# 29er Wheels for 250 lb Clyde



## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

Hey everyone,

I bought a new 2017 Trek Marlin 7 and on my 5th ride I tacoed the front wheel after landing a jump and ended up separating my AC Joint. I am almost 2 months out of surgery and I am trying to get my bike ready for my return, so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a new wheel that can handle my weight (250 lbs) and doesn't cost a fortune. I am definitely afraid of falling again so I want to make sure my wheel can support me and give me the peace of mind when I am ripping through the rocky trails here in AZ. I went to the local Trek store and they recommended the Bonti Duster which is about $180 and I will need a new hub for $20. Does anyone know anything about this wheel? I am open to any suggestions as safety and durability is my biggest concern. I also attached the pictures of my wheel after my buddy tried to bend it back to make it easier to get the bike back to the car (it was much worse) 















Thanks,

msuj


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Gravity is not your friend. 250lbs and hucking on a 29er is NEVER going to be a good idea.
I weigh what you do and have never taco'd a wheel. Then again I'm not a huge fan of getting air and do it when it is needed. Given your own injury it sounds like a very hard landing and most 29er wheels wouldn't appreciate that sort of action.
Bonti duster has been a Clyde-friendly rim for a long time.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

You need custom wheels built specifically for your weight and application. There are a number of posters on this board, such as mikesee, who have ample experience with this. You may have a local option, too. I'm not familiar with your area, though.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

TooTallUK said:


> Gravity is not your friend. 250lbs and hucking on a 29er is NEVER going to be a good idea.
> I weigh what you do and have never taco'd a wheel. Then again I'm not a huge fan of getting air and do it when it is needed. Given your own injury it sounds like a very hard landing and most 29er wheels wouldn't appreciate that sort of action.
> Bonti duster has been a Clyde-friendly rim for a long time.


Gravity does suck! I probably shouldn't be jumping around at this weight, but my mind keeps thinking my body is still 18 years old and 180 lbs haha.

I should have done more research on wheel size before I purchased, but I rode the Trek and it was comfortable so I went with it. I don't regret it, but now I just want to set it up the best possible way for my situation. Would you recommend going tubeless? I don't really know the pros and cons to that for someone our size.

Thanks for the info!


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

evasive said:


> You need custom wheels built specifically for your weight and application. There are a number of posters on this board, such as mikesee, who have ample experience with this. You may have a local option, too. I'm not familiar with your area, though.


Thanks for the info! Is it much more expensive to have custom wheels built?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It's not trek or wheel size. It's the bike. You bought a bike for paths, gravel roads, light trail use. Have to buy a bike designed for the purpose or everything but the frame is going to fail sooner than later.

I also have a Trek Marlin, 2012 before they transfered the name to the lowest entry level. Second to last year they used the racing hard tail aluminum frame for "entry bikes". 

I knew what I was buying and I rode it within my abilities and the limits of the abilities of the bike design. Still ride the frame today but nothing on it is original. I'm heavier than you and have had 0 issues except a crash off a wood bridge that finally killed my front wheel. Now I'm running a wheel set I built myself (first attempt ever) and they have been perfect for 2 yrs. Not rims that will handle jumping to the extent I gather you are (spank oozy trail295) but if ridden off small drops, small kicker jumps and 0 issues.

It's just all about the build. Unless you want to start a money pit (which is great if you have the skills and desire to learn, being able to work on every aspect of your own bike is a big money and time saver in the long run) it's better to look into a bike meant for your style of riding. Wheel trashed now, next will be your forks.

I used to hate the guys here that I would read post to other about "your bike is going to fail you because it's not meant for it". Till I learned the hard way. Better bikes are more costly for a reason sadly. To hold up to more abuse and just all around ride better.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

tigris99 said:


> It's not trek or wheel size. It's the bike. You bought a bike for paths, gravel roads, light trail use. Have to buy a bike designed for the purpose or everything but the frame is going to fail sooner than later.
> 
> I also have a Trek Marlin, 2012 before they transfered the name to the lowest entry level. Second to last year they used the racing hard tail aluminum frame for "entry bikes".
> 
> ...


I appreciate the insight! I wish I could afford a more expensive bike, but had to stick with what was in my price range. So do you think that slowly upgrading the parts on my Marlin would be pointless? I don't think I will be jumping much anymore. I'll probably continue to ride the trails here in AZ, but just stick to climbing and short technical downhill areas. Im mainly trying to ride for exercise because I don't like going to the gym haha.

How hard was it to build your wheel set? Im always down to save money by doing things myself, but I just want to have as much knowledge as possible before trying something that could potentially fail on me if I mess something up. I definitely don't need to be getting injured again!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It's not pointless if you want to learn. It allows building a nice bike over time. But it becomes a "money pit" for a while because you keep upgrading things. It's not the most economical unless your able to find good deals (which there are plenty if you look).

Building wheels isn't for everyone. There's a science and an art to it. And it doesn't save you money to start out. They can be built using a bike as a stand but it's challenging. And there is a lot of work involved in learning.

I have 3 bikes of my own now plus my kids. Building wheels is cheaper for me as I don't buy cheap rims. Building 1 wheelset isn't worth the tools and everything. Better just to buy from a reputable builder and be done.

Getting a little air is OK with proper wheels and a better than total crap fork. Hell it's fun and if you keep it to little stuff, you get the smiles without getting hurt or breaking stuff so easily and majorly. Iirc your bike has suntour forks, they have a nice upgrade program (or at least did) where you can get a good set of forks from them for a couple hundred or so.



