# Tools you wish you had bought prior to getting them



## bank5 (May 7, 2008)

I just picked up a Park chain measuring tool (about $11) that makes measure the chain quite easy and I realized my SS is over .75%

I also have a compressor with an automatic digital inflator gun. I use it way more than I thought I would have (not just for bikes) and never use a pump anymore.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Pedro's vice whip. Used a towel and glove before. Then had a chain whip and broke that. 

Park master link pliers, makes it way easier to install/remove chains.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Strangely worded. I think you're trying to ask about tools we wish we'd bought sooner?

If so, cable cutters. Digital calipers. Pedal wrench. Bench vise. The rest I just bought as things needed replaced. If you don't have a chain whip (or vice whip), that should be near the top of the list.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

A low-entry, high-lift three-ton trolley jack.

The Park chain checker isn't very reliable by the way. Don't trust it too much.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Torque wrench.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

I've bought most of my tools as needed. In a few cases, I wish I'd bought better tools to begin with, rather than things like hex wrenches, snap-ring pliers, and dedicated sockets that were cheap. Had no idea when I bought tools for making adjustments to an inexpensive entry level bike, and doing what I thought were one-time jobs, that my next two bikes would start as bare frames, or that I'd be doing all the work most people go to a shop for myself.
Now I've replaced those cheap tools I listed with Knipex snap-ring pliers, and Park Tool sockets and hex wrenches, and everything I buy is good quality. 
Wish I'd bought a repair stand first, instead of as an afterthought, though.
That's something else I had no idea of-how much I'd use it, and how handy it would be. 
Bought a torque wrench when I got a carbon bar, and wish I'd bought that on day one, too. It also gets used more than expected, even on thru-axles to guarantee the brakes stay perfectly aligned(totally OCD about brakes).


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Tin-opener. Dinner time was a drag until someone told me about those.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Mr Pig said:


> A low-entry, high-lift three-ton trolley jack.
> 
> The Park chain checker isn't very reliable by the way. Don't trust it too much.


any chain checker recommendation?


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## matuchi (Jun 9, 2008)

mfa81 said:


> any chain checker recommendation?


I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-CN42-Chain-Indicator-Silver/dp/B00CABI1GW


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

mfa81 said:


> any chain checker recommendation?


It doesn't matter what the brand is, just how the checker actually measures.

If you look closely at your chain you will see that the rollers (in red) that actually touch the gears are free to move around on the pins (in blue). As the pins, rollers and side-plate flanges all wear and get looser the chain 'stretches'. The main area of wear that causes the chain to stretch is wear on the pins (blue) which develop groves where the side-plates and rollers rub on them.









On the bike, the gear teeth pull on the rollers in the same direction. To accurately measure the wear on the chain a chain checker has to do the same.

The Park checker pushes the rollers outwards so it is measuring the chain with one roller pushed left, the other pushed right.

The Pedros checker below uses an extra pin, number 2, to push both measuring pins in the same direction so the rollers are both pushed the same way.









Any good chain checker that works like the Pedros one will give a better reading than the Park one. I've been caught out with the Park one, which is why I bought the Pedros. I also bought a really cheap Chinese one, just to see if it was any good. Useless junk!

You can also use a steel ruler to measure the chain, which to be honest is probably better than using a chain checker!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I just use a Machinists ruler and measure the 12"


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

Mr Pig said:


> It doesn't matter what the brand is, just how the checker actually measures.
> 
> If you look closely at your chain you will see that the rollers (in red) that actually touch the gears are free to move around on the pins (in blue). As the pins, rollers and side-plate flanges all wear and get looser the chain 'stretches'. The main area of wear that causes the chain to stretch is wear on the pins (blue) which develop groves where the side-plates and rollers rub on them.
> 
> ...


interesting explanation! thanks!


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> I just use a Machinists ruler and measure the 12"


Me too. Usually I ride a chain a bit past prime and swap out the cassette with it. But some of these new cassettes are uber expensive.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Nope, I don't have the disposable income for a new cassette for every chain. While I don't use XX1 cassettes, mine still run in the $100 range.

I can't see the need to swap cassettes with every chain.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Back on topic...*

I went years before I plunged on a quality bike stand. I always saw a good bike stand as a luxury item.

I was wrong...they are a tool of necessity. One of my best investments.

Second, was the purchase of a quality Bottom Bracket tool.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> Nope, I don't have the disposable income for a new cassette for every chain. While I don't use XX1 cassettes, mine still run in the $100 range.
> 
> I can't see the need to swap cassettes with every chain.


my cassettes are typically 40-45 bucks. how long does a chain last you? i'd say 6 months on an XT chain/cassette and then I swap them out. There are always a couple gears that skip if I don't. If I was spending $100+ on cassettes I'd probably keep a closer eye on chain wear.


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## gtsum2 (Jun 28, 2017)

I’m trying to do my own maintenance and so far the most used tools I ha e picked up are a bike stand, torque wrench, non chamfered socket for the fork, bottom bracket and bearing press..and good wire nips


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ You have a good start.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

dundundata said:


> how long does a chain last you?
> 
> i'd say 6 months on an XT chain/cassette and then I swap them out. There are always a couple gears that skip if I don't.


I run three chains (XX1) in a continuous rotation of about 500 - 600 miles. On average, I think can get about 1,500 - 1600 total miles on each of the chains. That gives me 4,500 t- 4,800 miles on the cassette. That might be a good time to review my cassette.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Mr Pig said:


> It doesn't matter what the brand is, just how the checker actually measures.
> 
> If you look closely at your chain you will see that the rollers (in red) that actually touch the gears are free to move around on the pins (in blue). As the pins, rollers and side-plate flanges all wear and get looser the chain 'stretches'. The main area of wear that causes the chain to stretch is wear on the pins (blue) which develop groves where the side-plates and rollers rub on them.
> 
> ...


My Park chain checker seems to underestimate chain wear.

I just use a ruler mostly. To increase the sensitivity I measure out to 16" as that is the length of the ruler I keep most handy. It lives on the front top of my fluorescent light cover to weight it down and tilt the light away from my eyes.

Agree with tool choice I wish I'd bought earlier - the Park master link pliers.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> I run three chains (XX1) in a continuous rotation of about 500 - 600 miles. On average, I think can get about 1,500 - 1600 total miles on each of the chains. That gives me 4,500 t- 4,800 miles on the cassette. That might be a good time to review my cassette.


I apologize for the derailment of this thread (or as I call it, the natural flow of a conversation), but what does rotating chains do?

On topic, that is a nice looking BB tool. I will be ordering one of their topcap sockets. In fact this thread has inspired me to gather up some of my favorite tools and possibly some gizmos and doodads, take some pictures and describe why I have them.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Chain rotation... 

i run one chain about 500 - 600 miles. Remove and install new chain #2, go 500 or 600 miles, and repeat task again with new chain #3...you get the point.

