# cane creek DB IL coil thread



## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Thought I would start a thread as I got mine fitted a couple of days ago on my transition suppressor.

I ballsed up the spring calculation so I've had to order another spring lol Its currently fitted with a standard CC 400lb spring but I've ordered a 350lb nuke proof SLS spring which should arrive soon.




























only had a couple of miles to test it out so far but even with the 400lb spring its better than the monarch plus that was previously fitted. Once the new spring comes I'll be able to fully test and set up the damping properly.


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

*Intense Primer*

My XC race bike for next year. Decided to try a coil in the rear for the first time in 15 years. No more changing spring rates due to temperature changes or overhating shock. Bike weighs 23lbs with 2.35 Racing Ralph SnakeSkin an 130mm fork.


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## JTmofo (May 16, 2013)

Ole said:


> My XC race bike for next year. Decided to try a coil in the rear for the first time in 15 years. No more changing spring rates due to temperature changes or overhating shock. Bike weighs 23lbs with 2.35 Racing Ralph SnakeSkin an 130mm fork.
> 
> View attachment 1098540
> View attachment 1098541
> View attachment 1098542


What spring you running? Ti?


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

JTmofo said:


> What spring you running? Ti?


Steel at the moment, waiting for Beta C Ti from Lite-Springs.


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## RicB (Apr 4, 2007)

Anyone else running one of these yet? Thinking of speccing one on a 2017 Five so keen to hear feedback

Thought one of the mags would've done a review by now tbh


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

get one, you won't regret it


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## carbine_275 (Nov 15, 2015)

Planning to fit a 190x50 on my Banshee Phantom, which should hopefully be a nice improvement over the DB inline.


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Anyone have comparison to CC DBA?


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## bedell99 (Jan 5, 2007)

I have one on my Norco Sight. It rips but has a weakness. Overall the shock outperforms the Inline air but it acts odd over jumps. It just doesn't have the pop that the Inline air has. Other than that it is more complient and better in all areas. The best part of the shock is its small bump compliance. Nothing beats a cool in that regard. I had to bump up the spring to 400lb from the recommended 350lb as per Cane Creek to get more mid support. 

Erik


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Can u share Your weight geared


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## bedell99 (Jan 5, 2007)

I weigh 148 and around 155-158 all geared up. As per the spring rate calculator on Cane Creek site I was in a solid 350 lb range but noticed when I rode the bike real hard, I suffered from pedal strikes and a little of bottoming out really hitting square edge bumps. It was a better setup when I was trail riding and not pushing but at race speeds it was just too soft. 

Another thing I noticed when I went up in spring rate is to be perfect with setting your sag. It's real hard when you only have 1 turn to 1 1/2 turns of preload to get it perfect. Make sure your set it in your attack position. Even when I got the sag perfect at 17mm, I ended up getting a bit firmer to try to give it more feeling in the back. (Hard to explain but wanted more pop)

Also it will give you a stinkbike feeling unless you add some air to your fork. Once you commit to the stiffer setup you can actually fly but you really need to push to make the bike feel good. The bike also becomes a less forgiving unless you are hammering it. 



Erik


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

bedell99 said:


> I weigh 148 and around 155-158 all geared up. As per the spring rate calculator on Cane Creek site I was in a solid 350 lb range but noticed when I rode the bike real hard, I suffered from pedal strikes and a little of bottoming out really hitting square edge bumps. It was a better setup when I was trail riding and not pushing but at race speeds it was just too soft.
> 
> Another thing I noticed when I went up in spring rate is to be perfect with setting your sag. It's real hard when you only have 1 turn to 1 1/2 turns of preload to get it perfect. Make sure your set it in your attack position. Even when I got the sag perfect at 17mm, I ended up getting a bit firmer to try to give it more feeling in the back. (Hard to explain but wanted more pop)
> 
> ...


Eric
Your input is much appreciated as there is not many folks using coil IL and be able to compare it to regular DBA.

Correct me if i understood You incorrectly. 
Small bump sensitivity is top notch but it sounds like You had to increase preload to make it more usable on trails (less pedal bob) ? 
This resulted in overall harder feeling when You don't push it but when it becomes really jumpy than nothing can beat this setup?


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

carbine_275 said:


> Planning to fit a 190x50 on my Banshee Phantom, which should hopefully be a nice improvement over the DB inline.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Interesting sizes starting to show up, like to hear more about this


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## carbine_275 (Nov 15, 2015)

J: said:


> Interesting sizes starting to show up, like to hear more about this


I'm rethinking the shock choice after reviewing the leverage ratio curve for the Phantom. It appears that the spring requires some progressiveness in the last 1/3 or so of suspension travel, which the coil would not be able to provide.


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

carbine_275 said:


> ..after reviewing the leverage ratio curve for the Phantom. It appears that the spring requires some progressiveness in the last 1/3 or so of suspension travel, which the coil would not be able to provide.


That's what I was guessing, it's an interesting size to pack everything into, I would still look into it (bottom out bumpers/cones are available in a lot of shapes/sizes these days)


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## AlienRFX (Sep 27, 2006)

Anyone get a chirping noise from the Coil IL?


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## bedell99 (Jan 5, 2007)

Placek said:


> Eric
> Your input is much appreciated as there is not many folks using coil IL and be able to compare it to regular DBA.
> 
> Correct me if i understood You incorrectly.
> ...


That's the rub with a coil and the Norco Sight. In pedaly sections you get what appears or feel to be more bob with the standard spring rate. You can increase LSC and I played with that but it just took all the positives of the coil and made it harsh in the small stuff.

Why I increased preload and went to a stiffer spring was to get more mid support. This is a trick I learned from racing motocross. It helped the pedal bob, gave me more support in the middle and the bike doesn't bottom. The downside is you have to push this bike now. The faster you go the better it feels. When I'm just putting about it feels a bit harsh but when I'm descending as fast as I can it absolutely rips.

The one place I can't get it right is on the takeoff of jumps. I don't hit huge jumps but the standard PNW jumps we have around the Eastside of Seattle. The bike always feels nose high and the back end doesn't come up like I like it. I don't know how to explain it. It feels "dead" but to be truthful I never really set it up for jumps by taking out a crapload of rebound. It feels feel nice on landings.

I had so many problems the Inline Cane Creek and haven't had one issue with Inline Coil. The shock has been rock solid since day one. No chirping.

This shock would really benefit from a remote for pedally sections and then just open it up during fast descents. I can't wait until the OPT remote comes out.

Erik


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

bedell99 said:


> I have one on my Norco Sight. It rips but has a weakness. Overall the shock outperforms the Inline air but it acts odd over jumps. It just doesn't have the pop that the Inline air has. Other than that it is more complient and better in all areas. The best part of the shock is its small bump compliance. Nothing beats a cool in that regard. I had to bump up the spring to 400lb from the recommended 350lb as per Cane Creek to get more mid support.
> 
> Erik


what did you use to compress the spring to get it out.


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## bedell99 (Jan 5, 2007)

POAH said:


> what did you use to compress the spring to get it out.


What a huge pain in the ass removing the spring. I compressed the spring with my fingers just enough to have my wife pull out the collar. Definitely not the easiest.

Erik


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

bedell99 said:


> What a huge pain in the ass removing the spring. I compressed the spring with my fingers just enough to have my wife pull out the collar. Definitely not the easiest.
> 
> Erik


I got the wife to sit on the bike and I ziptied the spring. that worked a treat. The CC spring was way easier to get on that the nukeproof SLS one.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Never actually put up my settings for my coil IL on my suppressor.

400lb spring 180lb rider - I use my travel with these settings but never bottom out hard or even notice it. If I was doing more DH orientated trails I would get a stiffer spring (I might anyway)

These are clockwise from fully open

HSC 1.5 turns
LSC 5 clicks
HSR 1.25 turns
LSR 9 clicks


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

@POAH

So in your first post you said you were going to go to a 350 lb spring, but it seems you stuck with the 400... and perhaps might go even stiffer... how come? Why the reverse?

When you say it is better than your Monarch Plus, what do you mean by better? What does it do better than the Monarch?

I'm just hoping you could shed some light on your thought process and perceptions and opinions. I'm interested in this shock, I'm just unsure it is or isn't going to solve what I don't like about my monarch plus. I also don't know the first thing about choosing a coil. The calculators help but depending on the manufacture I'm seeing some variation in lbs suggested.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

spring weight is down to crapy calculators. The 350lb made the made too soft compared to the front, the 400lb is a lot better but I've got 3 turns of preload on it so though a 450 would remove the need for the preload and give me some wiggle room with the travel. I'm happy on the 400lb spring but its only £20 for a new spring to play with. 

The monarch just wasn't great, I couldn't get it to feel right. if I had it at 35% I needed a lot of spacers to stop it bottoming out on relatively small stuff but then it ramped up massively and felt hellish on landings. Putting more air in helped but ruined small bump but it's no comparison to the DB coil IL.


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## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

joining thread


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## Heiril (Nov 2, 2015)

Just the thread I need. Camping here...

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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

How are you guys getting your base tunes? Are you starting from a mid point or do you have a guideline to start with? 

Thinking about putting this on a 5010v2, curious if anyone has any settings on VPP bikes that worked well for them.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

set up by the store I bought it from and fine tuned by me. If you follow the app/paper tuning guide its easy.


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## RicB (Apr 4, 2007)

Adodero said:


> How are you guys getting your base tunes? Are you starting from a mid point or do you have a guideline to start with?
> 
> Thinking about putting this on a 5010v2, curious if anyone has any settings on VPP bikes that worked well for them.


I recall seeing Santa Cruz had developed a specific rocker link for coil shocks. Can't remember where I saw it - will have a think. VPP has a specific (and variable) leverage curve and I'm not sure coil will suit.


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## RicB (Apr 4, 2007)

Here you go - it was actually PUSH who made the new VPP link, to modify the leverage curve so their ElevenSix coil shock will work

https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/09/1...nsix-coil-shock-adds-santa-cruz-bronson-link/


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

RicB said:


> Here you go - it was actually PUSH who made the new VPP link, to modify the leverage curve so their ElevenSix coil shock will work
> 
> https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/09/1...nsix-coil-shock-adds-santa-cruz-bronson-link/


My understanding is that this is only for the VPP2 bikes (Bronson v1, 5010 v1), which had a more linear curve, but the changes in the newer iterations made it more progressive, which works better with the coil. I know PUSH uses a tune w/o changing the linkage on the 5010v2 and Bronson v2, my understanding is that it works out really well.


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

POAH said:


> Never actually put up my settings for my coil IL on my suppressor.
> 
> 400lb spring 180lb rider - I use my travel with these settings but never bottom out hard or even notice it. If I was doing more DH orientated trails I would get a stiffer spring (I might anyway)
> 
> ...


Just ordered the shock. Does it come with the tool to adjust preload on the coil?


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

yeah


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

POAH said:


> yeah


Awesome. Thank you.

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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

So far any problems with this shock was discovered?


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

I bought a CC DB IL Coil for my Riot. I'm about 200lbs and right now I have a 450 spring mounted with 3.5 turns of preload to get about 17mm sag. There doesn't seem to be an official tune for this bike/shock combo yet. I'm starting with the neutral base tune and will work from there as my starting point. HSC 2 LSC 7 HSR 2 LSR 10


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

I've got about 5 rides in mine so far. I'm 225 running a 500# spring. Probably going to try a 550. Running 5 or so turns of preload. Still on the recommended tune for the smuggler.









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## inaxganja (Aug 8, 2016)

*Il coil canyon spectral*

Mine working flawlessly after 5 months of abuse. Mounted on Canyon Spectral 140mm back (very progressive leverage ratio) with needle bearings, and 160mm RS Pike RCT3 front with AWK doble air chamber system. Coming form Inline Air very happy, but Coil is really impressive. When you get the right setup it gives amazing small bump compilance, plenty of traction, big hit support, super consistency, no overheating. Climb Switch works very well also.

500lb Spring for 84kg equipped rider, 3.5-4 turns of preload for 17-15mm (30-28%) Sag. Coming from Inline Air, started with same setup and finished adding some high speed compression and rebound damping to counteract the linnear feeling of the coil and give more end-stroke support. HSC: 2.5 - HSR: 3 - LSC: 5 - LSR: 12.


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## inaxganja (Aug 8, 2016)




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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

inaxganja said:


> Mine working flawlessly after 5 months of abuse. Mounted on Canyon Spectral 140mm back (very progressive leverage ratio) with needle bearings, and 160mm RS Pike RCT3 front with AWK doble air chamber system. Coming form Inline Air very happy, but Coil is really impressive. When you get the right setup it gives amazing small bump compilance, plenty of traction, big hit support, super consistency, no overheating. Climb Switch works very well also.
> 
> 500lb Spring for 84kg equipped rider, 3.5-4 turns of preload for 17-15mm (30-28%) Sag. Coming from Inline Air, started with same setup and finished adding some high speed compression and rebound damping to counteract the linnear feeling of the coil and give more end-stroke support. HSC: 2.5 - HSR: 3 - LSC: 5 - LSR: 12.
> 
> ...


Im planning to change my inline on my spectral AL29 to the Coil IL. Im around 81 kg without gear so I should be around 84 kg with gear. But when I put in the info on cane creek they recommend a 450 spring. I have 130 mm rear travel (190x50)


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## inaxganja (Aug 8, 2016)

sohl said:


> Im planning to change my inline on my spectral AL29 to the Coil IL. Im around 81 kg without gear so I should be around 84 kg with gear. But when I put in the info on cane creek they recommend a 450 spring. I have 130 mm rear travel (190x50)


27,5 and 29 no same leverage ratio. For me CC Spring calculator fit perfectly (only 0,5-1 more turn preload)


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## Johnbgmcl (Jun 20, 2016)

trailwerks, how are you liking this coil on your smuggler. I am thinking about the same for mine. Also how much travel up front do you have? Sick looking bike!


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## enjoi525 (Oct 11, 2013)

Anyone have a comparison of the inline coil vs double barrel coil?


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

I doubt you would be able to tell any difference


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I have ordered a CCDB coil iL now, it was backorder so I have time to decide about the spring. 

should I go for the Valt spring right away or something else?


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## trailwerks (Aug 24, 2007)

Johnbgmcl said:


> trailwerks, how are you liking this coil on your smuggler. I am thinking about the same for mine. Also how much travel up front do you have? Sick looking bike!


Hey there. Didn't see the reply come in. I'm loving it. Soooo smooth. It climbs very well with the climb switch engaged with great traction. One thing I have noticed is the playfulness really changes with the climb switch in. I have to remember to shut off on downhills and fun sections or the bike doesn't pop up like I'm used to.

In the open mode down hill and playing around it is awesome. I still haven't spent much time adjusting the settings. Will probably try a 550 spring. I'm 225-230 with gear.

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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

sohl said:


> I have ordered a CCDB coil iL now, it was backorder so I have time to decide about the spring.
> 
> should I go for the Valt spring right away or something else?


Depends on the length you're working with. I at one point found a document posting the weight savings of the Valt over the regular springs and for the 2.25 lengths it was only around 50 grams. Not worth the difference in price for me in my case. For longer ones the difference was significant and totally worth it.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Depends on the length also you mogjt want to try the standard spring first just to make sure it's the correct one.


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## zhendo (Aug 31, 2011)

Those of you struggling with getting the coil to feel as playful as your older air shocks may want to play with the HSR. I had a CCDB Air CS that felt very, very dead on my old Spitfire, and a couple of calls to Cane Creek ultimately revealed that backing off the HSR damping made the biggest difference. Just a tip!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Does anyone know how much lighter a Valt Spring really is for a specific length and weight? I just picked up a Inline Coil for my Endorphin, and have the regular 2.25x500lb spring. CC says WEIGHT SAVING 50-211g (varies by stroke/rate), which is pretty vague. Definitely not worth it for 50g.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

58g apparently


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

You know I ordered a 2.25x500 standard steel CC spring from Jenson and they sent me a 2.50x500 instead. The package clearly says 2.25x500 but when I unwrapped it the spring had 2.50x500 written on it. The 2.50x500 is significantly larger than the 2.25x4.50 I also ordered. It's a much longer and heavier spring. I can't fit it between the collars. The free length is way too long. Jenson was cool about it and I called them and explained the issue and they sent me a new one overnight. When I got the new spring it was the same thing, 2.50x500. I don't know if it's an error with Jenson's stock or what CC sent them. The 450 is working for me so I just haven't bothered to do anything else about it.


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Has been following this thread. I am ready about to pull the trigger on the dbcoil il, but just wanted to know if anyone here setup under yeti SB5C? Would to hear from you on your experience. 


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

what coil are you running. waiting for my shock and have looked both on the cane creek VALT spring and some titanium springs. what do you all recommend!?


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

450lb CC steel - would save 170g going Valt (2.5ich)


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I need a 2,25x450Ib spring and have looked at the VALT spring and a titanium spring from to-springs.com. there race titan spring looks nice, but it is 175 pund! wonder how much lighter its compared to the valt!


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

The 2.0x450 Valt is ~280grams.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

AlienRFX said:


> Anyone get a chirping noise from the Coil IL?


I am and it's driving me freaking crazy!!!! I've taken the coil off and put a different one on and still there. Rode it one ride and it went away about half way through then returned the next ride. Washed my bike and gone, only to return a couple days later. It sounds like rubber sliding against metal with a squeak or chirp. It doesn't happen though during a rapid compression and seems to happen on the rebound when it does happen. I've tried to to make sure the coil is on right and even called cane creek with no clear answer. Next step is to send it in I guess.

Anyone experience this? Please help!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

no noise at all - is this with the CS on or off?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

POAH said:


> no noise at all - is this with the CS on or off?


Thanks for the response!

It's with both on and off and is only on the rebound not compression. I took it off and took off the coil to just cycle the shock and I can hear it just a bit but not near as loud so I can't tell if that's it or not for sure. It's more towards the top of the stroke and when I bounce up and down quickly on the suspension. No noise on like a drop or big hit.

I thought maybe it was the coil rubbing so I've taken it off and reninstalled several times and used just a regular cane creek coil and a valt, same noise. Thought maybe it wasn't preloaded enough, with 2.5 turns on 500 spring, so cranked it up to 4.5 turns just to see and same noise. It's baffling, and I can't figure it out. It started after my 4th ride on it as the frame and shock are brand new with only maybe seven rides total on both.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

turn the rebound to 0 and see if you get the noise. could just be the oil going through the valves.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

POAH said:


> turn the rebound to 0 and see if you get the noise. could just be the oil going through the valves.


Ok I'll give it a shot. I don't think that's it, or if it is it shouldn't make that much noise, but I'll give it a shot anyway to see if maybe that narrows it down.

I love the shock other than the noise, and it doesn't really seem to effect the performance.

Just sounds like I'm riding with a canary in my pocket and terribly annoying.


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## TerryLM (Jan 14, 2006)

CogHog said:


> Ok I'll give it a shot. I don't think that's it, or if it is it shouldn't make that much noise, but I'll give it a shot anyway to see if maybe that narrows it down.
> 
> I love the shock other than the noise, and it doesn't really seem to effect the performance.
> 
> Just sounds like I'm riding with a canary in my pocket and terribly annoying.


Mine started doing it two weeks ago. It only seem to do it when I first start pedaling. If I give the rear end of the bike a quick hop it goes away until I stop and start pedaling again.

Then on my last ride on Tuesday it was doing it again and when I went to hop the shock made a clank noise when the shock fully extended. I got off and pushed down on the rear to cycle the shock and it now clanks every time it fully extends. I went through my linage and made sure everything was tight. I removed the shock and the coil and reinstalled and the clank is still there.

I have had the shock for 7 months with 270 miles on it. I'm going to give Cane Creek a call today.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

TerryLM said:


> Mine started doing it two weeks ago. It only seem to do it when I first start pedaling. If I give the rear end of the bike a quick hop it goes away until I stop and start pedaling again.
> 
> Then on my last ride on Tuesday it was doing it again and when I went to hop the shock made a clank noise when the shock fully extended. I got off and pushed down on the rear to cycle the shock and it now clanks every time it fully extends. I went through my linage and made sure everything was tight. I removed the shock and the coil and reinstalled and the clank is still there.
> 
> I have had the shock for 7 months with 270 miles on it. I'm going to give Cane Creek a call today.


Man I hope this isn't going to be a recurring issue. I still haven't figured out why mine is making the noise. I took a shot on this shock, despite the terrible problems others had with the original inline air shock, hope I don't regret it.

Please let me know what they say.

Thanks!


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So just kind of an update. Took my bike in the backyard and just kida played around chasing the kids around the yard, riding wheelies, and just generally screwing around. About 10 minutes in the chirping almost entirely went away. You could still hear a very slight sound at the very top of the stroke but nothing like it was and honestly something I could totally live with as there's no way I'd hear it on the trail. 

So anyways it now has me wondering if maybe it's the coil rubbing on something or if maybe once the shock gets warmed up and the oil warm it makes it stop. My shock is still very new and still in the break in process so I guess it's plausible things are still kinda settling in. I dunno. 

Guess I'm gonna keep riding it and monitor then go from there. I've got vacation coming up mid June so if I'm still having issues I'll prob send it in to CC and let them check it over since I'll be out of town anyways to minimize time off the bike. 

Still interested to hear what they tell you though about yours. 

Thanks!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Are you running the valt or standard steel spring. I've got standard steel on a 216x63 shock


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

I'm running a standard CC 500 lb. steel spring on a knolly endorphin. But I tried the 450lb. valt that it came with and it was still making the noise with it as well.

Running 2.5 turns of preload on the 500.


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## David R (Dec 21, 2007)

How much do you weigh CogHog? (if ya don't mind me asking!!)

I'd like to try the coil on my Endorphin (27.5) but at 96kg/210lb geared up I'm at the heavier end of the recommended weight for the heaviest 500# spring. CC's calculator said I should be on a 550# at that weight but as best I can tell they don't make one in the right size for the Endo, not sure what's available after-market.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

I'm actually your exact weight, 210lb., and am currently on a regular, non valt, 500# cane creek spring that works pretty decent honestly. Cane creek recommends 3 turns of preload for 30 percent sag but I'm running 2.5 turns for around 32 percent sag and haven't bottomed out yet. That said I'm not hitting ten foot drops to flat but hit 3 and 4 footers on pretty regular occurrence on my trails without a sign of bottoming out. 

Cane creek does make a regular 2.0x550lb. steel spring that I actually just ordered last night from universal cycles to try out as well. I would have done it earlier but they just got back in stock. When Knolly's sight says CC Springs only go to 500 they're talking about the lightweight valt springs not the regular steel ones and honestly the weight savings for a valt in 2.0 isn't worth it, which I even confirmed with CC. My 450 valt only weighs 35 grams less than my 500 steel so the difference between a 500 valt would be even less. I'd bet prob about the same difference between a 500 valt and 550 steel so I'm not worried about it. 35 grams is like .07 pounds which is so minimal it's not even worth thinking about and I'm hoping a 550# will give me a better spring rate to even further maximize small bump sensitivity with less preload. The 500 isn't bad, it's actually been quite good, but the steel spring is only $31 with shipping so worth it to give 550 a shot and make sure the shock's spring rate is as close to optimal as possible.


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## David R (Dec 21, 2007)

Awesome, thanks for that!!

I must have only been looking at the Valt springs on CC's website, good to see the springs are so cheap. I'll be interested to hear how you find the 550# spring, but I've heard nothing but praise for the shock so far so I guess I should really just bite the bullet.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Man I love it! 

I'm currently trying to sort through a squeak on it but I'm thinking more and more it's the coil rubbing or something as it's not effecting performance and only at the very top of the stroke. I wouldn't let that sway you though since CC customer service is great and they've already said I can send it in under warranty and they'll check it out no prob. 

If it persists I prob will when I go on vacation but right now I'm not sweating it. I love the shock, especially on the endorphin. That plus the 160mm fork I'm running up front make it so capable and fun everywhere on the trails!


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## Nordic09 (Apr 11, 2009)

In the cane creek air shock, excess chirping noise means that there are air bubbles in the damping oil, which there shouldn't be. At the same time the damping characteristics will be going south, if this is the case.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

David R said:


> How much do you weigh CogHog? (if ya don't mind me asking!!)
> 
> I'd like to try the coil on my Endorphin (27.5) but at 96kg/210lb geared up I'm at the heavier end of the recommended weight for the heaviest 500# spring. CC's calculator said I should be on a 550# at that weight but as best I can tell they don't make one in the right size for the Endo, not sure what's available after-market.


Tuned in.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Do you know if it would go away during a ride? 

Mine actually goes away about 30-45 minutes into the ride sometimes. And it's only at the very top of the stroke. Once into a high speed compression it doesn't do it.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

A stupit question, if a have a 190x50 mm shock, should I have a 2X xxx coil in that case?!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

you should have a 2 inch stroke shock in it from CC.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

POAH said:


> you should have a 2 inch stroke shock in it from CC.


thanks.

so a 2x450 or 2x500 depending on my current weight if I read the spring calculator right


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Yeah that's correct. I'm running a 2x550 but was running a 2x500. For everyone wondering about spring rate, on a knolly endorphin at least, I just switched to a 550 from a 500 and the small bump is vastly improved. It wasn't bad before but it's butter now. I'm only having to run 1 turn of preload on it at 210lbs. and it still gives a nice supportive feeling whereas I had to run 2.5 to 2.75 turns with the 500. I've only got one ride on it but I did manage to case a 4ft. drop on it and barely felt it. Like it didn't even feel like I cased it but I know it did because of where I landed. Anyway point is def worth playing around with different spring rates. Also I have a 450lb. valt spring I don't need I'd let go for cheap if anyone is interested. It's 2x450.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

ok. 
that was my other question I had. 

How much preload is good? 1-2-3 turn deepening on different springs. 

I weight in around 187 ibs with gear and if I use 1 turn of preload it recommend 550 and 500 with 2 turns! this is if I use Trail (28%), those times I will bike in a bike park a might want it a little softer right around 30%.. In that case i probably need a 500 spring but otherwise I need a 550!


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## stereo007 (Jan 14, 2017)

sohl said:


> ok.
> that was my other question I had.
> 
> How much preload is good? 1-2-3 turn deepening on different springs.


Get the correct spring rate and keep minimum preload turns (usually 1 turn). This will improve small bump sensitivity. Less preload = less force needed to start compressing the spring.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

ok. 
with 1 turn preload I get 530 ibs so its recommend 550, but that can be a little stiff! In worst case I have to get one of each and try.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

Cane creek doest have the valt in 2,00x550!


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Not worth the extra cash for a valt in 2 inch stroke anyways. Trust me I've weighed them, like 30 grams difference between valt and steel in 2.0. Just get a regular steel CC 2x550 and rock on. I got mine from universal cycles for $27 before shipping.


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## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

I don't have the canary chirp, but does anyone have a mechanical sounding "clunk"? I have one about 10% into the stroke - it is really obnoxious but does not seem to affect performance. Standing next to the bike, you can hear it. Holding on to the spring, yo can feel it actually move.

Valt spring, 2.25x450 on a Spitfire. 2-3 turns of preload (but also happens with like 6, I've tested!). The reason I think it's mechanical, and possibly related to the upper or lower spring seats is because it starts after a fresh install in about 3 rides. I remove the spring, reinstall, and presto, clunk is gone.

I have the notch in the lower spring seat 180° from the lip of the spring. You don't grease either spring seat do you?

Any ideas? Anyone else?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Lithified said:


> I don't have the canary chirp, but does anyone have a mechanical sounding "clunk"? I have one about 10% into the stroke - it is really obnoxious but does not seem to affect performance. Standing next to the bike, you can hear it. Holding on to the spring, yo can feel it actually move.
> 
> Valt spring, 2.25x450 on a Spitfire. 2-3 turns of preload (but also happens with like 6, I've tested!). The reason I think it's mechanical, and possibly related to the upper or lower spring seats is because it starts after a fresh install in about 3 rides. I remove the spring, reinstall, and presto, clunk is gone.
> 
> ...


I had some weird clicking type noises and turned out to be the spring.

I flipped the spring upside down and it fixed it. Might try that or twisting the spring into a new position.


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## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

CogHog said:


> I had some weird clicking type noises and turned out to be the spring.
> 
> I flipped the spring upside down and it fixed it. Might try that or twisting the spring into a new position.


Interesting. If it comes back I'll try flipping the spring.


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## zhendo (Aug 31, 2011)

Coils can make some funny noises in the spring seat, especially if you're running super light, or super heavy preload. I've found that 1-2 turns of preload tends to be problem-free on most coils.

Another thing that can happen is rotation of the spring while you're riding. A coil spring will twist slightly as it compresses, and if the spring suddenly twists a little bit against the spring seat, you can get noise. A few brands make "thrust bearings" that can be installed at one end of the spring to allow it to twist a bit. Not necessary, but I've seen lots of people using them with good success. It's especially noticeable on DH bikes with super long shocks.


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## tonyt73 (Aug 18, 2013)

*I love my Coil!*

Just upgraded my Santa Cruz Solo/5010 to a inline coil and man o man is it awesome.
Such sweet smooth supple suspension.

Kronos 600lbs Titanium spring


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

That 600lbs Ti Coil weighs just about the same as the 450lbsx2 Valt spring:


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## zhendo (Aug 31, 2011)

Owner update for the CCDB Coil IL on a Knolly Warden Carbon.

