# Told bike wasn't worth upgrading.



## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

So a few months back I bought a Cannondale catalyst 3 from my Lbs. I've put a couple hundred miles on it and have thought about upgrading a few things mainly the fork because I'm a heavy rider at 220lbs. I went back to them and started asking questions and was basically told my bike is not even worth a fork upgrade and that I need a 2k dollar bike to ride any decent trails. Can anyone make any recommendations and hopefully I haven't wasted 500 dollars on bike.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

There's long-term and short-term. If you know you'll be riding long-term start demoing and thinking about an end of season 35% off Labor Day deal on a 2500 bike. It'll be down below 2k. Find the bike and your size and see how many the Manufacturer has in the warehouses. Be ready with cash. You'll save yourself money on a very good bike and you'll avoid making it more expensive with wasted money you've paid for interim models.

If you aren't there yet spend $149 on an XCR air fork through the Suntour Upgrade Program. But that's all. 27.5 hardtail isn't a long-term platform. 27.5+ much more so.
SR Suntour North America


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## luvdabeach2001 (Nov 11, 2011)

*Upgrade your LBS. *

If they sold you the bike and are NOW telling you it isn't worth upgrading they didn't do their job in the beginning. I don't know if the bike is worth upgrading or not but you should have known before you left the store.


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## emjayel (Apr 21, 2007)

First and foremost, it's your bike. Do and spend what you want on it! If a new fork makes you more excited about throwing your leg over the top tube, then go for it...but new grips or a $50 cyclocomputer might be a cheaper route. Or a nice saddle.

If you are an overweight 220, then perhaps you'd be better served to use the bike as it is to lose the weight. Then you can use the fork money to make other changes in your life toward that goal! Weighing 190 is going to do more for your biking enjoyment than a new fork ever will. Guaranteed.

You don't need no stinkin' $2k bike. What a crock. Ride your bike. Have fun!

Rather than upgrade the fork, perhaps there is a stiffer spring Suntour offers for your weight class. That would likely help if you are bottoming out (I'm assuming you've done any setup on the fork that's needed/possible).


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

eb's advice is likely spot on in many regards - you don't need to spend $2000 to get a decent bike, but it would need to be an $800 bike that is on the heavy-but-rugged side with the whole build, or a $1200 range bike before you can hit up hardcore trails if you ride heavy on the bike. [I'm talking cash-in-hand end of year discount at retail bike shops - which is reflective of what bikes are actually worth before any depreciation happens].

If you're on cross-country and reasonable trails, and don't ride abrasively/heavy on the parts of the bike (I know myself well enough to realize I'm remarkably hard on componentry - be honest with yourself about this) then what you have with an air sprung fork will do perfectly (or running a stiffer coil in your current one - but to be honest upgrading fork damper performance is too important to ignore if you're going to step up the usage, or spend money on it anyway).

If you're a 'quad-rosaurus rex', then the crankset is liable to break on you - and the combination of replacing those two things puts you at 80% of the way to a new bike. Separate issue, but I've never had a square taper crank system last more than a few weeks of hard riding, but that's for me. I'm probably an outlier, thus YMWV, but it is something to consider.

The reason you're hearing 'not worth upgrading' is that taking a bike over steep and gnarly stuff starts to ask a lot out of the fork, brakes, wheels, and tires really fast. Forks are relatively cheap to upgrade... budget wheels are good but there's a lot to learn in order to get appropriate ones that will last - ditto on tires... and if the bike doesn't come with adequate brakes then that's just big added cost.

As a rider who is even heavier than you, the frustrating part is that it would only take about $100 of up-speccing the original build by the manufacturer 
(spend $20 more on brakes, $40 more on the fork, $10 more per tire, and spec $15 better rims with a $10 nicer saddle), but buying complete replacements for each item is a really steep climb, and you have a garage full of useless parts intended for somebody 70lb lighter.
Considering net costs, even optimistically, (brake sets run $180, forks run $250, tires run $60, wheelsets run $180, saddles are $40) once you've bought new fork/wheelset/tires/brakes(if needed) on top of the original bike price, you may have spent $1000, whereas selling what you have for a steep loss then buying a new bike can leave you money ahead (as lame as that is).

For now, figure out what kind of riding you do, what kind of riding you want to do, and figure out what sorts of trails you enjoy most. If they're relatively flat and flow oriented, a fork which matches your weight with performance and an air spring will probably suffice - maybe add some better tires, but then you'll be there. If you're looking to progress to trickier terrain and ride larger elevation deltas - that's when upgrading can start to cost more than just starting over.