The objective is to miimize the drive train wear by getting more miles on newer chains. 

We live in a somewhat dry and dusty so I usually wipe down the chain after every ride. Rotating the chain also gives an opportunity for a thorough cleaning, servicing.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

I am a cheapass so most my tools are on the lowend or diy.

Wished i'd gotten sooner;

Masterlink tool. Been using Sram chains for like 20 years and only a few years ago got a spreader/closer pliers, so much easier than using a standard plier to open the links.

A nice chainbreaker. My "nice" one is less than $20 but is adjustable on the bottom and top and has a fat handle and T making it easy to turn.

Digital shock pump. Put a cheap tire guage on my shock pump, so much easier to use.

Wish I have, but too cheap to buy;

One of those $300 bearing removal/press kits.

Sram pro brake bleed kit. Put my diy one together for a couple of bucks, just can't pull the trigger on a $60 one.

A TS-2.2 true stand. Only have a TS-6.

Ultimate Pro Elite bike stand. I only have the Pro and its a pita to quick release the clamp sometimes when a bike is in it.

Snap-on 1/4" digital torque wrench (if there is such a thing). I am too old and my eyes are too bad to read the faint stamping on my harborfrieght one.


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

Ratt said:


> Snap-on 1/4" digital torque wrench (if there is such a thing). I am too old and my eyes are too bad to read the faint stamping on my harborfrieght one.


https://store.snapon.com/TechAngle-...hAngle-Torque-Wrench-1-20-ft-lb--P760316.aspx

Only $436.50 online.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

dundundata said:


> On topic, that is a nice looking BB tool.


Those look great. Their sockets were $35 a pop(and $150 for a set of 5) when I looked, though. Park Tool SKT-6 was $50, so I got that instead. Besides, I might find myself sitting there staring at my sockets if I had those Abbeys!


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Miker J said:


> My Park chain checker seems to underestimate chain wear.


It can. The problem is that the way it measures is not accurate. Sometimes it's in the ball park, sometimes it's out. I fitted a new chain when the checker said .75% worn and the chain kicked.


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

First to the OP. 

The Park adjustable lost motion clicker torque driver (ATD-1.2). It is so fast and easy to torque most stuff you will actually use a torque wrench like you are supposed to. The lost motion at spec means you can keep turning and it doesn't over tighten so anyone can operate it. 

Like others have noted, my #2 is a good stand. Mine is a Feedback Pro. I did have one before, but it was a Botranger. One day while working in the garage it fell over, a common occurrence. On this occasion it toppled in such a way that it landed quite far from my work area and hit my car door and fender. I had to look at the gigantic dent in my fender for a long time before I had it repaired. The repair was way more than the cost of a good stand.

I understand the other post here warning you about the park chain wear tool. Since you already own the park one I would just use it. Mine has worked just fine for just about forever. Three of the bikes in my garage right now are part way through their third chain and the parts they touch are only now getting near replacement. I do a very minimal amount of chain maintenance, without fancy lubes or long drawn out rituals. I currently own and maintain 6 bikes for my family's fleet. I'm sure not going to buy 18 chains. My drivertrain lasts a good long time just like every rider I know that doesn't abuse their stuff. 

These types of forums seem to bring out the pedantic type behavior when chains get discussed. I often wonder if people really do all this stuff, or if they just talk about it. Most bike chains are not directional. If you want a "push the rollers apart" type of wear gauge to be more accurate swap the direction when you guess the chain might be worn some. That will spread the wear both ways on the rollers and the part of the pin they touch. 

Assuming anyone can manage to read 0.060 inches (0.5% wear) on a chain with questionable reference marks, the ruler trick ONLY shows plate wear. The roller on the pin where the cassette and ring put load can be destroyed and the ruler will tell you the chain is good. The "spread it apart tool" checks both at once, it just can't test the load side of two rollers and their respective pin contact area at once. Park claims their gauge is calibrated to compensate for the method for what it is worth.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

dundundata said:


> I will be ordering one of their topcap sockets.


Speak of topcaps...

For years I had a quality 6-point socket that I had ground the face flat and It was as good as any specialty designed tool, but I guess I just got bored with it and picked this up as a present to myself. Now, I have several of these.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

adaycj said:


> If you want a "push the rollers apart" type of wear gauge to be more accurate swap the direction when you guess the chain might be worn some. That will spread the wear both ways on the rollers and the part of the pin they touch.


The pins wear on both sides anyway as the chain-rings and cassette gears pull them in opposite directions.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

adaycj said:


> Assuming anyone can manage to read 0.060 inches (0.5% wear) on a chain with questionable reference marks, the ruler trick ONLY shows plate wear. The roller on the pin where the cassette and ring put load can be destroyed and the ruler will tell you the chain is good.


Maybe you need glasses, or better yet, a magnifying glass. The machinists ruler that I use is graduated in 1/64" increments. Easy enough to see a sixteenth of an inch (0.0625"). If this is too difficult, a quality caliper will work with even greater ease and accuracy by going pin center to pin center.

Perhaps you need to rethink the physics behind 'ruler' method and understand exactly how that works. It's a commonly accepted practice of measurement prescribed by many industrial roller chain manufacturers for determining wear beyond acceptable limits regardless of the application. This form of measurement is the industry standard and is applied to all sizes of roller chains from much smaller than bike chain, to much larger.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

^^ Annnd THIS! 

We, quite literally, put men on the Moon measuring tolerances this way. I think it works pretty damned well for measuring bike chain. :lol:


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Oh My Sack! said:


> ^^ Annnd THIS!
> 
> We, quite literally, put men on the Moon measuring tolerances this way. I think it works pretty damned well for measuring bike chain. :lol:


fake news, we all know we put men in a soundstage :crazy:


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

dundundata said:


> fake news, we all know we put men in a soundstage


With chain-driven rockets apparently.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

All of them, including park chain checkers. With a good eye a ruler might be the most accurate but IME the chain checkers are quick and reliable.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

I think I forgot a decent set of Torx wrenches. Definitely should have gotten them sooner.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

I've been a mechanic on all kinds of stuff since the early 70's. 

Worked in a bike shop in the late 70's-early 80's. During that time, I also worked on a lot of cars. Therefore, I've always seen the value of good tools and having the right ones at the right times. 

I've built a lot of wheels over the years. A good spoke tension gauge is extremely valuable. I didn't realize the value of that until the early 90's. Before then, I just pinged the spokes like a guitar string and compared tones. I do have a professional truing stand and I find that just certainly makes building wheels a lot easier. Not a requirement or necessity. 

2nd tool that I feel is invaluable is the derailleur hanger alignment tool. With the addition of more gears (and index shifting - I was riding and playing with bikes long before index shifting), this one check has solved A LOT OF problems that my friends have had.


