# ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light



## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

*ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light prototype sample*

*BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS*
ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light

Hi, I had to share this with you as soon as I got it. As you would see from the photos, this is not a finished product send for evaluation as first thought unless someone has robbed some of the bits from it! :???: This to me looks like a prototype under development. I take it, they just wanted to test the water first and get someone's opinion on their product? I will ask more questions to the manufacturer, but as you know, for the Chinese, this is party time. Year of the Monkey I believe So will have to wait until they come back to work. The XP3 came with a helmet mount and a remote switch. The switch itself looks like a job in progress as the lead appear to be the type often found on speakers, but the helmet mount does look like a finished article minus the straps.
Here some photos taken with my mobile phone, so quality is not great, but I am sure they will do for the moment.
Here are some pictures
*BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS*








*BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS*







*BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS*


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I like it, it is programmable, :thumbsup: double click from any of the 3 modes will take you in program mode, this time indicated by the battery light flashing constantly and not by the main LEDs flashing, it does also default to a 10% output, then a single click will cycle to the next level , once you have reached your 100% a further click will take you back to 10% and then 20% etc. I actually prefer this to the way their programming was done on the Wiz20. To come out of programmable modes, double click. Factory reset is by a long press from off, did not count but 5/6 second, then you get the usual 10 multi flashes to let you know, the light is back to factory settings.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Looks pretty good. 

I think it probably needs more/deeper heat sink fins similar to the Glowworm XS. There's a whole lot of flat area on the top. Most people wanted a triple that is super bright, so that means high current and lots wasted heat energy that needs to scrubbed off. 

Is that a a removable remote? That would be awesome. 

I'm all for a programmable driver, but I double click all the time from low to high so wouldn't that put me in the programming menu?

Can you do a size comparison next to a Yinding or Solarstorm X3, it looks pretty small?


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hi Varider just about to switch off , when I saw your post, yes the remote is removable so you don't have to use it, i like the choice of using it or not. Don't know about the heat yet, but I would thing this is going to get pretty hot quickly, but will have to see. Regarding the program, if you did click to quickly from low to medium to high, this would happen! I did approach that subject in another thread, as like you I really use only two modes high or low, the 3rd one get in the way for me, but from what I heard a lot of the riders do prefer 3 modes. I suppose it does depends on your ridding! I supposed we should ask Ituo , if this could be done: to have a light which is pre programmable ie with 2 programmable or 3 programmable modes, so for people like us, we would only need a single click to cycle between the low and high?


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I like having three modes, perhaps even four for super bright light. It's just that I double click a lot, so I would hate to get stuck in programming mode.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

AWESOME, 3 emitter head finally. Helmet gorpro style mount, removable remote, the same driver UI as the wiz20!!!! Nice to see Ituo has got it coming together nicely, needs a couple changes from what I see though:

FIRST HOOK IT UP and tell us what the voltage/amps draw from a fully charged pack is (so I can get a rough estimate on lumens)

I agree with varider on the fins,basically easy remedy is move the flat area with the Ituo emblem to the BACK of the light, and turn that area on top of the head into fins matching the rest of the case top and sides. Surface area is EVERYTHING when its a small light and going for high output. 

Obviously I dont have it in hand to run my tests on (sphere, wind tunnel, and riding of course) but simply doing that would allow the light to operate at higher output with decent airflow.

Curious to know what they have planned for the battery connector. Guess Ill know soon enough.

Skyraider, would help to clarify that what you have is the prototype test sample. Might scare people away seeing those pics of an unfinished light


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

varider said:


> I like having three modes, perhaps even four for super bright light. It's just that I double click a lot, so I would hate to get stuck in programming mode.


Yep, I have the same problem with the programmable Gloworm X2. If you go from low to high too fast ( double clicking ) you go into "program mode". Not the thing you want to happen when you're about to tackle a steep technical trail. As long as you don't switch modes too fast it's not a problem but it's a PITA when you first do it and don't know what's going on.

I would prefer something like a " double press then immediately press and hold three seconds" to enter program mode. The lamp could then flash three times to indicate program mode. I think that would eliminate most of the problem.

I agree with SkyR, having a choice of two or three modes is a nice option. I like three modes for general riding but for "race" purposes a two mode is more expedient.

Other comments; I was kind of hoping it would be using a "wireless remote" "Wired" is fine for the bars though. Do the optics look like you can switch them out ( if desired )? I'm with the others, better heat management should be a priority.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I can tell just by the pics it uses our standard "leddna" optics with the white holders, same as wiz20.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hi , Does anyone know how to change the thread name ie to change it to 
ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light prototype sample

As you have seen from the photos, this is a unfinished prototype, very brave of ITUO to send this! :shocked:
This was tried at home on Monday night, with a fluxient battery, taken to work on Tuesday for my commuter ride back home, unfortunately one of the soldered joint on the power lead came apart, luckily This was spotted before connecting the battery. This is not surprising as the main lead came at a weird angle and was dangling loose as this is not even a completed prototype as all the inside are open. Got an old soldering iron and managed after half an hour to re-solder the lead. (Sorry guys but this was may first try on something that small, Wanted to be able to test it outside, after making a kind of backing with black electrician tape on the inside of the back plate, I packed the hole with silicone RTV to give some rigidity and water proofing to that power wire. Result, working fine and I was able to go on a nearby farm track to take some photos . Yes you can change the optics and use the Leddna types.

Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200 
FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200
FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3
THIS TIME BOTH ON MEDIUM


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200
FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3
Both batteries were not fully charged and I tried to have both light in an horizontal position, I kind of wonder seen the photos if the XP3 way have been pointing a little towards the ground as there is a hell of a lot of light on that pass!!!
THIS TIME BOTH ON HIGH


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> FIRST HOOK IT UP and tell us what the voltage/amps draw from a fully charged pack is (so I can get a rough estimate on lumens)


Tigris, sorry to sound dumb, but I do have cheap multi meter with amps reading, can you advise how to rig this up, so that I can check the draw! I supposed the best way would be to make an adapter to go between the battery and the light plugs? As the back now is sealed up with silicone! :madman:


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Will get my DIY sphere this weekend and will get some lux figures, will also borrow a laser type temperature gun to see what the heat transfer is like , here is a better view of the fins, still not very deep!