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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

Ok I'll just stick to buying wheels for now.

They actually upgraded the forks to the RockShox 30 on the 2017 model Marlin 7. The guy at my LBS suggested that my next upgrade aside from the wheels should probably be the brakes as they are the Tektro M285 hydraulic disc brakes.

I know eventually I will want to get a better bike, but until I get more experience riding and caring for it I will stick with my Marlin.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

245lbs here (all kitted up)... I love hucking on my 29er Transition Bandit 1... its got Stans tubeless rims (25 IW). Been huckin' it for almost a year now & have never had to true rims.

My first MTB was a KHS Winslow 29" - I used to taco the rear wheel every 4 or so rides. Cheap, crappy 19 IW rims.

Get some decent wheels or upgrade your whip ^^


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

msuj said:


> Thanks for the info! Is it much more expensive to have custom wheels built?


It's never going to be as cheap as you can find pre-built wheels. But they'll last you longer, and you don't have to spend a fortune, either. Doesn't hurt to email Mike for a quote. If you buy a stock wheelset, you definitely plan to take it to a bike shop and have true and tension checked out.


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## spaztwelve (Apr 14, 2006)

Wheels make a difference. I'm bigger than you and I was riding 28 spoke Syncros wheels (DT Swiss hubs) on my Scott 910. I was freaked out that I'd wreck them, so I ordered a set of Stans Flows built up. While I was waiting, I kept riding the Syncros wheels (I'm hard on equipment and ride rocky technical stuff) waiting for them to break. Nope. Finally got the Stans and am using them now, but they were almost a waste of money, because the original wheels were built so good. I'm content to have a back-up set. I can also run wider tires on the Stans since they're wider.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

evasive said:


> It's never going to be as cheap as you can find pre-built wheels. But they'll last you longer, and you don't have to spend a fortune, either. Doesn't hurt to email Mike for a quote. If you buy a stock wheelset, you definitely plan to take it to a bike shop and have true and tension checked out.


I actually just found out that my coworker used to race and would build all of his sets, so he's willing to help me.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's a good friend to have! Don't have to learn via internet and buy everything to build all at once. Get hubs that fit and rims you need. Once you get those you can get proper measurments to buy proper spoke lengths and start building your wheels.

I'm waiting for my hubs to start building new wheels for my fat bike. This one outta be interesting lol.

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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Wait... 
I weigh about 260 buck naked so kitted up, I weigh more. My 29er is a 2009 full suspension Stumpjumper. It has Velocity Blunts, 35mm wide laced to Hope hubs with DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples. 
My fat bike is full rigid and right now, in this weather, has 29" Velocity Duallys (45mm) also laced to Hope hubs with DT Swiss Comps. 
Clydes can absolutely ride 29" wheels if they are built properly.

It doesn't surprise me a bit that you taco'd a wheel on a brand new store bought bike.


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## fumanju (Apr 19, 2011)

I'm probably in the area of 250 kitted up. After discussing with my wheel builder earlier this year, I ended up going carbon for the additional stiffness for my 29er build, but my builder *highly* recommended Easton ARC 30's if I went aluminum. Claimed they were about the most durable aluminum rim out right now.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

NYrr496 said:


> Wait...
> I weigh about 260 buck naked so kitted up, I weigh more. My 29er is a 2009 full suspension Stumpjumper. It has Velocity Blunts, 35mm wide laced to Hope hubs with DT Swiss Comp spokes and brass nipples.
> My fat bike is full rigid and right now, in this weather, has 29" Velocity Duallys (45mm) also laced to Hope hubs with DT Swiss Comps.
> Clydes can absolutely ride 29" wheels if they are built properly.
> ...


Ya I guess that's what I get for expecting more out of stock parts, but like many I'm limited by the contents of my wallet


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

fumanju said:


> I'm probably in the area of 250 kitted up. After discussing with my wheel builder earlier this year, I ended up going carbon for the additional stiffness for my 29er build, but my builder *highly* recommended Easton ARC 30's if I went aluminum. Claimed they were about the most durable aluminum rim out right now.


Thanks, I'll look into those as well!


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

spaztwelve said:


> Wheels make a difference. I'm bigger than you and I was riding 28 spoke Syncros wheels (DT Swiss hubs) on my Scott 910. I was freaked out that I'd wreck them, so I ordered a set of Stans Flows built up. While I was waiting, I kept riding the Syncros wheels (I'm hard on equipment and ride rocky technical stuff) waiting for them to break. Nope. Finally got the Stans and am using them now, but they were almost a waste of money, because the original wheels were built so good. I'm content to have a back-up set. I can also run wider tires on the Stans since they're wider.


How do you like the Stans?


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

i'm 250 lbs, and I have a set of Stan's Flows EX + DT Swiss 350 (w/54 POE upgrade), DT Swiss Champion spokes, and DT brass nipps for $650. 

those are the exact wheels recommended to me early last year when I came on here asking the exact same question.

The Stan's are outstanding wheels, and the DT Swiss 350 hub is pretty much bombproof.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

sgtrobo said:


> i'm 250 lbs, and I have a set of Stan's Flows EX + DT Swiss 350 (w/54 POE upgrade), DT Swiss Champion spokes, and DT brass nipps for $650.
> 
> those are the exact wheels recommended to me early last year when I came on here asking the exact same question.
> 
> The Stan's are outstanding wheels, and the DT Swiss 350 hub is pretty much bombproof.


Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if I'm ready to put $650 wheels on my entry level bike that only cost a couple hundred more than that haha. I'm probably just going to replace the front wheel for now and take it easy riding until I can upgrade to a better bike down the line.


