# Specialized Rock Hopper



## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

*1990 Specialized Rock Hopper Sport*

Hi, I've been lurking for years but finally got around to creating an account.

I'm in the process of getting my Specialized Rock Hopper ride-able again. I soon learned it's considered 'vintage'.  The bike is 100% original. I think it's a 1990 or 1991 but I'm not 100% certain. I must have been just starting HS when I got it. I rebuilt one of the brifter as it has stopped ratcheting. Took apart almost all of the bike then cleaned everything I could and reassembled it. I've been out of the cycle world since '97 and a lot has changed since then. I'm hoping to get this bike up and running then I'll figure out what I want to do. Either keep riding it or get a new bike and keep both.

It's hard to see in the photo but it has a good layer or dust and crud all over it. Most of the chrome was a bit rusty and there was dirt and grease all over. Luckily, the bike had been storied in a dry place for all that time. The corrosion happened when it was in Hawaii a few years. Anything and everything rusts there even when it's kept dry.

I'm thinking that I'll try to keep the bike original and not change anything unless it's broken. I'm almost to the point there all I need are tires and tubes. I've been going back and forth on the many choices out there. It originally had Crossroads. I'm debating going with something mike a Maxxis Holy Roller or a Conti Race King or maybe a Gravity or Explorer. Or maybe Specialized Rhythms or Compound Pro's or even Crossroads agian (although the new ones are worlds different then my old ones)... I think I want to go with some wider tires though. The 1.95's were on the skinny side. Any help with tires would be appreciated. :thumbsup:


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Might be a 1987 model in the 'Olympic Blue' color.

edit. the 1990 Rockhopper Sport was the same color as your bike, I think the 87 model had the rear brake mounted on the chainstay.


.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

cobba said:


> Might be a 1987 model in the 'Olympic Blue' color.


I thought that as well at first but I found some pics on Google that are 90-91. Also, I was told the Exage 400 LT stuff was probably early 90's. I too think it's Olympic Blue.

I was looking at this site: http://www.mombat.org/Specialized_Specs.htm but it doesn't really go past '87 on the Rock Hoppers.

I vaguely remember the name Rock Hopper Sport...


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

That blue looks great.


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

1990 Rockhopper: 















1990 Rockhopper Sport: 















1990 Rockhopper Comp:


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Hmm, interesting. The color matches the Comp but there are some differences. The tires on my bike are Crossroads not Ground Controls like on the Sport. The Derailers are Shimano Exage 400 LX's (aka: M400) not Deore LX's or M500's. The pedals though are plastic.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

notthatjeffy said:


> Hmm, interesting. The color matches the Comp but there are some differences. The tires on my bike are Crossroads not Ground Controls like on the Sport. The Derailers are Shimano Exage 400 LX's (aka: M400) not Deore LX's or M500's. The pedals though are plastic.


Specialized, like other companies, did lots of changes mid-run.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Ah, ok, that makes sense. I'll have to see if I have the original catalog and owners manual floating around some place.

Well, I think I've narrowed down my tire choice to some Conti Gravity 2.3's. I hate the look of gumwalls.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, here's the bike with new tires and tubes. The wheels need to be trued up but otherwise everything else is adjusted.

After 15 years off the bike, I really need to build my confidence back up. I remember the techniques but it's a bit unnerving riding something so small. Only got to about 30-35 MPH before I chickened out. :lol: I still need to see if I can find my old Avocet cyclometer.

Next up, are bar ends and plugs! Don't need to take any core samples. If I take it any further, I might swap to V brakes and maybe go SS but that would be later.

Hope you enjoined the pictures.


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## propguy (Oct 2, 2008)

Just finished a SS build on an almost identical bike. My bike is a 1990 GF Advance. It was equiped with the Shimano Exage LX400 series group as you have. Converted the original Biopace crank to a single Origin 8 34T chainring. Used a new Surly 20T cog on the original 7spd hub with a tensioner. Kept the original seat post and stem. The wider Easton bar and new Shimano V brakes makes this bike a very fun, old school rigid ride! Oh, did I say it's 22 lbs?


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Very nice! I've still got to get back into shape to ride it for more then a mile.  I've been told I'm crazy to consider SS with some of the hills around here. Still, I might do it to spite them.  I heard the magic number is 34/20 so as not to require a tensioner.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Oh and I found my Cyclometer!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Got a follow up question. My pedals creek so I'm going to replace them before something bad happens. I'm trying to decide between some Victor VP-767 Bear Traps which would be the 'vintage' thing to do or else some modern Wellgo MG-1's. The Wellgo's seem to be better made but would I really notice? Should I go retro or modern?


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

There are still bear traps available. 

Question? There is a lot of space for clearance on your fork! Mine is much tighter! What is up with that? Did they think of correcting back then?


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> There are still bear traps available.
> 
> Question? There is a lot of space for clearance on your fork! Mine is much tighter! What is up with that? Did they think of correcting back then?


I ended up ordering some Wellgo MG-1's as they're the new thing. Although the Bear Traps would have looked cool as well. Hopefully I'll have them by next week.

What year is yours? Mine came with 1.95's standard. I know the Hardrocks of the same year had more road going tires which were skinnier. I believe the forks were also narrower.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Sorry I can't remember the tires! I remember going with Farmer John's right after. Looking at your first photo, it just looks like a lot of clearance there??? Maybe the Small tire effect.

After properly thinking!!! I pulled up 1990. A white Stumpjumper is all I can find. Then "On this board" there is a 91 stumpy. Gray primer looking bike which I still have. Put some fatty's on the bike and run with it. Thumb shifters IMO are still rock solid. I might get some flack! but my old thumbies kick faster then my new stuff.

Uh oh here comes a debate??? Ride that awsome bike untill your ready for some fresh stuff.

I still ride my 90?91 and it is lite and fun everytime.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

You might want to check out the Specialized Thread as well. I'll have to add mine to the thread once I get it sorted.

I'm honestly thinking about keeping the bike as my only bike and just dump money into it as necessary. I would like to get new wheels so I can have them black. Then maybe swap to BB7's and maybe do a SS or a 1x7 or 1x9 or something. The bike looked beat when I took it out of the garage but now, it's looking pretty good and it's growing on me again.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

I'm pretty sure you'll find your bike doesn't have disc mounts, but you could run v-brakes with long-pull levers or Travel Agent adapters.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

ong said:


> I'm pretty sure you'll find your bike doesn't have disc mounts, but you could run v-brakes with long-pull levers or Travel Agent adapters.


My mistake. I mean to say SD7's not BB7's.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Anyone know a way to keep my Shimano Derailers, but change out the M500 LX Brifters to separates? What would I use to stay somewhat period correct? I can't find any rapid-fires only some Deore II and Deore XT thumbs. I would like to keep the rapid-fires if I can.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

You could always find a 7-speed Gripshift set -- those are usually super-cheap now. Or, if you're just trying to get your existing levers to work with long-pull brakes, you could run a pair of Travel Agents (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR409Z01-Problem+Solvers+Travel+Agent.aspx). I've been using those on a daily rider for about 2 years, and they work great.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

ong said:


> You could always find a 7-speed Gripshift set -- those are usually super-cheap now. Or, if you're just trying to get your existing levers to work with long-pull brakes, you could run a pair of Travel Agents (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR409Z01-Problem+Solvers+Travel+Agent.aspx). I've been using those on a daily rider for about 2 years, and they work great.


