# Alfine.. simply service.. and follow up review..



## EFMax (Aug 20, 2008)

* ALFINE 8 speed (in WORD)*... This is just an A-B-C to re-greasing the hub (not a total breakdown) just a regrease..

*Okay, *I am no expert but I keep asking for info and getting good answers but I thought that I would actually make a contribution.

While recently waiting for new bits to build up a new wheel, I thought that I would give the olde Alfine a little love and attention, so I stripped it down (only as far as I could or felt safe).



> *So after wheel removal from bike, here is how you proceed to give the insides a good clean and fresh lubrication.*


*1:* You need to remove the rotors from the nearside. This will require a special splined key (I just happen to have one around and its good to keep one for yourself), but this fits on the end of a socket wrench and it allows the removal of the retaining plate that holds the six bolt adapter plate and the rotor in place.

*THEN:*










*2:* On the drive-side, you need to remove the axle nuts and the cassette joint/casing (*CJ-8S20*). If you still have the original instructions, look at them, even if you do not, it is a very straight forward removal via a twisting in opposing directions of the two uppermost pieces of the setup.

*3:* Once removed (and placed safely to one side), you then need a adjustable wrench on the near side axle bolt and an adjustable wrench (or their spanner equal) on the drive-side axle bolt and start to loosen the bolts.

*You should end up once all is separated, with an image like this -*










You should now have, 4 separate bits and here you can see (as a reminder) the order they come off in (and therefore go back on in).

Here again is the four rings and starting from the top, is the order they come off in. You will need to reverse this order upon re-assembly.










*5:* I choose to clean these up by degreasing them first and then soaking them in some Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and then dry them with a soft cloth and lay them to one side until re-assembly time.. do not forget the order that they came off in or go back on.

*6:* You now have access to the sprocket but before this will come off you have a seriously strong c-clip spring to remove. This is very strong and I was able to remove it using a small screw driver but be very careful upon its removal as it is under a fair bit of tension. No special tools are needed for its removal, just strength and patience. (Safety goggles should be considered).

*7:* There is another rubber ring that needs to be removed (not under tension) and a small screw driver is all that is needed to lift it up and off.

*8:* Only one ring with a rubber ring around left, and this is easily lifted off (but NOTE: upon replacement, it fits on in what looks like an upside down manner): The whole sprocket ring, dust caps etc can now be removed and placed to one side for cleaning.

*9:* I choose to flip the wheel over and then remove the two locking nuts on the opposite side of the axle. Again, two adjustable wrenches (or spanners) are needed for their removal.










You will notice that when these two nuts are removed, that you can see some ball bearings, these will NOT fall out, so don't worry about them.. but when you re-assemble, I would give them a little clean and re-grease them with a nice new coating of axle grease (I have used good quality bearing grease) as used in automatic gearboxes.. once again, these won't fall out and if they do, then you have probably moved something that I could not see how it could be moved.. but you should be ok, just aware.

*10:* Ok, flip the wheel back over, and you have one last cap/ring to remove and that is the big outer ring with what looks like geared tooth notches on it.. this is removed by getting a good clean grip and rotating it clockwise (yes clockwise).

*11:* Upon this ring's removal, the whole assembly can now be lifted out.

*12:* Upon first inspecting you will see little bits of white grease here and there but there is not a lot of it.. but stuck to mine was small amounts of metal swarf (I guess this is to be expected from new as the metal to metal contacts do their job..

*13:* I have got some good quality ATF (you only need about ½ litre) and a tall but slim biscuit (or coffee) tin and filled it with ATF and dunked the whole assembly in there after first de-greasing it.. (not sure if you need to degrease, but I did).

*14:* I left it for 5mins, took it out and let it drip itself semi-dry.

*15:* Got myself some good quality transmission bearing grease and with a nice set of rubber gloves on, I then generously coated the whole unit, and I mean generously.. (swear I used to work in massage parlour in an earlier life).

There is a lot of choice of the various greases but I should imagine that anything good enough for an automatic gearbox (which gets really hot and has to deal with a lot of torque, should be more than enough for our Alfines).










*16:* I then generously coated the inside of the hub shell -










This did have grease in before but it was very thin on mine, so I did not scrimp on the re-grease.

