# Mongoose Beast modifications



## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

I started another thread ( http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/walmart-mongoose-beast-sucks-846569.html ) hoping that it would be about the bike itself and modifying the bike. It didn't work. I'm going to try again.

I knew what I was getting into, and I'm glad I bought my Beast. I'm not saying it is an awful bike. My premise is that the bike is close to unrideable in its stock form. It's way too heavy and the gearing is way too hard. The bike will be modified! This ought to be fun!

Let's keep this thread to discussions about the bike!

How have you modified your Beast? What parts did you use? How much weight did you save? Got any pictures?


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Larry Endomorph said:


> How have you modified your Beast? What parts did you use? How much weight did you save? Got any pictures?


Thanks for starting this again!

I might drill out my wheels later this afternoon.


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## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

So does the rear take a special cog to change the gearing or just a standard cog?


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## Scoobytao (Mar 19, 2011)

AC/BC said:


> I might drill out my wheels later this afternoon.


Would you please weigh your wheels before and after. Especially the front. Maybe we can make some deductions to arrive at the approximate weight of the rim itself.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Mine doesn't arrive until next week ... But if no one has done so by then, I'll throw up any and every number I can think of as they relate to sizes, geometry, and weight (to the limits of my scale).

Tires = Already have a set of Origin8 Devist8er's on the way, and I'll give an impression of them, also ... But must admit that I can only compare them a standard width MTB tires that I have ridden, so it won't be a proper comparison.

My intention is to ride it for a bit, and sort things out, but am thinking along the lines of widening a set of disc capable hubs Al La *Sryanak*'s method - http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/widening-hub-832387.html#post10049212

Then coming up with appropriate mounts for the calipers, and investigating at the same time, what a triple chainring might do for things.

The basic idea being that as many components as possible be taken from the junk box, or salvaged off an as yet to be found donor bike.

It will never be ultra-high-tech and modern, but what I buy today is usually soon outdated, anyway.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Larry Endomorph said:


> I started another thread ( http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/walmart-mongoose-beast-sucks-846569.html ) hoping that it would be about the bike itself and modifying the bike. It didn't work. I'm going to try again.
> 
> I knew what I was getting into, and I'm glad I bought my Beast. I'm not saying it is an awful bike. My premise is that the bike is close to unrideable in its stock form. It's way too heavy and the gearing is way too hard. The bike will be modified! This ought to be fun!
> 
> ...


Can you post pics of the bottom bracket?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

az, it's a cup and cone square taper bb. 68mm diameter, and really long. i saw a picture somewhere. i think it was the blogger with the "90 of the fun at 10 percent of the cost" post. not that post, but one of the followups. edit: nope, not that one.

Bikeabuser posted it below. Thank you, BA.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AZ,
Here ya go

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...beast-review-etc-walmart-fatty-p1010442r2.jpg

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...-beast-review-etc-walmart-fatty-p1010446r.jpg


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Thanks Gents.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

*Weights*

Tire 1........2821g
Tire 2........2785g

F.Wheel.....1846g
R.Wheel.....2713g

Tube 1.......743g
Tube 2.......750g

Rim Strips...95g/ea

Bar+Grips...671g

Post.........449g
Seat... who cares

Crank.....1180g

Pedals......379g


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## Scoobytao (Mar 19, 2011)

Hmmm, this is interesting. 

Sounds like the rim weighs less than 1300 grams and maybe somewhere as low as 1250 grams before drilling. Not too bad considering the very thin walled Flattop 100s were about 1130 before drilling and heck even the Uma 90s are about 1080 grams even with the lightening holes.

That WAG is based on the assumption that 36 spokes (14 gauge straight) weigh about 240 grams for typical fat wheel lengths of about 260 mm and cheap brass nipples weigh about a gram a piece, and an aluminum 135 front hub weighs in the 240ish gram range but this relies on solid steel axles so add another 50 grams. Total 566 grams.


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

750 gram tubes!!!:eekster::eekster::eekster:

And I thought that my OEM On-One Fatty tubes were made of lead at 600 grams each!

It will be an easy and cheap upgrade to go to Q-tubes at about 300 grams each.


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## Scoobytao (Mar 19, 2011)

With a tube like that i say you just glue the tube to the rim like a sew up and run it sans tire.

Could be the new trend. Forget tubeless, I'm biking tireless-ly.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> .
> 
> Tires = Already have a set of Origin8 Devist8er's on the way, and I'll give an impression of them, also ... But must admit that I can only compare them a standard width MTB tires that I have ridden, so it won't be a proper comparison.


Here ya go:
Product Preview - Origin8 Devist8er Fat-Bike Tire | FAT-BIKE.COM

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/origin8-or8-devist8er-4-0-tire-765426.html


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Not really an upgrade...


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Neither is this...


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

I plan on ordering some Devistater tires as well...
Also gotta get a smaller chainring...
Ordered a threaded to threadless adapter..

I also have access to a tig welder.
Just might slacken up the front and shorten the rear...

WTF it's a $200 bike....


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Son, all your paint is gone!


Houndog45 said:


> Not really an upgrade...


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Bill in Houston said:


> Son, all your paint is gone!


 Because stock sucks.......


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

I'm not new to upgrading Walgooses hahahahha ...

I must add that it now sports some Racing Ralphs
and a brooks saddle...and bb7s.....


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

whatcha gonna put on in its place?


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

duggus said:


> Here ya go:
> Product Preview - Origin8 Devist8er Fat-Bike Tire | FAT-BIKE.COM
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/origin8-or8-devist8er-4-0-tire-765426.html


I read that, and they're obviously better than what comes on the bike.

A pair should be arriving Tuesday.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Houndog45 said:


> I plan on ordering some Devistater tires as well...
> Also gotta get a smaller chainring...
> Ordered a threaded to threadless adapter..
> 
> ...


I've had the same thought ... Gotta get it and ride it first.

ETA,
I've got access to CAD software and the ability to perform analysis, so it might be possible to get decent response via fork modification ... Just doing an overlay, it appears that the head angle is 74 degrees.
Angles will be the first thing I measure.


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

bikeabuser said:


> I've had the same thought ... Gotta get it and ride it first.
> 
> ETA,
> I've got access to CAD software and the ability to perform analysis, so it might be possible to get decent response via fork modification ... Just doing an overlay, it appears that the head angle is 74 degrees.
> Angles will be the first thing I measure.


Please keep us updated...


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Bill in Houston said:


> whatcha gonna put on in its place?


 Clear coat.....


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

*Wally Drilliums*

1.5" hole cuts, left two spaces near valve uncut

Front wheel: 1549g
Rear wheel: 2490g
Shed 524g

The drilling felt much the same as the Daryls - good cutting resistance, similar thickness.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Houndog45 said:


> Clear coat.....


very nice.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Houndog45 said:


> Please keep us updated...


Absolutely ... But the bike might not get here until Friday.
Kind of strange, in the cart Thursday, with an actual delivery date ... Waited till Friday, and it became a 2nd thru 5th estimate.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> 1.5" hole cuts, left two spaces near valve uncut
> 
> Front wheel: 1549g
> Rear wheel: 2490g
> ...


Sweet ... Are you gonna paint them ?


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

bikeabuser said:


> Sweet ... Are you gonna paint them ?


I think i'm going to leave them alone. My goal is to get this bike to 32lbs and spend less then $120 doing so.


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## jackbombay (Nov 15, 2010)

AC/BC said:


> 1.5" hole cuts, left two spaces near valve uncut
> 
> Front wheel: 1549g
> Rear wheel: 2490g
> ...


 It looks like you used a handheld drill for that, yea? Nice work, did you just use a half round file to break the edge of all the holes?


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

What does 524 grams work out to in lbs??


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

I don't understand why the mixture of measurements on bikes..
Tire size is in inches,,etc,,,other stuff in metric..
I'm old and stubborn ..metric makes no sense to me whatsoever..


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Ok I googled. just a little over a LB...


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> I think i'm going to leave them alone. My goal is to get this bike to 32lbs and spend less then $120 doing so.


Based on what's been posted, 32 seems attainable.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I don't understand why the mixture of measurements on bikes..
Tire size is in inches,,etc,,,other stuff in metric..
I'm old and stubborn ..metric makes no sense to me whatsoever..


Metric is all based on ten. It's actually pretty easy. I'm 47 and I completely understand what you're sayin', but try it. It's easy.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

jackbombay said:


> It looks like you used a handheld drill for that, yea? Nice work, did you just use a half round file to break the edge of all the holes?


I use a Dremel with a deburring bit but a file would probably work just as well.


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## Trower (Apr 27, 2009)

Houndog45 said:


> What does 524 grams work out to in lbs??


1.155


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

454 grams per pound.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Can't wait to get the wheels and tires back on the bike and test it out. 

Just crunched the numbers. I'm looking at 10.62lbs of weight savings just doing the drilling, new tubes, and some "newish" used rubber. And thats all rotating mass, where it counts.


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Looks like a set of triple trees fixes front end flop..

The adventures of bighit and his $200 Walmart fatbike | The UNDERGROUND!


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Houndog45 said:


> Looks like a set of triple trees fixes front end flop..
> 
> The adventures of bighit and his $200 Walmart fatbike | The UNDERGROUND!


Didn't bighit say his forks were screwed up ?

A guy on bighit's (I think) forum said he can ride no-handed with stock everything ... Just say'n.
The problem might not even exist.

ETA;
Not trying to turn this thread into an argument, but wheel flop is highly subjective, and because such a change absolutely affects the geometry of the entire bike, there will be an obvious perceived difference in handling.

The trail doesn't look to be excessive, and once I take delivery, I'll have more factual information to share about this subject.

Tires also come into play, and he did change his tires ... Maybe they weren't a good choice for this geometry and aggravated a situation.

The jury's still out ... But if it worked for him ... Good deal !!!


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

^ The fork didn't bother me that much but I do get where he's coming from. Perhaps once I get this bike traveling faster i'll find the problem more bothersome.



Houndog45 said:


> Looks like a set of triple trees fixes front end flop..
> 
> The adventures of bighit and his $200 Walmart fatbike | The UNDERGROUND!


Nice. I'm hoping that drilling the rims and swapping the tubes is enough for me to not have to gear down. I think BigHit is still running stock tubes and non-drillium wheels.

.


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Nevermind on the triple tree,I just noticed that wasn't the stock wheel...


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Geeeez....

You guys are all bonkers. I kinda like that... personally.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Interesting setup
That (underground) thread is formated nicely for mobile use, why can't MTBR follow suit. Their mobile version sucks on an Iphone


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

TrailMaker said:


> Geeeez....
> 
> You guys are all *bonkers*. I kinda like that... personally.


That's why I love that cruiser frame you built 

Everything done to this bike, will be done with the intention of transferring most of it to another frame, someday.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> That's why I love that cruiser frame you built
> 
> Everything done to this bike, will be done with the intention of transferring most of it to another frame, someday.


Your own frame, one might surmise? Hope, even?


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

TrailMaker said:


> Your own frame, one might surmise? Hope, even?


Someday ... Been practicing my brazing 

Might even make it a retirement plan.


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Yep my forks bent. That's the reason why I was having a hard time getting the wheel in. One leg looked off and sure enough it is. I got to bend it back now.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)




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## Siddhartha Valmont (Feb 19, 2013)

These wheels looks great with HuDu and drilled rims 

Sorry for the already covered questions, but the threads about the Walgoose Beast keep on multiplying and it is difficult to find technical details among arguments (no offense meant):

Are the wheels built symmetrically ? Or if the front/rear is built with an offset, is it because of the frame/fork or tech constrain (chain-line...) ?

Is the front and rear hub 135mm ? Or is it a 100mm front / 135mm rear ? Or 135mm front / 170mm rear ?


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Siddhartha Valmont said:


> These wheels looks great with HuDu and drilled rims
> 
> Sorry for the already covered questions, but the threads about the Walgoose Beast keep on multiplying and it is difficult to find technical details among arguments (no offense meant):
> 
> ...


Symmetrical build. 135/170 hub sizes.

If you get one of these bikes, check your spoke tension. Mine needed to be brought up and another guy on here reported his spoke holes had "volcanoed" - YIKES!


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## Siddhartha Valmont (Feb 19, 2013)

AC/BC said:


> Symmetrical build. 135/170 hub sizes


That's great news !!!

It means having a summer wheelset (29er or 26) won't be as much a nightmare as with the original Pugs offset frame.

This Walgoose might not be a great finished product as-is, but seems to have a lot of potential as a customization project starting point


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> Symmetrical build. 135/170 hub sizes.
> 
> If you get one of these bikes, check your spoke tension. Mine needed to be brought up and *another guy on here reported his spoke holes had "volcanoed"* - YIKES!


Who reported that ?
I've only heard that from duggus, and I don't think he owns a Beast.

That doesn't mean it's not true ... But until I see pictures, or read it from the source, I'm not gonna be repeating the claim.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

IDK, hard to sift through all the BS.

Generally speaking the whole bike should be looked over due to lack of QC. 

It's a gamble. There will be winners and there will be losers. And sometimes BIG losers. That's the game. If you don't like the rules, don't play. Overall I think I ended up winning out with my purchase.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

For $200, I've got nothing to complain about.

And totally with ya on the QC thing ... I'm going through the whole bike before I even ride it.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

*Hope*

Ok, ive pretty much maxed out the rotational weight savings on this bike without doing anything too extreme. I can now happily report that i'm able to cruise at low intensity at 10-12mph flat land. At moderate intensity flat land I can avg around 12-15mph, and at full sprint i can max out the gearing.

The bad news is this thing is still a beast up hills. I have yet to weight it. Maybe ill do that in a few days. Also note that the speeds I give were all on paved surfaces. I haven't taken the bike off road yet.

Mods:
300g Saddle
250g XLC post
2.2 "lite" tubes
Black Duck Tape rim tape
Hudu's


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## jackbombay (Nov 15, 2010)

I don't know what city that is, but I see you stopped at the "dream girls" for a pic ;-)


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

and the bike also marked its territory


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## Mk3Rider (Dec 7, 2008)

Minneapolis



jackbombay said:


> I don't know what city that is, but I see you stopped at the "dream girls" for a pic ;-)


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## JoeG (Nov 14, 2012)

> i don't know what city that is, but i see you stopped at the "dream girls" for a pic ;-)





> and the bike also marked its territory


lol :thumbsup:


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Dan GSR said:


> and the bike also marked its territory


 :drumroll: Beast


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## Volsung (Nov 24, 2011)

AC/BC, please don't ever park that next to my moonlander.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Volsung said:


> AC/BC, please don't ever park that next to my moonlander.


Worried about them mating?


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## Siddhartha Valmont (Feb 19, 2013)

Velobike said:


> Worried about them mating?


(off-topic)

He is maybe worried that he will unconsciously take this other fatbike home instead of his Moonlander   

(/off-topic)


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> Ok, ive pretty much maxed out the rotational weight savings on this bike without doing anything too extreme. I can now happily report that i'm able to cruise at low intensity at 10-12mph flat land. At moderate intensity flat land I can avg around 12-15mph, and at full sprint i can max out the gearing.
> 
> The bad news is this thing is still a beast up hills. I have yet to weight it. Maybe ill do that in a few days. Also note that the speeds I give were all on paved surfaces. I haven't taken the bike off road yet.
> 
> ...


You need to do a gear change ... Right now you're riding a fixie, and it's geared wrong.


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## kbollox (May 27, 2008)

AC/BC - I'm sure I'll see you out and about in the 612. I'll be on the red beast.. though probably not over the weekend as someone bent my seatpost last night. Got one on order at OoOBs. 

Auto-setback.


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## farleybob (May 22, 2012)

Oh My!! :0)


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## Flat Again??? (Dec 24, 2012)

Minneapolis looks like a very nice city. I appreciate the pics!


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Back in stock, get em while you can.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Volsung said:


> AC/BC, please don't ever park that next to my moonlander.


That sounds like a dare. 



bikeabuser said:


> You need to do a gear change ... Right now you're riding a fixie, and it's geared wrong.


This Beast actually could use a bigger gear except the start and go would require so much work. And with the current gear, my legs start to red line past 95. My new fear is that im going to burn up the rear hub braking.



kbollox said:


> AC/BC - I'm sure I'll see you out and about in the 612. I'll be on the red beast.. though probably not over the weekend as someone bent my seatpost last night. Got one on order at OoOBs.
> 
> Auto-setback.


:rock:


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> My new fear is that im going to burn up the rear hub braking.
> 
> :rock:


Mine grinds something terrible, and the (internal) lock tab looks very weak.


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## Guest (Apr 6, 2013)

bikeabuser said:


> Mine grinds something terrible, and the (internal) lock tab looks very weak.


thats ok for another 200 clams you too can have a pr.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

I took my bike out in the rain and rode down a few stair cases and off a few 1-2.5ft ledges. The rims are holding up good. I did hit some off road stuff too. But the gearing is really better for cruising. I think if i was going to regularly use this bike off road i'd want to put a smaller cog on it like bighit has done.






























bikeabuser said:


> Mine grinds something terrible, and the (internal) lock tab looks very weak.


That sucks you got a dud. I bet if you call Walmart and explain that the hub is defective, they'll send you another one. Also, you'll want to grease the BB and headset. Everything is dry on these bikes.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

nvphatty said:


> thats ok for another 200 clams you too can have a pr.


When it dies, or gets replaced, the new back hub will ultimately end up on another frame ... Now who makes frames with 170mm spacing on the back 
Ehh, might have to make one ... Someday.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> That sucks you got a dud. I bet if you call Walmart and explain that the hub is defective, they'll send you another one. Also, you'll want to grease the BB and headset. Everything is dry on these bikes.


Not that worried about replacing it ... Ride it till it dies ... I sure didn't buy it for the hubs.
And everything on mine had grease.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

MiniTrail said:


> of course it did sponsorboi


Sorry that your's wasn't ... But I'm sure you remedied that


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Truativ 32 T Crankset,23 T Cog...Heat Bueing effect with propane torch,light glitter dust on frame,heavy glitter on forks...Waiting on more stickers to arrive for stickerbomb...


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

bikeabuser said:


> AC/BC said:
> 
> 
> > bikeabuser said:
> ...


Turns out it's an annoying brake drag thing ... Just keep pedaling, and it's quiet.


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

Anybody in the 6' range riding a Beast? I'm willing to buy a new seatpost and even a longer reach stem. This isn't for typical/traditional high-end fatbiking (obviously). Just for riding around having a smile with the boy, as a replacement for the 80's cruiser I gave away last year that filled that role.


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## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

I was, had a 400mm seatpost and a 90mm stem with some riser bars, but since all the bearings in the wheels and headset were dry as a bone, I decided to remove the bottom bracket....they were dry as well, but as some others have reported the bottom bracket was cross threaded. Walmart now owns my beast again. Rip walgoose. How I hardly knew the....


Bulldog said:


> Anybody in the 6' range riding a Beast? I'm willing to buy a new seatpost and even a longer reach stem. This isn't for typical/traditional high-end fatbiking (obviously). Just for riding around having a smile with the boy, as a replacement for the 80's cruiser I gave away last year that filled that role.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Cross thread ... Mine started to do that when I put it back together, but I noticed it, and didn't keep wrenching.

Tight-ass thread, though ... Easy to cross-thread the thing if you're not careful.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Road down more stair cases today. One had super long treads that were about as long as the wheelbase of the bike. The bike would drop front and rear at the same time. It was awesome. Still no issues with the rims.


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

jvm051 said:


> I was, had a 400mm seatpost and a 90mm stem with some riser bars, but since all the bearings in the wheels and headset were dry as a bone, I decided to remove the bottom bracket....they were dry as well, but as some others have reported the bottom bracket was cross threaded. Walmart now owns my beast again. Rip walgoose. How I hardly knew the....


Thanks. I ordered a green one. You getting another?


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AC/BC said:


> Road down more stair cases today. One had super long treads that were about as long as the wheelbase of the bike. The bike would drop front and rear at the same time. It was awesome. Still no issues with the rims.


Impossible ... That thing is a piece, and you're an idiot who has wasted their money


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## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

No I just returned it. I am going to wait for a company like Nashbar or performance to come out with one. Its too bad about the Walgoose because it was fun. Funny to see the reactions from people too. 


Bulldog said:


> Thanks. I ordered a green one. You getting another?


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Houndog45 said:


> Truativ 32 T Crankset,23 T Cog...Heat Bueing effect with propane torch,light glitter dust on frame,heavy glitter on forks...Waiting on more stickers to arrive for stickerbomb...


Nice old school look.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Bulldog said:


> Anybody in the 6' range riding a Beast? I'm willing to buy a new seatpost and even a longer reach stem. This isn't for typical/traditional high-end fatbiking (obviously). Just for riding around having a smile with the boy, as a replacement for the 80's cruiser I gave away last year that filled that role.


deorman on this page is 6'2" and comments on how it fits him.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

My inlaws live on the coast and walk the beach all the time. They saw pix of the "Beast" at their local Walmart and a guy told them it was designed to cruise the sandy beach. They called me before ordering them and I told them I'd find out some info. 

Are these bikes very ridable on compact sand in stock form, it will it be too hard for casual riders to pedal? They arent looking to mod them or really do anything other than ride them.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

even after you fix the gearing, you'll have to convince your dad to run the tires at 8 psi, which could be a challenge all by itself.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Are these bikes very ridable on compact sand in stock form, it will it be too hard for casual riders to pedal? They arent looking to mod them or really do anything other than ride them.


Ask bikeabuser... he is the resident expert on them 

They are a fantastic deal for your typical Wal-mart shopper and they should have no need to ever maintain it (because *typical* walmart bike buyers have no knowledge of bike maintenance). They should have no problems hammering it on the beach or any other terrain... after all, it IS an "all terrain" bike according to the straight-shooters over at Wallyworld of wonders!

OOFTA. I just had to, I'm sorry. It's a slow day, Friday, and I'm bored.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

^^^ You remind me of a moth LOL


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> ^^^ you remind me of a moth lol


DITTO!!!!


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

I guess I should cry, because you once again bumped this thread LOL

Soon, very soon ... Vee Rubber will be selling their line of tires ... IN WALMART & your LBS.
Your choices in Fat Tires will increase ... And you can thank the bike this thread is about, for bringing you lower prices.

Experience the POWER of MASS MARKETING


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

MiniTrail said:


> well we had yesterday off from this bullsh!t
> 
> be thankful for that I guess


Don't worry, next round of Beasts will be delivered very soon.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Mr. Lynch said:


> My inlaws live on the coast and walk the beach all the time. They saw pix of the "Beast" at their local Walmart and a guy told them it was designed to cruise the sandy beach. They called me before ordering them and I told them I'd find out some info.
> 
> Are these bikes very ridable on compact sand in stock form, it will it be too hard for casual riders to pedal? They arent looking to mod them or really do anything other than ride them.


Assembly quality is a bit of a crap shoot, but if you buy in the store you can pick&choose. The fat tires do cruise sand well - once aired down to 8-10 psi. The gearing is ok for hard surface, but needs to be changed for sand, especially to get across the soft/loose to get to the wet stuff. You've got 36x18 stock. You can get as low as a 23t cog - but you'll have to get a new chain to add more than 2 teeth. I run 34x20 on my 29er, a 49" gear. Low enough to climb/do hard stuff if standing, but still plenty high enough to cruise. 36x18 is 58", 36x21 is 50", 36x22 is 47", 36x23 is 45". My Moonlander has a 3spd hub, low is 41". I went up a very soft arroyo last week, and it was hard work - I could stay seated for a bit, but would have to stand for "rough" sections and to regain momentum. If you swap out the stock square taper cranks you could keep the same chain (total number of teeth on both cogs) and go 34x20 or 32x22 (42") depending on what rings came on the cranks.


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## maxforce (Mar 8, 2011)

wadester said:


> pick&choose...8-10 psi...If you swap out the stock square taper cranks you could keep the same chain (total number of teeth on both cogs) and go 34x20 or 32x22 (42") depending on what rings came on the cranks.


Brilliant information. That's what this thread is about; how to make the beast better.


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

I'm running 32/22 on mine and it's ok for off road. On the road with black Floyd's I spun it out very easy. 

I also think there is enough room in the drop outs to swap rear cogs depending on where your going without breaking the chain.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Hey;

I asked the bike guy once and he said "Sure... we can sell it to you still in the box." Taking it home that way would most likely be of benefit to any buyers here reading this, and to the bike as well. This assuming that anyone reading this is a better assembly person than the Walmart dood.


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Misfit FU2 bars,crank bros loc on grips,mongoose stem I had.
Origin 8 quill adapter..
Red stripes on wheels with pinstripe tape...


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

Undergroundvelo Decal....


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Nice, I like it.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

I'm not sure which quill adapter I need.

Will either of these work? If so, is one better than the other?

Amazon.com: Profile Design Threadless Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch): Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Origin8 1-1/8" Threaded to 1-1/8" Threadless Quill Stem Adapter: Sports & Outdoors

If these won't work, please point me to one that will.

Thanks!


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

Larry Endomorph said:


> I'm not sure which quill adapter I need.
> 
> Will either of these work? If so, is one better than the other?
> 
> ...


Bottom one. The fork is 1-1/8"


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

Ordered one for my son. Came today. True: Every bearing over-tightened. Disassemble front and rear axles, clean and re-grease and properly tighten. Remove fork, clean races, re-grease, reassemble properly tightened. Frame rust-treated with Fluid Flilm. Yet to do: Disassemble BB, clean, inspect bearings, properly reassemble. Yet to do: seal tubes with homemade "Stans." Yet to do down the road: order a 22 tooth rear cog and replace the 18 tooth stock cog.

About what I expected from Wally World. I think my boy will have a blast with it, though.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

Can anybody recommend a 22 tooth rear cog?

Would any of these work?

Amazon.com: KT Hub Cassette Body E-Type Sprocket-22T: Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Sturmey Archer 1/8" 22t Coaster Brake Cog: Sports & Outdoors

Others?

Thanks!


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## kbollox (May 27, 2008)

The Sturmey is what you're looking for w/ three spline design. The stock KMC chain is 3/32 not 1/8*

I have not changed the rear cog so I don't personally know if a 1/8" is compatible. Others seem to have had no problem.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

kbollox said:


> The Sturmey is what you're looking for w/ three spline design. The stock KMC chain is 3/32 not 1/8


I'm confused. Isn't the chain on the Beast 1/8 inch?


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## kbollox (May 27, 2008)

I swear it used to say 3/32 on the Wally site, now it isn't listed. It's definately a KMC Z chain - the only other thing printed on it is "2L-2"


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

So this one should work?

Amazon.com: Sturmey Archer 1/8" 22t Coaster Brake Cog: Sports & Outdoors

Thanks again.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

*My Beast So Far*









So far, I've added a threadless stem adapter, stem and carbon DH bars I had lying around. Also added a new seatpost/seat and clipless pedals.

Drilled the rims (my first time doing this) and put on some Devist8er tires with regular old 26x2.35 tubes.

It's WAY lighter (still heavy though) and I've actually taken it out a few times on some real singletrack and I have to say, it's a blast!

That being said, I had a pedal strike on a rock yesterday, ate sh*t and bent the BB spindle.

Any ideas where I can get a replacement?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

we think this is it. it has internal threads on the end instead of studs, but seems to be close enough otherwise.
Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

while you're at it, google yst cup and bearing kit, and see if you want to spend another 8 bucks to replace the bearings.

I like your bike. I want to do pretty much the same thing with mine once I get it. I'll need a smaller rear cog, too, to ride up some of the steep stuff around here.

edit - rumor has it that that part doesn't work
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mongoose-beast-review-etc-walmart-fatty-846019-13.html#post10347358


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

I like your bike. I want to do pretty much the same thing with mine once I get it. I'll need a smaller rear cog, too, to ride up some of the steep stuff around here.[/QUOTE]

Oh yeah, I put a 20t cog on it (which makes it rideable on actual trails.

The black paint job was an eipc fail. I'm hoping to do a nice paint job on it this weekend. Maybe white frame with lime green wheels? =)

Thanks for the tip on the spindle. I think I'll go ahead and order one and maybe the bearing cups as well.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

shoot, man, i meant a bigger cog. based on the ratios i find myself using on my current mtb, i am going to switch the front crank to 32t and the rear to 23t. if that is too tall, i'll go 22t in front, and the original 18t in back. i'll spin out in a hurry on the flats, but i figure what's the use of tons of traction on hills if i can't turn the pedals?

I want to paint mine too. I'm thinking flat orange. I'm hoping the flat/satin will look cool and help hide my poor painting skills.

Can't go wrong with lime green wheels!  With white or yellow gorilla tape in the holes.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> View attachment 792007
> ...That being said, I had a pedal strike on a rock yesterday, ate sh*t and bent the BB spindle....


No no no! You're new here obviously. Try again, something like this...

Climbing a steep rock yesterday, my gorilla legs put so much power through the pedals that I bent the BB spindle.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

*Friday night and a couple cans of spray paint*

Here's what ended up happening.

I like it, although my gf doesn't get it. First thing she said was "Why are there polka dots on the wheels?"


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

pretty spiffy. your gf is hilarious.


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

My Walbeast came with a bent spindle. Perhaps I need to strike it on a rock to straighten it out.


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## Houndog45 (Oct 27, 2010)

WTF? It didn't fall apart??


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

I've bent mine also ... It seems to be the weak link.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Nice work Jim! Is that a Finnish last name?

I'm gonna go ride now.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Looked this morning;

No Fat at the local WallyMart yet.....
-
-
-
(well... besides the clientele. )


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Houndog45 said:


> WTF? It didn't fall apart??


I'm sure it did, but he's lying about it. I was told that these things fall apart immediately.



bikeabuser said:


> I've bent mine also ... It seems to be the weak link.


To repair the spindle, maybe find a blacksmith. It's beyond the scope of a bike shop. Seriously, I can't believe you guys bent them... it's apparently so long it needs another bearing righ in the middle. 



TrailMaker said:


> Looked this morning;
> 
> No Fat at the local WallyMart yet.....
> -
> ...


Same situation here, both bike-wise and clientele-wise.


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

I see the new Vee Rubber Vee 8s are being sold at Jenson.I'm really on the fence about the Walgoose...
I like 'em, but if it's gonna be super hard for me to pedal with my prosthetic foot, then it won't work for me.Is it really hard to pedal one even after re-gearing?
Vee Rubber Vee 8 Tire > V > Vee Rubber | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Yo zarr, I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain. You can gear a bike for anything but it's only good for that one condition that you geared it for. I think with your leg, you'll want to switch gears depending on where you ride and fatigue-factor. Also it has a coaster brake which requires you back-pedal to stop the bike. You probably want hand brakes


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

AC/BC said:


> Yo zarr, I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain. You can gear a bike for anything but it's only good for that one condition that you geared it for. I think with your leg, you'll want to switch gears depending on where you ride and fatigue-factor. Also it has a coaster brake which requires you back-pedal to stop the bike. You probably want hand brakes


I hear ya,no Walbeast for me.I'll stick with my 650b projects for something new.
Hope everybody who got the Beast enjoys them.I have to pass I think.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Bill in Houston said:


> To repair the spindle, maybe find a blacksmith. It's beyond the scope of a bike shop. Seriously, I can't believe you guys bent them... it's apparently so long it needs another bearing righ in the middle.


It's not unrideable, but I've got access to TIG, so I'll probably cut, and extend another square drive, while beefing the center, to reduce flex.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

AC/BC said:


> ...I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain...


I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.

The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.

A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Velobike said:


> I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.
> 
> The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.
> 
> A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.


FWIW, the comment I made was really directed by the fact that the OP has one leg. I don't have one leg, but if I did, I wouldn't want this bike. Even if he's fine with one gear, there is still the fact that it's coaster brake and I think that would be very difficult to operate, but maybe not?

I guess my advice is to buy one, get a smaller gear. If it doesn't work out then return it. Walmart accepts returns up to 2 months after purchase

.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

AC/BC said:


> FWIW, the comment I made was really directed by the fact that the OP has one leg...


Sorry. Forgot that.


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

Velobike said:


> I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.
> 
> The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.
> 
> A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.


Yes, I only have one real foot...that's why Bike Abuser gave me the advice.
I'd like to have a fatbike,but I have to realize there's gonna be some bike things I will no longer be able to do now that I lost my foot.
...And guys,take good care of your feet,OK? One big cut can later lead to amputation later on.No walking around bare-footed outdooors,OK?
OK.Mine was diabetes related,though.
Z


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

What's the fork situation it looks to be a 1" threaded quill style? Would love to swap it over to my Enabler fork.


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## kbollox (May 27, 2008)

Mr Pink57 said:


> What's the fork situation it looks to be a 1" threaded quill style? Would love to swap it over to my Enabler fork.


1 1/8" threaded, to swap a modern fork you'd only need to change the headset. 
I put a sweet NOS MTB Tioga Avender threaded on with a longer quill stem:


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

Have you guys seen these? Bolt-on cantilever brake bosses.

Adrenaline Bikes

You should buy some and let me know how you like them.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

I like it, I like it... Been hoping to find them a little cheaper. Still have not seen anyone post the fork diameter to confirm that clamp-on posts will fit.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

Here's a pic of that Beast that guy was riding at the Sea Otter with what look to be the same mounts.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Universal Cycle has them too. Universal Cycles -- Identiti Clamp-On Brake Mounts

Some should call and ask what the inner diameter is of the clamp.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Brake Mounting Components - all - www.paragonmachineworks.com


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

i just drooled in my keyboard.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

Larry Endomorph said:


> Can anybody recommend a 22 tooth rear cog?
> 
> Would any of these work?
> 
> ...


Update: I tried the Sturmey-Archer. It doesn't fit. It is too thick. Not enough room to get the snap ring back on. I don't have the tools to grind the cog down.

So, still looking.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

So you need to find one that specifies 3/32? Is that the solution?


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks AC/BC. Ordered mine @ U.C. $38+$3 Shipping. Will report results next week.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

AC/BC said:


> Some should call and ask what the inner diameter is of the clamp.


Identiti who manufactures the fork these are supposed to fit on list the diameter of the fork legs as 31.8mm, so 1-1/4" OD. 
Identiti Bikes -Forks - Rebate Park forks. - Product Information

For much less cost than these adapters, you could use a hacksaw to salvage the cantilever bosses off an old junk steel frame, hand-miter them to fit the fatgoose fork legs and chainstays and then have them permanently TIG welded or brazed on.


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

*22T rear cog*

For those of you who can't seem to find a 3/32 22T rear cog but can find a 1/8 22T cog, here's an easy fix. If you have a drill press and can get your hands on and end mill bit, it is pretty easy to mill off that 1/32 from the concave side flat surface so the ring will snap in. I completed the operation today. (mill the side that faces out so the offset stays correct.)

End mill: Redirect Notice first picture.

mill the surface away gradually and keep checking the fit. You can get it just right.

I had to add a link to the chain from another chain sitting around, because the 22T is big enough to make the stock chain too tight.

The difference in pedaling is immediately noticeable. It will be a bunch more fun to ride with the 22T cog and a lot easier on hills.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

Easy& cheap source for a wide variety of 3/32 width cogs is to disassemble an old shimano or SRAM casette that uses all individual cogs (no alloy carrier like on the nicer casettes). Casette cogs use 9 splines but you can file off 6 of them leaving three splines in the same pattern needed.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

GrayJay said:


> Easy& cheap source for a wide variety of 3/32 width cogs is to disassemble an old shimano or SRAM casette that uses all individual cogs (no alloy carrier like on the nicer casettes). Casette cogs use 9 splines but you can file off 6 of them leaving three splines in the same pattern needed.


The cogs for this hub are a different drive pattern:
















I note that Amazon has shimano Nexus 3/32" cogs, 22T for $7.23 shipped.
Amazon.com: Shimano SG-7C20 Nexus Sprocket (22T): Sports & Outdoors


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

wadester said:


> The cogs for this hub are a different drive pattern


Assuming the fatgoose uses same cogs for IG hubs, the 9 splines of a casette cog are easily rectified with a file or dremmel! see: Internal-Gear Hubs

Best part is that you could go so something like a 28 or 32 tooth rear cog for serious snow/beach/rock crawling. SS IG cogs dont typically come so large.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

the gear on top is dished, while the one on bottom is flat. does this matter? i know my way around a dremel.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I have the dished cog, and it helped my chainline, but that"ll depend on what cranks 
One uses. The gif. Below those pix I think shows a spacer which may / may not help or fit.
It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.
Thanks for the tip GrayJay,with a wheeled tensioner or a few quick-connect links, one could even carry a set of diff. Cogs and switch them on a ride.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

dudeist said:


> I have the dished cog, and it helped my chainline, but that"ll depend on what cranks
> One uses. The gif. Below those pix I think shows a spacer which may / may not help or fit.


Cool, thank you.



dudeist said:


> It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.


Mine scoffed at me for buying a spoke wrench. I can't imagine that they'd be interested in treating me like a human being if they knew what I was using the parts on.



dudeist said:


> Thanks for the tip GrayJay,with a wheeled tensioner or a few quick-connect links, one could even carry a set of diff. Cogs and switch them on a ride.


mmm, coaster brake means you gotta go the quick connect route. for about $70 you could switch to rim brakes in back, though.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

Cheapskate dinglespeed recipie for a 2X singlespeed drivetrain;

Get an old 5-speed freewheel on the back (25mm wide) and put a nicer crank on the front that has two different chainrings. Select two cogs on the freewheel like a 26 and a 20 and set up the freewheel with these two cogs and whatever spacers are needed to keep them in position at appropriate chainline so you have a 2-speed freewheel. Select the two front chainrings for the same difference in tooth count, so like 32t and 28t. This gives you two different chainlines with same chain length but two different gear ratios. Use a tensioner so that you can leave enough slack in the chain, so that the chain can be manually switched between the two chainlines without loosening the wheel or changing chain length. Takes all of about 10 seconds to hop off and perform a quick trailside tool-free gear change! 

You might even be able to get three different gears out of such a setup but finding/making a tensioner to accomidate three different chainlines is more problematic, chainline interference with fat tire to consider and the selection of three usefull equivalent length gearsets if a bit more involved, requires purchasing a few non-standard chainrings.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

dudeist said:


> It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.


Ha! I picked mine up at the fedex storefront - and took it to the LBS. Pulled it out of the box and put it together right there - they loaned me tools and recycled the box. They all got a kick out of it.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

dudeist recreated manual beastly's canti setup
http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/thread/2551/page/3/beasts-enlightenment#page=2


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

*The Latest Beast Casualty*

Busted the driver in the rear hub yesterday while torquing up a hill.

I thought I'd busted my chain, but alas, when I looked down, it was still in tact, but the cranks were spinning freely.

After taking it apart when I got home, I found the driver had busted where it was welded. I'm assuming the weld is to make it long enough.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> Busted the driver in the rear hub yesterday while really torquing up a hill.


Yikes! I suppose that this explains whey they didnt spec the fatgoose with a lower gear ratio more appropriate for fat bike conditions, higher torque delivered to the hub driver would make it even more prone to snap. 
Seems like a conversion to threaded or casette hub, and addition of disk or rim brakes replacing the coaster hub is likely a must-do for hard riding on these.


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> I sent an email to Pacific bike (with picture) to bring this to their attention, as it seems like it could be a pretty big safety issue for them


More like a pretty big safety issue for YOU. Or anyone else that wants to ride one of these in the woods. Or on roads that have hills.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

SmooveP said:


> More like a pretty big safety issue for YOU. Or anyone else that wants to ride one of these in the woods. Or on roads that have hills.


Meh. I'll take my chances.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

did you lose the ability to brake when this piece broke?


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Bill in Houston said:


> did you lose the ability to brake when this piece broke?


The coarsely threaded end runs a nut back'N'forth - pedal forward and it clamps the driver to the hub, both tension and torsion on the driver. pedal backwards and it jams a tapered edge into the brake shoes and spreads them against the hub shell. If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.

OTOH, based on the condition of these on delivery I'm betting quality on all parts is all over the place. Most normal width coaster brake hubs outlast mucho abuse. We'll see if this is an outlier or state-of-the-art. I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

wadester said:


> If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.


Well, you still have your Fred Flintstone brakes. It also occurred to me that if you're contemplating the add-on canti brakes, that the rims are not designed with a braking surface. Yeah, there's a flat vertical surface there, but probably not all that flat, and probably not reinforced. It will be interesting to see what kind of performance and durability people are getting out of that mod...


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

wadester said:


> If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.


I was afraid you were going to say that. I guess the "good" news is that it's most likely to break on an uphill.



wadester said:


> Most normal width coaster brake hubs outlast mucho abuse. I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".


They have one with a disc flange on it. It would be cool to go that direction with it.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

wadester said:


> I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".





Bill in Houston said:


> They have one with a disc flange on it. It would be cool to go that direction with it.


Yes, but unless you're taking a flame wrench to the frame you'll need something like this:

Brake Therapy Conversion Kit









Except that it uses a cantilever boss to take the load.



Bill in Houston said:


> I was afraid you were going to say that. I guess the "good" news is that it's most likely to break on an uphill.


Good point! When the brakes are on, the driver is in compression and the torgue is between the axle and the hub shell.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

wadester said:


> Yes, but unless you're taking a flame wrench to the frame you'll need something like this:
> 
> Except that it uses a cantilever boss to take the load.


yeah, yeah. i need a friend who can weld.

dudeist over here found a pretty sweet bolt-on canti post.
A Beast's Enlightenment | The UNDERGROUND!

adding disks is beyond my desired degree of difficulty, bc of the welding thing, but I can see adding front and rear cantis.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Hello, Jim Hannoonen, sorry to hear about Your drivetrain troubles, and thanks for sharing them with Us. I've been too busy
working on my Wal-Beast to go for a real ride on it, but I did manage to pedal it hard enuf to slip the rear axle forward in the dropout, throwing the chain. Now I wonder if I 
should get better washers, or leave it as a safety feature.
I'm also wondering, are You of above average weight and/ or leg strength, or does a 
190 lb., 50 year old geezer like me need to worry about tearing the guts outta my Beast?


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

dudeist said:


> Hello, Jim Hannoonen, sorry to hear about Your drivetrain troubles, and thanks for sharing them with Us. I've been too busy
> working on my Wal-Beast to go for a real ride on it, but I did manage to pedal it hard enuf to slip the rear axle forward in the dropout, throwing the chain. Now I wonder if I
> should get better washers, or leave it as a safety feature.
> I'm also wondering, are You of above average weight and/ or leg strength, or does a
> 190 lb., 50 year old geezer like me need to worry about tearing the guts outta my Beast?


 I haven't had any problems with the rear axle moving under load. and yes, I'm a little larger than your average rider at about 215. I'm a strong rider but I can't imagine my weight had a whole lot to do with it as a 165 lb rider can probably put out just as much power as I can.


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## woodi2259 (Jul 14, 2004)

A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.










www.a2zcomponents.com


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

I blew up my rear coaster hub too. I was mashing the hell out of the pedals trying to plow through a snow bank and heard a loud pop. The axle broke in half. Like Jim, I was able to use the other bike Walmart sent me for a replacement part. These coaster hubs are going to be a weak link for strong riders. I don't have any worries about them busting at high speed. Starting friction is always greater then moving friction.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

AC/BC said:


> You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.
> 
> Yep. Busted in the exact same spot as mine. Right at the weld.
> 
> I sent an email to [email protected] with a picture of the broken driver. I recommend doing the same.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> AC/BC said:
> 
> 
> > You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.
> ...


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

So I have an idea on how to reinforce this coaster hub driver.

I'll keep you updated. =)


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

oh, man, seriously? I mash my pedals pretty hard... i wonder if the choppersus one is any better.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

Frightening scenario- the hub driver gets fatigued and a crack starts during routiene use, then finally breaks during a braking panic stop, leaving you with no braking to fly off a mountain or out into traffic at an intersection. This is a dangerous flaw, I wouldnt be suprized if a safety recall results from this defect and sends all the Beasts to the crusher.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

GrayJay said:


> Frightening scenario- the hub driver gets fatigued and a crack starts during routiene use, then finally breaks during a braking panic stop, leaving you with no braking to fly off a mountain or out into traffic at an intersection. This is a dangerous flaw, I wouldnt be suprized if a safety recall results from this defect and sends all the Beasts to the crusher.


