrylic or silicone, for others). I don't remember the source.

Other recommendations found: acetone, WD40, coconut oil.

I won't touch Gorilla Tape, as its adhesion force is too variable roll to roll, and may (or not) release in hot weather. Your guess as to what adhesion & release you'll get, ~= not reliable. Love Gorilla Glue.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

So I was able to use a piece of hard plastic tube to remove the thick residue. Kind of pushed it and rolled it at the same time at a angle and it cleared the belly in my EX471s pretty well. Brake cleaned on a rag took the rest off. Huge PITA though, I've never had the tape come off and leave the grey adhesive behind.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

dirtrider76 said:


> So I was able to use a piece of hard plastic tube to remove the thick residue. Kind of pushed it and rolled it at the same time at a angle and it cleared the belly in my EX471s pretty well. Brake cleaned on a rag took the rest off. Huge PITA though, I've never had the tape come off and leave the grey adhesive behind.


Imho, that's what ghetto tubeless does if gorilla tape was used.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

dirtrider76 said:


> Anyone find anything that takes off gorilla tape adhesive good yet? I been using it for years but the rim I just peeled it off of is insane. I bet half the rim bed is coated in it. I've never had more than a strip or so needing to be cleaned off.
> 
> Also I normally use OS but used Stans since I was in a pinch. I'm wondering if that why the tape was falling apart inside. Tires only been on for 6 months maybe and fresh tape then.


I went through the same effort a while ago. Just a lot of knuckle grease (elbow grease). Good Gone and a few layers of skin and rim was as good a new. haha Not a challenge I want to accept again!


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Is gorilla tape different in some states?

I tried it once and couldn't understand why anyone would put it on a wheel. It made a terrible mess and it's crazy thick. The one I got was perforated and basically a sealant sponge. It soaked up a bunch, swelled and turned to goop.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ that's been my experience in the East Coast, Midwest, and other geographic locations; soaks up sealant, develops leaks, adhesive oozes out and attaches to the tire bead so the tape is pulled up when you change a tire, huge PITA to clean off the rim... And, depending on the rim and tire, it's so thick it may make it nearly impossible to seat the bead.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I'm pretty sure the tape did what it did due to using Stans in the wheel. I typically use OS and never had this happen before. Typically I can just peel off the old gorilla tape and just wipe the rim clean. This time the tape literally was just falling apart.


On my EX471's Gorilla tape works perfect but my Spank rims there's no way I could get a tire on with Gorilla tape. Sadly the LBS didn't have any Stans tape in the right width so I gorilla taped my wheel again and used OS this time.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

Tesa 4289 same as Stans but 1/10 the cost. I have used this for over 5 years many sets of wheels . Once installed PROPERLY, I have never an issue with it coming off by itself or leaving any residue when I peel it off.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

teK-- said:


> Tesa 4289 same as Stans but 1/10 the cost.


Provide a link where you buy it and the cost for how much tape.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I bought 4289 - 32x66 m for about 11$ at some my local company.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

teK-- said:


> Tesa 4289 same as Stans


Nope, actually as WTB

BTW, got Tesa 64284, some say even better than 4289.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

ka81ua said:


> BTW, got Tesa 64284, even better than 4289.


Curious, why is it better. I see it's thinner, has less adhesion, and lighter duty than #4289. Not trolling, just want to find out how it works.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I don't know why but it applies with less amount of bubbles and much easier on "nonstandart-shaped" rims.



--
sorry for bad angl.


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## jimarin (Mar 19, 2005)

Can anyone provide a link to buy the 30mm Tesa tape?

Thanks


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

jimarin said:


> Can anyone provide a link to buy the 30mm Tesa tape?
> 
> Thanks


I'm interested too. I've never been able to source any. Only found 19mm, 25mm and 50mm.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

For those in Europe I found an ebay seller with 21mm x 66m, 23mm x 66m, 25mm x 66m, 27mm x 66m, 30mm x 66m, 33mm x 66m, 36mm x 66m, 39mm x 66m.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I actually don't understand a problem. In my area, they don't sell it by sizes, you can ask whatever size you whant and you'll get it. A lot of small companies sell all that type of goods (tapes,...).


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

I also did found some online sellers where you can choose anything between 1mm and, if I'm not mistaken, 1115mm. But none that would ship to my country, or would sell a single roll.


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## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

So I was using the Tessa tape, I posted about it in this thread a year or so back.

I got it from a guy on eBay from the UK.
Looks like he is no longer there

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-4289-N...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3a9d40c423

Where is everyone getting their Tessa tape from now?


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

lardo5150 said:


> So I was using the Tessa tape, I posted about it in this thread a year or so back.
> 
> I got it from a guy on eBay from the UK.
> Looks like he is no longer there
> ...


R2bike


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Here's a source for US buyers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-4289-...4b45f3c552:g:UMAAAOSwJtJcNmz9&redirect=mobile


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

I have been using gorilla tape for awhile now its been great. But once you change tires the tape seems to shift over easily. So you have to re tape every time. Not much residue is left so easy clean up. I'm going to try some tyvek tape on top to see if it stops the shifting of the gorilla tape. Has anyone tried this yet?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

caRpetbomBer said:


> I have been using gorilla tape for awhile now its been great. But once you change tires the tape seems to shift over easily. So you have to re tape every time.


Re-taping after every tire change does seem like that Gorilla tape has been great.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ har!


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

On my latest setup I switched it around a bit and cut gorilla tape just wide enough to cover the spoke holes and on top of that I ran a edge to edge layer of stans, got 34mm tape I believe and had to trim maybe 2mm off one side but I like tape edge to edge. Tires come off easy without damaging anything and I got an extra layer where I think it’s needed, on top of the spoke holes.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I've never seen a situation where Stan's or other appropriate tape needed reinforcement over the spoke holes, especially on a mountain bike, since you can use it up to 120 psi on road bikes. Some build up the center of the rim to help a tire catch air when installing it. Otherwise, I don't believe it serves any useful purpose. Personally, having a fair amount of experience with Gorilla tape, it doesn't get anywhere near my tires or wheels for reasons that have been widely described in this thread.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

Anyone have luck with the Kapton tape from china on ebay? I like how kapton tape comes in all different sizes. Going to give it a try.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

caRpetbomBer said:


> Anyone have luck with the Kapton tape from china on ebay? I like how kapton tape comes in all different sizes. Going to give it a try.


Kapton tape doesn't always work with certain sealants. See post #363 on page 4.


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## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

kwapik said:


> Kapton tape doesn't always work with certain sealants. See post #363


cool thanks. I think i have used kapton tape before it comes stock with American classic wheels. I used it with stans sealant and never had any problems.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> I've never seen a situation where Stan's or other appropriate tape needed reinforcement over the spoke holes, especially on a mountain bike, since you can use it up to 120 psi on road bikes. Some build up the center of the rim to help a tire catch air when installing it. Otherwise, I don't believe it serves any useful purpose. Personally, having a fair amount of experience with Gorilla tape, it doesn't get anywhere near my tires or wheels for reasons that have been widely described in this thread.


Had a spoke break on a long high speed DH. It punched right through the Stans tape and promptly let all the air out my tire at about 30 mph on a twisty road. Stans gets double wrapped if I use it.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

dirtrider76 said:


> Had a spoke break on a long high speed DH. It punched right through the Stans tape and promptly let all the air out my tire at about 30 mph on a twisty road. Stans gets double wrapped if I use it.


Had that happened to me, but just JRA on pavement. Broke at the elbow, on a Stan's wheel. Had a Cushcore in it too, ugh... didn't have a tube with a stem long enough to poke through the cushcore and be inflatable, and didn't want to carry a slimy piece of foam, so I walked. Told myself to carry a rimtape repair kit. xD

I've been eyeing the Spec 2bliss rim strip for a while now.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Kapton tape is what I've used for the past 4 years, road and mtb, with no issues using Stan's. I use two layers for road. Kapton refers to the plastic film material. Adhesives can differ, but generally are silicone based.


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## Scot 2 (Apr 13, 2009)

*The right size tyvek tape to date for multi tubless applications*

FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -

NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -

CHECK OUT: Lineco Tyvek Tape - 1" x 50 Yards MFR # 804-0150

This should cover MOST Mountain, Road, & Gravel applications at 25mm width.

In my experience DT SWISS uses Tyvek with branding printed on throughout the tape?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Scot 2 said:


> FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -
> 
> NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -
> 
> ...


Are we sure the lineco tyvek tape is the exact same thing as the tyvek tape from home depot?


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## Scot 2 (Apr 13, 2009)

Based on preliminary background of product it appears that is the same, I ordered a roll of the 1 inch (25 mm) to see for myself. The DT Swiss tape I like working with, but its very pricey. This would be a win win since I ordered a 150 ft roll for $18.