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## OttaCee (Jul 24, 2013)

Easton Haven - Universally loved by the Clydes


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

Another +1 for Bontrager Dusters. I've got a set that MikeSee built for me that are still running strong. That said, I'm 270 and ride pretty hard, but I'm not going after big air on that wheel set...


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## stoplight (Mar 8, 2009)

2 fitty all loaded up..yeti sb95. Stock wheels were race face turbine 21 inch internal diameter. I slapped maxxis 2.4 ardent on the front and 2.25 on the rear and rode that set up in Mammoth. Did okay but always felt the front was wishy washy and not really under me and in the game, make sense? later I bought a pair of custom made Sun Ringle mtx33's, 26 inch internal diameter, Hope pro hubs, clyde proof they are. Amazing difference those wheels made in Mammoth, solid, completely under me no matter what terrain I was riding and front end dug in and was in control !!!!


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I am personally not a huge fan of the Dusters. They are 28h, and most I see out there are using straight 15g spokes. Took me three weeks to make mince meat out of a set a couple years ago. 

I just had to rebuild the rear wheel on my Trek Stache 9, which has a 32h Sun Mulefut 50SL rim, but they insisted on using no name 15g straight gauge spokes once again. 

If you're going to go with a 28h rim, I would not recommend a stock set of Dusters that has 15g spokes. That is asking for trouble. 

If your buddy builds you a set, I would insist on 14/15/14 butted spokes from a quality company like DT Swiss, Wheelsmith, or Sapim, and ALWAYS brass nipples. 32h rims would be better. Stans Flow EX or WTB i23/i25/i27 Frequency rims would be a solid choice for a rim. Front hub is not that important, and you can save some money there. The rear hub is where this is going to hurt. If you live where you're going to regularly climb some of those short, but super steep 'grunt' climbs, you're going to be toasting freehubs on cheaper rear hubs. 

If you could find a used, but nice DT Swiss 350 or 240s rear hub (or bite the bullet and get a new one), that will be a good solution for you. 

I would recommend bypassing the RS Gold 30 in favor of a Recon so you get metal bushings instead of plastic. 

If the brakes are working, I would possibly go to 203mm rotors front and rear. If your brakes start acting up, then get some Shimano brakes, and resume loving life. Even lower priced Shimano hydros are pretty good. Some Tektro hydros work well, so if yours are working, ride 'em until they aren't and worry about them at that time. I like the balance of having a 180mm rotor on the back, but I keep toasting them. I've had good luck with 203mm out back even though I have to modulate more carefully to keep from locking up the rear wheel. The moderately priced Shimano RT66 is a good combination of price/performance. Honestly not a fan of the new, more expensive sandwiched rotors compared to the all steel RT66. 

JMHO. Good luck.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

jeffj said:


> I am personally not a huge fan of the Dusters. They are 28h, and most I see out there are using straight 15g spokes. Took me three weeks to make mince meat out of a set a couple years ago.
> 
> I just had to rebuild the rear wheel on my Trek Stache 9, which has a 32h Sun Mulefut 50SL rim, but they insisted on using no name 15g straight gauge spokes once again.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks for all the great info!


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

targnik said:


> 245lbs here (all kitted up)... I love hucking on my 29er ....I used to taco the rear wheel every 4 or so rides. Cheap, crappy 19 IW rims.


This really is the answer. The budget 19mm IW rims are basically marginally adequate for cyclocross on clydes more towards my end of the spectrum (I'm creeping under 225lb of late)- add in crappy machine build that isn't truly up to tension and you can turn any day of the week into Taco Tuesday.

I too am a fan of the Recon/Sektor chassis - not the lightest, and the damper is obviously not latest/greatest, but it's a structurally adequate fork (which most anything short of a high end 34mm stanchion unit tends not to be).

If you don't need incredibly light weight, building a set of MTX33's, WTB ST i25's, or WTB Asym i29's on Formula/Novatech/XT hubs can be done really affordably, and they'll run for quite a while. It will eventually be a thing where blowing up the freehub is a possibility, but even running hubs renown for grenading, the net cost to me to run even those is still lower than moving to a high end hub.

The only reason I'm suggesting saving some money is that you'll want better tires (more grip, better survivability), and to look over the brakes to be sure they're up to the task as well (big rotors are your friend when exchanging altitude for fun)


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## KTMNealio (Jun 17, 2016)

Ditch the skinny and go fat...


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## Bkdelux (Jun 28, 2011)

Another vote for Stans ZTR Flow EX - I am 250LBS all suited up and run Flow EX rims with Hope Pro 2 EVO straight pull hubs and they are bullet proof for me. 

Running them on an Alloy Niner RIP9 and have not taco'd a rim, broke a spoke or have they gone out of true in 2 years. 

I am not easy on the bike either (don't bother picking a line for the sake of a bounce or two) and this wheelset has been excellent!!


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

I built a set of MTX33's with 36 spokes that held up under my ass when I started at 320 and ended at 260.

No sucks, but I smash baby-head rocks and logs with the grace of a drunk hippo.

It's do-able. But just hold your nose at the weight, buy 'downhill' spec, get DT Swiss hubs and you'll be fine.


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## abelfonseca (Dec 26, 2011)

Did you land that jump or did you crash? How high was it? By your injury Im assuming you crashed. Crash it the right way and you will taco any wheel. Land right and even noodle wheels will hold up to clydes.


