# Specialized AWOL gravel grinder



## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

Anyone have any more information on the new AWOL gravel grinder?

Frame geometries, weights etc

? THE AWOL

Brian


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## RRRoubaix (Jan 30, 2011)

Very cool.
Seems like Spesh is having a lot of fun w/ bikes lately.

That said, I would think this would overlap a lot w/ the TriCross...


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

RRRoubaix said:


> Very cool.
> Seems like Spesh is having a lot of fun w/ bikes lately.
> 
> That said, I would think this would overlap a lot w/ the TriCross...


Overlap, yes, but there are several important differences which, for me, make the AWOL a much more attractive choice for gravel road riding. Taller headset, lower bottom bracket, better frame material on the Comp model and wider tire capability. Looking forward to seeing the geometry chart for specifics, but this is looking a lot like the bike I thought I was going to need to have built custom.


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## RRRoubaix (Jan 30, 2011)

I agree! I just don't know where the TriCross fits in their lineup now- where is it's niche?

(I'm finding a lot of irony in that I was looking for a gravel/commuter over the last few months and finally last week purchased a Kona Rove... ah well- I have too many Spesh bikes already, I guess...)


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

Here are the geo charts for AWOL










Weights fully equipped with racks seem to be around 32lbs which is slightly disappointing.

Brian


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Really long top tubes and really short stems. Interesting and confusing. Do you know the weight for the Comp frameset?


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

I fell between a medium and large Fargo, and opted for the large at 580mm effective top tube. Feels great for reach but slightly big overall, so a medium AWOL would be good at 575 ETT and 75mm stem I think.


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## TheJohnny (Sep 2, 2009)

Is the frame painted or powder coated?


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

Real world weights appreciated ASAP. Lower 20's # ? Upper 20's #? Heavier/lighter than the Tri Cross? Wheels = brute weight over built dog on climbs , cheap'o heavy or decent?


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

Weight is around 31 lbs.


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## GOTA (Apr 21, 2011)

I can't wait to try one of these. The AWOL is not something I expected from Specialized.


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

This is pretty cool ~

http://wearegoingawol.tumblr.com

Be sure and check out the "archives"


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

TheJohnny said:


> Is the frame painted or powder coated?


Reply from AWOL team is that it is wet painted covered with wet painted satin clear coat in a colour they call Gunmetal. Sounds perfect for the bike.


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## TheJohnny (Sep 2, 2009)

Thank you.


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

Am I missing something or is the gearing quite High for this bike, intended use - adventure tour, bike pack, double track, fire roads, XM, etc.


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

BluesDawg said:


> Really long top tubes and really short stems. Interesting and confusing. Do you know the weight for the Comp frameset?


Seems like a lot of these drop bar adventure bikes are getting with mountain bike sensibilities.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

Any updates? I saw one of these at my LBS, but haven't heard anything about it yet.


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## GTR-33 (Sep 25, 2008)

Just test rode a base model at my LBS and it was pretty nice. Didn't get a chance to weigh it but it was a steel bike with big tires. It came with some Spec branded 42c cross style tire. I rode it around and it was nice and stiff, but definitely a steel bike. I would really like to try the Reynolds steel version though as it didn't have that light bling steel feel. 

The long top tube short stem is the business IMO, but that's how I like my bikes. The bar is short reach with shallow flared drop like a Salsa cowbell. Really nice set-up and honestly too cool to be a Specialized. Only thing that that would make it nicer is having Rival or Ultegra and maybe a tad lighter but that would double the price. R785/Ultegra Cross drivetrain and some carbon wheels with the Reynolds steel frame would be boss. You could also run the Comp model with a belt drive and an internal hub. Alfine Di2 and R785 belt drive would be a interesting set up. I heard there might be a "Specialized Edition" with a belt drive Alfine hub coming. It's got all the typical touring bike mounts for bottles and racks. 

I wanted to see how big a tire would fit and just for giggles I fitted a set of Roval Control carbon 29er wheels with Captain 2.0 tires and it totally fit! That's a 28mm wide rim. Front and back fully fit with clearance and you could probably run a 45c with fenders. I didn't take a picture of it. I didn't have my phone on me, but I'm planning on grabbing a photo sometime this week.


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

If you're wanting something that should ride similarly but not support the big S, check out the Surly Straggler. It's got the same mondo long top tube/short stem drop bar tourer geometry with clearance for 29x2.0 tires front and rear (I've actually put a 2.2 Ikon on the front of mine for added cushion).


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

I _would_ prefer not to support Spec., but the AWOL seems much better suited for bike travel than the Straggler, or the upcoming and very pretty Soma Wolverine. The AWOL's head tube is a good deal taller, and the sloping top tube allows for the kind of seatpost extension you need for the larger bikepacking saddle bags.

If the AWOL rides just like an LHT (reliable but plodding), then it'll be just okay for me. If, on the other hand, it rides more like a Vaya (faster and more fun to pedal), just with proper tire clearance for dirt tours, I'll be all over it.

There seems to be an opening for a 29" disc touring bike with major tire clearance that doesn't ride like a pig, so we'll see if the AWOL is it.


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## sc10pc (Dec 3, 2013)

I have mine on order at my lbs. I absolutely cannot wait for it to be here!! It will make a great bike to throw some 2.2s on and go hit the single track then turn around and ride home!! Ill post some more info about it when it is built up!!


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

albeant said:


> I _would_ on the other hand, it rides more like a Vaya (faster and more fun to pedal), just with proper tire clearance for dirt tours, I'll be all over it.


Why not buy a Vaya in the first place. It's a great bike.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

CS2 said:


> Why not buy a Vaya in the first place. It's a great bike.


It's an option, but being able to run large tires is a plus.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

albeant said:


> It's an option, but being able to run large tires is a plus.


I've seen, but never ridden, a Vaya. How a big a tire fits? I know the Fargo can fit some pretty huge tires.

I guess the question becomes "how big of a tire do you need"? If you need bigger than say, just a guess, a 42C why not get a 29er or a fat bike?


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

I'm seriously considering the AWOL primarily for commuting and winter riding duty, but also as an all-rounder I can take with me on vacations where I don't know if I'll be riding roads, bike paths, or dirt/gravel. Bike paths in my area can be twisty-turny and crowded, thus awkward on a road bike. Torn between the AWOL, the Trek Crossrip, and the Niner RLT -- I know they're different bikes for sure. AWOL in the LBS felt really heavy, like a tank, but I'd be leaning towards the Comp with the better component spec. Not sure if there is much weight savings.

My current "road" bike is a Gunnar Crosshairs cyclocross bike with skinny rubber. When you put wider tires on it and head off-road, you find that for control you need to be in the drops (I'm normally on the hoods like 90% of the time), and that feeling of being so far over the front wheel isn't comfortable at all when it gets steep. The AWOL definitely brings the bars up higher, monster cross style, so that would put me comfortably in the drops.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

BmoreKen said:


> My current "road" bike is a Gunnar Crosshairs cyclocross bike with skinny rubber. When you put wider tires on it and head off-road, you find that for control you need to be in the drops (I'm normally on the hoods like 90% of the time), and that feeling of being so far over the front wheel isn't comfortable at all when it gets steep. The AWOL definitely brings the bars up higher, monster cross style, so that would put me comfortably in the drops.


Anything from Gunnar is going to be lighter the the Specialized. But you can only fit 37C tires if I remember on them. Why not try Salsa Woodchipper bars. They have a shallow drop.


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## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

CS2 said:


> Anything from Gunnar is going to be lighter the the Specialized. But you can only fit 37C tires if I remember on them. Why not try Salsa Woodchipper bars. They have a shallow drop.


My plan is to keep the Gunnar setup as a pure road bike, rather than tweaking the position with a taller stem and different handlebar. Mostly because I can't run fenders without toe overlap. No big deal, it is what it is.

Based on the geometry I should have no problem running fenders on the AWOL. The Crosshairs has 73* HTA, but I'm confident the slacker HTA (72* for AWOL) will give me enough room for the fenders, plus will be more stable on descents.

I probably shouldn't worry about the weight so much, especially for the intended purpose as a commuter/bad weather/gravel/winter/bar hop bike.


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## mstraus (Dec 19, 2013)

I just got an AWOL Comp but haven't put it through the paces yet. I decided to go for comfort and versatility and not worry about weight. This will become my regular commuter as well as some dirt/gravel rides recreationally, and eventually hopefully some touring. 

Any other AWOL owners out there? Curious to hear how others are liking it, what modifications/upgrades they have done, etc.


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## HawkeM (Sep 24, 2012)

I picked up a XL AWOL comp. Haven't gotten much time to ride it but I did get a chance to weigh it. Weights are as received but without reflectors, pedals or plastic plate behind cassette. Wheels are with cassette, quick release, tires, tubes and rotor. 

Full Bike: 26.26lbs / 11.91kg
Front Wheel: 4.08lbs / 1.85kg
Rear Wheel: 5.49lbs / 2.49kg
Seat: 311g
Seatpost: 313g


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

Pics? I would like to see an XL (my size).



HawkeM said:


> I picked up a XL AWOL comp. Haven't gotten much time to ride it but I did get a chance to weigh it. Weights are as received but without reflectors, pedals or plastic plate behind cassette. Wheels are with cassette, quick release, tires, tubes and rotor.
> 
> Full Bike: 26.26lbs / 11.91kg
> Front Wheel: 4.08lbs / 1.85kg
> ...


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Kiwi Awol*

I have just ordered and got a new *Awol*.
I just have to build it up and Name it 
Have changed rear mech to XT (because I had one just laying around at work) and maybe a bar bag etc........

Looking forward to some road riding on back roads how and stay off main roads by riding on some of the Mountain Bike tracks.

Kiwi Pete


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*1st Night ride*

Well i'm loving my new Awol, 1st On/Offroad ride tonight 









Pete


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

Is that a medium or large? How tall are you please. I am 5'10" and can go medium or large but probably medium.

Brian


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

keyhavenpotterer said:


> Is that a medium or large? How tall are you please. I am 5'10" and can go medium or large but probably medium.
> 
> Brian


Hi Brian,
It's a Medium and i'm 5'7".
If I was an 1" shorter I would have got a Small.
You need to have your LBS check you for size to which is best to fit you.
I have named my Awol too! it's called "*TDA*" :thumbsup:

Pete


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

*AWOL frameset weight*

I just picked up a medium AWOL frameset and thought I'd post weights for anyone interested:

Frame (w/ collar and bottle bolts): 5.2 lbs.
Fork (w/ crown race): 2.45 lbs. (300mm steerer)
Frameset (both above + included headset): 7.85 lbs.
Included 350mm seatpost: 311 grams

Weights seem about right for the frameset's intended purpose. I'll post some pics once I've finished my build.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Just finished the build: SRAM X9/Force, Shimano CX77's, Hadley/DT/Blunt, Syntace, WTB, and a Salsa Cowbell 2. I may need to cut the steerer a bit, but I'm always hesitant to do that on a touring bike.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

albeant said:


> Just finished the build: SRAM X9/Force, Shimano CX77's, Hadley/DT/Blunt, Syntace, WTB, and a Salsa Cowbell 2. I may need to cut the steerer a bit, but I'm always hesitant to do that on a touring bike.


That bike is sweet! I can't wait for them to start popping up on Craigslist. It's going to be my DK200 bike next year.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Thanks. The AWOL's been really fun. I took it on a mixed-surface ride with 8500' of climbing last week, and it was just awesome--ride quality feels more like a good steel road bike than a tank-ish touring bike on the road, and yet it bombs fire roads very confidently in the drops. (We were over 35mph on a long, rocky dirt descent, and I never felt like the bike was getting sketchy.)


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

albeant said:


> Thanks. The AWOL's been really fun. I took it on a mixed-surface ride with 8500' of climbing last week, and it was just awesome--ride quality feels more like a good steel road bike than a tank-ish touring bike on the road, and yet it bombs fire roads very confidently in the drops. (We were over 35mph on a long, rocky dirt descent, and I never felt like the bike was getting sketchy.)


I have find the same too.
Only on climbs do I notice the weight, But I still love my Awol and how I can link on road and off road tracks all up.










:thumbsup:

Kiwi Pete..


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## twors (Apr 18, 2011)

Half Pint (110 miles) Dirty Kanza bound. Slight upgrades, Stans Crest wheelset with 1.8 Specialized Renegades, converted to 10 speed with 12-30 cassette and retro shift shifters. Still running stock Sora derailleurs. 155mm Phenom saddle.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Anyone have an opinion on the stock wheelset? 

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

edthesped said:


> Anyone have an opinion on the stock wheelset?


Hi yes the stock wheels are very good, only looking to build a second set because i'm planning to run a front Schmidt SON 28 dynamo hub and maybe use a spare DT Swiss 350 rear hub that is just laying around at my work... :eekster:

Kiwi Pete :skep:


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## Fredwitrave (Jun 27, 2014)

Waw! Nice job!


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## Fredwitrave (Jun 27, 2014)

albeant said:


> Just finished the build: SRAM X9/Force, Shimano CX77's, Hadley/DT/Blunt, Syntace, WTB, and a Salsa Cowbell 2. I may need to cut the steerer a bit, but I'm always hesitant to do that on a touring bike.
> 
> View attachment 891534
> View attachment 891535


Waw! nice job!


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## Fredwitrave (Jun 27, 2014)

I bought the Awol Deluxe (only in Europe I think) a few months ago. I like it a lot! When I bought it, it looked like this:









Now it looks like this (except for the saddle which I changed for a Brooks):









I've done abouth 850 km (530 miles). Love the frame, plan to make upgrades in time (Maybe Shim Alfine??)

One thing though: It seems the paint is not verry 'solide'. Anyone any experience on that?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

I have a medium Comp coming for test/review (size medium). It'll be interesting to see how the ride compares to my old Salsa Vaya.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*My Awol in Winter*

Well it's mid Winter in New Zealand
Here is a few photo's of my last day ride (last weekend) and the more I ride my *"TDA"* (awol) the more I love it 
I'm riding only about 120 km's a week this time of year! mainly after dark, but in Training for my 1st long race/ride 320 km's later in the year :eekster:










TDA










Lake Taupo, Taupo, New Zealand

Kiwi Pete


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## Robe30 (May 20, 2011)

I'm picking my AWOL Comp up this evening after work and can't wait to put it through it's paces! I took it out for a 20 mile road ride last week and was pleased at how nicely it rode. It rolled along nicely even with 32psi in the tires. It goes much nicer w/ 60psi btw. I have a few days off and access to some amazing singletrack/fire roads/back roads that I've been looking to explore


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## shining_trapezoid (Mar 24, 2014)

Just got one a couple days ago. Love it. Yeah it's heavy, but it's totally badass. I tried out a Vaya, a Crossrip, a TriCross and a couple others. Really loved the Vaya too. Long story why I didn't get it. I do not regret going with the AWOL one bit.


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## kward541 (Jan 1, 2013)

*AWOL review*

I have about 400 mixed terrain miles and 44,000' vertical on my AWOL Comp. It's a GREAT bike and I'm really enjoying it! It makes me want to get out more. My road, mountain and town bikes are all jealous.

Initially I thought I would use it for road touring, but it's so much fun just knocking around on old roads and trails that I see all kinds of new opportunities.

It gets along just fine on the road, but it is much more capable off road than I expected. It tracks really well and it provides clear and predictable feedback. When it starts to slip, it's gradual and transitions nicely into a slide, so getting loose isn't scary. It took a while to get comfortable getting loose on a drop bar bike, but the AWOL is ready. This gives it a fun and eager personality.

Another area the AWOL really shines is when your on the road entering a corner at speed and realize there is a bunch of gravel/dirt/sand/pot holes! Where a road bike would sketch out, the AWOL says "Relax, I got this" allowing you to carry speed where you wouldn't on a road bike.

Beyond a very good fit, I find that the ease with which it takes on obstacles allows me to be more relaxed and be supple on the bike. This is good for handling, but also saves a lot of energy.

The long TT, short stem, high trail, tall HT, low BB combines to produce a comfortable, confident and versatile ride. The handling inspires confidence and I find I'm more relaxed and look around more. With the higher bars, I also use the drops more. Even though it's very stable, it's agile too. The frame mutes rough stuff as only the best steel can. Power transfer is lively and efficient.

After a couple of hours, these qualities really add up to much more than the sum of their parts. It would be easy to under estimate this bike without spending time on it.

I was on the fence about front loading. So I mounted a Tubus Tara front rack, loaded 25lb in my panniers and want for a test run. I tried road, gravel, trail and dirt with a lot of steeps and am now a big fan of front loading. I read somewhere in WeAreGoingAwol that this was part of the design intent. They got it right! 
I also loaded up my Revelate Viscacha and Sweetroll with the same 25lb and hit the same test run as with the front panniers.
Tough choice, but the low front panniers climb more naturally and handle better, especially on loose surfaces.

The Trigger Sport tires do a great job. Reasonably light and fast for a touring tire and stick well off road. I run 'em ( a little low, per mfg spec) at 45psi off road and 50 on. They roll faster than my road bike 700x25s over rough pavement and chipseal.

I put on a set of 29x2.2 Specialized FastTrak Control tires (at about 34psi) and what a hoot. It really wants to sling dirt and catch air! They barely fit, so I ordered Fast Trak 2.0s for gravel touring. It's like having a different bike with just a tire change.

I made some brackets to scoot 24oz bottles down to clear the (Lg) Revelate Tangle frame bag. Compared to a Hydration Pack and seat bag, the weight distribution of the Revelate Gas Tank and Tangle bags works well with the "forward and low" load carrying design intent.

The bike fits me well. It's a Lg and I'm 6' tall w a 34" sit bone to floor inseam. I normally ride a 58cm road bike with a 58ish Eff TT and a 110 stem. Compared to most adventure touring bikes, the AWOL has notably different geometry in that it has a 60cm Eff TT and a 75 stem, which works out to about the same, but seems to provide more MTBish steering leverage.
I've owned a few touring bikes and also test rode the Salsa Vaya 2, Surly Long Haul Trucker and AWOL (not comp)... all great bikes and it was a tough choice. I chose the AWOL because it's handles a little larger tire and has a little more MTB like handling.
Stock, it weighed 27.3lb with pedals, reflectors.
Set up is straight forward. BB7s have a learning curve, shortened by YouTube. The adjustable Swinger drop out is simple, but takes a bit of finesse to align. The Swinger securing bolt(s) torque is 10nm, per Specialized rep. The Swinger should work well for SS and belt drive.
Personally I don't need the swinger dropout, yet. It does allow a little wheelbase adjustment, I tried both short and long and prefer long. You can tell the difference, so if you want a quicker (town/commuter/cross) bike, set it short, but don't worry, you can still eat and dodge pot holes with no hands. It climbs steeps better and handles more stable (especially on gravel and with a load) set long.

I like the stock gear combinations, but currently I'm running an ultra wide ratio 10sp double. CAUTION, don't do this at home folks, but...
11-40 (Leonardi SRAM) cass, 30-46 Rotor Q Rings, Sugino OX601d 110/74 crank and an X9 T1 RD. You probably couldn't get away with this on many bikes, but the AWOL's low q factor and long chain stay help. It's a little finicky (chain length, B tension, NO Type2 RD). There are 17 usable gear, bigger jumps and ya gotta to think ahead due to the lack of duplicate gear overlap. Shifting on the largest 4 cogs requires just the right amount of overthrow, so you have to index your right hand a bit too. That said, it works really well (for me) on this bike.

I would highly recommend the AWOL and can't imagine anyone not being happy with this bike.

Hats off to the Big S for committing to a small market sector (adventure touring) with the passion of a small company. And thanks to Eric and R. for the inspiration and Jeff and Isaac at Siskiyou Cyclery.

Happy trails, Ken


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Are there any tall guys on this bike? Like 6'6" or so? 37" inseam and arms to match?

I finally had a chance to sit on a large, the reach forward felt good but the seat was obviously too low to tell for sure. It was an x poler. Strange paint and interesting front rack. Stock seat would have to go. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Freightlinerbob said:


> Are there any tall guys on this bike? Like 6'6" or so? 37" inseam and arms to match?
> 
> I finally had a chance to sit on a large, the reach forward felt good but the seat was obviously too low to tell for sure. It was an x poler. Strange paint and interesting front rack. Stock seat would have to go.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just built my AWOL frameset up and am trying to get a handle on the rocker dropouts. A couple of questions for those that have the adjustable dropouts. Where do you prefer the the rocker? Fully forward, fully back or somewhere in between? Also, when you set the limit screws do you screw them so they butt against the front of the rocker, forward, or so they are against the rear of the rocker, back? Forward seems to be the logical place to have the screws as braking would put a rearward force on the rocker and the screws would prevent the rocker from slipping back during braking. Or does it not really matter as the 10.2 Nm torque on the rocker screws is enough to hold the rockers in place? I tried to get setup information from Specialized but the person on the phone was either unable or unwilling to give setup information.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

I'm 5'12 and the Large is perfect. 6'6 is tall enough for a XL. You want this bike either perfect or slightly larger for a more relaxed position.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

I've read that one sits "in" it and not "on" it. I'm pretty sure I'll never know that sensation again since I last sat in my Big Wheel. 


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## keyhavenpotterer (Feb 22, 2013)

The guys who designed and developed AWOL are usually pretty good at answering questions. Always answered mine. Should be able to help with the rocker setting question.

Try here http://wearegoingawol.tumblr.com and press the "ask us anything" button down on the left of the page.

Brian


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

edthesped said:


> I just built my AWOL frameset up and am trying to get a handle on the rocker dropouts. A couple of questions for those that have the adjustable dropouts. Where do you prefer the the rocker? Fully forward, fully back or somewhere in between? Also, when you set the limit screws do you screw them so they butt against the front of the rocker, forward, or so they are against the rear of the rocker, back? Forward seems to be the logical place to have the screws as braking would put a rearward force on the rocker and the screws would prevent the rocker from slipping back during braking. Or does it not really matter as the 10.2 Nm torque on the rocker screws is enough to hold the rockers in place? I tried to get setup information from Specialized but the person on the phone was either unable or unwilling to give setup information.


Here's the setup manual:
http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/0000045167.pdf

My approach has been to loosen the four dropout bolts (two each side) first, then use the adjusting bolts to achieve the desired chainstay length and/or tension, while eyeballing the tire clearance at the chainstays & seatstays to verify the adjusting screws were equal on each side, then tighten all the dropout bolts to torque spec.

I don't think you should move the adjustment screws once the dropout bolts are torqued, or at least that is my perception of the design.

EDIT: for a normal derailleur rear setup, I have the dropouts adjusted to about 80% of the way maxed out, because I like the tire clearance and I'm 6'4" so I like longish chainstays.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Freightlinerbob said:


> Are there any tall guys on this bike? Like 6'6" or so? 37" inseam and arms to match?


I'm 6'4" on an XL and I'd definitely suggest you stick with an XL. I have a 36" inseam and 37" sleeve length in a dress shirt. I could have used an L if I put a more normal-ish stem on it (like 110mm) but as you noted, the seatpost extension on the L for folks our size will be pretty massive. I'd rather have less leverage against that frame joint.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

InertiaMan said:


> Here's the setup manual:
> http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/0000045167.pdf
> 
> My approach has been to loosen the four dropout bolts (two each side) first, then use the adjusting bolts to achieve the desired chainstay length and/or tension, while eyeballing the tire clearance at the chainstays & seatstays to verify the adjusting screws were equal on each side, then tighten all the dropout bolts to torque spec.
> ...


Thanks,

I talked to S and was told to leave it in the position it came from the factory in. After I pressed a little for information regarding what the recommended position was, I was put on hold and then told that the dropouts should be set at the furthest setting from the seat tube, (11). Is it me or does the 7.9 Nm torque seem a little light? I'd assume the rocker would see some fairly strong forces during a hard brake or a root or pothole hit. I guess the set screw will help keep the rocker from moving though.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the bike, it handles very well but is not very sporty out of the gate.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

I moved my dropouts/rockers all the way forward, and the bike seemed a little more lively. Not a night-and-day difference, but certainly noticeable.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I guess a pic may be in order. The bike is still a work in progress. I'd like to add racks and fenders and bar tape is temporary until I position the brifters just right, though the leather is kind of growing on me.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> I moved my dropouts/rockers all the way forward, and the bike seemed a little more lively. Not a night-and-day difference, but certainly noticeable.


Does doing that affect what size tire one can use?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Freightlinerbob said:


> Does doing that affect what size tire one can use?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not that I could tell. Granted, I'm running 32mm tires at the moment, but there's a boatload of clearance to begin with.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Not that I could tell. Granted, I'm running 32mm tires at the moment, but there's a boatload of clearance to begin with.


A couple of months in, what's your take on the AWOL. My recollection is that it's not quite as spunky as the Vaya that I only test rode. I guess that's the trade off for versatility.


----------



## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

edthesped said:


> I talked to S and was told to leave it in the position it came from the factory in. After I pressed a little for information regarding what the recommended position was, I was put on hold and then told that the dropouts should be set at the furthest setting from the seat tube, (11). Is it me or does the 7.9 Nm torque seem a little light? I'd assume the rocker would see some fairly strong forces during a hard brake or a root or pothole hit. I guess the set screw will help keep the rocker from moving though.


I suspect they recommend the "full out" setting because that would be the least prone to slippage. Basically, full out is the position the drop out would get pushed to by forces if you left the bolts "loose." So if you tighten things up in that position from the start, it really can't move on you.



GRAVELBIKE said:


> I moved my dropouts/rockers all the way forward, and the bike seemed a little more lively. Not a night-and-day difference, but certainly noticeable.


That makes sense. Per the manual I linked earlier, the range of chainstay length is 444 to 459mm. 15mm is enough to produce a noticeable difference in the ride. In comparison, cross bikes like the Soma DC are 425. Vaya is 450.



Freightlinerbob said:


> Does doing that affect what size tire one can use?


It will definitely limit things at the extreme, but anything 1.75" or below should still be fine. I've got a bunch of tire clearance photos I will get around to posting. I'll try to get an example at the shortest chainstay position.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

edthesped said:


> A couple of months in, what's your take on the AWOL. My recollection is that it's not quite as spunky as the Vaya that I only test rode. I guess that's the trade off for versatility.


The AWOL is one of the most stable-riding bikes I've encountered. Right out of the box I felt like I could ride it no-handed on broken pavement while eating a PowerBar. I do notice the extra weight on my daily commute, but I'll take the weight penalty when I'm riding in the dark and the ground is damp, etc.

That said, I'll be building up a Vaya with SRAM's CX1 group in the near future. It'll weigh a lot less than the AWOL, so that sort of rules out an apples-to-apples comparison.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> The AWOL is one of the most stable-riding bikes I've encountered. Right out of the box I felt like I could ride it no-handed on broken pavement while eating a PowerBar.


Much has been written about the trail on this bike and it's stability with loaded front panniers. So I plugged in the AWOL's numbers as well as those from my old Hardrock with rigid fork, here:

http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php

The trail is almost identical and with a slightly smaller tire, exactly the same. Although it arrives there with slightly different numbers. The HR is pretty stable as well.

Is this an MTB masquerading as a road bike or the other way round?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Freightlinerbob said:


> The trail is almost identical and with a slightly smaller tire, exactly the same. Although it arrives there with slightly different numbers. The HR is pretty stable as well.


What HA and rake numbers did you use for the Hardrock?

The trail values for the AWOL don't strike me as unusual. If one assumes a larger nominal tire in use on the AWOL than the Vaya, the resulting trail values only differ by 2mm or so. Across suitable tire sizes, Vaya trail is 64-69mm whereas AWOL is 60-66mm. My Soma Double Cross is 65-70mm. Contrast that to a Fargo, at ~80mm. Or a Soma Randonneur at 28mm (!!!).

To me, the most unique geometric aspect of the AWOL is the long top tube and short stem. Obviously the stem length won't influence no-hands stability, but it certainly influences actual hands-on steering.

Its hard to isolate what is/isn't causing some of these ride characteristics.

But back to your Hardrock . . . has anyone suggested that those don't make good touring bikes? To the contrary, several touring books I've read suggest the rigid fork 90's mountain bikes as an excellent, inexpensive touring chassis. My objection to them is based more upon lack of disc mounts, narrow rear dropout spacing, limitation to 26" tires, occasionally odd seatpost diameters, etc. But if a friend said "I've got $200 to spend on a touring bike" then a 90's steel MTB is where I'd point them.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

My HR is a 2006 XXL with a Surly Troll fork. Using an angle finder app on the HT, it fluctuated 72-73. I used 72.5 and 40mm offset as per Surly's published info. 50-559 tires. AWOL numbers as per Specialized's info. Coincidentally, the 2015 HR frame seems identical to 2006. 


I won't pretend to know what all this means or that the AWOL is a better bike or maybe just sexier, but found the result interesting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

I'd be surprised if your HR really had that steep of a head angle. 26" hardtail MTB geometries converged pretty consistently to 73/71 for SA/HA for "typical" XC models (slacker for bikes intended to be pointed down steeper train, but virtually never steeper). I would expect a 2006 era HR hardtail to have a 70.5 HA +/-0.5 deg. 

I use the angle finder on my phone, too, and it can be finicky to get good placement, but it does work. If the headtube isn't perfectly flat, I lay the phone against the stanchions of the fork.

A shorter fork (non-suspension corrected) would perfectly explain the steeper head angle, but the Troll fork has always been suspension corrected as far as I know. You might measure the crown-to-axle length: it should be 453mm. A non-corrected fork would be more like 410. Your head angle will change about 1 degree for each 20mm change in fork length.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Placing an angle finder on the Troll forks won't work as the tubes are tapered and not parallel to the steerer. At any rate, it is what it is, really solid on pavement with the Big Apples and equally so on gravel with the Smart Sams.


But back to the AWOL...... I'd like to know the height of the handlebar clamp relative to the BB on an XL. Haven't found that number anywhere and finding an XL in a store to try on isn't happening either. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Freightlinerbob said:


> Placing an angle finder on the Troll forks won't work as the tubes are tapered and not parallel to the steerer. At any rate, it is what it is, really solid on pavement with the Big Apples and equally so on gravel with the Smart Sams.
> 
> But back to the AWOL...... I'd like to know the height of the handlebar clamp relative to the BB on an XL. Haven't found that number anywhere and finding an XL in a store to try on isn't happening either.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's unlikely you'll find that number online unless someone measures their own XL AWOL. If Specialized published the stack and reach measurements, that would help, but unfortunately, they don't. Plus, bar clamp height will vary with stem angle, etc.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Freightlinerbob said:


> But back to the AWOL...... I'd like to know the height of the handlebar clamp relative to the BB on an XL. Haven't found that number anywhere and finding an XL in a store to try on isn't happening either.


I find it really irritating when companies don't list stack and reach values. They are the most useful parameters to directly compare cockpit dimensions, so I don't know what their rationale is for leaving them.

Lucky for you, I have an XL that I can directly measure and post. I'll get down to the garage later and let you know.

As @gravelbike notes, the actual bar height is dependent on stem/spacer, so I'll just give you actual stack (= vertical distance between BB and top of headtube).


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Freightliner,

Here are the measurements of my XL with stock 700x42 tires (all cm from floor):
BB height = 28.6cm
Headtube height: 95cm
Center of the top "flats" of the drop bar: 103.5cm

So that means 95-28.6 = 66.4cm stack 

I tried to measure the reach, but its hard to get exact value without a plumb line, etc. I measured 40.6cm.

Hope that helps.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Thanks for that. I'm sure others will find it useful as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Freightlinerbob said:


> Is this an MTB masquerading as a road bike or the other way round?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It reminds me of Salsa Fargo. Which is a nice bike.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> It's unlikely you'll find that number online unless someone measures there own XL AWOL. If Specialized published the stack and reach measurements, that would help, but unfortunately, they don't. Plus, bar clamp height will vary with stem angle, etc.


? We got quite a few questions about the stack and...


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Well if those are the official numbers, apparently I'm pretty good with a tape measure.

Forgive me the 3mm error eyeballing the reach, but I nailed the stack!


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

That stack/reach chart is interesting--I've never seen different measurements for frames and complete bikes. I would think that the latter would depend heavily on tire size, stem length/rise, etc.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> That stack/reach chart is interesting--I've never seen different measurements for frames and complete bikes. I would think that the latter would depend heavily on tire size, stem length/rise, etc.


Not sure how tire size would change stack or reach, but they state that the "bike" stack and reach figures are based on the bike "as shipped" with all spacers under the stem and the stem flipped up.

They probably added that to show that the overall fit with the longish top tubes offset by the very short stems results in a more typical fit than the regular reach measurement might indicate.


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

I´ve had my AWOL deluxe since early spring and I really like the bike. I´m trying to figure out what is the widest tire I can fit on it. I´ve already bought 29x2,0 specialized fast trak but they are to wide. So i would like to hear what are the widest tires you have been able to fit on this bike because I live in Iceland and there are not many shops who sell these thin mtb tires so I will likely have to order it from abroad.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

What about the Schwalbe Smart Sam? Comes in a 47/622. I have them on my 26", they really are an all around tire. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

gudbjornm said:


> I´m trying to figure out what is the widest tire I can fit on it. I´ve already bought 29x2,0 specialized fast trak but they are to wide. So i would like to hear what are the widest tires you have been able to fit on this bike because I live in Iceland and there are not many shops who sell these thin mtb tires so I will likely have to order it from abroad.


I'm surprised the 29x2.0 Fast Trak wouldn't fit. Your Deluxe model lacks the adjustable dropouts, right? Maybe that explains your experience vs. mine.

Here's some photos I took of my XL AWOL Comp with dropouts set about 75% of the way toward "maximum chainstay length" position.

*29x2.35 Big Bens:*

































*29x2.25 Rocket Rons:*





















I'm not suggesting anyone actually ride longterm on something like the 2.35 Big Bens (although it worked for me for 10 minutes  ). But I thought that it might be illustrative as a sort of "boundary" example of what fits.

The 29x2.25 Rocket Rons seemed like they would be rideable IF you were willing to accept the fact that a modest wheel issue (out of true, dropouts not aligned) would require immediate attention.

I also fit some 29x2.1 Specialized Ground Controls, and they had (barely) better clearance than the RoRo's, but I couldn't get useful photos (sun had set).

So my admittedly non-scientific summary:
- virtually any 29x1.9 or smaller should work
- some/many 29x2.0 should work, depending on brand/model or actual carcass dimensions, and/or your personal preferences for clearance
- 29x2.2 or bigger is going to be challenging for any longterm use, but technically does "fit".


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

gudbjornm said:


> I´ve had my AWOL deluxe since early spring and I really like the bike. I´m trying to figure out what is the widest tire I can fit on it. I´ve already bought 29x2,0 specialized fast trak but they are to wide. So i would like to hear what are the widest tires you have been able to fit on this bike because I live in Iceland and there are not many shops who sell these thin mtb tires so I will likely have to order it from abroad.


Hi Specialized 29x2.0 FastTrak's fit! and 29x2.1 Ground Control tyres fit too.
I did have to change the front derailuer to clear the rear tyre.
Why did 29x2.0 tyres not fit you bike?

Awol away 
Kiwi Pete...


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

On my AWOL Comp, the WTB Nano 2.1 TCS fit decently, but with very little room for mud or wheel wobble. 

After sidewall-slashing my second Nano, I put on the Kenda SB8 2.1. It fits with more clearance that the Nano's, mostly because it has the characteristically flattish profile of Kenda's dirt tires. Not a great tire on the road, but it's been excellent everywhere else.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

I don't want to sign up for Tumblr just so I can ask on the AWOL blog, so I'm hoping someone here can help me as I have a few questions:

- anyone know what the uncut steerer tube length is for the frameset?

- does anyone have the top tube and down tube outer diameter for the XL frame? My LBS only has a medium in stock; it looks like a 28.6mm top tube. I'm wondering if they oversize it more for larger frames.

Thanks!


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

@seatboy,

Frame tubing diameter doesn't change across sizes. Butting/wall-thickness profile is presumably different, but I don't *know* that to be fact. I also was a bit surprised at the "skinny" top tube, thinking it perhaps too skinny for a touring rig, but framebuilders tell me the downtube and chainstays are the primary contributors to "longitudinal" frame stiffness, so maybe the TT isn't a big deal. I haven't ridden w/ a big load yet, so I have no data point.

The steerer on my XL is 325mm. Don't know if it was cut (I bought second-hand) but there is room for 30mm+ spacers + stem + "cone" of headset top.


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

Thanks guys for the information.Probably I should have been more specific, there is a enough room in the frame, the problem is the front derailuer, I can´t use the smallest wheel on the crank. Kiwi Pete, what kind of derailuer did you use to give you enough clearence for the wider tires


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

gudbjornm said:


> Kiwi Pete, what kind of derailuer did you use to give you enough clearence for the wider tires


Hi
I find that a NOS mid 1990's XT derailuer worked good and had good room for the rear tyre.

But i'm how looking to change the Cranks to a set of MTB 2x or 3x XT cranks as I have find low gear to high for climbing big hill's off road and i'm planning to ride in the Kiwi Brevet (at the start of 2015) Kiwi Brevet 2015
With this set up the standard front derailuer will work great and have a load of room for the 2.0 plus tyres.
I hope this helps :drumroll:

Kiwi Pete


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

gudbjornm said:


> Probably I should have been more specific, there is a enough room in the frame, the problem is the front derailuer, I can´t use the smallest wheel on the crank.


Are you running a triple?

I have the stock crank (FSA Gossamer) and front der (SRAM Apex) on my Comp. When the front der is at the innermost position, it is still (slightly) further _outboard _than the chainstay below. In other words, any tire will hit the chainstay before the derailleur cage.

I intend to change to a mountain triple at some point, so I wonder if I'll encounter der/tire interference.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

The steerer on my fork (size med frame) measures 300mm. Interesting to hear they're spec'ing a longer steerer on the XL. As for frame stiffness, unless the tubing thicknesses are different for the XL, I'd expect some frame wiggle with plumply loaded rear panniers. I've tried my AWOL loaded up that way, and managed to get some swaying, particularly when climbing out of the saddle. I was using a Tubus Cargo designed for 26" (the rails sit just above the rear tire), so the rack itself wasn't the issue. 

Not that that's a problem, at least for me. Aside from grocery runs, I'm pretty much done with panniers now that I've got a bikepacking setup, and the AWOL is plenty stiff for that kind of loading. 

I have also tried the AWOL with heavily loaded front panniers on a Tubus lowrider, as it appears in most of the AWOL marketing fantasy landscape, and handling was rock solid. For a pure road tour where you might want panniers for convenience, front-biased loading seems to be the way to go with this frame.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi
> I find that a NOS mid 1990's XT derailuer worked good and had good room for the rear tyre.
> 
> But i'm how looking to change the Cranks to a set of MTB 2x or 3x XT cranks as I have find low gear to high for climbing big hill's off road and i'm planning to ride in the Kiwi Brevet (at the start of 2015) Kiwi Brevet 2015
> ...


Hi This helps alot but could you tell me what NOS stands for?


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

InertiaMan said:


> Are you running a triple?
> 
> I have the stock crank (FSA Gossamer) and front der (SRAM Apex) on my Comp. When the front der is at the innermost position, it is still (slightly) further _outboard _than the chainstay below. In other words, any tire will hit the chainstay before the derailleur cage.
> 
> I intend to change to a mountain triple at some point, so I wonder if I'll encounter der/tire interference.


Hi 
Yes I´m running triple as the deluxe version comes with FSA omega triple


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

New Old Stock (ie, part from several years ago that's been sitting on a shelf somewhere)



gudbjornm said:


> Hi This helps alot but could you tell me what NOS stands for?


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

seat_boy said:


> New Old Stock (ie, part from several years ago that's been sitting on a shelf somewhere)


thanks a lot


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

gudbjornm said:


> Hi This helps alot but could you tell me what NOS stands for?


Hi
I agree with you that the low gear is to high for steep climbing off road but as I broke my rear derailuer while off roading I replaced it with a mountain bike one and am waiting for my LBS to get me an shimano HG-61 casette which has 11-36 gearing. I´m hoping that this will get the gearing I want.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Just installed Tubus' Vega Evo rear rack and Tara lowriders on my medium Vaya, and it was dead simple. No bending or tweaking necessary. Probably the quickest/easiest rack install I've ever done.


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## augsburg (Nov 17, 2014)

*Larger Rotors for AWOL?*

I've not seen much info for the AWOL on the ability to upgrade the disc rotors to a larger size. I'm a big guy and live in hilly country. I like the BB7's but prefer a 203mm in front and at least a 180mm in the rear. Does anyone have experience on whether this is feasible with the AWOL. I've found two issues with going to larger rotors in the past. (1) The rotor's clearance to the fork or chainstay, and (2) conflicts in fitting the larger adapter needed for the larger rotors. Of course, there are also some issues with the bike manufacturer standing behind larger rotors (for example, Surly specifically states they do not).


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Kiwi Brevet..... Awol*

Well i'm planning to ride in the Kiwi Brevet in Feb next year so have started charging a few things for the better :thumbsup:









My bike in the Sun last Sunday afternoon









Swat Stem Tool









Surly front rack with lower updated mounts and I customized the upper mounts front a pair of older lower mounts... for a cleaner look (& strong too)

More to come a new MTB crankset etc 

Kiwi Pete....


