# Oh no caliper hits the spokes



## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

Niner RDO fork with black flag expert rims I've tried elixir 1, haynes 9, hayes something else and hayes el camino. 

so after all the haynes brakes i figure ill try some avids from my other XC bike. but oh no they don't fit either. 160 mm rotor and i need maybe 2 mm of clearance. 

what do i have to buy to make this work. I'm not changing the offset on the rims.

:madman:


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

*picture*

forgot the picture


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 12, 2012)

I'm not familiar with post-mount callipers but would it possible to put shims(washers) behind each of the rotor's mounting bolts to shift the rotor away from the hub? Are the holes in the calliper mounting round or slotted?
The other question would be if the wheel is dished correctly? Anyhow, just my first thoughts that come to mind. Others may have other suggestions....


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

that avid caliper is missing the cps washers


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## jhymel (May 27, 2009)

Try a bigger rotor to get the caliper further away from the hub.


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

*Bike so far*

what are the CPS washers.

i checked to see if the "dish" was correct and it is, that was my first thought but those are brand new rims.

heres a picture so far i'm still waiting in the orange race face bash ring and i will eventually upgrade the rear brake from the cheap hayes but i couldn't go all out in round one i like to recycle in some old parts. My favorite being the Fuji seat from my old college commuter bike.

hows the color cream cycle anyone


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

can't do that one. the niner RDO carbon fork has a max rotor size of 160 otherwise id be riding right now vs debating it. i even have a adapter.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 12, 2012)

That's a sweet looking ride! Hopefully with some other help here you will have that spinning....


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Shim the rotor outboard.

Syntace Disc Brake Rotor Shims - $12.00 - Bike Parts 360


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 12, 2012)

ep1nephr1ne; if the rotors were to be shimmed out; can the callipers also be adjusted outboard with the post mount?
If so; you could remove the brake pads from the callipers and shift the callipers out enough until it clears the spokes. Then you will see how many "mm" it needs to come out....


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## thomllama (Oct 3, 2007)

where did you get the brakes/caliper.. not sure but it kinda looks like the older tandem specific caliper which are a bit bigger??


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

https://www.google.com/search?q=avi...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a


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## mudflapper (May 30, 2009)

Can you please give us a picture from the caliper side? I'd like to see how the caliper is mounted and the spacer used for your hub. I'd also like to point out that I've never seen brake pads held in with a cotter pin!!!!! Someone has already pointed out where are the CPS mounting bolts that Avid use?


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

*Weird spoke lacing*

The spoke lacing on that front wheel is probably not helping either. On every wheel build I've ever seen spokes coming from the outside of the hub flange cross *under* at the 2nd cross (the one just above the caliper in your picture). I think because Ringle have the spoke crossing over it sticks out just that little bit more which is causing a clearance issue. Short of rebuilding that wheel the only other solution is to shim the rotor outboard further and hopefully you have enough play in the caliper mounting bolts to allow the caliper to shift outboard with the rotor.


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## jhymel (May 27, 2009)

ep1nephr1ne said:


> can't do that one. the niner RDO carbon fork has a max rotor size of 160 otherwise id be riding right now vs debating it. i even have a adapter.


You sure about that? Niner spec sheet says 185 is the max. I also have a friend riding the same fork with a 185 on it without issue. Think you need to look again.


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## nov0798 (Nov 27, 2005)

I would agree with kwarwick, I think its a lacing issue on the wheels. If that 2nd cross crossed under instead of over you would have more clearance. In addition, are those straight gauged spokes or are they double butted?

Also why would you use a 2x lacing pattern? (thats what it appears to be). Typically 2x lacing is used on road wheels, I would have personally used a 3x especially for the rear wheel on a mountain bike. 

Also, hate to ask, but Ive never used post mounted calipers, but are the post mount that same as an IS mount? Are they interchangeable?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Yup, another vote for kwarwick and nov0798 here. Not only is your front wheel 2x which isn't the best pattern for a 29" disc brake mountain wheel, but the spokes don't actually cross each other. Who built the wheel you?

Aside from that, it looks like the the pads in the caliper are offset to the outside. This would move the caliper itself closer to the wheel. Check to see if you have enough adjustment in the mounting bolts to slide the caliper to the outside. If you do, retract the pistons and re-position the caliper.


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

"Also, hate to ask, but Ive never used post mounted calipers, but are the post mount that same as an IS mount? Are they interchangeable?"