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## TimTucker (Nov 9, 2011)

Scot 2 said:


> Based on preliminary background of product it appears that is the same, I ordered a roll of the 1 inch (25 mm) to see for myself. The DT Swiss tape I like working with, but its very pricey. This would be a win win since I ordered a 150 ft roll for $18.


Any updates? From the details, it sounds like it's tape made from Tyevk fibers rather than tape intended to adhere to Tyvek.


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## TimTucker (Nov 9, 2011)

FYI, for anyone interested, Walmart has 5 yard rolls of 1.5" / 38mm Gorilla Crystal Clear Tape on clearance -- I was able to pick some up for $0.50 each and I see many stores around here that still show some left for $1:
https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker?sku=48810480

Debating on using that as-is vs. cutting down Tyvek for a new i40 wheelset.


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## JimF777 (Sep 23, 2018)

Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid. 

Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

JimF777 said:


> Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid.
> 
> Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?


Do you think leaking between tape and stem or fluid getting in behind the tape then out the rim's stem hole?

Which tape?
Old/new stock? (old adhesive)
Tape pressed down well enough?

Which stem?
Tight enough?
Did you make the hole in the tape by forcing something through or heat something and melt a nice smooth-edged tear-free hole?

I've wondered about using a dab of silicone around the hole before inserting the stem, but I've never gone there.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

JimF777 said:


> Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid.
> 
> Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?


After taping, how to you make the hole for the tubeless valve?


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## JimF777 (Sep 23, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Do you think leaking between tape and stem or fluid getting in behind the tape then out the rim's stem hole?
> 
> Which tape? *Gorilla Tape (front wheel seems to be holding with same tape)*
> Old/new stock? (old adhesive) *Just applied*
> ...





kwapik said:


> After taping, how to you make the hole for the tubeless valve? *See above, the razor.*


I took the tape off that I had applied the night before thinking maybe I didn't put it on well enough. I sprayed the wheel down with water and a bit of dish soap, blew it out with air, then wiped down the inner surface with rubbing alcohol. I applied the tape keeping it pretty taunt, pushing it down the center first then the sides as I went. No one has ever instructed me on this so I"m assuming it's correct.

Any tips are GREATLY appreciated.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Sounds like you applied it right. I stopped cutting an "x" for the valve stem hole and now use a heated metal rod and burn/melt the hole. A lot cleaner looking and appears to work better for me.

The silicone is not a bad idea if all else fails.


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
That's the secret for any tape.


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## JimF777 (Sep 23, 2018)

cadoretteboat said:


> No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
> That's the secret for any tape.


Hey, that makes sense! 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## frdfandc (Sep 5, 2007)

I've used the Stan's tape with mixed results, so I've switched to Gorilla Tape. I use the hook end of a tire lever to push the tape down into position. This method has worked for me over the past 5-6 years.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

So you have some tips.

Silicone under the outside nut is trying to contain it after it's leaked inside. I'd have some between the tape and the step base. 

Gorilla Tape: too hit and miss, or works for a while then suddenly fails. They won't publish actual tape specs like real manufacturers do. Independent tests give widely varying results for adhesion and strength. Wonder if they just sub it. Or used to sub it. I've never figured out if it's their production quality control, shipping/storage conditions, or old stock. This is for the usual Gorilla Tape. Clear seems much more consistent.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

frdfandc said:


> I've used the Stan's tape with mixed results, so I've switched to Gorilla Tape. I use the hook end of a tire lever to push the tape down into position. This method has worked for me over the past 5-6 years.


Gorilla tape has always worked well for me. While not perfect its been better than many other alternatives listed in this thread, that I've tried.

I did recently purchase that 1" Tyvek tape and might give that a shot.


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## JimF777 (Sep 23, 2018)

Canoe said:


> So you have some tips.
> 
> Silicone under the outside nut is trying to contain it after it's leaked inside. I'd have some between the tape and the step base.
> 
> ...


Yup, the choice to put under the nut was after the fact of it leaking again. I figured the next time I try (which may be right after this posting) I'll put it between the tape and base.


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## ciernik (Nov 30, 2017)

Hi. My question is a bit related with tapes. 
Im owner of marin sam quentin 3 and wanted to install tubeless. After partially remowing tire i saw i have something different than regular band on my rim.
Is this rim taped and i need just valve and sealant or should i tape it anyway?
Did someone install already tubeless in san quentin?
Cheers guys!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

you look ready to go.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

You'll find out real quick if it's tubeless ready once you put the sealant in  You could also call/email Marin to be sure.


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## ciernik (Nov 30, 2017)

Thanks for replies. 
I emailed them. But polish distributor isnt shure and tells to as some mechanic. Official marin tells to tape and everything but tape to seal need to be glued to metal surface for me. And i have no metal surface there


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Look for how the tape is made. If it's made from a long piece that is glued to itself, with an overlap joint, and is thick, it's not good. The tire will have trouble sealing at the overlap point unless you taper it. Also check for the valve hole in the rim strip. If it is thick, it might need to be sanded/filed to have greater surface contact that is even with the tubeless valve.

Safer to properly tape it, but if the rim strip was thick, the tire might feel a little loose as it was stretched for the original rim strip. If the tape is 1-piece with no joint, and is thin, able to conform well to valve, I would try it out of curiosity. It may be as good as Specialized 2-bliss rim strip, which doesn't use adhesive, but works okay.

BTW, great bike choice!


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## ciernik (Nov 30, 2017)

Thanks ninjichor. 
On spec they wrote that it is tubeless „compatibile”. Only god knows what does it mean. For me tubeles „ready” rim should be just put valve, milk and you can go but it is not so obvious.
I will try just to pour milk and we will see. Will write somethink after this experiment. 
Thanks!


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Scot 2 said:


> FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -
> 
> NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -
> 
> ...


So I double checked up on this as it would be great to not have to cut Tyvek sheathing tepe down to size.

The tape you mentioned here is actually made of Tyvek and it not meant to sheath or seal tyvek insulation boards together. It's literally made from the insulation that's in tyvek. So it's not the same as the Tyvek tape we are all referring to.

Tyvek Sheathing tape is different than this tape.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Ive tried Tyvek and Krapton tape with a lot of success, until I started to use Cushcore. The installation and removal is pretty though on tape. So with every tire switch (I change them often) I'd have to retape the rim. Back on Gorrila Black for now.


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## JimF777 (Sep 23, 2018)

It's not always the tape.

I thought I was going nuts or just plain suck at what should be simple. 
I've redone the tape twice, put a dab of silicone between the valve seat and tape, and still, the tire is basically flat by the second morning.

I was about to rip it apart again, clean out all the sealant, tape it again and go for the inner tube tip mentioned earlier (still going to toolbox that one). But first, I wanted to see the air coming out from the valve stem area. So to the bathtub I went....old school.

Was NOT prepared for what I saw. Bad tape job? Nope. Crap wheel? Nope (well, maybe but it's not the problem). Cheap tires? Definitely. Couldn't get a pic and video is too big to upload so I through it on a server.

Take a look and tell me if this happens often. Note: I haven't ridden these tires on a real ride yet, they've been leaking since first install. They are leaking from the sidewall.

[video]http://countertopstories.com/MTB/LeakySidewall.mp4[/video]


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

JimF777 said:


> .... Take a look and tell me if this happens often. ...


Tubeless-ready - NOT.

Some people spin the tire flat and the sidewall-weeping will seal with sealant.

Others report they always have some sealant leakage.

Others need to clean, dry, then apply diluted rubber cement on the inside.

search/google to get the dilution (I can't recall, even though I did it...)


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Dropout33 said:


> Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.


Would be curious on how this would do with Carbon Rims.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I've seen a fair number of tires leak air through the sidewall, but usually have gotten it to stop by shaking the tire/wheel so as to splash the sidewalls with sealant. Going for a ride on rough terrain can do it too. Some tires are hopeless.

Leaking sealant and weeping sealant are usually different things. Weeping is clear oily, water soluble liquid appearing on the tire, usually the sidewalls, and not usually accompanied by unusual loss in tire pressure. This is propylene glycol diffusing through the tire. It seems in the last couple of years tires have gotten way better in this regard.


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## Cycloid (Apr 11, 2016)

Heavenly Father, forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere, but ...

After many successful tubeless setups, I gots to wonderin' ... if I set up yet another pair of Mulefut 80s with SunRingle tape, and there are some stubborn hold-out bubbles here and there, can I just pop them with a very fine pin and flatten them? Wouldn't Orange Seal take care of the tiny holes, and wouldn't this maximize tape adhesion?

Yes, I am aware of replacing the tube and reinflating overnight and all that wonderfulness, but I'm curious what people think about me ... um ... being a prick.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Cycloid said:


> Heavenly Father, forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere, but ...
> 
> After many successful tubeless setups, I gots to wonderin' ... if I set up yet another pair of Mulefut 80s with SunRingle tape, and there are some stubborn hold-out bubbles here and there, can I just pop them with a very fine pin and flatten them? Wouldn't Orange Seal take care of the tiny holes, and wouldn't this maximize tape adhesion?
> 
> Yes, I am aware of replacing the tube and reinflating overnight and all that wonderfulness, but I'm curious what people think about me ... um ... being a prick.


