# ~1000 lumens helmet mounted



## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*2x Cree / 4x Seoul*


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## Locoman (Jan 12, 2004)

Wow, nice job!

But do you find yourself reluctantly looking upwards with the batteries mounted on the helmet like that?


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Wowser....nice

Aren't you worried about catching on fire? That's some serious lumen juice you got there.

You'll need to give us a little build info (ie. batteries, drivers, switches, weight, etc.). I can tell it's based on the Achesalot design - and nicely done, btw.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Each light head and battery weighs 6.1 oz


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## Ultra Magnus (Jan 13, 2004)

Beam shots???

BM


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Please keep an eye on unusual and sudden baldness in the shape of rectangles. Since the light units are very low on the helmet, the weight may be better handled if you used extension cords and kept the batteries in the pack. Consider that if you find your helmet to be a bit too heavy or unbalanced.

Well, since you have only two LEDs per unit, the heat probably isn't much of a factor. I'm pretty amazed by all the DIYs going on. Keep it up.


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## davedent (Oct 29, 2007)

where did you source the batteries - looking to make a light myself but finding it really hard to find affordable battery packs :madman:


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Batteries I am using*

*Cheaper - not rubber dipped*


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## davedent (Oct 29, 2007)

thanks very much,
what driver are you using- fatman, maxflex or something different. Also what are the runtimes like?


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

And switch? must be fairly low profile inside housing.....


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hawseman said:


> And switch? must be fairly low profile inside housing.....


The switch is probably the round black thing on top of the light.

Tim


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Wombat said:


> The switch is probably the round black thing on top of the light.
> 
> Tim


Yes, I figured that part....just want to know the manufacturer and where it was purchased. It seems like a nice waterproof option that will work with the achesalot design..


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## ViperZX (Nov 13, 2006)

Insane!


In a good way!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba - the simplest "light" form*


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## Alex SP (Sep 25, 2007)

Quite impressive indeed. Lots of light in a smart, flexible setup. Looks like it´s also easy to use... I´m curious about the runtime on each pair of LEDs.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Each set of lights getting ~3 hours of runtime


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## dkirk (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice set up Scar! Can you tell me where you got the switches? I'm in the final stages of assembly and those look perfect.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Another flavor*


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## brum (Dec 19, 2004)

What driver are you using? 
Since a 7.4V Li-ion probably won't keep two LEDs in regulation throughout it's batterylife... A buck-boost driver would be appropriate in this setup.

On the better side: they are very, very good looking! Is that black ano aluminium or did you coat/paint them yourself?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Switch is from Digikey

Using regulated driver

Type III hard anodized aluminum


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*scar* You are a Freak!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

msxtr said:


> *scar* You are a Freak!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:
> 
> Greetings - Saludos
> 
> msxtr


*msxtr* - That is the best compliment I have gotten in years. Thank You!!


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## brent878 (Apr 17, 2007)

are you running them at 1a? And how much does it weigh. I am thinking of making a 3-4 led setup for the helmet and am worried about weight on the helmet as i have never run anything on the helmet before.


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## tippy208 (Sep 19, 2007)

just a noob question how much would you charge if I were to ask you to build one for me? That is if you're willing of course lol


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

Nice job! I couldn't help notice the apparently screwless design. How are you keeping the front part of the housing attached?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*brent878* - I got the driver configured for 800ma. 1a will put off too much heat and will need some kind of finned heat sink which I do not like the look of. All that is needed to keep them cool at 800ma is a few miles an hour of air travelling across them. My light head / battery combos weigh 173 grams a piece.

*tippy208* - I am not sure if you are serious or not with the "lol". PM if you are serious, I made up some extras.

*achesalot* - Thanks. I am using an alloy epoxy to seal all of the seams and it is still easily serviceable/upgradeable (I hear the R2 calling).


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## Katzenjammer (Jun 12, 2007)

Nice rig! 

Just out of curiosity, is there some reason you chose not to mount the batteries on the sides of the helmet, where they'd be in balance? Even tho they don't weigh much, I'd think it'd be a bit of a strain on your neck (as Locoman implied earlier).


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

No signs of neck strain observed yet. Thanks for the concern.


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## Richrider (Feb 17, 2004)

Scar- 

I noticed your design used 3/4" square tubing rather than 1" like the achesalot design. Which optics/reflectors are you using that fit in that smaller package? You stated above that you used a regulated drive, which one? From where? Any problem fitting everything into the smaller 3/4" tubing?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Richrider*- I am using the Fraen reflectors designed for Crees. *Nothing* fits inside the 3/4" tubing, *everything *has to be modified. There are many drive circuits out there, you just need to find the one that fits *your *needs.


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## Richrider (Feb 17, 2004)

Thanks for the help, I'm trying to run the same set up as you. I guess I am getting confused because the two LEDs will have a Vf of about 7.4v and your battery is 7.2v. So are you running a boost circuit? Everything I have seen is either boost or buck and battery voltage is either much greater or much less than Vf to make the circuit work. Am I missing something?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

I know nothing about batteries. The battery I am using says 7.4v in the listing, but it also says it is constructed using 2x 3.6v cells (7.2v?). I do know it is 8.4v at full charge.


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## Richrider (Feb 17, 2004)

I think I figured it out. Are you using something like this?

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Yep, something like that.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

scar said:


> I know nothing about batteries. The battery I am using says 7.4v in the listing, but it also says it is constructed using 2x 3.6v cells (7.2v?). I do know it is 8.4v at full charge.


All batteries of Li-ion gives 8,4 volts when this are recent charged.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## PhxCycler (Sep 22, 2007)

scar said:


> Switch is from Digikey


Would you mind sharing the part number at Digikey, including the waterproof cover?