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2018)

The derailleur hanger tool is likely next on my list. I wouldn't mind a proper stand or wheel building stand either.


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> Maybe you need glasses, or better yet, a magnifying glass. The machinists ruler that I use is graduated in 1/64" increments. Easy enough to see a sixteenth of an inch (0.0625"). If this is too difficult, a quality caliper will work with even greater ease and accuracy by going pin center to pin center.
> 
> Perhaps you need to rethink the physics behind 'ruler' method and understand exactly how that works. It's a commonly accepted practice of measurement prescribed by many industrial roller chain manufacturers for determining wear beyond acceptable limits regardless of the application. This form of measurement is the industry standard and is applied to all sizes of roller chains from much smaller than bike chain, to much larger.


I do need glasses, thank you. The commonly accepted "ruler" practice is all fine, but it does not measure the wear of the roller or the individual wear of the pin where it touches the roller. It does measure wear of the side plates and links where they touch the pins. They wear too and this may be an acceptable way to determine the wear.

I have seen chains (even bicycle ones) where the rollers were shot, sometimes even gone, and the side plates were still under 5% elongation, let alone the 1.5% that is mostly used as a "industry standard". But I'm sure you knew that and just forgot to mention it.

http://tsubaki.ca/pdf/library/Revised-Tsubaki-Drive-Chain-Catalog.pdf

This document explains the "industry standard" as I know it. Page 165 explains the wear specs (very different from bikes). Page 167 show the measurement process. I'll quote from both.

"Chain elongation is caused not by deformation of the link plate, but by wear on the pin and bush.Therefore, the remaining chain life can be estimated by periodically measuring the chain elongation."

AND

"Measure the distance of the inside (L1) and outside (L2) of the rollers at both ends of
the measured links using a vernier to get a measurement (L)"

In the original post a simple cheap chain tool has already been purchased that is intended to be used specifically on bicycle chains. It doesn't measure everything in every way either, but assuming it isn't defective (made to long or short) it is a perfectly acceptable tool. Use a ruler if you want. But the sky is not falling if someone uses the Park tool.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Just give up on this chain measuring nonsense. If you don't like it, don't do it. Bottom line, it works (unless you're part bat, in which case stay in your cave).


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Forster said:


> The derailleur hanger tool is likely next on my list. I wouldn't mind a proper stand or wheel building stand either.


Just picked up a Park Tool DAG2.2...found hangar out of whack on my new Kona. 
Trued it up but unfortunately, this only confirmed that the stick I pulled into rear derailleur has twisted it and I need to drop $100 for a new GX12 SRAM derailleur.


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2018)

sturge said:


> Just picked up a Park Tool DAG2.2...found hangar out of whack on my new Kona.
> Trued it up but unfortunately, this only confirmed that the stick I pulled into rear derailleur has twisted it and I need to drop $100 for a new GX12 SRAM derailleur.


Sadly, the more you ride and the more stuff you know how to check, the more you end up replacing. I remember riding with a guy a two years ago whose chain fell apart twice on a 25 mile Rails to Trails section. The bike was a 30 year old Centurion undoubtedly on it's first chain/cassette/chainring set. He was actually debating whether or not he should replace the chain (keep in mind the chain literally pulled apart from wear). The second time it broke and we took out links to repair it, he conceded that it may be time (since he couldn't use the large chainring and could only use the smaller half of the cassette.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

sturge said:


> Just picked up a Park Tool DAG2.2...found hangar out of whack on my new Kona.


I'm about to get one of those. Guy brought an 11-speed road-bike round last week, not shifting properly. Bent hanger. Managed without the tool up until now, just eyeballed it, but relented. Should make the job easier.

Incidentally, another issue is that the spring on the derailleur is shot. It's too stretched/weak to pull the derailleur fully closed so it won't shift onto the top gear. What surprises me is that this is a one-year old Shimano Ultegra! Pretty crap. Ancient Shimano Derailleurs usually still work perfectly.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Of note regarding the Park Tool derailleur alignment tool, I borrowed one from a friend a week ago. He has had it for years. Discovered the cylindrical 'boss' that holds threaded rod is too thick (dia too big). Can't be used on my Kona, interference between boss diameter and swingarm in area of dropout make's it impossible to screw into hangar. The 'DAG2.2' model has a smaller diameter boss.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

sturge said:


> Discovered the cylindrical 'boss' that holds threaded rod is too thick (dia too big).


Maybe take it off and get it machined down?


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Possible but it's my buddies tool...if it were mine I would try it! Now have my very own 'newer model' tool ($70).


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

come on fellas don't tell me i need a dagnabbit dag tool now! I have never used one but have never had unsolvable shifting issues. did break a couple hangers.

i just ordered one of those shiny green abbey sockets. check out this badboy derailleur tool.
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools/products/hag

hag lol


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

dundundata said:


> come on fellas don't tell me i need a dagnabbit dag tool now! I have never used one but have never had unsolvable shifting issues.


I've managed fine without one but this bike I'll be fixing, I know the hanger is bent. I took it off and tried to straighten it up in the vice but you'll never be exact that way. Usually I just buy a new hanger but at £15 a pop, it only takes a few to justify the tool.

Hangers getting bent is very common, I see it a lot. If it's just one bike you're dealing with I think the tool is a bit hard to justify but I deal with a lot of bikes.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> I've managed fine without one but this bike I'll be fixing, I know the hanger is bent. I took it off and tried to straighten it up in the vice but you'll never be exact that way. Usually I just buy a new hanger but at £15 a pop, it only takes a few to justify the tool.
> 
> Hangers getting bent is very common, I see it a lot. If it's just one bike you're dealing with I think the tool is a bit hard to justify but I deal with a lot of bikes.


After getting the tool most people discover that even new hangers are rarely perfectly aligned, starting with a perfectly square derailleur hanger can simplify adjustments immensely.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> After getting the tool most people discover that even new hangers are rarely perfectly aligned...


I've heard that, but I've yet to test the difference slight misalignment makes.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

I've only used my DAG 2.2 a few times, and only made minor adjustments, even to a hanger I'd previously trued up by eyeball with straight edges and a crescent wrench. I can't say I've noticed any difference in shifting as a result, but suppose that goes back to the adjustments being minor.
Maybe kind of silly, but I get a sense of satisfaction from using it and knowing everything's "right", even if it's been more of an exercise in bike OCDness than a practical thing, so far.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

i totally get that. watching the park video on youtube and he smashes the bike with a rock


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

OwenM said:


> Maybe kind of silly, but I get a sense of satisfaction from using it and knowing everything's "right"...


Let's face it, any excuse to buy new tools eh? ;0)


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> I've heard that, but I've yet to test the difference slight misalignment makes.