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## finnlander (May 3, 2005)

I'm a lightweight at 230 without gear and still managed to destroy my factory WTB wheels. The hubs were fine so I just got them rebuilt with stronger rims. The mechanic recommended Sun rims so I chose some Helix 27's ($70/rim) and have been abusing them for two summers now. They are still perfectly true, even after a trip to the bike park hitting a lot of jumps. Sun makes some strong rims.

So, if you want to save a few bucks and your hubs are fine just get them rebuilt with a decent rim and spokes. They will be worlds better than the stock wheels and the cheaper wheelsets available.


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## DMOS (May 31, 2008)

My experience is that spokes matter. That's both in the number and type. Based on that picture from the OP, he could reuse the hubs and build them up into something stronger because they appear to be 32 hole. For gentlemen of our type, that's a minimum unless you get something exotic. I did ride a set of Mavic Crossmax ST for years with 28 spokes with only a few dents to show for it, but that came at the expense of pricey spoke replacements whenever a stick (or my derailleur) got caught in the rear. In the OP's case a stout rim (Stans Flow EX, DT EX471, Easton ARC etc) with butted spokes laced to his existing hubs should pass the test until he blows up the hub internals or chews a free hub. Hopefully by then he'll be on to a bigger better bike or ready to invest in a set of clyde worthy hubs.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

jeffj said:


> I am personally not a huge fan of the Dusters. They are 28h, and most I see out there are using straight 15g spokes.


Just to clarify, Bontrager makes/sells two rims in this width -- the Rhythm and the Duster. Rhythm are 28h and typically come on stock Trek bikes. Duster can be 28h, but much more often are 32h and are sold aftermarket.

Same rim, different name depending on intent.

I agree that they aren't the most durable rims by modern standards, and unless you have a very compelling reason to use them (like Gigantic in this thread -- who needed massive offset for a fat Lefty IIRC) there are better options for rims.

No reason for the OP to replace the hub if he doesn't need to -- just relace it with a quality rim, quality butted spokes, and quality nips.

I'm all for friends helping friends, especially when one is learning and saving $ at the same time. I'll throw out that the heavier a person is the more important balanced spoke tension is -- as the OP learned when he tacoed his new wheel. Point simply being it's only a good deal if you're still happy with it in a year, or more. Doing it right is cheaper than doing it twice, and all that. If your buddy has a tensiometer and knows how to use it (ask him to show you) then you're golden. If he doesn't have one, doesn't know what they're for, or says he doesn't need one, you're rolling the dice.

Good luck,

MC


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## LemonDrops (Oct 11, 2016)

msuj said:


> Ok I'll just stick to buying wheels for now.
> 
> They actually upgraded the forks to the RockShox 30 on the 2017 model Marlin 7.


So your bike has a Rock Shox XC30? Have you put different coils in it for your weight?








looks like you need black/x-firm or maybe even pink/xxx-firm springs in your fork for 280lbs (chart only goes up to 200-220)? Read this thread 
http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/rockshox-default-coil-spring-xc30-863668.html

But even so, XC30 is a fairly low-end cross country fork. At your weight, you undoubtedly bottomed them right out. Suntour has an upgrade program and they are now accepting forks from other manufacturers.

BTW, how bad was your AC seperation? I did mine 4th degree


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## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

msuj said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I bought a new 2017 Trek Marlin 7 and on my 5th ride I tacoed the front wheel after landing a jump and ended up separating my AC Joint. I am almost 2 months out of surgery and I am trying to get my bike ready for my return, so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a new wheel that can handle my weight (250 lbs) and doesn't cost a fortune. I am definitely afraid of falling again so I want to make sure my wheel can support me and give me the peace of mind when I am ripping through the rocky trails here in AZ. I went to the local Trek store and they recommended the Bonti Duster which is about $180 and I will need a new hub for $20. Does anyone know anything about this wheel? I am open to any suggestions as safety and durability is my biggest concern. I also attached the pictures of my wheel after my buddy tried to bend it back to make it easier to get the bike back to the car (it was much worse)
> 
> ...


I've got a cheap wheelset for you. I just ordered a set of no name brand Croft Race DH rims from Randombikparts.com They're 32mm wide, 32 spokes with Novatec hubs with adapters to mount to any fork. They're kinda heavy but seem like a pretty beefy wheel. I ordered a set for $218 shipped! I figured, they'd be a great set of training wheels while I build my first custom wheelset over the winter. I just permanently dented my OEM Stans Rapid rims and needed something cheap and strong in the meantime. Here's a link:

https://www.randombikeparts.com/pro...-wheelset-15-20-qr-12x135-qr-shimano-sram-new

If you chat with them, they may give you an additional 10% off. I'll post back and let you know how it goes with my set.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

I emailed trek on my mustang pro wheels, 28h straight pull. 275 lb rider limit. Not sure why you all are so 32 spoke or 36 spoke happy. Was looking at some specs on other wheels, basically all that changed was the weight of the rim went up and the capacity did as well. A trail wheel set was 100g lighter than an enduro, both 28h. Trail wheel 264 lb cap, enduro 286 lb cap and both 25mm inner width.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

solarplex said:


> I emailed trek on my mustang pro wheels, 28h straight pull. 275 lb rider limit. Not sure why you all are so 32 spoke or 36 spoke happy. Was looking at some specs on other wheels, basically all that changed was the weight of the rim went up and the capacity did as well. A trail wheel set was 100g lighter than an enduro, both 28h. Trail wheel 264 lb cap, enduro 286 lb cap and both 25mm inner width.


Did you ask them to provide reason, rhyme, or rationale on those numbers?

