# Park Headset Press HHP-2 vs HHP-3



## MTBDad (Jan 2, 2004)

I am in the market for a new headset press. Nope, I don;t press headsets often, but at $25 bucks a crack minimum to the LBS, it is not a crazy expenditure either. Wondering if anyone has any personal experience with the newer, less expensive, HHP-3 press. Wondering if there is much give-up for the $60-$70 vs the HHP-2. Thank you in advance.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

I can't answer your question Dad but that HHP-3 is a glorified threaded rod, washers and nuts from the Homer. Why not make your own for <<$10?


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## Ogre (Feb 17, 2005)

A vice with a couple boards works fine also. Heck in a pinch I've used a couple 2x4s and a hammer 

I would suggest that if you don't use it very often that you get the less expensive one.


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## Cleaner (Mar 23, 2004)

*This is an alternative*

I have the Park HHP-2 and it works nicely but this seems like it is about the same functionally and is less expensive. You can try using code SEPT10 for 10% off on it as well.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=11138


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## teamdicky (Jan 12, 2004)

Better yet:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/14...Tools/Sette-Torx-ST-107-Bearing-Cup-Press.htm


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## mx_599 (Dec 10, 2005)

MTBDad said:


> I am in the market for a new headset press. Nope, I don;t press headsets often, but at $25 bucks a crack minimum to the LBS, it is not a crazy expenditure either. Wondering if anyone has any personal experience with the newer, less expensive, HHP-3 press. Wondering if there is much give-up for the $60-$70 vs the HHP-2. Thank you in advance.


i have the hhp-2. it works great. depending on your method, just be cautious of the cup turning as it is being pressed into the HT slightly causing a logo to be out of line.

mx


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## mx_599 (Dec 10, 2005)

Mike T. said:


> I can't answer your question Dad but that HHP-3 is a glorified threaded rod, washers and nuts from the Homer. Why not make your own for <<$10?


not true.

your version for less than 10 dollars will not be anywhere near as nice as the 40 dollar hhp-3

mx


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## Toff (Sep 11, 2004)

My homemade one works perfectly.

Less than $10 and I am very happy with it.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

mx_599 said:


> not true.
> your version for less than 10 dollars will not be anywhere near as nice as the 40 dollar hhp-3


Geee and I thought I was being hi-tech recommending a Home Depot Special. Heck for five decades I've had no problems with the  hammer and 2x4 method. Just what *is* better about the $40 one to justify another $30+?


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## Spartacus Rex (Dec 18, 2006)

Mike T. said:


> Geee and I thought I was being hi-tech recommending a Home Depot Special. Heck for five decades I've had no problems with the  hammer and 2x4 method. Just what *is* better about the $40 one to justify another $30+?


I would wager that you've never installed a Chris King steelset. I doubt a 2X4 would set it straight in. I would think you would snap the headtube off the bike trying to wack one of those in place.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Spartacus Rex said:


> I would wager that you've never installed a Chris King steelset. I doubt a 2X4 would set it straight in. I would think you would snap the headtube off the bike trying to wack one of those in place.


If the frame is prepared using acceptable specs for that headset (1.25" bore depth and under 0.004" interference) why would an insertion depth 1/2" deeper than a "normal" headset cause a headtube to snap off? For some folks, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.


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## mx_599 (Dec 10, 2005)

Mike T. said:


> Geee and I thought I was being hi-tech recommending a Home Depot Special. Heck for five decades I've had no problems with the  hammer and 2x4 method. Just what *is* better about the $40 one to justify another $30+?


first off, i am not going to argue with you mike. i have used a couple of your hints for wheel building and generally respect your opinion.

you know as well as i do that any press fit is better than hitting with a hammer. this will pretty much apply across the board for mechanics, not just toy bicycles. if you did not know this, then maybe i should reconsider future posting of yours here.

lastly, i am well aware of how much nuts and bolts etc cost at places like HD and ACE. if you were to even be able to buy hardware that sort of matched the park tool it would be more than 10 dollars. i was well aware of the nut-washer-bolt method and do not at all regret my purchase of the park tool. it is far nicer. post your home made version.

mx


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## Toff (Sep 11, 2004)

I hope you two realize that you are arguing about something that really doesn't matter.

