# GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking



## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I have added a new version to my lineup of GoPro light adapters. Some of the small dual emitter lights could use some additional heat dissipation. This has been discussed some in the Yinding thread. 

This version adds ~3 square inches of fin surface area to help shed some of the heat. They will come standard with a hole drilled to suit the M4 screw that is typically used on most Chinese lights. They will also be available undrilled if desired. I can also do other mods if desired.

The picture showing the adapter mounted to a Yinding is of the prototype and courtesy of Ofroad'bent who has been kind enough to be my tester (guinea pig) with early versions of the adapters. The fins on the production version are deeper and slightly wider to add a bit more area and airflow.

PM or email for additional info.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Dang that thing gets hot!*

Guess that means it's working. Yinding didn't step down to Low like it usually does when I run it on High for over a minute.









Thanks, Kevin!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

That looks sweet!

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Did you get the complete mount from Kevin? Looks like a nice setup


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

@andychrist.. Nice looking setup! Glad to hear it improved the heat management for you. Did you use any thermal paste between the adapter and light?

@GJHS.. I can't take any credit for the bar clamp portion. It is a nice looking piece. Hopefully andy will chime in with info on that.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Bar mount just looks like gopro aluminum mount, all over amazon last I looked. Definately cheating for putting this adapter mount to the test  

Cant WAIT to get mine  And seeing as gopro adaption is almost the best way to go for having mounting options (I have an ION camera too) Ill probably end up with one or 2 more later on. For the record, this one was ordered for KD 2, yinding clone looking version (for anyone trying to figure out what this will and wont fit)

THnx Vanc for taking the time to do this for all of us.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I found this cool one

Amazon.com : Fotasy HEROBMK 31.8mm Aluminum Handlebar Bike Mount for GoPro HERO HERO2 HERO3 Cameras with Premier Cleaning Cloth : Camera & Photo


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ya found a few now lol. DEcisions Decisions. ANd trying to decide how important bar light being centered (thus extended in front of bars) is to me, is it $18 plus shipping worth it (Action LED mounts)lol.

Actually: Better Yet

Amazon.com : KongYiJi Brand New Aluminum alloy Sport Bike Bicycle Expand Handle Bar Extension Mount T Type Light Speedometer (Black) : Sports & Outdoors

If that tube is aluminum (which its supposed to be) add the aluminum gopro mount, Vanc's adapter, one hellva heat sink,lol.

Ordering one of these T extensions now, Ill report when it gets here.

Kevin (plus archie sharing bar mount), you have the perfect way to get heat from head to mounts, aluminum adapter, aluminum mount. And for many, aluminum bars, or in my case I have carbon bars, so T extension.

guess ill have to plan to order another one, Kevin, get to making one thats a bit bigger for the 3 emitter lights


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah the GoPro style bar clamps are available both on Amazon and at all the usual suspects on Alibaba. Much cheaper there too of course but again shipping from China so a long wait. Thumb knobs had to be purchased separately, come in packages of three with two long and one short. As you've all noticed by now, clamps and knobs available in same colors as Yinding, as well as the Siver here which also goes so nicely with the KD MJ 880 clone. Posted that one before,
View attachment 964259


Just be advised, links to this item as well as descriptive head lines on the Chinese sites still list it as 21mm to 31.8mm but it is NOT adjustable that way and will ONLY fit the wider bars. Think that has since been corrected on Amazon's actual listings (because Guess Who made a little stink about it.) Oh well, along with the other parts I bought a roll of 1" aluminum tape to wrap around my bars. Heat travels all the way down through the adapter and into the clamp, will be interesting to see whether it transfers any farther. Haven't applied thermal paste, adapter sits pretty flush. Screw holes have to be countersunk into the aluminum plate so the 7.5mm diameter M4 screw heads sit below the surface, that's about it.









Meantime I also have to replace all the cables and housings on both my bikes down here in the city so gonna be a little while before the whole setup is complete, but will post back with more pics then.

Thanks again to Kevin, and also Ofroad'bent and GJHS and everybody else here for the info needed to get this together.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Andychrist, the way I dealt with the bar issue was to buy some handlebar shims (like this) in the correct size & cut them to width


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks for the link f_b. Yes I saw those but my bars are only 22mm, they just have a short bulge to 25.4mm right in the center, hardly any wider than the stem. So those shims would not work for my set up. Fortunately though the aluminum tape will; haven't applied it yet to either of my city bikes but have used it before on some chopper bars upstate and it held clamps fine. Only question is whether the tape will continue the thermal path to the bars despite the [microscopically thin] adhesive layer under the aluminum. Place your bets now everybody!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

im hoping and thinking the adapter will be plenty in itself (for headlamp use) in most cases. Thats my plan for it, my bar light is getting a custom mount made for it and since my bars are carbon, going to use an extender to put light in front of them, so extender will create more area. Vancs little thing is perfect for what we needed, helmet (now just if mine would GET HERE,lol, stupid mail is slow)


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.


Rained here today so I did some still air indoor thermal testing of my Yinding vs 3 of my Gemini lights (1 Duo and 2 Olympias). I don't know if you actually timed when your light stepped down point but I was getting almost 5 min. before my Yinding stepped down with a light-head body temp of 150F. The times and light-head temp of the Duo and one Olympia were almost identical to the Yinding. My original Olympia I shut down @ 8 min.when the light-head body temp reached 170F. I think I need to try one of these finned adapters!
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

andychrist said:


> Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.


I would love an aluminum gopro clip, and I think its doable. Plastic clip itself but aluminum where the thumb screw goes. Doable being gopro clips are 2 piece on the taller ones. Thnx more ideas lol.

Here's pic used on my kd2


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Here's pic used on my kd2


The power cable exits the bottom of that light? Tell us what you did to the adapter to make it work. Maybe a picture of the bottom would be good.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Kd2 mount hole is further forward so new hole had to be drilled. As well as wire exits center bottom of case so stock hole (desoldered and resoldered cable) of adapter was perfect place.










If my arm is up to it later im gonna run temp tests and compare against being on on plastic mount.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

TO EVERYONE READING THIS THREAD:

I see a need for this mount with the surface that meets the light head/fins being wider. Would anyone else be interested in Vanc making a larger version for the bigger lights (or even for these small ones that aren't as good with heat that can use all the help they cam get)

Post up interested if wanting a version about twice the size as current one.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Kd2 mount hole is further forward so new hole had to be drilled. As well as wire exits center bottom of case so stock hole (desoldered and resoldered cable) of adapter was perfect place.


Thanks for that pic!

I thought all the Duo/Yinding clones had the cable out the back.

The number of variations in the Chinese lights is astounding. When I first started building adapters, I tried to put together a table of brands and models and all the pertinent dimensions. I quickly realized it was futile as within any particular brand and model, the measurements varied.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya its nuts. Ud have to mill a groove for the wire in several case types. I think its dumb, all should be out the back


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I like the how the cable exits the Yinding, near the rear at about 4:30 — so it's not in shear, as would be were it run out the back. Doesn't interfere with the mount or get in the way when reaching for control button with left hand.

Yeah tigris, was thinking perhaps the finned adapters could benefit from a wider contact area. But imagine Kevin must be getting tired of exchanging all the ones he's already made for me.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> ....Yeah tigris, was thinking perhaps the finned adapters could benefit from a wider contact area.


I think tigris is looking for an adapter with overall larger dimensions for the fin surfaces to use with larger lights.

It's a bit of a balancing act on the current design. If the contact surface is larger, then you lose some fin surface area.

I did not do any scientific testing on this adapter, as I no longer have access to a thermal imaging camera. I did apply a bit of what I learned from building several different designs of DIY lights when I had access to a camera. Aluminum is a really good conductor of heat. I would predict that with a heat source applied to the contact area, the distribution would be very close to equal between the upper and lower fins. Making a larger contact area would skew that to the upper fin being hotter with less area to radiate.

I've heard of some software programs that simulate thermal distribution, but have never played with any. Might be a fun exercise for someone with some time on their hands.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I think tigris is looking for an adapter with overall larger dimensions for the fin surfaces to use with larger lights.
> 
> It's a bit of a balancing act on the current design. If the contact surface is larger, then you lose some fin surface area.


Yes, and I was thinking along the same lines as tigris, Kevin. But the GearBest Yinding has no fins where it interfaces the original plastic mount, about 20mm across. Your finned adapter makes contact for slightly less than half that width. :nono:   Same deal with SolarStorm X3. Oddly, KD MJ-880 clone has fins all over the bottom, and that is one heavy lamp which could benefit from a wider base contact for stability alone. Also notice there is a pretty big indent to mate with matching plug on that clone's plastic mount. To compensate on your adapter, will drill small hole there, tap to accept a wide head hex screw. Just gotta go "borrow" my brother's drill press when he isn't looking. 









Thanks again Kevin for your diligence and patience!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

For me can expand fins to compensate. My kd2 is 40mm wide with 20mm flat base. One that is the same size (20 base 40fins)would be awesome imo. For those of us wanting to push more outta our light heads anyway.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

A larger unit is certainly doable as a custom if someone wants one. I very much doubt that it would sell well enough to justify me running a batch. 

The current finned version could easily be changed to have a 12-14mm wide mounting surface on a second batch if that is the popular choice. Response to the finned version has been pretty blah.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well most dont probably realize the benefit yet and season hasn't really starts yet.

If ur making a 14mm base version put me down for one.










This might help ur sales when I run the tests lol.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

*Test results: PLastic mount vs The Gopro Aluminum Adapter*

Heres test results. Remember, this test is done on my modded light with copper plate and thermal paste not pure stock. Stock would be a waste cause high triggers thermal step down quickly without serious air flow:

Summary, 14% increase in heat dissipation at internal copper heat transfer plate. Or 14% lower internal temp.

Note: Noticed Vanc's gopro adapter allowed something that didnt happen with plastic mount. See below with 30 sec fans off cycle mid test.

Test duration: Approx 15 mins (vanc's mount got tested longer by a couple mins, had to use boys room).

Air flow of about 7-9 mph, mild cruising speed

Both Tests lights were left on high from start to finish.

Ambient Temp: 77 deg F (25 C)

at approx 10 min mark fans were turned off for 30 secs to simulate stopping for a brief drink or catch breath.








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Test one: Plastic mount








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During this test case temp held approx 140 F till fan cycle off, moved up to 152 F then once fans kicked on eventually moved down to and held 150 F ( 65.5 Celsius) Only dropped 2 deg....

Test 2: Vancbikers Yinding Gopro Mount Adapter (Aluminum)








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Temps hit over 100 F quickly but after 115 F began to slow increase greatly. held steady at 129 F from there. During cycle fans off test, temps peaked at 142 F, then once fans were back on in less than 1 min temps were back at 129-130 F (53.8 Celsius).

There you go, that gopro finned adapter ROCKS!!! As a note case was still hot to the touch but not unbearable. Didnt feel much different to the touch, but internal temps where reduced by 14%. And internal temps is where it counts the most. Inside heat build up is what cooks things, a 20 deg F cooler driver/emitter board, thats a good day.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I'm getting the same light tigris has so if you are making the 14mm base version of the finned mount put me down for one(or 2).


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

@pwu_1; I won't be making a wider base version until the initial batch has all sold.