Is the tape bead to bead?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

In my experience, sealant prevents tape adhesion. Minor bubbles of air trapped between layers of tape should be fine as there's no path for air or sealant. I would recommend against creating paths by poking holes in the tape.


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## Cycloid (Apr 11, 2016)

NordieBoy said:


> Is the tape bead to bead?


SunRingle tape on Mulefut80 ... so the tape covers over the bottom of the bead lock channel (and all those silly little holes), up to the base of the side of the rim.


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## Cycloid (Apr 11, 2016)

Lone Rager said:


> In my experience, sealant prevents tape adhesion. Minor bubbles of air trapped between layers of tape should be fine as there's no path for air or sealant. I would recommend against creating paths by poking holes in the tape.


Okay, that sounds logical. And to back what you are saying, I've successfully set up and ridden on many tubeless wheels, all with some bubbles, and never had a problem, so I'll stick with success. I was really just wondering, so I appreciate the input


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

My recommendation is for you to stop being a prick as it can cause bad karma later on .


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## Norcal Mtb Addict (Nov 4, 2018)

Anyone ever use the black Tesa 4288 tape?? I know people use the yellow 4289. Just curious because a set of rims i bought came with black tape that looks exactly like the 4288. Im almost certain its the same stuff, i should be getting it in the mail tomorrow. Just curious if anyone has any experience with it.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.


i wonder if thats rebranded tyvek


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

dwyooaj said:


> i wonder if thats rebranded tyvek


It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

I just bought this to do some wheels for my buddy and it is exactly like the Frost king tape.http://https://www.amazon.com/MD-04630-100-feet-Transparent-Weather-Strip/dp/B002TH31OY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=frost+king+tape&qid=1555382332&s=gateway&sr=8-3


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.


 Interesting. Is a tad stretchy/rubbery like tyvek so easy to lay down?
As strong or stronger than tyvek re: psi at spoke holes? does not lift up like stans tape when changing tires? How much ride time have you had with it?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.


also, is this it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...lear-Plastic-Weather-Seal-Tape-T96H/100175156


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Norcal Mtb Addict said:


> Anyone ever use the black Tesa 4288 tape?? I know people use the yellow 4289. Just curious because a set of rims i bought came with black tape that looks exactly like the 4288. Im almost certain its the same stuff, i should be getting it in the mail tomorrow. Just curious if anyone has any experience with it.


Tesa 4288 is basically the same as 4289 except for few differences.

* The color 
* Thickness 
* 4288 has less tensile strength than Tesa 4289. 300N/cm vs 420N/cm

It does work fine. Just not as well as 4289.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.


Thanks for the info. Im gonna try it next time.


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## twodogsfighting (May 10, 2015)

Anyone know where I can get the right tyvek tap in the UK?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.


Is this the same thing, from Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-T...locphy=9031545&hvtargid=pla-308511233410&th=1


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.


i just got the frost king tape from amazon. Didnt apply yet but it seems quite stretchy and easier to break with my fingernail than the tyvek. Does frost king make a different tape or is that right? Realized youre using it with fat tires at low psi; I run 2.4-2.5 with 20-29 psi. Thanks.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

does anybody know what's the new red tape enve is using?


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## farfromovin (Apr 18, 2009)

I haven’t had any real tape problems with any name brand tape the last couple years until just recently with a cushcore install. I believe I keep ripping the stand tape I’m using when I have to dual tire lever the last 10” of tire on.
Gonna try a roll of Tyvek from Amazon, sounds like its a bit tougher.


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## bn880 (Aug 14, 2010)

I've just switched to Tyvek (blue) Vapor Barrier tape and it's holding extremely well, didn't even require sealant except for the valve stem. (Tried Gorilla, Duct tape, strapping tape etc and nothing was as good as Tyvek so far, I run 60PSI) 

Just wanted to post here with a tip however: I noticed that my previous tapes were getting cut at the edges of the spoke drill holes. This time I took a beveled grinding stone in a drill and smoothed the edges out just a tiny bit. This should avoid the tape getting cut up when pressure changes. I highly recommend this step if you have sharp hole edges like I did on my MTB rims.


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## ninjichor (Jul 12, 2018)

Don't really like the kapton tape, as it doesn't conform to the rim bed that easily. The usual method of putting the tape on with a bit of tension to keep the tape smooth, makes the tape sort of hover over the center channel, using tape that is about 5-6mm wider than the inner rim width (e.g. 35mm tape for 29ID). Can press it down, but it comes back up. 25mm kapton applied easily and perfectly on some older 19mm rims though (Giant PXCR-0).


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

I got around to trying Frost King tape. Stretchy and Easier to put on and remove than even Tyvek, but I think its a tad heavier. I was a little worried it would sretch and break across the spoke holes but no problem there at 30 psi with a big tire, i did not test high psi though. Held air superbly and does not lift off the rim during tire changes. Put a fatal dent in the rear rim a couple weeks ago, still held air!
Replaced rim with WTB KOM Tough with the new tcs 2.0 system, do yourself a favor and get this system next time you need a rim. A thicker (but not heavy) strip goes over the spoke holes, taping over that is super easy. i just used the frost king tape over that instead of buying the WTB Flex tape (its probabaly real simiiar lol.) Has not dropped a single pSI in a week. will report back after long term usage. btw ive also found taht yeah, if tyvek is on for a long time, its a PITA to remove.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Is that a type of clear weatherstripping tape? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Le Duke said:


> Is that a type of clear weatherstripping tape?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The frost king ? Yes. its mentioned ny another earlier in this thread. So is Tyvek.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Updated the 1st post.

I got around to trying to the frost king tape on some brand new enve's and reynolds. It does not work on carbon. It acted like it was going to stick but the moment I turned the wheel the tape would just fall off.. So I tried it on another carbon wheelset and the same thing. This tape is for aluminum rims only.

Needless to say I busted out tyvek and perfect. I just wish there was an easier way to cut the tyvek tape.

tl:dr = frost king is for aluminum rims only.

This was the version of FK i was using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQML0K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

ninjichor said:


> Don't really like the kapton tape, as it doesn't conform to the rim bed that easily. The usual method of putting the tape on with a bit of tension to keep the tape smooth, makes the tape sort of hover over the center channel, using tape that is about 5-6mm wider than the inner rim width (e.g. 35mm tape for 29ID). Can press it down, but it comes back up. 25mm kapton applied easily and perfectly on some older 19mm rims though (Giant PXCR-0).


For carbon rims like kapton tape. In 1st gen hookless rims it does lay down good edge to edge. In more modern rims I go with narrower 15 - 20mm width tape and just lay the tape in the trough. At $2/roll on ebay just too cheap for this cheapazz to pass on. Because you have so much exposed edge putting a tube in it overnight can press and seal the tape down better.


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## jvbutter (Aug 3, 2015)

combfilter said:


> Updated the 1st post.
> 
> I got around to trying to the frost king tape on some brand new enve's and reynolds. It does not work on carbon. It acted like it was going to stick but the moment I turned the wheel the tape would just fall off.. So I tried it on another carbon wheelset and the same thing. This tape is for aluminum rims only.
> 
> ...


Hey combfilter,
In the past I have cut the tape on the roll, going deep for a few wraps, then unwrapped it and cut more as I pulled off the roll. Just a thought

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Ratt said:


> For carbon rims like kapton tape. In more modern rims I go with narrower 15 - 20mm width tape and just lay the tape in the trough. ...


Me too. I use 20mm, a single layer for mtb and two for road. I have a CF road set going on 4 years and my mtb CF set going over 2 years with the same tape jobs. I've dealt with Stan's a similar polyester tapes, Gorilla duct tape (the worst), Orange Seal tape, etc.. and Kapton beats the all in terms of ease of installation, reliability, and ease of removal and cleanup when replacing it.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I was told to use the 3M 8896 strapping tape, ordered a roll from amazon, and it wont even try to stick to the rim. Cleaned with alcohol, heated the rim a bit with blow dryer, nothing helps. Am I missing something or did I possibly get a bad roll of tape?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Does the tape stick to any other surfaces?


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## JaxMustang50 (Jun 26, 2017)

Another vote for the Tyvek tape. I tried it for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Went on easy and has been perfect since. The only down side is having to cut it to width. However it's cheap, light, strong, and sticks to the rim well. I did test removing it though only leaving it on for a few minutes for a quick test. Was easy and came off clean. I'll have to see how it does long term.


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## ceugene (May 17, 2017)

Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.

It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.


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## twodogsfighting (May 10, 2015)

https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/72-yards-3m-8992-polyester-tape-dark-green-choose-width-1325312

Found a uk place for it that actually has a sensible price.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

ceugene said:


> Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.
> 
> It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.


