# Intense Tazer Review



## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

A little about me, I'm 5'9" 205lbs, been riding MTBs for over 30yrs, and many years ago used to race expert DH. I'm an aggressive DH rider and I've always thought climbing was a necessary evil to mountain bike riding, this is just my opinion.

This is my 1st ebike, I test rode a 2017 Levo about 2yrs ago. I don't have much to base my opinions on about ebikes, except that these class 1 ebikes are so much fun!

Climbing
Who are we kidding, it has a motor, pick a mode (ECO, Trail or Boost) and slay just about any climb in your way! What I find and I'm sure most can agree when you've ridden an ebike for some time is you keep your same cadence as before, you just go faster. Since you keep the same cadence, your heart rate elevates to almost the same level as non-assist bike. Caution, boost will eat up your battery quickly and is probably the worst mode to pick when going up single track. Way too much power! Compared to my 2017 Trek Fuel, ECO is maybe 2 to 3mph faster climbing, Trail mode 3 to 4mph faster and boost 5 to 8mph faster. Only place you can do 20mph climbs is flat or slight incline, if someone tells you different, then they have some serious leg strength and lung power!
ECO is the mode I choose when riding with fellow MTB riders. ECO mode is very smooth engagement and predictable. ECO is slightly stronger than most riders. Also choose this mode for all day adventures! The bike climbs well in ECO, but on steep climbs, I would appreciate lower gearing. The big 27.5 x 2.8 DHRII just grips and claws its way up just about anything. 
When riding by myself, I usually pick Trail mode. Trail mode is like ECO, very smooth and natural feel to it. Trail mode has enough power, that the gearing feels pretty good for most climbs. 
Boost as I said earlier is way too powerful for single track. Boost is not as smooth, kind of abrupt and stays on slightly longer after you stop pedaling. 
For this Shimano motor, I personally believe the sweet spot is between 75 to 90 cadence and this motor feels very natural in ECO & Trail.

Downhill
This bike comes equipped with high end suspension on both end (Front E36 160mm / Rear Float DPX2 155mm). The Tazer has modern geometry (HTA 64.6, STA 75.4, BB Height 347mm, CS 450mm) and fairly short CS considering there's a motor in there. I believe every bike has its sweet spot to where you ride/balance on the bike. This bike likes to be slightly behind center and when corning, move to the center, slightly weigh the front and it just rails. The Tazer just kills the DH, confidence inspiring for just about any trails I've come across so far, from groomed trails to steep techy stuff to big jumps or drops, the Tazer just takes it all in stride. I do believe the weight 48lbs, helps to smooth out the trails and cushion the landing. I've not noticed the weight when riding this bike, only when I have to pick it up. My Strava times for the Downhill sections are either the same or slightly faster compared to my 2017 Trek Fuel. 
I'll update this thread with the components and of course any upgrades I do.

Note: components crossed through indicates upgrade
Frame: Tazer, Carbon Fiber, large, 155mm travel, 64.9 HTA
Motor: Shimano Steps E8000 20mph 250W / ECO / Trail / Boost
Fork: FOX FACTORY E-BIKE 36 FLOAT, Kashima, 160 mm, FIT GRIP2, 15QRx110 BOOST, 51mm Offset
Shock: FOX FACTORY FLOAT DPX2, Trunnion Mount, EVOL, 3-Position Lever 185x55mm
Crank: Shimano XT 165mm, 34T
Pedals: Shimano XT trail 
Shifter: 11-speed XT DI2 11 speed
Derailleur: Shimano XT DI2 11 speed
Cassette: Shimano 11-speed XT Cassette 11-42
Chain: Shimano E-bike, 11 speed
Chain Guide: E-Thirteen Chain Guide
Saddle: Fabric Scoop Radius Elite w/ Cr-Mo Rails
Seat post: Fox Factory Series Transfer, 31.6mm, 150mm travel w/Raceface Lever
Handlebar: Niner Carbon 31.8 - 760mm
Stem: Renthal 35mm 
Brakeset: Shimano XT 4-Piston Hydraulic Disc, 203mm Front and Rear
Headset: Cane Creek 40 Series, ZS44/EC49.40
Grips: Lock-On Revgrips
Wheelset: Front: 29" Bontrager Carbon Proline 30mm inner width / Rear 27.5" Bontrager Carbon Proline 40mm inner width Tubeless
Tires: Front: 29X2.60, MINION DHR II, FOLDABLE, 120TPI, 3CMAXX TERRA/EXO+/TR 
Rear: 27.5X2.8, MINION DHR II, FOLDABLE, 120TPI, 3CMAXX TERRA/EXO+/TR
Travel (front/rear): 160mm / 155mm
Stock Build Weight (no pedals): 47lbs 7oz 47lbs with pedals and stock tubed rear wheel

Geometry
I'm 5'9" Large frame 
475mm reach / BB Height 347mm / BB drop 12mm / HTA 64.9 / STA 75.4
Chainstay length 450mm / Wheelbase 1260mm / Fork Trail 118.88mm / Fork offset 51mm


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Sharp looking bike!

Nice write-up, thanks.

(just need some pics of that beast in the wild )


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Nice bike for sure. Just curious at 5’9” you chose a large? I’m guessing on the fence med/large? Also, what’s the price point?


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

levity said:


> Sharp looking bike!
> 
> Nice write-up, thanks.
> 
> (just need some pics of that beast in the wild )


To be honest, the pictures really turned me off. But when I demo'd it for 3 days, it grew on me. Intense has just announced the Black/Grey version and if I had to do it all over again, that's the color choice I'd take.



Gutch said:


> Nice bike for sure. Just curious at 5'9" you chose a large? I'm guessing on the fence med/large? Also, what's the price point?


I rode both med and large and both sizes felt good. The sizing chart has 5'9" for both med and large. My strength is turning, so I chose to get a bike that's more stable at speed. Intense, right now only has one build and one price point $7,590. The bike shop gave me a good discount and I upgraded a few things right off the bat, like carbon wheels and DI2 XT shifting.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Absolutely brilliant insight.

The bike isn’t pretty but I’ll get one ASAP!!!

A lot of what you say is about the Shimano motor and is spot-on!!!

Expand more on the spec and handling when you have the chance. Good value?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

mtbbiker said:


> To be honest, the pictures really turned me off. But when I demo'd it for 3 days, it grew on me. Intense has just announced the Black/Grey version and if I had to do it all over again, that's the color choice I'd take.
> 
> I rode both med and large and both sizes felt good. The sizing chart has 5'9" for both med and large. My strength is turning, so I chose to get a bike that's more stable at speed. Intense, right now only has one build and one price point $7,590. The bike shop gave me a good discount and I upgraded a few things right off the bat, like carbon wheels and DI2 XT shifting.


I've ran di2 for 3-4yrs now on road, mtb etc and absolutely love it. No adjustments, cable frays/stretch. Crisp shifting. I haven't experienced any downside. You?


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## honkinunit (Aug 6, 2004)

Thanks for this great review. The Tazer is now on my list for my next ebike. 

A question: How easy is it to remove the battery? I store my bikes in an unheated building and in winter I need to remove the battery to charge it. (It is not good to charge an ebike battery at cold temperatures (or hot)).


