# 9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

I've been wanting to add a dropper post for the longest time, but I couldn't find one where people were ecstatic about theirs except for the Gravity one. However, I wanted mine to be internally routed/stealth, and I figured I'd keep waiting to see if KS would improve on their QC/Customer Service, fork out the cash for the Thomson Covert, or wait and see if Gravity would release a stealth option. Also looked into the Giant and Spesh posts, but they also had hit or miss reviews.

9point8 got astounding reviews on their first release, and then they came out with the Fall Line mechanical stealth dropper. They took the feedback from riders and implemented them into the Fall Line. I figured that's the closest I'll get to a gravity one, so I jumped on it.

First ride was today, and I have to say it's built beautifully. They put a lot of thought into the Quick Connect and seat clamp. It also performed wonderfully. Smooth up and down; didn't hurt my nuts and bolt; solid feedback on the switch (went with the thumb switch, but wondered if I should have done the lever instead); overall I'm extremely pleased with my patience and purchase.

$400 shipped to the US is a bit pricey (came in about 5 business days to MA), but if it keeps with 9point8's trend it'll be worth it over similarly priced posts (RS Reverb stealth, Thomson). Solid thumbs up from me.


----------



## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

Excellent, thanks for the write-up. I have had a Thomson which ended up being replaced several times under warranty, and now have a LEV which has worked very well. I do think the LEV seat clamp is a joke and is nothing but a pain to maintain to prevent it from making a ton of noise. I have been watching the Fall Line development since I first saw it last year. I hope it delivers on it's promise of simplicity and durability. I love the fact that it can be manually operated should it fail.


----------



## trekninja (Oct 22, 2007)

this is actually reall nice, I think ill be picking one of these up


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Kinda scary to buy one that has just been released with no "long term" reviews, but I might just jump on it. Was planning to get a Thomson, but it sounds like even those aren't perfect (@ tiSS'er).


----------



## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

Porch said:


> Kinda scary to buy one that has just been released with no "long term" reviews, but I might just jump on it. Was planning to get a Thomson, but it sounds like even those aren't perfect (@ tiSS'er).


I've had 7 Thomson posts replaced under warranty. True story. I wanted to love the post, because the post itself is excellent. The cartridge on the other hand....

The Fall Line has my attention. I have a LEV Integra that is working well, but my one complaint is the seat clamp. It's weak, and creaks constantly. The post hydraulics and action have been flawless though.


----------



## lobster_CT (Jan 8, 2013)

Another happy owner of the fall line. If service is as easy as it seems when the time comes, I'll be 100% satisfied with the post.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

As much as I was afraid to drop $400 on a post from a new company, I'd have the same issue with a Reverb or Thomson or Fox after their warranties were up. Meanwhile, I believe 9point8 offer a 2 year warranty.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

I asked about user serviceability. Convo below:



> *Me:*
> Hi,
> 
> I was wondering how user servicable is the Fall Line post? I love mine so far, but out of curiosity just wanted to know what can I do myself before claiming warranty service in the event of failure.
> ...


So far, I'm super pleased with 9point8 as a company, and the Fall Line as a dropper post. This response was returned with 5 minutes of emailing them. At this point, if they keep up with the quality of service and support they'll be around for a long time. KS support sucks, and look how long they've lasted in the dropper game. 9point8 seems to be doing things right so far.


----------



## bobo_krkk_NIN (Dec 2, 2006)

This looks really interesting. Like a gravity dropper but without the weakness of the holes in the inner tube for the mechanical stops. 

Anyone determine how the "brake" works? I guess the brake is an expansion of the inner tube to hold fast to the outer tube? Should be really reliable but heavier that hydraulic options.

I like the concept.

Bobo


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

bobo_krkk_NIN said:


> This looks really interesting. Like a gravity dropper but without the weakness of the holes in the inner tube for the mechanical stops.
> 
> Anyone determine how the "brake" works? I guess the brake is an expansion of the inner tube to hold fast to the outer tube? Should be really reliable but heavier that hydraulic options.
> 
> ...


There is a separate brake element inside the expands against the inside of the upper tube. It is spring applied, and when the remote lever is pressed, it takes the spring force off the brake and allows the post to move.
If you look at the weights on the web site, you will see is lighter than almost any other post in the market.


----------



## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

bobo_krkk_NIN said:


> This looks really interesting. Like a gravity dropper but without the weakness of the holes in the inner tube for the mechanical stops.
> 
> Anyone determine how the "brake" works? I guess the brake is an expansion of the inner tube to hold fast to the outer tube? Should be really reliable but heavier that hydraulic options.
> 
> ...


Yep, that is why I am considering getting it before I have another hydraulic failure, which is bound to happen soon. According to 9Point8, the brake system is capable of holding up to 900lbs of pressure. If that is the case, then this could be a real winner.


----------



## NiteOwlNY (Mar 20, 2015)

I have the Reverb Stealth and my one main complaint is it has no offset! I've got my seat all the way back and I still find myself trying to slide back a little more. I've been watching this post and it may very well cause me to remove the Reverb and drop the cash on this....


----------



## bobo_krkk_NIN (Dec 2, 2006)

N


JackP42 said:


> There is a separate brake element inside the expands against the inside of the upper tube. It is spring applied, and when the remote lever is pressed, it takes the spring force off the brake and allows the post to move.
> If you look at the weights on the web site, you will see is lighter than almost any other post in the market.


You are correct about the weights. I had 400g in my head for some reason.

It seems like a real winner. They have hit every feature in a stealth post. Hope it sells well.

Bobo


----------



## Peter E (Feb 16, 2004)

What about the return speed? is it adjustable? I like that you can tune it on the reverb. Recently got a Command post for my wife and find the return speed way to fast, even with low pressure. I'm on my third reverb now (warranty) and thinking of giving this one a try. Just don't want it to kick like the command post and some other posts do.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

Not adjustable return speed. This is my first dropper, since I've been waiting patiently for a reliable one that's stealth and built nicely. That said, I have no issues with how fast/slow the post returns.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

drpheta said:


> Not adjustable return speed. This is my first dropper, since I've been waiting patiently for a reliable one that's stealth and built nicely. That said, I have no issues with how fast/slow the post returns.


Are you sure about that? I thought that you adjust the return speed with the pressure adjust? They have a "safe working range" of 20-40psi so I am curious what that does?


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

any other rider posts or reviews? i'm close to pulling the trigger on one... thanks


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

I've only had mine about a week and it's rained ever since......so no review yet.


----------



## wfo922 (Dec 14, 2009)

Yep, this will be my next post.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

Just updating this thread. This post has been phenomenal throughout the summer so far. Smooth operating, solid, nothing loose. I have moved it from my Anthem to my 5010, and it's been stellar on both bikes.


----------



## steve650b (Feb 23, 2014)

Got mine installed today. Only went for a short ride but happy with the quality so far. Will keep everyone posted.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Really interested in this dropper post. How does the thumb lever feel? Is it pretty easy to push? Anyone happen to have owned a Specialized Command Post previously and can compare the lever action?


----------



## wheatgerm (Jan 30, 2006)

Just saw that the internals for this 9Point8 post will be the same as the new Race Face and Easton dropper posts. The Race Face will have a shifter-style lever.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

9point8 has both style levers available.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I went ahead and ordered the dropper after they responded to my e-mail within 5 minutes of me sending it. I like that it's totally user serviceable and they have all the parts available on their website. Will see how it compares to my command post blacklite


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Hey OP, its been a couple months since you posted - is the post still going strong with no issues? Their email correspondence is top notch, so seems like a solid bet... But of course, no long term review will make anyone a little uneasy.


----------



## steve650b (Feb 23, 2014)

The thumb lever is pretty easy to push and can be mounted any way you want. I currently have it vertical (pic above) but am going to put it under the bar, sideways like a shift lever.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

steve650b said:


> The thumb lever is pretty easy to push and can be mounted any way you want. I currently have it vertical (pic above) but am going to put it under the bar, sideways like a shift lever.


Does the cable pass through the trigger first then through the housing and out to the seat post? If so, I intend to use my KS southpaw trigger with this dropper


----------



## steve650b (Feb 23, 2014)

Yes it goes through, similar to the southpaw


----------



## santacruzr (Aug 11, 2015)

I can report that this is the best drop post I've used by far. Very simple to set up super reliable so far and by far the best customer service of any post mfg.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

santacruzr said:


> I can report that this is the best drop post I've used by far. Very simple to set up super reliable so far and by far the best customer service of any post mfg.


:thumbsup:

Too bad I own 2 KS Lev's (with creakly heads/clamps and no support)


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

santacruzr said:


> I can report that this is the best drop post I've used by far. Very simple to set up super reliable so far and by far the best customer service of any post mfg.


Great to hear! Mine shipped on Monday! Praying that customs has mercy on me and I receive it by friday


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

SB666 said:


> Great to hear! Mine shipped on Monday! Praying that customs has mercy on me and I receive it by friday


Mine shipped last Friday(shipped same day I ordered!). Got to Chicago at 9pm last night...
I'm hoping it'll get to me in California by Friday too!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

pwu_1 said:


> Mine shipped last Friday(shipped same day I ordered!). Got to Chicago at 9pm last night...
> I'm hoping it'll get to me in California by Friday too!


Same time! 9pm yesterday in Chicago... I'm pretty sure that is the customs location


----------



## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

any luck getting it cheaper due to the exchange rate?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Mark194 said:


> any luck getting it cheaper due to the exchange rate?


I was curious after I made the purchase, the price was actually $379 USD... Not Canadian. I double checked my credit card statement


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

$479 cdn.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

santacruzr said:


> I can report that this is the best drop post I've used by far. Very simple to set up super reliable so far and by far the best customer service of any post mfg.


If it has been super reliable, what have you needed customer service for at this point? Am strongly considering this as my next post.


----------



## latif (Jul 1, 2015)

Just got mine a couple days ago, first dropper for me. My LBS used my desire for one to become a dealer here in NorCal and I'm the first guinea pig for them. They charged retail, $379,no extra shipping, installed it for free in my SC 5010 which I had just purchased from them. They we're very impressed by the ease of installation and the multi position thumb lever. First few rides have been great, really liking the lower COG and feeling much more confident on my descents.I'm a newbie to mountain biking so am happy with all the help I can get. I think it works great, just like it's supposed to. Time will tell how it holds up.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

latif said:


> Just got mine a couple days ago, first dropper for me. My LBS used my desire for one to become a dealer here in NorCal and I'm the first guinea pig for them. They charged retail, $379,no extra shipping, installed it for free in my SC 5010 which I had just purchased from them. They we're very impressed by the ease of installation and the multi position thumb lever. First few rides have been great, really liking the lower COG and feeling much more confident on my descents.I'm a newbie to mountain biking so am happy with all the help I can get. I think it works great, just like it's supposed to. Time will tell how it holds up.


Which bike shop? I'm in the sf Bay Area. Just ordered one last Friday from them direct since I didn't think any local shop would have it in stock...


----------



## latif (Jul 1, 2015)

I'm in Arcata, Revolution bike repair. Quite a bit north of you. They didn't have it in stock as this was their first order. Don't know if they plan on stocking as it's a small shop.I'm curious what you have to pay for shipping from Canada.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

$28 bucks for shipping so still cheaper than paying CA sales tax. But if they had it in stock I wouldn't have mind paying a lil extra to get it same day. But yeah arcata is quit a ways north of me.


----------



## latif (Jul 1, 2015)

Think your gonna like it!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Mine is out for delivery! I'll report back with initial impressions :-D


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

SB666 said:


> Mine is out for delivery! I'll report back with initial impressions :-D


The race is on! Mine just changed to out for delivery too.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

006_007 said:


> If it has been super reliable, what have you needed customer service for at this point? Am strongly considering this as my next post.


I had questions on servicing the post (which will be necessary in the future) and ordering a 1x conversion piece for my lever. CS isn't always for problems, but general questions as well. The fact that they were very adamant about making sure I was happy and responded quickly and in detail meant a lot to me.

That's what pushed me towards 9point8. They had rave reviews of their first post, but before ordering the Fall Line I wanted to make sure I was buying the right product. I was sold on the mechanical aspect of it. I just needed to know how servicable, what size, how things work, etc. They were outstanding before purchase and after. They even shipped me my 1x conversion part free using Canada Post, since I wasn't in a rush and couldn't justify paying $8 for expedited postage. Awesome group of people, and awesome dropper by far.


----------



## drpheta (Mar 21, 2012)

SB666 said:


> Hey OP, its been a couple months since you posted - is the post still going strong with no issues? Their email correspondence is top notch, so seems like a solid bet... But of course, no long term review will make anyone a little uneasy.


I put the post through its paces this summer, and it's waaaaay better than I thought it would be. My friend bought a DNM, and while it works well you can see how much better the 9point8 is. No wobble, solid, smooth, and really well build. I haven't had to adjust it at all all summer, although I did swap frames. Switching the post from my old to new frame was super easy and setup was a snap.

I've seen so many KS and RockShox stories about needing to have them serviced, and this post has been solid all summer.

Also, RF/Easton have licensed 9poin8's mechanical droploc tech. I'd still buy the 9point8 over the RF/Easton versions, because the QC from 9point8 is spot on while RF/Easton has issues with their release versions.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

drpheta said:


> I put the post through its paces this summer, and it's waaaaay better than I thought it would be. My friend bought a DNM, and while it works well you can see how much better the 9point8 is. No wobble, solid, smooth, and really well build. I haven't had to adjust it at all all summer, although I did swap frames. Switching the post from my old to new frame was super easy and setup was a snap.
> 
> I've seen so many KS and RockShox stories about needing to have them serviced, and this post has been solid all summer.
> 
> Also, RF/Easton have licensed 9poin8's mechanical droploc tech. I'd still buy the 9point8 over the RF/Easton versions, because the QC from 9point8 is spot on while RF/Easton has issues with their release versions.


Rad! Installing mine today as soon as it is delivered! The 9point8 seat clamp looks way better than RF/Eaton also!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Got my fall line installed! 

Install went smoothly for the most part, I had to release some of the tension from the cable but it only took a second to do that... Just loosened the grub screws and pulled the tension back a few millimeters. The instructions recommend having the adjuster on the trigger all the way in so you can tighten the cable, but I'd actually suggest having the adjuster somewhere in the middle, its definitely possible to have the cable tension too tight. 

The post connects and disconnects from the trigger mechanism super easily, so much so that I would say its very feasible to have one post for several bikes - that's a huge plus.

The trigger that comes with the fall line seems very well built and solid, however I went with the KS Southpaw because I already had one handy and I really love the position on the southpaw. Action with the fall line and the southpaw is great so if anyone is interested in doing the same, it works great!

I have a Lev Ti on my other bike so I can compare the 2 pretty well... I will say that as long as the Lev is operational, the action is definitely much smoother than the fall line... Coupled with the southpaw, the Lev has actual modulation where as the fall line is basically either shooting up or locked. The fall line definitely comes up faster than the Lev, but not so much that I am concerned about my precious bits!

The action on the Lev is better, no question, but that was to be expected with mechanical vs. hydraulic. My reason for going with the fall line was reliability, and I won't really be able to speak to that until I have used the dropper for a while...

One strange thing that I experienced... after completing the install I wiped the whole bike down with rubbing alcohol, including the dropper stanchion. Right after doing this, the dropper would no longer stay down... The issue only lasted for 20 minutes and so I am sure that it was due to the alcohol still being wet on the dropper internals, which is essentially a super tight brake from what I understand. There shouldn't be any issues with rain, however I would be careful with putting any sort of stanchion lube on there, could potentially destroy the internals. I am going to contact 9point8 and confirm with them whether to avoid any lubrication on the stanchion. It comes from the factory with the equivalent of slick honey by the looks of it, so not sure why that wouldn't affect the operation, kind of strange. Also possible that the internals need to bed in the same way that new brake pads do? Not sure, I am definitely going to discuss with them to be safe.

All in all I am super happy with the dropper! It looks way sleek and the seat clamp itself is the best out of any seat post I have ever used! Love how he for/aft and tilt adjustments are independent of eachother! 

The little torque key that came with it is awesome, but they should have gone with 5mm hardware and a 5mm key, it would be way more functional for the rest of the bike if it were, I feel like most components use 5mm vs 4...

So far I am very happy with my purchase!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Update:
First trail ride, absolutely love this thing! Return speed is perfect, felt extremely solid and no slipping. I'm thinking the weird slipping I was experiencing when I first installed was the internal brake bedding, similar to breaking in a new set of brake pads. Felt solid while riding and I don't foresee any issues. This is a very well thought out and crafted unit!


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Finally had time to install my fall line today. No time for trail ride yet but so far the post seems to work really good just riding around the neighborhood. Compared to my specialized command post black lite the lever feels harder to push but that might be due to the way the dropper is routed in my frame...the housing makes a somewhat sharp bend from the down tube to the seat tube so some of it might be due to that bend. As far as the post goes, everything feels solid, I can stop the post anywhere and there's no slippage or anything. Installation was pretty straight forward, I was able to use my jagwire mountain pro braided housing(4.5mm diameter) and also use mine modded shimano left shifter to activate the seat post. One thing that I noticed and thought was awesome was that the seat post is machined so that you can tighten the seat clamp a lil so the the seat post doesn't drop down but you can still adjust the seat to make sure it's pointed correctly easily. I think it's little details like this and the interchangeable offset head that will make this seat post stand out from the others in the market. Hopefully this post will be trouble free for me long term.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

being completely rebuildable is a really nice option. this is in my list of dropper post selection. of course long term reviews are nice (i guess this is pretty much premature).


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

No long term review on the dropper post yet since I've only had mine for about a month(and my riding has been way down lately).
I have to say I'm totally happy with this post. Enough that I got another one to replace the Command Post IR on my other bike.
Its really awesome having infinite position. I didn't know what I was missing out on(with the 3 fixed positions of the Command Post) until I got this post.
The only real negative on this post so far is the force required to activate the post. It definitely takes quite a bit more force to activate. Still not 100% sure if this is due to the way the cable is routed in my frame or if its just the post. I'll know more when I get the 2nd post installed on my other bike.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

pwu_1 said:


> No long term review on the dropper post yet since I've only had mine for about a month(and my riding has been way down lately).
> I have to say I'm totally happy with this post. Enough that I got another one to replace the Command Post IR on my other bike.
> Its really awesome having infinite position. I didn't know what I was missing out on(with the 3 fixed positions of the Command Post) until I got this post.
> The only real negative on this post so far is the force required to activate the post. It definitely takes quite a bit more force to activate. Still not 100% sure if this is due to the way the cable is routed in my frame or if its just the post. I'll know more when I get the 2nd post installed on my other bike.


Either my thumb got stronger, or the trigger mechanism broke in, because I felt the same way when I first installed, but now after a month of regular riding, the tension is perfect - not hard at all to press. It's most likely the trigger breaking in. The whole post had a bit of break in period, the action was great right out of the box, but it's definitely gotten even better since. I'm confident that this will be my go-to dropper make/model from here on out! Aside from the dropper function, it has the most well thought out features I've seen in any dropper post - the seat clamp is flawless and I love the separate for/aft and and tilt adjustments. Also, the ribbed insertion portion of the post is very functional - no friction paste necessary!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Also, FWIW, I'm running this with the KS Southpaw trigger


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Just ordered mine! Working with my lbs to see if the product is worth becoming a local retail partner with! Can't wait to get it installed although I haven't had much problems with my reverb or the lev on my other bikes. What can I say I love trying new things.

Now for my new frame arrival is another story... I'll stay posted on my opinion. See what I did there?


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

+1 for the Fall Line...Great product, easy to install, laid back option is nice. The fit and finish is very good and the instructions were solid. I was able to install it and I'm not the most mechanically inclined person. Awesome Customer service, very responsive. On a side note, does anyone use any stanchion lube on the post itself?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Good question. Maybe 9point8 can chime in on this one. With my reverb and lev I used to dab on some fork oil along with my fork/shock stanchions... I'm not sure what the seals are comprised of but I can't imagine that being a bad thing? Then again I'm not too concerned cuz my post has about 200 lbs coming down on it ;-)



azfishman said:


> +1 for the Fall Line...Great product, easy to install, laid back option is nice. The fit and finish is very good and the instructions were solid. I was able to install it and I'm not the most mechanically inclined person. Awesome Customer service, very responsive. On a side note, does anyone use any stanchion lube on the post itself?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

is the hydraulic component rebuildable? are parts readily available in US?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> is the hydraulic component rebuildable? are parts readily available in US?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There is no hydraulic component... That's the beauty. The post is held in its position with a mechanical brake and is air sprung.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

From what I gather, the brake mechanism and the air chambers can be replaced by buying their parts but they don't expect that those two components to break down. No hydraulics!!!!!



spyghost said:


> is the hydraulic component rebuildable? are parts readily available in US?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

SB666 said:


> There is no hydraulic component... That's the beauty. The post is held in its position with a mechanical brake and is air sprung.


sounds to me like a wear and tear component. are these the pointed keys with the spring?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Yea I spoke with them quite a bit about maintenance... They basically suggest re-lubing the collar seal once every year or 2 depending on how often you use it, otherwise, they expect the brake to last 10+ years


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> sounds to me like a wear and tear component. are these the pointed keys with the spring?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry I don't understand your question, what are you referring to when you say "pointed keys with the spring?"


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

I remember reading the brake mechanism is rated for 900 lbs or something crazy like that. Good to hear even less maintenance is required! I am really good at breaking things so I'm glad to hear something is up to the task!



SB666 said:


> Yea I spoke with them quite a bit about maintenance... They basically suggest re-lubing the collar seal once every year or 2 depending on how often you use it, otherwise, they expect the brake to last 10+ years


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

SB666 said:


> Sorry I don't understand your question, what are you referring to when you say "pointed keys with the spring?"


i think i was referring to guide bushes. im trying to look for internals of this post but can't find any


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

in Bellingham, Washington, United States - photo by mikekazimer - Pinkbike



spyghost said:


> i think i was referring to guide bushes. im trying to look for internals of this post but can't find any


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Junersun said:


> in Bellingham, Washington, United States - photo by mikekazimer - Pinkbike


so how does it work?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Since I'm on my phone this is the best I can do... Pink bike article says:

The brake works via a spring loaded plunger that enters a fluid filled chamber, causing it to expand and lock in place against the inside of the post. Depressing the remote lever reduces the pressure, allowing the post to move freely. The remote lever is cable actuated as well, and can easily be removed by unscrewing it from the base of the post.



spyghost said:


> so how does it work?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

so there's the hydraulic section of the kit. i'm still trying to get my head around how this particular piece works, but this is still a point of failure... the 9.8 site says it should go to the factory or partner (sounds like ks). point is, will 9.8 have a rebuild kit for this?

RS is plague with issues but it sells pretty much the internals readily unlike competitors.

i'm not in favor of any seatpost btw. im still an end user trying to find the best $ can buy.

modesty aside, i can build/repair all parts of a bike that's why serviceability and parts availability is one aspect I'm also looking at


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Where are you guys reading that there is hydraulics involved at all? It is not a hydraulic brake, it's a mechanical brake... The brake is activated by default and holds the post in position, then when the trigger is pulled the brake is released and the post is raised via a low pressure air spring. I'm not seeing where hydraulics would be involved. The whole idea is that it's 100% mechanical and so it's much more reliable than the competition - unless I'm missing something?


----------



## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

The bold below is what people are considering (from the PB article):

"The brake works via a spring loaded plunger that enters a *fluid filled chamber*, causing it to expand and lock in place against the inside of the post."

Yes, it contains fluid, but it is not really the same idea as the other true hydraulic posts.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

To help clarify the internal workings of the Fall Line, here are some details:
•	The return action to raise the post is by air, which nominally is only 25 psi. The speed of return can be controlled by fine tuning the air pressure plus the quality of motion is controlled by bleeding air past the close fitting brake and air cushioning at the end of stroke.
•	The post is held in position by friction between the brake and in the inside of the upper tube. Capacity of the brake is minimum 600 lbf when new, and like the brakes on your bike, once it beds in over use it increases significantly, frequently above 1000 lbf. This capacity if both pushing down on the saddle as well as lifting up. Lifting the bike by the saddle with the post dropped in not a concern, nor is shipping with the post in any position.
•	The brake is energized by an internal spring which is released when you pull/push on the handlebar mounted lever. The spring pressurizes a very compact hydraulic system which is very much the same as the brakes on your bike. Hydraulic fluid in this is less than 5ml.
•	Lab and real word riding tests have shown this brake to be very robust typically requiring no maintenance.
•	Routine preventative maintenance should only need to address re-lubing the main seal on approximately a yearly basis depending on conditions, and lubing the keys and bushing inside on a less frequent basis. The main seal can be relubed by venting air pressure and unthreading the seal holder. The remainder requires disassembly of the post. The grease we offer is specially formulated to provide long service life as well good operation from -35C to +50C. Tests have not been done with the large variety of greases and stantion lubes etc on the market. We would expect most of them to not provide the service life and consistency, but would not anticipate any of these to be harmful, but as they have not been tested, we cannot provide a recommendation.
•	All maintenance parts are available from the web site, and if you feel you need a part that is not listed or need assistance, contact customer service they can get you any parts you need and help resolve any questions you have. Service video’s of the post should be up shortly. The brake itself is not a serviceable component but is available as a replaceable part, though from our testing we would not expect the need to replace it through the life of the post.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Oh i see, you know when I read that in the pinkbike article, I thought this was an error. I just emailed 9point8 to clear this up - it took all of 20 minutes to get a thoughtful reply back:

"The quote from the Pinkbike article is correct. Overall, we tend to view the function of the Fall Line as primarily mechanical in that unlike most designs, the position of the post is NOT achieved by moving a volume of oil from one chamber to another using a valve. It is very much like a conventional hydraulic brake in concept, though it is spring applied, and the fluid volume is very small. Whether you want to call that mechanical or hydraulic is starting to get into semantics - our intent is not to mislead anyone, but to distinguish the function of Fall Line from other posts. The brake mechanism used in Fall Line is light-weight, simple, and easily scaled for different strokes. At the same time, it is low maintenance, low wear, and holds 600-1000 lb in both directions. Let me know if you have any further questions!"


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

SB666 said:


> Oh i see, you know when I read that in the pinkbike article, I thought this was an error. I just emailed 9point8 to clear this up - it took all of 20 minutes to get a thoughtful reply back:
> 
> "The quote from the Pinkbike article is correct. Overall, we tend to view the function of the Fall Line as primarily mechanical in that unlike most designs, the position of the post is NOT achieved by moving a volume of oil from one chamber to another using a valve. It is very much like a conventional hydraulic brake in concept, though it is spring applied, and the fluid volume is very small. Whether you want to call that mechanical or hydraulic is starting to get into semantics - our intent is not to mislead anyone, but to distinguish the function of Fall Line from other posts. The brake mechanism used in Fall Line is light-weight, simple, and easily scaled for different strokes. At the same time, it is low maintenance, low wear, and holds 600-1000 lb in both directions. Let me know if you have any further questions!"


hm, that's interesting. So what happens if hydraulic fluid was to leak out somehow? Would the brake still hold in the last position and you just wouldn't be able to change position or would it become a pogo stick? If the post can maintain position without the hydraulic fluid then I think you can call it a mechanical post. Otherwise if it needs hydraulic fluid to activate the brake, then I think its still a hydraulic post.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

pwu_1 said:


> hm, that's interesting. So what happens if hydraulic fluid was to leak out somehow? Would the brake still hold in the last position and you just wouldn't be able to change position or would it become a pogo stick? If the post can maintain position without the hydraulic fluid then I think you can call it a mechanical post. Otherwise if it needs hydraulic fluid to activate the brake, then I think its still a hydraulic post.


If the hydraulics in that brake fail, then the post will fail... I agree, it relies on hydraulics so I'm not sure it should be called a mechanical post. I do think that those hydraulics have WAY less stress on them then there would be with a traditional hydraulic post. On a lev, reverb, Thompson, etc... The riders weight it being suspended by the hydraulics and so the riders weight is placing a great deal of stress on the hydraulic seals. With this, it's just the brake actuation that is hydraulic, but the brake itself is what's holding the weight, so there must be much less stress on any hydraulic seals. 
I'm a little bummed to hear that there is a potential failure point, but the risk sounds very low and also that brake shouldn't really need maintenance from what I understand


----------



## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Correct SB666.

Reverb etc. are using a piston and orifice directly with the hydraulic fluid to suspend the rider weight. We know this has legitimate issues for some models and users.

The Fall Line uses a mechanical brake/shoe/pad to suspend the rider weight. Yes, there is a hydraulic component applying pressure as a link in that physical chain. But it is not the same as the other designs above.

I would hope for similar reliability here just as we get from a hydraulic wheel brake system. Any mechanical assembly like this can fail, but I think this design avoids a known problem in a very interesting way.

I have a Reverb stock on my new Fuel EX. I plan to run it for now since it came with the bike. But if I experience any issues, I will warranty it, sell it and replace with the Fall Line. It has lots of great features and seems like a well thought out product.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I'm not upset in anyway to realize that there is hydraulics involved. I'm just going to have to stop describing it to people as a pure mechanical dropper post.

In the end, I want a trouble free dropper post that I can just slap on my bike and not have to worry about whether its going to fail. So far so good but only time will tell.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i hope 9.8 will release a vid on how these all go together internally for fall line and pulse.

should brake dust be considered an issue here? over time it will build up in the 'upper tube' and potentially ruin any seal inside.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> i hope 9.8 will release a vid on how these all go together internally for fall line and pulse.
> 
> should brake dust be considered an issue here? over time it will build up in the 'upper tube' and potentially ruin any seal inside.


I don't think brake dust will be an issue. The braking will be instant, not like wheel/rotational braking where it is stopping an object with momentum and more gradual. With the seat post brake is not dealing with all that much force (rider weight) so there won't be slipping and therefor brake dust should be nearly non-existent.


----------



## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

The 900+lb holding force sounds large, but keep in mind the dynamic forces involved in riding. If a 200lb rider hits a hard bump in the saddle, that can equal double the 200lbs of force or be even more. It all depends on the severity of the impact. The only problem could be that the brake could slip from the desired position to one a bit slower upon impact. It could be easily reset by standing and hitting the lever.

The worst case I can imagine is a slight slip on successive bumps resulting in a lower saddle height that is not desired at that time. And if the rider doesn't notice it quickly since it could be gradual, they might be in a lower than optimal position. SeemS pretty unlikely to be an issue though since it sounds like they have done some solid testing at large cycle numbers.

All that said, I think the holding force is probably sufficient for most riders and situations. But you want to realize the actual forces can be much higher than the simple rider weight.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

So as of now, no failures? I am really intrigued by this post. I rode on one today, around the parking lot at Wrench Science. The post works great. It seems to raise slower than my Thomson Dropper, every post is slower than my Gravity Dropper (God, the boot is ugly!). I will sell my Thomson to buy a 9 point 8. This is the post Gravity Dropper should have been working on, as all of the hydraulic posts fail. Please keep reviews coming, and thanks to everyone above.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

4 months on mine now, completely solid and reliable.


----------



## santacruzr (Aug 11, 2015)

I've got 5 months on mine without a hiccup. If anyone wants to read more about the post,Pinkbike did a real good review of the post this week on their site. It's worth reading as to better understand the internals if anything else.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

3 months on mine and no problems.


----------



## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Does the fall line only work with internal routing? This looks like the best dropper out there. But one of the bikes I am considering building doesn't have internal routing


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Derek200 said:


> Does the fall line only work with internal routing? This looks like the best dropper out there. But one of the bikes I am considering building doesn't have internal routing


For now, it is internal only unfortunately...


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

2 months on mine and very happy. Came off a regular Reverb which was great for the first year and a half and then 9 failures (same o-ring each time) over the next 2 and a half year. 
Followed the reverb with a stealth reverb which was fine but a general mess to install.

Bought the 9point8 and wish I would have bought it at the beginning of the season.

I find the trigger to be stiff and somewhat hard to depress but I am also running it on '12 Mojo HD and have the cable going into the seattube through the bolt hole for the FD and it has to take two sharp bends to get in there. I suspect that is causing the stiffness issue.

I really like the adjustability of the trigger, being able to mount it wherever I like. Very slick.

It is expensive but if the reliability is what I hope it to be, it is well worth it.


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Mine has been on for a few months as well. 30.9 x 150mm. I had a Lev Integra. The seat clamps creaked endlessly, no matter what I tried to alleviate it. Putting that thing back together was troubling as well. I will say that KS USA was great for customer service despite what I had read elsewhere. No problems whatsoever with the 9.8. I sold the Lev so only had to come up with 1/2 the msrp. Why anyone would by the RF/Easton for 100$ more is beyond me. I like supporting the little guy.

There was a Pinkbike write up where the author's singular complaint was the difficulty of install. I'm borderline special needs when it comes to installing things and this thing was pretty easy. Followed the very detailed instructions and its cake. I like the fact that if I ever buy another bike, I can just buy a cable and remote and be good to go.

Very quality product and definately worth the price difference


----------



## ripley (Jan 28, 2005)

Has anyone experienced a customs charge/cost when ordering and having shipped to the US? just curious, as I've had this happen in the past ordering from Canada, this was quite a few years ago..


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Derek200 said:


> Does the fall line only work with internal routing? This looks like the best dropper out there. But one of the bikes I am considering building doesn't have internal routing


Can always drill the seat tube to accept internal routing 

I've got mine and am currently installing it on a new build.

Very impressed with the quality of the post. Wish I had bought the clamp that allows the lever to essentially be in the same place as the shifter. I didn't research that enough before I bought it.

The seat rails clamp is brilliant. Coming from a KS Lev, I'm looking forward to a solid/creak free seat clamp.

BTW: Dan with 9point8 has been awesome. Good responses to emails and very easy to work with :thumbsup:


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

ripley said:


> Has anyone experienced a customs charge/cost when ordering and having shipped to the US? just curious, as I've had this happen in the past ordering from Canada, this was quite a few years ago..


Nope. Post arrived without any additional customs charge.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

06HokieMTB said:


> Can always drill the seat tube to accept internal routing
> 
> I've got mine and am currently installing it on a new build.
> 
> ...


Are you running 1x?
Do you have a spare shimano 2/3 speed shifter? I modded the left 2/3 speed shifter to activate my dropper. Works so far on the 9point8 and specialized command post. I have a ks lev coming so hopefully works with that too. Basically the mod uses the 2/3 speed selector pin to move the pawl that engages the gear selection out of the way so the lower lever can move through its entire range of motion and back without getting stuck in the middle. It's not permanent so the shifter can be put back to the way it was. 
Probably quite a bit heavier than the levers dedicated to the dropper but much smoother action and better weather proofing.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Gunnar-man said:


> 2 months on mine and very happy. Came off a regular Reverb which was great for the first year and a half and then 9 failures (same o-ring each time) over the next 2 and a half year.
> Followed the reverb with a stealth reverb which was fine but a general mess to install.
> 
> Bought the 9point8 and wish I would have bought it at the beginning of the season.
> ...


I was throwing around the idea of using the bolt hole to route the dropper cable for a frame that doesn't have internal routing. Did you have to enlarge the hole or anything?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

ripley said:


> Has anyone experienced a customs charge/cost when ordering and having shipped to the US? just curious, as I've had this happen in the past ordering from Canada, this was quite a few years ago..


No customs charge


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

SB666 said:


> No customs charge


ditto


----------



## ripley (Jan 28, 2005)

06HokieMTB said:


> ditto


thanks all. Two of these are in my future, hopefully one being xmas gift for wife. I've had some email exchanges with 9point8 and customer support seems stellar.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone know if 9.8 has fixed the wobble issue found by pinbike in the pulse?

anyone know if the ks lev remote (lock on grip) will work for 9.8?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> anyone know if 9.8 has fixed the wobble issue found by pinbike in the pulse?
> 
> anyone know if the ks lev remote (lock on grip) will work for 9.8?


I am not sure what wobble issue you are referring to, but this is the most wobble free dropper I have ever tried. The design isn't really similar to the pulse, so I wouldn't expect any issues.

I am running mine with the KS South Paw, so yes the regular KS ODI locking trigger should work as well.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

SB666 said:


> I am not sure what wobble issue you are referring to, but this is the most wobble free dropper I have ever tried. The design isn't really similar to the pulse, so I wouldn't expect any issues.
> 
> I am running mine with the KS South Paw, so yes the regular KS ODI locking trigger should work as well.


sorry bout the word wobble, but its 'creeping'

http://m.pinkbike.com/news/9Point8-Pulse-Dropper-Post-Review-2013.html


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

spyghost said:


> sorry bout the word wobble, but its 'creeping'
> 
> 9Point8 Pulse Dropper Post - Review - Pinkbike


Gotcha. Yea the dropper functions are completely different. There is no way the fall line will creep, unless you add too much air, it operates best with fairly low air pressure (I've found 20psi to be perfect). But the drop loc brake is rated to hold 600-1000 pounds in either direction (in or out). I can't imagine creeping ever being an issue with this design.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

spyghost said:


> sorry bout the word wobble, but its 'creeping'
> 
> 9Point8 Pulse Dropper Post - Review - Pinkbike


If you are indeed asking about the Pulse (and not the Fall Line), I found that any 'creeping' was fixed by replacing the cable/housing on the dropper (quick and easy)


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

CWnSWCO said:


> If you are indeed asking about the Pulse (and not the Fall Line), I found that any 'creeping' was fixed by replacing the cable/housing on the dropper (quick and easy)


to compressionless?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

where do you guys do online purchase of 9.8?


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

On their website, directly.
Home


spyghost said:


> where do you guys do online purchase of 9.8?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

pity, not much option atm. need a 30.9 150 pulse


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

While I liked my Fall Line dropper post, it had developed an annoying creaking noise from the upper and lower post interface that lubing the wiper seal did not cure.

I learned from the 9point8 "Fall Line Trouble shooting" section, "How do I re-lubricate the main seal nut?....", that lubing the foam ring under the main seal nut "should be done by every Fall Line™ owner at regular intervals".

From the info sent with my post I didn't have any idea that this needed or even could be done.

The good news is it seems to have solved the creaking noise. A longer ride will tell.

Maybe I'm the only owner that didn't know about this simple maintenance item but I suspect most don't and I hope this post helps others.

Now I can go back to thoroughly enjoying the great product that the Fall Line is.:yesnod:


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

gmcttr said:


> While I liked my Fall Line dropper post, it had developed an annoying creaking noise from the upper and lower post interface that lubing the wiper seal did not cure.
> 
> I learned from the 9point8 "Fall Line Trouble shooting" section, "How do I re-lubricate the main seal nut?....", that lubing the foam ring under the main seal nut "should be done by every Fall Line™ owner at regular intervals".
> 
> ...


I knew about how to grease the seal, however by "regular interval" I am almost certain they mean once a year... That lube should last quite a while - unless maybe you ride in wet conditions all the time? 
I was having a creaking issue too, but it wasn't the lubrication. I spoke with 9point8 and we narrowed it down to a bushing in the upper seal cap (same cap you loosened to re lubricate the foam ring). All I did was unscrew that cap, rotate a couple times and then re-fasten and the creak went away, been great for months.
It's possible that the issue you were experiencing was due to lubrication, but I am guessing it was same issue I had, and you resolved by unfastening and re fastening the cap.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Didn't know that either. Two rides on mine and love it.

Really like how the lever gives essentially 4 positions that it can be run in


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

SB666 said:


> ...I spoke with 9point8 and we narrowed it down to a *bushing* in the upper seal cap (same cap you loosened to re lubricate the foam ring). All I did was unscrew that cap, rotate a couple times and then re-fasten and the creak went away, been great for months.
> It's possible that the issue you were experiencing was due to lubrication, but I am guessing it was same issue I had, and you resolved by unfastening and re fastening the cap.


That could very well be the case, thanks! Silence is golden.:thumbsup:


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Nothing really to add other than I bet most of you (myself) included, cannot say some of the things listed in that pic above without laughing...

I mean with nut assembly's and lubrication zones and moving your nuts before re-assembly and close inspection of the nut lube detail... oh nevermind.


----------



## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

My only complaint, and its certainly not a deal breaker, the post is obviously not keyed. I have had a couple crashes and the inner post and saddle twisted a bit. I simply pushed in the trigger to disengage the brake and popped it back in line. On a rare few occasions I have also had the post popping up an inch or two immediately after dropping it all the way down. I can also pull the post up a tad from the bottom on occasion. Usually I can "fix" it by simply exercising the trigger a few times and then all is good. Like I said, none of it is remotely a deal breaker for me. I am overall very happy with my Fall Line. Eventually I'm going to try reinstalling it with a bit more cable and starting with the barrel adjuster in the middle of its range so I have some adjustment ability.


----------



## jduffett (Jun 16, 2006)

rehammer81 said:


> My only complaint, and its certainly not a deal breaker, the post is obviously not keyed. I have had a couple crashes and the inner post and saddle twisted a bit. I simply pushed in the trigger to disengage the brake and popped it back in line.


The upper and lower tubes are keyed together. If your head is rotating relative to the post, 99.9% chance you've loosened the head flange during one of your crashes. If the head is aligned with the graphics and it has stayed tight since you've re-aligned it, you are probably fine. If it comes loose frequently now or you find you are losing air, please contact customer service ([email protected]).


> On a rare few occasions I have also had the post popping up an inch or two immediately after dropping it all the way down. I can also pull the post up a tad from the bottom on occasion. Usually I can "fix" it by simply exercising the trigger a few times and then all is good. Like I said, none of it is remotely a deal breaker for me. I am overall very happy with my Fall Line. Eventually I'm going to try reinstalling it with a bit more cable and starting with the barrel adjuster in the middle of its range so I have some adjustment ability.


Your brake is not fully engaging. I suspect you are on the right track with needing to get a little more slack in your cable setup, but it is also worth checking that you are not running the air pressure too high. You should only really need to use the brake "reset" feature to compensate for sudden temperature swings - if you're having to do that frequently it is an indicator that something's not quite right with your setup. Once you've got it right the post shouldn't budge in either direction. Give us a call if you like - we're happy to help!


----------



## jduffett (Jun 16, 2006)

gmcttr said:


> That could very well be the case, thanks! Silence is golden.:thumbsup:


Yours makes a total of three instances of creaking at the main nut that we are aware of. So far it appears that grit between the tapered seat on the nut and the lower tube is the culprit, and your solution tends to support that as well. Please let us know if the creak returns!


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

jduffett said:


> Yours makes a total of three instances of creaking at the main nut that we are aware of. So far it appears that grit between the tapered seat on the nut and the lower tube is the culprit, and your solution tends to support that as well. Please let us know if the creak returns!


Did I mention that 9point8's customer service is exemplary?...it is.

jduffett ... Thanks for the info and so you have the full story, I also lightly greased the outer threads and o-ring on the nut before reassembly.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Are any of you using your 9Point8 dropper on multiple bikes? As much as I'd like to have one of these on every bike, the finances aren't available to make that happen. So I was thinking about setting up the bikes with a remote, cable and quick connect then swap the post between each bike. Based on the videos I've seen, the quick connect appears to be easy to use.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I have removed mine several times, its super easy. I wouldn't expect any issues. If both my bikes had internal routing I would be going this route myself.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

I agree that swapping the post between bikes that each have their own lever/cable/connector setup would be quick and easy. I have considered this myself.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

If you want to swap between bikes, you may want to check the seat tube angles on both bikes to see if they are suitably similar. If they are not, you may end up having to adjust the seat each time you switch bikes. Doable, but extra effort.


----------



## Brisco Dog (Nov 5, 2009)

I just picked up the RaceFace Turbine Dropper and think I might have gotten a lemon. The installation went fine, but it doesn't seem to be working properly. 1st off, it takes a ton of pressure to endgage the remote. I double checked the routing and cabling to make sure that it wasn't causing the issue. Second, the seat post either shoots back up crazy fast or studders back up depending on the air pressure. Has anybody run into these issues?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Brisco Dog said:


> I just picked up the RaceFace Turbine Dropper and think I might have gotten a lemon. The installation went fine, but it doesn't seem to be working properly. 1st off, it takes a ton of pressure to endgage the remote. I double checked the routing and cabling to make sure that it wasn't causing the issue. Second, the seat post either shoots back up crazy fast or studders back up depending on the air pressure. Has anybody run into these issues?


I'm not sure what the detail differences are with the RF post.
First, check if the post holds with no cable connected and the quick connector not installed, and with the air pressure set to standard, 25-30psi. If it holds, the problem is in the lever, cable or quick connect. If the post is not holding, it likely has a issue.
For the quick connector, make sure neither set screw is sticking out past the outside of the connector. If either does, it can cause friction in the post once installed and cause the issues you state.
One other thing you can try is not tightening the quick connector into the post, leave it a little loose.
Hopefully that will help identify the problem.
Good luck.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

The trigger on my fall line felt stiff at first, feels perfect now. Pretty sure it had a bit of a break in and got looser... That or my thumb is just stronger now. The air pressure is pretty touchy on the fall line, I actually found the 20psi is best, I spoke with 9point8 and they agreed, even 15-20 could be best... Sounds like you JUST installed it, so I wouldn't jump to any conclusions just yet, gotta dial it in and likely go for a couple rides. I will say that, the action only got better after using it for a while, now I can safely say it's the best dropper I've used (and I've used them all).


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

So these are out of stock right now, correct? Site says end of December. Anyone know where they might be available?

And so these do not require a bleed or change of fluid? Seems like to me if there is even a small amount of fluid in there, some type of bleed or flush would be necesarry. No?

anyone else using the RF turbine? How is it?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

monts said:


> So these are out of stock right now, correct? Site says end of December. Anyone know where they might be available?
> 
> And so these do not require a bleed or change of fluid? Seems like to me if there is even a small amount of fluid in there, some type of bleed or flush would be necesarry. No?
> 
> anyone else using the RF turbine? How is it?


No bleed necessary


----------



## Brisco Dog (Nov 5, 2009)

So I troubleshot the post last night and it appears to be the inner mechanism within the post that allows the post to drop or ascend (i.e. the portion of the post where the 1st part of the quick connect screws into). It just don't slide very well and has a ton of friction. Probably is a one off defect. Will order a new and send this back.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Brisco Dog said:


> So I troubleshot the post last night and it appears to be the inner mechanism within the post that allows the post to drop or ascend (i.e. the portion of the post where the 1st part of the quick connect screws into). It just don't slide very well and has a ton of friction. Probably is a one off defect. Will order a new and send this back.


Seems like a guy in this thread is having problems with his Turbine too, is that price I just looked up accurate? $500 (Chain Reaction Cycles)??

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/race-face-dropper-turbine-first-impressions-996585.html :madman:


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

Pre ordered a Fall Line post for myself and one for my son's ride as well(x-mas gift). Received them in the past week and had my first extended ride on mine today. I am very pleased with its performance. I installed my son's as well and he is totally thrilled. 
Only issue I can see is the small set screws that lock the cable in are so small I fear I may have rounded at least one a bit. I ordered extras as I can see myself destroying them. 
I have been on bikes with Reverb, Specialized and KS posts and I find this feels a lot more sturdy. We shall see long term


----------



## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Anybody know when the RF versions will be available?


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

I "pre-ordered" a Fall Line back on Dec 1st with an expected delivery date of 12/8, but was never sent any tracking or shipping info. I contacted 9p8 on 12/8 and asked about my order and they responded that it was an automated delivery estimate. They shipped it out by the end of the day and I received shipping info with an EDT of 12/15 via Canada Post. It's 12/16 right now and still no post. Pretty bummed about the long wait since I ordered 16 days ago and returned a new Thomson Covert because I was stoke to try the Fall Line. I'm not knocking the company, just sharing my experience thus far. They were quick to return emails and did admit that it shouldn't take this long. Whenever it shows up, I'll update my post and hopefully it was worth the wait


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

They can get held up in customs when shipping to the states. I have several rides on mine, 150mm, and this blows everything else out of the water.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

jdaigneault said:


> They can get held up in customs when shipping to the states....