I'd bet dollars to donuts that they pulled the #'s out of thin air, or perhaps somewhere else where the sun doesn't shine.

I'm ~200# geared up with a heavy pack and a pocket fulla quarters, and I'd not ride a 28h straight pull wheel if you paid me to.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't care what trek "says" I've hit their demos. I'm 275 and no way in hell I'd ride 28h wheels. I like their bikes, but their stock issue wheels are built for light weight riders. I don't do half the stuff these guys try to do on bottom of the barrel entry bikes (then complain when they taco them) and I'd destroy the " good" bontrager wheels in no time.

Still beating the crap outta my spank cozy trail 295s and never had to touch them since I built them now 2 seasons ago.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

LemonDrops said:


> So your bike has a Rock Shox XC30? Have you put different coils in it for your weight?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I haven't changed anything on the bike since buying it from the shop so everything was stock.

Mine was a grade 5 separation and it's getting better, but I was told not to ride until about February ?.


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## tatuowen (Jun 27, 2013)

I am 265lbs, ride and race a Niner hardtail single speed sometimes as rigid and sometimes with front squish. My wheels are 32hole Flow EX rims with dbl butted spokes. Tires are Hans Dampfs 2.35". I have yet to have any issues with these wheels, and though I have been working on riding more fluid I still bash into stuff on the trail. Just finished a 5 race series in Oct which culminated in a 9mile SuperD which was crazy rock and root strewn and full of washboard gnar as well as some drops. 

Being a bigger rider who beats the crap out of my wheels I feel better when riding 32spokes. That said I have a set of Reynolds 29AM on my other Rigid SS, they are 28hole with straight-pull spokes and these have held up well but these are used more for singletrack, gravel-grinding, rails/trails, etc. Though I prefer 32 for peace of mind 28 would probably hold up fine; I think it is important to wheel longevity to have the wheels(spoke) properly and uniformly tensioned and trued. Off the shelf wheelsets are most often machine built with maybe a tweeking done by hand at the end, and as such I think can benefit from the attention of a good wheelbuilder or LBS. Just my 2 cents.


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## blacksheep5150 (Oct 22, 2014)

When I started riding I was 309 , bought a new Scott bike . On my local single track carving some turns I thought the whole back of bike was flexing ( 29er ) . One night I hit a rock and went over bars bending front wheels . Had a set of Chris king flow ex built and couldn't believe the flex was gone ( now realizing wheel flex ) flow ex are a great wheel for heavy riders 32 h . I built a new bike and wanted carbon wheels , so to get the most durable and stiffest I could ,I went with 32h and on the spokes , I put a 14 gauge straight spoke on the drive side , then went with double butted on non drive side and on the front wheel . I'm about 260 now , but have punished wheels thru rocks and everything else with no issues so far ..as a Clyde does saving a few grams of weight on a set of wheels really matter , when we all could probably drop 20 pounds ?


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

solarplex said:


> I emailed trek on my mustang pro wheels, 28h straight pull. 275 lb rider limit. Not sure why you all are so 32 spoke or 36 spoke happy. Was looking at some specs on other wheels, basically all that changed was the weight of the rim went up and the capacity did as well. A trail wheel set was 100g lighter than an enduro, both 28h. Trail wheel 264 lb cap, enduro 286 lb cap and both 25mm inner width.


I remember several machine built OEM wheels with 28-ish spokes that were said to be 'fine' for my weight.

Several broken hubs, a taco'd rim, and one time I ripped five spokes right out by standing and cranking on the pedals on a 25 degree grade.

I bought a set of hand-built 36-spoke wheels from mikesee and never had to do anything else than the occasional tightening or normal service.

So, I'll never bother with those type of wheels again. Feel free to try though...


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

About how much should I expect to spend on custom hand built wheels? I gotta devise a compelling argument to convince my wife that it would be better to get them hand made!


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

msuj said:


> About how much should I expect to spend on custom hand built wheels? I gotta devise a compelling argument to convince my wife that it would be better to get them hand made!


well, the wheelset I had built was pretty much a "clyde-specific" higher end wheelset.

Stan's Flows EX 29er, 32-hole
DT Swiss Champion brass nips and spokes
DT Swiss 350 w/54t ratchet upgrade

total was about $800 new, and i've had them for 2 years, beat them to death, still perfectly true

There's actually a decent website that gives a decent price estimate:
CUSTOM WHEEL BUILDING PROGRAM you pick it we build it PROWHEELBUILDER

Not endorsing their wheels, just that it helps give you an idea of prices and weights for wheelsets


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

sgtrobo said:


> well, the wheelset I had built was pretty much a "clyde-specific" higher end wheelset.
> 
> Stan's Flows EX 29er, 32-hole
> DT Swiss Champion brass nips and spokes
> ...


Thanks I appreciate it! I just don't know if it would make sense to buy wheels that cost the same amount as the bike haha.


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

When you weigh as much as us, unfortunately the wheels are a weak point.

Front hubs are less of an issue, but I've found that a strong clyde can wreak havoc on the rear hubs and the engagement. I've broken a bunch of them.

DT Swiss is great for clydes. They're the best bang-for-buck for an incredibly strong hub around. You don't need the ratchet upgrade, if you want to save a few bucks - I have a set of 350's that I've been touring on with a good 30 pounds of extra gear up some incredibly steep grades and they're fine.


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## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

msuj said:


> Thanks I appreciate it! I just don't know if it would make sense to buy wheels that cost the same amount as the bike haha.


