# What tools would I need to completely dismantle a mountain bike?



## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Let's say I want to completely take apart my mountain bike. Are there any special tools that I would need to do this outside of the obvious?


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## JimmyNeutron10101 (Jan 3, 2011)

I think I recall reading that some shocks require a special tool or a special tool to make a hour work done in 5-10min.


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## Crosstown Stew (Aug 16, 2008)

What tools do you consider the obvious ones? Something like this would cover you along with a good bike stand.

http://www.parktool.com/product/advanced-mechanic-tool-kit

However if you wanted to do wheels you would want a truing stand and most forks use proprietary tools to work on them properly.


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

many....from BB and suspension specific tools to blind hole bearing pullers....


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Crosstown Stew said:


> What tools do you consider the obvious ones? Something like this would cover you along with a good bike stand.
> 
> http://www.parktool.com/product/advanced-mechanic-tool-kit
> 
> However if you wanted to do wheels you would want a truing stand and most forks use proprietary tools to work on them properly.


The obvious ones would be allen wrenches, screwdrivers, socket renches, etc. I was under the impression that I might need a special tool for the cranks and chain, but that's the only thing that I knew about. I do have a multi tool thing that I purchased in the bike section at Walmart, but I figured that wouldn't cover everything. That Park Tool kit looks nice, except for the price - $260 on eBay!


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## Crosstown Stew (Aug 16, 2008)

Getagrip what all do you exactly want to do on this build? There are many proprietary tools out there depending on brand and type of equipment you have on your bike. Even with the Park Tool kit I mentioned you would still probably have several misc tools to buy. I believe Park's website has descriptions for what each of their tools is made. I'd start there and figure out what tools you will need based off what all you want to do on this build then go from there.

From your question you seem to be a bit of a novice on bike maintenance, this book will really help explain a lot if you are wanting to learn more. http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1884737471


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## random7100 (Oct 9, 2010)

Some people would recommend you buy Park everything. I have one of their tools and it is good quality and useful, but you dont need most of them, you can improvise at home. 

For instance, you dont need any of the tools they sell to remove or install a Zero Stack headset. Ive just done it with careful use of one hammer, a drift and a piece of cloth.

The only 'special' tools id say you need mainly are a Torx driver and whatever special spanner you need for the crank youre using

You dont sound like you mean or want to true wheels or completely rebuild forks


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Crosstown Stew said:


> Getagrip what all do you exactly want to do on this build?
> 
> From your question you seem to be a bit of a novice on bike maintenance, this book will really help explain a lot if you are wanting to learn more. http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1884737471


Yep,I'm a novice!

Actually, not sure exactly what I want to do yet - still kind of undecided. However, it would, at the very least, involve changing out the forks, both derailurs, rims, rear cassette, brakes, shifters, and possibly cranks.


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## markf (Jan 17, 2007)

you'll need any proprietary fork tools, allen keys, cassette lockring tool + chain whip, torx bits, cable cutters + awl to open housing, crank puller, bottom bracket tool. and that's leaving out all wheel tools, because i'm assuming you want to change the wheels entirely not just the rim.


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## Crosstown Stew (Aug 16, 2008)

If you are just taking the fork off and replacing it with another one, you can do that with an allen set, (metric), and might need a rubber mallet to knock it loose if the headset hasn't been maintained. What markf said above plus some grease, http://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube, doesn't have to be park brand but something like it. Be sure to lube all screws before threading them, this will help a lot. Get a decent stand. A stand is probably the best investment you can buy if you are going to do your own wrenching. Best of luck


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

What bike do you have now? It may be a better move to buy a new bike instead of changing everything.


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

Crosstown Stew said:


> If you are just taking the fork off and replacing it with another one, you can do that with an allen set, (metric), and might need a rubber mallet to knock it loose if the headset hasn't been maintained...


don't forget you'll aloso need to move the crown race from the old fork to the new.

rubber mallet and flathead screwdriver to remove (used carefully)

1.25" PVC and rubber mallet to seat it on the new fork

easy peasy


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## PnkCrnk (Nov 25, 2010)

getagrip said:


> Let's say I want to completely take apart my mountain bike. Are there any special tools that I would need to do this outside of the obvious?


Well, depends... Are you planning to put it back together?  Just kidding.

I just have the basic (and incomplete) tools, too. Best thing probably to do is:
1. Identify the parts of your bike and put them in categories (like frame, wheels, drivetrain, brakes, etc.) Make sure to also identify the type of that part; like what kind of headset, bottom bracket, cassette, etc.
3. Research what tool you need to remove and install back each part. This way, you'll end up buying the tools that you need for your particular bike.


