# Can you help me make my old 1995 GT RTS 2 more modern and comfortable to ride?



## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I have an essentially stock 1995 GT RTS 2. The bike has the Rock Shox MAG 21. The seals are worn out and I am looking to replace the shock fork and get the geometry more comfortable for riding. The stock geometry has you leaning VERY far forward. I would like to bring the handle bars up more so that I don't hurt my spine riding it. I have owned it since new and now have children who are getting into riding. It has not seen a trail in about 13 years. I have stuck to pavement and the geometry is awful for that. My kids are now getting into light trail riding and still pavement. 
I rode a nephew's TREK last week and it had hydraulic brakes, tall tires and a much more upright riding posture.
I have been out of this game a long time, please point me in the right direction.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

The new bikes are awesome, the old bikes are rad. Take your pick, if you can't get the old ride to handle the new terrain you might need a 2nd bike. More bikes is a good thing. I suggest asking some local riders what they prefer where you ride

That being said I was in a similar position to you a few years ago. Had to upgrade the old Kona Sex One to be a trail rider again. Went with a shorter stem, riser bars, Marzocchi 4" travel fork, upgraded rear shock (rp23) and a front disc brake. It rocked the trails and I cracked the rear triangle. Spent enough money and time to buy a much newer used bike that would have been more terrain appropriate.


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## mik_git (Feb 4, 2004)

I'd agree, get a shorter and higher rise stem, and some riser bars. If it still has canti brake, go for some V-brakes (although depending on the shifter/brakes that may be an issue). also look for a recent new 80mm fork say from around...well newer than a Mag21 anyway (that take v brakes), getting new ones is getting nearly impossible, but get one with a lockout, it's handy on pavement.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

The bike has LX cantilever brakes. Do you guys have a specific fork that you would recommend. I would like something that is relatively maintenance free. I don't want something like the MAG 21 that needs complicated rebuilds and air and oil adjustments. Thanks.



mik_git said:


> I'd agree, get a shorter and higher rise stem, and some riser bars. If it still has canti brake, go for some V-brakes (although depending on the shifter/brakes that may be an issue). also look for a recent new 80mm fork say from around...well newer than a Mag21 anyway (that take v brakes), getting new ones is getting nearly impossible, but get one with a lockout, it's handy on pavement.


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## mik_git (Feb 4, 2004)

It all depends...I have a 2012 Manitou R7 which works pretty well and a 2004 Rockshox Duke that is also pretty good...never serviced it ever (OK I should, but never did), both have canti-V studs and a lockout (for the pavement). But there are many others... getting new is starting to get hard, but should be able to find decent 2nd hand one on ebay and the like. Just do a bit of researching on forks from 2000-2010, see what you like and what sort of budget you have.

LX cantir will work fine, but any later model fork may not want to cooperate (the cable stop may not exist), so if your brake levers and shifters are separate items then you can easily swap to V's, but if they are a combo setup, running V='s may be harder.


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## Guest (Jun 1, 2015)

clydesdale6 said:


> The bike has LX cantilever brakes. Do you guys have a specific fork that you would recommend. I would like something that is relatively maintenance free. I don't want something like the MAG 21 that needs complicated rebuilds and air and oil adjustments. Thanks.


 All forks will need some adjustment/oil/lube. The ones with air need air tweaks and I've always been too heavy for stock springs. I have an older (2002) Duke Race that's been virtually bomb proof. To date, I've only replace the oil once and the slider lube twice. It holds air all summer long and it should fit your frame. I see these used on Craigslist for under $100 every once and a while, with a professional rebuild (if it needed one) you could be solid for less than $250. Canti brakes use the same posts, so any fork that uses cantis will work.


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## 70sSanO (Nov 20, 2013)

If I were you I would take a look at the rear pivot bushings. I don't ride full suspension, but my understanding is that RTS bushings are not easy to find. You don't want to track down a new fork and rear shock and then find that the bushing are shot.

If you are going full suspension, I think I'd opt for a newer bike.

John


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

I've always had great luck with the older Marzocchi's. Z2's and Z1's are the best if you're looking to keep your budget low and limit the maintenance. Seals are readily available the forks were built to last. I would probably stay with 100mm or less of travel.


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

Totally agree with Eschew..... those are my go to forks. Virtually indestructible....