I'm sure the park one is nice but the home-made one works very well also.

Lets talk about hub engagement points or something and if more is better.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

mx_599 said:


> you know as well as i do that any press fit is better than hitting with a hammer. this will pretty much apply across the board for mechanics, not just toy bicycles. if you did not know this, then maybe i should reconsider future posting of yours here.


I'm a licensed auto mechanic for over forty years. The simple Interference Fit holds no mystery (yawn, scratch) to me and the information I give out on bicycle mechanics attempts to remove that mystery for others too.


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## rdhood (Jul 30, 2008)

Ive done it all.... the 2x4, threaded rod, headset press. If you are going to press many headsets over a lifetime (ive done 6 or 7), a headset press is the way to go. It beats the heck out of threaded rod for ease of pressing. 

that said, I dont know what the Park variants have over a generic press. I got a generic press from Nashbar some 10 years ago for $50, and it has been easy to use. I never pressed a CK headset, but most other headsets press fine in seconds.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

You could buy a couple of dedicated box end wrenches to go with the threaded rod, washers and nuts, and that might take you up to $30, or you could buy a Craftsman box end and one ratcheting box end wrench to make the operation easier. That would actually take it up over $40, but you'd have some spare wrenches to boot.


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

A word of caution: back when I worked in a 'shop, I saw a number of aluminum headtubes crack (hairline) longitudinally and aluminum headset cups bend from attempted installation with 2x4s, vices, etc. 

I've also seen these methods succeed, but be sure to weigh the potential consequences with each technique.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Diesel~ said:


> A word of caution: back when I worked in a 'shop, I saw a number of aluminum headtubes crack (hairline) longitudinally and aluminum headset cups bend from attempted installation with 2x4s, vices, etc.
> I've also seen these methods succeed, but be sure to weigh the potential consequences with each technique.


The method of force application has nothing to do with splitting or not splitting. The amount of interference fit has everything to do with splitting. Only a fool would install a headset without knowing the amount that the head tube will expand and whether it's within acceptable limits.

I put 'em in with a hammer and wood but I sure as hell vernier caliper the headtube before doing so. How many shop "mechanics" ever do that?


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

Mike T. said:


> The method of force application has nothing to do with splitting or not splitting. The amount of interference fit has everything to do with splitting. Only a fool would install a headset without knowing the amount that the head tube will expand and whether it's within acceptable limits.


Certain methods of "force application" make it more difficult to keep the force in line with the head tube, which can lead to excess stress in this area.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

i vote for the $50 price point press, or the $5-$10 home made variety. i have installed 2 headsets on the last year with 2 different homemade setups. the first one of an fsa the pig into a redline monocog was a pain in the ass. i put together a new set up for about $5 that actually had nuts that fit wrenches in my toolkit. i used that set up to put a cane creek s-3 into a vassago jabberwocky, and that was easy as pie. 10 minutes start to finish. 








after i snapped the pic, i decided to first put in the top cup, then the bottom to keep the variable level to a minimum.


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## biotruth (Sep 29, 2005)

I've been doing ~5/year for a few years now (mine, SO, friends), so the $100 for the HHP2 has been well worth it. you still should use the CK cups if you are doing those a few times, so that is another $20. The advantage of the HHP2 is the adaptability of the tool to a variety of different headsets.

If you can afford the quality tools, why not use them? they will last for years, so the cost/use will be low. And you might get a few beers from friends.


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## xjoex (Jan 4, 2006)

I have used the bolts/washer method for years... but








after seeing this thread go on and on, I picked up the Pricepoint headset press. What a deal, that thing is great. I had been a wrench for years and used the nice Park one, but this Pricepoint is really a nice knock off, if you have a need for it and want to spend $40 I'd say pick it up.

I'll take some pics of the pricepoint one later...

-Joe


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## KINBOY (May 23, 2004)

Yepper, I have worked in shops with about 5 years exp and 15 year racing and I will say, the threaded rod is the best bang for the buck. I have used the Park and others and they work great but for the number of times you are going to use it the threaded rod is the way to go. I have set more than 100 and a couple CK with the rod and about 2 dozen different washers and never had one go wrong. 

On topic, I made a cup remover out of aluminum tube stock and used a chop saw to cut and then flared it with a hammer and tube.......and it works great!!! Even makes the ping when the tines slide over the lip...bea..u...ti...ful!