First off, the shock feels great. Excellent control out of the box, and while I'm still zoning in on a final tune, I'm getting closer.

Now for the not-so-great news. I noticed that my shock, like some others mentioned above, was making an odd clicking-type noise about 10% into the stroke on my 2nd ride. This was especially prolific with the Climb Switch on, presumably because the shock is riding higher in its travel.

Out on the trail yesterday, it was quite noticeable on the climb up, so I hopped off the bike and cycled the suspension while closely watching the shock. I quickly noticed that the shock shaft was shifting out of alignment with the shock body when entering the stroke, almost like the shock is "buckling" at the seal head. This almost certainly means that the shock will fail very soon due to a bad bushing at the seal head.

I called a local shop that I trust and the guy was not surprised - he mentioned that Cane Creek has had issues with bushing depth on shocks in the past. However, when I mentioned that it was a brand new DB Coil IL, he did seem surprised, as Cane Creek supposedly addressed this issue a while back.

I'm hopefully getting on the phone with Cane Creek today to discuss options for repair, but I'm hoping it works out quickly as I'm a bike instructor and can't take much time off the bike without a shock.


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## zhendo (Aug 31, 2011)

Update: got on the phone with Cane Creek. The customer service agent is giving me expedited service, and apparently this is an issue that has cropped up on a couple of shocks. He said it comes down to a QC issue on a particular batch of shocks.

I'm hoping this doesn't become a common issue (doesn't sound like it is), and glad to see that their customer service is so solid.


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## dvd31 (Jul 27, 2014)

Ole said:


> My XC race bike for next year. Decided to try a coil in the rear for the first time in 15 years. No more changing spring rates due to temperature changes or overhating shock. Bike weighs 23lbs with 2.35 Racing Ralph SnakeSkin an 130mm fork.
> 
> View attachment 1098540
> View attachment 1098541
> View attachment 1098542


How do you like the coil on the Primer? What shock did you have before, the stock Fox?
I also have the Primer, now with DB Air IL and playing with the idea to go with a coil


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## Lithified (Apr 14, 2007)

zhendo said:


> Update: got on the phone with Cane Creek. The customer service agent is giving me expedited service, and apparently this is an issue that has cropped up on a couple of shocks. He said it comes down to a QC issue on a particular batch of shocks.
> 
> I'm hoping this doesn't become a common issue (doesn't sound like it is), and glad to see that their customer service is so solid.


Better luck to you than me. They've now had my shock 3 times to address the clunk. Keeps coming back, every time, after about 3 rides. It's mechanical, not in the damper, best I can tell. Something with the spring seat. You can hear the dang thing. Killing me.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Looks like I'm gonna be sending my shock into Cane Creek as well. I'm not getting a clunk, but the chirping is still persistent and driving me mad. I absolutely love the performance of it and the chirp doesn't seem to effect performance but I've got vacation coming up so I'll be off the bike for two weeks anyways. Figure I'll just send it in to make sure there's not something wrong. If I have to live with the chirp, so be it, but figured might as well get them to look it over just to be sure.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

inaxganja said:


> Mine working flawlessly after 5 months of abuse. Mounted on Canyon Spectral 140mm back (very progressive leverage ratio) with needle bearings, and 160mm RS Pike RCT3 front with AWK doble air chamber system. Coming form Inline Air very happy, but Coil is really impressive. When you get the right setup it gives amazing small bump compilance, plenty of traction, big hit support, super consistency, no overheating. Climb Switch works very well also.
> 
> 500lb Spring for 84kg equipped rider, 3.5-4 turns of preload for 17-15mm (30-28%) Sag. Coming from Inline Air, started with same setup and finished adding some high speed compression and rebound damping to counteract the linnear feeling of the coil and give more end-stroke support. HSC: 2.5 - HSR: 3 - LSC: 5 - LSR: 12.
> 
> ...


Thats a beast:thumbsup:. I am looking to do the same to mine, just deciding between IL coil and Air.
So you say spectral has a progressive ratio? should suit that coil well then. no bottom outs? 
down this thread people talk about noises, got any?
What weight did you end up with that spectral ?

Could anyone tell me if it makes a difference if i put a backpack on ? About 2 kg (possibly some water up to 3kg in it), can that difference be handled in preload ? I might be about 85 equipped, but as of now on fox float ctd it makes a difference when i drop the backpack i would need to adjust psi. is it easier adjusted on coil or air ?

thanks,
Roman


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

Anybody finding they lack high speed rebound damping? I have to turn the high speed preload adjuster all the way in when using a 450 spring to prevent bucking after g-outs, no matter how slow I set the low speed rebound. It feels like the poppet valve spring should be stiffer, so I don't have to run as much preload on it. Now the knee is too sharp, giving the rebound a harsh feel.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Ole said:


> Anybody finding they lack high speed rebound damping? I have to turn the high speed preload adjuster all the way in when using a 450 spring to prevent bucking after g-outs, no matter how slow I set the low speed rebound. It feels like the poppet valve spring should be stiffer, so I don't have to run as much preload on it. Now the knee is too sharp, giving the rebound a harsh feel.


Not that this will help, but how much do you weigh and what bike?


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Not that this will help, but how much do you weigh and what bike?


180lbs, 450 spring on an Intense Primer.


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## inaxganja (Aug 8, 2016)

romulin said:


> Thats a beast:thumbsup:. I am looking to do the same to mine, just deciding between IL coil and Air.
> So you say spectral has a progressive ratio? should suit that coil well then. no bottom outs?
> down this thread people talk about noises, got any?
> What weight did you end up with that spectral ?
> ...


Hi Roman:

My ILcoil working perfect after 9 months of abuse in the Spectral. But be careful when choosing the spring because CC spring calculator gives me a soft spring result. I tried the 500lb VALT and it was OK but too much bottom out. Now I'm experimenting with 550lb non VALT and it is same feel but a little bit more support in the end of stroke. And is only 40gr heavier and 100 euro cheaper. So for me the VALT don't worth it.

For your info I'm 85kg equipped, with 4 turns of preload. If I can find a 600lb (impossible online) I'll give it a try for sure.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

inaxganja said:


> Hi Roman:
> 
> My ILcoil working perfect after 9 months of abuse in the Spectral. But be careful when choosing the spring because CC spring calculator gives me a soft spring result. I tried the 500lb VALT and it was OK but too much bottom out. Now I'm experimenting with 550lb non VALT and it is same feel but a little bit more support in the end of stroke. And is only 40gr heavier and 100 euro cheaper. So for me the VALT don't worth it.
> 
> For your info I'm 85kg equipped, with 4 turns of preload. If I can find a 600lb (impossible online) I'll give it a try for sure.


Well 4 turns i enough right ? only thing i found are these ohlins ones with an 571lbs option too. pricey though
Ohlins Race Ready Lightweight Steel Springs 2" stroke - Ohlins - TF Tuned


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Ole said:


> 180lbs, 450 spring on an Intense Primer.


Are you able to dial proper sag with that weight spring?


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## Ole (Feb 22, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Are you able to dial proper sag with that weight spring?


Yes, roughly 30%


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I fitted my db coil Il on my canyon a week ago and have been out 2 times. so far the traction and softness is great! I bought both a 500 and a 550 coil and so far I use the 550 coil with 1-1,25 preload, I get around 16-17mm sag with gear. I lowered the HSC a little because it felt a little hard. 
I use the same setting that I used on my cc inline and so far no problem. 

HSC 1,5
HSR 3
LSC 5
LSR 10

tomorrow I'm going to the bike park and try it, to you change your setting when you go from trail to park? I will maybe go up on the HSC so I don't bottom out so often. 

I also put in a luftkappe in my Pike and I also improved it.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Thats some useful info, also good to see people running this setup. 
I am definitely into that shock, but will probably need a 600 coil (unavailable). 

Also an e-mail to CC got no answer about the spring. 

What your weight pls? 
waiting on your report from park, imo you may need more LSC as big jumps tend to fall into LSC...

i would pair an MRP ribbon with it to justify the weight gain on shock ^^


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I thought that big jumps would affect HSC? 

Im 185 with gear! so Im between 500 and 550 spring. 
otherwise just buy a spring from another company, my plan is to get a titanium spring when I have decided 500 or 550.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

sohl said:


> I thought that big jumps would affect HSC?


Based on some reading i did here, big jumps fall into (mostly) LSC as there is alot of force, but it is applied over a longer time = the speed of your suspension movement is not as high as when the wheel suddenly hitts a big obstacle, be it rock/root/braking hole which makes it to compress very fast which is typically HSC affected. doesent matter how deep into travel you get but how fast your wheel displaces from original/previous position.

well you weigh like me and 550 is enough? (a sighn of hope )
well problem is almost nobody makes 2" springs and a 600 unit is even more rare

here the thread 
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...n-adjustments-what-do-they-affect-431907.html


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

If you're looking for bottom out control HSC is what you wanna tweak. Says it right on CC site.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

HSR is also something you might tweak to control jump takeoffs on relatively smooth, flowy park style jump lines.


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## russmu66 (Nov 11, 2007)

romulin said:


> well you weigh like me and 550 is enough? (a sighn of hope )
> well problem is almost nobody makes 2" springs and a 600 unit is even more rare


They are hard to find. I ordered a 600lb x 2" spring from here

Ti-Springs.com

It's about a 1 month wait for one...mine should be here in about 2 weeks or less.

Cheers
Muz


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I didn't change anything during the day in the park, the shock felt nice all the time. The only thing to maybe change to next time would be to add some HSC and HSR for more support in bigger hits and het more pop. I never bottom out hard so I didn't care today, I don't want to change to much every time I go from trail to park.


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## Nalla (Jul 19, 2009)

I've had my shock for just over a week. 
Loving the feel and sensitivity but am a little concerned regarding the noise.

It makes what can only be described as a squelching noise. Was just wondering if everyone else's is silent or if it makes any sounds on compression.
Cheers


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

with the CS on or off - depending on how the compression and rebound is set, you can hear the oil. this happens in most fork/shocks.


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

I heard sound of air compression, just like my fork when the shock is extended after compress, guess this is normal? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ijak (Jan 5, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> I heard sound of air compression, just like my fork when the shock is extended after compress, guess this is normal?


Subbing - as I am getting my DB Coil IL 450lb x 2.25" in a couple days. Will be installing it on a 2015 Giant Reign.

On the whole chirping noise, i have a feeling it might be the negative charge port as this way what was explained to me when I had this issue on the DB inline. performance wasn't affected by this.

Below is a quote from a Cane creek explanation of of the DB Inline chirp:

"Negative charge port
(small groove that provides a bypass around the main piston a few mm into shock stroke) The negative charge port is very close to the full shock extension so it is relatively far away from the sag point."

Since this is a twin tube design, i would assume there's a negative charge port which is the source of the chirping. It would usually go away when everything is warmed up (seals/oil etc).

My analogy would be whistling:

lips = the air piston seals 
hole you make with lips = negative charge port. 
mouth closed (warm seals/oil) = no whistling (no chirping).


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Its a coil shock so the negative air spring charging is definitely not applicable in this instance.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

They are a noisey damper design. The more air they suck in, the more noise they make.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Dougal said:


> They are a noisey damper design. The more air they suck in, the more noise they make.


that does not sound very good, i suppose it's not onlz noisy but affects performance aswell?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

romulin said:


> that does not sound very good, i suppose it's not onlz noisy but affects performance aswell?


The air affects performance yes. Like all dampers.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Dougal said:


> The air affects performance yes. Like all dampers.


I'm thinking of running an IL on my new Lenz Fatillac fat bike. Any thoughts?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Just got mine back today from cane creek after them having it for almost two weeks and wah, wah, wah chirping noise is still there. 

In fact it doesn't seem any better at all and maybe worse. There was also a clunk that was not there before at hard compression but spinning the coil seemed to finally fix it so think it was mechanical maybe involving the spring seat. 

Anyways I'm honestly not convinced CC really did much to check it at all. The guy I talked to was super cool but it sounded like they were behind and maybe didn't do the normal testing like they should but instead just rebuilt it and sent it back which has not fixed the issue. At this point I'm pretty unimpressed. I love the way the shock feels but this chirping noise is absurd to have to deal with from a brand new shock. I'm gonna contact them again and see where we go from here but my patience is running a bit thin. If we can't fix it then I guess I'll be swapping to a different shock and never purchase another CC product again unless it's a headset, since lately that seems to be all they can get right. 

We'll see, I'll give em another shot but doubt I'll be willing to give many more. 

I'll update later once I talk to them.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

can you video it so we can hear it? does it go away if you reduce the compression/rebound to fully open or get worse if you flick the CS?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Yeah I'll see if I can upload one a little bit later. That's what I'm planning to do with CC too is video it so they can hear it. It actually doesn't seem to effect performance at all and all the rebound/compression adjustments work fine as does the climb switch. If it were just a faint noise I wouldn't even worry about it but it's pretty noticeable and very annoying when pedaling. But once I'm charging on the bike and deeper in the stroke it doesn't make any noise. 

It's maddening....


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Haven't had a chance to video the noise yet but did get a ride in today. Unfortunately it chirped pretty much the whole ride but honestly I didn't care much because it performed great. Like I'm almost at the point of saying screw it and just putting up with the noise because the shock is plain awesome. I dunno though, we'll see what CC says when I talk to them on Monday. I'll work on getting a video up too.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

After been out a couple of times with the coil IL I feel that I get some pedal bob and thinking of trying to add some LSC and LCR. My only fear it that Im going to loose the nice small bump sensitivity I have right now. 
current setting: 
HSC 1,5
HSR 3
LSC 5 (will add 3)
LSR 10 (will add 3)


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

fitted a Valt spring 2.5x450 today. 344g so 192g lighter than the standard CC steel one I have.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So just an update since I talked with CC via email today. I just have to back off my initial frustration a bit since to be honest CC has continued to provide the best customer service I've ever experienced in the bike industry thus far. They offered me a couple options to remedy my issue but the one I chose was for them to build me a new DBCoil IL to replace the one I'm having issues with. I'm gonna continue to ride the one I have in the meantime since the noise isn't effecting the performance so far and then just swap out the new one and send the faulty one back to them, and they're paying for shipping. So for anyone reading this, yes I've experienced some hiccups, but CC customer service is unreal and this shock is pretty darn amazing itself. In fact I think it's ruined me for air shocks since the coil is just so good.


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## alanm (Sep 2, 2009)

Guys,

I'm setting up a Lapierre Overvolt 500 Plus to do a ride down the Great Divide on the East Coast of Australia, a trip of some 5500 Km's. It'll be on a lot of horse trails and I'll be towing a trailer, a Tout Terrain Mule, Because of the remoteness I want to changeout the current Rockshox Monarch RT in favor of a CC DB Coil IL. Thing is, I've found a shock body here in Aus but I can't find a 2.25 / 600 Lb spring. Any tips where I could get a spring or a whole unit at a reasonable price for that matter, with reasonable shipping, either in the US or elsewhere? I've looked around on the net but haven't had much luck.
Ta. Al.


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## russmu66 (Nov 11, 2007)

alanm said:


> Guys,
> 
> I'm setting up a Lapierre Overvolt 500 Plus to do a ride down the Great Divide on the East Coast of Australia, a trip of some 5500 Km's. It'll be on a lot of horse trails and I'll be towing a trailer, a Tout Terrain Mule, Because of the remoteness I want to changeout the current Rockshox Monarch RT in favor of a CC DB Coil IL. Thing is, I've found a shock body here in Aus but I can't find a 2.25 / 600 Lb spring. Any tips where I could get a spring or a whole unit at a reasonable price for that matter, with reasonable shipping, either in the US or elsewhere? I've looked around on the net but haven't had much luck.
> Ta. Al.


Hi Al.
You sure it's a 2.25" spring... I had an Overvolt AM500+, and I'm pretty sure it was a 2.00" spring...happy to be corrected though. I also require a 600 lb spring and ended up ordering from ti-springs.com. I searched for an off-the-shelf solution unsuccessfully everywhere...ended up having to suck it up and order and wait the 5 or 6 weeks for the ti-springs one. Expecting it to arrive any day now. Where are you based mate? I'm on the Sunshine Coast, Qld.
Cheers Muz


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## alanm (Sep 2, 2009)

russmu66 said:


> Hi Al.
> You sure it's a 2.25" spring... I had an Overvolt AM500+, and I'm pretty sure it was a 2.00" spring...happy to be corrected though. I also require a 600 lb spring and ended up ordering from ti-springs.com. I searched for an off-the-shelf solution unsuccessfully everywhere...ended up having to suck it up and order and wait the 5 or 6 weeks for the ti-springs one. Expecting it to arrive any day now. Where are you based mate? I'm on the Sunshine Coast, Qld.
> Cheers Muz


Hey Muz,

Thanks for the reply and contact for the spring. Mate the existing shock is a 2" barrel but I reckon there's enough room to fit a 2.25 spring in there. What I might do is get one of the guys on here to chime in with external diameter measurements, I've never seen one in the flesh and as I live in rural WA, I'm not likely to!!!! Man, if I have to wait 5-6 weeks that's going to be a bummer, I wanna be outa here and on the track by mid August at the latest. I'm going to have a crack at the BNT, starting up at Cooktown. Twist is, I'm going to try and ride it complete, even the knarly bits in NSW & Vic that they reckon can't be ridden! Using a peddle assist might be cheating a bit but at nearly 57 Yo, I really don't give a toss!!!! 

AL.
PS. I was on the Goldcoast, got a sister and a mate there, a few months back, flew over, picked up a road / trail motorbike and rode back to Perth out through the SW of QLD into SA etc.


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

The 2.25 sprig should fit just fine, as the shock body is the same for 200x50 & 200x57 versions. Only difference is a travel reducer below the bumper.


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## alanm (Sep 2, 2009)

mikericci said:


> The 2.25 sprig should fit just fine, as the shock body is the same for 200x50 & 200x57 versions. Only difference is a travel reducer below the bumper.


Thanks for that mate. I chatted to a mob in Queensland today, NSDynamics, and they're going to get it sorted for me, which I'm chirpy about. I'll post it up here when it's done and dusted.

Al.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

So i placed an order at TFtuned yesterday. They also disassemble and reassemble the shock, check for proper installation, check fluids and dyno test it before sending it to you and its like 90 € cheaper than here in Germany. so I hope its gonna work fine. 
Anyway nice to hear that CC does their customer service well, but i think other brands don't cause their products work w/o problems after 3 years even.. 
Anyways fingers croosed for this one as it seems a badass shock !

Didn't want to spend over 100 for first coil in TI so got a 550 steel to test it out.

Sohl: maybe do a compromise and only add 1.5 to lsc? lower the bob but dont looose all the small bump?


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

romulin said:


> So i placed an order at TFtuned yesterday. They also disassemble and reassemble the shock, check for proper installation, check fluids and dyno test it before sending it to you and its like 90 € cheaper than here in Germany. so I hope its gonna work fine.
> Anyway nice to hear that CC does their customer service well, but i think other brands don't cause their products work w/o problems after 3 years even..
> Anyways fingers croosed for this one as it seems a badass shock !
> 
> ...


I added 3 clicks if lsc and lsr, But after 30 min of biking I thought it was a little hard so I lower it 2 clicks on Both and now it feel better. So in the end I added 1 Clock of lsc/lsr.

I Did the same with the spring! Ordered a 500 and 550 spring in steel to decide witch i need! 550 seems Right for me when I have around 1-1,5 turn preload I get 15-17 mm sag! So around 30 %


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

LSC shouldn't really affect much small bump


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

POAH said:


> LSC shouldn't really affect much small bump


???? Lots of small bumps are at low shaft speeds.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Jayem said:


> ???? Lots of small bumps are at low shaft speeds.


maybe the way you ride


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Figured I'd throw up my settings in case anyone needs comparisons. This is where I'm at now but it's been changing a lot since I'm not 100% yet. 

Rider Weight- 210lbs. 
Bike- Knolly endorphin 27.5
Spring- 550 lbs. 
Preload- 1.5 turns 
LSC- 2-4 clicks 
LSR- 10-11 clicks 
HSC- 2-2.25 turns
HSR- 2.75 turns
Sag- 31-32% 

Those are my settings as of now. I'm still kinda tweaking it a bit trying to find that perfect mix but I'm pretty close with those settings. Maybe that'll help someone in the future.


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## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Ole said:


> Steel at the moment, waiting for Beta C Ti from Lite-Springs.


Did you ever get your spring from them? I ordered one in April, still don't have it.


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

CogHog said:


> So just an update since I talked with CC via email today. I just have to back off my initial frustration a bit since to be honest CC has continued to provide the best customer service I've ever experienced in the bike industry thus far. They offered me a couple options to remedy my issue but the one I chose was for them to build me a new DBCoil IL to replace the one I'm having issues with. I'm gonna continue to ride the one I have in the meantime since the noise isn't effecting the performance so far and then just swap out the new one and send the faulty one back to them, and they're paying for shipping. So for anyone reading this, yes I've experienced some hiccups, but CC customer service is unreal and this shock is pretty darn amazing itself. In fact I think it's ruined me for air shocks since the coil is just so good.


I'm very glad I found this page as I had purchased a Double Barrel Coil IL back in March of this year and have had some interesting problems with it(them), and thought I was forever alone lol. Come to find there are useful results past the 1st page of Google haha.

First off, a little history; The bike I'm running this damper on is a 2014 Intense Tracer 275. Purchased back in March, and within the first couple of rides it developed a hard knocking sound/feeling with the CS engaged. At first I reached out to Cane Creek to see if this was part of the damper's designed characteristics and if it was that would've been that and I would've just dealt with it because the damper rides pretty good (far better than air) , here is their reply: ", sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for buying a coil shock from us! A few things to check- first make sure all of your hardware is tight, and also check to make sure the spring is oriented properly- we want the end of the spring to be oriented opposite of the cutout on the spring clip. If those things are good, then I think it might be the oil pushing the poppit valve open and breaking into the high speed circuit- which can happen when there's enough force and CS is on, and is supposed to happen. Is it happening under a lot of force when CS is on, or does it always happen when CS is on no matter the force? If it's only happening under a lot of force then there's probably nothing to worry about, if it's always happening, or if it starts to get worse definitely let us know and we might send you an RA to have us check it out. Keep an eye of performance as well- if that gets worse let us know. Hope that helps hit us back with any questions." I then recorded a video (



) and emailed it back to them so they could see/hear first hand what exactly I was dealing with. Upon watching the video, they promptly emailed me back with a RMA# and UPS 3 Day label to send the damper straight to them, also telling me to not ride the damper any longer until they could sort the issue. I sent the damper to them and patiently waited for the rebuilt unit to return.

2 weeks later I received my rebuilt damper and promptly fixed it back to the Tracer and went out to test it. It worked well for the first 10 minutes and immediately began knocking again, I emailed Cane Creek and let them know about the noise again to which they replied, " I'm super sorry and super bummed to hear about this. There is one more thing I'd ask you to check. Intense had a linkage that was contacting the bottom end eye and was causing a knocking noise and a clear indicator of that was scarring on the bottom of the end eye. I've attached a photo to show you what that looks like. If you don't mind checking your shock to see if the bottom end eye has scarring like in the photo. If this is the case we've been told that Intense is supposed to supply their customers with the updated linkage. I'm sorry I didn't mention this the first go around- I was just made aware of this situation. However if this is not the case I'm going to send you an overnight call tag to get that shock back here and into an engineer's hands to be rebuilt or replaced accordingly. Apologies again, let me know" I removed the damper again and inspected the spots they asked me to check and found no damage to the lower eyelet. I emailed them back with my findings(or lack thereof) and they proceeded with round 2 (RMA#,UPS Label, Etc)..

Approx. 3 weeks go by and no word from CC about the condition of the damper or the proposed remedy. I contacted them back and inquired about the situation to which I received, "InsertNameHere, the shock is still with our engineering dept, but we will be sending you a brand new Coil IL. However we are out of parts to build a new Coil IL in the size you need for a couple weeks. What I can do for you in the time being is send you a brand new loaner Inline in 200/57mm that has the updated internals we've made as of October of last year. That shock should leave our facility today. I'll also be sending you the hardware that came installed with your original Coil IL, but our CC hardware (24x6mm and 30x6mm) will be installed in the loaner shock. Once your new Coil IL is ready to ship out I'll be sending along with that a call tag for the loaner. I'd ask you to keep the CC hardware that will come with the loaner and then you can decide whether to run the CC hardware or the other hardware in the new Coil IL once you get it. I apologize once again and I appreciate your patience with us. Thanks " I wasn't really thrilled with the response so I decided to give them a call and talk with someone. When I called, I was pleasantly surprised that the person I'd been emailing w/ (Colin @ Cane Creek) had picked up the phone. I spoke with him about the situation and he assured me that their engineering dept. was doing everything they could to isolate the cause of the noise. I explained to him that I was very curious as to what the issue is that causes the low speed circuits to behave the way they do when I have the CS engaged and that I was more interested in the cause/failure than I was them just sending me another damper for shits/giggles and it do the same thing.

A week after the phone call I received the DBInline damper and fixed it to my bike. I immediately thought, "this feels like ****". I tested the damper in the same fashion as my previously failed Coil IL and to my surprise it behaved flawlessly(Minus a few faint squeeks). I decided to record a video of the DBInline with the CS engaged/disengaged to show as an example compared to the Coil IL: 




Another week goes by and I receive word that they have received all the parts necessary to build and send me a "brand new Double Barrel Coil IL". I received the damper about 4 business days after the email and, again, fixed it to the Tracer and immediately went out for testing. A flawless 30 minutes, and the brand new damper begins to behave in the exact same fashion. I record another video to demonstrate and email CC back to ask as politely as I can, WTF?!: 




And another to sum everything up to this point up:





That's basically where I'm at at this point in time. Also, I haven't been completely without, I also own a 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad 3 and have a Push 11/6 bolted to it, I understand that the differences between the shock's internal architecture are completely different in the way that they achieve the same goal for me (climbing), and that the IL utilizes a spool valve to "tune" the low speed circuits vs the completely separate compression valve of the 11/6 but it's still a $500-600 damper package with the OPT Remote and all the other doodads like Valt springs and whatnot. I know it's cheaper, but that's like a front set of Bilsteins for my STI.. They assure me that their QA/QC is far above what it was before, and honestly, that's what pulled me in for this coil purchase. I fell in love with the coil feel after the 11/6 but didn't want to shell out another mortgage payment for the same shock also. This is my first experience with their dampers and I have to say, I'm very unimpressed. However, their customer support has been spectacular. BUT, you can be as cool as any cucumber, that doesn't make me feel great about dropping serious cash on a damper that leaves me with very little confidence on reliability/longevity. I hope this feedback helps with anyone interested in this coil, BE WARNED, unless you have another bike and don't mind being a test pig for the big corp. (I do mind, just not worth losing sleep over :/)

/rant


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

I think u are not alone here. After reading your post, I went and try on mine, it's a yeti SB5C anyway, I am having the exact same knocking sound when turn on the lock switch! The knocking sound went away when the lock switch is off.

Seems a lot is having this issue instead of isolated cases. Perhaps all ppl here who had bought the dbcoil il should try if the knocking sound is there and send the collective complaint to cane creek


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## inaxganja (Aug 8, 2016)

I have 500lb 2.0x500lb VALT spring. Used 3 times, like brand new. 60 euro + shipping.

If someone is interested please contact me via email. 

Thanks in advance


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## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Keithyk said:


> I think u are not alone here. After reading your post, I went and try on mine, it's a yeti SB5C anyway, I am having the exact same knocking sound when turn on the lock switch! The knocking sound went away when the lock switch is off.
> 
> Seems a lot is having this issue instead of isolated cases. Perhaps all ppl here who had bought the dbcoil il should try if the knocking sound is there and send the collective complaint to cane creek
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have two of them, one on my 130mm trail bike and one on my 190mm dh bike, neither make any weird noises and both are stupid lightweight for a coil shock.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Mine did it, I turned the spring and added a bit of preload and it went away


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> I think u are not alone here. After reading your post, I went and try on mine, it's a yeti SB5C anyway, I am having the exact same knocking sound when turn on the lock switch! The knocking sound went away when the lock switch is off.
> 
> Seems a lot is having this issue instead of isolated cases. Perhaps all ppl here who had bought the dbcoil il should try if the knocking sound is there and send the collective complaint to cane creek
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah maybe those who have this damper should take a look and check it out. It's weird, it doesn't seem to affect performance but it can definitely be felt in the trail. I've also added a boatload of pre-load and turned to spring against the seat in 360* positions with no change. CC themselves also admit it's not normal, but can't seem to find the fix. Hopefully they do, as again I'm already 2 dampers in including a factory rebuild on the original. It's a very impressive damper, when it performs without issue!