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

The AWOL in commuter mode:


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> The AWOL in commuter mode:


Compass/Grand Bois tires? Stampede pass? How's the AWOL on the road with those?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Compass Stampede Pass (not the extra-light version). The AWOL's ride is much improved with those tires.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Thx. I haven't had anything other than 2.1 knobbies on my AWOL, so I'm itching to set it up with some road tires. Looks great with the skinwalls.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

*Is that a medium frame.....??*

Is that a medium frame Gravelbike?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

tankhead10 said:


> Is that a medium frame Gravelbike?


Yes, it is. Box-stock aside from the saddle, pedals, racks, and accessories.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks, how tall are you and inseam please?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

tankhead10 said:


> Thanks, how tall are you and inseam please?


5'10.5" with a saddle height of approx 73cm.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

albeant said:


> Compass/Grand Bois tires? Stampede pass? How's the AWOL on the road with those?





GRAVELBIKE said:


> Yes, it is. Box-stock aside from the saddle, pedals, racks, and accessories.


Are the swinger dropouts as set at the factory or did you move them forward? If they are factory set would yo take a closeup of how they are set please?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

edthesped said:


> Are the swinger dropouts as set at the factory or did you move them forward? If they are factory set would yo take a closeup of how they are set please?
> 
> Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


I moved them all the way forward. Handling seems to be improved.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> 5'10.5" with a saddle height of approx 73cm.


Thanks.
Where are you measuring the saddle height from; Where to where?
And also could you give the inseam measurement please.

Thanks


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

tankhead10 said:


> Thanks.
> Where are you measuring the saddle height from; Where to where?
> And also could you give the inseam measurement please.
> 
> Thanks


Center of bottom bracket to top of saddle (inline with the seat tube and seatpost).

I don't know my inseam.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks again. I will be ordering mine this week. I am 5'10.5" also. Medium it is..


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

Here is my AWOL with my friend's Kona Rove


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> I moved them all the way forward. Handling seems to be improved.


Thanks, I moved mine about mid way and feel that it handles better as well but I'm not sure whether or not it's the placebo effect. Also at this point it's either cold and windy or cold and wet when I ride so I can't really tell anyway.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

I ordered my medium AWOL this afternoon. Can't freaking wait. 2018 goal to ride across the country of USA for my 50th B-day. Let the training begin.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

IS this featured frame a medium??? I asked on there but no answer. tanks


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

tankhead10 said:


> I ordered my medium AWOL this afternoon. Can't freaking wait. 2018 goal to ride across the country of USA for my 50th B-day. Let the training begin.


Congrats. It's a really nice bike. I was torn between it and the Vaya but am very happy with my final choice.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Anyone know of a decent pair of fenders for this that will take 42+ tires?


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## hefeweizan (Aug 24, 2011)

Any recommendations for a good pizza rack for the AWOL?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

hefeweizan said:


> Any recommendations for a good pizza rack for the AWOL?


It seems Specialized doesn't sell their components separately only bundled on a bike. Salsa sells everything a la carte so you have the opportunity to build exactly what you want. I purchased the comp frame but couldn't get the Specialized flared drop bars so I had to get Salsa Cowbells instead, not a big deal because I really like the bars. In the end who is the real loser? As much as I like the bike I dislike the way Specialized operates when it comes to component sales.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

hefeweizan said:


> Any recommendations for a good pizza rack for the AWOL?


Hi yes here are two









Porteur Rack Black CrMo | SOMA Fabrications

And I went with a









Watch is a









Cargo | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes

I hope this is of help to you..

Kiwi Pete


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Added a little color/bling to the AWOL:


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## hefeweizan (Aug 24, 2011)

Thanks for the help!


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi yes here are two
> 
> View attachment 946431
> 
> ...


Thanks for all that info..

How much is that Surly Rack? Was it an easy bolt on job or were mods needed? I am looking at the Blackburn outpost front rack.. Anyone out there using it on the AWOL? tanks. It seems like there could be some skewer issues with the blackburn?
Also, what tires are you running they look great? Thanks


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

*Front derailleur*

I have a quick question. The AWOL Comp has a SRAM Apex, braze-on, my question is does the AWOL Comp Frameset have the braze on or does it require a clamped front derailleur?

Thanks,
Craiger


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

craiger24 said:


> I have a quick question. The AWOL Comp has a SRAM Apex, braze-on, my question is does the AWOL Comp Frameset have the braze on or does it require a clamped front derailleur?
> 
> Thanks,
> Craiger


There's no brazed-on mount. Specialized specs the Comp with a braze-on derailleur and adapter clamp.


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

Thank you Gravelbike, I would assume it is a 28.6 clamp, you wouldn't happen to know the diameter of the one on your Comp frame? I Ineed to get a braze-on adapter clamp ordered.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Tankhead10,

That Surly rack is $125 with free shipping at Bikebagshop. I've experienced really great service from them and they do run specials from time to time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

craiger24 said:


> Thank you Gravelbike, I would assume it is a 28.6 clamp, you wouldn't happen to know the diameter of the one on your Comp frame? I Ineed to get a braze-on adapter clamp ordered.


28.6 is correct. A bit of personal preference advice... if you need to use a shim don't use a metal shim, I started with a metal shim and it marred the paint.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

edthesped said:


> 28.6 is correct. A bit of personal preference advice... if you need to use a shim don't use a metal shim, I started with a metal shim and it marred the paint.
> 
> Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


Thank you for the confirmation, and the shim advice.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Santa came early and he installed a Blackburn TRX-1 rack. The blackburn/nashbar low rider would not fit so that is going back


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Also::

I am so very glad I did not get a large. That would have been too big. WHEW what a relief .


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

Congratulations on the new AWOL, it looks good under the tree....


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Tankhead10 the bike looks great. Good luck


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## steinercat (Apr 25, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Added a little color/bling to the AWOL:


Any thoughts/conclusions between the AWOL and Vaya?

BTW, you ride a 56cm on the Vaya right?

Thanks!


----------



## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

hefeweizan said:


> Any recommendations for a good pizza rack for the AWOL?


Hi Again I have just changed my front rack again to a lighter Pizza/Porteur rack made be Specialized under there Globe name.
Here is a Link: Specialized Bicycle Components









Kiwi Pete :eekster:


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

steinercat said:


> Any thoughts/conclusions between the AWOL and Vaya?
> 
> BTW, you ride a 56cm on the Vaya right?
> 
> Thanks!


My current Vaya is a 56cm, and it fits me better than the 57cm Vaya that I rode for several years (and sold last year). Anyway...

The stock AWOL Comp complete bicycle is much heavier than my (current) Vaya, so it's hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison between the two. For touring and commuting--especially with a front load--the AWOL is a better choice, IMO. For more spirited riding (on- or off-road), I prefer the Vaya.


----------



## steinercat (Apr 25, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> My current Vaya is a 56cm, and it fits me better than the 57cm Vaya that I rode for several years (and sold last year). Anyway...
> 
> The stock AWOL Comp complete bicycle is much heavier than my (current) Vaya, so it's hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison between the two. For touring and commuting--especially with a front load--the AWOL is a better choice, IMO. For more spirited riding (on- or off-road), I prefer the Vaya.


Thanks for this! Now back to my search for a Vaya frameset.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi Again I have just changed my front rack again to a lighter Pizza/Porteur rack made be Specialized under there Globe name.
> Here is a Link: Specialized Bicycle Components
> 
> View attachment 950093
> ...


Hello,
Nice set up. What frame bag is that? Also what size frame bag. Nice job.


----------



## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

tankhead10 said:


> Hello,
> Nice set up. What frame bag is that? Also what size frame bag. Nice job.


Hi
The Bags are Revelate Designs
Size is XL
My Awol is size Med!
Thanks 

I'm running a front rack to lower my front load and to have a little more Handlebar room.
Had to change the crankset to fit the 29"er rear tyre on my bike, only needed on the base Awol the Awol Comp is all ok STD to fit a 29"er rear tyre in?

Kiwi Pete :eekster:


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Anyone else have a fork (crown) that's not drilled for a fender/light/rack bracket?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Anyone else have a fork (crown) that's not drilled for a fender/light/rack bracket?


Hi 
All the Awol's that I have worked on have been drilled so I do not know why your's has not been?
Phone up Specialized Hot Line or go and see your LBS (Specialized) to ask why.
I would drill it for you but New Zealand is a long way away, unlike 90% of bike shops i'm a motorcycle engineer come service manger 

Have a load of Awol fun....

_Kiwi Pete_

:thumbsup:


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi
> All the Awol's that I have worked on have been drilled so I do not know why your's has not been?
> Phone up Specialized Hot Line or go and see your LBS (Specialized) to ask why.
> I would drill it for you but New Zealand is a long way away, unlike 90% of bike shops i'm a motorcycle engineer come service manger
> ...


Mine came directly from Specialized, so it's a bit of a mystery.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Do you mean drilled as in fork crown daruma or as this on my AWOL Comp frameset...


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

edthesped said:


> Do you mean drilled as in fork crown daruma or as this on my AWOL Comp frameset...


Drilled, as in the photo.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Drilled, as in the photo.


Then obviously mine is drilled. OTOH as discussed in another thread my fork isn't drilled for a dynamo hub like yours is.

Makes me wonder if it's frame style specific.

Mine: AWOL Comp frame only. Drilled for fender not drilled for Dynamo hub.


GRAVELBIKE said:


> Drilled, as in the photo.


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## moghyukon (May 16, 2014)

how many tick marks do you have to missalign your swinger arms to ensure a centered rear wheel ?

I have to missalign mine about 1 tick marks which is about 3mm. I am worried hence the manual says "evenly"

kind regards mogh


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

moghyukon said:


> how many tick marks do you have to missalign your swinger arms to ensure a centered rear wheel ?
> 
> I have to missalign mine about 1 tick marks which is about 3mm. I am worried hence the manual says "evenly"
> 
> kind regards mogh


I have maybe a 1 tick misalgnment but it's hard to tell exactly because there is no good point of reference on the frame to gauge the tick marks on the swingers, (which I find a bit silly).


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Found out that this headset expander fits perfectly inside my AWOL's undrilled fork crown. Might go this route if I don't feel like drilling the fork.


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## JohnnyP5 (Aug 3, 2009)

I recently added some 11 speed shifters with hydraulic brakes and a 11 speed cassette to my existing 2x10 drivetrain and am pretty happy with the result.

SRAM *11* speed shifters
SRAM *10* speed MTB rear derailleur, long cage, Type 2
Shimano *11* speed 11-40 cassette
Shimano *11* speed chain
Rotor 46/34 *10* speed chain rings
SRAM *10* speed front derailleur with Yaw feature

It all works great together. The only small issue is that the chain could be a bit longer. I used all the links that it came with. Right now I have the dropouts all the way forward and the chain length in 46x40 is as tight as it possibly could be (derailleur cage is pulled all the way forward). This also resulted in the B-screw not as far in as it could be. That said, it all works great and can run fully crossed chained in the both the big and little rings without rubbing thanks to the yaw front derailleur.


----------



## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

Just got word, my AWOL frame is on the FedEx truck headed to the LBS


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

The AWOL frame arrived Friday. Saturday was build day and here is the results.


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## moghyukon (May 16, 2014)

Mine came In November had to wait for some replacement, and now its running as a Tpuring Build. Not as rad as all yours but I love it so far.

https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_01.jpg

https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_02.jpg









By the way the backdrop are the german Alps.

Parts are from my Surly Ogre which is no more hence it wouldn't play with me nicely.

__
https://flic.kr/p/15574264318

kind regards
mogh


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

moghyukon said:


> Mine came In November had to wait for some replacement, and now its running as a Tpuring Build. Not as rad as all yours but I love it so far.
> 
> https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_01.jpg
> https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_02.jpg
> ...


Very nice. Could you post a picture of the front dropout/brake? I'm having a tough time getting the rack/fender/caliper to play nicely on mine.


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## moghyukon (May 16, 2014)

*Awol fender, tara setup*

Specialzed cheated , and I till now have to do so too. The Tara is mounted at the weak joint.









https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_04.jpg

(Tubus says this is wrong as in the manual stated it should cross the fork and should be mounted on the back mounting hole)

I ordered Tubus spacer to check if I can mount it the way to be, can't tell you right now.

As for the fender, I couldn't mount the nice C-Lite Fenders with my Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 2.0 "through" the tight fork. So I did cut the fender where the bottom support aligns below the brake and pathed a new fender mounting at the top. (about a 90degrees arc)

At closeup this is all a bit ugly, but the fenders where already beat up from my Surly Ogre build. So i didn't mind the patchwork.









https://www.defcon-x.de/mogh_forum_files/specialized-awol_touring_03.jpg

Anyway the Tubus Tara mounting is nice and clean but as mentioned on the weak joint. Lets see when the spacers arive.

kind regards
mogh


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Thank you--very helpful.

I couldn't get my Tara mounted on the rear eyelets, and also ended up using the front eyelets.


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

Mogh, your AWOL is Very nice!!!


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

craiger24 said:


> The AWOL frame arrived Friday. Saturday was build day and here is the results.


Very nice build, I still need to find a nice set of fenders for mine.

Off topic, in a past life I was stationed on the Fliegerhorst Lechfeld and used to work near Görisried. I really loved my time in Bavaria.


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## moghyukon (May 16, 2014)

edthesped;11716924
Off topic said:


> Jepp that is really close Görisried is only 20km as the crow flies.
> 
> glad you liked it despite the somehow rural population ;-)


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

moghyukon said:


> Jepp that is really close Görisried is only 20km as the crow flies.
> 
> glad you liked it despite the somehow rural population ;-)


We were pretty much on lockdown when we were at Görisried so didn't get much of a chance to go local Most of my time was in Klosterlechfeld, still pretty rural though, with one week out of six in Görisried. I can still find our site on google maps even though it appears to be long abandoned or maybe repurposed. In any event it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. On a side note I remember seeing old ladies riding the bike lanes along B17 in nasty blowing snow. I thought they were crazy then and now that I'm approaching their age I really think they were crazy.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Damn it. I just tried to install my new Blackburn Outpost Front Rack to the rear braze on on the fork. It fit and I was excited that it did because from the research I have been doing, this could have been a problem. The bolt was sort of "thread tweaked" as I screwed it in. So I backed it out and checked the threads. Sure enough the threads are now smaller in diameter than the rest of the bolt. BOOhoo. Thank goodness I have a 170mm skewer coming my way this week so I can mount it trouble free to the fork mount via the extended skewer. Word of caution fellow AWOLers. BTW the rack is pretty cool. Can't wait for the weather to change to do my first tour. Either the GAP in Pittsburgh to Cumberland, or the Wellsboro to Jersey Shore rail trail Grand Canyon of PA..


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

@tank -- How's the overall fit with the Outpost rack? I have a pair of the Outpost racks en route, and I'd be curious to know if you ran into any other issues.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> @tank -- How's the overall fit with the Outpost rack? I have a pair of the Outpost racks en route, and I'd be curious to know if you ran into any other issues.


I will let you know when I get the skewer. When I had it on the braze on it pulled to one side more than the other. Might be because of the bolt not going in smoothly. Stay tuned.....


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> @tank -- How's the overall fit with the Outpost rack? I have a pair of the Outpost racks en route, and I'd be curious to know if you ran into any other issues.


I have the Outpost front rack on my Randonee and like it a lot. I went with a Down Under rack for the AWOL as I was thinking of a minimalist look. I'm now thinking I might have to reevaluate my decision.

Also, I kicked around the rear rack but couldn't find a weight on it and it seems like it would sit too high. Please take a picture of the rear rack mounted to the AWOL when you install it.

edit:

I currently have the Blackburn TRX-1 Ultimate Touring Rack installed on the AWOL and if the top deck weren't so narrow I'd be smitten with it. For $23 it fit like it was designed for the AWOL. My problem is that I typically strap my tent and ground cloth to the top deck when I tour and my lunch box to it when I commute to work and find the deck to be too narrow for both.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

tankhead10 said:


> I will let you know when I get the skewer. When I had it on the braze on it pulled to one side more than the other. Might be because of the bolt not going in smoothly. Stay tuned.....


On my AWOL, one of the low-rider bosses is brazed slightly crooked, which causes the Tubus to sit off to one side.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

UPDATE>>>>>>>
I got the new skewer set. The 170mm skewer was too short to fit the rack to the fork ( 
Since I had the old skewer off I tried again to use the lower back braze on. The bolt went on like a dream. I guess the skewer was getting in the way. I used the new smaller skewer instead of the heavy specialized one and it is narrower allowing the skewer not to interfere with the braze on mount. Keep this information you AWOLers

SO the rack is installed. It pulls to the left a bit, not much, but a bit. I now have to trim the extra posts with a hack saw and I am good to go.

I too have the TRX-1 ultimate ($27.00) and yes it is narrow. I knew that going in but I still can get it to hold my thermarest with ROC STRAPS. 

Weather better get better soon, I am chomping at the bit for my first tour.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

tankhead10 said:


> UPDATE>>>>>>>
> ....................
> 
> I too have the TRX-1 ultimate ($27.00) and yes it is narrow. I knew that going in but I still can get it to hold my thermarest with ROC STRAPS.
> ...


I haven't had a chance to really try to pack my tent on the rear rack but the lunch box ain't happening. I'm thinking the the tent might sandwich nicely between the rear panniers or I might try to fashion a couple of cross members to help hold the tent in place. I've looked hard at the Tubus and Racktime racks but am not able to convince myself to part with the cash as the TRX-1 is quite nice other than the narrow deck. Anyone looking for a budget rack for the AWOL would be crazy not to consider the TRX-1.

Also, if you don't mind snapping a few pics of the Outpost front rack on the AWOL I would be most appreciative as I have one on my Randonee that I might consider moving to the AWOL. As an aside, when I put the rack on the Randonee I mounted my struts so I didn't have to cut them so a transfer to the AWOL shouldn't be too difficult.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

edthesped said:


> I haven't had a chance to really try to pack my tent on the rear rack but the lunch box ain't happening. I'm thinking the the tent might sandwich nicely between the rear panniers or I might try to fashion a couple of cross members to help hold the tent in place. I've looked hard at the Tubus and Racktime racks but am not able to convince myself to part with the cash as the TRX-1 is quite nice other than the narrow deck. Anyone looking for a budget rack for the AWOL would be crazy not to consider the TRX-1.
> 
> Also, if you don't mind snapping a few pics of the Outpost front rack on the AWOL I would be most appreciative as I have one on my Randonee that I might consider moving to the AWOL. As an aside, when I put the rack on the Randonee I mounted my struts so I didn't have to cut them so a transfer to the AWOL shouldn't be too difficult.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

I just loosened the right hand side strut, pushed the rack in toward the center and then tightened it back up. It now looks better than in the picture

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Is the comp worth the price difference over the standard AWOL?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

worrptangl said:


> Is the comp worth the price difference over the standard AWOL?


Yes!
You can fit 29"er tyre's 
Sram road shifter's work with Sram mountain derailleur's
Better steel

Kiwi Pete
Ps: I have a Awol and if an Awol Comp was in New Zealand last year I would have got one.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

How is the wheelset with this bike? Does it leave you wanting a custom set pretty quickly?


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

NZPeterG said:


> Yes!
> You can fit 29"er tyre's
> 
> Why can't you fit 29" tires on the regular AWOL??


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm considering getting the AWOL but I considered building but that gets me over budget. That's why I'm asking about the base AWOL. I would prefer 2x10 but I can deal.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

I really can't complain about the wheels or anything else about the bike. It's beefy and heavy. It should handle the touring I intend to do on it. No regrets.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

worrptangl said:


> I'm considering getting the AWOL but I considered building but that gets me over budget. That's why I'm asking about the base AWOL. I would prefer 2x10 but I can deal.


I built mine up for less than $1750 and got exactly what I wanted. I got a little antsy toward the end and free spent to finish it so may have been able to save a little more had I been more patient. I purchased most of the drivetrain from chain reaction cycles and that saved me a ton of money. I seriously doubt that I'd buy a stock build again as this is the first bike I've owned that I didn't want to change something as soon as i got it.

Edit: I didn't include the $130 for the brooks cambium i put on it.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

See that's the only reason I want to build it but I'm really going to have to research. Thanks for the responses.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

The stock AWOL comp is quite heavy, and with some judicious shopping and parts selection, you could build one that's lighter for less money.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm thinking I might really consider building now. 

I'm not super concerned about weight I have a Specialized Globe work 1 which is a beast and almost an exact match geometry wise. Good thing it's tax season.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

worrptangl said:


> I'm thinking I might really consider building now.
> 
> I'm not super concerned about weight I have a Specialized Globe work 1 which is a beast and almost an exact match geometry wise. Good thing it's tax season.


A good way to help you decide is to put together your dream list of components and price shop them all. Then compare your combined cost with the price of the complete bike with the changes you'll want to make. As said earlier, you can't beat English prices for drivetrain components. Also, if you're considering a Tubus front rack Wiggle has the Tubus Tara for $59 and change right now.

edit: The other upside to building is that if you're patient you can spread the cost out. I did pretty good for the first two months then sprinted to the finish line.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have been price shopping.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

I have a sizing question since I can't try one where I live but a dealer can get one in. I am 6'3" 191cm. 46. Not so flexible. Specialized would say I would be on an XL but my road bike fitting measurements would have me on an L. The overall position seems different to a road bike or should I try to match stack and reach between bikes? If I get the L my Spec dealer says I would need a 400 seat post. Any thoughts from those who have an AWOL?


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Ninox said:


> I have a sizing question since I can't try one where I live but a dealer can get one in. I am 6'3" 191cm. 46. Not so flexible. Specialized would say I would be on an XL but my road bike fitting measurements would have me on an L. The overall position seems different to a road bike or should I try to match stack and reach between bikes? If I get the L my Spec dealer says I would need a 400 seat post. Any thoughts from those who have an AWOL?


 I wouldn't try to match the stack/reach of another road bike, since the frame is designed around using a short (75mm in size L, 90mm in XL) stem and very little (if any) saddle-to-bar drop--and the handling is great with the intended setup. (I'm 5'10" and ride a medium AWOL, whose top tube is 20mm longer than I usually like on a road bike.)

The position _is_ different from that of a typical road bike, but it's actually excellent for long mixed-terrain days in the saddle, and long days in the saddle on any terrain really. The tall head tube places the bars quite a bit higher than most road setups, which then makes the drops a lot more usable than they'd be otherwise, particularly on fast dirt descents, and the brake hoods end up at a height you really appreciate after hour 4 of your day. Particularly with the limited flexibility you describe, I'd be thinking about the value of the longer head tube, knowing that I could always go down a centimeter on the stem if the reach were too long.

Also, because the XL has a 1º slacker seat tube than the L, the reach on the XL is only 5mm longer in spite of a nominally 25mm-longer ETT. And while the XL is 25mm taller in the seat tube and head tube, it's only 12mm longer in length (wheelbase).


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Ninox said:


> I have a sizing question since I can't try one where I live but a dealer can get one in. I am 6'3" 191cm. 46. Not so flexible. Specialized would say I would be on an XL but my road bike fitting measurements would have me on an L. The overall position seems different to a road bike or should I try to match stack and reach between bikes? If I get the L my Spec dealer says I would need a 400 seat post. Any thoughts from those who have an AWOL?


I'm 192.5cm and I ride an XL. Like you, my "traditional" road bikes have a significantly shorter stack and reach than my XL AWOL. The short stem length of the AWOL largely corrects for the reach difference, but the stack remains higher than my racier bikes, which I've found fine.
I debated L versus XL but ultimately decided on XL and have no regrets. Riding an L with more spacers and a longer stem would probably have been just as fine.
If you go with L, you very likely WILL need a 400mm post. The seat tube length on the L is shorter than just about any bike I own, even MTB hardtails.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

albeant said:


> Also, because the XL has a 1º slacker seat tube than the L, the reach on the XL is only 5mm longer in spite of a nominally 25mm-longer ETT. And while the XL is 25mm taller in the seat tube and head tube, it's only 12mm longer in length (wheelbase).


These are important observations. One of the biggest differences between L and XL is the effect on setback of the saddle/post: for identical saddle position relative to the BB, your seat rails on the L would need to be ~20mm further back on the seatpost cradle.
Also, on the reach parameters, if you "normalize" the stack (ie, for the large, measure the reach to the point on the fork steerer 25mm above the top of the headtube) then the difference in reach is 12mm _at the same stack_. This is the same as the difference in wheelbase of course.

One potential difference between L and XL which no one knows: is there any difference in tubing selection (wall thickness and/or butting profile)??


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

InertiaMan said:


> ... if you "normalize" the stack (ie, for the large, measure the reach to the point on the fork steerer 25mm above the top of the headtube) then the difference in reach is 12mm _at the same stack_. This is the same as the difference in wheelbase of course.


True, and well put. Thanks for adding the clarification.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

Thanks everyone. Is there a big difference between the 2014 and 2015 models? 2015 sold out in XL comp but there is 2014 around.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Just placed an order for a large AWOL comp frame. Should be here by Friday.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

Ordered the XL


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Hey I was wondering, do you guys keep your bike with racks on or do you take off your racks when you are not touring and just training/riding?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

tankhead10 said:


> Hey I was wondering, do you guys keep your bike with racks on or do you take off your racks when you are not touring and just training/riding?


I keep mine on. My theory is that the racks will help protect the bike, maybe, and that the more I screw things in and out the more likely I'll be to cross thread something. I'm curious what others think.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

I've transitioned over to bikepacking-style bags, but there's a trick to avoid buggering up the rack mounts on the frame and fork from constant mounting and unmounting: wherever possible, get some longer mounting screws, and thread them in from the inside of the mount, leaving a couple of cm or so of thread exposed. Then, you'll have little posts to mount the rack onto, and you can snug it all down with nyloc nuts. When you want to take the rack off, the bolts stay in place, and you can install some domed nuts for safety's sake.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Ninox said:


> Ordered the XL


Awesome. Maybe post up a ride report and pics once you've got it rolling.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Just picked it up last night!


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

I remember the excitement when my frame arrived... What are you going to build it up with?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I just removed a snapped screw from my Ritchey wcs trail stem and installed that. I added my easton ea70 seatpost. 

From there I'm planning on placing my first parts order next paycheck. Looking at a 2x10 mountain drive train, bb7s, salsa cowbells still deciding on wheels.


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

I also have the Cowbells on mine, and really like them... My frames delivery took so long that all my parts arrived before the frame did...


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I ordered the frame before I had the parts so I can spread it out to make it financially feasible.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I too have the cowbells and am quite pleased with them. I crashed and burned at the wheels. The whole bike was built and I was saving up for good wheels and couldn't decide which ones to buy, then i got antsy and purchased a middle of the road set. Now I'm hoping to build up a nice set at some point.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Question for those who built the comp frame up. What type of front derailleur do I need I looked in the manual buy wasn't to helpful and I re-read this thread but I only saw clamp size. Thank you

I am assuming bottom pull but low or high mount. I'm thinking low but not sure. I ride a single speed normally.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

worrptangl said:


> Question for those who built the comp frame up. What type of front derailleur do I need I looked in the manual buy wasn't to helpful and I re-read this thread but I only saw clamp size. Thank you
> 
> I am assuming bottom pull but low or high mount. I'm thinking low but not sure. I ride a single speed normally.


I'm running a 105 triple and used the standard 105 bottom pull without issue or interference.


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

worrptangl said:


> Question for those who built the comp frame up. What type of front derailleur do I need I looked in the manual buy wasn't to helpful and I re-read this thread but I only saw clamp size. Thank you
> 
> I am assuming bottom pull but low or high mount. I'm thinking low but not sure. I ride a single speed normally.












I'm running Shimano 5800 compact 11 speed groupset, so I have the 5800 FD braze-on with a Problem Solver clamp... The rear swinger is about mid point of adjustment. The tire is a Fatboy slick 29/1.7 with plenty of room for a wider tire. The FD with the chain on the small ring is still outside the rear chainstay. I had to use a couple thin rubber spacers to mount the bottle cage over the PS clamp... Not sure if this is helpful...

Problem Solvers


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Myself and my Awol, riding in the Kiwi Brevet


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

Got my frame today, after six month of waiting. But im so disappointed. I got a frame with bronze swinger dropout, bronze seat clamp and bronze headset part. Just like the complete Comp bike. 

Maybe not of a big deal for some, and i think i could live with it after six month of waiting. But when i take a closer look at the frame. It sure looks like it has already been built up once. It has marks on the dropouts from the quick release. It has blue flakes from the loctite inside the bottom bracket shell and on the seat tube it has marks from (what i think is) the brace on adapter. I think my frame has been a complete bike and later on stripped down to the frame again and been sent away to me. 

Now i sitting here and wait for my LBS to respond probably after the weekend. I was so looking forward to complete my built this weekend.


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

I would have loved to have the bronze... I am wondering if frame sales are out pacing full build AWOL Comp sales? My LBS worked with me, and my build cost was less then if I would have bought a complete AWOL Comp. I waited a few months for my frame to arrive, if I would have waited 6 months I would be giddy if Specialized and your LBS figured out a way to get you a frame. Build it, ride it, I think you will really like the bike, I know I do.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Man I got my frame in less than a wee. I waited 2 months for my Kona unit and I can't imagine 6 months. 

Speaking of builds I have the first few parts arriving this weekend into next week.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

tankhead10 said:


> NZPeterG said:
> 
> 
> > Yes!
> ...


NZPeter is noting the additional clearance/versatility you get with the adjustable dropouts on the Comp. The regular AWOL has 455mm chainstays. The Comp's Swinger dropouts adjust from 444 to 459mm. So when fully extended, the extra 4mm of chainstay length brings a slight improvement in tire clearance.

In practice, I don't think it will make a substantial difference. Maybe a 0.10" larger tire cross section.

I own a Comp, but I could see an advantage to the normal AWOL if you aren't interested in using the Swinger dropouts for a belt, or internal gear hub: you'll never have any problems with squeaky or slipping dropouts. This hasn't been a big problem area for the AWOL, but I've had a few minor issues. I can definitely imagine some issues creeping up under hard, persistent use (aka a major tour). You avoid that risk w/ the entry level model.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

nummer 2 said:


> Got my frame today, after six month of waiting. But im so disappointed. I got a frame with bronze swinger dropout, bronze seat clamp and bronze headset part. Just like the complete Comp bike.
> 
> Maybe not of a big deal for some, and i think i could live with it after six month of waiting. But when i take a closer look at the frame. It sure looks like it has already been built up once. It has marks on the dropouts from the quick release. It has blue flakes from the loctite inside the bottom bracket shell and on the seat tube it has marks from (what i think is) the brace on adapter. I think my frame has been a complete bike and later on stripped down to the frame again and been sent away to me.
> 
> Now i sitting here and wait for my LBS to respond probably after the weekend. I was so looking forward to complete my built this weekend.


That's sort of a bummer if you were expecting all black. Conceivably Specialized could have sold out of some sizes of frameset, and/or in the switch to 2015 parts specs perhaps they stripped some 2014 Comps to fill frameset orders. But the more common answer would be that your LBS did the stripping. I had a dealer offer to do that for me when I was initially looking for XL Comp framesets.

Either way, I wouldn't worry about the frame condition. If you're really fixated on the aesthetic, but want to avoid more waiting, I'd ask your LBS to get the black dropouts, seat collar and headset spacer from Specialized. Especially if Specialized did the strip, they should be reasonably willing to swap those for you at no charge . . . after all, you expected the frameset as pictured.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Awol*



InertiaMan said:


> NZPeter is noting the additional clearance/versatility you get with the adjustable dropouts on the Comp. The regular AWOL has 455mm chainstays. The Comp's Swinger dropouts adjust from 444 to 459mm. So when fully extended, the extra 4mm of chainstay length brings a slight improvement in tire clearance.
> 
> In practice, I don't think it will make a substantial difference. Maybe a 0.10" larger tire cross section.
> 
> I own a Comp, but I could see an advantage to the normal AWOL if you aren't interested in using the Swinger dropouts for a belt, or internal gear hub: you'll never have any problems with squeaky or slipping dropouts. This hasn't been a big problem area for the AWOL, but I've had a few minor issues. I can definitely imagine some issues creeping up under hard, persistent use (aka a major tour). You avoid that risk w/ the entry level model.


Hi thanks for that, i'm looking to put the STD parts back on and sale my Awol :eekster: Buy a Salsa Fargo and sticker it up as a Awol!
Because after riding my Awol in the Kiwi Brevet (riding the short Brevette 730 odd km's) I have worked out that I need to run bigger tyres (like 2.3" or 2.4" x 29er) and there is no way to fit them into a STD Awol :madman:
With a Fargo I can run my Rohloff gearhub with a OEM1 mount (which I like better then the OEM2 that will fit the still to come (late 2015) Awol Comp Swinger dropouts.
I'm sad to have to sale my Awol but I need the bigger tyre's for the next Brevet in New Zealand. 
The Kiwi Brevet is 50/50 on/off road riding and a load of fun 

Kiwi Pete 

.


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

It dont know this, but i think my order got lost in someway in the first place. I had and mail conversation with my onlineLBS before i order it in Aug 2014. And they said that the delivery date will be i Nov 2014. I mailed them again in the end of Sep to check if everything runs as plan after i saw that my money was back on my account. After couple of day i got an answer that the frame will come in Jan 2015 instead. In January the date changes from 16 of Jan to 29 of Jan and in the end i was delivered 13 of Feb. Friday 13 actually. 

But i dont think the onlineLBS did the stripping cos they haven't had any complete bikes either and on the box it says Black/Black. The shipping label says that it was delivered to Sweden from the Europe stock only a week earlier. 

My request to the onlineLBS is tho send me the replace parts, cos i dont like waiting on a new frame. Will see what they say on Monday.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

nummer 2 said:


> It dont know this, but i think my order got lost in someway in the first place. I had and mail conversation with my onlineLBS before i order it in Aug 2014. And they said that the delivery date will be i Nov 2014. I mailed them again in the end of Sep to check if everything runs as plan after i saw that my money was back on my account. After couple of day i got an answer that the frame will come in Jan 2015 instead. In January the date changes from 16 of Jan to 29 of Jan and in the end i was delivered 13 of Feb. Friday 13 actually.
> 
> But i dont think the onlineLBS did the stripping cos they haven't had any complete bikes either and on the box it says Black/Black. The shipping label says that it was delivered to Sweden from the Europe stock only a week earlier.
> 
> My request to the onlineLBS is tho send me the replace parts, cos i dont like waiting on a new frame. Will see what they say on Monday.


Too bad you aren't stateside. I'd rather have the gold than the black.


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

Yes it is. 


To the ones who bought the frameset. Was your starnut already installed?


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

nummer 2 said:


> Yes it is.
> 
> To the ones who bought the frameset. Was your starnut already installed?


No, I had to install mine.


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

Ok, another evidence that my bike is an "old" complete bike. Mine was already installed.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi thanks for that, i'm looking to put the STD parts back on and sale my Awol :eekster: Buy a Salsa Fargo and sticker it up as a Awol!
> Because after riding my Awol in the Kiwi Brevet (riding the short Brevette 730 odd km's) I have worked out that I need to run bigger tyres (like 2.3" or 2.4" x 29er) and there is no way to fit them into a STD Awol :madman:
> With a Fargo I can run my Rohloff gearhub with a OEM1 mount (which I like better then the OEM2 that will fit the still to come (late 2015) Awol Comp Swinger dropouts.
> I'm sad to have to sale my Awol but I need the bigger tyre's for the next Brevet in New Zealand.
> ...


This was one of the 2 reasons I went with a Fargo over the AWOL. the AWOL is an awesome bike into itself, but it is a road bike that is burly, whereas aFargo is a MTB, with MTB tire clearance and MTB drivetrain. I have 2.2" tires on my Fargo with room to spare.

I still might get an AWOL and roll with 35c tires for more road riding, I really like the AWOL quite a bit


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Gracias amigo. )



InertiaMan said:


> NZPeter is noting the additional clearance/versatility you get with the adjustable dropouts on the Comp. The regular AWOL has 455mm chainstays. The Comp's Swinger dropouts adjust from 444 to 459mm. So when fully extended, the extra 4mm of chainstay length brings a slight improvement in tire clearance.
> 
> In practice, I don't think it will make a substantial difference. Maybe a 0.10" larger tire cross section.
> 
> I own a Comp, but I could see an advantage to the normal AWOL if you aren't interested in using the Swinger dropouts for a belt, or internal gear hub: you'll never have any problems with squeaky or slipping dropouts. This hasn't been a big problem area for the AWOL, but I've had a few minor issues. I can definitely imagine some issues creeping up under hard, persistent use (aka a major tour). You avoid that risk w/ the entry level model.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

nummer 2 said:


> Ok, another evidence that my bike is an "old" complete bike. Mine was already installed.


I would return it. My steerer came uncut with star nut lose. I like to leave my steerer uncut so i would be upset to put it mildly if I were you. Who knows what happened that they choose to strip it down and sell you just the frame.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

InertiaMan said:


> NZPeter is noting the additional clearance/versatility you get with the adjustable dropouts on the Comp. The regular AWOL has 455mm chainstays. The Comp's Swinger dropouts adjust from 444 to 459mm. So when fully extended, the extra 4mm of chainstay length brings a slight improvement in tire clearance.
> 
> In practice, I don't think it will make a substantial difference. Maybe a 0.10" larger tire cross section.
> 
> I own a Comp, but I could see an advantage to the normal AWOL if you aren't interested in using the Swinger dropouts for a belt, or internal gear hub: you'll never have any problems with squeaky or slipping dropouts. This hasn't been a big problem area for the AWOL, but I've had a few minor issues. I can definitely imagine some issues creeping up under hard, persistent use (aka a major tour). You avoid that risk w/ the entry level model.


 I had one swinger come loose on my first ride, I didn't think to adjust or check it when I first built up the bike. I just slapped the wheel on and rode. I adjusted and tightened the swingers and haven't had an issue since. I have pretty much looked at my swingers after every ride and also wonder if they'll go out of adjustment again.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

This is the reason I had no interest in getting the frameset and building from there. 10 years ago I always would buy top of the line and lightest. Now that I am old and fat it doesn't matter that much to me. It's about riding not fiddling.


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

Renegade Tires - 
Perhaps more AWOL riders are using these tires than it appears. Either way I highly recommend them for 29er on/off road adventure / tour

I use the Renegade Control 2blis 1.8" - with tubes in able to air up into 55-60 psi for pavement down 35-40 psi off road

They ate fast on road with no road hum noise. Great feel to them. Good on wet pavement (for a XCM tire) low knobs with micro sipe between that transition Very smoothly , pattern, various heights. Incredible on hard pack dirt, gravel fire/forest roads, good in snow - poor in mud - clog and hold it via the same micro sipe that helps other

I used it as a front on my 29er on/off touring bike and was so impressed with its roll and feel , added a rear

Future, I am adding tuffy ultra lite liners for added security and I may go 2.0" on the front

Just thought I would share with those whom ride simular


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

Update about the frameset with bronze parts:

My online bikeshop confirmed that specializes wasn't able to deliver a frame in size M to me. Therefore they stripped a complete bike and send it to me instead.
Me and my online bikeshop have now agreed to give me 20% discount on the frame and have sent me the black parts which arrived today. 

Time to start build my bike up!


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

Here is a quick pic of mine. I'm working with a local bag maker to dial in a frame pack bag for it. Just a couple more tweaks and it's perfect.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

iStone said:


> Here is a quick pic of mine. I'm working with a local bag maker to dial in a frame pack bag for it. Just a couple more tweaks and it's perfect.


Details please!


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

His name is Andrew and he's located here in Kansas City.

http://atmhandmadegoods.com/

@andrewthemaker on instagram


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Could you get some close up pictures? Price if I may ask?


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

I'll get some pics for you tomorrow. Contact him for pricing at [email protected]


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Awesome thank you!

What size is your AWOL?


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## dremags (Apr 5, 2007)

Thanks for the shout! The best thing to do is email me as there are a number of options that will change the price. I will be having a standard bag made if there is enough interest.



iStone said:


> I'll get some pics for you tomorrow. Contact him for pricing at [email protected]


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

worrptangl said:


> Awesome thank you!
> 
> What size is your AWOL?


Large


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Sweet I have a large also!


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

Here are a few quick pics


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

So how does the strap on the downtube interact with the front derailleur cable and the housing braze on?


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

worrptangl said:


> How is the wheelset with this bike? Does it leave you wanting a custom set pretty quickly?


Mine is new. I have no problems with the wheel set at this stage but have done <200km so far. I have abused them (jumps, hard falls) and no problems. My initial impression is that the bike is very good value for the money. The wheels are very nice looking. They say AWOL wheels on them. I suspect they are some other wheel in the Specialized family like Rovals. A new amazing wheel set might cost me 25-50 to even 100% the cost of the bike.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

The strap just goes right over it. Doesn't lose any function of the cables. The next one I think we're going to try and shorten the front of the bag up a bit and see if a cable can be squeezed in front of the braze ons for a cleaner look.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Guess I should have read this before I emailed him asking if he any thoughts about that.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I got the ok from the other half to tap into our PCS funds as long as I reimburse them. so I ordered my wheelset, tires, cassette, chain, rear derailleur and cables n housings. Hopefully next weekend will be a build and shakedown ride weekend!!!!


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## kward541 (Jan 1, 2013)

I'm running SKS Blumels B53 fenders (AWOL Comp) which fit snug around a 47c Trigger Sport. I test fit a set of SKS Chromoplastic P50s over the 42c Triggers and it looked like they would fit snug.
Not sure, but I believe the Chromoplastic might be a tougher fender than the Blumels.
You'll have to decide what to do with the your left stay clearing the disc caliper.


edthesped said:


> Anyone know of a decent pair of fenders for this that will take 42+ tires?