@tigris; Nice testing! Did you apply any thermal paste between the light and adapter? If not, I wonder if that would improve the performance. Theoretically, it should.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya I put thermal paste, probably could use a tad more though for better coverage.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*DIY Upper Cooling Fins for Yinding*

Put together this krewd mockup of a cooling matrix that will fit right into the CNC'd grooves atop the Yinding, balance out Vancbiker's finned aluminum GoPro adapter below. Whole thing will cost exactly six bits ($.75) in materials, because it's to be made from three USA Quarters sawn in halves, drilled or punched for ventilation/dissipation, and scored to all fit together. Haven't figured out yet just how to secure assembled matrix to YD, maybe with a wire or some kind of band, thermal glue if not too messy. Mates so well with the lamp shell, shouldn't be much of an issue. Probably could use either more or larger holes in the laterals than demonstrated here - could only find that one size punch in my tool mess.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Looks about like what I plan to do with my ss x3. Nice but a bit overkill dont u think lol. But u can push the driver harder now if u want.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

You do know that you can buy these for $1, right?
Heat Sink Heasink 39x39x7 5mm 1 5x1 3x0 3in Adhesive | eBay

Or 20 of these with free shipping for $4
20pcs Black Heat Sink FOR Stepstick A4988 Chip IC Thermal Adhesive 8 8 8 8 5mm | eBay


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ofroad'bent said:


> You do know that you can buy these for $1, right?
> 
> Heat Sink Heasink 39x39x7 5mm 1 5x1 3x0 3in Adhesive | eBay
> 
> ...


Ya but where is the fun in that, we are customizing while being functional, and the big on won't fit these lights anyway.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Aight andychrist, starting on designing the gopro base. Since the tall hooked looking base mount is 2 pieces makes it easier. Using the bottom plastic clip and making a new aluminum finned piece that will mount to it then mount light with kevins adapter.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Ofroad'bent said:


> You do know that you can buy these for $1, right?


What tigris says.

And at 8.8 mm sq, even the smallest of those heat sinks are too large to fit flush on the Yinding - cross grooves limit its flat surface to a band of like 6mm*24mm. OTOH could be applied all over top of SS X3 no problem. Been tempted to order a bunch for that lamp, only not clear it really needs any more thermal relief. Has never stepped down on me but then maybe it just lacks that function?

Bet Vancbiker could churn out my recently revised Crewd Cooling Matrix™ in a jiff. Go nice with his new wider based finned aluminum GoPro adapter, _wouldn't it_, Kevin?  Hint-hint nudge-nudge.



tigris99 said:


> Aight andychrist, starting on designing the gopro base. Since the tall hooked looking base mount is 2 pieces makes it easier. Using the bottom plastic clip and making a new aluminum finned piece that will mount to it then mount light with kevins adapter.


Yeah I was kinda freaked after purchasing Vanc's aluminum adapters to find that the only GoPro mounts were plastic. Can't wait to see your new design tigris, sounds brilliant. Hope it can be reproduced without too much hassle.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If u don't have a properly set up dremel and patience (or a cnc) you aren't going to reproduce it lol. My dremel is set up (router adapter modified) so I can do "cnc" type work by hand. Takes forever and makes a mess, but it works.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> Bet Vancbiker could churn out my recently revised Crewd Cooling Matrix™ in a jiff. Go nice with his new wider based finned aluminum GoPro adapter, _wouldn't it_, Kevin?  Hint-hint nudge-nudge.


How many would you like?:eekster:

I wonder how consistent the groove dimensions are being held by Yinding. That would be key to making a heatsink.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Something like this? Cutting the slots is a bit slow due to the small cutter and pretty deep feature. I don't have a saw type cutter that will go that deep and leave a quality surface.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

oh jesus kevin, your killing me, lol. Ill hit my kd2 with the caliper.... but I want more class/style than that  maybe angled short front taller to back or something.

BTW andy, gopro base mount adapter started. OMG this is going to SUCK cause adapter peice to fit in plastic gopro QR clip is FREAKING TINY. Gonna be a 2 piece part, plate that sits in qr clip base then finned sink/tabbed section will be mounted to it. way easier to do. thought about cutting arch/tabs off and mounting just sink/tab aluminum piece to it, lol.


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## juhake (Oct 26, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Something like this? Cutting the slots is a bit slow due to the small cutter and pretty deep feature. I don't have a saw type cutter that will go that deep and leave a quality surface.


Wouldn't it be better if the cooling fins are into other direction, in the direction of air flow when driving bike?

Somebody should test if the direction of fins and air flow have any effect or is it all about body mass.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I have cut those heat sinks to size, between the fins for other lights. File the edges and touch up with Tremclad black paint.



andychrist said:


> What tigris says.
> 
> And at 8.8 mm sq, even the smallest of those heat sinks are too large to fit flush on the Yinding - cross grooves limit its flat surface to a band of like 6mm*24mm. OTOH could be applied all over top of SS X3 no problem. Been tempted to order a bunch for that lamp, only not clear it really needs any more thermal relief. Has never stepped down on me but then maybe it just lacks that function?
> 
> ...


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Something like this? Cutting the slots is a bit slow due to the small cutter and pretty deep feature. I don't have a saw type cutter that will go that deep and leave a quality surface.


Ooh that is clever, Kevin!

Yeah, figured it would be a PITA cutting out material to such a depth, that's why I designed my (even more newly revised!) cooling matrix with six separate cross splined plates. Worst cutting involved is only about a couples mm or so long, 1.5mm to 3mm deep. As you can see, I've increased size (and sloppiness!!!) of holes in flying buttresses to accomodate air flow, in light of their being oriented counter to draft.









Tall center plate obviously needs to be widened (to 3mm) and will be rounded and notched on the bottom to mate with indents on top Yinding; reckon butresses should be 1.5mm thick, or about the same as the fins on your adapter - what ever fills the cross grooves up there. With luck, whole assembly will fit snugly enough to adhere to YD with minimal amount of thermal glue.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hopefully he doesn't make them as tall as yours, too much weight/size increase for my tastes.

I'm with juhake, fins going front to back.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

juhake said:


> Wouldn't it be better if the cooling fins are into other direction, in the direction of air flow when driving bike?


They are. The shallow fins on the Yinding body are perpendicular to the airflow. The shallow fins on the heatsink would match and fit into the Yinding fins for maximum contact. The larger fins are then parallel to airflow while riding.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well tigris the matrix could scale down easily, and the butresses are just two thirds the height of the center plate, and only half as thick. Plus it's all gonna get rounded a bit. Pretty sure though most of that mass would still be needed for any kind of rapid thermal absorption, but even without any reduction the whole thing will still weigh in under Vanc's solitary finned adapter. *Important to note, structure wiill have proportions of an equilateral triangle, both for greatest stability and aesthetics.* Agree a unit with longitudinal fins _might_ work better but the inherent design of the Yinding is at cross purposes with my solution of splined, interlocking plates; anyway am confident the ginormous holes punched through the cross pieces will increase both airflow and surface area enough to make up for the shortcoming in alignment. Again, while possibly preferable, Kevin's monolithic design with directional fins is not so easily doable because of the deep cuts it demands. Slots on my matrix are actually shallower than those he did for his first finned adapter, am hoping to cut 'em with just a band saw or something.

Now get cracking on your finned aluminum mount, tigris!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Hopefully he doesn't make them as tall as yours, too much weight/size increase for my tastes.
> 
> I'm with juhake, fins going front to back.


This model was just a 5 minute draw of what could be done.

I'm doubtful that it could actually be built as anything but a custom. I'm doubtful that Yinding held any kind of close tolerance on the fin details (depth, width, spacing). Because of that, I'd have to provide lots of clearance in the mating fins to fit the Yinding slots for a "one size fits all" solution. Too much clearance will result in poor heat transfer.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vanc, actually manufacturing tolerances would be close enough with thermal paste should still help ALOT. Wouldn't be the "perfect" set up but would be worth it.

Andy do u have a way to measure ur yinding for groove width and depth (small metric ruler would work). We need to ask the other yinding ppl to measure too.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok kd 2 measurements. I took min/max as what would fit, not avg. Max fin thickness, min groove width, min groove depth (shallowest groove). Basically so would sit flush, as snug as possible with case from stand point of what values ud have to use for cnc.





Ok sink dimensions for effectiveness while keeping weight and profile low (giving some style). Attachment jb weld or thermal adhesive. Both have very solid thermal transfer and case drilling/tapping is limited to between optics up front only.





Max length: 25mm (prefered for me since I have threaded hole above optics now anyway)


Preferred width: 15mm


Total sink height (from case to top of fins) 1mm angled to ~5mm in rear.





Groove dimensions to fit case:





Case fin width: 2.05mm


Groove width: 1.65mm


Groove depth: 1.25mm





Hopefully this makes sense to you vanc. And there's alot of ppl with kd2s cause of amazon having them under prime shipping (and cheap as hell matching china prices)

Oh and Vanc, if I get u where second mounting hole needs to be, next batch of gopro adapters can u drill a second mounting hole (leave yinding hole too) for kd2s. Duplicate what ive done cause im finding these exist in blf too. Figure if for both u could sell more (since most guys dont have desire to drill)


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Vanc, actually manufacturing tolerances would be close enough with thermal paste should still help ALOT. Wouldn't be the "perfect" set up but would be worth it.
> 
> Andy do u have a way to measure ur yinding for groove width and depth (small metric ruler would work). We need to ask the other yinding ppl to measure too.


No tigris some how all my equipment down here in the city is Imperial. But will pick up some kind of metric device from HD this coming Tuesday.

Yeah figured I'd have to leave some leeway between the grooves, 'nuff for some thermal adhesive. One good thing is that the three, wider longitudinals on top the Yinding are scooped out in arcs, so any width of plate running front to back could rest inside and still make good contact. Just need to curve the bottom the same or a little more sharply.

Fins on Vanc's adapter are pretty much the right thickness and same spacing as YD rectangular cross grooves with a little play. So roughly 3.5mm per trough+peak, about 1.75mm each if they're same width. (Converting sixteenths of an inch to mms, best I can do right now. Can't measure how deep they're cut without calipers.) Wonder if your KD2 is CNC'd same as Yinding. Wouldn't surprise me if manufacturer just copied original program sans alteration.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

*Cooling Matrix Sectional*









Um, probably should have shown this before, in case it wasn't clear from the earlier pics what kind of a stupid kindergarden method I'd used to cross-spline the pieces of the matrix together. Sorry.

But with access to soft aluminum slugs, bet anybody could knock out their own cooling matrices using common tools, no CNC required.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'm guessing so. Specs are really close but my.measurements r with an expensive digital caliper. So just more precise than urs but still looks the same. And I measured each fin/groove individually and posted extremes for what vanc would need for machining all as one size.

Btw heres set up ready to cut first piece, water cooling and all. Takes extreme caution mixing water and using a dremel lol.










Btw ur fins look like that are made from a beer can lol. Not sure how u got the texture.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

_Beer_ can? You kiddin, I ain't got that kinda pocket! No, polystyrene egg carton topped with aluminum tape. (Remember, this just for mockup, until I can score right gauge aluminum.) Texture was actually pretty smooth originally, until I stabbed those holes in the cross members with a phillips head. Then had to flatten 'em back out with some severe stompin'. Thick aluminum plate did start off with tinned bottom of cocoa container, then similarly wrapped with the aluminum tape. Still need to cut it to accept new cross members.

