# Diagnosing worn rear hubs?



## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

Anybody know any good ways to tell if the rear hub is going or gone? The bike seems to be abit noisier in the rear. Not super loud, also has what appears to be alittle bit more drag than usual. The rear discs are fine with no rub. The wheels are Easton XC70 with the hubs that came with them. Not sure exactly of the brand. The hubs make a loud clicking noise now when freewheeling, dont recall them making any noise in the past. Any thoughts on this? I have maybe 1000kms on the hubs in all weather. The tires are low rolling resistance furiuos freds and the pressure is good. Chain and cassette are fine and kept clean.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Sounds like the pawls need to be cleaned and lubricated, of course Easton doesn't appear to have service manuals online for the EA70 XC wheels. My guess is that you have to remove the endcap on the driveside then the freehub should slide off exposing the pawls and ratchet ring. You can then clean and relubricate with a heavy oil or light grease.


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

Do you have any guidance here or a vid link I can watch to service a hub? Do I need special tools? When you say clean, is it just a wipe out clean with a rag, or do I need to blast out crud with a solvent and replace grease in packing area? Any preference on grease? I have Shimano white lithium (I think thats the grease type)


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

My guess is you remove the end cap (#11) and pull the freehub body off. I will usually just clean with a rag to wipe off the old lube and any crud. Then use a oil like gear oil, Phil's Tenacious, or a light grease like Slick Honey. To thick a grease and the pawls will stick. Reinstall by sliding the freehub body back on then rotating it counter clockwise as you push it on to get the pawls to engage into the ratchet ring.

http://www.eastoncycling.com/bike/wp-content/uploads/XC_R-4.pdf


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

So to recap, I need to remove the cassette first? Then use allen key and take off #11 cap? Then removel the seal (are the seals reuseable?) Then I slide out the hub body (#8) then I clean the area in front of #2 bearing? Does #8 freely pull out or do I need some sort of puller to remove? For cleaning the #2 bearing I take it a quick brush wipe for grit and stuff and repack this area lightly with grease is all that is needed? Is this bearing a sealed type or is it exposed roller/needle type? Any issue here with over greasing? Do I put any grease on the hub sidewalls or internals before putting #8 back in place? Is that torque rating correct for #11? Thanks


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

You need to remove the cassette (probably) and then remove the end cap (#11). There should be no reason to remove any seals to simply service the pawls. The freehub body should pull off by hand.


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

Easton Cycling

It looks like I have the Easton XC70 Two. I got it mostly apart, then for some reason the stupid freebody appears to be one piece after you remove it from the hub with a 12mm key. So I was unable to access or clean the gritty areas. The actual bearings themselves were clean. The slop and grit seems to be coming from the pawl ratchet area. But it appears to be one piece unit when removed.

Is this a crap hub design? I got it all back together and Im not sure if its better or worse.

Is there a possibility of over tightening the cassette lock ring? I went tight plus half turn or so.


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

Parktool has some good info for you. Check out the other repair sections for info on your cassette. I just tighten it firmly - I can usually loosen it without a chain whip using a glove to hold the cassette. The chain pulls it in the tightening direction anyway.

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Freehub Service


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

So I should be able to lightly pry off the seal on the rear of the freehub? The side opposite the bearing cone side? Whats a good tool to pry off the cover area with out mangling it to much?


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

If it's not designed to be serviced, I would just try to work some lube into it from the front and back, as parktool indicates in step 7.

That's a not to say it's not possible to disassemble it. You might be successful, but you will likely damage it. Not having tried on that particular wheel, I would only try it after I had installed a new one. Otherwise you might not be able to use it while you wait for a replacement to arrive.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Bigwheel29 said:


> Easton Cycling
> 
> It looks like I have the Easton XC70 Two. I got it mostly apart, then for some reason the stupid freebody appears to be one piece after you remove it from the hub with a 12mm key. So I was unable to access or clean the gritty areas. The actual bearings themselves were clean. The slop and grit seems to be coming from the pawl ratchet area. But it appears to be one piece unit when removed.
> 
> ...


Bummer, yea it's basically a Formula hub then. There freehub bodies have always been rough IME, though they seem to work fine otherwise. Not much can be done except as mentioned removing the rear seal and flushing it out with solvent. Then let it dry and put some light to medium weight oil in.

:thumbsup:


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

Hey if this is my freehub, the XC2,

Does this mean I can use any Shimano 9sp freehub? Such as an XT or similar for an exact fit? Do they all have the internal 12mm threaded collar?

http://www.eastoncycling.com/bike/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/2011-Easton-Cassette-Body-Chart.pdf


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

out of interest if I do decide to buy new hubs, what do you guys recommend as a good full rear replacement hub? What size do I need here? I am bit confused on the Spoke type for the hub they seem to be either 32 or 36? The Easton rims have only 24 spokes? Also its a rear QD type hub? So is this just a basic 135mm? Or is it different? Rotors are 6 spoke ICE techs. 

Is Hadley ok? Easy to sevice or should I look at something else?

I see Hadley offers a thru bolt instead as well as a QR? Is a thru bolt stiffer and safer? Its installed by a allen key right? Any reason to pick QR over a thru bolt?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

No need to junk the hubs. If everything else is working, just replace the freewheel. By and large, freehubs are now considered a 'wear part' that you just replace when they stop working. A LBS can try flushing the freehub body, it might fix it, it might not. If not, or if they think it is worn beyond repair, just replace the freehub.

A shimano freehub will not fit an Easton hub, you'll need to find someplace that has/can order a matching freehub from Easton. Hope this helps you out a bit.


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

I have the freehub soaking in Chainbright all afternoon. I hope it will fix it up abit, but I am skeptical as theres no good way to drain it out right.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Flush it under the tap, then stick it in a container of denatured alcohol. Let it get inundated, then remove it. The alcohol will evaporate in (relatively) short order. You can grab a container of it at your local big box home improvement store in the painting/prep section.

*edit* After you are done and you are sure it is dry, you'll need to work some oil in past any rotating gap. It it's oozing oil at the end, it won't hurt it, just let the excess drain, and clean up the hub.


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

alright the death hub is cleaned and reinstalled. Anything I should listen for that indicates failure is imminent? Seems quieter than before. I used Phils Tenacious oil on all parts and bearing faces. 

Is it normal for the axle to fully extend on the cassette end and only partially extend on the disc end? So when the QRs are attached, the drive end is flush on the axle and the other side is half way flush? No side to side wobble or anything.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

As long as the axle protrudes into the drop outs, it doesn't matter, but all things being equal, one would prefer they stick out equally on both sides.

You should only oil the actual freehub mechanism; the axle bearings need to be greased. The oil certainly won't hurt them, but get some grease in ASAP.

Freehubs tend not to make any special noises before dying...they either freewheel both ways, don't freewheel at all, or function hesitatingly or intermittently. Rough action may predict worn bearings/races, or grinding may indicate contamination, but otherwise, no. They get noisier as they require more lubrication.


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## Bigwheel29 (Feb 9, 2012)

When Freehubs fail do they always launch you face first off the bike suddenly at speed?


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