# X-Fusion Hilo



## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

Hydraulic 100mm Adjustable Seatpost (remote or lever) :thumbsup:

From Bike Radar:


Bike Radar said:


> It weighs a claimed 1.3lb and will be available in 27.2, 30.9 and 31.6mm diameters, in either black or silver/black. It's expected to be available in November 2010 via Propel Bike in the UK.











https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/x-fusion-hilo-adjustable-seatpost-first-look-28110

1.3#...is that a typo? 
At first, I thought it read 1# 3oz, which would be around 539g, @1.3# ~589g. I thought X-Fusion made light stuff?


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

No, X-fusion makes reliable stuff.


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## COLINx86 (Apr 8, 2009)

The new velvet's claimed weight isn't bad at 1430g. I wonder what it really weighs?


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

Did anyone see the post length(s) for these? I scanned the various sites but saw only diameters listed.


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## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

The Hilo is showing 620g on their website, that's more like 1.37#...ouch...
http://www.x-fusion-shox.com/product.php?pa=15&pb=ce70776232933ba4c6e45ba7da48c161

X-Fusion has:
The Vector: 408g (9"x3") vs. Fox DHX Air: 443g (8.5"x2.5")
The Glyde: 159g (6.5"x1.5") vs. DT-Swiss XR Carbon 165mm: 142g (6.5"x1.5")
The Velvet: 1451g (100mm) vs. RS Sid World Cup XX: 1395g (80/100mm)
IMO, these are all reasonably light...

The Hilo on the other hand, 620g (4" dropper)
RS Reverb, CB Joplin, Fox D.O.S.S., Kind Shock, Gravity Dropper, etc. weigh less by far, and some of these are 5" travel...the RASE Black Mamba weighs 635g, but has 9" travel...where is a WW adjustable seatpost?!?!?!


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Just picked mine up from X-Fusion today. First off it looks great with the black stanchion and X-Fusion will soon offer different anodized color kits for the clamps and collar. You can easily switch between the lever (520g) or remote (600g) since it comes with both. This is the 27.2 model so the other sizes may weigh a little more.

The setback is about 10-15mm, but I'm not really sure how to properly measure that. Overall length is 400mm and the minimum insertion depth is 100mm.

For now here are some pics until I get it installed and go for a test ride:


































The lever is slotted so you can adjust how high or low you want it. Since different bikes have different seat tube angles, this was well thought out.


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## oTeMpLo (Sep 5, 2009)

Waiting for test ride report  !!!


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## IM31408 (Dec 24, 2008)

Deuce9er said:


> The Vector: 408g (9"x3") vs. Fox DHX Air: 443g (8.5"x2.5")
> The Glyde: 159g (6.5"x1.5") vs. DT-Swiss XR Carbon 165mm: 142g (6.5"x1.5")


These are both coil shocks so they don't take the spring weight into account (and springs are quite heavy)


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

killjoyken said:


> Just picked mine up from X-Fusion today. First off it looks great with the black stanchion and X-Fusion will soon offer different anodized color kits for the clamps and collar. You can easily switch between the lever (520g) or remote (600g) since it comes with both. This is the 27.2 model so the other sizes may weigh a little more.
> 
> The setback is about 10-15mm, but I'm not really sure how to properly measure that. Overall length is 400mm and the minimum insertion depth is 100mm.
> 
> ...


how much? never realized there was a 27.2 model


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Sorry guys, I completely forgot about this thread.  I figured weight weenies would scoff at adding almost 350g to their ride.

Personally I love tight, technical singletrack with lots of roots, rocks and steep descents. This is my first 29er and first hardtail (not counting DJ bikes) in 20 years. I've gotten used to my long travel FS Nomad and I can't imagine riding it without a drop post. The ability to quickly drop your saddle for a descent and use your hips for weight transfer, then quickly raise it for a short climb without missing a beat is invaluable.

When I first got my 29er I actually hated riding it. Having the seat raised made descents sketchy at best since I couldn't get my weight low enough or shift it to the side without getting behind the seat. It always felt like I was perched on top of some crazy circus bike and I was always worried about smacking my junk with the seat. :lol:

As far as adjustable seatposts, I've owned the Maverick Speedball (Joplin), KS i900 and Specialized Command Post (4" and now 5"). The Hilo can hang with the best of them and is at a lower price point. I had no issues with the Hilo all day. I didn't have time to install the remote for the first ride, so I just used the lever. The lever would be fine for those who have long ups and long downs and don't need to constantly raise or lower their post throughout a ride. I've already put the remote on and love the fact that it comes out of the back of the post, not the front like the KS and CP. This puts less of a bend on the cable and makes for easier cable routing.

Coming from a CP, I've gotten used to the very fast return and loud clack when raising the post. The Hilo has a slower return that allows you to stop the post anywhere in it's travel in case you don't need it all the way up. I'm going to play around with the air pressure a little to get a faster return, but that's just my style. I think most people will prefer the slower return speed. For comparison, the KS is a little faster and the CP is fast enough to make you sing soprano if you're not careful. I won't compare it to the Joplin because the Joplin is crap. 

Some things to take note of if you do buy one: Torque the seat rail clamp to 120 in/lbs to keep it from slipping. There's no torque rating listed, but it needs to be very tight, just like the CP. There's the same amount of very slight side to side play that the KS and CP have. You won't feel it when riding. Also, when lifting the bike by the rear seat, the post will extend, but returns to it's last position when you let go.

So...final verdict? Works great and a good price. ($250 msrp) Looks good too. Yeah, money well spent in my books. :thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Oct 1, 2005)

Sorry- i don't have a weight- and i know that's bad form for a WW but i believe the Gravity Dropper Descencer is the lightest post i've had/weighed. The pull knob isn't exactly easy to reach though. I ended up converting mine to a Turbo.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Thanks for the write-up. 

