# Wet application of vinyl decals?



## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

I've purchased some vinyl decals for my bike but I have no experience in vinyl decal application.

They're not that expensive, but I'd rather not screw it up if I can help it.

While browsing around, I found a website that discussed creating your own vinyl application fluid. "Wet Application Fluid: You can make you own application fluid with 4 drops of dishwashing liquid (dawn, joy, or baby shampoo etc.) to 1 quart of water in a spray bottle."

They go on to describe how to use the fluid to properly align and apply the decal.

Has anyone used some type of "wet application fluid" for your vinyl decals? Was it a homebrew or something off the shelf? How did it work out for you?


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## Mr.Magura (Aug 11, 2010)

marpilli said:


> I've purchased some vinyl decals for my bike but I have no experience in vinyl decal application.
> 
> They're not that expensive, but I'd rather not screw it up if I can help it.
> 
> ...


The "wet" application method is the smart way of applying decals in general. 
I have used that method frequently, and I am yet to have a bad result.

I used to do it the "eyeball" way, but was taught the "wet" method by my , whom does decals for a living.

The amount of dishwashing liquid is really a matter of a drop in a pint of water. It should be dishwashing liquid, as it is there to brake the surface tension of the water, which you can't count on other soaps to do.

Finally you should find an old credit card, for scraping the water out from under the decal, once the decal is positioned and so forth. The ideal tool is a credit card covered in some soft textile. I got something like that from my neighbor, that is meant for the purpose, but have never seen such a tool for sale anywhere.

Magura


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## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

I've seen the method used on larger decals to get them in position. I just used the "eyebal" method of lining up when I put decals on my bike after it was painted. Worked for me and my application. YMMV


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Window Tint is put on the same way, you can get a squeegee at most auto parts stores it comes in a kit for applying window tint. If your doing a big decal it may be a good product to get, for small ones a card would do. scrape it easy!!!


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## bsieb (Aug 23, 2003)

You can also use the transfer tape to hold it in alignment if you cut it larger than the decal along a long edge and then align it before removing the backing paper. When it's aligned stick the extra transfer tape to the frame like a hinge, lift the decal enough to remove the backing, then lay it back down and press it on well, then remove transfer tape. This would be for a smallish decal like a bike sticker.

edit: I guess if you ordered them they will have the transfer tape applied and cut already. Use masking tape over the transfer tape for a hinge.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Windex works well too :thumbsup:


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## marpilli (Feb 8, 2011)

Noclutch said:


> Windex works well too


I remember reading somewhere they said only use _ammonia-free_ windex. Something about the ammonia releasing gas and causing bubbles under the decal.

Did you use regular windex? It worked OK long-term for you?

Thanks to all of the responses so far. Decals are in the mail. I'll let you know what I used and how well it worked (or didn't work).


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

marpilli said:


> I remember reading somewhere they said only use _ammonia-free_ windex. Something about the ammonia releasing gas and causing bubbles under the decal.
> 
> Did you use regular windex? It worked OK long-term for you?
> 
> Thanks to all of the responses so far. Decals are in the mail. I'll let you know what I used and how well it worked (or didn't work).


I've done lots of decals and moto number plate backings(paper palte sized ) this way, usually with multisurface windex. More slickery and gives you more positioning time. Can't remember a fail. YMMV though....
Plus, once you have squeegied all the liguid out, what ever it is, there shouldn't be enough to cause any problems. If you do get a bubble that you can not move to the edge and burp- just aspirate it with a needle and syringe and flatten it, or cut over it about 1/8" and then work the liquid out- you'll never see the hole/cut. Most vinyl/stickies are porous anyways, and bubles also will often "magically disappear" anyways with time. And shrink. Metalic/foil ones are a bit different it seems.


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