# Yelli Screamy by Canfield ?



## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

So I was checking out the Canfield website to see how they are progressing with the Nimble Nine and I see they are offering a new Aluminum alloy HT 29er model called the Yelli Screamy ! Geo sounds interesting : 16.7 " chainstays , 69 degree HTA w 100mm fork , and will come in a XL size as well for us taller peeps ! Man , even though I'm not really a big HT fan this frame sounds interesting for a nice little playbike !  TIG.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Knew this was coming, got to go check their site now.

The Nimble 9 is still coming and last I heard it's another 2-3 months out.

I was told that it looks a lot different than the original look and will be SS only.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Wow, I'm impressed! Now I'm even more eager to see the final Nimble 9 design.


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## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

Inter-resting...very inter-resting...


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## jager7 (Sep 29, 2008)

fantastic freakin name. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## GFAthens (Sep 10, 2009)

Cool geometry


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/products/yelli-screamy

holy that is what i have always wanted.


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## thesenator (Jul 26, 2007)

*16.7" Chainstays!!!!!*

16.7" Chainstays, and way better looking than the Nimble 9...IMO.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Anybody find BB height?


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

Is this actually available, or just vapor ware like the Nimble 9 has proven to be thus far?


Edit: It says "Buy Now." This looks like a great option in the hardtail arena. Very unique bike.


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Anybody find BB height?


BB drop is on the diagram (as is reach!!). 70mm for 487a-c fork gives you an estimated 11.75" with the short fork. I would guess around 12.5-13" with a 120mm fork

That is possibly the most thorough geometry diagram I have ever seen. Well done Canfields


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## 20.100 FR (Jan 13, 2004)

is this slacker than the Pardox using the same fork ?


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## thesenator (Jul 26, 2007)

*However....*



Enel said:


> Is this actually available, or just vapor ware like the Nimble 9 has proven to be thus far?
> 
> Edit: It says "Buy Now." This looks like a great option in the hardtail arena. Very unique bike.


...If you click on "Buy Now," there isn't one to buy.


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## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

*Yes*



20.100 FR said:


> is this slacker than the Pardox using the same fork ?


The Paradox is 70d with a 100mm, 69d with 120mm. The CS are also shorter on the Yelli.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

it comes in gold? I am so sold. Get these available *flymybike*!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Very interesting bike for sure and as Enel said, the geo chart really does give you everything and see what your particular size frame will actually look like, HOWEVER, too bad they have a web designer who doesn't seem to think that anyone uses over a 1024 resolution for their monitors :madman: I can hardly read the type on my 17" wide screen @ 1650 x 1050 :madman: and it's a jpeg, so you can't even scale it up using the font scaling feature in most browsers these days.



Enel said:


> BB drop is on the diagram (as is reach!!). 70mm for 487a-c fork gives you an estimated 11.75" with the short fork. I would guess around 12.5-13" with a 120mm fork
> 
> _*That is possibly the most thorough geometry diagram I have ever seen. *_ Well done Canfields


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

So forgive me a newb question, but for those of you who ride slacked out bikes with shorter stays, would you recommend the 120mm fork or the 100mm fork. I ask because the website highlights the HA with the 100mm fork. I'm wondering if that's what they, essentially, designed the frame around and are recommending?


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## sean salach (Sep 15, 2007)

Enel said:


> BB drop is on the diagram (as is reach!!). 70mm for 487a-c fork gives you an estimated 11.75" with the short fork. I would guess around 12.5-13" with a 120mm fork
> 
> That is possibly the most thorough geometry diagram I have ever seen. Well done Canfields


Now we're talking. I originally looked at it and was scratching my head at the sub 12" resultant BB height. Forgot to take into account longer forks.

16.7" cs + 12.7"(+) bb = :band:


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

thesenator said:


> ...If you click on "Buy Now," there isn't one to buy.


The Yelli Screamy's are finished. They have been on the boat for about 2 weeks.
Should be here in about a week or so.

The frame was designed for 80-120mm forks.
I have a 100mm Fox float on mine running a 69 degree head angle.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

cSquared said:


> The Yelli Screamy's are finished. They have been on the boat for about 2 weeks.
> Should be here in about a week or so.
> 
> The frame was designed for 80-120mm forks.
> I have a 100mm Fox float on mine running a 69 degree head angle.


Post up a pic or two!


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

sean salach said:


> Now we're talking. I originally looked at it and was scratching my head at the sub 12" resultant BB height. Forgot to take into account longer forks. 16.7" cs + 12.7"(+) bb = :band:


The spec sheet is a little unusual in that the length of the "80mm Fox fork" varies depending on frame size from 468mm for the XL to 487mm on the S. I can't make much sense of that.

It seems safe to assume the BB drop is 70mm with a 468 fork (~11.75" BB depending on tires). A sagged 120mm fork has an a-c around 500mm, so BB drop would be around 57mm in the sagged position which puts you at 12.3" when riding the bike. Add 1/2" unsagged, if that is what you are used to looking at spec wise= 12.7"

I think if I were designing a hardtail for me personally, it would not be far off this. I just re-measured the Simon Bar and it is 70mm BB drop and 70 degree HTA with a short rigid fork.


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Hopefully we'll get a ride report from a credible source like twentynineinches.com soon as I'd love to see how it performs


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## <-meathucker-> (May 20, 2005)

djembe975 said:


> Hopefully we'll get a ride report from a credible source like twentynineinches.com soon as I'd love to see how it performs


I'm sure as long as there is a free bike involved we will get a glowing review from twentynineinches.com


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## F.I.T.nj (Jan 26, 2009)

bluestatevirgin said:


> So forgive me a newb question, but for those of you who ride slacked out bikes with shorter stays, would you recommend the 120mm fork or the 100mm fork. I ask because the website highlights the HA with the 100mm fork. I'm wondering if that's what they, essentially, designed the frame around and are recommending?


I have a custom frame with 16.5 CS and a sagged HA at 69.5 (100mm) and 68.5 (120mm)
The bike never feels sluggish in either position but it certainly climbs a bit better at 100mm. However I am sure that with some small cockpit adjustments I could get climbing just as good at 120mm. BTW, that is w/ a TALAS fork so I can switch back and forth at will. Which I would highly recommend for a frame like the Canfield.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

F.I.T.nj said:


> I have a custom frame with 16.5 CS and a sagged HA at 69.5 (100mm) and 68.5 (120mm)
> The bike never feels sluggish in either position but it certainly climbs a bit better at 100mm. However I am sure that with some small cockpit adjustments I could get climbing just as good at 120mm. BTW, that is w/ a TALAS fork so I can switch back and forth at will. Which I would highly recommend for a frame like the Canfield.


Good info., thanks. I saw the build thread on your bike, and it's sweet. With similar HA to the canefield, your advice on the Talas will be considered. By the way, what's the bb height on your new bike?


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

The one thing that I'd like to know with slack angled 29er like this is are they on the slow side of handling or do the short stays balance it out? With many of the production 29ers out there it seems that 71 to 72 degrees heat tube angle seems to be the norm


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

djembe975 said:


> The one thing that I'd like to know with slack angled 29er like this is are they on the slow side of handling or do the short stays balance it out? With many of the production 29ers out there it seems that 71 to 72 degrees heat tube angle seems to be the norm


probably a similar difference in handling between slack 26" am hardtails and 26" xc hardtails that often have steeper angles too 

no offense, but many people tend to think of 29ers more as a category of bikes than as a wheel size that can be applied to different categories of bikes. Short stays can make a bike feel more "lively", "playful" or "nimble" and you will be able to turn the bike a bit easier with your body, but the steering alone will still be slower and will force you to use your body more to be maneuverable


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Very interesting bike for sure and as Enel said, the geo chart really does give you everything and see what your particular size frame will actually look like, HOWEVER, too bad they have a web designer who doesn't seem to think that anyone uses over a 1024 resolution for their monitors :madman: I can hardly read the type on my 17" wide screen @ 1650 x 1050 :madman: and it's a jpeg, so you can't even scale it up using the font scaling feature in most browsers these days.


Sweet. Coolest most exciting bike to be posted in a long time and you rag on the web developer and how it is posted on them internets! Almost feels like DC got into some Jamaican ganga and hijacked your account....... wanna borrow my bifocals? hehehe



djembe975 said:


> Hopefully we'll get a ride report from a credible source like twentynineinches.com soon as I'd love to see how it performs


Yep, hucking that long travel All Mountain bike across the huge drops and gnarly rock strewn descents of the Iowa, Kansas, Nebraska lands with the 5000 vertical foot 15 mile descents after climbing to the sky all morning..... oh, wait. Uh......


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

slocaus said:


> Yep, hucking that long travel All Mountain bike across the huge drops and gnarly rock strewn descents of the Iowa, Kansas, Nebraska lands with the 5000 vertical foot 15 mile descents after climbing to the sky all morning..... oh, wait. Uh......


You know that there are contributors to TNI from other locales, right? Just checking.


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## jaredbadams (Apr 7, 2005)

*Yelli Screamy by Canfield?*

The head-tube length on the XL is about an inch too short.


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

<-meathucker-> said:


> I'm sure as long as there is a free bike involved we will get a glowing review from twentynineinches.com


Guitar Ted is probably too nice to respond, but I am not. That is a direct attack on the character of the writer/testers at that site, including myself. Not cool, especially since the review commentaries do not bear this out.

You are way off here and your character is showing.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

Guitar Ted said:


> You know that there are contributors to TNI from other locales, right? Just checking.


Yes, and I forgot the smilie (fixt, uh... ). Not every bike you test is prefect for your test conditions, given your ability to travel the globe with your $$$ million dollar test budget was what I was trying to say. Even though the Canfield Bros _might_ be a little biased  , but I feel they are better qualified to test this one; I doubt mikesee or buddies will fly this to its limits, let alone the 29".com crew. Just sayin'...


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

slocaus said:


> Yes, and I forgot the smilie (fixt, uh... ). Not every bike you test is prefect for your test conditions, given your ability to travel the globe with your $$$ million dollar test budget was what I was trying to say. Even though the Canfield Bros _might_ be a little biased  , but I feel they are better qualified to test this one; I doubt mikesee or buddies will fly this to its limits, let alone the 29".com crew. Just sayin'...


No worries, Tim. I told GT all about you

And I agree...I am certainly not the perfect test rider for this type of bike, seeing as how you and I like the same type of rides/bikes.

Maybe I should buy some elbow/knee pads and a FF helmet? Nah.


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## <-meathucker-> (May 20, 2005)

mtroy said:


> Guitar Ted is probably too nice to respond, but I am not. That is a direct attack on the character of the writer/testers at that site, including myself. Not cool, especially since the review commentaries do not bear this out.
> 
> You are way off here and your character is showing.


Sorry if you somehow got the vibe that I cared what you thought of my character...


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

boomn said:


> probably a similar difference in handling between slack 26" am hardtails and 26" xc hardtails that often have steeper angles too
> 
> no offense, but many people tend to think of 29ers more as a category of bikes than as a wheel size that can be applied to different categories of bikes. Short stays can make a bike feel more "lively", "playful" or "nimble" and you will be able to turn the bike a bit easier with your body, but the steering alone will still be slower and will force you to use your body more to be maneuverable


+1

Spot on :thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

jaredbadams said:


> The head-tube length on the XL is about an inch too short.


I've got the same issue with the seat tube  I wouldn't be able to run an adjustable seatpost on this. I prefer some of the features of this over the Paradox (Tapered, direct mount) but the geometry isn't going to work for me.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Geometry pictures for the smaller sizes say ISCG mounts (03?) but the larger ones don't. It is not in the photos either.

What is correct?


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## F.I.T.nj (Jan 26, 2009)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Good info., thanks. I saw the build thread on your bike, and it's sweet. With similar HA to the canefield, your advice on the Talas will be considered. By the way, what's the bb height on your new bike?


12.25 at 100mm. I find it to be perfect so far.


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## F.I.T.nj (Jan 26, 2009)

jncarpenter said:


> +1
> 
> Spot on :thumbsup:


+2 This geo really responds best to a more "DH" style of riding. Full commitment, lots of body english, toss it in and ride the rear wheel out......When you treat it like that it simply rips the way now long stayed steep angled frame can. All depends on how active you like to be on the bike. My .02c


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

This is very relevant to my interests. (lets see some pics of a complete bike)


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

jncarpenter said:


> +1
> 
> Spot on :thumbsup:


 +2 :thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Does anyone have an idea on rear tire capacity? It looks like the Rockshox seatpost will be long enough for me. So, it's back in the running for finding a home beneath my Christmas tree if I can fit good sized rubber in it.


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## megalow maniac (May 28, 2008)

...is it just me or does the design of the ultra short chainstays bear a striking resemblance with the BY:STICKEL custom frames?!? Don't know if Canfield Brothers deliberately intended to copy it or anything but I still think Steve was first and he deserves some credit :thumbsup:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=639443
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=508480
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7015325


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## Loki (Oct 15, 2004)

*No he's not*



megalow maniac said:


> ...is it just me or does the design of the ultra short chainstays bear a striking resemblance with the BY:STICKEL custom frames?!? Don't know if Canfield Brothers deliberately intended to copy it or anything but I still think Steve was first and he deserves some credit :thumbsup:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=639443
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=508480
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7015325


Maybe the first you are aware of though.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Nobody has a pic of one built up, proto or otherwise?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

There's a few more detail pics at:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157624667083519/

But no built up 

The German site has a pic of the frame in silver:










https://www.canfieldbrothers.de/site_de.html


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## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

megalow maniac said:


> ...is it just me or does the design of the ultra short chainstays bear a striking resemblance with the BY:STICKEL custom frames?!?


 Good point.....looks like a nice frame to reintroduce me back into the HT scene without spending alot of coin !  TIG.


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## wedge (Jun 24, 2006)

personnally Î'm more interested in seeing the gold and silver options than a built up...


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Thanks for the links looks good in silver as well...


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

69* on a 29er = cheating in the tech. I know, my BS RAM devours rock gardens like they're not there, and with a shorter stem, those short stays should mean pulling ledgey ups are e-z and climbs are balanced... also that 69* HTA will make the downs delicious as well. 

Well done canfields!


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## sean salach (Sep 15, 2007)

megalow maniac said:


> ...is it just me or does the design of the ultra short chainstays bear a striking resemblance with the BY:STICKEL custom frames?!? Don't know if Canfield Brothers deliberately intended to copy it or anything but I still think Steve was first and he deserves some credit :thumbsup:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=639443
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=508480
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7015325


Pretty sure that bb/st/dt layout showed up first on downhill bikes. Could be wrong though.


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## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

thefriar said:


> 69* on a 29er = cheating in the tech. I know, my BS RAM devours rock gardens like they're not there, and with a shorter stem, those short stays should mean pulling ledgey ups are e-z and climbs are balanced... also that 69* HTA will make the downs delicious as well.
> 
> Well done canfields!


 No doubt........it's beastieful ! TIG.


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Here is a pic of a gold complete build from I believe one of the brother's bike


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

thanks... I knew there was a pic out there somewhere.


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## kaiser2 (Jul 27, 2008)

This thread needs some more build pics .....please.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

That bike is the first bike to get assembled so we could check geometry and fit. We just rushed it together with parts we had so we could reliese the geometry and annouce that they will be here next week. Chris is in Germany for Eurobike, when he returns we will be getting a few more together for Interbike. Until then I have no pics or even one for myself. The Yelli Screamy is available in Black, Silver and Gold (pictured) anodized colors and small, medium, large and XL sizes.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

...I'm excited to see one @ interbike, what size is the gold one that's built up ?


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

...


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## Nevada 29er (Nov 12, 2007)

Can someone post the geo graphic so it can actually be read?


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## Soupboy (Jan 13, 2004)

Nice addition to the pool of options. Still waiting on a FS 29er from the Canfields...

I agree re the static HT length and there are many others guilty of this.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Nevada 29er said:


> Can someone post the geo graphic so it can actually be read?


At least on the German site it becomes large enough to read when I use my browser's zoom function (View > Zoom > 200% or press "Ctrl" and "+")


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## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

Soupboy said:


> Nice addition to the pool of options. Still waiting on a FS 29er from the Canfields...
> 
> Yes, I'd like to see a FS 29er from them too. I know they had the DH prototype, but I'd like to see something that could climb hills as well.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Max rear tire width?


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## strangerthanmilhouse (Jan 18, 2007)

Available before or after interbike? Just wondering


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

*Geo*



Nevada 29er said:


> Can someone post the geo graphic so it can actually be read?


The complete shown is a large. They will be here on the 10th so it's possible to get one just before I-bike. We designed it to fit all 29" tires, just need to get my hands on one to verify.
Here they are.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

flymybike said:


> We designed it to fit all 29" tires


Excellent. Can't wait to see some build pics.


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

flymybike said:


> The complete shown is a large. They will be here on the 10th so it's possible to get one just before I-bike. We designed it to fit all 29" tires, just need to get my hands on one to verify.
> Here they are.


The ETT, STA, and reach on these diagrams is based on which fork length?


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Based on the 80mm fork. It's a fairly small change in dimensions compared to the longer forks. The numbers become slacker and smaller as the fork height increases.


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## eMcK (Aug 22, 2007)

You guys going to be at Outdoor Demo again this year?


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Yes, we'll just be riding so just give us a call and we'll find you. We'll have a few Yelli Screams with us to ride.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I'm diggin this bike. 

At 5'9", wondering if I should go with the medium?


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## rojogonzo (Jan 24, 2008)

excellent


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

OldHouseMan said:


> At 5'9", wondering if I should go with the medium?


At about the same height... I think I'd like the Small, but I seem to get along with pretty compact frames. Medium with a short stem might work too.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I'm thinkin small as well, I really hope I get a chance to ride both sizes @ Interbike. Ah hell, who am I kidding, I'll be stoked just to see one....


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## 2melow (Jan 5, 2004)

TIGMAN said:


> Man , even though I'm not really a big HT fan this frame sounds interesting for a nice little playbike !  TIG.


Chris Canfield was pretty darn excited and telling the girls about it at Eurobike today!


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## pureslop (Jul 28, 2008)

Now we know the reason for the delays in getting the Nimble Nine. Dude, get to work.


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## el-cid (May 21, 2004)

Hmm...those girls have shirts just painted on, no? I think I wouldn't be rubbing _my_ nipple. Maybe part of that crazy Euro. mating ritual?


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

That looks like a guy trying to sell some bikes.....


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## kaiser2 (Jul 27, 2008)

Are there any decent build pics yet?


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Thanks to Ojos Azules for this pic of the Yelli. Go check out the full Eurobike pic post:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mybikeride/Eurobike2010#5512455899731886226


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

Only a couple more days until this frame is available. How many others have one pre-ordered?


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## <-meathucker-> (May 20, 2005)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> Only a couple more days until this frame is available. How many others have one pre-ordered?


I wish


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

So I was over at the Canfield online shop looking at ordering the frame and there I find a 29inch wheelset listed too. The site lists the set as available in QR or 15mm front and 150x12 rear. Correct me if I'm wrong or newbish, but doesn't the website list the yelli as having a 135x10 rear? Will the wheelset work with the frame? Does anybody know anything about the wheelset, such as rims and hubs?

http://canfieldbrothers.com/shop/products-page/29ers/


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

bluestatevirgin said:


> So I was over at the Canfield online shop looking at ordering the frame and there I find a 29inch wheelset listed too. The site lists the set as available in QR or 15mm front and 150x12 rear. Correct me if I'm wrong or newbish, but doesn't the website list the yelli as having a 135x10 rear? Will the wheelset work with the frame? Does anybody know anything about the wheelset, such as rims and hubs?
> 
> http://canfieldbrothers.com/shop/products-page/29ers/


pretty sure that's a typo -- makes no sense to sell a wheelset w/ a QR front hub and a 150 mm rear hub.


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## sanjuanswan (Aug 10, 2008)

I'm really interested to hear some ride reports on this frame. I had been looking at the Yeti Big Top, but the shorter chainstays and triple water bottle mounts, not to mention the lower price tag have me very intrigued. I'm especially curious to know if this frame is harsh or compliant, as aluminum hardtails go--there seems to be so much variation.


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## Blaster1200 (Feb 20, 2004)

boomn said:


> probably a similar difference in handling between slack 26" am hardtails and 26" xc hardtails that often have steeper angles too
> 
> no offense, but many people tend to think of 29ers more as a category of bikes than as a wheel size that can be applied to different categories of bikes. Short stays can make a bike feel more "lively", "playful" or "nimble" and you will be able to turn the bike a bit easier with your body, but the steering alone will still be slower and will force you to use your body more to be maneuverable


another +1

In the thread of the 29er I built (with 67.5 degree head angle with a 120 mm fork), there were a few people who mentioned that they required a 71 or 72 degree head angle to turn - yeah, I understand - they just don't have the turning skills to properly turn a bike, anyway, and they usually can't/don't get their butts out of the seat to turn. It's no wonder most 29ers are built for riders without bike handling skills! 

I'm loving my 67.5 degree HA/12" BB/ 16-5/8" CS 29er!


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

So are the Brothers done hamming it up with the painted Euro wenches yet? I want pics and details!!!! :madman: (Of the bike, not the wenches. Though you can feel free to include pics/details of the wenches as well  )

Pics of the three frame colors side by side would be nice. A shot of the chainstays with a known high volume tire mounted to a wide rim would make me happy as well


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

+2, more pics !!!!(please)


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## Evil Chocula (Jan 31, 2007)

Blaster1200 said:


> .....the 29er I built......they just don't have the turning skills to properly turn a bike.....


We get it, you built a bike and have sick bike handling skills. Save the self exposition for STR  .


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

flymybike said:


> The complete shown is a large. *They will be here on the 10th* so it's possible to get one just before I-bike. .


 I'm not pestering you. I'm just making it easier for you to find the thread


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

$100 for shipping? Seriously?

http://canfieldbrothers.com/shop/products-page/checkout/

edit: looks like they are still tinkering with the web store. now reads 650 and no shipping.


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## wedge (Jun 24, 2006)

Ouch!

400$ for international shipping...


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

> Ouch!
> 
> 400$ for international shipping...


Frame bought in UK is roughly £600 or $925 :-(


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

wedge said:


> Ouch!
> 
> 400$ for international shipping...


Shurely sum mistake - nothing costs 400 bucks to send international


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

But it makes it equate with the UK price...

If the frames were shipped straight to the UK distributor from the factory, instead of via Canfield in US surely that would be much cheaper?


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## Ronnie (Jan 17, 2004)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Shurely sum mistake - nothing costs 400 bucks to send international


Nigel, not so. The quote from Fedex to ship your FSR if, I remember correctly, was almost $400.

Ronnie.


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## jager7 (Sep 29, 2008)

I just shipped a full bike from California to England, via US Postal priority mail, insured, for $90.

That rate seems way high.


----------



## Ronnie (Jan 17, 2004)

jager7 said:


> I just shipped a full bike from California to England, via US Postal priority mail, insured, for $90.
> 
> That rate seems way high.


Yes, I've also shipped to England for ± $90 with USPS. I also had one arrive damaged with USPS. Go and get an insured quote with a shipping company and see what it costs.

Ronnie.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

They are most definitely smoking some form of cRaCk  Guess they're doing like all those infomercials and making their money on the shipping :skep: I know my Banshee sure didn't cost anywhere near $400 US once it was shipped by Banshee who would do a lot more business with FedEx etc than me. I think this will be a major hurdle for them if these prices are for real.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I got as far as the paypal log in and I saw no shipping costs at all? I'm wondering if the new price includes shipping ?


----------



## wedge (Jun 24, 2006)

Yes, the price includes shipping, as it changes (from 650 to 1000$) when you change the shipping region...


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

wyatt79m said:


> I got as far as the paypal log in and I saw no shipping costs at all? I'm wondering if the new price includes shipping ?


I just all the way through the process and it states, "All prices include tax and postage and packaging where applicable."

Not sure when the frame will show up though. This is my first 29er.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

geolover said:


> I just all the way through the process and it states, "All prices include tax and postage and packaging where applicable."
> 
> Not sure when the frame will show up though. This is my first 29er.


So it was 650$ total ?


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

wyatt79m said:


> So it was 650$ total ?


Yes.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

geolover said:


> Yes.


sweet! :thumbsup: Thanks..


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

My Yelli Screamy is on it's way. I'm just bummed it wont arrive until Monday so I can't ride it over the weekend. Can't wait to give it a go!


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I decided to wait till after Interbike on the chance I might get to test ride one there. I'm wishing I had one on the way though...


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

We will have one of each size to test at Bootleg for the Demo.
We don't do booths- so find our Van or give us a call at 801-548-2556 to hook up.

We will have 3 jedi's at the Elka booth for demo's too.

C2


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Thanks, I'll be callin.....


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> My Yelli Screamy is on it's way. I'm just bummed it wont arrive until Monday so I can't ride it over the weekend. Can't wait to give it a go!


According to UPS tracking my Yelli was delivered today while I was at Whistler...guess I better go look for the box. :thumbsup:


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

geolover said:


> According to UPS tracking my Yelli was delivered today while I was at Whistler...guess I better go look for the box. :thumbsup:


When you finish building the bike it would be great to see some pics!


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> When you finish building the bike it would be great to see some pics!


Here's a sneak peak.







Medium frame.


----------



## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

*Nice!*



geolover said:


> Here's a sneak peak.
> Medium frame.


Sweet! The 3-font graphics are a bit much, yet still nicely "understated"...the bike looks great. How fun. Enjoy! :thumbsup:


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

geolover said:


> Here's a sneak peak.
> Medium frame.


Looks awesome dude, congrats!
How are you gonna build it, what fork?
Very curious to hear your impressions.... I expect they will be good ;~)


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

FM said:


> Looks awesome dude, congrats!
> How are you gonna build it, what fork?
> Very curious to hear your impressions.... I expect they will be good ;~)


I bought a Marz 44 TST2 from Chainreaction for 250 :eekster: . Yeah, probably not the best performer, but it was just too cheap, it is adjustable between 100-140mm and I'll be modifying it to an adjustable shim stack style like THIS MOD.

I'm moving over a bunch of stuff from my On One Summer Season, but I'm still looking for an Ardent or Purgatory 2.4 front tire...no local shops have 'em :madman: .

Come up and ride it when the hand feels better.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

*Geolover, start your own build thread, please...*



geolover said:


> I bought a Marz 44 TST2 from Chainreaction for 250 :eekster: . Yeah, probably not the best performer, but it was just too cheap and I'll be modifying it to an adjustable shim stack style like THIS MOD.
> 
> I'm moving over a bunch of stuff from my On One Summer Season, but I'm still looking for an Ardent or Purgatory 2.4 front tire...no local shops have 'em :madman: .
> 
> Come up and ride it when the hand feels better.


With pics as you go. Don't make us accuse you of having nothing better to do.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Just looked at the Canfield Europe website. Their price for the Yelli Screamy frame is 799€. Shipping a frame within Europe shouldn't cost huge amounts of money.
http://www.canfieldbrothers.de/


----------



## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

perttime said:


> Just looked at the Canfield Europe website. Their price for the Yelli Screamy frame is 799€. Shipping a frame within Europe shouldn't cost huge amounts of money.
> http://www.canfieldbrothers.de/


800 Euros is relatively big money.

The Paradox is 470 Euros UK delivered


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

The good thing is, I am not looking for a 29er right now  If I were, I'd be pretty torn between those two, even with the big difference in price.

... add a bit to the Yelli Screamy price and I could get a custom frame.


----------



## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

...and in steel


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Looks like a very nice frame. 
Any picture anywhere of the gold anodized color?
In the european site colors available are black, silver and titan...


----------



## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

bonesetter2004 said:


> ...and in steel


Speaking of which - isn't the Nimble 9 steel, very similar geo and a great price? (that frame is still ongoing isn't it?)


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Speaking of which - isn't the Nimble 9 steel, very similar geo and a great price? (that frame is still ongoing isn't it?)


Yes it is!


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Steel? Dunno: I'd put fat tires on the bike anyway.


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

savo said:


> Looks like a very nice frame.
> Any picture anywhere of the gold anodized color?
> In the european site colors available are black, silver and titan...


The Titan is the same as Gold, and it looks killer. My Gold Ano frame just arrived Monday. I'm still waiting on the headset to arrive so I can ride it.

Once it is built I will post some pics.


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

Here is a pic of the bike in Gold. Now that I have it together I've been able to take it out and my first impression is super positive. The bike feels really stable but still has a nice tight turning radius, the short chainstays rock. I can't wait to ride it more.


From 2010_11_21


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

And because someone asked about the clearance between the rear tire and front derailleur, here is another pic. I'm running Kenda Nevegal 2.2 tires, and the clearnce is tight.

From 2010_11_21


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Thanks. I was asking about that. Eeeek. I have hopes of fitting an Ardent 2.4 and still fitting a FD. If it doesn't fit, I guess I'll go 1x9 and HTFU.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

So here's a newb question for y'all: If the Yelli has a 110mm head tube, will a used fork with a 7 3/4 inch steer tube be too short? Headset and stem could be bought to compensate, but I'd need recommends.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> And because someone asked about the clearance between the rear tire and front derailleur, here is another pic. I'm running Kenda Nevegal 2.2 tires, and the clearnce is tight.


What derailer is it?

I recall from Paradox threads that there's significant differences in how different FDs fit.

Looks like clearance without a FD would be very god.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

perttime said:


> I recall from Paradox threads that there's significant differences in how different FDs fit.


This one takes a direct mount, so I'm guessing there is less variation among the different options. There also aren't too many options readily available.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

bluestatevirgin said:


> So here's a newb question for y'all: If the Yelli has a 110mm head tube, will a used fork with a 7 3/4 inch steer tube be too short? Headset and stem could be bought to compensate, but I'd need recommends.


Head tube: 110mm
Stem: 45mm
Headset: 30mm
______________
Total: 7.3"

Just throwing numbers at it, it looks like you'll be fine with typical components.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

car_nut said:


> Thanks. I was asking about that. Eeeek. I have hopes of fitting an Ardent 2.4 and still fitting a FD. If it doesn't fit, I guess I'll go 1x9 and HTFU.


Thats one of the setups I have. Here is a pic of a Ardent 2.4 fitting with a 3 ring. Note that the bottom arm of the dual pull on the direct mount front derailleur needs to be cut off to give you good clearance.


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

flymybike - as you're on should I expect any problems running a Y-S ss? Thinking of 32t ring up front and chain tensioner out back.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

flymybike said:


> Thats one of the setups I have. Here is a pic of a Ardent 2.4 fitting with a 3 ring. Note that the bottom arm of the dual pull on the direct mount front derailleur needs to be cut off to give you good clearance.


You just made my day:thumbsup:


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Clink said:


> Y-S ss? Thinking of 32t ring up front and chain tensioner out back.


I'd consider a BB mounted tensioner. Although ISCG tabs would make it easier to set up something like a Blackspire Stinger as a tensioner. Maybe a Yess.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

:thumbsup: this is a fun bike, just thought I'd include some pics I got @ Bootleg Canyon.


----------



## Deuce9er (May 11, 2010)

Is is camera angle? Or, how wide are those bars?


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I'm not sure, but they were pretty wide...


----------



## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

And a short stem - perfect combo for that bike I would say


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Just got my tracking number! It's on the way, can't wait....


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

wyatt79m said:


> Just got my tracking number! It's on the way, can't wait....


:thumbsup:

What fork/travel?


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Fox, 120mm


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I did just snag a Cheap marzochi 44 set @ 100mm just in case?


----------



## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

*Ride impressions?*

To those of you that got to throw a leg over the Yelli Screamy, how did you like it? Was it a smooth or harsh ride with the 2.4 tires? I am hoping the combination of large rubber, 29" wheels and slack geo allow for some bump compliance?

The only reason I ask is I am not sure if I want a hardtail again. Last spring I built a steel 26" Evil Soverign. Besides being too short for me, the harshness on the downs sent the Evil packing.

Thanks!


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

bubba13 said:


> To those of you that got to throw a leg over the Yelli Screamy, how did you like it? Was it a smooth or harsh ride with the 2.4 tires? I am hoping the combination of large rubber, 29" wheels and slack geo allow for some bump compliance?
> 
> The only reason I ask is I am not sure if I want a hardtail again. Last spring I built a steel 26" Evil Soverign. Besides being too short for me, the harshness on the downs sent the Evil packing.
> 
> Thanks!


I know I've already posted about how much I liked the bike, but since no one has replied yet..... I thought it felt pretty plush, I had no comfort issues at all.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

wyatt79m said:


> I know I've already posted about how much I liked the bike, but since no one has replied yet..... I thought it felt pretty plush, I had no comfort issues at all.


Did you put your bike together yet? Where's the pics?


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

No, I haven't gathered all the parts yet.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

wyatt79m said:


> No, I haven't gathered all the parts yet.


Keep us posted once you get started.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Here's a review of the Yelli. I'm not affiliated in any way. Just thought there'd be interest:

http://thepathbikeshop.com/blog/2010/10/13/bike-review-canfield-yelli-screamy.html


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## slowlane (Feb 8, 2007)

After a month on my bike, I can say I am really liking it. It's the only 29er I've ridden. Changes since I originally built it, trimmed the downpull arm off the fr der and that's it. I'm more of a gravity guy and have always ridden more slack bikes. I wouldn't go any steeper than this bike but that is definitely a personal opinion and riding style. I have 2.25 Ardents on right now. They are fine but I would be interested in trying something bigger too. I don't think a Weirwolf LT will clear in the back but something wide and fast is going to get the nod when these tires are done. Here's a rerun pic because no one has posted it in Johnny Cash.


----------



## strangerthanmilhouse (Jan 18, 2007)

I've been on my yelli for about 3 weeks now. This bike is really smooth. Taken it to Pisgah 4x and it handles the tech quite well. Specs- lg silver Yelli, Reba maxle lite set at 100mm(temp) I9s, SLX cranks.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

strangerthanmilhouse said:


> I've been on my yelli for about 3 weeks now. This bike is really smooth.


Nice! I have been riding my Yelli at 140mm (started at 100mm) recently and I really dig it. It is a fun bike.


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

geolover said:


> Nice! I have been riding my Yelli at 140mm (started at 100mm) recently and I really dig it. It is a fun bike.


Slacker is better!


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

I bet :thumbsup: Is that the same Marz you originally snagged for it? Since I got my Pdox I've come to think of running it with a 120mm fork as XC mode  Would love to give a 140mm a try. Any vids from either of you guys who've been riding these things for a bit?


geolover said:


> Nice! I have been riding my Yelli at 140mm (started at 100mm) recently and I really dig it. It is a fun bike.


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

jncarpenter said:


> Slacker is better!


No doubt! Even with the Yelli at 67 degrees, it is the steepest HA bike I've had in quite awhile.



LyNx said:


> Is that the same Marz you originally snagged for it?


Yes, it is the 44 TST2. It was a decent fork at 100mm, but at 140 some unwanted traits are accentuated. With the tapered steerer it is a VERY stiff chassis, but the TST2 cart lacks some of the sublties of higher end forks (duh!). I need to get off my a$$ and get some (MOAR?) shims and convert the damper. The TST2 really could use some help, especially at 140. I still think it will end up being a great adjustable fork, especially for the price.

No vids from me and I won't have any anytime soon either as I'm at work (in AK...I live in WA) for another several weeks :madman: .


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Yeah, I'm hoping that when Banshee redesigns the P'dox they slack it out a degree or two. I think 67-68 should be the new HA for anything not XC, STA it would seem is super personal.


geolover said:


> No doubt! Even with the Yelli at 67 degrees, it is the steepest HA bike I've had in quite awhile.


Yeah, I bet it sucks to be up in Alaska to work :skep: Snap some pics for those of us who don't get to see places like that. Which part of AK you at?


geolover said:


> Yes, it is the 44 TST2. It was a decent fork at 100mm, but at 140 some unwanted traits are accentuated. With the tapered steerer it is a VERY stiff chassis, but the TST2 cart lacks some of the sublties of higher end forks (duh!). I need to get off my a$$ and get some (MOAR?) shims and convert the damper. The TST2 really could use some help, especially at 140. I still think it will end up being a great adjustable fork, especially for the price.
> 
> No vids from me and I won't have any anytime soon either as I'm at work (in AK...I live in WA) for another several weeks :madman: .


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Yeah, I bet it sucks to be up in Alaska to work :skep: Snap some pics for those of us who don't get to see places like that. Which part of AK you at?


While this is not a recent photo (and a different location than I am in currently), it does illustrate how all is not peaches and cream working in Alaska. YMMV.









PS - Yes, that road is constructed with frozen water.


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

geolover said:


> While this is not a recent photo (and a different location than I am in currently), it does illustrate how all is not peaches and cream working in Alaska. YMMV.
> 
> PS - Yes, that road is constructed with frozen water.


I'm thinking I just got some insight into your sig!


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Hallo!
So I'm going to order a Yelli screamy frame.
As I'm in assembling by myself, and I'll go with a 1'1/8'' straight fork, which Headset should I use? 
Is the head tube 1-1/8" ZeroStack top (44mm inside diameter) and 1.5" ZeroStack bottom (55.9mm inside diameter)?


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

savo said:


> Hallo!
> So I'm going to order a Yelli screamy frame.
> As I'm in assembling by myself, and I'll go with a 1'1/8'' straight fork, which Headset should I use?
> Is the head tube 1-1/8" ZeroStack top (44mm inside diameter) and 1.5" ZeroStack bottom (55.9mm inside diameter)?


It is listed as 50mm which I assume to be traditional (49.6). Cane Creek sells the uppers/lowers separate and has a reducer lower bearing.
EDIT: Yes, the upper is a Zerostack.


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

so what's the actual BB height w/ a 140 mm fork and 2.4 inch ardents or similar tires? from the geo chart, it should be around 12.5 inches or a bit more, which is still plenty low enough.

i'm still on the fence about whether a 140 mm 29er fork w/ only 32 mm stanchions is worth getting. 

no warranty issues with running a 140 on the yelli?


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

no warranty issues with running a 140 on the yelli?[/QUOTE]

No worries- Go for it. The Yelli Screamy's are tough. 
C2


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

frorider said:


> so what's the actual BB height w/ a 140 mm fork and 2.4 inch ardents or similar tires? from the geo chart, it should be around 12.5 inches or a bit more, which is still plenty low enough.
> 
> i'm still on the fence about whether a 140 mm 29er fork w/ only 32 mm stanchions is worth getting.


I think my YS with Marz 140 and Neve 2.2 (fairly good sized 2.2) is about 12.6...not sure exactly, but definitely less than 12.75. Sorry for the somewhat nebulous answer, but my bike is 1500 miles away...preventing any precise measuring.

Re: stiffness. I find the Marz to be a pretty stiff chassis...of course it is a tapered steerer which probably helps too. Not sure of any of the other 29er offerings...although, my Marz 140 29er is stiffer than my Minute 100 26er (1 1/8 steerer).


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

frorider said:


> so what's the actual BB height w/ a 140 mm fork and 2.4 inch ardents or similar tires? from the geo chart, it should be around 12.5 inches or a bit more, which is still plenty low enough.


My measured BB on a Sinister Simon Bar (same 70mm BB drop) with 2.25 Bontrager tires and Zoke 44 140mm fork is 13" Don't know how much that helps, but I think it is a valid comparison because the geometry with the exception of chain stay length is pretty similar.


----------



## sean salach (Sep 15, 2007)

Are you sure the Simon Bar is 70mm? That's 2.75". They list the height as 12.7", which, with a tire measuring 29.5" would be right around 2", or 50mm of drop...


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

sean salach said:


> Are you sure the Simon Bar is 70mm? That's 2.75". They list the height as 12.7", which, with a tire measuring 29.5" would be right around 2", or 50mm of drop...


70mm is an actual measurement on my bike with a 465mm fork. It would be a little less with a 480 fork to be comparable to the YS. (I just went to the garage and checked it again )

I have never found a reliable geometry chart from Sinister despite asking multiple times. I think the bike has changed in various production runs, but no one seems to know exactly how much. Well, I am sure the Sinister guys know but they have not exactly been generous with the information. Maybe that 50mm of drop is with a 120mm fork? I love that Canfield puts such a great specific geometry in this thread and I want to buy one simply because of that.

But....I need a single speed.


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Enel said:


> 70mm is an actual measurement on my bike with a 465mm fork. It would be a little less with a 480 fork to be comparable to the YS. (I just went to the garage and checked it again )
> 
> I have never found a reliable geometry chart from Sinister despite asking multiple times. I think the bike has changed in various production runs, but no one seems to know exactly how much. Well, I am sure the Sinister guys know but they have not exactly been generous with the information. Maybe that 50mm of drop is with a 120mm fork? I love that Canfield puts such a great specific geometry in this thread and I want to buy one simply because of that.
> 
> But....I need a single speed.


email Frank the Welder or PM him here (verticult) - I'm sure he knows what is what between the various batches he produced for Sinister.

Go straight to the source! :thumbsup:


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

Enel said:


> 70mm is an actual measurement on my bike with a 465mm fork. It would be a little less with a 480 fork to be comparable to the YS. (I just went to the garage and checked it again )
> 
> I have never found a reliable geometry chart from Sinister despite asking multiple times. I think the bike has changed in various production runs, but no one seems to know exactly how much. Well, I am sure the Sinister guys know but they have not exactly been generous with the information. Maybe that 50mm of drop is with a 120mm fork? I love that Canfield puts such a great specific geometry in this thread and I want to buy one simply because of that.
> 
> But....I need a single speed.


thanks. BB heights are notorious for ending up different than mfg'er claims. The Canfield geo chart truly is a model for what other companies should be providing. I've heard conflicting info on the Sinister geo variations...why they still have the steep HA on their website is beyond me (laziness?) but I haven't checked there in a while.

btw if you need a single speed but like the Canfield geo, why not install a forward components mini EBB.? http://www.forwardcycle.com/ They've been out long enough that I figured I'd get one next year if i decided to go from 1X6 to single speed on a frame like this.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Isn't the Nimble 9 going to have sliders for single speed ?


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

frorider said:


> btw if you need a single speed but like the Canfield geo, why not install a forward components mini EBB.? http://www.forwardcycle.com/ They've been out long enough that I figured I'd get one next year if i decided to go from 1X6 to single speed on a frame like this.


I took things into my own hands.

I looked at the current Sinister web page and the geo listed there is nothing like my bike. Mine is much slacker and the TT is shorter by an inch. It is very close the the Yelli Screamy and it rides _awesome_.


----------



## sean salach (Sep 15, 2007)

Enel said:


> 70mm is an actual measurement on my bike with a 465mm fork. It would be a little less with a 480 fork to be comparable to the YS. (I just went to the garage and checked it again )
> 
> I have never found a reliable geometry chart from Sinister despite asking multiple times. I think the bike has changed in various production runs, but no one seems to know exactly how much. Well, I am sure the Sinister guys know but they have not exactly been generous with the information. Maybe that 50mm of drop is with a 120mm fork? I love that Canfield puts such a great specific geometry in this thread and I want to buy one simply because of that.
> 
> But....I need a single speed.


Here you go:

http://www.sinisterbikes.com/sbforum/showthread.php?t=1115
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=456885&highlight=simon+bar


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Who knows the seatpost clamp diameter? it's the only thing not listed in the specs


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

anyone w/ a Large frame and a 120 mm fork, can you confirm that the wheelbase is around 44 inches? I'm estimating based on the geo .pdf.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

savo said:


> Who knows the seatpost clamp diameter? it's the only thing not listed in the specs


34.9mm for the clamp and 30.9 post-
C2


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

If anybody near philly gets a small or medium I'd gladly trade a choice 6 pack for a 60 second test ride. Don't even need to ride on a trail, a parking lot would be fine.


----------



## pureslop (Jul 28, 2008)

For those of you wanting single speed, 32X21 is perfect with this chainstay length and NO TENSIONER:

http://thepathbikeshop.com/blog/2010/10/13/bike-review-canfield-yelli-screamy.html


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

pureslop said:


> For those of you wanting single speed, 32X21 is perfect with this chainstay length and NO TENSIONER:
> 
> http://thepathbikeshop.com/blog/2010/10/13/bike-review-canfield-yelli-screamy.html


Very nice!! That's my gear.


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

Got my Yelli Screamy built up yesterday. I'm gonna take it out for a spin today and try to snap a few pics of it too.


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Enel said:


> Very nice!! That's my gear.


Very nice indeed! Did you check the weight on that bike too? Just a tad over 23 pounds...hot damn!


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

naya the dingo said:


> Got my Yelli Screamy built up yesterday. I'm gonna take it out for a spin today and try to snap a few pics of it too.


I'm really happy with my Yelli Screamy. I'll try to get a pic or two up, but that may not happen until Monday.


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

Okay, here it is. Most of the parts came off of my Rocky Mountain Vertex SE. I'm planning on swapping the 100mm fork to a 120mm tapered Fox. If I feel like I want it slacker, I'll go for an external lower headset. I also have a Chris King/Salsa Gordo wheelset being built, waiting on CK to anodize another batch of gold. Sorry for the crappy pics, I took them with my phone.


----------



## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Very nice indeed :thumbsup:  

Love the non drive side profile, ST/BB reinforcer and the short rear. Looks fit for purpose


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Very nice indeed :thumbsup:
> 
> Love the non drive side profile, ST/BB reinforcer and the short rear. Looks fit for purpose


Thanks! I'm really pleased with this bike. The frame is much stiffer laterally than my Rocky Mountain Vertex, but it is more compliant. :thumbsup:


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Looks nice, but a bit weird with those racey/XC tyres  I think more along the lines of Rampages, Bonti 29-4s, Ardents 2.4" etc on something like the Yelli, but then again my idea of XC geo has changed since I got my Paradox, could easily use it for XC.


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

LyNx said:


> Looks nice, but a bit weird with those racey/XC tyres  I think more along the lines of Rampages, Bonti 29-4s, Ardents 2.4" etc on something like the Yelli, but then again my idea of XC geo has changed since I got my Paradox, could easily use it for XC.


Yeah, I'm putting a pair of 2.4" Ardents on the new wheels when they are ready. Those 2.2" Race Kings already roll all over the place on the narrow 355's, I'm a bit of a clyde at 6'3" 280lbs.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Looks good  How does it climb?


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

naya the dingo said:


> Okay, here it is. Most of the parts came off of my Rocky Mountain Vertex SE. I'm planning on swapping the 100mm fork to a 120mm tapered Fox. If I feel like I want it slacker, I'll go for an external lower headset. I also have a Chris King/Salsa Gordo wheelset being built, waiting on CK to anodize another batch of gold. Sorry for the crappy pics, I took them with my phone.


Looks great!


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

Clink said:


> Looks good  How does it climb?


So far, so good! I haven't ridden any real super steep technical climbs yet, but I feel like it'll be fine. May require a little seat rape on the real steep stuff, but I couldn't possibly have to move as far forward on the saddle as my Intense 6.6 though.

Edit: I should add that I got my local shop to order the frame from Canfield for me. It cost the same, and I got to support the shop too! Anyone in the Richmond, VA area, go see Jesse at 3Sports.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

WTF is right!

humor misunderstood

//lurk mode on.......


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Careful or you might give yourself an anurism and this time not be so lucky 
BTW, has all that trouble you had caused you vision to be bad, or can you simply not read right? BTW the OP seemed to agree with me on this point, so WTF is your problem, can a person not have their own opinion and share it and not gush over someone's bike and still be a good person. Now go take some blood thinners or something.

LyNx=I think more along the lines of Rampages, Bonti 29-4s, Ardents 2.4" etc on something like the Yelli,



slocaus said:


> No, do what LyNx says! Gotta GOTTA *GOTTA* be Rampages, use Ardents and you will die, or at least fudge up the space / time continuum. Everyone has to ride like him...... :madman:  :madman:  :madman:  :madman:  :madman:  (gotta have lots of head banging too.....)
> 
> Sweet bike ,from what I can see of the pics. (I have to scroll right left up down to try to get them on my laptop they are so big. I cannot get a full view of the bike on screen.


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

I still haven't gotten my new wheelset yet, but I threw a pair of 2.4 Ardents on the YS and headed to Asheville, NC to visit some friends on Friday. We rode Pisgah (Mills River area I think) on Saturday, and Dupont on Sunday. I am absolutely in love with this bike, super fun and confidence inspiring. I got a chance to test it's climbing abilities more thoroughly this weekend, even with the short stem it climbs great. I wish we had taken a camera with us, maybe next time. :thumbsup:


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## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

naya the dingo said:


> I still haven't gotten my new wheelset yet, but I threw a pair of 2.4 Ardents on the YS and headed to Asheville, NC to visit some friends on Friday. We rode Pisgah (Mills River area I think) on Saturday, and Dupont on Sunday. I am absolutely in love with this bike, super fun and confidence inspiring. I got a chance to test it's climbing abilities more thoroughly this weekend, even with the short stem it climbs great. I wish we had taken a camera with us, maybe next time. :thumbsup:


 Does the 2.4 Ardent clear good in the rear w no interference with the FD or chain in the granny gears ? TIG.


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

TIGMAN said:


> Does the 2.4 Ardent clear good in the rear w no interference with the FD or chain in the granny gears ? TIG.


Yeah, the 2.4 clears no problem. I trimmed the dérailleur arm off and you can run any gear combo with no rubbing. I'll see if I can get some pictures of it tomorrow.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I had a chance to spend the day on a Yelli Screamy Saturday with Chris Canfiled, this is one fun bike to ride.

I fired off an email last week inquiring about the frame and decided to ask if there was anything in my area to ride. Just by luck, Chris was in the area and offered to hook up for a ride. To be honest, I expected him to skip out as we were meeting at the crack of dawn and the weather forecast really sucked, but what do you know, he showed up ready to ride and the weather turned out pretty good after all.

As for the bike, by far the best 29er hardtail I've ridden so far, it was like they designed this frame to be ridden on my local trails, Lots of Tight and twisty, up and downs. The short chainstays were very evident, it handled the tight twisty trails superbly and made my SS rigid Niner Sir9 feel like a tank. The rear end just followed you around any corner you pointed the front wheel down. The medium Yelli Screamy I rode easily out weighed my Niner by several pounds and was built up with a Fox 32 F29 set at 80mm, riser bars, 70mm stem, 3x9 gearing and Kenda Small Block 8s.
In the air the bike felt very stable and everything I went off of I landed with confidence, not that I was going big. It was also very easy to pump the rolls/small bumps and drive it into the burms.

On the climbs, which we did a lot of, the front end did not wander. I was kind of concerned as I could easily manual the Yelli over bumps on the trails or puddles on the road. It was very easy to loft the front end over the many log overs that seem to be prevalent at our local trails. The 80mm fork that was on this bike could also contribute to the front end staying planted on the climbs. The one thing I found tuff about this bike was standing and climbing, I'm not sure why, but climbing seated seemed to work best.

The build quality is nice. I didn't go over the bike with a magnifying glass, but everything looked well thought out.

I was amazed by how well the Yelli Screamy rode and out performed my Niner by a long shot, and I'm by no means a techy bike geek. The Yelli Screamy is aluminum and I could definitely feel the difference between this and my steel Niner, but I would gladly take the handling characteristics of the Canflied over the Niners steel compliance any day.

Hopefully I will have my frame in the next month or so and the bike completely built up by the spring.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

OldHouseMan said:


> I had a chance to spend the day on a Yelli Screamy Saturday with Chris Canfiled, this is one fun bike to ride.....Hopefully I will have my frame in the next month or so and the bike completely built up by the spring.


Nice. It really is THAT fun. Seriously.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

He he, yes I went from a SIR9 to a ('similar') Banshee Paradox :eekster:     :thumbsup:


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

I think Cranfield have dialled 29er spot on with this frame, great looking bike.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

OldHouseMan said:


> The one thing I found tuff about this bike was standing and climbing, I'm not sure why, but climbing seated seemed to work best.


OHM, can you elaborate on this? I was just thinking how the long TT and short chainstays might contribute to decent performance when standing & climbing. I remember 13 years ago learning to purposefully pull up on my bars while pushing on the cranks to get the most climbing traction out of the semi-slick mtb tires on my old Performance HT. Those tires were a bad idea in so many ways, but I digress. The point is, I felt like I was levering the rear end into dirt around the bottom bracket. In my mind it seemed like there would be a sweet spot for chainstay length while doing this: too long and you loose mechanical advantage, too short and it is wheelies when you need them the least. In any case, my Karate Monkey SS, with its 17" chainstays (give or take a half inch - my rear wheel is in mid position), seems to strike a decent balance. Although that distinct levering feeling is hard to detect now - the Performance definitely had longer stays. I wonder if the Canfield crosses over into being too short for standing & climbing? I realize my reminiscing about an old bike is not very interesting, but some more adjectives and observations about climbing on the Yelli certainly would be. Hook us up, yo!


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

buddhak said:


> OHM, can you elaborate on this? I was just thinking how the long TT and short chainstays might contribute to decent performance when standing & climbing. I remember 13 years ago learning to purposefully pull up on my bars while pushing on the cranks to get the most climbing traction out of the semi-slick mtb tires on my old Performance HT. Those tires were a bad idea in so many ways, but I digress. The point is, I felt like I was levering the rear end into dirt around the bottom bracket. In my mind it seemed like there would be a sweet spot for chainstay length while doing this: too long and you loose mechanical advantage, too short and it is wheelies when you need them the least. In any case, my Karate Monkey SS, with its 17" chainstays (give or take a half inch - my rear wheel is in mid position), seems to strike a decent balance. Although that distinct levering feeling is hard to detect now - the Performance definitely had longer stays. I wonder if the Canfield crosses over into being too short for standing & climbing? I realize my reminiscing about an old bike is not very interesting, but some more adjectives and observations about climbing on the Yelli certainly would be. Hook us up, yo!


I had on a set of Small block 8's on his Demo bike and it was really wet. I bet he had no traction. 
I love the shorter stays- And, I prefer the the Nimble 9 set at about 16.3 SS the best.

Just wait til you ride one-

C2


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

geolover said:


> Nice. It really is THAT fun. Seriously.


+1 Everyone that has ridden mine has really liked it.

I didn't have any problem standing and climbing, but I do sit and climb typically. Three of my friends that I rode with this past weekend have Bystickels, two of them have shorter chainstays than the Yelli Screamy. All three of those guys can climb up pretty much anything sitting or standing with their short chainstay bikes.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

cSquared said:


> I had on a set of Small block 8's on his Demo bike and it was really wet. I bet he had no traction.
> I love the shorter stays- And, I prefer the the Nimble 9 set at about 16.3 SS the best.
> 
> Just wait til you ride one-
> ...


The loins are a-tinglin'


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

> I had on a set of Small block 8's on his Demo bike and it was really wet. I bet he had no traction.
> I love the shorter stays- And, I prefer the the Nimble 9 set at about 16.3 SS the best.
> 
> Just wait til you ride one-


Any news on the Nimble 9?


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Can you lot post please some clear sharp pics so I can store them for my bike porn use. 
Ps Canfield's site info is a bit s*ite don't you think?


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

TIGMAN said:


> Does the 2.4 Ardent clear good in the rear w no interference with the FD or chain in the granny gears ? TIG.


Ardent 2.4s on a narrow 19mm internal width rim, still plenty of room with a wide rim.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

buddhak said:


> OHM, can you elaborate on this? I was just thinking how the long TT and short chainstays might contribute to decent performance when standing & climbing. I remember 13 years ago learning to purposefully pull up on my bars while pushing on the cranks to get the most climbing traction out of the semi-slick mtb tires on my old Performance HT. Those tires were a bad idea in so many ways, but I digress. The point is, I felt like I was levering the rear end into dirt around the bottom bracket. In my mind it seemed like there would be a sweet spot for chainstay length while doing this: too long and you loose mechanical advantage, too short and it is wheelies when you need them the least. In any case, my Karate Monkey SS, with its 17" chainstays (give or take a half inch - my rear wheel is in mid position), seems to strike a decent balance. Although that distinct levering feeling is hard to detect now - the Performance definitely had longer stays. I wonder if the Canfield crosses over into being too short for standing & climbing? I realize my reminiscing about an old bike is not very interesting, but some more adjectives and observations about climbing on the Yelli certainly would be. Hook us up, yo!


I think it may be more that I'm accustom to standing and grinding on my rigid SS, so it's probably more of a technique thing and me getting familiar with the different geometry on the Canfield, but it did feel different than my Niner Sir9.

It's was a very, very small complaint and definitely not a deal breaker.


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## MPK2 (Nov 15, 2007)

*does it accelerate any quicker?*

Just curious for those who have ridden the yelli...have you noticed if the short stays make it any quicker to spin the wheels up to speed? I find my 29er a little sluggish but I think something like the nimble 9 might solve the handling issues that I don't like about my current ride.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

MPK2 said:


> Just curious for those who have ridden the yelli...have you noticed if the short stays make it any quicker to spin the wheels up to speed? I find my 29er a little sluggish but I think something like the nimble 9 might solve the handling issues that I don't like about my current ride.


Haven't ridden the Yelli, but rear wheel acceleration is going to be a function of gearing, wheel specs, and crank arm length. Chainstay length does not enter the equation. But we all know that stiff shiny new bikes certainly feel faster.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

OHM, 

It was cool that Chris made it by our neck of the country, great meeting him and doing a little xc with him considering he almost needs a pilot's license for a lot of the riding he does. Nice guy building some sick stuff.

I was impressed with the Yellis and how compact they were for 29ers...great for the stuff we were riding. With your build, I would guess you are going to lighten things some from the demo setup and go with SS? Rigid fork? I'll be interested to see how it comes out.


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## redster0229 (Aug 25, 2009)

Waited too long for ride reports. Now their out of the frame my size, small. Chris said he don't know when he'll get them back in stock. Maybe till the rest of the stock is low enough to order another batch overseas. Can't wait to have one.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

wobbem said:


> Can you lot post please some clear sharp pics so I can store them for my bike porn use.
> Ps Canfield's site info is a bit s*ite don't you think?


Ditto


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

redster0229 said:


> Waited too long for ride reports. Now their out of the frame my size, small. Chris said he don't know when he'll get them back in stock. Maybe till the rest of the stock is low enough to order another batch overseas. Can't wait to have one.


That's too bad  I was planning on waiting until spring to pick mine up, but you just prompted me to have it under the Christmas tree. So, that's one more frame closer to them making another run for you.


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

redster0229 said:


> Waited too long for ride reports. Now their out of the frame my size, small. Chris said he don't know when he'll get them back in stock. Maybe till the rest of the stock is low enough to order another batch overseas. Can't wait to have one.


That sucks, but it'll be worth the wait!:thumbsup:


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Malibu412 said:


> OHM,
> 
> It was cool that Chris made it by our neck of the country, great meeting him and doing a little xc with him considering he almost needs a pilot's license for a lot of the riding he does. Nice guy building some sick stuff.
> 
> I was impressed with the Yellis and how compact they were for 29ers...great for the stuff we were riding. With your build, I would guess you are going to lighten things some from the demo setup and go with SS? Rigid fork? I'll be interested to see how it comes out.


It was pretty cool that Chris came up, still impressed that he met us at 7:30 on a day that was forecasted to be pretty wet and cold, to do an Xc ride no less.

I'm going with a 1X9 over the SS and will build it with either the Fox Talas or Rock Shox Reba in the 120mm flavor. Just have to decide if I want to fork out (pun intended) the extra dough for the Talas over the Reba.

And something else I noticed about the Yelli Screamy. It seemed like I could track stand this bike for as long as I pleased. Not sure why, but it sure felt balanced.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

OldHouseMan said:


> It was pretty cool that Chris came up, still impressed that he met us at 7:30 on a day that was forecasted to be pretty wet and cold, to do an Xc ride no less.
> 
> I'm going with a 1X9 over the SS and will build it with either the Fox Talas or Rock Shox Reba in the 120mm flavor. Just have to decide if I want to fork out (pun intended) the extra dough for the Talas over the Reba.
> 
> And something else I noticed about the Yelli Screamy. It seemed like I could track stand this bike for as long as I pleased. Not sure why, but it sure felt balanced.


What crank and what toothed chainring are you going to run? I'm considering this route too. I'm also thinking about going with a 30t chainring, but am unclear whether a 94/58 crank will work with the tight spaces on the Yelli.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> What crank and what toothed chainring are you going to run? I'm considering this route too. I'm also thinking about going with a 30t chainring, but am unclear whether a 94/58 crank will work with the tight spaces on the Yelli.


I have a set of MRP Camber cranks with a 32T ring, will be using a 11-34 in the rear.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Was wondering what fork you were going to go with, if it's any help, on my Paradox I have absolutely no issues climbing with the 120 Minute it has on, none what so ever, no matter how steep -_ In case that's what you were worried about._ Heck if you want to save some coin you could get hold of a 2010 Minute quite cheap - that is IF you didn't want the tapered steerer.



OldHouseMan said:


> It was pretty cool that Chris came up, still impressed that he met us at 7:30 on a day that was forecasted to be pretty wet and cold, to do an Xc ride no less.
> 
> I'm going with a 1X9 over the SS and will build it with either the Fox Talas or Rock Shox Reba in the 120mm flavor. Just have to decide if I want to fork out (pun intended) the extra dough for the Talas over the Reba.
> 
> And something else I noticed about the Yelli Screamy. It seemed like I could track stand this bike for as long as I pleased. Not sure why, but it sure felt balanced.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

LyNx said:


> Was wondering what fork you were going to go with, if it's any help, on my Paradox I have absolutely no issues climbing with the 120 Minute it has on, none what so ever, no matter how steep -_ In case that's what you were worried about._ Heck if you want to save some coin you could get hold of a 2010 Minute quite cheap - that is IF you didn't want the tapered steerer.


The Fox Talas is on my radar but it's a little to spendy for my taste and in the past when I get the most fiddly stuff, I never use them.

I would like to try a tapered fork since the headtube on the Yelli Screamy is tapered but I do have a brand new White Brothers Fluid 110 sitting around not being used. I am trying to sell it but if it doesn't sell by the time I gather all the parts, I'll throw it on.

I need to look at the Minute a little more, never considered it.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Why spend money when you already have a fork there to use. Use the WB for the time being and hold out and wait on the new offerings soon to be coming - I know Manitou is doing a tapered Minute, maybe 140mm :skep: and there's rumors all down the pipeline of other stuff to come. For me the Minute was a no brainer, picked it up when Jenson was blowing them out in '08 and it has been fantastic, only thing I'd like for it is the Absolute+ damper - _only have the Absolute right now._ For me 120mm is where it's at since at the end of a ride I normally see I've used up all my travel, but don't think 10mm would kill, only thing that might effect it is offset.



OldHouseMan said:


> The Fox Talas is on my radar but it's a little to spendy for my taste and in the past when I get the most fiddly stuff, I never use them.
> 
> I would like to try a tapered fork since the headtube on the Yelli Screamy is tapered but _*I do have a brand new White Brothers Fluid 110 sitting around not being used.*_ I am trying to sell it but if it doesn't sell by the time I gather all the parts, I'll throw it on.
> 
> I need to look at the Minute a little more, never considered it.


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## redster0229 (Aug 25, 2009)

YEah, I know it will be worth the wait.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Uhm, I'm into assembling my new Yelli, but I've a problem with the chainset: I've a Race Face Deus and I'm going to put on a single ring 32t. well this 32t ring (I've a SS ring, but regular one has same problem) in middle position touches the chainstay... aren't you using 32t middle ring? or does the Deus have a narrower chain line?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

There's a video on youtube with them discussing this. It is designed for a 50-51mm chainline while keeping the gap between the ring and chainstay small enough to prevent chain suck. I'm not familiar with the Deus, but do you have all the necessary spacers for install? It uses a 73mm BB shell so you would typically need one spacer on the drive side only.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Found the data sheet for the deus, it has nominally a 50mm chain line, but it should be possible to arrange spindle spacers to have a 51mm chain line. I'll try this, hoping it's enough, but I'm not so positive. Of course for bb cups one spacer on the drive side only.



car_nut said:


> There's a video on youtube with them discussing this. It is designed for a 50-51mm chainline while keeping the gap between the ring and chainstay small enough to prevent chain suck. I'm not familiar with the Deus, but do you have all the necessary spacers for install? It uses a 73mm BB shell so you would typically need one spacer on the drive side only.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

savo said:


> Found the data sheet for the deus, it has nominally a 50mm chain line, but it should be possible to arrange spindle spacers to have a 51mm chain line.


Right! my spindle spacers was set for a 49mm chain line (done for my previous bike and forgot), now I swapped to a 51mm and it works, also with the SS chainring, wich has longer teeth. perfect.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

:thumbsup: Glad it worked for you.

On a personal note, Brown Santa is on his way with mine. Black frame, white Flows w/blue Hopes. I've also got a newborn in the house, so it's all going to be garage art until spring.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

thanks car_nut
Mine is black frame, duc32 fork, silver p35 rims and silver parts. will be ready in a few days. i'll post pics when finished.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Can't wait to see the pics. This thread needs more bike porn.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

If you boys snap up all the Lg black frames before xmas, I am gonna be
way pissed.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Sorry man. I was originally going to wait until spring to pick mine up, but seeing the small sold out got me motivated.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

*My new Yelli Screamy*

Here it is!
First pics just out of the door, no trail riding yet, so no riding impressions.
Looks wonderful to me.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Those Maverick forks look good. The only thing is: you need the weird 24/7 hubs.

Does it limit turning?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

savo said:


> Looks wonderful to me.


 And you'd be correct! That looks fantastic.

Can you tell me a bit about that fork? I've never heard of it but it looks great.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

perttime said:


> Those Maverick forks look good. The only thing is: you need the weird 24/7 hubs.


I think maverick hub to be a great hub, long and wide axle and wide flange. Very nice as I can see.


perttime said:


> Does it limit turning?


When riding, not at all. Maybe, together with the large bar (760mm), a bit limiting when handling the bike by hand, i.e. inside the garage


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Can you tell me a bit about that fork? I've never heard of it but it looks great.


DUC32 fork is no more produced as i know (Maverick is working on a carbon DUC36). it's a 6'' 26er upside down fork, converted to a 4.5'' 29er one. I've never seriously ridden it yet, so no riding impressions, it's the first time i've it on a bike.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Looks sweet :thumbsup: love how the fork matches the frame so well - _love matte finishes for bikes, unless it's Candie Apple RED_  Did you get the DUC speaially painted or did it come that matte black? Never thought about the dual crown limiting turning, but I guess it would/could, although I personally can't really balance my bike if the bars are turned much more than 45 degrees. Waiting for ride impressions. Sweet tyre combo too, it's what I'd run if the rain would ever ease off for more than a couple days at a time, currently have Michelin XC A/T out back to help with the mud, but Rampy upfront and loving it. 2.25" Ardent right?



savo said:


> Here it is!
> First pics just out of the door, no trail riding yet, so no riding impressions.
> Looks wonderful to me.


----------



## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

Nice.......hey savo , what pedals are you using ? They look super thin and are they grippy & comfortable during long rides ? Thanks ! TIG.


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## el-cid (May 21, 2004)

TIGMAN said:


> Nice.......hey savo , what pedals are you using ? They look super thin and are they grippy & comfortable during long rides ? Thanks ! TIG.


They lool like Canfield's own Crampon pedals. Seems like they got pretty positive reviews; they are nice and thin.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Never thought about the dual crown limiting turning, but I guess it would/could, although I personally can't really balance my bike if the bars are turned much more than 45 degrees.


I have no first hand experience but recall someone mentioning it in connection with some DC fork with some DH/FR frame.

I think thin pedals like the crampons have a couple of things going for them:
- they get the rider a few mm closer to the ground, for lower center of gravity
- they give a few mm more ground clearance between pedal and the rocks


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

LyNx said:


> Did you get the DUC speaially painted or did it come that matte black?


It come that matte black, and it's exactly the same anodized finish as the frame's. That's very nice even thinking I got this fork month before I ever decided to buy this frame.


LyNx said:


> Never thought about the dual crown limiting turning, but I guess it would/could, although I personally can't really balance my bike if the bars are turned much more than 45 degrees.


It'n not limiting at all: you can turn the bars up to - i guess, not measured - 75-80 degs


LyNx said:


> Waiting for ride impressions. Sweet tyre combo too, it's what I'd run if the rain would ever ease off for more than a couple days at a time, currently have Michelin XC A/T out back to help with the mud, but Rampy upfront and loving it. 2.25" Ardent right?


Yes 2.25'' Ardent for the post. 
I can't wait for riding too, but won't be tomorrow, unfortunatly.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Yes pedals are Canfield's Crampon. very nice and thin, I hope they're as good for riding as they look.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Can you tell me what the wheel base is with the 100mm and 120mm forks? 
Much obliged.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Damn Savo,

How tall are you?

DIY grips in the accenting blue are a nice touch. Velocity p35 rims? Can't wait to hear how it rides. Bravo.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

buddhak said:


> Damn Savo,
> 
> How tall are you?
> 
> DIY grips in the accenting blue are a nice touch. Velocity p35 rims? Can't wait to hear how it rides. Bravo.


Tall but not so tall, actually: I'm 187cm (6'2'), frame is an XL and I know here I can find people who could try to convince me that the correct size would have been an M. But I feel great on long top tube.
Yes they are P35, very wide indeed!
Thanks buddhak


----------



## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: Same height, don't give me an ETT shorter than 25"



savo said:


> Tall but not so tall, actually: I'm 187cm (6'2'), frame is an XL and_* I know here I can find people who could try to convince me that the correct size would have been an M. But I feel great on long top tube.*_
> Yes they are P35, very wide indeed!
> Thanks buddhak


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Brown Santa stopped by with a little xmas cheer. The quality of the frame looks fantastic and it was covered in literally 15lbs of packing material. I should have a ride report in April


----------



## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

Doesn't look like a whole lot of people have checked out the video the Brothers shot for this bike over in Youtube-land.






I really think this will be my next frame...


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

No, I already saw it. I still bought one in spite of their dancing


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Glad I had nothing to do with that one. HAHA My style of riding but your right about that dancing, I'm more of a hold the wall up kinda guy.


----------



## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

Sweet ride you got there Savo! Sent you a PM with some Q's


----------



## capslayer (Nov 19, 2006)

Hopefully they have a few black mediums left as I have to wait a week to get mine. Can't wait!


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

Notch Johnson said:


> Sweet ride you got there Savo! Sent you a PM with some Q's


Please post the questions and answers here for all to see, that would be helpful for everyone interested in this bike.

Unless, of course, they are personal, intimate questions that we would not want to know.....


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

slocaus said:


> Please post the questions and answers here for all to see, that would be helpful for everyone interested in this bike.
> 
> Unless, of course, they are personal, intimate questions that we would not want to know.....


He wanted to know about Nimble 9 production- price and release date.

So- March or so-
600- retail
and black, blue, green.

We are going to releasing the frames for pre-order on the webstore around the first of the year. 
Only 100 available.

C2


----------



## capslayer (Nov 19, 2006)

cSquared said:


> He wanted to know about Nimble 9 production- price and release date.
> 
> So- March or so-
> 600- retail
> ...


Just curious, how many black medium Yelli's are left in stock at the moment? I am in the process of selling some parts to afford this frame, but it might be a couple weeks. Thanks!


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

cSquared said:


> He wanted to know about Nimble 9 production- price and release date.
> 
> So- March or so-
> 600- retail
> ...


It would be geat if you could sort a decent pre-order price with Si at progressive bikes in the UK - tax going up in UK in January and we'll be hit hard.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

CuzinMike said:


> Doesn't look like a whole lot of people have checked out the video the Brothers shot for this bike over in Youtube-land.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That little manual at the 25 second mark pretty much convinces me that I need this frame. Problem is I farted around too long and the smalls are sold out. :madman:


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Clink said:


> It would be geat if you could sort a decent pre-order price with Si at progressive bikes in the UK - tax going up in UK in January and we'll be hit hard.


I just email Si about frames. Last I talked to him, he's inventory got robbed.


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

cSquared said:


> I just email Si about frames. Last I talked to him, he's inventory got robbed.


He certainly got some stuff nicked 

Si runs a good setup - very good customer service. Estimate on UK price for N9 would be good.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

B-B-B-B-Bump

Question to cSquared: I was sifting over the Nimble 9 threads and I got curious. Now that you have settled on a builder, and on a specific slider type, care to leak some details about the custom sliders? Pictures? Words? Anything, for fooks sake, I'm like a diabetic in the desert!


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

nevermind


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

*Meeting today*

Yes it's true. There in production.

The bike you've seen is what we are doing. The only changes from the picure here are:

1. the down tube will be straight at the head tube (with clearance for your forks) and a gusset on the bottom. We found during testing that the bend really does add more flex.

2. The routing under the top tube will be like the Yelli Screamy with three single routers for a clean "bundle" routing (all zip tie together of one router).

We will be doing black, any requests for other colors?


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Something bright - blue or green?


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Price?
ISCG?


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

We are doing both green and blue- along with the black.
Retail is 600
an no ISCG- the stays are too short for the Hammer backer plate to fit.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

If you need a guide these are a couple great ones. Just ones that come to mind in 30 sec or less.


----------



## capslayer (Nov 19, 2006)

I just mounted a BB mount Lopes MRP guide on my new Yelli and it fits perfectly. I prefer it as it only weighs a little more than the 1.X but keeps the chain slap down and helps keep the chain on in rough sections of trail. Cool thing about a single ring set up is it drops about 3/4 lb. off your bike. :thumbsup:


----------



## sanjuanswan (Aug 10, 2008)

What's the standover height on the Nimble-9 medium?


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Standover on the medium is 418mm above the BB-


----------



## chase1963 (Jul 31, 2007)

Pictures of the blue & green would be great. Wondering what shades..


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

chase1963 said:


> Pictures of the blue & green would be great. Wondering what shades..


No pics of the blue and green yet- since there is no frames built yet.
Both shades are on the light side-


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

I'm getting the hots for a Yelli Screamy.

Anyone know if a XX crank with 26/39 rings will fit in those stays?
And sizing...I'm 6' with a 36" inseam...usually ride a bike with a 24" top tube with regular Xc geo...not used to the slacker angles. Ideas?


----------



## slowlane (Feb 8, 2007)

the mayor said:


> I'm getting the hots for a Yelli Screamy.
> 
> Anyone know if a XX crank with 26/39 rings will fit in those stays?
> And sizing...I'm 6' with a 36" inseam...usually ride a bike with a 24" top tube with regular Xc geo...not used to the slacker angles. Ideas?


I had to use an extra spacer for a 22/36 XT setup and it's pretty close.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

slowlane said:


> I had to use an extra spacer for a 22/36 XT setup and it's pretty close.


Thanks....
Do you think there's enough room in there for a 26 with the extra spacer?

hmmmm, this could be a deal breaker. I really don't use anything lower than a 26 small ring....and use a 36 or 38 big ring in the middle position.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

I have a XX in my model but haven't been able to verify the actual fit with a real crank set yet. It shows a 26 fitting and a 28 fitting but really tight. The big ring shows it fitting up to a 44 tooth so it should be no problem. It's set at the manufacture spec.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

slowlane said:


> I had to use an extra spacer for a 22/36 XT setup and it's pretty close.


XT spec is with a spacer on the drive side, and yea it's close but that prevents chain suck. Thats how it should be, 5mm of space or more and you jam your chain between the yoke and rings.


----------



## 7HVN (Jun 25, 2004)

ETA for the new batch of small Yelli Screamy's?

Please, oh please, make some more smalls! I need a new long distance endurance HT.

Thx

PS Can y'all make some greens.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

We are thinking of a green-(light like Wasabi) and orange anodize for the next run. 
Not sure when it will be ordered though- 
Just waiting on the funds to free up to do the next run. 
Should be around May to June for the next batch.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

cSquared said:


> We are thinking of a green-(light like Wasabi) and orange anodize for the next run.
> Not sure when it will be ordered though-
> Just waiting on the funds to free up to do the next run.
> Should be around May to June for the next batch.


A WASABI would be awesome....
my only issue is i dont know whether i should wait for the nimble or yelli..


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

I can certainly understand where you might not want to answer this from a strategic point of view, but how has the Yelli turned out for you guys from a business point of view? This is certainly a new area of the market that you guys are targeting being both a 29er and a HT(have you guys ever done a HT?). I'm hoping it's been beyond your expectations and that we'll continue to see HT's being part of your line up.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

cSquared said:


> We are thinking of a green-(light like Wasabi) and orange anodize for the next run.
> Not sure when it will be ordered though-
> Just waiting on the funds to free up to do the next run.
> Should be around May to June for the next batch.


Orange????
I want.
You guys are killing me.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Should be around May to June for the next batch.


Whhhaaaaatttt ? Damn, I screwed up. If anybody with a small wants to sell hit me up.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

cSquared said:


> We are thinking of a green-(light like Wasabi) and orange anodize for the next run.
> Not sure when it will be ordered though-
> Just waiting on the funds to free up to do the next run.
> Should be around May to June for the next batch.


You guys have any demo frames you want to sell ?


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

92gli said:


> You guys have any demo frames you want to sell ?


Yes- but not in small- 
We are always looking to off the demo's- just to keep the demo's looking fresh.
So if anyones looking- I have a black med, gold large, and silver med and XL-

Always nice to sell off the demo frames and replace them with a new ones.

The YS have been killer for us. HT's will be in the line up forever! 
c2


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

cSquared said:


> Yes- but not in small-
> We are always looking to off the demo's- just to keep the demo's looking fresh.
> So if anyones looking- I have a black med, gold large, and silver med and XL-
> 
> ...


could you message me the price for the med demo frame?


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Same here - send me price for med demo?


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

cSquared said:


> Yes- but not in small-
> We are always looking to off the demo's- just to keep the demo's looking fresh.
> So if anyones looking- I have a black med, gold large, and silver med and XL-
> 
> ...


PM'd you about the XL. I could probably make a large work too.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

jeffw-13 said:


> PM'd you about the XL. I could probably make a large work too.


How tall are you?


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

cSquared said:


> How tall are you?


6'3" (all legs) I usually get a frame with around a 24.5 ett for the shorter wheelbase but have to stretch it out with a set back seat post & 100mm stem. Im thinking the XL Yelli with a shorter stem and/or regular seatpost will be money.


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

i'm definitely interested in the Gold Large demo frame. PM sent.


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

jeffw-13 said:


> 6'3" (all legs) I usually get a frame with around a 24.5 ett for the shorter wheelbase but have to stretch it out with a set back seat post & 100mm stem. Im thinking the XL Yelli with a shorter stem and/or regular seatpost will be money.


Fit is so personal. I'm 6'3" with a short 32" inseam, and I have a large YS with a 50mm stem and 711mm wide 38mm rise bar. I think the fact that my torso is so long, that I'm able to get the weight over the front end when I need to. If I'm on a bike with a stretched out cockpit, I feel like I have way too much weight on the front end. My wrists will also let me know, haha. Just sort of rambling out loud here.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

naya the dingo said:


> Fit is so personal. I'm 6'3" with a short 32" inseam,


I have a 35" inseam. My son is 6' 6" & we wear the same size pants :lol:


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Woohoo! I got dibs on the silver/med demo frame

Question: have any of you YS owners run an 80mm fork yet??? That's what I currently have so it'll have to do for a few months until I can secure a proper fork for this bike. Just curious how it rides if anyone has done it.

Another question: What headset are you guys running?


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

DFYFZX said:


> Woohoo! I got dibs on the silver/med demo frame


..and the size L gold ano is taken.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

DFYFZX said:


> Another question: What headset are you guys running?


Cane Creek's a'la carte: ZS top and 1.5" bottom


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Cane Creek's a'la carte: ZS top and 1.5" bottom


Thanks! I know NOTHING about headsets so the recommendation is appreciated:thumbsup:


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

The headset is a 44mm upper and a 50mm lower cup. 

The YS rides nice with a 80mm fork, the things to note are the headangle will be 70deg. The BB will be low at 70mm drop so running a short crank is recommended. With 175 cranks I touch the ground quite a bit, especially in turns. 170's are ok, I'd run a 165 crank with our Crampon pedals for the best clearance.


----------



## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

DFYFZX said:


> Question: have any of you YS owners run an 80mm fork yet??? That's what I currently have so it'll have to do for a few months until I can secure a proper fork for this bike. Just curious how it rides if anyone has done it.


It will ride fine, especially if that is what you are used to. What frame are you coming from?


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm riding a L Motobecane Fly Ti right now and have felt since day one that it's slightly too big and too racy. I'm a simple trail rider that goes out for fun. I wasn't planning on a new frame anytime soon but I messaged Mr. cSquared about the price of a demo frame and it was too good to pass up I should be able to sell my Ti frame and Masterpiece post to fund the YS quite easily 

Right now my Fly should be around a 71 degree head angle and the YS will be 70 with the same fork. When the budget allows, I plan to upgrade to a Fox/RockShox/White Brothers fork with 100mm travel, tapered steerer and thru axle. For now, the Magic80 will have to do...


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

frorider said:


> ..and the size L gold ano is taken.


And the silver XL :thumbsup:


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

flymybike said:


> The headset is a 44mm upper and a 50mm lower cup.
> 
> The YS rides nice with a 80mm fork, the things to note are the headangle will be 70deg. The BB will be low at 70mm drop so running a short crank is recommended. With 175 cranks I touch the ground quite a bit, especially in turns. 170's are ok, I'd run a 165 crank with our Crampon pedals for the best clearance.


I figured that pedal strikes would be common. I have a set of narrow pedals, sorry, not yours:madman: , but I will have to be conscious of my 175mm crank arms until I get a more fitting fork:madman:


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

You might want to check that fork. It probably has a spacer in there that can be removed to give you 100mm. Or, if it's like my bikedirect bike, it never had it installed and you're already at 100mm.

For headsets, Cane Creek offers the uppers and lowers separate which makes life easier for the tapered head tubes.
The top bearing is a 1-1/8" Zero Stack spec(ZS-3): http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/21111-205_CACUP0-3-Parts-63-Headsets/Cane-Creek-Upper-Headset-Assembly.htm

The bottom of the head tube is a 1.5" Traditional spec. You then choose the bearing based on a 1.5" or 1-1/8" steerer. If you're fitting your Reba, you'll need a XXc II Bottom Assembly (HSS2420K): http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/21110-205_CACLW0-3-Parts-63-Headsets/Cane-Creek-Lower-Headset-Assembly.htm


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

DFYFZX said:


> Woohoo! I got dibs on the silver/med demo frame
> 
> Question: have any of you YS owners run an 80mm fork yet??? That's what I currently have so it'll have to do for a few months until I can secure a proper fork for this bike. Just curious how it rides if anyone has done it.
> 
> Another question: What headset are you guys running?


I used the 100mm fork and internal headset off of my old frame. It handles fine and I haven't had a ridiculous amount of pedal strikes, but I am gonna get a 120mm fork and an external lower headset to slacken it out some more and get a little more space underneath the bottom bracket. The 80mm fork and external lower headset will sit pretty close to where mine does now.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

car_nut said:


> You might want to check that fork. It probably has a spacer in there that can be removed to give you 100mm. Or, if it's like my bikedirect bike, it never had it installed and you're already at 100mm.
> 
> For headsets, Cane Creek offers the uppers and lowers separate which makes life easier for the tapered head tubes.
> The top bearing is a 1-1/8" Zero Stack spec(ZS-3): http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/21111-205_CACUP0-3-Parts-63-Headsets/Cane-Creek-Upper-Headset-Assembly.htm
> ...


I'm not using the Reba from Bikesdirect. I'm using a White Brothers Magic80. If anyone knows if it can be converted to 100mm on the cheap, let me know:thumbsup:

I think I'm going to go with this headset combination to slacken it out a bit: http://www.canecreek.com/component-...XcII&topSize=1-1-8-ZS&topProduct=tapered-ZS-3

It sucks that I'll have to buy another bottom for the new fork when I get it:madman:


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

DFYFZX said:


> I'm riding a L Motobecane Fly Ti right now and have felt since day one that it's slightly too big and too racy. I'm a simple trail rider that goes out for fun. I wasn't planning on a new frame anytime soon but I messaged Mr. cSquared about the price of a demo frame and it was too good to pass up I should be able to sell my Ti frame and Masterpiece post to fund the YS quite easily
> 
> Right now my Fly should be around a 71 degree head angle and the YS will be 70 with the same fork. When the budget allows, I plan to upgrade to a Fox/RockShox/White Brothers fork with 100mm travel, tapered steerer and thru axle. For now, the Magic80 will have to do...


since you beat me to the med frame message me what size and how much you are looking for for the fly ti.

i would call white brothers and see what they can do.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

PM sent


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

DFYFZX said:


> I'm not using the Reba from Bikesdirect. I'm using a White Brothers Magic80. If anyone knows if it can be converted to 100mm on the cheap, let me know:thumbsup:


Oops. Sorry. For some reason I read "Reba" in my mind. Too little sleep.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Anybody running the new 2x10 stuff on the Yelli? I'm wondering about chainring clearance. I've seen the youtube video demonstrating the space on 3x10, but I'm wondering if a 39t, 40t, or 42t chainring on a 2x10 crank would clear as cleanly.


----------



## Ike Turner (Dec 20, 2006)

I've said it before. this is the best suspension bike they make


----------



## Ike Turner (Dec 20, 2006)

I've said it before. this is the best full suspension bike they make


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Thanks Ike, go shave your belly. 
I worked for White Brothers in the early Canfield days, they can change your travel up to a 100, maybe even a 120. Not sure how much there forks have changes in the last 5 years but that use to be a normal service they offered. Call and ask for Eric.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

*XX Cranks*

Here is a picture of the model clearance.


----------



## capslayer (Nov 19, 2006)

*Yelli short term review review*

http://olydirt.blogspot.com/2010/12/canfield-brothers-yelli-screamy-short.html


----------



## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

capslayer said:


> http://olydirt.blogspot.com/2010/12/canfield-brothers-yelli-screamy-short.html


That's a pretty spot on review. :thumbsup:


----------



## pureslop (Jul 28, 2008)

+1

I am starting to appreciate the stiffness of Aluminum on mine also. So responsive and precise in the slow, tech stuff. Everything's a trade off, but for now I'm no longer thinking that steel would be a upgrade.

This thing is even fun in the skate park, even though its "wrong". I did get a size S though which helps.


----------



## Ike Turner (Dec 20, 2006)

Thanks for the advice. I prefer full Brazilian for hair removal. Talk about Yelli Screamy. Have we met?


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Not wanting to let this thread just die, I have to announce that I just did the dirty deed and ordered a L black Yelli. I have mothballed the dream of owning a Lenz Milk Money. So when the CFO sees the bill, I want you all to back me up when I tell her I didn't spend $650 so much as I SAVED $1500. We all on board with this?


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

buddhak said:


> Not wanting to let this thread just die, I have to announce that I just did the dirty deed and ordered a L black Yelli. I have mothballed the dream of owning a Lenz Milk Money. So when the CFO sees the bill, I want you all to back me up when I tell her I didn't spend $650 so much as I SAVED $1500. We all on board with this?


I'd be glad to help you out.
I specialize in Risk Management and Financial/ Wealth Management.
Your plan and math are well thought out.

I just ordered a gold Yelli to compliment my Lenz Lev 4.
According to hours of calculations....I couldn't afford not to.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

the mayor said:


> According to hours of calculations....I couldn't afford not to.


:lol: Same logic I used when I ordered the XL silver demo. Should be here next week :thumbsup:


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> :lol: Same logic I used when I ordered the XL silver demo. Should be here next week :thumbsup:


It's all about the numbers.
If more people would stop thinking " I can't afford to."
and start thinking "Can I afford not to?"
Their lives...and the economy... would be better:thumbsup: 
Thank you for making the world a little bit better.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

I've spent ten years telling my wife I'd be buying a really nice car for my midlife crisis. I cashed those chips in on my Yelli in a similar way "Honey, this costs _way_ less than the car I was planning on getting!" Her response: :skep:

Congrats on the frame :thumbsup: Mine's slowly coming together as I have time. I'm hoping to go through the fork this weekend and then it'll be just about done.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

THe mayor has it right. You only get one spin around the block. It's important to live a little before the reaper catches up. I am always happy to do my part for this great country and its hard working native sons (insert mental pic of a Canfield touching his nipple at EuroBike here). Besides, this is a wee present to myself for passing a difficult exam.

The parts will have to trickle in slowly, but I am envisioning SS with tensioner at first, then eventually a 1x6 gearie to complement my beloved Karate Monkey (which may end up a fixie, we'll see).

I've never been so happy in my whole life...


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Hey, I just got offered a good deal on a Yelli, but I promised my wife I wouldn't put any of my winter build on the credit card. Couldn't pull the trigger. Anybody got any advice for that? I had to make a solemn promise too...because I can't be trusted. I try not to complain. In the grand scheme, putting up with me is much tougher. Here's what I've already bought for my build: Reba tapered team 120 maxled out, Hope 2's and stans Flows, Race Face Next LP 94/58 with carbon inserts. Sweet mid-life crisis action right there.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Hit up Chris for a demo frame when you have the cash in hand? Or, you could always get a new credit card in your name only that she doesn't know about. hmmm... Might not want to do that


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I just bought a fork for mine! Hopefully I'll have pics up in a week or two


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

buddhak said:


> THe mayor has it right. You only get one spin around the block. . Besides, this is a wee present to myself for passing a difficult exam.


I'm always right....it's a curse that was put on me.
Congrats on the Exam...what ever it was. When it comes to self improvement..."Can you afford not to?" is a rule...not a suggestion.

As far as building the bike....if it doesn't put you in over your head in debt...can you afford to have it sitting there not being used?


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

DFYFZX said:


> Hit up Chris for a demo frame when you have the cash in hand? Or, you could always get a new credit card in your name only that she doesn't know about. hmmm... Might not want to do that


Yeah, I just missed out on the last round of demo frames, so I took the money and bought a wheelset. I will have the frame money in March/April. Shooting for May for the complete build.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Hey, I just got offered a good deal on a Yelli, but I promised my wife I wouldn't put any of my winter build on the credit card. Couldn't pull the trigger. Anybody got any advice for that? I had to make a solemn promise too...because I can't be trusted. I try not to complain. In the grand scheme, putting up with me is much tougher. Here's what I've already bought for my build: Reba tapered team 120 maxled out, Hope 2's and stans Flows, Race Face Next LP 94/58 with carbon inserts. Sweet mid-life crisis action right there.


So...
You have a complete bike...minus the frame...sitting in a pile.
Are you collecting interest on those parts sitting there unused?
If the answer is yes...leave it there and reap your rewards.

But...
If you had a frame...would you be able to ride it now?
If the answer is yes....Can you afford not to?


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Hey, I just got offered a good deal on a Yelli, but I promised my wife I wouldn't put any of my winter build on the credit card. Couldn't pull the trigger. Anybody got any advice for that?


PM me the details 
Maybe you can "lease" it to somebody for a few months!


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

FM said:


> PM me the details
> Maybe you can "lease" it to somebody for a few months!


FM, you can ride mine for a few months....I've been so busy at work I don't get much time on mine. It is a medium.


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

geolover said:


> FM, you can ride mine for a few months....I've been so busy at work I don't get much time on mine. It is a medium.


:yesnod: :cornut: :ihih:

Very cool- I'll PM ya. I'll make it worth your while


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

is anyone riding theirs rigid?


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

the mayor said:


> I'm always right....it's a curse that was put on me.
> Congrats on the Exam...what ever it was. When it comes to self improvement..."Can you afford not to?" is a rule...not a suggestion.
> 
> As far as building the bike....if it doesn't put you in over your head in debt...can you afford to have it sitting there not being used?


I guess that's why they call you the Mayor? You are like the Laser Cannon of Truth. In any case, between school loans, home loans, and liberal application of your rule over the years, I won't be debt free until 2040 or so. Honestly, I just can't wait that long to get the Yelli Screamy built and ready to terrorize forest creatures.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

buddhak said:


> I guess that's why they call you the Mayor? You are like the Laser Cannon of Truth. In any case, between school loans, home loans, and liberal application of your rule over the years, I won't be debt free until 2040 or so. Honestly, I just can't wait that long to get the Yelli Screamy built and ready to terrorize forest creatures.


Mehhh. That's only 30 years. That will go by like...well...30 years...but the last 5 will fly by. Trust me on that.
When I was a kid working in a motorcycle shop.....there was a poster on the wall.
It was an old man sitting on a trick BSA racer. It read:
"Work hard and save your money and when you are old, you'll be able to buy things only the young can enjoy"
I still have that poster on my wall.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

mellowme17 said:


> is anyone riding theirs rigid?


I expect to be quite rigid when it comes time to ride mine.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> So...
> You have a complete bike...minus the frame...sitting in a pile.
> Are you collecting interest on those parts sitting there unused?
> If the answer is yes...leave it there and reap your rewards.
> ...


Parts in a pile aren't costing me interest at least.
If I had the frame, I'd still be waiting on drivetrain parts, headset, cockpit, and bb.
Have to go in stages. I'll ride my Rockhopper 29er during the wet season and save my new bike for May. Hope springs eternal and all that.


----------



## tl1 (Dec 21, 2003)

*Why don't you...*



bluestatevirgin said:


> Hey, I just got offered a good deal on a Yelli, but I promised my wife I wouldn't put any of my winter build on the credit card. *Couldn't pull the trigger.* Anybody got any advice for that?


...squeeze the trigger instead? :lol:


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

tl1 said:


> ...squeeze the trigger instead? :lol:


Ha! Hey if I pull _or_ squeeze the trigger on the bike against my promise to the wife....

I'll be both pulling and squeezing another trigger for who knows how long.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

buddhak said:


> I expect to be quite rigid when it comes time to ride mine.


what length fork are you running?


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Parts in a pile aren't costing me interest at least.
> If I had the frame, I'd still be waiting on drivetrain parts, headset, cockpit, and bb.
> Have to go in stages. I'll ride my Rockhopper 29er during the wet season and save my new bike for May. Hope springs eternal and all that.


That is good math.
You can afford not to.
Ride on.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Originally Posted by buddhak
I expect to be quite rigid when it comes time to ride mine.



mellowme17 said:


> what length fork are you running?


Ummm.......http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarcasm

Also Google "boner jokes"


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

This thread has deteriorated into dirty jokes. Means we need some fresh pics. Any new builds out there? Show us.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

the mayor said:


> Originally Posted by buddhak
> I expect to be quite rigid when it comes time to ride mine.
> 
> Ummm.......http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarcasm
> ...


burn!


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

mellowme17 said:


> burn!


Gooogle "boner burn".....there's an ointment for that now.
Also...listen to Frank Zappa's "Why does it hurt when I pee?". I prefer the live version which segues from "Joe's Garage".
I miss Frank.
Got a Ups tracker for my Yelli.....been clicking on it every 10 minutes....but that doesn't seen to be making it get here any faster. Why do they send it if it doesn't make it get here faster?


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

So...while I wait for my box o' Yelli to trudge it's way across the tundra...
A little box of do dads and what nots to finish the build showed up.
And with a mix of what's hanging around here:
A Fox F29 100 G2 Pushed
Cane Creek h/s
Xt frnt and rear derlrs and shifters
Easton EC90 0 setback post
Selle Italia SLR
Avid Juicy 7 with ti and alum bolts160/140
Going to have to experiment with cranks and rings ...I like 26/36...we'll see what fits.
Have to play with stems and bars
Assorted wheel/tire combos...probably have Nokian studs for a while

Hope it ends up fairly light


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> So...while I wait for my box o' Yelli to trudge it's way across the tundra...
> A little box of do dads and what nots to finish the build showed up.
> And with a mix of what's hanging around here:
> A Fox F29 100 G2 Pushed
> ...


Build pics as you go please!


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Build pics as you go please!


I have 2 hands.
one is for holding wrenches
one is for holding beer
Unless I can train another part of my body to take pics...you are SOL.
Hope you understand.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

the mayor said:


> I have 2 hands.
> one is for holding wrenches
> one is for holding beer
> Unless I can train another part of my body to take pics...you are SOL.
> Hope you understand.


LOL! :thumbsup:


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> I have 2 hands.
> one is for holding wrenches
> one is for holding beer
> Unless I can train another part of my body to take pics...you are SOL.
> Hope you understand.


Right. But the beer has to empty at some point. You'll need to break for another. I'll let you off the hook with a single finished pic though.