Yep....I just had two packages go through customs (ISC Chicago). One sailed through in a day and the other sat there for 5 days _after_ it had been cleared. It's always a crap shoot.


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Mine just arrived 2 mins ago. Hopefully I'll have time to install today. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

pwu_1 said:


> I was throwing around the idea of using the bolt hole to route the dropper cable for a frame that doesn't have internal routing. Did you have to enlarge the hole or anything?


No, I didn't have to drill it out or anything. The hole is big enough to fit the cable housing and was big enough for the hydraulic hose of the reverb stealth.

The 90 degree bend the cable has to take makes it a bit of a pain to fish up the seat tube, so much so, that I considered drilling the hole in a steeper angle so that it would go smoother but decided against it.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

A few more cold (18-22F) rides on my Fall Line. Working great!


----------



## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

cheezwhip said:


> Anybody know when the RF versions will be available?


Both the RF Turbine and Easton Haven droppers are available now.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

rhynohead said:


> I "pre-ordered" a Fall Line back on Dec 1st with an expected delivery date of 12/8, but was never sent any tracking or shipping info. I contacted 9p8 on 12/8 and asked about my order and they responded that it was an automated delivery estimate. They shipped it out by the end of the day and I received shipping info with an EDT of 12/15 via Canada Post. It's 12/16 right now and still no post. Pretty bummed about the long wait since I ordered 16 days ago and returned a new Thomson Covert because I was stoke to try the Fall Line. I'm not knocking the company, just sharing my experience thus far. They were quick to return emails and did admit that it shouldn't take this long. Whenever it shows up, I'll update my post and hopefully it was worth the wait


Same story.

Canada Post received the post 9/12, it hit the US 12/10 and that's it for now. The expected delivery date was 15 Dec which is now a cruel joke.

I guess it's to be expected when shipping from some backwater country half way around the world... I've had stuff from China delivered more quickly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

reamer41 said:


> Same story.
> 
> Canada Post received the post 9/12, it hit the US 12/10 and that's it for now. The expected delivery date was 15 Dec which is now a cruel joke.
> 
> I guess it's to be expected when shipping from some backwater country half way around the world... I've had stuff from China delivered more quickly.


My post was delivered this AM. Installed and set up, I'm going to head out on maiden ride shortly.


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

reamer41 said:


> My post was delivered this AM. Installed and set up, I'm going to head out on maiden ride shortly.


Awesome! Yes, the wait sucked. But, so far it was worth it. My install went smoothly and my first ride on it was even better. I went with the 1x trigger and the action is smooth and the post feels solid. No play, but I'm interested to see if it'll develop any play down the line. My only other experience with a dropper was with the OG Thomson elite and it was excellent out the gate, but did develop some slop after a yr. Not sure what it is, but the fall line feels legit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Maiden ride didn't work out so well. The post was fine! Rock solid!
But the trails and even dirt roads were too muddy and/or slushy to ride on. So just did a pavement spin. Riding here will suck for at least a week... Unless I travel a little. Hmm. Sedona is calling. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Installed my Fall Line yesterday, and got a first ride (23+ miles) in today. Initial impressions were all positive. The installation was not the easiest, but if you can follow directions, its a snap. The Pinkbike review had me concerned about putting it on myself, but the biggest concern was making sure to not lose the two TINY set screws for the cable. LOVE not having to worry about dealing with hydraulics and bleeds, especially when I'll break down the bike to travel.

Post itself works really well. Like the action of the lever and post. There is no side to side movement in the saddle, unlike the Reverb and Kind Shocks I've run in the past. I'd like a louder 'thunk' when the post returns to full extension, but that's a _minor_ quibble. Its nerdy, but the seat clamp is the nicest I've ever used. Love that tilt and fore-aft saddle adjustment are independent of each other, and as a side benefit, adjusting the air pressure for the post is not a chore at all. Looks to be far more robust as well. Never weighed mine, and didn't care.

The little customer service I've dealt with so far has been outstanding as well. 9point8 was super helpful _before_ buying and have been forthcoming with details as needed. Worst issue is that they can't keep up with demand, so if you want one, you'll need to be patient.

*If* the post stays reliable, 9point8 has the best dropper out there in my opinion.


----------



## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Do you guys consider the Fall Line an upgrade from the Reverb? Difference in weight?

Any way to route the lever cable from the bottom of the handler like the reverb? I don't like it sticking out from the top.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

I think reverb when it's working has a nice feel to it. The thunk mentions by others is better imo. I've just had a few problems with it already and none with the fall line so durability trumps thunk!


----------



## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Do you guys consider the Fall Line an upgrade from the Reverb? Difference in weight?
> 
> Any way to route the lever cable from the bottom of the handler like the reverb? I don't like it sticking out from the top.


I hate to answer the first question, because my recent memories of my Reverb aren't good; some of that comes from it being older and needing maintenance, and not wanting to the throw money down a pit on it. With that said, I'm liking the lack of hydraulics a huge plus, as the action on the Fall Line is outstanding currently.

You can mount it below the bar (photo below of where mine is currently), and they have an optional adaptor to make the remote fit more inline with where an shifter would sit. I can't confirm, but I'm pretty sure others have run 3rd party remotes. It seems like they would work (or the FD shifter hack as well) as the stubby end of the shifter cable sits in the remote, not the post.


----------



## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

Any lever recommendations besides the KS southpaw?

Looking for short throw lever under the bar with housing running parallel to the bar.


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Why not the stock 9.8? I mounted mine under the bar and liked it....I also ordered the 1x adapter to get it a little lower.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> Any lever recommendations besides the KS southpaw?
> 
> Looking for short throw lever under the bar with housing running parallel to the bar.


I would think the best match would be the soon to be released RaceFace 1x hop-up lever as it was designed for the cable pull force and travel of the Turbine seatpost, same as the Fall Line.

I have tried the Specialized 1x lever, and though it looks the part and fits nice, its leverage ratio was a poor match making the effort to push the lever very high.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I've got more than a few rides in on my Fall Line. Excellent! Granted it's new, but rock solid couldn't work any better. 

I had an original reverb and I like the lever feel vs the hydraulic button on the reverb. Post is more responsive in both directions. 

I am running 2x10 drive train. I haven't found the space to mount the lever horizontally below the bar. So I have the lever mounted vertically and the cable is above the bar. I don't mind. The thing works so well...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wfo922 (Dec 14, 2009)

I just installed my fall line and paired it with a specialized 1x lever. I second jackP42 and would say it's a little stiff. Still gonna run it as its not terrible. Pretty stoked about the set up. Post is quality.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Here's a review and a bit of rebuild info I hadn't seen before....Tested: 9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post « Mountain Flyer Magazine


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

Well - was thinking of ordering one of these but I see that they are backordered - bummer. Anywho - I'm planning to get one of these or a turbine. For my two bikes I have 225mm of post sticking out and the other 260mm. I was thinking of getting the 415MM dropper post. Can anyone out there tell me what the minimum seatpost height is on one of these when fully inserted and extended? Even if yours is not 415, knowing the specs on different length posts may help. Thanks!

Oh - and if anybody has info on when the Fall Line may be available for order - I'm all ears.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Oldens Lowe said:


> Well - was thinking of ordering one of these but I see that they are backordered - bummer. Anywho - I'm planning to get one of these or a turbine. For my two bikes I have 225mm of post sticking out and the other 260mm. I was thinking of getting the 415MM dropper post. Can anyone out there tell me what the minimum seatpost height is on one of these when fully inserted and extended? Even if yours is not 415, knowing the specs on different length posts may help. Thanks!
> 
> Oh - and if anybody has info on when the Fall Line may be available for order - I'm all ears.


Here's a link to the Drawing tab for the Fall Line. This should provide the dimensions you are look for.
Fall Line Dropper Post
Seems you should be fine with the 375 or 415 versions of the 125, or even the 440x150, but you should check how much insertion depth you have in the seat tube.

I believe current lead time for the Fall Line is about 4 weeks. Contact customer service and they can help you out.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

I was on the list for Fall Line but it's been a long time without any indication of when they'll be back, so I got an Easton Haven (which is the same as the Turbine). It seems to be working great but I have not been able to ride with it yet because of the winter/mud season, but it feels really solid when testing it. Both of those posts use the Fall Line patent.


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

"Here's a link to the Drawing tab for the Fall Line. This should provide the dimensions you are look for."

Thanks JackP42 - I went right by that on the website - yup - that's the info I need


----------



## jon23 (Jul 7, 2015)

I just emailed and was told it will be another 4 weeks for the 150mm, not sure on the others. I have been on the list for 3 weeks so far.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Been on the list since December for a 150mm


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

Oldens I would email them. I wanted to order and kept looking at their website. I finally emailed and they put me on a list and emailed me when they were in stock. They gave me 48 hrs to decide if I still wanted it, which I did. I waited about 6 weeks from the date I initially emailed. 
Fantastic post, zero movement.


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

MTB Dad said:


> Oldens I would email them. I wanted to order and kept looking at their website. I finally emailed and they put me on a list and emailed me when they were in stock. They gave me 48 hrs to decide if I still wanted it, which I did. I waited about 6 weeks from the date I initially emailed.
> Fantastic post, zero movement.


Yup - I did and requested to be on the list for a 30.9 x 415 Fall Line - they said 4-8 weeks.

I have to say that as of a week ago I didn't give much thought to the 9point8 post. I was planning on a Turbine dropper. However, there's not much info on reliability on that post to date (but Pinbike noted a failure, ya I know it's same / similar mech) and this thread has been great. Also - now that I've looked at the Fall Line, in addition to early reports of reliability, I'm impressed with their website, info found there, price, and versatility of setup (lots of options for the remote and ability to swap offset and non-offset seat rail clamps). Kudos to a small company doing some cool innovation.


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

Long term reliability I'll have to see. I have at least a dozen rides on it and no issues except one that I caused. Cable tension caused the post to drop on its own but it was my fault. I corrected it and no issues after. My son has the post as well and his has been spot on with 20 plus rides. 
I'm a big guy (220lbs.) and the post has zero play unlike a couple other posts I've tried.


----------



## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I think the head mech with the separate fore/aft and saddle tilt is the best in the business. Also beefy and solid.


----------



## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

SB666 said:


> I will say that as long as the Lev is operational, the action is definitely much smoother than the fall line... Coupled with the southpaw, the Lev has actual modulation where as the fall line is basically either shooting up or locked.


SB666 and any others feel this way still? I can see this making it hard to get the post in the right spot - like from slammed down to mid-position. Does it basically just pop up too fast to control?

I do find I like to make minor adjustments to height while riding would that be tricky with the fall line?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

slcpunk said:


> SB666 and any others feel this way still? I can see this making it hard to get the post in the right spot - like from slammed down to mid-position. Does it basically just pop up too fast to control?
> 
> I do find I like to make minor adjustments to height while riding would that be tricky with the fall line?


I actually don't feel this way anymore... The post definitely breaks in a bit and the action gets better. The trigger got easier to pull and I was able to reduce the air pressure to 20psi which still returns the seat plenty fast but is slow enough to have some pretty good modulation. The lev modulation may still be a hair better, but that is with a lower return speed and I have come to prefer the quicker return over the more precise modulation while on the trail.


----------



## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Copy that - thanks for the input. Actually quite helpful!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

slcpunk said:


> Copy that - thanks for the input. Actually quite helpful!


No problem! You won't be disappointed!


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Man I love this post, but the 150 might be a hair too tall. I dont think I can return it because i dinged part of the connector and it has a small scratch plus I've used all the cables and stuff.

I also don't like it shoved down into my frame like that :\

Anyone ever tried the shims on this? Or know where to get them?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

phazedalx said:


> Man I love this post, but the 150 might be a hair too tall. I dont think I can return it because i dinged part of the connector and it has a small scratch plus I've used all the cables and stuff.
> 
> I also don't like it shoved down into my frame like that :\
> 
> Anyone ever tried the shims on this? Or know where to get them?


Contact customer service and they can get you sorted out. The shims are available in 5mm increments. Alternatively the 2 parts that change it into a standard 125mm travel post can be provided and are a bit easier to install than the shims.


----------



## fleanutz (Jan 29, 2004)

I've got a RaceFace Turnine post and it doesn't seem to hold air. I'll pump it up to 20 lbs and by the end of a 2 hour ride there's nothing left and the post won't rise to normal height. Anyone got suggestions? I emailed the place I got it from but sounds like lots of folks are getting good advice here too. 
Thanks.


----------



## jcolloton (Aug 7, 2015)

I have a Easton Haven, and from my understanding the Haven and Turbine use the same internal tech as the fall line - hence why I bought it.

I had a similar issue that I thought was air pressure related. The post wouldn't return to full height and from full height, it would drop when I sat on it.

Turns out mine was actually just a cable tension issue and I fixed it by messing with the barrel adjuster. I had made some adjustments to the seat post height, as well as I assume normal new cable stretching. After a little bit of messing with the barrel adjuster, post was operating good as new.

Just a suggestion, your problem obviously may be different.


----------



## skyval (May 2, 2006)

jcolloton said:


> I have a Easton Haven, and from my understanding the Haven and Turbine use the same internal tech as the fall line - hence why I bought it.
> 
> I had a similar issue that I thought was air pressure related. The post wouldn't return to full height and from full height, it would drop when I sat on it.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I second that. Set up and cable tension is a little finicky. I have heard of a couple of people having other issues though. It does sound like a air seal issue and not a cable tension issue. Especially if it's fine when you pump it up and it deteriorates as you ride.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Deleted


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

WoodstockMTB said:


> I love that I was hoping beyond hope that this post would be a replacement for my KS Lev (3 have had problems) only to find it has the exact same issues.
> 
> Love droppers. Hate Droppers


Can you elaborate?


----------



## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Deleted


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Ok, well what happened to your 9point8? I have not heard of anything going wrong with them yet, so that's what I was wondering. What is it doing?


----------



## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

monts said:


> Ok, well what happened to your 9point8? I have not heard of anything going wrong with them yet, so that's what I was wondering. What is it doing?


I probably opened my big mouth too soon. I was talking about my KS Lev issues not issues I had with the 9point8 which I don't own. I read a few issues that sounded like they were bigger than they were and continued to read all 7 pages only to see the post is quite problem free and avoids the BIGGEST issue of non-fixable sag (which ruined a 50mi race for me last year). So, I edited my posts to remove the remarks...carry on:madman:


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

Only issue with mine was cable tension which I attribute to my set up and my bike. My son has the post as well and his has been issue free. 
My Fuel EX cable route(around the BB and a pivot point) was part of the problem as it created unwanted tension on the cable and I didn't realize it but once I figured it out no more issues. My son's Santa Cruz cable route thru the frame has no pivots to pass so it's been perfect. 
I have over 50 rides on mine since late Nov and its functioned perfectly and still has zero play under my 220 lbs.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

Is it possible to reduce the travel of the fall line post? So the total leight of the post is lower? I am thinking 350x100 to 75 travel?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Machianera said:


> Is it possible to reduce the travel of the fall line post? So the total leight of the post is lower? I am thinking 350x100 to 75 travel?


A 325x75 is a standard size.
Are you trying to shorten a 350x100 that you already have?
The 325x75, 350x100 and 375x125 are the same post with 1 or 2 25mm spacers so it is possible to shorten a post.
Contact customer service if you want to shorten a post, or order a post with a special stroke.
25mm and 5mm spacers are available so anything reduction in stroke and overall length is possible in 5mm increments.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

JackP42 said:


> A 325x75 is a standard size.
> Are you trying to shorten a 350x100 that you already have?
> The 325x75, 350x100 and 375x125 are the same post with 1 or 2 25mm spacers so it is possible to shorten a post.
> Contact customer service if you want to shorten a post, or order a post with a special stroke.
> 25mm and 5mm spacers are available so anything reduction in stroke and overall length is possible in 5mm increments.


Yes, thank you. 
I am on the waiting list at the moment, but i have a raceface turbine dropper which is 350x100 and I am wondering if it could be reduced in travel using the 9p8 spacers.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Machianera said:


> Yes, thank you.
> I am on the waiting list at the moment, but i have a raceface turbine dropper which is 350x100 and I am wondering if it could be reduced in travel using the 9p8 spacers.


The 9point8 spacers may work, but maybe first check with RF if you can get a 25mm spacer from them and how you would install them on their post.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

JackP42 said:


> The 9point8 spacers may work, but maybe first check with RF if you can get a 25mm spacer from them and how you would install them on their post.


I called RF and they said the 350x100 dropper can not be reduced to 75. 
They seems to hint the 9p8 and RF internals are somehow different.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Machianera said:


> I emailed RF and they don't have the spacers and ended the conversation there. Which makes me think the 9P8 will work.


Yet another reason to give our money to 9point8 over RF or Easton...


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

totally. I prefer it. but it seems a long wait.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Machianera said:


> totally. I prefer it. but it seems a long wait.


Ah, I wasn't aware of the back order... That's a bummer :-( I was an early adopter and was luckily able to sneak in before the crowd! Hopefully they are able to scale up soon because it's a fantastic product!


----------



## RSAmerica (Aug 24, 2012)

**Off the Market**
For Sale:

9Point8 Fall Line Dropper Post (New)
**Never Installed**


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Hey dudes,

Having an issue with my post.
It was a nice 63 degree day in denver today. Checked my post pressure (24ish psi), adjusted the cable a bit, went out for a test ride and it was bomb proof. Didn't slip, locked all the way down etc.

Put the bike on the car and drove to the trails. Post gets cold. Does not lock all the way down, slips a bunch when the rear hits bumps on climbs etc. Im guessing the windchill brought the post down to 40 ish degrees when on top of the car? Maybe even less, it was shady and windy.

What does everyone do in this situation? I tried adjusting the cable with the barrel adjuster again since it got kinda tight. No bueno.

thanks


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Although everyone's shock pump is slightly different, 24 psi is a lot on my pump and will make my post act like that. I'm hovering around 15 psi.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

phazedalx said:


> Hey dudes,
> 
> Having an issue with my post.
> It was a nice 63 degree day in denver today. Checked my post pressure (24ish psi), adjusted the cable a bit, went out for a test ride and it was bomb proof. Didn't slip, locked all the way down etc.
> ...


Hold the lever down all the way for a few seconds. This allows the internals to compensate for significant temperature changes. After this it should act normal again.
Doing this once in a while is a good practice to keeping the posts operation consistent.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

http://raceface.com/comp/inst/Turbine-Extreme-Weather-Usage.pdf

i dont know if these are on the fall line site, but they showed up on the race face/easton page recently. I have the Easton, mechanically, it is built exactly the same as the Fall Line. This is what Jack is explaining to you above.

However, I doubt it's from extreme weather, and I bet you just need to adjust your cable (barrel adjuster). Mine did exactly what you are describing. Keep trying and find the exact sweet spot for free play and proper functioning. It took me a few times to figure this out but now that I understand how it works I have it dialed in perfectly. Also, you may want to look underneath and make sure your T connector is still below the halfway mark and did not slide up, etc. I found that to be crucial.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

monts said:


> http://raceface.com/comp/inst/Turbine-Extreme-Weather-Usage.pdf
> 
> i dont know if these are on the fall line site, but they showed up on the race face/easton page recently. I have the Easton, mechanically, it is built exactly the same as the Fall Line. This is what Jack is explaining to you above.
> 
> However, I doubt it's from extreme weather, and I bet you just need to adjust your cable (barrel adjuster). Mine did exactly what you are describing. Keep trying and find the exact sweet spot for free play and proper functioning. It took me a few times to figure this out but now that I understand how it works I have it dialed in perfectly. Also, you may want to look underneath and make sure your T connector is still below the halfway mark and did not slide up, etc. I found that to be crucial.


Be sure to check cable free play both with the post fully raised and fully slammed down. It may not be exactly the same. Go with setting the cable free play at the position that has the cable the tightest.
Too much free play is not an operational problem, too little will rob the post of its holding capacity.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

JackP42 said:


> Be sure to check cable free play both with the post fully raised and fully slammed down. It may not be exactly the same. Go with setting the cable free play at the position that has the cable the tightest.
> Too much free play is not an operational problem, too little will rob the post of its holding capacity.


Yes, this too!! Exactly!! I had to experiment with my adjustments with the post up and down!


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

monts said:


> http://raceface.com/comp/inst/Turbine-Extreme-Weather-Usage.pdf
> 
> i dont know if these are on the fall line site, but they showed up on the race face/easton page recently. I have the Easton, mechanically, it is built exactly the same as the Fall Line. This is what Jack is explaining to you above.
> 
> However, I doubt it's from extreme weather, and I bet you just need to adjust your cable (barrel adjuster). Mine did exactly what you are describing. Keep trying and find the exact sweet spot for free play and proper functioning. It took me a few times to figure this out but now that I understand how it works I have it dialed in perfectly. Also, you may want to look underneath and make sure your T connector is still below the halfway mark and did not slide up, etc. I found that to be crucial.


Do you measure the t-connector middle at the top of the t connector or the middle of it? It was hard to see what the guy was doing in the fall line install video.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

phazedalx said:


> Do you measure the t-connector middle at the top of the t connector or the middle of it? It was hard to see what the guy was doing in the fall line install video.


Middle at the top for sure, if that's what you mean.

In other words, you want the body of that T connector BELOW the halfway line before you tighten the two small bolts to hold it in place. And make sure it stays there! Don't ask me why i know, haha!


----------



## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

I installed the RF version last night using an I-spec shifter. Works great!

Some notes:

Remember to adjust the tension barrel to the middle before starting. Tension was super tight after installing as instructed. Took a few tries and a beer to get it sorted. Gotta be sure the lever has a little play.

Tighten the saddle rail bolts were a PIA! The thread lock they used was tough and required so much torque, it felt like the threads were not aligned. After finally tightening it up, the bolt scuffs into the its seat, creating metal shavings. I thought maybe there should be washer, but none was found. It's spec'd to 8 Nm, but I just kept getting more metal shavings as I was using the torque wrench. I stopped before reaching 8 Nm. Had to clean off all the shavings before operation. I'm guessing the 9Point8 is not like this.

It's an ejector seat! Maybe I'm just used to the Thomson Covert, but it's like a prune bruiser. I dropped the pressure somewhere below 25 psi, from 30 psi stock, and it still snaps back hard. I'll try 20 psi I guess. Also noticed that it is difficult to modulate the return, as it snaps to the height very quickly. Maybe this will change after breaking it in.

I my saddle has a carbon rail and read the 9point8 dropper does not accommodate for that. Oh well, time to hit the trails...


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Thrawn said:


> I installed the RF version last night using an I-spec shifter. Works great!
> 
> Some notes:
> 
> ...


Give it a good month of break in time, then try dropping the pressure even lower... I'm somewhere between 15 and 20 psi and it's perfect.


----------



## luxaltera (Feb 2, 2015)

I have only one gripe with this seatpost.
The two grub screws that pinch the cable are a bit too long and the hex holes are too shallow. If they thand out even a tiny bit assembly is impossible. Trying to get them to not stand out led to worn out grub screws. I had to convert a few pedal pins to replace them, which really sucked but now its perfect.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

I didnt have a problem with the actual grub screws but lining it up at the halfway point was my issue but easily corrected. I started each grub screw as even as i could and they went in without a problem. 

@Thrawn: You can definitely adjust the return speed with PSI settings, the post will return even as low as 5 to 10 psi if you want it to.


----------



## Coal-Cracker (May 4, 2010)

Thrawn said:


> ....
> 
> Tighten the saddle rail bolts were a PIA! The thread lock they used was tough and required so much torque, it felt like the threads were not aligned. After finally tightening it up, the bolt scuffs into the its seat, creating metal shavings. I thought maybe there should be washer, but none was found. It's spec'd to 8 Nm, but I just kept getting more metal shavings as I was using the torque wrench. I stopped before reaching 8 Nm. Had to clean off all the shavings before operation. I'm guessing the 9Point8 is not like this....


I had the same metal shavings with my RF version. There were enough shavings that I thought I had done something wrong with installation, though I couldn't imagine what. 
Not really a big deal, but I agree, it could have used a washer.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Hey dudes,
> 
> Having an issue with my post.
> It was a nice 63 degree day in denver today. Checked my post pressure (24ish psi), adjusted the cable a bit, went out for a test ride and it was bomb proof. Didn't slip, locked all the way down etc.
> ...


Wind chill doesn't really work like that. The post (no matter how the wind blows can't really be a different temp than the ambient temp. Wind chill doesn't change the actual temp


----------



## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Ok, got some saddle time on the RF version. Works great! I think it's setup just below 20 psi and it pops up fine for now. It definitely lets you know it has returned. I'll try 15 psi next. Thanks for the suggestions!

Oh, one thing. I found that the cable tension gets tight if I throw the lever all the way to the stop. It loses the lever play that it is supposed to have. Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock. To reset the tension, I would have to throw the lever again to the stop, and the play in the lever would return. Weird... If I just throw the l lever enough to actuate, the tension remains the same.

I checked the cable routing, the post connections, and all was good. Might be a specific issue when using an I-spec lever. Guessing if the lever throw is too long, the T-screw could get jammed. Just a theory. Either way, I'm happy with this dropper so far....


----------



## getvert (May 5, 2010)

I got one of the first Easton Haven droppers in December 2015. Sadly, it slips down in cold weather (since day one), and doesn't want to stay down 100%. I have been able to somewhat fix with cable adjustment / brake adjustment procedure, but not 100% effective. Also, they need to either: 1) Fix the install directions to have more free play at the lever, or 2) Create a barrel adjuster with more adjustment range. Big temp swings from warm to cold really affect the cable tension.

Besides the slipping issue, my Easton Haven has started to lose pressure after two months. Pumped it up to 30 psi twice recently, but pressure is lost after a few days. It's headed back to Easton for warranty.

I really hope they just had some initial run issues and have fixed their manufacturing or quality control. I'll report back on my warranty replacement.


----------



## getvert (May 5, 2010)

monts said:


> Yes, this too!! Exactly!! I had to experiment with my adjustments with the post up and down!


Yep. They need to either: 1) Fix the install directions to have more free play at the lever, or 2) Create a barrel adjuster with more adjustment range. Big temp swings from warm to cold really affect the cable tension. Too loose is no problem, but not enough free play at the lever = slipping down post.


----------



## getvert (May 5, 2010)

Thrawn said:


> Ok, got some saddle time on the RF version. Works great! I think it's setup just below 20 psi and it pops up fine for now. It definitely lets you know it has returned. I'll try 15 psi next. Thanks for the suggestions!
> 
> Oh, one thing. I found that the cable tension gets tight if I throw the lever all the way to the stop. It loses the lever play that it is supposed to have. Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock. To reset the tension, I would have to throw the lever again to the stop, and the play in the lever would return. Weird... If I just throw the l lever enough to actuate, the tension remains the same.
> 
> I checked the cable routing, the post connections, and all was good. Might be a specific issue when using an I-spec lever. Guessing if the lever throw is too long, the T-screw could get jammed. Just a theory. Either way, I'm happy with this dropper so far....


"Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock"... Agreed, my Easton Haven does the same thing. The free play at the lever is all over the place. Either something is going on with my mechanicals/brake, or they need to design a barrel adjuster with more range of adjustment.


----------



## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

getvert said:


> "Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock"... Agreed, my Easton Haven does the same thing. The free play at the lever is all over the place. Either something is going on with my mechanicals/brake, or they need to design a barrel adjuster with more range of adjustment.


.

I basically did the install 3 times... Each time, I reset the a barrel adjuster before tightening the grub screws. Had to experiment in find the sweet spot. What's weird is that on the third try, the T-screw was more centered than the previous tries and only had to loosen the barrel 3 notches for the proper lever feel. Good luck!


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

A word of advice about how the brake in the post works. It is like the disc brakes on your bike but backwards. With disc brakes, the brake is disengaged when you let off the lever. In this position, the brake circuit is open and allows the system to compensate for temperature change, wear, etc. With the brake in the 9point8/RaceFace/Easton posts, the brake is engaged when you let off the lever, and in this state is a closed system. When you push the lever all the way, the brake is fully off and the system has changed to open. In this state it can compensate for temperature etc. You don't need to do this even time you actuate the post, but you should fully depress the lever all the way for a few seconds once in a while, particularly if you are going through a large temperature swing. Also, do this before you adjust the cable free play.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

getvert said:


> "Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock"... Agreed, my Easton Haven does the same thing. The free play at the lever is all over the place. Either something is going on with my mechanicals/brake, or they need to design a barrel adjuster with more range of adjustment.


If your barrel adjuster is not doing anything to adjust the free play, the only thing I could think of is that your cable may have slipped out from the grub screws and it's too slack. You may want to check that.


----------



## fanatic278 (Oct 14, 2009)

I set my Fall Line up with no problems. I had to trim the cable twice, as I was playing safe on the first attempt. Been on one ride so far and all works perfectly. 

One thing that confuses me. What do they mean by 'free play'? Is it a floppy lever, or does it just mean the amount you press the lever until you get movement in the post? If the latter - then I have done it properly.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

fanatic278 said:


> I set my Fall Line up with no problems. I had to trim the cable twice, as I was playing safe on the first attempt. Been on one ride so far and all works perfectly.
> 
> One thing that confuses me. What do they mean by 'free play'? Is it a floppy lever, or does it just mean the amount you press the lever until you get movement in the post? If the latter - then I have done it properly.


It means the lever is not putting preload into the cable when the lever is released, so a little floppy at the lever. As soon as the cable has tension in it, it is reducing the posts holding capacity, though it may still be sufficient to hold and not slip. Ultimately if the function of the post is satisfactory, all is good.


----------



## fanatic278 (Oct 14, 2009)

Thanks. I also dropped a Facebook message to 9point8 at the same time. Their advice was to ensure I had some floppyness as there was "a good chance at some point I'd get some slippage". There's no problem at the moment, but I want to set it up right so I can just forget about it.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Has anyone else had any problems with your cable fraying at the top of the universal lever? There is a part where the cable rubs against the round part of the lever every time you trigger it. I've frayed 2 cables so far. They have not broke, but it was enough to not trust them and I had to do a cable change. They were cheap Novara cables that I had on hand but I didn't think it would do that. I put a better quality cable on so I'll see, but if it happens again something definitely is not right.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

monts said:


> Has anyone else had any problems with your cable fraying at the top of the universal lever? There is a part where the cable rubs against the round part of the lever every time you trigger it. I've frayed 2 cables so far. They have not broke, but it was enough to not trust them and I had to do a cable change. They were cheap Novara cables that I had on hand but I didn't think it would do that. I put a better quality cable on so I'll see, but if it happens again something definitely is not right.


No fraying with mine, but you could always try a little dab of super glue after you cut the cable.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

SB666 said:


> No fraying with mine, but you could always try a little dab of super glue after you cut the cable.


I don't mean the end that you cut, I'm talking about where the cable enters the universal lever on your bars. It's fraying right inside that little section where the cable pivots immediately after you pull it through the hole.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

No, I haven't had any fraying there. But, when changing cable/housing recently, I noticed a little stressmark/bend in the cable there. Hadn't effected any functionality for me.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Yep, that's exactly the point that I'm talking about. Right on that bend, I frayed 2 cables in there. Keep an eye on it and let me know. I put a message in to Easton and they asked for a picture of my set up, but I'm setup exactly like the install video. 

Can you all confirm that the cable runs straight through the entry hole of the lever, over the rounded part that it slides back and forth on and into the tube of the adjuster? Am I missing something there?


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

If you have the Easton/Raceface post, please start another thread about the issue you are experiencing. It is confusing.


----------



## Wareagle (Jan 28, 2009)

Has anyone had to relube their Fall Line per the video on 9point8's website:






Just wondering if I should go ahead and order the grease or if it can wait until I get some miles on the post.


----------



## jduffett (Jun 16, 2006)

Depends on conditions and usage, but as a rule of thumb I'd say yearly for re-lube. It is more cost up-front, but I'd recommend ordering any tools or maintenance parts with your post to save on shipping.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Machianera said:


> If you have the Easton/Raceface post, please start another thread about the issue you are experiencing. It is confusing.


Sorry to confuse you, there's a lot of subscribers to this thread using all 3 posts so I figured this would be my best bet at the moment. the lever I'm talking about on the Easton is a little different, and i just looked at the 9 point 8 lever and it looks like a much better set up. If this Easton frays again I think I'm going to have to get the 9 point 8 instead.


----------



## getvert (May 5, 2010)

monts said:


> Has anyone else had any problems with your cable fraying at the top of the universal lever? There is a part where the cable rubs against the round part of the lever every time you trigger it. I've frayed 2 cables so far. They have not broke, but it was enough to not trust them and I had to do a cable change. They were cheap Novara cables that I had on hand but I didn't think it would do that. I put a better quality cable on so I'll see, but if it happens again something definitely is not right.


Yes, my Easton cable frayed at the lever, because the shop installed the rotating pin backward. One side of the pin where the cable stop rests is indented for the cable end to rest in, the other is not and is sharp and will fray/cut your cable. I would check that.

See pic of incorrect installation, with pin spun 180 degrees in the wrong direction:


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

getvert said:


> Yes, my Easton cable frayed at the lever, because the shop installed the rotating pin backward. One side of the pin where the cable stop rests is indented for the cable end to rest in, the other is not and is sharp and will fray/cut your cable. I would check that.
> 
> See pic of incorrect installation, with pin spun 180 degrees in the wrong direction:
> View attachment 1064091


so it looks like your cable was going through that hole in the pin, mine doesn't. My pin and hole are facing down, when i feed my cable through it goes over it. Is that right? Wtf?


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Has anyone had to do the "post check" basically checking to see if there is an issue with the post or cable setup:



> If all else fails before e-mailing customer service it is helpful if you can determine if the problem is with the cable or the post. To do this vent the air pressure down to 0 psi. Do a brake reset by pulling on the cable housing at the back of the remote lever until it bottoms out and hold for a couple of seconds. Disconnect the cable quick connector and then put the post back in your bike frame. If the post still slips there is something wrong with the post. If it holds then the problem is in the set-up.


I did this and the post slipped when i pushed on it (disconnected, in the bike).


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

BTW, if you manage to loose one of the tiny grub screws like I did, they are available from McMaster Carr:

They are 18-8 Stainless Steel, M4 Size, 4mm Length, 0.7mm Pitch set screw.

McMasterCarr PN 92605A110


----------



## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

Has anyone received a Fall Line dropper post from 9point8 recently? I've been on the waiting list for at least a couple of months, no ETA given.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I received mine 2 weeks ago. I was on the wait list for I think 10 weeks. I received an email from 9point8 telling me that my post was ready, and that I had 2 days to confirm my purchase or it would be sold to the next person in waiting. Of course I immediately followed the link they provided to their home page and completed my purchase. Just give it time klasse. They will come through.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Hey 9 Point 8 owners, I was riding in extremely muddy conditions this morning and my post started returning slow, thought it might have been air, Got home and after wiping my bike down (around the seal of the post) wouldn't you know it springs back up perfectly fine, is that normal? There was a lot of mud around the seal but I wasn't sure if it would affect the operation of the post like it did.


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

klasse said:


> Has anyone received a Fall Line dropper post from 9point8 recently? I've been on the waiting list for at least a couple of months, no ETA given.


I just bought mine recently. I haven't counted but I think I was on the wait list for 8-10 weeks.


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

AOK said:


> I just bought mine recently. I haven't counted but I think I was on the wait list for 8-10 weeks.


I was on the waiting list for 8-9 weeks. Definitely worth the wait though. Must be nice to have a product that is too successful!


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

I was also on the waiting list about 8 weeks. I emailed them around that time and they made one available. Yes, it seems that their product is very successful.


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Just got the email this morning that I'm finally off back order, I paid and should be shipping in 3-5 days. 
I'm Stoked.


----------



## Wareagle (Jan 28, 2009)

Got a few rides on my new FL dropper and thought I'd offer this advice. Make sure you don't get the cable too tight (i.e. the lever should have what 9p8 calls some "free play"). I knew about this before installing mine, and still messed it up. 

I'd recommend unscrewing the barrel adjuster at the lever maybe 5 turns or so to ensure you can loosen the tension if needed. I installed mine with only 1 turn of adjustment, but found it was not enough. 

On my first ride the post slipped at the bottom of a dip. That's when I discovered that I could slam my weight hard on the post and get it to slip. I adjusted the tension out some, and now I can slam all of my weight down hard and it stays put. Amazing how much like 3mm of cable adjustment matters.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Wareagle said:


> Got a few rides on my new FL dropper and thought I'd offer this advice. Make sure you don't get the cable too tight (i.e. the lever should have what 9p8 calls some "free play"). I knew about this before installing mine, and still messed it up.
> 
> I'd recommend unscrewing the barrel adjuster at the lever maybe 5 turns or so to ensure you can loosen the tension if needed. I installed mine with only 1 turn of adjustment, but found it was not enough.


Yep, this is a great tip. 
The 9point8 instruction manual says to have the barrel adjuster all the way in while installing... but you're right: While installing, the barrel adjuster should be somewhere closer to the middle to allow for adjustment later.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Hi, is anyone coming off of a Thomson, what do you think. Had my Thompson for 3 years and ready for something new.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I got an Easton, couldn't see waiting all summer for a new post. The post works great, but I think someone needs to rewrite the manual. 

Set up is the same as for any internal dropper, but the mechanism that allowd the housing to float must be adjusted correctly, ie centered on the midpoint of the slider.

All that nonsense about 230mm of housing from the head tube, what are they thinking? It all depends on how far you insert the post, distance from seat tube "outlet" to head tube, and bar width.

Easy install, an hour first time, thirty minutes once you know the process.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I am patiently waiting for my friend to bring mine back for me, can't wait to get a dropper again, really should never have been so kind to sell my previous post to the guy I did because he "needed it more", will enjoy the flow a dropper lets you have on trails with downs that flow into climbs and not needing to stop and raise my post.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

So I'm you relubing my Fall Line post according to the instructions: 




My foam washer does not want to slip off of the nut like it does in this video, I notice he stresses that it can easily tear if you use tools, so I didn't attempt to force it off with anything yet, but it definitely doesn't want to separate like it does for him in the video. Anyone else have to do this yet? Mine was pretty dry.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

monts said:


> So I'm you relubing my Fall Line post according to the instructions:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are you re-lubing because of the slow return speed after the muddy ride?
I think the same thing happened to me but all I did was wipe the post down to get rid of the mud and then put some slick honey on the fully extended post and cycled it up and down a few times and then wiped off any excess and it was basically back to normal.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

pwu_1 said:


> Are you re-lubing because of the slow return speed after the muddy ride?
> I think the same thing happened to me but all I did was wipe the post down to get rid of the mud and then put some slick honey on the fully extended post and cycled it up and down a few times and then wiped off any excess and it was basically back to normal.


Yeah, I had another mud ride this weekend, I'm not sure if this is the reason for the slow return, it seems to have something to do with it. Either way, after unscrewing the nut, it definitely could use some lube down there. I'll be using slick honey because I don't have the PL10 grease, I just gotta get that washer off!


----------



## PabloGT (Jun 22, 2014)

I'd really like to get one of these to replace a creaky Lev but looking at my bike spec sheet the post is 35mm which isn't listed. Do you think I should hold out for a 35mm to be made or shim a smaller size post?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

PabloGT said:


> I'd really like to get one of these to replace a creaky Lev but looking at my bike spec sheet the post is 35mm which isn't listed. Do you think I should hold out for a 35mm to be made or shim a smaller size post?


I believe that 35mm is likely for the outer diameter of the seat tube? There are 34.9 internal diameter seattubes out there but its
pretty rare - what kind of bike are you riding? 35mm external
usually corresponds with 31.6mm internal.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

you can easily verify this with a set of calipers or even just a ruler.


----------



## PabloGT (Jun 22, 2014)

It's a Sensor and going by this thread it is 34.9mm with 38.1mm clamp

http://forums.mtbr.com/gt/2014-sensor-seatpost-question-905274.html


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

PabloGT said:


> It's a Sensor and going by this thread it is 34.9mm with 38.1mm clamp
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/gt/2014-sensor-seatpost-question-905274.html


Oh wow! Well in that case, a shim will do the trick! Cane Creek makes me for like $10


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

If anyone relubes their post and the washer is stuck inside the nut, like mine, i used a thin plastic lever to begin to slide the washer around in a circular motion and then it just worked its way out. Its soft so prying it out is not gonna work. You'll tear it easily, Definitely do not use anything sharp. All you have to do is get it moving and will slide out of there, and thats where the grease needs to go. Mine was dry, which was also the reason why it didnt want to slide out of there.


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Not pleased so far. 
Post arrived last Wednesday. Model was fall line 125mm x 31.6mm. Installation was without issue and straight-forward Wednesday night. Put 28 psi in the post, rode it around the neighborhood to set the seat up and the overall height. Thursday after work, went to load bike into truck for afternoon ride, seat post would go down, but not return. Flipped seat over, checked air pressure, was less than 10 psi. Added air-28psi. Went for ride, after about an hour in the post wouldn't return to the top position. Manually pulled the post to top position and finished ride. Checked air pressure when I got home, 8-10psi ish.

Emailed 9point8 on Friday. They sent a pdf for checking post for leaks by submerging it. Identified leak location. Recorded video of leak location sent it to them. Then radio silence, 3 emails and no response.

video of leak:


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Is that air leaking out of the bottom of the post?


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Not pleased so far.
> Post arrived last Wednesday. Model was fall line 125mm x 31.6mm. Installation was without issue and straight-forward Wednesday night. Put 28 psi in the post, rode it around the neighborhood to set the seat up and the overall height. Thursday after work, went to load bike into truck for afternoon ride, seat post would go down, but not return. Flipped seat over, checked air pressure, was less than 10 psi. Added air-28psi. Went for ride, after about an hour in the post wouldn't return to the top position. Manually pulled the post to top position and finished ride. Checked air pressure when I got home, 8-10psi ish.
> 
> Emailed 9point8 on Friday. They sent a pdf for checking post for leaks by submerging it. Identified leak location. Recorded video of leak location sent it to them. Then radio silence, 3 emails and no response.
> ...


Some people having leaking air problem with their Easton / Race Face posts, which is the same licenced design.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=1009674
Easton Haven dropper post thread


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

monts said:


> Is that air leaking out of the bottom of the post?


I'll take the post is leaking air for 500, Alex.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I'll take the post is leaking air for 500, Alex.
> 
> View attachment 1070863


Yep, I see it's leaking air for sure, but my question was: Is that the bottom of the post or the top? I can't quite tell cause of the water blur in the video.


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Um that is the bottom, opposite of where the seat mounts, I'm guessing you don't have one of these.


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

That ain't good. Looks like a warranty issue to me. C'mon 9point8, answer the guy, replace his post, and keep your good reputation going.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Oldens Lowe said:


> That ain't good. Looks like a warranty issue to me. C'mon 9point8, answer the guy, replace his post, and keep your good reputation going.


The quality of communication is still pretty great - especially compared to KS - but I've definitely noticed its taking them A LOT longer to answer emails right now than it was taking them last summer. The issue seems
prettt obvious though, they are scaling like crazy right now I'm sure. They are back-ordered constantly... Not saying it's an excuse but I do hope they can keep up their communication and stay humble with us!


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Um that is the bottom, opposite of where the seat mounts, I'm guessing you don't have one of these.


I have one, i submerged mine the other day to check, because my post was returning slowly. I only submerged the top of the post (where the air valve is) thinking that was good enough to check for a leak. Based on your video, if I experience a problem again, I'll submerge all of it.


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

SB666 said:


> The quality of communication is still pretty great - especially compared to KS - but I've definitely noticed its taking them A LOT longer to answer emails right now than it was taking them last summer. The issue seems
> prettt obvious though, they are scaling like crazy right now I'm sure. They are back-ordered constantly... Not saying it's an excuse but I do hope they can keep up their communication and stay humble with us!


Yup - I'm sure they are scaling like crazy. Way beyond what they ever expected and it's not easy to meet all of the customer demands (pre and post sale). But if they can keep customers reasonably happy their company can get a stake (maybe a big stake) in the ground.


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Got a response, and a parts shipment. 
All is better now 

So good QC check opportunity is to leak check posts before shipment.........


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Hi, debating on getting the offset or regular post. Any one have the offset post and could you post pics. Can't find a good pic of one in person. Don't know if its too much offset or not. My thomson only has 5mm of offset. So it's either 5mm less offset or 20mm more. Thanks


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

jsalas2 said:


> Hi, debating on getting the offset or regular post. Any one have the offset post and could you post pics. Can't find a good pic of one in person. Don't know if its too much offset or not. My thomson only has 5mm of offset. So it's either 5mm less offset or 20mm more. Thanks


Ohh no. No offset. Get a longer bike instead. 😉


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

jsalas2 said:


> Hi, debating on getting the offset or regular post. Any one have the offset post and could you post pics. Can't find a good pic of one in person. Don't know if its too much offset or not. My thomson only has 5mm of offset. So it's either 5mm less offset or 20mm more. Thanks











Offset vs non-offset. Look at the saddle clamp area

I guess depends on how you saddle is mounted right now. Looking at my picture, I probably could have used the 0 offset and just slid the saddle as far back as it goes and it would be at almost the same position as it is now with the set back.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks, looking at your pic, I think the 0 offset will work for me. Appreciate the help.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Speaking of saddle clamps....

Does anyone have issues with the clamp creaking? I've cleand and lightly lubed mine but the creak came back pretty quickly. 

I'm not 100% sure it's the clamp (you can almost never be sure about a creak) but I'm thinking it may be the pivot/contact got the angle adjustment. 

All clamp bolts torqued to spec. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

Judging from all that's been said here (posted) about this post, it sounds like it has a lot of problems! Certainly not in a rush to buy it.


----------



## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

Oldens Lowe said:


> I was also on the waiting list about 8 weeks. I emailed them around that time and they made one available. Yes, it seems that their product is very successful.


Not in my opinion. They don't even have a post to sell me. Almost every post in this thread is describing some sort of issue or difficulty setting up the post. Meanwhile you have a company that can't provide any replacements since they have nothing in stock. As stated, I'm in NO RUSH to buy this product.


----------



## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

Just a quick question about the clamping design: will it accept oval rails (like many carbon ones)?


----------



## Oldens Lowe (Feb 17, 2014)

klasse said:


> Not in my opinion. They don't even have a post to sell me. Almost every post in this thread is describing some sort of issue or difficulty setting up the post. Meanwhile you have a company that can't provide any replacements since they have nothing in stock. As stated, I'm in NO RUSH to buy this product.


I think you're going to find people reporting problems or shortcomings with just about every brand of dropper post (and just about every product this is FWIW). I think dropper posts are a game changer but the demands on this component are pretty high. Think about it - we all want lightweight, stealth routing, 100% reliability, infinite positioning, and is has to hold that position despite practically all of our weight (maybe more, on a landing?) coming down on that locking mechanism. If it were easy some company would have figured this out long ago.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

klasse said:


> Not in my opinion. They don't even have a post to sell me. Almost every post in this thread is describing some sort of issue or difficulty setting up the post. Meanwhile you have a company that can't provide any replacements since they have nothing in stock. As stated, I'm in NO RUSH to buy this product.


FYI - several of the messages from people complaining were actually about the RaceFace/Easton droppers (they license some of the 9.8 technology from 9.8)... people just started posting that stuff here.

I think you'd find WAY MORE positive messages here about the FallLine than negative ones.

And, in general, people with issues are more likely to post messages than people who are happy.

