# Pivot Mach 4 XC build



## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Last Sept, I asked this board on which virtual/translating pivot or dual link full suspension frame to get for a light weight XC build. See the following link:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...tbr.com/showthread.php?t=1054689&share_type=t

I received many helpful answers, and finally settled on a Pivot Mach 4. Since that time, a number of XC-oriented dual link bikes have been launched (such as the SB100 and the Intense Sniper), although none of these take or are designed around 27.5" wheels.

I'll be documenting the build of this frame here. The frame size is XS.

Target weight is 22lbs. At this point, I think it is a realistic goal, but we'll see how I go.

First off, the frame:










Weight without the rear axle and the seatpost clamp is 2461g, or 5.4lbs. I think if I stripped all the bottle cage bolts, derailleur hanger and cable port covers, it might come down to the advertised "5.2lbs".

Seatpost clamp:










DT Swiss through-axle:










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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

For the controls, I went with a 50mm Wren stem and 680mm Mcfk 6 deg low riser bar. Bike24 had the latter on sale for €108, which I thought was a good deal.



















Headset duties are handled by Hope, simply because they make them in purple!



















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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Any recommendations for a dropper post? I saw some positive feedback here regarding the Bikeyoke Revive post.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

joeadnan said:


> Any recommendations for a dropper post? I saw some positive feedback here regarding the Bikeyoke Revive post.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Depends on your budget. If you can afford it, I say BikeYoke Revive or Fox Transfer, otherwise, Brand-X Ascend.

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

joeadnan said:


> Any recommendations for a dropper post? I saw some positive feedback here regarding the Bikeyoke Revive post.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's what I run, it's like butter and worth the weight. Most quality droppers weigh about the same, so there's nothing shocking here, but it would make the target weight a bit harder to reach. Mine is about 23.1 with the bikeyoke post, obviously significantly lighter without. I want to build up some flyweight type carbon wheels (~300g rims) this summer, which will probably get it back down around 22 with the entire build. I have a large 429SL, so bigger and heavier wheels all around.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

If you're interested, you can cut the weight in half for your thru axle and seatpost collar with some inexpensive eBay purchases. Plenty of bolt-on axles these days that will fit. The DT Swiss axle is obviously a well done piece of equipment, but hardly light.


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

22lbs with a dropper and 2461g frame? 

You have my attention.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Schulze said:


> 22lbs with a dropper and 2461g frame?
> 
> You have my attention.


A lot easier to do with 650b/27.5 wheels than 29er wheels, I'd say. And based on the size of the frame, probably a very light rider that can get away with correspondingly light parts.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Frame weight is disappointing, but you have a 115 DW bike and frankly I wished I had it instead of my http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/norco-rev-olve-r-build-weights-1033947.html I am currently at 21 pounds with Fox 34/120 (1780 grams), very light wheels (1180) and rigid post. Starting with one pound heavier frame 22 will be a bit hard with a drop post

But nice bike! Again, I wish the Pivot frame has a 142 rear and I'd swap it! :thumbsup:


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Subscribed. Thx for these great builds Joe!


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Le Duke said:


> If you're interested, you can cut the weight in half for your thru axle and seatpost collar with some inexpensive eBay purchases. Plenty of bolt-on axles these days that will fit. The DT Swiss axle is obviously a well done piece of equipment, but hardly light.


Thanks Duke. I've actually got a replacement seatpost clamp on order.

I'll have to do some research on the through-axle. The lack of standardization on these things is a bit daunting, and I fear the risk of buying something that might not fit the bike.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Davide said:


> Frame weight is disappointing, but you have a 115 DW bike and frankly I wished I had it instead of my http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/norco-rev-olve-r-build-weights-1033947.html I am currently at 21 pounds with Fox 34/120 (1780 grams), very light wheels (1180) and rigid post. Starting with one pound heavier frame 22 will be a bit hard with a drop post
> 
> But nice bike! Again, I wish the Pivot frame has a 142 rear and I'd swap it! :thumbsup:


The XS frame only has 100mm travel, as it happens.