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## hefeweizan (Aug 24, 2011)

Any riding their tires tubeless?


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## craiger24 (Dec 10, 2014)

hefeweizan said:


> Any riding their tires tubeless?


Yes, but not on the stock rims. I have Stans Notube Grail rims with the Specialized Fatboy slick 700/45 tires. I am running the rear tire between 36 & 38 psi and the front tire 34 to 36 psi. It is winter here so I only have about 150 miles on this setup, but that mileage has been on rough chipseal, gravel, dirt and a couple short sections of mud. I was very pleased on the ride quality on all the surfaces with the exception of the mud surface.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

So my AWOL is complete! I will post pictures and a build list tomorrow. Rides like a dream.


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## nummer 2 (Jan 21, 2015)

Im finished aswell.

Frame - Specialized Awol Comp 
Handelbar bag - Poler Camera Cooler 
Pannier bag - Ortlieb Roller City 20L 
Bottles - Tacx Shiva 
Tubes - Continental Cross 28 
Bartape - Ritchey Pro Logic Cork 
Cabels - Jagwire Road Pro XL 
Pannier rack- Tubus Tara 
Water bottle cage - Tacx Uni 
Aerobars - Deda Parabolica Due 
Stem - ITM Alutech 
Saddle - Selle italia Q-Bik Flow 
Handelbar - FSA Omega Compact 
Tire - Specialized Fatboy 700x45C 
Breaks - Avid BB7 Road 
Wheel - Kinesis Crosslight Disc V3 
Crankset - Shimano 105 5800 
Rear derailleur - Shimano 105 5800 
Chain - Shimano 105 11-delat 
Front derailleur - Shimano 105 5800 
Cassette - Shimano 105 5800 11-32 
STI - Shimano 105 5800 
Bottombraket - Shimano Ultegra 6800


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Frame - Specialized Awol Comp Large
Bar tape - Specialized S-wrap HD tape
Cables - Jagwire Road Pro XL 
Water bottle cage - Specialized Zee cage R/L Matte black
Stem - Ritchey WCS Trail 80mm
Saddle - Brooks B17
Seatpost - Easton EA70
Handelbar - Salsa Cowbell 3 46cm
Tire - Schwalbe Mondial 40C Double Defense
Breaks - Avid BB7 Road 
Wheel - Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs, Stan's Arch EX and Sapim Race spokes
Crankset - SRAM X9 42/28
Rear derailleur - SRAM X9 Type 2.1 Medium cage
Chain - KMC X10-93
Front derailleur - SRAM X9
Cassette - Shimano XT 11-34
STI - SRAM Apex
BB - SRAM
Pedals - TBD currently wearing CB 5050 from my grocery getter

Odds n Ends - K-Edge Garmin (en route), Lezyne Pressure drive pump, Custom frame bag on order, Timbuk2 Bento goody bag (not shown)

So far I have about 16 miles on it and I love it. Rides amazing. I'm not trying to break any speed records but it does hold 20 pretty well. I had the LBS install the front derailleur and just give my first build a once over.

So happy with the bike!


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Awol Gone Far*

Hi All
Well I had fun riding my *Awol* all over thanks to *Specialized* for this bike but I finded that on the long bump dirt roads riding that a 2.1" rear tyre was to small to help with the bumps?

So my *Awol *is sold (to a good home) and i'm going to be riding a 29 plus bike for my next *Bikepacking* trips 

*Kiwi Pete*


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

I finally found an XL in real life. A 2014 Comp for 25% off too. Felt great till I tried to put the seat up high enough......So the search continues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lucky99 (Dec 21, 2011)

Hi, I don't have experience about road bike sizing and a little bit confused. I'm 6.1 ft with 35" inseam and 6.3 ft span. which mean I have a short torso. what size awol should I buy? I'm considering M because 600mm horizontal top tube (Large Awol) + 75mm stem + bar would be to long for me. I'm currently riding full suspension MTB with 600mm horizontal top tube + 65mm stem (780mm bar) and it fits perfectly.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

lucky99 said:


> Hi, I don't have experience about road bike sizing and a little bit confused. I'm 6.1 ft with 35" inseam and 6.3 ft span. which mean I have a short torso. what size awol should I buy? I'm considering M because 600mm horizontal top tube (Large Awol) + 75mm stem + bar would be to long for me. I'm currently riding full suspension MTB with 600mm horizontal top tube + 65mm stem (780mm bar) and it fits perfectly.


Hi 
Go to your *LBS* and ask about your fit.
I would say your a Large size *Awol*
The Awol's do have a long top tube but are designed to be run with a short stem and the longer top tube is to help not having Toe over lap!
Have Fun and go Ride one 

_*Kiwi Pete*_

.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

I agree with NZPeter - you have to go to your LBS. I was in a similar position. 6'3" and I thought a wanted an L but the local Specialized dealer showed me that XL was definitely better for me. For one thing I would not be able to put the seat post high enough on an L. The bike I have is not too long and in super comfortable. I would think you are an L.


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## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

To all current AWOL riders, how does the frame copes with a load?
By that I mean rack and panniers
Thanks


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Ze_Zaskar said:


> To all current AWOL riders, how does the frame copes with a load?
> By that I mean rack and panniers
> Thanks


Hi yes a light load.
The Awol is designed to have most of the load up front off the forks. 
A light load is like 40 kg's plus rider. 
;-)

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Agree, at least for the AWOL Comp, which is the one I've ridden. Before my first tour on the frame, I tried it in a few configurations: full rear panniers on a Tubus cargo rear rack (rack sized for 26" so it sat nice and low), the same rear panniers on a Tubus lowrider front rack, and a bikepacking setup without racks. The frame flex with just the rear panniers really had my attention, enough to keep me from wanting to get out of the saddle. With the panniers up front, the bike felt great out of the saddle, and very good in the saddle too. Steering is of course heavier, but negligible flex. My preference overall is for the bikepacking setup because it provides the most neutral handling, but as long as you're not rocking heavy _rear_ panniers, it handles well and feels great on the road.

For a four-pannier-plus-handlebar-bag traditional setup, I'd probably look elsewhere, like at the LHT. But at the same time, a load that heavy makes riding a lot less fun, and LHT-style tank-bikes don't ride as well as the AWOL once you start carrying less.


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## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for the help guys,

Unfortunatelly I need lots of load carrying capabilities. My current bike is preciselly a "tank like" LHT and one of the things I love about it is how it handles with weight


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

You AWOL'ers seen the new for this year Trigger's in 47/1.85" ? ----> Yummy 

My fav. tread for dirt tour,multi use just got bigger,more cushy.

So I had to have them.

They measure a little small,brand new at 60psi - more like 45


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks I missed the new tyre!


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

NZPeterG said:


> Thanks I missed the new tyre!
> 
> 
> Kiwi Pete from the road


Pete they are hard to find because they don't have them properly listed

Spesh web>Bike Equip>Road Tires>CX Tires>Trigger Sport> Then see the drop down menu because they are not properly listed with the others below yet. I had to call S to see if it was real or what. Yep 
BTW- they are 595g weight if your wondering

Take care ~ "mate" as they say in New Zealand


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Ha ha thanks ☺
Mate! is Australia not NZ. It's like the USA is part of Canada 😊
I'll have to check if we have them in NEW ZEALAND? 
Thanks again

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

I ran the trigger 47's at 32 psi F and 37 psi rear today on single and dual track along with fire/forest service roads. I am 180 pounds and did not have a problem, no pinch flats over roots and rocks.

I have noticed the trigger is a bit stiffer than the Renegade 1.8" 2bliss,same psi both with tubes yet, it definitely rolls faster on pavement,chip seal even well packed forest service roads. I suppose it's the carcass , sidewalls ???

It was still bouncier than ideal for single track climbs over roots and rocks, decent same = slow,technical pick your spots........which also made it fun,challenging,interesting rather than just bombing over everything.

The only area of difficulty was in mud, with an incline where I would loose traction and spin out. Yet, horizontal or descending mud was surprisingly fine.

"Multi use" - typically has few highlights and substantial "pretty good at". Yet, one highlight this tire has = it is very fast on well packed,dirt , single lane forest service roads~


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## Ricardo Hudsioni (May 2, 2015)

Hi all. "Excited", just doesn't describe how I'm feeling. I'm getting my AWOL on Tuesday May 5th and can't sleep with anticipation. Some fettling to set up on Tuesday and brief test run; 40 mile commute on Wednesday, then a 90 mile, mixed surface ride on Thursday. Did I say how excited I am?  Reading this part of the forum is just feeding my anticipated addiction to this machine


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

*Fenders / mudguards*

I was going to put some fenders/ mudguards on my AWOL. Currently using stock 700x41 tyres but would like the option to go wider.
I was thinking bertoud 60mm or velo orange. Has anyone encountered any fender pitfalls so far? My steerer has a drill hole for fender placement.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

No just go for it.
The Awol is a standard design. 
☺

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

Would it be too risky to put 50mm fenders (fatboy 700x45 and renegade 700x41 tyres) or is this too narrow? (I have a slight desire for snakeskin fenders)


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Fenders should be at least 10mm wider than your tires. When in doubt, go with wider fenders or narrower tires.

Also, if you want to run racks and fenders, be prepared to get creative with the fender stay position/angle.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Hey guys

I need to replace my stem with a 75 mm from 80 mm and have more positive rise maybe over ten percent due to hands going numb. Does anyone know the rise on our stock stems?n tanks


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

The stock stem should be 6º rise. If you go with a high-rise stem, like somewhere in the range of 30º, the overall reach will drop significantly for a given stem length.


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## seat_boy (May 16, 2006)

The best stem comparison tool I've found is here:

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks for all of that. So if I get a 15 degree rise at 80 mm, I should be up and back a bit? Correct?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Go into your LBS and ask about you fit.

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## hillharman (Sep 8, 2011)

What's the biggest tire people are running on this bike? Do Ikons or Ardents fit?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi 2.2 front and 2.1 rear.
Only thing is that the base Awol needs a mtb crankset or a 2x road crankset. 
To run the 2.1 rear.
The comp is 100% ok with the bigger tyres. 

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

The WTB Nano 2.1 are a high-volume 2.1, and I've fit them on the AWOL with Velocity Blunts without a problem. I've also used Small Block 8 2.1's, which are shorter in height than the Nano 2.1, so they fit with plenty of room, and with the pronounced shoulder knobs they corner well on dirt.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

albeant said:


> The WTB Nano 2.1 are a high-volume 2.1, and I've fit them on the AWOL with Velocity Blunts without a problem. I've also used Small Block 8 2.1's, which are shorter in height than the Nano 2.1, so they fit with plenty of room, and with the pronounced shoulder knobs they corner well on dirt.


Can you still use fenders when you run a tyre like this?


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Ninox said:


> Can you still use fenders when you run a tyre like this?


Unfortunately, no. Part of the issue is the fork height; there's not much room under the crown with a 29er tire.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Hello guys, I just bought an Awol (not the Elite sadly).

So now I'm like many of us were doing, I'm looking for a suitable front (preferably a low rider rack) and rear rack that fit easily in and can carry Ortlieb classic bag.

So what do you recommend from your riding and experience?

Thank you

(sorry for my English)


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

Loved my AWOL, but it's just not the bike for me. I like to go fast and race cross. Not enough time for gravel or bike camping. It's for sale with all bags, a custom frame bag and handlebar bag.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

Papanowel said:


> Hello guys, I just bought an Awol (not the Elite sadly).
> 
> So now I'm like many of us were doing, I'm looking for a suitable front (preferably a low rider rack) and rear rack that fit easily in and can carry Ortlieb classic bag.
> 
> ...


The Specialized Pizza Rack that comes stock on the Poler edition AWOL's will be released this June from Specialized. I highly recommend it.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I want the fenders that come on the elite. Unfortunately s has no intentions of putting them in the retail chain. I guess if you have an elite and bork uo your fender you're f'ed.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

iStone said:


> The Specialized Pizza Rack that comes stock on the Poler edition AWOL's will be released this June from Specialized. I highly recommend it.


Thank you for the info, I will wait for it then.
I hope it will be available in Europe.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

I hope it's available in Australia as well.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

I'm looking at the standard AWOL and AWOL Comp. I've test rode so I know I need a large. A couple of questions.

Is the AWOL Comp steel an upgrade over the standard AWOL?

I see that the Comp is 2 x 10 and has SRAM shifting. Are the wheels and crankset and upgrade of the standard AWOL?

Is the Comp noticeably lighter than the standard?

Anyone converted the wheelset to tubeless?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

The steel on the comp is Reynolds 725/520. The big thing is that the frame has a splittable drive-side seat stay and swing dropouts, allowing you to run a belt drive and IGH (the 2016 model will have a Rohloff dropout available), the swing in the dropouts allowing you to tension chains.

I guess it sort of depends on your preferences (SRAM vs. Shimano), but I think the SRAM components on the comp are better than the Shimano Sora components on the base model.

I am considering building up a comp frame with the new Salsa Cowchipper bars on it and a Shimano 105 compact group set. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you need a compact road crankset, like a 50/34, to run full 29x2.1 tires, as the lower models with Sora have 700x42c tires, allowing for clearance with the triple chain ring.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

So it sounds like between the two frames there wouldn't be any kind of weight difference?

I don't know anything about the difference between 725 and 520.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Reyolds 725 is supposed to be a heat-treated version of 520, so all else being the same, it will be stronger. 725 would allow for a lighter frame at the same strength, or a stronger frame with the same tubing profiles. I have no idea which is the case for the AWOL.

Actually, info from Specialized's site on the frameset materials is a little jumbled:

AWOL X Poler
FRAME: Fully butted premium Cr-Mo, heat treated
FORK: Butted premium Cr-Mo, unicrown, heat treated

AWOL Comp
FRAME: Reynolds 725/520 premium Cr-Mo, fully butted, custom SWINGER dropouts...
FORK: Cr-Mo, unicrown, custom blade curve, w/ integrated cast dropouts

AWOL & AWOL Elite
FRAME: Reynolds premium Cr-Mo, fully butted
FORK: Cr-Mo, unicrown, custom blade curve, w/ integrated cast dropouts

So, the Comp's front triangle is 725, which is heat treated, but the Poler edition is also described as heat treated, suggesting that it's 725 too. Moreover, the forks for all but the Poler edition are described identically, but for the Poler it's described as heat treated.

I wonder how much of this is simply language to differentiate different price points, and how much actually represents differences among the framesets.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

Thanks for that albeant. I had picked up a standard AWOL and was considering exchanging it for the comp as that is available, but if there isn't much difference in frames I'll stick with the standard since I don't need the dropouts.

I don't care much about the component differences other than the 2 x 10 and if the wheels were different but it seems they are not. I'd just assume buy a wheel upgrade instead of swapping for comp.

Any recommendations on wheels with the similar width?


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

And to make matters worse, one of the AWOL's designers describes the Poler edition as an "AWOL 1" frame, with no mention of heat treatment:

Frame: AWOL 1 frame, Custom double butted and formed Cr-Mo tubing, custom cast dropouts... 
Fork: AWOL Unicrown fork, all Cr-Mo, custom leg bend/butting...

Erik's Awol x Poler Outback Tourer - The Radavist

Maybe the only difference between all the editions is the dropouts.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

trailbrain said:


> Any recommendations on wheels with the similar width?


Velocity Blunts are a just about perfect for the AWOL. Mine weighed about 455 grams each, which is lighter than some Mavic clincher road rims I've had, and they're nice and wide at 28mm. There's also the new Blunt SS, which is 30mm wide and supposedly lighter still.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

What I don't like about the Awol & Elite are the huge chainrings, it's way too much for a touring bike. I'm thinking about changing it for something like a 24/32/39.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

Agreed. I've been using the SRAM 120/80 2x spider, which has been great. Ring options are 26/39 and 28/42.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Papanowel said:


> What I don't like about the Awol & Elite are the huge chainrings, it's way too much for a touring bike. I'm thinking about changing it for something like a 24/32/39.


I agree on the poor suitability of the chainrings for the actual terrain this bike is targeted for. But its challenging to change to smaller rings, and in defense of Specialized product managers, its equally challenging to spec a suitable crankset on a new bike. I suspect that part of the reason they give us crappy ring sizes is that they have little or no viable alternative.

Their are plenty of MTB cranksets that provide appropriate chainrings, but the problem is finding a front derailleur to shift them well. The chainline and ring sizes of MTB cranksets are completely mismatched to road front derailleurs, and MTB front derailleurs are mismatched to road shifters w.r.t. cable pull ratios.

There are some possible SRAM combinations that can work, but SRAM doesn't do any triple road shifters.

So to Papanowel I would ask: what crank will you use that can support 24/32/39 and stay compatible with triple road shifters/derailleurs?? Unless you want to revert to square spindle bottom brackets, I'm not aware of any.

What the world needs is a Shimano front triple derailleur matched to MTB crankset chainlines/ring-size but with a cable pull ratio to match the road shifters. Its not rocket science to accomplish. A seattube clamp mount for a braze-on FD that is offset by 5mm, matched to a road triple FD forging, but with a MTB triple cage, would do it. Shimano wouldn't even need to invest in new forgings. Worst case a new cage of stamped steel, big deal.

Instead, the least-worst solution seems to be using a MTB crankset with road FD and road shifters and trying to get the FD adjustment tweaked so that your shifting is functional but hardly good. Certainly not the quality of front shifting that any product manager is willing to spec on a new bike.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

InertiaMan said:


> I agree on the poor suitability of the chainrings for the actual terrain this bike is targeted for. But its challenging to change to smaller rings, and in defense of Specialized product managers, its equally challenging to spec a suitable crankset on a new bike. I suspect that part of the reason they give us crappy ring sizes is that they have little or no viable alternative.
> 
> Their are plenty of MTB cranksets that provide appropriate chainrings, but the problem is finding a front derailleur to shift them well. The chainline and ring sizes of MTB cranksets are completely mismatched to road front derailleurs, and MTB front derailleurs are mismatched to road shifters w.r.t. cable pull ratios.
> 
> ...


Someone told me to try a wide spacing clamp to help with the chainline

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FF4CHUW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1EFR91T441T75


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

edthesped said:


> Someone told me to try a wide spacing clamp to help with the chainline
> 
> SRAM Braze-on Adapter Wide Spacing 31.8 | Amazon.com: Outdoor Recreation


That's the right idea, but since they don't spec the offset I can't tell if its enough offset to make a major difference.

Santana makes one with 5mm offset which they sell for $30. They make it because their rear tandem hubs offset the chainline way out, so they use wide bottom brackets and offset front derailleurs to accommodate. You can order directly from them, or from some tandem-centric shops.

Problem Solvers makes some FD mounts that are REALLY offset for use w/ fatbikes, but they will only accept direct mount FDs and I'm not aware of direct mount road FDs.


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## CProffitt (Jun 5, 2015)

*New to thread.*

Hey guys! Just bought a new 2015 Specialized AWOL Elite. I have been adding a few things here and there. Here are some photos.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

Or this one:

FSA front derailleur clamp for tandems, 34.9/31.8 - Parts - Derailleurs - Components

They don't spec the offset but in theory it should be 5mm.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

InertiaMan said:


> That's the right idea, but since they don't spec the offset I can't tell if its enough offset to make a major difference.
> 
> Santana makes one with 5mm offset which they sell for $30. They make it because their rear tandem hubs offset the chainline way out, so they use wide bottom brackets and offset front derailleurs to accommodate. You can order directly from them, or from some tandem-centric shops.
> 
> Problem Solvers makes some FD mounts that are REALLY offset for use w/ fatbikes, but they will only accept direct mount FDs and I'm not aware of direct mount road FDs.


Wide spacing for 47.5 chainline

From amazon description.

Any link for the Santana one?


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

edthesped said:


> Wide spacing for 47.5 chainline
> 
> From amazon description.


Right. But that's not the offset. Just the intended chainline. So is it 2.5mm offset from normal to space a FD intended for 45mm triple road chainline out to 47.5?? Or is it 4mm offset from normal, to space a FD intended for 43.5mm double road chainline out to 47.5mm?? <EDIT - removed non-applicable reference>

My point is that we don't know. But given that they say its for 47.5mm and we want it for 50mm, I lean away from this choice unless we find quantified dimensions to counter it.

You can call Santana Tandems and they'll do it over the phone. Or try here Gear-To-Go Tandem Bicycles but first confirm that the Santana clamps they list are indeed the offset ones (my understanding is that Santana ONLY has the offset ones, but I'm not certain).


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

On further thought, SRAM makes ONLY double road FD's and not triples, and in looking at their specs online, their default chainline is 45mm for Red and 46mm for all the other models. Since this 47.5mm clamp is described as "Red" it is probably offset 2.5mm.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

InertiaMan said:


> Right. But that's not the offset. Just the intended chainline. So is it 2.5mm offset from normal to space a FD intended for 45mm triple road chainline out to 47.5?? Or is it 4mm offset from normal, to space a FD intended for 43.5mm double road chainline out to 47.5mm?? Or is for some single ring road application with unique chainline for SRAM CX1 or something.


SRAM makes this clamp for the S900/950 "wide" crankset, which is native for 73mm bb shells (which would make sense on the AWOL and other monster cross frames). The normal S900 has a 44.5mm chainline, like other SRAM road cranksets, so the offset on the 47.5mm-chainline clamp should be 3mm.

FWIW, I have an S950 "wide" crankset on my AWOL, and it shifts perfectly with a Force front derailleur bolted to a normal-offset 31.8 clamp (w/ shim obviously).


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

InertiaMan said:


> So to Papanowel I would ask: what crank will you use that can support 24/32/39 and stay compatible with triple road shifters/derailleurs?? Unless you want to revert to square spindle bottom brackets, I'm not aware of any.


I'm not an expert at all, I simply don't know. I just want to find a cheap solution and possibly one that fits perfectly on a touring bike use. If you have a better option, I'm all ears open


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Before SRAM announced the new Rival1/Force1 groups, I was considering running their XX 42/28 cranks with an 11-32 cassette (10s). Since the company's 10s road and MTB bits work/play well with one another, mixing shifters and derailleurs wouldn't have been a problem.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Before SRAM announced the new Rival1/Force1 groups, I was considering running their XX 42/28 cranks with an 11-32 cassette (10s). Since the company's 10s road and MTB bits work/play well with one another, mixing shifters and derailleurs wouldn't have been a problem.


I'd considered the XX option too, mostly to get the Q-factor down from the X9 crankset I'd originally installed, but I ended up putting a 120/80 spider on the S950 crankset, which has a lower Q-factor still.

The 120/80 spider may be pointless for most MTB, but it's perfect (for me) for monstercross/mixed surface/touring. I use the 42/28 setup for unloaded day rides, and switch to 39/26 for loaded mountain tours. With a 11-36 cassette, it allows plenty of low gearing without resorting to a 3x setup.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

albeant said:


> I'd considered the XX option too, mostly to get the Q-factor down from the X9 crankset I'd originally installed, but I ended up putting a 120/80 spider on the S950 crankset, which has a lower Q-factor still.
> 
> The 120/80 spider may be pointless for most MTB, but it's perfect (for me) for monstercross/mixed surface/touring. I use the 42/28 setup for unloaded day rides, and switch to 39/26 for loaded mountain tours. With a 11-36 cassette, it allows plenty of low gearing without resorting to a 3x setup.
> 
> View attachment 995227


Good info--thanks. Time to check out the S950 crankset.

My Force1 long-cage derailleur should be here in a few days along with the new 10-42 GX (11s) cassette. Going to run it with a 42 or 44 X-Sync chainring on Force (CX1) cranks.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Good info--thanks. Time to check out the S950 crankset.
> 
> My Force1 long-cage derailleur should be here in a few days along with the new 10-42 GX (11s) cassette. Going to run it with a 42 or 44 X-Sync chainring on Force (CX1) cranks.


The S950/S900 crankset is a good option, but it's not the only one. Just about any SRAM road crankset with a bolt-on spider should work. I think all the carbon models are compatible with the X0 spider, and the Rival with the X9 spider.

I mentioned above that I have the S950 "wide," which provides a 47.5mm chainline for 135mm spacing instead of the standard 44.5mm for 130mm spacing, but as long as you're ok with the chainline, the standard road crankset would provide the lowest Q-factor and ideal front-derailleur setup.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

The base Awol does not have 520 tubing. Just some cromo tubeset. If I did it again, I'd get the Premium tubeset.

Also, the Pizza Rack will only be available in countries that sold the AWOL.


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## CProffitt (Jun 5, 2015)

*New to thread*

Hey everyone. I'm excited to see everyone's AWOL on here. Just wanted to share mine. -Chris


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## marcmkkoy (Jun 14, 2015)

I'm looking at the Comp and like the idea of the retro shifters for touring, but the LBS recommends keeping the SRAM shifters until that time. I also want them to swap the BB7S for Tektro Spyre dual piston calipers. I hear not-good things about the FSA Gossamer crank as well. Any problems with that component?

I had pulled the trigger last week on a purchase and when I got home and did some more reading I heard about the crank and decided to postpone. I really like the AWOL and have considered the Vaya 2, which rode well, but I thought was no more peppier than the Comp. I like the idea of Shimano 105 on the Vaya, but the versatility of the Comp.

LBS has the Vaya 2 (2014 model) which retails for about $1950 marked down to $1500. For the money, I'm inclined towards the Vaya 2, but really like the Comp. When I initially rode the Vaya 2 there was some chain skipping on the crank rings and the mechanic took a file to a couple of teeth saying there were "burs" and it fixed the problem. Not sure I like the idea of that fix and not sure if that may in some way compromised the crank rings. I thought if the crank had "burs" then Shimano should replace it, but he said this was a common "field fix".

Model-year-to-model-year, the bikes are the same price. So, do I pick a 2014 Vaya 2 for $500 less (with a filed ring gear) or do I go with the AWOL Comp and add the retro shifters when I decide to take it touring? The only other concern is, the Vaya 2 is a triple and I'm not sure the Comp (with road double) can provide the low gears for loaded hills. I guess I could always change out the cassette depending on my use.

Thoughts?


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## marcmkkoy (Jun 14, 2015)

I'm looking at the Comp and like the idea of the retro shifters for touring, but the LBS recommends keeping the SRAM shifters until that time. I also want them to swap the BB7S for Tektro Spyre dual piston calipers. I hear not-good things about the FSA Gossamer crank as well. I had pulled the trigger last week on a purchase and when I got home and did some more reading I heard about the crank and decided to postpone. I really like the AWOL and have considered the Vaya 2, which rode well, but I thought was no more peppier than the Comp. I like the idea of Shimano 105 on the Vaya, but the versatility of the Comp.

LBS has the Vaya 2 (2014 model) which retails for about &1950 marked down to $1500. For the money, I'm inclined towards the Vaya 2, but really like the Comp. When I initially rode the Vaya 2 there was some chain skipping on the crank rings and the mechanic took a file to a couple of teeth saying there were "burs" and it fixed the problem. Not sure I like the idea of that fix and not sure if that may in some way compromised the crank rings. I thought if the crank had "burs" then Shimano should replace it, but he said this was a common "field fix".

Model-year-to-model-year, the bikes are the same price. So, do I pick a 2014 Vaya 2 for $500 less (with a filed ring gear) or do I go with the AWOL Comp and add the retro shifters when I decide to take it touring? The only other concern is, the Vaya 2 is a triple and I'm not sure the Comp (with road double) can provide the low gears for loaded hills. I guess I could always change out the cassette depending on my use.

Thoughts?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Does anyone have a 2015 AWOL Comp? If so does it still say "Handmade in Tiawan"? I have a 2014 Comp frameset and recently had a foreign object in the front wheel which bent my fork. Specialized was kind enough to give a replacement fork but the overall quality of the replacement fork isn't as nice as the original, not that I'm looking a gift horse in the mouth or anything. But the right mid fork lug is several degrees off center and a couple of the lower fender/rack lugs are also a bit skewed. Also, the paint job on the replacement isn't nearly as nice as the one on the original either. 

The steerer tube on the original was smooth and was stamped "Song Zun" in the middle. The steerer tube on the replacement has a number stamped on it and the surface looks as if it has been sand blasted. 

Also, with regard to an earlier question. The old fork was not drilled for dynamo wiring and was drilled for fender mounts. The new fork is drilled for dynamo wiring and is also drilled for fender mounts.

I'm now curious as to whether Spec contracts many different fabricators or if they switched for the new model year. In any event I'm wondering if there would be any major difference in quality or craftsmanship between either model years or fabrication shops for the frame.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

That fork sounds like it was made by the same people that make Brodie's bikes. I test rode 3 different Brodies recently and everyone had a right side mid fork lug welded on crooked. So crooked that anyone could see it while standing over the bike.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Freightlinerbob said:


> That fork sounds like it was made by the same people that make Brodie's bikes. I test rode 3 different Brodies recently and everyone had a right side mid fork lug welded on crooked. So crooked that anyone could see it while standing over the bike.


Yup, I can't see straight half the time and I picked up on it at the bike shop. Even questioned it but they didn't seem to notice and I didn't feel like being an ingrate and push it.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I guess pictures may be in order...


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

CProffitt said:


> Hey everyone. I'm excited to see everyone's AWOL on here. Just wanted to share mine. -Chris


Chris,

What model is that kickstand? Pleischer? How difficult was putting on that kickstand? Are you afraid of it crushing the steel frame? Did you get any spacers etc? Thanks,
Chris


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

*Offset chainstay*

Hi 
I Have an Awol deluxe and there sem to be an offset in the chainstay. When Í mount my 29×2.0 fast track on the bike there is aprox. 1-2mm gap on the driven side and about 8mm on the other side. This doesn't lok normal to me but want to hear how it is on other bikes.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

gudbjornm said:


> Hi
> I Have an Awol deluxe and there sem to be an offset in the chainstay. When Í mount my 29×2.0 fast track on the bike there is aprox. 1-2mm gap on the driven side and about 8mm on the other side. This doesn't lok normal to me but want to hear how it is on other bikes.


Check the dropouts' alignment. One may need to be adjusted.


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

This is a awol deluxe with nonadjustable dropouts

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

gudbjornm said:


> This is a awol deluxe with nonadjustable dropouts
> 
> Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk












Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

gudbjornm said:


> Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


Starting with the easiest and most obvious, I'd make certain the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts. There could even be an object or misaligned derailleur hanger interfering with fully seating the wheel, so putting the wheel in without the QR can be an easy way to verify if the axle is dropping all the way into each dropout. You could even loosen the brake to make sure it doesn't interfere.

The wheel could also be dished off-center. Re-dishing a few mm to the non-drive side could solve the problem, even if the source is the frame rather than the wheel.


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

albeant said:


> Starting with the easiest and most obvious, I'd make certain the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts. There could even be an object or misaligned derailleur hanger interfering with fully seating the wheel, so putting the wheel in without the QR can be an easy way to verify if the axle is dropping all the way into each dropout. You could even loosen the brake to make sure it doesn't interfere.
> 
> The wheel could also be dished off-center. Re-dishing a few mm to the non-drive side could solve the problem, even if the source is the frame rather than the wheel.


The reason I ask you guys about this is that I took my bike to my specialized dealer and they tell me that this is normal on these bikes. I find this hard to believe but I don't know off any other awol around to see if it is the same. So if any of you guys have pictures of the chainstays on your bikes so I could see if they're correct or not would be awesome

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

Try flipping the wheel over, ie with the cassette on the left side - if the tyre is then away from the driveside chainstay, you need to have the wheel trued. If this doesn't make any difference, it's the dropouts. My AWOL wheels needed adjusting after a few rides as they loosened up, but I have the Comp version so can't comment on the frame alignment.


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## mosovich (Apr 19, 2004)

If it isn't seated properly, than that's BS.. Is the normal road tire that way as well?


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

mosovich said:


> If it isn't seated properly, than that's BS.. Is the normal road tire that way as well?


Yes it,s the same

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

gudbjornm said:


> This is a awol deluxe with nonadjustable dropouts
> 
> Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


Sorry, got the models mixed up.

Do you have another wheel that you can try?


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Sorry, got the models mixed up.
> 
> Do you have another wheel that you can try?


I don't have it at home but could probably have it from á friend of mine.

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Sorry, got the models mixed up.
> 
> Do you have another wheel that you can try?


I'm pretty sure it is not the wheel.tape because it is perfectly inline at the upper part









Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Maybe I'm wrong here, (I was), but isn't that a fairly normal offset, like that of the Surly Pugsly? It's offset away from the drive side (It's not). Take that with a grain of salt though, I might be really wide of the mark (I was).


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

PDKL45 said:


> Maybe I'm wrong here, as I don't own an AWOL (yet!), but isn't that a fairly normal offset, like that of the Surly Pugsly? It's offset away from the drive side, so I assume it's to allow for chain clearance with the fatter 29er, or chunky 700c tires that the AWOL is equipped with. Take that with a grain of salt though, I might be really wide of the mark.


It's actually towards the drive side so it make it harder to get the bigger tires to to fit

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

*AWOL Comp in the Australian bush.*




















I added a portland design works take out basket. Although not as light as a bar bag I have found it excellent for getting take out. And a six pack. Also, 2x2L milk fits perfectly. I recently added some a dynamo wheel. I have found the stock Specialized 700x42 wheel impossible to bead tubeless of WTBi23 rims so am still using tubes. Riding on outback fire trails I have walk up hills sometimes as the tyres have no grip. Thinking about WTB Nano 40C tyres instead but unsure about their use for my main activity commuting.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

gudbjornm said:


> It's actually towards the drive side so it make it harder to get the bigger tires to to fit
> 
> Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


So, if you take the wheel out and install it backwards, is it still offset to the same side?


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

albeant said:


> So, if you take the wheel out and install it backwards, is it still offset to the same side?


I haven't tried that yet but I contacted my lbs again and they want to have it in the Shop again and take a better look at it. Thanks all of you guys for your ideas to solve this problem. I will post it 7n here when I will get some answers

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## fordmike65 (Mar 20, 2013)

I love commuting on my AWOL comp so far, but am not too fond of the OE saddle. I'm thinking of picking up a Brooks since I hear good things & a buddy can hook me up with a considerable discount. I borrowed a lightly used B-17 of his & it feels pretty good...much better so far than the original. Now, would I benefit from a little spring action from a seat like the Flyer? Pretty much a B-17 with rear springs. I know the AWOL isn't an upright bike, but wondering if it's worth getting it instead of the solid tried & true B-17. Also debating if I should go with the Imperial of either model with the perineal cut-out. Looks like a good idea & even better looking that the conventional saddles, but I've heard of potential sagging. Thanks for any input. Mike


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

fordmike65 said:


> I love commuting on my AWOL comp so far, but am not too fond of the OE saddle. I'm thinking of picking up a Brooks since I hear good things & a buddy can hook me up with a considerable discount. I borrowed a lightly used B-17 of his & it feels pretty good...much better so far than the original. Now, would I benefit from a little spring action from a seat like the Flyer? Pretty much a B-17 with rear springs. I know the AWOL isn't an upright bike, but wondering if it's worth getting it instead of the solid tried & true B-17. Also debating if I should go with the Imperial of either model with the perineal cut-out. Looks like a good idea & even better looking that the conventional saddles, but I've heard of potential sagging. Thanks for any input. Mike


Hi I have riding Brooks for 25 plus year's love the Flyer over 10000 km's mountain biking and Cycling in Africa! have used a B17 for about 2000km's like the Flyer far better, But I have now switched to the new Brooks C17 saddle and it's the best saddle I have ever ride! Can now ride 120 plus km's offroad a day!  just love it.
Had it on my Awol this and ride over 500 km's most off road in 5 days my bum just loves the Cambium C17
Find a LBS that have test saddles or a saddle library and try before you buy.

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

gudbjornm said:


> Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


OK,here are images from my bike. I have custom-made wheels. Mine are offset a little the other way. The wheels seem perfectly straight and inline with each other however. The chain stay on the drive side seems slightly wider to account for the cassette I guess. Sorry its so dirty but I thought its an AWOL.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

I have the C17 with the cutout - 'carved' they call it - implying that it is personally fettled by bearded artisans rather than stamped out with a big machine. However, I like the saddle very much. Does not seem to sag or have too many problems. I also have an SMP dynamic which is a saddle I find comfy but YMMV. I am also considering a COBL-GBLR seat post for a little more comfort as I have a history of perineal nerve entrapment requiring surgery.


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## gudbjornm (May 29, 2012)

Ninox said:


> OK,here are images from my bike. I have custom-made wheels. Mine are offset a little the other way. The wheels seem perfectly straight and inline with each other however. The chain stay on the drive side seems slightly wider to account for the cassette I guess. Sorry its so dirty but I thought its an AWOL.
> View attachment 998489
> View attachment 998490
> View attachment 998491
> View attachment 998492


Thanks alot for these pictures. The bike is now at my lbs and they are contacting specialized as they believe that its a faulty frame.

Guðbjörn M

Sent from my SM-G870F using Tapatalk


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Hello there,

Just finished a 450 mile tour with the AWOL. Fully loaded panniers. Bike performed flawlessly until the end where I was starting to have some rear shifting issues. Stretched cable I guess. Adjusted and rode on. i also had to change seats half way through. My wife sent my old saddle to Hancock MD bike shop and picked up there and switched it out.

I rode from Lewes DE to Pittsburgh PA. I used the C&O canal trail and the GAP trail (335 miles off road). Very rainy, muddy, and exhausting but I made it. Pics to follow.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Can't wait to see the pictures! I'm hoping to do some rides like that after I move back to the east coast.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)




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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

How long did it take you?


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Tuesday:55 miles from Delaware
Wednesday: 42 miles to outside DC
Thursday: 27 miles Naval yard situation. Took train through DC and got on the trail at 1:00. Horsepen branch campsite.
Friday: 50 miles on trail. Killiansburg cave?
Saturday: 25 miles on trail. Williamsport Rain and soul sucking mud.
Sunday: 57 miles through Paw Paw tunnel.
Monday: Cumberland end of 185 C&O begin Gap. 30 miles. Mud, Mud, mud and rain.
Tuesday:33 miles up and over the Eastern Continental divide
Wednesday: 58 miles Meyersdale to Connellsville. 
Thursday: To west newton> POURING RAIN. 27 miles Got a bed and breakfast and dried out. My wife was driving from Jersey the next day so no reason to get there a day early 
Friday: 35 miles to Pitt.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Not bad!


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## Riccardo67 (Jul 18, 2015)

Fat guy on an AWOL, on a rainy day, on a sportive, on a high 







After doing 2000 miles in the 2 months I've had it, across all sorts of terrain, in very hot and very wet weather, I can honestly say, I LOVE MY AWOL


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## Riccardo67 (Jul 18, 2015)

With stock chainset - FSA Gossamer, 30-39-50







I've now got a more sensible Shimano Alivio 22-32-44


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Nice bunch of pictures.

I did my first touring trip this weekend I went in the Ardenne:





I'm thinking about changing the stock pedals by something like the Shimano PD-MX80 (I like to ride with my sandals on).


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## Aaron Kester (Jul 26, 2015)

Just picked up a used 2015 AWOL Comp yesterday and am looking to put it to good use. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for tires suited for a mix of slightly more on road use then the stock ones? I'll keep the 42mm trigger sports to swap for times when I will be more offroad, but my plan is to get tires to use it more for commuting, light weekend touring, and bike trails of mixed terrain but mostly road. I'm debating if I should go down to 35 or 38 mm or what tires in general would be good. Any recomendations would be appreciated. I'll mention I only weigh 140 lbs. 

Thanks


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I say ride them and see how you like them.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Aaron Kester said:


> Just picked up a used 2015 AWOL Comp yesterday and am looking to put it to good use. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for tires suited for a mix of slightly more on road use then the stock ones? I'll keep the 42mm trigger sports to swap for times when I will be more offroad, but my plan is to get tires to use it more for commuting, light weekend touring, and bike trails of mixed terrain but mostly road. I'm debating if I should go down to 35 or 38 mm or what tires in general would be good. Any recomendations would be appreciated. I'll mention I only weigh 140 lbs.
> 
> Thanks


I really like the 40mm Voyager Hypers on mine, they were relatively cheap to boot. I built my framre up so know nothing of the Trigger's. So below might be the wiser answer...


worrptangl said:


> I say ride them and see how you like them.


What ever happened to the pizza rack? I'm starting to wonder if the AWOL is already EOL.


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

2nd the Voyager Hypers - nice and wide but a lot lighter than other fat slicks.

Re the Pizza rack, at least 2 of the 2016 Awol models have it as standard so I don't think they're disappearing anytime soon. The guys in my local Spesh concept store said the rack should be released seperately sometime in the next few months. Fingers crossed!


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Rod Kimble said:


> 2nd the Voyager Hypers - nice and wide but a lot lighter than other fat slicks.
> 
> Re the Pizza rack, at least 2 of the 2016 Awol models have it as standard so I don't think they're disappearing anytime soon. The guys in my local Spesh concept store said the rack should be released seperately sometime in the next few months. Fingers crossed!
> 
> ...


It's nice to see they aren't going anywhere, mine has really grown on me. I thought the Vaya might have been better but now that I own both I know I like the AWOL better.


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## hefeweizan (Aug 24, 2011)

The Pizza Rack is available, got mine on order, $90


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

hefeweizan said:


> The Pizza Rack is available, got mine on order, $90


Where did you order it?