Anyone else running one yet? I know the first run sold out...


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## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

Any more info? Or anyone one else using one yet?


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

I installed one of these earlier this week on my XC bike. AFAIK not available in the UK yet, so got one of flea bay (Australian seller shipping from SIngapore, took about a week to get here). I needed a 27.2 mm seatpost so my options were limited. I thought the gravity dropper is just too ugly (I know it's only a bike, but still), and the Blacx doesn't seem to get particularly good reviews for reliability at the moment, so decided to try the HILO. I am not a real WW, so I am willing to accept a bit of extra weight for comfort/looks/reliability etc.

First impressions are good. Works as intended (installed mine with the remote), and I cannot detect any sideways play in the saddle at all. This is my first adjustable seatpost, but only took a few tries to get the hang of operating it.

The post comes with very little in the way of instructions, and nothing seems available on the xfusion website either. I would particularly like to see some maintenance and adjustment instructions. 

I didn't weigh the individual parts, but it seems the saddle clamp is somewhat over-engineered and could easily loose some weight. 

I will report back if I encounter any problems with it. It 's very muddy here at the moment so if it survives the next few weeks I am pretty sure it will keep working.


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## pcbikeguy (Jul 9, 2010)

I installed a 27.2 Hilo on my Niner MCR 2 weeks ago and love it. Have to second the comment about really tightening the seat rail bolt. The back of my seat slipped down when I sat down hard on it a couple of times. The remote is great for rolling terrain with technical spots. Had fun in Moab with it. Way better than my long ago retired Height Right!


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

This is starting to sound good. Any significant updates?


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## pcbikeguy (Jul 9, 2010)

Snow and below zero temps have kept me off of the bike lately. Looking forward to testing the post out some more once we get a break in the weather and I can head south again.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

COLINx86 said:


> The new velvet's claimed weight isn't bad at 1430g. I wonder what it really weighs?


I think the claimed weight is 3.35lb for the 100mm, which is 1520g. Maybe it is for QR15? The website is not clear. I have a Velvet RL with QR in transit for my new budget adventure racing bike - will see what <$300 delivered bought me.


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## tailwaters (May 28, 2007)

Just picked up on off Bike Stop last light for $178 and free shipping.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Still thinking whether to get the X-Fusion HILO 27.2 or the KS i7R. The reviews here sound promising.

Any more inputs from owners?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

Curmy said:


> I think the claimed weight is 3.35lb for the 100mm, which is 1520g. Maybe it is for QR15? The website is not clear. I have a Velvet RL with QR in transit for my new budget adventure racing bike - will see what <$300 delivered bought me.


Just to update - it bought me 1620g of fork. 100mm, 9mm dropouts, uncut, calibrated scales.


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## pcbikeguy (Jul 9, 2010)

*New info on website*

The X-Fusion website now shows a recommended torque (I think it was 150 not to exceed 200) AND they state that you should put some Finish Line fiber stuff on the cones. This was not in the original instructions. Hopefully it will solve the slipping seat issue. My LBS where I got the post gave me a packet of Finish Line compound- haven't had time to put it on and test yet.


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

Had mine on the bike for two months now. Been very cold and very muddy, but the HiLo has been fine (gears were frozen solid one morning when I got the bike out of the shed at -5C, but the seatpost was working without problems).

Good to see X-Fusion put some more instructions on their website. Originally there were no instructions on how to check/adjust the air pressure, the latest document (which includes the info on mounting the saddle) shows how to do it.

Overall I am very pleased with it.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Anymore updates/info on reliability? I was about to pull the trigger, but a friend let me know that after only a few rides, his started dropping on its own and is back with X-fusion trying to figure out a fix.

Not wanting to buy one if they aren't reliable.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I just got a Hilo. Really enjoying it! No play and it's really well made.

I'm still having a problem with the seat clamp slipping on me. I have it so tight already but it still slips/tilts when I ride it. 

Since I'm all the way here in the Philippines, we don't have any of the fiber thingie that X-fusion is suggesting we put on the clamps. Are there any alternatives/solutions?

Thanks!


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

...any new info? LT reviews? Common problems?


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## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

...friend has one, has had seat tilting issues too...used fiber grip as recommended and torqued, bloody high at 17nm...still slipped on g-outs and impacts...lbs recommended using green loctite...

otherwise, post works smoothly


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I've been so frustrated with my seat clamp slipping that I cut some small strips of interior tube and placed it betweent the cones. So far it's holding up. Worst cast scenario is I'd have it welded in place. haha. It's a shame though because it's really working smoothly.


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## oTeMpLo (Sep 5, 2009)

Will Hilo-s head (design) be changed prior "real" shipings in europe?!
As it has problems.
It was announced for march, but did not arrive in shops?!...
any news?!


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## pcbikeguy (Jul 9, 2010)

The Finish Line fiber coating seems to have worked. No slippage yet. The post worked great on two rides this week. I really enjoy riding with it.


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## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

ended up stripping the fiber grip out of the system and using a small file, roughed the surfaces up a bit. Did it back up and no more slippage. In my opinion the fiber grip made it worse...


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

The key is lubing your bolt, using some carbon fiber paste, and torquing to spec. You can torque the living **** out of this thing. Once I used a torque wrench and realized how tight you can take it nothing will move again.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

So, I feel like I am generally a pretty smart guy, but for some reason (and that reason is that X-Fusion's setup guide and "instruction manual" are sparse and lack actual words), I am having a hard time setting the remote level on my HiLo!

My frustrations started when I couldn't find what I thought was a second silver "noodle" as depicted on the setup guide - after getting frustrated and packing it in for the night, I ended up referring to the picture on the X-fusion site, which showed the spring/coil thing rather than the silver tube going over the top of the post.