----------



## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

Just got my XL Yelli frame yesterday. What are all you fellers running for headsets? Specific brands and part numbers would be great! This is my first tapered headtube frame and thus far it's proving more difficult than I initially thought it would to find a suitable HS. I've searched Cane Creek, King, and others, but can't seem to get it nailed down. I really like the Acros (I think the AX-06 is the one), but the availability seems to be severely lacking here in the US. 

I'm a big guy @ 6'4" and typically have to run a lot of spacers on top, so a tall top stack height HS is preferrable, while the bottom doesn't matter as much as this thing should be plenty slack enough with a 120mm fork. BTW, I'll be running a 1 1/8 steerer, not tapered.

Many thanks!
Notch


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

Notch Johnson said:


> I'm a big guy @ 6'4" and typically have to run a lot of spacers on top, so a tall top stack height HS is preferrable,
> 
> Many thanks!
> Notch


I believe the top is zero stack 44mm ID standard.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Notch Johnson said:


> Just got my XL Yelli frame yesterday. What are all you fellers running for headsets? Specific brands and part numbers would be great! This is my first tapered headtube frame and thus far it's proving more difficult than I initially thought it would to find a suitable HS. I've searched Cane Creek, King, and others, but can't seem to get it nailed down. I really like the Acros (I think the AX-06 is the one), but the availability seems to be severely lacking here in the US.
> 
> I'm a big guy @ 6'4" and typically have to run a lot of spacers on top, so a tall top stack height HS is preferrable, while the bottom doesn't matter as much as this thing should be plenty slack enough with a 120mm fork. BTW, I'll be running a 1 1/8 steerer, not tapered.
> 
> ...


Read this thread......it has exactly what headset to buy....whether your running a taper steerer or the 1 1/8


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Notch Johnson said:


> Just got my XL Yelli frame yesterday. What are all you fellers running for headsets? Specific brands and part numbers would be great! This is my first tapered headtube frame and thus far it's proving more difficult than I initially thought it would to find a suitable HS. I've searched Cane Creek, King, and others, but can't seem to get it nailed down. I really like the Acros (I think the AX-06 is the one), but the availability seems to be severely lacking here in the US.
> 
> I'm a big guy @ 6'4" and typically have to run a lot of spacers on top, so a tall top stack height HS is preferrable, while the bottom doesn't matter as much as this thing should be plenty slack enough with a 120mm fork. BTW, I'll be running a 1 1/8 steerer, not tapered.
> 
> ...


Use the Cane Creek Headset-Fit-Finder.

The upper is 44mm insertion and the lower is 50mm.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Notch Johnson said:


> What are all you fellers running for headsets? Specific brands and part numbers would be great!


Last post page 6.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

This Cane Creek Angleset headset would be fun to play with on the Yelli Screamy.


----------



## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

Thanks for the info guys. I think I've got it sorted now.

@ car_nut: Not sure how I missed your post with the details, but somehow I did. Guess I need to brush up on my reading comprehension skills.

@OldHouseMan: Yeah, I thought the same thing about that angleset... hmmm.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

It's an 8 page thread. It's not too hard to miss something  I've missed more obvious things in 1/2 page threads


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Gettin' excited. Parts are starting to trickle in. Fork came last week, wheels coming today, frame tomorrow, headset, stem and tires hopefully by the end of the week.... :thumbsup:


----------



## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

is this frame gonna suck for riding uphill for three hours at a time? thinking about a new bike, doing some endurance events, want a fun bike. haven't had a 29er, been riding for 20 years, raced DH, last bike SC Heckler, and crap alu HT....live in MT Rockies. LONG ups, fun downs. I am wondering about the bar height being too high for good climbing position. But it is a HT, so climbing has to be damn good compared to the Heckler. skeptical about 29er, but this frame looks promising.


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

El Train said:


> is this frame gonna suck for riding uphill for three hours at a time? thinking about a new bike, doing some endurance events, want a fun bike. haven't had a 29er, been riding for 20 years, raced DH, last bike SC Heckler, and crap alu HT....live in MT Rockies. LONG ups, fun downs. I am wondering about the bar height being too high for good climbing position. But it is a HT, so climbing has to be damn good compared to the Heckler. skeptical about 29er, but this frame looks promising.


I think the frame climbs really well, in my opinion you should go for it. The head tube is fairly short so the bars are not too high. The super short chainstays give great traction on the rear tire letting you power through technical sections. Most importantly it is a blast on the down hill so it makes all your climbing efforts worth while.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

here's a review of the YS- 
http://www.29eronline.com/blog/canf...and-build-report/comment-page-1/#comment-1133

They address the climbing question in the comments-


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

cSquared said:


> here's a review of the YS-
> http://www.29eronline.com/blog/canf...and-build-report/comment-page-1/#comment-1133
> 
> They address the climbing question in the comments-


Yep, Pretty much jives with my first impressions.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

the more i look at this thread the less i want to wait for a nimble 9! custom is still sitting high on my list........agh the choices...


----------



## caoboto (Aug 10, 2006)

*Canfield Yelli Screamy*

It's still really cool to see 29eronline come up in the forum with out us spamming. Thanks!

As far as the Yelli Screamy climbing. Our trails are pretty much all pedaling. We have mostly short down hills until we can get to the mountains. Snow has been slowing us down.

The Canfield has no problems on anything we have put it in. Steep tight switch backs, no problem ,climbing no problem Slow speed tech Please!

This is the first bike that testers that ride 26ers as their personal bikes are saying that the handling is as fast as a 26er. You still have the advantages of big wheels but the bike pulls up and handles at will.

I sent an email to Chris Canfield and said I am scratching my head as to why more companies are not closer to this bike geometry wise.

The big plus to me is how playful it is and how balanced it is.

I think the down side is that sometimes you forget that you don't have rear suspension and have the rude awakening of going into chatter with reckless abandon and getting in trouble.

So while I cant say a ton as of now, since we have quite a bit more testing to go and getting feedback from other riders etc. The people that have ridden it love it.

As for me I will be watching closely to see if one day...maybe.. we will see the same geometry and attitude in a dual suspension bike. Please.


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

There seems to have been a review of the YS in Nov issue of German bike magazine.
http://www.bike-magazin.de/?p=3672
Anyone got a copy or seen it?


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Finally got mine together.

Hope/Flows/Ardents
Reba Team 120mm/tapered/maxle
LX cranks & x7 bits taken from my other bike along with Juicy 5's
Also sprung for a Reverb as an Xmas present to my knees while going up and my face while going down.

Now I just need to wait for the snow to melt. That seems to be taking a while at 10F


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Ugh. Living vicariously through this thread until UPS drops of my frame this week.
And seeing we got 2 feet of powder and it was -4 this morning....I have some build time.
And hoping for a little bit of rain and a big freeze to make the snowmobile trails into mtb luge material.

Car_nut.....nice build.


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

car_nut said:


> Now I just need to wait for the snow to melt. That seems to be taking a while at 10F


Nice! Well done.


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Looks good in the snow, I gotta get mine built up soon.


----------



## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

Car_nut. Great looking ride!!


----------



## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

*1x9*

1X9, swapping to 2X10 to give it a go. May go to 1X10 if the gearing works out.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I finally have the tracking #s for my frame and fork! I ordered a new set of wheels too but they won't be here until around Feb. 1st I'll just use my XC wheels until the Semis show up. I'll be sure to post pics sometime next week when I get her all built up


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Jeez. I wonder why no silver or gold frames on here. I figured gold would be the hot color.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Mine's silver. Hold yer horses!


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm really hoping for a quick spring so I can actually use it.

m-dub: Looking good!

the-mayor: I feel your pain. Mine sat in the box for a month between us having our second child and holiday activities.


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Jeez. I wonder why no silver or gold frames on here. I figured gold would be the hot color.


I have a gold that is in UPS' hands....
just because I didn't see many golds posted


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Jeez. I wonder why no silver or gold frames on here. I figured gold would be the hot color.


Uhhhh, ahem...**cough**


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

I didn't forget you geolover, but yours is one of maybe two pictured here. Can't say that I've even seen a gold.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Just got mine Friday...a sight for sore eyes after a long day at work......Aaaaaaaand it's sitting in a box until Springtime.


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

bluestatevirgin said:


> I didn't forget you geolover, but yours is one of maybe two pictured here. Can't say that I've even seen a gold.


Actually, I don't think mine looks all that great. I'm a big fan of how some of the black frames are turning out. I originally just threw this bike together from parts I had lying around...trying to spend as little as possible because I had no idea if I liked 29ers or not.

Well, I likey. I likey alot. I'll be throwing some money at it soon to help bling it out and improve some performance.


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Well, I guess I'll have to post the first "blinged" out silver one


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

geolover said:


> Actually, I don't think mine looks all that great.


Don't let your bike hear you say that :nono: I think yours looks great. I spent many days lusting over yours until I ordered mine. You just need to take it outside for some better pictures. That moonshine still in the background clashes


----------



## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

geolover said:


> Actually, I don't think mine looks all that great. I'm a big fan of how some of the black frames are turning out. I originally just threw this bike together from parts I had lying around...trying to spend as little as possible because I had no idea if I liked 29ers or not.
> 
> Well, I likey. I likey alot. I'll be throwing some money at it soon to help bling it out and improve some performance.


I actually like the silver and was having a hard time deciding last week but ended up ordering the ano black and it is scheduled to be here Wed.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Jeez. I wonder why no silver or gold frames on here. I figured gold would be the hot color.


Stay tuned. Waiting for the upper headset :thumbsup:


----------



## mtbiker1973 (Dec 16, 2010)

*Yellin at some gold*



bluestatevirgin said:


> Jeez. I wonder why no silver or gold frames on here. I figured gold would be the hot color.


Ordered a gold one on Friday. Chris could not have been cooler to deal with and big ups to Canfield Bros for adding in a second derailleur hanger on all of their frames. I went to order one out of habit and Chris let me in on their standard practice. Let the build begin.... pictures will hopefully follow sooner than later.:thumbsup:


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Jeffw-13,

Your new avatar kicks the snot out of your old one. In fact, this new avatar occupies the opposite end of the Girlyman-ToughGuy continuum. No offense. Just an observation.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Jeffw-13,
> 
> Your new avatar kicks the snot out of your old one. In fact, this new avatar occupies the opposite end of the Girlyman-ToughGuy continuum. No offense. Just an observation.


:lol: No offense taken. Love the Canfield headbadge + someone else had the same one I was using before. Always confused the **** outa me when I saw their posts


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Hmmmm....the UPS Tracker says there's one gold Yelli on my porch.
Butt load of clients lined up today....but canceling appointments for tomorrow because of a pending storm.....maybe some snuggle time tomorrow


----------



## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

What's your address? I'll pick it up for you and make sure the contents are okay:thumbsup:

Just got off the phone with Canfield and pulled the trigger - should be here by Wednesday!


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Any color requests for next run-
Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.

What we are planning is-
Orange and Wasabi green- and of course more black.

But I want a deep bright Grape ano too-


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

cSquared said:


> Sales are kickin-


Awesome. Glad to hear it :thumbsup:



cSquared said:


> But I want a deep bright Grape ano too-


SON OF A [email protected]$%& :madman: I would have loved to get that.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


I would take orange or green. How about raw ?

I'll try to wait for you but if I see a used small for sale I might have to jump on it. :thumbsup:


----------



## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


NOW you tell me that you're doing orange? Grrrr. Ah well, I'll just have to buy some orange stickers. Do you have orange stickers?


----------



## mtbiker1973 (Dec 16, 2010)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


I love the root beer ano on the SC Butchers... Definitely bad ass.. You should do a complete soda theme with Grape, Orange and Root Beer. Stay away from Birch Beer since sometimes it is clear, sometimes it is red....too confusing.:skep:


----------



## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Raw with a matte clearcoat Raw bikes are [email protected]$$...


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Orange sounds good to me!

I would be good to get some feedback comparing YS to Nimble 9. I know N9 is a pound heavier and even shorter cs but how does the ride compare??


----------



## schizz (Nov 28, 2010)

Large Wasabi please, although the orange may be faster. Just hoping to get one this go around.


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


I'm all over that Grape thang! :thumbsup:

Great idea, @mtnbiker1973


mtnbiker1973 said:


> You should do a complete soda theme with Grape, Orange and Root Beer.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


Since you are talking food colors...How about Blood Orange?

And raw...


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

Clink said:


> Orange sounds good to me!
> 
> I would be good to get some feedback comparing YS to Nimble 9. I know N9 is a pound heavier and even shorter cs but how does the ride compare??


I am curious about this as well i have been wainting a nimble 9 since i heard about it. &#8230; also what are the weights for the yelli screamy builds?


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

mellowme17 said:


> I am curious about this as well i have been wainting a nimble 9 since i heard about it. &#8230; also what are the weights for the yelli screamy builds?


Mine came out to 28 pounds (2 pounds lighter than my 26er HT it replaced). Pretty budget build w/ Bonty Rhythm Elites, x9, and a tanker of a fork (Marz 44 TST2).


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

mellowme17 said:


> . &#8230; also what are the weights for the yelli screamy builds?


Sorry, I don't own a scale.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

yeah i know that tst2 fork is heavy...i was just wondering about weight i am coming off of a d660 with white brothers fork and single speed and thats at 24lbs. just trying to get a idea if i go in this direction.


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

I got two rides in on a Yelli over the weekend (more to come once I have pics etc). Things I noticed right away compared to my 26'er steel hardtail with similar build & weight:
The frame is pretty compliant for aluminum, and the big wheels take the edge off the small stuff anyways. The ride was smoother overall than my steel 26'er.
The Yelli climbs WAY better than my steel 26'er. Mainly because the rear wheel never seems to lose traction, so you can turn bigger gears out of the saddle where a 26'er would spin out. Generally feels more efficient and faster without being harsher riding. 
WB bosses on the seat tube prevented me from being able to drop a 410 thomsen post more than 3-1/2" from climbing height. Still not ideal with a shorter post. This bike begs for a reverb (which will not fit the smaller seat tubes on steel frames). Ditch the seat tube WB bosses please Canfield!
Otherwise I LOVED the bike. Will definitely be my go-to bike for AM/XC riding this season!


----------



## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

cSquared said:


> Any color requests for next run-
> Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.
> 
> What we are planning is-
> ...


crap!!!!!!! purple, orange.............. I'm gonna have to try and sell my black one.:nono:


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

wyatt79m said:


> crap!!!!!!! purple, orange.............. I'm gonna have to try and sell my black one.:nono:


don't think that will be a problem....what size is it??


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

mellowme17 said:


> yeah i know that tst2 fork is heavy...i was just wondering about weight i am coming off of a d660 with white brothers fork and single speed and thats at 24lbs. just trying to get a idea if i go in this direction.


The medium frame is 4.5 lbs....so figure out your parts weight.


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

I plan on buying a medium later this week. I was wondering if someone could answer a few questions. I've only been biking a few years, and still have lots to learn.

I'm currently on this bike http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/windsor_cliff29team.htm and plan on using its components. Everything is the same as listed except the following:

I replaced my front wheel with a stans flow rim and dt 240s hub 
I replaced the front rotor with a 185mm.
Tires were replaced with Rampage 2.35
I removed the largest sprocket and installed a bbg bashguard.

Here are the things i'm not sure about.

My current front derailleur won't work, so I'm thinking i'd like to try a 1x9 setup. Is there anything i'd need for this? I was thinking of adding another bbg bashguard in place of the smaller ring, but not sure if there's enough clearance. Seems like I might need something to keep the chain from falling off to the inside.

My fork doesn't have a tapered tube. What headset do I need to make this work?

I've read that some people needed spacers for their cranks to fit. Will any be required for the crank listed in the link?

Looks like I'll need a different seat post and clamp. Open to suggestions for this.

I appreciate any help I can get with this. Ready to order the frame, but want to have all the parts figured out first.

Thanks


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

I was on a Cliff Pro last year and used the drivetrain and brakes for mine.


coke said:


> My current front derailleur won't work, so I'm thinking i'd like to try a 1x9 setup. Is there anything i'd need for this? I was thinking of adding another bbg bashguard in place of the smaller ring, but not sure if there's enough clearance. Seems like I might need something to keep the chain from falling off to the inside.


There's no reasonable way you'll fit an inner bash guard on this frame. If you look back through this thread you'll see some recommendations from Canfield. I'd also recommend you get a single speed chain ring. Unless you have your heart set on 1x9, picking up a direct mount derailleur was the cheapest way out: $40.



coke said:


> My fork doesn't have a tapered tube. What headset do I need to make this work?


Last post page 6


coke said:


> I've read that some people needed spacers for their cranks to fit. Will any be required for the crank listed in the link?


I can't say for sure as I'm not familiar with that crank. The Cliff has a 68mm BB shell and the Yelli has a 73. Most BB's come with spacers which are installed with the 68mm shell. You'll typically use either one or none in a 73mm, check the instructions for your crank. The only catch is that the chainstay is designed to be right up against a 32 tooth ring with a ~50mm chainline. If that crank has a different chainline or you're using a 34t ring you might need to space it over.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

> The only catch is that the chainstay is designed to be right up against a 32 tooth ring with a ~50mm chainline. If that crank has a different chainline or you're using a 34t ring you might need to space it over.


You got me worried/confused now. Am I ok running xt cranks with ss 32t ring as 1x9? I know clearance is tight but will it be a problem (ride a lot in mud!)?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Clink said:


> You got me worried/confused now. Am I ok running xt cranks with ss 32t ring as 1x9? I know clearance is tight but will it be a problem (ride a lot in mud!)?


 Which XT's? There's a youtube video from Canfield showing the installation and explaining the reasoning behind it. The chainstay is meant to be close to the rings to prevent chain suck. It was designed around the current generation of outboard bearing BB's which run a ~50mm chainline. If you're running Hollowtech cranks and you're asking if the taller teeth on a single speed ring will clear, I'd say no problem.

EDIT: Here's the video...


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

> Which XT's? There's a youtube video from Canfield showing the installation and explaining the reasoning behind it. The chainstay is meant to be close to the rings to prevent chain suck. It was designed around the current generation of outboard bearing BB's which run a ~50mm chainline. If you're running Hollowtech cranks and you're asking if the taller teeth on a single speed ring will clear, I'd say no problem.


Yep Hollowtech II's


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Thanks for the help car nut


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:

XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube

Thoughts?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

What fork are you running?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

car_nut said:


> What fork are you running?


I was gonna ask the same thing :lol: 
120mm fox talas with the external cup feels good to me, coming from a 26'er with a 68.5 HA.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

alexkraemer said:


> Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:
> 
> XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
> XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube
> ...


I'm at 140mm with an external cup and it just feels right. I prefer slacker HA's though...YMMV.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

geolover said:


> I'm at 140mm with an external cup and it just feels right. I prefer slacker HA's though...YMMV.


Wow. I thought mine looked like a chopper. Yours must roll over 20" logs without effort.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

car_nut said:


> What fork are you running?


120mm Manitou Minute.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

The reason I ask is that there is a $20 difference between the two headsets and I'm not that picky about HAs. Anything structurally different (longevity, stiffness, etc.) that would make me want to choose the traditional over the flush?


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

I found a cheap source for the upper assembly:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HS276A02-Orbit+Zs+1+18+Headset+Oe.aspx


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

flymybike said:


> If you need a guide these are a couple great ones. Just ones that come to mind in 30 sec or less.


From a post on page 6, these are both light and work great for a 1x9.

About the chainline, let me explain more. There is two ways to prevent chainsuck. Make the space between the frame and rings more than 5mm or less than 5mm (the width of a chain). If it's less the chain can't get stuck between but the important thing is it gives more room for the tire and a thick yoke. If you leave enough room for the chain to easily fall through and come back out, the yoke is closer to the tire making a 2.2 tire tight (not acceptable). So we made it tight, this allows you to run all new mtb cranksets and have room for big tires. Some require 1 spacer on the driveside if your running larger than stock ring sizes but 95% work per manufactures mounting guidelines.


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

Just ordered the frame today to replace my aging KM.

I will be running a straight steerer and this headset issue is driving me bonkers. Where are you guys buying the upper and lower HS parts from? I know what I need from the CC website (I want the 40 series parts), but can't find a source.

Sorry if the answer ridiculously obvious, but I'm not finding it.

-JLantz


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Your LBS should be able to order it for you. I know BTI has a few in stock. I see in-stock (only angle sets) is 2 for a 1 1/8 and 1 for a tapered steerer. FYI- we are 44.0/49.6mm dimensions.

I want to try this one, •ZS44-ZS49/30 fits: traditional tapered headtube with an 1-1/8" straight steerer, it's a kit with 3 angles to choice from.

Edit: this fits too from BTI, Gravity SXE Tapered Reducer Headset
This one:
http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store.cfm?do=DetailProduct&productid=99613

This CB one might be right too, just not enough specs on there site.
http://www.crankbrothers.com/directsets_iodine_taper.php
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=37946&category=502

This is what your looking for (I think, please guy's more info), call first to make sure!!!!!!
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...110-1.5"-mixed-tapered-headset-6317.29.1.html


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

flymybike said:


> Your LBS should be able to order it for you. I know BTI has a few in stock. I see in-stock (only angle sets) is 2 for a 1 1/8 and 1 for a tapered steerer. FYI- we are 44.0/49.6mm dimensions.
> 
> I want to try this one, •ZS44-ZS49/30 fits: traditional tapered headtube with an 1-1/8" straight steerer, it's a kit with 3 angles to choice from.
> 
> ...


:thumbsup:


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

JLantz said:


> Just ordered the frame today to replace my aging KM.
> 
> I will be running a straight steerer and this headset issue is driving me bonkers. Where are you guys buying the upper and lower HS parts from? I know what I need from the CC website (I want the 40 series parts), but can't find a source.
> 
> ...


Jlantz - hang in there, the headset world is a freakin mess these days. This guide at Cane Creek simplified things nicely and explained things for me:
http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Headset_Instructions/Other/Headset_Identification_and_SpecificationGuide.pdf


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

The Adrenaline Bikes link is the cheapest price that I've seen yet:
http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store.cfm?do=DetailProduct&productid=99613
for those that are looking for the cheapest option...


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:
> 
> XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
> XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube
> ...


I have the same question. If you are going to use a non-tapered 1 1/8 steer tube fork on the YS, could you use the XXc II flush lower? Saves weight and dough. Fits traditional 1.5" HT (49.5mm is what I could find - cane creek's website is way dysfunctional). Any downsides besides potential downtube/adjuster knob ugliness?

Alexkraemer, please keep us updated on how your Minute + YS marriage turns out. I m thinking along those lines also.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

buddhak said:


> I have the same question. If you are going to use a non-tapered 1 1/8 steer tube fork on the YS, could you use the XXc II flush lower?


Yes, and you are correct, It is lighter due to less cup material and a smaller bearing. Lower stack height too.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Any downsides besides potential downtube/adjuster knob ugliness?
> 
> Alexkraemer, please keep us updated on how your Minute + YS marriage turns out. I m thinking along those lines also.


Buddhak - I hadn't thought about that. Looking at the fork, there's a 1/2 drop from the crown to the top of the knob, which coupled with the gusseted portion of the downtube, should clear without issues. I'll have all the parts by early next week so I'll post back then.


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

FM said:


> WB bosses on the seat tube prevented me from being able to drop a 410 thomsen post more than 3-1/2" from climbing height. Still not ideal with a shorter post. This bike begs for a reverb (which will not fit the smaller seat tubes on steel frames). Ditch the seat tube WB bosses please Canfield!


Hey FM, if you back the ST WB bolts out, can your seatpost be dropped passed the bosses? If so, just get some precisely shorter bolts.

I was stoked to see 3(!) sets of bosses on the frame, personally, and only hoped the threaded inserts didn't protrude into the ID of the ST.


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

Thanks, Dudes.

Got it figured out and bought the CC HS uppers and lowers, among other parts needed, from Universal Cycles and ChainReaction.

Mine is a tight-budget build: older 2x9 drivetrain, BB7's, wheels, and a couple of cockpit parts transfered from my KM. I went with the '10 Manitou Drake 120mm fork and am looking forward to finally having 31.8mm, wide bars.

I can't wait for this ride to come together!


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

JLantz said:


> Hey FM, if you back the ST WB bolts out, can your seatpost be dropped passed the bosses? If so, just get some precisely shorter bolts.


Yep, tried that out on the trail, no dice.

The upper WB boss is only 8" down from the top of the seat tube on the medium frame. Figure 3" minimum seatpost insertion at full climbing height, that leaves only 5" drop before hitting the WB boss- and that's with the seatpost cut to min. length. There are times I would prefer more 

I wonder if the seat tube interior could be reamed/honed to remove the obstructions? :idea:

Reverb + seatpost QR will be my "ghetto fix" :winker:


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

*Another black ano just arrived in SoCal.*

Right on schedule my new Med. Black Ano YS arrived today, Thanks again to Chris and his great c.s. let the fun begin.


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

FM said:


> I wonder if the seat tube interior could be reamed/honed to remove the obstructions? :idea:
> 
> Reverb + seatpost QR will be my "ghetto fix" :winker:


Damn! That means a ream of the ST by the LBS (add a $hop rate to the frame if you plan to slam your post), or the cheap fix of drilling out the inserts, which totally sucks for guys that ride with a ST water bottle mounted.

A small detail, but a very annoying one. In the PNW, we want the ability to completely drop the saddle down to the TT.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

JLantz said:


> Damn! That means a ream of the ST by the LBS (add a $hop rate to the frame if you plan to slam your post), or the cheap fix of drilling out the inserts, which totally sucks for guys that ride with a ST water bottle mounted.
> 
> A small detail, but a very annoying one. In the PNW, we want the ability to completely drop the saddle down to the TT.


Find an old Titec Scoper seatpost.:thumbsup:


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Just received mine - 4.5 lbs on the dot! Now if those pesky headset parts would arrive....


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Just waiting on my lower headset, new crankset and wheels I'll post picks all built up with my old wheels if needs be. Their estimated arrival is Feb 1st:/


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Got my upper headset today. I think Im ready to build!


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

jeffw-13 said:


> Got my upper headset today. I think Im ready to build!


Lucky!

Anybody else have weird issues with BBs and spacer? I've got Truvativ SS cranks so when I installed the BB I didn't use any washers, but there was a 2.5mm gap between the drive side and BB. Added a BB spacer and now everything works perfectly - weirdest thing.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

My NOIRs were tight with no spacers but I want to run a chainguide so I decided to buy a set of SLX cranks. Anybody wanna a nice set of NOIR SS cranks and GXP BB??? lol I need my lower headset and then I could at least ride the thing a time or two before the new wheels/cranks show up. The wait is KILLING me!


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

DFYFZX said:


> Anybody wanna a nice set of NOIR SS cranks and GXP BB???


I might be interested- hey question about the Noir's, are the tabs that the chainrings bolt to aluminum or carbon?


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Aluminum. The non-drive crankarm bolt finally stripped out(I've had them for 2 years and removed them lots of times) and I've ordered a new one. If you're serious about wanting them, PM me and we'll figure something out


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

I've watched the BB youtube video, but it didn't get as technical as I had hoped.

The YS has a 73mm BB, but the drive side shell has been relieved, I believe, in order to accept a BB mounted chainguide, and therefore, requires spacers for a non-chainguide setup. Is this correct?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

JLantz said:


> I've watched the BB youtube video, but it didn't get as technical as I had hoped.
> 
> The YS has a 73mm BB, but the drive side shell has been relieved, I believe, in order to accept a BB mounted chainguide, and therefore, requires spacers for a non-chainguide setup. Is this correct?


I don't believe so. The allowance for a chainguide is the same as an E-type derailleur. If your BB is designed to accept an E-type, it will call for using a spacer when one isn't used. If your crank isn't designed to allow an E-type, then you can't use a guide with the Yelli.

The Shimano BB for example calls for one spacer on the drive side if used in a 73mm shell with no guide/E-type. This is how I installed my LX cranks and everything went together as it should.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

car_nut said:


> I don't believe so. The allowance for a chainguide is the same as an E-type derailleur. If your BB is designed to accept an E-type, it will call for using a spacer when one isn't used. If your crank isn't designed to allow an E-type, then you can't use a guide with the Yelli.
> 
> The Shimano BB for example calls for one spacer on the drive side if used in a 73mm shell with no guide/E-type. This is how I installed my LX cranks and everything went together as it should.


If I put the spacer on the non-drive side, the chainring didn't clear, so I thinking about replacing the 2.5mm spacer with Shimano's 1.8mm and 0.7mm BB spacers in order to bring the chainring a little big closer.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

What style BB are you using? I looked up the Truvativ install instructions and was rather confused. Nearest I could tell, the GXP BB doesn't allow for an E-type/guide. They call for 2 spacers with a 68mm shell and none for a 73mm shell.

When I was assembling mine I measured the bottom shell to be 72.96mm, so standard installation configs should get you what you need.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

alexkraemer said:


> I thinking about replacing the 2.5mm spacer with Shimano's 1.8mm and 0.7mm BB spacers in order to bring the chainring a little big closer.


Why?

Think you'll notice the 0.7mm difference? Thats like , what, less than 1/32".


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

perttime said:


> Why?
> 
> Think you'll notice the 0.7mm difference? Thats like , what, less than 1/32".


Just to bring the chainring closer to the frame. Probably not necessary, but I want to do some more tinkering with BB spacers to figure out why the crank doesn't install properly without an extra BB spacer.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

I think Truvative has a different chain line than the Shimano 50 it was designed around. Wasn't this talked about a few pages back?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

The Truvativ has a ~51mm chainline vs the Shimano 50mm. I'm more curious about why he needs spacers in the BB. The Truvativ docs are pretty generic, but what I found calls for no spacers in a 73mm shell.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

*For the obsessive compulsive...*

So I'm not usually one to care about such things as scratches on a mountain bike. But, with winter boredom in full swing, I thought I'd look into some helicopter tape. Unfortunately I only found two options for matching an anodized frame. One was the actual 3m matte helicopter tape, which I could only find in quantities costing more than the frame itself. The other was from this seller in the UK: http://cgi.ebay.com/MATTE-Helicopter-Bike-Frame-Protection-Tape-2mx50mm-/320635790992?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4aa761e690#ht_3091wt_1139

I ordered a roll and cut some up to cover cable rub spots. I applied it using soapy water(the instructions call for dry) and it just about disappears. I can't speak for longevity yet and this stuff is certainly not actual helicopter tape. It is a bit thinner and I would guess not as resilient. But, it was cheap and I think it will serve its purpose.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Headset arrives today! LBS better have my seatpost shim...
And I just called - it won't be here until Monday/Tuesday!. I'll just have to ride it trials style until then...


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## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

*Ouch!*



alexkraemer said:


> I'll just have to ride it trials style until then...


Haha! "Watch out fer yer cornhole buddy." ~ Diedrich Bader - Office Space

I know the feeling, I have a RS Reverb post on backorder... it's holding up the show. With any luck I'll be putting the rubber to the dirt in about 2 weeks.


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## Enel (Mar 23, 2004)

Ten pages.

452 posts.

~29,500 views.

I count six complete bikes.

It must be winter


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I think we need an official Canfield Forum


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

DFYFZX said:


> I think we need an official Canfield Forum


For all 6...I got one...so make that 7 bikes?


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Just placed an order for a medium black.

Question:

Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Hmmmm....maybe there is a need for a Canfield B/B Forum


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Enel said:


> Ten pages.
> 
> 452 posts.
> 
> ...


 
It's been snowing every third day here and I need a diversion. I can't drink at work, so thread is my only option


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Enel said:


> Ten pages.
> 
> 452 posts.
> 
> ...


haha, indeed.



coke said:


> Question:
> 
> Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.


Coke - I know this sounds crazy and contradicts everything I've read about the GXP stuff, but running GXP with a 2.5mm spacer (or any other BB mounted gadget) seems to work fine. When you get your frame install the crank and see if it works with a washer. If so, you're good to go. I must have a weird set of cranks.


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## yellowducman (Apr 18, 2010)

My frame showed up on Wednesday. Yea.


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

MRP just told me that the new D-mount 1x9 guide is coming out soon.
Can't wait- got one on order for my new Large-

New Marz- Micro Ti 120 fork-
Got Chris kings with Edge hoops-
29" flat Edge Bar-(thanks Mitch Ropelato)
Got the new 12-36t 9 speed cassette from shimano to run in the back.
Can't wait.

I'll post up some picks when it's done-
C2


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

cSquared said:


> Got the new 12-36t 9 speed cassette from shimano to run in the back.


I just ordered one.

For about the past month, I've only been using my middle ring to see how 1x9 would work for me. It was fine for everything but a couple hills. I'm thinking with 12-36, I can handle just about anything.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

coke said:


> Just placed an order for a medium black.
> 
> Question:
> 
> Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.


It is possible you may get it to work, but if it doesn't immediately break the non-drive side bearing it'll wear out prematurely...speaking from my own personal experiences.


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

DFYFZX said:


> I think we need an official Canfield Forum


Ya one with just pictures and info and not people UPS status.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

cSquared said:


> MRP just told me that the new D-mount 1x9 guide is coming out soon.


This thing will be a godsend to all the Truvativ users! Due to the odd seattube angle, the seattube mount type won't work and the Truvativ BB cups are a no go with BB style guides:madman: The only option out there that will work, that I'm aware of, is the Paul's chainguide but it's too pricey and doesn't fit the personality of the bike.

Are there pics on the web anywhere of the MRP D-mount guide?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

DFYFZX said:


> I think we need an official Canfield Forum


I think the Custom DH/FR/Urban forum is the default Canfield forum 

http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=112


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

DFYFZX said:


> This thing will be a godsend to all the Truvativ users! Due to the odd seattube angle, the seattube mount type won't work and the Truvativ BB cups are a no go with BB style guides:madman: The only option out there that will work, that I'm aware of, is the Paul's chainguide but it's too pricey and doesn't fit the personality of the bike.
> 
> Are there pics on the web anywhere of the MRP D-mount guide?


Jenson has them in stock: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CG281B00-Mrp+1X+Guide.aspx

Click on seat tube mount.

edit: Oops! you said D mount.....sorry!


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

coke said:


> Just placed an order for a medium black.
> 
> Question:
> 
> Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.


Technically it wont work, you need a shimano/raceface BB/Crank to run the MRP. If you want to get creative, use a BB facing tool to remove 2.5mm of BB shell on the drive side. That should allow you to use the MRP with the GXP BB. Before you go cutting your frame I would take a couple measurements to ensure there are no other issues with the MRP fitting.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Thanks for the help.

I went ahead and ordered the mrp 1x. I had a big list of other things I needed to order and decided to give it a try. I'm thinking that if it doesn't work, I'll try filing it down some.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

coke said:


> Thanks for the help.
> 
> I went ahead and ordered the mrp 1x. I had a big list of other things I needed to order and decided to give it a try. I'm thinking that if it doesn't work, I'll try filing it down some.


I ordered one of these:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR303A00-Shimano+Lx+Fc-M582+Crankset.aspx


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

I have a noob question about a fork, I found a deal on a 2010 Fox 32 F29 RLC but it has a 53mm Crown offset (Fisher G2) What exactly does that mean and would it work on my YS ? Thanks


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

DFYFZX said:


> It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.


Cool thanks for the explanation and i think i will pass it also was 9mm qr and i found a RockShox RLT Ti with 20mm t/a almost new that i think i will buy instead for the same price.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

DFYFZX said:


> It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.


Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

DFYFZX said:


> I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!


:thumbsup:


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.


That's right.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.


Or...it might not be noticeable at all.
I have tried the regular F29 and a G2 F29 on several bikes......it's a little....and I mean VERY little different.You will notice a bigger difference in a change in air pressure/sag than the off set.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

DFYFZX said:


> Go big or go home!


Going along with your theme...2.4 Spec Purgatory on Flows. Unfortunately this is the extent of what I got done so far this weekend.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm going to run Semis and Ardent 2.4 Gonna try a Bontrager FR3 out front for a while first.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

jeffw-13 said:


> Going along with your theme...2.4 Spec Purgatory on Flows. Unfortunately this is the extent of what I got done so far this weekend.


Did you mount that tubeless? How'd it mount up??? Easy-peasy?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Im ashamed to say I stuck a tube in there for now. Too cold out in the garage to mess with sealant and too messy to bring it in the house. The Purgatory is "tubeless ready" and was a ***** to stretch over the rim so I'm guessing it will work fine tubeless when I'm ready to go there.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like. I had a b**** of a time getting the cups to go in straight with my home-made headset press. No issues with clearance and I like the way the bike handles thus far. I've only gone around my block, but so far I'm in love with the handling. Hope to get a ride in when the weather makes up its mind (dry up or freeze up - this mud is driving me nuts!)


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

jeffw-13 said:


> Im ashamed to say I stuck a tube in there for now. Too cold out in the garage to mess with sealant and too messy to bring it in the house. The Purgatory is "tubeless ready" and was a ***** to stretch over the rim so I'm guessing it will work fine tubeless when I'm ready to go there.


If you wanna give it a try the control casing tires should air up with a floor pump and hold pressure without sealant. Push down on the tire in the area of the valve stem during the first few pumps.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

alexkraemer said:


> Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like.......


You had the camera out and posted pic's but none of the whole bike? Come on man, show the goods!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

92gli said:


> If you wanna give it a try the control casing tires should air up with a floor pump and hold pressure without sealant. Push down on the tire in the area of the valve stem during the first few pumps.


Thanks I might give it a go.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.


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## Gepruts (Jan 1, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.


Don't forget the "rimstickers aren't aligned with the tyre"-police....


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Gepruts said:


> Don't forget the "rimstickers aren't aligned with the tyre"-police....


*raises hand* See my pic above. I'm anal like that :lol:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

alexkraemer said:


> i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.


Nah. Nothing but love in this thread. All Yellis are good Yellis :thumbsup:


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

DFYFZX said:


> I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!


is a 20mm that much stiffer than a qr?

by the way how does this bike fly?


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

mellowme17 said:


> is a 20mm that much stiffer than a qr?


Yes. The more travel you run, 120mm range for this bike, the more of a necessity it becomes:thumbsup:



mellowme17 said:


> by the way how does this bike fly?


You'll have to ask someone else. I'm not a jumper...


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

mellowme17 said:


> by the way how does this bike fly?


I'm thinking one of the Canfield Bothers would be most qualified to answer this. I'm guessing the answer to be "quite well".


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

*Ride #3*

Nice long singletrack climb up to a skills park today, where I hit some jump lines and wood features. Still some loaner parts from my 26" hardtail... XO brakes and a reverb on the way eventually. Fork was locked down for most of these photos.









12-36 9-spd cassette- 36t cog from eBay seller MTBtools




30t/104bcd non-ramped SS/1x ring by Andersen Machine Works. Works great, cool design. You have to bevel the tabs on the crank spider slightly inwards to clear the chain.




Super fun bike to ride.  
Compared to my 26" AM hardtail, it's like going from a Lotus Elise to Corvette  
Both feel great in different ways.
The Yelli is definitely much easier on long rides and climbs better, just generally more efficient. Surprisingly, log rides and skinnies are also easier on the big wheels. So far, doesn't feel as flickable as the 26'er on jump lines or on tight switchbacks, but definitely very capable. Corners great at speed too. I notice some adjustment in cornering technique is helping, I am over the front more, steering less and leaning more.
1x9 with the 30/36 climbing gear feels like it will be perfect for summer epic rides here. The stiff back end with the thru-axle, wide bars and light weight feel great for climbing out of the saddle.

I likey!


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

FM said:


> 30t/104bcd non-ramped SS/1x ring by Andersen Machine Works. Works great, cool design. You have to bevel the tabs on the crank spider slightly inwards to clear the chain.


 WTF?!

No mention of the non-ramped version on the website!....so I ordered the ramped version.

Oil well (oh well  ) I guess I'll just have to make do.

PS - Nice lookin' bike you got yourself there. Looks moist down there too.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

FM said:


> Nice long singletrack climb up to a skills park today, where I hit some jump lines and wood features. ..........
> I likey!


Very nice! So I'm guessing you ended up buying one? It sounded like you were borrowing it from your other post.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like.


Thank you, brother. I had a Minute in mind until I impulse-bid on a black Reba Team. Looks like I am going with a tapered fork. CFO was not amused. Man gotta do...

By the way, FM, your YS is so dope I suffered a small seizure looking at the pics. Well done. Now that funds are depleted, my unit will beat up my Karate Monkey and steal all of its components. Right down to the 14 year old compact Deore LX cranks.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Thank you, brother. I had a Minute in mind until I impulse-bid on a black Reba Team. Looks like I am going with a tapered fork. CFO was not amused. Man gotta do...


Probably the same one I was bidding on. Settled on plan B - a like new Marzocchi 44 Micro ti tapered for $250 shipped


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

car_nut said:


> Very nice! So I'm guessing you ended up buying one? It sounded like you were borrowing it from your other post.


Thanks guys. Yeah she's mine, came across the right deal at the right time.  
Really looking forward to getting 'er up into the cascades & chelan sawtooths this summer


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

geolover said:


> WTF?!
> 
> No mention of the non-ramped version on the website!....so I ordered the ramped version.
> 
> ...


E-mail Russell and tell him what you want. I asked specifically for a SS version and it's awesome because it's spaced slightly inboard (better chain clearance from cranks).


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

jeffw-13 said:


> Probably the same one I was bidding on. Settled on plan B - a like new Marzocchi 44 Micro ti tapered for $250 shipped


Was that you constantly lobbing little $50 grenades at my single mega-bid? Thank you very little, Jeffw-13. I'm eating canned beans for the rest of the winter because of you.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Teaser pic time! Still waiting on:

SLX crankset
DaBomb chainguide
Semi/Hope/Comp wheels
Controltech seatpost
180mm front Hope rotor

Use your imagination

Fox 120mm F29 RL. Tapered/15mm









Hope SS rear hub with Waltworks modded XT cassette. Set up 1x7 with Super Short cage X0









Hope Pro2 15mm thru axle hub and 160mm Hope SAW rotor(soon to be 180mm)









EDGE flat bar, Formula RX brakes, X9 trigger shifter and ESI Chunkies.









3/4 front view









Side view next to the DIRTY 2011 WRX rollin on 16" snow wheels/tires









I'll post completed pics, full parts spec, weight and a ride report if everything ever shows up...


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## kellyc (Apr 3, 2007)

Anybody else following this thread torn between the yelli and the nimble 9?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Nice! Looking good.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

kellyc said:


> Anybody else following this thread torn between the yelli and the nimble 9?


The choice was easy for me:
I'll be running geared 70% of the time and don't mind using a Rollenlager.
The 27.2 seat post greatly limits your options for droppers.
Nimble nine isn't available yet. The Yelli is in my basement. I was never one for delayed gratification.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

kellyc said:


> Anybody else following this thread torn between the yelli and the nimble 9?


Bird in hand.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Bird in hand.


Precisely. As soon as they make a SS version of the Yelli Screamy, I'll buy that frame. For now, I can manage with a chain tensioner.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Was that you constantly lobbing little $50 grenades at my single mega-bid? Thank you very little, Jeffw-13. I'm eating canned beans for the rest of the winter because of you.


No that wasn't me but I cussed that guy too :lol: I bumped it $10 bucks near the end but was already outbid by that guy

edit: I looked at the bidder history and the one you got was the fork I bid on. I bid like you, one bid for what I'm willing to pay then walk away if it goes over. Still $400 for a like new Reba aint too shabby


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Was that you constantly lobbing little $50 grenades at my single mega-bid? Thank you very little, Jeffw-13. I'm eating canned beans for the rest of the winter because of you.


Whoa. Double post...


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## Ryan G. (Aug 13, 2004)

Anyone have shots of the gold frame or built up? If they are even available yet, see that you can order on the website


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Ryan G. said:


> Anyone have shots of the gold frame or built up? If they are even available yet, see that you can order on the website


There are 3 in this thread


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Nevermind


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

In case anyone is interested:
I got 26/36 rings on an XT M770 crank to fit by using a 2.5 and a 1.8 spacer on the drive side XT b/b cup.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

DFYFZX said:


> Teaser pic time! Still waiting on:
> 
> SLX crankset
> DaBomb chainguide
> ...


Nice job on centering your lower headset. Mine drifted during install. Thing was a pain in the butt to get in straight...and it turned on me! D'ooh! I ain't taking it out...hardest headset I've ever installed. Probably because there's so much surface area.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

the mayor said:


> Nice job on centering your lower headset. Mine drifted during install. Thing was a pain in the butt to get in straight...and it turned on me! D'ooh! I ain't taking it out...hardest headset I've ever installed. Probably because there's so much surface area.


I used a large socket that fit inside the cup. A little grease around the rim and slowly tapped it in with a hammer. Went in pretty smooth. I wondered before i started if it would make it easier if i removed the paint or powdercoat from the part that goes in the frame first.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> I used a large socket that fit inside the cup. A little grease around the rim and slowly tapped it in with a hammer. Went in pretty smooth. I wondered before i started if it would make it easier if i removed the paint or powdercoat from the part that goes in the frame first.


Maybe I should have broken out the hammer!
I used a Park press. I warmed up the frame and put the headset out in the cold. The bottom cup wanted to get crooked and bind....so I was watching to keep it straight, but it turned about a 1/4, so the big "XIIX" is off to one side. Might just hit it with a Sharpie.
I've put in plenty of h/s's using a hammer and socket. Bought the Park press, which usually makes the job a piece of cake.But like I said...I think it's the big surface area of the lower cup that causes the binding. The top popped right in.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I used this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mountain-Bike-D...871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5806e087

I tightened from the top side of the frame so the bottom cup didn't rotate. Piece of cake


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

the mayor said:


> Maybe I should have broken out the hammer!
> I used a Park press. I warmed up the frame and put the headset out in the cold. The bottom cup wanted to get crooked and bind....so I was watching to keep it straight, but it turned about a 1/4, so the big "XIIX" is off to one side. Might just hit it with a Sharpie.
> I've put in plenty of h/s's using a hammer and socket. Bought the Park press, which usually makes the job a piece of cake.But like I said...I think it's the big surface area of the lower cup that causes the binding. The top popped right in.


Now that I think about it I got one of the demo frames that had a headset in before so that probably helped mine go in easier.

I have a homemade headset press that I usually use but I used the nuts & washers for something else so out came the hammer & socket


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

*2x10*

Well I wrapped up the build ( 2X10, well 3X with a bash) and hope to beat it ( I mean gently ride to brake it in) over the next few days. . 27.95lbs of fun :thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Looking good m-dub!

I'm running Ardents as well and the FD _just_ clears on mine. I have the derailleur slid down so that it just clears the chainstay and have it rotated counter-clockwise as far as it can when tightened down. I then adjusted the derailleur as far out as I could while still having it shift. Finally, I removed a little plastic cover from the derailleur spring that bought me an extra .5mm. So far I haven't heard buzzing, but I usually refrain from standing in the granny gear anyway.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Yeah nice M-Dub!
Thanks for the weight, since our builds are nearly identical, but I don't trust my cheap bathroom scale. :skep: 

FWIW, I am loving the 1x9 set up with the 30t front ring, chainguide, and 12-36 casette. Covers the range from 3mph climbing to 26mph pinning. Slower than that I'm walking, faster than that and I'm coasting!


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Looking good m-dub, Loving the all black/blue theme

And Thanks for the e-bay link FM come to find out that guy with the 36 cog's and h.s. press tool only lives 2-3 miles form me and don't tell any one but i talked to him this morning and he just finished up some 38's mmm haha might have to try it out seeing how i am running a 32 up front.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

the mayor said:


> .I think it's the big surface area of the lower cup that causes the binding. The top popped right in.


I've been putting in 1.5 headsets for 8 years...FSA, cane creeks...with a park press, no issues, many different frames.

it's not a 1.5 issue per se. either your HS or the frame was a bit out of spec.


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

Thanks guys!

FM: What guide and chain ring are you running? Any issues with a smaller ring and the guide? I have been using 32/34 with a MRP X1 and really loved it but needed more gear.I now have 36 22/32 but I'm thinking you may have the ticket 

Car-nut: Thanks for the tips, I will give them a go. I have a few miles on a trials bike so I do stand and lurch in my granny from time to time. Dam short says are soooo nice to play on.

Nomad: Didn't plan on a theme, just kinda worked out that way. Not sure if black and blue is such a good theme ? I guess it is a bit of a bruiser


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Another 'finished' Yelli for your viewing pleasure.










Initial impression is that the front end is too tall with the Marzocchi 44 Bomber at 140mm. I'll likely drop it down to 120mm or even 100mm at some point. The obligatory spin around the neighbor hood was good. It felt comfortable right away and pedaled easily with the 1x9 setup (32t ring/12/36 cassette) The 2.4 purgatory tires rolled surprisingly well for a big knobby with tubes. Cant wait to get 'em set up tubeless.

I wasn't gonna weigh this bike because, frankly, I didn't wanna know. Curiosity got the best of me tho. It's a tic under 29 lbs with tubes and a little snow on the tires, which i was happy with. I expected it to be over 30. With a Reba and some lighter tires minus tubes it could easily be 27 lbs.

The wait for the 7" of snow to melt continues....


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

m-dub said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> FM: What guide and chain ring are you running? Any issues with a smaller ring and the guide? I have been using 32/34 with a MRP X1 and really loved it but needed more gear.I now have 36 22/32 but I'm thinking you may have the ticket


I am running the Andersen Machine Works 30t ring with a MRP Brian "The situation" Lopes chainguide. Also running a 12-36 casettte. Lots of big mountain climbs in the summer so I need easy gears.

The Andersen chainring is really cool- uses some alternate hardware that allows for more material on the chainring.

No issues- everything works great. The bottom of the upper chainguide is pushed down against the chainstay. Nice light simple and shifts great.


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## csytsma (Nov 2, 2010)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.


I came across the same Fox fork on ebay, at a very good price. Can anyone help explain a little more about this 53mm offset, pros and cons? A 3.8lb Fox fork would be very nice on my YS, but I don't want to compromise any of this sweet handling I've been reading about.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

csytsma said:


> I came across the same Fox fork on ebay, at a very good price. Can anyone help explain a little more about this 53mm offset, pros and cons? A 3.8lb Fox fork would be very nice on my YS, but I don't want to compromise any of this sweet handling I've been reading about.


I have one mounted on mine....but constant snow has kept me off of it.
I have tried the G2 fork on other frames along with the standard off set fork. The difference is very very very small. You will notice a bigger difference by playing with air/sag.


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

jeffw-13 said:


> Another 'finished' Yelli for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> Initial impression is that the front end is too tall with the Marzocchi 44 Bomber at 140mm. I'll likely drop it down to 120mm or even 100mm at some point. .


 does it feel too slack or too tall?How about running a zero rise stem?


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

csytsma said:


> I came across the same Fox fork on ebay, at a very good price. Can anyone help explain a little more about this 53mm offset, pros and cons? A 3.8lb Fox fork would be very nice on my YS, but I don't want to compromise any of this sweet handling I've been reading about.


The greater off set of the G2 forks actually quicken the steering, as already stated, so my guess it is a "good thing" to offset the slackening of the tall fork.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

m-dub said:


> does it feel too slack or too tall?How about running a zero rise stem?


Yup im gonna try that first but the bb is up there too. On paper the HA should be around 67* with a 140mm fork :lol:


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## kjartandaddy (Jan 14, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> Another 'finished' Yelli for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice. What size is this?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

kjartandaddy said:


> Nice. What size is this?


It's an XL


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

To those who asked about weight....my large frame came in at 4.5 lbs and 26 lbs on the nose built up with:
XT drive train 9 speed and shifters.
Fox G2 F29 100
Xt cranks with 26/36
Bontrager Rhythm Elites w Bont ACX 2.2 tubeless
Juicy 3 brakes
Selle Italia vanox SLR on a Easton ec90 27.2 post w shim
Bont Big Sweep bar, FSA 190 stem and Ergons
and Time ROC pedals
Mostly stuff I had laying around....going to put some lighter stuff on it if I like it


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Got mine done too It's a Medium. No ride impressions yet since there's been a crap ton of snow on the ground for a couple weeks

Parts list:

-2010 Medium Silver Yelli Screamy
-2010 Fox F29 RL 120mm tapered steerer 15mm thu axle
-Shimano SLX crankset and bottom bracket. Using Truvativ NOIR carbon bashguard and ti 32t sprocket
-Blackspire Sub4 pedals
-SRAM XO super short cage
-SRAM X9 trigger shifter
-EDGE flat carbon bar
-KCNC 70mm +5/-5 stem(soon to be replaced with a Syntace Superforce 75mm +6/-6 stem)
-Some crap seatpost I had laying around(ControlTech post on the way)
-Specialized Phenom Expert 130mm saddle
-ESI Chunky grips
-Formula RX brakes with sintered pads
-Hope SAW 160mm rotors with ti bolts(front is going to be 180mm when adapter shows up)
-Salsa QR seatpost clamp
-Connex Wipperman 911S chain
-Bontrager FR3 2.3 tires
-Gorilla Tape tubeless conversion with Stans valves
-Salsa Semi 36h 30mm wide 36h rims
-DT Swiss Competition spokes
-DT Swiss alloy nips
-Hope Pro2 front hub
-Hope Pro2 singlespeed rear hub
-Shimano XT 34t cassette with custom machine work by Waltworks. Using the top 6 gears on the carrier and one 13t loose cog.
-modified MRP 1X bottom bracket mount chainguide. I wanted a bashguard so I'm only using the inside piece which I ground down extensively with a bench grinder. Works great! I've had the guide for a few years so I didn't destroy a brand new piece



























































































The bike weighs 26.6lbs as it sits. Should drop to around 26.4 when the new seatpost, stem and brake parts show up. Not really concerned with weight on this build but everyone always asks


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

very nice build!
looks clean!


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Nice build indeed. I especially dig the 36h wheels. Smart move, in my book. Tell us how those pedals work out for you. Seems like a good design, good price, and a good weight.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

*Very nize......*

Nice build, and I like how many of us yelli owners have similar builds!

Also curios about the pedals, keep us posted!

Did a long XC night ride on mine last night, really love how well it climbs out of the saddle.

One thing I noticed, the Alu frame can get loud at speeds, you will want some padding on that DS chainstay


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

The pedals came off my previous bike, which I rode a few times before this build, so I can report that they're NICE! I have nothing but good to say about them so far. The fit and finish is fantastic! I currently have a pair of Azonic 420s and Answer Roves on my other bikes. Side by side, the finish and feel of the Sub4 makes the others look like a set of Wally World pedals! I like the pin design, the weight, bearings...everything about them Only pedals I think I would like better are a pair of the Point1s but I'm not that big of a spender


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## The Haunted (Jul 10, 2009)

Pretty impressive build :thumbsup: And nice fork


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

The Haunted said:


> And nice fork


It sure is:thumbsup:


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Looks sweet. Cant wait to get some real saddle time on mine


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

buddhak said:


> I especially dig the 36h wheels. Smart move, in my book.


I really don't get why all trail oriented 29ers don't use 36 spokes. I'm not an expert wheel builder or anything, but isn't it a worthwhile "upgrade" for anything but the uber light XC race rigs to have 4x lacing and 12% more spokes for such a tiny weight penalty??? 4x is stronger than 3x, correct? All my 29ers from here on out will have 36 spokes:thumbsup:


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

If anyone needs a direct mount front derailleur, Jenson has a SHIMANO XT M771D for $10.50. I plan on using this until MRP comes out with their direct mount guide for 1x9


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

coke said:


> If anyone needs a direct mount front derailleur, Jenson has a SHIMANO XT M771D for $10.50. I plan on using this until MRP comes out with their direct mount guide for 1x9


Holy crap! That must be an error on their part.


----------



## yellowducman (Apr 18, 2010)

I just got one. Got free economy shipping also. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

*Another Screamy Done*

Finally got most of my parts this week and had time yesterday to build, The only thing i have to wait for is Rs to send my lbs a replacement lower as i was lucky enough to get one that off set's my front wheel so i could not mount front brake haha who need's front brakes ? (great c.s. from lbs and Rs) but that wont stop me from breaking it in this weekend  not sure how accurate it is but according to my bathroom scale it weights in at 23lbs. i will get more accurate reading next week when i take it in for bike shop replaces my lower's

Part's list

Medium black Canfield Brother's yelli screamy
2011 Rs reba rlt ti with 20mm maxle/black box
Sunringle charger expert wheel's
2011 Raceface ride crank's 175mm/32 ring
2011 Raceface ride 660mm/31.8 bars
2011 Raceface ride 60mm/31.8 stem
2011 Raceface ride 30.9 seat poost
Raceface grips (white)
Ht pedals (white/red)
Salsa seat clamp
Specialized Format 143 saddle (white)
X-7 Shifter
X-7 med. cage rear der.
Juicy three brakes (had them sitting around)
Sram 990 cassette 11-32, (picking up 36 cog this weekend)
Sram 971 chain
Fsa headset,reduced to solid 1 1/8
Ardent 2.2 front (tubless)
Ignitor 2.1 rear (tubeless)


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

DFYFZX said:


> I really don't get why all trail oriented 29ers don't use 36 spokes. I'm not an expert wheel builder or anything, but isn't it a worthwhile "upgrade" for anything but the uber light XC race rigs to have 4x lacing and 12% more spokes for such a tiny weight penalty??? 4x is stronger than 3x, correct? All my 29ers from here on out will have 36 spokes:thumbsup:


My understanding is that increasing spoke cross in and of itself does not increase wheel strength. What is important is the angle at which a spoke enters/leaves the hub flange. The closer you can get to a tangential take off from the flange, the more resistant a hub flange becomes to cracking under the tension exerted by the spoke. Radial spoking takes off 90 degrees off of the ideal tangential angle, for reference, and so pulls against the thin bit of material between the spoke hole and the hub flange edge. If I had a some computer skillz I would draw this, but I don't. The larger the wheel diameter and the smaller the hub flange diameter, the more "cross" a spoke will encounter before it hits the nipple. So basically, cross pattern is determined by # of spokes, hub flange diameter, and ERD. I am sure a pro wheelbuilder can better explain this. But the punchline is this: simply increasing spoke crossings from 3x to 4x will not necessarily increase wheel strength, stiffness, resilience, etc. By the way, this is all in Jobst Brandt's book as well as other online sources.

But back to 36h wheels, I think they make the most sense for wagon wheel applications. The way I reason it is this: the larger your rim diameter, and the fewer number of spokes you have, the longer the distance between spokes at the rim. So the more unsupported rim you have, and the more prone those sections of rim are to flattening or loosing true. The solution is to either strengthen the rim, or to add more spokes. If you strengthen the rim, chances are you make it more massive, and that mass is added to the edges of the wheel. Which is bad. I would rather spread that added mass to the center of the wheel if possible. 4 more DB spokes and alum nipples add ~25gm to a wheel, distributed from hub to rim. That's like a squirt of piss.

Maybe I should get back to work...


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## onlyontwo (Nov 21, 2006)

the mayor said:


> Holy crap! That must be an error on their part.


Nope, no error! :thumbsup:

Guys, I'm really digging these Yelli's. I would love to see what one with an angleset and a 100mm fork would feel like. Lower the bottom bracket slightly and steepen the seat tube a bit.

Cheers,
Andy


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

buddhak said:


> My understanding is that increasing spoke cross in and of itself does not increase wheel strength. What is important is the angle at which a spoke enters/leaves the hub flange. The closer you can get to a tangential take off from the flange, the more resistant a hub flange becomes to cracking under the tension exerted by the spoke. Radial spoking takes off 90 degrees off of the ideal tangential angle, for reference, and so pulls against the thin bit of material between the spoke hole and the hub flange edge. If I had a some computer skillz I would draw this, but I don't. The larger the wheel diameter and the smaller the hub flange diameter, the more "cross" a spoke will encounter before it hits the nipple. So basically, cross pattern is determined by # of spokes, hub flange diameter, and ERD. I am sure a pro wheelbuilder can better explain this. But the punchline is this: simply increasing spoke crossings from 3x to 4x will not necessarily increase wheel strength, stiffness, resilience, etc. By the way, this is all in Jobst Brandt's book as well as other online sources.
> 
> But back to 36h wheels, I think they make the most sense for wagon wheel applications. The way I reason it is this: the larger your rim diameter, and the fewer number of spokes you have, the longer the distance between spokes at the rim. So the more unsupported rim you have, and the more prone those sections of rim are to flattening or loosing true. The solution is to either strengthen the rim, or to add more spokes. If you strengthen the rim, chances are you make it more massive, and that mass is added to the edges of the wheel. Which is bad. I would rather spread that added mass to the center of the wheel if possible. 4 more DB spokes and alum nipples add ~25gm to a wheel, distributed from hub to rim. That's like a squirt of piss.
> 
> Maybe I should get back to work...


My distillation of all this is that for 32H go with 3X. If you're going to 36H, go with 4X because the added weight is negligable and you'll get a stronger wheel than going 36H with 3X. Ask the wheelbuilders what they think.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> My distillation of all this is that for 32H go with 3X. If you're going to 36H, go with 4X because the added weight is negligable and you'll get a stronger wheel than going 36H with 3X. Ask the wheelbuilders what they think.


Actually, not my point. Jobst Brandt recommends 3x for 36h 700c rims. 4x may be a better choice on 40 spoke touring rims using small flange diameter road hubs. Disc hubs usually have taller flanges.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

buddhak said:


> My understanding is that increasing spoke cross in and of itself does not increase wheel strength.


Buddhaks got it right. 4x requires longer spokes... 
Would a 36h wheel with 1.8 spokes be stronger than a 32h wheel with 2.0 spokes?:idea:

I think a lot of old-school wheelbuilders are also thinking about how to add some forgiveness to road bike wheels, especially touring bikes. 36h, 4x= more, longer, thinner spokes= more vertical compliance without losing strength?

Personally for MTBs, I would always select a wider, beefier rim first, then thicker spokes, before increasing spoke count or cross. And NEVER use alloy nipples.


Nice bike socalnomadrider!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

coke said:


> If anyone needs a direct mount front derailleur, Jenson has a SHIMANO XT M771D for $10.50. I plan on using this until MRP comes out with their direct mount guide for 1x9


Great find! Just ordered one. Here's the link for anyone else who's interested

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FD267A00-Shimano+Xt+M771d+Direct+Mount+Derailleur.aspx


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

[I[/QUOTE]

Nice! I used the same guide but just shaved the outer guide with a dermel. I rode it for a year with zero drops on some solid DH shuttles. I love to see people mod stuff to fit their needs, gives me hope that there are still free thinkers in this world:thumbsup:


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

Here is my version.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Nice job! I like it I might buy just the guide part from MRP and get to modifying again...hmmm


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Just got the first ride in - what an amazing ride! I have it set up SS with a 120mm minute and the bike is the best 29er I've ever had. I had tons of traction while climbing and descending was a blast. Keep up the good work Canfield!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I walked the local trails today and everything is an inch thick with ice. It's killing me. Cant wait to get mine out on the trails!


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

alexkraemer said:


> Just got the first ride in - what an amazing ride! I have it set up SS with a 120mm minute and the bike is the best 29er I've ever had. I had tons of traction while climbing and descending was a blast. Keep up the good work Canfield!


photos? set up?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Cane Creek tapered headset for $60 bucks.

https://www.transitionbikes.com/Store/Detail.cfm?Token={ts_2011-02-06_12:27:57}-71481743&P=1568


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## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

*Finally!!!*

I thought this day would never come, but I FINALLY finished my Yelli Screamy. I dunno why, but this build was a lot more tedious and time consuming than I ever could have imagined. I think a lot of it had to do with tearing down two existing bikes, reconditioning their parts for use with this one, as well as spec'ing out a bunch of oddball new stuff to complete the project. So, in the end, I took a 6x6 FS 26'er, and a rigid SS 29'er and melded them together into this wonderful contraption...

Build List:
XL Yelli Screamy Frame
Maverick DUC32 Fork
Maverick 70mm Stem
Groovy Luv Handle Bars (28" wide)
Ergon grips
Hope/Flow 36H
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 FT/RR (set up tubeless)
Shimano XT Crankset
Shimano XT Front Derailleur
Shimano XT 11-34 Cassette
Shimano XT Crankset (180mm)
Shimano XTR Bottom Bracket
SRAM XO Rear Derailleur
SRAM XO Twist Shifters
Gusset DHS-9 Chain
RockShox Reverb Seatpost
Salsa LipLock Seatpost Clamp
SDG Bel Air Ti Rail Saddle
Cane Creek 40 Series Headset
Magura Marta '09 Brakes (set up "Moto" style) with new Storm SL Rotors (180mm front/160mm rear)
Jagwire Shifter Cables









































I'll probably end up switching out the bars/grips to something wider and straighter as there is barely enough room to get the grips to clamp onto (the bars were harvested from my SS), but this is what I had laying around.

It's set up as a 3x9 right now, but I'll most likely do some experimentation with 2x9, 1x9 and even SS in the future.

Most importantly of all, I have to say that the Canfield Bros. were absolutely AWESOME to work with and their customer service is second to none. All bike companies could take a lesson from these guys on how to run a business. If this thing rides half as good as I think it will, they've earned a customer for life!

Neighborhood cruise this afternoon to work out the adjustments, maiden voyage tomorrow!!


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

One of the sweetest builds yet, Notch. Looking forward to a ride report.


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## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

*Ride Report*

Thanks Blue State!

Got out today for about 10 or so miles of flowy singletrack. This thing is RAD. I absolutely love it!! :thumbsup:

Trails I took were mostly buff and fast XC stuff, with some small tech sections (both up and down) thrown in for flavour. Conditions were absolutely perfect! Mostly dry, damp in areas, some creek crossings, and even some snow on the side of the trails in places... killer!

Climbing was better than I expected. In seated climbing, the front end feels light, but overly so and I didn't experience any unwanted front wheel lift. That said, I could lift it intentionally with just a blip of power and a tiny tug up on the bars. Standing climbing was really good too. I'm used to being way more over the front wheel on my SS, but I had no problem adjusting to the new ergos on the Yelli. Tight uphill switchbacks were a piece of cake. I really thought the raked out front end would be a hindrance but such was not the case. Traction was plentiful and I didn't have any problems cleaning the hills.

Motoring along on the flats and winding trails, I was really surprised how nice the ride was for a stiff rear ended AL HT. I swear it feels like a nice steel bike, but that could have a lot to do with the giant, pillowy, tubeless Ardents and a little noted flex of the Reverb post. The frame felt nice & lively, accelerated with authority and ricocheting from left to right through corners was a lot of fun with the nice low CG. Pulling manuals (like the one in that video) were almost too easy.  Anyways I was really pleased to say the least.

Climbing and cruising are great, but where this thing gets super fun in a hurry is when you point it down... holy crap! It's almost like it transforms in a split second from mild mannered XC bike into a terrain gobbling beast with a hunger for rocks and a need for speed. Drop the post, get back and hang on! The bike absolutely hauls and felt super stable. This geo on this thing is very confidence inspiring... the Canfields nailed it! It went exactly where I pointed it and wasn't nervous or sketchy at all... a very solid ride! Also happy to report I didn't die, or even crash despite this being my first ride with my brakes set up "moto" style. Hope I don't forget...

The only issues I had were very minor and had nothing to do with the frame. Seat clamp was creaking after a bit (because I didn't prep it properly) and the fork was clunking when in lockout (not sure what that's all about, but seems to be par for the course with the DUC). Other than that, it worked flawlessly and I can't wait to get out and flog it again!

































Happy Trails,
Notch


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Notch,
Nice build up....really nice!
And I envy your riding conditions. Took mine out for the first time yesterday on snowmobile trails. With 3 feet of snow here.....it's going to be a while before dirt hits my tires.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Yes! Let the meltdown begin!

Today: Partly sunny, with a high near 43
Tuesday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 40
Wednesday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 48
Thursday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 52
Friday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 56
Saturday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 48

It's Yelli time


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## Notch Johnson (Feb 16, 2008)

the mayor said:


> Notch,
> Nice build up....really nice!
> And I envy your riding conditions. Took mine out for the first time yesterday on snowmobile trails. With 3 feet of snow here.....it's going to be a while before dirt hits my tires.


Thanks Mayor! Your ride is looking sweet as well... I'm digging the gold.

We are indeed lucky here... 67deg today and all low lying trails are clear. I feel like a shitheel for even posting that when so many others are socked in.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Notch Johnson said:


> . I feel like a shitheel for even posting that when so many others are socked in.


And I would have to agree that you should feel like a shitheel


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Just got a good 2 hour ride in on snowmobile and packed snow shoe trails.
I brought along my Lenz Lev4 to compare...and using the same studded tire/wheel setup ( Nokians).

I have both cockpits pretty close to identical in sizing...but had to use a shorter stem and flat bar to get there on the Screamy.

Both bikes have a 43 3/4 wheelbase...but the chainstays are 18 on the Lenz and sub 17 on the YS.

Climbing on ice...the YS never spun the tire, even when standing. I had to pay attention when out of the saddle on the Lenz.Maybe caused by the shorter chainstays on the YS??

The YS seemed a VERY LITTLE bit quicker steering and handling. I have a Fox 100 G2 on the YS and a DT SWiss XCR100 on the Lev.The front does come up a little easier on the YS to get over the only log I could find. Overall , they both handle very close...I don't see a big problem switching between the 2 bikes like I've experienced with other bikes.

I did get the bike to chainsuck, despite the tight tolerances. I'm hoping that the combo of a new chain with cold lube ( it's about 20 degrees out)on older chain rings...along with a sloppy loaded downshift was the culprit. I'm going to try to move the crank in a little during the week.I'm using Shimano 26/36 rings on a XT crank with 2.5 and 1.7 spacers and a KMC 10 speed chain.Going to try replacing the 1.7 spacer with a .8

I originally built the Yelli for a winter bike....but I have a feeling it may see it's fair share of use during the summer. It's a fun bike


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

We spent the day riding at Black Rock on the Yelli Screamy Saturday, well at least my 2 buddies got to ride it, I was stuck riding my rigid Sir9, talk about bringing a knife to a gun fight. From the chatter on the way home, they were pretty impressed. Maybe Chris can post up some of the pics?

Also got a chance to check out the new MRP direct mount chainguide, looks really nice and clean.


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

great reviews...


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## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

*New Video From the Brothers: Yelli Jumping*

http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/news/lance-like-to-jump-a-29er


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## vaughnm (Jun 21, 2008)

OldHouseMan said:


> We spent the day riding at Black Rock on the Yelli Screamy Saturday, well at least my 2 buddies got to ride it, I was stuck riding my rigid Sir9, talk about bringing a knife to a gun fight. From the chatter on the way home, they were pretty impressed. Maybe Chris can post up some of the pics?
> 
> Also got a chance to check out the new MRP direct mount chainguide, looks really nice and clean.


I rode with Chris this week and rode one of the Yelli's. Super fun bike. Ride was not as rough as my carbon S-Works 26 HT.
VM


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Any more headset advice? I want the lowest stack height possible to keep the front end low(ish). Will be running non-tapered steerer.
The two easily available to me in the UK are these:
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HSHOCOMBI/hope-combi-headset-(integral--step-down)
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HSOOSMTAPER/on-one-smoothie-mixer-tapered-headset

I wondered if there were any with a lower bottom stack height that were not too $$$$. (although I presume downtube clearance will still be ok?)


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

Clink said:


> Any more headset advice? I want the lowest stack height possible to keep the front end low(ish). Will be running non-tapered steerer.
> The two easily available to me in the UK are these:
> http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HSHOCOMBI/hope-combi-headset-(integral--step-down)
> http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HSOOSMTAPER/on-one-smoothie-mixer-tapered-headset
> ...


If you want low stack height, the only flush lower cup is from Cane Creek. HSS24030
It's actually cheaper than the non-flush mount version. (see pics http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm?stylepkey=21110&style_id=205%20CACLW0&detailName=Cane%20Creek%20Lower%20Headset%20Assembly


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Thanks - presume would need HSS0204K top part from here http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/21111-205_CACUP0-3-Parts-63-Headsets/Cane-Creek-Upper-Headset-Assembly.htm ?

Presume this combo will work? http://www.canecreek.com/component-headsets?browse=Bottom&btmName=40&btmProduct=40.ZS49%20Bottom&topName=40&topProduct=40.ZS44%20Short%20Top

Why don't the codes on Pricepoint match up with those on Cane Creek website? Confusing...


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

so i guess no one is riding the yelli rigid? would a 485ac fork be to short?


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## naya the dingo (Aug 26, 2010)

mellowme17 said:


> so i guess no one is riding the yelli rigid? would a 485ac fork be to short?


If you used an external lower headset cup it'd be alright, you might need to watch out for some pedal strikes though. I have flush lower headset cup and a fox 100mm fork on mine right now. Less pedal strikes than I had expected, but I have some 2.4 Ardents on there so that may help out a little.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

mellowme17 said:


> so i guess no one is riding the yelli rigid? would a 485ac fork be to short?


Voodoo has a 500mm AC 29er fork available now.

500mm AC height
Steel
45mm offset

Google up Voodoo Zombie 500 fork for more.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

What seatpost length are people using? Got an offer on a 367mm Thomson, but worried I might need a 410? 5'10" on medium frame btw


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

I have a 33" inseam, on a Medium, and NEED a 400+mm post. 367mm won't cut it...


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

DFYFZX said:


> I have a 33" inseam, on a Medium, and NEED a 400+mm post. 367mm won't cut it...


Thanks for that - saved me making a mistake! :thumbsup:


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

DFYFZX said:


> I have a 33" inseam, on a Medium, and NEED a 400+mm post. 367mm won't cut it...


I'm like 5'-9" / 31" inseam. With a 410 thomson post I could not drop the seat more than 3" before hitting the WB bosses. Swapped for a 380mm, which has barely 3" insertion at climbing saddle height... now I can drop the seat about 4-1/2". I don't want to blow the WB boss issue out of proportion, it could probably be fixed by having a shop ream/hone the inside of the seat tube to remove the WB boss from the interior. But I would consider going straight to a dropper or telescoping seat post.


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## JLantz (Feb 8, 2005)

A ream is not designed for, or capable of removing a large, isolated, obstruction within a bore. Your LBS will be no help.

The compression installed, aluminum rivnut WB bosses the CanBros used are simple to remove; weaken the outer flange (use a file), insert suitable bolt, and break compressed boss free.


Circles are strong; to a point. A hula hoop is relatively strong until it gets a bend (stress riser) in it; that bend makes it useless. You don't want that hole (x2) in your ST to have any bends, no matter how small.

The holes left in the ST CAN be made structurally sound if close attention to detail is applied; i.e. remove the stress risers. 

~700 Wet/Dry (use it wet) to remove the tooling marks. Then ~1200 WD (again, wet) to "polish". Foam is great to make supports for the sandpaper within the holes. 

Sharpie marker inside the hole and piece of tape are acceptable finishes for this application.

I removed the ST WB bosses and my 400mm post can now be adjusted from full climbing extension to BMX slammed. 

I work with critical aluminum structures daily and accept the risks of this modification. Do not attempt this without the proper skills.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Ah that's interesting, I was sure the bosses were welded in, but you are right, they are rivnuts.

I will just wait for my reverb though.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

*Now go get it dirty!*

Someone always says that when people post pics of their shiny new bike, so there ya go

Finally got a good ride in on her yesterday!

I really didnt think Id like it with the fork at 140mm but i was wrong. I handles everything beautifully! My local ride has a lot of tight uphill switchbacks and short but steep climbs. I thought the short chainstay/tall front end would be a problem but its all good. The front never feels light. I also thought 140mm would be more than I would ever use but the ol' dirt ring on the stanchion tube shows I almost bottomed it out.

Going down hill through rough twisty stuff is a blast. It never feels like Im out of control or about to die. This bike likes to rip and wants to be thrown around and get air! Its an XL but it doesnt feel big under me at all.

Im also really liking the Spec Purgatory tires now that Ive got the tubes out. They really roll well for a big knobby and traction is never an issue. They're very confidence inspiring. I can lean it over hard in a corner and it sticks or has a nice controlled drift. Good bite getting up the hills too. Easiest tubeless set up Ive ever done.

A few planned changes to my set up...

Double ring crankset. I miss the small ring on this bike, mainly because Ive let myself go over the winter and I could use that smaller cog up front to grind those hills, at least until Im back in mid season form. I have a 24/34 on my 26" bike and Ill probably steal it for the Yelli and run the 26" 1x9

I need to open up the Marzocchi 44 fork and do the anti stiction mod. Honestly I barely notice it when Im riding but I know its there and it needs fixed. Otherwise its a great fork. It disappears under you, which is good, I think. Everything Ive read says its even better after the mod is done. :thumbsup:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=625743&highlight=marzocchi+44

I may cut a little length off my bars. They feel good where they are but our trails wind thru tight northeast forest land and Ive clipped both ends on trees and have the bruises on my hands to prove it. Ill leave it alone for now and see if I adapt.


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## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

jeffw,

how tall are you and what is your inseam?


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## pulsepro (Sep 13, 2007)

the mayor said:


> In case anyone is interested:
> I got 26/36 rings on an XT M770 crank to fit by using a 2.5 and a 1.8 spacer on the drive side XT b/b cup.


Are your rings ramped and pined? If so, where'd you get them?


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

jeffw-13

If you are riding already - then you aren't very "northeast!" 

Still loads of snow to contend with up here in CT (and heck that's not even all that Northeast to me).


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## pulsepro (Sep 13, 2007)

MMcG said:


> jeffw-13
> 
> If you are riding already - then you aren't very "northeast!"
> 
> Still loads of snow to contend with up here in CT (and heck that's not even all that Northeast to me).


No doubt! Maybe mid-atlantic at best.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

letsgo said:


> jeffw,
> 
> how tall are you and what is your inseam?


Why? Do you need to borrow pants?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

pulsepro said:


> Are your rings ramped and pined? If so, where'd you get them?


You can get XT771 rings from universal cycle that are ramped .
I am now running an unramped Rotor 36t ring and it shifts fine with a Dura Ace der on my Lenz


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

MMcG said:


> jeffw-13
> 
> If you are riding already - then you aren't very "northeast!"
> 
> Still loads of snow to contend with up here in CT (and heck that's not even all that Northeast to me).


I still have a couple of feet of white crap on the NH border....
but I hear the Cape is clear and might head that way this weekend.


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## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

the mayor said:


> Why? Do you need to borrow pants?


Yes Trying to figure out how much seat post will be exposed on the XL frame. I am 6 ft 6 with a 36 inseam.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

letsgo said:


> Yes Trying to figure out how much seat post will be exposed on the XL frame. I am 6 ft 6 with a 36 inseam.


I'm only 6ft...but have a 36 inseam and ride a large. Had to use a 400 post ....so you'll have about an inch less post showing(?)
See my pic above


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

letsgo said:


> jeffw,
> 
> how tall are you and what is your inseam?


Im 6' 3". My pants inseam is 35", dont know what my bike inseam is.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

MMcG said:


> jeffw-13
> 
> If you are riding already - then you aren't very "northeast!"
> 
> Still loads of snow to contend with up here in CT (and heck that's not even all that Northeast to me).


Pittsburgh area. Our snow just melted last week, then it rained. And rained. Then rained some more. :madman:


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> Pittsburgh area. Our snow just melted last week, then it rained. And rained. Then rained some more. :madman:


Your rain turned into 6 or more inches of white stuff in the real north east....and talk of a little more on Monday.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Patience, my brethren. Soon the trees will sprout very thirsty leaves, and there will be much joyful Yelling and Screaming.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

the mayor said:


> Your rain turned into 6 or more inches of white stuff in the real north east....and talk of a little more on Monday.


Sucks man. I feel for you.

I dont get that specific on the geographic thing. Split the nation into 1/4's & Im in the northeast. Can we let it go now?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> Sucks man. I feel for you.
> 
> I dont get that specific on the geographic thing. Split the nation into 1/4's & Im in the northeast. Can we let it go now?


It was just the voice of envy. 
But...there is clear riding 1 1/2 hours away from me....heading there tomorrow, rain or shine.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

the mayor said:


> It was just the voice of envy.
> But...there is clear riding 1 1/2 hours away from me....heading there tomorrow, rain or shine.


heading to Otis???


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

MMcG said:


> heading to Otis???


Either Otis or ToT


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

the mayor said:


> It was just the voice of envy.
> But...there is clear riding 1 1/2 hours away from me....heading there tomorrow, rain or shine.


No worries. Hope you find some dirt this weekend. Ride on brother. :thumbsup:


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

jeffw-13 said:


> No worries. Hope you find some dirt this weekend. Ride on brother. :thumbsup:


Going to be the first time on a hard tail on dirt in a long time.
Heading to the Cape where there are about 3 rocks total.
Usually ride a Lenz Lev 4....I live on 1 of the largest granite veins on the planet....so rocky and rooty are an understatement


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Here is my YS in commuter form, Thanks to all the rain we have been getting lately i have resorted to putting some street miles on it and am still as impressed on the pavement as i am the dirt.

Note the custom light mount for my $19.99 costco 3x 150 lumens light, they are brackets from old reflector's


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## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

*Say what....Commuter bike ????*



SoCalNomadRider said:


> Here is my YS in commuter form


 Nice....I've been thinking of commuting to work and selling my Hummer ! :devil:

Seriously , nice bike ! :thumbsup: TIG.


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## schizz (Nov 28, 2010)

*first ride*

So..got my Lg black yelli on Monday. LBS helped put together a nicve build in my budget, reba, stan's arch, formula hubs, elixr, X9 1x9 w/mrp, etc.. anyway blew out the back tire before hitting the trail, my fault trying to run to low pressure. Ghetto rigged with a splash of stans and 26 tube. To the trail, up and up it went with my out of shape legs pushing it as best I could. Hard to tell if I should of put more gears on her or if I'm just out of shape. 1 of 3 people to make the climb though I had to stop twice. Hard to tell much difference between this and my 26 single speed ARC( but that does only weigh 19 pounds).to the flats, all of a sudden I am fast, rocks and sand don't seem to matter very little chatter and hard to tell because my wheel is really out of true due to earlier incident.To the down, Yikes, is it as smooth as a FS? No. But wicked fast, super predictable rear, rolled over everything, crazy nimble and was able to pick my way through lines or choose just to blow over stuff. did I mention fast, I have never had to use my brakes as much on any other bike. I am critical of my purchases, but holy crud, after one ride I would say this is the best overall bike that I have ridden. First bike since my very first that I feel I cannot ride to level of performace it offers(yet). If your thinking about one, quit, and just order one.
-Ride fast, take chances


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

too much snow & great skiing in tahoe this winter, but I recently found time to build up (mostly...still waiting on the SR Charger Pro wheelset to arrive...) the Yelli:










been coasting around the hills to get a feel for the geo. the chromag 70 mm stem / 720 answer carbon bars feels perfect. manuals and hops feel great on this bike...very different than typical 29er. Tahoe has more and more log rides/skinnies on our trails, and this bike will be perfect for that. will be running 2.4 ardent / 2.4 purgatory tires, and 1X10 shimano drivetrain, and a reverb when that arrives.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

frorider said:


> too much snow & great skiing in tahoe this winter, but I recently found time to build up (mostly...still waiting on the SR Charger Pro wheelset to arrive...) the Yelli:


Nice! Silver is for winners. :thumbsup:


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

geolover said:


> Nice! Silver is for winners. :thumbsup:


Looks gold to me.


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

mellowme17 said:


> Looks gold to me.


It very well could be...I'm just stating a scientific fact.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

it's gold, but as with some other photos in this thread, it kinda looks silver in the photo.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

Just needs a couple of tweaks in your favourite photo editor to bring out the gold


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

I finally got around to putting the YS through its paces on my local trail (Wissahickon - Philly) today. I have the YS set up with a 120mm Reba Team (maxle, tapered), singlespeed 30:18 with a tensioner, 70mm stem and 685mm bars, BB7s, platform pedals, tubed Rampages F&R. I am coming from a Karate Monkey SS. In short, this bike rocks. It takes the mystery out of bunny hopping. Manuals are easier (but still mysterious for me). Track standing reveals how chopper-like the head angle is on this bike, at least compared to the KM with an 80mm fork. But on the trail, standing and climbing, the slack head angle is not an issue. This bike climbs as well as the KM. On banked turns and technical descents this bike is a hoot. The short wheelbase and relaxed head angle turn this bike into a hot rod. I wish I was in better shape in order to really give the bike a good flogging, but that will come in time. If I could change something about the build, I probably would put a Manipoo Tower on there instead of the Reba. I'm sorry, I just love the platform adjustment on the Minute/Tower, and I miss it on this bike. Pictures tomorrow...I promise...maybe. In the meantime, look at MartinUK's YSSS and imagine it in black...without the bling cranks and pedals.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Behold, Wig Peeler II


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

That's a mean looking bike !


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Nice Yelli buddhak! Are you going to the dirtfest at Raystown?


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

buddhak said:


> I finally got around to putting the YS through its paces on my local trail (Wissahickon - Philly) today. I have the YS set up with a 120mm Reba Team (maxle, tapered), singlespeed 30:18 with a tensioner, 70mm stem and 685mm bars, BB7s, platform pedals, tubed Rampages F&R. I am coming from a Karate Monkey SS. In short, this bike rocks. It takes the mystery out of bunny hopping. Manuals are easier (but still mysterious for me). Track standing reveals how chopper-like the head angle is on this bike, at least compared to the KM with an 80mm fork. But on the trail, standing and climbing, the slack head angle is not an issue. This bike climbs as well as the KM. On banked turns and technical descents this bike is a hoot. The short wheelbase and relaxed head angle turn this bike into a hot rod. I wish I was in better shape in order to really give the bike a good flogging, but that will come in time. If I could change something about the build, I probably would put a Manipoo Tower on there instead of the Reba. I'm sorry, I just love the platform adjustment on the Minute/Tower, and I miss it on this bike. Pictures tomorrow...I promise...maybe. In the meantime, look at MartinUK's YSSS and imagine it in black...without the bling cranks and pedals.


just curious...have you considered running a forward components EBB so you can ditch that tensioner? or are those cranks not external BB...looks like the answer is 'no'.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

wyatt79m: she do look mean, don't she. She has no sympathy for the weak and flabby, so I will need to earn her respect.

Jeffw-13: Do Jedis kill schit? Does the Pope wear a funny hat? You bringing the Chumba? 

Frorider: The tensioner seems like way less of a pain in the ass than the FC EBB. I am still committed to square taper BBs, because that's whats in the parts bin. This bike was pieced together from the bloody remains of another bike, which itself was pieced together from the remains of my first SS. The cranks date back to 1996.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.
Can someone tell me something good other than the GEOMETRY of the Yelli?!?!?!


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## el-cid (May 21, 2004)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.
> Can someone tell me something good other than the GEOMETRY of the Yelli?!?!?!


You can see the welds in this thread and on their website. I haven't held one of these frames but had a Formula 1 and it was as nice as any other top of the line downhill bike I've seen. I'm not sure who you're talking to about customer service but the only time I needed anything I picked up the phone and called and talked directly to Lance (I think). They sent out what I needed that day for free. Top quality guys! Frankly you can't get this same frame from anyone else except a custom builder right now.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.


My experience has been the exact opposite on all three points.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

This will be fun......









Canfield brothers are in this thread, directly providing support. So much for the poor customer service.

What bike was the person trying to sell you who said those things?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Jeffw-13: Do Jedis kill schit? Does the Pope wear a funny hat? You bringing the Chumba?


Not sure yet. If it was today it would be the Yelli cuz it's shiny & new. Threw my 26" wheelset on the Chumba & took it to Ray's MTB Park in Cleveland a few weeks ago. It was perfect for that. :thumbsup:


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.
> Can someone tell me something good other than the GEOMETRY of the Yelli?!?!?!


Who ever told you that must have been knocked in the head by the Supermoon. :bluefrown:

For the record, Canfield, Niner and Banshee are all made in the same Taiwan factory.


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## schizz (Nov 28, 2010)

Alot of people have been told alot of things.. So I've only got a couple of rides on my Yelli, it handles crazy good. Welds, I dont have an x-ray but they look solid and clean, I have only had contact with Chris Canfield and the dude was super responsive and very nice. I had my bike built at an LBS but went through a couple before deciding and put them each in contatct with the Canfield Bros and they all came away impressed at how accessible they make themselves to customers. Great bikes, nice guys, they ride these themselves so I don't think they would compromise quality with the type of riding they do and expect out of their bikes. My 2 cents


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

geolover said:


> Who ever told you that must have been knocked in the head by the Supermoon. :bluefrown:
> 
> They purchased one of the frames and the rear triangle was bent and Canfield wouldnt replace it unless he paid for it...It was brand new out of the box never ridden.
> 
> For the record, Canfield, Niner and Banshee are all made in the same Taiwan factory.


Copy that...


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.
> Can someone tell me something good other than the GEOMETRY of the Yelli?!?!?!


I find this hard to believe, my experience has been nothing less that steller. I have only dealt with Chris, but he has been prompt to answer emails and phone calls and has gone way beyond what I would have expected.

And as for the welds, they look good to me.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either.


Welds on my yelli are at least as good as those on turners, Titus and banshee frames I have owned.

The Yelli rides awesome. That's what counts. Appearance of the welds makes almost no difference in strength or ride quality


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Call them..... you will talk to either Chris or Lance. They are extremely helpful and most importantly passionate and skilled riders. They ride what they sell, and if it holds up for them.........The weld quality thing??? Look at the pics, they provide very nice frames. I really can't see being dissapointed with quality or customer service.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

Yea i have had nothing but a great experience with Canfields cs, when i called and ordered my YS i think i got Chris's cell phone and after hours (i think) yet he spent about 30-45 min. with me answering all my questions and then some (maybe because my name is Chris as well haha) also the welds appear to be top notch and feel confident if something was to happen they would take care of it.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

pcupach said:


> I was told today that the Canfield welds were not that great and the overall quality of the frame was not that great either. Then on top of all that the customer service was LESS than to be Desired.
> Can someone tell me something good other than the GEOMETRY of the Yelli?!?!?!


Which bike was this person trying to sell you? Or which bike was he/she riding? Canfield's have been awesome in answering my questions over the past 3 months, and I haven't even purchased my frame yet. They also offered me a discount after I missed out on the demo frames they were selling a couple months back. pcupach, if you're not trolling, customer service is great. Oh, and I don't expect production bike welds to rival Moots.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

*Im going for the Canfield Yelli*



bluestatevirgin said:


> Which bike was this person trying to sell you? Or which bike was he/she riding? Canfield's have been awesome in answering my questions over the past 3 months, and I haven't even purchased my frame yet. They also offered me a discount after I missed out on the demo frames they were selling a couple months back. pcupach, if you're not trolling, customer service is great. Oh, and I don't expect production bike welds to rival Moots.


Im not lurking Im just asking some questions about the brand and CSR. 
I just spoke with a Canfield sponsored rider and he convinced me that Canfields are rock solid.

I also heard the rest of the story...I TAKE IT ALL BACK THE CUSTOMER SERVICE & QUALITY OF THE BIKE/BRAND IS AWESOME:thumbsup: 
I AM SERIOUS.:thumbsup:

Sorry for any OTB remarks
Ok Im sold Im getting a Canfield


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

pcupach said:


> I also heard the rest of the story...


It was the supermoon, wasn't it?


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

geolover said:


> It was the supermoon, wasn't it?


I dont know who the supermoon is ...and it doesnt matter much at this point.

Because I got the other side of the story from a friend that rides Canfields ; when he could just as eaily ride other brands.:eekster:


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> Yea i have had nothing but a great experience with Canfields cs, when i called and ordered my YS i think i got Chris's cell phone and after hours (i think) yet he spent about 30-45 min. with me answering all my questions and then some (maybe because my name is Chris as well haha) also the welds appear to be top notch and feel confident if something was to happen they would take care of it.


After all of your inputs and reviews.....:thumbsup: 
I made the leap of faith and purchased a black XL Yelli-Screamy

I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the Paradox that I never expected to hear.

Lance Thanks for the honsety...that was the lever that pushed me over the edge to buy your bike.

The OLD BEAT DOWN Jamis Dakota 29er frame is going into the recycle bin (bent rear triangle)....
Now I need to find a FOX 29 120mm 15mm T/A that isnt going to break the bank:eekster:


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## Ronnie (Jan 17, 2004)

pcupach said:


> I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the Paradox that I never expected to hear.


I'd like to know what that means.

Ronnie.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

pcupach said:


> After all of your inputs and reviews.....:thumbsup:
> I made the leap of faith and purchased a black XL Yelli-Screamy
> 
> I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the Paradox that I never expected to hear.
> ...


About time you pulled the trigger on something. :thumbsup: As for the fork I think the Sport Systems had one on sale here recently.

I've been supper stoked with the new Reba and 20mm TA, but then again I have yet to try a fox with a true TA. Fox on the SS is just a 9mm bolt.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Ronnie said:


> I'd like to know what that means.
> 
> Ronnie.


No worries, Pcupach is just making friends where ever he goes.


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## occva (Sep 16, 2010)

I would liketo hear about the Paradox.




I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the Paradox that I never expected to hear.


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## Ronnie (Jan 17, 2004)

occva said:


> I would liketo hear about the Paradox.
> 
> I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the *Paradox* that I never expected to hear.


That is what I was referring to.

Ronnie.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

*Ethics*



occva said:


> I would liketo hear about the Paradox.
> 
> I spoke with Lance this morning and he provided some great insight and honest feedback about the Paradox that I never expected to hear.


He gave me his viewpoints on the Paradox and the type of ride I would experience. 
Not many people will say good things about other bikes and Lance did:thumbsup: ...Honesty is the first principle of Ethics.

When Lance did that I knew the Canfield was the company I wanted to put my $$ into.

Can anyone name the second principle?...Hint there are 8 universally accepted ethical principles...of course depending on the Google search results you may get more or less...


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

crux said:


> No worries, Pcupach is just making friends where ever he goes.


Yep...No worries...Looks like I found a serious following for the Canfield brand.
Im sure Ill be happy with their advice and inputs.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Anybody got a real good picture of the frame in gold? MartinUK has the best pic I've seen, but still not great. Got to order either gold or silver, and for now I'm thinking silver. I'm odering on 3/22/11 for sure, and I wouldn't mind being convinced that gold is the best of the two options.

Oh, and will the FSA gravity sxe tapered headset work with a tapered Reba Team fork?


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

bluestatevirgin said:


> I wouldn't mind being convinced that gold is the best of the two options.


Gold has gotta be best. Gold medal first place, silver second. :crazy:


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Yeah, I'm gonna go with gold. I must admit...the gold kinda looks ugly in pics. I also must admit...I kind of like that.

Edit added: Sloclaus, I know it's just a color, and subjective, but the gold really doesn't photograph well. With the silver, I'd know exactly what I was getting. FYI: gold ordered.

Also, I think I figured out that the gravity sxe headset will work (edit #2: Wrong. Gravity SXE won't work with tapered steer fork. Only 1 1/8. It's the Gravity DX pro for tapered steer. Costs the same as the Cane Creek. How confusing for a newb. Not even sure I got it figured yet). Reading back through all the headset posts twisted my mind up a bit, and I got confused as to what to get to go with my tapered Reba.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Yeah, I'm gonna go with gold. I must admit...the gold kinda looks ugly in pics. I also must admit...I kind of like that.


It's not a super blingy gold, and in person, it's not ugly.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

the charger pro wheelset arrived. very nice wheels for the money. haven't yet installed the reverb post. 1 X 10 XT drivetrain, Formula RX brakes, 180 mm XT cranks, 720 mm Answer carbon pro taper bars, 70 mm Chromag Ranger stem (nice and stiff), Chromag Lynx DT saddle, 2.4 Exo Ardents, prerunner pedals.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Frorider: now that's a decent build. It's like a colorful surface-to-air missile. Cheerful, but at the same time intimidating...like Andre the Giant (RIP). Enjoy.

