# Can anyone recommend a bearing puller/press?



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

For full suspension frames? One of my bearings is gritty feeling so I was going to try pulling it, flushing it, and packing it... if that doesn't work I'll replace it. Either way, I imagine I would need a puller/press. Can anyone recommend a basic one?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

No specific suggestions other than looking at RWS offerings. However, you can often flush and repack a bearing without removing it if you can expose a face of it and remove a seal.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Lone Rager said:


> No specific suggestions other than looking at RWS offerings. However, you can often flush and repack a bearing without removing it if you can expose a face of it and remove a seal.


How do you ensure you get all the solvent (would wd40 work?) out? I wouldn't want lingering solvent just dissolving the new grease I put in.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

99% isopropyl alcohol evaporates nicely within a few minutes, even faster if you can blow it out with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air, wipe off as much of it as you can with a clean rag and the rest of it will dry up pretty quickly.

If you working outside or in a very well ventilated area, you can use a can of Speed Degreaser to blast out all the crud from the bearings. It evaporates faster than isopropyl alcohol but the fumes are pretty nasty.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

aerius said:


> 99% isopropyl alcohol evaporates nicely within a few minutes, even faster if you can blow it out with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air, wipe off as much of it as you can with a clean rag and the rest of it will dry up pretty quickly.
> 
> If you working outside or in a very well ventilated area, you can use a can of Speed Degreaser to blast out all the crud from the bearings. It evaporates faster than isopropyl alcohol but the fumes are pretty nasty.


The alcohol I have is 70% so I'll get some 99%. Just pour it over, let it soak, what?

I do have an air compressor I can use.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

Pour some on the bearing, scrub with old toothbrush, wipe off with rag, repeat till clean, blow dry with compressed air.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

aerius said:


> Pour some on the bearing, scrub with old toothbrush, wipe off with rag, repeat till clean, blow dry with compressed air.


Thanks! I tried to +rep you but it said I have done it too many times. You must have helped me in another thread too!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

when it comes to removing suspension bearings, I've used allthread, some nuts and washers, and sockets.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

You can wash bike parts in whatever gets the grease off then rinse with water/detergent...as long as you can get it dry quickly. For this, I put the part in the oven. Yes it does get it really dry really quickly. Yes it does piss my wife off! No I don't care :0)

As for taking the bearings out, I hate to sound harsh but if you can't figure out what you need you maybe shouldn't be doing it. The parts that the bearings are in are all made of aluminium and it would be really easy to mash them up if you're not careful. If you're not conversant with bearing removal and installation I'd look into getting help.


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## borabora (Feb 16, 2011)

You can of course always rig something together. Probably fine for one time but if you do it several times then the right tool might be a good idea. I asked the same question a while ago on the tool forum and here is what I have learned:

1. Blind bearings are a special case where you have access to only one side of the bearing. That might be the case for BB or hub but not normally for suspension bearings. You need a special puller and press.

2. Uneven surfaces are another special case where conventional pull/press may not work. This may be the case for some suspension linkages.

3. You may need one or two pull/press tools (glorified bolts) but also need a uniquely sized set of disks for each bearing size -- this can be expensive if you want to have the ability to pull/press just about any bearing. Not so bad if you are only dealing with one or two bearing sizes.

4. RWC (enduroforkseals.com) can sell you most of the tools including bearing packs for your bike but they sure aren't cheap. Otherwise amazon carries a variety that may or may not suit your needs.

5. Youtube and google search will yield some interesting jury-rigs -- some of them looking quite scary. I love the one where wax is pounded into the space behind a blind bearing, pushing it out...


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I cant think of any frames off the top of my head that require the bearings to be pressed out to service them. Disassemble the links and just clean out the lube the bearings. 

I blast them with WD40 to remove grit, dirt and anything else like that. The WD40 does a great job of helping to breakup the grease, but it doesnt seem to do a great job of blasting out the grease. For that, alcohol in a spray bottle. A few squirts blasts the grease out in globs. No need to soak, you're not trying to dissolve it, just blast it out of the bearing. The alcohol cleans up any WD40 solvent residue, then evaporates cleanly pretty quick. 

Since frame bearings arent really spinning or anything, they really just need grease in them, and thats it. Its not like a hub bearing that needs a light/efficient grease pack. Get out as much grease as you can and stuff them absolutely full of marine grease and you're good to go. 

Most bearings are intended for some kind of spinning, like in a hub, so they dont have nearly enough grease. Frame bearings need to be packed 100% full.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Mr Pig said:


> You can wash bike parts in whatever gets the grease off then rinse with water/detergent...as long as you can get it dry quickly. For this, I put the part in the oven. Yes it does get it really dry really quickly. Yes it does piss my wife off! No I don't care :0)
> 
> As for taking the bearings out, I hate to sound harsh but if you can't figure out what you need you maybe shouldn't be doing it. The parts that the bearings are in are all made of aluminium and it would be really easy to mash them up if you're not careful. If you're not conversant with bearing removal and installation I'd look into getting help.