Electronics is not my strong point as I have never mod any lights, but this is how I see it, the back of the PCB is glued with thermal paste to the body of the lamp with only a small hole for the wires to go through the dividing wall to the reach a rear chamber where the circuit board is located. *PLEASE REMEMBER THIS IS JUST A PROTOTYPE SAMPLE * 
I am still very surprised as why they send me a prototype at such an early stage, can't speak to them as they are on holiday, I supposed they wanted to know what the beam was like for riding ? I never used an in line triple, just quads (in a rectangle configuration) but so far, I like the wide beam on my short ride to the farm. I will play with some optics later on as well .


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements: 
Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com

-Garry


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## huckleberry hound (Feb 27, 2015)

I was going to say that it does look like the XP3 is pointed down because of the huge hot spot about 10-15 feet in front of the bike, but you already noticed. I can only imagine how much that baby will light things up if pointed up a little bit. It looks like this is going to be another winner.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

huckleberry hound said:


> I was going to say that *it does look like the XP3 is pointed down because of the huge hot spot about 10-15 feet in front of the bike, *but you already noticed. I can only imagine how much that baby will light things up if pointed up a little bit. It looks like this is going to be another winner.


I was going to say the same thing. It definitely is pointed down too much. Way too much light in front of the bike.

So far though I like what I'm seeing. I can only imagine how nice this lamp might light up the distance with some tighter spot optics.

@SkyR, It sure would be nice if you could compare the Wiz product(s) emitter tints to some of the cheaper Chinese made lamps with neutral white emitters. Of course if you don't own any I understand.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Cat, if he doesnt I can (since I have wiz20, same emitters). The optics will play a huge part though as stock yinding optics for instance make the light more yellow than the "LEDDNA" type optics used by Ituo


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Cat, if he doesnt I can (since I have wiz20, same emitters). The optics will play a huge part though as stock yinding optics for instance make the light more yellow than the "LEDDNA" type optics used by Ituo


If not raining, will try to take more beam shots after work


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I think this triple makes for a nice light to mix different optics - two floody, one throwy, two throwy, one floody, etc. . . I would like to hear about the current draw.

-Garry


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I have fitted my 2015 Yinding to my bike and the XP3, will go out after work and take the same photos again, will try to get both lights level this time.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Taken more photos this evening with the yinding from gearbest bought in january 2015 and the ITUO XP3, i was very careful that both lights were set at the same angle . I have got more photos that i will try to post Tomorrow night, both light on high, yinding first.







yinding








ituo xp3







The Yinding optic are different looking to the XP3 which I think are the same ones that are used in their X20


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

That looks pretty impressive. Nice even beam and very bright. I've been happy with the Yinding, but I'm looking for a light that's brighter. 

Is there any chance you can take a picture in slightly different spot? It seems like there is hump or a curve at the end of the hedge, making it hard to tell how far the light throws beyond that. That's going to be big deal for a lot of people. How far is it to the end of hedge? It looks to be about 20 yards. If anything this particular location might undersell the light.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

varider said:


> That looks pretty impressive. Nice even beam and very bright. I've been happy with the Yinding, but I'm looking for a light that's brighter.
> 
> Is there any chance you can take a picture in slightly different spot? It seems like there is hump or a curve at the end of the hedge, making it hard to tell how far the light throws beyond that. That's going to be big deal for a lot of people. How far is it to the end of hedge? It looks to be about 20 yards. If anything this particular location might undersell the light.


Will do, but not sure when, stormy weather on it way today and looking grim this weekend, I have a photo taken in day time on some of my older reviews, I will dig it out and post it. The reflective item is about 25 yards single tree on the right side in the background about 50 yards, the hump in the distance probably ,250 yards or more, it is part of a field.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Photos taken in day time a few years ago, I have not been able yet to take some photos ina different place but I will do


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Wow, that's completely different than what I was picturing in my mind. I thought it was some sort of double track in the woods that went over a small hump/curve and then went by a fence. But the fence is actually a hill. That looks pretty far out there. How far would you estimate to the top of the hill?


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hi Varider, yes that hill is a long way away,plus the fact that my measurement given in yards are not very accurate, I use the old military method I know that one of my long step is a meter length, checked a very long time ago and rechecked today, so we are really talking 50 meter (a little more than 50 yards) to that wire fence and single tree on the right. The brow of that hill is probably another 250 yards at the least and *probably a lot more*. It is difficult to find a place not too far from home and kind of remote enough that you don't get disturbed by people wondering what the hell you are doing. That night I also had my helmet cam on, so once I have found time to process about 30mn plus of filming, I will post this.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

""Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com""




Thanks Garry, I have just orded some, will be able to check the draw thanks to your advice:thumbsup: Nice one


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Skyraider59 said:


> ..*It is difficult to find a place not too far from home and kind of remote enough that you don't get disturbed by people wondering what the hell you are doing.* That night I also had my helmet cam on, so once I have found time to process about 30mn plus of filming, I will post this.


Believe me I know exactly what you are talking about. Even harder for me because I can't find a place secluded enough not to attract attention. Not to mention that the local police get very curious when they start seeing someone shining a light around in a secluded dark area.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Finally found some time to put a video together with some filming I did at my last photoshoot, you will see the ITUO XP3 prototype , the YINDING YD and the Gloworm X2 in action.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Cat-man-do said:


> Believe me I know exactly what you are talking about. Even harder for me because I can't find a place secluded enough not to attract attention. Not to mention that the local police get very curious when they start seeing someone shining a light around in a secluded dark area.


 Yes I know, on the left of the pass there is a field with horses and an house not that far, also get dog walkers and occasional traffic on the tarmac road leading to another farm, so I try to do this as quick as I can , I have just posted the head cam filming that I took while taking the photos.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice video Skyraider. Clearly yinding is the dimmest light of the three. Both the Glowworm and the triple ITUO are significantly brighter than the Yinding. It looks like the triple Ituo is a little brighter than the Glowworm X2 and has much more side spill (which I like). Is that your take as well? Were you using stock optics on the Glowworm and the ITUO? Just out of curiosity, which action cam are you using?

With the glowworm mounted on the helmet, it probably makes the light look better/brighter than if it were mounted on the bar. I wonder how the triple Ituo stack up against the Glowworm XS.

The Ituo seems to be pretty nice light. The removable remote, plus a button on the case itself is something that the Glowworms don't have. Plus the ability to use the ubiquitous gopro mounts which can be had for cheap. The $45 for the Glowworm quick release mount is a bit rich for my blood.