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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

Cycle_Sauce said:


> Yeah maybe those who have this damper should take a look and check it out. If it bothers you enough I'd say contact CC and let them know. If enough people are experiencing this issue maybe it'll put their feet to the fire on finding a definite fix. It's weird, though, it doesn't seem to affect performance but it can definitely be felt on the trail. I've also added a boatload of pre-load and turned to spring against the seat in 360* positions with no change. CC themselves also admit it's not normal, but can't seem to find the fix. Hopefully they do, as again I'm already 2 dampers in including a factory rebuild on the original. It's a very impressive damper, when it performs without issue!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

I'm currently still waiting on my new shock to be built and sent to me. I'm hoping like crazy I don't have issues with it since I only have one bike and quite frankly don't have the time nor patience to deal with any more issues out of it. I've never experienced issues with any other shock but this one and given how bad things went with the original inline I'm not sure Cane Creek can handle a lot more bad PR regarding their products. If this keeps up could be the kiss of death for their company despite their good CS, since in the end the product functioning properly is all that matters. We'll see, hopefully it works out.


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Exactly! I love the shock very much, but it's quite annoying with this knocking sound. I am arranging for warranty claim as well. Hopefully this is resolved 

Luckily I still have a Fox X to spare in the meantime 


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cycle_Sauce said:


> ...I haven't been completely without, I also own a 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad 3 and have a Push 11/6 bolted to it...I fell in love with the coil feel after the 11/6 but didn't want to shell out another mortgage payment for the same shock also...


Oh crap. I had a feeling I should not have read your post...

Must. Resist.


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Have sent canecreek 2 emails to inform them the issue and warranty claim arrangement but still have no respond from them at all. Not sure why you guys are saying their service is outstanding. Are they selectively only serve the local better then the international buyer perhaps


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## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

Keithyk said:


> Have sent canecreek 2 emails to inform them the issue and warranty claim arrangement but still have no respond from them at all. Not sure why you guys are saying their service is outstanding. Are they selectively only serve the local better then the international buyer perhaps
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try giving them a call on the phone?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Yeah I called them first myself to get the ball rolling.


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

+1 on the phone call. They didn't reply to my emails at first either, after initial contact via phone it got the ball rolling. It's also just back from the holiday, no excuses, but they could be short staffed due to personnel taking leave. 


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So checked my shock today with climb switch on and I've got the knock too. So I've got this God awful chirp that freaking never goes away AND the clunk with climb switch on. I'm thinking I may have gotten the shock they made the day after a drunken New Year's Eve bash or something. It's a freaking lemon!


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Gotten the reply from Canecreek below

Quote
I have discussed this issue with our product engineers. We are continuing to investigate, test, and evaluate shocks to learn more about the sound.
Apparently, we have a small percentage of Coil IL rear shocks that have made this sound you are hearing. 
I have been informed that there is no functional or performance issue related to the sound. So, do not worry and the shock is safe to ride.
Unquote

Seems they do not have the solution for this and also never offer me to send it back for checking. Expecting us to go ride with knocking sound!

The problem is I can feel the vibration on the cockpit and grip as well for each knocking that happen. It's certainly not a good way to ride!

I am replying them and insist to at least check or replace the faulty shock


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> Gotten the reply from Canecreek below
> 
> Quote
> I have discussed this issue with our product engineers. We are continuing to investigate, test, and evaluate shocks to learn more about the sound.
> ...


I honestly don't think a replacement will do you any good. Unless they've updated the internals, it'll most likely just keep doing the same thing. As stated before, I've been sent a new damper and it's just doing the same thing. Regardless of what they've told you, as a customer I have to believe that it's not normal since they've admitted fault simply by taking the original damper back, rebuilding it, then sending me a new unit only to keep doing the same thing. I hope it gets resolved, they really don't need any more bad press.

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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

CogHog said:


> So checked my shock today with climb switch on and I've got the knock too. So I've got this God awful chirp that freaking never goes away AND the clunk with climb switch on. I'm thinking I may have gotten the shock they made the day after a drunken New Year's Eve bash or something. It's a freaking lemon!


Welp, @ least you aren't alone!

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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

well mine has stopped making the clunk noise when the CS is on and it didn't come back when I swapped to a VALT spring


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

POAH said:


> well mine has stopped making the clunk noise when the CS is on and it didn't come back when I swapped to a VALT spring


Lucky guy ?

Well a lot of new posts wit this problem came up after i pulled the trigger on this one. 
Fingers crossed, also hoping that CC will finally at least find out what the problem is, if can't be that hard

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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Me and my big mouth, noticed the clunking today when I was bouncing about on the bike. I'll investigate later


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## opienor (Apr 2, 2009)

*One more clunker...*

Hi guys!

I have had the Coil IL on my 2015 Intense Tracer T275C for a few months now and have the exact same clunk when the CS is engaged. As you all have reported it doesn´t seem to affect performance at all. More like a psychological torture
What´s interesting is I have found the clunk to be just as easily reproduced both at high and low shaft speeds with the CS engaged. Leaning on the seat compressing the shock and then very slowly letting go gives the same clunk just after it starts to extend. Maybe this indicates that it´s coming from either the low speed valves themselves or the CS valve. It definitely seems to me it´s an internal problem.


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Gotten a reply from Cane Creek, I was told that they are aware of the clunking sound and is still investigating the root cause. I was given an option to either exchange it with a dbcoil CS or dbair IL. Or I wait for their solution and continue to ride with the dbcoil IL. I was assure that it is safe to ride and will not affect the performance.
Well, the reason I am getting the DBCoil IL is due to its weight and adjustability. So guess I am staying put and keep my fingers crossed that Cane Creek will solve this asap.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> Gotten a reply from Cane Creek, I was told that they are aware of the clunking sound and is still investigating the root cause. I was given an option to either exchange it with a dbcoil CS or dbair IL. Or I wait for their solution and continue to ride with the dbcoil IL. I was assure that it is safe to ride and will not affect the performance.
> Well, the reason I am getting the DBCoil IL is due to its weight and adjustability. So guess I am staying put and keep my fingers crossed that Cane Creek will solve this asap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well not that they don't give you any good options but the most reasonable one would be to give money back. As for any other product that you buy, which does not work properly and is under warranty. If course they don't want to unleash the storm but it's either working or not.

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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Can't feel it without the cs on. If I push down very slowly you can feel it either but at any sort of speed you get the clunck at the end point of the stroke. I've not tried turning the LSC/LSR up without the CS to see if I can replicated it. I blasted down a trail today with the cs on and didn't notice any issues.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Welp still waiting on my new coil from CC a week later than I was initially told. Went ahead and bought a DVO topaz on sale as a backup if this new one gives me issues. And I agree with romulin that this should be a money back issue for CC especially given how crappy their products have been of late. Well check that, they're not crappy they're actually incredible when they work, prob is they don't seem to work that long. We'll see how goes and hopefully I won't need this DVO but I've totally lost confidence in this shock and CC given my issues and everything else I'm reading. I would go with another coil but unfortunately the only other one that will fit my frame is the CCDB coil non inline and if this new IL jacks up when I receive it I want nothing to do with CC anymore. I'm afraid that their awesome customer service I raved about earlier, which continues to be good, was because they have so much experience with it being their products fail so often. I dunno but CC is a small company and if they don't clean this up I predict they'll be dead inside 5 years. People won't continually put up with this BS.


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## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

I have had many CCDB coils over the years, as well as a ccdb air cs, currently have two inline coils, one is on a dh bike that hits keystone multiple times a week, no issues with either so far (other than mounting the bushings, needed their tool for that). Granted an 11-6 would be nice, but expensive.

Edit: one of them makes a slight click but didn't notice it till checking for it, still performs way better than the fox air shock it replaced.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Got my DBCoil IL yesterday, it was stripped down by TFTuned before coming to me and they fitted the coil, so should be in top shape.

I have the same clunk with the CS engaged.It feels like a worn bushing in the shock eyelet - but it's obviously not that.

Ive not played around with it yet, but it feels like the damper is returning a bit too slow with the CS on, creating the knock. I'm gonna wind all rebound damping off and see what that does, then do the same with compression damping and post back.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

> kerpoise
> Got my DBCoil IL yesterday, it was stripped down by TFTuned before coming to me and they fitted the coil, so should be in top shape.
> 
> I have the same clunk


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> Gotten a reply from Cane Creek, I was told that they are aware of the clunking sound and is still investigating the root cause. I was given an option to either exchange it with a dbcoil CS or dbair IL. Or I wait for their solution and continue to ride with the dbcoil IL. I was assure that it is safe to ride and will not affect the performance.
> Well, the reason I am getting the DBCoil IL is due to its weight and adjustability. So guess I am staying put and keep my fingers crossed that Cane Creek will solve this asap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I received the same word back from CCUSA myself. Offered to trade for the new DBAIRIL or DBCOILCS or hang tight until the fix arrives. Since I think air feels like poo poo and the DBCOILCS doesn't work with my OPT remote I guess I'm waiting as well..

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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

So there is mine, came from TFTuned with coil fitted aswell as offset bushings i ordered with it. I first thought they forgot to put it in the package as it felt very light, certainly didnt expect it to be this light (ordinary steel spring 2"), even tho as i dismounted my old Float CTD ( light like air ) i noticed it is heavier but certainly not bothering me. 
Just did a round around the house on base tune, works great and feels really alive, wheel is on the ground like constantly. I feel like sitting much higher than before even with the offset bushings, will have to get geared and have someone check the sag, maybe oreder a 500 spring instead of this 550. No issues yet. now i need a new fork to match it


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

So I was about to pull the trigger and get that coil shock but it seems most people are having trouble with the clunking noise thing ? I never never lock my rear shock for long climbs so could this avoid the problem at all ? It's a bummer, it's the only 200x50 coil on the market for my devinci troy...


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## opienor (Apr 2, 2009)

The clunking noise on mine is extremely subtle and doesn't bother me at all anymore. Seems like it has gotten quieter after breaking in. The way mine is behaving now I would never advice against buying it. 


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Thought I'd give an update on my coil. Received the new one from CC last week. Got it fitted and have now gotten two rides on it and so far so good. No clunk, no chirp, no issues whatsoever, knock on wood. It's performed awesome and I'm all smiles again with this thing. It's still early but I'm hoping that it continues to be good to go, because it feels SO good right now. I'll update later as I continue to ride it.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Word of warning though this shock, and prob any coil, will ruin you for air. I'd go back if I absolutely had to, but I wouldn't be happy about it. I've ridden some of the best air shocks out there but they're no match for a good coil. Just not in the same universe, for me at least.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Bothered me a little too, before i ordered it. 
I have even written an email before it arrived to TFTuned whether i may try it and return it if the "clunk" comes around. no answer (probably a stupid question?)

Anyways it came, i took a while to think about whether i want to open the package or send it back directly, but i mounted it. feels great. 

I am going to put it in a test next monday, tuesday (weeekend for those in gastronomy..), possibly hit some trails, wanna see if the clunk appears.

But as my GF says, if you have a bad feeling in your stomach, just dont go for it - meaning I wouldn't order it again today. I will be happy if the clunk doesnt show up, but for me its not worth the feeling of possibly doing a wrong decision. 
maybe go for DVO Topaz, probably the best thing in 2" lenght. or new fox dpx2 (not cheap) if you want an upgrade. 

i will report back


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

How many of you have an IL with a black climb switch lever? Mine came with a black lever and I'm wondering if that means its a newer build/revision of the shock. Haven't been able to go for a ride on mine yet though, its been way too wet


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Kiwiplague said:


> How many of you have an IL with a black climb switch lever? Mine came with a black lever and I'm wondering if that means its a newer build/revision of the shock. Haven't been able to go for a ride on mine yet though, its been way too wet


CS switch in black here









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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

The new one they just built me has the black CS. The other older one I sent back had the copper/gold CS so something is different, even if just the actual switch and nothing else.


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

Ok well if I buy from Jenson, is there a way to check it's got the black lever ? Cane creek website says backordered for the model...


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

matc489 said:


> Ok well if I buy from Jenson, is there a way to check it's got the black lever ? Cane creek website says backordered for the model...


No idea on that. You might just call Jenson or better yet call CC to see if there is a difference.

Might just be a different color but nothing else.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Maybe they have just stopped carrying the gold climb switch lever and are moving them all to the black one.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> Maybe they have just stopped carrying the gold climb switch lever and are moving them all to the black one.


That's always a possibility. You'd think if there was a revision they'd mention it somewhere.


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

quick question here, if I opt for the heavier double barrel coil instead of the inilne coil, am I at risk of having the same issues with the clinking noise or is it a completely different damper ? I have a devinci troy 2015 btw


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

matc489 said:


> quick question here, if I opt for the heavier double barrel coil instead of the inilne coil, am I at risk of having the same issues with the clinking noise or is it a completely different damper ? I have a devinci troy 2015 btw


Didn't hear about that damper, i am sure there is a thread about it.

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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Has anyone tried running this shock upside-down?

I am going to try it tomorrow and see how it fits onto the Canyon Spectral 2014. 
got 2 offset bushings in there and the coil touches the frame just a tiny bit on the bottom, or almost, depending how its turned. 
Of course i didnt order any normal bushings. Anyways it looks pretty tight so may not be about the bushings. will see


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

First ride today on my inline, no clicking or any other odd behavior (yet).
Shock felt quite good, had the base tune and the lsr felt a but slow, so dropped it 2 clicks towards open, that made it feel better on the rebound stroke, still have play with the other settings, but blew my rear brake  so that cut my ride short.


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

I also have a spectral (2015) and its a tight fit but so far no problem to get the shock to fit. But I don't have any offset bushing just normal, thinking of getting a pair of offset and try, please let me know how you like them.



romulin said:


> Has anyone tried running this shock upside-down?
> 
> I am going to try it tomorrow and see how it fits onto the Canyon Spectral 2014.
> got 2 offset bushings in there and the coil touches the frame just a tiny bit on the bottom, or almost, depending how its turned.
> Of course i didnt order any normal bushings. Anyways it looks pretty tight so may not be about the bushings. will see


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

An update to the clunking noise. Followed up the CaneCreek and was told that they have a 'fix' for this noise. Currently arranging to return the shock. I have to say that their customer service is really top notch. 

Will update again once the shock is fixed.

Temporarily, will move back to my Evol Float X which I still keeping.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

@coghog - thanks for all the posts/updates here, love Knolly bikes and am pulling the trigger on an endorphin with Coil IL.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

CharacterZero said:


> @coghog - thanks for all the posts/updates here, love Knolly bikes and am pulling the trigger on an endorphin with Coil IL.


Sure thing man! I've now gotten about 6 rides on my new coil and it's been flawless and I love it on the endorphin with my 160 Pike up front. It's the best all around bike I've ever ridden and as capable with that setup as 160 bikes I've had but pedals better and is more playful on the trails.

Once you get the spring rate and settings dialed in it's smooth as butter! You'll love it!


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Keithyk said:


> An update to the clunking noise. Followed up the CaneCreek and was told that they have a 'fix' for this noise. Currently arranging to return the shock. I have to say that their customer service is really top notch.
> 
> Will update again once the shock is fixed.
> 
> ...


Did they give any clue as to what the fix was or what causes the clunk?


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Kiwiplague said:


> Did they give any clue as to what the fix was or what causes the clunk?


 Unfortunately not

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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

bump....I'd like to have an update on the clunking noise. I am hesitating to buy the inline because of that noise. I called cc and the guy told me the noise only appears with the lock out engaged, is that right ? I never lock my shock so I could avoid the problem then


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Kiwiplague said:


> Did they give any clue as to what the fix was or what causes the clunk?


Is yours clunking?


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Dougal said:


> Is yours clunking?


Well mine is, even without cs, more with cs on. It's like cracking, like if it were in frame. 
I want to keep it, but it's annoying as hell. 
Gonna write cc

Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I had to put it there upside down. Controls are accessible with an allen key that came with it. The offset bushings are probably more about head angle, but for me it's a little hard to feel the difference as coming from fox float makes the biggest difference i feel, i have also really only ridden it once more aggressive. Still didn't touch the adjusters. I can measure the bb height for you. 
Also need a new fork to go with it 


sohl said:


> I also have a spectral (2015) and its a tight fit but so far no problem to get the shock to fit. But I don't have any offset bushing just normal, thinking of getting a pair of offset and try, please let me know how you like them.


Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

ahhh crap...very disappointed to hear that yours clunk even in open mode. Gonna postpone my purchase then...I already have a creaky csu on my pike, I don't need a creaky shock as well haha


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Dougal said:


> Is yours clunking?


No, not yet, but I've only had the one ride on it so far.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Inline Coil tip....

Before the tip, would like to add that I've got several very hard hours on this shock on my new Endo and I've never felt a better rear suspension setup. How much is the shock and how much is the frame, I do not know but the CC IL Coil is... well I can't believe how good this set up feels. 

One issue I noted when I took the shock out of the frame... the shock axels that interface with the shock eyelettes and frame/links already showed wear at that interface. Turns out both axels were froze at the derlin bushings in the eyelettes. This caused rotation, albeti very minimal, to occur at the link/frame/axel interface - instead of the axel rotating within the eyelette. 

Popped off the little axel o-ring/bushings and clamped the axels in my bench vise. Took a lot, a whole lot, of force to get them to unfreeze and rotate. Applied some teflon lube and worked those axels in the derlin bushings until they rotated with a reasonable amount of force. Could be all in my head but I'm pretty sure the suspension cycles a bit more easily off the top. More importantly, the bushing will now wear instead of the frame/frame link.

Spoke to CC about all that. They were cool with what I did and also mentioned that if a shock sits idle too long its concievalbe the axel could get sticky with the derlin bushing - keep in mind I'm paraphrasing them.

CC was super cool to deal with, and like I said, that shock/suspension set up is to good to believe.


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

^not following you there...have you got any pic


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

matc489 said:


> ^not following you there...have you got any pic


Think he's saying that the shock axle hardware got stuck in the eyelet bushing.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

matc489 said:


> ^not following you there...have you got any pic


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

okay well anyway I'm gonna use a needle bearing kit for the top eyelet and as for the lower one, I'll keep an eye on it. Thank you for the picture


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

can someone explain for me the positive thing with needle bearings?!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Less resistance than a bushing do moves with less force


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## sohl (Jul 3, 2016)

thanks! will order right away. on my bushing it says 22x8, should I go for the 21.85 or 22,20?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Amazing shock....*

With more hard miles on this shock I wanted to re-post regarding performance....

This shock is focking amazing.

It is very controlled through its entire travel range. I think since it is matched with such a good suspension design (Knolly), any potential negatives with a coil are absent:

Ramps up perfectly, even better than my air Fox X2, on bigger hits. Then rebounds in a non-bucking, controlled manner, and keeps you planted to the ground.

Smooth off the top but not at all mushy like one might expect out of a coil.

The climb switch is the real deal. The matching increase in damping both LSC and LSR really works well for tech climbing. The lever is easy to use, and can be easily applied in a graduated manner. Its not an all or nothing setting.

When I did have questions for Cane Creek, it was easy and very helpful to speak with them directly.

5 stars


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Guys! 

IT's gone, no cracking nuts anymore.
Recipe: lock your bike in a cellar for 2 weeks , then take it out, hike with it 5 km on a steep climb. 

Have ridden it today really hard, its a fabulous shock! You can feel every turn you make on the dials. Lowered the LSC and LSR a bit , HSC too and it is just smooooth, like you forget there is a shock, he just takes it all and does not let you know..


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

They told me today that they still do not have a fix for the clunking noise. 

"unfortunately at the moment we do not have a solution. It is certainly a priority for us but I can't give you an estimate at this point. As mentioned, you are welcome to keep riding the loaner until we have a solution, or if you are not confident with that, we can offer to trade in the Coil IL for a different shock. Let me know, thanks we appreciate your patience with us."


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

sohl said:


> thanks! will order right away. on my bushing it says 22x8, should I go for the 21.85 or 22,20?


Quote Originally Posted by dreys View Post
_*I have 2015 Intense Tracer T275C and, according to specs, the shock bushings are 30mm bottom and 22mm top.

I've seen lots of folks go with 22.2 for the top, but also some using 21.85. What size should I go with for the top mount?*_
So, it appears you already know the swing link end will be NBKRWC30. If you are changing the front end as well, NBKRWC2185 is the one you need. I'm not sure there is enough rotation at that end to justify the expense, so I recommend you check that.

from a thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...hock-needle-bearing-kit-awesome-998670-3.html

these needle bearings seemed verry interesting to me and was clear that they rotate more freely, but somewhere i read about them getting dirt more easily ( now loggicaly does not matter as they are closed between the arms of the suspension ..) , but i also liked the offsetbushing idea so it was either A or B ..


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

I did 2 hard rides with my new coil and it's awesome !!! Do you guys feel the stock setting is good for a starter ? I'm 165 lbs geared up and so far, I only added 1/2 turn of HSC.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Using the app is pretty straight forward and you should be able to tell if if it needs lsc/lsr fairly easy out on the trail.


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

yeah well the app doesn't work for me, when I enter my bike setup, I can't press next...something's wrong with the software


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

matc489 said:


> yeah well the app doesn't work for me, when I enter my bike setup, I can't press next...something's wrong with the software


I had trouble with the app as well. Wouldn't let me hit next for some of the questions and would often freeze. I reloaded it and same problems. Gave up and tuned by feel.


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

I'll also add that I have just over 100 miles on mine and no weird noises just great performance. I like it. 


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

romulin said:


> Has anyone tried running this shock upside-down?
> 
> I am going to try it tomorrow and see how it fits onto the Canyon Spectral 2014.
> got 2 offset bushings in there and the coil touches the frame just a tiny bit on the bottom, or almost, depending how its turned.
> Of course i didnt order any normal bushings. Anyways it looks pretty tight so may not be about the bushings. will see


Could you repress the lower offset bushing in with the hole at a slight angle? So that it pushes the bottom of the coil forward slightly, away from the frame.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

deserat said:


> Could you repress the lower offset bushing in with the hole at a slight angle? So that it pushes the bottom of the coil forward slightly, away from the frame.


 yes that crossed my mind too, however i dont have the tools to press the bushings out and wont go by hand. 
now its heads-down and works great !

i set it up by feel, not even counting clicks.
the app does not work for me either (the screen is broken where the "add setup" button is)


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

question : I read the quick tune sheet on cane creek and is it me or something's wrong with their terms ....

If the fork is bottoming out too frequently, add some more HSC.

If for example I bottom out while doing a drop, shouldn't I add more LSC, since drops and jumps are low speed compression events


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## DannyvG (Apr 21, 2014)

matc489 said:


> If the fork is bottoming out too frequently, add some more HSC.
> 
> If for example I bottom out while doing a drop, shouldn't I add more LSC, since drops and jumps are low speed compression events


Landing a drop op jump is HSC, most things actually are. LSC is pedalling and moving your body.

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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

DannyvG said:


> Landing a drop op jump is HSC, most things actually are. LSC is pedalling and moving your body.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I would be interested to know the actual damper rod velocity that falls in the LSC range. Anyone know?

Increasing LSC damping may help. Weight shifting can cause you to eat up available travel as you approach a drop, and more LSC damping can help prevent that. But, as above, the damper rod shaft velocity, or how fast you are cycling your fork on a landing is likely HSC damping.

All other things being equal initial damper rod velocity from a three foot to flat drop is about 10 miles per hr. Which is about 175"/second, or 444cm per second. And that is probably way beyond the realm of LSC and into HSC.

Maybe a two foot drop would be LSC damping territory. Also, as the shock velocity decreases as the fork runs through its travel, the spring will slow down the shaft velocity even without damping. So, there could be carry over into LSC damping territory.

So there, nothing is ever simple, is it.

Please correct me if I'm wrong on logic and napkin math.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Miker J said:


> I would be interested to know the actual damper rod velocity that falls in the LSC range. Anyone know?


V= (2*g*h)^0.5

For a damper low speed is anything that doesn't open the shims. Depends entirely on the tune.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

HSC changes the speed knee point where you transition from low to high.
LSC Changes the ramp up to that point.
You always go threw low to get to high.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tuesday-tune-ep-5-high-and-low-speed-damping-part-1-2016.html


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Dougal said:


> V= (2*g*h)^0.5
> 
> For a damper low speed is anything that doesn't open the shims. Depends entirely on the tune.


So, any idea on the stock range for a Pike ?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Miker J said:


> So, any idea on the stock range for a Pike ?


Pike RC the shims are so stiff it's ridiculous. So everything is working through the LSC bypass and it works like an orifice damper.

Which is why it's like riding a mid 00's Marzocchi Dropoff. Wallow, spike, wallow, spike.

A retune with softer shim stack and fixing the choke points in the rest of the damper works miracles on those.

RCT3 has the same issues, but shim stack is ~50% softer to start with.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Dougal said:


> Pike RC the shims are so stiff it's ridiculous. So everything is working through the LSC bypass and it works like an orifice damper.
> 
> Which is why it's like riding a mid 00's Marzocchi Dropoff. Wallow, spike, wallow, spike.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Good to know about the RC. More than once I thought about picking one of those up cheap, instead of the RCT, as I thought the only real difference was not having the three "pre-sets".


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## matc489 (May 31, 2012)

Quick question here...I got a 450# spring with my cc coil but it's a bit soft. I've been trying to find a damn 2.00x500# spring somewhere in Canada for the past 2 hours with no luck. Universal cycles has them in stock but they are asking 40$ of shipping for a little spring.

So with that said, is it possible to run a 2,25x500# on this cc db inline coil ? The shock is a 200x50 and there's about an inch of free thread so there's room I believe for an extra 1/4" of spring. What do you think ?


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

matc489 said:


> Quick question here...I got a 450# spring with my cc coil but it's a bit soft. I've been trying to find a damn 2.00x500# spring somewhere in Canada for the past 2 hours with no luck. Universal cycles has them in stock but they are asking 40$ of shipping for a little spring.
> 
> So with that said, is it possible to run a 2,25x500# on this cc db inline coil ? The shock is a 200x50 and there's about an inch of free thread so there's room I believe for an extra 1/4" of spring. What do you think ?


Yeah man. The springs are rated at lbs to move 1 inch so it's the same rate no matter what. The difference is the 2.0 vs 2.25 so as long as the free length of the spring fits you should be fine. I think you'd be okay as you are running a 200 E2E shock. I'm running the exact spring you're looking at on my 200x57.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

matc489 said:


> So I was about to pull the trigger and get that coil shock but it seems most people are having trouble with the clunking noise thing ? I never never lock my rear shock for long climbs so could this avoid the problem at all ? It's a bummer, it's the only 200x50 coil on the market for my devinci troy...


Mine is the same size, installed on a Lenz Fatillac, absolutely love it, won't go back to an air can.

No idea what the issue is with some users, but mine is quiet and functions perfect.

I wonder if some bikes have quirky fit issue with the coil...


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Nurse Ben said:


> Mine is the same size, installed on a Lenz Fatillac, absolutely love it, won't go back to an air can.
> 
> No idea what the issue is with some users, but mine is quiet and functions perfect.
> 
> I wonder if some bikes have quirky fit issue with the coil...


Turn on the climb switch and squirm the suspension, see if u could hear the clunking sound? There's no sound when climb switch is off.

Absolutely not the fitment issues as the sound come from the damper itself. And cane creek do admit this issue which has no solution as of now.

I am taking their offer to change to DBCoil CS instead. Although it's heavier and incompatible with OPT remote, I think I can live with considering the performance outweighs all of them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

Keithyk said:


> Turn on the climb switch and squirm the suspension, see if u could hear the clunking sound? There's no sound when climb switch is off.
> 
> Absolutely not the fitment issues as the sound come from the damper itself. And cane creek do admit this issue which has no solution as of now.
> 
> ...












I ended taking them up on the DBCoil CS. No more issues and handles like a champ 

Hope everyone else has better luck with the IL damper..


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Cycle_Sauce said:


> They told me today that they still do not have a fix for the clunking noise.
> 
> "unfortunately at the moment we do not have a solution. It is certainly a priority for us but I can't give you an estimate at this point. As mentioned, you are welcome to keep riding the loaner until we have a solution, or if you are not confident with that, we can offer to trade in the Coil IL for a different shock. Let me know, thanks we appreciate your patience with us."
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a newer CC Coil IL - came stock on my Knolly Endorphin and it has the black switch.

No knocking whatsoever - CS on/CS off, all the same.


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

I'm sure that I'm dooming myself but I've been riding my IL all summer and haven't had any problems. I have the original gold CS. On or off no problems. I've more than once accidentally left the CS on for a decent. Even with some little drops and jumps and no clunking or weird noises during or after. I'm not doubting that some of you are having issues but just want to report that some of are not.


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## Cycle_Sauce (Jul 3, 2017)

I had the gold lever, sent it back, they rebuilt it, that one kept knocking, sent that one back and they sent me the "new" damper with the black lever which also knocked right out of the gate which was strange. Have about 80 miles on the new DBCoil CS and haven't had any issues yet thankfully... 


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Cycle_Sauce said:


> I ended taking them up on the DBCoil CS. No more issues and handles like a champ
> 
> Hope everyone else has better luck with the IL damper..


That's great! Enjoy your ride

Can't wait for me replacement to arrive which should be next week

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## Davichin (May 1, 2014)

Hello all, I ordered a CCDB Coil IL and, while I wait for it, I am trying to know what is this shock´s eyelet diameter? 

Cane Creek has some shocks that are 15mm and others are 14.7mm... and I have not been able to find which one is the Coil IL.

Thank you very much!


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## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Cycle_Sauce said:


> I ended taking them up on the DBCoil CS. No more issues and handles like a champ
> 
> Hope everyone else has better luck with the IL damper..