I do my own bottom brackets, just that honestly out of the 4 full suspension bikes I've owned, I've never kept the same one long enough for a bearing to wear out.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

One Pivot said:


> I cant think of any frames off the top of my head that require the bearings to be pressed out to service them. Disassemble the links and just clean out the lube the bearings.
> 
> I blast them with WD40 to remove grit, dirt and anything else like that. The WD40 does a great job of helping to breakup the grease, but it doesnt seem to do a great job of blasting out the grease. For that, alcohol in a spray bottle. A few squirts blasts the grease out in globs. No need to soak, you're not trying to dissolve it, just blast it out of the bearing. The alcohol cleans up any WD40 solvent residue, then evaporates cleanly pretty quick.
> 
> ...


I have an Evil Following and the main linkage bearings are a bunch of little cartridge bearings (8 of them I think) I can spray them out just fine but the main bearing at the center pivot point, dunno how to do that one. Can't put the bike in the oven even if it would fit.

Concerning leaving the bearings in their linkage pieces and heating them in the love (to what like 200 degrees?) that isn't going to weaken the metal somehow would it?


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

IMO, never use any water based solvent/cleaners on bearings as they can corrode metal and residue can degrade lubricants. Use OMS, kerosene, Speedline spray degreaser, etc... Blow the bearing out with compressed air to remove the bulk of it. Any small amount remaining will evaporate and wouldn't adversely affect the grease or bearings anyway. WD40 works pretty well (as a cleaner, not a lube) as it's cheap and is mainly OMS with some light oil.


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## banditpowdercoat (Aug 13, 2015)

200* won't affect the metal at all. Takes around 700 to start messing with temper. You powdercoat at 400 so no effects at that temp either. 


Sent from my iPhone while my Heli plays with the gophers


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I got something like this with the smaller-size bearing pullers: http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Be...sr=8-6&keywords=blind+hole+bearing+puller+set

I also have a larger blind-puller and slide hammer for bigger stuff like BB. I figure the amazon set will pay off eventually and is something I should have gotten a few years ago.

Some bikes seem to intend that the user can punch out or change the bearings, with relative ease. Some seem to be designed more like a "throwaway" bike that after a few seasons, you just dump, because the bearings weren't designed so that they can be easily removable. The ones in my specialized enduro seatstay were freaking insane, stupid and required a blind puller.


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## Zatoichi (Oct 25, 2014)

*Bearing tools...*

If you are still looking for the bearing tools, try the following:

As stated earlier in the post, these aren't inexpensive...

RapidRaceProducts Bearing Press & Extraction Tool






Can be purchased online from Chain Reaction:
rapidracerproducts bearingÂ* | Chain Reaction Cycles

And from RWC:
RRP SUSPENSION BEARING TOOLS

Wheels Manufacturing also offers some good tools:
Presses & Extractors

Individual bearing extractors:
Wheels Manufacturing Bearing Extractors


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I have always thought sealed bearing maintenance was sort of an elementary skill set. No removal, just pop the seal(s), clean, inspect, lube and reinstall seal and components...go ride.

I guess this seems like a little too much thinkin' going on here.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> I have always thought sealed bearing maintenance was sort of an elementary skill set. No removal, just pop the seal(s), clean, inspect, lube and reinstall seal and components...go ride.
> 
> I guess this seems like a little too much thinkin' going on here.


I got them all cleaned and they feel good now, but I imagine it's only a matter of time before I have to replace the bearings and that will require a press/puller.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Alias530 said:


> I got them all cleaned and they feel good now, but I imagine it's only a matter of time before I have to replace the bearings and that will require a press/puller.


Perhaps you are correct. However, through regular servicing and on-going preventative maintenance, I have managed to keep my originally installed bearings well in excess of 12,000 miles.

Regular cleaning, inspection and lubrication addresses potential problems before they become problems to the point of needed replacement.


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## boomslang64 (Feb 18, 2015)

Cleared2land said:


> I have always thought sealed bearing maintenance was sort of an elementary skill set. No removal, just pop the seal(s), clean, inspect, lube and reinstall seal and components...go ride.
> 
> I guess this seems like a little too much thinkin' going on here.


Eventually the bearings actually wear, and no amount of cleaning will fix that.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

boomslang64 said:


> Eventually the bearings actually wear, and no amount of cleaning will fix that.


And, that will happen far quicker if you fail to properly maintain the bearing. Some folks prefer to replace than maintain. What ever floats your boat.


