# What do you use for derailleur shifting now?



## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

It is like, you need big cogs in the rear, and maybe a triple up front, but you cant find road sti's that will let you shift mountain derailleurs anymore, or has that changed?


So, wtf do you use?


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Just use your fingers!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

SRAM allows you to mix/match road/mtn.

For Shimano, it gets a little more complicated.

If you have cash and are willing to mess with batteries/wires, Di2 allows you to mix road/mtn easily, but mechanical is different. 10spd Shimano road will pair with 9spd Shimano mtn and function well. If 11spd road is the same, it might allow you to pair with 9spd derailleurs. Alternatively, you can use Gevanalle levers (which is what I use on my Vaya) so you can use Dyna-sys derailleurs (10 or 11spd Shimano mtb) with a drop bar setup. You can also try the Jtek Shiftmate if you really want to get into a funky setup. I talked to a guy the other day who couldn't get his tandem working with one of these no matter what (and Jtek sent him two different ones to try, with poor results each time). The Shiftmate isn't a guarantee, but it's an option.


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

Had a look at microshift ?

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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Is all of microshift's stuff interchangable? Is their quality on par with shmano?


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Where do you even get microshift mtn deraillers? And what is this Box derailleur about? What shifters can it use?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> Is all of microshift's stuff interchangable? Is their quality on par with shmano?


The gevenalle stuff uses microshift shifters. I have been riding them for years. They are dead reliable. They are less flashy than ratcheting shimano shifters, but they work.

Shimano shifters WILL die, even the dura ace stuff. The question is when. Maybe a decade or more. Maybe not. Shimano sti shifters twist shift cables. Don't service them often enough and a cable end will break off in there. After that it is a crapshoot. Maybe you can get it out and save the shifter. Maybe not.

Thumb shifters, it takes a lot to kill.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

How do sram and microshift compare to shimano as far as durability and longevity are concerned?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> Where do you even get microshift mtn deraillers? And what is this Box derailleur about? What shifters can it use?





lighty said:


> How do sram and microshift compare to shimano as far as durability and longevity are concerned?


I think you need to do some more reading before just asking questions the moment you have one. Chill a bit and absorb.

ANYTHING with a ratcheting mechanism of any sort has a higher likelihood of wearing out, gumming up, or breaking. SRAM ratcheting shifters have not been around as long as Shimano's, so true decades-long use reports will be tough to find. Shimano STI and rapidfire shifters have a grease that will gum up over time, and the ratcheting mechanism will eventually miss. You can sometimes revive them by blasting that goop out. I worked on a Deore 9spd rapidfire shifter today where no matter how much degreaser I blasted into the shifter pods, I couldn't access the top 3 or 4 cogs on the cassette. The road shifters are subject to this, too. 10yrs seems to be a common point where even well-maintained shifters will need revival. The farther you get past that, the more and more you'll see the shifters unrevivable.

The oldest SRAM stuff I see tends to be gripshift. Usually cheap gripshift, and it dies, too, eventually. Its death tends to be different, because gripshift works differently. I don't have enough experience with the higher end levels of gripshift to say one way or another. I also expect SRAM's ratcheting mtb shifters and its doubletap road shifters will die. All the ratcheting shifters have plastic components SOMEWHERE. That stuff has a finite lifespan.

In the short term when most folks tend to use their stuff? I have my preferences, but they have more to do with ergonomics than anything. Functionally, it all works well. The dual control type road levers have really nice ergonomics. Better than thumbshifters, generally speaking. That's why folks with performance in mind use them. Racers, performance-minded recreational riders, those sorts of folks. You'll find more thumbshifter use among adventure riders and long distance tourers because of the reliability of them.

Thumbshifters are going to be the ultimate in simple function and long life. Especially if you can use them in a friction mode instead of indexed. If the indexing fails eventually, flip it into friction mode and keep chugging along.

Box components are new. I've not heard any user reports here, so you're going to have to dig for that information.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

I am guessing 11 speed is a bad idea due to more dishing and narrower flanges?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> I am guessing 11 speed is a bad idea due to more dishing and narrower flanges?


Huh? Now you're talking about hubs? 11spd mtn (Shimano cassette) does not use freehub/hub dimensions any different from 8/9/10 spd mtn components. 11spd SRAM mtb uses a special freehub body, but its width is no different than 8/9/10 spd Shimano freehub bodies. It's just a different interface to permit the use of smaller cogs on the cassette. 11spd road does use different freehub dimensions and requires a compatible wheelset, however, some manufacturers have been making wheelsets with appropriate dimensions for YEARS before 11spd became available (like Mavic).