Perhaps you and the rest of the YS brotherhood can help me with an admittedly mild problem. I have BB7s 185/160 on my YS and they seem to work just fine. I am, however, hydro curious (not THAT hydro, I am no longer curious about that). I dig the notion that if you are going to step up from properly set up BB7s, you might as well seek a set of brakes that deliver better power AND modulation to make it worth your while. I'm stuck on the Hayes Stroker Aces. They look good, stop well by all accounts, and are the most affordable 4-pot option for me. Am I retarded for wanting to put these on my YS for all around aggressive trail riding? Have any other recommendations (I can't afford more than $300 on this upgrade...believe me if I could afford Formula R1s I would never have posted this). I post this here because we all have a love for All-Mountain 29ers in common, at the very least. Fire at will..


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

buddhak said:


> Frorider: now that's a decent build. It's like a colorful surface-to-air missile. Cheerful, but at the same time intimidating...like Andre the Giant (RIP). Enjoy.
> 
> Perhaps you and the rest of the YS brotherhood can help me with an admittedly mild problem. I have BB7s 185/160 on my YS and they seem to work just fine. I am, however, hydro curious (not THAT hydro, I am no longer curious about that). I dig the notion that if you are going to step up from properly set up BB7s, you might as well seek a set of brakes that deliver better power AND modulation to make it worth your while. I'm stuck on the Hayes Stroker Aces. They look good, stop well by all accounts, and are the most affordable 4-pot option for me. Am I retarded for wanting to put these on my YS for all around aggressive trail riding? Have any other recommendations (I can't afford more than $300 on this upgrade...believe me if I could afford Formula R1s I would never have posted this). I post this here because we all have a love for All-Mountain 29ers in common at the very least. Fire at will..


HOPE!....doesnt get much better than that... although i havent used 4pots that havent felt grabby....


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Out of my (current) price range...although I admit that I've spilled much drool at their website, despite the atrocious web design.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I've been a huge fan of Magura since my first pair of HS33 rim brakes over 15 years ago. I've used the Martas and Louise over the years and would highly recommend either. You wont be able to pick up the Martas for $300 but you could easily find the Louise for much less, and they are a very solid brake.

I've also used the Shimano XT's and had very good luck with them.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Frorider: now that's a decent build. It's like a colorful surface-to-air missile. Cheerful, but at the same time intimidating...like Andre the Giant (RIP). Enjoy.
> 
> Perhaps you and the rest of the YS brotherhood can help me with an admittedly mild problem. I have BB7s 185/160 on my YS and they seem to work just fine. I am, however, hydro curious (not THAT hydro, I am no longer curious about that). I dig the notion that if you are going to step up from properly set up BB7s, you might as well seek a set of brakes that deliver better power AND modulation to make it worth your while. I'm stuck on the Hayes Stroker Aces. They look good, stop well by all accounts, and are the most affordable 4-pot option for me. Am I retarded for wanting to put these on my YS for all around aggressive trail riding? Have any other recommendations (I can't afford more than $300 on this upgrade...believe me if I could afford Formula R1s I would never have posted this). I post this here because we all have a love for All-Mountain 29ers in common, at the very least. Fire at will..


[RIGHT
Tru the formula K18 or K24. I have formula and bb7. Both are grea brakes [/RIGHT]


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

buddhak said:


> Frorider: now that's a decent build. It's like a colorful surface-to-air missile. Cheerful, but at the same time intimidating...like Andre the Giant (RIP). Enjoy.
> 
> Perhaps you and the rest of the YS brotherhood can help me with an admittedly mild problem. I have BB7s 185/160 on my YS and they seem to work just fine. I am, however, hydro curious (not THAT hydro, I am no longer curious about that). I dig the notion that if you are going to step up from properly set up BB7s, you might as well seek a set of brakes that deliver better power AND modulation to make it worth your while. I'm stuck on the Hayes Stroker Aces. They look good, stop well by all accounts, and are the most affordable 4-pot option for me. Am I retarded for wanting to put these on my YS for all around aggressive trail riding? Have any other recommendations (I can't afford more than $300 on this upgrade...believe me if I could afford Formula R1s I would never have posted this). I post this here because we all have a love for All-Mountain 29ers in common, at the very least. Fire at will..


I was getting ready to order a set of ace stroker's for my Nomad a while ago but decided to give the formula rx's a try and could not be happier with them.

I am running a set of juicy three's on my YS now because i had them but will soon be ordering another set of rx's for that as well.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> I was getting ready to order a set of ace stroker's for my Nomad a while ago but decided to give the formula rx's a try and could not be happier with them.
> 
> I am running a set of juicy three's on my YS now because i had them but will soon be ordering another set of rx's for that as well.


The Formula RXs were on the original build list, but CFO ire forced the BB7 recycling. The Deore m595s look like a cost effective back-up, though. I am starting to see that 4-pots are overkill as I do some more snooping.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

buddhak said:


> The Formula RXs were on the original build list, but CFO ire forced the BB7 recycling. The Deore m595s look like a cost effective back-up, though. I am starting to see that 4-pots are overkill as I do some more snooping.


Who wears the pants in your family?:eekster: 
I understand your position.
I don't know how big the hills are where you ride.....(as in the Rockies are very different from Kansas)
But I threw Juicey 3's on my Yelli ( had them sitting on the ex girlfriends bike).You can find then super cheap. Once bled and set up...they work as good as anything....and I have Hope X2Races on my main bike. I have had Maguras, Hope, Juicy Ult and 7's and Shimano XTR..they are all a little different, but if set up correctly...all work well.
I'm a 170lb Xc guy in New England...and I run 160/140 rotors..and don't need anything more than what I have.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

buddhak, I've owned / own pretty much all disc brake brands (magura, avid, hope, hayes, etc) and by far Formula brakes are the best overall in my experience. I'm currently running The Ones on my DH bike, One FR on my AM bike, RX's on my Freeride bike, and older K24 Oros on some XC bikes.

The RX is the value champion. For $300 (mtn high cyclery), you can get F/R Rx's complete with rotors and adaptors. Great power and modulation, and the reliability advantage over the competition.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

btw, there's nothing magical about 4 pot brakes. a well-designed one piece caliper provides the stiffness where it matters. check out bikeradar.com's disc brake tests --- The Ones and Saints are the power champions, with everything else down on the list. 

Hope manages to make DH brakes that are much heavier than the competition, with less stopping power, and only equivalent modulation. However my Hope brakes do look nice with their CNC work, which for some outweighs Hope's mediocre brake engineering skills. :wink:


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Have you seen the brake deals going on bikewagon.com? Some older XTs are going dirt cheap. Some hayes strokers too. Also, competitivecyclist has been selling some XTRs out at $95 for everything but rotors. Check their component sale list. I see them about once per week, and they're up for 24 hours and then gone.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Not a big shimano fan, but I have a set of slx's that are really impressive. I've ridden lots of cheap hydros and these are the best cheap brake (in my opinion of course). They can be had for about $200 I think. They feel as good as my juicy 7's and stronger than my strokers and are quiet as well. I almost ordered another pair for my yelli build, but in the end I ordered hopes, just for the bling...


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Thanks guys. You have been a great sounding board as usual.

@Mayor: Nobody wears pants here. We are fecund nudists with a seize the day mentality. Besides, stable relationships depend on power sharing, and I don't want to die alone.

@bluestatevirgin: thanks for the lead

@Frorider: The RX deal versus m595...I have to meditate during my Jedi exercises and make my selection.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

buddhak said:


> @Mayor: Nobody wears pants here. We are fecund nudists with a seize the day mentality. Besides, stable relationships depend on power sharing, and I don't want to die alone.


Pantless here in the Mayoral palace.
I will die alone....my bare assed rotten corpse will be found by bill collectors.
This is the price I pay for having nice toys.


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Another RX fan here=) Can't think of anything bad to say at the moment...


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

the mayor said:


> Pantless here in the Mayoral palace.
> I will die alone....my bare assed rotten corpse will be found by bill collectors.
> This is the price I pay for having nice toys.


You make a compelling case...and you paint a disturbing picture. Respect.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

pcupach said:


> Now I need to find a FOX 29 120mm 15mm T/A that isnt going to break the bank:eekster:


Saw this & thought of you

http://cgi.ebay.com/2010-Fox-Fit-32-F29-RL-120MM-15QR-Tapered-Fork-29er-/280649170288?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4157fe7d70


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Before pic:


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

OldHouseMan said:


> I'm patiently waiting for the new order of frames to come in and jump on one of the new colors. Still need to get a couple things and I'm pretty sure I will be going with the Cane Creek Angleset Headset. Are any of you using the angleset or thinking about going this way?


When are the new colors coming in?


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

*Cane Creek Angleset headset*

I'm patiently waiting for the new order of frames to come in and jump on one of the new colors. Still need to get a couple things and I'm pretty sure I will be going with the Cane Creek Angleset Headset. Are any of you using the angleset or thinking about going this way?


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

OldHouseMan said:


> I'm patiently waiting for the new order of frames to come in and jump on one of the new colors. Still need to get a couple things and I'm pretty sure I will be going with the Cane Creek Angleset Headset. Are any of you using the angleset or thinking about going this way?


I'm impatiently waiting for the tapered steerer Angleset to come out. I like the slackness of my Yelli running at 140mm, I just don't care for all the pogo-ing around. I think Angleset + 120mm = win!


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

OldHouseMan said:


> I'm patiently waiting for the new order of frames to come in and jump on one of the new colors. Still need to get a couple things and I'm pretty sure I will be going with the Cane Creek Angleset Headset. Are any of you using the angleset or thinking about going this way?


I thought about waiting on the new colors, but last I read from the Canfields the frames would be out maybe by June. However, one thing I've learned in my time here on the boards is that bikes almost never come in on time. Nature of the biz. I didn't want to miss most the summer of riding just for a color, so I ordered mine and will be riding it soon. Besides the small, I think the Canfields still have all sizes in some color or the other.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

What are the color choices


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

geolover said:


> I'm impatiently waiting for the tapered steerer Angleset to come out. I like the slackness of my Yelli running at 140mm, I just don't care for all the pogo-ing around. I think Angleset + 120mm = win!


The angleset for tapered steerers is listed on the Cane Creek web site and I've seen it at a few web retailers but not in stock.



bluestatevirgin said:


> I thought about waiting on the new colors, but last I read from the Canfields the frames would be out maybe by June. However, one thing I've learned in my time here on the boards is that bikes almost never come in on time. Nature of the biz. I didn't want to miss most the summer of riding just for a color, so I ordered mine and will be riding it soon. Besides the small, I think the Canfields still have all sizes in some color or the other.


I was told June at the earliest for the new colors.



pcupach said:


> What are the color choices


I was told by Chris as long as the anodizing turns out, the colors will be Orange, Black, and Wasabi (Green).


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

i want a wasabi but i dont want to wait untill june...... agh....


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

pcupach said:


> What are the color choices


My silver one should be here today:drumroll:


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

geolover said:


> I'm impatiently waiting for the tapered steerer Angleset to come out. I like the slackness of my Yelli running at 140mm, I just don't care for all the pogo-ing around. I think Angleset + 120mm = win!


Geolover, PM me if you really want one of those anglesets. I think I might have a line on one.


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## supramk388 (Mar 6, 2007)

pcupach said:


> My silver one should be here today:drumroll:


and... pics???


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

my frame is meant to be heading to the UK - if it ever gets sent :madmax:


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Hallo, anybody with a Lefty Max on his Yelly Screamy? would the 510mm (or 515?) a/c be too short? again, anybody with a 510mm a/c fork on his Yelly?


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

savo said:


> Hallo, anybody with a Lefty Max on his Yelly Screamy? would the 510mm (or 515?) a/c be too short? again, anybody with a 510mm a/c fork on his Yelly?


You can run anywhere from 100mm to 120mm fork on the Yelli so 510/515mm is in the compatible range:thumbsup:


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Well, I finally got my Yelli finished and taken out for a five hour shake down today. I love the bike :thumbsup: , I decided I really like Hope brakes, I was also pretty impressed with the Marzocchi , if it holds up, it's a great value. The Joplin 4 sucks, it lasted an hour before it quit working. I love the Loaded wheelset, the bars are way to wide for me at 790, i'll be chopping about 3/4 inch off per side. It was a great ride, and the bike is a keeper. It rails through rock gardens, and is super fast on the downs. Sorry in advance for all the pics, I couldn't help it...


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

nice build!


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

thanks, took me a loooong time.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

sucks to hear that the joplin **** the bed after only an hour.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Yeah, I was really disappointed, I thought they had them sorted out now ? I'm gonna call them and see what they have to say ?
Well, I pulled it apart and cleaned and regreased it and cycled it up and down about 40 times, it seems to be working now.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

My Yelli Screamy arrived last night!...Ill post pictures as soon as I get it built up.

It looks like a great frame...Quality of the welds and paint are top notch!
Right now Im going to xfr parts from my dead Jamis Dakota 29er and install the new goodies to start the build. I anticipate it will take me about 2 weeks to build it up becasue I have to build 2 wheels and find a headset to really get the bike rolling. Everything else is plug and play.

XL Silver...new
XT crankset...new
BB7 brakes...xfr
Reba 29 RLT Ti 120 20mm T/A...new (Non tapered tube)
Hope Pro 2 20mm TA front hub...new
DT Swiss 340 rear hub...xfr
Thompson seat post...xfr
WTB saddle...xfr
Race Face Atlas FR bars...new
Time ROC pedals...new
Stans Flow rims....xfr
X9 RD...xfr
XT direct mount FD...new
X9 twist grip shifters...xfr
Rampage (new) and Mtn King (xfr) tires...(yes Ill run them tubeless on the Flows)

Right now the only real issue is building the wheels and finding a headset...Anyone have a lead on where I can get one?


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

pcupach said:


> My Yelli Screamy arrived last night!...Ill post pictures as soon as I get it built up.
> 
> It looks like a great frame...Quality of the welds and paint are top notch!
> Right now Im going to xfr parts from my dead Jamis Dakota 29er and install the new goodies to start the build. I anticipate it will take me about 2 weeks to build it up becasue I have to build 2 wheels and find a headset to really get the bike rolling. Everything else is plug and play.
> ...


I am running the identical fork as you on my YS and went with this one.

http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store.cfm?do=DetailProduct&productid=99613


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

So I'm ordering the last few parts for my Yelli build, and I'm stuck in a newb + weird-parts quandry. I'm running a Raceface Next LP 94/58bcd crank cause I got one cheap, plus a 30t & old 29t middle ring. I'm going to go 1x9 with the 29t ring just for giggles and save the 30t for backup. To keep the chain from dropping, I have the following options. First, I could go with the MRP direct mount 1x, but it's hard to find, and is specified as shimano compatible. I don't know if it will adapt to the small ring and the non-shimano crank. Next, I'd love to run a bashwhich, but I've read there is no way to run an inside guard on the Yelli's tight tolerances. But I wonder if a 5 arm inside bash bash is smaller due to 58bcd vs. 64bcd? For another option, I can't tell if the Paul chainkeeper will work because of the Yelli's seat tube angle. Lastly, one simple, cheap solution I can think of is to run a BBG outer bash, and then buy the $10 direct mount XT der. from Jenson, and use the XT as a chain keeper, which would be inelegant.

So anybody running a 98/54 on the Yelli, or does anybody have some advice on this situation?


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

Did anyone notice the Canfield website has the price listed at $1000???


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

bluestatevirgin said:


> So I'm ordering the last few parts for my Yelli build, and I'm stuck in a newb + weird-parts quandry.
> 
> So anybody running a 98/54 on the Yelli, or does anybody have some advice on this situation?


Of the options you mentioned, I'd go with the MRP direct mount 1x. They only say it's shimano becuase shimano owns the patent on the FD mount design (which canfield uses)- it has nothing to do with what crankset.

I am running a 30t with MRP lopes guide, and you are correct, no room for anything in between the chainring and chanistay yoke.

You could run the $10 shimano f. der with bashguard as option #2.

Raceface Next LP 94/58bcd crank will be sweet for the 29'er! 104bcd and the newer 2x10 options suck for running smaller chainrings.


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## bigmat2000 (Nov 13, 2006)

*another headset question*

I searched and read, but I still don't know what headset I need. I will be running a tapered fox fork. CB says 44mm upper and 49.6mm lower but I don't see any lower cups listed as 49.6. Help please, my frame is almost here.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

DFYFZX said:


> Did anyone notice the Canfield website has the price listed at $1000???


I noticed that too...


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

DFYFZX said:


> Did anyone notice the Canfield website has the price listed at $1000???


Whoa! You're right.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I got $650 on the website ?


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

You have to add it to your cart and select USA and it changes to $650


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> So I'm ordering the last few parts for my Yelli build, and I'm stuck in a newb + weird-parts quandry. I'm running a Raceface Next LP 94/58bcd crank cause I got one cheap, plus a 30t & old 29t middle ring. I'm going to go 1x9 with the 29t ring just for giggles and save the 30t for backup. To keep the chain from dropping, I have the following options. First, I could go with the MRP direct mount 1x, but it's hard to find, and is specified as shimano compatible. I don't know if it will adapt to the small ring and the non-shimano crank. Next, I'd love to run a bashwhich, but I've read there is no way to run an inside guard on the Yelli's tight tolerances. But I wonder if a 5 arm inside bash bash is smaller due to 58bcd vs. 64bcd? For another option, I can't tell if the Paul chainkeeper will work because of the Yelli's seat tube angle. Lastly, one simple, cheap solution I can think of is to run a BBG outer bash, and then buy the $10 direct mount XT der. from Jenson, and use the XT as a chain keeper, which would be inelegant.
> 
> So anybody running a 98/54 on the Yelli, or does anybody have some advice on this situation?


I've seen the MRP direct mount chainguide on Chris's YS and it is very clean. Without a doubt, I'd go the cheap route for now, then get the MRP chainguide when it becomes available.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

bigmat2000 said:


> I searched and read, but I still don't know what headset I need. I will be running a tapered fox fork. CB says 44mm upper and 49.6mm lower but I don't see any lower cups listed as 49.6. Help please, my frame is almost here.


You have to be very careful with this because there are a number of configurations via Cane Creek that will fool you. There are 49.6 lowers that say 1.5, but are actually for non-tapered forks. Make sure the headset is tapered compatible. Cane Creek named the uppers with 44 in the name, and the lowers with 49 in the name in order to clear up confusion--I guess--but many of the online retailers don't list this. If you see ZS44, it means Zero Stack 44mm, etc... Also Gravity makes a tapered steer headset that works, and it's called the Gravity DX Pro. The trick is finding them configured in 44/49. I have seen them, but I don't remember where. Tree Fort Bikes, Outside Outfitters, and Universal all have a version that will work. To be safe, call before you order.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

frorider said:


> the charger pro wheelset arrived. very nice wheels for the money. haven't yet installed the reverb post. 1 X 10 XT drivetrain, Formula RX brakes, 180 mm XT cranks, 720 mm Answer carbon pro taper bars, 70 mm Chromag Ranger stem (nice and stiff), Chromag Lynx DT saddle, 2.4 Exo Ardents, prerunner pedals.


hmmm...something about this build. I normally don't like white rims but I may have to copy this one.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

FM said:


> Of the options you mentioned, I'd go with the MRP direct mount 1x. They only say it's shimano becuase shimano owns the patent on the FD mount design (which canfield uses)- it has nothing to do with what crankset.
> 
> I am running a 30t with MRP lopes guide, and you are correct, no room for anything in between the chainring and chanistay yoke.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Between your information and what Oldhouseman mentioned about the cheap option, I think I'm just going to go with the XT der. and live with the look. Gives me some flexibility if I decide to update cranks and run more gears--though I wouldn't have to on my local trails. The MRP 1x is selling at $70. Hard to justify for a duffer like me. Once it's our for awhile and some competitors come out, the sales will start, and I'll get one at a much better price. FM, I saw your set-up. It's sweet.


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

now the wait begins....waiting for new colors


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Can anybody tell me if this is the right lower cup for a tapered-steer fork on the Yelli:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HS263A00-Cane+Creek+40+Zs+Lower+Headset.aspx

I mean the 11/8 to1.5 version.

Edit: Got my answer. So after calling Jenson, and a couple other online retailers, and talking to Lance C., I still felt a bit confused, so I called Cane Creek directly. They don't make a Zero Stack lower for a tapered-steer fork. Lance was exactly right about that. Online retailers...not so right. So you can get the ZS44 upper, but you have to use the EC49/40 lower with this part #:BAA0091K. If you want to order a complete headset for a tapered-steer fork, you can get the Gravity DX Pro tapered in 44/49 for between $60 & $70.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

HVskier said:


> hmmm...something about this build. I normally don't like white rims but I may have to copy this one.


yeah, i've avoided white rims in the past. Guitar Ted's review of the wheels spotlighted the garish graphics as a potential issue for some, but didn't mention that in a few seconds the sticker graphics could be removed.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

pcupach said:


> My Yelli Screamy arrived last night!...Ill post pictures as soon as I get it built up.
> 
> It looks like a great frame...Quality of the welds and paint are top notch!
> Right now Im going to xfr parts from my dead Jamis Dakota 29er and install the new goodies to start the build. I anticipate it will take me about 2 weeks to build it up becasue I have to build 2 wheels and find a headset to really get the bike rolling. Everything else is plug and play.
> ...


First ride on the Y/S was pretty good. I like the HA. Im running a Rampage and AKA tubeless and I put the GEAX AKA on the backside and it seems to grip the trail pretty good. The REBA is a great fork compared to my FOX...It is plusher and smoother than the FOX. But this isnt about the forks...I didnt feel any frame flex so far...the trail was easy for the most part so I have yet to stress it out. I have to work the kinks out...I believe my stem is to long for the ATLAS bars...I'll probably go back to the El Norte bars and shorten the stem to 80 or 90...the BB7 brakes performed as normal,,,I'll upgrade them to a nice Formula set in the future, The bike weighs 28.09lbs


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

my yelli is on order, should be seeing it built up in the next couple weeks.


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## GPRider08 (Aug 22, 2008)

wyatt79m said:


> Well, I finally got my Yelli finished and taken out for a five hour shake down today. I love the bike :thumbsup: , I decided I really like Hope brakes, I was also pretty impressed with the Marzocchi , if it holds up, it's a great value. The Joplin 4 sucks, it lasted an hour before it quit working. I love the Loaded wheelset, the bars are way to wide for me at 790, i'll be chopping about 3/4 inch off per side. It was a great ride, and the bike is a keeper. It rails through rock gardens, and is super fast on the downs. Sorry in advance for all the pics, I couldn't help it...


Those blue wheels are pretty sweet, Wyatt. I can't tell, what are they?


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

GPRider08 said:


> Those blue wheels are pretty sweet, Wyatt. I can't tell, what are they?


Look in Wyatt's post...the part you quoted. The answer is there.


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

GPRider08 said:


> Those blue wheels are pretty sweet, Wyatt. I can't tell, what are they?


i am using those rims and spokes on my wheel build.
from what i understand it should come out to a stout mid weight wheel build.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

The wheels, bars and stem are all Loaded Components, loadedusa.com . They are great to deal with, and have some really nice stuff.


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## supramk388 (Mar 6, 2007)

pcupach said:


> First ride on the Y/S was pretty good. I like the HA. I didnt feel any frame flex so far...The bike weighs 28.09lbs


Can we hear more about the bike please??? Also do you have any pictures?


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

I built a L Yelli frame up a few days ago for a buddy. Then I went out and rode it!

Here's the email I sent to him later--he lives out of state right now:

Started with the fork at 140. I think you'll want to keep it there.
Solid and sporty geo, not too slack at all. BB height is good with it
at 140.


Super fun bike if you live where the speeds are slow and the trails
are chunky. The slack HTA and 140 fork just eat everything up. Point
and shoot.

Short stays make tech climbs a breeze. Keep your weight planted and
pedal--you'll probably make it up. Great traction seated or standing
with the wheel tucked up under you so far.


My only real gripes are, big surprise, that it's a hardtail.


Didn't notice the weight of the Alfine at all. Surprising. Shifting
is counterintuitive--reversed from what you're used to. If this is
the bike you ride all the time you'll get used to it after a few
rides. Super quiet when riding, easy shifting, super quiet when
coasting too. 


Nice to have zero chainslap. The ring is a 33, and the
cog is a 22. Seemed fine for top-end, but I think you'll probably
want better climbing gears. I could make everything I usually make,
but I think for all-day rides in the alpine you'll probably want lower.


Alfine chain tensioner doesn't work. Can't get chainline right with
it, and you have to physically unbolt it from the bike to get the
wheel out. Lame. Mined a dead SRAM rear der from the parts box and
customized it. Works perfect--easy to set chainline, easy to set
tension, light, and quiet. 


You probably wouldn't have built it with the post that I used, but
I'll leave it there for you to try.

* * *

Overall a really fun bike. Not my cup o' tea, but psyched to see the evolution of the genre continuing.

MC


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Nice build Mike. :thumbsup:

Couldn't agree more about leaving the fork at 140mm. Mine handles great with the Marz Bomber at 140 and really excels when I point it down hill. It also climbs like you describe. You'd think that with the short stays & tall fork it would be light up front on climbs but I've had no issues.



> Super fun bike if you live where the speeds are slow and the trails are chunky.


It also rocks in the fast twisty stuff. It rides like an XC bike on steroids. It's truly a Jekyll/Hyde bike


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

Mikesee, wouldn't that Alfine setup be cleaner if you used a forward components mini ebb BB and got rid of that dérailleur?


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

frorider said:


> Mikesee, wouldn't that Alfine setup be cleaner if you used a forward components mini ebb BB and got rid of that dérailleur?


Yep, that'd be cleaner for sure.

But t'aint my bike, and he was/is on a pretty tight budget. He may go that route in the future--especially if he has problems with this setup.

MC


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

Bump! :thumbsup:


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

mikesee said:


> Super fun bike if you live where the speeds are slow and the trails
> are chunky.
> 
> My only real gripes are, big surprise, that it's a hardtail.
> ...


The Yelli does very well at high speeds, and in the air too. It took me a dozen+ rides to really explore the capabilities and learn to trust it. I've hit plenty of black diamond stuff on mine and It's very confidence inspiring. OTOH, we dont have "chunk" here, we have "flow" instead...and slack hardtails can be great for "flow" trails.


----------



## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

FM said:


> The Yelli does very well at high speeds, and in the air too. It took me a dozen+ rides to really explore the capabilities and learn to trust it. I've hit plenty of black diamond stuff on mine and It's very confidence inspiring. OTOH, we dont have "chunk" here, we have "flow" instead...and slack hardtails can be great for "flow" trails.


That's a good point to make--thanks for clarifying.

We have roughly zero organic matter around, so the holes in our trails don't get filled in nor smoothed out. It's pretty jarring on a hardtail.

Not to say it can't be done--there are heaps of folks out there doing it. Just not my cup of tea.

If I lived where you do I'd probably be all over this bike. And if you lived here you'd likely want some rear squish.

Horses for courses, as they say.

Cheers,

MC


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

FM said:


> The Yelli does very well at high speeds, and in the air too. It took me a dozen+ rides to really explore the capabilities and learn to trust it. I've hit plenty of black diamond stuff on mine and It's very confidence inspiring. OTOH, we dont have "chunk" here, we have "flow" instead...and slack hardtails can be great for "flow" trails.


*Zzzzactly!*

Slack hardtails deliver.

We've got a pretty diverse array of terrain down here to choose from. There's plenty of stuff that will satiate even the most avid chunk-o-phile.

I have just as much fun riding those trails without all of the "float and bloat", drooper posting, and gear clanging drama.

I'm not suggesting that it's the only way to do it, or that it is the *best* way. Personal preference trumps internet IKE recommendation-athons at trails end, anyway.

*But.... *I do miss riding my squishy bike, at times.


----------



## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

It's taken me a while to get mine (UK) but worth the wait. Just ridden for a week in Scotland where I couldn't stop grinning! My one area of concern, climbing, was completely unfounded - climbed brilliantly. Well done Canfield :thumbsup:


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## GreenLightGo (Oct 24, 2006)

Clink - great setup. 120mm fork?


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

GreenLightGo said:


> Clink - great setup. 120mm fork?


Yep. See no reason to change. I use for more xc and thought I would possibly reduce to 100mm, but they'll be staying where they are.


----------



## TIGMAN (Nov 18, 2004)

bubba13 said:


> Bump! :thumbsup:


 Thanks for dat...........nice to see some stoke !  TIG.


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## bmw (Oct 13, 2005)

Picked my Yelli Screamy up Friday night and broke it in yesterday with a 6 hour race.

Canfield was great work with. They quickly responded to email questions before I bought the frame and were cool about working through my LBS. Excellent customer server. The frame is very high quality with consistent welds and finish. Amazing for the price.

I was slightly concerned about how the bike would climb but it turned out to be a nonissue. The front-end doesn't wander at all when spinning up steep sections and the rear doesn't loose traction when standing to push a big gear. It just keeps going and responds well to body english.

The build is pretty straightforward, nice reliable parts.

Pics:









Front Hub:









Rear Hub:









Graphics:









Who's a Good Bike:


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Nice build and dog


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

*Made some change.*

I decided to get rid of all the raceface stuff and make a few changes to my YS. here is a list of changes. the best i think is finally adding a adjustable post.
1) truvativ noir s.s. cranks
2) 30" deity bars
3) 50mm thomson x4 stem
4) KS offset post


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Clink said:


> It's taken me a while to get mine (UK) but worth the wait. Just ridden for a week in Scotland where I couldn't stop grinning! My one area of concern, climbing, was completely unfounded - climbed brilliantly. Well done Canfield :thumbsup:


Now that there is a happy bike. It looks ready to roam and frolic for hours in that beautiful wilderness.

And now for an update that nobody was particularly interested in: My SSYSand I have grown quite attached over the past month. My bunny hops improved overnight, and continue to improve...who knew shaving 3/4" off the chainstays could so alter the way a bike rides? When I remember to stay loose and OFF the brakes on downhills, the bike really rewards me with its lightning fast response to body english and steering input. The next step is a dropper seatpost to really bring this bike alive. I can imagine what a year on this bike would do to my riding style and abilities. Consider me turbo-stoked.


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

While I like a dropper seat post on my FS I find them to harsh on a hard tail when I have to sit and pedal

Nice looking build though. Wish I'd got the Sun Ringle wheels


----------



## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

MMcG said:


> Voodoo has a 500mm AC 29er fork available now.
> 
> 500mm AC height
> Steel
> ...


I would try it with a rigid fork. It would hafta be a pretty rough ride, though.

This is the first frame since I bought my '07 MCR9 that actually has me considering buying it. Mostly for the shorter CS's, but the fact that it sounds well-balanced, not twitchy, and is a good climber from all accounts (thanks to those who volunteered as guinea pigs) is very encouraging.

Very curious.

-F


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

martin_uk said:


> While I like a dropper seat post on my FS I find them to harsh on a hard tail when I have to sit and pedal


interesting. the diameter of the telescoping post portion is relatively narrow--why would you expect it to flex less than a large-diameter fixed post?


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Just checking in again... Anybody wanna sell a gold or silver small ?


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

frorider said:


> interesting. the diameter of the telescoping post portion is relatively narrow--why would you expect it to flex less than a large-diameter fixed post?


I don't understand why it is harsher but my experience with two different hardtails, two different seat posts and one dropper says it is.


----------



## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

frorider said:


> interesting. the diameter of the telescoping post portion is relatively narrow--why would you expect it to flex less than a large-diameter fixed post?


It probably depends on the particular model, but I would guess that the inner portion on a dropper post has a much larger wall thickness to compensate for the smaller diameter and maybe even to interface with parts of the dropping mechanism


----------



## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

martin_uk said:


> While I like a dropper seat post on my FS I find them to harsh on a hard tail when I have to sit and pedal
> 
> Nice looking build though. Wish I'd got the Sun Ringle wheels


Thanks :thumbsup: I am very happy with my wheel purchase - And as the post goes i could not wait to install one on my YS as i have fs bikes as well (all of which have dropper post) i tend to use this for everything from xc,commuting and even some light DH so i was stopping quite often to lower post so for me it was very beneficial.

Btw my YS is also great for pulling my son around in his trailer haha although i just finished putting together a 29" ss i will start using for this.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Finally got mine finished. Bought first part back in October 2010...the Reba. Long wait. Worth it.

Large Gold Yelli
Reba Team 20mm maxle, 120 travel, tapered.
Stans Flows, Hope Hubs, 36H
Salsa Whammy bar, 780mm
Ergon GX1 grips
Syncros AM stem
RaceFace Next LP cranks, 29T chainring, BBG bash
1x9 w/ Sram X9 shifter, Sram X9 short cage der, Sram 990 cassette
TLR Nobby Nic 2.35 front & 2.25 rear
Thompson post
WTB seat
Sunline V2 pedals


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

I just noticed my before build pic is post #666. FYI.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Hey bluestatevirgin, that is one heck of a nice build. Esp like the gold.

Hey for those of you who have the YS, I had a question regarding frame sizing. I am 5'7" with a 29-30 inch inseam. I know the standover is a bit better on the YS and would like to know what size frame you guys would recommend (Small or Medium)? 

Wanted to setup the bike w/ a 70mm stem and 120mm fork. According to Canfield's site, they have mediums in stock, but are not going to get smalls until June or so.

Any help would be appreciated. Oh yeah and if it matters, I currently ride a 17 inch Performance Access 29er, Specialized Stumpjumper 26 Medium, and Specialized Enduro Medium.

Thanks for any help!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Medium


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## MoustacheCashStash (Dec 6, 2010)

James12345 said:


> Hey for those of you who have the YS, I had a question regarding frame sizing. I am 5'7" with a 29-30 inch inseam. I know the standover is a bit better on the YS and would like to know what size frame you guys would recommend (Small or Medium)?


Does depend a bit on what kind of riding you will use it for. The TT on the medium (@ 23.75) could be a bit long IMHO, regardless of standover...although the slack "actual" seat angle will shorten it up at lower saddle heights.

A med with a 50mm stem, and a small with a 70mm stem, will be about the same cockpit length, but the shorter wheelbase of the small will handle tight corners better and make it easier to get the front end up. I think you'll be OK on a medium w/50mm stem, but a small might be worth the wait if you get your wheels off the ground often or really want the 70mm stem.

FWIW, I'm 5'-9" on a medium with a 50mm stem and 30" riser bars.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Nice. Sweet cranks - old school new school approach works well on the YS. No surprise. It's a hardtail after all.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Thank you for this bit of information, it is greatly appreciated.



MoustacheCashStash said:


> Does depend a bit on what kind of riding you will use it for. The TT on the medium (@ 23.75) could be a bit long IMHO, regardless of standover...although the slack "actual" seat angle will shorten it up at lower saddle heights.
> 
> A med with a 50mm stem, and a small with a 70mm stem, will be about the same cockpit length, but the shorter wheelbase of the small will handle tight corners better and make it easier to get the front end up. I think you'll be OK on a medium w/50mm stem, but a small might be worth the wait if you get your wheels off the ground often or really want the 70mm stem.
> 
> FWIW, I'm 5'-9" on a medium with a 50mm stem and 30" riser bars.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

buddhak said:


> Nice. Sweet cranks - old school new school approach works well on the YS. No surprise. It's a hardtail after all.


Thanks. Honestly, I prolly should singlespeed on my trails, but I'm old and out of shape. My riding is a lot of rolling hills. Climb 50-300 yards. Descend. Repeat over and over. I hardly shift. The 1x9 gives me a bit of flexibility, and the 29T chainring keeps me in the middle of my cassette a greater percentage of the time.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Finally got mine together, stem is not final but had to take pics before it gets muddy. Can't wait to ride it, its been an extremely wet spring.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

HVskier. Cool. Is that a 140mm Reba?


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Lookin good


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> HVskier. Cool. Is that a 140mm Reba?


Yeah, decided on the 140 to keep my options open a bit. Planned on reducing it to 120 right away but after some good feedback on 140 I figured I'd give it a go.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

HVskier said:


> Yeah, decided on the 140 to keep my options open a bit. Planned on reducing it to 120 right away but after some good feedback on 140 I figured I'd give it a go.


Let us know what you think after a few rides.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

I love mine at 140mm.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

HVskier said:


> Yeah, decided on the 140 to keep my options open a bit. Planned on reducing it to 120 right away but after some good feedback on 140 I figured I'd give it a go.


I have mine at 120mm and it rides great, even set up SS. 140mm shouldn't be a problem.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

wyatt79m said:


> I love mine at 140mm.


+1. mine rides fine at 140


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I'm just about to pull the trigger on either a Yelli or a Paradox. But with the burlier builds these bikes appear to have coupled with the frame material I'm worried the ride will be punishing up here in the rooty rocky NE. I'm on an aluminum SS On One Scandal now that feels pretty compliant but it's definitely not built as stout. I also need to run 2.4" Racing Ralphs or 2.4 Maxxis Ardents. How's tire clearance in the rear?


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

HVskier why did you go with Crest wheels? Seems like you would want Flows with this sort of bike.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Tyre clearance on Y-S is much better than the Paradox. Y-S, to me, also feels more comfortable at the back - perhaps to do with far more seatpost showing? Having ridden both I would go for the Y-S every time; longer tt, more standover, just rides 'better' (again to me!).


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

appleSSeed said:


> HVskier why did you go with Crest wheels? Seems like you would want Flows with this sort of bike.


I'm a weight weenie at heart that likes slack geometry, softer suspension and big tires. I'll get a little air from time to time but don't do much in the way of drops. I do like to go as fast as possible in rocks and roots so we'll see how it goes. Only weight about 160 and I have had pretty light wheels on my fs 26er for years with no issues. I did get a short ride in today and initial impressions are perfection.

On the issue of the ride harshness...I didn't get into anything really rooty today but did travel over plenty of them. It really didn't feel harsh at all. I haven't ridden an al ht in a long time but I did put a lot of miles in last season on a rigid cromo bike.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

slsl123 said:


> I'm just about to pull the trigger on either a Yelli or a Paradox. But with the burlier builds these bikes appear to have coupled with the frame material I'm worried the ride will be punishing up here in the rooty rocky NE. I'm on an aluminum SS On One Scandal now that feels pretty compliant but it's definitely not built as stout. I also need to run 2.4" Racing Ralphs or 2.4 Maxxis Ardents. How's tire clearance in the rear?


As you know from this thread, the Yelli has plenty of clearance for 2.4 ardent. Plenty.

The Yelli is more compliant than some have suggested. After all, it's not a heavy frame.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

frorider said:


> As you know from this thread, the Yelli has plenty of clearance for 2.4 ardent. Plenty.
> 
> The Yelli is more compliant than some have suggested. After all, it's not a heavy frame.


I should have been more specific. As others have mentioned tire clearance on the Yelli looks ample. I haven't heard if 2.4's will fit the Paradox though. Also, I'd like to run either bike SS most of the time. Any other gear combo's work on the Yelli other than 32 x 21 without a tensioner? Has anybody tried a BB mounted chainguide like a Blackspire stinger?

Good to hear that the ride isn't too harsh. I think a lot of that has to do with tire pressure anyway. That's why I run fatties.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

I'd also be interested on effective ways of setting Y-S up as ss - gears aren't doing it for me


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

slsl123 said:


> I should have been more specific. As others have mentioned tire clearance on the Yelli looks ample. I haven't heard if 2.4's will fit the Paradox though. Also, I'd like to run either bike SS most of the time. Any other gear combo's work on the Yelli other than 32 x 21 without a tensioner? Has anybody tried a BB mounted chainguide like a Blackspire stinger?
> 
> Good to hear that the ride isn't too harsh. I think a lot of that has to do with tire pressure anyway. That's why I run fatties.


I used to use a Stinger on my Paradox but that had ISCG mounts. So far my Yelli is happily running the magic 32x21 ratio. Not perfect, but totally acceptable. If I wanted to run anything else I'd probably go the White Eccentric Hub route


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfm...etch=0.00&axleAdjust=vert&sortKey=Stay_length

This may help in finding another ratio that may work.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

After three rides this week I really see no downside to the 140. Taken it on some of the steepest climbs we have and the front end is completely controllable, it just hovers. Of course you do need to move your weight around some. Taken it through some pretty tight switchbacks and turns and maneuverability is no problem. I may still try 120 for a comparison but it sure feels great how it is. 
I have mostly just been on our smoother trails so far, no real tech or chunky stuff yet. Loving the handling, it just wants to go faster. I must say these ardents are quite good too, they are really hooking up on the dry ground.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

Clink said:


> I'd also be interested on effective ways of setting Y-S up as ss - gears aren't doing it for me


as i've posted a number of times, people should consider a forward components mini-EBB if they want a clean single speed on a standard frame like the Yelli.


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## sanjuanswan (Aug 10, 2008)

frorider said:


> as i've posted a number of times, people should consider a forward components mini-EBB if they want a clean single speed on a standard frame like the Yelli.


Doesn't this require reducing the BB width to 68mm? Would that cause problems with converting back to gears later on?


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

sanjuanswan said:


> Doesn't this require reducing the BB width to 68mm? Would that cause problems with converting back to gears later on?


No, there are ways without modifying the frame. I can't remember the details off the top of my head, but it will fit with some cranks without any extra work needed and some cranks just need the granny mounting holes shaved down. Go with a spiderless setup and you should be golden


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

*Fork Question*

Hey Guys,

Building up a YS right now, actually in the process of gathering parts and will probably be ordering a frame once the new colors are out in June.

Used 2010 RS Reba 120mm w/ a tapered steerer and Maxle or New Manitou Tower Pro 29er 20mm TA? Both around the same price, what would you choose and why?

Thanks.


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## pcupach (Dec 14, 2007)

I finally got to ride the Y/S on some real ST this weekend. Tunnel and Otero Canyon New Mexico.... After owning several 29ers (FS and HT) I have to say this bike rocked! 
Im 6'3" 220lbs and Im riding a XL YS...I feel it is very nimble and flickable in any situation so far. Rolling around tight switchbacks was a breeze compared to other 29ers...it didnt have the SEMI TRUCK feeling. Dropping over/launching off rock ledges (1-3 feet high) seemed effortless in fact it felt like the bike wanted to fly more than drop. It required very little effort to get the front wheel off the ground when encountering obstacles just simply point, pull up on the bars and pedal. This doesnt mean it was a wheely king...it just means it was easy to go up and over obstacles during climbs and DH. Climbing was pretty nice also....I have a 70mm stem and 120 reba 20mm T/A...just move your weight fwd a bit and pedal. As for cornering it didnt have a single problem or issue..it cornered faster /tracked better than either RIP 9 v1/v2 or Jamis Dakota 29er or Ventana 69er
I found myself going faster on the DH than I wanted to without much effort...

The only drawbacks:
The cable routing on the right side always caught/scratched my leg a few times....I think I can fix that!
The Geax AKA did not hook very well when encountering smooth rock faces....I think I can fix that too...R2 tire.
I didnt have time to take pictures...I was riding! 
Now if they could make a FS 29er that feels like the YS that would be bike to pound out some miles on.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

*another happy customer*

here's my build. I chose the medium, I am 6'0, and put a 100mm stem.







using the perfect gear 32x21
threw on tubeless 2.4 ardents and plenty of clearance.








Initial build I had tubed 2.1 ignitor/crossmark for fruita riding and it was great.
Not so great for local riding and was concerned about feel of Al. I had an on-one scandal and even with tubeless 2.4 ardents and gravity dropper (gravity dropper flexes softening the ride) the thing felt harsh and vowed never to go Aluminum again on hardtail.

I bought this bike to check out the geometry and see if this was something along the lines of I'd want to get built custom in steel. Well after riding it a bit not sure if I'II need to get built in steel. I tend to ride long rides with lots of steep climbing and descending. Did 30ish miles w/ 7000ft of climbing yesterday, bike did great. Front end lifted a few times when stomping hard on the singlespeed climb, only noticed it cause people have posted what a concern this is to em. Bike ripped down the descent of one of the better technical descents along the Colorado Front Range the other day. Extremely pleased with this hardtail. Nice work Canfields.
oh yeah another reason I bought the bike was that cool pic of canfield with the eurobike chicks


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

m-dub said:


> http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfm...etch=0.00&axleAdjust=vert&sortKey=Stay_length
> 
> This may help in finding another ratio that may work.


Been playing around with Fix Me Up and have successfully installed a magic gear of 34x19. Nice and tight, but not too tight. The chain isn't new so might have a little stretch in it. According to Sheldon Browns gear calculator 34x19 is the same ratio as 32x18


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

martin_uk said:


> Been playing around with Fix Me Up and have successfully installed a magic gear of 34x19. Nice and tight, but not too tight. The chain isn't new so might have a little stretch in it. According to Sheldon Browns gear calculator 34x19 is the same ratio as 32x18


I'll have to try that!


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

I love the look of the Yelli Screamy with that maverick DC.....NICE bike. I cant wait to get mine. Im thinking medium, 1x10, flat pedals... We built up a medium YS the other day , 26lbs, 2x10 with DH pedals and good stout parts. 
New colors are going to be green, orange, and black (ano) with maybe some purples....Get your pre-order in to get your choice. Keep the pics coming !


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Hi , What size Yelli frame for me if I'm 176cm and I want to run a short stem and wide bars and a 120 mm fork?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

wobbem said:


> Hi , What size Yelli frame for me if I'm 176cm and I want to run a short stem and wide bars and a 120 mm fork?


I say Medium, and a 50mm stem. Get a really wide bar that has room to cut it down if needed.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Nice looking build. Like you I'm also coming off an On One Scandal and am concerned about the aluminum harshness. I'm also sold on the geometry but don't want to spend huge $$$ on custom without trying it first. I was leaning towards the Nimble 9 for the steel compliance but if the ride isn't too harsh I'd prefer the lighter weight and greater standover of the Yelli. Especially since I can run 32x21 or possibly 34x19 without tensioners!!!! Thanks for posting your thoughts on your new bike.


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

I'm having a hard time deciding on a new ride. It's between a 26er FS or a Yelli Screamy. I haven't put much time on a FS or a 29er but at some point soon I want to replace my 26er hardtail. The Yelli Screamy looks real good but the couple of times I rode FS were fun.


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

Any photos of the new colors?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

CGrr said:


> I'm having a hard time deciding on a new ride. It's between a 26er FS or a Yelli Screamy. I haven't put much time on a FS or a 29er but at some point soon I want to replace my 26er hardtail. The Yelli Screamy looks real good but the couple of times I rode FS were fun.


I haven't touched my Yeti 575 since I built my Yelli, except to clean it up to sell it.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

jeffw-13 said:


> I haven't touched my Yeti 575 since I built my Yelli, except to clean it up to sell it.


Poor Yeti.

Missed you at DirtFest, sir. I must have had the only Yelli Screamy in the place, because I was getting all kinds of attention. Now I know how Justin Beiber must feel...


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

buddhak said:


> Poor Yeti.
> 
> Missed you at DirtFest, sir. I must have had the only Yelli Screamy in the place, because I was getting all kinds of attention. Now I know how Justin Beiber must feel...


Ya I didn't make it. The group I was supposed to go with f'd around until the day before when a group of 3 finally decided to make the trip. I had already made other plans by then. :madman:


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Does anyone know if Canfield is taking pre-orders for YS? Really wanting a blk med frame.


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## yellowducman (Apr 18, 2010)

Finally, after 5 months I got my Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy done. This is my first 29er and I'm still not sure of the fit as the way it is set up I set more upright than I'm used to. Today is going to be the maiden voyage if it doesn't rain.Here's a couple of pics. I included one of my custom black and silver fox decal to match the bike.


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

mellowme17 said:


> Any photos of the new colors?


I spoke with one of the brothers on the phone and he said the colors will be the same as the Sram colored components. They are using the same company that Sram uses for the anodizing process.

Hope that helps. These should be some good looking frames.


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## dogss (Jul 17, 2010)

yellowducman, what size frame and how tall are you?


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## yellowducman (Apr 18, 2010)

dogss said:


> yellowducman, what size frame and how tall are you?


I'm 5'10" and mine is a medium.


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## dogss (Jul 17, 2010)

yellowducman said:


> I'm 5'10" and mine is a medium.


Thanks. I'm 5'10" and considering a medium as well. Hard to tell the smalls from the mediums in pics.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

yellowducman said:


> This is my first 29er and I'm still not sure of the fit as the way it is set up I set more upright than I'm used to.


I've been thinking that if I ever buy a 29er, at least one designed for a suspension fork, I might have to install a riser bar inverted to be comfortable with bar height :skep:


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

If it helps I'm 5'10" and ride a medium too.


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

perttime said:


> I've been thinking that if I ever buy a 29er, at least one designed for a suspension fork, I might have to install a riser bar inverted to be comfortable with bar height :skep:


Nope you'll be fine!


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

MMcG said:


> Nope you'll be fine!


On my current rigid 26" singlespeed, I have a 465 mm A to C fork (for bike geometry); and a short straight stem and a flat bar to get my hands where I like them. Add a bigger wheel in the front and I'll have to do something to get the bar lower. I don't think an inverted stem is enough, especially staying with shortish ones.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

dogss said:


> Thanks. I'm 5'10" and considering a medium as well. Hard to tell the smalls from the mediums in pics.


Also 5'10", also a medium


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

alexkraemer said:


> Also 5'10", also a medium


Yep, I'm 5'-9" on a medium with a 50mm stem and 1x30" riser bars.
Wouldn't want anything larger- top tube is comparable length to many other brands large frames, on paper.


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## schizz (Nov 28, 2010)

unposted


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## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

Yellowducman, Clink & Alexkraemer, what length seatpost & stem are you guys using?


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

hrdude said:


> Yellowducman, Clink & Alexkraemer, what length seatpost & stem are you guys using?


70mm stem and Thomson 410mm inline post

Might be experimenting with an 80mm stem shortly


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

stem data is meaningless w/o bar width data. just sayin'.

i'm not sure i posted this already, but i'm running 720 mm low-rise bars, a straight Reverb post, and a 0 degree 70 mm stem. 2 x 5 mm spacers uinder stem. just under 6'3".

really like this bike w/ the 120 Reba Ti and the 2.4 ardents. easily the most versatile hardtail i've ever ridden.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

frorider said:


> stem data is meaningless w/o bar width data. just sayin'.
> 
> i'm not sure i posted this already, but i'm running 720 mm low-rise bars, a straight Reverb post, and a 0 degree 70 mm stem. 2 x 5 mm spacers uinder stem. just under 6'3".
> 
> really like this bike w/ the 120 Reba Ti and the 2.4 ardents. easily the most versatile hardtail i've ever ridden.


OK 710mm flat bars, no stem spacers


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

hrdude said:


> Yellowducman, Clink & Alexkraemer, what length seatpost & stem are you guys using?


I had a 350mm, but it was too short. I put my 400mm Thudbuster on and that seems to be long enough. Stem - 100ish, with some Origin8 SpaceBar (OffRoad version), so alt bars that are offset.

I found the geometry of the bike to be pretty flexible because of the short chainstays. I.E. regardless of where the cockpit puts you up front, the bike feels balanced.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

*34x19?*

For those of you running 34x19 magic gear - how is that working out? I'm going to try singlespeeding my YS with either 32x21 or 34x19. I'd prefer 34x19 though.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

slsl123 said:


> For those of you running 34x19 magic gear - how is that working out? I'm going to try singlespeeding my YS with either 32x21 or 34x19. I'd prefer 34x19 though.


According to the calculator, 29x18 with a half-link is also a magic gear AND is roughly the same ratio as 32x20.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

slsl123 said:


> For those of you running 34x19 magic gear - how is that working out? I'm going to try singlespeeding my YS with either 32x21 or 34x19. I'd prefer 34x19 though.


I'd be interested too; 32x21 to low for me


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> According to the calculator, 29x18 with a half-link is also a magic gear AND is roughly the same ratio as 32x20.


Oh cool, with gained ground clearance. I'll have to note that.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

slsl123 said:


> For those of you running 34x19 magic gear - how is that working out? I'm going to try singlespeeding my YS with either 32x21 or 34x19. I'd prefer 34x19 though.


34/19 is running well, possibly better than 32x21 did. Just taking time for my legs to get re-accustomed to a bigger gear


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Ta da, have ordered a YS in black & medium today
Now a headset problem as living in the UK Part nos seem to be different.
I want to run my straight steerer 1"1/8 reba until next year when the new fox 34 comes out.Cane Creeek headset finder came out with this:
"Based on the information you have provided, your headset falls within the tapered standard and requires:

Top Headset:

SHIS:ZS44 - 1-1/8" ZeroStack (ZS) Threadless

Bottom Headset:

SHIS:EC49/30 - 1.5" Traditional to 1-1/8" Conversion

SHIS:ZS49/30 - 1.5" Traditional to 1-1/8" Conversion"

The Cane C UK supplier site comes up with these range of head sets but the part numbers are different from the US for some reason so I would be grateful if you could confirm my choice.

Here's the site
http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/list/Cane_Creek/Headset/

Here's the page with the suspect top
http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/detail/Cane_Creek/Headset/1961/
Part no BAA0060K ZS 1 1/8" Short ZS44/28.6 8mm 39.2g £19.99
OR
http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/detail/Cane_Creek/Headset/1959/
•BAA0079UD	ZS 1 1/8" Tall Carbon	ZS44/28.6	15mm	53g	£39.9

So the differance between these 2 is short and tall and price?

Here's the bottom , I think I got this right
http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/detail/Cane_Creek/Headset/1960/
BAA0088K	TR 1.5"-1 1/8" Flush Conv	ZS49/30	4mm	58g	£27.99
OR
•BAA0207K	TR 1 1/8"-1.5" Conv	EC49/30	12mm	99g	£34.99

Which is better out of these 2?

Many thanks
__________________
Don't think, BE

My Bikes


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## Evil Chocula (Jan 31, 2007)

wobbem said:


> derp derp derp derpandoodle doooo


Yes.


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

@Wobbem - I bought the XXc II Flush lower cup (the lower cups of this headset http://www.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp...utm_medium=GoogleProduct&utm_campaign=Froogle) and I like the lower stack height - makes for a slick integrated look and keeps the front end down


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Cheers, sounds good. No price , will have to see if available in UK
http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/detail/Cane_Creek/Headset/127/


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

wobbem said:


> Cheers, sounds good. No price , will have to see if available in UK
> http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/detail/Cane_Creek/Headset/127/


Wobbem - when I was shopping for a headset, it was cheaper for me to pick up a cheap ZS headset and just use the upper cup than buy just the upper cup from CC ($17 vs $30).


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Nice one:thumbsup:


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

I think I may head the 29er direction and the Yelli Screamy is looking good. Now that everybody has had a chance to really ride theirs what are the reports?


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

CGrr said:


> I think I may head the 29er direction and the Yelli Screamy is looking good. Now that everybody has had a chance to really ride theirs what are the reports?


I don't want to sound like a salesmen and type how it just plain rips in every aspect, but.....it just plain rips in every aspect. The geo is spot on and it loves to be pushed hard. If you need spcifics, just shoot.

Basically every ride consists of:     :thumbsup:


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

m-dub said:


> I don't want to sound like a salesmen and type how it just plain rips in every aspect, but.....it just plain rips in every aspect. The geo is spot on and it loves to be pushed hard. If you need spcifics, just shoot.
> 
> Basically every ride consists of:     :thumbsup:


not forgetting :eekster:

Quite simply a great ride.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I'll add a :cornut: to the above statements


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

CGrr said:


> I think I may head the 29er direction and the Yelli Screamy is looking good. Now that everybody has had a chance to really ride theirs what are the reports?


Took it for a SS ride in the mountains last week - tight twisties were no problem, lots 'o traction, best 29er frame I've ever had. As an added benefit, once you rock on the short chainstays, you'll never look at a bike with 17+ chainstays again (which is good for resisting the urge to buy something in carbon).

Pull the trigger, you won't regret it.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I'm 5'9" with a 30 inch inseam pant size and I'm currently riding a medium Santa Cruz Blur. The Yelli looks really interesting to me. But what size should I get? Comparing the effective top tube, the small Yelli has 23.00 ETT and the medium Blur has 22.5 ETT. 
So the small Yelli should fit me fine if I run a shorter stem right? Anyone has any ideas when they will get more small/black frames in stock?


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## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

I'm 6'1" and usually ride a 24.5 top tube. Went back and forth a few times on size. Ended up ordering an XL w 25.3 top tube on Chris's recommendation. We are similar in height and that is what he is riding (w 70mm stem).


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

Chris told me mid August.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> I'm 5'9" with a 30 inch inseam pant size ...
> ... So the small Yelli should fit me fine if I run a shorter stem right?


Browsing this thread, 5'9" on a Medium, with a 50mm stem, seems to be one solution. Small, with 70mm stem, would be another guess.

For lots of people 29ers seem to work out with somewhat longer top tubes. One thing is that longer wheelbase may eliminate toe overlap with the bigger wheel. (not sure what sort of shoe and crank sizes would cause problems with the YS)

..............
I'd get the bike on wheels and try with some old stems and bars before committing good money on new and nice parts ... at least that worked with my current bike.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> once you rock on the short chainstays, you'll never look at a bike with 17+ chainstays again (which is good for resisting the urge to buy something in carbon).


Completely agree!!!!!:thumbsup:


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

So, no black frames until August? I heard there was also going to be orange?


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## Pooch (Apr 6, 2011)

I've been looking at the Yelli for a while. I already have a black 26 FS and wanted to get a 29 with some color. I sent an email to Canfield a couple weeks ago and got this back from Chris:

New Yelli's coming end of July are coming in-
Ano-
Black
orange
wasabi Green
deep purple
and
brushed with clearcoat


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

CGrr said:


> So, no black frames until August? I heard there was also going to be orange?


Posted earlier in the thread here, you just missed it.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7892682&postcount=672

*edit* - or just look at the post above mine for accurate up-to-date info.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

perttime said:


> Browsing this thread, 5'9" on a Medium, with a 50mm stem, seems to be one solution. Small, with 70mm stem, would be another guess.
> 
> For lots of people 29ers seem to work out with somewhat longer top tubes. One thing is that longer wheelbase may eliminate toe overlap with the bigger wheel. (not sure what sort of shoe and crank sizes would cause problems with the YS)
> 
> ...


I was thinking of a small with a 50mm stem.
Problem is I don't know anyone around here that has a Yelli I can try.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

pwu_1 said:


> I was thinking of a small with a 50mm stem.
> Problem is I don't know anyone around here that has a Yelli I can try.


I'd be cautious about comparing the top tube lengths on paper, with the slack seat tube it could end up being much shorter/longer depending on your actual saddle height. I'm 5'-9" with a 32" inseam and the medium fit with a 50mm stem and 30" wide bars is just about perfect (and I like compact bikes). It certainly doesn't "feel" nearly as long as another bike I've owned, which had a 23.75" tt and 73d seat angle...


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

FM said:


> I'd be cautious about comparing the top tube lengths on paper, with the slack seat tube it could end up being much shorter/longer depending on your actual saddle height. I'm 5'-9" with a 32" inseam and the medium fit with a 50mm stem and 30" wide bars is just about perfect (and I like compact bikes). It certainly doesn't "feel" nearly as long as another bike I've owned, which had a 23.75" tt and 73d seat angle...


You happen to know your dress shirt size? I usually wear 32/33 and they fit ok.
With 32" inseam, do you have a lot of seat post sticking out of the seat tube?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Are you talking about pants inseam or cycling inseam?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

perttime said:


> Are you talking about pants inseam or cycling inseam?


Pants inseam...not really sure wha tmy cycling inseam is


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

perttime said:


> Are you talking about pants inseam or cycling inseam?





pwu_1 said:


> Pants inseam...not really sure wha tmy cycling inseam is


Good points, since pants fashion length can vary. Maybe we should get into the habit of posting top of (bottom) pedal to top of seat with the cranks in line with the seat tube? Still not perfect, but more accurate overall.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

pwu_1 said:


> Pants inseam...not really sure wha tmy cycling inseam is


Pants inseam is meaningless for bike fit.

Cycling inseam does not change. Ground to pubic arch while barefoot.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

shiggy said:


> Pants inseam is meaningless for bike fit.


I'm going to one-up shiggy here  And say that for a bike like the yelli-screamy... inseam is (nearly) meaningless for bike fit! This really is an AM/lite FR 29'er, if there is such a thing. seat tube length is pretty trivial, my seatpost is only up if I am climbing.. a short seat tube makes perfect sense with 6" drop adjustable seatposts on the market.

Stack and reach is what matters on this bike, as it's meant to be ridden aggressively, out of the saddle. It does make an excellent backcountry XC bike though!

I do have a good bit of post showing, which is a good thing. Nice to be able to get the saddle completely out of the way ( I run a reverb, with a seatpost QR too, so I can drop the extra 2" for the occasional really hairy stuff).

Here's my saddle at climbing height (fork is at 95mm here, and I've actually raised my bars since this photo was taken)










Climbing saturday near shiggy's back yard. Note I am definitely "upright".


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Nice looking bike. I too am waiting for a Medium and guess I will be waiting til August. Guess it will give me more time to collect parts.

Anyways I too spoke w/ the Canfield Bros and they suggested I get a Medium and ride w/ a 70mm stem. Oh yeah and I am 5'8" w/ a 30 inseam.

Can't wait to see the new colors. Think someone on STR had a pic of the wasabi green & it looked really nice.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

James12345 said:


> Nice looking bike. I too am waiting for a Medium and guess I will be waiting til August. Guess it will give me more time to collect parts.
> 
> Anyways I too spoke w/ the Canfield Bros and they suggested I get a Medium and ride w/ a 70mm stem. Oh yeah and I am 5'8" w/ a 30 inseam.
> 
> Can't wait to see the new colors. Think someone on STR had a pic of the wasabi green & it looked really nice.


Cool. Medium it is. Just have to save up some cash and wait for the black to become available.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

*Another black beauty*

Finished and riding.
Reverb dropper seatpost failed on first day so using Thudbuster for now.:madman:
1st day I took it jumping, felt good -a confidence booster on this steed indeed:thumbsup:
2nd day I entered a 4hr enduro that I did last year.
This bike climbs better than my Ti On One and Diamondack 29ers.ie not so light in the front and traction seems to be better:thumbsup:
When railling a corner and I hit a pothole the slacker head angle helps in holding the line:thumbsup:
The low top tube means I can get my old bones on and off far easier:thumbsup:
Looking forward to either a 140mm 2012 Fox or Revelation with adjustable travel next year.
Yelli's look bloody great:thumbsup:
I think I might have got away with a size small. 
Love it, a well happy dude with his purchase, well done Canfileds















http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6826721/?s6
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6826713/


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Made a video of my yelli screamy. I don't have enough posts yet to post the link, but it's YTyByX6-CUA on youtube. Maybe someone can link it for me?

I'm VERY happy with the bike. It just feels right when riding it. Jumping, cornering, climbing, downhill, it all feels good. I'm also using a set of wheels built by lacemine29 with dt swiss hubs and stans flow rims. The wheels seem like a great match for this frame.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

There ya go...


----------



## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Any update on the new shipment of Yelli frames and pics of the actual colors? I want to spend money!


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

*Yelli Colors*

The new Yelli Screamy frames will be shipping to customers around the end of August. Here is an example of the colors. The colors are Black, Orange and Green. There will soon be the option to pre-order on the web-store. I personally love the green !


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Freaking awesome! Any closeup pictures of the actually frames in the different colors? Also any changes to the geo or was there only a color change for the Yelli? And they are all (black, orange, and green) anodized?


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Nice, I think I have to get me one of those. :thumbsup:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

The orange looks pretty slick.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

Late August? Crap! I was hoping the YS frames would be arriving with the Nimble 9 frames which just made it to the US. Clock is ticking on the riding season in the Northeast! Need to get this bike built up before it starts snowing again!


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

went for a ride on a local trail that I don't ride too much over the weekend...Riding it on the yelli was a completely different experience. It has a lot of steep ravine crossing where you drop in and climb back out, often with a super tight turn mixed in somewhere. I feel it highlighted every strength of the bike. Great handling on the way down, able to negotiate nearly any turn and then the massive traction on the way back out. Love this bike.


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## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

that green is nice looking but i am digging the orange as well...


----------



## wedge (Jun 24, 2006)

buy one of each then.


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## cmeride (Sep 10, 2004)

Im selling a silver Medium if anyone is interested...complete that is..


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

lucky enough to own a lot of bikes, but the Yelli seems to be the one I ride the most. when i first built it, i put a 2.4 ardent on the rear (and front), thinking that I'd put a smaller tire on the rear at some point (e.g. 2.4 Purgatory,or 2.25 Ardent)...the Charger Pro rim is almost 23 mm wide internally, and the combination of a large casing and wide rim is huge.

but i've left it on the rear, since the net result on the downhills is unusually good for a hardtail. on the typical moderately rocky trail, i'm going almost as fast as on my 160mm travel AM 26er.

The rides that have ledgy uphill rock sections are especially fun on this bike. I'm clearing things with less effort on the climbs, which gives me more energy for the descents. Manualling on a moderately steep trail with knee-high rocks and the occasional drop is where this bike shines. On a truly steep trail, the rear braking traction advantage of a 6 or 7 inch travel FS bike becomes more significant; and on a trail with a lot of loose rock (babyhead size, say), even this hardtail skips around a bit. But overall i'm finding it has redefined the AM hardtail category for me. much better AM hardtail than a Ragley blue pig or Transition Trans Am, for example.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

cmeride said:


> Im selling a silver Medium if anyone is interested...complete that is..


Why?


----------



## ruylopez (Jan 14, 2009)

I,m getting a nimble and i also want a yelli


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## cmeride (Sep 10, 2004)

wobbem said:


> Why?


I ride my Ibis more and i want to buy an Taylor guitar.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I was all excited to ride some sweet new trail today. Rode the 5.5 miles to the new section and barely 5 minutes in...Crunch! A stick wrapped up in the back end & broke the derailleur hanger, twisted the cage into a pretzel & broke the shifter cable. I made it a SS (32/12) & limped it back to the parking lot. Back to the 650b bike till I get parts together.

Im thinking #103. Any opinions?

Derailleur hanger.com #103










Yelli hanger from the c2 site


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

I thought they ship an extra hanger with the frame?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Mine was a demo frame. Searched the box but didnt find one. Shouldve ordered one a long time ago, but, y'know...


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

jeffw-13 said:


> Im thinking #103. Any opinions?


That's a negative. I bought one and while they are pretty close, they're different enough to not fit. I ground some material off and opened up the hole for the retaining bolt to make it fit. It lives in my bag as an emergency backup but I'm not happy with it for daily use.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

car_nut said:


> That's a negative. I bought one and while they are pretty close, they're different enough to not fit. I ground some material off and opened up the hole for the retaining bolt to make it fit. It lives in my bag as an emergency backup but I'm not happy with it for daily use.


Thanks. Guess Ill order them from c2 then.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

gollub01 said:


> The colors are Black, Orange and Green. There will soon be the option to pre-order on the web-store. I personally love the green


Also raw with clear coat.


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Here is an example of 2 of my personal favorite colors for the newest round of Yelli Screamy frames. Raw with clearcoat and Purple Ano ! The green and orange ano frames were not to our liking, so sparkly metallic paint it is for green and orange instead of anodize. Black will also be anodized.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

I like the raw. Are the green and orange ano ones mottled that you do not like? They look good in the samples in your gallery.

Everyone, click on gollub01s' gallery and and a couple more clicks on your candy of choice, you can beeg pitchers!


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Purple is baaaaack ! 

... all the colors look great. People will have trouble choosing. I like ano and I already have stealth bikes...


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

That purple ano is badass. My Nimble 9 arrived the other day and the green paint is amazing. Will the Yelli be a similar green paint color or be more like the ano color?


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

What's the latest on when these will be available?


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Geez, any larger pictures? Such a tease, want to see closeup shots of the raw if you have them. Oh and by the way do any of you guys know exactly when they will be taking pre-orders?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Wow. Not usually my favorite color, but that purple is hawt.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

slocaus said:


> Everyone, click on gollub01s' gallery and and a couple more clicks on your candy of choice, you can beeg pitchers!


----------



## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Pre-orders will be available soon on the web-site. The Nimble 9 frame color is the same on the Yelli Screamy. For some reason Im always limited on picture size. Here are some more pics in this album.

A little bit of color for anyone really !

http://gollub01.pinkbike.com/album/29ers/


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

James12345 said:


> Geez, any larger pictures? Such a tease, want to see closeup shots of the raw if you have them. Oh and by the way do any of you guys know exactly when they will be taking pre-orders?


Read post #851 above and click on link.

--------------->>>>>>> LINK <<<<<<<<-----------------------


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

damn that purple is sweet


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

Yup, the purple makes my black look pretty tame...


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Never thought I'd ever say a purple frame looked good, but that is bad azzs!


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

wyatt79m said:


> Yup, the purple makes my black look pretty tame...


What he said +1. If'n I didn't already own a Yelli, I'd be buying purple...or perhaps a green N9.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

How many of you are running 140mm forks and hows the handling?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

gollub01 said:


> Pre-orders will be available soon on the web-site. The Nimble 9 frame color is the same on the Yelli Screamy. For some reason Im always limited on picture size. Here are some more pics in this album.
> 
> A little bit of color for anyone really !
> 
> http://gollub01.pinkbike.com/album/29ers/


The glossy finish on the green and orange is the final production spec ? They look A LOT better than the matte finish samples that were posted earlier. :thumbsup:


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## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

wobbem said:


> How many of you are running 140mm forks and hows the handling?


140 on yelli = win

YMMV.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

wobbem said:


> How many of you are running 140mm forks and hows the handling?


140mm Marzocchi Bomber on mine. Handles great :thumbsup:


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)




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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

My green Nimble looks badass. You guys will love the green Yelli.

That said, loving the orange too, and I already told a buddy of mine who may be buying one of these that he has to get the purple one. That purple ano is awesome.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I love my Yelli, I really do. And the brothers Canfield have been great! But $76 for two derailleur hangers in a baggie/Priority Mail envelope :eekster:


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> I love my Yelli, I really do. And the brothers Canfield have been great! But $76 for two derailleur hangers in a baggie/Priority Mail envelope :eekster:


wow, according to oscar from chumba, canfield bikes are glorified walmart bikes made in the same factory and should be considered a value brand. it's strange to see so much excitement over them. (that's completely sarcastic, i like canfield bros bikes)



oscarchumba said:


> definitely, this whole thing has been totally blown out of proportion with some flamers
> 
> its possible, money talks over there, and some people might be paying more than we are to get better service. i think our quality comes from one of the top factories over there who don't make any frames that retail for less than $1,000.00 and we pay a lot for our frames,
> 
> ...





oscarchumba;828795
we're saying banshee is that said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=380228&page=8
> 
> both banshee and canfield are made in the same factory along with niner, diamondback and others. according to the chumba rep they are crap bikes because pacific also makes walmart bikes. this from a guy who has had a customers bike for months with promises of sending it back.


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## wyatt79m (Mar 3, 2007)

140mm on my Yelli = teh awesome.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I don't care where my bike is made. If it is well built, has great geometry, and looks good, that is all that matters.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

qbert2000 said:


> wow, according to oscar from chumba....


Thanks for posting that. I was considering an HX2 for a winter SS build, but now I know to look elsewhere.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Please, lets not let the drama from the cumba forum ruin this thread. Dude's just mad nobody talks about his company anymore. There's probably a lot of people in the industry surprised about canfield's buzz with their 29ers.

So, that polished raw looks sweeeeeeetttttt !


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## redhawk13 (Nov 11, 2010)

*C2 Wheelset*

Is anyone running the Canfield Wheel set on their Yelli? Any reasons why I should or shouldn't use them. This my first bike build and I don't know sh^t about sh^t when it comes to components. The only component I have locked down is the frame. 
I'm just a weekend warrior, and I go 6'0 at about 210-215lbs if that helps with any of your input. Thanks in advance.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

I can say first hand that Chumba has *terrible* customer service!

I haven't purchased anything from the brothers yet, but from what I hear they are awesome to deal with. That's a big part of what makes a company succeed or fail, sounds like they have their heads on their shoulders.

Still think that purple ano rocks!!! :yesnod:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

redhawk13 said:


> Is anyone running the Canfield Wheel set on their Yelli? Any reasons why I should or shouldn't use them. This my first bike build and I don't know sh^t about sh^t when it comes to components. The only component I have locked down is the frame.
> I'm just a weekend warrior, and I go 6'0 at about 210-215lbs if that helps with any of your input. Thanks in advance.


Sorry, don't know anything about them. Which, would be the reason why I wouldn't use them since I'm not really the "early adopter" type. There are three must haves that I personally look for in wheels. This isn't to say you should as well, but I want:
- Available replacement parts: At 215lbs, if you blow a freehub you'll want the ability to buy a new one. Actually, at your(our) weight you'll either want a well known "clyde" friendly hub or at least one that readily offers replacement freehubs.
- Convertible hubs: With all of the different standards floating around, I'd like the ability to convert my wheels to 20mm, 15mm etc.
- Tubeless: I like running tubeless and would like rims with the ability to do so without adding rim strips. Others prefer tubes for good reason so this may have no value to you.

If these wheels were cheap I'd give them a go. But, at $480, there are a lot of other known wheels out there that I'd go for first. The Sun Ringle Charger Pro is a good example. You should be able to score a set of Handspun wheels with Flow rims/Hope hubs for about $500. You could also contact user mikesee who runs www.lacemine29.com for a recommendation and quote. If you don't have tires yet, the package he's offering under his "specials" link is a pretty good deal with a nice set of tires.


----------



## mellowme17 (Aug 3, 2009)

purple rocks!


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## Flip D (Sep 16, 2005)

*OK, so I've read the WHOLE thread...*

Is there a difference in manualling the tront end on a 16.7" CS bike compared to say 17.9" on most other hardtails? It's the one thing I hate about 29er's...I can't manual over a piece of gravel on my Dos. I know it's me but this would help me cheat to get the front end up.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Yes. Your reach/body position has a large effect as well, but the short stays help a lot.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Im running my Yelli 1x9. I got one of the MRP 1x direct mount chainguides (pictured below) to keep the chain on. When I shifted to the outer ends of the cassette the chain rubbed the guide. I took the two screws out that hold the two halves together & sandwiched a couple of the little nuts that go on your presta vavle stems in between the halves of the guide for more clearance. No more rub.


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

After a talk with Chris, I just gotta do it. This should be fun. I can't wait to see how this thing rides on our flat Texas trails.


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

redhawk13 said:


> Is anyone running the Canfield Wheel set on their Yelli? Any reasons why I should or shouldn't use them. This my first bike build and I don't know sh^t about sh^t when it comes to components. The only component I have locked down is the frame.
> I'm just a weekend warrior, and I go 6'0 at about 210-215lbs if that helps with any of your input. Thanks in advance.


the sun ringle charger pros are often mentioned in recent threads regarding quality wheels at a reasonable price (i paid 450 complete, shipping included).

basically, with these you get a stan's flow rim (wide enough to work well w/ the tires that are suited to this AM hardtail) with eyelets to enable a higher spoke tension, and straight-pull spokes on a 24 pt engagement rear hub that is as nice as any taiwanese hub i've seen. weight is quite low given the overall wheel stiffness and width...1799 g as I recall.

keep an eye on the spoke tension during the first 5-10 rides, but other than that these have held up well to some rocky abuse. i weigh 195.


----------



## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Pre-order is on the website now.
Sweet.

http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/frames/yelli-screamy


----------



## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

wyatt79m said:


> 140mm on my Yelli = teh awesome.


agreed, I would like to try 120 sometime but not very motivated


----------



## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Ah, just pre-ordered a Large Ano-Purple frame. Stoked!


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Order placed with bikerbob. Semi-polished. Woot ! Hurry boat. Row Row Row !


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

A (very) short Yelli Vid. hope to get some chunk & climbing shots soon






Mountain biking at Brady's Run Park, PA from jeff watson on Vimeo.


----------



## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)

I think I just snagged the last medium semi-polished! Can't wait to build it up.


----------



## frank85loo (Aug 9, 2011)

Cool geometry.


----------



## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Yikes, looks like they are selling quick.
Hopefully when the site says they start shipping 3rd week of August they mean Aug 15th. I got next week off from work. It would be awesome to get a whole week to build up and ride.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Its the 3rd week. Just sayin


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Yelli Action!!!!!

Whistler westside.....


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

FM said:


> Yelli Action!!!!!
> 
> Whistler westside.....


Psicktersaurus Rex!

Cheap Thrills FTW! Haven't gotten up there this summer. :madman:


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Looks like price went up by $50? Now its $700 shipped. Oh well guess its worth it for the color I want


----------



## Ryan G. (Aug 13, 2004)

...............


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Nice picture FM. I'll be picking up my YS this weekend.


----------



## Joe Mama (Jan 19, 2004)

pwu_1 said:


> Looks like price went up by $50? Now its $700 shipped. Oh well guess its worth it for the color I want


That's a bummer. Makes it cost more than both the Paradox and Honzo, which have similar geometry...


----------



## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

Joe Mama said:


> That's a bummer. Makes it cost more than both the Paradox and Honzo, which have similar geometry...


I think the Yelli has some advantages over those other bikes. It has better standover clearance and allows larger tires than the Paradox. The Honzo is limited to a 1x drivetrain.

Anyone know when the new batch of Yelli's will be shipping?


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

osty said:


> @ Eurospek; If you're 6'4" you need to get the XL Yelli. I'm 6'1" and ride a L. When I do have to do any sustained pedaling, I run my post like I should and on my Thomson (410mm) it's practicaly at full extension.
> The ST length on the Yelli is pretty short; think mine measured at 18inches which I think is common for Med. sized frames.


Just to mix things up, I'm 6' 4" on a L with a 70mm stem and am very happy with the sizing. I find the L very playful


----------



## HOLLYWOOD33 (Jan 2, 2009)

How is stand-up climbing?

Does the rake and short chainstays affect this?


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

HOLLYWOOD33 said:


> How is stand-up climbing?


Standing climbing should be great with the short chainstays placing the center of the rear wheel (closer to) under your butt. I believe a few people earlier in the thread said it was great.

My current frame with 17.5 chainstays needs a little bit of rearward weight shift once in a while on really steep stuff. If I don't have to do that anymore it will be an extra bonus.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

martin_uk said:


> Just to mix things up, I'm 6' 4" on a L with a 70mm stem and am very happy with the sizing. *I find the L very playful*


See, that's what I'm looking for. Do you find the seat tube short? Running a dropper post?

My TransAM is 24.2" ETT with a 50mm stem and I find it so nimble on the trail. I love it a lot.

The Yelli XL 25.x" ETT kind of throws me off a little since I had an XL Gary Fisher Piranha hardtail with a 25.4" ETT, ran that with a 100mm stem, and it felt so stretched out and XC that I'm worried I will feel the same with the XL Yelli if I ever decide to build one.


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

From that description it sounds to me like you should go for the Large.

I run a 400mm seat post at full extention when in flat out pedalling mode and slightly lower for single track blasts. I did had a Joplin on it but find it to firm when pedalling seated so took it off.


----------



## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

6'1&1/2" here and ride an XL Turner 5 spot with a 24.5 top tube an 90mm stem. After talking to Chris at Canfield he recommended an Xl with a 50-70mm stem for me. He is of similar hight and also rides the XL. I went ahead and ordered a the raw in an XL a few months ago. Hope that helps.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

eurospek said:


> The Yelli XL 25.x" ETT kind of throws me off a little since I had an XL Gary Fisher Piranha hardtail with a 25.4" ETT, ran that with a 100mm stem, and it felt so stretched out and XC that I'm worried I will feel the same with the XL Yelli if I ever decide to build one.


I find the sizing to be a little weird. Comparing the yelli dimensions with other bikes it seems to have a shorter seat tube and longer ett for a given size. I'm not sure about this but my feeling from riding mine is that the top tube does not actually feel as long as you'd think it is from looking at the chart.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

eurospek said:


> See, that's what I'm looking for. Do you find the seat tube short? Running a dropper post?
> 
> My TransAM is 24.2" ETT with a 50mm stem and I find it so nimble on the trail. I love it a lot.
> 
> The Yelli XL 25.x" ETT kind of throws me off a little since I had an XL Gary Fisher Piranha hardtail with a 25.4" ETT, ran that with a 100mm stem, and it felt so stretched out and XC that I'm worried I will feel the same with the XL Yelli if I ever decide to build one.


Well, it's not surprising that the GF felt stretched out since you were running a 2" longer stem on it.

With that said, get the L if you're currently happy with the TransAm since it lines up almost exactly in terms of TT and reach. The only thing I'd be concerned with is how high you like to run your seat post. At your size, you might well need a flag pole if you like to run full leg extension.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

HVskier said:


> I find the sizing to be a little weird. Comparing the yelli dimensions with other bikes it seems to have a shorter seat tube and longer ett for a given size. I'm not sure about this but my feeling from riding mine is that the top tube does not actually feel as long as you'd think it is from looking at the chart.


How do the seat tube angles compare? The Yelli has a rather slack STA which gives a longer ETT for a given reach. Not all frame vendors publish reach #'s, but try comparing those to the Yelli as well if it is available.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

HVskier said:


> I'm not sure about this but my feeling from riding mine is that the top tube does not actually feel as long as you'd think it is from looking at the chart.


I get the same feeling. Among my three bikes, all of which sport 24.5" ETTs, zero offset seatposts, and 70-80mm stems, the YS just feels the most compact. I wouldn't change a thing, though. It doesn't feel cramped. I was just a bit surprised at the sensation when I first rode the bike.


----------



## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

HVskier said:


> I find the sizing to be a little weird. Comparing the yelli dimensions with other bikes it seems to have a shorter seat tube and longer ett for a given size.


The Reach and Stack numbers, especially Reach, would probably be the best numbers to compare for cockpit size. Unfortunately, there aren't all that many bike brands that give those numbers.


----------



## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Ugh I want mine so bad... I hope everything goes smoothly with customs and shipping,


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Slurry said:


> Ugh I want mine so bad... I hope everything goes smoothly with customs and shipping,


Agreed


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Agreed


----------



## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

The purple looks amazing, but went the safe route and ordered a Medium Black YS!


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## sslos (Jan 6, 2004)

OneBadWagon said:


> After a talk with Chris, I just gotta do it. This should be fun. I can't wait to see how this thing rides on our flat Texas trails.


If you shoot down I35 for a few hours, lemme know. We can have a Canfield mini-get together on some of the rockfests here around San Antonio.

Los


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## awh311 (Aug 23, 2011)

Ride Details? has anyone taken one of these bad boys for a thrashing?


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

awh311 said:


> Ride Details? has anyone taken one of these bad boys for a thrashing?


Did you try reading the other 9 pages yet ?


----------



## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

awh311 said:


> Ride Details? has anyone taken one of these bad boys for a thrashing?


Yes, I have ridden mine extensively and thrashed it.
It is a nice bicycle, it was better than Cats.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

92gli said:


> Did you try reading the other 9 pages yet ?


you mean the 9 pages with detailed observations about how this frame performs in a variety of conditions?

The same 9-page thread that mysteriously has a couple of posters asking 'hey has anyone ridden their YS and have a ride report?' despite the numerous ride reports?

:skep:


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Just got my tracking number... Says it will arrive tomorrow. I'll posts some pics of a Large Purple. and whatnot.


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Got mine as well but says the 30th for delivery.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

OH snap! Gonna get my frame on the 26th!


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Heres a kinda grainy picture of mine.

Currently without a front derailer. 100mm Manitou Minute fork with a straight 1 1/8" steer and a reducer crown race.

The rear IS mounts were drilled a bit off on my frame, and they were closer to 49mm apart, instead of 51mm. Chris said it was fine if I just filed them out a little bit to make it work, which I did. Otherwise, everything seems great.


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

Slurry said:


> Heres a kinda grainy picture of mine.
> 
> Currently without a front derailer. 100mm Manitou Minute fork with a straight 1 1/8" steer and a reducer crown race.
> 
> The rear IS mounts were drilled a bit off on my frame, and they were closer to 49mm apart, instead of 51mm. Chris said it was fine if I just filed them out a little bit to make it work, which I did. Otherwise, everything seems great.


Bah! That purple looks fantastic. I can't wait for mine to get here. I wish my flows were white, but I had to have 36h.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

OneBadWagon said:


> Bah! That purple looks fantastic. I can't wait for mine to get here. I wish my flows were white, but I had to have 36h.


It looks even better in person.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Pretty sick looking with the white components. Is that a L and how tall are you?


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

Slurry said:


> It looks even better in person.


I can't wait to get my grubby little paws on mine.

Purple XL
White Marzocchi 44 ti
Coming soon XTR cranks w/ HBC ring
Flows on Hadley hubs

I can't wait. Now if I can just powdercoat this thomson seatpost.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Pretty sick looking with the white components. Is that a L and how tall are you?


Yea its an L. I'm coming off a XL Niner that I always felt was a little long for me, and I'm about 6'1". I've currently got the seatpost even higher than it is in the picture, and my cockpit is a 70mm stem and 720mm bars.


----------



## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Lookin' good. I like the white wheels too. Looks like I need to save up for a nice wheelset. Right now most of my build will be parts off my first bike. So it'll be a mix of decent and meh parts.

Can't wait for my purple XL either but it'll be next week for me. 
Big brown truck, why do you tease me so cruel?


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

Darn it. My old gold anodized L looks quite subdued and understated next to that purple one.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Black is beautiful


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Our group just received 5 frames out of the new batch and they look great. We also got to see all the new colors, the orange and green look really good and much better than I thought they would. The raw looks good too. I don't think you could go wrong with any of the new colors.

It's really nice that Canfield includes an extra derailleur hanger and zip ties to attach brake lines and derailleur cables.


----------



## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

My xl raw arrives today but I may need to sell it, too many bikes for the wife

Ugh this isn't fair.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

*This afternoon*

I snapped a cellphone pic as I walked up the stairs. Purple, large. I have an assortment of white and gold parts waiting inside. Not gonna be subtle.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Met with Chris Canfield today at NorthStar... got a really interesting story on how the bike was named. Industry peeps are a riot! Got to sit on a Large Nimble Nine in green that he was building up SS, but the Yelly Screamy is the one I really have my eye on. Damn short chain stays and a 68 * head tube if you run a 120mm. Really want to demo one to see how it climbs... but nothing is built up in an XL.


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> Met with Chris Canfield today at NorthStar... got a really interesting story on how the bike was named. Industry peeps are a riot! Got to sit on a Large Nimble Nine in green that he was building up SS, but the Yelly Screamy is the one I really have my eye on. Damn short chain stays and a 68 * head tube if you run a 120mm. Really want to demo one to see how it climbs... but nothing is built up in an XL.


Me too! Us CA guys have some steep azz climbs compared to many places! The other thing I wonder for me, is if the short stays work for someone with really long legs and short torso (me, 6'3" 37" inseam) so need large for the ETT I know I want, but then seat is high, and that slack seat tube plus short stays really shifts my hips and CG back toward the rear axle.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

slocaus said:


> Me too! Us CA guys have some steep azz climbs compared to many places! The other thing I wonder for me, is if the short stays work for someone with really long legs and short torso (me, 6'3" 37" inseam) so need large for the ETT I know I want, but then seat is high, and that slack seat tube plus short stays really shifts my hips and CG back toward the rear axle.


If Chris gets all the pieces he needs to finish it up, maybe I'll get a spin on a Large. We will see, he's got his hands full with all his downhill racer team this weekend.


----------



## hamilton (Nov 22, 2005)

Does anyone have any better pictures of the raw frame they could post up? Thanks.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

hamilton said:


> Does anyone have any better pictures of the raw frame they could post up? Thanks.


From gollub01's post #850 in this thread?
yelli_raw_resized photo from the Mtbr Mountain Bike Photo Gallery


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## hamilton (Nov 22, 2005)

slocaus said:


> From gollub01's post #850 in this thread?
> yelli_raw_resized photo from the Mtbr Mountain Bike Photo Gallery


Yeah, I saw that one, hence 'better'! I'd be interested to see a pic that wasn't so blurry. It's hard to tell what the finish on the raw frames actually looks like from that pic, and seeing as the things have begun dropping on people's doorsteps...


----------



## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

I'll see if I can post a pic tomorrow. Realy looks nice though I have yet to remove all the packaging to get a full view.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

*Direct mount screw*

Hey guys, had a question. I'm in the process of installing a shimano direct mount deraileur on my YS and was wondering if the mounting screw came with the frame or do I need to pick one up from the hardware store? If so, do any of you guys know what size I need?


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## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

The mounting screw doesn't come with the frame, it should have come with your front derailleur. Sorry, not sure what size it is.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

Me and my Yelli at Wisp Md. yesterday. Had a blast on a HT there:thumbsup:


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

James12345 said:


> Hey guys, had a question. I'm in the process of installing a shimano direct mount deraileur on my YS and was wondering if the mounting screw came with the frame or do I need to pick one up from the hardware store? If so, do any of you guys know what size I need?


Just in case anyone else needed to know the bold that mounts the Shimano Direct Mount front derailleur is a M6 1.0 bolt/screw. Same size as your brake mounts.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

osty said:


> Me and my Yelli at Wisp Md. yesterday. Had a blast on a HT there:thumbsup:


Very Nice :thumbsup:

It still amazes me the things i find my self doing on a 29" ht haha


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

Ya, tell me about it! LOL! I was catching all kinds of crap from guys on full out DH bikes. LOL! I heard; don't fold your wheels up, where's your tights and nice bottle cage mounts.
It was fun and games


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

From the booth at North Star.










C2 hisself. No idea where is brother was hiding.










A pic of a freshly built up N2 in large.


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Nice pics everyone ! No more 'stach Chris? You look 10 years younger ha ! I would have loved to have a Yelli for the 12 hr. redbull DH race @ Jackson this past weekend. I rode my Jedi but with the flat trails would have been fun on a Yelli or Nimble. The new colors look great !


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

*Medium YS built fresh!*

Hey guys,

Here is my YS. Just finished building it last night. It is a medium with a 70mm stem, I am 5'7" with a 30 inch inseam and it fits like a glove.

Just a question for you guys. I have a RS Reba w/ Maxle up front. If I tighten the Maxle too much, it causes so much drag and the wheel just does not want to roll freely. But if I just undertighten the Maxle a bit, the wheels rolls freely but there is just a tiny bit of sideplay. Does anyone know what is going on?

Thanks,

James


----------



## canyonrat (Oct 24, 2006)

James12345 said:


> Hey guys,
> I have a RS Reba w/ Maxle up front. If I tighten the Maxle too much, it causes so much drag and the wheel just does not want to roll freely. But if I just undertighten the Maxle a bit, the wheels rolls freely but there is just a tiny bit of sideplay. Does anyone know what is going on?


Nice looking bike James.

If that Roval hub has pop-on sidecaps, cartridge bearings and no pre-load adjustment (like my DT and Hope front hubs do) then how tight you get the Maxle has basically become your bearing pre-load. When you torque it down too hard, it is placing too much side-load on the bearings and seals and causing some drag. If you notice this on the stand, it is probably not anything you would notice while riding. But good to find the sweet spot with almost no play but spinning freely.

My Hope hub is a little more sensitive to this than my DT, I think the DT manufacturing tolerances are a little tighter. I have notice this just using a DT RWS 9mm thru, so your Maxle is like that on steroids, giving you a lot more leverage.


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

James12345 said:


> Here is my YS. Just finished building it last night. It is a *medium with a 70mm stem, I am 5'7" with a 30 inch inseam and it fits like a glove*.


Funny how much personal taste changes with fitting a bicycle. I am *6'2 and ride a medium with 40mm stem* and my Yelli fits me like a glove.


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## canyonrat (Oct 24, 2006)

geolover said:


> Funny how much personal taste changes with fitting a bicycle. I am *6'2 and ride a medium with 40mm stem* and my Yelli fits me like a glove.


How about posting a picture of you riding...not some big G-Nar, just from the side down a flat trail in normal seated riding position.  Seriously, I'm trying to figure this out.

I'm 6' 3.5" have an XL sitting in my garage with piles of parts waiting to build...and I expect to have a stack o spacers, a "short" 100mm 10 degree stem, and a riser bar on it just to get the bars level with the seat with sag because the head tube is so short. I want to have that cool short stubby stem flat on top of my headset but I would likely bash my knees on it and come home from the first ride hunchbacked.  What am I doing wrong?

I'm starting to think there is a vast difference between XC type bike fit and what people like to run on AM bikes.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

canyonrat said:


> How about posting a picture of you riding...not some big G-Nar, just from the side down a flat trail in normal seated riding position.  Seriously, I'm trying to figure this out.
> 
> I'm 6' 3.5" have an XL sitting in my garage with piles of parts waiting to build...and I expect to have a stack o spacers, a "short" 100mm 10 degree stem, and a riser bar on it just to get the bars level with the seat with sag because the head tube is so short. I want to have that cool short stubby stem flat on top of my headset but I would likely bash my knees on it and come home from the first ride hunchbacked.  What am I doing wrong?
> 
> I'm starting to think there is a vast difference between XC type bike fit and what people like to run on AM bikes.


Ditto.

Almost plunked down some change for one with Chris at the races, he did make a compelling arguement, but the 20"seat post tube has me concerned at well as the short head tube. So until I demo one.... to see how it fits with my 6'5"... gonna hold off... plus I had to sell a Manitou Dorado for some mad money first.

I did ride the Nimble Nine configured SS and I think some folks would really like it. It had razor sharp steering input with that Niner Carbon fork in green to match. Bike just had a really nice "Retro" look to it, steel framed, I believe.

I


----------



## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

geolover said:


> Funny how much personal taste changes with fitting a bicycle. I am *6'2 and ride a medium with 40mm stem* and my Yelli fits me like a glove.


MAN THAT'S CRAZY!!!!! not busting your balls, but I am 6'1" and ride a large w/ a 90mm stem and 410mm post.
I ride my Yelli in all kinds of terrain from XC to DH stuff and it works awesome for me w/ my setup
Anyway, if that Med. works for you, :thumbsup:


----------



## geolover (Nov 27, 2005)

canyonrat said:


> How about posting a picture of you riding...not some big G-Nar, just from the side down a flat trail in normal seated riding position.  Seriously, I'm trying to figure this out.
> 
> I'm 6' 3.5" have an XL sitting in my garage with piles of parts waiting to build...and I expect to have a stack o spacers, a "short" 100mm 10 degree stem, and a riser bar on it just to get the bars level with the seat with sag because the head tube is so short. I want to have that cool short stubby stem flat on top of my headset but I would likely bash my knees on it and come home from the first ride hunchbacked.  What am I doing wrong?
> 
> I'm starting to think there is a vast difference between XC type bike fit and what people like to run on AM bikes.


Sorry, no picks of me riding. For the record, I prefer a smaller cockpit than most. I have four bikes and all of them are downhill oriented and have ETT of 23.5 to 23.8". The one big issue with going with a smaller Yelli would be the seat tube length...I barely get enough height for comfortable climbing.

It is possible that I look like I'm monkey-fvcking the handlebars on my Yelli, but I don' care. I'm comfortable enough on the climbs and with the short wheel base it is a nimble/flickable little beast. I love this bike. :thumbsup:


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

In case you missed it; there's a canfield forum om MTBR now :thumbsup:

http://forums.mtbr.com/canfield/?securitytoken=1314679841-d105331caa1aa0e1ba82419a5d609ac8b643297b&daysprune=30


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

humanpackmule said:


> My XL purple just arrived.
> I'm stuck here at work and my wife unboxed it and is sending me teaser photos of the frame. :devil:
> 
> I wanna go home so bad! :cryin: :smallviolin:


Make sure you tell your wife you love her, first, before you go see the Canfield.


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

My XL purple just arrived.
I'm stuck here at work and my wife unboxed it and is sending me teaser photos of the frame. :devil:

I wanna go home so bad! :cryin: :smallviolin:


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

humanpackmule said:


> My XL purple just arrived.
> I'm stuck here at work and my wife unboxed it and is sending me teaser photos of the frame. :devil:
> 
> I wanna go home so bad! :cryin: :smallviolin:


Mine arrived yesterday and it looks great! The headset, tensioner and seat that I ordered from pricepoint arrived too. Well, the wrong headset, and they "forgot" to put the seat in the order. Thanks Pricepoint!


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

RandyBoy said:


> Make sure you tell your wife you love her, first, before you go see the Canfield.


Roger that


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?

