# Rave: Solution to Crappy Cable Ends



## fastale (Jul 2, 2007)

I remember seeing on this site at one point, someone suggested using a heat shrink tube instead of those stupid pinch style cable end caps. I cannot remember who used them, but would like to thank the person that recommended them. Maybe everyone knows this already, but I thought I would post it in case you don't.

I bought like 20 inches worth of electricians heat shrink for $3.50 and considering 1/4" of it is all you need at a time, it's going to last a while. Just place around the end of the cable, put a lighter under it for a second and no more frayed cables.


----------



## chucko58 (Aug 4, 2006)

They're not the most secure solution in the world - I usually double them up, and they still come off with finger tension. But they're definitely lighter and easier than the crimp style caps.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

I don't know if it was one of my posts that steered you down this path, but I love it.

I use two sizes, 1/16" for derailleur cable and 3/32" for brake cables.

I've been using this for a long, long time, and have never had a problem the heat shrink breaking free or otherwise falling off. It's true, it comes off with a firm tug, but I've always had pristine cable left behind. Very tidy.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130064










BTW, I picked up a Micro-Therm butane heat gun at Fry's for about $15. It's more convenient than plugging in the heat gun, and stores easily in the tool chest. Makes re-cabling at a friend's house, the campsite, or the trailhead a cinch.


----------



## fastale (Jul 2, 2007)

Speedub.Nate said:


> I don't know if it was one of my posts that steered you down this path, but I love it.
> 
> I use two sizes, 1/16" for derailleur cable and 3/32" for brake cables.
> 
> ...


Nate, It was you! I remember now from the MkIII build thread (great resource, thanks) and from the clear tubes.

I was actually surprised at how well the tube stayed put on the cable. Yes, it does come off, but that is only with a pretty hard pull. And like Nate said, it leaves the cable very tidy, making handling the used cable less dangerous and a lot more likely to be able to re-use. Thanks again Nate, keep up the good work!:thumbsup:


----------



## nepbug (Sep 3, 2004)

I do that as well, with a little twist.

I put it on, shrink it, cut off the end(with a little cable too) then I put some superglue on the end. The superglue came after I lost an end once, problem solved.

So much cleaner than a crimp cap.


----------



## Knuckles (Nov 25, 2004)

I solder mine - old school style. You can pull the cables and put them back w/o any worry about frayed ends.

Just a dab....not too much.


----------



## 1996cc (Mar 29, 2008)

Knuckles said:


> I solder mine - old school style. You can pull the cables and put them back w/o any worry about frayed ends.
> 
> Just a dab....not too much.


That sounds like the best idea.


----------



## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Knuckles said:


> I solder mine - old school style.


Been soldering cable ends for years. It works a treat.


----------



## 01Forester (Feb 5, 2007)

Yep soldering is by far the easiest/best method.


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

I can never get the solder to stick the the stainless cable- even with flux. stainless and solder don't seem to like working for me.


----------



## 2melow (Jan 5, 2004)

crazy glue works great too, plus it's super fast.


----------



## Dave In Florida (Apr 4, 2007)

You probably need to get it hotter. Stainless is very dense material. It needs alot of heat to get it hot. When I weld stainless, I really have to crank up the heat to get it to stick.


----------



## jhitch (Mar 28, 2008)

I tried soldering once but couldn't get it to stick either. I am sure it was hot enough (I was using a little butane torch and the cable was red hot) ...hmmm, maybe too hot? Anyway if there are any specific tips on how to get this to work I really like the idea.


----------



## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

jhitch said:


> I tried soldering once but couldn't get it to stick either. I am sure it was hot enough (I was using a little butane torch and the cable was red hot) ...hmmm, maybe too hot? Anyway if there are any specific tips on how to get this to work I really like the idea.


RED hot? That's way too hot. It will burn the flux off and then you're screwed. I've soldered cables for years with no problems - I use a normal soldering gun - a Weller 100/140watt -










And I use regular plumbing solder and paste flux that I use for my copper water pipes. Flux is your friend!


----------



## nnn (Feb 1, 2005)

Been sodlering for a few months now and it's so much better than crimps which break, need to re replaced etc etc
I also avoid Teflon coated cables as solder is impossible to stick to them, but normal steel cables are fine and you can pull them out and push them through ferrules as good as new !


----------



## Toff (Sep 11, 2004)

Where do you get the heat shrink tubing at in bulk?

Home depot electrical department?


----------



## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Toff said:


> Where do you get the heat shrink tubing at in bulk?
> 
> Home depot electrical department?


clickety



.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Got a Fry's nearby? Or other electronics shop. Radio Shack carries pre-cut pieces for too much money, and not in one of the sizes (last I checked).


----------



## Gimpy00Wang (Jan 23, 2006)

2melow said:


> crazy glue works great too, plus it's super fast.


+1 to that. I never seem to be able to find my cable crimps when I need them anyway so I just stopped using them. 

- Chris


----------



## g-bus (Aug 13, 2007)

Anybody try using a little JB Weld? Just curious how it would hold on cables.


----------



## Guest (Aug 8, 2008)

2melow said:


> crazy glue works great too, plus it's super fast.


Use the 'Gel' or 'Thick' type as it leaves a nice clear rounded edge to the end of the cable.

I suspect any epoxy like JB Weld would work, but a pain to mix when you can use super glue (generic cyanoacrylate) gel. I've used both by the gallons repairing RC aircraft.

G.


----------



## Twister (Feb 28, 2006)

What about that liquid solder you paint on and zap with the torch plumbers use for sweating copper tubing?


----------



## ettore (Nov 13, 2004)

Liquid solder is stupid expensive, and goes bad really quick after you open it. Also, needs to be kept refrigerated, so you need to ship it to yourself super speed if you can't find it locally.


----------



## Twister (Feb 28, 2006)

Not that Permatex glue stuff. I'm refering to the paste that comes in a can and you have to hit with a torch to melt it. After it melts it looks just like (actually it IS) a metallically soldered joint My plumber friend uses it all the time. Cheap and easy.

I don't know about shelf life, but I doubt it goes bad too fast. Its an industrial product. He's got cans of it that have been sitting around for ages and its still OK. It doesn't air cure.


----------



## SBK (Oct 18, 2006)

I just use a blob of RTV / silicone gasket maker. Always have some in the garage anyway, works just fine. 

I do like the heat-shrink tubing idea too, never thought of that but I like the idea a lot. I'll try it next time around.


----------



## txn (Oct 4, 2005)

I used JB Weld, and while it works well, it's difficult not to have a lump at the end of your cable. I'll probably have to cut it off the next time I clean my housing. I'll have to try the solder route.


----------



## Tilos (Mar 27, 2008)

*My Wife's out of fashsion Nail Polish*

Yep, asked her once if she had any leftover nail polish she didn't use anymore.

She gave me a ziplock bag full of bottles of assorted colors/shades.

Just remove the cap/brush thing and dip in the cable end right there on the bike.

Too thin?..dip it again.

No heat required!

Not only does it dry fast, but you can remove and rethread the cable to change housing, etc.

Those crimp-on things trash the cable end and make removal/rethreading difficult.

Umm...I counted those bottles once, and multiplied by $5 each....this fix cost me a lot!!

Nail polish...poor man's loctite, cleat screws, etc.

Tilos


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Tilos said:


> ...Yep, asked her once if she had any leftover nail polish she didn't use anymore.


Great! Color coordination galore!


----------