Hi anyway, is there a difference between IL and this? Is there any noticeable performance difference?

Also is the weight noticeable?

My replacement will be arriving next Monday...

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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

there is a significant weight difference and the IL uses a bladder not an IFP so is more sensitive.


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## Horacek (Apr 20, 2009)

Dumb question....I've just bought a used dbinline coil. I read somewhere that I should start with (turns) 2,2,7&10 on each adjustment. Is that wind right back then 2 clicks clockwise etc? As you look at the shock with the pedal assist at the top or anti clockwise?

Also any further tips I.e more turns. I'm a Luddite. I need telling!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

Tuning depends on the bike and rider. Use the app


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

Horacek said:


> Dumb question....I've just bought a used dbinline coil. I read somewhere that I should start with (turns) 2,2,7&10 on each adjustment. Is that wind right back then 2 clicks clockwise etc? As you look at the shock with the pedal assist at the top or anti clockwise?
> 
> Also any further tips I.e more turns. I'm a Luddite. I need telling!


Back them all out counter clockwise to zero. As Poah eluded to, each frame is going to have a unique baseline to start with. Cane Creek has a lot of baseline settings for specific models on their app. The one that you mentioned is a relatively neutral starting point if your bike is one that is not listed. Then the fun part of fine tuning the shock to your desired settings begins. Keep a log of your damper settings along with preload. Make note of all changes.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

Tuning order (for all suspension).

Spring rate.
Ride height (preload)
LS rebound.
HS rebound.
LS compression.
HS compression.

These can all be set in a carpark. Then iterate again through the rebound and compression on a trail ride.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Sorry for your problems, but my Coil IL is working great, I use the damper switch for climbs, often forgetting to flip it up as I start descending, works great though it's not a lock out, plenty of big hits, long downhills, and all day rides.

I'm 195#, running a 650# Fox steel coil, had to grind the inside of the spring a bit to fit the larger perch and adjustmenet ring of the CC. What I love is that I can give it a 1/4 twist either way to adjust feel, so much easier and more effective than adding air.

The CC IL is an amazing little coil shock, and the only penalty is a few ounces.



Keithyk said:


> Turn on the climb switch and squirm the suspension, see if u could hear the clunking sound? There's no sound when climb switch is off.
> 
> Absolutely not the fitment issues as the sound come from the damper itself. And cane creek do admit this issue which has no solution as of now.
> 
> ...


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

why not just buy a new proper sized spring?


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

Anyone know the diameter of the gold body on the IL ?. It doesn't have the black protective plastic sleeve like the regular CCDB. If it's smaller in diameter, I have several Ti springs I could possibly use if they don't rub.

Thanks in Advance.
Matt


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

still needs the same sized ID as the coil CS


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

POAH said:


> why not just buy a new proper sized spring?


It's the spring I had, works fine.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

BC said:


> Anyone know the diameter of the gold body on the IL ?. It doesn't have the black protective plastic sleeve like the regular CCDB. If it's smaller in diameter, I have several Ti springs I could possibly use if they don't rub.
> 
> Thanks in Advance.
> Matt


It's not the body that determines ID, it's the perch/base and preload ring diameter. Fox is slightly smaller than CC.

Great fockin shock, too stuff reduce preload a 1/4 turn, too soft increase preload a 1/4 turn.

Screw air shocks!

Now I want lightweight spring fork for plus/fat minus.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

Good stuff all. Following.

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## ezweave (Jul 9, 2004)

Late to the party, perhaps, but after a miserable ride on a NOS 2016 Hightower CC (the shop I get hook ups from had somehow not sold it and gave me a deal) with a Monarch RT3, I sprung for the DBCoil IL. CC wasn't responsive to any of my email inquiries and I ordered it through Jenson.

A few hiccups, thus far: Jenson though I needed a 2.25x400, but I couldn't get it on with the spacer without zip ties (not a good sign). I have a 2.00x400 coming tomorrow. I am 145 pounds, add ten or so for gear and the calculator still has me in the 400 lb range. I am not sure if I should use the 2.00x400 or keep tinkering with the too long (and thus preloaded) 2.25 and order a 2.00x450 to see how it feels. I almost feel like I should try to get a little less sag (I kind of eyeballed it, which is not how I usually do things) with the longer spring and put some more time on it. 

I was having what I thought were bottoming out issues, as if I was riding too far into the travel, but just sitting on the bike the sag looked right. I hit some pretty rough high speed trails, with little kickers and smaller rock drops as well as some super clunky (e.g. bigger rocks, rock garden) stuff and the suspension felt very active. I didn't use the climb switch except on some very smooth climbing sections and, since I'm also a part time roadie and really try to keep my spin smooth, didn't see a huge difference.

I put HSC way up, which might be a mistake. Still just not sure if, despite the math, the 400lb is too light. 

However, despite the fact that coils are not progressive, the Hightower seems like a much more capable, comfortable bike in the rough than it did with the Monarch. I haven't gotten the HSC/HSR really balanced yet. (Using the app, of course.) Trying to find a good blend of pop and big hit performance. Any advice would be awesome.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

ezweave said:


> Late to the party, perhaps, but after a miserable ride on a NOS 2016 Hightower CC (the shop I get hook ups from had somehow not sold it and gave me a deal) with a Monarch RT3, I sprung for the DBCoil IL. CC wasn't responsive to any of my email inquiries and I ordered it through Jenson.
> 
> A few hiccups, thus far: Jenson though I needed a 2.25x400, but I couldn't get it on with the spacer without zip ties (not a good sign). I have a 2.00x400 coming tomorrow. I am 145 pounds, add ten or so for gear and the calculator still has me in the 400 lb range. I am not sure if I should use the 2.00x400 or keep tinkering with the too long (and thus preloaded) 2.25 and order a 2.00x450 to see how it feels. I almost feel like I should try to get a little less sag (I kind of eyeballed it, which is not how I usually do things) with the longer spring and put some more time on it.
> 
> ...


Will give it a shot....

Unless a bike has a completely wrong leverage curve/numbers a coil will likely make the suspension feel better through chunk and chatter.

Most SC VPP bikes have a funky leverage curve. I've had two of their VPP bikes and have tested a few others. They've all felt the same to me. Chattery through the fast stuff and blew through their travel too fast on bigger hits. The bikes felt like they had a lot less travel than their numbers would suggest.

Upping the HSC will help prevent bottom out but will also make the shock feel harsher than need through its full range of travel. For example, small high speed rooty hits will feel chattery. IMO I think their suspension is not supportive enough mid-travel, you then use of too much of it, then hit the bottom end too quickly. Instead of a slow, steady, progressive curve.

To support what I've said about those curves one can look at what they've done with the Nomad 4. They changed it to have that type of straight, progressive leverage curve. That is why people are saying it feels so great.

Perhaps upping the LSC may prevent you from using too much travel (keeping stroke in reserve) by keeping you higher up in the shock stroke. I know my SC took harder hits better when I ran the shock in "trail mode" vs "open" mode, which I think for the most part just increases LSC.

Just make sure you've got close to the correct sag on the coil. A bit off one way or the other should not make that much difference IMO.

Unfortunately I'm betting that playing with different spring rates will not fix the issue.


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## ezweave (Jul 9, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Will give it a shot....
> 
> Unless a bike has a completely wrong leverage curve/numbers a coil will likely make the suspension feel better through chunk and chatter.
> 
> ...


Yeah, this might be a fruitless endeavor (burning money and time). I really could not get the Monarch to be both supple enough for chatter and supportive before bottoming out. The coil certainly fixes the former, even if it isn't dialed in yet, but the latter seems to happen too frequently. Or it feels like it does, some of that could just be the fact that the bike is new to me. If the DB Coil IL doesn't work, I'm going to have to explore air options. Though I am curious to know how those with the 11six on the same bike like it. I know there are folks running DB Coils, 11sixs, and Ohlins on the Hightower and Bronson.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

ezweave said:


> Late to the party, perhaps, but after a miserable ride on a NOS 2016 Hightower CC (the shop I get hook ups from had somehow not sold it and gave me a deal) with a Monarch RT3, I sprung for the DBCoil IL. CC wasn't responsive to any of my email inquiries and I ordered it through Jenson.
> 
> A few hiccups, thus far: Jenson though I needed a 2.25x400, but I couldn't get it on with the spacer without zip ties (not a good sign). I have a 2.00x400 coming tomorrow. I am 145 pounds, add ten or so for gear and the calculator still has me in the 400 lb range. I am not sure if I should use the 2.00x400 or keep tinkering with the too long (and thus preloaded) 2.25 and order a 2.00x450 to see how it feels. I almost feel like I should try to get a little less sag (I kind of eyeballed it, which is not how I usually do things) with the longer spring and put some more time on it.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what the leverage curve of the Hightower is, but if it's anything like the Nomad then it will start off digressive, fairly linear in the middle and with slight progression near the end, which is perfect for a coil shock.

Using the CC spring calculator I was sitting on about 420lb so I went up to a 450lb since I wanted extra support for big drops and jumps without having to run lots of preload or HSC.

On my Reign the leverage curve is slightly progressive all the way until right near the end it becomes digressive. I run only 1 turn preload for 18% sag and about 1 and quarter out of 4 turns of HSC. It runs very well all around with no harsh bottom out. On my old Monarch I used to run 30% sag and rely on the progressiveness of the air spring to control bottom out, but that left the back end fairly unpredictable.

Basically if you find you have to really wind in the preload more than about 3 turns or HSC more than 2-3 turns to control harsh bottom out then you should get the next heavier spring as otherwise you're affecting your ride quality on everything but the big hits.


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## riyadh (Feb 13, 2015)

Has anyone or does anyone know if the CC db coil Inline coil CS will fit a Commencal meta sx 2014 model?


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)

Hello all I just picked up a DB inline coil for my 2016 Devinci Troy carbon. I have it installed and sag is in the ballpark (kind of hard to do by yourself). Havent been able to ride and tinker with it yet becuae the weather in Seattle is pretty horrible. I'm about 180lbs including riding gear and I'm using the 500lb valt spring. Really looking forward to getting it dialed in. I use my Troy for everything from XC to lift downhill and I never really got along with the monarch I was running before. I have the shock set up at the base tune recommended by the Dialed app and I'll be adjusting from there. The few reviews I've seen out there say that this shock works well on the Troy. Happy riding!


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## CharlieDog (Apr 3, 2008)




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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

Just got one for my new Knolly Warden-C. I had been running the original CCDB coil for years on my previous bike and when I saw the IL, decided to pull the trigger. I already had a couple TI springs from other shocks, but typically too small of an I.D. to fit without rubbing the gold body. The IL diameter is quite a bit smaller than the original, so plenty of room for springs from other MFRs. Only problem is the pre-load collar I.D. is .02" too large. Fortunately I have a machining center and trimmed off the .02". Total weight shock and spring came in at 460 grams. Rode a couple hours to dial everything in, and super pleased with the performance. Well see holds up. I ran the original on my Chilcotin for 4 years including ~ 15 days of DH park use before she finally blew up.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

BC said:


> Just got one for my new Knolly Warden-C. I had been running the original CCDB coil for years on my previous bike and when I saw the IL, decided to pull the trigger. I already had a couple TI springs from other shocks, but typically too small of an I.D. to fit without rubbing the gold body. The IL diameter is quite a bit smaller than the original, so plenty of room for springs from other MFRs. Only problem is the pre-load collar I.D. is .02" too large. Fortunately I have a machining center and trimmed off the .02". Total weight shock and spring came in at 460 grams. Rode a couple hours to dial everything in, and super pleased with the performance. Well see holds up. I ran the original on my Chilcotin for 4 years including ~ 15 days of DH park use before she finally blew up.
> 
> View attachment 1170337


Looks great. That spring must come in at just under 200g??? that is crazy.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

BC said:


> Just got one for my new Knolly Warden-C. I had been running the original CCDB coil for years on my previous bike and when I saw the IL, decided to pull the trigger. I already had a couple TI springs from other shocks, but typically too small of an I.D. to fit without rubbing the gold body. The IL diameter is quite a bit smaller than the original, so plenty of room for springs from other MFRs. Only problem is the pre-load collar I.D. is .02" too large. Fortunately I have a machining center and trimmed off the .02". Total weight shock and spring came in at 460 grams. Rode a couple hours to dial everything in, and super pleased with the performance. Well see holds up. I ran the original on my Chilcotin for 4 years including ~ 15 days of DH park use before she finally blew up.
> 
> View attachment 1170337


Keep us posted on how this works out.

Sharp looking setup with the coil. How about a pic of the full bike? What fork are you running?

So many times I've come within an inch of pulling the trigger on a carbon Warden... The Endo I run with the CC Coil is just so good at most everything I ride, I can't help to think how a similar bike with a bit more travel and a carbon layup would feel.


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

I had the Gen 1 Endorphin 2008' which was much burlier than the New one, Then went to the Chilcotin in 2012. The Warden climbs like a scalded cat, so I can only imagine how lively the new Endorphin is.
I'm running the DVO diamond boost at 170mm.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

BC said:


> Just got one for my new Knolly Warden-C.


Looks good man - after 5 years riding CCDB then swapping to AVY for 4 years on the Chili, I can say that the Coil IL makes my Endo 90% of the bike my chilcotin was. Really digging the IL.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

BC said:


> I had the Gen 1 Endorphin 2008' which was much burlier than the New one, Then went to the Chilcotin in 2012. The Warden climbs like a scalded cat, so I can only imagine how lively the new Endorphin is.
> I'm running the DVO diamond boost at 170mm.
> 
> View attachment 1170486


Looks great, minus the air shock


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So kind of a dumb question. 

Anyone know if the ccdb il coil damper is supposed to provide any resistance or rebound on its own without the coil? 

With the shock taken off the bike and no coil I can easily compress it by hand to bottom and it just stays there, nor return or rebound. When I put the climb switch on it is harder to compress but again not really much of any rebound without the coil installed. Like I have to manually re-extend it by hand. 

Is this normal or is the damper blown? I thought I remembered it rebounding on it’s own before and being much harder to compress with same settings but not 100% certain. 

Thanks!


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## dv8zen (Nov 30, 2017)

CogHog said:


> So kind of a dumb question.
> 
> Anyone know if the ccdb il coil damper is supposed to provide any resistance or rebound on its own without the coil?
> 
> ...


99% certain it is normal for the ccdb IL


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

I have had 2 DB IL coil and both will provide some resistance to compression without a coil installed, and then extend back to full extension at a damped speed once you release it.


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## dv8zen (Nov 30, 2017)

teK-- said:


> I have had 2 DB IL coil and both will provide some resistance to compression without a coil installed, and then extend back to full extension at a damped speed once you release it.


This can happen too. Both can happen, depending on the setup.

You have to question what's the path of least resistance in which the most oil will flow from the force of the gas charged bladder alone. The resulting force needs to be high enough to overcome stiction as well, from the main sealhead and piston.

The CCDB IL has a very wide range of adjustment. It should feel pretty easy to compress it with the compression circuit open. If the rebound circuit is open too, its flow rate could* rival the flow rate of oil through the compression check valve, which results it the shaft staying where it is. *this is the big if that my argument hinges on

If you have a rebound circuit that is set for typical riding, and the bladder's charged to fairly high pressure*, I'd expect the flow of the oil through the compression check valve to extend the shaft, which gets TeK's scenario. *this is the big if on TeK's scenario

So basically, if you close your rebound settings a bit and the shock still stays compressed, you might need to check the nit charge on your shock. I am working off of the assumption that the factory charge is fairly light* to begin with. *double digit (50psi might be more the enough esp for a short stroke version)

The fact that you feel a difference with CS on and haven't reported knocking* or freeplay when trying to rapidly switch from shaft compression to extension, tells me that there's still a proper amount of oil in there and the at least the damping circuits are working. If you increase the HS damping, you should feel an even more notable difference with CS on. *if you didn't have a proper nit charge, this could happen, though much less likely on twin tube shock

Thinking about it, with CS on, the compression check valve should be the path of least resistance. Perhaps by some freak assembly error, the compression check valve is stiffly valved. That'd or a lack of a proper nit charge are both worth sending the shock in for.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So called cane creek and evidently they think it’s cavitation. 

Should be a warranty issue since it’s only 5 months old but I’m not a happy camper. 

They seriously need to get their crap together, their QC is severely lacking.


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## dv8zen (Nov 30, 2017)

What symptoms did you report to have them diagnose it as cavitation? Can't think of any reason that either oil aeration or actual vacuum-based true cavitation would create that issue (inc. pitting-like dmg).






teK claimed that he had 2 DB Coil IL that extended at rest. I know for a fact that the CCDBA and DBA Inlines (w/CS) don't extend without air pressurizing their air cans. They don't compress without a pressurized air can either, without force. I should remove the air can on one to ensure it's not due to pressure differential (vac on one side, increased pressure on the other), though I wouldn't know how to eliminate atmospheric pressure from the neg chamber without a vacuum.









Kind of boggled that there's some sign of something being wrong based on that trait. If I try to refine my prediction of the path of least resistance:
- the IFP (bladder) nit charge seeks to depressurize, and to do that the shaft would need to be pushed out, so the IFP can displace the oil that is pressurizing it
- the oil is able to flow to both sides of the main piston, but which side gets pressure build-up first? There's a shorter distance to the compression side of the piston
- if pressure builds up there first, which pushes it outward and overcomes the pressure build-up coming from the rebound side, does it close the rebound check valve and redirect oil to extend the shaft?
- if so, the oil being pushed by extending the shaft has to go through the rebound circuit, which should allow flow as long as the LS orifice is open (completely closed if CS is on)
- if closed, the pressure from the IFP needs to be high enough to overcome the preload on the HS circuit
- stiction/friction/drag and LSR plays a role in working against the IFP's pressure in extending shaft

I'd like to get a sample to act like teK's in RL, but I don't own the coil version, only the air version. What's different besides the spring? A bigger bushing and seal on the sealhead from the IL revision, and what else?


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

If a shock doesn't self-extend then it's lost internal gas pressure.

If a shock loses internal gas pressure (or just hasn't got enough) then it sucks air in via the main shaft seal and foams up the oil. They also start knocking.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Well I told him about the lack of rebound and lack of much compression resistance and he said that he felt like it could be normal and briefly stated that it could possibly be cavitation and gave a brief rundown if it. But I got off the phone thinking maybe everything was ok and went and rode. 

Anyway I got home and decided to check it again and it seemed to be doing what he described as cavitation. Basically very notchy in the first part of the stroke, like there’s no resistance then the damping catches it and it’s doing it both on compression and rebound with compression and rebound damping completely off. Also it’s intermittent. It’ll do it on a couple cycles of the stroke then go away and come back again emitting a weird sound as well that I don’t notice in the rest of the stroke. 

I checked both low speed compression and rebound and they seemed to work as did the climb switch, but the high speed circuits didn’t seem to do anything. But I may not have been generating the speed necessary by hand only.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Dougal said:


> If a shock doesn't self-extend then it's lost internal gas pressure.
> 
> If a shock loses internal gas pressure (or just hasn't got enough) then it sucks air in via the main shaft seal and foams up the oil. They also start knocking.


That's pretty much what he was saying. That it had lost its internal pressure and should extend, if just a bit, without the spring.

And the notchiness was likely cavitation from air entering a leaky seal possibly.

Like the stroke is not smooth, you can feel it kind of jump.


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## dv8zen (Nov 30, 2017)

Yea, send that in. Aerated oil compresses (oil's used in dampers because it shouldn't/doesn't compress), and that will create a lag feeling before the air "bottoms out" and begins to transfer the force as usual. That's the knocking or freeplay I was talking about, which you didn't initially report. I suspect lack of nit charge now. Air gets in when there's space for it, from the IFP/bladder allowing more in or oil leaking out.

All this time was wondering why a twin tube shock that wouldn't extend at rest would be a problem. Probably gonna see this question again when there's a thru-shaft coil shock on the market. xD

Try and diagnose this guy: Fox 34 top out in middle of stroke. Top of stroke rebound normal. | Ridemonkey Forums 
- beyond "cavitation", could it be that a lot of oil leaked out? xD


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

Dougal said:


> If a shock doesn't self-extend then it's lost internal gas pressure.
> 
> If a shock loses internal gas pressure (or just hasn't got enough) then it sucks air in via the main shaft seal and foams up the oil. They also start knocking.


Exactly.
If the shaft doesn't extend on its own internal pressure, clunking will happen very soon. No point in riding it.

Juse put a ccdb IL coil on my new Knolly Warden. Feels fantastic. Hope it lasts. If not, I've got backup shocks. I had the original CCDB coil on my Chilcotin. It took years of hammering before it finally blew.


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## YOYOHO (Oct 26, 2016)

Just fitted my CC IL onto my Transition Smuggler. Now I need to find some base settings to kick off.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

YOYOHO said:


> Just fitted my CC IL onto my Transition Smuggler. Now I need to find some base settings to kick off.


Use the app

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## YOYOHO (Oct 26, 2016)

Silentfoe said:


> Use the app
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Hey, hadn't thought of that! No really, the app is flaking out and not allowing me to chose the 190x50 setting so I can't move past that, the lounge is down for the for seeable future and the app / website don't have any base settings for a 2015 Transition Smuggler and only offer the standard neutral tune that comes out of the factory and nothing in particular for 2015 / 2016 / 2017 so no dice there.

All good though as a few helpful people have gone to the trouble of stumping up their settings, weights and info for their Smugglers so I have a jump off point to do laps tomorrow and fine tune for my likes. Kudos to them for that.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

BC said:


> I had the Gen 1 Endorphin 2008' which was much burlier than the New one, Then went to the Chilcotin in 2012. The Warden climbs like a scalded cat, so I can only imagine how lively the new Endorphin is.
> I'm running the DVO diamond boost at 170mm.
> 
> View attachment 1170486


How do you like the Warden C with the coil IL? does it take too much pop and liveliness of the bike?


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

pedrosalas7 said:


> How do you like the Warden C with the coil IL? does it take too much pop and liveliness of the bike?


I Love the CCDB for what I ride. As far as "pop" goes, you can tune it any way you like (the beauty of having all the adjustments). I backed off the LSC from factory settings 4 clicks (counter clockwise), and one click of LSR. Both high speed circuits are at factory settings. Most shocks have too much LSC for my liking (I'm also a lightweight ~140lbs.)


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## McCooleet (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi new to this thread just bought a CC DB IL Coil 7.875 x 2.0 and someone told me you can convert it to 7.875 x 2.25, just wondering how? Thanks


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## carbine_275 (Nov 15, 2015)

McCooleet said:


> Hi new to this thread just bought a CC DB IL Coil 7.875 x 2.0 and someone told me you can convert it to 7.875 x 2.25, just wondering how? Thanks


From what I've heard, there's what amounts to a spacer between the lower shock eyelet and spring perch that can be easily removed. The stroke is limited by the bottom out bumper, so moving the spring perch toward the lower eyelet increases the travel.

2.25"
https://planetcyclery.com/pub/media...c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/r/s/rs6540.jpg

2.00"
https://planetcyclery.com/pub/media...c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/r/s/rs6539.jpg


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

carbine_275 said:


> From what I've heard, there's what amounts to a spacer between the lower shock eyelet and spring perch that can be easily removed. The stroke is limited by the bottom out bumper, so moving the spring perch toward the lower eyelet increases the travel.
> 
> 2.25"
> https://planetcyclery.com/pub/media...c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/r/s/rs6540.jpg
> ...


Might be more motion for your strokin' but that i2i doesn't get any longer.


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## krau (Jan 18, 2018)

McCooleet said:


> Hi new to this thread just bought a CC DB IL Coil 7.875 x 2.0 and someone told me you can convert it to 7.875 x 2.25, just wondering how? Thanks


Did you ever try the above suggestions? I also would like to know if this is possible


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## McCooleet (Sep 30, 2013)

Yes I did and it worked. Just had three rides on it with factory settings and bike feels different and I'm loving it, this is my first time using coil shock should have done it long time ago.


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## krau (Jan 18, 2018)

McCooleet said:


> Yes I did and it worked. Just had three rides on it with factory settings and bike feels different and I'm loving it, this is my first time using coil shock should have done it long time ago.


Great to hear! I'm waiting on my coil IL in the mail currently. It's for my Trance, but I might be moving my build over to a 2016-2017 Reign eventually which is a 57mm stroke, vs the 51mm Trance.


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## McCooleet (Sep 30, 2013)

I have a question to everyone, will a SLS fox coil fit CC DB Coil IL shock?


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

no, its too narrow


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## BC (Jan 11, 2006)

See my post on 12-2 for more info on spring fit.


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## half_man_half_scab (Mar 7, 2006)

YOYOHO said:


> Hey, hadn't thought of that! No really, the app is flaking out and not allowing me to chose the 190x50 setting so I can't move past that, the lounge is down for the for seeable future and the app / website don't have any base settings for a 2015 Transition Smuggler and only offer the standard neutral tune that comes out of the factory and nothing in particular for 2015 / 2016 / 2017 so no dice there.
> 
> All good though as a few helpful people have gone to the trouble of stumping up their settings, weights and info for their Smugglers so I have a jump off point to do laps tomorrow and fine tune for my likes. Kudos to them for that.


You bottoming out much with the coil on the smug?


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## krau (Jan 18, 2018)

So I'm attempting to mount up my coil inline and it seems to have come with a needle bearing (bushing?) installed in the lower eyelet. My stock monarch doesn't have anything in the eyelet. Is it okay to remove this and run it like the monarch without bushing? The bolt that goes through the lower and upper eyelet go through bearings which is why I assume it's fine....


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

It's just a bushing. Press it out and it's a standard 15mm bore.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

I'm thinking about a coil and am trying to decide between the IL and CS. Did anyone consider the CS before buying the IL? Why did you pick the IL?


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

IL is lighter and uses a bladder instead of an IFP which makes it more sensitive. For heavy riders or extended rough use (full time DH) I would have bought the CS.


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## meSSican (Aug 8, 2010)

Just fitted one to my 2015 Rallon today. All I had on hand was a 2.8 Fox spring and surprisingly it fit. Was a bit tight on the lower seat but popped in. Going to try it out tomorrow.


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## xeren (Aug 1, 2014)

Wow, really glad I found this thread.

I upgraded from an Inline to a DB Coil IL early in 2017 and soon got that "knock" on rebound that everyone is talking about with the climb switch on. I contacted CC, and they said they hadn't encountered anything like it before (maybe I was the first one to come to them with this issue?). They had me try everything they could think. I even stripped my whole bike, replaced all the pivot bearings, spending hours going crazy trying to make sure it was the shock and not something else. After all that I was pretty sure.

They serviced it, it came back, same problem. I sent it in AGAIN, they serviced it, came back same problem. They sent me an entirely new shock, same problem AGAIN, but much less noticeable. At that point, they asked me how big a deal it was, like could I live with it? With it being a bit better, and me being so tired of not having my bike rideable, I just dealt with it for a while, but in the last month or so, the knock has come back to full force, and it's getting really annoying. As others mentioned, it essentially feels like cavitation - there is no damping at the very first ~3mm of rebound, and then the damping kicks in, making the knock sound, which reverberates throughout my frame. I can also make it happen whether the climb switch is on or not by temporarily turning the LSC all the way to max.

But finding this thread, and finally knowing for sure that it wasn't something about my bike or my installation of the shock makes me feel slightly saner. I think I'm going to contact them again soon and see if they finally have a fix for this, and i'll report back.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

xeren said:


> Wow, really glad I found this thread.
> 
> I upgraded from an Inline to a DB Coil IL early in 2017 and soon got that "knock" on rebound that everyone is talking about with the climb switch on. I contacted CC, and they said they hadn't encountered anything like it before (maybe I was the first one to come to them with this issue?). They had me try everything they could think. I even stripped my whole bike, replaced all the pivot bearings, spending hours going crazy trying to make sure it was the shock and not something else. After all that I was pretty sure.
> 
> ...


Bummer.

I've been on mine for 6 months no problem - absolutely stellar shock at that.


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## xeren (Aug 1, 2014)

CharacterZero said:


> Bummer.
> 
> I've been on mine for 6 months no problem - absolutely stellar shock at that.


oh, the performance is amazing. if it wasn't the best shock I've ever used, I wouldn't be putting up with so many issues. I had one of the original DB Inlines too. same thing - so many problems, but I put up with it because it was the best shock I had ever used at the time


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

I’ve got a CCair iL CS on my Knolly Endorphin. I haven’t played around much with it but I’m finding that it seems to wallow in its travel when on XC like even terrain and I blow through the travel on any sort of DH. I did a ride the other day with less than 3ft drops. I’m 6’2” 200 geared up, strong rider running 162-165 psi with no spacers in the shock yet. 

On a side note I’ve got a guy who wants to buy my CC DBAir iL and I can get a smoking deal on a DVO topaz. So that seems to add more questions to my problem. Any thoughts.


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## Misfitdave (Feb 6, 2018)

inaxganja said:


> Mine working flawlessly after 5 months of abuse. Mounted on Canyon Spectral 140mm back (very progressive leverage ratio) with needle bearings, and 160mm RS Pike RCT3 front with AWK doble air chamber system. Coming form Inline Air very happy, but Coil is really impressive. When you get the right setup it gives amazing small bump compilance, plenty of traction, big hit support, super consistency, no overheating. Climb Switch works very well also.
> 
> 500lb Spring for 84kg equipped rider, 3.5-4 turns of preload for 17-15mm (30-28%) Sag. Coming from Inline Air, started with same setup and finished adding some high speed compression and rebound damping to counteract the linnear feeling of the coil and give more end-stroke support. HSC: 2.5 - HSR: 3 - LSC: 5 - LSR: 12.
> 
> ...