Thanks!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*SWITCH*










*RUBBER BOOT*


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## PhxCycler (Sep 22, 2007)

scar said:


> *SWITCH*
> 
> *RUBBER BOOT*


Excellent! Thank you. I've been searching for this type of switch/boot and haven't been able to find it.


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

scar said:


> *brent878* - I got the driver configured for 800ma. 1a will put off too much heat and will need some kind of finned heat sink which I do not like the look of. All that is needed to keep them cool at 800ma is a few miles an hour of air travelling across them. My light head / battery combos weigh 173 grams a piece.
> 
> *tippy208* - I am not sure if you are serious or not with the "lol". PM if you are serious, I made up some extras.
> 
> *achesalot* - Thanks. I am using an alloy epoxy to seal all of the seams and it is still easily serviceable/upgradeable (I hear the R2 calling).


Which alloy epoxy are you using? I was considering JB Weld and sealing up the unit completely. If I ever had to service the light, then it would require cutting the seams to pull the unit apart.


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## chris-crisis (Jul 16, 2007)

I am confused why have the two cree lights and 4 seoul rather than just 6 of the same type?

All up it would be nearly 600grams which is a lot but I expect the helmet feels more balanced with the weight on the back. That is what I have seen most people do with lights like Ayups etc.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Lumbee1* - I have tried multiple types of alloy epoxies and they all behave the same. All I do is use a large "chisel" style Xacto knife blade placed in a seam and using a hammer tap lightly and comes right apart. Try it.

*chris-crisis* - I am sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you. Why 2 Cree's and 4 Seoul's? Because I can! The Cree's with the Fraen reflector is very "spotty". I am using a "custom" molded reflector with the Seoul's which is smooth and gives a more "floody" beam pattern. Spot on the inside, floods on the outside. Makes perfect sense to me.

*CUSTOM REFLECTOR*


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## brent878 (Apr 17, 2007)

with just using a velcro for the mounting do you have trouble aiming it? I am trying to figure out what the best way for me to make my housing and what the best way to mount it to the helmet. I have some 1" round tube and 1" square tubing but i think i gotta figure out how i want to do the mounting before i make the housing. I was thinking of velcro but didn't know how I could aim it easily. Have you had any trouble with yours or its pretty flexible with the aiming?


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

brent878 said:


> with just using a velcro for the mounting do you have trouble aiming it? I am trying to figure out what the best way for me to make my housing and what the best way to mount it to the helmet. I have some 1" round tube and 1" square tubing but i think i gotta figure out how i want to do the mounting before i make the housing. I was thinking of velcro but didn't know how I could aim it easily. Have you had any trouble with yours or its pretty flexible with the aiming?


I built a mounting bracket with a hinge, thumb screw for quick angle adjustment, and a padded base. I use a 1 inch cinch strap to tie it down to the helmet. My light just screws onto the mounting bracket. This has worked great but I always use the same angle for the light direction. I am going to build another mounting bracket that has a much lower profile and set angle.


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## jimbvrly (Jan 3, 2007)

scar said:


> *Another flavor*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

jimbvrly - I made some extras - PM me if you are really interested.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

brent878 - The top of the helmet is a big arc. If I need to bring the beam down, I just move the light head forward on my helmet towards the front. If I need to raise the beam, I just move the light head back on my helmet. Very easy. Square tubing will work much better with the Velcro. The round tubing will have a very small contact patch, unless you machine a small flat on the bottom.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba bar mounted*


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Can you link me to the digikey part for the switch and boot? Thanks. I need this for my semi-homebrew HID setup.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

There are embedded links in the post above that has the pictures of both. Just click on the word "*SWITCH*" above the picture of the switch and the word "*RUBBER BOOT*" above the picture of the rubber boot.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Been playing around a little......*


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting. I know I have been busy! Here is one of my Amoeba's that I whipped up for a coworker. Had some bare (non-anodized) aluminum laying around so I used it up and applied a Hammerite finish to it. Looks pretty cool all fresh, but the finish probably won't last a long time. This one is using SSC P4's with custom molded reflectors.










Now I am just waiting for some Cree R2's to come in from Cutter that I ordered 2 weeks ago. Got some housings all built up, just waiting unpatiently! Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?


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## Cody Broken (Oct 28, 2006)

I discovered your work from over on Bikeforums. I thank you for sharing so generously your brilliant (pun intended) achievements. You sir, rock.


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## Cody Broken (Oct 28, 2006)

scar said:


> Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?


Sounds like a business opportunity!


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

scar said:


> There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting. I know I have been busy! Here is one of my Amoeba's that I whipped up for a coworker. Had some bare (non-anodized) aluminum laying around so I used it up and applied a Hammerite finish to it. Looks pretty cool all fresh, but the finish probably won't last a long time. This one is using SSC P4's with custom molded reflectors.
> 
> Now I am just waiting for some Cree R2's to come in from Cutter that I ordered 2 weeks ago. Got some housings all built up, just waiting unpatiently! Are the latest Cree releases ever going to be available from a US based source or will it always be Australia or Hong Kong?


I just completed a tail light and posted it. I am working on a helmet light/bar light next. I am impressed with your light housing. Nice work.

My questions:
Where did you find the tubing? The 3/4" looks cool, but I struggled with fitting things into my 1" housing. Any chance of posting a construction shot of the wiring guts of your light?
The Front clear cover - How is it attached? I see you recessed the center "rib" I planned to install mine on the outside of the housing, but realize that will be prone to getting cracked or knocked off.