KIN


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## ETP2008 (Aug 26, 2008)

*minor upgrade to the washer technique*

I'm gonna install my cane creek with these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mountain-Bike-B...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I figure it's gonna be rare that I have to use them and I am really hurting from the cost of my bike build. So now I am skimping on tools where I can. I really want a nice stand but I think I'm going to tag this to my garage wall and watch craigslist for a park:

http://www.yourmtb.com/story/build_your_own_bike_repair_stand_for_under_20


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

ETP2008 said:


> I'm gonna install my cane creek with these:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Mountain-Bike-B...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
> 
> ...


I just bought the same setup plus the threaded rod from the same guy on ebay. I also installed my first headset last week with it. It worked ok, but wasn't perfect. To me it seems like it would be smarter to have something with a wider surface than the cups.

The things that you and I bought are just about exactly the same diameter as the cups. So that made them really want to squirm when tightening the nut. The guy that sells those sent along some instructions that said it was best to tap the cups into the headtube a little first before starting.

I grabbed a 2 X 4 and tapped the top one in a quarter inch making sure it was flush. Then i put the assembly together and proceeded to press both cups in at the same time with no problem.

Again, this was my first one, but i am guessing that the real tool probably would work a little better. I have spent most of my life working on stuff so i was smart enough not to butcher the headtube but i wonder if someone else might have just cranked her down and hoped for the best?


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## xjoex (Jan 4, 2006)

I picked up the Pricepoint headset press just to check it out, I mean the threaded rod method is nice, works 100%, but admittedly when I put the headset in my gucci road bike I borrowed a park one from a friend.

The pricepoint one is really nice! Its a great knock off of the park HHP-2.










More pics here. 

-Joe


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

xjoex said:


> I picked up the Pricepoint headset press just to check it out, I mean the threaded rod method is nice, works 100%, but admittedly when I put the headset in my gucci road bike I borrowed a park one from a friend.
> 
> The pricepoint one is really nice! Its a great knock off of the park HHP-2.
> 
> ...


Your blog explains that this model keeps the cups from going in crooked like they do with the nuts and bolt. Can you elaborate on this more? How is it different because it still seems that there will be a flat surface pulling on the face of the cups just like the washers do on the home brew. Thanks.


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## xjoex (Jan 4, 2006)

Thinkly said:


> Your blog explains that this model keeps the cups from going in crooked like they do with the nuts and bolt. Can you elaborate on this more? How is it different because it still seems that there will be a flat surface pulling on the face of the cups just like the washers do on the home brew. Thanks.


So the stepped rings on the pricepoint tool keep the cups lined up with each other and the tool.

On the washer and threaded rod method, the cups can start going in crooked as there is nothing keeping them centered in the tool.

Not a big deal, but it is nice to see the cups go in straight the whole time.

-Joe


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## GrampBredo (Dec 18, 2007)

Never used a press, but I've installed plenty of headsets (including CK) on alot of different bikes using the home depot special. Never had a problem and can't justify a real press.


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## rdhood (Jul 30, 2008)

xjoex said:


> I picked up the Pricepoint headset press just to check it out, I mean the threaded rod method is nice, works 100%, but admittedly when I put the headset in my gucci road bike I borrowed a park one from a friend.
> 
> The pricepoint one is really nice! Its a great knock off of the park HHP-2.
> 
> ...


I've used both a press (bought 8 years ago from nashbar, just like the one shown above) and a Home Depot special. While they both work, the HD specials can be a pain in the butt sometimes... enough that I figured that I was doing it often enough to justify the cost of a $50 headset press.

Further, if I am installing a $70-$100 headset in a $1000 frame, I figured, "why not do it with the right tool if it is only $50?"


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

rdhood said:


> I've used both a press (bought 8 years ago from nashbar, just like the one shown above) and a Home Depot special. While they both work, the HD specials can be a pain in the butt sometimes... enough that I figured that I was doing it often enough to justify the cost of a $50 headset press.
> 
> Further, if I am installing a $70-$100 headset in a $1000 frame, I figured, "why not do it with the right tool if it is only $50?"


Yeah, i expect a lot of this debate depends on the cost of the frame and headset. :thumbsup:


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