No, post mounts and IS mounts aren't the same. A post mount is exactly what the name implies, a 74mm spaced post mounting system. The IS mount is a 54mm spaced tab system. Most modern disc brakes are set up to mount directly to a 74mm post mount, without the use of an adapter, when a 160mm rotor is used. This is dependent on the length of the posts on the fork though. Some road/cyclo cross bikes are coming with 140mm post mounts (140mm rotor with no adapter, the posts are shorter), and some beefier freeride, DH forks come with mounts that allow the use of a 180mm rotor with no adapter, the posts are longer. 

Very few manufacturers make IS specific brakes anymore. But some of the older IS calipers were direct mount. However most modern brakes are adaptable to an IS mount fork or frame. An adapter is required of course, but they are readily available. And if you do have IS specific calipers they can be adapted to work with a post mount fork, but you do usually have to go 1 rotor size up. In other words, if you have an IS direct mount caliper for a 160mm rotor (the most common), you can get an adapter to mate it to a post mount fork, but you'd have to use a 180mm rotor. 

Anyway, we'd have to see your calipers or know the exact model, year etc. of them to give you a specific answer on what you'd need to adapt them to a post mount. 

Hope that helps a little anyway.

Good Dirt


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## FoCo29er (Dec 5, 2010)

what you need is a bike shop. You are missing the CPS washers on that caliper which will move the caliper further out from the center of the axle. I am actually kind of surprised that the rotor is not bottomed out on the caliper. I have avid brakes on my rdo fork with black flag wheels and it works great.

This pic shows the CPS hardware:
Amazon.com: Avid CPS Bicycle Brake Hardware (Standard): Sports & Outdoors


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

FoCo29er said:


> what you need is a bike shop. You are missing the CPS washers on that caliper which will move the caliper further out from the center of the axle. I am actually kind of surprised that the rotor is not bottomed out on the caliper. I have avid brakes on my rdo fork with black flag wheels and it works great.
> 
> This pic shows the CPS hardware:
> Amazon.com: Avid CPS Bicycle Brake Hardware (Standard): Sports & Outdoors


Actually the Elixir 1 brakes *do not* use CPS washers for the caliper mounting system, unlike every other Avid disc brake I know of. Just one of the features they removed to bring down the cost of these brakes.


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

*All thank you much*

Been too busy to build the bike between training and work I appreciate all the good dope not a big fan of Avid in general I might just switch to hope however it's interesting to note the rim lacing will look more into that. For now I'm on hold. Did ride the bike with just a rear brake was nice but a little sketchy. 18x32 gearing seams ok but will look to 34x16 for some flatter rides. I'll post again when I get a chance to catch up race sat morning


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

*Update*

First of all I road the bike for the first time in a race March 10th. I got 1st place overall and if it wasn't for the new super light super fast amazing bike and a healthy dose of insanity i would not have won. moving on I still have a brake issue,

The avid elixer 1 brake is trash and its not even keeping up with my old haynes downhill brake on the rear. getting back to the clearance issue for the race i used SS washers as shims to move the rotor out. this gave me enough room to get the wheel on and the rotor inside the piston but it still rubs and looking at the picture its all jacked up. rotor is flat but the clipper is jacked.

I want to drop some cash on a nice set up but before i drop a few franklins i want to know what will work. i'm thinking shimano, formula, or hope but I'm good with anything that performs well and doesn't rub. No elixir special bleed kit. don't get me started on that

Who wants to buy an elixir 1 front?


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## WrecklessREX (Feb 25, 2011)

I just checked my ringle charger experts and the outer spoke on the hub crosses under the second spoke. Your front outer spokes are crossing outside of the second spoke and may be whats causing the rub issue.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Yes, please fix your wheel. The way it's laced now is weaker and will allow it to flex more.


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## ep1nephr1ne (Jan 25, 2009)

so was the wheel built wrong or is this just the way the rims came. even for the $500 clearance price tag id expect them to be correct. the black flag experts had great reviews.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

ep1nephr1ne said:


> so was the wheel built wrong or is this just the way the rims came. even for the $500 clearance price tag id expect them to be correct. the black flag experts had great reviews.


It doesn't really matter how they meant to do it, because how it's been done is wrong. While only using 2x for a mountain wheel is IMO questionable, the fact they don't actually cross the spokes is just wrong; there's really no way to justify it.

At a minimum you should unlace the rim and rebuild it correctly crossing the spokes. A better option would be to buy new spokes and lace it 3x.


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