I agree with you 100%, which is why I emailed the mfg.


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## mitmoe (Jun 11, 2008)

i doubt they will go to the crusher....more likely a better replacement part will be offered.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

mitmoe said:


> i doubt they will go to the crusher....more likely a better replacement part will be offered.


If these had been $1000+ bikes sold through an actual bike shop with mechanics on staff I would agree that a fix would be appropriate. Given that they are $200 bike-like-devices from wal-mart, I cannot imagine that it would be worth the cost and logistical hassle on thier part to try to fix them.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

I wish I could go back and find the guys post from the coastal bike rental place who spoke about these hubs. I specifically remember him saying brake failures weren't likely going to be the issue but rather failures from people pedaling extremely hard. 

Mine happened to happen at almost a complete stop and with me twisting my body and pulling up on the handlebars to put more leverage into the pedal. I was "busting through" so to speak. FWIW, i train year round and race as much as I can, year round, but am no Manuel Beastley


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

I would imagine that a rider could generate almost as much backwards torque on the hub driver in a panic stop by jumping on the pedal at 9:00 position while standing. Maybe not the best braking technique but junk sold at wal-mart is not exactly targeted toward elite skilled riders.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

GrayJay said:


> I would imagine that a rider could generate almost as much backwards torque on the hub driver in a panic stop by jumping on the pedal at 9:00 position while standing.


You probably could generate enough torque backwards but it's an unlikely outcome. This bike is pretty easy to lock up the rear tire and skid. I've mashed forward many times harder then I have in reverse, and I have enjoyed skidding this thing a ton.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

The "Manual Beasty" bike appeared to have a coaster rear; wonder how it managed to survive the abuse he provided.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

woodi2259 said:


> A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Can you explain how this works?
and is there a price?


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

woodi2259 said:


> A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Bill in Houston said:


> Can you explain how this works?
> and is there a price?


Here's one installed - machined plate on the inside, sheet cover on the outside, torque applied to the seatstay:


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

ooo, that's kind of cool...


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

The revoultionary rear adaptor that converts Aluminium non disc frames into a disc frame
For this to work with your frame you need to have a Alluminum frame with a flat style dropout on both sides which is normally about 8mm thick, the A2Z adaptor then opens up and sandwiches over your frame and creates an International mount - No drilling or bolting into your frame is needed.
It does not affect your hub or Q/R in anyway
Not Compatible with Hope BigUn Hubs
It will only work with Vertical dropouts
Not compatible with Specialized Frames where the dropout is slightly angled backwards

Colour : Silver / black







Be the first to review this product! 

MRRP: $53.99

Our Price: $40.10 
* Tell a Friend
* Write review / comment

Product Code: DM-UNI 

In Stock 


Above from woollyhatshop in UK.

New hub with QR and Surly Tuggnut on drive side and I guess a few washers and maybe bolt right thru the dropout and it might just work. Wheeled chain tensioner needed too? So may as well throw in some gears and derailleur. But I think I'll wait til I break my axle. And the replacement. And wear thru the rim with the cantilevers. Please someone else do it. You know disc brakes are best. Especially in the winter.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

heh heh heh.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

dudeist said:


> ...You know disc brakes are best. Especially in the winter.


They should be looking at modern drum brakes. They're cheaper than the disk modifications, and are perfect for winter slop.

They also work well if you don't muck up the cable setup.


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

Just an FYI... My coaster just slows you down while sounding like a dying goose. I called and they were going to ship me a whole new rear wheel but they have none in stock so they are sending me a complete new bike and told me to keep whatever parts I want off the old one and destroy or trash the old frame.


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

Crazy, but expected from Walmart to give you a whole new bike. I bet if I said mine had a flat tire I'd get a whole new bike. I think the $19 extended warranty I paid for will pay off, maybe several times! And tons of spare parts to be had after. 



Thumpy69 said:


> Just an FYI... My coaster just slows you down while sounding like a dying goose. I called and they were going to ship me a whole new rear wheel but they have none in stock so they are sending me a complete new bike and told me to keep whatever parts I want off the old one and destroy or trash the old frame.


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

Bulldog said:


> Crazy, but expected from Walmart to give you a whole new bike. I bet if I said mine had a flat tire I'd get a whole new bike. I think the $19 extended warranty I paid for will pay off, maybe several times! And tons of spare parts to be had after.


 Wally world isn't even involved. I called the 800 number for Pacific Cycles thats on the bike. They are the ones shipping me a whole new bike and letting me keep the original one.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Hmmm...

Kind of odd that I see no mention of the Beast anywhere on Pacific Cycle or Mongoose sites...


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks velobike, I'd forgotten those Sturmey-Archer hubs. The 'goose needs 170 o.l.d.
and the only one I can find is 3-spd disc for $190. And hollow axle.

Hey Thumpy69, Thanks for info- Did You have $19 extra warranty too?


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

nope, all i spent was the 208 and change to order it online. called pacifics 800 number and told them what was happening, 2 weeks later i get a call the lady said hey we have no replacement parts in stock so were sending you a replacement bike, keep what you want on the old one and trash the frame. ok, np here. lol. gives me a trial and error set of wheels to work with. i got my 135mm 8 speed alfine in. as soon as my axle extenders show up im gonna give it a try. its roughly a little over a half inch on each side and it doesn't look like the chainline will be pulled to far off to cause problems. the extenders are so short normal riding should be ok as long as i dont do any significant drops on it. if that works next thingwill be a dual chain ring upfront with a chain tensioner.


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

why would their only requirement would be to trash the frame? odd but hey..


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## Siddhartha Valmont (Feb 19, 2013)

Instead of trashing the frame, you can pass it over to another tinkerer to get another Beast alive in the wild 

(I am in to get a Beast carcass from someone's garage -_^)


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

My wifes already claimed it for me to tinker on. She wants one now to.


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

Anyone actually measure their chain line on their Beast?

I did and here is what I found.

Rear cog is 65 mm from center line.

Stock steel chain ring is 72 mm from center line. 7mm off! Not good.

Aluminum triple crank that I thought I could use with a 32t chain ring in the center position with a 3mm spacer: 73mm from center line. Even worse! 

Would a SS crank be the same? I’m trying to figure how this can work, without what should be an unnecessary 1/8 inch chain, and closing my eyes and ears to the huge difference.

I see no convenient way to move the rear cog farther out.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

would a dished cog make you feel any better?
BTI | Sturmey Archer 8-speed dished cog, 3-spline, 1/8" - 25t chrome
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/custom-135mm-non-offset-fat-bike-657823.html#post7421681

I'm wondering if moving the chainring closer to centerline would cause issues with tire/chain clearance.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

The stock cog is dished, identical to the shimano nexus that I got and looks just like that BTI link - so no help there. The other link goes back to a 10mm offset cog - normal dish is on the order of 3-4mm, so that would actually work.

Note: 21t will fit with stock 36t using OEM chain. Barely. 

Funny, I didn't even bother to check the stock chainline - but estimated 6-7mm spacers were required to work with my "who knows" crank arms. Sounds like mid position on a triple crank is very close to the stock crank/ring combo. I'll check that when I mess with the beast next - now that I've got my packet of 7.1mm chainring spacers.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Bill in Houston said:


> ...Sturmey Archer 8-speed dished cog, 3-spline, 1/8" - 25t chrome...


The 8 speed is a different fitting. 2 speed, 3 speed, and 5 speed S-A cogs will fit though.

The chainline being that far off looks bad if you're used to a singlespeed or hubgear, but it's nothing unusual in a derailleur system.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

thanks, velobike!


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

An UNCAGED BEAST has been loosed on nearby trails!
For two nights in a row IT RAGED!
Nary A clatter was heard, only UGH! oR GRRUMPH!








The 32x22 is good for me. On easier, flatter trails the Beast ROCKED MY WORLD!
The Beast has no gears, but the Beastrider does. BWAHAHA!
Chainline frt. 75mm, rear 70mm cheated right 1washer and new big grippy washers on the rear hub- the stock ones slid on the paint. Stock chain, same length! Is it 1/8"? On-one Fleagle bar is wide for pullin and has little drops for tuckin down on the pavement. These Beasts ROLL! The coaster brake works fine, but You have to use both legs instedda one finger. Just hafta half-pedal every turn. Took me a half-hour to get used to it on a twisty trail. You can find the point of engagement and feather the coaster brake and not skid, even on steep downhills. Until You put the stock rear tire back on and HIT THE STREET! SCRRREEEEEEEEEEE!!!


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

The stock chain is 1/8". I bought a 3/32" chain (lighter) designed specifically for SS that offers decreased side flex that I figured would work great. Apparently, it was not designed for a SS with such a ridiculous chain line as the Beast. It was too noisy, and therefore probably more likely to break. The original 1/8" chain was (slightly) quieter, and of course a normal 3/32" chain for geared bikes would have worked fine.

But...

My single speed chain ring (no shifting ramps or goofy teeth) showed up today, plus I figured out a way to add another 3mm spacer to the chain ring. So now my CL is only off by 4.5 mm. Tightest Beast chain line around I reckon, and it runs nice enough for my pickiness with the SS chain. 

I've changed many components on the bike, and think it turned out quite nice. Still may add graphics on the top tube. I will post pics when I get a chance.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

AlmostQuick said:


> The stock chain is 1/8". I bought a 3/32" chain (lighter) designed specifically for SS that offers decreased side flex that I figured would work great. Apparently, it was not designed for a SS with such a ridiculous chain line as the Beast. It was too noisy, and therefore probably more likely to break. The original 1/8" chain was (slightly) quieter, and of course a normal 3/32" chain for geared bikes would have worked fine...


In the pre derailleur days we used to check chains by seeing how much side flex they had. If there was much we used to chuck them because the theory was that they were obviously worn out. That theory got destroyed by derailleur chains which you can almost tie in knots.

I'd be using a derailleur chain rather than a singlespeed one where there was a large disparity in the chainline, so long as the cogs had proper single speed tooth profiles (ie not cut away).


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

Velobike said:


> I'd be using a derailleur chain rather than a singlespeed one where there was a large disparity in the chainline, so long as the cogs had proper single speed tooth profiles (ie not cut away).


This makes sense, and I agree. Problem was, I bought the chain before I knew about the CL issue. What manufacture would design a SS bike with such a horrible off set. Oops, never mind. Ya gets what you pay for.

Now that I got the difference down to 4.5 mm, the chain seems workable.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

I picked up some 7.1mm chainring spacers - except they were for INNER chainrings, and sized to fit the bolt rather than the "nut". Drilled 'em out with a 25/64" bit, and voila!

I now have 34x21 mounted up, with a visually perfect chainline - and swapped the cast iron crank arms for aluminum, so the bike is at least 2 lbs lighter now.


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

Since this is back near the top.....I finished drilling out my rear wheel, pulled the stock tubes and put in some 2.4-2.8 presta tubes, saved a bit of weight (tried using 2.25-2.35 and it blew out at about 2 miles, I walked a couple blocks to a local shop)...pulled the stock crankset and replaced it with the old square taper XT from my 1x1 with a 32t chainring, ran it with the stock 18, its was OK, tried a BMX 22t and it feels a little low and the chainline is really off....found a offset 20t cog and will swap that soon, I think its going to a good one.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Upgrades and Accessories Click for another disc adapter. Just in case the front canti's wear thru the rim, or get too icy in winter, or the rear coaster keeps taking 1/2 hour to get used to on each ride. I'm keeping this Beast, even if it becomes spare for "real" future fatty.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

the busetti mounts and a set of bb7s would be a nice upgrade. rats, i keep forgetting that i would need new hubs too. ppppbbbt.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Bill in Houston said:


> the busetti mounts and a set of bb7s would be a nice upgrade. rats, i keep forgetting that i would need new hubs too. ppppbbbt.


Yeah, in keeping with the "cheap cruiser" concept, I think the clamp-on front cantilever mounts and some wide profile cantilevers will be the way to go. I wound up forgetting how to coaster-brake again last night and had to flintstone myself to a quick stop to keep from running into my grill. I note that I have run MtFixies with both F&R and just Frt brakes, so I know that just a front will be very helpful.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

And now I'm going to laugh at myself. "Cheap cruiser" concept? HA!

Parts for a front brake;

Clamp on canti adapters - $43
Brake lever - each $12, or pair $17
Tektro CR720 wide profile brakes - $20
1 1/8" clamp on cable stop - pair $12

Or, +50% to cost of bike. The clamp on adapters are the big hit. I think I have "who knows" levers, and low profile but not wide profile brakes, but not cable stops.

My GF is lusting after the Goose - may have to get another.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

wadester said:


> ...My GF is lusting after the Goose - may have to get another.


Can I have the old GF then. Mine's just about worn out.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Velobike said:


> Can I have the old GF then. Mine's just about worn out.


Silly boy, good GF's are far harder to find than bikes. Since she doesn't like green, I guess #2 will be red.


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

Multi geared lessons learned. Ok so relacing straight with an alfine 8 speed pulls the chainline way to far over into the tire. Here's what did work. If you lace dished opposite normal. Thats to say longer spokes on the drive side and shorter on the opposite so your offset opposite what a normal cassette or freewheel would be your drivetrain lines up perfect. You end up with a slightly longer axle extension on the non drive side but it held my 255 pound behind without giving at all and I drove off a few 8-10 inch drops just to see. The disc brake setup is useless. The vendor I got the alfine from was very nice and agreed to take it back and let me swap towards a nexus and some other stuff. Mainly so I can get the coaster brake back but I'll still have 8 speeds. Also I did some measuring and as long as the current rear sprocket doesn't move much and you run the alfine chain tensioner you should be able to go multi geared in front. You have to drill and tap the frame for the tensioner to thread llike a normal rear derailluer which I'll do once I get the back straight. I'm also gonna drill and tap me some holes for accesories. Water cages and such. I'll get some picks up for you guys soon.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

GrayJay said:


> Easy& cheap source for a wide variety of 3/32 width cogs is to disassemble an old shimano or SRAM casette that uses all individual cogs (no alloy carrier like on the nicer casettes). Casette cogs use 9 splines but you can file off 6 of them leaving three splines in the same pattern needed.


This is a great tip.

I did this today on mine. Worked like a charm. I now have a 23.

I used a dremel with the plain old sanding drum to take out the excess teeth and used a file to narrow the remaining three.

I had to go to the LBS to be shown how to get the cog off though. The thing that looks like an O ring is actually a split ring that just separates to come off. So easy once one knows how. I should have looked it up online but I got a chain at the LBS while I was there because one needs a longer one with the 23 cog.


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## mitmoe (Jun 11, 2008)

dudeist said:


> Upgrades and Accessories Click for another disc adapter. Just in case the front canti's wear thru the rim, or get too icy in winter, or the rear coaster keeps taking 1/2 hour to get used to on each ride. I'm keeping this Beast, even if it becomes spare for "real" future fatty.


I don't think the rear adapter will work with the Beast's huge dropouts. They may be large enough to just drill and mount. I will jump into that in a few days when my bb7 arrives for the back. I'm digging the canti's on the front for now. Wonder how long it would take for a brake to burn through the rim as you were saying. I would think quite a while.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I have v-brakes on my other bike and they last if You stay out of mud and slush and road salt and sand, but they're cheaper to replace, too. These goose rims seem just as thick at the edge as any other rims I've had.


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

*Beast modifications: phase one*

I don't think I have had this much fun biking for $199.
The beast rides fine out of th box but I am beginning to modify mine.
Some parts that make a big difference:
1. Soma laid back seatpost
(This is an inexpensive way to fix the beast geometry and lose some weight) 
2. Front canti brake
I took my beast around town and the rear coaster is not enough on hills.
Go ahead and shell out the $$$ for a front canti and the Identiti brake bosses and a long drop hanger.
Other modifications for phase one:
I also added a vintage bmx mongoose seat, titanium stem, titanium 118 titec bar and ti bar ends.
For brakes I bought the extra wide problem solver hangers but I don't think they are essential. I was fortunate enough to have a box full of bike parts including Avid Tri-align cantilevers which when combined with the sliding brake bosses become Pent-aligns. I am using an old-scool Diacomp MKII lever.
I decided to go with the ZOOM 1 1/8 threaded to threadless stem adapter. It was a couple of dollars more than other brands, but the stack height is less and... it says ZOOM on it.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

I thought using the belt sander would work well to bald out the tire. Well it works, but very slowly and with a lot of time and effort. The oscillating tool is probably easier.


Edit: A jointer/planer electric planer made quick work of it. Not bald but fairly so. I think that's how I want it.


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## alphazz (Oct 12, 2012)

Out of curiosity, what is the total investment into these bikes and how much more money is on the horizon?


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

alphazz said:


> Out of curiosity, what is the total investment into these bikes and how much more money is on the horizon?


Let's see -

A better gear ratio;
a new rear cog - $5
a new chainring - $30, 
a crankset - free
chainring bolts - $10
spacers to correct chainline - $15
chain? - 21t will fit with stock chain and chainring, or with 34/21 I now have so: free

$60

Handlebars
New stem - $17
Handlebar - free
grips - $20

$37

So $216+$97=$313 as it sits now

Planning on a front brake;

Clamp on canti adapters - $43
Brake lever - pair $17
Tektro CR720 wide profile brakes - $20
1 1/8" clamp on cable stop - pair $12

+$92, total $405
Still not bad, and since I get a lot of joy out of modding/fitting/experimenting - it's cheap entertainment.

I note that if I was presented with a brand new fatbike, I know that I would be changing stem/bars/gears anyways because I always have needed to. Matter of fact, the 'Goose is the first "complete" bike I've bought in a long time. My first 3 bikes were completes, and I always wound up doing the parts changes to get it to fit and work as I wanted. Now I just get a frame and build it up so I don't have a bunch of take-offs. I get those from friends who buy completes


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## kbollox (May 27, 2008)

Yup, right at $400 for my build:


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I spent about the same amount in the same way as Wadester, then tried the 27tpi Nate- heavy but AWESOME grip, 27tpi Larry- not sure about him, And a pair of On-One Floaters 120tpi 1400g that I think I'll really like. $65 ea and free shipping.


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

Wal-Mart:
Mongoose Beast: $199 

PARTS BOX:
Titec Bar 
Ti Bar-ends 
Ti stem
Long drop cable hanger
Cyclone singlespeed crank *38 tooth ring
Avid Tri-align canti brake 
1980’s Mongoose Seat
Chain
Grips
Suntour XCPro Greaseguard pedals

LBS:
Dia Comp Levers: $20 *LBS

Universal Cycles:
Cane Creek 28.6 – 27.2 Seatpost Shim: $9.00 
Soma Layback Seatpost: $25.00 
Vuelta 104mm x 32 Flat Ring: $17.00
Zoom Q Stem Adapter $19.00
Identiti Clamp-on Brake Mounts: $38.00
Problem Solvers 50mm wide cable hanger: $13.00 (not essential)


E-bay:
Ritchey Logic Threaded 1 1/8 Headset: $12.99
*Another worthwhile upgrade as the stock headset is absolute garbage

Amazon:
YST Sealed BSA Cupset: $6.18
Sturmey Archer 19t Cog: $3.50
Q-Tubes SL 2.4-2.7: $7.50 x2 = $15.00

So far the total = $327.67

Other than being extremely heavy I like the stock tires. I do plan to buy a set of Vee Rubber tires when the style I want is released in a couple of weeks.

Like many other people here after all is said and done for the price of a fat-bike frame I have actual fat-wheels on the ground. I know there are a lot of haters and naysayers out there but for anyone with a part-box or a spare unused bike, this is a great and inexpensive way to try something new and fun. As a bonus for those with kids, the seat slides down low enough to let children around 10 or 11 years old or older ride as well.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

Just got back from my first "real" ride. It was down on the beach. Very cool. This is going to be a fun way to get a workout. It was amazing to me how well the bike floated on the sand and how quickly I was three miles down the beach. I experimented with tire pressure and dropped them to around 3 lbs. Too low. It felt slow and the imprint in the sand looked deeper than the one with higher pressure.

The 23 cog on the back felt almost right. But I might be able to use an even higher number tooth one. I like to spin rather than stomp. The pedals with toe clips are OK but I'm used to clipless and I may go that way. The semi-balded front tire was fine.

And I have a lighting system....Riding the beach at night. 

Only problem is the 40 foot high 45 degree sandy bluff I have to get the bike up to get home. It was not easy, at all.


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

Vee Rubber 26x4 Mission tires
Surly fat bike light tube
Gusset Stash 680 handlebars 31.8
Shadow Conspiracy Ol' dirty flange grips - clear
FFS 120mm stem (to compensate for the swept bars)
Zoom 1 1/8" threaded to 1 1/8" threadless adapter
Cane Creek 27.2 - 28.6 seatpost shim
Kalloy SP-342 Uno seatpost 27.2
WTB Rocket V saddle
Vuelta cranks 175mm
Vuelta flat chainring 32t
20t rear cog
ACS Crossfire chain 3/32"
Gusset Slim Jim HL platform pedals - clear/red
Custom "Fat Goose" decals


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

I just got this bike. How do I fix the coaster brakes from squealing so loud?


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

dinosaur13 said:


> I just got this bike. How do I fix the coaster brakes from squealing so loud?


Disassemble the hub and add grease.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

AlmostQuick said:


> Disassemble the hub and add grease.


ummm, I have never done that before. Is it hard, is there an online video? What kind of grease should I use, anything specific?


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

AlmostQuick said:


> Disassemble the hub and add grease.


Should I have Walmart do it or take it to a bike shop?


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Call Walmart, they'll probably send you another bike for parts. LOL


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

rjedoaks said:


> Call Walmart, they'll probably send you another bike for parts. LOL


So its not worth trying to have a bike shop fix it? I don't know too much about greasing hubs.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

if you are reasonably mechanical, you can do it. if not, take it to the lbs.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Sure you could have it greased. you might want to give it a go yourself.
I was kinda kidding, although several members were shipped new bikes because their are no spare parts


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

mitmoe said:


> I don't think the rear adapter will work with the Beast's huge dropouts. They may be large enough to just drill and mount.


yup, this.



alphazz said:


> Out of curiosity, what is the total investment into these bikes and how much more money is on the horizon?


and of course, the follow-up comment from the fatwally deniers is, "for that much money you could have bought a used Pugsley".

but, that pugsley would need a new bb, brakes, and drivetrain bits, to the tune of another, what, $300? $500? so let's not act like it's really an option.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

dinosaur13 said:


> Should I have Walmart do it or take it to a bike shop?


Between those two choices definitely the LBS. They can also adjust the bearings for you.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

rjedoaks said:


> Sure you could have it greased. you might want to give it a go yourself.
> I was kinda kidding, although several members were shipped new bikes because their are no spare parts


Since its under warranty why not have Walmart grease it for free?


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

beachride said:


> Between those two choices definitely the LBS. They can also adjust the bearings for you.


Normally what would that all cost?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

dinosaur13 said:


> Since its under warranty why not have Walmart grease it for free?


that is not something that they can do. they can give you your money back, or give you a new one, but they can't fix the on you have.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

dinosaur13 said:


> ummm, I have never done that before. Is it hard, is there an online video? What kind of grease should I use, anything specific?


I did this back when I was a kid. Not too hard, can be done with a crescent wrench. But you do need a little basic mechanical skill.

Google for "overhaul coaster brake hub", and you can see many options to choose from - here's one:

Overhauling a Coaster Brake Bike

Here's what you're dealing with:


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

Bill in Houston said:


> that is not something that they can do. they can give you your money back, or give you a new one, but they can't fix the on you have.


The issue in getting a new one is that I may have the same problem. Is it worth fixing or will a bike shop charge too much in a case like this that doesn't make it worth taking there?


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

anymore broken axles?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

sorry, dinosaur, i don't know how much they would charge.

wadester, my experience is like yours. me and my buddy marc nasser took a coaster brake apart and got it back together back in 7th grade, so its can't have been too hard.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Bicycle Coaster Brakes - Another useful link. Mine came with black grease inside and clear on the bearings. I'm carrying the cone wrenches and a bigger 15mm on every ride. And cab fare.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

I can try and fix it. I just don't want to wreck it and void the warranty.


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

I completely took apart my coaster brake assembly blindly, having no knowledge of how they work or any idea if i'd know how to put it back together. 

I got everything apart, rebuilt, greased and put back together in under an hour. It was so simple I couldn't believe it. If you doubt you ability to remember where the few "loose" parts go, snap a few pics with your camera phone as you disassemble to refer back to if needed. If you're just greasing the bearings, you could probably have that done in 20mins or less


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Bold move. They re not that hard but the phone pics help. I still got o get my BB apart for a lube.

I am doing a huge urban assault ride in Philly tomorrow. Hours long, plenty of miles, up and down train stairs, in the train, beer and cigars. Let's see how this beast fairs.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

Mongoose is sending me a new wheel. Its the hub shell not the lack of grease.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

While I'm riding the Beast I noticed that the tires (prickly things) are hitting the chain guard. Is this pretty normal? Do I just have to allow this go away over time while these prickly rubber things rub off?


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

dinosaur13 said:


> While I'm riding the Beast I noticed that the tires (prickly things) are hitting the chain guard. Is this pretty normal? Do I just have to allow this go away over time while these prickly rubber things rub off?


Yes, this is normal on this bike. You can cut them off if the sound bothers you.


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## dinosaur13 (May 5, 2013)

AlmostQuick said:


> Yes, this is normal on this bike. You can cut them off if the sound bothers you.


I was hoping it wasn't something else more serious. Thx


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## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

*Beast, aka.... Wal-Y*

Nothing dramatic, basically a stock ride with new grips, pedals, saddle, an Endomorph on the front end. But closing in on 75 miles of winter trail/street riding and still holding in there! Looking forward to enjoying some snow free trails!


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

dinosaur13 said:


> While I'm riding the Beast I noticed that the tires (prickly things) are hitting the chain guard. Is this pretty normal? Do I just have to allow this go away over time while these prickly rubber things rub off?


One of the most important things one do for these bikes is to remove those. I calculate the weight savings alone to be at least 5 grams of rotating weight. Plus they attract and hold sand and dirt adding another 10 grams. Also they cause greater wind resistance. By removing them I calculate I can now ride 0.0000004% faster with the same effort.

Plus they were ugly.


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## Scoobytao (Mar 19, 2011)

beachride said:


> One of the most important things one do for these bikes is to remove those. I calculate the weight savings alone to be at least 5 grams of rotating weight. Plus they attract and hold sand and dirt adding another 10 grams. Also they cause greater wind resistance. By removing them I calculate I can now ride 0.0000004% faster with the same effort.
> 
> Plus they were ugly.


I disagree with your, clearly not very well thought out, analysis, particularly as it applies to wind resistance. I am certain the little rubber hairs are designed to function similar to vortex generators on an airplane wing or the divots on a golf ball and provide at least a 0.00003% aerodynamic advantage to the Beast, far outweighing any weight loss benefit.

So, if you have already removed them, I'd suggest using some shoe goo or rubber cement to reapply all of them for max benefit.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Scoobytao said:


> ... and provide at least a 0.00003% aerodynamic advantage to the Beast, far outweighing any weight loss benefit....


+1

This amply demonstrated by the pics of Manuel Beastly flying his Walgoose at Sea Otter.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

Scoobytao said:


> I disagree with your, clearly not very well thought out, analysis, particularly as it applies to wind resistance. I am certain the little rubber hairs are designed to function similar to vortex generators on an airplane wing or the divots on a golf ball and provide at least a 0.00003% aerodynamic advantage to the Beast, far outweighing any weight loss benefit.
> 
> So, if you have already removed them, I'd suggest using some shoe goo or rubber cement to reapply all of them for max benefit.


Darn! Hadn't thought of that! I'll use some AMAZING GOOP to make hundreds of hairlike nibs oriented in the direction of rotation. They will act like air ratchets, speeding me along with almost no effort at all. Cool.

Seriously though, I now have a 27 tooth cog on and it's not too low a gear ratio for the beach. It feels about right. It is too low for general road though but all my road riding on my ride is uphill so it works well. I cranked up a pretty steep part of my street and nothing broke! Yahoo!


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

dinosaur13 said:


> While I'm riding the Beast I noticed that the tires (prickly things) are hitting the chain guard. Is this pretty normal? Do I just have to allow this go away over time while these prickly rubber things rub off?


This is not normal at all. It is normal to REMOVE the chain guard.
-lighter weight
-maintains the aerodynamic advantage of the hairs


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## mitmoe (Jun 11, 2008)

Got the rear disc brake installed on my Beast. Here's the post

Disc brake Beast!! | The UNDERGROUND!


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

that's beautiful, man. way to make it happen.


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## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

AKPowderhound said:


> Nothing dramatic, basically a stock ride with new grips, pedals, saddle, an Endomorph on the front end. But closing in on 75 miles of winter trail/street riding and still holding in there! Looking forward to enjoying some snow free trails!
> 
> View attachment 798070


Okay took the time to try to carve some weight off. Headset converter, alloy bars, crank arms, 32 tooth front, retained stock rear. Surly 120 tpi front tire, stock rear tire. (Origin8 Devist-8er 120tpi on order) Stock tubes. Still at 41lbs, so far all from the parts bin, only cost at this point the Devist-8er and some grips for $70.00...

Thing is still insanely fun to ride, had gotten so used to the 36 tooth, swapping to the 32 tooth should make it even more fun on the trails!


----------



## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

nice! those bars look cool, and with the stem they give you a bit more room, huh?


----------



## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

They were a random combination, but ended up being a nice fit. I swapped to a shorter stem but ended up going back to this one.


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

Phase 2 upgrade complete:

Rear canti brake system successfully installed
Dia-Comp Lever
Avid tri-align long arm brakes
(Mounting sliders installed upside down and backwards)
Problem Solver Wide Hanger
Problem Solver 38.1mm Clamp Cable Stops
Tektro short drop seatpost bolt canti-hanger
Identiti fork bosses 
+ Custom cut 1 1/4 Outer Diameter 7/8 Inner Diameter garbage disposal hose adapter from Home Depot less than 50 cents


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

^ Wow cool work. But arghhh don't get me thinking. Took the beast from the beach onto the hilly, tight, singletrack yesterday and it felt a bit out of it's element. Like I pushed it uphills, and just hoped the coaster brake would be enough on the downhills. Being new to the trail upped the pucker factor. But the sandy downhills and the sweeping turns were a blast. And the beast can really just roll over stuff .


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

AKPowderhound said:


> They were a random combination, but ended up being a nice fit. I swapped to a shorter stem but ended up going back to this one.


i'm trying to decide between a long stem and a setback seatpost. not sure which will ride better.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

On today's ride my chain came off the cog just as I was starting down a hill. I had to bail out by riding up onto someone's front lawn to stop. 

The chain is coming off too easily with the 27 tooth cassette cog back there. I don't know if it's because it's slightly offline, the shallow tooth hyperglide sprocket or because of too much play in the chain, or all three But being without brakes is not good.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

i hear ya. i had to push my foot against the rear tire to stop last time i rode. mine was falling off the front chainring, and I think we figured out the cause - flex in the chainstay part of the frame. is that where yours is falling off? or is yours falling off in the back?


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

Bill,
If it is either or... Go with the set-back seatpost.
The Soma one works great for me, my stem is 120mm
The layback seatpost swap makes the overall geometry nicer while increasing reach.
The stem increases reach without addressing the geometry issue.
Having one rim brake makes a huge performance and safety difference.
Two is better if you pick up another set of bosses and some thick garbage disposal hose.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

Bill in Houston said:


> i hear ya. i had to push my foot against the rear tire to stop last time i rode. mine was falling off the front chainring, and I think we figured out the cause - flex in the chainstay part of the frame. is that where yours is falling off? or is yours falling off in the back?


Mine is falling off the cog, in back. Now that I think about it, it's probably because of the cog design. It's meant for a derailler that keeps the chain aligned. Without the derailler it's probably too easy for it to get shaken off . I think the teeth are kinda shallow and there are a few that are cut back to help shifting.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

beachride said:


> On today's ride my chain came off the cog just as I was starting down a hill. I had to bail out by riding up onto someone's front lawn to stop.
> 
> The chain is coming off too easily with the 27 tooth cassette cog back there. I don't know if it's because it's slightly offline, the shallow tooth hyperglide sprocket or because of too much play in the chain, or all three But being without brakes is not good.


The tooth profile of cogs/rings designed for shifting is for easily moving off - and especially in the "shift zones". When I started mt fixie, it kept coming off the front (part of a triple set) ring - but never the made-for-it rear cog. Moved to a "single speed" ring and had no more problems.

I note that my Beast is running a Surly singlespeed ring and a shimano nexus rear cog. Haven't even offered to come off, and the chain is not that tight. Of course, I also went to 7mm's of effort to make sure they ring&cog were aligned as well. YMMV.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

RetroCyclo said:


> View attachment 800050
> 
> Phase 2 upgrade complete:
> 
> ...


 Thank You, Retrocyclo, and congratulations for a pioneering achievement in Fatgoose re-engineering. The long arms on that brake, the wide yoke, and the short hanger all look ideal for this bike, and the hose adapter is ingenious. Please show and tell a little more. Is there a chance that a less expensive canti would work, or did You look at others and find this Avid brake uniquely qualified to do the job w/o sticking out too much? Bonus: We get to keep the coaster brake !


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

RetroCyclo said:


> Bill,
> If it is either or... Go with the set-back seatpost.
> Having one rim brake makes a huge performance and safety difference.


Thanks for the advice, Retro.



beachride said:


> It's meant for a derailler that keeps the chain aligned. Without the derailler it's probably too easy for it to get shaken off . I think the teeth are kinda shallow and there are a few that are cut back to help shifting.


Hmm, good point.



wadester said:


> The tooth profile of cogs/rings designed for shifting is for easily moving off - and especially in the "shift zones". When I started mt fixie, it kept coming off the front (part of a triple set) ring - but never the made-for-it rear cog. Moved to a "single speed" ring and had no more problems.


Thanks, wadester.


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

*What the Beast is really good for*

I own a Pugs Necro. I use it for snow, trail, gravel, and river riding. I bought a Beast just cuz. The one modification I made was to replace the T18 witha T23. This bike will never do what the Necro does. What it is good for is to hop on and ride about town. The geometry of this bike is very upright and it rides very easy and stable. It is quite relaxing to ride. I think it is the easiest "look Mom, no hands" riding bike I've had. The only other mod I plan this Summer is a cargo rack for mail, groceries, etc. I can't see using such a heavy sucker for snow riding or river riding when I have the Pugs.

I guess I kind of see the Beast as a cruiser.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

to me, it's a smooth-riding, go anywhere cruiser. i noticed last night how well it soaks up all the noise / vibration / harshness that my other bike experiences on gravel or uneven pavement. don't ride one if you don't want attention, though, huh?


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

I'd like to do something similar to Thumpy69's mod. Were you able to use the stock spokes?



Thumpy69 said:


> Multi geared lessons learned. Ok so relacing straight with an alfine 8 speed pulls the chainline way to far over into the tire. Here's what did work. If you lace dished opposite normal. Thats to say longer spokes on the drive side and shorter on the opposite so your offset opposite what a normal cassette or freewheel would be your drivetrain lines up perfect. You end up with a slightly longer axle extension on the non drive side but it held my 255 pound behind without giving at all and I drove off a few 8-10 inch drops just to see. The disc brake setup is useless. The vendor I got the alfine from was very nice and agreed to take it back and let me swap towards a nexus and some other stuff. Mainly so I can get the coaster brake back but I'll still have 8 speeds. Also I did some measuring and as long as the current rear sprocket doesn't move much and you run the alfine chain tensioner you should be able to go multi geared in front. You have to drill and tap the frame for the tensioner to thread llike a normal rear derailluer which I'll do once I get the back straight. I'm also gonna drill and tap me some holes for accesories. Water cages and such. I'll get some picks up for you guys soon.


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

dudeist said:


> Thank You, Retrocyclo, and congratulations for a pioneering achievement in Fatgoose re-engineering. The long arms on that brake, the wide yoke, and the short hanger all look ideal for this bike, and the hose adapter is ingenious. Please show and tell a little more. Is there a chance that a less expensive canti would work, or did You look at others and find this Avid brake uniquely qualified to do the job w/o sticking out too much? Bonus: We get to keep the coaster brake !


Thanks for the encouragement....
The front Avid brake wasn't an issue and I could use the Avid Short arms with no modification. I could probably also use a regular cable hanger vice the wide one.
*However, the wide hanger one IS needed for the rear. Even with the wide hanger the straddle cable is precariously close to the tire.
Also, I actually don't recommend using the long arm Avids, the moon-shaped adaptors had to be mounted backwards and upside-down to make them work. It actually wasn't something I would try except I have this box full o retro parts so I wanted to see if I could make something I already owned work before buying something. The wide-arm cheap-o Tektro brakes may actually do the trick better, but I haven't tried them. 
CAUTION: another problem with the rear is that the rim is so wide and the spacing so narrow that one would have to disassemble the bolted on brake boss system to remove the rear wheel. Since this is a singlespeed bike with non-QR hubs I don't forsee removing the wheel often so that isn't a big issue. 
Also, you can try cheaper zip-tie based cable stops but I prefer the 38.1 Problem Solver bolt on ones. They tie in nicely with the Idintiti bolt on bosses. I'll post pictures of those later as well.
Also, yes the short drop hanger works but it is still just a bit cramped.
I'd actually recommend trying a seatpost clamp on style cable hanger vice a seatpost bolt cable hanger. Also, the problem solver cable hanger has an adjustable mechanism is cheaper and it looks shorter as well. (I may actually switch to one myself)

In summary, if I had to build a rear brake system from scratch here is what I'd recommend:
1. Seatpost Clamp-on cable hanger (or problem solver short drop bolt)
2. Problem Solver WIDE hangers *essential on rear
3. Identiti brake mounts
4. Custom cut Garbage disposal hose (2x 1 inch long by 1 1/4 OD 7/8 ID)
5. Problem Solver 38.1mm Cable Stop clams x2
6. Cant-brake lever
7. Brake Cable w'housing
8. Tektro cyclocross style wide CR720 (or similar) brake arm


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

This is a great thread. I have been wanting to build a fat bike for some time now, and this thread has inspired me to give it a go. I have been reading up on this bike trying to gather specs, and this is what I have accumulated so far, as well as some numbers I would like to find...

Headtube angle - ~74 degrees
Fork steerer tube - 1 1/8" threaded
Seattube ID - 28.6mm
BB width - 110mm
Hub spacing - 135mm front/170mm rear
Gearing - 36t front/18t rear
Rim width - ?
Spoke count - ?
ETT - ?
Seattube length - ?

Can anybody fill in the blanks for me, and/or add to this list?

My Build Plans:
Vee Rubber Tires
Drilled rims
Lighter tubes, perhaps with pool noodles
XT m750 crank arms w/ spiderless 32t ring
YST sealed BSA cupset
19t rear SA coaster brake cog
Ritchey Headset
Steerer tube adapter
Stem/bars/seatpost from the parts bin

Eventually, I will build a new wheelset and weld on disc brake mounts, but I am going to have some fun with the coaster brake first.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

Bill in Houston said:


> to me, it's a smooth-riding, go anywhere cruiser. i noticed last night how well it soaks up all the noise / vibration / harshness that my other bike experiences on gravel or uneven pavement. don't ride one if you don't want attention, though, huh?


Yeah really, the attention it gets. I have to start going to places with more women though, I'm getting tired of talking to ugly old guys like me and kids. Come to think of it, I have been to places with women and they don't talk to me. I guess they don't appreciate beasts.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Rims 100mm, spokes 36 each, ett 23"- [that explains why I like my 150 mm stem so much], seat tube 16 1/4" from cl of bb to top end. I 'm not sure how to measure crank offset, but it needs some. Others have had them hit the seatstay. Maybe the new bb allows more adjustment. I like the 22t rear cog for climbing, and when I can't go any faster on the flats I just coast and coast for longer than I ever thought possible.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

yeah, the guys and kids can't hold it in. women are somehow more reserved, although women over 45 riding with men tend to be reasonably friendly.

thanks for the details, retro.


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## MartianSky (May 23, 2013)

Hello!
I'm new to the forum and I just picked up a blue Beast!
I hope you don't mind me jumping into your thread?
There are many great mods and ideas here and thats how I found this forum.

My mods planned for my Beast....
first off like most of you have mentioned all the bearings are too tight so 
disassembling and greasing everything is top of the list
Then,
add Front and rear canti brakes(already picking up parts for this)
change out pedals (the ones that came with it hardly turn)
change seat
replace grips
swap out rear cog to a 22T


I really dont like coaster brakes and was wondering if anyone has tried the 
washer and spring unbrake to freewheel the rear hub yet?
Ive done this to a few coaster brake wheels before but havent tried it on the beast. I know relacing the wheel with a freewheel hub(if possible) would be the best but this would be a quick fix.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Yes, the stock pedals barely turn - their bearings are as tight as everything else! Pry off the end cap and adjust.

I note most folks are using a threadless adapter, but I found a very nice stem for about the same price. YMMV









And if you're looking for a low-ball hub ($30), try here:

Wide Hub - 1 Speed FW Chrome - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.







Wide Hub - Freewheel/Disc BLK - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.


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## beachride (May 2, 2013)

So, I removed the cranks and the weight of them almost gave me a hernia. They must be that new lead/steel alloy. I had an old triple lying around so I removed the outer two rings. So now I have a 28 by 19. For riding on the beach I might go lower. Clipless pedals are OK for the beach bike that it is. The 17 Inch rise handlebars are new and add to the ridiculousness of the whole thing and making it look like the goose that it is. A Cane Creek suspension seatpost adds to the WTF factor and coupled with big soft tires gives a soft if somewhat bouncy ride.

It doesn't like it's picture being taken and so was warping time and space in defense as I snapped the photo. Thus the strange colors. I'm not kidding.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

^^^ Warping time is the replacement for warp speed.

Nice ... It would actually look good painted that way.


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## RetroCyclo (Apr 19, 2013)

beachride said:


> View attachment 801750
> 
> 
> So, I removed the cranks and the weight of them almost gave me a hernia. They must be that new lead/steel alloy.


Yes: Those cranks are ridiculous.... people make fun of the wheels/tires being heavy as boat anchors etc.... I think these cranks really are so heavy they could serve as a small craft canoe/kayak anchor. Tie a rope onto the pedal hole drop anchor and let the chainring ramps grip something. Argh!


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AlmostQuick said:


> View attachment 797443
> 
> 
> Custom "Fat Goose" decals


Where did you get these ?


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

beachride said:


> So, I removed the cranks and the weight of them almost gave me a hernia. They must be that new lead/steel alloy....


Big mistake. Those cranks are made of leadinium alloy specially developed for the Walgoose factory team. Once spun up to 300 rpm their flywheel momentum counteracts the force of gravity.

You don't have to believe me - there's plenty pics of Walgoose factory rider Manual Beastly actually flying his Walgoose.

Also as proof - how many Walgeese do you see flying once their cranks have been replaced?


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## ferrstein (Sep 29, 2008)

Word of the day: Walgeese


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

anyone figured out a different BB? been hearing of a few more bent spindles.


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

The Walbeast spindles are not bent, they a Wal-engineered to a special geometry to take advantage of the vectored forces of your pedal stroke to maximize the power transfer of each stroke. It is brilliant engineering that soon everyone will copy.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

nagant said:


> The Walbeast spindles are not bent, they a Wal-engineered to a special geometry to take advantage of the vectored forces of your pedal stroke to maximize the power transfer of each stroke. It is brilliant engineering that soon everyone will copy.


Ha!

I used to re engineer my one piece cranks on a regular basis when I was a kid. They were a maintenance item for me. Twisted a pair or two in half even.

