# Miyata Path Runner questions



## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Just picked up a "seafoam green?" Path Runner this weekend at a moving sale for 5 bucks because the original 26 x 2.00 tires had rotten sidewalls. I had 2 new 26 x 2.125s laying around the garage, so I put those on, otherwise in real nice condition except for I noticed there is some looseness in the crank, the foam rubber hand grips are splitting, and the rear wheel round clear plastic part between the gears and spokes is yellowed and brittle and has a notch out of it (probably common problems). Are the crank bearings easy to change? Or is there a way to adjust the play out? I can't hear any noise or feel anything wrong when I ride it, I just don't think they should be loose like they are. I'm sure they at least need to be cleaned and greased, but would like to find some instructions to read first, if possible. 
I'm assuming it's a 1991, but I can't find much info on this model. I saw another post with a picture of the same bike/same color and it was labeled 1991 (https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/507/medium/233364miyata_PR_rightside.JPG), the only difference seemed to be I have an "Inline" carrier on he back of mine. Was this color on this model only produced for 1 year? Any idea what they sold for new when they came out? I'm assuming it was a lower end road/mountain bike. Seems to be easy to ride and pedal and fairly light w/alot of alloy, although the handlebars are chromed steel. Does anyone have any info/specs on this model?
Thanks.


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## funds (Jul 5, 2010)

it could be an 88

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwlQ/R1w7lzQppwI/AAAAAAAAAXk/GlBrH7m_VKM/s1600-h/img166.jpg

check out the miyata catalogs page for more info

https://www.miyatacatalogs.com


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## mechagouki (Nov 30, 2007)

If you like the bike and plan to keep riding it, take it to a good local bike shop and have them give it a tune-up, they'll remove the decaying "dork-disc" and adjust the bottom bracket for you, if you continue to ride with it loose you will destroy the bearing cages and possibly pit the races. Enjoy your new ride!


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks for the feedback, I don't know why I don't see them in the catalogs, and it's hard to read the print on my computer. Any idea what they cost new?
I'd like to take it in and throw money on the counter and have it all serviced, but all my money goes to taxes and bills, don't have much left for recreational activities, that's why I shop at garage sales. So I will probably try to fix it up myself. Any idea how I can get the crank apart? The pedal arms are on pretty tight and removing the nuts didn't let the pedal arms come off. Is there a service manual online anywhere? What should I use to remove them? I'm pretty sure I'll find the bearings are shot when I open it up. Are they easy to find?


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## MERK26 (Aug 31, 2009)

You`ll need a special tool called a "Crank puller" to remove the arms. Check out sheldonbrown.com for more instructions...


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks, I feel like I'm getting closer to the info I need. I just need to find out if I have the typical 22mm thread in the pedal arm so I know which Park tool I need. Anyone know the thread size in a 1988-91 Shimano Exage Trail pedal on a Miyata Runner? 
Thanks.


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## ong (Jun 26, 2006)

A standard crank puller/extractor will be fine for any Shimano square taper cranks, like the ones you're dealing with. Check out the Park Tool "repair clinic" site before you get too far.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=59&imageField2.x=15&imageField2.y=5


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks for the links, those were helpful. I finally tore it apart and everything looks good except for the RH side bearing cup/race/cap. It feels like it is supposed to have a raised ring all the way around the inside of the cap, but this one is worn away where the ball rode against it in one area. I think it looks like it was maybe never adjusted properly and the balls traveled out of the race and wore out an area outside the race . I turned the adjusting nut slightly before I removed everything and it snugged up nicely. The problem now is that I can't get that race on the RH side out of the frame, there is hardly any area to get a wrench onto the flats and get any kind of torque on it. 

Any tips on removing that RH race? I don't want to butcher it if there's an easier way to remove it. 

Thanks.


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## mechagouki (Nov 30, 2007)

cimchazz1 said:


> Any tips on removing that RH race? I don't want to butcher it if there's an easier way to remove it.
> 
> .


LOL, bike shops sometimes have trouble getting out the' fixed' cup, there is a special tool for doing just that, but if you're brave you can sometimes do it with a large pair of vise grips - just don't blame me when you take the skin off your knuckles!