I don't know if you can really test it but I figure the straighter the better. It's good practice anytime but I think it's especially important for less experienced mechanics because you don't want to be wasting time and money trying this, that and the other thing trying to chase down a shifting issue that may have easily been avoided.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

a quality Park chain breaker. Once I bought it I could not believe how easy it is to break chains. shimano chains and rivets. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> Let's face it, any excuse to buy new tools eh? ;0)


Well, yeah. Tinkering with the bike is a hobby unto itself for me.
Besides, I hate gears and shifting, so when I've got 'em on there, I want them set up as well as they possibly can be.

Really, though, when you jack up a RD and have to replace it(which I did last fall)...there it is. You screw on the tool before mounting the new RD, and then you don't have to wonder about whether the hanger is ok, just because it isn't visibly bent, or find out the hard way that it isn't.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

sturge said:


> Of note regarding the Park Tool derailleur alignment tool, I borrowed one from a friend a week ago. He has had it for years. Discovered the cylindrical 'boss' that holds threaded rod is too thick (dia too big). Can't be used on my Kona, interference between boss diameter and swingarm in area of dropout make's it impossible to screw into hangar. The 'DAG2.2' model has a smaller diameter boss.


I have the original one. I faced the same problem you did. so I took my tool apart and machined it down so it wouldn't be an issue. Of course, I already owned tool so figured no sense in buying a "new one". Yes, the 2.2 solves that problem.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

OwenM said:


> I've only used my DAG 2.2 a few times, and only made minor adjustments, even to a hanger I'd previously trued up by eyeball with straight edges and a crescent wrench. I can't say I've noticed any difference in shifting as a result, but suppose that goes back to the adjustments being minor.
> Maybe kind of silly, but I get a sense of satisfaction from using it and knowing everything's "right", even if it's been more of an exercise in bike OCDness than a practical thing, so far.


So I've been using mine for years. Many friends come to me and have shifting problems. There are a number of things that can cause this. However, all the adjustments in the world aren't going to fix it if the hanger is bent. I too used to do the eyeball method. Using the tool just takes the one, biggest issues out and moving forward.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

I am a cheapass and bought a Dag right away so that I could re-use bent hanger. But its best use is to diagnose shifting problems and lets you check one possibility off the list.

Just perused, not read, all the chain checker talk, but wondering how you all cut chains to length? I usually lay the old one on the garage floor next to the new one, line the pins up, and cut. Almost always makes me go dang. The difference in length between the 2 chains is apparent right away and matches what the CC2 said. Maybe just use a new chain as a chain checker.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

So I got the DAG 2.2 hanger tool today and fixed the bike in question this afternoon. 

I had already removed this hanger and straightened it by eye as well as I could, bend it in the vice, check it with the edge of a steel ruler. On the bike it looked fine. 

Checked it with the hanger tool and it showed a deviation of about 13mm at the rim. Is that significant? I can't say one-hundred percent as a new derailleur was fitted at the same time but it being correct has to help.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

By the way, I feckin hate internal routing! Getting the new cable in added about an hour onto the job...


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> Checked it with the hanger tool and it showed a deviation of about 13mm at the rim. Is that significant?


So did you straighten it out with the tool? 13mm is significant enough to negatively effect derailleur adjustments IME. Lot's of new bikes are off that much though and roll off the floor that way.

I hear you on the internal cables but how bad they are depends on design, I was prepared for a nightmare cable replacement on my new bike and was pleasantly surprised to discover it was a 5 minute job.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I'm with C2L, but I use a 24" steel ruler and change my chain out when it reaches 1/16" stretch over those 24" - _that's basically just shy of the space between the pin and end of the link size wise_. I typically get maybe 3 or 4 chains, sometimes more from an XT cassette. Those numbers are from 9spd days, only been on 10spd since 2016 summerish and haven't changed the cassette yet, have changed 2 chains AFAIR.



dundundata said:


> my cassettes are typically 40-45 bucks. how long does a chain last you? i'd say 6 months on an XT chain/cassette and then I swap them out. There are always a couple gears that skip if I don't. If I was spending $100+ on cassettes I'd probably keep a closer eye on chain wear.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Yes, used the tool as a lever. Worked well, did not require much effort to pull it straight.

The routing on this bike was not good. It's a titanium frame/bike made by a company called Dolan: LINK At the top of the down-tube and at the back of the chain-stay there are alloy cable stops that screw in place. Once removed the hole is a good size.

However, at the bottom bracket the cable exits the down-tube, goes through a conventional plastic cable guide and goes into the front of the chain-stay. And those holes in the down-tube and chain-stay are tiny! Too small to get my magnetic cable puller through. Too small to get two cables taped together through! What a pain. Eventually I got a tiny plastic tube and superglue the two cable ends into it. Even that took a few goes before managing to get the cable through the hole without pulling out of the tube.

I'm saying an hour but it was probably more than that, because I had to do it twice! The guy bought new Shimano gear cables, despite me saying I had loads, and I found out a new thing. Usually, when you buy a gear cable set the two cables in the set are the same length, long enough to do either derailleur. Not this time! :0( One of the cables was shorter, and guess which one I lifted and put into the frame?...


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> I'm saying an hour but it was probably more than that, because I had to do it twice! The guy bought new Shimano gear cables, despite me saying I had loads, and I found out a new thing. Usually, when you buy a gear cable set the two cables in the set are the same length, long enough to do either derailleur. Not this time! :0( One of the cables was shorter, and guess which one I lifted and put into the frame?...


Doh! All the cable sets I've seen come with front/rear (long/short) cables.

I give trek kudos for good internal cable design, at least on my bike. A giant cutout on the bb makes changes snappy.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> Doh! All the cable sets I've seen come with front/rear (long/short) cables.


Really? I have bulk cable reels so it's not something I buy often but the ones I have bought have been two the same length. Odd.

The cables I can deal with. What really pisses me off is having to drain, bleed a brake to change a rear hydraulic brake. A ten-minute job becomes an hour-plus. Not fecking impressed.


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

FWIW, the last set of Shimano shifters I bought came with two different lengths as well.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Mr Pig said:


> Really? I have bulk cable reels so it's not something I buy often but the ones I have bought have been two the same length. Odd.


Yeah, all the sets we ever sold were different lengths no matter what the brand. Bulk cables always came in long lengths.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Mr Pig said:


> The Park chain checker isn't very reliable by the way. Don't trust it too much.


Agreed. I just use a micrometer that I already owned.

Pedro's cassette pliers are definitely next on my list.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I dreaded internal routing, too, but got 2 new bikes later last year, one on warranty, and was pleasantly surprised with how easy it is with Knolly or Santa Cruz. I like the Knolly design more, as the port windows also cover up the holes, but SC is user friendly, too. it depends on the design. 