Hey lovely bike, i have the similar EX7 version and was beginning to dream about upgrades. What cc coil size did you fit? how much did the 160 forks slacken the head angle? 
I have off set bushings on mine and it slacked out to 65.5 degrees and was great- more forgiving- for the downs and not much of a noticeable difference on the ups. 
if you've already posted up a spec list of your build please send me a link love to see it. 
Cheers David


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

buddiesconfusion said:


> I've got a CCair iL CS on my Knolly Endorphin. I haven't played around much with it but I'm finding that it seems to wallow in its travel when on XC like even terrain and I blow through the travel on any sort of DH. I did a ride the other day with less than 3ft drops. I'm 6'2" 200 geared up, strong rider running 162-165 psi with no spacers in the shock yet.
> 
> On a side note I've got a guy who wants to buy my CC DBAir iL and I can get a smoking deal on a DVO topaz. So that seems to add more questions to my problem. Any thoughts.


New or used Topaz? If it's a one off deal I'm not trying to poach it, but I'm thinking about getting one.


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

askibum02 said:


> New or used Topaz? If it's a one off deal I'm not trying to poach it, but I'm thinking about getting one.


It's new. But I'm going to get the topaz. Just sold my CC DBAir iL. So I'll wait for the cash to clear then buy that topaz.


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## lubike (Mar 5, 2008)

I have a spring question. I have recently put this on my Spartan, with the 400 Valt, I’m getting the just under the minimum recommended sag of 28% with 2 turns of preload, which I'm happy with for trail riding. I also want to run it with the full 33% sag for DH days, I got a 350 Cane Creek Steel spring when I got the shock, and its closer but not quite the full 33% that I would like. Its also substantially heavier then the Valt, and I would like to keep the weight somewhat down, so I’ve been looking for a Ti option since the Valt doesn’t come in anything lower then a 400 in that stroke length. I found someone selling one that is 325 X 2.75 and I’m wondering if that will work, I read somewhere that you can get away with 2.75 on a 2.5 (I saw something to that affect in this thread, but with 3.00 and 3.25) and I should be able to find the sag with a couple extra turns of preload if I have to with the 325. Does that sound about right? Just looking for some advice before I pull the trigger. its a good price for a Ti spring.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

lubike said:


> I have a spring question. I have recently put this on my Spartan, with the 400 Valt, I'm getting the just under the minimum recommended sag of 28% with 2 turns of preload, which I'm happy with for trail riding. I also want to run it with the full 33% sag for DH days, I got a 350 Cane Creek Steel spring when I got the shock, and its closer but not quite the full 33% that I would like. Its also substantially heavier then the Valt, and I would like to keep the weight somewhat down, so I've been looking for a Ti option since the Valt doesn't come in anything lower then a 400 in that stroke length. I found someone selling one that is 325 X 2.75 and I'm wondering if that will work, I read somewhere that you can get away with 2.75 on a 2.5 (I saw something to that affect in this thread, but with 3.00 and 3.25) and I should be able to find the sag with a couple extra turns of preload if I have to with the 325. Does that sound about right? Just looking for some advice before I pull the trigger. its a good price for a Ti spring.


Might be better off with the 400 with 28% as a coil spring will have less bottom out protection than air. This would allow you to run less compression damping and preload (i run one turn for example). I'm not sure if the leverage curves in your frame though and whether this is the case. You want a slightly firmer spring if it's digressive or linear at the end stroke. Maybe just ride it and see?


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## lubike (Mar 5, 2008)

teK-- said:


> Might be better off with the 400 with 28% as a coil spring will have less bottom out protection than air. This would allow you to run less compression damping and preload (i run one turn for example). I'm not sure if the leverage curves in your frame though and whether this is the case. You want a slightly firmer spring if it's digressive or linear at the end stroke. Maybe just ride it and see?


Thanks, yeah, I'm going to hold on to the 400, but I barely get 28%, its actually a bit under, and the cane creek spring calculator is telling me I should have a 326 ish spring for freeride/DH for my weight, travel and stroke length. From what I have read, the Spartan is a progressive suspension design, in fact I got the shock on the recommendation of a guy who works at a suspension place that has a Spartan and ran it for a summer. I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too, two springs, one for the DH days, and one for the more trail oriented days, and the 350 doesn't quite give me 33% sag that is recommended for DH. I'm more wondering if the 2.75 is going to be an issue on a shock that is 2.5 stroke, ie will it bind more?


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

lubike said:


> Thanks, yeah, I'm going to hold on to the 400, but I barely get 28%, its actually a bit under, and the cane creek spring calculator is telling me I should have a 326 ish spring for freeride/DH for my weight, travel and stroke length. From what I have read, the Spartan is a progressive suspension design, in fact I got the shock on the recommendation of a guy who works at a suspension place that has a Spartan and ran it for a summer. I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too, two springs, one for the DH days, and one for the more trail oriented days, and the 350 doesn't quite give me 33% sag that is recommended for DH. I'm more wondering if the 2.75 is going to be an issue on a shock that is 2.5 stroke, ie will it bind more?


a 2.75 spring is not going to bind in a 2.5 shock. Only possibly if it was the other way around. You might struggle to get a 2.75 spring into the 2.5 shock without pre-compressing it slightly first. You can stand on it and then hold it compressed using zip ties, fit it to the shock, then cut the zip ties whilst the preload collar is pressed up against it the spring.

I think the 350 spring would be better given you have a progressive rate frame (assuming it is progressive all the way to the end).


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## lubike (Mar 5, 2008)

I found a 2.5 x 350 Ti spring for the same price so I jumped on that.


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## mmpopeur (May 9, 2011)

Does someone knows what spring length I need for a 210 X 55 CC Metric shock ?
I'm not sure to go for a 2 or 2.25
Thanks


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## StumpyandhisBike (Jun 26, 2012)

The 2.25 (57mm) would be closer to 55mm as well as it definitely would not be undersized like the 2.00 (50.8mm) spring is which might bind at full bottom.


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## Rodney (Dec 17, 2006)

interested in this shock... just read this whole thread!


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## stereo007 (Jan 14, 2017)

Any updated on noise issue on this shock? 

Does anybody know how is overall reliability compared to Fox DHX2? Trying to decide between these two... approx 130 g difference, user serviceable fox and 160 CAD every CC rebuild


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

stereo007 said:


> Any updated on noise issue on this shock?
> 
> Does anybody know how is overall reliability compared to Fox DHX2? Trying to decide between these two... approx 130 g difference, user serviceable fox and 160 CAD every CC rebuild


is the dhx2 really only 130g heavier? seems much heavier when i hold both in my hands...


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## stereo007 (Jan 14, 2017)

Size 7.875x2.25.

is it true dhx2 works well with VALT springs?!


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## ijak (Jan 5, 2017)

stereo007 said:


> Size 7.875x2.25.
> 
> is it true dhx2 works well with VALT springs?!


Valt will work with DHX2, however Valt spring's Inner diameter is slightly larger, so the DHX2 might not have a big enough base to fully cover the base of a valt spring.

On another note, why would you not use Fox's SLS? It's lighter than the Valt Spring.

third note: Fox's SLS Spring fits DB COIL IL. Why? because it's lighter DB COil IL (200x57) + Valt (450lbs x 2.25)= 629 grams.
Same configuration + Fox SLS = 470grams, which is pretty damn close to air cans.


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## ijak (Jan 5, 2017)

stereo007 said:


> Any updated on noise issue on this shock?
> 
> Does anybody know how is overall reliability compared to Fox DHX2? Trying to decide between these two... approx 130 g difference, user serviceable fox and 160 CAD every CC rebuild


Fox is going to be better as the direct comparison would be Cane Creek's DB Coil CS not this IL version without the piggy back.


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## stereo007 (Jan 14, 2017)

Only thing I don’t like about SLS is what I found from couple sources - they don’t last long and spring rate is changing quite fast. I’m fairly heavy and ride on steep, rough terrain so I’m not really into changing $100-$120 spring every season.

What is weight of your 200x57 cc coil inline?


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## ijak (Jan 5, 2017)

stereo007 said:


> Only thing I don't like about SLS is what I found from couple sources - they don't last long and spring rate is changing quite fast. I'm fairly heavy and ride on steep, rough terrain so I'm not really into changing $100-$120 spring every season.
> 
> What is weight of your 200x57 cc coil inline?


284grams


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Anybody know if a 210x55 Inline Coil will stretch to 57mm stroke? 

Or would I need to go on the other end, and take a 216x63 and put some travel spacers in?


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## bfranco (Sep 21, 2007)

For what it's worth, got a CC IL Coil on a 2017 Hightower. It's amazing! Set it up with base settings off the CC app which I love as well. Amazing traction, still pops, runs silent. Zero complaints


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## citizenk1m (Mar 15, 2018)

I’ve a quick question. I know the answer probably isn’t a straightforward one but here goes. 
I’m running the ccilc on my airdrop and I’ve been using a 450 coil with great success. I’m now giving a 500 a go just to see how a heavier spring feels. 
Here’s the question:
To keep a similar feel to the 450 but with added support, is there a simple method of adding/taking off clicks from the adjusters? 
Eg +50lbs = +1click lsr
-1click lsc etc


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

citizenk1m said:


> I've a quick question. I know the answer probably isn't a straightforward one but here goes.
> I'm running the ccilc on my airdrop and I've been using a 450 coil with great success. I'm now giving a 500 a go just to see how a heavier spring feels.
> Here's the question:
> To keep a similar feel to the 450 but with added support, is there a simple method of adding/taking off clicks from the adjusters?
> ...


Good question. I highly doubt there is a straightforward formula.

I'd start with backing off LCS and HSC one click, and increase LSR and HSR one click.

Although as I recall some of those adjusters aren't actually "turns", but I think you get the idea. Its been quite a while since I've needed to adjust my CC.


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## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

Have you guys compared a DBcoilCS to the coil inline?

I'm actually liking my DBcoil (more so than my Push'd MX shock) but no remote for the climb switch sorta sucks.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Christopher Robin said:


> Have you guys compared a DBcoilCS to the coil inline?
> 
> I'm actually liking my DBcoil (more so than my Push'd MX shock) but no remote for the climb switch sorta sucks.


No, but my Inline coil has a climb switch. We have a lot of techy, steep climbs, and one of my favorite parts of riding is cleaning a tough climb.

I almost never use the climb switch.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

Miker J said:


> No, but my Inline coil has a climb switch. We have a lot of techy, steep climbs, and one of my favorite parts of riding is cleaning a tough climb.
> 
> I almost never use the climb switch.


Same I only ever use my CS on long fireroad climbs, but even then I don't always use it.


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## YOYOHO (Oct 26, 2016)

Just sold my Tranny Smuggler and have a Cane Creek DBInline Coil 190x50 with 450 and 500 springs for sale. Bought in November. Fitted in January. Less than 20hrs on it and working faultlessly. I can ship in the UK and make a plan for USA / Australia. Let me know if anyone is keen. Priced to sell.


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## r34 gtr (Aug 10, 2011)

Well, just done 10 rides on mine and now is making the clunking noise with the climb switch on (also very quiet sound with the cs off), so disappointed.

Awesome shock when it works - unfortunately this is my second and final faulty cane creek product purchase.

Was there any fix cane creek sorted out?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

PHeller said:


> Anybody know if a 210x55 Inline Coil will stretch to 57mm stroke?
> 
> Or would I need to go on the other end, and take a 216x63 and put some travel spacers in?


Trying again, since even Cane Creek is slow to answer this question.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

...


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

r34 gtr said:


> Well, just done 10 rides on mine and now is making the clunking noise with the climb switch on (also very quiet sound with the cs off), so disappointed.
> 
> Awesome shock when it works - unfortunately this is my second and final faulty cane creek product purchase.
> 
> Was there any fix cane creek sorted out?


I've had two CCDBIL coil and both eventually developed the noise after 3-4 months. No obvious performance reduction though.


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## Misfitdave (Feb 6, 2018)

Coil shock for Spectral

Hi am looking into getting the CC DB IL for my canyon Spectral 2015. It has 140mm rear travel.

As I’m new to coil trying to understand shock lengths coil springs and calculators are some what baffling.

So what I’ve learned so far – and correct me if I’m wrong-

My RS debonair rt3 is 190 x 51 length so I can get a CCDB IL 190x50 length?

The spring length is 2.0 x pounds?

My weight with gear is 76 -77kg and I ride black trails and DH occasionally for fun. I like my suspension on the plusher side.

Is a 400 or 450 lb spring about right?

Mounting hard wear. I currently have standard offset bushings in at the moment, can I continue to use them or do I need new bushings or spacers? Are CC eyelet spacing difference and require specific spacers? Ideally I’d like to keep my lower Offset Bushing and place some needle bearings at the top rocker. 
I’m read I can’t use Needle bearings with off set bushing on CC shocks. It’s one or the other.

What else haven’t I considered?

Totally new to this so any help is appreciated.

Cheers David


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## Swine109 (Apr 3, 2018)

Hey YOYOHO I'm interested in the shock. PM me or hit me on [email protected]. Cheers


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Misfitdave said:


> Coil shock for Spectral
> 
> Hi am looking into getting the CC DB IL for my canyon Spectral 2015. It has 140mm rear travel.
> 
> ...


Hi I have the setup on my canyon.
I think you will be OK with 450 lb spring x2, tho you can fit the next longer one in there too (2.25?).
Have 2 offset bushings there, I think you'll need new ones with the diameter fitting into the cc shock eyelet. 22.2 x 8mm ones. TFtuned has it all described on their page, check it.

I also want to put one needle bearing on top, do you know of a source in Europe?

Beware, with offset bushing on the bottom using this shock, you have to mount it upside down, otherwise it hits the seat tube.

Shock length is correct.

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

r34 gtr said:


> Well, just done 10 rides on mine and now is making the clunking noise with the climb switch on (also very quiet sound with the cs off), so disappointed.
> 
> Awesome shock when it works - unfortunately this is my second and final faulty cane creek product purchase.
> 
> Was there any fix cane creek sorted out?


Don't know if any fix, it was a huge discussion here, mine started after few rides too, but eventually went away after about a week in garage... Give it a try. Great shock

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## r34 gtr (Aug 10, 2011)

romulin said:


> Don't know if any fix, it was a huge discussion here, mine started after few rides too, but eventually went away after about a week in garage... Give it a try. Great shock
> 
> Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


Just got mine back from NSDynamics. It's now not making any clunking sound and has been totally fix.
Couldn't be happier - they did a great job and were fast!


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## Misfitdave (Feb 6, 2018)

romulin said:


> Hi I have the setup on my canyon.
> I think you will be OK with 450 lb spring x2, tho you can fit the next longer one in there too (2.25?).
> Have 2 offset bushings there, I think you'll need new ones with the diameter fitting into the cc shock eyelet. 22.2 x 8mm ones. TFtuned has it all described on their page, check it.
> 
> ...


Thanks mate,

i got mine from rwc in the US, lovely kit.

i have found this place in europe,
Kit Roller Amachete

which l looks good too.

i'm curious about the shock hitting the seat tube, how does that happen? because the rear is slightly more compressed does it touch the bulge where the pivot is?

cheers dave


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## animalman86 (Apr 6, 2018)

r34 gtr said:


> Just got mine back from NSDynamics. It's now not making any clunking sound and has been totally fix.
> Couldn't be happier - they did a great job and were fast!


Was this a warranty fix or just a regular service?

I am looking at getting one from MTB direct as the pricing is pretty good. However given we are in Aus you can almost guarantee that these shocks will be older stock and likely to have the issues that everyone else has found in the last year.


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## r34 gtr (Aug 10, 2011)

animalman86 said:


> Was this a warranty fix or just a regular service?
> 
> I am looking at getting one from MTB direct as the pricing is pretty good. However given we are in Aus you can almost guarantee that these shocks will be older stock and likely to have the issues that everyone else has found in the last year.


Hi mate - yes I got mine from MTB direct who are awesome to deal with. NSDynamics rebuilt the shock under warranty and were also awesome.
The shocks are the new version with the black lockout level I think.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

animalman86 said:


> Was this a warranty fix or just a regular service?
> 
> I am looking at getting one from MTB direct as the pricing is pretty good. However given we are in Aus you can almost guarantee that these shocks will be older stock and likely to have the issues that everyone else has found in the last year.


I bought one from MTBD in about November and it was the new version with black climbswitch. After a few rides it developed the same knock when the CS was on. I had the earlier version DBILCoil and that also developed the knock after a few rides as well.

Not fussed as I hardly ever use the CS and it doesn't seem to affect performance in any case.


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## r34 gtr (Aug 10, 2011)

teK-- said:


> I bought one from MTBD in about November and it was the new version with black climbswitch. After a few rides it developed the same knock when the CS was on. I had the earlier version DBILCoil and that also developed the knock after a few rides as well.
> 
> Not fussed as I hardly ever use the CS and it doesn't seem to affect performance in any case.


Mine didn't make a sound on the first 9 rides, when i didn't use the climb switch. It started knocking as soon as I used the climb switch on one ride.
I'm not going to use the climb switch this time. I don't really need it and the shock feels great compared to my dpx2.
I would like to try using the climb switch after NSDynamics have fixed it, but I don't want to take the chance.


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## Charlo489 (Apr 23, 2013)

I have the 200x50 inline coil and read somewhere that it's possible to remove a spacer to increase the stroke to 57. Do you guys know where is that spacer ? All I would need is a new coil ?


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Hello trailwerks,
Which type of eyelet will fit to the Smuggler?
Seems CC have multi eyelet types for the shocks (!?)
Cheers,


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

my knocking eventually got worse and worse and you would hear it without the CS being on. Met someone with a brand new shock the other day and it was doing it too. Getting a service this week so will see if that cures it.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

NETTA170 said:


> Hello trailwerks,
> Which type of eyelet will fit to the Smuggler?
> Seems CC have multi eyelet types for the shocks (!?)
> Cheers,


The hardware for the inlines (air or coil) are the same as current fox/Manitou/RS shocks which is 12.7mm


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

I'm refferanced to this:

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...ek-double-barrel-eyelets-hardware-927180.html


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

15mm


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Misfitdave said:


> Thanks mate,
> 
> i got mine from rwc in the US, lovely kit.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the search work! Those indeed look great,, gonna order some.

Yes if you put an offset bushing on the bottom, the plate that holds the spring will scratch your seat tube on compression, it's not too hard, that plate can move some but not ideal. If you flip the shock there will be no contract, just have to use the Allen key from package to tweak settings cause there will be no space for a multi tool between those settings and down tube...  And climb switch is on the bottom too. But I don't care

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Charlo489 said:


> I have the 200x50 inline coil and read somewhere that it's possible to remove a spacer to increase the stroke to 57. Do you guys know where is that spacer ? All I would need is a new coil ?


Never heard of it.
Only thing I know is that you can probably fit an 2.25" coil into 2" shock

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## crankpuller (Feb 27, 2004)

Charlo489 said:


> I have the 200x50 inline coil and read somewhere that it's possible to remove a spacer to increase the stroke to 57. Do you guys know where is that spacer ? All I would need is a new coil ?


There is an external elastomer bumper that can be moved to get the extra 7mm of travel out of the shock. Coil likely wouldn't need to be swapped.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## Charlo489 (Apr 23, 2013)

Well I figured it out I think, it's not an elastomer bumper, that bumper is the bottom out bumper, you don't want to remove that. There is however an aluminium piece that goes on the spring clip and that piece is exactly 7mm long and it does not show up in the schematics of the manual ! So I removed it and I now have an extra 7 mm of travel


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Very intresting tho..!
Can't see the CC logic to do so.


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## Charlo489 (Apr 23, 2013)

well, the 7mm piece I'm talking about sits between the spring clip and the eyelet so if effectively reduces the travel of the shaft.


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## kitejumping (Sep 3, 2010)

I removed that too on mine to fit a titanium spring, but I don't think it gave me any extra travel.


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Hey trailwerks,
Could you please share your "long therm" insight with CC on the Smuggler?
Recomended settings?
Bottem out issues?
Cheers.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I upgrade from dvo topaz t3 shock do db il coil. big improvement. plus I don't need to put air in it before each ride. 

when adjusting the setting if I turn it clockwise is that closing the valve? 

Can you also please share your settings.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

rave81 said:


> I upgrade from dvo topaz t3 shock do db il coil. big improvement. plus I don't need to put air in it before each ride.
> 
> when adjusting the setting if I turn it clockwise is that closing the valve?
> 
> Can you also please share your settings.


Yes clockwise on the adjusters closes them.


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

The service sorted the knocking noise I had with my shock.


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

*DBCoil il CS on my Transition Smuggler 2017*

I would like to share the experience I have with new DBCoil IL on my 2017 Smuggler frame.
1st, you should forgive me for my English, it's not my mother tongue

Bit History:
I had a Transition Bandit 29 (great bike BTW), I replaced all the components with 2017 Smuggler after getting 50% off by TR through their "crash replacement" (cracked chain stay). New frame came without a shock. But the Bandit has same shocks size - it was a "Modified" RP23 XV Kashima that it's Boost-Valve removed and tuned to my weight and riding style (Singles, quite rocky with "flowing" drops up to 4 feet), So that Shocks installed on the new frame as well.
Bad Surprises:
Before my first ride, I set the SAG to 35% per TR recommendation and hit the trail, it felt BAD, very bumpy nervous ride, harsh, low traction, etc. I try several of rebound settings, SAG settings, and nothing helped. 
I bought a new Vorsprung CORESET air can with a bunch of air tokens (spacers) and over a month tried the get everything feeling "right", but without success, it bottom out or was too harsh (I try the Tokens with the Fox can as well), The CORSET had a 1-month trial, So it returned it to the shop (I must say that the owner Actually told me NOT to expect it will be as a coil  )
Having doubts:
In the past, I had a Santa Cruz Blur LT2 which I put a magnificent ELKA STAGE 5 coil shocks (Today's "MRP" I think...), so I know how Good shocks should feel... CORSET was not even close. Did a lot of browsing to find hints about "Smuggler with coil shocks" and seem to have not many in Google, on the way, I learned a lot about "bike kinematics" & "Leverage ratio"  So I had doubts what to do, the Smuggler's Leverage ratio is not MADE for Coil shocks, But it is (bit) progressive &#8230;
The two options where bad - to live with unsatisfying bikes or to sale the bike. 
Taking a chance:
I ordered the DBcoil with 450lb VALT spring ( I'm 186 pounds kitted), DU hardware swapped from the old Float, the SAG was 33% with 1.5 preload - Exactly what I need. Took some pictures and hit my "Test trail".
It was much much better right from the beginning, I reduce HSC/HSR to 1 but felt bottoming out next drop, so increased by half to 1.5 both HSC/HSR
No more bottoming out at that ride! 
I complete the test with those settings:
HSC 1.5, LSC 7, HSR 1.5, LSR 8
Next Day, I went to a different trail with a lot of technical climbs and long decedents and few G-outs, partially rocky & loose. It was amazing! Seems like the rear end is staggering to grub any bit of gravel to let you move on...
I never had a DH bike, but the cliché "descending like a mini DH bike" felt quite right. I think that the rear end also making life easier on the front side, due to the fact that the fork doesn't have to fight the rear nervous jumps all the time.
Yes, I had one time of harsh bottoming out, it was due to a deep ~6" trench which I bumped into - So it does not count 
On the other end, as some mentioned, the bikes have so much "planted" feeling which make the bike feels less "Happy" and less willing to let you airborne easily - I think, that I should learn how to use body weight shifting instead relying on the rear shock preloading for the jumps ...

I didn't have the opportunity to use the Climb Switch in those rides,
but when I tried to force the saddle down, it seems I couldn't feel any change of force to compress, but the rebound get veeeery slow.
It's not actually ON-OFF switch but acts as a lever which changing (LSC?
LSR) infinite.

As you probably already understood, for my application and riding style, 
The CC DBCoil il making my Smuggler a great bike and let me smile again!

Enjoy...
View attachment 1200096
]


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Stereo007,

For the fox spring on the CC , you can always use this adapter...

https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/cane-creek-coil-spring-converter-clip-for-fox-spri


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## NG13 (Dec 19, 2017)

after a couple of months of use, my CCDB IL's climb switch stopped working, and it began making a loud squelching/hissing noise when compressed.
I sent it for warranty repair to TFTuned in the UK. 3 weeks later it arrived back in exactly the same condition I sent it out in.
Climb switch still not working, loud hissing still audible.
I honestly don't know if they did any work on it.
Beyond frustrated now as I have several races in the next month that I'm going to miss.


----------



## Charlo489 (Apr 23, 2013)

All right so I'm in my 2nd season with the inline coil and I feel something's weird...I'm 162 lbs geared up on a devinci troy 2015 with a 550 lbs spring. No matter how much HSC or LSC I use, the bottom out bumper is always fully down after a run. I did some tests tonight in my driveway, setting both lsc and hsc fully in and then fully out and I don't notice much difference. My sag is supposed to be right according to two different people who measured the i2i lenght for me while I was on the bike. Do you guys always have the bottom out bumper at the end of the shaft ??


----------



## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

Charlo489 said:


> All right so I'm in my 2nd season with the inline coil and I feel something's weird...I'm 162 lbs geared up on a devinci troy 2015 with a 550 lbs spring. No matter how much HSC or LSC I use, the bottom out bumper is always fully down after a run. I did some tests tonight in my driveway, setting both lsc and hsc fully in and then fully out and I don't notice much difference. My sag is supposed to be right according to two different people who measured the i2i lenght for me while I was on the bike. Do you guys always have the bottom out bumper at the end of the shaft ??


Yes mine is always at bottom. If you measure the amount of shaft exposed it is always less than the useable stroke of the shock. That is because the bumpstop is designed to compress (almost to completely flat)


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

*Coil IL bottomout bumper*



teK-- said:


> Yes mine is always at bottom. If you measure the amount of shaft exposed it is always less than the useable stroke of the shock. That is because the bumpstop is designed to compress (almost to completely flat)


Hello,
I disagree. I took the bottomout bumper out and its 10mm thick and very hard.., can't see it compreses "to flat". If your "lavarage ratio" is ~2 at bottomout area, you lost 10mmx2=20mm of rear wheel travel.

I replaced this bumper with 12mm softer material which compresses to ~3mm under havy load. So the bottem out is more controlled and you have almost all your planed travel in rear wheel.


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## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

NETTA170 said:


> Hello,
> I disagree. I took the bottomout bumper out and its 10mm thick and very hard.., can't see it compreses "to flat". If your "lavarage ratio" is ~2 at bottomout area, you lost 10mmx2=20mm of rear wheel travel.
> 
> I replaced this bumper with 12mm softer material which compresses to ~3mm under havy load. So the bottem out is more controlled and you have almost all your planed travel in rear wheel.
> View attachment 1204373


Try compressing the bump stop with a 2.5-3.0 leverage ratio and at a high velocity.

The foam you used isn't going to do anything to protect the shock on the event of a bottom out.


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

*Hmmm...*

I'll put the argument into test today with a Vise...
I guess it will clarify everything


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## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

*CC Coil bottom out bumper*

So,
Squeezing in the vise original bumper & "homemade" one. Can't say the force, but can't move handle anymore without add lavarage on it.

You may see the difference.

Per Shore's "A" scale, the CC feels like ~70 (MTB Tyre is 55-65).

So, even with high leverage, I don't believe it will compresses by more than 3-4mm.


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## Little_twin (Feb 23, 2016)

NETTA170 said:


> So,
> Squeezing in the vise original bumper & "homemade" one. Can't say the force, but can't move handle anymore without add lavarage on it.
> 
> You may see the difference.
> ...


The rubber stop is also there to create some progressiveness to the end of the stroke. If you want more squish drill some small holes in the stock bump stop.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Charlo489 (Apr 23, 2013)

So in the end, if I have the correct sag, is it normal for the bumper stopper to always sit fully down on the shaft as soon I go downhill ? I don't feel any harsh bottom out or metal noise but I think I'm squishing the rubber very often, is that ok ?


----------



## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

NETTA170 said:


> So,
> Squeezing in the vise original bumper & "homemade" one. Can't say the force, but can't move handle anymore without add lavarage on it.
> 
> You may see the difference.
> ...


Nice test but you are compressing in a vice which has 2 flat faces. The shock body that contacts the bumpstop has perforations to allow further displacement of the bump stop:


----------



## Little_twin (Feb 23, 2016)

Charlo489 said:


> So in the end, if I have the correct sag, is it normal for the bumper stopper to always sit fully down on the shaft as soon I go downhill ? I don't feel any harsh bottom out or metal noise but I think I'm squishing the rubber very often, is that ok ?


It is fine. If you are happy with sag and the initial stroke but want a little more support to keep you off the bumper add a little high speed compression.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

Does anyone know the process and pressure for repressurizing the bladder?

I was fighting with mine today to get a spring off and in the process the top cap managed to unthread (it had bound with the upper eyelet), releasing what I assume to be the bladder's air pressure. I'd prefer to not have to send it in anywhere or do a full rebuild unless it's necessary.