The 2016 and earlier models are 142 but are otherwise identical. Might be worth looking if there are NOS frames available.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

The fork; uncut steerer:










With the steerer trimmed:










I would have preferred the black, as purple and orange is a bit of an acquired taste. But I theorize that the orange is lighter, because it doesn't absorb all the photons.










I hit a snag with the Wren stem. The heads on three of the bolts popped off sometime in the night, after I had installed the stem! I'll have to contact Wren about this. In the meantime I'll have to look for a temporary replacement.

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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Looks awesome. Subscribed. 

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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

joeadnan said:


> The XS frame only has 100mm travel, as it happens.
> 
> The 2016 and earlier models are 142 but are otherwise identical. Might be worth looking if there are NOS frames available.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ah! I did not realize it is the XS ... I am sort of looking around for a medium pre 2017 ...


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Installed the cranks this evening:

Raceface BB 









28T chainring









Next SL G4 cranks in 170mm (with lockring)









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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Progress so far:










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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Looking good there!!


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

I just complete a light weight (but not full on weight weenie) build on my 2018 Epic - Medium.

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/2018-epic-carbon-comp-build-out-upgrade-saving-3-lbs-1073925.html

I too went with an Orange Stepcast and would have rather had black. Strangely my Orange 2018 SC Boost is a few grams lighter (1365) than my 2017 black SC non-boost (1379). Could be more material removed for the axle spacing or product variation, steer tube length or just lighter paint..


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

JoePAz said:


> I just complete a light weight (but not full on weight weenie) build on my 2018 Epic - Medium.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/2018-epic-carbon-comp-build-out-upgrade-saving-3-lbs-1073925.html
> 
> I too went with an Orange Stepcast and would have rather had black. Strangely my Orange 2018 SC Boost is a few grams lighter (1365) than my 2017 black SC non-boost (1379). Could be more material removed for the axle spacing or product variation, steer tube length or just lighter paint..


Nice build Joe - just read your other thread.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

phlegm said:


> Nice build Joe - just read your other thread.


Thanks it was fun to build and even more fun to ride.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

JoePAz said:


> I just complete a light weight (but not full on weight weenie) build on my 2018 Epic - Medium.


Very smart build. Well done.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

This a close up photograph of the stem bolts from my Wren stem that popped their heads. Three of the 6 bolts failed in this way, two on the handlebar clamp and one at the steerer clamp. I had to hacksaw the latter out.










I tightened the stem snugly but not too tightly, as all I had wanted to do was to keep the fork in place while I was building the bike. When I returned to the bike the following day, these bolts had popped.

The crystalline surface of the break appears to suggest fatigue failure, but I am not an expert. I've written to Wren and am still waiting for a reply.

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

joeadnan said:


> This a close up photograph of the stem bolts from my Wren stem that popped their heads. Three of the 6 bolts failed in this way, two on the handlebar clamp and one at the steerer clamp. I had to hacksaw the latter out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No, that looks like overload, fatigue from a corrosion divot or flaw is a smooth surface that usually has scalloping marks, it will even look polished. There even looks to be a sheer-puck (overload give-away). That metal looks like it was pulled apart, usually (but not always) overload. Would need much closer up pictures of the surface to know for sure.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Here is a recent example exhibiting classic fatigue-crack signatures. The "wave" patterns where you get the circular or scalloped markings like tree-rings are where each load cycle has caused a crack to propagate further. These are what you are looking for with a fatigue failure. That doesn't rule-out a fatigue failure, but we'd have to get much closer in, perhaps with a scanning electron microscope, to really know, otherwise the signatures point to overload.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I see what you are saying, but there is no way I could have overloaded the bolts for the heads to pop off without first stripping the torque head or the aluminum threads in the stem.