Can't wait to see how yours turns out, tigris!!!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well that's gopro mount adapter thing im making. Waiting to see if vanc is going to make heat sinks cause I can't mill near as clean and smooth as his cnc, ^^^dremel, drill, hacksaw, file lol.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

andychrist said:


> _. (Remember, this just for mockup, until I can score right gauge aluminum.)
> !_


_

Why not use copper? I was looking at some of the pre-made heat-sinks on-line and I thought the copper ones would look good with the black light body. Just a suggestion.
Mole_


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Trouble with copper is it oxidizes kinda wierd when exposed to the elements. Guess area bonded with thermal paste would remain free of corrosion. But it's also tougher to cut than alloy, makes a big difference when some members could be 2mm-3mm thick. Aluminum relatively soft, can whittle with pen knife. Besides, will match Vanc's finned adapter which I'd be using in conjunction all the time.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

This is for vanc to possibly cnc for anyone who wants one to help keep these little lights cool. Copper corrodes and doubt vanc wants to mess with trying to run copper (not to mention price) through his cnc. Though copper would be pretty nice for pulling heat away from head.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

I don't want to poop the party, but with all the expertise and time you guys are putting into this, wouldn't it be easier to start with a SS X2 body and modify the internals to make a really reliable light that probably wouldn't require any exterior modifications?? 

Vanc's aluminum mount would fit that light head nicely, and as I've said before...if someone could identify a reliable one online, I think that light is every bit as good as the Yinding. What's funny is I jumped on the GearBest Yinding with the idea that it was an "original" with improved thermal properties, and now we have multiple threads that are centered around cooling them. LOL 

What stinks even more is I still haven't taken a good ride with the Yinding to see how it's going to do on high in actual practice. That's going to get tested Tuesday night, finally. 

For a cheapo Chinese combo, I think a Yinding on the bars and an SS X2 on the helmet would be pretty tough to beat on all facets.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya would make sense, i fully agree BUT:

Im off work for a month and enjoying myself. Learn, modify, fabricate, test, rinse repeat.

Really yinding doesnt need all that heat sink, my KD2 is gtg now (all the work making internal heat dissipation equal that of a yinding with a couple copper caps and thermal paste). Its something personally I enjoy doing alot and keeping me busy. PLus the "more power" thing, I have my KD pushing 3.29A to the emitters and holds up with air flow, had to set program at 90% (around 3A) and been peachy. Look at candlelight and BLF, thats all those guys do, buy, mod, test, and repeat for LED lights. Doesnt make sense but really does fancy carbon bike parts make any real sense either?  This is at least WAY cheaper as its 90% DIY 10% cash flow.

I have an SX X3 from GB in NY atm wondering when USPS will get off their butts and get it here. Its been outta customs for like 4 days and hasnt moved from USPS hub near by.

Speaking of modding, here you go andy:


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris, now you just need an aluminum helmet. ;-)

Oh and GB sends their stuff Registered Mail which makes it take an exceptionally long time traveling around between sorting centers. You'll have to be in to sign for your SS X3 when it arrives or go pick it up later at the PO, but tracking stinks so you probably won't even be able to see when it's Out for Delivery.

@ NWAtrailyguy: For starters, finding a "good" SS X2 is easier said than done. Dunno where GB dug up their SS X3, not clear that manufacturer has any involvement with the dual version. Then, most of us prefer the Yinding's [easily modded] optics over the SS SMO reflectors.

You're right, traily guy, all this heat sinking might be unnecessary if the Yinding can run on High without stepping down under real world conditions. But we do know that without adequate air flow it is bound to do so, which means it most likely could not maintain full power on long slow climbs. Not a terribly big deal because High is generally uncalled for in that situation. OTOH, YD serves as the best helmet lamp around in terms of weight and size alone, but the current model's recalcitrant control button makes it a real pain to operate in that position. So hope is all our investment in experimentation will pay off in allowing the Yinding to run continously without intervention. And yeah, we also enjoy tinkering.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ss x3 is there but hell if I can get case screws out...some unknown size or heads are jacked up. Nothing dremel can fix then ill use my own screws.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Same problem here tigris, mine came with a cracked lens but even with a wee driver that seemed to fit the screws on the face plate was unable to budge 'em. Glad I paid for insurance on that delivery!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Aight andy, said Id do it and I did, not sure if I like it, adds weight. I gotta finish cleaning it up but machining its DONE. Onto my SS X3 next, its getting converted to optics the dang thing has a major spot and throw, not what I want on bars,lol.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well that came out nice, tigris 

Yeah the SS X3 is known for being pretty hot spotty, that's generally what you get with reflectors.

Gotta go pick up some aluminum sheet to continue on with my own madcap design, muwahaha.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here u go, done! Edged the front of the fins and hit with polishing wheel.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Cool stuff guys! 

I was hoping you guys would succumb to my veiled attempt to get one of you to go on a quest to find a good SS X2 out there. From there, you could put your tinkering skills to work to modify it to have the fancy 10 step driver, step up the intensity with more amperage to the driver, and find the perfect lens combination that would provide both a good spot, and a nice spread so it would be the perfect helmet light. While I like the nice bright spot of my S12 Two, I'd love to have just a little more dispersion paired with a good spot. Then I wouldn't even need a bar light for many of my rides on our local trails that are tight and low speed endeavors. 

Then when you're done tinkering with it, and bored again, I'd buy it off ya, or trade you for 8 old pulled-off bike reflectors and a Hershey bar with only one bite out of it. 

Foiled. :thumbsup:


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

andychrist said:


> tigris, now you just need an aluminum helmet. ;-)
> 
> Oh and GB sends their stuff Registered Mail which makes it take an exceptionally long time traveling around between sorting centers. You'll have to be in to sign for your SS X3 when it arrives or go pick it up later at the PO, but tracking stinks so you probably won't even be able to see when it's Out for Delivery.
> 
> ...


Aluminum helmet. Now that's good stuff right there. LOL :smilewinkgrin:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Actually im working on an ss x3 just arrived yesterday. Already adapted center to hold optic, in the process of machining a uni-pill as im calling them. Thicker aluminum plate milled recesses for emitters then mill back side to sit in the holes like normal pills would. . 

And u want that buy a yinding, kd driver, and ledsupply and mouser have optics galore. Ssx2....still need a modded plate to push emitters out 4mm roughly and kd drive won't fit (I dont think but....)


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> Actually im working on an ss x3 just arrived yesterday. Already adapted center to hold optic, in the process of machining a uni-pill as im calling them. Thicker aluminum plate milled recesses for emitters then mill back side to sit in the holes like normal pills would. .
> 
> And u want that buy a yinding, kd driver, and ledsupply and mouser have optics galore. Ssx2....still need a modded plate to push emitters out 4mm roughly and kd drive won't fit (I dont think but....)


You have no idea how much Greek there was to me in this post. 

I'm enjoying watching what you guys are doing to these lights, and following the ideas from concept to completion. If I wanted to do any of that stuff, I'd have to go spend $200.00 on tools before I even started! I bought my first Dremel here at 46 yrs old, because I've needed one from time to time, and I used it to modify the ABS GoPro mount Vancbiker sent me. It turned out pretty good, and that's probably about the extent of my "tinkering" intentions.

Let me share a little story just to give you an idea...and keep in mind there are plenty more where this came from. Shortly after getting my new bike last Sept., I obtained some red anodized suspension linkage bolts to replace the blue ones. I asked my LBS about the difficulty level, and they told me it doesn't get any easier. Perfect, because I'm not the handiest of handy men.

I got the first two out, and started in on the third and all seemed to be going well. I was so proud. Then just as I pulled that third one out, it appeared a small charge had detonated somewhere inside my bicycle. The frame was basically in two pieces. I stood there in horror, and realized that I couldn't even recall having done anything quite that stupid.

All I had to do was replace the pulled ones one at at time before removing the next of the three, and that never would have happened. Luckily I didn't even get a scratch on my bike, but if a few things had gone a little differently and my cat-like reflexes (Well, OK...a fairly old cat) had been a little slower at catching the mass of parts on the way down, it could have been ugly.

I did manage to get them in, and then promptly loaded it on the rack and took it to the LBS and had them use a torque wrench so I could make sure I didn't damage the bike or myself any further. :blush:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey as handy as I am (hell I make this stuff with a dremel, drill and hacksaw) and as much backround as I have, when it comes to stuff at home, ive rushed or gotten over confident and done my fair share of completely stupid screw ups. So far just in the last day ive tried to stab myself with the screw driver and tried to grind my fingers with my dremel lol. The cut from screw driver is right in the crease for my index finger on my LEFT hand. Ya the good hand lol.

So your not alone, that stunt with your bike, I literally had a mental picture of doing the EXACT same thing, just cause its something id do lol.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I'm making the next batch of the finned adapters this week. By request, I've changed the width of the mounting surface from 9.5mm to 14mm. I'm leaving it with just one hole. Those of you with Duo/Yinding clones that have the power cord coming out the bottom of the light will have to modify the adapter yourself or provide me with accurate dimensions to modify for you.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vanc, if guys like me with KD2 want one, hole for mount screw is 3mm (thats leaving enough space for screw head and not pinching wires) from front edge of mount. My stuff I cont care if it has holes,lol, Ill make my own.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I making the next batch of the finned adapters this week. By request, I've changed the width of the mounting surface from 9.5mm to 14mm


Does that mean you're leving the rest of the adapter the same width, Kevin? Guess you want to keep the whole thing under the Yinding's flat area and not extend the fins under the curved? Because otherwise there is enough room to widen the base to the same 20mm as is standard on MagicShine style mounts, the fins would still not protrude beyond the sides of the YD or its clones. Not only would this maximise heat transfer and mount stability but the top fin would get better air flow as well.

BTW the screw holes really have to be inset as deep as possible into the base or the adapter will not hold for long. This is a simple rule of construction which you see reflected in every MagicShine style mount, the base under the screw head is never more than 1mm. I'd recommend leaving no more than 2mm for the screw shaft to pass through the aluminum adapter - about the thickness of the lamp shell, if you're lucky. An M4 screw has a 7.5mm head, but if you can't find a metric drill bit then 19/64 (7.54mm) will be leave you some leeway.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Why does the screw have to be sunk in leaving minimal material between screw head and light head??? That is actually cause for a fail point. Screw should never be more than "flush" unless some other purpose requires it deeper. Less material means greater chance of screw being "pulled through".


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> Does that mean you're leving the rest of the adapter the same width, Kevin? Guess you want to keep the whole thing under the Yinding's flat area and not extend the fins under the curved? Because otherwise there is enough room to widen the base to the same 20mm as is standard on MagicShine style mounts, the fins would still not protrude beyond the sides of the YD or its clones. Not only would this maximise heat transfer and mount stability but the top fin would get better air flow as well.
> 
> BTW the screw holes really have to be inset as deep as possible into the base or the adapter will not hold for long. This is a simple rule of construction which you see reflected in every MagicShine style mount, the base under the screw head is never more than 1mm. I'd recommend leaving no more than 2mm for the screw shaft to pass through the aluminum adapter - about the thickness of the lamp shell, if you're lucky. An M4 screw has a 7.5mm head, but if you can't find a metric drill bit then 19/64 (7.54mm) will be leave you some leeway.