I'd like to stick with rapid-fires though. I've had years of experience with them and like them a lot. I don't really want to go with grips. If I have to I'll go back to levers. Seems Shimano was still offering levers during the 90's.

I'm also wondering if I can go with a 8-speed lever on my 7 speed cassette and derailer? I've found some mention that I would use a 8-speed lever with a 8-speed derailer on a 7-speed cassette.

The only rapid fires I've been able to find are Deore XT M740's, MC40 STX/Alivio, Deore LX M569 which are 90's stuff. I hate the windows but I can live with it. Otherwise, I'll just go with old Deore levers.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

propguy said:


> Just finished a SS build on an almost identical bike. My bike is a 1990 GF Advance. It was equiped with the Shimano Exage LX400 series group as you have. Converted the original Biopace crank to a single Origin 8 34T chainring. Used a new Surly 20T cog on the original 7spd hub with a tensioner. Kept the original seat post and stem. The wider Easton bar and new Shimano V brakes makes this bike a very fun, old school rigid ride! Oh, did I say it's 22 lbs?


With a set of slicks that would make a great commuter or just plain fun bike. Nice job.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

So I got the new pedals on. I was also able to take a better assessment of the original parts as well.

The good news is the new pedals feel 1000x better. The Wellgo 'Blue' is actually pretty dark. Like a Navy Blue. I'd hate to scrape them up on the pavement.  They give me a real stable platform compared to the VP's. I bet the VP's flex some when leaning over.

The bad news is it seems the creaking I heard is actually in the BB.  It's only seems to happen when I'm leaning the bike over with the crank at 3 and 9. It doesn't seem to creak if I'm powering.










Here's the specs I've been able to find on the bike.


Crank - Shimano FC-M400
Derailer - Shimano Exage 400 LX
Brakes/Levers - Shimano Exage BR-M351
Brakes - Shimano Exage ST-M050
Front - Wheel Araya 26x1.50 HE VP-20
Rear Hub - Shimano Exage FH-HG50
Rings - Shimano BioSpace SG 48/38/28
Cassette - Shimano Hyperglide 30/26/23/20/27/25/13
Pedals - Hung Kuang VP-872
The bars don't have a Specialized logo like some I've seen. I can't find any markings on the stem or the head set. It does seem to read 22.2 on a seal though. According to Shimano the BB is either 122.5mm for SP LGTH 47.5 CN LINE or 127.5mm for SP LGTH 50 CN LINE. I'm guessing that's one one the same depending on the spline length? Or is that two separate BB's one 122.5mm and the other 127.5mm? How would I select a new BB if I was going to?


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## propguy (Oct 2, 2008)

Your BB shell is probably 73mm. Since your crankset is the same as mine, the spline length should be 127.5mm. Definitely have your BB re-lubed. If your lucky that's all that will be needed. My BB was dried out, bearings shot and the drive side bearing cup was pitted. Easy and inexpensive repair at the shop.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

propguy said:


> Your BB shell is probably 73mm. Since your crankset is the same as mine, the spline length should be 127.5mm. Definitely have your BB re-lubed. If your lucky that's all that will be needed. My BB was dried out, bearings shot and the drive side bearing cup was pitted. Easy and inexpensive repair at the shop.


Thanks for the info! Very helpful.

I've been told by a friend that I should pull my seat post out to make sure the creaking I'm hearing isn't from the seat tube. I'll try that out tomorrow.

Do you or anyone else happen to know the size of pin for the BB? Getting my tool list together.


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## Linoleum (Aug 25, 2008)

Nice rehab man. Please remove that decaying plastic ring on the back wheel.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Linoleum said:


> Nice rehab man. Please remove that decaying plastic ring on the back wheel.


That's Vintage man! rft: :lol:

I don't own a cassette socket so it will stay. I don't really feel like breaking it off. Yeah, it's a bit gay dated but I'll hopefully be getting new wheels and moving on to Stage 2. :thumbsup:


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

There's nothing homosexual about that spoke protector. I assume you mean it's lame?


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Here's what I have in mind. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=658442


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

Do it. I went all XT 9s on my mid 90's Stumpjumper. I already had some XT/CX717 wheels sitting around, and found most everything else at swap meets. Only had to order the cranks. It's nice. I've always been a fan of those bikes, and wanted new components on it. Sure, it may annoy the purists, but the frame isn't anything special. I love riding it. Rigid with big tires is awesome.

I may even grab that X7 build kit from your other thread for my Bridgestone commuter.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, I did some experimenting. A friend of mind said I should grease the seat post really well and see if the creaking goes away. I pulled the seat post out and from the little jaunt on the street it seems to be gone. So, I went ahead and greased the seat post. Took another ride and didn't hear any noise I think that fixed it but I'll have to listen for it when I do a longer ride.

I'm sill going to be gathering parts and tools for the conversion over winter, but I'm glad, I'll be able to ride it in the meantime.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

I think what I'll try to do is update it in two stages instead of one. The first stage will be to swap to thumb shifters an then do the V-brakes. I've been watching eBay for some period correct Shinamo XT shifters. It will all depend if I can get them for a reasonable price. ie., cheap.

This will then allow me to get rid of the brifters. Then I'll be able to get new wheels and all of the hardware necessary to change it over to 9-speeds.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Here's another update; I just decided to use some Vintage Shimano Deore XT thumbs. Problem is the left side's bolt hole is stripped! :madmax: Gotta talk to the ebay seller about that. Looked like someone used epoxy to hold the shifter in place. Then used a longer bolt with a washer on it to hold it barely on. 

Good news is these shifters index better then my Rapid-fires. I can see why they used them on the Stumpjumper. New brakes and levers should be here sometime today is all goes well. New grips also arrived. Can't wait to have brakes that aren't vague and squishy.


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## 805MTB (Jul 4, 2010)

looks clean:thumbsup:


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks!

Ran into a little problem. Turns out my cables are way too big for the noodle so I'm going to have to get a new cable set. Is this a Shimano thing for did the industry change? The new brakes are Avid SD-7's.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

notthatjeffy said:


> Here's another update; I just decided to use some Vintage Shimano Deore XT thumbs. Problem is the left side's bolt hole is stripped! :madmax: Gotta talk to the ebay seller about that. Looked like someone used epoxy to hold the shifter in place. Then used a longer bolt with a washer on it to hold it barely on.
> 
> Good news is these shifters index better then my Rapid-fires. I can see why they used them on the Stumpjumper. New brakes and levers should be here sometime today is all goes well. New grips also arrived. Can't wait to have brakes that aren't vague and squishy.
> 
> ...


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Yeah, the thumbs are nice. My rapids always needed extra clicks to get it from rattling. The thumbs are set up perfectly and index great. My rings are good I think.

Just need to sort the brake issue then decide on what to do with the 3x shifter.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

My new LX stuff is not top of the line! But the 20 year old Deore XT would scare you how fast and now it moved. 

Love technology, Sometimes the old basics were just better. I would like to not compensate with my fingers to re-learn every new bike I own. Thumb shifters had no variables! It clicked. It was over.

You don't need my Deore's? Don't want money.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> My new LX stuff is not top of the line! But the 20 year old Deore XT would scare you how fast and now it moved.
> 
> Love technology, Sometimes the old basics were just better. I would like to not compensate with my fingers to re-learn every new bike I own. Thumb shifters had no variables! It clicked. It was over.
> 
> You don't need my Deore's? Don't want money.