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## boomslang64 (Feb 18, 2015)

Cleared2land said:


> And, that will happen far quicker if you fail to properly maintain the bearing. Some folks prefer to replace than maintain. What ever floats your boat.


 I hear you. I clean and repack my bearings.

BTW, Does your name relate to ATC?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ ATC...As in Air Traffic Control? No, but it is aviation related.


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## boomslang64 (Feb 18, 2015)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^ ATC...As in Air Traffic Control? No, but it is aviation related.


Ah. I was curious as a controller myself.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

boomslang64 said:


> Ah. I was curious as a controller myself.


I'm involved with corporate toys...


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Found a neat little video. The bearings on your bike will be different but the same technique may be applicable.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Once you pull a cartridge bearing out, it goes in the trash. Trying to pull them out to service them and reinstalling is doing more harm than good. Exception being Chris King hub bearings when done with their tool that insures the bearing races don't get side loaded against each other. 

I've heard good things about the motion pro bearing puller, but haven't used it.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

customfab said:


> Once you pull a cartridge bearing out, it goes in the trash.


I must admit, I've never tried to 'service' them either. They're not murderously expensive so I bin them. If they are gritty enough to feel it there is probably some wear.

I do pop the seals off new ones and put more grease in though. It really helps to keep the elements out. I checked the bearings on my hardtail hubs not long ago and they were still perfect. Looked like they were fitted yesterday, last time they were looked at was a year ago.


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## jbaileyhayden (Jul 27, 2014)

Opinion on Park tools HBP-1 tool for pressing in suspension bearings? Seems like you can combine any pilot and bushing to fit a lot of bearing sizes.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

jbaileyhayden said:


> Opinion on Park tools HBP-1 tool for pressing in suspension bearings? Seems like you can combine any pilot and bushing to fit a lot of bearing sizes.


Yeah, that's a decent bearing press, but it can be more than most might need given all of the sizes. For $300, I'll piece together the sizes that I need.

If you're not too concerned about the expense, there are some 'works of art' out there in the same price range that I would prefer over the Park. Abby Tools and Wheels Manufacturing make some very nice presses.


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## jbaileyhayden (Jul 27, 2014)

Cleared2land said:


> Yeah, that's a decent bearing press, but it can be more than most might need given all of the sizes. For $300, I'll piece together the sizes that I need.
> 
> If you're not too concerned about the expense, there are some 'works of art' out there in the same price range that I would prefer over the Park. Abby Tools and Wheels Manufacturing make some very nice presses.


The issue I have is the 6800 bearing size in my Remedy's suspension linkage. WMFG does not make a drift for it, and checked at Abbey too. I wish WMFG had a drift as they sell them super cheap. RRP does make the tool/extractor at $26 /size from Chain reaction cycles, but by the time I buy all my bearing sizes and the press, I might as well buy a kit and have any size I need for other bikes in the future. I'm stuck between the Enduro BRT-005 kit and the Park tool HBP-1 (leaning this way).


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I have the puller and the press that they sell on Enduro Bearing's website. I bought the press from them but got the puller on Amazon. Got it considerably cheaper. 
Works great.


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## jbaileyhayden (Jul 27, 2014)

NYrr496 said:


> I have the puller and the press that they sell on Enduro Bearing's website. I bought the press from them but got the puller on Amazon. Got it considerably cheaper.
> Works great.


Which puller did you go with? Can you post the amazon link


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

https://www.amazon.com/Hammer-Bearing-Internal-External-Remover/dp/B00G1RXHKQ

It's EXACTLY the same one Enduro sells.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

While I'm sure there are some applications on bikes for Blind Pullers that use Slide Hammers, I have always had access to the back side to place bearing puller on and tap out with a drift. I'm guessing that you could do the same with these without having to use the slide hammer?


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## RamblerBill (Nov 29, 2015)

This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Pull...=1471558986&sr=8-4&keywords=bearing+extractor

Nice to have around for other projects too. Kind of overkill if you just want a bike kit.

I pull all cartridge bearings in my full suspension bike each year and replace. The bearings are CHEAP. With this or a similar tool there is no reason to try and reuse/lube old bearings. I HATE to be in the middle of riding season and get a suspension issue. Address it each winter and forget it for a year.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Perhaps this is little more than the definition of "CHEAP" or better stated as, one's disposable income level. I have over $200 of bearings and I don't see that as cheap to replace. I much prefer to service and maintain my bearing over replacement.


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## RamblerBill (Nov 29, 2015)

Interesting... My perspective is limited to my bike (a Scott Spark FS). The kit from spark is ~$100 but the bearings can be found for about. $3-5. The suspension has 6 bearings of which I replace 4 since they tend to get a lot of water and mud contact. That works out to $15-$20. I'd probably have a different perspective if I was looking at $200!