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> Really? I have bulk cable reels so it's not something I buy often but the ones I have bought have been two the same length. Odd.
> 
> The cables I can deal with. What really pisses me off is having to drain, bleed a brake to change a rear hydraulic brake. A ten-minute job becomes an hour-plus. Not fecking impressed.


You may still need a bleed, but add this to your tools for hydro hose changes. Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector - it's tiny, but worth its weight in gold (it only weighs a few grams, but still...).


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Speaking of fittings and such.







Charger damper bleed fitting, along with the Park socket set, is something I should have purchased immediately, along with the different weight suspension oil that I did get, upon buying a fork that required it.
It can be hard buying stuff that adds to the initial cost of a component you're already dropping hundreds of dollars on, but we know we gotta have it.
I need to read up on my shock, and whatever will be needed to service it, ahead of time, too...


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

noapathy said:


> You may still need a bleed, but add this to your tools for hydro hose changes. Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector - it's tiny, but worth its weight in gold (it only weighs a few grams, but still...).
> 
> View attachment 1181371


That's not the problem, it's having to remove the hose from the calliper, cut the barb off so you can attach the hose to the pull-through, get the hose through then refit the calliper and bleed the brake. It's ridiculous when external cabling lets you fit a fully working brake in ten-minutes.

Plus you have the brake that came off to nail back together and bleed too....


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

But those aerodynamics...


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> That's not the problem, it's having to remove the hose from the calliper, cut the barb off so you can attach the hose to the pull-through, get the hose through then refit the calliper and bleed the brake. It's ridiculous when external cabling lets you fit a fully working brake in ten-minutes.
> 
> Plus you have the brake that came off to nail back together and bleed too....


I understand. I still remember the hassle (there was much swearing under breath) of trying to get an internal dropper line to go around the corner at the bottom bracket.

Also of note, I really dislike press-fit BBs, but I hesitate to suggest adding BB tools to the list with so many changing standards these days. Good thing SRAM just added another one. :arf:


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## mrobonline (Dec 22, 2017)

Park DH-1 Dummy Hub . . . so simple, but so nice to have. Use it weekly. A year ago, I never realized it existed.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

mrobonline said:


> Park DH-1 Dummy Hub . . . so simple, but so nice to have. Use it weekly. A year ago, I never realized it existed.


HA! This is the first I have seen that. I'm all over that!!


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## mrobonline (Dec 22, 2017)

Oh My Sack! said:


> HA! This is the first I have seen that. I'm all over that!!


I know . . . sometimes it's the simple things. I have at least one of my bikes on the stand without wheels weekly and this little gem just makes life a bit easier.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

This is one of my favorite tools. The extra leverage is nice when removing pedals and cranks. It's 18" long, and the head angle is adjustable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-8-in-Drive-Quick-Release-Flexible-Head-Ratchet/3381184


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

mrobonline said:


> Park DH-1 Dummy Hub . .


I assume it only works on QR?



coke said:


> This is one of my favorite tools. The extra leverage is nice when removing pedals and cranks.


I have a long bar and yip, it's ideal for the big, tight stuff. Not a floppy head though, I find those annoying.


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## parktool (Jun 27, 2017)

The Park Tool dummy hub works on QR and on thru axles. The "sleeper cog" comes off and has a 12mm ID which you can put your thru axle thru and use it on your thru axle bike. I might be bias but its one of my favorite tools as it allows for shifting while the wheel is off so it is easier to clean hard to reach places and lube hard to reach pivot locations and to be able to scrape grease off the backside of the jockey wheels easily.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I like the Park handlebar holder hbh2. Simple and keeps the bars from flopping around.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

dundundata said:


> come on fellas don't tell me i need a dagnabbit dag tool now! I have never used one but have never had unsolvable shifting issues. did break a couple hangers.
> 
> i just ordered one of those shiny green abbey sockets. check out this badboy derailleur tool.
> https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools/products/hag
> ...


I have this Abbey HAG, had to convince myself to buy one but got a good price on black friday com cc. it's a piece of art! amazing quality and craftsmanship!


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## phalkon30 (Jan 17, 2009)

mrobonline said:


> Park DH-1 Dummy Hub . . . so simple, but so nice to have. Use it weekly. A year ago, I never realized it existed.


Interesting idea. With a thru axle, couldn't you just insert the axle and use that as a dummy pulley? If worried about wear... Slip a pvc pipe over the axle?

I mean it's only $20, so no biggy, just trying to understand.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

New favorite tool lol.










As an adventurous self-taught mechanic I love this thread!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Perhaps we can discuss the merits of using the grey electrical PVC vs. the white schedule 40 PVC?

I have been using PVC over my thru axle for years. Kinda makes it hard to consider buying anything over $2 that works great.


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

PurpleMtnSlayer said:


> New favorite tool lol.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How wide are your dropouts???? Looks too long ;-)

(That's what she said)


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Sparkman999 said:


> How wide are your dropouts???? Looks too long ;-)


That's why we have hacksaws.

Leave this delicate task to the professionals.


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## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

Something doesn't look right....



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## LuckyCharm4x4 (Dec 16, 2011)

mrobonline said:


> Park DH-1 Dummy Hub . . . so simple, but so nice to have. Use it weekly. A year ago, I never realized it existed.


Seth has a hack for that (it's at 2:10 if you're impatient):


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Just another favorite tool...*

It's really a scraper with a screwdriver handle, but I find myself using this regularly to spread brake pads. Nice and thin, broad surface that slips into pads on the caliper to expand them.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

oh and there just happens to be the hag tool sitting right there 

I have the Park pad separator, definitely a useful tool.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

dundundata said:


> I have the Park pad separator, definitely a useful tool.


Or, you could buy a set of car trim tools which will do the same thing, are massively cheaper and, unlike the Park tool, have other uses. I bought a set years ago on eBay for about £2 and, as well as using them on cars, they've come in very handy for other things.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Those look like a good deal.

I have a good collection of specialty tools for designed for other uses that I am always eyeing to see where they can be used in bike applications. I have a set of the auto trim tools that I have found other good uses for, but not necessarily bike applications.

This is a favorite trim tool that I use for all kinds of other applications, but none on a bike, except, I guess, for a pad spreader.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Cleared2land said:


> This is a favorite trim tool that I use for all kinds of other applications...


I have a tool very like that and yip, I've found lots of uses for it too. I have a tool bag and tools that get used often enough end up living in it, and that tool is in there.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

Mr Pig said:


> Or, you could buy a set of car trim tools which will do the same thing, are massively cheaper and, unlike the Park tool, have other uses. I bought a set years ago on eBay for about £2 and, as well as using them on cars, they've come in very handy for other things.
> 
> View attachment 1182467


Thanks for the tip. I generally keep my trim tools in a ziplock bag to keep them clean for the interior of the car. They are so cheap I will get a smaller 2nd "dirty" set for the bike.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

dundundata said:


> oh and there just happens to be the hag tool sitting right there
> 
> I have the Park pad separator, definitely a useful tool.