I ordered some to try.


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

crfnick56 said:


> I was told to use the 3M 8896 strapping tape, ordered a roll from amazon, and it wont even try to stick to the rim. Cleaned with alcohol, heated the rim a bit with blow dryer, nothing helps. Am I missing something or did I possibly get a bad roll of tape?


8896 has low stick, 8898 has more glue for high stick. I've been using 8898 for most of my rims but on my new 38mm rim, it isn't working out. So I'd say up to 30mm it's ok. It doesn't stick to itself very well so I run a bead of epoxy at the end point.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Schulze said:


> I ordered some to try.


I'm pretty sold on it. Great durability. I throw a dab if superglue on the last overlapping bit to make sure it never comes apart (glue never touches rim). Also, on a per foot basis, it's pretty damn cheap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

I ordered about $90 worth of tape last night. 

Did we ever figure out what tape DT swiss uses? It seems pretty good.


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

dwyooaj said:


> well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...


I experienced the same and It was never problem for me. good luck


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

Are you guys using epoxy on the end of the tape? I've often found sealant under the overlap until the valve core stops it. I started epoxy on the end and stopped this. Just 5 min mix together hobby epoxy. Standard superglue didn't work, but the Gorilla brand superglue did work.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> I experienced the same and It was never problem for me. good luck


Meaning u had sealant under the tape, but never lost any air?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Schulze said:


> Are you guys using epoxy on the end of the tape? I've often found sealant under the overlap until the valve core stops it. I started epoxy on the end and stopped this. Just 5 min mix together hobby epoxy. Standard superglue didn't work, but the Gorilla brand superglue did work.


Dang, thats brilliant im gonna try that next time. Yeah, i think its under the tape from the overlap to the valve (my overlap is opposite the valve)


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

dwyooaj said:


> well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...


Well some sealant is leaking out of a spoke hole. Sigh...


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## Cerpss (Sep 13, 2015)

I didn't like Tyvek on aluminum wheels due to residue left behind. I had put some small pieces on a fat wheel on the rim seam and over some of the pin joint holes in the bead shelf and then used regular sun ringle tape on the entire wheel over the top. I put it on last november/december and rode in the cold mn winter. When I swapped tires this spring I had to retape. The sun ringle tape came off clean with no residue. the little pieces of tyvek left residue over nearly their entire area (and sealant looked to have gotten under a little. 

TLDR - tyvek on aluminum fat wheels that experienced subzero F temps and maybe up to 70F left behind nasty residue after 6 months or less. I used orange seal if that affects anything.


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## Pipeliner (Oct 30, 2018)

cadoretteboat said:


> No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
> That's the secret for any tape.


This is the only way I could get my road bike to seal. Good advice for all tubeless, have been using tubes to seat tape on all my bikes since then.


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## shaynec (Jul 22, 2016)

ceugene said:


> Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.
> 
> It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.


I bought some of this, thanks for the tip!


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

dwyooaj said:


> Well some sealant is leaking out of a spoke hole. Sigh...


Im gonna give frost king another go, this time with 2 full layers of tape and the epoxy on the loose end trick. Simply because its so easy to apply to the rim. If it doesnt hold up this time...back to tyvek.


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## smurfendrek123 (Jan 6, 2018)

Schulze said:


> I ordered about $90 worth of tape last night.
> 
> Did we ever figure out what tape DT swiss uses? It seems pretty good.


I disagree, i bought a dt swiss c1800 gravel wheelset with dt swiss tubeless tape installed, and ran it with effetto mariposa caffelatex sealant, after a month or two the rim tape in my rear wheel failed, and after about a year the tape in my front wheel failed as well.

This was with the tires always inflated between 3 and 4 bars (and very briefly 5 bars to seat the tire). Both failures where at the spoke holes. Curiously the tape seemed damaged at multiple spoke holes, but i think the sealant managed to plug some of them up (the caffélatex is a foaming sealant, pretty great stuff)

I took the tires off to replace the tape, and saw that the logo's had faded away/peeled of for the most part. I sent them a customer request support, and they referred me to a local bike shop that was partnered with them, but they said that my tape was not the original tape because the original tape should have logos on it...

Didn't bother with continuing to ask for tape since they probably would have replaced it with the same tape which would have failed again.

I replaced it with 2 layers of effetto mariposa tubeless tape on both wheels, and that has worked well so far for the last few months.

It is a different tape than some others in that it does seem pretty strong, and it's not stretchy which makes it a bit more time consuming to apply, but effetto mariposa says that that makes the tape adhere better.


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

Sounds like the caffelatex sealant was eating away at the tape.


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## smurfendrek123 (Jan 6, 2018)

Maybe, And i guess that the sealant is somewhat uncommon in that it is in contact with the tape due to it's foaming properties.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

When you guys are talking about sealant eating the tape, you mean the adhesive is coming loose, not the substrate being affected, right? I haven't seen sealant affect plastic film of the tape. I've certainly seen plenty of situations where the film stops adhering to the rim with the adhesive turned into a gooey mess. 

The Kapton tape I've been using has silicone adhesive and has held up to Stan's for years on road/mtb carbon and aluminum rims.


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## Dropout33 (Apr 9, 2007)

dwyooaj said:


> Im gonna give frost king another go, this time with 2 full layers of tape and the epoxy on the loose end trick. Simply because its so easy to apply to the rim. If it doesnt hold up this time...back to tyvek.


Let is set over night with a tube inflated.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Dropout33 said:


> Let is set over night with a tube inflated.


I always do that


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## smurfendrek123 (Jan 6, 2018)

Lone Rager said:


> When you guys are talking about sealant eating the tape, you mean the adhesive is coming loose, not the substrate being affected, right? I haven't seen sealant affect plastic film of the tape. I've certainly seen plenty of situations where the film stops adhering to the rim with the adhesive turned into a gooey mess.
> 
> The Kapton tape I've been using has silicone adhesive and has held up to Stan's for years on road/mtb carbon and aluminum rims.


In my case the actual dt swiss branding had dissapeared because of the sealant. I don't know if the tape failed because dt swiss ships weak tape, or if the sealant affected the structural integrity of the tape, but the logo's were probably gone because of the sealant. The adhesion to the rim however, was still perfect.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

smurfendrek123 said:


> ... dt swiss ships weak tape...


Say that three times fast.


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## Outhouse (Jul 26, 2019)

Tyvek, so far no issues on CF rims


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

I haven't read all the replies but a tip to remove the stuff left from Gorilla tape is to use some more gorilla tape.
Take a piece around your finger , glue side exterior (doh!) , and just remove the stuff left with that. You sometimes have to pass a couple of times over it.

IME it doesn't work as well if you tried to remove before with other chemical stuff.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ I have dealt with Gorilla residue. It's easier to avoid it.


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

Anybody use Tyvek on mulefits? I just gave it a shot but see i have sealant leaking out of cutouts. I did two passes around the rim on each side, which left a good amount of overlap in the middle. I wonder i if i should take it off and do 4 full passes?


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## Redlands R&C (Dec 14, 2013)

I do, on my girls trailer now. I was having the air leak through the vent holes in the rim that are on the sidewalk. I had to run my tape much wider than yours is laid out. Try pulling it so that it curves up on the sidewalk and get as close to the bead hook as possible. Also better success after using a tube to help compress the tape down, 15psi or so for 24 hours made a big difference. Good luck

Also, is that just tyvek tape? No rimstrip?make sure you run a strip under the tape otherwise the tape will eventually stretch and blow out


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Gendy said:


> Anybody use Tyvek on mulefits? I just gave it a shot but see i have sealant leaking out of cutouts. I did two passes around the rim on each side, which left a good amount of overlap in the middle. I wonder i if i should take it off and do 4 full passes?
> 
> View attachment 1295657
> 
> ...


It looks to me like you have way too many wrinkles and bubbles for that to work.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

I've had very good luck with high temperature powder coating masking tape. 3M 8992, specifically. 

Good adhesion, comes off clean (!), easy to apply, strong.


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

I am running the stock rim strip, which i trimmed down about a 1/4" on each each side, to allow for more surface for the tape to stick. I did install a tube up to 15-20psi and let it sit over night. I wonder if that was too much, which caused the tape to bubble out on the cut outs, ruining the seal. It was better looking before i did that. Does anybody think i should go around twice on each side, would that help? Also any tips on removing the adhesive? Alcohol isnt touching it  Tempted to just order the sunringle stuff, since the left over residue was so bad


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Le Duke said:


> I've had very good luck with high temperature powder coating masking tape. 3M 8992, specifically.
> 
> Good adhesion, comes off clean (!), easy to apply, strong.


Yes, I am pretty excited about this stuff too. I am just trying it now but so far it seems remarkably close to ideal, it goes on with the exact right amount of stretch to neatly cover with no wrinkles or bubbles, with good adhesion. It seems plenty tough enough to seal well and hold up, but time will tell.