The bearings I use are similar to this:
Enduro Max 6800 Sealed Cartridge Bearing 10x19x5

With an ID, OD and thickness I was able to match up a good option for my rig.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Cleared2land said:


> ^^^^ Perhaps this is little more than the definition of "CHEAP" or better stated as, one's disposable income level. I have over $200 of bearings and I don't see that as cheap to replace. I much prefer to service and maintain my bearing over replacement.


^This^ I would rather maintain my bearings and use the $200 for other parts like tire's brake pads ect....
But I've known people who don't bother to maintain and just replace parts to each their own I guess.


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## RamblerBill (Nov 29, 2015)

Just curious what bike requires $200 in bearings to replace? Not trying to be critical but being able to use common components where possible is a plus. I lucked into this as my bike uses the same bearing for every pivot point and they can be had for $5 each. Figured that was a common thing.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

RamblerBill said:


> I pull all cartridge bearings in my full suspension bike each year and replace. The bearings are CHEAP.


Santa Cruz Tallboy CC

Enduro Bearing set for suspension - $75
Headset - $30
BB - $30
I-9 Enduro hub set w/ freehub - $70

not including pedals - $205


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## ericm979 (Sep 25, 2013)

I prefer to use a bearing extractor that doesn't require pounding on things. Pounding with a hammer or slide hammer ruins the bearing that you extract. A gentler screw type puller doesn't (though I tend to install new bearings rather then reuse a pulled bearing, unless that's all I have around. I've had some pulled bearings last a long time.)

The RRP puller/press is nice for suspension bearings. You can get it and the specific bearing adaptor kits from Chain Reaction in the UK for significantly cheaper than from RWS in the US.

For wheel bearings I use a press and adaptor from Wheels Mfg.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ Agree completely. Slide hammers are fine on my vehicle, but they won't see any use on my bike.


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## oberwil (Nov 5, 2007)

I use Wheels MFG which have collets that grab the bearing, then you can pucnh the bearing out. I also use their drifts and press for hubs. For BB I have Parks BBP-1 that will do and press fit BB. and RWC drifts for linkages. May cost more, but I can get the bearings for cheap and never have to worry about damaging them putting them in.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

For suspension bearing removal/pulling/installation it's hard to beat the tool from Ibis. $60
Ripley, bearing, Clemens, tool


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Agreed, this looks like a nice tool, especially for the price.

I'm not so sure about this part of the fixture and the extraction standoffs and the way they are on the painted surface.


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## rockman (Jun 18, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> Agreed, this looks like a nice tool, especially for the price.
> 
> I'm not so sure about this part of the fixture and the extraction standoffs and the way they are on the painted surface.
> 
> View attachment 1104874


I've only used it on my Ripley and it worked pretty well. I'm going to replace the bearings on my Turner RFX this winter and will report back on the utility on a different frame.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

Only one thing to remove bearings : a blind bearing puller. Don't waste your money buying something else. A blind puller is a tool to pull them all :smilewinkgrin:.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

euskafreez said:


> Only one thing to remove bearings : a blind bearing puller. Don't waste your money buying something else. A blind puller is a tool to pull them all :smilewinkgrin:.


In certain instances, I can agree depending on several points. Blind extractors can have their limitations.

If you do not have access to the back side of the bearing where you can use a drift to drive out the expanded bearing extractor, then you need a slide hammer. I am NOT a proponent of using a slide hammer on the more delicate areas of my carbon frame. Fortunately, most, but not all areas have access from the back side.


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## euskafreez (May 26, 2010)

Cleared2land said:


> In certain instances, I can agree depending on several points. Blind extractors can have their limitations.
> 
> If you do not have access to the back side of the bearing where you can use a drift to drive out the expanded bearing extractor, then you need a slide hammer. I am NOT a proponent of using a slide hammer on the more delicate areas of my carbon frame. Fortunately, most, but not all areas have access from the back side.


I should have said that a blind puller is the ideal extracting tool for cycling. We use the one from Enduro Bearings at work and I bought a cheap chinese made for my own workshop.

A blind puller helps so much a bike if you have to do a warranty. Or if the only thing left of the bearing is the outer cage. And I do think it's a much better solution on a push bike.

Although, we are using something different for bottom brackets. The BB Tools from Enduro in our case. Best and safest bearing extractor for bottom brackets in my opinion. But it ain't the cheapest option :nonod: .

Regarding the press, any press from WheelsMFG or Enduro will do. We have both and they perform the same. They are the one people should consider since the both press from Park are rubbish -sorry Park's fans-.


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## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

Thanks to the OP for starting this thread, and thanks to all others who have contributed. Saved me from starting a thread.