Yeah, the Abby hanger alignment tool is really nice, but not used very often. Nice to have when you need it. I just completed a new frame up build for my wife and checked the new machined Santa Cruz hanger and it was spot on.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I don't have a car so used some of the thousands saved and put it towards the Park


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

dundundata said:


> I don't have a car so used some of the thousands saved and put it towards the Park


We only have one car when we could have two. Wins a lot of bike funding arguments.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Fortunately, my wife spends more on bike stuff than I do, so the bike funding discussions go pretty easy for me.


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

Hanger alignment tool, no competition. I wish I'd bought a better quality one though as mine has a bit of slack in it that has to be allowed for. Might have to invest in a Park.

How are people getting on with aligning the hard-as-nails hangers that seem to be the default these days? I'm down to my last soft alloy hanger for my old Marin and sources of the OEM part have dried up. When that finally breaks (as it surely will) then I'll have to fit an aircraft alloy grade pattern hanger, and I'm dreading having to bend one of those into alignment.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^ I've been very pleased with the Abby hanger alignment tool. It's stout enough that 'tweeking' a hanger has never been a problem. It's a really nice tool I wish I could use more often, but pleased that I don't have to.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*New use for an old grip*


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## Wacha Wacha Wacha (Sep 27, 2017)

I have loads of those tools and agree they are awesome... but I’d say the best tool in the box, is the box. I bought a big tool box on wheels to store everything. Has a huge space underneath to store parts, cables, fluids, etc... 

After all, who doesn’t love a perfect box...


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)




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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

LarryFahn said:


> View attachment 1185837


A measuring cylinder that sticks to walls?


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

Grassington said:


> Hanger alignment tool, no competition. I wish I'd bought a better quality one though as mine has a bit of slack in it that has to be allowed for. Might have to invest in a Park.
> 
> How are people getting on with aligning the hard-as-nails hangers that seem to be the default these days? I'm down to my last soft alloy hanger for my old Marin and sources of the OEM part have dried up. When that finally breaks (as it surely will) then I'll have to fit an aircraft alloy grade pattern hanger, and I'm dreading having to bend one of those into alignment.


Just anneal the new one with a torch to reduce the hardness.


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

Grassington said:


> Hanger alignment tool, no competition. I wish I'd bought a better quality one though as mine has a bit of slack in it that has to be allowed for. Might have to invest in a Park.
> 
> How are people getting on with aligning the hard-as-nails hangers that seem to be the default these days? I'm down to my last soft alloy hanger for my old Marin and sources of the OEM part have dried up. When that finally breaks (as it surely will) then I'll have to fit an aircraft alloy grade pattern hanger, and I'm dreading having to bend one of those into alignment.


New, old, steel, or fancy aluminum alloy ... no problem bending them with just palm pressure on a bike stand with the park tool. I've heard putting the bike on the ground with a person sitting on the seat can help, but I've never needed it.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

Mr Pig said:


> A measuring cylinder that sticks to walls?


Yep. In the pic, you can see the blue float fluid is held back too. It has an "auto pour" feature!


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

The graduated cylinder is a must have


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## WLB (Apr 25, 2011)

Star fangled nut setting tool & steerer tube cutting guide. Don't have either, have cut several fork steerers with Home Depot tubing cutter, but tempted to get one. Or, I may try using a couple of the old stems I have lying around as a cutting guide. Getting star fangled nuts driven straight can be hit or miss, so I'm considering getting one before I cut the steerer to final length on my fork


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I have never bought either a Star Nut driver or a Steerer Tube cutting guide. 

I have cut around dozen forks using two stainless hose clamps as a blade guide with complete success.

And the Star Nut driver has been an appropriately sized socket with a bolt through it and the Star Nut attached to the bolt. Just drive it home and you're done. This one is so simple and easy. Mark the desired depth of the Star Nut on the socket with a Sharpie.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ yeah, but the job-specific tools make it faster and easier. I like the Pedros star nut driver with its guide sleeve. I also like the Park SG-7.2 cutting guide as you can clamp the lower tab in a vise and it conveniently and securely holds the fork or seat post for cutting.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Lone Rager said:


> ^^^ yeah, but the job-specific tools make it faster and easier.


x2^

you can make do without any dedicated tools but once you have them it's hard to go back to hacking, for me anyway.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I agree with you both. I am a proponent of nice, specialty tools; I have purchased my share of them.

Here's my hack fork holder that is a drilled and split 2x4 with an inlaid 1/8" stretch cord. Place on fork steer tube and clamp in vice. It works like a charm.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I have always used a pipe cutter, not sure how they work on carbon steerer. Starnuts can be tricky diy.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

dundundata said:


> I have always used a pipe cutter, not sure how they work on carbon steerer.


They won't.

I've put star-nuts in by hand but it's not easy. Relented and bought a tool recently.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

I made my own star nut setter 10 years ago when One point five was becoming something, so I made the bottom bigger than an 1 1/8" one. It's the thing on the left.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

LarryFahn said:


> I made my own star nut setter 10 years ago...


That is very cool! I thought about making one, but they cost less than a Chinese takeaway.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Getting my own CNC mill was something I wish I had done about 4 years ago. Learning curve is steep for sure but it's nice to be able to tweek and tune prototypes and small batch parts until everything is dialed. More of a tool than a machine but the same applies.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

CNC mill? Quaintly primitive. You want additive manufacturing.


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## twodownzero (Dec 27, 2017)

Cleared2land said:


> I have never bought either a Star Nut driver or a Steerer Tube cutting guide.
> 
> I have cut around dozen forks using two stainless hose clamps as a blade guide with complete success.
> 
> And the Star Nut driver has been an appropriately sized socket with a bolt through it and the Star Nut attached to the bolt. Just drive it home and you're done. This one is so simple and easy. Mark the desired depth of the Star Nut on the socket with a Sharpie.


Cut a steerer tube yesterday with a tubing cutter and used a socket to drive the star fangled nut in.

I ended up using a flap disc on the grinder to take a little more off the steerer. The star nut went in okay.

Next time having the right tools would be nice, though.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Some are not bound by disposable income and are at liberty to spend on tools that are not used with regularity. 

Given that I have some boundaries on disposable income, I elect to choose what high-end specialty tools that I use on a more regular basis over those tools that are used rarely. This of course is bound by options of a given alternative tool availability.

For me personally, cutting steerer tubes and setting star nuts just isn't done with significant regularity, but I will challenge anyone on the level of quality of the finished product with my 'hack tools'. I spent 5 more minutes to accomplish the same task of equivalent quality for a fraction of the cost and with those tools that I have readily available. 

Many folks getting into this selected venue simply don't have the money to invest in high-end tools that they might use on a very limited occasion. Some tools to accomplish the task have other options, some do not. If not, then I always buy the required tool to accomplish the given task.