Anyway.... just a little perspective. But, not very useful, I'm guessing, since you're in no rush to buy it anyway.
Cheers.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

CWnSWCO said:


> FYI - several of the messages from people complaining were actually about the RaceFace/Easton droppers (they license some of the 9.8 technology from 9.8)... people just started posting that stuff here.
> 
> I think you'd find WAY MORE positive messages here about the FallLine than negative ones.
> 
> ...


Agreed, I had the Easton. Some of my posts in the previous pages were about the Easton. Since then, I found a Fall Line on the used market. Both of the installs are the same, which is why a lot of people came here for questions. After 1 month my Fall Line (with a few adjustments) is solid. My Easton is in warranty.


----------



## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Yep, people are getting confused between the Fall Line and the Easton and Race Face posts which use different saddle clamp mechanisms. I have the Fall Line. I have had zero issues and I think the saddle clamp design is the best I have ever used.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

I've got about a half dozen rides on my 9point8. No issues to speak of. Install was pretty straightforward. It goes up and down and stays where it should. Just what you want a dropper to do. No muss no fuss. 

I really like the clamp with separation of tilt and slide. It's the easiest seat post to adjust and remove the saddle that I've ever owned.


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

My KS LEV creaked non stop. I tried everything, but in the end, buying a Fall Line was the solution. You must be thinking of a RF or Easton post. Zero issues other than stone cold reliability on mine.


----------



## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

Oldens Lowe said:


> I think you're going to find people reporting problems or shortcomings with just about every brand of dropper post (and just about every product this is FWIW). I think dropper posts are a game changer but the demands on this component are pretty high. Think about it - we all want lightweight, stealth routing, 100% reliability, infinite positioning, and is has to hold that position despite practically all of our weight (maybe more, on a landing?) coming down on that locking mechanism. If it were easy some company would have figured this out long ago.


Yeah it just concerns me that 9point8 hasn't been able to sell me a post after 3 months. How will the business be successful if it's unable to sell its product? And if it goes out of business, how will we get parts or service?

I'll take a wait and see approach on this one.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Strange, I put my name down on the wait list and I have 2 rides in on my post already and thoroughly pleased with it. There was some delay it the posts shipping out and mine was to meet a friend in Miami to bring in for me, called them and the upgraded shipping to next day. CS to me has been excellent and foresee them having a very long and successful future.



klasse said:


> Yeah it just concerns me that 9point8 hasn't been able to sell me a post after 3 months. How will the business be successful if it's unable to sell its product? And if it goes out of business, how will we get parts or service?
> 
> I'll take a wait and see approach on this one.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

LyNx said:


> Strange, I put my name down on the wait list and I have 2 rides in on my post already and thoroughly pleased with it. There was some delay it the posts shipping out and mine was to meet a friend in Miami to bring in for me, called them and the upgraded shipping to next day. CS to me has been excellent and foresee them having a very long and successful future.


Same here. I put my name on the wait list 4/17 for a 150/31.6 and I had mine in 3 weeks.

I think 9point8 is starting to get caught up from the backlog, which I'm guessing had a lot to do with increased popularity for their post and ramping up for Race Face/Easton.

If the Fall Line long term durability proves out, then their biggest problem will be keeping up with demand.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Replaced my Ks Lev with a Fall Line. KS Lev works great when it works. However, getting six months from it is good, the sest clamp is terrible and it has lots of side to side motion. Installing the Fall Line was easy. Very solid. No creak. No side to side motion. My only initial complaint was that it required extra force on my arthritic thumb compared to the Lev. So I rigged and extra inch onto the lever. Now I totally love it. Requires very little thumb pressure and more sensitive to modulation. Have had the post two months and love it.


----------



## morebravo (Mar 11, 2010)

After 3 reverb warrenties I was fed up with them. Enter the Fall Line.
Took 8 days on back order and then 4 working days shipped to Tasmania, Australia!
Post was easy to install when I followed the video on YouTube and it works like a charm so far.
The build quality reminds me of a Hope product, by which I mean, it's very well made and has been well thought out. My only grip is that the remote cable goes straight out from the bars instead following the brake line, which might make it more prone to being caught on stuff when riding.
Only a small thing on an otherwise awesome product.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

No, you cant do anything about the cable position, but you can set up the ThumB remote in quite a few different configurations. Its pretty versatile


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Actually you can, you could run a different release switch, heck you could even run an old front shifter if you ruin 1x, then for sure the cable would run closer to the frame. Not too worried about how it leaves the lever, but for me lever is too short or long depending on how I orient it, will be experimenting maybe with another setup just to keep the lever out of harms way.



monts said:


> No, you cant do anything about the cable position, but you can set up the ThumB remote in quite a few different configurations. Its pretty versatile


----------



## morebravo (Mar 11, 2010)

Yep I'm with you LyNx. I'm going to give the SRAM xo front shifter mod a go. There is a great "how to" on vitalmtb.
Having said that the Raceface remote seems to have a better cable routing so it might be an off the shelf alternative as well if the mod does not go well.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

i see what you mean on the thumb lever. could it be used with a brake noodle, as the thomson was often, to try and re-orientate the cable? or the race face aftermarket lever should work as the post is simialr actuation, right?


----------



## morebravo (Mar 11, 2010)

dRjOn that is a good idea.
The race face universal one uses a noodle.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

The Raceface lever works with the Fall Line. I used it for a minute with the Fall Line when I initially got it. 

But I went with the ThumB because I wanted to run my lever horizontal under the bar.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

thanks dude.

this is the one i meant though...









i intend to use this for my 9point8 when it goes on the bike....



morebravo said:


> View attachment 1072274
> 
> 
> dRjOn that is a good idea.
> The race face universal one uses a noodle.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I am running the KS South Paw trigger with my Fall Line. Works flawlessly.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Is it just me or does the Specialized Command Post SRL lever look almost exactly the same as the RF lever(except the specialized doesn't come with a clamp)
https://specialized.com/us/en/components/command-post-srl/105103

Oh and for what its worth, I use a slightly modded Shimano XTR 10 speed front shifter for all my dropper posts and it works really well. The shifter works with the 9point8 Fall Line, Specialized CommandPost Blacklite, and the KS Lev DX. Best part is that the mod is totally reversable since I didn't file or cut anything. 
I think I posted a brief video earlier in this thread showing the shifter activating the fall line.


----------



## Vegard (Jul 16, 2009)

I have the RF post, the stock trigger is just fine imho, didn't see a reason to install the KS south paw at all. The RF 'south paw' has an outrageous pricetag.


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Still loving my Fall Line except....

I just bought a new Intense Carbine 29 and got rid of the Lev Integra that came with it so that I could fit my Fall Line on it.

There was some creaking with the Lev installed and i assume it was the post. Put the Fall Line on and the creak is still there and consistently occurs when pedaling while seated.

Now, I have not done any maintenance on it since I bought it last september. I saw the video for the lube procedure which i will do tomorrow. Has anyone had the creak and then did the procedure and had the creak disappear? 

(And as an aside, I have tried different saddles, cleaned and relubed the seatpost with carbon paste, relubed the links on the pivots and shock mounts, cleaned and retorqued the cranks. I HATE creaks, especially on a new bike.)


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

I had some creaks when I decided to move my saddle a little further back on the rails. It was definitely coming from the rail/clamp area, not the post. I played around with the rail/clamp adjustment (torque, position of seat) and no more creaks for now.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

monts said:


> I had some creaks when I decided to move my saddle a little further back on the rails. It was definitely coming from the rail/clamp area, not the post. I played around with the rail/clamp adjustment (torque, position of seat) and no more creaks for now.


Thanks. I'll play with mine some more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Anyone else have trouble contacting them, tried their email and calling, calling just says no one available to answer, they don't put your hold or to wait for the next representative, just no one's available to answer the phone.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I was having that issue until yesterday. They were responsive but it was like 1 week between emails in stark contrast to last summer where it seemed like they were replying within 30 minutes. My assumption is that they got hit with a level of demand they did not anticipate. I am sure the operation is scaling up and maybe not going as smoothly as we would all like. Yesterday the emails became more frequent. For me, it's been a slight issue which they are going to fix for me - they sent me a return label yesterday (awesome compared to KS making me pay for warranty shipping).

They have still been really cool, much more polite than KS and so I am really not faulting them too much. Hopefully they get to where they need to be so that they can have the same customer service I experienced last summer - which was a major selling point for me. Don't lose hope!


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks, was getting worried.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Don't know about right now, maybe they're super busy trying to catch up on all the back orders since the posts are now finally coming to them, but when I was dealing with them about 4-6 weeks ago their responses were almost immediate, very good CS IMHO.



jsalas2 said:


> Anyone else have trouble contacting them, tried their email and calling, calling just says no one available to answer, they don't put your hold or to wait for the next representative, just no one's available to answer the phone.


----------



## madamfunk (Jun 27, 2011)

New 9point8 about 10 rides in post stops returning fully, various PSI and cable tension levels don't help. I added some wax based lube to the stanchion as they suggest in a jiffy as an alternative to taking it apart and lubing the ring, and it seems to have gotten a little better, but not it feels like it needs a lot of effort to get down. 

Anyone else had return issues with the 9point8? (No air leaking btw)


----------



## arashi (Jan 15, 2009)

pwu_1 said:


> Is it just me or does the Specialized Command Post SRL lever look almost exactly the same as the RF lever(except the specialized doesn't come with a clamp)
> https://specialized.com/us/en/components/command-post-srl/105103


The Specialized lever is SRAM Matchmaker compatible, the RF/Easton is not.


----------



## bapesta (Feb 12, 2008)

How do I make "free play" at the remote? Should I adjust the T-connector to be seated more toward the upper side? Or lower side? 

Installed mine, it was all good at first. After quick ride, decide to add some air to make the return faster. After that, it won't lock everywhere and the remote seem to stiffer. Adjust the barrel, nothing happen.

Thanks guys


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You setup the cable with a few turns on the inline barrel adjuster near the remote, then you back those turns off until you get the free play you need/get the post to function properly. Watch the video they did and follow it carefully.



bapesta said:


> How do I make "free play" at the remote? Should I adjust the T-connector to be seated more toward the upper side? Or lower side?
> 
> Installed mine, it was all good at first. After quick ride, decide to add some air to make the return faster. After that, it won't lock everywhere and the remote seem to stiffer. Adjust the barrel, nothing happen.
> 
> Thanks guys


----------



## bapesta (Feb 12, 2008)

Cool...thanks


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Anyone here waiting for a long stroke preorder?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

LyNx said:


> You setup the cable with a few turns on the inline barrel adjuster near the remote, then you back those turns off until you get the free play you need/get the post to function properly. Watch the video they did and follow it carefully.


Yep, I was in the same boat as you on my first set up. Your going to have do the set up procedure over again to allow for adjustment. I found it's best to turn the barrel adjuster 5 full turns at set up. It may be overkill, but that will put you directly in the middle so you have plenty of room for adjustment. You'll still want your T connector at the halfway mark no matter what. And one more thing, if you have to pull the cable out, you'll more than likely need a new one because once you clamp it and cut it, it's pretty much impossible to get it to go through the hole again!


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Was having a problem with my Race Face Turbine holding air after 5-6 rides. Now it now longer holds any position just keeps popping up all the way. I have added play to the cable and even disconnected the cable entirely but it just keeps popping up. Oh well putting in the Thomson Elite regular post until these issue resolved. For the record < 2 months old and 170 miles of single track before it broke.

Is there any repair I can try before sending this back?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Steve_MTB_22 said:


> Was having a problem with my Race Face Turbine holding air after 5-6 rides. Now it now longer holds any position just keeps popping up all the way. I have added play to the cable and even disconnected the cable entirely but it just keeps popping up. Oh well putting in the Thomson Elite regular post until these issue resolved. For the record < 2 months old and 170 miles of single track before it broke.
> 
> Is there any repair I can try before sending this back?


Sounds like you have too much air pressure, what are you running? Anything over 30 psi makes mine act similar to what you are describing. 20 psi is the sweet spot in my experience.


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Probably was slightly over 30 psi yes. However even with no air pressure and disconnected from the cable it will not lock position. I believe without the cable and low or no air pressure it should lock position correct?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Steve_MTB_22 said:


> Probably was slightly over 30 psi yes. However even with no air pressure and disconnected from the cable it will not lock position. I believe without the cable and low or no air pressure it should lock position correct?


If it's not the air pressure, it's got to be the cable... And if not that, it's probably in need of a new brake - warranty. Have you emailed 9point8? Communication is a bit spotty right now but i am sure they will help sort you out.


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

It is a RF version. I did bring the pressure way down yesterday and it did not fix the problem. This evening I took out all the air, bled completely, a few times. Then I put just a cable in the alum piece that the cable is normally locked into. Screwed the alum piece in. Pulled the cable a few different times by hand and got the brake to move and now it actuates as normal free. Seems functional again just won't hold air much longer than a few rides then the post will hang up. Notice this most when leaving the bike in a car all day when it is 70 or 80 degrees out. Talking with you guys generates good ideas!


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

I suspect it needed a brake reset. To do this, depress the lever all the way and hold for a few seconds. After doing this check the cable free play and adjust if needed.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

For those of you that have needed to swap actuation cables, are you using the PTFE coated shimano cables or are cheaper cables working just as well for this application?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

SB666 said:


> For those of you that have needed to swap actuation cables, are you using the PTFE coated shimano cables or are cheaper cables working just as well for this application?


I never bothered installing the cable that was supplied. went straight to PTFE coat shimano and have not looked back.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Good stuff. It's just a shame that the cable is essentially useless if ever removed from the frame... I wonder if a dab of superglue on the tip of the cable after cutting would make it possible to remove?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Dropper posts not having much room for extra cable end, it does get a little difficult feeding in and out lines. I suppose you could make the casing shorter from frame out to your trigger to get more cable to stick out for a trim....


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I cut the housing a centimeter longer this time around, that way I figure that next time I need to pull out the cable, I can spare the 1 cm of housing and 1 cm of cable - might make it possible to make the cable last for a swap.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

SB666 said:


> Good stuff. It's just a shame that the cable is essentially useless if ever removed from the frame... I wonder if a dab of superglue on the tip of the cable after cutting would make it possible to remove?


Mark where you want to cut the cable. Remove it from the bike and clamp it a few inches from there in a bench vice. Grab it just past the cut point with vice grips and hit it at the cut point with a propane torch while twisting the vice grips and pulling lightly. This creates a clean "welded" cut much like what you see at the end of a new cable. You can now insert or remove it any time you want. Works equally well on shift cables that need to be slid in and out of the finicky guide on Sram 1x derailleurs.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Can someone remind me the torque 9.8 recommends on the seat post clamp?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

jdaigneault said:


> Can someone remind me the torque 9.8 recommends on the seat post clamp?


8-12 Nm
71-106 in-lb


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> Can someone remind me the torque 9.8 recommends on the seat post clamp?


8-12 Nm on the side ear clamps, and 5 Nm on the fore/aft tilt.


----------



## D01 (Nov 24, 2015)

Thrawn said:


> I found that the cable tension gets tight if I throw the lever all the way to the stop. It loses the lever play that it is supposed to have. Sometimes it was so tight that the post would not lock.


This has started to happen to my Fall Line today after I regreased the post. The cable is losing all slack and it's not locking, especially when pushed down all the way.

Has it happened to anyone else?

Any suggestions on how to fix it?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

D01 said:


> This has started to happen to my Fall Line today after I regreased the post. The cable is losing all slack and it's not locking, especially when pushed down all the way.
> 
> Has it happened to anyone else?
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix it?


Your barrel adjuster should allow you to dial in some slack, if it's still too tight with barrel adjuster all the way in, then you may have to reinstall a cable but when you do make sure the barrel adjuster is sitting around the halfway point during the install. I've found this is the best way to allow for enough adjustment.


----------



## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

I've noticed this from time to time on both my Fall Line and my Race Face Turbine. Not exactly sure why but after staring at the mechanism it seemed to me that the cable housing connected to the 'T' piece and the sleeve the 'T' slides in need to slide over each other. I noticed the surface of the cable housing was roughed up from I'm guessing this back and forth friction. I'm wondering if that sleeve maybe gets slightly hung up on the housing causing the brake not to fully re-engage. Just a thought. I actually put a little grease on the housing in the little screw on cover and haven't had any issues since with the brake not engaging and the cable slack has remained. Just a thought.


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

D01 said:


> This has started to happen to my Fall Line today after I regreased the post. The cable is losing all slack and it's not locking, especially when pushed down all the way.
> 
> Has it happened to anyone else?
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix it?


I have had a similar problem a few times. In my case it seems that the outer cable housing is binding up some how near the trigger resulting in no slack between the housing and the trigger. When this happens I just wiggle the housing a bit and the slack returns.


----------



## D01 (Nov 24, 2015)

Cheers guys. 
I think it's the cable housing at the post end, the plastic has stripped and isn't screwing into the T nut. I'll replace the cable and see how I go.


----------



## D01 (Nov 24, 2015)

I've had another little play around with it off the bike and I think what's happenning is the T nut is moving slightly off centre due to the worn housing outer and getting hung up in the hole threads.


----------



## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Been using my Turbine for a few months now. Slack at the lever is dialed. However, if I push the lever beyond the minimum throw to drop the saddle, the tension in the lever increases, eventually losing all slack if I throw the lever to the Max. Oddly, if throw the lever to the max after losing all the slack, the original slack in the lever resets. I guess I'll open it up and look for rubbing. Thanks...


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Thrawn said:


> Been using my Turbine for a few months now. Slack at the lever is dialed. However, if I push the lever beyond the minimum throw to drop the saddle, the tension in the lever increases, eventually losing all slack if I throw the lever to the Max. Oddly, if throw the lever to the max after losing all the slack, the original slack in the lever resets. I guess I'll open it up and look for rubbing. Thanks...


Depressing the lever all the way as you've noted will reset the brake. Note that resetting the brake this way will produce slightly different cable free play if done with the post fully extended or fully compressed down. Maybe you are seeing this with your intermediate lever push?


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

can anybody share their thoughts on frame/post interface compound? friction paste? (as suggested in instructions) anti seize? mine is going in a ti frame (no shim) so friction paste tends to make posts creak badly...


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I've used carbon friction paste and it's worked really well, but I have an alu frame, think anti seize would necessitate having to tighten the clamp down too tight or it would slip, but give whatever you have a go and if it doesn't work, get something else - I happen to have grease, anti seize and friction paste on hand, so used the recommended.



dRjOn said:


> can anybody share their thoughts on frame/post interface compound? friction paste? (as suggested in instructions) anti seize? mine is going in a ti frame (no shim) so friction paste tends to make posts creak badly...


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Has anyone tried to use a carbon seat with oval rails with one of these posts? I'm ordering an extra head with mine so I can try and have it machined to fit. Wondering if anyone else has done similar. I'm not replacing my $250 seat! I guess this is the big downside of having the side mounted clamps....


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Damn it. I KNEW when I picked up my Fall Line last spring that I should have gotten the 30.9 post and just used a shim for my 31.6 bike... And now the time has come, my new frame is a 30.9 and so this 31.6 Fall Line has to go :-( 

I figured I would just throw this out here first since there are likely people following who are waiting on their back-order. This is a 31.6 x 385 x 125 Fall line, was JUST fully serviced, so it's basically new. I had it serviced due to an air leak, but I was a super early adopter on this post and no one else has reported issues, so don't let that scare you away from the Fall Line! They did a full rebuild so good as new. I never used the Fall Line included trigger so that is brand new, you will just need to get some housing and shifter cable. Asking $340, I am located in the US and am happy to ship within the country.


----------



## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

SonomaBiker said:


> Has anyone tried to use a carbon seat with oval rails with one of these posts? I'm ordering an extra head with mine so I can try and have it machined to fit. Wondering if anyone else has done similar. I'm not replacing my $250 seat! I guess this is the big downside of having the side mounted clamps....


Just an FYI, I don't have this post, however I just tried to install an Ergon Pro Carbon on my Spesh Command Post and although the clamp is designed for round rails I could not even get it close to fitting because the rail height is lower (shorter) than my stock saddle and has clearance issues. For that reason, be sure to check the clearance of your desired saddle before going to the effort of machining that clamping surfaces.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Thanks for the heads up. I have a Selle San Marco and the rails are pretty high, higher than my WTB seats anyway. Always good to check though!


----------



## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

kitejumping said:


> Anyone here waiting for a long stroke preorder?


I have a 200mm fall line long stroke on order.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

After going through the posts it's odd no one has had issues not being able to use oval carbon rails, usually on high end super lightweight saddles. Also no one has really talked about the weight savings of the 9p8 versus the other offerings. Has anyone weighed their 125mm post by itself and compared it to their ks lev integra?


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Maybe because normally, most people running a dropper aren't running weight weenie saddles with carbon rails :skep: Also people who want 125mm> dropper, also want a reliable post and are not too concerned with weight if it doesn't feel heavy in the hand.


jacksonlui said:


> After going through the posts it's odd no one has had issues not being able to use oval carbon rails, usually on high end super lightweight saddles. Also no one has really talked about the weight savings of the 9p8 versus the other offerings. Has anyone weighed their 125mm post by itself and compared it to their ks lev integra?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

KS lev will never be a consideration over my fallline unless they do a complete redesign that makes me curious again. 

Also carbon rails are probably the last place I try to put money in for bike improvement.

I used to be a weight weenie then I started blowing parts up and realized for 6+ drops and 15+ ft gaps, I need reliability over weight... Maybe someone else help you here though


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

LyNx said:


> Maybe because normally, most people running a dropper aren't running weight weenie saddles with carbon rails :skep: Also people who want 125mm> dropper, also want a reliable post and are not too concerned with weight if it doesn't feel heavy in the hand.


I chatted with 9point8 on this and they themselves and others they know of have machined out the product to work with oval rail carbon saddles... it just voids the warranty, obviously. They are so busy with current business they haven't had time to develop a carbon saddle compatible head but they want to. Just because weight isn't important to some doesn't mean it isn't for others, we all ride different terrain and like different things. I like to keep the weight low so I can add other heavy parts (like an 11-6!) which match what I want out of the bike without creating a beast to pedal up hill. =)


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Just installed the 9point8 175 on my large nomad 27.5.

Not the simplest installation but not bad by any means. Thanks for everyone who said to leave the lever barrel adjuster half way out while installing, this helped in fine tuning the slack after installation.

Weights, for those who care:
9point8 175 with shortened cable/housing: 659g
Reverb Stealth B1 150 with shortened line: 619g

Not bad for an extra 25mm of travel!... along with all the other benefits.

Just fooled around the yard with it, but seems pretty nice!

A few notes...

-This thing is an engineering marvel, outstanding look and feel! They definitely have some talented and creative engineers at 9point8!

-The stanchion surface finish is a bit rough, not mirror like Rockshox/KS/Fox/etc. This seems to make it feel a bit less buttery smooth like the Reverb/etc, but doesn't seem to matter much, it works fine. It might wear the seals a bit faster though...

-I got the ThumB 1x lever and it takes considerably more pressure to activate the post than say the Reverb, I'd guess in order of magnitude of 10x harder or so, maybe more. Might have a sore thumb after a while if doing lots of ups and downs.

Stoked to get the seat more out of the way, it was hanging up on my shorts on some jumps at 150mm drop. Sure is low now!!


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I know that the dropper brake beds in a bit for the first couple weeks of use - I noticed that the action actually got a little better. I THINK that the lever also gets easier to pull as a result of the brake bedding. That's just what it seemed like to me because it got easier and easier to pull. My thumb might have just gotten more buff, but I have 2 bikes and the other one has a Lev - Lev trigger is definitely easier to press but the difference between the 2 isn't as drastic as when I first installed the Fall Line.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Good to know thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

You could also try the Race Face Turbine 1x lever. It is longer and should provide a bit better leverage making it easier to push.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

rehammer81 said:


> You could also try the Race Face Turbine 1x lever. It is longer and should provide a bit better leverage making it easier to push.


That looks like a nice upgrade. It has bearings and looks like a longer lever. It also sounds like you can remove the cable end from the lever without having to remove the cable from the cable housing. This would be awesome because to remove the seatpost you wouldn't have to undo the cable retainer on the seatpost end... which then requires a new cable due to being crushed from the 2mm pinch bolts.

Definitely on the wish list!


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Anyone able to measure the weight of a ks lev integra and a 9p8 falline of the same length?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gone_riding (Jun 25, 2008)

dRjOn said:


> can anybody share their thoughts on frame/post interface compound? friction paste? (as suggested in instructions) anti seize? mine is going in a ti frame (no shim) so friction paste tends to make posts creak badly...


I've always used Copaslip anti-seize assembly compound with my titanium frames with no creaking. Mind you I don't have a dropper on it.


----------



## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

I just got one of the 175mm posts for my Kona Process 153...really like it! I can't get the angle right though....the saddle is significantly angled nose up with what I think is the maxed out position. Anyone else have this issue and know of any fix?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Sounds like you installed the seat clamp interface backwards, did you follow the diagram when installing?


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

I had a tough time when I installed the 175 last week on my Nomad, I could not tell what way was front and rear! I looked very closely at pics and guessed that the the "9point8" text on the top nut went to the front and the "Fall Line" text went to the rear. Mine had the head installed already, and it's nearly symmetrical so difficult to tell. Mine also came with a pre-shortened cable so maybe mine was a return or something? Anyway, I recall the post seemed to keep wanting to twist around and face the other way, I had to force it quite a bit to stay front to the front and clamp it down. Maybe the cable/housing is twisted up a bit... could be why my button is hard to press! No one has mentioned these kind of install problems from what I can tell ?

Despite all of that the seat was able to level off fine, but close to max.


----------



## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Wow! I am dumbfounded that I failed to consider the backwards installation . Thanks a ton! Works great now!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I KNEW IT. When I bought my Fall Line, I knew it... I should have bought a 30.9 and a shim for my 31.6 frame. Well here we are, a year later and I no longer have that 31.6 seat tube frame, now I have a 30.9. Lesson learned.

I am selling a 375 x 125 x 31.6 Fall Line, recently fully serviced. 10/10 like new functionally and 9.5/10 cosmetic condition. I am also willing to trade for a 30.9 fall line, either the 375 x 125 or the 440 x 150. 

$350 shipped anywhere in the lower US, PM me for details.


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Seems kind of expensive for a used dropper. Let us know if you EBay it, sounds like great condition, being 10 out of 10.


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Includes brand new never used Thumb B trigger, but you will need housing/cable. High? I don't think so considering it includes shipping and PayPal fees and I've had it fully serviced by 9point8 less than 5 hours of riding ago. I am definitely willing to hear offers though! You are free to PM me if interested.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

What service was done?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Why did it require service? What was done? Why couldn't you service it yourself


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

I just replied to jacksonlui's PM but will just answer you hear as well - I could have serviced by myself but post is still under warranty so figured I would take advantage of that... It was losing air pressure very slowly, had to add 5-10 psi every month or so. I have had it back in my possession since servicing for over a month (though only ridden a few times), it has not lost a single psi since.

It wasn't a big deal, could have gone without the servicing but figured may as well. 

Summary of what they did during servicing:
"The post was dry and a little dirty inside. Did you try to take the bottom plug out yourself? It was under torqued. I changed all the parts in the nut, the schrader body and core as well as the seal in the bottom plug"

I am not sure what the bottom plug is, I did not attempt to work on the post myself.


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

Can someone explain to me why someone would buy a 325x75 vs a 375x125?

https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=69


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Someone wanting only a little drop for XC racing, someone with short inseam and longer torso so on a bigger frame, not enough room for more drop.......the list is long.


skyak said:


> Can someone explain to me why someone would buy a 325x75 vs a 375x125?
> 
> https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=69


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

Short people or people who are dramatically limited by the length of their seat tube


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

looks like the 325x75, 350x100 and 375x125 all have the same lower tube length and min insertion, so not sure i follow the seat tube argument, the weights are also all listed as the same? So the only benefit to the shorter stroke is that when you fully extend it stops at a lower height?


----------



## SB666 (Aug 12, 2014)

My girlfriend is 5'0", I am in the market for a 75mm dropper post for her because the seat tube lip to saddle rail measurement in her ideal climbing position is about 155-160mm. The 4" lev is around 162mm minimum seattube to saddle rail. As far as I am aware that is the shortest 4" dropper there is and it's too close to call, so a 75mm dropper is necessary.


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

To me it seems the big difference between the 3 sizes would be the length of the inner post which slides up and down. As long as the inner post can drop all the way down i fail to see what advantage a shorter stroke would have for anyone. I must be missing something.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Some already have their post as far down as it would go. An extended 125 might be too long 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

so it is really a function of whether you can get the full 190mm into your seat tube...


----------



## comptiger5000 (Jun 11, 2007)

Basically, you don't want full extension on the dropper to end up taller than your tallest desired seat position. For some people / bike combos, having the dropper fully inserted would still cause this problem with the longer droppers, so you're better off with less travel. You wouldn't use the extra travel anyway and the shorter post will be easier to use (and lighter).


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

thank you for that explanation...makes more sense to me now.
In regards to weight, 9.8 lists the same weight for all 3 options, so I am guessing they all use the same length inner post and just restrict the travel to the purchased spec.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

*Carbon seat custom fit...*

I ordered an extra seat post head with my 175 Fall Line so I could custom modify it to fit a carbon seat... which have 7x10mm oval rails vs 7mm round. After a bit of filing with a series of rat tails I was able to fit it nearly perfectly. Took some time though. Definitely doable and seems to be working well.


----------



## Wolf_ (Jul 6, 2016)

SB666 said:


> My girlfriend is 5'0", I am in the market for a 75mm dropper post for her because the seat tube lip to saddle rail measurement in her ideal climbing position is about 155-160mm. The 4" lev is around 162mm minimum seattube to saddle rail. As far as I am aware that is the shortest 4" dropper there is and it's too close to call, so a 75mm dropper is necessary.


This sort of problem is why I purchased the fall line for my bike, I needed 175mm from the seat tube to saddle rail, purchased the 440x150 which is 210mm at max insertion (after verifying that the lower tube would fit all the way down my seat tube) and the shim kit from 9.8, pulled the dropper apart soon as I received it and installed 37mm worth of "shims" in to the dropper giving me 113mm drop and 173mm rail to seat tube distance. 
I haven't noticed if any of the other dropper posts allow you to tune the extension in such a way... Worked great for me though


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

Just installed the 175 this evening. I have to say it sure feels like a quality part. Really impressed with the seat clamp and overall design. I do need to get a bit of free play in there. I should have rotated the barrel adjuster out before tightening cable, I knew better. Ill do that tomorrow, looking forward to a ride on this thing.


----------



## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Thought I'd do a brief follow up review of the Fall Line.

I received mine back in May. It was my first dropper post. It took a little to get used to it. But now I use it all the time. 

It had a small air leak right out of the box brand new. 9point8 was reasonably quick to send out warranty parts. The repair was simple and straight-forward, there was a small tear in an o-ring. 

Since that repair, this thing has been bullet proof. It never slips. I never had to adjust the cable. I haven't added air to the thing since May. It just works.

I'm a big guy, I weigh 225lbs and I'm 6'2" tall. I'm pretty tough on it too. This is mounted in my CD Bad Habit, and its seen some pretty rough east coast terrain. 

I like it alot.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I've got nearly a year of use on both my 175 & 200mm posts and still perfect function and no need for adjustments. I think I'm gonna unscrew the seal head to see if it's gotten dirty in there and regrease but that's just a preventative thing.


----------



## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

Lelandjt said:


> I've got nearly a year of use on both my 175 & 200mm posts and still perfect function and no need for adjustments. I think I'm gonna unscrew the seal head to see if it's gotten dirty in there and regrease but that's just a preventative thing.


Is your 200mm post as sturdy and stable feeling as your 175? Do you end up using the full 200mm drop on that post or do you stop short of the full drop? I'm on the list for a 200, but occasionally have 2nd thoughts that I should perhaps just get the 175. Any photos of the 200? How tall and what is your inseam? Thanks!


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

fitnessgeek said:


> Is your 200mm post as sturdy and stable feeling as your 175? Do you end up using the full 200mm drop on that post or do you stop short of the full drop? I'm on the list for a 200, but occasionally have 2nd thoughts that I should perhaps just get the 175. Any photos of the 200? How tall and what is your inseam? Thanks!


I am on the list for the 200 as well with similar questions. Having the 175 is such a game changer, I can finally ride just about everything on my local trails without pulling the allen key out. The function is butter smooth and very solid. Really really happy with this piece of gear.

There are only a few local trails I need just a slight bit more so I'm thinking the 200 will be complete dropper perfection as long as its just as solid as the 175.

6'4" 34" inseam, mounted on XL Following.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I'm 6'1" with a really long inseam. 34" pants and my 6'3" coworker can't fit on my saddle. I have a DH racing background and like to get low at times. The 200mm post is on my Nomad that gets ridden like a DH bike. Before the 9point8 I had a 150mm Reverb and a quick release that got used frequently. The 200mm post gets fully dropped on most downhills. My Bronson has a 175mm post that I can tell is taller but that bike gets ridden differently and the post feels appropriate for it. I don't notice any more wobble or different action on the 200 but it's longer and requires more frame insertion and it's heavier.


----------



## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

thanks for the reply, that's exactly what I was looking for. I'll hold out for the 200mm for my Nomad. Cheers!


----------



## DrPete (Jul 20, 2004)

Does anyone know if the 175mm will fit fully inside a XL Nomad? Based on where my 150mm reverb stealth sits I think I'd be perfect with the 175 slammed in as far as it will go but I'm not sure if I'd bottom out in the frame before I get there.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

After a few weeks of disuse, I pulled out the bike with my Fall Line. After 7 months without a hiccup I found the post had no brake effect. The thing was like a pogo stick. 
I tried the brake reset I'd heard about on here to no effect. Then I noticed the release lever was contacting the shifter clamp, prior to full throw. 

I moved the clamp over a couple millimeters, pressed and held the release lever at full throw for about 5 seconds. All was good. Back to normal and perfect action! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

I have two Fallline posts bought in Nov of last year. The posts are fantastic when working. I had one go back for warranty and it took around 6 weeks to get it back....I was a little annoyed because they questioned what was wrong even when I sent pics and video. The mast came loose which according to them has never occurred. It's now back and I have a few months on it with daily rides and it works flawlessly!
My 2nd post worked great till this week now it seems to lose air every time I press the drop lever. After 3-4 drops it has zero pressure and won't raise on its own. I emailed and have called but neither have been answered? 9point8 is a small company I know I spent a lot of time talking to them in the past and I think they are good people but at the same time it's frustrating to email with no response and call but always get a machine.

After moving to 9point8 after LEV and Reverb problems with the hope of having trouble free performance sadly I don't think this is the answer. I'm at the point where I'm not sure anyone is gonna get it 100% right.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Hopefully 9point8 gets back to you soon but until then you could disassemble the post and take a look at the seal or seals for the air chamber. It's been a while since I had one apart but my memory is that they're just o-rings so you could take'em to the hardware store and buy replacements. If it's a special seal rather than an o-ring you can at least get a look at it and inspect for damage.


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

I'd open it up but it's still under warranty since it's not even a year old and I'm sure taking it apart might be an issue. I'll wait till I hear from 9point8. 
Thankfully I still have a Reverb I can use but....just hope it gets worked out. 
I really like the Fallline but at least in my experience I've had warranty issues with two. 

I just have no idea why nobody can actually design a post that is reliable!


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Reverb and KS Lev posts are easy to disassemble and rebuild which is great because you dont have to deal with them. KS customer service has been a hit and miss. Same with many other small companies like Leatt and POC. They make decent stuff but they lack the infrastructure to offer proper post sales support. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

Where to buy 9point8 in the states? The only place I see selling it is Fanatikbike.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Chicane32 said:


> Where to buy 9point8 in the states? The only place I see selling it is Fanatikbike.


I bought mine direct from 9point8.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

reamer41 said:


> I bought mine direct from 9point8.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. They are currently OOS at 9point8.


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

I bought both of mine from them directly. If you want one you need to contact them and they will put you on a wait list as they are always trying to catch up to demand.

I was contacted by them again and after doing several suggested tests to pin point my post's pressure problem it is still not working. I'm done doing tests myself it needs to go back for warranty so I'm hopeful that is the next step and I hope I get it back sooner then the last time. Again when working the post is fantastic with no play at all.


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

So what exactly did u do? Looks like I'm in the same prickle with my wtb carbon rail volt (7x9mm), slightly less oval than urs. Lmk the process... Seems the clamping load is now on the side, not exactly how oval tailed saddles want it, ie top and bottom.


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

I haven't read through this entire thread, so maybe I missed some valuable info. 

I'm wondering if anyone has trouble with the amount of force needed to actuate the 9Point8 lever. I just installed a new one, and it takes 2-3 times more force than the LEV it replaced.
When I say 2-3 times, yes I measured it. Using a luggage scale, I pulled on the SouthPaw lever on my other bike. It took 3 lbs of force to actuate the LEV. Meanwhile, the 9Point8 takes 7-9 lbs of force to actuate. There's a range because I've tried different combinations of levers, housing, cable, mounted on the bike, mounted on a bike stand, laying on the work bench, changing the internal air pressure from 10 to 15 to 20 to 30. And there's definitely some variability with my luggage scale. But it's ALWAYS twice to three times as much effort as the LEV.

All input is welcome and appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Of all the dropper remotes I've felt (which is nearly all of them) the LEV Southpaw is definitely the lightest effort. My 9point8 1x remote feels 50-100% firmer. However, it requires less force and is more ergonomic than the Reverb remote. So yes, the KS Southpaw lever is sweet looking, light action, and uses a mounting system that is very adjustable so anyone should be able to get it just right. Too bad the post it operates isn't user servicable, has a tendency to suck air into the oil if you lift the bike by its lowered seat, and isn't available with 175 or 200mm drop.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

There is a large diy ks lev dropper rebuild post in the forums. The post can be easily broken down to the bare parts and rebuilt. Ive done it twice and the post is perfect. I had to do it to remove the air that was stuck.

The southpaw is great. The mount on the otherhand is a pos. I dont know who designed it. You'll need to add some tubing material so it doesn't shift. I also tried the light recourse cable which is also a pos. I ended up using a spare der cable which works great. Another guy online replaced the fluid with a lighter grade to increase the speed of his dropper. I used 7w which i had lying around for my fork. I had wanted a 9p8 originally but they were on backorder. Now that the wireless droppers are coming, it'll be like a kid in a candy store for us.
Im greatful for all the smart ppl on these forums because trying to get support from ks is more miss than hit.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

jm2e said:


> ... I'm wondering if anyone has trouble with the amount of force needed to actuate the 9Point8 lever. I just installed a new one, and it takes 2-3 times more force than the LEV it replaced...


That is normal. You can't compare actuation force of LEV and 9point8 due to totally different principle - while in LEV the lever opens oil port (less force required), in FallLine the lever works against strong spring which actuates the hydraulic brake inside the post (large force is required). With some different type of levers actuation force of 9point8 can be a bit lower, depends on their thumb lever-to-wire pull ratio (but longer travel in such case, of course).


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Had the same problem. Put the south paw on and still to much force for the arthritis in my thumb. So I extended the thumb trigger about one inch with a piece of aluminum and a couple of bolts. That did the trip. No more force then Lev and modulates better. 5 months with this set up.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I'll see the 9point8 guys next week and mention to them that there's some interest in a 1x style remote with less lever effort. Has anyone tried the Raceface 1x remote?


----------



## Karnage008 (Aug 14, 2016)

It wasn't available for demo at interbike, but when I spoke with 9point8, they indicated they had a new lever coming out shortly. They did have their new externally routed versions on display, including a 27.2 model.


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

I have the Race Face Turbine dropper and 1x lever. Few pointers I have found that worked for me:

- I prefer using the Jagwire coated cable for dropper control. Doesn't matter which housing it is more about the cable. When you need to refeed the cable through the small hole in the quick connect it is much easier because you don't have cable fraying.
- I had that annoying ticking noise coming from my post for weeks. If you have one of these you will know what I mean after a couple of weeks when you sit on the post. Best solution I can see so far is to remove top cap, pull back foam ring and apply grease just as they do on the 9point8 maintenance video. I used Slick Honey but you could order the 9point8 grease from them if you want. My system was very dry inside. Be careful not to over torque the nut after you put this back together you want to be able to open this back up next time and not damage the anodize finish.
- I snapped that 1x 11 barrel adjuster a couple weeks back going off trail. This piece is vulnerable in how it angles towards the ground however it is just a Jagwire barrel adjuster I picked a couple up from Art's Cyclery for <$2 each. Another reason to use the Jagwire cable if you need to replace the barrel adjuster it is much easier than the stock cable.


----------



## Uncle Huck (Nov 11, 2015)

Karnage008 said:


> It wasn't available for demo at interbike, but when I spoke with 9point8, they indicated they had a new lever coming out shortly. They did have their new externally routed versions on display, including a 27.2 model.


Did you happen to notice the drop options on the 27.2 posts?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

Uncle Huck said:


> Did you happen to notice the drop options on the 27.2 posts?


Displayed was 125mm which will likely be the longest stroke for 27.2.


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Bought the rebuild kit for my 150mm fall line and rebuilt it this weekend.

Overall, it was nice and easy job. Much easier than doing a reverb.

Pros: 
Not messy
Kit came with everything
Minimal parts to replace
Done within an hour

Cons:
The three spring loaded brass keys are a nightmare to fit and keep together. Ruined two of the springs and had to reuse the old ones. (It is difficult to see if they have properly seated into their grooves, keeping the top and bottom together.)
The foam wiper is very delicate. It was ruined on one of the attempts that ended up stretching and ruining one of the springs.
No instructions readily available from 9point8. Found some online from Mountainflyer.com?

I also ordered the small plastic three pronged seal tool and in hindsight, not sure if I would do that again. I am sure it helped guide the seal head on but it felt pricey for what it was.

Also, if you are going to do it yourself, make sure you can source some M7 threaded rod easily to make your own brake release tool. Otherwise, just order it at the same time you get the rebuild kit. I had a helluva time finding a place that actually had in stock without special ordering and waiting a week or so. It seems expensive to pay for a short piece of rod, a bole and a washer but it could save you a whole lotta time and driving around.

Still happy I have this post versus any other, though.


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

How long before rebuild? Also what were the signs you were having issues. This is my first 9point8 dropper and im liking it a lot more than anything else ive tried as long as reliability is good. I like it over the KS lev because there is no initial notch... as soon as i hit the trigger she is dropping. I also thing installation was about the easiest, nothing even slightly tricky.

However, this is a huge one... their customer service is poor, ive called, emailed and not received any response. On the flip side they shipped my order within one day so they are likely just swamped but that is no excuse.

9point8, takes notes from Ibis or Magura... they have the phones and emailed monitored all the time and about the best customer service in the industry.


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I bought it a little over a year ago, around 14 months. 

Truth be told, I don't know if it actually needed it but it was giving me a creak every few rides. I would take the sealhead off, apply some of the p10 grease and then it was fine for a couple rides. Functionally, it worked fine. I just hate creaks. 

I bought a new intense Carbine this summer and the seat tube angle is a little more slack than what it was on my old bike so I thought that may have been the reason for this creak. Or maybe it wa happening on my old bike too but there were a lot of creaks and I couldn't exactly pinpoint where they were all coming from. 

Either way, figured I should start fresh. Plus, it gave me some understanding of how it works


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

For those looking to do service on the Fall Line post, 9point8 has just posted a video detailing the steps to install the standard service kit.


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

Seems like it is cheaper to buy from Fanatik Bike as the shipping is free vs. going direct to 9point8. Any reason to not?


----------



## MTB Dad (Sep 22, 2012)

Received my 2nd post back today after warranty repair. 9point8 said they had some issues with the post as after a couple tear downs it still leaked air. I was told all the internals had to be replaced. Hope to install and try it out, my other post has been trouble free since its return from warranty repair. 
Fingers crossed I can get at least a year of riding both posts without issue. I love them when they are working...


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

MTB Dad said:


> Received my 2nd post back today after warranty repair. 9point8 said they had some issues with the post as after a couple tear downs it still leaked air. I was told all the internals had to be replaced. Hope to install and try it out, my other post has been trouble free since its return from warranty repair.
> Fingers crossed I can get at least a year of riding both posts without issue. *I love them when they are working...*


Good point :thumbsup:, I love any dropper if working ...


----------



## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

So my Turbine has been creaking too... Rocking the saddle back and forth, you can see slight play between the stanction and the seal at full extension. That where the creak was.

Dropping the saddle 1 cm eliminated the creak and the play. I rode around the block like this, trying to get it to creak, but no creak. Then would test full extension to check the creak was still there, it was. Did a couple laps with the post down a cm, still no creak. Then after extending fully again, the creak never came back. The slight play was still there, but no creak. Did something get lubed with the 1 cm drop?


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

The only way I could get the creak which sounds more sounds like a clicking to go away was to grease the foam ring as they do on the 9point8 videos. I have had two RF Turbines droppers and they both creaked or ticked.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

re the video (thanks for that btw!) - interesting the collar (and seal?) changed.


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

Ks Lev southpaw requires much more force and has a horrible handlebar mount that tends to slide around. The best is the Wolf tooth, I don't mind the fall line, w/ 1x adapter, but it interferes a bit with my brake lever.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Have you actually tried the Wolf Tech lever?


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

I have a 9point8 - rock solid for a full season now after an initial glitch (but i believe shop install/setup was the blame frankly as it was all new for them)

I also installed the RF Turbine 1x popup lever - works brilliant - light touch etc...

My buddy just installed the new wolf tooth for his Giant Contact - raving about it versus the stock setup


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

The ks southpaw works great if you stick part of an inner tube underneath the clamp so it doesnt move.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## fitnessgeek (Feb 8, 2006)

I just ordered a 200mm Fall Line and Wolftooth ReMote. Would coated Jagwire cable make this install and performance even better or should I just stick with the stock cable?


----------



## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I'm considering getting a Fall Line for mt fatbike. Annoyingly, while the bike has internal routing for gear cables it does not for a dropper so I am considering modding one of the ports to add a dropper line. 

My question is this. I know this dropper is rated for cold weather usage, being Canadian and all.., but I have not see any real world reviews of the post operation in sub zero temperatures. For those that rode with one though last winter, how did it hold up in 0-20F temps?


----------



## WI-XC (Jul 1, 2014)

Installed my Fall Line with 1x adapter last week on my new Borealis Echo. The dropper originally arrived without instructions, cables, or anything else besides the post itself, but 9point8 was quick to ship out the missing parts.

Took the bike for a test ride and it works perfect. I am not in love with the lever, so I may replace it with a Turbine or Wolftooth in the future.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

jm2e said:


> I haven't read through this entire thread, so maybe I missed some valuable info.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has trouble with the amount of force needed to actuate the 9Point8 lever. I just installed a new one, and it takes 2-3 times more force than the LEV it replaced.
> When I say 2-3 times, yes I measured it. Using a luggage scale, I pulled on the SouthPaw lever on my other bike. It took 3 lbs of force to actuate the LEV. Meanwhile, the 9Point8 takes 7-9 lbs of force to actuate. There's a range because I've tried different combinations of levers, housing, cable, mounted on the bike, mounted on a bike stand, laying on the work bench, changing the internal air pressure from 10 to 15 to 20 to 30. And there's definitely some variability with my luggage scale. But it's ALWAYS twice to three times as much effort as the LEV.
> ...


Put a new cable and housing on with a Wolf Tooth remote, smooth as butter!!


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

TheNormsk said:


> I'm considering getting a Fall Line for mt fatbike. Annoyingly, while the bike has internal routing for gear cables it does not for a dropper so I am considering modding one of the ports to add a dropper line.
> 
> My question is this. I know this dropper is rated for cold weather usage, being Canadian and all.., but I have not see any real world reviews of the post operation in sub zero temperatures. For those that rode with one though last winter, how did it hold up in 0-20F temps?