--
Unrelated, but a list for posterity on what I've found doesn't fly for budget bikes with aggressive clydsedale riders

Fork - Go Air Sprung. The small 28mm stanchion coil forks are just all kind of lame, air sprung is the answer
Drivetrain - Get clear of the square-taper cranksets, as those will just get destroyed. Deore/X5 stuff will totally do
Brakes - Hydraulic Disc - the Shimano Acera/Deore range are the best value for money, period, but something that works well. Avid Elixir 1's work great, when they work (if you have a good local shop, have them bled, and put 180mm rotors and then they're excellent brakes)
Wheels - Honestly, expect most wheels on <$1000 bikes to be placeholders - nice and round until one bad rock encounter
Tires - Better tires that are better suited to the terrain you ride on are almost a default expectation, but budget for better ones


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## hamsterspam (Sep 28, 2014)

when i started learning how to mountain bike i ended up getting a rigid steel singlespeed,i feel like i had to learn everything from the ground up that way,theres no cheating on a singlespeed,no giant dinner plate 50 tooth cogs to bail to..and rigid means you really need to ride a clean line...i had to ride it geared 32/22 for a long time until i got stronger,but i did after much suffering,and even got to really enjoy riding singlespeed.it gave me a really solid base for more aggressive bikes down the line...


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

First off. What trail(s) do you ride? You mentioned the fork. What don't you like about it? No damping? Bottoming out? Or are you getting told stuff by people you either ride with, etc?

If you're just concerned about it without any real gripes, then the fork's not the problem.

Sure, an upgraded fork will be better (upgrades are always better, right?), but with a 27.5" wheel, 75mm and straight 1-1/8" steerer tube, it would be a challenge to find something that would fit better than what's already on it (Suntour M3030-27 fork).

The Cannondale USA home page lists the bike at $480 MSRP. It is an entry level bike in all regards.

Why don't you just keep riding it? The thing the LBS was trying to tell you is that any reasonable upgrade will not make economic sense given the low MSRP of this bike.

Just as an exercise of numbers... through the Suntour upgrade program, an XCR air fork will be $149 (probably not going to get a better deal than this anywhere else). That's 31% of the MSRP of your entire bike. 

With cars, if a car requires repairs that cost more than the car is worth, the insurance company cuts it's losses and "totals" the car.

It's your bike. If you'd like, you can spend endless amounts of money to upgrade the bike, but at the end of the day, your cranks are bottom end, as well as your wheels. As far as drivetrain is concerned, I haven't seen an 8 speed cassette since the 90's.

You've already rode a couple hundred miles on the bike, so I'm assuming you haven't hurt yourself on it due to the limitations of the bike, so just keep on truck'n.

Most of us here have been in the same situation. My first mountain bike was nicknamed "the bike of death". I rode it until I saved enough money to get something a lot better in the used market. Only after riding it a whole bunch, did I figure out what I like and didn't like (or so I thought). 

I found this place and educated myself on components, bikes, frames and geometry. Then I got another bike (used). It was a good bike, but wasn't a good fit for the style of riding I wanted to do. So, I spend more than what I paid for the bike for a new fork, rear shock, wheels, etc, only to find a great deal on a frame a little while later.

It happened by chance, but once I built up that frame, I'd realized what I really wanted all along. Good thing the upgraded parts fit the new frame (except for the rear shock, which I still have stashed somewhere in the garage).

The point is (in case it isn't clear through all my jabbering), unless there is some safety issue with your fork/bike, you should just ride it as-it-is and enjoy the sport.

As for the "bike of death", I gave it to my brother in law who rode it (very carefully) for about a year until he was able to save up on his ideal bike. He benefited from my mistakes.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The spec sheet for the catalyst indicates it's an entry level bike. Parts are appropriate for entry level trails. They are strong and heavy. But they work. I'd go ahead and get a better fork because the stock fork is pretty bad for trails. Only you can say if money is better spent on a good suspension fork, a rigid steel fork, or a better bike. 

If this bike is used on smooth trails, I'd get a rigid steel fork for $50 and put the rest of the money towards a new bike. If you are happy with the bikes performance and just want better handling, a new suntour raidon or XCR air fork will be a really good upgrade. If you want to ride trails more seriously, I'd get a rigid fork for this bike (because it's still a good bike to ride around and exercise on) and look at a better second bike.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

If this were me, I'd upgrade with the Suntour program, and make sure saddle, pedals, and bars/bar grips were perfectly to my liking, and then ride the heck out of it. In fact, those 3 contact points need to be dialed-in on any bike to have the best possible ride. 

When you decide to sell, you could put the original, unused, fork back on it if the upgraded fork is showing wear. (Unless the Suntour program makes you trade? No idea. I ride a rigid SS, I'm roadie who wants to learn good habits on a simple mountain-bike. At least for now).


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## TSpice (May 15, 2015)

Eh, there are only two reasons a LBS would tell you it isn't worth upgrading...

1. The upgrades you plan on doing, parts and labor, would be greater than 50% of the cost of flat out buying a bike with the same specifications you are trying to upgrade to. So say it costs you $500 parts and labor to modify your current bike, when it may only cost you say $750-800 to flat out buy a brand new bike that has the same features.

2. They are just trying to get money out of you, and you should find a new LBS. 


My personal opinion is that it generally isn't worth swapping components until you start getting higher end bikes. I know plenty of people still do it, but as the LBS mentions, in most cases it is likely better bang for your buck to just get a better overall bike. I think the only time it may be worth nickle/diming your way up to a nicer rig is if your frame is already rock solid. (So if you got the base component set on a high end frame? It is worth slowly upgrading all of the components up. If you have an all around low end bike, eventually you will get to the point where all of your components are upgraded, but your frame is still low end. That point you can't do anything but upgrade the frame, which is basically a new bike.)