...so I decided to give it another go, but got frustrated again when I tried to follow the pictures but for some reason, could not find what to do with the little rubber tube that looks like a penis? This is not depicted in the setup guide drawing or the instruction card, and I can't seem to find it in any pictures on the net.

Anyone got a picture of the cable setup from start to finish. Also, tips on setting cable tension would be much appreciated!


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

Trumpus,

The pictures on the X Fusion website (and the one in post one of this thread) are incorrect. It won't work with the little metal clip in the position as shown. Is that maybe your problem? Shown in the red circle in the picture below.










When setting up my remote I found I couldn't quite get enough tension on the cable and ran out of adjustment. Ended up slightly undoing the bolt holding the remote actuator thingy, then tightened the cable as much as I could before doing up the bolt again. No problems since.

Very pleased with mine. Does exactly what it is supposed to do.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

CloggyAbroad said:


> Trumpus,
> 
> The pictures on the X Fusion website (and the one in post one of this thread) are incorrect. It won't work with the little metal clip in the position as shown. Is that maybe your problem? Shown in the red circle in the picture below.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up. I haven't even gotten that far yet, but just for future reference, how should the clip be positioned?

My problem was deciding what to do with the little black rubber tube (tapered at one end, ribbed at another end). I can't find it pictured on the site, the instruction card or the PDF?

Also, a friend suggested NOT to use the little curved metal noodle at the remote lever, as it seemed to cause some issues. Anyone else found this to be the case?


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

Forgot to mention hat the clip is only there to hold the bits together in transport. Needs to be removed completely.

Not sure what bit you're talking about. Is it the rubber boot I circled in green (might need to press F5 to reload the image)?

I used the curved metal part myself. Not had any issues with it.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

CloggyAbroad said:


> Forgot to mention hat the clip is only there to hold the bits together in transport. Needs to be removed completely.


Thanks! Hadn't thought of that!



> Not sure what bit you're talking about. Is it the rubber boot I circled in green (might need to press F5 to reload the image)?


Nope, this one:


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Anyone know what that piece is? Can't seem to find it anywhere?


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

Just bin it. Clearly surplus to requirements.


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## kfother (Jul 12, 2010)

trumpus said:


> Anyone know what that piece is? Can't seem to find it anywhere?


I had this part left over from building up my post as well. That was over 5 months ago, and without it, it`s still working perfectly.

Have to iterate the point about using carbon grip paste though. Without it, i had seat slipage ever ride at some point. Adding the paste and torque to stated setting. no more issues.... that was over a month ago after ordering the Finsh Line Fiber Grip out of frustration.

slight lateral movement is the only thing i can comment on.. but it is slight, and not noticable in the least.


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## kfother (Jul 12, 2010)

One more comment.

If the person that wrote the review in gramslightbikes for HILO is reading this.

http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2011/04/reviews-in-queue-x-fusion-hilo-100.html

" I also had some issue with it not popping back up to the highest position quick enough."

YOU MIGHT HAVE YOUR SEATPOST CLAMP TOO TIGHT !!


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

kfother said:


> One more comment.
> 
> If the person that wrote the review in gramslightbikes for HILO is reading this.
> 
> ...


Sorry that makes no sense, as I don't see how the clamp force can impinge the stout post (edit: I could be wrong, it's a guess)? It still does the same thing off the bike, it's just slow as molasses. I ride very technical trails, and I want the post to react quickly, and the HILO is just too slow. It's fine when I am doing everyday stuff on more normal x-country trails, and less gnarly rock gardens. Even killjoyken made the same sort of remarks "I think most people will prefer the slower return speed." and "The Hilo has a slower return that allows you to stop the post anywhere in it's travel in case you don't need it all the way up."

Example: I have the post in the up position to climb a short rock ramp, I then need it to move down to its lowest setting for an upcoming severe ledge drop system The section beforehand is very short in distance, and the HILO is difficult to get down quick enough, and it tosses off my balance, which is not what I want in sketchy terrain.

I can ride my Control Post and Reverb, and they are more than adequate (fast). The HILO has the same issue raising, and even pumping in additional air pressure and lubing the shaft does nothing to improve it?

Peace.


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## kfother (Jul 12, 2010)

If speed of travel doesn`t change regardless of whether seatpost is on/off the bike, then it`s not the clamp restricting it... clearly. :thumbsup: 

I have experienced this personally. Depending on how tight the clamp was, travel speed was restricted from fully down -> all the way up or, the last inch of travel slowed down.

Easying off on the clamp corrected this for me.

I cannot comment on speed compared to the one`s you mention. I have compared to a Kind Shock and CB Joplin 3 & 4, and it wasn`t slower (that`s why i thought of the clamp being too tight). They also had lateral movement.


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## UncleFeet (Feb 11, 2009)

pastajet said:


> Sorry that makes no sense, as I don't see how the clamp force can impinge the stout post (edit: I could be wrong, it's a guess)? It still does the same thing off the bike, it's just slow as molasses. I ride very technical trails, and I want the post to react quickly, and the HILO is just too slow. It's fine when I am doing everyday stuff on more normal x-country trails, and less gnarly rock gardens. Even killjoyken made the same sort of remarks "I think most people will prefer the slower return speed." and "The Hilo has a slower return that allows you to stop the post anywhere in it's travel in case you don't need it all the way up."
> 
> Example: I have the post in the up position to climb a short rock ramp, I then need it to move down to its lowest setting for an upcoming severe ledge drop system The section beforehand is very short in distance, and the HILO is difficult to get down quick enough, and it tosses off my balance, which is not what I want in sketchy terrain.
> 
> ...


It's true, there's so little tolerance, with all the gear packed into a 27.2 width post, an overtight clamp can slow the return...I've seen it with my own eyes...