This is very timely as I am replacing all of the original suspension pivot bearings in my 2009 Pivot Mach 4. The upper link is a cool carbon wishbone design with 4 608 cartridge bearings. I have spent considerable time (on the internet) evaluating all of the options presented in this thread. IMO, the RRP press and extraction tool is clearly the best tool for this job. Pricey, yes, but worth it to keep my beloved 7 year old ride running smoothly. I'll canvas my LBSs to see what tool they have for the job, and if none meet my standards, I'll be buying the RRP tool. Thanks!


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

How would people rate the RWC tools vs RRP? Are the two companies related? - RWC sells some RRP stuff on their site. RWC actually uses the RRP instructions for its bearing press on its website. Perhaps it's just UK vs US versions

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id540.html

http://www.rapidracerproducts.com/products/tools/bpet.html

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## ctw55 (Apr 19, 2013)

^^^ Was just wondering the same thing


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

DriverB said:


> How would people rate the RWC tools vs RRP? Are the two companies related? - RWC sells some RRP stuff on their site. RWC actually uses the RRP instructions for its bearing press on its website. Perhaps it's just UK vs US versions


We were excited to offer the RRP tools in the US but distribution became a nightmare since we were required to order UK product through "distributor" in Canada (for which distribution was a sideline, as it turned out). After constant backorders, forgetting to process our orders, and frequently shipping us the wrong product, we had to give up and start making our own. It's a significant outlay of materials and labor, but does allow us do our own improvements and cover new sizes, etc..


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Chris2fur said:


> We were excited to offer the RRP tools in the US but distribution became a nightmare since we were required to order UK product through "distributor" in Canada (for which distribution was a sideline, as it turned out). After constant backorders, forgetting to process our orders, and frequently shipping us the wrong product, we had to give up and start making our own. It's a significant outlay of materials and labor, but does allow us do our own improvements and cover new sizes, etc..


Sounds like RWC is the way to go for we in the USA, thanks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


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## thiagoveloso (Sep 12, 2014)

rockman said:


> For suspension bearing removal/pulling/installation it's hard to beat the tool from Ibis. $60
> Ripley, bearing, Clemens, tool


Is this tool meant for extracting suspension bearings only from Ibis's Ripley? Or can it be used as a general extraction kit? I am trying to replace the bearings of my 2010 Gary Fisher Rumblefish One, but I am really stuck at the stage of removing the original bearings...


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I am not familiar with the specifics of your situation, but between different bikes and even different bearings on a given bike there can be a variety of tools or methods needed to extract bearings, so I think it fairly unlikely that the Ripley tool would work for you, though there is a chance it might. To remove any pressed in bearing, you need two things, a means of contacting the bearing and a means of apply the force necessary to extract it, either pushing or pulling. Most often, a cylindrical item of the right diameter is used to contact the bearing from behind. Sometimes an internal collet type extractor is needed if the bearing needs to be gripped from the front. Once the bearing is contacted or gripped, it's got to be pushed or pulled to extract it while avoiding cocking the bearing in it's pocket. In some cases there is a flat face surrounding the pocket that can be used to oppose pulling. In other cases, tapping or a slide hammer might be needed. 

There can be additional complications. On occasion, a the inner race of the bearing may have come apart and you're left with extracting the outer race. In some instances you still might be able to contact the race from behind, but it's not uncommon to have to use an internal collet type tool to get it out. 

It's generally accepted that extracting a bearing by pushing on the unsupported race damages it. The same holds true for installing a bearing.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Lone Rager said:


> I am not familiar with the specifics of your situation, but between different bikes and even different bearings on a given bike there can be a variety of tools or methods needed to extract bearings, so I think it fairly unlikely that the Ripley tool would work for you, though there is a chance it might. To remove any pressed in bearing, you need two things, a means of contacting the bearing and a means of apply the force necessary to extract it, either pushing or pulling. Most often, a cylindrical item of the right diameter is used to contact the bearing from behind. Sometimes an internal collet type extractor is needed if the bearing needs to be gripped from the front. Once the bearing is contacted or gripped, it's got to be pushed or pulled to extract it while avoiding cocking the bearing in it's pocket. In some cases there is a flat face surrounding the pocket that can be used to oppose pulling. In other cases, tapping or a slide hammer might be needed.
> 
> There can be additional complications. On occasion, a the inner race of the bearing may have come apart and you're left with extracting the outer race. In some instances you still might be able to contact the race from behind, but it's not uncommon to have to use an internal collet type tool to get it out.
> 
> It's generally accepted that extracting a bearing by pushing on the unsupported race damages it. The same holds true for installing a bearing.


The above is a very good summary of the specific challenges relating to suspension pivot bearing changeouts. All of these things have been considered in the design of our suspension bearing specific tools.