As for "the LBS failed to put you on the correct bike the first time," it kind of depends on what you needed at the time of the sale. It is pretty frequent where newer riders will get a bike, think it is absolutely awesome, and the LBS did their job. After a few rides, they realize they wanted something else. That isn't the LBS's fault.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

^^^ THIS. I'd upgrade the fork through suntour. Than find grips, saddle and pedals you like. They can go on your next bike if you buy another.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

I guess my biggest complaints with the fork is dampening it's like having a pogo stick under me. Also I bottom out pretty regularly. I have done some small upgrades to it already such as saddle, pedals, bike computer, and a new rear tire. I also replaced the rear derailer with an alivo because I broke the tourney the first time I rode blankets creek. The only other thing I was looking at for the time being was ditching the 3x8 and going with a 1x9 or 10 since I only use the biggest ring anyways. And as far as the catalyst 3 being on the bottom end of it I thought I could atleast get it to the catalyst 1 specs since all share the same frame.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

And my biggest reason for choosing the 3 over the 1 or 2 was the color. Which hindsight may not have been the bestime way to look at it haha.


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## TSpice (May 15, 2015)

hunter2426 said:


> And my biggest reason for choosing the 3 over the 1 or 2 was the color. Which hindsight may not have been the bestime way to look at it haha.


You would be amazed how many choices, whether its upgrades/downgrades, are made with the primary driving force being cosmetics.

Also FYI, black bikes are faster. Internet science proven.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Yeah, you're talking about changing enough stuff that it kinda defeats the purpose.

Saddle, pedals, computer, and tires I don't consider "upgrades" per se. The computer is just an accessory you can put on any bike. Saddle and pedals are contact points (along with the grips) and are fit components. You can upgrade them strictly speaking, but you have to make the bike comfortable to enjoy riding it.

As for changing the fork and the drivetrain, now you're looking at some real money. As for the fork, look at the Suntour upgrade program. It's as affordable as you'll find. For the drivetrain, the time to make changes would have been when you broke your tourney rear derailleur. Now you have a new Alivio that works. Just ride it for what it is until you wear out or break something else. But the drivetrain change is going to cost more than the Suntour fork upgrade. And that's really why your shop is poo-pooing the idea. I know the bike you have, and you're effectively talking about putting just as much money into upgrades as you spent on the bike to begin with. Shoulda just bought a better bike to start with.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

TSpice said:


> Also FYI, black bikes are faster. Internet science proven.


nononono, blue bikes are faster. because Strava.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

Yeah I do wish I had saved up a little longer but I was eager to get back in the saddle.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The stock suntour fork is a glorified pogo stick. Once you realize it's junk, it's time for a good fork (or new bike). The suntour upgrade program is good. I also like the rockshox recon silver as the lowest quality good fork (hydraulics, 32mm stanchions, air cartridge, metal bushings). Steel stanchions for strength and longevity, but with a slight weight hit over the suntour raidon. Rockshox is easily serviced too, while the suntour forks are not.

Going to a 9-speed is pointless. No benefit this day & age unless it's OEM. Go to 10-speed, or stick with the 3x8. IMO, doing a drivetrain upgrade should only be done once parts are wearing out on the 3x8 or you plan on using the 3x8 drivetrain on another bike. Otherwise, it's not worth it cost wise, and you might as well just pony up for a new bike that has what you really want. I'd still keep the catalyst with a rigid fork on it though. Rigid steel forks are fun for road/smooth trails.


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## TSpice (May 15, 2015)

hunter2426 said:


> Yeah I do wish I had saved up a little longer but I was eager to get back in the saddle.


While it sucks, it isn't necessarily a bad thing either.

It is almost impossible to know what you DON'T like until you get stuck riding with it. This is why demo days, or test riding a friends bike is hugely beneficial.

Internet reviews these days are almost useless as just about every nit picky part of a bike anymore has people saying it is the best thing in the world, or the biggest waste of cash. How can it be both?

So nobody likes to spend money only to realize they made a bad choice, but now you are enlightened with the knowledge of what you know you don't like and what you will look for in a new bike.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

Harold said:


> nononono, blue bikes are faster. because Strava.


I must argue this point as it would be Orange for Strava  - Probably the only time I would argue against Harold though -

OP, I went through the same process but I bought 2 bikes before I knew what I needed/wanted. My suggestion is the Suntour upgrade and ride it till you are ready for your next big purchase. Maintain it well so you can still sell it to finance the next purchase.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Entry-level bikes are good to find out what you like, and what you don't. You can swap-out saddles, grips, etc., until you find what you want, transfer to a new bike later when you understand more, and spend the money for a higher-end rig, then. It's an inexpensive way to get into riding, quickly. 