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## VegasSingleSpeed (May 5, 2005)

T20 heads?
Yes, the heads of the small bolts can fail before the threads in the stem...the aluminum in the stem may have lower tensile strength, but the interface at the threads has much greater surface-area than the CSA of the bolt. Since you're just mocking everything up, I wouldn't expect you applied too much torque. The mechanism of failure might be interesting if this is not simply the case of a bad batch of fasteners.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

Yeah I agree on the overload failure rather than fatigue. Still there are lots of ways to get to overload failure. Over torque is just one method. Incorrect heat treat on the bolts or incorrect alloy on the bolts can impact strength. Same as some defect in the threads created from thread generation process.


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## Bradittude (Dec 8, 2011)

I have seen this happen with 2 wren stems I had, the bolts were torqued to 4 nm, and a buddy of mine had his do this to. I contacted wren and also sent the bolts and stems back, I have never heard from them what they found the cause to be. They offered to replace all the parts but I opted to get a refund, I simply could not trust a stem that I felt was unsafe.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

Bradittude said:


> I have seen this happen with 2 wren stems I had, the bolts were torqued to 4 nm, and a buddy of mine had his do this to. I contacted wren and also sent the bolts and stems back, I have never heard from them what they found the cause to be. They offered to replace all the parts but I opted to get a refund, I simply could not trust a stem that I felt was unsafe.


Funny you mention this. Just last night I installed a new Wren stem. I only torqued up to 5nm as I felt too uneasy going up to the website listed spec of 6....

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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

I was building an new HT XC race bike for my son over the winter and went with a Wren stem. Mounted up the stem and torqued the bolts too 4 NM. Thank god a did not have all the parts at that time to complete the build, because when I looked at the bike the next day, two of the face plate bolt heads were missing, 3 days later both steer clamp bolt heads went missing [when these let go they fire across the shop ]. Wren offered new bolts but my son is running Pro XC speed and likes big air, no way I could leave this stem on fearing his life or serious injury. Went with a Renthal Apex with Ti bolts. Wren was very good about taking the stem back and refunding my money. 
Wren has a serious issue with these new stems/bolts. I have one their original gloss black stems on my Fatbike and it has been great - no issues. Their new brushed matte finish looks like a cheap knock off and obviously they need to dumpster there new bolt supplier.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Although it's annoying because of the angle that the T-20 screws go into the lower-face place clamp and getting the handlebar back in to the groove when the cables are attached, the Ritchey WCS 260 is very light and uses a similar design. I can honestly say I have no issues torquing this thing and don't feel this is a liability in that same way. Taking the bar off though for the Evoc bike bag is annoying, because you kind of have to rotate the handlebar backwards and be real careful not to scratch it on the stem. It's light though and I've been on it for about 1.5 seasons. I'm on the 70mm, which is lighter than the 103g 100mm.


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## zinedrei (Apr 13, 2009)

thanks for these feedbacks.
was seriously considering to get a Wren stem but will try out Newmen instead.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Not much progress over the last week, which was just as well as it was a hectic work week.

The old seatpost clamp:










Replaced with:



















While I was at it, I decided to replace the star fangled nut. Anything that is installed with a hammer gives me the heebie-jeebies



















Only 3 gram difference in weight, but a world of difference in execution.

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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

Lookin good Joe. So what did Wren have to say, I could not get any info from them on their current issues.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

xc71 said:


> Lookin good Joe. So what did Wren have to say, I could not get any info from them on their current issues.


They are sending me new bolts. I'll be sending the broken ones to their contract manufacturer in Taiwan.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Plan B was a Newmen stem, 69g for the 50mm two bolt version.



















Second pic shows the spreader plate and dummy bolts.

The two bolt design makes it more troublesome to remove the handlebar, but it's lighter than the 4-bolt version. Only compatible with low-riser and flat bars, I would imagine.

If I have to pack the bike into a travel bag, then I'll have to remove the whole stem and place a dummy stem to hold the fork in place.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Still no sight of the rims. So no significant progress until then.

In the meantime, here are the weight of the drivetrain components. I've gone with 10-speed Shimano. I can get similar gear range at a slightly lighter weight.