*17:	Just a case of reverse assembly now.*

	Put the assembly back in, should be nice tight fit with just a little bit of wiggling.
	Re-grease the outer ring/cap that holds this in place (acts as a barrier to water thereafter).
	Replace all rings, washers and nuts in their correct order and remember that the steel c-ring, will give you a fight to go back in place, but you can do it by yourself and with no more tools than a small screw driver.
	You really need to double check that all rings are back not just in the correct order but the correct way round and seated correctly in their respective locating place.
o	That is of the four rings, ring 1 needs to sit correctly on top of the two locating studs and ring 2 needs to sit correctly on top of that.
o	Ring 3 then needs to be locate correctly and ring 4, should be obvious but may need a little wiggle to fit back in the correct way.

If you fail to get these rings seated correctly, then the cassette joint may fit, but most certainly, not correctly&#8230; when all is done and well, the red dots on the cassette joint should be able to line up.

You then add and make sure all axle bolts are attached and when you tighten them up, no muscles needed.. you can check that all is well by gripping one side of the axle bolt and using a wrench or spanner, freely move the drive side, there should be no glitches or sticking, just a nice free (albeit stiff) motion.



> To extra check before you completely re-assemble with everything, I dropped it into the axle and put the axle retaining lugs into the frame, no need to tighten it up, but the wheel should spin freely.


The rest is just cosmetics, grease what needs to be greased, clean up around all joints and then just finish off, put your wheel back on the bike and I reckon you should be good for at least another 10,000 miles&#8230; (mine had done around 6500 with no real issues - though I did think it was just a weenie bit noisy on the odd occasion).

Do excuse the wobbly photos but I was both gloved up and greased up at the time.. and if I have missed anything out, please tell me so as I can edit it..

* REVIEW: My first 1500 miles *...

*My 2nd review after 6500 miles.*


> All in all, I am still a very happy chappy with my Alfine 8 speed.. but, like you do, you will form opinions after a while and I am at that stage where the new Alfine 11 speeds is up and coming&#8230; so should I swap, do I go for it.
> 
> Well after giving the hub a simple service and along the way I have also experimented with a both a double and a triple chain ring up front, these are my quick views now.
> 
> ...


Good luck guys..
EF..


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## kiwial (Aug 27, 2010)

WTF? 1 day ago you wrote in a different post: "...plus any details of how you stripped it down cos *I still can't suss out how to get into mine (probably just the wrong tools)."* (and I tried to help you...) and then today you write in this post: "While *recently *waiting for new bits to build up a new wheel, I thought that I would give the old Alfine a little love and attention, so *I stripped it down (only as far as I could or felt safe).*"
Am I missing something or are you 'missing something' ?
And I don't know where to start responding to *your* 'Instruction'. Well, long story short: Delete it!
BTW what do you think is wrong with the official Shimano instruction??
You are funny... and entertaining... in a strange sort of way.
:yawn:  :skep: :crazy: :nonod: :bluefrown:  :lol:


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## norcom (Feb 22, 2007)

So why not take the gears apart to clean/check/lube everything inside?


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## EFMax (Aug 20, 2008)

kiwial said:


> WTF? 1 day ago you wrote in a different post: "...plus any details of how you stripped it down cos *I still can't suss out how to get into mine (probably just the wrong tools)."* (and I tried to help you...) and then today you write in this post: "While *recently *waiting for new bits to build up a new wheel, I thought that I would give the old Alfine a little love and attention, so *I stripped it down (only as far as I could or felt safe).*"
> Am I missing something or are you 'missing something' ?
> And I don't know where to start responding to *your* 'Instruction'. Well, long story short: Delete it!
> BTW what do you think is wrong with the official Shimano instruction??
> ...





> *Okay, I am no expert but I keep asking for info and getting good answers but I thought that I would actually make a contribution.*


I asked for your help the other day (because I had not come across the official Shimano instructions) and you gave it and I said thank you, I then yesterday followed those instructions and I decided to write down what I did, maybe my grammar is misleading but I don't quite follow your reply.. I was grateful for your help and thought that as I keep asking the question, now that I know a little more, I would share, can't see what is wrong with that...

BTW>>> and if you can't think of where to start responding to my post.... surely the best thing to do is JUST IGNORE IT.. not insult it by telling me to delete it... if such a post was made earlier, then I would not have had to ask for your help in the first place.. and if that post was made, and I missed it, then surely the polite thing to do would be redirect me to it.


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## EFMax (Aug 20, 2008)

norcom said:


> So why not take the gears apart to clean/check/lube everything inside?


That will be my next step when I feel confident enough to do it, as I said, I am not an expert and this was my first venture into the hub.


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## norcom (Feb 22, 2007)

EFMax said:


> That will be my next step when I feel confident enough to do it, as I said, I am not an expert and this was my first venture into the hub.


