# Star fangled nut removal



## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

Is it tough to remove them... I am looking to replace it with one of these 









just want to make sure there is nothing important to know before removing it...


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

Just use a screwdriver or drift and tap the SFN so that it turns on its side. Then put a hook through the threaded hole and pull the SFN out of the top of the steerer tube.


R.


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## bike_freak (Dec 24, 2003)

And if that fails - then drill it out


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

bike_freak said:


> And if that fails - then drill it out


lol.. that is what I was thinking.... thanks for your answers guys...


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## supercorsa (Jan 18, 2004)

depending on the inside of the steerer lower you might be able to just drive it all the way through and out the bottom.


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

supercorsa said:


> depending on the inside of the steerer lower you might be able to just drive it all the way through and out the bottom.


that sounds like it would do some damage...


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## supercorsa (Jan 18, 2004)

unless the steerer ID necks down towards the bottom it's no big deal at all, the same slight scoring above the starnut just goes all the way down. just mic out the steerer ID top and bottom first, if they are the same you're good to go.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

"Drilling" the star nut out is actually a really simple process:

(link) https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130067

It's not so much "drilling it out" as it is removing the short lip on the collar so the two halves can be separated.


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

Speedub.Nate said:


> "Drilling" the star nut out is actually a really simple process:
> 
> (link) https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130067
> 
> It's not so much "drilling it out" as it is removing the short lip on the collar so the two halves can be separated.


You da man. Thanks a lot.

yeah that seems much easier..


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## dtmartin46 (Jul 11, 2003)

*Head lock system*

Hey you should post your opinion on that Headlock you are putting in there.

I've been thinking of doing the same thing myself, i noticed that that planet X one is less expensive than the Azonic version.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

The headlock is much heavier than a SFN, but it really holds the front end together well.


R.


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

dtmartin46 said:


> Hey you should post your opinion on that Headlock you are putting in there.
> 
> I've been thinking of doing the same thing myself, i noticed that that planet X one is less expensive than the Azonic version.


Will do... the azionic got a perfect 5 score, but the planet X was never even rated.... I am on the fence now weather or not I should just spend the extra money, and go with the tried, and true azionic.. either way I will let ya know...


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## planetjag (Jan 16, 2004)

*Why?*

This may be a stupid question, but why bother?
If the SFN sits in there so tight (like it's meant to) that you need to stuff around to get it out, then it's doing its job pretty well, right?

Jonathan


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Not if you're trying to install a Hopey damper or an Azonic Headlock.


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

planetjag said:


> This may be a stupid question, but why bother?
> If the SFN sits in there so tight (like it's meant to) that you need to stuff around to get it out, then it's doing its job pretty well, right?
> 
> Jonathan


Steerer tube needed to be cut right where nut was. Figured I would replace it with the headlock.


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## Rickster (Feb 5, 2006)

*I'm I missing something?*



> Originally Posted by planetjag
> This may be a stupid question, but why bother?
> If the SFN sits in there so tight (like it's meant to) that you need to stuff around to get it out, then it's doing its job pretty well, right?
> 
> Jonathan


Similar question...the star nut doesn't do anything after the stem is tightened, it's just there so the headset bearings can be properly preloaded.


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## Number5 (Apr 24, 2006)

massmang said:


> Steerer tube needed to be cut right where nut was. Figured I would replace it with the headlock.


Well, if you are shortening the steerer and thus relocating the stem lower onto the steerer, then you could have just pushed the SFN down 15mm (or other depth if different) below the new cut of the steer tube. like somebody said previously, the SFN is only for bearing preload. The only good that comes from those fancy plugs or headlocks is reuseability and ease of instal/removal.


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## massmang (Apr 18, 2006)

Number5 said:


> Well, if you are shortening the steerer and thus relocating the stem lower onto the steerer, then you could have just pushed the SFN down 15mm (or other depth if different) below the new cut of the steer tube. like somebody said previously, the SFN is only for bearing preload. *The only good that comes from those fancy plugs or headlocks is reuseability and ease of instal/removal.*


Exactly.... Which is exactly the reason I want it... I don't feel like buying the special tool for the SFN

I am not a weight weenie so I could care less about the added weight..


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## Number5 (Apr 24, 2006)

Well if you didn't already remove it or for future reference... you don't need the SFN tool to insert the SFN. You can just thread the compression bolt into the SFN and tap (at the bolt's head) with a light hammer. Just be careful to keep the bolt/SFN square to the steer tube. I did this once before and I managed to keep the SFN square to the tube by inserting a large washer onto the bolt, measured 15mm from the bottom of the washer to the top of the SFN's threads and locked it all up with a nut threaded to the bolt and against the SFN. Then as I tapped down the SFN...
(or SFN/nut/compression bolt/washer assembly), the SFN remained square o the steer tube as the washer began to seat against the top end of the steer tube. I have a drawing for this homemade remedy.


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