I've got a 200mm fall line on mine, while I have taken it in snow this year already it wasn't that cold out.














What I have noticed on the 175mm fall line on my trail bike, if I start a ride and it's 65 or 70 degrees out, and finish with it being 30s out, the post return gets significantly slower. I think the post will still work fine below zero, but will likely require a big pressure increase compared to what you would normally run in the summer.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Regarding lever, read the entire forum. It is addressed. I had the exact same situation aggravated by thumb arthritis. I mad an extension for the lever with a pece of metal. Attached it using short bolts thru the hole in the lever it came with. Amazing difference. Now as this force as with the KS Lev. Big usung it that way for 6 months. Better modulation too. In future may go to the Wolf Tooth lever


----------



## dngr (Jul 26, 2009)

What kind of wait time are people typically seeing? Just put in an order for a 150mm last week.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

dngr, not sure about wait time at this point in time, but I waited close to 9 weeks for my 150mm back when I ordered it. When I ordered mine, 9point8 replied to me via email confirming my order, and informed me that wait time would be 6-8 weeks.


----------



## neil_L (Nov 2, 2016)

SonomaBiker said:


> I ordered an extra seat post head with my 175 Fall Line so I could custom modify it to fit a carbon seat... which have 7x10mm oval rails vs 7mm round. After a bit of filing with a series of rat tails I was able to fit it nearly perfectly. Took some time though. Definitely doable and seems to be working well.


Hey, could you (or anyone else who's done this) provide a little more info about how you did it? And more importantly, is it still working ok? It seems like you would have to remove a pretty decent amount of material to make enough space, I wonder if it's more vulnerable to cracking/breaking

I emailed 9point8 and they suggested that they would probably make an oval rail compatible head eventually, but it's not a high priority for them. It's basically the only thing stopping me from buying one :nono:


----------



## benja55 (Aug 10, 2005)

dngr, did you get your 150 order in? I put mine in on the wait list and it already came up. Faster than I expected. Torn between 9point8 and Transfer... I've got a few days to pull the trigger.


----------



## dngr (Jul 26, 2009)

Oh eff me....

Just checked my order history on the website, apparently they sent me an email a week ago saying it was ready to be paid for. Madly checked my email, nothing in the inbox, same for the junk folder and neither in the deleted folder..

Now I guess I gotta go back on the waitlist.. Good news my order only took a couple weeks to be ready so not too too bad. I'm away for work for a while yet so not a total loss.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

benja55 said:


> dngr, did you get your 150 order in? I put mine in on the wait list and it already came up. Faster than I expected. Torn between 9point8 and Transfer... I've got a few days to pull the trigger.


I don't know much about the Transfer benja, but I've had the Fall Line for about 4 months now and it has been fantastic. No problems or even a hint of a problem. Works like a charm, and smooth as butter. I waited 9 weeks for mine, but it was well worth the wait. I'd say go with the Fall Line with no reservations.


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

Yeah, I just switched to ti railed saddle but it would be awesome if we could use carbon railed saddles with the fall line.

Carbon oval rails are not meant for side loading and I decided not to modify,

I know the race face / Easton have typical top and bottom load that is compatible with carbon oval railed saddles. However, I've heard the 9point8 is a better mechanism and such and the others are based off the design but not as reliable.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Just wonder, what is not reliable on Race Face/Easton saddle clamp 2-bolt design. This design is proven for many years and used also by many other manufacturers, e.g. by Thomson, on new Fox Transfer etc. I also haven't noticed any hint of problem for the years.


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

PeterG said:


> Just wonder, what is not reliable on Race Face/Easton saddle clamp 2-bolt design. This design is proven for many years and used also by many other manufacturers, e.g. by Thomson, on new Fox Transfer etc. I also haven't noticed any hint of problem for the years.


Clamp is fine, trivial actually, it's the dropper internals that are 'licensed' from 9point8 that are different.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Put a new cable and housing on with a Wolf Tooth remote, smooth as butter!!


I love the Wolftooth ReMote

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

m3the01 said:


> Clamp is fine, trivial actually, it's the dropper internals that are 'licensed' from 9point8 that are different.


Oh, yes, I understood you were speaking about carbon compatible rail clamp. I've got RF Turbine dropper, returned it for warranty service leaking the air, they sent back brand new one (with visible some small running changes) within a month (EU regulations on warranty repairs). It's working flawlessly now (so far, we'll see in longer period)...


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

I've been a happy 175mm Fall Line customer for the past three months, never a problem with my dropper... until today, the supplied cable snapped at the provided 1x lever. Seems kind of soon for it to break no? Looking at the stress on the cable using their 1x lever I'm not too surprised, as it bends the cable pretty far over to one side right at the anchor. I guess a few hundred or so actuations and that's it, snap!

Anyone else have this happen?

I guess I'm going to try a different lever now, any recommendations?


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

SonomaBiker said:


> I've been a happy 175mm Fall Line customer for the past three months, never a problem with my dropper... until today, the supplied cable snapped at the provided 1x lever. Seems kind of soon for it to break no? Looking at the stress on the cable using their 1x lever I'm not too surprised, as it bends the cable pretty far over to one side right at the anchor. I guess a few hundred or so actuations and that's it, snap!
> 
> Anyone else have this happen?
> 
> I guess I'm going to try a different lever now, any recommendations?


Wolf tooth


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

SonomaBiker said:


> I've been a happy 175mm Fall Line customer for the past three months, never a problem with my dropper... until today, the supplied cable snapped at the provided 1x lever. Seems kind of soon for it to break no? Looking at the stress on the cable using their 1x lever I'm not too surprised, as *it bends the cable* pretty far over to one side right at the anchor. I guess a few hundred or so actuations and that's it, snap!
> 
> Anyone else have this happen?
> 
> I guess I'm going to try a different lever now, any recommendations?


Isn't is possible to file out small amount of material and round the edge to get larger radius where the cable is bent (less stress to the cable)? I do not know the design of 9.8 lever but did so on other levers.


----------



## jminus (Sep 4, 2008)

SonomaBiker said:


> I've been a happy 175mm Fall Line customer for the past three months, never a problem with my dropper... until today, the supplied cable snapped at the provided 1x lever. Seems kind of soon for it to break no? Looking at the stress on the cable using their 1x lever I'm not too surprised, as it bends the cable pretty far over to one side right at the anchor. I guess a few hundred or so actuations and that's it, snap!
> 
> Anyone else have this happen?
> 
> I guess I'm going to try a different lever now, any recommendations?


I had this happen to me with the Turbine remote (basically same design) 3 times before I gave up and switched to a 1x remote. I think it's just a poor design that stresses the cables.


----------



## Malachi (Nov 24, 2013)

PeterG said:


> Isn't is possible to file out small amount of material and round the edge to get larger radius where the cable is bent (less stress to the cable)? I do not know the design of 9.8 lever but did so on other levers.





jdaigneault said:


> Wolf tooth





PeterG said:


> Isn't is possible to file out small amount of material and round the edge to get larger radius where the cable is bent (less stress to the cable)? I do not know the design of 9.8 lever but did so on other levers.





jdaigneault said:


> Wolf tooth


Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I do not doubt that Wolf tooth could be a good solution, however the former option is for free ...


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

PeterG said:


> I do not doubt that Wolf tooth could be a good solution, however the later option is for free ...


Free is always a plus!


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I've got a second fall line coming for my 29+ bike. I'll take a look at the lever before I mount it up to see about smoothing the cable path. 

Speaking of free, 9point8 offer free shipping right now if you post a picture of your bike on their fb page and paste in a hashtag. It's on their website. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

If I got the longer 415mm Fall Line at 125mm, I would be able to remove a spacer and convert it to 150mm if I have a need on a new bike? Also, I saw on another thread that someone had run the 25mm offset clamp backwards (to effectively steepen seat tube angle). Anyone have experience with this? Probably looks kinda goofy? I have long legs for my height and it is effectively slackening the seat tube on my Mach 6 too much.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

tadmcmichael said:


> If I got the longer 415mm Fall Line at 125mm, I would be able to remove a spacer and convert it to 150mm if I have a need on a new bike? Also, I saw on another thread that someone had run the 25mm offset clamp backwards (to effectively steepen seat tube angle). Anyone have experience with this? Probably looks kinda goofy? I have long legs for my height and it is effectively slackening the seat tube on my Mach 6 too much.


The 415x125 is not actually a reduced stroke 440x150, so there is not an internal spacer that you can simply remove to gain the added stroke. The upper and lower tubes are the same between the 2 posts, so it is possible to swap out the couple of internal parts to gain the 25mm of stroke. You can contact customer service at 9point8 and they can help you out with this if you wish.


----------



## Karnage008 (Aug 14, 2016)

I asked 9.8 about the differences between the easton/rf dropper vs the fall line at interbike regarding reliability results. As I understood, they license the mechanical function/concept, but the implementation is up to rf and easton. More specifically, I was told it may have to do with seals and QC.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

In more details: As an owner of RF I asked at 9.8 about spare parts compatibility. They told that "the design is generally the same, but _they_ don't really know where RF/Easton stand with regards to manufacturing tolerances etc, so _they_ can't guarantee fit or function. _<of spare parts>_".
My RF leaked air from the beginning, RF replaced it under warranty. I've noticed some running changes on the new one, it works OK so far since then (unfortunately there is a bad weather for biking, it still rains, so I've had no many opportunities to ride the dropper...).


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

reamer41 said:


> I've got a second fall line coming for my 29+ bike. I'll take a look at the lever before I mount it up to see about smoothing the cable path.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I took a look at the thumb lever on my new fall line. Regarding the bend in the cable, it would take more than a little work to smooth it.

The hole that the cable end drops into is a snug fit. The bend in the cable occurs only because the cable end cannot swivel in its seat. Push the lever and the cable end is forced into an orientation that is not inline with the cable path.

Doesn't seem like easy fix.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

I've got a V1 150mmx30.9 Fall line. Spent a trouble free year on my bike. Switched it to a new bike, and a creak started up about a month after install. Took everything apart at the head, cleaned and light lube. Cleaned the post where it went in the frame. Torque all to value. Still creaking. I hate creaking. Post still works flawlessly. Think it needs a main seal nut lube? Lube the threads of the main seal nut? Doesn't sound like it needs the overhaul. Thoughts?

BTW, 1 month on the Wolftooth remote and it is the sh*t. Works awesome.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I coat the seatpost with a layer of grease before installing in bike. If your frame is carbon fiber, use carbon paste. I went through a similar exercise before this worked. It's very hard to pinpoint the creak, especially when carbon fiber is involved. They should make musical instruments out of that stuff - it can carry a tune.

On another note - got a good deal on a 500x175 "blemish" at 9point8. Looking forward to trying this post. I've had 3 Kind Shock posts and all have all served well (1 warranty fix on the 150 Super Natural). The Integra that this will replace has served very well the past year and a half. I do think I will go with the Wolf Tooth 1x remote.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

azfishman said:


> I've got a V1 150mmx30.9 Fall line. Spent a trouble free year on my bike. Switched it to a new bike, and a creak started up about a month after install. Took everything apart at the head, cleaned and light lube. Cleaned the post where it went in the frame. Torque all to value. Still creaking. I hate creaking. Post still works flawlessly. Think it needs a main seal nut lube? Lube the threads of the main seal nut? Doesn't sound like it needs the overhaul. Thoughts?
> 
> BTW, 1 month on the Wolftooth remote and it is the sh*t. Works awesome.


See post #108. I had a similar problem. I'm guessing use and switching to a bike with a different seat tube angle made it creak.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Hawseman- I tried greasing it with a bunch of slick honey, (AL bike) no changes, cleaned it all off, no changes....

DrDon- I did see that post and am thinking that is the culprit. I tried to remove the nut with a strap wrench and no luck, that thing is on there! I will try again tomorrow with some bigger hardware....


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

If that doesn't work - rarely, but happens, is that the seat is worn and the rails are creaking. This happened to a rider in the Ibis forum. Sounds rare to me, though.

Good luck!


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Seat is new. I was able to relive the main seal nut leaving the post in the frame. I chiggered up the metal a bit but was able to remove it. Post is a little more than a year and needed the P10L. I was able to move the foam ring by cycling the nut by hand  and it came free. No more creaks.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Excellent work - no thanks to me. I will keep this info handy.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Got the 175mm today. I had the 4-8-12mm spacer kit ready to order, but it fit perfectly. I felt confident that my measurements all were good. The only unknown was if the post would insert deep enough into the frame. 
The bike has it's winter clothes on now - all except for the studded boots (broken in and ready). The X-Fusion stuff has impressed me considering the cost difference compared to the summer setup.
I'm happy that I have a cold weather dropper and not going without one this year. I've only owned KS (3), and won't use one in sub-freezing weather ever again. Looking forward to putting it to the test.....Thanks 9p8.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Hawseman said:


> Got the 175mm today. I had the 4-8-12mm spacer kit ready to order, but it fit perfectly. I felt confident that my measurements all were good. The only unknown was if the post would insert deep enough into the frame.
> The bike has it's winter clothes on now - all except for the studded boots (broken in and ready). The X-Fusion stuff has impressed me considering the cost difference compared to the summer setup.
> I'm happy that I have a cold weather dropper and not going without one this year. *I've only owned KS (3), and won't use one in sub-freezing weather ever again*. Looking forward to putting it to the test.....Thanks 9p8.


I was using KS Lev at -12°C (10.4°F), action was notably slower, but otherwise w/o problems.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Anyone know if the blemish sale is still on? I'm not seeing anything. Damn.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

monts said:


> Anyone know if the blemish sale is still on? I'm not seeing anything. Damn.


Contact customer service and see.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

PeterG said:


> I was using KS Lev at -12°C (10.4°F), action was notably slower, but otherwise w/o problems.


To be fair, I haven't rode the Lev in cold weather yet. The Lev Integra is a great post, imho. Both my i950 and Super Natural failed in the winter - may be purely unrelated to temperature and coincidental. Neither of those two posts worked well in sub-freezing temperatures and I don't think they were designed to.

The Fall Line was engineered to perform in a much wider temperature range. My geographical area is very similar to Ontario Canada. With only 20 miles at around 40degF on the post, I really can't conclude much yet.

I can comment that the Fall Line has no play, is solid and well designed. The Integra has some slight left-right seat wiggle - but nothing that affects riding any. Still fiddle-fudging with air, breaking in, etc., but the action on the Lev seems a little more linear to me. I'm not sure if this a plus or a minus. Intermediate positions of the Fall Line do seem easier to achieve. On winding singletracks, I like to have my seat a couple inches down (trail mode).


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Argh, lost air today....looks like I'll be submerging. Hoping it's a bottom seal - per previous post. Main seal doesn't look as easy to replace.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Tried today to get the main nut off to lubricate the foam washer. Could not loosen it using a strap wrench and the instructional video on the web site. May have been a bad strap wrench since it kept slipping. Any suggestions?


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

With the air out I have been putting the bottom of the dropper in the bike stand clamp and turning the top/nut counter clock wise with my hand with a strong grip. Last time I accidentally was grabbing too low on the nut and was fighting against the clamped based. Remember it is above the writing that turns.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks Steve, but that is exactly what I tried without success. Maybe I did not have all the air out. I did not compress it after I let the air out and empty it some more


----------



## Steve_MTB_22 (Jan 22, 2016)

You can carefully try a set of faucet pliers with the plastic or rubber jaws to help with the grip. I myself have not had good luck with a strap wrench. When you do get it apart don't overtighten when you put it back together.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Took it into a shop and they really struggled with it but eventually got it loose. Did not realize how much it needed lube until after it was done. Tried several strap wrenches. All should be called slip wrenches. Will look for a faucet wrench with rubber jaws for the future


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Well I just got hosed with my Fall Line. I went to install the Woldtooth ReMote and when I went to unscrew the Quick Connect assembly from the bottom of the post the hex part stripped in the wrench. The side walls of the assembly are so thin they just bend and the wrench gets no grip. Anyone else have this happen? It looks like it's totally screwed at this point, no way to get it out. Major bummed...


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

SonomaBiker said:


> Well I just got hosed with my Fall Line. I went to install the Woldtooth ReMote and when I went to unscrew the Quick Connect assembly from the bottom of the post the hex part stripped in the wrench. The side walls of the assembly are so thin they just bend and the wrench gets no grip. Anyone else have this happen? It looks like it's totally screwed at this point, no way to get it out. Major bummed...


Per the instructions, the quick connector is intended to only be hand tightened when installing. The wrench flats are only there just in case you can't manage untighening by hand, which normally is not required, and when it is, only requires minimal force.
Contact 9point8 customer service and they can help you get through this problem.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Ok, so apparently my Quick Connector screw got jammed in really good, and wrenches weren't used to tighten it previously. Since an open end wrench caused the nut to deform and strip I had to cut my cable at the lever to remove the cable/housing so I could get a box wrench over the cable and onto the nut, then it just barely came out with an loud snap. When I put it back in I lubed it up! 

After that it was all good, easy install for the Wolftooth, works awesome! I had to get an I-spec B mount as they're out of 22mm bar mount, but it's too close to the grip for me so will pick up the 22mm mount when/if they ever get in stock. 

This is a great setup, the smoothness of the action, the length of adjustability of the barrel nut and not having to mess with getting the cable length just right. Stoked!


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

9point8 Called me back (btw, their customer support is AWESOME) and they said I missed in the instructions where it says to lube the quick connector threads. 

Well, I watched the youtube instructions when I did mine and they didn't have that step, so FYI, lube those threads!!!


----------



## OLDFATUGLY (Apr 23, 2014)

With the under bar remote, has any one been able to keep the cable routing tight without protruding past the brake master cyl? Oh and with out binding! I am on the waiting list for my fall line and want to have everything ready when it arrives. i.e. different lever if needed.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

OLDFATUGLY said:


> With the under bar remote, has any one been able to keep the cable routing tight without protruding past the brake master cyl? Oh and with out binding! I am on the waiting list for my fall line and want to have everything ready when it arrives. i.e. different lever if needed.


Did you order the 1x converter?

While it appears you can run the lever without the 1x converter horizontal under the bar, the lever will be a bit further behind the bar, needing more thumb reach to push, and the whole lever assembly will be closer to the bottom of the bar, potentially causing a conflict with the lever cable and brake cylinder.

I can take a pic of both configurations, but did you get the 1x adapter or not?


----------



## OLDFATUGLY (Apr 23, 2014)

I got the kronolog remote. All items now installed. I Ran the remote under bar on the right side. The remote turned out nice and looks clean. I hate cables looking like spaghetti.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

I extended my lever with a piece of aluminum about one inch. Works great with way less thumb pressure. The cable housing is exactly in line with the brake housing


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Yea, you should be set, the 1x converter moves the remote down a bit and more under the bar, and more importantly the cable will exit the lever parallel to the brake line. Should be pretty clean.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I tried running my lever on the left under the bar without the 1x converter. I couldn't get full throw on the lever before it hit the brake lever clamp or clamp bolt. 

I ended up ordering the Woolftooth lever. I'm hoping I'll like the cable routing parallel to bars & brake hose more than the way it loops forward like with 9p8 lever. 
I haven't received it yet. 
The 16 for the 9p8 converter would be easier to swallow than the 60 buck for the wolftooth....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

The 1x remote's cable exit point is still perpendicular to the handlebar.... So, no, the cable does not line up cleanly with brake housing. WolfTooth remote allegedly works better.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

CWnSWCO said:


> The 1x remote's cable exit point is still perpendicular to the handlebar.... So, no, the cable does not line up cleanly with brake housing. WolfTooth remote allegedly works better.


Yea, ****, I was looking at both the 9point8 and Wolftooth on the bike at the same time and got them mixed up. The 9point8 exists mostly perpendicular to the bars, actually at a slight angle toward the stem. It's the Wolftooth that exists parallel to the bars. My mistake, sorry about that!


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

Just got my fall line--it's awesome. The cable routing with the 1x is indeed a little wierd but another option would be to get a noodle like KS uses for theirs to made the bend sharper. $6 at Jenson.

Anyways, my dropper stress is gone. With the 9point8 the travel feels smooth, the build quality feels awesome, reports are that the reliability is as good as any other dropper, it's user-serviceable, light, options for the lever, options for layback. Winners in Pinkbike and Enduro-MTB dropper shootouts. They really knocked it out of the park.


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

I've been running my 150mm dropper since March (version 1 I believe) without issues. Did the to seal lube a couple of months ago as it developed a little creaking. Everything was fine thereafter.

Now with the lower temps around mid 30s my dropper return has slowed a little. The first half of the return is quick but then it slows for the last half of the stroke.

Any ideas why this may be? Should I increase the pressure? I don't think it's a friction thing because the first part returns quick. IIRC, I aired it to a couple psi below the max stated when I lubed it. Everything else works perfectly otherwise.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

That happened to me too. Added some air and it's good to go!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Junersun said:


> That happened to me too. Added some air and it's good to go!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. That's good to know.I'll add air and see if that fixes it.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

It's very sensitive to big temp swings. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Just went to add air to the post - It only had 20psi in it. That's all I added after I lubed it as it's what I thought the max permitted pressure was. I just checked the install instructions and see it's actually 40psi max so added more air so it was at 35psi. It now rises quickly to full extension. I had to readjust the cable tension a little as it was not holding the post in the down position with the new pressure.

We've had some big temperature swings lately here in NC. It was mid 60s last week and now low to mid 30s in the mornings. So I guess I'll set it up for low temperatures and then readjust when we get into back into spring.


----------



## HillDancer (Dec 10, 2012)

With the bike fully chilled and saddle in the up position, hold the lever down for 10 seconds to allow pressure equalization. Adding air may not be needed.


----------



## teamx151 (Jun 24, 2011)

Im in the market on getting a new DP, I currently have a KS eThirty Integra that came with my bike.

I wanted to know if the 9.8 eventually gets a seat creak, like the KS I have.

Thanks for your feedback in advance.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Got tired of cartridge problems with the KS Lev and the looseness. Replaced it nine months ago with the Fall Line. So far no creak, no wobble, no looseness. It has been perfect


----------



## teamx151 (Jun 24, 2011)

gorgebiker said:


> Got tired of cartridge problems with the KS Lev and the looseness. Replaced it nine months ago with the Fall Line. So far no creak, no wobble, no looseness. It has been perfect


Thanks for your feedback. the KS is my first DP and it was fine the first couple of rides and then slowly started creaking and now I'm feeling a wobble. But it is an entry level DP from what I'm told. So I wanted to give a quality DP a try otherwise I will just go back to my old faithful Thomson seatpost.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

teamx151 said:


> Im in the market on getting a new DP, I currently have a KS eThirty Integra that came with my bike.
> 
> I wanted to know if the 9.8 eventually gets a seat creak, like the KS I have.
> 
> Thanks for your feedback in advance.


Nope. I'm a Clyde that runs a lot of post. One mine eventually creaked, but was easily remedied with a simple lube.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

teamx151 said:


> ... I wanted to know if the 9.8 eventually gets a *seat creak, like the KS* I have...


 0.1mm thin copper shim tailored for saddle clamp of KS LEV or any similar one (RF Turbine, Easton Haven, ...) stategicaly placed between clamp cradle and "moving" U-part solves any creaking issues. Lubing this parts solves the issue only temporarily, while copper shim forever. Simple and effective. Tested on my KS LEV and RF Turbine posts.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

SonomaBiker said:


> 9point8 Called me back (btw, their customer support is AWESOME) and they said I missed in the instructions where it says to lube the quick connector threads.
> 
> Well, I watched the youtube instructions when I did mine and they didn't have that step, so FYI, lube those threads!!!


Uh oh. I've never lubed my quick connector threads. Agreed, that step was never communicated.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

PeterG said:


> 0.1mm thin copper shim tailored for saddle clamp of KS LEV or any similar one (RF Turbine, Easton Haven, ...) stategicaly placed between clamp cradle and "moving" U-part solves any creaking issues. Lubing this parts solves the issue only temporarily, while copper shim forever. Simple and effective. Tested on my KS LEV and RF Turbine posts.


Do you have a picture of this. Sounds interesting


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Final shims are already mounted and I have no pictures, but I did picture for you of paper templates and copper sheet to get an idea of how it looks like. The shims are simply cut with scissors and the holes for bolts are pricked out with the tip of the scalpel.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

My post is less than 1 month old and nothing but issues with mine in cold temps! First, it started loosing air, when pumped up after in the cold, it would sometimes work, sometimes slowly loose air, today, the brake kept slipping. I tried all 3 methods for resetting the brake, nothing worked, still kept slipping under weight, with minimal air in the post and plenty of cable slack. I pulled it off the fat bike tonight and am sending it back, totally frustrated with my Fall Line.


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

teamx151 said:


> Im in the market on getting a new DP, I currently have a KS eThirty Integra that came with my bike.
> 
> I wanted to know if the 9.8 eventually gets a seat creak, like the KS I have.
> 
> Thanks for your feedback in advance.


No creaks on mine after a season of hard riding. The seat clamp is one of the best I have seen.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

My post has worked great in single digit temps and triple digit temps, for over a year now


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> My post is less than 1 month old and nothing but issues with mine in cold temps! First, it started loosing air, when pumped up after in the cold, it would sometimes work, sometimes slowly loose air, today, the brake kept slipping. I tried all 3 methods for resetting the brake, nothing worked, still kept slipping under weight, with minimal air in the post and plenty of cable slack. I pulled it off the fat bike tonight and am sending it back, totally frustrated with my Fall Line.


This has been my experience as well. I've replaced cable and housing, stripped it down and changed all seals/relubed.....I can't figure it out. The brake itself is just not clamping properly. It will hold after a reset, but further actuation will start to slip again. It also seems to clamp better over short duration, like the brake is struggling to achieve full clamp force (just like too much air or cable tension...but it is not).

It worked well for the first 5 mild-weather rides, then it lost air (~50 degF). Since then, it hasn't acted quite right. It has also been much colder - sub 30 degF.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

PeterG said:


> Final shims are already mounted and I have no pictures, but I did picture for you of paper templates and copper sheet to get an idea of how it looks like. The shims are simply cut with scissors and the holes for bolts are pricked out with the tip of the scalpel.


not worried re galvanic corrosion? i know the surfaces are likely to be anodised, but IME, this tends to wear in time from grit...probably no big deal


----------



## kadett (Dec 25, 2015)

Hello, 

I havent ride my bike for 2 months and my Fall line seat post doesnt brake. I tried all 3 reset methods but none of them helped me. Its still slipping and doesnt brake. I also tried several air pressures. Thanks for help



Lukas


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Does the post still do that when you disconnect the cable? That would eliminate any cable issues causing the brake to slip.


----------



## kadett (Dec 25, 2015)

Yes, even If I disconnect the cable!


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

You said you tried air pressure and brake reset, but did you try adjusting the cable?


----------



## kadett (Dec 25, 2015)

Of course. It has a lot of free play. Really have no idea whats wrong. Bike was last week up side down and I havent ride it for 2 months. It was in my apartment not stored in cold.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

If it moves like that with no air and no cable attached. It's broken and time for warranty (imo).


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

kadett said:


> Yes, even If I disconnect the cable!


Disconnect from bottom? (ie: remove/unthread entirely?) or just disconnect from the handlebar?

I've seen where a cable housing got snagged and made my post do that


----------



## kadett (Dec 25, 2015)

I removed the air from seatpost and removed it from bike and I can move it by hand.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Not right....

The brake should always hold by default. I would contact 9point8 for RMA. That is the "final" slip test stated on their FAQ prior to returning.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

I contacted 9point8 about my issue, they are sending me a new post today in the mail to try. I do believe I just happened to get a bad one, as I have had no complaints of the one I have on my trail bike. I will keep everyone updated.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

If you haven't already you can try a brake reset with the cable only portion of the quick disconnect connected and then pull the cable as far as it will go. This is with the post out of the bike. In some instances this is more cable pull that can be achieved at the lever and produce a more effective brake reset.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> I contacted 9point8 about my issue, they are sending me a new post today in the mail to try. I do believe I just happened to get a bad one, as I have had no complaints of the one I have on my trail bike. I will keep everyone updated.


I've sent customer service an email. Since I'm at whits end with this post, I think this one may be bad as well. I really bought this for my 4 season post. I'm hoping there is something that I haven't tried yet.....but I doubt it. Yes, and I have tried all 3 ways of reseting the brake. The odd part, is that a reset will hold very well....but once the post is moved, it will slip again. Not slipping like kadett's post. The brake always has some hold. Air is lost slowly during a ride. The only thing I can think of, is there is an issue with negative air side. When the post extend smoothly, the brake holds better. When it comes up with a bit of a drag feel (pressure differential?), the post slips more easily.

Man, you can spend a lot of time on these things.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Hawseman said:


> I've sent customer service an email. Since I'm at whits end with this post, I think this one may be bad as well. I really bought this for my 4 season post. I'm hoping there is something that I haven't tried yet.....but I doubt it. Yes, and I have tried all 3 ways of reseting the brake. The odd part, is that a reset will hold very well....but once the post is moved, it will slip again. Not slipping like kadett's post. The brake always has some hold. Air is lost slowly during a ride. The only thing I can think of, is there is an issue with negative air side. When the post extend smoothly, the brake holds better. When it comes up with a bit of a drag feel (pressure differential?), the post slips more easily.
> 
> Man, you can spend a lot of time on these things.


That's exactly what mine is doing


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Pulled the brake - oil in braking compartment. The brake assembly is a sealed hydraulic cartridge. Leaking oil both weakens the clamp force, and makes the brake surfaces slick, reducing friction. I tried cycling the brake assembly to see if there was obvious weeping. I did not find anything. Even if I did find anything, it would not be field repairable. 9point8 is sending out a new assembly under warranty. Great experience and great support for their product.

I still can't figure out why the post loses air ONLY after multiple operations (no losses or leaks with the post at rest - confirmed with submersion test). It may be that the slipping pressure causes spikes that force through the seals.....best guess. All seals and o-rings were changed (at 75 miles) with no change to leak issue. Baffled.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I installed a WolfTooth lever for my Fall Line a day or two ago. Great little lever. Very clean install with the I-spec mount. 

Happy with it so far. Much nicer feel than the stock thumb lever. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jetlau3 (Jul 19, 2015)

Quick question for the group:

I've installed my post and the brake sometimes does not hold in the middle of the travel. It holds at the top but if I try to sit on the saddle halfway, it sinks slowly.

I've checked that it isn't an issue with the brake when the cable isn't connected and the air is bled down to 0 psi.

Can this be remedied by dialing IN (tightening clockwise) the barrel adjuster to increase the "free play"?

Any other thoughts welcome.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Be sure there is some play in the cable. Do a brake reset. I find the easiest way to do a reset is by pulling and holding the cable from the lever end (my Southpaw lever doesn't quite have enough pull). There are videos on the 9point8 website and YouTube that show you how to reset.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Its import to note that the brake rest needs to happen at the largest point in the post. Due to manufacturing tolerances, some post will have a slightly big bore at one spot along the travel. First make sure your cable tension is correct and routing isn't binding.
To check if your post has a difference in bore size, depress the level so that the post can just move and cycle the post feeling for the easy spot. Then put it in the easy spot and do the brake reset.


----------



## jetlau3 (Jul 19, 2015)

To lower cable tension, screw the barrel adjusted in towards the remote, correct ?


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

good to know, im intending to use this set up...



reamer41 said:


> I installed a WolfTooth lever for my Fall Line a day or two ago. Great little lever. Very clean install with the I-spec mount.
> 
> Happy with it so far. Much nicer feel than the stock thumb lever.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jetlau3 said:


> To lower cable tension, screw the barrel adjusted in towards the remote, correct ?


Correct. You'll be able to tell where the lever engages. You should have a little free movement before you feel you need to give it a little force. I usually wind it all the way in (max slack) and use the cable pull method of resetting. Then I wind it back out until there is just a little bit of play in the lever.

Just doing a reset at the full extended position should improve brake hold. Using alexbn921's instruction will set the brake to it's optimum holding force for your post. Remember that you need to hold the seat at that easy location while you reset for that 10 seconds, as stated.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Just an update, on my second post from 9point8, still having post slippage issues in cold weather only. Inside the house it works flawless, had it in temps ranging from 10 - 20 degree f, total slippage. I'm frustrated and have tried absolutely everything to remedy this. It appears my new post might have a "creeping brake". Not giving up on the fall Line just yet, as I hear the fox transfer posts are having leaking air issues. We will see. Legs are getting tired finishing 15 mile rides with the seat all the way down....


----------



## jetlau3 (Jul 19, 2015)

Hawseman said:


> Correct. You'll be able to tell where the lever engages. You should have a little free movement before you feel you need to give it a little force. I usually wind it all the way in (max slack) and use the cable pull method of resetting. Then I wind it back out until there is just a little bit of play in the lever.
> 
> Just doing a reset at the full extended position should improve brake hold. Using alexbn921's instruction will set the brake to it's optimum holding force for your post. Remember that you need to hold the seat at that easy location while you reset for that 10 seconds, as stated.


I'm now on my 3rd cable. The post doesn't quite lock when it is depressed. It seems to hold better when fully extended but sometimes, a hard bounce on the saddle can cause it to loosen.

I'm wondering if it is still possible that there isn't enough slack. At this point, I am almost going to try again using a 1/4'' of slack in the cable. Is there any issue with having it be too slack? Barrel adjuster seems to offer very little in the way of adjustability..

Also, I've noticed that on my 9Point8, the 4mm allen bolts on the saddle clamp are very fragile. Have experienced some metal chipping even though I use nice hex keys. Anyone else?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Yes, keep the cable slack as you can in cold weather and all is well!! Also the saddle clamp bolts, one of mine gave me issues, seized up, I was able to save it and i threw some anti-seize on it and all is well since that but something to keep an eye on


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

The only issue with too slack is you might not be able to unlock/move the post. And likely will not be able to do a reset (with the lever. I've heard others pull the cable housing or something to reset the brake.)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Not very encouraging posts lately.

No issue with 4mm saddle bolts - and I've exercised them plenty. I almost always use anti seize or light grease on all threads. Nothing more frustrating than seized bolts.

I have to use the cable pull method, since the KS Southpaw doesn't have quite enough throw to bottom out the brake. Cable pull method seems to work for me.

My new brake assembly should be arriving this week. Hopefully, this will fix my issues.

A word of advice concerning lubrication of post: 9point8 uses P10L because it is tacky and the oil base doesn't tend to separate. I can confirm P10L is more tacky than Garvin Goo, Prep M and Slick Honey. This helps to prevent unwanted contamination of the brake chamber and causing slipping.
I stopped using Slick Honey on my older KS posts after having it coagulate in the bottom of the post and causing the air vents to plug. This slowed the action down until I cleaned it out (and that wasn't easy).


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

My Fallline 200mm is on its way. Last piece of the puzzle to finish off my Tallboy build.


----------



## Rootsboy (Mar 25, 2013)

Hawseman said:


> A word of advice concerning lubrication of post: 9point8 uses P10L because it is tacky and the oil base doesn't tend to separate. I can confirm P10L is more tacky than Garvin Goo, Prep M and Slick Honey. This helps to prevent unwanted contamination of the brake chamber and causing slipping.
> I stopped using Slick Honey on my older KS posts after having it coagulate in the bottom of the post and causing the air vents to plug. This slowed the action down until I cleaned it out (and that wasn't easy).


I just wondered if using p600 military grease would be a option, I have plenty of that, and it seems pretty tacky.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

I took a fall today and it seems my post twisted. My seat is pointing off center to the side by about 10 degrees. 

Question is, do I just force it back to center or is it likely that the whole post twisted in the seat tube so I just need to loosen the clamp and realign it?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Hopefully the whole seatpost twisted. Otherwise you got some problems. If it still goes up and down, loosen the collar and put is back to straight. If something broke internally then It will have tons of wobble and now go up or down.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

If the graphics on the lower tube align with saddle, the post spun in the frame. Re-align and you should be good to go.
If the graphics are still aligned to the bike and the saddle is twisted, the threaded connection between the upper tube and saddle clamp flange has likely broken loose. As this is a bonded thread, it should go back to the factory so this connection can be properly restored. Contact customer service and they can help you out.


----------



## asboites (May 29, 2015)

Got my post in the mail yesterda (30.9 with 150mm travel) The install was straight forward with only one issue being the frame that I have. The '15 Enduro size Medium has has a pivot point that gets in the way of the adapter for the dropper, which means the lowest I can run the post is about 40mm from slammed..which actually worked out great. I just wanted to get the word out in the event someone else has the same frame and was having issues with installing all the way down.

I also was able to utilize the Sram Command post trigger which was ace because I feel it is a bit better and more comfortable, plus it doesn't risk the cable rubbing issue I have been reading.

I should have a followup post once I get a few rides under the belt.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Rootsboy said:


> I just wondered if using p600 military grease would be a option, I have plenty of that, and it seems pretty tacky.


I'm not familiar with the stuff, but I've read it's used in suspensions and doesn't get oily in high heat. If it's tacky (as you state) and it doesn't tend to migrate, may be fine. If you are any good with wrenching and have a brake release tool, it's not difficult to remove the brake.

I've received and installed new brake assembly in my post. I had to thoroughly clean out the brake chamber with alcohol and clean rags. It seems to be working well. Only time will tell if it holds up. This is a 175mm and I've installed 2 - 4mm spacers (so 167mm adjusted travel). I will report back if any further issues arise.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

trail-blazer said:


> I took a fall today and it seems my post twisted. My seat is pointing off center to the side by about 10 degrees.
> 
> Question is, do I just force it back to center or is it likely that the whole post twisted in the seat tube so I just need to loosen the clamp and realign it?


This happened to me once last year. I rotated it back and had no further issues with it. Once riding season was over I sent it back to 9.8 and they warrantied the fix, but explained the logo would never line up again, that was not a concern to me. 9.8 actually recommends running the seat post clamp a little loose, I forget their torque, so in the event of a crash, the whole post rotates inside the frame.


----------



## Milky_T (Jan 23, 2017)

jetlau3 said:


> I'm now on my 3rd cable. The post doesn't quite lock when it is depressed. It seems to hold better when fully extended but sometimes, a hard bounce on the saddle can cause it to loosen.
> 
> I'm wondering if it is still possible that there isn't enough slack. At this point, I am almost going to try again using a 1/4'' of slack in the cable. Is there any issue with having it be too slack? Barrel adjuster seems to offer very little in the way of adjustability..
> 
> Also, I've noticed that on my 9Point8, the 4mm allen bolts on the saddle clamp are very fragile. Have experienced some metal chipping even though I use nice hex keys. Anyone else?


This is basically what is happening for me. I have tried working with 9point8 customer support but they are limited as to how much help they can give over email. 
Did you ever get this issue resolved? And if so how did you accomplish it?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

It seems like you have a lot of friction or binding in your cable. It's a small thing and maybe you have tried it by I only run Shimano sp-41 housing and stainless/coated cables. It doesn't take much cable drag to keep the post form fully locking out. I just changed out my buddies housing and cables after he changed the drive-train. Still wasn't shifting right. Checked hanger, it was perfect. Swapped cable/housing, problem fixed.
Disconnect the post and manual operate the cable noting the force it takes to pull it back. If its smooth as silk it's not the cable.


----------



## Milky_T (Jan 23, 2017)

alexbn921 said:


> It seems like you have a lot of friction or binding in your cable. It's a small thing and maybe you have tried it by I only run Shimano sp
> 
> Over the weekend I installed brand new housing and cable. Sill not working.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Mine is not locking when it's not fully extended. This is an cable issue. This is a weakness in the design that typically only occurs in winter and is a result of stiction. Unfortunately if you ride in wet icy conditions, and transport your bike on your vehicle in those conditions, cable stiction my be somewhat on an issue. Maybe the solution is set up the barrel adjuster with more slack than usual during the winter. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> If the graphics on the lower tube align with saddle, the post spun in the frame. Re-align and you should be good to go.
> If the graphics are still aligned to the bike and the saddle is twisted, the threaded connection between the upper tube and saddle clamp flange has likely broken loose. As this is a bonded thread, it should go back to the factory so this connection can be properly restored. Contact customer service and they can help you out.





alexbn921 said:


> Hopefully the whole seatpost twisted. Otherwise you got some problems. If it still goes up and down, loosen the collar and put is back to straight. If something broke internally then It will have tons of wobble and now go up or down.





jdaigneault said:


> This happened to me once last year. I rotated it back and had no further issues with it. Once riding season was over I sent it back to 9.8 and they warrantied the fix, but explained the logo would never line up again, that was not a concern to me. 9.8 actually recommends running the seat post clamp a little loose, I forget their torque, so in the event of a crash, the whole post rotates inside the frame.


Thanks. I've been away so have not had a chance to pull the post and check if the lettering lines up. Hopefully the post twisted in the seat tube.

It was working fine for the remainder of the ride after the crash with no slop or play so I'm hopeful.


----------



## Milky_T (Jan 23, 2017)

DrDon said:


> Mine is not locking when it's not fully extended. This is an cable issue. This is a weakness in the design that typically only occurs in winter and is a result of stiction. Unfortunately if you ride in wet icy conditions, and transport your bike on your vehicle in those conditions, cable stiction my be somewhat on an issue. Maybe the solution is set up the barrel adjuster with more slack than usual during the winter.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Right now I have given up on getting it working on my fatbike and using it in cold weather. I am just trying to get it set up on my summer bike inside at acceptable temperatures. Still cannot get it to work. I know it must just be the cable set up but I just can't believe that it is that difficult to accomplish. The reliability of the post cable set-up is a huge letdown. Anyone out there have any tips for getting these posts set-up. I have had long discussions with the 9point8 customer service and I am planning on sending it to them for service but at the same time am worried that they will just say there is nothing wrong with it and it is all got to do with the cable set-up. But if myself and their local distributor cannot get it to work then basically I have a giant paperweight.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

Milky_T said:


> Right now I have given up on getting it working on my fatbike and using it in cold weather. I am just trying to get it set up on my summer bike inside at acceptable temperatures. Still cannot get it to work. I know it must just be the cable set up but I just can't believe that it is that difficult to accomplish. The reliability of the post cable set-up is a huge letdown. Anyone out there have any tips for getting these posts set-up. I have had long discussions with the 9point8 customer service and I am planning on sending it to them for service but at the same time am worried that they will just say there is nothing wrong with it and it is all got to do with the cable set-up. But if myself and their local distributor cannot get it to work then basically I have a giant paperweight.


The freeplay on the cable all the way back into the post release mechanism is critical for these posts to work well. For riding in winter freezing temps any moisture in that cable housing could cause an issue with freezing.

Possibly one remedy would be to use a water disbursement product like wd40 in the housing or even pump some anti-freeze (coolant) into your cable housing before running the cable through. Use compressed air to get it into housing ALL the way through.

Worth trying, great post.


----------



## Milky_T (Jan 23, 2017)

I am not in the camp that thinks it is a great post. If the set-up of the cable was hassle free then I would change my mind.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Milky_T said:


> I am not in the camp that thinks it is a great post. If the set-up of the cable was hassle free then I would change my mind.


I've been through this.....and it wasn't the cable.

To test if it really is the cable - disconnect the cable, install your post and see if it holds or not. Try with the post fully extended and again at half extension. If the post doesn't hold, it's not your cable and your brake is fubar.


----------



## jetlau3 (Jul 19, 2015)

What is the maintenance on these? I used finish line stanchion spray on my Reverbs. Will that work with the fall line too or should I avoid?


----------



## Milky_T (Jan 23, 2017)

Hawseman said:


> I've been through this.....and it wasn't the cable.
> 
> To test if it really is the cable - disconnect the cable, install your post and see if it holds or not. Try with the post fully extended and again at half extension. If the post doesn't hold, it's not your cable and your brake is fubar.


I have been working with the very helpful customer service and have done the process of checking the brake without the cable attached and it does hold. Now I am suspect of the cable routing on my frames and may not be able to use it on either of my bikes. 
No big deal.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Anyone have issues with their Fall Line not holding air after just 6mo of use? I can't get mine to extend all the way anymore. About a month ago I took the top nut off and greased it with the special lube 9poin8 sells for it. Then I pumped it back up and within a few weeks it's not going up anymore. Is it possible it's worn out already? Seems like a short period of time for it to go bad. Other than this the unit has been flawless.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

SonomaBiker said:


> Anyone have issues with their Fall Line not holding air after just 6mo of use? I can't get mine to extend all the way anymore. About a month ago I took the top nut off and greased it with the special lube 9poin8 sells for it. Then I pumped it back up and within a few weeks it's not going up anymore. Is it possible it's worn out already? Seems like a short period of time for it to go bad. Other than this the unit has been flawless.


Is it a static leak (loses air even when not riding), or a dynamic leak that only leaks down when you ride?
If the post was working fine in terms of holding pressure up to when you lubed the upper nut, I suspect the static seal (the one on the outside that seals the nut to the lower tube) has an issue or the upper nut is not tight. Just speculation at this point based on the info you provided.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

The reason I lubed the top nut is because it was getting dry and I noticed the seat movement was slow, I actually had to pull it up to get all the way up again. After lubing it and pumping it back up it was working good and fast again for at least 2-3 weeks, but then I noticed it was getting slow again, and my last ride it would only come about half way up on it's own, and very slowly. It's hard to tell if it leaked when it was being ridden, I didn't really notice a problem when I sent out, but can't say for sure. I guess I'll have to pump it back up again and see. Do they really wear out after just 6mo? I don't ride that much during winter, so it's not had a crazy amount of use. I think even my old crappy reverb which I hated still held pressure for at least the first two years. I'm kind of surprised, just curious if this is normal or not.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Milky_T said:


> I have been working with the very helpful customer service and have done the process of checking the brake without the cable attached and it does hold. Now I am suspect of the cable routing on my frames and may not be able to use it on either of my bikes.
> No big deal.


Couple things to check. The t-nut that threads onto your housing needs to be perfectly square. The cable jam bolts need to be even and not stick out. I used a very light coat of super lube on the whole assembly before I screwed it in and some inside the final nut that holds the cable. It needs to slide freely inside.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

SonomaBiker said:


> The reason I lubed the top nut is because it was getting dry and I noticed the seat movement was slow, I actually had to pull it up to get all the way up again. After lubing it and pumping it back up it was working good and fast again for at least 2-3 weeks, but then I noticed it was getting slow again, and my last ride it would only come about half way up on it's own, and very slowly. It's hard to tell if it leaked when it was being ridden, I didn't really notice a problem when I sent out, but can't say for sure. I guess I'll have to pump it back up again and see. Do they really wear out after just 6mo? I don't ride that much during winter, so it's not had a crazy amount of use. I think even my old crappy reverb which I hated still held pressure for at least the first two years. I'm kind of surprised, just curious if this is normal or not.


So it is possible the original slowing down was a slow loss of air, at least partially?
I believe for the majority, the seals have held up very well, but if something get into the seal that could damage it, or if it was marginal from the get go but passed all quality checks before leaving the factory and then deteriorated from there, a leak can occur. No seal is going to last forever, particularly in a MTB environment, but of course we want it to last more than 6 months. Contact customer service and they can help you work out the problem.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Finally got mine installed tonight. Went super smooth. Fits perfectly slammed all the way to the collar. The return speed is fast with the wolf remote. If I go slow its herky jerky. I'll have to lower the pressuer or get used to being out of the way. We will see as it breaks in.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Ok, so did some testing. Looks it had dropped to 5psi at some point. I pumped it back up and sprayed soapy water around things. It doesn't leak when extended, but when fully compressed it leaks at the rear of the external top nut seal. If I coat the whole post with a thick layer of grease it will stop, but if it's just slightly dry it will leak. So it looks like the seals gave it up after 6mo. I kind of suspected this might happen as the post is not very smooth, the relatively rough (compared to fox or sram posts) must have worn down the seals in it. Seems kind of like a flaw to me, the post now requires a full rebuild in just 6mo without very many rides on it. I wonder if this is covered in warrantee... bummer!