The overall size of the adapter will remain the same. This is due to material size, tooling, and fixturing compatibility with the other adapter styles. This helps keep the cost lower on what is a pretty low volume product.

The single hole provided will be a straight through hole with clearance for an M4 screw. If countersinking or counterboring was needed, it would be the responsibility of the user or an option I could do. I decided to not include a second for because I'm sure that all versions of the small dual emitter lights don't have the same spacing between mounting hole and power cable. At least one user of the finned adapter planned to cut a channel out the side since he wanted a side cable exit instead of bottom.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Why does the screw have to be sunk in leaving minimal material between screw head and light head??? That is actually cause for a fail point. Screw should never be more than "flush" unless some other purpose requires it deeper. Less material means greater chance of screw being "pulled through".


That's why I say leave at least 2mm in the aluminum, not just the ~.5mm - 1.5mm wall you'll find in the supplied plastic mounts. Plus a regular drill bit will leave a triangular profile recess, so the sides of the hole will still rise a couple mm above center. Which means if you sink a "flat" screw head 2.mm under the surface, you'll have still have about 2.3mm surrounding the shaft and 2.2mm supporting the head. That gives you about 4.5mm of a 10mm M4 screw's length inside the adapter and 5.5mm inside the lamp shell, the safest balance I could come up with. Again, it might be advisable to apply a drop of Loctite to the end of the screw threads, especially on a bar lamp, because normal vibrations there tend to loosen up the assembly pretty fast.

If you simply leave the screw head level with the bottom surface of the adapter plate, the screw has to pass through the aluminum's ~6.5mm before securing to the measily ~1.5mm deep threaded hole of the alloy shell. This will not hold long. Same principle wood screws always made with a collar one third the length of the entire shaft (or 1/2 that of the threads.) And why MagicShine style mounts all come with recessed screw mount holes.

This is what the mount looks like on the BT40S, for example:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Issue isn't amount of aluminum, its length of screw. Wood or any other material, u need a proper length fastener to have proper thread contact on other side. If trying to use stock screw it may be too short. Your going to use custom parts run run to hardware store and get longer m4 screws. Too much work for vanc and no money in it. For me he cuts mount and doesn't have to even make holes ill drill what I need.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Tell tigris me why MagicShine mounts ALL have recesses for the screw head. Do you really think it is just so they can save on the length of the screw? Not only that but there really ought to be a rubber or lock washer under the screw head, especially for all those clones that don't feature the little O-ring that Yinding incorporates into its mount surface. Without attention to these design details, I'm afraid you lamp will not stay fixed in place. Guess how I know this (and why I always ride with a phillips screw driver in my jersey pocket. )


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

andychrist said:


> Tell tigris me why MagicShine mounts ALL have recesses for the screw head. Do you really think it is just so they can save on the length of the screw? Not only that but there really ought to be a rubber or lock washer under the screw head, especially for all those clones that don't feature the little O-ring that Yinding incorporates into its mount surface. Without attention to these design details, I'm afraid you lamp will not stay fixed in place. Guess how I know this (and why I always ride with a phillips screw driver in my jersey pocket. )


Actually I think the magicshine mount is recessed so that the screw can sit flat against the mount. Also, they need to recess it so that the ,out maintain the round profile so you can mount it on a handlebar.

I think Tigris is right, just go to the hardware store and buy a longer screw so you have the max thread engagement into the light head without bottoming out the screw.
When I got vancbikers' mount for my magicshine, the original screw was so short it couldn't engage any thread on the lighthead at all.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

pwu_1 has it correct, the c'bore on the original mount lets the screw be clear of the handle bar. I'd advise a drop of Loctite 222 or other low strength thread lock compound when attaching one of my adapters to a light. Cheap insurance that it won't vibrate loose. 

I have a small supply of stainless M4-.7 x 10 button socket head screws that I can provide to folks without access to a hardware or home improvement store. I've tried to avoid doing the hardware as there is so much variation in the Chinese lights. Some are threaded deep enough to get 5-6 mm into the body and others will barely take 3mm.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Good point, the screw head does need to sit below the curve of the plastic mount so it can make uniform contact with the handle bar. Still it is advisable to get the base of the screw head as short a distance as possible to the threaded material, this really does help keep the assembly from working loose. Again I still recommend the application of Loctite to the shell threads, help guarantee your lamp will make it home intact.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh ya loctite, blue 222 stuff, i forget thats not a given,lol. Anything thats steel screw into aluminum 222 loctite should be used.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

222 is kind of pinkish and low strength. Fine for the M3 and M4 sizes. Blue is 242 and considered medium strength. Sometimes a bit much for small screws.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Second generation finned adapter now available*

Here is a picture showing the second generation regular finned adapter with the 14mm wide contact surface. Alongside it is a custom "jumbo" version for tigris.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Vancbiker said:


> Here is a picture showing the second generation regular finned adapter with the 14mm wide contact surface. Alongside it is a custom "jumbo" version for tigris.


Looks good! Now I kind of wished I would have waited for this version, haha


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

I'm not seeing the Jumbo on your site, Kevin. Is it just being bashful?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The jumbo is my custom order specially for my ssx3. Next week im gonna order a new wide one too so I have size options pending on needs of lights. Probably grab some generics too 

Thnx Kevin, looks perfect. See what damage i can to with my ssx3 lol.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Looks like it would fit the YD perfectly. Thought Vanc said he couldn't do this because of limitation on material size.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Its because the fins are almost bigger than the yinding itself and weight mount will add. I bet he'd make you one if you wanna pay for it. But its size vs yinding it isn't worth it, the 14mm contact plate is perfect for yinding/kd2. Plus outer sections of large contact plate wont even contact the base of yinding/kd2 housing. Fins wrap around before becoming smooth surface, so find and part of contact patch will do nothing, too far from head. Remember electronic and emitters need to heat up to run at optimal. There is a high and low range for optimal function.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris you don't have a Yinding, yours is the KD clone, remember?  There is a 20mm wide flat mount area on my YD, no fins. Exact same as SS X3. Am sure the emitters would heat up just fine regardless.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

andychrist said:


> Looks like it would fit the YD perfectly. Thought Vanc said he couldn't do this because of limitation on material size.


You could use the jumbo one with a Yinding, though I think it would be overkill and look funny.

The "regular" finned adapter fits a material size that I bought 12 feet of. That's one of the reasons it is sized as it is. It also looks in pretty decent proportion to these small dual emitter lights.

As far as size, I can make anything on the CNC up to 16" x 14" x 10". That would be a heck of a light adapter!!!!

The jumbo was made to special order. If it draws enough interest, I may do a batch of them. Until then, it's going to remain a custom.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya I thought yinding and kd2 had that narrow strip on the bottom, I stand corrected lol. My yinding will be here Thursday 

But ya im over thinking it a bit (built both my computers so things get far more involved when tweaking, applied that here). I forget you build custom lights, got the knowledge of works, doesn't work, and overkill down.

No way id put my 20mm mount on these though, too much bulk for me but im using them in helmet. Andy is seeing how much he can cool his down and I think on the bars so weight doesn't matter.


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## Ivan87 (Oct 30, 2012)

does anyone have photos of the mount on a yinding? also just wanted people's opinion of the affect the heat would have on carbon bars? 

cheers


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Doesn't get hot enough to effect carbon bars because this is just the mount on light side, I still have a mount between that and the bars. Heat won't reach your carbon bars with this if you use a standard plastic gopro mount.

Or you can do as many of us do, mount like this:



















Ya Andy my one for $8 I found on amazon from china came today.

Also pics on first page of this thread of it on a yinding.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

This mount works as good as it looks (grrrrreat IMO)!!! I have high hopes that outdoor results will be equally as good as my initial indoor tests and it will extend the temp. range of some of my smaller/hotter running lights through the summer months. Here's what my infrared thermometer said.

Elapsed time from cold light to thermal step down on high (NO Fan):

Stock mount - 3:58 / Finned mount - 5:28

Light-head case temp. after 30 min. in front of fan on high:

Stock mount - 121.6° F / Finned mount - 114.2° F

Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Really you had thermal step down, assuming that's with no air flow. Your temps are concurrent with my thermal tests from internal readings of my kd2. Going to run thermal tests on the yinding tonight.

The mod to this mount, basically version 2 (for yinding not my custom mount) is bigger contact area. Help draw more heat from head into the mount, as well as fully cover mounting oring on the bottom (which as im seeing right this second it probably seals but oring is bulged to either side of mount).

Thnx for thermal camera readings, something I dont have YET, need a new one for automotive work, well digitalized infrared thermometer anyway. No pics but good accurate readings.

Oh and pic of mine now (just got yinding and switched upgrades over from kd2)


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh btw, im now set up to try and make my own heatsinks. Gotta adapt my drill press thing next and get a milling adapter for it. Can't do anything as nice as vanc nor can I do a gopro/heatsink combo like his, just trying to make heat sink for top of lighthead to compensate for my need to push these lights harder.

Then try to make my own light heads, have vanc make me gopro adapters for them.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Really you had thermal step down, assuming that's with no air flow. Your temps are concurrent with my thermal tests from internal readings of my kd2. Going to run thermal tests on the yinding tonight.


Correct, "NO Airflow". Case temp @ step down - 150°
Mole


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> View attachment 980128
> 
> 
> This mount works as good as it looks (grrrrreat IMO)!!! I have high hopes that outdoor results will be equally as good as my initial indoor tests and it will extend the temp. range of some of my smaller/hotter running lights through the summer months. Here's what my infrared thermometer said.
> ...


What was the ambient temp of the 30 min. test with the fan? If step down isn't until 150, I'm starting to really think that even at 90F ambient temp., with just a little airflow...like maybe going 6-9 mph, it's probably not going to step down.

I really think it's almost a moot point, because minus a descent that is 25 mph plus, I'm not sure there's a reason to go above medium when paired with a good helmet light with a good spot and throw. I put a lot of worry over that without being able to test it this winter, but in action...medium isn't that far off from high and works fine for what I need it to do.

Tigris...I'll be interested to see if you can do a "before and after" to illustrate where you start with a stock GB Yinding, and where you end up from the perspective of intensity, spot size, and thermal properties. In other words, I'm anxious to see how your modded light performs.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> ..... If step down isn't until 150, I'm starting to really think that even at 90F ambient temp., with just a little airflow...like maybe going 6-9 mph, it's probably not going to step down.


Keep in mind that step down is a protective function, probably not something that one should be letting happen often or be near much of the time. It's easier on the electronics in the light if it runs cooler.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Vancbiker said:


> Keep in mind that step down is a protective function, probably not something that one should be letting happen often or be near much of the time. It's easier on the electronics in the light if it runs cooler.


Yep...and that's why I was worried from the second I got the Yinding and started shining it around the house and realized it was getting REALLY hot, quickly. But, I also found that in my first real world test it didn't step down at all on my 1:45 ride. How hot did it get...no clue, but that's at least a good sign in my mind.

For under $20 I can get your drilled mount, a cheap clamp mount, and one of the modest sized fins attached to the top with thermal adhesive like I saw pictured in another thread. To me that's an ounce of prevention. Hopefully there will be some tests with that combination, which is pretty simple and doesn't require taking anything apart and modifying it.

