# steerer tube headset race shim



## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

Ok..hows that for a name.

I have had this issues 3x now....

There seems to be a shim under the lower bearing race(crown race)...to make the tube(steerer) the correct diameter to press the race onto (instead of a taper to a larger diameter in the general area.

two were 1" and one was a 1 1/4" headtubes.

Is there a proper name for this item and....where can I get some...I've got 2 forks that really need them and one more that would be nice to have.

Please someone help....my entire build has been on hold now for awhile becasue of this thing.

TIA


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

wow...94 views and everybody is clueless? whats up?
this is something that I've seen 3 times, did a ton of searches and found nothing....NOBODY knows what these are?


Its for a KLIEN FAT CHANCE Ti John Tomac bike.....maybe that will work?


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## Xlr8n (Apr 29, 2010)

So your fork race isn't seating tightly on the steerer tube? 
A single wrap of aluminum tape will ususally fill the gap. Ideally you want the tape or shim between the race and steerer tube, not under the race as you are describing as it could make the race not square to the cup and bearings.


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

Do you have a picture of what you are talking about? I'm not positive that I know what you mean.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

sorry..ill get a pic....it isnt just under it, its actaully a cylindrical part, similar to the race. Its pressed onto the steerer tube before the race to achieve the correct diameter for the race to press onto. Its because the steerer tube is not the correct diameter...they do it to save $ on the tube manufacturing...way easir to make that way...but when the race is well worn, it welds itself to this bushing.
I have done the tin foil(pop cans work better actually) thing in the past, but it doesnt allow for proper tightening of the headset (or it comes loose real quick as the aluminum is too soft). I would use some stainlesssteel shimstock if it comes down to it, but my bikes are rather expensinve and I would like to ride them so doing it right is my first priority.
Thanks.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

syklystt said:


> wow...94 views and everybody is clueless? whats up?
> this is something that I've seen 3 times, did a ton of searches and found nothing....NOBODY knows what these are?
> 
> Its for a KLIEN FAT CHANCE Ti John Tomac bike.....maybe that will work?


Tone down the attitude. Sheesh.


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## mainlyfats (Oct 1, 2005)

You sure it's not so that suspension fork caps don't ding the downtube in a crash?

Find a machinist, give them the dimensions.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

thanks, mainlyfats...it is a part that is made for this reason, but maybe by the lack of responses and lack of info from searches that they were just used by manufactureres and not sold as aftermarket items?
I actuall have talked to a friend already about making some but figured that I'd rather try this way first. I need 3 of them and its gonna get pricey for some 1 offs.
The tolerances on thse have to be tight for a press fit so its not just a simple part. to crank out.
Thanks again.


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

Are you looking for one of these?

STEEL UNICROWN OVERSIZED RACE RING :: SMALL PARTS :: BRAZON/SMALL PARTS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.

BikeLugs.com

Fork Crown Race Ring Unicrown Fork 27.0mm 1" steerer - Bikewagon


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## mainlyfats (Oct 1, 2005)

Check out Ti-cycles (down the page a bit and spendy): Ti Cycles :: Hand Made in Portland, Oregon USA

Eighth-Inch makes one in 20mm that they state is not for off-roading: Eighth Inch Headtube Extenders


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

Ohhhhh yeah...thats it....freekin "RACE RING".....terminology always makes a differance on searches.
THANKS!!!!


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

Maybe next time you'll give it a few days before calling everybody out as elitist.


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

girlonbike said:


> Maybe next time you'll give it a few days before calling everybody out as elitist.


I get so FCUKING ANGRY when people don't answer poorly described problem in under 24 hours. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRG!!!!

:madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman::madman:


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Must be winter. 

Everyone is getting a might bit churlish as of late. 

OP, yes, more accurate descriptions or, even better, a pic, makes a huge difference. 

Maybe a language barrier too (if so, at a minimum, patience and a mellow attitude are your friends), but I could barely figure out what it was you were after based on your original post.