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## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

*Sorry, couldn't resist...*



pastajet said:


> Sorry that makes no sense, as I don't see how *the clamp force* can impinge the *stout post* (edit: I could be wrong, it's a guess)? It still does the same thing off the bike, it's just slow as molasses. I ride very technical trails, and I want the post to *react quickly*, and the HILO is just too slow. It's fine when I am doing everyday stuff on more normal x-country trails, and less gnarly rock gardens. Even killjoyken made the same sort of remarks "I think most people will prefer the slower return speed" and "The Hilo has a slower return that allows you to stop the post anywhere in it's travel in case you don't need it all the way up."
> 
> Example: I have the post in the up position to climb a short rock ramp, I then need it to move down to its lowest setting for an upcoming severe ledge drop system The section beforehand is very short in distance, and the HILO is difficult to get down quick enough, and it *tosses off* my balance, which is not what I want in sketchy terrain.
> 
> ...


I find when tossing off that lubing the shaft generally improves the clamp force on my stout post causing it to react quickly...:yesnod:


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

After reading this malarky I think I'll just get a Gravity Dropper.
:eekster:


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## kfother (Jul 12, 2010)

Buster Bluth said:


> After reading this malarky I think I'll just get a Gravity Dropper.
> :eekster:


Absolutely agree .

Getting the correct fitting instructions from the X-Fusion website,... buying a tube of grip paste to stop slippage and making sure your seatpost clamp isn`t too tight to restrict speed seems far worse than issues pertaining to securing the housing that holds the pin/actuating mechanism in place to the main tube in the GD.

GD fix that for free :thumbsup:


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## UncleFeet (Feb 11, 2009)

...I set proper cable tension from my HiLo remote today and the post is now running sweet...I guess a bit of slack in the cable stopped the mechanism from opening fully...

I love it again...


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## UncleFeet (Feb 11, 2009)

trumpus said:


> Thanks! Hadn't thought of that!
> 
> Nope, this one:


It's a spare boot for use on the remote setup cable. there's one on it already. It just looks different because it's all concertina'ed up...


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Regarding replacement cable and housing for the remote lever - will standard shifter cable and housing suffice or do I need something special.


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Standard cable, standard housing.


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Also in the event of a bad crash and breaking the barrel adjuster on the post, these will work as a replacement:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/21...Cables/Alligator-Barrel-Adjuster-w/Spring.htm

My friend recently did this to his HiLo, and this bit of bling actually turned out as a nice repair!


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## kfother (Jul 12, 2010)

pastajet said:


> The HILO has the same issue raising, and even pumping in additional air pressure and lubing the shaft does nothing to improve it?
> 
> Peace.


Just for the record. I now know what you mean about the performance of the/your HILO.

My riding buddy just bought an X-Fusion HILO (ordered for german website). I was shocked to see that it operated exactly as you described it. Slow, but the last inch/few inches seems to take an age to get there. Regardless of whether the seatpost is clamped or not, it is still sloooooooooooooow. Even after adding air, no difference.. well, it shot out a bit better till about half way.. then slow again.

Nothing like mine.... at all. The difference between them is night and day, mine is smooth all the way. He is using the 26.8mm whereas mine is the 31.6mm

I actually wonder if you can damage this seatpost by clamping it too tight initially. The result of which is the slow consistent rise afterwards.

So,.. I do beleive there are HILO`s out there that have this problem(and it is a problem). The issue for me is that my name is now mud, as i recommended the seatpost (as i have no issues with mine), and now my buddy has a poorly performing seatpost which will be difficult /expensive to return... X - Fusion don`t seem to be replying to the e-mail address (only way to contact them).

Has anyone else seen this issue? or does anyone have any other contact details for X-Fusion in the UK?


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## tailwaters (May 28, 2007)

I have had the same issue. Sent the 1st one back to the company just 4 days after it arrive. Never even rode with it. Received the next one and it to will not extend that last inch. Added a bit more air per the direction but still not happy with it


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Give it time. Add some lube to the post. Mine gets faster every ride. The seals (just like any fork) take time to break in.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

y0bailey said:


> Give it time. Add some lube to the post. Mine gets faster every ride. The seals (just like any fork) take time to break in.


What he said. Mine is better (though still not perfect) after another few rides and copious lube.


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## joezuri (Mar 26, 2011)

just fixed up the hilo on my bike. im running the 30.9, initially got the same slow in/out actions. after playing around with the tension adjustment knob, all is well. still cant get the smooth action that was on the video of the mtbr review though.. also, i checked the intial factory psi. its 10 psi from the box. so do check yours before installing it. 

im using the remote, did not lube the cables and i find that the remote requires some thumb power to activate it. gonna ride and test it first before stripping it down again hopefully will make the remote smooth as butter:thumbsup:


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## UncleFeet (Feb 11, 2009)

joezuri said:


> i find that the remote requires some thumb power to activate it. gonna ride and test it first before stripping it down again hopefully will make the remote smooth as butter:thumbsup:


I need to use the heel of my palm to activate the remote, the tendon in my Right thumb is stuffed after a fall many years ago...

Joezuri, did you find instructions to strip down and service your HiLo or did you just DO IT?


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## joezuri (Mar 26, 2011)

UncleFeet said:


> I need to use the heel of my palm to activate the remote, the tendon in my Right thumb is stuffed after a fall many years ago...
> 
> Joezuri, did you find instructions to strip down and service your HiLo or did you just DO IT?


Nope not gonna strip the post. will just strip the remote mechanism and relube the cables. Just play ard with the cable tension knob and lube the shaft from outside.

Can't find any instructions too. Servicing wise I'll go back to my lbs. Now figuring out to keep gunk out from the cable mechanism


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## giddyupandover (Jul 8, 2008)

my seat post, which i put on the bike 3 days ago, 27.2mm, has the same problem, good going up until the last inch or so. i found that if i bring it up let's say halfway , then stop then push the remote lever again then it will go up all the way. my seat post is NOT clamped too tight. I would like to see a reply from someone at X Fusion, maybe they can shed some loight on this???!!! For the problem of your seat moving forwards, backwards etc. in the rail area, what i did was lightly rough up the rail guides with a round file to give the rails something to grip on. Overall , very happy with the post so far, just would be nice to fix the last inch or so when raising the seat......HELP PLEASE??!!