Thiagoveloso, your 2010 Rumblefish bearings and the corresponding tools are listed below:

6900 FE RS (special bearing with outer race flange and extended inner race) uses tool number: RWC BEARING GUIDE KIT 3 SBT6900. You'll note this kit contains a special larger "cup" for the flanged bearing.

6901 MAX bearing: RWC BEARING GUIDE KIT 10 SBT6901

6903 MAX bearing: RWC BEARING GUIDE KIT 9 SBT6903

http://enduroforkseals.com/id486.html


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Harold said:


> when it comes to removing suspension bearings, I've used allthread, some nuts and washers, and sockets.


I do the same...quick trip to hardware store is needed sometimes but usually not hard to create your own. I've got many 'special' tools kicking around that I've made that way.


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## thiagoveloso (Sep 12, 2014)

Lone Rager said:


> I am not familiar with the specifics of your situation, but between different bikes and even different bearings on a given bike there can be a variety of tools or methods needed to extract bearings, so I think it fairly unlikely that the Ripley tool would work for you, though there is a chance it might. To remove any pressed in bearing, you need two things, a means of contacting the bearing and a means of apply the force necessary to extract it, either pushing or pulling. Most often, a cylindrical item of the right diameter is used to contact the bearing from behind. Sometimes an internal collet type extractor is needed if the bearing needs to be gripped from the front. Once the bearing is contacted or gripped, it's got to be pushed or pulled to extract it while avoiding cocking the bearing in it's pocket. In some cases there is a flat face surrounding the pocket that can be used to oppose pulling. In other cases, tapping or a slide hammer might be needed.
> 
> There can be additional complications. On occasion, a the inner race of the bearing may have come apart and you're left with extracting the outer race. In some instances you still might be able to contact the race from behind, but it's not uncommon to have to use an internal collet type tool to get it out.
> 
> It's generally accepted that extracting a bearing by pushing on the unsupported race damages it. The same holds true for installing a bearing.


Thanks for the thorough response!



Chris2fur said:


> The above is a very good summary of the specific challenges relating to suspension pivot bearing changeouts. All of these things have been considered in the design of our suspension bearing specific tools.
> 
> Thiagoveloso, your 2010 Rumblefish bearings and the corresponding tools are listed below:
> 
> ...


Thanks for your response as well Chris - it taught me that it would required me three different cups, plus the base tool, to get the old bearings out of my frame.

I found it too expensive to purchase the tools myself, because it would be such a high investment for such a sporadic use.

I ended up taking my frame to a bike shop. Since they specialize in Trek bikes, they had all the specific tools required to remove and install the pivot bearings.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

thiagoveloso said:


> Thanks for the thorough response!
> 
> Thanks for your response as well Chris - it taught me that it would required me three different cups, plus the base tool, to get the old bearings out of my frame.
> 
> ...


That is a very reasonable way to go and perhaps best for the majority of people. I got into this business a result of wanting to do all of my own work, but that's not for everyone.


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

I just purchased the wheels manufacturing press and drift set. Cost around $120 total. Nice quality, and I can't believe how much easier it is to press in bearings with this set than trying to hack something together with a rubber mallet and a clamp. Totally worth the investment if you have any desire to replace your bearings yourself.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Yes, it's nice to have the specialty tools for this task or any other task, but patience and a good mechanical skill set can usually accomplish this task with equal quality.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

freeride9 said:


> Hi guys the best price on the RRP bearing extractor is here: https://reciprocators.ca/collection...n-tool/products/bearing-press-extraction-tool


This is a really nice and compact bearing installer and extractor. However, take note at why this is priced accordingly. It doe not include any of the bearing installation or extraction adapters that you must have. These are all sold separately. As long as you are aware of this added cost, you can then decide if the cost and value are inline with your budget expectations.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Cleared2land said:


> It does not include any of the bearing installation or extraction adapters that you must have.


You don't strictly speaking need them. You could cobble something together that would work. A bit of threaded rod and a few nuts and washers and you're golden.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Yepper, done with a little thought and patience these DYI improvised tools can perform admirably.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

*Closed link guides for angular contact bearings now available*

Well, I guess it's not too off topic to announce the recent release of our "closed linkage" angular contact bearings tools. We have the two main sizes used in most Santa Cruz and Intense frames--7900 and 7902.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Nice looking kit Chris. While there might be other extractor kits that provide for the inevitable inner race pull-out on angular bearings, this is the first one that I have seen. 

I see that you're demonstrating on a Santa Cruz Upper Link. Only on a few occasions have I been able to extract the angular bearings intact. The majority of the time, the inner race pulls out and I have to use a larger puller to extract the outer race that remains in the link/frame.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> Nice looking kit Chris. While there might be other extractor kits that provide for the inevitable inner race pull-out on angular bearings, this is the first one that I have seen.
> 
> I see that you're demonstrating on a Santa Cruz Upper Link. Only on a few occasions have I been able to extract the angular bearings intact. The majority of the time, the inner race pulls out and I have to use a larger puller to extract the inner race.


