# Quiet chain guides



## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

Hi, In the market for a quiet chain guide.

I made one that works, but it's really loud.



All I hear ins TING! TING!

I was thinking about this, but the reviews say it's loud and falls apart.

MRP
MiniG2 SL Guide 32-36T BB Mount










I heard the Straight Line silent guide is good, but they don't make one for a BB mount.

Any suggestions would be great for my BB cup mount application.

Thanks.


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

MRP G2 is fine. Any new decent chain guide these days is going to be super reliable and quiet. If you want something super trick, check out csixx


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## lelebebbel (Jan 31, 2005)

Gamut p20 or p30 are reasonably light, affordable and quiet. I have had my p20 on 4 different bikes, you can get them with bb, iscg and iscg05 plates.


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## rav400 (Jun 25, 2010)

The silent guide is the most quiet chain guide I have used. I've had a couple e13 SRS+ systems that have worked but been a loud. Get one of these adapters and a silent guide and be done with it:

e*thirteen by The Hive ISCG'05 Adaptor Plate - AEBike.com


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## TheTwanksta (Feb 26, 2011)

My MRP Mini Lopes is pretty much dead silent. Only time I can hear it is when Im off the bike to luve the chain, but I cant hear it while pedaling on the trails. Works great so far!


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## Bordershy (Jan 29, 2004)

Your "Bash Sandwich" should be very quiet. It's probability rubbing on your homemade granny plate because your using a chainring made for a triple/double. Buy/trade for a ring made for a single speed or sometimes called a DH chainring. This will center the ring between the two bashes & will silence the noise.


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks for the input.

My home made unit makes no noise when pedaling, It's when I'm ripping downhill. 

The noise is not a rubbing noise, it's the chain whipping and slapping the top of my plate.


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## Bordershy (Jan 29, 2004)

Ok,then you need some tension on your chain. Try a stinger. Also try a rear derailleur that has a stiffer return.

Not sure you'll find anything totally silent unless you ditch the chain or go single speed.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

KAZU said:


> MRP
> MiniG2 SL Guide 32-36T BB Mount


Howdy, here's another G2 SL review to consider.

Sounds like the reviewers on this site had poorly setup guides based on their accounts. That coupled with the use of unapproved chainlube could definitely sour your experience with the product.

We alo make the S4 guide, which is what I prefer for trail riding, it's a little quieter (especially at both extremes of the cassette).

(BTW, the Mini G2 SL pictured in your OP is actually the "medium-angle" guide, not the standard version. The "medium-angle" is designed for bikes with dropped chainstays (like VPP bikes) that have difficulty fitting standard guides.)

Cheers


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

KAZU said:


> I was thinking about this, but the reviews say it's loud and falls apart.
> 
> MRP
> MiniG2 SL Guide 32-36T BB Mount
> ...


Yeah... I have G2 and G2 minis on my dh/trail bikes and would not go with MRP. The lower guide needs some major help, the design does not work that well for a few different reasons. I also taco'ed the taco on my full size G2 on the dh bike, it folded over sideways.

I would go with the straitline silent guide because it is 7075 Aluminum and doesn't have a lower roller. Just get an iscg adapter plate.


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## Jason B (Aug 15, 2008)

I have nothing but good things to say about my MRP G2 mini.


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## staikeinthahood (Oct 8, 2008)

My MRP G2 (not SL) makes a bit of noise because the chain slaps on the lower part of the upper guide. And yes, it's setup correctly. But I don't notice it while riding, just if I lift the bike up and drop it to the ground. The E.13 LG1 I had was dead silent (before it got smashed though).


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy, here's another G2 SL review to consider.
> 
> Sounds like the reviewers on this site had poorly setup guides based on their accounts. That coupled with the use of unapproved chainlube could definitely sour your experience with the product.
> 
> ...


Hi this is my bike before I ditched the front derailer and granny gear.



So I do have a VPP good to know that there are different models.