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## Kyle2834 (May 4, 2007)

Bump for continued opinions and long term testing


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## duckcm18 (Sep 2, 2009)

Any updates guys?

I've seen them and wondered about their effectiveness given the fact they are about half the cost of the others, but at the moment seem to have mostly the same problems.


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

I am 8 months into mine. I had 1 warranty repaired for a batch that had a faulty piston and resulted in the post gradually dropping with weight on it.

New post ridden for about 5 months. Love it. Needed to add a bit of pressure initially, but now that it is broken in and set properly it is a dream. I just wipe the seal, add a bit of lube, and ride.

I wouldn't trade it for the more expensive options. The fact that I got it for dirt cheap only makes it sweeter.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

y0bailey said:


> I am 8 months into mine. I had 1 warranty repaired for a batch that had a faulty piston and resulted in the post gradually dropping with weight on it.
> 
> New post ridden for about 5 months. Love it. Needed to add a bit of pressure initially, but now that it is broken in and set properly it is a dream. I just wipe the seal, add a bit of lube, and ride.
> 
> I wouldn't trade it for the more expensive options. The fact that I got it for dirt cheap only makes it sweeter.


Word...mine needs pressure checked - we should do this sometime this week.

b


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

*HiLo update*

I have had mine on the bike for about 10 months now (27mm version). Noticed that there was some leakage of hydraulic fluid from the seal and because of this the seat post started to act as a suspension post a bit, with up to 1 inch of travel.

I decided to replace the fluid last week. De-pressurised the post, removed the valve core with the appropriate tool, and drained some very dirty looking hydraulic fluid from it (looks like the seal not only led fluid out, but also some dirt in). Flushed the post with new fluid to clean it out and filled it (post inverted and fully extended, filled it right to the top using a syringe and a blunt needle normally used for applying epoxy in hard to reach places).

After replacing the valve core and adding air to the appropriate pressure all is working sweet again. Done some 50 miles since with no further signs of fluid leakage.

If I had to do it again it probably wouldn't take more than 15 minutes. Probably worth doing every few months.

Cheers,

Cloggy

WARNING

Be careful after removing the valve core when operating the lever. If there is residual pressure in the post (which might happen if the post is not fully extended) the hydraulic fluid will squirt out. Found this out the hard way and I only just avoided getting it in my face.


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## Aresab (Mar 27, 2007)

Sounds like an oil change worked out for you. When you refilled the post, did you pull the lever to open the port between the two chambers? I know you are suppose to open the port(lever) when adding air, did you follow that procedure as well? I also have have the 27.2, and it's great, but would eventually like to change the oil. Oh, and what oil did you use? Thanks!


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## CloggyAbroad (Nov 8, 2008)

I did pull the lever to open the port between the two chambers, but I believe it is more important to ensure the post is fully extended. I used some DOT 5.1 high performance brake and clutch fluid.


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## lolaralph (Oct 9, 2011)

I broke down and bought a Hilo, so far it works great, my question is, does anyone else's seem really dry, noisy the first time you drop it after it sets for awhile? It seems that a good lubing would take care of this, but what to use, I don't want to use something that may swell the seals, any ideas?


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## Aresab (Mar 27, 2007)

Yes, mine & my wife's squeaks a bit the first time after it's been up for a while. I used some tri-flo on mine, but it helped only a bit. The post should loosen up after a bit of use. I find it's slow to return with the remote, so I pull the last inch up with my legs. There are other posts out there, but the choice was limite since I need a 27.2, so I went with the X-Fusion, for the most part, I'm pleased and don't want to ride without it. It's not perfect, but good enough and their support is excellent.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I spray some silicone spray on the seals the night before ride then wipe of the excess in the morning. It really helps get past that initial stickiness and keeps the stroke smooth throughout the ride. 

Now if there's only a way to speed up the return stroke on this baby.


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## lolaralph (Oct 9, 2011)

I appreciate the response guys, I think I'll try the silicone spray idea, I don't think that will hurt anything, although the tri flo may not either. It's good to know mine isn't the only one doing this. When I checked,the air pressure in mine initially the cap was,so tight I had to use a 10mm socket to get it off, and yes it unscrewed the entire assembly, I did loose a small amount of oil, but I put it back together and put in 30 psi, mine comes up pretty quick, and the entire length, no problem. One other thing, did anyone register theirs with x-fusion, I want to be sure there will be no issues with the warranty if needed,
Thanks


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

My HiLo REALLY stinks! I have had it for a little over a year and NEVER really been happy with it. Here's why:

- The remote lever is nearly impossible to depress. I have messed with cable tension, used the metal tube, without the metal tube, etc. I basically have to stand up on the pedals and use my entire body weight to get it to depress - it has never loosened up, not even a bit since day 1.

- The post is super noisy and has lots of stiction (as per other poster's accounts). I have used 10W motor oil (yoBailey's recommendation) and Slick Honey with a bit of improvement, but it is still a problem, consistently, every ride

- The post is REALLY slow to return. Not sure if this is related to my cable tension issue, but according to the X-fusion tech support, this is inherent in the design of the post.

For me, the last point is really what makes it unusable. On the trails I ride, with lots of ups and downs, I need a post I can drop and get back up quickly and the HiLo just isn't working for me. I have checked and adjusted the air pressure, I have diligently lubricated it, I have messed with cable tension and I am still super unhappy. I am essentially using it as a rigid post right now and planning on just taking it off in favor of my old carbon post.