SL-M980 right shifter









RD-M9000-gs









Shifter cable housing before trimming









The excess housing to be discarded









And finally, a 11-45T 10-speed Shimano-compatible Garbaruk cassette. Weight includes the lockring.









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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

The Garbaruk's are nice and at at good price. If they made an 11-34 11 speed I'd be all over it.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I picked up the rims yesterday.



















These are the flyweight version of the 22mm internal width rims from Light Bicycle

https://www.lightbicycle.com/XC-650...de-cross-country-rim-tubeless-compatible.html

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Finally got around to measuring the saddle height. The bad news is that neither the Fox Transfer 100 nor the Bikeyoke 125 will fit for my petite daughter.

Any suggestions for a shorter travel dropper?

The good news is that the bike will be lighter!




























The Fox Transfer is approx 7mm too long.

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

That blows. Just out of curiosity, you aren't trying to run the post "slammed" as far down as it will go, are you? What about a lower-profile seat?


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Jayem said:


> Just out of curiosity, you aren't trying to run the post "slammed" as far down as it will go, are you?


No, not at all. I measured the distance between the center of the B.B. to the seat rails on her present bike, and subtracted 10mm to account for the longer cranks. This translated to a 17.4cm exposed seatpost mast on the new frame. The measured max insertion depth on the Pivot is 17.5cm. Checking these numbers against the dimensions of the Fox and Bikeyoke dropper posts, I see that they won't work.



Jayem said:


> What about a lower-profile seat?


Yes, that did occur to me. Or thicker pedals!

What is the consensus about KS seatposts? Reliable?

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## tangerineowl (Nov 18, 2013)

Joeadnan,

Have a look through these dropper posts:- 
https://r2-bike.com/Seatpost-height-adjustable


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

tangerineowl said:


> Joeadnan,
> 
> Have a look through these dropper posts:-
> https://r2-bike.com/Seatpost-height-adjustable


Thanks Mr Owl. Looks like the 100mm KS Lev Integra will fit. I've ordered one from wiggle.com. There have been complaints about its remote though, so I might plump for a Wolf Tooth ReMote.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Due to unexpected holidays arising from a change in government, I was able to build the wheels.

Rear is 28H Tune Kong Boost Hubs laced with Sapim Super CX spokes, cross three.










Front is 24H laced cross two.










Very impressed overall with the Light Bicycle rims. They are really well made. I have no hesitation in recommending them. These are the second set of rims that I built up; the first I've been using on my SB5.










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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I've decided to go with 2.25" RoRos front and rear. Decent sized tyres which ought perform well in jungle singletrack.

I was surprised by the huge variation in weights though



















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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

A bit of whimsy for character










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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

I didn't post the scale shots of the wheel components. Here they are:

Front hub is a 24 hole Tune King 15mm with 100mm dropout spacing.










The spokes are Sapim Super CX-Ray. 24 spokes laced cross-two. Weight of 99g includes the nipples. Minus a couple of grams for the plastic bag










The rims are Light Bicycle 650B 22mm internal dimension flyweight versions. Claimed weight is 270g +/-15g. They were not listed as asymmetrical, but when they arrived they had stickers indicating drive/disc sides. This suggests that although the holes are drilled in the middle of the rim (no offset, all holes are in a straight line), the material in the rim is thicker on one side to account for asymmetric loads.










Final weight of the front wheel is 485g.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Rear rub is also Tune. 28 hole Kong Boost coming in at 221g. I went with a Shimano freehub, thinking that I would reuse the 11-42 10sp XT cassette + Wolftooth 42T cog that is on my daughter's previous bike. After ordering the hub, I was able to order the 10sp Garbaruk 11-45T cassette, which gave significant weight savings.

I am not certain if I could have saved further weight with a SRAM XD driver with an appropriate cassette. Going for the 10 speed Shimano-compatible cassette appeared to save weight over 11- or 12-speed.