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

*Progressive Spring for linear kinematics - Bottomout Solved!*

Hello guys, 
I ask for creating a progressive spring for my Cane Creek 190x51 on the Smuggler to manage the bottom out.

I asked the help from small springs company which doing it for motorbikes. After accepting the challenge, they came out with this beautiful piece of spring which works like magic! :thumbsup:

I did few of those springs (most of the cost was for the design anyway) and sold the redundancy in eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173623114169


----------



## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

NETTA170 said:


> Hello guys,
> I ask for creating a progressive spring for my Cane Creek 190x51 on the Smuggler to manage the bottom out.
> 
> I asked the help from small springs company which doing it for motorbikes. After accepting the challenge, they came out with this beautiful piece of spring which works like magic! :thumbsup:
> ...


Cool, looks like a mild rate change in the photo compared to some in years gone by. The graph says ~68-82 N/mm which is like 390-470 lb/in.

There's probably a solid market for progressive bike springs. They haven't been around much since Stratos collapsed.


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Thanks, Dougal 
:thumbsup:

Unfortunately, spring was tested up to 40mm stroke.
570 lb/inch is estimation per the graph.


----------



## davideb87 (Dec 13, 2017)

NETTA170 said:


> Hello guys,
> I ask for creating a progressive spring for my Cane Creek 190x51 on the Smuggler to manage the bottom out.
> 
> I asked the help from small springs company which doing it for motorbikes. After accepting the challenge, they came out with this beautiful piece of spring which works like magic!
> ...


Hyperpro?


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Sorry about the Confidentiality, but can't say which company.

Might start some business with them.

And a link to the last one I have:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173623114169


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

There is a good deal right now on the 200x50 version.
Can someone tell me if this shock has a removable travel spacer that gets it to 57mm stroke?


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

Answer is YES for the CC Coil IL!


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NETTA170 said:


> Answer is YES for the CC Coil IL!


Yes to my question?

I chatted with WWC about it and the guy said probably not.

But it has the same 200mm eye to eye so it would seem to me there has to be a spacer inthere.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Yes the 200x50 has a spacer that can be removed easily according to cane Creek which responded quickly by email today.

I found one at jensonusa for $289.

There's only 1 left at that price.

At that price you could buy it and sell for a decent profit.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Mine has the knock....black lever new from Jensonusa.

At first didn't care the shock is amazing compared to what I had (fox ctd).
Ive noticed it doesn't do it in colder weather 25-40 F. When it warms up though 45-65 F its annoying I can feel and hear it over any small pebble when seated.
I'm like how much worse will it be when it warms up?

And to be clear it makes the noise when it begins to move so it makes it when sagged or just me pushing the seat.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Charlo489 said:


> I have the 200x50 inline coil and read somewhere that it's possible to remove a spacer to increase the stroke to 57. Do you guys know where is that spacer ? All I would need is a new coil ?


It's a little plastic chip under the bottom out bumper. 
Remove the spring clip remove plastic spacer/chip replace spring clip done.


----------



## alsoran (May 13, 2018)

Got the knock on mine also think I'll give j-tech a ring this week see if there is a fix.


----------



## generator (Nov 13, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> It's a little plastic chip under the bottom out bumper.
> Remove the spring clip remove plastic spacer/chip replace spring clip done.











So, if I remove this white spacer on my 210x55 I get 57mm stroke?


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

generator said:


> View attachment 1235018
> 
> 
> So, if I remove this white spacer on my 210x55 I get 57mm stroke?


Looks like a 2mm spacer to me.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

seems my shock has developed a click whenever I sit down, climb switch on or off doesn't matter. 

Shock is only 5 rides old so very disappointing. Is this a common thing? What's the remedy?


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

brash said:


> seems my shock has developed a click whenever I sit down, climb switch on or off doesn't matter.
> 
> Shock is only 5 rides old so very disappointing. Is this a common thing? What's the remedy?


Known issue mine did it straight outta the box. I still bought it knowing this.

Sending it off for rebuild seems to do the trick for most.

Just ride it a few months then warranty it so you get a free rebuild.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Thanks,

One day Cane Creek will develop a product that last more than a month.... one day.



Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Known issue mine did it straight outta the box. I still bought it knowing this.
> 
> Sending it off for rebuild seems to do the trick for most.
> 
> Just ride it a few months then warranty it so you get a free rebuild.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Last night I noticed a rattling when I picked up the rear of my bike. Quickly realized the shock bolt linkage side was loose. So I tightened it up real good when I got home.

This morning I noticed the knock was back with my shock and realized suddenly where the knock was coming from.

I loosened it pushed down and no knock. I assume it gets worse with climb switch engaged simply because there is more resistance.

Anyway I'm just going to put a needle bear (wtf is a needle bear?) in that spot and hopefully be done with it.


----------



## bigbird (Nov 18, 2004)

So I finally took the plunge and got myself one. I’m riding a 2015 intense tracer 275c. my issue is I can’t get the vault coil compressed enough to get it on the shock I have a 2.25 x 650. yes I am a Clydesdale......anyone else had fitment issues with getting their spring onto the shock body? I used a vise and compressed it put zip ties on it but I can’t seem to compress it enough. my other concern is if I use the 2.25 it will already be under preload when I put it on the shock body. I’m thinking of getting a 2.0 but not sure if this will help.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

bigbird said:


> So I finally took the plunge and got myself one. I'm riding a 2015 intense tracer 275c. my issue is I can't get the vault coil compressed enough to get it on the shock I have a 2.25 x 650. yes I am a Clydesdale......anyone else had fitment issues with getting their spring onto the shock body? I used a vise and compressed it put zip ties on it but I can't seem to compress it enough. my other concern is if I use the 2.25 it will already be under preload when I put it on the shock body. I'm thinking of getting a 2.0 but not sure if this will help.


Had the same issue. 2.25x650 took a lot of zip ties, swearing and brute force to fit but I got it on somehow. Next time I'll take it to a motorcycle shop and let them use the proper tools.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Just thought I'de share my setup with you guys.

*CCDB COIL INLINE + SLS*
CaneCreek DBCoil inline (200x57): 253g
Fox SLS 2.25 x 400lbs: 188g
Total: *441g*
Bike: Yeti SB5.5
Travel: 140mm

Been riding this shock for 18 months straight with no service and it's rock solid ... touch wood!


----------



## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

digev said:


> Just thought I'de share my setup with you guys.
> 
> *CCDB COIL INLINE + SLS*
> CaneCreek DBCoil inline (200x57): 253g
> ...


You should really get it serviced! I was at 10m and had a trip coming up and some scheduled down-time, so I sent it in...
Dyno showed my shock was much more clapped out than I thought it was from riding it. Fresh service brought back the midstroke damping and really made a world of difference.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

You're probably right, thank you for sharing that info!

Knowing I'm way past the recommended 100h service by a long shot (I'd say at least 5 times that ahahaha) it'd be sensible to do it before the season is in full swing ...


----------



## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

I'm getting a strange squeal from my DB Inline. Is this normal when the climb switch is on?


----------



## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

not normal - warranty repair if within warranty I guess or get it serviced.


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## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

POAH said:


> not normal - warranty repair if within warranty I guess or get it serviced.


Thank you! CC relied super fast and said there's definitely air in the system and not normal. They think that the seals could have gotten dry in the warehouse (I bought it from Jenson) and air could have entered.


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

Hello everyone i just received my cc coil 200x57 on a 450lbs volt spring. on my intense primer which has a recluse link to up the travel. So my question is does anyone have any tips on how to set this thing up I want it plus. Preload is set for 27-28ish sag. Ive been skipping over the rocks instead of feeling that coil feel everyone talks about. I weigh 180-185lbs on stock settings.
Any suggestions?


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

oftheworld said:


> Hello everyone i just received my cc coil 200x57 on a 450lbs volt spring. on my intense primer which has a recluse link to up the travel. So my question is does anyone have any tips on how to set this thing up I want it plus. Preload is set for 27-28ish sag. Ive been skipping over the rocks instead of feeling that coil feel everyone talks about. I weigh 180-185lbs on stock settings.
> Any suggestions?


Hi!

I'm about 180lbs ready to ride.

My settings on a 200x57 + VALT 400lbs (Yeti SB5.5 140mm) are:

From Closed:

HSC: 3.5 turns
LSC: 18 clicks (full open)
HSR: 1 turn
LSR: 12 clicks
Preload: 1 turn

Hope this will help you!!

Other tips are:

1) - tire pressure (very important)
2) - Quick Tune Sheet: http://www.canecreek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/DB_Quick-tune_Sheet.pdf (very handy to tweak your shock like you want it to feel)


----------



## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

I went with the Vorsprung method. Their videos are extremely helpful in understanding the suspension. Use as little preload as possible. His video has a good explanation as to why. 

Crank your HSR all the way in and use LSR to dial it in. If you need it faster, only then do you touch the HSR to bring the whole "curve" up. 

Then for compression I backed both HSC and LSC all the way out and rode. I had a little bob do I added 3 clicks of LSC. After a few rides I added 1 turn of HSC to help bottom out. 

I ended up as...
HSC: 1 turn
LSC: 3 clicks 
HSR: 4.5 turns 
LSR: 12 clicks 
Preload: 1 turn

Edit: forgot to say I'm on a 190x50 shock with my Yeti SB4.5. 195lbs. 500lb spring. I know it's not the same exact shock as you, but try out this method. It really helped me out.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Cool method! Thanks for sharing it!

Is your setup from closed or open?


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

digev said:


> Hi!
> 
> I'm about 180lbs ready to ride.
> 
> ...


Sweet thanks ill keep messing with this then hope i can find it soon before i give up


----------



## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

digev said:


> Cool method! Thanks for sharing it!
> 
> Is your setup from closed or open?


From open


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I used the vorsprung method also.
Watching the video on YouTube will help you understand the shock better also.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

barefootdan said:


> From open


Thank you


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

oftheworld said:


> Sweet thanks ill keep messing with this then hope i can find it soon before i give up


And if at some point you want to make it a lot lighter, have a look at the Fox SLS. It's compatible and it works great ... once you've found the right setting ... which is different than with the VALT (I'm about to post the working settings for my bike and terrain with the SLS)

https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/coil-shock-lighter-than-air-1099309.html


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

Do any of you have a noticeable hard topout, specifically when applying hand pressure on the seat an inch or so and then lifting up. I've brought my shock to the local tuner here and he told that on his equipment the damping seems fine and there is a sufficient gas charge. It might just be spring-rate and leverage-rate related plus there is not much of a topout bumper in these shocks.

It's not hardware related and I can eliminate it if I slow down the rebound dramatically but then it's too slow for riding.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

coolatt said:


> Do any of you have a noticeable hard topout, specifically when applying hand pressure on the seat an inch or so and then lifting up. I've brought my shock to the local tuner here and he told that on his equipment the damping seems fine and there is a sufficient gas charge. It might just be spring-rate and leverage-rate related plus there is not much of a topout bumper in these shocks.
> 
> It's not hardware related and I can eliminate it if I slow down the rebound dramatically but then it's too slow for riding.


It might sound stupid but it may be your coil! Add a few more turns of preload and do the same test again.

Do you still hear/feel that noise?!


----------



## coolatt (May 18, 2004)

digev said:


> It might sound stupid but it may be your coil! Add a few more turns of preload and do the same test again.
> 
> Do you still hear/feel that noise?![/QUOT
> 
> I've had 2 springs on it, one with some preload and one with barley any and the topout was there on both. What part of the coil might cause this?


----------



## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

coolatt said:


> Do any of you have a noticeable hard topout, specifically when applying hand pressure on the seat an inch or so and then lifting up. I've brought my shock to the local tuner here and he told that on his equipment the damping seems fine and there is a sufficient gas charge. It might just be spring-rate and leverage-rate related plus there is not much of a topout bumper in these shocks.
> 
> It's not hardware related and I can eliminate it if I slow down the rebound dramatically but then it's too slow for riding.


Can you feel it on the trail? This is not uncommon for twin tube coil shocks as there is no top out system apart from a rubber or foam bumper. Most other shocks either have a hydraulic system that closes of LS oil flow or there is enough negative air pressure to stop movement before the hard stop


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

coolatt said:


> digev said:
> 
> 
> > It might sound stupid but it may be your coil! Add a few more turns of preload and do the same test again.
> ...


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

*Possible problem*

Whats up guys new to the coil game so bear with me... I just purchased a dbcoil (il) in 200x57 format. I have had two rides on it and I was wondering if this is normal. When I remove All the preload on my shock obviously the spring is loose and is able to move up and down freely a few mm. But if I compress the bike without any preload on the shock. The shock will stay stuck down in its travel and the spring no longer moves up and down freely making it seem like I already preloaded the shock.

So if I leave it with no preload and I pull up on the frame I gain those few mm I had lost and the spring moves free again

Hope this makes sense and please let me know if it's normal.

I have a video of it but not sure how to post it:/


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Open all the settings and see if it does the same thing.
I would not worry too much about it to be honest ... go ride your bike


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

Everything is open. I just want to know should it stay compressed or does it need the spring to return??


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

How many mm are we talking about?!


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

Take all the preload off your shock. And move the coil up and down. It should move freely a few mm. Well thats how much.

But if you press the bike down into the spring the bike will stay compressed against the spring unless not needing any preload

So is it supposed to return. By itself all the way or is spring needed


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

oftheworld said:


> Whats up guys new to the coil game so bear with me... I just purchased a dbcoil (il) in 200x57 format. I have had two rides on it and I was wondering if this is normal. When I remove All the preload on my shock obviously the spring is loose and is able to move up and down freely a few mm. But if I compress the bike without any preload on the shock. The shock will stay stuck down in its travel and the spring no longer moves up and down freely making it seem like I already preloaded the shock.
> 
> So if I leave it with no preload and I pull up on the frame I gain those few mm I had lost and the spring moves free again
> 
> ...


Unless I'm misunderstanding your issue, seems this normal - but what you need to do is completely unweight the rear suspension/rear wheel. Take up all free space with the pre-load collar with the rear end unweighted. Better yet dial in just about 1/4 turn of preload with the rear end completely unweighted. You need at least a small amount of preload on the spring to keep it snug.

Let us know how that goes.


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

Just called cc they said it should return to full travel without preload. So it may have lost nitrogen somehow.they said to return it

If you got fb msgr i can send video


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

You probably lost the N2 Pressure inside the Bladder ...
The shock should return to its full travel without load after a few seconds.


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

exactly. so the remedy is to have the the bike filled with oil again. and nitro set to 175 and it'll fix the problem according to what cc told my LBS


----------



## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

is the climb switch incremental, or straight on/off?


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

It called "switch". but feels more as continuous change. I'm not really trying to investigate how because I never actually use it...


----------



## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

How much stiffer is 50lb difference in spring rate? Should I go up? 

Preliminary ride on my coil IL on a #400 pound spring: (calculators recommended 350-400#, I'm 145-150lbs for reference)
* ~27% sag at 1-2 preload, I liked my air shock at 25-26% for comparison sake
* Running a fair bit of compression- HSC: 3, LSC: 10
* Bottoming frequently but not violently, my frame is single pivot and quite linear kinematic. For example on the parking lot test bunny hopping 1-2 foot off curb I can bottom out. 
* Generally tend to blow through the first part of travel- would like more support 

There's obviously a lot of tuning option to try out so I'm not giving up on #400 yet, but wondering what the consensus is for those who like a more supportive ride.


----------



## NETTA170 (Sep 20, 2010)

HSC 3 is very high IMO. 
Which bike (year&model) do you ride?


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Anyone tuned this shock the “vorsprung” way... 

As in Close high speed rebound all the way and then fine Tune via low speed rebound.

I’ll be honest. This is my first 4 way adjustable shock and it’s taking a long time to get just right.

19 stumpjumper Evo 
57mm stroke, 650lb 2.25 spring.


----------



## generator (Nov 13, 2008)

brash said:


> Anyone tuned this shock the "vorsprung" way...
> 
> As in Close high speed rebound all the way and then fine Tune via low speed rebound.
> 
> ...


I have currently set up my CC inline on 27.5 EVO in 57mm stroke, 450lb, 2.25 spring (around 33% sag) set from fully open with:
6 LSR
4 LSC
1 turn 3/4 HSC
1 turn 3/4 HSR. 
For faster riding I would add a turn or two of HSC probably. I try to set up the bike as plush/supple as I can, but rear end is still sort of "hard" on the legs.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Thanks for that.

Coming from a Downhill background I'm finding it difficult to get a similar feel, obviously it's not a DH bike. I want ultimate grip. Not worried about pop or playful manners.

I'll try your setup as a starting point however.



generator said:


> I have currently set up my CC inline on 27.5 EVO in 57mm stroke, 450lb, 2.25 spring (around 33% sag) set from fully open with:
> 6 LSR
> 4 LSC
> 1 turn 3/4 HSC
> ...


----------



## generator (Nov 13, 2008)

Same with me...DH background, want the bike to be glued to the ground


----------



## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

brash said:


> Anyone tuned this shock the "vorsprung" way...
> 
> As in Close high speed rebound all the way and then fine Tune via low speed rebound.
> 
> ...


The IL is slightly different and doesn't behave quite in a way that the vorsprung method intends. Usually changing lsr affects the whole range but in this case the HS sets the opening force and that stays fixed regardless of LS position.

In saying that with a 650 spring you will be wanting both rebound adjusters pretty close to closed. Maybe still start with hsr closed and set lsr to what feels good (eg oscillates once or twice after a bounce) then try backing out the hsr until it feels too fast then go back in 1/2 a turn.

After that, leave LSC in the middle and bracket your HSC by trying it full closed, full hard and the middle. One of those will feel much better than the others so you can go to there and bracket it down further again.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Thanks Johnny. My thoughts were the same regarding the rebound. On my Dh bike with a ohlins Ttx I have rebound closed completely for the tougher tracks. 

Been a bigger boy (105kg) I need a heavy spring and a lot of shocks are obviously not bell curved around that sort of rider weight.

I’ve gone coil up front on the stumpy (smashpot conversion) hopefully I’ll find that sense of confidence I get on my S-works demo with fox 40’s. I feel like I can throw myself into any section with complete confidence. Finding the same feeling on a trailbike (with even more progressive geo) is not been easy.


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

WHats up man im about to try the vorsprung way. hsr full closed. very minimal amount of preload 200x57 with 450spring on intense primer with reculse link..

im going to do lsc 2 clicks since the bike pedals great and doesnt need a platform
then lsr ima start off with full closed and then open it up (counter clockwise) while doing the curb test.
hsc will be one full turn or half as i have not bottomed out or maybe i dont know what the bottom out feels like.



brash said:


> Anyone tuned this shock the "vorsprung" way...
> 
> As in Close high speed rebound all the way and then fine Tune via low speed rebound.
> 
> ...


----------



## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

Quoting my post from earlier about the vorsprung method on my yeti sb4.5. 

"3 Weeks Ago
I went with the Vorsprung method. Their videos are extremely helpful in understanding the suspension. Use as little preload as possible. His video has a good explanation as to why. 

Crank your HSR all the way in and use LSR to dial it in. If you need it faster, only then do you touch the HSR to bring the whole "curve" up. 

Then for compression I backed both HSC and LSC all the way out and rode. I had a little bob do I added 3 clicks of LSC. After a few rides I added 1 turn of HSC to help bottom out. 

I ended up as...
HSC: 1 turn
LSC: 3 clicks 
HSR: 4.5 turns 
LSR: 12 clicks 
Preload: 1 turn

Edit: forgot to say I'm on a 190x50 shock with my Yeti SB4.5. 195lbs. 500lb spring. I know it's not the same exact shock as you, but try out this method. It really helped me out."

I emailed vorsprung with questions when I originally got the shock and they never mentioned this shock being different from others.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

I think with my spring rate I’m going to need the rebound wound right in anyway so it may be the best starting point. I love a super plush rear that just devours bumps with ultimate compliance and grip. The way I see it my bunny hop and jumping skill is competent enough not to rely on the suspension to do the work. 

Just got to wait for the weekend now to give it a go


----------



## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

barefootdan said:


> Quoting my post from earlier about the vorsprung method on my yeti sb4.5.
> 
> "3 Weeks Ago
> I went with the Vorsprung method. Their videos are extremely helpful in understanding the suspension. Use as little preload as possible. His video has a good explanation as to why.
> ...


Yeah I maybe didn't explain it quite right, the vorsprung method is still the easiest way to go about it, but with other shocks you can get it pretty good while leaving hsr closed, whereas the dbil will need the hsr backed out in more cases than other shocks


----------



## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

gfourth said:


> How much stiffer is 50lb difference in spring rate? Should I go up?
> 
> Preliminary ride on my coil IL on a #400 pound spring: (calculators recommended 350-400#, I'm 145-150lbs for reference)
> * ~27% sag at 1-2 preload, I liked my air shock at 25-26% for comparison sake
> ...


I'm 100lb over what the calculators suggest on a 216x63mm shock. you need a stiffer spring. I'd go for a 500lb one.


----------



## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

POAH said:


> I'm 100lb over what the calculators suggest on a 216x63mm shock. you need a stiffer spring. I'd go for a 500lb one.


Yeah I'm beginning to think a 50lb increase won't be enough. Calculator doesn't take into account my linear frame kinematic.


----------



## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

oftheworld said:


> WHats up man im about to try the vorsprung way.


I tried this with both the DBCoil IL and DBAir IL in various sizes and it didn't work out for me. I don't know nearly as much about tuning as Steve does, not even in the ballpark, but I found that keeping the HSR closed off it resulted in a shock that was wallowy and unresponsive, particularly when unweighting the bike or on successive deep stroke hits. I can't explain the discrepancy, unless it has to do with shock stroke, part of me wonders if longer stroke shocks require more HSR to control returns from deeper in the stroke (anyone wanna comment?).

Particularly on a coil, I think you need to keep it a bit more open to keep it from packing up and the HSR isn't having to compensate for the higher return speed from hitting the ramp point of the shock. Again, totally my speculation and observation, someone with more experience may say this is incorrect.

Most of my bikes have been shorter stroke, mid-travel bikes (50mm stroke). I'm heavier @220 geared up, I rode with a 500 or 550 spring on both coils I owned and I am running about 250psi in the air. I found the Cane Creek recommendations to be close for the HSR setting, I think it was 2 turns out from closed. I've tested the return from bottom out several times and never felt like I was getting bucked, pushed forward, or thrown off.


----------



## oftheworld (Dec 6, 2016)

im not sure. I'm 180lbs on a 450 spring 57mm stroke

But i havent tried the method yet on the trail. If you feel that its packing up they say to open up the hsr a bit.. Id go half turn until you are happy with it. So close lsr to full closed as well and open it 5 clicks at a time until its too responsive. Then slow it down 2 clicks

Well this is going to be my method haha so lets see how it works...Honeslty its cool and annyoing to have this many settings I cant dial it in yet



Adodero said:


> I tried this with both the DBCoil IL and DBAir IL in various sizes and it didn't work out for me. I don't know nearly as much about tuning as Steve does, not even in the ballpark, but I found that keeping the HSR closed off it resulted in a shock that was wallowy and unresponsive, particularly when unweighting the bike or on successive deep stroke hits. I can't explain the discrepancy, unless it has to do with shock stroke, part of me wonders if longer stroke shocks require more HSR to control returns from deeper in the stroke (anyone wanna comment?).
> 
> Particularly on a coil, I think you need to keep it a bit more open to keep it from packing up and the HSR isn't having to compensate for the higher return speed from hitting the ramp point of the shock. Again, totally my speculation and observation, someone with more experience may say this is incorrect.
> 
> Most of my bikes have been shorter stroke, mid-travel bikes (50mm stroke). I'm heavier @220 geared up, I rode with a 500 or 550 spring on both coils I owned and I am running about 250psi in the air. I found the Cane Creek recommendations to be close for the HSR setting, I think it was 2 turns out from closed. I've tested the return from bottom out several times and never felt like I was getting bucked, pushed forward, or thrown off.


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

I spent a day tuning it today and it’s still frustrating me. 

Small bump compliance is ok. The more janky hits and faster chop it just feels harsh, hsc is all but backed off. When I over shoot a landing It’s harsh. 

It’s like the first 40% of the travel is plush, but then ramps up very fast or something? I don’t think I’m bottoming out. 

I’m hitting 30% sag with about 1/4 turn preload to stop rattling. So I’m doing that right. 

I have a 600lb spring here to try. Only thing is this spring is near impossible to get off, I need a spring compressor to get enough space to remove the clip! 

105kg rider weight 
650lb spring 
30% sag (seated)

4 clicks lsc
5 clicks lsr
Half turn hsr
1 turn hsc.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok so I'm on a 200/57 getting 22mm sag on a vault 350# 2.25 spring.

I need a higher spring rate should I go #375 or 400?

Also I want to run a fox sls they make only 2.50-2.75 375# spring or a 2.25 400#.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

brash said:


> I spent a day tuning it today and it's still frustrating me.
> 
> Small bump compliance is ok. The more janky hits and faster chop it just feels harsh, hsc is all but backed off. When I over shoot a landing It's harsh.
> 
> ...


Ya I'm having the same feeling it ramps hard. I went as far as to cut 2/3 of the button out bumper off. Made a small difference but 95% of the time it doesn't use full travel and still feels real hard at the end.

It's the opposite of the air shock I had which was choppy off the top but felt a cloud in the end ramp.

I contacted cc about a possible oil change and they recommend a compression shim tune.

I know that's going to cost me out the ass. Is there anyone cheaper then Cane Creek that can do this for me?


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

brash said:


> I spent a day tuning it today and it's still frustrating me.
> 
> Small bump compliance is ok. The more janky hits and faster chop it just feels harsh, hsc is all but backed off. When I over shoot a landing It's harsh.
> 
> ...


Are you measuring from closed or open?


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ok so I'm on a 200/57 getting 22mm sag on a vault 350# 2.25 spring.
> 
> I need a higher spring rate should I go #375 or 400?
> 
> Also I want to run a fox sls they make only 2.50-2.75 375# spring or a 2.25 400#.


I'm not sure what your wheel travel is, so I'm not sure what the resulting sag is. I wouldn't be too afraid to run a lot less sag, or even throw sag completely out the window. Because of how soft it is off the top, less friction, and without the ramp up of air I wouldn't be surprised if there was a lot more 'dynamic sag' while riding.

Based off of this and your other reply it's entirely possible that you are blowing through your travel and the harshness you're feeling is the bottom out. The higher spring rate could keep you off the bumper and let you use travel more efficiently and be less harsh.

The 375# is 7% more spring rate, the 350# is 14% more. I prefer higher spring rates and supportive mid stroke to keep me high in travel.

I find the 2.25 Valts are kind of difficult to get on my 210 x 55. I imagine the other 2.4-2.75 would be a complete nightmare. I have a 400x2.25 Valt if you are interested I'd let it go for pretty cheap. Used it once, way too soft. 450 is still too soft, so I'm at 500 now. My kinematic is very linear so I'm having trouble not bottoming it out.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> I'm not sure what your wheel travel is, so I'm not sure what the resulting sag is. I wouldn't be too afraid to run a lot less sag, or even throw sag completely out the window. Because of how soft it is off the top, less friction, and without the ramp up of air I wouldn't be surprised if there was a lot more 'dynamic sag' while riding.
> 
> Based off of this and your other reply it's entirely possible that you are blowing through your travel and the harshness you're feeling is the bottom out. The higher spring rate could keep you off the bumper and let you use travel more efficiently and be less harsh.
> 
> ...


 Yes that's why I want to go up on spring rate before having a retune done.

I was wanting a sls because about 130 grams lighter then vault but if your price is right I'll buy it just to make sure 400 is what I need.

Edit I'm in a Intense recluse @140mm travel I weigh 145lbs.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Yes that's why I want to go up on spring rate before having a retune done.
> 
> I was wanting a sls because about 130 grams lighter then vault but if your price is right I'll buy it just to make sure 400 is what I need.
> 
> Edit I'm in a Intense recluse @140mm travel I weigh 145lbs.


Gotcha, I guess I could have figured out sag from the numbers you gave me. 38%? if my math is correct. IMO you're on way too soft of a spring rate, especially for coil, even if your frame kinematic is super progressive.

I'm tempted to send you both the 400 and 450 to experiment with! You should definitely try the 400# first, IMO get your spring rate right, get your dials in the ball park, then contemplate oil or custom shim stack if you've exhausted all options. I know it's frustrating and $$$ to be trying all these springs. Sending you a PM


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Adodero said:


> Are you measuring from closed or open?


From open. Opposite to what I'm used to but this is how cane creek seem to explain it.

If it is indeed spring rate too low, can't do much as I've never seen a 700+ lb spring.


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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

brash said:


> I spent a day tuning it today and it's still frustrating me.
> 
> Small bump compliance is ok. The more janky hits and faster chop it just feels harsh, hsc is all but backed off. When I over shoot a landing It's harsh.
> 
> ...


I would be trying more HSC, not less. Also your rebound looks way too fast so I would address that first. It should oscillate once or twice after a bounce then settle at sag


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

JohnnyC7 said:


> I would be trying more HSC, not less. Also your rebound looks way too fast so I would address that first. It should oscillate once or twice after a bounce then settle at sag


Thanks, I'm actually in the bush now trying things out. Gave your suggestion a go and much better. Square edge hits are much better controlled.