An early attempt at bio pace, perhaps.


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## jackbombay (Nov 15, 2010)

wadester said:


> Yes, the stock pedals barely turn - their bearings are as tight as everything else! Pry off the end cap and adjust.
> 
> I note most folks are using a threadless adapter, but I found a very nice stem for about the same price. YMMV
> 
> View attachment 801713


Have a link handy for that stem?


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

Similar to a breakaway derailleur hanger, the BB spindle and rear hub mechanisms give way to protect the more valuable parts of the bike, like the, the, ummm... nevermind.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

SmooveP said:


> Similar to a breakaway derailleur hanger, the BB spindle and rear hub mechanisms give way to protect the more valuable parts of the bike, like the, the, ummm... nevermind.


Hmm,
I wonder what my cracked fork saved ?


----------



## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> Hmm,
> I wonder what my cracked fork saved ?


Hopefully saved you from buying another Walmart bike?


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

SmooveP said:


> Hopefully saved you from buying another Walmart bike?


Steel ... When the FREE replacement arrives, I'll have 2


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

Bill in Houston said:


> anyone figured out a different BB? been hearing of a few more bent spindles.


Anybody have the guts to cut the shell down to 100mm, then face and tap it for a proper fat bike BB. My frame hasn't arrived yet, but if it arrives damaged, and I end up with an extra bike as many of you have, I may give this a try.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

yeah, i think that is the right answer.

bikeabuser, i tried the free replacement route, but they just told me to return it to a walmart store. how did you manage to get yours?


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Bill in Houston said:


> yeah, i think that is the right answer.
> 
> bikeabuser, i tried the free replacement route, but they just told me to return it to a walmart store. how did you manage to get yours?


Itold them the truth.
I'd spent considerable time taking the bike apart, greasing everything up properly, putting it back together, changing tires, etcetera, and I didn't want to go through that whole process again.

The first phone call was as yours was ... The second call was when I explained things, and they said OK, we'll send you the parts you need.

FWIW, they told me they've ordered extra forks and bottom brackets to have available.
Houston, we have a problem.


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## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

bikeabuser said:


> Where did you get these ?


Made up at a local sign shop. I have 2 pairs left. $25 a pair shipping included. If anyone is interested PM me.


----------



## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Just saying,


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

AlmostQuick said:


> View attachment 802097
> 
> 
> Made up at a *local sign shop*. I have 2 pairs left. $25 a pair shipping included. If anyone is interested PM me.


Cool ... I was hoping you'd be pointing me to an online custom sticker site where I could select those materials (looks metallic) for something I've been thinking of doing.

Local sign shop it is !


----------



## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

jackbombay said:


> Have a link handy for that stem?


Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors

Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized


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## jackbombay (Nov 15, 2010)

wadester said:


> Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized


 Thank you!


----------



## AlmostQuick (Jan 18, 2010)

bikeabuser said:


> Cool ... I was hoping you'd be pointing me to an online custom sticker site where I could select those materials (looks metallic) for something I've been thinking of doing.
> 
> Local sign shop it is !


The online sites are way too expensive. (I've set up and priced decals there before)

Sign shops are less expensive but have a minimum order before it's worth it for them to set up and run the machine. Most aren't interested in making two custom decals for a few bucks... there's no profit in it for them.

Here's a few others I've had made up in the past...


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

textbookonewk said:


> Anybody have the guts to cut the shell down to 100mm, then face and tap it for a proper fat bike BB. My frame hasn't arrived yet, but if it arrives damaged, and I end up with an extra bike as many of you have, I may give this a try.


I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

bikeabuser said:


> The second call was when I explained things, and they said OK, we'll send you the parts you need.


very cool.



Dirty $anchez said:


> I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.


Do crank arms usually have enough offset to handle that? If so, this seems to be a great solution.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Dirty $anchez said:


> I *intended* to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.


Did you ever get one ?


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Dirty $anchez said:


> I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.





Bill in Houston said:


> very cool.
> 
> Do crank arms usually have enough offset to handle that? If so, this seems to be a great solution.


Ya know, it took 7mm worth of spacers to get the chainline straight using an aluminum 94/56 crankset - taking 5mm off the shell width on the drive side would make it just 2mm.

And instead of pricey 100mm BB cranksets, you can use this:
Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

Replacement for Schwinn Stingray - No More Buying a Complete Bike Just for These Elusive Parts; When Installed in Wider BB Shell Will Provide Proper Chain Clearance for 4" Wide Wheels; Square Shoulder Accepts Standard 3 Piece Crank Arms; Approx. 165mm Long Overall and 100mm Center to Center for Shoulders That Support the Bearing Races; Shoulder Bolts (Pair) Included; BB Cups, Races and Bearings Also Available (Sold Separately).

Your Price: $12.99


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

MiniTrail said:


> lookin good bh :thumbsup:


Thanks, it wanted to be like this. It got an inferiority complex next to my moonlander.

Great thread btw.


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

Does anyone know if a 26 x 4.7 tire will clear the frame?


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Clearance is 5.25" in back & 5.5" at fork.








This translates to about an inch at the pedals, though I never noticed while riding. Would be nice to have a spare if/when available. Took apart bb after a wet ride, and lots of water and dirt in there. Wear on original cups was easy to see where paint was missing! Most wear was at bottom of drive side. Replaced bb with YST. Remember- drive side is lefty thread! New bb has a little rubber seal, not tight, but should help some.
Go easy on them cranks fellas! Helps that I got 32X22 and only 170mm crankarms, but will try spinning more and grunting less for a while.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

in olden times, they drilled a hole in the bottom of the BB to allow water to drain out. prolly a good idea.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Stumbled into this looking for parts. Get comfy & hit play on the 1st video [30 min.] Mongoose | Roots


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

MiniTrail said:


> ^^ stooges did that in a boat


Who are these Stooges you speak of?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

bikeabuser said:


> Did you ever get one ?


No I did not. I am going to use the funds for a Pugs or Mukluk.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Dirty $anchez said:


> No I did not. I am going to use the funds for *a Pugs or Mukluk*.


A better choice ... Me, I just wanted something fat to beat up for a bit, and screw around with ideas on.

My other choice is finally on an inbound truck.


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

Thanks for the clearance info.

Does anyone know if this Shimano Cog For Internal Gear Hub will fit the rear hub and line up with the stock crank and chain ring?


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Ya that one works and same offset as original within a mm. I got the 22t and love it with a 32t front ring for trails and hills and babying the wimpy spindle, but I'm getting a 19t to try for level pavement cruisin'.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

I just put the stock tires back on the beast ... Decided that Pacific was taking to long in their delivery of parts to me ... It's getting returned (tomorrow) to Walmart, with it's crappy welded (crack in the weld) fork.

Keep an eye on thoese welds !!!


----------



## Greenfin (Jun 13, 2011)

bighit said:


> Just saying,
> View attachment 802100


You win, and it's not close.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

bikeabuser said:


> SmooveP said:
> 
> 
> > Hopefully saved you from buying another Walmart bike?
> ...


Gave up on the waiting.

The main reason it went bye bye ... I'd have kep ti, if Pacific didn't futz around for over a month.
If the parts ever show up, I guess I'll write "return to sender" on the package.








The lady in customer service was giving me funny looks, and when I got to the counter she said "Oh, it's a Walmart Bike, I've never seen that model".

I kind of think she was giving me the eye for bringing my bike into the store to return something else LOL.

Keep an eye on those welds, Walmart shoppers !!!


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

bikeabuser said:


> Gave up on the waiting.
> 
> The main reason it went bye bye ... I'd have kep ti, if Pacific didn't futz around for over a month.
> If the parts ever show up, I guess I'll write "return to sender" on the package.
> ...


Don't go to the store. I had a bent fork. I called them direct and I had to provide a pic and SS number and a new bike was on the way. They send it in a giant box with the bike box inside. When you do what you got to do call them and tell them your ready and they send a call tag the next day.

Good customer service.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

bighit said:


> Don't go to the store. I had a bent fork. I called them direct and I had to provide a pic and SS number and a new bike was on the way. They send it in a giant box with the bike box inside. When you do what you got to do call them and tell them your ready and they send a call tag the next day.
> 
> Good customer service.


To late !!!
Took it in this morning ... Besides ... It was an experiment in my mind, while waiting for the real Fat Bike to become available ... Fed Ex says it should arrive, tomorrow 

I'd have kept the goose, if Pacific didn't drag the heels ... A month is more than long enough to wait.

*On* to the next *One* ... Goose solidified my thoughts ... Ideas firm at this point.

Pic's and a new thread, soon.

ETA:
If the parts ever arrive, and Pacific doesn't want them back, they'll get posted as available, to whoever wants to pay shipping charges.


----------



## mochunk (Aug 20, 2012)

Built up a Beast for my GF to try some fatbiking for herself. I had some extra fat bike tires laying around and ordered up some cheapo purple bits to put together "Donatello" for her. Already considering building a 907 XS green frame with all purple bits for her. It certainly would be better than this thing. It was a fun exercise at least and she can get some seat time in. I haven't had much luck with the weak bottom bracket axle though with my big ass bunny hopping it. She babies it so it's fine for her.


----------



## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

*Ker' SNAP.... Broken Hub...*



AKPowderhound said:


> Okay took the time to try to carve some weight off. Headset converter, alloy bars, crank arms, 32 tooth front, retained stock rear. Surly 120 tpi front tire, stock rear tire. (Origin8 Devist-8er 120tpi on order) Stock tubes. Still at 41lbs, so far all from the parts bin, only cost at this point the Devist-8er and some grips for $70.00...
> 
> Thing is still insanely fun to ride, had gotten so used to the 36 tooth, swapping to the 32 tooth should make it even more fun on the trails!
> 
> ...


On flat ground and had the rear hub snap as I was taking off. Lost all forward and brake immediately, nice day, enjoyed the walk home. Harvested the spare rear wheel/hub from the second bike Pacific had sent to correct a cracked bottom bracket on the green one. Called Pacific and they indicated new forks, and rear wheels were coming in first of June, but would not be avilivble for sale immediately, were allotted to warranty issues first.($80.00 + Shipping for a complete rear wheel/Tire/Hub) Fortunately I'm underway again... And I still have my $19.99 3 year bumper to bumper warranty in my back pocket!


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

How about taking the hub apart and welding over the original weld to beef it up a bit before it breaks?


----------



## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

it's amazing that pacific is sending you guys any bikes or parts. when i called they had no answer other than to return it to a walmart store. happy for y'all.


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

Maybe re-weld the forks also before the original welds break?


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

It occurred to me that both of the "breakage" (BB axle, hub driver) fails are probably due to poor heat treating. If I was going to do anything preventive, I would try to repeat the heat treatment - but other than the standard "heat red hot, then quench in motor oil" I'm not sure what would work best. If I break a driver, I will reweld it and heat treat it like that.


----------



## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Does anyone know which Park tool (or any other brand) I need to remove the BB?


----------



## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Any old screwdriver and hammer turns the lockring, then a big adjustable wrench on the flat shoulders of the non-drive side cup. The hard part for me was the drive side. Had to go find the GOOD crescent wrench. Don't forget [like I did] drive side is reverse threaded [clockwise to loosen]. I put the new YST cups on with needlenose pliers instead of the right tool but it worked fine.


----------



## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Cool...thanks for the heads-up.


----------



## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

rss26Roger said:


> Does anyone know which Park tool (or any other brand) I need to remove the BB?


You need three tools; a hook spanner, a pin spanner, and a "round hole with 2 flats" tool. They usually are a set of two, with a combo on at least one of them.
Park HCW4







Park HCW5








This is what I've got:


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## nagant (Aug 8, 2012)

or... in the spirit of how beastly the beast really is... all you need is a hammer, chisel, and vice grips. But seriously, the threading of my bottom bracket was so poor and I believe that the shell itself was out of round that the bottom bracket was very hard to turn out and re-install. The park tools might not be robust enough to handle the job. Be prepared for some frustration and be prepared to improvise.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> To late !!!
> Took it in this morning ... Besides ... It was an experiment in my mind, while waiting for the real Fat Bike to become available ... Fed Ex says it should arrive, tomorrow
> 
> I'd have kept the goose, if Pacific didn't drag the heels ... A month is more than long enough to wait.
> ...


I check back in and what do I see but this  :banghead: 

I won't say those 4 words. Welcome to the club I guess... now you can give advice to those who think cheap fat bikes will be the holy grail when a new one comes along... like many of us did for you when the goose got loose... and be told your an elite snob :thumbup: :beer:


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

duggus said:


> I check back in and what do I see but this  :banghead:
> 
> I won't say those 4 words. Welcome to the club I guess... now you can give advice to those who think cheap fat bikes will be the holy grail when a new one comes along... like many of us did for you when the goose got loose... and be told your an elite snob :thumbup: :beer:


I doubt you'll ever see the value a cheap bike possesses


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

bikeabuser said:


> I doubt you'll ever see the value a cheap bike possesses


Oh yes... I have a cheapo singlespeed road bike I got off Amazon for riding to work. Works great for that.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

MiniTrail said:


> cheap bikes become expensive ones when you try to make anything out of them
> 
> I a few hundy in a free bike


I hear you and do understand.
This Beast did allow me to fully determine my desire for a FB, though ... It also gave me time to think about many aspects of bicycles in general, and frame design to get specific.
I still want to build my own long wheelbase, FB camping/excursion bike, someday ... And as I said all along, anything thrown at the Beast would be done with the intent of eventually moving it to a different bike.
Oh well ... It's gone, and I've moved on.

Besides, my brazing technique still needs a lot of work.


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## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Thanks for the tool recommendations...they are now on their way.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

nagant said:


> or... in the spirit of how beastly the beast really is... all you need is a hammer, chisel, and vice grips.
> 
> ...Be prepared for some frustration and be prepared to improvise.


Isn't that half the fun of a bike like the Walgoose? It doesn't matter if you stuff it up.


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

My build









Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

that's where I'm going with mine, i think. longer stem and a layback seatpost, and a more reasonable gear ratio. what can you tell me about the seatpost?


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

That's just a 410mmThomson layback post, and 120mm Salsa stem. I'm 6'3" and the bike does not fit me properly, but for the fun I plan tho have on it, it will work just fine. Headed out now for its first trail ride.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Ah, cool, I am also 6'3". Thanks.


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

Just got back from my first fat bike ride. FUN! I rode some pretty serious AZ chunk, and walked a good bit of steep climbs, but the bike was a blast. I would say it was money well spent. This bike is not even close to being a great performing fat bike, but man did it put a smile on my face. The coaster brake, and lack of a front brake really made for an exciting ride. If I want to go faster and walk less I have another bike for that, but that bike might be on garage duty for a while.

I'll be drilling the rims and swapping out the heavy stock tubes next.


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

textbookonewk said:


> My build
> 
> 
> 
> ...





textbookonewk said:


> Just got back from my first fat bike ride. FUN! I rode some pretty serious *AZ* chunk, and walked a good bit of steep climbs, but the bike was a blast. I would say it was money well spent. This bike is not even close to being a great performing fat bike, but man did it put a smile on my face. The coaster brake, and lack of a front brake really made for an exciting ride. If I want to go faster and walk less I have another bike for that, but that bike might be on garage duty for a while.
> 
> I'll be drilling the rims and swapping out the heavy stock tubes next.


I thought I recognized that truck.

I like the white pedals ... They look good !!!


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## iLikesbikes (May 5, 2013)

I just got mine a week ago.
I had the hubs and BB properly lubed at the LBS and went to work on it.
Here's my goose:

















painted wheels black
2 surly nate 27tpi tires
20 tooth rear cog
origin8 threaded to threadless quill
truvativ 90mm stem
truvativ handlebars
origin8 seat

This thing is a blast to romp around the local trails.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Nice, I like the black rims. I havent done much lately, but I did have a sweet temp mod yesterday. Caught me a couple bass


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

cheetah print sets and fishin' poles. good stuff.


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## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

rss26Roger said:


> Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.


Hmm. I thought that part of setting up a dinglespeed was to have the same tooth count (or close) on both, so you didn't have to mess with tensioners?

Bigger problem would be getting 2 sprockets on the back - which would require a hub swap, methinks.


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## woodi2259 (Jul 14, 2004)

Being that this is a hub braked bike I would think your only hope of running a tensioner would be one of the ones that are fixed like this one










Having any sort of spring loaded thing in there is gonna mean your brakes don't work. I'd even be worried about a fixed one slipping.

And as wadester said dingle is all about using a combination of front and rear chain rings that have the same total tooth count isn't it?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough. 

Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.


----------



## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?


----------



## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Velobike said:


> Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough.
> 
> Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.


Or they can pry open your dropout.

I have never tried it myself, but there is the ghost ring method also. Can't speak to its reliability


----------



## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

rss26Roger said:


> Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?


The only IGH that will fit:
Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.


----------



## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

Assembled, adjusted all bearings and greased up the new Goose Lander plus swapped out to a 22 tooth rear cog and a longer seat post. So far so good, been out on a handful of off road 10 - 25 mile loops. I've been going easy by not really stomping on the pedals for fear of busting the rear hub drive. I'm 6'1' and personally I like the geometry of the Beast.

I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm. Thumpy69 has been helpful with some insight on this.

Up to now for $240, I'm floatin & gloatin! This cheap chinese junker is not good for those with no mechanical skills. I look at it as a frame and set of rims for $200. I'm gonna slowly tweak and experiment until I get the Beast Lander in shape for some heavier abuse.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

Joe Motocross said:


> I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm.


 The goose frame is just plain hi-carbon steel, easy and safe to permanently coldset the rear triangle down to fit a narrower hub so no flimpy axel spacer is needed. You could do the coldsetting slighlty asymetrically to get the chainline strait, get good chain/tire clearance and get the spoke dishing more even.


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

Built another for a buddy









Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## cujo_mia_chew_toy (May 29, 2013)

wadester said:


> The only IGH that will fit:
> Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.
> 
> 170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.


this may also work on this set up if you decide to go that route. 2 Bicycle F R Disc Brake Brackets Buy 2 Pieces for $31 99 | eBay but there is another thread where a guy made a bracket for his beast to mount a caliper


----------



## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Disc brake Beast!! | The UNDERGROUND!


----------



## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)




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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Lost Tapes: Yeti : Video : Animal Planet


----------



## iLikesbikes (May 5, 2013)

What crank did you use to replace the stock one?


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## textbookonewk (Apr 17, 2009)

Any old square taper crank should work. I used an old XT M750 on mine.

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

I have been a running a beast for about three weeks now. I've been doing 15 to 25 mile off-road loops on it. So far so good. I started out babying it quite a bit as I was worried about blowing up the rear hub or crank. I've progressively been beating on it more and it's held together. I am 190 pounds and 6'1" so I needed a longer seat post. I am running the stock 36 tooth sprocket in front and a 23 tooth cog in the rear, this suits me pretty well. You need to add a couple links to the chain to fit the larger cog. The bottom bracket is an obvious issue as lots of debris can get in there easy. I cleaned all the sand out the other day and re-greased the bearings. I've made a makeshift semi-seal out of some poly tubing.







I've been impressed enough with the bike to purchase a second bike as a project bike. I got a Shimano Nexus eight speed hub with a coaster brake to string up. I had to do a little custom job in extending the axle so I could get the chain line right. I used one of the nuts that came with the hub as a coupling nut by chopping of the end. I then robbed a little chunk off another old axle to use as an extension.







With this configuration the chain line is straight and the hub fits well. Note the coaster brake arm is not near close to where it needs to be.







Next was lacing the wheel. Since the hub is off set, I needed to string the wheel off set as well. This required drilling a few more spoke holes in the rim.







I ended up using 252mm length spokes on the drive side and 248mm on the brake side. If I were to do it again I would use 252 and 250mm.







I had to pull the coaster brake lever off the hub and put it in a vice to bend it enough to line up properly.







Bottom line:Beast $200
Hub & shifter $200
23 tooth cog $10
Taxes & shipping $40
So I am into the eight speed beast $450. For me, this bike has been great.


----------



## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Hmmm...

I don't think the axle extension will work out, ultimately. However, it is a very creative project nonetheless.


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Nice job!!


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

Oh yeah, I forgot $20 for spokes. $470, still not bad for a geared fat bike.

I have complete confidence in my makeshift axle extension. I thought I might turn a custom coupling nut on a lathe but I don't think it's necesary.

Bottom bracket and crank are much more likely to give me problems is my guess.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I contemplated trying a similar bodge for an axle extension idea myself, but chickened out. I figure that a failure could be a bit nasty.

If you do end up making an extension, I reckon you'll have a ready market - once you've tested it  The inability to use a hubgear on a 170mm rear is a major hindrance at the moment.


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

Very cool ... I hope it stands up to a bit of abuse 'cause 8 gears on that thing is exactly what it needs.


----------



## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

My question has always been...

I like the concept, as we all likely have a love/hate relationship with the derailleur. However, is an IGH really up to the rigors of real all mountain trail riding without copious service, or are they only suited for moderate aventuring?


----------



## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

I'd say that depends on what you define as "mountain trail riding", which IGH you are using, and how adept you are to servicing the thing properly and regularly.

The Rolhoff is MTB rated, but very expensive, and some of the old 3 speed jobs ... Well, I broke one on the street, as a teenager.


----------



## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

I think a better approach than extending axle, bending coaster arm would have been to cold-set the left chainstay/seatstay of the 170mm rear end down an offset 135mm width. Steel frames are entirely amenable to such modification. Make the cheap, disposable frame fit your nice IG hub, not the other way around.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

TrailMaker said:


> My question has always been...
> 
> I like the concept, as we all likely have a love/hate relationship with the derailleur. However, is an IGH really up to the rigors of real all mountain trail riding without copious service, or are they only suited for moderate aventuring?


Almost all hubgears depend on the axle remaining true because it is basically the mainshaft of a gearbox, and if you bend it then everything is thrown out of mesh. Plus a lot of hubgear axles have a fairly large slot internally for the gear change mechanism.

Most hubgears I have seen "broken" are because the adjustment was not set properly. They need to be set to the mark, not twiddled until it is "good enough". Dud cables are also a common factor.

I've never broken one in decades of riding offroad, but my riding is more aimed at getting me somewhere than thrilling gravity heroics.


----------



## mochunk (Aug 20, 2012)

Recent shot of Donatello. Swapped on some Sunlite tires for an upcoming long late night street ride and the Brooks. Also ESI grips to combat a Latex allergy. It was the hit of the local ride and BBQ as most hadn't seen one in person.


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

*My trail work beast*

Built this one up to haul trail gear since my trail only has access at two points.

I used:
Stock Beast Frame

Customized Howitzer BB and crank
Custom built wheels (Sun BFR rims on a leftover rear hub for front, Rocky mountain 150mm hub for the rear, tires are stock)
Moonlander Fork
Funn disk brakes (custom built rear mount)
Thomson post
Cheap and leftover handlebars, pedals, seat, etc
Rear rack is a transit, Ammo cans for panniers
Front is a Wald "paperboy" rack

Works great, hauls a lot of weight, weighs slightly more than stock.


----------



## 10ford (Mar 12, 2013)

^That's really nice!^


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## whizone (Jun 28, 2013)

howdy guys new to the forum and just ordered (2) Mongoose beasts for the wife and I. I am a big guy 6'3" 290 and she is a big gal better not say but you get the idea.. I have been reading through all your bike science and was blown away. Anyway I would like to make some inital mods to the bikes and was seeking some input. Info on what BB and Cranks, sprockets, layback seat posts and seats to make the bikes enjoyable as possible to ride. Maybe later do some speeds if you guys come up with an easy mod for it. Anyway all help is greatly appreciated. thanks,


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## bikeabuser (Aug 12, 2012)

CruJonez said:


> Built this one up to haul trail gear since my trail only has access at two points.


Damn fine setup


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Great rig, CruJones.


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks guys, I chose the Howitzer BB and crank because I already had the crank lying around and they are tough as nails. The BB needed minimal modification to work with the frame, basically I replaced the sealed bearings with some slightly narrower ones because the insert on the stock bearings was too wide for the frame width. I have a plan to add 8spd setup but it is down the road a bit. I will need a side roller setup to keep the chain out of the tire in the lowest gear, it seemed to clear 1-7 fine running a spacer behind the cassette on the 8/9 hub. My tire profile is slightly narrower on the BFR rims, measuring 3.8" with the micrometer, so that helps. I used an axle bolt on derailleur hanger for my test fit. I plan to use the other side sliding dropout from the set I used to build the brake mount. They were fairly easy to modify to bolt onto the huge dropouts on the back of this frame. I did have to open up the rear dropouts a bit with a die grinder to get the 12mm axle to slide in. It was fairly time consuming to do that and keep them the same on both sides of the frame.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

CruJonez, could You show pix of brake mount? I'd like to try disc on the rear also. Is this the brake? BlueSkyCycling.com - Funn EZR Mechanical Disc Brake w/ Rotor Also, did You bend the frame to make the 150mm hub fit? These are significant achievements in Beast re-engineering worthy of documentation. Thank You and congratulations.


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

These are the best I can do right now, The brake mount also serves as a spacer for the axle to fit the frame. Those are the brakes, they periodically run the on sale for $12 each which is a better deal to me since you can order BB5 sets out of hong kong for $50 full set.

This mount works well for the riding I am doing, if it were going to be ridden harder I would drill another hole to secure the dropout to the frame, it doesn't move or flex the way I have it, but I also haven't abused it, the bike is too heavy to go fast, especially when loaded up.





The dropout is from a Diamondback Assault, it was the least expensive I could find with the required dimensions.


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

Dropouts I used


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## jnl1105 (Oct 3, 2011)

Where did you get those dropouts from?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

jnl1105 said:


> Where did you get those dropouts from?





CruJonez said:


> The dropout is from a Diamondback Assault, it was the least expensive I could find with the required dimensions.


the dropout idea is great. easily available, flat, and has the right mounting holes for the calipers.


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## jnl1105 (Oct 3, 2011)

did you have them laying around or did you order them, do you happen to have a part number?


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

whizone said:


> howdy guys new to the forum and just ordered (2) Mongoose beasts for the wife and I. I am a big guy 6'3" 290 and she is a big gal better not say but you get the idea.. I have been reading through all your bike science and was blown away. Anyway I would like to make some inital mods to the bikes and was seeking some input. Info on what BB and Cranks, sprockets, layback seat posts and seats to make the bikes enjoyable as possible to ride. Maybe later do some speeds if you guys come up with an easy mod for it. Anyway all help is greatly appreciated. thanks,


I'd start with just changing the rear cog out to a 22t to lower the gearing, from there it really depends on where you plan on riding and personal preferance.


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## strengthcycle (Sep 27, 2007)

Yeah those are cool brake mounts


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

I got them on amazon, search Raleigh America Diamondback Derailleur Hanger-2 (Black) only 2 sets left.


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

*Still working on my Beast...more pictures to come, hope you guys like it.*


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Gads;

The doodads I see in the picture quintuple the price of the bike!


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

SJbikefanatic said:


> View attachment 815550


How did you work the BB/Crank install? Trim down the housing, or it just worked?

Sweet bike!


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

I trimmed the non-drive side about 10mm and I used the Race Face Turbine. The crank arms will clear the chain stays with about 5mm to spare. Thanks for asking.


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## PBR (Jul 9, 2013)

Finally picked up a Beast out of curiosity. There's lot os OK parts and lots of crap parts. One of the crap parts is that rear hub...it is already clicking & clanging. It also feels real loose. I've only put about 30-40 miles on the bike, all pretty fun stuff going over curbs, big rocks, etc. I'm concerns about this hub though, does anyone know if there exists a replacement? I've scoured these threads and I haven't turned up much. Thanks.


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## Thumpy69 (Mar 1, 2013)

call the 800 number down by the BB. I also had a bad rear hub. They sent me a complete replacement bike and told me to keep the original for parts. Now I have two.


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## PBR (Jul 9, 2013)

Thanks Thumpy, I will try that and see what they say. I just got back from a little 5mi trail spin on the thing...wow it is a workout to say the least. Fun as hell, but definitely a work out. Plus it is 90 in Ohio at this very moment so that didn't help.


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

*Finally, took the Beast out on the trail!*


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## PBR (Jul 9, 2013)

SJbikefanatic can you point me in the direction of where to get disc brakes like yours? Thanks


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

holy smokes, well done!


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

SJbikefanatic

The bike looks fantastic but what was the motivation for using this frame over everything else, with the obvious price of the rest of your build there must be some real reason?


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

PBR said:


> SJbikefanatic can you point me in the direction of where to get disc brakes like yours? Thanks


PBR, it's just regular Formula R1 brakes & rotors which I had laying around in my parts bin. The rear caliper bracket is from ebay. Thanks.


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

TitanofChaos said:


> SJbikefanatic
> 
> The bike looks fantastic but what was the motivation for using this frame over everything else, with the obvious price of the rest of your build there must be some real reason?


TitanofChaos, thank you for the compliment. I'm really not sure what the motivation was or reason, I think I just felt challenged that this cheap bike can be modified/upgraded and can get a shot of being a legit fat bike. I know this frame is not the ideal frame but I will be stripping this down once I get a better one.


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

skota23 said:


> holy smokes, well done!


Thank you sir!


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

can't imagine why you got a timeout...


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## jay.schubert (Jul 29, 2008)

*This pic made me decide to buy one - which tires?*

Love your bike! This pic made me decide to pull the trigger. Which Devist8er tire model do you have there?



Jim Hannoonen said:


> View attachment 792007
> 
> Drilled the rims (my first time doing this) and put on some Devist8er tires with regular old 26x2.35 tubes.


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## GoPlayOutside (Aug 19, 2009)

Looks nice, I was thinking about drilling my wheels, but the rim seam looks like it might keep from cutting in one section.. Will it damage or weaken the rim if the seam is cut through, I'm going to guess yes, but since i've never done this before I thought i would ask.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

SJbikefanatic said:


> View attachment 815481
> 
> View attachment 815550
> 
> View attachment 815573


Holy crap. Some people have more time/money than sense.


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## SJbikefanatic (May 1, 2011)

jay.schubert said:


> Love your bike! This pic made me decide to pull the trigger. Which Devist8er tire model do you have there?


Thanks! Those tires are the UL type by Vee Rubber.


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## twistedattitude (Aug 1, 2013)

Hi
Newbie here!
Just got my beast delivered and built it up! ( had to grease up everything as it was dry as hell!
It seems a little high on gearing, what is the everyone else using on stock hub and what would anyone advise??
Also any ideas or suggestions on better looking bars or headstock( kind of want to keep the motocross styling)
Thanks


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## 1SPDBING (Mar 16, 2013)

Deleted


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

is the original seat post 28.6 also?

looks great. I am headed in the same direction with mine.


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## 1SPDBING (Mar 16, 2013)

Deleted


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

Wow all these mods make my beast look tame..... Not! Amazing work unleashing this beast.


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## bighit (Feb 13, 2004)

the beast in The wild.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

yeah, the original stock seat post is pretty wobbly.


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## salt_fish (Mar 28, 2013)

SJbikefanatic said:


> View attachment 817314


Haha, hooooooly ****! This bike is proof that any build is possible with the right tools, time, and attitude.


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## mochunk (Aug 20, 2012)

salt_fish said:


> Haha, hooooooly ****! This bike is proof that any build is possible with the right tools, time, and attitude.


And money...


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## GoPlayOutside (Aug 19, 2009)

*Chainring bolts and spacer*

Hey... What type and length chainring bolts and spacers did you use, I installed a Redline crack that came off my MonoCog and the chainline is almost a full 10mm off compared to 73-74mm the orginal crank sits at.


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## tex22 (Dec 15, 2012)

Got my on sale red beast today. Sadly, the rear wheel had a major flattened section on the rim so the tire wasn't seating properly. And a couple of big dings in the downtube. The box didn't look too bad so I'm not sure the damage was in transit.
Seeing if walmart can get me another one by next week as I wanted this for burning man. 
All the bearings feel too tight like everyone else has reported....


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## ~gomez~ (Sep 26, 2006)

Tallgoose


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Bravo!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

How many spokes do the beast wheels have? Mine will be here later this week, and I have some Deore hubs that I want to widen.

I have a feeling the Beast is 36 spoke, and my hubs are 32.

And I doubt there is a good way to use a 36 hole rim with a 32 hole hub.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Definitely 36.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ah Bummer!

I guess im on the lookout for some used 36hole hubs.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Its a fun bike - you will enjoy!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ya Im sure! I set one up for a buddy last week. He ordered 2 more for his boys and I ordered 1 too.

I have a ton of extra parts, so I want to make mine into a legit MTB. Plans are 1x9 drivetrain with disc brakes. And I was hoping to be sub 35lbs and under $500 total investment...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Has anyone tried the extra long V brakes at Choppers US? I wonder if they would clear the Beasts tires?


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

i haven't seen anyone try those. i've seen people use cantis, and there was a guy who welded his own long-armed v-brakes.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I made some custom cranks tonight.

I started with a set of cranks from a cruiser I had. Aluminum arms with a stamped steel chainring. Using a hole saw, I cut the chainring off so that only the inner 1 1/2 inches was left. Then I took a cog, and drilled it so that I could bolt a 22t chainring to it. Next I ground the teeth off of the cog so that it was basically round. I then welded the cog to the cutdown stamped chainring. This allowed me to bolt the 22t ring where the large ring would be on a standard MTB crankset.

Im going to use a 16t cog in the back. This will give me roughly the same gearing as the 32/23 my buddy has on his. He loves it. Plus the 22 front with an 11t cog will give me the original ratio.

Will these cranks last? Who knows, but they were fun to make and saved me 1lb 6.2oz. The new cog is half the weight of the old one, plus it will let me cut the chain shorter.

Here are some pics:


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

smaller chainrings and cogs look cooler too. i have a feeling there are drawbacks in efficiency and chain life, but they do look sweet.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

*My " Unleash the beast" mods*

So being a bit late to this thread I thought I'd post what I've gotten done so far, Like many here I bought this as a project knowing what it is. Since I had a bunch of parts on hand already its come together pretty fast. I bought red because I had a set of red lock-on grips 

Changed the stem to an Answer A-Tac. 
bars are Full on Funn triple butted.
Answer pro tapered headset.
Purchased the YST BB bearings.
Swapped the tires for V-rubber missions.
26x3.00 DH tubes.
Shimano cranks geared 26x16.
Homemade bash guard made from kitchen cutting board.
Thompson seatpost.
Fizik Nizene saddle.
Changed the front hub to a disc hub.
Drilled the front rim.
Fabricated and welded on a caliper mount.
Installed avid juicy five with 200mm disc . 
Red lock-on grips.
Still to come -
I ordered a Sturmey Archer 3 speed / disc rear hub 170mm wide.
I will install rear disc brakes and drill the rear rim as well as lose the side stand.
What a differance the front brake makes, suddenly unafraid to rail through turns, single track is a blast and its been a great project, I'm sure it will get alot of use when the snow fly's here in Colorado.
granted this will never compare to my 23lbs 29er but what the hell, I'm in it for around five bills out of pocket including the 3 speed hub being shipped from England.
Thanks to all those who shared ideas.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That thing is super cool!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Tidy job.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

that's a massive rotor! very nice work.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I've got a juicy 5 with a 203mm rotor on my Yeti. I LOVE it!! Just watch out because you can stop REALLY hard.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Thanks for all the comps !

Bill - I tried a 160mm rotor and the spokes hit the caliper, 185 would have done it but bigger is better in this case, plenty of clearance and huge stopping power.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

it's perfect!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got a set of Origin8 tires today. I dont have any pics on the bike because my beast wont be here till tuesday. But Ill post some mounted pics ASAP. I didnt realize they were made my Vee Rubber.

Here are the pics I have:

Here is it next to a 26x2.1










And next to a Schwalbe Muddy Mary 2.5





































Also, got my bars setup. Stem adapter, generic stem, and a carbon bar. over half pound lighter than stock.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

If anyone is interested in doing the front disc conversion here is a link to the hub, you will need shorter spokes in the 256 to 258mm range.
Amazon.com: Wheel Master Front Alloy Hub - 36H, 3/8" Bolt-On, Disc 135mm, Loose Ball, Black: Sports & Outdoors

There is a sealed bearing version for about $10 more. BTW, spoke length calculators dont work accurately for these rims due to the wide pattern , I had more threads rolled on mine and shortened them. It might be possible to add 5mm thick washers under the nipples but ??? , I have used 2mm thick aluminum rivet backup washers in the past with no problems to effectivly shorten spokes. ( I know, kinda mickey mouse )
I originally tried to lace them up Cross 4 but the spokes are too short for that. If I'm super lucky I'll be able to go cross 4 on the Sturmey 3 speed hub since the flanges are really large and closer together. we'll see when it gets here.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks so much. I've been shopping and missed that one. 
At Freespoke one can enter spoke bed offset which is 17.5 mm each side on the Beast rim. My 1st time using it and fairly easy, it's free, and they make a drawing for You.
I'm trying a 150 mm X 12mm axle with spacers on the rear as done by CruJonez. ChoppersUS is out of stock but: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-...-hub-for-disc-brake-sx-rk3-36-hole-prod19019/ Please let Us know how You like that 3 speed. Seems like the simplest hub mod for gears and disc.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Thanks for the link , I couldnt find one that allowed for spoke offset, I did get the hub from SJS , should be here next week sometime, I'll post how it works out.



dudeist said:


> Thanks so much. I've been shopping and missed that one.
> Freespoke Here one can enter spoke bed offset which is 17.5 mm each side on the Beast rim. My 1st time using it and fairly easy, plus they make a drawing for You and free site.
> I'm trying a 150 mm X 12mm axle with spacers on the rear as done by CruJonez. ChoppersUS is out of stock but: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-...-hub-for-disc-brake-sx-rk3-36-hole-prod19019/ Please let Us know how You like that 3 speed. Seems like the simplest hub mod for gears and disc.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

has anyone tried the choppersrus crank spindle/axle?

blown240, i love the look of those bars. i have the parts, but haven't put mine on yet. I wish it had been worth more than half a pound. i didn't get a carbon bar, and was still hoping for weight savings.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Bill - If I remember right the 1/2 pound savings includes the brake levers and the LX 8 speed shifter. If you remove them the weight savings is closer to a pound. I can double check the weights again if you like...

Also, the stock stem is half aluminum, so even though its heavy, its not as bad as I thought, and having to buy a stem adapter and a thread-less stem isn't the lightest way to go. I would think if a guy looked enough, you could find an aluminum 1 1/8th threaded stem that would save even more weight. I went the way I did because I already had the carbon bars and the stem. I got the adapter for $14 at Performance Bike. (which happens to be within walking distance from my house)


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Ok, if it included the levers and shifter that makes more sense. i'll weigh my own when i swap them. i have all the parts, i just haven't put them together yet.

I think you are right about the threaded/threadless thing. A light threaded stem would be lighter than the adapter and stem. The adapter is all about image.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Bill in Houston said:


> has anyone tried the choppersrus crank spindle/axle?
> 
> "So I ordered a replacement spindle from Cycles U.S. Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S. and unfortunately, it's a no go. It's about a 1/2" shorter and the bearing races are about 1/8" further apart than the stock BB spindle on each side.
> I installed some spacers on the fixed side of the BB when I installed it but have barely 2mm clearance on the drive side and the crank arm hits the frame if I put any real pressure on the left pedal."
> ...


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## mochunk (Aug 20, 2012)

Bill in Houston said:


> I think you are right about the threaded/threadless thing. A light threaded stem would be lighter than the adapter and stem. The adapter is all about image.


Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around.


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## jackbombay (Nov 15, 2010)

Denisesewa said:


> spoke length calculators dont work accurately for these rims due to the wide pattern...


 I think you should be able to measure how far from the center line of the rim the spoke holes are, I'll guess 10mm for each side for the sake of conversation, so from spoke to spoke there is a 20mm gap as each spoke is 10mm from the center line. Lets say the hub flanges are 100mm apart, so we subtract 20 from 100 and use 80mm as the hub flange width measurement and a spoke calculator should work as we will have effectively eliminated the wide spoke pattern from the measurements.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

dudeist said:


> The above from Jim Hanoonen on another Beast thread. Not entirely clear whether it could possibly work with some cranks with wide offsets and shims/spacers/refacing/installed backward?


yeah, it seems like it juuuust might work...



mochunk said:


> Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around.


What do you mean?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

My Beast will be here tomorrow, so tonight I came up with a probably stupid idea:









I already have several used rear shocks, including a pretty nice Fox alps 4 that has about 1 1/2 stroke. I also already have the curved black link pieces.

So I would need to make the seat stays, shock mount, and pivots. Since its all steal, those parts would be pretty easy to fab. I would probably just find a used cheapie FS bike and use the pivots etc...

Once I get my beast, I probably wont want to cut it up, but Ive done worse before!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

blown240 said:


> My Beast will be here tomorrow, so tonight I came up with a probably stupid idea...


Great idea, go for it. 

What better bike to do bold experiments on?

(Although if you haven't ridden a fatbike before, you may be surprised at how little need there is for suspension.)


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Bill in Houston;10650782
What do you mean?[/QUOTE said:


> I think he was continuing the statement concerning stems " Its all about image" >> " Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around".


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

BTW, concerning stems there are plenty of 1 1/8th threaded quill stems around as these came on many early ( Cheap) mountain bikes and BMX bikes, since these are not generally wanted they are cheap. these two I happened to have in my junk bin.


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## Morpheous (Mar 28, 2006)

I was able to save about 45 Lbs on mine, and solve all the issues by returning this most terrible bicycle. The steering issue is horrendous. Unfortunately, many first time buyers will think that this is how all fatbikes feel. That is not good.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Morpheous said:


> I was able to save about 45 Lbs on mine, and solve all the issues by returning this most terrible bicycle. The steering issue is horrendous...


Ultimate WW. 

Out of interest, did you try it with the tyres from your Pug?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Mine got here tonight. Here a quick pic, I'll fill in the details tomorrow, it's late ...


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Losing the rotating mass at the wheels by changing tires / tubes made a huge differance in handeling on mine, I ride alot of trials so this geo really doesnt feel bad to me although I have thought about a longer fork to change the geo abit .
Velo is right, tires are everything


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

got my beast yesterday. Once I greased everything I put it together. So far I have removed the kick stand and chain guard, installed my cranks and 16t cog, a carbon bar, a stem adapter and stem, a nice leather seat I had, and some Devist8r tires. I havent had a chance to weigh it yet.

Here are some pics:

















Here is the new tire next to the old:

















And here is what happened when I tried to blow the cheap grips off with an air compressor:

POP!!









The only real damage out of the box was that the fork was partially stripped by the keyed washer. Looks like they forced it on and then it spun:









Also, I tried to use some 26x2.5 tubes in the new tires because they were much lighter, but this is what happened. Does anyone know how to avoid this? Ive read many threads about using regular tubes:









At this point its rideable, but when coasting the rear hub wants to grab a bit and makes the cog click back and forth. Its probably just an adjustment, but I'm planning on swapping hubs anyway...

Next plans are to remove the stickers, drill the rims, and start working on some hand brakes.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

I received the Sturmey 3 speed last night so today went to work on getting it installed , Drilled the rear rim ( went with 1 1/4 instead of 
1 1/2 holes like the front ) had to dissasemble another wheel to get the spokes , laced up the wheel cross 4 with 271mm spokes, fabricated the brake caliper mount and welded it on, I decided not to go with slotted mounts to accomadate wheel position when tightening the chain, I will instead just use different thickness mounting disc's/cupped washers since the Avids already use them and I used a tektro disc which has a rather wide contact area so minor adjustments will be no problem, I welded a cable mount for the 3 speed to the chain stay rather than use a clamp-on type as I dont want things going out of adjustment, also went with a 23 tooth cog instead of the 20 that comes with the hub, I think this might be too low but we'll see, all the cables kinda take away from the clean look the bike had but its really cool to have good brakes and I wont have to walk the couple of climbs I had to when it was single speed, The shifting is smooth and gear spacing feels appropriate.
It shifts perfectly with the SRAM I-Motion grip shift. So far I like it ! Anyway, been a long day , I'll hit some singletrack in the morning.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

blown240 said:


> , I tried to use some 26x2.5 tubes in the new tires because they were much lighter, but this is what happened. Does anyone know how to avoid this? Ive read many threads about using regular tubes:
> 
> View attachment 829452
> 
> ...


