# Rohloff tips



## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

A couple of tips , please post if you have any to share.

1st photo :
There are two grip models (as far as I know)
I have problems with grip with the Flatter one when it's extremely wet and muddy , I found that it help a lot by putting elastic bands , like brocoli elastics , one the shifter like the photo.
Slips a lot less

2nd photo :
For cable run reasons ,on my older Cannondale frame , I had to pass my shifting cables by the top tube.
One thing that worked well to avoid big cable bend is using "V-Brake noodles".
Important to put Heat shrink tubing on the end to avoid humidity contamination.
That setup holded on for 7 years with the same cables.


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

Nice tip on the cable routing.
I had my first chain derail in 600 miles of trail riding. The chain had come off the rear cog, reason being, a huge wad of vegetation was jamming things up back there, easily cleared, and I was on my way. First for everything I guess, but it did make me wish I didn't have to use a (Rohloff) tensioner, it would have cleared a bit easier. I ve ridden in tall grass enough to think I just got unlucky today, no big deal.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Just posted this somewhere else:
23 Ways to Run Rohloff Shifters with Road Drop Handlebars - CyclingAbout CyclingAbout


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Another tip I got a couple of years ago (Don't remember who) around here :

If you face very very cold temperature , dilute the oil with a part of Kerosen to liquify it a bit. Maybe 5ml for 25ml Rolloff oil.

I do that every winter, It works , I ran -30°C without hiccups.


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## hunter006 (Jan 20, 2012)

fokof said:


> Another tip I got a couple of years ago (Don't remember who) around here :
> 
> If you face very very cold temperature , dilute the oil with a part of Kerosen to liquify it a bit. Maybe 5ml for 25ml Rolloff oil.
> 
> I do that every winter, It works , I ran -30°C without hiccups.


You can, in theory, also use a bit of the cleaning oil to do the same thing. The kerosene thing pretty well known though - if it ain't broke, why fix it?



> That setup holded on for 7 years with the same cables.


7 years?!?!?!? I would have replaced them ages ago. If not for the corrosion, just for the fact that every 10k miles you should be replacing them anyway and that it makes for a nicer shifting experience. Shift cables are super cheap, I don't know why you'd be skimping on that.

Ok, tips and tricks... I'm currently at 23,206 mi on my Rohloff for reference, bought it in 2013.
1) Find the bloody knuckles guide to replacing the cog. It's very good. The cog is definitely the most annoying thing about the Rohloff. Everything else is pretty easy on the Rohloff.
2) I mention it in the bloody knuckles forum post, but clean the surface that the Rohloff cog tool mates to REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, *REALLY* WELL. If you don't you'll run a big risk of damaging the splines, which means sending it to Cycle Monkey to pull the cog off. They're great folks, but it was an enormous pain in the butt for me.
3) Cycle Monkey sells a different grip shift to the one that shipped with the Rohloff. It's easier to grip in the rain but still a bit of a problem. You can see the picture of the two side by side here [1] although one is heavily worn out (19,600 mi). I also wore gloves when using the shifter in the rain to get extra grip, as well as occasionally did the elastic band thing.
4) When you replace the grips on your bike consider taking the time to clean the handlebar contact point underneath the shifter. Super easy, takes about 2 minutes. When I swapped out my grip shift there was a lot of material deposited underneath; once I removed the material using a household cleaner it shifted much more easily. I'd go as far as saying that this is something you should do regularly if you have easily removed grips, say every 2-3 months.
5) If you live in a climate where it periodically but rarely drops below freezing temperature, when you know cold weather is coming pull the EX gear mech off, get as much moisture out as you can (store in a nice, dry, warm place overnight with everything unscrewed) and add a tiny bit of grease to form a nice seal that keeps the moisture out between the box that screws to the shift plate and the shift plate (aka the part you undo when you are changing a flat). When it drops below freezing sometimes the gear mech freezes if there's any moisture in there and I've found this helps prevent that. You'll know this is the case if it happens to you because you can warm it with your hands and it will start shifting easily again.

I think that's about it really. I've had pretty flawless performance so far.

[1]


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

When I setup that Cannonade with my Rohloff , I did the Noodle trick , I changed the cables when I changed MTB frame 7 or 8 years later. 

Why fix it when it works ? 


That Rohloff system is pretty much "close" , not a lot of humidity can get in those hoses.
They can last a very very long time , and since indexing is in the hub.......


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

fokof said:


> I have problems with grip with the Flatter one when it's extremely wet and muddy , I found that it help a lot by putting elastic bands , like brocoli elastics...
> Slips a lot less


Years ago I used the flatter grip in a 24hr event and rubbed my hand kind of raw through my glove. This may not be a great tip in that it might be single event oriented, but I got some of that tacky wrinkly medical tape that sticks to itself, like they might wrap around your arm after taking blood. I used it to build up the diameter of the grip in addition to making it slightly softer/squishier and tackier. I never did try it over such a long event, but it seemed nice on shorter subsequent rides.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Another tip:


If you have to change change the cables :
just cut a piece of housing to 200mm and use it as a guide to cut the cable at the right length 
(instead of buying their guide)

once your housing is at the right length for your frame , put the ferrule , pull the shifting cable to the max, insert the 200mm housing , cut at the end, do the same thing for the other cable > Voilà !


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## Everett37 (Oct 22, 2008)

I re-cabled recently after having some shifting problems (occasional skipping, then would not shift above gear 10). I discovered the gear pulley inside the external gear box had worn considerably between the two cable runs. Not surprising on the whole, but not something I had in mind as wearing out.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Wow , that's pretty worn up !

I never had to change mine ...... maybe you keep your cables too tight ?


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## Everett37 (Oct 22, 2008)

It could well be due to my lack of cabling proficiency. It also had 6+ years of use and ~15k miles on it. The cables being too tight sounds as good a reason as any.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Not directly but Speedhub oriented tip : tip for belt

I installed chainring guard on two Rohloff/belted bikes , as I often do more Technical stuff , log crossing etc...

On my MTB , because of the width of the axle , I put the guard as the inside Chainring. It needed lots of Tweaking to get the right chainline vs space for chainguard. Lots of trial and error with spacers.
Crank is an CDale Hollowgram















And on the Fatbike , I could put it as an Outside chainring. Lots easier.
Crank is RF Next









I think a chain guard is kind of a must for belts but I never rode these bikes without so I don't know if the belts are fragile.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

fokof said:


> ......
> I think a chain guard is kind of a must for belts but I never rode these bikes without so I don't know if the belts are fragile....


AFAIK a belt can be folded and transported, for example when touring as a spare. But it should not be bent too sharply and not sideways (to prevent damage to the outer fibers of the belt).


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Yes I know that , I have experience with belts.

I meant if it's fragile for logs/rocks crossing on the trails.
I can imagine that it is...... The chain guard I installed did their jobs so far !


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

A "finishing touch" tip :

In order to keep both cables together , I put some heat shrink @ the shifter when mounting the setup.

Looks better me thinks


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