Again great work.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*mjzraz* - Nice job on your rear blinkie! I have been thinking about trying to build one as I have had a lot of commuters asking for something. I am buying the anodized 3/4" tubing as leftover scraps from a friend. I have seen 3/4" raw aluminum at Lowes and Ace in my area. I have a milling machine at home so I am machining the front lens so that there is a slight "interference" fit of the lens into the body. Also using clear silicone on edges before installing for sealing. Nothing special going on in the inside, same situation that you and everyone else is dealing with, trying to get 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bucket, only mine is a 3 pound bucket. Once again, great job on the rear blinkie.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

My Cree R2's came in yesterday from Cutter! I can't wait to get a couple of these installed. Should bump up the output of an Amoeba to ~520 lumens.


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

scar, thanks so much for your guidance on this thread. I found these sandwich shoppe refectors. They fit the SSCs great, but don't fit the Crees well at all. I have to sand down the front edge to reduce the outside diameter just a tad and then I use an 11/16" mill bit to round out the interior of the 3/4" tubing down about 1/4". I'm still working on heatsink and other options to seal the deal. How are you able to take down the board size without losing all your soldering surface? I have some P4s on the way without boards that I'll mount directly to a custom cut piece of 3/8" thick aluminum, but I'm curious how you're going to make the R2s work.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> but I'm curious how you're going to make the R2s work


I am still thinking about that one.

By the way, you must be Chris L's adventure racing friend. I saw him on Mt Falcon one night and showed him my light, he later mentioned that he showed my flyer to his teammates and one of them (must have been you) had built something somewhat similar. I watched the live updates on the web of your race in Moab. Just saw the video of the race on TV the other day, looked like a great time.


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Hmmm, you mean Chris W of Adventure Cycling? Otherwise, not sure we're one in the same. I solo'd Moab in 06, but I didn't race this year. I did the Kona 24 with Chris in 05 and 06.

Anyway, I was using 1" box tubing in other ways until recently:








Not very weather proof, but easy as pie to put together!









A solid light output with three Seoul P4s at 700ma, especially when you have the comparison below.









TrailTech 13w HID (for comparison purposes)


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Oops, sorry about that. Chris L races for Rocky Mountain Adventure Racing team. They did a 3 day event in Moab about 2 months ago. They have been showing the race on Rocky Mountain Sports the last couple of weekends.


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Understandable mistake. My name comes from riding a Rocky Mountain. 

Cheers.


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## brent878 (Apr 17, 2007)

scar said:


> There does not seem to be much "homebrewing" going on lately, or at least nobody is posting.


I am working on some new stuff but kinda at a hault right now. Finally finished my 3rd set but they look exactly like my first 2 sets except with 2 bflex controlers instead of standard buckpucks so not very note worthy.

But i am working on a couple of lights but now waiting on the sea turtles from DX to come with my 8 ssc p4's. So bascially can't do much with out the led's. Its going to be a helmet light and I think i am going to steel your velcro mounting system either that or zip ties. I like your velcro system as it will come off if it hits a tree branch or the ground. Zip ties aren't as forgiving. I will post when I have more done. But keep up the good work and post more as you make new stuff.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Scar, where do you get those circular plates that mount to the Cree's? My Cree's are just the bare LED without the bottom plate. Also, how does that plate isolate the cathode/anode pad from the bottom plate?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*92SE-R* - Sorry for the late response. When purchasing LED's from Cutter Electronics(AUS), you have the option of bare emitter, an emitter mounted to a round MCPCB, or an emitter mounted to a MCPCB star. Different suppliers offer diffent sizes as well. MCPCB stands for Metal Core Printed Circuit Board. There is a very thin layer of material (circuit board) sandwiching the metal core. The thin circuit board material on one size has traces that line up with the two conductive sides on the emitter to make and isolate the connections and continue outward to solder pads. On the bottom side circuit card ther are no traces which produces the isolation only.

Now realize that I am a mechanical designer/draftsman during the day and I am just starting to dabble in electronics. So please, any electrical experts please review my description above and let me know how I did.:thumbsup:


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Just want to make sure I'm understanding the Cree XR-E group codes: for a the P4 was the Cadillac, then came the Q-series up to Q5, and now you've found the next step (R)?

Are there any drawbacks (other than lumens) to not going with highest group available?

On DealExtreme http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1302 there's the P4 for $4.96, or the Q5 for $9.74. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394 As far as these are concerned, is it true 'you get what you pay for'?

thanks for the help!

dave


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

Yep, higher bins equal more light for the same energy. We've come a long way from the Luxeon LEDs of just 2-3 years ago that put out 25-30 lumens per watt. While that was revolutionary because of its efficiency over Halogens, it pales in comparison to the Cree 7090 P4 (which is not the same as the SSC or Seoul P4) which put out over 80 lumens per watt. Each generation has improved with projections for 130 lumen per watt LEDs by next summer.

It's all a matter of cost-benefit analysis. Calculate how much light you need and then figure out if you want to go with a two or three LED configuration and how much you want to spend. Three Cree P4s will put out roughly 500-550 lumens at 1000ma. That's as much as some HIDs. With Q5s you can get roughly 500 lumens from two LEDs at 1000ma, or you could use three and run them at only 700ma and have less concern about overheating and longer LED life.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Here is the road map for the Cree XR-E










The lumen ratings for each bin listed are minumums @350ma. When you start driving them at 750-1000ma is when you will really notice big performance jumps between bins. There is still a R3 and R4 coming!! Rumor is 1st quarter of 2008.

