# belt drive ss



## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

Who is in the market for a new belt drive ss?


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## b2b2 (Nov 22, 2005)

I am!
Cant decide between the Spot Honey Badger and the Spot Cream Ti. I Don't think the ti is worth 3x as much considering how often I buy new bikes.
That being said I've been using belt drive now for three years, same belt and cogs, with almost no problems.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

Not me! I'm still rocking my Strong Frames custom Belt Drive. At first, I was having issues because it was the older belt system. Now that I switched to the centerlock though, I absolutely love it. Super quiet, super stealth, and super low maintenance.


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

Very nice bike!

Great color scheme except for the seat. White saddles are just plain wrong.

I hear good things about the new centerlock belts and plan to try one out next year for my race bike.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

febikes said:


> Very nice bike!
> 
> Great color scheme except for the seat. White saddles are just plain wrong.
> 
> I hear good things about the new centerlock belts and plan to try one out next year for my race bike.


Ha agreed on the seat. I now have plain old black on there now.

But you should definitely consider a Centerlock. I have been really impressed.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

does gates give any trade in for the old system


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

JUNGLEKID5 said:


> does gates give any trade in for the old system


Ah I wish. I'd have another set of centerlocks if they did!


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## joshthedoc1 (Aug 1, 2006)

I've been checking out the Reeb cycles. Anybody with any saddle time??


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

i wish i had some saddle time on one


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## bowtiguy (Sep 14, 2004)

*I do have some saddle time on one...*

Took one out on a DEMO this summer. I road from Redstone Cyclery in Lyons, CO. up Hall ranch via antelope for a couple loops on top then back into town. I was impressed. It had a 120mm Fox RLC fork on it and 135mm TA on the rear.

NOTE: Dave has a demo at the shop fif anyone that lives local is interested.

climbing was fun and the bike very stable. It has a loose feel to it VS. the race type 29er I'm used to ( cuurently ride a 12' Mooto X YBB). You add the slacker HT angle and 120mm fork with some supple Chromo and bombing down Hall/antelope was a blast!

After riding my 2011 Kona rigid SS chaindrive for 2 months, I sold it at veloswap because it was too small for me ( 18: frame). That frame had great geometry too but man did it weigh a lot!

Bottom Line: I ordered a 19" REEB 4 weeks ago, should be here any day. I'm going to run it with the new paragon 142mm TA dropouts, XO trail brakes, HOPE Pro II hubs/ ARCH EX rims tubless with 2.4" knobby Nics and a tapered Fox 120 MM 15QR Talas RLC fork.

I just couldn't justify buying a foreign made frame ( Spot honey badger). After talking to the REEB frame builder/welder, I was sold on the lighter platinum OX tubing set of the REEB. With the exception of my Fatback, all of my rides are colorado hand made now:thumbsup:


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

bowtiguy: keep us posted..


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

b2b2: spots are nice


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## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

Just ordered a Spot Rocker SS frame. will be a belt drive setup.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

very nice


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## banks (Feb 2, 2004)

Since spring of 2009








Nope!


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## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

new Spot SS


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## Biopace (Jul 8, 2005)

Are you guys finding any deals on belts, chainrings and cogs? Looking to move to a belt drive on my Spot Rocker but the cost is close $200.


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## bowtiguy (Sep 14, 2004)

JUNGLEKID5 said:


> bowtiguy: keep us posted..


well its been a little over 2 weeks since my frame came in. I built her up that night and was riding the next morning. Its been my go-to bike since the build. Here are the specs..

REEB gates SS 29er 2012 Build

2631g	REEB 19" frame w/post clamp & Chris King taper I7 inset headset
160g FSA OS 190 31.8mm 110mm stem
1834g	2013 FOX 29er RLC TALAS fork w/ race installed / 15MM QR installed
599g	Shimano XT M770 crankarms/bolts 175mm
91g	Gates 46 tooth front cog
92g	Gates 28 tooth rear cog
82g Gates 118 tooth belt
54g Spot single speed spacer kit
105g	Chris King bottom bracket
216g	Moots Ti lay back seat post 27.2mm 340mm
242g Sella Italia Ti rail Trans Am saddle
226g SLK light carbon bars 685mm bars
111g	Peaty lock on grips
132g Avid 180mm HS3 front rotor
91g Avid 160mm HS3 rear rotor
225g Avid XX front brake assembly
238g	Avid XX rear brake assembly
1942g	HOPE Pro II Rear wheel w/ Arch EX rim / schwalbe noby nick ( 690g)/ stans 
1819g	HOPE Pro II Front wheel w/Arch EX rim/ schwalbe noby nick (690g)/stans 
343g	Shimano 959 pedals

11,232 = 24.79 lbs w/ pedals

The bike rides VERY well. I've ridden mostly front range stuff with it so far... buff creek, betasso, Wed night rides: marshall mesa ( dirty bismark plus everything across 93 with a couple laps on top), Heil, Hall, Picture rock ( usually same ride combined), matter of fact, I'm leaving to do that ride shortly.