Chances are, had you spent more, there would have been issues you wanted to correct, too. Just avoid spending very much. Take the time to stop at a lot of bike shops, learn about the higher end models, and buy when you know what you want, and are ready financially. When it's time to sell your current ride, you can probably get a decent price for it. Cannondale is recognizable to someone searching for a used, entry-level bike.  Just keep all stock parts. Even the saddle, etc.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

hunter2426 said:


> I have done some small upgrades to it already such as saddle, pedals, bike computer, and a new rear tire. I also replaced the rear derailer with an alivo because I broke the tourney the first time I rode blankets creek. The only other thing I was looking at for the time being was ditching the 3x8 and going with a 1x9 or 10 since I only use the biggest ring anyways. A


This is one where you'll want to be honest with yourself - are you going to be swapping parts around no matter what? Is there an advantage to being able to roll funds into biking month to month (or is dropping a lump sum on a whole bike not a problem)? What is your 'end point' trail that you're looking to ride for the forseeable future? Harold nailed exactly what I was on about, much more concisely. If your LBS sees that you're going to spend another $500 on this bike, they know that you'd be happier spending $900 on a new bike and selling what you have, which also works out a lot better for them.

A bike that you think looks awesome is one you'll ride, and the most consistent indicator of being good on a bike is time spent riding it; in that regard there's nothing wrong with choosing by color.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

One thing I was thinking about was if I spend 500 dollars on a nice groupset or shock or something can't I take it to another bike if I find a better frame?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

hunter2426 said:


> One thing I was thinking about was if I spend 500 dollars on a nice groupset or shock or something can't I take it to another bike if I find a better frame?


Sometimes.

But here's the thing - there's a lot of stuff that might not work, or wouldn't be right for a different frame.

Take the fork for example. You'll need to cut the steerer tube on that fork for the bike you put it on. The travel will be optimized for the bike you buy it for now. The next frame might have a steerer tube too long to use that fork. Or the next frame might be built around totally different travel length.

And as far as drivetrains go, drivetrain components wear out. Used cassettes and chains aren't often worth swapping to a different bike. Cranksets might, if they're really nice ones. That leaves the derailleur(s) and shifter(s). If that's all you think you'll swap over, again, not worth it. I did a frame swap for my road bike a number of years ago. The bike was originally a singlespeed, so there were fewer components to deal with. I was able to move everything to the new frame, but I needed more parts (since I was adding gears). I built the original bike from the frame up (starting from scratch), so none of the components on it were cheap. They were all worth moving to a new frame. A major consideration for you will be the wheels. Frame, wheels, suspension. Those are the "big 3" most expensive parts for a mountain bike. It's one thing to do a swap for just one of the items on that list. If you're talking about swapping 2 or all 3, it's probably better to start over when it's time to do so.

I started mtb riding on a bike less expensive than yours. It was $300, a rigid steel bike. I rode it as-is for awhile. After a bit, I put a $160 suspension fork on it. It was cheap suspension, but it helped some. After that, I didn't mess with it. I rode that bike. In fact, I rode it into the ground. I went to a completely different bike after that. I was able to keep that bike in service in one way or another for quite some time, but I only rode it hard as a mtb for a few years before buying a better mtb. That third mtb was a platform worth a little more fiddling. I changed a number of components over the years and rode it hard for 11 years before selling it to my cousin and buying a new bike. All of my mtb's have been very different bikes from each other. Moving parts between them would be impractical or downright impossible (especially with my most recent mtb).


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

When I worked in bike shops, the worst kind of perfect storm was the budget-consious, big rider. A bike with a flimsy fork, cheap drivetrain, heavy/soft wheels and lousy brakes will work well for a period of time relative to the rider's weight, all other things constant. At 220 pounds, the bike shop should have tried to sell you a burlier bike. If they did and you dug in with your budget, there's a lesson to learn there.

I have had more than one customer balk at the proce of the bike i recommended and buy something cheaper, only to return after several hard rides complaining of wobbling wheels, untrustworthy brakes, a noodily fork, etc. It took every bit of self control I had to not say "I told you so."


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

Drivetrain upgrade is a waste unless it's actually in need of replacement. 

Shock upgrade program sounds decent, but I personally would hunt down something used and higher level. 

Other than that, ride the hell out of it and when enough stuff is worn out/broken, then replace it with a full-bike upgrade.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Aside from your weight, it sounds like you're where I was in 2009. You're riding a bike that is going to have one problem or another until you've replaced most of the stock build but you're not in a place where you can cut your losses and spend $1500 on a do-over.

I won't say that replacing everything on my Hardrock was an efficient way to get to a nice bike but it meant I was out riding when I might not have been if I held out until I'd reinvented myself and had more money. Which took another four years. And I actually still ride the Hardrock. I keep it at work for lunch rides and occasional errands, and I may turn it into a trailer puller or put my wife onto it. So the money hasn't been wasted.

My advice would be to be disciplined about your upgrades. Only do the ones you really need to, when you need to. Then, do them like you mean it - don't get parts you'll be okay with for"a season or two." Think 5+ years.

A good fork is a great upgrade. If your drivetrain is currently working, IMO, leave it alone.

Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

I understand where you are coming from OP. I started out (30 days ago) on a Rockhopper 29er and was running singletrack with it. I would run the track at least 2-3 times a week for a month and started to realize that I would benefit from a FS. My family rides the same track on FS and they told me my riding skill wasn't bad on a hardtail and to keep practicing to get better. They also recommended I find a used FS bike for my body pains. I had really bad pains on my body from riding pretty hard on the trails here. All my pains were pre-existing (from military service) and didn't realize a hardtail would aggravate it more. With my FS bike, I can actually get out and enjoy the ride and be a bit more aggressive. 

In my opinion, I think you should stick with what you have and ride it until you are ready for a full upgrade. At the same time, try to lose some weight (I know I have to!) and start building up your rainy day fund to buy a new bike a year or so from now. Consider it a treat for losing weight and working on your riding skills on your Catalyst!


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

I generally see no problem upgrading any bike... as long as the upgrades can be kept and transferred to another bike at a later time. Thats how ive done it, and ive saved thousands and thousands of dollars. 

Unfortunately... you've got a 27.5 bike with a straight head tube. Bikes dont come like that anymore. If it was a tapered frame, hey sure throw a fork at it! If you want to upgrade later, take the fork with you to the new frame. Some of my higher end parts have been on 2 or 3 frames now. 

You dont want to get into a situation where you poured a bunch of money into a bike, and then the whole bike gets sold off and you totally lose your ass.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

One problem with buying parts thinking you will use them on the next bike is that stuff wears,by the time you get the next frame they may need to be replaced anyway. Another thing standards change ,so they might not fit . It's cheaper to buy a complete bike most times.


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## Rhodyman (Aug 7, 2015)

eb1888;12683695
If you aren't there yet spend $149 on an XCR air fork through the Suntour Upgrade Program.
[URL=http://www.srsuntour.com/upgrade/ said:


> SR Suntour North America[/URL]


I agree with this. I swapped the stock XCT fork for a Rockshox Gold ($200) on my Giant Talon 29er and it totally transformed the ride. Now it handles all the rocky, rooty New England single track I can throw at it. Swap the fork and have a blast!!


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I'd be cautious about the idea of buying parts to transfer.

I bought my Hardrock before 29ers hit it big, head tubes changed, or bottom brackets on mountain bikes got a bunch of new standards. Since all of those things have happened, the wheels and fork aren't going anywhere.

It did cross my mind to strip it and build a 29er at one point. But all I'd have been able to move over is the drivetrain. Once I'm into buying the frame, wheels and suspension, I figure I may as well buy a new complete bike.

That won't necessarily happen again. But it could. And the hub standards thing seems very much in flux at the moment. So I'm disinclined to buy anything I feel I need to put on another bike later to get my value from. I also feel like I'm continuing to get value from keeping the Hardrock maintained - it's worth more to me as a complete bike than as a pile of parts.

Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk


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## Gravityaholic (Aug 15, 2014)

*XCR only available for 24" on Upgrade program.*



eb1888 said:


> If you aren't there yet spend $149 on an XCR air fork through the Suntour Upgrade Program.
> SR Suntour North America


The XCR fork available with the upgrade program is only for 24" wheels


XCR LO 24 AIR $149.95

He would have to get at least the Raidon at 199$


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

No one has mentioned trade-in programs. A lot of shops will give you a good deal if you trade and upgrade. But that depends on what you want, and your budget.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

There's another member going through this same thing (upgrade-itis) on the Drivetrain forum.

OP, unless you have deep pockets, just ride your bike and build up your skills.

I looked up Blankets Creek and saw youtube videos of Dwelling Loop. Is that where your are riding? Looks like a really fun/fast XC trail. I bet it would be super fun on a rigid single speed 29er.

Doesn't look like there's anything on the trail that can't be mitigated by going slower though...

If you enjoy the sport, you'd should be able to enjoy it with any bike.

Upgrade if you want, but my standard advice for anyone in this situation is to obtain the proper tools and learn how to maintain/upgrade the bike yourself. Then you can save on labor costs and shop around for the best prices for components.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

tk1971 said:


> I bet it would be super fun on a rigid single speed 29er.
> 
> Doesn't look like there's anything on the trail that can't be mitigated by going slower though...
> 
> If you enjoy the sport, you'd should be able to enjoy it with any bike.


I was thinking that, too. Love my SS.

A Kona Unit SS sells for a grand. I considered it, but ended up on a Krampus. The Kona is a solid bike for the price. (I think there is also a Big Unit, which is sturdier, and available only as a frame-set, but that Unit is solid. I don't know the weight-limit, though. 220 isn't huge, just not small).

Something you may not know, a lot of bike shops have layaway.

KONA BIKES | 2016 BIKES | ORIGINALS | Unit


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

The raidon was the fork I was looking at. Which since it has been brought up would it be a big jump from the M3030?