The big question is the price of the light head only option compared to the price of the refurbished Glowworms. Decisions decisions. Have they given you an idea of a price range? Maybe that's not a fair comparison. I think of Glowworm as high-end or at least middle-to-high end. I think of Ituo of going for the low-to-middle price range but maybe they are more eager to enter the premium market.

They are certainly hitting most of the wish list from the custom design thread.



varider said:


> ...
> 
> At the bare minimum we should go for a very bright triple with lots of heatsinking.
> 
> ...


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Can't imagine what the xs brings. But this light is peaking my interest. like the top button and option of remote is a huge plus. Any estimation on output? Pricing?


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Headcam is a SONY HDR-AS200V, really like it, but do come with very little accessories, which are very expensive to buy for what they are. XP3 is very bright and due to the width of the beam, I do find it very good as a bar light.I have not tried it on my helmet yet. Like you I think that having a a body switch plus a removable remote switch is a brilliant idea. Last year I purchased the Yinding as a lot of riders are praising it, but I was very disappointed with it output, I think my old Solarstorm X2 is better. I really like the Gloworm X2 has an helmet light, the tint is cooler than the XP3, is fairly tight and I feel like having a search light on my lid, you just need to get the directional adjustment right for it to work at its best. The only thing I dont like about the Gloworm x2 is the side bracket with the GoPro quick release, all a little to fragile for my liking and would much prefer a GoPro mount.
This turn up on my door step without much warning and just as they were braking up for their holiday. They should be back to work shortly, so will be able to talk to my contact to try to find a little more.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Just some quick comments; The ITUO XP3 seems to have been supplied with fairly wide optics. I realize this is just the proto-type but hopefully the finished product will come with some extra optics so the users can set the lamp up to provide the beam pattern that best suits their purpose. With the current optics I feel the lamp can only be used on the bars. That said it would make one hell of a bar lamp. With a 3-spot optic set-up it should make for one heck of a helmet lamp. I do like the tint of the XP3.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys I am running an output versus run time as I write, very impressive,. On my home made light sphere. On a fluxient 4400 mAh battery which had been fully charge 3 days ago and left, I got on start up 140500 lux, within 30 second, was reading 136100 
1 mn 133200
2mn 129400
3 mn 126300
4 mn 122500
5 mn 116900 when I switch the fan as the light was getting very hot to touch, a uniform 59 degree Celsius, heat transfer is excellent as the whole body did warm up evenly.
Within 5mn with a home fan about 12inches away, the temp dropped to 47degree

10 mn 124600 lux
15 mn 125200 -42 degree Celsius
20 mn 125000
Measurements are taken every five minute with the output staying firmly at 125000 lux and the heat at 42 degree 
Increase at 45mn with the XP3 showing 126300 lux
50mn 126300 lux
55mn 125900 lux but as soon as taken off the fan path and positioned on the light box with no coolin, I can see the output dropping from 1259,1258, to 1256, 1255 when I put is back in front of the fan. So heat as expected has a lot of influence on how quickly the output will drop, so one to turn down as soon as you stop! 
60mn 125900 lux This is well regulated 60mn on high with a flat discharge line!
I don't know how the Gloworm XS behave, but looking at Ituo past prices, I would hazard a guess that we may have found a very good and cheaper alternative to the GW XS??????:thumbsup:
65mn 125300 lux


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

70mn 124900 lux, I have just noticed that the battery warning led via the switch is red, it may have been read for longer?? and may not have noticed it. My room light on and the warning light is not very bright:skep:
74 mn 26 second light turn off, no warning at all! I would bet that red warning light had been on a lot longer and I have not noticed it.

Well I personally think 74 mn on high out of a 4400 mAh good quality battery is really good:thumbsup:.
So with a much bigger capacity battery, I think you may get 90mn plus on high.

A few Figures 
ITUO XP3 PROTOTYPE ON START UP 140500 LUX
ITUO WIZ20 ON START UP 80800 LUX
GLOWORM X2 ON START UP 85100 LUX


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Regarding output estimation, from some unscientific calculation here is what I guess the light is.

The new 2015 Gloworm X2, tested by MTBR was giving 1545 lumens, so this figure divided by 85100 lux that I have recorded out of my DIY sphere, give you 0.00181551

then multiplied by 140500 lux from the same DIY sphere does give me 2550.7915 lumens on start up 
and a 2269.3875 lumens constant for 74mn,
I know this is a very ruff calculation but this is looking good!

Gloworm XS according to MTBR do give 2350 Lumens, *but I would be cautious with their figures as this is only tested for 3mn, so if you do have a step down and/or a gradually lowering output, they do not tell you as the light is not tested for long enough!*

My tests despite the fact that are no way as accurate that MTBR and only given in Lux, they are done until light switch off, so giving you a good understanding of the light behaviour on the trails.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
> Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com
> 
> -Garry


I have orded some of the connectors as per Garry 's posting so should be able shortly to see the current pull


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Can you tell us more about your DIY light sphere? Post a pic? I'm in process of building a 12" round foam sphere myself.

-Garry


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Can you tell us more about your DIY light sphere? Post a pic? I'm in process of building a 12" round foam sphere myself.
> 
> -Garry


 my DIY sphere was modeled from a CPF thread Building an Integrating Sphere ...
My was made out of nearly 12" polystyrene sphere (all I could obtain was a metric size sphere), a baffle was made out of white cardboard and glued inside, to to part of the sphere glued, kitchen foil paper was wrapped on the outside of the sphere to make sure no light would escape and the lot wrapped in masking tape. This was originally done to test the P60 droppings from Solarforce , from the days I use to use a couple of them. The window then had to be enlarged to receive bike lights and in the end I am making some template with a black card to position the light on the top of the opening. As you see this is far from high tech, but this does give you a measurement with which you can make a comparison. What I am getting out of it is not a lumens estimation but an idea of the run time, if the light had a step down, and an lux figure that I can compare with my other lights.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks Skyraider59. You could very easily convert your lux readings to lumens. Just need to calculate your multiplier based on some known light sources (which you seemed to do above).

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Actually with taking the time (and have a few lights that the lumens are tested and known) that sphere can be calibrated so you can give lumens. Will require a little more work possibly before calibration but its easy to do.