32 Sapim Super CX Ray spokes:










Rear rim:










Final measured weight for the rear wheel is 608g. The combined weight of the wheels is 1093g, which is by far the lightest set of wheels I have ever built.

If I had to do this over, I might consider using Carbon-Ti SL disc hubs. They appear to be highly regarded by the Fairwheels blog. They are slightly lighter (about 35g for the pair) and have adjustable preload.

I'd stick with j-bend spokes though, as I know I can build reliably strong wheels with conventional spokes and am a bit hesitant to try straight pull. I've built a straight pull wheel once before (the original Mavic Crossmax), and it was a little tricky.

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## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

429SL, Medium, 21.68 lb.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

mlloyd007 said:


> View attachment 1198309
> 
> 
> 429SL, Medium, 21.68 lb.


Nice! Is that the stock XTR 1x build? Weight is impressive given the Fox 34 fork and that pedals are included.

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Brakes are XTR Race

Front brake with full housing:










The discarded portion of the brake hose. The weight of the lost oil will offset the weight of the brass olive?










Rear brakes



















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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

joeadnan said:


> Nice! Is that the stock XTR 1x build? Weight is impressive given the Fox 34 fork and that pedals are included.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks like a SRAM (I bet that it's a 1x11 XX1) drivetrain to me. On top of that, there's that gold chain, which should not be a stock part?

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Discs are tried and tested Ashima Ai2 rotors. 160mm front and rear.



















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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Just a few more scale shots for completeness

Raceface pedal washers and crank boots










AEST pedals










KMC 10sp titanium nitride coated chain, cut to length










Just waiting on the dropper post now...

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## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

Shadow4eva said:


> Looks like a SRAM (I bet that it's a 1x11 XX1) drivetrain to me. On top of that, there's that gold chain, which should not be a stock part?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's a full custom build with a 32SC, SRAM XX1, Formula brakes, NOX/Project 321 wheels. I've since put on a Fox 34 fork, ENVE cockpit and XTR brakes, current weight is 22.7 lb. but the ride is better because the fork is longer travel and way stiffer.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

mlloyd007 said:


> It's a full custom build with a 32SC, SRAM XX1, Formula brakes, NOX/Project 321 wheels. I've since put on a Fox 34 fork, ENVE cockpit and XTR brakes, current weight is 22.7 lb. but the ride is better because the fork is longer travel and way stiffer.


Sweet, glad you made the right upgrades!

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## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

FWIW, I had those rotors and fried them on a couple of long (20 min.) descents. Went with the Shimano ICE rotors in 180mm and they work well- no excessive heat buildup.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Enjoying this build! Thank you. 

My 429 is sitting just over 23lbs with 1600g wheels. Not much more I can change out except axels, seat collar. That front derailleur cover is 15g aswell


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mlloyd007 said:


> FWIW, I had those rotors and fried them on a couple of long (20 min.) descents. Went with the Shimano ICE rotors in 180mm and they work well- no excessive heat buildup.


I too have those rotors (180 Ai2) on xtr race brakes, on my fatbike. I fried them a few times on a long downhills (only winter snow riding). They don't work well for anywhere that's not flat IME. Ok for the winter riding for the most part, but there's no way they would have worked on the Whiskey Off Road last month. 6" icetech worked, adequate and most importantly did not overheat, but the Ai2s wouldn't have stood a chance, they overheat too easily. I'm on a work assignment in Texas right now and for here or especially Oklahoma, they'd be fine, but bigger climbs and descents in western states? No.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Re the Ashima rotors, I'll give it a try and see. My daughter is very small (picky eater despite my best efforts), so she may get away with it.

I screwed up the measurement of the chain and had to add two links. So it's 233g now










Saddle is Fizik Gobi M1










Progress so far... the vintage Ti seatpost is a placeholder for now. Still waiting for the dropper and rear axle.



















Any guesses on what the weight is at the moment?

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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

20.5 lbs.


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## mlloyd007 (Dec 7, 2009)

21.2


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## bridgestone14 (Mar 22, 2005)

Great looking bike man.