The folks at X-Fusion have offered for me to exchange it and upgrade (for $100) to the newer version, but I am not sure if this is worth it. Anyone have the new one in hand yet that can offer some thoughts? Did I just get a bad post?


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## Aresab (Mar 27, 2007)

I have not experienced the remote being that hard to depress, something sounds a miss. There is a plastic tube that goes inside the spring at the post, is that there? Also, I lubed the cable and all hardware with Tri-flow. While not buttery smooth, it is fairly easy to push the remote. 
The slow return of the post is not optimal, but in my opinion, just a tug between my knees and pull up. Have you sent it to them to let them check it out, rebuild it? The last statement you made is interesting, what's the deal with the new version? Is it radically better?


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

RSabarese said:


> I have not experienced the remote being that hard to depress, something sounds a miss. There is a plastic tube that goes inside the spring at the post, is that there? Also, I lubed the cable and all hardware with Tri-flow. While not buttery smooth, it is fairly easy to push the remote.
> The slow return of the post is not optimal, but in my opinion, just a tug between my knees and pull up. Have you sent it to them to let them check it out, rebuild it? The last statement you made is interesting, what's the deal with the new version? Is it radically better?


I have not yet sent it back to X-fusion, as I was trying to decide if I should just bypass the rebuild and get the newer post (option for 125 mm and a larger diameter upper - hopefully with a better return rate and less issues with stiction, etc).

When I initially put the post on, I lubed the cable. The plastic insert is in place. It is, however, probably worth stripping the post and lever down and relubricating the cable and making sure that's not the cause. That being said, what I will probably end up doing is sending it to X-fusion for the upgrade/trade in, and if the post doesn't work for me, then selling it and opting for another adjustable post.

Any other thoughts would be great.


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## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

hey i used my hilo for the first time today, must admit it seems pretty solid, it was quite slow returning to full travel, so when i got home i decided to check the pressure was ok, upon adding the fox shock pump some oil spurted out (not much mind), i then depressed the lever and set it to 25 psi, however now when i drop the post the full 4 inches once i get off the seat comes back up say a quarter of a inch and locks then as normal, it does this in every position not just at the very bottom, say i drop it 2 inches it will travel back up 1/4 inch then lock...just wondered if you had any issues with this? the strange thing is now ive done the pressure to 25 it now goes back up super smooth with no delay....so its faster retracting but now doesnt seem to want to stay locked and rises a 1/4 ich each time....when fully extended its totally solid and locked out so thats good at least...

anyways sorry to trouble you just though perhaps im not alone on this?

or maybe this is normal, does the shaft always go right down to the bottom and stay there? very strange ive now got smooth return but it retracts a 1/4 inch in any position after its locked down?

its not the end of the world as 1/4 is not that noticeable but if its not right then that worries me more that something may break when out...

cheers


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## Blind (Apr 5, 2011)

I am in the market for a new seat post as my current one is simply not long enough so I have a question on this.

My current post is a thompson elite 28.6x330mm, and I ride with it at the max insertion mark which leaves 2.5" (63.5mm) in the seat tube, leaving me with a 266.5 seat post. 

So my big question is, what is the measurement of the 27.2 hilo post? The literature I've found says it's a 380mm length with 100mm minimum insert, so that would be 280mm?

It looks like I need a post that gives me at least a 298mm exposed post length to get the bike to fit me like I want and I was hoping that what I had read was just incorrect. This measurement isn't perfect depending on where that 380mm is measured, as the seat clamp and seat rails itself will come into play on the final measurement...


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

dammit...brand new hilo today, slow as f*ck on the return to full extension (up position)...cable not kinked, air pressure checked, collar not too tight...where should I be lubing this thing??? Otherwise a very nice looking and quality unit. I had hoped these issues would have been sorted out for 2012, nothing more frustrating than paying 250 for something that needs to be sent in for warranty to work properly (or as advertised)


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## tailwaters (May 28, 2007)

I gave up on my X-Fusion after sending back to the manufacture twice in a matter of months. The first time being the day after I purchased it. The last time a couple months after and it cost me a $100. After that I sold it on eBay and washed my hands of it.


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## Aresab (Mar 27, 2007)

Unfortunately, they designed the post that way. It will loosen a bit, but they did not want the rocket launch of some brands. I learned this when I called them, tried the lube (be careful not to use something that may harm the seals like tri-flo). After about 10 rides, it will loosen up, but I still find I have to pull up the last inch. It's well worth having the post and works really well with the exception of having to pull it up.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

azbeerguy said:


> dammit...brand new hilo today, slow as f*ck on the return to full extension (up position)...cable not kinked, air pressure checked, collar not too tight...where should I be lubing this thing??? Otherwise a very nice looking and quality unit. I had hoped these issues would have been sorted out for 2012, nothing more frustrating than paying 250 for something that needs to be sent in for warranty to work properly (or as advertised)


That is a known issue with this brand. It's been noted in reviews and on this thread. It was one of my pet peeves on the seatpost.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Response received this morning; can't say it's what I wanted to hear, but my options at 27.2 are limited so I guess I will deal with it.

_
The design of our post is supposed to slow down at the last 2 - 3 inches on the full height. It is designed like a rear shock so it has a top out design to it which makes it slow down towards full extension. The post do have a break in period as well. You can add 5psi to the max psi of 25psi in the post to help speed it up a bit. BUT YOU MUST FOLLOW THE DIRECTION EXACTLY ON THE WEBSITE ON HOW TO CHECK AND ADD AIR PRESSURE TO OUR HILO POST. IF YOU DON'T DO AS THE PDF SAY YOU CAN VOID THE WARRANTY AND RUIN THE POST.