My rear derailer is a Saint 9 speed.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

staikeinthahood said:


> My MRP G2 (not SL) makes a bit of noise because the chain slaps on the lower part of the upper guide. And yes, it's setup correctly. But I don't notice it while riding, just if I lift the bike up and drop it to the ground. The E.13 LG1 I had was dead silent (before it got smashed though).


Some folks install o-rings on the tail of their upper guides to quiet that noise. A tiny snippet of rubber hose or pneumatic hose works too. The OD of that part of the guide is about 12mm. :thumbsup:


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

Noah,

Is the S4 compatible with Stylo cranks as well as Saint cranks? 

I have Stylo now and I'm getting the Saints.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

KAZU said:


> Noah,
> 
> Is the S4 compatible with Stylo cranks as well as Saint cranks?
> 
> I have Stylo now and I'm getting the Saints.


Yes, works with both.


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## staikeinthahood (Oct 8, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Some folks install o-rings on the tail of their upper guides to quiet that noise. A tiny snippet of rubber hose or pneumatic hose works too. The OD of that part of the guide is about 12mm. :thumbsup:


Nice, thanks!


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

I'm pretty sure that is a bad idea running a boxxer on your nomad. It will void the warranty and put stress on the frame where it shouldn't be, which equals cracking of the frame, i would imagine near the head tube. you need to lower that fork or get a proper fork for that frame. just a heads up


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## lelebebbel (Jan 31, 2005)

The Nomad is approved for 180mm forks and there is no specific dual crown restriction. 
A 180mm singlecrown like a Totem or Fox 180 has the same, or even slightly taller axle to crown height as a boxxer at 200mm (about 565mm). So while SC could in theory say you've voided the warranty, the fork itself will not put any stress on the frame that it wasn't designed for and won't cause it to crack.


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## tuumbaq (Oct 6, 2005)

lelebebbel said:


> The Nomad is approved for 180mm forks and there is no specific dual crown restriction.
> A 180mm singlecrown like a Totem or Fox 180 has the same, or even slightly taller axle to crown height as a boxxer at 200mm (about 565mm). So while SC could in theory say you've voided the warranty, the fork itself will not put any stress on the frame that it wasn't designed for and won't cause it to crack.


:madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:

The AC is completely irrelevant to this matter.A DC fork ( BEING A DUAL CROWN) puts WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more stress on your headtube than a SC, therefore your risk of snapping it is far greater than with a regular SC...:yikes::yikes::yikes:


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## Jimba (Aug 1, 2007)

How does a DC fork cause way more stress than a SC fork? please explain.


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## Jason B (Aug 15, 2008)

Jimba said:


> How does a DC fork cause way more stress than a SC fork? please explain.


Someone asked about putting a DC fork on a Transition bike which was designed for a SC fork and in a nutshell Transition said ......



> Because the dual crown braces the headtube on both the top and bottom of the frame, a lot of stress that is normally absorbed by the flex in a single crown is forced directly into the headtube junction and this frame wasn't designed to take that type of load.


That was the answer for that bike anyway (Syren). I have no idea if that translates to a Nomad or not but it is an example of an instance where it can't be done.


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## lelebebbel (Jan 31, 2005)

tuumbaq said:


> :madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:
> 
> The AC is completely irrelevant to this matter.A DC fork ( BEING A DUAL CROWN) puts WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more stress on your headtube than a SC, therefore your risk of snapping it is far greater than with a regular SC...:yikes::yikes::yikes:


1. The axle to crown height is NOT irrelevant. It determines the leverage, and thus the force on the headtube

2. a DC fork will stress the headtube in a slightly different way, and some manufacturers have decided that they need to stop people from putting DCs on some frames, but (as I specifically pointed out in my post above, because I knew someone would bring this up) *Santa Cruz does NOT*.
The only restriction for the Nomad is "180mm fork" which means that you could run many different DC forks on the Nomad without hurting your warranty, including the Boxxer Ride, White Bros, and basically any other DC fork that can be travelled to 180mm or less (any Boxxer, Fox 40, Dorado etc). Even the legendary 178mm Boxxer.

