# Klein Pulse brake cable setup questions



## woodenpaddler (Aug 2, 2004)

I'm wondering if some of you Klein experts can tell me the right way to set up the rear brake cable on a 1995 Pulse. I searched around for some photos but couldn't find a good closeup. Do I use some cable housing to protect the frame where the cable passes by the seat tube? I'll put some cantilever brakes on, not V's; seems like the right thing to do for this bike. Thanks!


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## alohachiimoku (Apr 7, 2006)

Regular brake housing is too thick to inside a frame. You need 1/8'' poly tubing(Plastic) that can be found at hardware store.

Good Luck!


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## Guest (May 18, 2007)

woodenpaddler said:


> I'm wondering if some of you Klein experts can tell me the right way to set up the rear brake cable on a 1995 Pulse. I searched around for some photos but couldn't find a good closeup. Do I use some cable housing to protect the frame where the cable passes by the seat tube? I'll put some cantilever brakes on, not V's; seems like the right thing to do for this bike. Thanks!


yes, you need a "liner" which is a thin hydraulic tube which runs from inside of the frame to the brake bridge.










usually the frames come with liner from the cable entry to the brake bridge. somone either has pulled it out or it is broken off and the remainder is inside of the frame. maybe you can see it sitting in the cable entry.

same goes for the shifter cables. they should run in a short piece of the liner (1" inside the frame and 1" outside is enough) so they dont cut into the frame at the exit points.

the long liner running from entry to exit helps to route the cables through the frame but should be taken out after the cables are installed as it increases drag and makes down shifting more diffcult.

Carsten


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## mckeand13 (Nov 6, 2004)

Carsten said:


> Carsten


Odd seatpost clamp. Never seen that before. What is it?


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## Guest (May 18, 2007)

mckeand13 said:


> Odd seatpost clamp. Never seen that before. What is it?


Klein's ZipGrip seat post clamp attempt. the one on the photo is a prototype/pre-production version. the later versions were rubber coated










inside of the conical shaped seat tube is a conical collet that clamps the seat post when threaded down into the seat tube by twisting the outer lock nut (no idea how to explain that better...)










it was introduced in 1994 but it was quickly realised that it did not prevent the seat post from twisting under certain conditions. the frames were recalled and destroyed. not many survived.

Carsten


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## woodenpaddler (Aug 2, 2004)

The flared end of the liner is there at the brake cable entrance and looking closer I can see the liner ends just inside the rear hole on the top tube. So I'll find something to replace that. Both the shift cable liners are intact; maybe I can use one those for the brake and use shorter lines for the shift cables as you noted.


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## Guest (May 19, 2007)

woodenpaddler said:


> The flared end of the liner is there at the brake cable entrance and looking closer I can see the liner ends just inside the rear hole on the top tube. So I'll find something to replace that. Both the shift cable liners are intact; maybe I can use one those for the brake and use shorter lines for the shift cables as you noted.


you probably have to pull the rear brake cable out and then screw a wood screw into the flared end so you can pull the liner out. screw it in tight enough so that it doesnt slip out but not too tight as it then would widen and clamp the liner in the inlet.

you can re-route the inner cable easily if you position the frame such that the exit hole is at the deepest point. make a slight bend into the end of the cable, hold it along the top tube from entry to exit hole so that it would just stick out of the exit hole, mark the cable with an Edding where the entry is. push the cable into the tob tube but not further than to the mark. then fiddle aroudn back and forth, turn it a bit and it should find the exit hole. you can also hold a strong enough magnet close to the exit hole to guide the cable.

Carsten


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

Carsten said:


> Carsten


nice paint 

the self tapping wood screw tip works really well


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## woodenpaddler (Aug 2, 2004)

Thanks for the suggestions. No problem getting the liner out with just a fingernail.

I note that the earlier Kleins have a simple hole at an angle in the top tube for the rear brake cable. The 95 Pulse frame I have has a small protusion at the cable exit, but is still not a real cable stop like on later frames for V-brakes. I guess I could drill out the top tube and run continuous cable if I decide to do V-brakes, but rally hate to do that. I read in some other threads there may be a Klein adapter for V-brakes for around 94-95 models; can anyone show me a picture of that? thanks!