I'm trying as close as possible to replicate my Transition TransAm in terms of components, especially choosing a similar quality wheelset (Hope Pro 2 Evos on 29er Stan's Flows, right now on Hope Pro 2 and Mavic EX721) and the the Fox 34 Talas/Float (currently running a Fox 36 Float), so I'm not giving up on any of the stiffness and burliness of my current AM build, and a quick spreadsheet calculation shows over $3,000, not including the small stuff like grips and seat clamps for example. :nono:

I could simply sell my current frame, forks and wheelset, and swap everything over, but I'm still looking at over $1500+ or so for the Yelli frame, new forks, wheelset, and miscellenous stuff that won't swap over and will have to get new. :madman:


----------



## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

After calculating the cost of my build, it came out to be about $2350. The only thing that was from my parts bin was the saddle and pedals. Everything else was purchased from CL, Ebay, CRC, and Jenson.


----------



## givemefive (May 26, 2007)

With the right headset you could use your current fork.. and I don't see why you couldn't use your wheels too?

edit: oops totally missed you currently are running a 26 bike


----------



## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?


Get some sunn/ringle charger pros, those are sweet wheels and will save you $1-200 over the hope/flows for comparable (if not better IMO) wheels.

On the fork, you could save big $ with one of the chainlove 'zocchi micro ti's. Mine just showed up tonight, and first impressions are positive....


----------



## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

givemefive said:


> With the right headset you could use your current fork.. and I don't see why you couldn't use your wheels too?


You want him to put a 26" fork and wheels on a 29er frame?!!


----------



## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?
> 
> I'm trying as close as possible to replicate my Transition TransAm in terms of components, especially choosing a similar quality wheelset (Hope Pro 2 Evos on 29er Stan's Flows, right now on Hope Pro 2 and Mavic EX721) and the the Fox 34 Talas/Float (currently running a Fox 36 Float), so I'm not giving up on any of the stiffness and burliness of my current AM build, and a quick spreadsheet calculation shows over $3,000, not including the small stuff like grips and seat clamps for example. :nono:
> 
> I could simply sell my current frame, forks and wheelset, and swap everything over, but I'm still looking at over $1500+ or so for the Yelli frame, new forks, wheelset, and miscellenous stuff that won't swap over and will have to get new. :madman:


If you are looking to build this bike on a budget I would suggest checking out other forks. The Fox 34 is a grand by itself, just the fork and frame put you at 1700 bucks. My personal Yelli only set me back 8 or 9 bills, but that is becuase the majority of the parts were sitting in the bin.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

The Chainlove deals on the 44s made this viable for me. I moved my drivetrain, brakes and wheels over from a rarely used EMD9, and replaced the cockpit, frame and fork. I needed a new FD and headset, and 15mm caps for my front hub, but that was it. It's not the drivetrain or brakes I want on this frame, but it's what I had and what will do for now.

I had one of the first batch of 2009 44s. Even after sending it back in for warranty service, it didn't feel anything as nice as the 2010 I got on Chainlove. I only have one ride on it so far, but small bump is total butter.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

*Purple is a fruit*

I'll stand out around this town-









I have some placeholder parts on there for now, but this will do for the time being. The 44 is at the full 140mm, and I think it feels great.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> *If you are looking to build this bike on a budget I would suggest checking out other forks.* The Fox 34 is a grand by itself, just the fork and frame put you at 1700 bucks. My personal Yelli only set me back 8 or 9 bills, but that is becuase the majority of the parts were sitting in the bin.


Was hoping a full build would be somewhere around my TransAM build, but I don't want to downgrade from what I'm running ATM, and it's a lot more $$$ it seems.

BTW, that purple above is sick.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

eurospek said:


> BTW, that purple above is sick.


Thanks. I never wanted a purple bike until I saw those pictures of the new colors a month or so ago.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

evasive said:


> The Chainlove deals on the 44s made this viable for me. I moved my drivetrain, brakes and wheels over from a rarely used EMD9, and replaced the cockpit, frame and fork. I needed a new FD and headset, and 15mm caps for my front hub, but that was it. It's not the drivetrain or brakes I want on this frame, but it's what I had and what will do for now.
> 
> I had one of the first batch of 2009 44s. Even after sending it back in for warranty service, it didn't feel anything as nice as the 2010 I got on Chainlove. I only have one ride on it so far, but small bump is total butter.


Interesting, your thoughts on the fork changes between the year models, and set at 140mm on the Yelly.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?
> 
> I'm trying as close as possible to replicate my Transition TransAm in terms of components, especially choosing a similar quality wheelset (Hope Pro 2 Evos on 29er Stan's Flows, right now on Hope Pro 2 and Mavic EX721) and the the Fox 34 Talas/Float (currently running a Fox 36 Float), so I'm not giving up on any of the stiffness and burliness of my current AM build, and a quick spreadsheet calculation shows over $3,000, not including the small stuff like grips and seat clamps for example. :nono:
> 
> I could simply sell my current frame, forks and wheelset, and swap everything over, but I'm still looking at over $1500+ or so for the Yelli frame, new forks, wheelset, and miscellenous stuff that won't swap over and will have to get new. :madman:


My build ended up costing just over 2 grand. I bought a Reba Team new for $350, so that saved me some. My Flow's and Hopes cost $500. You can figure out the rest. As others have said, that sweet Fox fork is what is really going to blow your budget.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Eurospek Im 200 lbs & have the 140mm Marzocchi 44 on mine. I dont detect any flex at all, Its a great fork on the Yelli. I get a little air on mine & drops to flat up to 3 feet or so. The Fox 34 is sweet & burly but unless you're really gonna hammer on it probably overkill. If you wanna keep costs down take a good hard look at the Marzocchi. BTW also running Hopes/Flows.


----------



## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?


Well so far about 1660 not counting taxes and shipping.
The vast majority was the frame, a Fox fork and a crankset. Everything else is coming off my old bike. I figure I've still got a bunch of things I still want to swap out but that'll have to wait as I'm already way over budget.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

jeffw-13 said:


> Eurospek Im 200 lbs & have the 140mm Marzocchi 44 on mine. I dont detect any flex at all, Its a great fork on the Yelli. I get a little air on mine & drops to flat up to 3 feet or so. The Fox 34 is sweet & burly but unless you're really gonna hammer on it probably overkill. If you wanna keep costs down take a good hard look at the Marzocchi. BTW also running Hopes/Flows.


Have you tried it at 120mm?

This being my first 29er, is 140mm too much for such big wheels? Should I be looking at a travel adjust fork like a Talas?

ATM, I'll post my TransAM for sale, if someone bites for my asking price great, I'll sell it and build up a Yelli quick. If not, then I'll finish the season on the TransAM and slowly build the Yelli from the frame up over winter looking for good deals (just like I did with the TransAM) and then sell it next spring.

:thumbsup:


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Have you tried it at 120mm?
> 
> This being my first 29er, is 140mm too much for such big wheels? Should I be looking at a travel adjust fork like a Talas?
> 
> ...


Most of the 140mm fork options are travel adjustable, just not on the trail. Marz, RS Reba, and Fox 34 can all be dropped in travel using internal spacers. Buy a 140mm and test it for yourself at both heights. You can't beat personal experience :thumbsup:


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

the mayor said:


> I have 2 hands.
> one is for holding wrenches
> one is for holding beer
> Unless I can train another part of my body to take pics...you are SOL.
> Hope you understand.


Invest in the future, get a Beverage Hard Hat.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

eurospek said:


> Have you tried it at 120mm?
> 
> This being my first 29er, is 140mm too much for such big wheels? Should I be looking at a travel adjust fork like a Talas?
> 
> ...


I do sometimes wish I had the Talas for climbing. IME, the Yelli rewards stand and mashing climbing moreso than sit and spin. I do a bit of both, but there are times I'd like to drop to 95mm, or whatever the Talas low end is, to help on steep climbs. I'm old and fat, so I'm sure this isn't a problem for other riders.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

eurospek said:


> Have you tried it at 120mm?
> 
> This being my first 29er, is 140mm too much for such big wheels? Should I be looking at a travel adjust fork like a Talas?


My .02c.
If you hit jumps and drops, 120mm goes pretty quick if the landings lack a tranny.
I have (had?) a talas, and nearly never use the travel adjust, but do use the lock-out.
Climbing on the yelli is different than your transam (or my AM curtlo). The bigger wheel and tire means far better traction, so you don't need to move your weight around so much to keep the bike hooking up on climbs. This is one of the things I really like about the 29'r. You can climb out of the saddle more often if you like, stand and mash, run your bars higher if you want, not lower your fork etc. and not worry about the rear wheel spinning.

Another curious thing, since the 29'ers have that shallower angle of approach, I find I get far fewer pinch flats, as a result I am happily running lighter tires compared to my AM 26'er.


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?
> 
> I'm trying as close as possible to replicate my Transition TransAm in terms of components, especially choosing a similar quality wheelset (Hope Pro 2 Evos on 29er Stan's Flows, right now on Hope Pro 2 and Mavic EX721) and the the Fox 34 Talas/Float (currently running a Fox 36 Float), so I'm not giving up on any of the stiffness and burliness of my current AM build, and a quick spreadsheet calculation shows over $3,000, not including the small stuff like grips and seat clamps for example. :nono:
> 
> I could simply sell my current frame, forks and wheelset, and swap everything over, but I'm still looking at over $1500+ or so for the Yelli frame, new forks, wheelset, and miscellenous stuff that won't swap over and will have to get new. :madman:


as has been noted on this forum a lot (incl this thread), the sun ringle charger pros use an eyeletted version of the Flow rims, and are a stiff and reliable wheelset...and light...for $440 or so including US shipping.

since i'm usually riding my yelli with guys on 6 inch FS bikes, i'd say it gets ridden pretty hard & the 120 mm tapered ST reba does a good job...and I say that as someone who really notices when component stiffness is compromised. Bike climbs and descends well at 120 mm travel (which is what Chris Canfield mostly rides w/ this frame btw).

but yeah, going w/ the fox 34 will up your build cost.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

FM said:


> My .02c.
> If you hit jumps and drops, 120mm goes pretty quick if the landings lack a tranny.
> I have (had?) a talas, and nearly never use the travel adjust, but do use the lock-out.
> Climbing on the yelli is different than your transam (or my AM curtlo). The bigger wheel and tire means far better traction, so you don't need to move your weight around so much to keep the bike hooking up on climbs. This is one of the things I really like about the 29'r. You can climb out of the saddle more often if you like, stand and mash, run your bars higher if you want, not lower your fork etc. and not worry about the rear wheel spinning.
> ...


Thanks for the advice, definitely helps since you're coming from the same type of AM 26er background as myself.



frorider said:


> as has been noted on this forum a lot (incl this thread), the sun ringle charger pros use an eyeletted version of the Flow rims, and are a stiff and reliable wheelset...and light...for $440 or so including US shipping.
> 
> since i'm usually riding my yelli with guys on 6 inch FS bikes, i'd say it gets ridden pretty hard & the 120 mm tapered ST reba does a good job...and I say that as someone who really notices when component stiffness is compromised. Bike climbs and descends well at 120 mm travel (which is what Chris Canfield mostly rides w/ this frame btw).
> 
> but yeah, going w/ the fox 34 will up your build cost.


I've been reading up on the Sun Ringle Charger Pros, definitely a good candidate, the price is great. How loud is the hub on the wheelset? Anything like the Hope? Building up the Hope/Flow wheelset via Chainreaction is like $550 plus I might get hit with customs, and around $650 from Universalcycles.com. :madman:

If I decide to go ahead with this project, I think I'll just get the Sunringle Charger wheelset (another cool thing is they come with all of the adapters, unlike Hope hubs) save a few pennies, and go for the better fork.

I've been looking into Reba 29er or the new Revelation 29er but after discounts both are around $700-800 and both are Dual Air. Had a Dual Air Rockshox Pike 454 and hated it, I could never setup the negative air correctly and would prefer something simple like the Fox Float, might even up for a 32 Float if it comes to that.


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## pdxsteve (Jul 15, 2008)

*Yelli RAW*

Someone requested a close up of the raw. I hope you can see the texture in the finish, it looks pretty sweet in person. Group buy, had a buddy pick mine up at the Canfield warehouse in Salem (that's Oregon, boy).


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I just don't think there was a "wrong" choice of color with these frames. They are all poppin fresh.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That raw looks great!


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## Peter Leo (Aug 23, 2011)

Looks like a nice frame in silver.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Have you tried it at 120mm?

*No. Mine came set at 140mm and I left it there. No desire to change it. The bike handles great, manuals great and climbs great. I set it up with a zero rise stem with no spacers under it and a low rise bar to keep the front end down. When climbing really steep stuff I stand and get weight over the front, otherwise I sit & spin. *

This being my first 29er, is 140mm too much for such big wheels?

*Not in my case. YMMV*

Should I be looking at a travel adjust fork like a Talas?

*Travel adjust is not something I would use just because I dont like fiddling with stuff while I ride. I dont lock out my fork for climbs or drop my seat on the downs.*


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Man that raw is MONEY!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Thanks for the reply jeffw-13. :thumbsup:

Posted the TransAM for sale on Pinkbike, let's see if there's any interest, fingers crossed.

Also started browsing online for forks and stumbled upon the 2012 Rockshox Revelation XX 140mm 29er (a little more AM focused than the XC Reba 29er I think), looks promising as well, I can get one for a little for $700, not too bad, and 20mm Maxle ftw versus all the 15QR 29er forks I've been finding. Although I'm still not 100% sold on the Dual Air.

And still have been going over sizing in my head. I watched a couple of jeffw-13's videos and that bike looks very well proportioned on him, with us being almost the same height. Osty is 6'1" and the frame disappears under him in this picture and I'm quite taller. The Large after all might be on the small size, especially with the 18" seattube. ATM, I have about 11 inches or so of exposed seatpost on the 19.5" seattube of the TransAM.

Thinking out loud an XL frame with a 50mm Thomson stem, Sunline V1 flat bars, and zero spacers under the stem might be the ticket for me.

So far, thanks for all the help and suggestions, I know my questioning can get a bit annoying at times, especially around new builds lol.


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## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)

Anyone running their Yelli at 34x19 single speed? I'd like to try this ratio with my raw frame that came in this week. I have a 19t cog but will need to order a 34t ring (and xtr m960 crankset). I was wondering if there will be enough clearance.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

Yes, been running my Yelli 34x19 for a while. The front ring just clears the chainstay. When I say just, I really mean just.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I'm running 32x19 with a tensioner on mine. I have XT cranks and if I mount the chainring in the middle ring position it just clears the chainstay but if I mount the chainring in the outer position on the crankset there is plenty of clearance. So that's an option depending on what you're using for a crankset.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

slsl123 said:


> I'm running 32x19 with a tensioner on mine. I have XT cranks and if I mount the chainring in the middle ring position it just clears the chainstay but if I mount the chainring in the outer position on the crankset there is plenty of clearance. So that's an option depending on what you're using for a crankset.


You have a bottom bracket spacer on the drive side?


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I have a blackspire stinger that takes the place of the drive side bb spacer.


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## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)

martin_uk said:


> Yes, been running my Yelli 34x19 for a while. The front ring just clears the chainstay. When I say just, I really mean just.


What crankset are you running?


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

wrhxc said:


> What crankset are you running?


I am just tried assembling with one spacer on the drive side and my 32t Salsa ring hits the chainstay yoke.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

OneBadWagon said:


> I am just tried assembling with one spacer on the drive side and my 32t Salsa ring hits the chainstay yoke.


This is my set up w/ a 32th Gammutt race ring; XT cranks 175mm, E13 1x guide BB mount, hope BB.
I run my ring on the inside of the crank (where a middle ring would go) 
I also use the standard BB spacer that comes w/ the BB as well as the BB mount chainguide.
That combo spaces the ring out far enough w/ no worries about clearence. 
I have wondered from time to time (since I ride in very prominent rocky areas) what will happen when I bend a ring.
Anyway, my chainline seems good and I also have noticed the clearence issues w/ different ring manufacturers. I.E., I had a Rennen 32th ring and it is noticabley thicker and had clearence issues as well as a Renthal ring I had.
All rings I have tried have been 32th.
The two that seem to work the best for me is the Gammutt and the Raceface single ring.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

XTR960 - middle chain ring position


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

osty said:


> This is my set up w/ a 32th Gammutt race ring; XT cranks 175mm, E13 1x guide BB mount, hope BB.
> I run my ring on the inside of the crank (where a middle ring would go)
> I also use the standard BB spacer that comes w/ the BB as well as the BB mount chainguide.
> That combo spaces the ring out far enough w/ no worries about clearence.


Ugh... I have the same ring and cranks. Was really hoping I could get by with only 1 spacer on that side.


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

I haven't seen many pics of the new painted orange and green Yelli's. Whats everyone's take on them? Seems like the stealth options are the most popular. Nice builds everyone. Who has the lightest Yelli so far? It would be nice to so the range that most people are building to. Keep those pics coming.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Mine will be pretty light. Pics later in the week. :thumbsup:

I was pretty torn between green and raw. I've had a few bikes that I stripped and polished before so I figured this time I would let somebody else do the work.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

my large comes in alittle under 27lbs.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Can the frame accept a bolt-on hub like the Hope Pro 2 or even bolt-thru option with 135x10mm nutted axle? Or is it only QR? Thanks!


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Can the frame accept a bolt-on hub like the Hope Pro 2 or even bolt-thru option with 135x10mm nutted axle? Or is it only QR? Thanks!


yea, I use a bolt on hope pro2 evo, but I find that I have to completely remove the drive side bolt to take off wheel. The washer on the bolt doesn't clear my der. (traditional style xt med cage). 
Don't know if other der. have that issue though


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ Thanks for the quick reply, that's excellent to hear. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the Fox 34 fork. It's down to either that fork or the Revelation 140 fork and still debating sizing. 

Chris and some are saying XL should be primo for my height, but comparing geo, ETT, and reach, the L Yelli is spot on to my L TransAM.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

No worries! I pretty pumped about the new for as my float 120 is starting to hate life now 
I probably have pushed it past it's intended use, but I got it at a steal and it's a 2011 rlc.
It has developed more play than usual in the slider/stanchion tube area and is now making some nice creaking noise after hitting a 4-41/2 ft drop about 5 times today.
I have hit some pretty big drops on it, did 2 real DH races on it, a super d and various bike parks that are around where I live.
Can't complain as it still works fine, just noisy now


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

*And FYI, anyone looking to unload a L or XL frame in black or gold anodized (top 2 choices), I'll gladly buy your used goods. *


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## m-dub (Apr 22, 2005)

osty said:


> yea, I use a bolt on hope pro2 evo, but I find that I have to completely remove the drive side bolt to take off wheel. The washer on the bolt doesn't clear my der. (traditional style xt med cage).
> Don't know if other der. have that issue though


My king hub ( with fun bolts) is worse. I have to pull the rear der. off to yank the wheel because the bolts get bigger as they are removed ( the threaded end is larger than the step that rides in the drops.) But in Canfields defense; I have had to do the same on my Nomad and other bikes with that hub. Worth the stiffness to me.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I built mine with a vassago fork to see what it weighed.
Xl purple ano
Odis fork, 
Hadleys/ flows with tubeless ikon rear and ardent 2.4 front
cane creek hs
Raceface turbine bars
Thomson 90mm
Thomson 410mm post
Sette rez ti seat
Xt cranks
Surly 19t

24.5 via bathroom scale method


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

m-dub said:


> My king hub ( with fun bolts) is worse. I have to pull the rear der. off to yank the wheel because the bolts get bigger as they are removed ( the threaded end is larger than the step that rides in the drops.) But in Canfields defense; I have had to do the same on my Nomad and other bikes with that hub. Worth the stiffness to me.


AW DAM! I completely agree w/ you about the stiffness:thumbsup:
I had for a short time some Easton Havens w/ the QR rear and I could feel a difference. But I didn't like those wheels very much the more time I spent on them.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

OneBadWagon said:


> I built mine with a vassago fork to see what it weighed.
> Xl purple ano
> Odis fork,
> Hadleys/ flows with tubeless ikon rear and ardent 2.4 front
> ...


24.5, that's awesome!
My build is;
L, frame silver 
XT crank, cassette, rear der., rear shifter
KMC x9sl chain
thomson 410 seatpost and 90mm stem
easton haven carbon bar
Cane creek 110 HS
hope pro2 evo's on flow rims w/ dt db spokes and sapim brass nipps
wtb Devo slt seat
ODI grips
Ardent 2.4 f/r set up tubeless
gammutt race ring 32th
e13 1x guide
hope BB
Crank brothers candy 3 pedals
salsa qr seat clamp
fox float 32 120mm fork, qr15

mine is alittle under 27lbs. on shop scale exactly like that, So 24.5 is crazy light:thumbsup


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

OneBadWagon said:


> I built mine with a vassago fork to see what it weighed.
> Xl purple ano
> Odis fork,
> Hadleys/ flows with tubeless ikon rear and ardent 2.4 front
> ...


How do you like BB height with the rigid fork and those tires?
Any pics?


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

osty said:


> 24.5, that's awesome!
> My build is;
> L, frame silver
> XT crank, cassette, rear der., rear shifter
> ...


That was rigid SS. I put my reba on there, so I'm sure it is 26 now.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Hurry up with the pics OneBadWagon.


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## chillindrdude (Jan 21, 2004)

got a black ano on order...

i'm planning on building it more for xc/lightweight race...anyone running a Niner carbon fork on theirs?


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Holy crap this is a fun bike.
It's still a bit of a frankenbike build but I'm really diggin' it.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

perttime said:


> How do you like BB height with the rigid fork and those tires?
> Any pics?


I built it on Saturday and left town for work on Sunday so I only have a few rides around the neighborhood.

What I can say so far:

It feels like I'm riding a bike 2 sizes too small... in a great way. The bike looks tiny compared to the Access XCL frame that most of the stuff came from. Lost almost 2" of wheelbase.
With the rigid fork, the front end felt heavy, the bike felt very carve-y (LOL) around the neighborhood, the bottom bracket was VERY low. I was dragging my flip flops constantly with 175mm cranks.
Right now I have a Zero Stack headset on the bike, so I may go to an IS tapered headset to get a few more MM of stack height under the HT. I REALLY want to ride the Niner fork on this frame, but not if I can't keep my feet off the ground while riding.
I'll be home tomorrow evening, so pictures and ride reports soon. I'm so excited that I can barely contain myself.

I just realized that doesn't sound very positive, but I assure you that it is. I had a blast flying around the neighbor hood jumping off of stuff and railing corners.

Just a heads up, the IS brake mount on my frame wasn't drilled correctly. I had to file the holes a little bit to get them to line up with any of my adapters plates.

I didn't get to ride it with the 100mm Squishy fork on it yet. I'm going to try to get some miles on the Reba before I give the Marzocchi 120mm a shot.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

OneBadWagon and humanpackmule, how tall are you for the XL frames?


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

6'5"


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

I'm 6' 3"
That stem is about 90mm


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Raced the shenandoah 100 on my yelli yesterday. I saw one other one in the lineup...anybody here? Front end was a bit light on the steep singletrack climbs but the downhills were sure awesome with my reba 140.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

eurospek said:


> OneBadWagon and humanpackmule, how tall are you for the XL frames?


Im 6'3" running a 70mm stem.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Damn, that purple anodize looks good there, Humanpackmule. I hope Chris takes note and gets another order of them in that color in L and XL.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

RandyBoy said:


> Damn, that purple anodize looks good there, Humanpackmule. I hope Chris takes note and gets another order of them in that color in L and XL.


And I would be so ever grateful if gold ano would also make a comeback fairly soon.









As badass as the purple ano looks, I'm having a hard time picturing a good color scheme with parts. And after owning a glow-in-the-dark green On-One 456 Summer Season frame, I'm not ready for another "look at me" frame color.


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Thanks, the purple looks better in person. Depending on the light you can see shades of blue and red in it. I love it.

Yeah, it's a "in you face" color. As much as I really like bright-loud-strong color I find myself looking at it and saying "wow, I'm riding that." lol


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

eurospek said:


> As badass as the purple ano looks, I'm having a hard time picturing a good color scheme with parts. And after owning a glow-in-the-dark green On-One 456 Summer Season frame, I'm not ready for another "look at me" frame color.


Purple and white is a pretty easy option. I have some gold on there, but I'll end up dialing it back. I have a gold stem, but decided 70mm is too long and will be replacing it with a white twenty6 stem. And the Joplin 4 is a constant headache, so I'm not too far from pulling a Thomson out of the parts bin.

I've never had a flashy bike before, so the novelty is fun.


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## chowdapilot (May 30, 2005)

If anyone is looking for a raw XL, mine is available in the classified section. Please PM me if interested.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm just had my duster rims powdercoated white and I think they'll be going back on this bike, just have to figure out what rear hub I want to run.

That fork is going back on the Lenz, and the Marzocchi will have the steerer cut to a reasonable length. LOL. Looking for an appropriate white stem and seatpost, but I don't think I can give up the Thomson. Maybe I'll dig up a silver one in the classifieds.

I measured the BB height as 11.5" with a sagged Reba @ 100mm.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

OneBadWagon said:


> I'm just had my duster rims powdercoated white and I think they'll be going back on this bike, just have to figure out what rear hub I want to run.
> 
> That fork is going back on the Lenz, and the Marzocchi will have the steerer cut to a reasonable length. LOL. Looking for an appropriate white stem and seatpost, but I don't think I can give up the Thomson. Maybe I'll dig up a silver one in the classifieds.
> 
> I measured the BB height as 11.5" with a sagged Reba @ 100mm.


The Barney bike is dope. The profile shots of the YS really show off the bike's unique geo. Can you tell us which gear ratio you have on there that allows such a minimal push up with the tensioner? Also, I had a lot of trouble with the dished out dropouts and my bolt-on tensioner, so I had to go the Surly Singleator route. Which tensioner are you using?


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm using a Sette tensioner that has been "clearanced" to fit those burly dropouts. It's a 32x19 with a half link in the chain. It probably would work without the tensioner, truthfully.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Just arrived medium raw. 4.5 lbs on the postal scale at my office (without the seat clamp). The finish is kind of... patchy. _I'm_ not disappointed in any way but I figured I'd mention it for others that haven't purchased yet. Some areas are shinier with the brush marks, other areas just have a dull gray under the clear (looks like areas they missed). Again, Its fine with me, I love it. Kinda looks like a gray/silver camo. Thanks to bikerbob.com, a really good guy to deal with.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Some of you may recall I'm currently riding a motobecane ti frame. Its been great to me. But I had a laugh to myself a few minutes ago as I squeezed the dropouts of the yelli together with my hands and remembered doing the same a few days ago to the moto ti frame. One of them barely moves, the other will keep going until you get scared you'll bend it permanently. Guess which is which.


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

92gli said:


> Just arrived medium raw. 4.5 lbs on the postal scale at my office (without the seat clamp). The finish is kind of... patchy. _I'm_ not disappointed in any way but I figured I'd mention it for others that haven't purchased yet. Some areas are shinier with the brush marks, other areas just have a dull gray under the clear (looks like areas they missed). Again, Its fine with me, I love it. Kinda looks like a gray/silver camo. Thanks to bikerbob.com, a really good guy to deal with.


The Semi-polished finished is meant to be this way- with a lot of brush strokes in the polish.
Let see that thing built up-


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Let see that thing built up-


Can you call my boss and make up some story about why I need to leave early ? I already tried "My grandmother dropped acid and highjacked a schoolbus full of penguins." He didn't buy it.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

Update: First trail ride = Great success. Due to a problematic rear brake, it was only 6 miles or so, but I had a great time.

I purposefully set out to ride the trails that annoyed me the most with my other bike. Tight, and twisty with trees everywhere, and not so little old me piloting the new bike. I was able to negotiate much of the trail with ease, where my Access 23" frame is making me dive deep and really, really square off the corners. I'm not quite happy with the riding position as of now, but I've got some time and spare stems to help get it dialed in.

For those curious about the weight, I took it up to the LBS and tossed it on the scale. 24.89lbs

XL Yelli
Reba RLT 100mm (something silly like a 9" steerer)
race face turbine riser bars
a buttload of spacers
thomson 90mm x4 stem
oury grips
tektro auriga / juicy 5 brakes and 160mm rotors
FC M-760 crankset
flows/hadleys
ardent 2.4 front/ Ikon exo rear tubeless
Sette Rez Ti seat
thomson post
surly 19t rear cog
cheapo Candy pedals


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

Lookin' for some help here...

I was giving the YS a tune up this evening and noticed that the chain is rubbing on the inner side of the seat stay / chain stay junction. This is happening just beyond the top of the cassette, so I don't think the derailer hanger is the issue. I tightened the cassette a little, but that didn't change anything. The axle is fully seated in the dropouts. I checked the chain stretch, the chain is shot (ordered a new one), but I have a hard time believing that this is the issue. Has anyone experienced this?

Thanks for any tips anyone may have.

HW


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

HighWest said:


> Lookin' for some help here...
> 
> I was giving the YS a tune up this evening and noticed that the chain is rubbing on the inner side of the seat stay / chain stay junction. This is happening just beyond the top of the cassette, so I don't think the derailer hanger is the issue. I tightened the cassette a little, but that didn't change anything. The axle is fully seated in the dropouts. I checked the chain stretch, the chain is shot (ordered a new one), but I have a hard time believing that this is the issue. Has anyone experienced this?
> 
> ...


Better order new cassette and ring gears too if the chain is shot. otherwise, you are just wasting your time with a new chain on old gears.

What brand of rear hub are you running? How about taking a picture instead of a 1000 words of what you are seeing?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

HighWest said:


> Lookin' for some help here...
> 
> I was giving the YS a tune up this evening and noticed that the chain is rubbing on the inner side of the seat stay / chain stay junction. This is happening just beyond the top of the cassette, so I don't think the derailer hanger is the issue. I tightened the cassette a little, but that didn't change anything. The axle is fully seated in the dropouts. I checked the chain stretch, the chain is shot (ordered a new one), but I have a hard time believing that this is the issue. Has anyone experienced this?
> 
> ...


Its not the chain. My frame has <1mm of clearance between the chain and the seatstay welds. I took a 1mm hex key and it couldn't pass through the space without encouragement.

I have 1x10 with sram xx cassette and a sram 10 speed chain. If it was a 9 speed chain the chain links would be even closer to the frame. If my cassette had a 12t high gear it would be rubbing constantly. I'm going to run it as is, hopefully it won't scrape too much. I'm not in the 11t that much anyway.

The bigger issue, which I gave up on last night, is the fact that my derailleur won't even drop the chain on to the 11t. I guess I'm going to have to shim the derailleur out. Maybe the hanger that was on the frame when it shipped is wonky. I'll mess with that tonight.

I also had the brake mount hole issue. Taking a dremel to a brand new frame isn't cool. So far this isn't going well.

Well, one thing went smoothly. I have 2.5mm of clearance between my gamut chainring and the chainstay with 1 BB spacer on the drive side, so the chainline is OK.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

92gli said:


> Its not the chain. My frame has <1mm of clearance between the chain and the seatstay welds. I took a 1mm hex key and it couldn't pass through the space without encouragement.
> 
> I have 1x10 with sram xx cassette and a sram 10 speed chain. If it was a 9 speed chain the chain links would be even closer to the frame. If my cassette had a 12t high gear it would be rubbing constantly. I'm going to run it as is, hopefully it won't scrape too much. I'm not in the 11t that much anyway.
> 
> ...


Size and color of your frame? Is this brake mount issue limited to just this most recent run of frames? So it is sounding like building up Hadley single Speed rear hub as a 6 speed 34-17 on a SRAM990 cassette would be big problems with clearance on this frame?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

RandyBoy said:


> Size and color of your frame?


Look up a few posts.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

HighWest said:


> Lookin' for some help here...
> 
> I was giving the YS a tune up this evening and noticed that the chain is rubbing on the inner side of the seat stay / chain stay junction. This is happening just beyond the top of the cassette, so I don't think the derailer hanger is the issue. I tightened the cassette a little, but that didn't change anything. The axle is fully seated in the dropouts. I checked the chain stretch, the chain is shot (ordered a new one), but I have a hard time believing that this is the issue. Has anyone experienced this?
> 
> ...


If I understand, it rubs when the chain is on the smallest, far right cog on the cassette?

I've seen that happen. One is that the dropout are thicker, and protrude toward the cassette more than the last frame the wheel was in. The other is that the "lock nut" spacing of the hub is slightly less than 135mm by a silly mm or two.

Try a washer added between the "lock nut" and frame to see if that solved it. Then you can sometimes add that washer to the hub axle, sometimes not; the other option is to file off enough of the dropout to clear the chain. You can also adjust the derailleur to not use that smallest cog on the cassette if you never really ride in that gear.


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## canyonrat (Oct 24, 2006)

Highwest, I also have extremely close clearance between my smallest cassette cog and the seatstay weld above the dropout. I have a 12-36 SRAM 1070 10-speed set up 1x10 with an LX crank and an MRP BB mount guide, no extra bb spacers. I was concerned about the cassette clearance when I built it up, but decided to just go with it. Talked to Chris Canfield on the phone about it and he said it is intended to be tight. IMHO sort of like the front chainring clearance, I would like to see it be about 3mm at least but it seems to function ok. I only have one ride in on mine so I just know it was not actively scraping with new gear and clean chain. I also had the rear brake mount holes off just enough so I had to "encourage" my magura adapter screws into their holes...did not have to resort to dremel.

On the "chain is shot" issue...if you have ridden the chain a lot and it has stretched/worn in, it is possible that if it wore in on the center cogs mostly that the small cog and chain are now not meshing properly. So if you had <1mm clearance before, you would have no clearance and scraping if the chain is not seating down properly on the cog.

Randyboy, this frame barely fits a spec 10-speed cassette, so if the 6-speed-on-SS-hub setup requires anything wider than a standard geared hub would need you would be SOL.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

I experienced the same stuff building mine. The rear caliper mount didn't line up with the bolts on my caliper and I had to file/dremel to get the caliper mounted, and my chain rubs the weld at the base of the seatstay at the rear dropout when in the 11t cog on the cassette. Running new SRAM 9speed chain and 11-34 cassette.


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

Thanks for the experiences everyone. 

slocaus and canyonrat, thanks for the tips. I'll try both of those.

I'm having the same situation slsl123, when in the small cog the chain is hitting the weld at the base of the seatstay at the rear dropout. And I'm running the same configuration. I’m going to call the brothers and see if it’s okay to dremel some of that weld material off. I’ll let y’all know what they say.

The funny thing is, this frame built up like a breeze in the spring. I've put a few hundred miles on it and never noticed the issue until now. I just put on a BB-mount Blackspire Stinger, so maybe that is contributing.


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

I had the rear brake mount issue as well but I got the brake bracket to tighten up without breaking out the dremel. Wasn't sure if it was going to make it but it did.

I'm running a 9 speed cassette (11-34) and the clearance is tight on mine but I have no chain rub.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

humanpackmule said:


> I had the rear brake mount issue as well but I got the brake bracket to tighten up without breaking out the dremel. Wasn't sure if it was going to make it but it did.


I would dremel the holes a bit to relieve the pressure. If not that pent up pressure might eventually crack the mount weld or one of the adapter bolts. No way mine was going to let me muscle through it, something would have snapped.


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

Regarding the chain rub issue, from Chirs:

Sounds like the weld is a little high- Should be no problem to remove a bit of the weld to clear the chain.

So, I'll try that in combination with a new chain that should sit down on the cassete better. Then move on to a spacer in the axel, if needed.

Thanks again,
HW


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Mostly done. Needs a few adjustments, especially a longer brake line which is in route.

Solved my problem with the derailleur not shifting down to the 11t - My dumb ass forgot to shorten the chain and the derailleur was binding. Thats why you don't work on bikes when you're tired folks ! All good now :thumbsup:

Rode it around the neighborhood last night for only a few minutes. Funny thing happened, besides moving the seat up since the pic was taken, everything fell exactly where it needed to be. With the straight post and a 90mm stem it fits like a glove, literally. Its obviously worlds stiffer than the fly ti and feels a lot more playful. Need the rain to stop now !! 

I'm getting 23lb, 9 ounces on the scale here at work. (weight with old wheel, probably a little over 24 now)


















parts -
reba rlt 100mm
fr. wheel - 355 w/ ztr hub 15mm, captain contol 2.2
rr. wheel - arch w/king, fun bolts, fast trak control 2.2
forte carbon 680mm bars and post
bontrager rxl stem
specialized avatar expert saddle
salsa clamp
elixir cr carbons 160 f+r
cane creek 40 HS
xt cranks w/ 32t gamut ring
mrp keeper
XX cassette
X9 shifter and derailleur
shimano 540 pedals


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Damn 92GLI .........that came out nice. Really light too! Let us know how your liking it once the rain lets up for a bit.


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## humanpackmule (Aug 3, 2010)

Looks good.
I need to weigh mine as well.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Nice one 92GLI!

If I recall correctly, you are from the Philly area, right? If so, and if this rain ever stops, I can't wait to see you on the trail. I have been rolling a 2.1 Ignitor in the rear of my YS and it works well while shaving 250gm off the set up I used to have.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

buddhak said:


> If I recall correctly, you are from the Philly area, right? If so, and if this rain ever stops, I can't wait to see you on the trail. I have been rolling a 2.1 Ignitor in the rear of my YS and it works well while shaving 250gm off the set up I used to have.


Yup, west chester. Hope to ride wiss asap, if there's anything left of it. Just saw a video of the creek shot yesterday, not good.


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## J Ro (Jan 13, 2004)

92gli said:


> Yup, west chester. Hope to ride wiss asap, if there's anything left of it. Just saw a video of the creek shot yesterday, not good.


I know, I saw that picture too. I hope to get out and help get the Wiss trails ready soon.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

J Ro said:


> I know, I saw that picture too. I hope to get out and help get the Wiss trails ready soon.


Ya mon. It will take an army of busy hands to repair this mess. My 3 year old has pledged his support already.


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## J Ro (Jan 13, 2004)

92 gli - sick build. looks like the perfect weapon for The Wiss!


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## J Ro (Jan 13, 2004)

buddhak said:


> Ya mon. It will take an army of busy hands to repair this mess. My 3 year old has pledged his support already.


nice! :thumbsup:


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

checking weather... more rain coming. Trying to be responsible and not go out on wet trails today. This is hard.



J Ro said:


> looks like the perfect weapon for The Wiss!


Yeah, I think so. :ihih: Went for another cruise around the neighborhood last night. Carving around the landscaping features and what not. Still can't believe how spot on the fit feels.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

92gli said:


> checking weather... more rain coming. Trying to be responsible and not go out on wet trails today. This is hard.


Why don't you drag her out to Tamaqua tomorrow for the Coal Cracker? The Yelli will thank you. So will the Wiss.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

buddhak said:


> Why don't you drag her out to Tamaqua tomorrow for the Coal Cracker? The Yelli will thank you. So will the Wiss.


Have a family obligation unfortunately.

Got a short ride in at brandywine today, stayed on the dryer trails as much as possible. It wasn't too bad.

I love this thing. It just feels so right. The best part is log piles, it just launches itself up and over so easily. As for climbing the steep stuff, it doesn't get disturbed at all when getting out of the saddle.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

92GLI - Nice build. The polished really looks sweet. Reminds me of the old polished GT Zaskars I couldn't afford back in the 90's. I also went 1x9 with mine. I had an MRP 1x I was going to use but I found I haven't needed it (yet). I went with a short cage sram x7 rear derailleur and a Blackspire 32t ss chainring up front, and shortened the chain as much as possible. I haven't dropped a chain yet and there is virtually no chain slap. I'm really happy about that because I'm coming from singlespeed and enjoyed the silent drivetrain. For me, the nicest thing about this frame so far is the comfort. Looking at this frame I was worried it was going to be a little harsh. Not so. Running the same wheel/tire combo I have for years, I find this frame to be far more compliant vertically than either my old Raleigh XXIX or my On One Scandal. I don't know if it because of the greater exposed seatpost length, slacker seat tube, or frame material/design but it's significantly more compliant. Not blown away by the handling yet but I still haven't gotten my riding position dialed in yet. I've gone to a 70mm stem from a 90mm and went with a wider bar as well. I'm sure once I've adjusted to the changes and get more confident this thing will rip.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Anyone know if there are any tapered steerer tube forks that won't fit in the Yelli's short headtube? Specifically, older Reba RLTs?


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

Slurry said:


> Anyone know if there are any tapered steerer tube forks that won't fit in the Yelli's short headtube? Specifically, older Reba RLTs?


WHAT?


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## 12snap (Mar 11, 2004)

Slurry said:


> Anyone know if there are any tapered steerer tube forks that won't fit in the Yelli's short headtube? Specifically, older Reba RLTs?


As long as the steerer tube on the fork is long enough, it'll work on the Yelli.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

I was just thinking about forks with tapered sections that were too long for really short headtubes. Good to know that the canfield will clear everything.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

My Yelli rebuilt w/ a Fox Float 34 travel reduced to 120mm.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Sick!!! Did you even try it at 140mm or went straight to 120mm? How do you like the fork? Did it live up to its hype?


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

LOL! I put it on at 140mm and rode around the area and the steering was too slow for my taste since I do use the bike for long distance XC riding with some steep climbs so I just went ahead and reduced the travel.
I originally had a 120mm float on it in the first place; which was fine for me.

I haven't had it on any trails yet, but I can feel a substantial difference in fore and aft flex; almost feels like there is none!

Almost feels like there is no play between the sliders and stanchion tubes as well. Maybe that will change when i put a good thrashing on it?

Other than that, feels as smooth as my other float just alot all around less flexy:thumbsup:


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Here's an unusual coincidence... 3 canfields meet in Newark, DE. The ones on the rack belong to a cool couple from maryland.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ How do you like it at 100mm? Nice pic.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

92gli said:


> Here's an unusual coincidence... 3 canfields meet in Newark, DE. The ones on the rack belong to a cool couple from maryland.


THAT IS AWESOME:thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Are those purple handlebar tassels on the white one? That's frickin' hilarious if it is.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

92gli said:


> Here's an unusual coincidence... 3 canfields meet in Newark, DE. The ones on the rack belong to a cool couple from maryland.


Is that White Clay/Middle Run? Riding those FS Canfields there is like bringing a bazooka to a knife fight. Just saying.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

buddhak said:


> Is that White Clay/Middle Run? Riding those FS Canfields there is like bringing a bazooka to a knife fight. Just saying.


Yup, white clay.


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

Hey was nice running into you 92gli. 
And yes Buddhak is correct our ONEs are like 10x more bike than you need for White Clay
but on the other hand, it pedals so well we did 16 miles and never broke a sweat, so why not?
This pic shows your ride a bit better...


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

My wife thinks it goes great with the Canfield skull  at first I thought she was joking when she said she wanted some but as you can see, she's for real. And yes, she rides the daylights out of the One, we've been to Snowshoe, Whistler and Kingdom Trails and she rode them all. 
I was real proud of her at White Clay as she powered up the big hill at the church at the very end of the ride, its really not much of a hill till you ride 15 miles before you hit it, when you're 60 years old.



car_nut said:


> Are those purple handlebar tassels on the white one? That's frickin' hilarious if it is.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Don't get me wrong. Everyone wants to be the dude with bazooka.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

crossup said:


> Hey was nice running into you 92gli.
> And yes Buddhak is correct our ONEs are like 10x more bike than you need for White Clay
> but on the other hand, it pedals so well we did 16 miles and never broke a sweat, so why not?
> This pic shows your ride a bit better...


Damn. I did 15 and you guys were gone when I got back to the lot.  :thumbsup:


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

I love the "his" and "hers" The ONES. Awesome bikes. Ive been following your ONE a bit. Nice build CROSSUP. I would love to have a dual crown bike that light. How have you been liking your ELKA?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

crossup said:


> My wife thinks it goes great with the Canfield skull  at first I thought she was joking when she said she wanted some but as you can see, she's for real. And yes, she rides the daylights out of the One, we've been to Snowshoe, Whistler and Kingdom Trails and she rode them all.
> I was real proud of her at White Clay as she powered up the big hill at the church at the very end of the ride, its really not much of a hill till you ride 15 miles before you hit it, when you're 60 years old.


Awesome :thumbsup:


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

Hehe, did you dirty- we rode the (orange?) loop and moved the car to Judge Morris lot 
So it actually took us almost 2 hours to do the 16 miles and we 'discovered' the undocumented ' no fee' parking lot we were looking for. FWI, its off the road going to the Bird Sanctary and is next to some of the fastest and flowy trails as well as the most technical stuff (IRC, Possum Hollow trails)



92gli said:


> Damn. I did 15 and you guys were gone when I got back to the lot.  :thumbsup:


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

I love the Elka(very easy to dial in) but its taking me a while to get used to suspension this gushy...way more plush than my 12" travel MX bikes. But the great news is the Canfield just does NOT pedal bob no matter how soft the suspension is, so no down side to the gush 



gollub01 said:


> I love the "his" and "hers" The ONES. Awesome bikes. Ive been following your ONE a bit. Nice build CROSSUP. I would love to have a dual crown bike that light. How have you been liking your ELKA?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Quick update to my upcoming Yelli build (or 2012 Banshee Paradox lol), as I still can't make up my mind. 

So I bought a 2011 Rockshox Reba RLT Ti 120mm Tapered 29er 20mm Maxle fork today for $375 shipped from the Mtbr Classifieds, looks brand new, 2 rides on it only before the owner exchanged for a 2012 Fox 32 Talas for the travel adjust on his Niner Jet 9 RDO. :thumbsup:

Pretty stoked on the purchase as originally I was planning on either a 2012 Fox 34 Talas for close to $1K or 2012 Fox 32 Talas/Float F29 for slightly less. But since my current hardtail is over-forked IMO for where I ride (36 Float 160mm on the TransAM), I needed to be realistic and cut back on the fork budget and was looking at the 2011 Rockshox Reba RLT Ti 140mm or 2012 Revelation 140mm forks, both of which would probably needed to be spaced down to 120mm anyway. These substantial savings leave room for a Hope/Flow wheelset after all and a quick spreadsheet shows that this build will be less than $500 after the TransAM's parted out. Winning.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

eurospek said:


> ^ How do you like it at 100mm? Nice pic.


I think its pretty close to ideal for what/how I ride. Its hard to say right now, 3 rides in, but I have a feeling it will stay this way. A little more pedal clearance would be nice but I don't want the climbing balance I have right now to go away.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Where are all the green and orange new builds? I have yet to see one built up. Post 'em up guys!!!


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Hey Chris,

Any XL demo's looking for a riding home?


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## el_chupo_ (Nov 15, 2005)

eurospek said:


> Quick update to my upcoming Yelli build (or 2012 Banshee Paradox lol), as I still can't make up my mind.
> 
> So I bought a 2011 Rockshox Reba RLT Ti 120mm Tapered 29er 20mm Maxle fork today for $375 shipped from the Mtbr Classifieds, looks brand new, 2 rides on it only before the owner exchanged for a 2012 Fox 32 Talas for the travel adjust on his Niner Jet 9 RDO. :thumbsup:
> 
> Pretty stoked on the purchase as originally I was planning on either a 2012 Fox 34 Talas for close to $1K or 2012 Fox 32 Talas/Float F29 for slightly less. But since my current hardtail is over-forked IMO for where I ride (36 Float 160mm on the TransAM), I needed to be realistic and cut back on the fork budget and was looking at the 2011 Rockshox Reba RLT Ti 140mm or 2012 Revelation 140mm forks, both of which would probably needed to be spaced down to 120mm anyway. These substantial savings leave room for a Hope/Flow wheelset after all and a quick spreadsheet shows that this build will be less than $500 after the TransAM's parted out. Winning.


whats the deal on the paradox updates? I cannot find any info!


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I guess I just don't have this magic gear thing figured out on this frame. I was having some frustration with my tensioner, so I tried the 32x21 magic gear only to find that there isn't much magic involved.










This chain has two rides on it. I'm almost a half link off. I don't get it.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

el_chupo_ said:


> whats the deal on the paradox updates? I cannot find any info!


Try this thread in the Banshee forum, titled "Paradox updated for 2012"


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## el_chupo_ (Nov 15, 2005)

evasive said:


> Try this thread in the Banshee forum, titled "Paradox updated for 2012"


Yeah... You didnt actually read the thread, did you?

It has no information other than Eurospek's confirmation email, other than updates are expected in the next month or two. Dealers dont know yet either.

more info is helpful!

Thanks though, I appreciate the link :thumbsup:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

el_chupo_ said:


> Yeah... You didnt actually read the thread, did you?
> 
> It has no information other than Eurospek's confirmation email, other than updates are expected in the next month or two. Dealers dont know yet either.
> 
> ...


Of course I read it, and I realize there are only broad descriptions of the updates. But if you want more information on the Paradox, why not ask in that thread?


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

OneBadWagon said:


> I guess I just don't have this magic gear thing figured out on this frame. I was having some frustration with my tensioner, so I tried the 32x21 magic gear only to find that there isn't much magic involved.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is that a L or an XL? Looks like it needs gears, or a Rohloff hub.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

It's an XL, and I hate gears.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

OneBadWagon said:


> It's an XL, and I hate gears.


Hate is such a waste of energy... I think maybe a Nimble Nine works better with SS, it does have the sliders out back. I know that 32 x 21 was the magic gear on my AIR 9.

Oh well... nice color, lemme know if you think it will look better in my bike rack than yours this winter. :thumbsup:


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

RandyBoy said:


> Hate is such a waste of energy... I think maybe a Nimble Nine works better with SS, it does have the sliders out back. I know that 32 x 21 was the magic gear on my AIR 9.
> 
> Oh well... nice color, lemme know if you think it will look better in my bike rack than yours this winter. :thumbsup:


Heh, Actually, I hate fussing with stupid derailleurs that get wacked in transit, on the trail, etc. I'm so used to single speed that I don't know what to do with myself on my FS 1x9.

The nimble 9 isn't made in an XL, or I probably would have bought one just to make my life easier on the SS front. I'm just a little let down, as it's advertised that 32x21 is magic. I'll try it with a brand new chain, but holy crap that's a lot of slack.

If you're on the fence about a Yelli, then that means you have thought a lot about the claims of "fun, flickable," etc. I'm loving mine!


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

OneBadWagon said:


> Heh, Actually, I hate fussing with stupid derailleurs that get wacked in transit, on the trail, etc. I'm so used to single speed that I don't know what to do with myself on my FS 1x9.
> 
> The nimble 9 isn't made in an XL, or I probably would have bought one just to make my life easier on the SS front. I'm just a little let down, as it's advertised that 32x21 is magic. I'll try it with a brand new chain, but holy crap that's a lot of slack.
> 
> If you're on the fence about a Yelli, then that means you have thought a lot about the claims of "fun, flickable," etc. I'm loving mine!


I'm not on the fence... just not looking forward to tearing down my Large WFO frame and selling it to fund a Yelli.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

OneBadWagon said:


> I'm just a little let down, as it's advertised that 32x21 is magic. I'll try it with a brand new chain, but holy crap that's a lot of slack.


Have you measured your chainstays carefully and used this magic gear calculator?
http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php

Often, the actual dimensions on a frame are different than the manufacturer specs and those of other users, due to manufacturing tolerances.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

slocaus said:


> Have you measured your chainstays carefully and used this magic gear calculator?
> http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php
> 
> Often, the actual dimensions on a frame are different than the manufacturer specs and those of other users, due to manufacturing tolerances.


I have a tensioner, and with a 32t ring, the closest thing to a magic gear was 32:19 and it was a little bit loose.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

OneBadWagon said:


> I have a tensioner, and with a 32t ring, the closest thing to a magic gear was 32:19 and it was a little bit loose.


The closest magic gear combo often relies on different size chainrings. It's nice when it works out with a standard 32t ring, but don't count on it

Have you tried any of your gear combos with a half-link?


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

boomn said:


> The closest magic gear combo often relies on different size chainrings. It's nice when it works out with a standard 32t ring, but don't count on it
> 
> Have you tried any of your gear combos with a half-link?


32:19 a hair loose with a half link, 32:20 a bit tight with a half link, 32:21 illustrated above.

with Shimano cranks, getting lower than a 31t ring is basically impossible, and with the yelli, I'd have to start moving the crank outboard to use a larger ring.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

OneBadWagon said:


> I have a tensioner, and with a 32t ring, the closest thing to a magic gear was 32:19 and it was a little bit loose.


I saw that, it just seems you are trying to get something cleaner. A BB tensioner was mentioned by @perttime, but I find no posts that someone has tried one. The Yess ETR/B is really clean, but a little more money.










The new ERT/D is nice as well, not that yours is not ok, if it is fine with you.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Jeez, y'all, what's the problem with using a Surly or Sette derailleur hanger mount tensioner? OneBadWagon, if 32:19 is close, and you like the ratio, spring for the $12 Sette tensioner and use a couple of zip ties around the chainstay and tensioner arm to pull up the chain until the slack is taken up (no need to make it tight, just free of slack). Use 2 zipties for redundancy. Carry spare zipties in case of catastrophe. Viola - ghetto fabulous. But the **** works. Personally, I don't like the idea of the Yess BB mount tensioner. The amount of times I whack my chainring and rear tire on log-overs/obstacles makes me cringe at the thought of a BB mounted Stinger-style tensioner. There is a thread on MTBR about one rider's experience with such a tensioner that, while positive, confirms my fears about such a set-up.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Jeez, y'all, what's the problem with using a Surly or Sette derailleur hanger mount tensioner? OneBadWagon, if 32:19 is close, and you like the ratio, spring for the $12 Sette tensioner and use a couple of zip ties around the chainstay and tensioner arm to pull up the chain until the slack is taken up (no need to make it tight, just free of slack). Use 2 zipties for redundancy. Carry spare zipties in case of catastrophe. Viola - ghetto fabulous. But the **** works. Personally, I don't like the idea of the Yess BB mount tensioner. The amount of times I whack my chainring and rear tire on log-overs/obstacles makes me cringe at the thought of a BB mounted Stinger-style tensioner. There is a thread on MTBR about one rider's experience with such a tensioner that, while positive, confirms my fears about such a set-up.


Yeah, we're all well aware that there are tensioners available. Including ones like the singleator that use a spring that wears out and often skips under hard loads.

In fact, if you look at the picture that I posted, you might notice that my Sette tensioner is actually in place on the derailleur hanger, just moved out of the way while I was test fitting the chain.

FWIW, I had to butcher the Sette tensioner to get it to do anything in push up mode due to its shape and the burliness of the Yelli's dropouts. No biggie, the tensioner is cheap, but at the moment, I'm not enthused about it too much.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

woot! Just finished building my Medium Black. 
Thanks goes out to 92gli and bikerbob!
Mine came in at 26.1 pounds with a 2x9 set up.
Reba 29er at 100mm
XT Cranks, Front Derailleur, Cassette, shifters
XTR rear derailleur
RaceFace 685mm carbon handlebar
Thomson X4 50mm stem
Thomson masterpiece seatpost
Santa Cruz seatpost clamp.
It might gain a little bit more weight since I'm planning on putting a dropper seatpost on it but I'm going to get some lighter pedals and rotors so maybe it'll be a wash.

Won't be able to ride it till Friday at the earliest. Can't wait.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

OneBadWagon said:


> Yeah, we're all well aware that there are tensioners available. Including ones like the singleator that use a spring that wears out and often skips under hard loads.


Ah. Well I guess my Surly Singleator didn't get the memo. It has been working ace since the Spring under all kinds of riding condition, and has never skipped. And it is a used model. BTW, you are using the wrong Sette tensioner - they make a Singleator clone. The zip ties allow you use the Sette/Surly without relying on the spring. But, hey, G, if you want do things the hard way and machine your very own frankentensioner, then go ahead and innovate.


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## Chato Fan Club (Feb 28, 2011)

*Guest bike*

Built up at the weekend. Medium Yelli for short visitors. Cables still to be sorted bash/chainguide to be fitted.

NN 2.25 on rear and 2.35 on front. Not much space between the rear tyre and the FD. Looks like I'll need to get something much smaller for UK mud. What are other folks using as a mud tyre on the rear?


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Conti mtn king 2.4 works great in the UKs Surrey Hills and still plenty clearance


----------



## Chato Fan Club (Feb 28, 2011)

*rear tyre - FD clearance*

Thanks wobbem. I'll take a look at the Conti. The 2.25 NN I put on was fully inflated (freshly set up tubeless) and it was rubbing against the FD. Let some air out and it just clears.

Anyone know if there is any difference in clearance between the 2012 XT FD and the older direct mount version?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That build looks great Chato Fan Club. Very nice.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

BTW, any clearance issues with running the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 in the rear with a 1x9 setup? What are other good 29er big volume tires in 2.3 or 2.4?


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## Chato Fan Club (Feb 28, 2011)

eurospek said:


> What are other good 29er big volume tires in 2.3 or 2.4?


I use Purgatory 2.4's on my RIP - they are big. I haven't tried them on the Yelli for fit yet though.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

I haven't tried the Ardent 2.4, but the Purgatory 2.4 2Bliss I've been using for the last year hasn't left me feeling the need to be curious about anything else. Tread is a hair over 2.4" on a 28mm rim, casing about 2.2", 800g, tall and solid lugs, UST bead, and rolls surprisingly well

Schwalbe has the Nobby Nic 2.35 and soon the Hans Dampf 2.35 too.

The Weirwolf LT is coming back this fall but with real sideknobs and what appears to be the same 2.3" casing size as before. If this one still rolls as well as the previous version it should be a good combination

Speaking of casing, if volume is what you're after then many of the low tread 2.2" options actually have casings almost as big if not the same size as the meatier options that are rated bigger only because of taller side knobs. For example, the Captain 2.2 I got recently appears to be the same casing as used on the Purgatory 2.4


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Chato Fan Club said:


> Thanks wobbem. I'll take a look at the Conti. The 2.25 NN I put on was fully inflated (freshly set up tubeless) and it was rubbing against the FD. Let some air out and it just clears.
> 
> Anyone know if there is any difference in clearance between the 2012 XT FD and the older direct mount version?


Where is it rubbing?
Did you cut off the bottom half of the FD arm for more clearance?

See this for reference-->http://forums.mtbr.com/7363011-post133.html


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

boomn said:


> I haven't tried the Ardent 2.4, but the Purgatory 2.4 2Bliss I've been using for the last year hasn't left me feeling the need to be curious about anything else.


Also loving the 2.4 Purgatory. I was gonna run something less knobby for the dryer summer conditions but just left them.


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## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

Chato, 

What are you going to use for your bash/chainguide?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> Did you cut off the bottom half of the FD arm for more clearance?
> 
> See this for reference-->http://forums.mtbr.com/7363011-post133.html


I've been wondering about different FDs myself. I have a SLX and I had to cut the arm off to fit a WTB Stout. That's about the limit for me- there's very little space (maybe 2mm) between the tire and the FD cage. Looks like the XT has better clearance.


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## Chato Fan Club (Feb 28, 2011)

pwu_1 said:


> Where is it rubbing?
> Did you cut off the bottom half of the FD arm for more clearance?
> 
> See this for reference-->http://forums.mtbr.com/7363011-post133.html


That's where it is rubbing. Thanks. I'll think about getting the hacksaw out.


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## Chato Fan Club (Feb 28, 2011)

aflax said:


> Chato,
> 
> What are you going to use for your bash/chainguide?


I am running 2X10. I have an MRP 2X waiting to go on.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

eurospek said:


> BTW, any clearance issues with running the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 in the rear with a 1x9 setup? What are other good 29er big volume tires in 2.3 or 2.4?


I'm running Ardent 2.4's on Flows. Plenty of clearance to the frame. Minimal clearance to the FD cage when in the granny gear.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Ah. Well I guess my Surly Singleator didn't get the memo. It has been working ace since the Spring under all kinds of riding condition, and has never skipped. And it is a used model. BTW, you are using the wrong Sette tensioner - they make a Singleator clone. The zip ties allow you use the Sette/Surly without relying on the spring. But, hey, G, if you want do things the hard way and machine your very own frankentensioner, then go ahead and innovate.


I'm going to say it again very plainly. That tensioner skipped under load FOR ME.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

eurospek said:


> BTW, any clearance issues with running the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 in the rear with a 1x9 setup? What are other good 29er big volume tires in 2.3 or 2.4?


That is the exact setup I run with no problems at all; not even close.:thumbsup:


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

Woot! Just ordered the last medium frame in purple, i can't wait to build it up


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Here's a little review my friend Noah did. Great pics !

Grape Koolaid: A Canfield Yelli Screamy Review (With Stoke!)


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

OneBadWagon said:


> I'm going to say it again very plainly. That tensioner skipped under load FOR ME.


That's the FIRST time you mentioned it happened to you. I'm not an idiot, you are just not being clear. Did you have the Surly pushing down or up? The skip is a chainwrap issue first and foremost. Also, relying on the spring is unnecessary, and who wants to carry a cone wrench around? Zip ties work to bring the arm up to the chainstay in place of the spring. In any case, you are obviously not interested in hearing about this particular working solution, so I post this here for others trying to run their YS as a SS. Best of luck to you.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

gollub01 said:


> Here's a little review my friend Noah did. Great pics !
> 
> Grape Koolaid: A Canfield Yelli Screamy Review (With Stoke!)


That guy Noah gets my face melting seal of approval


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

That's a great review, but he really needs to use something other than an Exiwolf before talking too much about the bikes capabilities


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

car_nut said:


> I'm running Ardent 2.4's on Flows. Plenty of clearance to the frame. Minimal clearance to the FD cage when in the granny gear.


Thanks and glad to hear this. I plan on Flows/Hope wheels or the Sun Ringle Charger Expert, but probably going to go with the former. :thumbsup:


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

gollub01 said:


> Here's a little review my friend Noah did. Great pics !
> 
> Grape Koolaid: A Canfield Yelli Screamy Review (With Stoke!)


Yeah, great review and pics. :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

So quick question, as I'm starting to buy parts for this build, I will be running 1x9 for sure, and I like the MRP Lopes SL Chain Guide that FM is running for example. 

With this guide, can I also run a BBG or Race Face thin style aluminum bash guard as well? Or no room for it? Probably won't need it as I can't remember the last time I ever smashed into something with my current bash.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

buddhak said:


> That's the FIRST time you mentioned it happened to you. I'm not an idiot, you are just not being clear. Did you have the Surly pushing down or up? The skip is a chainwrap issue first and foremost. Also, relying on the spring is unnecessary, and who wants to carry a cone wrench around? Zip ties work to bring the arm up to the chainstay in place of the spring. In any case, you are obviously not interested in hearing about this particular working solution, so I post this here for others trying to run their YS as a SS. Best of luck to you.


If someone says that a product isn't for them, isn't that good enough for you? I've used Surly tensioners and the like before, and had bad luck with them, hence the choice to use something else. What did you think I was founding my distaste for on? I personally don't think that carrying zip ties with me on a ride is all that grand of a solution. Will it work? Sure. It's nothing new, in fact, it's been around for a very long time.

I appreciate your input, and I know that there are thousands of people that are tickled pink with their surly tensioner. It's just not for me.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Re-usable zip ties.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

eurospek said:


> So quick question, as I'm starting to buy parts for this build, I will be running 1x9 for sure, and I like the MRP Lopes SL Chain Guide that FM is running for example.
> 
> With this guide, can I also run a BBG or Race Face thin style aluminum bash guard as well? Or no room for it? Probably won't need it as I can't remember the last time I ever smashed into something with my current bash.


Should be OK. I use that guide with a Stylo SS crankset with bash.










When I shift to the outer limits of the cassette the chain rubs the MRP guide. I separated the two halves and sandwiched a couple presta valve nuts in between.No more rub.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Chato Fan Club said:


> Built up at the weekend. Medium Yelli for short visitors.


When can I come over ? Thats one seriously nice loaner. My size too. :thumbsup:


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

buddhak said:


> Jeez, y'all, what's the problem with using a Surly or Sette derailleur hanger mount tensioner?
> ...
> The amount of times I whack my chainring and rear tire on log-overs/obstacles makes me cringe at the thought of a BB mounted Stinger-style tensioner.


There's nothing particularly wrong with a tensioner in the rear. My older SS bike has the Rennen tensioner, and the non-spring-loaded thing just works.

My other SS bike has the Stinger on an ISCG mount. It works too. I have some slack chain there, so the Stinger is well tucked in between chainring/bashring and rear tyre. I often go over some logs that are tall enough to reach the bashring, and then some, and the Stinger has not got in the way. You'd have to go over some pretty sharp edge before it could reach there between bashring and tyre.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

gollub01 said:


> Here's a little review my friend Noah did. Great pics !
> 
> Grape Koolaid: A Canfield Yelli Screamy Review (With Stoke!)


Dude rips.

I lol'd at this guy's comment - _"you're obviously killing it on that road bike.."_


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

gollub01 said:


> Here's a little review my friend Noah did. Great pics !
> 
> Grape Koolaid: A Canfield Yelli Screamy Review (With Stoke!)


A bloody great review, the guy sums it up all so well but has bigger balls. And on a 100mm fork

Still did my first gap jump today, so stoked did it twice








Then did a drop,my fault didn't check it out first, went over the bars and I think I've cracked a rib:madmax:


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Nice gap WOBBEM. Yeah Noah rides that thing like his DH bike ! I think that will inspire alot of yelli owners. The bike is capable ! Best part about Noah is you wouldn't even suspect it, he's such a nice guy ! Keep killing it buddy !


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

I was able to pick up the last purple frame and after two rides I absolutely love it!


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

With the exception of the Formula brakes on there way i think i finally have my YS dialed in.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Awesome purple build tkblazer and that Yelli looks great on the 1UP Quik Rack, I love mine and can't wait till I have a built Yelli in the back of mine.


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

That would be three yelli owners with 1up racks!


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

tkblazer said:


> That would be three yelli owners with 1up racks!


Make it 4! I've been preaching the gospel at every trailhead when somebody asks about the rack.


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

Same here, one friend bought one already and another is going to order it


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Finally placed an order for a black ano XL frame. Super stoked!!!









Decided on the XL because it's roughly only an inch bigger in reach and ETT from my 19.5 Transition TransAM 26er, which in all honesty is on the smallish side of things. Plus the 18" ST on the L Yelli was too short when I compared where my seatpost extension was on the TransAM. Planning on running a 50mm stem.

Definitely thanks to Chris and Sean for answering all my emails (I know I can be quite annoying lol) and just a great company to deal with and an awesome buying experience. :thumbsup:

For those interested, here are some geo number that I've been going over and over since I started planning for this build to compare with my bike, the Yelli, Paradox and new TransAM 29er.


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## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

eurospek,

good to hear, I ordered my M black ano frame a couple days ago


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

****


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

How come I haven't seen any green or orange Yelli builds? Am I blind or something?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

bluestatevirgin said:


> How come I haven't seen any green or orange Yelli builds? Am I blind or something?


I'm wondering the same thing.


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

its something in the koolaid


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Finally placed an order for a black ano XL frame. Super stoked!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! about time. LOL!


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

I have a green xl on order and want it right now


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## jdusto (Dec 8, 2009)

*Another new Yelli Screamy out in the world*

Size: L
DT: Shimano XT 3x10
FK: RockShox Reba RLT Ti 29er 140mm
BK: Avid Elixir R SL (185/160)
WH: SUNRingle Charge Pro 29er UST
TR: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 29x2.4, Continental Race King 29x2.2
BR: Spike 777 Evo
HS: CKing Inset Tapered
ST: Easton Havoc 50mm
SP: Thomson Elite 410mm
SD: WTB Rocket V Pro
PD: CB Crampon

Build weight: 27.0 lbs

The path was not easy. The first frame I received had a bad rear IS tab (holes drilled improperly). The second frame has a chainstay length tolerance out of spec and you couldn't mount a tire at the same time with a FD and have the tire clear.

After a long phone conversation with Chris a deal was stuck. I would drive down from Seattle and meet him in Salem (where their warehouse is located) and either a) he would take my build kit and get it working on one of their frames or b) I would get a check for $700 + my expenses coming down there.

Yes, below is a Chris Canfield assembled bike with a some additional comp on it for my troubles. I could ***** about my troubles but I am not going to. This frame is singular in the market which is why I was determined to make a transaction work even though after two bad frames I was $200+ in LBS labor and without a bike to show for it.

This weekend I hope the weather holds so I can get to really know this new ride.

Note: For the large frame the clearance is very tight between the rear tire and the backside of the hinge of the front derailleur. The max tire width you can run is a 2.2 or a 2.25. Chris told me his brother was running a 2.5 Nevegal but I checked and the largest Nev is 2.25 in a 29er. To gain extra clearance we removed the plastic guard over the hinge spring.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

jdusto said:


> Size: L
> DT: Shimano XT 3x10
> FK: RockShox Reba RLT Ti 29er 140mm
> BK: Avid Elixir R SL (185/160)
> ...


Glad it worked out for you... and that Chris went to bat for you... not surprised he'd do that, at all. Hell of a nice guy, the time I met him.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

Hey Jdusto,
you are going to love that bike for seattle area trails.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

eurospek said:


> Finally placed an order for a black ano XL frame. Super stoked!!!


Wow! Cool. You've certainly done your homework. I'm looking forward to seeing your build.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

jdusto said:


> Note: For the large frame the clearance is very tight between the rear tire and the backside of the hinge of the front derailleur. The max tire width you can run is a 2.2 or a 2.25. Chris told me his brother was running a 2.5 Nevegal but I checked and the largest Nev is 2.25 in a 29er. To gain extra clearance we removed the plastic guard over the hinge spring.


I found the same thing. I have a WTB Stout - labeled 2.2 on 32mm rims. The tire is just barely off the FD cage. There's still plenty of clearance within the frame, though.

I miss running bigger tires at lower pressures, and when the Minions are available, I'll be really tempted to try them on the YS, too. For that to work, the FD has to go. Not sure I'm ready (i.e. strong enough) to commit to 1x9 yet. I can climb most of our trails here with a 32t chainring, so maybe that'll be a push to get stronger. On the other hand, I won't bother with a new crankset, so I suppose I could just leave the 22t ring in place for times I think I want it badly enough that I'm willing to move the chain by hand.


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## jdusto (Dec 8, 2009)

I just got a Specialized Purgatory 2.2" Control 29er tire I am going to try out when I get a chance *** fingers crossed ***. If it successfully clears in the rear then I will be putting a 2.4" up in the front.

JD


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

The 2.2 Purg is a big tire. It's nearly as big as the 2.4 Ardent I run in front on my Stumpy.


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

im doing purg 2.4 front and rear with a 1x10 setup, should work right?


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

yxan said:


> im doing purg 2.4 front and rear with a 1x10 setup, should work right?


Thats exactly what I'm running, love it.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ Did you ever try the Maxxis Ardent? If so, how does it compare?



evasive said:


> Wow! Cool. You've certainly done your homework. I'm looking forward to seeing your build.


Thanks, frame shipped today!! :thumbsup:


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## jdusto (Dec 8, 2009)

I tried Maxxis Ardents on my 26er for a while looking for a tire which had the ability to carver around corners but had less rolling resistance than Kenda Nevegals. Its not a bad tire but its not a very good wet or loose terrain tread (at least in my experience). Once I replaced my other wheel set with Tiago Psycho Genius, the rims with the Ardents mounted on them just gather dust.



eurospek said:


> ^ Did you ever try the Maxxis Ardent? If so, how does it compare?
> 
> Thanks, frame shipped today!! :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Where you guys buying the Spec Purgatory 2.4 tires online? Seems Specialized only stocks them in that size, I was hoping not to pay msrp lol.


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Where you guys buying the Spec Purgatory 2.4 tires online? Seems Specialized only stocks them in that size, I was hoping not to pay msrp lol.


specialized is only thru the dealer, but often times good dealers have some specials and what not which can get you a good deal, but specialized tires are cheap compared to maxxis and schwalbe I think.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

yxan said:


> specialized is only thru the dealer, but often times good dealers have some specials and what not which can get you a good deal, but specialized tires are cheap compared to maxxis and schwalbe I think.


Cheap in what way? Price, quality, durability?


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

RandyBoy said:


> Cheap in what way? Price, quality, durability?


i think you get a lot of tire for the money. so that would be in price , quality being high.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Yeah, idk about them being cheaper, I can find 2.4 Ardents for much less online than the Spec tires.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

I got mine through their website. They are definitely worth the money IMO. Work great tubeless, grippy, excellent in wet conditions, high volume, and durable... all that and theyre moderately light too.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

FM said:


> I got mine through their website. They are definitely worth the money IMO. Work great tubeless, grippy, excellent in wet conditions, high volume, and durable... all that and theyre moderately light too.


Unfortunately when ordering from specialized.com you're paying their inflated shipping prices and tax as well if they have a "concept" store in your state. Luckily I'm near the concept store in DE. No tax, no shipping, and they give 10% off when you buy 2 or more accessories/parts and it comes to over $100. I probably wouldn't fluff their tires as much if I couldn't get them the way I do.


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## jmountain (Jun 11, 2011)

The Canfield warehouse is in Salem, Oregon??? That's where I live....


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Is it possible to run a BB mounted Blackspire Stinger with a 2x drivetrain? 

Still deciding if I want to run 2x9 (22/36T) or 1x9 (32T) with a 11-34 on this thing, but I can't remember the last time I used my big ring on the TransAM. 

And why does the MRP Lopes guide have to be so damn expensive for what it truly is? What benefits are there running it over the regular MRP 1x guide or E13 XCX?


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

FM said:


> I got mine through their website. They are definitely worth the money IMO. Work great tubeless, grippy, excellent in wet conditions, high volume, and durable... all that and theyre moderately light too.


Agree on all points. I have been very happy with the 3 sets I have purchased. :thumbsup:


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Still deciding if I want to run 2x9 (22/36T) or 1x9 (32T) with a 11-34 on this thing, but I can't remember the last time I used my big ring on the TransAM.


I assume you're referring to a standard 3x crank with bash when you say 2x9, given the ratios you mentioned. Please ignore this if you are planning on one of the new dedicated 2x cranks.

You're going to have to play with offsetting the cranks to get the 36t to fit. When you design for big 29" tires and short stays, there's no real estate left. The stays are designed to accommodate a 32t ring in the middle position of a typical 50mm chainline crank. Even a non-ramped 32t gets a little too close for comfort.


----------



## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

Car_Nut thanks for the reminder, I spoke to Chris about this - he said nothing bigger than a 32 in the second ring. Building my now a really want a 2x up front, trying to figure out the best options...


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

car_nut said:


> I assume you're referring to a standard 3x crank with bash when you say 2x9, given the ratios you mentioned. Please ignore this if you are planning on one of the new dedicated 2x cranks.
> 
> You're going to have to play with offsetting the cranks to get the 36t to fit. When you design for big 29" tires and short stays, there's no real estate left. The stays are designed to accommodate a 32t ring in the middle position of a typical 50mm chainline crank. Even a non-ramped 32t gets a little too close for comfort.


Yeah, I meant 2x9, plan on reusing my SLX cranks. Is there plenty clearance for a single 32T ring for a 1x9 then without running into clearance issues?

And what about the difference between the regular MRP 1x guide and the Lopes, is the bottom roller guide that important to justifty the $70 or so price difference?


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Yeah, I meant 2x9, plan on reusing my SLX cranks. Is there plenty clearance for a single 32T ring for a 1x9 then without running into clearance issues?
> 
> And what about the difference between the regular MRP 1x guide and the Lopes, is the bottom roller guide that important to justifty the $70 or so price difference?


Define plenty  32t is fine. 34t is most likely a no go without offsetting the cranks. I can't speak to the differences in chain guides. I wanted to go 1x9 but stuck with 2x9 when I saw the prices for guides.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Revalimage said:


> Car_Nut thanks for the reminder, I spoke to Chris about this - he said nothing bigger than a 32 in the second ring. Building my now a really want a 2x up front, trying to figure out the best options...


Are you referring to a dedicated 2x crank? I believe Chris said some specific versions of them would fit since the larger ring is further outboard than the middle ring in a 3x.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

So I took a little road trip from North Texas to Denver. Today was my first mountain bike ride on an actual mountain, and I have to say that the mountain served me my ass on a platter. In a very good way!

I love this bike. I am not as fond of the 7500' learning curve that I just got a dose of. As it turns out, my cycling shoes are capable of walking just fine.

Centennial Cone near Golden, CO.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

OneBadWagon said:


> So I took a little road trip from North Texas to Denver. Today was my first mountain bike ride on an actual mountain, and I have to say that the mountain served me my ass on a platter. In a very good way!
> 
> I love this bike. I am not as fond of the 7500' learning curve that I just got a dose of. As it turns out, my cycling shoes are capable of walking just fine.
> 
> Centennial Cone near Golden, CO.


Colorado will do that to a flatlander. 12250 feet on the Colorado Trail at Molas Pass put the hurt on me too.

Nice! More pics please! Did you have enough rotor on your brakes with your weight and the steepness of the hills to avoid overheating your brakes? Someday, I hope to find the time and $ to build me an XL Yelli in purple, but I may have to get one of the newer colors in Orange or Green.


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

RandyBoy said:


> Colorado will do that to a flatlander. 12250 feet on the Colorado Trail at Molas Pass put the hurt on me too.
> 
> Nice! More pics please! Did you have enough rotor on your brakes with your weight and the steepness of the hills to avoid overheating your brakes? Someday, I hope to find the time and $ to build me an XL Yelli in purple, but I may have to get one of the newer colors in Orange or Green.


I'm not a big fan of brakes. They're only there to slow ya down! This bike absolutely FLEW down the hills. The only way I'd have gone much faster is with a 44t up front. I didn't have to use the brakes much, but when I did they were more than capable. These are the Magura Louise BAT's from chainlove.

I could have seriously used a JATO pack or something. I'll check Jenson for that now.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

My frame arrived today, looks badass in black ano. The finish and welds look great, can't wait to get it built up finally. Definitely lighter than my Transition TransAM. :thumbsup:


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Great! Cant wait to see it built. Sounds like youve put a lot of thought into it


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

jdusto said:


> Note: For the large frame the clearance is very tight between the rear tire and the backside of the hinge of the front derailleur. The max tire width you can run is a 2.2 or a 2.25. Chris told me his brother was running a 2.5 Nevegal but I checked and the largest Nev is 2.25 in a 29er. To gain extra clearance we removed the plastic guard over the hinge spring.


I have run a fd with my 2.4 ardent mounted on stans crests. The arm that you aren't using needs to get cut off. Not much clearance but it works. The cable end might have been rubbing a tiny bit.


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## SoCalNomadRider (Jan 15, 2011)

What is a good option for a chain guide running truvativ noir cranks 1x9 on my YS ? I like the direct mount but major coin and apparently most b.b. mounted ones will not work with my noirs. Thanks


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

SoCalNomadRider said:


> What is a good option for a chain guide running truvativ noir cranks 1x9 on my YS ? I like the direct mount but major coin and apparently most b.b. mounted ones will not work with my noirs. Thanks


Will be looking into this myself over the next few days. I have the mrp 1x keeper but I'm having the chain whipped off the bottom of the ring. If I don't notice right away the chain is getting wedged between the guide and chainring. It would actually be easier for the chain to fall off completely than to have to pull the chain like crazy to get it out. I need something with a bottom roller...

Had this happen a few times with my last bike but it was rare, now its happening every ride because I'm pushing this bike a lot harder.

Edit - I think the lopes guide might be the one.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Quick update for you 1x guys -

Since I already had a new mrp top guide, and I didn't want to buck up for the lopes, I decided to just get a $30 blackspire stinger and experiment.

After cutting a small relief in the bracket where it was hitting the machined part of the chainstay/bottom bracket junction, I was able to set it up so that it would be pretty rare to hit the roller against anything. It could possibly be contacted if I was climbing over something 12" tall with a perfectly square edge, but it would be a one in a thousand chance.

Took it out to the choppiest place I ride yesterday and it was flawless. No more chain coming off the bottom of the ring and there's no added noise or shifting issues. The only adjustment was that the cable needed a bit more tension once the added pressure was on the chain. Half a turn of the adjuster and it was perfect

Today I'm going weight weenie on the bracket because its totally overkill. Cutting off a decent amount all around the perimeter. I also flipped around the roller. One side is a straight edge and the other is angled. It runs smoother in the lower gears with the angled edge towards the inside.

Is the roller supposed to be closer to the ring ? It works fine like this so I'm thinking its ok.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ That's a great idea!!! Much better than the $120+ guides like the MRP Lopes.

*For anyone looking for a Medium silver ano frame, there's one on eBay currently.*

CANFIELD BROTHERS YELLI SCREAMY - 29er / 29" Size: MED - NO RESERVE - VGC! | eBay


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

I'd put the roller closer to the chainring. On my singlespeed, I have the roller kissing the bashring.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

I just put this on today. I was using the E13 XCX guide, but got tired of destroying my chainring on rocks etc. 
Yes I live on the BEAST COAST!!!


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

another pic of it all assembled


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Awsome looking Osty!


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## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)




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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

that color looks sweet


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Figure I'd update this Yelli build of mine as it's not complete yet. Ended up returning the black ano frame to the Canfield Brothers (which was awesome of them to do btw :thumbsup after needing the build funds for an unexpected car repair. But when the car was fixed, I was soon regretting ever sending it back. :nono: I said I would wait until spring to order again, hoping for some new colors, but an opportunity arose while being in the Classifieds one day and I'm the proud lucky owner of a gently used purple anodized XL frame, that came bundled with the Cane Creek 40 headset (tapered setup) and a Hope QR seatclamp, along with the extra der. hanger. All for $499, saving me quite a bit as well. 

Also scaled back on the wheelset, I wanted Hope Pro 2 Evo / ZTR Flow combo, but couldn't stomach the $693 price from Universalcycles.com custom wheel builder, not to mention needing another $75 or so for Stan's tape, valves, and sealant, along with the Hope front hub adapters. After reading this thread and seeing the results, I purchased a set of 2011 Sun-Ringle Charger Expert 29er wheels for $310 shipped from AEbikes.com, ready to rock tubeless right out of the box, including adapters. Plus the rim profile is more stout than a ZTR Flow and the freehub sounds almost the same as a Hope, but quieter.









Most of the parts for the swap are here finally, still waiting on a few bits and pieces. And got super lucky this morning with a fork purchase as well. I was contacted by a member looking to unload his 2012 Rockshox Revelation RLT 140 29er (after seeing me complain in this thread this morning lol) that he had custom built for him by SRAM for his Banshee Prime, which he is putting on hold at the moment. It's the fork I've been looking all over to get for a while now but only the XX or RCT3 models (similar pricing to Fox 34 $$$) are available for aftermarket purchase for 2012. The Revelation RL or RLT are only available on complete bikes or one must have the sweet hookup at SRAM like that guy did.







Most likely will be dropping it to 130mm or even 120mm. And I guess I have a 2011 Fox F29 Float FIT RLC 120 OE for sale now.

I'll update with complete built pics in a few weeks once I start taking apart my TransAM, but will leave this for now.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

^ Are you going to give the fork a try at 140mm to see how it feels before you drop the travel?

I've read a few reviews on this site, and the extra 20mm seems to work well on the Yelli.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Probably not, I never bottomed out the Fox Float 36 around here or used its all 160mm of travel (but that's a whole other thread lol). I'm thinking 130mm will be the sweet spot for me here. Plus I bought the Revelation 140 more for its stiffness and plushness of travel vs needing a 140mm travel fork.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I'm going to leave the Marz I've got coming on the way at 140 to start. I'm sure it will be great when pointing downhill and in the chunk. Biggest concern is how it will handle on the steep climbs.


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

*Marzocchi @ 140 on yelli Screamy*

Try the Marz at 140, with no spacers under the stem, before you drop the travel.

For a couple of reasons, I don't think you'll want to reduce the travel;

The marz really ramps up at the end of stroke. I have yet to get the last 20mm out of it (although I can, when dropping the air pressure, so it's not the oil level..). So although it's potentially got 140mm of travel, most of us will never get more than 120 without modifications. Turns out there is a BO bumper in the fork that can be trimmed down, but Marz doesn't suggest it.
More travel = more sag = fork doesn't really ride much higher than a 120mm fox.
Long as you get your saddle angle right, the front end doesn't feel overly light or floppy at all with this fork.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Figure I'd update this Yelli build of mine as it's not complete yet. Ended up returning the black ano frame to the Canfield Brothers (which was awesome of them to do btw :thumbsup after needing the build funds for an unexpected car repair. But when the car was fixed, I was soon regretting ever sending it back. :nono: I said I would wait until spring to order again, hoping for some new colors, but an opportunity arose while being in the Classifieds one day and I'm the proud lucky owner of a gently used purple anodized XL frame, that came bundled with the Cane Creek 40 headset (tapered setup) and a Hope QR seatclamp, along with the extra der. hanger. All for $499, saving me quite a bit as well.
> 
> Also scaled back on the wheelset, I wanted Hope Pro 2 Evo / ZTR Flow combo, but couldn't stomach the $693 price from Universalcycles.com custom wheel builder, not to mention needing another $75 or so for Stan's tape, valves, and sealant, along with the Hope front hub adapters. After reading this thread and seeing the results, I purchased a set of 2011 Sun-Ringle Charger Expert 29er wheels for $310 shipped from AEbikes.com, ready to rock tubeless right out of the box, including adapters. Plus the rim profile is more stout than a ZTR Flow and the freehub sounds almost the same as a Hope, but quieter.
> 
> ...


I'll save you all that trouble, just send that XL frame to me. :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

RandyBoy said:


> I'll save you all that trouble, just send that XL frame to me. :thumbsup:


This one's a keeper for sure. Too bad I won't get to ride it this year though. Oh well, gives me time to perfect the build.


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## tkblazer (Sep 18, 2005)

I've got to say that I really love this bike. I've done long 30+ mile rides with tons of climbing, downhill, singletrack and it just excels at it all. It just feels dialed in with my riding style and I don't even feel like riding a ht is holding me back at all. I will definitely be keeping this bike which is rare for me since i usually build a new bike every year.

just a quick picture taken during sunset


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## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

*Almost there...*

Formula RX brakes are on their way. Just a few more parts... I can't wait to get this built up. I might be getting all bike parts for Christmas. It should get built up right after the holidays. I'll post some more when it's done.

Details:
DT swiss M1800 wheelset 
Ardent 2.25(f)/Slant six 2.2(r)
Fox F29 120mm
SLX crankset (plan is to run 2x10 with a bash)
Sunline bar/stem
Shimano M-520 pedals
WTB Silverado saddle
Thomsen seatpost


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

osty said:


> I just put this on today. I was using the E13 XCX guide, but got tired of destroying my chainring on rocks etc.
> Yes I live on the BEAST COAST!!!


How are you liking this setup osty? I bought the MRP Lopes Guide, essentially what you have minus bash for $100, but found a MRP G2 SL Mini for $20 bucks less. Wondering if I need the bash or not lol.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

aflax said:


> Formula RX brakes are on their way.


I run those brakes on my Yelli. You're gonna love 'em :thumbsup:


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

JoshM said:


> I'm going to leave the Marz I've got coming on the way at 140 to start. I'm sure it will be great when pointing downhill and in the chunk. Biggest concern is how it will handle on the steep climbs.


Non issue, your form/tehnique dictates how light or heavy the front end gets. Try sliding your weight up on the nose of the seat, and get your chest down over the bars, bending your arms, and it's a non issue.


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## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

jeffw-13 said:


> I run those brakes on my Yelli. You're gonna love 'em :thumbsup:


They are actually the third set of brakes I've gone through for this build, I wanted formulas, but kept finding deals on other brakes. I went from Magura Louise Bats, to Avid XO to Formulas. I have R1s on my other bike and love them.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> Non issue, your form/tehnique dictates how light or heavy the front end gets. Try sliding your weight up on the nose of the seat, and get your chest down over the bars, bending your arms, and it's a non issue.


This might be the first time I disagree or at least question your thoughts. 

Maybe on a Yelli (or N9), maybe not.

As you have likely seen my posts on the N9 and questions on climbing - I am tall with very long legs and arms, but a very short torso, so I ride the smallest bike I can get that has the correct ETT for me. The result is that I have my saddle high, and with the seat tube angle, it moves my center of gravity back toward the rear wheel and away from the front wheel, so it shifts my weight bias back. High BB bikes make this effect worse, and even with a short fork on some bike, so on steep climbs, saddle nose up my @@@, chest on the stem, the front wheel get light or will actually lift!

So I am fascinated with the Canfield 29er bikes, but worried about if it will work for my body proportions.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

slocaus said:


> This might be the first time I disagree or at least question your thoughts.
> 
> Maybe on a Yelli (or N9), maybe not.
> 
> ...


I hear ya, if you extend a seat post to the max, and have long legs and run a short stem. Plus, I know how steep some of the stuff in here in CA. In my case, it has worked out fine with the exception of the very gnarliest steepest stuff here in CA, I am able to compensate.

YMMV, everyone is built differently, he's on an XL, that should help some for the amount of seat post extended. The Yelli also has a relatively short head tube, too, which may or may not help some.The slackness of the fork with the headtube angle will put the front wheel further out also.


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## slocaus (Jul 21, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> I hear ya, if you extend a seat post to the max, and have long legs and run a short stem. Plus, I know how steep some of the stuff in here in CA. In my case, it has worked out fine with the exception of the very gnarliest steepest stuff here in CA, I am able to compensate.
> 
> YMMV, everyone is built differently, he's on an XL, that should help some for the amount of seat post extended. The Yelli also has a relatively short head tube, too, which may or may not help some.The slackness of the fork with the headtube angle will put the front wheel further out also.


Add in the short chain stays and for me, it might be a wheelie machine. I'd go with a large for the ETT. I just need to get a chance to demo one, but I have been oh so tempted!


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

SLocaus, just my .02c....forget about "_correct ETT_". The geometry- especially the top tube length and seat angles- on many of these hardtail 29'ers is misleading due to the the dog-legged seat tubes. The short-ish seat tube lengths also add to the confusion- but don't upsize!

I've owned some real wheelie-machines over the years, and the yelli isn't one of them- even with the 140 fork. But if you really value climbing performance (over say, ability to wheelie-drop!) the bike still rips with a 120 fork.

With their pricing, it's worth taking a risk- go with whatever size canfield recommends.


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

FM said:


> SLocaus, just my .02c....forget about "_correct ETT_". The geometry- especially the top tube length and seat angles- on many of these hardtail 29'ers is misleading due to the the dog-legged seat tubes. The short-ish seat tube lengths also add to the confusion- but don't upsize!


OK, I have a question about sizing too. I'm 6' and ride a large knolly endo (which fits like a glove) and the geometry of the large Yelli it very close to that of the Endo. Any reason I may want to consider a smaller size Yelli?

Also, anyone have any close up pics of the rear tire clearance of a yelli with a 2.4" rear tire?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ I wouldn't really go smaller. The limiting factor is the relatively short ST on the 18" frame already. Most people your height in this thread are riding the Large if you look through it, even some taller folk as well. And it's been said the bike fits smaller than the geometry leads us to believe. I can't wait to build mine up finally.

And for anyone looking, there's a Large polished frame on Pinkbike.com for sale, along with a complete build black ano frame.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Don't go smaller with these frames, the ETTs ride smaller than the numbers would leave you to believe. For almost a year I was convinced I was getting a small and I'm so glad I got a medium. 
The numbers say this is the longest frame I've had but it doesn't feel like that in the least


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

noosa2 said:


> Also, anyone have any close up pics of the rear tire clearance of a yelli with a 2.4" rear tire?


http://forums.mtbr.com/7548097-post205.html


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## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)

First ride on the trails. I'm pretty happy with the bike!


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## alexkraemer (Jul 30, 2007)

wrhxc said:


> First ride on the trails. I'm pretty happy with the bike!


nice bike! I love my YS as a SS, the geometry lends itself perfectly


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

I'm eyeballing one of these to replace a cracked fisher frame. At 6'2" with a 35" inseam I figure I'm squarely in XL territory, and would probably have enough seatpost out for a 4" dropper post. That sound about right?

I like the looks of the marzocchi 140mm, but to soften the immediate budgetary impact, I'd probably move over the 51mm offset 100mm Fox that is on the Gary Fisher. Anyone have experience with this combo?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

blawson said:


> I like the looks of the marzocchi 140mm, but to soften the immediate budgetary impact, I'd probably move over the 51mm offset 100mm Fox that is on the Gary Fisher. Anyone have experience with this combo?


The Marz Ti is now up on hucknroll for $290. They're obviously blowing them out and you won't find forks this cheap again for a long time.


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

car_nut said:


> The Marz Ti is now up on hucknroll for $290. They're obviously blowing them out and you won't find forks this cheap again for a long time.


I'm having a little trouble explaining to my wife that since my frame is cracked (but rideable, for now), I need a new fork.

She then threatened to cut up my credit card, but I have her fooled, I've got the number memorized!!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

car_nut said:


> The Marz Ti is now up on hucknroll for $290. They're obviously blowing them out and you won't find forks this cheap again for a long time.


Those are awesome prices, which means they might be selling even cheaper on Chainlove in the near future. I noticed this trend with them. Anything that's on sale on Hucknroll sells for even less once it hits Chainlove. $250 forks anyone?

Looks like they still got quite a few of these to go around though.



> Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti Fork - 29in - 2010
> Black/Gold, 140mm/QR15/tpr - Item MRZ0027
> *Inventory Available: 34*
> 
> ...


----------



## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

I have now ridden my yelli with a marz ti 44 at 140 and love the set up, I think it feels just right. I have climbed some steep and loose stuff and I feel no geo restriction riding the bike at 140mm, and like others have said; the stroke on the marz fork is awesome (has sweet progressive action). 

I rode it with a 65mm stem and am now playing with a 50mm stem, bars 745mm, XL frame

me 6'2 with 33" inseam


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

blawson said:


> I'm having a little trouble explaining to my wife that since my frame is cracked (but rideable, for now), I need a new fork.


What year/model is your current Fox? You might be able to sell it and come out even on the Marz.

Big parts like forks are at their cheapest this time of year. This deal on these Marzocchi's isn't something you'll be likely to see again anytime soon.


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## osty (Jul 30, 2011)

eurospek said:


> How are you liking this setup osty? I bought the MRP Lopes Guide, essentially what you have minus bash for $100, but found a MRP G2 SL Mini for $20 bucks less. Wondering if I need the bash or not lol.


I love it! It works VERY WELL!! 
It's nice becasue I don't notice any drag from the lower roller and the lower roller does make alittle more of a diff w/ chain retention and the bash is what I've been needing for when I get tired and don't want to really lift/hop the bike anymore over rocks.
Where I tend to ride alot, we have pretty much a rock garden from start to stop which can cover from 1 mile to 30+; no joke!
Most talk about having baby heads, we have godzilla heads, lol!
But, I like it and would recomend to anyone:thumbsup:


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

alexkraemer said:


> nice bike! I love my YS as a SS, the geometry lends itself perfectly


+1. Yelli is beautifully suited for SS duty. Still loving mine.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JoshM said:


> ^ Are you going to give the fork a try at 140mm to see how it feels before you drop the travel?


My 2012 Rockshox Revelation RLT 140 29er came in today and to my surprise sitting next to the Fox Float F29 120, it's not much higher where the crown is. (I'll snap some pics tomorrow) I was expecting a much taller fork for the 140mm size when I was looking at the Fox 34 fork. Definitely going to start at 140mm when I build this, along with some Sunline V1 762 flat bars to lower the cockpit a bit.

And Rockshox has definitely stepped up their game for 2012, the finish looks superb on it, decals are clearcoated over, and playing around with it, feels much plusher in the travel with less stiction compared to the Fox, and that's just pushing it down, real test will come on the trail. :thumbsup:


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## givemefive (May 26, 2007)

I'm dying to try this frame out but I'm sort of a weight weenie so the 4 and 3/4 lb frame is sort of scaring me off.