I have no doubt that there will be a direct correlation between how long the light lasts, and how hot it runs. Electronics don't like heat. That's the whole reason I'm following these threads!!

I'll be interested to see if anyone does any definitive tests with the added fins and your mount to see how hot it gets.

Oh..and I'm also curious to know how much less the heat is with it on medium, if anyone with a gun wants to test the GB Yinding for that fun little fact.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

NW, temp tests are coming soon. My "upgrades" were nothing more than output enhancement: optics, noctigons which keep emitters cooler, remote switch and Van's gopro mount. I did boost the driver by 500mA but that was to step up medium mainly, but have more high if I need it since its set with 10deg spot optics for helmet use. Basically 20% increase to all levels.





I will do my standard temp tests shortly, if i can figure out how to get the thermocouple inside without drilling a new hole. Otherwise it and the mounting screw oring are going to get very intimate lol.



Also I am going to make a heat sink probably tomorrow night. Can't find anything to buy that's long, narrow and really low profile. Now that I can machine straight lines, control depth etc, ill give it a go.

If you don't want to bolt ur heat sink down, id go with thermal epoxy instead of tape. Yinding fins have dips in the top unlike the kd2 that will greatly reduce thermal conductive abilities to the sink.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

NWAtrailyguy said:


> What was the ambient temp of the 30 min. test with the fan? If step down isn't until 150, I'm starting to really think that even at 90F ambient temp., with just a little airflow...like maybe going 6-9 mph, it's probably not going to step down.
> 
> I really think it's almost a moot point, because minus a descent that is 25 mph plus, I'm not sure there's a reason to go above medium when paired with a good helmet light with a good spot and throw. I put a lot of worry over that without being able to test it this winter, but in action...medium isn't that far off from high and works fine for what I need it to do.


1) 75° was the ambient temp on the 30 min. test.

2) At 6 mph in 90° eventually the light will step down. Last week We had a 98° day and it was approx. 90° when I did my slow speed testing it required 8 mph to keep the light from stepping down. What you have to remember is that this is not a controlled test as much as ride observations so they only mean so much. What it does tell you is that at 90° and 8 mph the light is right on the edge of stepping down or approx 150° case temp.

3) When I was measuring the lux output of some of the optics I also measured the med. setting which worked out to be 60% of maximum output.

4) I did the 30min./fan test with the light on med. Was surprised to see 111°. This was with the stock mount and an ambient temp of 78°.
Mole


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Yinding fins have dips in the top unlike the kd2 that will greatly reduce thermal conductive abilities to the sink.


D'oh! That explains how ledoman got away with using his 23mm x 25mm heat sink. Thanks for the heads up, tigris. Guess I'll continue development of my cross-splined grid that fills up both the curved "dips" and rectangular grooves. Something to keep me out of trouble this weekend.


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## NWAtrailyguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MRMOLE said:


> 1) 75° was the ambient temp on the 30 min. test.
> 
> 2) At 6 mph in 90° eventually the light will step down. Last week We had a 98° day and it was approx. 90° when I did my slow speed testing it required 8 mph to keep the light from stepping down. What you have to remember is that this is not a controlled test as much as ride observations so they only mean so much. What it does tell you is that at 90° and 8 mph the light is right on the edge of stepping down or approx 150° case temp.
> 
> ...


That pretty well sums it up for me. It runs too hot, regardless of the improvements in the design, if you're planning on riding it on warm summer nights before it cools off substantially. With it getting dark at close to 9 pm, that would mean some awfully late rides!

It doesn't sound like medium is a great solution. I'll look back, but I'm assuming the 111F wasn't that far off of the temp with the 30 min fan test on high, right?

Your "real world" example is exactly what I was looking for. At an average somewhere around 8 mph at 90*, the light is on the verge of "protecting itself" from damage. That doesn't bode well long term. I rode for 1:45 at around 8 mph, but it was at 70*. That won't happen in our summers.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

111 on stock mount isn't surprising with a big piece of insulating plastic. Based off his readings on high it wouldn't break 100 on medium with finned mount. 



If you want more cooling and using it on the bars it gets really easy, vancs noun then aluminum gopro handlebar mount, like$8 on amazon including prime. Gives u a big heat sink down into the bars (though by that point is warm not hot as u get to the bars)



Helmet use im adding a top heat sink for warm summer nights.

Btw, Mole have u tried flipping the mount to face the other way, I was getting slightly lower temps with tabs in back instead of the front.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's my new custom mount for the ss x3, Kevin does some awesome and precise work, fits the groove for the mount perfectly. Not tight but doesn't move around either. Makes my life easy for drilling it and the case.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> 111 on stock mount isn't surprising with a big piece of insulating plastic. Based off his readings on high it wouldn't break 100 on medium with finned mount.
> 
> Btw, Mole have u tried flipping the mount to face the other way, I was getting slightly lower temps with tabs in back instead of the front.


Spot on on your med intensity w/finned mount temp estimates + thanks for the extra 2° drop by turning the adapter around.

30 min. temp. test ( fan cooled/med intensity/finned mount/ambient temp 77.7°):

100.1° / flipped as per tigris99 suggestion - 98.4°

Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

i figure it has to do with air flow, the mount with tabs front creats a wall blocking good airflow to the rest of the adapter mount, where as tabs in rear most of mount gets air before air is deflected by tab mount.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

AIght custom mount completed. Hole set up works better than I expected.



Andy, starting on Yinding/kd2 heat sink tomorrow. Decided not messing with the dips in the yinding case, just ignoring them. Also cant do a lip to interlock into every fin, well can possibly but now I know the limits of my new dremel router table set up, though 100x better than what I tried to do before, its not precise enough (and limited sizes of bits). So going to do 2 or 3 that fit into, beyond that will just sit flush on top of case fins, use thermal epoxy (hope its strong enough)in the interlocking fins to mount. Not keen on drilling a hole in this case lol.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah tigris the Yinding's fins are too tightly spaced to take advantage of each one. On my revised design I'm just gonna engage the front, middle, and back grooves, plus the two dips that are right above the emitters, and not the one running down the center. That will give me 3 x 2 cross pieces for stability and plenty enough for dissipation. Combined with Vancbiker's finned mount the YD should never overheat.

Your SS X3 set up is awesome.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Internet is flooded with bar mounts for GoPro devices. Like this:
Bike Aluminum Handlebar Longer Mount with Hexagon Wrench-6.63 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

But is there a similar mount with a quick release?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I know this is a bit off-topic, but you all have been discussing case temps at thermal stepdown here. What is a good target temperature to have thermal stepdown occur at which would be safe for the electronics? I have a BLF user modding my HD-016 with the KD programmable driver and he is asking this question - see his posts here.

I see the Yinding case was measured at 150° (post #98). Is this good? Or too high? The KD driver is set stock at 130.

Thanks,
-Garry


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Yeah I've been wondering about that too. Of course measuring the temperature of the case doesn't tell us the exact temperature of the emitters and PCB, assuming those would be higher but by how much? Cree data sheet for XM-L2 is based on operating temperature of 85ºC which is about 185ºF. Step down occurs when case is around 150ºF, or ~65.ºC. Anyway also assume that safe operating temperature would have to excede Cree's continuous operating temperature, question is by what margin. Though as Vancbiker mentioned, you do not really want to push your system close to the step-down point, in the interest of preserving its overall lifespan.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Cree says temp max before they fry. Optimal led temp is around 25 C to 30 C .

Cut off wise, 130F is about right I wouldn't go any higher. That's due to internal electronics getting too hot and getting smoked.

But thing is case temp will be higher than driver temp at least for a while. For me to trigger thermal on any light Case is reaching 150-160, yet thermal is set to 130-135.

So leave stock setting at 130 (or go lower if you want). But don't raise it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Appel said:


> Internet is flooded with bar mounts for GoPro devices. Like this:
> 
> Bike Aluminum Handlebar Longer Mount with Hexagon Wrench-6.63 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
> 
> But is there a similar mount with a quick release?


And only way to make them tool less is gopro thumb screws. No one makes a qr style yet. But gopro thumb screws make it alot easier.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

The thermal cut off feature on a driver is usually based on the temperature of a thermistor integral to the micro-processor of the driver. That thermistor is insulated from the case temperature by the driver PCB material and the epoxy case of the chip. That's why the case temp gets so much higher than what the cut off temp is set at. 

On some of the lights I have built, I design in a feature that provides case contact to the driver PCB and the top of the micro-processor chip so it gets a better thermal connection. My case to cut off temperature difference was around 3C or 5.5F on the light that I first did that on.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vancbiker said:


> The thermal cut off feature on a driver is usually based on the temperature of a thermistor integral to the micro-processor of the driver. That thermistor is insulated from the case temperature by the driver PCB material and the epoxy case of the chip. That's why the case temp gets so much higher than what the cut off temp is set at.
> 
> On some of the lights I have built, I design in a feature that provides case contact to the driver PCB and the top of the micro-processor chip so it gets a better thermal connection. My case to cut off temperature difference was around 3C or 5.5F on the light that I first did that on.


Is that why the set the temps to trip what they do, to compensate for lack of thermal contact? Its my guess cause I know things could handle a few more degrees than cut off but I wouldn't like the driver hanging out at 150 all the time.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

tigris99 said:


> And only way to make them tool less is gopro thumb screws. No one makes a qr style yet. But gopro thumb screws make it alot easier.


It's a pity. Would it not be nice to have a mount that was a mix between the K-edge style mount and the Hope style mount?

Bike Aluminum Handlebar Longer Mount with Hexagon Wrench-6.63 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh I agree 100x its be amazing cause taking those things on and off gets to be annoying.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Well maybe something like Amazon.com : Toughsty® Motorcycle Bike Handlebar Mount Clamp w/ Tripod Adapter for GoPro Hero 1 2 3 3+ : Camera & Photo which is an overly complicated (for our purposes) plastic adapter, perhaps could be flip-flopped with Amazon.com : Smatree® Aluminum Tripod Mount Adapter for Gopro Hero4 Hero3+ Hero 3 2 1 HD Cameras -Threaded End (Blue) : Underwater Camcorders : Camera & Photo but that's where the thermal path would end. 

Anyway, plastic unit they have on Amazon is piece of crap, hope there might be something like it but better elsewhere. Pretty sure I actually saw an alloy QR GoPro mount somewhere just the other day, but ignored it because the diameter of the clamp was too large for any of my bikes' handle bars.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vanc, your about to get more of my money, lol. Gonna need a custom fitted one for the bt21. the 12mm yinding one works decent for it but mount contact point is recessed. Ill pm you with measurments in a couple days.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Vanc, your about to get more of my money, lol.


Cool! :thumbsup:

Recessed mounting surfaces are pretty common. MJ872, several clone lights, and apparently a version of Gemini Olympia.

This is one of the areas that it has sometimes been tough to supply a quality modification. I get dimensions from someone using a wooden school ruler with shaky hands. I then cut to those dimensions and they are not happy with the fit or lack of fit :madman:.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I use a $200 digital caliper


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> I use a $200 digital caliper


That will do!