This is why the major light manufacturers are struggling to keep up with the latest releases of LED's. They invest alot of money to secure a large quantity of what they think is the latest bin, then one quarter later a new bin is released and nobody wants the lower bin. But guess what, us "homebrewer's" can make that switch almost immediatley.:thumbsup:


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## brum (Dec 19, 2004)

scar said:


> Here is the road map for the Cree XR-E
> 
> The lumen ratings for each bin listed are minumums @350ma. When you start driving them at 750-1000ma is when you will really notice big performance jumps between bins. There is still a R3 and R4 coming!! Rumor is 1st quarter of 2008.
> 
> This is why the major light manufacturers are struggling to keep up with the latest releases of LED's. They invest alot of money to secure a large quantity of what they think is the latest bin, then one quarter later a new bin is released and nobody wants the lower bin. But guess what, us "homebrewer's" can make that switch almost immediatley.:thumbsup:


All the bins scale the same, so the improvement will be the same at higher currents. 
With each bin you do get a improvement, but I don't think you will see it, if the gap is wide enough between bins to double the output, you'd still only see a quarter more light (right?).

But the runtime improvement and ability to run lower current for the same amount of light (a bit the same as runtime) is very noticable.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

I have heard people saying that the Q5's had a slighter higher Vf than previous bins. Does this have any affect on runtime?


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## rockymtnway (Nov 14, 2004)

I would think so, since total wattage is a function of amp x volts.

Hypothetically, if Q4 puts out 100 lumens at 350ma and 3.5v (1.225w) and a Q5 puts out 107 lumens at 350ma and 3.7v (1.295w), then the Q4 would be putting out 81.6 lumens per watt while the Q5 would be putting out 82.6 lumens per watt (a negligable difference of one lumen per watt). As far as battery life, if you were driving three at 700ma, the hypothetical Q4 would use up a 14.8v, 2.0ah battery in 4.03 hours vs. the hypothetical Q5 using the same battery in 3.81 hours.

This is all hypothetical, since I don't really know the difference in Vf between bins, but does show that Vf makes a difference. If it didn't, we wouldn't have jumped away from the Luxeon V so fast, but that 6v Vf was a battery killer at 1000ma (and it didn't help that you couldn't wire three in series without an 18v battery).


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Thanks for the clarification rockymtnway. I kind of figured the runtime difference was very minor with the style of batteries we are using. It was the flashlight guys that brought it up, because their batteries have less mAh's.


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

I haven't gotten clarification from CREE yet, but I think that binning chart is wrong. 

R4 115-130 or 130-138
R3 107-122 or 122-130
R2 100-114 or 114-122
Q5 94-107 or 107-114


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Thanks for the advice Scar - that helps me out! Looking forward to this winter project 

cheers,
dave


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

scar said:


> Thanks for the clarification rockymtnway. I kind of figured the runtime difference was very minor with the style of batteries we are using. It was the flashlight guys that brought it up, because their batteries have less mAh's.


From what I've read, you can direct drive the Q5 with Li-Ion since the Vf is very close to the full charge voltage of the battery. That might save a couple of bucks. :thumbsup:


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## brum (Dec 19, 2004)

Homebrew said:


> From what I've read, you can direct drive the Q5 with Li-Ion since the Vf is very close to the full charge voltage of the battery. That might save a couple of bucks. :thumbsup:


Under load 3,6V is a good driving voltage. 
But I don't know if the LED will take the initial 4,2V from a fully charged Li-ion.

Maybe 'invest' in some drivers from DX/Kai, they don't cost a thing, will be better for the LED and offcourse regulated, so no dimming over time (although with li-ion that problem isnt all that bad).


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Oh yah, I read through the thread again and didn't find any mention of what you used for the lens cover - the part that you interference fit into the AL housing. I assume some kind of optical-quality plastic - any hints on where to find some small pieces?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*cdn-dave* - Yes it is some optical grade Lexan. I picked it up at the local Ace Hardware, they said they would cut me a piece whatever size I needed. I think I got a 12" x 12" piece, but I couldn't remember what I paid for it if my life depended on it. I then cut it down into smaller sizes by scoring with a razor knife the snapping along the edge of my bench. I then do the final sizing on my mill.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba w/ Cree R2, anodized matte silver housing*


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## jimbvrly (Jan 3, 2007)

I cant believe its so small. Are the lights in there 1 flood 1 spot? Whats this setup for Lumens? These the new LED's?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> I cant believe its so small
> jimbvrly


Every time I pick one up I say the same thing. This one has two of the newest R2 bin mated to two Fraen reflectors (spot). Going from the datasheets only - *~520 lumens!*


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## jimbvrly (Jan 3, 2007)

Jeebus! You know how this is out in the woods? Would just this be enuff to take on single track. You ever mix a flood and a spot?


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## asrixon (Nov 13, 2007)

Scar,
*Slick lights!!! *

Any chance of some beam shots?

I am keen to make something like these over the x-mass break.
I am thinking of running 4xR2's linked in series in 2 separate housings with an umbilical in between. Not sure at this stage if I will shell out for a maxflex or run with one of the cheaper driver options. Will run higher voltage to accomadate the 4 R2's in series but should get longer run times that way???

Cheers,
Alex

By the way what leads and connectors are you using to the batteries?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

First off, I would like to apologize for not responding in a timely matter to everyone. I am currently in New York on business without a consistent internet connection. Had to bring a 60 pound tool box and suitcase so I left my computer at home. I will be returning home on Saturday.

*jimbvrly* - One light head is enough for single track. I just have 3 mounted on my helmet for the WOW factor.

*asrixon* - I am trying to get out and get some beam shots, maybe this weekend. I am using Trail Tech connectors which have a waterproof connection. Very nice cables/connectors!