I love how quick it handles, much more responsive than my YBB. the short chainstay length (17.5" on the nose) makes it climb like a goat combined with the 2.35" Schawalbe Nobby Nicks Snake skins.

Fit and finish is great, headbadge is riveted on slightly off but who cares, I bought this frame to ride and ride it I do. everything but those long days in the saddle. 3+ hrs, I'm 41 in pretty good shape but anything over 2K ' of climbing and my knees and hips let me know, usually the same day. But I always come back for some more REEB'n when ever I get a chance.

It could be lighter, I could drop the 2.35 for 2.25's and easily swap the Talas fork for a float and drop another pound..... but why? these two features are part of what make the bike so fun to ride. I love climbing in 105mm mode then tossing the lever and taking advantage of teh geometry designed to work with 120mm forks my first 120mm 29er experience down techy stuff like the rock garden at Hall ranch. And the tires GRAB! the extra side wall means less rock dings on the rims too!

I'll be honest, if I would have had the REEB first with the ability to switch it to geared from time to time, I don't know if I would have popped for the YBB ( BIG $$$). The combination of steal frame, Ti layback seatpost and 2.35's run tubless with 29#'s of pressure is a close second to the Moots' YBB unit.


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## bowtiguy (Sep 14, 2004)

Biopace said:


> Are you guys finding any deals on belts, chainrings and cogs? Looking to move to a belt drive on my Spot Rocker but the cost is close $200.


I got my set-up for $135 shipped. found a guy parting out his spot rocker and ucked out the 118 tooth belt worked for me. You can usually pick up new belts on E-bay for $50, gearing is a bit tougher. supply and demand. Just not a bunch of these parts floating around yet on the used market.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

those bikes look awesome... keep up the good work


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

Awesome bike! Is the front tire on backwards?


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## ignazjr (Dec 29, 2003)

Having seen it in person, I can vouch for the fact that bowti's is one absolutely beautiful REEB. Thru axle is the bomb diggity as well!


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## Smellslikesingletrak (Nov 14, 2012)

So sweet


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## r1Gel (Jan 14, 2004)

b2b2 said:


> I am!
> Cant decide between the Spot Honey Badger and the Spot Cream Ti. I Don't think the ti is worth 3x as much considering how often I buy new bikes.
> That being said I've been using belt drive now for three years, same belt and cogs, with almost no problems.


The Honey Badger is currently near the top of my lust list


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## Rock dude (May 24, 2007)

Now I want to sell my Moots road bike and buy a Ti SS.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

This is a serious question - I'm not trolling here. I've never ridden a belt drive bike and I'd like to know what are the benefits, both perceived and real?

People cite smoothness as being one, but my SS with chain drive is as smooth and silent as I can imagine anyone would want a bike to be - tyre noise on the ground and my laboured breathing make the most sound.
And then there's the maintenance free bit - I live in what seems like one of the wettest, claggiest places possible and I never have any big chain maintenance issues. Hose the bike down, dry and re-lube the chain - that's it. Replace the chain every six months or so for the princely sum of £10.

If the appeal is nicheness, then that's fine - I can do nicheness as well as anyone, with my collection of 69'ers. 

How well does the belt system cope with heather and undergrowth, because I always seem to get bits caught in my drive train somewhere or other - unless they're really substantial the chain just seems to cut through them without any problem but I can't imagine a belt doing the same?

I'm sometimes quite tempted to give it a try but I'm put off by a) having to modify one of my frames or buy something new, b) the lack of flexibility when it comes to ratio options and, of course, the expense


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

yes those are all good points and it is ,ore a nich thing... but once you try it you will love it.. specially if its the center track version


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## canyondave (Nov 2, 2007)

I just purchased a 2011 spot rocker.A couple of miles into my first ride I dropped of a 2 footer to flat and broke bearings in the rearhub.Is this common for a belt drive bike?do any of you guys jump your bikes?I am wondering if this is related to the high belt tension.If it happens again I will get rid of it.fun bike quiet wlile untill the bearings broke.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

I have a fixed belt drive street bike (Fixie Inc. Peacemaker) and one advantage is the lack of need for lubrication and much easier cleaning. Also the belt tension is higher than chains should have, so the dead space between going forward and back is smaller. 