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## SPE (Aug 4, 2014)

*A2 with two kinds adapters*

check this bike light with two kinds adapters. O ring and GoPro light adapter.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Interesting light but this is about special custom made cnc ones for other lights


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Postage price increase*

USPS has raised postage for First Class parcels effective June 1, 2015. Because of this, I have to raise the price for US postage from $2.75 to $3.00. International postage will be quoted on a per order basis, but typically will be $8.00.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

One thing about the GoPro mounts is that they tend to sit high on top of the helmet. I like it low so it doesn't catch on branches etc.

I was able to mount one of these 90 degree adapters with some 3M Dual Lock and a small velcro strap just above my visor, for the most compact mount possible.
I'll try and get a pic of it on the helmet early next week.

https://cheapatleast.surinternet.co..._GoPro_Reflex_APN..._90_degrees_adapter_3.jpg

I suppose if you're bold you could put a short screw through the front into the helmet. There are aluminum versions too.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I have some of those, no way possible that they would work where I ride, one brush from a tree branch and lights gone. But neat idea!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> One thing about the GoPro mounts is that they tend to sit high on top of the helmet.


So I have to confess...

Despite making GoPro light adapters, I don't use one for that very reason.

I mount my lights (DIY stuff) as low as possible, pretty much just above where the visor attaches to the helmet. Back in the old days. I had a NR halogen light on the top of the helmet get caught on a fir branch and because it had a velcro strap type mount, It pulled really hard before the branch came loose. Had a sore neck for a couple weeks.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya they do sit high. Personally with my helmet im screwed either way cause mount is clr towards the top, the little extra with the adapter isn't going to matter for me. So id rather just make sure my light doesn't overheat.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Mine is surprisingly secure. Screwed in it would be nearly bomb-proof. 
Have you tried Dual Lock? It's pretty strong stuff, and I have a secondary velcro strap as well.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No I haven't and did my first trail ride (been stuck on pavement) and no issues being up that high. Ive already caught a "low bridge" in the past so when I see anything I question I duck.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Here are some pics of the little adapter. It's quite secure with the dual lock underneath ane the velcro one-wrap on top. A screw would make it bomb-proof.





This is the lowest I can get it with "normal" GoPro mount




Ofroad'bent said:


> One thing about the GoPro mounts is that they tend to sit high on top of the helmet. I like it low so it doesn't catch on branches etc.
> 
> I was able to mount one of these 90 degree adapters with some 3M Dual Lock and a small velcro strap just above my visor, for the most compact mount possible.
> I'll try and get a pic of it on the helmet early next week.
> ...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Much nicer than the standard GoPro setup!:thumbsup:


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's the new bt21 mount installed:


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Here's the new bt21 mount installed:


As soon as my bank transfer shows up in my paypal account I'm ordering one too. Thanks for doing the prep work (specs to Vancbiker) for us.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vanc, works great, think mole will need one with bigger fins though  Crazy a** likes 100deg nights. Though may not need it.

Also, Offroad, you gave me an idea...I have a cheap gopro aluminum mount that extends gopro a few inches out in front of my bars (dont use it because I want my light centered so have an extension with the tube instead). But the gopro hinge itself is just held on by screws, comes off (think they sell them as aluminum skateboard mounts for gopro). WOnder is I can mount that to my helmet, light being on top bugs me anyway.


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## mentawais (Feb 16, 2005)

VancBiker , I,d like to know your email to make a order
regards


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Pm him and he'll get you the info


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Or follow his website link in his signature and click the email link on his website.

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> ...Vanc, works great, think mole will need one with bigger fins though  Crazy a** likes 100deg nights. Though may not need it..


Actually, that might not be such a bad idea. If made a little wider with longer fins that might really help someone who lives in a really hot area.

Another option might be to have it made out of copper. Lastly, I ran across *this article* while doing some searches. Seems if you coat the aluminum with a very thin coat of "zinc oxide" it will dissipate heat 4 times faster than bare aluminum.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I was hoping someone would catch on to this- it would be very cool to see a real low-profile aluminum GoPro mount you could glue or strap to your helmet. I'd probably just leave it there full time.



tigris99 said:


> Vanc, works great, think mole will need one with bigger fins though  Crazy a** likes 100deg nights. Though may not need it.
> 
> Also, Offroad, you gave me an idea...I have a cheap gopro aluminum mount that extends gopro a few inches out in front of my bars (dont use it because I want my light centered so have an extension with the tube instead). But the gopro hinge itself is just held on by screws, comes off (think they sell them as aluminum skateboard mounts for gopro). WOnder is I can mount that to my helmet, light being on top bugs me anyway.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

Ofroad'bent, I've got a stoopid question. On your 'bent mtb, how do you operate your helmet light without getting too much glare back from the cockpit? I can't use a headlamp on either of my 'bents because of that; not as bad on my uprights. The silver alloy handlebars on both my SWB and LWB really exacerbate the problem though, guess it would not be so bad were they matte black. Even the gloss black bars on my very upright 27" cargo bike reflect enough light that I'd have to keep my head up all the time if I rode with a lamp on the lid at night. (Fortunately, with Kevin's mount I can run my Yinding on the bars on High along with an elliptically modded 880 clone and have plenty enough light to find the way back to my campsite after dark.)


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> ....it would be very cool to see a real low-profile aluminum GoPro mount you could glue or strap to your helmet. I'd probably just leave it there full time.


I've thought about it. It's easy to make a version of my standard adapter with the 3 tab pattern. The tough part would be how to figure out a somewhat universal contour for the surface that fits against the helmet. Loads of variations in rib placement and shapes between brands and styles.


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## eTrex_FSR (Dec 18, 2009)

tigris99 said:


> Here's the new bt21 mount installed:


Hello Tigris99, 
Is this second cable a remote switch? Is it the fried lamp you received first and replaced it? Or already the replacement light and somehow you found a way to remove the original driver and solder the cables? How did you get the driver out in the end?
Would be great to know and see some pics if possible.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

andychrist said:


> Ofroad'bent, I've got a stoopid question. On your 'bent mtb, how do you operate your helmet light without getting too much glare back from the cockpit? I can't use a headlamp on either of my 'bents because of that; not as bad on my uprights. The silver alloy handlebars on both my SWB and LWB really exacerbate the problem though, guess it would not be so bad were they matte black. Even the gloss black bars on my very upright 27" cargo bike reflect enough light that I'd have to keep my head up all the time if I rode with a lamp on the lid at night. (Fortunately, with Kevin's mount I can run my Yinding on the bars on High along with an elliptically modded 880 clone and have plenty enough light to find the way back to my campsite after dark.)


Maybe my setup is different, but the helmet light doesn't light up the bars at all. I think I'm pretty upright on my offroader compared with most road 'bents.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Info in the bt21 thread about getting the driver out. Its not something easy to do, takes alot of time a patience to do it without damaging the driver.

And ya second wire is for a remote switch.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OK so heres what i came up with. the tape they use on gopro mounts is INSANE so hoping it works here for now. Can pay me enough to put a screw through my helmet lol.










Vanc, the base mount your talking about, me its easy, more or less a gopro curved helmet mount. Just not as big obviously. though my helmet has a slight ridge that runs down the center, the 3m tape they uses seems to be thick enough to compensate. BUt Id DEFINITELY be down for one.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Helping Gemini's Olympia beat the heat*









Here's a pic of My Olympia's and their new upgrade. The one without the mount attached is the newer head design (what most owners have) and required some material removal from the front of the mount interface for a flush fit. It's supposed to have better thermal transfer but actually is much more sensitive and needed the finned mount (worked fine last night set on 80% in 100°+ temps). The other light "Branding Iron" has never stepped down for any reason, was my main off-road bar light for 3 yrs. and probably done at least 50 rides where the temp never went below 100° and never given me any trouble. I've measured 180° light-head temps. indoors and felt guilty and shut it down but I'm sure it's gotten hotter that that on the trail before. After all that I felt it deserved a finned mount. So if you wonder why I never seem to worry too much about running my lights to step-down or constantly running them in 100° weather, now you know. Branding Iron has taught me there are more important things to worry about than overheating your light, like how bad a mark it's going to leave if you accidently touch it on a ride!
These lights a tougher than you think.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Looks good! 

Your lights name made me chuckle a bit. One of those things you learn to only touch once. Kind of like a brake rotor after a long descent, stop for your buds and let the [email protected]# D%^& thing hit your calf.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

well thats well said, they can handle some serious heat. I always look at electronics like computers, cooler the better, wasnt sure what temps I would actually trust these at. But if you got a "branding iron" for a bar light, guess its not bad then lol.

Vanc.....been there done that, but went to itch my leg hit my arm on it. That took a good couple of weeks to heal up lol.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> well thats well said, they can handle some serious heat. I always look at electronics like computers, cooler the better, wasnt sure what temps I would actually trust these at. But if you got a "branding iron" for a bar light, guess its not bad then lol.
> 
> Vanc.....been there done that, but went to itch my leg hit my arm on it. That took a good couple of weeks to heal up lol.


Of course cooler is better, if I didn't believe that I wouldn't have 4 going on 5 of the VFM's (Vancbiker Finned Mounts). It's just a story about one particular amazingly tough light. Most lights would probably have fried under similar circumstances. Just more "Raw Data".
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey vanc if u make a bt21 mount with the fins fair bit larger lmk.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Hey vanc if u make a bt21 mount with the fins fair bit larger lmk.


On your prototype, I built it with my current material size and fixturing for the Yinding finned adapter. Keeping the similarities between adapters helps keep costs down. I can always do a larger one as a custom, at a fair bit more money, similar to the one I did for your 880 clone.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I've added a version with custom machining to fit the Nitefighter BT21S. Adds about 3 square inches of additional heatsink area to help keep the lighthead cool. Pricing stays the same as the "regular" finned adapter at $18 ea. As with all my adapters, the user will need to source their own screw if the stock one is too short.

Props to Tigris99 for being the guinea pig on this version and getting me the dimensions to build to!!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*


Vancbiker said:



I've added a version with custom machining to fit the Nitefighter BT21S. Adds about 3 square inches of additional heatsink area to help keep the lighthead cool. Pricing stays the same as the "regular" finned adapter at $18 ea. As with all my adapters, the user will need to source their own screw if the stock one is too short.

Click to expand...

*


Vancbiker said:


> Mount looks good. I'd been using the modified Olympia mount (see post 151) as it was the only one I had that fit. Surprisingly it dropped the case temp. almost 10° with very little interface contact and a lot of air gaps. Looking forward to seeing results using a mount with the correct fit. I did the paypal authorization so as soon as the mount arrives I'll run some thermal tests and make a post. Glad I bought the big tube of Artic Silver 5. Thanks Vancbiker and of course Tigris too!
> Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I think i posted case temps with mount in the bt21 thread, if not I can do it tomorrow.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> I've added a version with custom machining to fit the Nitefighter BT21S. Adds about 3 square inches of additional heatsink area to help keep the lighthead cool. Pricing stays the same as the "regular" finned adapter at $18 ea. As with all my adapters, the user will need to source their own screw if the stock one is too short.
> 
> Props to Tigris99 for being the guinea pig on this version and getting me the dimensions to build to!!


SWEEEEET! I'm in for one. I'm already planning my next bar set-up.