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

SonomaBiker said:


> Ok, so did some testing. Looks it had dropped to 5psi at some point. I pumped it back up and sprayed soapy water around things. It doesn't leak when extended, but when fully compressed it leaks at the rear of the external top nut seal. If I coat the whole post with a thick layer of grease it will stop, but if it's just slightly dry it will leak. So it looks like the seals gave it up after 6mo. I kind of suspected this might happen as the post is not very smooth, the relatively rough (compared to fox or sram posts) must have worn down the seals in it. Seems kind of like a flaw to me, the post now requires a full rebuild in just 6mo without very many rides on it. I wonder if this is covered in warrantee... bummer!


Contact customer service and they will take care of it.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

New seals are 53 dollars plus you will need the seal guide. 19 dollars. Not a full rebuild. If your post is that old contact them. They had a problem with ripped seals around that time.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

Milky_T said:


> I have been working with the very helpful customer service and have done the process of checking the brake without the cable attached and it does hold. Now I am suspect of the cable routing on my frames and may not be able to use it on either of my bikes.
> No big deal.


i wonder if something like nokon housing can help if routing is an issue?


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

alexbn921 said:


> New seals are 53 dollars plus you will need the seal guide. 19 dollars. Not a full rebuild. If your post is that old contact them. They had a problem with ripped seals around that time.


I thought if it was leaking to the outside then the inner seals must be leaking as well as the outer? Or is the outer seal the only one holding the air in? I got the post around July/August 2016. Is that during the problem time? I do have the v2 top nut (no groove). Wow only $53 + shipping (which is a lot from Canada!) and export tax every 6 months, then install time. I sure hope I got a bad unit because that doesn't sound very good to me.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

9point8 customer service came through. Looks like my inner top nut seal (not the wiper) may have been damaged during assembly. The post never did return very fast from when I first got it, and didn't hold more than mid 20psi, so this may have been an existing problem that just got worse. They're going to ship a new seal, and I'll buy the tool to disassemble the unit to install it. I'm told the seal should last much longer than my seems to have, so looking forward to getting this resolved so I can just ride and not have to think about it. Awesome product with no equal!.. as long as I can get it to hold air!


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

SonomaBiker said:


> ....... looking forward to getting this resolved so I can just ride and not have to think about it. Awesome product with no equal!.. as long as I can get it to hold air!


Kind of sums up every thread about every dropper post ever.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

SonomaBiker said:


> 9point8 customer service came through. Looks like my inner top nut seal (not the wiper) may have been damaged during assembly. The post never did return very fast from when I first got it, and didn't hold more than mid 20psi, so this may have been an existing problem that just got worse. They're going to ship a new seal, and I'll buy the tool to disassemble the unit to install it. I'm told the seal should last much longer than my seems to have, so looking forward to getting this resolved so I can just ride and not have to think about it. Awesome product with no equal!.. as long as I can get it to hold air!


Awsome. Great to hear that they came threw. All my dealings with them have been positive. info about the seals.
Tested: 9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post « Mountain Flyer Magazine


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

I received a replacement post from 9.8 on Thursday. I have been on 4 rides with no loss of air or post slippage. Curtis from customer service was very helpful, these guys are the best when it comes to making things right. I have ridden in temps down to 25 degrees f, and no issues as of yet. I want to really test this post in colder weather, looks like we're expecting that Monday or Tuesday. So far so good. I can't say enough for 9.8's commitment to keeping customers, I did not give up on them, and I think I might be in the clear. One good cold ride will tell. I did ditch my sram internal cable housing and installed a jag wire coated cable, plus a wolf tooth remote. Seems like far less cable drag. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> I received a replacement post from 9.8 on Thursday. I have been on 4 rides with no loss of air or post slippage. Curtis from customer service was very helpful, these guys are the best when it comes to making things right. I have ridden in temps down to 25 degrees f, and no issues as of yet. I want to really test this post in colder weather, looks like we're expecting that Monday or Tuesday. So far so good. I can't say enough for 9.8's commitment to keeping customers, I did not give up on them, and I think I might be in the clear. One good cold ride will tell. I did ditch my sram internal cable housing and installed a jag wire coated cable, plus a wolf tooth remote. Seems like far less cable drag. I'll keep you posted.


That's good to hear, jdaigneault. My situation the same, as it has been throughout. My new brake assembly seems to be working very well and air is holding after 3 long snow rides. Being a fellow New Englander, I'm experiencing the same, higher-than-normal temperatures. I don't see any real cold conditions in my forecast at all. That is a bummer, since I love hard-pack, icy trails.....great fun (when you have a good dropper post).


----------



## dngr (Jul 26, 2009)

Picked up a 175 Fall Line a few weeks ago and so far so good. Install was painless, other than not having proper cable housing cutters but that's on me haha. It's just on the edge of being too much post for me and my frame (Large 2017 Patrol) and I could have gone with a 150 for more flexibility but it feels good to finally have full leg extension. A Wolftooth remote would be nice but I have no issues with the stock thumb remote.

Oh, and it feels good to buy from a Canadian company


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Well, replacement posted lasted 3 rides perfect, temps ranging from 25-32 degrees farenheight. Last nights ride was around 18 degrees, half way into ride post was not fully returning, very slow to halfway. I think it lost air because as you pushed down to lower the seat there was little resistance. Put a few pumps of air into in, pump was returning great, however now it's slipping again. I'm going to loose my **** if I don't get this issue resolved.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> Well, replacement posted lasted 3 rides perfect, temps ranging from 25-32 degrees farenheight. Last nights ride was around 18 degrees, half way into ride post was not fully returning, very slow to halfway. I think it lost air because as you pushed down to lower the seat there was little resistance. Put a few pumps of air into in, pump was returning great, however now it's slipping again. I'm going to loose my **** if I don't get this issue resolved.


Damn....you haven't lost it yet?

Mine made it last night - same temps (few degrees cooler). It performed a little slower, but held solid and air is good. I had a little ice build-up on the stanchion, at the collar seal.

Did a reset?

I find I need to reset with cable pull method. The Southpaw, when I leave enough slack, doesn't have enough throw to bottom out the brake. I haven't needed to reset my new brake assembly.


----------



## acer66 (Oct 13, 2010)

Bummer, I am finally ready to get my first dropper and I thought this would be the one.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

acer66 said:


> Bummer, I am finally ready to get my first dropper and I thought this would be the one.


It still should be. By far the most reliable, easiest to service dropper on the market.
Other than gravity dropper of course.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

alexbn921 said:


> It still should be. By far the most reliable, easiest to service dropper on the market.
> Other than gravity dropper of course.


3 new 9point8 fall lines under warranty - all work well in warm weather - none work in the cold. Post slip and loose air. It is not a cable set up because last night I let all air out of post, unhooked cable quick connect, and post still slipped 7 times on a 1 1/2 hour ride.


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> If the graphics on the lower tube align with saddle, the post spun in the frame. Re-align and you should be good to go.
> If the graphics are still aligned to the bike and the saddle is twisted, the threaded connection between the upper tube and saddle clamp flange has likely broken loose. As this is a bonded thread, it should go back to the factory so this connection can be properly restored. Contact customer service and they can help you out.


OK, I finally got round to checking my post. It seems like the saddle clamp rotated on the post and not the post in the seat tube. Bummer.

I loosened the sear clamp and turned the post to center the saddle again. The post seems to work fine and there is no play anywhere so do you think I should just leave it or send it in for repair?

What torque do you suggest tightening the seat clamp? I think I have it at 7Nm.

How it was originally








After rotating the seat post back to center seat


----------



## BobbyLight350z (Feb 1, 2016)

So are these posts turning out to be piles? Or are only the people with issues posting.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

jdaigneault said:


> 3 new 9point8 fall lines under warranty - all work well in warm weather - none work in the cold. Post slip and loose air. It is not a cable set up because last night I let all air out of post, unhooked cable quick connect, and post still slipped 7 times on a 1 1/2 hour ride.


Hey jdaigneault.
Sucks that your having problems with the post. There are a couple things that might make it slip. 
Oil/grease on the brake assembly. Take it apart and clean thoroughly will alcohol.
The brake is not reset completely. When it gets cold the liquid in the brake will contract more then the post making it slip. Also there will be variations in the thickness of the brake bore. Find the easy spot on the post and reset the brake in that position while its cold. Worth a shot.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

BobbyLight350z said:


> So are these posts turning out to be piles? Or are only the people with issues posting.


Ha ha. I think it's just the people with problems posting.

I've got 2. One for more than a year, the second for 3 months. Not a single problem. 
I had to do a brake reset once (hold the thumb lever fully for about 10 seconds).

Otherwise they've both been flawless.

BTW, I'm using a WolfTooth lever on one -- I really like it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

trail-blazer said:


> OK, I finally got round to checking my post. It seems like the saddle clamp rotated on the post and not the post in the seat tube. Bummer.
> 
> I loosened the sear clamp and turned the post to center the saddle again. The post seems to work fine and there is no play anywhere so do you think I should just leave it or send it in for repair?
> 
> ...


You should be fine, mine did the same thing and ran it like that all summer.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

reamer41 said:


> Ha ha. I think it's just the people with problems posting.
> 
> I've got 2. One for more than a year, the second for 3 months. Not a single problem.
> I had to do a brake reset once (hold the thumb lever fully for about 10 seconds).
> ...


Are you running your post in cold temps? Below 32 degrees F ?


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

jdaigneault said:


> Are you running your post in cold temps? Below 32 degrees F ?


Only a couple rides have been below 32°. Many rides in the mid 30s. I've noticed the post is slightly slower to return when cold.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Matt Smith (Sep 2, 2015)

Add mine to the list of posts that failed in cold weather. I just got my post ~2 weeks ago. It worked flawless for the first 4 rides, but then on my 5th ride which was the coldest day yet (~15 *F) it quit returning. I checked the air pressure when I got home and it was at zero. I put 25 psi of air back in it and then submerged it in water and I don't notice any leaks, so it seems like it's not leaking when stationary and only leaking when it's dropped. I'll check the pressure after the next ride and see if it's still happening, but I'm pretty bummed to say the least...


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

My brake assembly is working fine, but it IS leaking air in the cold as well - 15-18 degF. Matt Smith, tell us what you find. I think it's the collar end, but definitely happening when I use the post in the cold. Doesn't leak extended and at rest. I lost maybe 10psi on 2 cold rides.



trail-blazer said:


> OK, I finally got round to checking my post. It seems like the saddle clamp rotated on the post and not the post in the seat tube. Bummer.
> 
> I loosened the sear clamp and turned the post to center the saddle again. The post seems to work fine and there is no play anywhere so do you think I should just leave it or send it in for repair?
> 
> ...


My clamp is at 5Nm - per my frame specs (carbon with carbon paste). 7Nm doesn't sound like too much to me. You can take it down some and it may take the force before the post does next time.

I bought my "blemished" post direct, and it was off-center like that (only thing I noticed). It doesn't seem to have an affect on the operation. I wouldn't worry.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

alexbn921 said:


> Hey jdaigneault.
> Sucks that your having problems with the post. There are a couple things that might make it slip.
> Oil/grease on the brake assembly. Take it apart and clean thoroughly will alcohol.
> The brake is not reset completely. When it gets cold the liquid in the brake will contract more then the post making it slip. Also there will be variations in the thickness of the brake bore. Find the easy spot on the post and reset the brake in that position while its cold. Worth a shot.


I can't see how after 4 rides the post internals would get containinated. Remember, I have had issues with 3 brand new posts. I went out and got an excellent deal on a new Bontrager dropline. The guys at my local shop all have had excellent success with this post in the cold. We will see. Fall lines are being returned.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I knew I shouldn't have come to this thread today.....6th ride after installing a new brake assembly and it's slipping badly. Right out of the blue. Temperature tonight is 22 degF. This isn't the cold weather post that's been advertised. Most likely going back.

As ugly as it is, I may just have to just get a Gravity Dropper.

jdaigneault, Let me know how the Bontrager holds up below freezing.


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

BobbyLight350z said:


> So are these posts turning out to be piles? Or are only the people with issues posting.


I think it's typical of forums. Mostly people with problems that come on to complain or seek help so gives a skewed impression.

I've been completely happy with mine. Had it for 11 months now. Any issues I've had which I could count on one hand are due to installation like incorrect cable tension or a slow post due to me not putting enough air into it initially. I've lubed the top nut seal once after some very dusty rides in summer.

It's a great post.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Members posting problems here are using the post in sub-freezing temperatures. It's a great post, but it's not the four season post some of us were lead to believe. Warm climate and seasonal riders should be fine.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

i currently have a fox transfer dropper with internal routing and just ordered the 9point8 dropper. 

is there anything speciall i need to know when installing the 9point8? i've never installed a dropper or anything with internal routing.

how's the remote lever on the 9point8?


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Hawseman said:


> Members posting problems here are using the post in sub-freezing temperatures. It's a great post, but it's not the four season post some of us were lead to believe. Warm climate and seasonal riders should be fine.


I agree. I have one on my trail bike and love it. That was the main reason I kept trying with this post in cold weather, especially after I was told these posts work in the cold. Well, they do not. The dropline is spec'd on Trek's fat bikes, and bontragers main claim was to create a post that works in the cold. And by cold, I mean below freezing. I think most people have a different meaning to cold than us New Englanders. We have to ride our fat bikes in the winter with temps below freezing to keep the trails riding good on snow. Typical riding temps for me are 15 degree f.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

I was using KS LEV at 10 degree F (-12 deg. C) w/o any issues, except of slower returning back. The post is still doing well.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

PeterG said:


> I was using KS LEV at 10 degree F (-12 deg. C) w/o any issues, except of slower returning back. The post is still doing well.


I eat crow....My Lev will go back on and we'll see how this does in those temps. I think I'll keep the Fall Line for fair weather seasons.

@jdaigneault
Funny thing is that 9point8 is located in Ontario. Hardly a warm environment. Actually Ontario is as cold, if not colder, than New England. I thought when they stated that the post would operate, "even in cold weather", that it meant cold and not 40+ degF.

I do like the post. It has no play, and the 175mm is a good height for me. The Fall Line is very easy to work on too.....especially after taking it apart 3 times in 2 months.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

I did a 2 hour 20 minute ride today with temps around 18 degrees F. Dropline worked flawlessly! I kept waiting for it to slip, but it worked beautifully - something I am not used to. Now only time will tell, but I had a **** eating grin on my face as I was finishing my ride - pure enjoyment! It's been a long time coming.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

I've ridden it down to -25F/-32C. At those temperatures its return speed slows down (I believe reasonable) but works fine.
A few things to keep in mind.
The air pressure in the post drops with temperature. If you set the pressure at room temperature at a pressure that provides a reasonable return speed at that temperature, say 25-30 psi, it will drop enough at very cold temps that it may no longer have enough pressure to have the post fully return. This is further compounded by the seal and grease providing more drag at colder temperatures. Either set the pressure at the temperature you are riding after the post has acclimated to the temp, or compensate if set are room temp. I'd suggest something like 5 psi increase for every 20C/40F drop in temperature.
The other thing you need to do are brake resets with significant temperature drops. The post needs a brake reset with about every 15C/30F temperature drop. If you don't do this, the post will eventually start to slip. It is critical that your lever setup allows sufficient cable pull to allow a proper brake reset. So if you are using a lever from another brand and it does not provide sufficient cable travel, the post will not work well for you at cold temps. Likewise if your cockpit setup restricts the lever travel.
Hopes this helps for those experiencing some cold weather challenges with the Fall Line post.


----------



## acer66 (Oct 13, 2010)

Hawseman said:


> Funny thing is that 9point8 is located in Ontario. Hardly a warm environment. Actually Ontario is as cold, if not colder, than New England. I thought when they stated that the post would operate, "even in cold weather", that it meant cold and not 40+ degF.


I was wondering about that too.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

JackP42 said:


> I've ridden it down to -25F/-32C. At those temperatures its return speed slows down (I believe reasonable) but works fine.
> A few things to keep in mind.
> The air pressure in the post drops with temperature. If you set the pressure at room temperature at a pressure that provides a reasonable return speed at that temperature, say 25-30 psi, it will drop enough at very cold temps that it may no longer have enough pressure to have the post fully return. This is further compounded by the seal and grease providing more drag at colder temperatures. Either set the pressure at the temperature you are riding after the post has acclimated to the temp, or compensate if set are room temp. I'd suggest something like 5 psi increase for every 20C/40F drop in temperature.
> The other thing you need to do are brake resets with significant temperature drops. The post needs a brake reset with about every 15C/30F temperature drop. If you don't do this, the post will eventually start to slip. It is critical that your lever setup allows sufficient cable pull to allow a proper brake reset. So if you are using a lever from another brand and it does not provide sufficient cable travel, the post will not work well for you at cold temps. Likewise if your cockpit setup restricts the lever travel.
> Hopes this helps for those experiencing some cold weather challenges with the Fall Line post.


I did multiple brake resets, by unscrewing the bottom dust cap and pulling on the cable and holding for a good 20 seconds. Post still slipped. If your having luck, that's great - but I tried 3 brand new posts from them and they all did not work. In my mind those percentages of failures is too high.


----------



## acer66 (Oct 13, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> I've ridden it down to -25F/-32C. At those temperatures its return speed slows down (I believe reasonable) but works fine.
> A few things to keep in mind.
> The air pressure in the post drops with temperature. If you set the pressure at room temperature at a pressure that provides a reasonable return speed at that temperature, say 25-30 psi, it will drop enough at very cold temps that it may no longer have enough pressure to have the post fully return. This is further compounded by the seal and grease providing more drag at colder temperatures. Either set the pressure at the temperature you are riding after the post has acclimated to the temp, or compensate if set are room temp. I'd suggest something like 5 psi increase for every 20C/40F drop in temperature.
> The other thing you need to do are brake resets with significant temperature drops. The post needs a brake reset with about every 15C/30F temperature drop. If you don't do this, the post will eventually start to slip. It is critical that your lever setup allows sufficient cable pull to allow a proper brake reset. So if you are using a lever from another brand and it does not provide sufficient cable travel, the post will not work well for you at cold temps. Likewise if your cockpit setup restricts the lever travel.
> Hopes this helps for those experiencing some cold weather challenges with the Fall Line post.


This why I never bought a dropper, just another thing I have to deal with.
But since even I now start to believe it is the best thing since sliced bread I want to get one.
I know several guys on KS posts and they do not have that problem but I like that you can service the fall post.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

I have a 350-100mm post and want to increase the travel to 121mm.

According to the videos, the post has a single 25mm spacer. 
Taking out the spacer will take the post to 125mm travel. 

Since 9Point8 sells 4, 6, 12 and 25mm spacers, I assume that replacing the 25mm with a 4mm will result in a 121mm travel, right?

I did contact 9Point8 and they said it was not going to work without specific explanation.

Is anyone familiar with the procedure?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Have you seen the instruction video,


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

You can definitely take the 25mm spacer out and replace it with a 4mm spacer and you will end up with a 121mm travel post that is 371mm long. So if the 350mm overall length is critical, then 100mm is the limit. If you can fit a 371mm long post in, then swapping spacers will work.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Machianera said:


> I have a 350-100mm post and want to increase the travel to 121mm.
> 
> According to the videos, the post has a single 25mm spacer.
> Taking out the spacer will take the post to 125mm travel.
> ...


The only reason this wouldn't work is if you had an old post without a spacer for some reason. If it has a 25mm spacer and there should be one. swap it out.


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

alexbn921 said:


> The only reason this wouldn't work is if you had an old post without a spacer for some reason. If it has a 25mm spacer and there should be one. swap it out.


Thanks for all the replies, I did see the video and have a basic idea of how it works. The only thing that confuses me if the email I exchanged with 9point8.
When I asked if the 25mm spacer could be replaced with a 4mm, they responded "not possible, the spacer in there is 25mm".
I guess they missread my email.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

*quick access to shrader valve..*

In light of my air loss problem, until I can get the seals replaced, I added a "Topeak Pressure-Rite Anti-Air Loss Connector" so I could pump up my post without having to remove the seat. I leave it on at all times and it doesn't seem to leak. Works easily for my small thread-on pump, but I think my pressure fit tire pump would also fit if I tried. I do have a taller carbon seat, YMMV.


----------



## WI-XC (Jul 1, 2014)

I also have had problems with my Fall Line in the cold. Unfortunately, I haven't been riding much, but when I do it's 50/50 if it will work correctly.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

sorry I'm joining the party late. 

does 9point8 have resolutions for all these issues? they seem pretty responsive to phone calls and emails.

considering they are top performers in all the dropper tests/reviews, I would think they had a fix for the customers having issues.

I'm currently on a fox transfer dropper, but just ordered a 9point8.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

This thread seems to be piling up with a lot of talk about issues, and while there are always going to be a couple no matter what, I just want to throw this out there for people who might be reading this and thinking these posts suck. I have two Fall Line posts. One that I have used extensively (almost daily) over the last year in all conditions, it's a version one. It's worked flawlessly. I think I've only added air to it two times. The other one I just bought lightly used and it's 175 mm (version 2) that has also worked flawlessly in all conditions. And I literally just screwed it on the assembly unit of my old version one and went out and rode!


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

monts said:


> This thread seems to be piling up with a lot of talk about issues, and while there are always going to be a couple no matter what, I just want to throw this out there for people who might be reading this and thinking these posts suck. I have two Fall Line posts. One that I have used extensively (almost daily) over the last year in all conditions, it's a version one. It's worked flawlessly. I think I've only added air to it two times. The other one I just bought lightly used and it's 175 mm (version 2) that has also worked flawlessly in all conditions. And I literally just screwed it on the assembly unit of my old version one and went out and rode!


thats great to hear! whats the difference between version 1 and 2?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

useport80 said:


> thats great to hear! whats the difference between version 1 and 2?


If you go on the site and look at rebuild kits, you'll see there's a V1 nut and V2 nut dead center of the post (with a pic). V2 is the only available post now, so if you just bought one you got the V2.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

monts said:


> This thread seems to be piling up with a lot of talk about issues, and while there are always going to be a couple no matter what, I just want to throw this out there for people who might be reading this and thinking these posts suck. I have two Fall Line posts. One that I have used extensively (almost daily) over the last year in all conditions, it's a version one. It's worked flawlessly. I think I've only added air to it two times. The other one I just bought lightly used and it's 175 mm (version 2) that has also worked flawlessly in all conditions. And I literally just screwed it on the assembly unit of my old version one and went out and rode!


Yup, a year and a half now of regular riding on my 200mm and 175mm posts and no issues. I unscrewed the seal heads to wipe down and apply new grease as a once-a-year maintanence thing but that's it. Haven't touched the air pressure since installing.


----------



## Matt Smith (Sep 2, 2015)

Matt Smith said:


> Add mine to the list of posts that failed in cold weather. I just got my post ~2 weeks ago. It worked flawless for the first 4 rides, but then on my 5th ride which was the coldest day yet (~15 *F) it quit returning. I checked the air pressure when I got home and it was at zero. I put 25 psi of air back in it and then submerged it in water and I don't notice any leaks, so it seems like it's not leaking when stationary and only leaking when it's dropped. I'll check the pressure after the next ride and see if it's still happening, but I'm pretty bummed to say the least...


I've got a few more rides in but only in above freezing temps. My post works great when it's warmer, but it seems to leak air when I drop it in really cold temps. I tested this a few times in my garage when it was cold. I put 30 psi in the post and then cycled it up and down several times and checked the pressure again and it was down below 5 psi. Since then I've had 3 rides in above freezing temps and it's not having any issues at those temps. Seems to only be a problem in the cold. I'll see what happens next time it gets really cold, but it's not looking very promising.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

monts said:


> This thread seems to be piling up with a lot of talk about issues, and while there are always going to be a couple no matter what, I just want to throw this out there for people who might be reading this and thinking these posts suck. I have two Fall Line posts. One that I have used extensively (almost daily) over the last year in all conditions, it's a version one. It's worked flawlessly. I think I've only added air to it two times. The other one I just bought lightly used and it's 175 mm (version 2) that has also worked flawlessly in all conditions. And I literally just screwed it on the assembly unit of my old version one and went out and rode!


Glad to hear you have had good experiences with your post. You did not however mention what temps you have used it in.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

monts said:


> This thread seems to be piling up with a lot of talk about issues, and while there are always going to be a couple no matter what, I just want to throw this out there for people who might be reading this and thinking these posts suck. I have two Fall Line posts. One that I have used extensively (almost daily) over the last year in all conditions, it's a version one. It's worked flawlessly. I think *I've only added air to it two times*. The other one I just bought lightly used and it's 175 mm (version 2) that has also worked flawlessly in all conditions. And I literally just screwed it on the assembly unit of my old version one and went out and rode!


Do you think that adding the air twice a year is a sign of good quality?  For comparison, I didn't have to add air to KS LEV for 4 years and used it also at -12deg. C (10F) couple times. However, I don't want to say, that KS LEV is better dropper post, each post has some advantages and some disadvantages ...


----------



## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

I don't have any issues with my fall line on 4/5 hours rides at -10/20. 
The bike is stored inside in a warm place. 
I reset the brake before start riding.
Sometimes I do it few minutes into the ride, once the bike gets cold.
My brakes, especially the rear, starts freezing up but the post still works.
I run the 9point8 remote with 1x adapter.


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

I have had a 150 mm Fall Line for close to a year and have been very happy with it. I have never had to ad air and it has worked flawlessly. The coldest temp I have used it in was around -5 or so and it worked fine.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

So just a good review here since it seams only people with problems ever post on forums. 

I have two 125mm Fall Line's and have had them for a year with flawless use.

I've posted this before but my recommendation is to buy the large version of the p10L grease. When you see there isn't much grease on the stanchion just clean it and wipe some grease just above the seal nut and then cycle the post. If you do this every few rides it runs much smoother longer without having to pull the main nut and regrease as often.


BTW this is just a mechanic's rant on mountain bikers or cyclists in general: I see posts of people's bikes on here all the time that are just totally wrecked, put away dirty, and appear to have not been washed in months. They then complain that some component is crap because they have to bleed it, lube it, check the pressure, it wore out prematurely, whatever. Bikes, like cars, require maintenance. We can't expect a brake, seat post, fork, chain, bearing, to work in perpetuity with no maintenance. Riding your bike dirty constantly is going to wear your chainring and cassette faster, then never checking your chain for wear and you're buying a new $400 XX1 cassette. I'm not saying that is the case in any of these instances on the seat post at all, I'm just saying that a little maintenance goes a long way in having a good working bicycle.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Good advice on cleaning and greasing. I bought the large bottle right off the bat and clean after every ride. I'm hoping I just got a post with a damaged seal in my case. OTOH, my reverb went at least two years without needing greasing or air before I finally had to bleed it. I'm hoping for better air holding after I replace the seal on my Fall Line. Others say theirs hold so I'm confident I can get mine to also... I don't ride in less than ~40F conditions, so cold is not a factor here.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

I just got wondering, does the Fall Line have an oil bath that constantly wets the post like others? If not, this would make a lot of sense why it needs to be greased very often...


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

SonomaBiker said:


> I just got wondering, does the Fall Line have an oil bath that constantly wets the post like others? If not, this would make a lot of sense why it needs to be greased very often...


 Not it doesn't. P10L grease just under the orange seal which eventually gets all wiped onto the stanchion and post runs dry.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Well that explains a lot. Mine runs dry in just 2-3 weeks (6-9 rides), after that I suppose the seal might start grabbing and wearing out very quickly, then bye bye air. A large bottle of grease should just come with the post to begin with IMO. You'd be a fool not to buy it with your post and use it liberally. There are a lot of up sides to this post, but I have to say, I don't see this being one of them. It's a lot more maintenance than other posts, even as easy as it is, it still takes having the grease and remembering to do it constantly... and if you forget, you're buying a $50 seal kit.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

SonomaBiker said:


> Well that explains a lot. Mine runs dry in just 2-3 weeks (6-9 rides), after that I suppose the seal might start grabbing and wearing out very quickly, then bye bye air. A large bottle of grease should just come with the post to begin with IMO. You'd be a fool not to buy it with your post and use it liberally. There are a lot of up sides to this post, but I have to say, I don't see this being one of them. It's a lot more maintenance than other posts, even as easy as it is, it still takes having the grease and remembering to do it constantly... and if you forget, you're buying a $50 seal kit.


oh wow. 6-9 rides. wish i knew this before


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

SonomaBiker said:


> I just got wondering, does the Fall Line have an oil bath that constantly wets the post like others? If not, this would make a lot of sense why it needs to be greased very often...


No dropper posts use an oil bath. The all use a similar design to the 9point8: keyways, a bushing, and a wiper seal attached to the main nut. All greased.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

I wipe my post, fork and shock sanctions down after every ride. You don't need to lube any of them between regular maintenance intervals. In fact it will attract dirt and wear them out faster. It should take several months before you need to pull the top nut on any seat post and refresh the grease.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

alexbn921 said:


> I wipe my post, fork and shock sanctions down after every ride. You don't need to lube any of them between regular maintenance intervals. In fact it will attract dirt and wear them out faster. It should take several months before you need to pull the top nut on any seat post and refresh the grease.


Not in my experience. I had issues with it starting to stick after a month of use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

useport80 said:


> oh wow. 6-9 rides. wish i knew this before


Mine is just one post, others don't seem to have the same problem mine does, I wouldn't judge it that quickly. That said, I'm still not sure exactly what happened to mine. We're thinking mine was damaged during assembly. I just fully rebuilt it yesterday. I used some very thin mylar to slip the wiper over the post and avoid any possible damage, all should be good.

When I disassembled, the grease on the post was muddy and the bushings were worn. I'll see how the next 6mo go, and I'm going to up my maintenance as well.

I want this thing to last because, besides my trouble here, it's otherwise the best post I've ever had. 9point8 support is also tops! They sent me a new seal kit for free since it failed so quickly. I'm just bummed because my post didn't last more than 6mo before requiring a rebuild. Time will tell how well it holds up...


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

14 months and going strong.

Mud. Dry, dusty, talcum powder dirt. Caught in several rainstorms. 5-100 F.

I've done one reset and one regrease.

Just assume cable tension if it ever gives you trouble. If the cable housing gets snagged (raising/lowering/removing seatpost), it can artificially raise cable tension. Seems less cable tension is usually than more better.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Gunnar-man said:


> Bought the rebuild kit for my 150mm fall line and rebuilt it this weekend.
> 
> Overall, it was nice and easy job. Much easier than doing a reverb.
> 
> ...


Hey I know this post was from a while ago, but I rebuilt one of my Fall Line posts last night and the same thing happened to me with those keys and springs! I had to find something that really fit around them tight before i could get them to go through and stay, i got through it but yeah I had to use my old springs because I destroyed a couple of the new ones.

Anyone else do a rebuild yet and have a good technique for getting those in there easy? I contacted 9 point 8 to see if I can get some new keys and springs because I'd still like to go back and replace mine with new ones.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

monts said:


> ... Anyone else do a rebuild yet and have a *good technique for getting those in there easy*? I contacted 9 point 8 to see if I can get some new keys and springs because I'd still like to go back and replace mine with new ones.


Yes, 



, watch the video carefully from 9:00 min (important part at 10:02)


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

PeterG said:


> Yes,
> 
> 
> 
> , watch the video carefully from 9:00 min (important part at 10:02)


Oh, I watched it. Many times. It just didn't go that way! haha. I found that using an elastic hair band and having it super tight around the leading edge of the key (not the pointy side) got them in there just like the video. Pro tip: DO NOT use a rubber band.


----------



## gone_riding (Jun 25, 2008)

jdaigneault said:


> This happened to me once last year. I rotated it back and had no further issues with it. Once riding season was over I sent it back to 9.8 and they warrantied the fix, but explained the logo would never line up again, that was not a concern to me. 9.8 actually recommends running the seat post clamp a little loose, I forget their torque, so in the event of a crash, the whole post rotates inside the frame.


Same here. It rotated on a fall two weeks after I got it. I straightened it then sent it in at the end of the season to be warrantied (as they suggested). I got it back last week.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Rubber band method was a success for me. I just used my fingers to keep the bullet side from sliding up then tap it in with my other hand 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

alexbn921 said:


> I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.


just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.


----------



## babesquatch (Sep 1, 2016)

I hate to keep piling on 9point8 because I really do think they are a good company but I have been disappointed in my 150mm fall line.

After about a month of riding I had the seal under the seatpost clamp go out. Had great customer service setting up a warranty repair return, but it took almost a month turn around to get it back, which I understand isn't necessarily their fault with customs and what not, just kind of a shock after having a week turn around on a thompson elite dropper service when I lived in Alaska. 

But cherry on this sundae is the same seal just went out again, three months after that warranty return. oh, and lubing the stanchion every other ride is a new one too.

Like I said, their service has been great, and I legitimately think they are a good company, but.. this is ridiculous


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

Mine was bombproof for the first three quarters of last year but just finished a week of riding in AZ and the creaking returned with a vengeance by the end of the week. It works fine but I do find it frustrating that the time between lubrication has diminished. 

Functionally, it still works great but that creaking is getting on my nerves


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

It's worth to note, that the weakest point of the post design is that the stanchion outer surface serves also as a working part, so requires a good lubrication and air tightness to upper nut and even a small stanchion surface scratch would send the post to trash. None of forks or other seatposts design depends on vulnerable outer stanchion surface. The rest of the design is very good.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

monts said:


> just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.


That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

TraxFactory said:


> That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.


I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

monts said:


> I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.


I clean my suspension after every ride. You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster. Most forks and shocks have an internal wiper built into the seal to prevent the lube from escaping. My fork never weeps oil, but my seat post does. Seems like a simple fix. I'm still very happy with the post and think its the best on the market. I will lube it externally for awhile and see how it goes.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

alexbn921 said:


> You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster.


I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.

Never ever worn out a stanchion.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

TraxFactory said:


> I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.
> 
> Never ever worn out a stanchion.


I thought Fox actually recommended lubing the seal area of your fork with Fox Float fluid (and recommended slick honey as an alternative). It reduces stiction and prolongs the life of your seal. Well either way, same concept for the post. You don't smear it all over the stanchion, but yeah, just a light coat around the seal area.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

anyone else having trouble loosening the nut on your Fall Line? Im trying to relube the seal by following the instructions in their video here 




but I cant get the damn thing loose. I am using the exact same Park clamp that they use in the video, but the clamp cant grab the nut, no matter how tight i crank it. and the whole thing just spins in the clamp.

any ideas?


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

PeterG said:


> Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).


i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

sooner518 said:


> i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method


Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

monts said:


> Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.


This. I used a Craftsman Strap wrench and it came right off.


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Same problem loosening the nut. Tried the work stand and a strap wrench. Eventually brought it in to a shop. They struggled too. They were able to get it loose by leaving the saddle on, clamping the nut in the work stand and rotating the saddle.


----------



## kadett (Dec 25, 2015)

Hello, so I have slipping issues again. I tried all 3 reset methods but none of them helped me. I can cycle the post just by hand. I received the post from warranty service it was in Germany and they said nothing is wrong with post. It worked when I got it but bit strange, was slipping a little bit. I havent toutched the bike for 3 weeks and now its slipping again. i dont know whats wrong. Im very frustrated I wanna ride but I cant because of it.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

kevinboyer said:


> My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?


Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Junersun said:


> Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the tips. I couldn't get it to break loose at all by hand and I don't own a strap wrench, so I'll get one and try again.


----------



## Gunnar-man (Mar 21, 2008)

I leave it on. The seatpost is a great counteracting force to the strap wrench


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

reamer41 said:


> Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Check this thread out....

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/fall-line-service-1004841.html


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> Check this thread out....
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/components/fall-line-service-1004841.html


Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

dRjOn said:


> i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?


Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

I ordered the new lever and should be here next week. I have the Wolftooth version on two bikes right now and it is great but the changes sounded like they would be nice so I ordered it.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

JackP42 said:


> Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.


oh thats good to know the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is actually different from the normal wolftooth remote lever. i might try it now.

do you know if the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is matchmaker or sram clamp compatible? i hate the stock/old 9point8 lever because it isn't matchmaker compatible

edit: nm, i just looked on the 9point8 website and it says the new digit is matchmaker compatible.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

The original Wolftooth ReMote works great. Plus, the picture of the wolf on the trigger is boss. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## dngr (Jul 26, 2009)

Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

dngr said:


> Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?


LOL. The air is dryer there too so you'll need to moisten it. :madman:
No you don't have to change your air out.


----------



## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

dngr said:


> Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?


9point8 can weigh in if they'd like, but my understanding is that their posts have will self-equilibrate if you _fully_ depress the lever (further than you would in normal use) once you get to your destination. It certainly wouldn't hurt- and is easy enough to do.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Isn't that rather thermal compensation of brake fuid expansion rather than air pressure equalization?  In the mountains air pressure changes by ca. 8mbar (0.008 bar) for each 100 m of altitude raise/decline (i.e. ca. 0.08 bar/1000m), which is negligible compared to 2 bar (ca. 29 psi) of the seatpost air pressure.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

dngr said:


> Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?


You don't need to vent the post for shipping. The only reason to adjust the air pressure is if there is a significant temperature change. For example setting the air pressure at room temperature and then riding at below freezing is enough of a temperature difference that the air pressure will noticeably be affected and the post will return slower or possibly not completely.
Have fun in Moab. Trails there are awesome!


----------



## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post. 

I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

rollertoaster said:


> I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.
> 
> I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.


I'm starting to wonder as well. I just got one of my posts back for what I assume was contamination on the brake. Same issue with no calls back, no responses to emails and social media. The only way I was able to get a response was the online chat function and they were very helpful. You should try that but I'm getting a little worried as well with the communication or lack thereof.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

rollertoaster said:


> I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.
> 
> I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.


Bummer!!! What a drag to have issues so soon!

I have had a few relatively minor issues with my 175mm, but every time I call them up on the phone I usually get someone right away, and they have been very generous with providing a solution to each issue free of charge. Try calling, I haven't used email or FB, maybe those don't work as well with them.

I'd be very surprised if they didn't get you sorted out quickly once you get a hold of them.

Good luck!


----------



## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance


----------



## locktonimage (Apr 18, 2015)

rollertoaster said:


> the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance


Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

locktonimage said:


> Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


A lot of the bike industry is crazy busy right now getting ready for the Sea Otter Classic. I bet that mid next week when everyone is back and they have unpacked things will get back to normal.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

locktonimage said:


> Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


really? wow. i emailed them on friday regarding my new 9point8 digit remote and they got back to me within 2-3 days


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

here's the 9point8 digit with the matchmaker


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem


----------



## m3the01 (Aug 11, 2008)

gorgebiker said:


> 9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem


Ive left them numerous emails over the past 6 months an never received a response...

That said, i have the post and luv it, little worried if i have problems.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

They were having issues with their email. It has been corrected. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

I have been running a 150mm Fall Line for about a year and a half and have been very happy with it. My only gripe was that the lever force was higher than I liked. Yesterday I replaced the inner and outer cable with Shimano housing and it is MUCH better. Noticeably less force required at the lever and much smoother action. I wish I had done this sooner!


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Craftsman 2-piece 16" Rubber Strap Wrench Set with Plastic Handles
Sears.com


----------



## arashi (Jan 15, 2009)

useport80 said:


> can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


I picked up one of these Klein 6in strap wrenches and they work great. They have a nice rubber or silacone strap that grips really well and they are smaller than those plastic ones I've tried before. They are made in the USA too which is nice.

Klein Tools 6 in. Grip-it Strap Wrench S-6H at The Home Depot - Mobile


----------



## locktonimage (Apr 18, 2015)

If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

I've had well over a year of no problems with my 150 dropper, but yesterday whilst riding my seat turned like the head/clamp was unscrewing from the top of the post. I just turned it back and it tightened up again but it unscrewed a couple more times during the ride. I had a couple of crashes in the past where the seat got turned and I just knocked it straight again and not had any problem since until yesterday. Apart from the head unscrewing the post is working fine.

So, is the seat head/clamp just screwed onto the top of the post? Can I unscrew it completely and apply some strong locktite and screw it back on? Anyone else had this issue?


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

locktonimage said:


> If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?


Have you tried a brake reset? You want to do it at the point where it slips as this will be the widest point inside the post. Another possibility is that grease has migrated down onto the brake. In that case cleaning it and the inner tube with alcohol will fix the slipping.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

kragu said:


> Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.


Holy Crap man!! Something scratched it. That sucks. I'm surprised it isn't leaking air. Probably going to need a new stanchion.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

kragu said:


> Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.


Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

JackP42 said:


> Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.


Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

kragu said:


> Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.


Without taking the post apart and determining the cause, it is hard to say. Speculation doesn't really add value at this point. It's free to contact customer service and start a discussion on how to get issue resolved.


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

JackP42 said:


> trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
> The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
> I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.


Thanks for the response. I'll get in touch with their service people. Hopefully I can do a temporary fix to get me through the summer as I'd hate to have to send it in and be without the post for a couple of weeks at the start of the season.

Perhaps instead of epoxy they could use a pin to secure the head to the tube. It could be designed that the pin shears in a crash to save the post after which it could easily be replaced by the dropper owner.


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Anyone have problems with it not holding air for more than 24 hours?


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Just want to give 9point8 a big thumbs up.

So I sent 9point8 customer service an email today explaining my problem I experienced with the head flange unscrewing on the post stanchion last weekend (see my post above) and asked if there was any DIY fix I could do to avoid me having to send back the post and miss out on riding for a couple of weeks till it gets turned around.

I got a phone call within 4 hours from them giving me a solution on how to repair my post. It's not an easy process from the sound of it and is most likely temporary and I'm not sure I'll attempt it yet but I'm really impressed with their service and for getting back to me so quick, let alone offering me a solution. They could so easily just have said to send it back. That would certainly have been the easy option for them, especially since the repair wouldn't be covered by warranty

Well done.


----------



## crondula (Feb 26, 2006)

I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.

I use this grease alone and nothing else for this dropper. DONT use oil in the relube process or on the post, I had put a drop of Fox float on there once and that made its way into the brake area and had to clean and rebuild the dropper after that.

You have to be very careful since this dropper design is very sensitive to the lubricants, it is easy for oil/grease to get into the inner parts and one drop of oil in there and the internal brake wont keep the seat up anymore.



reamer41 said:


> Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crondula (Feb 26, 2006)

I had the same problem. One easy way to find out is to put air in it (about 50 psi) and put some water with dishsoap around the main dust wiper on the stem and see if it bubbles. When mine leaked, it leaked past the x-ring and vented through the dust seal with bubbles forming there. The other o-rings are static and would not fail as quickly. Mine failed in less than a year of it being new, I replaced it myself than having to get it warrantied. 

You can go to the 9.8 website and they have instructions on how to replace the x-ring. You can buy a replacement seal kit or buy a similar seal for cheap, it is size -213 X-ring (aka dash 213).

I use Molykote 55 o-ring grease instead of the 9.8 grease they sell.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

crondula said:


> I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.
> 
> ......


Thanks for the tip! I'll pick some up.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

crondula said:


> I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork...


Quoted from the datasheet: 
"Molykote ® 55 O-ring Grease is a silicone-based material that helps ensure positive lubrication and sealing *by slightly swelling rubber O-rings and seals*..." 
"COMPATIBILITY: Molykote ® 55 O-Ring Grease *has been hown to swell natural rubber*. However, compatibility of the lubricant may vary with the plasticizer content of specific materials (especially elastomers). Small-scale compatibility testing should be conducted prior to the use of this product in any application. ..."
Maybe good for 9point8, but I'm not sure about shock and fork.


----------



## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

I'll just add that I'm very happy with my 9point8 post.

It's been working perfectly so far.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Any updates on the scratched post? I found a similar scratch on my post, but doesn't look as bad as kragu's (see pic above), my scratch does not seem to affect performance at all but I was wondering.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

monts said:


> Any updates on the scratched post? I found a similar scratch on my post, but doesn't look as bad as kragu's (see pic above), my scratch does not seem to affect performance at all but I was wondering.


contact customer support. It will only get worse.
What size it yours?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)




----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

It's kind of hard to see and I can't feel it when running fingers over it but I do visibly see it.


----------



## steve650b (Feb 23, 2014)

I am looking at getting the new digit remote but I kinda like the grip on the wolf tooth one. Has anyone tried both on the fall line? Is the digit that much better in terms of the lever throw?


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

steve650b said:


> I am looking at getting the new digit remote but I kinda like the grip on the wolf tooth one. Has anyone tried both on the fall line? Is the digit that much better in terms of the lever throw?


I have both including the light action wolftooth. I like the digit better.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## steve650b (Feb 23, 2014)

Cool, thanks. Is the feel of it a little different than the wolf tooth one?
I am currently using their normal thumb lever and don't like how far the lever needs to be pushed.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

steve650b said:


> Cool, thanks. Is the feel of it a little different than the wolf tooth one?
> I am currently using their normal thumb lever and don't like how far the lever needs to be pushed.


Well the light action and digit both have longer arms so they have to be pushed further than the standard lever but it makes it a lighter feel. If you don't like how long the lever has to be pushed with the light action lever the digit isn't going to be any better.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Good idea, don't like the look. I'll just use my mudhugger and call it done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Actually it doesn't have to be pushed that much, or it doesn't feel like it. It's about 7-8mm pull, that's all the dropper needs. Have a bit more info about the Digit here:







bikeguy0 said:


> Well the light action and digit both have longer arms so they have to be pushed further than the standard lever but it makes it a lighter feel. If you don't like how long the lever has to be pushed with the light action lever the digit isn't going to be any better.


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?

I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Miker J said:


> So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?
> 
> I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.


I have a few friends who have had problems with their fox which makes me not want to get one.

I'm still going strong on the 9.8 but I'm pretty sure on my next build I'm going to give the Revive a try!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Miker J said:


> So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?
> I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.


Well for one 9.8 is not a hydraulic dropper but a mechanical one (Easton and RaceFace licensed their tech). Fox is hydraulic like all the other ones, whether they use a sealed cartridge or not.
Service is easier on the mechanical ones, check the 9.8 site for all the parts available.


----------



## benyl (Jun 2, 2016)

My 9.8 was bad out of the box. I liked it a lot, but temp changes would make the brake not function at all. We thought we had fixed it with cable tension, but it started acting up. LBS finally said we should send it in. Been running a transfer as a loaner. I'm thinking about keeping the transfer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I just installed another Fall Line. I've got two, this was for my wife's bike. 

Gotta have free play in the cable. Other than that they've all been trouble free and easy to set up.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

benyl said:


> My 9.8 was bad out of the box. I liked it a lot, but temp changes would make the brake not function at all. We thought we had fixed it with cable tension, but it started acting up. LBS finally said we should send it in. Been running a transfer as a loaner. I'm thinking about keeping the transfer.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Temp swings is one of the reasons for the 9.8 FL to get a brake reset. Once you do that you should be just fine. What kind of issue were you experiencing? Sagging or not engaging? Brake reset should have solved that I think.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Hey all I'm still working on the review and install vid but here is what comes with the Fall Line dropper. I ordered it with the new Digit remote, a small upcharge from the ThumB/ standard remote


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

Miker J said:


> So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?
> 
> I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.


i heard that customers can't service the fox transfer dropper and that it has to be sent into fox for service due to the nitrogen cartridge. at least thats what the fox customer service rep told me. not sure if there is some other way that customers can service it.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Finally got around to finishing the installation and review of the dropper, very happy with the performance after using it for a couple of weeks. Looking forward to testing the 4 season performance but so far so good. Lots of details, I included as much as I could in here. Still fresh in my mind so ask me any questions.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Here to add some data and guidance on slipping issues.