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## jaggittens (Oct 25, 2007)

Long shot...My local shop supposedly ordered me an XL comp months and months ago, or at least that is what I was told. They lied, which I found out about yesterday, after many times being reassured it was coming. I'm a month out from my 3 month tour without a bike and am desperately trying to find an AWOL in an XL...Canadian Spesh is sold out and I was told by the same bike shop that so is the US. Has anyone seen an XL in a shop (frame or complete comp bike) for sale?


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

jaggittens said:


> Long shot...My local shop supposedly ordered me an XL comp months and months ago, or at least that is what I was told. They lied, which I found out about yesterday, after many times being reassured it was coming. I'm a month out from my 3 month tour without a bike and am desperately trying to find an AWOL in an XL...Canadian Spesh is sold out and I was told by the same bike shop that so is the US. Has anyone seen an XL in a shop (frame or complete comp bike) for sale?


2015 Comp completes are only available in M and L at this time. There are a few XL Comp framesets showing as available in US.

Is there another Specialized dealer near you? Sounds like you need a new LBS.


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## jaggittens (Oct 25, 2007)

Thanks for the info BluesDawg. Looks like a trip to the US.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

jaggittens said:


> Long shot...My local shop supposedly ordered me an XL comp months and months ago, or at least that is what I was told. They lied, which I found out about yesterday, after many times being reassured it was coming. I'm a month out from my 3 month tour without a bike and am desperately trying to find an AWOL in an XL...Canadian Spesh is sold out and I was told by the same bike shop that so is the US. Has anyone seen an XL in a shop (frame or complete comp bike) for sale?


I had a similar problem when I bought mine (XL as well). I called many bike dealers in Belgium, they all told me that there were no Awol on that size anymore from Specialezed and I had to wait for the 2016 model (it was in may 2015...). I wanted the Elite model (the one with the rack and fenders) but none seems to have it, so I finally found the stock version in the UK (order it on the internet). It was the last one of their stock!

Good luck and hope you will find one who suits you.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

jaggittens said:


> Long shot...My local shop supposedly ordered me an XL comp months and months ago, or at least that is what I was told. They lied, which I found out about yesterday, after many times being reassured it was coming. I'm a month out from my 3 month tour without a bike and am desperately trying to find an AWOL in an XL...Canadian Spesh is sold out and I was told by the same bike shop that so is the US. Has anyone seen an XL in a shop (frame or complete comp bike) for sale?


Life Cycles in Abbotsford BC had an XL touring version (racks, fenders) a few weeks ago. $1799.00 CDN.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

Also, Revolution Cycles in Edmonton had a 2014 XL Comp, marked down about 25%, back in the spring.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

If I wanted to put narrow road tires on the bike what would be the limit. Can I go down to 23's?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

If you go down to 23's, you might want to be cautious of the rims with the higher pressure in the smaller tires. Some guy on another message board (reportedly) managed to taco a wheel by putting narrow tires with higher pressure in them on the stock rims, designed for wider tires run at lower pressures.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Ok. The one thing I need to change are the handlebars. Does anyone have 46 or 44mm bars in exchange for my 42 from a medium frame? For me they are way too narrow.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Just installed a Surly Nice (front) rack on the AWOL, and it's probably the best-fitting rack I've found.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

NZPeterG said:


> Kiwi Pete from the road


How does the xt rear derailleur work with the shifters?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi
It's 9 speed so works 100% rear.
Front derailleur no go! I used Barend shifter. 
😎



Kiwi Pete from the road


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## hillharman (Sep 8, 2011)

Anyone got the deets on the 2016 models? I've seen a few pictures, so there are at least new colors.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/adventure/awol


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## hillharman (Sep 8, 2011)

Their website went down for the update basically exactly when I asked this question. Looks like none of the complete bikes come with the swinging dropouts. That's a bummer.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Nice, the pizza rack is 90$, too bad that Spe is not selling the Awol fenders separately.

I'm still hesitating between the Tubus Tara or the pizza rack for my front pannier.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

PDKL45 said:


> If you go down to 23's, you might want to be cautious of the rims with the higher pressure in the smaller tires. Some guy on another message board (reportedly) managed to taco a wheel by putting narrow tires with higher pressure in them on the stock rims, designed for wider tires run at lower pressures.


How about a conti gatorskin 700x28?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Compass Stampede Pass Extralight 700x32 tires will be plush and plenty fast.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Well a 28 fit on the rim??? Or is it to big

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Yes a 28 mm tyre will fit great and Specialized said a 28mm to 2" tyres fit the Awol. 
So go find a 28mm tyre you like and fit them on.
Have fun riding


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Gracias senior

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Your welcome

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

NZPeterG said:


> Kiwi Pete from the road


I thought you sold the AWOL


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

I have Sold this Awol
But I get to work on them still all the time at work .


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

PDKL45 said:


> I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you need a compact road crankset, like a 50/34, to run full 29x2.1 tires, as the lower models with Sora have 700x42c tires, allowing for clearance with the triple chain ring.


Does anyone else have info on this? I was thinking of ordering a 2016 base model with the triple, but not really interested if I can't run 29er 2.1's without swapping it out. Maybe that's asking too much...


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

cackalacky said:


> Does anyone else have info on this? I was thinking of ordering a 2016 base model with the triple, but not really interested if I can't run 29er 2.1's without swapping it out. Maybe that's asking too much...


curious as well, just ordered a 2015 frameset, looking to get 1.9 ground controls for it. I run a 105 triple on current bike with 24t granny that I will be swapping over on awol.....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

cackalacky said:


> Does anyone else have info on this? I was thinking of ordering a 2016 base model with the triple, but not really interested if I can't run 29er 2.1's without swapping it out. Maybe that's asking too much...


Hi why have you not read the whole post about the Awol? 
To run a triple crankset like the Base Awol you can not fit a 2.1 x 29"er tyre 
Unless you fit a Mountain bike triple or 2x crank.
Just buy the next model up and all ok or with the base model adjust the front derailleur to only work the outer 2 chain rings and all ok with the 2.1.

Have fun 

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi why have you not read the whole post about the Awol?
> To run a triple crankset like the Base Awol you can not fit a 2.1 x 29"er tyre
> Unless you fit a Mountain bike triple or 2x crank.
> Just buy the next model up and all ok or with the base model adjust the front derailleur to only work the outer 2 chain rings and all ok with the 2.1.


Still working on that, but thanks for the info, makes sense. So these have road cranks, but 135mm hub spacing, correct?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Yes

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Excellent, thank you!


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Overhauled my AWOL Comp:


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

Does anybody know what is max rider height for an XL awol to be comfortable?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi do you have long legs for your height? or long back?
Go into your LBS and ask to be sized for it.



Kiwi Pete from the road


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi do you have long legs for your height? or long back?


Both 

I heard legs would be the problem as the reach is quite large.


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## iStone (Sep 25, 2013)




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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi a Awol XL will fit bigger than 6'6" 
I'm 1.72 metres tall and had a medium, watch as to long for me and I have short legs, long back.
I also ride a 54 Crux Cyclocross bike watch is a 100% the right size for me.
Have fun riding a Awol ☺
I'm waiting for the Awol 29+ 2017-18 year model 😈


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

I am 6'7" and I am afraid Awol wouldnt fit me, currently there is no bike to test anywhere near me. Are there other tall persons riding this and how do they find it?


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I just ordered a 2015 AWOL Comp frameset, size L. Looking forward to building it up, mostly with extra parts left over from changes I've made to other bikes. I'll just need a crankset, rear derailleur, chain, cassette and a few minor things for the initial build. 
Should be a fun build.

What I already have:
Force shift/brake levers
Rival FD
BB7 brakes
Stans Iron Cross wheels
Salsa Cowbell bars
Salsa Guide stem
Brooks B17 saddle
various tires


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

hillharman said:


> Their website went down for the update basically exactly when I asked this question. Looks like none of the complete bikes come with the swinging dropouts. That's a bummer.


I am not sure that it's so bad. The swinging dropouts require a bit of extra TLC. They can become misaligned say with heavy braking, as the disc can pull on one side- then the wheel spins like it is out of true. When you run big tyres - I have 2.2 then this causes the tire to scrape on the stays. Adjusting this in the bush is near impossible to me. I am not alone with this problem. I see the new AWOLs as improving the design. Strangely they are also cheaper in Australia than what I paid originally.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Ninox said:


> I am not sure that it's so bad. The swinging dropouts require a bit of extra TLC. They can become misaligned say with heavy braking, as the disc can pull on one side- then the wheel spins like it is out of true. When you run big tyres - I have 2.2 then this causes the tire to scrape on the stays. Adjusting this in the bush is near impossible to me. I am not alone with this problem. I see the new AWOLs as improving the design. Strangely they are also cheaper in Australia than what I paid originally.


Yes your right, only the Swinging dropouts on the 2016 frameset.
Maybe a few 2015 Awol bike's with it a some parts of the world if you're interested. 
The good thing about the 2016 frameset in its how design for anyone to run a Rohloff gear hub ?

Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

toni31 said:


> I am 6'7" and I am afraid Awol wouldnt fit me, currently there is no bike to test anywhere near me. Are there other tall persons riding this and how do they find it?


 I have an XL. I am 6'3" and its fine. It would work fine for your height as well I am sure. actually I love the XL is shamelessly a tall persons bike. My bike fitter thinks I could have gone either L or XL so I think you would be Ok.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Ninox said:


> I have an XL. I am 6'3" and its fine. It would work fine for your height as well I am sure. actually I love the XL is shamelessly a tall persons bike. My bike fitter thinks I could have gone either L or XL so I think you would be Ok.


I'm 6'4" tall and I'm happy that I choose the XL size too. It would definitely fit for tall people like us.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Ninox said:


> I am not sure that it's so bad. The swinging dropouts require a bit of extra TLC. They can become misaligned say with heavy braking, as the disc can pull on one side- then the wheel spins like it is out of true. When you run big tyres - I have 2.2 then this causes the tire to scrape on the stays. Adjusting this in the bush is near impossible to me. I am not alone with this problem. I see the new AWOLs as improving the design. Strangely they are also cheaper in Australia than what I paid originally.


Mine shifted once but I'm not sure what caused it to happen. And I found the swinger dropouts to be a total pain to adjust. The swingers have a scale on them but the chain stays have no reference mark on them, to make it worse the left and right chain stays are a little different from each other. Maybe my frame is a little wonky but when I center the tire between the chain stays it isn't quite centered between the seat stays and isn't centered between either when I try to match the number on the left and right swinger dropout scale. In the end I eyeballed it to the seat tube and try not to ponder it too much as it tracks okay.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

edthesped said:


> Mine shifted once but I'm not sure what caused it to happen. And I found the swinger dropouts to be a total pain to adjust. The swingers have a scale on them but the chain stays have no reference mark on them, to make it worse the left and right chain stays are a little different from each other. Maybe my frame is a little wonky but when I center the tire between the chain stays it isn't quite centered between the seat stays and isn't centered between either when I try to match the number on the left and right swinger dropout scale. In the end I eyeballed it to the seat tube and try not to ponder it too much as it tracks okay.


It's not just you. I gave up using the numbers as guides and just center the wheel relative to the seat tube and chainstays.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

are your swinger models with wonky offsets 2014 or 2015? curious if its an ongoing issue or a first run teething problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Mine's a 2014 (that also lacks a hole in the fork for mounting a light/fender).


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

My frame is also a 2014 but I have a 2015 fork as a result of a foreign object into my front wheel.


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

I've got a 2015 Comp - same deal with the dropouts. I think the markings are just for show, as there's no way to use them accurately. I just fix one side the length (short or long depending or tyre size) and move the other one until the wheel lines up with the seat tube, then tighten it. They need greasing as well or they'll start to creak. Unless you really want to be able to run singlespeed or hub gears, I wouldn't bother with the Comp model.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

rajcoont said:


> are your swinger models with wonky offsets 2014 or 2015? curious if its an ongoing issue or a first run teething problem
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine is a 2014. I find the offsets are not so much wonky (i.e. when correct they are fine) but that the swinger dropouts come out of alignment on long rides. I was wondering about changing from the BB7 to a hydraulic brake so that brake sticking (which I believe is the culprit) would be less of an issue. The swinger dropouts seem painful to adjust. I spent more that a reasonable amount of time on this on the weekend. Another option is getting a local frame builder to weld permanent decent dropouts. Or a frame...


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> It's not just you. I gave up using the numbers as guides and just center the wheel relative to the seat tube and chainstays.


Once the wheel is centered by whatever means, are you also experiencing the slipping in the dropouts that others are reporting? Or is the wheel staying where you put it?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

BluesDawg said:


> Once the wheel is centered by whatever means, are you also experiencing the slipping in the dropouts that others are reporting? Or is the wheel staying where you put it?


From what I've noticed, it stays put.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

Hmm... Interesting discussion about swinger dropouts. That was one of the main things that was drawing to the bike - to be able to use it as "bad" weather commuter with IGH. Is it a general consensus that swinger dropouts are not of a very good design? Things that people just mentioned are squeaks, coming out of alignment, hard to align to begin with, requirement of constant maintenance (and attention)? As to the using numbers as a guide - any chance to put a corresponding row of numbers on the frame, (pain, etch it somehow?) to make that thing more useful?


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

So glad I got the base frame. No problems

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

By the way, regarding sizing. I am 6'2" with 33.5-34 "pants" inseam, the chart suggests that I can go with both L and XL? Anyone with similar measurements can chime in on the choice of frame size?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

My dropouts shifted within a month of me putting the bike together, last Oct. but I haven't had an issue since. Maybe I forgot to torque a side or something. I probably have 3k mi on the bike since without issue. If I were to purchase another frame, which I very well may be doing for my daughter, I would want the swingers as I like the perceived flexibility.

My issue with the swingers is that they are a PITA to adjust, there just isn't a good reference point for the adjustments, i.e. it's all eyball. The scale on the swinger is worthless and they'd do well to just leave it off at least that way I wouldn't keep looking at it and wondering why I can't figure out how to adjust the dropouts using the scales. Having the adjustable dropouts at least gives you the ability to adjust the chainstay length or wheel alignment if you want to.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

Thank you, edthesped. Is there anyway to put some markings on the "other side"? At least once you aligned - realigning should be easier.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

ryoanji said:


> Hmm... Interesting discussion about swinger dropouts. That was one of the main things that was drawing to the bike - to be able to use it as "bad" weather commuter with IGH. Is it a general consensus that swinger dropouts are not of a very good design? Things that people just mentioned are squeaks, coming out of alignment, hard to align to begin with, requirement of constant maintenance (and attention)? As to the using numbers as a guide - any chance to put a corresponding row of numbers on the frame, (pain, etch it somehow?) to make that thing more useful?


I'm not seeing anything I'd call a consensus. I'm still looking forward to getting my 2015 Comp frameset soon and building it up. I'll take extra care in setting up the dropouts because of what I've read here, but I am not expecting big problems.

I found this link which some may find helpful.


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

I don't think the design is inherently bad, EBB and horizontal dropouts can present issues too. My dropouts haven't shifted during use and the more I times I change them (switching tyres fairly often) the less time it takes me. I just think if you're not realistically going to need the SS/hub gear capability, you wouldn't lose out by going for the fixed dropout design.

@ryoanji - I'm the same measurements as you, went for the large. The AWOL is designed around a long TT and short stem, so does feel a bit different to regular road bikes. If you can, get a test ride or at least sit on both sizes.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

ryoanji said:


> Thank you, edthesped. Is there anyway to put some markings on the "other side"? At least once you aligned - realigning should be easier.


I guess you could use a paint stick or something but I don't see the need, knock on wood mine is holding pretty solid and don't foresee having to make adjustments any time soon.


BluesDawg said:


> I'm not seeing anything I'd call a consensus. I'm still looking forward to getting my 2015 Comp frameset soon and building it up. I'll take extra care in setting up the dropouts because of what I've read here, but I am not expecting big problems.
> 
> I found this link which some may find helpful.


You'll love the AWOL its a great bike, my daughter all but stole mine and wants one of her own. As soon as I figure out whether she needs a medium or a small I'll build one up for her she's 5'-7 so falls in between both.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

If you apply some blue Loctite to the bolts and torque them properly, they stay put.

I have to wonder if swinger-style dropouts are easier/cheaper for manufacturers because alignment is less critical. Having IGH/SS-compatible dropouts looks good on a spec sheet, but how many AWOL owners will be rocking an IGH or SS?


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> but how many AWOL owners will be rocking an IGH or SS?


 me  Also, thanks GRAVELBIKE, BluesDawg and edthesped for reassurance. I will be on the look out for AWOL frameset. For some reason I really like 2016 Satin Olive color, I think it looks amazing with gumwalled tires and some antique brown brooks. Too bad that it is stock and isn't available with swingers. Frameset only comes just in black color, right?


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

ryoanji said:


> By the way, regarding sizing. I am 6'2" with 33.5-34 "pants" inseam, the chart suggests that I can go with both L and XL? Anyone with similar measurements can chime in on the choice of frame size?


Both are probably fine. With the L you might need the seatpost out a lot. Thomson make a 400 mm seatpost. The bike comes with a 350mm. The XL will be more relaxed, the L more lively. If you worry about knee/spindle alignment with bike fit, I find that I can't quite get my seat far enough forward with the XL due to the long top tube. But I like the way the bike rides.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

ryoanji said:


> Hmm... Interesting discussion about swinger dropouts. That was one of the main things that was drawing to the bike - to be able to use it as "bad" weather commuter with IGH. Is it a general consensus that swinger dropouts are not of a very good design? Things that people just mentioned are squeaks, coming out of alignment, hard to align to begin with, requirement of constant maintenance (and attention)? As to the using numbers as a guide - any chance to put a corresponding row of numbers on the frame, (pain, etch it somehow?) to make that thing more useful?


Personally I think they are not a good design and a PITA. Mine have slipped quite a few times. Anyway, it's back at the shop at the moment and we'll see how things go. I am glad that some people don't have as frustrating an issue.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

Ninox said:


> Both are probably fine. The XL will be more relaxed, the L more lively.


 That's good to know! There is one spec dealer a few blocks away from where I live. I will pay a visit, maybe they will have a bike in stock. By the way, which year is your AWOL? Also, I noticed that 2016 bikes have internal (light) cable routing. That was not available on earlier framesets?

EDIT: stopped by LBS, 2015 models are long long gone anywhere in my area and 2016 models still haven't came in. Awol is in high demand!


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## BleepBlp (Jun 13, 2008)

Ive been researching this frameset and have read the stem is shorter than a typical touring bike. What is the reason for this? 

I have a recently purchased used Indy Fab MTB (stunning bike for the right person) but I don't like the geometry. I prefer a more relaxed geometry for commuting and light touring, hence looking into the AWOL as the LBS has them for sale. 

Any idea how this AWOL Expert frame would compare to a Indy Fab MTB Steel Deluxe? Indy MTB is a 26" so I won't be able to pull over the wheels to the AWOL.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

BleepBlp said:


> Ive been researching this frameset and have read the stem is shorter than a typical touring bike. What is the reason for this?
> 
> I have a recently purchased used Indy Fab MTB (stunning bike for the right person) but I don't like the geometry. I prefer a more relaxed geometry for commuting and light touring, hence looking into the AWOL as the LBS has them for sale.
> 
> Any idea how this AWOL Expert frame would compare to a Indy Fab MTB Steel Deluxe? Indy MTB is a 26" so I won't be able to pull over the wheels to the AWOL.


Hi
Short stem?
Because unlike a road or Cyclocross bike there is no toe overlap. 
You have to ride it, it's one of the most fun bike's to ride.


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

BleepBlp said:


> Ive been researching this frameset and have read the stem is shorter than a typical touring bike. What is the reason for this?


The stem is shorter to compensate for the longer than typical top tube, which has been reported, as Kiwi Pete suggested, to be designed to prevent toe overlap.


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## BleepBlp (Jun 13, 2008)

Does anyone have suggestions on the best wheelset for a commuter/expedition touring build?


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

ryoanji said:


> That's good to know! There is one spec dealer a few blocks away from where I live. I will pay a visit, maybe they will have a bike in stock. By the way, which year is your AWOL? Also, I noticed that 2016 bikes have internal (light) cable routing. That was not available on earlier framesets?
> 
> EDIT: stopped by LBS, 2015 models are long long gone anywhere in my area and 2016 models still haven't came in. Awol is in high demand!


I have a 2014. Its very nice to ride. I notice on Strava for example I have done the same amount of time on this bike in 2015 as my road and MTB bikes combined and I bought it in April 2015. Its a highly addictive ride. I don't think I have internal light routing although I might. I run the light cable on the outside. There is internal tubing for the fork but I don't use it.


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## BleepBlp (Jun 13, 2008)

Had any of you considered the Surly LHT? If so, what made you decide on the AWOL? I am considering both.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

BleepBlp said:


> Had any of you considered the Surly LHT? If so, what made you decide on the AWOL? I am considering both.


Hi yes.
The Surly LHT is a full on touring bike. 
The Awol is is light weight adventure bike, not a fully loaded touring bike. 
It's far more fun to ride
Awol is a Adventure with Out limits


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

BleepBlp said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on the best wheelset for a commuter/expedition touring build?


Hi the standard wheelset in good. 
But if you would like better I build up a set off wheels for my Awol. 
DT swiss 350 hubs with DT db spoke and WTB 29"er rims.

Have fun out riding


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

As above, the stock wheels are good, but if you can afford it treat yourself to a dynamo hub and have the front one rebuilt around it (or build it yourself!). It'll mean you get reliable lighting and electric device charging if you want to do multi day trips.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

toni31 said:


> Does anybody know what is max rider height for an XL awol to be comfortable?


In a bit late for this but FWIW, I tried an XL. I'm 6'3" but have a 39" cycling inseam and 37" sleeves. Regular torso and long limbs. The AWOL's seat post wasn't long enough to actually see if the rest of the bike fit, but it felt like it might be a bit much in the reach and not tall enough in the stack. The XL Fargo's numbers indicate a taller stack and shorter reach.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

Just had a bit of time over the labor day weekend and engaged in a large and revealing reading exercise - 17 pages! 

Based on that I have a few questions that I hope somebody can help me to clarify:

1. Even in 2014 and 2015 model years, swinger dropouts were only on Comp model or on the framesets purchased separately, is that right?

2. In 2014 and 2015 model years, Reynolds 720/520 tubing was only on the Comp model, not on base model or Deluxe. I am a bit confused because, for instance, I checked bikepedia, whose info usually comes from manuf. websites and they mention "Reynolds" premium tubing for Deluxe model as well...

3. Someone noted that when forks started to come drilled for lights (not just the fender), the quality went down - finish, alignment, etc. 

4. The reason there is a road Shimano groupset (e.g. triples) on "off-road" touring bike, is that MTB cranks and derailleurs would not work with road shifters. But that is only true for 10 speed stuff right? For instance, 9 speed sora shifters st-3503 will have the same pull ratios for 9 speed MTB derailleurs, e.g. XT M772 rear mech, which will work with 9 speed MTB cranks, e.g. FC-M782. I believe the common wisdom is that if you stay with 9 speeds shimano road and MTB parts are interchangable as they have the same pull ratios. So, for instance with FC-M782 and other 9 speed mechs, it would be possible to run fattier tires, e.g. 1.9 or 2.0. Can somebody please correct me if I am wrong. 

Thanks a lot!


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

ryoanji said:


> Just had a bit of time over the labor day weekend and engaged in a large and revealing reading exercise - 17 pages!
> 
> Based on that I have a few questions that I hope somebody can help me to clarify:
> 
> ...


1. Yes, that is correct.
2. I think Specialized has us all confused about the tubing differences between the Comp frames and the standard frames. Best I can make out is that for 2014 and 2015, the standard frames use Reynolds 520 tubing (not completely sure of this) while the Comp frames use a mix of Reynolds 725 and 520. For 2016, the descriptions got even more vague. The Expert frameset now only mentions 725 tubing and the other models do not mention a specific tubing.
3. I believe the pre-drilled for lighting forks are new for 2016.
4. You are correct about rear derailleurs, but there is also a difference between the pull ratios on Shimano road vs. MTB front derailleurs.


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## bigolclyde (Aug 1, 2011)

Anyone know where I can find a 2015 AWOL Elite, most likely size L as I am 6'2", in Southern California? 
Called a fair amount of shops nearby but have not had any luck in locating. Tried Spec HQ and they said all of their 2015 is sold out and they can't access dealer inventory.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

BluesDawg said:


> 1. Yes, that is correct.
> 2. I think Specialized has us all confused about the tubing differences between the Comp frames and the standard frames. Best I can make out is that for 2014 and 2015, the standard frames use Reynolds 520 tubing (not completely sure of this) while the Comp frames use a mix of Reynolds 725 and 520. For 2016, the descriptions got even more vague. The Expert frameset now only mentions 725 tubing and the other models do not mention a specific tubing.
> 
> as far as i know, (and i have followed this bike far too closely since its debut) the comps are the only frames ever noted as reynolds. everything besides comp frames is generic cromo. think this year is the same. expert/comp is reynolds, everything else generic
> ...


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

rajcoont said:


> as far as i know, (and i have followed this bike far too closely since its debut) the comps are the only frames ever noted as reynolds. everything besides comp frames is generic cromo. think this year is the same. expert/comp is reynolds, everything else generic


I posted this earlier in the thread, but here's some info I copied from the 2015 AWOL page. It does seem pretty jumbled.

_AWOL X Poler
FRAME: Fully butted premium Cr-Mo, heat treated
FORK: Butted premium Cr-Mo, unicrown, heat treated

AWOL Comp
FRAME: Reynolds 725/520 premium Cr-Mo, fully butted, custom SWINGER dropouts...
FORK: Cr-Mo, unicrown, custom blade curve, w/ integrated cast dropouts

AWOL & AWOL Elite
FRAME: Reynolds premium Cr-Mo, fully butted
FORK: Cr-Mo, unicrown, custom blade curve, w/ integrated cast dropouts
_


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

rajcoont said:


> BluesDawg said:
> 
> 
> > 1. Yes, that is correct.
> ...


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

albeant said:


> The S950/S900 crankset is a good option, but it's not the only one. Just about any SRAM road crankset with a bolt-on spider should work. I think all the carbon models are compatible with the X0 spider, and the Rival with the X9 spider.
> 
> I mentioned above that I have the S950 "wide," which provides a 47.5mm chainline for 135mm spacing instead of the standard 44.5mm for 130mm spacing, but as long as you're ok with the chainline, the standard road crankset would provide the lowest Q-factor and ideal front-derailleur setup.


Am I reading this right that the Rival crankset can be fitted with the X9 120/80 spider which would allow for 42/28 chainrings and road FD compatibility?


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

BluesDawg said:


> Am I reading this right that the Rival crankset can be fitted with the X9 120/80 spider which would allow for 42/28 chainrings and road FD compatibility?


Yes, and then you get a double setup with gearing that's feasible on dirt. Black Mountain Cycles is building some of their monstercross bikes with this gearing using a White Industries crankset too:


__
https://flic.kr/p/14752301860


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

albeant said:


> Yes, and then you get a double setup with gearing that's feasible on dirt. Black Mountain Cycles is building some of their monstercross bikes with this gearing using a White Industries crankset too:
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/14752301860


Thanks. That is a useful option to have. SRAM should make it a standard offer. There are too few options for lower gearing with road doubles. I know about the Sugino OX601 and OX801 and the square taper White Industries VBC. In fact, I am running a VBC crank with 46/30 rings with a 11-28 cassette on my custom Zukas anyroad bike. I have a 105 triple crank on my Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross.

IMG_20150331_143034703 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

Downstream of Hungerford Lake dam by Benny Watson, on Flickr


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

BluesDawg said:


> Thanks. That is a useful option to have. SRAM should make it a standard offer. There are too few options for lower gearing with road doubles. I know about the Sugino OX601 and OX801 and the square taper White Industries VBC. In fact, I am running a VBC crank with 46/30 rings with a 11-28 cassette on my custom Zukas anyroad bike. I have a 105 triple crank on my Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross.
> 
> IMG_20150331_143034703 by Benny Watson, on Flickr
> 
> Downstream of Hungerford Lake dam by Benny Watson, on Flickr


Nice gravel stable!


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

albeant said:


> Nice gravel stable!


Thanks. The AWOL will likely replace the Black Mountain. It will be tough to see it go, but I have a friend who wants it and there is too much functional overlap to keep both. The Zukas is my dream bike and will be with me until I'm gone.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

BluesDawg said:


> You are absolutely correct as far as Specialized has published. (Actually, for 2016, only the Expert frameset mentions Reynolds). My suggestion that the other frames were 520 is based on what I remember from articles, reviews and posts from the early days of the AWOL. I have not found any documentation to support this belief, which is why I said I was not sure. I'll keep looking for where I got the idea that the others were 520. Pretty sure I didn't make it up.


 Thanks for responses! Actually, I did a little bit of the research as well. Not that I don't trust the opinion of respected forum members, but came across two interesting facts.

The first one, is that Specialized doesn't mention Raynolds tubing on Awol x Poler at all. Yet, it is hard to believe that is premium model was made out of lower quality tubing.

The second one, is that one of the forum members (can't find the original source, maybe it was one of the German mtb forums. actually, German mtb forums have a very lively discussion of awol and builds. apparently it is quite hot in German, maybe that explains all that tubus, ortlieb, supernova and Spec. collaboration in awol model? anyway, i digress) mentioned that he had different *frames* in his bikeshop and was able get a very close look and they appeared extremely similar. Moreover, when weighted, they pretty much have shown essentially the same weight for a given size. Anyway, just those two observations. Many manufacturers like to keep the parts inventory as simple as possible, yet to cater to different customer buying groups by a few changes.

Regarding to the change in fork quality, I was actually asking about the post of edthesped on p.13 (6/15). And I was wondering if someone else experienced that?


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

ryoanji said:


> The first one, is that Specialized doesn't mention Raynolds tubing on Awol x Poler at all. Yet, it is hard to believe that is premium model was made out of lower quality


saw on radavist that poler was not reynolds, they wanted to keep price point lower, so didnt get the comp frame

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

also, i read that tubing thickness remained same for regular/reynolds frames, and i believe the weight savings usually comes from being able to make tubing thinner with higher grade steel, so minimal weight savings would also make sense


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

rajcoont said:


> saw on radavist that poler was not reynolds, they wanted to keep price point lower, so didnt get the comp frame


 Hmm... I was following that on radavist as well and can't seem to find that discussion. Do you mind pointing to the source of it?

It might very well be that weight savings is neglibible on the grand scale of things of touring bicycle, then, again, it is essentially same frameset with same riding characteristics (save for "swinger" dropouts).


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

ryoanji said:


> Hmm... I was following that on radavist as well and can't seem to find that discussion. Do you mind pointing to the source of it?
> 
> It might very well be that weight savings is neglibible on the grand scale of things of touring bicycle, then, again, it is essentially same frameset with same riding characteristics (save for "swinger" dropouts).


Erik?s Awol x Poler Outback Tourer | The Radavist

don't know how to embed quotes but john watson says

John Watson Mod _ TaylorSizemore__• a year ago__If this bike were of higher grade steel, it would be way more expensive. Erik and Benji wanted to hit a lower pricepoint..._


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

rajcoont said:


> If this bike were of higher grade steel, it would be way more expensive. Erik and Benji wanted to hit a lower pricepoint...


 Thanks, missed that. Looking at the spec sheets, the only substantial difference that I can find between Poler and Comp is that Poler has better brakes, pizza rack and panniers included? Is that it?


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## Duhbear (Sep 26, 2015)

Hey guys,

I am seriously eyeing this bike for an upcoming tour, but I have a few questions. I'm 5'10.5", but mostly torso, so I was fitted for a medium at my local Specialized Concepts store. That sounds reasonable and I loved the way it felt. I was really hoping all the 2016 models would have the swinger dropouts, but that doesn't seem to be the case. So that brings me to one of my questions, which is what would be the advantage of getting a 2016 instead of the 2015 base model? The 2015s are going to be on sale soon ($200 off), so I'm thinking about going that way. Am I stupid for thinking about going with the 2015 instead of 2016? 

Second, I'm thinking of putting a smaller crank on it, and I saw some talk on here, but wasn't sure how feasible this is with the Sora components. Or if it's even necessary for the kind of riding I'll be doing. A low of 30x32 isn't a terrible, but I live in Florida so I'm not sure how it will transfer to hills. 

Third, I just wanted to say that I'm pumped to get an AWOL and fit it with racks, fenders, a Dynamo, and get it on the road. I'm planning a nice couple month tour around the U.S. and I am super excited.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Duhbear,

I'm the same height, and ride a medium.

The swinger dropouts really only matter if you plan on running a singlespeed or IGH drivetrain.


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## Duhbear (Sep 26, 2015)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> Duhbear,
> 
> I'm the same height, and ride a medium.
> 
> The swinger dropouts really only matter if you plan on running a singlespeed or IGH drivetrain.


That's reassuring on the size. And yeah, I figured. It was more a future hope than a current realism - a man can dream on a Rohloff. So I guess the 2015 is probably a good deal then?


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Unless there's some feature/component that you can't live w/o on the 2016, save some $$$ and get the 2015.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I picked up my Large 2015 AWOL Comp frameset today. I don't have all the parts for the build quite yet and it will be a couple of weeks before I'll have time to to get it all together and build it up, but I did a quick fit-up with wheels, stem and bars, post and saddle just to see how it looks and how it fits me. I had a spare pair of 29er wheels setup with 2.0" rear and 2.1" front MTB tires, so I threw them on to see how they fit and how they looked. Pretty bad-ass.:thumbsup: But I'll likely run narrower rubber usually and a different wheelset.
The 70mm stem I used put the bar reach just right and I can easily get the bar height up level with the saddle like I like it.

Now I just need a crankset, RD, cassette and a few other miscellaneous parts to finish it up and start hitting the gravel roads.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

So I just got an AWOL, the 2014 Deluxe (new-old stock, S. Korea). Does anyone know the details of the cassette? By that I mean, Specialized only listed the cassette as "Cassette: Shimano, 9-speed, 11-32" on their website.

Does anyone know the official Shimano part number or name of the cassettes used on the 2014 (Edit: AWOL and AWOL Deluxe) AWOLs?

I know it will be a while before I need to think about replacing the cassette, but it would be nice to know the exact name of that component, so I can look for them on the Internet etc during sales etc, so I have a replacement part ready to go in the future.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

PDKL45 said:


> So I just got an AWOL, the 2014 Deluxe (new-old stock, S. Korea). Does anyone know the details of the cassette? By that I mean, Specialized only listed the cassette as "Cassette: Shimano, 9-speed, 11-32" on their website.
> 
> Does anyone know the official Shimano part number or name of the cassettes used on the 2014 (Edit: AWOL and AWOL Deluxe) AWOLs?
> 
> I know it will be a while before I need to think about replacing the cassette, but it would be nice to know the exact name of that component, so I can look for them on the Internet etc during sales etc, so I have a replacement part ready to go in the future.


You just need a 9 speed 11-32 cassette, that's all. Take your pick, there will be different ones at different pricepoints, doesn't need to be exactly what you have now.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Hi all,

I just went from a Surly Ogre to a Kona Zone Two, realized my mistake (I need a versatile bike, not a flashy road bike!) and now am jumping back, this time to either a Diverge or AWOL, due to shop loyalty (have a sick price on a Salsa Vaya but I don't like the color and would rather stay with my LBS).

I think I'm leaning AWOL, I can always make it speedier but I can't make the Diverge fit fatter tires or more racks...

Quick question- on the Specialized U.S. website, all the AWOLS are listed as having the same frame:

"Heat treated custom-butted Premium Cr-Mo tubing, internal light cable routing-ready, Adventure Geometry, post disc mount, fender/rack mounts, kickstand plate"

Is that how it is? I thought below the Comp was a lesser quality frame. Or do all the U.S. bikes get the lesser quality (or the better?) tubing?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

XJaredX said:


> You just need a 9 speed 11-32 cassette, that's all. Take your pick, there will be different ones at different pricepoints, doesn't need to be exactly what you have now.


Okay, thanks for the info. I guess I will look into an SLX 11-32 or an XT. I thought I needed a road specific cassette, and 9-speed 11-32 versions don't seem to be easily available.

I asked the salesman at the store, but he did the Korean thing of telling me--insisting--that it was a road cassette because he probably didn't know and did not want to lose face.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

PDKL45 said:


> Okay, thanks for the info. I guess I will look into an SLX 11-32 or an XT. I thought I needed a road specific cassette, and 9-speed 11-32 versions don't seem to be easily available.
> 
> I asked the salesman at the store, but he did the Korean thing of telling me--insisting--that it was a road cassette because he probably didn't know and did not want to lose face.


To play it safe, it will say the model # on the lock ring of the cassette. You might have to take your wheel off to see it.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Does anyone know if the '16 AWOL Comp with the 1x11 has reasonable gearing for lightweight bike packing with decent elevation change? Like, I want to be able to make it up a sustained 13% grade without walking. I know that isn't super steep but I'm not super super fit. 

I'm just thinking that in the easiest gear, 38 x 42, that's not as low as what I run on my trail bikes, which is 30 x 42, so I'm having a hard time imagining what that would feel like. 

I *could* get an EVO but I really dislike the fire engine red, I'd have to repaint it. Plus I want to go a slightly different direction with racks, and I want to eventually get a SON hub for the higher efficiency. Plus if the gearing works, I'd really rather be 1x.


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## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

For the type of riding you're describing I'd recommend a mtb-style double in something like a 28/42 config. I run 1x11 on my Vaya, and no way could I do a sustained 13% grade with the bike's current gearing.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

GRAVELBIKE said:


> For the type of riding you're describing I'd recommend a mtb-style double in something like a 28/42 config. I run 1x11 on my Vaya, and no way could I do a sustained 13% grade with the bike's current gearing.


Thanks, much appreciated. I think what I might do is get the Comp and then switch out the crank for a double and add a front mech. Too many things I'd do differently on the EVO. Even though I basically want all the stuff the EVO has. Just... different parts.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

XJaredX said:


> Thanks, much appreciated. I think what I might do is get the Comp and then switch out the crank for a double and add a front mech. Too many things I'd do differently on the EVO. Even though I basically want all the stuff the EVO has. Just... different parts.


You'll also need a left shift/brake lever to shift the double crank. The Force 1 doesn't have a shifter in the front brake lever.

I'm building my '15 Comp frameset up with 10 speed Force levers, a Sugino OX601 crank with 46/30 chainrings and a SRAM GX rear derailleur with a 12-36 cassette. I'll need those low gears for North Georgia mountain Forest Service Roads.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Yeah that's something I learned... I kinda think them going 1x11 was a dumb move for the Comp.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Got it built up today. Only rode it enough to set in the brakes. Felt good, but not a real test. I'll take it out for a gravel ride Sunday and see how it goes. I like the way it looks, feels and fits. Can't wait to find out more.

just built by Benny Watson, on Flickr


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

First ride on gravel today. The bike was impressive. Love the way it rolls over the ruts and rocks, even with the "skinny" 40mm tires. Planning to put something closer to 2" on it soon as this bike is intended for the rougher side of the gravel spectrum. Great fit. Very nice feel when standing and climbing. Good, wide range of gearing from the 46/30 front, 12-36 rear. I'll got to try it on some thicker gravel, steeper hills and a few creek crossings next Sunday at the Fried Green 50 in Piedmont Wildlife Refuge out of Juliette, GA.

P1000351 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

P1000360 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

P1000364 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

P1000375 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

P1000376 by Benny Watson, on Flickr


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

lots of comp builds in this topic already but just finished mine up and wanted to show it off...quick ride round the block and already love the comfy geo and steel feel of this xl beaut










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## Dysun (Mar 17, 2012)

I purchased an AWOL comp a few months ago, and I'm changing a few things up on it. I was just wondering if anyone has tried the Salsa Cowchipper bars yet?


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Dysun said:


> I purchased an AWOL comp a few months ago, and I'm changing a few things up on it. I was just wondering if anyone has tried the Salsa Cowchipper bars yet?


Just got a pair yesterday


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Dysun (Mar 17, 2012)

Cool, let us know how they work for you.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I rode the AWOL last weekend on a couple of gravel rides, the Sac O Suds and the Fried Green Fifty, both out of Juliette, GA.. The first a 44 mile ride on mostly hard packed red clay roads scattered lightly with gravel with rolling hills on a cool and overcast day. The second the next day, a 28 mile ride (short version) in the rain on well drained crush and run gravel covered roads with several punchy climbs and a few creek crossings. The bike performed great on both rides. Stable and comfortable in the rough parts and fast and smooth on the hard pack.

I had changed the wheels to Specialized Control Carbon 29 with 1.95 Renegade Control tires mounted tubeless with Stan's sealant. Probably overkill for these rides, but it sure looks badass and it gave me lots of confidence on the fast descents and muddy curves.

SOS by Benny Watson, on Flickr

SOS by Benny Watson, on Flickr

FG by Benny Watson, on Flickr

FG by Benny Watson, on Flickr

FG by Benny Watson, on Flickr


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

BluesDawg said:


> I rode the AWOL last weekend on a couple of gravel rides, the Sac O Suds and the Fried Green Fifty, both out of Juliette, GA.. The first a 44 mile ride on mostly hard packed red clay roads scattered lightly with gravel with rolling hills on a cool and overcast day. The second the next day, a 28 mile ride (short version) in the rain on well drained crush and run gravel covered roads with several punchy climbs and a few creek crossings. The bike performed great on both rides. Stable and comfortable in the rough parts and fast and smooth on the hard pack.
> 
> I had changed the wheels to Specialized Control Carbon 29 with 1.95 Renegade Control tires mounted tubeless with Stan's sealant. Probably overkill for these rides, but it sure looks badass and it gave me lots of confidence on the fast descents and muddy curves.
> 
> ...