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I also just purchased a Tazer and love it. I dont think i could write a better review. All of your comments are spot on. I have not changed to the Shimano DI2 stuff and worry about wearing out the chain and cassette prematurely as it seems to shift very abruptly. It is difficult to shift without it doing it while the motor is delivering power. I heard that the DI2 stuff is integrated into the motor so that it tells the motor to decrease power when each shift occurs. Is that true? 
As with others, I too wasn't too stoked on the look of the tazer but it has also grown on me and appreciate that I can run a common, stock Shimano battery at a much lower price than many of the competitors out there. It is also very easy to change out compared to many other designs. It would be nice to be more stealthy out on the trail and keep the fact that I am on a ebike a little more discrete but oh well. 
My main issue is that I am very worried that I will not want to get back on my analog bike(Intense Primer) anymore. When I go into my garage to pick a bike, I have a hard time saying no to the Tazer.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

I'm really stoked about this review. From our new e-moderator too.

And you know what, this would not have been possible a month ago as other would have attacked him for writing this. Now we have a good place to share information.

Throw him some 'rep' love if you like the content. And follow the example he set and share some insights.


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

Great review. I have had mine for a couple of months now. At 5' 10" I went with the medium and couldn't be happier with my choice. PNW tight switchbacks, steep up down transitions, fast flowing trails with long climbs to access all. 
I set mine up mostly the same with the following changes.

Frame: Tazer, Carbon Fiber,Medium, 155mm travel, 64.9 HTA
Motor: Shimano Steps E8000 20mph 250W / ECO / Trail / Boost
Fork: FOX FACTORY Standard 36 FLOAT, Kashima, 170 mm, FIT GRIP2, 15QRx110 BOOST, 51mm Offset
Shock: FOX FACTORY FLOAT DPX2, Trunnion Mount, EVOL, 3-Position Lever 185x55mm
Crank: Shimano XT 175mm, 34T
Pedals: Shimano XTR trail 
Shifter: E7000 11 speed, E7000 Mode 
Derailleur: Shimano XTR DI2 11 speed
Cassette: Shimano 11-speed XTR Cassette 11-40 w/ Wolf Tooth 45 cog
Chain: Shimano E-bike, 11 speed
Chain Guide: E-Thirteen Chain Guide
Saddle: WTB Silverado w/ Ti Rails
Seat post: Fox Factory Series Transfer, 31.6mm, 150mm travel w/Wolf Tooth I-Spec Lever
Handlebar: Shimano Pro Tharsis Trail Carbon Di2 31.8 20mmX 800mm
Stem: Shimano Pro Koryak Di2 31.8 400mmx 0 Degree 
Brakeset: Shimano XT 4-Piston Hydraulic Disc, 203mm Front and Rear
Headset: Cane Creek 40 Series, ZS44/EC49.40
Grips: ODI Ruffians
Wheelset: Front DT H1700 28X30mm, Rear DT H1700 27.5X35mm Stock
Tires: Front: 29X2.60, MINION DHF II, FOLDABLE, 120TPI, 3CMAXX TERRA/EXO/TR 
Rear: 27.5X2.8, MINION DHR II, FOLDABLE, 120TPI, 3CMAXX TERRA/EXO+/TR
Tubes: Cush-Core inserts
Travel (front/rear): 170mm / 155mm
Build Weight W/ Pedal: 49.64 pounds

Would like to see other peoples builds and thoughts.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

honkinunit said:


> A question: How easy is it to remove the battery? I store my bikes in an unheated building and in winter I need to remove the battery to charge it. (It is not good to charge an ebike battery at cold temperatures (or hot)).


Super easy, less than 10sec as long as you have the key!



Ridnw/bear said:


> I have not changed to the Shimano DI2 stuff and worry about wearing out the chain and cassette prematurely as it seems to shift very abruptly. It is difficult to shift without it doing it while the motor is delivering power. I heard that the DI2 stuff is integrated into the motor so that it tells the motor to decrease power when each shift occurs. Is that true?
> 
> My main issue is that I am very worried that I will not want to get back on my analog bike(Intense Primer) anymore. When I go into my garage to pick a bike, I have a hard time saying no to the Tazer.


I heard DI2 was supposed to let off the power, but if it does, I can't feel it. DI2 unfortunately is not a DIY install as it requires a call to Shimano and the Shimano tech links into the bike shop's computer and the handshake between esteps 8000 motor and DI2 is completed. Without this, DI2 will not work. Majority of the time it shifts smoothly into gear, but when it does clunk, it usually shifting into a harder gear. I've not done any adjustments to the DI2 since it was installed and I've had 3 different wheels and upgraded to XT cassette. I think this afternoon, I'll Google DI2 adjustment, perform and see if it's better tomorrow.


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

This is not a "Tuning" but E-Max will allow free toggle of the Cable shift to Di2. You will still need the SM-PCE02 Shimano computer interface.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

jprider said:


> Great review. I have had mine for a couple of months now. At 5' 10" I went with the medium and couldn't be happier with my choice. PNW tight switchbacks, steep up down transitions, fast flowing trails with long climbs to access all.
> I set mine up mostly the same with the following changes.
> 
> Frame: Tazer, Carbon Fiber,Medium, 155mm travel, 64.9 HTA
> ...


Nice build 
How's the 170mm fork feeling? Should have slacked it out somewhere around 64.5 degrees, but I bet the shorter fork offset helps? 
And you went with longer cranks 170mm?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

It is a little harder to keep the front end down on real steep punchy climbs. I have to sit on the nose of the seat. But the feel of the fork is awesome. 
On the crank arm length it is just what I am use to. I might go back to the 165 mm and see how I like it.
I never rode the bike stock. Set it up this way from the beginning.


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## dirtmann (Sep 6, 2015)

I demo'd some Tazers with with my teenage kids last week and thought it was fantastic.
I've been telling myself that I'd wait until an Ebike was a necessity for me due to age or injury but after riding one, I WILL have one in my garage before long.

After 40 years of mnt bikes and dirt bikes the two have come together. I really liked that I could carry speed uphill over obstacles that I would have normally gassed my legs or just too technical. What a blast.

Not only did it climb well, it handled well on the downhills too.

I tried all 3 power modes and even rode it uphill with the power off and surprisingly it was not as bad as I expected.

I used trail mode most often which keeps you going at a pretty good speed when climbing.

Boost mode was damn near too much especially on the tight stuff (almost scary)

Eco mode was sufficient on climbs but Trail mode made things fun.

My big concern is, will these be allowed on local trails or are will they be banned, leaving me nowhere to ride it in the SF Bay Area?


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

dirtmann said:


> I demo'd some Tazers with with my teenage kids last week and thought it was fantastic.
> I've been telling myself that I'd wait until an Ebike was a necessity for me due to age or injury but after riding one, I WILL have one in my garage before long.
> 
> After 40 years of mnt bikes and dirt bikes the two have come together. I really liked that I could carry speed uphill over obstacles that I would have normally gassed my legs or just too technical. What a blast.
> ...


Tell me about it! Jaxs bike shop let me have a 3 day demo & that was it, had to have one. My brother won't even try it, because he knows the same will happen.

Ask your local retailer about places near you and then double check the areas are open. Sometimes they want to make a sale and the areas are not truly legal, but not enforcing the no ebike policy.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

I got a Specialized Evo in December of last year and I have loved the bike. A buddy of mine got a Tazer right around the same timeframe and now I don't like riding with him because he's too fast on it. Now I'm REALLY looking into getting a Tazer as well, especially because they have the low key black/grey option instead of the yellow. The build seems very solid for the price considering the Levo at the similar price point has semi-budget suspension and components.
Here's a question for you guys, the 350 wheel has the star ratchet internals, have any of you upgraded the engagement to the 36 or 54 tooth ratchet? That is almost a necessity on normal bikes but I don't know how much difference it would make on an E-bike.