Oh, you have the 3-speed Deore XT shifter? Sure I'll take it if it needs a good home. Thanks! PM me.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

notthatjeffy said:


> Oh and I found my Cyclometer!


It still works?
I had one back in the day, but it died of it's own accord.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Dougal said:


> It still works?
> I had one back in the day, but it died of it's own accord.


Actually, I haven't got a new battery for it BUT when I put it away, it did work.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

notthatjeffy said:


> Oh, you have the 3-speed Deore XT shifter? Sure I'll take it if it needs a good home. Thanks! PM me.


Yep. Sounds like you could use it. Check your PM's


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks Jim!

I found out my issue with the brakes after some digging. Turns out 2.8mm cable was common on early MTB's. I ordered some new cables which should be here in a few days.

I hate not being able to ride it. I usually just ride for 30 minutes just to tweak things but can't with the brakes out of commission.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Yet another question. I would like to replace my wheel set. My budget it $200-250.

I've been looking at:


http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=91209&page=Shimano+Xt+765+Sun+Rhyno+Lite+Disc+Wheelset
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=91946&page=Shimano+Xt+M756+Sun+Singletrack+Wheelset
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd....+Xt+M756+Sun+Rhynolite+Mountain+Bike+Wheelset
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=26077&category=899

I'm around 190lbs and do bump up curbs and such. I'll be shimming the cassette so I can run my 7-speed till I get around to swapping to 9-speed stuff later.

I'm open to other sellers/brands/models/etc... What's the best bang for the buck?


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

I really love all my old thumb shifters and the way they shift and respond, but to be honest when I'm out riding I want my shifting to be under the bar. My thumb is already there, my hand doesn't move at all and **** just gets done. I'll reserve the thumbies for city riding and camping trip bikes I suppose.


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## metaljim (Apr 22, 2009)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...fbf02c4&itemid=380166054167&ff4=263602_304642

These are light and sturdy. Can be had for about $100 less than that price though if you look around. I got mine for $200, friend got hers for $140.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

metaljim said:


> https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...fbf02c4&itemid=380166054167&ff4=263602_304642
> 
> These are light and sturdy. Can be had for about $100 less than that price though if you look around. I got mine for $200, friend got hers for $140.


Man, I'd love to find them for under $200! I'd want black and they seem to charge a premium on them, $280! I'll shop around a bit and see what comes up. I checked just about everywhere and couldn't find them under $250. I know once I buy them I'll find them for $150 though. 

I was able to put some new parts on the bike. I rode it around with no brakes and I can't help buy notice how much more comfortable the seat is!(Speed V) The bike feels a bit lighter as well. With the new grips, the bars feel tiny and very light. The old ones were huge foam grips. These are nice and grippy. New cables should be here by Thursday.


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## TerryD (Nov 11, 2009)

Does anyone know of a source for nos or new decals. I have a 1987 Rock hopper.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Don't know about new decals. I'm sure if you took samples or the whole bike to a shop they could match it.

I've got a question for the Vintage folks. On the ring gear is say's BioSpace Narrow Chain only. Is this because of the Biospace rings or is it the whole system? What I'm wondering is if I replace the crank with newer gears would I be limited to narrow chains?


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

NOTHATT. Your goodies are on the way.

Please take a old butter knife! Heat the tip white hot and slice off the spoke protector.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> NOTHATT. Your goodies are on the way.
> 
> Please take a old butter knife! Heat the tip white hot and slice off the spoke protector.


Thanks! I'll keep an eye out for them.

No one like the spoke protector! I might keep it on there just to piss people off. :lol: I'm hoping to order some new wheels so I will burden you all with the spoke protector, no more.

On a sour note. I've got a knock in the BB. I can feel a light knock at 3 and heavier one at 6 if the pedal is the hand. Is it a simple fix or will I be swapping out the BB sooner rather then later? It seems that if I back pedal some, it clears it up for a while but that might just be my imagination.

On a good note, the new brakes feel pretty good once set up. They worked so well I could feel that my head set was loose. :thumbsup: Although they show me how wavy my wheels are. I've got the front's backed out pretty far so they don't rub. I need to get a spoke wrench and see if I can fix it some otherwise I'll just wait for the new wheels.

Thanks again!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Some updates; I found out what was causing the knocking. It wasn't the BB but rather the ring bolts. Tightened them up and it's quiet again! Glad that was a cheap fix. :thumbsup:

The parts Jim sent came today! Thanks again Jim! I wasn't expecting the front derailler as well! After a quick cleaning, I installed them. You can really appreciate the difference between Exage and Deore parts. Now, all I need to do is find a Deore rear derailer and I'll be good. :thumbsup: 

To keep the BioSpace and Crank Set or go newer... Although first up would be to get my wheels sorted. I'm sort of looking at Mavic 719's and XT hubs... I can't seem to find 717's for under $250 on ebay and online at BWW for $289. BWW has the 719's for $259 with SLX hubs and $5-10 for XT's.

Oh and I used an old Flat Stop that I had in my old tire for a chain stay protector.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Your welcome! We both need to locate a Hite-rite!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> Your welcome! We both need to locate a Hite-rite!


Hmm, one of those seat adjuster, huh? I might have to look for one of those. 

Oh and I need to get some bar ends!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Fixing some loose ends still. I ended up hearing the knock again and pulled the cranks. Put them back and the knock turned into a creak. Tightened down the crank nut to 40ft-lbs and the creaking stopped. I'll have to get a proper puller as there isn't enough bite for my gear puller to work anymore. Unless I make some plates.

So, I guess I'll be keeping my BioSpace gears and Exage 400 cranks. Hopefully, my spoke wrench will arrive tomorrow so I can try my hand at truing up the wheels. Then 'll be able to set the brakes up properly. I have a cassette took coming as well so I can remove the cassette and perhaps the spoke protector.

So far I've probably managed to put 20 miles or so on it since fixing it up. I still have to get used to the thumbs as I'm not 100% on which way I need to adjust them all the time.

I'm thinking that I'll eventually get some Mavic 719's with Shimano XT hubs later on. Then all that I'll need to do is ride it. Oh and get some shorts, gloves and new sunglasses.

I'll probably take some more pics in a few days.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

notthatjeffy said:


> Hmm, one of those seat adjuster, huh? I might have to look for one of those.
> 
> Oh and I need to get some bar ends!


Got the check, thank you! Don't scoff off the bar ends. I have been puttin around with my new bike thinking bar ends are old school!!!!

Don't care. I'm going old! I miss em. Thinking of going old school cushy foamies also. The Hite-rite is a plus. If I pack Metamusil? would that be wrong???


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> Got the check, thank you! Don't scoff off the bar ends. I have been puttin around with my new bike thinking bar ends are old school!!!!
> 
> Don't care. I'm going old! I miss em. Thinking of going old school cushy foamies also. The Hite-rite is a plus. If I pack Metamusil? would that be wrong???


I'm still looking for bar ends. Doesn't seem to be much I can do much with the one piece stem anyway.

I got my spoke wrench today and did a pretty good job of straightening my wheels. They aren't prefect but a hell of a lot better then they were. I also got my cassette tool but I'll have to wait on taking the cassette off since I don't have a chain whip.