My sphere started it's life THE EXACT same way as yours, polystyrene sphere nothing more. Garry is doing the same.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Thanks Skyraider59. You could very easily convert your lux readings to lumens. Just need to calculate your multiplier based on some known light sources (which you seemed to do above).
> 
> -Garry


 This was a very quick estimation as my light box has not been calibrated, Never got round to do it as I have not got enough lights that have been independently tested.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Actually with taking the time (and have a few lights that the lumens are tested and known) that sphere can be calibrated so you can give lumens. Will require a little more work possibly before calibration but its easy to do.
> 
> My sphere started it's life THE EXACT same way as yours, polystyrene sphere nothing more. Garry is doing the same.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


 Tigris tel me more on how you calibrated your sphere. 
all you recording I guess were taken 30s after turn on?
What lumens figures did you use, solely MTBR?


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
> Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com
> 
> -Garry


Garry, could you advise on this, I am in the UK so looking for a local source, is that the voltmeter/ammeter you use? If I need some help with wiring instruction , would you be able to advise me? 
DC 100V 10A Voltmeter Ammeter Blue + Red LED Amp Dual Digital Volt Meter Gauge | eBay


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I think you want the 0-30v model as that one you linked says it'll only show voltage to one decimal place. Here's the one I use: DC 0 30V 0 10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage | eBay

Make sure that yours comes with the "shunt" (thick bare "bar" of wire near the connector plugs on the pcb) as some do not (reported by another BLF member).

Wiring is fairly easy and my link has a good wiring diagram. Just be sure to use thick short wires. PM me if you need help wiring it.

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Skyraider59 said:


> Tigris tel me more on how you calibrated your sphere.
> all you recording I guess were taken 30s after turn on?
> What lumens figures did you use, solely MTBR?


All my readings are at 30 seconds. My calibrations done using ituo wiz20 (got their readings and how they compare to Mtbr sphere), ANSI certified flashlights that I researched to get an avg lumen output from the several reviews on each, couple heavily tested blf group buy flashlights, and now my X2 helped dial things in all the way.

It takes time and research unless you can get access to a real sphere to test your current lights.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

What you have been waiting for! Got some connectors as advised by Garry and this was connected to my cheap Chinese multimeter. Here are the readings from my XP3 prototype, standard 3 modes







off







low







medium







high
Readings taken out of the Fluxient 4400mAh battery that I have used for the run time/output test


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> All my readings are at 30 seconds. My calibrations done using ituo wiz20 (got their readings and how they compare to Mtbr sphere), ANSI certified flashlights that I researched to get an avg lumen output from the several reviews on each, couple heavily tested blf group buy flashlights, and now my X2 helped dial things in all the way.
> 
> It takes time and research unless you can get access to a real sphere to test your current lights.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


looks like I am going to have to find a little more spare time, to do all this


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

5.25A on high?! Wow! I would have expected your readings to be low using the stock meter leads. Over at BLF we advise people to make homemade leads using short thick wires (14AWG or thicker) to cut down on the amount of resistance your leads put into the circuit. Then again, the higher voltage of a 2S bike battery pack helps too versus a single cell flashlight. I wouldn't expect your current reading to go much higher with custom leads.

-Garry


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Skyraider59 do you possibly know if the driver is boost (leds are in series) or buck (leds are in parallel) type and is it fully regulated ie. is it providing constant output power? 

It is nice to see your current measurments, but it is lacking of voltages at the same time. Namely if the driver is regulated it would pull much more current if the voltage at it's terminals is low. So we can't compare those 5.25A directly to our measurments we have done with our 2 led lights. 

I'm expecting this driver is boost one pulling very high current as the voltage drop over thin wires and poor connections is substantial. So Garry, don't be so excited. 

Edit: I meant thin wires and connections used to make measurements possible. 
Don't know what AWG is stock cabling.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Had a look in my garage this evening and found some automotive amp meter cable, not to sure the rating 17.5 amps, rewired my leads and took some more measurements, which this time is a fraction higher than with the first wires I used. Also I have noticed that as the light was getting hotter the amps draw were increasing, , sorry was not monitoring the time







low







medium







high first measurement at turn on,







high second one around 1mn or a little more


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I would expect bigger difference. Anyway it is hard to say anything definitive without measuring voltage drop from batteries to the driver. 

Still can you tell the leds are connected in series or in parallel?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't think that meter is right. Especially with a small 4400mah pack trying to run it. Gator clips holding wires to leads definitely can't sustain that kind of current especially on those skinny wires going between everything.

My little display is ran on 18awg and is in parallel.

Only possibility I see is ituo has the driver output at 6amps give or take and the voltage sag is so bad with this set up that the driver is fighting to draw enough current cause it can't get the voltage it needs.

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I have email a US seller for DC 0-30V 0-10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter to make sure the one they are selling do come with the shunt bar as per photo. I am waiting to hear, If OK I will order one

DC 0 30V 0 10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage | eBay


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes this is the one I use. Make wires as short as you can so you would minimize the voltage drop. A bit thicker wires would be even better. For better accuracy I would somehow solder thicker wires to the pins on the meter. Using connector is another point of looses. Of course it is not so practical.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

The second set of reading were done after I replace the unknown wire by one rated 17.5amps 28/0.30, 2.0mm², 17.5A - cable OD 3.3mm


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Used a block connector with the 17.5amp wire to give a better connection
The test s are this time done with the GLOWORM BATTERY rated at 5800mAh















__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









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Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content








I will take all this to work tomorrow and use one of our technician's multimeter, theirs are a lot more expensive than mine!


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> I don't think that meter is right. Especially with a small 4400mah pack trying to run it.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Will try another meter tomorrow, I don't know what cells Fluxient use in their pack, but this one appear to be of good quality, this run happily my Gloworm X2 on high for a fair time and 74mn on high with the XP3.

If this may help to establish how good or bad my meter ease
I have just tested my Gloworm x2 with it's battery, 
L-0.85
M-1.89
H-3.12


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Holy crap ur meter is way off lol. I get just over 2A from my xt2

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Not necessary. If the driver is regulated then it pulls more and more current as the voltage drops. And voltage drops even more when you switch to higher mode. That's why I'm keep telling he needs to measure voltage at the same time. This would tell us much more. 