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

Good question. I understand that DT Swiss uses the 24 tooth ratchet because it's torque capacity is larger that the 36 or 54 tooth version. I have a 54 tooth on my Turner Flux and a 36 that I took off. I might try swapping it out but honestly have not found the need on the Tazer for quicker engagement. Worth I try


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I havent changed mine out. I agree that I havent found the need. As far as being faster on the Tazer, every review I could find on the Tazer said that the tazer was a very confidence inspiring ride. I concur. The slack head angle/ 29er front wheel combined with a steep seat tube angle and fat rear wheel feels spot on. I havent rode other ebikes, but I feel like a superhero on the DH while riding the Tazer. And it is very comfortable to climb on as well. Overall, I think Intense nailed the handling on this bike. I really like having the longer travel both front and rear. The suspension feels even deeper than 155/160mm travel bike.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

I’ve got 2 sets of wheels for my Tazer, the stock DT wheel set as a backup and Bontrager line pro carbon wheel set. The rear Bontrager has according to them 108degree engagement. Unfortunately I’ve broken the Bontrager twice, but besides the ratcheting freewheel noise they make, I really can't tell difference between them. I’ve got to agree with the others and say a faster engaging rear hub isn’t needed.


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## stiksandstones (Oct 7, 2004)

peterhenric said:


> I got a Specialized Evo in December of last year and I have loved the bike. A buddy of mine got a Tazer right around the same timeframe and now I don't like riding with him because he's too fast on it. Now I'm REALLY looking into getting a Tazer as well, especially because they have the low key black/grey option instead of the yellow. The build seems very solid for the price considering the Levo at the similar price point has semi-budget suspension and components.
> Here's a question for you guys, the 350 wheel has the star ratchet internals, have any of you upgraded the engagement to the 36 or 54 tooth ratchet? That is almost a necessity on normal bikes but I don't know how much difference it would make on an E-bike.


As an avid eMTB rider, this comment is concerning-about your buddy being faster than you and you wanna get a different bike to keep up. Buy a motorcycle then? how is your Levo getting left behind? something has to be broken?


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

stiksandstones said:


> As an avid eMTB rider, this comment is concerning-about your buddy being faster than you and you wanna get a different bike to keep up. Buy a motorcycle then? how is your Levo getting left behind? something has to be broken?


I don't have a Levo. I have an Evo.
I love biking with buddies but I don't like it when one of us (either of us) is considerably slower than the other. I don't like waiting and I don't like being waited on. I do love the idea of being able to cover a lot of distance in one day. Getting an E-bike isn't only because of my buddy being faster than me, that's just the excuse I'm using to get one.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Had a chance to ride the 19 Tazer Pro and an 18 Comp Carbon Levo (27.5” wheels) back to back and see how they compared. I’m aware that the 18 Comp Carbon Levo isn’t the most current model but I thought it would give me a half decent idea on how the 2 bikes compared. The trail was mostly rocky single track with some smooth sections. This is the first time I’ve ever ridden an e-bike so they both took some getting used to.
Jumping to the conclusion, the Tazer was superior in every way except how loud the engine is. The Levo was so quiet you probably wouldn’t be able to hear it as it rode by.
The suspension, drivetrain, and seat dropper were all fantastic.
My main complaint about both bikes was the power delivery while pedaling at a slow cadence. I would think that you would want the most power delivery when pedaling slowly as you try to get up to speed. Both bikes didn’t provide much power when trying to climb steep hills in a low gear. Power delivery at higher speed was more than sufficient.
I quickly came to realize that Ebikes don’t like to climb technical sections where you might need to stop pedaling to get over an obstacle. You really have to carry your speed into the obstacle because as soon as you stop pedaling, you really feel the weight. Neither of the bikes loved doing any drops that were more than 3-4 feet tall. You landed much harder and you could feel it.
I kind of wish that the Tazer had the ability to fit a 29” wheel in the rear. When going over rough terrain, it felt like the rear wheel kept trying to fall into the crevices instead of rolling over them. Maybe it is just the weight of the bike?
The Tazer definitely rolled better and gained speed quicker when starting to roll down hills even without pedaling. It felt like the bike was giving assist even when you weren’t pedaling. It was quite nice.

I plan on riding a buddies 19 Expert Levo to see how much the frame makes a difference. Unless the 19 is WORLDS better than the 18 and the Tazer, it is hard to justify the cost of a Levo. The Tazer comes with top quality parts at a significant discount compared to the Levo. It drives me insane that You can spend $8500 on the Levo and not get top level suspension, wheels, and dropper post. It’s almost a no-brainer to go with the Tazer. The biggest advantage the 19 Levo will have is the bigger battery and a cleaner look. It will still be about 2 pounds heavier than the Tazer. I don’t plan on going on 3+ hour rides where the battery life of the Tazer would be the biggest weakness so that isn’t a big deal.
What do you guys think?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

peterhenric said:


> Had a chance to ride the 19 Tazer Pro and an 18 Comp Carbon Levo (27.5" wheels) back to back and see how they compared. I'm aware that the 18 Comp Carbon Levo isn't the most current model but I thought it would give me a half decent idea on how the 2 bikes compared. The trail was mostly rocky single track with some smooth sections. This is the first time I've ever ridden an e-bike so they both took some getting used to.
> Jumping to the conclusion, the Tazer was superior in every way except how loud the engine is. The Levo was so quiet you probably wouldn't be able to hear it as it rode by.
> The suspension, drivetrain, and seat dropper were all fantastic.
> My main complaint about both bikes was the power delivery while pedaling at a slow cadence. I would think that you would want the most power delivery when pedaling slowly as you try to get up to speed. Both bikes didn't provide much power when trying to climb steep hills in a low gear. Power delivery at higher speed was more than sufficient.
> ...


I think the '19 Levo will blow you away. It's lighter than the Tazer, better proven suspension design from the stumpy. Quieter, longer range 700wh, more torque. And aesthetics are killer, not to mention the software apps like Blevo.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

peterhenric said:


> ...This is the first time I've ever ridden an e-bike so they both took some getting used to...
> My main complaint about both bikes was the power delivery...
> What do you guys think?


Sounds like you had fun, Peter! :thumbsup:
First impressions can be important, but I'd recommend more time riding ebikes, especially playing with the tuning, before reaching conclusions about motor power delivery.

Did you try different support levels, different peak power settings, and different acceleration rate settings? These all make a difference in power delivery.

Did you try varying your pedalling cadence to see how this affected power delvery? 
Higher cadences typically give smoother, and often more, power.

Can't speak for the Tazer as I haven't ridden one, but the Levo will push you up a long 25% grade and punch over obstacles I wouldn't consider on a regular bike.

I've had 2018 and 2019 Levos and don't find them to be all that different other than the option of the larger battery on the '19. How they're set up suspension, wheels, tires) is more important. This also applies to the Tazer.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

peterhenric said:


> Had a chance to ride the 19 Tazer Pro and an 18 Comp Carbon Levo (27.5" wheels) back to back and see how they compared. I'm aware that the 18 Comp Carbon Levo isn't the most current model but I thought it would give me a half decent idea on how the 2 bikes compared. The trail was mostly rocky single track with some smooth sections. This is the first time I've ever ridden an e-bike so they both took some getting used to.
> Jumping to the conclusion, the Tazer was superior in every way except how loud the engine is. The Levo was so quiet you probably wouldn't be able to hear it as it rode by.
> The suspension, drivetrain, and seat dropper were all fantastic.
> My main complaint about both bikes was the power delivery while pedaling at a slow cadence. I would think that you would want the most power delivery when pedaling slowly as you try to get up to speed. Both bikes didn't provide much power when trying to climb steep hills in a low gear. Power delivery at higher speed was more than sufficient.
> ...


