# How High Should Your Seat be...?



## LOVELESS (Aug 15, 2008)

Hello, Sorry if this has already been posted..

I'm currently 6' 2-3" Tall and 240-50 pound, I would like to know what is the recommended hight or how high should your seat be.. for someone my hight..

I heard setting the wrong hight may damage the frame for someone heavy,

I have an 09 Cannondale F7 Size Large
http://img388.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2222wy2.jpg


----------



## Team Fubar Rider (Sep 3, 2003)

Well, Loveless, there are really 2 issues here, your seat height in regard to your leg length and how much seatpost is in your frame.

The first one, and there are MANY different methods of finding the right height, is fairly straight forward. Your seat (for general XC style riding) should be high enough that when your cranks are parallel with your seat tube, your leg with the foot that is in the "down" position should have a slight bend in it, but almost straight. Raise your post until you get to this point, but no further. If you feel your hips rocking from side to side, then you've gone too far. 

Now, your seatpost should not be raised higher than the minimum insertion line marked on the post (usually about 2 inches from the bottom). If it is, then you need to buy a longer post. A good rule of thumb is the bottom of your post should extend down past the junction of the seat tube and the top tube. 

I question why a person that is 6' 2-3" tall is on a large anyhow? I would think an XL C'Dale would be a much better fit. I'm only 6' even and I am borderline between a L and XL in the C'Dale world.

Anyhow, hope this all helps!


----------



## LOVELESS (Aug 15, 2008)

I think I got it, I hope...

as for the size, I have no clue.. My LBS said its a 20" bike

I have about 1" of clearance from the Top Tube when both foot is flat to the ground..
I guess that means its a perfect fit..?


----------



## Team Fubar Rider (Sep 3, 2003)

Standover is an antiquated way to measure a bike's fit. Really, the top tube length is a better measurement. If your shop fit you to it and they say it is the right size, I'd probably trust it.


----------



## Guyechka (Jul 19, 2005)

The easiest way to get saddle height right is to raise it until your leg is completely straight (but without hyperextension) when you put your heel on the pedal in its most downward position. 

I did this with two different bikes, not measuring the saddle height until afterward. When I did take the measurement, they were within an 1/8" of each other.

Also, if you are into dropping your saddle on downhills or technical sections, mark your seatpost so that it is easy to find your optimal height again afterward. A slight scoring will work, just enough so that it is barely visible.


----------



## LOVELESS (Aug 15, 2008)

I've tried the suggestion today, but It really makes me feel uncomfortable, as not being able to touch the ground w/ my toe at least...
isnt't that unsafe..?

how could you guys ride like that...


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

LOVELESS said:


> I've tried the suggestion today, but It really makes me feel uncomfortable, as not being able to touch the ground w/ my toe at least...
> isnt't that unsafe..?
> 
> how could you guys ride like that...


We ride like that for the best pedaling efficiency. When it's time to put a foot or feet down, we just get off the saddle and straddle the top tube and then put a foot down as we come to a stop. That's why 'standover height' needs to be considered when purchasing a bike.

Beach cruisers are made so you can sit on the seat and touch the ground, but they are not efficient pedaling like this. If you're climbing steep hills and / or riding long distances on your MTB, having your saddle at the appropriate height should have been a revalation.

Then again, there are times when descending that I lower my saddle so it doesn't get in the way.

Lots of good reading on saddles here:

http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html


----------



## IAMSPECIALIZED (Aug 31, 2008)

+1 +1

These noted methods to get a good baseline seat height are right on. Getting a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke ( roughly 30 degrees ) is the most efficient and better on your knees. 
The lower the saddle from 30 degrees the more force you put behind your knee cap, hence why some riders complain of sore knees during and after riding.
It may seem a little awkward or uncomfortable at first, but once you are pedaling it will feel the best:thumbsup:


----------



## Guyechka (Jul 19, 2005)

Yes, it looks ugly getting on and off the bike, but it works. I suffer from tendonitis in one knee, and I'm much more concerned with getting my saddle at a height that will alleviate any unnecessary pressure on my tendon. 

It takes about as much getting used to as using clipless pedals. Once you start riding with your saddle at the correct height, you won't want to go back.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Guyechka said:


> The easiest way to get saddle height right is to raise it until your leg is completely straight (but without hyperextension) when you put your heel on the pedal in its most downward position.