I'll probably put a 100mm G2 Rock Shox on it.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Dude, that extra pound in frame weight buys a lot:
Longevity, versatility (140mm forks are ok), peace of mind. The Yelli is a lot of things, but she ain't no pig.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

buddhak said:


> Dude, that extra pound in frame weight buys a lot:
> Longevity, versatility (140mm forks are ok), peace of mind. The Yelli is a lot things, but *she ain't no pig.*


+1111

The other bike I was comparing it to and was looking to buy was the Transition TransAM 29er, and their large 19.5 frame weighs in at 6.5 lbs. :nono:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

eurospek said:


> My 2012 Rockshox Revelation RLT 140 29er came in today and to my surprise sitting next to the Fox Float F29 120, it's not much higher where the crown is. (I'll snap some pics tomorrow) I was expecting a much taller fork for the 140mm size when I was looking at the Fox 34 fork. Definitely going to start at 140mm when I build this, along with some Sunline V1 762 flat bars to lower the cockpit a bit.
> 
> And Rockshox has definitely stepped up their game for 2012, the finish looks superb on it, decals are clearcoated over, and playing around with it, feels much plusher in the travel with less stiction compared to the Fox, and that's just pushing it down, real test will come on the trail. :thumbsup:


Pics as promised. As for weight, the Fox with an 8" steerer was 4.05 lbs, the Revelation with uncut steerer is 4.09 lbs.










https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/eurospek/DSCF4797.jpg

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/eurospek/DSCF4799.jpg

https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/eurospek/DSCF4800.jpg


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

buycole said:


> Hopefully they have a few black mediums left as I have to wait a week to get mine. Can't wait!


Their current stock on the website shows:

Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Black	0
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Gold	5
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Silver	0
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Semi-Polished Silver	0
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Purple	0
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Glossy Green	2
Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Glossy Orange	4


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Their current stock on the website shows:
> 
> Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Black	0
> Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Gold	5
> ...


Ano Black, Orange and Green in stock for XL's


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

givemefive said:


> I'm dying to try this frame out but I'm sort of a weight weenie so the 4 and 3/4 lb frame is sort of scaring me off.
> 
> I'll probably put a 100mm G2 Rock Shox on it.


I went from a 3.5lb ti frame to the yelli. Best pound I ever bought. Its so much stiffer its not even funny.

I have a 100mm reba on mine and I think its the tits. Climbs like a scared cat but still goes faster downhill than anything I've had since a full suspension stumpjumper a few years ago.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I rode mine today with a guy on a FS Stumpy. Waited for him at the top and bottom of the hills


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## mrilo (Mar 23, 2009)

...


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

eurospek said:


> This one's a keeper for sure. Too bad I won't get to ride it this year though. Oh well, gives me time to perfect the build.


:thumbsup:


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

RandyBoy said:


> :thumbsup:


Yeah eurospek, what was the reason you unloaded the Yelli and pickup a TransAM 29er?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

noosa2 said:


> Yeah eurospek, what was the reason it unload the Yelli and pickup a TransAM 29er?


I did a little measuring last night since I finally stuck the Thomson post into the Yelli frame and was pretty unamused with what I found out. The 30.0 x 410 Thomson post (from the TransAM 26er) has about an inch more of usable length than the 30.9 x 410 post and with both posts sitting at the Max line, I'm still sitting taller on the 19.5" TransAM 26er seattube than the 20" Yelli, which defeats the whole point of upgrading to a "bigger" bike.

Looking around at AM HT 29ers, it seems the Canfield stuff and the Kona Honzo are the only ones with an XL frame ST at 20". The Chromag Surface, Transition TransAM, and Banshee Paradox all have longer seattubes for the XL size (21" for the first two and 22" for the Banshee).

I'm just happy to pass along the great deal I got to RandyBoy. 

Guess I should have started first by checking the pdf on Thomson's site regarding the lengths of their seatposts before buying frames, I just figured it to be the same for all diameter sizes and their respective lengths. Guess not.

And as a repeat customer  I ended up getting a great deal from DropNZone on the Transition TransAM 29 frame. :thumbsup:


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

eurospek said:


> I did a little measuring last night since I finally stuck the Thomson post into the Yelli frame and was pretty unamused with what I found out. The 30.0 x 410 Thomson post (from the TransAM 26er) has about an inch more of usable length than the 30.9 x 410 post and with both posts sitting at the Max line, I'm still sitting taller on the 19.5" TransAM 26er seattube than the 20" Yelli, which defeats the whole point of upgrading to a "bigger" bike.
> 
> Looking around at AM HT 29ers, it seems the Canfield stuff and the Kona Honzo are the only ones with an XL frame ST at 20". The Chromag Surface, Transition TransAM, and Banshee Paradox all have longer seattubes for the XL size (21" for the first two and 22" for the Banshee).
> 
> ...


How much $ for the 30.9 x 410?


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

TransAM 29er uses the same size. Thank god.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

eurospek said:


> TransAM 29er uses the same size. Thank god.


That was the first thing I checked when you told me that you were selling the yelli. I was going to try and snag it too. :thumbsup:


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Has anyone set one of these up with a Hadley single speed rear hub run with a cassette with just the spidered portion of the cassette on the SS hub? How is clearance when run with 34,30, 26, 23, 20,17, and possibly 15 tooth on that SS hub with a shimano derailleur in the rear? Type and model of shimano RD I'd need to build it this way? Clearance on chain stays and seat stays Ok too?


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Rep from me for anyone who posts pics of a complete build of the Yelli in Orange or Green. Where are they?


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Rep from me for anyone who posts pics of a complete build of the Yelli in Orange or Green. Where are they?


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Needs to be your own bike, Eurospek. No cheating.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Needs to be your own bike, Eurospek. No cheating.


So much for giving rep. 

Never stated it has to be your own bike. :nono:

Plus those are the only one I've seen built up. And definitely green > orange but anodized finishes > painted Yellis IMO.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

eurospek said:


> So much for giving rep.
> 
> Never stated it has to be your own bike. :nono:
> 
> Plus those are the only one I've seen built up. And definitely green > orange but anodized finishes > painted Yellis IMO.


I'll rep you for some of your other posts I've read and found informative. I'm trying to get some green and oranges out of the woodwork. I like the anodized too. Mine's gold. But I like the anodized for the durability more than the looks. Of them all, I like black best.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Lotta Canfields ending up with Marz Bombers on them, eh?


----------



## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Needs to be your own bike, Eurospek. No cheating.


the green one is mine  so do give him his credit for digging it out.


----------



## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

RandyBoy said:


> Lotta Canfields ending up with Marz Bombers on them, eh?


that fork feels money on the yelli at 140mm


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

yxan said:


> that fork feels money on the yelli at 140mm


Good, I just ordered a black 140mm one with tapered steerer tube to go on my purple XL yelli.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

My build is coming along slowly... going to be a budget build with what I have left around, with a couple of minor exceptions. Yesterday, I called up Gravity Dropper in Poulson, MT, and because of my height and the 20" seat tube, ordered up a 450mm 5"-3" GD in the 30.9 seat tube diameter. I asked if they were running any Black Friday Specials. You'll have to call them yourself to see if any Maniac Monday specials are available on pricing, don't know if they will be maning the phones there on Friday. :thumbsup:

Wheels will probably be a set of Hadley's I have laying around with Sun Rhynolites, 36 holes in the rear.

Fork is an uber deal on the Marzocchi Micro Ti in black and 140mm from Chain Love. 

Not sure yet what I'm going to pilfer off of my Large WFO or if I am going to sell the frame there.


----------



## 65mtn (Jun 4, 2008)

*brand new large yelli*

new large yelli for sale mtbr classifieds


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Anybody running a 34 talas 140 on this bike?


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JonathanM said:


> Anybody running a 34 talas 140 on this bike?


http://forums.mtbr.com/8589413-post52.html


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

eurospek said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/8589413-post52.html


Oh snap. Ordering an XL right now and that fork to match. Probably gonna go with the stock ZTR Flow wheelset for now.

Anyone know the tire clearance on this guy? Looks like you can run 2.4s all day with no problem.


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

JonathanM said:


> Anyone know the tire clearance on this guy? Looks like you can run 2.4s all day with no problem.


as has been posted eleventy-billion times on this forum, and in this thread probably, plenty of tire clearance for 2.4 ardents on Flows (as one example) at the yoke.

clearance w/ the front derailleur, if you choose to run one, can depend on other factors e.g. the chainline you're running w/ your crankset, etc.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

JonathanM said:


> Oh snap. Ordering an XL right now and that fork to match. Probably gonna go with the stock ZTR Flow wheelset for now.


What colour frame are you going with?


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

JoshM said:


> What colour frame are you going with?


I'd love to have gone with Purple but it looks like they're out of stock for now. Probably going to go with Orange.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

JoshM said:


> I've heard from two other people (One of them an employee of Canfield Bros.) that another run of Yelli's will be coming in March(ish) 2012 with Purple Ano as a color again.
> 
> Worth thinking about if you can hold off till the spring and really want a Purple. :thumbsup:


Wish I could. I recently sold a RIP 9 thinking that going to a 5 inch 26er (Yeti ASR 5 Carbon) I would have more fun and flickability, wrong. After 2 years of riding 29ers I cannot stand the feel of a squishy 26er. Sending the frame, fork and wheels back to Competitive Cyclist today under their NQA return policy (effing awesome). As soon as I get my refund (somewhere around $2300) I'll be able to order a YS frame, Talas 120 or 140 (haven't decided) and some Flows.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

JonathanM said:


> I'd love to have gone with Purple but it looks like they're out of stock for now. Probably going to go with Orange.


I've heard from two other people (One of them an employee of Canfield Bros.) that another run of Yelli's will be coming in March(ish) 2012 with Purple Ano as a color again.

Worth thinking about if you can hold off till the spring and really want a Purple. :thumbsup:


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Go 140, and let us know what you end up getting.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

JoshM said:


> Go 140, and let us know what you end up getting.


Ended up going with Chromag Surface. Was lucky enough to put a deposit on the last large frame they had in stock.

[humbling leaving the room]


----------



## 2002maniac (Nov 17, 2008)

Is anyone running a 485 A/C Rigid fork on their Yelli? How does the handling feel? Many pedal strikes? I'm considering switching to this frame (from my just built Access XCL) and would want to transfer over my carbon fork. I guess an external bearing lower headset would add ~10mm. Any input?


----------



## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

*NEWS UPDATE*

We just added 8 more large frames on the web store.....Just in time for your favorite winter time holiday


----------



## nre7766 (Feb 14, 2011)

Hey that orange bike looks familiar...when is MRP going to get the chain guides in stock? I've had mine on order now for 2 weeks (according to my LBS).:madman:


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

gollub01 said:


> *NEWS UPDATE*
> 
> We just added 8 more large frames on the web store.....Just in time for your favorite winter time holiday


Out of pure selfishness, I think you should put up some medium Nimble9's on your web store.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

nre7766 said:


> Hey that orange bike looks familiar...when is MRP going to get the chain guides in stock? I've had mine on order now for 2 weeks (according to my LBS).:madman:


That's what happens when you order at a LBS. They are in stock online everywhere.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Another XL Purple Canfield Yelli Screamy. Only thing different from the rest is purple ODI lock on's. Front end feels super light with the short chain stays. There will be some spacers coming out off of the steerer tube, once I ride it and get it dialed in.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Looking good Randy.

I'm thinking if you take most of those spacers out, the light feeling front end won't be as noticeable.

Is the Marz set at 120mm or 140mm?


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

JoshM said:


> Looking good Randy.
> 
> I'm thinking if you take most of those spacers out, the light feeling front end won't be as noticeable.
> 
> Is the Marz set at 120mm or 140mm?


Marz is set at 140mm. Have not ridden it anywhere except in the driveway, but that should change Saturday.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Ya with the 140mm fork you'll wanna get rid of some of those spacers. I dont have any spacers + a low rise bar and it handles great. Its still easy to pick the front up over obstacles but doesnt float when climbing.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

jeffw-13 said:


> Ya with the 140mm fork you'll wanna get rid of some of those spacers. I dont have any spacers + a low rise bar and it handles great. Its still easy to pick the front up over obstacles but doesnt float when climbing.


I am running a Truvative Stylo 22-32-44 crank with zero spacers on the 73mm bottom bracket. Truvative runs a 51.5mm offset, which is absolutely perfect for ring gear clearance on this frame, looks like about 3mm of clearance between the ring gears and the chainstay. Noice!


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Ok so I've settled on a YS until chromag releases their second batch of Surfaces. Probably an orange frame. Build kit:

2012 RS Rev 140 Tapered 20 thru
Formula "the one" brakes
XO Drivetrain 2x10 with the exception of a shimano dm f/d
FSA Gravity Light 777 Bars silver
Thomson 70mm silver X4 stem
Thomson Post, silver
Silver Industry Nine Enduro Hubs laced to Flow Rims
Ardent 2.4 EXO front
Ardent 2.25 LUST rear
Canfield Crampon pedals


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

How long till randyboy's pic ends up in a thread about running too many stem spacers ? 

"Who's bike is this?"

"Its not a bike, its a chopper baby."

"Who's chopper is this ?"


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JonathanM said:


> Ok so I've settled on a YS until chromag releases their second batch of Surfaces. Probably an orange frame. Build kit:


I thought you pulled the trigger on the last orange Large frame Chromag had in stock for the Surface?? Or am I wrong?



JonathanM said:


> Trigger=pulled
> 
> Laid down a deposit with Ian moments ago.
> 
> Chromag Surface in Orange


http://forums.mtbr.com/8779150-post168.html

Either way, thankfully the riding season is over for me here in the Midwest and my Christmas present will be arriving in March this year.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Just got my tracking number for my XL Yelli. It's going to be a long winter.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

92gli said:


> How long till randyboy's pic ends up in a thread about running too many stem spacers ?
> 
> "Who's bike is this?"
> 
> ...


That ain't nuthin compared to a WFO with a Dorado 180 on it, trust me...


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*Grandpa would luv it.*



RandyBoy said:


> That ain't nuthin compared to a WFO with a Dorado 180 on it, trust me...


Maybe if you modded that Dorado to have 11 inches of travel, That looks like a 140mm fork with 140mm of spacers!:eekster:


----------



## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

92gli said:


> How long till randyboy's pic ends up in a thread about running too many stem spacers ?


I've already posted it on another forum. One dude there loves his spacers and we give him a hard time about it.

I posted the picture with the caption: "Your move."


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

eurospek said:


> I thought you pulled the trigger on the last orange Large frame Chromag had in stock for the Surface?? Or am I wrong?
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/8779150-post168.html
> 
> Either way, thankfully the riding season is over for me here in the Midwest and my Christmas present will be arriving in March this year.


I had laid down a deposit with Chromag on a Large but I think I'd rather go with the XL so I'm waiting till the new batch comes out next Spring.

For now I'll rock the canfield.

Also considering for next spring, custom steel Spooky Darkside 29er built by FTW. Custom bike with choice tubing for 1600 vs Chromag stock build for 1475.... Seems to be a no brainer.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ With such a limited production run of the Surface, it's as close as custom as you'll get with Chromag frames I think. 

I know they are designing another 29er frame for about half the cost, made in Taiwan, a little heavier, and if they are going to know by March if it's going to receive a 21" ST, I'll probably go that route and save a few pennies. But for now, nothing else is coming out on the market that fits what I need.


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

looks like I'm going to be joining the Yelli family as well.

Frame and fork on the way!!


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

A few pics from the climb on today's ride, my first on the Yelli Screamy. Need to cut off a portion of my Shimano Front derailleur, it rubs on the rear tire quite annoyingly, due to the clearance on a 2.25" tire with a fair amount of volume and the short chain stays. Pretty rare here in So Cal to have a spring be frozen at 3 in the afternoon at 1800 feet of elevation, never seen this happen before in 5 years of riding, kinda makes me wonder about Global Warming altogether.?










Minor details on the build. Truvative runs a nice chainline at 51.5mm on these.










Sram X9 in 9 speed, because us Clydes need the fattest chains we can get to make them last.










Marzocchi Micro Ti at 140mm with Formula TheOnes.










Beer:30, after the ride, loaded up to go back home for a frosty.










First ride, there will be some mods, need to still get it closer to being dialed in, today was nothing but a test bed run.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Nice job wrapping that chainstay.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

I don't know what's scarier. The number of spacers under your stem, or the fact that the seat is level with the bars  I'm guessing you're on the tall side. I'm hoping you felt comfortable on it or does it feel short?


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

RandyBoy said:


> ... kinda makes me wonder about Global Warming altogether.?


What you are experiencing is arctic weather patterns related to the retarded altitude of your stem set up. Do not be alarmed. Unless you develop an nosebleed.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

buddhak said:


> What you are experiencing is arctic weather patterns related to the retarded altitude of your stem set up. Do not be alarmed. Unless you develop an nosebleed.


Good Lord, that was whack as fcuk. I'm going to save everyone the trouble and neg rep myself.

EDIT: impossible


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

eurospek said:


> Nice job wrapping that chainstay.


I'd give you some rep, but it says I gotta give away more rep away before I can rep you again?


----------



## Putnam (Nov 26, 2011)

that purple looks sweet!


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

car_nut said:


> I don't know what's scarier. The number of spacers under your stem, or the fact that the seat is level with the bars  I'm guessing you're on the tall side. I'm hoping you felt comfortable on it or does it feel short?


6' 5" and a 410mm Thomson isn't enough, so today I installed the 450mm Gravity Dropper with 5 and 3" of drop, in 30.9mm diam. Tomorrow, it might be sporting a black fork.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Damn. And I thought I ran flagpoles for seatposts. I'm guessing "stand over" isn't a dimension you concern yourself with when shopping frames.


----------



## Kevin_Federline (Nov 19, 2008)

Listen I'm 6 foot 6, and my bike has two spacers on an xl surly, why do you need that much?! Looks like more of an upright position of a crusier then a mtb


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Now just waiting for my XL in orange to ship. Will post pictures when it comes in.

Went with the RS Revelation RCT3 from my local bike shop. 
Having to go budget on the wheels, thinking just stock ZTR Flows, always been reliable.


----------



## ajdonner (Apr 3, 2007)

Kevin_Federline said:


> Listen I'm 6 foot 6, and my bike has two spacers on an xl surly, why do you need that much?! Looks like more of an upright position of a crusier then a mtb


Maybe he has *really* short arms/torso....


----------



## Hermes475 (Mar 1, 2007)

*new yelli*

I finally got my new yelli built up. My first ride in it should take place tomorrow.


----------



## Enoch (Jun 12, 2004)

nitrousjunky said:


> looks like I'm going to be joining the Yelli family as well.
> 
> Frame and fork on the way!!


I think your gonna like it, I've got about 7, 2 hour plus rides on mine. Pretty happy so far. I do have to keep reminding myself it is meant to be a trail bike, not a XC race bike. The slack head angle just feels so different. I've been running it at 100mm and it seems to handle the quicker /tighter local trails fine. I just ordered a Talas fork for it so I'll be letting out to 120 for trips down the hills in WNC.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Hermes475 said:


> I finally got my new yelli built up. My first ride in it should take place tomorrow.


Are those the FSA 777 bars?


----------



## Hermes475 (Mar 1, 2007)

*re bars*

No, those are Sunline V1 Flat bars. They are really wide (762mm). I may end up cutting them down a little bit because I keep hitting trees by accident.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Their current stock on the website shows:
> 
> Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Black	0
> Yelli Screamy (frame only): Medium, Anodize Gold	5
> ...


How do you find the current stock on the website? Looking to order an XL...


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> How do you find the current stock on the website? Looking to order an XL...


Add to the cart a size and color that you know is long sold out like a Small gold ano and a window with current stock should pop up.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Add to the cart a size and color that you know is long sold out like a Small gold ano and a window with current stock should pop up.


Ah, cool. I guess since it didn't pop anyway it was in stock.... Thanks!


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Built-ish. Ordered new chain rings/bashguard cause of clearance issues. Waiting on a silver post, spacers and qr clamp. This thing is FUN.



















https://picasaweb.google.com/106723...key=Gv1sRgCO_hkqezzdvQ3AE#5686577188588209026


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JonathanM said:


> Built-ish. Ordered new chain rings/bashguard cause of clearance issues. Waiting on a silver post, spacers and qr clamp. This thing is FUN.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks hot. Love the orange frame with the white Revelation and silver cockpit elements. Looks classy. :thumbsup:

That a RCT3 Revelation? Canfield pedals?


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

Yup, RCT3 and crampons.


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Rode for the first time with the 140mm marzocchi 44 micro ti tapered fork. It was a very smooth XC trail with lots of sharp turns. So far, i'm not sure I like the longer fork. I felt really slow in the turns. The ride was smooth though, and I still need to play with some of the settings. The trail also had a few slightly elivated skinny beams, not much wider than my 2.35 tires. These seemed easier with the new fork. 

I've been riding this bike since January and have no desire to ride anything else. I even sold my rode bike and use big apples on the yelli screamy, which are HUGE on flow rims. 

I plan to post a pic soon, but here's my build. I'm 5'11, can't remember my other measurements
Medium black frame
Wheels built by lacemine29
Front Wheel - DT Swiss 240s OS, DT spokes, Stans Flow Rim,
Rear Wheel - DT Swiss 350 with 18pt ratchets, DT spokes, DT RWS, Stans Flow Rim Panaracer Rampage Tires
Fork - Marzocchi micro ti 44 tapered
Thomson 410mm setback seat post
WTB seat
Truvativ fire x crank. 2x9 with bash ring
sram x9 cassette
sram x9 shifters
sram x9 rear derailleur
Shimano XT front derailleur
Juicy 7 brakes - 160mm rear, 180mm front
Shimano M520 pedals
Truvativ Holzfeller bars
Truvativ AKA 60mm stem
Cane Creek headset


----------



## Dugs (Mar 5, 2007)

My new XL Semi Polished with 140mm 44 Micro Ti fork, it just feel so right!


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

The 140 just feels so right. I'm not just a fanboy, I thought I'd want to reduce my Revelation from 140 to 120 but there really isn't a need.


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

I think part of my problem is the riser bars. I plan on buying some flat bars soon to see if that helps.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

coke said:


> I think part of my problem is the riser bars. I plan on buying some flat bars soon to see if that helps.


Could be. I've got 20mm worth of spacers, a zero degree stem and flat bars. Feels perfect on my XL.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Dugs said:


> My new XL Semi Polished with 140mm 44 Micro Ti fork, it just feel so right!


How do you like the finish? I'm in the final stages of buying...


----------



## Dugs (Mar 5, 2007)

Finish is really nice, sort of posh raw. I was in two minds after ordering but pleased I went with it.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Hey Dugs, that bike looks rad. How tall are you? 6'2", thinking L but maybe XL. 

I ride XL Turners and Santa Cruzes.

Morgan


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Has anyone reading this thread ordered a Yelli from Canfield and have it shipped to Canada?
I'm just wondering what kind of brokerage fees and taxes people ended up paying.
The brothers ship via UPS, which always ends up with a nice bill to pay before you can get your frame.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Dugs said:


> My new XL Semi Polished with 140mm 44 Micro Ti fork, it just feel so right!


Best looking polished thus far! :thumbsup:


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Thanks!

Morgan


----------



## Dugs (Mar 5, 2007)

MorganFletcher, I'm 6'2.5" and ride an XL Sultan aswell. The XL YS frame fits perfectly so glad I didn't size down as standover is still huge.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

The semi-polished has a clear coat over it?


----------



## Dugs (Mar 5, 2007)

Yep


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> Hey Dugs, that bike looks rad. How tall are you? 6'2", thinking L but maybe XL.
> 
> I ride XL Turners and Santa Cruzes.
> 
> Morgan


as I think I posted earlier in this thread, I'm 6' 3" and glad that I followed Canfield's recommendation to get a Large, based on the similar reach and ETT compared to other frames I ride. 70 mm stem, 710 mm bars. for me the whole point of this bike is big tires and technical trails, not fireroads and stretched-out XC position.

I ride an XL Turner DHR but a Lg Nomad (could easily go w/ an XL nomad however...sorta in-between sizes).

If you have long legs for your height, that's a good reason to go w/ the XL YElli. the seat tube on the Lg is quite short, so my 400 mm post is running near full extension.


----------



## boudy (Aug 20, 2007)

*Stand-over numbers?*

Hey,

Are there stand-over numbers published anywhere? I didn't find them on the Canfield site. Stubby Leggers want to know...

I'd specifically like to know the clearance for M and L with both 120MM and 140MM forks, but I reckon that making the data available for all sizes would be mighty helpful for the limb-length challenged.

-E


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

frorider said:


> If you have long legs for your height, that's a good reason to go w/ the XL YElli. the seat tube on the Lg is quite short, so my 400 mm post is running near full extension.


That's me. 6' 3" all legs. Im riding an XL with 70mm stem and reach feels good.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Think I'm getting too old for a hardtail on the local trails, with my lower back. If anyone is interested in an XL purple Yelly Screamy frame, PM me.


----------



## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> Think I'm getting too old for a hardtail on the local trails, with my lower back. If anyone is interested in an XL purple Yelly Screamy frame, PM me.


just curious -- how big a tire were you running on the rear? i'm finding w/ a 2.4 ardent at lowish pressure, it's smoother on fist-sized rocky sections than some xc race style 4 inch FS 26ers I've been on.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

RandyBoy said:


> Think I'm getting too old for a hardtail on the local trails, with my lower back. If anyone is interested in an XL purple Yelly Screamy frame, PM me.


Maybe you are just exercising muscles that haven't been exercised in a while? One thing I have noticed about having more than one bike in the stable - every switch brings some temporary low back pain. Who says bike gigolos don't have problems?


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

RandyBoy said:


> Think I'm getting too old for a hardtail on the local trails, with my lower back. If anyone is interested in an XL purple Yelly Screamy frame, PM me.


I'm looking for an XL, but I have a set of charger wheels on the way that are black with red hubs, can't put those two together...:nono:


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Dugs said:


> My new XL Semi Polished with 140mm 44 Micro Ti fork, it just feel so right!


I have a black 140 Marz in the mail, plus some Sun Ringle chargers. Your bike is my model, really like the polished with black components!


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi, I'm slowly accumulating parts to build a YS. I'd like to go 1x9. Does anyone know if a 33T will fit? I saw mention that 32 was biggest. Looking at this FireX...

Truvativ CSBB 07 Firex 1.1G 33T 175 Blk CR0034 Truvativ Cranksets Mountain


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Hi, I'm slowly accumulating parts to build a YS. I'd like to go 1x9. Does anyone know if a 33T will fit? I saw mention that 32 was biggest. Looking at this FireX...
> 
> Truvativ CSBB 07 Firex 1.1G 33T 175 Blk CR0034 Truvativ Cranksets Mountain


Never tried a 33, but looking at my 32t single ring (RaceFace singlespeed) on RF Deus cranks sitting so close to the chainstay I don't think a 33t would clear it.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

savo said:


> Never tried a 33, but looking at my 32t single ring (RaceFace singlespeed) on RF Deus cranks sitting so close to the chainstay I don't think a 33t would clear it.


Thanks!


----------



## Hermes475 (Mar 1, 2007)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Hi, I'm slowly accumulating parts to build a YS. I'd like to go 1x9. Does anyone know if a 33T will fit? I saw mention that 32 was biggest. Looking at this FireX...
> 
> Truvativ CSBB 07 Firex 1.1G 33T 175 Blk CR0034 Truvativ Cranksets Mountain


I am running a bash-36-22 on my yelli with a truvativ stylo crankset. It has a slightly wider chainline than a shimano crankset but I am not sure about raceface. I had the crankset before I got the frame and just threw it on to see if it would fit (I was originally planning on ordering a 32t chainring). I have been riding it for a few days and the 36t clears the chainstay by less than 1mm but so far no problems.


----------



## KenDobson (Jan 18, 2008)

I just ordered a orange medium, this will be my first 29er and I will be setting it up for more XC. Looking forward to building it, have a few ideas on parts but the fork is a question. Which fork in the 80-100mm would one use? Reba XX, Rev XX, or? Looking for the shortest A to C measurement. Also going to try and use the zero stack top and bottum headset cups. Im a 29er newbe


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## Enoch (Jun 12, 2004)

KenDobson said:


> I just ordered a orange medium, this will be my first 29er and I will be setting it up for more XC. Looking forward to building it, have a few ideas on parts but the fork is a question. Which fork in the 80-100mm would one use? Reba XX, Rev XX, or? Looking for the shortest A to C measurement. Also going to try and use the zero stack top and bottum headset cups. Im a 29er newbe


I've logged a few miles on mine now. I'm running a Fox set to 100mm it has a 10mm shorter A-C than the Reba. I really don't think you want to go any shorter than that. I clip a pedal every now and then with mine set @ 100 and I'm running the fork plenty stiff. It does fine on the fast XC local trails, handles just as good as my Niners but it is very different in a good kind of way. I could not imagine running this bike with a 80mm fork. The Yelli is more of a trail bike that can hold it's own in a fast XC ride. I'm not sure if they make a Zero stack lower headset for the Yelli. I don't think the frame will allow for it.


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## KenDobson (Jan 18, 2008)

Thanks Enoch! I will take that advise.

Ken


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

You can run a ZS bottom cup in the Yelli provided you are using a traditional 1-1/8th steerer on your fork.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

So I wasn't having any luck with my XO 2x10 setup. The 26/39 just didn't have the clearance and the f/d wasn't getting along with my Ardent 2.4 so much. Remedy? Ditched the 2x10 and went 1x10. No more f/d and tire clearance issues (Note, F/D fit fine before I put the ardent 2.4 on the bike). Using a 32 ring up front with a Bonti/Truvativ crank off an old GF Rig paired with an MRP guide and things are finally running smoothly. This will probably be how I ride this bike in the long haul. Also, the 2.4 ardent at lower pressures take the harshness of the ride way down.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

^ Seems you're not the first guy to have clearance issues with a front der. AND 2.4 Ardent.


----------



## LowOnO2 (Nov 1, 2011)

@JonathanM, do you have a pic of the lack of clearance with the XO 2x10? My crank is sram x7 s1400 2x10 crankset 26/39 175mm and want to see if it will fit before I order the frame.

Also, that orange looks good.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm proud to say that they are out of XL raws now, because I just bought the last one.


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## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

LowOnO2 said:


> @JonathanM, do you have a pic of the lack of clearance with the XO 2x10? My crank is sram x7 s1400 2x10 crankset 26/39 175mm.
> 
> Also, that orange looks good.


How did you get that 26/39 crankset to fit? I have a Sram X7 24/38, and it will not clear the chain stay. Using a GXP with one spacer on the drive side.


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## LowOnO2 (Nov 1, 2011)

pdqmach26 said:


> How did you get that 26/39 crankset to fit? I have a Sram X7 24/38, and it will not clear the chain stay. Using a GXP with one spacer on the drive side.


I edited my post. I have not ordered the frame, yet. I was asking the guy about his 2x10 to find out if my 26/39 will fit.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Sitting in a stand waiting for headset, cranks and wheels.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> Sitting in a stand waiting for headset, cranks and wheels.


Sweet, tracking says my frame arrives next Tuesday. Can't wait!


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Thinking about a dropper seatpost for my new YS to be built. Seems like a good combo, any YS riders using a dropper?


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Yes of coarse, it should be compulsory


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

wobbem said:


> Yes of coarse, it should be compulsory


:yesnod:

Reverb 420mm for me due to the short seat tube. I'm likely going SS on it next season though, so the dropper will be moving to what will become my geared bike.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

car_nut said:


> :yesnod:
> 
> Reverb 420mm for me due to the short seat tube. I'm likely going SS on it next season though, so the dropper will be moving to what will become my geared bike.


Why not leave it on for SS mode? Or do you just not want to have to buy another Reverb?

I'm planning to put a dropper on my SS Yelli.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Yeah, cost is probably the biggest reason. I also place less value in it on a SS. I like full leg extension when spinning along on a geared bike, but I spend most of my time standing on a SS. Also, half the attraction for me in a SS is the simplicity of it. Adding a dropper doesn't work for me along that theme.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

car_nut said:


> Also, half the attraction for me in a SS is the simplicity of it. Adding a dropper doesn't work for me along that theme.


I get that. That was part of the reason I removed my gravity dropper from my last SS bike, but I did miss it at times. I'm not 100% decided to do one with this build, but I'm definitely leaning that way.


----------



## JonathanM (Jun 23, 2009)

This bike definitely rewards the out of seat rider. Steep climbing is pretty difficult (respectively) unless you are out of the saddle. Another thing is the harsh rear end. The 2.4 ardent at 20 psi def helped out but I still avoid sitting down for too long on bumpy terrain as the boxed aluminum stays/short chain stays make for one bumpy ride.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

nitrousjunky said:


> Why not leave it on for SS mode? Or do you just not want to have to buy another Reverb?
> 
> I'm planning to put a dropper on my SS Yelli.


I'm thinking Reverb, seems like GD has a good following, but I honestly can't put something so ugly on a YS. I know, I know...


----------



## Dugs (Mar 5, 2007)

Have a Reverb on mine now, makes a great bike even better


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Putting mine in the woods for the first time tonight!!


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

nitrousjunky said:


> Putting mine in the woods for the first time tonight!!


...and yet, we haven't laid eyes on said beast yet!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

jncarpenter said:


> ...and yet, we haven't laid eyes on said beast yet!


I'll put up pics this weekend, still changing stuff up and dialing the cockpit in.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Edit: Linked to Yelli Screamy geometry diagrams.

I hate it when people ask what size bike they should get. But here I am in the same spot. I've read this whole thread, emailed with Sean at Canfield Brothers, and I'm still not sure. Sean said I'm between sizes. I agree.

I'm 6'2", inseam is 34" in socks. I have had four 29ers with 24.5" or 25.0" top tubes. Each one had 100 or 110 stems. One was an "L" and the other three were "XL".

The L was a Niner AIR 9 with a 19" seat tube:


At the Lookout by fnagrom, on Flickr

Currently I have:

25.0" ett / 110 stem / 27" bar 
24.5" ett / 110 stem / 28" bar
24.5" ett / 100 stem / 27" bar

All have the seat fairly far back, some seat tubes are slacker than others.

I'd like to go wide-bar, short-stem on a Yelli Screamy. I'd run it with the 140/110mm travel-adjust Rock Shox Revelation fork. It will probably be SS at first, 1x10 later. I'll put a dropper post on it too. The L Yelli Screamy has an 18" seat tube, 1" shorter than the Niner above. It also has a 24.5" ETT. I run my saddle a little over 32" (82 or 81cm) saddle top to bb center, saddle nose 8-9cm behind bb center. That would mean 14" from top of seat tube to top of saddle. The 25.3 ETT of the XL Yelli Screamy just seems really long, although I wonder if it would work with an 80 or 70 stem and wide bars.

I will use it for all kinds of riding, from fun, gnar to epic days, maybe even a race here and there.

This is me, on my old XL Santa Cruz Chameleon (26er):









Which size should I get?

Morgan


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

My $0.02 would say XL with a 50mm stem.

I'm similar dimensions (6'3" but with a slightly sorter inseam) and I have a L. I also could have gone either way, but went smaller, figuring that I'll ride a FS for all-day rides, so this is my screwing around playbike. If it were my all-day bike, I'd probably want it a little larger.

I have a 410mm post, and I'm _just _getting full XC extension with the post at the minimum insertion line.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

evasive said:


> My $0.02 would say XL with a 50mm stem.
> 
> I'm similar dimensions (6'3" but with a slightly sorter inseam) and I have a L. I also could have gone either way, but went smaller, figuring that I'll ride a FS for all-day rides, so this is my screwing around playbike. If it were my all-day bike, I'd probably want it a little larger.
> 
> I have a 410mm post, and I'm _just _getting full XC extension with the post at the minimum insertion line.


Thanks!

You know, I just measured 18" from the bb center on one of my bikes, and held a 400mm seatpost up next to the seatpost in my frame, and the minimum insertion line was about 1" above the 18" mark. I guess it's an XL with a short stem!









Morgan


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

morganfletcher- you need to be on a XL for sure. Keep in mind too if your going to run a 120-140mm fork, your reach will be shortened. The reach numbers on the chart are at 480mm, which is an unsagged 80mm fork (or around what a sagged 100mm fork would be).


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

First trail ride was last night on mine. This is a fun frame!!!

I've been very unsatisfied with standard geometry frames since having to sell my ByStickel frame. That is over, this frame is as close to my Stickel as I'm going to get with a production frame. 

I have mine setup SS with a 120mm Micro Ti. It climbs exceptionally well. I haven't been getting much saddle time in the last couple months, so my legs aren't where they normally are. However it did exceptionally well on a wet/slick/steep rock armored climb last night. It kept the tire planted and went until my legs threw the towel in.

I did a couple fast-flowy single track descents and it really shines on these type trails. My Stickel sold me on the pure fun of a bike that steers from the rear wheel. This frame does that well too. I had noticed that I wasn't keeping up with my crew on these trails on my Kona Unit frame, I was pushing them last night once again!!!! 

I can already tell this thing is going to be a blast on techy trails as well. I had considered maybe dropping the fork to 100mm after a little bit of time. That isn't happening, it just works at the 120mm setting. The Micro TI has a great lockout for the smooth standing climbs as well. This is definitely a keeper!

Thanks Brothers, you have a sweet product!!! :thumbsup:


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

nitrousjunky said:


> First trail ride was last night on mine. This is a fun frame!!!
> 
> I've been very unsatisfied with standard geometry frames since having to sell my ByStickel frame. That is over, this frame is as close to my Stickel as I'm going to get with a production frame.
> 
> ...


What ss tensioner are you using? And pics?


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Clink said:


> What ss tensioner are you using? And pics?


Right now, I'm magic gear 32x21. I have a Blackspire Stinger on the way though that will be used.

Pics will be up this weekend.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

nitrousjunky said:


> morganfletcher- you need to be on a XL for sure. Keep in mind too if your going to run a 120-140mm fork, your reach will be shortened. The reach numbers on the chart are at 480mm, which is an unsagged 80mm fork (or around what a sagged 100mm fork would be).


Thanks, I spoke with Lance Canfield this morning by phone, and he confirmed XL.

Now to budget...

Morgan


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Thanks, I spoke with Lance Canfield this morning by phone, and he confirmed XL.
> 
> Now to budget...
> 
> Morgan


You want to reconsider that PM acceptance I sent you 10 days ago?  The XL in purple is still available to you, or anyone else that has the money. Heck, build it up in Santa Cruz, and let's go ride!


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## DFYFZX (Jun 19, 2009)

morganfletcher said:


> I hate it when people ask what size bike they should get. But here I am in the same spot. I've read this whole thread, emailed with Sean at Canfield Brothers, and I'm still not sure. Sean said I'm between sizes. I agree.
> 
> I'm 6'2", inseam is 34" in socks. I have had four 29ers with 24.5" or 25.0" top tubes. Each one had 100 or 110 stems. One was an "L" and the other three were "XL".
> 
> ...


Another vote for XL with short stem. Maybe not 50mm, but this bike with a 100mm+ stem is an abomination


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> You want to reconsider that PM acceptance I sent you 10 days ago?  The XL in purple is still available to you, or anyone else that has the money. Heck, build it up in Santa Cruz, and let's go ride!


Thanks, Randy. I'll know more after this weekend.

Morgan


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Thanks, Randy. I'll know more after this weekend.
> 
> Morgan


Buy her something nice this weekend.  That's what I did.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Can someone give me an idea of what length rear brake line would work on a XL Yelli with wide (730mm) bars? I found a good deal on XTR's and want to know if a rear brake line of 1440mm will work.


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## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

nitrousjunky said:


> I'll put up pics this weekend, still changing stuff up and dialing the cockpit in.





nitrousjunky said:


> Pics will be up this weekend.


Time's a wastin'!


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I am a lucky guy. I emailed with Sean at Canfield about sizing for the Yelli Screamy. He said "Lance is travelling near you with his demo van, I'll have him call you." Lance and I spoke, he was en route from Chico to Santa Cruz / Pacifica, and some friends and I had been planning a New Years Day ride at Annadel state park, near Santa Rosa CA. I invited Lance and his girlfriend Michelle to ride with us. Luckily it worked out.


Lance in front of the Canfield sprinter by fnagrom, on Flickr

They were happy to get some good riding in on local trails, and I was happy to ride with them and try out the Yelli Screamy. I met a few more friends on the trail and showed them the bike, too.


31" Race Face bars, and I think a 90mm stem by fnagrom, on Flickr

He had a Yelli Screamy in large, set up with a long Reverb seatpost, 90mm stem, 31" (!!!) Race Face Atlas bars, and a 1x9 with a road cassette out back. It had a pretty xc tire setup, but it still rocked like a downhill bike! I was able to raise the seatpost up high enough to fit me, and with the bars a little on the low side it still worked out pretty well for me.


large Yelli Screamy by fnagrom, on Flickr

We both agreed an XL with 50 or 60mm stem and wide bars would fit me well. I'm gonna get one soon. I'll get one direct from Canfield, because he went out of his way to ride with us yesterday. I talked with Lance quite a bit about how he and his brother design and build bikes, the business of it, the cool stuff they've innovated, and how they do business. I think they're going to do well, they remind me of the way WTB innovated back in the 1980s, when it ws a small, rider-owned company designing and building new, innovative stuff. A lot of the frames and parts Lance and Chris are designing and producing have that evolutionary next-step quality.


Lance Canfield by fnagrom, on Flickr

After the ride we went to the local Russian River Brewing Company for some excellent food and beers, and I suggested another local ride or two that are really worth doing as they continue south.


Pliny the Elder by fnagrom, on Flickr


Michelle, Sassan, Lance, Mark by fnagrom, on Flickr

Thank you Sean, Lance and Michelle!

Morgan


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Morgan, how did the 31" bars feel? If you build one would you go that wide?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Morgan, how did the 31" bars feel? If you build one would you go that wide?


The widest bars on my current rides are 700mm / 28" wide (Spank Royala).


A dope and his bike by fnagrom, on Flickr

That said, I am definitely going short-stem, wide-bars on the Yelli Screamy. I would gladly run the 31" bars. Time will tell if my favorite local trails *****-slap me to the ground with those bars, or if I can adapt. I've got to say that climbing with the 31" bars and the relatively high gears (32T ring, road cassette) was very nice, and the wide bars acted like steering stabilizers at speed and on greasy rocks. I was able to make very fine adjustments in tech at maximum downhill speed. (no brakes, gravity, fast enough to be at the edge of my skill level)

Yes!

Just one more thing; I would happily race this bike cross-country. Eager to try it with a 140 fork. Soon, I hope.

Morgan


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

morganfletcher said:


> I am a lucky guy. I emailed with Sean at Canfield about sizing for the Yelli Screamy. He said "Lance is travelling near you with his demo van, I'll have him call you." Lance and I spoke, he was en route from Chico to Santa Cruz / Pacifica, and some friends and I had been planning a New Years Day ride at Annadel state park, near Santa Rosa CA. I invited Lance and his girlfriend Michelle to ride with us. Luckily it worked out. ... Morgan


This is the exact same experience I had with Chris Canfield. Very approachable guys, they really seem to like to go out of their way to get you on the bikes.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That's an awesome experience there Morgan, and a wicked test ride. Do love the way the black Yelli was built up.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Alright to make JNC happy, here is pics of mine. 

Second ride was yesterday and let me tell you, I'm digging this bike!





































And one for Clink (32x21)


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

lookin good sir!! :thumb:


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## Enoch (Jun 12, 2004)

nitrousjunky said:


> Alright to make JNC happy, here is pics of mine.
> 
> Second ride was yesterday and let me tell you, I'm digging this bike!


Every time I ride mine i like it better and better. It is really just a fun bike to ride. You could have got a different color though...


----------



## MacB (May 13, 2011)

Hi, I've tried reading all of this thread but after 15 pages my eyes were glazing. So apologies if this has been asked before, some geometry queries.

The specs show a chainstay of 424mm measured horizontally, would I be right in thinking that it's more like 428mm along the stays? Especially if 32/21 works as a magic gear.

The effective HTAs are shown for 480/500/520 fork lengths, so if it's 70 degrees at the 480 would this be about a 70.5 HA, with a BB drop of about 75mm if run with rigid forks at 470mm? I'm thinking here of other geo charts I've looked at showing dimensions for an 80mm/470 AtoC fork and 73/71 angles.

On a more general note, if the dimensions are altering through the frame size range, why does the chainstay length remain the same? As a person on the larger size, who likes to run a fair bit of saddle setback, I find this confusing.

Finally I have a hardtail already based around Niner style XC geometry, which I enjoy. But I'm thinking of something like this as more of an allrounder. Good for messing about with the kids and slow speed nonsense, rather than head down all day rides. What think you?


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Enoch- if yours is silver (which it appears), I do have a different color. 

MacB- Chainstay measures 16.9 measuring in line with the stays.

Also with a 470mm fork it should have a 70.5 degree HT angle. 

Pretty much all bikes keep the same length chainstay through out all sizes.

As far as the all rounder comment, a couple rides on this and I bet your "Niner style xc geometry" bike goes to the all rounder duties. This bike is playful not a long stretched out cruiser.


----------



## MacB (May 13, 2011)

nitrousjunky said:


> Enoch- if yours is silver (which it appears), I do have a different color.
> 
> MacB- Chainstay measures 16.9 measuring in line with the stays.
> 
> ...


Many thanks, I can continue to puzzle over the lack of chainstay variance 

I think my using the term 'allrounder' was a bit misleading there, I was thinking of this type of bike as an all rounder in terms of a go to fun bike. The other one will be turned into a mix of tourer/xc endurance, it'll get a dynamo wheel, rigid steel forks and even a rack on occasions. I can still mix and match for conditions but that's the general theory.

It won't actually be the Yelli it will be a custom frame...you can blame crazy import prices etc for that. For not much more £ss I can get a plain gauge Ti frame with sliders/rockers, that'll sort the chainstay bit and also give some more options.

My next puzzle is whether I need to try for an oversized head tube or not...future proofing or uneccessary cosmetic nonsense for the bimbling non-racer type like me?


----------



## EvilBkr (Mar 14, 2006)

morganfletcher said:


> I am a lucky guy. I emailed with Sean at Canfield about sizing for the Yelli Screamy. He said "Lance is travelling near you with his demo van, I'll have him call you." Lance and I spoke, he was en route from Chico to Santa Cruz / Pacifica, and some friends and I had been planning a New Years Day ride at Annadel state park, near Santa Rosa CA. I invited Lance and his girlfriend Michelle to ride with us. Luckily it worked out.
> 
> 
> Lance in front of the Canfield sprinter by fnagrom, on Flickr
> ...


Morgan and company, I'm sorry I wasn't able to make to Russian River but there were prior engagements that I had to attend to. none-the-less it was great riding with all of you yesterday. I definitely think think that you should go with the XL and a 50mm stem on the Yelli. If you're ever down in the OC look us up at The Path we'll point you in the right direction for trails and give you a guide.

Thank and happy new year,

Fergus


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> I am a lucky guy. I emailed with Sean at Canfield about sizing for the Yelli Screamy. He said "Lance is travelling near you with his demo van, I'll have him call you." Lance and I spoke, he was en route from Chico to Santa Cruz / Pacifica, and some friends and I had been planning a New Years Day ride at Annadel state park, near Santa Rosa CA. I invited Lance and his girlfriend Michelle to ride with us. Luckily it worked out.
> 
> 
> Lance in front of the Canfield sprinter by fnagrom, on Flickr
> ...


What color, green, orange, or black?  Cause I still have one in purple XL that you wanted to put a deposit on.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

EvilBkr said:


> Morgan and company, I'm sorry I wasn't able to make to Russian River but there were prior engagements that I had to attend to. none-the-less it was great riding with all of you yesterday. I definitely think think that you should go with the XL and a 50mm stem on the Yelli. If you're ever down in the OC look us up at The Path we'll point you in the right direction for trails and give you a guide.
> 
> Thank and happy new year,
> 
> Fergus


Right on, thanks Fergus.

Fergus was riding his own hand-built 29er frame, also with super short stays, 5spd cassette on single speed rear Chris King hub, thumb shifters, cool "FB" gusset behind the head tube, Paragon sliders.

Fergus' bike - a set on Flickr

Morgan


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> What color, green, orange, or black?  Cause I still have one in purple XL that you wanted to put a deposit on.


Hey Randy, after the time that Lance spent with me, I think I should buy one from him.

But first I have to find a new job!

Morgan


----------



## coachjon (Jun 13, 2007)

I need one of these frames right meow.

Must come up with a scheme to get the cash by summer! 5 months and counting...

Love the builds in this thread!


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm busy reading this thread, but thought I might just ask. Can one run a zero stack bottom headset bearing with a 1.5" tapered steer tube, or do you have to go external?


----------



## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

External only. I can give u the model number of my Cane Creek when I get home.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Hey Randy, after the time that Lance spent with me, I think I should buy one from him.
> 
> But first I have to find a new job!
> 
> Morgan


Wow, sorry to hear that, when did you find out about your job vanishing, or was the contract up?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> Wow, sorry to hear that, when did you find out about your job vanishing, or was the contract up?


Job still exists, but no pay. Found out 12/30, no warning. Startup life!

Morgan


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

pdqmach26 said:


> External only. I can give u the model number of my Cane Creek when I get home.


Thanks, I bought an external, but started second guessing myself. Frame came in last night, super cool looking. If you get a second I'd appreciate knowing the model number you used, but I think I'm ok.


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

morganfletcher said:


> Job still exists, but no pay.


Well, technically that isn't a job then! Sorry to hear. Best of luck.


----------



## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

What are you guys doing for front derailleurs? I run a 2x9 (11/34 22/32/Bash) and I'm using the SLX 3x9 direct mount front derailleur (FD-M661-D), which works, but:
-Even at its lowest setting (slid all the way down), the outter cage plate sits significantly higher than the bash guard, and the chain will occasionally jump over the bashguard and fall off, since the derailleur's outter plate isn't there to stop it​-My rear 2.35 Rampage will rub on the inner derailer plate when I'm in my granny ring and pedaling hard. Its not terrible, but I'd rather it didnt.​
I've considered just getting a larger bash guard (38-40T) to keep the chain from falling to the outside, but it wont remedy the tire rubbing issue.

Those who run a 2x9, what are you using for a FD? I had the 2x9 specific SLX front derailleur on my last bike and it was perfect, but it is a normal clamp on style derailleur.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Slurry said:


> What are you guys doing for front derailleurs? I run a 2x9 (11/34 22/32/Bash) and I'm using the SLX 3x9 direct mount front derailleur (FD-M661-D), which works, but:
> -Even at its lowest setting (slid all the way down), the outter cage plate sits significantly higher than the bash guard, and the chain will occasionally jump over the bashguard and fall off, since the derailleur's outter plate isn't there to stop it​-My rear 2.35 Rampage will rub on the inner derailer plate when I'm in my granny ring and pedaling hard. Its not terrible, but I'd rather it didnt.​
> I've considered just getting a larger bash guard (38-40T) to keep the chain from falling to the outside, but it wont remedy the tire rubbing issue.
> 
> Those who run a 2x9, what are you using for a FD? I had the 2x9 specific SLX front derailleur on my last bike and it was perfect, but it is a normal clamp on style derailleur.


My setup is exactly the same as yours. I ended up pulling my 44t and replacing it with a 36t-36t e13 Turbocharger, but didn't bother adjusting my FD afterwards. I've never had any problem with the chain jumping/dropping, but when I made that change, I also replaced my RD with a Saint. Saint derailleurs have really stiff springs, so it's almost as good as a tensioner, IMO. That might help keep my chain in place.









My rear tire is a WTB Stout (2.2) and I get a little rubbing on the cage in the granny ring, but like you, I haven't really worried about it.


----------



## confused (Oct 27, 2009)

Was adjusting my rear brakes today with my bike upside down and noticed that my rear tire was about an 1/8" away from the rh chainstay and there was about a 1/4" or more gap on the lh side. Tried readjusting the hub a few times but didnt help at all, anybody else seen this?


----------



## confused (Oct 27, 2009)

So I was adjusting my rear brakes today with my bike upside down and noticed that my rear tire was about 1/8" away from the rh chainstay and the lh side was about 1/4" or more awayfrom the stay? Tried adjusting the hub a few times but wouldnt change position at all, anybody else hae this problem?


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

confused said:


> So I was adjusting my rear brakes today with my bike upside down and noticed that my rear tire was about 1/8" away from the rh chainstay and the lh side was about 1/4" or more awayfrom the stay? Tried adjusting the hub a few times but wouldnt change position at all, anybody else hae this problem?


Well the huge CNC'd yoke on the drive side makes the chainstay clearance a-symmetrical. This allows for tire clearance but also chainring clearance on a super-short chainstay bike.

If the rear-end was symmetrical, then what you'd be noticing would be an out-of-dish wheel, which doesn't have anything to do with the hub.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

evasive said:


> My setup is exactly the same as yours. I ended up pulling my 44t and replacing it with a 36t-36t e13 Turbocharger, but didn't bother adjusting my FD afterwards. I've never had any problem with the chain jumping/dropping, but when I made that change, I also replaced my RD with a Saint. Saint derailleurs have really stiff springs, so it's almost as good as a tensioner, IMO. That might help keep my chain in place.
> 
> View attachment 664428
> 
> ...


Yea, I've considered a light chain-guide or other tensioner too. I'm curious if anyone is running a 2x10 front derailleur on their 2x9 cranks (my understanding is you cant run a granny or middle ringer over 22 or 32, respectively, on the Yelli, making any stock 2x10 setups impossible). I'm thinking the 10spd derailleurs might have better tire clearance and/or sit lower than the 3x9 versions.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

confused said:


> Was adjusting my rear brakes today with my bike upside down and noticed that my rear tire was about an 1/8" away from the rh chainstay and there was about a 1/4" or more gap on the lh side. Tried readjusting the hub a few times but didnt help at all, anybody else seen this?


Mine was spot on, is your wheel dished properly when it was built up?


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Anyone have a black Thomson and want to trade for my silver Thomson layback post, let me know!

Must be 410mm, layback preferred, but straight will work.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> Anyone have a black Thomson and want to trade for my silver Thomson layback post, let me know!
> 
> Must be 410mm, layback preferred, but straight will work.


Are you sure you are going to want a layback, with those short chainstays? You are going to want to get some weight on the front end of this, you'll see, after your ride it, especially with a fork run at 140mm.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

I recently switched from a 100mm reba rl to a 140mm marzocchi 44 micro ti. The first few rides I hated the fork. The front end was too light, it wouldn't climb, pushed in the corners, and I wrecked several times because of it. 

Last week I switched from riser bars to flat bars, and the bike now feels perfect. The front end is still plenty light to wheelie or manual when needed, but it now climbs and stays planted in the corners. It was VERY stable on fast downhill sweeping corners when I rode this weekend. 

Started off as a happy customer, switched forks and hated the bike, but now i love it again


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

RandyBoy said:


> Are you sure you are going to want a layback, with those short chainstays? You are going to want to get some weight on the front end of this, you'll see, after your ride it, especially with a fork run at 140mm.


This was part of the problem I was having that I mentioned in the post above.

60mm stem
Thomson setback seatpost
Riser Bars.

It had almost no weight on the front wheel.

Switching just the bars solved the problem though. The front end is still a little light when climbing, but not too bad. Everywhere else it feels perfect.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Hey Morgan was that Yelli you rode setup 100/120/140 on the front? Thx


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

appleSSeed said:


> Hey Morgan was that Yelli you rode setup 100/120/140 on the front? Thx


The one I rode had a 120 Fox. Frame was maybe 1/2 size too small, bars and stem were down low against the headset, so plenty low compared to seat. I think 140 fork plus flat bars and not high stem will be good.

Looking forward to it!

Morgan


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

coke said:


> I recently switched from a 100mm reba rl to a 140mm marzocchi 44 micro ti. The first few rides I hated the fork. The front end was too light, it wouldn't climb, pushed in the corners, and I wrecked several times because of it.
> 
> Last week I switched from riser bars to flat bars, and the bike now feels perfect. The front end is still plenty light to wheelie or manual when needed, but it now climbs and stays planted in the corners. It was VERY stable on fast downhill sweeping corners when I rode this weekend.
> 
> Started off as a happy customer, switched forks and hated the bike, but now i love it again


Coke,

How many spacers did you have under your stem, and what height was the rise on the bars?

A lot of the Yelli's I see with 140mm usually have little or no spacers under the stem and it seems to allow for a low rise bar (think race face atlas).


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

I had 1 small spacer, and I think the bars were 30mm.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

JoshM said:


> Coke,
> 
> How many spacers did you have under your stem, and what height was the rise on the bars?
> 
> A lot of the Yelli's I see with 140mm usually have little or no spacers under the stem and it seems to allow for a low rise bar (think race face atlas).


That's how I'm running mine. No spacers & a low rise bar with the 140mm fork. Rides great


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

jeffw-13 said:


> That's how I'm running mine. No spacers & a low rise bar with the 140mm fork. Rides great


Mine will be the exact same.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*1x9 Question*

When you set up the chain length on a 1x do you go large cog + ring plus 2 links?


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

That's how I did mine. I had to add the extra couple links or the jockey wheel on my derailleur hit the 36 tooth ring on my cassette. If your big cassette ring is 34 or smaller you might not need the extra links


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> That's how I did mine. I had to add the extra couple links or the jockey wheel on my derailleur hit the 36 tooth ring on my cassette. If your big cassette ring is 34 or smaller you might not need the extra links


Thanks, I was thinking that on a 3x9 it's pretty cross chained to run the biggest chainring and the biggest cog, so the condition of the chain being so tight would almost never happen, but on a 1x9 that would be one of the more used gears. Just wondering of another link might be good to keep the deraileur arm from getting pulled to tight forward. I've not run a 1x anything, but just trying to think ahead as I build up my YS.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

I think I did minus 3 on my crosscheck 1x9 but that was a long cage rear dérailleur, don't sweat it. Just play it by ear/eye.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*1x10 with 9sp chainrings*

I'm 99% sure that using a 9sp crank like the Stylo 1.1 in a 1x10 is ok. But, I don't mind asking the stupid questions if it may save me from ordering the wrong parts. So, it's ok to use a 10sp chain on 9 speed chainring, right?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> I'm 99% sure that using a 9sp crank like the Stylo 1.1 in a 1x10 is ok. But, I don't mind asking the stupid questions if it may save me from ordering the wrong parts. So, it's ok to use a 10sp chain on 9 speed chainring, right?


I'm pretty sure 10spd chains are narrower. That would mean 10spd chain on 9spd chainring bad, 9spd chain on 10spd chainring good.

Look at http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/Chapter5.pdf page 5-4.

Morgan


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

morganfletcher said:


> I'm pretty sure 10spd chains are narrower. That would mean 10spd chain on 9spd chainring bad, 9spd chain on 10spd chainring good.
> 
> Look at http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/Chapter5.pdf page 5-4.
> 
> Morgan


Yes, 10am chains are narrower, but I think they are ok on 9spd chainrings in 1x10 since no shifting. I have seen reference to 1x10 setups that look like they are using a 9 spd ring. Sorry to sound like a butt, but I'm hoping someone running 1x10 will chime in...


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

The only thing that matters is the matching of the cassette and chain.

*9 and 10 speed crank rings are the same thickness. *The cogs on the cassettes are the same thickness AFAIK.

The difference is the spacing between the cogs on the cassettes. 10 speed ones are closer together. Therefore, you can't use a 9 speed chain on a 10 speed cassette. But a 10 speed chain will work fine on a 9 speed.

If you look closely at 9 and 10 speed chains the difference in most cases is on the 10 speed ones all the plates are flat so they fit between the cassette cogs. 9 speed chain main plates flare out a bit.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

The pitch (center to center distance between two rollers) of both chains is the same, so it will work fine with a 9 speed crank set.

92gli got it right, the gear spacing is tighter on a 10 speed drivetrain, so the chain has to be narrower.

10 speed chains have a max width of 6.2mm, versus the max of 6.8 for a 9 speed.

See here:

Bicycles/Maintenance and Repair/Chains/Chain sizes - Wikibooks, open books for an open world


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Blah! I went to install a king 1.5 external bottom cup headset and this thing is swimming. There's no way this is the proper headset even though it says 1.5 external. I guess i have a 44mm external bottom and need a 55? I dunno...frustrated. :madman:


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Ugh! Fail...ordered this Universal Cycles -- Chris King Griplock InSet 7 Tapered Headset

44mm external bottom...WTF :madman:

Feel like such a newb. This 65 hours a week of work is killing me :skep: anyway off to work


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Stuff happens. Glad you got it figured out.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

appleSSeed said:


> Blah! I went to install a king 1.5 external bottom cup headset and this thing is swimming. There's no way this is the proper headset even though it says 1.5 external. I guess i have a 44mm external bottom and need a 55? I dunno...frustrated. :madman:


You need a 49mm external cup for the bottom, 44mm for the top cup (zero stack).


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> Ugh! Fail...ordered this Universal Cycles -- Chris King Griplock InSet 7 Tapered Headset
> 
> 44mm external bottom...WTF :madman:
> 
> Feel like such a newb. This 65 hours a week of work is killing me :skep: anyway off to work


You might want to have the frame reamed to King specs. I found that the headtube on my YS was out of spec a bit. Both the diameter and the ream depth for the upper cup - since it wasn't reamed deep enough up top, the ZS cup wouldn't sit flush on the headtube.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Thread is so long I can't find what I'm looking for: which chainkeeper to use with the single crown up front? thanks


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

savo said:


> Thread is so long I can't find what I'm looking for: which chainkeeper to use with the single crown up front? thanks


Guess you stopped at page 12. If only you went one more page...


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

ncfisherman said:


> You might want to have the frame reamed to King specs. I found that the headtube on my YS was out of spec a bit. Both the diameter and the ream depth for the upper cup - since it wasn't reamed deep enough up top, the ZS cup wouldn't sit flush on the headtube.


He needs 5mm MORE material for that lower cup to work, not less. Time for this


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

savo said:


> Thread is so long I can't find what I'm looking for: which chainkeeper to use with the single crown up front? thanks


Are you asking what chainguide to use with a single chain-ring up front? A lot of people are running 1x9 or 1x10 on the Yelli, and since you don't have ISCG tabs I will keep it simple.

If you want just a top guide you can go with the MRP 1.x or the E.13 XCX bottom bracket mount chainguides. Both of these guides are also available as a Direct mount option to make use of the Shimano direct mount bracket that is on the Yelli's seat tube. These seem to be the most popular option that I see being run on them.

If you want a full guide you can get an MRP Lopes SL BB mount, or a MRP mini G2 SL BB mount guide.

see here.

Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | MINI G2 SL

Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | LOPES SL

Mountain Racing Products home of MRP, White Brothers, Kreitler, Tamer, and Power Grips | 1x

e*thirteen components

e*thirteen components

PS. The E.13 XCX Direct mount only fits down to a 34T ring. Also if you see a guide that only comes with ISCG mounting options, adapters can be bought to place behind your BB cup to create the mounting plates.

Pick your weapon. :thumbsup:

If you are asking a different question, disregard this post.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

92gli said:


> He needs 5mm MORE material for that lower cup to work, not less. Time for this.


Obviously... I just figured he might as well go ahead and have the frame reamed while he is waiting on the right cup.

This thread needs less banter and more photos. Built my Yelli up a couple weeks ago...


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

ncfisherman said:


> Obviously... I just figured he might as well go ahead and have the frame reamed while he is waiting on the right cup.
> 
> This thread needs less banter and more photos. Built my Yelli up a couple weeks ago...


Sweet, I'm building mine right now!


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

ncfisherman said:


> This thread needs less banter and more photos. Built my Yelli up a couple weeks ago...


Nice use of chrome in that build. Really makes the green pop.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

JoshM said:


> Are you asking what chainguide to use with a single chain-ring up front? A lot of people are running 1x9 or 1x10 on the Yelli, and since you don't have ISCG tabs I will keep it simple.
> 
> If you want just a top guide you can go with the MRP 1.x or the E.13 XCX bottom bracket mount chainguides. Both of these guides are also available as a Direct mount option to make use of the Shimano direct mount bracket that is on the Yelli's seat tube. These seem to be the most popular option that I see being run on them.
> 
> ...


Wow that's exactely what I was asking for. Thank you Josh! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

ncfisherman said:


> Obviously... I just figured he might as well go ahead and have the frame reamed while he is waiting on the right cup.
> 
> This thread needs less banter and more photos. Built my Yelli up a couple weeks ago...


Is that a white o-ring I see? If so, where did you acquire it?


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

I'm not sure I trust the bike shops around here to ream a head tube. I just moved to Lexington, KY and am not familiar with the bike shops. 

Secondly I am like the third owner of this ****tylittle frame so I'm thinking it might have already been done? 

I dunno. Was expecting the headset to be here today but alas, teas not.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> I'm not sure I trust the bike shops around here to ream a head tube. I just moved to Lexington, KY and am not familiar with the bike shops.
> 
> Secondly *I am like the third owner *of this (****ty) frame so I'm thinking it might have already been done?
> 
> I dunno. Was expecting the headset to be here today but alas, teas not.


Actually forth, but who's counting?


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Haha! That whore! She's had so many headsets pressed in her it's disgusting.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

appleSSeed said:


> Haha! That whore! She's had so many headsets pressed in her it's disgusting.


And now you want to ream her?


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

That's what I'm saying. I think I'll just skip the reaming and pound it in.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Is that a white o-ring I see? If so, where did you acquire it?


Just a white zip tie.


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## Enoch (Jun 12, 2004)

ncfisherman...

That green looks awesome.


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## Enoch (Jun 12, 2004)

Sorry, double post, posting on mtbr is like hitting a moving target sometimes :madman:


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Enoch said:


> ncfisherman...
> 
> That green looks awesome.


My first choice would have been purple, but I'm happy I ended up going with green. The frame color looks even better in person. I'll have to try and get a close-up that shows it better.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> I'm not sure I trust the bike shops around here to ream a head tube. I just moved to Lexington, KY and am not familiar with the bike shops.
> 
> Secondly I am like the third owner of this ****tylittle frame so I'm thinking it might have already been done?
> 
> I dunno. Was expecting the headset to be here today but alas, teas not.


You could definitely put a Cane Creek 40 headset in there, and it would be plug and play. Just call them directly and tell them what you got.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> Haha! That whore! She's had so many headsets pressed in her it's disgusting.


I feel deprived! Someone else did her, so I didn't have to, and I think the story is the same with EuroSpek.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

That green and silver looks great man. Awesome build.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

So I went to every LBS and noone has the proper tools to ream this beast. I don't know what to do. I pounded the bottom cup in, a little space between the cups and headtube on the bottom. I'm guessing that's normal and it shouldn't be a problem. I now the headtube was faced or at least it looked like it. Will post pics up it will even show up. It's so small that I'm not really worried about it, but I'm not sure what to do with the top cup. 

Anyone else have issues with the depth of a King inset in the Yelli Screamy?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

appleSSeed said:


> Anyone else have issues with the depth of a King inset in the Yelli Screamy?


There shouldn't be any gap. A king hs in a perfectly prepped head tube will look seamless. The cup is bottoming out on the ridge inside the head tube. If its even all the way around it may work fine but it could shift down the road.

I know the cane creek lower calls for 25mm of depth, the king may need more. It looks like the inserted portion of the king is deeper.

A quick fix would be to shave a little off the top of the cup, but you're going to lose most of the re-sale value if you do that.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

The bottom isn't hitting that lip, there is plenty of room. I'll continue to search for someone who can face and ream and install them both correctly. 

Thx.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

*59 pages, and I'm Sold ! ! !*

New to the forum, but not to biking. I decided I wanted to build up a 29" HT the other day and I started looking around on the net to see what was available out there. I came across the Yelli Screamy in my searching and was very intrigued. I found a link that lead me here to this very topic, and have read ALL 59 pages. I can barely see to type at this point. But after all of that reading I am SOLD.

I placed a call to Canfield yesterday and talked to Sean at length about this frame. He was more than gracious and helpful, and answered all of my questions that I had at the time. It's very comforting to know that you can just pickup the phone and call and get that kind of response.

They are very low on inventory at this point in time, and the frame I wanted was out of stock. But their new batch will be out sometime in March he said, so that gives me time to start putting together my parts list. He did tell me that frame colors will now be all anodized. No glossy colors if understood him correctly.

I currently ride a Niner Jet 9 Tang that I custom built up this past summer when I still lived in Bozeman MT. I thoroughly enjoy this bike, but felt like I wanted something a little different to go along with my Niner. After reading all the posts here about this frame I know I have found the right one. I'm sure I will be asking a lot of questions of all of you that have this frame as I go through this process. Now let the fun begin.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> He did tell me that frame colors will now be all anodized. No glossy colors if understood him correctly.


That's awesome!! :thumbsup:


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

kevinboyer said:


> He did tell me that frame colors will now be all anodized. No glossy colors if understood him correctly.


Oh if there is going to be an anodized green, I'm swapping frames!!!


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Any other news on the frame besides the all ano finishes?
Any change to the original design geometry? If so it might be good to get in on the v.1 frameset if there is one in your size. Regardless of color. Just throwing that out there, as I'm sure they will be all good changes if there are any.
It sounds amazing as those 59 pages can attest to.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

If anyone is swapping on changing I'm after a medium!


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

JoshM said:


> Any other news on the frame besides the all ano finishes?
> Any change to the original design geometry? If so it might be good to get in on the v.1 frameset if there is one in your size. Regardless of color. Just throwing that out there, as I'm sure they will be all good changes if there are any.
> It sounds amazing as those 59 pages can attest to.


Josh,

Sean didn't bring up anything about any changes other than the colors, but that doesn't mean there won't be. I'm sure I'll be talking to him again real soon, so I'll make sure to ask him.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

appleSSeed said:


> So I went to every LBS and noone has the proper tools to ream this beast. I don't know what to do. I pounded the bottom cup in, a little space between the cups and headtube on the bottom. I'm guessing that's normal and it shouldn't be a problem. I now the headtube was faced or at least it looked like it. Will post pics up it will even show up. It's so small that I'm not really worried about it, but I'm not sure what to do with the top cup.
> 
> Anyone else have issues with the depth of a King inset in the Yelli Screamy?


Not too surprised that noone has the tools. I only found two shops locally that had the King reamers and this area has a lot of bike shops - none of them had the Parktool ZS44 reamer either.

Any gap is not normal - could possibly damage to the headtube by riding it. The headtube and BBs come faced on the YS(atleast on mine), but the BB threads were not chased.

Good luck with finding that King reamer.


----------



## StoutHokie (Dec 26, 2011)

Went for my first ride on my Yelli Screamy today. What a great bike!! Been out of the saddle for about 10 years with little ones and finally getting back on the trails. So glad I ended up with this bike!!


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> New to the forum, but not to biking. I decided I wanted to build up a 29" HT the other day and I started looking around on the net to see what was available out there. I came across the Yelli Screamy in my searching and was very intrigued. I found a link that lead me here to this very topic, and have read ALL 59 pages. I can barely see to type at this point. But after all of that reading I am SOLD.
> 
> I placed a call to Canfield yesterday and talked to Sean at length about this frame. He was more than gracious and helpful, and answered all of my questions that I had at the time. It's very comforting to know that you can just pickup the phone and call and get that kind of response.
> 
> ...


Funny you should think like me... I too, have a Jet 9, Kermit Green. I think you'll love that YS if you run it 1 x 9.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

RandyBoy said:


> Funny you should think like me... I too, have a Jet 9, Kermit Green. I think you'll love that YS if you run it 1 x 9.


I'm in the early stages of putting my parts list together and am leaning towards running 2 x 10 mostly for situations that call for long climbing. Even going 2 x 10 is something completely new to me. I've always had bikes set up 3 x 10. 1 x 9 might be a big stretch to start off with. What are your thoughts?


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> I'm in the early stages of putting my parts list together and am leaning towards running 2 x 10 mostly for situations that call for long climbing. Even going 2 x 10 is something completely new to me. I've always had bikes set up 3 x 10. 1 x 9 might be a big stretch to start off with. What are your thoughts?


I'm building my YS as a 1x10. I have a 3x9 XC bike, and the YS will be for technical stuff that the carbon XC bike is not fit for. If this is your only ride, then you probably should do a 3x9 or 3x10. I can't speak with expertise, but after reading this thread it seems that 2x is the toughest configuration to figure out due to the chainstay yoke clearance. I suggest doing some research and asking questions, folks have been very forthcoming...


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> I'm building my YS as a 1x10. I have a 3x9 XC bike, and the YS will be for technical stuff that the carbon XC bike is not fit for. If this is your only ride, then you probably should do a 3x9 or 3x10. I can't speak with expertise, but after reading this thread it seems that 2x is the toughest configuration to figure out due to the chainstay yoke clearance. I suggest doing some research and asking questions, folks have been very forthcoming...


I'm currently riding a Niner Jet 9 in 3 x 10 configuration. I have read about some of the issues a few of the members have had. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day and told him how I was going to set this frame up, he said it would be fine, but I would be glad to hear from anyone that has any guidance in this matter. Are the issues occurring in all 2x configurations?


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## pamt (May 28, 2009)

kevinboyer said:


> I'm currently riding a Niner Jet 9 in 3 x 10 configuration. I have read about some of the issues a few of the members have had. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day and told him how I was going to set this frame up, he said it would be fine, but I would be glad to hear from anyone that has any guidance in this matter. Are the issues occurring in all 2x configurations?


+1....Getting ready to pre-order a 2012 and was going to run a X9 2x10 crank so any opinions would greatly be appreciated.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

pamt said:


> +1....Getting ready to pre-order a 2012 and was going to run a X9 2x10 crank so any opinions would greatly be appreciated.


Take a look at this video, you'll see that a 22-32-44 if very close. Ask Sean what 2x10 rings/cranks they know work. Also different cranks have different chainlines, so that will influence how close the rings are to the yoke as well. I'm running 1x10 initially, but would like to be able to consider 2x10 as an option. I'd like to know how this works out for you.

Yelli Screamy tech - YouTube


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Are you thinking taking a 3x10 and running a bash on large ring, or a true 2x10 crank? Also, if you are considering running fat tires like the 2.4 Ardents or 2.35 Hans Dampf consider your tire clearance with the FD. I think people are using an XT FD and cutting the unused cable arm off.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

kevinboyer said:


> I'm in the early stages of putting my parts list together and am leaning towards running 2 x 10 mostly for situations that call for long climbing. Even going 2 x 10 is something completely new to me. I've always had bikes set up 3 x 10. 1 x 9 might be a big stretch to start off with. What are your thoughts?


The 2x 10, for the most part, don't fit on the Yelli. The best chance is with the 38 / 24 combination. It is also possible to add one spacer to the BB on the drive side to make the room needed. The 3x cranksets are a much better fit or as mentioned before, a 1x.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

flymybike said:


> The 2x 10, for the most part, don't fit on the Yelli. The best chance is with the 38 / 24 combination. It is also possible to add one spacer to the BB on the drive side to make the room needed. The 3x cranksets are a much better fit or as mentioned before, a 1x.


What about a 26/36 in the 9sp crank? I'm thinking specifically about the XT 771, which comes 26/36/46 and with a 51mm chainline (I think...WRONG, it's 50mm). Replace the 46 w/bash. If not, can the SLX double 9sp work with a 26T inside ring? Essentially, all trail riding would be in the 26T and the bigger gear would be for flatlanding. Or is there just no getting anything large than a 24T ring on the inside? If none of the above, I guess I'll go 1x10 on a triple.


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## pamt (May 28, 2009)

flymybike said:


> The 2x 10, for the most part, don't fit on the Yelli. The best chance is with the 38 / 24 combination. It is also possible to add one spacer to the BB on the drive side to make the room needed. The 3x cranksets are a much better fit or as mentioned before, a 1x.


I'm cool with a 1x10, I can still run the X9 crank with a spiderless from Homebrew


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> What about a 26/36 in the 9sp crank? I'm thinking specifically about the XT 771, which comes 26/36/46 and with a 51mm chainline (I think).


I'm not going to say its impossible, because I've never actually had one of those xt touring cranks in my hands, but I can't see any way a triple crank with a 36 in the middle is going to work. My 32 only has a few mm clearance with my xt cranks.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Gonna order up a Cane Creek 110 in the proper fitting sizes...can anyone confirm that the 110 fits? Is it the same as the 50?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

you need a 44mm upper. Zero Stack. ZS in the name.

The bottom depends on your fork. Tapered or strait.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> What about a 26/36 in the 9sp crank? I'm thinking specifically about the XT 771, which comes 26/36/46 and with a 51mm chainline (I think). Replace the 46 w/bash. If not, can the SLX double 9sp work with a 26T inside ring? Essentially, all trail riding would be in the 26T and the bigger gear would be for flatlanding. Or is there just no getting anything large than a 24T ring on the inside? If none of the above, I guess I'll go 1x10 on a triple.


I am running a XT 770 crank with 26/36 -8 rings on my Yelli.
I did have to add 1 spacer...I think it was a .7 spacer...to the drive side


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> I am running a XT 770 crank with 26/36 -8 rings on my Yelli.
> I did have to add 1 spacer...I think it was a .7 spacer...to the drive side


Any potential negatives with using a spacer?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Any potential negatives with using a spacer?


IT MIGHT CAUSE A TEAR IN THE TIME / SPACE CONTINUEM?
Otherwise...it's friggin .7 mm....a little more than a C hair.....


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

JoshM said:


> you need a 44mm upper. Zero Stack. ZS in the name.
> 
> The bottom depends on your fork. Tapered or strait.


Got that. Mainly talking about the depth which is the problem with a King, not with a 50, guessing not with a 110 either. Will contact Cane Creek. Just figured someone has a 110 already installed. Sure wish RandyBoy would have just left the 50 in it that came with it when he bought it :-/


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> IT MIGHT CAUSE A TEAR IN THE TIME / SPACE CONTINUEM?
> Otherwise...it's friggin .7 mm....a little more than a C hair.....


Ha! I ask the dumb question because I thought I read something on here with a poster complaining that the spacer stripped out the crank arm or something. Thanks for the info. and for sizing a C hair for me.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Any potential negatives with using a spacer?


I don't want to have to use a spacer if at all possible. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day, I explained my plans to use this set up in a 2x10 configuration, and he agreed it would work. But I might have to think about the 24/38 as flymybike suggested. As this stage my drive train would be something like this...

Sram X9 175 GXP 26-39 crankset or 24/38
Sram PC-1070 11-36 rear cassette
Sram PC-1091 10 speed w/powerlock 114 links

Sram X7 FD
Sram X9 RD
Sram X9 2x10 shifters


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

appleSSeed said:


> Got that. Mainly talking about the depth which is the problem with a King, not with a 50, guessing not with a 110 either. Will contact Cane Creek. Just figured someone has a 110 already installed. Sure wish RandyBoy would have just left the 50 in it that came with it when he bought it :-/


The cane creek catalogs have the blueprints. The "shoulder" of the 40 external bottom is 15mm high and the 110 is slightly taller - 15.75. IMO, just to be safe, and because I know it works, get the 40. Its a damn nice headset.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> I don't want to have to use a spacer if at all possible. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day, I explained my plans to use this set up in a 2x10 configuration, and he agreed it would work. But I might have to think about the 24/38 as flymybike suggested. As this stage my drive train would be something like this...
> 
> Sram X9 175 GXP 26-39 crankset or 24/38
> Sram PC-1070 11-36 rear cassette
> ...


Looks like a nice build, post some pics as you build and when done please.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Looks like a nice build, post some pics as you build and when done please.


I certainly will post pictures. With the new production of frames not being available until some time in mid-March, I will have to curb my enthusiasm for a couple of months. The nice thing about having to wait is it will give me plenty of time to really figure out my complete parts list. Right now I like where I'm at with my drivetrain, but things can change.

On a side note, I talked to Sean again yesterday. One thing I forgot to mention in one of my previous posts was that they will be introducing a new frame color. It's supposed to be a royal blue anodized, so that might change my thoughts on the anodized purple color. But probably not..


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

kevinboyer said:


> I don't want to have to use a spacer if at all possible. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day, I explained my plans to use this set up in a 2x10 configuration, and he agreed it would work. But I might have to think about the 24/38 as flymybike suggested. As this stage my drive train would be something like this...
> Sram X9 175 GXP 26-39 crankset or 24/38
> Sram X9 2x10 shifters


You might not have to use a spacer with the 2 ring cranks. Most of them have the rings spaced to the outside. In other words,,, the small ring is almost in the same position as the middle ring on a triple crank.
I used a triple XT crank and put a 26 small ring and 36 or 38 middle ring and no big ring....
I have a Rotor 3D XC2 crank with 27/38 Q Rings that I am going to try when I get the chance


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

the mayor said:


> You might not have to use a spacer with the 2 ring cranks. Most of them have the rings spaced to the outside. In other words,,, the small ring is almost in the same position as the middle ring on a triple crank.
> I used a triple XT crank and put a 26 small ring and 36 or 38 middle ring and no big ring....
> I have a Rotor 3D XC2 crank with 27/38 Q Rings that I am going to try when I get the chance


Man that Rotor stuff is nice, but whew the price!!! Now I have to throw this into the equation.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> I certainly will post pictures. With the new production of frames not being available until some time in mid-March, I will have to curb my enthusiasm for a couple of months. The nice thing about having to wait is it will give me plenty of time to really figure out my complete parts list. Right now I like where I'm at with my drivetrain, but things can change.
> 
> On a side note, I talked to Sean again yesterday. One thing I forgot to mention in one of my previous posts was that they will be introducing a new frame color.* It's supposed to be a royal blue anodized, so that might change my thoughts on the anodized purple color. *But probably not..


Boo, I was pushing for the titanium grey anodized from their The One frames.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

kevinboyer said:


> Man that Rotor stuff is nice, but whew the price!!! Now I have to throw this into the equation.


It is nice stuff.....but pricey. I do like the qrings...have them on every bike except the Yelli.
I don't know if the set up will fit.
And between riding and starting a new business....it could be a while before I try it.
and I probably shouldn't be screwing around here......


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Ha! I ask the dumb question because I thought I read something on here with a poster complaining that the spacer stripped out the crank arm or something. Thanks for the info. and for sizing a C hair for me.


I'm in the North East.....our C hairs are pretty thick. Think wooly mammouth....
Check with your local bureau of standards ....


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

92gli said:


> I'm not going to say its impossible, because I've never actually had one of those xt touring cranks in my hands, but I can't see any way a triple crank with a 36 in the middle is going to work. My 32 only has a few mm clearance with my xt cranks.


Ah. I was worried about the inside ring and brain farting the middle ring. Too bad. Blueskycycling is blowing out the XT 780 Touring cranks at super sweet pricing. I also thought that I read somewhere--maybe the Shimano site--that the touring cranks had a bit wider spacing (*EDIT*: wrong, it's narrower, 50mm chainline), and I had hoped the extra would make room for the chainrings on the Yelli.

Guess I'm going to have to reconsider my 1x10 options or use spacers. My local trails are rolling hills--straight up, straight down and repeat over and over. I'm generally only pedaling while climbing. I was hoping with the 26T chainring I could keep my chain ranging through the middle of the cassette more in order to improve chainline. With a 32T, which I use now, I'm most often only in the highest 4-5 gears. It would be cool if I could get that range through the middle of the cassette. I'm only niggling about this because it's time for a new crank and drivetrain.

Question to all: Which clyde worthy cranks would work with a Homebrewed spiderless chainring and external bb. I hear about the XO often, but are there others?


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## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

kevinboyer said:


> I don't want to have to use a spacer if at all possible. When I talked to Sean at Canfield the other day, I explained my plans to use this set up in a 2x10 configuration, and he agreed it would work. But I might have to think about the 24/38 as flymybike suggested. As this stage my drive train would be something like this...
> 
> Sram X9 175 GXP 26-39 crankset or 24/38
> Sram PC-1070 11-36 rear cassette
> ...


Kevin,

I dont think the Sram X9 crank in a 2x10 config. with the large ring a 38 or 39 will work on the Yelli. I had that same crank with one spacer on the driveside, and a 36 would just clear the frame. It had maybe 1mm of clearance. Then their is the front derailluer issue. The best fitting one for tire issues is the Shimano XT 771 9speed 3 chainring.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

pdqmach26 said:


> Kevin,
> 
> I dont think the Sram X9 crank in a 2x10 config. with the large ring a 38 or 39 will work on the Yelli. I had that same crank with one spacer on the driveside, and a 36 would just clear the frame. It had maybe 1mm of clearance. Then their is the front derailluer issue. The best fitting one for tire issues is the Shimano XT 771 9speed 3 chainring.


Damn....I don't like hearing that. I am anxiously waiting to hear back from Sean at Canfield concerning this. He was going to talk to Lance about it.

Is it possible to use the Shimano crank with Sram components? I want to stay with Sram, so are there any 2x10 configurations that will work with the Yelli? Or what about a 2x9?


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

Cranks are cranks.....you can use a Shimano crank with SRAM ders.....and vice versa.
And there is no such thing as a 10 speed crank....
I had a 771 crank.....if I remember, it had a slightly longer axle and a spacer on the spider that pushed it out more.
Like I said...I got a 770 triple to work just fine with 26/38 rings with a .7 mm spacer.
I run a XT front derailleur and have no clearance issues with a Rampage tire...


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

the mayor said:


> Cranks are cranks.....you can use a Shimano crank with SRAM ders.....and vice versa.
> And there is no such thing as a 10 speed crank....
> I had a 771 crank.....if I remember, it had a slightly longer axle and a spacer on the spider that pushed it out more.
> Like I said...I got a 770 triple to work just fine with 26/38 rings with a .7 mm spacer.
> I run a XT front derailleur and have no clearance issues with a Rampage tire...


AHHHHHHRG!:madman: I love my Yelli, but between the confusing choices on headset, which took me forever to figure out, and the limitations on cranks, which still presents a myriad of conflicting reports, I'm about to blow a gasket. Maybe I'll just stick with my old worn out square taper cranks.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

pdqmach26 said:


> Kevin,
> 
> I dont think the Sram X9 crank in a 2x10 config. with the large ring a 38 or 39 will work on the Yelli. I had that same crank with one spacer on the driveside, and a 36 would just clear the frame. It had maybe 1mm of clearance. Then their is the front derailluer issue. The best fitting one for tire issues is the Shimano XT 771 9speed 3 chainring.


If you are a Clyde, and pedal up steep stuff, you may get tire rub against the FD running 3x9. I did, running a Truvative Stylo 22-32-44. I believe the chain line on that is 51.5mm, someone that knows more can correct me, if need be.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

RandyBoy said:


> If you are a Clyde, and pedal up steep stuff, you may get tire rub against the FD running 3x9. I did, running a Truvative Stylo 22-32-44. I believe the chain line on that is 51.5mm, someone that knows more can correct me, if need be.


Ok. If I can't come up with a 2x solution that I'm happy with, I'm going to stick to 1x9 or 10. Now, if I run a spider less chainring from Homebrewed on a sram/truvative crank, is that going to bring the chainring and chain too far in on the Yelli? I have no idea how far a spider less chainring will narrow a clearance. I'll probably use a 30T or less. Anybody got an idea on that one? For spider less cranks, the options are: Middleburn, White Industries, Truvative xo or x9. Thoughts on clydeworthyness?

Hope not everyone is annoyed with me by now. I'll check with the Canefields eventually. I thought I saw a post by one of them with a picture of the wider Q factored Sram 2x stuff that made it appear as if the 156(is that right?) Q factor would work. Course I don't know what that would mean for the front der. and wider tires.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Ok. If I can't come up with a 2x solution that I'm happy with, I'm going to stick to 1x9 or 10. Now, if I run a spider less chainring from Homebrewed on a sram/truvative crank, is that going to bring the chainring and chain too far in on the Yelli? I have no idea how far a spider less chainring will narrow a clearance. I'll probably use a 30T or less. Anybody got an idea on that one? For spider less cranks, the options are: Middleburn, White Industries, Truvative xo or x9. Thoughts on clydeworthyness?
> 
> Hope not everyone is annoyed with me by now. I'll check with the Canefields eventually. I thought I saw a post by one of them with a picture of the wider Q factored Sram 2x stuff that made it appear as if the 156(is that right?) Q factor would work. Course I don't know what that would mean for the front der. and wider tires.


Not at all annoyed. This is info we all need to know. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what my next move is. I am going to put a call in to Sean first of next week to see what he found out from Lance in regards to my situation. I don't want to have to go 1x10. I'd rather have the choice of a 2x system.

@RandyBoy...not a Clyde anymore. Since I moved from Montana here to Georgia, there are not the steeps that I was used to there. Now mostly single track trails and rolling terrain with some small climbing thrown in now and then.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Ok. If I can't come up with a 2x solution that I'm happy with, I'm going to stick to 1x9 or 10. Now, if I run a spider less chainring from Homebrewed on a sram/truvative crank, is that going to bring the chainring and chain too far in on the Yelli? I have no idea how far a spider less chainring will narrow a clearance. I'll probably use a 30T or less. Anybody got an idea on that one? For spider less cranks, the options are: Middleburn, White Industries, Truvative xo or x9. Thoughts on clydeworthyness?
> 
> Hope not everyone is annoyed with me by now. I'll check with the Canefields eventually. I thought I saw a post by one of them with a picture of the wider Q factored Sram 2x stuff that made it appear as if the 156(is that right?) Q factor would work. Course I don't know what that would mean for the front der. and wider tires.


Per my conversation with Dan at HBC, using a spiderless chainring on an X7,X9,X0 crankset, the chaining is about 1mm outboard of the middle ring on a 3X set-up. With that, I ordered a X9 crankset and a 32t chainring, got my fingers crossed.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I was wondering about that for a new build. Thanks for posting that.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Thought I'd post mine up. It's been a while since I've owned a digital camera, so the pictures aren't great. Ano purple size L (I probably could have gone with an XL).



















White Spank Spike 777mm bars will arrive later next week. Considering moving SLX brakes over to DJ bike and getting some new XT's. Oh, bikes...


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*Wheelbase with a 140mm fork?*

I am trying to figure out what a angleset will do to the geo.
:aureola:
The large frame has a 1103mm wheelbase with what I think is a 100mm fork.

A guesstimate with the 140mm fork would be around 1110mm or so with a head angle of 67 degrees.

The angleset should give about a 68.3 head angle and 1097 wheelbase according to canecreeks calculator.

Does this seem correct?:aureola:

Edit. looks like a 1107mm wheelbase with the angleset set up to steepen the head angle.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Mr. Doom said:


> I am trying to figure out what a angleset will do to the geo.
> :aureola:
> The large frame has a 1103mm wheelbase with what I think is a 100mm fork.
> 
> ...


My L with a Reba 140 and CC EC headset is about 1120mm


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Slurry said:


> Thought I'd post mine up. It's been a while since I've owned a digital camera, so the pictures aren't great. Ano purple size L (I probably could have gone with an XL).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Slurry, are you running a 2x configuration, and if so, what are the components you are using...FD, Crankset, RD, chain, cassette? Sweet build. The new anodized purple is what I'm going for.


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## AaronJobe (Sep 20, 2009)

Any pics of the Anodize Gold?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

AaronJobe said:


> Any pics of the Anodize Gold?


I don't think that color is making a comeback any time soon. When I spoke with Chris a few months ago, he said this color was rather unpopular.

Here are some pics though. :thumbsup:


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

AaronJobe said:


> Any pics of the Anodize Gold?


Sure, here is mine.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

the mayor said:


> Cranks are cranks.....you can use a Shimano crank with SRAM ders.....and vice versa.
> And there is no such thing as a 10 speed crank....
> I had a 771 crank.....if I remember, it had a slightly longer axle and a spacer on the spider that pushed it out more.
> Like I said...I got a 770 triple to work just fine with 26/38 rings with a .7 mm spacer.
> I run a XT front derailleur and have no clearance issues with a Rampage tire...


the mayor... to achieve a 26/38 did you have the 770 triple first, and then dismantle the original rings and then purchase the 26 & 38 rings to rebuild it? I have found a new pair of XT MC-770 arms w/bottom bracket for sale so if that configuration worked for you maybe that's the way I'll go.


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> Slurry, are you running a 2x configuration, and if so, what are the components you are using...FD, Crankset, RD, chain, cassette? Sweet build. The new anodized purple is what I'm going for.


XT cranks with 22/32/Gamut Bash, SLX 9s mid cage RD, 9s 11-34 Shimano cassette, KMC chain. I'm running the 9s triple SLX direct mount FD; it works (after grinding off the dual-pull tab on the back), but a 2.35 rampage will rub on the inner plate when standing/pedaling hard in the granny ring. The chain will very occasionally hop over the bash guard and start to fall when im coasting through rock gardens or other rough stuff. A bigger bash guard or a light chain guide would fix this.

I'm also suspicious that one of the 2x10 front derailleurs would work just fine on a 22/32 9spd setup and also provide more tire clearance. I have yet to get my hands on one to test it out - maybe you can ?


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

kevinboyer said:


> the mayor... to achieve a 26/38 did you have the 770 triple first, and then dismantle the original rings and then purchase the 26 & 38 rings to rebuild it? I have found a new pair of XT MC-770 arms w/bottom bracket for sale so if that configuration worked for you maybe that's the way I'll go.


That is what I did. The 26and 38 rings are Blackspire and the 36 ( which I use most of the time) is a Shimano. Bought the rings from Universalcycles..

Like I said...I have a Rotor crank with 27/36 Qrings that is on my Lenz....will try them at some point.

I think a lot of guys are over thinking the whole deal....it's a frame and crank....not to hard to pair them up.


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## AaronJobe (Sep 20, 2009)

nitrousjunky said:


> Sure, here is mine.


That does not look gold to me looks more like titanium


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

wrong, disregard


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Slurry said:


> Thought I'd post mine up. It's been a while since I've owned a digital camera, so the pictures aren't great. Ano purple size L (I probably could have gone with an XL).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you intentionally put your grips on backwards?


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*Wip*


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Asmodeus2112 said:


>


Asmodeus....what 1x set-up is that you're running?


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> Asmodeus....what 1x set-up is that you're running?


Not running it yet, but hopefully next weekend. 2012 X.7 short cage, SRAM 1070 Cassette 11-36, Truvative Stylo 1.1 w/32T, MRP 1x. SRAM 1031 Chain.

First time building a 1x10, so fingers crossed. :winker:


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Not running it yet, but hopefully next weekend. 2012 X.7 short cage, SRAM 1070 Cassette 11-36, Truvative Stylo 1.1 w/32T, MRP 1x. SRAM 1031 Chain.
> 
> First time building a 1x10, so fingers crossed. :winker:


Looks really clean. I'm a little gun shy about going 1x at this point in time, but I think I have my 2x drivetrain finally set after much deliberation.That MRP 1x is quite interesting. Its purpose is more of a guide for the chain correct?


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


>


Unfortunately that mrp isn't low enough to do its job. You might not be able to run it with the bash. It needs to practically be kissing the chainring teeth, like so - 









With a 32t you may even need to bevel the bottom edge a bit with a dremel so the crank tabs clear it. Mine is beveled and only has a C hair of clearance between the chain and the guide.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

92gli said:


> Unfortunately that mrp isn't low enough to do its job. You might not be able to run it with the bash. It needs to practically be kissing the chainring teeth, like so -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I agree. I'm just getting things on, haven't adjusted/tweeked yet. Jumped the gun on posting before the bike was complete, but was enjoying how it looked and thought I'd share.


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> Looks really clean. I'm a little gun shy about going 1x at this point in time, but I think I have my 2x drivetrain finally set after much deliberation.That MRP 1x is quite interesting. Its purpose is more of a guide for the chain correct?


Yes, it's only purpose is to keep the chain guided onto the chainring as you pedal. When going through the gnar the chain will fly all over the place and without a front derailleur or chainguide will drop.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Thanks, I agree. I'm just getting things on, haven't adjusted/tweeked yet. Jumped the gun on posting before the bike was complete, but was enjoying how it looked and thought I'd share.


Oh yeah... there's no cable there. Duh. Sorry :thumbsup:


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

92gli said:


> Oh yeah... there's no cable there. Duh. Sorry :thumbsup:


Hey, no problem. Thanks for pointing this out, this will help me as I try to get this dialed in. I'm a newb at 1x drivetrains. BTW, with my MRP 1x came some little spacers. I think this is a new addition to the product as earlier in this thread it was mention to use presta valve nuts to space it out if it rubs...


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Hey, no problem. Thanks for pointing this out, this will help me as I try to get this dialed in. I'm a newb at 1x drivetrains. BTW, with my MRP 1x came some little spacers. I think this is a new addition to the product as earlier in this thread it was mention to use presta valve nuts to space it out if it rubs...