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## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

21.5


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

xc71 said:


> 20.5 lbs.


How did you figure that out? That is exactly right. 9.28kg or 20.5lbs, rounded to one decimal point.










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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

joeadnan said:


> How did you figure that out? That is exactly right. 9.28kg or 20.5lbs, rounded to one decimal point.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


He probably just zoomed in on the picture. Like I did.

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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

Le Duke said:


> He probably just zoomed in on the picture. Like I did.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, I could not see any numbers from the scale shot. Just took a guess from the parts you have lists so far.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

xc71 said:


> Just took a guess from the parts you have lists so far.


Weight weenie level: expert

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Rear axle arrived from Ukraine.










Sits very nearly flush on the drive side.










Thanks to LeDuke for the suggestion. Got this from eBay for a very reasonable price.

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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

joeadnan said:


> Rear axle arrived from Ukraine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm using HardLite too, it's nice!

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## CFH (Oct 27, 2015)

Shadow4eva said:


> I'm using HardLite too, it's nice!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Whats the axle length? Been looking for one for my 17' 429sl


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

CFH said:


> Whats the axle length? Been looking for one for my 17' 429sl


Mine's 142x12mm.

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Just built a new wheelset for my Pivot:


























Colormatch








Managed 4g rim-strips


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Jayem said:


> Just built a new wheelset for my Pivot:
> 
> View attachment 1200706
> View attachment 1200707
> ...


Beautiful! Too bad Light Bicycle couldn't make purple stickers for me

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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Purchased the Lev Integra from wiggle.com. No shipping charges, which is great. See how compact the 100mm post is.










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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Scale shots. 100x30.9 KS Lev Integra



















Excess cable










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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

joeadnan said:


> Beautiful! Too bad Light Bicycle couldn't make purple stickers for me
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's weird, when I ordered directly from their Chinese website, I was able to customise the decal on my rims with no additional charge.
Then again, this was back in 2015, so they might have change their policies.

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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

joeadnan said:


> Scale shots. 100x30.9 KS Lev Integra


That looks perfect!!


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Wolf Tooth Light Action ReMote. Decided to get the discrete clamp for full range of adjustability.










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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

All done. Anyone care to guess what the final weight is?










It was quite interesting to build a modern bike from scratch. I had to deal a number of new things I was unfamiliar with, like internal routing and dropper post.

I'll post a parts list with weights shortly. I would be interested to know what you would have done differently and why.

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## yycyclist (May 11, 2018)

22.5lbs?


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Parts list.










Measured weight is 20.94lbs or 9.50kg.










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## yycyclist (May 11, 2018)

Very cool. Congrats. My wife has a mach 4 C on order. Will be heavier than this but still very light relatively speaking. Changes? Might have gone with a the new Fox 34 SC 120mm fork and stuck with Shimano/Sram drivetrain (not sure about that Ukrainian stuff just yet). Impressive final weight though.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

Nice weight, especially starting from a relatively heavy frame (2461/5.42) and adding a drop post. My Norco Olve, starting with a 2148/4.8 frame and rigid post but some other un-weight-weenies concessions (Renthal bar and traction grips, porky 1780 grams FOX 34 fork, 300 grams XTR race pedals) comes in about one pound lighter at 20.8 http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/norco-rev-olve-r-build-weights-1033947.html

21-22 pounds seems to be the current limit for a trail worth cross country oriented bike.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

Some "boudoir" pics for your delectation.














































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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Wow, fantastic shots, and a fun build to "watch".

Still can't get over the orange fork though.


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

joeadnan said:


> All done. Anyone care to guess what the final weight is?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bike turned out fantastic Joe with the exception of that fugly fork, shame you could not get a black one. At least its not as ugly as those Yeti Turquoise frames with that fork.
I would have WW the dropper saddle clamping hardware. Run Liteskin tires with your daughter being a lightweight, but not sure how much thorns/cactus you ride in. Tune SKyline Princess front hub.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

xc71 said:


> I would have WW the dropper saddle clamping hardware.