Skyraider59, take your DMM with you to your job and measure both A and V at the same time and record them. Also you may measure voltage on both DC connectors under load to see the voltage drop over DMM.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

This might help. Copied from my GearBest Triple review:
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-nigh...st-triple-xm-l2-3-mode-bike-light-944406.html

"I measured current to the emitters at 1.886A while the driver pulled 0.97A from the stock [email protected] 7.93v no load (7.54v under load). Using my Pannova case with two 4.06v cells saw the same results. Here is a pic showing this test:"










-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It is off, max peak current draw is 2.5A @ 6.8V. I had to dig through my run time/output test for the x2. With desktop computer down transfering results into Google docs w/ graph isn't doable ATM.

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

What is off here? Leds are getting 5.6W and power between battery pack and driver is 7.3W. The difference 1.7W is lost (transformed to heat) due to resistance in cabling+connectors and inefficiency of the driver. When you do that kind of measurments overall efficiency is worse than in reality as you have at least one more connector and we don't know what is their resistance.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

He's getting well over 3A on his readings. His setup isn't really different than mine. Same connectors I use on my v/ammeter display. So his meter reading .75A more on the x2 with a "fresh pack" tells me the meter calibration is off. Not his fault. I calibrated my set up again thanks to Artur and myself both having matching sets of Xeccon prototypes. 

I'll bet a better meter will read more accurately and close to mine. Even my $25 DMM I had was off, didn't know it till I went to the store to buy one that was rated for Higher current (and better brand).

It happens, but as I have my readings for the X2 I can help him make sure his is in spec when he gets it. 

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Tig, sorry I'm confused. Are you talking about Garrys or Skyraider59s measurments? I was thinking you were replying to the Garrys picture. I might be wrong.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Skyraider, not Garry's set ups.

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Ah, OK. Your post was just below Garry's not telling you are reffering to Skyraider, so I naturaly thought it is aimed to Garry's post. You know I'm not the native to the English language.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I know, I just didn't see Garry's post, just replied to yours (on my phone) as my phone didn't update the posts before I replied

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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

It's crazy the amount of time and energy that goes into reviewing these lights. Big time props to you guys. How long does it usually take to go to production from the prototype stage?


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Got it guys, will be testing the xp3 with automotive professionnal multimeters this lunch time, i have also got my GW X2 for comparaison tests


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys, buy cheap, buy twice, my multimeter is going in the bin as , i will post the photos this evening but here are mesurements with profesionnal automotive equipment.
With the fluxient battery 4400mAh
Off 8.26v. 0.03a
L. 8.01v. ,0.89a
M. 7.77v. 1.70a
H. 7.23v. 3.51a

With the Gloworm 5800mAh the XP3 is also a little warmer by now
Off. 8.27v. 0.03a
L. 7.95v. 0.89
M. 7.65v. 1.71a
H. 7.07. 3.56a

So what do you recon?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

That is much more realistic. 25W of the battery on Hi. 

If you can somewhat discharge one of the batteries or have another with lower voltage it would be nice to have another reading of cool light on Hi. If regulated should read something like:

H. 6.51. 3.89a
or 
H. 6.00. 4.21a


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sorry to confuse you guys with my post  . Thanks for the updated better stats SR59! 

-Garry


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

OK Ledoman, 
Borrowed from work another multimeter to do more tests this evening, battery used is the Fluxient 4400mAh pack

battery showing 8.26v
L 8.04v 0.90a
M 7.83v 1.73a
H 7.35v 3.54a
H 7.30v 3.50a

I have run the XP3 on high for 20mn
battery now showing 7.65v

L 7.46v- 0.96a
M 7.26v 1.84a
H 6.83v 3.70a
Still have not heard from my contact at ITUO, so they may still be on holiday or are back but very busy trying to catch up!


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Done some more readings with the battery being on high for another 10+mn
7.21v
L 7.01v 1.04a
M 6.81v 1.98a
H 6.34V 3.95a Looking like regulated to me


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That's a serious amount of lumens, ~2.5A per emitter (assuming 90% driver efficiency) so realistically 2.25A after losses.

Rough calculation assuming U2 bin (they may be U3) and the optics their known to use is around 2300 lumens OTF.

Whether my calculations are rather close or low (or even a slightly on the high side). Look out gloworm XS, you have real competition lol.

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yeah, it looks regulated and I'm assuming it has boost circuit with leds connected in series. There can be as much as 2.2A per led. Don't know but 90% efficiency is bit high as circuit needs to lift the voltage. 90% maybe when the pack is full. 

Since you have prototype light and all mesurment equipment there you could desolder one of the wires at leds PCB and mesure actual current and voltage. Similar to the Garry's setup on the previous page. Of course this is just to prove our calculations.

Yes there can be more than 2000Lm OTF, at least at the beginning when light is cold. Shurely it is very prommising.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'm actually thinking it's 3p. The behavior I'm seeing in his readings concur with 3p buck driver. Efficiency is high on my "guess" but it was just a number to use. I even said it was high (90% being 2.5A per emitter) thus the decrease I posted of 2.25A as a guess.

I'm working on a prototype buck driver, 95% efficiency, 2A (confirmed) per emitter. It behaves the same as this light. Voltage drops, driver current draw increases slightly near the end of charge cycle. Actually all my 3p lights do. Just the amount of change varies. 200-300mA isn't much of a change. Exactly the same as I'm seeing with my prototype.

I could be wrong as I've never bothered with a boost driver so it could behave the same as a buck but I didn't understand it as functioning that way.




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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

I'm not expert either . Archie might tell us more about that matter, in general at least. 

Regading this light Skyraider95 would be the best source showing us the leds PCB or at least see how the traces on PCB are designed. If the driver is regulated then it can be either 3P or 3S. 

3P acts as one big led so the driver has to increase the current (on Hi that would be 3x 2.25A = 6.75A) which can only do by taking some voltage and trasform it to the current. 

3S on the other hand needs more voltage so more current is pulled from the battery and transformed to the voltage (aprox. 9.6V on Hi).

Both processes has some looses. 3P would need quite thick wires from the driver to the leds (think of 6.75A), 3S can use thinner wireing so it is more suitable for multi leds setups and commonly used in those 6, 7up lights we have already seen here. That's why I'm more inclined to 3S setup. Of course I can be wrong, too


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

What I'm testing now is 22awg wire. The formula Garry gave us, current draw x2 divided number of LEDs. Some losses but like what I'm working on, output concurs with proper drive current. The up side of this set up is no loss of regulation during the entire runtime. Going the other route you loose regulation as soon as cells can't support the current draw to keep the voltage up.