I had to space mine out just a hair - I used a thin little washer from something. The bracket can also bend _a little_ if the plastic part doesn't sit square to the ring - just be careful if you try that.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Got started installing the pile of parts I have been gathering for the bike.
Things came to an abrupt halt when I realized I don't have a crank tool for the SLX cranks.
Headset pressed in with just some grease, bottom went in harder than top. Bottom bracket was able to be turned in all the way using just finger pressure. I didn't prep the frame, other than a rag to wipe some threads and a good quality grease.
Any questions just ask. Sorry for the sh*itty picture.
No weights for anything. My wife doesn't like me trying to weigh bike parts on the kitchen scale, and I don't care that much about it.

Those are orange bars. Eurospek's orders.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JoshM said:


> Those are orange bars. Eurospek's orders.


Starting to look sick with the all black fork and wheels and the orange Raceface. Def. jealous. :thumbsup:


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> Got started installing the pile of parts I have been gathering for the bike.
> Things came to an abrupt halt when I realized I don't have a crank tool for the SLX cranks.
> Headset pressed in with just some grease, bottom went in harder than top. Bottom bracket was able to be turned in all the way using just finger pressure. I didn't prep the frame, other than a rag to wipe some threads and a good quality grease.
> Any questions just ask. Sorry for the sh*itty picture.
> ...


Nice, the orange bar is a nice touch!:thumbsup:


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

One I have it all together and cleaned up I will get some shots with a proper DSLR and post them up.
The all black frame, components and fork look really sharp with the orange bar.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

92gli said:


> Unfortunately that mrp isn't low enough to do its job. You might not be able to run it with the bash.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been running the same Stylo cranks & MRP guide for several months and haven't dropped the chain. Should be good to go as is Asmodeus


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> I've been running the same Stylo cranks & MRP guide for several months and haven't dropped the chain. Should be good to go as is Asmodeus


Good to hear, thanks! I'd rep you and 92gli, but I'm all out!


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

*done for now.*

Finally got this used med black ano built up with a mix of used and new parts.
First run will be later today during my mid-day break. Should be fun and challenging running this as a SS.

I was actually waiting for the new black ano shipment last summer but became impatient so I build up a Turner Sultan which I have been riding almost exclusively the past 4 mos.
When I was ready to build up the Yelli all the med black anos were sold out :madman:
Found this used on just before the holidays and have been collecting parts for 2 months.
Bummer the seller removed all the decals and head tube badge... but the frame was super clean otherwise.
some specs....
- Fox 34 Talas
- Hope Tech M4 Special Editions 183 f/r
- Easton Havoc Carbon bars
- Reverb
- I9/Flows/Ardents 2.4s
- Middleburn cranks 
- gearing is 32x20[Boone Ti]

I will probably end up running gears when I replace my old drivetrain on my 5Spot.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

" the seller removed all the decals and head tube badge"
What a nob that guy was, the decals look so cool on black


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

wobbem said:


> " the seller removed all the decals and head tube badge"
> What a nob that guy was, the decals look so cool on black


I will confess that last summer I had bought a silver one from my LBS thinking I was going to get it powder-coated matte black. Then the plan was to have the decals re-made in a glossy black for a black on black theme... but it could not be done as I couldn't get the vector art [that's what JNC needed] from Canfield... though it was around the same time Chris got into his accident, so no big deal if it couldn't be done. Anyways ended up returning the frame and got my Sultan for my 29er fix :thumbsup: Everything turned ok for me... can't complain.
I have an email into Sean and he's looking to see if they have some extra head tube badges.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

rodel said:


> I will confess that last summer I had bought a silver one from my LBS thinking I was going to get it powder-coated matte black. Then the plan was to have the decals re-made in a glossy black for a black on black theme... but it could not be done as I couldn't get the vector art [that's what JNC needed] from Canfield... though it was around the same time Chris got into his accident, so no big deal if it couldn't be done. Anyways ended up returning the frame and got my Sultan for my 29er fix :thumbsup: Everything turned ok for me... can't complain.
> I have an email into Sean and he's looking to see if they have some extra head tube badges.


Nice bike! At least you got the CB logo's on the seat tube. Let us know what you think after riding. I'm hoping to ride mine for the first time this weekend. Had all the parts, but then the wife said her riser on her new bike put her to high, so I gave her my flat. New bar showed up yesterday, so hopefully I can complete the build tonight and it won't rain too much...


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

rodel said:


> - gearing is 32x20[Boone Ti]


Tensioner?

Morgan


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

morganfletcher said:


> Tensioner?
> 
> Morgan


Yes, Gusset - Bachelor Single Speed Tensioner
I'll take a pic and post later today after my shake down ride.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

rodel said:


> I will confess that last summer I had bought a silver one from my LBS thinking I was going to get it powder-coated matte black. Then the plan was to have the decals re-made in a glossy black for a black on black theme... but it could not be done as I couldn't get the vector art [that's what JNC needed] from Canfield... though it was around the same time Chris got into his accident, so no big deal if it couldn't be done. Anyways ended up returning the frame and got my Sultan for my 29er fix :thumbsup: Everything turned ok for me... can't complain.
> I have an email into Sean and he's looking to see if they have some extra head tube badges.


Rodel, you have one of my favorite Yelli builds in this thread. Stealth is the way!


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Time to post the latest version of my Yelli (first version here)
Fox 34 talas (in place of the Maverick DUC) and Ardent2.4. 
Now waiting for an MRP Lopes chainguide.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

rodel said:


> I will probably end up running gears when I replace my old drivetrain on my 5Spot.


I think that looks sick without the regular logos. All it's missing is the headtube badge and it will be killer!! Awesome build.

Any idea how the previous owner got rid of the logos? These are definitely not stickers that you peel off normally but printed over the ano finish. Wonder how you can take it off.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

^ I was wondering the same thing.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JoshM said:


> ^ I was wondering the same thing.


The "decals" on the Yelli frame I think are applied like a silk screening process on t-shirts for example. When I had the purple frame, some of the letters in the Canfield logo on the downtube had very tiny rock chips with paint missing, but not all the way to the raw aluminum. The purple ano finish was still there. Something like a nail-polish remover might take off the stuff leaving the ano finish intact I'd imagine.

You should experiment.


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

eurospek said:


> I think that looks sick without the regular logos. All it's missing is the headtube badge and it will be killer!! Awesome build.
> 
> Any idea how the previous owner got rid of the logos? These are definitely not stickers that you peel off normally but printed over the ano finish. Wonder how you can take it off.


Thanks, the stealthy look of the Stumpy EVO 29er was my inspiration.

The guy I bought from is a local bike mech so I can ask. 
When I asked Canfield about decal replacements, Sean had mentioned that the decals were 'baked' in, which is why one can't get them replaced.... I'd love a new head tube badge though.

I'm lucky enough to work for a company that allows me to ride during my lunch break.



























so far it's a great ride... though I'll need to get used to a hardtail, I noticed I couldn't carry the same types of speeds I do on my Sultan through the chunk... Perhaps picking smoother lines will help.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

rodel said:


> The guy I bought from is a local bike mech so I can ask.


Please do if it's not too much trouble. I would love to find out.

And excellent pics, I love the look of the all black frame. Nice and stealth. :thumbsup:


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*MRP 1x Chainline Adjustment*

Hey ya'll that run MRP 1x D-mounts. How do you adjust the guide for chainline? My Stylo 1.1 32T chainring looks like it has the chainline right in the middle of the cassette, which is ideal, right? Unfrotunatly the MRP guide is in about 2mm. They include 4 spacers for "fine chainline adjustability", but no mention of how to use them in the manual. I assume they include these to space the chainring off the crank spider, but this seems backwards. I want to adjust the guide to accomodate the chainline, not the other way around. I suppose I could add a spacer on the non-drive side and pull the chainring in, but again it doesn't seem right to mess with the chainline if it's ideal.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Hey ya'll that run MRP 1x D-mounts. How do you adjust the guide for chainline? My Stylo 1.1 32T chainring looks like it has the chainline right in the middle of the cassette, which is ideal, right? Unfrotunatly the MRP guide is in about 2mm. They include 4 spacers for "fine chainline adjustability", but no mention of how to use them in the manual. I assume they include these to space the chainring off the crank spider, but this seems backwards. I want to adjust the guide to accomodate the chainline, not the other way around. I suppose I could add a spacer on the non-drive side and pull the chainring in, but again it doesn't seem right to mess with the chainline if it's ideal.


Just put thin washers in between the bracket and the plastic piece. If the guide isn't square to the chainring you can (very gently) twist the bracket a little with pliers when its bolted to the frame.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Hey ya'll that run MRP 1x D-mounts. How do you adjust the guide for chainline? My Stylo 1.1 32T chainring looks like it has the chainline right in the middle of the cassette, which is ideal, right? Unfrotunatly the MRP guide is in about 2mm. They include 4 spacers for "fine chainline adjustability", but no mention of how to use them in the manual. I assume they include these to space the chainring off the crank spider, but this seems backwards. I want to adjust the guide to accomodate the chainline, not the other way around. I suppose I could add a spacer on the non-drive side and pull the chainring in, but again it doesn't seem right to mess with the chainline if it's ideal.


Just put thin washers in between the bracket and the plastic piece. After that, If the guide isn't square to the chainring you can (very gently) twist the bracket a little with pliers when its bolted to the frame.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

92gli said:


> Just put thin washers in between the bracket and the plastic piece. After that, If the guide isn't square to the chainring you can (very gently) twist the bracket a little with pliers when its bolted to the frame.


Thanks, but I need more space than that. If I space it far enough then the tab that keeps if from rotating won't engage.

Perhaps I posted prematurely :eekster:, I should have done more research prior to posting but I'm getting anxious as this is pretty much the last thing before I can ride.

Seems like the chainline for the MRP is set at 50mm, but the Stylo is 52. Not sure as Truvative doesn't seem to publish this, but I'm still looking. I should have asked what the ideal chainline is in a 1x10 first. If indeed it is 50mm, then the 1x isnt' the problem but the chainline is. Edit: Stylo Chainline should be 51mm. I need to measure everything tonight to figure out what's going on...


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## blong (Oct 12, 2005)

I just ordered their last large!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Thanks, but I need more space than that. If I space it far enough then the tab that keeps if from rotating won't engage.
> 
> Perhaps I posted prematurely :eekster:, I should have done more research prior to posting but I'm getting anxious as this is pretty much the last thing before I can ride.
> 
> Seems like the chainline for the MRP is set at 50mm, but the Stylo is 52. Not sure as Truvative doesn't seem to publish this, but I'm still looking. I should have asked what the ideal chainline is in a 1x10 first. If indeed it is 50mm, then the 1x isnt' the problem but the chainline is.


When I did mine (same guide & cranks) the chain rubbed the guide when the cassette was in the smaller cogs. I split the guide in half & sandwiched a couple presta valve nuts in between to widen the guide. No more rub


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've got the mini G2 SL on my bike with SLX cranks and the chainring sits right in the middle of the guide.
When I'm in the smallest cog in rubs, as well as in the largest. It's pretty loud when just pedaling the bike by hand in the work stand. I'm hoping when it's on the trail and under load it's not as noticeable.
The presta valve nut trick wont work on the G2 as the top guide is a little different. Bolt wont reach threads any longer with a spacer.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> I've got the mini G2 SL on my bike with SLX cranks and the chainring sits right in the middle of the guide.
> When I'm in the smallest cog in rubs, as well as in the largest. It's pretty loud when just pedaling the bike by hand in the work stand. I'm hoping when it's on the trail and under load it's not as noticeable.
> The presta valve nut trick wont work on the G2 as the top guide is a little different. Bolt wont reach threads any longer with a spacer.


User NoahColorado works for MRP and is pretty helpful. He explains that a little rubbing on the sides is expected, and with some riding the plastic will wear and the sound will be reduced. In my case I have to take a look at my set up. The Stylo should have a 51mm chainline, and the MRP 50, so spacing 1mm should be easy, but I have more like 2-3mm offset. When I opened my 1x up I was pleased to see a little bag of spacers. I thought they did what the presta nuts do, but now I realize those are for spaceing the chainring over. Anyway, when I get home tonight I need to measure my chainline, I think something is hosed up there, even though it seems nice to have it go down the center of the cassette. Realistically I probably won't use the smallest cog much, so if I need to space it inboard a mm or so it's not the end of the world.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/68-vs-73-mm-bb-w-mrp-1x-chainguide-694955.html


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Mine is the BB mount MRP G2SL. 32-36T. Mounted with SLX cranks/BB70 bottom bracket. I made sure to clean and degrease the back of the mount and the face of the bb. I used a smear of retaining compound and it' wont budge once tightened to a snug fit.
I also tried the trick of getting a 1.5mm washer with a hole the fits between the end of my top guide. Going further in an attempt to get the top guide as low as possible I took a file to the edges of my spider so they won't make contact.
It still rubs a little but f u ck it, I'll be a little stronger in the long run.



Also in regards to the removal of the logos. ...


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm wishing I would have bought E-thirteen XCX-ST High Direct Mount Chain Guide as it Includes chainline alignment cams (set of 3)... I'll commence bending this PM.


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## whydomylegshurt? (Jul 28, 2004)

JoshM said:


> Mine is the BB mount MRP G2SL. 32-36T. Mounted with SLX cranks/BB70 bottom bracket. I made sure to clean and degrease the back of the mount and the face of the bb. I used a smear of retaining compound and it' wont budge once tightened to a snug fit.
> I also tried the trick of getting a 1.5mm washer with a hole the fits between the end of my top guide. Going further in an attempt to get the top guide as low as possible I took a file to the edges of my spider so they won't make contact.
> It still rubs a little but f u ck it, I'll be a little stronger in the long run.
> 
> Also in regards to the removal of the logos. ...


Goof Off

No, I'm not calling you names. Use goof off to remove decals from Anodized parts/frames. Test out a small area to make sure the anodizing is not damaged, then get a rag and remove the decal by simply rubbing it with Goof Off. I often remove logos from bars/stems/seatpost that way.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I sure hope I can get that in Canada.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

blong said:


> I just ordered their last large!


Congrats! What color?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

whydomylegshurt? said:


> Goof Off
> 
> No, I'm not calling you names. Use goof off to remove decals from Anodized parts/frames. Test out a small area to make sure the anodizing is not damaged, then get a rag and remove the decal by simply rubbing it with Goof Off. I often remove logos from bars/stems/seatpost that way.


Good to know. I was thinking about that last night. Never really used it on anything before though lol.

And JoshM, you should totally do it. Let me know if you can't find it in Canada.


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

been away from the site.

so the answer for the decals/logos...

he says he used acetone/nail polish remover.
used lightly with multiple passes...


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

rodel said:


> been away from the site.
> 
> so the answer for the decals/logos...
> 
> ...


Bingo! I was right on the money.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've got a whole bottle of nail polish remover and a big bag of cotton balls.
Once I get this bottle of spice rum into me, I might go at it.
I'm leaving the head badge on for sure.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> I've got a whole bottle of nail polish remover and a big bag of cotton balls.
> Once I get this bottle of spice rum into me, I might go at it.
> I'm leaving the head badge on for sure.


Sounds like a good Friday night to me!?!?


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> I've got a whole bottle of nail polish remover and a big bag of cotton balls.
> Once I get this bottle of spice rum into me, I might go at it.
> I'm leaving the head badge on for sure.


Just make sure not to get the bottles confused as the night goes on, and I recommend you work in a well ventilated space:0


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

*Here she is!*

Done, but of course it rained last night. Rode a bit on some trails, but it's too messy to really get a good ride in. Initially I really like the short wheelbase, easy to lift the front end, bike feels like it will turn well. First pass at setting up the Marz is good, room for improvement I'm sure. Love the 1x10. MRP is up to high due to the bash ring, but there's good tension on the chain from the short cage RD, so I believe that the MRP will only really need to keep the chain from going left or right. 28.68lbs. Can't wait for the trails to dry to for a proper break in! :thumbsup:


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

good looking build. nice weight to. my SS version came in at 28.7lbs gonna gain some weight if I convert it to gears.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Nice build, and sharp bike. What fork is that on the front?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Looks like a Marzocchi 44 Micro Ti


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Done, but of course it rained last night. Rode a bit on some trails, but it's too messy to really get a good ride in. Initially I really like the short wheelbase, easy to lift the front end, bike feels like it will turn well. First pass at setting up the Marz is good, room for improvement I'm sure. Love the 1x10. MRP is up to high due to the bash ring, but there's good tension on the chain from the short cage RD, so I believe that the MRP will only really need to keep the chain from going left or right. 28.68lbs. Can't wait for the trails to dry to for a proper break in! :thumbsup:


Let us know what you think of those Hans Damfs after a couple rides.


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> let us know what you think of those hans damfs after a couple rides.


+1


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## Winky (Jan 12, 2004)

*Decals??*

JoshM and or anyone else that has removed their decals. How did the nail polish remover or goof off work, and damage to the finish? I'm interested in removing the decals from my black ano frame.

I was thinking that either would work as the main ingredient in both is acetone but wanted to hear some from people that have done it to be sure i'm not gonna trash my frame.

Thanks,
Winky


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I'm waiting for the same thing Winky. I don't really want to take acetone to my frame and then discover it does something to the ano finish. 

We need a guinea pig frame donor who is willing to try first and report back. Any volunteers?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Yelli = done. Had it out for a little ride up and down the road just to make get a feel for it. XL size is spot on at 6'4". Cut the bars down from 785mm to 740mm. Wide is great, but I ride in the woods and trails are tight. Still debating the last decals on the rims, might leave em for now.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That looks excellent.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Good job JoshM, said it before but I'll say it again, orange bar on stealth is very cool. Got me thinking I need a blue bar on mine...


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Let us know what you think of those Hans Damfs after a couple rides.


Will do. I can tell you after a lite ride yesterday in the wet that the rear slides out on wet Austin rocks. Most others do to, and don't know the frame well enough to know if it has some to do with short wheelbase/chain stays and/or my riding style. They mounted and aired up on Charger wheels really easily and have not lost any pressure sitting idle for a week.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

My apologies for interrupting the gab-fest here! 

I got my frame Friday, built wheels Friday night and Saturday morning, and then in between rides and family stuff, I got the bike built by Saturday afternoon. Took it on an inaugural night ride last night, had to make a few small adjustments but it rocked! Got 2100' vertical in 12 miles, 1:42, and dinner was ready when I got home. Excellent.

Specs:

Bike setup:
* Frame Size & Color: XL black Yelli Screamy
* Fork: Rock Shox Revel-XX 2P-Air 1.5>1-1/8" 20-D 29", 140>110 - black
* Brakes: Avid X.9 2012 200 front 180 rear
* Shifter: 
* Cranks: 180mm E.thirteen xc / ss
* Chainguide: 
* Rear Derailleur: DMR tensioner
* Pedals: TIME ATAC XS Carbon
* Stem: Truvativ AKA AM 1-1/8" stem, (31.8) 5d x 60mm - black
* Handlebar: Race Face Atlas-FR riser bar, (31.8) .5" - nurple purple
* Seatpost: Crank Brothers Joplin 4 30.9, no remote for now, random 35mm qr clamp
* Saddle: WTB Silverado ti rails
* Bottom Bracket: E.thirteen
* Chainring: E.thirteen 32T purple Guide ring
* Chain: Gusset Slink chain, 3/32" - chrome
* Cassette: Rennen 21T cog, spacer kit from Performance
* Headset: Cane Creek 40-series ZS upper cup (short), 1-1/8"+tpr - blk, Cane Creek 40-series EC lower cup, 1.5>1-1/8" - blk
* Grips: Oury Lock-On bonus pack, Oury - black/black clamps
* Front Tire: Maxxis Ardent 29x2.4
* Front Rim: Stans Flow 32H 29 black
* Front Hub: Chub 20mm
* Rear Tire: Maxxis Ardent 29x2.4
* Rear Rim: Stans Flow 32H 29 black
* Rear Hub: SRAM X.9

* Future changes: X.9 1x10 drivetrain, Reverb seatpost

*Rider Setup
*Weight: 6'2"
*Height: 215lbs

I read that the 32x21 was a magic gear for this frame, but with a brand new chain it was just too tight, and adding a half-link (this chain is all half-links) it was too loose. So I put a tensioner on, and as it stretches I might try taking a half-link out. So far so good tho. I like the gear, usually run 32x20, but this was good on my trails. (up and down all the time)

I had a little too much air in the tires at 29/30, but freshly installed tubeless tires always need a little insurance. I'll drop 1-2psi next time. I think I put 165psi in the fork. Was surprised that it only had one air valve on top. Fork was a Christmas present from my wife. Once I had the fork, I had to figure out the rest!

Before:









After:









Thanks, Lance and Sean! This bike is a lot of fun. I think this will be my new play bike for a while.

Morgan


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

morganfletcher said:


> My apologies for interrupting the gab-fest here!
> 
> I got my frame Friday, built wheels Friday night and Saturday morning, and then in between rides and family stuff, I got the bike built by Saturday afternoon. Took it on an inaugural night ride last night, had to make a few small adjustments but it rocked! Got 2100' vertical in 12 miles, 1:42, and dinner was ready when I got home. Excellent.
> 
> ...


Very nice! What does it weigh?


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> Nice build, and sharp bike. What fork is that on the front?


Yes, as JoshM called it it's the Marz. Couldn't resist buying one of these late last year when they we getting blown out at $290. I still long for a Revelation, but was pleased with it on the first ride.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Very nice! What does it weigh?


26.6lbs with pedals

Morgan


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> 26.6lbs with pedals
> 
> Morgan


Not bad for a guy that had a job at the beginning of the year, that while technically was claimed as a job, didn't pay. Did all those new parts just grow on a tree, like money? :skep:


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> Not bad for a guy that had a job at the beginning of the year, that while technically was claimed as a job, didn't pay. Did all those new parts just grow on a tree, like money? :skep:


I'm working now, and supporting the bike economy!

Morgan


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

morganfletcher said:


> 26.6lbs with pedals
> 
> Morgan


Nice. My fork and pedals are heavy, but this bike isn't so much about the weight. (But I do like light bikes!)


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Will do. I can tell you after a lite ride yesterday in the wet that the rear slides out on wet Austin rocks. Most others do to, and don't know the frame well enough to know if it has some to do with short wheelbase/chain stays and/or my riding style. They mounted and aired up on Charger wheels really easily and have not lost any pressure sitting idle for a week.


Need to add that my I had very little time to grab my stuff and get on the trail for this ride, so didn't adjust tire pressure :eekster: . Was running 27lbs, so perhaps with less pressure they might have hooked up better on the wet slimy rocks.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> I'm working now, and supporting the bike economy!
> 
> Morgan


Nice Spin! Are you a politician?


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

In the name of science I rode my Yelli with my 650B wheels this morning. Check out posts 18 & 35 for my impressions.

https://forums.mtbr.com/650b-69er-new-wheel-trends/650b-am-hardtail-766099.html


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

jeffw...just looking at your set-up, what degree is your stem, and what is your seatpost length? Also, I see you have a Marzocchi Bomber on the front. Which one do you have?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

kevinboyer said:


> jeffw...just looking at your set-up, what degree is your stem, and what is your seatpost length? Also, I see you have a Marzocchi Bomber on the front. Which one do you have?


70mm stem. I think it's 5 degree rise. 400mm seat post. The fork is a 140mm Micro TI


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## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

I've got a large version one gold frame in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Awesome frame, I just want to go back to a steel fat front bike. - Large Canfield Yelli Screamy, Cane Creek Headset, Hope Pro 2/P35 wheelset, Yakima 15mm adapter - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

Just purchased the last XL Semi-polished, which will be combined with a 2012 Fox Float 29 at 120mm, cannot to get this beast put together and get her dirty. Pics incoming as soon as possible....


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

nitrousjunky said:


> I've got a large version one gold frame in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Awesome frame, I just want to go back to a steel fat front bike. - Large Canfield Yelli Screamy, Cane Creek Headset, Hope Pro 2/P35 wheelset, Yakima 15mm adapter - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


AppleSSeed has an XL for sale in the classifieds also, the rare, hard to get purple anodize, too.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

anyone got a medium for sale?


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Have you contacted Canfield Bros to see if they have what you need in stock? Or look at their online website? :thumbsup:


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

Ordered my frame Wednesday, delivered on Friday, finished Sunday morning. Phone pic before I get her dirty and dialed-in.

XL Semi-polished w/ Fox Float 120mm

- Still needs some fine-tuning, the seat is still a bit high and havent adjusted the fork yet.

Phone pics:


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Looks good. Going to run it without any sort of chain guide?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

riiz said:


> Ordered my frame Wednesday, delivered on Friday, finished Sunday morning. Phone pic before I get her dirty and dialed-in.
> 
> XL Semi-polished w/ Fox Float 120mm
> 
> ...


Nice! I like the look.

Rode mine for 3.5 hours yesterday, loving it.

Morgan


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I put up some pictures from my build.


Cane Creek headset cups installed by fnagrom, on Flickr

I also put up some pictures from a 3.5 hour ride I did on it yesterday, with some buddies.


2012-02-11_13-08-49_763 by fnagrom, on Flickr

Probably going to ride it again today with my son and his buddy. Good times.

Morgan


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

JoshM said:


> Looks good. Going to run it without any sort of chain guide?


Nah, it will eventually have some form of chain retention or a bash guard sandwich, depending on need.


----------



## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

Anyone here riding a Large YS that is 6'-2" with a 33" inseam? How much seat post is exposed and is your seat still somewhat level with the handlebars? I am thinking I will have about 7.5" - 8" of exposed seat post with my inseam depending on crank length 170-175. 

I am thinking it would be better to buy a large and run a 100mm stem instead of an extra large with a 70mm stem. I am riding a Large Pivot 429 right now with a 90mm stem and 24.75 ETT. With the short chain-stay it might better to run a longer stem to keep more weight over the front end for better all around riding. Now if I lived in an area that had a lot of steep descents I could see going with a longer ETT and a shorter stem like the Kona Honzo.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Blk02 said:


> Anyone here riding a Large YS that is 6'-2" with a 33" inseam? How much seat post is exposed and is your seat still somewhat level with the handlebars? I am thinking I will have about 7.5" - 8" of exposed seat post with my inseam depending on crank length 170-175.
> 
> I am thinking it would be better to buy a large and run a 100mm stem instead of an extra large with a 70mm stem. I am riding a Large Pivot 429 right now with a 90mm stem and 24.75 ETT. With the short chain-stay it might better to run a longer stem to keep more weight over the front end for better all around riding. Now if I lived in an area that had a lot of steep descents I could see going with a longer ETT and a shorter stem like the Kona Honzo.


I'm 6'3", but also have a 33" inseam. Here's a photo of my large YS. The seat is slightly (maybe 3/4 inch?) down, which puts it more or less level with my bars. My post is a Thomson Elite, 410mm long. At full XC climbing height, I'm just about at max extension / min insertion. The fork is a Marz 44 at the full 140mm travel.









IMO, this is a bike that begs to be ridden in a more upright position. I first built it with a 70mm stem, and swapped it for a 50mm within a week. But, in answer to your question, there's plenty of standover, and I could have easily fit myself on a XL if I wanted to. But I'm not planning on riding my hardtail for rides longer than an afternoon.


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

Blk02 said:


> Anyone here riding a Large YS that is 6'-2" with a 33" inseam? How much seat post is exposed and is your seat still somewhat level with the handlebars? I am thinking I will have about 7.5" - 8" of exposed seat post with my inseam depending on crank length 170-175.
> 
> I am thinking it would be better to buy a large and run a 100mm stem instead of an extra large with a 70mm stem. I am riding a Large Pivot 429 right now with a 90mm stem and 24.75 ETT. With the short chain-stay it might better to run a longer stem to keep more weight over the front end for better all around riding. Now if I lived in an area that had a lot of steep descents I could see going with a longer ETT and a shorter stem like the Kona Honzo.


6' 4" with a 35" inseam and slightly short arms. I ride a Large Yelli and have pretty much all of the allowed seat post of a 400mm USE showing, but usually drop it slightly on single track. I run a 70mm stem, as evasive says this bike is best ridden in a more upright position.

The bars are slightly lower than the seat, which is where I like them. If I wanted them higher I could easily run a bar with more rise.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

evasive said:


> I'm 6'3", but also have a 33" inseam. Here's a photo of my large YS. The seat is slightly (maybe 3/4 inch?) down, which puts it more or less level with my bars. My post is a Thomson Elite, 410mm long. At full XC climbing height, I'm just about at max extension / min insertion. The fork is a Marz 44 at the full 140mm travel.
> 
> View attachment 673659
> 
> ...


Nice looking bike evasive. I'm going to be building up a Large purple YS as soon as the new frames come out. I'm 6'2" with a 33' inseam and was going with a 70mm stem, but now I'm thinking maybe a 50mm after your above comments. Opinion??

What stem are you using, and what pedals are those?

How's the weather there in Helena?? I just moved from Bozeman 4 months ago.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

kevinboyer said:


> Nice looking bike evasive. I'm going to be building up a Large purple YS as soon as the new frames come out. I'm 6'2" with a 33' inseam and was going with a 70mm stem, but now I'm thinking maybe a 50mm after your above comments. Opinion??
> 
> What stem are you using, and what pedals are those?
> 
> How's the weather there in Helena?? I just moved from Bozeman 4 months ago.


Thanks. It probably comes down to how you want to ride it. The 50mm is definitely more nimble and playful, and feels better bump-hopping off stumps, rocks, etc. I wasn't 100% truthful- when first built, I used a 50mm stem I had lying around, as I was still waiting on a gold 70mm Chromag from Drop N Zone. I was replacing a L EMD9 that had a 110mm stem and then a 90mm stem, and the 70mm seemed to be in keeping with that evolution. The 70mm was OK, but I quickly decided that I preferred the 50mm. A friend was interested in buying it from me, so it was easy to change back. I personally wouldn't go any longer than 70mm - once you move into stems longer than that I wonder if this is really the right frame for you.

One thing I have found with this bike is that I have to be a bit more careful about weighting the front wheel while carving corners. With the 140mm fork, it's pretty slack. The geometry chart doesn't give numbers for a fork at 140mm, but since they claim 68.1* for a Fox F29 at 120mm (a2c of 521mm), the 44 with an a2c of 547mm probably gets close to 67*. It's not a big deal- it just means that I have to be more centered in the cockpit. My previous bike was an overbuilt WFO9, and that bike was so heavy (and steep) that I could really be lazy and hang off the back. I should point out that it gets around really tight switchbacks just fine. The idea that slack bikes can't is a myth.

Stem and pedals are both twenty6. Homegrown.

It was puking all morning, but it's 30 and sunny now. It's been a weird, warm, dry winter, but I figure it'll really get going in another couple of weeks, just as I'm really wanting to get out and ride more. Bridger has been hurting big-time so far, but Big Sky has been about as good as anywhere.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

evasive said:


> Thanks. It probably comes down to how you want to ride it. The 50mm is definitely more nimble and playful, and feels better bump-hopping off stumps, rocks, etc. I wasn't 100% truthful- when first built, I used a 50mm stem I had lying around, as I was still waiting on a gold 70mm Chromag from Drop N Zone. I was replacing a L EMD9 that had a 110mm stem and then a 90mm stem, and the 70mm seemed to be in keeping with that evolution. The 70mm was OK, but I quickly decided that I preferred the 50mm. A friend was interested in buying it from me, so it was easy to change back. I personally wouldn't go any longer than 70mm - once you move into stems longer than that I wonder if this is really the right frame for you.
> 
> One thing I have found with this bike is that I have to be a bit more careful about weighting the front wheel while carving corners. With the 140mm fork, it's pretty slack. The geometry chart doesn't give numbers for a fork at 140mm, but since they claim 68.1* for a Fox F29 at 120mm (a2c of 521mm), the 44 with an a2c of 547mm probably gets close to 67*. It's not a big deal- it just means that I have to be more centered in the cockpit. My previous bike was an overbuilt WFO9, and that bike was so heavy (and steep) that I could really be lazy and hang off the back. I should point out that it gets around really tight switchbacks just fine. The idea that slack bikes can't is a myth.
> 
> ...


Thanks again. I'll take a look at the twenty6 stuff.

I've been keeping an eye on the weather all winter and it sure has been warm. We've been colder here in GA some days than in Bozeman. Go figure. I have to admit it though, I don't miss it. I'll probably be back this summer for some backpacking trips and flyfishing. That's the time of year I'm really going to miss.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Well, if it's only summer in Bozeman that you'll miss, you'll probably be OK. It's short...


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

I went through all 60+ pages of this thread before I ordered mine (plus other reviews). I got the green and wanted to post some pictures because there are not a lot on this thread but since I've never posted before it will not let me add pictures or links.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

That rule was a response to spammers who were becoming kind of annoying. It doesn't take too many posts to get full rights- hit the "newbie check-in thread" in the General forum. You're right- there haven't been many photos of green frames. I'd like to see it.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

HA, yeah I'm not really a newbie since I've been regestered since 2010 and I only regested so I could see photos of other peoples bikes. I'd been lurking for many more years then that, I'm just not much of a fourm posting person. I guess I could go and post a few responses real quick... I'll be back.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

OK, lets see if that worked.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Yes, indeed. Sharp.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

^^
That green is really nice. I can't wait for the new frames to get here in March. I'm going with the anodized purple.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

kevinboyer said:


> ^^
> That green is really nice. I can't wait for the new frames to get here in March. I'm going with the anodized purple.


You'll dig it. :thumbsup:


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Wow! 
That purple and white setup is HOT!


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

Both the L and XL have the same head tube height so the saddle height relative to the head tube should be the same whether you go with the L or XL correct? The only difference would be the seat tube height covering another 2" of seat post and the top tube growing by another 3/4" of an inch on the XL correct?.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

cSquared said:


> Wow!
> That purple and white setup is HOT!


Thanks! I should probably have posted an action shot, too...


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

evasive said:


> Thanks! I should probably have posted an action shot, too...
> 
> View attachment 674443


Great shot, you blend in nicely with the foliage:thumbsup:


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

There are 2 theads running at the moment about concern for slacker head angles, poor dears don't know what they are missing


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

wobbem said:


> There are 2 theads running at the moment about concern for slacker head angles, poor dears don't know what they are missing


I know- I was just reading them and enjoying a quiet chuckle.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Took it out for the first ride last night. Rode a local 12 mile loop and LOVE THIS BIKE. I came off a pure XC 26" frame and this is my first 29er. First ride and I had more confidence in this frame then I've ever had on a bike. Maybe it was just new bike Stoke but I don't care, I'm hooked.


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

They all have the same head tube, but it looks like you're right, just more seat-tube and a longer top-tube.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

xgoodxlifex said:


> Took it out for the first ride last night. Rode a local 12 mile loop and LOVE THIS BIKE. I came off a pure XC 26" frame and this is my first 29er. First ride and I had more confidence in this frame then I've ever had on a bike. Maybe it was just new bike Stoke but I don't care, I'm hooked.


[75 degree hta retro grouch/] Liar ! You can't use it for xc !! too slack !!! What about switchbacks ?!?! [/grouch]

:thumbsup:


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> Done, but of course it rained last night. Rode a bit on some trails, but it's too messy to really get a good ride in. Initially I really like the short wheelbase, easy to lift the front end, bike feels like it will turn well. First pass at setting up the Marz is good, room for improvement I'm sure. Love the 1x10. MRP is up to high due to the bash ring, but there's good tension on the chain from the short cage RD, so I believe that the MRP will only really need to keep the chain from going left or right. 28.68lbs. Can't wait for the trails to dry to for a proper break in! :thumbsup:


I really like the Raw/Semi polished...it's between that or black. Cool ride man!


----------



## p nut (Apr 19, 2007)

mo0se said:


> I really like the Raw/Semi polished...it's between that or black. Cool ride man!


Black is so 2008. That raw finish is money.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

The semi polished doesn't photograph that well, it looks much better in person. But the green is mean either way.


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## Winky (Jan 12, 2004)

*removing decals??*

I want to remove the decals on my black anodized Yelli for a stealth look but don't want to jack up the finish. I know that there are a few people that have removed their decals.

Does anyone want to fill us in on how they removed the decals on an anodized Yelli?

Thanks and happy trails,
Winky


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Winky said:


> I want to remove the decals on my black anodized Yelli for a stealth look but don't want to jack up the finish. I know that there are a few people that have removed their decals.
> 
> Does anyone want to fill us in on how they removed the decals on an anodized Yelli?
> 
> ...


Nail polish remover containing acetone.


----------



## Winky (Jan 12, 2004)

Thanks for the input JoshM. I'll have to go get some acetone base nail polish remover (the wife only has acetone free).

I'll post up some before and after pics when I get around to removing the decals. Don't hold your breath on these pics...it could be a while before I get them done.

Happy Trails,
Winky


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

JoshM said:


> Nail polish remover containing acetone.


JoshM, will this method also work on taking off decals on rims?


----------



## bennyblanco2121 (Feb 2, 2012)

Anyone has a used medium yelli frame for sale?


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

I could be talked into parting with mine... I love this bike but I'm thinking about a different color Yelli or possibly finally getting something custom. post #1551.
*note* decals are removed, head tube badge is gone... though I have one on its way in the mail from Canfield... PM me to discuss


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

rodel said:


> I could be talked into parting with mine... I love this bike but I'm thinking about a different color Yelli or possibly finally getting something custom. post #1551.
> *note* decals are removed, head tube badge is gone... though I have one on its way in the mail from Canfield... PM me to discuss


I'm also after a medium frame - have been posting in the 'Wanted'. Have sent you a pm too.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

Having an issue with my cranks and wanted to see if anyone has ran into the same problem.
I'm using the 9 speed triple XT cranks on my Yelli. 
Ever since new, I've noticed that some times when I shift from the small ring to the middle ring, sometimes it would seem to get caught on something and I would need to back pedal a little and then pedal forward again and everything would be good. This only happens every once in a while so I didn't think much of it.
Yesterday while one a ride, it happened again. Except this time it got really stuck. When I stopped to look at what happened, I found that somehow a few links got sucked in the space between the small and middle ring and the chainstay. Yanking on the chain didn't help. I finally had to remove the crank to get the chain un-stuck.(Luckily they were XT cranks so pretty easy to remove otherwise I would have been screwed)
Has this ever happened to anyone else? Is it possible to move the crank out a bit? I think if there was like 1 mm more clearance between the chainstay and the middle ring then this would not have happened.

Edit: Didn't realize how much damage was done. Here are some pics. First 2 pics shows a big chunk taken out of the chainstay. The 3rd pic my finger is pointed at where the chain got sucked in.


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

that is some horrible lighting. can only sort of see.

its borked. get a new one


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

pwu_1 said:


> Having an issue with my cranks and wanted to see if anyone has ran into the same problem.
> I'm using the 9 speed triple XT cranks on my Yelli.
> Ever since new, I've noticed that some times when I shift from the small ring to the middle ring, sometimes it would seem to get caught on something and I would need to back pedal a little and then pedal forward again and everything would be good. This only happens every once in a while so I didn't think much of it.
> Yesterday while one a ride, it happened again. Except this time it got really stuck. When I stopped to look at what happened, I found that somehow a few links got sucked in the space between the small and middle ring and the chainstay. Yanking on the chain didn't help. I finally had to remove the crank to get the chain un-stuck.(Luckily they were XT cranks so pretty easy to remove otherwise I would have been screwed)
> ...


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Did you cut the bottom off of your derailleur or am I seeing things?


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Chainsuck is usually due to the chain and the rings not getting along. That chain looks dry and miserable. It's trying to kill itself.


----------



## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

It's best to have less than 4mm gap so there's not enough room for the chain to suck. Shimano says to have more or less than the chain thickness so it either won't go in or it has room to suck and come back out. I think less is more in this case. There are different thickness BB spacers to fine tune with.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

jeffw-13 said:


> Did you cut the bottom off of your derailleur or am I seeing things?


Its just the angle of the camera. The bottom part of the derailleur is hidden by the chainstay in the pic.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

92gli said:


> Chainsuck is usually due to the chain and the rings not getting along. That chain looks dry and miserable. It's trying to kill itself.


Good point about the chain. Although I think it has done this since new, the chain just never got sucked up so bad until Saturday.
I will clean and lube the chain before the next ride.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

92gli said:


> The cane creek catalogs have the blueprints. The "shoulder" of the 40 external bottom is 15mm high and the 110 is slightly taller - 15.75. IMO, just to be safe, and because I know it works, get the 40. Its a damn nice headset.


/\ This.


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## bennyblanco2121 (Feb 2, 2012)

Can I use a 350mm in length seat post on the yelli? :blush:


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

bennyblanco2121 said:


> Can I use a 350mm in length seat post on the yelli? :blush:


How long are your legs? 

I have a 410 on mine, and I need it. But I'm on the cusp between L and XL and chose the L.


----------



## bennyblanco2121 (Feb 2, 2012)

evasive said:


> How long are your legs?
> 
> I have a 410 on mine, and I need it. But I'm on the cusp between L and XL and chose the L.


Im 5'9'' with short legs . I don't know my inseam measurement.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Anyone remove their decals yet with some acetone? I want to see more pics.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

I've been all over this thread from the beginning, so forgive me if I missed it: Has anyone put a fat front on a Yelli?


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Rennen 32.2t Chainring, 19t cog & a half link = No need for a tensioner! 32-21 is just too easy a gear for my local trails but I refuse to use a tensioner so I decided to the Rennen chainring and it works well.


----------



## rawdoggie (Jan 16, 2012)

Just heard back from Canfield that the 2012 batch of YS frames should be in by april 1st.

The colors will be all anodized in:

Black
Blue
Green
Orange
Purple


----------



## FlintPaper (Dec 17, 2006)

bluestatevirgin said:


> I've been all over this thread from the beginning, so forgive me if I missed it: Has anyone put a fat front on a Yelli?


I'd be interested in knowing this too. Maybe I'll be the first.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

FlintPaper said:


> I'd be interested in knowing this too. Maybe I'll be the first.


If so, post pics! And ride report!


----------



## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Just spoke with Chris last night.........2012 Yelli's are coming out of ANO !

I can NOT wait to see the rainbow!


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

*fat front - yes*



bluestatevirgin said:


> I've been all over this thread from the beginning, so forgive me if I missed it: Has anyone put a fat front on a Yelli?


Yes. Did it this past fall while my 29er maverick wheel was down for a bit. Kept on for several rides for the novelty/ fun of it. Running a Larry on a 50mm rim. Would love to get a nate. Great for chunky fall line descending and fast jeep road descents. Fat tire + 117mm of travel and it felt it was too much for the hardtail with a 2.4 ardent. Front end obviously felt a little heavier but easily adapted to for technical climbing. Again fun but wouldn't do it all the time.
This geometry IMO would be great for a full on fat bike. Upright riding position, plenty of clearance w/ top tube design.

Anybody happen to know what trail figure the Canfield Bros designed the yelli with? 80+?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

xgoodxlifex said:


> Rennen 32.2t Chainring, 19t cog & a half link = No need for a tensioner! 32-21 is just too easy a gear for my local trails but I refuse to use a tensioner so I decided to the Rennen chainring and it works well.


Interesting concept with those rings. Do they run as smoothly as regular ones ?


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

92gli said:


> Interesting concept with those rings. Do they run as smoothly as regular ones ?


Yeah they run exactly the same, it just feels a tad harder then the 32t I had. With the Yelli and the 32.2 you can see the clearance is tight and when I stand up climb a few teeth rub the chainstay. I have the XT crank with 1 spacer on the drive side. If needed I could move the chainring to the outter ring spot but I just lightly filed the back side of the teeth where it would hit. Problem solved.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

dirtydoug said:


> Yes. Did it this past fall while my 29er maverick wheel was down for a bit. Kept on for several rides for the novelty/ fun of it. Running a Larry on a 50mm rim. Would love to get a nate. Great for chunky fall line descending and fast jeep road descents. Fat tire + 117mm of travel and it felt it was too much for the hardtail with a 2.4 ardent. Front end obviously felt a little heavier but easily adapted to for technical climbing. Again fun but wouldn't do it all the time.
> This geometry IMO would be great for a full on fat bike. Upright riding position, plenty of clearance w/ top tube design.
> 
> Anybody happen to know what trail figure the Canfield Bros designed the yelli with? 80+?
> View attachment 679464


That's awesome.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

xgoodxlifex said:


> Yeah they run exactly the same, it just feels a tad harder then the 32t I had. With the Yelli and the 32.2 you can see the clearance is tight and when I stand up climb a few teeth rub the chainstay. I have the XT crank with 1 spacer on the drive side. If needed I could move the chainring to the outter ring spot but I just lightly filed the back side of the teeth where it would hit. Problem solved.


Theres also .5mm and 1mm spacers you can get.


----------



## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

dirtydoug said:


> View attachment 679464


Looks like a nice frame Doug, just like the one that arrived on my doorstep this week... 
See you on a Tuesday night, sometime soon


----------



## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

Slurry said:


> (my understanding is you cant run a granny or middle ringer over 22 or 32, respectively, on the Yelli, *making any stock 2x10 setups impossible).*


I've flipped thru this thread, and I'm still not sure.... has anyone been successful at a 2 x 10 setup (26/39t or 28/42t)? Just add spacers?


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Hi all Yelli users.

I'm a big fan of canfield, i own a 1st gen One and also a Jedi for DH

i'm interrested im getting a Yelli screamy to try a 29er and have a lighter bike setup while keeping a familiar geometry...

my idea is to build it sowly as i find good deals on parts.

now, anyone can tell me what is the minimum fork steertube lenght needed to fit a yelli?

i've seen a few interresting used fork, but steertubes seem short.

thanks


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*same 110 Head tube on S/M/L/ XL*



tartosuc said:


> Hi all Yelli users.
> 
> I'm a big fan of canfield, i own a 1st gen One and also a Jedi for DH
> 
> ...


 It would depend on the stem/headset you use. Spank has a low profile stem that is only 26mm high so I guess around 160 would be the around the minimum.


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## dirtydoug (Nov 19, 2006)

WKD-RDR said:


> Looks like a nice frame Doug, just like the one that arrived on my doorstep this week...
> See you on a Tuesday night, sometime soon


Yeah you are going to like this bike, I am pretty sure. Super versatile and well suited for our type of riding. Ive got a 120mm REBA RLT Ti on it now, better fork overall but I do miss the maverick travel adjust. 
Here's my yelli in bikepacking mode.This is from an overnight trip of ring the peak (pike's peak) last summer.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

So much well deserved Yelli stoke. As I contemplate cannibalizing the YS for parts to build my new FS 29er, I feel like the dude the with the beard.


----------



## cruiserman (Jun 9, 2008)

rawdoggie said:


> Just heard back from Canfield that the 2012 batch of YS frames should be in by april 1st.
> 
> The colors will be all anodized in:
> 
> ...


I got an email from Sean indicated they have medium frames in orange and green available. These are powdercoated. I'm inclined to wait if the new ones are anodized for weight and durability. Any idea if the price will be the same? Anyone prefer powdercoated over anodized?


----------



## smirniotisice (Nov 25, 2009)

Still expecting March as the delivery month? I was hoping to build one up for the PMBAR this year.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

cruiserman said:


> I got an email from Sean indicated they have medium frames in orange and green available. These are powdercoated. I'm inclined to wait if the new ones are anodized for weight and durability. Any idea if the price will be the same? Anyone prefer powdercoated over anodized?


Price is still $650.00 plus $50.00 shipping. I just put my pre-order in today for the purple anodized. I saw a picture of the purple anodized and it is amazing. I prefer it much more than the powder coated.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> Price is still $650.00 plus $50.00 shipping. I just put my pre-order in today for the purple anodized. I saw a picture of the purple anodized and it is amazing. I prefer it much more than the powder coated.


Have you seen the powder coated frame in person? I'm guessing not. I have a green powdercoat and the paint is slick and durable. I would have went for purple ANO if they had it in stock when I ordered my frame, but the PC green is hot.

Cruiserman...if you want the frame now, then go for it. You're not going to notice the extra 1/4 lb when the bike is under you. If you can hold out for the ANO, then that may be the best route - definitely going to be the lighter option, finish durability is a non-issue.

Something else to consider is the bottle cage bosses...on the new batch, they are not putting mounts on the seattube. I'm happy with the seattube bosses because I like to run bottles on local rides and don't like running a bottle on the underside of the downtube. That said, the space on the medium frame is really tight, so you'll either have to use small bottles or use side-loader cages(or both).


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

ncfisherman said:


> Have you seen the powder coated frame in person? I'm guessing not. I have a green powdercoat and the paint is slick and durable. I would have went for purple ANO if they had it in stock when I ordered my frame, but the PC green is hot.
> 
> I haven't seen the green in person, but I've liked what I've seen in the pictures posted here, including yours. I was torn between the green and purple, but once I saw the picture of the anodized purple for the version 2 YS that sold me.


----------



## turbonium (Nov 15, 2007)

*Nimble Nine*

I rode a nimble nine last summer.
I was on a 26 inch bike my whole life before this bike.
This bike changed my riding. My poor 26 inch full suspension got no love.
All I can say is wow. I can't believe how much traction these 29er bikes have.
The hard tail feels like it has suspension because of the bigger tires. Crazy. 
The geometry on the nimble nine is spot on. It climbs well and decends well.
Great job Lance and Chris!


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

ncfisherman said:


> Something else to consider is the bottle cage bosses...on the new batch, they are not putting mounts on the seattube.


Are you sure about that? Before the current N9 batch was due, there was talk about it having 3 sets of bosses like the Yelli, but the new batch still has the 1 set as before. So I really wouldn't hold my breath for any changes.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

eurospek said:


> Are you sure about that? Before the current N9 batch was due, there was talk about it having 3 sets of bosses like the Yelli, but the new batch still has the 1 set as before. So I really wouldn't hold my breath for any changes.


No worries Eurospek- 
I am at the factory and watched the whole production. There are NO bosses on the seattubes. We should be seeing them come out of Anodize this week.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Nice! :thumbsup:

Can't wait to see the new blue Yelli.


----------



## cruiserman (Jun 9, 2008)

eurospek said:


> Are you sure about that? Before the current N9 batch was due, there was talk about it having 3 sets of bosses like the Yelli, but the new batch still has the 1 set as before. So I really wouldn't hold my breath for any changes.


I think he's referring to the new YS.


----------



## spyder120 (Jul 16, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Nice! :thumbsup:
> 
> Can't wait to see the new blue Yelli.


Does anyone know yet if it is going to match the blue crampon pedal that is pictured on their website? The anticipation is getting the best of me...


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

Quick question for you all, I have a set of Stylo and SLX cranks. What would be the best set for a new orange screamy?


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Mr. Doom said:


> Quick question for you all, I have a set of Stylo and SLX cranks. What would be the best set for a new orange screamy?


I'd say SLX. Can't beat 'em!


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Mr. Doom said:


> Quick question for you all, I have a set of Stylo and SLX cranks. What would be the best set for a new orange screamy?


I run Stylo's on mine with no issues.


----------



## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

I run a 2 ring SLX with a bash and it works great!


----------



## DeeEffDub (Mar 13, 2012)

Any chance of a sneak peak?


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

aflax said:


> I run a 2 ring SLX with a bash and it works great!


You running the 22/36?


----------



## turbonium (Nov 15, 2007)

*its perdy*

Super sweet fork!!!!


----------



## aflax (Oct 14, 2009)

bluestatevirgin said:


> You running the 22/36?


No, 24/32, just ordered the 3-ring and put a bash on. Even with only a 32, that middle ring is pretty close.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

aflax said:


> No, 24/32, just ordered the 3-ring and put a bash on. Even with only a 32, that middle ring is pretty close.


This is the exact set-up I will be running to start with. Eventually I'll switch over to 1 x 10.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

aflax said:


> No, 24/32, just ordered the 3-ring and put a bash on. Even with only a 32, that middle ring is pretty close.


The 32-tooth ring on my single-speed, and soon to be 1x10 setup:


32-tooth clearance on the Yelli Screamy by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Well i did it!

I just pre-ordered a yelli screamy large size anodized blue!


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Welcome aboard! Looking forward to seeing the new anodized colors.


----------



## cab19 (Mar 19, 2012)

Anybody running the Marz 44 micro ti on their yelli? Piecing together a build list and the reviews of this fork seem pretty good for XC/AM


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

cab19 said:


> Anybody running the Marz 44 micro ti on their yelli? Piecing together a build list and the reviews of this fork seem pretty good for XC/AM


I think most of the bikes in this thread are running them. They were on mega closeout sale a short time back.

I have one on mine and it's like it was designed for the bike. Love it. No complaints, no regrets.


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

tartosuc said:


> Well i did it!
> 
> I just pre-ordered a yelli screamy large size anodized blue!


Tarto's going 29er!


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

MMcG said:


> Tarto's going 29er!


Lol. I was expecting you commenting that way!

Dont panic yet..its a test.. My 26" AM bike will still be usefull for my needs.

I especially chose the yelli beacause of its geometry , it will make a nice bike for the smooter trails i ride, plus it will also serve as my winter bike, bikepacking bike, trailbuilding bike etc.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

"I especially chose the yelli beacause of its geometry , it will make a nice bike for the smooter trails i ride"

You should have bought a Trek then, you will be doing a great deservice to this frame.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

wobbem said:


> "I especially chose the yelli beacause of its geometry , it will make a nice bike for the smooter trails i ride"
> 
> You should have bought a Trek then, you will be doing a great deservice to this frame.


No

I ride dh and am trails mostly, I likevthe geo of the am bikes and really dislike the standard 29 e geometry.... This bike will keep the ride caracteristics that i like but will be built lighter. It will fun to ride on the smoother trails that i ride but will not hold me back if i get into rougher tech stuff .

I want a fun bike werever i go, not a monster truck.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

tartosuc said:


> No
> 
> I ride dh and am trails mostly, I likevthe geo of the am bikes and really dislike the standard 29 e geometry.... This bike will keep the ride caracteristics that i like but will be built lighter. It will fun to ride on the smoother trails that i ride but will not hold me back if i get into rougher tech stuff .
> 
> I want a fun bike werever i go, not a monster truck.


Wow, sounds good. Photos please, make me jeolous or at least feel inadequate


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

wobbem said:


> Wow, sounds good. Photos please, make me jeolous or at least feel inadequate


Lol. I've been thinkeing about that one for 2 years now. I have a good idea of what i want.
Considering the fact that my AM bike is 33 lbs(canfield one) it willbe easy to make that one considerably lighter.

It will take a while before i get pics of the complete build i only ordered the frame. I only have a few leftover parts so far.:
Truvativ crankset
70 mm pro stem with sunline 737 bar.
Well se what i can find for the rest of the parts( used/sales).thats a "as i go" project.

! :thumbsup:


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Will anyone who is running a spiderless chainring on a Yelli please chime in? Please include brand of cranks and chainring. I know most the options out there, but I'm interested in hearing from people who actually have tried, or are currently using, the set-up on a Yelli.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

bluestatevirgin said:


> Will anyone who is running a spiderless chainring on a Yelli please chime in? Please include brand of cranks and chainring. I know most the options out there, but I'm interested in hearing from people who actually have tried, or are currently using, the set-up on a Yelli.


Oh, and who is running square-tapered bottom brackets on a Yelli? If so, how long? I've been using 119mm because that's what I had. Anybody narrower?


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've had my Yelli out on 2-3 trail rides now that I have dry enough trails to ride on. Before this I had only had it on dirt roads. 
Initial impressions: Comfortable riding position. Nothing hurts after a ride. Descends very well, and handles tight singletrack well.
The bike loves to be climbed while standing, the short rear end of the bike tucks in under giving the feeling of good traction. It's going to take some getting used to with climbing for me, as I do find the front end a little light feeling on some really steep sections. I'm finding hitting the climbs as fast as possible and getting good speed helps. No sitting and spinning here. You have to attack the trail with this bike.

On a technical note, I noticed after my first ride that my 32T chainring had come into contact with the chainstay at some point during the ride. The clearance is very, very close. About 1.5mm. I think it needs to come out at least 1-2mm more for me to be comfortable.
I'm running SLX triple cranks with a 32T blackspire SS ring mounted in the middle position. Standard shimano BB. I'm running an MRP BB-mounted chainguide on there as well. Right now mounted between the BB cup and the frame. No spacers Clearance is perfect with chainring perfectly centered in the guide. I have a 2.5mm spacer that came with my BB, a 1mm spacer I got today at the LBS. I'm thinking a spacer in the mix there somewhere will help a bit, but I am confused as where to put it? Between guide and cup? Or Guide and frame?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

JoshM said:


> You have to attack the trail with this bike.


Yes. I rode mine yesterday, in mud and rain, still set up as a single speed. It has a 140mm fork, that I can suck down to 110mm but rarely do. I can diesel up some climbs, but yeah, attack is the word. The 31" wide bars really help with that.

Re the spacers, I can't help, but to say "Try it." One ride won't ruin anything. I do know that a stinger mounted bashguard didn't make one bit of difference to the GXP bottom bracket on my Turner, and when I switched to Chris King, its (somewhat confusing) spacer scheme accounted for the thin stinger, IIRC.

I am running the E.thirteen bb on my Yelli Screamy, and it also has a somewhat confusing spacer solution, that I'd think would account for the spacer you are looking to use.

Re Shimano BBs:

http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/c...ile.html/Hollowtech II Crank Installation.pdf

Morgan


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I pulled the cranks off today and removed the drive side BB cup. The back plate of the MRP guide has small grooves that will prevent the bash guard from turning when back against the BB shell. So I opted to put a 1mm spacer between the BB cup and the MRP backplate. This pushed my 32T chainring about 1mm further from the chainstays, and kept my chain from rubbing the upper guide of the guide. There still is not much clearance between the stays and ring, but I can't see it coming into contact unless it's a severe side to side flex.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

So all my parts are in, but I find myself with a little problem. I'm using a Shimano XT M770 10 speed triple crank set and will be taking the large ring off and replacing it with a bash guard and running 2 x 10. Here's the problem. The 32t [ middle chainring ] has a carbon composite "ring" around it which makes it impossible to mount it to the bash guard. I called Shimano to get their take on it, and the tech said it probably won't work because of the carbon ring. So I now find myself trying to figure out what 32t chainring to replace it with. Does it need to be ramped and pinned? Does it need to be 10 speed? I've looked around online, but not sure exactly what I need to make this work.

On a side note, I talked to Sean today at Canfields, and he told me the new batch of YS are going to be delayed until probably the end of APRIL. There was a death in the family of the owners of the factory where the bikes are manufactured.


----------



## AaronK (Dec 21, 2006)

I just bought the last xl in inventory. Now I wait for ups and for my wife to see the credit card bill.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

kevinboyer said:


> So all my parts are in, but I find myself with a little problem. I'm using a Shimano XT M770 10 speed triple crank set and will be taking the large ring off and replacing it with a bash guard and running 2 x 10. Here's the problem. The 32t [ middle chainring ] has a carbon composite "ring" around it which makes it impossible to mount it to the bash guard. I called Shimano to get their take on it, and the tech said it probably won't work because of the carbon ring. So I now find myself trying to figure out what 32t chainring to replace it with. Does it need to be ramped and pinned? Does it need to be 10 speed? I've looked around online, but not sure exactly what I need to make this work.
> 
> .


How does the middle ring prevent you from mounting the bash ? The 32t is on the inside of the tabs and the bash goes on the outer side where the big ring was. I can't picture how this wouldn't work.

Yes, a replacement needs to be ramped and pinned to shift from the granny properly. No, it doesn't have to be "10 speed". 9 and 10 speed chainring teeth are the same thickness. The steel middle ring shimano uses on the slx and lx cranks would work fine.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

92gli said:


> How does the middle ring prevent you from mounting the bash ? The 32t is on one side of the tabs and the bash goes on the outer side. I can't picture how this is a problem.
> 
> Yes, a replacement needs to be ramped and pinned. No, it doesn't have to be "10 speed". 9 and 10 speed chainring teeth are the same thickness. The steel middle ring shimano uses on the slx and lx cranks would work fine.


This crankset is a Dyna System set and the middle chainring has this carbon composite ring that "meshes" with the original 42t ring. It's nothing like I've sen before. But when I set it up against my Straitline bash guard it doesn't sit flush because the carbon ring is higher in the spots where it "meshed" with the 42t. It's hard to explain without actually seeing it.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

kevinboyer said:


> This crankset is a Dyna System set and the middle chainring has this carbon composite ring that "meshes" with the original 42t ring. It's nothing like I've sen before. But when I set it up against my Straitline bash guard it doesn't sit flush because the carbon ring is higher in the spots where it "meshed" with the 42t. It's hard to explain without actually seeing it.


Dremel the high spots down. It won't hurt anything. If I'm picturing it correctly its just some small spots that interfere right ?

Or, if you pay for postage I can give you a stamped steel slx middle ring (lightly used)


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've got a brand new slx 32T middle ring sitting here too. It yours if you want to pay shipping.


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> This crankset is a Dyna System set and the middle chainring has this carbon composite ring that "meshes" with the original 42t ring. It's nothing like I've sen before. But when I set it up against my Straitline bash guard it doesn't sit flush because the carbon ring is higher in the spots where it "meshed" with the 42t. It's hard to explain without actually seeing it.


Not sure if its the same but I'm using the 9 speed M770 Crankset with a BBG bashguard. It is tight but the bashguard fits without hitting the middle ring.


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> Not sure if its the same but I'm using the 9 speed M770 Crankset with a BBG bashguard. It is tight but the bashguard fits without hitting the middle ring.


Does yours have the carbon composite ring on it?


----------



## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

kevinboyer said:


> Does yours have the carbon composite ring on it?


Yes it does. Here are the pics.
First one shows you can see a sliver of light between the bashguard and the middle ring.
Second pics shows the writing on the back of the ring. For the middle it says:
32-AA Shimano SG X M9 44-32-22

So if you measured the thickness of the tabs where you mount the ring and the thickness of the bump on the middle ring where it sticks out, the tabs where you mount the ring should be equal to or slightly thicker than the bump that sticks out from the middle ring.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

AaronK said:


> I just bought the last xl in inventory. Now I wait for ups and for my wife to see the credit card bill.


Painted green?


----------



## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> Yes it does. I can post a pic later tonight.


I think I've figured out my problem. My Straitline bash guard tabs are 3/16" thick, the spider tabs are 1/8" thick, and the carbon ring is 3/16" thick, so I'm pretty sure that makes my chain ring bolts short which is why I haven't been able to get it put together. Converting those measurements into mm I come out with 15.875 mm.:madman: Aren't most chain ring bolts 8mm standard? This bash guard sure seems to be thicker than most I've seen.

Here's an example of the bash...

Straitline Serrated chainring guard white 32-34t


----------



## AaronK (Dec 21, 2006)

eurospek said:


> Painted green?


Yep. I always get black so I wanted something different. Maybe green will be my lucky color and this bike will help with my skills a bit. I'm also hoping it really will make the ride yelli screamy.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

AaronK said:


> Yep. I always get black so I wanted something different. Maybe green will be my lucky color and this bike will help with my skills a bit. I'm also hoping it really will make the ride yelli screamy.


Nice, congrats!!!


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

I'm just going to leave this here.


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

*She's been around a fair bit......*

....but now she's back....

Randy, AppleSSeed, Eurospek from what i can gather.

Front One needs bleeding hence the mismatched brakes, might have to get some different coloured sliders for the straitline too.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Nice to see that it finally has a home. Hope it works out.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Bunzl said:


> ....but now she's back....
> 
> *Randy, AppleSSeed, Eurospek from what i can gather.*
> 
> Front One needs bleeding hence the mismatched brakes, might have to get some different coloured sliders for the straitline too.


You missed a guy. The order of ownership went like this:

canyonrat > eurospek > randyboy > appleseed > you > future owner :thumbsup:

Build looks great though!


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> You missed a guy. The order of ownership went like this:
> 
> canyonrat > eurospek > randyboy > appleseed > you > future owner :thumbsup:
> 
> Build looks great though!


That bike's name should be Bad Penny.

Morgan


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Bunzl,

Are you running an ISCG adapter with the Silent Guide? I didn't think they came in BB mount.


----------



## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

*Sram new spiderless*

So over on the Sram forum, I found these pictures. Wondering if, since they are a double spiderless with 22/36 or 24/38 chainrings, they could be run on a Yelli. As a 64/104 bcd double, maybe the chainline is moved outward enough to go 22/36, 24/36, or even 26/36. These can be used with most all the new Sram 2x10 cranks: x7, x9, xo, etc.. Opinions?


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Updated pic of mine.
140mm up front feels awsome, no problems climbing even the steepest of stuff. Just stand and mash. I'm running Panaracer Rampages front and back and they hook up great.
If anyone has a 140mm tapered fork let me know.:thumbsup:


----------



## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Funny, I'm about to move from a 70mm stem to a 90mm. I'm 6'3" and feel to cramped. Only problems I've had with my XL is the front end washing out. With the 140mm Marz I really feel like I need to get the front end weighted more. With long arms I can move my body around a lot, and with the short chainstays I've never had difficulty getting the weight back.


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

JoshM said:


> Bunzl,
> 
> Are you running an ISCG adapter with the Silent Guide? I didn't think they came in BB mount.


Sorry for the delay, haven't looked at the thread for a few days.

You're spot on. I had an old BB to ISCG adaptor from a Superstar chainguide lying around and since I already owned the Straitline i thought and try and get it to fit. Works like a dream which keeps me happy as i like the simplicity of the Straitline and saved me some money having to buy a new one.


----------



## rottcrazy (Jan 30, 2004)

I just finished setting up my XL Yelli Screamy 2x10 with Sram X.0 cranks. I replaced the chainrings that came on the cranks with the X.0 22/36 with bashring similar to the XX one you posted. I used the Truvativ GXP Team bottom bracket with one spacer on the driveside. The clearance is pretty tight but it works. I tried putting 2 spacers on the driveside to give a little more clearance but then the cranks wouldn't install properly. I used an 11-32 10sp cassette and it shifts great. 

Another clearance issue that I have is the front derailleur- rear tire. I wanted to run Ardent 2.4s but they interfere with my X.9 front derailleur even though there's plenty of room at the chainstays. I was thinking about cutting off the bottom pull portion of the lever on the FD, but it doesn't look like that would create enough space for the Ardents anyway, so I swapped out the rear tire for a Kenda Slant 6 2.0 and everything fits ok, although I'm concerned that if the tires pick up any mud that it will catch on the FD. 

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Here's a new pic of mine. Did a rad day out on some sweet trails with it, 2nd ride with 1x10 gears, 1st ride with a Reverb dropper seatpost. (Have three now, all but one bike have them.) Running the MRP 1x guide, using the direct-mount version. Gears are 32x11-36, 10spd, X.9 short-cage rear derailleur, X.9 shifter.


I love my bike by fnagrom, on Flickr

Bike was perfect all day. Love it.

Morgan


----------



## dhmental (Jun 24, 2011)

Nice setup ^^. I like the reverb on there.
I just bought a used Yelli screamy frame in the gold anodized. Not that I really care much about the color, but i gotta figure out what will go with it for the build. I'm thinking black or silver for the components. This will be my first 29er and I'm stoked to get on it!


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

dhmental said:


> Nice setup ^^. I like the reverb on there.
> I just bought a used Yelli screamy frame in the gold anodized. Not that I really care much about the color, but i gotta figure out what will go with it for the build. I'm thinking black or silver for the components. This will be my first 29er and I'm stoked to get on it!












Morgan


----------



## dhmental (Jun 24, 2011)

Dang that guy has style! haha.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

rottcrazy said:


> I just finished setting up my XL Yelli Screamy 2x10 with Sram X.0 cranks. I replaced the chainrings that came on the cranks with the X.0 22/36 with bashring similar to the XX one you posted. I used the Truvativ GXP Team bottom bracket with one spacer on the driveside. The clearance is pretty tight but it works. I tried putting 2 spacers on the driveside to give a little more clearance but then the cranks wouldn't install properly.


Interesting, Please post a pic or 2 of this combo if you can.


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

dhmental said:


> Nice setup ^^. I like the reverb on there.
> I just bought a used Yelli screamy frame in the gold anodized. Not that I really care much about the color, but i gotta figure out what will go with it for the build. I'm thinking black or silver for the components. This will be my first 29er and I'm stoked to get on it!


Check out frorider's and martin_uk's gold ano Yellis in this thread. 2 different approaches but both look sick. Those are my 2 favorites in this color. :thumbsup:


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## OneArm (Sep 19, 2008)

Morganfletcher,

Could you provide a photo of how your MRP attaches to the frame. Is it screwed to the frame block or is it on a band that goes around the seat tube? Thanks a bunch.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

OneArm said:


> Morganfletcher,
> 
> Could you provide a photo of how your MRP attaches to the frame. Is it screwed to the frame block or is it on a band that goes around the seat tube? Thanks a bunch.


It attaches to the direct mount derailleur mount.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

OneArm said:


> Morganfletcher,
> 
> Could you provide a photo of how your MRP attaches to the frame. Is it screwed to the frame block or is it on a band that goes around the seat tube? Thanks a bunch.











It's a special version from MRP that bolts to the Direct Mount derailleur mount, which is part of the frame.

Morgan


----------



## OneArm (Sep 19, 2008)

Cool man, thanks. I threw my chain a few times with a similar set up and am looking for a fix for my Yelli. Looks like I found it!


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Has anyone with a 2x crankset tried one of the Truvativ X-Guides yet?


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

morganfletcher said:


> Morgan


I have to ask....
WHY do you have this picture on file?:skep:


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

the mayor said:


> I have to ask....
> WHY do you have this picture on file?:skep:


I remember seeing it in the Turner forum, and as soon as dhmental asked about how to adorn his gold Yelli Screamy, I immediately thought of it.

DHMental, go all white parts.

White gold is white gold.

Morgan


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> That bike's name should be Bad Penny.
> 
> Morgan


That b!tch could have been yours! Few bike frames get such honor. She's been ridden hard by many, long term loved by few.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

RandyBoy said:


> That b!tch could have been yours! Few bike frames get such honor. She's been ridden hard by many, long term loved by few.


I have had to make do with a black frame and purple bars.

Riding mine tonight in the rain and the mud.

Morgan


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## dhmental (Jun 24, 2011)

morganfletcher said:


> I remember seeing it in the Turner forum, and as soon as dhmental asked about how to adorn his gold Yelli Screamy, I immediately thought of it.
> 
> DHMental, go all white parts.
> 
> ...


 Why havent I seen that video before? 
Yeah I'm thinking white or black. Right now its pretty much whatever I can get my hands on cheap, but I plan to keep it awhile and eventually have a sweet looking build.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I haven't been giving the Yelli much love lately since I built a new FS bike, but I'm pleased to report that it's still a fun ride.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Has anyone had any trouble with rear wheels fitting into the dropouts in the Yelli frame?
I'm running a Sun Ringle Charger expert rear wheel and it's a pain in the ass to take on and off. I have to pull the skewer just to get it out, and the drive side end cap seems to get stuck in the dropout.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

JoshM said:


> Has anyone had any trouble with rear wheels fitting into the dropouts in the Yelli frame?
> I'm running a Sun Ringle Charger expert rear wheel and it's a pain in the ass to take on and off. I have to pull the skewer just to get it out, and the drive side end cap seems to get stuck in the dropout.


True, it is a bit of a pain, I stick it in the lowest gears and am using a 10mm QR through axle, wound right out when I stick it back in.


----------



## rottcrazy (Jan 30, 2004)

Here are some pics of my X.0 2x setup

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2


----------



## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

*My setup*

Yelli - Large frame
Revelation RCT3 140mm (set at 120mm) --> me likey
Sram drivetrain 2X10, 26/39t x 11/36t
X9 with X0 crank / cassette
XT brakes --> sweet!
Stans Flow / Hope 20mm customs from Redstone Cyclery (on their 3rd bike)
65mm Sunline stem
MonkeyDH carbon bar 715mm
Thompson stem
27.07lbs (12.28kg)










First impression: 
This thing is really pumpy, whipUPable

On the trail:
Climbs like a 29er (steep tech is easier), wonders a bit (not a big deal for me)
Really easy to pump, jump, whip... I could not tell I had wagon wheels
Then I hit the tech, and got pinched (hardtails!)
Put a new tire on (2.1 Rampage setup tubeless) and tried again
Ripped it on its 2nd ride; inserted tube, and went home. (I have those kind of trails around me, and I lack grace)

I need a moar tire on the back, but with the front der there, room is limited.
After 70 pages of mostly 1 x 10 setups, I suppose I should have followed suit.
So: make room for a bigger tyre, ride less tech trails with this, or learn to ride smoother.
Undecided at this point, but my riding habits will likely not change.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

WKD-RDR

Running 2.4 Mt kings on my double & prior to my triple , no problems with clearance issues. Perhaps a bit more pressure in your rear.


----------



## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

wobbem said:


> WKD-RDR
> 
> Running 2.4 Mt kings on my double & prior to my triple , no problems with clearance issues. Perhaps a bit more pressure in your rear.


I'm currently running an XT front der, gonna switch or saw it down to see what kind of room I can create. What front der are you using?

Running 35 - 40 psi when I sliced the tire, but perhaps it burped a bit beforehand.
I run Conti Mtn King 2.4s on my full sus 26er, they are about the only thing that can handle this particular descent. (High speed + sharp rocks, _lots_ of sharp rocks)


----------



## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Ardent 2.4's on Flows for me and no issues running a typical 3x crank with an XT derailleur. You have to cut off the downpull arm of the cable rocker and you certainly don't have mud clearance in the granny position, but I haven't rubbed yet.


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Someone in So Cali is selling their newer built Silver Yelli. I do not know this person I just saw it listed on STR.org and thought someone on here might be interested.

Canfield Yelli Medium - SocalTrailRiders.org Classifieds


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

xgoodxlifex said:


> Someone in So Cali is selling their newer built Silver Yelli. I do not know this person I just saw it listed on STR.org and thought someone on here might be interested.
> 
> Canfield Yelli Medium - SocalTrailRiders.org Classifieds


That's a killer build :thumbsup: but that bike was posted for sale last year, idk if it ever sold or is this the new owner selling it again.


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## cmeride (Sep 10, 2004)

selling again..uncle sam is taking big coin from me so this unfortunately has to go. ;(


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

cmeride said:


> selling again..uncle sam is taking big coin from me so this unfortunately has to go. ;(


That's too bad.  One of the nicest builds I've seen.


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

I have been having so much fun doing my corning drills on my YS ! I thought I would let everyone know......2012 frames are enjoying their "cruise" and will be state side in 2-3 weeks. I know there are a lot of anxious folks out there! 

Bring on more Yelli's !!!


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

sadly... mine is for sale as well.
Parting it out... MTBR ad is here.










Love the bike, was about to run gears on it, but need the funds for an entirely different project.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Rodel, you passed me a few weeks ago at Whiting. I was on the Green SS Yelli. Sad that you're selling.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

^^^So sad^^^. The bike gives good service only to be retired early. Mine gave up its fork, front wheel, brakes, and cockpit to my new FS build. But I think I will be keeping the frame around. I can't imagine a better suited SS for the rocky bulls#!+ we have in these parts.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*A long two weeks for me.*



buddhak said:


> ^^^So sad^^^. The bike gives good service only to be retired early. Mine gave up its fork, front wheel, brakes, and cockpit to my new FS build. But I think I will be keeping the frame around. I can't imagine a better suited SS for the rocky bulls#!+ we have in these parts.


Funny, I just sold a 6" bike with a fox36 to fund my screamy... The trails here are too smooth for a FS rig.


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## rodel (Aug 25, 2004)

xgoodxlifex said:


> Rodel, you passed me a few weeks ago at Whiting. I was on the Green SS Yelli. Sad that you're selling.


I thought that was you, the green is really nice in person. I think I prefer that than the black!



buddhak said:


> ^^^So sad^^^. The bike gives good service only to be retired early. Mine gave up its fork, front wheel, brakes, and cockpit to my new FS build. But I think I will be keeping the frame around. I can't imagine a better suited SS for the rocky bulls#!+ we have in these parts.


I'm gonna be back soon hopefully!


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

WKD-RDR said:


> Yelli - Large frame
> Revelation RCT3 140mm (set at 120mm) --> me likey
> Sram drivetrain 2X10, 26/39t x 11/36t
> X9 with X0 crank / cassette
> ...


WKD, I hear time and again that the double cranksets don't fit on the Yelli. Clearance issues. How have yours been working out? How many spacers are you using?


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## walterwhite26 (Apr 19, 2012)

bluestatevirgin said:


> WKD, I hear time and again that the double cranksets don't fit on the Yelli. Clearance issues. How have yours been working out? How many spacers are you using?


I can second this, I couldn't fit my double cranksets on my Yelli :/


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

walterwhite26 said:


> I can second this, I couldn't fit my double cranksets on my Yelli :/


What size chain rings were you trying to use?


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Im running 22/32/bash on mine. No problems. Truvative Stylo


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## ultraclyde (Apr 16, 2012)

Hey all - I'm planning on ordering a Lrg Yelli soon and swapping components over from my Niner One9. I've read about many issues depending on crankset choice, and I'm hoping to reuse the older Bontrager SS crankset I'm currently running. It's a few years old with a sealed BB and a 32T ring, and the ring mounts on the outside of the spider. On the Niner frame I have almost 3/4" clearance to chainstay, easily enough to fit my fat finger between the frame and the gear. Do you think that crankset will work on the Yelli? I'm planning on building it as a SS and perhaps going 1x10 later.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

jeffw-13 said:


> Im running 22/32/bash on mine. No problems. Truvative Stylo


I have the same setup except truvative firex


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## Slurry (Dec 23, 2008)

Has anyone installed a 28T Widget chainring on their Yelli? I'm only interested in going 1x if I can get a 28T ring, this looks like a decent albeit expensive solution. XT 775 Crank

I'd imagine the inner chainring guide would get in the way, I'd probably keep my normal 32T/104 bashguard and just get the lone chainring from them.


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## AaronK (Dec 21, 2006)

I just took my brand new YS out for its first ride. I got some brand new I9s on it as well. Green frame and gold wheels. I took the rest of my xtr parts off my 09 rip9 and with a 1 x 9....I like gears.

The first major thing I noticed is this is a hardtail. The second thing is this bike loves to carve. Love the geometry. Downhill is fun but I have to learn how to deal with rear bouncing around. Makes the ride more lively. It climbs just fine. It does like to wheelie so you have to keep that in mind on the steep ups.

Now for the bad. After 4 miles of its first ride on the new wheels on a flat section after a climb where it's nice to take a water break. Drinking it one handed the bike comes to a stop. I didn't go over the handle bars. I look down at a 6 inch stick wedged into the rims with the chain and rear derailer wrapped around it. It had broken the derailer hanger...4 miles in. 

Thanks to the quicklink thread I read earlier I was able to easily get the chain off and convert the yelli into a styder and coasted/walked out. I got it home and fixed it. Now it has it's scratches and my spokes are a bit messed up. I hope to make it to 6 miles tomorrow.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Med Yelli Screamy. 1x9 32front 11-34rear. 118mm BB
120mm 2011 Reba Ti set at 120mm 1.125" straight steerer so that I can run a zero-stack headset to increase head angle. Have also tried it with 100mm fox F29s with 9mm axle (with bolted up axle hub) but no comparison with steering precision compared with Rebas (so the foxes are back at 80mm and back on my XC race bike).
Really having fun with this bike, confidence inspiring (I think its having the 120mm up front to get you out of trouble)
pics ... 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/fastfish_1x1/


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

*It's a Keeper!*

^^^ That looks like the face of a happy new Yelli owner!

My Yelli won't have a new owner any time soon. Just made a few changes from the original build...most notably going to my Fox FIT RLC at 100mm(from a Marz Bomber 120mm), Kindshox i950r, and Magura MT8's. So far(only 1 ride), I'm really liking the bike at 100mm travel - speeds up that front end just enough and feels more in-tune with the quick rear end. With the slack head-tube, I don't think the extra 20mm is all that necessary - atleast for my local trails.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Looks nice, I had mine with FoxF29s at 100mm with 9mm QR and then with Rebas at 120mm with 20mm thru. I prefer the precision with the rebas. Didnt run out of travel at 100mm though. Steering seems precise enough with 120mm. BUT im running 1.125" straight steerer and ZS lower headset, so probably with sag, it comes out similar height to a 100mm with EC headset.
It felt like the handling was pretty sensitive to bar width -- I tried lock-on grips at various positions on my 700mm wide bars before cutting down. I found too wide was awkward to steer on the ups (running 80mm stem). Settled at about 655mm in the end (other 29ers are at 620mm)
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

gets its first race outing on Tuesday, if I dont hurt myself at BMX on Sunday


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

I didn't intend to race my YS, but I DNF'd on my Superfly due to a cut and like my YS so much I decided to try it. I really love just putting the hammer down and barging through the rock gardens on these big tough Hans Dampf's. So, when the course is pretty rough with a lot of sharps, ledges and such I choose the YS. I also am really liking the move to a 90mm stem from the 70mm.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

fastfish666 said:


> Looks nice, I had mine with FoxF29s at 100mm with 9mm QR and then with Rebas at 120mm with 20mm thru. I prefer the precision with the rebas. Didnt run out of travel at 100mm though. Steering seems precise enough with 120mm. BUT im running 1.125" straight steerer and ZS lower headset, so probably with sag, it comes out similar height to a 100mm with EC headset.
> It felt like the handling was pretty sensitive to bar width -- I tried lock-on grips at various positions on my 700mm wide bars before cutting down. I found too wide was awkward to steer on the ups (running 80mm stem). Settled at about 655mm in the end (other 29ers are at 620mm)
> https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02


I would prefer to run mine at 120mm(with a 60-70mm stem, instead of the 80mm), but I couldn't seem to get the Marz dialed in the way I like it. Unfortunately, my Fox doesn't go to 120mm.

I swapped out the wide bar I had on there as well. I was running a 710mm riser - loved it on the downs, but wandered a little on the ups and is simply too wide for some of the tight sections on local trails. Still have a somewhat wide bar at 680, but it's more manageable.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

How do you find the Hans Dampf tyres -- they are kinda tempting. Ive tried Conti Mountain kings in 2.2 and 2.4 and find them pretty good, if a bit undersize. Good traction/weight ratio. I also have Race Kings in 2.0 which maybe roll a bit better. Purgatory 2.2 from Spec is my favourite non-race tyre. Dont like WTB Exiwolf or Michelin XC. Have a pair of Kenda Nevegals which are passable if you can run them low enough pressure without pinchflatting, but they are heavy and draggy. Also have a 2.3 Nobby Nic which Ive only tried once on the rear so far, but seems OK


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

fastfish666 said:


> How do you find the Hans Dampf tyres -- they are kinda tempting. Ive tried Conti Mountain kings in 2.2 and 2.4 and find them pretty good, if a bit undersize. Good traction/weight ratio. I also have Race Kings in 2.0 which maybe roll a bit better. Purgatory 2.2 from Spec is my favourite non-race tyre. Dont like WTB Exiwolf or Michelin XC. Have a pair of Kenda Nevegals which are passable if you can run them low enough pressure without pinchflatting, but they are heavy and draggy. Also have a 2.3 Nobby Nic which Ive only tried once on the rear so far, but seems OK


I had no intention of racing them, but they roll along good enough. The snakeskin and big volume are proving to be very tough. I laugh as I ride through stuff that is taking other guys out of the race with flats. I have more experience with thinner race tires, like Nano's, Aspens, Bonty ACX etc., so can't say my opinion is backed by much true wisdom. They aired up tubless super easy and hold pressure forever it seems. Traction in all aspects is awesome, as long as it's dry, they are pretty miserable in the wet. I think due to the tall knobs they don't feel quite as firm and planted when cornering fast, but they have never let go and I continue to push to find the limits. This is probably more of a trait of the YS, but when they loose traction in back when climbing it's pretty abrupt. On my Superfly I can power up loose stuff and just get the rear to scratch a bit, but on the YS it's almost a total wash out if it breaks loose.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

*Paid yelli spam...*

Just in case anyone here is looking for a large Yelli:

Large Yelli Screamy, Marz Micro TI 29er fork, WI bb, other stuff - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*New stock?*

Any word on the fresh batch? Rumor was they would be ready in the next week or thereabouts.


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Next batch- 
Next week- YES

Sean and I are in Long Beach picking them up on Friday if all is on time.

Shipping out next week-


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)




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## dhmental (Jun 24, 2011)

Here's my new ride!:










































Some parts are just temporary since i borrowed them from my other ride, including the seat and brakes. This bike rips up and down the trail, and is so easy to manual!
Rode it in a local race, the Whisky off road this weekend and it was awesome. Weighs in at 27lbs right now, I think with a few minor changes it will be around 25lbs, i.e. changing out the steel chainring for aluminum one, and using a lighter cartridge bearing headset instead of the heavy steel ball bearing fsa one. I have it set up 1x10 which works for almost everything. It would be nice to have two rings up front for the really long extended climbs, but I think its worth the sacrifice for simplicity sake.


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## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

We just got word that our Yelli frames have made it through customs.....!!!!! Tomorrow should be very fun day ! Some teaser pics on our FaceBook page...


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## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

Hell yeah!

This pile of parts in my living room was beginning to get painful to look at!

Can't wait to see my new frame on the doorstep!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

gollub01 said:


> We just got word that our Yelli frames have made it through customs.....!!!!! Tomorrow should be very fun day ! Some teaser pics on our FaceBook page...


Oh boy, the green, orange and new blue ano looks sick!!! :thumbsup:


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

The blue is hot...can see it with some gold King pressed in. How do you choose just one? I'm glad that I didn't wait, because the ride is so awesome, but I'd really like to have one of the ano frames.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

I pre-ordered my purple Yelli months ago, and started compiling my parts list in Jan. It's been a long process, but well worth the wait. It's been torture looking at all my parts sitting in the corner of my office.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

mrdirt85 said:


> Hell yeah!
> 
> This pile of parts in my living room was beginning to get painful to look at!
> 
> Can't wait to see my new frame on the doorstep!


Like , can I have your wheels if you, like, die before the frame comes?..


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## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

wobbem said:


> Like , can I have your wheels if you, like, die before the frame comes?..


I'd say yes, but I think I'd have to start checking the brake lines and bolts on my car and motorcycles every time I wanted to go somewhere!


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## dfrazm (Oct 4, 2007)

*Website stock*

So are the YS frames listed on the website the remainders of the last production run, or are they the ones coming in right now that have already been spoken for? I assume that they are the last run as BLUE is not listed?


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

pretty much got the bike dialled and did my first race on it. Unfortunately there was enough technical downs to make up the time my poor fitness lost on the ups!


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

note modified bottle cage so that I can get a 750ml bottle into a med. frame -- hope the new frames have the bosses off the seat-tube and closer to the BB on the down-tube


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

dfrazm said:


> So are the YS frames listed on the website the remainders of the last production run, or are they the ones coming in right now that have already been spoken for? I assume that they are the last run as BLUE is not listed?


Yes

Its the old batch listed there..email them if you want to order a blue one.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

I keep watching this thread, I spent days going back and forth between these and the nimble 9. I ended up with the N9. So if you could PLEASE stop posting pics of such great looking bikes before I end up owning both of them!!!


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

eurospek said:


> Oh boy, the green, orange and new blue ano looks sick!!! :thumbsup:


Damn that blue frame is sexy, I wonder canfield has a trade-up policy, lol. I think its time to convince the wife I need a spare frame, for when friends or a family member needs a rig.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

dfrazm said:


> So are the YS frames listed on the website the remainders of the last production run, or are they the ones coming in right now that have already been spoken for? I assume that they are the last run as BLUE is not listed?


Check out the website for current inventory. Looks like they have a couple of the new batch colors ready to ship and in stock! :thumbsup:

Tip: To see current inventory, add to cart an XL Semi-Polished silver (which is out of stock) and then you should be able to see what's in stock.


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## twinracer (Sep 1, 2008)

hitechredneck said:


> I keep watching this thread, I spent days going back and forth between these and the nimble 9. I ended up with the N9. So if you could PLEASE stop posting pics of such great looking bikes before I end up owning both of them!!!


How did you pick nimble9? I cannot decide


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

twinracer said:


> How did you pick nimble9? I cannot decide


Mainly for 3 reasons, 
1. Sliding drop out so I can run it single speed with different rear cogs without the need of a tensioner.

2. I really like the feel of steal over aluminum, and the seat stays wrapping up over the top tube is just plain old sweet looking. :thumbsup:

3. They had ORANGE in stock!!!!! 

That is about how I made my choice, not the most educated but hey works for me. Hope this helped.

HTRN


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That blue looks awesome!!!


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*Thanks Mr. Postman.*










I can finish building it after fixing a ton of junk at the shop today.
I wonder how many MGXs,Powerclimbers and Schwinn varsitys were repaired to fund this project?

Moab in two weeks yea!


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Im jealous, i did not get mine yet!:madman:


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Any build pics of new colors ?


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

92gli said:


> Any build pics of new colors ?


Not so much a new color, but my anodized purple Yelli should be built Thursday or Friday and I'll be sure to post some pictures.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*Smurfy!*



92gli said:


> Any build pics of new colors ?


Went on the first real ride last night, tight switchbacks were cake! This frame did everything I wanted and more. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

92gli said:


> Any build pics of new colors ?


Ask and ye shall receive. Just built today. 2012 ano orange sexyness (untrimmed hydraulic lines notwithstanding)


----------



## cruiserman (Jun 9, 2008)

Very nice. I didn't realize the orange color was that dark.


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## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

It's a very deep orange. The color and texture are beautiful. Unfortunately the straitline ano parts I put on don't match, but it still looks good. I'd rather the parts match the frame color than the other way around. The anodizing on these frames is gorgeous.

Stupid things like color matching aside, I took her out for her maiden voyage tonight and I'm completely sold. I don't think I could have chosen a better bike for the variety of terrain I ride in the mid Atlantic.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

I think it looks great with the 2 different shades of orange and the gold kashima on that sweet fork. :thumbsup:


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That's an awesome looking Yelli. I agree with 92gli, I would rather have two contrasting orange anos than 2 kinda similar but different.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> That's an awesome looking Yelli. I agree with 92gli, I would rather have two contrasting orange anos than 2 kinda similar but different.


Mud, dirt, dust and some scrapes will make it look great.

Morgan


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

I just put 2.4 Ardents on mine today, (going downhilling on Sat using an uplift) had to shift the swing on the front derailleur on my 2 ring set up, out because of tyre rub, thus resulting in the chain rubbing on the derailleur, so I stuck another BB spacer in between the crank. This sound right to you?


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## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

morganfletcher said:


> Mud, dirt, dust and some scrapes will make it look great.
> 
> Morgan


Agreed!


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Not enough action shots with people on their sweet Yelli's. 

I also need to learn to ride with my mouth closed. :crazy:


----------



## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

were you yelling or screaming?


----------



## gollub01 (Mar 24, 2008)

Nice looking builds you guys! Its hard to capture the true sparkle of the ano finishes in picture.....I'm on the quest for some DH Yelli shots this weekend !


----------



## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

Spent the evening playing with the GoPro, GorillaPod, and of course the YelliScreamy on Dr. J trail in North Park, Pittsburgh.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)




----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Dang that Dr J looks fun Mr Dirt. Canfield posted your video on their facebook page. Gotta check that out since Im less than an hour from North Park. Here's a little thing I put together from Brady's Run


----------



## mrdirt85 (Mar 5, 2012)

jeffw-13 said:


> Dang that Dr J looks fun Mr Dirt. *Canfield posted your video on their facebook page*. Gotta check that out since Im less than an hour from North Park. Here's a little thing I put together from Brady's Run


Haha! Rad! Looks like I should make some full speed videos. Definitely held back on that one with no one around to scrape me off the trail.

Brady's run looks nice and fast. What area is that in? PM me for my number if you ever wanna ride around pittsburgh. I'm about 3 miles away from south park but try to make my rounds to all the area trails as much as possible.

I hit up DirtRag's DirtFest last weekend at Raystown. The Yelli was definitely the weapon of choice on their 30+ miles of pump track. So stoked on this bike!


----------



## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Nice vid...RJD2 too? Saweet!


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

mrdirt85 said:


> Haha! Rad! Looks like I should make some full speed videos. Definitely held back on that one with no one around to scrape me off the trail.
> 
> Brady's run looks nice and fast. What area is that in? PM me for my number if you ever wanna ride around pittsburgh. I'm about 3 miles away from south park but try to make my rounds to all the area trails as much as possible.
> 
> I hit up DirtRag's DirtFest last weekend at Raystown. The Yelli was definitely the weapon of choice on their 30+ miles of pump track. So stoked on this bike!


Brady's Run is about an hour northwest of Pittsburgh near Beaver Falls. Good fun :thumbsup: Google says it's a little over an hour from South Park.

I work 3-11 so all my rides are weekday mornings. I save wekends for spending time with family and my girl. Im going back on days in a couple weeks so after I get that all figured out Ill look you up

Here's another Brady's Run video (not mine)


----------



## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

*Mean Green!!*

More picts in the canfield yelli photo thread. Fun bike to ride. No complaints. Great customer service. :thumbsup:


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

mrdirt85 said:


> I hit up DirtRag's DirtFest last weekend at Raystown. The Yelli was definitely the weapon of choice on their 30+ miles of pump track. So stoked on this bike!


That is the Lord's truth. I borrowed a SC TRc for a day, and while that bike blew my tits off, the Yelli was a faster machine for Raystown terrain. Such a winning bike.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

xcpeddler said:


> More picts in the canfield yelli photo thread. Fun bike to ride. No complaints. Great customer service. :thumbsup:


Your bike is set up remarkably similar to mine. I have a few rides on those new xt brakes and they kick ass. Which is good, because the yelli encourages me to carry ludicrous speeds into corners. :thumbsup:










Next time I get to french creek there's a section I think I can go to plaid on.


----------



## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

The new XT brakes are as good as R1's, maybe better. Amazing. I would have gone all Shimano if their new XTR rear derailleur came in a short cage. I always liked your bike 92 in that silver polished. On another note....... Anyone riding a medium sized Yelli, King cage made me a new stainless water bottle cage with the straps mounted as high as possible. A 21 oz insulated water bottle will now fit on the bike for those times you just don't want to wear the Camelback.


----------



## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

That PLAID is so funny. Every time I have hit plaid it has taken several weeks to recover from the physical and mental damage done.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

xcpeddler said:


> On another note....... Anyone riding a medium sized Yelli, King cage made me a new stainless water bottle cage with the straps mounted as high as possible. A 21 oz insulated water bottle will now fit on the bike for those times you just don't want to wear the Camelback.


Good info...is that a custom order sort of deal? I'm limited with bottle size on my medium(with King cages as well).


----------



## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

They will make them custom order for you. Just call them up. Cost w/shipping was $21. You buy from their online site and at checkout in the comment to seller or whatever that box is called you say mount the straps as high as possible. When you call they will tell you how to do it. Mine came in the mail in less than a week.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

xcpeddler said:


> They will make them custom order for you. Just call them up. Cost w/shipping was $21. You buy from their online site and at checkout in the comment to seller or whatever that box is called you say mount the straps as high as possible. When you call they will tell you how to do it. Mine came in the mail in less than a week.


Good deal. Thanks for the info. I'll finally be able to use all of my bottles instead of running shorty's.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

I'm debating between 120 or 140mm fork for my yellli.
What is the bb height at 140 and maxxis ardent?
I


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Id recommend trying at 120 and seeing if you need more? Or run a 1.125 steerer with a zero stack lower headset cup which will lower the front end by about 14mm compared with a ExCup lower headset cup. (IM actually doing this with my 120 rebas to try to keep the head angle a bit steeper for more fun in tight single-track


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

xcpeddler said:


> More picts in the canfield yelli photo thread. Fun bike to ride. No complaints. Great customer service. :thumbsup:


Nice ! -- whats the chain device? Looks easier to set up than my BB-mounted one


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

*yell-screamy bottle cage (med.frame)*



ncfisherman said:


> Good deal. Thanks for the info. I'll finally be able to use all of my bottles instead of running shorty's.