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

Velodonata said:


> Yes, I am pretty excited about this stuff too. I am just trying it now but so far it seems remarkably close to ideal, it goes on with the exact right amount of stretch to neatly cover with no wrinkles or bubbles, with good adhesion. It seems plenty tough enough to seal well and hold up, but time will tell.


Can it be sourced locally, or needs to be ordered online?


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

Gendy said:


> Can it be sourced locally, or needs to be ordered online?


I got it through the local branch of R.S. Hughes, they also sell it online.


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

Gorilla Heavy Duty Packaging Tape

Giving this stuff a try, taped up a wheel set few months back with it and have not had any issue (leaks) with it so far.

Kind of thick (not stupidly thick), so only need one wrap. The adhesive seems fairly sticky but not overly sticky like Tyvek. Tyvek is great, but is a pain to work with (putting on and taking off).

Be swapping out tires here soon so will see how this stuff is doing/holding up.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

In2falling said:


> View attachment 1295873
> 
> Gorilla Heavy Duty Packaging Tape


Will that flex enough to contour into rim channels and curves? I haven't used anything like that but it doesn't seem like it could conform well to anything but a fairly even surface.

I don't think Stan's tape is ideal, it kind of sucks on some rims actually but I haven't tried anything better yet. I think tape in general is a crappy engineering solution for tubeless wheels. Strips made to fit the rim (e.g. Bontrager) seems like an improvement, better yet would be a tapeless rim like Mavic but with a more universal and user friendly nipple system.


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## In2falling (Jan 1, 2005)

J.B. Weld said:


> Will that flex enough to contour into rim channels and curves? I haven't used anything like that but it doesn't seem like it could conform well to anything but a fairly even surface.


Not much of any flex to it at all, but I managed to lay it down fairly nicely into channel and curves for the most part. Was a quick last minute tape job after getting frustrated with Tyvek, so wasn't the best tape job.

If the adhesive hold up this might be a fairly nice tape option and its only $4 for 25 yard roll.


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## rstark18 (Apr 10, 2006)

Isn’t anyone using Kapton anymore. I wrapped a set a while back and haven’t had any issues but haven’t had the tires off yet to check the status.


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

I used Kapton on my i40 carbon wheels and it's been holding up great far as I can tell. It was my go-to when trying mulefit 80s for the first time, but it didn't work at all. It was only ~1" wide I think, and sealant seemed to push in between in the cutout areas. Not sure how wide you can get kapton, but if they had a 2"+ maybe that'd be more suitable for a fat wheel.

Tyvek was the only other tape I could find locally besides gorilla. I went around the wheel twice with some overlap in the middle, but it didn't work. Has been a major pita cleaning the residue. Just had to go and get acetone since alcohol and brake clean werent touching it. Hesitant to even try it again due to the residue, but I wanna wrap this up before the snow later today :/. Maybe I'll try two layers to see if that helps??


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

In2falling said:


> Not much of any flex to it at all, but I managed to lay it down fairly nicely into channel and curves for the most part. Was a quick last minute tape job after getting frustrated with Tyvek, so wasn't the best tape job.
> 
> If the adhesive hold up this might be a fairly nice tape option and its only $4 for 25 yard roll.


3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I am the captain of Kapton. It's been very easy to use an totally reliable for me using it on road and mtb tubeless. That said, I've seen some wheels where it wasn't sticking anymore. IDK what went wrong with those, except perhaps inadequate cleaning/prep of the rim before taping.


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

I'm not sure how to handle the tape edge where the cutouts are....push it down or try to pull it tight?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

You probably need to use a rim strip before putting the tape


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

Yes, stock rim strip is there. I trimmed it down a bit


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

yep.. i couldn't see very well on my iphone. the shadow over the holes looked liked there was nothing in there.. 

im used to taping center then on the sides. 

i plan on re-taping my rear and looks like Tyvek is highly recommended. mind sharing where you got yours?


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## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

bapski said:


> yep.. i couldn't see very well on my iphone. the shadow over the holes looked liked there was nothing in there..
> 
> im used to taping center then on the sides.
> 
> i plan on re-taping my rear and looks like Tyvek is highly recommended. mind sharing where you got yours?


taping center, then the sides. brilliant idea! wish i thought of that last night before redoing my mulefits with tyvek. i found it at home depot. The left over residue when removing was less than ideal, but i dont have much to compare it to in terms of cleanup at this point


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## Timothy G. Parrish (Apr 13, 2014)

Lone Rager said:


> I am the captain of Kapton. It's been very easy to use an totally reliable for me using it on road and mtb tubeless. That said, I've seen some wheels where it wasn't sticking anymore. IDK what went wrong with those, except perhaps inadequate cleaning/prep of the rim before taping.


I've had Kapton not stick to my rim from the start. Spank Oozy Trail 345s. It seems to have an aversion to rough surfaces. It worked great on my WTBs, but for the Spanks I had to use other tapes instead.


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## Cerpss (Sep 13, 2015)

Gendy said:


> taping center, then the sides. brilliant idea! wish i thought of that last night before redoing my mulefits with tyvek. i found it at home depot. The left over residue when removing was less than ideal, but i dont have much to compare it to in terms of cleanup at this point


From experience the tyvek on aluminum leaves way more residue than sun ringle tape. sun tape I've taken off with virtually no residue after a year or more. tyvek tape after 6 months left a gummy mess. It may be different on carbon.


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

Velodonata said:


> 3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.


Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.

1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/


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## Velodonata (May 12, 2018)

kevin_sbay said:


> Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.
> 
> 1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
> https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/


I would be surprised if that is not the same stuff. Same specs, same color.


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## jupiter58 (Jan 13, 2016)

orange seal rim tape? what a disappointment. Tried to get a refund on this crap, they want pictures to prove it failed, guess my word is not good enough, thanks Jen USA, how many thousands of dollars i spent at your store? :madmax: . It reminds me of pipe thread tape and nearly as fragile. Any others try this tape? never had problems with Stans many years ago, so after many years I want to convert one of wheelsets to tubeless and have to use rim tape:nonod: not having fun so far. My wifes bike has NOS Shimano tubeless with no spoke holes....so easy. Guess the fell out of favor? to complicated I guess.


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## jupiter58 (Jan 13, 2016)

Velodonata said:


> 3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.


I am going to give it a try, seems like a good choice, I have shimano MT66 wheel 622X19c. so the 3M tape in 3/4 inch should work?


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

@Gendy.

If those are aluminum I'd use gorilla clear like I said in the original post. For aluminum rims Gorilla Clear is great. For carbon, not so much. I think most fat bike people use gorilla clear or...I know this sounds weird, but they will lay down a layer of electrical tape in the channel to cover up the holes. Then go over that with gorilla clear. Your tyvek tape job is not looking real clean in that picture above. Not ragging on you, but it shouldn't look like. Try covering the holes with 2 rounds of electrical tape, and maybe frost king if you have alum.


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Just a reminder: 

Frost King does not work on carbon rims. I am guessing it's probably really good for aluminum rims though?


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## combfilter (Jan 10, 2012)

Pro Tip for non weight weenies. 

I actually got this from GCN. If you are having issues with tesa/stans/etc tape not sticking well and bubbling a lot, you lay down a thin strip of 1 loop of electrical tape down in the channel only. So just default size electrical tape first, then go over that with tyvek, tesa, etc. The eletrical tape allows the sealing tape to stick better without bubbles. It's weird but it works. I don't need to do ****, because I use tyvek and it always lays down and sticks good for me. 

Also: 
If you are re-taping a rim. After you have removed all the old tape and you are at the point you are cleaning the residue off. Be chill with mineral spirits or whatever you are using to clean off the residue. I also advise from using goo gone.. My buddy had used goo gone and what happens is that some of that dripped down in the spoke holes and it doesn't really evaporate or clean out well. So he cleaned the rim with a lot of that and the stuff that went down in the spoke holes came back up after he taped the rim and you can see why his tape job would not work. I also notice that goo gone and those other citrus cleaners leave a slick surface on the rim. It's like a oil that doesn't clean off well. Thus your tape is not going to stick. I'd suggest Mineral Spirits then once done clean the rim very well with soap and water (dawn is fine). THEN DRY THE RIM COMPLETELY before taping again. I put the wheel/rim back on my bike and spin that sucker. Then I take the air compressor and really blow out every hole then let it sit overnight to dry. Granted not all people have that much time. I only have to re-tape my personal wheels maybe once every couple of years, but I tend to have to re-tape my friends wheels as we know tesa/etc doesn't last too long if you change tires a lot or had a crappy installation to begin with.


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## high_desert_mud (Jul 22, 2017)

mcgurme said:


> FattyStrippers [...]] went on my Mulefuts super easy, and sealed up right away. I bought the kit that included the 3M tape that's used as the "rim tape" to cover the spoke nipples and cutouts.
> [...] They're super lightweight, too.