Like I said, you need to chill out and read for awhile before asking every question as soon as it occurs to you.

What on earth are you actually trying to do?


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

I am thinking of slowly building up a new bike over a long period of time.

Why the F did shimano make 11 speed road have a wider cassett than 11 speed mtn? WTF? Why are they so hell bent on making things complicated?

And why do you keep telling me to read? I am asking for answers so I can read them. You don't like the questions then don't answer them.

And yeah, surprising as it may be, I am asking about hubs as the rear hub cassette is important in relation to the type of shifting. Stop acting confused because I asked a damn question.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

You are lacking a HUGE pile of background information. That's why I'm telling you to read up. Forums are best for specific, pointed questions. Not cluster bombing with general ones. Google is best for a lot of the questions you have. There are a ton of general explanatory articles floating around out there just waiting for people to dig them up and soak up the information.

The cassettes are both wide. The mtn one fits on a narrower freehub body because the big cogs are big enough to wrap over the hub flanges. On a tighter ratio road cassette, that is impossible. 

SRAM had 11spd mtn cassettes before Shimano, anyway, and SRAM was the first one to do it that way. SRAM pulled it off without requiring a wider freehub body, so Shimano was able to follow suit. It honestly made adoption of 11spd mtb components MUCH easier than if a whole new wheelset was required.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

Ruffstuff said:


> Had a look at microshift ?
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk





lighty said:


> Is all of microshift's stuff interchangable? Is their quality on par with shmano?


I never venture into the bike packing forum, somehow this thread caught my eye, and I have a fair bit of experience with MicroSHIFT stuff.

Both my wife's flat-bar roadie/hybrid and my neighborhood beater bike have MS 'Mezzo' shifters and derailleurs. The Mezzo is pretty low on their hierarchy, probably fits in somewhere just below Deore, and similar to X5. It works just fine. I've even done a little curb-hopping and stair riding and general off-road tom-foolery and the Mezzo stuff didn't miss a beat. It's entry-level kit, and I wouldn't compare it to SLX or X9, but it's perfectly functional, reliable, and in-expensive. My only real complaint is that the gear-indicator window is big and funky and doesn't mesh as well with the brake perches as I'd like ideally.

*HOWEVER*

I have the full ARSIS shifter/derailleur set on my road bike...it's their carbon flagship model from when it was 10 speed. Comparing them side-by-side with Shimano and SRARM, they are in no way lacking. The 'feel' is very different. it's not whisper quiet snick-snick-snick, but it's crisp and precise, and the ergos are well designed. It's also very light.

I haven't had experience with the 'better stuff' for MTB, but I'm tempted by the XCD tier as a cheap set-up to toss on my (now only) bike when SS isn't appropriate and I want gears.
Sadly, the biggest drawback for me is that they don't make a clutch RD, which is rather necessary since I'd be keeping my front SS ring and doing a 1x10 for the occasional parts swap.
I *DO* believe that the upper quality stuff would mimic my experience with the road group and be dead reliable, and function well.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Do you think 10 speed will be phased out, or will it stick around? And what kind of chain life can be expected of both systems?


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## rusheleven (Jan 19, 2012)

Everything will be phased out with enough time. 

That being said, I can still buy a 5 speed freewheel and a set of 27" tires for my road bike.


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

Microshift is shimano compatible so just use a clutched shimano 

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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> Do you think 10 speed will be phased out, or will it stick around? And what kind of chain life can be expected of both systems?


Everything gets phased out eventually. How long will that take? A very long time. I'm not concerned. Most of the time, if you dearly love a frame, you can keep it running with something.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Ruffstuff said:


> Microshift is shimano compatible so just use a clutched shimano
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


Is this microshift road shifters paired with shimano mtn deralleurs?


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I've used a shimano M772 XT 9 speed RD, 11/36 10 speed XT Cassette paired with Ultegra 6700 Crank, FD and STI road brifters before. All works perfectly well and all is still available. Shimano generally keep making XT, SLX and below parts long after they have discontinued and superseded an XTR flagship line. You can still buy new 9 speed XT that was superseded 6 years ago. 