Are the clamps universal? I made a feeble attempt to look for them on eBay but couldn't find anything that were compatible with KS posts.



xc71 said:


> Run Liteskin tires with your daughter being a lightweight, but not sure how much thorns/cactus you ride in.


Trails are often wet and rooty here, so I wanted to go for a reasonable width tyre with the softer Speepgrip compound. The Liteskin model doesn't come with Speedgrip, unfortunately.

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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

joeadnan said:


> Are the clamps universal? I made a feeble attempt to look for them on eBay but couldn't find anything that were compatible with KS posts.
> 
> Trails are often wet and rooty here, so I wanted to go for a reasonable width tyre with the softer Speepgrip compound. The Liteskin model doesn't come with Speedgrip, unfortunately.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't think they are Universal but most of the 30.9 & 31.6 posts seem to use a common lower cradle shape. I purchased the J&L carbon cradle and it fits the YEP and Fox Transfer posts. 
One thing I did years ago in building a light weight Scott Spark RC 24" for my son was to take an off cut from a 31.6 seatpost or carbon steer tube and cut it in half. Then make 4 grooves where the saddle rails would fit. This does not give the full saddle rail support like the J&L cradle but for kids its fine.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Finally got these wheels out on dirt. Still waiting on the rear tire, but what the heck. They rode great. Maybe just a tad bit softer than my 32 hole setup on my other wheels, but I was playing with suspension settings. Lots of fast high-g banks and flow stuff on these trails. First race is next week, looking forward to it!


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## gks333 (Mar 5, 2013)

Very nice. Less than 21lbs. My 2015 Mach 4 is currently at 24.63lbs ready to ride with:
*Pivot Mach 4 Carbon Frameset (medium) 2015 (Fox CTD Kashima)
Fork : Fox Float F120 34 Factory 2016 FIT4
Headset: Chris king inSet
Crank: RaceFace Next SL DM32 Carbon (RWC bottom bracket, double wide flanged bearings) 28t
Wheels: NOX skyline, C-xray spokes, DT Swiss 240 hubs w/36pt engagement (1400g)
Thru axles: Fox front (35.13g), Pivot rear (44.8g).
Tires Front/rear: Schwalbe Hans Damph now year round 2.35/2.25
Crank Arm Length: 175mm Tire Setup: Tubeless
Shifters: Sram XX1 Trigger
Rear Derailleur: Sram XX1
Cassette: Sram XX1 10-42t
Chain: Sram XX1 (XX1 and X01 Build)
Brakes: SRAM Guide Ultimate
Front/rear Rotor Size: 160mm
Front/rear Rotor Type: SRAM Centerline X
Handlebar: Raceface Next 725mm
Stem: wren 70mm
Seatpost: KS LEV dropper 30.9mm/125mm with wolf tooth trigger shift lever.
Seat: Tiaoga undercover (150g) 
Grips: Diety grips (122g) 
Pedals: Expedo M-force (215g)
Bolts: Replaced what I can with aluminum or Ti

*Up here in the PNW (just outside seattle) I needed more grip. Tried the roro's and they do not even come close to cutting it for traction. Rode nobby nicks for years and they worked great till I tried hans damph...doubt i'll go back. They are phenominal.


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## gks333 (Mar 5, 2013)

BTW, my bike weigh just under 1lb more than my daughters bike in the picture. Of course it costs 120X more ;?)


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

gks333 said:


> BTW, my bike weigh just under 1lb more than my daughters bike in the picture. Of course it costs 120X more ;?)


Don't get me started on the weight of some kids' bikes. My son had one that was 30 lbs, which seems tough for a kid who weighed maybe 50lbs at the time.


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## yycyclist (May 11, 2018)

Yup. My daughter's 12" bike weighs 10lbs more than my road bike. I think she's only about 10lbs more than her bike. Poor kid.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

What can I say? A tragic victim of style.

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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Ha - but I think it will look great.


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