Ah, just wondering. Thought I read somewhere that Shimano recommended to dip that whole gear assembly into their oil. Their oil is expensive but I figured if you dip it into some cheaper transmission oil it probably wouldn't hurt it. I've only got 10 miles on mine so I'm not worried yet. 

Edit:
If you haven't found it yet, here's the service manual
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus8/index.htm


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## EFMax (Aug 20, 2008)

norcom said:


> Ah, just wondering. Thought I read somewhere that Shimano recommended to dip that whole gear assembly into their oil. Their oil is expensive but I figured if you dip it into some cheaper transmission oil it probably wouldn't hurt it. I've only got 10 miles on mine so I'm not worried yet.
> 
> Edit:
> If you haven't found it yet, here's the service manual
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus8/index.htm


Thanks for the link I had not noticed that before.. I had looked at mine before and was a little confused about getting it all out, but then I had it pointed out to me, that I had not removed everything..

I guess Shimano are going to want you to buy their expensive oil but various people have said that they had used ATF and one or two people I know in the automotive trade have said that they think the Shimano stuff is just fine grade ATF.. so the ATF I used I got from a guy at works at our local Porsche place and I figured if it's good enough for them, it should be okay for me..


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## kiwial (Aug 27, 2010)

EFMax said:


> I asked for your help the other day (because I had not come across the official Shimano instructions) and you gave it and I said thank you, I then yesterday followed those instructions and I decided to write down what I did, maybe my grammar is misleading but I don't quite follow your reply.. I was grateful for your help and thought that as I keep asking the question, now that I know a little more, I would share, can't see what is wrong with that...
> 
> BTW>>> and if you can't think of where to start responding to my post.... surely the best thing to do is JUST IGNORE IT.. not insult it by telling me to delete it... if such a post was made earlier, then I would not have had to ask for your help in the first place.. and if that post was made, and I missed it, then surely the polite thing to do would be redirect me to it.


Quote: "...maybe my grammar is misleading..." -unquote
If its true that it was just your grammar (you saying 'recently' but meaning 'today' resulting in me believing you lied...and used me...etc.etc.) then we can call it a misunderstanding.
And your 'instructions' are well intentioned BUT the link to the Shimano ones are posted everywhere (on this forum, hubstripping, sheldonbrown etc.) and I cant see why you (an non-expert) would post your own instructions when the Shimano ones are known to everybody (IF you search for info first on the forum before asking or posting) and logically superior to yours. 
And since you admit not being an expert your instruction being compared to the shimano ones (experts) are..how can I put this: 'inadequate', 'misleading', or like you say yourself 'not from an expert' (please dont make me elaborate on that).
But since I believe now that you are of 'good character', 'well intentioned' and of 'sound mind' I take back my 'insults' (if one can do such a thing).
Peace Brother.


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## EFMax (Aug 20, 2008)

kiwial said:


> Quote: "...maybe my grammar is misleading..." -unquote
> If its true that it was just your grammar (you saying 'recently' but meaning 'today' resulting in me believing you lied...and used me...etc.etc.) then we can call it a misunderstanding.
> And your 'instructions' are well intentioned BUT the link to the Shimano ones are posted everywhere (on this forum, hubstripping, sheldonbrown etc.) and I cant see why you (an non-expert) would post your own instructions when the Shimano ones are known to everybody (IF you search for info first on the forum before asking or posting) and logically superior to yours.
> And since you admit not being an expert your instruction being compared to the shimano ones (experts) are..how can I put this: 'inadequate', 'misleading', or like you say yourself 'not from an expert' (please dont make me elaborate on that).
> ...


Kind words always appreciated so thank you..

One of the problems of forum policing is that an assumption is made that no previous searching has been carried out, BUT with doing searches, you first have to know the correct terms to use.. even if I use in correct English "* hub stripping *..." not hubstripping as there is no such word.. then I get brought loads of info (as shown in the link) that is not at all related to my needs.. so I assume that he information is not available.. also the word "sheldonbrown" is not a word I would instantly know about so again - (and it turns out to be someone's name) I am faced with the same problem.. so I just assumes that the info I was looking for was known but just not mentioned plus everything I did see was aimed at the Nexus not the Alfine and there are differences.. but I appreciate your help.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

I didn't remove anything from the drive side except the cog, snap-ring and casette joint. No need to remove the cones/locknuts from drive side, as per Shimano instructions:

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/con...014-downloadFile.html/07) Maintenance Oil.pdf

Then I dipped the guts in Mobil1 ATF. Didn't need to disassemble the guts, if their dirty, soak 'em in mineral spirits. With ATF the hub will shift well below -40*F.


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