IMO it doesn't make sense to run a boost driver just because of the lost run time to boost voltage. Ever increasing amount of current draw as the voltage from battery decreases.

Why I came to conclusion that this light is 3p. But like I said, could be buck drivers that don't behave this way, who knows. I just realized a couple days ago that linear drivers are still around. And can be very efficient if input and output voltages are within a couple volts.

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

More info on yhe XP3 from my Ituo contact <<The XP3 has boost circuit and with the 3 led in series. Also the XP3 has the temperature management, when the light gets too hot it will drop in output and when the light gets cool the output will increase. The max output on the sample is about 2300 lumens. >>.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Here is more info from my Ituo contact: The XP3 has boost circuit and with the 3 led in series. Also the XP3 has the temperature management, when the light gets too hot it will drop in output and when the light gets cool the output will increase. The max output on the sample is about 2300 lumens.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks for the info. Just like I thought so it is boost and 3S. Would be nice to see clear and sharp macro pictures of the driver (both sides). Just to see how it is constructed. Please do it when you get chance to open the shell. 

Good to hear it has temperature management. It is very important not to overheat the leds and driver.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya I'm kind of shocked to see that, didn't expect to see a solid boost driver that's not drawing current like crazy. Seems they have good efficiency in their design.

Now I'm wanting to see how it performs over the entire run time. Seems ituo is doing pretty well with a boost driver (better than Fenix)

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I had to test the temperature management, not something I was confident with in case it did not work and I fried a good light! Did the Test with my fluxient battery again about 90-95% charged, and position the XP3 on the sphere and left it there with no air flow and watch the output dropped while the light was getting hotter and hotter, got to 62 degree Celsius, within 6mn, (measurement taken in the top centre of the light), then the heat stopped rising but the lux kept dropping to 50100Lux around 8mn showing 51 degree, then started going up slowly, by 10mn It was showing 57500 lux and decided to give it some cool air via the fan to see if I could speed up the recovery and within 2mn the lux were right up to 123000 with the light temp showing 35degree. I have not tried it on a club night forest run yet due to recovering from a chest/lungs infection. But I am hopping to do this in a couple of weeks. What I would expect in real life is for the heat management not to come in action unless you stop and leave the XP3 on high (well here in the UK as we never get high temperatures). So the heat management works, this is not a step down but a gradual but fast ouput drop and as long as you let the light cool down you will return to you high output.

I have been asked by Ituo not to show photos of the inside/electronics as this is a prototype and they may alter it before the production run. As Ituo have been very co operative with us and also have been implementing some of our feedback and wishes, I will follow their request to keep good relations with them. Sorry guys


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Sounds good, but what we're your initial lux readings - turn on and after 30 seconds. Assuming it's close to the 123,000 number. 

-Garry


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Sorry, I realised that I did not give starting lux ouput, 
30s was showing 131000lux.
So after dropping to 50100 lux due to heat this went up to 123000 after applying some airflow. 
I did some road riding this evening and went trough a small park with the XP3 mounted on my helmet and on high this is awesome. I recon you could easily forget about a bar light, except for the fact that once on your lid, you will not see the battery light and this will not give you any warning of the light turning off due to low battery, so for safety I do always ride with another light on (don't like to be plunged in darkness :bluefrown:.)
I think Cat was spot on, beam is to wide for a helmet light and would benefit of a tighter beam with different optics if used as an helmet light.
Saying this , I think the XP3 may already have a 10 or 15 degree optics, difficult to tell But if position with beam facing upwards but light against a wall, the beam side reflection appear to be narrow , will have to check with ITUO


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Just had confirmation from Ituo, the XP3 use 10degree optic, so won't be able to get a tighter beam, i supposed the wide beam had to be expected due to the LED in line set up. Still very nice has an helmet light, will try to do some filming.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

If it's on 3 10deg optics, then the throw is excellent (and surpasses any small dual emitter lights), just as expected the coverage pattern is wider because they are inline.

More emitters ALWAYS means a wider pattern. And increased total output even though beam is wider, the throw is still better (which explains the throw we see in the beam shots, narrow optics) than less emitters if 2 things are equal or greater:

-Lumens produced per emitter
-narrow beam optic of same design and diameter

Reason is that the central spot is where all emitter output beams overlap, so increased spot intensity. That equals greater throw.

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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Skyraider59 said:


> Just had confirmation from Ituo, the XP3 use 10degree optic, so won't be able to get a tighter beam, i supposed the wide beam had to be expected due to the LED in line set up. Still very nice has an helmet light, will try to do some filming.


Well that's kind of disappointing. Then again I'm having the same issue with the Duo-R. Of course if we can source a 6° optic more light could possibly be harnessed for throw. Two 6°'s and one 10° could be a sweet combo with a triple ( for helmet use )

On the other hand the Gloworm XS ( triple ) is likely using slightly bigger optics and might have the better throw. It would be interesting to see how the new version of the Gemini Olympia might compare with the ITUO XP3.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

How much throw are you going for?? 10deg optics are as tight as your going to get. As you said gloworm has every so slightly larger optics, but that barely brings them under 10 deg optics. Maybe equal to 10 deg on HI emitters I'll have to check.

Anything smaller in this diameter just doesn't exist. Wanting a 6 deg spot means reflectors and/or xp-l hi. Xp-l hi (dedomed emitters in general) only tighten the beam pattern by a couple degrees.

I think the ONLY one of our "known" lights that would prove better for throw would be the XS but it would be marginal.



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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I have one of those cheap ($3-$6) single AA China flashlights that comes with aspheric lens that slides in an out to provide different levels of zoom. At its most focused setting it projects the actual led die shape! 

I know it's not the optics you guys are talking about, but I can't imagine anything more focused than that.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

You could always go XP-E2 for a tighter beam, but at the loss of a LOT of lumens (i.e. pencil beam). Don't think anyone wants that. I personally really liked the results from XP-L HI's with 10º optics in my Yinding (though I haven't actually ridden with that light yet). 