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

I'd like to thank everyone for the helpful hints. I put the bearings back in after a good cleaning of everything and greasing and they run nice and smooth, there's one spot where I can feel a slight bit of play if I hold the petals and rock them in that spot, but I decided to ride as is for now as it is smooth and quiet and I don't want to destroy my hands and/or the frame trying to make it "perfect" (and I'm tired of looking for these damn parts). 
Here's some "lessons learned" from the last few days:
1. Bike shops don't want to/can't answer repair questions 
2. Bike shops don't know what a "gear" is, but they know what a "chain ring" is
3. Bike shops don't know what the thread dimension for common chain ring/gear bolts in Shimano crank arm spyders is, and don't know where to get the taps to clean the threads, but they are happy to sell you a small bag of the "bolts" for $25.00. One shop suggested I drill the holes out to a tap/bolt size I could find easily and re-tap it to the new bolt. But I figured out where to get the tap. It's an M8 x .75 (fine thread) and a place called Production Tool in Farmington Hills, MI sells them for about $4.50. They aren't made for the "blind hole", but you can get most of the threads,even a few more if you grind the tip a few mm's.
4. Koga-Miyata doesn't answer ANY questions about Miyata bikes, they will just repeat over and over, "those haven't been made here in 15 years and we have no information". 
5. The old brittle "dork disc" comes off easily even with the wheel on the bike 
6. This site is a great source of information for those of us who are interested in keeping these nice old bikes on the road and out of the land fills. 
Thanks everyone!! :thumbsup:


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

*Hey that's my bike*



cimchazz1 said:


> Just picked up a "seafoam green?" Path Runner this weekend at a moving sale for 5 bucks because the original 26 x 2.00 tires had rotten sidewalls. I had 2 new 26 x 2.125s laying around the garage, so I put those on, otherwise in real nice condition except for I noticed there is some looseness in the crank, the foam rubber hand grips are splitting, and the rear wheel round clear plastic part between the gears and spokes is yellowed and brittle and has a notch out of it (probably common problems). Are the crank bearings easy to change? Or is there a way to adjust the play out? I can't hear any noise or feel anything wrong when I ride it, I just don't think they should be loose like they are. I'm sure they at least need to be cleaned and greased, but would like to find some instructions to read first, if possible.
> I'm assuming it's a 1991, but I can't find much info on this model. I saw another post with a picture of the same bike/same color and it was labeled 1991 (https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/507/medium/233364miyata_PR_rightside.JPG), the only difference seemed to be I have an "Inline" carrier on he back of mine. Was this color on this model only produced for 1 year? Any idea what they sold for new when they came out? I'm assuming it was a lower end road/mountain bike. Seems to be easy to ride and pedal and fairly light w/alot of alloy, although the handlebars are chromed steel. Does anyone have any info/specs on this model?
> Thanks.


Or it _was_ my bike. I sold it around a year ago. I always loved that color and it rode really nice. It's still going strong as a townie/campus bike in Marquette Michigan. :thumbsup:


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## Fred Smedley (Feb 28, 2006)

mechagouki said:


> LOL, bike shops sometimes have trouble getting out the' fixed' cup, there is a special tool for doing just that, but if you're brave you can sometimes do it with a large pair of vise grips - just don't blame me when you take the skin off your knuckles!


This works better. http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
Scowl down to the homemade fixed cup tool.


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

I think if you search "1991 Miyata Path Runner" that picture will come up with a short explanation of how it was acquired. I got mne from a guy in West Bloomfield. Did yours have a blue nylon "fanny pack" on the front? If it did, do you want it back?


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Nice stem.


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## cimchazz1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Fred, thanks for the info on removing the "fixed" cup, that's probably better than the pipe wrench I had in mind. But now I'm afraid to try and replace all of the parts because of the "dumb" act I got when I called the last 5 bike shops asking about parts. I think I'd have better luck finding parts for a Hudson Terraplane. 
Before I got it all apart the 1st time and saw what it looked like inside, I bought a Shimano FC-M440 bottom bracket on flea-bay, but I don't have it yet. Any idea how I can find out what fits my bike without buying 15 parts and trying them out? Any idea who would even know and be willing to share the information without getting paid for it? I really just need the fixed cup and 11 balls, the rest looks fine.


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## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

*No fanny packin' for me*



cimchazz1 said:


> I think if you search "1991 Miyata Path Runner" that picture will come up with a short explanation of how it was acquired. I got mine from a guy in West Bloomfield. Did yours have a blue nylon "fanny pack" on the front? If it did, do you want it back?


Mine didn't have that and I don't really have a hankering to get one, thanks.  I bought that Path Runner for $40 and it really didn't require anything though I ended up putting new cables and brake pads on. The Shimano Bio-Pace cranks worked great as did all of the other original 6 speed stuff. It still does too. I love how that drivetrain just shifted so good with a nice kerchunk from gear to gear. I'm not a real big fan of those chain stay brakes though. They're kind of a pain to adjust compared to brakes mounted on the seat stay but they worked fine for stopping.

It was a very enjoyable bike to ride, with a really resilient double butted chromoly steel frame ride, I think you'll enjoy riding yours too. I only sold mine because a friend of my daughter needed a good inexpensive bike to get around on at college.


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## Mike Hubbard (May 1, 2021)

Hey that’s my bike lol a few years back, I paid $550.00 brand new


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