I have a 175mm post that worked great for a year, and then wouldn't hold at full drop. I tried brake resets, new cable and housing, but it was still slipping.

I then pulled the brake out of the post and found some greasy contaminants on the brake assembly. As mentioned earlier, this could have come from a shock pump that had some lubricant on the fitting, perhaps from my fork air chamber, which subsequently was injected inside my post when I was topping it up with air. Or maybe I was being to aggressive with lubrication of the nut seal.

Anyway, I first tried rubbing down the braking mechanism and inside of the post with isopropyl and a bunch of clean shop towels taped to a wooden dowel. The result was slight reduction in slipping, but still not perfect.

I then tried some Maxima Suspension Clean: https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-Suspe...28457&sr=8-2&keywords=maxima+suspension+clean

... hosing down the brake and inside of the post, then getting after it with paper towels, and this solved my problem. The Suspension Clean is a magical product that leaves no residue, and gets everything squeaky clean. Be advised that it has a potent urinal lozenge order, and further, it got me high as a kite in my work space. Ventilation is a good idea when cleaning, unless you're in to doing mind altering substances in truck stop bathrooms.

As far as maintenance goes, I f'ing hate unscrewing the seal nut. They really need to put wrench flats on it for v3. What works best for me in the southwest is another Maxima product: Maxima SC1 Silicone Detailer | MotoSport

I spray it on, let it cure for about a minute, then wipe it down with a pair of old undies. It repels dust and makes it easier to wash off mud. I use it everywhere on my bike, excluding braking surfaces.

Cheers.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

half_man_half_scab said:


> Here to add some data and guidance on slipping issues.


That is good to know about that cleaner, thanks for posting..


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Great post, h_m_h_s. I had similar experience and pulled the brake assembly. I assumed the brake cartridge had leaked. The contamination was oily and plentiful. 9p8 was great and sent a replacement brake assembly. I cleaned the hell out of the brake tube and all is well for the past 6 months. 
But I especially want to thank you for the Maxima Suspension Clean suggestion. The local office supply stores are asking for ID when purchasing compressed air cleaners. This sounds like a good alternative to bath salts too. Happy riding!

p.s. - f'in seal nut. It's hard to deal with, and because it is, I often pinch and destroy the o-ring.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

I recently picked up a KS Carbon 175mm dropper and put it on my second bike. I have the 175 Fall Line on my other bike. I have dozens of rides on the KS and not once have I had to do anything to it, it just keeps working 100%. I forgot how nice that freedom is! The 9point8 loses it's air after every 8-10 rides, even lubing every other time. Usually it loses it during the middle of a ride too. It's really a drag to have to deal with. I had to put a new seal on after just a few months, and now the new one is leaking just 10 rides in. I've never had so much trouble with a dropper, even my old reverb! Now that KS has a lighter and actually well working alternative it might be time to switch both bikes over! Sorry guys but the product seems to be critically flawed. The maintenance requirement is excessive. I hope they can redesign it to work better at some point, the product is solid in all other aspects and CS is unbeatable. Going to miss it some, but not the air loss!


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

That's too bad that you are having issues with your fall line. I have been running mine for 2 years now with zero problems. The only lubing I do is to dribble some tri-flow on top of the nut periodically. This definitely keeps it running smoothly and has never contaminated the brake.


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

Skooks said:


> That's too bad that you are having issues with your fall line. I have been running mine for 2 years now with zero problems. The only lubing I do is to dribble some tri-flow on top of the nut periodically. This definitely keeps it running smoothly and has never contaminated the brake.


Wish I was one of the lucky ones, I really do otherwise love the post, but their manufacturing and/or assembly processes must not be very consistent then. There are a lot of posts on here about leaking air problems.. some on this page alone. When I raised the issue there was no offer to replace the post with a working one (I was lucky to get a rebuild kit for just the cost of shipping and import fees), and the full rebuild failed in short order just the same. In the end the product and service didn't provide a good solution to me, as the end customer. I wouldn't be switching to KS if the product/service worked, but it didn't. What choices do I have really? Buy another one and take a chance again? No thanks! Enjoy yours, I'm jealous!


----------



## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

I just sent back my second fall line. My original was a complete lemon and failed in several ways within 100 miles. 
The replacement made it about 3 times as long before a stanchion scratch emerged from within. It also had gotten rough to move and leaky. 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Yeah, stinks when things don't work. I have a v1 going on two years......first 12 months I did nothing to it. I ride in hot dry and dusty all the time. Zero problems. Finally got around to lubing the seal nut, its so easy to do. Now I do that every few months and its golden. 

Remember, the bad ones you hear about here are the anomalies in my opinion.....You don't usually hear about the ones hat work all the time....and there are plenty of those. 

I will buy another if mine ever goes bad.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

So I ordered a 30.9 x 150 for a custom frame. When the frame arrived I didn't have enough insertion for the post, so I emailed 9.8 about an exchange for a shorter post and they said that it could be exchanged "no problem" for a nominal fee of $65.

I called and explained that I bought the post directly from 9.8 and that it was unused. The 9.8 employee told me the fee was to cover restocking and a "function test".

I explained again that the post is new in the box, never connected, unblemished. He said " that's our policy"

Okay, so I get the idea behind a restocking fee, esp for a product that's returned. What I don't get is charging the same restocking fee for an exchange as you would for a return.

I have an Easton and a Race Face already, I decided to spring for the more expensive 9.8, but now I'm wondering if it was a mistake.

Great product I'm sure, but not a good approach to keeping customers. Maybe things ain't so rosy for 9.8 these days.

I'm feeling spiteful, there are less expensive options...


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Nurse Ben said:


> I'm feeling spiteful, there are less expensive options...


Seems like a fair policy for them to implement -- especially since they offer 'free shipping' to US these days. (Nothing is actually 'free').

You should get over it. Move along. Or don't.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

CWnSWCO said:


> Seems like a fair policy for them to implement -- especially since they offer 'free shipping' to US these days. (Nothing is actually 'free').
> 
> You should get over it. Move along. Or don't.


Think about how that would go over at your LBS. Yeah, it wouldn't fly at my LBS either.

I'll get over it, I'll pay the 15% extortion fee.

This is just a heads up for anyone thinking 9.8 doesn't have stinky stools.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Sigh.... I really like their posts but both of my 175s are losing air. Usually have to refill every 3-5 days but the one on my Switchblade will now not hold air for a two hour ride. I'm in Crested Butte this week and forgot to take the one off my other bike to have as a back up. I really like the set back option and the 175 drop. I'm a heavy dude with a 35in inseam so droppers and I don't get along. Like others, I have had issues with annoying gremlins. I'm sure 9.8 will step up to the plate like they have in the past. I need a post now so off to the bike shop to overnight a E13. It's indexed, has less drop, no setback and is heavy but they claim it's simple and tough. F Reverb - V1 failed, V2 creaked. Previous gen Giant - dirt fouled cable too easily and head rotated. KS - will not touch because of CS history. Specialized - do they have a 150? Thomson/Crank Brothers - varied reports of reliability. Will consider the new Fox or Giant if the E13 fails in 3 months which seems to be the max life expectancy of droppers. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## SonomaBiker (Dec 14, 2013)

DrDon said:


> Sigh.... I really like their posts but both of my 175s are losing air. Usually have to refill every 3-5 days but the one on my Switchblade will now not hold air for a two hour ride. I'm in Crested Butte this week and forgot to take the one off my other bike to have as a back up. I really like the set back option and the 175 drop. I'm a heavy dude with a 35in inseam so droppers and I don't get along. Like others, I have had issues with annoying gremlins. I'm sure 9.8 will step up to the plate like they have in the past. I need a post now so off to the bike shop to overnight a E13. It's indexed, has less drop, no setback and is heavy but they claim it's simple and tough. F Reverb - V1 failed, V2 creaked. Previous gen Giant - dirt fouled cable too easily and head rotated. KS - will not touch because of CS history. Specialized - do they have a 150? Thomson/Crank Brothers - varied reports of reliability. Will consider the new Fox or Giant if the E13 fails in 3 months which seems to be the max life expectancy of droppers.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


This mirrors my experience with my 175. I find I have to lube it very well and air it up before every ride, then usually makes the ride.... even after doing a full rebuild.

I have the KS 175 on my other bike, no issues so far.

If Fox made a 175 I would ditch my 9point8 immediately.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

The shop recommended the Fox so that's what I got. Having an extra inch would be nice but the reviews for the Fox are highly favorable. I do admit that my bike has been on the back of cars, as high as 12k, <20 to 100 plus temps, snow and monsoons. At least three of my friends have gotten 9.8s upon my recommendation, but their posts haven't been stressed like my equipment. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Boom! https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/revive-185-revive-bikeyoke-dropper-seatpost-74.html


----------



## WI-XC (Jul 1, 2014)

I finally bit the bullet and shipped mine back in for service. The post was no longer holding itself up, even with the cable disconnected from the bottom. I'm debating on selling it and buying a 2018 Fox Transfer.


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Try the BikeYoke Revive post. As smooth and effortless as a KS LEV with 1,000x more reliability. 10,000x better action than the 9P8. Seriously, last post you'll ever buy.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

jm2e said:


> Try the BikeYoke Revive post. As smooth and effortless as a KS LEV with 1,000x more reliability. 10,000x better action than the 9P8. Seriously, last post you'll ever buy.


Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.



WI-XC said:


> I finally bit the bullet and shipped mine back in for service. The post was no longer holding itself up, even with the cable disconnected from the bottom. I'm debating on selling it and buying a 2018 Fox Transfer.


The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Well my post is leaking air. Post is 9 months old, but was serviced under warranty 4 months ago. Sucks that the shipping is more than the seals.


----------



## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

Hawseman said:


> Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.
> 
> The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
> It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.


I just had this issue with my gf's fall line post. I emailed 9point 8 and they sent over a brake tool and a replacement brake the next day at no charge. I replaced it my self and It works great now. Also if you have the old style lever spend the extra $ and get your self the wolftooth lever. it makes set up was easier.



alexbn921 said:


> Well my post is leaking air. Post is 9 months old, but was serviced under warranty 4 months ago. Sucks that the shipping is more than the seals.


I also have a fall line on my bike and it is having this issue and I'm going to disassemble and see if a seal is just not seated well, if not I will see if 9point8 will send over a new seal kit.

even though I have had issues with both of these seat posts the level of customer service I have received has been fantastic so I will purchase another one when I get another bike.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Well, another season in the bag and all 3 of my 9point8s were hassle free again, as well as the other 3 owned by shop employees. I don't think any of them got more than a wipe down and regrease.
The few that customers brought in complaining of slow return all just needed to be cleaned, greased, and aired up to 20psi. None of them came back. Meanwhile, we've averaged 2-3 Reverb rebuilds a week this summer. I wish Santa Cruz would spec the 9point8 instead.

As a bonus here's a pic of a sub 20lb bike with a 5" 9point8. This bike ROCKS at covering high alpine miles.


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## gorgebiker (Jan 26, 2015)

Regarding the cable requiring lots of force, a few thoughts. Did you replace the housing when you replaced the cable? Is the cable getting bent going through your frame? My trigger requires more force than my arthritic thumb liked. I was able to attach a piece of aluminum to the level extending it one inch. With that it no longer required much force. But that does not solve the cable braking problem. Doubt it is the post at fault.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The wolf remote will fix a lot of your problems. The stock lever is too short. Also get some shimano sp41 housing and a good cable. It will be butter smoth.


----------



## jm2e (Mar 26, 2012)

Had that same resistance issue. Compared it to one of my other bikes with a LEV, even rigged up a luggage scale. 9P8 was 2-3x more force. For my arthritic hands that's a no-go. For mrs jm2e, it meant lifting her palm off the grip to pry harder. No-go. They recommended buying the Race Face lever which is apparently way smoother. At $60/lever, that was a no-go. 
Went with the BikeYoke Revive post instead. It's been awesome!


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

gibsonlespaulspecial said:


> My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?


If u are using the 2 pinch bolt method to secure the cable you need to be sure the two tiny allen bolts are flush completely. Any binding here will cause your symptoms. Its happened to me.

The new style digit reverses cable, much easier to install/setup. Eliminates this possible issue.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

gibsonlespaulspecial said:


> My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?


I had the same problems, high lever force and broken cables. My solution was to modify an old shift lever. Works so much better! The activation force is much lower and the cable runs straight along the bar, so should not break as often. The best part was it cost me nothing. Very happy with the 
9.8 post.


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

No doubt I'd like to get the digit or wolf tooth remote but at $60 I'll probably just re-install another $4 cable instead.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I have the Raceface remote on one of my bikes and slightly prefer it to the 9point8 remotes on my other bikes. It's heavier though. If you have a front shifter or my Scott's shock remote you gotta use the 9point8 remote. In that case inspect and/or replace the cable twice a year.


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

So I took another look at my 1x remote (not the digit remote) and it's pretty clear what the problem is. As the lever gets pushed in and pulls on the cable, it starts to bend the cable right as it exits the lever. By the time the lever is pushed all the way in, the cable is bent pretty severely, probably 60 degrees. That will surely fatigue and eventually break the cable. Nobody else has this kind of problem?


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

gibsonlespaulspecial said:


> By the time the lever is pushed all the way in, the cable is bent pretty severely, probably 60 degrees.


Actually with my new $5 cable re-installed the lever's range of motion is less, so the bend at the end of the cable is more like 30 degrees. I contacted 9point8 and the admitted it's a bit of a design flaw. I'm really surprised they continue to sell this lever at this high-end price point.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

gibsonlespaulspecial said:


> My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?


Yes, I break one cable every season out of the blue, and it can screw you on a ride if you don't have another on hand to fix it.

Solution: Pay the $60 and get a wolf tooth. My post now functions way better overall and a cable change takes two seconds. I don't know why these posts would not just come with the wolf tooth (or the one that 9.8 makes, which is the same as the wolf tooth).


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

My Fall Line is 2 years old now. Works great. It's been ridden on at least 3 bikes in that time. I've had to lubricate the foam ring twice (maybe 3 times?). I've always reset the air pressure when doing the foam ring service.



monts said:


> Yes, I break one cable every season out of the blue, and it can screw you on a ride if you don't have another on hand to fix it.
> 
> Solution: Pay the $60 and get a wolf tooth. My post now functions way better overall and a cable change takes two seconds. I don't know why these posts would not just come with the wolf tooth (or the one that 9.8 makes, which is the same as the wolf tooth).


I converted an old SRAM X9 front shifter (opened it up and ground the teeth off the indexing wheel with a hand file) to be my dropper lever. Works great and I love the ergonomics!


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

So after 2 seasons, my post developed a slow air leak coming from the seal head area (the threaded nut). I was going to rebuild all of it, but looked on the 9 point 8 site and they now have a quick seal kit for $11. It's intended for posts that are leaking air in that area. Super easy to install. I did mine last night in about 10 minutes and post is back to normal. Less time and effort involved in tearing the whole post apart and trying to fit those keys back in.

Here is the kit: 
https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=44&product_id=170


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I’ve had 2 posts, one for over a year and the other for two. Both working great, no problems. (Both V1 seal nut). 

I got Fall Line for my wife and it’s leaking at the main seal after very little use. Bummer - but 9point8 has a seal kit on the way. They offered to do the work, but sending it back and waiting for it’s return is way more hassle than just doing the seals.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

I've had my 200 for over a year now. I ride everyday. When's it's good it's amazing but I'm now experiencing my third failure and ready to call it quits with this thing.

1) Brake failure after a few months - they sent me a new post

2) X seal failure after a few more months. I was replacing X rings every couple weeks and would still find air leakage with a soap bubble test. They sent me a new post and said they were examining the failure. They never would tell me what was wrong - just that it was a complex issue. Even with a new X ring and perfect upper tube air would leak past.

3) Replacement post has been good for about 2 months and now here we go again with air leakage past the X ring.

If it weren't the only 200 game in town I'd be so over it. Real shame cause the clamp mechanism is the best in class by far. Just wish they would use a spring instead of a pneumatic system. Ughhh!!!!!!


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

I had a 175 that was leaking and tried to get away with only changing the x ring, but it didn't stop until I rebuilt the post. Based on where it was coming from, it had to be the big red seal. Unfortunately you have to tear the whole post apart to replace that one! But after one rebuild (2 seasons) no problems. However, I grabbed a bike yoke revive recently for my hard tail, super nice! The action blows 9.8 away!


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

monts said:


> I had a 175 that was leaking and tried to get away with only changing the x ring, but it didn't stop until I rebuilt the post. Based on where it was coming from, it had to be the big red seal. Unfortunately you have to tear the whole post apart to replace that one! But after one rebuild (2 seasons) no problems. However, I grabbed a bike yoke revive recently for my hard tail, super nice! The action blows 9.8 away!


The big red seal is supposed to be a dust wiper only. The X ring is the air seal. But yeah, soap bubble test confirms air is leaking past the X ring and subsequently out the big red seal. 9.8 claims they have a new fix but I'm getting tired of being a beta tester. Post is awesome when it works but 3 failures in 1 year for what is billed as one of the most reliable posts is just not cutting it.

Wish Revive was available in 200.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I find that dusty conditions really slow the post down to an unacceptable speed. I've checked on pressure, and there is no air loss. Speeds back up again when I clean the upper tube. Anybody else notice this? I've seen it on the v1 and v2.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I find that dusty conditions really slow the post down to an unacceptable speed. I've checked on pressure, and there is no air loss. Speeds back up again when I clean the upper tube. Anybody else notice this? I've seen it on the v1 and v2.


Ha! For mine muddy conditions will do exactly what you are describing, I then have to wipe and put the pl whatever # grease on it and it will work again, needless to say these posts are kind of inconsistent, bike yoke I just get on and ride, any or all conditions work no fails, they make a 185mm


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

dodger said:


> The big red seal is supposed to be a dust wiper only. The X ring is the air seal. But yeah, soap bubble test confirms air is leaking past the X ring and subsequently out the big red seal. 9.8 claims they have a new fix but I'm getting tired of being a beta tester. Post is awesome when it works but 3 failures in 1 year for what is billed as one of the most reliable posts is just not cutting it.
> 
> Wish Revive was available in 200.


FYI - 9.8 says they have a new permanent fix for this issue. Gave me the option of sending it back or sending me parts. I chose parts so I'm not down for 2 weeks again. The post is easy enough to rebuild outside getting the brass guides reinserted...that's a real PITA.

We will see how good this new improved solution is. Having a hard time imagining what they changed on the X ring. I've been a huge fan of this post and the 200 availability. I wrote of the first 2 incidents as isolated but now I'm definitely seeing design flaws. If I didn't need the 200 I'd be over the 185 Revive like white on rice. Good lord why can't somebody make a reliable post?!


----------



## rollertoaster (Jun 11, 2007)

dodger said:


> I've had my 200 for over a year now. I ride everyday. When's it's good it's amazing but I'm now experiencing my third failure and ready to call it quits with this thing.
> 
> 1) Brake failure after a few months - they sent me a new post
> 
> ...


I've had a similar experience, but I wish I could say I've gotten months of use between failures. I've also had 2 posts get scored by the keyways. I give up, back to trusty ks.

I really want to love the drop line. The seat clamp is the best in the business, but it doesn't matter if the post doesn't work.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

I forgot my first failure was accompanied by keyway score too. Obviously these posts are not as bulletproof as we had originally hoped.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

put me down for keyway scores too! however, I have a KS LEV that did that as well... damn dropper posts!!! can't live with em' can't live without em'


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

dodger said:


> FYI - 9.8 says they have a new permanent fix for this issue. Gave me the option of sending it back or sending me parts. I chose parts so I'm not down for 2 weeks again. The post is easy enough to rebuild outside getting the brass guides reinserted...that's a real PITA.
> 
> We will see how good this new improved solution is. Having a hard time imagining what they changed on the X ring. I've been a huge fan of this post and the 200 availability. I wrote of the first 2 incidents as isolated but now I'm definitely seeing design flaws. If I didn't need the 200 I'd be over the 185 Revive like white on rice. Good lord why can't somebody make a reliable post?!


I'm interested in this fix and what it involves. Can you update this forum?

I love this post and the concept. It's easy to maintain, but it seems that the 175 & 200mm are (more) susceptible to air leaks and brake assembly issues. Lengthening out the top nut service intervals would be a big plus. At least now they offer a quick seal kit, so I'm not dropping $50+ bucks for a rebuild kit. I do have enough P10L to open my own shop now.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

I had a keyway score too on my 200mm. I do like my post but it seems like I have to lube it after every wet ride. If I wipe the post clean it will barley slide. I can lube the sanction with P10L it works again but not as good as pulling the top cap and adding it to the inside.

I have had an air leak too threw the main seal and ended up forcing P10L threw the seal head to get it to seal.

I don't understand why they don't have directional lipped seals that completely wipe the sanctions clean and keep dirt out like a fork or other droppers. That much lube shouldn't leak threw the seals and you shouldn't have to keep a decent coating of lube on the exposed sanctions.

I do like that it's easy to service the post at home. The seat clamp is the best around and it's a good thing as I have to remove the seat at least once a month to add lube to the post. The brake design locks the post in position up and down which I love.

Shipping from Canada is more than the seals/small parts.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

You guys experiencing air loss:
What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

I had to send two posts back and my buddy has to send his back because of air loss. It’s a shame because I like the post and I like supporting a North American start up. I have one post remaining which I may put on a SS. I have a Bikeyoke 185 on my main bike and a Transfer on my other bike. The finish and action of the Bikeyoke is nice and so far it’s been reliable with about two months of use. Obviously too soon to judge reliability. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

Lelandjt said:


> You guys experiencing air loss:
> What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?


I find about 25psi sufficient for a fast return with thunk top out with properly greased post. When the X ring goes bad it starts dropping slowly. At first 25 psi may last a few days before the post slows to an unacceptable speed. Putting the pump on it usually shows a pressure of around 15-20 psi then.

Curious to see what new improved 'fix' they have beyond the X ring. I'll post up when it arrives.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Lelandjt said:


> You guys experiencing air loss:
> What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?


22-23PSI to lower teens. It's fairly gradual in my case.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

25 to 30. 30 is too much with a fresh lube but is needed after a couple rides.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

what the hell is up with 'keyway scoring'?? i have a fine scratch about an inch long on my 200 at the front of the post. i know for sure it's not from anything i've done, but i don't understand it.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Wearing of the anodizing on the centerline of the front of the post is keyway scoring. It starts to show at the base of the post at full extension. It will only get worse over time and will affect the x ring seal so air will start to leak.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

cunningstunts said:


> what the hell is up with 'keyway scoring'?? i have a fine scratch about an inch long on my 200 at the front of the post. i know for sure it's not from anything i've done, but i don't understand it.


I'll go out on a limb and guess they told you they've never seen it before? Obviously they're on a learning curve. The design holds a lot of promise but isn't bombproof yet. The 200 has more bending load than the shorter strokes. I don't think they've solved for that yet.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

you guys are freaking me out here. i just saw it a couple of days ago and haven't communicated it to them yet. i love this dam post, it better not fail me, i'm expecting at least 5 solid years outta this thing! (on year 5 of my KS Lev, one home rebuild, one internal cleaning, year round use on primary bike)


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

alexbn921 said:


> Wearing of the anodizing on the centerline of the front of the post is keyway scoring...


Not necessarily, almost unlikely. Posted by manufacturer on another dropper forum: upper stanchion bends under the load and contacts inner surface of the lower tube, which scratches it, especially on longer droppers.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

So with my third failure (second air leak thru the X ring) I got to thinking about the whole X ring design. I've seen X rings in use on Moto chains but really nowhere else and certainly not in a pressure application.

I can practically set my calendar by the frequency of X ring failure on these things...every 2-3 months of daily riding. It's flawless until...it's not. The last time new X rings would still leak after a few weeks.

So why is it that 9.8 still uses an X ring and separate wiper? I asked myself what others use for a reciprocating dynamic shaft seal. Look at any fork or any other dropper post...they all use a lip seal. And many of those hold far greater pressures than the measly 25 psi the Fallline needs to hold.

My rebuild kit arrives Wednesday from 9.8. They told me it was an updated design but that's all they would say. If it's just an iteration of the X ring I'm going to try to find a lip seal that will fit the post/nut dimensions to replace the X ring and wiper. I figure most of the dropper have a similar post (stanchion) diameter. The challenge may be if the ID of the nut is big enough for a lip seal.

I love this post when it works flawlessly for 2 months. I pull my friggin hair out when it starts losing air every 2 months.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

dodger said:


> So with my third failure (second air leak thru the X ring) I got to thinking about the whole X ring design. I've seen X rings in use on Moto chains but really nowhere else and certainly not in a pressure application.
> 
> I can practically set my calendar by the frequency of X ring failure on these things...every 2-3 months of daily riding. It's flawless until...it's not. The last time new X rings would still leak after a few weeks.
> 
> ...


I just rebuilt a 175mm the other day, I did not notice anything that was updated in my kit, it was definitely the same X Ring. If they have updated something, why would it not be available on the site? Can you post up some pics before you install it? I'd like to see what the difference is.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

I'll take pics and document any updated process. They told me they didn't even have a video for it yet. They did say it required a full rebuild whereas you can do the X ring without rebuilding by just sliding the X ring over the lower tube.


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

As a counter point to all the problems people are posting here, I have been running my 150mm Fall line for 3 years with no problem. I have greased the top nut a few times and replaced the cable twice before switching to a hacked shift lever, which is far better than the stock remote. Love this post.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

Skooks said:


> As a counter point to all the problems people are posting here, I have been running my 150mm Fall line for 3 years with no problem. I have greased the top nut a few times and replaced the cable twice before switching to a hacked shift lever, which is far better than the stock remote. Love this post.


The issues seam more prevalent on the longer travel posts. I don't understand why...

There's greater translation so conceivably faster wear.

The longer stroke might equate to greater pressure build up at full drop (though the volume should be more to begin with so maybe not).

Greater bending forces but that should only impact the bushing and keyway wear.

Frustrated by what is otherwise a top notch product hamstrung by a cheesy air seal.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

*New seal support ring*









So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.

Bear in mind my bike and post see daily use so the interval of service will be proportional to someone that rides 1 or 2x a week.. There's no visible degradation to the X ring after 2 to 3 months but sure enough it starts leaking. I installed a new X ring and this new foam holder and all is fine for now.

A couple tips for ya'll:

1. The X rings are available in bulk from McMaster Carr for dirt cheap. I believe it's a -214 if memory serves. Pretty sure 25 were under $10

2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Thanks for posting, dodger. I was not expecting that. I'm skeptical, but looking forward to future updates. I'm holding off on buying the full rebuild kit for now. Hopefully, this extends service life.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

dodger said:


> 2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.


Man, I was cussing and yelling so much the first time I tried to do the install on the keys.!! Ha! Bike maintenance is such a trip, huh?

Thanks for the info and details


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

They really need to ditch the X ring/wiper and go with a lip seal like every other fork/dropper in the world. Air retention with a seal was figured out eons ago in the engineering world so it's frustrating that something so easy is the Achilles heel of this otherwise awesome post.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

dodger said:


> View attachment 1173192
> 
> 
> So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.
> ...


Ok.... thanks for posting. Is that foam ring holder available yet on their site? Man i just did a rebuild without it! And yeah, I don't really want to play around with the keys again! Let us know how the post functions, do you notice any difference in operation? Smoother return?


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

monts said:


> Ok.... thanks for posting. Is that foam ring holder available yet on their site? Man i just did a rebuild without it! And yeah, I don't really want to play around with the keys again! Let us know how the post functions, do you notice any difference in operation? Smoother return?


No difference in operation/feel. Hoping the difference is in longevity. I'm guessing the seal ring perforations will aid long term continued lubrication of the X ring or possibly they're to prevent some odd localized pressure build up between the X ring and seal holder?


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

So their crack customer service team got back to me with modified instructions...a day after the new part arrived!

Fortunately there was nothing earth shattering:

1) Don't use the nut assembly for the purpose of key insertion (have people been doing this?) The video doesn't suggest that and it would seam obvious to me not to bugger up the foam trying to do so

2) Only light coat of grease on the X-ring. I always suspected too much was not ideal. grease is in compressible and trying to squeeze too much into an area could force a leak?

3) Make sure the X ring is fully bottomed in the nut before threading the nut into the post. I'm paraphrasing here because their modified instructions desperately need a competent tech writer. They suggest a soft tool to do so but I can't think of anything that will easily fit in the nut/Xring annulus. Maybe the blunt edge of an allen wrench but I would just suggest using the foam holder/seal support ring and pushing it axially to fully bottom the X ring. I think they're trying to prevent rotational degradation if the X ring is not fully bottomed and then threaded onto the post.

4) The most interesting thing was they said the new foam holder/seal support ring actually gets crushed on installation now. I am guessing they are using the foam as secondary air retention if the ring gets crushed, compressing the foam into the annulus? Seams very agricultural to me.

They really need a V3 nut that will accommodate a lip seal and be done with this air leakage nonsense.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

... and wrench flats


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

dodger said:


> So their crack customer service team got back to me with modified instructions...a day after the new part arrived!
> 
> Fortunately there was nothing earth shattering:
> 
> ...


1. I slide the nut assembly close to the top of the keys to kind of hold them together, but once you realize you can mess up the foam ring it was obvious to not to put any pressure on it.

2. I'm cheap with the grease! However, during my recent rebuild I had to use more than I wanted to on the keys, but don't think I put too much on the X Ring. Will keep it in mind.

3. If I remember correctly, my X Ring is always buried in the nut from sliding it, I don't remember it moving back out. It seems it would bottom out regardless once you thread it, but I guess they are saying it does not?

4. So the new foam ring holder thing gets crushed when you thread it? What happens when you pull it back apart to do a re-lube?


----------



## azfishman (May 7, 2010)

Another vote for 9.8

Mine was installed in August of 2015.....AZ, lots of heat, dry and dusty. I'm a terrible mechanic and I thought the install was easy with their instructions. Didn't touch it for about a year except wipe downs. One brake rest in Montana. Finally did the foam ring re lube myself and have done it a handful of times since. Recently developed an air leak. 9.8 Customer service answered the phone and quickly responded to emails. It went back on Friday and will get the V2 nut. I don't look at the changes to the design as an admission of flaws, rather a desire to make a great product even better. Almost 2.5 yrs of service and our season here is almost year round....I'll take that any day. 

I understand it sucks and is frustrating to have your problems, but just wanted others to know that for every person with an issue, there's a whole bunch of others out there riding with no problems....

Hope you get your post issues resolved soon...


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

You can add me to the list of scoring on the front centerline of the post stanchion. I noticed it a couple of days ago while changing the saddle. It's a very fine score, can hardly feel it, at the moment. I have the 150mm version. At the moment the post is working fine.

I assume the repair involves sending the dropper back for a new stanchion. Have they figured out why this is occurring?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

trail-blazer said:


> You can add me to the list of scoring on the front centerline of the post stanchion. I noticed it a couple of days ago while changing the saddle. It's a very fine score, can hardly feel it, at the moment. I have the 150mm version. At the moment the post is working fine.
> 
> I assume the repair involves sending the dropper back for a new stanchion. Have they figured out why this is occurring?


I've been hearing that it is not because of the keys (referred to as 'keyway scores') and that it is a result of having the seat post too tight. I don't know, I really don't run my seat post overly tight, it's a QR, but I have 3 perfectly spaced on the front of my post.


----------



## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

monts said:


> I've been hearing that it is not because of the keys (referred to as 'keyway scores') and *that it is a result of having the seat post too tight.* I don't know, I really don't run my seat post overly tight, it's a QR, but I have 3 perfectly spaced on the front of my post.


Yeah, I'm not too sure about that either. I don't have my QR too tight to allow the post to rotate in a crash. The scores only appeared within the last 3-4 rides meaning I went over 18 months with none or any other issues.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

today i went biking in some cold temps 15-19F degrees with the wind chill, and initially the dropper was slow to extend and eventually it just stopped extending period. when i got home, i checked the air pressure and it was at 0psi. i've never had this happen before. i had put in 30psi the week earlier.

i was out earlier this week in about 32F degrees and everything was fine.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I think I've come up with a fix for slow return speeds in dust (La Niña in Arizona levels of dust). Regreasing of everything with their recommended grease only resulted in satisfactory performance for a few rides in really dusty conditions.

Now what I do is just hose down the upper tube with Maxima SC1 before every ride:
https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-S...TF8&qid=1514434540&sr=1-1&keywords=maxima+sc1

It takes all of 2 seconds. A can lasts me about a season, and has many uses. The trick is to never wipe off the upper tube of the Fall Line after applying, just leave the full coat on. I fastidiously apply SC1 to my fork stanchions and shock body before every ride, wiping down after a minute to cure, but this is not the appropriate approach for the Fall Line. Run it wet.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I think I've come up with a fix for slow return speeds in dust (La Niña in Arizona levels of dust). Regreasing of everything with their recommended grease only resulted in satisfactory performance for a few rides in really dusty conditions.
> 
> Now what I do is just hose down the upper tube with Maxima SC1 before every ride:
> https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-S...TF8&qid=1514434540&sr=1-1&keywords=maxima+sc1
> ...


I've used silicone spray on my KS LEV with good results but was always hesitant to use it on the 9.8 because they swear by the special grease and not to mix with anything else. You've had no issues? I might give it a try. I'm tired of slopping grease on this thing every ride.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Yeah, I don't think they tested their grease in the Southwest. I haven't had any air loss from seal failures after testing this approach this season, April to the present.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

You need to be careful that it doesn't migrate into the brake compartment. 9p8 recommends that P10L grease because it doesn't separate and get oily, which would heighten the chance that the brake gets contaminated.

It goes without saying, but Brake + Lube = bad.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I've had a contaminated brake in the past, but successfully cleaned it up. It's documented earlier in this thread. This was before I started testing with the SC1, and I suspect the oil was from the shock pump after pumping up my fork.

Haven't had a problem with the SC1. It's not an oil, just a light coat of silicone, most of which is scraped off at the wiper.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Yes, I've had similar problem and I only use P10L. I'm just stating what 9p8 claims as the reason for pushing that P10L grease.

I'd still argue that SC1 has more likelihood of contaminating the brake than P10L. Silicone is great stuff, but spray a little on your rotors and it's lights out.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Even if it eventually does contaminate the brake at a rate of once every sixth months, that service interval is far superior to the three rides I get from their recommended grease, freshly packed, in the conditions I ride.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

dodger said:


> View attachment 1173192
> 
> 
> So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.
> ...


So their fancy new foam holder doesn't do squat. 3 weeks and my post is leaking slowly already. Was actually doing it by 2 weeks but I couldn't find the leak with a soap bubble test so I chalked it up to anomaly. I did a submerge test just now and found a slow leak past the wiper. Good thing I bought that batch of X rings at McMaster Carr.

I'm over this post now. Somebody else please make a 200 post that I don't have to service every couple weeks. PLEASE!


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

damn....I didn't have a lot of faith in that fix. I still like the post - it'll just have to keep up the service. Appreciate the update.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

On the plus side, that looks like it would be an economical and light weight substitute for a wedding band.


----------



## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I wish there was a grease port on that collar.


----------



## mwalker411 (Feb 19, 2006)

Anybody else have their post at 9point8 for warranty work right now? I sent mine in 3 weeks ago and they said they were held up waiting on new X-rings from Germany, but they were supposed to be in at the first of this week. At first they were very prompt with their responses to my emails but they just dropped off the map, I haven't heard back from them in a week and I called yesterday and left a VM and haven't gotten a call back, just wondering what is going on up there.


----------



## mwalker411 (Feb 19, 2006)

Update - they just got back to me, they are getting their seals in today and are going to get the posts that are in for warranty out ASAP. I love this post, I really hope this fixes the problem.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

If they have to order standard X rings all the way from Germany then they should realize their design is not robust. I too love my post, when it holds air!!

The redesigned seal support ring didn't help my X-ring hold for more than 2 weeks. The replacement is holding now at 1.5 weeks. They are sending my past complete post back as they claim it's now holding air with the updated seal support ring.

I'll say it again...these guys need Nut V3 with a proper SKF energized lip seal/wiper.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I don't see the issue with an x-ring, isn't that what most MTB shocks use? The ones that i've serviced, anyways. They see a lot more in-and-out action than my dropper ever will!

Oh well, glad to see that i'm not the only one with this problem. I have done the "quick service" and the "full service" myself but still am getting a lot of the grease coming out the top after a few weeks. Usually that happens for a while and then the air starts coming out. 

I have a 175mm and a 150mm. I've had good luck on the 175mm by running slickoleum instead of the 9point8 grease. The slickoleum being a thicker grease (and having been told by a 9point8 tech that it's okay to use) seems like it might be less likely to migrate past the x-ring. That is also what every shock i've repaired has recommended as a lubricant for seals. 

Agreed that it would be nice to fit the sealhead from a Fox Transfer or Thomson seatpost onto the 9point8.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Porch said:


> I don't see the issue with an x-ring, isn't that what most MTB shocks use? The ones that i've serviced, anyways. They see a lot more in-and-out action than my dropper ever will!


I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.


Good point! Wonder if the V2 seal head could just me opened up enough to take a fox or Thomson seal.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.


100%! I think that's what 9.8 is missing. Lab tests aren't going to replicate this unless they plan accordingly. A spring energized lip seal is more suited to accommodating minor displacements.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The main problem with the seal head is that while x-rings are great at holding air they suck at wiping lube. These post puke all the lube out. My fork doesn't leak a drop of oil and My post shouldn't either.
If they want to keep the x-ring then they need a lipped seal on the outer dust wiper.
I personally think that the x-ring should be replaced with dual lipped seals.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

half_man_half_scab said:


> I've had a contaminated brake in the past, but successfully cleaned it up. It's documented earlier in this thread. This was before I started testing with the SC1, and I suspect the oil was from the shock pump after pumping up my fork.
> 
> Haven't had a problem with the SC1. It's not an oil, just a light coat of silicone, most of which is scraped off at the wiper.


Rode very muddy wet conditions yesterday, used a small shot of silicone spray before my ride and post returned much better. based on past experience I know for sure the 9.8 grease would not have held up, but the silicone spray worked.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

alexbn921 said:


> The main problem with the seal head is that while x-rings are great at holding air they suck at wiping lube. These post puke all the lube out. My fork doesn't leak a drop of oil and My post shouldn't either.
> If they want to keep the x-ring then they need a lipped seal on the outer dust wiper.
> I personally think that the x-ring should be replaced with dual lipped seals.


I was thinking about it overnight and I agree with you. My posts only have issues when they run out of lube.

Not sure if you all are familiar with the online o-ring places, but this is a good one:
The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

Two things here...

One is that the x-rings are available in other materials (viton). Are they actually a -214? The person above wasn't sure.

The other is that they make double-lipped wipers that may fit in our application, but I can't say for sure without more measurement. For example: 1 Rod Wiper Seal Universal H-Style [H-1000] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

About the H-Style wipers: 
"H type double lip wipers are one piece snap* in type rod wipers made from 90 durometer urethane. Wiping and sealing functions can be performed from a single component in low pressure systems. As the external lip scrapes foreign matter from the rod, the other lip acts as an effective pressure seal in low pressure pneumatic applications and a secondary seal to trap slight leakage in hydraulic systems."

So it could act as a secondary seal, but i think it's probably too big (tall) to fit.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Maybe a better option is this guy: https://www.amazon.com/SKF-Small-CRWA5-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLJ119M

Our post measures 1" diameter, and our seal head is 1.5"x~0.325" This seal is 1" ID, 1.375" OD, 0.25" tall, so it would fit if someone had a way to ream out the seal head for this to fit. Personally I don't have the machinery to do that professionally, but maybe i could spend some time with a dremel...

Here's what that seal looks like: 








Edit: I ordered one, I'll see how it looks when it gets here. In the meantime, if this is a bad idea i'd love to hear from some of the more experienced people!


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The seal looks like it will work, but fitting it will be difficult. You need a full rubber seal like an skf fork seal. If they just switched to skf fork style seals I think the post would slide smother and keep all of it's lube in. Mine only loses air or slows down when it gets dry.
this might work better.
OS25x32x4mm R23 Oil Seal - Oil Seals - Bearing Shop UK

edit
FOX Kit: 2017 Transfer Seatpost rebuild 803-01-140 - FOX FOX spare parts - Bikes for family | Service | Parts


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Yeah i think you're right, I realized that the spring is on the wrong side of the one i posted. Unfortunately SKF doesn't make a bike seal catalog that I can find on the web with dimensions. Not sure who else makes similar seals.

It would be interesting to measure the shaft of a Fox Transfer and see if it's also a 1" shaft. If so, I bet the seal that comes with those would be easy to adapt to our seal head.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

i could be wrong guys, but wouldn't you think the guys at 9p8 would know all this stuff? i think the founder is a long time engineer and i suspect they have a number of enginerds on staff who analyze these details. 

anyhow, i put a small amt of finish line stanchion lube on mine on occasion to keep it running smooth. only had to do the official lube thing once, but then again the bike isn't seeing regular use at this time of year.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Woohoo, found this! https://www.amazon.com/KS-Wiper-Sea...8&qid=1517082853&sr=1-4&keywords=dropper+seal

Ordered one just to see. Seems like it might be a good fit for the 9point8 seal head once the upper ridge is removed. 25mm internal (just under 1"), 33mm OD (1.299").

Edit: Received the seals, nothing worth writing home about. On the KS shocks they're retained by a locking collar and that's not really possible on the 9point8 seal head.

I found some 25x32x7mm seals, dual lip, with a garter spring and a steel frame on amazon for $4 each, but unfortunately they're coming from China. I'll update when they get here.


----------



## AmadoMTB (Feb 27, 2017)

Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I don’t want to order their grease if I don’t have to.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

AmadoMTB said:


> Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I don't want to order their grease if I don't have to.


Long time ago I learned from a buddy of mine to squirt a few drops of tri-flo around the seal when the post is starting to slow down on the return. Hold down the lever, pump the post up/down a few times, wipe off the excess, enjoy the smooth action. Knock on wood, never contaminated my brake (I also don't hang my bike for storage).

_MK


----------



## AmadoMTB (Feb 27, 2017)

Thank you. Definitely hit it with suspension spray. But I’ve done so many rides in the rain on it that I know it needs a lube job.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

AmadoMTB said:


> Thank you. Definitely hit it with suspension spray. But I've done so many rides in the rain on it that I know it needs a lube job.


Yep, A quick shot of suspension spray gets me through the rain/mud. Otherwise during dry weather I haven't had to use anything other than the 9.8 grease around the seal


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

AmadoMTB said:


> Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I don't want to order their grease if I don't have to.


The 9point8 guy told me on the phone that if you don't have their special grease on hand, then some slickoleum (slick honey, etc.) will do in a pinch.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

Hawseman said:


> Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.
> 
> The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
> It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.


Can you please please provide some commentary how the hell you got the lock ring out? I tried to push the black spacer down per the video on adding spacers and the damn black ring gouged. BTW if 9point8 follows this thread: Use a snap ring here please......with the holes in it so you can actually get the damn thing out. Using a lock ring makes it way harder than it needs to be.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

bikeguy0 said:


> Can you please please provide some commentary how the hell you got the lock ring out? I tried to push the black spacer down per the video on adding spacers and the damn black ring gouged. BTW if 9point8 follows this thread: Use a snap ring here please......with the holes in it so you can actually get the damn thing out. Using a lock ring makes it way harder than it needs to be.


Yes, a circlip would be nice. Believe it or not, the ring comes out easier than it goes in. It's a pecka. On one end of the clip is a lip. You can wedge a small screwdriver and help pry it out, while pushing down on the other side. It's hard to keep it from spinning, but it'll go. Same idea going back in. I work the non-lip side into the slot holding it down and in place, while working the lip end out and down. It's frustrating, but it will go. You really need to have it in a bike stand, but I've had it between my legs sitting. Good luck.
There may be a trick to making this easier, but I am not aware.


----------



## CDIDriver (Mar 27, 2007)

*Cannot Remove Quick Connect from Fall Line Base?*

My LBS attempted shorten my cable housing for my Fall Line post and apparently the cable broke inside and quick connect will not thread out. Has anyone else encountered this dilemma and is there method or process to successfully removing the quick connect without sending the post back to 9.8? My favorite mechanic claims that it will not back out, it just spins clockwise?

















Please any help would be greatly appreciated, I am planning on attending the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival and not looking forward to using a fixed post for the rides.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The brake is probably jammed and not pressing on the walls to hold it in place. Try to unthread the bottom with a cassette tool. You should then have access to the jammed/broken parts.


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

CDIDriver said:


> My LBS attempted shorten my cable housing for my Fall Line post and apparently the cable broke inside and quick connect will not thread out. Has anyone else encountered this dilemma and is there method or process to successfully removing the quick connect without sending the post back to 9.8? My favorite mechanic claims that it will not back out, it just spins clockwise?
> 
> View attachment 1185455
> 
> ...


If the connector is freely spinning and not unthreading, an internal part is broken/damage. There is a square shaft in a square hole that keep the piston from spinning when disconnecting the QD. Your options are send it in, or get new brake/mast assembly.


----------



## mtbboy1993 (Apr 6, 2015)

dodger said:


> I forgot my first failure was accompanied by keyway score too. Obviously these posts are not as bulletproof as we had originally hoped.


I got the Race Face version, the Turbine post has the same internals,

I got the same on two dropper posts. it's time to try something else.








here is my review: https://wp.me/p60aTF-2sW


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

One of the best features of the Fall Line is the seat clamp. I didn't realize that the Turbine didn't use it. That really makes adding air a major pain....not surprised that you rounded off the bolts.
Thanks for review.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

JackP42 said:


> If the connector is freely spinning and not unthreading, an internal part is broken/damage. There is a square shaft in a square hole that keep the piston from spinning when disconnecting the QD. Your options are send it in, or get new brake/mast assembly.


So on one of my posts the connector is a bit tight to get out. I have to put a 8mm box wrench on it so I can wiggle it out. Can you thread back in? I would release all pressure from the post and remove the bottom with a cassette tool. This should allow you to back it out hopefully. Just make sure the connector is fully unthreaded first. Try that first before sending it back. The connector threads in to the brake shaft

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

Hey. BTW don't try a snap ring like the one in first photo below. It gets hung up on the bottom nut. It has to be a style like in the second photo which is harder to find and called a "Constant Section" internal snap/retaining ring. I'm trying to source some just to make it easier to pull the brake when it is needed again.

I used electrical cleaner from autozone and that worked great to clean the brake. The brake was contaminated with a ton of grease. I can't believe it worked at all.

Post is as good as new now. 

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wvtrailbiker (Jan 24, 2008)

How are people getting through to customer service for a ra number!?!? Left a couple messages last fall with no response. Have been running a dvo so i forgot about it over winter. Well a couple weeks a go i decided to try again. So far I have left a total of 6 messages and 2 emails with not one response. My wifes fall line post has never had an issue but mine has been nothing but problems have cleaned the break several times and replaced the seals. Still leaks and slips....worked for the first 2 weeks and that was it.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

wvtrailbiker said:


> How are people getting through to customer service for a ra number!?!? Left a couple messages last fall with no response. Have been running a dvo so i forgot about it over winter. Well a couple weeks a go i decided to try again. So far I have left a total of 6 messages and 2 emails with not one response. My wifes fall line post has never had an issue but mine has been nothing but problems have cleaned the break several times and replaced the seals. Still leaks and slips....worked for the first 2 weeks and that was it.


I made contact with them thru the website a couple of weeks ago. They were very responsive and got back to me quickly. We had some back and forth emails and those were quick exchanges as well.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.

