# Trek Marlin 5 vs. Marin Rock Springs 1???



## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

I've decided to get back into riding Mountain Bikes...after 25 years and finally knee replacement over the summer. I am looking at the Marin Rock Springs 1 and the Trek Marlin 5. I'm not looking to spend a ton. Trying to stay around $500. Let me know your thoughts on which one of the two you think is better or if there is something out there you recommend. I want a 29er and need an XL frame, since I am 6'2 and long arms. Appreciate any help and looking forward to getting back out there!!!

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/marin-rock-spring-1-mountain-bike-performance-exclusive-31-7054

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/marlin/marlin-5/p/21475/


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

Those are real comparable. As are most new bikes at that price point. And they both (all) have the common flaw of a coil fork.

Depending on where you live and the "activeness" of the MTB community, you might find a used bike with a little better setup (ie an air fork and hydraulic disc brakes) at or below that price point. Or a very comparable bike below that price point.

You aren't going to do markedly better new without roughly doubling your budget.

Between those two, the Marin has slightly better derailleurs.

EDIT: Good thing you are a big fella, cuz if you can stretch your budget to $750, this right here is your huckleberry. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BULLS-Copperhead-29-Plus-Shimano-XT-Groupset-22in-56cm/263779591990

I don't think you can beat that new, it has a very decent component set, including an air fork and pretty decent hydro brakes.

Hmm, maybe scratch that as it may be too big.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

Hey, I see you are in Texas. What part?


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## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

I'm in Frisco... And thanks for the info. ... I failed to mention the other two I am looking at too are Orbea Mx 50 29 and the Fuji Nevada 29 1.9 2018


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

I'm in central Dallas. Yep, those are all about the same.


The air fork is the big dividing line between the lower-entry-level hardtails running about $500 t0 $750 and the better ones running closer to $1000. You also get better components otherwise, most especially drivetrain and brakes. But that air fork is what makes the biggest difference.

The coil forks have a spring that is designed/calibrated (has a spring rate), for an average rider, whatever that may mean, probably around 175 lbs. If you are heavier or lighter, it won't be ideal. Also, the cheaper coil forks (there are expensive ones), don't have much in the way of damping or adjustment. So you wind up with a fork that does move and absorb some trail "energy," but it doesn't do it in the same way as a more adjustable air fork does. It's quite noticeable.

That said, though, you can get on the trail and have some fun with any of those.

Also, I have both an entry level hardtail, pretty comparable to those and a better FS bike that I would be happy to let you ride if you wanted to meet at one of the local trails (and assuming I can fit them both on my rack). I might even part with the hardtail for around $300. Maybe. It isn't the greatest bike, but it's my first and I remain kind of attached to it. They are both "L" frames (I'm 6-1) but they wont cramp you to death and might even fit you pretty well (you may be a bit of a tweener).


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## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

Hey Man...Totally appreciate the offer on the bike... But< I am going to try to purchase something new. I know some think its crazy, but I want the new bright and shiny. LOL. Definitely thank you for the input also.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

In general bikes at a price point are the same, one might have a slightly better derailleur or hubs or something else. What matters the most is how they fit you ,there is where there is a difference . Test ride,borrow ,rent ,demo, as many bikes as you can.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

DismalReindeer said:


> Hey Man...Totally appreciate the offer on the bike... But< I am going to try to purchase something new. I know some think its crazy, but I want the new bright and shiny. LOL. Definitely thank you for the input also.


I hear you. Good luck on your quest.

One thing that might be worth looking out for is a 2x drivetrain. 3x has a lot of duplication in the range, but, more importantly, puts a lot of slack in the chain and makes it easier to throw it or get chain suck, plus it rattles around quite a lot. While 1x is the ultimate improvement on this situation, 2x is better than 3x and doesn't sacrifice any gears.

Normally, I wouldn't advise a newb to get too worked up about drivetrain, but this might be an exception. Probably isn't worth getting worked up over, but might be a differentiation point between a lot of pretty similar bikes.