Since I got the wheels straightened up I was able to set the brakes up, cut the cables and cap them all. Rode around for an hour testing the front brakes and doing stoppies. Still can't do a wheelie. I need to practice on some grass as I'm not too keep on landing on my head while on pavement.  It feels like I'm lifting a tank though.

I don't think I could ever go back to an old seat. I might try getting a Hite-rite. I've seen a few on ebay for $20. Not sure what kind of bar ends I want. I was thinking of some Onza's but they're hard to find in the right shape.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Got another question, since I pulled the head set apart in the other thread I noticed that the brake cable I had installed now has broken away from the cap. I guess I didn't give the cable enough slack when I was setting up the cables. It only gets kinked when the bars are turned 90*. Is this going to be a problem? I have some extra sleeves and caps that I could redo the cable BUT I cut the cable length so I don't have that much length to play around with.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Your cable and housing are too short. You will have issues when making relatively sharp left hand turns, and it looks like you are putting a kink in your housing up near your brake lever. I'd just re-do the whole setup, and save what you have there for another bike (or for a front brake application.)

I always turn the bars completely to each side when installing housing. It's always better to have a little extra just in case you need it. Also, when you re-do the brake cable, feel free to leave a couple extra inches on there and just tuck it under the brake arm, behind the post that holds the tension spring in place.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jtmartino said:


> Your cable and housing are too short. You will have issues when making relatively sharp left hand turns, and it looks like you are putting a kink in your housing up near your brake lever. I'd just re-do the whole setup, and save what you have there for another bike (or for a front brake application.)
> 
> I always turn the bars completely to each side when installing housing. It's always better to have a little extra just in case you need it. Also, when you re-do the brake cable, feel free to leave a couple extra inches on there and just tuck it under the brake arm, behind the post that holds the tension spring in place.


At first I was going to leave more cable but for some reason didn't. :madman: I thought I tested it but I guess I didn't swing it all the way over till the bars hit the frame. I guess I'll get another XTR cable set and save this for a spare.

I left about 1.5-2" of cable off the brake. Didn't think about curling it BUT before I straightened my rims, I had the whole cable coiled up. That was just a few days ago too! :madman:

This is the first time doing this so I've learned something I guess. I'm still in it for less then $200 and I've learned to strip the whole bike down. Well except for the BB which will happen soon enough.

Thanks for your help


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

notthatjeffy said:


> At first I was going to leave more cable but for some reason didn't. :madman: I thought I tested it but I guess I didn't swing it all the way over till the bars hit the frame. I guess I'll get another XTR cable set and save this for a spare.
> 
> I left about 1.5-2" of cable off the brake. Didn't think about curling it BUT before I straightened my rims, I had the whole cable coiled up. That was just a few days ago too! :madman:
> 
> ...


I've done it too...I ended up using the cable and housing to rebuild another bike's front brake.

FWIW, I use generic teflon-coated cables and Jagwire L3 housing that I purchase from Price Point. Cheaper than XTR and about the same performance.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, I put a longer housing on there and it still gets torqued down but not nearly as bad. I was playing around with it and ended up routing the housing around the headset. Seems to keep the housing inline with the brake lever and doesn't cause the cable to pinch itself.

New crank set arrived today as well. I'm not sure when I'll be able to install it though as I don't have any bike specific tools handy. Automotive, yes... Gonna have to get a retaining ring spanner, BB cup and cap tool.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Hey notthatjeffy, what camera are you using? Nice super aperture. Nice bike by the way


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

*Stuff*

Heres the bike your F-derailer came from!! Having fun learning camera.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

hatake said:


> Hey notthatjeffy, what camera are you using? Nice super aperture. Nice bike by the way


I'm using a Nikon D80. I have two lenses although I think I've only used my Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G prime. That's why the bokeh islooks nice. I'm shooting in the evening for the most part, in shade and using natural lighting. I think I'm stopped down to f/1.8-2.8 most of the time. ISO's probably 100-400. The only thing I don't like is the color gets washed out when I convert the RAW to jpg. I've got to manually bump up the contrast before converting them so they don't look so bad. The other problem is trying to figure out how to bring the camera for some trail pics. 



jimbowho said:


> Heres the bike your F-derailer came from!! Having fun learning camera.


Ah, cool! 1991 Comp? The derailleur and shifter works great. Swapped your brakes to match your bike huh? Seems popular with the bikers(motorcycle)

I've actually pulled my bike apart yet again so I can replace the BB and install the new crank. Then all that's left is to get some new wheels and it will be done. Well, until I can figure out what else I want to change.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Yep my F-brakes must be on the right! Found my original owners manual. It was printed in 1990. Thought it might be a 90. Maybe not? I rode the piss out of it for years, sold it to my friend ten years ago. We hooked up again! I asked about the bike, and was shocked he still had it. Gave him 100 and bought it back. I went thru it. 1x7nd it and ride the hell out of it again, Rok-shok post and all. I sold it with a marzoooochi fork, And he even kept the rigid fork I gave him. I was stoked. I ride this all the time and love it. 
I have a new bike but still grab betsy sometimes. It truly rides well. I am guessing it weighs 25-28ish, just from feel. It has a lot of flex! I feel it when trying to make a hill standing on the bar ends. It will never be sold again. Unless I get offered maybe 1500 while drinking beer!!!!

I bought the bike after tacoing a late 80's Rockhopper. My wife flipped the bill. Good Woman.

Have you removed the weathered spoke protector yet? It pains me to look at it!!!!!

Can someone chime in and ink what year my Gray-primer Comp is? It's a 90 or 91. Hope it's a 90, Just askin.


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## cegrover (Oct 17, 2004)

I had a Rockhopper Comp in the same paint scheme, and it was a 1991. Did the bike come with Rapidfire shifters? I believe that would put it at 1991 model year, as Rapidfire came out in 1990 (calendar year).


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

My Stumpjumper Comp was a Thumb shifter out of the box.


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## cegrover (Oct 17, 2004)

MOMBAT seems to confirm it is a 1991 (thumbies and all):

http://www.mombat.org/Specialized_Specs.htm


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

cobba said:


> Might be a 1987 model in the 'Olympic Blue' color.
> 
> edit. the 1990 Rockhopper Sport was the same color as your bike, *I think the 87 model had the rear brake mounted on the chainstay*.
> 
> .


Yup, I have one - the bike is a midnight/navy blue

I had an idea to squeeze a 700 in the rear-end and then I might be able to use 'V's" (the bosses are for U-brake), but they'd've been in the way of the cranks/ring - I already had to modify (shave) the current arms to get a good chain-line


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

cegrover said:


> MOMBAT seems to confirm it is a 1991 (thumbies and all):
> 
> http://www.mombat.org/Specialized_Specs.htm


Thanks for the info! That settles it, 91-Matte gray. It's too new for a Klunker, I better just keep runnin it.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

So, here's an update. I finally got the tools to take apart the crank and BB. Amazing how easy it is with the proper tools!  Now I have a bunch of tools I'll never use again! 

So I pull the cranks arms off and start taking apart the BB which wasn't a big deal. Now when I got to installing the new external BB, I did run into a little bit of an issue. Turns out there is a hole in the BB where the guide for the bottom pull cables are mounted. The screws too large and would dig into the inner cover. I think I can fix that by cutting the screw in half then reinserting it. It just holds the plastic guide in place anyway. Seems to be fine even without the screw.


























Installing the BB was pretty simple with the wrench. Found the instructions online for the new crank set although other then the torque specs, it was straight forward even without instructions.