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## henry9419 (Nov 18, 2010)

getagrip said:


> That Park Tool kit looks nice, except for the price - $260 on eBay!


if you think $260 is expensive for tools think about this, the more you spend on tools the better quality they more likely they are, so the longer theyll last, but if you buy cheap tools youll end up spending more to keep replacing them, i know mechanics whove spent 10s of thousands of dollars on tools, and theyve had them for 20+ years, and they use them everyday! bottom line spend it once spend it well.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

From what you've posted, I assume you're only taking parts off your bike, and not disassembling the parts themselves. Assuming you have a hardtail with a threadless headset and either a square taper or octolink BB, you will need:

- Hex wrenches
- Flat head screwdriver
- Cassette tool
- Chain whip
- Chain tool (chain breaker)
- Crank remover (square taper or octolink)
- Bottom bracket tool
- Piece of 1 1/8" inner-diameter PVC (for re-seating the crown race on a new fork)

If you have an outboard bearing crankset/BB, you can get away with only the specific BB tool.

You can buy all of the above parts for <$50, or get one of these kits which also has tools so you can work on hubs and headsets:

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=126939&cm_mmc=$%28referrer%29$-_-Bike%20Repair-_-Nashbar-_-BN-PBTK-BASE&CSE=GooglePS&mr:trackingCode=8985AB92-1282-DE11-B7F3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

A couple of you asked what I was up to. Well, I was thinking about purchasing a BikesDirect bike, stripping the parts off of it, and putting them on an 18" Trek frame, since I'm not really a fan of 17" or 19" frame - I'd have to spend $800 or so at the LBS for the parts I can get on a $300 BD bike. I also figure it would be a really good learning experience, but also a major pain in the rear, so I'm having second thoughts.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

By the way, thanks for all of the feedback! I didn't realize how difficult it might be until I read your responses!


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## random7100 (Oct 9, 2010)

Just swapping whole components and sub assemblies over will be easy enough and not take too many tools. i wouldnt worry about that if thats what you want to do.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

getagrip said:


> A couple of you asked what I was up to. Well, I was thinking about purchasing a BikesDirect bike, stripping the parts off of it, and putting them on an 18" Trek frame, since I'm not really a fan of 17" or 19" frame - I'd have to spend $800 or so at the LBS for the parts I can get on a $300 BD bike. I also figure it would be a really good learning experience, but also a major pain in the rear, so I'm having second thoughts.


It's definitely a lot easier to get a complete bike. Many frames are listed at 17.5" of 18", not that the numbers really mean a whole lot. If you like your Trek frame, you might want to compare its geometry with other bikes to see if you can find one that's close, or maybe you can find another frame that will feel just as good.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Good advice s0ckeyeus. Also should be noted that ETT length is probably more important than seat tube size these days.

Sit on a few without discriminating based upon the size listed on the seat tube. You may be surprised. For example, I'm a 17.5 on some frames, but I am comfortable on a 19" on others.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Yeah, I've done that. I'm a strange case. I seem to be ok on some 29er 17" frames that I've test ridden, but not as much on 17" hardtails. However, previosly, I had been riding my mountain bike mostly on paved trails or dirt roads, and when I did take my mountain bike to a real mountain bike course, I had to lower the seat, and I could see the benefits of having a smaller bike. I kind of like the feel of some 19" bikes, but they tend to put more strain on my lower back since I'm more hunched over, plus I think they might be a little too big if I take them off road. So, I think I'm just going to go with a 17" and hope that I like the feel of it when I take it on some single track trails, which is what I think will be the case. I hope to do more "real" mountain biking this year opposed to just paved roads and bike paths, and will probably pick up a hybrid for the others kinds of riding. Not that we have any "real" mountains here in Nebraska! LOL


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

getagrip said:


> I hope to do more "real" mountain biking this year opposed to just paved roads and bike paths, and will probably pick up a hybrid for the others kinds of riding. Not that we have any "real" mountains here in Nebraska! LOL


If you get a new mountain bike, you could always turn your old bike into a more road friendly ride. You could get an inexpensive set of slicks to put on there, and you'd pretty much be set. If you want to get into "real" mountain biking, putting as much of your budget into a "real" mountain bike will pay off. Plus, if you like your Trek frame, you'd still be putting it to good use.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Funny you mention that. I really like the geometry of the Trek 820 - I have honestly thought about doing exactly what you just said. I had one up until mid summer but sold it and upgraded to a 3700. Then I ended up selling my 3700 after only 500 miles, because I didn't like the smaller front sprockets (42/34/24 on the 3700 vs 48/38/28 on the 820), and because the front forks squeaked each time I hit a bump (the bike store would oil the froks, which fixed the problem for about 5 minutes until I hit another bump)! The Trek 820 weighs a ton, but almost feels like a hybrid, so I may get another one and turn it into a hybrid.


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## wg (Dec 20, 2003)

getagrip said:


> Let's say I want to completely take apart my mountain bike. Are there any special tools that I would need to do this outside of the obvious?