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It's a pretty old bike, with 20 year old suspension. Although cool, I'd agree with a new bike. Rebuild this one for fun with the kids as a learning experience, but accept the fact that a new bike is the correct answer for future serious trail riding.

If you just want to have fun on smoother trails, more air in the fork and a riser handlebar. You can get a 2" riser bar for under $20.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

also vote for a new bike that's all rigid if all you're going to do is pavement riding. Good luck!


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

You have me a little worried about those bushings. I remember that there is a little play somewhere in the rear. I will take a peek. Do you know where these bushings are?
As far as getting a new bike. I can't justify it. I simply don't ride enough. Plus, the RTS would take a thrashing from me and keep coming back for more, so it can certainly hold up to me 20 years later, especially if I have a better fork. The current MAG 21 won't hold air. The fork simply collapses with the slightest weight over the front end. 
I am looking for an inexpensive fork that does not need the complex rebuild of a mag 21 and a more comfortable handle bar.



70sSanO said:


> If I were you I would take a look at the rear pivot bushings. I don't ride full suspension, but my understanding is that RTS bushings are not easy to find. You don't want to track down a new fork and rear shock and then find that the bushing are shot.
> 
> If you are going full suspension, I think I'd opt for a newer bike.
> 
> John


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

Weren't some of the old forks simple elastomers? Did they make any good forks like this or do I have to mess with air and oil seals? The problem with the MAG 21 is that it won't hold air. So, it likely needs new seals and I don't think they can be had. I thought some of the old Judy shocks were cartridges of some sort and you did not have to mess with seals.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

clydesdale6 said:


> Weren't some of the old forks simple elastomers?


Yes.



clydesdale6 said:


> Did they make any good forks like this or do I have to mess with air and oil seals?


They did, and they were good in their day. But now those elastomers have all crumbled to dust or melted to treacle.

Don't be afraid of air/oil forks. They have come a long way since the rudimentary air/oil fork that was the Mag21, as awesome as it was in its day.

A bit heavier, but a coil/oil fork such as the aforementioned Marzocchi options are simple, and bombproof. Mucking about with oil weights can help tune the damping as well.



clydesdale6 said:


> The problem with the MAG 21 is that it won't hold air. So, it likely needs new seals and I don't think they can be had. I thought some of the old Judy shocks were cartridges of some sort and you did not have to mess with seals.


Unless you can track down new old stock cartridges, you're likely to have the same problem hunting down seals and bits to keep them fresh.

Old forks are a lucky dip. You can get low mileage ones that were cellared properly, or you can get something that just needs a little bit of fluid and an o-ring, or you can get a piece of junk that is good for a paperweight.



clydesdale6 said:


> Do you know where these bushings are?


In each pivot point. They are the bit that wears over time as the pivot moves. Some bikes use bearings, others use bushings.

Grumps


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

manual for the fork. looks like a pain. And someone's homemade DIY air cartridge mods. Looks easier. You can find rockshox XC32 coil forks with V-brake mounts for maybe $180. You can also find pretty cheap suntour XCR forks with v-brake posts on ebay for about $100. Nothing great, but they'll work.
http://www.mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/Manuals/mag21.pdf
FAQLoad - Rockshox Mag 21 Solo Air Modification

However, if the rear triangle bushings are bad, the rigid bike sounds like it'd be the best and cheapest bet. You can get an older frameset, or a new chromoly frame and fork for under $150. Take a beating and last forever.


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## phattruth (Apr 22, 2012)

I'd sell the RTS2 for $100 and buy a newer used bike. I do a fair bit of vintage mtb restoration and that would be a no brainer for me. It'd cost you less in time and money to do that. Buy a hardtail with disc brakes and a good air sprung fork. The new suspension is so far above and beyond better than the old junk. Especially with adjusting the fork psi to your body weight. If you can't sell the RTS2, hang it on the wall. Old bikes make great garage art.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I found a bike shop that has a used black rock shox judy xc for $30. Is this a good fork for this bike? He also had a rock shox judy TT. 

Another bike shop wanted to sell me an RST Cappa installed for $150. What do you think?


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## Chadio (Jun 26, 2015)

Put a new XC28 and v-brake on the front end. It will make you fall in love with the bike, and riding, all over again. Coil = never loses air pressure because it isn't needed. Dial adjust preload.