Beautiful country down there. Next time I go to Scherer I might have to bring the bike along...


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I drive right by plant Scherer on the way there and on the way home. Not far at all from the start point. We've been discussing planning a 100 or even 200 mile gravel route including these areas and just to the East where my club hosts the Red Clay Ramble and NorthEast from there into Oconee National Forest. Central Georgia is blessed with lots of great dirt/gravel roads.


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## gladou (Nov 6, 2015)

I have a Awol 2014 (the really basic one). I use it as my touring bike so not much gravel. I find that the lowest ratio is still too strong to climb up hills while fully loaded.
I'm looking to upgrade the bike by replacing the levers with ultegra 3x10 paired to an "old" shimano XT 9 speeds derailleur (as shimano changed the pulling ratio afterward) a 10 speed shimano XT cassette (11-36) and chain. I would like to change the crankset or at least the chainrings to get a small 26 chainring but don't really know what to buy.

Few question:
Will the 10 speed cassette fit on the cog (I think it should).
What chainring or crankset could I buy to replace the one I have (FSA Omega crankset)?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Hi. I have just bought a 2014 AWOL Deluxe (new old stock; not second hand) and I have been thinking about the lowest gear as well. I am really enjoying the road drivetrain on pavement after mainly riding my old MTB with slicks on pavement, but I know exactly what you mean about the lowest ratio.

I am thinking that I will ride the current components out, until they need a change, but at that stage I will probably keep the STI Shifters and go with a 9 speed XT rear derailleur and 11-34 cassette.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

The easiest thing to do would be to simply change the 30T chainring for a 26T. The BCD is 74mm.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

That is a really good idea and it's only a 13 tooth step up (26 - 39 teeth), so the derailleur should handle it without any problems at all. 

Any recommendations of suitable chainrings? I am at work, so can't go too far down a Google rabbit hole and am only seeing results for Ultegra and 105 30 and 39 tooth chainrings in 74mm BCD.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Sugino and Dimension rings are available through QBP at most bike shops.


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## Rock Surf (Aug 28, 2010)

Well I was really leaning toward a GT Grade X, or a Diverge. This thing looks pretty sick though, especially the 2016 comp. I like the fact that its steel. Saw the diverge yesterday and its awesome. The 2016 GT Grade X is a great looking bike with a lot of bang for the buck, and now I see the Awol comp, also a 1x11 with rival. Hmm what to do.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Has anyone installed a second rack on the front of an AWOL Deluxe or Elite (in addition to the stock Tubus Tara) to hold a rando-style bag? If so, what is the rack, and which attachment points did you use?


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I took the AWOL out for a long solo mostly dirt and gravel road ride Sunday. It was a beautiful day and I got to get a good feel for how the bike works for me. This bike is turning out to be a great solution to my search for a comfortable and capable bike for long rides on a wide range of surfaces.

n06 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

Big rubber. Specialized Renegade Control 1.95 set up tubeless
n04 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

n09 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

n10 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

Trail Magic
n01 by Benny Watson, on Flickr

n02 by Benny Watson, on Flickr


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

yeah, the more i ride it the more i like it, running 2" rubber on drops is fantastic and im shocked it hasnt caught on...roadie tires look goofy to me now, even my commuter hybrid on 32's feels far too skinny


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Just mounted some cheap Vee Rubber 10 2.1 knobs on the AWOL..... Fit great. Used the original tubes.... I hope they last. I am sure they are stretched quite a bit. Gonna try and do a gravel ride tomorrow. I will report back.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Happy Thanksgiving. The VEE Rubber tires are sweet. I rode only 6 miles on them but they are cool


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## MrMcFeely (Apr 29, 2013)

Anyone else notice the 2016 expert frame set has grommets near the bb and headtube on the downtube? Is it for di2 compatibility? Also the chain stay cable traps seem like they might remove and provide di2 access. If so I am extremely interested.


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## MrMcFeely (Apr 29, 2013)

MrMcFeely said:


> Anyone else notice the 2016 expert frame set has grommets near the bb and headtube on the downtube? Is it for di2 compatibility? Also the chain stay cable traps seem like they might remove and provide di2 access. If so I am extremely interested.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I had posted some stuff here about fender rub, but I got that worked out. My AWOL Deluxe has had a tune up after a few months of being ridden and I have it dialed in at last, with newly trued wheels and disc rotors clearing up any problems of rubbing.

Anyway, I thought I would try to pull together some thoughts on gearing, having been slightly obsessed with it lately (after tackling a few steep climbs around Uijeongbu and Northern Gyeonggido here in Korea) and having read through the entire thread again, with the experience of actually owning and riding an AWOL on a daily basis.

The gearing is high for a touring bike on the 2014 and 2015 base models, with 3x9 Shimano Sora STI shifting, and in some respects, the 2016 models are worse, in terms of broadness of gear range. Many owners seem to be looking for solutions, trying to get some lower gears for steep climbs with loaded bikes and for rougher offroad terrain.

So what to do? 

1. You can use SRAM MTB and road components. SRAM Road and MTB components can play well together, allowing you to use STI-type shifting (SRAM double tap) with MTB drivetrain components. SRAM do not have a triple shifter, though, as far as I know. I have no experience with SRAM and no access to parts, so I can't really comment, but it is an option to consider.

2. You can mix Shimano road and MTB components. This can work, but there are problems with STI. A 9 speed MTB rear derailleur will work with STI. The front triple derailleur is a different matter, however, as road front derailleurs have a different chainline to MTB components and road triple shifters have a different pull ratio to MTB triple shifters. People have kludged road triple front derailleurs to work with MTB triple cranksets, but it sounds like shifting would never be great. Thus, with 9 speed triple STI, you can use a long-cage MTB rear derailleur and an 11-34 or 12-36 cassette. I may go down this road in the future, when my drivetrain needs replacing. 

You can also install an aftermarket 24 or 26 tooth ring for the granny gear on the a 50-39-30 road triple crankset. Here, the Specialities TA Zelito chainring is compatible with Shimano and Campagnolo cranksets and comes in 24T and 26T sizes with a 74mm BCD, (almost) perfect for the stock FSA Triple cranksets on AWOLs. The Sora front derailleur can only handle a 20 tooth jump (30-50 teeth rings), though, and the TA Zelito cog would take you outside of this range. More research is required.

For 2016 Elite owners, the Wolftooth Roadlink would be worth looking at.

3. You can use MTB components with bar end shifters (9 or 10 speed indexed in the rear and friction in the front for both double and triple cranksets). You could also combine rear 9 speed STI shifting with front bar end shifting or you could use a combination of a Gevenalle Shifter with an STI shifter (or two Gevenalle shifters as they are sold in pairs).

As a side note related to MTB component drop bar shifting, there is a cool thread on MTBR, where a guy reamed out two 31.8mm seat clamps (there's a ridge on the inside that sits on top of the seat tube) with a dremel tool, filed a square slot into them and used the ridgeless filed clamps to hold SRAM MTB trigger shifters to drop bars, up beside the stem. You could also do something similar with accessory/light mount bars.

Soma Gator bars could also be considered (in a mad scientist way), with those long ends loaded down with trigger shifters and MTB brake levers, or I-Spec a/b/II integrated MTB shifter/brake levers (please post pics if you ever gator up your own bike, as the idea is a personal brainworm and I would love to see it).

Note that the use of an entirely MTB triple drivetrain moves the chainline out and allows you to run 29x2.1 tires on AWOL frames with fixed dropouts (all models except for the comp and the comp frameset). On stock models without fenders you may be limited to 29x1.8 tires (around 700x47C) due to the position of the front Sora derailleur.

4. You can use other road components. I think (please take this with a grain of salt, I am not 100%) you could switch to a square taper bottom bracket and use a Sugino (or some other) triple crankset with a road chainline. The stock Surly LHT complete uses a system like this (square taper bottom bracket with a Taiwanese OEM 48-36-26 road-type crankset), but I don't know how STI indexed shifting would work with that set up, as the stock Surly bike has a Sora triple front derailleur like the AWOL, but it's shifted with a friction bar end shifter.

The IRD Alpina-D front derailleur is often touted as a solution as a derailleur with a 45mm chainline optimized for smaller (48t/46t-26t/24t) road triple cranksets. In this regard I do not know the correct type of square taper bottom bracket you need for an AWOL (68mm English thread, but there are a lot of different spindle lengths in square taper bottom brackets) or whether it would work with a 48-36-26 road crankset and STI levers, but it is an interesting possibility.

Note that bar end shifting and square taper bottom brackets are quite popular for touring bikes as they are simple, easy to fix and commonly available off the beaten path.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)




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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> and road triple shifters have a different pull ratio to MTB triple shifters.
> 
> Note that the use of an entirely MTB triple drivetrain moves the chainline out and allows you to run 29x2.1 tires on AWOL frames with fixed dropouts (all models except for the comp and the comp frameset). I think on stock models without fenders you are limited to 29x1.8 tires (around 700x47C).


 Thanks for the summary. It appears you have done a very extensive research. I wonder if you could clarify a few things that I have been asking here and on various forums. My understanding was for Shimano 9-speeds, road and mtb shifters have the same pull ratio. (For instance, on my commuter I am running SL-R660 flat bar shifters with road drivetrain.)

Second, would running smaller wheelset, say 650B, still allow for fatter tires (2.0+) with road drivetrain, say on Sora 9-speed AWOL? I am quite sure none have tried that, but as a possibility? Thanks!


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

ryoanji said:


> Thanks for the summary. It appears you have done a very extensive research. I wonder if you could clarify a few things that I have been asking here and on various forums. My understanding was for Shimano 9-speeds, road and mtb shifters have the same pull ratio. (For instance, on my commuter I am running SL-R660 flat bar shifters with road drivetrain.)
> 
> Second, would running smaller wheelset, say 650B, still allow for fatter tires (2.0+) with road drivetrain, say on Sora 9-speed AWOL? I am quite sure none have tried that, but as a possibility? Thanks!


Hi yes road rear shifter/derailleur 9 speed and mtb rear shifter/derailleur 9 speed work great 98% the same pull.
Smaller wheels 650b in an Awol? 
Sorry the pedals will be too low!
It's not going to work. 
How to ride an Awol with larger tyres?

1# change to a 2x crankset and road derailleur plus road shifter.

2# change to a mountain bike 3x crankset, a mountain bike 3x derailleur and a road barend shifter
(I did this on my Awol and it worked great)

3# just stay all stock and have fun riding your Awol with stock tyres etc.



Kiwi Pete from the road


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

NZPeterG said:


> Smaller wheels 650b in an Awol?
> Sorry the pedals will be too low!
> It's not going to work.
> 
> ...


 Thanks, Kiwi Pete. Please correct me if I am wrong. Switching from 29er to 650B wheelset will lower BB by 3/4 inch. True, but it would be compensated to a large extend by running fatter tires, say 2.2-2.3 (maybe even bigger). So, overall BB will be lower by just 1/3-1/4 inch. Do you still think this will not work?



NZPeterG said:


> 2# change to a mountain bike 3x crankset, a mountain bike 3x derailleur and a road barend shifter (I did this on my Awol and it worked great).


Yes, I would like to stick to triples. Do you think I should be able to run, same configuration but Shimano 9 speed mountain drivetrain and road / flatbar shifters? You just told me it is the same pull ratio. Thanks a lot!


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

ryoanji said:


> Thanks, Kiwi Pete.
> 
> Yes, I would like to stick to triples. Do you think I should be able to run, same configuration but Shimano 9 speed mountain drivetrain and road / flatbar shifters? You just told me it is the same pull ratio. Thanks a lot!


Hi why use road flat bar shifters? 
Mountain Bike shifters are designed for flat bars and have 100% the right pull.

Just use all Mountain Bike because it just works

Happy Cycling
Xmas is the best time to go for a ride as its warm


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

NZPeterG said:


> 3# just stay all stock and have fun riding your Awol with stock tyres etc.


I am going to rock the stock set up until my drivetrain needs a replacement, but have been thinking about it recently, due to the need to have a direction to go in for buying parts in advance to save a little money (up to 50% with judicious Internet shopping).

I want to play around with a few configurations, too, like removing the stock deluxe fenders/mud guards and Tubus racks in favor of a different front rack, maybe a Surly or a Blackburn. With the fenders removed for the warmer weather, I should be able to run a Big Apple 29x2.0 up front and a Schwalbe 700x47C out back.

Also, ryoanji: Running 650B wheels with fatter rubber with a road triple might be difficult. The problem (aside from the drop un BB height) remains the location of the road front derailleur when the chain's on the granny ring. 27.5 x 2.1 and up will still have a fairly large outer diameter and I don't know if the tire would be moved rearward far enough to clear the front derailleur. Have you looked at the Trek 920 and the Salsa Fargo?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

MrMcFeely said:


> View attachment 1031641
> View attachment 1031642
> View attachment 1031643


I was looking around for information on the new Comp/expert frameset and see that S added a kickstand plate with the drilling being for internal light cables... Cyclingabout also claims they modified the fork trail as well, does anyone have any info on that? I had a built up comp that my daughter claimed and want to build a new one up. I'm quite happy with the way the AWOL handles and am wondering how much the handling has changed, hopefully it isn't too much like a touring bike now...

The New 2016 Specialized AWOL Touring Bikes | CyclingAbout


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## jenks (Oct 10, 2006)

The answer to those grommets and Di2 is "no" but also "yes." The etube wires don't quite fit, but by taking out a very small amount of material you can get them in. 

I just built up an AWOL with Alfine Di2 and had to drill those grommets but only a touch. routing the wires was actually pretty easy once I got them in. 

My bike is pretty unique with the alfine Di2, XTR Di2 shifters/junction box display and a gates belt drive. I've only had it built for about a week but I'm loving it so far. I will take pictures and post them tomorrow.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

jenks said:


> My bike is pretty unique with the alfine Di2, XTR Di2 shifters/junction box display and a gates belt drive. I've only had it built for about a week but I'm loving it so far. I will take pictures and post them tomorrow.


 I have read that with Di2 and gates belt drive you can only use one special cog at the back and special cranks (as you need to move chainline out a bit). Didn't that give you quite high gearing? Thanks!


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> Also, ryoanji: Running 650B wheels with fatter rubber with a road triple might be difficult. The problem (aside from the drop un BB height) remains the location of the road front derailleur when the chain's on the granny ring. 27.5 x 2.1 and up will still have a fairly large outer diameter and I don't know if the tire would be moved rearward far enough to clear the front derailleur. Have you looked at the Trek 920 and the Salsa Fargo?


 Thank you, yes I was aware of such possibility. But I hoped that 650b with say 2.1 will give just enough clearance upfront and lift BB sufficiently high (that is where swinger dropouts might be helpful to push the wheel back a bit). Again, those are just speculations, and one needs to try that.

Also, I have just came across the post (buried down the middle  that shows that mbt drivetrain *can be* married to road shifters / front derailleurs, as I suspected ... and kept asking  A Closer Look: 2008 Lemond Poprad Cyclocross Bike | One woman. Many bicycles.

As to Fargo, it is a bit different "creature". It is mtb with drop bars designed primarily for bikepacking. Whereas I see AWOL as road touring bike rigged to "stand" on fattier rubber. Trek 920 is too rare of a bird at the moment.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I think it's gong to depend on circumstances and particular tires, so take anything I say with a grain of salt. This guy seems to have fitted 29x2.1 tires to a stock AWOL:

2014 awol - Page 2

I will probably experiment in the future, but for now the fenders are staying on my bike. I agree with you about the Fargo, and I bought my AWOL because of that.

If you try the Tiagra solution, please post here, I am honestly interested in bike work-arounds and solutions and I would love to know how effective it is.


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## jenks (Oct 10, 2006)

Using the belt drive is somewhat limiting, the only Di2 cog they make is a 28t so you are stuck with that. 

The chainring (beltring? That sounds dumb, I'm sticking with chain) was a pain. I first got the 60t Di2 ring, the guys at gates said it would fit. It hit the chainstay. So I ended up with a non Di2 54t. 

The Gates website makes you believe that the beltline has to be PERFECT the guys at Gates are more realistic and said it has to be close. I got close.

You don't need to use their crank. You just need something with a 130 bcd. I used their crank because it matched what I was going for. The Di2 specific ring and cog move the beltline in board to make room for the Di2 motor.

The gearing is a bit high, my bike is a commuter for Chicago so I really wish I could have gotten that 60t ring on there. If you are loading the bike up and using it where there are elevation changes, I think the gearing will be fine.

Sorry about not getting pictures up, my computer is struggling right now. I'll keep trying.


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

*18 month report*

I've had my AWOL (AWOL Elite, 3x9, came with fenders and Tubus racks) for just about 18 months. I would say I'm very pleased with it. Riding conditions are rural and suburban paved and gravel, some urban curb hopping, some light trail riding, but walking over really rough stuff. I was looking for a bike a bit more roady than the Fargo, a bit more traily that the Disc LHT. AWOL fit the bill and came in lower in price. The ride is definitely more stable/tourer than other bikes I've had, but I'm a big guy with a less than delicate riding form and tend to break less stout frames. The front can feel a bit floppy, but no more so than other bikes I've ridden with a front load.

Usual load is Arkel Large Bar Bag on front, Carradice Nelson LF on saddle, both with light loads.








__
https://flic.kr/p/CLBdrY

Over nighters add a couple of Ortlieb front rollers.








__
https://flic.kr/p/ssJ8ft

I also completed the GAP/C&O in September and used two rear panniers as well (too much stuff at that point).








__
https://flic.kr/p/yWD1Du

The changes I've made from stock are:
- Replace saddle with B17, stock was the worst ass hatchet I've ever encountered.
- Replace pedals (seized after first rainy ride) with Deity Compound pedals - Warranty covered some of cost.
- Replace rear derailleur and cassette (30t large cog) with long cage derailleur and 11-36 cassette. 30x30 was not low enough for me to get up our Maryland mountains. 30x36 helps me do much better. I may go larger than that, if playing with a setup like this works. 
- Replace front wheel with shimano generator/hub velocity rim.
- Cracked rear rim at several eyelets. Replaced/upgraded to velocity rim under warranty.
- Had brake issue (TRP dual pivot mechanical) with front brake. Somehow, possibly due to pad wear allowing a larger gap between bearings and pad, it appears a bearing popped out of the track/race, leaving zero braking force (a *very* exciting moment). The explanation I'm giving may be incorrect, but that is the best the LBS and I could figure. Both calipers replaced by manufacturer, no issues since, but I'm keeping a VERY close watch on it and carrying spare pads in my tool kit now.

Changes I am still considering are hydraulic discs (which would mean fiddling with levers and shifters), possibly a taller stem to bring the bars up a bit, and lower gearing. Regardless, I am looking forward to many more years riding it.

JohnG
Union Bridge, MD


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

For those of you whom have ridden the AWOL and Fargo as drop bar, XC MTB from mild single track ,dual track to Fire Roads how does the AWOL compare> similar tires > more flared drops similar to Fargo on AWOL

I have ridden both but unfortunately not in the dirt.

Thanks


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Going AWOL in Seoul.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

Somebody is selling "like new" AWOL comp size (L) with rack and "bags" (?) on SF Bay Area local craigslist at $900. I am not the seller and haven't contacted him or her, but it seems to be a good deal so I am just passing along this info.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Hjalti said:


> I've had my AWOL (AWOL Elite, 3x9, came with fenders and Tubus racks) for just about 18 months. I would say I'm very pleased with it. Riding conditions are rural and suburban paved and gravel, some urban curb hopping, some light trail riding, but walking over really rough stuff. I was looking for a bike a bit more roady than the Fargo, a bit more traily that the Disc LHT. AWOL fit the bill and came in lower in price. The ride is definitely more stable/tourer than other bikes I've had, but I'm a big guy with a less than delicate riding form and tend to break less stout frames. The front can feel a bit floppy, but no more so than other bikes I've ridden with a front load.
> 
> Usual load is Arkel Large Bar Bag on front, Carradice Nelson LF on saddle, both with light loads.
> View attachment 1040124
> ...


How many days did you take to do the c&o/ GAP trail. I did it last June/july in ten days, including riding from the east coast of Delaware...Lots of rain and mud... How you had a better time than me

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

*Mississippi River Trail and other Adventures on my AWOL*

After much contemplation between models, I bought the 2016 base AWOL model in October 2015. I was going to buy the frameset and build it up, but I ended up buying a Soma Wolverine frame to use for Dairy Roubaix, Almanzo, other gravel races, and also some off road bike-packing trips. With the Woverine, I didn't want to spend the money on two builds at the same time.

So far I'm loving the AWOL. I've used it for some commuting and one 90-mile ride on the day before Thanksgiving from Madison, WI to the Fox Cities. I have some time off from work this summer and I'm planning a tour along the Mississippi River Trail. Most likely I'll start in Bemidji. That should be a fun trip.

Like most, I've swapped out that ridiculously uncomfortable stock saddle for a Brooks B17. I've added an Ibera rear rack that I believe will work just as well as similar more expensive racks. I'm awaiting delivery of a SP PD-8 Dynamo hub and I'll build it on the current stock rim. I've also swapped the Fatboy tires for a pair of Schwalbe Marathons. The stock "test-ride" pedals had to go so I bought a pair of Shimano M530s. Not as cool looking as Crank Brothers or other pedals, but they will last the lifetime of the bike.

I'm about 5' 9.5"- 5' 10" and after looking at the stack and reach (much more valuable tool to determine size than TT length and SO height) and test riding the small and medium frames, I went with the small, but I'm pretty sure the medium would fit me just as well because I'm right in the middle of the two. I'm confident the small will work. I'm a winter commuter and I haven't had much of an opportunity to ride without bulky winter clothing, so I haven't been able to dial in the fit to the precision that I want yet. I've swapped out a few stems and once the weather warms up and my bulky gloves come off I can get that set up a little better for longer rides.

I'm really looking forward to some adventures on this bike.


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## tankhead10 (Dec 6, 2014)

Congrats. I've not ridden my awol in a while since I bought my fat bike but am looking forward to a spring and summer tour this year and if course training rides. Good luck. Enjoy.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk


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## raelta (Feb 14, 2016)

jenks said:


> Sorry about not getting pictures up, my computer is struggling right now. I'll keep trying.


I hope you got your computer issues sorted out as I'm really curious about the drilling you did to fit the di2 internals.


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## jonbek (Nov 28, 2012)

Hi are the rims on the standard 2016 AWOL Comp tubeless ready or no?


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

jonbek said:


> Hi are the rims on the standard 2016 AWOL Comp tubeless ready or no?


They are not, but Stan's Notubes has a conversion kit that might work. I would be hesitant to try though. I haven't looked at the rim without a tire on it for a few months, but I don't think the rims have a decent enough edge for the tire bead to seat. I could be wrong though.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

I just installed The Plug. I used the expander and taking out the star nut proved to be difficult at first, but slid out nicely after working it a bit. 

What was a big pain was getting the wire integrated into the fork. I used a length of old brake cable and got that through the crown and blade holes easily. Then wrapped the wire to the other end an pulled slowly. 

Now I'll be able to recharge via my dynamo hub. 

I'll post a pic or two once I get them organized. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## jonbek (Nov 28, 2012)

I got my awol comp! Threw some rock n' roads on it this weekend and I've been loving life ever since—what a great bike/package!

Could someone please help me understand the bottom bracket standard? BB30 with a FSA Mega EVO 386? Am I correct is assuming this is a preset bb30? I'm asking because I want to accomplish two things a) understand which chris king bb to correctly buy and b) understand which spindle and length (i.e. bb30 68 or 72 etc) crankset to buy—I want to upgrade to sram cx1 or force 1.

Any help would be appreciated!


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

jonbek said:


> I got my awol comp! Threw some rock n' roads on it this weekend and I've been loving life ever since-what a great bike/package!
> 
> Could someone please help me understand the bottom bracket standard? BB30 with a FSA Mega EVO 386? Am I correct is assuming this is a preset bb30? I'm asking because I want to accomplish two things a) understand which chris king bb to correctly buy and b) understand which spindle and length (i.e. bb30 68 or 72 etc) crankset to buy-I want to upgrade to sram cx1 or force 1.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!


I thought that the 2016 Comp had a MegaExo Bottom Bracket like many of the other AWOLs?

The "30" in BB30 refers to the 30mm spindle, while the MegaExo has a 24mm spindle, so they are two different things entirely. The 386 is a proprietry FSA mountain bike bottom bracket with a smaller BCD.

To the best of my knowledge, a 68mm English threaded Bottom Bracket will work on AWOL frames, but fire up Google and have a look at the MegaExo standard and then go to Chris King and see if there's a product that will work with MegaExo cranks.


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

The AWOL has a standard threaded 1.37inx24T BSA bottom bracket shell.

The stock FSA MegaEvo bottom bracket on the current Comp model is simply a BB solution that adapts standard 68mm BSA threaded bottom bracket shells to FSA BB386EVO cranks. 

If you intend to replace both the stock cranks and the stock BB, then you don't need to concern yourself with the Mega/Evo crap. Buy whatever crank/BB combo you prefer, so long as the BB can fit 68mm BSA.


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## jonbek (Nov 28, 2012)

Cool thank you! So to confirm, I can buy a threaded gxp bb and crankset from sram and be all set? Rad!


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## ciquta (Nov 26, 2015)

On the 2016 comp is it possible to simply replace the stock 38t chainring with a smaller 34t or 36t?


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

ciquta said:


> On the 2016 comp is it possible to simply replace the stock 38t chainring with a smaller 34t or 36t?


Yes. it is a 110 BCD crank, so you can fit as low as a 34T ring.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Anyone else see this? It's a 650B conversion. Can't say I'm sold.


__
http://instagr.am/p/BCWaEDHJ4-r/


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Also, just wondering if anyone has tried to fit a 2.0 or 2.1 tire to a stock AWOL with the front Sora derailleur (it was discussed earlier in the thread by NZPeterG) and how it turned out?

I am really keen to run Freedom Thickslick 29x2.1 urban slicks on my AWOL at some stage and I am wondering if I will need to wait and change drivetrain components around to do it.

It has been done, as per the attached image, but that's one of the 100 limited edition Transcontinental AWOLs with a gates carbon belt drive, so clearance with the front derailleur is not an issue in that case.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> Also, just wondering if anyone has tried to fit a 2.0 or 2.1 tire to a stock AWOL with the front Sora derailleur (it was discussed earlier in the thread by NZPeterG) and how it turned out?


 Just curious, why would you need to run such wide rubber on AWOL? AWOL is a road touring bicycle (B-roads, a mondern take, etc...) and is already pushing width of the rubber into the real of mtb.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Partially aesthetics, in that I like the way those tires look a lot, and I just like fat slicks.

Also, though, those tires have decent puncture protection, wider tires support weight better (I am a very large guy) and they look like they would be nicely fast on pavement. 

Also, I am looking at having a set of 36 spoke wheels made up and the rims are rated to about 60 psi. Fat tires with a lot of air volume take lower pressure much more easily and I can't really put equally slick 700x28 tires on and inflate them to 100 psi or more due to the pressure on the rims.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> Partially aesthetics, in that I like the way those tires look a lot, and I just like fat slicks.


Took me a bit to connect two of your paragraphs  Ok, aesthetics are important!

Here is the suggestion: run full mtb 9 speed drivetrain. As you know and have discussed already, your shifters will work with RD but not with FD. For the latter, run jtek shiftmate to convert pull ratio. I don't remember shiftmate model number of the top of my head, but i think it is either 6C or 6B. That is what I would probably do, had I got AWOL. But I went with a different bike.

Good luck!


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

ryoanji said:


> Took me a bit to connect two of your paragraphs  Ok, aesthetics are important!
> 
> Here is the suggestion: run full mtb 9 speed drivetrain. As you know and have discussed already, your shifters will work with RD but not with FD. For the latter, run jtek shiftmate to convert pull ratio. I don't remember shiftmate model number of the top of my head, but i think it is either 6C or 6B. That is what I would probably do, had I got AWOL. But I went with a different bike.
> 
> Good luck!


The shiftmate for front derailleurs had flown below my radar, but it's perfect. Thanks.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Anyone from Canada knows if AWOL can be bought as frameset? Called couple of shops and they all say it is complete only, no framesets.


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## jaggittens (Oct 25, 2007)

Nope. Only available in the US. I just paid with my credit card and drove down and picked up my frame. It makes no sense I know, but the big S sucks. Frame is nice though.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

jaggittens said:


> Nope. Only available in the US. I just paid with my credit card and drove down and picked up my frame. It makes no sense I know, but the big S sucks. Frame is nice though.


Ouch, that sucks. As you can probably tell from my sig I am big fan of Surly and All-City. But something about AWOL - just feels right. 
I found out that 2015 AWOL (I guess basic) is on sale right now at 1299. I figured if I sell group and tires as take offs - would be pretty close to frameset price. I never bought a complete though - so means someone already cut the fork, etc.
I am going to US mid summer - may be makes sense to wait.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

PDKL45 said:


> Also, just wondering if anyone has tried to fit a 2.0 or 2.1 tire to a stock AWOL with the front Sora derailleur (it was discussed earlier in the thread by NZPeterG) and how it turned out?
> 
> Hi, I hope this doesn't waste your time but I have the 2014 AWOL with a SRAM front derailleur. I find 29er 2.0 and 2.1 knobblies are sort of tight but are just ok so slicks would probably fit OK. I note that instagram of AWOLs with knobblies seem to run 1.8 specialized tyres or nano 700x40c.
> 
> I was thinking of running some compass cycle 700x 35 slicks for my commute. The AWOL and I have a love hate relationship at the moment.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

Dysun said:


> I purchased an AWOL comp a few months ago, and I'm changing a few things up on it. I was just wondering if anyone has tried the Salsa Cowchipper bars yet?


 The cow chippers are really really great.


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

jonbek said:


> Hi are the rims on the standard 2016 AWOL Comp tubeless ready or no?


The 2014 AWOL comp seems to have similar rims (comparing mine to bike in shop). The rims can be set up tubeless but I have found it annoying as they leak easily and tyres don't bead easily. So I have new wheels that are amazing from a NZ company wellington wheelworks. They are made with WTB i23 rims.


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## ciquta (Nov 26, 2015)

mongol777 said:


> Anyone from Canada knows if AWOL can be bought as frameset? Called couple of shops and they all say it is complete only, no framesets.


Here in europe the frameset it's available, but I wonder if the fork is the same on all models and so for the frameset.

On the website they say Awol Comp 2016 can fit 2.2" tires... is that true also for the separate frameset?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Some cat's comment was deleted, making this one a non sequitur.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Went to LBS today to see AWOL in person, liked it a lot. Red Evo is to die for - what an eye candy.
Anyway - pricing is pretty good for complete 2015 here and I am very tempted to pull the trigger. Couple of questions to AWOL owners:
- Are you happy with stock wheels? Did not seem like a god quality item for some reason
- Sizing (and I will ask to fit me if I were to buy) - I am 5'10 (178cm) with about 33 real inseam and I was dead sure Medium is right for me. I was surprised I felt a bit stretched on it. So I tried Large (I know - no logic here ) and surprisingly it felt very good. I guess longer head tube and longer steer tube (had more speacers vs Medium AWOL) played some role here. Anyone with similar dimensions has Medium or Large, any regrets not going with another size?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

mongol777 said:


> Couple of questions to AWOL owners:
> - Are you happy with stock wheels? Did not seem like a god quality item for some reason
> - Sizing (and I will ask to fit me if I were to buy) - I am 5'10 (178cm) with about 33 real inseam and I was dead sure Medium is right for me. I was surprised I felt a bit stretched on it. So I tried Large (I know - no logic here ) and surprisingly it felt very good. I guess longer head tube and longer steer tube (had more speacers vs Medium AWOL) played some role here. Anyone with similar dimensions has Medium or Large, any regrets not going with another size?


I quite like the stock wheelset, mainly because the rims are quite wide to support the 700x42c tires. That said, I destroyed my front wheel and stock saddle (not to mention knee, elbow and shoulder) avoiding a couple of little kids running onto the bike path a month ago, so I am currently running a Cube 29er front wheel that I picked up from Chain Reaction Cycles. I had always intended on replacing the wheelset, though, so I was not devastated, and I am about to order new rims, hubs and spokes.

I ride a medium--the last medium in Korea--and I am 176cm. It fits me fine, although I could probably have fitted the Small. No regrets, though, I love my bike. The one regret I have, and this is very much a first world problem, is that the base model AWOL was not available in Korea and so I could not really personalize the bike as much as I might have liked to out of the gate. The 2016 base model is also a really cool color.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> I quite like the stock wheelset, mainly because the rims are quite wide to support the 700x42c tires. That said, I destroyed my front wheel and stock saddle (not to mention knee, elbow and shoulder) avoiding a couple of little kids running onto the bike path a month ago, so I am currently running a Cube 29er front wheel that I picked up from Chain Reaction Cycles. I had always intended on replacing the wheelset, though, so I was not devastated, and I am about to order new rims, hubs and spokes.
> 
> I ride a medium--the last medium in Korea--and I am 176cm. It fits me fine, although I could probably have fitted the Small. No regrets, though, I love my bike. The one regret I have, and this is very much a first world problem, is that the base model AWOL was not available in Korea and so I could not really personalize the bike as much as I might have liked to out of the gate. The 2016 base model is also a really cool color.


Thank you - appreciate detailed response. I am buying complete for the first time and intend to take off pretty much everything except the brakes. Still debating on wheels - I may just use spare wheelsets from Kona or Nature Boy for now so I can sell entire group as take off and don't have to deal with multiple listings. I will be buying 2015 model (raw with bronze cup - quite like it although this year olive with tan sidewall tires looks pretty good too). I'll try both MD and LG tomorrow again and see how it goes.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Thank you everyone who posted in this thread - helped me a lot to narrow down my choice to AWOL. Scored 2015 Elite today for a good price from my LBS. Totally unexpected as I was budgeting and looking for base model but got Elite instead for pretty much same price and with TPR brakes. I do love my BB7s but long wanted to try TPRs.
Love it so far - will change couple of things on the weekend and take for a shakedown ride before full rebuild. 
Pics as bought, went for Medium:


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Congratulations, it looks exactly the same as mine (Deluxe, 2014), but yours has the nicer brakes. One thing I would say at this stage, is that the cables rub the tops of the forks really bad. You can get Alligator Cable Protectors that are little soft silicone sleeves that fit on your cables and prevent them rubbing bare patches in the paint down to the steel, something that I learned too late. I have them in orange to match the ano highlights.

I am really interested in how you rebuild your AWOL, so keep us updated. I am staying with 3x9 components for now, but I would like to see what others come up with.

Also, a couple of things you may want to check. The spokes are likely unevenly tensioned, so you may want to have them seen to. On the same note, the hubs can be screwed down really tight, so you may need to loosen them off a bit. Both were issues with mine, the spokes in particular.

See how you go with that saddle too. Most AWOL owners seem to change that out almost immediately and my ass wept with joy when I got a new WTB saddle on mine. I really like the seatpost, stem and handlebars, though, and the details, like the AWOL logo on the headset cap.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Thank you and appreciate the tips! I was going to build it yesterday night and get riding today but there was a plot twist. When I put it on the stand to start taking off parts, etc I noticed little dimple inside the seatstay on non-drive side, right opposite of where you have rack upper mounts. So I took a pic, emailed the shop and told them I will be coming in the morning to see what can be done.
Well, I was blown away - they handled everything on the spot and since Specialized is closed on the weekend they just replaced entire bike! 
So below is my second AWOL 

I feel tired as I did not sleep well (I know but I am very OCD when it comes to my frames at built stage ) so I will take my time and hopefully will ride it tomorrow and post pics after. Plan is to swap the wheels, group, seatpost, bars and saddle - stay tuned!










Very impressed with Specialized and even more so with new to me LBS, they for sure got customer for life!


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

I have no patience so finished it today and took for really quick spin around the neighbourhood.
Still need to:
- Wrap matching bartape (will be same color as saddle), it's on its way to my LBS
- Shorten RD cable - did not cut it as not sure if I will keep mtb RD there
- Remove black electrical tape from the lower headtube and install frame protectors

Build list:
- Brakes are stock, TP Spyres and Tektro levers (540s?)
- Handlebars are Salsa Cowbell
- Wheels are A-Class (Alexrims really) CXD5
- Tires Clement MSO Explorer 700x40
- Velo Orange seatpost, Brooks B17 narrow and Brooks toolbag
- FD is 105, RD is I think Alivio, cassette is I think 12-34, cranks are 105, 50/34, ultegra BB, shifters are Dura Ace 9S barcons, friction and indexed, chain is Shimano 9s (don;t even remember the model)
- Pedals are some Wellgo's and bottle caages I think Bontrager stuff. I quite like them but want to try and find matching bronze/orange ones

Racks and fenders are off - I think I will use them on another bike. May be will put VO black hammerred fenders on this baby

Stock bike was just over 29 lbs on my scales, did not weigh this one yet.

























Love it so far and I think I will keep this setup for this year and may be switch to 1x11 next season, I don't really like FDs in general.

Also waiting for revelate tangle frame bag for longer rides, it is in the mail as well


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

Medium is correct choice I think mongol777. Bike looks very nice.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Ninox said:


> Medium is correct choice I think mongol777. Bike looks very nice.


Thank you!
I think Medium is good fit. Finally went for a ride today, around 32K, mostly backroads, mixed of hardpack, small gravel, big rocks gravel (like almost chicken egg size), wet clay and pavement. Wow, just wow - what a great bike! Tracks nicely, stable and comfy. I pumped the tires to the max just to see how frame would soak up road and it did fantastic job. Rides as good if not better as my Space Horse.

Quite happy with it - I was very hopefull that All City would release Space Horse Disc this year and that's what I saved my money for. But I am glad I read this entire thread and several others and went for AWOL, love it!

From today's ride


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

In terms of gearing - I think something like 38 in front and 11(12)-42 at the back would be ideal for how I intend to ride it. Did not have to walk uphill today but was very close couple of time, 34/34 was barely enough. Funny how gears and relaxed geo makes you think differently, I would clear same hills on Nature Boy SS and don't even think about it


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Couple of gearing options from Wolftooth if you want to lower your gear inches:

Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com

RoadLink ? wolftoothcomponents.com

*Edit: I like the single speed option as well, and a 40 tooth chainring seems to be a good size for a gravel bike/tourer. Relic just released (or announced) a 46/48T conversion kit (with additional 18T ring to smooth out shifting) for Shimano 11 Speed wide range cassettes. An 11-48T cassette on a 40/42T chainring would offer an acceptably wide range without sacrificing too much in the upper region.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> Couple of gearing options from Wolftooth if you want to lower your gear inches:
> 
> Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com
> 
> ...


I am running 9s setup on this build so it is a bit of a hassle to use range extender. I will eventually put 1x11 on it but 2x9 will work for now. Shifters are too good to give them up - they have quite a number of miles on them and I had them on different builds and they are still smooth and oh so fast and predictable (and I usually prefer friction if I have to run gears) 
I can of course just run RD in friction mode and it will turn 10s no problem (road). So I can get something like this SunRace MX3 10Spd 11-42T Cassette - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available and I am sure my RD will handle it with say 38 in the front (it's max tooth is 36).

And the warmer it gets the easier it will be to pedal, was quite chilly today and I did not dress properly. I ride year round and I find even my Moonlander rolls way faster when grass is green and sun is shining 

Single speed is awesome and they outnumber my geared bikes heavily. But gears have its place too.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Just putting together an XL AWOL Expert running the Fatboy 700 x 45 skinwall tires. Wondering what I can expect from using the extremes of the available dropout settings. I currently have them slammed forward, but won't be riding the bike for at least a couple weeks because I don't have all the parts for the build yet.

Just wondering if I can expect any difference in handling that I would notice, or are my choices simply between 'long' and 'longer' and not likely to produce a noticeable difference?


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## JaccoW (Mar 22, 2016)

This has got to be the longest thread with user experiences about these bikes. Loved reading all of it. 

I'm thinking of building one later this year running either an Alfine 11 or a Rohloff igh with a red beltdrive. But first let's see if I can do a test ride this weekend.


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## kasanc (Mar 27, 2016)

Been lurking this thread for a while, but I just wanted to thank everyone for their insight regarding the Awol. I've had my 2015 Elite for nearly 2 years now, and it's gone through a lot of changes from stock config given my learned riding and usage preferences. Over that time, I've commuted, ridden asphalt, gravel, singletrack, scaled mountains, raced alley cats, and camped under the stars on this bike. All in all, I couldn't be more pleased! I'd say I've pretty much settled into a steady-state gear config (which is why I'm finally posting!). All that's left to do is keep on riding.

Current Build kit after the break.




