As Harold says there is always Jtek and problemsolvers


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

lighty said:


> Is this microshift road shifters paired with shimano mtn deralleurs?


Not entirely sure, think it's shimano normal of road for road mechs mtb for mtb, it was a busy few months since the convo with lbs spanner.

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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Microshift makes a line of dyna-sys compatible shifters but generally their stuff is like shimano where road shifters should be paired with road der, and mtb shifters should go with mtb der. There are exceptions, such as the 10spd road shifter - 9spd mtb combo that works (I ran that for a couple years just fine).

I now have Gevenalle gx levers which use a microshift thumbie that is shimano mtb compatible, and I have them paired with a clutched slx rear derailleur and 10spd 11-36 cassette and a 10spd double 105 front derailleur on a Tiagra compact double crankset. I am maxing out the chain uptake on my long cage rear derailleur with this setup, to go from 34-36 on the low end to 50-11 high.

I put 42 mi on that bike today in fact.

The thing is, it might seem like you are super limited by incompatibilities with drivetrain components. But you really aren't.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Is it true that 10 and 11 speed chains don't last as long, with the high speeds lasting shorter time? I have heard they last longer and don't last as long. With all the industry trolls out and about it is hard to tell. Sheldon says they don't last as long.


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

Harold said:


> Microshift makes a line of dyna-sys compatible shifters but generally their stuff is like shimano where road shifters should be paired with road der, and mtb shifters should go with mtb der. There are exceptions, such as the 10spd road shifter - 9spd mtb combo that works (I ran that for a couple years just fine).
> 
> I now have Gevenalle gx levers which use a microshift thumbie that is shimano mtb compatible, and I have them paired with a clutched slx rear derailleur and 10spd 11-36 cassette and a 10spd double 105 front derailleur on a Tiagra compact double crankset. I am maxing out the chain uptake on my long cage rear derailleur with this setup, to go from 34-36 on the low end to 50-11 high.
> 
> ...


Put a one up cage on for chain capacity or go hybrid chainset, basically a deore with 48 big ring

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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

lighty said:


> Is it true that 10 and 11 speed chains don't last as long, with the high speeds lasting shorter time? I have heard they last longer and don't last as long. With all the industry trolls out and about it is hard to tell. Sheldon says they don't last as long.


Nothing up with ten speed chains, I'd use kmc then sram then shimano (not a fan even tho kmc make them)
Just work out a budget, then where you're riding & what gearing you'll need then just read through on here, you'll soon know what you need.
this threads got me thinking about thumbies now 

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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Ruffstuff said:


> Put a one up cage on for chain capacity or go hybrid chainset, basically a deore with 48 big ring
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


I already have a bigger range than that, and I wasn't asking for ways to get more.


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

Point in the snotty reply ? I was suggesting a way to reduce the strain on components 💤

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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Ruffstuff said:


> Point in the snotty reply ? I was suggesting a way to reduce the strain on components 💤
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


The components I am using are being used within the manufacturer's stated operational range. I never said that anything was performing suboptimally. On the contrary, they work great. Better than many others, in fact.

Unwanted and unneeded advice is unwanted, simply enough. You got the response you got for that reason alone.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Ruffstuff said:


> Nothing up with ten speed chains, I'd use kmc then sram then shimano (not a fan even tho kmc make them)
> Just work out a budget, then where you're riding & what gearing you'll need then just read through on here, you'll soon know what you need.
> this threads got me thinking about thumbies now
> 
> Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


That did not even come close to answering my question.

Does anyone know if 10 and 11 speed chains last longer or lesser, cuz I keep reading both.


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## Ruffstuff (Jan 12, 2015)

Says nothing up with them, quality control nowadays is high. I've noticed no difference & I've got a ss, a 7, 8, 9 & 10 speed, maybe the 8 speed is strongest of the lot.
10 is fine, depends how hard you're cranking, what you're riding, conditions, how much extreme cross chaining you do etc.
My shimano was swopped out due to damage from hooking up the front mech, it was near ground away by sand & still dealt with 20+ stone & that's my least favourite chain

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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Delete. Duplicate.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility

Okay, so Shimano has turned into an insane butthole company that won't even publish pull ratios any longer. Sram has strayed from 1:1 to other things but you can mix their 10 speed mtn derailleurs with 11 speed road shifters (would those derailleurs actually work with an 11 speed chain?), and for some reason sram thinks only 10 speed users want hydros?!