Climbing is my fun. You would love the Yamaha 2017, instant power and low cadence power. Combined with 40 mm rims, a 2.8 x 27.5 Maxxis Rekon. All Ebikes are not equal just like all cars are not equal. It has no pedal assist and i do not miss it.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

33red said:


> It has no pedal assist and i do not miss it.


Thumb throttle? or how to you activate the power delivery?


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

vikb said:


> Thumb throttle? or how to you activate the power delivery?


Thanks for catching my mistake.I meant to write
no WALK assist.
So to be clear i have pedal assist, no throttle.


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

peterhenric said:


> Had a chance to ride the 19 Tazer Pro and an 18 Comp Carbon Levo (27.5" wheels) back to back and see how they compared.* I'm aware that the 18 Comp Carbon Levo isn't the most current model but I thought it would give me a half decent idea on how the 2 bikes compared.* The trail was mostly rocky single track with some smooth sections. This is the first time I've ever ridden an e-bike so they both took some getting used to..............


This statement would be incorrect. I have ridden the 18 and 19 levo'
s. It's like a different company made them as they are that different


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## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

peterhenric said:


> I plan on riding a buddies 19 Expert Levo to see how much the frame makes a difference. Unless the 19 is WORLDS better than the 18 and the Tazer, it is hard to justify the cost of a Levo. The Tazer comes with top quality parts at a significant discount compared to the Levo.* It drives me insane that You can spend $8500 on the Levo and not get top level suspension, wheels, and dropper post. It's almost a no-brainer to go with the Tazer.* The biggest advantage the 19 Levo will have is the bigger battery and a cleaner look. It will still be about 2 pounds heavier than the Tazer. I don't plan on going on 3+ hour rides where the battery life of the Tazer would be the biggest weakness so that isn't a big deal.
> What do you guys think?


One of my top picks right now is to get a $5k levo, replace the fork, shock, dropper and then go. So, it's around 6600 is a usable condition.

After that, it's the replacements when things break.

Then, there's the yt decoy. $7000 and you get all top of the line goodies and a nice full carbon frame


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

6,000$ US now is about 8,000$ Canadian.
Living in Quebec buying new there is 15% taxes added = 9,200$.
I would be lucky to sell it 4,000$ a year later so my cost = 5,200$
and 4 months it will be waiting, it is winter, snow fat season.
There is no way it makes any sense.
Haibike offers more value with Yamaha
same for Giant
Marin with Shimano
the Tazer and Specialized are just WAY over priced in my opinion.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

levity said:


> I've had 2018 and 2019 Levos and don't find them to be all that different other than the option of the larger battery on the '19. How they're set up suspension, wheels, tires) is more important. This also applies to the Tazer.





ziscwg said:


> This statement would be incorrect. I have ridden the 18 and 19 levo'
> s. It's like a different company made them as they are that different


I quote both of these to show how differently people can experience a bike. I'm not saying anything about either person, just think it's interesting.

In the end, I guess I just need to try them both myself and see how they feel and what suits my style and pocketbook best.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

peterhenric said:


> I quote both of these to show how differently people can experience a bike. I'm not saying anything about either person, just think it's interesting.
> 
> In the end, I guess I just need to try them both myself and see how they feel and what suits my style and pocketbook best.


Impressions are just that impressions. Being new to Ebikes i went thrue the learning curve. What i might have called a plus 80 days ago i might consider a negative and vice versa. For a person who likes to climb like me i focus on some aspects and other riders have their own focus. Most bikes are good, it is about matching the one that is great for us. That is why i like to buy used, i can resell the next month.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

*650 Miles later... Tazered*

mtbbiker (Craig), is that you?

I held off buying one hoping a frameset option would be made available.

Fast forward to March 2019. My wife hinted wanting to get back to riding again so I took the opportunity to demo the Tazer for two reasons: 1) make sure she actually wants one and 2) to make sure size medium would fit her (which coincidentally dove-tailed into the third reason- so I could ride it too). Whiz! Bang! Boom! Bought one at the end of March. Freaking most expensive bike I had to buy at one go as I've always built my own bike from frame sets. However, the components for the most part are bang on.

My (and technically in principle, my wife's) Tazer is size medium and for the most part still stock except for a few personal changes.

Swapped out the Intense recon riser bar for Renthal Fatbar 780. 
Swapped out stem to 55mm Truvativ Hozfellar
Took out the saddle. My skinny asian ass didn't gel with it and switched to a Tioga Spider Outland
Replaced the grips with ODI Troy Lee lock ons
SLX r der and shifter went to my parts bin straight out of the box for a SRAM XO1 rd and XX1 shifter respectively.
Eventually, swapped the 2.8 rear Minion DHR with 2.6 size. Not a fan of fat tires.

Overall, for a first year model eMTB, the Tazer is a well rounded attempt at the category. Jesus christ, the paint job is next level.

I'm not going to go into further details on the rest of the component highlights and little low lights as I believe, a lot of these factors come down to personal preference and specific riding style.

Overall, the bike handles great on the descents. The added weight makes braking bumps slightly disappear. I still ride my Tracer 275 analog bike half of the time on the same trails and I can tell the difference on the rough stuff (Tazer plows and deflects so much less). The Tazer is one stable and ground-hugging beast. It can fly and pop playfully as well as long as you carry the speed which is always on demand and is the vital key. I predominantly spend 90% of my ride time in ECO mode.

After 669 miles I noticed a few nuisance that I hope I could still rectify or at least confirm with other Tazer (or Shimano motor) users. Below are two of the striking ones:

*SHIMANO motor*
When coasting downhill and hitting square edged hits or general rough stuff, there seems to be rattle-like noise coming from the drivetrain area. I've padded every contact point there is with thick andsoft 3M mastic tape. I've also shortened my chain as much as I could get away it but the noise is still there. It drives me crazy. One user with a Shimano e8000 told me that the noise is more than likely coming from the motor "free play" and is normal. He demonstrated this theory by grabbing the crank and pulled on it fore and aft. There's that familiar noise as it engages the drive. I don't know. It's not the battery, not the battery cover (I taped it once to eliminate that potential noise source) and definitely nowhere in the conventional drive train components (checked the cassette for tightness). Bah! Maybe just wear ear plugs like Gwinn.

*Shock mount.* 
The trunion shock mount constantly creaks. Had to relube that area almost every week.

At just under 700 miles. I've had to change my stock chain at mile 650 as it stretched. Cogs are still good with the new chain. Checked the DT H1700 wheels and my god, the spokes are still tensioned to spec and rims run true and straight. I land sideways a LOT. Still happy with it but just wish my wife would ride it more.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

ozzer said:


> mtbbiker (Craig), is that you?
> 
> I held off buying one hoping a frameset option would be made available.
> 
> ...


Yes my friend, it's me Craig! Excellent review and dead on, including that noise that bugs you. I always thought of it a combination of several things: battery rattling, the 4 piston finned pads rattle and chain slap.