- Brake Levers: TRP RRL
- Shifters: Sram TT900
- Crankset: White Industries VBC 44-24 double
- Cassette: Sram 11-36
- RD: Sram X9
- FD: Shimano Tiagra
- Seatpost: Thomson Elite (0 setback)
- Stem: Thomson Elite X4 50mm
- Saddle: Specialized Phenom Comp
- Tires: Bruce Gordon Rock n' Roads (run tubeless)
- Front wheel: Shutter precision PD-8 Dynamo laced to Velocity Cliffhanger
- Rear wheel: Stock!
- Handlebars: Stock! 
- Brakes: TRP Spyre
- Pedals: Shimano M780
- Lights: Supernova E3 pro 2 (front) and E3 (rear)
- Racks: Pass and Stow + Wald Basket 137


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## Ninox (Apr 29, 2014)

PDKL45 said:


> Anyone else see this? It's a 650B conversion. Can't say I'm sold.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BCWaEDHJ4-r/


I saw it and liked it so I wrote to him and Eric Nohlin the AWOL designer. Works fine. Can also run 2.1s on 700c tires if using adjustable dropouts.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

mongol777 said:


> Sizing (and I will ask to fit me if I were to buy) - I am 5'10 (178cm) with about 33 real inseam and I was dead sure Medium is right for me. I was surprised I felt a bit stretched on it. So I tried Large (I know - no logic here ) and surprisingly it felt very good. I guess longer head tube and longer steer tube (had more speacers vs Medium AWOL) played some role here.


 Checking geometry charts, it is very very interesting that there is very little difference between in *reach* between AWOL models:

S to M is just 6mm (!) 
M to L is 12mm 
L to XL is even less 5mm!

What you gain most by going up a size with AWOL is stack. So, maybe your experience was not every surprising.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

ryoanji said:


> Checking geometry charts, it is very very interesting that there is very little difference between in *reach* between AWOL models:
> 
> S to M is just 6mm (!)
> M to L is 12mm
> ...


I went with M, happy so far. Thinking of trying to put Jones bar from my Moonie to try


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

This is an image of an AWOL running Jones bars collected from some other forum, maybe road bike review? Looks a bit strange without the AWOL drops, but would probably feel awesome to ride. Those bars also have a huge amount of real estate for mounting lights, etc.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Thanks man - I did the swap yesterday. I LOVE Jones bars on it, will post pics later this week. Funny but I also found out that I really like AWOL stock handlebars, I put them on my Cross Check. After several rides with them on AWOL and one on xcheck today I defintely prefer them to Salsa BellLap, Cowbell and Woodchippers (they all used to be my goto gravel/dirt bars). Pics of xcheck are in Surly CrossCheck thread in Surly sub


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Changed couple of things - got new cassette 12-36 and replaced crank with 34/46 CX50 and CX70 FD. Put barcons onto Paul thumbies. Also tried some different tire sizes.
But first things first - Jones bar as promised


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Now about tires - Schalbe Big Apples 29x2.35 will fit without fenders on stock rims. I forgot to take picture but will when I fit them for summer.
I also tried 650B. Pics below are Pacenti Neo-Motos, 27.5x2.3 mounted on Blunts, 35mm wide. Fit is great with plenty of room for mud with fenders. I think even fatter tires will fit (with smooth thread and perhaps on narrower rims). Don't think I will keep them on but a good option if I plan to say ride on really bumpy roads or offroads

Driveside









Front fork - crappy pic, did not really capture clearance









Rear from non-drive side









Upside down, chainstay









I am more excited about big apples though. I had them on two of my Karate Monkeys before I sold them and they roll very nice. I may get Fat Franks in 2.0 so I can keep the fenders on too.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

I so wish I could buy a set of the stock AWOL fenders... The store I purchased my AWOL from thought they could get me a set but they never came through.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

edthesped said:


> I so wish I could buy a set of the stock AWOL fenders... The store I purchased my AWOL from thought they could get me a set but they never came through.


Velo Orange has some nice 63mm fenders, VO Fluted 63mm Fenders, 700c - 700c - Fenders, Accessories, Hardware - Accessories and 52mm VO Zeppelin 52mm Fenders 700c, Noir - 700c - Fenders, Accessories, Hardware - Accessories 
And of course Honjo fenders although only if you run narrower tires


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

I do not have a lot of patience so here you go, Big Apples 29x2.35 on stock wheels. They are my spare set so not a lot of wear but they are stretched for sure (even had them on 50mm rabbit holes at some point)

Clearance:

Chainstays









Seatstays









Fork









Will be swapping and aligning rotors and cassette tomorrow and will probably ride on Sun


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Some of the best photos in this thread so far Mongol, you've really inspired me. Those 650B tyres look really, really cool with the mudguards, and it looks like Schwalbe Super Moto X 27.5x2.4 tyres on 25mm rims would fit.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Thanks! Yeah, I think 27.5x2.4 should fit no problem with fenders - post pics if you decide to go this route. I had Super Motos in 29 - liked it a lot.
I really like this bike so far, almost as fun as Surly bikes to play around (in terms of trying different configs).


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

mongol777 said:


> Thanks! Yeah, I think 27.5x2.4 should fit no problem with fenders - post pics if you decide to go this route. I had Super Motos in 29 - liked it a lot.
> I really like this bike so far, almost as fun as Surly bikes to play around (in terms of trying different configs).


I definitely will, but the 29x2.35 Big Apples have really got my attention right now. There is a cheap new DT Swiss 36h rim (545d 700c) designed for eBikes that I can order here in Korea , 36h 650B rims being somewhat scarce around these parts, and the Big Apples, as well as Thickslicks, have always intrigued me.

I was just looking at various components, compact road doubles/derailleurs/shifters, wide range cassettes etc, thinking of possibilities within my budget if paired with Wolftooth products. There's a new SunRace 11-42t MS3 10-speed Cassette available from Germany at a decent price, that, if combined with a Wolftooth Goatlink, would give a touring gearing range on a compact double crankset and would allow for drop bars to be retained.

I am going to call in on my LBS in Seoul tomorrow to pick up a couple of things and check out his generic Jones-style loop bars as well. Loop bars would allow for SLX hydraulic brakes and I like the look of the Giant Scout bikepacking bags, which would fit under loop bars just nicely.

Nice to have options.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Defintely nice to have options! If you are going to run big apples - 2.35 will not fit with fenders. But 2.0 will and I would go with Fat Franks version instead for this bike if I were to run fenders. For summer I will keep big apples and by fall I will likely get these and run them with fenders


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Why not use Specialized tyres.


Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Because certain Specialized Tyres are only available in some markets. The offerings here in Korea are very slim and the kid at the local Specialized shop tried to tell me that 700x45 Fatboy slicks do not exist, chuckling patronizingly and telling me that that tyre's actually called a Nimbus and it only goes up to 700x38. And then the LBS guys in Korea have the cheek to question why people turn to the Internet...

Plus, Schwalbe make awesome tyres with really good puncture protection in varying levels of strength and weight and in a massive amount of options. Few manufacturers come close to Schwalbe in terms of on/off road touring and gravel tyres IMHO.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi yes we in New Zealand are lucky to have a lot of Specialized SKU's (parts and bike model's) for a small country. 
We some time have to buy from Ebay to get Specialized tyres etc.


Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

NZPeterG said:


> Why not use Specialized tyres.
> 
> Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


Why limit tires to just Specialized? I like options and I like trying new things. And tire is easily most often ovrelooked component of the bike yet right tire and pressure can singlehandedly make your ride torture or pleasure.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

The best things Specialized make and the 1st thing Specialized made is bicycle tyres. 
That why I asked 
Plus Specialized is one of the few with a tyre replacement if it's not right 


Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

NZPeterG said:


> The best things Specialized make and the 1st thing Specialized made is bicycle tyres.
> That why I asked
> Plus Specialized is one of the few with a tyre replacement if it's not right
> 
> Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


May be it is their best thing but there are so many tire makers and so many tires and a lot of them are much better suited to where and how I ride and have better riding characterisitics for me. I am a big fan of Clement tires for example (have half of their line up on different bikes) and I like Schwalbe Big Apples and similar tires from them for their hardwear and longevity. Etc, etc, etc - all above is of course my personal opinion. 
And very few times when I had to deal on warranty/customer satisfaction with tire makers directly or with LBS - no hassle, great customer service from all of them.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

kasanc said:


> I'd say I've pretty much settled into a steady-state gear config (which is why I'm finally posting!).
> 
> Current Build kit after the break.
> 
> ...


I would like to get your comments regarding the White Industries VBC crankset with 24/44 chainrings. That is quite a spread, and it looks like you're using a road bike FD.

I have ordered the VBC cranks with 26/42 chainrings to use with an 11-36 cassette. I will admit to wishing I had the 20t gear differential with 24/44 chainrings like you have, but was concerned that shifting would be less than ideal. . . . . or worse.

Id also like to know the BB width you ended up with?

TIA



PDKL45 said:


> Because certain Specialized Tyres are only available in some markets. The offerings here in Korea are very slim and the kid at the local Specialized shop tried to tell me that 700x45 Fatboy slicks do not exist, chuckling patronizingly and telling me that that tyre's actually called a Nimbus and it only goes up to 700x38. And then the LBS guys in Korea have the cheek to question why people turn to the Internet...


Fatboy and Numbus are the same thing? LOL. Not even close. Fatboy is a slick, and the Nimbus had 'tread'. Other than both coming in 700c diameters, there is quite a bit of difference. Not sure if I will stick with the Fatboys long term, but they will be on my AWOL for the first several rides.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

jeffj said:


> Fatboy and Numbus are the same thing? LOL. Not even close. Fatboy is a slick, and the Nimbus had 'tread'. Other than both coming in 700c diameters, there is quite a bit of difference. Not sure if I will stick with the Fatboys long term, but they will be on my AWOL for the first several rides.


I was moderately interested in the fatboys, but the service and general attitude of Specialized Korea shops is just abysmal. I am currently tossing up Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour against Schwalbe Little Big Bens.


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## Tinman (Aug 18, 2013)

I would like to see some AWOL build photo's with more flared dirt drop bars and bar end micro shifters please......

Midge Bars, Origin 8's versions etc. These mild 12 degree flare road bike drops don't do it for be personally on this type of a bike.

Thanks


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## pedalmalaya (Mar 31, 2016)

Hi, what rear hub and rim do you guys use? 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## kasanc (Mar 27, 2016)

jeffj said:


> I would like to get your comments regarding the White Industries VBC crankset with 24/44 chainrings. That is quite a spread, and it looks like you're using a road bike FD.
> 
> I have ordered the VBC cranks with 26/42 chainrings to use with an 11-36 cassette. I will admit to wishing I had the 20t gear differential with 24/44 chainrings like you have, but was concerned that shifting would be less than ideal. . . . . or worse.
> 
> Id also like to know the BB width you ended up with?


Sure. While the front shifting isn't what I'd describe as "buttery smooth" by any stretch, it _is_ very consistent. The front shifter is friction, so as long as I pull up firmly and am ginger with the pedal pressure (read: not mashing) then the shift will always be successful. Down shifting to the little ring is even smoother. The chain hasn't ever come off given proper limit screw adjustment. The biggest downside is the sudden large shift in cadence, but that doesn't bother me much personally since, as I'll explain, I don't shift up front much anyway.

That being said, my mentality with the drivetrain was as follows:

1. have as wide a gear range possible given a 45 tooth rear capacity
2. have as few redundant gears as possible

Thus, like you, I opted for a wide range double with a big MTB cassette.

In practice, the local terrain and my riding style keep me from having to ever use the front shifter more than once or twice a ride if at all.

Unloaded around town or loaded on flats/rolling hills, the 44t is just fine and I can run a pseudo 1x10.

Loaded mountain climbing or single track riding has me using the 24t for the duration of that ride.

Also, I ended up with a 113mm White industries bottom bracket.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

kasanc said:


> Sure. . . . . . .


Thanks for the detailed response!


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

pedalmalaya said:


> Hi, what rear hub and rim do you guys use?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Hi I used a DT Swiss 350 rear hub laced to a WTB KOM 23i rim with DT Swiss DB spokes.
Run it tubeless of course  
Had no time to build up a front wheel for Bikepacking event I rode.

Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## pedalmalaya (Mar 31, 2016)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi I used a DT Swiss 350 rear hub laced to a WTB KOM 23i rim with DT Swiss DB spokes.
> Run it tubeless of course
> Had no time to build up a front wheel for Bikepacking event I rode.
> 
> Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


Thanks for the reply. I just bought Hed Belgium Plus rims and planning buy White Industries XMR for the rear. Any XMR user here?


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

anyone used those velocity blunt 35mm wide rims on an awol? not sure how well ground control 1.9/2.1 would clear on rims that wide


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

*AWOL Maiden Voyage*

A couple things yet to finalize, but this is most of what it will end up as.









Build Specs

Frame: XL AWOL Expert frameset 
Seatpost: Specialized 27.2 mm CG-R
Saddle: Specialized Power Expert 168 mm
Wheels: Roval Control EL 29
Tires: Specialized Fatboy 700c x 45c (1.7")
Handlebar: Salsa Cowbell 2
Stem: Specialized 90 mm x 17°
Tape: Fizik
Brifters: SRAM Apex 2x10
Crankset: White Industries VBC (black/black) 26/42
Pedals: Shimano PD-A530 (black)
Brakes: TRP HY/RD (black) @ 160 mm rotors (F&R)
Brake Cables/Housings: SRAM Slickwire
Front Derailleur: SRAM Apex 2x10
Rear Derailleur: SRAM XX Medium Cage (to be swapped out for long cage)
Cassette: Shimano CS-HG81 (11-36)
Chain: SRAM 1071
Cages: Specialized Roll Cage - matte black (3)


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## pedalmalaya (Mar 31, 2016)

Anyone selling stock awol dropbar?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## kasanc (Mar 27, 2016)

pedalmalaya said:


> Anyone selling stock awol dropbar?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


I'd give you mine if I could just track down some Cowchippers. In lieu of that, I'm fairly certain the stock bars are similar to Salsa Cowbells.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Made a few changes recently (changed parts in bold italics):

Frame: XL AWOL Expert frameset 
Seatpost: *Thomson Masterpiece 27.2 mm*
Saddle: Specialized Power Expert 168 mm
Wheels: Roval Control EL 29
Tires: Specialized Fatboy 700c x 45c (1.7")
Handlebar: Salsa Cowbell 2
Stem: *Giant 90 mm x 6°*
Tape: Fizik
Brifters: SRAM Apex 2x10
Crankset: White Industries VBC (black/black) 26/42
Pedals: Shimano PD-A530 (black)
Brakes: TRP HY/RD (black) @ 160 mm rotors (F&R)
Brake Cables/Housings: SRAM Slickwire
Front Derailleur: *Shimano CX70*
Rear Derailleur: _*SRAM GX1 Long Cage*_
Cassette: Shimano CS-HG81 (11-36)
Chain: SRAM 1071
Cages: Specialized Roll Cage - matte black (3)

Also swapped tires to Specialized 700 x 47 Trigger Sport tires for a few rides, but have since gone back to the Fatboys. The Triggers had a VERY square profile, and had a strange feel while cornering at higher speeds. OTOH, they were very nice on dirt when going in a straight line. Bummer. I had high hopes for those tires for everyday use.

The switch from the Apex 2 x 10 FD to the Shimano CX70 helped shifting (especially going from the small chainring to the large chainring) dramatically. I couldn't get the Apex FD cage down close to the large chainring as the lower end of the cage would hit the chainstay, so there was about a good 5 mm gap. Much better now as the cage on the CX70 is short enough that I can get the cage down to within a millimeter or so of the large chainring, and there is about 4 mm or 5 mm of space between the bottom of the cage and the chainstay.

I put on a stem with less rise (but still 90 mm long), and moved a 10 mm spacer from under the stem to the top of the stem.

Haven't had a good ride since the latest changes, but hoping to improve handling in paved corners. As it was, my flat bar Sirrus handled better in the corners with 38c Panaracer Comet tires

This pic shows the Trigger tires (better looking than the skinwall Fatboys, but I didn't care for their road manners).


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## JaccoW (Mar 22, 2016)

Very nice bike Jeffj. Almost didn't recognize it the second time.
How do you like the TRP's?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

JaccoW said:


> Very nice bike Jeffj. Almost didn't recognize it the second time.
> How do you like the TRP's?


The TRP's are . . . . interesting. I am using SRAM Apex 2x10 brifters that are a few years old. I ended up modifying the cable mount because there was simply too much lever throw need to engage the brakes when the cable was in the stock position at the outer end of the arm. I drilled a hole so the cable would be routed to the inside of the bolt, and now the brakes are fully engaged with a good 1/2" gap between the shift lever and the handlebar.

I was a little leary to modify a brand new brake, but I saw a post somewhere that had one of the TRP reps basically saying not to worry about modifying the arm this way as they could sell you a new arm if you messed your's up doing the mod. The cable now passes very close to the master cylinder, but doesn't actually touch it.

Also, I transport my bike in my car quite often, and need to remove the front wheel to do so. I have been noticing that, for some reason unknown to me yet, the piston(s) are often somewhat extended when I go to put the front wheel back on. I have began to keep a pad spacer in there when transporting the bike. I will say that the piston(s) are not difficult to push back in, and I can usually do it using just my fingers. I might be banging the brake lever on the back of the driver's seat when putting the bike into or taking it out of my car. I will be watching that closely to figure out why this is happening when I haven't previously had this issue. This is the first drop bar bike I have had with disc brakes.

Brake performance is pretty decent. Being a bigger dude, I will be going to a 180 rotor up front (the largest Specialized said was OK for the front rotor).
======================
I'd also like to put it out there that I am quite pleased with the White Industries VBC crankset. I ordered it direct from White Industries, and figured out after I ordered it that I hadn't ordered to tool needed to install/remove the large chainring to the crankarm. Not to worry though, as WI was astute enough to see what was happening and shipped the crankset with the rings installed (kudos for that). I also think they are a good looking crankarm for this type of bike.

Gearing is one place the mainstream component makers (SRAM, Shimano) haven't done a great job with respect to this type of bike. It took a lot of research to figure out what my best course of action should be. I am happy I chose the path that I did as it works well for me, and has some additional flexibility there to change things up should I feel the need to for a given situation.
======================
Being that I don't intend to always be riding this bike wearing actual riding clothes, I think I'd like to try one of the Brooks C17 Canbium Carved saddles.

After that, I think it will be time to sort out the front rack situation. 
======================
Putting this bike together as a frame up build has been an interesting experience. It's not a hugely popular segment in the overall scheme of things, so unique builds tend to expose unique issues.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

jeffj said:


> After that, I think it will be time to sort out the front rack situation.


I'm in the same situation, I'm actually looking for one but not sure if I buy the Tara or the Blackburn Outpost Front (with Ortlieb front roller classic bags).


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

Papanowel said:


> I'm in the same situation, I'm actually looking for one but not sure if I buy the Tara or the Blackburn Outpost Front (with Ortlieb front roller classic bags).


For road touring, the Tara is great. I ordered an Outpost rack for off road and didn't like it, fiddly to mount on the Awol and the quality didn't seem very good - seemed to wobble and the bottom mount was a pain to get right. Ended up selling to a friend. Now I've just bought (but haven't installed yet) the Pizza rack which seems to be the perfect design as it was made for the Awol and has a much bigger top platform than the Blackburn!


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Can you please post close up pic of the brake mod?


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

mongol777 said:


> Can you please post close up pic of the brake mod?


Here's the video.

Jeffj, do you have contact information for the replacement actuator arm? I am in need of one.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

edthesped said:


> Here's the video.
> 
> Jeffj, do you have contact information for the replacement actuator arm? I am in need of one.


Thank you! I went with different setup for my AWOL with Nitto Bosco bars but brake levers I have have same pull as before. I was contemplating to install Avid speed dials but may try this mod first


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

mongol777 said:


> Can you please post close up pic of the brake mod?













edthesped said:


> Here's the video.
> 
> Jeffj, do you have contact information for the replacement actuator arm? I am in need of one.


She has posted here on MTBR a couple of times. Her handle is: TRP Katie

Katie Teubner
TRP Brakes
Customer Service and Warranty Representative
[email protected]


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

mongol777 said:


> Thank you! I went with different setup for my AWOL with Nitto Bosco bars but brake levers I have have same pull as before. I was contemplating to install Avid speed dials but may try this mod first


Awesome! How do you like the Bosco's on the AWOL? I run a set on the Randonee and find the cockpit to be a little cramped but I really really like them for long distances at lower speeds.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

jeffj said:


> View attachment 1066203
> 
> 
> She has posted here on MTBR a couple of times. Her handle is: TRP Katie
> ...


That looks a little more polished than the hacksaw method in the video but would guess it's purely aesthetic.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

edthesped said:


> That looks a little more polished than the hacksaw method in the video but would guess it's purely aesthetic.


I did the hacksaw method on the rear arm, and the slot my hacksaw cut was not wide enough for the brake cable. After fiddling around trying to make the slot a little wider for a while, I eventually just drilled a hole at the bottom of the slot on that one, and was instantly good to go. I figured that a hole by itself would retain more strength anyway, so on the front brake's arm, I just went with the hole.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Rod Kimble said:


> For road touring, the Tara is great. I ordered an Outpost rack for off road and didn't like it, fiddly to mount on the Awol and the quality didn't seem very good - seemed to wobble and the bottom mount was a pain to get right. Ended up selling to a friend. Now I've just bought (but haven't installed yet) the Pizza rack which seems to be the perfect design as it was made for the Awol and has a much bigger top platform than the Blackburn!


Thank you for you answer.

As I live in Europe and cycling mainly on good roads (sometime paved), I guess the Tara is the way to go for me then (the pizza rack is not sold in Europe, at least not in the Benelux).


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## harald_legner (Nov 13, 2005)

Papanowel said:


> Thank you for you answer.
> 
> As I live in Europe and cycling mainly on good roads (sometime paved), I guess the Tara is the way to go for me then (the pizza rack is not sold in Europe, at least not in the Benelux).


Specialized Pizza Rack Gepäckträger für Awol | online kaufen They ship to Benelux.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Argh I can't believe there aren't any specialized awol left in my and neighbouring countries.. Ready to throw my money at specialized but I'm forced to look at other brands.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

harald_legner said:


> Specialized Pizza Rack Gepäckträger für Awol | online kaufen They ship to Benelux.


Thank you 



Hyloba said:


> Argh I can't believe there aren't any specialized awol left in my and neighbouring countries.. Ready to throw my money at specialized but I'm forced to look at other brands.


I had the exact same problem last year at the same period. No Awol in XL size were left in Wallonia. Luckily I have found one left in the UK.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Papanowel said:


> I had the exact same problem last year at the same period. No Awol in XL size were left in Wallonia. Luckily I have found one left in the UK.


Did you drive there? Or get it shipped?

Edit: ooh, I've found a site which can send it! Now to know the perfect size. I'm 5'7" with an inseam of 32" and I've test driven a medium elite which felt kind of big. I'm not sure if a small will be perfect however.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Hyloba said:


> Did you drive there? Or get it shipped?
> 
> Edit: ooh, I've found a site which can send it! Now to know the perfect size. I'm 5'7" with an inseam of 32" and I've test driven a medium elite which felt kind of big. I'm not sure if a small will be perfect however.


I read on another forum that the AWOL has been discontinued by S, I personally find it hard to believe but anything is possible.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

edthesped said:


> I read on another forum that the AWOL has been discontinued by S, I personally find it hard to believe but anything is possible.


Doubt it, my LBS told me they're out of stock and they're expecting new ones with the start of the next season (July). Same as with the Trek 520 here.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Hyloba said:


> Doubt it, my LBS told me they're out of stock and they're expecting new ones with the start of the next season (Juli). Same as with the Trek 520 here.


I'm a bit skeptical myself.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

So I didn't know the frame of the awol is so big. I was planning to get a medium (5'7" height and 31.5" inseam). But when I compared sizes it matches a 56 surly lht. I always thought I would need a 52 lht! Should it be better to buy a small awol then? The difference really is absurd!


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

The Awol has a very long top tube compared to most drop bar bikes, but comes with a short stem to compensate. The benefit of having a longer toptube is there's less chance of toe overlap with the front wheel, which is better for shoter riders, especially if you mount bigger tyres/mudguards. It also make you feel like you're riding "in" the bike rather than "on" it, which a lot of people prefer.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Rod Kimble said:


> The Awol has a very long top tube compared to most drop bar bikes, but comes with a short stem to compensate. The benefit of having a longer toptube is there's less chance of toe overlap with the front wheel, which is better for shoter riders, especially if you mount bigger tyres/mudguards. It also make you feel like you're riding "in" the bike rather than "on" it, which a lot of people prefer.


That's true! I'm glad to know the reason behind it. Would you suggest a medium or small frame then for my height and inseam (5'7" and 31.5")? I have slightly smaller torso and longer legs compared to the average.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

What Rod said is spot on. Also it's better to use stack and reach to determine what size will you will need. I ride a 54 or 56 on most bikes, but I compared the stack and reach of those bikes to the AWOL sizes and I'm happily riding a small frame. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Great_Egret said:


> What Rod said is spot on. Also it's better to use stack and reach to determine what size will you will need. I ride a 54 or 56 on most bikes, but compared the stack and reach of those bikes to the AWOL sizes and I'm happily riding a small frame.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


It's hard to use stack and reach if the handlebar stem can differ quite a lot. Also I would like to add that I like to sit more upright than low. So it's either a shorter reach for the small, or a higher stack and maybe too long reach on the medium.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

Hyloba said:


> It's hard to use stack and reach if the handlebar stem can differ quite a lot. Also I would like to add that I like to sit more upright than low. So it's either a shorter reach for the small, or a higher stack, but maybe too long reach on the medium.


I disagree. The stem length is not included in reach measurements on any bike. Just like seat height isn't included in stack. It's one of the many reasons stack and reach is the optimal way to determine bike size.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Great_Egret said:


> I disagree. The stem length is not included in reach measurements on any bike. Just like seat height isn't included in stack. It's one of the many reasons stack and reach is the optimal way to determine bike size.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Yeah but the AWOL stack and reach are quite a lot longer or higher than any other touring bikes. A size 54 Trek 520 has stack and reach values that match an XS AWOL.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

Don't compare sizes. Compare only stack and reach measurement. I ride a 54 Soma Wolverine I used to have a 56 Specialized Secture. I ride a small AWOL. All have similar stack and reach measurements. All fit me well. A friend of mine rides a 54 Trek 520. That bike is too small for me. The stack and reach measurements are shorter than other bikes I ride. 

Stack and reach measurements are impervious to size classifications that vary widely from one manufacturer to another. Even from bike to bike. A small 520 does not equal a small in another bike, but those stack and reach measurements, regardless of size, will always be the same. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Great_Egret said:


> Don't compare sizes. Compare only stack and reach measurement. I ride a 54 Soma Wolverine I used to have a 56 Specialized Secture. I ride a small AWOL. All have similar stack and reach measurements. All fit me well.
> 
> Stack and reach measurements are impervious to size classifications that vary widely from one manufacturer to another. Even from bike to bike. A small 520 does not equal a small in another bike, but those stack and reach measurements, regardless of size, will always be the same.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


I don't compare sizes in the way you think. If I go according to reach and stack, I would need an XS AWOL, even though Specialized suggests a M for my size (5'7") and suggests an XS for a height of 5'2" or smaller.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

Hyloba said:


> I don't compare sizes in the way you think. If I go according to reach and stack, I would need an XS AWOL, even though they suggest a M for my size (5'7") and suggest an XS for a height of 5'2" or smaller.


It's because they are suggesting by height and possibly inseam. Bike fit specialists no longer use height and inseam to determine fit. They are and should move to stack and reach. Two riders can be the same height, but have different length inseams or different length torsos. Plus, with that sloping top tube, inseam is meaningless with the AWOL.

I'm 5' 10" with a 31 inseam. I've been riding "medium" or larger bikes my whole life, until I bought my AWOL.

With all this said. The very best way to determine if a bike will fit is to go out and test ride it. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Thank you for your response Great_Egret. I've been doing a bit of testing at the moment using this chart: - We got quite a few questions about the stack and...

I feel very comfortable with a bike reach of 43 cm (small) and a bike stack of 68 cm (medium). Now the question is: is it possible to easily lift up the handlebar 2 cm? Or is the only possible way to buy a stem with a steeper angle? I guess it would be harder for the reach to be reduced on a medium as the stem is already quite short?


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

When I bought my Awol it came with a 70mm stem that had a lot of adjustability via an internal sleeve that can be reversed, along with flipping the stem it gives about 15 degrees of range. Also the stock Awol has a very long steerer tube, with I think probably about 30/40mm of spacers so you can fine tune the handlebar height very easily.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Rod Kimble said:


> When I bought my Awol it came with a 70mm stem that had a lot of adjustability via an internal sleeve that can be reversed, along with flipping the stem it gives about 15 degrees of range. Also the stock Awol has a very long steerer tube, with I think probably about 30/40mm of spacers so you can fine tune the handlebar height very easily.


Thank you for the info! So I guess you also suggest buying the small and increase the height of the handlebar?


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## Rod Kimble (May 16, 2013)

If you can try both that would be best, but depends on your riding style. It's not the sort of bike that needs a stretched out roadie position, so if the small feels more natural you should go for that. I'm 6'1" and could have gone either L or XL, I went for the L and that was a good decision for me as I prefer more "head up" riding style. This also feels nicer on offroad stuff as I can move around on the bike a bit more easily.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Rod Kimble said:


> If you can try both that would be best, but depends on your riding style. It's not the sort of bike that needs a stretched out roadie position, so if the small feels more natural you should go for that. I'm 6'1" and could have gone either L or XL, I went for the L and that was a good decision for me as I prefer more "head up" riding style. This also feels nicer on offroad stuff as I can move around on the bike a bit more easily.


Sadly I can't try any touring bike in my country, and I would need to drive half a day or longer to do so. I also prefer to sit more upright and I always thought you should get a bigger size as it comes with a higher handlebar. However if I emulate a medium size AWOL, I have to stretch myself too far forward it's not pleasant. So I think a shorter reach is better for me, and then placing the handlebar an inch or so higher.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Just wanted to say I can't get the awol 2016 anymore. Thought I could order one from UK, but turns out it doesn't ship to my country. Guess I'll have to wait until august, sigh I was looking forward to riding during spring.


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## Hyloba (Apr 24, 2016)

Quick question: Can you put fenders on the specialized awol comp 2016 version? It has 29x1.9" tires.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hyloba said:


> Just wanted to say I can't get the awol 2016 anymore. Thought I could order one from UK, but turns out it doesn't ship to my country. Guess I'll have to wait until august, sigh I was looking forward to riding during spring.


Well you would be best to put a order in on one in August. 
Because Specialized only make a limited number of the Awol's each year. 
Good luck

Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Quick Answer: Yes, if you change the tires to 700x45C (about 29 x 1.7 inches) or below.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

So after several builds, weeks of riding and testing - almost done, this is how it will roll until All City releases Space Horse with discs (which is who knows when).
Couple of small things left:
- Wheels - I will keep stock for riding late fall to early spring but for summer I will likely get something like VO touring wheelset. Not pulling the trigger yet as I want to put some mileage with 650B wheels and decide which would work best
- Fenders will be VO's 65mm ones, polished silver 
- Fat Franks will stay with stock wheels and for new wheelset I will likely get something from Compass
- Front rack will be same as stock but also want in polished silver
- Housing is a bit long on purpose as I was trying different drops and stems, will shorten during next maintenance
- And small detail but want to get stem head cap in orange.

Overall very happy, love how it rides, Fat Franks truly shine on gravel. If anyone thinks about getting them - 29x2.0 fit with fenders just fine, clearance is plenty
Bike is dusty as it does not see a lot of pavement, 90% on backroads.

Not everyone's cup of tea but I like how shiny bits and orange details lightened up bike's look


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> Quick Answer: Yes, if you change the tires to 700x45C (about 29 x 1.7 inches) or below.


Stock fenders clear 29x2.0 roadish (not knobbies) easy on stock rims. I will measure true size of Fat Franks on stock wheels when I find my caliper but should be around 700x50


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I think I am getting close to getting this bike dialed in.

Did not care for the high speed handling on pavement, so I made a couple of changes.

Took off the square-ish profile 47c Trigger tires. The traction on dirt was nice, as was the extra volume, but that big square edge just didn't handle well. Went back to the Fatboy 700 x 45c (blackwall this time) and also lowered the stem. Handling was much improved.

Added a RT-86 180 mm rotor on the front, and a Brooks C17 Cambium saddle. A Surly front rack is on it's way from MN.


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## drummerdavid (Jun 13, 2013)

Here's mine.
Have had it 3 weeks.

AWOL Expert frameset
Soma Oxford bars
Specialized Trigger Sport 47c tires
SKS Fenders

Did 80 miles on gravel/dirt roads last Sunday. Rode just great.







[/URL]AWOL 01 by dgodave dgodavid, on Flickr[/IMG]


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

drummerdavid said:


> Here's mine.
> Have had it 3 weeks.
> 
> AWOL Expert frameset
> ...


That's such a good looking bike, those Soma bars work perfectly with it. Do you ever ride the tops of those bars? They look like they would be perfect for adding some bar tape or foam with a couple of TOGS thumb grips to offer an alternative hand position/maintain circulation.


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## drummerdavid (Jun 13, 2013)

PDKL45 said:


> That's such a good looking bike, those Soma bars work perfectly with it. Do you ever ride the tops of those bars? They look like they would be perfect for adding some bar tape or foam with a couple of TOGS thumb grips to offer an alternative hand position/maintain circulation.


Thanks! Actually I have since taped the bar "fronts" because I do ride there from time to time. Never heard of the togs til now. Very interesting.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Hello guys, can someone show me how they mount their Tubus Tara? It seems that I'm unable to remove the wheel if I'm not removing the Tara first.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Papanowel said:


> Hello guys, can someone show me how they mount their Tubus Tara? It seems that I'm unable to remove the wheel if I'm not removing the Tara first.


Completely remove the skewer?


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

jeffj said:


> Completely remove the skewer?


Yes that would work too 

Thanks


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Papanowel said:


> Hello guys, can someone show me how they mount their Tubus Tara? It seems that I'm unable to remove the wheel if I'm not removing the Tara first.


I know the pictures aren't very clear but I used spacers to mount my Tara properly, on the rear eyelet, vs the front eyelet as done by S and I have no trouble mounting fenders or removing the wheel without removing the skewer.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

edthesped said:


> I know the pictures aren't very clear but I used spacers to mount my Tara properly, on the rear eyelet, vs the front eyelet as done by S and I have no trouble mounting fenders or removing the wheel without removing the skewer.


Thank you, sadly I can not do that, the new tubus tara (model 2016) is slightly different (the arm fixes are not the same). If I mont it like you did, the rack would lean too much to the front and the panier would not be correctly settled.

As long as it does not move while cycling, I'm ok to let the rack as Spe did.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Papanowel said:


> Thank you, sadly I can not do that, the new tubus tara (model 2016) is slightly different (the arm fixes are not the same). If I mont it like you did, the rack would lean too much to the front and the panier would not be correctly settled.
> 
> As long as it does not move while cycling, I'm ok to let the rack as Spe did.


I'm confused... The rack is different than shown here? 
http://www.tubus.com/documents/1321272002_Tara.pdf

Mine is installed exactly as shown in the instructions, without the spacers it is impossible to install properly.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

edthesped said:


> I'm confused... The rack is different than shown here?
> http://www.tubus.com/documents/1321272002_Tara.pdf
> 
> Mine is installed exactly as shown in the instructions, without the spacers it is impossible to install properly.


http://www.tubus.com/documents/1442216258_Tara_MA_24082015.pdf

The difference is on the arm (see number 1), you can see that the fixation point are not the same.

I'm going to post a pic in a few days and show you how it is if I do that. My frame is an Elite one from 2015, not the same than you.


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## Rory13 (May 26, 2015)

I picked up a AWOL Evo about a month back and man, I have road biked for a long time, had a dedicated cross bike and a hardtail 29er, and this bike is the most enjoyable bike I have owned. It has renewed my passion for cycling. 

Currently it's setup just the way it came from specialized except the front fender is removed, I'm not to keen on it. Any recommendations on fenders? 

Also for commuting I purchased the Brooks John O' Groats front Panniers. I got a good deal on them and hope they last. Will be looking at some type of rears when I plan out a multi day tour.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

Why don't you like the front fender? I don't have an opinion either way, I'm just curious. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

The AWOL is getting a more sporty little brother, the Sequoia.










Specialized Sequoia Review, 2017 Expert - BIKEPACKING.com

Call it a Comeback: Specialized Brings Back the Sequoia and its Versatile Design | The Radavist


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## Rory13 (May 26, 2015)

Great_Egret said:


> Why don't you like the front fender? I don't have an opinion either way, I'm just curious.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


I was having clearance issues with the stock tires and will want to run something wider in the future. I tried adjusting but it was just too close, I got some gravel in between the tires and fenders a few times and just removed the front.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

BluesDawg said:


> The AWOL is getting a more sporty little brother, the Sequoia.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great looking bike.

Another good article here:

Specialized revives the Sequoia road bike - BikeRadar USA

I would really like to get a set of those bars for my AWOL, and some of that bar tape as well. I already have a Brooks Cambium, or I would add the new saddle to the list as well. Oh, yeah, that new Sawtooth tire looks promising too.

I think it would have been nice to go with a 15QR axle for the front wheel on the Sequoia rather than a 12 x 100. That way, you could utilize some sweet XC MTB wheelsets on there if you buy the frame/fork option and build your own.

Always good to have more adventure bike options, and this looks promising.



Rory13 said:


> I picked up a AWOL Evo about a month back and man, I have road biked for a long time, had a dedicated cross bike and a hardtail 29er, and this bike is the most enjoyable bike I have owned. It has renewed my passion for cycling.
> 
> Currently it's setup just the way it came from specialized except the front fender is removed, I'm not to keen on it. Any recommendations on fenders?
> 
> Also for commuting I purchased the Brooks John O' Groats front Panniers. I got a good deal on them and hope they last. Will be looking at some type of rears when I plan out a multi day tour.


How do you like the Borough Armadillo tires?

You might look at the new Sawtooth 700 x 42. That might still be a good tire but have a little more clearance for the fenders. Lots of other good tire choices that would be give better fender clearance as well.


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

I have purchased a 2014 partially built AWOL comp (the previous owner pulled some components I was not interested in). As it sits it is a 3x9 setup and I would like to convert it to a 2x10 SRAM setup. 

Parts needed: 
- 2x10 cranks/chainring group and what chain ring size?
- front and rear derailleur (I do have an XO long cage 10 speed - not Type 2 however, I could use if applicable) 
- Disk Brakes (willing to go either mechanical or hydro)
- Brakes /shifter levers

I would like to build this up with quality components that will be reliable and quiet. Don't mind paying a bit extra as it will be a bike I intend to keep for a long time.

Greatly appreciate your input!!!


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> I have purchased a 2014 partially built AWOL comp (the previous owner pulled some components I was not interested in). As it sits it is a 3x9 setup and I would like to convert it to a 2x10 SRAM setup.
> 
> Parts needed:
> - 2x10 cranks/chainring group and what chain ring size?
> ...


The elephant in the room with this type of bike is the getting drivetrain parts you need to all work well together, at least it was for me. If you plan on doing some loaded touring and you'll be climbing hills, standard road gearing might anywhere from a little tall to way too tall.

It is designed for drop bars, so I'll assume that is what you'll be using. If a regular road drivetrain will work for the riding you'll do, then it will be easy. But this is an adventure bike that is designed for being loaded up from time to time.

Shimano and SRAM brifters only work with road bike front deraileurs. Road bike front derailleurs are made to run a chainline that could be 43.5 mm to 45 mm for 2x systems, and that matches road bike cranksets. 2x MTB chainline is wider than that, and with external bearing cranksets, difficult at best to move in far enough to to work with the road front derailleur. The problem is compounded in that the cage on a road derailleur will hit the top of the chainstay before it can get within 1-3 mm of the top of the chainring.

The Shimano CX70 front derailleur can help because the cage is shorter and made for CX chainrings. That is what I ended up using. I also ended up going with a square taper crankset so I could use BB size to adjust the chainline as needed. The crankset I ended up with is the White Industries VBC with a 24/42 chainring combo. That works wonderfully for me for all of the different types of riding I use the AWOL for, but YMMV. It took a LOT of investigation to go over all of the options, and I had a few different setups in mind before I finally landed on this one.

There are a number of different solutions that can work, but they do generally involve some degree of mixing and matching if you want some lower gearing and brifters.

On Shimano, 9 speed mountain GSG (long cage) derailleurs will work with Shimano 10 speed brifters and you can utilize up to an 11-36, 10 speed cassette, so you might be able to just go with compact (34/50) crankset and be good to go. It's when you need lower than that where things get interesting.

I have SRAM Apex 2x10 brifters, SRAM X9 10 speed long cage rear derailleur, Shimano CX70, 11-36, 10 speed cassette, and the square taper White Industries VBC crankset.

Your XO long cage RD will work with a setup like this.

Brakes are another matter as well. I went with TRP HY/RD disc brakes. They are cable operated up to the caliper, where it operates as as a hydraulic system from there. The Apex brifters are not the newest version, so the lever throw can be an issue with the HY/RD system. I ended up modifying the cable arm to move the cable mount inward, and this works well.

The bottom line is that bikes like this are not yet mainstream enough to have a lot of options for drivetrains. Many come with barcon shifters because of this, or maybe use the Gevenalle shifters which is basically a thumb shifter cobbled onto a road bike brake lever.

Not to scare you off, but the message I would seek to impart is that you will do well to think your drivetrain choices through carefully before pulling the trigger on your components.

Good luck, and I would appreciate you keeping us posted as you go along.


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

JeffJ,
thanks for a great writeup...I guess I have two options:

1. Stay with the 3x9 setup, buy some 3x9 Shimano STIs and call it good.

2. Change everything over to the SRAM group and go to 2x10 at that time.

In either case Id need to invest into a set of brakes and the TRP HY/RD system makes the most sense (in black).