 That tube is hilariuos , I used 26x3.00 tubes from Cambria bike on Ebay with out a problem.
Looking good so far.


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## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Which model of Sturmey did you use?


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## rss26Roger (May 17, 2013)

Also, would you mind posting where you ordered it? I've not been able to locate any place that has the 170mm in stock.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

rss26Roger said:


> Which model of Sturmey did you use?


 SX RK3

From SJS in england >> http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-...onid=5db0ee088f6af56cb091b42af7aec1bd5960ef61
It arrived pretty fast , I bought the last one but they had them back in stock in a few days which makes me wonder why Chopperrus has been out of stock for so long , It costs a bit more from SJS and you have to buy a shifter ( $15 on ebay) unless you want to run the stick shifter it comes with.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Morpheous said:


> The steering issue is horrendous.


Hmmm, mine steers great. There's a bit of gyroscope feel once you get going faster.

My keyed washer had been spun too.

Great work, y'all.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I'd never measured the SRAM shifter for cable pull, so it's interesting that it works ok with this hub.

Keep us posted. I've had one of those hubs built into a wheel for a couple of years now, but haven't used it, so I'd like to hear how it gets on with trail use.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Velobike said:


> I'd never measured the SRAM shifter for cable pull, so it's interesting that it works ok with this hub.
> 
> Keep us posted. I've had one of those hubs built into a wheel for a couple of years now, but haven't used it, so I'd like to hear how it gets on with trail use.


Just got back from some singletrack , other than being geared too low the bike was great, perfect shifts and having brakes which actually work made the ride alot of fun, I will change from 23 t cog to 20 tooth for sure, one thing I did was make sure the wheel was located as far forward as possible in the dropouts, this helped the handeling and ability to lift the front wheel alot, I am thinking about machining the dropouts even further forward since with these lower profile tires there is still alot of room.
As for shifter compatability, in first gear the the shifter chain is just completely tight ( cant be pulled out any more), second has the exact adjustment recomended by the instructions and third has just a bit of slack in the cable so I think I have it right and shifts were flawless.


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

Here is mine, slightly modified. On sale for $178. Tons of fun to ride at the beach. Im going to try some single track soon.


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

Where did you get the front chain ring? Are you spinning with that?


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Do you guys just put other legitimate bike manufacturer names on there to play pretend? Or what's the deal? Kind of reminds me of the guys who put decals all over their "muscle cars" or trucks, with parts that aren't even in it. 

Glad to see mod'ing is working out for some though.


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

Edoardo Bianchi is spinning is his grave. Fortunately his corpse is mounted to some freshly greased Campy bearings, so the spinning is nice and smooth.


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

SmooveP said:


> Edoardo Bianchi is spinning is his grave. Fortunately his corpse is mounted to some freshly greased Campy bearings, so the spinning is nice and smooth.


Maybe we could mod an old pair of Record hubs, mount them on CactusPete's bike, and Eduardo could be spinning and grinning......


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

cactuspete1972 said:


> Where did you get the front chain ring? Are you spinning with that?


My chainring is just a regular 22t ring. I modified a crank to bolt that ring there the big ring would go. It spins out on flats pretty easily.


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

sryanak said:


> Maybe we could mod an old pair of Record hubs, mount them on CactusPete's bike, and Eduardo could be spinning and grinning......


Already tried that. The hubs refused to work on the WalGoose. I mean they literally refused to work. They sat down on the side of the road, smoking cigarettes and drinking espressos.


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

duggus said:


> Do you guys just put other legitimate bike manufacturer names on there to play pretend? Or what's the deal? Kind of reminds me of the guys who put decals all over their "muscle cars" or trucks, with parts that aren't even in it.
> 
> Glad to see mod'ing is working out for some though.


I knew there would be someone griping about the Bianchi sticker. Its a joke. I don't think anyone will really think Bianchi makes a fat bike, this is supposed to be the humor in it.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I had a couple ideas for a rear suspension design for the beast. I wanted something that could use as much of the stock frame as possible. I came up with a design that doesn't need a pivot by the rear axle. To see if it worked, I busted out my boys erector set.

This is what I came up with:









Here it is in the "extended" posisition:









And "compressed":









The rear triangle is very similar to the design of my Yeti. The Yeti has a carbon flex point in the seat stay, I think this may be because of the amount of travel the Yeti has 5.75". But I feel that the steel beast frame would have enough flex naturally to not need a flex joint. In the erector set model, I didnt need a flex.

Here is the Yeti:









And as I side note I picked up this front brake setup for $35.
$20 for the caliper and lever and $15 for the rotor. All used, but functional:


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

This is getting to be the best thread on the forum. Keep it up...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I ordered my front disc hub today. And I started drilling on my front rim. My hole saw was duller than I thought, but it was enough for 1 wheel. I will need to get another for the rear. I broke way to many pilot bits on the front. I got all the holes drilled, now I just have some filing and dremeling to do to clean them up.

Heres a pic of where I am at so far:


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

blown240 said:


> I ordered my front disc hub today. And I started drilling on my front rim. My hole saw was duller than I thought, but it was enough for 1 wheel. I will need to get another for the rear. I broke way to many pilot bits on the front. I got all the holes drilled, now I just have some filing and dremeling to do to clean them up.
> 
> Heres a pic of where I am at so far:
> 
> View attachment 830493


Does that really save a lot of weight? What about the integrity of the rim? Are these rims steel or alloy?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The rims are alloy. Many people have drilled them this way with no issues. You just want to skip the areas where the valve stem and the rim seam are. Im not exactly sure on the weight savings, but I have heard is about a half pound when both wheels are done. Ill see when its done and I get the bike back together. Even if the weight savings aren't huge, I think the look is cool...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Lost 203g off the front by drilling 1.5" all around, with 1" on either side of the valve stem. Not doing it for weight, but for installing retro-reflective tape. Only did the front so far (estimate 406g for front & back, for 0.895 lbs.). 
Lost 1399g going to a Larry front, 323g going to a dh tube and 101g for their rim 'tape'. 
Total off the front (without adding the retro-reflective tape yet) 2,026g for 4.46 lbs..


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Canoe said:


> Not doing it for weight, but for installing retro-reflective tape.


What tape are you planning to use?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Same as used here
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/ri...nstall-best-practices-726473.html#post8292677
(don't know if the photos are still there. site has changed and it won't show me photos with the standard permissions. Wants permissions granted to google, facebook, twitter, etc., even though none of those store the photo)


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Cool! Thanks for the heads up! Ill be drilling mine pretty soon, and I like the look of this.

Nice job on the 4+ lbs drop on the front wheel, too. Im still running the stock setup, and look forward to losing the weight sometime!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I temporarily put my front wheel back together today. I have a new hub coming and when it gets here I will strip the paint off the rim, finish cleaning up the outside of the holes, and get a proper rim strip. I think I will go ahead and drill on either side of the rim seam too. I'll just make sure to no cut the actual seam.

Front rim drilling and new tube took .6 lbs off bike. Current weight is 39.8 pounds.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

blown240 said:


> I temporarily put my front wheel back together today. I have a new hub coming and when it gets here I will strip the paint off the rim, finish cleaning up the outside of the holes, and get a proper rim strip.
> 
> Front rim drilling and new tube took .6 lbs off bike. Current weight is 39.8 pounds.


I found a chainsaw file worked great to take the burrs off the holes, I also used red dacron sail material for a rimstrip, light and strong.
Looking good !!


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Denisesewa said:


> I found a chainsaw file worked great to take the burrs off the holes, I also used red dacron sail material for a rimstrip, light and strong.
> Looking good !!


But the best thing possible is a hand deburring tool:


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

MiniTrail said:


> ^ you are better at gifs that that :lol:


Glad am I that you pointed that out! Shoulda used image search to begin with!

Voila!









The hooked blade follows your hand as you neatly slice the burrs from any inside curve.










Pity it doesn't work for an outside curve, but it does pretty good on straight edges as well. First time I saw one in use I knew one needed to be in my tool box.

The plastic handled ones do break after a while. And the blades do wear out. There are also some different blade types for special uses:


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Might as well cut the rim 'seam' too. Both of my wheels weren't even welded or bonded by any means other than the powdercoat. So essentially the seam isn't doing anything except for the far outside edges. 

I welded my seam for a more sturdy finished product...


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## Joe Motocross (May 23, 2013)

That is a super clean geared hub mod. Convenient how the caliper lined up.

I'm taking two Beasts with 8 speed shimano hubs with coaster brakes into the Utah desert in a couple of weeks. Should be a good test.



Denisesewa said:


> I received the Sturmey 3 speed last night so today went to work on getting it installed , Drilled the rear rim ( went with 1 1/4 instead of
> 1 1/2 holes like the front ) had to dissasemble another wheel to get the spokes , laced up the wheel cross 4 with 271mm spokes, fabricated the brake caliper mount and welded it on, I decided not to go with slotted mounts to accomadate wheel position when tightening the chain, I will instead just use different thickness mounting disc's/cupped washers since the Avids already use them and I used a tektro disc which has a rather wide contact area so minor adjustments will be no problem, I welded a cable mount for the 3 speed to the chain stay rather than use a clamp-on type as I dont want things going out of adjustment, also went with a 23 tooth cog instead of the 20 that comes with the hub, I think this might be too low but we'll see, all the cables kinda take away from the clean look the bike had but its really cool to have good brakes and I wont have to walk the couple of climbs I had to when it was single speed, The shifting is smooth and gear spacing feels appropriate.
> It shifts perfectly with the SRAM I-Motion grip shift. So far I like it ! Anyway, been a long day , I'll hit some singletrack in the morning.


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

Very impressed. How much do you think you have in it total?



Joe Motocross said:


> That is a super clean geared hub mod. Convenient how the caliper lined up.
> 
> I'm taking two Beasts with 8 speed shimano hubs with coaster brakes into the Utah desert in a couple of weeks. Should be a good test.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Just over $500 but keep in mind I already had the cranks, gears, brakes, headset, stem, bars, seat and post,pedals , grips ect. I even had the touch-up paint on hand. so I spent $200 on the bike, $215 on the shifter and rear hub, $30 on the front hub and $90 on the tires and tubes, If I had to buy everything the bike wouldnt be worth it. But I wanted a project and this worked out really well for me.



cactuspete1972 said:


> Very impressed. How much do you think you have in it total?


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

Very nice, it looks pro. Took my Beast on the beach yesterday and rode a few miles. Definitely a workout even with a 22 tooth cog.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

My blue Beast arrived yesterday. Started greasing.


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## Solo-Rider (Sep 15, 2013)

I've always like the idea of owning a fat bike and seeing this bike on the net gave me the impression that this might be an economical way of giving a fat bikes a shot. However, it might be a good project bike if you have a lot of extra parts around. If not, then in my opinion, it's just not worth the effort.

Now that I see bikes direct is selling a fat bike at an awesome price. For myself this is a much better choice. At least, if I do something to that bike, it will be for customizing reasons.

The beast looked like a value, but after all the time and effort just to make rideable, and including the total cost to make the beast fully functional. It's not worth my time.

To each, it's own.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

I'd have to agree with you , especially if you dont want to work on one or have the parts on hand, Motobecane was once a top line manufacture ( not sure about that now ) but its still a great deal, Aluminum frame and even the low spected bike has hydrolic disc brakes , I have a set of Tektros and I'd say they compare to Avid juicy 
3's and actually work better than the low end Shimano's I've had.
Looks like the Walgoose is dead !
Those prices are for " Pre Order though so who knows how long the wait will be.
Nice find !!
Save Up To 60% Off Fat Bikes and Fat Mountain Bicycles from bikesdirect.com



Solo-Rider said:


> I've always like the idea of owning a fat bike and seeing this bike on the net gave me the impression that this might be an economical way of giving a fat bikes a shot. However, it might be a good project bike if you have a lot of extra parts around. If not, then in my opinion, it's just not worth the effort.
> 
> Now that I see bikes direct is selling a fat bike at an awesome price. For myself this is a much better choice. At least, if I do something to that bike, it will be for customizing reasons.
> 
> ...


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Denisesewa said:


> \
> Looks like the Walgoose is dead !\


No, not for everyone. I love cruising my FatGoose around, enjoy the attention it gets, and it is the perfect ride to keep up with my 6 year old daughter. I haven't taken it on any serious trails, and I won't. No, not because its a Walgoose, but simply because I have a 5.5" FS ride for ripping the serious stuff. I cant speak for everyone, but I love the 'Goose - the $325 I have in mine brings me cheap entertainment!

These Moto-B fat bikes are alot like the Walgoose - a great starting point to get someone into fat bikes. It will make a great beginning platform for those who must have hand brakes and gearing. Are the MBs really competition to a $2700 Moonlander? No.

I also have a Schwinn Orange Krate repro in the garage - is it also dead because it isn't the real thing (or because I didn't pay several thousand dollars for it)? It makes me happy too.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Well, I may have mistated that a bit, I have no regrets building mine but I do think with the MB being priced this low many would-be wal-gooser's will opt to spend the extra $ .
Nice Krate Mosquito !!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I agree the Walgoose is far from dead. I have 2 very nice full suspension bikes, a Yeti and an Intense. Those bikes are done and ride great. But right now the Beast is a fun project to play around with and have a ton of fun while doing it!

Now if you want a fatbike that doesnt require any work to start enjoying it. Then the MB is for sure a great deal!


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Denisesewa said:


> Nice Krate Mosquito !!


Thanks! Its a fun ride! :thumbsup:


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

blown240 said:


> Now if you want a fatbike that doesnt require any work to start enjoying it. Then the MB is for sure a great deal.


I definitely agree. No doubt in my mind the MB is far more solid ride out of the box than the 'Goose. Shamefully, my FatGoose demands a little attention every second or third ride.

I wonder when we will see a thread about the cheap upgrading of the MBs? Again, its a great base to begin with cheaply! Wonder if you can get the $20 bumper-to-bumper warranty like the Walgoose?? Now THAT would be a seller!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got my new front hub today, so I stripped the wheel down and finished drilling the holes in the rim.

The drilled rim weighs 967 grams. But then I started to strip the paint, i got the outside of the rim about 75% striped of paint. The rim now weighs 929 grams!?! This blew my mind! Could there really be close to a half pound of paint on the rims alone?

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the rest of the paint off of the outside of the rim, and then I'll take some off the inside too. Most likely just down the center.

Here are some pics and weighs:

Stock spokes are 6.5 grams each
Stock spoke nipples are .8 grams each

Stock rim strip verses a 75mm Surly:

Stock rim strip weighs 81.4 grams
Surly 75mm rim strip weighs 97.8 grams










Here is the new front hub verses the stock front hub:

New hub is aluminum, with a disc mount. Its the cheapest one the right size on Amazon - 393.7 grams
Stock hub weighs (properly greased) 296.3 grams










and a pic of the rim as it is right now:


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

blown240 said:


> Could there really be close to a half pound of paint on the rims alone?


Lead paint ??

But isn't that actually 40g? That would be 0.1 lb .... So maybe 0.25 lb total for both wheels. Does seem heavy - but I don't know what paint should weigh.


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

Took the Beast on some single track yesterday and was pleasantly surprised. Much faster than I thought it would be, I did a 6 mile section in 45 minutes, usually takes me 40 minutes on my conventional full suspension mountain bike. I ran about 15 psi in both tires but I think it would perform better around 10 psi. The beast felt like a beast at first until I got used to the weight. Coaster brakes were sketchy, I really had to anticipate a few seconds in advance when I wanted to brake. Getting the crank arms parallel to the ground before going down hill was imperative or I would end up in an awkward position trying to brake. The weight and gyroscopic inertia of the wheels actually helped the bike climb short hills and eat up roots and logs. It felt more like riding an animal than a bike, like a fat goat that wanted to run and didn't care it had a fat ass. The longer steeper climbs were a challenge, I had to walk the bike twice up some hills, but that was only because of pedal strikes that made me loose my momentum. I am running a 22 tooth rear cog instead of the stock 18 tooth. A 23 tooth would probably be even better but I don't want to buy a bigger chain. In conclusion the bike performs very well for $200 bucks. If this bike was 10 lbs lighter and had disc brakes It would be perfect, like a Surly.


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

I had changed my mind about getting a Walgoose (no-go)...and when the BD fatbikes hit,that cemented the nix. But it looks like the BD fat is selling out...and if they don't restock at the time I decide to start-up, i'm gettin' a 'Goose.
It's just a matter of cost for the mods and parts availability.
...Anybody been keeping up with the multi-speed and brake mods?
...Are most parts needed still around?


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

I'm not sure what you mean by ' kEEPING UP WITH"
I've finished mine and most of the info is on the last four pages of this thread Starts on page 18, I havnt seen anyone pull off a derailiur setup for gears yet, I'm happy with my 3 speed and hydrolic brakes




zarr said:


> I had changed my mind about getting a Walgoose (no-go)...and when the BD fatbikes hit,that cemented the nix. But it looks like the BD fat is selling out...and if they don't restock at the time I decide to start-up, i'm gettin' a 'Goose.
> It's just a matter of cost for the mods and parts availability.
> ...Anybody been keeping up with the multi-speed and brake mods?
> ...Are most parts needed still around?


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## cactuspete1972 (Nov 13, 2010)

They are on sale right now for $172 color red. 
26" Mongoose Beast Oversized All Terrain Bike, 26" Mongoose Bike, Mongoose Mens Bike


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Mosquito1 said:


> Lead paint ??
> 
> But isn't that actually 40g? That would be 0.1 lb .... So maybe 0.25 lb total for both wheels. Does seem heavy - but I don't know what paint should weigh.


Mosquito - This is how I figured the weight. So far I have stripped the paint from about 3/4 of the outside if the rim and have removed 40g. So say its 50g total for the outside, and 50g for the inside, times 2 rims, thats 200g. So a bit under a haf pound. Too get all the paint off though would require a chemical dip. I bet a radiator shop would do it cheap...



Denisesewa said:


> I havnt seen anyone pull off a derailiur setup for gears yet, I'm happy with my 3 speed and hydrolic brakes


As soon as my front brake and wheel are done, I am going to start working on a derailiur setup with an 8 speed cassette. Ill post my results!


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

When I started figuring out a derailiur setup I felt there would be clearance issue between the chain and tire in the lower gears along with enough chainline offset to warrant a front chain guide , this was before putting on the vee rubber which gives a bit more clearance but at that point I had decided to go with the sturmey 3 speed so didnt work on it any further. I can see a 5 speed cassette working without too much issue. Anyway, Reliability without worrying about chain jumping was what I was after.
Perhaps running a 10 speed cassette and chain but only using some of the cogs would work better?
Looking forward to seeing how you pull it off ( and I'm sure you will  )



blown240 said:


> As soon as my front brake and wheel are done, I am going to start working on a derailiur setup with an 8 speed cassette. Ill post my results!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks! With my front chainring setup I think ill have enough clearance between the chain and tire. Plus, I am widening the rear spacing to about 190mm. I have a cassette with a 42t low gear, from an old project. Im going to try to make that one work, but I'm not sure I will be able to. 22t chainring with a 42t cog and I'll be able to climb trees!:eekster:


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## zarr (Feb 14, 2008)

Denisesewa said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by ' kEEPING UP WITH"
> I've finished mine and most of the info is on the last four pages of this thread Starts on page 18, I havnt seen anyone pull off a derailiur setup for gears yet, I'm happy with my 3 speed and hydrolic brakes


Thank You for that Denisesewa.
I began considering a Beast when they first came out, but I decided to wait.I was investing money in other bike projects that I placed before the Beast project,so I was away from following up the threads. I just thought to ask to find out from fellow forum members, so I decided to ask (talk) along with reading the threads.you can see my entries early in the Beast threads. Just decided at this time to continue with yet another subject in my list of bike builds...and further feed my bike build addiction.LOL
Good to be back on board.Gonna take awhile to finish up though...just one more direction.
Z


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

Denisesewa said:


> I havnt seen anyone pull off a derailiur setup for gears yet


Very nice job on your bike.

I did a 3x8 hybrid geared using the Stumey CS-RF3 part and a custom 16-34 cassette. Had already welded on bosses for canti brakes, if doing again would go the disc route. 
Welded up a back rack as well that was a pain as I change my mind on from 170mm to 135mm rear spacing so had to mod both the rack and bike. Will try to get some pics up otherwise it didn't happen.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

linear said:


> Very nice job on your bike.
> 
> Will try to get some pics up otherwise it didn't happen.


Cool, I'd like to see it.
Thanks for the comps !


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

My less beastly bike will be 7 speed with dérailleur. I'm cutting a plate that will either weld or bolt on to accomplish this. Hoping to be the first... But things move slower in Hawaii!


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

chopsmitty said:


> But things move slower in Hawaii!


As well they should


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## slow (Jun 25, 2009)

Denisesewa said:


> If anyone is interested in doing the front disc conversion here is a link to the hub, you will need shorter spokes in the 256 to 258mm range.
> Amazon.com: Wheel Master Front Alloy Hub - 36H, 3/8" Bolt-On, Disc 135mm, Loose Ball, Black: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> There is a sealed bearing version for about $10 more. BTW, spoke length calculators dont work accurately for these rims due to the wide pattern , I had more threads rolled on mine and shortened them. It might be possible to add 5mm thick washers under the nipples but ??? , I have used 2mm thick aluminum rivet backup washers in the past with no problems to effectivly shorten spokes. ( I know, kinda mickey mouse )
> I originally tried to lace them up Cross 4 but the spokes are too short for that. If I'm super lucky I'll be able to go cross 4 on the Sturmey 3 speed hub since the flanges are really large and closer together. we'll see when it gets here.


Do you know if this hub has front or rear disc spacing?


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

slow said:


> Do you know if this hub has front or rear disc spacing?


 Its front , 10.5mm from the disc mount surface to the outside of the axle nut and did not require anything weird when I fabricated the bracket and welded it on, I used a regular Avid adapter .


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got a bunch of stuff done tonight!

Finished striping the paint off the outside of my rim, and took about half the paint off the inside. I got the rim down to 899.9 grams!!!



















Then I got the wheel built up. I was able to use the original spokes by doing a reverse spiral pattern. Plus it looks sweet. I used a 75mm Surly rims trip backed by a layer of duct tape. Then I put in a standard 26x2.5 tube. I mounted the 203mm rotor, but I need to get some proper rotor bolts.





































Also, earlier I stopped by my local industrial hardware store and bought the parts to make the lower pivot for my rear suspension design:





































I also came up with an idea for a linkage fork, but thats gonna have to wait till I get more done...


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

*Hybrid Gearing*



Denisesewa said:


> Cool, I'd like to see it.
> Thanks for the comps !


It still needs a bit of detail work, only had the hub for a week, but here are a few photos.









Oversized rack









Cassette view shows stud welded in for rack mount and also increased thickness of dropout from 4mm to 6mm, put in a stop on non-drive side.









Rear view showing narrowed rear end and non-matching paint.









Side view of beast showing brake cable routing through seat post and stem, could be a 1st !!!









Rearview wheel offset and more non-matching paint, most likely not a 1st here.

May upgrade from electrical tape for cable routing.

Total upgrade cost so far about $75, have a lot of parts on hand. The seatpost is 420mm made from an old cutdown post and some 1 1/8th top tube.


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Nice work !!! I found that Dupli-color " perfect Match " paint which is designed for use with a clear topcoat , # BFM0379 " Redfire pearl metalic" is a great match for the red, just dont use a clearcoat.
I am sure you could find a close match in that same paint for the blue . Availible at
O-Riley's and other auto parts stores. 
Are you getting any chain rub on the tire?


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

Looks like this thread is pretty slow?



Denisesewa said:


> Nice work !!! I found that Dupli-color " perfect Match " paint... I am sure you could find a close match in that same paint for the blue . Availible at O-Riley's and other auto parts stores.


Thanks, I did go to O-Riley and Advance auto stores both carry same brand. I can go lighter or darker, pretty close.



Denisesewa said:


> Are you getting *any* chain rub on the tire?


Yes, that was the plan to let it start to come in contact in gear2 and rub in gear1. You can see it in the side view shots where the gloss of the tire is dulled. I am running pretty high pressure 18.5#, these tires do fatten up with pressure. I don't see it as an issue others may, really no plan to go with bigger tires anyway these things are 4.7 @ rated pressure. I did make a CAD drawing of chain line for the 8 positions, gear 6 gives a straight line.

How are the V rubber tires on pavement as far as rolling resistance. Is it a good tread pattern for that?


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

The v-rubber seems better all around, probably due to lots less spinning mass, they are also lower profile and a bit narrower, might not be fair of me to judge since I did alot of changes at the same time I mounted the v-rubber , the center rib in the original tires is probably a better design for street, but the weight--------:madman:





Those polished wheels look awesome, should have done that when I had mine apart.


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

Denisesewa said:


> The v-rubber seems better all around, probably due to lots less spinning mass, they are also lower profile and a bit narrower, might not be fair of me to judge since I did alot of changes at the same time I mounted the v-rubber , the center rib in the original tires is probably a better design for street, but the weight--------:madman:
> 
> Those polished wheels look awesome, should have done that when I had mine apart.


They are heavy and even at zero pressure those side walls are stiff. I have yet to experiment with lower pressure, but thats where better tire will help big time...

His wheels did polish up nice+
---------------------------
Update: Went ahead and ordered a pair of Vrubber Missions as they had free shipping going on, so for $75 I can improve this beast


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## hardly_stuntworthy (Sep 4, 2007)

Wow that is looking sweet, amazing what a little attention to detail and some spare time can amount to. Watching with some interest now.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks for the compliment! Also, thanks Denisesewa for the PM'd info.

Small update tonight. I got my disc mount done. Tomorrow, when the paint dries ill put the wheel and caliper back on. The metal on these bikes welds really nice.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Its nice having a front brake!


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

Looks good but, did you see this I posted earlier? 
"Dupli-color " perfect Match " paint which is designed for use with a clear topcoat , # BFM0379 " Redfire pearl metalic" is a great match for the red, just dont use a clearcoat."


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ya, but I'm going to repaint it another color when Im done changing it. So a few black areas is fine for now. Thanks though!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Not sure yet. Maybe red metal flake.


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

blown240 said:


> Small update tonight. I got my disc mount done. Tomorrow, when the paint dries ill put the wheel and caliper back on. The metal on these bikes welds really nice.


Nice job on the weld and brake, really looks like a big disc. May need to do this as I bought a 2nd Beast this time red as that was on sale, guess I enjoyed the process. Will keep the blue one more like a cargo/errand bike, may add fenders who knows. I changed to treking bars last night, nice day so I took it out to the beach. So many people ask questions about the bike!


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

^^^^ Grand Haven?!


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## SLOPE (Jun 25, 2004)

Where are the updates!!!

I can't wait any longer.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

SLOPE said:


> Where are the updates!!!
> 
> I can't wait any longer.


You mean something like this?


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

I didn't notice this at first but at Interbike the new SNOWSHOE tire was mounted to a Mongoose rim.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Ha, good eye AC/BC


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got my fork mounted tonight!


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

blown240 said:


> I got my fork mounted tonight!


That looks awesome! Hows the function? When are you trying it out??


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks! It works pretty good just peddling around the neighborhood. going down curbs etc. I need to get the brake mount done, and see how bad the brake dive is. I may have to do a floating brake...


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

So I ordered up a Beast this morning on a whim after reading through this thread..

Im out with a shoulder injury so I thought it would be fun to mess around on and tow my son around in his little trailer..currently my only bike is a very expensive Giant Reign XO that I cant really leave chained up anywhere when we go on cruises...

In my parts bin I have a few pairs of old square taper cranks..the takeoff bars and stem from my reign..I ordered the threadless adapter so I will stick that on when I get it..

Planning on drilling the rims and swapping tubes..may pick up some new rubber if I can find them for cheap.. (links would be appreciated) 

This may be a stupid question but is there a reason people arnt running a chain tensioner with a front derailleur?? I have a few extras laying around and I would think it would allow for plenty of range..

If not I have a 30t front chainring I will try with the stock cog..

will post some pics when I get it going..


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

We provide cycling enthusiasts with the finest components and gear, from the best brands, at the lowest possible prices and deliver it faster than anyone else.

Tire link ^^^

I went with the Internal geared hub, simple, clean, nothing hanging down, It will take a bit of fabrication to move a front derailiur out far enough to reach the chainrings , the only real fabrication I did was to weld on a cable stop and disc brake tabs, the rest was just changing parts and drilling holes , the vee rubber made a huge differance in weight and handeling, Highly recommend.


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

Sweet!!

Ordered up the tires!

going to mash the single speed for now..once I kill the hub maybe I will go the route you did...as of now this is mostly going to be for messing around on..the trails around here are long climbs followed by gnarly rocky descents..not really fatbike friendly..but who knows..maybe I will park my 160mm travel 7k$ Reign to go rigid haha


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## Denisesewa (Aug 8, 2013)

wydopen said:


> Sweet!!
> 
> Ordered up the tires!
> 
> going to mash the single speed for now..once I kill the hub maybe I will go the route you did...as of now this is mostly going to be for messing around on..the trails around here are long climbs followed by gnarly rocky descents..not really fatbike friendly..but who knows..maybe I will park my 160mm travel 7k$ Reign to go rigid haha


 Kinda funny, I stripped my ( lower end ) Reign and built up a Maverick ML7 with the parts for riding the ski slopes, really nice bike but since I built a full rigid Felt niner a year ago I've only ridden it once, I dont really miss the suspension due to the niner being ultra light , the beast will get the most use once the snow fly's.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

wydopen said:


> ...This may be a stupid question but is there a reason people arnt running a chain tensioner with a front derailleur?? I have a few extras laying around and I would think it would allow for plenty of range...


The distance of the chainrings from the seat tube is much greater than normal bikes and most front derailleurs don't have enough range. You need to fabricate or buy an adapter to offset the derailleur far enough out.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Denisesewa said:


> It will take a bit of fabrication to move a front derailiur out far enough to reach the chainrings





Velobike said:


> The distance of the chainrings from the seat tube is much greater than normal bikes and most front derailleurs don't have enough range. You need to fabricate or buy an adapter to offset the derailleur far enough out.


The simple thing to do would be to get a :Problem Solvers Direct Mount Adapter









$40, but all versions currently available. I like that it gets you a "high clamp" or "bottom swing" derailer - old school style that works way better (swings up and out) than the low clamp styles (swing down and out -duh?).


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

Velobike said:


> The distance of the chainrings from the seat tube is much greater than normal bikes and most front derailleurs don't have enough range. You need to fabricate or buy an adapter to offset the derailleur far enough out.


It is a pretty good distance as I was looking at it this morning. Will be adding a front derailleur to the red bike I'm working on. It may look odd so far out from the seat tube as that is a wide BB. Widened a none disk hub to 180mm for the back end this time. Plenty of tire/chain clearance.


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

can anyone confirm the seatpost is 28.6?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Yup its 28.6


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

Thanks!!

Dont know why but I cant wait until thursday when it shows up!! Maybe its the fact that I've been off the trails for a couple weeks and I'm going through withdrawals..going to mod it asap and see how it works on the beach..


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

wydopen said:


> Thanks!!
> 
> Dont know why but I cant wait until thursday when it shows up!! Maybe its the fact that I've been off the trails for a couple weeks and I'm going through withdrawals..going to mod it asap and see how it works on the beach..


Good luck on the mods, hope the bike arrives in good shape and on time. Sounds like you have a plan, parts and tires on order already. Those are some heavy tires that come with the bike, I had one that weighed in at 3045, guess I was lucky! My first reaction was that I really wanted some gears and it took a little time getting used to the weight. I did fab/modify a front derailleur this morning so the 2nd beast is ready to go, once the paint dries a bit. Have fun...


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

It arrived last night in fairly decent condition..some paint chips but I'm not concerned with that..going to paint it anyways...

built it up quickly to ride around the driveway..thing is a tank!

stripped it all down and now I'm having second thoughts on drilling the rims after feeling them w/o tires...they are surprisingly light..I will prob do it anyways just for the cool factor...

Once I pulled off the crank arms I realized how terrible the bottom bracket is...cant even turn the spindle with my fingers w/o the crank arm on..going to pull bb apart and see whats going on in there..



linear said:


> Good luck on the mods, hope the bike arrives in good shape and on time. Sounds like you have a plan, parts and tires on order already. Those are some heavy tires that come with the bike, I had one that weighed in at 3045, guess I was lucky! My first reaction was that I really wanted some gears and it took a little time getting used to the weight. I did fab/modify a front derailleur this morning so the 2nd beast is ready to go, once the paint dries a bit. Have fun...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The bottom brackets are all too tight when new. Same for front hub and usually the headset. 

If your going for light weight, then strip the paint off the rims, its surprisingly heavy. I got my front rim down to 899g. 

HAVE FUN!!


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

wydopen said:


> It arrived last night in fairly decent condition..some paint chips but I'm not concerned with that..going to paint it anyways...
> 
> built it up quickly to ride around the driveway..thing is a tank!
> 
> ...


Yes, the assembly is quite something, had a talk with Pacific Cycle last friday and told them that the people over there must be quite strong. My theory is that food is not made available unless they torque the s--- out of any part. Also felt that I would be willing to pay more if they just sent a box on unassembled parts as it would save time. Was still undecided on the 2nd bike if I would move forward until I called Pacific. That went well so I started friday night on the bike with the welding, torch, and cutting moving into the point of *no return*.

Got the basics done on bike 2 3x8 gears and rim brakes again as that was on hand. If disc brakes happen it will go to a 200mm hub in the back, just sounds like a good round number, 20mm out on both sides from the original 160mm. Took a photo but it looks a bit washed out from the sun.









Nice day so I adjusted the seat and will head out to the sand dunes / old ski hill area in town for a ride. Good luck with the project...


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

got it all greased up and stuck the new parts on to test out..feels pretty good..going to ride it a bit and repaint/drill rims when I have time


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Great start! Keep it up!

Its funny, I have a Yeti 575 and an Intense M1 and though they both ride much better, Im having more fun building the beast! Maybe its because both of those bikes are done...


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

That was a quick wydopen, should work good with the trailer.


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## vtsteevo (Jan 19, 2010)

Hey guys, I don't have an old square taper crankset in my toolbox. Can someone recommend one that I could buy? I was looking at the Shimano Alivio:
Shimano Alivio FC-M410 Compact Crank Set > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

Wondering if anyone is running it and if there are any issues with the chain line when using the chainring that comes with the Alivio crankset.

I am open to other suggestions though...

Thanks!


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

Well I took the beast on its maiden voyage..

Definitely a learning curve riding that thing..there is so much gyroscopic forces on the wheels it really takes allot of bar input..

All was going well until I forgot about the coaster brake when manualing a log...stomped the brake on accident right when my rear wheel was going over the log and went otb right onto my freshly dislocated shoulder haha..:madman:

Once you get it moving uphill it really wants to go..I powered a few hills I didnt think I would make...

The near 90deg headangle definitely dosnt inspire confidence on the descents..think Im going to have my buddy cut the head tube off and slacken it out to about 67deg..If you really want to ride the thing it will need a disk brake for sure..too much interia for the wimpy coaster..I had a few sketchy moments...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That Alivio should work. I think any crank that is considered super low profile will work. For $40 you need to decide if its worth the gamble. Its a pretty safe bet though!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got my rear hub widened tonight.

I started with a regular Deore 9 speed casette hub with disc mount, 36 hole. I stripped it down to the shell and cut in half using a tubing cutter to get a straight cut.










Then I found this aluminum BMX axle peg. It came in a box of random stuff I got from my dad. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole thru it the long way and then, using a big bolt, I chucked it into my drill press:










I used a grinder with a flap disc to turn the peg down while it spun in the drill press:










I only shaved it down a little so that it would be a tight press fit into the hub halfs. It was TIGHT! I had to press it in with my vise.










A shot of paint and it looks great. If it ends up not being tight enough it can always be TIG welded, but I really doubt that will happen.










Next was the axle:

I used the axle from the hub and another from an extra hub I had. I tapped 1 end of each to accept a thread in screw. Once I got them threaded together, I welded them solid and ground down my weld.

I reassembled the hub and it came together perfectly!! Now I had a long bolt on axle with 190mm spacing. I just need to get some axle nuts that fit it.























































For a casette, I got out an old project I made. Its a 11-42 8 Speed. Basicatly I made a 34t accept a chainring.



















Next I need to get another 203mm rotor for the rear.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

blown240 said:


> I got my rear hub widened tonight.
> 
> ....
> 
> For a casette, I got out an old project I made. Its a 11-42 8 Speed. Basicatly I made a 34t accept a chainring...


Great project. Looks like all the interesting stuff is being done to the Beast these days.

I'd be interested to see how you fitted the chainring to the cassette.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks! Here is a link to the 42t cog project:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/diy-42t-cassette-cog-842237.html


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Thanks, ingenious.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Last night I got a few things done;

I widened my rear dropouts to 190mm and then bent them so that they were parallel again. Then I got an old derailer hanger from my Yeti and shaved it a bit to make a hanger for the Beast. I also mocked up the rear hub with the cassette and a derailer. And I drilled my rear rim.

I am going to have to run a chain guide in the front and some sort of tensioner in the rear. I may just go the old school route of an arm with a spring holding the derailer back.

HIgh gear is 22-11, which is about the same as the beast has stock. Low gear is 22-42, which should allow me to climb trees! :shock:

Here are some pics:


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## linear (Jun 6, 2009)

Looks like some good activity on the build:thumbsup:

A while back I put an MTB triple on the blue bike giving me an effective 22T/46T low with the geared hub, it was quite low. Tried some climbs out of a ravine, good traction but way too slow, couldn't keep the front end from boobing up.

Currently working on the big foot print rear tire 7" tread width for a sand specific bike. Kind of a re-creation of the Roger Cowles triple rim/tire 6-pack, different design approach though. Now I need to build up a test platform to try out the thing! Miles of sand to ride on around here, but I want good road performance as well.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

blown240 said:


> Low gear is 22-42, which should allow me to climb trees! :shock:


You can make extra money hauling cars out of the ditch in the winter.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got a bit done tonight.

I removed the paint from the rear rim, and drilled it like the front. I got the rear wheel laced up (stock spokes, 3 cross), installed a lighter tube, the cassette, and got the wheels on the bike. Also I got the rear brake lever and shifter on.

Current weight is 47.4. Still 1 pound lighter than stock!

Next is to get a rear rotor, cables, chain guide, and chain tensioner.

Its starting to look like a legit mountain bike!


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## Rcksqrl (Aug 29, 2013)

holy crap you guys are awesome! I dont quite have the bike fab skills you all do! The mods make it seem like it would be worth going that route...(if ya have the skills)

keep up the good work!


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## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

took the beast out onto the beach yesterday...as unimpressed as I was with the ride on dirt I was surprised how well it worked on the sand..

I was able to float across the deep stuff no problem..even got a little berm track going..had some fun..a slacker head angle would help even in the soft stuff..front end wanted to knife on slower turns..the 32/18 was a little tall but doable..

I even made some custom barefoot pedals by grinding the tread off the stockers and adding some old surfboard tailpad..


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Last night I got the rear disc brake setup. At this point it a fully functional mountain bike!

Here are pics of the chain guide, the rear brake, and some overall shots. Time to start planning the rear suspension!
































































I also got this rear shock. Im hoping for about 6" rear travel. This shock has a 2 1/2 inch stroke, so 6" should be obtainable as long as the wheel doesnt hit the seat tube. I am going to raise the bottom bracket a bit also, I've hit the ring a couple times on big logs...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I took the Beast out for its first ride in the dirt with the new setup. It rides great, and I got it nice and dirty!

Here are a couple pics and a video:



















Fatbike at Talbert Part - YouTube


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

niiiiice.


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## vtsteevo (Jan 19, 2010)

Had to go out and buy one after reading this thread! I am having a tough time removing the drive (right) side bottom bracket cup. I am using a crescent wrench and turning it clockwise, but it just keeps on slipping because there just isn't much of a surface for the wrench to grip on between the cup and the frame. Any tips on getting this thing removed?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

one side is reverse threaded, but I can remember which on right now. Alot of these bikes have cross threaded bottom brackets.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Drive side is always backwards (left-hand threaded).


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## vtsteevo (Jan 19, 2010)

Yep, thats why i am turning it clockwise to loosen. The wrench just keeps slipping. Someone really screwed this thing on at the factory!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

vtsteevo said:


> Had to go out and buy one after reading this thread! I am having a tough time removing the drive (right) side bottom bracket cup. I am using a crescent wrench and turning it clockwise, but it just keeps on slipping because there just isn't much of a surface for the wrench to grip on between the cup and the frame. Any tips on getting this thing removed?


Shoulda used a metric crescent wrench.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If you want to sacrifice it, you could try a hacksaw and make a notch in it. Put a chissel/hammer up against the notch and a few short swings should loosen it enough to get the cresent on a bit. Could also try holding the cresent tight against the BB by clamping it. If they are steel cups in an aluminum frame, try heating it a bit with propane torch. If it's an aluminum cup in a steel frame (other than being a stupid design choice), throw some ice cubes into the bottombracket.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

...another sacrifice scenario, but you can put a pipe wrench on it, it will likely completely screw the thing up, but you can get a lot of torque with that wrench. I've had to do it one time before. Sucked, but it worked.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I thought about the pipe wrench too, mostly because they are kinda fun. Completely destroyed a stuck seat post the other day with one. My biggest concern is the lack of gripping area. If a cresent wrench is falling off, the pipe wrench would probably fall off too.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

A pipe wrench tightens as you twist it around anything you're trying to turn, where a crescent wrench doesn't, but you're right, not much area to grip on to.


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## GrayJay (May 16, 2011)

vtsteevo said:


> Had to go out and buy one after reading this thread! I am having a tough time removing the drive (right) side bottom bracket cup. I am using a crescent wrench and turning it clockwise, but it just keeps on slipping because there just isn't much of a surface for the wrench to grip on between the cup and the frame. Any tips on getting this thing removed?


See the BB fixed cup removal tricks at; 
Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups

Unless you are replacing the entire BB, there is not a huge reason to remove the fixed cup. Just remove the spindle and bearings and you can clean and re-pack the fixed cup in-place on the frame.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

nice tip. thanks, sheldon.


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## Rcksqrl (Aug 29, 2013)

If it's already toast, weld a nut on te end that you can get a box end wrench on..... Then grind weld off/replace nut


Sent from magic wish granting phone


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I started on the rear suspension tonight.

This is where I knew I had to commit...










I wanted to at least get the main lower pivot done.

So first I cleaned the front triangle where the welds were:










Then after measuring 100 times i welded on the tabs for the pivot. I may gusset these at some point. Then I welded the pivot tube to the rear triangle. And then I got it bolted together. Next step is to cut off the seat stay and add pivots to them.

Ill let the pics do the talking:





































I ended here for tonight. Hopefuilly I get some time with it tomorrow...


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Loving the suspension mod. 

To remove a drive side cup that's stuck, there's an easy bodge.

Get a big bolt that just fits through the hole. 

Push it through from the inside and thread a nut on it. 

Then tighten the nut as much as you can. 

Once it's on tight, keep tightening because it is now gripping the cup. The tightening direction is the right direction for loosening the cup and you can get a serious size wrench on the nut.

There's not many cups that will stay stuck with this method.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

that is sooooo crazy. i love it! maybe weld a web between the chainstays while you are at it. mine seems flexy-er than i would like.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got some more done tonight...