I hear you but I think at our weight its actually a pretty idea. I got tired of truing wheel after wheel and/or limping home loosing ride time so I broke down and had a set made... nothing fancy, it was a few years ago I paid $700 but my problems ended. In my case It wasn't higher end parts I think it was just a better job building tensioning them than mass production wheels. They were still rolling perfect when I sold the bike

If you still looking I picked up some new old stock Novatec Diablo's 29er wheels at the beginning of the season on Ebay for $299 shipped.... still a couple pairs listed.


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## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

I just got those Croft 32mm wheels for $214 shipped. They look great, feel really solid, engagement is pretty good, and the freewheel sounds quality. Not too loud, 4 pawls. They don't feel flexy at all in hard turns. They have a nice rounded profile too. And it's pretty easy to mount tires on them. I rode them hard this morning, jumping off stuff and blowing through rock gardens and they didn't flex a bit. Even had a hard pedal strike that sent me crashing on a rocky fast section (leaves hid a rock) and no issues at all. 

The downside: weight. I can feel the difference from the light weight set of OEM Stans Rapids that came on my bike but the benefits far outweigh the 1lb penalty for durability. The Stans were flexy, flat spotted, and came out of true on the 1st couple rides. These feel solid, lower air pressure, grip better but just requires a tad bit more effort to push but I'm not noticing any slowness. Now my hardtail weighs 27.25lbs. 

For the price, I'd highly recommend them so far. I'd also recommend the Novatec Diablos for $300. They are lighter that these and strong. Both sets of wheels have sealed cartridge bearing Novatec convertible hubs that work with almost everything. Spending $700 on a wheelset for a bike that's only worth that much just doesn't make sense at this point. When you drop 50lbs, treat yourself to a set of CK or DT Swiss custom builds.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I recently built a set of wheels for a guy with Velocity Blunt SS rims, Bike Hub Store hubs and Sapim Race spokes. I think they came to 404 dollars. I'd ride those wheels.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

shwndh said:


> I just got those Croft 32mm wheels for $214 shipped. They look great, feel really solid, engagement is pretty good, and the freewheel sounds quality. Not too loud, 4 pawls. They don't feel flexy at all in hard turns. They have a nice rounded profile too. And it's pretty easy to mount tires on them. I rode them hard this morning, jumping off stuff and blowing through rock gardens and they didn't flex a bit. Even had a hard pedal strike that sent me crashing on a rocky fast section (leaves hid a rock) and no issues at all.
> 
> The downside: weight. I can feel the difference from the light weight set of OEM Stans Rapids that came on my bike but the benefits far outweigh the 1lb penalty for durability. The Stans were flexy, flat spotted, and came out of true on the 1st couple rides. These feel solid, lower air pressure, grip better but just requires a tad bit more effort to push but I'm not noticing any slowness. Now my hardtail weighs 27.25lbs.
> 
> For the price, I'd highly recommend them so far. I'd also recommend the Novatec Diablos for $300. They are lighter that these and strong. Both sets of wheels have sealed cartridge bearing Novatec convertible hubs that work with almost everything. Spending $700 on a wheelset for a bike that's only worth that much just doesn't make sense at this point. When you drop 50lbs, treat yourself to a set of CK or DT Swiss custom builds.


Thanks for the info! I think I'm gonna check em out. At least until I get a better bike!


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## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

msuj said:


> Thanks for the info! I think I'm gonna check em out. At least until I get a better bike!


Your bike is a fine upgrading platform. Guys our size ALWAYS have to upgrade wheels soon after purchase. I'm on my 5th mtb in 16 years and I've always had to get rid of the stock wheels no matter how much the bike costs. Fortunately, I've been able to get by with cheaper priced wheelsets like Ryno Lites in the beginning, Azonic Outlaws on closeout and some house brand stuff that I took a chance on and it worked out. For a clyde, forks and wheels are always going to be an issue. Forks have gotten a lot better but wheels still need to be swapped out to something stronger. At least 32 spokes, wide, and strong.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

schnee said:


> I remember several machine built OEM wheels with 28-ish spokes that were said to be 'fine' for my weight.
> 
> Several broken hubs, a taco'd rim, and one time I ripped five spokes right out by standing and cranking on the pedals on a 25 degree grade.
> 
> ...


Well ****.... what kind of riding do you do? Im in the land of flat xc riding.

I build some arc 30s with 350 hubs and 32spoke wheels on pro wheel and they are about $900 canadian plus shipping and duty and same weight as my mustangs. I get the width and the strong rear ratchet. Almost a steal seeing i just put a 350 on my fatbike and it was $380 cnd for the hub and will be $120 for spokes and install.

Maybe this is the way to go. I want to build a set i can keep for my next bike and sell it with the stockers.


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## GNU_BLIND (Aug 5, 2015)

msuj said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I bought a new 2017 Trek Marlin 7 and on my 5th ride I tacoed the front wheel after landing a jump and ended up separating my AC Joint. I am almost 2 months out of surgery and I am trying to get my bike ready for my return, so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on a new wheel that can handle my weight (250 lbs) and doesn't cost a fortune. I am definitely afraid of falling again so I want to make sure my wheel can support me and give me the peace of mind when I am ripping through the rocky trails here in AZ. I went to the local Trek store and they recommended the Bonti Duster which is about $180 and I will need a new hub for $20. Does anyone know anything about this wheel? I am open to any suggestions as safety and durability is my biggest concern. I also attached the pictures of my wheel after my buddy tried to bend it back to make it easier to get the bike back to the car (it was much worse)
> 
> ...


Sun Rhyno Lite 40H 29er MTB Commuter Wheelset 6 BOLT DISC [740429] - $139.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike I bought these for a friend, he's about 300lbs and they seem to be holding up well.