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

After reading everyone's responses on here I think I'm gonna take yall's advice and start putting money back for a better bike but in the meantime I am going to go with a fork upgrade. Just gotta get the best bang for my buck.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

hunter2426 said:


> After reading everyone's responses on here I think I'm gonna take yall's advice and start putting money back for a better bike but in the meantime I am going to go with a fork upgrade. Just gotta get the best bang for my buck.


That sounds like a plan. 

What kind of bike do you have in mind for next time? Or are you going to start looking?


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

I looked at the giant stance but after seeing other posts about Craigslist finds I think searching used is my best option.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

Personally, I'd rather ride a rigid fork than a cheap pogo-stick fork. I don't see any 27.5" rigid forks on Nashbar, but you can look at this thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5/27-5-rigid-fork-options-882722.html

$50 for a rigid is less than $150 for a better but still so-so fork. You should look up the reviews for the XCR fork and see if there are any issues with heavier riders, adequate damping, etc.

You may even get away with a 26" or 29" rigid disc fork as long as the Axle to Crown length matches your existing fork's A-C.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

I think

you should ride the bike you have as it is

and keep riding it

replace or fix stuff when it breaks or fails to work correctly 

over time and with riding a lot, you'll sort out the what to get next

but right now, run what ya brung
and beat the living crap out of it by riding

just lube that chain like there is no tomorrow and go nuts


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Current fork options for the catalyst: 1 1/8" steer tube, QR axle, disc brake, 27.5"

Nashbar rigid steel: (I have one on a old 26" steel bike) nice steel fork, comparable AC length to a 27.5" fork (almost the same after you account for sag). Blast of black chrome paint, and it would look good with the catalyst. Normally can be bought for $40 when nashbar does a 20% off sale, which is quite often.
Nashbar Rigid 26" Mountain Bike Fork

Suntour upgrade:
The Raidon for $200 is a great deal. It does have an air cartridge, which is adjustable for your weight. Considering you're a heavier rider, this does make a huge difference. Highly recommend a fork with an air cartridge. It's not as servicable as other fork brands, but it is a set it and forget it fork that performs well for a couple years.

Rockshox XC32 air. $160 online.

Rockshox Recon Silver (what I use): $180-200 online when on sale. Have to look for them though. air cartridge, rebound damping, 32mm steel stanchions. Stiff fork that works well for big riders. Uses metal bushings while the XC32 uses plastic bushings that wear out after a couple years. Easily serviced, and will last years and years

Ebay: Suntour XCR fork with remote lockout for $100-150. Hydraulic damping, 32mm stanchions. Coil spring, so it's not weight adjustable, which means you're stuck with a weaker spring than you want or you have to buy a replacement spring.

I'd go rigid steel or the raidon upgrade. If you do the raidon upgrade, you could probably sell it down the road when you buy a new bike.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

Well I definitely want to go with suspension. I also failed to mention I have rode the piss out of the 92 giant Sedona that I have which is why I upgraded to the catalyst. Between the air shocks you listed what do you think the better shock is?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Have you ridden a rigid bike with full-sized MTB tires?

For disclosure, I'd rather have suspension on my usual trails. But I found it an eye-opening experience. It's way smoother than riding, say, a 'cross bike off -road, which I do a few times a season. And the way a rigid mountain bike tracks compared to a crappy suspension fork is an eye opener. I find it's also not limiting in terms of ledges I can ride off or rock gardens and root beds I can ride through, though I do have to do those slower.

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

rigid is fun, but suspension doesn't have the huge pucker factor when you start going over a rock garden. When you only have room for a single bike, suspension fork. Multiple bikes, have to have a rigid in the stable.

Arguing between the rockshox recon silver and raidon boils down to easier serviceability + heavy weight with the rockshox vs. slightly better fork with the raidon. As a clyde, I'd rather have the recon (it's friggin bulletproof). For a lightweight racer, the raidon would probably be better.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

I'd choose whichever has better damping. Springs can be changed for rider weight. A spring fork can be very good, i.e. Plush, linear, predictable, etc. just heavier than air.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

I'm familiar with the Dwelling Loop at Blanket's and I would not ride it rigid though I'm sure plenty of people do. There are some spots on it that are pretty rough. This is from a guy that rides an 80mm hardtail on these trails as well as 100mm SS. And if you ride the South Loop at Blanket's, it is known for being rocky and rooty. It is an old style hand-cut trail. Having said that, I started on a rigid bike back-in-the-day and rode it on trails rougher than either of these, and came back home bleeding a lot. Also had to do more hike-a-bike. But I was a lot younger then and suspension was kind of a newer thing.

chaz


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

post specs of your bike, i don't look up cannondales 


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

cjsb said:


> post specs of your bike, i don't look up cannondales
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


http://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=261299fe-04ae-4ed6-a934-375293b438c8

Not sure if same year but that's what I found. Why the neg. on C'dales? just wondering?


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

Yeah its a 2016.


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## oneupme (Jan 4, 2016)

Another vote to not upgrade anything, just sell it and buy a different used bike. This is your best choice to minimize overall expenditure.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

There is nothing wrong with that bike, per se, for a beginner, except if the fork has poor rebound damping and the rider happens to be heavy. If the rider is very heavy it helps a lot to have an air spring and real rebound damping. If this is you OP then perhaps that fork trade-in program or a used fork from eBay or Pinkbike will suit your fancy?