A bit of a zombie, but not much on the forum about this -

I'm also using Fatty Stripper rim tape on mulefuts; painless. Originally i was going to stick with the stock rim strip, but the FS (3M brand reflective tape it looks like?) is actually _LIGHTER_ than the thinner (looking) original tape.

While this is working well for me so far, what I haven't been able to find - is the 3M / FattyStripper tape appropriate to cover the cuttouts? To what max tire pressure? It seems like it might have much less (tensile) strength than OEM rim strips.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

after some experience with both Tyvek and frost king, I've changed my mind. Thought Tyvek was great, but recently had to fix a busted spoke on front wheel and retape. The Tyvek (which had been on there maybe 1.5 -2 years) always held air great but after so long was such a time-consuming pita to try and remove from the (aluminum) rim that I ordered a new, different rim instead (wtb kom tough with TCS 2.0 -to match my rear rim, old rim was tcs 1.0) this rim comes with thin light rim strip to go over the holes (similar to combfilter's above trick with electrical tape-genius!) to facilitate taping and sealing up. Taped ver that with frost king-just like the rear rim I did last may. The rear wheel has held up to multiple tire changes with n tire bead sticking to tape and loses very little air, and the trick with gluing down the tape end with epoxy has worked well, but after 8 months it lifted up a tiny bit and I had to reapply a dab of epoxy, no big deal. It also came off cleanly after 8 months. No more Tyvek for me, is just too hard to remove; its like the adhesive is stronger than the tape itself. For me, wtb TCS rim w/ proprietary rim strip (or electrical tape in the center channel) overlaid with Frost King with the end epoxied down is the way to go.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dwyooaj said:


> ... Thought Tyvek was great, but recently had to fix a busted spoke on front wheel and retape. The Tyvek (which had been on there maybe 1.5 -2 years) always held air great but after so long was such a time-consuming pita to try and remove from the (aluminum) rim that I ordered a new, different rim ...


Curious.

If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made. Will the Tyvek then hold well to itself, like it does at the end of the Tyvek wrap?
If you've riding the replacement, you've got the rim with Tyvek on it with which to do such a test?
Did you install a rim strip or a patch of masking or other tape over each nipple before doing the Tyvek wrap?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Canoe said:


> Curious.
> 
> If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made.]





This is exactly how I deal with spoke holes replacing spokes but tyvek on top of stans tape. It %100 works very well. 
I've been entertaining the idea of cutting squares or quarter size circles of tyvek tape and simply taping every spoke hole individually. I wager it'd work very well but then again, maybe not.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

WHALENARD said:


> This is exactly how I deal with spoke holes replacing spokes but tyvek on top of stans tape. It %100 works very well.
> I've been entertaining the idea of cutting squares or quarter size circles of tyvek tape and simply taping every spoke hole individually. I wager it'd work very well but then again, maybe not.


Like your patch, but I wonder about Tyvek on Tyvek. It seems to do well enough at the wrap-around seam.

I do the opposite of what you propose. I put a patch of tape that doesn't stick overly well over each nipple - easy to remove - then put whatever tape wrapped over that. That way it's easy to cut out around the nipple if I ever have to. I've never had to, so I don't know how well it works... And it acts like a rim-strip to protect the wrap/tube from wearing on the nipple; at least that's the theory. YRMV


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Canoe said:


> Curious.
> 
> If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made. Will the Tyvek then hold well to itself, like it does at the end of the Tyvek wrap?
> If you've riding the replacement, you've got the rim with Tyvek on it with which to do such a test?
> Did you install a rim strip or a patch of masking or other tape over each nipple before doing the Tyvek wrap?


I haven't had good luck with tape "patches". They seem to lift off pretty quickly. its more like it was time for a new rim anyway (rim was 4 years old and had some flat spots/rim dings) and I really like the tcs 2.o system so I was like screw it ill just order the new rim I want to get anyway (I build my own wheels) I did not have anything between the Tyvek and the nipple holes, but the new rim comes with a light rim strip that's meant to go between spoke holes and tubeless tape.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I patch Kapton with Kapton with no issues.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I did a tape patch almost 2 years ago and it's still on and holding air fine. The funny part is that it's some inexpensive thin, generic clear packaging tape. It was the common broken spoke and about to head out for a ride. I had no time and didn't want to install a tube. I took a chance and it worked and is still working. I worried a bit about it until I did a tire swap and it looked just fine with no evidence of rolling up or separating. It is on top of Stan's Tape. I incorporated standard practices of good cleaning and cut the smallest slit necessary to get the nipple through.


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## Tweekster (May 10, 2012)

I'm an amateur wheelbuilder for family and friends, and have worked with all the popular carbon brands, ENVE, WAO, SC Reserve, DT Swiss, NOX, LB, etc. I also have a friend in the aerospace world that builds pre-preg carbon parts in his spare time for RC planes and car projects. Reading this whole thread it seems a common complaint is tape not sticking to carbon. My friend and had a discussion, so here's my 2 cents.

Bottom line, most of the tapes listed here should stick equally to aluminum or carbon, with the proper prep. The problem comes with molded carbon parts. Molded parts require a mold release agent so they can get pulled from the mold. In high pressure or vacumn molding it's inevitable that some release agent gets into the carbon. This stuff is very tenacious and simple solvent wipes don't remove all of it.

Typical mold release agent:

https://webaps.ellsworth.com/edl/Actions/GetLibraryFile.aspx?document=23452&language=en

It might require solvent and abrasive cleaning to get a well prepped surface.

Paper on paint prep for carbon:

http://www.iccm-central.org/Proceedings/ICCM21proceedings/papers/4306.pdf

So here's a procedure I use that seems to work well:

1. Wipe down thoroughly with solvent (usually alcohol or acetone) to remove as much mold release as possible.
2. Cut a strip of red 3M scotchbrite to fit rim width. Used in the automotive world for paint prep. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...2+3293241244&preselect=8692962+8710964&rt=rud
3. Make one pass around rim slowly with a back-and-forth sanding motion.
4. Vacumn dust and wipe down with solvent.
5. Flip scothbrite to other side and make second pass.
6. Vacumn dust and wipe down with solvent.
7. Let dry well and tape

You should notice a big difference in the tape sticking, and an added bonus, it smooths the rim and knocks off burrs around spoke holes and seams, another tape failure point.


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## Tweekster (May 10, 2012)

A couple of pics:


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## kevin_sbay (Sep 26, 2018)

kevin_sbay said:


> Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.
> 
> 1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
> https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coating-Masking-Temperature/dp/B00CKGIBYE/


Quick update. This tape has held up very well for me, knock on wood.

It doesn't stretch that much and isn't super pliable, so there are some tape lines/ridges that result. But those aren't visible, of course. Sorry, no photos.

Works and cheap. A good combo.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

i think im just about ready to re-tape my carbon rims. 

im trying kapton tape and i first ordered a 30mm width until i realized the inner width of rim is only 23.4mm. 

i then placed an order for a 25mm tape. as the 30mm is on its way and will arrive sooner than the 25mm tape, so, would i be good to use the 30mm even its 7mm wider or is it too wide and should just wait for the 25mm width?

thanks in advance.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Some of us remember oldschool ghetto split tube tubeless! 

The thing with that... there was zero adhesion to the rim. There wasn't any adhesive at all actually. Realistically, tape works the same. You dont need the tape sticking to the rim at all, you need the tape sticking to itself. As you can tell from the tape being on the roll, it sticks extremely poorly to itself. We're more using internal tire pressure to keep the tape sealed, and that ends up working poorly. 

I think the epoxy idea is great. Or possibly scuffing the tape, or using a tape that heat seals or something. We're going at this in a super ghetto way that doesn't even make sense. We need to be trying to replicate, ironically, split tube ghetto tubeless but with a very thin tape. The tape END should be fused or strongly glued, the rest is really whatever as long as its not punctured.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

bapski said:


> i think im just about ready to re-tape my carbon rims.
> 
> im trying kapton tape and i first ordered a 30mm width until i realized the inner width of rim is only 23.4mm.
> 
> ...


I WOULDN'T use 25 tape, instead I'd use 30. Well, 28 is the best (2 mm each edge) but 30 also ok. My point - wider is better! To place a tape on vertical inner sides of rim is must-do!


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

Hello y'all

Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape..

I mean tape like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000223520538.html


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ You have other options besides aliexpress and 4289.


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

Oh yeah I know. I haven't read whole topic but from what I read all over the internet it seems that people are using Gorilla tape the most, this Tesa and Stan's.. At least I think. But I just wanted to know if someone has tried this cheap one form Aliexpress. Also bike-components.de sell one of their own: https://www.bike-components.de/de/bc-basic/Tubeless-Pro-Felgenband-p71615/

I am from europe so I cannot get everything what was mention here. But If you have some cheap tip for 30mm MTB rims better than this I am opened to discussion.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Tesa!
13€ for 66 m!
Any & every size you want!
Works 100000% perfect!