I'm starting to think it's spring rate too high maybe? It just doesn't have that plush feeling that 160mm or travel should have. Or am I comparing this to much to my downhill bike?

It's like it's skipping over the terrain, not absorbing it.


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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

Since you’ve got a 600 I would definitely try it just to see


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

JohnnyC7 said:


> Since you've got a 600 I would definitely try it just to see


half the battle is getting this spring off! You need a spring compressor.

The 2.25 springs are about the same length as the shock body, no preload at all and the spring clip is near impossible to get in/out.

I used 50 zip ties to get it on, not my proudest home mechanic effort 

the 600 is a few Millimeters shorter, hopefully not as difficult to get on.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

brash said:


> half the battle is getting this spring off! You need a spring compressor.
> 
> The 2.25 springs are about the same length as the shock body, no preload at all and the spring clip is near impossible to get in/out.
> 
> ...


I think that is the downside to the IL design, the dials eat up a lot of area that would normally be extra threading and space for using 2.4"+ springs. The way I get the 2.25" springs off my 210x55 zip tie the spring as I'm sitting on the bike before removing the shock. I imagine you've tried similar and I bet the 600+ springs are a nightmare.


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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

brash said:


> half the battle is getting this spring off! You need a spring compressor.
> 
> The 2.25 springs are about the same length as the shock body, no preload at all and the spring clip is near impossible to get in/out.
> 
> ...


Flathead screwdriver. Tape up the head and rest it under the eyelet between the gap in the spring seat, lever down and slide the spring seat off


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

So after 4 springs on my 210x55 IL I finally found the right spring rate. I'm 145 lbs on a very linear 140mm single pivot. MRP coil 150mm up front. 

(All 2.25" Valt's)

1. #400 • 317g • 27% Sag. Way too soft, blowing through all travel, bottoming on everything even with max compression. Harsh 

2. #450 • 348g • 23% sag. Definitely an improvement over the #400 but still had all the same characteristics- no mid stroke support, still bottomed easily. Harsh, dead feeling 

3. #500 • 359g • 23% sag. This was strange, same sag as #450 and behaved exactly the same. Huge let down. 

4. #500 • 370g • 21% sag. Had a hunch so bought another. This one weighed more, sagged less, felt stiffer. This one was a night and day difference out on the trail. Buttery off the top, supportive mid stroke- felt more lively and gave me a lot more control of the bike. Still bottomed but not harshly- didn't notice bottom out till I looked at bumper. I still have wiggle room on compression.

Settings for #500 spring that I didn't have to touch at all:
HSC 3 (may add more for bottom out protection)
LSC 10 (may add more)
HSR 4.5 (Vorsprung way, opened it up on some of the other weights and was getting bucked off lips)
LSR 6


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

JohnnyC7 said:


> Flathead screwdriver. Tape up the head and rest it under the eyelet between the gap in the spring seat, lever down and slide the spring seat off


Thanks legend that worked a treat! 600 went on without any effort. Just did a quick driveway test and much better. Rolled off a few curbs and roots around the place and noticeably better tracking of the ground. Thredbo this weekend so I'm very interested to see how it goes


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

I was all set to buy this shock, then found this thread and it seems to be an absolute nightmare in terms of reliability.

Chirping, clunking, losing nitrogen pressure, cavitating. Good lord. Has Cane Creek sorted all this out yet? Some of the comments are from early 2019 so it seems not?

Is there something similar I performance but more reliable?


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

I just bought one and it's perfectly fine. Yelp effect. This is a message board where people come in with their problems and hardly reflective of what the majority is experiencing.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

matto6 said:


> I was all set to buy this shock, then found this thread and it seems to be an absolute nightmare in terms of reliability.
> 
> Chirping, clunking, losing nitrogen pressure, cavitating. Good lord. Has Cane Creek sorted all this out yet? Some of the comments are from early 2019 so it seems not?
> 
> Is there something similar I performance but more reliable?


Pretty much all my riding buddies rock this shock and I have too for the past 2 years, 3/4 times a week on fast rocky terrains and not a single issue with it. I honestly don't see myself changing anytime soon because it's so damn good and reliable! Fit and forget.

There's plenty of other options out there, if you don't feel like it ... don't buy one ... Just saying


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## generator (Nov 13, 2008)

I have a small issue with he shock. While riding - at extension (rebound), it tops out...sounds like clunking. Not while compressed, but at full extension. Otherwise it seems to work normal. Just this "metal sound"...


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

generator said:


> I have a small issue with he shock. While riding - at extension (rebound), it tops out...sounds like clunking. Not while compressed, but at full extension. Otherwise it seems to work normal. Just this "metal sound"...


Could be the spring knocking, add a few more turns of preload to see if it still makes that noise. Just to test


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## generator (Nov 13, 2008)

digev said:


> Could be the spring knocking, add a few more turns of preload to see if it still makes that noise. Just to test


No. It's not the spring.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

digev said:


> Pretty much all my riding buddies rock this shock and I have too for the past 2 years, 3/4 times a week on fast rocky terrains and not a single issue with it. I honestly don't see myself changing anytime soon because it's so damn good and reliable! Fit and forget.
> 
> There's plenty of other options out there, if you don't feel like it ... don't buy one ... Just saying


My IL, after a lot of hard miles, developed a bit of an oil leak. Called CC and price and turn around (needed a routine service anyway) was great.

No bike or part is 100% bomb proof. I've found this IL to be very reliable, and better yet, CC is easy and fast to deal with.

I'd buy this shock again in a minute - and I like it so much when looking for a frame to build up I check to see if it can take the IL coil.

Seemed to me the issues with the IL were related to the air spring version, not the coil. Sounds like CC got that worked out.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Miker J said:


> I'd buy this shock again in a minute - and I like it so much when looking for a frame to build up I check to see if it can take the IL coil.


Same here


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

I ordered one.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

matto6 said:


> I ordered one.


You will love it, no doubt 

Do not hesitate to ask for pointers about settings etc... if you want!

Have fun!


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

So because I have a 2019 stumpy with one of these shocks on it Cane Creek seem to think the lateral loads on the yoke will make it explode. So far so good but they have offered me another shock for a price too good to pass up to their credit. 

So I can choose between the following. 

DB air IL
DB air CS
DB Coil CS. 

I’m leaning towards one of the air shocks as 1. Already have a coil shock 2. Would like some in built progression for bike park days etc. 

Out of the two air options which would you choose? A $50 surcharge for the air CS is the only caveat. 

Can the cs be compared to a fox x2 at all? I really like that shock as it’s the closest I’ve ridden to a coil as far as small bump compliance. 

Sorry for the thread detail, it’s relatively on topic considering it’s cane creek and there are some very knowledgeable people in this thread. 

Cheers.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

DBair CS without a doubt! If you liked the X2 you’ll love this one too.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> Gotcha, I guess I could have figured out sag from the numbers you gave me. 38%? if my math is correct. IMO you're on way too soft of a spring rate, especially for coil, even if your frame kinematic is super progressive.
> 
> I'm tempted to send you both the 400 and 450 to experiment with! You should definitely try the 400# first, IMO get your spring rate right, get your dials in the ball park, then contemplate oil or custom shim stack if you've exhausted all options. I know it's frustrating and $$$ to be trying all these springs. Sending you a PM


 Thanks just got the spring 20 min ago go it on no probs.

Ya I'm at 20mm/57mm (20 sitting 17mm standing) I'll probably want the 450# let me give it an actual go on my goto trail before I send this one back.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

brash said:


> So because I have a 2019 stumpy with one of these shocks on it Cane Creek seem to think the lateral loads on the yoke will make it explode. So far so good but they have offered me another shock for a price too good to pass up to their credit.
> 
> So I can choose between the following.
> 
> ...


Whichever you pick going with the CS on a CC is like listening to Zeppelin without Page. CCs version of a CS, which hits both compression and rebound, is far better than a simple switch that only effects compression.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Thanks just got the spring 20 min ago go it on no probs.
> 
> Ya I'm at 20mm/57mm (20 sitting 17mm standing) I'll probably want the 450# let me give it an actual go on my goto trail before I send this one back.


How'd it go?


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## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Miker J said:


> Whichever you pick going with the CS on a CC is like listening to Zeppelin without Page. CCs version of a CS, which hits both compression and rebound, is far better than a simple switch that only effects compression.


Ended up going with the DB air Cs in 210x55. Very keen to try it out. I'm much happier with the IL Coil now I have it tuned better. The DB stuff has so much adjustment it is very easy to make a shock worse. But it has the scope to turn it into something very personalised that you can't get near with other brands. The fox high/low speed stuff doesn't have the same tuning scope compared to the cane creek.

Reliability, so far it's still going lol. (Knocks on wood)


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> How'd it go?


 Haven't been out just finished my work week. And the weather doesn't want to cooperate the next three days (my days off).
Trail was really wet last week don't want to potentially damage it more with another wet ride.

I think I'm just going to buy the 450 off you. I'll send you a pm later.


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## andrealoverde84 (May 2, 2019)

Hello Guys,

I have recently bought a Merida eOne Sixty 800 which descents amazingly!
I'm a quite aggressive rider and I would like to replace my stock shock with a CC double barrel coil CS (I know for.sure it will fit my bike).

I'm going crazy with the spring... And at this stage I can't do anything but relying on your support.

I'm almost 88 kg / 195 lbs ready to ride.
The frame travel is 160mm and the original.shock size is 205x65 trunnion mount.

Would you please help me in clarifying the following?

1) is my frame more on the linear or progressive side?

2) Cane Creek is listing as compatible both 2.75 and 3.0 springs in terms of length. What length should I choose and why?

3) based on my weight, which spring rate should I start with? 500 would be fine?

Thank you very much and greetings from Italy!


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## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

andrealoverde84 said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I have recently bought a Merida eOne Sixty 800 which descents amazingly!
> I'm a quite aggressive rider and I would like to replace my stock shock with a CC double barrel coil CS (I know for.sure it will fit my bike).
> ...


1. Quoting the great Antonio Osuna "...Leverage Ratio we see how the system is of the Linear-Progressive type (2.6 ~ 2.65 ~ 2.35). Simplifying a bit we can say that the system has a fairly smooth progressivity,..."

2. I'm not sure about this. But from experience, 2.75 will be easier to mount. They will all have the same lb/in so I don't see an issue going either way. Perhaps you can find a spring size cheaper in one of those.

3. I have a fairly similar bike progressivity (although 114mm of travel) and also 195lbs. I went 500. Definitely wouldn't go lighter.

Hope this helps!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

While finding the right spring rate is not difficult it is crucial, here's my tip.

- if you think you need a 500lbs, also buy the 450 and 550. (The cheap steel version, don't buy a VALT just yet)
- once received, wrap both ends of the springs with «*plastic food wrap*» to protect the spring so you can send them back in perfect condition if the SAG is not right or after a quick ride to test them.
- Try the 3 and mesure your SAG (allows to narrow down what rate is right for your weight / bike)

1) - If you end up with more than 1 «*acceptable*» spring rate ... go out and compare them. As long as they are still wrapped in plastics at the end you still can send them back
2) - if you end up with just one, do the same ... you might be surprised and find out that it's a bit too harsh and maybe you want to go down 1 spring or it's too soft and you want to go up 1 spring ... if you have it already great, if not buy it and test it.

At the end of the «*spring testing phase*» you can keep the one you like and send the others back for a refund or send them all back and buy a lighter VALT. That way you won't have any regrets knowing you've tested the whole range.

Be thorough with your tests. Write down the rate, the CCDB settings, your comments / feedbacks and do always the same loop.

Coil shocks are super great but you need to get that first «*spring rate*» right or you'll chase your tail with the settings.

Sometimes you have less SAG than «*required*» for example but when you test the bike it still feels great, supportive and poppy while filtering chatter and adding grip. Just to say that SAG is a starting point but once you've ruled out ridiculous numbers (like for ex: 50% or 10%) if 2 are very close, go test them!

PS: I agree with the 2.75 comment, it will be easier to install (no need to compress it will be shorter) and a bit lighter too. Win-Win!

RES: Test all the springs with 1 full turn of preload. You don't care about adding 2 more turns to hit the perfect 17.5mm required to get the perfect 30% SAG. The less preload you add the better


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## barefootdan (Oct 6, 2008)

Totally agree with digev. Don't worry much about sag (unless it's super extreme). As long as it feels good. That is more important. Makes me wanna try a 550!


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Anyone running the Opt remote with their Coil? I quite like the climb switch as it makes a huge difference on my bike. Debating on the remote...

Also, I think the Ohlins springs are a nice option. I picked up a 525lb x 2.25 for cheap and it's only 300g. My 500 Valt is 370 grams. The Ohlins spring is a little thinner and shorter also (makes it easier to install on my 210x55 IL Coil). Haven't mounted it but just a heads up for those who want an option in between Valt and Fox.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

gfourth said:


> Anyone running the Opt remote with their Coil? I quite like the climb switch as it makes a huge difference on my bike. Debating on the remote...
> 
> Also, I think the Ohlins springs are a nice option. I picked up a 525lb x 2.25 for cheap and it's only 300g. My 500 Valt is 370 grams. The Ohlins spring is a little thinner and shorter also (makes it easier to install on my 210x55 IL Coil). Haven't mounted it but just a heads up for those who want an option in between Valt and Fox.


No remote, I like clean handlebars 

However, the Ohlins spring is interesting! Did you go 525lbs on purpose or is it because it was clause to your 500lbs VALT and it was available?

I'd love to hear if you feel a difference «*suspension-wise*» or if it's the same! After testing a 400lbs SLS for a few months I'm now back on a 400lbs VALT because the result was a mixed feeling. Same rate, same sag but not the same result/feel ... so much that I had to completely change the settings on the shock to match the SLS spring. I was never fully happy with the results ...

I sticked the VALT and my previous settings on my bike a week ago and I can now bomb down the trails with confidence again ... very, very strange ... I don't know why!

So back to the Ohlins spring, if after testing it in the rough you can't feel a difference I'd be very interested to know please 

BTW: do you know the internal diameter of the Ohlins springs?

Thanks for sharing the info


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Apparently the ID is 36mm so it’s tighter than the VALT (good to prevent rattles)

And the price is similar to the VALT (another good point)

So if it’s lighter and as good, yep ... it sounds great


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

digev said:


> No remote, I like clean handlebars
> 
> However, the Ohlins spring is interesting! Did you go 525lbs on purpose or is it because it was clause to your 500lbs VALT and it was available?
> 
> ...


I bought the Ohlins 525 because it was cheap on eBay (pros closet). Slightly used, there is a faint black rub mark on the inside of one of the coils so maybe the previous owner had an issue or maybe it's just cosmetic damage. Holding up a ruler and eye balling confirms it's around 36mm ID. Ohlins claims ~1.6% accuracy in spring rate.

The idea is that I'd have a 5% stiffer spring for longer days and carrying more weight, or if I gain weight. And then I could just sell off the air canister I have laying around.

I have since dialed in the 500 Valt and the weight of the spring never bothered me. I'm currently on the road but once I'm back home next week I planned on throwing on the Ohlins to see the differences, although a more fair comparison would be 500 Valt vs 500 Ohlins but I've gone through a few springs in the past few weeks lol.


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

Can someone tell me if a 210x50 could be changed to 55mm travel?
I went through the thread and found no unique answer, anyway not for this size.
And if so, is there any manual or video?
My frame offers both. So if travel could be changed I would start with the 50mm. If it could not be changed I would need to decide.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

hulster said:


> Can someone tell me if a 210x50 could be changed to 55mm travel?
> I went through the thread and found no unique answer, anyway not for this size.
> And if so, is there any manual or video?
> My frame offers both. So if travel could be changed I would start with the 50mm. If it could not be changed I would need to decide.


If you have white spacers at the end of the shaft (below the bottom out bumper) then yes, and very easily by just cutting them off!

I just did it on mine, it was a 210x52.5mm and now it's 4mm longer (2x2mm spacers) ... so my SB130 can go from 130mm to 140mm


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

digev said:


> If you have white spacers at the end of the shaft (below the bottom out bumper) then yes, and very easily by just cutting them off!
> 
> I just did it on mine, it was a 210x52.5mm and now it's 4mm longer (2x2mm spacers) ... so my SB130 can go from 130mm to 140mm


thx for your quick response - made it clear.


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

Another quick question - how trustworthy is the CC spring calculator?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

hulster said:


> thx for your quick response - made it clear.


 It can also be a disc under the spring retainer that just slips on and off. Mine was 200x50 which became 200x57.

But in my case I can put the spacer back on if need be.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

hulster said:


> Another quick question - how trustworthy is the CC spring calculator?


Not at all in my case but I suspect it depends on your frame. It told me 325 initially which put me at 44% sag I'm on 400 now and still like 36% I'm think 500 will do it.

Also keep in mind a fox sls will fit and is the lightest option if that matters to you.

I would buy the cheap steel springs (used if you can) and figure it out then buy a nicer spring if you want.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

hulster said:


> Another quick question - how trustworthy is the CC spring calculator?


It's alright but it does not take (all?) metric shocks into account. Ex: 52.5mm/55mm etc...

But you can bypass the user interface and send you own values if needed. If it's something you are interested in, I can can make a post and explain how to do it.

If you need a quick answer regarding the coil rate, send me your details and I'll do it for you


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Not at all in my case but I suspect it depends on your frame. It told me 325 initially which put me at 44% sag I'm on 400 now and still like 36% I'm think 500 will do it.
> 
> Also keep in mind a fox sls will fit and is the lightest option if that matters to you.
> 
> I would buy the cheap steel springs (used if you can) and figure it out then buy a nicer spring if you want.


Yes it depends on your leverage rate/curve. And I agree with the previous comment, SLS springs are way lighter ex: 130g lighter than my VALT, both 2.25x400lbs

The calculator gives you 2 values:

1) - spring_rate (the perfect rate)
2) - spring_suggestion (the closest CC spring rate you can buy)

CC springs have 50lbs increments, when Fox have 25lbs increments.

But they are also more expensive


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So can you calculate mine? I'm on an intense recluse and weigh 143lbs but will get down to 135 in a month or so.

I ride trail have some 5ft drops and prefer ground hugging over Poppy.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Sure! If you can’t find you options/values on the drop downs of the CC calculator? Is that the case?


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Well I just measured my sag again I am down to 140lbs and I pushed the bumper up sat on it and with measuring tape eyeing it best I can it sat at 17mm sag which is 29% on a 400# spring.

Every calculator I used said 325-350 for 145lbs I'm 140 now and 400# spring that makes the calculators off by quite a bit in my case.


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

digev said:


> It's alright but it does not take (all?) metric shocks into account. Ex: 52.5mm/55mm etc...
> 
> But you can bypass the user interface and send you own values if needed. If it's something you are interested in, I can can make a post and explain how to do it.
> 
> If you need a quick answer regarding the coil rate, send me your details and I'll do it for you


Why I have asked is I offen read about spring calculation not matching. Not specifically the CC calculator.
I general I am wondering why the linkage has not taken into account. 
Because that should affect the spring rate needed. Or did not spot something.
I need a 210x55 and this is not listed so shock travel only 50 or 57. But that should not make that big difference. I am more fearing about the linkage as the calculate by some average. 
My frame is a bit special as linkage made for steel spring. Degressive into SAG, then linear/light progressive throughout the main travel and more progressive at the end for bottom-out.


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> N
> Also keep in mind a fox sls will fit and is the lightest option if that matters to you.
> 
> I would buy the cheap steel springs (used if you can) and figure it out then buy a nicer spring if you want.


Thx for the heads-up with the Fox springs. 
Do they fit? I read in another thread not all springs fit (too long). Even the std steel should not fit properly. Maybe not the case for all lengths.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

hulster said:


> Why I have asked is I offen read about spring calculation not matching. Not specifically the CC calculator.
> I general I am wondering why the linkage has not taken into account.
> Because that should affect the spring rate needed. Or did not spot something.
> I need a 210x55 and this is not listed so shock travel only 50 or 57. But that should not make that big difference. I am more fearing about the linkage as the calculate by some average.
> My frame is a bit special as linkage made for steel spring. Degressive into SAG, then linear/light progressive throughout the main travel and more progressive at the end for bottom-out.


You just need to buy some cheap springs and figure it out.

Don't be like me having to sell a bunch of valt springs you don't need.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Well I just measured my sag again I am down to 140lbs and I pushed the bumper up sat on it and with measuring tape eyeing it best I can it sat at 17mm sag which is 29% on a 400# spring.
> 
> Every calculator I used said 325-350 for 145lbs I'm 140 now and 400# spring that makes the calculators off by quite a bit in my case.


You talk about you're "ready to ride weight", right?! With shoes etc...


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

hulster said:


> Why I have asked is I offen read about spring calculation not matching. Not specifically the CC calculator.
> I general I am wondering why the linkage has not taken into account.
> Because that should affect the spring rate needed. Or did not spot something.
> I need a 210x55 and this is not listed so shock travel only 50 or 57. But that should not make that big difference. I am more fearing about the linkage as the calculate by some average.
> My frame is a bit special as linkage made for steel spring. Degressive into SAG, then linear/light progressive throughout the main travel and more progressive at the end for bottom-out.


Don't worry too much about the leverage curve ... I've had IL coils on the Yeti SB6/SB5.5 and they have the most linear rear suspensions you can find and they work great!! And I did not account for the suspension curve when using the calculator so... let's keep it simple for now 

Also, if you post all the info asked by the calculator I'll send you the spring rate for the 55mm stroke! (Your weight is you're ready-to-ride weight ... don't skip that part or guesstimate. Get your clothes on, shoes, backpack, water, whatever and jump on the scale! That's the weight we need ... unless you ride naked!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> You just need to buy some cheap springs and figure it out.
> 
> Don't be like me having to sell a bunch of valt springs you don't need.


Agreed! Once you've found your spring rate, buy the steel one and see if it feels right! If not send it back and try with another one depending on what's needed! But if you enter the correct info from the start you should not be very far from the truth! You might even get the right rate the very first time!


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

digev said:


> Agreed! Once you've found your spring rate, buy the steel one and see if it feels right! If not send it back and try with another one depending on what's needed! But if you enter the correct info from the start you should not be very far from the truth! You might even get the right rate the very first time!


Ok - didn't skip the ready-to-ride weight. Did not hop on a scale but calculated fairly 5kg (sorry metric) on top incl. backpack and water.
140mm frame travel, 55 mm shock, SAG 30%, 70% on rear.
What I was wondering is the preload affects a lot. Around 25 per turn.
I would usually say less preload should ensure better sensitivity, but if it increases the spring rate this makes no sense. 
So std setting by the calculator 3 turns makes sense to keep flexibility in both directions?
For 3 turns the result is 425 and for 1 turn 475


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

hulster said:


> Ok - didn't skip the ready-to-ride weight. Did not hop on a scale but calculated fairly 5kg (sorry metric) on top incl. backpack and water.
> 140mm frame travel, 55 mm shock, SAG 30%, 70% on rear.
> What I was wondering is the preload affects a lot. Around 25 per turn.
> I would usually say less preload should ensure better sensitivity, but if it increases the spring rate this makes no sense.
> ...


 According to vorsprung it really only affects ride height and small bump.
Watch some of their videos on YouTube very informative.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

There you go!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

1 turn of preload is ideal! It's originally made for tweaking the SAG, EVEN if people use it to "fake" the rate ... but it only works on the first few mm of the travel ... a spring is a spring and it's linear by nature (in short you need the same force/weight to compress it all the way). But if you crank more turns of preload you will make it less sensitive at the very begining (and it gives the illusion of a higher spring rate).

So you can play with it but don't use it as solution to your rate related questions/needs (unless it has to do with the SAG).


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## hulster (May 28, 2017)

digev said:


> There you go!
> 
> View attachment 1251573


Thx a lot - but you maybe put the wrong weight? 90kg around 200 lbs, you put 65


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

My bad, I misread you or something, sorry ... here's the new result for 90kg









And FYI when you said that 57mm is close to 55mm so it should not make a big difference. Well it gives 480lbs instead of 514lbs, it's something you would feel on the bike 

That's why CC need to update their calculator and add the metric shocks!


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## POAH (Apr 29, 2009)

hulster said:


> Another quick question - how trustworthy is the CC spring calculator?


depends on the leverage ratio. I'm 100lb over what calculators suggest but my bike is fairly linear


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> How'd it go?


 Sorry I've only been on s trail twice since 4/23 once with the 400# it's been raining almost every day since then.

The one time I got out on it was like ews Columbia parts where it was red mud clay I was sinking in 8inches.
There was a water crossing that normally is just moist well it was 2ft deep at least way over my hubs.

Now both of my local trail systems that are around lakes accounting for 60+ miles of single track are flooded again and I doubt I can ride them before the middle of June and that's if it stops raining. And we are scheduled rain for the next 7 days

It's sad I'm on 10 days vacation and memorial day has been cancelled at both lakes.

My only option is gravel:skep:


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Sorry I've only been on s trail twice since 4/23 once with the 400# it's been raining almost every day since then.
> 
> The one time I got out on it was like ews Columbia parts where it was red mud clay I was sinking in 8inches.
> There was a water crossing that normally is just moist well it was 2ft deep at least way over my hubs.
> ...


No worries!... new bike or even new parts and it always rains!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Now I've got an issue. Seems it is leaking oil out the top somewhere. It has always been dry and now oil covering the top and climb switch.

Last time I messed with it I increased the lsc about a week ago and it was dry then.


Edit: definitely coming out of the the lsc/ climb switch. I had like 5 clicks of lsc. I have been doing some stair drops just riding urban because of flooded trails. But I'm 140lbs wouldn't think that would blow it.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Now I've got an issue. Seems it is leaking oil out the top somewhere. It has always been dry and now oil covering the top and climb switch.
> 
> Last time I messed with it I increased the lsc about a week ago and it was dry then.
> 
> Edit: definitely coming out of the the lsc/ climb switch. I had like 5 clicks of lsc. I have been doing some stair drops just riding urban because of flooded trails. But I'm 140lbs wouldn't think that would blow it.


Damn! Bad luck. Don't waste time and contact CC or the shop you bought it from to get it replaced/fixed. If you could give some feedbacks about the whole thing that'd be great. Just saying because I've had a bunch of coil IL now and never had any problems (most amazing shock I've tried and I keep on buying them) BUT I did send them some emails and sometimes they reply quickly, sometimes it takes a very long time and 2/3 follow up emails and sometimes it goes into a black hole and you never hear from them at all! The support is very inconsistent and it's overly frustrating ... Whatever the outcome, please keep us posted  fingers crossed for your shock!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok will do emailing now.


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## VTTYeahyouknowme (Nov 5, 2016)

*CC DB INLINE on a Pole Evolink 131*

Thought I'd chime in with my experience. I put one of these on my Evolink 131, with a RWC needle bearing on the lower shock eyelet. 450 lb VALT spring for me at 170 lbs kitted. From the stock tune I dialed in a little more HSC to manage the drops and cased jumps, dialed the LSC all the way out (supple is the point, right?) and rebounds kinda in the middle. Sag? There is some amount of it, just enough turns on the spring to keep it from rattling.

Quick review: it's awesome. I can get it moving by pressing on the seat with one finger, it's that supple. Drop the bike to flat and the rear wheel just plants. The increase in traction is shocking (over the stock Monarch RT3,) which definitely has some amount to thank the needle bearing for- but that in combination with the coil is a total eye opener.

The most unexpected happy realization? Climbing. I'm noticeably faster up climbs and less tired- turns out I had to use a fair amount of body-English to maintain traction on chunky rocky climbs, or techy rooty steps. The weight of the coil over air is hilariously unimportant- honestly to the point that I would choose a coil over air even if it weighed twice what it does- the difference is that big.


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## GrannyJenkins (Jan 3, 2017)

Have had a IL Coil for about 2 months now. Overall really like it. 

After a week or so it started knocking about 20mm into travel. Went back to TfTuned but it started doing it again 10 days later. TF explained that it's down to the design of the shock and it doesn't affect performance. Kind of annoying but I'll just have to live with it. 

Sag calculators all seem way way off. On a new Banshee Spitfire (so fairly progressive)I'm ~70kg/150lbs ready to ride and most calculators suggested 350-400lbs springs. Ended up with 500lbs and use full travel multiple times per run. This gives me about 25% sag. 

Reason I'm posting is because I'm surprised how much compression damping I need. I have HSC wound fully on (so clock wise) and LSC around 6-8 clicks. HSR is wound fully on with LSR somewhere in the middle. Ideally I would like more HSC as it's pretty easy to bottom out on not huge drops. Anyone else find similar?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

GrannyJenkins said:


> Have had a IL Coil for about 2 months now. Overall really like it.
> 
> After a week or so it started knocking about 20mm into travel. Went back to TfTuned but it started doing it again 10 days later. TF explained that it's down to the design of the shock and it doesn't affect performance. Kind of annoying but I'll just have to live with it.
> 
> ...


Exactly the same experience and I'm lighter then you. Calculators are way off and I blow thru travel .