Here is my customised bottle cage for a medium YS -- I used a dead carbon cage, inverted and then a bit of plastic from a chocolate-powder container (but an old bottle would probably work just as well). Holds a 750ml bottle well (Its fallen out once so far) but not so good with a small bottle.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> I'm debating between 120 or 140mm fork for my yellli.
> What is the bb height at 140 and maxxis ardent?
> I


It's 13.5" for mine; XL frame, 140mm Revelation, 2.4 Ardents.

Initial build and subsequent modifications

Morgan


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

Spam:
Make me an offer on my Yelli Screamy so I can have Walt build me a XXL version!
Purple Ano XL Yelli Screamy / Marzocchi 44 TI / philcentric bottom bracket plus other purple goodies Magura brakes - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


----------



## badgermtb (Jun 6, 2007)

Can anyone heere speak to the 34x19 "magic gear" possibility for the Canfield Yelli Screamy?

I know that 32x21 works. Too light. I thought I had read that 34x19 works, too. Looking for some confirmation.

Thanks!


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

yes, ran 34x19 for quite a while


----------



## badgermtb (Jun 6, 2007)

*Thanks...any details?*



martin_uk said:


> yes, ran 34x19 for quite a while


I appreciate your note. Might I ask what chainring and cog you were using. And did you go back to geared? I would use a Surly rear and an e13 front.

I am running 1x9 now and not really digging it. the chain catches on the seat stay weld when in the 11 tooth position on the cassette. I am using two spacers on the drive side.


----------



## badgermtb (Jun 6, 2007)

*I am having the same problem...*



92gli said:


> Its not the chain. My frame has <1mm of clearance between the chain and the seatstay welds. I took a 1mm hex key and it couldn't pass through the space without encouragement.
> 
> I have 1x10 with sram xx cassette and a sram 10 speed chain. If it was a 9 speed chain the chain links would be even closer to the frame. If my cassette had a 12t high gear it would be rubbing constantly. I'm going to run it as is, hopefully it won't scrape too much. I'm not in the 11t that much anyway.
> 
> ...


My chain is rubbing/gouging the seat stay. 32T front. 11-34 rear. 9 speed. Only gouges when in 32-11...and then only if I pedal backwards.

Did you ever comeacross a rememdy to this? I am running 2 spacers onthe drive side of a Shimano XT crankset.

The frameiscooland rides well...but the spacing issues are annoyingme to the point that I am considering selling the frame and going with something a little better engineered. OR I could run it SS.


----------



## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

badgermtb said:


> I appreciate your note. Might I ask what chainring and cog you were using. And did you go back to geared? I would use a Surly rear and an e13 front.
> 
> I am running 1x9 now and not really digging it. the chain catches on the seat stay weld when in the 11 tooth position on the cassette. I am using two spacers on the drive side.


I had a Blackspire upfront with a tiny amount of clearance from the chain stay, can't remember who made the rear cog. I now have 1x10, 32t upfront and 11-36 at the back. I don't have any problems with the chain catching. I run a shadow XTR rear derailleur which does a great job tensioning the chain.


----------



## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

*34T Rotor 1x8 setup*

I have made some changes to my drivetrain and switched to a 34T rotor ring. Really like them and am glad to have one on this bike now. I had to add a 1mm spacer to the drive side of the shimano BB. Now there is the standard 2.5mm + a 1mm shim. This gives enough clearance to run a 36-37 T ring. The chainsty length is so short on this bike that moving the front ring more outboard gives a terrible chainline when running in my normal riding gears 34x 17,19,21. I use these cogs 90% of the time. So to solve this, I ditched the 11 and 13T cogs and spaced the remaining 15-36T XT cluster 5mm more outboard on the hub. Chainline is really good for what I ride normally and going to the rear 36T has nowhere near the extreme chain angle of the normal Yelli 1x10 setup. Don't miss the smaller cogs at all. Especially with a 34T or 36T front ring. Not living in the mountains the 32T ring front was too small for everyday riding here. This was all done on a 2012 Medium sized frame. I am not sure if the rear triangles on the other sized frames are identical to the Medium.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

badgermtb said:


> My chain is rubbing/gouging the seat stay. 32T front. 11-34 rear. 9 speed. Only gouges when in 32-11...and then only if I pedal backwards.
> 
> Did you ever comeacross a rememdy to this? I am running 2 spacers onthe drive side of a Shimano XT crankset.


Talked to somebody at Canfield and they said the weld was thick enough that it would be ok to file it down a little. So I did, just a teeny bit. It hasn't rubbed at all since.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

xcpeddler said:


> I have made some changes to my drivetrain and switched to a 34T rotor ring. Really like them and am glad to have one on this bike now. I had to add a 1mm spacer to the drive side of the shimano BB. Now there is the standard 2.5mm + a 1mm shim. This gives enough clearance to run a 36-37 T ring. The chainsty length is so short on this bike that moving the front ring more outboard gives a terrible chainline when running in my normal riding gears 34x 17,19,21. I use these cogs 90% of the time. So to solve this, I ditched the 11 and 13T cogs and spaced the remaining 15-36T XT cluster 5mm more outboard on the hub. Chainline is really good for what I ride normally and going to the rear 36T has nowhere near the extreme chain angle of the normal Yelli 1x10 setup. Don't miss the smaller cogs at all. Especially with a 34T or 36T front ring. Not living in the mountains the 32T ring front was too small for everyday riding here. This was all done on a 2012 Medium sized frame. I am not sure if the rear triangles on the other sized frames are identical to the Medium.


Hmmm. Wish I had a 3 piece shimano cassette on hand to experiment with. I rarely use the bottom 2 cogs on my cassette, and a better chainline for the top 2 cogs would be really nice.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

*2012 Purple Ano Yelli Screamy*

2012 Purple Yelli Sreamy Large
Shimano XT M785 Brakes 180mm Front- 160mm Rear
Answer Rove 70mm Stem White
KMC X10SL Chain Gold
Azonic 420 Platform Pedals White
Shimano XT FC-M770 Crankset 2x10
Kronos Chainring Bolts Purple
Salsa Flip Lock Seat Clamp Silver
Cane Creek Headset
Easton Haven Bars Magnesium Color
Ergon GP1 Grips Bio-Cork
Selle Italia Max Flite Gel Flow Saddle White
Rock Shox Reba RLT Ti 120mm Fork
Maxxis Ardent Tires 2.25"
Loaded Xlite Seatpost Silver 400mm
Sun Ringle' Charger Expert Wheels White
Sram X-9 RD
Sram PG-1070 11-36 Cassette
Deda Elementi Logo Bar Tape { Chainstay Protection }
Jagwire Ripcord Derailleur Housing Sterling Silver
Jagwire Universal Hyflow Brake Lines Sterling Silver
Sram X-9 Trigger Shifters
Straitline Serrated Bash Guard White
Shimano XT FD

I have been blown away by the performance of this bike. It exceeds all the pre-conceived 
thoughts I had about it. It climbs like a goat with barely any effort. Extremely quick and nimble in the corners, and surprisingly stable on the downhill. My Niner Jet 9 won't be seeing the trails much for awhile. I've taken more than 20 detailed macro pictures of the bike that I will post later on the Canfield photo thread.


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

Nice looking bikes!


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

OneBadWagon said:


> Spam:
> Make me an offer on my Yelli Screamy so I can have Walt build me a XXL version!
> Purple Ano XL Yelli Screamy / Marzocchi 44 TI / philcentric bottom bracket plus other purple goodies Magura brakes - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


I've tried to... but you ignore my PMs


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

awesome riding bikes -- just did 100km with 3500m -- heaps of sweet single-track


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Large Black pre-ordered..thanks Chris!!!

Jeff


----------



## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

I have a question about a fork i might purchase from a friend. I am in the process of building my first canfield yelli screamy and my buddy is selling a fox float 120 with the steerer cut to 6 11/16. Is the steerer cut to short for this bike? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks


----------



## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

add head tube length + headset stack height + stem stack height + whatever spacers = required steer tube


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

*110mm head tube + ?*



Agledhill said:


> I have a question about a fork i might purchase from a friend. I am in the process of building my first canfield yelli screamy and my buddy is selling a fox float 120 with the steerer cut to 6 11/16. Is the steerer cut to short for this bike? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks


Should work with a low profile stem.


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

xcpeddler said:


> More picts in the canfield yelli photo thread. Fun bike to ride. No complaints. Great customer service. :thumbsup:


Love that color!!!! :thumbsup:


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## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

The color has grown on me. It's wicked bright. Kind of a shocker when I first opened the box. I just updated post #1843 showing the 1x8 drivetrain and the King cage with the straps mounted high so that you can use an insulated water bottle.


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Thanks Chris and Sean!! - you know why.

Jeff


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Anyone using the Canfield C2 29er Wheelset?


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Looks like the fresh batch of Yelli frames are in!!!! get em while they're hot! Can't wait to get mine!


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

My frame should arrive today..tonight the build up! Yay!


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Waiting for my frame to arrive today too!
What color you get?


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Jonesy22 said:


> Waiting for my frame to arrive today too!
> What color you get?


I got a Large Emo "Not that you'd understand or care anyway" Black. 

You?


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Have a Blue coming. If ups ever shows up!


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Jonesy22 said:


> Have a Blue coming. If ups ever shows up!


I'm not happy with the man in browns service..unreasonably long..mine shipped last Wednesday..it's supposed to arrive today. Fed Ex can travel for the east coast to the west coast in under 4 days..evidently ups doesn't see it that way.

Springdale, AR, United States 07/05/2012 7:14 A.M. Out For Delivery
Springdale, AR, United States 07/04/2012 4:33 A.M. Arrival Scan
Little Rock, AR, United States 07/04/2012 12:20 A.M. Departure Scan
Little Rock, AR, United States 07/03/2012 7:29 P.M. Arrival Scan
Oklahoma City, OK, United States 07/03/2012 12:53 P.M. Departure Scan
Oklahoma City, OK, United States 07/02/2012 11:28 P.M. Arrival Scan
Salina, KS, United States 07/02/2012 6:31 P.M. Departure Scan
Salina, KS, United States 07/02/2012 1:10 P.M. Arrival Scan
Commerce City, CO, United States 07/02/2012 3:23 A.M. Departure Scan
Commerce City, CO, United States 06/29/2012 2:48 P.M. Arrival Scan
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 06/29/2012 6:08 A.M. Departure Scan
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 06/29/2012 1:04 A.M. Arrival Scan
Rexburg, ID, United States 06/28/2012 9:05 P.M. Departure Scan
United States 06/27/2012 5:46 P.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS

Really UPS? Sad.

Post pics of the blue when you get it built!


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Outs shipped out the same day! I'm in Ohio and thought for sure it would get here Tuesday.


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Jonesy22 said:


> Outs shipped out the same day! I'm in Ohio and thought for sure it would get here Tuesday.


Me too..I thought when I read the expected delivery date it was an error...I guess not. What makes it even sadder is the frame still moved over the Holiday. lol I'm thankful it's finally arriving today.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

mo0se said:


> Really UPS? Sad.


Thats logistics ! (for full effect sing it like they do in their stupid commercial).


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

The frame arrived today and I took two hours off work early to build it up..hey..today is my birthday, they were lucky I went to work period. 

Here it is!

Large frame in "Not that you'd understand or care anyway" Emo Black :thumbsup:


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Action shots this weekend!


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

weeksy950 said:


> I've tried to... but you ignore my PMs


I didn't get anything. PM sent


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

The new head badges look sweet.


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Maiden voyage today...I think we fit. Thanks Chris and Sean! The bike is wicked fun.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Sweet! Can't wait to get mine built..


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Guys,

I've got an option on an XL frame, was planning on running a 100mm Fox fork on it. 

I'm 6'0"

Is that too small for an XL really ?


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

weeksy950 said:


> Guys,
> 
> I've got an option on an XL frame, was planning on running a 100mm Fox fork on it.
> 
> ...


I'm 6' and ride a large..I don't think the travel size matters in regards to frame size..it's simply a change in head tube angle.


----------



## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

If you pass on the XL pass the deal my way! XL is too big for you IMO.


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

It's in the classifeds on here mate and also a page or two ago on this here thread.

OK, i'll bow to superior knowledge and pass on it. I run a medium Giant XTC29 so i'm thinking a Yelli in a large would be as big as i should go.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Ok so i haVe all my part on the way to build my blue yelli.
I found a used marzo 44 micro ti..now set a 100mm

My debate is.: should i put it at 120 or 140mm?
What are your experiences?


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

tartosuc said:


> Ok so i haVe all my part on the way to build my blue yelli.
> I found a used marzo 44 micro ti..now set a 100mm
> 
> My debate is.: should i put it at 120 or 140mm?
> What are your experiences?


I currently have 120mm on mine..feels great there...still climbs great and feels "right".


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

weeksy950 said:


> It's in the classifeds on here mate and also a page or two ago on this here thread.
> 
> OK, i'll bow to superior knowledge and pass on it. I run a medium Giant XTC29 so i'm thinking a Yelli in a large would be as big as i should go.


I'm 6ft and ride a size L with an 80mm stem..it's perfect that way..for me.


----------



## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Hey Moose, I thought you said no more aluminum, What made you chose it over the N-9? http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/no-more-aluminum-660276.html


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

djembe975 said:


> Hey Moose, I thought you said no more aluminum, What made you chose it over the N-9? http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/no-more-aluminum-660276.html


I had a tapered fox fork on hand that costs as much as either of the frames, the N9 won't jive with it. I rode a yelli before I bought it..and it's more than tolerable, and lightweight. I love doing drops and tech stuff...and the Yelli's playful geometry won me over. That makes a difference on how the bike feels compared to strictly race bike geo on the bike that caused me to write that. On the Yelli, its a more upright position rather than the typical stretched out position that xc race bike had. Also the chainstays are not as boxed on the Yelli as they were on that other frame. The other aluminum frame I mentioned two years ago was a strictly a race frame..it was designed to be stiffer than a wedding **** but I assumed my clyde status would make it give a little more than it did. Lot's of reasons..mostly, I love the Yelli Geometry. I'm the dog on the trail..I investigate everything. So I'm not as closed minded after all. :thumbsup:


----------



## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

tartosuc said:


> Ok so i haVe all my part on the way to build my blue yelli.
> I found a used marzo 44 micro ti..now set a 100mm
> 
> My debate is.: should i put it at 120 or 140mm?
> What are your experiences?


go big or go home Tarto!


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

The last of my parts should arrive this week!! I am excited to finally get it together but now I am worried I didn't go with enough travel on my fork..

I just purchased a FOX 32 FLOAT 29 100mm FIT CTD W/TRAIL ADJUST. Will I be happy with 100mm? I don't do any jumps..I would if I was good enough lol


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Jonesy22 said:


> The last of my parts should arrive this week!! I am excited to finally get it together but now I am worried I didn't go with enough travel on my fork..
> 
> I just purchased a FOX 32 FLOAT 29 100mm FIT CTD W/TRAIL ADJUST. Will I be happy with 100mm? I don't do any jumps..I would if I was good enough lol


If you can send it back...why not get a Talas? I think the slacker HA of the 120mm fork would feel better on any trail, but I'm just referring to my experience with my 26'ers. My hardtail has a PIKE U-Turn and I always leave it set at 140mm. My Parker has a Domain U-Turn and it never leaves 160mm. Even for some tame trails. Slacker/taller just feels better to me.


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

@ Jonesy....You should be able to remove a spacer and get 120mm out of the same fork if you want to try it..if you don't like it, just put the spacer back in.  I like mine at 120mm.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

See I am shock dumb lol 
Any instructions on how to remove the spacer?

Thanks!!!

Cant return it I bought it on Ebay.


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

Jonesy22 said:


> See I am shock dumb lol
> Any instructions on how to remove the spacer?
> 
> Thanks!!!
> ...


This might help...

Fox Tech click me

Read and follow their instructions to call and verify.  If it's possible on your particular fork, I'd suggest having someone else do it..like a LBS that has done it and knows about these forks. It's best to ask Fox first.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Thanks!
I'll give them a call when it comes in.


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Jonesy22 said:


> The last of my parts should arrive this week!! I am excited to finally get it together but now I am worried I didn't go with enough travel on my fork..
> 
> I just purchased a FOX 32 FLOAT 29 100mm FIT CTD W/TRAIL ADJUST. Will I be happy with 100mm? I don't do any jumps..I would if I was good enough lol


I ride my Yelli with a FOX Float 29 at 100mm and am very happy with it so it all really comes down to personal preference, your trails and how you ride it. I jump mine but I come from a BMX background where I prefer less travel through transitions.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Edit: I also have to add that I really appreciated the U-Turn function when I drove to Colorado. I rode by Canyon City and climbed a hill for something like 46minutes. About 5minutes in, I cranked my PIKE down to 95mm and it really helped make the climb more efficient.

Since I live in the midwest though....there isn't a climb around here long enough to warrant U-Turn for me. The flat ground and DH is so much more fun on a tall fork that I leave it alone.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Not sure if you can go to 120mm on that fork. My understanding with Fox, is that you can typically shim down the travel, but can't extend it. That's how my 100mm F29 is. 

I've been running my YS at 100 for a while now and I doubt that I'll go back to 120. The head angle is still quite slack with an external lower cup. If running 120, I would probably opt for a internal lower cup. Switching from 120 to 100, the bike immediately felt more balanced front to back.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Thanks!
Ill give it a try at 100 and see how it feels.


----------



## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

*Top Rankin' Slackness*

I can't say enough good things about this bike. After reading many reviews I settled on a large Yelli (I'm 6'), Sean at Canfield was extremely helpful and my frame arrived soon after the order was placed. I built it up with a 2 x 10 - 24/33 w/bashguard up front and 12/36 in the rear. The front fork was the big decision, with advice of MTBR members Kevinboyer and Brianwyer (thanks for your help guys) I settled on a Fox Talas 120/95 fork. The bike was fairly easy to assemble with special attention given to the transmission because the tolerances are pretty tight. My thoughts, if you want to run a 2x10 (or 3x) system without spacers which because of the short chainstays the less spacers the better to achieve a good chain line, don't use anything bigger than a 34 as your big ring for the 2x10 (or middle ring on a 3x). Small ring on the rear cassette should be a 12 or bigger, an 11 when in granny up front will cause the chain to drag on the chainstay. I also feel that a 22 as a granny is too small and will cause the chain to drag on the stay aswell, 24 seems to be the best size for the small ring. The rest of the build was easy, Stan's Flows tubeless with Hans Dampf's, Shimano brakes, Thomson post and an assortment of other quality parts to complete the build. The bike as pictured weights 28lbs.

The ride is awesome, and the bike handles extremely well in all situations. The bikes short wheelbase and progressive geometry result in immediate and positive response from rider input. The Fox Talas fork works great. On steep climbs the front end can get a little floaty so its nice to have the option to lower the front. On the downhills and on the flats the 120 HA makes this bike alot of fun to ride. Love the Hans Dampf's they climb well and really soften the ride when it gets rough. For now this will be my goto bike since every time I get on it I can't wipe the s#!t eating grin off my face.

*duplicate post in the Canfield forum.


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## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

spacebull1 said:


> Nice bike MoOse..


Thanks!


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

What do guys wrap the chainstays with?


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I used clear "helicopter" tape, which is pretty heavy duty and isn't obvious.


----------



## mo0se (Jul 31, 2006)

I don't wrap it..I use the little oblong sticky velcro (not the fuzzy side) on the top and bottom of the chainstay. They stay on believe it or not..and are easy to replace if one gets torn off. I just place 4-5 along the top and bottom evenly spaced so the chain can't come in contact with the chainstay. I will post a pic when I get home.


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

Jonesy22 said:


> What do guys wrap the chainstays with?


Home


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Ok I need help. Trying to install my truvativ stump 1.1 oct crankset.
When I tighten the crank arms down the crank won't freakn turn. What am I doing wrong??


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Jonesy22 said:


> Ok I need help. Trying to install my truvativ stump 1.1 oct crankset.
> When I tighten the crank arms down the crank won't freakn turn. What am I doing wrong??


How many BB spacers are you running?

For the chainstay, I use rubber splicing tape(or self almalgamating tape). It's the same stuff recommended above, except cheaper and local.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

2 spacers


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Jonesy22 said:


> 2 spacers


You just need one spacer on the DS cup.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

The chainring hits the frame if I use 1.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

ncfisherman said:


> For the chainstay, I use rubber splicing tape(or self almalgamating tape). It's the same stuff recommended above, except cheaper and local.


This. Also, protip:

Pre-wrap the chainstay using hockey tape with the sticky side OUT. Wrap it a little shorter than you'll be applying the splicing tape. This leaves the splicing tape stuck to the frame at the ends but not in the middle. Makes it much easier to change the wrap out after it gets torn up.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

I wanted to get everyone's opinion. I currently ride a Full Suspension 26 Trek Fuel EX 8 at 27lbs and I was contemplating this frame to be my first 29er build.I ride mostly XC as I live in Miami and we do not have any mountains here. We do have certain parks that have lots of climbs and I wanted to know if this frame would be too much for my terrain. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

What do these things climb like guys ? I'm an XC kind of guy and love my Giant XTC29. However fancy spending some spare cash on something a little more trailcentre orientated. 

Rekon i'd find this a bit too simillar ?

They're expensive over here, $1200 for frame only, so a bit of an expensive risk to take.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

weeksy950 said:


> What do these things climb like guys ? I'm an XC kind of guy and love my Giant XTC29. However fancy spending some spare cash on something a little more trailcentre orientated.
> 
> Rekon i'd find this a bit too simillar ?
> 
> They're expensive over here, $1200 for frame only, so a bit of an expensive risk to take.


You won't regret it. They are expensive in the UK, but fab to ride. Climbing is fine, slight shift of weight on saddle and no issues. They love climbing out of the saddle too. Where in the UK are you?


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Clink said:


> You won't regret it. They are expensive in the UK, but fab to ride. Climbing is fine, slight shift of weight on saddle and no issues. They love climbing out of the saddle too. Where in the UK are you?


Berks area mate.... if you're going to offer me a ride on a Yelli, i do have a car though for a test ride 

Hope you like Giant XTC's lol


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

weeksy950 said:


> Berks area mate.... if you're going to offer me a ride on a Yelli, i do have a car though for a test ride
> 
> Hope you like Giant XTC's lol


I would do, but I'm on a Nimble 9 (currently needing some replacement bits!). Charliethebikemonger has a demo Nimble 9 though.

Post up on singletrackworld, as several Yellis floating about.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Clink said:


> I would do, but I'm on a Nimble 9 (currently needing some replacement bits!). Charliethebikemonger has a demo Nimble 9 though.
> 
> Post up on singletrackworld, as several Yellis floating about.


HAd a wanted discussion on there a week or so ago. Had an offer of a rode on one but was a gazillion miles away from me.

Have been chatting with Charlie via Email. He's useless at answering the phone lol.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I think they climb pretty well, quite short chainstays so weight position more like a 26er to keep the front end on the ground. Probably also depends how you build it up, I have zero-stack headset with 1.125 fork to keep the front end down (fork is still at 120mm travel though). Probably not as good as my Salsa Mamasita, but then its 2kg heavier due to burlier parts and tyres. Can get up everything I can on the Salsa, just a bit slower maybe -- running 1x9 with 12-36 on back and 32 on front. Salsa is 2x9 with 11-34 and 29/38 on the front.
You wont regret it though, really good fun to ride and you can hammer them hard!
PS I got mine direct from states (to France) watch out for customs though


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

regarding sizing: Ive got a Med (Im 5'11" and ride Med on-one and Salsa) -- Its about the same eff TT length but seatpost (Thomson 410mm) is pretty much on the limit, no set-back as you are right over the back of the bike with those short chainstays, which makes the cockpit length a bit shorter and more play/trail bike orientated. 
Wrap chainstay in old tube or road bartape


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

fastfish666 said:


> PS I got mine direct from states (to France) watch out for customs though


Looked into that. It comes in at £750 bought in UK from local dealer. I can get it for about £650 from US including postage and import tax etc. I felt the extra £100 was worth spending to get warranty/backup issues.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

I bought mine from these guys, paid via pay pal, arrived within a week, no customs, 800 euro = £629. :thumbsup:
Canfield Brothers Europe


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

wobbem said:


> I bought mine from these guys, paid via pay pal, arrived within a week, no customs, 800 euro = £629. :thumbsup:
> Canfield Brothers Europe


£649 after postage..

They only have a medium in stock, i'm thinking i should really go for a large on this one.

Many thanks for the link though.


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Weeksy - You can try my xl if you're ever over peaslake way.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Bunzl, you must be the other Yelli I've been hearing about in the Surrey Hills. I will keep a look out, not so easy at the moment with all this rain.........


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Bunzl said:


> Weeksy - You can try my xl if you're ever over peaslake way.


Bunzl, you fancy a bit of a pootle on Sunday ? looks dry and i was planning on taking one of the motorbikes out, but could possibly hook up instead ?


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

Dry? In the UK? At the moment?

Are you delirious?!? :eekster:


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Clink said:


> Dry? In the UK? At the moment?
> 
> Are you delirious?!? :eekster:


You'd think so wouldn't you.. but that's what the weatherman seems to think... although you'd imagine the trails are insanely wet.

I've been chatting to Charliethebikemonger about the Yelli and assuming my sale of my AM bike goes OK at the weekend, i can see myself ordering a Yelli next week.


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## WKD-RDR (Sep 1, 2007)

*size Large frame for sale*

Paid Spam:

SOLD


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

WKD-RDR said:


> Paid Spam:
> 
> Canfield Yelli Screamy Frame (size Large) - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


Ship to UK and i'll do $500 via paypal tonight. (8.49pm here)

Steve.


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

wobbem said:


> Bunzl, you must be the other Yelli I've been hearing about in the Surrey Hills. I will keep a look out, not so easy at the moment with all this rain.........


I rode my Yelli round Peaslake back in April on what I thought was a wet spring day. Turns out it was the first day of the summer weather. Even so, the Yelli ate up the trails.

I have a large in the Swinley area if you fancy a spin.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

martin_uk said:


> I rode my Yelli round Peaslake back in April on what I thought was a wet spring day. Turns out it was the first day of the summer weather. Even so, the Yelli ate up the trails.
> 
> I have a large in the Swinley area if you fancy a spin.


Cheers mate, I'm hoping to buy that one above tonight


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## martin_uk (Feb 11, 2004)

weeksy950 said:


> Cheers mate, I'm hoping to buy that one above tonight


As you're in Berks we'll have to have a Yelli meet up sometime.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

martin_uk said:


> As you're in Berks we'll have to have a Yelli meet up sometime.


Deffo mate, Swinley is my local haunting ground. Well, not that local, i'm over towards Didcot but work in Reading so local from the office.

Lets see if i can get that one, if not i'll be shouting you


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Meeting pals at Swinley on Sunday, about only place to ride when it gets this wet, be great to have a Yelli meet one day and stun the locals


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

WKD-RDR said:


> Paid Spam:
> 
> Canfield Yelli Screamy Frame (size Large) - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories





weeksy950 said:


> Ship to *UK* and i'll do *$500* via paypal tonight. (8.49pm here)
> 
> Steve.


That's comical. I've shipped a few frames this year (only in the USA) and shipping was around $50 and that's staying within the country.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Im having a heck of a time getting my YS together.
I have a truvativ stylo 1.1 OCt crankset.
I installed the BB which what I thought correctly and didn't use any spacers..Well the 36t chainring hits the frame. So use a few spacers. I big and small one one the drive said and it clears. I then tighten up the crank arm so it doesn't jiggle and I can now barely turn the crank!

I am so lost...
Also it has a bashguard on it and I bought a MRP 1x FD mount, Can I use both?


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

I am having the same exact problem with x9 2x10 crankset and gxp bottom bracket. Hopefully somebody can give us some input on what to possibly do.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

eurospek said:


> That's comical. I've shipped a few frames this year (only in the USA) and shipping was around $50 and that's staying within the country.


You think offering someone their asking price and splitting postage 50-50 is a comical offer ? Seriously.

I sold a Stumpjumper last night, my mate wanted £625, i got him £570. I sold a Bionicon this weekend, start price was £1150, i took £800.

Why's the offer above comical ?


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Just to clarify, there's another frame in the debate from the US, a Niner FS

2010 Niner Jet 9 Aluminum MTB frame large 29er frameset | eBay

Postage is $76.

So i'm actually offering the bloke $26 less than asking price... or <5%.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Jonesy22 said:


> Im having a heck of a time getting my YS together.
> I have a truvativ stylo 1.1 OCt crankset.
> I installed the BB which what I thought correctly and didn't use any spacers..Well the 36t chainring hits the frame. So use a few spacers. I big and small one one the drive said and it clears. I then tighten up the crank arm so it doesn't jiggle and I can now barely turn the crank!
> 
> ...


Did you try it with just one 2.5mm spacer on the driveside cup?

You can't use the 1x with a BG.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

If you have the original Canfield box, you can ship internationally via USPS. I shipped my purple XL across the pond. Don't remember the cost, but it wasn't that bad or I wouldn't have done it. Seller got the frame and Marzocchi micronti in good condition in great time with a surprising amount of tracking info. 

Went to Britain I believe.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

appleSSeed said:


> If you have the original Canfield box, you can ship internationally via USPS. I shipped my purple XL across the pond. Don't remember the cost, but it wasn't that bad or I wouldn't have done it. Seller got the frame and Marzocchi micronti in good condition in great time with a surprising amount of tracking info.
> 
> Went to Britain I believe.


Agreed mate. I've sent a set of MotoX wheels to the States without issue and in 4-5 days total. We'll see what the seller says, although i've had no reply from him as of yet.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

using one spacer my 36t still hits the frame...


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Jonesy22 said:


> using one spacer my 36t still hits the frame...



Chainring clearance is just barely enough. by fnagrom, on Flickr

That's a 32T ring on an e.thirteen crank, no funny business with crank / bb spacing.

Morgan


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

must be this stylo crank then..


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

or the 36 tooth ring


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

but would that cause it to lock up when tightening?


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## carrlf (Mar 26, 2011)

Jonesy22 said:


> but would that cause it to lock up when tightening?


Most likely when your tightening the cranks the chainring is tightening right up against the frame and not allowing it to turn. Thats the only thing I can make sense of. I am sure your going to have to use a 32 ring or figure out how to space it farther out. You could also run the ring on the outside where the bashguard is and that may work out for you. That would allow you to run the correct spacing and run your 36t chainring.


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## carrlf (Mar 26, 2011)

The new Ano. Orange Yelli


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I can't fit anything bigger than a 32T on the middle position of my SLX cranks. A 36T wouldn't even let me fit the crank arm.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Jonesy22 said:


> Im having a heck of a time getting my YS together.
> I have a truvativ stylo 1.1 OCt crankset.
> I installed the BB which what I thought correctly and didn't use any spacers..Well the 36t chainring hits the frame. So use a few spacers. I big and small one one the drive said and it clears. I then tighten up the crank arm so it doesn't jiggle and I can now barely turn the crank!


The frame is designed to use a 32t ring with standard chainline offset. The reason it won't spin after adding the spacers is that you've made the BB bearing width too large with the spacers. When you tighten the crank arm bolt, you're compressing the bearing assembly such that it won't spin.

Buy a 32t and ring and you're problems should be solved.


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Jonesy22 said:


> Im having a heck of a time getting my YS together.
> I have a truvativ stylo 1.1 OCt crankset.
> I installed the BB which what I thought correctly and didn't use any spacers..Well the 36t chainring hits the frame. So use a few spacers. I big and small one one the drive said and it clears. I then tighten up the crank arm so it doesn't jiggle and I can now barely turn the crank!
> 
> ...


I'm running a 32-22 2x10 drivetrain with no spacers and it works like a charm. As stated above, ditch the 36 and go smaller to eliminate all of your frustrations.


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## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

With a shimano crank you use 1 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. This is the standard crank setup and will give you clearance for a 32t sprocket. I added an additional 1 mm spacer and am using a 34t Rotor ring (about same size as a 37t on larger side). I am using a 2012 XT crank. You need to keep adding spacers to use rings larger than 32t. All manufacturers cranks fit differently, so keep messing with it and you will be ok. Beer breaks are for times when things don't go together as planned.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

I just got mine built up tonight.

Medium Frame
Canfield Wheels with Tioga Psycho Genius Tires setup tubeless
XT Brakes
Xt 11-36 cassette and chain
Truvativ Stylo OCT crankset 32T ring 1x10
Easton Haven Carbon Bars
Race Face Turbine Stem
Thomson Seatpost
MRP 1x FD Guide
Fox CTD Fork
Crampon Ultimate Pedals


----------



## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

I am using a 2x10 x9 crankset 39x26. Realizing this won't work and i need a 32t outer chainring, does anyone know where or what outer chainring i need to buy?


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Applesseed - it was me that took your yelli and fork and its still going strong. For the price of the postage i couldn't fault it. 

Weeksy - Sorry, posted and then got distracted so didn't see your reply until this morning. If you buy one from the US then the USPS service provides tracking and is pretty quick. You'll have to pay customs though so factor that in and it will be based on the value the package is insured for. 

Wobbem - Yep, that'll be me. I'm down there most weekends as i live just down the road.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Bunzl said:


> Applesseed - it was me that took your yelli and fork and its still going strong. For the price of the postage i couldn't fault it.
> 
> Weeksy - Sorry, posted and then got distracted so didn't see your reply until this morning. If you buy one from the US then the USPS service provides tracking and is pretty quick. You'll have to pay customs though so factor that in and it will be based on the value the package is insured for.
> 
> Wobbem - Yep, that'll be me. I'm down there most weekends as i live just down the road.


No worries Bunzl, The guy in the US never relplied... i got sick of the mudfest in the UK... So i bought a Bianchi road bike to run along side my 29er.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Jonesy22 said:


> I just got mine built up tonight.


Wow, that looks fantastic. :thumbsup:

Drop your mrp down. The ceiling of the plastic part should be right above the chain, with only a few mms of gap. It may not do anything for you like that.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Thanks! I wondered about the MRP. I'll adjust it.


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Jonesy22 said:


> I just got mine built up tonight.
> 
> Medium Frame
> Canfield Wheels with Tioga Psycho Genius Tires setup tubeless
> ...


So what's on your HS top cap? It's wierding me out.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

It's a iPhone mount.
It's made for my case. 
Rokbed v3 Bike Mount


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I would have smashed my iphone into a million pieces if I had it attached to my Yelli.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

evening ride...


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

I'm going to be using a Shimano XT m785 crankset 1x10 with a 32t front ring and an 11-34 rear cassette. How many spacers do I have to use to not have any rubbing?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

08hardrockmiami said:


> I'm going to be using a Shimano XT m785 crankset 1x10 with a 32t front ring and an 11-34 rear cassette. How many spacers do I have to use to not have any rubbing?


One, drive-side, chainring in middle position.

Morgan


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Thanks Morgan


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Can someone provide me with the Cane Creek part numbers I would need to install a headset or provide links to the ones I need. I'm a little confused in reference to the ones I need.

Also would this CK headset work? Chris King InSet3 Tapered Headset 44mm-49mm at Chris King InSet3 Tapered Headset 44mm-49mm

thanks for the help


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

08hardrockmiami said:


> Can someone provide me with the Cane Creek part numbers I would need to install a headset or provide links to the ones I need. I'm a little confused in reference to the ones I need.
> 
> Also would this CK headset work? Chris King InSet3 Tapered Headset 44mm-49mm at Chris King InSet3 Tapered Headset 44mm-49mm
> 
> thanks for the help


Ask, and you shall receive. Keep in mind these part numbers are if you are using a tapered 1.5" to 1.125" fork.

Top assembly - 40 series - Cane Creek PN# BAA0080K (ZS44)
Bottom assembly - 40 series - Cane Creek PN# BAA0091K (EC49)

That King headset looks like it would fit too.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Thanks Josh I appreciate it.

Yes i'll be using a tapered fork/


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

just a shor movie of my Yelli in action in France ...
mirkwood1 - YouTube


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

08hardrockmiami: The King Inset 3 fits the yelli. You would have to have the frame reamed to King's spec - unless the new Yelli frame is within King spec. I found that my gen 1 Yelli would not fit the King out of the box and the headtube needed to be reamed deeper for the top cup.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Thanks for the heads up NCfisherman


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Just get a cane creek 40. It's as nice a headset as anyone could possibly ever need, As long as you like black.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Just finished ordering one of my last parts for the build! Now to wait for the wheels to be built which should be about 2-3 weeks. Here's my build list so far:


Part
Canfield Brothers Medium Frame
2013 Fox Talas 29 120 CTD FIT 
Cane Creek 40 Headset
2012 M785 Brakes 160mm Rotors F/R
2012 X9 Shifter
2012 X9 RD
MRP Lopes SLChainguide
M785 XT Crankset
HBC 32T Chainring
Specialized Phenom 132 Saddle
Thomson Seat post
Thomson Seat Clamp
ESI Chunky Grips 
Shimano XT M771 10 Speed Cassette
SRAM PC-1051 Chain
Thomson 70mm Stem
East EC70 Carbon Handlebars Low Rise
Hope Pro II/ Arch EX Wheelset
Continental Mountain King 29 x 2.2


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Looks like a nice build! I went with the Canfield wheels..they are great so far!


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Morning guys,

Any issues running a 100mm fork on these ?

Also looking at running with a E-13 SRS Plus chainguide if i can get away with it from a clearance perspective. Will be fitting a Shimano Saint BB due to the longer thread on drive side.

Would i be better sourcing a 120-140mm fork ? 

P.S..... Yes... i've eventually bought one


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I ran mine with my Fox F29s set to 100mm -- no problem, but well worth getting a through-axle. Have Reba Tis set at 120mm with 20mm through axle.
Probably handling will be a little snappier with 100mm due to steeper head angle -- depends what sort of riding style you prefer. With 120mm it feels like you can plough through anything, with 100mm you may have to be a little more careful on line choice, but probably not much  I still take my 80mm Salsa Mamasita (with 72 head angle) pretty much anywhere, though maybe a bit more slowly:


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

For tight twisty XC trails without many rocks, 100mm works great. 120mm also still turns very well. It's not quite as quick, but can handle rougher terrain and pedal strikes aren't quite as bad. This seems to be the sweet spot for my medium frame. I never could get the bike to feel balanced wtih 140mm.


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

100mm here. Very stable at speed but still quick enough in the tight stuff around here.


----------



## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

100mm here...No problems at all..Just trying to get in shape for climbing after going 1x10 lol


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

weeksy950 said:


> Would i be better sourcing a 120-140mm fork ?


In my experience, the 110/140 height-adjust Revelation is ideal for this bike. I leave it at 140mm 95% of the time, only drop it for some climbs.

Morgan


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Finally got around to taking a picture of mine. (Please ignore how far back the seat is. Experimenting with the new seat post)


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

What tires/tyres are you guys/galls riding? Ive been trying various one around 2.2 - 2.4 wide for fairly heavy duty trail riding in rocky terrain:
Spec. Purgatory 2.2 -- 792g one of the best Ive tried so far (front)
Conti Moountain-King 1st edition 2.4 -- 788g very good in a wide range of conditions (front)
Conti X-King 2.4 -- 736g not tried it yet, but it looks good
Schwalbe nobby nick 2.35 -- 740g OK in the back
WTB Exiwoolf 2.3 -- 806g rubbish, worst tyre Ive ever used (just about passable on dry bitumen/rock as a rear tyre)


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

fastfish666 said:


> What tires/tyres are you guys/galls riding? Ive been trying various one around 2.2 - 2.4 wide for fairly heavy duty trail riding in rocky terrain:
> Spec. Purgatory 2.2 -- 792g one of the best Ive tried so far (front)
> Conti Moountain-King 1st edition 2.4 -- 788g very good in a wide range of conditions (front)
> Conti X-King 2.4 -- 736g not tried it yet, but it looks good
> ...


Conti MtnKing 2.4 Black Chili supersonic is one of the worst tires I've ever had. Drifts corners instead of sticking and biting.

Sent from my daggum phone because I have no life.


----------



## Mr.Quint (Mar 22, 2012)

chelboed said:


> Conti MtnKing 2.4 Black Chili supersonic is one of the worst tires I've ever had. Drifts corners instead of sticking and biting.
> 
> Sent from my daggum phone because I have no life.


I don't speak from direct experience, but what I understand is that the previous Mountain King was awful, and the newer version, the Mountain King II is great. I'm about to get one and find out, but obviously, your mileage may vary.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I guess it depends a lot on what you ride, here its a mixture of rock and loam. Ive found the Mk1 Mountain kings to be very good, I had a quick try on the Mk2 version, but they were fresh out the box, and the trails were moist and I didnt like they as much as the Mk1 -- I think it may well have been that they still had the mould release agent on them which made them very slippery in the wet!








Moountain king Mk1 on the front, but I forget if it was the 2.2 or 2.4
Note that the 2.0s come up pretty narrow


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

I've been running 1st versions mt Ks 2.4 for 2 years, love em, in soft soil, roots, mud ( to a level).. just keep them away from wet rock, just got a chili haven't tried it yet but expecting good things.
ps they look great as well with that big 29er lettering


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

My blue yelli is cursed, i think it does not want to be built!.

It started with my headset, i had. 1.5 at home to use the bottom part...so. Wanted to buy a semi-intergrated headset for he top part of my yelli, : nothing was available a my lbs...or at their distributer....ended up ordering from CRC... *1 rweek delay.
*
Received my wheels, wanted to try getto tubeless... Had no more stans liquid so *2 days late*r i got to my lbs to buy the sealant...never been able to get the tires seated.* Few more days delay untill i could get tubes:mad*:

Got my 44 micro ti fork...did the 140 mm mod, to realize that i dont have any more fork oil..... *3 days delay* before i could get to a motorcycle shop to get oil!:madman:

Last week found out my crankset did not fit..need new crankset...order at crc.*..another week delay*...:madman:

Finally got my cranks, got it all installed, started working on my drivetrain... The x9 twist shifters i got from CRC are 8 speed!!!:eekster::madman::madmax:another *unknown delay!*


----------



## pdqmach26 (Jul 24, 2011)

*Poor service*



tartosuc said:


> My blue yelli is cursed, i think it does not want to be built!.
> 
> It started with my headset, i had. 1.5 at home to use the bottom part...so. Wanted to buy a semi-intergrated headset for he top part of my yelli, : nothing was available a my lbs...or at their distributer....ended up ordering from CRC... *1 rweek delay.
> *
> ...


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Mine is somwhere past Chicago and not quite in the UK yet.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

pdqmach26 said:


> tartosuc said:
> 
> 
> > My blue yelli is cursed, i think it does not want to be built!.
> ...


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Same here. They were great to work with. Their track record is one of excellent service. Sometimes one falls through the cracks and unfortunately you drew the short straw.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

PErsonnaly i was just talking about my "technical problems"
My experience with Canfield has alawys been great...


----------



## chestercospinner (Apr 8, 2007)

*paid spam - 2012 Med Yelli Frame up for grabs*

In Classifieds: 2012 Canfield Yellie Screamy Frame - Medium Black - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

Great frame but I'm strapped for cash. carry on with the yelli stoke...


----------



## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

All of my parts are finally in with the exception of my wheel set which starts getting built this week. I am so excited I cant wait. Can anyone guesstimate what the final weight of my bike should be judging by the following build list?


Black Medium Frame
2013 Fox Talas 29 120 CTD FIT 
Cane Creek Headset
2012 M785 Brakes 160 Rotors F/R
2012 X9 Right Shifter
2012 X9 Small RD
MRP Lopes SL
M785 XT Crank
HBC 32T Chainring
Black SS Chaingring Bolts
Specialized Phenom Saddle
Thomson Seatpost 367mm
Thomson Seat Clamp
ESI Chunky Grips 
Shimano XT M771 10 Speed 11-34 Cassette
SRAM PC-1051 Chain
Lizard Skin Chainstay Protector
Thomson 70mm Stem
East EC70 Carbon Handlebars
Hope Pro II/ Arch EX Wheelset
Continental Mountain King 29 x 2.2 RTR (tubeless)
Crampon Ultimate Pedals


----------



## mtlatham (Oct 16, 2011)

*Yelli Screamy*

Yelli Screamy - Small Frame
RockShox Revelation RL fork - set at 130mm
Cane Creek 40 headset
Easton Havoc stem - 50mm 
Easton EC70 CNT MonkeyLite XC bars - 685mm
ODI Rogue lock-on grips
Avid BB7 Brakes with 160mm HS1 rotors and Titanium Speed Dial 7 levers
Jagwire Ripcord brake and shifter cables - Rose Thorn
Shimano XT shifter
Shimano XT rear derailleur
Shimano SLX 10 speed cassette
Truvativ Holzfeller OCT 1.1 crankset with RaceFace 36t chainring and Blackspire chainguide
Wellgo B103 pedals
KMC Pink Lady X10SL Limited Edition chain
Crank Brothers Cobalt 2 seatpost - 350mm w/20mm setback
WTB Rocket V Racer saddle
Stans Crest rims on Hope Pro2 Evo hubs w/20mm axle in front
Panaracer Rampage tires (tubeless)- 2.35"
26.6 pounds

(That's me on the left. My son's riding a Santa Cruz Chameleon)


----------



## mtlatham (Oct 16, 2011)

*Yelli Screamy can pump*

Spent 3 days training with Lee McCormack from leelikesbikes.com at Valmont. He showed me how I should ride my bike on the two pump tracks there. 
The Yelli can definitely pump and jump!

Yelli Screamy on pump tracks


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Still bloody stuck in customs


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Anyone running a 50mm stem on their yelli with a 140mm fork?

How is the handling?

I'm thiking about climbing mainly...after my first ride with the yelli , i find the the front end very easy to lift (60mm stem negativ rise )i'm just worry that climbing will be a problem with a 50mm stem?( i have a very low stack one with no rise i'm looking at)
I coud not ride any climb yet as theres not any around my house....


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> Anyone running a 50mm stem on their yelli with a 140mm fork?
> 
> How is the handling?


Yup. Handles just fine, and climbs aren't an issue. Sure it's easy to lift the front, but that doesn't mean you can't keep the front planted on the climbs if you keep your weight positioned accordingly. I've done both 2,800' sustained climbs and short, steep punchy climbs on mine.

The climbing isn't as scalpel-like as a steeper, shorter XC hardtail, but that's no surprise. The Yelli's ride is worth it, IMO.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

evasive said:


> Yup. Handles just fine, and climbs aren't an issue. Sure it's easy to lift the front, but that doesn't mean you can't keep the front planted on the climbs if you keep your weight positioned accordingly. I've done both 2,800' sustained climbs and short, steep punchy climbs on mine.
> 
> The climbing isn't as scalpel-like as a steeper, shorter XC hardtail, but that's no surprise. The Yelli's ride is worth it, IMO.


Sound good,
Thanks


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Sure. Whether you enjoy that handling comes down to personal preference, but I dig it.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> Anyone running a 50mm stem on their yelli with a 140mm fork?
> 
> How is the handling?
> 
> ...


I have a 60mm stem, 31" bar and 140mm fork on my XL Yelli Screamy. Climbs better than my other three mtn bikes. Handles great. It's my favorite bike to ride. I have clipped the bars twice, hurting myself pretty good each time. Don't do that.

(Two are FS bikes, so naturally they don't climb quite as nice, but only having one front ring on the YS makes climbing different. The third is a 28lb SS with 28" bars. Climbing is not it's forté.)

Morgan


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Thanks for those replies,

I've settle for a 50mm stem With a very low stack and a drop, my tests were good with the 60mm reversed stem Last night so i think that will work fine.
I should receive my part next week... Will be a trick setup, pics to come.

In the meanime i will run the crazy heavy 60mm dh stem.


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

morganfletcher said:


> I have a 60mm stem, 31" bar and 140mm fork on my XL Yelli Screamy. Climbs better than my other three mtn bikes. Handles great. It's my favorite bike to ride. I have clipped the bars twice, hurting myself pretty good each time. Don't do that.
> 
> (Two are FS bikes, so naturally they don't climb quite as nice, but only having one front ring on the YS makes climbing different. The third is a 28lb SS with 28" bars. Climbing is not it's forté.)
> 
> Morgan


How tall are you Morgan ?


----------



## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

pdqmach26 said:


> Hey, I can top this:
> Ordered a new Yelli on July 17, almost 2 weeks ago. Figured I would get it by last weekend. Utah to Socal is only 2 or 3 days shipping. Monday no frame, send 3 emails, no response. Great???? Tuesday nothing. Boy this is good customer service. I could have bought 3 different frames that were for sale used, but elected to go new because I thought I could get it in a timely manner. Called on Wednesday, spoke with Chris and he says no worries, he has been out of town and I will have the frame before the weekend. Ok this is looking good now! I have 4 days off, all the parts so I will build it and ride this weekend. Wrong, wait all day today, UPS comes and goes no frame. After many e mails, again some never answered, the frame is still in Utah and was never shipped. Tracking number given to me today by Gollub, does not work. POOR customer service and think twice before ordering from these guys.
> 
> I have the finances to purchase any bike no matter what the cost, so this was not a choice of buying a cheap. I bought it do to great reviews and good service as exemplified on this thread, but now I am extremely PISSED!!


That sucks. Sorry to hear. Got mine just 3 days after my order. Shipped from Oregon, though, which is where I thought they had all of their frames stored. Maybe that's changed now. Hope it all works out. These are awesome frames.


----------



## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Yes- post 2000!
Thanks for the love of the YELLI Screamy.

Does anyone know where the name came from?


----------



## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

cSquared said:


> ...Does anyone know where the name came from?


Named after one of the loud mouths at Niner.

What do I get?


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

New limited "Black Chrome" 
get one while you can


----------



## jncarpenter (Dec 20, 2003)

Hawt!


----------



## nitrousjunky (May 12, 2006)

Oh those are sharp!!!


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

tartosuc said:


> Anyone running a 50mm stem on their yelli with a 140mm fork?
> 
> How is the handling?


My XL has a 140mm Revelation on the front with 50mm thomson stem and 730mm raceface bars. I don't run any spacers under the stem.
My front end never lifts during standing climbs, and as long as my weight it forward while sitting to climb it's not too bad either.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Here's another black chrome pic from their FB. Sweeeeeet.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

That black chrome is f*cking deadly hot.


----------



## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

I have been having this little fantasy as of late:

Yelli + Salsa Beargrease fork + Surly Knard/Rabbit Hole front


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

That looks so much better than the semi-polished raw one. 

I'm loving the black chrome!!!


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Does anyone know where the name came from?


Ex girlfriend ? 



eurospek said:


> That looks so much better than the semi-polished raw one.
> 
> I'm loving the black chrome!!!


I keep having this stupid thought that I want one of the painted neon green ones. Now I want the black chrome too. What the hell am I going to do with 3 yellis ? 

Looks like the black chrome is semi polished with a tinted clear, so I could possibly make mine like that at some point.


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

92gli said:


> Ex girlfriend ?
> 
> I keep having this stupid thought that I want one of the painted neon green ones. Now I want the black chrome too. What the hell am I going to do with 3 yellis ?
> 
> Looks like the black chrome is semi polished with a tinted clear, so I could possibly make mine like that at some point.


single speed yelli
geared yelli
rigid yelli with slicks for the road
or 
super light yelli for racing


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

coke said:


> single speed yelli
> geared yelli
> rigid yelli with slicks for the road
> or
> super light yelli for racing


Ha.

- Yelli chopper with a motorcycle front fork, banana seat and sissy bar. Hmmm... might flip over and end up on my back.
- Yelli with rickshaw trailer (Could take to atlantic city and make some money on the boardwalk.)


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Has anyone on here resprayed their Yelli? Just wondering about getting my purple one powdercoated. Purple just doesn't do it for me.


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Bunzl said:


> Has anyone on here resprayed their Yelli? Just wondering about getting my purple one powdercoated. Purple just doesn't do it for me.


Then rub it off with wear n tear dear boy


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Bunzl said:


> Has anyone on here resprayed their Yelli? Just wondering about getting my purple one powdercoated. Purple just doesn't do it for me.


Correct me if I'm wrong but powdercoating an anodized frame isn't as easy as usual powdercoating stuff.


----------



## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Bunzl said:


> Has anyone on here resprayed their Yelli? Just wondering about getting my purple one powdercoated. Purple just doesn't do it for me.


I think it would be cool to dip a frame. A friend of mine does a lot of guns and can put just about any pattern you'd want on them. Skulls would look nice on a yelli. It's also very durable.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I'm thinking of taking all the print off my bike. Has anyone else tried the nail polish remover to take off the decals on the black ano finish? I don't want to damage the anodization at all.


----------



## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

you can remove the anodizing...any anodizer can do this, but since a frame is relatively big it would be a pain and probably not worth the time or $$


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JoshM said:


> I'm thinking of taking all the print off my bike. Has anyone else tried the nail polish remover to take off the decals on the black ano finish? I don't want to damage the anodization at all.


I doubt you will do any damage to the anodize with the acetone nail polish remover. Think of the graphics as silk screen graphics on a tee. They are over the tee and not part of the finish.

Try a small test area first if hesitant, but I would at least leave the Canfield Brothers on the downtube. Get rid of the top tube graphics.


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Looks like i'll have to learn to love her purple ways. That black chrome looks lovely though.


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

i've ALMOST got mine.. lol...

it's now about to be released from customs... 

Sadly, i think this means i won't have it for building at the weekend.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Bunzl said:


> Looks like i'll have to learn to love her purple ways. That black chrome looks lovely though.


As much as I like the black chrome, I still love my purple Yelli. From today's lunch break:


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Now for some reason I think yours looks really good. I'm thinking that throwing some monetary love at her could change my opinion


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Thanks. The bar really ties the room together. You can see the problem with white grips, though...


----------



## Winky (Jan 12, 2004)

*The Man Trip*

Hello, I've followed this thread since the beginning and haven't contributed much...so I thought I'd post a few pics of my Yelli. I was fortunate enough to spend a couple of weeks riding and living out of the truck. Here are a hand full of pics of the Yelli from the "Man Trip". Enjoy!!

After sampling many different types of trails during the Man Trip I was able to confirm that THIS BIKE RIPS!!!

Happy Trails,
Winky

P.S. Please forgive the Thudbuster, I herniated a disc 5 weeks before leaving on this trip so I took the Thudbuster off of my commuter/do it all Karate Monkey to take the edge off. I also decided that I really need a dropper post for the Yelli. The Kronolog is on the way.

P.P.S. I suck at posting pics so I don't know how to put the headings above the pics in the post, sorry.

Klondike Bluffs Area (Moab) Pics 1 & 2

The Whole Enchalada (Moab) Pics 3 & 4

The Monarch Crest Trail (Salida, CO) Pic 5


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

weeksy950 said:


> How tall are you Morgan ?


6'2".

Morgan


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

morganfletcher said:


> 6'2".
> 
> Morgan


Thanks chap. I'm looking forward to getting mine built later tonight, will update thread etc


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

So, my Yelli only has 1 set of cable mounts on the headtube. I need to run 2 cables there, 1 for gears, 1 for rear brake. How do you guys do it under these circumstances?


----------



## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Just bunch them together and use a single zip tie. I have three in there with my reverb and it works (and looks) fine.

And i presume you mean toptube :thumbsup:


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

yeah just zip them all together, if you have 3 one in the guide and one each side. Run full length housings for the gear cables -- its better if you ride in wet/muddy conditions anyhow


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Cheers lads... Almost finished the build... just need a new stem (ordered wrong one) and steerer stem cutting.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Here's a first pics of my yelli.

the stem is the last part i'm still wating for.

first real ride is after work today...can't wait to finish my day!


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Spent some time building the Yelli this evening. It's now 100% built, ridden and tested.

Needed some assistance with the Star Nut and the trimming of the steerer, so called one of the LBS's who's now firmly at the top of my preferred supplier/LBS list... Brilliant service, fitted me in at a seconds notice, dropping the other jobs. I forgot to take my headset spacers (oops) and top cap, which he threw in for nothing. (Although i will fit my own and take his back of course. Cut the steerer, sorted the SFN and charged me £7.50. I gave him a tenner and a bottle of Sprite 

Sadly, the story doesn't quite end here... the Stem i bought was totally the wrong stem LOL. It has a 1.5" steerer, not a 1 1/8". So didn't fit. That's now on the way back to Chain Reaction for a refund and a new one is winging it's way to me today. I also didn't have a 180 front mount brake adaptor. Happily the Giant had both items and was butchered temporarily for the job 

Lastly, the headset lower isn't quite right... no matter what i do there a small amount of play from the headset and a definite 'clunk' when you bounce the bike etc. So, blokey has ordered me in a Hope lower headset to get thrown in there next week as i'm away for the rest of the week/weekend. Bike can still be ridden and tested though of course.

First impressions i wouldn't like to offer currently as i've only ridden to the park with my wee boy. However the bike feels/rides/runs and goes fine up to now. It's a chunk bigger than my Giant, but partly as i'm running the 100mm stem from the Giant on it, which i'll be dropping back to the 50mm which should arrive tomorrow. That said, the size isn't off-putting at all.. it's just a bigger bike... but not too big that it's daunting to me etc. 
I'll get out on some trails and some climbs tomorrow to give it a proper testing.

No pics today as it's not finished in my eyes until it gets the right stem


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

cSquared said:


> Does anyone know where the name came from?


No. Where does it come from?

Morgan


----------



## fastrails (Jan 28, 2010)

nice!


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Well, my first trail ride tonite with the yelli. Interresting one.

Started ok, with a big climb, bike handles well, i can feel the difference in acceleration compared to my 26er am bike...i realized i'm not used to hardtails anymore! You feel every bump!

Going down the rocky technical trail, i was pleaseantly surprised how well the bike rolled over rocks and handles in general.

My main problem was with my feet getting hit by the frontwheel on tight turns. Thats a big turn off for me....

Second climb, i shift to the granny gear, the chain somhow came up and got stuck between the chainstay and the cranks..two twisted links and i could not move the cranks anymore...went back to he car.

So far i'm not crazy impressed, maybe it was the fact that i was tired from my day, or the few teck problems...i'll ride it more in the next few weeks to see.


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> Well, my first trail ride tonite with the yelli. Interresting one.
> 
> Started ok, with a big climb, bike handles well, i can feel the difference in acceleration compared to my 26er am bike...i realized i'm not used to hardtails anymore! You feel every bump!
> 
> ...


Couple of things:
How tall are you?
What size frame?
What is your shoe size?
Are you running your cleats too far back?

Thx

Sent from my daggum phone because I have no life.


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I found that my Yelli skipped over bumps compared to my previous, more XC hardtail, which slammed into them. Sounds odd, but maybe the shorter rear end lends itself to that feeling.

I have had some chain suck problems, but that came down to a combination of overdue drivetrain maintenance and really sloppy trails. I've never had any toe rub issues. I didn't see what headset you decided on - are you running a negative offset headset? It kinda looks like it, but I can't tell for sure.

I hope you're able to sort out those issues and appreciate the Yelli for the ride it offers.


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

tartosuc said:


> My main problem was with my feet getting hit by the frontwheel on tight turns. Thats a big turn off for me.....


HAte to sound harsh mate, but that's likely to be your fault, not the bikes. You're riding with your feet too far forward on the pedals.

Either that or you're called Bobo the great and entertain children as your day job and have a car with doors that fly off


----------



## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

tartosuc said:


> Well, my first trail ride tonite with the yelli. Interresting one.
> 
> Started ok, with a big climb, bike handles well, i can feel the difference in acceleration compared to my 26er am bike...i realized i'm not used to hardtails anymore! You feel every bump!
> 
> ...


Yellis do not like chain suck, I have destroyed a number of chains on mine: :madman:
Top tips:
If you are using a new chain remove the factory lube and relube, that will help against suck.
Try to run your chain as short as possible
Keep an eye on your chain rings and time your front shifting well.
Get one of these or some thing similar
Accessoires

See my mod  http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/bionicon-c-guide-804311.html

And don't ride on your heels WTF like how big are your feet?????


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Some pics of the Yelli.

Still waiting for stem to arrive... but this is how it will look.

29lb 0.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

chelboed said:


> Couple of things:
> How tall are you?
> What size frame?
> What is your shoe size?
> ...


I'm 5'10"
Large frame
Shoe size 10.5
Flat pedals....normal flat pedal foot position ...


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Just been out for an hour on it. First real test-ride.

Ride was purely XC, but that's the majority of my riding anyway.

Doing some back to back measuring with the Giant XTC29 i've found that they're now very very close in actual measurments for the ETT, BB>seat etc. The Yelli however FEELS a lot bigger. Not really sure why. the 50mm stem on the Yelli has brought it down almost to the size of the Medium Giant with a 90mm stem. 

The one MAJOR plus though is the BB height of the Yelli compared to the Giant. I've got one particular tight XC trail by my house which was great on the Bionicon but it's rubbish on the Giant due to pedal strikes. Rode it today and no pedal strikes at all, so that's REALLY pleasing to me.

Again, with the measuring, the seatpost is laid back a good 3-4deg compared to the Giant and the Forks are much slacker, this gives the Yelli about 3-4" extra overall wheelbase. Which boy can you notice at times on the tight twisty stuff, the Giant is more flickable at the moment and i got caught out on a couple of corners running a little wide on the Yelli.

The next part where the Yelli excells is in speed. I seemed to be 1 gear higher most sections today, even though both bikes are running the same gearing ratios, both 32T front. Same cassette fitted to both. The flat/downhill speed of the Yelli is fantastic, the thing cracks on and when you hit the downhills, you have to hang on because it picks up speed brilliantly.

The Yelli powers up hills standing really nicely, even seems to climb better sitting down. The perception of less fatigue was something i noticed a few times.

Overall, i think i'm going to end up with a bit of a dilema, despite them both being markedly different, they're also distinctly simillar. There's not THAT much difference between the 2 bikes for me to say "well, i'd use this one for XYZ and that one for ABC" So i see the longer term picture that only one of the bikes will remain in the stable long term.

It needs more testing before i begin to make that sort of decision though.


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

weeksy950 said:


> HAte to sound harsh mate, but that's likely to be your fault, not the bikes. You're riding with your feet too far forward on the pedals.


What a stupid comment.
I've been riding mtb for 30 years, i've been riding flat pedals for the last 8 years..i never ever had a bike giving me that problem ever..my foot position is normal for flat pedal riding.


----------



## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

weeksy950 said:


> ...Doing some back to back measuring with the Giant XTC29 i've found that they're now very very close in actual measurments for the ETT, BB>seat etc. The Yelli however FEELS a lot bigger...





weeksy950 said:


> ...Overall, i think i'm going to end up with a bit of a dilema, despite them both being markedly different, they're also distinctly simillar.


Interested in hearing more on this comparison, as I may be switching from an XTC to a YS.

In the meantime, can you provide details on the BB height and the handlebar height for both of your rides? Thanks!


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> I'm 5'10"
> Large frame
> Shoe size 10.5
> Flat pedals....normal flat pedal foot position ...


Odd. I'm 6'3" on a L, with size 12 shoes and have never had toe rub with my Yelli (and a 140mm fork).

You've mentioned "normal foot position" for flat pedals a couple of times. I assume that you mean the ball of your foot is centered on the pedal?


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

evasive said:


> Odd. I'm 6'3" on a L, with size 12 shoes and have never had toe rub with my Yelli (and a 140mm fork).
> 
> You've mentioned "normal foot position" for flat pedals a couple of times. I assume that you mean the ball of your foot is centered on the pedal?


Of course centered on the pedals, But not on the ball of the foot, thats for clipless pedals...flat pedals require a foot position toward the arch of the foot....
Shoe, Pedal and Foot Placement Tips for Flat Pedals on Vimeo

I'll be riding more of the bike this weekend to evaluate that a little more...

That said it happens on the very tight stuff when you need to turn more than usualll, one of my regular trail is like that..stilll it never happen to me on my other bikes... 
I will visually compare with my other bikes tonite to see.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

weeksy950 said:


> Just been out for an hour on it. First real test-ride.
> 
> Ride was purely XC, but that's the majority of my riding anyway.
> 
> ...


That's one advantage with using travel adjust forks, 2 bikes in one.


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

tartosuc said:


> Of course centered on the pedals.
> 
> I'll be riding more of the bike this weekend to evaluate that a little more...
> 
> ...


Surely you should be able to just put your foot on the crank at the horizontal position, hold the rear brake and turn the bars through the full rotation to see if they hit. If not then your foot is bouncing forward on the pedal. If they do well then i guess that is bad design. Would be strange though as the yelli has a pretty long reach measurement relative to other manufacturers and a slack head angle, both of which should push the front wheel further away than a lot of other 29ers.


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## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

Just ordered a Yelli Screamer! Last one in Germany. Yay. 
So, I was just wondering what forks I should run ? 100/120/140?
Are Stans Flow overkill for the bike or can i get away with arches ?
This is being built up as my only mtb...


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

tartosuc said:


> Here's a first pics of my yelli.
> 
> the stem is the last part i'm still wating for.
> 
> first real ride is after work today...can't wait to finish my day!


I am not sure if it is the angle of the pic or what, but your HTA looks steeper than is should.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I am not sure if it is the angle of the pic or what, but your HTA looks steeper than is should.


Its the angle of the picture...i know it look funky.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

antonio said:


> Interested in hearing more on this comparison, as I may be switching from an XTC to a YS.
> 
> In the meantime, can you provide details on the BB height and the handlebar height for both of your rides? Thanks!


Will do over the weekend mate, bikes are away and we're having BBQ currently sorry.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Little video of me riding my local trail here in Ohio


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

^^^ nice vid jonesy


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

*Finally got my Yelli Screamy built!*

After a few weeks of waiting for parts I have finally built up my Yelli Screamy. I have had the opportunity to ride it a few times, and it is amazing. I am used to riding FS bikes and this is the first hardtail to blow me away. Still need to make a few adjustments here and there but overall a great bike.

Build:
XL Yelli Screamy
Canfield Wheels
Fox Float 120
X9 shifters and rear derailleur
XT Direct mount front derailleur
2x10 Shimano deore crankset 22/32/bash
Avid Elixir 9 brakes
Syncross stem
Specialized bars and seat post (left over from other bike)
Still testing tires out
Egg Beater pedals

Thanks for taking a look!


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## ziprace (Apr 30, 2009)

morganfletcher said:


> No. Where does it come from?
> 
> Morgan


The answer is on the Canfield website.


----------



## MyMilkExpired (Nov 1, 2010)

evasive said:


> Here's another black chrome pic from their FB. Sweeeeeet.


Totally quote worthy. Thats sex right there...:thumbsup:


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

My new addition:


IMG_0307 by dbozman1173, on Flickr


IMG_0306 by dbozman1173, on Flickr


IMG_0305 by dbozman1173, on Flickr


IMG_0303 by dbozman1173, on Flickr

Haven't owned a geared, bigger travel HT 29er in awhile and not sure how it's going to be on our technical AZ chunk. But, I liked the specs of the frame and decided to give it a shot.

The guys at Canfield (particularly Sean) have been great. When I received the frame, the box said "raw" instead of "black chrome." I looked at the frame and thought I'd received raw. Sean offered to do whatever was necessary to get me the correct frame. After further research and compared to online photos of raw, it appears I did in fact receive the correct black chrome frame.

Will update further as the build progresses.


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## Popopedler (Jun 29, 2012)

/Users/kyne13/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2012/08/10/20120810-141403/IMG_1846./Users/kyne13/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2012/08/10/20120810-141403/IMG_1847.jpg
Finally put together!


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## Popopedler (Jun 29, 2012)

The green Yelli


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Fun ride


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

*Here is my 2nd YS!*

Built up w/ a mess of parts in the spare parts bin!


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Loving the stealthy all black theme. Also nice touch removing the top tube graphics. What did you use to get them off? :thumbsup:


----------



## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Thanks Euro,

Used nail polish remover w/ a cotton towel. For others that might ask, the anodized finish was not harmed in any way. Still looks perfect.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Well the bike now has a new HOPE headset, which is excellent. All at a great price at my new LBS, supplied, fitted, setup... top job.

Swapped out the blue temporary cable ties for some back ones... checked it all and ready to ride as soon as the monsoon we're in the middle of has passed.


----------



## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

antonio said:


> Interested in hearing more on this comparison, as I may be switching from an XTC to a YS.
> 
> In the meantime, can you provide details on the BB height and the handlebar height for both of your rides? Thanks!


BB Height
Yelli, XL running 2.35 Hans Dampf 29.9cm from bottom of frame to floor
XTC29 Medium,running a 2.2 Maxxis Aspen 28.5cm

Handlebars height measured from bottom of bars adjacent to stem
Yelli 103cm
XTC 101cm

The Yelli could crop to about 99cm with spacer removal, the Giant to about the same. I'll be working and testing overall positions over the coming weeks.


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## 71 10-7 (Nov 8, 2004)

Recently purchased a yelli frame and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. Gonna try and set it up as a 3X9 but wondering if I'll still have room for a Ardent 2.25 rear? Will I get tire rub on the XT front D?


----------



## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

71 10-7 said:


> Recently purchased a yelli frame and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. Gonna try and set it up as a 3X9 but wondering if I'll still have room for a Ardent 2.25 rear? Will I get tire rub on the XT front D?


My thoughts are that you should have plenty of room using a 2.25 rear tire. If you need a little extra wiggle room you can always cut off the down pull arm from the derailleur. I use a Sram front derailleur and a Hans Dampf 2.35 rear tire. I did, however, put the Dremil to the derailleur to give me the clearance I required to run that tire. I presently run a 2x10 which works perfectly with no issues at all in the wet or the dry. My only concern with the 3x9 would be the chain line when on big gear up front and big gear down back due to the short chainstays; or, I guess, if your conscious of your shifting you can always avoid that combination. Maybe someone who is running that transmission can chime in their thoughts. Enjoy your Yelli.


----------



## 71 10-7 (Nov 8, 2004)

gulljammer said:


> My thoughts are that you should have plenty of room using a 2.25 rear tire. If you need a little extra wiggle room you can always cut off the down pull arm from the derailleur. I use a Sram front derailleur and a Hans Dampf 2.35 rear tire. I did, however, put the Dremil to the derailleur to give me the clearance I required to run that tire. I presently run a 2x10 which works perfectly with no issues at all in the wet or the dry. My only concern with the 3x9 would be the chain line when on big gear up front and big gear down back due to the short chainstays; or, I guess, if your conscious of your shifting you can always avoid that combination. Maybe someone who is running that transmission can chime in their thoughts. Enjoy your Yelli.


Thanks for the info. Perhaps I need to do some research on which Front D has the smallest footprint? gulljammer, out of curiosity what is ur crank set up for the 2X9? Someone should start a thread for tire/crank/front d setups that work on the yelli???


----------



## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

71 10-7 said:


> Thanks for the info. Perhaps I need to do some research on which Front D has the smallest footprint? gulljammer, out of curiosity what is ur crank set up for the 2X9? Someone should start a thread for tire/crank/front d setups that work on the yelli???


I use a 2x10 set up which consist of a Shimano triple ring crank (24-32-42) but I removed the outer 42 ring and replaced it with a bash guard. In the back I use a 12-36 cassette with a Sram medium cage derailleur. I have read of other Yelli riders using chain guides maybe to avoid chain suck but I believe if your chain is sized correctly chain suck will not be an issue. I have ridden my Yelli exclusively for the last few months in all conditions with no transmission issues at all.

I'm not 100% sure since I did modify my Sram front derailleur, but I think that Sram has the smaller foot print when compared to a Shimano front derailleur.


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## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

Has any one run Stans crests on the yelli or are flows better for peace of mind?


----------



## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

My Arch EX wheel set with Hope hubs should be here Wednesday. Once they come in I can start putting things together. .


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

kingdom said:


> Has any one run Stans crests on the yelli or are flows better for peace of mind?


There isn't a correlation between the frame and rim choice so much as there's a correlation between riding style and rim choice. Crest rims are very light. They will build into wheels that are light, and accelerate quickly. They will also be relatively flexy, and won't accept big hits or side loads. If you are an xc style of rider, rarely leave the ground and don't go very fast over very rough terrain, you might like the Crests. The Flow rims are stouter, but more importantly I think, are wider. A wide rim like the Flows gives you a larger tire volume, which means a bigger, rounder tire profile. Coupled with a large-volume tire, you can achieve lower tire pressure with a rim like the Flow. They'll make stiffer wheels, too. Bigger, heavier tires and rims are great for people who like to be in the air with their bike, ride very fast across rough terrain, and descend as fast as they can. Arch rims would be somewhere in the middle.

If you are not sure what your riding style might be, aren't over 200lbs, and are thinking of just durability, go Arch. Canfield Brother's wheels use a rim that looks to be about the same profile as the Arch, to give you an idea.

I have Flows on three bikes, including the Yelli Screamy. I have a set of Arches on a fourth bike, and I built my wife's new mtn bike with Crests. Horses for courses.

Morgan


----------



## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

Mines just arrived from the continent! Cant wait to build her up. 
Decided on flows instead of crests. Im going to build it up in a stealthy theme.

Sorry about the poor BB photos..


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

kingdom said:


> Mines just arrived from the continent! Cant wait to build her up.
> Decided on flows instead of crests. Im going to build it up in a stealthy theme.


Can't wait to see it.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

weeksy950 said:


> BB Height
> Yelli, XL running 2.35 Hans Dampf 29.9cm from bottom of frame to floor
> XTC29 Medium,running a 2.2 Maxxis Aspen 28.5cm
> 
> ...


Bloody hell that was quick??????????????????

Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy 29er mountain bike. 29. Size XL | eBay


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Yelli stoke! My lame attempt at getting my 200 lb self and my XL Yelli off the ground






Medina Reagan from jeff watson on Vimeo.

Then there's this...






Mountain biking at Brady's Run Park, PA from jeff watson on Vimeo.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

wobbem said:


> Bloody hell that was quick??????????????????
> 
> Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy 29er mountain bike. 29. Size XL | eBay


Agreed mate, i rode it 3 times, did about 50 miles on it and decided it was too big. Much as the concept of the bike appealed, if it doesn't fit, it doesn't stay.

I'd expect someone who preferred bikes on the large side may fit it better at my height, but i generally run smaller bikes.

There's also the fact that for the riding i do, there's VERY little between the Yelli and the Giant XTC29.

Simple fact is, i'll make more money back on the Yelli, i hope to clear pretty much what it cost to build and import it. Although not all at a guess.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Just had my LBS build her up yesterday, Hopefully I can take her out on her maiden voyage today after work:

Canfield Brothers Medium Frame
2013 Fox Talas 29 120 CTD FIT 
Carbon Spacers 
Cane Creek 40 Headset
2012 Shimano XT M785 Brakes 160 F/R Rotors
2012 X9 Right Shifter
2012 X9 Small RD
MRP Lopes SL Chain Guide
Shimano XT M785 Crank
HBC 32T Chainring
Black SS Chaingring Bolts
Specialized Phenom Saddle
Thomson Seatpost
Thomson Seat Clamp
ESI Chunky Grips 
Shimano XT M771 10 Speed 11-34
SRAM PC-1051 Chain
Lizard Skin Chainstay Protector
Thomson 70mm Stem
East EC70 Carbon Handlebars
Hope Pro II EVO/Arch EX Wheelset
Continental Mountain King 29 x 2.2 RTR
Salsa Rear Skewer
Crampon Ultimate Pedals
Weight 26lbs with tubes


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Nice build. 

A couple things look odd - Why are there avid cps washers on your rear brake ? One of the benefits of shimano brakes is not having to deal with those. The brake hoses should be running on the inside of the fork leg and seatstay. 

Is the cassette on all the way ? the gap looks weird but I've never had a hope hub so that may be normal.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

thanks ^^^

Not sure about the Avid washers and the way the hoses were ran but i'll run it by the LBS.

I'll double check the cassette when I get home and make sure its all the way in before I go for a ride.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Looked at the pics again and see from the track on the rear disc that the caliper is too high. Washers need to come out and your braking will be better.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

I did notice the braking wasn't as firm as my other set of XT brakes so that's good to know. Thanks.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

08hardrockmiami said:


> thanks ^^^
> 
> Not sure about the Avid washers and the way the hoses were ran but i'll run it by the LBS.
> 
> I'll double check the cassette when I get home and make sure its all the way in before I go for a ride.


I had to add spacers to the rear caliper on my Yelli, though not by the thickness of CPS washers. Maybe half that thick. Without them, the rotor was bottomed against the caliper body.

The hoses inside/outside the leg/frame are a personal thing. I've never been happy with the amount of bend at the banjo that inside routing gave me on my bikes, so they've always been on the outside.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

weeksy950 said:


> Agreed mate, i rode it 3 times, did about 50 miles on it and decided it was too big. Much as the concept of the bike appealed, if it doesn't fit, it doesn't stay.
> 
> I'd expect someone who preferred bikes on the large side may fit it better at my height, but i generally run smaller bikes.
> 
> ...


Fair enough, How tall are you?


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

car_nut said:


> The hoses inside/outside the leg/frame are a personal thing.


It's not a personal thing at all. It's the standard of the universe. You run them on the inside so they don't get pinched if your bike falls on something or gets hit by something. And so they don't get snagged by a branch or whatever.

I also don't like when a RD cable doesn't get routed around the head tube, but that_ is _personal.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Can you post a pic of how it should be routed?


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## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

So, build almost done now. Pretty happy with how its turned out. Will weigh a touch over 25 lbs, which seems very reasonable.

Deciding whether to remove the logos, stickers and decals to make it fully stealth or leave it as is..


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Looks like a fun build! Consider routing your brake hoses inside the fork leg and seat stay; can't get ripped off by branches that way.

Rode mine yesterday, cleaned a rooty drop I haven't tried in years. (Top of Tenderfoot, Mt. Tamalpais, Marin, California)

Morgan


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Rode mine yesterday, too. Really interesting riding a hardtail on Arizona chunk.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Getting close to a full year on mine. Not once have I pondered my next frame or lusted after something different.

I was at White Clay in delaware saturday. Was laughing to myself again while ripping through the fast sections. There's a few spots that have S curves with slight berms. The bike whispers to me to stay off the brakes and just use my arms and hips to drive through them. When the dirt is sticky the grip seems impossible. I've had a few errors where I went in a little _too_ hot and lost the front wheel but its so fun.


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## 08hardrockmiami (Jan 28, 2011)

Went tubeless yesterday. took me less than 10 minutes and pumped right up using a floor pump.

Waiting on Tropical Storm Issac to let off the rain so I can ride!


----------



## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

08hardrockmiami said:


> Can you post a pic of how it should be routed?


Not a Yelli but since you asked :thumbsup:


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've been running Panaracer Rampages front and rear on my Yelli for the entire season now.
2.35 and set up tubeless. My rear is ready for replacement, but my front is still going strong.

I'm thinking of giving the Ardent a try. Looking to other Yelli owners for some recommendations as well.
I ride lots of roots, rocks and general rough conditions. There is very little buff singletrack where I ride, so I need something that is predictable and gives decent amount of rear braking control, not skidding at the slightest touch of the rear brake. Think of BC area riding, squamish, pemberton, etc. With about 2500' less feet of elevation and slightly drier.


----------



## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

I'm running an Ardent 2.25 up front, and ignitor 2.1 in the rear. Works good for SoCal conditions, have never had traction issues over the chunky stuff or steeps. But will move to a rear with more traction for technical climbing in the dry loose stuff.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

JoshM said:


> I've been running Panaracer Rampages front and rear on my Yelli for the entire season now.
> 2.35 and set up tubeless. My rear is ready for replacement, but my front is still going strong.
> 
> I'm thinking of giving the Ardent a try. Looking to other Yelli owners for some recommendations as well.
> I ride lots of roots, rocks and general rough conditions. There is very little buff singletrack where I ride, so I need something that is predictable and gives decent amount of rear braking control, not skidding at the slightest touch of the rear brake. Think of BC area riding, squamish, pemberton, etc. With about 2500' less feet of elevation and slightly drier.


Ardent 2.4 front and rear here, on Flows, tubeless, 26-28 psi, 220lb rider. Rear got a stick puncture, plugged it with a Genuine Innovations tire plug maybe 30 hours of riding ago, haven't lost any air pressure since. (Stans sealant is in there, too.)

Just got a pair of the Hans Dampf 2.35 Schwalbe 29er tires, will try them on a bike at some point, but I love the Ardents. They excel in rocky, rough conditions. Just had them in the high desert lava rock of Bend, OR and surroundings (McKenzie River Trail) for a week, and a few trips to Downieville (granite and igneous) this summer.

I'm like a broken record tho, search 'morganfletcher ardent' and you'll see.

Have the Rampage 2.35s on Flows on my SS, like the Ardents better.

Morgan


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

latest version of my yelli...


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

92gli said:


> It's not a personal thing at all. It's the standard of the universe. You run them on the inside so they don't get pinched if your bike falls on something or gets hit by something. And so they don't get snagged by a branch or whatever.
> 
> I also don't like when a RD cable doesn't get routed around the head tube, but that_ is _personal.


Funny, but if you look at the way Canfield themselves set up their demo Yellis the rear break was on the outside.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Snapped a pic of my bike after a ride a few days ago.
The Yelli has been seeing a lot of singletrack this season and has held up like a champ the entire time. :thumbsup:


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Has anyone set up a Yelli with a F29 G2 100mm with 51mm offset, or have an opinion on whether the Yelli would ride well with that fork?


----------



## orlowskij (Sep 20, 2006)

1 Wasabi Green Yelli on the way. And props to Canfield for the fast email responses.


----------



## orlowskij (Sep 20, 2006)

Only a few more shipments to arrive.


----------



## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

People from UK/EU: Selling my 3 week old Yelli Screamy frame. Ridden a hand full of times. Perfect condition. Black/medium with hope headset and seat clamp. Looking for £600 posted with all the parts.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

cjsb said:


> Has anyone set up a Yelli with a F29 G2 100mm with 51mm offset, or have an opinion on whether the Yelli would ride well with that fork?


I had mine set up briefly like this -- handling was spot on, but it was a QR9mm fork and steering was not as precise as with RS Reba at 120mm with 20mm through-axle which is what I am running at the moment. I had a zero-stack bottom headset race and was getting a few pedal strikes with the fox at 100mm. Now with 120mm rebas no pedal strikes.

I like a fast steering bike -- the foxes are back at 80mm and back on my Salsa Mamasita. But I still find the handling of the Yelli totally great -- I think the short rear end makes are fair difference and makes up for a slacker head angles, especially when you get the hang of kicking the back out!

There are some pics here with fox at 100mm and Rebas at 120mm:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02#

For reference, here is the Salsa:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/Mamasita

cheers,
pat


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

orlowskij said:


> Only a few more shipments to arrive.


Looks awesome!


----------



## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

I went with black chrome, but the Wasabi Green was a very, very close second.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

gold was the only ano. one they had left, but whatever the colour, they all ride great!


----------



## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Got a new toy last night. Going up to 120 after riding it for a year at 100.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

On the verge of ordering a YS, but need to use and existing fork to keep the cost down. Does anyone know minimum steerer tube length for the frame?

The fork I have is an F29 32 series, 100mm. Not sure if I got an accurate measurement of the steerer tube because the bottom part of the headset came off with the fork and seems stuck on it. But it seems to be 7.25-7.5" in length. The frame that I currently have the fork on is 4" HT (4.5" including combined upper and lower headset height), 1.5" of spacers and another 2" on the stem height. 

The YS is 110mm HT for a medium, so I am thinking this should work. My biggest concern is with headset height as my current frame the lower headset seems like it goes right in to the frame and the top part has a very low profile. Can you use low profile (not sure if that's the right description?) headsets with the YS? This will be the first time I build a bike on my own so I am trying to make sure I don't over look an important detail.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

cjsb said:


> On the verge of ordering a YS, but need to use and existing fork to keep the cost down. Does anyone know minimum steerer tube length for the frame?
> 
> The fork I have is an F29 32 series, 100mm. Not sure if I got an accurate measurement of the steerer tube because the bottom part of the headset came off with the fork and seems stuck on it. But it seems to be 7.25-7.5" in length. The frame that I currently have the fork on is 4" HT (4.5" including combined upper and lower headset height), 1.5" of spacers and another 2" on the stem height.
> 
> The YS is 110mm HT for a medium, so I am thinking this should work. My biggest concern is with headset height as my current frame the lower headset seems like it goes right in to the frame and the top part has a very low profile. Can you use low profile (not sure if that's the right description?) headsets with the YS? This will be the first time I build a bike on my own so I am trying to make sure I don't over look an important detail.


You can get a Zerostack lower cup instead of the external 1.5" lower cup - that would save some space.

My steerer is about 7.5" on a medium yelli with external lower cup. Running 15mm spacers.


----------



## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

The bottom part that is stuck on the steerer tube is the crown race. You just need a screw driver to remove it. Google "how to remove install headset" and you should get some good videos pop up.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

ncfisherman said:


> You can get a Zerostack lower cup instead of the external 1.5" lower cup - that would save some space.
> 
> My steerer is about 7.5" on a medium yelli with external lower cup. Running 15mm spacers.


The only way you can run a ZS bottom cup on the Yelli is if you have a 1-1/8" non-tapered steerer. If you are running a tapered fork you will need a traditional external cup bottom.


----------



## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

JoshM said:


> The only way you can run a ZS bottom cup on the Yelli is if you have a 1-1/8" non-tapered steerer. If you are running a tapered fork you will need a traditional external cup bottom.


This is true. Thought that he mentioned a straight 1 1/8" steerer.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Im running a zero stack cane creek headset upper and lower, no probs -- improves the handling by having a steeper head angle (in my view


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

fastfish666 said:


> Im running a zero stack cane creek headset upper and lower, no probs -- improves the handling by having a steeper head angle (in my view


It's about an 8mm difference is stack height between the two cane creek assemblies, if anyone is wondering. 
I find the key to keeping the bars as low as possible is to ditch all the spacers under the stem and use as low rise a bar as possible.

Do you notice any flex in the steerer area of your fork/headtube interface?
I had a ZS on my Yelli when i first rode it this season and quickly switched to a tapered fork and noticed a huge improvement. I was never really happy with the Cane Creek ZS bottom. It always felt a little loose no matter how carefully I adjusted it.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Ive not had any issues with the cane creek lower -- I think it saved about 10mm compared with a CK external cup -- which was about 0.5deg on the head angle -- I was more after faster handling than h/b height. I have one 10mm spacer on top to try to prevent the brakes hitting the top tube and flat 700mm bars on a zero-rise 80mm stem.
Ive not ridden a tapered steeter fork, but i can tell you that my Rebas at 120mm travel with a 20mm though axle is night and day compared with my Fox F29s set at 100mm -- the Rebas are so much more precise steering (they feel like my rigid forks in terms of steering precision. TheF29s are ok at 80mm


----------



## orlowskij (Sep 20, 2006)

Today was productive.


----------



## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

White seat inbound?


----------



## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

orlowskij said:


> Today was productive.


Looks fab.


----------



## SundayRiverRider (Oct 29, 2008)

orlowskij said:


> Today was productive.


Looks awesome. I've been thinking of building up a 29er frameset for my son.We'll work on it together. I'll get to ride it too 

Just today narrowed it down to the YS and I was thinking of picking up that exact fork. I am hoping to order the green frame next week. I'll still need to plan out the other parts list. I was thinking of Stans Arch EX or Flows for the wheels.


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## orlowskij (Sep 20, 2006)

Blatant said:


> White seat inbound?


Haha, soon. I'm still trying to find a decent light saddle that works for me. I was hoping for some white rims too, but the deal from Wiggle on those wheels was too hard to pass up. Some white flows may be in the future, depending on how the crests hold up.


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## chestercospinner (Apr 8, 2007)

Love my YS!!! Thought Id share one I just saw listed for anyone interested, Canfield Yelli Screamy, 2012, Medium, Black | eBay makes me wish i had waited a bit to grab one cheap from fleabay.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Just did a very jungle-cross style outlaw cyclocross race tonight on my Yelli Screamy. Totally ate up the rough stuff, and the wide bars kept people from passing me. Super fun.

Mrogan


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

So far two rides on the WB loop 120. Love the fork but it's crazy how much 20mm slows down the steering of the bike in the tight stuff. It's lost some of the "oversized bmx bike" feel that I love. As soon as I can get my hands on some 5wt shock oil I'm taking it down to 100mm.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

try a shorter stem


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Dan GSR said:


> try a shorter stem


I thought about it. Having trouble seeing how that will help (won't know till I try right ?). My thinking is that the longer fork feels like it's putting me in a more rearward position as it is - if I go with a shorter stem I think I'll notice it even more. Plus, there's a bunch of short but pretty steep climbs around here - trying to preserve my ability to clear them without having to concentrate too much on my weight distribution.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

i noticed faster steering going from 80mm to 70mm


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

A shorter stem will slow handling down. The closer the stem is in line to the axle the faster the steering.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

have you tried it?


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

geraldooka said:


> A shorter stem will slow handling down. The closer the stem is in line to the axle the faster the steering.


Thats a new one to me are you sure about that?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

wobbem said:


> Thats a new one to me are you sure about that?


Nope  but that's what I have read and experienced myself. Having said that I concurrently installed wider bars as well so I have no "control group" if you will.

Maybe I should describe a longer stem as being twitchier... Or maybe I should stay out of these conversations!

I find the relationship between handle bars, stem length, rise, width, climbing descending, back pain, efficiency terrain ridden etc... To be complex enough of a set of variables that it would be nearly impossible to advise anyone unless there variables were the same as mine.

I know for the technical climbing and descending I do a wider bar and shorter stem are great. it slowed my steering and increased my leverage.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

I tried a 70mm stem around the neighborhood, didn't work for me. Took the fork down to 100 last night, easy stuff with the help of the video on the WB site. The handling I like is back. This fork is behaving very well for me so far. Really prefer the damping characteristics much more than the reba. Its not nearly as eager to blow through the midstroke. Its really stiff too.

My wife asked if there were any more brothers I could get on the bike... just need crank bros I guess. Bro-dozer


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

My 15-year-old is borrowing mine for a ride with his buddy, this morning. He wants to sell his Heckler (outgrown) and get one of his own, for high-school racing and for a fun bike.

Morgan


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I am sure this question has been asked and answered, but I have only been able to get back to pg 72. I am a 265# Clyde who has thrown a lot of nice parts at an 09 Rockhopper only to find out the bottom bracket area flexes soooo bad the rear tire rubs on the chainstay ( I thought it was my Mavic 29ssmax, but after I toasted them I had CK/Flow Ex and still the same story. 

Almost all my parts will swap over to the Yelli, but I don't ride anything crazy technical. I just want a bike that can handle my power and weight, climbs well, and doesn't flex like a mofo. I do have a 100mm Manitou Tower Expert 1-1/8 that I will have to use, but from what I have read I can buy a hs that will adapt to the tapered ht, and that 100mm is ok for the geo. 

It sounds like this bike does well on tight stuff, and can hammer up and down hills pretty well. 

Anyone wanna buy a 21" Rockhopper frame....haha


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## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

jonshonda said:


> I am sure this question has been asked and answered, but I have only been able to get back to pg 72. I am a 265# Clyde who has thrown a lot of nice parts at an 09 Rockhopper only to find out the bottom bracket area flexes soooo bad the rear tire rubs on the chainstay ( I thought it was my Mavic 29ssmax, but after I toasted them I had CK/Flow Ex and still the same story.
> 
> Almost all my parts will swap over to the Yelli, but I don't ride anything crazy technical. I just want a bike that can handle my power and weight, climbs well, and doesn't flex like a mofo. I do have a 100mm Manitou Tower Expert 1-1/8 that I will have to use, but from what I have read I can buy a hs that will adapt to the tapered ht, and that 100mm is ok for the geo.


I've ridden a 2009 Rockhopper, and agree that it's not particularly stiff. The Yelli is a significantly stiffer frame. You can use a ZS49 headset, or for a little slacker GEO, you can use an EC49 lower headset and a 1 1/8 crown race.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

The tire would rub the chainstay on my last frame too. I haven't noticed any flex at all in the Yelli frame (I'm only 180# though). I've found it climbs well - especially on technical climbs with step-ups. Another burly frame you may want to look at is the Banshee Paradox. Should ride a lot like the YS for less $$$$.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Thanks for the heads up on the Banshee, but I see its roughly the same price. I am really digging the Yelli, and think it may be my next bike. The frame looks a lot like my 9zero7.


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## gridtalker (Dec 7, 2006)

TIGMAN said:


> So I was checking out the Canfield website to see how they are progressing with the Nimble Nine and I see they are offering a new Aluminum alloy HT 29er model called the Yelli Screamy ! Geo sounds interesting : 16.7 " chainstays , 69 degree HTA w 100mm fork , and will come in a XL size as well for us taller peeps ! Man , even though I'm not really a big HT fan this frame sounds interesting for a nice little playbike !  TIG.


Very interesting


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

jonshonda said:


> I am sure this question has been asked and answered, but I have only been able to get back to pg 72. I am a 265# Clyde who has thrown a lot of nice parts at an 09 Rockhopper only to find out the bottom bracket area flexes soooo bad the rear tire rubs on the chainstay ( I thought it was my Mavic 29ssmax, but after I toasted them I had CK/Flow Ex and still the same story.
> 
> Almost all my parts will swap over to the Yelli, but I don't ride anything crazy technical. I just want a bike that can handle my power and weight, climbs well, and doesn't flex like a mofo. I do have a 100mm Manitou Tower Expert 1-1/8 that I will have to use, but from what I have read I can buy a hs that will adapt to the tapered ht, and that 100mm is ok for the geo.
> 
> ...


I'm 6'2", 215, and have not noticed any unnecessary flex in my XL Yelli Screamy. That's with longer cranks, wider bars as well. As far as wheel rub, there are some things to talk about. If you have / had a quick-release rear skewer, consider getting a DT-Swiss RSW skewer. They screw down, get a tighter connection on the rear drop-outs. They do make a difference. I have them on all my bikes but one, and that bike has a 10mm thru-bolt. (You could do this on the YS, but the rear hub has to be designed for a 10mm thru-bolt, and it's roughly equivalent to a 9mm RWS skewer.) A thru-axle (15mm x 100mm or better, 20mm x 110mm) is a very good idea for someone your size. Also, how's the spoke tension on your wheelset? A freshly built wheelset with excellent hub, spokes, rim will still lose spoke tension in the first few weeks of riding, and will need to be re-tensioned. A big guy like you will need a wheel that is very well tensioned, at the top end of its range. Ideally you'd have brass nipples and 14g spokes, such that you can get that tension right up there, maybe even nipple washers on the Flow rims. A wheel that does not have optimal tension will flex, and the ride will not be as good as it can be.

I may yet break my Yelli Screamy, and I'm OK with that. But it's not flexy.

Morgan


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I'm torn between a large and x-large @ 6'2" w/32" inseam. I ride a 21" rockhopper and like it, but don't want the new bike too large.

The rear wheel does need to be tighten, as I can hear the spokes moving a bit.

Anyone have a large or xl black frame for sale? They are out of stock right now.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

jonshonda said:


> The rear wheel does need to be tighten, as I can hear the spokes moving a bit.


Bingo. This is key.

Have a pro get those wheels to correct tension spec.

Sounds like you want an XL. I don't know what my inseam is, but 21" Rockhopper and 6'2" sound like XL to me. My saddle is 81cm top to center of BB, 60mm stem, 31" bars.

Morgan


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I know I need to take in my wheels and have them tensioned again, its just that I have been bugging my lbs with my bb issues so much lately, we needed a break from eachother.

I just compared the geometery of my RH and the XL YS, and I think you are right on about the XL frame. My saddle height is almost exaclty where yours is, and I have a 70mm stem, with 680mm bars ( trails hear are pretty tight, and anything wider made for a very difficult time.

*LOOKING FOR A XL BLACK FRAME* ( yes yelling )


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

Soon...


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

grundy said:


> Soon...


YES!