There is no doubt that these specialty tools make the task easier, but they can often be equally accomplished (with equal quality) by other means given some elementary mechanical aptitude. I have a significant investment in specialty tools. 

I never compromise on spending money on a quality tool when I can justify its expense and existence.

There's a difference in being a hack, and find equal quality by an alternative means of compliance.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Lone Rager said:


> CNC mill? Quaintly primitive. You want additive manufacturing.


The only people that think additive manufacturing is going to take over manufacturing are the people who work sitting at desks and not in shops. 3d printing is pretty damn cool but it lacks the precision, speed, material flexibility and finished quality of the machines that have been around for 50 years. Maybe it'll get there some day but I'm not holding my breath.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^horse and buggy thinking. 

(actually, I agree. I'm being facetious.)


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

I wish I would have ̶m̶a̶d̶e̶ hacked these a long time ago!


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

customfab said:


> Getting my own CNC mill was something I wish I had done about 4 years ago. Learning curve is steep for sure but it's nice to be able to tweek and tune prototypes and small batch parts until everything is dialed. More of a tool than a machine but the same applies.


I've always dreamed of owning a mini metal lathe/mill but a lifetime renter/apartment dweller and poor. Had to settle on a $150 3d printer.


customfab said:


> The only people that think additive manufacturing is going to take over manufacturing are the people who work sitting at desks and not in shops. 3d printing is pretty damn cool but it lacks the precision, speed, material flexibility and finished quality of the machines that have been around for 50 years. Maybe it'll get there some day but I'm not holding my breath.


Yes I think you are right. Takes me about 4-5 hours to print out a bashguard and the consumer side is NOT plug and play. But the prices on materials has fallen and more materials are being developed for fdm. Boeing is using 3d printed part in their engines that can't be done with edm and Porsche is planning or is currently making retro parts with a 3d printer.


LarryFahn said:


> View attachment 1185837


If you need precise fluid levels, a graduated cylinder is a must have. I bought a plastic set like 5 years ago and only used once. Still using my 20 yr old Mixmizer. Its easier to clean and has a narrow pour spout built in. All my other syringe's rubber plungers eventually break down but the plastic on the mixmizer keeps on ticking.


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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

Park spoke tensionometer.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

VegasSingleSpeed said:


> Park spoke tensionometer.


Totally. It's pretty inexpensive for the peace of mind to know my builds are balanced and right at max tension.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

WLB said:


> Star fangled nut setting tool & steerer tube cutting guide. Don't have either, have cut several fork steerers with Home Depot tubing cutter, but tempted to get one. Or, I may try using a couple of the old stems I have lying around as a cutting guide. Getting star fangled nuts driven straight can be hit or miss, so I'm considering getting one before I cut the steerer to final length on my fork


Inexpensive and well worth having, IMO. I got the Birzmann(sp?) guide and Jenson's house brand star nut setter as less expensive alternatives to something like Park, and they make things quick and easy.


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## wvtrailbiker (Jan 24, 2008)

Pretty much every abby tool...the crombie got me hooked on the company, the hag is the perfect hanger alignment tool and the headset press is unbelievably smooth it took me a few uses to trust that it seated the bearings and cups with that little force. After using a few different spoke tension gauges over the years my fsa is another favorite. Got to add beta 951s in there too.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Perhaps we need a 'Tool Whore' thread?

Quality, specialty tool addiction can be a demanding and unforgiving mistress.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Cable cutters, hanger tool, and spoke tension gauge (just because building my first wheel was quite satisfying.)


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Has anyone ever seen or used the Park powerlift shop stand?
https://www.parktool.com/product/power-lift-shop-stand-prs-33?category=Shop


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## Steve-XtC (Feb 7, 2016)

Cleared2land said:


> I agree with you both. I am a proponent of nice, specialty tools; I have purchased my share of them.
> 
> Here's my hack fork holder that is a drilled and split 2x4 with an inlaid 1/8" stretch cord. Place on fork steer tube and clamp in vice. It works like a charm.
> 
> ...


LOL I have a seatpost clamp the same for clamping the reverb dropper in a vice to service.

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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

This was before I made the blade kerf and installed the stretch cord.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

wvtrailbiker said:


> Pretty much every abby tool...the crombie got me hooked on the company, the hag is the perfect hanger alignment tool and the headset press is unbelievably smooth it took me a few uses to trust that it seated the bearings and cups with that little force. After using a few different spoke tension gauges over the years my fsa is another favorite. Got to add beta 951s in there too.


Thanks for the support!

You don't realize how much of the effort to press bearings in is related to the friction of the press until there's a monster thrust bearing in there to remove it all. That's why we are able to offer a hand-less version that works every bit as well.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I guess I can now officially add a tool to this thread. 

Park DAG-2.2

Yes, you THOUGHT your rear derailleur was in proper alignment. I'm making a bet that unless you've gone through the steps with a DAG or equivalent, it's NOT!

My brand new Karate Monkey that I just put XTR 1x11 on just didn't feel or sound quite right or to my expectation. The new models are back to frame integral, steel hangers. After a couple-a-few years of threatening to, I finally bought the DAG 2.2 last week and chucked it up on the Monkey. Park's suggested margin is <3mm. I was over 1/2" out! It's a wonder things weren't sounding quiet or running as smoithly as they should have been. 

I checked my '17 Stumpy Expert with a new hanger. Same thing! After corrections were made and adjustments done, everybody is smooooth, quiet, and happy. 

I highly recommend! 


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Not that exciting, but I do love my oil syringe.

Bstean 100ml Large Plastic-Steel Syringe Pump with 150cm/59inch Tubing and Matching Cap for Oil Liquid Injection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYIMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YM.1AbRGBKQTN

Way better than those ones with the rubber plunger.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^ I have a pair like that one but smaller. Very nice.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

customfab said:


> Thanks for the support!
> 
> You don't realize how much of the effort to press bearings in is related to the friction of the press until there's a monster thrust bearing in there to remove it all. That's why we are able to offer a hand-less version that works every bit as well.


what can you tell us about the chain tool you guys were showing on instagram the other day?

when should expect it to come to life?

btw, I'm with others here once you buy Abbey tools you don't go back unless you don't make the tool!


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

not sure if this would be really useful but the idea seems interesting, does anybody make such tool? basically an axle you can hold on a vise to hold your weel, not sure how the manage to account for the different axle diameters, I think it's an axle holder of some sort that holds the axle in the vise and you gotta have at least a 15 and 12mm axles

saw these on one of the bkxc youtube videos


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

I saw that too and immediately wanted one. For changing tires/refreshing tubless/mounting tubeless it seems like it would be ideal.