I've built Up my chain stay protection, added some insulation on battery and when my pads wear out will replace with non finned ones. Hopefully that will quite it down some. I was getting a squeak to and actually took apart all the pivots. All the pivots have these super thin black spacers between the bearing and frame. These black spacers all showed some sign of rubbing of the black coating off. I regreased and retorqued all the pivot points and dead silent now.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

Great posts from both of you. I agree with everything stated all the way down to the annoying rattle. Been trying the same solutions without any luck. I got my Tazer on June 3rd. I have left it mostly stock aside from some 800mm bars. Just went past 700 miles yesterday. After some steep climbing. I noticed the chain skipping in the 42t cog. I checked the chain and it read more than .75. I have a new cassette, chain coming tomorrow. I guess the only thing surprising is how fast I got to 700 miles. Wow! Riding it never gets old.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

Also, I decided to leave the Shimano stuff on the bike with the theory being that replacements are considerably cheaper than the Sram stuff. I hope this ends up being a good move. I did change out the shifter to a XT so that I could get the multi-release feature. There is a big improvement in feel as compared to the SLX shifter as well.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

mtbbiker said:


> Yes my friend, it's me Craig! Excellent review and dead on, including that noise that bugs you. I always thought of it a combination of several things: battery rattling, the 4 piston finned pads rattle and chain slap.
> 
> I've built Up my chain stay protection, added some insulation on battery and when my pads wear out will replace with non finned ones. Hopefully that will quite it down some. I was getting a squeak to and actually took apart all the pivots. All the pivots have these super thin black spacers between the bearing and frame. These black spacers all showed some sign of rubbing of the black coating off. I regreased and retorqued all the pivot points and dead silent now.


Word. 
As far as the noise, I've eliminated (trial and error and process of single elimination) every possible or perceived sources including the finned pads. However, it still seems to be coming from the BB/Motor area. I also recently noticed that the chain retention on the stock Shimano E8000 specific chainring is not as good as others. You could see it pop off of the top every so often. I'm not too familiar with the E8000 chainring spec yet and I hope there is an aftermarket fitment in place of the Shimano narrow wide system. I love the handling and everything about the Tazer... except for that freaking rattling/knocking near the BB/motor area. My Tracer 275 is dead silent on the same exact trails (at greer for instance).

As far as the creaking. I found it to be isolated with the trunion mount. Though I broken down the frame to every pivot regrease and retorque twice now, just singling out the regrease (contact surfaces between the shock mount surface and internal frame surfaces) of upper shock mounting always eliminated the creak. Another source of creak I discovered last week was with my dry Shimano 647 clipless pedals bushings. Easy rebuild and regrease quieted those.

Sidenote: I've also padded up the cavities between the upper and lower portion of the battery inside the pot belly storage. That wasn't the source but hell, I was in the process of elimination hahaha.

Let's get another eMTB mob ride soon.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

Ridnw/bear said:


> Great posts from both of you. I agree with everything stated all the way down to the annoying rattle. Been trying the same solutions without any luck. I got my Tazer on June 3rd. I have left it mostly stock aside from some 800mm bars. Just went past 700 miles yesterday. After some steep climbing. I noticed the chain skipping in the 42t cog. I checked the chain and it read more than .75. I have a new cassette, chain coming tomorrow. I guess the only thing surprising is how fast I got to 700 miles. Wow! Riding it never gets old.


Just as with regular bikes, check a chain checker tool handy in your tool box.
For eMTB, I was told check every 400-500 miles. If the chain stretched to .5, replace it and extend your cassette life. My ratio has always worked out to a 2 to 1 chain to cassette replacement.


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## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

The 2 reports of creaking are particularly disappointing to me. I have a Commencal Meta Power 275 I ride almost daily. Could not be happier with it but would prefer mixed wheel size and slightly longer reach of the Tazer and had my eye on a good deal to switch.

But I owned a Tracer for 4 years and suffered through far too many creak chasing/regreasing/pivot replacement episodes. It appears the Tazer uses the exact same cone/collet bearing system and thus the creaking noted comes as no surprise to me. Santa Cruz seems to be a little more successful with the cone/collet style but I don't think Intense ever got the design or tolerances to the same level of optimization.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I have not had any creaking on the Tazer. Just the weird rattle coming from the BB/ motor area. I have owned 14 Intense bikes since 1999 as well as other frames from other brands. Creaking in pivots is not just a issue with Intense. If you keep up with greasing the pivots, there isnt a problem. Also, I have stopped using a hose or water to clean my bikes. Rather, I wait for the dirt to dry and then dry brush it off then wipe down with a wet rag. This has all but eliminated creaks until the pivots need fresh grease. Dont let this stoip you from looking at the Tazer. Its a great ride!


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

864 miles and my Tazer makes no noise. Very quiet ride. I have greased all the pivot points so maybe thats why, or I'm too slow to make it rattle?  

I've done the following to mine;

Changed both tires to Rekons (2.6F and 2.8R)
Changed the bars to Enve high rise with Redmonkey Karv grips
Changed the shifter to XTR (shorter throw)
Bought another battery door which I drilled holes in for battery cooling
Switched out the shock to a DVO coil
Switched out the stock Fox wipers for Push wipers (and changed the fluids)
Installed new non-finned rear brake pads
New chain @ 855 miles

I certainly would have not problem buying this bike again. I really like how the faster it's pushed the better it handles. 

Oh, and ozzer, your ass ain't that skinny bro, which is odd for an Asian......


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## dodger (Feb 10, 2004)

Agree the problem isn't unique to Intense. As a used-to-be-engineer, the problem in my mind is the cone/collet pivot axle that has become so prevalent. manufacturers love it as it offer a neat and tidy packaging solution but it relies on impossible taper alignment and tolerances and allows over thrusting the bearings.

After I sold my tracer (for that reason) and got an Ibis HD4 with tried and true shoulder bolt style pivots not one creak.

I'm sure I'm the outlier but when you ride everyday your criteria becomes different than the 1x or 2x/week rider. The Tazer was super enticing for me but nothing is worse chasing creaks all the time.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

dodger said:


> The 2 reports of creaking are particularly disappointing to me. I have a Commencal Meta Power 275 I ride almost daily. Could not be happier with it but would prefer mixed wheel size and slightly longer reach of the Tazer and had my eye on a good deal to switch.
> 
> But I owned a Tracer for 4 years and suffered through far too many creak chasing/regreasing/pivot replacement episodes. It appears the Tazer uses the exact same cone/collet bearing system and thus the creaking noted comes as no surprise to me. Santa Cruz seems to be a little more successful with the cone/collet style but I don't think Intense ever got the design or tolerances to the same level of optimization.


I've owned so many intense frames over the last decade or so (including all generation of Tracers and ALL of their DH frame I raced religiously). Creaking was never a problem for me as far as their pivots and contact surfaces in any of their frame -even the early flexy models. The key to it is proper and routine maintenance. I'm anal and OCD when it comes to noise so I put in the detailed work and time to attend to every single potential noise source. I think my Tazer is settling in nicely. I will probably stop using loctite on the trunion mount and just use the good ol greasy to keep that area quiet once and for all.

As far the rattle from the motor/BB area, it's either the "free play" from the motor itself or maybe a better narrow-wide chain ring (if any other would fit the e8000 mount). The other eMTB's I tried with the same e8000 motor (BMC, Commencal and Pivot) have the same noise.