It is a bit of a bummer if the same shop sold you the bike recently now tells you don't upgrade. personally, I tend to agree, but I would not have sold you that bike either. I would ask them to seriously consider taking the bike back and selling you another one, if you can afford a more expensive one. If you can't afford it then your options are upgrade fork, rigid fork, or think about selling this bike and getting a used hard tail.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

If I scored a bike like that for my son, let's say... I'd do a rigid fork and b+ the front wheel and 1 or 2 by ten the drivetrain. That can be done fairly inexpensively. 
Salsa Enabler fork would probably work fine for that.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

If you decide to take the used bike route, something like below could be decent for starters and it mght be close to a wash if you sell your bike?

2004 Specialized Stumpjumper comp For Sale


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

cjsb said:


> If you decide to take the used bike route, something like below could be decent for starters and it mght be close to a wash if you sell your bike?
> 
> 2004 Specialized Stumpjumper comp For Sale


$85.00 shipping is a great price. When I sell a bike, the buyer has to pay for packaging from a LBS, and shipping. Usually around $160.00. Plus, looks like the bike shop tuned it, first. Nice.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Muirenn said:


> $85.00 shipping is a great price. When I sell a bike, the buyer has to pay for packaging from a LBS, and shipping. Usually around $160.00. Plus, looks like the bike shop tuned it, first. Nice.


I agree on the shipping cost being a good deal, and it sounds like the bike is being sold by a shop. They probably won't budge on the price of the bike, which is okay those were very solid bikes back then. for someone just getting started you would have much better setup and as long as you weren't abusing the bie, it should last until you are ready to move on.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

And resale wouldn't be too bad. Only out shipping, plus maybe $100. Buy a new beginner bike, and $200 gets knock off once you get it out the door.


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## sjmilin (Apr 7, 2016)

I definitely wouldn't upgrade it and I would buy use but I certainly wouldn't get anything older than 2010, but that's just me. I bought my first bike last year after a lot of friends were pressuring me to get into the sport which is huge in my area, kept wanting to go with a budget bike through bikesdirect but a lot of my friends highly suggested that I don't and that they were basically a tiny step up from a walmart bike.

I ended up getting a 2012 Santa Cruz Superlight on Craigslist for $775 after a lot of hunting. Got absolutely hooked on the sport, sold it for almost as much as I paid for it this year, and just bought a Giant Trance SX which is way too much bike for me but I figured buy the bike for the rider I want to be and not the rider I currently am... and couldn't be happier.

Craigslist is definitely the way to go if you can't afford something new in the 2k price.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

With me driving from Savannah to Atlanta every week for work I should be able to find something awesome used. I've seen a lot of good bikes on craigslist the only problem has been finding a small frame. Here is a picture of the Cannondale and my old Giant Sedona.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

How tall are you? I live about 50 miles from Savannah, could keep an eye out.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

I'm 5'6 with about a 30 inch inseam. Thanks. I've been very impressed with this forum and never expected this many replies.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Did you get it from Quality Bikes? (Quality Bike Mike?).
I'm 5'7". So, you are looking at a men's small?


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

That is a $450 bike. The bike store has a point. Why buy upgraded forks for a bike that only cost a much as a nice set of forks?

If you think you like bikes now, I would not dump more money into this bike. I would start to plan for a 35% off sale and get a $2500 bike that is on sale for $1700.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

In August, QB's on Montgomery CrossRoads will order you a new Cannondale at the year-end price. It's a good discount. If you got it from there, call and talk to Mike, and tell him they sold you a bike that doesn't work for you, and ask about end of year trade-in for August.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

I did. They are the best store in Savannah. They have taught me a lot and been very helpful with me being such a newbie.


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## hunter2426 (Feb 13, 2014)

As stated earlier I think I am going to take their advice and ya'lls and just look for a good used bike instead of dumping more money into this bike.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

and you can keep the C'dale for ridding around when you can't get to the trails  If you don't need to sell it to finance the next one. My C'dale sold fast! and a bit above blue book which was surprising.  which I know BB is not the most accurate but ended making like $80.00 on it.


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## Aging Wannabee (Oct 22, 2004)

I know this thread is a few days old at this point, but I want to chime in: I work at a C-dale LBS and deal with new riders with sticker shock and lack of bike-ucation all the time. They sold you the bike at the price you wanted to pay. They probably tried, or wanted to, explain why a Catalyst 1 or a Trail or even a leftover Rush would be a better bike, but if a buyer doesn't understand, it sounds like salesdouch ********. Being a smart consumer you went low and "hedged your bet" in case you didn't catch the bug. Now that you have caught it your purchase wasn't wasted, but you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. You need to go buy some silk! Buying mid grade sow's ear (Suntour) won't get you the purse (bike) you want.