Tapped in the crank and then put the other arm on.


























Still no chain whip so you gotta just ignore the chain guard if it bugs you.  I'm still waiting on a new cable to redo the rear brake. Took a spin on it anyway. Have to get used to not having the BioPace anymore but there are no more creeks or another other noises coming from the BB. :thumbsup:

Next up will be some new wheels, I think. I'm hoping to maybe get some Mavic 719's with some 6-bolt Shimano XT's. not sure if I should go all black or just go silver and gray since it's cheaper.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Did that BB change your chain line??


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> Did that BB change your chain line??


I think it did a little. I'm pretty sure I have it installed correctly. I had to unscrew the High a bit and lower the Low a bit.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

notthatjeffy said:


> Next up will be some new wheels, I think. I'm hoping to maybe get some Mavic 719's with some 6-bolt Shimano XT's. not sure if I should go all black or just go silver and gray since it's cheaper.


Mavic 719s? 6-bolt Shimano XTs? You gonna run discs on your bike?


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jtmartino said:


> Mavic 719s? 6-bolt Shimano XTs? You gonna run discs on your bike?


Nope, no discs but I haven't been able to find 719's without the disc hubs. Haven't seen anyone with a HB-M770 hub and Mavic 719 rim.

I was looking at these: http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=107


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

your wheels would cost more than your whole bike. what's the rear spacing on your hard rock?


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

I think he's way past the point of upgrades being worth more than the bike itself...

notthatjeffy, you think about used wheels? And if you're going to buy new, why not something like this?

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH281A00-Shimano+Xt+Discrhyno+Lite+Wheelset.aspx


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, I don't mine that the parts are worth more the the bike. I knew that well before getting into it. It's not a big deal either. Wheel spacing is 135mm. Still haven't decided on what wheels I'll go with. But those Sun Rhyno Lite's don't look bad. How are their rims? Looks like I'd have to ream the valve hole for a Schrader.

Oh the other front, I'm having some minor issues with the new crank and getting the chain all lined up. It looks like the new crank set is probably a few mm's outboard. This causes some binding when going from one extreme to the other. It also seems to be compounded by the rear derailleur's alignment with the chain stay instead of running parallel with the ring gears. You can see in the picture below the derailleur gear is riding close to the edge of the chain. It sometimes gets caught up on the links.










On the other end of the spectrum it seems running a 22T instead of a 28T causes some issues of their own. The derailleur is all the way up and the chain is hitting the derailleur cage.










This there a fix for either of these issues? Is this a derailleur issue, a crank issue or both?

Thanks.


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## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

Jeffy, c'mon buddy. You should never have the chain crossed up like that.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jtmartino said:


> Jeffy, c'mon buddy. You should never have the chain crossed up like that.


I was checking the chain length at the time.:thumbsup:

I took some measurements and it looked like my middle ring was something like 55mm from the centerline. I shimmed it and it's now within 47.5-50mm. After further investigating I think the derailleur cage has a slight twist to it. Even if I run granny on the large ring the gear chatters. Gonna take the derailleur off and check the chain length again as well as see if I can straighten the cage.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

So, I took apart the derailleur and straightened the cage. It no longer chatters now, which is good. I never took the derailleur apart so it was still pretty gunky. Had to clean the bushings as they were sticky. I hate WD40.

I checked the chain and I think it's probably one-two links too long. That's with the chain crossed up and adding 2-links. It looks like it won't be a problem unless I cross up the gears which I don't usually do.  I'll probably fix it when/if I get a new chain. That means getting another tool that I'll only use once.  

I've still have to tweak the cable for the derailleur a bit more as I'm not getting complete shifts when the shifter indexes but that's a pretty minor complaint. I was also able to hook up the rear brakes again. The Dremel makes nice cuts compared to diagonal cutters.

Since the money issue came up I guess I'll elaborate on it. The money isn't really an issue. Yes, it's an old bike and yes, I'm spending what seems like a lot on it but then I'm getting a decent bike out of it. At least one that's more then a commuter. I'm also learning a lot about bikes and how to fix them. I do like working on it as much as riding it as well. I'd probably have no problems building a bike up from the bare frame now. Not including tools, I'm probably just shy of $300 right now. The bike was paid for a long time ago. I think it was around $300 back then. Don't have the heart to sell it so I'll keep riding it. :thumbsup: I have had a few older roadies do double takes.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

notthatjeffy said:


> I'm also learning a lot about bikes and how to fix them. I do like working on it as much as riding it as well. I'd probably have no problems building a bike up from the bare frame now.


Yeah, that's the cool part of your process. Seems like you've learned a lot. Its been fun to watch. Thanks!


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

You should also look at adjusting the B-screw, which determines the angle of the derailleur body. It lets you adjust the angle so that the jockey pulley doesn't touch the biggest sprocket in the position you're showing.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

ong said:


> You should also look at adjusting the B-screw, which determines the angle of the derailleur body. It lets you adjust the angle so that the jockey pulley doesn't touch the biggest sprocket in the position you're showing.


I think the screw is all the way in which means my chain is too long.  The small ring gear dropped from 28T to 22T and the large ring went from 48T to 44T.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Well, it's been a while and I haven't updated the thread. I have made some progress. I ended up buying some used Mavic 117's on Deore hubs for $60. Then winter came and halted all progress. Spring is here so I'm able to wrench on the bike again. Or at least partially.










The Mavic's were a bit of a pain to get the tires on since they were narrower. Tough getting the schrader valve through the rim without it pulling back. Got the front together though. I'll have to wait a little while for the rear as I still need to get a chain whip. The new wheel is a huge improvement over the old one. It feels stronger and the best part, the rim runs true! I'll still have to swap the magnet tone ring for the Avocet. I'm not sure if it will clip on as the Deore hub looks a bit larger.










BTW: I still have all of the original parts in a box. They aren't going to be thrown out.


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## Revolution Bicycles (Jan 28, 2011)

This is an early Rockhopper 1988. The decals were yellow with some splash graphics. Most of the bike is original there were a few things missing when I got it.*

Components are.... 
Shimano Deore 6 speed through out.
Seat was a Titec Berserkr replaced with a Sella Itailia Turbo
Rear wheel Saturae GX28 Deore Hub
Front wheel inexpensive Araya
Pedals replaced with rounded Suntour XC-1 bear traps (previous pedals weren't original)
Brake Lever BL-MT60
Deore brakes with BR-MT61,U brake with Shark Tooth anti-jam device
Headset Tange Sekie 
Handlebar Specialized maybe the stem?
Seat post wasn't stock replaced with a kalloy
Shimano Biopace chainrings


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## Linoleum (Aug 25, 2008)

Revolution Bicycles said:


> This is an early Rockhopper 1988. The decals were yellow with some splash graphics. Most of the bike is original there were a few things missing when I got it.*
> 
> Components are....
> Shimano Deore 6 speed through out.
> ...


Ahhhhhh, that was my first mountain bike right there.... right down to the removed decals. That thing fit me like a glove!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Nice '88. I always liked the two-tone paint scheme.

I finally bought a chain whip and took the cassette off so all of you who didn't like the chain guard can celebrate. It's gone.  Or more precisely has not been transferred to the new wheel. I also realized that the tubes have to have no air in them or else it makes getting the tire on a PITA. I had a little in the front I think which made it more difficult as the rim is much narrower and the bead probably wasn't able to drop down far enough.