-Garry


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

garrybunk said:


> ... I personally really liked the results from XP-L HI's with 10º optics in my Yinding (though I haven't actually ridden with that light yet).
> 
> -Garry


Yes, I was thinking the same thing about XP-L HI but I don't think we're going to get to chose which emitters the lamp is using.

I know I've run across 6 degree optics before but likely they were ( are ) not the size we need. Output even with the 10 degree optics are still quite wide. Not that this doesn't ( or can't ) work but I can't help but think how nice the throw would be if the beam pattern at distance was about half the size. If the lamp ( XP3 ) is giving the user usable throw at 200 ft. that should work well enough for a helmet lamp but it would seem odd to me to have such a wide beam coming off the helmet. Of course I don't own one so I'm just speculating at this point. The SStorm XT40 I have has a wide beam but not so wide that I thought it was too wide.

Like what was said before, The fact that the emitter configuration is 3-in-a-row is going to have an effect on the beam pattern. That's one of the reasons why I've considered a Lupine Wilma for the helmet. Sadly though Lupine is still not offering a NW board for the new Wilma's ( as far as I know ).

I'm not going to write off the XP3 yet though. If they sell these for the right price there's a good chance I might buy one. Then again if Gloworm releases a "wireless remote" version of the XS I likely will go with one of those. I would seriously consider a Gemini Olympia-R for the helmet but the NW emitters that Gemini lamps are using are really not warm enough for my taste. Since I now own both a Gloworm and Gemini lamp in NW I know I prefer the tint on the GW's to the Gemini's.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I've seen 6 and 4deg optics, but their 26mm, 40mm etc. 

I see where the big throw comes in handy if you've got a long line of site, me I don't so I'm finding I like high power 10-15deg helmet optics and lower power on the bars. When I look around a corner I want to see the whole thing, not a round spot on the trail. 

Thing is throw is a lot better than people realize. When 2 xp-l hi on 10 deg optics, just around 1800 lumens can light up a deer rather well at 150 yards I realized I'm running a bit of overkill. I have since dropped my yinding back to standard xp-l v6. Wider beam a bit and obviously more ouput. A lot less throw but still exceeds anything I could ever need.

A lot of what I've come to realize is we fight to overpower bright, medium width bar lights by increasing spot intensity of helmet lights. I like the way I'm running now (just a personal preference) of heavy flood on the bars but not very powerful output, have the power on the lid with a good throwy spot but useable spill. That whole issue of high powered bar light in a narrower beam bouncing around just throws my focus off.

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I am in the process of editing some filming I did this evening , a loop circuit around one of our local farm, you will also see on the fim where I do take my still shots. I have done the same circuit with the WIZ20 bar light, GW X2 helmet light and the WIZXP3 helmet light. I will let you judge for yourself:ihih:


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

PART 1 WIZ XP3




 The XP3 beam could have benefited of being adjusted a little higher, the hot spot seen in the film is not as apparent in live night cycling, you just get a lot of light on the floor if directed close to you!
Here is the Gloworm X2




Last film, the WIZ20 fitted on the bar


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Skyraider59 said:


> ...*The XP3 beam could have benefited of being adjusted a little higher,*( *the above video ) the hot spot seen in the film is not as apparent in live night cycling, you just get a lot of light on the floor if directed close to you!


Yes, a little higher would of been better. I was glad when you made the left onto the double track that you started to lift your head to show more distance throw. Throw looks pretty good in this video and generally I don't like to use video to demonstrate throw. For that matter its hard to demonstrate throw even with still photos.

I know you said the hot-spot in the video is not apparent to your vision but the camera is more sensitive to the area of intense light. That tells me that the optics are indeed focusing more light into the center area of the beam pattern. I like the tint of the XP3 and it looks like it can indeed work very well on the helmet. Thanks for the video.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

The filming is very close to what I could see, the lighting and colours are right, but some of it is enhanced like the PWM or the harsh hot spot on near buy things, ground, bushes etc. But again if you watch the filming with the GW X2, again you will see a similar hot spot, which for those of you who have tried the GW X2, will know that this is not the case while you ride. I loved my X2 as an helmet light, but XP3 will take its place on my next forest ride


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hi Emailed my Ituo contact yesterday to find out how their new WIZ XP3 is coming on, and I have been informed that they are hopping to have samples mid March and production/retail end of April. I have also raised the question if the Head will be available without a battery pack and yes it will be for sale with and without a battery pack. Real good news for a lot of us on this forum as we all have multitudes of battery packs. BEWARE, what ever pack you use will have to be made of quality cells
for example the fluxient 4 cells 4400, the gw 4 cells 5800, and the CB SEEN 2 removable cell with two pluzpower 3200 cell are working ok on high (probably for not very long with the two cells, this also wisle at you quite happily  ) but with CB SEEN 4 cells battery pack 4400mAh, as soon as you put the light on high, the light turn off, I suspect this will be the same with most of e-bays battery packs.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The reason they shut off when you go to high is the light draws more than the protection circuit is capable of.

Most companies are making note of the battery packs mainly because of the liability. The cheap packs are high risk for many reasons and IMO need to be banned unless they meet proper regulations.

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys I have received one of the US bay seller amp/volt meter.They are talking about calibrating the meter, for those who have done it, can you help a little as I do not want to blow anything up.

Do I need to do it on this one?

and do you short all together PLUS, MINUS AND GROUND, don't sound right to me????








DC 0 30V 0 10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage | eBay


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Never used that one. The one I have has pots in the back to adjust current and voltage calibration, just used my DMM. Then turn the pots slightly to get the readings correct.

The picture you show has clear instructions, just follow them closely and you should be fine.

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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Mine didn't require calibration. I just simply compared the readings on the display to my own digital meter. I doubt you have the accurate 10.0v source to calibrate with anyway.

-Garry


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

garrybunk said:


> Mine didn't require calibration. I just simply compared the readings on the display to my own digital meter. I doubt you have the accurate 10.0v source to calibrate with anyway.
> 
> -Garry


 Tried it without their calibration instruction and got the same reading as the work DMM, SO HAPPY WITH THIS!