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## msuj (Sep 30, 2016)

GNU_BLIND said:


> Sun Rhyno Lite 40H 29er MTB Commuter Wheelset 6 BOLT DISC [740429] - $139.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike I bought these for a friend, he's about 300lbs and they seem to be holding up well.


Thanks for the referral. I think I might check out the Novatec Diablos once I can convince my wife I need to fix my bike BEFORE I am healed from surgery haha.


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

I've been on 32h flow ex rims with DT 350's for 2 years now...they have been absolutely flawless. 265 lbs on a hardtail 29er. Universal Cycles in Portland, Ore  does one helluva a job building wheels. If anybody considers them , just call them and talk about what you need done , they will hook it up.


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## Steve Javorsky (Jul 22, 2014)

Build them up...

Stan's No Tubes ZTR Flow MK3 Rim 29" Black 32H

190.00 pair

https://www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-350-142x12mm-6-bolt/dp/B005MK0O18/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478982328&sr=8-2&keywords=dt+swiss+350

$190

https://www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-350-Front-6-bolt/dp/B0063R1IFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478982328&sr=8-1&keywords=dt+swiss+350

$65

BikeHubStore.com

Get the Sapim Race, make sure to get the correct size / get brass nipples.

Add $100 for spokes and nipples and you have a great wheel set....

I have 2 full sets of Stan Flow EX / DT Swiss 350's... Never once had an issue and I am 260 plus with gear. 2 Years no issues and I am not easy on my stuff... seen many drops / jumps.

So for under $600 you get RIMS / HUBS / SPOKES / NIPPLES... Move everything else over from the old ones.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

johnD said:


> I've been on 32h flow ex rims with DT 350's for 2 years now...they have been absolutely flawless. 265 lbs on a hardtail 29er.


Yup. Same wheelset build, 250# on a Stumpy FSR. (One of the) Best all-around Clyde wheelset going.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

6'3 275lbs here. Last year I got a set of wtb i25 rims laced to dt 350 hubs. I used straight gauge spokes. As best explained to me, yes butted spokes have a longer fatique life but straight gauge build a stronger stiffer wheel. Where I ride a lot of short steep hills into sharp turns so lots of gforces and the stifness is needed. I am now probably going to build a B+ wheelset for this same bike using wtb asym I35s. Another thought for you would be to use the Asym i29 rims in the 29" size. Seems that wider is stiffer and stronger for wheels for us big guys. The Asym spoke patterns allows for more even tensioning of the wheel. And to those who say you shouldn't be jumping at your size, well honestly, when I look at the crazy **** that I see 150 lbs guys do and their wheels hold up. I'm talking about like hitting big ass jumps 20 ft in the air. With proper built wheels, us clydes shouldn't have problems hitting small jumps and drops that are out on trails, but I wouldn't be trying for any big air contests anytime soon!


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

cpfitness said:


> 6'3 275lbs here. Last year I got a set of wtb i25 rims laced to dt 350 hubs. I used straight gauge spokes. As best explained to me, yes butted spokes have a longer fatique life but straight gauge build a stronger stiffer wheel. Where I ride a lot of short steep hills into sharp turns so lots of gforces and the stifness is needed. I am now probably going to build a B+ wheelset for this same bike using wtb asym I35s. Another thought for you would be to use the Asym i29 rims in the 29" size. Seems that wider is stiffer and stronger for wheels for us big guys. The Asym spoke patterns allows for more even tensioning of the wheel. And to those who say you shouldn't be jumping at your size, well honestly, when I look at the crazy **** that I see 150 lbs guys do and their wheels hold up. I'm talking about like hitting big ass jumps 20 ft in the air. With proper built wheels, us clydes shouldn't have problems hitting small jumps and drops that are out on trails, but I wouldn't be trying for any big air contests anytime soon!


Yup ^^

When us Clydes try and go big, it's the Earth that pays the price.

I had an off one day (Ground Hog day?), was carrying too much momentum into a man made wooden hump in the middle of the trail (several small diameter trees made into a triangular obstacle).

I ended up coming off the other side of it.

My two riding buddies rolled up as I was dusting myself off... one exclaimed, 'Bloody hell! Look at what you've done to that tree!!'

I'd landed on an old tree stump, fortunately for me... it was half rotten. My shoulder had obliterated it!!

We're a little less graceful in the air, but - Clyde's can fly (and land safely) with a good set of hoops & a sturdy frame.

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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Welp, after some big in my head debates arc 27 or 30s or stans arch or flows.

Ive decided they all are either heavy or weight rating is right on edge of what im comfortable with.

Decided some 26mm internal asymmetrical carbons. Rated at 160kg limit! With dt 240 hubs. Sapim race spokes. Brass nips. 

Was really on the fence about the 29mm internals.... but im worried they might make too square of a tire. 26mm will be way wider than my 19mm now. 

Going to be stronger, 100-150g lighter, stiffer, and have 4 more spokes than my stock wheels, with the bomb proof dt hub that i need. (Stock are bontrager mustang 28 spokes, crappy 3 pawl hubs that i destroy monthly)


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

If you have the budget, then the stiffness of carbon on a good build is going to be hard to beat. I'd still run J-Bent spokes for sure, but that sounds like an incredibly solid build.
Something to maybe consider would be going wider out front - an i29 front and i26 rear, as the more squared up front can allow you to run a wider tire and be in good shape there.