The Plan > Up-grade Gloworm X2 ( v3 ) to neutral 3C emitters. Upgrade Nitefighter BT21 with spot optics, use Vanc Gopro adaptor and mount on bars for bar boost purposes ( not that I need it with the GWX2).

Just the other night I received my neutral XP-L V6 3C drop-in with Noctigon MCPCB soldered to brass pill. I tested it last night while riding and I almost couldn't believe how bright it is. It actually out throws my SSX3 and it's not really that tight of a spot! Wow! I'm impressed! Can't wait to give it a test run on the helmet. SSX3 has the wider beam pattern though.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

MRMOLE said:


> View attachment 996936
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of My Olympia's and their new upgrade. The one without the mount attached is the newer head design (what most owners have) and required some material removal from the front of the mount interface for a flush fit. It's supposed to have better thermal transfer but actually is much more sensitive and needed the finned mount (worked fine last night set on 80% in 100°+ temps). The other light "Branding Iron" has never stepped down for any reason, was my main off-road bar light for 3 yrs. and probably done at least 50 rides where the temp never went below 100° and never given me any trouble. I've measured 180° light-head temps. indoors and felt guilty and shut it down but I'm sure it's gotten hotter that that on the trail before. After all that I felt it deserved a finned mount. So if you wonder why I never seem to worry too much about running my lights to step-down or constantly running them in 100° weather, now you know. *Branding Iron has taught me there are more important things to worry about than overheating your light, like how bad a mark it's going to leave if you accidently touch it on a ride!
> ...


Mole, I don't know why but the entirety of this last post just has me giggling the more I think about it. :lol:

In honor of this ( and how "Branding Iron" has improved your night riding ), I giveth thee all the rights to the "Branded" theme song. :cornut: ( you can thank me later... )


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Cat-man-do said:


> Mole, I don't know why but the entirety of this last post just has me giggling the more I think about it. :lol:
> 
> In honor of this ( and how "Branding Iron" has improved your night riding ), I giveth thee all the rights to the "Branded" theme song. :cornut: ( you can thank me later... )


Well at least you didn't waste this on someone who had no idea where it came from. There are a few of us who will recognize this as nostalgic when you reference 50+ year old TV programs. Thanks for the laugh and I'm glad you enjoyed the "Branding Iron" story.
Mole


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

Any chance of a version for the BT40S ?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The info about bt40 version is in the bt40 thread, but yes there is a bt40s version.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> The info about bt40 version is in the bt40 thread, but yes there is a bt40s version.


Thanks again tigris99. I will get one on order...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Desert Runner said:


> Any chance of a version for the BT40S ?


So far, I have only done a BT40S version as a mod to one one of my Magicshine version adapters. That adapter style does not have the fins. I could do the mods required for a BT40S to one of the finned adapters.

PM me or follow the link in my sig to e-mail me for pricing.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

Vancbiker said:


> So far, I have only done a BT40S version as a mod to one one of my Magicshine version adapters. That adapter style does not have the fins. I could do the mods required for a BT40S to one of the finned adapters.
> 
> PM me or follow the link in my sig to e-mail me for pricing.


I just sent over an email to you regarding an finned version for the BT40S.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Vanc, to do a finned mount that will actually help cool the head is going to take a lot of work. The magicshine adapter doesn't have enough contact area to do any good really. This is one of those expensive and need to send you a lighthead type ones to do a finned version that would actually help (though finned version totally unnecessary for the bt40s)


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Vancbiker said:


> So far, I have only done a BT40S version as a mod to one one of my Magicshine version adapters. That adapter style does not have the fins. *I could do the mods required for a BT40S to one of the finned adapters. *
> 
> PM me or follow the link in my sig to e-mail me for pricing.


Finned or not, it would be nice. Finned probably better for people who live in the hotter climates

I just figured out last week that I might have to buy one of those Gearbest Aluminum handlebar extensions if I want to keep using the Nitefighter stuff. That's because when I mount the smart phone to the stem for navigating purposes it blocks off access to the lamps. I don't need it all the time but on occasion I need the convenience of having my GPS on the bars. With the Gloworm I never had a problem.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

He has the non finned version (I got him the specs to modify the magicshine one) but a finned version the machining required is going to require more cause the bottom of the bt40s (and bt70) isn't flat, kind of funky, the wire hole and screw hole flat area is actually recessed into the fins. Plenty solid for normal use but heat transfer is almost non existent.

If people want the finned version I can get Vanc what he needs to make one that will be able to make case contact so it will help with heat dissipation


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> He has the non finned version (I got him the specs to modify the magicshine one) but a finned version the machining required is going to require more cause the bottom of the bt40s (and bt70) isn't flat, kind of funky, the wire hole and screw hole flat area is actually recessed into the fins. Plenty solid for normal use but heat transfer is almost non existent.
> 
> If people want the finned version I can get Vanc what he needs to make one that will be able to make case contact so it will help with heat dissipation


That would be great tigris99 Here in phoenix @ 7pm the air temps have been 100 plus. I haven't measured the temp of the light at medium setting but it felt like it wanted to melt my glove after an hour ride..


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Medium?? Mine is modded now and doesn't even get warm on medium still, high it gets warm, turbo it gets HOT if sitting around without airflow for a while. But highest temps ive had were 85 at night so far.

Beginning to sound like Vanc may need to come up with " south west desert " versions of his finned mounts lol.

I do know with his yinding, bt21 and custom mounts he made me that if you use an aluminum gopro adapter for the bars IT HELPS ALOT. The heat does transfer all the way down that way.

@ Cat: I love my extension, gotta order another one at some point. I uses the full aluminum version and can get my heat transfer all the way down to it.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> Medium?? Mine is modded now and doesn't even get warm on medium still, high it gets warm, turbo it gets HOT if sitting around without airflow for a while. But highest temps ive had were 85 at night so far.
> 
> Beginning to sound like Vanc may need to come up with " south west desert " versions of his finned mounts lol.
> 
> ...


Sounds like i need to get the Southwest tigris99 version. LOL
But thanks again for your help....


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well my light actually runs hotter than stock because mines pushing about 1.2A per emitter vs stock about 0.85 (850mA). But it just doesn't get as hot here as it does for you guys. I live in north western Illinois.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

tigris99 said:


> Well my light actually runs hotter than stock because mines pushing about 1.2A per emitter vs stock about 0.85 (850mA). But it just doesn't get as hot here as it does for you guys. I live in north western Illinois.


Well maybe i keep mine stock...LOL I'll start looking for a gopro adapter. as for a clamp you have any suggestions other what others have shown.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I use the cheap Chinese aluminum bar adapters that's it. Cheap and just as good as expensive ones. All you need unless you want more of a qr bar clamp, which dont come in aluminum.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Narrow vs Wide VFMs*











Last week I did some thermal tests compairing max case temp on my Duo using both these mounts inside my house (82° ambient temp.) and in my garage (103° ambient temp.). Results were interesting/surprising to me and I thought the case temp. differences between the 21° different environments related to what you guy have been talking about. I ran each mount multiple times indoor and out and here's the averages on the temp. readings I got.

INDOOR (82°): Narrow mount - 120.25° / Wide mount - 122.25°

Garage (103°): Narrow mount - 141° / Wide mount - 138.8°

So it looks like as your ambient temps. rise and fall you should get a near equal increase/decrease in running temp. It also looks like for a flat bottom light like the Duo considering max cooling surface area vs. max light-head/mount interface area the ambient temp. actually makes a difference on which mount works best. On lights with a recessed mounting area my guess is that max. interface area is the best way to go since any cooling area covered by the extra interface would not be in the air flow any way. Of course this is just my opinion on what the results mean, for the rest of you it's raw data that you can make your own assumptions with.
Mole


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## g3m (Dec 24, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> View attachment 1000685
> 
> 
> Last week I did some thermal tests compairing max case temp on my Duo using both these mounts inside my house (82° ambient temp.) and in my garage (103° ambient temp.). Results were interesting/surprising to me and I thought the case temp. differences between the 21° different environments related to what you guy have been talking about. I ran each mount multiple times indoor and out and here's the averages on the temp. readings I got.
> ...


hi, im from Malaysia and how can i order this from u? postage?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Send me a PM or go to my website linked in my signature on this post. My direct e-maill address is on my site.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Great mod! Here is my Gemini Xera.









Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

That looks good! Did you have to do any additional mods to the adapter to work with the Xera?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

There is a new member in the finned adapter family. I now have adapters to fit the Nitefighter BT70.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/nitefighter-bt70-user-review-979490-31.html#post12131593

Soon to come will be a version for the BT40S.

I really need to update my Web pages with the new versions. Maybe someday I'll get good enough at it that I don't hate messing with them.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Vancbiker said:


> That looks good! Did you have to do any additional mods to the adapter to work with the Xera?


No mods. Just needed a longer allen-head metric bolt as the stocker has a tapered head (w/O-ring) and your mount it thicker.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

Big thanks to Vancbiker received my adapter's three days after ordering them. One is for the BT70 and the other is on my BT40S.

My girlfriend and I rode last night in 107* temps for over an hour and both lights running on turbo for almost an hour. they were warm but not hot like before. Very happy with these mods.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Looks good and am glad to hear that the adapters helped handle the Arizona heat. 

Any issues with the fit on the BT40S? Yours is the "prototype", which was pretty confusing to gather dimensions for. I found out that there is a BT40 which has different base dimensions than a BT40S. In collecting dimensions I was given BT40 numbers as well as BT40S numbers and had a bit of a time sorting out the contradictory info.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Desert Runner said:


> Big thanks to Vancbiker received my adapter's three days after ordering them. One is for the BT70 and the other is on my BT40S.
> 
> My girlfriend and I rode last night in 107* temps for over an hour and both lights running on turbo for almost an hour. they were warm but not hot like before. Very happy with these mods.


It was 111° when I started pedaling in Peoria @ 8pm. and probably similar to temps that you experienced by the time I got to the trail. Rode the west end of Trail 100 and it was just me and the jack-rabbits. I ran 2 BT21's both w/finned mounts but only used Turbo on the trail sections which the lights handled fine w/ no heat problems. These mounts are essential for small high powered lights in our climate.
Mole


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

Vancbiker said:


> Looks good and am glad to hear that the adapters helped handle the Arizona heat.
> 
> Any issues with the fit on the BT40S? Yours is the "prototype", which was pretty confusing to gather dimensions for. I found out that there is a BT40 which has different base dimensions than a BT40S. In collecting dimensions I was given BT40 numbers as well as BT40S numbers and had a bit of a time sorting out the contradictory info.


The Adapter for the BT40S Fit perfectly. Just went out and bought 14mm long fasteners to attach them to your adapter and put them together. The power cord layed perfect in the grove. No binding at all...


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## SlSto (Dec 4, 2013)

Where are people getting their handlebar mounts from both the out front and ordinary? Any recommendations appreciated.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Amazon and gearbest. Just simply gopro handle bar mounts.


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## Desert Runner (Apr 30, 2015)

MRMOLE said:


> It was 111° when I started pedaling in Peoria @ 8pm. and probably similar to temps that you experienced by the time I got to the trail. Rode the west end of Trail 100 and it was just me and the jack-rabbits. I ran 2 BT21's both w/finned mounts but only used Turbo on the trail sections which the lights handled fine w/ no heat problems. These mounts are essential for small high powered lights in our climate.
> Mole


I live in North Phoenix. I17 & Carefree Hwy. It's a little cooler but still Hot.. LOL
We rode the Octillo trail last night on turbo the whole time we were out there. 
and when we finished the six mile ride i was surprise how cool the lights were.
the last mile of that ride is a decent climb.