The post should start working a bit smoother and faster after 100 cycles. Also drip some chain lube on the main seal. Wet chain lube works best. Dumonde Tech is what we use._


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## Aresab (Mar 27, 2007)

I agree with you, options are limited and this post is pretty good. Until someone comes out with a better post in 27.2, I'll stay here. After a ride or 2, you pull it up as needed and that will be that. The added air did minimal imho.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

azbeerguy said:


> Response received this morning; can't say it's what I wanted to hear, but my options at 27.2 are limited so I guess I will deal with it.
> 
> _
> The design of our post is supposed to slow down at the last 2 - 3 inches on the full height. It is designed like a rear shock so it has a top out design to it which makes it slow down towards full extension. The post do have a break in period as well. You can add 5psi to the max psi of 25psi in the post to help speed it up a bit. BUT YOU MUST FOLLOW THE DIRECTION EXACTLY ON THE WEBSITE ON HOW TO CHECK AND ADD AIR PRESSURE TO OUR HILO POST. IF YOU DON'T DO AS THE PDF SAY YOU CAN VOID THE WARRANTY AND RUIN THE POST.
> ...


After removing the post and COMPLETELY depressing the remote (helpful to have an extra set of hands) and adding the air pressure to 30psi, it works just like I wanted it to.

Props and much thanks to the X Fusion guys for the support and tips to check it out before I went nuts!

AZBG


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

Year out HiLo review:

The post has still been crazy solid. it is slow on the return, and I have learned to deal with it. The main thing I can say is that EVERY ride you should lube the post. I have been using motor oil that I use for my rebuilds on my lyric, and it still is performing perfectly.

My buddies HiLo leaked from below the seal at the collar. Make sure you check this point and screw it down tightly frequently. Not sure why it unscrews here, but just give it a tightening to make sure you don't run into the same problem. Mine was about 3 turns loose after the year of not checking it until I saw him have the problem. I REALLY wish they would post servicing instructions, because that would save me a world of grief if I knew what I would have to do when it stops performing as it should.,

This will easily hold me over until the next gen of posts come out. I couldn't live without it.

*X-fusion, if you are reading this give me some info on how to service it...I am competent and able. I don't want to live without my post, and I don't want to have to send it to you every year to make sure things run 100%. *


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

This is the are that I had a gap at. My buddy had a gap so large he was losing oil/fluid. Everyone check it.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Thanks for the heads up. My HILO just turned 1 year this week as well. It's been solid and has been working well. Had a few gripes with the seat collar slipping on me when it was new. Just like you, I've learned to deal with the slow return. So far so good!

+1 for having a service guide online. This is the best one I've found and is not officially from X Fusion but might help you guys:

X-Fusion Hilo Service - Bikes | Cycling | Mountain Biking on Cyclist No.1


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Well Matt, wish I was as enthusiastic about this post as you. I'm a year out on mine and it is off my bike and in the parts box. I may spring for the upgrade and exchange mine for the newest version but the slow return is something I just don't think I can get past. I may try the new one out and if it still doesn't meet expectations, then move on to another post (Kronolog?).


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## butasan (May 29, 2009)

My post(27.2 version) started leaking oil from the seal at the top of the collar after 30 hours or less of use. This happens when I sit on the saddle post fully(or any) extended.

I've rebuilt the post by myself, but symptom remains. By disassembling the post I was surprised to learn that Hilo had a kind of open bath design(no cartridge inside, somewhat ancient technology) where the tiny seal must withstand a fairly high oil pressure when sitting on a saddle. This explained why the seal has to be super tight (enough to cause a noise).

Since I rebuilt (*according to x-fusion I tampered*) the post by myself, X-fusion won't do RMA so I had no choice but trash it.

Some may have had a good luck with it, but looking at the deisgn I must say that X-fusion Hilo is as bad as or worse than notorious CB's Joplin.


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## tailwaters (May 28, 2007)

My Hi-Lo was a piece of junk as well. Went out on day two sent it back and had it re-built. Covered under warranty. Sat on the shelf for a few months and about 6 rides later started sticking and than blew again. Sent back again and cost me $100. Never again!!!


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## thrower78 (Dec 11, 2006)

My post has been working perfectly except for one aspect. When it was new when I sat on the saddle the post lost a couple mm of height. This has now migrated to about 1 inch or a little more when I sit on the saddle, it does not stay at full extention when I sit on the seat. Anyone know why this is, I can't see and fluid leaking anywhere??


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

First thing to try thrower:

Lower the post completely. Without pulling the lever, manually raise the post (aka pull up on it) until it is fully extended. While at full extension manually, then press the lever. Repeat this a few times and see if you have any improvement. You will hear a nice "swoosh" when you depress the lever. This lets any oil that has migrated go back to its correct position.

If that doesn't work and your post is in warranty, send it in. If you aren't in warranty or are a little more adventurous, you could also add fluid. I used 5wt fork oil, but some people use ATF fluid. I bought a core/valve removal tool from my local auto parts store and added fluid through there until overflowing. Put the valve back in, and done. Just make sure while you are adding fluid you do not depress or put pressure on the post, or pull the lever. 

If no seals are blow or internals broken, that should work. If there is more significant damage you won't have any luck.


I DON'T WORK FOR X-FUSION SO DO ALL OF THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. That being said I have successfully rebuilt and replaced all seals and the damn thing still works.


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## lolaralph (Oct 9, 2011)

I have a different method to solve a similar problem. I haul my bike in the back of my car lying on it's side, when I stand the bike upright it will have a small amount of vertical movement in the post. I push the post all the way down, hold it in that position and hold the lever open for a few seconds, this seems to move the air bubble to where it belongs. Occasionally if I'm in a hurry, holding the lever open, post lowered, tap on the post, this seems to speed up the process. You may also want to check the oil level in your post, they seem to be very sensitive to being slightly low, giving the suspension effect. Hope this helps.


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## wgr73 (Dec 29, 2006)

Good thread!