Otherwise, the Tazer is a solid performer and have a solid no non-sense package. I'm pretty happy and content. I encourage anyone to demo a Tazer or if you're in my area in Socal, I'd be happy to lend you mine for a run or two. It's game changer.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

Honestly, all bikes need maintenance. I’ve got close to 1,500 miles on the Tazer and those are almost all super hard miles! Took apart all pivots around 700 miles and not a squeak since. Love my Tazer! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I am really surprised that the Tazer hasn't been a more popular choice in the current ebike MTB market. I was waiting for Intense to release a ebike mainly because I was looking for a longer travel ebike than was presently on the market. I also like the geo on most of the offerings from Intense. Slack head angle, steep seat angle, low BB. When released, the tazer checked all the boxes for me. In my opinion, the tazer has better geo, more travel, and a better spec when it comes to the parts you really need. The YT Decoy is definitely a similar choice with maybe a better spec and a little cheaper. I cant imagine having any less travel. I really think that 160mm is a minimum amount of travel if you are riding anything chunky or rough. Especially at ebike speeds with ebike weight. 
The prego downtube must be more of a turn off than I would have thought. I have found it to be very useful. I have folded a tube and made a separate little CO2 cartridge kit that I can fit in front of the upper battery mount and a small flat tool kit with chain tool, tire levers that fits under and behind the lower, aft battery mount. Add on a water bottle cage and Im all set. I also like that I can carry a battery in a pack(which Ive only done once) for longer rides. Swapping batteries at the car for another few laps is also a good option and can be done quickly with just a key. And extra batteries are cheaper than most. Whats not to like here?


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

Ridnw/bear said:


> The prego downtube must be more of a turn off than I would have thought. I have found it to be very useful. I have folded a tube and made a separate little CO2 cartridge kit that I can fit in front of the upper battery mount and a small flat tool kit with chain tool, tire levers that fits under and behind the lower, aft battery mount. Add on a water bottle cage and Im all set. I also like that I can carry a battery in a pack(which Ive only done once) for longer rides. Swapping batteries at the car for another few laps is also a good option and can be done quickly with just a key. And extra batteries are cheaper than most. Whats not to like here?


This...

I've done the same exact thing stuffing extra supplies above and forward the battery inside the frame compartment. I dislike carrying stuff on me or a pack.

Just need to remember to carry the battery key with me though. Lol


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## creativefletch (Dec 1, 2014)

Awesome reviews! Tazer Pro pricing has been updated as of August 1st from $7,590 to $6,999


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

creativefletch said:


> Awesome reviews! Tazer Pro pricing has been updated as of August 1st from $7,590 to $6,999


Wow! Great deal! My last ebike ride, there was 3 Tazer's total in my group. I'm sure with that pricing, we'll be seeing more out there! Thanks for the update and I reviewed your profile (stalker) you work for Intense?


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## creativefletch (Dec 1, 2014)

mtbbiker said:


> Wow! Great deal! My last ebike ride, there was 3 Tazer's total in my group. I'm sure with that pricing, we'll be seeing more out there! Thanks for the update and I reviewed your profile (stalker) you work for Intense?


Not a stalker, I'm active in the Intense forum helping answer questions, and yes. This time of year is the best for Tazer rides. Can get in a quick 1 hour ride before dark when it's just under 90 degrees and get a full 3 runs in.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

creativefletch said:


> Not a stalker, I'm active in the Intense forum helping answer questions, and yes. This time of year is the best for Tazer rides. Can get in a quick 1 hour ride before dark when it's just under 90 degrees and get a full 3 runs in.


Sorry, I didn't mean you as a stalker! But me for checking out your profile 1st. Good to have you coming over to the dark side (ebike forum).

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

How do you guys store the bike when not in use? I’ve got a bike stand that I usually clamp to the frame of my EVO but I can’t find a spot to hang it. I don’t want to clamp to the seat post as that wouldn’t be good for the dropper and there isn’t enough room below that to clamp on.


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## creativefletch (Dec 1, 2014)

peterhenric said:


> How do you guys store the bike when not in use? I've got a bike stand that I usually clamp to the frame of my EVO but I can't find a spot to hang it. I don't want to clamp to the seat post as that wouldn't be good for the dropper and there isn't enough room below that to clamp on.


Most of my bikes I hang by the front wheel, due to the extra weight from an ebike I use a standard scorpion stand like this: https://www.feedbacksports.com/product/scorpion-2pc-black/


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Picked this guy up and took him out for the maiden voyage. Used the suggested settings for the front and rear suspension. Rear seemed fairly close but he front was WAY too stiff. It suggested 85 but I only used 2/3 of the travel. Bike felt good and is going to take some getting used to as far as shifting and such. Only complaint was there was a rattle that I can't quite figure out. Seemed to either be coming from the front derailleur area or the mud guard on the rear wheel. Very weird.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

peterhenric said:


> Picked this guy up and took him out for the maiden voyage. Used the suggested settings for the front and rear suspension. Rear seemed fairly close but he front was WAY too stiff. It suggested 85 but I only used 2/3 of the travel. Bike felt good and is going to take some getting used to as far as shifting and such. Only complaint was there was a rattle that I can't quite figure out. Seemed to either be coming from the front derailleur area or the mud guard on the rear wheel. Very weird.
> View attachment 1270681
> View attachment 1270683
> View attachment 1270685


Front fork suggested pressures I've also found to be way too stiff. The beauty of that fork is you can run way less air for small bump compliance and it you feel it's diving too much dial some HS and a little LS comp dampening into it. I'm running way less than what they suggest and have about 5mm left for those "Oh $hit" hits. Works way better!


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

This bike is top of the line but I wonder why they didn’t include the Shimano iSpec 2 adapter on the brake/shifter and some other adapter for the brake/dropper. You forget how nice it is to have a streamlined handlebar setup with only one clamp on each side. 
With the brake/dropper/gear selector on the left side, you’re always going to have to reach for something unless you consolidate the clamps onto one.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

Thanks for the review! I would love to have that color Tazer! I still get out almost everyday on mine and just smile the during the entire ride!


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Went on a pretty rugged ride with some very steep and technical trails and I have to say that I was impressed. I had my reservations about how it would descend but it did nothing but shine. Very impressed with how well it did.
I went on a different ride where it is a long fire road up and then semi-technical descent so I put the thing on boost mode and hauled up the trail. Their claim of "no shuttles required" was right. It was so much fun hauling up the trail. Almost felt like a dirt bike.

On a side note, it somehow developed a creak on the front end that I think is the head tube. Looking at the spacers under the stem, the top one has a gap/crack in it. Is anyone else's like that?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

My headset started to creak. Took it apart and cleaned it up. No creak now.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Fixed the creaking headset issue. Turns out the top spacer cracked open. I'm not sure how that even happened but at least the issue is fixed.

Does anyone else have what seems to be excessive chainslap? It's quite noisy. I'm used to an almost silent ride on my other bike so the slapping is quite annoying.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

peterhenric said:


> View attachment 1271581
> 
> 
> Fixed the creaking headset issue. Turns out the top spacer cracked open. I'm not sure how that even happened but at least the issue is fixed.
> ...


I can think of 2 things
- chain too long? Check with youtube help
- clutch should be ON


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

peterhenric said:


> View attachment 1271581
> 
> 
> Fixed the creaking headset issue. Turns out the top spacer cracked open. I'm not sure how that even happened but at least the issue is fixed.
> ...


What 33red said about derailuer clutch on and I always layer up my rear drive swing arm and build it up with ridges.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

mtbbiker said:


> What 33red said about derailuer clutch on and I always layer up my rear drive swing arm and build it up with ridges.
> View attachment 1271673


What was your process for building up the ridges? Made it look just like the new Stumpjumper guard.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

peterhenric said:


> What was your process for building up the ridges? Made it look just like the new Stumpjumper guard.


Yes, used the new chain stay protectors out there as a guide and this Scotch 2228 moisture sealing electrical tape. Most hardware stores carry it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

If the Tazer had a 700wh battery Id have one. Does anyone know what they are changing for 2020?