First I cut off the seat stays so that I could get an idea of MAX travel. It looks like 6.5 inches is safe:



















Then I finshed up the chainstays where the pivot will be:




























Then I made the link ends for the seat stays:



















Here are the 2 pieces loosely bolted together:










Then I started mocking up the shock mount and main pivot:



















Next will be to weld on the main pivot and start figuring out the upper links!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Based on this, it looks like you're doing a faux-bar link? Should be able to chop the top chainstays right in front the crossbar, weld on an some links, cross brace it and go to town. If you have a local bike co-op, they might have a junk wallyworld bike with a faux-bar that you can scavenge linkage parts from. The rear triangle on some of those are usually steel, even though the front triangle is aluminum. I guess if they make at least 50% of the frame aluminum, they can claim "aluminum construction"


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I wish we had a bike co-op around here. But year, upper links is just about all it needs. They need to be about 11 inches long, from shock to chain stay, to get the full travel, I doubt any wallyworld bikes have links like that. Ive got some aluminum bar left over from the fork, so I will use that. Its 1"x3/4" so it should be plenty beefy.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Greetings, I joined here because I like the beast builds and info currently being posted. I intend to purchase a Beast soon and build it over the winter. As soon as I find most of the parts I will need for my build I will order a bike. Hopefully I can find all the pieces before they sell out.







is there an adapter available to use those cranks or will I need a new bb?

My first intentonal part to collect is the megadrive sprocket the next will be a properly sized hub and some ridiculously long crank arms. then I will be ready.

Don


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Tonight I finalized my geometry and did a test run with some scrap steel. Here's a pic:[br][br]







[br][br]And a video of it in action:[br][br]


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## Tibor (Nov 22, 2011)

:eekster:

thats so cool...

seems like a mongoose can get something pretty usefull...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And its EPIC!!!!!!!!

Im so stoked right now!

Its got a full 7" of rear travel. I took a 15 inch drop from my neighbors yard to mine, sitting down, it no absorbed the hit no problem, and still had plenty of travel left!

I had to ditch the seat post QR and put a new collar on so the bolt would be in front, but thats about it. OH, ITS 53 LBS!!!! only 4.5lbs heavier than stock though.

PICS:



















Now I need to give it a paint job and a name. Im thinking FATSWORTH, since it kinda looks like an Ellsworth design...


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

It needs an awesome name. 

What's more beastly than Beast?


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## SocratesDiedTrolling (Sep 15, 2012)

That thing is awesome. Manuel Beastly would be proud.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

Well done, sir. Call it "The Kitchen Sink".


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

blown240 said:


> OH, ITS 53 LBS!!!! only 4.5lbs heavier than stock though.


Carbon Fiber Seatpost

Did you change out the fork tubes? They look like you polished them.

My name suggestion, "Lunar Rover"


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

"Faster Than it Looks"


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I haven't changed the fork tubes yet. That will save 3 pounds. I was really hopeing for 40lbs. I'm not sure if thats doable though with this frame/fork.

Im thinking of buying a milling vise for my drill press. That was I can mill out some of the material on the links.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

that is wicked cool.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here is a video my buddy took of me and the new bike from yesterdays ride:


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## JPaul (Sep 18, 2010)

Great stuff blown240!

Nice to see it in action/you having fun with it on the trails.

Was a treat to watch your progress. Impressive how quickly you got to a rideable FS fatbike!

Cheers,
Paul


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

Awesome work! Fun ride, cool trails, sweet bike!


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## Fuzzwardo (Oct 16, 2013)

very impressive.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

I wanna see you huck that thing off a picnic table...


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## outskirtscustoms (Jan 8, 2011)

You could call it the Super Beast. Like the Rob Zombie song!


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## Saw (Mar 24, 2012)

"Flexi-Fat" perhaps? That is one bodacious Beast, for sure! Envy and respect.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Im doing a build on one of my best friends Beast. He got his a couple weeks before I for mine, and did a few simple mods as soon as he got it. Changed bars, stem, cranks, seat, removed kickstand and chain guard, and put a suspension seat post on it.

Now its time to take it to another level!

The plan is paint, disc brakes, and gears for now. Some lightening too.

I got his front wheel drilled and reassembled:










Time to get to work:










The next few steps were a bit more intense. My buddy got a choppers US disc/freewheel hub, a 6 speed freewheel, and a 180mm rotor. I had to add a spacer and move the axle towards the drive side. It was just BARELY long enough to fit. Ill probably look out for some 3/8 all thread to make him a proper length axle.










Next was to widen and offset the frame to fit the slightly wider choppers US hub. I only had to widen it about 10mm, but I wanted as much of that on the drive side, so that the chain would clear the tire in all 6 rear gears.

Since he has already been striping the paint off the bike, I busted out the MAP gas! Gotta love getting a frame glowing red!



















The results were perfect!



















Nest step was to make the rear disc brake mount:



















And a 10x1mm nut used as a derailed hanger. I notched the dropout to get the nut closer to the cogs and to make it more solid:










Thats about all I got done tonight. Next step is to remove the paint and drill the rear wheel. I took the tire off and found that they didn't use the correct rim strip from the factory. I got a bit of a laugh out of this:










The plan is to have a working rear derailer and rear disc brake for a ride this weekend. That should be doable!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Keep it coming...


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## GoPlayOutside (Aug 19, 2009)

blown240 said:


> Thats about all I got done tonight. Next step is to remove the paint and drill the rear wheel. I took the tire off and found that they didn't use the correct rim strip from the factory. I got a bit of a laugh out of this:


Are you taking the wheel apart to remove the paint.. or is there an easier way?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

GoPlayOutside said:


> Are you taking the wheel apart to remove the paint.. or is there an easier way?


The paint is really difficult to take off. Its surprisingly thick. Im changing the hub, and drilling the wheels anyway, so it was a no brainer on this one. Even if I wasn't doing all that I would have probably taken the wheel apart.


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## summersjr (Oct 30, 2013)

Does anyone know where to get a set of the Identiti fork bosses. I really need these and any post I find that references a vendor is great, but they are all out of stock ... ;-(


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

i got mine from universal cycles. maybe call them and see when they think they could get them to you. here's the link again with their phone number and catalog number.
Universal Cycles -- Identiti Clamp-On Brake Mounts


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## Jim Diablo (Nov 1, 2013)

Hi Everyone. I have been following this thread for months now and I am now ready to begin some upgrades to my Beast. Could you guys tell me if this crank set will work?

Amazon.com: Dimension 170mm Cross Crank Arm Set 110/74 Black, Includes Bolts: Sports & Outdoors

I have a 32 t ring and a bash guard, but I am confused about the spindle length. I know if there is anyone that knows it would be on this form. Love the work all of you have done on your bikes and all the info I have learned following here.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I hate telling someone that it will work for sure, but that crankset SHOULD be totally fine.

You need to make sure your ring and bash guard are the same 110mm bolt pattern

I also saw this one, cheaper and comes with rings, different bolt pattern too:

Amazon.com: Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset (Black, 170-mm 42/32/22T 7/8 Speed): Sports & Outdoors


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## Jim Diablo (Nov 1, 2013)

Thanks blown240. My ring is 74mm bdc and bash guard is 110 bdc. If I didn't already have those on hand I would jump on the one you posted. Really appreciate your input. Thank you.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ive gotten more done on my buddy Jeff's bike. The rear wheel is now drilled with a 6 speed freewheel and a disc brake. We went for a 10 mile dirt ride today. Both bikes performed great, but this one needs a front brake to really be able to push it.

Here are some build pics:

Wheels:










Cable Guides:



















Rear Disc:










Gears:










The Bike:










Next for this bike is to finish stripping off the paint, clear coating it, and then the front brake.


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## outskirtscustoms (Jan 8, 2011)

Just curious I am thinking of using that same hub on mine and I was wondering if the flange diameter is the same as the stock hub? Will the stock spokes work on the new hub?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

stock spokes work, but they stick about 2mm out from the nipple on the inside. You will need to grind them down a bit.

FWIW, these hubs aren't amazing. I had to adjust the cones, and the flanges were not lined up correctly. The spoke holes were not offset. I was able to adjust it though, because these hubs are just pressed together.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

...This one's for You, blown 240:

Atomic Zombie's Bicycle Builder's Bonanza
By Brad Graham, Kathy McGowan

This book available used and cheap on Amazon.com. Couldn't get the link to work. Thanks for keeping this thread interesting. Amazon.com: Shimano 7/8 Speed Alivio Mountain Bicycle Crankset - Square Taper - FC-M410: Sports & Outdoors This another cheap triple and maybe lighter than the above Acera one? I'm trying to figure out that and which Problem Solvers direct mount adapter to use for front derailer on my beast.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I wonder if Walmart had any idea of the frenzy of creativity they were about to unlease on the unsuspecting fatbike world? 

Unintended consequences are always interesting. 

Edit: That's interesting. I didn't make a link to Walmart, but there it is. What's going on?


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## vtsteevo (Jan 19, 2010)

This is a the crankset I used to replace the stock boat anchors. Only issue is the chain line. I used the 32 ring with a spacer, but the chain line is still off. It doesn't bother me because this bike won't get many miles, but for those that want a perfect chainline you may need to get some longer bolts and more spacers.



dudeist said:


> ...This one's for You, blown 240:
> 
> Atomic Zombie's Bicycle Builder's Bonanza
> By Brad Graham, Kathy McGowan
> ...


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## pesettles (Oct 26, 2013)

What did you clean the paint off of the wheels with? They look great! Are you gonna coat them with anything?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I used a grinder mounted paint stripping wheel. It a messy, dusty, pain in the rear. Not going to clear coat them. They are aluminum and I'll just clean them up every now and then.


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## Timpanogos (Jun 26, 2009)

*Fiber Fix*

Have any of you who have welded brake calipers or anything else onto this frame considered Fiber Fix tape? I wonder if I could just wrap that stuff around a caliper and the fork/chainstay (if/when I actually get a Beast). The maker says it's 100 times stronger than duct tape and hardens like steel. Maybe it could also be wrapped around existing welds to reinforce them. It can be sanded and painted. What do you think?

FiberFix Official Site

They cut handlebars in two places and fixed them:









Here's the video: FiberFix Bike Test!!! - YouTube

The inventor is a BYU student, which obviously give a lot of credence. Go Cougars!


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Timpanogos said:


> Have any of you who have welded brake calipers or anything else onto this frame considered Fiber Fix tape? ...
> 
> They cut handlebars in two places and fixed them...


I can't wait for Drew Diller's FiberFix frame - wait till he sees this


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Velobike said:


> I can't wait for Drew Diller's FiberFix frame - wait till he sees this


haha!


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## Timpanogos (Jun 26, 2009)

I had that very thought. How many rolls of Fiber Fix would it take.... I think would use toilet paper rolls as the form.


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

well i guess turn over your computer to see this


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## flatfendershop (Jan 7, 2012)

liquidboarder2k4 said:


> well i guess turn over your computer to see this


You mean to tell us, of all the things there is to learn on MTBR, you still put helium in your fat bike tires? :nono:


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## FATALBERT333 (Oct 30, 2013)

so. i think the most you can do to get the BEAST to it lightest. would be these steps ???
1= 26x3.8 tires
2= 26x3.0 tubes
3= Aluminum seat post
4= Aluminum handlebars
5= Aluminum neck
6= Aluminum cranks
7= Lighter seat
8= Drill out the rims

did i leave anything out ???

heres mine Green & wifes White


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## Darkstar3.14 (Oct 30, 2013)

plus +









equals =


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

FATALBERT333 said:


> so. i think the most you can do to get the BEAST to it lightest. would be these steps ???
> 1= 26x3.8 tires
> 2= 26x3.0 tubes
> 3= Aluminum seat post
> ...


Thats most of it. You can also take the paint off the rims for 1/4 pound. And the rear coaster brake is pig heavy, but if you ditch that you have to add some kind of hand brake, so it may not be worth it. You don't have to necessarily go 3.8 on the tires, I would look around and see whats the lightest for the $$$ and for the type of riding you want to do.


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## summersjr (Oct 30, 2013)

*Human Electric Hybrid BEAST!*















Here's our (HEH) BEAST. Still need to get some front brakes on it, but the coaster seems to do just fine until I get it figured out. Has 500 Watt Front Brushless Direct drive motor. Goes about 27 MPH top Speed with no pedaling ... Can't keep up with the motor with the stock gearing, anyway. This is a BLAST to ride and really gets a lot of attention - especially when I blow by hobbyists riding $5000 bikes in the bike lanes around Ann Arbor.
See more on facebook www.facebook.com/humanelectrichybrids.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

summersjr said:


> Here's our (HEH) BEAST. Still need to get some front brakes on it, but the coaster seems to do just fine until I get it figured out. Has 500 Watt Front Brushless Direct drive motor. Goes about 27 MPH top Speed with no pedaling ... Can't keep up with the motor with the stock gearing, anyway. This is a BLAST to ride and really gets a lot of attention - especially when I blow by hobbyists riding $5000 bikes in the bike lanes around Ann Arbor.
> See more on facebook www.facebook.com/humanelectrichybrids.


That looks like a ton of fun! Be sure to grease everything ....


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## pesettles (Oct 26, 2013)

What size holes did you drill?


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## summersjr (Oct 30, 2013)

What size holes did we drill for the spokes?...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'll assume you mean the rims to lighten them up. Lots of options. This link has some good pictures of what people did with holes and rimstrips. I love the scotish kilt and the reflective strips.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-rims-cutouts-show-us-your-mods-764661.html


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I did 1-1/2 inch holes. On 2 bikes now they seem fine. I hit my rear rim hard enough to bend it riding up steps and the holes don't show any signs of being an issue.


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## vtsteevo (Jan 19, 2010)

Just an FYI to anyone who is thinking about picking up a second one, or on the fence about the first one, walmart.com is having a special right now on them, any color, for $149.


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## hikernks (Aug 21, 2012)

so. i think the most you can do to get the BEAST to it lightest. would be these steps ???
1= 26x3.8 tires
2= 26x3.0 tubes
3= Aluminum seat post
4= Aluminum handlebars
5= Aluminum neck
6= Aluminum cranks
7= Lighter seat
8= Drill out the rims

did i leave anything out ???


If you want a frame to hang parts on, look on CL and eBay for a used Pugs frame, fork, and Large Marge rims. I almost guarantee if you look hard enough, you can score a frame set for ~$300. From everything I've read, you're going to need to replace the fork on this anyways, due to a serious lack of QC. 

Frame and fork $300
LM rims for $100
Disc brakes for $75

Everything else you were going to replace anyways, so you might as well spend the extra money, and get a solid, reliable frame. Otherwise you're going to spend $500 on a craptastic Wal-Mart bike and still have a craptastic Wal-Mart bike. 

Wal-Mart bike you're going to change out most of the components on anyways: $200

Surly Pugsley and wheels you're going to build up: $475

That seems like a no-brainer to me. I understand having a tinker project, but you might as well spend the money and have a decent bike at the end of it.

**Edit** I've got a set of used Endos and Large Marge rims sitting in my closet doing nothing. I almost guarantee I can build up a SS Pugs for less than $600 just by raiding the parts bin... Might have to take that challenge!


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

hikernks said:


> Surly Pugsley and wheels you're going to build up: $475


Bring it on. Any current CL listings from any city on the US will do. Post a list of links where I can buy all the parts to build a rideable Pugsley for $475 or less. $20 shipping for any part that isn't within 60 miles of my house. You have 48 hours.


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## hikernks (Aug 21, 2012)

Frame and fork - current bid is $227.42

Surly Pugsly Frame and Fork 2012 | eBay

Here's my ad for LM rims and used Endos - $150 for the rims, and shipping costs ($20 in the CONUS) for the tires.

FS - Large Marge Rims and Endomorph Tires

Total cost for frame, fork, rims, and tires: $397.42

Time it took to find that was less than 5 minutes.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I just found something almost as entertaining as drinking, almost.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Ha ha ha haaaaaaa. That's awesome. An auction with 40 hours left, and your own ad that doesn't include the tires.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

Plus, bars, brakes, cassette, seatpost, saddle, stem, derailleur, cranks, pedals, etc, etc.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

vtsteevo said:


> Just an FYI to anyone who is thinking about picking up a second one, or on the fence about the first one, walmart.com is having a special right now on them, any color, for $149.


just wandering through looking for reviews and whatnot. that sale is over. must have been just a one day deal.


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## cnjalex (Nov 30, 2013)

Philphine said:


> just wandering through looking for reviews and whatnot. that sale is over. must have been just a one day deal.


Yes, I believe it was a black friday sale. I picked one up because of the price, and now I'm reading through his thread to find out how to make it a bit more rideable.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

cnjalex said:


> Yes, I believe it was a black friday sale. I picked one up because of the price, and now I'm reading through his thread to find out how to make it a bit more rideable.


Minimum required is to grease it up. From there I highly suggest changing the rear gear to one a bit bigger. From there it's up to you, you can go mild to wild!


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## cnjalex (Nov 30, 2013)

blown240 said:


> Minimum required is to grease it up. From there I highly suggest changing the rear gear to one a bit bigger. From there it's up to you, you can go mild to wild!


Gotcha! Do you have a link to a specific part? Looking at hikernks' list above, there seem to be quite a few parts available to lighten the load.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I don't have a specific link, but if you have a local bike shop, you should be able to take the gear off and take it with you. Its a basic single speed coaster brake gear. They should be about $10. I think if you get one thats 2 teeth bigger, you can use the stock chain. If its more than 2 teeth bigger you will need to get a longer chain, or possibly add links to your chain.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/jeep-bike-build-776332.html


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## willapajames (Dec 18, 2005)

Any idea what the geometry on those things is? I'm 6'5, I'm guessing it would be way too cramped for me. I would only get one of these to thrash as a beach bike (a very flat beach that is).


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

with a longer setback seatpost, you'd have a good beach cruiser. make sure you keep the tires at a nice low pressure.

you'll probably end up wanting to change the gearing to something lower, though.


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## Bulldog (Jan 13, 2004)

Agreed. The bars are high enough that my knees stay below them. Even better when I ran my 5.5" bmx bars!


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## k.b. (Dec 28, 2006)

cnjalex said:


> Gotcha! Do you have a link to a specific part? Looking at hikernks' list above, there seem to be quite a few parts available to lighten the load.


For $149 with free shipping I ordered one for my daughter. It took me 3 days to read thru all the pages of this thread. There were a few maybe's and ifs that were never confirmed but it appears that the main (Level 1) upgrades are:
•	reassembly with good grease/proper torque
•	changing the rear gear
•	axle is a weak point
•	tires and tubes(26x3.00)
•	lightening up seat, post(28.6), stem, bars

I'm lazy so a link for the correct rear gear would be appreciated. Is this the axle replacement link?
Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.
Devist8tors a possible a tire replacement
evilbay is a source for lighter parts and aliexpress is a china connection for cheap carbon parts but it takes 2 - 4 weeks.


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## puchcobra (Nov 6, 2013)

China Post is always right on time usually 2 weeks. I saw $260 winter bike pants going for $40 from China. I won't ship to China but I do trust them to deliver on time to me.
Check out these prices for winter gear 
Winter face mask | eBay


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Just Ordered mine.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

No, k.b., I don't think that bb works. The stock one is ok for normal cruiser use, but gets dirty and wet easily.
Tommi Sea 122 mm Sealed Bottom Bracket
This $40 sealed bb fits the Beast. I added 8mm of spacers to drive side for chain and crank clearance.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The sealed BB is the way to go, but the guy at choppers US said the one he has will fit a beast. 

Is interesting, I went into the choppers US store a while back and they have beasts for sale there. I wonder if they order them from walmart and then mark them up?


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

What was their price on the Beast? Were they stock, or had they been upgraded?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I didn't get a price, but they were totally stock, even had the cardboard with the features in the wheel.


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## cnjalex (Nov 30, 2013)

blown240 said:


> I got some more done tonight...
> 
> Then I made the link ends for the seat stays:


I'm loving the Tiger Army sticker! This thread inspired me to buy a Beast. Got it on sale for $149 during Wally World's black Friday sale.


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## k.b. (Dec 28, 2006)

dudeist said:


> No, k.b., I don't think that bb works. The stock one is ok for normal cruiser use, but gets dirty and wet easily.
> Tommi Sea 122 mm Sealed Bottom Bracket
> This $40 sealed bb fits the Beast. I added 8mm of spacers to drive side for chain and crank clearance.


Wow thanks for the link. Sealed BB for sure. Now I am thinking perhaps BB plus new crank arms/chain ring! The slippery slope begins...

So I went to purchase the sealed BB for $40, then the shipping came to an additional $40...Yikes!

BiketiresUnlimited has Vee Rubber Mission Fat Bike Tire 26 x 4.0 Inch for $33.59 each.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

cnjalex said:


> I'm loving the Tiger Army sticker! This thread inspired me to buy a Beast. Got it on sale for $149 during Wally World's black Friday sale.


TA is one of my fav bands. I played upright bass in a psychobilly band for years. Now I have kids and a fat bike..... Im happier now....


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

blown240 said:


> PICS:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


i like this

i thought i had looked at all of this thread, but i guess i stopped somewhere along the way and started looking at the end later. i missed this build somehow. this is why a cheap fat bike is appealing to me. i don't know if i can come up with something this nice and worked out, but sooner or later the beast is gonna meet my sawzall.


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## FATALBERT333 (Oct 30, 2013)

to Philphine ....Ohhh Yaaaa !!! take that sawzall & go at it, dont forget to keep us all posted , you should post it also on the UGV Forum (UNDERGROUNDVELO)


Philphine said:


> i like this
> 
> i thought i had looked at all of this thread, but i guess i stopped somewhere along the way and started looking at the end later. i missed this build somehow. this is why a cheap fat bike is appealing to me. i don't know if i can come up with something this nice and worked out, but sooner or later the beast is gonna meet my sawzall.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

CruJonez said:


> Thanks guys, I chose the Howitzer BB and crank because I already had the crank lying around and they are tough as nails. The BB needed minimal modification to work with the frame, basically I replaced the sealed bearings with some slightly narrower ones because the insert on the stock bearings was too wide for the frame width. I have a plan to add 8spd setup but it is down the road a bit. I will need a side roller setup to keep the chain out of the tire in the lowest gear, it seemed to clear 1-7 fine running a spacer behind the cassette on the 8/9 hub. My tire profile is slightly narrower on the BFR rims, measuring 3.8" with the micrometer, so that helps. I used an axle bolt on derailleur hanger for my test fit. I plan to use the other side sliding dropout from the set I used to build the brake mount. They were fairly easy to modify to bolt onto the huge dropouts on the back of this frame. I did have to open up the rear dropouts a bit with a die grinder to get the 12mm axle to slide in. It was fairly time consuming to do that and keep them the same on both sides of the frame.


CruJonez,

So for the howitzer mod. Did you use the stock howitzer external cups and just press in new bearing cartridges? Or did you use a different external cup altogether?

Thanks ahead for the info.


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

I ordered a Beast on the Black Friday deal...still waiting for it to come in. In the meantime I happened to snag a TommiSea frame off Craigslist for $40 w/ the fork. I'm kind of thinking of transferring everything from the beast over. I think it will work without giving me too much of a headache. Any thoughts? I think I'd need to source a longer chain and maybe some spacers to get the crank/rear lined up properly.

Other than that, I'll probably just switch to a different saddle, drill the wheels and be done for a bit....potentially switching tires and tubes for more weight savings


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

possibly...but in the end I will probably have two fat tire bikes in my garage. I can do without wheelies for a while until I source the parts I need to build a second bike


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

mine came saturday. picked it up on the way to work so the only rides have been a few circles of the maintenance shop, and a ride around my small front yard before i came in the house (got home around 11pm) since we got a couple inches of snow. 

it's missing the chain guard. i kinda thought maybe i got sent a return bike, but looking at the tabs for chain guard mounting, the paint in/around the screw holes looks unscratched like there was never one on it. it's a non issue for me though (unless i can get one of those deals where they send me a whole 'nother bike to replace it). i've already took a magic marker to it planning cuts, and checking my parts pile.

i'm not a mountain biker really (i ended up on this site following a lead for a part for a gravity bike), so i'll go back more to lurking and let y'all have at it.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Philphine said:


> ...ended up on this site following a lead for a part for a gravity bike...


A gravity bike with fat tyres? Don't lurk, post it up - this is a broad church.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

it may not be what you think. it's wasn't a downhill freeride type bike. i mean the 20" gravity bikes that were more based off bmx bikes. just regular size 20" wheels. i followed a lead to this site where someone was making an adapter to put a disc brake on a spin trispoke wheel a couple years back. it didn't pan out, but i still lurk here off and on.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Philphine said:


> it may not be what you think. it's wasn't a downhill freeride type bike. i mean the 20" gravity bikes that were more based off bmx bikes. just regular size 20" wheels. i followed a lead to this site where someone was making an adapter to put a disc brake on a spin trispoke wheel a couple years back. it didn't pan out, but i still lurk here off and on.


Keep us updated anyway! :thumbsup:


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Got mine yesterday and opened the snow covered box outside and draggged it into the house piece by piece. its not as heavy as i expected, I guess the fact that I ride mostly big tank bikes anyways this is not big change.

I despise the seat, it just looks wrong. I need a big fat saddle for it. Has anyone considered an oldschool MX style Bananna seat? Im gonna have fun with this.
Don


----------



## durtsurf (Jun 15, 2011)

*Mongoose fat bike*

I got one. Replaced the 18 tooth cog with a 22. Put on my own pedals. Put on a 45nrth husker du, vee tires snowshoe, and downhil 2.5 tubes. Total cost >$500, weight is a tiny bit under 40 pounds. I could save a lot more weight by swapping the seat, maybe the post, handlebars, stem, take off the kick stand and chain guard. But I think from here on it is a waste of money. I'll keep it at 40 pounds and when I get my real bike someday I can take the tires on to the new bike.
I have not ridden it yet with the new tires but did with the stock setup and it was very difficult to ride. The gearing was way to difficult. The 22 seems kind of ok and I am very fit. I think most people would need to do something different. Lots of walking up hills. The handling is very poor but we do have some weird snow conditions right now that I think is making the front end knife around more than normal. And I am hoping the news tires will make it handle better, and easier to pedal. The stock tires weight 6 pounds each. The ones I put on are about 3 pounds each. I'll post more after another ride or 2.


Larry Endomorph said:


> I started another thread ( http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/walmart-mongoose-beast-sucks-846569.html ) hoping that it would be about the bike itself and modifying the bike. It didn't work. I'm going to try again.
> 
> I knew what I was getting into, and I'm glad I bought my Beast. I'm not saying it is an awful bike. My premise is that the bike is close to unrideable in its stock form. It's way too heavy and the gearing is way too hard. The bike will be modified! This ought to be fun!
> 
> ...


----------



## durtsurf (Jun 15, 2011)

*pic*









durtsurf said:


> I got one. Replaced the 18 tooth cog with a 22. Put on my own pedals. Put on a 45nrth husker du, vee tires snowshoe, and downhil 2.5 tubes. Total cost >$500, weight is a tiny bit under 40 pounds. I could save a lot more weight by swapping the seat, maybe the post, handlebars, stem, take off the kick stand and chain guard. But I think from here on it is a waste of money. I'll keep it at 40 pounds and when I get my real bike someday I can take the tires on to the new bike.
> I have not ridden it yet with the new tires but did with the stock setup and it was very difficult to ride. The gearing was way to difficult. The 22 seems kind of ok and I am very fit. I think most people would need to do something different. Lots of walking up hills. The handling is very poor but we do have some weird snow conditions right now that I think is making the front end knife around more than normal. And I am hoping the news tires will make it handle better, and easier to pedal. The stock tires weight 6 pounds each. The ones I put on are about 3 pounds each. I'll post more after another ride or 2.


----------



## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Just to clarify:

"So I ordered a replacement spindle from Cycles U.S. Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S. and unfortunately, it's a no go. It's about a 1/2" shorter and the bearing races are about 1/8" further apart than the stock BB spindle on each side.
I installed some spacers on the fixed side of the BB when I installed it but have barely 2mm clearance on the drive side and the crank arm hits the frame if I put any real pressure on the left pedal."

The above from Jim Hanoonen on another Beast thread. Not entirely clear whether it could possibly work with some cranks with wide offsets [q factor] and shims/spacers/refacing/installed backward?


----------



## MoabiSlim (Apr 22, 2011)

Houndog45 said:


> I'm not new to upgrading Walgooses hahahahha ...
> 
> I must add that it now sports some Racing Ralphs
> and a brooks saddle...and bb7s.....


 That is freaking Rad, Dude! :thumbsup:


----------



## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Got a big old proper saddle for it. makes it look better... i dont know about easier to ride because its 4 degrees outside. I cannot get used to the coaster brake, I have not ridden a bike without a freewheel since I was 10 and 30+ years is a long time to get over. I think im going to have to throw some money at it.

Don


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

I tried to ride in the snow this morning since the temp got up to 20 and the wind died down. I had to stand on the pedals for every inch I moved. This bike will have gears as soon as possible. Someone gave me a stingray rear wheel a few months ago that has the spokes messed up so I dropped it off at my LBS to have the freewheel hub laced into my stock rear rim. I do not "need" brakes for riding around my flat boring yard but I would like them, Would anyone be willing to help contribute if I create a thread somewhere about all the possibilities for putting hand brakes on this thing?

Don


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

its a square tapered bottom bracket easiest thing to do is take an old crank that can be taken apart, take off the big ring/s and put on a very small ring and run it.... makes pedaling very easy


also brakes, i threw on a moonlander fork and laced in a rear disc hub and used it as my front wheel so i could have a disc brake


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

yea, I have a trek mountain bike for parts, it has like a 36tooth chainring. as soon as I get it back from the LHS I will be swapping it. I rode bmx without brakes till I was out of highschool and had a job allowing me to afford something nice. not sure If I have the skills anymore but rubbing a shoe on the front tire works. I might cut the brake bosses off the trek and try my luck at brazing. could I MIG it??? I have a nice hobart wire feed.
Don


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

No idea, welding is my next skill i want to learn... but if mig is strong enough then probably, or you could weld on disc brake mounts

remember the mongoose rim is a single wall with a bad weld, so putting pressure one the rim might not be too good


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ya you can totally mig it. The tubing on these bikes is really thick.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

liquidboarder2k4 said:


> No idea, welding is my next skill i want to learn... but if mig is strong enough then probably, or you could weld on disc brake mounts
> 
> remember the mongoose rim is a single wall with a bad weld, so putting pressure one the rim might not be too good


 Im not looking to do stoppies or anything like that, for me the coaster brake makes the bike unridable. My future dreams for the bike is a front hubmotor so if everything goes how I imagined it it will end up with front brakes eventually. When I was young I had a minibike that had a brake that just rubbed a metal plate on the tire and it work well enough to stop me.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

There have been several people who have put front catilever brakes on these bikes. You can get bolt on studs, or weld on your own. If I was going to weld on brake studs, and I had an old frame to cut them off of, I would cut a larger section of the old frame to weld on. Say an inch up and down from the stud and 1/2 inch wide. It wouldn't look as nice, but would be a nice reinforcement. You could probably do the same on the rear.

If your planning a front hub motor, many of those have a disc mount. Front disc brakes are a huge upgrade and actually easier to setup than a cantilever, since all you have to do is weld on a brake mount.


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## 1SPDBING (Mar 16, 2013)

Deleted


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

So my car's engine blew up on me yesterday and now have to rebuild it but who cares cause my Blue Beast came in today!! Park the car and build the beast is what I say. Going to first do all the easy mods everyone's done like tires, go tubless, change seat, bars, cranks and stem, etc. Then I'm going to re-lace the wheels with disc hubs and throw some BB7's on as well as put gears and make it into a 24 or 27 speed. I can't wait until spring to get one of the $500 Bike Direct Gravity fatbikes cause I want to ride this winter but come spring I'm going to get one of the Gravity bikes and then further mod and weld up the beast into a full suspension fatbike. I think I'm going to eventually also motorize it too with one of those 2 stroke Bikeberry china motors.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Hey guys... LOL, talk about determination, this guy has it.

New Build, 5 sp Chopper @ over 40+ mph


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## IceBergh (Nov 29, 2013)

I'm new to all this fat bike AND bike repair in general. I am very mechanical and a big DIY guy. Also, befitting of the goose...I am cheap. I have no parts bin available to me but am seeing many 26" 90's good old real mountain bikes on craigslist for free or like $20. My question is; Can I steal the triple cranks off and use the two smaller rings as a good crank option? Can I just bolt it on or do I have a learning curve about spacing and chain line issues. It sounds like I will only able to find a 22t for the back...do they make 24t that just fit right on. I love learning new things but bike repair has its own language and TLR's (three letter acronyms) I have some more questions but let's start with this area as I want to get riding it before I worry about the rotating mass.


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

IceBergh said:


> I'm new to all this fat bike AND bike repair in general. I am very mechanical and a big DIY guy. Also, befitting of the goose...I am cheap. I have no parts bin available to me but am seeing many 26" 90's good old real mountain bikes on craigslist for free or like $20. My question is; Can I steal the triple cranks off and use the two smaller rings as a good crank option? Can I just bolt it on or do I have a learning curve about spacing and chain line issues. It sounds like I will only able to find a 22t for the back...do they make 24t that just fit right on. I love learning new things but bike repair has its own language and TLR's (three letter acronyms) I have some more questions but let's start with this area as I want to get riding it before I worry about the rotating mass.


I found a nice triple crank for $20 on Craigslist and plan on running with that also. I was going to take off the big and small gear to just leave the 32tooth center. I haven't actually tried it yet though, because it required a different Bottom Bracket...which I found a nice one for $20 more on Craigslist also, just haven't fitted it yet


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Bicycle Repair Parts Scooter 3 Speed Sprocket Threaded Freewheel | eBay
Im doing the same thing. I have a trek 220 mtb that im stealing the cranks off of to give me gears. could not find an option for rear gears easily so I bought that off ebay... should almost fit without modifying frame.
Don


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

I should not be the go to guy on the Walbeast, but I wanted to share the parts I added.

This crank went right in. I removed the big ring and just run the small one. Amazon.com: Vuelta Corsa Comp 50/34 170Mm, Square Taper: Sports & Outdoors

This is the rear cog I chose, 22T. Amazon.com: Shimano SG-7C20 Nexus Sprocket (22T): Sports & Outdoors

From there I changed the seat and post (28.6mm I think?), pedals, a threadless stem adapter and stem, and I changed the bars and grips. I don't ride mine offroad much, definitely not hardcore, but I like the setup and have about $300 in the bike. Tons of fun and gets plenty of attention and chuckles!


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## cnjalex (Nov 30, 2013)

Mine is slowly coming along.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Hey Fellow Beat owners, I just got mine and starting to dream up some mods t make it my own, and was wondering all of you that have changed the crank set. can you use any square taper crank arms? or does it have to be single speed designed? or can you just use the middle ring?


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## cnjalex (Nov 30, 2013)

RC51BOY said:


> Hey Fellow Beat owners, I just got mine and starting to dream up some mods t make it my own, and was wondering all of you that have changed the crank set. can you use any square taper crank arms? or does it have to be single speed designed? or can you just use the middle ring?


I'll let someone else answer your question because I am newish to this bike, but I did ride and race an 06 RC51 for 5 years.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Nice cnjalex, I have a 02 and I don't race it, but its been my favorite bike! i love it!!!


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

wow, the tires weigh almost the same as the rear wheels!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Generally speaking any square taper crank that is considered low profile will work. You can take off rings and just run the center, or set it up with multiple gears. Just don't run the old 80s style cranks where the arm has a high profile out from the rings.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Thanks blown,I have been looking to update the cranks , and most bike shops around here are pretty negitive if you ask for help becase you bought a Walmart bike. 

Does anyone know why the rear is so dang heavy...my G/F just got a sun bicycle model crusher and its way lighter...seems like it has stainless spokes but that does not seem to be enough to be that noticeable( her bike is a fat tire too, sunlight tires are 3.5 to the goose's 4.0.)


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The tubes, tires and rear hub are really heavy on the beast. I would say the rear hub alone is 2-3 pounds.


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

after i cut out my rear hub i had it near my metal pile... and in the leaves i accidentally ran it over with my lawn mower... and the lawn mower won


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## IceBergh (Nov 29, 2013)

*super cheapo triple crank with 28T small and the stock 18T.*







I just slapped this on to try some gear ratios that I can actually ride in the snow. I will mod it later.


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## IceBergh (Nov 29, 2013)

*It was fun for a quick night loop around the block. I will go exploring Wednesday*








I can't even stand looking at that cheap seat


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Has anyone thought of going tubless?


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## slow (Jun 25, 2009)

Here's mine. It's even been raced, if not very successfully...

Salsa Enabler, Large Marge, BB7, On One Floaters. One stock rear hub has been killed. Had a replacement wheel in a few days though!


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## IceBergh (Nov 29, 2013)

Oh my
you are a real biker
I am just an old fat guy discovering how fun this should be. I rode by brothers Lynskey for about a mile and fell in love. This walgoose is not even close and I do not expect it to be. I took it for a short ride with the 28/18 gearing and it is just to tough in the snow for me. It looks like you are stock 36/18...really...in the snow? 
Question; did you change the fork just for an easy brake solution (bracket) or to solve that funny steering? I'm gonna pop a 20T on the back and try again.


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## slow (Jun 25, 2009)

IceBergh said:


> Oh my
> you are a real biker
> I am just an old fat guy discovering how fun this should be. I rode by brothers Lynskey for about a mile and fell in love. This walgoose is not even close and I do not expect it to be. I took it for a short ride with the 28/18 gearing and it is just to tough in the snow for me. It looks like you are stock 36/18...really...in the snow?
> Question; did you change the fork just for an easy brake solution (bracket) or to solve that funny steering? I'm gonna pop a 20T on the back and try again.


32x20, same as I run on my 29er SS. It's a bit too much on this pig though. I'm going to try a bigger cog soon.

I put the fork on for the brake and handlebar options. The steering just happens to be way better too! The HT angle is near 70 with this fork.


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## Cafn8 (Dec 17, 2013)

slow said:


> 32x20, same as I run on my 29er SS. It's a bit too much on this pig though. I'm going to try a bigger cog soon.
> 
> I put the fork on for the brake and handlebar options. The steering just happens to be way better too! The HT angle is near 70 with this fork.


Thanks for the info. I'm new here (just joined after reading this thread- yes, the whole thing) and I've been wondering about the enabler fork as an upgrade- not only for the brake tab, but also for the geometry, all the cool mounting points and the better QC. It just got a little harder to hang on to that Christmas bonus check.


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## Cafn8 (Dec 17, 2013)

Joe Motocross said:


> I had to pull the coaster brake lever off the hub and put it in a vice to bend it enough to line up properly.


Hey Joe,
How is this setup holding up? I'm considering a similar setup with a roller brake. If you were to do it again, would you do it the same, or would cold-setting the frame to an offset 135mm be a better idea?


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

Wow, I just got back from riding my Beast properly greased with 24f/18r gears and I must say it SUCKS. They really screwed up the geometry on this bike and the BB is way too far forward. Needs to be moved at least 2" back. I can't believe no one is complaining about the front tire hitting toes when pedaling and turning. And the steering absolutely sucks. I rode a pugsley that had no wheel flop. I have some Origin8 Devast8tor tires on order so hopefully that will help with the steering, otherwise I'll be chopping up the fork to lengthen it to get a 70 deg HT angle and also increasing the fork rake. I had huge plans for this bike, but now I don't know. I think I'll just do the minimal things to get it rideable and suffer riding it until I get a better bike frame built.


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## skankingbiker (Jan 15, 2010)

Devastators have major self-steer/induce wheel flop, IME.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

That's not good to hear. I guess reworking the front fork to get the geometry right will be in order then. Another thing that exacerbates the steering wheel flop on the Beast is the weight distribution. The BB and seat post are much farther forward and closer to the center of the bike than other fat bikes so it puts quite a bit more weight on the front wheel. Not good


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

skankingbiker said:


> Devastators have major self-steer/induce wheel flop, IME.


No they don't. They work extremely well on the Beast.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Yeah, hey, N8R, the bottom bracket is also very low. I'm considering a new fork that's taller to help with the low bb and steep head angle, but haven't figured what one to get yet.








This is my 12x150mm rear disc hub with 14-42t cobbled cassette- it works good with 32t single ring up front, but haven't been in deep snow yet, and stick to the milder trails.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

*new cranks*

Well, I learned the hard way and bought a set of FSA cranks on craigslist and took them home to find out the cogs were riveted, so decided to swap the set off my K2 Nissan mountain bike , but the the inner cog to gets romantic with the frame. So $40.00 down the tubes.

The Truviv seem to work, just not many turns on the lock down nut as I would like, but not too bad. Also, the BB was soooo tight, and I cant get it loose, need a special tool, so I am not riding it.







. here is a pic.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

dudeist said:


> Yeah, hey, N8R, the bottom bracket is also very low. I'm considering a new fork that's taller to help with the low bb and steep head angle, but haven't figured what one to get yet.


 Hey could you estimate how much taller fork? This could solve all my problems with one shot.
Don


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## skankingbiker (Jan 15, 2010)

StiHacka said:


> No they don't. They work extremely well on the Beast.


YMMV. I know several others have posted here that they experienced a high level of self-steer on these tires as well.


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## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

On my buddys mongoose the self steer with devastators is ridiculous, but on my pugsly, i get no self steer, 

anyway, they make a good cheap back tire


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The Devist8rs are fine if you get a longer fork. Once I changed the fork on mine the self steer went away.

Here is a shot of my bike next to another beast with a stock fork.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Has anyone figured out a definite replacement bottom bracket for the Beast?


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Tommi Sea 122 mm Sealed Bottom Bracket
This $40 sealed bb fits the Beast. I added 8mm of spacers to drive side for chain and crank clearance.[/QUOTE]from pg 27 this thread.

Seems to me the Beast fork is about 17" or 431mm axle to crown.

Fatbikes.com - Surly Moonlander Fork 447mm - I'm guessing would slacken the head angle about 1 degree and raise bb a little.

FatBikes.com Salsa Enabler rigid fork for 29er snow bike wheels 468mm but won't fit 4.7" tires - would slacken head angle maybe 2 degrees and raise bb 1/2"???

9:ZERO:7 (907) Aluminum Fork - 450 or 468mm depending on what frame and hub

The slippery slope steepens with every simoleon spent.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

I found a set of brandnew Kevlar Origin8 Devast8tor tires locally for $15 each so I canceled my Amazon order for them. I lucked out and got a set of the good light Kevlar bead ones and they have and actual weight each of 1600-1630 grams, I weighed them. Anyway, the Beast rides much better with them than the stock tires, way more supple. The wheel flop is still there but not as bad or annoying. Another good thing is the tires are 3/4" shorter so the front tire doesn't hit my toes nearly as much. Once I lengthen the fork the wheel flop and toe strike issues will be resolved. All in all, I'm a lot happier with the beast now just from swapping tires and it is ridable in the snow at least, can't feel wheel flop in the snow, just on pavement and grippy surfaces really. Weight is right at 40 lbs.


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## Taildragger (Mar 13, 2005)

Okay guys, what is the difference in the Beast and Brutus? Amazon had the Brutus for $169 shipped, so I got one on the way.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Im not sure of any difference ... Looks the same to me, but the Beast at WallyMart is cheaper now. Your $169 is a great price.

Link - Mongoose Brutus

Link - Mongoose Beast


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## Taildragger (Mar 13, 2005)

Not at $169,, it was a flash sale or whatever Amazon does. Still, what is different? Bars and stem??


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Yes - had to amend my reply when I noticed your price. 

Bikes look the same to me, other than the obvious color and graphic.


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## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

May have been mentioned before, but Mongoose bikes (mongoose.com) does not mention the Beast or Brutus anywhere. A search for either comes back empty.

Are they ashamed??