I say ride that sucker!!! If you are going to pay for upgrades I wouldn't waste any money on a $150 Suntour. I'd buy a high end lightweight airsprung fork from Fox or Rock Shox and keep the steerer tube longish to ensure it will fit on your next frame. I hope to god the Catalyst has a tapered head tube.... You can upgrade brakes and wheels (assuming you're going to stick with 27.5) with used cragislist/facebook/ebay parts, and get an education on compatibility while doing it. With wheels you have to be careful with hub standards. Brakes and rotors are IMHO fairly safe and a good place to start. Drivetrain upgrades at this point would require a full group (shifters, crank/chainrings, derailleur, cassette, chain) so I wouldn't bother.

In short, my advice is either ride the crap out of it and build skill/fitness, while you save bike-bucks or spend real money on upgrades that will transfer to a better, used frame. That thing may end up being your super fun Single Speed someday or a commuter, or something to get a buddy, child or wifey into the sport....


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

mack_turtle said:


> When I worked in bike shops, the worst kind of perfect storm was the budget-consious, big rider. A bike with a flimsy fork, cheap drivetrain, heavy/soft wheels and lousy brakes will work well for a period of time relative to the rider's weight, all other things constant. At 220 pounds, the bike shop should have tried to sell you a burlier bike. If they did and you dug in with your budget, there's a lesson to learn there.
> 
> I have had more than one customer balk at the proce of the bike i recommended and buy something cheaper, only to return after several hard rides complaining of wobbling wheels, untrustworthy brakes, a noodily fork, etc. It took every bit of self control I had to not say "I told you so."


#truth. Hard to explain that these things are not made for that rider in terms of usability/durability.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

I don't think is hard to explain per se, when you don't know, you don't know and the thought of spending $$$ on a bike which at that point is more of a "toy" is a difficult decision to make. I remember saying no way I'll spend $$$ on a bike, I didn't know why bikes were so expensive! After a couple of seasons it all makes more sense, and is no longer a "toy" but a good investment on fun/health. Like anything else, there is a learning curve.... this one is damn expensive BUT it doesn't have to be, to have fun. 

Gotta start somewhere.


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## kbat117 (Jun 18, 2016)

I have been told countless times by people from forums and one LBS that I need a 2k slack full suspension 130-150mm travel for my kind of riding if I want to enjoy it and not just struggle. I bet a 2k slack 130-150mm bike would be fantastic and I would enjoy it but I am getting a Raleigh Tokul 2 instead. I have rode XC hardtail almost exclusively and enjoy them for everything I do so a slack hardtail on a nice upgradeable frame is great. 

If you like your bike and how it fits, keep it. The Suntour upgrade fork could get you a new fork if you really wanted.


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## drummerider (Jun 16, 2013)

Building up the basic components of your Cannondale makes no sense economically unless you want to improve your bike mech skills. I think just riding is a lot more fun. But I'm curious what your front tire pressure is. It never ceases to amaze me how dialing in the right tire pressure on any bike improves control and builds confidence.


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## froze (Feb 5, 2011)

There are a lot of posts so I didn't read any of them so if this was already said I apologize. But when you said this: "I went back to them and started asking questions and was basically told my bike is not even worth a fork upgrade and that I need a 2k dollar bike to ride any decent trails." it didn't settle with me well at all. You need another LBS, that one is too elitist to be of any use! My god I rode challenging trails in the mountains of California on a $320 Giant Rincon that's a heavy hardtail and rigid fork bike and NEVER had a problem riding trails. While your bike is on the lower end of the scale in price in today's world I would not invest $500 into a bike that sold new for $500. If the fork is too heavy I would suggest just getting a rigid fork...yeah I know that's weird advice but then you would no longer have a heavy fork, you would never have any mechanical issues with poor internal suspension parts, and it would be cheap.

If you want to buy a new bike you don't have to spend $2,000 to ride trails, you can do that on your current bike and fork if the fork is functioning good. This place i'm going to give you has huge sales on MTB's and their really nice like the Niner brand, a store here would sell those for $4,000 to $5,000 and this place will sell it for $1,500, but you do have to get on their mail list and wait for a one day flash sale for a bike you think you'll like at the price you want. Transition Bandit 27.5 XT/SLX w/Easton Haven Wheels Build Kit | transition

But you don't have to buy a new bike unless you want to. You can get a strong Surly steel fork for under $100 that would weigh at least 1/2 as much as your current suspension fork. You don't need a suspension fork unless you'll be racing trails in which case you need a new $2,000 or so bike to get a better suspension fork and a more durable frame with better components, but all your doing is just riding trails get a rigid fork and save $400 on the cost of new suspension fork, and save roughly $1600 on the price of new bike. So find yourself another non elitist bike shop that can order you a rigid fork for your bike and install it for you, it might cost $50 to install at the most.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

I know the shop where the OP purchased their bike. In fact, I've bought a bike from them. (A cannondale Synapse, in 2008).

And...let's just say they are not quite as helpful to a newbie as they might appear. They have a tendency to mislead, even while being helpful.

I bought my 2013 CAADX from Affordabike, in Charleston. Didn't consider going back to the one (that I know of) C'dale dealer in Savannah. Just saying.


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