Has anyone bought a 2nd battery? Our climbs consist of 4000-5000 ft vert to get to the top of the mountains. How much are they and how heavy?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I have 2 batteries. I can climb close to 4000 ft. on one battery. Seems like if I climb 4K' then I will get about 15-22 miles out of one battery(Trail mode in medium). I havent weighed a battery but I have packed it with me on a couple rides. Its not lite, but it's not that bad to carry. Most of the riding that we have here in the PNW, consists of climbing about 3000 - 3500' and about 20 miles, so having one battery in the truck for a second lap makes for a really great, long day of riding. I bought my extra battery from Intense for $450. 
KNTR - Depending on the distance that you need to cover while at the same time climbing 4-5K', you would likely need to run Eco mode for some of the climb to complete your ride on one battery. I have found that I need a smaller battery more often than a larger one.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I recently changed my drivetrain on my Tazer to the new 12 speed Shimano XT stuff. 10-51 cassette. I had seen some reviews that stated that the new Hyperglide + stuff will work better with more chain tension thus being great for ebikes. As a diehard Shimano guy who switched to Sram in 2012 because Shimano refused at the time to go with a 1X system, I am very impressed with the new 12 speed stuff. Shifting is much smoother and much less harsh on the ebike. I highly recommend the upgrade especially if you have a worn out drive train and need to replace anyway.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

Ridnw/bear said:


> I recently changed my drivetrain on my Tazer to the new 12 speed Shimano XT stuff. 10-51 cassette. I had seen some reviews that stated that the new Hyperglide + stuff will work better with more chain tension thus being great for ebikes. As a diehard Shimano guy who switched to Sram in 2012 because Shimano refused at the time to go with a 1X system, I am very impressed with the new 12 speed stuff. Shifting is much smoother and much less harsh on the ebike. I highly recommend the upgrade especially if you have a worn out drive train and need to replace anyway.


How much for a chain? for a cassette?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

Retail for a XT chain was $41 US and the XT cassette was $160. I plan to get a SLX cassette when this one fails. A SLX cassette is $99. I usually wear out the biggest cog first. I have found that I dont use the 46T or the 51T all that much. I hope this translates to a longer life for the cassette if I change the chain at .50.

Edit: Shimano doesn't sell a 34T 12 speed chainring that has a 50mm chainline spider. I had to use the stock spider with a Shimano Steps SM CRE80-12-B. 

Also, DT Swiss has a steel freehub body listed on their website but it doesn't appear to be available in the USA. So I am using their alloy one instead. I will report back as to whether or not the alloy freehub body is handling the increased load. DT Swiss tech support said that the alloy one will work just fine but I find it strange that DT Swiss has a steel one listed if there was not a need for one.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

33red said:


> How much for a chain? for a cassette?


Quick look on Amazon has $100 for cassette, $60 for shifter, and $75 for derailleur.

Ridnw, did you go with a bigger front sprocket to get a little more top end since you've got the extra granny gear now?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

Keep in mind that you will need the entire XT 12 speed system in order to make it work. That includes the front chainring, shifter, rear derailer, chain, micro-spline freehub body and cassette.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I am still using the 34T front chain ring. My theory is that the motor cuts out at 18 mph anyway. Top end speed is pretty hard to achieve.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

peterhenric said:


> Quick look on Amazon has $100 for cassette, $60 for shifter, and $75 for derailleur.
> 
> These prices seem like prices for the 11 speed stuff. I cant find the same prices for the new 12 speed stuff.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

Ridnw/bear said:


> peterhenric said:
> 
> 
> > Quick look on Amazon has $100 for cassette, $60 for shifter, and $75 for derailleur.
> ...


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

33red said:


> Ridnw/bear said:
> 
> 
> > Ya 11 S or fake is my guess.
> ...


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

peterhenric said:


> 33red said:
> 
> 
> > These are 12 speed but just realized they are SLX, not XT except for the shifter.
> ...


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

mtbbiker said:


> View attachment 1271673


Took a page out of your book and tried my own. Will see this weekend how it feels and holds up.


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

Can someone please post some pics of the grey Tazer?


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

kntr said:


> Can someone please post some pics of the grey Tazer?


I'd be glad to. Just a few photos from my garage this morning.


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

How loud is the shimano motor compared to the Specialized? I wish Intense would come out with a 700wh or more battery.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

kntr said:


> How loud is the shimano motor compared to the Specialized? I wish Intense would come out with a 700wh or more battery.


The Specialized motor is almost silent. The Tazer motor is noisy in comparison but it isn't THAT loud.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

^Agree, I own both


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## highroad 2 (Jan 24, 2017)

I want;

Quiet
700wh
180mm travel
climb like Fezzari says their wire peak does

I hope the 2020 Kenevo or some other bike deliver my wishes


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

highroad 2 said:


> I want;
> 
> Quiet
> 700wh
> ...


The 2020 Kenevo certainly could check a lot of those boxes. Out of curiosity, do you want to do long rides on Boost with that battery or REALLY long rides on Eco or just not have to charge it every/every other time you ride?


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

Oddly enough I would like the 418wh Shimano battery for the shorter ride days. Lighter weight. I have extra batteries so long or steeper rides are not a problem. I love the quick change battery. I believe it is a better option than a big.heavier battery.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

jprider said:


> Oddly enough I would like the 418wh Shimano battery for the shorter ride days. Lighter weight. I have extra batteries so long or steeper rides are not a problem. I love the quick change battery. I believe it is a better option than a big.heavier battery.


And you live near the trails after 2.5 hrs you could do the exchange? Or you would pass at the parking lot?


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

jprider said:


> Oddly enough I would like the 418wh Shimano battery for the shorter ride days. Lighter weight. I have extra batteries so long or steeper rides are not a problem. I love the quick change battery. I believe it is a better option than a big.heavier battery.


I think your on to something! Most of my rides 80% are about 1.5 to 2hrs long and I use about 2 to 3 bars. 504wh covers the rest and only a few times I'd wish for more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rmac (Oct 26, 2004)

ozzer said:


> *Shock mount.*
> The trunion shock mount constantly creaks. Had to relube that area almost every week.


Shock mount creak is a common Ibis problem remedied with silicone tape where the shock mount rubs against the shock. I have used two types of tape with success: plain old (thin) plumbers tape (that you would wrap around plumbing fixtures screw threads). Also used Stan's rim tape. There's not much room to get the tape in there on the Ibis shock mount and I would assume you would have to deflate the shock and take it off it to get the tape in the right places on the Intense. No guarantees but worth trying because we all HATE creaks!


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## jprider (May 24, 2009)

I have 2) 504ah batteries, more than enough, either singly or both. But on the short rides why carry more than required. Then I checked actual weight, 2.55 kg vs 2.9 kg. I would have thought there was a bigger weight difference. But one pound up high is noticeable.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

You don't need a steel free hub (driver), just ride the aluminum
driver and stop worrying about it.

FYI, if you're going to run Shimano 12sp you will need a microdrive driver, SRAM 12sp is an XD driver.