Or a development of that: pedal with your heels. Raise until you can barely do it without rocking your hips. The bend of the knee should be pretty good when you pedal with the ball of the foot.

When riding for some distance, you want the best position for efficient and effortless pedaling. The seat height (and forward-rearward positioning) is a key element in this.

When you stop, you get out of the saddle to put your feet down. My bikes are pretty low (low BB) so I can touch the ground with my toes while seated but it is not comfortable. You should not always be glued to the seat anyway: in a mountain bike's natural environment you constantly face situations where the best thing is to stand up.


----------



## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

IAMSPECIALIZED said:


> +1 +1
> 
> These noted methods to get a good baseline seat height are right on. Getting a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke ( roughly 30 degrees ) is the most efficient and better on your knees.
> The lower the saddle from 30 degrees the more force you put behind your knee cap, hence why some riders complain of sore knees during and after riding.
> It may seem a little awkward or uncomfortable at first, but once you are pedaling it will feel the best:thumbsup:


Exactly,he knows what he's talking about.


----------



## Mojo Man (Sep 1, 2007)

*Seat Too High*



IAMSPECIALIZED said:


> +1 +1
> 
> These noted methods to get a good baseline seat height are right on. Getting a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke ( roughly 30 degrees ) is the most efficient and better on your knees.
> The lower the saddle from 30 degrees the more force you put behind your knee cap, hence why some riders complain of sore knees during and after riding.
> It may seem a little awkward or uncomfortable at first, but once you are pedaling it will feel the best:thumbsup:


I've read somewhere on this forum that a seat too high will cause lower back pain. Is this true?

david


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

All sorts of things can cause pains in the back. Unsuitable riding position is one. Weak core muscles, wrong kind of shoes, ...


----------



## bigdudecycling (Aug 16, 2007)

Team Fubar Rider said:


> If your shop fit you to it and they say it is the right size, I'd probably trust it.


That may depend on the quality of the shop. I bought a bike about 5 years back that the shop said was just right, they even did a fit. I really was new to cycling so I just trusted them. Then I moved to AZ and went to a pretty well respected shop and they pretty much laughed. The bike was way too small, and it looked like a clown bike. They were right, once I got the 'right size' my riding took off. So just make sure the shop telling you it is right is a respected one. Now that I know better, the well known chain I bought it from is kinda known for just pushing what they have on the floor to clear the inventory.


----------



## bigpedaler (Jan 29, 2007)

Remember the KISS principle....
On the saddle, one pedal all the way down, heel on that pedal -- leg should be straight; forget all this business about degrees of angle while pedaling. And 'getting used' to the new position, IF it's right or even close, wil be no problem -- your pedaling will feel nearly effortless when properly dialed in.

When stopping, slide off the front of the saddle and put a foot down. Sorry, but it's not brain surgery.


----------



## LOVELESS (Aug 15, 2008)

Thanks so much for the help, after a few days of getting use to, my legs feels alot better then before...

but I did run into a little problem, my saddle moves right or left sometimes... I guess its my weight or the grease, I've tighten it very well,


----------



## Team Fubar Rider (Sep 3, 2003)

You shouldn't have any grease on your seatpost. Pull it out, clean it off with some solvent, clean the inside of the seattube out and you should be good to go. If you're worried about your post seizing to the frame, a small bit of anti-seize (purchased at a bike shop or any automotive store) will keep this from happening.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Team Fubar Rider said:


> If you're worried about your post seizing to the frame, a small bit of anti-seize (purchased at a bike shop or any automotive store) will keep this from happening.


You have to have something there. A small amount of grease works for most but anti-seize might be even better.

Or... what exactly is moving left or right? Not the seat breaking or the head of the post coming apart?


----------



## Team Fubar Rider (Sep 3, 2003)

I had an issue with a bike that I used a Control Tech post on (they had a smooth finish) slipping down. I cleaned it all up and used a tiny bit of anti-seize and no more issues. Also, I took the moving side to side of the OP as the post twisting in the frame, which begs the question; is the post the right size? I mean, if it is cranked down and it still moves, is there a 27.0 post in a 27.2 frame? 

And, to Bigdude, that is why I said "probably". I know there are many LBS's out there that only want to move inventory and not do the "right thing" for the consumer. But...if a person asks around, they can find out if the shop they used is reputable or not. I do hear you though, just because a shop said it was the right size may not make it so.


----------