So how do I get an wide range 11 cassette to work with brifters and wothout a headache and with certainty?


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Why does sram still advertise 1:1 on their site when they are no longer 1:1?


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

lighty said:


> Is it true that 10 and 11 speed chains don't last as long, with the high speeds lasting shorter time? I have heard they last longer and don't last as long. With all the industry trolls out and about it is hard to tell. Sheldon says they don't last as long.


 Last as long as what? 9? Miles/dirt/cleaning/lube servicing schedule? YRMV


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

lighty said:


> Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility
> 
> Okay, so Shimano has turned into an insane butthole company that won't even publish pull ratios any longer. Sram has strayed from 1:1 to other things but you can mix their 10 speed mtn derailleurs with 11 speed road shifters (would those derailleurs actually work with an 11 speed chain?), and for some reason sram thinks only 10 speed users want hydros?!
> 
> So how do I get an wide range 11 cassette to work with brifters and wothout a headache and with certainty?


1x, 2x or 3x up front?


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## Smithhammer (Jul 18, 2015)

35 posts, and I didn't see a single mention of bikepacking. Why is this here and not in a more appropriate sub-forum, ie. "Drivetrain?"


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> and for some reason sram thinks only 10 speed users want hydros?!/QUOTE]
> 
> no. SRAM didn't offer drop bar hydro until 10spd groups. basically the same with Shimano. And for shimano, their first hydro was only available in electronic shifting. There were real engineering issues that took them time to figure out. Neither company is going to go backwards and re-engineer their older groups to add newer tech. That's just pointless. Nobody does that. When they offer improvements to something, it essentially becomes a new thing, even if it might be named the same. They might continue to sell the old thing for a little while, but eventually they will stop doing that, too.
> 
> You're one of those people with unrealistic expectations that seems to think things should always be the same. It doesn't work that way. Quitcher *****in and just figure out how to piece together a drivetrain that will work for you. You still haven't told us exactly what you're looking for, or what you plan to do with it. You just seem to like whining. Get over it (and yourself).


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

What I want is (which I thought I already said...): All of this at a 105 or Ultegra level. Doesn't have to be Shimano.

1) Drop bar shifters

2) An 11-36 rear

3) A 46-30 front

4) either 10 or 11 speed. 11 if the chains last just as long as 9 or 10 speed.

5) it looks like I will be going with canti's, but I want hydros if I go with discs.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

I believe this was suggested upthread, but Get a 10 speed shimano road drivetrain and shifters except the rear cassette (shimano or SRAM mountain) and a 9 speed shimano mountain rear derailleur.

Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

I read that. I would rather have 11 speed if possible.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

One of your criteria is that the chains last as long. In my experience, with similar quality chains, the higher your number of gears, the shorter your chain life. Additionally, higher gear count chains are theoretically more likely to be damaged before they wear out, though I don't have enough experience on this point personally. However, that would be dictated by fairly basic physics (thinner side plates on higher speed count chains).

Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Just gonna leave this here, Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Yeah, does that work well? It is sad that these companies are so demented that such a product must exist. But how do you fix the front derailleur?

And does it last long?


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

fotooutdoors said:


> One of your criteria is that the chains last as long. In my experience, with similar quality chains, the higher your number of gears, the shorter your chain life. Additionally, higher gear count chains are theoretically more likely to be damaged before they wear out, though I don't have enough experience on this point personally. However, that would be dictated by fairly basic physics (thinner side plates on higher speed count chains).
> 
> Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


Not necessarily. Sapim super spokes are the thinnest, strongest, lightest spokes made. I have no idea what hub they are meant to work with though. Metallurgy can have a profound effect. But experience counts most.


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## fotooutdoors (Jul 8, 2010)

I'm talking about a kinked chain... Bending in the axis that was not ment to flex. Yes, metallurgy makes a difference, but not in the same ways that it makes a difference for spokes.

Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

lighty said:


> What I want is (which I thought I already said...): All of this at a 105 or Ultegra level. Doesn't have to be Shimano.
> 
> 1) Drop bar shifters
> 
> ...


Seems like the rear gears and brakes are easy. SRAM 11 speed hydro shifters and a 10 speed mtb derailer.

The front is a bit tricky still as we don't know what crankset you intend to use. The only set I know of with that ring combo is the Velo-Orange Grand Cru but it is listed as only compatible up to 10 speed. Though they say it works fine with road double derailers so you could just use a SRAM road and be done with it.