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## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

There you go... I just learned something new. Had no idea about this either. UGH.. Thank you, though!!


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## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

Just about to google this now too. Ha


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

When I read the title of this thread, I thought a bicycle deathmatch was about to happen!


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## DismalReindeer (Aug 29, 2018)

LOL. Didn't think about that subject, but you are right. A bit misleading. My apologies, man. Funny comment though.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

One other thought on entry-level bikes. There is always the notion that you can upgrade what isn't great on a lower-price bike. However, there are some characteristics that make that more difficult than it may seem. For one, cheaper bikes almost always have a straight (not tapered) headtube, whereas most modern forks have tapered steerers (the Suntour upgrade program I think helps you avoid this and there is also the Manitou Markhor fork).

Also, the lower cost bikes tend to come with 9mm Quick-Release (QR) hubs and dropouts, whereas more upscale bikes have 12 and 15mm through-axles. This is going to limit your new wheel choice to some extent. Also, you might find a bargain straight steerer air fork that fits (yay!) but that has a 15mm through axle dropout (boo!), necessitating a new front wheel or hub. 

Similarly, the bottom bracket and hubs and some other stuff may limit your ability to upgrade the drivetrain to 1x or 2x.

Anyway, just a few nasty surprises for the unwary.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

DismalReindeer said:


> LOL. Didn't think about that subject, but you are right. A bit misleading. My apologies, man. Funny comment though.


No worries! It's a great thread title! It changes things up around here. We get a lot of "should I choose brand x or brand y?" threads.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

3x *may* be more prone to throwing a chain when you're on a downhill segment _*if for some reason *_ you've left the front crankset in the granny gear(smallest). Otherwise no. And that granny hardly gets used so no way I would choose a double because of that. And you can install a clutch rear derailleur to hold the chain tight anyway.

The real reason to get a triple is the 32t center chainring on a triple. That gear is often all you need. It's the gear you usually see on singles. So you don't have to shift the front gear at all. Or maybe once a ride outside of flat approach riding.
So you ride your favorite trail and just use the gears in the rear cluster. Those shift easier with much less issues.
But you can't do that as much if you have a double up front. You have a 38t and 22t or 36t and 26t. You can't climb hills with a 38 or 36t if you're an ordinary rider. And you can't ride flatter segments with a 28 or 26t. You have to shift numerous times to get around your riding loop. Front shifts are always more difficult. Triple - no front shifts vs double - multiple difficult front shifts.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

eb1888 said:


> 3x *may* be more prone to throwing a chain when you're on a downhill segment _*if for some reason *_ you've left the front crankset in the granny gear(smallest). Otherwise no. And that granny hardly gets used so no way I would choose a double because of that. And you can install a clutch rear derailleur to hold the chain tight anyway.
> 
> The real reason to get a triple is the 32t center chainring on a triple. That gear is often all you need. It's the gear you usually see on singles. So you don't have to shift the front gear at all. Or maybe once a ride outside of flat approach riding.
> So you ride your favorite trail and just use the gears in the rear cluster. Those shift easier with much less issues.
> But you can't do that as much if you have a double up front. You have a 38t and 22t or 36t and 26t. You can't climb hills with a 38 or 36t if you're an ordinary rider. And you can't ride flatter segments with a 28 or 26t. You have to shift numerous times to get around your riding loop. Front shifts are always more difficult. Triple - no front shifts vs double - multiple difficult front shifts.


Fair enough. I never came out of the middle ring on my 3x, but I did have the chain bouncing around quite a bit and got the dreaded chain suck here and there, as well as dropping it a few times. I no longer recall the specific circumstances, but I don't believe it involved the granny gear.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

That's the real beauty of a triple. You never have to come out of the middle ring. 
And if you really never use the other two rings you can take them off, get some shorter chain ring bolts and use your front derailleur as a chain guide.
You can cheaply upgrade the rear derailleur to a clutch model. That stops chain bounce and makes your bike quieter.


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