If you're going to be moving all components to a different frame, you'll need a few specialized tools (crank puller, bottom bracket tool, chain whip etc). Park and Pedros are good tools but if you're a home mechanic and don't mind saving a few $$, check out the Performance Spin Doctor tools kits. Their fine for the home user vs the pro, daily mechanic.
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/SubCategory_10052_10551_400154_-1_400005_400036

I've been using their "pro" tool kit for a couple years now with no issues for the most part. I've added a few specific Park and Spin tools as I've gotten more comforable with various proceedures. That and Zinn's book have been useful


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks, and to the other poster who mentioned the tool kit on Amazon - good to know you can get good tools for $50. I'm probably going to hold off for now on this project (swapping parts) and pick up a bike stand instead and learn to tune my own bike. On payday, I'm planning to purchase a Motobecane 500 HT Limited Edition, which seems like the best bang I can get for the buck. Hopefully it won't be a nightmare to tune...


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Well...looks like I just had a curve ball thrown at me. I went to a LBS to test ride some Giant bikes which had the same geometry (head tube angle and seat tube angle) as the Motobecane - it was the best way I could determine if the 17" Moto would work for me sizewise. I took a brief ride on a "medium" Giant Revel 1, which was amazingly comfortable. Turns out it was an 18", and after doing some research on this and similar models, it turns out that there is a Revel 2 that has a 48/38/28 front sprocket just like the Trek 820 does, except it has an aluminum frame (instead of steel) and has an upgraded fork over the 3700 with 100 mm of travel instead of 80 mm on the 3700. Seems like the perfect bike for me for the kind of riding I do, as I can take it on or off road. So, I think I'm going to go with it instead of the Moto...technically, its a lot less bike for a little more money, but the fit was just great and I have the LBS to help with adjustments. I did end up purchasing a bike repair stand, so maybe I can upgrade it as I go - I figure the first thing that will go is the shifters, and then the front and rear derailurs. Anyway, just wanted to share my pleasant surprise...I guess Bikes Direct will have to wait! I still might pay a little more for bike with slightly better components if I can get a leftover 2010 at a discounted price, but right now, the Revel 2 seems like a win for me, and it will be nice to ride something different than a Trek for a change!


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Here is a link to the Revel 2 - seems like a great bike for anyone who is on a budget:

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/revel.2.black.blue/7509/44109/


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## Larry_K (Jul 10, 2010)

getagrip said:


> I figure the first thing that will go is the shifters, and then the front and rear derailurs.


One thing to note about upgrading the shifters, the Revel 2 is a 7speed. A shifter upgrade will also mean going up to an 8 or 9 speed, so you're likely looking at getting a new rear wheel along with a new cassette and chain.

If you bump up to the Revel 1 you get disc brakes and an 8 speed from the start, but even from there if you wanted to upgrade the shifters you're going to at least a 9 speed but you would be able to use the stock rear wheel with a 9 speed cassette.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Yeah, that's true - its only $120 more, so that might be the better way to go. I suppose that changing the front sprockets wouldn't be too terribly difficult on the Revel 1 (or am I wrong)? I don't think I'll be doing too much long distance riding until mid March or April, so changing the sprockets out could wait a little while - too cold in Nebraska for that right now! And I suppose I could just change the shifters when I change the sprockets...I prefer Shimano Rapid Fire to Sram, because of the trigger finger with Shimano.


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## Larry_K (Jul 10, 2010)

getagrip said:


> Yeah, that's true - its only $120 more, so that might be the better way to go. I suppose that changing the front sprockets wouldn't be too terribly difficult on the Revel 1 (or am I wrong)? I don't think I'll be doing too much long distance riding until mid March or April, so changing the sprockets out could wait a little while - too cold in Nebraska for that right now! And I suppose I could just change the shifters when I change the sprockets...I prefer Shimano Rapid Fire to Sram, because of the trigger finger with Shimano.


If you're looking for more "top end" speed, the Revel 1 with the 22/32/42 crank will actually be a bit faster than the Revel 2 (by about 1.5mph @ 60RPM) while stock due to the different cassette on the Revel 2. The Revel 1 comes with a 11-32 rear and the Revel 2 is 14-34.

One additional thing to note about shifter changes, if you change from Sram to Shimano you'll have to change your rear derailleur also.

If you prefer Shimano shifters you could take a look at the Trek 3900. It has a comparable fork to the Revel, disc brakes and is an 8 speed like the Revel 1. If you buy either of the Revel models and swap over to Shimano shifters (and other required changes) you'll have spent just as much if not more than buying the 3900 that already comes with them. I don't know how comparable they are to each other as far as frame quality or how they ride but just something to consider.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for your respose. I went to the bike store and found a 2010 Gian Rincon for $450, which is very similar to the Revel 1. Seems like it might be better than the Revel because it is all Shimano and comes with the Rapid Fire shifters. The geometry isn't exactly the same but pretty similar to the Revel...can't pick it up until payday this Friday, but seems like it is the better of the two options, at least for me, a Sram shifter hater!.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Well...changed my mind again. I found what seems to be the perfect bike, and I've created a thread about it here (the Giant Roam):

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=681678


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