The Mag 21 (own two of them) is a piss poor fork, period. I've ridden them new, worn out, broken-in, rebuilt - they just peg the suck meter. I can't wait to replace the one on my Zaskar.

Trust me - XC28 / v-brake (you'll need the "Travel Agent" on the V) You likely have the integrated brake / shifters, no need to replace. This is the way to go.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

To put the v-brake on, will I need to change my LX brake levers or such? Is the xc28 much better than the judy xc?

I see the xc28 is on amazon for $103. Is that the one to get?


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## Chadio (Jun 26, 2015)

You don't need to change your cantilever - specific brake lever if you get the Travel Agent.

Problem Solvers

It takes the cantilever leverage / travel and adapts it to a v-brake, and they work brilliantly.

Let me double check the specs on my xc28, be right back....


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## Chadio (Jun 26, 2015)

Ok, my new XC28 says: 

100 mm travel, med . coil, TK mag, 26"

I just had one put on my mid-90's GT Avalanche, to replace the Mag 21 (also sagging due to worn seals, would no longer hold air). I was more than pleased with the result of the feel of the fork, and the power of the v brake.

Plus, the dial - adjust preload is so much more convenient than making air-pressure adjustments...


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I looked on the rock shox website and it seems like the rock shox xc30 TK is the model now available. Does anybody have a comment on this fork? The price is about $150. Any other suggestions? Thanks.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The difference between the XC28, XC30 and XC32 is basically the diameter of the stanchions. The XC28 is equivalent to the old dart and the XC32 is the base level Tora. the XC30 falls in between. They have very similar design in regards to the hydraulic systems. You just get a slightly better one with the XC32 over the XC28. The larger stanchion diameter gives more room to put better hydraulics. Not much better, but a little bit better.

The XC30 is an acceptable fork, and $150 seems on par for it's value. I'm not going to say it's a great fork, but for the price, it's what you should expect. If you absolutely need V-brake studs, it's also about as good as you're going to get.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I have just a couple of quick questions left.

1. Are there any other popular fork brands and or models in the $150 zone that I should look at?

2. What else will I need to do the install? I see that on amazon most people buy the fork, as star nut, and some spacers. What will be needed? 

Thanks.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

1. In the $150 zone that are quality forks, no. However, you'll have a hard time finding quality forks with v-brake studs. If you're looking at disc brake, you can get some during the October/November end of model year sort of sales for about $200. Rockshox and Manitou normally have something. During the rest of the year, look at about $250 at least for a decent fork. In the $150 zone, you might find a raidon or in the $120 zone a suntour XCR or an RST air-cartridge fork. 

2. In order to do a fork swap yourself, you need to be able to swap the bearing race or buy a new headset. To swap it, you'll need a couple small screw drivers, maybe an exacto knife, a rubber mallet, and patience. Gently pry the race off the old fork. I find a vise and some wood blocks to be very helpful. To put it on the new fork, assuming it's 1 1/8" diameter, you can use a 1 1/4" PVC pipe to hammer the old race onto the new fork. Support the fork under the crown with a 2x6. Just sitting the fork on the ground and hammering on it will get you nowhere. Most new forks will come with a star nut, but not installed. Used forks will usually come with one in it. either way, not difficult to put in. Watch some youtube videos. I had best luck with the Phillips head screwdriver and rubber hammer method. If you need to cut the steer tube to a shorter length, might be worth taking it to a bike shop once you figure out the height you want. I've seen some people with really bad hacksaw skills go after a steer tube and completely mess it up. I have seen some people cut one with a plumbing pipe cutter. Just have to be slow with it and don't tighten the cutting wheel too much at one time. The number of new spacers depend on how much steer tube you cut off.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

Ok. So it looks like then I have narrowed this down to 3 forks.

Used 2002 rock shox xc from bike shop for $30
New rock shox xc28 - Amazon or ebay for $105
New rock shox xc30 - Amazon or Ebay for $150

I am leaning toward the to new shox as I hope the technology has improved since 2002. I would also think parts would be available for longer. 

Which Fork makes the best sense? Is the xc30 better enough to justify the additional $45? 