Will be updating the board as I move along!


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> JeffJ,
> thanks for a great writeup...I guess I have two options:
> 
> 1. Stay with the 3x9 setup, buy some 3x9 Shimano STIs and call it good.
> ...


On an AWOL, there is something about the 3x9 STI's that could be an issue for you. On the 9 speed STI units, the shifter cable/housing still exits the brifter perpendicular to it, and this could interfere with mounting a handlebar bag in that area. I believe the newest Tiagra 4700 (10 speed), and up is where they now route both cable/housings out the back of the brifter and along the curve of the handlebar. Makes for a much cleaner installation, and leaves the area clear for whatever you may need to carry there. The 3x9 certainly gives you a wide range of gearing up front, a road triple front derailleur will align with a Sora 3x9 (30-39-50) crankset, and you could run a 12-36 cassette with a Shimano 9 speed mountain derailleur and be OK for hauling a loaded bike up the hills. I see you're not in especially mountainous territory, so maybe you're not especially concerned with low gearing. Your call.

With the 2x10, the SRAM brifters are not much different in price than Shimano. IMHO, they both work fine, just whether you prefer the SRAM Double Tap or the Shimano shift action.

I got the black HY/RD calipers. They come with silver reservoir covers. The silver calipers come with black reservoir covers. I wish the black calipers came with black covers :~) I put a 180 rotor on the front of my AWOL. Specialized told me that was the limit for the front, and 160 for the rear. They do sell the TRP HY/RD brakes with whatever size rotor you want.


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Went to a local Specialized "dealer" to talk about my setup...a big shiny store; I though one of the techs would be willing to shed some light in fusing a mountain AND road groupset together to help me build this bike up. No dice there.

I do not like the Shimano 9 speed side 'PORTED" cabling...way too much clutter. 

So I guess, I need to move to the 10 speed world, and probably 2x10 (not sure if there is 3x10).
Having that said, I have an XO 10 speed rear derailleur. So, I need a 10 speed cassette, new front 2x derailleur, and a new 2x chainrings.

Brakes wise, leaning towards the TRP mechanicals...I guess dual pistons and simplicity to adjustment down the road are getting my attention as of now...

The joys of building up a bike are as rewarding as the bike rides!


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi if you're going 10 speed it must be all 10 speed road or all 10 speed mtb!
Do Not Mix Shimano 10 Speed!
You can go 10 speed road and use a 9 speed mtb rear derailleur with it.
I would stick to your 9 speed setup as it shifts better than 10 or 11 speed Shimano because of the way it comes out of your shifters. 
Mixing Sram mountain and road groupsets works 100%.
I just do not like it. 
I loved my Awol only sold it because I was after more room for bigger tyres!
Yes I like 2.3" 29er Tyres. 


Kiwi Pete from the Singletrack


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

With derailleur optimization, you can actually combine Shimano 10 and 11 speed Road and Mountain components.

The Wolftooth Tanpan (Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com) allows for the use of mountain derailleurs and extended range cassettes in the rear, so you can run a compact double up front and have and an 11-42 cassette out the back. The tanpan changes the amount of cable pulled by your road lever to match the amount required by an MTB derailleur. Wolftooth recommends the use of a goatlink to offset your derailleur when using larger cassettes like that.

The Wolftooth roadlink (RoadLink ? wolftoothcomponents.com) allows you to use a compact double with a standard medium cage road rear derailleur with an 11-40 mountain cassette.

Sunrace have very affordable 11-40 and 11-42 extended range cassettes available now, and some places are taking pre-orders for the new Shimano XT 11-46 cassette, although the latter is for 1x11 set ups.

Personally, I would wait for the Shimano or Sunrace 11-46 cassettes which will be available this summer and use them in a 1x11 set up with a 38 t narrow wide chainring from Raceface or Wolftooth. As compared to a 30-39-50 x 12-36 9-speed set up, you only lose 2 gears off the top.

With the new 1x11 products hitting the shelves at such affordable prices (the XT 11-46 is 100 usd on Chain Reaction Cycles for instance, while the 11-42 cassettes are around 80 usd), 1x10 and 1x11 have become really affordable for gravel/adventure set ups.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi if you're going 10 speed it must be all 10 speed road or all 10 speed mtb!
> Do Not Mix Shimano 10 Speed!
> You can go 10 speed road and use a 9 speed mtb rear derailleur with it.
> I would stick to your 9 speed setup as it shifts better than 10 or 11 speed Shimano because of the way it comes out of your shifters.
> ...


I'd keep the front triple, get an M772 RD and a 11/36 rear cassette, You'll get more range for around $150 worth of parts, cable and housing.


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Can I use ultegra shifters with this setup for the triple chainring?


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

edthesped said:


> I'd keep the front triple, get an M772 RD and a 11/36 rear cassette, You'll get more range for around $150 worth of parts, cable and housing.


This is what I did. It got me from Puget Sound to Glacier NP fully loaded this spring and early summer. Very low gear inches when I needed it over the mountainous passes and high enough for flats.

Much less expensive than swapping out the entire drivetrain.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

euromade said:


> Can I use ultegra shifters with this setup for the triple chainring?


Yes, if you are using Ultegra 6500 3 x 9.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

euromade said:


> Can I use ultegra shifters with this setup for the triple chainring?


A triple Ultegra should work just fine. For the last, almost, two years I've been running a 105 10 speed setup as follows, 105 brifters, 105 triple front, 105 front derailleur, M772 rear derailleur and a 10sp 11/36 rear cassette. Everything functions and shifts flawlessly. I can only assume the same configuration on a 9sp drivetrain would perform equally well. The only thing I would change is to have a 12/36 rear cassette as I'd like to tighten up the transitions between gears a bit but it's a really minor niggle.

edit: FWIW, I also run a Sugino ox601d 46/30 double with an 11/36 rear cassette on my Vaya and prefer the triple setup of the AWOL by a wide margin. If I were purchasing a complete drivetrain I would build the 105 setup as listed above again. I just don't get the whole compact double trend.


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## ryoanji (May 3, 2015)

jeffj said:


> On an AWOL, there is something about the 3x9 STI's that could be an issue for you. On the 9 speed STI units, the shifter cable/housing still exits the brifter perpendicular to it, and this could interfere with mounting a handlebar bag in that area.


 I have seen people are using v-brakes L-shaped "noodles" to change the angle of the shifter cable on exit to make it compatible with bar bags. I think it will work best with something like revelate harness that is left on the bike, rather then bag that is taken on off, frequently adjusted.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

edthesped said:


> edit: FWIW, I also run a Sugino ox601d 46/30 double with an 11/36 rear cassette on my Vaya and prefer the triple setup of the AWOL by a wide margin. If I were purchasing a complete drivetrain I would build the 105 setup as listed above again. I just don't get the whole compact double trend.


Interesting. I have exactly that setup on my AWOL and I like it every bit as much as I did the 50/39/30 triple (105 crank, Ultegra 6603 shifters) on my Black Mountain Monster Cross bike. No more, but just as much.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

NZPeterG said:


> Hi if you're going 10 speed it must be all 10 speed road or all 10 speed mtb!
> Do Not Mix Shimano 10 Speed!
> You can go 10 speed road and use a 9 speed mtb rear derailleur with it.
> I would stick to your 9 speed setup as it shifts better than 10 or 11 speed Shimano because of the way it comes out of your shifters.
> ...


You can mix Shimano 10 speed (mtb and road) with this Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com 
Was pointed to me recently on reddit, 105 10S shifters with XT rear mech Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/cyclocross/comments/4qnjpz


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> With derailleur optimization, you can actually combine Shimano 10 and 11 speed Road and Mountain components.
> 
> The Wolftooth Tanpan (Tanpan ? wolftoothcomponents.com) allows for the use of mountain derailleurs and extended range cassettes in the rear, so you can run a compact double up front and have and an 11-42 cassette out the back. The tanpan changes the amount of cable pulled by your road lever to match the amount required by an MTB derailleur. Wolftooth recommends the use of a goatlink to offset your derailleur when using larger cassettes like that.
> 
> ...


Just posted about Tanpan as well. 
And +1 for new 11s from Shimano - just got 28 by 11x42 setup for my Moonlander, mostly XT 8000 with XTR shifter, smooth as butter, great group and fits existing 8-10s hubs


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

edthesped said:


> I just don't get the whole compact double trend.


I didn't either, when it was 11-28 cassettes, and maybe an 11-32. Now, though, with the advent of affordable--in comparison to first gen SRAM--extended range cassettes, they make perfect sense to me. All the range of a triple in a simpler package. 1x is making even more sense to me these days, especially with affordable options from Shimano that do not need a proprietary free hub.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> Can I use ultegra shifters with this setup for the triple chainring?


I have Ultegra 3x9 shifters on my road bike, and use an Alivio 9 speed rear derailleur with an 11-36 cassette (Sora 9 speed triple FD, and Sora 30-39-50 crankset). Works great. No reason it wouldn't work on the AWOL.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

PDKL45 said:


> I didn't either, when it was 11-28 cassettes, and maybe an 11-32. Now, though, with the advent of affordable--in comparison to first gen SRAM--extended range cassettes, they make perfect sense to me. All the range of a triple in a simpler package. 1x is making even more sense to me these days, especially with affordable options from Shimano that do not need a proprietary free hub.


Doubles aren't bad but I live in a very hilly area and with the double have to drop from the big ring and upshift two to three gears on the rear or I find myself spinning like a madman on ice. I'm to the point now that when I'm on the double I downshift then coast for a bit before starting to pedal again. I don't lose nearly as much momentum with a triple.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

triples are hard to beat on a tourer! i have a 12-28 10 speed cassette on a 105 triple with a modified 26 granny and for me its the best of all worlds: tight enough cassette that the 2nd ring can do 90% of the work, but always able to bail out or step up to the high or low front rings when things get steep either way...its still bizarre to me that its impossible to simply buy this type of gearing. and you have to research and build it yourself, when i would imagine the biggest ask on a adventure bike is decent gearing.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

rajcoont said:


> triples are hard to beat on a tourer! i have a 12-28 10 speed cassette on a 105 triple with a modified 26 granny and for me its the best of all worlds: tight enough cassette that the 2nd ring can do 90% of the work, but always able to bail out or step up to the high or low front rings when things get steep either way...its still bizarre to me that its impossible to simply buy this type of gearing. and you have to research and build it yourself, when i would imagine the biggest ask on a adventure bike is decent gearing.....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Until the last year or so, a large enough market for this type of gearing wasn't there for the two big S drive train companies. Some would argue that the market is still not large enough. Some still will argue that it will never be there. If SRAM could have it, the FD would disappear altogether.

I'm with you on tripples. I wish I could get a top tier shimano touring triple drive train without resorting to Frankenstein-ing road and MTB components that require a lot of adjustment.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Any ideas/recommendations on the brake/shifter cables. Is Jagwire any good? I see some new products on their site that claim to minimize shift/brake cable resistance...
*More importantly do I buy the Road or MTB kit?*
Thanks...


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Since the frame is made so the housing is run the full length of the frame, I just run Jagwire (or Shimano is fine too) housing from the bulk reels they have at the shop I work at. If you're using a kit, and brifters, you would buy the road kit because of the difference in the brake cables compared to MTB brake cables. 

Don't forget to put inline adjusters in the shifter housing because (especially if you run SRAM because the SRAM RD doesn't have an adjuster).


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Went for a 45 miler today (30% gravel) and the bike functioned great! Appreciate everyones' help with my build.

Just a few observations:
- Brooks C17 Cambium Carved worked great!!! Highly recommended
- Brooks Cambium Tape looks great.
- TRP HY/RD work OK, but nowhere near as my MTB Deore XTs! (Did the simple mod for shortening the cable pull - on the rear for now)
- Ultegra triple shifters, 3x9 Shimano setup works great for now. (ST-6510 brifters are getting hard to find! And the price is going up on ebay.)
- Jagwire Road XL kit did the trick. The rear brake cable didn't need to be cut.

*TO DO:*

Have to purchase a set of wider tires for mixed road/gravel conditions 47-50mm. My wheels are tubeless ready 24mm wide. Feel free to chime in. So far, looking at the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour in 47mm or Marathon Mondial HS 428 in (47 or 50mm)


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> Went for a 45 miler today (30% gravel) and the bike functioned great! Appreciate everyones' help with my build.
> 
> Just a few observations:
> - Brooks C17 Cambium Carved worked great!!! Highly recommended
> ...


I could be mistaken, but it looks like a Race face Deus XC (MTB) crankset mated with the brifters, so I am curious which FD you ended up with to get it all playing nice in the sandbox?


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Deore XT...


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

So Ultegra triple shifters with a Deore XT front derailleur? Do you have a Jtek Shiftmate or something? Will have to look closer at your pic.


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

The ST-6510 ones are 2x9 or 3x9 compatible. I got a set of ebay and they work great


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> Deore XT...


No 'travel adjuster'?

The road FD and MTB FD have different pull ratios, so using a MTB FD with brifters is supposed to either require something like this, or be a no-go. . . . . supposedly. . . . .









Shiftmate Compatibility | Jtek Engineering


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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Works in my case. I followed a few youtube videos on adjusting the FD and I had no problems today on my test ride. I did install an inline barrel adjuster per your suggestion and that helped me set it up.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

euromade said:


> *Works in my case.* I followed a few youtube videos on adjusting the FD and I had no problems today on my test ride. I did install an inline barrel adjuster per your suggestion and that helped me set it up.


And that is really all that matters :thumbsup:


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Anyone seen any pics of the 2017 AWOLs popping up anywhere online? The 2017 Comp is up on a couple of UK store websites for pre-order, looking much the same as it's predecessor.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Last weeks Dealer Event adventure bikes and the Awol Expert 
I loved the new colour 

But I back ordered a new Sequoia for myself :eekster:

Adventures await for Spring :thumbsup:


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## lavenderclay (Jul 30, 2016)

*AWOL Junkie*

Truly inspiring! First post here on mtbr and I am pumped. I'll have to come back and read the thread in its entirety but man, what a versatile bike!

I've had my AWOL Comp since last summer (bought it used from a guy on craigslist 4 hrs away).

So far upgrade list includes:

Spurcycle Bell, replaced brake pads and chain, Spesh Power Expert Saddle, CG-R saddle post, Candy 3 pedals, All-Condition (amardillo elite) 700x32c, pair of Ribcage 2's cages and just picked up a couple of Insulated Water bottles on sale.

The 32's are great for commuting and the stock Trigger 42's could handle some pretty gnarly off-road (although they were kind of a decent at everything, not particularly good at anything tire..). Climbs like a donkey, handles like a show horse and gallops like a stallion. Absolutely in love.

I'm really digging the flat black look of it and sticking with that throughout. Excited to pick up some bags when they roll out their new line in August (?) (Specialized launches bikepacking gear line - BikeRadar USA) as well as a pizza rack (September...??). Sequoia looks slick but I'm happy with my AWOL. :thumbsup:

Looking forward to reading more and staying involved.

Mongol, would you be interested in selling me your AWOL fenders for $100? (Sorry if this is inappropriate/not the place. I couldn't find any kind of message function...)


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

euromade said:


> *TO DO:*
> 
> Have to purchase a set of wider tires for mixed road/gravel conditions 47-50mm. My wheels are tubeless ready 24mm wide. Feel free to chime in. So far, looking at the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour in 47mm or Marathon Mondial HS 428 in (47 or 50mm)
> View attachment 1084541


just off the back of a 3 day bikepack on gnarly gravel roads and cant say enough good things about my continental travel contact 29x2's! killer tires for everything the off roads might throw at you. best all round tires ive seen for the awol...what a bike! love it more every time I ride it

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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

The 2017 AWOLs are up on the website and the pick of the bunch--at least for me--is the base model. If I was in the market for an AWOL, I would buy the base model and spend the money I saved on my own personalized accessories, like fenders and racks.

I can't help thinking that the AWOL took a bit of a back seat to the Sequoia in this year's product development cycle, but there are some small changes to specifications--*Edit: an 11-36t cassette on the Expert and a 12-36t cassette on the base model--that show that someone was paying at least some attention to the AWOL.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

PDKL45 said:


> The 2017 AWOLs are up on the website and the pick of the bunch--at least for me--is the base model. If I was in the market for an AWOL, I would buy the base model and spend the money I saved on my own personalized accessories, like fenders and racks.
> 
> I can't help thinking that the AWOL took a bit of a back seat to the Sequoia in this year's product development cycle, but there are some small changes to specifications--11-36t cassettes on two models--that show that someone was paying at least some attention to the AWOL.


The Comp at $1,200 USD is pretty sweet. They addressed the gearing with a pretty solid choice of kit going with a triple at both ends of the model range, and an 11-36 cassette. That'll work for quite a few riders in a wide variety of conditions.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

The Comp is $2100 with an 11-42 cassette. 

I think you meant the base model though. The base model is $1200 now with a 12-36 cassette. (Not 11-36).

I see that they have center lock disc on the Expert model instead of the six bolt design. The hubs are Shimano. They might be cx75 hubs. Not bad hubs and I like the center lock design. I have them on another bike. 

The frameset price jumped to $1000, but I see the handlebars are included this year. 

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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I agree the Comp is pretty sweet, but the price really reflects the higher price of the SRAM drivetrain components, IMO. I think a comp with a 38t chainring and an 11-46t cassette would be ideal, as it is only two high gears away from having the same range as the base model with the new cassette.

I actually have a 12-36 9-speed cassette (still) waiting to be put onto my AWOL for the same gearing range as the new base model, it's a decent solution. The 2016 Elite had a really high gear for climbing (34-34) and that seems to have been addressed in the new models.

I was slightly surprised to see the pizza rack missing from the base model, especially with the new Burra Burra Pizza rack-specific bag coming out this year, but they were probably trying to hit the $1200 price point which seems to me to be pretty good value. It looked like there was a typo on the website copy where they mentioned a hub dynamo on the base model, but I suspect that someone just copied the text of the Expert copy and left it in by mistake.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

I put a 12-36 cassette and a Deore XT RD on my 2016 base model. It really is a good solution. I also swapped out the 50-39-30 crank with a 44-32-22 Deore crank. Pretty low gear inches at the low end. Really good solution for touring with a full load, but I wish the bike had good touring gearing off the rack. 

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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Great_Egret said:


> I put a 12-36 cassette and a Deore XT RD on my 2016 base model. It really is a good solution. I also swapped out the 50-39-30 crank with a 44-32-22 Deore crank. Pretty low gear inches at the low end. Really good solution for touring with a full load, but I wish the bike had good touring gearing off the rack.


So do I.

What are you using to shift the MTB triple crankset?


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

PDKL45 said:


> So do I.
> 
> What are you using to shift the MTB triple crankset?


I'm using the Sora 3x9 brifters that came with the bike. I left the Sora FD on it too. It was said earlier in this very long thread (about page 9 or 10) that you can't use a shimano road FD with a Shimano triple MTB crankset. That's not true. I've had no trouble making them work. It takes a little bit more adjustment to get the height set up, but no more than putting a new FD on and it shifts well once dialed in.

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## euromade (Nov 12, 2015)

Not sure if this Youtube video was posted here...check it out! (It is actually a 4 episode footage)


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

euromade said:


> Not sure if this Youtube video was posted here...check it out! (It is actually a 4 episode footage)


Yes 
Good Awol adventure doing the 1st Transcontinental race. 
Also on Vimeo 
Erik and friends just rode down Sweden on the new Sequoia a week or so ago. 
Do not know if a film is coming out about that adventure

Kiwi Pete out Bikepacking somewhere ☺


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

There were lots of pics on the Radavist and a German film team (Ertzui Film) also captured the ride.

The 2016 Length of Sweden Sverigetempot: Part 01 | The Radavist

https://www.instagram.com/ertzuifilm/


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

euromade said:


> Not sure if this Youtube video was posted here...check it out! (It is actually a 4 episode footage)


My favorite part of that documentary is where they are discussing Stelvio (Sp?) Pass (maybe in episode 3?) and Erik says something about a light carbon fibre bike. It's late in the race, they've both faced inner demons and Recep just says "Ah, f*#k it man." You know exactly what he means.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

I just came back from my first long touring trip (1500km) with my Awol 2015. I made a few changes since I have it:

Shorter stem (80 mm).
Chainset Deore 26-36-48 (the stock one was way too big)
Shimano XT rear derailleur

I started from Belgium and finished in Switzerland (across the whole country). 
Really happy so far with the bike beside the rear wheel which kind of broke on the last day on a bumpy road. :skep: 
The next modification will probably be a good pair of wheel.

I went mostly on normal road but sometimes it was on gravel and the Marathon Mondial also did the job.


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## edthesped (Jun 20, 2010)

Papanowel said:


> I just came back from my first long touring trip (1500km) with my Awol 2015. I made a few changes since I have it:
> 
> Shorter stem (80 mm).
> Chainset Deore 26-36-48 (the stock one was way too big)
> ...


You look so happy in that picture! Seriously though, any problems with rear triangle flex? My daughter took mine and says it's plenty stiff for her but I've read complaints of flex when it's loaded.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

edthesped said:


> You look so happy in that picture! Seriously though, any problems with rear triangle flex? My daughter took mine and says it's plenty stiff for her but I've read complaints of flex when it's loaded.


No problem on my end with the triangle.I only feel it when I ride out of the saddle which is not really the case when you are that loaded.

But the rear wheel is kind of broken, there is a loose in the rear hub now and the rims are completely untight after I rode on a bump on the last day.

Hope my explanation in English are understandable


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Papanowel said:


> The next modification will probably be a good pair of wheel.


Look out for DT Swiss 545d 700c Rims. They're designed for ebikes and trekking bikes and they are relatively cheap. I have a pair mounted on Shimano XT hubs ready to go on my AWOL.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> Look out for DT Swiss 545d 700c Rims. They're designed for ebikes and trekking bikes and they are relatively cheap. I have a pair mounted on Shimano XT hubs ready to go on my AWOL.


Thanks for the heads up, I was lurking for a pair of Ryde Sputnik but I will also check those then 

BTW does my Marathon mondial (700x40c / 42-662)fit into the Ryde Sputnik rim?

_The rim has an exterior measurement of approximately 24mm.

_


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

It will be fine, according to Schwalbe.

Tire Dimensions - Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> It will be fine, according to Schwalbe.
> 
> Tire Dimensions - Schwalbe Professional Bike Tires


Thanks again.


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## Dr_MurdocChongo (Jul 9, 2009)

Recent 50 miler in Amish country Ohio. Setup with Alfine 8 (recently swapped to 1x10). Brother's bike is a vaya. Both fine machines for this touring this area.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

Having decided I want an AWOL, I discover that all the 2016 frame sets are sold out in the UK and that Specialised UK have decided not to bring in any of the 2017 framesets. Looks like a day trip to France to buy one.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

martin_uk said:


> Having decided I want an AWOL, I discover that all the 2016 frame sets are sold out in the UK and that Specialised UK have decided not to bring in any of the 2017 framesets. Looks like a day trip to France to buy one.


had the same experience with specialized canada. had to cross the border to buy the frame, was a great adventure and bonded me and sweet ol blacky Awol from day one. love this bike

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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Your brother really didn't mess around with the saddle on his Vaya, did he? I think the seat on my office chair is smaller than that bad boy.


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## Dr_MurdocChongo (Jul 9, 2009)

Haha yeah I make fun of him for that but he says its the only saddle that doesn't give him back pain. I'll stick with my brooks flyer.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I actually have a chunky big WTB Comfort Comp on my AWOL; I get where he's coming from.


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## Max LOLume (Jul 10, 2013)

I love seeing the different builds everybody has been fielding on the AWOL! This is by far one of the most versatile and fun frames I've ever owned. I have a few wheelsets that get used to quickly change the bike from gravel touring, to light single track duty, or some skinnier commuter tires.

Here's a setup from early this spring:


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

rajcoont said:


> had the same experience with specialized canada. had to cross the border to buy the frame, was a great adventure and bonded me and sweet ol blacky Awol from day one. love this bike
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Really lucky, just grabbed an unused XL expert frame of ebay. Pics to follow


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## AlexDireito (Aug 9, 2007)

*Specialized AWOL First Impressions*

Hi Everyone!!

Got my AWOL some 3 Weeks ago. XL size Expert Version, with racks lights fenders etc.

Put her through a couple of evaluation rides to see pros and cons, for there are no perfect bikes...

First Ride was a 70 km tour around Serra da Estrela, Portugal with a tarmac climb to 2000m, a 22 km hairpin filled steep descend and a 12 km hard core MTB track.

Well, it is hard to climb to 2000m with a 16 kg bike... However is a fact that there are no "light" touring bikes. They have to be reliable and sturdy so, so much for weight...

Negatives: A Road 48x34 crankset is too much for a touring 16 kg bike with you are going to top off with some 15 kgs load...
160mm front rotor is just not enough. Mine after the 22 km descend smelled like burned clutch and had a lovely blue colour. Now it is glass... :-D

So, First tuning was a XT 40/28 180m arms crankset and a front 180mm Brake rotor.

You cant ride hard MTB on a Road (even a flared one) handlebar. If you hold on to the brakes, your fingers get caught underneath the levers, If you dont hold the brake levers you dont have control. Anyway a touring bike is not for hardcore mtb, although she handled hersel pretty well...
No Spokes issues, and believe me the MTB bit was really unforgiving... Dont think that is going to be an issue.

Second ride was a rolling 120 kms on tarmac. The geometry is outstanding, amazingly comfy and easygoing.
Gave a 6,5kg Cannondale Supersix EVO Red a run for its money...

Removed all the wheels reflectors ad the rear plastic thing behind the cassette to remove parasite noise.
Rear fender flaps came loose and had to tighten them. I think i will also remove them. Not the full fenders, only the rubber flaps on the tip.

The lighs are really weak, was expeting much better, havent tried the charger yet.

Happy factor, some 80%

Have to give the Battleship a "healthy diet"... To sse if i can take some weight without compromising the reliability.

Another absolute necessity on a bike like this is a kickstand. It is just not practical to pick up a 40kg unstable weight everytime you stop. Got the Hebie Elex 632.

Have to go on a 1000 Kms with the full load to see what else "hurts"


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## taowave (Sep 13, 2016)

How does the AWOL compare to the Salsa Fargo or Kona Sutra?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

AlexDireito said:


> Hi Everyone!!
> 
> Got my AWOL some 3 Weeks ago. XL size Expert Version, with racks lights fenders etc.
> ...
> ...


Looks awesome, and I agree about the kickstand and the rear rubber flap. I have just removed my rear mud flap, although I kept the front one to guard the drive train against water and road grit.

I have a Pletscher double kickstand on my AWOL that can be seen in this photo, in the bike's old configuration.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

The red color of the frame is really nice.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

yeah red looks siiick, send photos as the sun morphs the frame colour! 

also: interruptor brakes on drop handles help with mtb trails...when i ride a bike without interruptors I miss them immediately, they are clunky but essential for a do it all bike like awol for me


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## CyclocroSF (Nov 2, 2015)

*Awol poler*

Heres mine! IMO, the Busyman olive bar tape makes it. Since these photos were taken: WTB nano's 2.1 tubeless, matching olive Tracko Ramblin' Roll, Thomson elite seatpost and Thomson stem.

Future plans: Rival hydraulic full groupset with the new White Industries cranks 

Love this thing. Best all 'rounder I've ever had.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

CyclocroSF said:


> Heres mine! IMO, the Busyman olive bar tape makes it. Since these photos were taken: WTB nano's 2.1 tubeless, matching olive Tracko Ramblin' Roll, Thomson elite seatpost and Thomson stem.
> 
> Future plans: Rival hydraulic full groupset with the new White Industries cranks
> 
> Love this thing. Best all 'rounder I've ever had.


Lovely :thumbsup:


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

getting spoiled with hydros on my FS. bb7's seem really weak when barreling down these days. looking for any info from people on retrofitting 180mm rotors to the awol? or should i just upgrade to trp hy/rd brakes? any suggestions welcome.... 


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Brakes are overrated. All they do is slow you down.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

AWOL converted to a flat Jones style loop bar for upright position. My back demanded it.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I toyed with the idea of the Jones loop bars. They look good.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

The tall head tube, long top tube works well with the Jones bars. I've been running my old H bars on my AWOL since I got it. I must get round to trying it with some carbon loops.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

martin_uk said:


> The tall head tube, long top tube works well with the Jones bars. I've been running my old H bars on my AWOL since I got it. I must get round to trying it with some carbon loops.


Not sure if you'd know. Do the cables get in the way with a front rack?


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## SALUKILEFTY (Jul 18, 2016)

Changed out my tires today to some new Fast Track 2.0". Had the Fatty Sport slicks on before.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

I need to replace my headset on my AWOL. What have others used for replacements or builds with the frameset?

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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm still running stock but you can never go wrong with the cane Creek 40 series


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

With my front rack I notmally just take care when attaching panniers and route the cables around them.


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

I've had my AWOL for one year as of today. We've hauled 50 lbs of CSA share food, ridden in three days of rain with 45 lbs of gear over the mountain passes of the North Cascades, and reliably relived my stress commuting to and from work. I've put just over 4,000 miles on her in that year. She looks different today than a year ago. A few dings, some scratches, and an entirely new group and wheel set. Here's hoping for another year and many more miles.

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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I am considering to buy an awol frameset. I am 183cm with 82cm inner leg length (6ft/32") and will probably go with the size M.

Questions I still have are:
-how are those dropouts holding up? Do they slip or need any regular adjustment? I want a setup for an IGH.
-can I take any rack/fender or do I need the special AWOL ones?
-How wide tires do fit in there when I install fenders? I want to install 50-55mm + fenders. According to what I have read so far, should be possible? 

We have a specialized concept store in town but due to construction work with the traffic jams that go along with it, it is over an hour driving and not compatible with my working hours. I would probably buy it there and have them build everything up with the parts I have from my current bike. And does anybody have some pictures from the current frameset in red-brown? Would like to see how it looks in real life.


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## garysol1 (Nov 15, 2012)

cyclingdutchman said:


> I am considering to buy an awol frameset. I am 183cm with 82cm inner leg length (6ft/32") and will probably go with the size M.
> .


I would HIGHLY recommend you ride one first. I am 5'8" and the M fits me like a glove....


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I definetely will if I can. By now I read lot from people that are my size or a tad smaller that ride an L. We'll see. Thanks for your remark!


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

So I asked about the.dropouts because I couldnt find anything about them. In a german forum I.read that the scale if off limit. If you adjust them both according the scale the wheel seemed to be not straight.

I also.found a german ad.with a.used.awol and the guy.apparently put 28x2,25 (57mm) schwalbe racing ralphs in there without fenders. So I hope that 2"/50+.fenders.would fit although Spec state only 1.8"/45mm on their website. Or is tire clearance reduced on the latest model? At least on the german version of the site only the frameset is listed, no complete bikes anymore.


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

cyclingdutchman said:


> So I asked about the.dropouts because I couldnt find anything about them. In a german forum I.read that the scale if off limit. If you adjust them both according the scale the wheel seemed to be not straight.
> 
> I also.found a german ad.with a.used.awol and the guy.apparently put 28x2,25 (57mm) schwalbe racing ralphs in there without fenders. So I hope that 2"/50+.fenders.would fit although Spec state only 1.8"/45mm on their website. Or is tire clearance reduced on the latest model? At least on the german version of the site only the frameset is listed, no complete bikes anymore.


I've got a 2014 Expert frame with the rocker dropouts, and while the dropouts aren't extremely user friendly, they do hold securely once tightened down. Indeed, they don't seem to line up exactly when adjusted according to the printed scales, so I adjust them so that the wheel is straight in the frame, and don't pay much attention to the printed scale.

With respect to tire clearance, I don't think there's any way you'll fit 2.0 tires with fenders, as the clearance above the front and rear tires (front especially) isn't very great. You should be ok with 45mm tires and fenders, but I wouldn't expect to go beyond that without tire rubbing or debris catching between tire and fender.

FWIW, the Soma Wolverine fork has excellent crown clearance, so it would allow fenders plus 2.1 tires.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Hm my current bike has close to 45mm clearance as well so that is one argument less for the AWOL I guess.....

The wolverine frame is similar to the AWOL and I dont want to mix frame and fork when they are in different colors. Thanks a lot for your input!


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## albeant (Feb 24, 2004)

I should add that the Wolverine's rear tire clearance isn't any better than the AWOL's, so it seems that to run fenders and full size 29" tires, one would have to look at something like a Fargo or Cutthroat.

One other thing about the AWOL and racks: If you're planning to run a rear rack heavily loaded, I'd look at another frame. My AWOL's comfort turns into flex/wiggle with heavy rear panniers, but with front lowrider panniers and/or a bikepacking setup, the handling is excellent.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I am 176cm with an inseam of 80cm and fit an M. I think an L frame would be better for you.


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## misternicholas (Jul 28, 2016)

Found a great deal on an AWOL complete. Swapped my tires, drive train, saddle/post, and cockpit over from my travelers check. This bike is a game changer. I love my Surly but the frame was too large & the wrong geo for me. This bike inspires confidence & all day comfort I've never had in a bike before.

Does anyone have a suggestion for black fenders that will fit 44mm tires? I'm looking at the velo orange Zeps but they say max 42...


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

cyclingdutchman said:


> So I asked about the.dropouts because I couldnt find anything about them. In a german forum I.read that the scale if off limit. If you adjust them both according the scale the wheel seemed to be not straight.
> 
> I also.found a german ad.with a.used.awol and the guy.apparently put 28x2,25 (57mm) schwalbe racing ralphs in there without fenders. So I hope that 2"/50+.fenders.would fit although Spec state only 1.8"/45mm on their website. Or is tire clearance reduced on the latest model? At least on the german version of the site only the frameset is listed, no complete bikes anymore.


I have Racing Ralphs rolling tubeless on my AWOL now. The front fits great, but to get the rear tire to fit I had to turn the cable housing holders 180° towards the outside on the drive side.

The Ralphs fit and spin freely now, but not without a modification.

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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

misternicholas said:


> Found a great deal on an AWOL complete. Swapped my tires, drive train, saddle/post, and cockpit over from my travelers check. This bike is a game changer. I love my Surly but the frame was too large & the wrong geo for me. This bike inspires confidence & all day comfort I've never had in a bike before.
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion for black fenders that will fit 44mm tires? I'm looking at the velo orange Zeps but they say max 42...
> 
> View attachment 1107108


Measure your actual tire width. For example - Surly Knards 700x41 mounts to around 38-39 on stock 2016 AWOL rims and these fenders cover them just fine (although zeps would be better because Knard is a knobby tire), VO Hammered 45mm Fenders 700c, Noir - 700c - Fenders, Accessories, Hardware - Accessories


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## Irkenn (Nov 30, 2016)

*Clearance with triple crankset?*



SALUKILEFTY said:


> Changed out my tires today to some new Fast Track 2.0". Had the Fatty Sport slicks on before.
> 
> View attachment 1105088
> View attachment 1105089


Hey! I've got that same AWOL model. I'm curious, can you still use your smaller chainring with that tire size on the rear? I bought some Michelin Grip'r 29"x2.1 but they didn't fit, I thought maybe it's because those might be bigger than what they claim it to be. I have some Renegades 29"x1.9 right now. But I'll like to squeeze in the biggest tire it can fit. How are those behaving?

Cheers and thanks!


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## SALUKILEFTY (Jul 18, 2016)

Irkenn said:


> Hey! I've got that same AWOL model. I'm curious, can you still use your smaller chainring with that tire size on the rear? I bought some Michelin Grip'r 29"x2.1 but they didn't fit, I thought maybe it's because those might be bigger than what they claim it to be. I have some Renegades 29"x1.9 right now. But I'll like to squeeze in the biggest tire it can fit. How are those behaving?
> 
> Cheers and thanks!


I wish I was technical enough to help you man. I know the bike mechanic had to adjust cables on my rear when I got these on, but not sure on chainring. 2.0 might be max without other adjustments. I think I read in this post others have done 2.2 as max but not sure if that required tweaks or not.

Only been able to ride it a few times cause terrible chest cough past 2 weeks, but I def like it the few rides I been in. No worries in gravel now compared to what I had before. I do enjoy the fatter tire, just looks sweet! Next summer tbd if I change to little less MTB tread but still keep same size. But don't think I'd go back to slicks on this bike cause it's made for adventure !!!

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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

I visited the concept store but they didnt have any awol builds anymore, since they are currently selling framesets only. They wanted to show me a frameset in L but that wouldnt help me much. They didnt offer to sit on a similar bike either, although they had several of their adventure bikes in several sizes in the store. Maybe I will have the chance once to testride one once.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

If you are in The Netherlands, maybe you could have a look at an Intec frame? (Home | INTEC Custom Frames & Bikes)

You can buy them through Bike24, the German site. I think they have free or cheap delivery to EU countries.

Bombtrack is another option for a German adventure bike, they are more in the US-style, rather than the German trekking style.


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## AlexDireito (Aug 9, 2007)

Well Fully assembled, my XL EVO weighs 38Lbs... And dont bother taking her appart, the fenders weigh 210/340grs and the pizza rack 800grs...

Get over it. It is a Fat Lady. 

Oh and i added a 400gr Hebie Kickstand and the Ortlieb Handlebar bag, not contemplated on the 38lbs yet... :-S

Switched the 48/34 Gossamer for a 28/40 180mm XT (had to change the front derrailer also.)


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## misternicholas (Jul 28, 2016)

*27.5 Awol*

This AWOL just popped up on my instagram feed. I think when it's time to take the fenders off, I will be converting to 650b.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

misternicholas said:


> This AWOL just popped up on my instagram feed. I think when it's time to take the fenders off, I will be converting to 650b.
> View attachment 1117141


The Golden Eagle AWOL. It's such a nice bike, one of the few brass AWOL frames that were ever produced with 27.5x2.2 tires on 30mm internal width rims.

I would love to put Schwalbe G-One Speed 25.5x2.35 tires on my AWOL. With the weight of the bike and such a nice big contact patch, it would descend really, really well. Plus the small gravel knobs would work perfectly with blacktop roads.


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

Hello people.
Just ordered a base 2106 Awol and I'm currently waiting for delivery at the LBS.

I have a quick question, does anyone knows the specific rear derailleur?

Quick search gives me either.
Alivio M4000 SGS
or
Alivio RD-M4000

Trying to get the spec sheet to see what is the smallest front ring I could run on it?
Either a 28T or preferably a 26T 
I'm in the process of reading the whole thread but I'm at page 11 right now, so sorry if it already came up.

Really informative and awesome thread.

thanks

-------------------------------------------------
Sorry but I was finally able to access the Shimano website trough my mobile and it seems the front difference is 22
So a 28T would be my best budget option for the time being.

There is one spec I don't quite understand.
It's the "Total capacity" 45T 
can anyone shed some light on this.

Thanks


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

God I suck at forums!


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Total capacity can be calculated as follows:

1. Subtract the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring = maximum chainring difference

2. Subtract the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog = maximum cassette cog difference

3. Add the maximum chainring difference and the maximum cassette cog difference. Make sure your rear derailleur has an equal or higher total capicitance.

For example, I have a 30-39-50 triple crankset with a 12-36 cassette. 

50 - 30 = 20
36 - 12 = 24
20 + 24 = 44

So my rear derailleur must have a total capacity of 44 or greater.


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

PDKL45 said:


> Total capacity can be calculated as follows:
> 
> 1. Subtract the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring = maximum chainring difference
> 
> ...


Thank you PDKL45 for the explanation, I realize there is a lot of math involved when swapping a drive train (wich I never did) and it seems the its one of the hot topic with the AWOL

My original plan is to swap the whole thing for a XT group set with dura ace bar end shifters to get a full on mule for touring, but since I'm losing my job for 6 months in April (8 weeks from now...so 8 paychecks!) I'm really on a budget!

Wish I had decided that the best use of my 6 months off was to go get lost with my bike 8 or 9 months ago instead of mid January!

But the biggest step is done, researching and deciding on the bike.

Got lucky and managed to swap of one the 2 last AWOL 2016 in my city!
Not only did I get it at 1300$ instead of 1700$ CND the 2016 comes with the pizza rack wich is sadly not the case on the 2017 model!

I'm already waiting for the dura ace bar end shifters but I think the rest will wait. I'll try a few tours with everything stock and see how it goes.

The only thing I might do is replace the 30T by a 28T (wich is the lowest I can go because of the 50T) but I have to figure out my gear ratio because it might be a bit moot in terms of difference in the end!

I could get the XT crankset (48/36/26) for about 120$ but then again I need everything else to go on tour...rear racks, bags, shelter, sleeping gear, cook wear, dishes etc...and the lighter you want it the more you need to fork!

So I'll save money where I can for now. 
Can't wait to go get lost in the woods and on scenic roads with this bike!


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

lavenderclay said:


> Truly inspiring! First post here on mtbr and I am pumped. I'll have to come back and read the thread in its entirety but man, what a versatile bike!
> 
> I've had my AWOL Comp since last summer (bought it used from a guy on craigslist 4 hrs away).
> 
> ...


Hey Lavenderclay, you most likely have your fenders sorted out by now but specialized just came out with it's own line of fenders big tires, the Drytech and apparently they are the shiznitz! Made out of aluminum and softer plastic and rubber.

One model to fit up to 45 mm tires...fat boys etc...
And another for up to 52 mm. All in flat black too.

Cost is 80$ CND so probably around the 50 to 60$ US mark!