Reseated the front tire while I was at it since the tire had some wobble. Got the brakes set up pretty good too. They work a lot better on the Mavic's with the milled rim surface then the smooth Araya's I had. I still need to buy a head set wrench to tighten it down. It backs out if I do some aggressive braking. Have to readjust the rear derailleur a little too. Bought the 4mm spacer from Buildyourbike on ebay. Still not sure if I'll add bar ends of not. Other then that though, I think it's done and just needs some dry weather to start riding again.

Here's a recap of what's been done;


Shimano Deore XT Thumb Shifter
Shimano Deore XT Front Derailleur
Shimano Deore LX FC-M582 Crankset
Shimano XTR Front and Rear Brake Cables
Shimano Deore Hubs
Mavic 117 Wheels
Continental 2.3 Gravity Tyres
Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers
Avid Single Digit 7 Brakes
WTB Speed V Comp Saddle
SCRAM Locking Grips
Wellgo MG-1 Pedals

Tool's purchased:


Park Tool SW-42 Spoke Wrench
Park Tool FR-5G Cassette Lock ring tool with guide pin
Park Tool BBT-9 Bottom Bracket Wrench
Park Tool Compact Crank Puller
Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner
Park Tool SR-1 Sprocket Remover

Thank you to all those who have helped answer my noob questions. It's been a fun project and I think it was well worth the effort. Not to mention it was cheap. If I had to do it over again, I think I would. I haven't really thought about getting another bike. I don't think I have to anymore. :thumbsup:


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## Linoleum (Aug 25, 2008)

Looks great man!


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## shaddow44 (May 7, 2010)

Project is tightening up really nicely. Really makes me miss my '88 Rockhopper Comp. Had to let er go for lack of room and now cant get it back from the guy I sold it to.

Completely upgraded bike the only thing original was the frame, but the parts I hung on 'er were choice at the time and it rode like a dream.

Good looking bike!


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## Revolution Bicycles (Jan 28, 2011)

I bought this bike about two years ago. I was stoked I have been looking for an older mtb for some time. When I went to Colorado I tried but no luck.
My plans are to strip and re-paint the frame and find a matching front wheel or a wheelset that is era correct.

Over the years I had many bikes and parts. Kept upgrading for latest but now I wanted back an early mtb like the one I had back in 1990 a Cannondale SM400. I started mountain biking racing around that time. The Rockhopper brings back great memories of those days. Nothing beats riding a modern mtb on dirt but these older bikes make for classic cruisers. I've ridden the Rockhopper on dirt a few times wow I have gotten soft.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

My main goal was to incorporated some modern amenities that would make the bike safer and perform better while still keeping it 'old school'. Oh and learn a thing or two about bikes in the process. I have no plans on repainting or fixing any chips or dings. It adds character. And as much as I liked the original bike, I like what it has evolved into much more as I'm still able to ride it the way I want to. It rides great, BTW.


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

Notthatt. Been following your progress! Looks good. 

I will ship you a Hite-rite if you loose the Pink bottle cage!


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

jimbowho said:


> Notthatt. Been following your progress! Looks good.
> 
> I will ship you a Hite-rite if you loose the Pink bottle cage!


First it was the chain guard now you're picking on my bottle cage! rft:

Maybe I'll just repaint it. It did at one time match the sticker. At least I think it did. Maybe I was color blind but just for that instance... :skep:


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## jimbowho (Dec 16, 2009)

I stared at it for a while and it grew on me. Now I like it. "Retro"

I can't believe you didn't raz me on my horn zipped tied
to my bars. I stole it off the Queen-Mary.

Will wait for the ride report. Keep at it.


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

My first bike was a 91 Rockhopper (White with blue graphics). I replaced every single item on the bike!!!!!! Great ride though.

Looks good.


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## Compressor76 (Sep 28, 2009)

*Specialized Rockhopper Sport - Retro..from 199..?*

Hello,
I've just bought this bike.I think the guy did not know what was he sold...It was 20.000 HUF (it's cca. 100 dollars) Whas it a good deal?
It looks great,It's in perfect condition(just a few paint scratches) .I think everything is original(except the tires).All Shimano Exage 500 LX set,Specialized rims,handlebar,Tange steering system. As I see it has run max. 2.000 kilometers.
Now it's in pieces,cleaning,re-greasing everything,change cables,brake pads,tires,etc
Can anyone tell me the age of this bike?I think it's from 1992 or 1993...but I'm not sure.I don't want to sell it(it's too good) but what is the real value of this bike?
Sorry for linking, but the file sizes are too big....
Thanks!


__
https://flic.kr/p/5478087157


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## El Sapo Rojo (Feb 24, 2011)

I started a rehab on my 88 rockhopper comp ($125 from CL) but stopped when the cost of the parts I wanted went over my budget >$200. And, that was just basic stuff at wholsale price. Stem, handlebars, grips, tires, chain,

Isn't it better to just buy another bike? I'm thinking that I can get a newer bike with the upgraded components and swap stuff out. What do you guys do?


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## El Sapo Rojo (Feb 24, 2011)

This is the exact bike I'm working on. I'm going to change out the stem and handlebars. I had been looking at all nitto stuff, but couldn't rationalize the $$$ So I just bought a stem and handlebar off ebay for <$20 w/shipping. I'll get a setback seatpost and a new saddle next. The bike is perfectly sized for me right now, but I think the setback seat post will give the bike a more relaxed feel.

My goal is to make it a more comfortable road bike w/o taking away from the original look of the bike. Changes to the bike, but they won't jump out.



Revolution Bicycles said:


> This is an early Rockhopper 1988. The decals were yellow with some splash graphics. Most of the bike is original there were a few things missing when I got it.*
> 
> Components are....
> Shimano Deore 6 speed through out.
> ...


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

Compressor76 said:


> Hello,
> I've just bought this bike.I think the guy did not know what was he sold...It was 20.000 HUF (it's cca. 100 dollars) Whas it a good deal?
> It looks great,It's in perfect condition(just a few paint scratches) .I think everything is original(except the tires).All Shimano Exage 500 LX set,Specialized rims,handlebar,Tange steering system. As I see it has run max. 2.000 kilometers.
> Now it's in pieces,cleaning,re-greasing everything,change cables,brake pads,tires,etc
> ...


You can see the 1992 and 1993 Specialized Catalogs here: http://80.82.124.71/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=15578 Wish the scans were better but I think it's a 1992 as the color was Purple. For 1993 the color changed to a Metallic Purple. $100USD doesn't seem like bad deal. I've seen worse for that price. When they were new the Sport was just under $300USD, IIRC.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

El Sapo Rojo said:


> This is the exact bike I'm working on. I'm going to change out the stem and handlebars. I had been looking at all nitto stuff, but couldn't rationalize the $$$ So I just bought a stem and handlebar off ebay for <$20 w/shipping. I'll get a setback seatpost and a new saddle next. The bike is perfectly sized for me right now, but I think the setback seat post will give the bike a more relaxed feel.
> 
> My goal is to make it a more comfortable road bike w/o taking away from the original look of the bike. Changes to the bike, but they won't jump out.


Is it worth it? No not really. If you're looking for a cheap bike then get a more modern bike. I think most people here are just nostalgic for the older bikes. If you want to save money then don't upgrade it. Replace what needs replacing and then ride it.