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

I would say it depends 

My experience is different, I have and had CC inlines Coils on:

YT Jeffsy
Yeti SB6
Yeti SB5.5
Yeti SB130

And my friends on several Jeffsy and HighTower LT and the springs based on the CC calculator were spot on, no bottom out but using full travel and SAG around 23/25%. 80kg ready to ride and the last 450lbs on the SB130 is once again perfect!

I guess it's really down to the bikes geometry.

If you really want to find the perfect spring for your weight/bike and not spend time swapping and testing you can always get it done (online) by J-Tech Sudpension in the UK.

For a very small fee, £5.



> Most spring calculators give you a guideline of what spring rate you need, however, there are other variables that may mean a softer or firmer spring rate is required.
> 
> Using linkage software we are able to simulate your bikes kinematics and your riding position. We can look at the finer details for you to produce a more accurate calculation of the spring rate you require.


https://j-techsuspension.co.uk/pages/advanced-spring-calculator


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## GrannyJenkins (Jan 3, 2017)

That's interesting. Both the Yetis have pretty linear ratios

SB 6 : Yeti SB6C 27.5'' 2015 - Linkage Design
SB 5.5 : Yeti SB5.5C 29'' 2016 - Linkage Design

The Jeffsy nicely progressive

Jeffsy: Young Talent Jeffsy 27 2018 - Linkage Design

Spitfire is progressive but then linear last 20mm of travel (which is on the bump stop anyway)

Spitfire: Banshee Spitfire 2016 - Linkage Design

I would of expected the Yetis to have needed a very high spring rate (in the same way as my old HD3 did when I put a coil on for fun).


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Yeah I know me too, the Yetis are very linear ... not the new generation but still the calculator did not know that and the 400lbs spring was fine on the previous SBs. I could say I’ve been lucky, I don’t know ... it worked out great every time with the CC spring calculator.


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## Marcin77xx (Mar 21, 2019)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Exactly the same experience and I'm lighter then you. Calculators are way off and I blow thru travel .


Same me, tfttuned gave me 450valt, and i have bought 500 and still 31% of sag with 2 preloads, 29.7% with 3 preloads so i dont need that much then i decided email them to give me 550 spring.

I'm 180-183lbs (82-83kg) fully equip., on intense recluse.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Can someone confirm this info?


```
What you don’t know is that the 210x50/52.5/55mm CCDB IL Coil shocks are all a 216x63mm shock with a 6mm internal spacer, to reduce the eye to eye down to 210mm, meaning that the available stroke length is then 57mm. That’s why there is then a spacer (the one you removed) to reduce the stroke length to the above sizes.

James Williams
J-TECH Suspension Ltd
phone: 01743464486
site: www.j-techsuspension.co.uk
address: Unit B2, Greenwood Court Ind. Est, Cartmel Drive, Shrewsbury, SY1 3TB
```


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## GrannyJenkins (Jan 3, 2017)

Marcin77xx said:


> Same me, tfttuned gave me 450valt, and i have bought 500 and still 31% of sag with 2 preloads, 29.7% with 3 preloads so i dont need that much then i decided email them to give me 550 spring.
> 
> I'm 180-183lbs (82-83kg) fully equip., on intense recluse.


That Recluse is regressive->progressive, so more sag would be expected I assume.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

digev said:


> Can someone confirm this info?
> 
> 
> ```
> ...


I bet Cane Creek can!

removing an internal spacer would require an entire rebuild. What's the end game?


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## The Messiah (Apr 18, 2019)

digev said:


> Can someone confirm this info?
> 
> 
> ```
> ...


Thats wrong or certainly has been up to now. The 210x55 and 50 is a 200x57 shock with a 10mm longer eyelet on the end of the shaft and a 2mm or 7mm stroke spacer. You can make the 216x63 shock a 210x55 or 50 though.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

CharacterZero said:


> I bet Cane Creek can!
> 
> removing an internal spacer would require an entire rebuild. What's the end game?


It's external! Those are plastic spacers on the shaft.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

The Messiah said:


> Thats wrong or certainly has been up to now. The 210x55 and 50 is a 200x57 shock with a 10mm longer eyelet on the end of the shaft and a 2mm or 7mm stroke spacer. You can make the 216x63 shock a 210x55 or 50 though.


Thanks for the swift reply!

What about the 210x52.5, same thing?!

So without the plastic spacers on the shaft you can still end up with a 57mm stroke, correct?

The whole story is:

I received a 210x52.5 shock for my Yeti SB130 instead of a 210x55, but with 2 plastic spacers (hard nylon or something). They were 2mm each!

So 4mm of spacers in total. I knew the SB130 could take a 55mm (you can remove the 2.5mm in the stock DPX2) so I removed 1 spacer.

52.5mm + 2mm = 54.5mn (OK that's still safe)

Then I fully compressed the shock without a spring to see if I would have enough clearance between the rear tire and the seat tube ... I had more than enough room, so I've decided to remove the last spacer

52.5mm + 4mm = 56.5mm

Fully recompressed the shock and still had 35/40mm of clearance so it was safe to ride, and that's what I did and since then it's absolutely fine!

My question is: I know I've increased the stroke and I know I've increased the rear travel but is it safe to say that it's 100% sure that the stroke is now either 56.5mm or 57mm ?!


----------



## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

digev said:


> Thanks for the swift reply!
> 
> What about the 210x52.5, same thing?!
> 
> ...


That's very interesting. Does anyone know if the 210x55mm comes with any spacers too? It would be great if I can turn it into 210x57 or 210x59 for my Rocky Instinct


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

jaks said:


> That's very interesting. Does anyone know if the 210x55mm comes with any spacers too? It would be great if I can turn it into 210x57 or 210x59 for my Rocky Instinct


yes it comes with a 2mm spacer.

I bought the 210x55 for my stumpjumper evo, took the spacer out and now it's a 210x57


----------



## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

digev said:


> Just thought I'de share my setup with you guys.
> 
> *CCDB COIL INLINE + SLS*
> CaneCreek DBCoil inline (200x57): 253g
> ...


Thanks for the info! Did you have to do anything special to fit the SLS spring to the DBcoil IL?


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Nope, it fits perfectly with less play


----------



## Logoffski (Dec 30, 2011)

digev said:


> *CCDB COIL INLINE + SLS*
> CaneCreek DBCoil inline (200x57): 253g
> Fox SLS 2.25 x 400lbs: 188g


Interesting...
Mine gave me 270g for the body. 200x57 also, no hardware.


----------



## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Can someone please measure the diameter of the coil? 
I am trying to find out if the inline would fit in the new Tallboy 4.


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

jazzanova said:


> Can someone please measure the diameter of the coil?
> I am trying to find out if the inline would fit in the new Tallboy 4.


I measured a 400lb SLS spring at 50mm and 450lb VALT at 53.5mm. OD


----------



## wired00 (Oct 23, 2017)

Can someone please tell me if this sounds normal for a cc inline? The rebound gives a really loud sound after hard compression. In the video it doesn't sound as loud and annoying as it is on a ride.

I brought this second hand to put on my 2019 stumpy. Should I get it serviced or is this normal? It feels good to ride so...






Cheers


----------



## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

wired00 said:


> Can someone please tell me if this sounds normal for a cc inline? The rebound gives a really loud sound after hard compression. In the video it doesn't sound as loud and annoying as it is on a ride.
> 
> I brought this second hand to put on my 2019 stumpy. Should I get it serviced or is this normal? It feels good to ride so...
> 
> ...


I could be wrong but it sounds like the rebound is "too" closed, so what you are hearing is the oil going through the HSR (I guess) trying to slow down the force coming back from the compressed spring. Make sense?!

What you should do!

1) - write down your settings (from closed) HSC/LSC/HSR/LSR
2) - Open the HSR fully and see if you still get that noise when bouncing on the bike 
3) - If you still get it, try to open the LSR fully

If one one the two adjustment is making a difference then you found why. If not, try to revert back to the factory settings.


----------



## nickwm21 (Aug 15, 2007)

jazzanova said:


> Can someone please measure the diameter of the coil?
> I am trying to find out if the inline would fit in the new Tallboy 4.


Does it fit?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

nickwm21 said:


> Does it fit?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am more than happy with Cane Creek answer:

The DBcoil IL would be great for that bike. And I'm not just saying that because it's the only shock we have that fits it, but it actually is a very progressive leverage curve so it is a perfect candidate for a coil.

As for over-stroking it, we don't have any official confirmation from Santa Cruz and we don't promote using unconfirmed shock sizes. That said, if you went 190x50 you would add 13mm of travel. But conveniently enough, you can actually have both stroke lengths. The 45mm variant is just a 190x50 with a 5mm stoke reducer clip that sits under the bottom out bumper. So order the 190x45, pop that clip off, mount up the shock without a spring on it and you can check for clearance with that longer stroke. If it doesn't work, pop the clip back on and run it as a 45mm."


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## Altavoz (May 15, 2018)

Hi everyone,

I have a 200x57 DB Coil IL shock with a 2.25x350 VALT spring (AAD1784 VALT). I need a firmer spring and I am not sure if it fits the 2x400 spring (AAD1760 VALT) or I need the 2.25x400 one (AAD1763 VALT). I have seen some charts allowing the first one and other charts that don't.Of course I know the 2.25 one will fit, but I just want to shed some grams of it's possible.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

Altavoz said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have a 200x57 DB Coil IL shock with a 2.25x350 VALT spring (AAD1784 VALT). I need a firmer spring and I am not sure if it fits the 2x400 spring (AAD1760 VALT) or I need the 2.25x400 one (AAD1763 VALT). I have seen some charts allowing the first one and other charts that don't.Of course I know the 2.25 one will fit, but I just want to shed some grams of it's possible.


I ran a 2.0 spring on a shock with 57mm stroke without any coil bind. NSD Dynamics in Aus have advised me the 2.0 CC Valts can go up to 60mm before bind.


----------



## Altavoz (May 15, 2018)

brash said:


> I ran a 2.0 spring on a shock with 57mm stroke without any coil bind. NSD Dynamics in Aus have advised me the 2.0 CC Valts can go up to 60mm before bind.


Thank you very much, that's really helpful


----------



## dlxah (Nov 5, 2014)

brash said:


> I ran a 2.0 spring on a shock with 57mm stroke without any coil bind. NSD Dynamics in Aus have advised me the 2.0 CC Valts can go up to 60mm before bind.


Is that why it's so difficult to fit the 2.25 springs? Even with the preload adjuster backed all the way off, I have to manually compress the coil a few mm to get it on an off. It's kind of a PITA.


----------



## brash (Dec 4, 2018)

dlxah said:


> Is that why it's so difficult to fit the 2.25 springs? Even with the preload adjuster backed all the way off, I have to manually compress the coil a few mm to get it on an off. It's kind of a PITA.


i know how you feel, putting a 650 x 2.25 on a 210x50 took a few swear words.

A taped up flat head screw driver to pry the clip on works well.


----------



## Logoffski (Dec 30, 2011)

Altavoz said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have a 200x57 DB Coil IL shock with a 2.25x350 VALT spring (AAD1784 VALT). I need a firmer spring and I am not sure if it fits the 2x400 spring (AAD1760 VALT) or I need the 2.25x400 one (AAD1763 VALT). I have seen some charts allowing the first one and other charts that don't.Of course I know the 2.25 one will fit, but I just want to shed some grams of it's possible.


Fox sls maybe?
It's proven here in the tread. And you can find one used for the half price.


----------



## Altavoz (May 15, 2018)

Logoffski said:


> Fox sls maybe?
> It's proven here in the tread. And you can find one used for the half price.


I have searched for one, even though I am not keen on that shouty orange, but I haven't found any second hand 400x2.25 SLS.


----------



## scruff0372 (Aug 10, 2007)

I had a creaky noise on my bike (Banshee Spitfire with CC IL Coil) it turned out to be the screw that tightens onto the valve body / damping adjusters had come loose. I've tighten it back up by hand but not sure if there has been anything to cause a problem due to this (nitrogen / oil loss etc) . Difficult to tell whilst riding as everything is covered in a foot of mud, but rebound does sound a bit louder maybe.

Anyone else experienced this?


----------



## nashwillis (Dec 27, 2012)

I just bought a 200x57 shock and my bike is made for 200x51 but fits 200x57. Is there a spacer you can add to make the 57 to 51? Or just by a shorter coil? what brand coils fit?


----------



## Mebaru (Jun 5, 2017)

Very informative thread!

I am interested in putting IL shock on my Trek and have some questions if anyone knows the answers 

Do I need to buy a special mounting hardware or I can use the one from old fox shock that came with the bike? Btw CC website has some Trek specific shock mounting hardware "50mmx10mm Trek offset".

Clunking issues with the shock are a little bit disturbing. I won't be able to use CC support to service the shock because of my location (sending shock to them will be very expensive). But I have a good suspension workshop in my area - I wonder if they will be able to service/re-build this shock to fix possible clunking issues (if any) or this is something that can only be done by CC?

Regarding spring rate - I'm around 200-205lbs (90-92kg) fully equipped. Calculator suggest 450 spring. But as far as I get it from this thread I will need 500 or 550 lbs spring, maybe even 600?

My suspension is 210x55 - what spring stroke length I need? 2.25"?

Sorry if have asked something stupid  Never had a coil shock before.


----------



## DesertVelo (Sep 28, 2018)

Mebaru said:


> Very informative thread!
> 
> I am interested in putting IL shock on my Trek and have some questions if anyone knows the answers
> 
> ...


Hello Mebaru - I ordered my 210x55 from CC for my Yeti and basically had many questions so hopefully I can help. The Yeti uses a split rear shock extender requiring the 15mm open eye (more on that later) model. A specific front shock mount was ordered and was installed by CC so the front eyelet was ready to bolt in. I had to press out the existing space from my Fox shock to install in the open eyelet on the CC shock. I could have purchased a new spacer from Yeti and left the the old spacer with the Fox unit.

I also ordered CC VALT spring in a 2.25 for the 55mm stroke. I am 69/70kg ready to ride and my spring weight is 450 with 1 to 1 1/4 turns on preload.

If your Trek is coil compatible, coil shocks are a great way to add a different ride characteristic to your bike. The CC IL is nice and compact and I have no complaints on its ride quality and traction. Also, take a look at CC's progressive springs if your bike is not quite as progressive in its suspension design. CC was very helpful as well as the forum members.


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## wired00 (Oct 23, 2017)

*adjust stroke, smaller vs larger black plastic spacer*

Hi Guys i have a cane creek double barrel inline. It does not have the little white spacers (i got 2nd hand). but it has the two plastic black spacers which snap on/off. one is ~4mm the other is ~8mm.

the eyelets are 210 for the shock and my 2019 stumpy accepts 210-50. I previously had it mounted with the smaller spacer but found it a little awkward up rocky climbs compared to my other DPX2. I believe using the smaller spacer was increasing travel on my rear from 140mm to around 150mm which i think is throwing off geo. Note: I also have a 160mm lyric up front up from 150mm fox 34.

Question: I wanted to confirm, by putting a larger spacer (8mm) that would reduce the stroke down to closer to 50 right? I think the 4mm was pushing stroke to more like 54 or so? is anyone able to confirm that the larger spacer = less stroke? Sorry for long question!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

wired00 said:


> Hi Guys i have a cane creek double barrel inline. It does not have the little white spacers (i got 2nd hand). but it has the two plastic black spacers which snap on/off. one is ~4mm the other is ~8mm.
> 
> the eyelets are 210 for the shock and my 2019 stumpy accepts 210-50. I previously had it mounted with the smaller spacer but found it a little awkward up rocky climbs compared to my other DPX2. I believe using the smaller spacer was increasing travel on my rear from 140mm to around 150mm which i think is throwing off geo. Note: I also have a 160mm lyric up front up from 150mm fox 34.
> 
> Question: I wanted to confirm, by putting a larger spacer (8mm) that would reduce the stroke down to closer to 50 right? I think the 4mm was pushing stroke to more like 54 or so? is anyone able to confirm that the larger spacer = less stroke? Sorry for long question!


Yes if you leave the 7mm travel reducer in place you will get a 50mm stroke!


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## wired00 (Oct 23, 2017)

digev said:


> Yes if you leave the 7mm travel reducer in place you will get a 50mm stroke!


Awesome thanks 😊


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## wired00 (Oct 23, 2017)

Another question on the cc db inline. It makes a loud rebound circuit noise with about 4 clicks of rebound. It should be more quiet then this. Would this noise usually indicate it needs a service?


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

wired00 said:


> Another question on the cc db inline. It makes a loud rebound circuit noise with about 4 clicks of rebound. It should be more quiet then this. Would this noise usually indicate it needs a service?


Did you reset it to the «Factory Neutral Base Tune»?

Just to make sure the LSR/HSR is not set to something weird (like almost fully opened/closed or something)

If after doing that it still makes that noise and you get a little bit of oil coming from the HSR (where you put the hex key) then yes it probably needs serviced!

FYI: Cane Creek DBcoil IL long term review

https://www.perpetualdisappointment.co.uk/cane-creek-dbcoil-il-long-term-review/


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

Would someone confirm 55mm VALT spring which has ‘125mm free length’ would fit to 190x50mm model?


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## Altavoz (May 15, 2018)

tsurun said:


> Would someone confirm 55mm VALT spring which has '125mm free length' would fit to 190x50mm model?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will fit, but the best choice is the 2' one:

https://canecreek.com/FAQ/what-size-spring-do-i-need-for-my-cane-creek-coil-shock/


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Cane creek official coil guide doesn't recommend it, you're much better off with the 2.0 size with 113 free length VALT not 2.25. I tried a 2.25, 450 lbs spring for you on a 190x50 shock (imperial) for you I had off a bike. 

Although it's close and you can probably not ideally fit it if you compress the spring with a spring compressor/zipties to fit the clip. I would imagine this would add preload of unknown turns on the 2.25 spring, maybe the few mm shorter free length of a 2.25 Standard spring <400 lbs may be a bit easier. But then whats the point of the IL shock with the Standard weight spring.

All the VALT standard and progressive springs are listed at 125 free length even the lighter 350-400 lbs ones.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Altavoz said:


> Will fit, but the best choice is the 2' one:
> 
> https://canecreek.com/FAQ/what-size-spring-do-i-need-for-my-cane-creek-coil-shock/


Your link posts that the 2.25 length is not recommended at all for 190x50 only the 2.0.

You may be able to force a 2.25 on, but it will be preloaded unknown turns and harder to get off than ideal.


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## Altavoz (May 15, 2018)

erdawe said:


> Your link posts that the 2.25 length is not recommended at all for 190x50 only the 2.0.
> 
> You may be able to force a 2.25 on, but it will be preloaded unknown turns and harder to get off than ideal.


That's exactly what I wrote. It will work, not the best option.


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks all, thanks for trying.
My understanding is that it causes not to able to gain correct sag, especially if I’m a light.

I wanted to try progressive spring.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

I am selling my almost new (around 100miles old) CC DB IL coil 190x45 (190x50 with the spacer removed) with 8x20 bushing and 8x30 Fox racing bearing kit
I also have 2 springs 2.0 400 & 450lbs.
Shock was on SC Tallboy V4.
Send a msg if interested.


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

I’m thinking another idea.
Does someone check or know how long the estimated maximum free length of a spring for 190 body?


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## Mebaru (Jun 5, 2017)

So, I'm fresh CC DB Coil IL owner, 210x55. Put it on my 130mm Trek trail bike. Calculators recommended 450 lbs spring but after reading this thread I have ordered 500lbs (many people mentioned that recommended rate is too soft). Should really have get a 450 because I'm having only 10% with 1 turn preload. Even then I'm very happy with performance of this shock. Traction, small bump comfort and mid-stroke support is superior to my former air shock (fox dpx2). I was expecting I will have to mess a lot with settings to find a suitable setup but I started with "Factory Neutral Base Tune" and with some minimal adjustments I'm already very excited with the results.


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Ordering my shock today, talking to CC rep, he told me that "standard" springs are out of production. It will be Vault only from now on.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

FYI

https://thesuspensionlab.nz/coil-spring-calculator-beta

https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/bike-spring-rate-calculator-simple-shockcraft.html


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

digev said:


> FYI
> 
> https://thesuspensionlab.nz/coil-spring-calculator-beta


With this one, I get 558lb
CC rep told me 500lb 
j-tuned told me 600lb

I guess there's just no way to know theoretically.


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## TallPaul_S (May 27, 2020)

Just ordered a Black Ltd Ed CC DB Coil IL, 210x55, for my 2019 YT Jeffsy 29 (150mm travel). Went with the 500lb Valt spring, calculators put me anywhere from 450-550lbs so we'll see where it sits. 185lbs/84kg in riding gear with water etc.

Had just done an air can service on my DPX2 2 weeks ago, then had 4 days hard riding (85 miles, 12,000ft climbing & descending) and now the DPX2 has air mixed with the oil, it's squelching on rebound and is juddering. It's under a year old so it'll go to silverfish under warranty for a service then get sold once the coil is fitted!


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

The 210x55 has 44mm of stroke so your Jeffsy will have 120mm of travel.


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## Mebaru (Jun 5, 2017)

TylerVernon said:


> The 210x55 has 44mm of stroke so your Jeffsy will have 120mm of travel.


Stroke isn't travel, travel is determined by suspension linkage. Two bikes with same shock size can have different travel.


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## TallPaul_S (May 27, 2020)

TylerVernon said:


> The 210x55 has 44mm of stroke so your Jeffsy will have 120mm of travel.


210mm is the eye to eye length, 55mm is the shock stroke, which is the same as the DPX2 which is currently on the bike.

Not sure how a 55mm stroke shock will have 44mm of stroke, unless you mean it's limited by the bottom out bumper, which is compressible.


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Sounds like you smart guys have it all figured out. lol


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

Someone would check this length? Thanks










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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

tsurun said:


> Someone would check this length? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've got the answer from CC, it's 42mm.

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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

It's 45.2mm center of eyelet to beginning of threads.


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

TylerVernon said:


> It's 45.2mm center of eyelet to beginning of threads.


Thanks so I guess somewhere in between.

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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

digev said:


> Thanks for the swift reply!
> 
> What about the 210x52.5, same thing?!
> 
> ...


How are you liking the sb130 with the db IL? I've been thinking of picking one up myself because the stock Fox DPX2 just isn't plush enough for my scrawny frame.


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## Lilboi (Dec 1, 2020)

Hey yall,

I'm an Idiot. 
Was installing the OPT lockout and accidentally loosened the spool valve inside the lockout lever. There is a warning label on the instructions that say to absolutely NOT DO THAT:








If I had read the instructions I would have realized quickly how dumb of an idea that would be. It seems to have only affected the lockout/damper, I haven't had any real use into my shock yet so It's hard for me to tell whether anything actually broke or not. Does anyone know what I just did to my bike???? do I have to get it serviced??

I'm kinda freaking out, 
Thanks.


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## DesertVelo (Sep 28, 2018)

Lilboi said:


> Hey yall,
> 
> I'm an Idiot.
> Was installing the OPT lockout and accidentally loosened the spool valve inside the lockout lever. There is a warning label on the instructions that say to absolutely NOT DO THAT:
> ...


Contact Cane Creek who can advise you regardless if you purchased the shock used. I have had great customer service from them. Good luck!

Sent from the singletrack...


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## Lilboi (Dec 1, 2020)

DesertVelo said:


> Contact Cane Creek who can advise you regardless if you purchased the shock used. I have had great customer service from them. Good luck!
> 
> Sent from the singletrack...


Update (late I know haha):
It ended up being completely fine. I realized if I actually broke it I would have known! Luckily I only backed it out partly and did minimal if not no damage at all to the shock. 
Lesson learned to read the instructions!!!


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## Nakkipata (Feb 20, 2019)

Does anyone here have OPT top-mount remote kits for sale? Cane creek discontinued the product and I’m having hard time finding one to replace my bottom mount unit on a new frame.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

I really want to try a coil on my bike, but unfortunately my frame has super limited clearance, and i'm not sure if a coil would fit. It looks like on the DB coil shocks the lower part (circled on the picture below) is longer than on most other shocks on the market, which would help with clearance in my frame. Can anyone confirm if this part is actually longer IRL (and it's not just some optical illusion etc.) and if it's longer on the 185x55 trunnion version?


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

I think earlier versions were longer on that part. They also had a shorter damper body. In 210x55, I have a 2020 that is short and a 2018 that is long.


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## HollyBoni (Dec 27, 2016)

TylerVernon said:


> I think earlier versions were longer on that part. They also had a shorter damper body. In 210x55, I have a 2020 that is short and a 2018 that is long.


Dangit!


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## Santoman (9 mo ago)

Hi everyone, I am new to MTBR, so apologies if this has been covered before. I have a 200mm|57mm DB IL coil and would like to try a progressive coil. The closest Valt coil is the 55mm one. Would it be OK to mount such a coil on my damper? Many thanks!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Santoman said:


> Hi everyone, I am new to MTBR, so apologies if this has been covered before. I have a 200mm|57mm DB IL coil and would like to try a progressive coil. The closest Valt coil is the 55mm one. Would it be OK to mount such a coil on my damper? Many thanks!


Absolutely, 55mm is what you need

Source: What size spring do I need for my Cane Creek Coil shock? - Cane Creek Cycling Components


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## Santoman (9 mo ago)

digev said:


> Absolutely, 55mm is what you need
> 
> Source: What size spring do I need for my Cane Creek Coil shock? - Cane Creek Cycling Components


Thanks for Googling it for me! 😁 Cheers!


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## Santoman (9 mo ago)

Santoman said:


> Thanks for Googling it for me! 😁 Cheers!


BTW, have you had experience with progressive coils? If I am in general satisfied with a 500lbs spring but would like a bit of ramp up deep in the stroke, would you go for a 500-610 and maybe a tad less hsc, or would a 450-550 and more support from the hydraulics? Many thanks!


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)

Santoman said:


> BTW, have you had experience with progressive coils? If I am in general satisfied with a 500lbs spring but would like a bit of ramp up deep in the stroke, would you go for a 500-610 and maybe a tad less hsc, or would a 450-550 and more support from the hydraulics? Many thanks!


Never felt the need for one … especially since a Cascade link is taking care of the ramp up!


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## Pembo6 (Jul 17, 2013)

Great thread.
I'm currently between 2 spring weights. Spent 2 weeks tweaking settings for the heavier spring (640lb Ohlins). Got the best feel I can, with the compression settings quite open. Feels great climbing and awesome on chunky-ish descents. But not fantastic on fast chattery sections (a little harsh).
Have now switched ot the next lighter spring and am running compression way more closed. I'm hoping the lighter spring will perform better on the medium chattery stuff but not blow through the travel on bigger hits and drops.

I'm around 83kg (183lb) without gear. Fox calculator puts me on approx a 600lb spring.

Any advice is welcome. Cheers.


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## meSSican (Aug 8, 2010)

Considering trying the IL coil on my 21 Troy. Stock my troy has an X2 performance elite so wondering if it'll be a good fit on the 140/150 bike. Also looking at DBair IL and Kitsuma air fir the Troy.


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Why are you considering both air and coil? You should figure out if you want air OR coil, then choose one. 2.8-2.35 isn't much progression. Might need a progressive spring.


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## meSSican (Aug 8, 2010)

TylerVernon said:


> Why are you considering both air and coil? You should figure out if you want air OR coil, then choose one. 2.8-2.35 isn't much progression. Might need a progressive spring.


Having issues with the X2 which is out for warranty work. I am debating on going coil or stick with air. I wondering if I should ditch the X2 all together and just go with another air shock like DBAir IL or go coil. I was leaning towards the DBCoil IL but wanted to see if there were any feedback on it. I have the Kitsuma Coil on a Rallon and liking that.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

meSSican said:


> Having issues with the X2 which is out for warranty work. I am debating on going coil or stick with air. I wondering if I should ditch the X2 all together and just go with another air shock like DBAir IL or go coil. I was leaning towards the DBCoil IL but wanted to see if there were any feedback on it. I have the Kitsuma Coil on a Rallon and liking that.


Stick to the coil if you can imo.
The IL is a wicked shock, same as the Kitsuma. IL if you're looking at weight or can't fit reservoir into the frame or don't do super long descents. 

Odoslané z S59Pro pomocou Tapatalku


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

I looked at the weights of coils and the Ohlims ttx was barely heavier than the cc inline.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

TylerVernon said:


> I looked at the weights of coils and the Ohlims ttx was barely heavier than the cc inline.


Interesting,
But the cc takes the cake with all the adjustability. 

Odoslané z S59Pro pomocou Tapatalku


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

Dougal says the ttx is better.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Sorry if this has been covered here before, but does anyone know if the 210mm X 50mm DB IL coil has a 5mm removable spacer to allow 55mm? I noticed they also make a 210mm X 52.5mm as well. Are these just 55mm shocks with external spacers?


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## tootalltim (5 mo ago)

DirtDiggler said:


> Sorry if this has been covered here before, but does anyone know if the 210mm X 50mm DB IL coil has a 5mm removable spacer to allow 55mm? I noticed they also make a 210mm X 52.5mm as well. Are these just 55mm shocks with external spacers?


Should be, yes.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Thank you, Tootalltim - 
Cane Creek just confirmed that the 210 X 50mm DB IL coil is a 55mm with 5mm reducer. But, they could not confirm the 52.5mm was. They said the shaft size may be slightly different on that size.


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