Setting the tension does require attention and the rear wheel must be installed straight. Other than that belt drive has been easy and trouble-free for me. 

If you're happy with chain drive, you answered your own question if you should go belt or not. I know I'm sticking to a chain on my SS MTB.


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## dmitry (Apr 1, 2005)

definitely unique one. i like


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

canyondave said:


> I just purchased a 2011 spot rocker.A couple of miles into my first ride I dropped of a 2 footer to flat and broke bearings in the rearhub.Is this common for a belt drive bike?do any of you guys jump your bikes?I am wondering if this is related to the high belt tension.If it happens again I will get rid of it.fun bike quiet wlile untill the bearings broke.


I dont think that doing a drop and bearings braking have to do with the belt.. just me .02
What did your local mechanic say when you brought it in to be looked at and serviced?


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## rideabike06 (Oct 5, 2012)

b2b2- I have a Spot with the older CDC system. It was worn pretty good and skipping under load so I replaced it with a new CDC drivetrain. While tuning my SID the LBS said I had the belt too tight and removed the tensioner. Now it rolls off the rear cog while climbing. Any suggestions? I did notice I had it so tight the freewheel was sounding funny.
Thanks,
David


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## b2b2 (Nov 22, 2005)

Tensioning on the older Spots without the sliders is tricky and takes time to get it just right. to get away with less tension I would try the Plate that covers the rear cog and also acts as a guide, or get a center track system (expensive fix) or a frame with sliding drops (a more expensive fix)
I'm told that the larger the cog and ring combo is the less tension you need to use as well.
I'm selling a few parts on E-Bay now including the cover plate. let me know if you are interested.

Gates Belt Drive Parts | eBay


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## rideabike06 (Oct 5, 2012)

Very interested! Can you sell the plate separate? Thanks for the info.


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## Mripper (Sep 17, 2010)

I switched to a SS for my lunch rides after destroying several derailleurs picking up rocks, etc.. I purchased a Rocker demo at Interbike with the belt drive. I have never ridden anything since. I do all day high country CO rides no prob. I have never had issues with my belts. I recommend finding Center Track Rings and Cogs from an online shop, cheaper than buying from Gates, however, I would recommend always buying belts directly from Gates as distributors and bike shops can mispackage and mishandle them, causing breaks while riding. Never buy a belt that is coiled up, bent, etc. they should always ship on a flat board with no bends or coils. 
When you install a belt drive, pick a steep short ride for your first outing, as any belt break will happen pretty quick and when you are really torquing. I always install a new belt at the beginning of every season. I know they are supposed to last a lot longer, but I just figure it as yearly maintenance. Gates is really awesome about getting you parts and hooking you up if you have any problems with their stuff.


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## JR Ewing (Aug 31, 2013)

*Spot Honey Badger*

I just picked-up my Honey Badger yesterday, SWEEEEEET.

This is my first single speed (and 29er), as I have been riding various Ellsworth models for the past decade.

I must admit, this rig is fast, handles well and the belt drive is super quiet and effective.

I do plan on adding a carbon cockpit and seat post, but that is about it.

The 46x28 is a bit tall for the steep stuff, but not unmanageable. I am sold!


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## CYCLEJCE (Nov 2, 2010)

Sweet ride JR! Does the seat stay design improve ride quality over a typical hardtail design? Also, I'm a Ewing too....


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## JR Ewing (Aug 31, 2013)

Well, I just don't have a baseline to compare. I have not been on a hardtail in over decade and this is my first single speed.

I can tell you that the trails here in Southwestern Riverside County are a mixed bag, and I have about 50 miles on the Badger to date. The bike feels very compliant over the rough stuff and tracks very well for a 29er with a slack head tube. As I am in my fifties, comfort is a big issue. So far, no back or knee pain. 

This was a leap-of-faith purchase and I could not be more pleased. I have been around single speed riders listening to their "fountain of youth" and "you'll be connected to the bike" tales for years - it's all true! No more gears - one for all!