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## high_desert_mud (Jul 22, 2017)

Woko_O said:


> Hello y'all
> 
> Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape.


Go with tesa tape (#4298), or 3m strapping tape (#8896) - i've use both and they are pretty much identical. As listed numerous other places, this is identical or nearly so to OEM products such as SunRingle tape.

I see you are running skinny rims. My experience is with Fatties ... but those are only more difficult. I've taped Mulefut 80's with factory "perfect width tape", and with my own custom method with the 1" strapping tape.


install rim strip IFF you have cuttouts. Strapping tape on its own is more than sufficient for just the nipples (single wall) or the holes (double wall)
clean the rim with alchohol or acetone, focusing on the bead lock area
start in the middle of the rim a few inches past the valve hole, holding down the tape.
as you turn the wheel, ease the tape over to the bead / lock area on one side.
do two full revolutions on that side. As you tape, force a tiny bit of "curl" up the rim wall/hook by angling the tape slightly "out"
continuing to turn, ease to the other side. two layers
make a hole for the valve. I melt it, i'm sure knife is fine.
inflate a TUBE in the rim, leave it in the sun for an hour or overnight inside.
profit.

having tape LESS wide than the rim, perhaps counter intuitively, makes things WAY easier, since you can focus on just one bead at a time. Your hands will be tired, but it only takes 5 minutes and a fraction of a $10 tape roll.

That sweet, sweet tubeless? PRICELESS.


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

Well I'll go for Tesa. Thank you. Even for the guide and manual.

But are you sure with that LESS wide statement? I know just to cover holes of spokes is OK, but it should be also in the bead profile. So I think if I have 30mm rim (inside) I should use something like 32mm tape (because of the middle channel). At least it is recommended..


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Woko_O said:


> if I have 30mm rim (inside) I should use something like 32mm tape (because of the middle channel).


I'd go with 34-35 mm !! Couple of mms each bead-side up.


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## Aglo (Dec 16, 2014)

^+1
I always go for wider than the rim bed, preferably I go up the wall at least 2mm to 3mm. This way you only have to worry about sealing two places, if you go with less than the tire bed you have four places to worry about. I got this habit from the times off ghetto tubeless, but this is a preference and sometimes this can make mounting tires more difficult because of the extra thickness. The only really wrong option is when the tape ends under the tire bead, this is asking for trouble when unseating tires.
Don't recall all the tapes I tried, but currently my preference is the Tesa tape.


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

Aglo said:


> ^+1
> I always go for wider than the rim bed, preferably I go up the wall at least 2mm to 3mm. This way you only have to worry about sealing two places, if you go with less than the tire bed you have four places to worry about. I got this habit from the times off ghetto tubeless, but this is a preference and sometimes this can make mounting tires more difficult because of the extra thickness. The only really wrong option is when the tape ends under the tire bead, this is asking for trouble when unseating tires.
> Don't recall all the tapes I tried, but currently my preference is the Tesa tape.


I tend to go for just covering the rim bed (particularly on lower profile rims like Stan's 355's and Crest's) with whatever is handy... 3M strapping, DT Swiss or Stan's tape.

I can replace tires 3-4 times before redoing the tape and find there is much less chance of catching it on the tire bead.


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

ka81ua said:


> I'd go with 34-35 mm !! Couple of mms each bead-side up.


 All right. I can only buy 32mm or 35mm so I'll take the 35mm.. Thanks


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## high_desert_mud (Jul 22, 2017)

Woko_O said:


> But are you sure with that LESS wide statement?


less wide means you do each bead *one at a time.*

You absolutely do both beads, but it's much easier to get perfect results just optimizing one bead at a time.

it's certainly possible to do wider, however:

as above, one pass (per final layer) with "full width" is much harder than two passes with the narrower tape
the weight difference is basically zero, the tape is so light.
to do full width, you need it *just right* width - which for many rims would mean more expensive tape. I've done Mulefuts several times with the OEM tape, but I haven't used it since I found the narrow Tesa tape.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I do not tape on the rim sides. Bed only and stop at the radius where the flat begins to curve up. Multiple tire swaps each season and no issues. I can get years out of a single tape job.

What is reason to tape the rim sidewalls? For me personally, I can't think of any given that I have been do this for 10 years now problem free.


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

high_desert_mud said:


> less wide means you do each bead *one at a time.*
> 
> You absolutely do both beads, but it's much easier to get perfect results just optimizing one bead at a time.
> 
> ...


 Ah, now I understand how you meant it.. Yeah, that is good idea. But wouldn't be there a problem in the connection of those two halves? I don't care about weight..



> I do not tape on the rim sides. Bed only and stop at the radius where the flat begins to curve up. Multiple tire swaps each season and no issues. I can get years out of a single tape job.
> 
> What is reason to tape the rim sidewalls? For me personally, I can't think of any given that I have been do this for 10 years now problem free


 I don't think people do the rim sides with tape. There is no reason for that as you said. But complete rim bed should be covered and in that case the tape will not move and just seal properly.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

While I understand why people tape sidewall to sidewall I've found this to be more problematic than just taping the channel. At least for a guy that changes a lot of tires. I've not had the edges of my tape jobs unstick or proliferate with sealant which I attribute to prep and attention to detail when applying. However l, I have had tape that runs up into the bead get all buggered up which is the beginning of the end. My front wheel tape is currently 3 seasons old and has seen roughly 12 tires. 

I used DT tape for my last rear wheel build and I'm a fan. It's like a much improved version of Stan's. Thick yet stretchy (conforms WAY better with less creases and bubbles) and FAR better adhesive

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Woko_O said:


> Ah,


seriously:
1) get Tesa
2) get 4-5 mm wider than your rim ID
3) cover the rim with two layers

You're good for eternal life. Period.

p.s. as for placing a tape on bead sides - the bead of tyre will lay on tape and it will be better (tighter) then bead of tyre on rim (on alluminium).
p.p.s. when it's whole wide tape on rim - it's better for situation when you will make a hole for presta valve. there'll be no any kind of seams.
p.p.p.s. sorry for bad engl.


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## high_desert_mud (Jul 22, 2017)

Perhaps for narrow rims it doesn't matter; in my experience it did matter quite a bit for Fatties; and since i started doing this to fat tires, it has also worked great for several Skinny rims in the ~i45 ish range.

I guess some pictures are worth about 27.5 replies 

Here's a mulefut. There are often manufacturing artifacts (such as these vent holes) that are VERY close to the bead seat. So we're accomplishing:

seal the big stuff
cuttouts (fat rims), nipples, nipple-holes (double walls) 

seal the small stuff
vent holes, rim seam if not welded 
these can typically seal on their own, but it takes a while and it's not a sure thing. I like a sure thing. 

provide a clean interface AT the bead lock.
for "good" tubeless rims *coupled with *reasonably tight tires, I agree you might need to tape the bead for beadlock. But I've had issues with older rims, or tires that happen to be on the larger end of their tolerance. So, I go foolproof since it takes ~$1 and 5 minutes.And you still have those vent holes, and the rim gap if it's pinned (not welded) 


A naked SunRingle MuleFut 80:









I start here, *inside* of the bead lock. This is only so I don't end up with a sharp seam away from the sealing area.









then quickly but smoothly transition to the beadlock









and basically "err" slightly on the side of the vertical wall. If you go to far it will fold - but with one side, and the 1" tape, it's EASY to do it well; YMMV but i find it much easier than full-width









the final layout for SKINNY rims. Note if you have internal > 55mm (but not fat), three runs of Tesa works as well)









now, i'm showing a fat rim: in case someone comes here for this, I haven't shown the following:

FAT / large rim cutouts only:

first put in a rim strip. I like fatty stripper / 3m relective tape - it's plenty durable enough, and is actually LIGHTER than the default plastic/vinyl strips. 
then tape the beadlock as above. The Tesa tape will overlap the rim strip a tiny bit. 
finally, seal it all down the middle (not beadlocks) with tyvek house tape (also dirt cheap, basically weightless, sticks _insanely _well - which is why you don't tape it to your rim aluminum directly, you will never get it off! 

This is trivial do do for ANY rim width, no matter how fat, is as light or lighter than other approaches, removes easily from the rim later (only Tesa contacts the aluminum) and seals like a CHAMP  good luck.










Like any tubeless tape job - don't forget to inflate a TUBE in the tire before you inflate it sans tube w/ sealant - the tube forces a prefect seat/bond on the tape or any bubbles before you get sealant in there (which will prevent adhesion of any un-stuck tape, of any method).

Here's a few completed rims:

one ultralight rim strip, I use reflective tape from FattyStripper
tesa 4298 strapping tape (2 layers each side)
one layer of tyvek house tape to ensure #1 and #2 stay sealed.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Woko_O said:


> Hello y'all
> 
> Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape..
> 
> I mean tape like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000223520538.html


That looks really interesting, especially the part about it being a bit stretchy. might give it a try sure is cheap enough!