I wanted to see if I ran turbo the whole time what the difference would be. Normally i run on medium almost that whole ride except the down hill portions. Big difference...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Desert Runner said:


> The Adapter for the BT40S Fit perfectly. Just went out and bought 14mm long fasteners to attach them to your adapter and put them together. The power cord layed perfect in the grove. No binding at all...


Thanks for the feedback!!

I'm going to run a small batch of them this weekend.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

*Nitefighter adapters*

I now have stock on adapters for Nitefighter BT21, BT40S and BT70 models.

Here are pics of a couple of recent custom adapters too.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey what is that first one???? We need that for helmet mounting


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> .....We need that for helmet mounting


That is what the user ordered it for. It is going to be used with a Yinding. It just mailed out so will be a while before I get any feedback on how it works out. I've kicked ideas for this design around quite a bit in the past, but never built it until someone really wanted to try it.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well guess I should have asked when we were doing the bt21 version....lol. But now it exists for the yinding, as long as it mounts up fine, the airflow is going to be even better so should shave a few more degs off case temps.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> That is what the user ordered it for. It is going to be used with a Yinding. It just mailed out so will be a while before I get any feedback on how it works out. I've kicked ideas for this design around quite a bit in the past, but never built it until someone really wanted to try it.


I like it too! Interested to hear how it works out- I was just going to suggest you consider making a slightly longer one and here it is!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I like it too! Interested to hear how it works out- I was just going to suggest you consider making a slightly longer one and here it is!


This adapter, used with your low profile GoPro mount, would probably be pretty sweet.

The person that ordered it is going to fit it to a Bell Super helmet.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

tigris99 said:


> Well guess I should have asked when we were doing the bt21 version....lol.


A BT21 version would be possible.......


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I'm in for a BT21 version! I'll take a Yinding version too.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm interested in a BT21 version too.

-Garry


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> I now have stock on adapters for Nitefighter BT21, BT40S and BT70 models.
> 
> Here are pics of a couple of recent custom adapters too.


Any more reports on the top mount with the fins in the back?
I need a couple of mounts, but am waiting to see if the extended one is working out.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

No word back from the buyer. He is overseas and probably only just getting it this week. I'll ping in the next day or so and see how it's going.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

Nice adapter for the BT 21 but I find it sits too high on the bars.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

If you rotate the bar mount so the tabs are facing forward, then attach the light would that get it low enough to suit your preference?


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

^^ somehow always thought that would interfere w cables so never tried that but it doesn't. Awesome thanks Vancbiker.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

Used mine this past weekend at an 18 hour race. Worked GREAT..so much better than the rubber-band mount that tended to slip down over time..this one stayed just where I wanted it. Bravo!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

funnyjr said:


> ^^ somehow always thought that would interfere w cables so never tried that but it doesn't. Awesome thanks Vancbiker.


Glad it worked out!

You may also find that having the light a bit more forward helps reduce glare when standing up pedaling up a climb.


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## funnyjr (Oct 31, 2009)

slick 
Mounts nicer, lower profile and tad lighter than previous rubber o ring mount.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Here's my all-aluminum low profile mount using a GoPro right angle adapter, some aluminum and 3M dual-lock.
The aluminum is bonded with thermal epoxy, and there's a rivet.
Still waiting for a finned adapter that's en route.
Even without the fins, this should sink some serious heat. Looks good too, and doesn't stick out higher than the top of the helmet.

I am curious if one of the new low profile mounts would be even slicker.





The plate part of the mount fits nicely under the visor. There's also a little velcro wrap around it, even though the Dual Lock is pretty secure.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

That's one of the nicest GoPro setups on a helmet I've seen.

The LoPro adapter is going to push the light quite a bit more forward. I think you'll have to re do your mount location on the helmet to make it work.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> That's one of the nicest GoPro setups on a helmet I've seen.
> 
> The LoPro adapter is going to push the light quite a bit more forward. I think you'll have to re do your mount location on the helmet to make it work.


I can see using the LoPro on the Gopro headbands for running and skiing applications.
We'll see how it works on the helmet. I agree, I may need to move the mount.

There's a pretty good mass and surface area of aluminum in the adapter and mounting plate, which should help with the heat issue.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Since I added these finned heat-sink mounts with the exception of the Yinding (only good up to 100° on high) I've not had one thermal step down all summer in ride temps up to 109° (Phoenix area). Additional added bonus is all the lights change modes easier and more accurately because of the more solid mounting. Its been a good summer. Thanks Vancbiker! - Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

That's a collection of lights I just love to see!!!


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## JediMindTrixR4Kidz (Aug 27, 2015)

I grabbed aluminum mounts for my bt 21 and 70, very nice  Definitely recommended.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Another variation of the finned adapter. This model fits the UniqueFire HD016. Thanks to Garrybunk for the dimensions!


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## DustyTrail (Aug 21, 2015)

Just purchased/ordered an adaptor a couple days ago for my bt40s and tracking says it'll be here tomorrow. 

Honestly couldn't have come at a better time! 

Last night while riding I took a little tumble and this happened :-/


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## roy harley (May 8, 2004)

Dusty, how did the 40 hold up to the tumble. From this side it doesn't look to scratched up. nice


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ive crashed with mine but on gopro mount, the hole housing is aluminum so nothing more than a couple scratches.


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## mastakilla (Sep 3, 2005)

any pics of these set up on handlebars. I only see on in the whole thread. Or is everyone using these mounts mostly for helmets?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No reason to take pics as bars are simple and normal. Buy a gopro handlebar mount and that's it


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Had this in a folder on my desktop.
Mole



mastakilla said:


> any pics of these set up on handlebars. I only see on in the whole thread. Or is everyone using these mounts mostly for helmets?


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

For the first time the other night I mounted one of those GoPro handlebar mounts like Mole shows above and it was a real pain in the butt! Maybe the front of my stem sticks out further than some. The screw for the mount barely had enough room to turn it. My light (my HD-016) was also hitting the stem when I tried to tilt up to get the right angle. I ended up sliding it up the riser part of my bars a little to get enough room to tilt it. I'm either going to switch to the mount that sticks out much further away from the bars or use a 90 degree adapter and mount to my stem. More mount parts on order.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Garry, turn the bar mount around so screw is pointed out towards you grip and turn the gopro mount around the other way so the mount tabs are in the back. Should give you plenty of room. My raceface evolve stem on my 29er isn't small but i have plenty of room.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

mastakilla said:


> any pics of these set up on handlebars. I only see on in the whole thread. Or is everyone using these mounts mostly for helmets?


I've not kept good track, but it seems like ~60% of the time folks are using the GoPro adapters with helmet lights. One reason for that is probably due to the popularity of the Bell Super models of helmets with their "built-in" GoPro mount.

@Garrybunk... The extended mount is better IMO than the short one as it pushes the light forward. Less glare when you are standing or leaning forward while climbing.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Garry, turn the bar mount around so screw is pointed out towards you grip and turn the gopro mount around the other way so the mount tabs are in the back. Should give you plenty of room. My raceface evolve stem on my 29er isn't small but i have plenty of room.


That's actually the way I have mine set up now and agree much easier to work with and more clearance. I think this photo was from when I first got the Vancbiker mount. Thanks for pointing that out though. Happy Thanksgiving!
Mole


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## DustyTrail (Aug 21, 2015)

Here's mine with a bt40s.....

I cut a piece of inner tube and wrapped it around my bar before housing and tightening the go pro mount to the carbon bars and this gives me 100% support. 

Absolutely NO movement whatsoever! 

About to order another one here soon for my helmet light!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> DustyTrail said:
> 
> 
> > Here's mine with a bt40s.....
> ...


Very good call considering you ride in the AZ. desert. What did you decide to get for a helmet light (KD2, Yinding, wait for BT21s)??? Speaking from experience (I live in the Phoenix area and own a Yinding and a BT21) these mounts are essential for the 3 lights I mentioned if you plan to ride summer nights where you live.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

DustyTrail said:


> Here's mine with a bt40s.....


I also have the extended mount like shown in Dusty's picture that has been modified to fit 35mm bars.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I ran a small batch of the "LoPro" finned adapter for Gemini Duo, Yinding and clones. Same price as the other finned adapters, $18.00. Mounts the light ~16mm lower than the regular finned adapter. 

I also have the LoPro adapter undrilled for those users that want to fit it to a different light.

Soon to come will be versions for the SSX2 and BT21.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Nice! That looks like a nice improvement.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Appel said:


> Nice! That looks like a nice improvement.


Possibly. I've only got a couple prototypes out in use. As in most things there are compromises. By getting a lower profile you reduce the chance of catching the light on branches when helmet mounted. The trade off, is that using the low profile adapter makes it harder to access the switch.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

But with the remote add-on mod for the Yinding the issue becomes mute! I'm gonna be picking one up after the crazy Christmas spending is over (also need one for my BT40S).

-Garry


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

Moot not mute.

Awesome adaptors. Part of making these lights no-compromise.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

garrybunk said:


> ...... (also need one for my BT40S).
> 
> -Garry


That's gonna be a tough one. Have to route the cable out to the side maybe since the adapter tabs are where the cable normally would go.


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## rtsideup (Mar 21, 2012)

I want one for a BT21!


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## Big Fil (Nov 5, 2014)

Would be interested in a lop to mount for a BT21 as well. With the button on top seems like a win win.


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## DustyTrail (Aug 21, 2015)

MRMOLE said:


> > Very good call considering you ride in the AZ. desert. What did you decide to get for a helmet light (KD2, Yinding, wait for BT21s)??? Speaking from experience (I live in the Phoenix area and own a Yinding and a BT21) these mounts are essential for the 3 lights I mentioned if you plan to ride summer nights where you live.
> > Mole
> 
> 
> ...


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## rtsideup (Mar 21, 2012)

Really wanting a low-pro mount for a BT-21.
And while I'm wishing; what's the possibility of 31.8, QR, GoPro, bar mount?

"Want in one hand, **** in the other; which fills up quicker?"

Can't hurt to dream.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

A BT21 version is on the "to do" list, but buyer interest in the LoPro adapter concept has been poor so it has taken a backseat to other projects. Not QR, but I've been working a GoPro mount.

http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/new-gopro-mounts-1002310.html

It will soon be available in 25.4, 31,8 versions. I've been slammed with other (non-cycling) machining projects lately so my timelines for new machined bike stuff have to slide some.



rtsideup said:


> Really wanting a low-pro mount for a BT-21.
> And while I'm wishing; what's the possibility of 31.8, QR, GoPro, bar mount?
> 
> "Want in one hand, **** in the other; which fills up quicker?"
> ...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well from my "testing" of lopro mount, guys like mrmole would like them as the head runs a fair bit cooler than it does with the regular mount.

The lopro mounts are the way to go IMHO when it comes to needing the best cooling and getting the light a little lower on the mount.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Don't own a lopro mount yet but have 6 of the regular finned ones. Considering all the hours I spend in 100°+ ride temps each summer they're the best functioning "Bling" I've put on my lights!
Mole


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