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## jbandt (Apr 8, 2016)

Hey guys, need a little sizing input for the awol. I'm 6'3" about 290lb with roughly a 35" inseam. Do I go large or xlg? I like to be as upright as possible, and typically size down to shorten the reach on most bikes. Hopefully taking a road trip this weekend to test an xlg. Rode a medium and really like the way it felt sizing aside of course.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

jbandt said:


> Hey guys, need a little sizing input for the awol. I'm 6'3" about 290lb with roughly a 35" inseam. Do I go large or xlg? I like to be as upright as possible, and typically size down to shorten the reach on most bikes. Hopefully taking a road trip this weekend to test an xlg. Rode a medium and really like the way it felt sizing aside of course.
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


6' 4" and happy with the XL. Never felt that it was too big


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## jbandt (Apr 8, 2016)

martin_uk said:


> 6' 4" and happy with the XL. Never felt that it was too big


Took a little road trip yesterday to test the xlg. I liked it too.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I may be selling a 2016 XL AWOL Expert frame and fork soon. . . .


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## Once Bitten (Apr 4, 2012)

jeffj said:


> I may be selling a 2016 XL AWOL Expert frame and fork soon. . . .


What's something like that worth?


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## jbandt (Apr 8, 2016)

jeffj said:


> I may be selling a 2016 XL AWOL Expert frame and fork soon. . . .


I may be interested in something like that as well. I've never built a bike from the frame up before. Might actually be a little cheaper than buying a 2017 comp. If I spec it a little lower. Keep us posted.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

looking around for my wife, she's 5'3, and fits a 51" Ruby. 3 basic questions:

1) What frame size (S or XS?) 
2) How much does this thing weigh? Is it really a monster anchor?
3) What size tires will it fit? Would like to transfer her Industry-9/Crests over, and use her 1.95 Specialized Renegades for it


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## jbandt (Apr 8, 2016)

sgtrobo said:


> looking around for my wife, she's 5'3, and fits a 51" Ruby. 3 basic questions:
> 
> 1) What frame size (S or XS?)
> 2) How much does this thing weigh? Is it really a monster anchor?
> 3) What size tires will it fit? Would like to transfer her Industry-9/Crests over, and use her 1.95 Specialized Renegades for it


Can't comment on size. Weight will be noticeable over aluminum or carbon, but I don't know how much of an impact it will have for her. One thing I notice with steel is that at slower paces its fine. Its when you're going for speed, it'll do it, but you tire out a little faster because of the extra weight. As for tires 2.1 should fit and maybe a bit more.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

sgtrobo said:


> looking around for my wife, she's 5'3, and fits a 51" Ruby. 3 basic questions:
> 
> 1) What frame size (S or XS?)
> 2) How much does this thing weigh? Is it really a monster anchor?
> 3) What size tires will it fit? Would like to transfer her Industry-9/Crests over, and use her 1.95 Specialized Renegades for it


1) I would estimate that they run a tad big, so she is probably right on the bubble and could go either way.

2) The AWOL is not lightweight. My XL frame, fork and seatpost weighed well over 8 lbs. Add a rack and other goodies, and it all adds up.

3) I have those tires on my AWOL mounted on Roval xc-ish wheels. They fit fine, but I don't think you could go much wider .


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

So I've finally decided that I will swap the drivetrain on my base AWOL, I'm swapping the crankset to a Deore 48/36/26T, XT rear derailleur and Deore front.
9 speed Dura ace bar end shifters to top it off.

My question is what is the angle bracket I want to go for on the front mech?
(and I'm pretty sure I saw the answer already but I'm not sure how to do a search within the thread) 

Either 66-69°
Or 63-66°

I think it's the former but not 100% sure.
I'll try a search in the thread but if anyone knows it would be helpful.

Thanks


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

blacklung said:


> So I've finally decided that I will swap the drivetrain on my base AWOL, I'm swapping the crankset to a Deore 48/36/26T, XT rear derailleur and Deore front.
> 9 speed Dura ace bar end shifters to top it off.
> 
> My question is what is the angle bracket I want to go for on the front mech?
> ...


With your 3x, no suspension, and the low bottom bracket hight of the AWOL you honestly could go with either. In the world of MTB that tends to have high bottom bracket hight for clearance and a lot of suspension travel (thus making chain rub more of an issue), generally 66-69° is for 26" wheels and 63-66° for 29ers.

If you set the front mech appropriately for the 48t chainring, you should be fine.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## blacklung (Feb 2, 2017)

Thank you sir!


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## misternicholas (Jul 28, 2016)

Finally got my AWOL setup with 650b wheels. Got a quick spin around the city before heading out for a 2 week work trip.


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## jbandt (Apr 8, 2016)

Finally got my XL AWOL Comp last Friday after waiting 3 months. Only 2 rides so far, but I'm diggin it. Already swapped the ground controls for the sawtooth, and put my brooks saddle on. Its commute ready now.









Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## cellery (Jul 24, 2015)

misternicholas said:


> Finally got my AWOL setup with 650b wheels. Got a quick spin around the city before heading out for a 2 week work trip.
> View attachment 1137153


That is a beautiful build. What rims / wheelset did you go with? I've been tempted to convert my AWOL comp over to 650b myself for the added clearance.


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## misternicholas (Jul 28, 2016)

cellery said:


> That is a beautiful build. What rims / wheelset did you go with? I've been tempted to convert my AWOL comp over to 650b myself for the added clearance.


They are a random set of mismatched Alex & WTB wheels I bought on eBay for super cheap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

Can't find another thread with 650B chat so will post here.
I got the G-Ones, 27.5x2.4 and unlike Pacenti NeoMoto's they mount tru to size even before they stretch. So Neo's were clearing chainstays just enough (close 57mm measure at the nobs) but Schwalbe's are no go (on same blunt 35s rims). Front is fine, rear has no clearance. May be frame with adjusters can clear them but not standard one.
I am tempted to dimple chainstays, will sleep on it. Looks really good and wheels are noticeably lighter compared to stock (even in draft form with tubes)Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet 
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

mongol777 said:


> Can't find another thread with 650B chat so will post here.
> I got the G-Ones, 27.5x2.4 and unlike Pacenti NeoMoto's they mount tru to size even before they stretch. So Neo's were clearing chainstays just enough (close 57mm measure at the nobs) but Schwalbe's are no go (on same blunt 35s rims). Front is fine, rear has no clearance. May be frame with adjusters can clear them but not standard one.
> I am tempted to dimple chainstays, will sleep on it. Looks really good and wheels are noticeably lighter compared to stock (even in draft form with tubes)Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


The fatter tires look fantastic. Could you maybe use a thinner rear rim to get a few mm of clearance back there Mongol? From looking at various charts, rim with can have a dramatic effect on tire width. Maybe a WTB 23mm rim?


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> The fatter tires look fantastic. Could you maybe use a thinner rear rim to get a few mm of clearance back there Mongol? From looking at various charts, rim with can have a dramatic effect on tire width. Maybe a WTB 23mm rim?


I thought about it but I do like wide rims with wide tires. I thought of 3 options for now:
#1 - put these wheels on my 1x1, leave AWOL alone (most likely)
#2 - Buy current Kona Unit, build it with drops, sell AWOL or leave it as rain day bike
#3 - All City teased some time ago that they are going to release new bike sometime during summer. No idea what it is but could be something around adventure and 650B
#4 - dimple chainstays on AWOL


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

I know where you are coming from with the fat tires. There is a 27.5x2.8 Schwalbe G One that I would love to have on a bike like the Rawland Ulv. The only problem is that I don't have hundreds of kms of undulating midwest US or winding New Zealand gravel roads to ride it on in Korea.

I like the Unit as well, it would be perfect for the urban 29er I want to build, and you could use a really short stem on it with dirt drops.

Have you thought of saving the Schwalbes and putting WTB Horizons on those rims for the AWOL? The blunts would pull them out and they would keep a rounded profile.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

PDKL45 said:


> I know where you are coming from with the fat tires. There is a 27.5x2.8 Schwalbe G One that I would love to have on a bike like the Rawland Ulv. The only problem is that I don't have hundreds of kms of undulating midwest US or winding New Zealand gravel roads to ride it on in Korea.
> 
> I like the Unit as well, it would be perfect for the urban 29er I want to build, and you could use a really short stem on it with dirt drops.
> 
> Have you thought of saving the Schwalbes and putting WTB Horizons on those rims for the AWOL? The blunts would pull them out and they would keep a rounded profile.


Strangely but I am not excited with WTB products. I don't hate them but there was always something not working for me (had their saddles, rims and tires). Nothing wrong with them, seems to be great company and well made products. 
I am still thinking and have couple more ideas. For now this wheelset and tires are on my old trusty 1x1 (btw, mounted tubeless they measured up to 62mm). I think I will pull fenders fro AWOL and put them on 1x1 for now and will put Big Apples 29x2.35 on AWOL. 2015 Salsa Fargo 3 frame really got into my head so I want to get it, I think this wheel/tire combo (blunts and g-one) should fit nicely with fenders. And at this point I think I will leave big apples on AWOL


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

mongol777 said:


> I think I will pull fenders fro AWOL and put them on 1x1 for now and will put Big Apples 29x2.35 on AWOL. 2015 Salsa Fargo 3 frame really got into my head so I want to get it, I think this wheel/tire combo (blunts and g-one) should fit nicely with fenders. And at this point I think I will leave big apples on AWOL


Have you had the 29x2.35 Schwlabes on the AWOL? The clearance is VERY close. Not something I would be willing to ride longterm. See my photos on post #82 on first page of this thread.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

InertiaMan said:


> Have you had the 29x2.35 Schwlabes on the AWOL? The clearance is VERY close. Not something I would be willing to ride longterm. See my photos on post #82 on first page of this thread.


Yes, had them before, clearance is good on stock rims. I also posted some pics at some point. Will take fresh ones soon


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## InertiaMan (Apr 16, 2004)

mongol777 said:


> Yes, had them before, clearance is good on stock rims. I also posted some pics at some point. Will take fresh ones soon


I guess you and I have different definitions of "good." Photo below is stock rims.


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## mongol777 (May 26, 2011)

InertiaMan said:


> I guess you and I have different definitions of "good." Photo below is stock rims.
> View attachment 1146391


Yep, I guess we do  Big Apples are not knobby tires, they never pick up a lot of mud in my experience so clearance is adequate for my purposes. 
Apologies for basement light pictures quality

Fork Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Seatstays Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Chainstays from the top Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Chainstays from the bottom Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Hey all.

I am putting together a list of AWOL models by year for the "Specialized AWOL Owner's Group" on Facebook that will become a file that members can download. I also thought a list would be handy for the less obsessed among us buying a secondhand AWOL and wondering what year it is, etc. A buyer could look up the original specification and be able to determine what has been changed etc on their "new" bike.

I am sure I have some of it incorrect, so I would really appreciate any feedback or criticism of my list.

List of Specialized AWOL models by Year

2014
AWOL: Gray with Orange Highlights
AWOL Deluxe: Gray with Orange Highlights (Fenders & Tubus Racks)
AWOL Comp: Black with Bronze Highlights (Swinging Dropouts)
AWOL Transcontinental: Silver (Beltdrive with Alfine 8 IGH - Edition of 100)
AWOL Comp Frameset: Black

2015
AWOL: Gray with Orange Highlights
AWOL Elite: Gray with Orange Highlights (Fenders & Tubus Racks)
AWOL X Polar: Orange with Polar Pattern (Pizza Rack)
AWOL Comp: Black
AWOL Comp Frameset: Black

2016
AWOL: Oak Green (Pizza Rack)
AWOL Elite: White with Blue Highlights (Fenders & Pizza Rack)
AWOL Comp: Black
AWOL Evo: Red (Fenders & Pizza Rack w/ Dynamo Hub)
AWOL Expert Frameset: Black

2017
AWOL: Oak Green
AWOL Comp: Black
AWOL Expert: Manzanita/Red Dirt (Fenders & Pizza Rack w/ Dynamo Hub)
AWOL Expert Frameset: Manzanita (With AWOL stem and bars)

2018
AWOL: Oak Green?
AWOL Comp: Black?
AWOL ----------:
AWOL Frameset:


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

As above, I am putting together a list of bags and tires compatible with the AWOL. There are a lot of questions regarding the fattest tire possible and the best bags, so I am trying to help out with a list of proven tires and bags. For tires, I have mainly relied on photographic evidence, for bags I have not been as stringent.

I would appreciate any feedback or criticism of the list.

Bag Compatibility

On top of Pizza Rack:
ILE Porteur bag
Specialized Pizza Bag
Surly Porteur House?

On sides of Pizza Rack (There seems to be some confusion about this; look for Ortlieb style fixation with mobile lower "tab" rather than hooks.)
Ortlieb Back-Roller Classic

With Tubus Vega (Deluxe & Elite Rear Rack):
Timberline "Venture Above" Panniers
Giant City Pannier (with shortened velcro straps)

With Tubus Logo Classic (2016-2017 Evo & Expert Rear Rack):

With Tubus Tara (Front Low Rider Rack):
Ortlieb Back-Roller Classic

Tire Compatibility

With Mudguards/Fenders (General rule of thumb: Most 700x42-45C tires fit; be careful with anything above 700x45C)
Continental Travel Contact 700x50 (That's 29x2.0 as marked. I would say be careful with other 29x2.0 tires and fenders.)
Kenda Flintridge pro 700x40C
Schwalbe Little Big Ben 700x40C
Specialized Trigger 700x42C
Specialized Fatboy 700x45C

Without Mudguards/Fenders (General rule of thumb: A lot of 29x2.0-2.2 tires fit; be careful with anything fatter than 29x2.2)
Continental X-King 29 x 2.2
Maxxis Ikon 29 x 2.2
Schwalbe Racing Ralph 29 x 2.1
Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB 29 x 2.1
Schwalbe Big Apple 29 x 2.35 (Tight clearance)
Schwalbe Big Ben 29 x 2.35 (Tight clearance)
WTB Nanoraptor 29 x 2.1


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

Still lovin' my AWOL.







Road, gravel and trail (with caution) at Deep Creek Lake, MD


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Hjalti said:


> Still lovin' my AWOL.
> View attachment 1149041
> 
> Road, gravel and trail (with caution) at Deep Creek Lake, MD


Nice picture :thumbsup:

Are you still using the stock shifter and sora front derailleur? It looks like you have a xt rear derailleur.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

Hjalti said:


> Still lovin' my AWOL.
> View attachment 1149041
> 
> Road, gravel and trail (with caution) at Deep Creek Lake, MD


Nice! Loving the white side walls on the tires.


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

Papanowel said:


> Nice picture :thumbsup:
> 
> Are you still using the stock shifter and sora front derailleur? It looks like you have a xt rear derailleur.


After being dissatisfied with the mech discs, I switched to hydraulic brakes (TRP), and I'm using shimano 9 speed shifters on Kelly Take-Offs. I also put on a Shimano MTB 3 ring crankset for low gear goodness. Using the Stock Front Derailleur. I also spent some time fenderless and running Kenda small block 8s (2.2) and just barely had enough clearance. Now I'm back to fenders and rolling specialized fatboy slicks. Very happy with them.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Hjalti said:


> After being dissatisfied with the mech discs, I switched to hydraulic brakes (TRP), and I'm using shimano 9 speed shifters on Kelly Take-Offs. I also put on a Shimano MTB 3 ring crankset for low gear goodness. Using the Stock Front Derailleur. I also spent some time fenderless and running Kenda small block 8s (2.2) and just barely had enough clearance. Now I'm back to fenders and rolling specialized fatboy slicks. Very happy with them.


Thank you for all the informations. :thumbsup:


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## cellery (Jul 24, 2015)

mongol777 said:


> Can't find another thread with 650B chat so will post here.
> I got the G-Ones, 27.5x2.4 and unlike Pacenti NeoMoto's they mount tru to size even before they stretch. So Neo's were clearing chainstays just enough (close 57mm measure at the nobs) but Schwalbe's are no go (on same blunt 35s rims). Front is fine, rear has no clearance. May be frame with adjusters can clear them but not standard one.
> I am tempted to dimple chainstays, will sleep on it. Looks really good and wheels are noticeably lighter compared to stock (even in draft form with tubes)Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


That looks so cool - thanks for sharing; sucks that it won't work out in your case. However where I live (Phoenix, AZ) fenders are entirely unnecessary.

So what I am garnering from the pics is that a 650b AWOL without fenders will clear knobby tires somewhere in the 2.35 - 2.4 range. 
(I know that big a tire will fit the fork... but the chainstays are my concern - thoughts?)


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## Great_Egret (Feb 6, 2016)

cellery said:


> That looks so cool - thanks for sharing; sucks that it won't work out in your case. However where I live (Phoenix, AZ) fenders are entirely unnecessary.
> 
> So what I am garnering from the pics is that a 650b AWOL without fenders will clear knobby tires somewhere in the 2.35 - 2.4 range.
> (I know that big a tire will fit the fork... but the chainstays are my concern - thoughts?)


I fit both 2.1 Shwalbe Racing Ralphs and Thunder Burts 29ers on my AWOL. To get them to fit by the chainstay, I had to flip the plastic cable holders to the outside of the chainstay. It was still tight. You might get a mm or two more near the chainstay with 650b, but it's not likely.

But I'd love to be proven wrong, so I'm looking forward to seeing someone try!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

PDKL45 said:


> As above, I am putting together a list of bags and tires compatible with the AWOL. There are a lot of questions regarding the fattest tire possible and the best bags, so I am trying to help out with a list of proven tires and bags. For tires, I have mainly relied on photographic evidence, for bags I have not been as stringent.
> 
> I would appreciate any feedback or criticism of the list.
> 
> ...


Thanks for putting these lists together. Its nice to have it in one spot and not have to hunt for this kind of info.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

trailbrain said:


> Thanks for putting these lists together. Its nice to have it in one spot and not have to hunt for this kind of info.


No problem. I actually need to get back to those lists and update/enlarge them, and will do so in the future.


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## misternicholas (Jul 28, 2016)

cellery said:


> That looks so cool - thanks for sharing; sucks that it won't work out in your case. However where I live (Phoenix, AZ) fenders are entirely unnecessary.
> 
> So what I am garnering from the pics is that a 650b AWOL without fenders will clear knobby tires somewhere in the 2.35 - 2.4 range.
> (I know that big a tire will fit the fork... but the chainstays are my concern - thoughts?)


My 650b wheelset are 2.2" Maxxis ikons & they clear with plenty of room. 2.3" would fit but I would be worried about rubbing 2.4s.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

Another Awol rider here. Love the frame but made some mods for riding Iceland. Will make some more now I'm back!

Went with octalink hollow arm crankset, triple, 26-34-48, guard, LX spec, and swapped the right shifter for triple. I'd previously tried the Tiagra triple crankset but the 30 wasn't low enough and the solid arms are heavy.

Changed the brake pads although I'm still not sold on the Sprye's, I've had them on another bike and they don't have the bite of hydraulics.

I rode on 700c x 42c's and in touring config it was not enough for loose dirt, snow, sand etc. I've come back and yearn for wider wheels so the intention is 650b's on 25mm rims. I think 25mm is good for 2.35 approx tyres while 30's might spread them too much. I'm not after cornering, just max width surface area on the ground. Let me know your thoughts or recommendations on this!

I ditched the pizza rack for a low-rider but now I'm going down the bikepacker route it might have been a bad decision. I'd thought the pizza rack was a cost cutting exercise, perhaps not.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

WTB Asym i29 with Schwalbe Smart Sam 2.25

Just fits on the rear (requires perfect wheel dishing).


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

I was pulling my kids around in the Burley trailer attached to my AWOL the other day. It was so nice to have the stiffness in the AWOL frame and disc brakes to handling stopping power. 

My old bianchi I used to tow the trailer with would squirm all over the place and stopping was really walking on egg shells.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Anyone got any leads on the 2018 models yet? Specialized are releasing 2018 models slowly (they made a conscious decision to do that) and it looks like AWOLS are either going to be missing from some markets in 2018. 

Coming after the reduction in AWOL models offered for 2017, it sort of makes you wonder what the future holds for the AWOL.


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

PDKL45 said:


> Anyone got any leads on the 2018 models yet? Specialized are releasing 2018 models slowly (they made a conscious decision to do that) and it looks like AWOLS are either going to be missing from some markets in 2018.
> 
> Coming after the reduction in AWOL models offered for 2017, it sort of makes you wonder what the future holds for the AWOL.


Well now I'm glad I didn't sell mine when I had the chance.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

Smart Sam's (2.25) don't quite fit - too close, I've stuck Big Bens on (2.1") until I can dint the chain-stays.

My fender flap has split at both ends, Specialized do not carry the item and can't replace under warranty. Bit crap of them.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

So it looks like there are no new models or colorways for the 2018 AWOL and the frameset option is no longer unavailable. I emailed Specialized, asking if the AWOL page of the website was going to be updated for 2018. To quote a customer service rep:

_The models up on the website are the 2018 AWOLs. We do not have a frameset available for 2018, but still have a couple XS and S frames available from 2017._

In 2018 the AWOL is missing from some European countries, as well as Australia and NZ, and probably others. Now, with Diverge updates and a focus on the Sequoia, it looks like the AWOL may struggle to find a place for itself in the Specialized lineup in the future.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

If the awol is discontinued they wont have a travelbike in the lineup that can be equipped with an internal gear hub without the need for a chain tensioner. I am a fan of IGHs so a sequioa, diverge etc is out of the question for me. Would be a shame but for specialized it is probably not worth it. And I can imagine that, it is still a real pita to combine dropbars and igh nowadays.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

They're getting hammered by Genesis Tour De Fer in the UK which is overall a better spec'd bike. They made too many mistakes with the double road gearing and dropping the Reynolds tubing.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

Has anyone here converted to a 180 disc up front? Using Shimano's bracket the angle and position is completely off, so much so that the disc hits the inner top wall of the caliper. What works reasonable well is if I make my own identical spacers about 18mm long. I've had a thread going on facebook too but nobody has figured it out. It's as if the frame builder angled the caliper for a 180mm disc and then chopped 18mm off the ends to fit a 160 disc... which is confusing.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

Please note the lovely rubber fender extenders are not available for replacement. Mine ripped at the sides and Specialized can't provide or replace them. Minus one point.


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## cyclingdutchman (Mar 18, 2015)

Hey snoopy20, how wide are those fenders exactly? Maybe an SKS spoiler would fit? Those come in several sizes corresponding with the widths of their fender sets. Good luck.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

snoopy20 said:


> They're getting hammered by Genesis Tour De Fer in the UK which is overall a better spec'd bike. They made too many mistakes with the double road gearing and dropping the Reynolds tubing.


The Reynolds tubing was only on some models to begin with, the other models were always generic cromolly.

The gearing of the AWOL has always been an issue from the start, and it's well addressed previously in this thread. To my mind, the bike should have had a 28-40 MTB double crankset with an 11-40 cassette, or a drivetrain in that range. Expecting the riders of the first 2014 models to pack up their camping gear and ride off up gravel fire roads with a granny gear of 30-32 was always somewhat optimistic, but the Sora components allowed them to run STI shifters, instead of the Microshift bar end shifters they would have needed for an MTB drivetrain.

The Tour de Fer is a nice bike as well, and it has much better touring rims than the AWOL. Still, it's 10-speed Tiagra, with narrower chains and faster wear, and it has the same granny gear of 30-32 as the original AWOLS did. The 2017 AWOL models, in comparison, had a 30-39-50 Sora triple, like the triple Tiagra, but with a 12-36 cassette and 9-speed Alivio MTB derailleur, offering a significantly better climbing gear for loose road surfaces and steep hills.

I agree that mistakes were made with the AWOL, but I wouldn't necessarily be running straight out to pick up a Tour de Fer either.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

PDKL45 said:


> The Reynolds tubing was only on some models to begin with, the other models were always generic cromolly.
> 
> The gearing of the AWOL has always been an issue from the start, and it's well addressed previously in this thread. To my mind, the bike should have had a 28-40 MTB double crankset with an 11-40 cassette, or a drivetrain in that range. Expecting the riders of the first 2014 models to pack up their camping gear and ride off up gravel fire roads with a granny gear of 30-32 was always somewhat optimistic, but the Sora components allowed them to run STI shifters, instead of the Microshift bar end shifters they would have needed for an MTB drivetrain.
> 
> ...


Also, IIRC, 10 speed Tiagra STI shifter/rear derailleur has a unique pull ratio that can not be used with other 10 speed shifters. I recently tried to put a Tiagra RD with a 105 shifter and couldn't get it to shift across the range (yes, I straightened the hanger). I queried the Shimano techs and received this response:

4700 stuff is not compatible with any other 10 speed stuff. The cable pull profiles are the same as 2x11 stuff.

Also, though 4700 is a road component group, it was designed for HG-95 chain.
====================
I had liked that you could use a 9 speed MTB long cage rear derailleur with other 10 speed road shifters so that you could run an 11-36 cassette for just such an application as above.

I am running SRAM Rival 10 speed with a long cage GX rear derailleur, mated with an 11-36 cassette and a White Industries VBC crankset with 26/42 chainrings. I am running a Shimano CX front derailleur and it all shifts fairly well, especially considering it's a cobbled together groupset. I am still not aware of any groupsets that address the unique requirements some of us face with bikes like this.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

jeffj said:


> Also, IIRC, 10 speed Tiagra STI shifter/rear derailleur has a unique pull ratio that can not be used with other 10 speed shifters. I recently tried to put a Tiagra RD with a 105 shifter and couldn't get it to shift across the range (yes, I straightened the hanger). I queried the Shimano techs and received this response:
> 
> 4700 stuff is not compatible with any other 10 speed stuff. The cable pull profiles are the same as 2x11 stuff.
> 
> ...


One of the problems with 4700 stuff is that you can't use it with a Wolftooth Tanpan for shifting an MTB derailleur with STI levers.

You can use a Wolftooth Roadlink, though, so the 2016 Elite can be geared better with a Roadlink and an 11-40 Sunrace cassette, as the front FSA crankset is 46-34, the 12 tooth difference that the Roadlink likes.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

You could make your own easily enough if you used the split ones as templates. Get a piece of chalk and, using an old MTB tire (or some source of rubber), trace around the old mudflap and then cut it out carefully with heavy duty kitchen shears or a craft knife. Get a sharp punch for the bolt holes and punch them out using the template split mudflap.

You could do it or you could have someone else do it. I have seen it done with slick Schwalbes.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

PDKL45 said:


> The Reynolds tubing was only on some models to begin with, the other models were always generic cromolly.
> 
> The gearing of the AWOL has always been an issue from the start, and it's well addressed previously in this thread. To my mind, the bike should have had a 28-40 MTB double crankset with an 11-40 cassette, or a drivetrain in that range. Expecting the riders of the first 2014 models to pack up their camping gear and ride off up gravel fire roads with a granny gear of 30-32 was always somewhat optimistic, but the Sora components allowed them to run STI shifters, instead of the Microshift bar end shifters they would have needed for an MTB drivetrain.
> 
> ...


The de Fer runs a triple 5703, makes a mighty difference for touring. It's still not good enough though and after trying it I ended up fitting a standard MTN XT crank.

The Reynolds was on the Awol Elite originally, then it disappeared. You're right on the rims, I have a mate who went touring on them and the spokes fractured the rim in many places.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

I find the 4703 shifter works ok with MTN 26-34-48 but ocassionally misses the middle on upshift. I'll try and tweak it but it needs a little work as the MTN BB moves it too far over with spacers. I ended up with no spacers on the drive and 3 on the opposite which gives the BB very little to screw into. So far so good.

I'm getting my frame "whacked" next week to fit in the 2.4"'s.


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## snoopy20 (Aug 9, 2017)

I'm looking to change the upper headset bracket cone. I asked Specialized which FSA Orbit model it is but they don't know. Will a generic cone work or is it FSA bearing specific? There seems to be plenty which integrate the spacers and if I can get an all-in-one I'd rather do that.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

snoopy20 said:


> The de Fer runs a triple 5703, makes a mighty difference for touring. It's still not good enough though and after trying it I ended up fitting a standard MTN XT crank.
> 
> The Reynolds was on the Awol Elite originally, then it disappeared. You're right on the rims, I have a mate who went touring on them and the spokes fractured the rim in many places.


The rim are garbage on the Elite one (2015 model), I did a big tour last year and ended up with a rear broken rim. I purchased a nice pair of Ryde Sputnik with 36 spokes an XT hub. It's heavier but at least it will work for ages.

If I knew what I was getting I would have build a bike around the Comp frame instead and choose wisely my gear. Anyway I still have pleasure to ride the bike and it brought me to many nice places.

At the end, the only things remaining on my bike (beside the frame) are the seatpost, the handlebar, the front derailleur & shifters and finally the disk brakes.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

are these new models or some old ones?

schneider-sports


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

The AWOLs at that site look like they're from 2016. The white Elite was a 2016 model and the Bronze highlights were used on the 2016 comps as well.

2018 AWOLs--if you are in a market that has them--are Manzanita Red (red dirt color), Black with Black highlights and Oak Green.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

you mean these, arent these 2017 models?

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/awol


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

No. They're 2018 models. They left all colors and models the same, took the frameset option away for 2018 and called it a day; it wasn't much of an update.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

why do they use different sizing names for awol, xl instead of 61, 64 etc.

would would awol xl be in that size?


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## trailbrain (Feb 22, 2005)

PDKL45 said:


> AWOL converted to a flat Jones style loop bar for upright position. My back demanded it.
> 
> View attachment 1105012
> 
> ...


I'm curious about your handlebar setup. Has your back been doing well with these? How about any hand issues?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

trailbrain said:


> I'm curious about your handlebar setup. Has your back been doing well with these? How about any hand issues?


That configuration is now long gone. It helped my back, but the angled Jones-style bars only really offered one hand position, and were to wide for road riding, for me at least. I tried stubby bar ends, which were uncomfortable, and found the originally pictured grips to be too fat at the thumb and index finger.

I went to I went to 580mm XC Flat bars with Ergotec Touring bar ends:









Still, it did not have enough stack and the reach remained too long. The grips were flared at the ends as well, so I couldn't easily rest the balls of my thumbs half on the grips and half on the corners of the bar ends with my thumbs extended up along the bar ends. Crucially, however, the grips were too long by 5mm, so the bar ends were half pushed off the ends of the bars so they couldn't be torqued all the way for fear of crushing the bars.

I replaced the stock stem with an Ergotec High Charisma, bringing the bars up considerably and put on Velo Attune grips.









The bike is currently having its front rim replaced, and a few other things done, but I am going to go back to the Ergotec touring bar ends with foam grips in a couple of days, with the new higher stem.

I am about to start experimenting to find a long-term configuration that I am happy with, particularly for 200km-300km one day rides (brevets/randonnees/permanents/personal day rides). I have lots of cheap foam cover material for now and I have some cheap Chinese knockoff Ritchey and ESI grips coming my way. I am going to use the cheap knockoffs for trial and error configurations before getting more expensive, but better quality, brand name products for the longer term.

In hindsight, I think bullhorn bars with the original STI levers, like the new Nitto Sigma, would have been unconventional, but desirable, in terms of retaining the "hoods" position for road riding. Personally, with hindsight, that's probably what i should have done. The Jones style bars would be good offroad I think, but don't really work for my personal riding.

The whole "reorganizing the geometry of the bike to keep riding into the forseeable future with a really bad back" has been a f^&*ing odyssey, but I am learning how to deal with the back issue while riding to avoid injuring myself. The new handlebar configurations(s) have been a huge part of that and it's an ongoing process.

I will post some more pics in a few days, with what I hope is the last new configuration for a good long while.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Most recent bar configuration. This one feels a lot more natural and offers many more hand positions, but the corner portions are going to need some gel pads or some other solution going forward.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

What do people thin about the basic awol model in general?

It cost 1100£ in UK, and this seems rather steep for its components I think:

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Specialized-AWOL-700c-2018-Road-Bike_96608.htm

What are good (and similar) alternatives available in uk / europe?


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

toni31 said:


> What do people thin about the basic awol model in general?
> 
> It cost 1100£ in UK, and this seems rather steep for its components I think:
> 
> ...


Kona Sutra, Genesis tour de fer, Marin Giramondo, Bombtrack Beyond (cost more than 1100£ ), there are others.

I bought my Spe on the exact same website as you mentioned.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

I am actually looking at Marin Four Corners now and it looks rather attractive offer for 850£.

https://www.marinbikes.com/gb/bikes/four-corners-blue


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

toni31 said:


> I am actually looking at Marin Four Corners now and it looks rather attractive offer for 850£.
> 
> https://www.marinbikes.com/gb/bikes/four-corners-blue


Nice bike, if you look at the specification and compare to the Awol, there are rather similar. You won't be disappointed with such a bike + you'll save a few bucks. :thumbsup:


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

I just hope then havent saved on frame material?

Still, AWOL looks more beautiful, not that this matters much on long distance world tours


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## Truckee Trash (Sep 18, 2007)

Papanowel said:


> Nice bike, if you look at the specification and compare to the Awol, there are rather similar. You won't be disappointed with such a bike + you'll save a few bucks. :thumbsup:


Funny you mention that - both bikes were developed by the same guy. AWOL first, then on to Marin ...


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Truckee Trash said:


> Funny you mention that - both bikes were developed by the same guy. AWOL first, then on to Marin ...


Erik Nohlin? I didn't know he was involved with the Marin Four Corners, but I do know that the AWOL project had been started when he took over. Maybe you're taking about his predecessor?


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Truckee Trash said:


> Funny you mention that - both bikes were developed by the same guy. AWOL first, then on to Marin ...


Thanks for the info. I did not know that :thumbsup:


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## Truckee Trash (Sep 18, 2007)

Erik just takes all the credit for the bike. He was hired half way thru the development. A few of us were fighting for and developing that bike for a good year or so before. There was a big fight within in the walls to produce a steel bike in a world of high performance carbon - also part of why it was initially released as a Globe bike and then with the death of that brand it got swallowed into Specialized's lineup.


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

Death of what brand?


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## Truckee Trash (Sep 18, 2007)

Globe Bikes was an urban sub brand of Specialized that has since folded and the standout bikes like the AWOL and ROLL have bene absorbed into the Specialized lineup.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

...


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

...


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## toni31 (Jul 22, 2012)

anybody can make a picture of awol with tubus tara mounted?

I am confused, according to tubus instructions:

http://www.tubus.com/documents/1502962507_TU_Tara_MA_3.1_web.pdf

tara should attach at fork bottom in triangular looking holes (which looks stronger), while opposite 'straight' holes are for fenders.

But this doesnt work.



http://imgur.com/s5JhB


It could only work if I flip tara to point in opposite direction (so that bottom curved hooks point backwards)

Even in that case, mount for fenders would still point forwards, which is wrong, but I am not even sure if you can mount tara that way. Its not mentioned in the instructions.

Here is how I envisioned flip mount, it looks perfect (except for the fenders mount in wrong direction, but I have fenders mount of my fork)



http://imgur.com/ivHBH


But I am not sure about structural integrity


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

jeffj said:


> I may be selling a 2016 XL AWOL Expert frame and fork soon. . . .


Alas, the time has come. . . . . .

http://forums.mtbr.com/classifieds/fs-2016-awol-xl-expert-frameset-1067208.html#post13509141


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Finally, after a f%$#ing odyssey, I am back to the Jones-style bars, which, when used with the Ergotec High Charisma stem, have put the bars in the position I always wanted them to be in.

I made a bit of a mistake with brake lever and trigger shifter positioning this time around, but that will be solved in the coming months, when I swap the grips and rewrap the bars. The important thing is that I am at peace with my bike fit for the first time in over a year.

I was wrong about the Jones-style bars; I needed to change the stem for stack and have swept bars for reach. That flat Easton EA50 bar was narrow enough, but the bar ends were uncomfortable and didn't help with reducing reach to where I wanted it to be.

So happy to have arrived at bar/stem configuration I can happily live with.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

...


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

*Awol*








From this weekend. Still thinking about a taller stem, but no other changes (since earlier in this thread).


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Hjalti said:


> View attachment 1198054
> 
> From this weekend. Still thinking about a taller stem, but no other changes (since earlier in this thread).


What stem are you looking at?


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

PDKL45 said:


> What stem are you looking at?


Nothing special, just something like a Dimension Stem to bring the bars up another inch or so.


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

...


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Looks like the AWOL's days are numbered. No official word from Specialized yet--they have yet to update their website for 2019 models--but a couple of sources are saying that there will be no 2019 models.

Thoughts? Eulogies?


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

A sad end for the bike and something of a sad end for this thread. The AWOL was never really a "gravel grinder," as much as it was a light offroad tourer and exploration bike; an adventure bike.

Someone here at MTBR lumped this thread into the Gravel sub-forum when it was made, because someone included the word gravel in the title, back in 2013 or so. The thread has had no traction here in this forum at all, maybe because the AWOL isn't really a competitive gravel racer.

I think it's frustrating that the AWOL seems to have had to take a back seat to the Sequoia at Specialized, when I feel they both have a place in the Specialized range. A heavy touring bike and a lighter, sports touring bike: Like having both a Long haul Trucker and a Cross-check in your line up. 

I feel that there were missed opportunities with the AWOL frameset, the original top level frame with swinging dropouts. They were problematic for some, the droupouts, that is, as they were hard to secure in place at times. I would like to have been able to buy a second generation AWOL frame with refined swinging dropouts and Rohloff plates (making AWOL-specific Rohloff swinging dropout plates was a vague promise that was made in 2015 or so, but few seem to have seen those plates).

But I don't think the Sequoia is to blame. The AWOL was never really a Specialized bike and it has always been a bit of an outlier in the Specialized lineup (my mechanic calls mine the Specialized Surly), and maybe the sportier Sequoia is a better fit with the brand.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

Sad end 

Since I have bought my bike I have only seen one in Belgium besides mine...


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## Long Ranger (Jan 16, 2019)

Hey I'm new to this gravel grinding I have a 2018 AWOL and I saw the picture open a wall with a revelate Ripio Frame bag and I need to find out what size frame the bike was and what size the frame bag they ordered


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## Natrix29er (Dec 30, 2017)

My dad has an AWOL Expert, and he loves that thing, last summer we went on a 112ish mile bike-packing trip, and now my brother an I are hooked and now both have AWOL’s of our own! I got the base in matte green, which if I’m honest, did not know existed at the time and I love it! And my brother got 2nd to last Comp that specialized had left, lbs had to order it. 
With a set of 1.9 Groundcontrols on, it feels like a feaken Jeep! In a good way, I love this bike, it makes me want to get out and ride more! But lately we keep getting snowstorm after snowstorm. Spring can’t come soon enough!
I’ve been thinking and researching a 650b wheel set and if it’d be worth it. I feel like I could have a fun livelier setup with a lighter 650b setup for just riding, and use the set that came with it for touring. Either way, it’s a great bike. It’s a little different and I like that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## glorp (Sep 27, 2016)

I have a 2018 base AWOL. I bought it because I like the color and versatility. It is my first drop bar bike ever in 50+ years (honest) And as much as I have tried, I am just uncomfortable with the bars. So I have decided to convert it to flat bars. Seems like an easy project, no? No. 
(btw, I am a bicycle mechanic complete amateur, I have no place nor special tools to work on it at home)
I took it to the store where I bought it 3 weeks ago, firstly to tighten the front, you could feel play when rocking the bike with the front brake held. I asked about converting and they told me no problem, they would look up some prices and give me a quote. I got 3 quotes by email over the next 4 days...each time I gave approval I got an answering email saying minimum a month to get the parts. So I went and picked up the bike a week later, and they still had not addressed the original reason I brought it in. It seems like they are super friendly when you buy the bike only.
I started researching online to see what I would need. Brake levers seemed no problem. I explored friction and trigger shifters and found a few options available, but when I tried to source them they are out of stock everywhere (I'm in Canada) I didn't want to pay more than $200 just for a set shipped out of the US, or overseas.
And then a possible solution presented itself. A friend of mine bought a 2017 Cannondale Cujo 2. He immediately changed it from the stock Deore 2x10 to a 1x. He is giving me all the components he took off.
My long winded preamble question is what would I need to use this drivetrain? I believe almost everything will be a direct swap except for the crank? A part spec or links would help me greatly.
Here is a link to what the Cujo comes with

https://www.cannondale.com/International/bike/Productdetail?Id=3371f384-45bd-4d2f-aeec-086acdd85bb1

Thanks for any help in advance


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## PDKL45 (Jun 1, 2008)

Just a PSA regarding the AWOL. Please check your frame for cracks, especially in the chainstays just behind the wheel clearance indentations as well as in the thin piece of metal just above the derailleur hanger. As the AWOL is discontinued, Specialized were replacing frames with Sequoia frames under Warranty, but the Sequoia has been discontinued as well. Cromolly steel can always be welded of course, if you are not the original owner of your AWOL.

The cracking problem seems to be especially pronounced in the later model year olive green base model AWOLs, but it has been seen in original satin gray/orange models as well.


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## Papanowel (May 30, 2015)

PDKL45 said:


> Just a PSA regarding the AWOL. Please check your frame for cracks, especially in the chainstays just behind the wheel clearance indentations as well as in the thin piece of metal just above the derailleur hanger.


Thanks for the information, I broke the derailleur hanger (I have no clue how...) a couple of month ago... it took 1 month for my bike dealer to get the correct one. 
I'l have a look on the frame later and see if something has moved. Luckily I have a 2015 model (the grey one).

I'm going to sell it as I moved to an other travel bike (Shand Tam):


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## Hjalti (Jan 22, 2004)

Well, Crap.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Seat post not inserted far enough?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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