So no, his headtube is not going to snap off and he is not going to die, and the world will not end on May 21st.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

lelebebbel said:


> 1. The axle to crown height is NOT irrelevant. It determines the leverage, and thus the force on the headtube
> 
> 2. a DC fork will stress the headtube in a slightly different way...


I think he means the a to c is the same on a 180 sc vs most 200mm dc forks.

A dc fork has a longer lever arm to the top crown, and loads the headtube from both the top and bottom, putting more stress on the headtube junction.

So, a dc fork with the same a to c will put more stress on the ht, but a dc lowered to 180 will be about 20mm shorter than a sc, making up for the increased stress to some degree.

For me, the decision would come down to what a to c I want... a dc fork can be shorter for the same amount of travel. This could be an advantage, or not, depending on the frame.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

I have the MRP G2 mini.....never hear it...and it has held up


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## Maverick05 (Jan 24, 2011)

I've run e13/LG1/+s SRSs MRP G2s /mini Gs and Gamut, all fine to some point,

I recently changed my MRP G2 for a Straitlne silent guide though after trying one out on another bike and was blown away by how simple and silent it was and literally no drag, it defies belief.

e13 and MRP have cost me heaps for little bits of plastic that have cracked which I didn't mind but the replacement cost did ridiculous for such small parts, still good guides, just overly expensive and some parts could be better, the bolts on MRPs could be better quality for example, especially for the cost of the over all product, just something that could be improved, everyone to there own, I'm not here to bash those companies they make a great products but also have allot of marketing behind them,

But from now every bike I run will have a Straitline silent guide,, pure quality, simple, it works flawlessly, better chain line and so simple to install, even down to the spacers they provide pure class without the price tag and pure quality, the bash doesn't hang up either being alloy something I was a little worried about but I tried to bottom it on a few drops I normally do by rolling over them no issue.

Also I got some runs in some mud yesterday and usually this is where guides with rollers you start to notice some drag noise, not with the Straitline, still smooth and silent and drag less like still being in the dry.

This guide is the best I've used period..


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

So Far I'm leaning toward the straightline unit, since it seems to be the most rugged, yet lightweight option. 

Since I will be mounting it via BB cup I feel that I need to consider movement. I can only get is as tight as the cup will let me and if the bash guard is a part of it like the G2 is then there would be even more concern. 

which leaves me with the MRP S4 or the SL silent guide. 

Does anybody know if the stylo crank and the saint crank ar the same bolt pattern or does the bash guard need to be compatible?




To the second point about the double crown setup on my Nomad. I'm not worried about extra stree on the 1.5" headtube. 

Because:

1) The headset is "supposed to" be the fuse, as in it's should go before the head tube.

2) The Boxxer is way better at absorbing the bumps then my revelation or my talas, it's way squishier.

3) I'm not a good enough rider to put that much stress on the bike, plus I'm only 150lbs. 

4) I have full faith in my Nomad that it can take it, if it fails then I will get a burlier bike, right after I ***** about it on the internet.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

KAZU said:


> Does anybody know if the stylo crank and the saint crank ar the same bolt pattern or does the bash guard need to be compatible?


Straitline makes a guide specific to the Saint cranks, the mounting tabs are larger on the Saints.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

KAZU said:


> So Far I'm leaning toward the straightline unit, since it seems to be the most rugged, yet lightweight option.
> 
> Since I will be mounting it via BB cup I feel that I need to consider movement. I can only get is as tight as the cup will let me and if the bash guard is a part of it like the G2 is then there would be even more concern.
> 
> ...


BB mounting: Ive ran several guides over the years and never had one move, even if it did you could always knock it back to alignment with a rock. Ive done this on some of my friends bikes, with both BB and ISCG guides. Point is I wouldnt be concerned.