I plan to just swap the stock canteliever brakes over to the new fork.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just make sure the rockshox XC28 is the XC28 Turnkey (the one with the blue hydraulic lockout lever) and not the base XC28 (no dampening or hydraulics). Amazon will try to trick you sometimes by showing the XC28 TK picture, but shipping the base model. The XC30 only comes in a hydraulic lockout version.

Tell us more about the 2002. If it's been rebuilt, doesn't feel loose, and it's not just a piece of junk that was sitting in a corner, for $30, it might be worth it. Technology has changed a lot since 2002, I'm just not sure how much of that good quality has really made it's way to the XC series.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I don't know the history of the 2002. THe bike shop had two forks in the parts pile that would work for my bike. The xc felt like the better or the two.

As long as I make sure the 28 has the lock out, would you lean that way as the best bang for the buck? 

I am a little leary of the used 2002. It is cheap, but 105 bucks for the 28 isn't bad either. Plus then I know it works.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I started to order a rock shox xc28 TK Mg. But, all the ones that I see have a STEEL steerer. I see that you can get an aluminum as an option, but I have not come across one yet on either Amazon or Ebay. Any thoughts on the steel vs aluminum. Do most people just get the steel? Also, what is the difference between the XC28 TK Mg and the regular xc28 TK? What is the Mg? It appears both have magnesium lowers so I do not know what the Mg is. Any thoughts? Thanks.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

go with the steel steer tube. It's strong. the Mg version has some additional parts made of magnesium alloy vs straight aluminum alloy. It's stronger so they can machine it a litle different and has some weight savings. I'd go with the Mg version if cost is comparable. Neither one is light weight though.

If your username is a description of your rider weight/size, I'd seriously consider the XC30 if the price difference is small. that extra 2mm diameter makes a difference in stiffness for people over 200lbs.

Playing devils advocate because the fork is shot anyway. Have you torn your existing fork completely apart and seen what it would take to just gut it and throw some springs into it?


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Not to toss a turd in the punch bowl but I'd go with an older machined brace Marzocchi z1. Awesome sauce. And it restrains it's resell value better potentially.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

I ended up with a xc 28 for $130 installed with new v brakes. The v-brake has a light feel with my LX brake lever, but it functions ok. I am happy with the purchase. Thanks for your help.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Did yo get the XC28 or the XC28 TK? Hopefully the TK version.

when you say "a light feel", what do you mean? Is it not braking well, or does the lever pull seem really long? What brakes did you get, and what pads?


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

clydesdale6 said:


> I ended up with a xc 28 for $130 installed with new v brakes. The v-brake has a light feel with my LX brake lever, but it functions ok. I am happy with the purchase. Thanks for your help.


You really need direct pull (v brake) levers. Using your original cantilever levers (I'm assuming) will give you that spongy feel. They have different cable pull and won't work as intended. They don't cost much and you've already spent that much money to convert it to v brakes, you ought to do it right or not at all - especially if your alias is accurate.

Here's some geeky info regarding cantilever brakes. The Geometry of Cantilever Brakes


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## Guest (Aug 11, 2015)

clydesdale6 said:


> I ended up with a xc 28 for $130 installed with new v brakes. The v-brake has a light feel with my LX brake lever, but it functions ok. I am happy with the purchase. Thanks for your help.


 You can install a problem solvers travel agent to correct the geometry issue Problem Solvers


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## Chadio (Jun 26, 2015)

toob - how to install a problem solvers travel agent

This is exactly what he needs and this shows exactly how to install it. No need to replace the lever.

The reason that the brake 'feels light' is because a lever that is designed for canti's doesn't have the proper ratio of travel / leverage for a v-brake. This cool little pulley was specifically designed to accommodate that exact thing. Watch the video, it should illuminate better than my ramblings..

I know it works, been there, done that, bought the t-shirt


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## Guest (Aug 11, 2015)

Problem Solvers You get the T-Shirt here.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

Thanks guys. I will look into the problem solvers. The brakes are some cheap Tektro brakes. They installer charged me $15 installed for the brakes. So, they can't be too good. I bought the xc28 with lock out.


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## clydesdale6 (Jun 1, 2015)

Where do I buy the problem solvers? I looked on the site, but I can't find a dealer locally. Also, which model number travel agent do I need? I have Shimano LX brake levers.


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