FWIW, I run a WTB Asym i29 out front with a DHR2 2.4WT, and WTB ST i25 out back with the MinionSS 2.3, for that exact reason. Heavy rims, but they do work.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

tehllama said:


> If you have the budget, then the stiffness of carbon on a good build is going to be hard to beat. I'd still run J-Bent spokes for sure, but that sounds like an incredibly solid build.
> Something to maybe consider would be going wider out front - an i29 front and i26 rear, as the more squared up front can allow you to run a wider tire and be in good shape there.
> 
> FWIW, I run a WTB Asym i29 out front with a DHR2 2.4WT, and WTB ST i25 out back with the MinionSS 2.3, for that exact reason. Heavy rims, but they do work.


Now im questioning myself again. Do i get the 375g i25 that are good for 265lbs or the 430g i26 that are good for 352lbs?

Im 245lbs and only ride xc, no big drops or jumps... the 100g lighter rolling would be nicer climbing.

Edit:

Ah what am i saying. Whats 100g for alot more capcity!

Just did up the numbers 1650g wheels good for 350lbs? F yah.

1550g would be nice but... 260lb capacity... who knows how they test that.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Do NOT trust the recommended weight ranges you're quoting.

I'm 50# lighter than you and I would never, ever trust *any* 375g rim for off-road use. Probably wouldn't trust a 430g rim for that matter.

Weight isn't everything. 100g here or there just isn't that important. I get the desire to want the lightest possible wheels. The only time you're truly going to notice it is when they fail. And at those weights, they will.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

mikesee said:


> Do NOT trust the recommended weight ranges you're quoting.
> 
> I'm 50# lighter than you and I would never, ever trust *any* 375g rim for off-road use. Probably wouldn't trust a 430g rim for that matter.
> 
> Weight isn't everything. 100g here or there just isn't that important. I get the desire to want the lightest possible wheels. The only time you're truly going to notice it is when they fail. And at those weights, they will.


This is the thing......i ran the stock alex rims on a rocky mountain trailhead 29er a $1200 cnd bike for 2 years no issues with the rims. I was close to 300lbs when i got it. I changed the no name 1.8mm rear spokes to 2mm as they were breaking the heads off the Js from apparently torque. But after that... not even any wobbles.

Im far faster now, lighter.... still riding same terrain. Its xc.... the tires stay on the dirt.

If i can not destroy a $200 wheel set... how am i going to a $1100 one?


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

solarplex said:


> If i can not destroy a $200 wheel set... how am i going to a $1100 one?


more $$$ doesn't necessarily mean stronger, it means lighter.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh ya, the lighter they are the easier they bend. In this sport for some stupid ass reason they charge insane amounts to save weight because people want lighter. Cost the same or less to make but they charge you more.

Don't go feather weight wheels when your that heavy, those things are designed around riders 180lbs or less. As said, more money doesn't mean crap. But paying money for lighter heavy duty CF rims would be more worth it and stand up better than paper weight aluminum rims.

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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

sgtrobo said:


> more $$$ doesn't necessarily mean stronger, it means lighter.


Im sure single wall cheap alum is not as strong as double wall carbon enduro rated 160kg wheels. But whatever....


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## bingemtbr (Apr 1, 2004)

I am not sure why cost is a factor at all. Yeah, I get it, you've only go so much to spend. BUT you just had surgery! Doesn't that mean you've got a license/duty to buy the correct gear no matter the cost? 

My recommendation: Envy's laced to Chris Kings with thru axles. 

Disclaimer: I currently weigh 256lbs. July 22 2015 I crashed while mtb'ing and broke 6 ribs. It took 4 mo's to recover and a $2500 ER bill. After 4 months, I learned I had also destroyed BOTH shoulders in the crash. Jan 2016 I had surgery on my right shoulder, followed quickly by my left shoulder. Total bill for the surgeries (from the bilatteral MRI's to physical therapy) was just under $126,000. Yes, we have insurance and ONLY had to pay $10,000 out of pocket. But the thought of buying a $1000 wheel that could've meant NOT being injured, that seems like a no brainer.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

^^ For truth. ^^


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## blacksheep5150 (Oct 22, 2014)

Yep what bingemtbr said , finding balance between safety and budget can be challenging for a big man . Had a pair of syncro wheels on a scott once , carving turns made the back of bike feel like it was flexing , bent a front wheel and had to replace them . Built a set of chris king flow ex , couldnt believe the difference and no longer flexing sensation . On to carbon now ..i remember as a kid the saying ..if u have a $5 dollar head put a $5 dollar helmet on it .. 


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

bingemtbr said:


> I am not sure why cost is a factor at all. Yeah, I get it, you've only go so much to spend. BUT you just had surgery! Doesn't that mean you've got a license/duty to buy the correct gear no matter the cost?
> 
> My recommendation: Envy's laced to Chris Kings with thru axles.
> 
> Disclaimer: I currently weigh 256lbs. July 22 2015 I crashed while mtb'ing and broke 6 ribs. It took 4 mo's to recover and a $2500 ER bill. After 4 months, I learned I had also destroyed BOTH shoulders in the crash. Jan 2016 I had surgery on my right shoulder, followed quickly by my left shoulder. Total bill for the surgeries (from the bilatteral MRI's to physical therapy) was just under $126,000. Yes, we have insurance and ONLY had to pay $10,000 out of pocket. But the thought of buying a $1000 wheel that could've meant NOT being injured, that seems like a no brainer.


Couple of hundred on a few skills sessions would've been a better investment ;-P

Just saying 

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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

On topic... Eastern Heist wheels look pretty good.

Choose your preferred width & bombs your uncle!

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