Ridnw/bear said:


> Retail for a XT chain was $41 US and the XT cassette was $160. I plan to get a SLX cassette when this one fails. A SLX cassette is $99. I usually wear out the biggest cog first. I have found that I dont use the 46T or the 51T all that much. I hope this translates to a longer life for the cassette if I change the chain at .50.
> 
> Edit: Shimano doesn't sell a 34T 12 speed chainring that has a 50mm chainline spider. I had to use the stock spider with a Shimano Steps SM CRE80-12-B.
> 
> Also, DT Swiss has a steel freehub body listed on their website but it doesn't appear to be available in the USA. So I am using their alloy one instead. I will report back as to whether or not the alloy freehub body is handling the increased load. DT Swiss tech support said that the alloy one will work just fine but I find it strange that DT Swiss has a steel one listed if there was not a need for one.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

So I did the "Chain Stay Mod" and put that tape on there to try and minimize chain slap. The rattling that I was hearing is still there so I started to wonder if it isn't the chain guide that is causing the noise? It seems to move a little bit when pressed. Other idea was the rear fender but I think that is less likely as it would be hitting up against a rubber tire and that doesn't sound right. Has anyone removed their chain guide? The rattling occurs regardless of if I'm in low or high gear so I don't think it is the chain hitting the underside of the chainstay.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I'm guessing that the rattle is the same rattle that we all were discussing earlier in this thread. I think it is coming from the Shimano motor. If you wiggle the crank arms laterally, you will hear a rattle coming from the motor area. I hear it more when coasting than when pedaling.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Has anyone had issues with nuts/bolts coming loose? My buddy has a Tazer and he isn't the best at maintenance so it wasn't a surprise when he had some random bolts coming loose on the bike. I went through my Tazer and torqued everything down and one of the bolts near the rear triangle worked its way loose. The bolt itself had factory installed loctite on there but that obviously didn't work. I installed my own and then torqued it down. Will see how it holds. 
Is this an issue for anyone else?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

the forward pivot on the lower link has come loose a few times on my but that is it. I have also heard of the aft motor mounts coming loose but mine have stayed tight.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

peterhenric said:


> Has anyone had issues with nuts/bolts coming loose? My buddy has a Tazer and he isn't the best at maintenance so it wasn't a surprise when he had some random bolts coming loose on the bike. I went through my Tazer and torqued everything down and one of the bolts near the rear triangle worked its way loose. The bolt itself had factory installed loctite on there but that obviously didn't work. I installed my own and then torqued it down. Will see how it holds.
> Is this an issue for anyone else?


I had some bolts come loose as well. I try to put a wrench on every bolt at least once a month. Also a good tip, barely raise the bike up from the seat and put it down and repeat. Usually anything loose in the shock/pivot areas you'll be able to fell it.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Has anyone had an issue with the battery charger not wanting to stay "connected" to the battery? Twice now I took the battery out of the bike, plugged in the charger, the light turned green then I walked away. Came back the next day and the battery didn't charge. Then I plugged it back in and turned the battery over so the weight of the battery was holding the charger in place and it worked just fine. My buddy has had the same issue with his. He said to use some dielectric grease on the charger to help it slide in better. Any thoughts?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I have not had this issue at all. I guessing you already did this but if not, make sure that all of the metal tabs the go into the charger cord are not bent and are going straight into the slots of the charging cord.


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

peterhenric said:


> Has anyone had an issue with the battery charger not wanting to stay "connected" to the battery? Twice now I took the battery out of the bike, plugged in the charger, the light turned green then I walked away. Came back the next day and the battery didn't charge. Then I plugged it back in and turned the battery over so the weight of the battery was holding the charger in place and it worked just fine. My buddy has had the same issue with his. He said to use some dielectric grease on the charger to help it slide in better. Any thoughts?


I had that happen to me one time, plugged the charger in, saw the light on and next morning the bike was not fully charged. Now I make sure the plug is fully seated and I haven't had a problem since.


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## peterhenric (Jan 31, 2014)

Been a while since anything was posted in here so I thought I'd bump it with some new info.
First, the issue with the battery not charging was fixed with a little bit of dielectric grease on the plug. Haven't had any issues since then.
Also, Intense released an "expert" level build of this bike. A little more entry level build but still seems pretty solid.
I have been so happy with my Tazer. It's just amazing.


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

I also see that the Extra Larges are now available. The Expert build has the E7000 motor. Parts look fine but I would want the bigger motor. 
I also am still loving my tazer. It has been trouble free with 1500 miles on it so far.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

Hello, Tazer owners. Has anyone tried or does anyone know of any Shimano E8000-specific guide mount that allows running a full on DH guide (with the typical top guide and a lower roller/pulley)? I would like to maintain "chain wrap" on my chain ring at all times.


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## timatxds (Sep 25, 2007)

Electrical problems at 200 miles


Hi all my Intense Tazer ebike has 200 miles on it and whenever I hit a decent size bump the electronics shut off and the bike powers down and i need to restart it. My guess is a battery connection???????

Secondly (probably the harder one to fix) I never received the keys to the bike from the shop! I called intense but the keys are specific to the bike and they don't have a way to know which key goes to my bike.

Im not ready to take a drill/void my warranty to my new $7000 bike but it also sucks just having it sit there.

Any thoughts ideas or similar experiences?

By the way when it works this bike kicks ass, super nimble, and responsive.


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## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

timatxds said:


> Electrical problems at 200 miles
> 
> Hi all my Intense Tazer ebike has 200 miles on it and whenever I hit a decent size bump the electronics shut off and the bike powers down and i need to restart it. My guess is a battery connection???????
> 
> ...


There are a few so called ebikes that are just not ready. At 5$ that is life. At that price is return for full $$$ back.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

Yo, Tazers. These reports are awesome. I'm stoked about possibly picking one of these up. Any small size Tazer riders had luck fitting a coil shock?


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## Ridnw/bear (Jul 11, 2005)

myitch said:


> Yo, Tazers. These reports are awesome. I'm stoked about possibly picking one of these up. Any small size Tazer riders had luck fitting a coil shock?


Struggling to fit a 550 coil spring on a large. I dont think it will fit on a small.


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## myitch (Jan 25, 2004)

Ridnw/bear said:


> Struggling to fit a 550 coil spring on a large. I dont think it will fit on a small.


Yeah, a tech at Intense said no go on a small. I'd think a large could fit but if you're not having luck, a small definitely won't fit. Shucks


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## MatJStubbs (Jul 11, 2020)

*Rattles on a Tazer*

I think my rattle is the battery. I cut an old tube to 150 mm, keeping the valve and sealed the ends. I secured it in the frame under the battery with adhesive velcro and add 20 pumps with the shock pump and bravo! Take care not to over inflate as it deforms the cavity and the lid will not fit.

It creaks occasionally too :madmax: but stops before I can discover the source. Awesome bike.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

MatJStubbs said:


> I think my rattle is the battery. I cut an old tube to 150 mm, keeping the valve and sealed the ends. I secured it in the frame under the battery with adhesive velcro and add 20 pumps with the shock pump and bravo! Take care not to over inflate as it deforms the cavity and the lid will not fit.
> 
> It creaks occasionally too :madmax: but stops before I can discover the source. Awesome bike.


Got a photo of this "battery cavity bladder" to share?


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## MatJStubbs (Jul 11, 2020)

*Intence Tazer - battery rattle solution*










Here is the bladder. The ends are approx 8mm aluminium pipe with to 
20% skimmed off with an angle grinder. The tip piece need to be pressed or hammered flat to fit under the battery. The tube is secured with adhesive Velcro to stop it moving when the battery is installed. About 20 pumps with the shock pump is all that is required to hold the battery secure. Take care not to over-inflate as it will deform the frame.Not much pressure is required to secure the battery.


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## ozzer (Jul 2, 2004)

MatJStubbs said:


> Here is the bladder. The ends are approx 8mm aluminium pipe with to
> 20% skimmed off with an angle grinder. The tip piece need to be pressed or hammered flat to fit under the battery. The tube is secured with adhesive Velcro to stop it moving when the battery is installed. About 20 pumps with the shock pump is all that is required to hold the battery secure. Take care not to over-inflate as it will deform the frame.Not much pressure is required to secure the battery.


Thank you. 
I knew of this probably issue and just used a foam wedged under the battery including the internal side of the cavity. I will just try expanding bladder and see if there's improvement.


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