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Hey everyone, Ive been looking around online for info on fork length for the beast and I noticed that a lot of pictures if you look there seems to be different length forks on some of the bikes. Even one or two bikes posted here (but some have different tires on them) Did mongoose make a longer fork on the early bikes? or do the newer bikes have longer forks??? It coule also be shorter tires.
Don


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

https://i45.tinypic.com/2f0bvpj.jpg look at this

https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/f...4620t-mongoose-beast-modifications-test-5.jpg even fatalbert333's 2 bikes look like the fork is different bewteen the two.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I think they are all the same. It's just different camera angles make things look different.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

I have alot less self steer with the devist8ers than with the stock tires. The stock tires at 15psi on up feel fine. But below that they make the bike want to flop. I am now running devist8ers at 10psi and they feel great.

The devist8ers are shorter than the stock tires so that may be what makes the difference in steering feel. It could also be why some forks look longer than others.

As far as the difference between Beast and Brutus. A coworker bought a Brutus from amazon and it had a 32t chainring while my Beast has a 36t. Other than that it was just paint and stickers.


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## durtsurf (Jun 15, 2011)

So I put up some videos about my mongoose.
mongoose beast overview - YouTube


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

I just drilled the wheels! that was fun ans messy! what is everyone using to keep the tubes from pushing out through the holes?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ive got Surly rims trips with a layer of duct tape behind them. My buddy used the stock rim strips with duct tape. Both are working great.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I saw this on craigslist. Its an electric fat bike for $1600. But check out the front brake. Its got V brakes, with a guide over the tire to keep the cable from touching the tire. I wonder how well this works? It sure would be a cheaper way than a front disc and would probably be better than cantilevers.

Looks like the same tires as a Beast, maybe same rims too:


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

blown240, i'm wondering how your rear suspension is holding up, and how well the chopperus rear hub set up on your friends bike are working. both are things i'm more or less working toward.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

So far so good on both.


We have ridden everything from Snow, to sand, to hard packed trails. The rear suspension is great. The hub is holding up good, but he hasn't jumped the bike or anything like that. 

My only complaint is how heavy the bike is. His only complaint is that he is limited to a 6 speed freewheel. Usually its fine, but he could have used a lower gear when we were in the snow.

Ive actually thought about buying another beast. One just to see how light I can get it. Keep it rigid and single speed with hand brakes. But Ive got too many other projects right now.

I am actually working on a second fork for mine. This one has just over 8" of travel and has better geometry, so there shouldn't be much brake fade. I haven't really posted about it here, but will once its done.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

https://www.shopaholix.com/image/pr...ose-beast-mens-oversized-all-terrain-bike.jpg
Do you think these were drawings or pictures of actual bikes.


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

I think I am loosing my mind, I thought I saw someone post a site that had the Tommi Sea sealed bottom bracket for $40.00 and did not have the ridiculous $40.00 shipping charge.But then again I could be crazy.


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## 1SPDBING (Mar 16, 2013)

Ddd


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

The Tommisea BB is $39.99 w/ about $8 shipping from fatbeachbikes....I think you're going to 'fatsandbikes'....they have crazy high shipping


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

Figured I'd post my progress pics since I've had my bike for a few days:

Plain Jane wheels:


Drilled/Painted/Christmas Wrapped:


Mounted back on the Beast:


And my eventual goal...mounting them up on my Tommisea frame...still awaiting some repairs and parts for this one to be ride-worthy:


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

1SPDBING said:


> Why not get the YST sealed bearings? I think there 8$ plus some shipping.


It is not the BB cups that are a problem on the Beast, it is the gawd awful spindle that bends easily.

The fatbeachbikes web is one of the worst around, you have enter all your personal and CC details before seeing the shipping charge. Can anyone confirm they only charge $8 for shipping of their sealed BB?


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

I checked my email receipt...it was 10$, but I also bought their crank


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I have been working on a second fork for my Beast. I wanted something that was long travel, and had a better axle path than the last one I build. I learned a few things. The first one is I have officially taken it too far!

I got the fork done enough for a test ride. Once it was all said and done I was getting 9 inches of travel out of it. There are several problems with this:

1. Its too stinkin tall! With a Devist8r tire and 9 inches travel, the handle bars were at 49" from the ground. I could have removed about 3/4 of an inch worth of spacers, but it still would have been too tall.

2. Getting 9 inches of travel using a shock that only has 2 1/2 inches of stroke causes all sorts off odd things. The ratio was so big, that a tiny movement of shock travel resulted in a huge amount of fork travel. The fork actually had so much travel, that it would lock itself closed. I am calling it 9 inches because that is when the crown it the tire! A VERY BAD THING!!

3. The shock I am using is a low compression/low rebound tune with a high volume can. I have no idea what a low compression and low rebound mean, but I found that the shock didn't really ever get stiffer in travel. So once you were past the initial stiction (which is almost nothing) it moves thru the entire travel easily. It seems to me that I need something thats more progressive.

There are some good points too though:

1. Its BUTTERY SMOOTH. Its as smooth as my nice FOX fork on me regular MTB.

2. I can hit a 6" curb, head on, sitting down, and it soaks it up so well that you really dont feel the curb at all.

3. It looks pretty sweet.

4. The axle path is great, and there is almost no brake dive.

As it is right now, this fork is unsafe at any speed. Especially since the crown hits the tire. I am going to cut the travel back to 6". This will allow me to have a lot less leverage on the shock, and it will allow me to make the bike sit 2-3 inches lower at the bars. I will probably just shorten the links to accomplish this, maybe the legs too. It sucks to have to take it back to the drawing board so to speak, but I learned a lot, and the next version will be better.

At least we know now that there is suck a thing as too much travel. I used to think the more the better, but Im thinking differently now.

Head tube angle is 70 degrees in case anyone was curious.

Here are some pics:


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## RC51BOY (Dec 12, 2013)

Thanks BlacknBlue20, I ordered it up.


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## rawly old (Dec 23, 2013)

Let's see one of youse modify the beast into this. A woman just
rode this fat tadpole to the south pole.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Actually a fat trike is my next project. I plan to start it in the next week or so. It may end up morphing into a quad.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Really? A recumbent?


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

i'm not too interested in a trike, but i am trying to end up with a not too serious version of a lightfoot ranger bigfoot (i think that's it's name). i'm still working out the idea










i'm just the slightest bit further along than this, but this shows the planned wheelbase. since serious mountain bikes aren't really my thing i don't have a decent parts pile to dig parts out of. all i have are walmarty shocks and forks and i want to go upscale a little. if i get it done i'll post a more finished pic here, and the whole build will eventually end up on the freakbike forum if i get anywhere with it.


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Cheap changes*

I just got my beast and I need to keep costs to a minimum. I have just welded a 3/32" 26 tooth freewheel cog on to stock cog. I also installed aa older 175 mm crankset with a 3/32" 34 tooth chainring. I was thinking of milling the dropout up vertically which would make more bottom bracket drop and would slacken head and seat tube a bit I think. I am going to go for canti brakes in front 
where I live is mountainous and this gear still wasn't low enough. Now I have welded a 32 in rear to make two gears in back. A 26-32 rear and in front I have a 34-28. I can change gears by moving chain off cogs without moving rear wheel


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## rawly old (Dec 23, 2013)

She used a recumbent trike so the winds would blow her over.
she beat out 2 guy on bikes that had a week's head start on 
her to be the first to cycle to the south pole. And she is hot too.
My kinda gal.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

blown240 said:


> Actually a fat trike is my next project. I plan to start it in the next week or so. It may end up morphing into a quad.


Right on! Can't wait to see this. I've been thinking about making a quad too to have maximum floatation for snow. Seem's like I'm always one step behind you.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

I just got the rear disc brake and rear gears on my Beast. I copied Blown240's excellent 42T chainring/cassette modification and now have the gearing to not need a front derailure. 11-42 cassette is sweet. Thanks Blown240! Instead of bolting the chainring to a sprocket, I just TIG welded a steel chainring instead. A little heavier but easier. Did I mention I LOVE the 42 sproket? Awesome!!

Need to clean up the cables still. Next thing to do is get my front disc hub laced up, front disc mount welded on, and fork lengthened 3" or so. BB is too low and too far forward for me so I'm going to widen a BB from a donor frame and weld it behind the seat tube on top of the chainstays. No cutting the frame, just welding and gusseting it. This will make the BB 1.5" higher and 2" back which should be perfect. Call me crazy, but I'm shooting for a 14" BB height once I lengthen the fork too.

This thing is starting to ride like a fatbike proper now! When all's said and done, I'll only be into it $320 total.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Nice! I'm glad you were able to use my cassette idea. Having a 42 in the back is amazing! When I was climbing in the snow though, I was wishing I had a 50! I'll be curious to know how your rides with the bottom bracket mod. 

I'm planning my trike right now. Trying to decide if it's going to be rigid or full suspension. Not sure if I am capable of making it rigid! It's not going to be beast based though. I'm going to start it with my aluminum cruiser. I'll probably do my trike before I finish my 2nd linkage fork, I need a break from that project.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

If the budget allows for it I would definitely go FS on the trike. I'm glad I got the Beast cause it was a quick cheap way to get on a fatbike, but I think it's almost reached it's limit for me as far as modding. Better to build a trike/quad from the ground up. To save money I'll probly use high quality aluminum or chromoly donor bikes for their BB's, HT's, and tubing etc. but not base the quad/trike off their geometry. I'd design the frame from scratch.


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

scooterbee said:


> I just got my beast and I need to keep costs to a minimum. I have just welded a 3/32" 26 tooth freewheel cog on to stock cog. I also installed aa older 175 mm crankset with a 3/32" 34 tooth chainring. I was thinking of milling the dropout up vertically which would make more bottom bracket drop and would slacken head and seat tube a bit I think. I am going to go for canti brakes in front
> where I live is mountainous and this gear still wasn't low enough. Now I have welded a 32 in rear to make two gears in back. A 26-32 rear and in front I have a 34-28. I can change gears by moving chain off cogs without moving rear wheel


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## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

Have to say the beast is enjoying winter! But should have had a spare tube on hand!


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Wow. That's a nice paint color and decals. Excellent video production as well. 
Did You happen to notice what tires are on that red bike? They look like especially big deep knobs.


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## AKPowderhound (May 11, 2013)

dudeist said:


> Wow. That's a nice paint color and decals. Excellent video production as well.
> Did You happen to notice what tires are on that red bike? They look like especially big deep knobs.


Thanks, they were SurlyNate's.

Sorry here's a post of mine in the summer and the adjustments I made, still really enjoying the beast!...

#265


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

AtomicZombie - The Warrior Recumbent Tadpole Racing Trike

The above is the trike I want to build but with fat tire in back and fat 20" tires in front (if they make them). Unfortunately, I cannot weld but may ask around locally in Pittsburgh area to hire or work with welder on build. I would really only need welder to cut & weld the frame. The rest of build I could probably do. Plans are cheap and materials like square steel tubing is cheap as well.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

they wouldn't have an off road type tread (if that matters), but you could use the 20" rear rim/tires off a couple of the schwinn choppers that were out a while back.


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

I recently bought a Beast with one purpose in mind...riding on the local beach. I would love to have a new $3000 Fatbike but finances just are not there for "one more bike" so the $200 Beast sounded perfect...plus it should be fun as a project. So, I need to get it ridable for <$300. I would love to leave it box stock but most days we have a pretty strong wind blowing so it needs a gear for no wind, a strong head wind, and a strong downwind. I was going to get an 3 speed internal hub with a disc mount and use the stock rear rim...but (to save $) I am going to try a 3 chainring front crank first (I happen to already have an old take off square taper crank laying around - coast = $0). I am going to try leaving the SS hub with coaster break and just using an old Schwinn derailleur that bolts up to the axle nut to keep tension on the chain (coast = $0). I know this is fraught with issues of throwing the chain when breaking...I have read where some say this isn't a problem...even so I already have a braking plan...I also just happened to have a front fork, front wheel, and tube from a Pugsley project I worked on (coast =$0). Once I have this on I can will add a decent hydraulic front brake (guess what, I had an extra one laying around cost = $0). I have already bought and installed a threadless headset http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=151115298027&view=all&tid=1014803460005 (cost = $12.59) and I am working on swapping an extra stem I have for one that will work with this fork (hopefully cost = $0). And yes, I have an extra front handle bar laying around as well (cost = $0). I have already mounted the Beast front tire on the Surly Large Marge rim and it looks like it will work fine (the wheel will have a greater circumference with the narrower rim). So...my next modification is to add a front derailleur. I have a couple laying around but the big problem is the distance from the seat tube to the chainrings. Any ideas on how to get a FD to work? So far I'm thinking I could clamp an extra tube to the seattube and then mount a FD on this extra tube. This would be heavy and look like crap...and I don't know where I would get a clamp that would work...but I think it would work. Anybody have any ideas on the FD???? I would love something quick and easy (cheap)????

Thanks Beast people.


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

*3 Chainring Crank added*

Here are two pic of what I did....works great (no clearance issues on inner ring) but now I am in need of a front derailleur that will work...any ideas???


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

This may already be in this thread and I haven't found it...but can somebody point me to a front derailleur setup that will work with my Beast?

Thanks!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

There are a few options. One person cut a stem in half and used that to make an L shaped derailed mount. There is a problem solvers mount that moves the derailer out an inch or so, but requires a specific derailer. Your tube idea would work probably too,

How much rub is there in the small ring, and how much crank clearance is on the non drive side? You could get one of those derailers that are held on by the bottom bracket. That would give you a derailer and space your cranks out a bit. 

Good idea on the front wheel/brake. Your coaster brake with a derailer is probably going to be more of a pain than you think.


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## memi (Nov 14, 2011)

Beside front derailer, you need a chain tensioner in order to change the front gears and not have a loose chain, similar to single speed setup. Good luck.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

The Problem Solvers comes in 3 sizes and requires a direct mount derailer. I don't know which size would work.
The BB mount is called E-type derailer and is available cheap, but must be the right size also- not height adjustable. I believe it also needs an upper support to keep it from spinning, but that might be easier to Macguyver than the tube mount.
I have a Beast and have been here and on Undergroundvelo and Rat Rod bikes since the Beast's birth, and have not seen derailer or tensioner work with coaster brake yet.
The Choppers US rear hub has disc mount and freewheel mount for $30, though.
Also the Tommisea bb is nice for $40 and requires spacers on drive side which may help chainline.


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

dudeist said:


> The Choppers US rear hub has disc mount and freewheel mount for $30, though.


Can you put up a link to where this Choppers US rear hub with disc mount for $30 can be found...I am not seeing it.

Thanks.


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

I have a Shimano Alfine chain tensioner Product I would like to use (from a SS conversion I once ran) but it requires a hanger which the beast doesn't have. Any ideas on how to make it work on this frame?

I also have an old Schwinn RD I can use...it bolts up to the axle nut so it doesn't need a hanger...unless there is a quick easy "hanger" fix I'll go with the old Schwinn.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Wheel/Tire/Tube/Hub/Rim : Hubs/Wheel Parts - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.
Amazon.com: sun race index hanger plate: Sports & Outdoors


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

If you can weld: weld a 10x1 metric nut to where the derailer needs to bolt...

Heres the hub:
Std Rear Hub - FW/Disc BLK 36 - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.


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## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

would the wide hub work better?
Wide Hub - Freewheel/Disc BLK - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.
does this hub work with the original spokes?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Oops, your right, it's the wide one you want.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

blown240 said:


> stock spokes work, but they stick about 2mm out from the nipple on the inside. You will need to grind them down a bit.
> 
> FWIW, these hubs aren't amazing. I had to adjust the cones, and the flanges were not lined up correctly. The spoke holes were not offset. I was able to adjust it though, because these hubs are just pressed together.[/QUOTE
> Found this on page 26 this thread.
> If all the good info on these 32 pages was organized into 3 or 4 pages it would save lots of time.


----------



## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

thanks, 240 and dudeist.


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## COACHJBATES (Jan 6, 2014)

Out STanding


----------



## k.b. (Dec 28, 2006)

Here is another possibility for a bottom bracket 100mm x 66mm Chainline
Universal Cycles -- Truvativ Howitzer Team Bottom Bracket


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

k.b. said:


> Here is another possibility for a bottom bracket 100mm x 66mm Chainline
> Universal Cycles -- Truvativ Howitzer Team Bottom Bracket


I tried this one but was unable to make it work. The BB shell on the beast is 110mm wide. I think the howitzer BB requires the inside edges of the inner bearing race to clamp against the shoulders on the spindle in order to locate the spindle side to side.

Also something to watch out for. The threaded portion of the bearing cups is longer than the threads that are cut into the Beast BB shell. This caused me to crush some of the threads when I screwed the bearing cup all the way into the frame. I didn't realize that was the case until I noticed how hard it was to unscrew the bearing cup from the frame.

Another user (CruJonez on page 16,17 of this thread) was able to swap out the bearings to make it work but I don't know the details on what bearings he used. He said he swapped out the bearings to make it work. I assume he used the Howitzer spindle but am unsure if he also used the Howitzer Cups and just swapped out the cartridges.


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

Yeah, I have that BB too and it didn't fit...would be interested to know if the spindle fits in other cups though...the spindle is a quality piece compared to the stock Beast part....plus I have a nice lightweight set of Howitzer cranks not being used.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Also regarding the howitzer mod. I can tell you that these crank arms did NOT clear the non drive side chain stay.

Truvativ Ruktion 2.0RG Mountain Bike Crankset
Amazon.com: SRAM Truvativ Crank Ruktion 2.0Rg 170mm Pitch Black RG 36T 24T: Sports & Outdoors

So if you are going to try the howitzer mod use a different crank set.


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

I have a 'Blaze' set which is a triple. They have a bit of a bend to the arms so I think they will fit. I put the spindle in and slid them on and they had plenty of clearance, but I never bolted anything up to really prove it out. The Blaze cranks are fairly inexpensive...I grabbed mine off Craigslist for $15 never used. I've seen them new in the sub $30 range but out of stock most places.


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## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

Thanks dudeist! I just ordered the hub and hanger adapter. Wish me luck on the wheel build as it will be my first!

I am thinking I could get this:

Disc Brake Bracket Frame Adaptor Bicycle 3 Sizes for 140mm 160mm 180mm Rotor | eBay

so I can mount my rear disc brake caliper. Does this like it will work on the Beast frame?

Thanks for all the help.


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## aizu1 (Nov 28, 2005)

blown240 said:


> 3. It looks pretty sweet.


Hate to see your definition of ugly.
But at the same time, I really enjoyed following your project 
Keep'em comin'!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

aizu1 said:


> Hate to see your definition of ugly.
> But at the same time, I really enjoyed following your project
> Keep'em comin'!


Lol. Looking sweet and looking good are 2 different things to me. I admit, my bike is fairly ugly, but it's still cool, so that makes it sweet. That fork will look a lot better once it's done, and once it stops trying to kill people. So far I've gone OTB driving down my driveway, and my buddy went OTB riding off a curb. That's why it got sent back to the drawing board for some travel reduction, and my original fork got put back on.


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## COACHJBATES (Jan 6, 2014)

Houndog45 said:


> I'm not new to upgrading Walgooses hahahahha ...
> 
> I must add that it now sports some Racing Ralphs
> and a brooks saddle...and bb7s.....


Now is that a original Beast and what are the parts list you have on it..I dont care about weight..I want the thing to stand up to the up hill sprints I use it for...

Jim


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Bought a Beast, and the first ride in the snow was horrible - as in ain't goin no where. But I changed out the back gear from the stock 18t to a 22t and that helped - but still not able to go much distance. 

Then added an 32t gear to the front crank that I bought from LBS for $2.99. Had to drill mounting holes and added it to pedal side of the crank so the chain doesn't rub the tire. It worked great. 

Went for a ride down our local frozen, snow covered river last night with no problem. It's a fair amount of spinning on the clean pavement, but on the snow it's just right.

Total cost

Bike shipped to house with warranty 230
Back gear $6.50 at. LBS
Front gear $2.99 at LBS

LBS was very cool about project - very helpful.

Future will get a snow tire for back and sped steers for summer.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

First longer bike ride - about ten miles in mixed conditions. Bike did good on reasonably packed snow - snowmobile or foot paths. 

In non packed snow it was a no go - needed more gears and snow tried tires.

Also while jamming on the pedals to break through some untrodden snow I managed to force the rear axle forward in the dropouts. And of course it was five miles out.

Had to have my wife bring a couple wrenches.

Will need to add a couple washers with lock tabs to hold the axle in place. Loads of torque with the fat tires and low gears.

Overall it was a blast though - lots of potential.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Hope this pic shows up. Just shows how I added gear to front sprocket. Very easy and simple.

Five holes threaded for 5/16x18 thread. Some washers for spacers. Five button screws. And made the holes in the added gear a little larger for easier alignment.

All told a couple hours.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

I have been having good luck with these Redline tensioners

Amazon.com: Redline Alloy Chain Tensioners 3/8, Pair Black: Sports & Outdoors

It was a 2 pack and I only use one per bike which is nice.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Broken - used bike as commuter on Monday. Was decent on snow packed rail trail, but temp was above freezing and snow was not quite hard enough. 

On way home the back hub gave out. Have not taken it apart yet, but guessing it is the drive shaft reported by a couple others. 

The lesson - they specked the drive shaft for the original gearing. Changing the gearing with the fat grippy tires puts too much tourque on the shaft. 

Now deciding next move - send it back or remake the back wheel with an offset 135mm hub/wheel - and bend the frame to accommodate. Leaning toward the frame bending.

Anyone have any tips on bending the frame?


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Broke - same as others. Drive shaft in rear hub, at the weld. Weld seems to be off center to joint, also no real penetration in weld.

Now that I see this, it would break no mater what gears were on bike.

Weld not hot enough and not centered on joint.


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## Tibor (Nov 22, 2011)

just weld it back together... with a lot of patience its a 15minutes job


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

GiantTrek said:


> Anyone have any tips on bending the frame?


I had to widen the dropouts on my buddies by about an inch when I did his 6 speed. I used MAP gas and a pry bar and was able to bend the frame relatively easily.


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## rawly old (Dec 23, 2013)

Just another bit of quality Chinese manufacture?


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## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

Howdy. Brand new here. Beast is in the mail. Just ordered one this week. I'm stoked. 
Can't stand leaving my mtb hang in the garage all winter long, so hopefully the beast will allow me to go ride some singletrack this winter. My first plan was build a half-fat with my 29er 1x1 but I've read mixed reviews how they perform in the snow. So getting 2 beast wheels for the price of one seemed like the way to go (on a budget). 

This thread is awesome.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Blown 240

Thanks for the posts on this thread - gives me some ideas, and inspired me to give this a try. 

I was curious why you chose to widen the back hub over using a 135mm, like on the pugsly.

Did using a wider hub help with chain alignment, or did you not need to offset the wheel?

Curious as to how you would do it if you did another?

Thanks


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

you really should checkout the hub I used, Much easier than trying to squeeze that frame down to 135


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Did u have any chain/tire clearance issues. 

Sorry but some of you pictures are not viewable to me on some of your old posts.

Did u need to offset the wheel?


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

I used different bearings that were narrower



xobloof said:


> I tried this one but was unable to make it work. The BB shell on the beast is 110mm wide. I think the howitzer BB requires the inside edges of the inner bearing race to clamp against the shoulders on the spindle in order to locate the spindle side to side.
> 
> Also something to watch out for. The threaded portion of the bearing cups is longer than the threads that are cut into the Beast BB shell. This caused me to crush some of the threads when I screwed the bearing cup all the way into the frame. I didn't realize that was the case until I noticed how hard it was to unscrew the bearing cup from the frame.
> 
> Another user (CruJonez on page 16,17 of this thread) was able to swap out the bearings to make it work but I don't know the details on what bearings he used. He said he swapped out the bearings to make it work. I assume he used the Howitzer spindle but am unsure if he also used the Howitzer Cups and just swapped out the cartridges.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Cool, any chance you have a link to them or part numbers?

I tried googling for some but they seemed to be a hard to find dimensions. Maybe I just don't know where to look.


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

No clearance issues with the 150 hub, the wheel was built to fit centered in the frame, so yes I built it with specific offset to the bike. I did use narrower rims though so my true tire width was more like 3.8 or so. My disc brake mount served as the spacer on the brake side, a simple round spacer would do the job too if you plan to run something other than a disc brake.



GiantTrek said:


> Did u have any chain/tire clearance issues.
> 
> Sorry but some of you pictures are not viewable to me on some of your old posts.
> 
> Did u need to offset the wheel?


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## CruJonez (Apr 26, 2010)

I think maybe MR2237 's. measure your spindle OD and the shell ID's and make sure that works. The cups may have been GXP, I really don't remember and didn't write it down. I quit being a Trail Steward this year so I no longer have the bike to check for you, sorry



xobloof said:


> Cool, any chance you have a link to them or part numbers?
> 
> I tried googling for some but they seemed to be a hard to find dimensions. Maybe I just don't know where to look.


----------



## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Awesome, thanks for the info, Ill check it out. I do have some mega-exo cups laying around not sure how close those are to GXP, but hopefully I can get something up and going.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

GiantTrek said:


> Blown 240
> 
> Thanks for the posts on this thread - gives me some ideas, and inspired me to give this a try.
> 
> ...


I've done it twice now. If I was to do it again I would widen another Deore hub. Chain line is not an issue and the rim isn't offset. But I widened the dropouts to 190mm.

Going to 135mm requires an offset wheel and offset rear frame. I'm my opinion that's a lot more work than widening the frame.

If my pics aren't showing up its because my photobucket has reached its bandwidth limit again. The pics will show back up in a couple days.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I also used CruJones' method- replacing the hub with a 150mm X 12mm thru-axle disc hub, and spacers. I ended up with 5 gears out of a possible nine without bending the frame and with plenty of tire clearance. Thanks again, CruJones. I never knew what rear wheel stiffness WAS until riding a 12mm solid steel axle.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

So I talked the folks at pacific cycles and they were very good about my drive shaft failure. I also sent the photo of the failure. 

I re-welded the shaft and reassembled. They are sending new parts, but I didn't want to wait a week. So will have a spare.

Went for a test ride and tried jamming the breaks - weld held up - but snapped the coaster break arm strap attachment to the frame. Another weak link on this bike. So I fabed up a HD strap. I also fabed a stopper for the drive side axle at the drop out - since I had forced it forward on an earlier ride.

Still planning the gears - when time allows - but there is snow and ice to ride...

Went for a five mile ride and it was fantastic. The snow had melted some, but is hard now so I actually was able to ride on top. Kinda weird feeling - big smile. And the pedeling was relatively easy too. Bike performed great.


----------



## pesettles (Oct 26, 2013)

St Joseph, MI here. I haven't changed any gearing yet. (You changed the rear cog, right?) Was that relatively easy?

I've swapped out the handlebars, stem, seatpost, saddle & on the front wheel I drilled out the rims & put lighter (Presta) tubes in it. I've lost about 5 lbs so far from the original 49+.


----------



## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

pesettles said:


> St Joseph, MI here. I haven't changed any gearing yet. (You changed the rear cog, right?) Was that relatively easy?
> 
> I've swapped out the handlebars, stem, seatpost, saddle & on the front wheel I drilled out the rims & put lighter (Presta) tubes in it. I've lost about 5 lbs so far from the original 49+.


Swapping the rear cog is super easy. There is just a snap ring holding it on.


----------



## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Fabed up a heavy duty break strap as the original broke.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Great fatgoose ride! 19 degrees = perfect.


----------



## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Added a locating tab to drive side dropout so hub can not be driven forward - like happened five miles into 10 mile ride.


----------



## richtotheie (Jan 17, 2014)

*Bottom Bracket Replacement???*

SO i can get a bit rowdy....








Hence i twisted the bottom bracket spindle from landing impact.

I can't seem to find any replacement spindles... but more importantly the whole bottom bracket. I need something ROBUST! Any leads??


----------



## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I think this is the only sealed one that fits without refacing the bb shell. Tommi Sea 122 mm Sealed Bottom Bracket
$40+shipping. I used 8mm worth of spacers on drive side for crank clearance and chainline. Can't say I rock it as hard as that pic, but did bend my spindle also, and the Tommisea is holding up well and I'm 200 lbs. loaded.
Great first post, by the way.


----------



## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

GiantTrek said:


> ... snapped the coaster break arm strap attachment to the frame. Another weak link on this bike.


now THIS is a failure that i have never heard of.

glad to know pacific was helpful with the driver.


----------



## Bill in Houston (Nov 26, 2011)

I straightened my spindle by using a c-clamp to squeeze the crank arm toward the seat tube. If that isn't the right orientation to rebend yours, just remove the crank arm and rotate it to the appropriate orientation. i hope it works for you too!


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

I think the strap was made of Renolds extra strength


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

What kind of tire pressure is everyone running?

I commuted to work with about 7 to 10 psi and it was rough going. Came home on 20 psi and was a fast ride. Mostly paved rail trail with a few lengths of 6-12" snow pack.

With the hard packed snow, 20 psi was actually pretty good?

Gotta say too - the more I ride the more I like it. Fats are fun!


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I run 12-15 psi almost always. But I'm also running Devist8r tires. When I was climbing in chunky deep snow, and trying to ride fast slippery single track in the snow, I dropped to about 7 psi. But pressure that low sucks on hardpack and pavement.


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

Mosquito1 said:


> I should not be the go to guy on the Walbeast, but I wanted to share the parts I added.
> 
> This crank went right in. I removed the big ring and just run the small one. Amazon.com: Vuelta Corsa Comp 50/34 170Mm, Square Taper: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> ...


Well I've got my panties in a bunch trying to figure out what to do for gearing on my beast... My SS 29er is setup with a 32 front and 20 rear cog. But the beast is a lot heavier and most of my riding will be winter wonderland singletrack. So I was thinking a 32 front and 22 rear might be the ticket for the beast? Maybe? I don't know. 
I like the price of those Vuelta cranksets. Is there anything else comparable in price with a 32 tooth chainring? 
Any recommendations guys???
(Links are super helpful)


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

There she be.


----------



## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

I'm running 32x22 and it's about right. A little too much spin on dry land and a little too hard in soft snow. Just right on the hard snow.

I was able to bolt on a $3 gear from my LBS to the original sprocket. Requires drilling a few holes, but it's working good. 

I thought about using a manual tensioner and that way you could switch between the two single speeds, and keep the coaster brake. Of course not as convenient as regular shifters - but a more challenging ride.


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

32/20 on my good weather fatbike
32/22 on the snow/bog one, and I've just dinglespeeded it so it's now either 32/22 or 22/32. The idea is to make it more capable more capable in deep snow or bogs while still retaining the capability to ride on a normal trail.


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

GiantTrek said:


> I'm running 32x22 and it's about right. A little too much spin on dry land and a little too hard in soft snow. Just right on the hard snow.
> 
> I was able to bolt on a $3 gear from my LBS to the original sprocket. Requires drilling a few holes, but it's working good.
> 
> I thought about using a manual tensioner and that way you could switch between the two single speeds, and keep the coaster brake. Of course not as convenient as regular shifters - but a more challenging ride.


Thanks for the info! Good idea... bolting a 32 onto the stock sprocket. I think I would change out the crankset with something a little lighter (if the price was right). Those stock cranks are boat anchors. They gotta go!


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

Velobike said:


> 32/20 on my good weather fatbike
> 32/22 on the snow/bog one, and I've just dinglespeeded it so it's now either 32/22 or 22/32. The idea is to make it more capable more capable in deep snow or bogs while still retaining the capability to ride on a normal trail.


I love the dinglespeed idea! Can you explain how yours is set up? (Pics would be nice!) Is the front a 42/32/22 crankset with just the 32/22 on there? Or did you fab something custom? And what about the rear cogs... how are those set up? 
Thanks for the help.


----------



## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Origin8 Quick Release Rear 6-bolt disc 170mm Hub 36h Sealed 8/9spd, Black
Amazon.com: Origin8 Quick Release Rear 6-bolt disc 170mm Hub 36h Sealed 8/9spd, Black: Everything Else

Anyone try these hubs? Already fairly large without modifying.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That hub should work pretty good. I think the only issue may be that you would need to have your front ring out pretty far so that you could use the granny gear.


----------



## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

It's ok his granny gear is outside his manly gear- on page 33. Also if that's a steel freehub body You can buy a cheaper cassette with no spider and take it apart and rearrange the cogs or add spacers to improve chain clearance or chainline. That hub looks like a good find.


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

Is anyone running a Surly Big Fat Larry up front???


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

wadester said:


> The tooth profile of cogs/rings designed for shifting is for easily moving off - and especially in the "shift zones". When I started mt fixie, it kept coming off the front (part of a triple set) ring - but never the made-for-it rear cog. Moved to a "single speed" ring and had no more problems.
> 
> I note that my Beast is running a Surly singlespeed ring and a shimano nexus rear cog. Haven't even offered to come off, and the chain is not that tight. Of course, I also went to 7mm's of effort to make sure they ring&cog were aligned as well. YMMV.


Vuelta Montagna Pro 22/32/44 170mm, Square Taper:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors

So I was going to purchase this crankset for the beast so I could run the 32T up front. But some are saying a singlespeed style chainring is better. Not much out there for singlespeed cranksets with a 32t. Will this Vuelta triple crank work? Or do I need something different? I'm planning on a CyclesUS rear hub and Nexus 23t cog in the rear. 
HELP HELP HELP!


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It'll work, and you can play with swaping the chainrings you want with different gearing in back. another option is finding a used crankset, removing the old rings and put on a 32 tooth raceface narrow-wide up front. Designed more for 10-speed chains, but should work pretty good on a singlespeed.


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Mongoose beast cheap modifications*


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

These are a few shots of my beast with six speed rear cantilever brakes front and rear and rear derailleur.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That's a great looking beast. Did you make the cable guides? They look sorta like the ones I made for my buddy. How we'll do the cantilever brakes work?


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

blown240 said:


> That's a great looking beast. Did you make the cable guides? They look sorta like the ones I made for my buddy. How we'll do the cantilever brakes work?


Thanks for the compliment. I didn't want to spend much and I found a donor for canti studs and Cable stops. The rear brake stop was chai guard bracket. Old style cantilever brakes have more leverage and more clearance. 
10mmx1 nut for derailleur mount. Us choppers wide disc freewheel hub with shimano six speed freewheel


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Cool! Nice job. Nice clean look. I really want to make another one for myself. 

I went for a nice ride on my beast today. Strava says I hit 40.9 mph on a long single trank downhill, but I'm not sure I believe that.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

scooterbee said:


> Us choppers wide disc freewheel hub with shimano six speed freewheel


did you have to align the hub flanges like blown240 was mentioning on the one he did? i think i'm closing in on finishing the rear suspension idea and still meaning to buy that hub.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Looks great scooterbee. 

Any tire/chain or alignment issues? Were you able to use the same spokes?


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

GiantTrek said:


> Looks great scooterbee.
> 
> Any tire/chain or alignment issues? Were you able to use the same spokes?


I was able to use the same spokes and nipples and I also had about 2mm of spoke poking through which I ground off. The hub holes were fine. I added one nut on the freewheel side and spread chainstays a bit. I am running endomorphs with no clearance problems


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## ZX10R203 (Jan 27, 2014)

scooterbee said:


> I was able to use the same spokes and nipples and I also had about 2mm of spoke poking through which I ground off. The hub holes were fine. I added one nut on the freewheel side and spread chainstays a bit. I am running endomorphs with no clearance problems


Can you post a few more pictures of your rear brake setup? Got a Beast for Xmas and trying figure out brakes for it. Having a hard time getting used to the coast brake.


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## COACHJBATES (Jan 6, 2014)

Hey Scooter Bee....Can you post more details on this build..I have a donor 9 speed bike that I could use for parts? More details in the parts and the build?


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Cheap beast back brake*

Here's a few photos of cheap rear brake


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Cheap beast back brake*

Here's a few photos of cheap rear brake


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## BlacknBlue2002 (Dec 6, 2013)

Got about 8-10 inches of snow last night...thought it was a good photo-op for my Beast and Tommisea Destroyer...This thread has been great in helping me find parts for these two bikes. I build the Destroyer from the frame up and have just about $600 in both of these bikes combined right now:


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Walmart only has blue ones left. If any of you guys were thinking about getting one, now may be the time. 

I just ordered one. Ill probably leave it in the box until I figure out what I want to do with it.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

The Beast has gears and front breaks. 

Swapped parts from an old mtb. Used standard hub, bent frame and offset wheel. Hardest part was aligning axle/spoke offset to frame/chain. Trying to get perfect blend for max gear usage and no tire/frame interference.

Other than that it went pretty well.

Will post pics after back brake, rims drilled, and pretty paint job.

Thanks for the great ideas on this forum!


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

I've finally got my front disc brake on the beast, as well as lengthening the fork 2". 1.5" instead of 2" might have been a little better but it's helped out a lot with the toe overlap problem too. To lengthen the fork I used and old road master mtn bike that is also made by Pacific Cycles and has a fork identical to the beast, only not as wide. Initially I lengthened the lower part of the fork which gave the bike too much rake and made steering weird, so I undid that and lengthened it at the top above the fork bend.

I also did a hack job lengthening the seat post as I did not want to buy a longer one. I cut a bend in it to set it back a little. I need to lengthen the frame seat tube a couple inches at least and weld a tube gusset eventually other wise the seat tube and/or frame will eventually bend and break from it being so long.

Over all, the Beast rides much better now and wheel flop is reduced alot but still there at low tire pressure. I think it has alot to do with the square tire profile of the Origin8 tires. A rounder tire should have less flop I think.

There is a ton of flex in the front fork so I'll probably end up welding on a brace that also acts as a front cargo rack to stiffen it up.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

Here's how I originally lengthened the fork. It was TIG welded by my friend:

























The tube insert is for overlap strength between the tube weld seam.
It sucked that I had to undo this and re-lengthen it again above the fork bend, but it was a good experience in how lengthening in different ways effects handling.


----------



## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Wow there's some really cool stuff you guys are doing here!


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## 1SPDBING (Mar 16, 2013)

Deleted


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

N8R said:


> Here's how I originally lengthened the fork. It was TIG welded by my friend....


I've said it before, but I love the way that bike encourage experimentation.

I've a few ideas I'd like to try on my fatbike frame, but I'm not game to chop it up. Shame we can't get the Walgoose over here.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

Velobike said:


> I've said it before, but I love the way that bike encourage experimentation.
> 
> I've a few ideas I'd like to try on my fatbike frame, but I'm not game to chop it up. Shame we can't get the Walgoose over here.


Yeah it's really nice having a $200 cheap steel bike to chop up and not sweat it. I got to try TIG welding for the first time last week and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be, but I already MIG pretty well which helps I think. I only had one go for a couple minutes, so I need to practice a few more times before I'll feel confident in the strength of my TIG welds, enough to weld my own frames.
It's been fun hacking the goose but I'm about to the point where it makes more sense to start modifying regular chromoly mtn bike frames into a fatbike, to have a better steel, lighter, and stronger frame. Old chromoly frames are easy to come buy for next to nothing or even free around here.

Not sure if you weld or not Velobike, but if not I would HIGHLY recommend learning to TIG weld. I've been saying I was going to learn to TIG for years but never got around to it because of convenience. After finally getting on a machine, I'm kicking myself for not having done so sooner. It opens up a whole new world of being able to build things. For $700 here in the U.S. you can get a decent little TIG for steel and for $1000 one that does steel and aluminum.

TIG200 DC Welder | TIG Welder | TIG Welders | Eastwood

TIG Welder | TIG Welders | TIG Welding ? Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

I haven't done any welding for over 20 years, and although I did once make a long range fuel tank for my motorbike out of a car roof with an arc welder, I'd hesitate to do precision stuff like a frame.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

Welding isn't nearly as mysterious or as difficult as many make it out to be. It does take a little practice to get good strong welds with the right amount of heat and good penetration, but I've found it to be much more attainable than many would have others believe, at least for people with good hand-eye coordination. Arc welding is VERY crude compared to TIG. When I first TIG'ed I couldn't believe how smooth and controllable it was. The reason I'm bringing this up is I see many tinkerers, DIYer's, that would love to make things or try new ideas, but can only do so much and get held back for only a lack of being able to weld, and by the views that welding is a tricky and complicated thing to learn. I had this view of welding until I got my hands wet with it and realized how attainable welding really is. 

Aluminum requires more attention to lack of impurities and needs heat treating, but steel is much more forgiving and doesn't need heat treatment. I imagine someone who just wanted to build steel frames could learn to TIG with good adequate strong welds very quickly. Plus you can always add a little extra gusseting in critical areas until you get perfect welds. 

I'm by no means an expert, and I'm not suggesting that a newby to TIG'ing go weld up and ride hard their first bike the first time welding, but with a few hours or more of practice, sufficient strength welds can be learned, and you can over compensate for strength as well as break test welds to see how strong you are welding. You see alot of not so good welding done on low end department store bikes, and they hold up fine for the most part. It's not hard to surpass department store bike weld quality. 

I'm mostly just throwing this out there to maybe pique the interest of anyone who is at that level of modding and fabricating where the only thing really holding them back is precision welding. I guess I'm just excited about it and want to share it with others cause it opens up a whole new world for the DIY'er/ tinkerer and it's within reach of anyone who really has desire to take the step.

It's one of those things that once you experience it, you slap yourself and wonder why you didn't start TIG welding years ago, and think about how much easier it would have made all your projects and brining ideas to life.


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## tcr0148 (Feb 5, 2014)

I have been following u guys for a few months after seeing the fat bikes on youtube. I picked this up and have been riding a good bit around Houston (terry hershey and gerorge bush park). I actually did 30 miles on this bike a few weeks ago. I changed the coaster brake cog sprocket to a 22 and it was too slow for me so I swapped it back to the 18. If anyone in the houston area needs a 22, give me a shout.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

tcr0148, where did you get the water bottle cage holder? Beast frame is a bigger tube and no braze ons so I need a clamp/strap system for the cage holder. Link plz.


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## tcr0148 (Feb 5, 2014)

I got everything from academy. I used 3M double sided tape and 2 tie wraps. I got the idea from one of the members. It works well. No complaints


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Any body else see the thread about the complete Mongoose fatbike prototype at $300 price point!! 

Some folks are reporting seeing one out on the trails and were able to get a little info.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

This was posted on another thread as the prototype due out in a few weeks.

Check out "new geese on the way"


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## tcr0148 (Feb 5, 2014)

I like it! Does anyone want to buy my current beast? Lol


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

will the prototype be sold on Walmart.com? any specs on bike?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Can somebody please give me the weight of a stock beast fork? The one I have isn't stock, so its not accurate. Im trying to compare the weight difference to a Salsa Enabler fork.


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## cabby (Feb 7, 2014)

tcr0148 said:


> I have been following u guys for a few months after seeing the fat bikes on youtube. I picked this up and have been riding a good bit around Houston (terry hershey and gerorge bush park). I actually did 30 miles on this bike a few weeks ago. I changed the coaster brake cog sprocket to a 22 and it was too slow for me so I swapped it back to the 18. If anyone in the houston area needs a 22, give me a shout.


From those pictures it looks like the Mongoose Brutus from amazon.
Is that what it is?

Amazon.com: Mongoose Brutus Bicycle, Black, 26-Inch: Sports & Outdoors


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/new-geese-way-897692-2.html
See post #42. Thanks, N8R


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## mmullins437 (Jul 13, 2007)

Nice mods! What's the length of your seatpost, N8R? Think a 400mm psst would be sufficient for someone 6'"2? 

Also, is the stem a 1" threaded? Think kind need a longer stem, too...


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

mmullins437 said:


> Nice mods! What's the length of your seatpost, N8R? Think a 400mm psst would be sufficient for someone 6'"2?
> 
> Also, is the stem a 1" threaded? Think kind need a longer stem, too...


Can't remember the exact length, I wanna say 17"-19". It's longer than it need to be though and I'm going to cut it a little. The 400mm would probably work for you. The stem is 1 1/8" threaded I believe.