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## BigBlue (Oct 10, 2005)

Scar,
Great job on the light. I've been building a bunch of lights based on achesalot design for my riding buddies and myself and we have all been impressed with the light, but after seeing your design, I would like to take a stab at building a similar light for myself. I like that fact that it is such a compact size. Anyways, it sounds as if you are constantly building these lights so I was wondering if you can take a picture of the guts (inside) of your next build. I am wondering how tight of a fit everything is since the light itself is so compact. Thanks for the inspiration!


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

The only drawback I see is the lack of proper fitting optics. I was going to build a new bikelight and call it HIDK (HID Killer  ) with 3/4" Al tubing and 4 to 5 Q5 CREE's. I just couldn't find any reflectors or optics with the same light dispersion options that the LEDIL series has in a .675" diameter (15.8mm). It does no good to have 1000+ lumens when it cannot be properly directed down the trail.


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## BigBlue (Oct 10, 2005)

Agreed. The Fraen reflector that Scar uses only come in a spot beam. Eagerly waiting for Scar to post beam shots of the CREE light.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*BigBlue* - I am sure if you have been building a bunch of lights using the 1" square tubing, than you are very aware of how tight of a fit it is. Give it a try with the 3/4" square tubing and make sure to let us see what you come up with.

Just to clarify - Yes, I am using the Fraen reflector that is specifically designed for the Cree XR-E and it is a spot beam that throws way down the trail, and there is a lot of useable side spill. But I am also using a custom molded reflector with the SSC P4 that produces a wide flood beam, but does not have anywhere near the throw of the Cree/Fraen combination. Every person has their own preferences or needs. I can certainly understand the skepticism without any beam shots as proof. I was planning to go out tonight and get some pics but it is currently snowing.

*Lumbee1* - It is really too bad that the only drawback you saw with your design vision of the HIDK was the lack of proper fitting optics. I definitely have no problems properly directing down the trail the ~1000 lumens that I have mounted on *my* helmet!! :thumbsup:


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## asrixon (Nov 13, 2007)

*Scar*, When you got your batteries, did they come with trail tech female connectors or did you have to add them?

Just getting ready to order mine this week.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Had to add them.


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## asrixon (Nov 13, 2007)

Cheers!


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## CU-Murph (Apr 2, 2004)

Do you have directions on how to make this light? How does it compare to making Pond Scum light in terms of easiness, tools needed?

Thank you.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Sorry, no directions. Way too much time and detail involved. You can get a general idea of what is involved looking at Achesalot's threads stickied at the top of this forum. Got a couple extra available, if you are interested PM me.


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

Scar have you had any problems with the smaller lights overheating? Using the 3/4" tubing reduces the already minimal cooling area of my design using the 1" tubing, so I guess you'd have roughly 25% less surface area for heat dissipation. However, I guess if you keep riding fast enough the air moving across the light will do the job


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Hey Allen,
Problems due to overheating? Haven't had any LED failures or melting of helmets if that is what you mean. During the summer evenings when the temperature is still around 70 degrees, the light gets pretty warm during the climbs as not much air is moving across it, but cools right down during the downhills. Yes, my design using the 3/4" tubing has less overall surface area, but I am also only using 2 LED's per light head. When using 3 LED's, that center LED is only getting air moving across the one surface (top) and is being sandwiched by 2 other heat sources. With the 2 LED set-up, there is air moving across the top surface and the outside walls for each LED.

I like to use anodized aluminum because it makes for a harder surface that does not scratch so easy. I have also read that anodized aluminum helps with thermal transfer. Look at computer heatsinks, most are anodized. If they are doing it only for corrosion protection, they could do it with chromate conversion for much cheaper. If they are doing it only for aesthetics, how many people care what their heatsink inside their computer looks like?

So the short answer is no problems with overheating. Thanks for the concern.:thumbsup:

Jay


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

That's good to hear. I really like the anodizing. Nice job on those great looking lights!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Forum member Sasquatch purchased some lights from me and has posted some beam shots of the Amoeba along with some other lights used by members of his riding crew. Take a look.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=366296


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## striegel (Dec 24, 2007)

The results look really good. I'd love to put some compact lights like this on my helmet.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

striegel -


> I'd love to put some compact lights like this on my helmet.


PM me.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba w/ SSC P4 U bin, anodized matte silver housing*

I tried to keep busy and stay out of trouble by making up a few of these over the holidays. Used SSC P4 U bin LED's mated to custom molded reflectors (smooth, non-faceted). Produces a very nice flood pattern.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba gathering*


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## plasticmann (May 7, 2006)

Looks like something out of Doctor Who...

"Exterminate the HID's, Exterminate the HID's !!!!"


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Here is where the Amoeba really shines...*

Take a look at _*these*_ numbers -

*Amoeba with Cree P4 WD bin or SSC P4 U bin LED'S:*

Lumens per gram - 2.31
Lumens per dollar - 2.00

*Amoeba with Cree R2 WH bin LED'S*

Lumens per gram - 3.00
Lumens per dollar - 2.17


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

*We need some light p0rn!*



scar said:


> *jimbvrly* - One light head is enough for single track. I just have 3 mounted on my helmet for the WOW factor.
> 
> *asrixon* - I am trying to get out and get some beam shots, maybe this weekend.


Scar, 
Come on man - where are the *beam shots*!!!!!?:thumbsup: :thumbsup: It's been a long time promised.

This thread is over 100 deep now and all we have is a few beam shots in another thread. 
PLEASE - Here is my beam shot wish list (msxtr is drooling already....)
Single Amoeba Spot
Single Amoeba flood
Double Amoeba 
Triple Amoeba 
Something to compare with. (Such as here's what you can get for $200 commercially like a X.2 dual Minewt, here's what you can get from Amoeba or DIY)

Anybody else want to see some beam shots? Maybe some peer pressure would work. 
Scar - not trying to give you a hard time - all in fun  But seriously beam shots please.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> Originally Posted by mjzraz
> Come on man - where are the beam shots!!!!!? It's been a long time promised.