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

I think it will be allright. One member from different forum mention that he tried and he said it is fine.

If you try it give a review..


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## rstark18 (Apr 10, 2006)

Just an update on Kapton tape. 
I’ve had it on my BTLOS carbon wheels since 03/19. I’m getting ready to sell this bike in a month or two so I thought I’d take a look at the tape before hand. I thought that the finish end of the tape would probably be compromised by now but not at all. The tape looks as new as the day it was put on. This through two tire changes. 
One item of note on this was I went with 3/4” (19mm) tape and did each side in two wraps (one piece of tape. 
Next time I think I’ll get 35mm tape (for 30mm id) and do one wrap. 
My new bike comes with DTSwiss al rims so I’m hoping when the time comes to rewrap that the Kapton will work as good on the al rims as it did on the carbon.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I do 1 wrap of Kapton. The stuff is easy to apply conforming the rim shape lying flat with no wrinkles, holds up great, comes off leaving essentially no residue. I've poked a hole in it to replace a broken spoke and patched with a short length of tape. I don't see much room for improvement. 

On high pressure road rims (~100 psi) I use two layers.


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## jaybert (Sep 10, 2020)

Just wanted to add my experience. This is on a dt Swiss ex571 30mm iw wheel. I originally purchased 35mm muc off tape. I tried a bit and it was too wide where it would go on the bead lip. I went to REI and all they had was 30mm wtb tape so I went with it. I’d say quality of the tape itself was mediocre. The ends of the tape would split where I had to restart a couple of times. Once I got it going, I was able to get a good seal by pulling and smoothing with my thumb over and over.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Woko_O said:


> Hello y'all
> 
> Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape..
> 
> I mean tape like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000223520538.html


I just ordered a 32mm and 34 mm roll, see which works best on my 29 mm wtb tcs 2.0 rims. Cheap enough, ill be the guinea pig


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

^Have you got the result?

I have recently done my rims with Tesa. It was really hard to get it streched enough and place it without air bubbles. I somehow made it but it was definitely not clean an bubbles are there. But I placed electro tape under only for spoke holes in the inner channel just to be sure and ARD is pushing the tape down a little so I will see..


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Woko_O said:


> ^Have you got the result?
> 
> I have recently done my rims with Tesa. It was really hard to get it streched enough and place it without air bubbles. I somehow made it but it was definitely not clean an bubbles are there. But I placed electro tape under only for spoke holes in the inner channel just to be sure and ARD is pushing the tape down a little so I will see..


I got the tape but havent installed yet. Will report back


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Woko_O said:


> place it without air bubbles.


it doesn't matter at all, as long as bubbles are at the center.


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## Woko_O (May 19, 2020)

Yeah I think so too. It looks like it is holding pressure quite good. I put 30 psi, let it rest overnight and next day I measured something little under 30 psi (chinese pressure gauge so who knows). I will check it out after longer time to see.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Woko_O said:


> ^Have you got the result?
> 
> I have recently done my rims with Tesa. It was really hard to get it streched enough and place it without air bubbles. I somehow made it but it was definitely not clean an bubbles are there. But I placed electro tape under only for spoke holes in the inner channel just to be sure and ARD is pushing the tape down a little so I will see..


 I applied the ali express tape. It goes on real nicely. its a tad thicker and stretchier than stans, less stretchy than frost king. the top is nice and slippery like tyvek so tire slides on and off good. sticks to teh rim nicely, and seems to stick well to itself at the overlap. its not sticking well to the plastic center strip thats part of the wtb tcs 2.0 system, but I cant believe that would be a problem. Held air overnight, will report back after some time about how it holds up. If it stays on well long-term I believe its teh winner, especially for the price!


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

dwyooaj said:


> I applied the ali express tape. It goes on real nicely. its a tad thicker and stretchier than stans, less stretchy than frost king. the top is nice and slippery like tyvek so tire slides on and off good. sticks to teh rim nicely, and seems to stick well to itself at the overlap. its not sticking well to the plastic center strip thats part of the wtb tcs 2.0 system, but I cant believe that would be a problem. Held air overnight, will report back after some time about how it holds up. If it stays on well long-term I believe its teh winner, especially for the price!


After a few years experimenting with various tapes; kapton, tyvek, frost king, and most recently the blue ali express tape, the ali express tape is the clear winner. Comes in a nice variety of widths, inexpensive, easy to apply, sticks to the rim decently (not quite a sticky as tyvek, but good enough,and comes off cleanly-tyvek was the worst at that). After a couple of months and a few tire changes, it has held up nicely, does not pull off with the tire when changing, has held air really well. The loose end of the tape doesnt lift up all the way to the valve like the frost king


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

My favorite tape was the blue stuff that came with the Schwalbe Pro-Core kit.
A bit more flex than Stans.


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## scott16462 (Mar 24, 2021)

Hi

Sent from my Partner Evolution using Tapatalk


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Just pick a random thread to just say "Hi" for your 1st post?


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## Bonnie&Clyde (Sep 14, 2020)

I finally decided to convert my Salsa Bucksaw to tubeless. I had this tape in the garage and gave it a shot. It can be found at Lowes or Home depot its Christy's gas pipe tape. Its strong and thick. Water proof. Not super sticky like gorilla but stick enough. I don't think it will soak up the sealant either. I did one center wrap with the sticky side out then two overlapping on top of the sticky side. Orange sealant and inflate. Held air now for weeks and several rides.








New item by Cory Johnson







photos.app.goo.gl












New item by Cory Johnson







photos.app.goo.gl












New item by Cory Johnson







photos.app.goo.gl


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## JaxMustang50 (Jun 26, 2017)

I recently had to retape one of my wheels that I had used Tyvek on. The Tyvek held up well through a couple of tire changes and many miles however eventually needed a change as it was starting to pull away and get folded by the removal of the tire this last time.
Long story short, it is a world class ***** to remove and leaves the most residue I've ever seen. Cleaning was a very time consuming task with lots of isopropyl alcohol, red scotch pads, and a roll of paper towels. 
Luckily I had found a great deal on some Tesa and had it on hand to try. 
I can't personally speak to removal but installing it was night and day easier. It stretches just the right amount and lays down very smoothly, conforming to the rim nicely. From what I can tell it removes easy as well but the long term will be the true test. I have heard good things from others so I don't expect any issues. 
It's also much stronger and thicker than Tyvek and truly only needs one wrap on a regular MTB wheel. 
Just thought I'd update with my experience.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

For some years using tesa 4289 and 64284 tape. Removing is easy all the way, no any residue left.


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## Octopuss (May 30, 2020)

Has anyone tried Muc-Off tape? It's barely known around here, but it looks interesting. I tried the green CafeLatex one and it doesn't stretch at all even when heated up, so the contact with the rims is hardly perfect. Not like it matters since there will be a lot of pressure in the tyres though.


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## Octopuss (May 30, 2020)

Tested it for you.
It's awesome!
Very slightly stretchy yet strong, and the glue is good. Very easy to work with. The tires held air even without sealant on first inflation.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

a year ago I ordered this tape from ali express: 3.17US $ |Tensilized Strapping Tape for Bicycle Tubeless Rim 9.14m 23/25/27/29/32/34mm Evenly Adhere for Long Lasting Hold Less Residue|Bicycle Tires| - AliExpress and mentioned in this thread how well it works. I went to order more and aliexpress for some reason is not accepting my payment unless i send pics of my id and CC, not sure i want to do that and is really odd. Has anyone figured out an equivalent /rebrand of this tape, not from aliexpress??


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

dwyooaj said:


> a year ago I ordered this tape from ali express: 3.17US $ |Tensilized Strapping Tape for Bicycle Tubeless Rim 9.14m 23/25/27/29/32/34mm Evenly Adhere for Long Lasting Hold Less Residue|Bicycle Tires| - AliExpress and mentioned in this thread how well it works. I went to order more and aliexpress for some reason is not accepting my payment unless i send pics of my id and CC, not sure i want to do that and is really odd. Has anyone figured out an equivalent /rebrand of this tape, not from aliexpress??


This is what I've been using with excellent results. I do two wraps to cover entire rim bed.









Scotch Strapping Tape 8896, Blue, 24 mm x 55 m: Industrial Filament Tape: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Scotch Strapping Tape 8896, Blue, 24 mm x 55 m: Industrial Filament Tape: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## mtbboy1993 (Apr 6, 2015)

some hate Gorilla tape cus of the adheisive that remains, but if you remove it slowly and gentle, none to minimal residue remains, and if doing it aggressively and fast huge amounts of adhesive will remain.
When you remove gorilla tape slowly and gentle:









when you remove Gorilla tape brutally and fast:









Gorilla tape Album


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## mtbboy1993 (Apr 6, 2015)

My experience







with Schwalbe tape has been awful you can read my my review


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