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## El Sapo Rojo (Feb 24, 2011)

I prefer the non suspension mountain bikes. It's cool to see that the bikes I had in the 80's are still valuable/desireable today. I guess I'm fishing around to see if there is a "correct" way to do things to an old bike to best maintain it's value. I think about the rusty/well used condition of my rockhopper, but damn it looked mint in a picture on CL. It still has the stickers but they are faded and roughed up.

Better to let it look used or would you repaint?

Hey, nice job on your bike Jeffy


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

El Sapo Rojo said:


> I prefer the non suspension mountain bikes. It's cool to see that the bikes I had in the 80's are still valuable/desireable today. I guess I'm fishing around to see if there is a "correct" way to do things to an old bike to best maintain it's value. I think about the rusty/well used condition of my rockhopper, but damn it looked mint in a picture on CL. It still has the stickers but they are faded and roughed up.
> 
> Better to let it look used or would you repaint?
> 
> Hey, nice job on your bike Jeffy


Thanks! I don't think the Rockhopper is rare nor unique enough to say one way or another. If that's it in the pic wouldn't touch it. Clean it up. That's what I'd do at least.


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

*Too funny*



notthatjeffy said:


> Oh and I found my Cyclometer!
> 
> Booooo, can't quote image until I reach 10 posts....
> 
> ...


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

*Old Catalogues*

PS - There are old catalogues on Retro Bike dot Co dot Uk, nice seeing the Specialized range from late 80s / early 90s, the material is very cool in its own right (some of it is in German thou).


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

oorrab said:


> notthatjeffy said:
> 
> 
> > Oh and I found my Cyclometer!
> ...


Not wanting to get off-topic, but not only did I find my Cyclometer 30 when I popped the back off to get a replacement button-cell I find I left it in there backwards - flipped it around and bingo, ~20 year old computer that has been in a toolbox for ~15 years springs back into life! Whoo hoo! I'll get a new battery anyway as I'd be p*ssed if it leaked or something after all this time....

PS - I swear this will be on-topic soon. I loved reading this thread!


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

*Name that frame*

Purists may not be happy, but I've owned this baby since new and it has evolved over the years - rebuild time!










BB, headset and seat bolt back in. New stainless cage bolts.










X-lite seat bolt anodizing had faded / gone funky so resprayed black and replaced bolt.










The Cyclometer 30 has to go on, but don't want a messy cable up the fork, answer, internal cable routing! (Yes, running the cable was fun )


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## Funrover (Oct 4, 2006)

Looks great!


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

oorrab said:


> Purists may not be happy, but I've owned this baby since new and it has evolved over the years - rebuild time!


"name that frame'' - I'm stumped :madman:

Looks like you're gonna have one pretty ride!:thumbsup:


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

highdelll said:


> "name that frame'' - I'm stumped :madman:
> 
> Looks like you're gonna have one pretty ride!:thumbsup:


The clue is in the tread and the rear brake cable hanger on the seat stays  The other cable bosses were a modification long ago, brazed them on at school when I was 15 - wasn't aware of the effects of heat on steel back then but appears not to have been a problem. Thanks to Dave Yates (a UK frame builder) for selling the bosses to me, I wondered why he seemed so confused at the time!


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

*Cyclometer 30 is on*

Completed the Avocet install, hoping chafe shouldn't be too much of a problem as everything moves together.

From the bar, cable goes into the underside of the stem;


















Then through stem, down head tube, down fork and out near the drop out;









Sealed the join at the sensor with hot glue (no room for heatshrink!);









Result, not much external cable!









Not much left on the rebuild, rear brake, trim bar / grips - will post pics when done.


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

*Before/During/After*

Two years by the water was bad....









Primer;









Colour;









Pedal-cage;









Colour-coded canti-yoke (?!);









The finished article, my beloved 1990 Rockhopper! Frame, fork and seatpost are original, most other bits from the 90's. XT mechs/cranks, DX hubs/brakes, LX shifters/headset. Mavic 261CDs, Club Roost I-Beam stem and 3TTT bar. Trusty Avocet30 computer with internally routed cable. New seat and bargrips for this build.


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## stephens (Mar 18, 2009)

Looking good man! And you just solved a mystery for me: I've got that same sensor ring on the front xt hub on my old trek - but don't have the part for the fork or the wiring or the computer. But it's nice to know what it came from.


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## oorrab (May 27, 2012)

stephens said:


> Looking good man! And you just solved a mystery for me: I've got that same sensor ring on the front xt hub on my old trek - but don't have the part for the fork or the wiring or the computer. But it's nice to know what it came from.


Somebody somewhere wondering why their speedo stopped working 

Avocet parts are here https://secure38.securewebsession.com/////avocet.com/secureorder/ordersecure.html (linked off Avocet Site Directory). Not sure if 'out of stock' really means 'no longer made' though. Probably better to hit ebay, or if not bothered by vintage, something more current  Maybe you can sell the sensor on ebay


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

notthatjeffy said:


> Is it worth it? No not really. If you're looking for a cheap bike then get a more modern bike. I think most people here are just nostalgic for the older bikes. If you want to save money then don't upgrade it. Replace what needs replacing and then ride it.


+1 on nostalgia. I was thinking about getting rid of some framesets and extra parts. After making a careful inspection I decided I needed a bigger garage.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

El Sapo Rojo said:


> I started a rehab on my 88 rockhopper comp ($125 from CL) but stopped when the cost of the parts I wanted went over my budget >$200. And, that was just basic stuff at wholsale price. Stem, handlebars, grips, tires, chain,
> 
> Isn't it better to just buy another bike? I'm thinking that I can get a newer bike with the upgraded components and swap stuff out. What do you guys do?


My father was stamp and coin collector. He always said "you can't a remuneration on your hobby." That means you can't look at it like a business. You're going to loose money on it. Buy it because you LOVE it not to turn a buck. Good luck.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Bumping an old topic. I've been trying to figure out what model year my Rockhopper is. It has the Exage 400LX components (derailleurs, cranks, etc.). For some reason, I thought the serial number (CY952211) meant that it was a "95". But looks like from bikepedia and the OP's bike, it's probably a 90.

Mine is pretty hashed. Only the rear derailleur (barely) works. Rest of the shifting mech. and front brake are gone (missing or not working). I think I will just take the most cost efficient approach and go singlespeed. It has the semi-horizontal dropouts, so setting that up should be fairly easy. Then all I need is a set of canti brakes.


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## notthatjeffy (Sep 26, 2010)

phsycle said:


> Bumping an old topic. I've been trying to figure out what model year my Rockhopper is. It has the Exage 400LX components (derailleurs, cranks, etc.). For some reason, I thought the serial number (CY952211) meant that it was a "95". But looks like from bikepedia and the OP's bike, it's probably a 90.
> 
> Mine is pretty hashed. Only the rear derailleur (barely) works. Rest of the shifting mech. and front brake are gone (missing or not working). I think I will just take the most cost efficient approach and go singlespeed. It has the semi-horizontal dropouts, so setting that up should be fairly easy. Then all I need is a set of canti brakes.


I'd toss the Exage brakes and go with Avid. The stock Exage levers and canti's flex too much. The stock brakes always felt spongy.

I haven't done anything else with my bike. Maybe if I find some time I'll go SS. I have no regrets though.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Actually, the front calipers and lever are missing, so I will have to remove the rear brake. I've got some Shimano LX's that I'll be putting on there. I have some v-brakes as well, but the canti's just look more "right" on this bike. With Kool Stop Salmon pads, they're actually not that bad. I've got a Scott AT3 bar that I might put on there as well.