Edit: Actually SRAM S700 looks like a good option.


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## Mark_BC (Sep 19, 2012)

Shifters? Where we're going we don't need shifters...


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> Yeah, does that work well? It is sad that these companies are so demented that such a product must exist. But how do you fix the front derailleur?
> 
> And does it last long?


Stuff like this has been available for time immemorial. I still have an Avid rollamajig which didn't change pull ratios like this does, but it improved cable routing on older rear derailleurs (same garbage that road bikes still have, honestly).

Similar product with more versions for more applications:

Jtek ShiftMate | Jtek Engineering

As for the front, you realize the 46-30 is a bit of an odd size, right? Honestly, this whole inquiry is better suited for a road forum and the DRIVETRAIN forum.
Who makes 11-spd compact cranksets with 46/30 rings?


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

lighty said:


> It is like, you need big cogs in the rear, and maybe a triple up front, but you cant find road sti's that will let you shift mountain derailleurs anymore, or has that changed?
> 
> So, wtf do you use?


 I don't bikepack with road drops. I use a mountain bike( Karate Monkey) flat bars, bar ends, mt shifters and derailleurs.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

You want something that lasts a long time: Rohloff!


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

While the rohloff saves money in the long term, it is too expensive up front, especially with a Gebla. This bike needs to be cheaper. Plus I really need drops.

And if you want the thread moved go whine at the admins. I am not an admin. I have no thread moving powers. The reason this thread is here is because my riding most closely resembles bike packing/touring, and my gearing would be in such a range.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

lighty said:


> While the rohloff saves money in the long term, it is too expensive up front, especially with a Gebla. This bike needs to be cheaper. Plus I really need drops.
> 
> And if you want the thread moved go whine at the admins. I am not an admin. I have no thread moving powers. The reason this thread is here is because my riding most closely resembles bike packing/touring, and my gearing would be in such a range.


So you want it to be cheap, but you want all of the latest hydraulic road disc brakes and shifters, current 11 speed drivetrain, you want it ultra durable, and you want components to be compatible between different numbers of speeds and between different manufacturers.

Good luck with that...


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

bikeny said:


> So you want it to be cheap, but you want all of the latest hydraulic road disc brakes and shifters, current 11 speed drivetrain, you want it ultra durable, and you want components to be compatible between different numbers of speeds and between different manufacturers.
> 
> Good luck with that...


Bingo. Options have been given for the OP to accomplish most of what he wants. This kind of drivetrain involves compromises. It's a bastard drivetrain. It appears that the OP wants all of the drivetrain companies to design a solution specifically for him so he can pick the one he likes best.


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## formula4speed (Mar 25, 2013)

Something that might be interesting to you could be the Patterson FSA Metropolis internally geared crankset. Long name, but basically it's a 28 tooth crankset with an internal "overdrive" that makes for a 45 tooth. No front derailleur, should work with basically any shifter setup.

I have one, I think it works quite well, but I haven't done any high mileage touring with it. It's pretty simple and self contained so I expect it to be pretty durable. Not exactly 30/46, but 28/45 seems like a good combo to me.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Yeah man. I'm all cray cray and **** for wanting to use mountain derailleurs with road shifters, which used to be quite convenient before 9 speed went out.


Harold said:


> Bingo. Options have been given for the OP to accomplish most of what he wants. This kind of drivetrain involves compromises. It's a bastard drivetrain. It appears that the OP wants all of the drivetrain companies to design a solution specifically for him so he can pick the one he likes best.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

lighty said:


> Yeah man. I'm all cray cray and **** for wanting to use mountain derailleurs with road shifters, which used to be quite convenient before 9 speed went out.


Those days have been gone for a long time. You got your bellyaching in, so suck it up, buttercup, and deal with the current situation.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

Most modern road derailers will handle cassettes that have the same range a 9 speed mtb cassettes had/have. Not sure what the complaint is there. 

It's actually not hard to find a derailer that will work with modern, huge, mtb cassettes, or a simple solution to make it happen (like a Shiftmate or Tanpan) either.