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## rideabike06 (Oct 5, 2012)

Guys I've been dialing in a used 2009 Spot for a couple years now. Entire Gates CT drivetrain was roached, chainline jacked & belt wouldn't stay on. Replaced drivetrain w/ new, adjusted chainline and added an outer plate for the rear cog. Sorted. Turns out the frame shipped bent. Got that fixed and then discovered the brake mount (IS) appears to have been misaligned from the factory. My local frame guru, Cycles Ed did some magic and fabricated an excellent fix. So that's great. Now I've found some resistance and noise in the XTR hub on every fourth crank or so. I'm sure it's a tight spot in the belt and have rotated 90 degrees to evenly stretch it. My question is how to keep the belt snug enough to stay on without stressing the hub? There's no grinding but the bearings are audibly straining in the tighter part of the revolution. Thanks for any help!


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## JR Ewing (Aug 31, 2013)

Hmm, I check my belt tension weekly with both the Gates app on my iPhone and the Gates KRIKIT gauge. For the iPhone app, I keep the belt around 70-75 Hz and on the manual KRIKIT gauge at 60 lbs. I check the belt in 4 different spots each time.

I am assuming that your belt is a CDX Center track belt versus the CDC Mudport style? I have contacted Gates on a couple of issues and found them to be both very informative and responsive to my emails. To date, I have about 1000 miles on my ride with the Gates system with nary an issue. Hope this offers some help.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

rideabike06 said:


> Guys I've been dialing in a used 2009 Spot for a couple years now. Entire Gates CT drivetrain was roached, chainline jacked & belt wouldn't stay on. Replaced drivetrain w/ new, adjusted chainline and added an outer plate for the rear cog. Sorted. Turns out the frame shipped bent. Got that fixed and then discovered the brake mount (IS) appears to have been misaligned from the factory. My local frame guru, Cycles Ed did some magic and fabricated an excellent fix. So that's great. Now I've found some resistance and noise in the XTR hub on every fourth crank or so. I'm sure it's a tight spot in the belt and have rotated 90 degrees to evenly stretch it. My question is how to keep the belt snug enough to stay on without stressing the hub? There's no grinding but the bearings are audibly straining in the tighter part of the revolution. Thanks for any help!


 This, while about fixed gear bikes, will likely enlighten the subject a bit for you.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

Just ordered the Spot Honey Badger from one of my local shops. 
Spot is currently selling them for $1800 and the shop to a little more off it for me so I couldn't pass on the deal. I really wanted to try the belt drive because one of my reasons for the SS was simplicity and low maintenance and it doesn't seem to get any more low maintenance than a belt driven SS.

My price for a belt driven SS put me in the Redline Monobelt or Raleigh XXIX category until I saw the deal on this one and I really liked some of the features Spot had over the other two so it was a no brainer for me. I do however wish they would have stepped the fork up a bit on it but this one will be fine for now. 

Hope I love it as much as you guys love yours. 

I will post pics when I get it and put the tidbits I bought for it on the bike.


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## rideabike06 (Oct 5, 2012)

wschruba said:


> This, while about fixed gear bikes, will likely enlighten the subject a bit for you.


Thanks JR. Forgot to mention the tensioner I installed. I don't believe it's an alignment or tension issue now. And I really only have it tight enough so the belt stays on. Thinking the shmancy XTR hub may not be robust enough for the constant tension of a belt drive. If you think about it, the rigid chain only strains the hub during pealing. The belt, however needs to be stretched all the time to overcome the inherent give of the rubber. Pedaling backwards you can really feel and hear the bearings where part of the belt is shorter. If the belt was uniformly stretched I don't think this would be an issue. I may just try more miles/ lighter tension on flatter trails with repositioning the belt on the cogs a couple times.


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## Shawnee 1 (Feb 15, 2011)

Check front sprocket for uneven wear.If so, will show diff tension.


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## rideabike06 (Oct 5, 2012)

Shawnee 1 said:


> Check front sprocket for uneven wear.If so, will show diff tension.


Thanks, I'll check for indicators.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

Show us the bike already


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## Zerort (Jan 21, 2013)

*650b belt*

Just put this one together for those that are interested in the 650b/ 27.5 wheel size. Pipedream Sirius.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

My belted beast


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)




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## alivings (Aug 30, 2009)

Raleigh XXIX


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## pitbullandmtb (Jul 31, 2011)

Just saw the Raleigh's and liked the way they looked. Want to try one out sometime. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## alivings (Aug 30, 2009)

pitbullandmtb said:


> Just saw the Raleigh's and liked the way they looked. Want to try one out sometime.


This is the 2015 model. So far I love the Gates drivetrain. This model comes with the center drive belt system. Extremely quiet ride.