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## GeeKeR (Apr 18, 2015)

Any word on pricing Sky? I've been wanting to jump on one of the Gloworm XS deals on Action LED but the Wiz XP3 seems to be a good contender. If the pricing is similar/better, I want to see how they match up.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Yeah I'm holding off on the xs gloworm as well. The x2 just kicks ass on performance. But... I am open to this one at a good price. I got a brand new panny 4cell for a triple flamethrower! and a 2 cell from KD for my x2. Getting kinda pricey coming from my beloved bt21,bt40! Lol.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well, can't give you price details on this light (don't think they have a set price for the XP series yet) but I CAN TELL YOU:

Ituo will have a US location with full sales support including warranty service for all their products. Only detail I know is this:https://www.ituolights.com/
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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Back on the trails last Friday after a 3 months brake due to bad health. I had to try the XP3 on a proper forest ride. Unfortunately I took the wrong mount for my bar light so ended up going out with just the untested XP3 on my lid. Not the kind of thing I like to do , if this decided to pack up , I will be left in the dark, not a pleasant thought! Anyway I should be OK as I tested the XP3 at home under a cooling fan , and this was good for over an hour on full power. Half of our ride was done in falling daylight, the rest on full power until the light decided to go into safe mode about 20mn in its run. Not good, but after all, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE, and Ituo had warn me a few weeks ago that the light was still under development as they were not that happy with the electrics. I can confirm this now . Apart from that, the light was great , having just one light, the beam angle had to be adjusted carefully to get a good compromise between having enough light at the front of my bike but still giving me enough throw to see the trail in the far distance. When the light went in safe mode I was filming, you will see the result , luckily I was not going fast and was reaching the end of the trail I was riding. Again the harsh hot spot seen in the film is not seen by the human eyes, the beam is a lot more gradual.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

That's a pretty brutal stepdown. You didn't seem to be going that fast, maybe you just weren't going fast enough to justify a high setting. I think they need to increase the amount of surface area. Maybe the cooling fins just aren't big enough to remove the amount of heat generated, especially at lower speeds. That was always going to be the trouble with a hard-driven triple led light. 

What happens after it steps down, does it recover and go back up to high?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

ya that step down is too much. Shouldnt step below 50%, that was brutal.

But that said you were going WAY too slow to be using max output. Not many lights are going to deal well with that. Small lights with high output need air moving to cool. Low speed at max power its going to step down rather easily. 20 minutes in at those speeds though really isnt bad.

Hopefully they are taking our advise, moving the logo to the back of the light and using that area for more fins and going with deeper fins as well.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

More details on what happened with the XP3 prototype. Firstly, conditions were very wet that day , it had been raining all day until start of the ride, so you are right, I was not going fast, this also happen a few yards just before the end of that trail. Being a prototype I wanted to put it through it paces, the light also is supposed to have a thermal protection circuit which should decrease output until the light cool down a little and output should increase again. Under my DIY "lab" (spare room)  this did appear to work, as soon as an electric fan was turned on next to the light, the decreasing output stopped and started to increase again after about 5mn.. 

That night the light had been turned on on full power, the down hill ride took 23 mn which included 20m moving time, the other 3mn where spent stopping and waiting for the other rider, (about 30s approx at a time), during that time the light was checked by hand and despite the fact this was very hot, this was not considered critical. One of my first feedback to Ituo when I first had it, was the lack of cooling fins and specially their depth. The inside of the light I think is good has they have a full integral divider cast wall between the MCPB with the LEDs and the back circuit board, with just a small hole to let the wires through, so they would be a good heat transfer, I think the problem is as mentioned, not enough cooling surface on the body. The Recovery was very slow and no good as even after the light being turned for 10mn , I could still only get safe mode about 60/70 lumens. I thought I had damaged it until the next day when I tried it and it came up with its normal full output of around 2400 lumens. Glad I did not damage it. Guys don't be harsh on the light, as mentioned before, a while back I asked them how their XP3 was coming on and I was told that they were still working on it, specially the electrics. Looking at their WIZ 1,2 and 20, I have no doubt that will crack it and give us a good triple LED. Really nice to be able to test a prototype and be able to find its weakness.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Can't wait to see the preproduction samples. Good work putting the prototype thru real world testing. Seems as though Ituo is quick to implement changes to improve their lights.
I'm definitely guilty of occasionally not turning down my lights as speed decreases.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

subscribed, nice to see the "match" between this one and the other one which is under developing! (from Gearbest i think)


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Be a while before the match up happens, a long while. I won't see one till they go into production most likely at which point I'll have to buy one for the sake of all this "science" lol.

I don't expect much from that custom one though. Decent output and better than any other cheap light (except no way they could produce a light that compares to branded lights and holds up for the long term in off road conditions. Parts costs to meet those demands for long term durability are much higher)

I am looking forward to the light but this xp3 will be my primary light for a long time. When Ituo comes out with something better which will be hard to beat this thing. This on the lid, xp2 on wide optics on the bars and I'm golden to ride as fast as I want on any trail I want.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Hi, Just wanted to say that the ITUO Wiz-XP2 and Wiz-XP3 are now available in the UK. BrightBikeLights.com are the UK supplier - and stock is in the UK now. I see a lot of lights and in my opinion ITUO are by a long way the best up-coming supplier on the market.


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Hi, Just wanted to say that the ITUO Wiz-XP2 and Wiz-XP3 are now available in the UK. BrightBikeLights.com are the UK supplier - and stock is in the UK now. I see a lot of lights and in my opinion ITUO are by a long way the best up-coming supplier on the market. 

Sorry for accidental duplicate posting


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

TrevorJackson - I am curious, what makes you a bike light expert as it says in your signature? 

Looks to me like your signature should say "I work for BrightBikeLights.com". You have made 3 posts on MTBR and all three are advertising BrightBikeLights.com?




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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

I don't make any secret of the fact - I run the website BrightBikeLights.com. I have been working with ITUO, as have many others, in providing feedback on their light designs. My honest opinion is that they have excellent products and it is refreshing to see such well produced lights. I don't think making forum users aware of where they are available is bad, is it ?. BrightBikeLights are the UK online supplier for the ITUO range.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I understand wanting to let ppl know, good info.

I'm with scar though, bike light expert????? A lot of us here have a lot of time involved in testing and such. Some like me, mole, Garry and so on have equipment, others like Cat and mole having been testing for more years than I can try to sort out. Scar builds awesome lights DIY style. And none of us use that signature.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

I take your point. And I absolutely respect the level of knowledge, expertise and investment shown by people in this forum, in relation to ITUO and other lights. I've changed my profile to 'BrightBikeLights'.


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