Stylo and Saint use same bolt pattern, 64/104, however the Saint usually requires a special bash, since the crank arm is wider, so that is something you want to keep in mind. I'm sure if you got the Saint version you could run it on both cranks.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

KAZU said:


> which leaves me with the MRP S4 or the SL silent guide.
> 
> Does anybody know if the stylo crank and the saint crank ar the same bolt pattern or does the bash guard need to be compatible?


Our bashguards (included with the S4 guide) come with chainring bolts that feature a thin washer. Basically you use the washer if you don't have Saint, you don't if you do. :thumbsup:


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## Thor Lord of Thunder (Jun 6, 2010)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> I have the MRP G2 mini.....never hear it...and it has held up


Ditto....take your time setting it up....when I got mine positioned correctly it was (and still is) smooth as butter. Actually surprised me how quiet the chain glides through....zero noise.


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## Brother Lu (Jan 26, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> Our bashguards (included with the S4 guide) come with chainring bolts that feature a thin washer. Basically you use the washer if you don't have Saint, you don't if you do. :thumbsup:


Hi Noah.How do you think the s4 will work on the last gen aluminum v-10.I've always liked the mrp guides but this bike has a lot of travel and things can get noisy back there.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brother Lu said:


> Hi Noah.How do you think the s4 will work on the last gen aluminum v-10.I've always liked the mrp guides but this bike has a lot of travel and things can get noisy back there.


I had the S4 on my Driver 8 all season and it worked like a charm - never dropped a chain. Being that the rollers are polyurethane, the noise noticeably muted compared to plastic guides. That's not to bag on our G2 series of guides at all, but they're designed to be a "race" oriented guide with an emphasis on weight and reduction of moving parts. Whereas the S4 is focused on durability and bombproof reliability. They're only about 40 grams apart anymore anyway.


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## KAZU (Aug 10, 2011)

Since I didn't see anybody from Straight line talking up their stuff, which I'm sure is just fine, I thought I would give MRP a try. I was settled on the S4, however, by chance, I walked into a bike store that unfortunately was going out of business.

Fortunate for me they had all their merchandise wicked cheap. I got a bunch of stuff including the G2.

I thought for the price I got it for might as well give it a shot, maybe I'll like it.

I have five days on it and for me it was a pretty hard five days on it.



The bad:

First, I was not impressed with the finish of the product the machined edges are really sharp, like cut you open sharp, I do quite a bit of machining and that bothers me, just get the rounded bit for the extra $50 and make it smooth.

Second, the composite looks and feels really brittle. If they used a softer compound it would do wonders for their product. Spend the extra money on the plastic, with nylotron you would have a completely silent and self lubricating product. This is the part that they need to focus on.

The plastic has grind marks on it to smooth out the injection site. If they used UHMW or delrin or nylatron they can fire the guy that does the grinding and make up the cost by replacing him with a guy with cutters.

The good:

Last week did two days of XC with it installed, worked flawlessly.

On the bike stand in from the middle gear to the highest gear it rubs the upper chain retainer and it makes noise.

On the trail I couldn't hear it over my awesomeness.

No really it either blends with the load on the gears or the chain being tight and under load makes a difference.

This weekend I did 3 days of lift riding and it was moist out, not raining but sloppy from the snow melt off.

The MRP G2 worked great.

I have no complaints about it's performance. I did install the orings like suggested and the only time I could hear it was in the super rocky sections where I assume the chain is slapping the top of the top guide.

I did the biggest drop I've ever done this weekend and the chain stayed on and I didn't hear it, but I probably didn't hear it over the terror I was experiencing.

It cleared the mud and was not louder than any of my other components on the bike.



To summarize:

So far I'm really happy with it, but what worries me is that I never really smacked it off of anything going at speed. There is nothing thus far that indicated the product will fail, but only time will tell. So far I recommend it.


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