I am reviewing the manual for my camera right now. I got the messsage loud and clear.


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## mjzraz (Oct 8, 2005)

scar said:


> I am reviewing the manual for my camera right now. I got the messsage loud and clear.


:thumbsup: Nice. Thanks - I'm not saying it's easy - My camera didn't have enough manual settings to do a great job. I did find this thread on taking pictures - Might help - LINK


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Here goes my attempt at beam shots....*

So take it easy on me.

Conditions:
Time - 4:00 a.m. in the morning
Temperature - 28 degrees
Wind - 14 mph
Humidity - 43%
Cloud cover - none
Moon - none

Camera settings:
Canon SD450 digitial
Manual
ISO 100
Exposure - +1
White balance - daylight
10 second timer delay

Camera was set on a trash can at about 3' off of the ground
All lights were aimed at tree about 150'-175' away (roughly measured in GoogleEarth)
Not much color in photos (it is winter time here in Colorado)

*Control shot*









*Jet Phantom MR11 Halogen overvolted at 14.4V (battery measured 15.97V)*









*Cree P4 WD*









*SSC P4 U bin*









*Cree R2 WH *









These photos are all of single light heads (2 LED's). I had forgotten that the original request was for some photos of the double and triple set-up as I was grabbing stuff before I headed out of the house at 3:30 a.m. Consider this a test, and only a test. I will try to do some more of the double and triple set-up.


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## doodooboi (Dec 29, 2006)

scar said:


> Take a look at _*these*_ numbers -
> 
> *Amoeba with Cree P4 WD bin or SSC P4 U bin LED'S:*
> 
> ...


So since it looks like you are being surounded by these creations in your office/garage/Man-Cave, what are you going prices for letting that go to a fellow MTB'ker!


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## Lumbee1 (Dec 16, 2004)

Scar, where did you get R2 WH bins from? How much were they?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*doodooboi* - Please PM me, I don't want to break any forum rules.

*Lumbee1* - Cutter Electronics. I got them when they first came available, they are a little cheaper now.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoeba - new flavor options*

*Got a couple more options available in anodized aluminum, take a look*.

*Amoeba line-up*


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

*scar* Hi, only by curiosity, sell you this lights??  If are so, how much cost?

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## geoliquid (Dec 20, 2007)

Scar, 
Sweet looking lights! 
does each light have thier own driver? 
i'm looking to build the same style light with one inch tubing so I can use the square lidel optics I have. 
I have a bunch of these http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256 and thinking of wiring one per led and then parallel to the same batteryspace battery. using these would definately keep my build cost down. Thanks in advance


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*R2 Black Beauty*

*2x Cree R2 WH bin 
~520 lumens!*


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## geoliquid (Dec 20, 2007)

Scar, 
I see the pictures but don't see where you stated what driver you are using..


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

Scar, what are you using at the trailtech cable to housing interface? 

I'm talking about that big, black, hex thing - looks neat!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*joraff* - That is a waterproof cable gland
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3227


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

Ah, you're kidding me! My batteryspace order with the trailtech cables JUST shipped! Their shipping prices are too high to justify another order just for those.

I can probably find something similar elsewhere, or just caulk it up until I make another batteryspace order


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## AMMP (Aug 30, 2007)

Scar. Great job on the lights. Thanks for sharing the design. What driver are you using? What kind of cable are you using? What type of connectors are they and where do you get them?
Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work.


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

He's using he trail-tech waterproof cables, available at batteryspace.


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## AMMP (Aug 30, 2007)

Great, thanks - anyone know what the driver is?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*By special request...*

Now offering the base Amoeba Cree spot version in Q5 WC tint
http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=16805


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*6x SSC P4*

I decided to take some time out and build up a bar mounted light for myself.

*The Troll*

Light head measures 4 1/2" x 3/4" x 1 1/2" 
Dark bronze anodized aluminum
6x SSC P4 LED's mated to custom molded reflectors
Trail Tech cable with switch




























I will try to get some pictures of it tonight mounted on the bike. It looks really sweet, compact, tucked just out in front of the bars.

Oh yeah, it is *really* bright too!!


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## jimbvrly (Jan 3, 2007)

Whoa. Thats Baja style!


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Wowwwwwwww, that have that illuminate......Light pollution at the power  

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## geoliquid (Dec 20, 2007)

*Wow!*

 :thumbsup: :eekster: :thumbsup:

What voltage battery pack are you using?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Using 7.4V Li-Ion batteries. I am waiting on this one to be delivered http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2424 which should give me about 3.5 hours runtime. Currently running a 4800mAh 7.4V battery with a runtime of about 1.5 hours.

Weight of light head and cable = 210 grams


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Here are a couple of photos I snapped real quick out in the garage of *The Troll* mounted, you should get the idea.


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

Damn man! That and 3 Ameobas on a helmet and you should be able to bomb any downhill. So how many guys can ride with you without any lights?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Trollin'*

Took the Troll out last night for a spin on the community bike path to get some pictures. Should have brought the tripod as most of the pics were too blurry. Got a couple that I think show the Troll's ability, take a look.

*Just chillin' like a villain*









*Cockpit view*


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

Wow..... just wow.


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## Sasquatch (Dec 23, 2003)

Nice job Scar. I want one!!!:thumbsup:

Any plans to sell 3-6 light setups?

Sasquatch



scar said:


> Took the Troll out last night for a spin on the community bike path to get some pictures. Should have brought the tripod as most of the pics were too blurry. Got a couple that I think show the Troll's ability, take a look.
> 
> *Just chillin' like a villain*
> 
> ...