My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.

I ended up buying an AVX shaft seal, 25x33x7mm, from Amazon (more on that later*).

I used a dremel and a sanding drum to remove the lip at the top of the seal head. There is still about 0.2mm difference in the ID vs. the OD of the seal, so you may want to remove a little more than this, or polish down the rubber on the outside of the seal.

At 7mm thick the seal sticks out a little, and I opted to keep the metal washer that locks the bushing in place (even though it adds 1mm to the height). Another problem is that the garter spring is on the wrong side of the seal...I opted to put it "outside" instead of "inside" the dropper, since that's what most manufacturers do (and this is a double-lipped seal, so there will be a seal working on the inside too, it just doesn't have a garter spring).

Anyways, easy project and so far it's fine. Time will tell. I'll update if it helps keep the grease inside. Worst case the difference between a rebuild kit from 9point8 ($53) and a rebuild kit that includes the v2 seal head ($67) is negligible, so you can easily revert.

Lip ground down:








Seal pressed in (I used two boards in a vice):
















* You can order the seal I used directly from the manufacturer here: Shaft Oil Seals TC25x33x7 I started a cart and didn't check out, so they emailed me the code "FreeShip" (not sure if there's a minimum) and "giveme5" ($5 off, unknown minimum). That said, there might be better seals out there...I haven't had time to go through SKF's catalog to find a similar spec seal, but I would have preferred that.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Porch said:


> My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.
> 
> My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.
> 
> ...


Nice work, keep us up to date. 9point8 are you out there? Why doesn't your post have a double lipped seal?


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

SoCal-Rider said:


> I made contact with them thru the website a couple of weeks ago. They were very responsive and got back to me quickly. We had some back and forth emails and those were quick exchanges as well.


Yup same here. Responses were usually same day. Sometimes they took 1-2 days to get back to me. All in all I'd say the CS was pretty solid for a small company.

I bought a second 9.8 dropper recently so that says something.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Porch said:


> My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.
> 
> My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this, my posts generally hold air, but I have one that will always leak if there are temperature fluctuations, such as a warm day and then a cold night. Anyone else?


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

monts said:


> Thanks for this, my posts generally hold air, but I have on that will always leak if there are temperature fluctuations, such as a warm day and then a cold night. Anyone else?


Mine doesn't hold air more than a day, I need to lube it though


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I was in the habit of wiping down my dropper stanchion after every ride. I realised that 9.8 doesn't recommend that and it means more frequent relubing. So I've stopped. I use a Mudhugger rear fender so my dropper never gets really dirty even in winter.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

Porch said:


> My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.
> 
> My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.
> 
> ...


This is outstanding work. Please keep us informed how it goes. For what it's worth 9.8 stepped up to the plate for me. I agree 100% the grease dries or slips past their proprietary wiper and then the X ring dries and leaks. I was to the point of having to replace the X ring every 2-3 weeks since I ride every day. I informed them their updates SSR didn't resolve the problem. They wanted me to send the post back again but I was over being without a post for 3 weeks. They sent me a second post so I could send mine back for evaluation.

This second post has now held air for 3 weeks but I have had to grease it. I am very eager to see how your modification holds.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I also bought a couple of x-rings (-214) and a seal head o-ring (32mm x 2mm) from theoringstore.com. I bought 10 o-rings and 4 x-rings for a total of $10/shipped.

At some point I'll go through and figure out the sizes of all the o-rings in this dropper. So far my bushings have never really developed any slop, so I don't see the point in spending $60+ on the 9point8 rebuild kit.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

One question: did you abandon the X ring and relying on this as the air seal with this mod or is this more about just an improved wiper and taking a belt and suspenders approach to air retention?


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

dodger said:


> One question: did you abandon the X ring and relying on this as the air seal with this mod or is this more about just an improved wiper and taking a belt and suspenders approach to air retention?


I kept the x-ring. Just hoping to keep the lube in the seatpost! Probably doesn't hurt with the air retention, though.


----------



## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

I'll start by saying 9.8's customer service has been great but I send my 200mm fall line back for service due to the post not returning up consistently. I sent it back in November for a service and I've only ridden it 4 times since and I never had a ride where it worked for the whole ride. I'm now debating on selling it and buying a Bike Yoke Revive. I want a post that works and I feel like spending almost $500 should get me a post that at least works for a month before I need to maybe re-lube it. When it works I love the action and the wolf tooth remote is amazing. Any thoughts or ideas. Like I said 9.8 has been good on trying to help me troubleshoot my issues but I hate being without a post now for a few weeks.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

buddiesconfusion said:


> I'll start by saying 9.8's customer service has been great but I send my 200mm fall line back for service due to the post not returning up consistently. I sent it back in November for a service and I've only ridden it 4 times since and I never had a ride where it worked for the whole ride. I'm now debating on selling it and buying a Bike Yoke Revive. I want a post that works and I feel like spending almost $500 should get me a post that at least works for a month before I need to maybe re-lube it. When it works I love the action and the wolf tooth remote is amazing. Any thoughts or ideas. Like I said 9.8 has been good on trying to help me troubleshoot my issues but I hate being without a post now for a few weeks.


ouch, shipping to 9point8 gotta be adding up


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

I've had a few posts from them, they all eventually suffered the seal issue, but I have to hand it to them, at least they were cool and just mailed me some of those SSR kits so I can fix it myself and not be without the post during shipping.


----------



## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

useport80 said:


> ouch, shipping to 9point8 gotta be adding up


No hats off to 9.8 they paid shipping both times. But the weather just got nice today and is supposed to good the rest of the week and I'm Stuck without a bike! Makes me wish gravity dropper makes a internal post with 175-200mm of drop.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Currently riding my backup Lev Integra.

My Fall Line (175mm) has lost it's holding power. I suspect that the contamination that I've been regularly cleaning from the brake chamber is seeping from the brake assembly itself. This was my suspicion when my first brake assembly slipped within the first 100 miles. 9p8 sent me a new one (bravo), but that one did the same. After about 6 cleanings, and using my floor pump to air up as suggested, it's now lost it's holding power. I'm guessing that there is not enough hydraulic fluid in the assembly to push the bladder anymore.

I really like this post and I'm debating purchasing another assembly and giving it one more go. I haven't had any air issues, even after a couple of full maintenance rebuilds. 

I'm curious what others who have been battling contamination issues find.


----------



## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

Hawseman said:


> Currently riding my backup Lev Integra.
> 
> My Fall Line (175mm) has lost it's holding power. I suspect that the contamination that I've been regularly cleaning from the brake chamber is seeping from the brake assembly itself. This was my suspicion when my first brake assembly slipped within the first 100 miles. 9p8 sent me a new one (bravo), but that one did the same. After about 6 cleanings, and using my floor pump to air up as suggested, it's now lost it's holding power. I'm guessing that there is not enough hydraulic fluid in the assembly to push the bladder anymore.
> 
> ...


Can you description the slipping a little more? Mine would always hold in position but would lose its return speed i.e. when I wanted it to return to full extension it would take forever to do it or I would have to physically pull it all the way up.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

It went up fine, but wouldn't stay up with my weight and hitting obstacles. A good cleaning of the brake would fix it.


----------



## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

Why is a floor pump recommended over a shock pump?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

pablobell said:


> Why is a floor pump recommended over a shock pump?


The pump doesn't matter as long as it's clean. It's common for shock pumps to suck up air chamber lube and drip it into the next thing you hook up. I use my shock pump, but double check it's clean.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

alexbn921 said:


> The pump doesn't matter as long as it's clean. It's common for shock pumps to suck up air chamber lube and drip it into the next thing you hook up. I use my shock pump, but double check it's clean.


 Can anyone give me any input on the setback seatpost, Like how is the clamp holding up does it feel any different than a regular dropper post. I need a setback sear post for my spot Mayhan this should be the final thing that allows me to dial in this bike! Thanks in advance !


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

My post is leaking at the head. Under the seat clamp area. Not really sure what can be done since this piece does not come off. Has anyone been able to fix this without sending it back?


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

monts said:


> My post is leaking at the head. Under the seat clamp area. Not really sure what can be done since this piece does not come off. Has anyone been able to fix this without sending it back?


Does the flange still align with the graphics on the lower tube, i.e. has the flange started to unthread?
This should be covered under warranty so contact customer service and they can help you get the post returned and repaired.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

JackP42 said:


> Does the flange still align with the graphics on the lower tube, i.e. has the flange started to unthread?
> This should be covered under warranty so contact customer service and they can help you get the post returned and repaired.


No it doesn't align, it's slightly off. I guess I'll contact them unless someone chimes in with a cure for the moment, I have a race this weekend.


----------



## Rootsboy (Mar 25, 2013)

dgw7000 said:


> Can anyone give me any input on the setback seatpost, Like how is the clamp holding up does it feel any different than a regular dropper post. I need a setback sear post for my spot Mayhan this should be the final thing that allows me to dial in this bike! Thanks in advance !


I had a offset seat clamp ordered from the start, so I can't compare with the normal clamp.
But I'm guessing it's the same, I have no issues with it.
I needed to offset my seat, as I have a 32inch inseam, but riding a med frame, and I found my seat would always be pushed back past the safe point on the rails.
Having the offset clamp solved that, and it still works in exactly the same way for easy access to the seatpost valve if needed.
I have had mine for a year and a half now, and only just starting to get a little air loss which is rectified each or every other ride with a quick top-up.
I have a v2 nut rebuild kit on the way which I am hoping will fix that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Rootsboy said:


> I had a offset seat clamp ordered from the start, so I can't compare with the normal clamp.
> But I'm guessing it's the same, I have no issues with it.
> I needed to offset my seat, as I have a 32inch inseam, but riding a med frame, and I found my seat would always be pushed back past the safe point on the rails.
> Having the offset clamp solved that, and it still works in exactly the same way for easy access to the seatpost valve if needed.
> ...


Thanks for your input!! Just ordered 31.6 150mm with the 25mm offset, this should be the last thing I need to do for proper fit on my Spot Mayham 29er. 
Any one that needs service out of warr. highly recommend Mavericksuspension.com.The Flow Zone Ethan Franklin is a master at Dropper Post and all Front and rear shocks. Great prices and fast turn-a-round. He likes the 9point8 droppers!!


----------



## Wareagle (Jan 28, 2009)

OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper. 

I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over. 

One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Wareagle said:


> Anyone else experiencing this?


Yep, almost stripped the head. I definitely smelled the burn, but grease helped mine.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Wareagle said:


> OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper.
> 
> I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over.
> 
> One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?


Welcome to the club, i guess!

I have the same issue with my bolt. I think it's just oxidation. But that is kinda besides the point because you shouldn't have to be regreasing and refilling every couple weeks.

I'd suggest at the very least going to theoringstore.com and buying some "-214" x-wipers and trying to replace yours again. I've had mixed luck, sometimes an x-wiper replacement fixes all my issues and sometimes it starts leaking again right away. At least with these $2 wipers it doesn't matter too much.

So far my AVX shaft seal (see post above) is working great, too.


----------



## Wareagle (Jan 28, 2009)

Okay, glad it's not just me. I wonder if this is a thing with titanium bolts. I don't think I have any other Ti bolts on my bike.


----------



## Wareagle (Jan 28, 2009)

Porch said:


> Welcome to the club, i guess!
> 
> I have the same issue with my bolt. I think it's just oxidation. But that is kinda besides the point because you shouldn't have to be regreasing and refilling every couple weeks.
> 
> ...


I'll check that out. An earlier post mentioned McMaster Carr, but I couldn't find them on there, so I'll check out theoringstore. I saw the AVX mod, but not sure if I'm quite ready for something like that. Maybe if I get another dropper I might try it, as at least I wouldn't have to worry about messing it up (as it does at least sort of function most of the time now).


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

I had the same issue and solved it with some thin stainless washers under the bolt heads


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Just did a complete wear item rebuild (V1 to V2 nut) on my Fall Line V1 after 2.5 years of service. Not that bad of a job, followed the YouTube video. Took 2 beers 

Couple of points of advice for anyone tackling this themselves:

I didn't buy the Fall Line brake release tool, instead I went to Home Depot and bought an M7x1.0 - 80mm bolt for $0.97. I used a flat washer + 1/4" thick nut (I think it was 5/16" or 3/8", wide enough that it easily slipped over the shaft of the bolt) as spacers between the bolt head and the Park Tool cassette removal tool.

Also, when they say use and elastic rubber band to hold the keys in the key pockets, you want that SOB tight. And you want it more on the top half of the keys. That was the hardest part of the rebuild!


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

06HokieMTB said:


> Just did a complete wear item rebuild (V1 to V2 nut) on my Fall Line V1 after 2.5 years of service. Not that bad of a job, followed the YouTube video. Took 2 beers
> 
> Couple of points of advice for anyone tackling this themselves:
> 
> ...


I see that 9point8 has a tool for the key install now. I wonder how it works. I agree that this is a pain. The foam ring takes a beating when you push the nut down to hold the top of the keys in place.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Hawseman said:


> I see that 9point8 has a tool for the key install now. I wonder how it works. I agree that this is a pain. The foam ring takes a beating when you push the nut down to hold the top of the keys in place.


The tool looks like it might work, there's a video on the site. I'd try anything over the rubber band method. horrible. I have a Bike yoke dropper that takes about 3 seconds to put the keys back in. so simple.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Yeah, Kindshock is simpler too. I do think the 9point8 has the least amount of play of all the droppers I have pissed money away on. I think the key-way design is a big part. I can't comment on the Bike Yoke dropper (assuming Revive).

I've done droppers since the Pricepoint Sette post of the early 2K's (which I think still works). I've seen so much hype on this forum for every new dropper....then comes season 2. We'll see what happens with the Revive. I'm watching that one closely.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

Wareagle said:


> OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper.
> 
> I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over.
> 
> One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?


I had this problem as well, and did round out the bolt eventually. It was a royal pain in the ass getting it out. And the stock hardware cost $30, probably better to replace with steel. I've used anti-seize and its been fine since.


----------



## ejhorn (Jun 22, 2010)

Has anyone experimented with installing a mechanical spring to replace the sir spring? I love so much about this post but the issues it has not holding air are making me start to look at other options. I really like how the post is user serviceable, light, good seat clamp, and the brake has been 100% reliable. I used to have a gravity dropper and that thing was totally bombproof, I can't help but think that if someone (or 9point8) would put in a mechanical spring it would be perfect.


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Puting mechanical spring inside would make the dropper too heavy and technically is not possible too, because there is brake inside so the stanchion inner surface must be smooth (not possible with operated spring inside).


----------



## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

I've noticed I pretty much have to spray some wd40 or similar on a rag on wipe my post down every ride or it will function very and kind of step it's way up rather then smooth, do I just need to pull it apart and re grease?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Austin-nc said:


> I've noticed I pretty much have to spray some wd40 or similar on a rag on wipe my post down every ride or it will function very and kind of step it's way up rather then smooth, do I just need to pull it apart and re grease?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Yes, it will then be good for 2 weeks 😀


----------



## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

monts said:


> Yes, it will then be good for 2 weeks


Eh I might just keep oiling it every ride haha, noticed it's worse when it's stores with the seat down it barely comes up. It came on the bike when I bought it used so not as annoying as if I would have bought it myself. Other than that it seems to work great I've added air to it only once. Deff gets a workout on this up and down NC single track

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

PeterG said:


> Puting mechanical spring inside would make the dropper too heavy and technically is not possible too, because there is brake inside so the stanchion inner surface must be smooth (not possible with operated spring inside).


It might be possible to fit a spring below the stanchion inside the upper tube. Don't know if there is enough space though


----------



## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

Be careful with that. If you overdo it with the oil, it could end up contaminating the brake and cause it to slip. Happened to me and I had to take the post apart and clean it. Best to grease the upper nut with the proper grease


----------



## PeterG (Mar 11, 2004)

Skooks said:


> It might be possible to fit a spring below the stanchion inside the upper tube. Don't know if there is enough space though


There is no space below the stanchion when it's compressed - the reason why it is not possible unless you (and bike frame) accept at least 15 cm longer lower tube .


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

PeterG said:


> There is no space below the stanchion when it's compressed - the reason why it is not possible unless you (and bike frame) accept at least 15 cm longer lower tube .


Can confirm. I did a bunch of measurements to see if I could fit a spring in there and there is absolutely no room.

The e13 dropper is only $250 new and i'm sure you can catch it on sale. It has a mechanical mechanism (though it's not truly "infinite", if i understand correctly) and uses a return spring instead of air. Their first year had a few issues but supposedly the current model is good. Rebuild kits are $30. That's where I will go once my 9point8 goes beyond repair.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I own an Easton 150mm dropper and a Raceface 150mm dropper, both based on 9.8 tech, they both work pretty good overall, no leakdown while riding, lots of hours ridden in the three+ years I've had them, never rebuilt, used often while riding, no issues other than slow return at temps below freezing.

Then I splurged for a 9.8, what a friggin nightmare! First I got one that was too long, my fault of course, but the return process and shipping cost was astronomical. I get that they are in Canada, but they get $40 just to accept the post back, plus shipping both ways, regardless of whether the post is used or unused. Then it's weeks of waiting.

So I get the second post and it leaks down fast enough that I have to pump it up during a an hour long ride. I exchanged numerous emails, they seems to struggles with the idea that a new post could have a problem, so I finally got them to accept the post back, with weeks and weeks of downtime. In the meantime I got an E13 post... which was half the price and worked perfectly.

I sold the replacement post as soon as it arrived at a loss, total cost of this mistake including shipping, return inspection fee, and loss at resale was ~$250. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I have an older Fall Line with the V1 nut. I thought my upper stanchion had "spun" but didn't know how that could happen without trashing the keyways. I am assuming since my seat is no longer aligned with the logo on the rear of the post that the head assembly has rotated. I am not getting any loss of performance as the post still works great. Never been rebuilt. I simply rotated the entire seatpost in the seat tube to maintain seat alignment. Any concerns?


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Andy13 said:


> I have an older Fall Line with the V1 nut. I thought my upper stanchion had "spun" but didn't know how that could happen without trashing the keyways. I am assuming since my seat is no longer aligned with the logo on the rear of the post that the head assembly has rotated. I am not getting any loss of performance as the post still works great. Never been rebuilt. I simply rotated the entire seatpost in the seat tube to maintain seat alignment. Any concerns?


Hey mine did this and it was fine at first. But it took another hit and started leaking air. I had to send it back to 9.8 for repair, you can't do it yourself. Keep an eye on it, but I would not leave this post too tight in the seat clamp to avoid during a crash.


----------



## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I actually got a return phone call from 9point8 support from leaving a phone message. They called me back in less than a day and told me just what "Monts" posted. Keep an eye on it and if it does start leaking then it will need to be returned to them for re-torquing of the top piece. I am assuming that it will eventually start leaking air. Is there a seal between the two pieces or is it just locktited and torqued, anyone tried to do this themselves?
Overall I am very happy with the performance of the seatpost. Many seasons of hard riding and this is the first issue I've had. 
TIA
Andy


----------



## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

gone_riding said:


> Same here. It rotated on a fall two weeks after I got it. I straightened it then sent it in at the end of the season to be warrantied (as they suggested). I got it back last week.


Just to be clear here, because this happened to me. The seat/head/rail assembly is screwed on to the post? So I can tighten it? I can turn mine back and forth - should I tighten it somehow, or just point it straight and that's the best I can do until I send it back to 9point8 ? Mine spins pretty easily now ... 2 different crashes seem to have really knocked it loose.

thanks


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

slcpunk said:


> Just to be clear here, because this happened to me. The seat/head/rail assembly is screwed on to the post? So I can tighten it? I can turn mine back and forth - should I tighten it somehow, or just point it straight and that's the best I can do until I send it back to 9point8 ? Mine spins pretty easily now ... 2 different crashes seem to have really knocked it loose.
> 
> thanks


That's pretty much where I was but check for leaking air. Either way I could not figure out a way to tighten myself,


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

I received the following via email from 9point8 this morning:

"If you are happy with your Fall Line seatpost and it is working well,
then this email is not for you.

But if you have a persistent air leak
you may qualify for a FREE permanent repair.

If you have a leak, start by compressing the post down to roughly one inch and remove it from your bike. Pump up your post to approximately 100 psi and fully submerge it in a bucket of water. Take note of any air bubbles that you see and contact [email protected]

If we determine that you have a leak at the primary seal, then you will qualify for a free repair and installation of the newly developed SSR: description below.

Continuous engineering, development and testing in the pursuit of an ever-improving, more reliable dropper post has identified a potential air leak in some Fall Lines.

The SSR has been designed provide better compression to the main seal, effectively stopping all leaks at the main seal.

NOTE: The SSR is compatible with V2 collar nuts ONLY. If you have a Fall Line with a V1 nut and an air leak, contact Customer Service for support."


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

I got it too. I had just emailed them about an air leak the day before too. Didn't realize it was for everyone.


----------



## KTMDirtFace (Aug 7, 2008)

Love my 200mm fall line. Have not read through this thread, but I didn't know of any others with that much drop.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

I, too, got the email. My post has needed more air almost every ride for the last 9 months. Otherwise, it will come up, but will stop in the last inch or so of travel. 

Im glad they are wanting to fix it.... but what is the turnaround time of this gonna be? Am i gonna be without a post for a month while it ships, they fix it, and they ship it back?


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

sooner518 said:


> Im glad they are wanting to fix it.... but what is the turnaround time of this gonna be? Am i gonna be without a post for a month while it ships, they fix it, and they ship it back?


You can fix it at home in a couple hours if you want. It's just a normal overhaul [video on site] and instead of using an older part you use a new part [SSR = Seal Support Ring]. I'm sure they'd send you the part if you asked them and then your downtime is the one afternoon for the overhaul.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

They are sending me everything I need to upgrade the post at home including the brake tool and lube.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

ah. thanks for the heads up. That is much preferable. I need to actually do their underwater test and check for bubbles but im pretty sure mine will be leaking.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

sooner518 said:


> ah. thanks for the heads up. That is much preferable. I need to actually do their underwater test and check for bubbles but im pretty sure mine will be leaking.


FWIW - I had some leaks during the UW test. Opened up my head and relubed it being careful for how the seal was sitting and that got rid of the leaks without installing any new parts.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

alexbn921 said:


> They are sending me everything I need to upgrade the post at home including the brake tool and lube.


Perfect :thumbsup:


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi, my current post start leaking air only in the closed state, so with the saddle -up - it holds air just fine; however, when saddle is down - it takes few hours to completely loose air;

I assume the problem is in top nut seals, since in case of an internal leak - it should lose air all of the time;

The question is - will nut V2 fix following problem?


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Nick_M said:


> I assume the problem is in top nut seals, since in case of an internal leak - it should lose air all of the time;


When the post is up the seals face 25psi of pressure. When the post is down it's a lot higher. So leaks when the post is down, but not up are understandable.

If you haven't re-lubed the dropper recently I would give that a whirl. It's fast and easy.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

vikb said:


> When the post is up the seals face 25psi of pressure. When the post is down it's a lot higher. So leaks when the post is down, but not up are understandable.
> 
> If you haven't re-lubed the dropper recently I would give that a whirl. It's fast and easy.


post will not leak air in case it almost fully down (1 inch left ) also;
Post was serviced properly month ago, so I assume there should be an appropriate amount of grease, probably there is something with last few mm of the post and seal that cause leaks; not sure how to fix that;

Any air leaks are not acceptable,


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Nick_M said:


> Hi, my current post start leaking air only in the closed state, so with the saddle -up - it holds air just fine; however, when saddle is down - it takes few hours to completely loose air;
> 
> I assume the problem is in top nut seals, since in case of an internal leak - it should lose air all of the time;
> 
> The question is - will nut V2 fix following problem?


It will for a few weeks, it was pretty awesome to have a working post again after I rebuilt mine, now mine takes about 8 seconds to go back up.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

kitejumping said:


> It will for a few weeks, it was pretty awesome to have a working post again after I rebuilt mine, now mine takes about 8 seconds to go back up.


Correct if I'm wrong, that actually means that v2 is not fixing the problem since v1 with new seal stayed true for +-2 weeks;

too bad, since that's the only dropper that allows the user to lift the bike by saddle as well as user serviceable

Thanks for the quick reply;


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Nick_M said:


> Correct if I'm wrong, that actually means that v2 is not fixing the problem since v1 with new seal stayed true for +-2 weeks;
> 
> too bad, since that's the only dropper that allows the user to lift the bike by saddle as well as user serviceable
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply;


Both my 9.8's are holding air fine. Both are the V2 nut.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Nick_M said:


> Correct if I'm wrong, that actually means that v2 is not fixing the problem since v1 with new seal stayed true for +-2 weeks;


Not sure if you saw the post above, but 9.8 is offering free seal upgrades. I don't know whether that works with the V1 nut or not, but I'd chat with them and see what the score is.


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Nick_M said:


> Correct if I'm wrong, that actually means that v2 is not fixing the problem since v1 with new seal stayed true for +-2 weeks;
> 
> too bad, since that's the only dropper that allows the user to lift the bike by saddle as well as user serviceable
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply;


I think it is completely random whether it works or not, my 175mm is still perfect after rebuilding it the same time as the 200mm. I rebuilt that one second though and crammed more p10l in than on the 200 so maybe that's the issue. Will likely relube the 200mm with tons of p10l like I did on the 175mm.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

kitejumping said:


> I think it is completely random whether it works or not, my 175mm is still perfect after rebuilding it the same time as the 200mm. I rebuilt that one second though and crammed more p10l in than on the 200 so maybe that's the issue. Will likely relube the 200mm with tons of p10l like I did on the 175mm.


I had a leaking issue on a freshly lubed 9.8. Opened it up and I had put so much grease in there the seal wasn't sitting properly. Cleaned it up and re-positioned the seal. No further leaks. Probably worth a look.


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

vikb said:


> I had a leaking issue on a freshly lubed 9.8. Opened it up and I had put so much grease in there the seal wasn't sitting properly. Cleaned it up and re-positioned the seal. No further leaks. Probably worth a look.


Mine was the opposite, the one with more p10l seems to be holding air longer.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

kitejumping said:


> Mine was the opposite, the one with more p10l seems to be holding air longer.


Ah...sorry I misread. I would still open the leaking one up. The position of that seal is important. It may not be seated correctly.

If you don't have that new seal ring from 9.8 that's worth getting installed as well.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

I have the V1 nut and I tested my post underwater, and air bubbles were coming out. 

I emailed 9.8 and told them I had a V1 nut version of the 150 post. he basically told me i have to buy a rebuild kit (which will contain a V2 nut and the SRS thing) since my post is so old. a bit disappointing but ive been putting off doing that service for a while so i bit the bullet and bought it.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Just Ordered V2 version, will see how it will work, hope it will fix an issue for at least year;
do not want to purchase IPF based droppers at all;

Also is it possible to purchase seat post upper tube itself? in case of damaging original?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Seat tube is available by itself.
Just did the upgrade on my post last night. Overall it was a 5/10 job. Strap wrenches are you friend and you absolutely need a super tight rubber band to get the spring loaded guides back in place. PITA. Get a wooded dowel to lube the center of the tube as it's impossible to reach.
The upper red seal is very low quality with dimples and mold flash still attached. I wish they use skf seals, as this would solve all their air and lube leaking problems. Hopefully they will change this over in the future.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

There's a key install tool on the website now. It looks like it might work (there's a video), but you still have to use a rubber band and 10 tons of grease.


----------



## Rootsboy (Mar 25, 2013)

I went ahead and did a service upgrading to the V2 nut. After 18 months of use I started to notice air loss, not much mind you, I would just top up with air every ride, and as it started to get warmer it seamed like I only needed to do it every two rides, or maybe it was to do with leaving more grease on the edge of the seal.

Anyway I also noticed the quality of the new red seal to be not that great.

I also got the key install kit, I can imagine this part of the job to be a bit tricky if just using a band. 

The only other bit I did differently to the video, was to use a lot more layers of inner tube when holding the shaft, the one layer in the video did not seam enough and I did not want to scratch the shaft at all.

Only a week so far after service, so to soon to report anything, so seams to have gone well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

18 month - not that bad, depending on conditions as well;


----------



## gibsonlespaulspecial (Dec 27, 2012)

I'm looking to upgrade from the 1x remote to something like the digit, but $70 seems crazy. Can you use a KS southpaw or other remotes?


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The digit is made by wolf tooth and they are the best of the best. Check out the dropper lever thread. Once u use a wolf remote nothing else is good enough.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

I would say that is a well spend $70;
I had the same choice year ago and went with RF lever, mainly due to colorful option, it is good, however not that universal as WF


----------



## JackP42 (Nov 16, 2007)

The 9.8 Digit, Wolf Tooth ReMote LA lever, and the RaceFace 1x Hop Up lever are the only 1x levers that I am aware of on the market that have the leverage ratio and cable pull stroke needed for the Fall Line post. Other levers will be high effort, and may not have enough stroke to access the reset function.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

got 80% of my way through the rebuild. no problems at all until i got to the keys install.... how in the **** are you guys installing these things? im gonna have to take it to my shop becuase i just spent 2 hours failing miserably trying to get those things in there.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

sooner518 said:


> got 80% of my way through the rebuild. no problems at all until i got to the keys install.... how in the **** are you guys installing these things? im gonna have to take it to my shop becuase i just spent 2 hours failing miserably trying to get those things in there.


I feel your pain brother.
I about lost my mind trying to get those keys in. By the time I finally did, they were all mangled that it was a complete lost cause. Ended up sending the thing to Canada for factory service.
Those keys !!!!!


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

sooner518 said:


> got 80% of my way through the rebuild. no problems at all until i got to the keys install.... how in the **** are you guys installing these things? im gonna have to take it to my shop becuase i just spent 2 hours failing miserably trying to get those things in there.


It's all about using a wide, strong rubber band wrapped as tight as possible over the keys. I struggled as well the first time. The second time I learned my lesson and it went very smoothly.


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

sooner518 said:


> got 80% of my way through the rebuild. no problems at all until i got to the keys install.... how in the **** are you guys installing these things? im gonna have to take it to my shop becuase i just spent 2 hours failing miserably trying to get those things in there.


Yeah it's a *****. I had to get my wife to be my third hand and we finally managed to get it. I bought the 9point8 tool after that for the next rebuild.


----------



## Rootsboy (Mar 25, 2013)

Yeah just get the tool, it's was suggested to my by the service place where I brought the service kit.
He said it's doable, but on a few occasions it just becomes such a pain. The tool takes those issues away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

You need to use the collar to keep the keys from being pushed up and out of slots. The keys will press pretty deep into the foam ring. I try not to use too much force when pushing down the collar to avoid damaging the ring. I've never ruined one, but they are quite fragile.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

i wish id known there was a tool for that when i ordered the rebuild kit. add in shipping now and that tool costs $40. 

i had a really wide rubber band and i got it pretty tight on there. it just felt like whenever the rubber band would start getting pushed up the post, it would pull the tops of the keys up too, extending them past the grooves. 

i took it to my buddy in the LBS. hes done these before so hopefully he can get it done. the rest of the rebuild was a snap so far. except finding an M7 bolt was surprisingly difficult.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

sooner518 said:


> i wish id known there was a tool for that when i ordered the rebuild kit. add in shipping now and that tool costs $40.
> 
> i had a really wide rubber band and i got it pretty tight on there. it just felt like whenever the rubber band would start getting pushed up the post, it would pull the tops of the keys up too, extending them past the grooves.
> 
> i took it to my buddy in the LBS. hes done these before so hopefully he can get it done. the rest of the rebuild was a snap so far. except finding an M7 bolt was surprisingly difficult.


 Hard to understand why people keep buying this dropper post with all the maintenance and problems involved. Bike Yoke is years ahead, One up for $200 without the remote.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Hard to understand why people keep buying this dropper post with all the maintenance and problems involved. Bike Yoke is years ahead, One up for $200 without the remote.


My count so far is 3 brake failures, 3 X ring failures. The 9.8 guys are responsive and warranty items have been hassle free. They will send parts rather than demand the post back so you're not down for 3 weeks. But I'm nearing the end of my 2 year warranty and not looking forward to the expense. If Bike Yoke had a 200 I'd be all over it. That's the only reason I stick with 9.8...they're the only 200 game in town.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

sooner518 said:


> i wish id known there was a tool for that when i ordered the rebuild kit. add in shipping now and that tool costs $40.
> 
> i had a really wide rubber band and i got it pretty tight on there. it just felt like whenever the rubber band would start getting pushed up the post, it would pull the tops of the keys up too, extending them past the grooves.
> 
> i took it to my buddy in the LBS. hes done these before so hopefully he can get it done. the rest of the rebuild was a snap so far. except finding an M7 bolt was surprisingly difficult.


I used one hand to aid the rubber band and keep the keys from sliding. I didn't know there was a tool available? I could not find an M7 is the US; fortunately 9.8 sent me the M7 release tool when I had a warranty issue.


----------



## sooner518 (Aug 1, 2007)

dgw7000 said:


> Hard to understand why people keep buying this dropper post with all the maintenance and problems involved. Bike Yoke is years ahead, One up for $200 without the remote.


i bought it 2 years ago when it was seemingly the consensus top pick. i havent really had any issues with it until this. my buddy was able to get the keys in pretty easily he said. i got the post put back together but now it feels like theres a lot of friction when the post moves thru its stroke. and it wont come all the way back up. it stops like a half inch from the top....

ill prolly take the nut off and put a bunch more grease in there. taking the nut off isnt that hard, but i have to use channel locks to get any grip on it. and now my new nut has a nice big scratch from where the channel locks gripped the post. why they dont make the top nut hexagonal so you can get at it with a wrench, i have no idea.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

sooner518 said:


> but i have to use channel locks to get any grip on it. and now my new nut has a nice big scratch from where the channel locks gripped the post. why they dont make the top nut hexagonal so you can get at it with a wrench, i have no idea.












If you watch the 9.8 service video they suggest a strap wrench. I have used one several time and there is no damage. Works very well. It's also pretty inexpensive. :thumbsup:

I agree wrench flats would be useful.


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

dodger said:


> If Bike Yoke had a 200 I'd be all over it. That's the only reason I stick with 9.8...they're the only 200 game in town.


Ditto


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

dgw7000 said:


> Hard to understand why people keep buying this dropper post with all the maintenance and problems involved. Bike Yoke is years ahead, One up for $200 without the remote.


My Revive's seat clamp head snapped off. I was lucky I wasn't going down chunder. Pretty quick turn around with remaining original parts. Puked oil into my frame after 4 rides. No biggy until I went to a slacker setup with longer reach. Now I want more drop than what my 150 Transfer offers. So I could put the 185 Revive back on or my 175 9.8. Based on past experience, both will fail in under 4-6 months. Current gen Reverb creaked like crazy. KS has a spotty CS rep. I want a 175 or even a 200 Transfer for my 35in inseam. Then again, my Transfers don't have many hours on them. But they do have good rep.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Also being able to service them yourself at home is a big plus, the newer videos 9point8 uploaded have all the steps in detail. I think one can expect all droppers to fail after a while, at least the 9point8s are easy to service.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

dgw7000 said:


> Hard to understand why people keep buying this dropper post with all the maintenance and problems involved. Bike Yoke is years ahead, One up for $200 without the remote.


If BY made a dropper with a setback head I'd be happy to try one.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm in a dilemma, I bought the 9point8 setback dropper for my Spot Mayham 29er because I just could not get the saddle back far enough. It arrived in the mail but then I just decided to sell the Mayham and not install the new post and just return it. I bought the post from an add on Pike Bike the seller said he was an authorized dealer of 9point8 well he's not!! He would not allow return of post even though it was new in box. I just got the money back through paypal claim. Anyway lesson learned. I do like 9point8 as a company they were very nice and the post felt like a piece of art in my hand the setback clamp was well made. My new bike coming Yeti SB100 I will need 150mm dropper with no setback so trying to decide what post to get. I have 2 Fox droppers now and they have been perfect for almost a year. I just worry about going with 9point8 and having problems, I almost think I should have an back up post just in case!!


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The 9point8 and the Bike yoke are the 2 best posts on the market. I have been running mine for 1.5 years and will continue to run it for the foreseeable future. Being able to service it at home with all parts available is a huge bonus to me.
I see it like King hubs. Yes they take more maintenance than DT swiss, but service is easy and they will last a lifetime.
9point8 has the longest post on the market and the only setback head too. They need a better top wiper and their post will be perfect.


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

dgw7000 said:


> I'm in a dilemma, I bought the 9point8 setback dropper for my Spot Mayham 29er because I just could not get the saddle back far enough. It arrived in the mail but then I just decided to sell the Mayham and not install the new post and just return it. I bought the post from an add on Pike Bike the seller said he was an authorized dealer of 9point8 well he's not!! He would not allow return of post even though it was new in box. I just got the money back through paypal claim. Anyway lesson learned. I do like 9point8 as a company they were very nice and the post felt like a piece of art in my hand the setback clamp was well made. My new bike coming Yeti SB100 I will need 150mm dropper with no setback so trying to decide what post to get. I have 2 Fox droppers now and they have been perfect for almost a year. I just worry about going with 9point8 and having problems, I almost think I should have an back up post just in case!!


If you buy a 9point8 now it will come with the new seal that solves the air. Even with the old seals all 3 of my 9point8s are fine. One had a little air loss last year but a cleaning and greasing fixed it.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Installed v2 nut, will post in a month how it works, as for now it is add's nice red collar to the post;

PS v2 fits race face droppers perfectly, all spare parts interchangable


----------



## CUP-TON (Dec 7, 2016)

FYI- 9point8 has their droppers on sale. $299 75-150mm $319 175-200mm


----------



## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

Lelandjt said:


> If you buy a 9point8 now it will come with the new seal that solves the air. Even with the old seals all 3 of my 9point8s are fine. One had a little air loss last year but a cleaning and greasing fixed it.


What did you do for a cleaning?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nolan17 (Jun 9, 2009)

Any updates on the 200mm posts? I got mine a while back and have not had any luck getting it to work. It just drops randomly and is the most frustrating thing I've dealt with especially since I've got a new frame that I haven't been able to ride because of it. 

It seems like the posts are needing maintenance every couple weeks and that is not something I want to or will do. I want a post that will just work, no lube, no maintenance, just use it and keep on riding. 

I want to return mine and get a full refund but that doesn't seem likely as several people had to pay restocking fee etc. That being said, has anyone had good luck with updated parts and required no maintenance since? I'm very tall and need a 200mm dropper but I'd rather go with my old KS 150mm post that always works than this post which has never worked in the parking lot of my lbs. 

-Nolan


----------



## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

nolan17 said:


> Any updates on the 200mm posts? I got mine a while back and have not had any luck getting it to work. It just drops randomly and is the most frustrating thing I've dealt with especially since I've got a new frame that I haven't been able to ride because of it.
> 
> It seems like the posts are needing maintenance every couple weeks and that is not something I want to or will do. I want a post that will just work, no lube, no maintenance, just use it and keep on riding.
> 
> ...


I have several with no issues. If it is randomly dropping make sure the lever cable is adjusted properly, there should be no tension on it until you push the lever. Also do the brake reset procedure (hold the lever all the way down for like 10s or so).


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

If yours is dropping for no reason then the brake must be contaminated with grease.
The outer seal dust wipe on these posts sucks and is the number one problem with them. It doesn't keep the grease inside and has a ton of friction. it's just bad in every way.
I have to lube my post every 2 week and while the new seal kit does keep it from leaking air, I'm still disappointing in the post overall.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

My new 175mm [I have two] dropper got used for 4 months with no issues at all. I'm switching over to my winter bike that has a 2yr old 150mm 9.8 dropper that is going strong with no issues.

The post going down when you don't want it to could be one of three things:

1. cable tension is too high...remote level should have some play when you first engage it.
2. brake needs to be "reset"...pull housing out of remote to fully tension the cable for ~10 seconds and release.
3. As alexbn921 noted the brake could be contaminated with grease and would need to be cleaned with some rubbing alcohol. It's obviously worth trying #1 and #2 first as they don't require opening up the post.

I may grab a 3rd dropper while the sale is on.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

nolan17 said:


> Any updates on the 200mm posts? I got mine a while back and have not had any luck getting it to work. It just drops randomly and is the most frustrating thing I've dealt with especially since I've got a new frame that I haven't been able to ride because of it.
> 
> It seems like the posts are needing maintenance every couple weeks and that is not something I want to or will do. I want a post that will just work, no lube, no maintenance, just use it and keep on riding.
> 
> ...


I've had a 200 since they first came out 2 years ago. I've had several X ring failures and 2 or 3 brake failures now. When it works it's a joy, when it doesn't it's incredibly frustrating. In my experience, the new SSR has addressed the X ring longevity but it's very dependent on proper installation and fully seating the X ring in the nut.

Unlike mentioned above, my experience is that brake contamination is not likely. I've not seen it in the 3 or 4 times I've removed the brake. The brakes do fail. Even 9.8 isn't very adept at spotting it. The last brake failure I had they sent me a new one and the new one did the same thing. I ended up returning the post and they claimed they couldn't replicate the issue. I told them again to just let it sit overnight and sure enough they replicated the issue.

All that said, definitely rule out the obvious stuff: sufficient cable slack and free running cable, and full brake reset.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

dodger said:


> The brakes do fail.


What's happening at the brake that's causing it to fail?


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

vikb said:


> What's happening at the brake that's causing it to fail?


I wish I could tell you. There's nothing obvious on visual inspection. In my case I would need to reset the brake and it would hold fine for a little bit but then once it sat overnight (same temp, elevation, etc), it would slip. My guess is air inside the brake. Keep in mind this is a sealed hydraulic brake.

All that said, in the last instance even a new brake did not resolve the issue. I had to send it back for like the 3rd time and 9.8 was rather coy in not telling me what they had to do to fix the issue.

I really wish I didn't need or like the 200 so much...the Bike Yoke Revive 185 would be my go to choice as they seem to have good reliability.


----------



## nolan17 (Jun 9, 2009)

Thanks everyone!

I'll have my mechanic give those a try and if that doesn't work I'll send it back. I don't love how often this needs to be maintained nor pulling the post out every couple weeks to lube it, maybe just a lube before each ride could avoid doing that. The 200mm is slammed and just fits my xxl Smash, don't like the idea of pulling all that post out often. 

-Nolan


----------



## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Mine's leaking air again. This is after it went back for warranty last year about this time.

I may try new seals, but if that doesn't do it, I'll have to go to a different dropper.


The V1 on my son's bike has been leak-free for years now.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I've had a brake failure after a few rounds of cleaning contamination out of the brake chamber. My guess is that the contamination is actually seeping hydraulic oil out of the brake assembly. I can't prove that, but the contamination feels more like oil than grease. The brake just got weaker and weaker until it couldn't hold my weight (even after cleaning AND multiple resets). I purchased a new brake assembly and it is a lot better. The new brake assembly seems to have a different bladder material. I think there has been some changes in the design.....time will tell.


----------



## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

Glad I found this form. Really need to vent. I just had 3 9.8 droppers die on me within a week. I sent the first one in and haven't heard anything. For my second one I tried to fix it myself. I just spent about 4 hours rebuilding it over and over and no luck. Now the air leaks out of the bottom of the dropper. Fully frustrated. Going to have to dig up a static post and research which dropper to by next. 

Just to confirm things already posted. Dropper sucks in dusty and wet conditions. Rode CO for a week and had to apply lube every day. By the end of the ride the dropper was crawling. Came back home to wet conditions. Same damn' thing. Asked support and they told me to re-lube. Didn't help. Gonna send all the droppers in for fixing then put them on the market. I've had enough.


----------



## arashi (Jan 15, 2009)

woodyak said:


> Glad I found this form. Really need to vent. I just had 3 9.8 droppers die on me within a week. I sent the first one in and haven't heard anything. For my second one I tried to fix it myself. I just spent about 4 hours rebuilding it over and over and no luck. Now the air leaks out of the bottom of the dropper. Fully frustrated. Going to have to dig up a static post and research which dropper to by next.
> 
> Just to confirm things already posted. Dropper sucks in dusty and wet conditions. Rode CO for a week and had to apply lube every day. By the end of the ride the dropper was crawling. Came back home to wet conditions. Same damn' thing. Asked support and they told me to re-lube. Didn't help. Gonna send all the droppers in for fixing then put them on the market. I've had enough.


OneUp dropper would be my recommendation. The price is reasonable, you can shim it if you need to, it comes with a 2yr warranty, when it's time to rebuild it the cartridge is $80 which is cheaper than rebuilding a Fox Transfer or any other hydrolic post for that matter and it comes in 150mm or 170mm which again you can shim down lower if you need to.


----------



## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

arashi said:


> OneUp dropper would be my recommendation. The price is reasonable, you can shim it if you need to, it comes with a 2yr warranty, when it's time to rebuild it the cartridge is $80 which is cheaper than rebuilding a Fox Transfer or any other hydrolic post for that matter and it comes in 150mm or 170mm which again you can shim down lower if you need to.


AFAIK, the cartridge for an X-fusion Manic is $25.


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

woodyak said:


> Glad I found this form. Really need to vent. I just had 3 9.8 droppers die on me within a week. I sent the first one in and haven't heard anything. For my second one I tried to fix it myself. I just spent about 4 hours rebuilding it over and over and no luck. Now the air leaks out of the bottom of the dropper. Fully frustrated. Going to have to dig up a static post and research which dropper to by next.
> 
> Just to confirm things already posted. Dropper sucks in dusty and wet conditions. Rode CO for a week and had to apply lube every day. By the end of the ride the dropper was crawling. Came back home to wet conditions. Same damn' thing. Asked support and they told me to re-lube. Didn't help. Gonna send all the droppers in for fixing then put them on the market. I've had enough.


Bike Yoke Revive. Rock solid in all conditions. I have a 185 and I've done absolutely nothing to it other than install and ride. 6 months Flawless. And we've had tons of rain in the Northeast this summer.


----------



## arashi (Jan 15, 2009)

Curveball said:


> AFAIK, the cartridge for an X-fusion Manic is $25.


Wow, that's a great price! As long as it fits in the frame you're using and provides you with the drop you want then I'd say you're all set! For me I prefer the fact you can shim a OneUp to any size you want from 170mm to 163mm to 161mm to blah blah blah lol! The X-Fusion is only available in 125 and 150 drop from what I can tell and you can shim it so if the 150mm drop doesn't fit you have to go all the down to a 125mm dropper. They are the same price to start though so you're in $200 for either the OneUp or the X-Fusion.


----------



## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

dodger said:


> I wish I could tell you. There's nothing obvious on visual inspection. In my case I would need to reset the brake and it would hold fine for a little bit but then once it sat overnight (same temp, elevation, etc), it would slip. My guess is air inside the brake. Keep in mind this is a sealed hydraulic brake.


I had an issue with my post slipping at full height and popping up a few cm after dropping it. I contacted 9point8 and they suggested some things that I had already done plus other things with the end result being a new brake assembly being sent out along with the "tool" to hold the brake. The old brake had a few bubbles in it when I took it out but I can't see those bubbles any more. The new brake holds fine.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

i have 2, 200mm Fall lines, one on each bike. they can be persnickety in wet weather and do require more attention to decontaminating the stanchion than others but i'm otherwise tickled with them. 

i have had the first one apart twice for relubing but i can no longer twist the nut off with a strap wrench as i've normally done. and i can't get the second one off for the life of me. i've even wrapped the rubber strap wrench around it, then used vise grips around the thick rubber to apply maximum grip and torque to no avail. 

when all else fails, how the hell can you get this thing apart? it seems a crazy thing to send it back just for this. 