Heck, Sram S700 shifters, brakes, derailers paired with some Velo-Orange Hand Cru cranks will give the op the exact configuration they wanted, if I'm not mistaken, so I'm not sure what there is left to complain about.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

big_papa_nuts said:


> Most modern road derailers will handle cassettes that have the same range a 9 speed mtb cassettes had/have. Not sure what the complaint is there.
> 
> It's actually not hard to find a derailer that will work with modern, huge, mtb cassettes, or a simple solution to make it happen (like a Shiftmate or Tanpan) either.
> 
> Heck, Sram S700 shifters, brakes, derailers paired with some Velo-Orange Hand Cru cranks will give the op the exact configuration they wanted, if I'm not mistaken, so I'm not sure what there is left to complain about.


He'll find something to complain about: It's too expensive and it's only 10 speed!


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

OK, wait a minute here. Have you even researched this at all? I just went to the SRAM website and found exactly what you are looking for in about 30 seconds. 

SRAM Force HRD shift/brack levers: 11 speed and hydraulic disc
SRM Force rear derailleur: 11 speed and can handle up to a 10-42t cassette
Take your pick of 11 speed cassettes
SRAM Force front derailleur
For the cranks you will have to go old school probably, like the above mentioned Velo Orange, or a pricier option from Compass Cycles.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

bikeny said:


> OK, wait a minute here. Have you even researched this at all? I just went to the SRAM website and found exactly what you are looking for in about 30 seconds.
> 
> SRAM Force HRD shift/brack levers: 11 speed and hydraulic disc
> SRM Force rear derailleur: 11 speed and can handle up to a 10-42t cassette
> ...


it's worth noting that I think the 11-36 11spd PG1170 cassette is under the road product category, and therefore probably requires an 11spd road compatible rear wheel. Even though the Force1 rear derailleur can go up to a 10-42, SRAM makes it sound like it can't handle enough uptake to handle a 2x crank along with a 10-42. It does sound like it can handle an 11-36 with a 2x crank, but you run into wheel spacing issues. If you're fine with that, you can stop here.

So using a gear inches chart (OP, why has this not been mentioned in your posts yet?), for a 46/30 crank and an 11-36 cassette, I get a range of gearing from 23.2 gear inches to 116.5 gear inches (making some assumptions about tire size and crank length).

There are other ways to accomplish that kind of gear range. Let's start with a standard cross crank of 46/36. Nothing odd there. Available from lots of manufacturers with a variety of options for BB. Whereas the 46/30 pretty much limits you to a square taper bb, and therefore limits your frame choices. That may or may not be important to you.

Solution 1: Go Shimano Di2. This is the absolute easiest way. Get Di2 drop bar levers (Ultegra or Dura Ace), combine with Di2 derailleurs (road front and XTR or XT Di2 rear). Shimano Di2 components mix between road and mtn with no headache.

Solution 2: Mix components. Start with Gevenalle levers. GX if you want mechanical pull brakes. Get the Hydraulic ones if you want hydro brakes. Use Shimano road mechanical FD and Shimano MTB Dyna-sys RD. Boom. It works. Also in the component mixing options would be the Shiftmate/Tanpan option. Make sure before you buy that you're getting the correct cable pull adapter for your chosen setup. This one would be a touch more complicated, but it also works.

On any of these setups, make sure the wheels you choose are compatible. If you want to use an 11spd 11-36 cassette, you need to use a road hub that's 11spd compatible. If, however, you are willing to use a wider range cassette, you can use mtb hubs and make sure they're compatible with the freehub body of the type of cassette you want to use. If you want to use SRAM 10-42, or one of the other 3rd party cassettes that require the XD driver, then you need to make sure an XD driver is available for the rear hub you choose. If you would rather use a Shimano 11spd or one of the Shimano compatible 3rd party cassettes, then you should have fewer compatibility questions.

But still, OP, you're making this harder than it should be. Components exist to make the setup you want work. But you have to be a little bit intelligent and do some research to ensure that you are choosing the correct components that will work together. You can't be lazy and expect to buy a box of parts with one click of your index finger and expect them to work. And frankly, you've been quite lazy and pissy about it so far.


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## lighty (Mar 26, 2016)

Um, actually I did spend time looking it up. Been a while so can't recall what all I looked at. Still lame that road derailleurs won't handle large cogs. Shimano only handles 34 last I looked.

Def not going sram with that retarded screw on spline. An yeah, the tanpan solved this a while back technically, but I dont trust it. Just to make sure, road and mtb cassettes have same spacing between sprockets and are interchangable on the right hub?


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