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Hi, first post so go easy. I've just got hold of a second hand Hilo (27.2) and all is well apart from I'm suffering from the same problem as thrower78, when I sit on the post it depresses about 10-15mm.
I've tried the depress, pull up manually and release, I get the swoosh but it doesn't solve the problem.

I'm therefore going to try adding some oil, I assume this some 5w Rock Oil is the right stuff? 

It’s also really squeaky if it’s not been depressed for 5-10minutes, is this just a bedding in thing as the post hasn’t had a great deal of use from what I know?

Cheers


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## Johnnydrz (Jul 8, 2005)

Hi fathomer, I've been using a HILO 27.2 since July. The squeak is always there after 5 minutes of not being actionned. I have also added some oil, 5W is the correct one to use. The simplest way I found was to remove all the air, (up-side-down of course) through the valve, with seatpost extended, AFTER having pumped it 5 or 6 times while holding the remote opened. Then removed the valve core and add oil with a seringe until it is completely full. Put back the valve core and pump it up to 25-30 pounds.


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Johnnydrz said:


> Hi fathomer, I've been using a HILO 27.2 since July. The squeak is always there after 5 minutes of not being actionned. I have also added some oil, 5W is the correct one to use. The simplest way I found was to remove all the air, (up-side-down of course) through the valve, with seatpost extended, AFTER having pumped it 5 or 6 times while holding the remote opened. Then removed the valve core and add oil with a seringe until it is completely full. Put back the valve core and pump it up to 25-30 pounds.


Thanks for that, much appreciated!

When you say "having pumped it 5 or 6 times" I assume you mean hold the remote open, push post down, then pull up and down 5-6 times whilst continually holding the remote open?

Cheers


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## Johnnydrz (Jul 8, 2005)

fathomer said:


> Thanks for that, much appreciated!
> 
> When you say "having pumped it 5 or 6 times" I assume you mean hold the remote open, push post down, then pull up and down 5-6 times whilst continually holding the remote open?
> 
> Cheers


Yep, that's EXACTLY what I mean! ... Sometimes, being french-canadian means my translating to english shows certain flaws...

Cheers!


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## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Johnnydrz said:


> Yep, that's EXACTLY what I mean! ... Sometimes, being french-canadian means my translating to english shows certain flaws...
> 
> Cheers!


Top man, I'll get some oil ordered and give it a go!


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

A little tidbit I just found for you guys. I had the dreaded slow return as well. This was after checking air pressure multiple times. I did notice that the air pressure would drop if I checked it after a few minutes. I changed my valve core and now it maintains pressure indefinitely and the slow return is gone. It still slows down like before at the top, but it's totally reasonable. What was happening was within a few minutes, the air would leak down to 5-10 psi. So even though I knew I was putting air pressure in properly, it wasn't maintaining it. This was the cause of my slow return.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

If anyone is interested, I've got a second version (not the SL) HiLo for sale. Black accents, 30.9/100mm drop with 2 short rides on it. 

Pm me if interested!


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## Shakester (Jun 26, 2012)

Didn't want to bump this thread, but I didn't want to start another one with the same topic. I've been riding a Hilo for a few weeks now and its an awesome post. It has its issues, but at this point, almost all dropper post has them. Its going to take a few more tries for these guys to perfect the technology. I gave up on my Joplin last year as that has issues up the ying yang from leaks to not returning to the max height. You read any review on a dropper seat post and all of them have negatives whether its the Reverb or the Command Post knocking your sack off with its speed.

My Hilo, out of the box, had too little air pressure in it. I bumped it up to 20 psi and it starts off slow for the first few inches then it shoots up at a good pace. Not as fast as a Command Post, but fast enough for me. People may see this as a negative, but I like it. With an infinite position post like this, its much easier to get into that cruiser position if needed. I have a 2013 and I know older models, there were issues with the seat clamp having to be tightened to the point it feels like you're going to break your allen wrench in order to get your seat to not move. The system in the new model is much better and I haven't had issues yet. Don't get me wrong, I've tried a few others ones that I liked and would probably pick over this one which includes the Fox Doss and the KS Lev, but at a $250.00 price tag which is $200 less than the Lev and $150 less than the Doss..its hard to go wrong.

For those who doesn't like the thumb remote, you may want to look into the Bat Remote which is the same system that Crank Brothers use on their Joplin 4. Much easier to activate. You can also use the remote from a KS Lev.


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## bluechair84 (Sep 30, 2008)

This thread seems to have become a bit of a mechanics lounge for the Hilo! I'm hoping someone might be able to help with a problem I'm emailing to the distros now. It won't lock in full extended position. I suppose it's like the release button is still depressed. The remote lever is still slightly loose (It sits better when tightening the cable nubbin) and the arm which depresses the button seems to be fully extended. Any thoughts?

---

Fixed, needed cycling a few times with the lever pressed.


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## Mike87 (Apr 8, 2010)

bluechair84 said:


> This thread seems to have become a bit of a mechanics lounge for the Hilo! I'm hoping someone might be able to help with a problem I'm emailing to the distros now. It won't lock in full extended position. I suppose it's like the release button is still depressed. The remote lever is still slightly loose (It sits better when tightening the cable nubbin) and the arm which depresses the button seems to be fully extended. Any thoughts?
> 
> ---
> 
> Fixed, needed cycling a few times with the lever pressed.


Ran into this same issue. Turned out that the bottom out o-ring wedged itself into the valve and was keeping it open (like the release is depressed). Removed the o-ring, topped up the oil and set the air pressure. All is good. It was about a 10 minute fix.


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## bluechair84 (Sep 30, 2008)

Mike87 said:


> Ran into this same issue. Turned out that the bottom out o-ring wedged itself into the valve and was keeping it open (like the release is depressed). Removed the o-ring, topped up the oil and set the air pressure. All is good. It was about a 10 minute fix.


Good to know


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