# DIY workstand with Park prs-4w



## colds14 (Apr 27, 2009)

Don't post here much if at all, but was stoked to finally get this one done. Having been a mechanic for many years, I got spoiled using the pro dual arm stands and find that home/portable race stands are like noodles.Not having a ton of extra funds I decided to build one. My goal was to build one that is as sturdy as a pro stand, be slightly more movable, and cost no more then $150.00.

Here is the list of what I used and how I did it. I used the Park prs-4w wall mount arm as it is the strongest and I found it on ebay for less then 100 shipped. The list of the materials is two 8' 4x4(non pressure treated) timbers' 8-3/8"x6" carriage bolts, two 3/8"x6 bolts, 4 washers, and 2 nuts. All the materials cost a little more then 20 bucks.

The first thing is to cut the 4x4 down to size and at the right angles. Pretty simple cuts to do especially if you have access to a chop saw. I cut the center post to 64" as I prefer my stand height higher. Next was to cut the legs. All legs were cut to 25" and then the ends were cut to 45 degree angles so that they can sit flat on the ground and on the center post.

Now to put it all together. I would recommend doing it on a bench/table(I used the bed of my truck). First thing I did was took a long 2x4 and screwed it flat to the bottom of the center post. I did this so that I had a flat surface to make sure that the legs were even with the center post when bolted. Once you have the first leg lined up just drill a hole into the leg and passing into the center post. Make sure that you drill the hole at 90 degrees to the leg, and not 90 to the center post. This will allow for the bolt head to rest on a flat surface. Screw the bolt in and repeat with another bolt to add some extra security. Repeat on the other side. Now turn the 2x4 on the screw to line up the other two legs, it will be tight at first if the legs are set correct(and this is where working on a table works better so that the legs have something to hang off of). Repeat for the last two legs.

To mount the head, stand it up and find the height you like. I prefer it to be about at my shoulder. Take the base and mark the holes, drill it out(I used a 3/4" paddle bit as there longer), and mount using the 6" bolts, washers, and nuts. And your done

All said and done it came in under budget, its light enough to throw over my shoulder to move, and as stable if not more then the pro stands I have used. I realized I should have done build pics but here is the finished stand.


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## MaddSquirrel (Aug 5, 2005)

Nicely done.


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## jays0n (Sep 14, 2007)

Great job, having a stand sure does make wrenching easier, I wouldn't go without now. I did basically the same thing a few years ago but used steel instead of wood, well accept for the tool shelf. It was a bit more expensive but I was able to get the base for free, it was from a display a buddy grabbed from the Blockbuster video he worked at, it was even painted Park Tool blue! I've used it for 6 years and it just survived a house fire, Park sure makes great stuff.

Do you have any issue with it being unstable? I offset the vertical mount to the back corner fo the base so the bike ends up hanging about in the center of the plate, it seemed to help.


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## 4slomo (Jul 4, 2006)

Think about adding some steel strap from the bottom of the four legs to the center post, parallel to the ground. This will form triangles and give the legs more strength.


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## colds14 (Apr 27, 2009)

Jay0n- Your stand looks great. With the four post design, its more then stable. How heavy is that steal plate on yours? 

4slomo- I had actually thought about using threaded rod in a similar style, but I need a tilting drill press to do it.


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## jays0n (Sep 14, 2007)

The plate is about 60 pounds, it was a real score. I was worried that putting the bike "off center" to the posts might make it unstable, sounds like it didn't though.


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

Cut some weight and use PVC pipe. I can fully dissemble it and throw it in my car or store it somewhere. Cranks and cable are completely free to move. The support bar that connects to the seat post can be removed completely (the bike balances fine without it I just added for the extra security) and/or you can switch it to the other side of the bike. Only cost about $35 and haven't found any problems with it yet.


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

Really nice, congrats! What/how does the seatpost clamp work, what's it made of?


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

IRONMAN1518 said:


> Really nice, congrats! What/how does the seatpost clamp work, what's it made of?


I just cut a piece of PVC in half, bolted the clamps and hinges on. Now I say I bolted them on because I didn't use the standard screws that they come with, I was worried that there wouldn't be enough material for the screws to grab and hold (its pretty tight fit on the seat post) so I bought a few small bolts and nuts that I could tighten up and not have to worry about. Then I lined it with some soft foamy stuff I had laying around the house...to protect the seat post and make it a tight fit.

(I have also attached the photos of where the bike rest) 
---These were the most time consuming parts. I used a file, to get just the right shape to hold together and to hold my bike (It's not bike specific. I have used 2 other bikes on it and they all work great)


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## colds14 (Apr 27, 2009)

Now that would be a true DIY stand, nice job!


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## mtnbikecrazy55 (Jul 26, 2007)

man, these are sweet. 

I'm assuming thats just ome black/gunmetal texture paint on the pvc?

also, how much does the pvc flex?


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

mtnbikecrazy55 said:


> man, these are sweet.
> 
> I'm assuming thats just ome black/gunmetal texture paint on the pvc?
> 
> also, how much does the pvc flex?


Thanks! Your correct on the paint and the PVC has very little flex, a little when the bike's weight is first applied. If your not paying attention you wont even realize that it flexed. I personally thought it was going to have more when I started working on it, but I was wrong. (actually when I started I really wasn't sure how well any of it was going to work...but it turned out great!!!)


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

moutainkiller said:


> Cut some weight and use PVC pipe. I can fully dissemble it and throw it in my car or store it somewhere. Cranks and cable are completely free to move. The support bar that connects to the seat post can be removed completely (the bike balances fine without it I just added for the extra security) and/or you can switch it to the other side of the bike. Only cost about $35 and haven't found any problems with it yet.


Great!

:thumbsup:


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## JeffcoHo (Sep 2, 2010)

mtnbikecrazy55 said:


> man, these are sweet.
> 
> I'm assuming thats just ome black/gunmetal texture paint on the pvc?
> 
> also, how much does the pvc flex?


If you have a heavy rig or the tendency to really torque on your rig you could frame out the bottom and seat post support in black iron pipe. They make PVC to NPT (National pipe thread) adapters so you could use both.


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## RSW42 (Aug 22, 2006)

My Baby...built by a team-mate at work who dabbles in metal fab...you can hang a Harely Davidson from this thing.

I am totally happy with this as my shop stand. I have a park Folding stand for taking places, etc.



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