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> Originally posted by Sasquatch
> _Any plans to sell 3-6 light setups?_


Sure, if anybody is really interested just PM me and we can discuss it. I would probably just do 2 LED, 4 LED, and 6 LED configurations to keep things easy on myself. The only limiting factor of the current Troll is handlebar diameter. This mount will only work on 1" diameter bars.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*3x Cree P4 DIY Trunk Light*

Been wanting to build up a LED trunk light for quite some time. Finally got my drivers from Kaidomain a couple of weeks ago.

3x Cree P4 WD LED's
some scraps left over from some modified reflectors
scrapped heatsink from work
1 Kaidomain Kennan driver

Tapped into the power at the stock trunk light socket so that the mercury switch controls the light turning on and off. May go with a push button switch later. Mounted the light on the underside of the trunk lid hoping to get some spill outside of the trunk area. Can't wait for the sun to go down tonight to see what it looks like.:thumbsup:


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Stopped this morning to take a beam shot of the trunk light. It is pretty incredible. The dome light inside of the car is a xenon bulb which is quite a bit brighter that the stock bulb. Anyone else out there got over 500 lumens coming out of their trunk?:thumbsup:


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

gangsta!


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## il2mb (Jan 27, 2005)

No, But I do have 150 Lumens on my bar-be-que light.


Took one of those over priced, 4 (weak)led, can barely see anything with lights, they sell in the hardware store and upgraded. You know, the ones that clamp to the side of the bar-be-que and have a long goose neck. Slapped a Cree Q2 in there with a 25 degree optics. What a difference! Only problem now is I have no excuse for burning the steaks....


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> Originally quoted by il2mb
> _No, But I do have 150 Lumens on my bar-be-que light.Took one of those over priced, 4 (weak)led, can barely see anything with lights, they sell in the hardware store and upgraded. You know, the ones that clamp to the side of the bar-be-que and have a long goose neck. Slapped a Cree Q2 in there with a 25 degree optics. What a difference! Only problem now is I have no excuse for burning the steaks...._


Nice job il2mb. It is funny how you start to look at everything with a light and think to yourself "I could improve on that". I was cleaning up a mess with a vacuum with a light on it the other day and started to get a big grin on my face. Thank goodness the weather is getting better so I can start putting in some miles offroad!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Went for a great this morning with the only two guys crazy enough to get up and go riding at 5 am in the morning. Got a couple great pictures of the Denver lights I thought I would share.

*Myself with a R2 Amoeba on the helmet and The Troll mounted on the bars*









*Dan with a 14.4V overvolted Pond Scum on the helmet and a SSC P4 Amoeba on the bars*









*Sean with a R2 Amoeba on the helmet and a SSC P4 Amoeba on the bars*


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## Bobblehat (Dec 1, 2007)

*Nice shots!*

.... nice lights ......and nice Jupiter(?) too!


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Nice pics!!!!! *Scar*, where you live, if it put know? 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Thanks for the compliments on the pictures, sometimes you get lucky. Still trying to figure out the camera fully.

msxtr - I live in Denver, Colorado, in the US of A. The trail this picture was taken at is called Mathew Winters http://www.co.jefferson.co.us/openspace/openspace_T56_R1.htm. It is part of a park where Red Rocks Ampitheatre http://www.redrocksonline.com/index.asp is located at. Great views, great riding, and only about 10 minutes from work. Being so close to the metro area, this trail gets bombarded with people after work and on weekends. At 5 am in the morning, you truly have the trail to yourself.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

There is so much light coming off that troll system you gotta be careful not to set the grass/brush on fire..............

I am very seriously thinking of ordering one of these. Either that or some sort of a li-ion battery for my jet halogen.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*My EDC (Every Day Carry)*










I have had this plastic case lying around the garage for quite awhile and it just caught my eye yesterday. Put Velcro strips in the lid to secure and organize light heads.
_(The Troll is now a permanent fixture on my bike now, it ain't ever coming off!)_


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

The photos over Denver look fantastic. You should send them into some of the magazines that run monthly reader pics. I dig the light case. The whole grab and go thing keeps it easy. Keep the good ideas coming!!!!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*When will this addiction stop?*

*The 12V SPLAT! light*

I found this light the other day and thought it might be useful with some modifications. The cigarette lighter plug detaches from the top of the light, spin the head of the light, and 7ft of cord unwinds from the light body. The power button is on the rear of the light, underneath a cover that contains a large magnet and can set at different angles. Just spin the head and the cord winds up back inside the light.

This light originally came with (17) 5mm LED's that were pretty useless. I implanted 3 Cree P4 leds with Fraen reflectors, a Kaidomain KENNAN driver, and some heatsinking.


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## GeeTeeOhh (Sep 19, 2006)

*12V modded light - where to buy?*

I like the Car light. It would be great for my son who 4X4s and really could use something like this. Lately we have been working under the hood using my 2x Cree Q5 light and battery - it is the brightest portable light we own!

Can you tell me were you found this?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GeeTeeOhh_
> Can you tell me were you found this?


My favorite source of worthless crap that can sometimes be turned into a functional piece of equipment with some modifications - Harbor Freight! Here is the link - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95799

Be sure to print this page and take it to the store with you. The prices are usually higher at the store than online, they will honor the cheaper.

Now bear in mind, this is a cheaply made light. Every package on display had loose hardware rattling around inside of it. Found out this is for the rear cover. For $4, you get what you pay for. I added about $30 of part I had lying around. I thought it would be fun to mod it, throw it in the glove compartment, and be able to whip it out if ever needed.:thumbsup:


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## GeeTeeOhh (Sep 19, 2006)

Ahh yes, Harbor Freight - to whom else would I trust my life  while working on a 1000# motor suspended on a $49.00 made in China engine stand. I'll check it out online - no Harbor Freight for at least 120 miles from where I live.