Thanks! Actually SC makes one that works on broken bearings as well, but:

1) It requires a hammer (we hate hammers used on bikes)

2) It grabs only the seal groove. Ours is much more secure with the additional grip on inside the ball path.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

That does look like a lovely tool.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

A little extra grip on the ball path sounds good.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> A little extra grip on the ball path sounds good.


Well, I would expect a nard to think so


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

If I am reading these RWC kits correctly, I would need to order one for the 7900 & one for the 7902 for my Tallboy?

Cheers,
Mike


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mbcracken said:


> If I am reading these RWC kits correctly, I would need to order one for the 7900 & one for the 7902 for my Tallboy?
> 
> Cheers,
> Mike


What model year and iteration do you have?


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Chris2fur said:


> What model year and iteration do you have?


Whoops..sorry. Tallboy3.

Cheers,
Mike


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mbcracken said:


> Whoops..sorry. Tallboy3.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mike


SC made this pretty confusing. There all Tallboy 3 Carbon frames with angular contact bearings (7902/7900) and there are Tallboy 3 Carbon frames with radial bearings (6902/6900). Either way, you would need both tools and the dimensions of the bearings are the same--just the way the races fit together is different.

...and if you have the Tallboy 3 Aluminum, you should need just the 7902 closed link tool. The 6900 bearings on that frame are in an open link, and this tool, which is cheaper is what you need for that:
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/tools/rear-suspension-tools/SBT6900.html


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

The Radial bearings were introduced later...either can be used. Thanks for the confirmation I would need both kits though.

Cheers,
Mike


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

mbcracken said:


> The Radial bearings were introduced later...either can be used. Thanks for the confirmation I would need both kits though.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mike


Mike, see my edit. If your frame is aluminum, you won't need both closed-link tools.


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## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Chris2fur said:


> Mike, see my edit. If your frame is aluminum, you won't need both closed-link tools.


You must have been edited when I responding. I have a Tallboy3 Carbon CC frame.

Cheers,
Mike


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Trying to make sense out of this too. I have a 2018 Hightower C frame I got at the end of the year. Can someone confirm that I need the 7902 and 6900 tools as well? How do I tell if I have the radial or angular contact bearings?

Fortunately I don't need to worry about replacing bearings now, but I will want to make sure I have everything needed by the end of this upcoming season. Thanks!


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

And one more question: is there any way one set of handles can be used with both the 7902 and the 6900 guides? I see the 6900 says to use the RWC Handleset 1(8mm) handles and the 7902 set says to use the RWC Handleset 2 (5 mm). I'm not opposed to paying for good tools, but this adds up really quickly...


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> I'm not opposed to paying for good tools, but this adds up really quickly...


Just some regular servicing of the bearings is a pretty inexpensive way to go if $ are an issue. Some just seem to like replacing instead of servicing.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Cleared2land said:


> Just some regular servicing of the bearings is a pretty inexpensive way to go if $ are an issue. Some just seem to like replacing instead of servicing.


Definitely will be doing the regular service, and I certainly hope to not have to replace bearings this year. I'm just observing that if/when it is time to replace bearings, going with the RWC tools you are looking at $330 for both of the guides and both handle sets. If you can get away with a single handle set you save $79.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> Trying to make sense out of this too. I have a 2018 Hightower C frame I got at the end of the year. Can someone confirm that I need the 7902 and 6900 tools as well? How do I tell if I have the radial or angular contact bearings?
> 
> Fortunately I don't need to worry about replacing bearings now, but I will want to make sure I have everything needed by the end of this upcoming season. Thanks!


If yours is 2018 I'm sure it has radials. That doesn't mean the tool won't work. It depends upon which between-the-bearing spacers they are using (see illustrations below). Original spacers for the radials had two notches to allow for the collet arms to grab the bearings. Now some of the very latest frames only have one notch in the spacer. Why? Because the original spacers apparently bent some times and SC decided they would be stronger with one notch. Now they recommend knocking the bearing out with a hammer and punch, using the single notch and going around in a circle. Not joking.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> And one more question: is there any way one set of handles can be used with both the 7902 and the 6900 guides? I see the 6900 says to use the RWC Handleset 1(8mm) handles and the 7902 set says to use the RWC Handleset 2 (5 mm). I'm not opposed to paying for good tools, but this adds up really quickly...


We've optimized each individual press tool and used the larger (stronger) rod where possible. However, I suppose we could consider some bushings for the 5mm rod of the smaller handle set (which would allow it to be used with other bearing guides that normally use the 8mm rod).