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## mainlyfats (Oct 1, 2005)

My bad - looks like you've found what you're after.


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## Xlr8n (Apr 29, 2010)

syklystt said:


> sorry..ill get a pic....it isnt just under it, its actaully a cylindrical part, similar to the race. Its pressed onto the steerer tube before the race to achieve the correct diameter for the race to press onto. Its because the steerer tube is not the correct diameter...they do it to save $ on the tube manufacturing...way easir to make that way...but when the race is well worn, it welds itself to this bushing.
> I have done the tin foil(pop cans work better actually) thing in the past, but it doesnt allow for proper tightening of the headset (or it comes loose real quick as the aluminum is too soft). I would use some stainlesssteel shimstock if it comes down to it, but my bikes are rather expensinve and I would like to ride them so doing it right is my first priority.
> Thanks.


fwiw, a single layer of aluminum tape works like a champ to fit a loose race and will outlast the headset components even under brutally hard use. Plus it doesn't add any height the fork crown like the spacers shown in the links above do.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

Understood.....
But if u read my se ond post....almost 100 hits and nothing...thats why i said wtf.....sorry for that if i was being a dk....

I have tried the shim method but had the headset come loose....and theres now way a shim can compare to a properly manufacture part with tolerances for a press fit on both id ans od.....in a pinch or on a cheap or seldom used bike maybe.....but i need to be very sure of my equipment as my life may depend on it....that and i knew they were for sale somewhere.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

Sorry.....no meds today


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

syklystt said:


> Understood.....
> But if u read my se ond post....almost 100 hits and nothing...thats why i said wtf.....sorry for that if i was being a dk....


I get that but it's better that people with real knowledge respond rather than the first people that see the thread. No advice is better than bad advice when discussing bike parts and repair, imho. Holy smokes, some of the things I've seen people recommend to fix _other peoples'_ bikes. Downright dangerous.

Sorry about your meds! Cheers to your good health.


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

You are aware that there are two different crown race sizes for 1" forks right?


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## datasurfer (Nov 24, 2006)

Hey Retro Dude or any of you more knowledgable folks:

Is this fork crown race ring the small part used on Bontrager Composite and Tange Switchblade fork steertubes?


Retro Dude said:


> Are you looking for one of these?
> 
> STEEL UNICROWN OVERSIZED RACE RING :: SMALL PARTS :: BRAZON/SMALL PARTS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
> 
> ...


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## Retro Dude (Jun 7, 2010)

Yes it is, that's why I knew what you were looking for. Similar part used on original Manitou forks.

I had a guy who does machining for my work make me one for a Switchblde I had.


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

I had that same problem, DS. I ended up with one that Pace made and as to whether it worked or not, Rumpfy's buddy ended up with my Bonty composite fork so maybe he could chime in. I think you had to cut it to get it properly seated.


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## syklystt (Mar 31, 2010)

Shayne said:


> You are aware that there are two different crown race sizes for 1" forks right?


yes, thanks...but my issue arises from the parts that Im taking apart...they have these things installed and they dont want to seperate from the race.

I do appreciate the replys...heres some pics of the race I have (although the question has been asnwered..thanks to all).


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## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

The right size socket and a hammer. Or reassemble it and use a park crp-1, that works 8 out of 10 times to get the race off the cra


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

syklystt said:


> I have done the tin foil(pop cans work better actually) thing in the past, but it doesnt allow for proper tightening of the headset (or it comes loose real quick as the aluminum is too soft). I would use some stainlesssteel shimstock if it comes to that...


In the past I have used "valve adjustment gauges" with great result, they are made of high end steel so they will not deform, plus they come in a variety of sizes so you get the perfect fit every time..


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## under the radar (Sep 15, 2010)

yay, this thread...and the links to the parts suppliers has allowed me to continue my manitou 1 project.


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