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

scar said:


> My favorite source of worthless crap that can sometimes be turned into a functional piece of equipment with some modifications - Harbor Freight! Here is the link - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95799
> 
> Be sure to print this page and take it to the store with you. The prices are usually higher at the store than online, they will honor the cheaper.
> 
> Now bear in mind, this is a cheaply made light. Every package on display had loose hardware rattling around inside of it. Found out this is for the rear cover. For $4, you get what you pay for. I added about $30 of part I had lying around. I thought it would be fun to mod it, throw it in the glove compartment, and be able to whip it out if ever needed.:thumbsup:


I bought one of them from my local "pound" shop (or 99c stores ad you'd say in americans) - NEW - for 50p - thats about $1!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Another mounting option for the helmet*

Just finished up this Amoeba for a local CC/Endurance racer. He wanted to use an old NiteRider helmet mount with it.

*Dark Bronze Amoeba w/ Cree R2 WH bin LED's*


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## Sasquatch (Dec 23, 2003)

scar said:


> Just finished up this Amoeba for a local CC/Endurance racer. He wanted to use an old NiteRider helmet mount with it.
> 
> *Dark Bronze Amoeba w/ Cree R2 WH bin LED's*


Why?? The NR helmet mount is a piece of crap. I know several folks who have built their own helmet mounts because they were so disapointed in the NR helmet mount design.

With the ultra-light weight of the Amoeba, it probably works alot better, but velcro works great too. If I thought I needed a more secure mount than a simple velcro patch, I'd use a velcro strap design like L&M uses.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

It was requested this way, so that was the way it was built. As you said, I have never had a problem with the Velcro on the helmet.


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## scuba (May 14, 2008)

*lights for sale*

hello scar i found your link to classifieds but it was a dead end, would be keen to buy a double cree and ssc can you let me know if you still have some for sale please.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Amoebas at 24hrs of E-rock*

Went down to the 24 hours of E-Rock Friday night as I had a couple of customers running the Amoeba and wanted to make sure they had everything they needed. One raced the solo class and finished third! Way to go Nick. 223 miles ridden in 24 hours is just insane. The other customer, Jim, raced in the 3 person co-ed and they were set-up to finish first, way to go Jim and team. The Amoebas performed flawlessly for both riders. Weight of a light mounted to your helmet can be a real issue when riding solo. Nick used 4 of the 3hr batteries, carrying one as back-up in his jersey pocket thru out the night. Here are a couple of pictures that really describe the hell of 24 hour solo racing.

*First one is prerace. Psyched up and ready to tackle anything.*










*The second one is mid race. You can see the clock in the background going on 16 hours. You have got to wonder what was going thru his head at that moment.*


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

I bought an Amoeba a month or two ago and I love it.

I've been off-road night riding since 1986, 52 weeks a year, have owned everything from a Nice Lite! to the latest HIDs. I'm convinced the Amoeba is the way to go. Lightweight, powerful, simple, instant on/off, awesome customer service... if I had it to do over again I would get another Amoeba.

--Sparty


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## Tedfinder (Jul 6, 2008)

nice smoking light....


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## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

sweet stuff.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Hi, *Scar*, a question, use you 1 driver for both leds or 1 for each led?

Thanks

msxtr


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

msxtr said:


> Hi, *Scar*, a question, use you 1 driver for both leds or 1 for each led?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> msxtr


 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

hey Scar, check your PM's


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## bbgobie (Apr 20, 2006)

What connector are you using from the battery to the light?
is it water proof?


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## crank feen (Sep 25, 2008)

PM sent
Great Info! THANKS


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## Hack On Wheels (Apr 29, 2006)

bbgobie said:


> What connector are you using from the battery to the light?
> is it water proof?


I believe they are the Trailtech Connectors from Batteryspace.com.


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## kgardnez (Jan 31, 2004)

Wow, what a great thread! Great light Scar!

I'm looking for a winter project, so I'm wondering:
1. How do you bond the housings together?
2. Are you buying the tubing online? Pre-anodized or after assembly?
3. Where do you get the custom flood lenses?
4. What are you using to hold the clear cover in place?
5. What type of backing plate are you using for the LED?
6. I'd love some more shots of the components apart and being assembled (please PM them to me if you don't want to post them, then again your price is so great most people won't DIY unless they are into pain and suffering)


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## 02 FSR (Jan 23, 2006)

I am going to buy one of these. PM sent scar.:thumbsup:


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## Funrover (Oct 4, 2006)

After last night you will be getting an order before too long! Great lights


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## ourmondo (Sep 4, 2009)

Just demoed a spot (helmet) and flood (bar) setup last nite.Thanks Scar for setting us up on a beautiful night at apex. Full moon and elk bugling! Very impressed, both are on order right now!!


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## crashdude (Mar 29, 2007)

Just received my amoeba, all I can say is DAMN  this thing is small. I didn't think it was this tiny. Looks sweet just hope I don't lose it. Tonight will be my amoebas maiden voyage. I'm really impressed with the workmanship of this light. Thanks Scar:thumbsup:


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## Curtis C (Mar 28, 2009)

I am going to have to get with you guys on one of the night rides so I can check these out. Couple ?'s

Do you sell these at the rides?
Where are you getting the bar clamps?


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Hey Curtis C,
All my lights are made to order. You can get the mounts from BatterySpace or EL34 here in this forum sells them also.

Shoot me an email at [email protected]. We can talk.


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