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## tcr0148 (Feb 5, 2014)

cabby said:


> From those pictures it looks like the Mongoose Brutus from amazon.
> Is that what it is?
> Amazon.com: Mongoose Brutus Bicycle, Black, 26-Inch: Sports & Outdoors


You got it buddy


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## mmullins437 (Jul 13, 2007)

Awesome. Thanks... now I'm turning my desire to the upcoming Disc 1X7 Beastly... It would be even better if that has a 27.2 seatpost (I've got an extra 400mm) and the threadless stem will be easier to swap with a longer extra.

Fatty On!


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

*Winter Wonderland*























I did about 15 miles in the snow this weekend. It was alot of fun.

My mods are:
Devist8ers 
Redline chain tensioner (just 1)
Shimano crank arm (drive side only)
32/20 gearing
K-alloy seatpost
Gary Fisher Seat (from goodwill)
VP-747 Pedals (green)
Protaper SE Trials Mid bar (815mm wide)
ODI Vans Lock-on grips


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## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

*My Beastification story . . . .*

First time poster, so give the newb some slack -

Now that the news is out that 'new geese' are coming, I figured I'd post this cause it will make a lot more sense BEFORE they're available . . .

Green Beast with mods - went to a 20t rear cog, but not enough for frozen river riding.








Working on a 3x7 setup. ChoppersUS rear disc hub, ALTUS drivetrain from donor mid-90s GT outpost. Had to shift axel to the drive side, add nut and spread frame to get the hub in, but it works and chain line looks promising.















Vee Rubber tires/tubes - dropped 7 lbs.
E-type FDR - got the bracket and DR mounted.
Quill adapter for threadless, new stem and bars (parts bin)
Lightweight seat (parts bin)

Brakes - planning mech discs with bolt on adapter mentioned earlier in this thread.

Current problem - how to mount a cable stop for the bottom pull FDR.
Prefer not to have to weld.

Ideas?


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## tcr0148 (Feb 5, 2014)

local muffler shop will probably tact / weld it for free


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## mmullins437 (Jul 13, 2007)

BeastNik said:


> First time poster, so give the newb some slack -
> 
> Current problem - how to mount a cable stop for the bottom pull FDR.
> Prefer not to have to weld.
> ...


IRD (Interloc Racing Design) sells some clamping cable stops in two sizes for tubes 31.8mm or 28.6mm. I imagine the Beast might be in between the two diameters, though, so maybe the 31.8mm with a shim would work? Worth measuring and looking into, though...


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## NEOHIO Ray (Apr 3, 2013)

You can also check problem solvers, they have all kinds of stuff.


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

BeastNik said:


> Current problem - how to mount a cable stop for the bottom pull FDR.
> Prefer not to have to weld.
> 
> Ideas?


Ok, I have to work thru the wordage - but bottom pull means the cable comes from below? (swing can be top or bottom too, but doesn't matter here)

If so, all you need is a bottom bracket cable guide:


















Just drill and tap a hole in the BB shell.

If the cable comes from the top, Problem Solvers is great.


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## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

wadester said:


> Ok, I have to work thru the wordage - but bottom pull means the cable comes from below? (swing can be top or bottom too, but doesn't matter here)
> 
> If so, all you need is a bottom bracket cable guide:
> 
> ...


Looks like this may be the cheapest route. Any idea what the thread size may be for this?

Thanks for input from all yall.
?


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

You will still need a cable stop. Using that bottom pull BB guide will mean the cable stop needs to be mounted on the down tube. It may be difficult to find one that can fit that weird diameter. I would imagine its easier to find a stop to fit the seat tube than the down tube.

32mm seat tube diameter
45.6mm down tube diameter (in the middle where it is round, it is kind of oval at the ends)

However people have been known to do amazing things with automotive hose clamps and a piece of rubber.


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## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

xobloof said:


> You will still need a cable stop. Using that bottom pull BB guide will mean the cable stop needs to be mounted on the down tube. It may be difficult to find one that can fit that weird diameter. I would imagine its easier to find a stop to fit the seat tube than the down tube.
> 
> 32mm seat tube diameter
> 45.6mm down tube diameter (in the middle where it is round, it is kind of oval at the ends)
> ...


Looks like I'm headed for a clamp-on of some sort. Unless I can mod the plastic piece to work, but think it would have strength issues.

Thanks.


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## memi (Nov 14, 2011)

I don't recommend this way, because you will expose the cable to elements.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

This above the derailleur

Amazon.com: Origin8 Clamp-On Frame Cable Stop, Double, 31.8mm Black: Sports & Outdoors

and this below

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Cable-Guide-Pulley/dp/B003Q3W12I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

should do the trick.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Does anyone happen to know the thickness of the top tube in a Beast?

I got my new blue Beasts built last night, took it around the block, and the started taking it apart. I'm thinking of using the top tube as the seat tube, so that I can use a 31.6 mm dropper seat post that I have. I have a piece of chain stay from my red Beast that I can measure, but I am not sure if all the tubing is the same thickness...

I would then make a new top tube and down tube. Probably end up with a 71* seat tube and a 67* head tube.


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## N8R (Feb 4, 2004)

blown240 said:


> Does anyone happen to know the thickness of the top tube in a Beast?
> 
> I got my new blue Beasts built last night, took it around the block, and the started taking it apart. I'm thinking of using the top tube as the seat tube, so that I can use a 31.6 mm dropper seat post that I have. I have a piece of chain stay from my red Beast that I can measure, but I am not sure if all the tubing is the same thickness...
> 
> I would then make a new top tube and down tube. Probably end up with a 71* seat tube and a 67* head tube.


By the time you do all that, you are getting into frame building territory and might as well just make your own frame from old chromoly bikes, and have a better, stronger, lighter frame. 
Also, I would question whether or not the frame is under tension and when you cut the tubes if things will pop out of alignment a little. Might need a jig to get everything lined back up perfect. 
Personally, I would just get an old chromolly frame, widen the BB, widen the rear triangle, and replace the seat tube with a 31.6, and be done.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

holographic duct tape rim strip installed on front rim of my Beast. I had to scrape/sand outer rim for grip on front canti brake. I would love to upgrade hub to disc but $$ is tight atm.










Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk


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## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Snow trike from walk beast wheels*



COACHJBATES said:


> Hey Scooter Bee....Can you post more details on this build..I have a donor 9 speed bike that I could use for parts? More details in the parts and the build?


I ended up with an extra wheel so I built up my old trike to handle new rubber


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## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

"Then I got the wheel built up. I was able to use the original spokes by doing a reverse spiral pattern. Plus it looks sweet. I used a 75mm Surly rims trip backed by a layer of duct tape. Then I put in a standard 26x2.5 tube. I mounted the 203mm rotor, but I need to get some proper rotor bolts."

Hey Blown240, I know this is an older post, but have you had any issues with the spiral lacing pattern and the disc brake combo? I've read that's not advisable, and I could see having some torsion issues. I'm building a 3x7 with the same USChoppers hub.

Also, how'd you line up your disc brake tab before you welded? 

Thanks. 

ps, how's the full suspension ridin now?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

BeastNik said:


> Hey Blown240, I know this is an older post, but have you had any issues with the spiral lacing pattern and the disc brake combo? I've read that's not advisable, and I could see having some torsion issues. I'm building a 3x7 with the same USChoppers hub.
> 
> Also, how'd you line up your disc brake tab before you welded?
> 
> ...


I haven't had any issues with the spiral laced wheel. Under heavy braking the wheel moves to the left about 3/16 inch, but there is plenty of fork clearance.

For the disc tab i just put the caliper on the rotor and made a cardboard template of how the tab needed to be. Then when the tab was ready, and bolted to the caliper, I adjusted the caliper so that it was tight on the rotor. It was then held in place while I made a couple tac welds.

The full suspension is working out great! I have had zero issues other than a little squeaking that was fixed with some silicone spray.


----------



## scooterbee (Dec 29, 2013)

*Disc brake tab set*



BeastNik said:


> "Then I got the wheel built up. I was able to use the original spokes by doing a reverse spiral pattern. Plus it looks sweet. I used a 75mm Surly rims trip backed by a layer of duct tape. Then I put in a standard 26x2.5 tube. I mounted the 203mm rotor, but I need to get some proper rotor bolts."
> 
> Hey Blown240, I know this is an older post, but have you had any issues with the spiral lacing pattern and the disc brake combo? I've read that's not advisable, and I could see having some torsion issues. I'm building a 3x7 with the same USChoppers hub.
> 
> ...


It sounds like you already have a brake tab. Mount rotor to wheel. Mount wheel to frame. Mount caliper to disc tab leaving adjuster bolts semi tight. If you're using avids dial in brake pads to clamp on rotor. Tack your tabs on the frame. Remove caliper and wheel. Weld her up


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## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

*Snow Beast mods (cheap)*



























Snow Beast Mods:

Tektro BMX brake levers $15 LBS

Jagwire Stainless brake cables $13
Nashbar Mechanical Disc Brake Cable and Housing Set - Bike Brake Cables / Housing

Nashbar Rear brake cable hanger $3
Nashbar Rear Brake Cable Hanger - Normal Shipping Ground___

Nashbar Cantilever brakes $25
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Bike Rim Brakes

Rear brake mounts: Universal motorcycle handlebar mirror mounts 10mm x 7/8" clamp $7 
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay seller: tmshelmet

Brake studs 10x1.25mm $8
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay seller: jisozaki

Nashbar Bashguard (not pictured) $13
Nashbar Mountain Bike Bashguard - Normal Shipping Ground

Nashbar Black Ops Flat Handlebars 700mm x 31.8mm $20
Nashbar Black Ops Flat Mountain Handlebar - Normal Shipping Ground___

Orbea Stem 120mm x 31.8mm $12
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay seller: random.bike.parts

Nashbar Stem adaptor threaded to threadless 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 $10
Nashbar Stem Adaptor - Normal Shipping Ground___

Velo Lock-on grips $6 
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay

Vuelta Montagna Pro 170mm 22/32/44 square taper crankset $36
(came up at 1.6 lbs on the bathroom scale)
Amazon.com: Vuelta Montagna Pro 22/32/44 170mm, Square Taper: Sports & Outdoors

Shimano Nexus 23T cog $10
Amazon.com: Shimano SG-3C40 Nexus Sprocket (23T): Sports & Outdoors

Surly Big Fat Larry 120tpi tires (pair) with Surly 1.0mm tubes $120 on Craigslist (sweet deal). Also- these dropped 10 lbs off the bike! 
I was happy to fit a BFL on the rear too. Plenty of clearance. 
Parts bin: Redline pedals / Avenir seat / Canti straddle cables / Front brake mount brackets / Redline chain tensioner

I did make some custom parts to get the front and rear brakes to work. Since the mounting brackets didn't have a hole to catch the brake spring pin, I made an aluminum "L" shaped plate with a slot for the rear brake springs and used a washer with two slots cut for the front brake springs. 
The front brake mount brackets are off a spin bike used for a water bottle holder that mounts to the handlebars. The front brake cable hanger is also off a spin bike used for the seat adjustment. Both of these were available to me for free. The rear brake mounts are normally used for motorcycle mirrors to mount to 7/8" handlebars. Mounted perfectly on the seat stays and the threads fit the 10x1.25mm brake bosses I found on ebay. 
Next I am going to remove the 44 and 22 chainrings and slap on a bashguard.
Also wanted to mention that the 32x23 gearing is perfect for winter wonderland singletrack


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## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

blown240 said:


> I haven't had any issues with the spiral laced wheel. Under heavy braking the wheel moves to the left about 3/16 inch, but there is plenty of fork clearance.
> 
> For the disc tab i just put the caliper on the rotor and made a cardboard template of how the tab needed to be. Then when the tab was ready, and bolted to the caliper, I adjusted the caliper so that it was tight on the rotor. It was then held in place while I made a couple tac welds.
> 
> The full suspension is working out great! I have had zero issues other than a little squeaking that was fixed with some silicone spray.


Thanks for the info. Good to hear no issues so far. Love the fab work on your full suspension! 
Did you re-align your frame so your dropouts weren't angled out slightly? I'm wondering if this will effect rear derailleur function. Was going to go with bolt on disc adapter, but now leaning toward welding them. I don't have a long enough axle on the brake side to fit the adapter.

Thanks.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

You will need to realign the dropouts. I used a replaceable derailer hanger from another bike that I had laying around. It works well, but welding a 10x1 nut works good too.


----------



## Cyclebutt (Feb 20, 2014)

Wow! Glad to find this thread. Bought one, rode it once, bought another. Parts on order to turn the first one into an off-road electric. I'll study this thread before deciding how to modify the second one. These things are just over the top cool!


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

saw this at TRU $249.99 looks exactly the same as beast. no change in geometry or parts


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## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

Mr BadWrench said:


> saw this at TRU $249.99 looks exactly the same as beast. no change in geometry or parts


BroncoGoose! NFL upcharge! But, yes, it's the same machine under the different colors.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

its called The Dozer


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## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

I like everything you've done so far....Awesome.I forgot the first time to mention that I ordered the same color.Two more days and I cant wait.


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## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

GiantTrek said:


> So I talked the folks at pacific cycles and they were very good about my drive shaft failure. I also sent the photo of the failure.
> 
> I re-welded the shaft and reassembled. They are sending new parts, but I didn't want to wait a week. So will have a spare.
> 
> ...


Hey GiantTrek-
How is your weld holding up? I just snapped mine and was considering the same quick fix. 
I'm also considering a USchoppers wide freewheel hub. I'm already set up with canti brakes so it would be nice to lose the coaster and get a freewheel instead.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Forheavensakeitsjake said:


> Hey GiantTrek-
> How is your weld holding up? I just snapped mine and was considering the same quick fix.
> I'm also considering a USchoppers wide freewheel hub. I'm already set up with canti brakes so it would be nice to lose the coaster and get a freewheel instead.


It held up well. But I converted to a seven speed from an old bike. My conversion cost was free. But I did have an old bike for parts.

I welded on brake studs, offset the spokes, and bent/offset the back frame so there would be no chain/tire interference. I did end up buying a new set of gears just to get a 34 tooth mega gear - which is used fairly often.

So far I've put about 400 miles on the bike. Everything is working well and have not hadany issues since converting. Still have not painted and made pretty.

The bike has been great, and it turns out that I LOVE fat biking. I'm hooked.


----------



## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

7up said:


> I like everything you've done so far....Awesome.I forgot the first time to mention that I ordered the same color.Two more days and I cant wait.


 Now for the update......... After waiting for a blue Beast i received an email stating that it was lost in transit by the shipper and Amazon had refunded my money back to my card.Oh great!!! I thought to myself now hopefully I can find a beast again to buy because they are far and few between and I'm not paying double the $199.00 price or almost triple the $169.00 asking price when on sale.
No matter what I do I cant find another blue Beast.There are only red ones but the the color looks stranger and personally I'm not really into red that much so I order the Black with yellow rimmed Mongoose Brutus for $8.00 more then the price of the blue one which cost me $288.00 altogether.
So this morning I get an email stating that the Brutus will be delivered tomorrow which is fine with me can't wait.So I go home and behold I have a delivery and I'm saying to myself this Amazon service is amazing when it comes to deliveries but as I get close to the box I read that its a BEAST !!! Holy Moly I say to my self this is a miracle only it turned out to be a red one that I never ordered but was shipped from Florida from Wally World.I checked everything trying to figure out where it came from but the order number is not to be found either.What am I gonna do? I never ordered it but they got my name and all.
Anyhow I unboxed it and this red is kinda hot besides it was Double boxed and wrapped up real good.Not a scratch on her and the best part is I supposedly paid $199.00 for this one.I went from not looking very good with getting a fat bike to having one two many.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

7up said:


> No matter what I do I cant find another blue Beast.There are only red ones but the the color looks stranger and personally I'm not really into red that much so I order the Black with yellow rimmed Mongoose Brutus for $8.00 more then the price of the blue one which cost me $288.00 altogether.


Have you heard of the Dolomite that is coming out this month? It's basically a beast with disc brakes and a 7 speed for about $240.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Got another beast torn down tonight. Here are the weights of some of the parts:


Chain guard 183.3 g
Kick stand 295.6 g
Wheel reflectors 67 g
Handlebars 572.4
Stem 482.3
Seatpost 457.3
Seat 342.6
Seatpost clamp 33.4
Pedals 381.2
Chain 343.2
Cranks 1140.1
Headset 163.5
Bottom bracket 427.2
Fork 1341.4
Frame 9lbs (bathroom scale; weighed it 4 times, once 8.8, once 9.2, twice 9.0)

Rim strip 87.7 
Front spokes with nipples 265
Rear spokes with nipples 263.8
Front hub. 294.1
Rear hub w gear and brake strap 1194.6
Rim 1190
Inner tube 727
Tire 6.4 lbs (bathroom scale)

Only part I didn't get was the grips.

OH, and the bottom bracket shell is 110mm and the spindle is 175mm long


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

FatBikeNoob said:


> View attachment 870702
> 
> 
> email attachment from Pacific Cycles after I sent them email asking for Dolomite details.
> ...


Can't wait to see these hit the market. Interested in the beast, but if one comes with gears and discs, It'll be a much better starting point. Only thing I'm concerned about is if they use the same bottom bracket as the beast, and if they'll use a standard size seatpost. I'm tall, and the stock seatpost just isn't long enough.


----------



## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Looks like the Dolomite is available now!

26" Mongoose Men's Dolomite, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com


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## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

blown240 said:


> Have you heard of the Dolomite that is coming out this month? It's basically a beast with disc brakes and a 7 speed for about $240.


 I'll be checking one of those out as soon as its on sale.Thanks blown240


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

7up said:


> I'll be checking one of those out as soon as its on sale.Thanks blown240


They are available now. 
26" Mongoose Men's Dolomite, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

$225 online at above link.


----------



## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

I went from Zero Fatties in my stable to four of which one will be given to my exwife.I must be off my rocker!!! Just ordered the Dolomite Fatty for $240 w/tax as well as a Massif 20" $197 w/tax just the other day.


----------



## CurtP (Mar 2, 2014)

I think I'm going to start parting out my Beast. I no longer have the original fork, seat post or seat, so I can't really put it back to stock.


----------



## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

*Need axle for new wheel for my beast*

I recently built up this hub from:

Wide Hub - Freewheel/Disc BLK - CYCLES U.S. - Cycles U.S. Homepage - CYCLES U.S. - www.cyclesus.com

for my fatbike. My problem is I need a wider axle than the stock 210mm. I am adding this bracket for a disc brake:

Disc Brake Bracket Frame Adaptor Bicycle 3 Sizes for 140mm 160mm 180mm Rotor | eBay

This bracket fits around the axle on the non-drive side so there isn't enough axle left to safely secure the nut. The stock axle is 210mm&#8230;.I need one about 230 mm wide. I have looked on the internet but I can't find any axles this wide. Anybody know of a source?


----------



## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

I made mine on the lathe out of a small bar of Ti...


----------



## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

There was a post on here a while back where the axle was cut in half, and a spacer added to the middle. Drilled and tapped both cut ends, added a small bolt that was inside a long nut and welded both ends. I think it was Blown who did this while extending a 135 hub to a 190 hub. Looked like it worked and was relatively easy.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

GiantTrek said:


> There was a post on here a while back where the axle was cut in half, and a spacer added to the middle. Drilled and tapped both cut ends, added a small bolt that was inside a long nut and welded both ends. I think it was Blown who did this while extending a 135 hub to a 190 hub. Looked like it worked and was relatively easy.


Close! I used a full length axle, and a half of another. Tapped one end of each and use a screw with the head cut off to screw them together. Then I welded them. Worked perfectly.

I used the spacer to widen the hub shell. That worked great too. I'm actually about to do another....


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Is the axle the 3/8" finethread (24 threads per inch) or is it 26TPI? If it's 24TPI (a hardware store 3/8" fine thread nut fits on it) you should be able to use a threaded rod from a hardware store, or use a tap/die and make your own threaded rod. I ask this because a kids bike I have (next) uses a 3/8" finethread axle in back. The front used a 3/8" 26TPI bolt (metric thread bolt 9.5x1.0), which really threw me off when trying to find a bolt.


----------



## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

I used Shimano LX hubs (widened) so the loose ball bearing cups determined my axle thread. I wanna say it was 10mm x 1.0. I used a stainless nut, drilled and tapped because our hardware didn't have the correct size...


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Home Depot sells 10x1.0 nuts. They actually have 3 different thread pitches for 10mm nuts.


----------



## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Closest Home Depot is 50 miles away in Kona Hawaii and they don't have the selection you might be accustomed to. Misc nuts, drill and tap in the lathe. Less than a minute and much cheaper than the $4.35 per gallon of gas.


----------



## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

Could you make one for me???? How much $ would make you happy


----------



## Forheavensakeitsjake (Jan 14, 2014)

*Freewheel*

So I ended up welding my drive shaft back together... I also "disabled" the coaster brake while I was in there. Removed the brake shoes and spring and added some washers. Had to rebuild it a few times to get the right thickness of washers. Final product ended up having 5 stainless steel washers, which were a little thinner than the 3 steel washers I tried first. Works good now. Happy to freewheel


----------



## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

blown240 said:


> Close! I used a full length axle, and a half of another. Tapped one end of each and use a screw with the head cut off to screw them together. Then I welded them. Worked perfectly.
> 
> I used the spacer to widen the hub shell. That worked great too. I'm actually about to do another....


Blown240...could I entice you do make one for me? How much $ would it take?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Wray - Where are you located? Do you need a hub or an axle?


----------



## wrayb (Sep 27, 2008)

blown240 said:


> Wray - Where are you located? Do you need a hub or an axle?


I live in Wilmington, NC. I need an axel.


----------



## wydopen (Jul 5, 2005)

Would anyone happen to know the size/pitch of the crank arm nuts??

I lost one and removed the other to take it to the store to match..now I've somehow misplaced that as well..

Thanks for the help!!


----------



## Electric1 (Mar 11, 2014)

Electric1 checking in and trying to post a picture.... fingers crossed.

View attachment 876156


----------



## wadester (Sep 28, 2005)

wydopen said:


> Would anyone happen to know the size/pitch of the crank arm nuts??
> 
> I lost one and removed the other to take it to the store to match..now I've somehow misplaced that as well..
> 
> Thanks for the help!!


Well, they are a specialty item with the built-in washer, so I think there is only one size: 14mm










Your LBS should have them.


----------



## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

CurtP said:


> I think I'm going to start parting out my Beast. I no longer have the original fork, seat post or seat, so I can't really put it back to stock.


Is your Beast frame for sale? Where are you located?


----------



## CurtP (Mar 2, 2014)

dieseli said:


> Is your Beast frame for sale? Where are you located?


I'm in Virginia Beach, VA. I'll sell it either complete or in parts. I even have fenders for it, but they were set up using a Moonlander fork.

List of mods:
Brooks sprung seat
Thomson laid-back seat post
KCNC seat post QR skewer
Thorn 64 PCD 30T chainring
Big-O Mfg fenders
VR threadless stem (25.4mm. 60mm, 7°)
King NoThreadSet headset
Wipperman 1Z1 chain
YST sealed BSA cupset
Ergon PC2 pedals
TruVativ FiveD cranks w/bashguard
Cruiser handlebars
AME grips
Surly Moonlander fork

It was used for bombing around a beach neighborhood.


----------



## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

How much for the Moonlander fork?


----------



## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

bighit said:


> Just saying,
> View attachment 802100


I like the banana seat sissy bar set up.Very nice.


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Much lighter 120 TPI, ~$70 a pair.


duggus said:


> If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.


http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-7.html#post11068719


----------



## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

They've come to canada in the form of a Schwinn Biggity now, $329 at canadian tire. Red and black color.


----------



## BeastNik (Jan 17, 2014)

*Dolo spotting in Mpls*

$475 will get you a brand new (rumored out of stock) Dolomite in Minneapolis (craigslist).

Now $349 at wally world.

Beast build update: both new hubs laced finally (had to order new spokes, kept spinning flanges I think with spiral pattern), discs mounted, I can get 12 of the 21 gears so far. No big front gear. bout 39 lbs.

That $349 is still looking prety good . . .


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

I did a quick tape-measure dropout spacing check and got 160mm rear and 135 front on the schwinn... have the goose's been the same? Wouldn't a simple hub solution be to use a 10 x 150 DH hub with a Saint axle-mount derailleur (and just spacer out the axle to fit the dropouts) ?


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Blown240

Was that the weight of each tire individually? Or was that for the pair?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

GiantTrek said:


> Blown240
> 
> Was that the weight of each tire individually? Or was that for the pair?


6.4 POUNDS EACH!!!! Heavy stinkin tires! I swapped to Vee Rubber V8s, they are less than half the weight.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Mosquito1 said:


> Looks like the Dolomite is available now!
> 
> 26" Mongoose Men's Dolomite, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com


Looks like they charge a hundred bucks more for it now? This might be what I was waiting for? Anyone have this yet? reviews? thread?


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

spidennis, check out these threads:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/new-geese-way-897692.html


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

FatBikeNoob said:


> spidennis, check out these threads:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/new-geese-way-897692.html


cool, thanks, I'm on it!


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

most people getting the Mongoose Dolomite are upgrading the rear freewheel with this Shimano Megarange to give them more hill climbing power: Shimano Megarange 7sp MTB Freewheel 14 34T MF TZ31 485G | eBay


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## Trailtorque (Apr 27, 2014)

Not sure why, but I ordered a Beast. I think I'll follow Adam Craig's awesome modification plan. Only problem is I can't figure out what kind of cans he used.

Inside the Pro's Bikes with Manuel Beastley's Fat Bike of Glory


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

just posting a pic while i'm here meddling and the threads near the top










this has been sitting tacked together like this for about a month, let alone with no front end. so i don't even know if it'll work yet. nothing i mess with gets built very fast. like i said earlier, i'm making a not too serious version of a lightfoot ranger bigfoot, so i still need to work out the front end.

truthfully, i'm thinking it'll be about like those luxury suv's. all jacked up but the furthest off road it goes is up the curb turning into bloomindales. still fun to fool with though.


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## boogman (May 21, 2012)

saw this on craigs.. does it belong to anyone here?

Beast Mod Snow Bike Parting Out


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> retro direct drive


wtf?

I hope you'll provide a parts list for this, including hub. It's exactly what my Beast needs.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

LOL!

Its actually really easy. Just need 2 freewheels that the threads go all the way thru, and a non drive side bottom bracket cup. The hub is from choppersus.com. Then make an idler that turns the chain in the other direction.
Here are some pics and a video:


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> ... Just need 2 freewheels that the threads go all the way thru, and a non drive side bottom bracket cup...


Freewheels I get, but I'm not understanding why the BB cup is needed (unless to thread the two freewheels together?).

What T did you use for chainring and the freewheels?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The bottom bracket cups holds the freewheels together. The cranks and chainring are just some generic MTB cranks I had laying around. Any you have to use a cruiser style chain. The stock beast chain works, it just needs to be lengthened.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thanks!

What tooth count were the freewheels and chainring?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I think the ring is a 34? The freewheels are a 16 and a 22.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thank you.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

blown240 said:


> I think the ring is a 34? The freewheels are a 16 and a 22.


Keep it coming! I haven't seen anyone do this retro drive for years.

It supposedly also has the benefit of using muscles that are otherwise idling, so it gives the main muscles in your legs a rest while you're in low gear. I never got the knack of it though.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Its fun to ride, just really strange to have a bike that won't roll backwards.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Not sure which gear I'd want to have the forwards vs backwards...


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Not sure which gear I'd want to have the forwards vs backwards...


Wow, Blown240 is that ever "retro". Post WWI.

Wikipedia notes that the originals were as you setup (forward high, backward low), but modern implementations see some setup as backward high for cruising and forward low for climbing.

Finding some with a dual chain-ring front so you have a choice of four gear ratios (one from 1924).

Also, some with a dual chain-ring front, each with their own chain driving their own freewheel in the rear. A few doing that with a chain-ring/freewheel pair on each side of the hub/BB. Means no disc brake though.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Is a pretty rad setup. I'm surprised we don't see if more. Th biggest downside is the bike cannot roll backwards, and there is some drivetrain noise because there is always a freewheel turning backwards. 

W put the low gear pedaling backwards because this bike will be ridden mostly in etched dirt, and we figured on fast downhill, peddling forward will be more comfortable and natural.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

This may be of interest too.

Bicycling News 14 Jul 1939 - Viliers 2 spd


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I spent some time working on version 2 of my front forks last night. It works ok, but still needs a lot of improvement. Right now the travel is 8", which is cool, but it makes the bike way too tall.

Here is a video clip, I need more air in the shock....


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I made a little video of the rear suspension moving during a ride. I thought I would share it since I have had a few people as me how well it works.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

blown240 said:


> I spent some time working on version 2 of my front forks last night. It works ok, but still needs a lot of improvement. Right now the travel is 8", which is cool, but it makes the bike way too tall...


One point to consider is when your links point down like that, heavy braking can cause the bike to rise and lock out or stiffen the suspension. A floating brake linkage can help solve that though.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Velobike said:


> One point to consider is when your links point down like that, heavy braking can cause the bike to rise and lock out or stiffen the suspension. A floating brake linkage can help solve that though.


Thanks! I took this into account when I first planned this fork out. It actually has some brake dive, but not a terrible amount. It still needs some tuning, and I may end up not even using these links at this point.


----------



## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

does anyone have a beast crank and chainring they want to get rid of? i have a dolomite i want to gear lower.


----------



## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

twistedmentality said:


> does anyone have a beast crank and chainring they want to get rid of? i have a dolomite i want to gear lower.


anyone?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

You can get an inexpensive MTB crankset and save some weight if nobody has a beast crankset.


----------



## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

blown240 said:


> You can get an inexpensive MTB crankset and save some weight if nobody has a beast crankset.


Been looking. Had one bought off ebay but seller never shipped and I had to file a dispute.

Finding a single speed square taper crank with a 30-33t chainring has been a challenge. I can find them all day long with a 46t but the smaller chainrings are hard to find on a crank. That combined with the fact I like to spend as little as possible has shown to be a problem.


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

twistedmentality said:


> ...Finding a single speed square taper crank with a 30-33t chainring has been a challenge. ...That combined with the fact I like to spend as little as possible has shown to be a problem.


Why don't you look in the Dolo thread to see what others have put on theirs. Parts available from local bike recyclers too. The Beast arms are steel, the Dolo arms are alloy.
32T may not be enough. Hence a 22T/32T or a 22T/32T/42T, but you only use 22T/32T, and you can switch by hand according to the terrain you're currently riding.


----------



## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Why don't you look in the Dolo thread to see what others have put on theirs. Parts available from local bike recyclers too. The Beast arms are steel, the Dolo arms are alloy.
> 32T may not be enough. Hence a 22T/32T or a 22T/32T/42T, but you only use 22T/32T, and you can switch by hand according to the terrain you're currently riding.


i have been in those forums as well. I already put a shimano mega range on my dolo so i think going down to a 32 chain ring will enough.

bicycle recyclers.. none near me that i know of.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

So its been about 8 months since I made this bike full suspension. Ive ridden it about 150 miles. I have done ZERO maintenance to it, so it was time to give it some attention.

Tonight it got a sealed bottom bracket, triple crankset, Deore XT E-type front derailer, XT rear detailer, XT front shifter, XT brake levers, and some nice fangled cable guides. I love this bike, its as epic as they get. The suspension is still better smooth, the fork its pretty stinkin' good, and its as heavy as a overweight pygmy in a pie eating contest. Here are some pics:

Cable guides:










3 ring crank:























































Old XT!


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## AC/BC (Jun 22, 2006)

blown240 - simply amazing!


----------



## Crazy_Cowboy (Jun 11, 2014)

where can i get that braking system? i have mongoose beast with 2 stroke motor ?


----------



## ModusBeastus (Jun 17, 2014)

*My Beast*

Hi All. I am new here and this is my first post. I am the proud owner of a Mongoose Beast. I have done the following MODs to the bike:
22T Rear Cog
400mm Kalloy Seatpost
Clay Butter BMX Handle Bars
Painted the Rims, Frame, Pedals, and Saddle (Plutonium Spray Paints)
AST BB
KMC Chain in Black and Silver
Vee Rubber Vee 8 72tpi Tires

Near Future MODs:
Free Wheel Hub
Disc Brakes
Pedals
Saddle
Laid Back Seat Post
Gearing


----------



## ModusBeastus (Jun 17, 2014)

Now I just want to ditch the coaster brake, get a free wheel hub, and a simple disc brake set up. Any suggestions?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

There is a mountain of info in this thread on disc brakes. Not necessarily simple, but not too bad. 

Cool looking beast. It looks like an oversize BMX bike!


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## ModusBeastus (Jun 17, 2014)

blown240 said:


> There is a mountain of info in this thread on disc brakes. Not necessarily simple, but not too bad.
> 
> Cool looking beast. It looks like an oversize BMX bike!


Thanks Blown. I appreciate it. I will definitely research more about the disc brake setup.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

ModusBeastus said:


> Thanks Blown. I appreciate it. I will definitely research more about the disc brake setup.


Seeing as there is no rear disc mount, consider using a Sturmey-Archer drum brake. It uses the same sort of brake stop as the coaster brake.

There's several versions eg X-RDC










I've been using these for years. They are good quality hubs and good brakes - but like all cable brakes they need good cables and levers.

As a Beast owner, you'll also appreciate the price.


----------



## ModusBeastus (Jun 17, 2014)

Velobike said:


> Seeing as there is no rear disc mount, consider using a Sturmey-Archer drum brake. It uses the same sort of brake stop as the coaster brake.
> 
> There's several versions eg X-RDC
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion Velobike. Excuse my ignorance but would I have to get a freewheel hub as well or just this piece?


----------



## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

ModusBeastus said:


> Thanks for the suggestion Velobike. Excuse my ignorance but would I have to get a freewheel hub as well or just this piece?


The one pictured comes with a freehub, ie it can take a cassette for gears, or use a single cogs and spacers for a single speed set up.

I'm not sure what the width of the rear axle is on the Beast, but it because it's a steel bike, it can be cold set to change the width, ie pulled out for wider or squeezed in for narrower, This hub is 135mm wide.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The rear of a beast is 170mm.

ModusBeast - Do you plan on adding rear gears in the future? Im asking because you can get a Dolomite at Target for $249 right now. That will give you disc brakes and gears. You won't be able to add them to the beast for much less than that...


----------



## ModusBeastus (Jun 17, 2014)

blown240 said:


> The rear of a beast is 170mm.
> 
> ModusBeast - Do you plan on adding rear gears in the future? Im asking because you can get a Dolomite at Target for $249 right now. That will give you disc brakes and gears. You won't be able to add them to the beast for much less than that...


I may do gears later on but not sure. This bike is just a beach cruiser for me. I don't see myself doing any trail riding, but maybe a little sand cruising when I get the chance. 
Darn, $250 for the Dolomite. I kinda of wish I waited. My beast was $199. I could have gotten disc brakes and gears for $50 more. That's a great deal.


----------



## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

*n/a*

wrong link.


----------



## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

textbookonewk said:


> My build
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice clean build, what crank/chainring set-up? are you running sealed BB.


----------



## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

*Two beat up Beasts, what next?*

These I got from a rental group, free! I've been wanting a fat bike and now I got two, but two dead ones. Tires are in good enough condition but the cranks are toast (I think).

My goal would be to have one operational bike and convert the other into a trailer that I can tow to the beach with gear then ride on the beach with. Having two 4.7" tires for the trailer will be fantastic!

Any ideas, concerns and suggestions?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Check the bottom bracket bearings first. I doubt they had any maintenance as rental bikes. GOOD SCORE!


----------



## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

the cranks are toast ….


----------



## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

so where can I get new parts to replace the entire crank assembly? 

I'm thinking I should try and fix one, and use the other set of wheels for a trailer.


----------



## liquidboarder2k4 (Jul 28, 2013)

https://fatbeachbikes.com/TommiSea_...sories/22-122-mm-sealed-bottom-bracket-detail

They are 120mm bottom brackets

unlike the average fat bike which is 100mm


----------



## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

Yep my forks bent. That's the reason why I was having a hard time getting the wheel in. One leg looked off and sure enough it is. I got to bend it back now.

How did you bend it back? Think i have the same problem.


----------



## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

liquidboarder2k4 said:


> https://fatbeachbikes.com/TommiSea_...sories/22-122-mm-sealed-bottom-bracket-detail
> 
> They are 120mm bottom brackets
> 
> unlike the average fat bike which is 100mm


I asked Pacific Cycle what the specs were and she said something like 117mm? Anyway I ordered the oem part and will grease it well.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

I made this trailer out of one of the beasts that I have. I will try and repair the other one. I did notice the bearings in the wheels of the trailer are noisy so I got to grease them up well soon before they die on me.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Can anyone confirm what gears are currently coming with the Beast? I know they were 36 and 18 when it came out.....but I have seen some posts indicating it might have changed.


Also, can someone post part numbers for sprockets that they have successfully modified the Beast with? I just want easy pedaling cruiser fun on hard packed sand. Thanks


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

I bought one in November of last year and it was 36. Then another one in February of this year and it had 32. Both had 18t on the rear.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

xobloof said:


> I bought one in November of last year and it was 36. Then another one in February of this year and it had 32. Both had 18t on the rear.


Thanks!

How was the difference? Is it still only good for flat paved surfaces or do you think it would be ok on hard packed sand with the 32? I'm not looking to race this thing, just to have fun cruising around to, from, and on the beach.


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

How are these handling on trails AFTER mods? Pics? I'm trying to locate just a frame to build.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

I went 32x20 which is perfect for me. I have done trails, hills, snow, sand all just fine. 

If I lived somewhere flat and just kept it on the street, i probably wouldn't gear down at all. But we have hills here and I have to go over them to get to work.

Also gearing down gives the more modulation on the brakes too.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tonygeo said:


> How are these handling on trails AFTER mods? Pics? I'm trying to locate just a frame to build.


I've got a Beast and a Dolo. Although the Beast is somewhat larger, I find the Dolo a lot more robust. IMHO
Disc brakes (cheap ones) to start too.

You might look over in the dolo thread:


Moike said:


> ... I'd rather toss the whole damn thing and start over with something that isn't a rolling heap out of the box...


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

Canoe said:


> I've got a Beast and a Dolo. Although the Beast is somewhat larger, I find the Dolo a lot more robust. IMHO
> Disc brakes (cheap ones) to start too.
> 
> You might look over in the dolo thread:


I'd take it and build it from scratch lol


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Let him know and arrange something before someone beats you to it or he changes his mind.


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Let him know and arrange something before someone beats you to it or he changes his mind.


Too late! The search continues!


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## ratepc (Aug 17, 2014)

I'm really considering getting one of these bikes. When I was younger, I used to LOVE riding bikes. In college, I used to ride my bike to class every day.

But one day about 8 years ago, I got too heavy and bent my back rim I was about 330 lbs at the time. I went to a local bike store and bought the strongest rear wheel they had, and about 2 months later I bent that one too. And I gave up on biking, gave up on doing something that I loved that was good exercise for me.

Of course, that only made things worse. I recently caught myself as high as 450 lbs, and had to do something. I've been busting my rear for the past 2 months to lose weight, and I believe I'm down around 400 lbs at this point (there was a bunch of water weight to lose early on).

For 8 years I've wanted to get back on a bike, and I've been jealous of those I see on it. Then imagine my surprise and excitement to see the Mongoose Beast in Walmart today. I got on it, and rode it up and down the aisle. It felt GREAT. But I'm so worried about it supporting my weight long term. :-\

So my question to all of you Beast owners out there is two fold. 

First, how strong are the wheels that come on the bike? I understand that not many people my size will even consider a bike, but if there's someone out there around, say, 300-330lbs that can tell me they have rode off curves or off-road with no issue, that would make me feel better.

Second, if the rim ever did break, what are the aftermarket replacement options like for getting a stronger wheel? Since the wheel is wider I would assume that it spreads the weight out better, so a double walled wheel of that size would likely work great - if it exists.

I'm really ready to pull the trigger on this bike, but it's not easy for me to throw away $200 if it doesn't work out.

Help me out here, what do you think?

Edit: I should add, I will be riding this on flat pavement for exercise. Nothing too crazy and I live in Florida where hills just don't exist.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ratepc said:


> I'm really considering getting one of these bikes.
> First, how strong are the wheels that come on the bike?
> Second, if the rim ever did break, what are the aftermarket replacement options like for getting a stronger wheel?
> Edit: I should add, I will be riding this on flat pavement for exercise.


Rather than a comprehensive response, I'm going to throw some things out there, just to 'talk" out loud.

The wheels/rim will spread the load out over a larger area. Both for riding loads and for impact loads. The huge air volume of a fat tire is wonderful for cushioning loads.

A better tire will be less effort to pedal (120 tpi). This benefit is covered in many posts. It is an extra expense, but a decent (not top end) tire, along with a lighter weight tube, makes for a much more enjoyable ride. The most popular all around tire seems to be the On-One Floater. The stock tires can be used for now.

The Dolomite, $250, has a stronger frame, has gears and has disc brakes. The frame won't be as strong as most of the "real" fat bikes, but it is stronger than the Beast. Beast spokes are 1.6mm and the Dolo spokes are 1.8mm.

Gears mean you can select a pedaling effort that is closer to an optimum for exercise, without undue wear & tear on yourself.

Disc brakes - the ones on the Dolo aren't the best, but they have more stopping power than the coaster brake on the Beast. Heavier weights need more stopping power. For heavier riders, I believe it would be worthwhile for safety to invest in BB7 disc brakes, even in a single BB7 disc brake if money is tight. Normally the better/larger brake goes on the front wheel, but perhaps like tandem and cargo, a single BB7 should be on the stronger mount, the rear. The wheel is dished to take a 160mm. I don't know if it would take a larger disc without needing redishing.

The hubs are not top quality. I would not expect them to last "forever", particularly when under a heavy load. It will be very important - to get the most life out of them - to have someone clean out the grease them come with and get a quality grease completely packed in there (lubes, protects, blocks water/dirt, conducts heat away), and the cone tension set absolutely correctly. BEFORE ANYONE ever rides the bike. You want the bearings to seat correctly - to be able to take the load, and to last as long as possible.

To this end, you can buy it online and have it shipped to a store without a shipping cost. That way it's in the box and no one has ridden it. There are some reports of trashed hubs, stripped bolts and the like, but they are rare. It is common to have the front hub bearings too tight, but you don't ride it like that, as you're getting the hubs regreased and set properly before you ride.

You're also going to want to get the replacement/upgrade cup & bearings for the bottom bracket, fully packed like the hubs. $10 part. Not needed right away, but do this before you trash the spindle and need to replace that too.

When the hubs fail, you can get replacement hubs (better quality) and get the wheels rebuilt with optimum spokes. The rims should be fine. There is some debate on which type of spoke, double butted or straight spokes are best for heavy riders, but look for Clydesdale (= heavy rider) posts and posts on parts for tandem bikes. That can be worked out when needed. A quality LBS can cut & roll spokes to whatever custom length you end up needing.

My Beast come with reasonably tensioned spokes. My Dolomite came with amazingly well tensioned Spokes, and the spokes were set too. Having a correctly built wheel is *key to their strength*. Have someone inspect and correct their tension.

I'm reminded of my 260 lbs. friend on his under 20 lbs carbon fibre road bike - he rides very gently each spring until he gets some weight off. It may be appropriate, for bike longevity, not breaking it, and not wearing your self out, to ride gently.

The Dolo thread is over here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html
There's some crap at the beginning, so don't waste time on that, just stick to the bike facts.

You're likely going to want a different seat.

P.S.
I own a Beast and a Dolo.


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## Mr BadWrench (Oct 24, 2013)

Dammit, when did the Dolomite drop to $250? I see they are out of stock now.

I recommend the dolomite if only for the brakes and the freewheel. its worth the extra cash.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Someone at another site grabbed a screen shot of the Dolo at $219. $250 and soldout online right now, which usually means either a new shipment is on the way, or they're sitting on them until the "new" price comes out. There are other sources too. WM = free shipping, to home or the store of your choice.


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## ratepc (Aug 17, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Rather than a comprehensive response, I'm going to throw some things out there, just to 'talk" out loud.