Its pretty light and fast. Only modifications I am make will be seat post, handlebars and stem.


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## capt rob (May 16, 2014)

I have 500 miles on my Honey Badger CDX so far and change between 2 wheelsets with different rear Cog sizes and have found that getting it even is more critical than tension and much easier on the bearings in the free hub, I know have Sharpie marks for each size on the drop out but one thing I do is rotate the crank in reverse and listen for bearing noise to much tension and you will hear a distinct grinding sound , I back out a half turn and tap the tire with a rubber mallet and check again till the bearing sound is comfortable and cinch it down, I weigh 200 and no issues doing it this way.

I have been so happy with the Gates CDX System just ordered a Spot Rocker Frame on closeout to set up for just off road while my Badger Ridgid is more Hard pack and Urban with Tall gearing 55 x 26 , The Rocker will be 46 x 28 with a Fox Kashima Float Fork .


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## Zerort (Jan 21, 2013)

I tested a 46/30, but I'm switching to a 46/26 combo this week.


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

capt rob said:


> View attachment 920071
> I have 500 miles on my Honey Badger CDX so far and change between 2 wheelsets with different rear Cog sizes and have found that getting it even is more critical than tension and much easier on the bearings in the free hub, I know have Sharpie marks for each size on the drop out but one thing I do is rotate the crank in reverse and listen for bearing noise to much tension and you will hear a distinct grinding sound , I back out a half turn and tap the tire with a rubber mallet and check again till the bearing sound is comfortable and cinch it down, I weigh 200 and no issues doing it this way.


or you could just use a krikit. cheap, easy, and far more accurate. the cdx doesn't require the tension that the cdc does, so if you're doing it by bearing sound chances are you've got it WAAAAAY too tight.



capt rob said:


> I have been so happy with the Gates CDX System just ordered a Spot Rocker Frame on closeout to set up for just off road while my Badger Ridgid is more Hard pack and Urban with Tall gearing 55 x 26 , The Rocker will be 46 x 28 with a Fox Kashima Float Fork .


i've got both, and i'm setting my rocker up with tall gearing to use as a commuter. imho from putting lots of miles on both it's better to run the rocker for hard pack and urban with tall gears (possibly even fixed) and use the badger off road. the ride of the badger is phenomenally superior to the rocker riding it off-road. night and day difference.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

did you paint that frame or is it stock?


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## monogod (Feb 10, 2006)

if you're referring to the honey badger, that is the stock paint.


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## capt rob (May 16, 2014)

Thats just it I am not adjusting to the point of bearing fatigue but test backwards pedaling to make sure I do not ,with the bike on the handlebars I make sure the runout it good and everything is friendly , I have about 3/4 inch up or down movement in the middle, A steel free hub is best as the sharp edges of the Gates Cog can score an Aluminum one fairly quickly , The one on my Stan's Crest 330 hubs cut 1/2 way thru the Aluminum splines before I caught it, Similar to a Race Road bike set up with individual sprockets instead of a Cassette. keeping the spacers very tight is a must .

A cricket is on my short list .


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## alivings (Aug 30, 2009)

JUNGLEKID5 said:


> did you paint that frame or is it stock?


If you are referring to Raleigh, its stock as well.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

I just added some kcnc cranks to the bike. Lost some good weight from the stock set up. Woohoo. My steel stead is just over 21 pounds.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

thanks


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## Zerort (Jan 21, 2013)

Switched to a 46/ 26 cog combo. A little harder on the climbs (nothing too bad) and a little less spinning on the flats.

I do think my old combo of 46/ 30 cog was more fun however as I could bomb up the hills much faster but the flats were pretty boring. I guess it's all where you ride.


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)

*Redline Monobelt*

Here is my 2014 Redline Monobelt. Bought it as a slightly used demo, got a great deal on it. Swapped out the narrow bars and long stem for 750mm bars and a shorter stem. Bike has a reba out front and low end avid hydraulic brakes, which are actually working ok. Fat rubber front and back.

I had not even considered a belt drive until I stumbled on this deal. I have been on 2 proper rides on my local trails and I really really like it. This is my 2nd bike/winter bike as I have a Yeti sb66 for all mountain/light dh duty. This bike is so simple and quiet, it really is a pleasure to ride. And virtually no maintenance. I was able to clear all but 1 climb, which I can normally barely clear on a geared bike. I haven't seen too many of these bikes around and I like having something different. Sorry for the cruddy picture.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

Like


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