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2007)

woodenpaddler said:


> I guess I could drill out the top tube and run continuous cable if I decide to do V-brakes, but rally hate to do that. I read in some other threads there may be a Klein adapter for V-brakes for around 94-95 models; can anyone show me a picture of that? thanks!


yes, please dont drill the cable exit. that's the V-daptor, difficult to find. it is not perfectly set up in the pic but you get the idea. it was meant to be zip-tied to the top tube but also works without zip-tie. you could also use a hanger attached to the seat post clamp like i have seen on some Serotta MTBs


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

I have the same adapter on my Fervor. I remember paying what I thought was "too much" for that little dodad. I was surprised at how much the V-brakes flexed the big seatstays, I use a booster to keep things "together".
I think the adapter actually came with a drill bit, no?


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2007)

KDXdog said:


> I have the same adapter on my Fervor. I remember paying what I thought was "too much" for that little dodad. I was surprised at how much the V-brakes flexed the big seatstays, I use a booster to keep things "together".
> I think the adapter actually came with a drill bit, no?


yes, it came with a drill bit. i never needed the drill bit though, the exit holes were always large enough and the drill bit was only a hair larger than the holes anyways. guess it was more meant to remove exessive paint. that adaptor was not meant for the Fervor as the exit hole is not sculpted and thus does not provide a stop for the adaptor. the adaptor sooner or later will eat into the tube.

Carsten


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## fervor (Aug 4, 2005)

Yes it does!!! Mine has a nice grove worn into it.



Carsten said:


> yes, it came with a drill bit. i never needed the drill bit though, the exit holes were always large enough and the drill bit was only a hair larger than the holes anyways. guess it was more meant to remove exessive paint. that adaptor was not meant for the Fervor as the exit hole is not sculpted and thus does not provide a stop for the adaptor. the adaptor sooner or later will eat into the tube.
> 
> Carsten


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

I have to say that is one area where Klein was a disappointment, you have a $3k bike and you have a zip tie over the fancy paint job. I thought Klein was slow on the uptake in regards to v-brakes and was surprised they didn't build in v-brake compatibility earlier.

I too keep an eye on the frame where the adapter goes into the tube. It moves slightly when braking but so far not enough to do any harm.

Pinguwin


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

> that adaptor was not meant for the Fervor as the exit hole is not sculpted and thus does not provide a stop for the adaptor. The adaptor sooner or later will eat into the tube.


I've always kept an eye on it, no problems, and it's been at least many(10?) years. She may not have a sculpted hole, she's still sweet!


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## cojkrieg (Jun 23, 2009)

Has anyone come across a supplier (in recent years) for the above described V-dapter which can be used as a cable stop on a Klein?


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Nope, not recently. They are very hard to find on ebay or in VRC circles.

There are ways to make a similar one using parts that you can get from biketoolsetc.com Do some searches here in VRC, both Carsten and I have posted info on it, I don't have time to look it up (I'm on vacation  today but it's posted. If nothing else, contact biketoolsetc and tell them "I am looking for the klein cable adapter thingie" and they will know. In fact he will be able to qoute the exact part numbers for the 4-5 small parts, it's impressive.


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## cojkrieg (Jun 23, 2009)

*Homemade V-dapter*

After failing to find the fabled V-dapter I put on my creative handy-man cap and made a workaround that is working well. Thought I would share with all in case anyone else does a vintage Klein to V-Brake conversion...

Materials:
1 - presta valve cap
1 - cable end (tip with one end slightly flared -standard tip)
5/64 - drill bit
7/64 - drill bit
old screwdriver or similar flat metal edge

Instructions:
1.) use the 5/64 drill bit to drill through the tip of the cable end. It should just fit inside and create a hole just big enough that the brake cable can now clean slip through the cable end
2.) use the 7/64 drill bit to drill through the end of the presta valve cap
3.) drop the drilled out cable tip into the presta cap with the flared end back and use the 7/64 bit to push it through the drilled hole in the cap. The flare will not fit through and give you a similar contraption as the V-dapter
4.) heat a metal surface (I used a flat head screw driver over the flame of my stove) and use it to melt one side of the presta cap and shape it flat so it lays better against the top tube once the cable is laced.

That should do the trick!

I think I attached pics if anyone wants to see the homemade V-dapter but just getting the hang of this forum so we'll see if they appear after I post this...


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## KDXdog (Mar 15, 2007)

My 2 cents: That cap isn't going to last under the stress of the cable. It may LOOK like the v adapter, but man, I wouldn't trust it on a long downhill.

The stainless guide in the adaptor is a lot stronger than a cable-tip, which is made to be crushed. 

I'm also guessing the cap will bust before any frame damage can occur....do it again, but with stronger materials!


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