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

mfa81 said:


> not sure if this would be really useful but the idea seems interesting, does anybody make such tool? basically an axle you can hold on a vise to hold your weel, not sure how the manage to account for the different axle diameters, I think it's an axle holder of some sort that holds the axle in the vise and you gotta have at least a 15 and 12mm axles
> 
> saw these on one of the bkxc youtube videos


Wooden dowel rod from the depot of homes, cheap and wont damage your wheels.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ ChaChing! 

Bingo on a simple and elementary, yet easy idea!


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

the nice thing about this is the threaded axle so you can actually secure the wheel, seems to also have some plasticish washers to avoid any danage to your hubs, it’s a pretty nice wheel support/stand


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

mfa81 said:


> not sure if this would be really useful but the idea seems interesting, does anybody make such tool?[/QUOTE]
> 
> I can't envision what I would use it for.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

J.B. Weld said:


> I can't envision what I would use it for.


Same.

For tire install and removal, with a tight bead, laying the wheel flat on the top of a round trash gives you something to push against. I saw it in the cushcore install video. It made installing cushcore pretty easy. It's also helped me hold the wheel nicely flat for driver rebuilds and cassette installs. Not sure why you would need to hold a wheel vertically outside of a truing situation?


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## ctxcrossx (Jan 13, 2004)

mfa81 said:


> not sure if this would be really useful but the idea seems interesting, does anybody make such tool? basically an axle you can hold on a vise to hold your weel, not sure how the manage to account for the different axle diameters, I think it's an axle holder of some sort that holds the axle in the vise and you gotta have at least a 15 and 12mm axles
> 
> saw these on one of the bkxc youtube videos


Well, there's this...

https://www.parktool.com/product/axle-vise-av-1

I have a similar one, not sure if it's an older version of Park or another company, but it's much more robust and aesthetically pleasing, although functionally similar. Is great to hold a wheel in a vice.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

ctxcrossx said:


> Well, there's this...


Good for adjusting bearings on old cup and cone hubs but that wouldn't be much use on modern wheels with thru-axles.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

*Ergon TP1 Shimano SPD Cleat Tool*

Ergon TP1 Shimano SPD Cleat Tool
amazing to get your cleats perfectly dialed. Should have bought this years ago.


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## bdaghisallo (Jan 10, 2006)

dundundata said:


> Has anyone ever seen or used the Park powerlift shop stand?
> https://www.parktool.com/product/power-lift-shop-stand-prs-33?category=Shop


Looks like a take on the EVT workstand.

https://www.efficientvelo.com/product/adjustable-height-repair-stand/


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

You know what it is! 
LBS sold me one for $1.50, but I had to make a 40min round-trip drive for it on my first Shimano to Shimano crank swap a few weeks ago after it felt like my pliers would gouge up the whatchamacallit.

PITA...


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

OwenM said:


> LBS sold me one for $1.50, but I had to make a 40min round-trip drive for it..


Postal service?


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## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

OwenM said:


> View attachment 1212136
> 
> 
> You know what it is!
> ...


I thought I lost mine a couple of months ago... until I remembered it was attached to my bottom bracket tool...:madman:


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## Guest (Aug 14, 2018)

bvibert said:


> I thought I lost mine a couple of months ago... until I remembered it was attached to my bottom bracket tool...:madman:


 I have that same tool, but the crankset that needed the plastic part needed a different crank tool. I'm convinced that means I'll own another bike someday. I've yet to pick-up a tool I don't have a use for at some point. My father-in-law moved into assisted living a few years back and my wife kept his planes and chisels even though I'm the king of powertools when it comes to wood work. She wanted me to refit the wooden handles so our son could use them someday. So they sat in a drawer for 5 years. Then my father-in-law passes and we decide to build a flag case for his internment flag so my sister-in-law can display it. Guess what tools I needed for that project. It's Karma.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

bvibert said:


> I thought I lost mine a couple of months ago... until I remembered it was attached to my bottom bracket tool...


Ha ha, I've done the same thing! You do feel like an idiot, I was about to buy another one.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

bvibert said:


> I thought I lost mine a couple of months ago... until I remembered it was attached to my bottom bracket tool...:madman:


Ho-lee crap. And you know I've wondered what that thing was for when using the wrench on my GXP BBs. 
So I have two...


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

mfa81 said:


> not sure if this would be really useful but the idea seems interesting, does anybody make such tool? basically an axle you can hold on a vise to hold your weel, not sure how the manage to account for the different axle diameters, I think it's an axle holder of some sort that holds the axle in the vise and you gotta have at least a 15 and 12mm axles
> 
> saw these on one of the bkxc youtube videos


I just clamp a big phillips screwdriver in my bike stand clamp by its handle, and slide the thru axle over it. Angle it back a little bit and spin away. Just be careful when you have a spinning, studded fatbike wheel in there - those carbide tips will grind away flesh. Never had an issue with the driver shaft being undersized, nor felt the need to make it a tight fit to the diameter of the thru axle.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

KMC masterlink pliers
Bike stand
Metric L shaped Hex wrenches with ball end.
Massive 1" or 3/8" Park BB socket tool
Valve Core removal tool
Tools to drop the lowers on my FOX 36s/40
Quality tools that can be used on bikes rather than bike specific tools. Bought a Park AK tool kit close to a decade ago. Honestly don't know how many of them I actually use now. Might have to pass that box on to my dad.


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## Desert City MTB (May 30, 2018)

Mr Pig said:


> A measuring cylinder that sticks to walls?


Man I wish there was a like button on these forums, that was gold!


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2018)

Mr Pig said:


> A measuring cylinder that sticks to walls?


 That's from the garage on the international space station. Notice how the blue fluid has the appearance of a microfiber towel and is floating in the cylinder.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

Hey looking for a tool recommendation. Seems like a good place to ask. I’m looking for a lightweight, packable, ratchet type tool with bits designed for a bike. Something like the i9 Matchmaker, but not in the axle, cuz that just seems obnoxious. I decided I need this after severely gouging my seat post with a my mini-tool while adjusting my saddle on the trail.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

PurpleMtnSlayer said:


> I'm looking for a lightweight, packable, ratchet type tool with bits designed for a bike.


LINK

You get it in the plastic case or a version with less add-ons in a cloth pouch.

NuthaLINK


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

I love it, thanks.


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## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

This thing has made my life so much easier in the shop and on the trail. Looking back would have bought it day one.

https://silca.cc/products/updated-t-ratchet-ti-torque-kit

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

Man Silca makes some amazing looking tools. But the overall size and cost of that mini torque wrench set lost out to the Topeak rocket ratchet lite and park tool folding chain breaker. I'm very excited! Google express had a 25% off coupon so they were only $46 total. Planning to pitch the stock levers and replace with some dh tire worthy ones. Maybe it's possible to add a pocket or elastic for some tire bacon and an inflator. Gonna hide a spare link inside the chain breaker. Full kit right there.


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