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## saltwater taco (Mar 23, 2012)

Thought I'd share my 89 hopper. Pic is a few months old. Currently it has a nevegal 2.35 front tire, a rear v-brake, 32-16 freehub gearing, and platform pedals. Took her for a spin on the trails today for the first time in a few months (5th or 6th time ever). Its a blast to ride! Its tough getting used to the low bottom bracket though. Had one major crash from it. My 29er makes the trails too easy and I'm almost done with upgrades on it, so I guess its time for a few upgrades on the hopper. I don't want to make it too easy to ride, but I'm thinking at least a riser bar or era correct stem with some rise, though that would probably mean new handlebar as well. Some good canti's would be cool too. Those origin 8 v-brakes suck. Any suggestions?

Rockhopper (2) by saltwatertaco, on Flickr


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Hmmm....XT cantis work good with kool stop pads and more fitting for that bike. My favorite cantis are probably the m900s though.

p.s. I like your screen name.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

saltwater taco said:


> Thought I'd share my 89 hopper. Pic is a few months old. Currently it has a nevegal 2.35 front tire, a rear v-brake, 32-16 freehub gearing, and platform pedals. Took her for a spin on the trails today for the first time in a few months (5th or 6th time ever). Its a blast to ride! Its tough getting used to the low bottom bracket though. Had one major crash from it. My 29er makes the trails too easy and I'm almost done with upgrades on it, so I guess its time for a few upgrades on the hopper. I don't want to make it too easy to ride, but I'm thinking at least a riser bar or era correct stem with some rise, though that would probably mean new handlebar as well. Some good canti's would be cool too. Those origin 8 v-brakes suck. Any suggestions?


That is my favorite RH color scheme. Almost bought a Hardrock a few years ago with a similar color. IMO, some purple canti's would be awesome. (Didn't Dia Comp or Onza make some?)


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

He wanted good cantis.


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## saltwater taco (Mar 23, 2012)

When I said good cantis, I meant cheap too, haha. I can't believe how expensive some of those things are! I guess the difference in cost is for weight, stiffness, quality? They just seem too small to weigh much or flex much. I guess I should clarify that my current brakes have enough stopping power, but they flex, don't stay adjusted and just seem cheap...which they are. I guess I should expect the same from cheap cantis. Maybe I'll look for some vintage take-offs instead. Purple would look good though.

I wanted to repaint the frame when I first bought it, but I'm glad I didn't now. It helps me explore my whimsical/goofy side. It gets more complements than teasing.


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## sprale (Jul 17, 2013)

*Another Old Rockhopper*

I picked up an older Rockhopper a couple of years ago. I always wanted one when I was in high school, and the Schwinn I used to ride didn't do well with living in the salty air of Florida, so I swapped it out for a cruiser and started looking for a Specialized. Craigslist delivered this gem in good shape, and I've only done a few changes like the pedals, tires, seat, and grips so far. I don't ride trails hard anymore (I'm old and worn), so I'm setting it up for the road. I never really liked the position of road bikes, so I'll probably put some smoother rubber on it since I've only been using it to do morning runs after weights. I just work too far to use it to commute, but I did that for years on my older mtb.









Also, anyone know what year this Hopper might be?


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

*My old Rockhopper purchased new in the mid '80s*

Good afternoon,

I pulled my old Rockhopper out of storage this past weekend to ride with my gf. I bought her a Myka a week ago and it will be her first bike in a very long time. I prefer my full suspension bikes at my age because they are much easier on my back. But I will start out with gf on asphalt trails so she can build up the confidence and strength before leading her into the woods. So the Rockhopper will be fine for me around the neighborhood trails.

My Rockhopper was in a storage unit and some ass**** broke into it and stole some tools and the front wheel off my bike. My bike is still in very good condition but it needs to be cleaned up and lubed after collecting dust for many years.

I found a couple of oem hubs that will be here shortly. I would like to keep my bike as original as possible but I will have to have some wheels built. I plan to use some inexpensive Alex DM24 rims since I am a heavy weight at 220lb. I would like to order some spokes but I have never learned how to calculate the length accurately. If anyone can tell me which spokes to order for the Specialized Allez 36 hubs and the DM24 rims I would be very thankful. The rims have a ERD of 547mm.

I would also like to purchase the correct tools to dis-assemble the bike, ie, fork, crank, hubs, and freewheel to clean and re-lube everything. I would appreciate any help if you can identify the correct Park Tools I will need.

I always wanted to put a 'taller' cassette or freewheel on the bike to gear it higher. Is there a source for a 5-speed freewheel with a 12-26 gearing or something close to that?

Thanks,
JP

BTW, the first thing I did after buying the bike new was removing the stick-on decals, lol!


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

I just determined that I need the Park Tool TL-FW30 Freewheel remover to disassemble the rear hub.

Now I need to figure out tools to remove square crank.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

jdp526 said:


> Now I need to figure out tools to remove square crank.


Something like this will definitely do the job
Bikeman Park Tool CWP-7C Universal Crank Puller










they should have this at your LBS - Park Tool CWP-7C

the threaded portion you see gets threaded into your crank, and then you hold the 1st hex (to the left) solid w/ a wrench, while you turn the 2nd
(the protrusion on the left presses against the spindle - the tool pictured is just about fully extended - you'd start with the 'protrusion' inside of the threaded area)


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

Thanks for the help, highdelll! I put the square crank removal tool on my 'wish list' but this one you identified would be more useful since it works for both the square taper and splined cranks.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

jdp526 said:


> Good afternoon,
> 
> I pulled my old Rockhopper out of storage this past weekend to ride with my gf. I bought her a Myka a week ago and it will be her first bike in a very long time. I prefer my full suspension bikes at my age because they are much easier on my back. But I will start out with gf on asphalt trails so she can build up the confidence and strength before leading her into the woods. So the Rockhopper will be fine for me around the neighborhood trails.
> 
> ...


That's a Stumpjumper. Rockhopper never had lugged frames or black paint in the friction era. BTW, that looks like an 85 or 86. The larger frames had rear cantilever rear brakes instead of rollercam. I have an 86 Sport in orange with a rollercam. It isn't as nice as your Stumpy.


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

CS2, thanks for the info! Getting too old to remember details. But I would have sworn it was a Rockhopper. I bought it from a small shop that is still in business down here so I may go by there one day and show it to him. I thought I bought it a year or two earlier but I may be mistaken.


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## jdp526 (Apr 21, 2006)

I pulled the bottom bracket out of my '85 and there is a small amount of wear of bearing race on one side of the spindle. The BB is a 68x120 that is stamped on the spindle. Apparently, this isn't a common size now. I thought I would replace BB with a sealed bearing unit but it looks like 118 and 122 lengths are more common. Any recommendation one one to use? Thanks,

PS Do you guys recommend polishing crank arms? If so, what process do you use?


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## DirtyHun (Jan 9, 2011)

Thread necromancy at work!

I'm about to buy an old Rock Hopper to use for commuting. This thread was awesome, but the sudden ending left me sad.


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## El Sapo Rojo (Feb 24, 2011)

I need to put the "after pic" up for my blue and white RockHopper Comp.

$125 bike
$100 labor
$150 powdercoat
$75-100 parts

Sold it for $250. So yea, this thread makes me sad LOL


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