(on a side note, i've found the best way to keep it running smoothly is to clean it first with a clean dry rag, then apply a quick hit of Maxima SC1. works very well. i just discovered the SC1 and it's fantastic stuff for the suspension in particular)


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

Bought my Fall Line V1 3 years ago this month. In those 3 years: 2 top seal greases + 1 rebuild (last winter) with the V2 kit.

Great post and completely reliable for me. Cable tension is typically the answer to any issue I had.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

cunningstunts said:


> i have 2, 200mm Fall lines, one on each bike. they can be persnickety in wet weather and do require more attention to decontaminating the stanchion than others but i'm otherwise tickled with them.
> 
> i have had the first one apart twice for relubing but i can no longer twist the nut off with a strap wrench as i've normally done. and i can't get the second one off for the life of me. i've even wrapped the rubber strap wrench around it, then used vise grips around the thick rubber to apply maximum grip and torque to no avail.
> 
> ...


clamp it by the nut in a bike stand and spin it off using the frame as lever...


----------



## monts (May 24, 2011)

Only possible way I could get mine off was to put lower section of seatpost in vise grip (wrapped in rubber), then take another smaller piece of rubber and wrap it around the nut, then use channel locks that fit nicely around the nut and turn. Yeah, it sucks.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Some texture or wrench flats on the nut would really help. Im hopefully that v3 will have this and better seals.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

alexbn921 said:


> Some texture or wrench flats on the nut would really help. Im hopefully that v3 will have this and better seals.


I am pretty happy with my 9.8 droppers. I'll buy another one next bike.

I'd like to see the following changes:

- wrench flats
- better grease seal
- bigger grease reservoir area
- maybe a grease port for easy refill without opening dropper?

I "solved" my frequent relubing schedule on the 9.8 by wiping down the stanchion to clean off any dirt then putting a light coat of Slickhoney on it when I wiped down my chain and the seals on my fork and shock. I can't even remember the last time I had to open up a 9.8 since I started adding that to my routine post-ride maintenance.

The new air seal support ring has been great. No air leaks and no brake problems. :thumbsup:


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I'm still happy with all 5 of my 9point8s. The one that I got in spring 2017 leaked air but the seal kit fixed that. No other real problems. I need to occassionally clean and lube the stantion and seal but not more often than seems reasonable. I'm lucky to live in an area that's not usually muddy or dusty.


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Installed my post last weekend and was stoked with the performance. This weekend on my second ride on it, it is slipping. It does not hold at all, just pogos. I uninstalled it, new cable, new hosing, made sure I was at 50%, made sure some slack in cable, but it will NOT hold.

When I took it apart I noticed that there was some type of oil on Quick Connect that smelled like lighter fluid or something strong like that. The "brake" engages if I unscrew the Quick Connect from the post a few turns. But as soon as I hand tighten it, it moves freely.

Any ideas what else I should try?? Already send customer service an email, just waiting for them respond. It sucks to spend $300 on a bike part that worked ONCE.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Did you try the brake reset? Pull the lever and hold for 10 sec.

_MK


----------



## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

MK_ said:


> Did you try the brake reset? Pull the lever and hold for 10 sec.
> 
> _MK


That was the first thing I tried. Have probably tried to reset at least 20 times. I have adjusted pressure up and down as well resetting at different pressure. Nothing has helped.

I store my bikes vertically in a hot garage in Florida. Not sure if that would help diagnose my issue.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

GatorXman said:


> Installed my post last weekend and was stoked with the performance. This weekend on my second ride on it, it is slipping. It does not hold at all, just pogos. I uninstalled it, new cable, new hosing, made sure I was at 50%, made sure some slack in cable, but it will NOT hold.
> 
> When I took it apart I noticed that there was some type of oil on Quick Connect that smelled like lighter fluid or something strong like that. The "brake" engages if I unscrew the Quick Connect from the post a few turns. But as soon as I hand tighten it, it moves freely.
> 
> Any ideas what else I should try?? Already send customer service an email, just waiting for them respond. It sucks to spend $300 on a bike part that worked ONCE.


I'm running the same problem on my 2 year old post. I'm going to pump it up 100 psi and dunk it in some water to see if I have an air leak. If there isn't one then I'm going to assume there's some slippery stuff on the walls where the brake sits.

My initial assumption is because I contaminated the brakes using a shock pump that has seen some suspension oil get pushed back up into the system.... time for a tear down!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Junersun said:


> I'm running the same problem on my 2 year old post. I'm going to pump it up 100 psi and dunk it in some water to see if I have an air leak. If there isn't one then I'm going to assume there's some slippery stuff on the walls where the brake sits.
> 
> My initial assumption is because I contaminated the brakes using a shock pump that has seen some suspension oil get pushed back up into the system.... time for a tear down!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok dunked it in water with 100 psi, no leaks. I have the v2 collar. Time to dive in.

I took the Schrader valve off so the post could slide easily. Took two circ clips off from the bottom and pop off comes the brake assembly. What do I find? Old gunky grease smeared on the brake assembly! This is by no means 9point8 fault. I don't know how that much grease made its way in there but it looked like old grease. Couple shots of maxima cleaner and an alcohol wipe down of the brake assembly and boom back in working condition again! 30 psi in the chamber is almost scary sounding when I pull the trigger.

I've had this post for 2 years now and I can only comment great things about it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Question for people with the 150 dropper. When I was taking the brake assembly out of the upper stanchion I found a 4 mm spacer that was installed










So if I take that out will my post extend to 154?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

pretty sure that's a bottom out bumper. I would leave it in.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

alexbn921 said:


> pretty sure that's a bottom out bumper. I would leave it in.


Yes. Bad idea. Don't remove that it isn't a spacer it's a bottom out bumper.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

bikeguy0 said:


> Yes. Bad idea. Don't remove that it isn't a spacer it's a bottom out bumper.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks. Just making sure I reassembled it back correctly, does the two black spacers in that picture go inside the upper stanchion before the circ clip prevents them from falling through?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## getvert (May 5, 2010)

I just saw that 9point8 has released their new Fall Line R dropper post, with a totally redesigned collar nut. I wonder if they had to redesign the Fall Line to finally fix the air leak issue and pain-in-the-ass collar nut once and for all?

View attachment 1231981


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Cool. I need a dropper and was about to order another 9.8.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

getvert said:


> I just saw that 9point8 has released their new Fall Line R dropper post, with a totally redesigned collar nut. I wonder if they had to redesign the Fall Line to finally fix the air leak issue and pain-in-the-ass collar nut once and for all?
> 
> View attachment 1231981


Can't really be a 'wonder', rather an imperative if they were gonna come out on the other side kicking.
Hope it works out!


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

i have 2 fall line posts. i really hope that this collar is retrofittable to the older posts. i can no longer remove mine with strap wrenches or any effort.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

cunningstunts said:


> i have 2 fall line posts. i really hope that this collar is retrofittable to the older posts. i can no longer remove mine with strap wrenches or any effort.


Doesn't look compatible as it threads over the outside of the post.


----------



## bikeguy0 (Aug 5, 2007)

I have two fall lines I need to sell. 125 drop 31.8 size if anyone is interested PM me. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

CWnSWCO said:


> I feel your pain brother.
> I about lost my mind trying to get those keys in. By the time I finally did, they were all mangled that it was a complete lost cause. Ended up sending the thing to Canada for factory service.
> Those keys !!!!!


This is an absolute nightmare. The fact that they would send the ssr warranty kit without the key install tool and make you use some ****ing rubber bands is infuriating


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

the_joe said:


> This is an absolute nightmare. The fact that they would send the ssr warranty kit without the key install tool and make you use some ****ing rubber bands is infuriating


Really? 
Took me like 5 minutes. I didn't see it as a big deal. Sorry to hear it was a problem.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

reamer41 said:


> Really?
> Took me like 5 minutes. I didn't see it as a big deal. Sorry to hear it was a problem.


Ditto. Rubber band and patience got it done in one shot.

To eliminate the patience part though I have gotten myself the guide now. Got some air loss in mine, time for another seal change followed by another year of flawless use!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

reamer41 said:


> Really?
> Took me like 5 minutes. I didn't see it as a big deal. Sorry to hear it was a problem.


I was pretty pissed when i wrote that :lol: :lol: :lol:

I am pretty mechanically inclined but i couldnt get both parts of all 3 keys to go in at the same time. The top halves kept popping off and I eventually ruined 2 of the tiny springs. Whoopsy-doodle


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Mine where a complete and total pain in the ass. I rebuild my fit4 dampers and have rebuilt transmissions on civics. For some reason they just didn't want to go home.


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Just for the record, i spoke with them today and told them I ****ed up the springs. They are going to get me the new springs and I will be good to go. The issues i have had with this post have been very minor and it is helpful to have responses from their support team within 24 hours, every time. I have never gotten that level of service from the big manufacturers.


----------



## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

the_joe said:


> This is an absolute nightmare. The fact that they would send the ssr warranty kit without the key install tool and make you use some ****ing rubber bands is infuriating


I tried to rebuild mine after yet another air leak and ran into the same problem. I became so mad that I gave away the post and bought an X-fusion Manic.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

Is everyone’s leak coming from the red seal between the stanchion and the lowers? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

Junersun said:


> Is everyone's leak coming from the red seal between the stanchion and the lowers?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes and no. That's the most likely the place you will see the air escape but that's really just a wiper.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

tuckerjt07 said:


> Yes and no. That's the most likely the place you will see the air escape but that's really just a wiper.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That's the impression I was under as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

Junersun said:


> Is everyone's leak coming from the red seal between the stanchion and the lowers?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes... from what I can tell, that is where the air bubbles will escape when the internal main quad ring AKA X-ring seal is leaking.


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Sorry all you guys have had such trouble, have had mine now for going on 3 years and all I've ever done is pull the collar, clean out any old grease and add new grease, that's it. Post still has virtually no play in it at all, worth every penny I paid for it at full retail.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

the_joe said:


> Yes... from what I can tell, that is where the air bubbles will escape when the internal main quad ring AKA X-ring seal is leaking.


Gotcha. Well knock on wood I haven't had any problems and I've gone through a seal change too. About to do another

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

LyNx said:


> Sorry all you guys have had such trouble, have had mine now for going on 3 years and all I've ever done is pull the collar, clean out any old grease and add new grease, that's it. Post still has virtually no play in it at all, worth every penny I paid for it at full retail.


From what i understand, it was only one batch of the quad rings that was affected. Not all the original fall line posts had the issue. Mine had a very slow leak, would loose peessure over a month or so. I asked them about sending mine in to have the seals replaced (and paying for it) but they ended up sending me the seal kit for no charge after I described the issue i was having.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

Another happy Fall Line owner here. Mine has worked for 2.5 years and I only lubricated it once. Basically 2 years without doing anything, just cleaning externally, inflated once. v1 nut. The post is not exactly "silky smooth" and the travel was a bit uneven from the beginning, but it lasted for so long without degradation.

I'm returning One Up and need another post. Raceface Turbine is on sale now for $152. Has pretty bad reviews, but looks essentially the v1 Fall Line. I'll hate not to have the 4-bolt head. But if it's set once and forget, I can tolerate it. Any experience with it?

Other options are Fall Line R, Revive or default to the original Fall Line.

Revive is tempting and for the price comes with remote/cable (that I don't need). But I store bikes vertically hanging by the front wheel. Not sure if I'll have to to reset it every time.

Fall Line R is expensive but has its merits. It's lighter and has improved collar nut. But I'm afraid of the weight cutting. Would the head still be as solid and creak-free as the old one? Would it be as tolerant to the clamp torque as the old one?

Thank you.


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

I dont have direct experience with it, but the raceface post with the 9point8 liscensed design got pretty much universal bad reviews because it was not manufactured as precisely as the 9point8 posts. Raceface has since abandoned that design and the latest post has different internals. 

If i had to buy another dropper today i would get either the Bikeyoke or the 9point8.


----------



## jduffett (Jun 16, 2006)

KVV said:


> Fall Line R is expensive but has its merits. It's lighter and has improved collar nut. But I'm afraid of the weight cutting. Would the head still be as solid and creak-free as the old one? Would it be as tolerant to the clamp torque as the old one?


Head design is functionally the same between Fall Line and Fall Line R, just slightly smaller to suit the new upper tube (reduced pitch on the bolts; reduced pivot radius). The upper tube on FLR is one-piece, which eliminates a couple of possible failure modes, and saves weight without compromising strength. As far as clamp torque, are you talking about the head, or clamping in the frame?


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

the_joe said:


> I dont have direct experience with it, but the raceface post with the 9point8 liscensed design got pretty much universal bad reviews because it was not manufactured as precisely as the 9point8 posts. Raceface has since abandoned that design and the latest post has different internals.
> 
> If i had to buy another dropper today i would get either the Bikeyoke or the 9point8.


I asked about Revive separately: https://forums.mtbr.com/components/bike-yoke-revive-when-storing-bike-vertical-position-1096901.html

Looks like 9.8 is the way to.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

jduffett said:


> Head design is functionally the same between Fall Line and Fall Line R, just slightly smaller to suit the new upper tube (reduced pitch on the bolts; reduced pivot radius). The upper tube on FLR is one-piece, which eliminates a couple of possible failure modes, and saves weight without compromising strength. As far as clamp torque, are you talking about the head, or clamping in the frame?


Reduced pivot radius is slightly worrying, but I'm not a heavy dude.

By clamp torque I meant clamping in the frame. I found One Up to be unusually sensitive to that. My 9.8, Lev and Transfer didn't have this problem. I hope 9.8 reduced material in a right place, without compromising wall stiffness.


----------



## jduffett (Jun 16, 2006)

KVV said:


> By clamp torque I meant clamping in the frame. I found One Up to be unusually sensitive to that. My 9.8, Lev and Transfer didn't have this problem. I hope 9.8 reduced material in a right place, without compromising wall stiffness.


Often this is as much to do with internal running clearances, and the internal layout (where the bushings and keys are located), as it does with wall thickness - for example if you can run a post at maximum insertion, the lower bushing and keys never pass through the clamp collar, so any constriction there is insignificant. The Fall Line R does have material removed from the wall of the lower, so in an absolute sense, yes it would be less tolerant than Fall Line, all else equal. Our testing has not shown this to be an issue.


----------



## KVV (May 22, 2017)

jduffett said:


> Often this is as much to do with internal running clearances, and the internal layout (where the bushings and keys are located), as it does with wall thickness - for example if you can run a post at maximum insertion, the lower bushing and keys never pass through the clamp collar, so any constriction there is insignificant. The Fall Line R does have material removed from the wall of the lower, so in an absolute sense, yes it would be less tolerant than Fall Line, all else equal. Our testing has not shown this to be an issue.


Thank you. Appreciate the response. In my case, it'll be 5-7mm from the full insertion. One Up was fully inserted, but of course its internal design is different.


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

Quick question... during a rebuild, I didn't use a thick enough inner tube when clamping pliers around the small shaft of the brake unit. I ended up marring the surface a bit near the dimples. From my understanding of the brake design, this is only cosmetic and won't affect performance, correct? My dropper is working as expected but I want to make sure I won't have problems down the road.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

Poopshute said:


> Quick question... during a rebuild, I didn't use a thick enough inner tube when clamping pliers around the small shaft of the brake unit. I ended up marring the surface a bit near the dimples. From my understanding of the brake design, this is only cosmetic and won't affect performance, correct? My dropper is working as expected but I want to make sure I won't have problems down the road.


The brake is internal, on the ID of the post. The keys are on the external surface. You're all good with regard to the brake.


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

dodger said:


> The brake is internal, on the ID of the post. The keys are on the external surface. You're all good with regard to the brake.


Sweet. 9point8 Support confirmed this as well (they just got back to me). Thanks!


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

What’s a good alternative to the proprietary p10L grease?


----------



## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

rhynohead said:


> What's a good alternative to the proprietary p10L grease?


Mayo


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

rhynohead said:


> What's a good alternative to the proprietary p10L grease?


Slick honey is OK, but not as tacky as the p10L


----------



## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

Anyone else have issues with getting the nut off the post for a relube? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

tuckerjt07 said:


> Anyone else have issues with getting the nut off the post for a relube?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I did initially. But kept trying using the bike stand method in their video. I used a rubber jar gripper thing to get enough grip on the lower seatpost. You gotta make sure you secure the nut correctly in the stand.

Thanks for the grease recommendations, think I'll try the mayo


----------



## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

rhynohead said:


> I did initially. But kept trying using the bike stand method in their video. I used a rubber jar gripper thing to get enough grip on the lower seatpost. You gotta make sure you secure the nut correctly in the stand.
> 
> Thanks for the grease recommendations, think I'll try the mayo


Mine just rides up on my Feedback and won't hold.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

tuckerjt07 said:


> Anyone else have issues with getting the nut off the post for a relube?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes the only thing that works well for me is a small strap wrench like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029434

Trying to grip it with a bike stand clamp as in their instructions didnt work very well and using an adjustable pliers with a cut up inner tube just resulted in a lot of scratches.

I don't understand why there arent wrench flats on it, but then again i am not an engineer


----------



## tuckerjt07 (Nov 24, 2016)

the_joe said:


> Yes the only thing that works well for me is a small strap wrench like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029434
> 
> Trying to grip it with a bike stand clamp as in their instructions didnt work very well and using an adjustable pliers with a cut up inner tube just resulted in a lot of scratches.
> 
> I don't understand why there arent wrench flats on it, bun then again i am not an engineer


Thanks, I may just have to send it in. I think I've tried all three of the suggestions, including a vice and inner tube, with no luck.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

the_joe said:


> Yes the only thing that works well for me is a small strap wrench like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029434
> 
> Trying to grip it with a bike stand clamp as in their instructions didnt work very well and using an adjustable pliers with a cut up inner tube just resulted in a lot of scratches.
> 
> I don't understand why there arent wrench flats on it, bun then again i am not an engineer


I had to keep repositioning it in my parktool stand and it finally gripped it correctly, but it was frustrating and also tried the adjustable pliers with an inner tube, but you need to apply a good amount of force which would cause marring so I wouldn't recommend that method.

The strap wrench is probably the best idea if the stand isn't working


----------



## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

tuckerjt07 said:


> Thanks, I may just have to send it in. I think I've tried all three of the suggestions, including a vice and inner tube, with no luck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


 I would also try cleaning the nut really well with rubbing alcohol to improve the grip a bit. The nut is not terribly tight in there, just a PITA to get any grip.


----------



## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

I've owned my 200 since they first became available so 2.5 years now. Worked with 9.8 thru the hiccups and made good use of their 2 yr warranty. Big fan of this post and the latest air fix with crushable SSR and their X ring has lasted me 6 months. But as with all wear items the X ring finally needed replacement. Turns out an off the shelf X ring will only address the leakage for a few weeks before degrading. 9.8 will only sell their proprietary compound X ring as part of the $53 kit. They offered to throw in extras but I refuse to pay $53 plus $14 for a kit that includes a bunch of static seals that never go bad and that I already have anyway thru multiple warranty claims.

They had me by the balls all this time because they were the only 200 game in town but OneUp just released a 210 post that will fit my frame. I totally understand kit upselling but they took it to a gouging level. I'd rather pay more for a new post just as a matter of principle. So if you're listening 9.8: Your unfriendly customer service policy and greed is going to damage your brand.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

dodger said:


> I've owned my 200 since they first became available so 2.5 years now. Worked with 9.8 thru the hiccups and made good use of their 2 yr warranty. Big fan of this post and the latest air fix with crushable SSR and their X ring has lasted me 6 months. But as with all wear items the X ring finally needed replacement. Turns out an off the shelf X ring will only address the leakage for a few weeks before degrading. 9.8 will only sell their proprietary compound X ring as part of the $53 kit. They offered to throw in extras but I refuse to pay $53 plus $14 for a kit that includes a bunch of static seals that never go bad and that I already have anyway thru multiple warranty claims.
> 
> They had me by the balls all this time because they were the only 200 game in town but OneUp just released a 210 post that will fit my frame. I totally understand kit upselling but they took it to a gouging level. I'd rather pay more for a new post just as a matter of principle. So if you're listening 9.8: Your unfriendly customer service policy and greed is going to damage your brand.


this is disconcerting. i have 2, 200mm fall lines. one leaked and they sent me the kit for free, and i paid full pop for the second one, plus tools. hundred bucks, their stuff is very premium priced. servicing these is not a cake walk either, even with the key assembly tool it's a real challenge i found.

i do know that i'm not keen incurring much more maintenance costs that's for sure. they should be supporting customers with just the parts they need as they need them, at the lowest reasonable price. as a Canadian, i know all too well that the lowest reasonable price is bloody expensive as hell. i love this country but low wages, high taxes and very high costs and low availability on speciality products is a ****ing *****.


----------



## chize (Jun 13, 2011)

Anyone know if the offset head can be installed backwards (to offset the saddle towards the front of the bike)?


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

Did 9point8 change the wiper seal on the Fall Line posts? I was just on their website and noticed that the photos on the main seatpost product page show a blue wiper seal instead of the old red one.

Does anyone know if this is just a cosmetic change or did they improve the seal?


----------



## wvtrailbiker (Jan 24, 2008)

I called about the one i ordered they said they said its the same just a different supplier that only had blue instead of red. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

wvtrailbiker said:


> I called about the one i ordered they said they said its the same just a different supplier that only had blue instead of red.


That is disappointing. I was hoping that they had improved the seal.


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

AOK said:


> That is disappointing. I was hoping that they had improved the seal.


Gladly would take a blue seal as I'm a Yeti owner. Did the full v2 nut swap with red wiper seal not too long ago. Might need to see if they can sell the blue seal separately.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Seal looks to be of higher quality without the mold slag of the red one. I really wish it was an sfk seal


----------



## romphaia (Sep 7, 2014)

Hi all
I seem to have the opposite problemthan most, my post never slipped but now instead it's sticking, doesn't slide freely neither up or down. Pressure is ok, the sliding surfaces are clean, it really feels like the brake doesn't unlock fully. The remote is set up properly (no free play, when pushing the lever it doesn't reach the mechanical stop)
I rebuilt the post in winter, I wonder if the heat of these last few days here is expanding the oil so much? Any way to reset it?

(I verified that when pushing the lever, it starts to unlock thet brake quite late, at about 3/4 of the stroke)


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

romphaia said:


> Hi all
> I seem to have the opposite problemthan most, my post never slipped but now instead it's sticking, doesn't slide freely neither up or down. Pressure is ok, the sliding surfaces are clean, it really feels like the brake doesn't unlock fully. The remote is set up properly (no free play, when pushing the lever it doesn't reach the mechanical stop)
> I rebuilt the post in winter, I wonder if the heat of these last few days here is expanding the oil so much? Any way to reset it?
> 
> (I verified that when pushing the lever, it starts to unlock thet brake quite late, at about 3/4 of the stroke)


A couple questions:

1.) Did you try resetting the brake? It involves pushing the lever fully and holding it for a set number of seconds.

2.) When you say you rebuilt the post... did this include a full tear down? What type of grease did you use? The 9point8 proprietary stuff? I've noticed that their grease gets more slick as it heats up. More viscous when it is cold. My dropper will move quicker up and down when it is hot.


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

romphaia said:


> Hi all
> I seem to have the opposite problemthan most, my post never slipped but now instead it's sticking, doesn't slide freely neither up or down. Pressure is ok, the sliding surfaces are clean, it really feels like the brake doesn't unlock fully. The remote is set up properly (no free play, when pushing the lever it doesn't reach the mechanical stop)
> I rebuilt the post in winter, I wonder if the heat of these last few days here is expanding the oil so much? Any way to reset it?
> 
> (I verified that when pushing the lever, it starts to unlock thet brake quite late, at about 3/4 of the stroke)


Have you lived the seal recently? Sounds like that may be the issue. Try a light dab of grease on the shaft above the seal. If that partially improves the post movement I would say you need to lube the seal.


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

reamer41 said:


> Have you lived the seal recently? Sounds like that may be the issue. Try a light dab of grease on the shaft above the seal. If that partially improves the post movement I would say you need to lube the seal.


Also, I will say that compared to the V1 nut... the new V2 nut and seal system keeps the shaft moving much more smoothly than previously. I think it does a better job of keeping the foam ring in place.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anyone have the Fall Line R and can report back on reliability so far? 

Wishing the Revive or OneUp offered offset heads, but its down to 9.8 now.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Have had it since the time of the review, so far so good, have the 100mm drop.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

So is it safe to say that the Fall Line R has remedied many of the issues the V1 and V2 had?


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

I’ve had the FL with the v2 seals and that was fine as well, no crazy lengths though, 150mm drop


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

My two V2 Falllines continue to be trouble free. I do hope somebody else comes up with an offset head dropper just so we have a second option, but I can't complain about my 9.8's at all.


----------



## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

I've always struggled to remove the collar nut from my v2 Fall Line, and it's gotten worse with age. The guidance to clamp it with bike stand jaws are ineffective. I've even broken a few strap wrenches and many blood vessels in my hand.

I had a hose clamp lying around, which got me thinking. I wrapped some mastic tape around the nut and tightened the clamp over it. At that point you can grab the band of the clamp with vice grips and crank on it without fear of damaging anything. I guess you could use a piece of tube instead of mastic tape, but it's nice having something adhesive backed.


----------



## cunningstunts (Sep 1, 2011)

that's brilliant and game changing advice. why didn't i think about it? why has no one else, why hasn't 9.8? it's anxiety producing every time i go to take these apart (and i have 2 of them!) and it's greatly simplified now, thanks a tonne.


----------



## A. Rider (Jul 25, 2017)

mevnet said:


> Have had it since the time of the review, so far so good, have the 100mm drop.


I've had my 150mm Fall Line R since about February. It has worked reliably since I've owned it, but I do need to reset the brake before almost every ride. It's so quick and simple to do that it's not a big deal, but it is very sensitive to temperature changes.

I did my first regrease ever of the collar nut just yesterday. It is also easy to do, but did you notice if yours is also missing a foam ring?

There is no foam ring in my Fall Line R collar nut, and I wonder if this is new to this version, or if they sent mine without one.

I used SRAM Butter, and it's working very smoothly. Can't say yet how it will work longer term though.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

New one does not use the foam ring. You should try to get their grease, it sticks to to stanchions longer


----------



## A. Rider (Jul 25, 2017)

mevnet said:


> New one does not use the foam ring. You should try to get their grease, it sticks to to stanchions longer


Ok, thanks for both of those bits of information.


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

When the Fall Line R post was first introduced, it was claimed to be "cutable" or "trimable" for weight reduction. In my case, I'm right on the cusp between the 275/75 and the 310/100 as far as minimum insertion length (my current seatpost has the seat rails at 193mm above the top of my seattube/seatpost clamp. I'd love to get the 310/100 post and trim a bit off the bottom of the tube. Although the 10-20g that I'd save is miniscule. Still, I'd love to have it "minimum weight possible".


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

Porch said:


> I also bought a couple of x-rings (-214) and a seal head o-ring (32mm x 2mm) from theoringstore.com. I bought 10 o-rings and 4 x-rings for a total of $10/shipped.
> 
> At some point I'll go through and figure out the sizes of all the o-rings in this dropper. So far my bushings have never really developed any slop, so I don't see the point in spending $60+ on the 9point8 rebuild kit.


definitely 214 x ring - another poster mentioned using a 213? the difference is slight but id guess its important. thanks!


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

I've used the bike stand method to remove the caps before but decided to make a proper tool. 10mm delrin plate, squared and bored to 37.9mm (the cap is 38) then divided and clamped with 2 Alu handles. Works very well indeed!


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I've stopped opening up my 9.8 to renew the grease inside. At the end of every ride I wipe down the stanchion apply a small amount of Slick Honey. Works great and I haven't had to open the dropper in more than a year. No air leaks or any other issues.

FWIW - I use a Mudhugger rear fender on my winter bike to keep the 9.8 clean.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

My 9Point8 dropper that came used with my Trek Remedy worked pretty well for the first few months, but then started losing air. I ordered up some o-rings and x-rings and confidently "rebuilt" it with new rings and clean grease (I used Manitou Prep-M grease). Much to my dismay, the post only held air for about a month or two before needing pumped every few days at first, but eventually needing it every ride. Last ride, it didn't even hold air for the whole 2 hour ride.

I pulled it apart again this afternoon and everything appeared well greased with a little bit of "dirt" contamination - but not terrible. I decided to take the brake out and inspect, as I was getting occasional slips. The brake and cylinder were oily, so that's a problem, but more importantly, I found this o-ring destroyed. AFAICT, this o-ring is the first seal to hold air pressure. With this destroyed, the x-ring on the seal head was having to do all the work which must have contributed to the post's quick loss of air holding ability. Now to track down a 1x18mm o-ring.

Anyone else encountered this failed o-ring and if so, did replacing it solve your air loss woes?









AM.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The rebuild kit should have every o ring you need. All my air leaks are from the dynamic x ring at the top.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

They really need to improve their distribution system in the U.S. Their website says they're closed until Jan 7, so I'm looking at about a month before I could get a repair kit from them. In the meantime, I'll have to order a batch of o-rings online from Amazon so I can put my post back together.

AM.


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Attacking Mid said:


> My 9Point8 dropper that came used with my Trek Remedy worked pretty well for the first few months, but then started losing air. I ordered up some o-rings and x-rings and confidently "rebuilt" it with new rings and clean grease (I used Manitou Prep-M grease). Much to my dismay, the post only held air for about a month or two before needing pumped every few days at first, but eventually needing it every ride. Last ride, it didn't even hold air for the whole 2 hour ride.
> 
> I pulled it apart again this afternoon and everything appeared well greased with a little bit of "dirt" contamination - but not terrible. I decided to take the brake out and inspect, as I was getting occasional slips. The brake and cylinder were oily, so that's a problem, but more importantly, I found this o-ring destroyed. AFAICT, this o-ring is the first seal to hold air pressure. With this destroyed, the x-ring on the seal head was having to do all the work which must have contributed to the post's quick loss of air holding ability. Now to track down a 1x18mm o-ring.
> 
> ...


Is this the o-ring you need? I have 1 and will send it to you if you PM me your address.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

alexbn921 said:


> Is this the o-ring you need? I have 1 and will send it to you if you PM me your address.
> 
> View attachment 1300657


Thank you so much for the offer, but the one I need is on the brake assy. "air cushion". I ordered a pack of 20 18x1mm which I think will work. So.... if you need one for the air cushion, you can ask ME and I'll send one to YOU! Thanks again!

AM.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

Going for a ride this afternoon and I don't yet have an 18x1mm o-ring, so I carefully re-installed the torn o-ring. Everything was cleaned up and re-greased. This time I tried Noleen SF3 grease rather than M-prep. I installed a new 214 X-ring and everything is working great for now. Post seems smoother than ever, so either the SF3 grease is working better, or perhaps that damaged o-ring was causing the post to have excessive drag.

In looking closer at how the post works, I don't think that o-ring has anything to do with holding pneumatic pressure. The plastic part on which it mounts is referred to as an "air cushion". I think all it does it slow the post down as it gets near the top to provide a smooth "topping out". Former users of Command Posts can appreciate that feature!

AM.


----------



## ccm (Jan 14, 2004)

I received a urethane Air Cushion with my rebuild kit to replace a metal cushion; however, I can't find a video or schematic showing where the air cushion is located


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

ccm said:


> I received a urethane Air Cushion with my rebuild kit to replace a metal cushion; however, I can't find a video or schematic showing where the air cushion is located


I know this response is probably too late, but the picture I posted in post #1006 above shows a picture of the air cushion with the damaged o-ring lying beside it.

After putting mine back together in December, it has been losing air such that it needs pumped up most every ride. I added a shrader valve angled extension to make it easy to add air without having to remove the seat, so that has kept me going until now.

Yesterday, my cable broke at the lever, so it's time to take it back out and take it apart again. I ordered some Viton quad rings to try in place of the generic buna-n quad rings I ordered previously. The Viton's are supposed to be a better fit for this type of application, so we'll see. It will also give me a chance to replace that torn air cushion o-ring.

I like this post when it holds air, but still struggling to get it sealed up. Hope this next effort is successful.

AM.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

Attacking Mid said:


> I like this post when it holds air, but still struggling to get it sealed up. Hope this next effort is successful.
> 
> AM.


It could just be the o-ring on the schrader....simple hopefully.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

I really think it's the quad ring leaking. After I replaced it in December, it held pressure for maybe 2-3 weeks, but then started requiring frequent pumps. It was then that I added the angled extension. I'm hoping the Viton quad ring helps.

AM.


----------



## romphaia (Sep 7, 2014)

Just finished rebuilding my dropper. The brake stopped working almost completely, oil leaking out of the bottom through the inner shaft, so I also had to totally disassemble and rebuild the brake unit, including new seals.
Also had to machine a tool to disassemble the brake, and a siringe adapter for a perfect bleed.







.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

romphaia said:


> Just finished rebuilding my dropper. The brake stopped working almost completely, oil leaking out of the bottom through the inner shaft, so I also had to totally disassemble and rebuild the brake unit, including new seals.
> Also had to machine a tool to disassemble the brake, and a siringe adapter for a perfect bleed.
> View attachment 1327143
> 
> ...


Neato! Wish you have picture by picture process on that! How difficult was it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

Nice! I hadn't really looked closely at the brake assy to see how it comes apart. Mine was oily and slipping last year, but after cleaning it up, it has never slipped again. It was dry when I pulled it apart a few weeks ago.

My viton quad ring didn't work any better than the buna quad ring for holding air. But, I just took a screwdriver and re-expanded the crushable SSR in hopes to get some compression on the quad ring. If that helps, I may look at using something to replace the SSR that is more durable - perhaps a similarly shaped rubber piece that can maintain compression better? I'll update again soon.

AM.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

thats interesting. i have one of the 9point8 which has a v2 cap and the non relieved ssr and ive been having to regrease and air up ~ monthly. ive been trying to work out what seals what and i did wonder if there was some sort of pressure on the quad ring when screwing down as they seem particalr about the gap. will follow along your investigation and do my own rebuild meantime.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

If 9.8 wanted to make a Wintek cartridge retrofit kit for the Fall Line R, I'd be ok with it. I still want to like their product solely on the fact that they make a offset clamp (nobody else does), but after years of messing with Reverb and trying different seals to fix inherent flaws, I'm over all that fiddling. 

My Command Post (also offset) needs air once a month (seals are 5 years old), but other than that it's flawless.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I've got two 9.8s on the go for years now. Other than a bit of lubrication I don't spend any time maintaining them or even thinking about them. I'm also keen on the offset head for bikes with really steep STAs.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

Since expanding the SSR, my post has been holding air. It's only been on 3 rides, but it wouldn't even hold through a single ride before. Since the quad ring was almost new, I only re-greased the quad ring and expanded the SSR. This is literally a 10 minute job. Here's a picture of where I pried to expand the SSR:









By using a screwdriver nearly as wide as the slots, I pried on only the upper slots shown as red above.. By expanding each of these a bit, you can re-create the pressure applied by installing a new SSR. I'm sure the material will weaken with each re-expansion, so a more durable substitute would be desirable. Next time it starts leaking, I'll likely try something.

AM.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

vikb said:


> I've got two 9.8s on the go for years now. Other than a bit of lubrication I don't spend any time maintaining them or even thinking about them. I'm also keen on the offset head for bikes with really steep STAs.


I guess they're a bit hit-or-miss. I like the post when it's holding air, but the main issues they need to resolve (IMHO) are better air pressure retention and better parts/service distribution in the US. A rebuild kit is something like $55 or $60 and must be ordered from Canada. They should make a more basic rebuild kit with a quad ring, an SSR, a foil pack of grease, and a foam ring available for, like, $15 - $20 through a distributor in the US.

With simple, reliable, and cheaper competition from companies like OneUp, I'll find it hard to justify another 9.8 post when I'm done with this one.

Doesn't a setback post kind of negate the benefits of more upright seat tube angles? My Remedy 29er still has an old-school laid-back seat tube, so I definitely don't need a setback! I'm looking forward to getting a newer bike with a more upright tube.

AM.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

Attacking Mid said:


> Since expanding the SSR, my post has been holding air. It's only been on 3 rides, but it wouldn't even hold through a single ride before. Since the quad ring was almost new, I only re-greased the quad ring and expanded the SSR. This is literally a 10 minute job. Here's a picture of where I pried to expand the SSR:
> 
> View attachment 1332129
> 
> ...


i wonder if there is space for a small cross section o'ring at the closed end of the ssr (ie not the foam ring entrance) that could provide a wee bit of preload....it would of cousre add friction, but if it was a ~25mm ID o ring, not much...


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

So far, so good for me with my expanded SSR. My post hasn't needed air added at all since I did that. An o-ring might work, but I was thinking of something like a flat washer/shim to take up space left when the SSR inevitably crushes. Something like a washer cut from an inner tube or similar. I'd be a little concerned about an o-ring providing isolated pressure on the quad ring vs. the consistent pressure of something flat. The idea is to squeeze the quad ring just a bit.

AM.


----------



## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

good to hear - im about to swap a non relieved ssr for a solid one in a leaky post...so ill see how we go. 

the bottom of the ssr has some 'flat' i think and the foam ring is pushed in from the top? im trying to remember ! if that is correct, an o ring that is is lower than the ssr should provide unifrom pressure to the outer rad/edge of the x seal by pushing the foam ring 'cup' up against it...in saying that even a 1mm thick o ring would potentially take up quite a bit of space. you could tighten the seal nut less....

maybe a super thin flat washer that is non marking (nylon?) might be a better option just as you say. the proviso being that having the foam ring take up less volume doesnt negatively effect the retention of grease....

anyhoo, thanks for the info - ill cross that bridge if i come to it!


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

So, is the general consensus that 9Point8 have figured this out now? I'm really really wanting to pull the trigger on a Fall Line R but don't want to have to deal with something that requires constant attention.


----------



## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

BlownCivic said:


> So, is the general consensus that 9Point8 have figured this out now? I'm really really wanting to pull the trigger on a Fall Line R but don't want to have to deal with something that requires constant attention.


I dumped my RF dropper and moved on to a PNW dropper. Highly recommend looking at their offerings. On-the-trail tooless adjustable travel, up to 200mm travel options, sealed, worry free, air cartridges... yeah... wasn't a heard decision and they're priced well.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

BlownCivic said:


> So, is the general consensus that 9Point8 have figured this out now? I'm really really wanting to pull the trigger on a Fall Line R but don't want to have to deal with something that requires constant attention.


I've got two 9.8's in the fleet. No issues. I can't remember the last time I checked the air pressure even. I would not hesitate to buy one again. Particularly if I needed an offset head as that's hard to come by in a quality dropper.


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

On my second 9.8 for a hardtail build. Survives about a year of riding in PNW rain for me and servicing is a breeze. I have it down to about 30 min before it’s brand new again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

I have had nothing but great experience with 9point8. Simple to service overall. I did have one post that started to get a scratch in the stanchion and 9point8 replaced it under warranty.

Other than the great action of the dropper I really like the clamp. Having a separate tilt adjustment makes getting back to perfect setup a breeze if you need to pull the saddle.


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Sweet guys. Thanks. That makes it easy.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I live in the PNWet and haven't even bothered with an annual service of my winter bike's 9.8. I do run a Mudhugger rear fender which keeps 87.66% of the rear tire spray off my dropper seal. That could be the reason I'm getting away with being a slacker.


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

This all bodes well for me. I too live in the PNW, though my wet weather rides are not all that frequent!


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Hello

Could you please tell me what is the point of screwing that 'Brake Release Tool' ? 
I can unthread the Bottom Plug and without screwing in Breake Release Tool...

Thank you


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

ka81ua said:


> Hello
> 
> Could you please tell me what is the point of screwing that 'Brake Release Tool' ?
> I can unthread the Bottom Plug and without screwing in Breake Release Tool...
> ...


It releases the brake similar to pressing the on your lever. Then when endcap unscrewed it will pull the brake mast assembly out.

You can easily make this tool with bolt, washer nut. It will be the same size/thread pitch as the cable attachment sub assembly.

Look for a bolt that matches this:


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I wonder why does it exist this way? What ideas in this type of "piston stoping" ?
If someone doesn't know - to pull out tje rod with piston assy you need to pull the break.


P.s. Of courseI know about using simple bolt with nu. It's M7 by the way.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

ka81ua said:


> I wonder why does it exist this way? What ideas in this type of "piston stoping" ?
> If someone doesn't know - to pull out tje rod with piston assy you need to pull the break.
> 
> P.s. Of courseI know about using simple bolt with nu. It's M7 by the way.


Its a brake, opposite of you car. The brake hold your ass up in the air.

Without tension the brake is on. If you need the mast out for service or replacement you need to actuate (release) the brake so you can pull it out. Unless your Houdini (or its not holding), it ain't coming out without being actuated (released).

HTH.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

TraxFactory said:


> Its a brake, opposite of you car. The brake hold your ass up in the air.
> 
> Without tension the brake is on. If you need the mast out for service or replacement you need to actuate (release) the brake so you can pull it out. Unless your Houdini (or its not holding), it ain't coming out without being actuated (released).
> 
> HTH.


That what I literaly said in previous post.

Ok, 'll try other way - anyone knows the way dropper works? I mean, air must stay only at place (inside upper tube) between valve and brake piston, or ... ? If 'or' then how further it goes? Where the air must be stopped (by oring obviously)?


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

ka81ua said:


> That what I literaly said in previous post.


haha

Good luck brother.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

romphaia said:


> Just finished rebuilding my dropper. The brake stopped working almost completely, oil leaking out of the bottom through the inner shaft, so I also had to totally disassemble and rebuild the brake unit, including new seals.
> Also had to machine a tool to disassemble the brake, and a siringe adapter for a perfect bleed.


Could you, please, explain, all the details about these processes. And please show those tools..


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Attacking Mid said:


> . Now to track down a 1x18mm o-ring.
> 
> AM.


Why 18 if it's 19 (just measured it) ?


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

dRjOn said:


> definitely 214 x ring - another poster mentioned using a 213? the difference is slight but id guess its important. thanks!


o-rings:

31.5 х 2
10.5 х 1.0
26 х 1.5
19 х 1
8 х 1.5

x-rings:

24.99 х 3.53


----------



## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

Attacking Mid said:


> I guess they're a bit hit-or-miss. I like the post when it's holding air, but the main issues they need to resolve (IMHO) are better air pressure retention and better parts/service distribution in the US. A rebuild kit is something like $55 or $60 and must be ordered from Canada. They should make a more basic rebuild kit with a quad ring, an SSR, a foil pack of grease, and a foam ring available for, like, $15 - $20 through a distributor in the US.
> 
> With simple, reliable, and cheaper competition from companies like OneUp, I'll find it hard to justify another 9.8 post when I'm done with this one.
> 
> ...


I'm kind of in this camp too. I have 2 posts as well. (First one was a gen 1 - upgraded to V2 nut, second one came with the v2 nut and SSR) I liked it better than my old KS - but once the air seal starts to go bad ... I've struggled to keep them inflated as well. Just did the service ( yeah - $45 for the rebuild kit on Amazon?!? ) so fingers crossed...but if the SSR is that finicky there's no way it is going to be installed correctly in my post given the fight that happens afterwards getting the keys lined up and inner inserted into outer! ( and i have the key "tool") I suppose I'm a klutz...but...you would think holding 35psi wouldn't be a challenge. Too bad because the "brake" concept rocks - that's the usual downfall of other posts - the whole IFP thing. At least that works - and even if you lose air it works in "manual mode", holding whatever position you want.

If someone posts a really good how-to on doing the service, I would watch it. Trying to understand the directions and the old V2 rebuild, I'm just not sure I got the important points. Not too much grease! But fill half the SSR cavity with grease? Those are conflicting statements...don't push down on the SSR ring? But what about when you slide everything together? I really struggled to get my foam ring seated in the SSR - in the end I think I got it - but really had to do it outside the nut then push the two into the SSR cavity together.

I did an air leak test ( 100psi, 1" compressed ) didn't really see any bubbles, unless I rubbed/poked the blue seal with my finger, but even then hard to know if the bubbles were already there or what.

We'll see.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

I'm having better luck with Slickhoney than their P10L grease.
I'm also having pretty good luck supporting the main seal with a thin o-ring above and below.

_MK


----------



## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

MK_ said:


> I'm having better luck with Slickhoney than their P10L grease.
> I'm also having pretty good luck supporting the main seal with a thin o-ring above and below.
> 
> _MK


Wait - can you clarify supporting the main seal? You mean the foam ring or the Xring? Not that I'm going to rip into mine ... and it isn't going to see any trail time soon. I left it at 100psi to see where it is in a few days/weeks etc.

I do have slickhoney too ... but man ... i hate to use another grease when 9point8 is all freaky about pl10 ... and i bought some like a sucker


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

The X-ring.
I've tried 214 and 213 and prefer the latter (213).
I place a thin o-ring above and one blow the x-ring and have gone from holding air a day to months. 

There is still some refinement to do there.

_MK


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

ka81ua said:


> Why 18 if it's 19 (just measured it) ?


I measured 1x18mm which was later confirmed by 9point8. Just posting this to help future readers avoid confusion.

AM.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MK_ said:


> I've tried 214 and 213 and prefer the latter (213).
> I place a thin o-ring above and one blow the x-ring and have gone from holding air a day to months.


Could you, please, post meqsurements (it's not common here where I am to find x-rings by number-nam of those x-rings 213 and 214, and measurements for your orings you used to sqish x-ring ?
Thank you very much!

If you ever will tear post apart again - photo of that "sandwich" would be great! ))


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

With the old red seal (both V1 & V2) some of my posts held air and stayed slippery better than others. I currently have five 9point8s, four rebuilt with the new blue seal kit and one that came with it. All hold 25psi all season and need less frequent lubing to maintain rebound speed than they used to.


----------



## TazMini (Jun 21, 2019)

I have 2 regular Fall Lines and 2 Fall Line Rs. The Rs seem to suffer from the slow air leak issue more than the regular models. I have resigned myself to yearly rebuilds at this point. May give the o-ring trick a try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

TazMini said:


> I have 2 regular Fall Lines and 2 Fall Line Rs. The Rs seem to suffer from the slow air leak issue more than the regular models. I have resigned myself to yearly rebuilds at this point. May give the o-ring trick a try.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your Rs came with the blue seal? That's the post in my collection that came with the new seal rather than being rebuilt with it. It has held air perfectly since May 2017. I check the air every Spring and a few times a summer drip some Tri-Flow on the seal.


----------



## TazMini (Jun 21, 2019)

Yeah new blue seals on the Rs. 9point8 has been good about doing the first rebuild under warranty. Same when the brake assembly failed. Being 210lbs, I suspect I get a shorter service life than a smaller rider.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

You can get the X-rings and measurements from here:


https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_2205_111_113



_MK


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MK_ said:


> .
> I place a thin o-ring above and one blow the


And measurements of those orings, pls.. At least +/-..


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Why can't someone just make an offset head adapter for a OneUp or PNW? 

Really that's the only thing that has me continually eyeing 9.8 droppers, but man, you guys with all your problems scare me away every time.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

PHeller said:


> Why can't someone just make an offset head adapter for a OneUp or PNW?
> 
> Really that's the only thing that has me continually eyeing 9.8 droppers, but man, you guys with all your problems scare me away every time.


I contacted PNW and mentioned an offset head would be a great idea. They seemed surprised that anyone would want one and said it had never crossed their mind. They didn't sound like they were interested in making it happen.

I was using my oldest 9.8 dropper today and was thinking how bomber it's been. I think this is year #5. My other one has seen 3 years of use. Lots of dust in summer and lots of water/dirt in winter here in BC. I am about to order a 3rd 9.8. I am just waiting to see if they do a Black Friday sale. I would love another offset head option, but I am glad the one I do have works so well and has been so trouble free.


----------