Thanks a BUNCH for all of that information. Very helpful!


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Mr BadWrench said:


> Dammit, when did the Dolomite drop to $250? I see they are out of stock now.
> 
> I recommend the dolomite if only for the brakes and the freewheel. its worth the extra cash.


Actually, in store for me it was $225 yet online it said $250.

I had to drive 3.5 hours south to pick mine up.. but well worth it (I love it nearly as much as the beast).


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> Actually, in store for me it was $225 yet online it said $250.
> I had to drive 3.5 hours south to pick mine up..


Yes, you've posted that before.
Buying one in a store is not a good idea for him.
He needs one that the store has not "assembled" and no one has ridden, so he can get the hubs (& preferably bottom bracket & headset) cleaned out, fully lubed and properly adjusted, so the bearings will last.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

Great advice from Canoe and others for ratepc.

FWIW, I'm a big guy at 6'1" about 256 lbs and I upgraded the rear spokes on my 29er to DT Swiss Alpine 3 spokes after breaking 13 spokes on my many trips. I have not had broken spoke since.

Their strongest spokes. DT Swiss - DT alpine III


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

What tools are needed to properly service and build a beast being delivered to me, not assembled in store?

Part numbers would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking specific bike tools like how to get to the bearings (bracket, wheels, headset) and how to tighten / check the spokes.

I already have ordered a 22t rear cog, chain, lighter tires, and lighter tubes.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I used standard tool chest tools to assemble my bike. Nothing special on my end.


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## fat beastard (Aug 20, 2014)

I too am a big guy, 6'1" 255 and have had my beast for 5 months. (I was bigger when I got it) I have had no issues.

the above threads are dead on, disassemble it clean it and grease it and you should have no issues.

Just watch put you are going to want to modify it almost immediately.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Thanks. I'm going to change to a 22T cog, lighter tires, and tubes, and maybe handlebars. 

I just want to make sure I have the correct tools to open up the bottom bracket, headset, etc and grease them up properly.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Just_Cruisin said:


> I just want to make sure I have the correct tools to open up the bottom bracket, headset, etc and grease them up properly.


The problem is, it 's not just a matter of mechanical re-assembly. You have to get the tension correct, or you'll have a poor ride while trashing the bearings. And that's after NOT getting dirt into the grease. Get it wrong and you can end up needing to replace: cup, bearings & spindle; headset cup & bearings; hubs! So someone giving you a list of tools without your knowing how to do the job, would be a disservice. Likely why no one's done so.

Can someone learn how to do it online? I don't know (I was taught with everything in front of me). But the links follow. Search online for other how-to writeups, or videos. Don't rely on one source, as you don't know what they, or you, did or didn't pick up on? Worst case? You give the LBS money to fix it, or trash the bike.

You'd _likely_ get away with just topping up the grease - if it's clean. The proper way is to remove the old grease, clean everything, then apply new grease. This also means you're not mixing different types of grease; sometimes they do not play well together. Fully packed with grease = no room for dirt & water, and good heat removal from the bearings for a longer life.

The headset is straight forward if you're just topping up the grease, with more work if you're going to clean out the old grease first. You're not replacing races and such, but here's that link. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threaded Headset Service

For the adjustable bottom bracket (cup, bearings & spindle) you can start here. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Adjustable Type Bottom Bracket Service
And you'll have to pull a crank arm or two. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Installation and Removal- Square Spindle Type
Those should also suffice if you upgrade the cup & bearings. 
Straight forward to do, The issue is getting the tension correct, then getting it locked in place without changing that tension. It can be done without the "right" tools, but did you get it right or when done are the bearings slightly tighter or looser, and is that tension going to back off and let the parts slap around.

Hubs. Cone & cup adjustment is crucial. Get it right - your weight is on it. 
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment

You don't need top quality tools for a one-time or once-a-year use. But...
To save a trip to the bike co-op, I got a set of off-brand double-ended cone wrenches. They work; they're loose; they flex (changing the opening size...); they're difficult to use and a pain to use; they waste my time. The old-school flat plate multi-wrench would work much better. With the Park Tools SCW set at the bike co-op, as in the past, I wouldn't even have noticed the tool, just got the job done. You don't need a full set; I don't recall the size you need. I haven't used their double-ended ones, but I would expect them to be fine (you're not using these every second day, so you don't _need_ the rubber coated handles).


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

I bought a cheap bike toolset on Nashbar for about $30 (slickdeal thing) and then learned by taking apart bikes that were laying around. Before asking a million questions on forums I went to YouTube and THAT is a fantastic resource.

This is my kit and it's had everything (so far) that I've needed. There's actually a couple tools I'm clueless about lol
http://nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/mProduct4_10052_10053_524452_-1_catNav

I LIKE BIKES


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

By the way...









I LIKE BIKES


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## rmc50 (Sep 4, 2014)

xobloof said:


> I went 32x20 which is perfect for me. I have done trails, hills, snow, sand all just fine.


I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.

Can you tell me the details I need to make the change you did? Like, what do I need to know to order the front & rear chain sprockets?

Thanks
Rod


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rmc50 said:


> I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.


Run your tires at 15 lbs on the hard stuff.
Try 8 lbs if there's lots of dust laying around.
You'll enjoy upgraded tires a lot. Go 120 tpi. 
Get, and use, a lock.

There's a 5mph speed limit on the playa.
All you need is a larger cog in the rear.
Look back through the threads to see which one seems to make the most sense to you.
Or, look back on how to do the dual cog mod, so you can mess people up when they see you pedaling backwards while you go forwards...


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

rmc50 said:


> I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.
> 
> Can you tell me the details I need to make the change you did? Like, what do I need to know to order the front & rear chain sprockets?
> 
> ...


The rear is super easy. Just pull off the rear wheel, then get a small screwdriver and pop the round retaining clip off of the rear cog.

The front was a little more of a pain. I ordered a shimano 3x crank set. The right arm worked fine, but I was unable to use the left arm with the beast spindle. So I just use the stock left arm and the shimano right arm. I did buy a crank arm puller for this job, and also repacked the BB while I was at it.

I ran the stock shimano 32t middle ring for a while, then later I replaced it with a surly 32t ring. Both worked fine.

Unfortunately I broke the driver this weekend so now I am searching for a new rear hub.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

So I broke the driver a few weeks ago. Right at the weld where all the others break. I had about 320 mile on it when it broke, and I mash up some pretty big hills. (32x20)

While looking for a replacement hub I came across the spec sheet for a Sun Crusher fat bike which uses the same rear hub. Down at the bottom of the page was this

"""
Service Parts Description
Hub Rear Part KT One-Piece Coaster Brake Driver for 170mm Hub
"""

So it looks like they have changed the driver manufacturing method.

I also found a whole hub assembly online for about $35 and it just arrived today. I opened it up and it had no weld on the driver. I am going to try just swapping the driver from the new hub to the original one so I don't have to re-lace the rim.

I have two beasts (one for me and one for the GF). Mine came with at 36t chain ring, ordered Nov '13. The GFs came with a 32t chain ring, ordered Feb '14. I am wondering if the newer 32t versions also have the upgraded driver. I have yet to open up the GFs rear hub and check. Can anyone confirm this suspicion?

Keep on Klunkin'

ETA:

The new hub part number is 'KT-319R'
KTs website lists it as a tricycle hub
::: WELCOME TO KT :::


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

And how about a pic for good measure.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I want to get my girl a beast too.. She likes mine a lot but I hate adjusting the seat for her all the time..


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Here are specs on everything I have done so far.

Green Beast "Dusty" (mine)
Shimano Crank arm (Right only)
Surly 32t chain ring
VP-747 Pedals (Green)
20t rear sprocket
Devistator Tires
Kalloy 28.6x400mm seatpost
Brooks Aged Flyer
KMC 610 chain
Pro Taper SE Trials Mid Bars (815mm wide)
ODI Vans bolt on grips
Redline chain tensioner (Black)
I also have a set of ape hangers with "Hulk Hands" on them

Red Beast "Sandy" (girlfriends)
VP-747 Pedals (Red)
20t rear sprocket
Sunlite Gold Tec Front rack
Sunlite Willow Bushel Basket
Avenir Classic Cruiser Saddle
Avenir Adjustable Stem
Torker Boardwalk Cruiser Bars
XLC Foam Grips
PDW Cup Holder
KMC 610 chain
Redline chain tensioner (Red)
Streamers (red / silver) (daytime)
Streamers (Fiber Optic RGB LED) (nighttime)

Blue Beast (Works)
VP-747 Pedals (Blue)
20t rear sprocket
Turbo Spoke Exhaust
Sunlite D-Cruiser 32x25x7/8 Handlebars
Blue Grips
Banana Seat 
Sissy Bar
Motorcycle rear view mirror clamps on seat stay for sissy bar
"Haters" Decal

Black Brutus (Co-Workers)
I think he has ape hangers on it now.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Those look like fun!

How's the banana seat supports onto the seat stays working out?


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Canoe said:


> Those look like fun!
> 
> How's the banana seat supports onto the seat stays working out?


So far so good. I weigh 210lbs and it holds me just fine. I sit at the very back of the seat with that setup.


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## FATALBERT333 (Oct 30, 2013)

*Update on FatAlbert*


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## tinman57 (May 21, 2013)

*Rear drive finally broke*

My sons rear drive just broke today, is wally world or Pacific Cycles still warrantying parts? If not how is the Wide Hub Low Flange for $30 at ChopperUS?

Has anybody tried re welding at the break? It obvious that the original weld did not get decent penetration so a nice tight tig weld should work fine unless it changes the (if any) hardness of the steel.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

I just replaced a broken driver by ordering a replacement hub online (not from pacific). It was about $35. I only used the new donor hubs driver. 

The hub part number is KT-319R. Its driver is one piece, ie no weld.

I did send pacific an email and received a canned response, but have not heard any real response. I think people have had better luck calling them.


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## tinman57 (May 21, 2013)

Thank you, I'm going to re-weld it and see how that goes.


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## tubameat (Oct 18, 2014)

FWIW, i just snapped my driver for the 2nd time. i replaced the first one with the unit from choppers and then that one broke too. i suspect finding a driver that can handle the extra torque required to get the beast rolling quickly is impossible. i will either have the broken one re-welded or have a machinist make me a new one out of quality metal. 
i did try to get a replacement from pacific cycles and i had no success. ;-(

steve in DC


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## tubameat (Oct 18, 2014)

did you re-weld? how did it go?


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

tubameat said:


> FWIW, i just snapped my driver for the 2nd time. i replaced the first one with the unit from choppers and then that one broke too. i suspect finding a driver that can handle the extra torque required to get the beast rolling quickly is impossible. i will either have the broken one re-welded or have a machinist make me a new one out of quality metal.
> i did try to get a replacement from pacific cycles and i had no success. ;-(
> 
> steve in DC


Was the choppers driver welded? Or was it a 1 piece driver?


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## tubameat (Oct 18, 2014)

xobloof said:


> Was the choppers driver welded? Or was it a 1 piece driver?


dunno yet. ill keep you posted as soon as i take it apart and see. i think theres a guy in this thread above who said his replacement was one piece.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Here is a shot of the original broken driver, and the 1 piece replacement driver.


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## rschreck (Aug 11, 2014)

GiantTrek said:


> View attachment 863045
> 
> 
> Fabed up a heavy duty break strap as the original broke.


Holy **** that weld is terrible. And then look at all the undercut on the top weld.


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## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

*Beast for cheap winter commuting*

Hi guys,

First thanks all for your input on this bike.

I bought my Beast a month ago and plan to use it for daily commuting to work in winter.

I needed a cheap bike because I can't really take care of my bike and there is a lot of bike theft here. I also wanted to try out fatbikes to see if it's easier to ride in snow.

So the beast came naturally: cheap, simple (no cables, derailleur or external brakes).
Seemed like the perfect fit for the job.

First, I had to came to a US Walmart since it can't be shipped to a Canadian Walmart.
Tried the bike on concrete and well... Sure it feels heavy but I had worst expectations from what I read around the web.

Now for my specific needs:

I bought Big O Mfg fenders. I know they cost the price of the bike but I needed something sturdy and that really keeps me clean.

I read that some parts need to be greased or checked before riding the bike.
I'm quite new to servicing bikes so I took some pictures to check with you guys if it's okay.







































So I wonder what you think ?
Is the default grease enough ?
I changed it in the front wheel but not on the back as it seemed more difficult.

I saw that the part on the fourth picture was welded on some bike and could broke easily.

It seems mine is in one piece !

I'm also looking into mounting a complete chain case but the 51 cm between the two axes seems to be too much for all the chaincases I saw. So, I'm gonna try to make a custom one.

I wonder if you guys have any advice regarding running this bike in winter on the road ?

Regards.


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## wadejesu (Oct 24, 2014)

Where do you bike parts & accessories for the beast?


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)




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## tubameat (Oct 18, 2014)

i just got a replacement driver from Mongoose. looks like they upgraded the part to a single piece, no-weld unit!


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Pacific Cycle finally got back to me about my broken driver. They just sent me a whole new wheel. I haven't opened it up yet, but I suspect it is also a one piece driver.


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## tubameat (Oct 18, 2014)

that was exactly my situation. they sent me a whole new wheel too. i opened up the hub and the driver in mine was one piece. they were very helpful (and fast!)! 
we'll see if the one-piece driver can stand up to my hard riding. 
the old ones (i broke two of them) broke when i was accelerating HARD from a dead stop.


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## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

Ahh, cool. From your last post I was thinking they just sent you a driver.


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## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

After seeing the Beast in person and reading lots of reviews and mods on it I decided to get one. Stripped the Beast down to the bare frame and applied frame saver because I wanted the Beast to last for at least a few winter seasons here in MN because it'll be my main commuter. Like everyone else had mentioned, hubs were too tight, no grease on BB and actually I had to rebuild the BB with new bearings because one bearing was damaged. Here's the mod list:

Bontrager stem and handlebar with stock grips
Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter 
Origin8 saddle
Shimano crank arms with Race Face 32t chainring
CrankBros eggbeaters
45nrth Husker Du tires
SKS M.O.M rear fender
20t cog

What I noticed on mine was the coaster brake spindle/shaft is a one piece and the crankset came with a 32t chainring. So far I'm having a blast with this Beast and I'll post up a picture in a bit here.


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## elee (Nov 13, 2014)




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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

elee said:


> After seeing the Beast in person and reading lots of reviews and mods on it I decided to get one. Stripped the Beast down to the bare frame and applied frame saver because I wanted the Beast to last for at least a few winter seasons here in MN because it'll be my main commuter. Like everyone else had mentioned, hubs were too tight, no grease on BB and actually I had to rebuild the BB with new bearings because one bearing was damaged. Here's the mod list:
> 
> Bontrager stem and handlebar with stock grips
> Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter
> ...


You should have got the dolomite for the brakes and gears. I love my beast but couldn't imagin it as a daily commuter


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

elee said:


>


That does look great tho! Love the black wheels. I'd love those on my red beast!


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## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

I'm used to riding singlespeed as I've been riding fixed for 2.5yrs now. I leave the gears for racing and training road rides.


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## phillyhorse (Nov 18, 2014)

*Newbie biker*

I'm new to this but I've tackled most of the mods listed, just wanted to know has Anybody think of using this fork 26er Sand Snow Fat Bike Bicycle MTB Tapered Steerer MTB thru Axle Carbon Fork | eBay I've already purchased this Amazon.com : LVWA 3k full Carbon fiber MTB Bike handlebar+stem, HB031L (620mm*90mm) : Sports & Outdoors I was thinking these 2 together would be pretty nice


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That fork won't fit the frame. The steerer tube is tapered, meaning the bottom is 1-1/4 inches. Its made for a tapered head tube. And its a thru axle, so you would have to replace your front hub to a thru axle type.


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## phillyhorse (Nov 18, 2014)

blown240 said:


> That fork won't fit the frame. The steerer tube is tapered, meaning the bottom is 1-1/4 inches. Its made for a tapered head tube. And its a thru axle, so you would have to replace your front hub to a thru axle type.


Thanks for the info, I think I'll just throw my bars on and a cantilever for the front and move on to something from bikes direct since they're having a good sell now.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

elee said:


> I'm used to riding singlespeed as I've been riding fixed for 2.5yrs now. I leave the gears for racing and training road rides.


Oh sweet! Any brake upgrades or leave it as is?


----------



## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> Oh sweet! Any brake upgrades or leave it as is?


I'm going to leave the coaster on it til it goes out then either go fixed or singlespeed. I did take it out to do a little bit of singletrack and was lots of fun and dangerous with the coaster brake lol. Going back this weekend and learn to ride the Beast.


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

My beast with 4" fenders from Big O Mfg.
If you want to order some, I suggest you take the 5" ones as the 4" are a little too tight around the tire.

I had to bend the front bracket as it was rubbing against the tire.









Otherwise good stuff, really helps staying (almost) clean in slush.

Beast is fun to ride in city but I tried a snowy path and I was almost out of breath after 10 minutes ! Could use 1 or 2 gears to help get past this.

I sometime feel like the drivetrain is slippy ! This is weird as it doesn't happen all the time. It's like something is not well screwed inside the weel or the gear slip around the axle.

Anyone having this ?


----------



## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

How much were the fenders and what gearing are you running? I don't seem to have too much trouble in the snow with my Beast but I did upgrade my tires and running on 32/18 for gearing.


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## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

135$ for the fenders (custom kit) + shipping. I think I have the same gearing. I guess it feels different for everyone. I am not a big rider, just use my bike to go around town. It feels okay most of the time but when a lot of snow has just fallen it's more of a challenge !


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## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

If it's stock then most likely it's 36/18 which will be tough in snow.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

gorman2040 said:


> 135$ for the fenders (custom kit) + shipping. I think I have the same gearing. I guess it feels different for everyone. I am not a big rider, just use my bike to go around town. It feels okay most of the time but when a lot of snow has just fallen it's more of a challenge !


So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
That does not make any sens to me


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

tartosuc said:


> So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
> That does not make any sens to me


Makes sense if he wants to stay dry.


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

Larry Endomorph said:


> Makes sense if he wants to stay dry.


Exactly, I first thought of doing a kit myself but I didn't have the tools and the time to do it plus I'm sure I'll have ended with something weaker in terms of durability.

I'm sure I'll get ROI in saving clothes I otherwise would have ruined 

So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

gorman2040 said:


> So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?


do the pedals slip individual of each other, or together? could be the rear cog isn't installed exactly straight, so it slips on the hub. Or a broken driver. Or if its just 1 side, maybe one of the crank arms had a rounded square taper.


----------



## xobloof (Dec 31, 2006)

gorman2040 said:


> Exactly, I first thought of doing a kit myself but I didn't have the tools and the time to do it plus I'm sure I'll have ended with something weaker in terms of durability.
> 
> I'm sure I'll get ROI in saving clothes I otherwise would have ruined
> 
> So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?


Have you serviced the rear hub?

I would check out the retarder spring. 
Bicycle Coaster Brakes

Just a guess.


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

blown240 said:


> do the pedals slip individual of each other, or together? could be the rear cog isn't installed exactly straight, so it slips on the hub. Or a broken driver. Or if its just 1 side, maybe one of the crank arms had a rounded square taper.


Thanks for the heads up and link guys.
Yep I serviced the rear hub and this is probably the problem.
I'll check it ASAP.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

tartosuc said:


> So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
> That does not make any sens to me


I never get why people have such a mindset like this.. Because I have a $199 bike I can not ride it in the rain?? Or on wet roads? Or the beach (in the tide)?

End of the day a bike is wheels on a frame hooked up to a chain. How expensive the bike is has no relation to any additions.


----------



## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Just finished my Schwinn Biggity version rebuild, total expense including buying the damn thing was $400 cdn. 38.9 pounds now, canti's, 34/18 singlespeed.


----------



## phillyhorse (Nov 18, 2014)

*new kid on the block*

2015 model is out now hopefully walmart will have it for cheaper

http://m.*****sportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=54550416


----------



## Crosley8 (Apr 24, 2014)

Does anyone know what type of handlebars are on Manuel Beastleys fat bike of fury?The bike mag article says 770mm flat-track moto bars.Was wondering if they were bicycle or motorcycle bars.It looks like Manuel is using the stock handlebar stem and the bars that fit that would be 7/8"
Thanks


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## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

New upgrades for the Beast:
Sunline carbon bar
Globe grips
VeeTire SnowShoe 26x4.5 120tpi
Bontrager 26x2.3/2.5 tubes


----------



## geeze (May 31, 2012)

anyone know how the ***** extended warranty plan works? Similar to the one that Wallmart has? Where if you have an issue with the bike, for the most part they will refund your money, and tell you to destroy the bike (no return required?)


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## Crosley8 (Apr 24, 2014)

I found that the bars are actually motorcycle bars.7/8" flat track off an early honda vr600rs.Although the bars may have been on other bikes.30inches wide (770mm) and if you look closely at the bike mag beastley article the kill switch is right next to the brake lever.Very clever Manuel Beastly.


----------



## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

For a second I thought it was a bell lol good find.


----------



## ND Eric (Dec 8, 2014)

Has anyone tried to fit a Bud and Lou combo on the beast?


----------



## elee (Nov 13, 2014)

Merry Christmas to all my Beast owners.


----------



## ND Eric (Dec 8, 2014)

Santa brought my beast some new Bulldozers! Merry Christmas!


----------



## Deuceygoose (Dec 16, 2014)

whats up guys? New to the site! Ive had a Dozer for about a year, and its been a blast. I've been reading this thread, and have been modding everything out! I'm super excited. Here are some pics.



















sorry the pics are sideways. I just ordered a Sturmey Archer RK3, so I'm pretty pumped about that.





















Here are my attempts to run tubeless. Im just going to do the split tire setup with 20x3.0 stingray tires. I have so surly Nates to throw on them as well.

Heres my frame ready to be stripped down to the metal!







ill keep you guys updated. Also throwing a BB7 in the rear!


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## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

elee said:


> If it's stock then most likely it's 36/18 which will be tough in snow.


I forget to reply to this. I'm running stock gearing and it is 32/18.


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

Seems this thread is loosing momentum !

Anyway, I'll share my thoughts after riding the beast for quite some time.

I ran 2*7 kms (2*4.3 mi) everyday to get to work.
I experienced a lot of different conditions (fresh snow, ice, slush, clean road).
I can say it's really nice in fresh snow (not too deep), not very useful on ice (a little better with the extra contact surface but still slippy) and worst on slush (slush stick to the tire and you need extra effort to move).

I really like my Big'O MFG fenders.
I swapped the 4" tubes for 2.4" specialized tubes (700 grs V.S 200 grs). They seems to hold up for now.
I'm still seeking lighter tires at a bargain and my 22 tooth rear sprocket but it's rideable as is. It's just demanding depending on the conditions.

Yesterday I took off the bottom bracket and saw there was no grease (I didn't check this part after buying) The result was a busted bearing. Some balls were event missing bits. So I changed the balls, put some grease and it was way better


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Hopefully before you trash your spindle and need a replacement, you might want to get the YST cup & bearings set. And BB shell & spindle fully cleaned and regreased, and fully packed with grease so there's no room for contaminants to get inside easily.

See "Bottom Bracket Cup & Bearings" in this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049091


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Hopefully before you trash your spindle and need a replacement, you might want to get the YST cup & bearings set. And BB shell & spindle fully cleaned and regreased, and fully packed with grease so there's no room for contaminants to get inside easily.
> 
> See "Bottom Bracket Cup & Bearings" in this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049091


Thanks for the info, the spindle is okay. I will check these parts more often from now on !


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Okay, so if a person was getting a bit more serious about buying one of these piles but wanted a single speed, would you be better off going with the beast or converting a Dolo? 

I guess what I'm most curious about would be the coaster brake, not sure how well it'd hold up.

If my parents would let me have another bike in the garage, I'd already have one or the other. I think it'd be fun to strip the frame and paint it along with the rims, maybe put some floaters or V8's on it.


----------



## Mosquito1 (Mar 6, 2007)

Given the option, I would go Dolomite and convert to single. That way you have the brake setup, and the gears would be available too should you want them.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

This is your best bit for what you want:

Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - SingleSpeed MTB - Gravity Deadeye Monster


----------



## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Yeah, I think you're probably right...


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

Shinkers said:


> Okay, so if a person was getting a bit more serious about buying one of these piles but wanted a single speed, would you be better off going with the beast or converting a Dolo?
> 
> I guess what I'm most curious about would be the coaster brake, not sure how well it'd hold up.
> 
> If my parents would let me have another bike in the garage, I'd already have one or the other. I think it'd be fun to strip the frame and paint it along with the rims, maybe put some floaters or V8's on it.


I had the same project: budget fat bike for winter commuting (the less the parts the better). I was looking for single speed or internal geared hub and coaster brake. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have disk brake on the front.

In fact I need a dutch fat bike 

The coaster brake is okay for commuting but could be dangerous if you need to be stable on the pedals. You could brake without noticing. It happened to me.

blow240 link is very interesting. Too bad I don't live in the US :-/


----------



## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

xobloof said:


> So I broke the driver a few weeks ago. Right at the weld where all the others break. I had about 320 mile on it when it broke, and I mash up some pretty big hills. (32x20)
> 
> While looking for a replacement hub I came across the spec sheet for a Sun Crusher fat bike which uses the same rear hub. Down at the bottom of the page was this
> 
> ...


Thank you, Sir, you saved my Fat Wally! Just like many others, I broke the driver in the hub while hard pedaling uphill. The KT-319R hub sold by Bikewagon has indeed a single-piece driver that will hopefully last longer than that POS welded one.


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

I found something strange with my specialized 2.3 tube. It doesn't inflate evenly.
Did you guys had the same issue ? I can feel a flat point on my wheel when i'm riding. I did not notice it until I changed the original beast tires for some 120tpi Vee Snowshoe.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

A word of caution on overly drilled rims:

I had one that stared to fail this weekend! The spoke tension is pulling the rim towards the center and there isn't enough meat to keep the aluminum from bending. This is on the triangle holes rim.










The rims I have with the 1.5" holes are holding up fine.


----------



## stormscrambler (Aug 8, 2014)

just picked up a beast, started to some mods on it, drilling rims and am going to make some adaptors for rim brakes, will post some pics soon


----------



## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

gorman2040 said:


> Seems this thread is loosing momentum !
> 
> Anyway, I'll share my thoughts after riding the beast for quite some time.
> 
> ...


I have a couple sealed direct replacements still available...


----------



## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Yes, it started as a beast...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I love bikes that started as a Beast!


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

chopsmitty said:


> I have a couple sealed direct replacements still available...


Where can I find more info on this?


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

You'd have to pm Chopsmitty for that. I think he made them from scratch. Tommisea bikes sells a decent BB for $40 that works on a Beast with a couple spacers. Seen on this thread way back page 20 maybe. https://www.fatbeachbikes.com/Tommi...sories/22-122-mm-sealed-bottom-bracket-detail WOW on sale for $20!-- But out of stock-- I recommend Beastriders with stock BB get this if it becomes available 7/1/15.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The tommisea seems like a good deal, but I have a feeling that the chopsmitty one is much higher quality. I haven't seen either, but judging by his pics, his work is outstanding.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Anyone in Canada looking to get a Beast, beware of Walmart Canada's offering the single speed _*Huffy Wicket Moose*_ for $298 CAD. 
Walmart Canada









I saw it in a store the other day. Before you buy, take a good look at how the seat stays are attached to the seat tube. I wouldn't want any air, and I'm not so sure about it surviving many curbs.

Same rims as a Dolo. Same tires as early Dolo and Beast. Coaster brake. Seat tube angled more to the rear, otherwise geometry is pretty close. I'll have to go back and count the teeth on the gears, 'cause that front ring looked huge (looks to be 20% more diameter than the original Beast ring) - no idea what they were thinking.

Walmart Canada (online) is also offering a single speed _*Polaris Wooly Bully*_ for $515 CAD with a front disc brake and an "aluminum handle bar" (must be why it's so expensive...). 
Walmart Canada

"fat bike" at walmart.ca also turns up Huffy's Wicked Grizzly 20" one-speed boys fat bike for $148 CAD. (Walmart Canada) and Queens Greatest Hits...


----------



## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The Beast makers:
Alibaba Manufacturer Directory - Suppliers, Manufacturers, Exporters & Importers


----------



## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

AZINGER said:


> The Beast makers:
> Alibaba Manufacturer Directory - Suppliers, Manufacturers, Exporters & Importers


Strange, they say aluminium frame but 26 Kgs net weight.

Something's not right...


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

A chinese distributors website isn't accurate? Now I've seen everything.

I wish you could buy individual items off Alibaba. Everything on there seems to have a 100 to 1000 minimum order. I like bikes, but I'd have a hard time justifying getting 100 of the same bike.


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## gorman2040 (Oct 23, 2014)

Well, if they could make the beast in aluminium alloy, it would make it even better at modding.

The main reason I sold mine was that I could never lighten the frame (around 13 pounds with the fork). Changing tires and tubes was easy but the rest is more time consuming for me.


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## Hulk311 (Oct 26, 2016)

I'd like to buy these handlebars:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VV9T...lid=3F454X6EASA5M&coliid=I2U33DD1IJSJIP&psc=1

and this stem:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKCAL...olid=3F454X6EASA5M&coliid=IGU57ERAT36EJ&psc=1

What kind of threaded to headless adapter do I need? What size?


----------



## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Hulk311 said:


> I'd like to buy these handlebars:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VV9T...lid=3F454X6EASA5M&coliid=I2U33DD1IJSJIP&psc=1
> 
> and this stem:
> ...


I did the same thing but found out it didn't work too well. I suggest trying one or the other at first, then see what it feels like before moving on.


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## Mclav (Nov 17, 2016)

*Dead Beast*

Hi friends,

After reading through most of this thread, I decided to dig out my broken Beast and restore it. I am missing some components and could use some suggestions for replacements.








I already purchased some of the suggested parts, such as the 22t rear cog.

As you can see, I am missing the entire crankset, and bottom bracket. What are my options for replacements?

Tips would be greatly appreciated, I am pretty new to this sport.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'd grab a Vuelta crankset off amazon (or used from a local bike co-op), and one of these bottom brackets. You might have to do some bottom bracket shimming to get the chainline and crankarm clearance right.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM1OWOO
https://smile.amazon.com/Vuelta-815004220-MTB-Comp-Crankset/dp/B0081UV7LC


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## Mixtapebaby1 (Jul 11, 2017)

On page 3 ,there is this post


What exactly do i need the Hose Adapters For?

"Phase 2 upgrade complete: 

Rear canti brake system successfully installed
Dia-Comp Lever
Avid tri-align long arm brakes
(Mounting sliders installed upside down and backwards)
Problem Solver Wide Hanger
Problem Solver 38.1mm Clamp Cable Stops
Tektro short drop seatpost bolt canti-hanger
Identiti fork bosses 
+ Custom cut 1 1/4 Outer Diameter 7/8 Inner Diameter garbage disposal hose adapter from Home Depot less than 50 cents"


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## Firerider8 (Jul 12, 2017)

mitmoe said:


> Got the rear disc brake installed on my Beast. Here's the post
> 
> Disc brake Beast!! | The UNDERGROUND!


I know this has been a while since this post but do you still have the pictures? I went to the link and couldn't see any of the pictures. I am looking to do the same. How did it work out?


----------



## Mixtapebaby1 (Jul 11, 2017)

i found the answer to my question via just jumping into the project , thankz again


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Possible upgrade time. Fat suspension
Has anybody had any experience with the Whool or Pasak fat forks? I've seen a couple posts about the spring cartridge version with 28mm stanchions, but they seem to be the same as a suntour XCT. OK fork, but a little flexy under a clyde. There is a 32mm stanchion air cartridge version that I'm looking at. If you have one (or want to buy one and be a test dummy), speak up. Here's a link to one of them, but there are other sellers out there.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kal...t-120mm-travel-Beach-oil-gas/32796974016.html
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JX29B

cross posted to a couple of the other non-lbs fatbike discussions.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I didn't know they made an air cartridge version. The weight isn't too bad either.

I have one of the spring ones and its terrible. I took it off after the first ride and went back to a rigid fork.


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

*Lowest possible gearing?*

What is the lowest possible gearing for a Beast?

Currently running 32 front and 22 rear which is ok on our sandy beaches. But when there is a stiff headwind or the sand is soft it is a bit much for my wife.

I see a 23 rear is available on Amazon.... anyone found an *easy* way to go lower? How do I change out the front?


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

you need to get a new crank to change the front. 

You can put a cassette cog in the rear if you do some work with a Dremel. But thats not really too easy....


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Trying to keep the bike simple since it gets wet and sandy on the beach every day. So not really interested in a multi gear setup. Will have to live with the low ratio but I am trying to go lower than 32 front and 22 rear. 

What cranks fit and where do I look for compatible replacements with less than 32 teeth?

Thanks.


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I didn't mean multiple gears, I meant using a single cog from a cassette....

This is the hub from my beast before I went with multi gears....


----------



## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

and for the crank, you could get a cheapie mountain crankset and just use the smallest gear, you could even cut off the large gears if you wanted to get creative...

this has a 28t small ring.
https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Triple...636427&sr=8-3&keywords=28t+square+taper+crank


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> and for the crank, you could get a cheapie mountain crankset and just use the smallest gear, you could even cut off the large gears if you wanted to get creative...
> 
> this has a 28t small ring.
> https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Triple...636427&sr=8-3&keywords=28t+square+taper+crank


Exactly my thoughts. 
Or instead of 48/38/28t, go 42/32/22t.

And if you got a chain tensioner, and a longer chain, you could manually switch between the front cranks, for on-beach vs. on-street use.


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Here's a gear inch chart for the Dolo, using the original Dolo/Beast tires. 
This can give you a visual representation of how much "easier" a different gear combo would be, as the chart shows how much change there is with every "gear".

Your 32x22 is the red circle on the yellow line. 
Keep the 22 rear, and move to a different front, you move to the green/28T, blue/26T and orange/22T.

So going to 28T front, call it 'one gear' better. 
26T front, nearly 'two gears' better. 
22T front, 'three gears' better.

Move along a line to visualize a change in the rear gear.


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Ok that makes sense, thank you


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Here's a gear inch chart for the Dolo, using the original Dolo/Beast tires.
> This can give you a visual representation of how much "easier" a different gear combo would be, as the chart shows how much change there is with every "gear".
> 
> Your 32x22 is the red circle on the yellow line.
> ...


That makes a lot of sense, thank you


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Exactly my thoughts.
> Or instead of 48/38/28t, go 42/32/22t.
> 
> And if you got a chain tensioner, and a longer chain, you could manually switch between the front cranks, for on-beach vs. on-street use.


True, but I'm not sure how that would hold up at the beach. We ride them into the water, ride them home, then put them up wet and sandy while we chase the two year old around. Not ideal, but that's why I went with a cheap and simple build.


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

blown240 said:


> and for the crank, you could get a cheapie mountain crankset and just use the smallest gear, you could even cut off the large gears if you wanted to get creative...
> 
> this has a 28t small ring.
> https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Triple...636427&sr=8-3&keywords=28t+square+taper+crank


Thanks.

So what do I need to ensure compatability? Just make sure it is square taper, 170 mm, and Shimano Nexus or is there anything else I need to match?


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Just_Cruisin said:


> True, but I'm not sure how that would hold up at the beach. We ride them into the water, ride them home, then put them up wet and sandy while we chase the two year old around. Not ideal, but that's why I went with a cheap and simple build.


It's going to wear and rust, same as what you've got. See the beaching riding threads for what to use to lube the chain and such. Expect to replace the stock chain sooner rather than later. It _may_ be advisable to get a quality chain now (instead of stock), so the gear teeth see less wear when a stock chain starts to go - I'm speculating at that.

You wouldn't have a derailleur to worry about, nor a cable for such. Just manually lift the chain from one ring to the other for riding on pavement vs. riding on the sand. Personally, I'd be off to the local DIY bike repair co-op, and make a custom 32/28/24 or 32/28/22. Leaves you with a front 32, which you find is working on streets, and the 'one gear' and 'three gear' improvements. A chain tensioner should be cheap and easy to get and install.

Do find the thread on frame rust proofing test. A few surprises there on what works best. Fluid Film came out on top. A few sprays into the tube here and there, and wetting a cloth and wiping down the rims, spokes and frame may give the bike a lot more life. I'd nuke the chain with it (I'm trying such on some bikes that are left outside 24/7 year round - so far so good - and it brought some rusty chains back to life and all over it appears to have arrested the existing rust).


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> It's going to wear and rust, same as what you've got. See the beaching riding threads for what to use to lube the chain and such. Expect to replace the stock chain sooner rather than later. It _may_ be advisable to get a quality chain now (instead of stock), so the gear teeth see less wear when a stock chain starts to go - I'm speculating at that.
> 
> You wouldn't have a derailleur to worry about, nor a cable for such. Just manually lift the chain from one ring to the other for riding on pavement vs. riding on the sand. Personally, I'd be off to the local DIY bike repair co-op, and make a custom 32/28/24 or 32/28/22. Leaves you with a front 32, which you find is working on streets, and the 'one gear' and 'three gear' improvements. A chain tensioner should be cheap and easy to get and install.
> 
> Do find the thread on frame rust proofing test. A few surprises there on what works best. Fluid Film came out on top. A few sprays into the tube here and there, and wetting a cloth and wiping down the rims, spokes and frame may give the bike a lot more life. I'd nuke the chain with it (I'm trying such on some bikes that are left outside 24/7 year round - so far so good - and it brought some rusty chains back to life and all over it appears to have arrested the existing rust).


Yep, we've been riding them on the beach for 4 years now and they are holding up well based on what I learned researching here 4 years ago.

We don't have a bike co-op so I've been doing it all myself.

32f 22r
YST sealed BSA cupset
Amber anti rust inside the frame
KMC rust buster chain
Vee rubber tires
Drilled the wheels out

Where do I find more info on the manual chain tensioner?


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ha ha
I'd wondered how it was managing to last on a beach...

Bicycle chain tensioner: single arm, dual arm (like a derailleur). Google, amazon, ...
Some attach near the axle, others clamp to the stay. 
Some cheap, some expensive, others priced high as a scam. Research. 
Or use an old derailleur. It's at the rear so the angle created by moving from inner to outer chainring is least.


----------



## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

What about an internally geared hub? 

Are any of the kick-shift or cable actuated models compatible with the size and spoke configuration of the rear hub?

Just trying to get a lower ratio when on soft sand at the beach and peddling into a headwind. Trying to keep the overall build simple for longevity in the harsh salt and sun environment.


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Just_Cruisin said:


> What about an internally geared hub?
> ...
> Trying to keep the overall build simple for longevity in the harsh salt and sun environment.


I don't think internally-geared and longevity don't go hand-in-hand where you'll be riding somewhat into the water like you said earlier. Cost goes way up too. Nasty failures.

Change out to a smaller chain ring and accept that on beach you'll be pedalling good, road you'll be spinning your legs and moving slow.

Or go to the front triple as described.
Lifting a chain from one ring to the other is about as simple as it gets. 
Add a tensioner or an old derailer (possibly longer limit screws, remove the retracting spring). This is the only new moving part.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The only issue with adding a chain tensioner and using the multiple gears in front is that the coaster brake won't work anymore....


Your best bet, is to just get a smaller front ring or a larger rear and keep it a single speed.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oops
I have seen a double front with just enough chain so the tensioner has little to take up when on small and barely any on the larger, but with a coaster brake you'd have to back-pedal to take the tension up and hope the chain didn't come off...
I saw a fixed position tensioner (no take-up spring) years ago, but I don't remember how it worked. It would have to be strong enough to take the back-pedal tension.
Sounds like trouble. 
(~edit: yup - found reference online for fixed position tensioners, and they caution they're not strong enough to take the force of coaster brakes.)

Sisters had Peugeot step-throughs with a rear hub that was kick-shift and back-pedal (coaster?) brake. Take enough spokes for a beast rim? Last on beach?

I believe it will be as blown240 says. 

If you put a triple front on it that had 28T and another shorter (22T?), you can at least adjust the chain length for her to try to see which she prefers.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> I don't think internally-geared and longevity don't go hand-in-hand where you'll be riding somewhat into the water like you said earlier. Cost goes way up too. Nasty failures.


We don't go hub deep into the water, hahaha!

Just the tires, but I get what you are saying.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

blown240 said:


> The only issue with adding a chain tensioner and using the multiple gears in front is that the coaster brake won't work anymore....
> 
> Your best bet, is to just get a smaller front ring or a larger rear and keep it a single speed.


Yeah, no brakes isn't going to work.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

*Would this work?*

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SG-3C41-Universal-Nexus-Coater/dp/B001GSKVIQ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top

168mm axle
36 holes

Would it fit and work on a Beast?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Just_Cruisin said:


> Shimano-SG-3C41-Universal-Nexus-Coater
> 168mm axle
> 36 holes
> Would it fit and work on a Beast?


I don't know. 
Going to the Shimano site, I can't find out where the axle "width" is measured from, flange spacing or actual full axle length. It does say that the SG-3C41 is available in three axles lengths, 168/175/178, which makes me think it's the actual outer length, but I'm guessing.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-inter3/SG-3C41.html

The Beast rear is 170mm. But you should measure yours to be sure. Makes me worried a 178mm axle won't be able to be secured. The 'dealers' manual at shimano's site also specifies how much clearance it needs. 
Perhaps the stays of the bike can be bent in to fit. 


> Make sure that the hub axle on the right side protrudes 8 to 12.5 mm from the end face of the flange nut.
> Total width of the fork end and other parts such the stand and mudguard stay:
> 4 to 7.5 mm (Axle length: 168 mm / 175 mm)
> 9 to 12.5 mm (Axle length: 178 mm


Go look at the PDF for the photo.

Various google hits claim they've put a Nexus on the rear of a Beast, so I'm betting it was a 178 and either come cobbled extensions or some bent stays.

Do look around for a bike parts seller who may be selling the hub and the shifter as OEM parts.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Thanks, that manual is very informative.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The beast rear may be 190mm, pretty sure the Dolomite is. I can't remember if I had to widen the stays when I went multi gear or not...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> The beast rear may be 190mm, pretty sure the Dolomite is. I can't remember if I had to widen the stays when I went multi gear or not...


I'd always 'believed' the 170mm quoted. 
I just measured mine. Surprise!
6.375" between the flanges, 162mm. With a crappy tape-measure, but you get the basic size. 
I didn't believe it when I converted to mm, so I went back and measured again.
I got it new in May 2013. Your size may vary. *Measure yours*.

Dolo, rear wheel off, between the flanges is 7.25", 184mm. 
New in March 2014.

(the advantage of having your bikes in your front room...)


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> I'd always 'believed' the 170mm quoted.
> I just measured mine. Surprise!
> 6.375" between the flanges, 162mm. With a crappy tape-measure, but you get the basic size.
> I didn't believe it when I converted to mm, so I went back and measured again.
> I got it new in May 2013. Your size may vary. *Measure yours*.


Same here. Just might work. I've never built up a wheel, so it might be some time before I can research and give it a go.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Just_Cruisin said:


> Same here. Just might work. I've never built up a wheel, so it might be some time before I can research and give it a go.


Well, there are various reports around the internet claiming to have put a Nexus 3-speed coaster on a Beast, they just don't mention which of the three axle sizes they used. 
Just remember to check the manual again before you go ahead, and remember its 


> Make sure that the hub axle on the right side protrudes 8 to 12.5 mm from the end face of the flange nut.


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## Just_Cruisin (Aug 12, 2014)

Well, the Sturmey-Archer S2C does NOT fit. Even the 135mm model brings the cog in so far that there would be chain rub.


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## AC Orange (May 18, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Well, there are various reports around the internet claiming to have put a Nexus 3-speed coaster on a Beast, they just don't mention which of the three axle sizes they used.
> Just remember to check the manual again before you go ahead, and remember its


A Nexus 3 speed ... now that sounds interesting !


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