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Chris2fur said:


> We've optimized each individual press tool and used the larger (stronger) rod where possible. However, I suppose we could consider some bushings for the 5mm rod of the smaller handle set (which would allow it to be used with other bearing guides that normally use the 8mm rod).


If the 5mm handles + bushing work correctly that would be great. If it requires the 8mm rod, then I understand that the second set of handles is needed. Thanks for the explanation/clarification.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Chris2fur said:


> Now they recommend knocking the bearing out with a hammer and punch, using the single notch and going around in a circle. Not joking.


Somehow, that doesn't sound like much fun...


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Chris2fur said:


> It depends upon which between-the-bearing spacers they are using (see illustrations below). Original spacers for the radials had two notches to allow for the collet arms to grab the bearings. Now some of the very latest frames only have one notch in the spacer.


I've been looking at the illustrations - if I understand you correctly, the Hightower illustration (upper) has the double notch in the spacer and the lower illustration (Blur v3) has the single notch. Correct?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> I've been looking at the illustrations - if I understand you correctly, the Hightower illustration (upper) has the double notch in the spacer and the lower illustration (Blur v3) has the single notch. Correct?


Yes. But my understanding is that they will all go to one notch eventually. Not sure why they just wouldn't make the sleeve/spacer stronger or make the notches a bit shallower.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

SqueakyWheel73 said:


> If the 5mm handles + bushing work correctly that would be great. If it requires the 8mm rod, then I understand that the second set of handles is needed. Thanks for the explanation/clarification.


I think it would work on the smaller bearing sizes. When the bearing sockets are machined for a light press fit and greased, they come out without much trouble. I've been surprised at how tight a press fit some manufactures use (sometimes so tight that the press fit compresses out race and makes brand new bearings notchy).


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## MarkMass (Sep 10, 2006)

Great looking stuff! What extractor kit(s) do you recommend for recent Santa Cruz, Ibis, and Rocky Mountain carbon frames? Asking for a friend. 



Chris2fur said:


> Well, I guess it's not too off topic to announce the recent release of our "closed linkage" angular contact bearings tools. We have the two main sizes used in most Santa Cruz and Intense frames--7900 and 7902.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Okay, we have added an adapter to "Handle Set 2" to allow the 5mm threaded rod to be used with bearing guides designed for Handle Set 1 with 8mm rod. On some of the largest bearings, especially where press fit is tight, understand the 5mm rod has some limitations. The adapter is included with the handle set and also makes it compatible with our needle bearing and DU bushing tools.


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## SqueakyWheel73 (Sep 21, 2018)

Chris2fur said:


> Okay, we have added an adapter to "Handle Set 2" to allow the 5mm threaded rod to be used with bearing guides designed for Handle Set 1 with 8mm rod. On some of the largest bearings, especially where press fit is tight, understand the 5mm rod has some limitations. The adapter is included with the handle set and also makes it compatible with our needle bearing and DU bushing tools.


Great news - thank you!


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## Exalix (Aug 9, 2016)

So.. How am I pulling out these bearings? They sit in pairs close together.
Canyon Spectral CFR 2019. All carbon! The bearings are with a lib on the outer race, so they can't be pressed through.


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Exalix said:


> So.. How am I pulling out these bearings? They sit in pairs close together.
> Canyon Spectral CFR 2019. All carbon! The bearings are with a lib on the outer race, so they can't be pressed through.


You have to use a blind bearing puller on the outside bearings and then you can push the inside bearings out using one of our suspension bearing tools or improvise with sockets and a threaded rod.


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## Exalix (Aug 9, 2016)

Chris2fur said:


> You have to use a blind bearing puller on the outside bearings and then you can push the inside bearings out using one of our suspension bearing tools or improvise with sockets and a threaded rod.


Thanks, is it safe to use your blind bearing puller with the slide hammer on carbon?


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## Chris2fur (Jan 13, 2004)

Exalix said:


> Thanks, is it safe to use your blind bearing puller with the slide hammer on carbon?


It's not my preferred method, but, if aligned carefully and gently applied, it should work fine. You simply don't have any other options in this case. Hopefully the manufacturer did not Loctite them in place.


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## Exalix (Aug 9, 2016)

Chris2fur said:


> Hopefully the manufacturer did not Locktite them in place.


They didn't, and that is exactly the problem in my case. The flanged bearings sitting on the inside of the seat stay are loose, and creates play and knocking when flexing the rear wheel from side to side. And no, it's not the rear wheel hub or anything.. My plan is to pull the loose bearings out, and put them back in with Locktite 638 compound, until Canyon, they confirmed they will, send me a new rear triangle(seat and chain stays). Because it's only a temporarily solution.


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## martinTrek (Apr 9, 2020)

HI all. Im after a bearing puller and install kit can yous recommend one . Thanks


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