Morgan


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## jave-mtr (Jan 4, 2007)

xcpeddler said:


> I have made some changes to my drivetrain and switched to a 34T rotor ring. Really like them and am glad to have one on this bike now. I had to add a 1mm spacer to the drive side of the shimano BB. Now there is the standard 2.5mm + a 1mm shim. This gives enough clearance to run a 36-37 T ring. The chainsty length is so short on this bike that moving the front ring more outboard gives a terrible chainline when running in my normal riding gears 34x 17,19,21. I use these cogs 90% of the time. So to solve this, I ditched the 11 and 13T cogs and spaced the remaining 15-36T XT cluster 5mm more outboard on the hub. Chainline is really good for what I ride normally and going to the rear 36T has nowhere near the extreme chain angle of the normal Yelli 1x10 setup. Don't miss the smaller cogs at all. Especially with a 34T or 36T front ring. Not living in the mountains the 32T ring front was too small for everyday riding here. This was all done on a 2012 Medium sized frame. I am not sure if the rear triangles on the other sized frames are identical to the Medium.


HI,
I'm picking up this older issue again. Apparently the seatstays are curved inwards too early and therefore don't allow enough space to run larger outward cogs, correct?
My initial plan was to use this frame together with a singlespeed rear hub with only 6 cogs on it (17-34t), but I guess I can forget about that plan?


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

jave-mtr said:


> HI,
> I'm picking up this older issue again. Apparently the seatstays are curved inwards too early and therefore don't allow enough space to run larger outward cogs, correct?
> My initial plan was to use this frame together with a singlespeed rear hub with only 6 cogs on it (17-34t), but I guess I can forget about that plan?


I'm running exaxtly this set up. Hope SS rear hub with 17-34 6-cog-cassette (9 speed). 32t front ring. No problem at all.


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## jave-mtr (Jan 4, 2007)

savo said:


> I'm running exaxtly this set up. Hope SS rear hub with 17-34 6-cog-cassette (9 speed). 32t front ring. No problem at all.


That's pretty close to my planned setup, that makes me hopeful! Do you think using a DT Swiss SS hub will make a huge difference regarding this issue? I'm wondering if the spacing between the two hubs is way different?


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

jave-mtr said:


> That's pretty close to my planned setup, that makes me hopeful! Do you think using a DT Swiss SS hub will make a huge difference regarding this issue? I'm wondering if the spacing between the two hubs is way different?


I have no idea. But I don't think the spacing to be significantly different. There's a thread about fitting reduced cassettes on SS hubs, you can ask there.
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/6-cogs-ss-hub-best-solution-458083.html


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

I am having problems with my bottom bracket on my yelli creaking. I have taken it apart and tried greasing it and it still creaks . Any suggestions? It only happens about 15 minutes after I start riding and is loud.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Agledhill said:


> I am having problems with my bottom bracket on my yelli creaking. I have taken it apart and tried greasing it and it still creaks . Any suggestions? It only happens about 15 minutes after I start riding and is loud.


Try tightening your pedals a bit more. Thats happened to me a few times.


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Agledhill said:


> I am having problems with my bottom bracket on my yelli creaking. I have taken it apart and tried greasing it and it still creaks . Any suggestions? It only happens about 15 minutes after I start riding and is loud.


 Get your BB refaced, mine did the same, all good now:thumbsup:


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

By refaced do you mean like tap the threads?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Agledhill said:


> By refaced do you mean like tap the threads?


Facing is making the faces of the bb shell parallel and smooth. Chasing is cleaning the threads with a tap. Both are good.

My Yelli Screamy is quiet.

But I wish my kid would stop borrowing it.

Morgan


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks for the advice! I will try it out.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Nice fall day!


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## Nail Every Trail (Sep 28, 2012)

Nice pic Jonesy22! Bike looks great.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Thanks!!


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

grundy said:


> Soon...
> 
> My kingdom for an EC49! Sigh. Waiting waiting waiting for that and then I can start building.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

How are you having trouble getting a cane creek headset ?


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

92gli said:


> How are you having trouble getting a cane creek headset ?


I'm getting it through a local shop, and just need the lower assembly, which I don't want to press in myself.

They got the wrong part (ZS49, I think) and I've subsequently been waiting for the correct part. Was told that both QBP and BTI are out.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

It's a sad day when a bike shop can't get their hands on a CC lower cup as fast as I can from my desk at home. The last headset I ordered was on my doorstep in 3 days. 

Do yourself a favor and order it online and press it in with something you fashion up with some threaded rod and plate steel. Even a block of softwood and a hammer will do. Lube it well and go easy...(that's what she said.) It's really not that tight of a fit, aluminum is soft.) The shop will prob even put it in for you if you pay for the labour and bring an 8-pack

It's great to support your LBS but for a small part like that that is holding up my build, I would not be waiting.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

grundy said:


> Was told that both QBP and BTI are out.


Well, they're very mistaken or pulling your chain for some reason. Universal cycles is showing every version of a 49 lower that cane creek makes in stock. I don't remember which one of those distributors their site is tied in with, but its always been accurate in my experience.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I purchased an EC49for my Yelli two weeks ago, ordered from .Cane Creek web site, with help from their customer service. The headset shipped from a shop in another state, but it arrived within 5 days. took it to a LBs, installed for $10


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

JoshM said:


> It's a sad day when a bike shop can't get their hands on a CC lower cup as fast as I can from my desk at home. The last headset I ordered was on my doorstep in 3 days.
> 
> Do yourself a favor and order it online and press it in with something you fashion up with some threaded rod and plate steel. Even a block of softwood and a hammer will do. Lube it well and go easy...(that's what she said.) It's really not that tight of a fit, aluminum is soft.) The shop will prob even put it in for you if you pay for the labour and bring an 8-pack
> 
> It's great to support your LBS but for a small part like that that is holding up my build, I would not be waiting.


Or buy a cheap press online at the same time, they you don't have to be dependent on the LBS. If you're building your own Yelli, this prolly ain't gonna be the last time your going to be pressing in a headset or bottom bracket cups...
Universal Cycles -- Park Tool HHP-3 Home Mechanic Bearing Cup Press


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Took some pics today.

Yelli and friends....


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Hi y'all. Selling my Large Yelli frame + headset. Sad but true. Paid the spam fee.

Garage Sale: LG Yelli Screamy, RaceFace, HBC, Surly - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

buddhak said:


> Hi y'all. Selling my Large Yelli frame + headset. Sad but true. Paid the spam fee.
> 
> Garage Sale: LG Yelli Screamy, RaceFace, HBC, Surly - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


You will regret this.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

Truer words were never spoken...


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Agledhill said:


> I am having problems with my bottom bracket on my yelli creaking. I have taken it apart and tried greasing it and it still creaks . Any suggestions? It only happens about 15 minutes after I start riding and is loud.


Is it a constant creaking noise? I'm having similar issues on my Honzo ATM, and I've done quite a lot on Friday night only to solve nothing it seems after today's ride. It happens whenever I'm pedaling, but not constant. It will come and go

- Cleaned and regreased pedal threads

- Cleaned and regreased chainring bolts, 32T ring, 1x9

- Cleaned and popped open my half season old Shimano XT BB cups, didn't look dirty or contaminated, still lots of original grease left, added more grease

- Cleaned BB threads and applied a liberal amount of Finish Line anti-seize paste to BB cups

- Reinistalled BB cups into the frame, proper torque, and proper use of spacers

- Cleaned and regreased crank spindle and anything else I could smear with grease


wobbem said:


> Get your BB refaced, mine did the same, all good now:thumbsup:


I think I'll be brining my frame this week to the LBS to get this done before trying out the new Shimano Saint BB I have laying around.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

I finally started wrenching this weekend.

It turns out that I'm missing not one, but two crucial pieces










In addition to needing a headset (used frame, missing the crown race from the well used looking FSA that came attached), it turns out that I bought the wrong front brake adapter too.

First rainy day of the year and me without a single speed!


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

eurospek said:


> Is it a constant creaking noise? I'm having similar issues on my Honzo ATM, and I've done quite a lot on Friday night only to solve nothing it seems after today's ride. It happens whenever I'm pedaling, but not constant. It will come and go
> 
> - Cleaned and regreased pedal threads
> 
> ...


What about the sliders ?


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

eurospek said:


> Is it a constant creaking noise? I'm having similar issues on my Honzo ATM, and I've done quite a lot on Friday night only to solve nothing it seems after today's ride. It happens whenever I'm pedaling, but not constant. It will come and go
> 
> - Cleaned and regreased pedal threads
> 
> ...


I used a wire brush on the threads of the frame and that seemed to get rid of the creaking noise. Now it only comes at the end of a long ride. Hope this helps!


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## TheGoat31 (Feb 3, 2009)

*Fork Travel?*

I am buying a Yelli Screamy to build up this winter. My biggest question is what size fork to go with, 100mm or 120mm? I looking for current owners input on how they like their 100mm or 120mm setups. Trying to make this decision seems to be a tough one. Thanks in advance on any and all input.

Thanks,
The Goat


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## mtlatham (Oct 16, 2011)

TheGoat31 said:


> I am buying a Yelli Screamy to build up this winter. My biggest question is what size fork to go with, 100mm or 120mm? I looking for current owners input on how they like their 100mm or 120mm setups. Trying to make this decision seems to be a tough one. Thanks in advance on any and all input.
> 
> Thanks,
> The Goat


The guys at Canfield suggest the frame is optimal at 140mm. I run a Revelation at 130mm (I don't climb well). Works great.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

I've run mine at 120 and 140. I prefer 140. I personally wouldn't even consider 100.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Mine has always been at 140. I have to stay on the front a little more to keep it tracking through turns and have debated 120, but not strongly enough to actually bother doing it. Between your two choices, I'd definitely go 120. 

At least based on my experience and trails, if you want a shorter fork, you may actually want a different frame. I still get pedal strikes with my 140mm fork and 175mm cranks.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

TheGoat31 said:


> I am buying a Yelli Screamy to build up this winter. My biggest question is what size fork to go with, 100mm or 120mm? I looking for current owners input on how they like their 100mm or 120mm setups. Trying to make this decision seems to be a tough one. Thanks in advance on any and all input.
> 
> Thanks,
> The Goat


not sure what the 140 post is referring to as the Canfield Brothers web site recommends forks in 80, 100, and 120.

I just built one up with a 100 mm fork. I haven't ridden mine enough to offer a useful opinion. What I notice so far is that it's fun, really fun! Very easy to get that front end up in the air (back too). he only thing I can think of is going 120 the front end will sit higher. That's not bad by any means. going more than 120 may not feel right for many riders, that's alot of travel in the front with none in the back.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Canfield suggest 100 to 120mm. But does not disapprove 140mm

I personnaly use 140mm and i like it a lot, i used a -1.5 angleset to make it slacker and bring the front end down.

It depends on what kind of rider you are... If you come from a xc background 100 or 120 will be enough and the position will suits you well.

If you come from a dh/fr/am background you will love 140mm for the position and the way it handles.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

For the tight stuff in the midatlantic area I've found 100 to be best. I don't pedal strike that much. I tried 120, preferred the quicker steering of the 100.

I'm not personally sold on the logic of a 140 fork on a hardtail. But thats another discussion.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

I'm run 100 and would not have it anyother way. My riding is mostly single speed XC and I've never had a pedal stike because I know when not to.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

xgoodxlifex said:


> My riding is mostly single speed XC and I've never had a pedal stike because I know when not to.


Sometimes it's unavoidable. If you can climb through 50+ feet of rock garden while ratcheting, timing your strokes and maintaining some momentum without a pedal strike, then congratulations, because I can't. Not all of them, at least.


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## buddhak (Jan 26, 2006)

When I ran it, it was 120mm up front, 175mm cranks and 17mm thin pedals...rock strikes a plenty. It depends on terrain and style, and is therefore a highly variable experience.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I run 140 front, but can dial it down to 110. I rarely do. It's awesome. Did two fantastic rides on it in the CA Sierras last week. Love the bike as it is.

Morgan


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

evasive said:


> Sometimes it's unavoidable. If you can climb through 50+ feet of rock garden while ratcheting, timing your strokes and maintaining some momentum without a pedal strike, then congratulations, because I can't. Not all of them, at least.


You're totally right, sometimes it's unavoidable and my trails in So Cal probably are not as crazy as others so you also have to consider that. I'm not sure exactly how much extra clearance 3/4" extra fork gets you at the BB but I'd probably ride the same when it came to clearing rocks, roots, logs and railroad ties with 120 or 100. I do think the 100 is the right geo for me, my style and trails.


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## xcpeddler (May 21, 2011)

I ride with 100mm for tight, root infested single track in Texas. 120mm on a medium frame gives up a lot of peddling efficiency. I use a cane creek 40 series w/ inset top and external bottom. Even with a flat bar and 0 rise stem the front end is high. More travel is not always better. Rider/bike fit is everything. Now if all you do is bomb downhill, DS banked runs then by all means go with seat down front jacked up!!! My bike is setup similar to 92's.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Canfield doesn't have #s for a 140mm fork on their geometry chart, but the difference between a 120mm and 100mm fork (Fox) is 6mm of BB drop. It doesn't sound like a lot, but a few mm here and there (cranks, pedals too) can make a difference on some trails.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Just thought I'd throw this out there...

I went to install an X9 spiderless crank, HBC chainring and the MRP 1x direct mount chainguide combo today and it doesn't work well. The HBC ring has no offset which kicks the chainline outboard toward the crank arm. The MRP 1x direct mount chainguide doesn't have enough adjustment to move the guide outboard to line it up around the chain/chainring. I'm fairly sure I could fiddle with it to get it to work, but instead, I just ordered the MRP Bling Ring. According to MRP, the ring is offset inboard to be more inline with the middle chainring on a triple crankset and the position of the 1x direct mount chainguide. 

Has anybody else had success with this combo?

Luckily I have the same crankset/ring set up on my SS N9, so the ring wont go to waist.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

tartosuc said:


> Well, my first trail ride tonite with the yelli. Interresting one.
> 
> Started ok, with a big climb, bike handles well, i can feel the difference in acceleration compared to my 26er am bike...i realized i'm not used to hardtails anymore! You feel every bump!
> 
> ...


Regarding the toe strikes and the front wheel, that was my main sizing concern before buying the frame without trying it first. I thought that from the dimensions it could be close but should be okay based on the 29er HT that I was riding and it has turned out okay, but when i saw the frame in person and put the fork on I was concerned. I bought a M 2012 frame, and my riding shoe size is 13. I put a G2 fork on it which has more offset, but I don't know if that matters. I have been riding it for 2 weeks and no toe overlap and I move my feet around alot.

I ride a SS setup so no chain sifting issues so far...

The frame is stiff than anything I have ridden in years so i noticed something similar to your comment regarding bumps, but I have been riding another 29er HT for over a year before this one and it seems that faster is better, within reason...


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I'm 6'2", size 13 shoe (48 SIDIs), XL frame, 180mm cranks, clipless pedals with the cleat all the way toward my arch, 140mm fork; no toe overlap. 

Morgan


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## cruiserman (Jun 9, 2008)

I'm 6' with 49 Sidis, L frame, 180mm cranks, and 100mm fork. No issues with toe overlap, but I do get pedal strikes now and then. Thinking about going with 120mm fork.


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## jhuthpd (Oct 22, 2012)

Looks like a nice ride


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

So its safe to say the Yelli is the most fun to ride 29er at this time? 

I think its time I start looking for a Large Black or Orange Frame. If anyone is selling one, PM me.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

Still working on the world's longest (slowest) build!

I'm setting this up as a single speed, and had high hopes for running a magic gear 32x21








No banana. I need a 1/4 link to make this work. I was able to get a really worn chain with a half link to install, but it's too tight. I don't see any way of setting up a 32x21 magic gear.

So, I unpacked the Sette chain tensioner that I'd intended to use.








No banana. The Sette tensioner cannot rotate far enough forward to take up sufficient slack in the "push up" mode, and will not fit (without lengthening the chain) in "push down" mode. Disappointing.

Luckily, morganfletcher came to my rescue and lent me the DMR STS that he had been running on his Yelli








Success! Same idea as the Sette tensioner, but better. I guess that's what I get for buying the knock off brand.

I'm still curious about a magic gear. Once upon a time I bought a single speed conversion kit that came with a bunch of cheap, stamped cogs - I'll go through those and see if I can find a combo to work. Have any of you come up with other, workable magic gear combos?

Anyway:








Just needs some shock setup and a safety/sanity check. I still haven't thrown a leg over it.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

cjsb said:


> Regarding the toe strikes and the front wheel, that was my main sizing concern before buying the frame without trying it first. I thought that from the dimensions it could be close but should be okay based on the 29er HT that I was riding and it has turned out okay, but when i saw the frame in person and put the fork on I was concerned. I bought a M 2012 frame, and my riding shoe size is 13. I put a G2 fork on it which has more offset, but I don't know if that matters. I have been riding it for 2 weeks and no toe overlap and I move my feet around alot.
> 
> I ride a SS setup so no chain sifting issues so far...
> 
> The frame is stiff than anything I have ridden in years so i noticed something similar to your comment regarding bumps, but I have been riding another 29er HT for over a year before this one and it seems that faster is better, within reason...


I got that issue resolve a while ago...toe strike wont happen when you ride with clipless pedals...it can happen with flat pedals like in my situation...

On regular trail ridiing, easy trails it was not a problem, it became a problem on rocky/bumpy downhils...since its a hardtail I tend to be kicked out of the pedals and my feet were getting centered toward the arch of the pedals...the kind of things that never happened on a 26" bike...

I got rid of the issue by adding an angleset and 170mm cranks...now my feets can move around on the pedals whitout getting any toe overlap.

It will be very usefull this winter when i will be riding the bike with spike tires and winterboots...


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

grundy said:


> I'm still curious about a magic gear. Once upon a time I bought a single speed conversion kit that came with a bunch of cheap, stamped cogs - I'll go through those and see if I can find a combo to work. *Have any of you come up with other, workable magic gear combos?
> *
> Anyway:
> 
> ...


A stoked YS owner here, riding it for 3 weeks now. I have a 2012 YS medium frame. magic gear works for me. I have a very low budget build to start out, transfer of stuff from another bike, including: Truvativ Fire X Cranks 32 SS, 1/8" Chain, added a 21t Surly cog as I couldn't find a 21t for 1/8 and I was told it doesn't matter as the 1/8 chain won't slip on the 3/32 cog.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

So 32x21 works for you, as a magic gear? No half link?

How tight is the chain?

Searching the forums here, it seems that this works for some and completely does not work for others. I don't get it.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Grundy, how is the fit with a 20T? If its just a bit too tight with 21, then maybe 20 will fit? I much prefer 32x20 on my 29 SS anyway.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

grundy said:


> So 32x21 works for you, as a magic gear? No half link?
> 
> How tight is the chain?
> 
> Searching the forums here, it seems that this works for some and completely does not work for others. I don't get it.


Yes, 32x21 no half link. I'd say about 1/2-3/4" of clearance at the lowest sag point of the chain and the stay. It was tighter the first 2 weeks.


----------



## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

interesting, thanks.

phsycyle - I'll be trying that out, maybe a few other combos as well *after* I get some ride time on it


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

grundy said:


> interesting, thanks.
> 
> phsycyle - I'll be trying that out, maybe a few other combos as well *after* I get some ride time on it


I am curious about your DMR, is the roller wide enough for a 1/8" chain? If my chain continues to sag more I'll be looking for a tensioner.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

I know nothing about 1/8" chains, but I can take a picture and measure the DMR. However, DMR's site does say that the STS is designed for geared chains, and that if you wish to run a single speed specific chain that you should use the STS2
Products Guides Tension Seeker 2 DMR Bikes

I'm curious about the Yess ETR-B. Looks clean.
ETR/B / bike chain tensioners and other goodies / your friends at yess labs


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Yess tensionner are solid products
I had a few over the years and all worked perfectly...


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

cjsb said:


> I am curious about your DMR, is the roller wide enough for a 1/8" chain? If my chain continues to sag more I'll be looking for a tensioner.


No, I took a look and my 3/32 chain is a nice snug fit, a 1/8 chain will not work.

Finally got a ride in on this beast - awesome. I'm pleasantly surprised by the chain tensioner. It is noticeable when the bike is in the stand (drag and noise) but not noticeable at all on the trail. I'm way less concerned about magic gears etc after a single ride.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Good deal for folks fitting a Small.



Canfield Brothers Downhill Bikes and Components said:


> A Little November LOVE for you... Until 11/25/12, all Size Small Yelli Screamys are on sale for $499. These make a killer pump track bike!!!


Canfield Brothers Closeout Frames and Demos


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Going to try a blackspire stinger on mine although the dmr looks good. I found that the magic ratio works for a few rides before the chain stretches and its a bit slack.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

Wow. I finally got this thing out on the trail. I got a quick night ride in on Tuesday, then worked from home Wednesday and snuck in a last-of-light ride, will be out for a longer night ride tonight.










I've never ridden a 29er before, so this is quite an experience. For the first time ever, I kinda wish I was on Strava so I could compare the Yelli to my other bikes. I think the big wheels make it seem like it is going slower than it actually is, compared to a 26er. The first ride out, I felt like I was going slow, especially climbing. Then, started to realize I was actually cruising pretty fast. Later, bombing down some chunky trails I started to wonder if I was riding as fast as I do on my 5.Spot. Good times.

Anyway, I'm stoked so far. I had the chance to take it down a few of the tougher trails in the area and man, it was fast and comfy. this thing is going to be fun.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

grundy said:


> Wow. I finally got this thing out on the trail. I got a quick night ride in on Tuesday, then worked from home Wednesday and snuck in a last-of-light ride, will be out for a longer night ride tonight.
> 
> I've never ridden a 29er before, so this is quite an experience. For the first time ever, I kinda wish I was on Strava so I could compare the Yelli to my other bikes. I think the big wheels make it seem like it is going slower than it actually is, compared to a 26er. The first ride out, I felt like I was going slow, especially climbing. Then, started to realize I was actually cruising pretty fast. Later, bombing down some chunky trails I started to wonder if I was riding as fast as I do on my 5.Spot. Good times.
> 
> Anyway, I'm stoked so far. I had the chance to take it down a few of the tougher trails in the area and man, it was fast and comfy. this thing is going to be fun.


Excellent!

Morgan


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

grundy said:


> Wow. I finally got this thing out on the trail. I got a quick night ride in on Tuesday, then worked from home Wednesday and snuck in a last-of-light ride, will be out for a longer night ride tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice bike and nice garden too :thumbsup:


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Bunzl said:


> Going to try a blackspire stinger on mine although the dmr looks good. I found that the magic ratio works for a few rides before the chain stretches and its a bit slack.


IMO single speed chains don't need to be tight at all. I can push mine down to touch the chain stay and I've never had one chain drop or problem (no tentioner or chain drop tools). I do have SS specfic cog and chainring with very tall teeth and I've hit all the area has to offer since I built it up 9 months ago.

This is the only picture I had on my phone (I'm at work). I'll have to take another showing the slack.









I'm not saying everyone has their chains too tight or that you should not make sure yours is a good lenght; just they don't have to be as tight as most people think.


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

xgoodxlifex said:


> IMO single speed chains don't need to be tight at all. I can push mine down to touch the chain stay and I've never had one chain drop or problem (no tentioner or chain drop tools). I do have SS specfic cog and chainring with very tall teeth and I've hit all the area has to offer since I built it up 9 months ago.
> 
> This is the only picture I had on my phone (I'm at work). I'll have to take another showing the slack.
> 
> ...


You should run your brake line on the inside on the seat stay. Less chance for it to get hooked or crushed.


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

grundy said:


> Wow. I finally got this thing out on the trail. I got a quick night ride in on Tuesday, then worked from home Wednesday and snuck in a last-of-light ride, will be out for a longer night ride tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sweet ride.

I like to run my front brake cable on the inside of the fork so it can't get snagged by brush.


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## tao (Jan 27, 2008)

*Heel strikes?*

I prefer steel the Nimble 9 looks great but people keep mentioning heel strikes. I can't find anyone complaining about that with the Yelli. What's different?


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

dwnhlldav said:


> Sweet ride.
> 
> I like to run my front brake cable on the inside of the fork so it can't get snagged by brush.


And the back...


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

tao said:


> I prefer steel the Nimble 9 looks great but people keep mentioning heel strikes. I can't find anyone complaining about that with the Yelli. What's different?


The spacing between the stays has to be wider with sliders. So they stick out more.

And..


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## carrlf (Mar 26, 2011)

Whats the bid deal with brake lines? I have been riding for several years now and have not had the issue of brush snagging my lines. The way I look at it is that your bars and pedals have to fit whatever path you take, which is far wider than your frame and the brake lines sticking 1/4 inch off the frame. Oh yeah there is those things called legs that might get snagged also. Anyways until someone says they got snagged, their brake lines were ripped off, and they almost died I don't think it really matters.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

carrlf said:


> Whats the bid deal with brake lines? I have been riding for several years now and have not had the issue of brush snagging my lines. The way I look at it is that your bars and pedals have to fit whatever path you take, which is far wider than your frame and the brake lines sticking 1/4 inch off the frame. Oh yeah there is those things called legs that might get snagged also. Anyways until someone says they got snagged, their brake lines were ripped off, and they almost died I don't think it really matters.


Ask any pro mechanic and they'll tell you inside - always.

If the bike falls on something, they can get pinched or cut a lot easier on the outside. And they _can_ get snagged. Sometimes things grow into the trail - plants grow into open space when possible. I brush into branches and stuff all the time. Plus it looks better.

Since canfield only sells frames there's a lot of people in these threads building their own bike for the first time. Nothing wrong with giving pointers. It's not a spanking.


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

xgoodxlifex said:


> IMO single speed chains don't need to be tight at all. I can push mine down to touch the chain stay and I've never had one chain drop or problem (no tentioner or chain drop tools). I do have SS specfic cog and chainring with very tall teeth and I've hit all the area has to offer since I built it up 9 months ago.
> 
> This is the only picture I had on my phone (I'm at work). I'll have to take another showing the slack.
> 
> I'm not saying everyone has their chains too tight or that you should not make sure yours is a good lenght; just they don't have to be as tight as most people think.


Boone Ti, King.....nice.

Interesting as i've also got a Singular Swift which is set up with a Hope DH ring on the front and a Surly 20 tooth on the back. When i first got it the chain was slightly loose (although nothing like yours) as i hadn't set the BB up correctly and i lost the chain a couple of times on a ride, usually pedalling over rooty stuff. Shouldn't be a drive chain issue as both front and rear are meant for single ring. I wonder if its because i'm using a front ring designed for a 1x9 system so the teeth aren't as wide and therefore snug on the chain. Or maybe i should stick a 1x9 chain on there instead of a sram singlespeed one.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

Asmodeus2112 said:


> And the back...


yeah yeah

no, really - I do appreciate the input. Matter of fact I had intended to move the front to the inside, but hadn't considered the rear. Oddly enough the brakes were set up by a shop (I'd wanted to have them cut down the brake lines, but in the end the mechanic suggested leaving them as they are until I get the cockpit dialed in), and I was a bit surprised by the routing. But - it was time to GET OUT AND RIDE and stop ******* around with things!

I'll get to it.

speaking of getting out and riding, and all caps, let me just say FCUK YEAH! STOKED!


----------



## carrlf (Mar 26, 2011)

92gli said:


> Ask any pro mechanic and they'll tell you inside - always.
> 
> If the bike falls on something, they can get pinched or cut a lot easier on the outside. And they _can_ get snagged. Sometimes things grow into the trail - plants grow into open space when possible. I brush into branches and stuff all the time. Plus it looks better.
> 
> Since canfield only sells frames there's a lot of people in these threads building their own bike for the first time. Nothing wrong with giving pointers. It's not a spanking.


Pointers are fine with me, but this has been beaten to death in this thread. Every couple of weeks someone points it out on someones bike. I understand that things can get snagged and it might look cooler, but I dont think its the big deal its made out to be. Yes anything can happen while out riding and I see your points, but in my opinion there are more things to worry about than the brake line. Most people do not carry proper tools, extra tubes, pumps or co2, or enough water while riding. So in my opinion if the worst mistake someone makes is to route a brake hose the wrong way they are doing good. Rant over.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

gulljammer said:


> You should run your brake line on the inside on the seat stay. Less chance for it to get hooked or crushed.


I've brought it up before on this thread. The Canfield boys ran their demo bikes with the rear brake lines on the outside and it's a straighter path for my XT's so I like it the way it is.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Bunzl said:


> Boone Ti, King.....nice.
> 
> Interesting as i've also got a Singular Swift which is set up with a Hope DH ring on the front and a Surly 20 tooth on the back. When i first got it the chain was slightly loose (although nothing like yours) as i hadn't set the BB up correctly and i lost the chain a couple of times on a ride, usually pedalling over rooty stuff. Shouldn't be a drive chain issue as both front and rear are meant for single ring. I wonder if its because i'm using a front ring designed for a 1x9 system so the teeth aren't as wide and therefore snug on the chain. Or maybe i should stick a 1x9 chain on there instead of a sram singlespeed one.


Thanks, the cog is actually not a Boone (cuz I could not find one) it's a guy on ebay that makes them out of steel, the teeth are super tall and they work great! I've got a 19t and 20t from him and wish I bought more. I found him on eBay actually searching "Boone". I think his prices went up since I bought them though: J B C Singlespeed Cog 3 32" x 20T Stainless Surly King Boone Compatible JBC | eBay

Also, a SS specific front chain ring makes a big difference. Just look at the new SRAM XX1 front chainring, they claim no chain drop devices are needed. With front and back SS specific and a good chain line, I've never needed a tentioner with my 32x20 set up. :thumbsup:


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## tao (Jan 27, 2008)

Makes sense. Thanks.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Here's a side view. The only downside is I have to keep the chainstay protector on. But on the plus side the drive train spins freely.


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Ok great. Will maybe try a ss front ring. Definitely going to have a look at those rear sprockets as they look lovely.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:

http://www.pinkbike.com/v/286184/l/

Cinderella Trail on a Hardtail Edit on Pinkbike

Morgan


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:
> 
> http://www.pinkbike.com/v/286184/l/
> 
> ...


Nice!


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:


Looks like fun. He should've given you a "special thanks" on the video though, since it's your bike :thumbsup:


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

wv_bob said:


> Looks like fun. He should've given you a "special thanks" on the video though, since it's your bike :thumbsup:


Yes! Tell me about it.

Morgan


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

Sweet builds in this thread. Looks like I will be stepping up to a YS. 

If anyone is deciding to let their large frame go, please let me know.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

No money for a nice camera. Too busy buying tires and new grips after wearing them out after a great season on the Yelli. Still riding it almost everyday, and have no desire to try anything else. Canfield has really nailed it with this frame. I still wish for ISCG tabs though. Maybe on the next frame.

I can list a total spec of my build if anyone really wants a rundown. I have no idea what the thing weighs. Light enough to climb some sweet sh*t. 

ESI silicone grips are so awsome, everyone should buy them. 

Here is a crappy picture of an awsome bike.


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

JoshM said:


> No money for a nice camera. Too busy buying tires and new grips after wearing them out after a great season on the Yelli. Still riding it almost everyday, and have no desire to try anything else. Canfield has really nailed it with this frame. I still wish for ISCG tabs though. Maybe on the next frame.
> 
> I can list a total spec of my build if anyone really wants a rundown. I have no idea what the thing weighs. Light enough to climb some sweet sh*t.
> 
> ...


What fork is that?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

gulljammer said:


> What fork is that?


Rockshox Revelation RLT, 20mm axle, tapered. 140mm travel.


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## 06DODGECTD (Nov 3, 2010)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:
> 
> http://www.pinkbike.com/v/286184/l/
> 
> ...


Nice video! I wasn't planning on riding this morning before work due to the colder weather, but after watching this video how could I not? Keep up the good work.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

JoshM said:


> No money for a nice camera. Too busy buying tires and new grips after wearing them out after a great season on the Yelli. Still riding it almost everyday, and have no desire to try anything else. Canfield has really nailed it with this frame. I still wish for ISCG tabs though. Maybe on the next frame.
> 
> I can list a total spec of my build if anyone really wants a rundown. I have no idea what the thing weighs. Light enough to climb some sweet sh*t.
> 
> ...


Yup. I'm a total believer now. Always ran ODI Rogues (but were always too thick), hated the Ruffians as they were too thin and could never find any other lock-on grip that I liked.

Tried the ESI Chunkys mid season and I'm never going back to anything else. Once installed they don't move, super comfortable, although they easily get torn in crashes or clipping trees, but at under $15 a pair, it's cheap enough to replace when they get super nasty.


----------



## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)




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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

nice!


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## Rival1 (Nov 18, 2012)

My Yelli on Slim Shady trail in Sedona.


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## WVJon75 (Jul 23, 2006)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:
> 
> http://www.pinkbike.com/v/286184/l/
> 
> ...


Nice vid! I really like the music, who:thumbsup: is it?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

WVJon75 said:


> Nice vid! I really like the music, who:thumbsup: is it?


Had to wait for the boy genius.

The XX - Intro (theMmMiXX - Long Version) - YouTube

Morgan


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Anyone heard when they are going to make another production run of these? I am thinking about turning my nimble 9 back into a XC style bike and getting this frame for more of a AM hardtail instead of my nimble 9 having to pull both duties. 

(looking for a large)


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## WVJon75 (Jul 23, 2006)

Good question Hitech. I'm thinking the same thing. I'm getting ready to buy a new fork and don't want to commit untill I am totally settled into a frame for the long haul. 
Just curious how heavy are you and do you notice any appreciable flex in your Nimble? I'm 210 and my Nimble seems less stiff than my Redline monocog. It rides great and I love the geo but can't help but wonder if I'd prefer a stiffer frame with a tapered steerer at my weight. I ride mostly xc stuff but really like to take jumps and drops when I get the chance.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

*Glossy Green on the way!*

I've been regularly checking the classifieds, craigslist, and ebay for a medium glossy green, and Canfield has been out of stock for months.

One (just one?) suddenly showed up as in-stock, so I ordered it immediately.

I REALLY hope this isn't some type of inventory mistake.

Pics to come!:thumbsup:


----------



## Hoka Hey (Nov 10, 2010)

Used silver large Yelli at Redstone Cyclery in Lyons, CO. They put together a Yelli for me and the price was good and service to match.


----------



## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

I called Canfield 3 weeks ago asking if they had ANY ano colors in large. Nope, none, zip. I did get an ETA of May 2013 for next (new?) batch. 

I was able to get one from a member on here. Pics to follow as well.


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## rocknical1 (Oct 11, 2010)

*yeli believer*

just built up my large yeli and i have to say it was the last 29er on the block for me had two niners and a dean all hard tails and just could not get the right feel out of them. They rolled well they just were not as fun jumping manuels, they felt like a oversized car on a italian road in amalfi. Got a really good deal on a yeli ( I have a one) so thought I would give it a try. I have been riding for 18 years, and this is a bold statement however I cant remember a more fun bike that I have ridden right out of the gate. If you like I were ready to call it a day on the 29er craze it is worth checking out.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

yeah they are super fun bikes to ride and very versatile -- made the mistake of trying to ride my mate's spec carbon epic in the same style -- didnt work!


----------



## mece (Dec 16, 2012)

anybody built up a black chrome one yet? i cant find too many good shots of this color


----------



## kingdom (Jul 6, 2012)

Merry Christmas all! 








Such a fun bike! New forks and bigger rotors. Bikes a hoot in the British much. 
Just waiting on Hans Dampf tyres and a reverb, also thinking of fitting my gamut.


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

mece said:


> anybody built up a black chrome one yet? i cant find too many good shots of this color


This should help...

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/c...-run-report-long-pics-808026.html#post9605160


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

Here's mine, by the way. After a small mix-up with my order, Canfield graciously offered me a GREAT price on an orange ano.

Three rides in and impressed so far.


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## elroyj (Apr 3, 2011)

Love this bike!


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

Still love the purple ano. Too bad those are hard to come by. All these posts are motivating me to build mine this week.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy is 15. He's outgrown his mtn bike(s) and until I get him a new one, he's riding my Yelli Screamy. It's a size too big for him, but he rides it pretty well. Here's a video he and his buddy made today:
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/v/286184/l/
> 
> ...


Now he's got his own!


Untitled by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

He looks, um, happy?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

wv_bob said:


> He looks, um, happy?


I cannot get that kid to smile for a picture, unless I catch him unawares.

That's a happy face.

Morgan


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Hoka Hey said:


> Used silver large Yelli at Redstone Cyclery in Lyons, CO. They put together a Yelli for me and the price was good and service to match.


I bought this frame for my son, who's just outgrown his medium bike. We built it last night and discovered this morning that is is, in fact, not a large but a medium.

*groan*

The sad thing is that this is the second new bike / frame I've gotten him, that was advertised as a large but was in fact a medium. Family patience is wearing thin!

Does anyone out there have a large Yelli Screamy they'd sell me?

Thanks, and happy new year.

Morgan


----------



## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I thought I saw a large demo for sale on the Canfield Facebook a week or two ago. You might try calling them direct and seeing what they have.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

evasive said:


> I thought I saw a large demo for sale on the Canfield Facebook a week or two ago. You might try calling them direct and seeing what they have.


It's funny you mentioned that. I showed that large, demo frame to some friends and one of them bought it. It's sitting in my garage right now. I'm building it for him. Doesn't help my boy tho. We're bummed.

Right now there's a large listed in VA on craigslist, and a large on pinkbikes. We're sent messages to the sellers, and hopefully we get one here soon. Don't want to go back to sharing bikes with the grom!

Morgan


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

dynamicz said:


> Still love the purple ano. Too bad those are hard to come by. All these posts are motivating me to build mine this week.


I do, too. Although I probably would have chosen black chrome if it had been an option when I ordered mine in 2011.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> Right now there's a large listed in VA on craigslist, and a large on pinkbikes. We're sent messages to the sellers, and hopefully we get one here soon. Don't want to go back to sharing bikes with the grom!
> 
> Morgan


That's funny, although not in a ha-ha way.

Good luck!


----------



## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Morgan,

There is a large green frame for sale on a local forum; Tarheeltrailblazers, which is located around Charlotte, NC


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## Hoka Hey (Nov 10, 2010)

morganfletcher said:


> I bought this frame for my son, who's just outgrown his medium bike. We built it last night and discovered this morning that is is, in fact, not a large but a medium.
> 
> *groan*
> 
> ...


Sorry! I didn't spend any time with it, I was just told it was a large. That is the info I relayed. I'm sure you went over that detail when you bought it though? He was consigning it I believe...was he told by the owner that it was a large?


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## carrlf (Mar 26, 2011)

*PAID SPAM XL Yelli Annodized Orange for Sale*

Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

Here is the link to my ad, feel free to pm me if you have a question. Thanks


----------



## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

morganfletcher said:


> I bought this frame for my son, who's just outgrown his medium bike. We built it last night and discovered this morning that is is, in fact, not a large but a medium.
> 
> *groan*
> 
> ...


you've never heard the expression, "measure twice, cut once" have you?


----------



## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> you've never heard the expression, "measure twice, cut once" have you?


A quick measurement of the seat tube from top to BB would have easily confirmed size.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> A quick measurement of the seat tube from top to BB would have easily confirmed size.


Nod


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

evan9r said:


> Morgan,
> 
> There is a large green frame for sale on a local forum; Tarheeltrailblazers, which is located around Charlotte, NC


Thanks, that may be the same one that's on pinkbike. My son has contacted the seller, hope to get a replacement soon.

Morgan


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## LBIkid (Mar 16, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Thanks, that may be the same one that's on pinkbike. My son has contacted the seller, hope to get a replacement soon.
> 
> Morgan


He should get back to you - he's a really good guy who knows his stuff. If he syill has it, he'll take care of you.


----------



## Hoka Hey (Nov 10, 2010)

For full disclosure I have nothing to do with that frame other than seeing it briefly and having it offered to me as a large. I am simply a customer of the shop. I hope I'm not being accused of malicious deeds.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

eurospek said:


> A quick measurement of the seat tube from top to BB would have easily confirmed size.


My bike has the size of the frame stamped on the back of the direct front deraileur mount. It's small and easily missed. Hopefully they all have this marking to prevent size mix ups.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

LBlkid said:


> He should get back to you - he's a really good guy who knows his stuff. If he syill has it, he'll take care of you.


Cool, thanks. I just had my son message him again. It's the same bike/seller, I'm pretty sure.



Hoka Hey said:


> For full disclosure I have nothing to do with that frame other than seeing it briefly and having it offered to me as a large. I am simply a customer of the shop. I hope I'm not being accused of malicious deeds.


No worries. I called Dave at Redstone Cyclery - from whom I bought the frame - and he was told by the frame's previous owner that it was a large. He sold it on consignment. He's waiting for the p.o. to get back in town and talk with him about it. Meanwhile we'll probably just sell it. I think there's a local guy who's interested.



JoshM said:


> My bike has the size of the frame stamped on the back of the direct front deraileur mount. It's small and easily missed. Hopefully they all have this marking to prevent size mix ups.


I'd never noticed that. I have three Yelli Screamys in my garage at the moment; my XL, my friend Devin's L and my son's M. Two have the mark, and one doesn't.


My extra large by fnagrom, on Flickr


Devin's large by fnagrom, on Flickr


Sam's medium by fnagrom, on Flickr

Going to build the L today with the parts from my Turner Sultan, will post a pic.

I've built lots of bikes, and this is the first time I've built a frame, trusting that the frame size was as expected, when it wasn't. I do usually measure the frames, if they're for me. But it's the second time in a row I've given a bike / frame to my son, believing it to be a large, and finding it's a medium. We're both bummed about it, but hope to get him on a large soon. And I will measure every frame from now on.

Morgan


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Here's another Large for sale, anodized too. Better than the painted option IMO.

Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> Here's another Large for sale, anodized too. Better than the painted option IMO.
> 
> Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy


Thanks.  I emailed that seller yesterday, and again today. No reply.

We're on the hunt!

Morgan


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## boudy (Aug 20, 2007)

*Medium Yelli*

I'm interested in a medium Yelli frame if anyone has one for sale, preferably orange or chrome or black. Send PM.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> morganfletcher said:
> 
> 
> > evasive said:
> ...


Built this for my buddy, two nights ago. Tomorrow is his birthday. Stoke!


Untitled by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

Just finished mine last night... so stoked.


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## Agledhill (Feb 25, 2011)

Xl 2012 Frame yelli screamy for sale. Willing to sell whole bike or just frame, headset, and front derailleur..

2012 Canfield Yelli Screamy XL - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

My Yelli build

L Black Chrome
Tower Expert
Avid BB7s 
SLX Crankset
Currently Running 1x10 using: XT Shadow Plus, HG-81 11-36, XT shifter
I plan on buying Sun Ringle Chargers in the future to complete my build

Currently at a porky 30 pounds

I love it though. Every 29er should handle like this!


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Built this for my buddy, two nights ago. Tomorrow is his birthday. Stoke!
> 
> 
> Untitled by fnagrom, on Flickr
> ...


Is that 1x9 or 1x10? what size chain ring in the front?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> Is that 1x9 or 1x10? what size chain ring in the front?


1x10, 32t chainring x 11-36 SRAM 10spd cassette.

Morgan


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

evan9r said:


> My Yelli build
> 
> L Black Chrome
> Tower Expert
> ...


3 lbs of your weight are from the long ass stem and steerer tube.


----------



## fujiblue1 (Aug 9, 2012)

Just finished her up!! =)


----------



## fujiblue1 (Aug 9, 2012)

Took her out for a ride.
Easton Haven: Wheelset, Stem, Handle bar, Seat post
Shimano XT: Shifters, Rear Derailleur
Cane Creek: Headset
Sram: Avid Elixer 7 brakes, cassette, chain
WTB: Silverado Saddle
RaceFace: Turbine Crankset
ODI: grip
Manitou: Tower Pro 120 
Specialized: Purgatory/Captain tires


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

My boy Sam built his new-to-him, large purple Yelli Screamy Friday. He did everything, including pressing the headset cups.


Sam's new Yelli Screamy by fnagrom, on Flickr

He's been riding it ever since, including a night ride with his buddy, the first night. Only change from the photo is a 2.25" UST Ardent rear tire, down from 2.4" to clear the front derailleur. Note that it's a triple. Lots of clearance with the SLX crank and BB. He loves it. I'm glad I don't have to share mine anymore.

Morgan


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## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

Can someone measure the actual chainstay length? They've got the effective on their site (16.7"/424mm) but not actual. I'm assuming it will be in the 429mm figure. Thank you.


----------



## StanleyJ (Dec 11, 2010)

stremf said:


> Can someone measure the actual chainstay length? They've got the effective on their site (16.7"/424mm) but not actual. I'm assuming it will be in the 429mm figure. Thank you.


430mm... +/-1mm... so you're spot on. However! 29ers have more bb drop compared to a similar 26er hardtail of equivalent travel, so the effective/horizontal chainstay length makes more sense... imagine you actually had a bike where the chainstay sloped down 30degs. The "chainstay" length, of the rear axle behind the bb is the adjacent side of the triangle... only a frame builder would care for the real (hypotenuse) chainstay length. In any case... the Yelli is short, where the only things short are 1x 29ers, which include the Nimble9 is you don't run a front mech. :thumbsup:


----------



## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

StanleyJ said:


> 430mm... +/-1mm... so you're spot on. However! 29ers have more bb drop compared to a similar 26er hardtail of equivalent travel, so the effective/horizontal chainstay length makes more sense... imagine you actually had a bike where the chainstay sloped down 30degs. The "chainstay" length, of the rear axle behind the bb is the adjacent side of the triangle... only a frame builder would care for the real (hypotenuse) chainstay length. In any case... the Yelli is short, where the only things short are 1x 29ers, which include the Nimble9 is you don't run a front mech. :thumbsup:


Thanks for the info, StanleyJ. The reason why I asked is, because I am trying to see if a Yelli would work running singlespeed without a tensioner. I think I read that some had success running 32x21, but I wanted to see about running a slightly bigger gear with a half-link. I like the Yelli better than the N9, as I prefer a stiffer frame. I didn't care for the sliding dropouts of the N9, either.


----------



## OneBadWagon (Mar 29, 2007)

stremf said:


> Thanks for the info, StanleyJ. The reason why I asked is, because I am trying to see if a Yelli would work running singlespeed without a tensioner. I think I read that some had success running 32x21, but I wanted to see about running a slightly bigger gear with a half-link. I like the Yelli better than the N9, as I prefer a stiffer frame. I didn't care for the sliding dropouts of the N9, either.


Buy a philcentric. That's what I used on my Yelli frame and it worked like a champ.

Mine is for sale for a very fair price.


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

dirtydoug said:


> Yeah you are going to like this bike, I am pretty sure. Super versatile and well suited for our type of riding. Ive got a 120mm REBA RLT Ti on it now, better fork overall but I do miss the maverick travel adjust.
> Here's my yelli in bikepacking mode.This is from an overnight trip of ring the peak (pike's peak) last summer.
> View attachment 680112


Hey dirtydoug, I am doing a five-day bikepacking trip on the Colorado Trail this summer, and was debating which bike to bring. Looking at your post, I guess it's obvious, bring my favorite bike! My fork is set up 110mm / 140mm, and it's a 1x10. I guess I'll go 3x10 to get low gears, and clear the chainstay. Will have Porcelain Rocket make a custom frame bag. Any advice re the Yelli Screamy as a bikepacking bike? I love the 31" bars / 60mm stem and dropper, but I wonder if they should change for this trip? Probably will keep them.

Morgan


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy Sam built his new-to-him, large purple Yelli Screamy Friday.
> 
> Morgan


Looks great! What fork is that? Revelation?


----------



## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> Looks great! What fork is that? Revelation?


Yeah, here's its full name; Rock Shox Revelation Dual-Position Air 140mm/100mm, tapered, 15mm thru-axle, black. I've got basically the same fork (Revelation XX, 2p air, 2012, 20mm thru) on my Yelli, it's a great fork.

Morgan


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## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

OneBadWagon said:


> Buy a philcentric. That's what I used on my Yelli frame and it worked like a champ.
> 
> Mine is for sale for a very fair price.


Thanks. Not sure if you're saying you've got the frame or philcentric for sale.


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

morganfletcher said:


> My boy Sam built his new-to-him, large purple Yelli Screamy Friday. He did everything, including pressing the headset cups.
> 
> Morgan


He might want to give no spacers under the stem a go for a ride or two.
It will help get some weight on the front wheel of that bike.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

singlespeeding a Yelli -- I did have mine running 32x18 for a bit (my preferred gear for a 29er) but you need a chain tensioner:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02#5734933347933533682
In fact I dont think Ive ever been able to find that "magic gear" on any of my singlespeeds, especially as if you fit a new chain it doesnt take very long before its too slack -- and Ive really hurt myself a couple of times when the chain has jumped off on an uphill :-/


----------



## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

fujiblue1 said:


> Just finished her up!! =)


nice looking bike! Care to share the frame size and weight of the bike?


----------



## plume (May 26, 2006)

someone sell me a Large frame!


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Its changed a bit now -- reba 2011 120mm with 20mm thru'
Chris king hub with Flow front and Novatech + Sun Rhinolite rear
WTB Silverado saddle 1x9 drivetrain 32x 12-36 with a SRAM X9 shifter and rear mech
Depending on tyres its about 12.5kg which is acceptable
this is more or less the latest incarnation:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1157...47023972480881/5789049892042739458?banner=pwa


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

oh and its a medium -- which I find pretty much the right size and nice and chuckable - done the bike park on it as well as XC races. I'm 5'11"
My only complaint is that the bottle boss is too high up on the down-tube and there shouldnt be any mounts on the seat-tube so you can drop the seat lower


----------



## fujiblue1 (Aug 9, 2012)

Tjay said:


> nice looking bike! Care to share the frame size and weight of the bike?


Thanks! Got the last '12 in medium. Don't have the exact weight but i guess it should be ~28lbs.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

bare frame weight was 2020g 
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02#5721626376864834162
Would highly recommend through axle fork compared with 9mm dropout. I went for the 2011 rebas because they have 20mm and also 80/100/120mm travel whereas I think the 2012 Rebas are just 80/100 Also if going for RockShox and you like in muddy conditions, change the fork wipers for Enduo ones, the RockShox ones are cut at an angle on top which slopes in to the stanchion so you always end up with a nice ring of mud or dust rubbing away at the stanchion coating!









at the bike park ... (still original RS fork wipers, and still the old wheels)









XC racing!


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Wate0rman said:


> I was told that it looks a lot different than the original look and will be SS only.


U were told wrong

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Wate0rman said:


> I was told that it looks a lot different than the original look and will be SS only.


Awesome post.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Im also running a 1.125 straight steerer fork with a zero-stack lower headset cup, this makes the head angle a bit tighter and a more nimble ride (IMHO) . Looks as if fujiblue1 is doing the same thing


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

stremf said:


> Thanks for the info, StanleyJ. The reason why I asked is, because I am trying to see if a Yelli would work running singlespeed without a tensioner. I think I read that some had success running 32x21, but I wanted to see about running a slightly bigger gear with a half-link. I like the Yelli better than the N9, as I prefer a stiffer frame. I didn't care for the sliding dropouts of the N9, either.


I run my yelli SS 32x20 with a half link and no tensioner. I've also ran it 32x19 with no tensioner without any problems. I've been running the set up since about Feb 2012, riding two to three times a week without any issues. The trick with the half link is to use a missing link to connect the narrow side so the pin can't twist out!


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

stremf said:


> Thanks for the info, StanleyJ. The reason why I asked is, because I am trying to see if a Yelli would work running singlespeed without a tensioner. *I think I read that some had success running 32x21, but I wanted to see about running a slightly bigger gear with a half-link. *I like the Yelli better than the N9, as I prefer a stiffer frame. I didn't care for the sliding dropouts of the N9, either.


I have been running a 32/21 SS on my Yelli since I got in October 2012. Has worked great--no issues, haven't dropped a chain, no slippage, rock solid.


----------



## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

cjsb said:


> I have been running a 32/21 SS on my Yelli since I got in October 2012. Has worked great--no issues, haven't dropped a chain, no slippage, rock solid.


Interesting, I am running 32/21 as well and could not get it set up without a tensioner, with or without a half link.

I'd been really focused on setting it up SS without a tensioner, but once I got it set up with a DMR STS I literally forgot all about it. Works great, no hassles, quiet...


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

grundy said:


> Interesting, I am running 32/21 as well and could not get it set up without a tensioner, with or without a half link.
> 
> I'd been really focused on setting it up SS without a tensioner, but once I got it set up with a DMR STS I literally forgot all about it. Works great, no hassles, quiet...


It's not the tightest chain but it has never slipped or come off. Stay is wrapped-no scratches.

at Post Ride: Fountainhead in Lorton, Virginia, United States - photo by cjsb - Pinkbike


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

My Yelli, been riding since late October 2012. This is such a fun bike to ride--so stoked! I have a cheapo setup of parts from another bike and some new parts:

2012 Yelli Medium (I am 5'11", fits perfect, no toe overlap). the reach is perfect for me.
Fork: Fox F29 100mm straight, G2 offset (from my other bike). Hopefully a 120 in the future, but not a priority.
Headset: Cane Creek 40 (new)
Wheels: Cheapo Bontrager 28 spoke, wheel MFG hub, SS (old). Rear Priority replacement, already truing after every other ride. Front--not a priority
Drive Train: SS, Truvativ FireX 32t chaing ring and cranks, Surly 21 T cog, magic, no tensioner. Somewhat expensive German company chain, don't recall the name. May get an SLX 1X10 over time but not a priority. SS is fun and less maintenance in winter.
Grips: Lizard Skins North Shore with odi lock ons. Perfect!
Bar: Easton EA Monkey bar, 685 mm. I tried wider but it's harder for me to get front end lift on any of my bikes with wider bars.
Stem: Thomson 70 mm (new)
Seatpost: Thomson (new)
Pedals: Wellgo MG-1. Cheap and decent grip, but I am shearing pins on rock smashes.
Tires: F Nevegal 2.3, R Maxxis beaver 2.0 for the winter. Might go to Ardent 2.4 in F and Nevegal 2.3 rear after the winter.


----------



## mountainfish (Apr 4, 2007)

I love it. Great geo conversation. But is anyone having any issues with crank clearance?


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

mountainfish said:


> I love it. Great geo conversation. But is anyone having any issues with crank clearance?


I have an slx triple. 32 tooth middle ring. No issue but man the tolerances are tight

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

I'm looking for someone near Charlotte, NC with a L or XL Yelli who'd let me throw a leg over one for a test drive... anyone?


----------



## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Tried to PM you but I guess you must have a post count of 5 or higher...I live in Charlotte and you are welcome to try mine out if you would like.


----------



## j.les (Jun 8, 2008)

Spent all evening Friday building up my YS. Saturday morning I took it to Ray's indoor park in Milwaukee to work the bugs out and get some time in the saddle. I love this bike - can't wait to get it on some dirt! It really feels like a 26". My friends who gave it a spin were equally impressed.

Some specs:

Medium frame 
Chris King hubs/Flow rims
Crampon 2 pedals
Reba u-turn 20mm
Easton Haven carbon bars
Xo shift/Der.
Chromag seat
Stylo stem
Spec. Cpt tires

photos taken by the hamster wheel at Ray's


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

Looks good.


----------



## esku (Jul 26, 2005)

Yesterday I had my first ride on it, 
I rode with a bunch of my friends that just came back from Whistler (with full energy), although I was the only HT I never felt inferior.
The bike just Rocks :drumroll: 

I had no other headset except the CC angel set 1.0' so it's there on the bike with WB 135 coil (the best fork ever), 13 kg' total as is.

I have a lot of experience with 29" HT & FS (include two N9, TM 29" and more), nothing cane be compared to it.
.


----------



## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

yelli in the snow ... got inspired by the Matt Hunter Winter Trails video thats been doing the rounds -- the snow was pretty heavy here!
MINI0004 - YouTube


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

My Yelli likes the snow too


----------



## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

savo said:


> My Yelli likes the snow too


your snow is so much better than my snow!


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

*Fun 29er*

Great handling bike, lefty set up at 110mm. Still trying to get it fine tuned, 2.4 rear tire just makes it at seatstay area. Frame on bottom of
BB was not machined deep enough for Cane Creek 110 cup to go in all the way. I did some sanding to frame with the dremil tool to remove lip, than it went nice and flush. Will have new i9 torch purple hubs and spokes with silver rims soon, the blue stuff going back to my Cannondale Flash.

Only been out 2 times so far on Screamy, I like the slacker head angle, and short chainstays. This bike is quick through the turns and loves to go down hill really fast. Not as light as the Flash, but I like it better so far. It will be a 1x10 soon!!


----------



## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

Medium purple frame available, less than 5 lbs.
Canfield Yelli Screamy (M) - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


----------



## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Can't wait to get my yelli home! Hope to have it in a few weeks.


----------



## Sin-man (Aug 25, 2008)

Hey all, I love my Yelli, but I have scarred my chainstay with the rings. Running a SRAM X-9 39/26 and an MRP guide/bash thing. I have it apart now and am planning on addding at least one spacer to the drive side BB to push things out a bit. Does anybody else have experience with that kind of thing? 
I am also touching up the paint while it's apart, I had to have a qt. mixed for me at the local hardware store!


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Sin-man said:


> Hey all, I love my Yelli, but I have scarred my chainstay with the rings. Running a SRAM X-9 39/26 and an MRP guide/bash thing. I have it apart now and am planning on addding at least one spacer to the drive side BB to push things out a bit. Does anybody else have experience with that kind of thing?
> I am also touching up the paint while it's apart, I had to have a qt. mixed for me at the local hardware store!


I had to add a 1mm spacer to my drive side to get my 32T blackspire ring to clear the chainstay. I'm running an MRP Mini G2 guide as well, with a SLX crankset and Shimano BB. My chain ring would just barely clear before I added the spacer. I found during a ride the chainring would come come in contact with the chainstay and leave a nasty gouge. I'm not sure if it was the cranks or frame that flexed enough to make contact, but the spacer corrected the problem and my bike still shifts well as a 1x9 with a full guide. Zero dropped chains in an entire season.


----------



## fujiblue1 (Aug 9, 2012)

Converted my 2x to a 1x10


----------



## Jnthomps08 (Mar 22, 2010)

Im on the prowl for a frame and/or fork. PM me if you have a medium that you want to sell soon.


----------



## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

There is a purple ano in this thread for sale in the cladsifieds


----------



## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

cpfitness said:


> There is a purple ano in this thread for sale in the cladsifieds


Here ya go, Canfield Yelli Screamy frame (M) - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


----------



## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Canfield has some small orange frames on clearance of anyone needs one.


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

I saw this on pinkbike from a few weeks ago. Might still be around. NOTE: I do not know this person and saw it while searching google for a friend since he wants a Yelli too. I have no idea if the listing or seller is legit.

Canfield Yelli Screamy Medium (sold) - Pinkbike


----------



## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Never mind, I just noticed that listing said SOLD. I must have missed that.


----------



## Hermes475 (Mar 1, 2007)

xgoodxlifex said:


> I saw this on pinkbike from a few weeks ago. Might still be around. NOTE: I do not know this person and saw it while searching google for a friend since he wants a Yelli too. I have no idea if the listing or seller is legit.
> 
> Canfield Yelli Screamy Medium (sold) - Pinkbike


This was my old frame. I am sure I will miss it but I try not to keep bikes for more than a year. Funny to click a link and unexpectedly see your own ad.


----------



## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Is anyone running a 34t or 36t Chainring on Yelli? I searched through the thread and it seems that 32t is common with some exceptions running 34t.

I recently purchased a Shimano Zee crankset that comes stock with a 36t on sale only to learn that it won't accept a 32t. I am debating whether to return it in exchange for an SLX with a triple that includes a 32t, OR buy a 34t for the ZEE and then see whether it will install with clearance.

Just wondering if there has been more recent Yelli builds with a 34t with clearance. Such an awesome bike, only challenge seems to be the crankset clearance...


----------



## hrdude (Feb 17, 2006)

Canfield Yelli Screamy frame (M) - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


----------



## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

cjsb said:


> Is anyone running a 34t or 36t Chainring on Yelli? I searched through the thread and it seems that 32t is common with some exceptions running 34t.
> 
> I recently purchased a Shimano Zee crankset that comes stock with a 36t on sale only to learn that it won't accept a 32t. I am debating whether to return it in exchange for an SLX with a triple that includes a 32t, OR buy a 34t for the ZEE and then see whether it will install with clearance.
> Just wondering if there has been more recent Yelli builds with a 34t with clearance. Such an awesome bike, only challenge seems to be the crankset clearance...


If you are running the chainring in the middle position, you will have a hard time going with anything bigger than a 32T.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

JoshM said:


> If you are running the chainring in the middle position, you will have a hard time going with anything bigger than a 32T.


Thanks. The ZEE Crankset is single ring specific, so I suppose I could space it out far enough, but the chain ring would likely be poor? Just eyeballing I don't see how a 36T could fit without a pretty poor chain line, if it fits at all. I don't want to install, uninstall and send back when it seems more likely that it won't work.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

In order to fit a 36 tooth your right you would need space it way out than your chain line would not be good at all. I have 10 speed setup with 32 tooth, I had 33 on 1st but chainline was poor and not shifting onto the 36 ring that well.

I put the 32 back on, but 1st I filed the chain stay down about 2mm in order to get a good chainline


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Get the slx. Its only 90 bucks from Jensen right now.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

dgw7000 said:


> In order to fit a 36 tooth your right you would need space it way out than your chain line would not be good at all. I have 10 speed setup with 32 tooth, I had 33 on 1st but chainline was poor and not shifting onto the 36 ring that well.
> 
> I put the 32 back on, but 1st I filed the chain stay down about 2mm in order to get a good chainline


Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll end up returning the Zee for an SLX triple, replace the outer ring with a bash. Too bad, the Zee seems like a great value, although a little heavy...I like stuff that's stout. The SLX double that has the bash, cromo axle and pedal inserts, only seems to come in 34t, which looks like a problem.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I have a old XT crank - octalink 1 - on a 118mm BB axle and I can just fit in a 32t on the middle location -- the chainline is too far out in my opinion as there is a lot of chain-cross when Im in the 36t at the back -- chainline is about 50mm which gives me a straight chain in about the 4th cog in (counting from the right). I think you would get away with a 34 on the outer position but I think that would be something like 52-53mm chain line which would be pretty poor for the most inbound cogs on the cassette. Having said all that, the chain-cross on a 11speed road bike with 410mm chainstays (compared with 425) must be pretty severe.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

If you can get a triple with 104mm BCD you would have more choice, I would actually like to run a 28 or 29 then I could get away with a 11-32 instead of a 12-36 (and because Im still on 9-speed I could get a cassette that doesnt weigh about 1lb!)


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

*Chainline*

I have 10 speed 11/36 xtr cassette, I had the bb faced on the frame that cut another 1mm off frame. No spacer on drive side at all, than filed about 1 1/2 mm off chainstay as you can see in pict. The crank is shimano slx dh version, with 32 tooth hope ring. New xt midcage with clutch derail.

When in 36 rear cog when back pedaling not smooth, so your right not the best chainline on this bike.

There has to be compromise when building a bike with short chainstays, trying to allow for big wide tire clearance. Also with that short chainstay your chain is shorter and does not flex as much as a longer chain wreaking havoc on chainline. Why most go single speed!!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

dgw7000 said:


> I have 10 speed 11/36 xtr cassette, I had the bb faced on the frame that cut another 1mm off frame. No spacer on drive side at all, than filed about 1 1/2 mm off chainstay as you can see in pict. The crank is shimano slx dh version, with 32 tooth hope ring. New xt midcage with clutch derail.
> 
> When in 36 rear cog when back pedaling not smooth, so your right not the best chainline on this bike.
> 
> There has to be compromise when building a bike with short chainstays, trying to allow for big wide tire clearance. Also with that short chainstay your chain is shorter and does not flex as much as a longer chain wreaking havoc on chainline. Why most go single speed!!


Thanks for the feedback. Yes, my Yelli has been setup as a SS using cheap parts from my old Trek Rig build. I'd like to have the ability to do 1x10, so I got the Zee when it was on sale and have now returned it in exchange for a triple SLX setup. I plan on running the SLX 1x10 like you. I have an MRP podium ring that I hope will fit on the SLX? Hopefully the outer ring on the SLX triple can be replaced with a bash guard, but it wouldn't surprise me if it doesn't. I think someone else suggested that the Yellis could use a Crankset/Chainring only thread, I agree.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Got my first ride in tonight. I am just blown away. This thing is amazing!!


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## Christopher583 (Mar 14, 2013)

Hopefully we'll get a ride report from a credible source like twentynineinches.com soon as I'd love to see how it performs


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

has anyone here gone from the Yelli to the Carver 420 Ti? I'm wondering if it has the same handling but maybe a smoother ride.


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

It's all over. I'm selling my YS to buy a new Trek Stache...


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## alexiskon (Jan 4, 2012)

Hello!

I need some advice.

Im gonna sell my ragley blue pig and set up a yelli canfield with a rock shox revelation 110-140mm fork.

I want to ask some question.

The reason that i sell my ragley is that i want a bike that would be more comfortable and better at uphills, i want to run some marathon races an do some xc races to, would yelli be better?

And of course i want it to be the same good at downhills (ragley is great at this) would yelli be as good as ragley at singeltracks and rocky trails?

Im sorry for my poor english.

Thank you!


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

What is on the back of the seat post? Captain Kirk dropper post?


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Yes I think you would find the Yelli better -- Ive never ridden a Blue Pig but I have some on-one bikes -- they are good by heavy. My yelli is about 12.5kg but thats with Rhinolite wheels and big rubber -- with XC wheels and tyres it would be about 12kg or less. I would definitely recommend a 20mm (or 15mm) thru' axle fork. I tried mine with my Fox F29s at 100m and it was not very precise in the steering, with 120mm RS Rebas at 120mm its fine.
Ive done XC races on it (with lighter wheels), a 100km marathon (thought not race) and Ive taken it to the bike park -- it goes everywhere! Its not quite the ideal XC race bike as Im running 1x9 32x12-36 but it does an OK job. 
Here's some pics:
https://plus.google.com/photos/115795269035553255174/albums/5721626302115050625


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

christopher583 said:


> hopefully we'll get a ride report from a credible source like twentynineinches.com soon as i'd love to see how it performs


lol


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## alexiskon (Jan 4, 2012)

fastfish666 said:


> Yes I think you would find the Yelli better -- Ive never ridden a Blue Pig but I have some on-one bikes -- they are good by heavy. My yelli is about 12.5kg but thats with Rhinolite wheels and big rubber -- with XC wheels and tyres it would be about 12kg or less. I would definitely recommend a 20mm (or 15mm) thru' axle fork. I tried mine with my Fox F29s at 100m and it was not very precise in the steering, with 120mm RS Rebas at 120mm its fine.
> Ive done XC races on it (with lighter wheels), a 100km marathon (thought not race) and Ive taken it to the bike park -- it goes everywhere! Its not quite the ideal XC race bike as Im running 1x9 32x12-36 but it does an OK job.
> Here's some pics:
> https://plus.google.com/photos/115795269035553255174/albums/5721626302115050625


Τhank you for your answer.

Your bike looks beautiful!

The revelation fork will be with 15mm thru axle and i will have the choice to run it as 110 or 140mm so this will be ok for races or for rocky trails.

Now im planning to buy wheels that wont be over 1700-1800 gr per pair.

I think it would be a great bike!


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

*Paid spam*

Canfield Yelli Screamy - Gold - L

Canfield Yelli Screamy - Gold - L - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

HighWest said:


> Canfield Yelli Screamy - Gold - L
> 
> Canfield Yelli Screamy - Gold - L - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


Interested in selling just the frame?


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

jkidd_39 said:


> Interested in selling just the frame?


Not yet, if I find a buyer for the fork, I could be more interested. I'll let you know.


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

120mm fork? How much? I am currently putting parts together for YS on order. Looking for a BLACK 120mm fork in the $500.00 and under range. But if good deal may go higher...


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## HighWest (Apr 7, 2009)

racerjerm said:


> 120mm fork? How much? I am currently putting parts together for YS on order. Looking for a BLACK 120mm fork in the $500.00 and under range. But if good deal may go higher...


I have a 32 TALAS 120 and a 34 TALAS 140, both cut for the Yelli. Both need to sell before the frame. PM coming.


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## DH_WILL (Mar 27, 2013)

Yes, yes, yes,


jager7 said:


> fantastic freakin name. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## racerjerm (May 8, 2008)

HighWest, PM sent


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

So I have an XL YS on pre-order and have the parts mostly ready. I've obtained a Fox 34 Float 150mm 29" (in OE black!!) as well as the parts needed to change the travel (internally) to 140mm or 130mm. At the 130mm setting, this fork has approximately the same A-C (542mm) as a 32 140mm (540) . A little math and a little trust in the geo chart and that would work out to 67d head angle, 44.8" WB, 1.8" BB drop. Seems perfect...

So what would you do? Keep it at 150 or change it to 140 or 130?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

blawson said:


> So I have an XL YS on pre-order and have the parts mostly ready. I've obtained a Fox 34 Float 150mm 29" (in OE black!!) as well as the parts needed to change the travel (internally) to 140mm or 130mm. At the 130mm setting, this fork has approximately the same A-C (542mm) as a 32 140mm (540) . A little math and a little trust in the geo chart and that would work out to 67d head angle, 44.8" WB, 1.8" BB drop. Seems perfect...
> 
> So what would you do? Keep it at 150 or change it to 140 or 130?


Depends on what kind of riding you do. I prefer mine at 140 but if can become a bit of a pain if i'm climbing all day. Bombing down hill at 140mm is might nice!


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jkidd_39 said:


> Depends on what kind of riding you do. I prefer mine at 140 but if can become a bit of a pain if i'm climbing all day. Bombing down hill at 140mm is might nice!


I'm a newb who has little skill and I love bombing down hill with a 120 mm tower pro so if you know what your doing I'm sure you will be fine on either. I've never seen a bad review for any setups of this bike.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

blawson said:


> So what would you do? Keep it at 150 or change it to 140 or 130?


I'd try it at 150, but 140 seems like a better number. I have a 110/140 and never dial it down to 110.

You will love this bike.

Morgan


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

It's probably worth trying it at 150 because that means I don't have to take it apart first... but if I know I'm going to change it, I might as well do it now while I'm waiting for the frame.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Ugh, this thread is killing me. I bought a used yelli frame in green a week ago and I have yet to find a fork for the damn thing. Need somehing with a 15mm axle and it's gotta be black! If anyone has something to sell me, I'd be forever grateful!

I'm a little worried about the size. I'm about 5'11" with a longer torso so I'm always right in between sizes. The deal I got was a little too good to pass up though.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Thread is killing me! I just bought this used and I for the life of me I can't find a used fork in black with a 15mm axle that doesn't cost a fortune. I just wanna ride my bike! If anyone has a good fork to sell me I'd be eternally grateful!!!

On another note, I am a little worried about the sizing as I am always a "tweener" at 5'11" with a long torso. Would have rather had a medium but this one came up locally and it was too good of a deal to pass up. I guess I'll just run a super short stem. Will post my build soon...I hope.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

That is a large I assume? I'm quite a bit taller than you at 6'3" with a fairly even build though probably somewhat on the long torso side of things and it fits me fine

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

cpfitness said:


> That is a large I assume? I'm quite a bit taller than you at 6'3" with a fairly even build though probably somewhat on the long torso side of things and it fits me fine
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


It is indeed a large, and the fact that you're riding it at 6'3" doesn't make me feel any better! I will have to build it and ride it first to see for myself but I hope I didn't make a big mistake.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

rusty904 said:


> Ugh, this thread is killing me. I bought a used yelli frame in green a week ago and I have yet to find a fork for the damn thing. Need somehing with a 15mm axle and it's gotta be black! If anyone has something to sell me, I'd be forever grateful!
> 
> I'm a little worried about the size. I'm about 5'11" with a longer torso so I'm always right in between sizes. The deal I got was a little too good to pass up though.


Manitou Tower 120mm 15 thru axle in black.
Manitou Tower Expert 29er 80mm/100mm/120mm Fork | Manitou | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

I have a 140mm tower pro and I love it. Price is great too


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

rusty904 said:


> It is indeed a large, and the fact that you're riding it at 6'3" doesn't make me feel any better! I will have to build it and ride it first to see for myself but I hope I didn't make a big mistake.


I'm a moron. Replying from my phone. Meant to say that I'm 6'3" and am on an XL not a large so not totally unreasonable for a large to fit you fine. I actually need a setback seat post to really get my pedaling position right as well. Again I'm closer to even proportion maybe a smidge on the long torso side of things so I suspect you will be able to fit in fine. Sorry to get you worried!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

5'11" w/ 32" inseam with a longer than avg reach. Riding large with 50mm stem and 725mm bars.

Great fit for me. Alil cramped on uphill climbs but super rad on decents. You will be fine on the large.

Agree on finding 29 forks, hard as hell to find what you want at a good price. Took me 3 months to find something with taper, 120mm, 15mm qr in a coil spring and white for under 400.


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## j.les (Jun 8, 2008)

dynamicz said:


> 5'11" w/ 32" inseam with a longer than avg reach. Riding large with 50mm stem and 725mm bars.
> 
> Great fit for me. Alil cramped on uphill climbs but super rad on decents. You will be fine on the large.


I'm the same specs as you, and I ride a medium. A large would fit me fine for a racing rig, but for what this bike is built for, a medium is perfect. I rode a large, even with a 50mm stem, I felt stretched out.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Rusty904. Check your pms for a link to a fork I am selling. $200.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Im 5'11" and went with a medium. I find it a pretty good fit with 80mm stem; Thomson 410mm seatpost is pretty much all the way out though. Its quite short, but then its my play bike not XC race bike. Try it and see -- though Id maybe suggest an inline seatpost -- thats what Im running, I found with a setback post I was really way back over the rear of the bike since the chainstays are so short


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

*bottles on 2012 YS*

I decided to ditch the camelbak and take advantage of the three water bottle bosses on my medium YS. i knew it would be tight with two bottles but not that tight! i had to get side loading cages and move my rear brake line to the side of the guide. luckily that is my only line running down the frame. to hold the non-water items I kept in the Camelbak I got a small saddle bag and a King Cage "behold" tool cage. It would be nice to have a little more room for bigger bottles but I am liking the set up.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

xgoodxlifex said:


> I decided to ditch the camelbak and take advantage of the three water bottle bosses on my medium YS. i knew it would be tight with two bottles but not that tight! i had to get side loading cages and move my rear brake line to the side of the guide. luckily that is my only line running down the frame. to hold the non-water items I kept in the Camelbak I got a small saddle bag and a King Cage "behold" tool cage. It would be nice to have a little more room for bigger bottles but I am liking the set up.
> 
> View attachment 788360
> 
> ...


Why does my xl only have 2 sets? None on the seat tube

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

cpfitness said:


> Why does my xl only have 2 sets? None on the seat tube
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Current Yelli only has 2.


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

xgoodxlifex,is that a scrunchy on your hub?Been wanting to put something on my hubs to keep them clean but have not thought of anything yet


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Kell12 said:


> xgoodxlifex,is that a scrunchy on your hub?Been wanting to put something on my hubs to keep them clean but have not thought of anything yet


I believe that is one of those survival bracelets. It's like 20yards of para cord. So if injured you could make a sling and such. Or a kite.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Kind of a random but does anyone have a good idea for re-sticking a headtube badge. Mine is starting to come off!


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

mine came off after one ride, was then afraid of loosing it altogether, so I replaced it with one of the stickers --my frame came with 2 sheets of stickers-- probably some sort of mastic would work well, but clean everything with acetone first to get old glue and any oil/grease off frame and badge


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Kell12 said:


> xgoodxlifex,is that a scrunchy on your hub?Been wanting to put something on my hubs to keep them clean but have not thought of anything yet


It's a friendship bracelet I made using neoprene. It keeps the hubs pretty and strong all year long. Anything soft and non-abrasive would work. As kids we used to make them with colored thread and put them on our BMX hubs. I lost the skills so I just braided some some strips of neoprene I got at Joann's fabrics.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Samu23el said:


> I was told that it looks a lot different than the original look and will be SS only.


It's exactly the same.

Whats that hidden link in your message spammer ?


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

cpfitness said:


> Why does my xl only have 2 sets? None on the seat tube
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


mine is the older version. Might even be a 2011 version as I bought it Feb 2012. I think Canfield Bros realized the lack of room so They removed the seat tube mounts and moved the downtube mount down so there would be room to get the in and out without as many problems. With the side loaders and 21-22 ounce bottles it works without any problems but there is no adjustablity. If I needed more then 44 ounces of water I'd have to bring my camelbak along or toss a bottle in the back of my jersey.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

rusty904 said:


> Kind of a random but does anyone have a good idea for re-sticking a headtube badge. Mine is starting to come off!


I just last night asked Steve Potts how to R&R the similar type of head badge on my WTB:



> You can easily get an exacto knife under the head badge and gently work it off, it was a double sided tape that holds it on. To reapply, just clean the badge and use a bit if silicon adhesive , not too much, ( use about the amount of a new pencil eraser). Tape or clamp it on in place overnight. Do not try to wipe off any excess that might squirt out, but peal it off after it cures, ( lightly cut along the edge with an exacto knife). Hope fully you won't put so much on that that happens, ( make sure that you apply the silicon directly in the middle of the head badge). All the best, Steve.


Hope that helps :thumbsup:


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

My badge came off too.. clean it up with alcohol. Remove all sticky stuff.. Use 3M automotive adhesive tape (ONLY 3M) and put strips of it on and trim accordingly. If done right it will stay forever. 3M tape is amazing. It keeps my gopro on drag trucks traveling 100mph down the strip and from bouncing off my helmet.

Also.. I looked at my frame.. I got 3 water bottle brackets. not that I use them.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

jkidd_39 said:


> My badge came off too.. clean it up with alcohol. Remove all sticky stuff.. Use 3M automotive adhesive tape (ONLY 3M) and put strips of it on and trim accordingly. If done right it will stay forever. 3M tape is amazing.


This. Mine came off on its second ride and it's lasted for two years since with 3M Trim tape. You can pick it up at your average auto parts store in the body section.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

My frame has 3 pairs of bottle cage mounts.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

jkidd_39 said:


> My badge came off too.. clean it up with alcohol. Remove all sticky stuff.. Use 3M automotive adhesive tape (ONLY 3M) and put strips of it on and trim accordingly. If done right it will stay forever. 3M tape is amazing. It keeps my gopro on drag trucks traveling 100mph down the strip and from bouncing off my helmet.
> 
> Also.. I looked at my frame.. I got 3 water bottle brackets. not that I use them.





car_nut said:


> This. Mine came off on its second ride and it's lasted for two years since with 3M Trim tape. You can pick it up at your average auto parts store in the body section.


You can even opt for the 3M VHB tape (very high bond) double sided tape, once it cures, it takes a lot of force to pry it off. You can pick up a few squares of it on eBay rather cheaply. Also the 3M exterior use double sided tape also works that you can get from Home Depot or Lowes.


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

JoshM said:


> My frame has 3 pairs of bottle cage mounts.


You have the 1st Generation of Yelli, like I do. The 2nd gen models removed the seat tube mounts to allow a seatpost to be slammed down further.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

*Black is the new black*

nearly done (it's an M, second hand to me and I'm sure the first owner has posted it here too in his config. 120mm, RF Atlas flat wide bars, one 5mm spacer, 70mm stem, 1x10 but I'll likely SS it, Reverb, 27lbs inc pedals)

I bought the forks @140mm but couldn't get the bars low enough, that was before I had the flats tho.

The tyres will change.


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

Just finished my Yelli build Friday.
27.8lbs.

This bike rocks!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Working on finishing up the build, just messing with getting my Shimano Saint 22/36 crankset to work w/o hitting chainstay. 

Build:

XL Black Chrome
Manitou Tower PRO 120mm Tapered w/15mm QR
Cane Creek 40 Headset
Shimano Saint Crankset 22/36
SRAM X9 Shifters
SRAM X9 RD
Shimano SLX FD
Shimano 1091 12-36 Cassette
XTR Brakes 203f 185r
Thompson Post and Stem
Answer Pro Taper Handlebar
ODI Rogue Grips
KMC X10 Chain
CK ISO Hubs Laced to FLOW EX
Specialized Purg 2.4 (f) 2.2 (r) Tubeless
Old Spesh Saddle

28 lbs as listed.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

swildnm said:


> This bike rocks!


I'm just starting to get with the handling. It has a sort of instant cornering system - on my other 29ers I plot a course around a curve, almost with waypoints. On the Yelli, I think "I want to be there ->" and it seems I am, with nothing happening in between.


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

Those weights are encouraging. I will be moving all the stuff from my Cobia over to the Yelli when it comes in (with the exception of the stuff that doesn't fit). I have no idea the weight of the bare frame, but I am hoping they are close.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

I was pleased, considering the wheels aren't the lightest, there's a dropper on there and the bars are mahoosive. (1x10 tho).

Some people in the UK like 'burly' HTs, I was expecting the Yelli to come out that way but it didn't, it was a pleasant surprise.


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

ghetto said:


> I'm just starting to get with the handling. It has a sort of instant cornering system - on my other 29ers I plot a course around a curve, almost with waypoints. On the Yelli, I think "I want to be there ->" and it seems I am, with nothing happening in between.


I noticed the same thing, it is also more stable when creeping through rock gardens, on my old XC oriented ride I was wobbling to stay upright and navigate. The Yelli just goes where I point it, no wobbling, that my be a function of having a slightly shorter stem. 70mm on my XC bike, 50 on the YS, handlebar is the same.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

That bike corners very fast - which means I go straighter faster for longer on a local fast trail. I can see myself getting into trouble leaving cornering too late.

Fun though!


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## YRG (Feb 26, 2012)

*Must be crazy!*

Well, pulled the trigger on one of the yelli's coming through this week. I haven't ridden a hard tail since there was a choice. Looks like I'm going all in, since my gf will be getting my TRc and this will be the only pedal bike I have.
WTF am I doing?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

YRG said:


> Well, pulled the trigger on one of the yelli's coming through this week. I haven't ridden a hard tail since there was a choice. Looks like I'm going all in, since my gf will be getting my TRc and this will be the only pedal bike I have.
> WTF am I doing?


You've got to answer that question after you get it and ride it. I bet I know the answer.

Morgan


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

HTs are fun, you'll be good.


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

swildnm,
I have the tower pro 100 and my BB is to low.Is that a tower pro 120 what is your BB height?


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

Kell12 said:


> swildnm,
> I have the tower pro 100 and my BB is to low.Is that a tower pro 120 what is your BB height?


 Yes, it is the 120mm Tower. Not sure what the BB height is, I'll measure it when I get a chance.

12" from bottom of BB to the ground, unsagged


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

That would be about 12 3/4"' to the center.


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

swildnm,
do you also have an external cup headset bottom?
I will put an EC headset to get the BB up some. The clearance you have is what I am used to.Trying to figure out if I want to go with 170 vs 175 crank arms or 120 travel fork.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

I have 170mm cranks on a 120mm fork medium frame.

Pedal strikes are not a problem on my rooty trails.

What do you need to know specifically?


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the pedal clearance I need with only have to buy
one component.I think the fork travel is the way to go.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

ghetto said:


> I have 170mm cranks on a 120mm fork medium frame.
> 
> Pedal strikes are not a problem on my rooty trails.
> 
> What do you need to know specifically?


175 mm cranks, 120mm tower pro and I'm not using an external cup lower. No major issues for me

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

I just went out to the shop and measured mine.. 140mm Tower pro. Unsagged. I am at 12.5" from center of BB. I only get pedal strikes for poor form. I have 175mm cranks.

No issues thus far.. spent last night trying to outrun a dang fast DH guy on a Canfield The one and I was pushing hard and fast and wasn't having any issues even when i got the pedals the wrong way on fast rocky stuff.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

Getting there (34:19 with a new chain on 170mm cranks, I expect to have to fit a tensioner soon).


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

yes, its ant external cup CC40 part#40.ec49 if I remember correctly, 12mm stack height, I'm using a 175mm crank. I blame pedal strikes on my poor form, which I have in abundance.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

anyone know where I can get a spare mech hanger from pls? (in the UK ideally). Is it a generic part?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

The only place I know of is direct from Canfield. I ordered a Wheels Mfg one a year ago that looked identical, but it was just different enough to not fit. Maybe they've come out with one since then.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

OK thx.

The bike worked well as a singlespeed, for anyone who is thinking of it.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The bike works best as single speed, I set it up both ways.


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## swildnm (Aug 23, 2012)

dgw7000 said:


> The bike works best as single speed, I set it up both ways.


I just wish I worked well enough for a SS. Until them it works just fine for me 1x10.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

I can imagine that the Yelli would make a killer singlespeed. With the short rear center and longish front center (140mm fork), it lends itself to standing climbing better to than sit-and-spin.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Yes, that is my thought also. Plus it makes for a lighter bike, mine was 22.9 single speed with lefty carbon strut. Its 24.6 now 1x10. My Cannondale Flash is single now, but going to make Yelli single and Flash 1x10 with sram xx1 crank. Great crank for 260.00!!


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

@evasive: spot on (that's British for 'exactly right')

Also I saw earlier on this thread talk of maximum chainring size, I bought mine second hand and it came with a Hope 34T (on the middle position of an XT triple), most people say a 32T is maximum. I compared my Hope to an On One 32T and they are the same diameter, but the Hope teeth are not so tall (or the cutaway is not so deep). So if someone needs a 34T ring, try Hope, like this: Chain Ring - Chain Ring


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

here's a pic with the graphics rubbed off. This is only partially successful, there is still the feint outline of the graphics on the frame, and on the NDS I rubbed through to the raw frame trying to get rid of the big C of Canfield. I'll probably need to touch that up with a little paint. It still looks better than with the logos I think.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Went out on the trails for the first time with this beast.

I am just coming off a full winter of fatbiking, so this thing is a little rocket right now.


005 by jonshonda187, on Flickr

Overcast weather = b&w


009 by jonshonda187, on Flickr


011 by jonshonda187, on Flickr


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

After telling my LBS what headset to order, going in a month in advance to make sure they get it in time, double checking that they know which one to order, confirming that they got it a few days in advance, I drop the frame off to have them press it in... and they ordered the wrong one. $#&%! They ordered an EC49/30 lower instead of an EC49/40 lower.

So for Cane Creek 110 is the crown race the only difference between these two? It looks like this is the case but CC does not seem to publish exploded view / parts lists for their headset assemblies. Can anyone confirm this?


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)




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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

^^ Very pretty that green.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

blawson said:


> So for Cane Creek 110 is the crown race the only difference between these two?


Correct.


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

ghetto said:


> here's a pic with the graphics rubbed off. This is only partially successful, there is still the feint outline of the graphics on the frame, and on the NDS I rubbed through to the raw frame trying to get rid of the big C of Canfield. I'll probably need to touch that up with a little paint. It still looks better than with the logos I think.


What did you use?


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

92gli said:


> Correct.


I called Cane Creek and they confirmed this - that is, that an EC49 lower cup allows you to run tapered or straight steerer forks with no change except for the crown race. This is a neat feature if you wanted to be able to switch between forks.

Anyway, Cane Creek has excellent customer service, they offered to send me the correct crown race on the spot and I'll have it tomorrow. They might have just won a customer for life. Made in NC, y'all.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

@eurospek Acetone based nail varnish remover


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The Cane Creek 110 is the best headset you can buy, sorry Chris King!!


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

anyone using easton haven on their yelli?
how do you like them
do they hold up good?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

tartosuc said:


> anyone using easton haven on their yelli?
> how do you like them
> do they hold up good?


I don't personally run them on my bike, but I have heard mixed reviews about the rear hubs on the Easton wheelsets. What are you looking for out of a wheelset? Light? Strong? Cheap?


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

Lightest possible and still strong
If itss cheap good, i know the rule you cant get all 3 but with internet specials you can get good price.

I'm use to heavier wheelset like charger expert, mavic crossline etc...
Haven looks interesting but like you said there are mixed reviews about the hubs...but it seems to be about the first year production..there are 2012 models for sale at the moment that are interresting.

i use my yelli as my go to, do it all xc/trail(90%) am (10%) . Being also a downhiller i dont stop on the bigger stuff either when it shows up on the trail so small drops and jumps will also happens....that said i still ride fairly smooth as i dont break a lot of parts.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

I'd look at loaded wheels. There signature AMXC wheels are super strong and reasonably priced. I have charger pros and they are pretty much bomb proof for me @ 280lbs


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

jkidd_39 said:


> I'd look at loaded wheels. There signature AMXC wheels are super strong and reasonably priced. I have charger pros and they are pretty much bomb proof for me @ 280lbs


i'm looking between easton haven and charger pro as i found good sales on the 2012 model..loaded is out of my budget for now.
i already have a set of charger expert on my full sus that are fine, but the haven are lighter and that is attracting me... would like


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

tartosuc said:


> i'm looking between easton haven and charger pro as i found good sales on the 2012 model..loaded is out of my budget for now.
> i already have a set of charger expert on my full sus that are fine, but the haven are lighter and that is attracting me... would like


What is your budget? Iirc they are like $600 a set from my lbs


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

I can get the haven for 497 delivered to my door and the charger for 478 canadian $

Loaded componnts are harder to get here


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

The Easton Haven are "noddles" and hubs do not last. They look good, that's it!!!


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Get a set of DT Swiss 340 hubs on ebay new the set is about 200.00, than get Stans Arch EX rims with DT Swiss Comp spokes with alloy nips. My wheel builder charges 50.00 bucks to build. Great wheel-set, I did this for my brother but I used Stans Flow rims. There great wheels, we also used blue nips. They look great, the hubs are so smooth.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

A few picts!!


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

I recommend American classic all mountain,light and strong


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

the stokage continues. love this bike.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

HVskier said:


> Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


Have you tried the wolftooth chain ring? It has the thick/thin tooth like the XX1 chain ring.
104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcycling.com
I'm using a 30T on my Blur. Its only been a couple of rides but so far so good.
Also, I think if you take the cover off you can adjust the clutch tension


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

Had no problem with a Hope 34T single, middle position of an XT crank, and a Superstar chain guide like this: Superstar Components - High Spec Parts For Peanuts


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

I'm running X9/32T Bling Ring, MPR BB Mount guide and X0 Type 2 RD, no issies at all.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

HVskier said:


> Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


About 6 weeks ago I setup my Yelli 1x10 with an SLX Triple and shadow plus. No problems at all. In fact, I am blown away by how the plus keeps the chain on and reduces slap. Have you checked the chain length? Also, I read a review of the Plus, maybe on Pinkbike o Bike Radar, where they described how the tension on the clutch can be adjusted, that might be an option to look at?

My setup is really straight forward: SLX triple, using only the middle ring 32t, one drive side spacer, and an 8 year old RaceFace bashguard. No chain guide. I ride drops rock gardens, and sections of trail covered in tree roots, never lost chain.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

SLX 1x10, XT Shadow Plus, original 32t chainring and I had a few drops, but probably my fault(always seemed to happen at the end of a long bumpy downhill where i didnt pedal much).

Now I have the MRP AMG BB guide...no drops whatsoever.


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## marc927 (May 18, 2012)

@HVskier 
No issues with this setup 1X10- 30T MRP Bling Ring on X9 Cranks using the MRP AMG BB mounted Guide. I have a regular (non clutch) XT rear derailleur and XT cassette, sram chain. Chain line is perfect and no drops.

On my previous ride with a 1X9 setup, I used the N Gear Jump stop guide for the inside guide and a Race Face 34T bash on a 32T ring with no issues either.

Maybe you need to remove a link or two from your chain since it has stretched some?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

HVskier said:


> Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


Good replies to your post. I run a similar setup; short-cage SRAM X9 rear derailleur, 11-36 10spd SRAM cassette, 32T ring up front, MRP 1X guide, SLX cranks. Nothing special. I do sometimes get chain drop on the front, but it's pretty uncommon. I never got chain drop when I had one less link in the chain. In the previous chain length, in 32-36 the rear derailleur's pulleys were just about horizontal, and it was tight! With the most recent chain I've gone one link longer, because I didn't like having such a tight chain, but I do occasionally drop. Seems like the more the ring wears, the more likely the drop. Will probably go XX1 at some point. (I am a SRAM guy.) Only thing I'd add to the suggestions already offered is to make sure that your derailleur hanger is aligned with the right tool. A lot of people ride with a hanger slightly out of plane, and it will definitely cause dropped chains, even on the front. A bent tooth on the front or a bent link can also lead to it, although you say you've gone through chain rings. And a bad chainline could also cause it. It's hard to get the front ring not dead center with modern cranks and bb's, but is it dead center on your rear cassette? Lastly I have my MRP 1X guide down very snug on the front ring, as low as I can, and I let the chain rub a little on the guide when it was new, so that it would "self-clearance" the plastic. The lower the better for a guide.

Morgan


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

marc927 said:


> @HVskier
> No issues with this setup 1X10- 30T MRP Bling Ring on X9 Cranks using the MRP AMG BB mounted Guide. I have a regular (non clutch) XT rear derailleur and XT cassette, sram chain. Chain line is perfect and no drops.
> 
> On my previous ride with a 1X9 setup, I used the N Gear Jump stop guide for the inside guide and a Race Face 34T bash on a 32T ring with no issues either.
> ...


Another vote for 1x10

I'm running X0 cranks, 32t bling ring, mrp 1x, and an X9 type II derailleur, short cage. Works great, almost never drop.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Hate to do this but if anyone has a medium frame or complete they'd like to part with I have a buddy who is extremely interested. PM me!


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## ziprace (Apr 30, 2009)

HVskier said:


> Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


 is your freehub old, dirty inside or bearings too tight? heavy drag inside a freehub, when coasting, will cause the chain on top to loosen and flop.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

rusty904 said:


> Another vote for 1x10.


1xX feels natural for this bike (tho I am singlespeeding now and that feels right too).

I guess Canfield agree, since the FD mount on the new Nimble 9 is removable. I'd like to do that on my Yelli too.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

HVskier said:


> Anybody have issues with chain retention running 1X10? I'm running a 32t ring on a standard triple crank. Things started out great with standard xt shadow rd and shimano middle ring. Since then I've been thru several combos of rings, guides and added a shadow plus rd and its been a struggle to keep the chain on. Current config is a Paul direct mount guide, XT crank with race face single 32t ring and XT shadow plus. The latest issue seems to be that the clutch is either not working or not tight enough and it wants to throw the chain off. Really getting frustrated with it.


Sounds like the chain is too long. And I'll bet that your Paul top guide isn't low enough.

Bottom guide is key IMO. Been running an MRP top with a stinger on the bottom for a while and have never had a drop.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

rusty904 said:


> Hate to do this but if anyone has a medium frame or complete they'd like to part with I have a buddy who is extremely interested. PM me!


Yesterday Canfield posted on their website a medium orange ano demo in great shape for 450

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> Yesterday Canfield posted on their website a medium orange ano demo in great shape for 450
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


I am having an extremely hard time NOT buying it!!!


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

My Black Chrome YS large frame shipped today. Was after a blue one but they were out. Black chrome is a solid second best =P

Using an X-Fusion Slide front fork at Canfield's recommendation. It's a 120mm travel fork with tapered head tube and 15mm TA.

Drivetrain is 1x10. A combination of SRAM X.7, X.9, and MRP parts with a 30t chainring and 11-36 cassette.

Really looking forward to getting this built. I have boo bike at the moment and there trails that need riding.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Still struggling with keeping my chain on...replaced the chain and shortened it so its 2 links+power link over the big sprocket combo. I did find out that although the old chain didn't seem too worn I now need a new cassette as I did get some skipping in my favorite gears with the new chain. We'll see what happens with the new cassette. 

Also, I'm gonna ditch the paul guide and try the MRP 1x. The paul seems really flexy and prone to jamming, just not impressed with it. If all of this fixes things I think I will still add a narrow/wide tooth ring.

Free hub seems fine and the hanger should be fine I think...cant remember any incidents that would have bent it.


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## YRG (Feb 26, 2012)

HVskier said:


> Still struggling with keeping my chain on...replaced the chain and shortened it so its 2 links+power link over the big sprocket combo. I did find out that although the old chain didn't seem too worn I now need a new cassette as I did get some skipping in my favorite gears with the new chain. We'll see what happens with the new cassette.
> 
> Also, I'm gonna ditch the paul guide and try the MRP 1x. The paul seems really flexy and prone to jamming, just not impressed with it. If all of this fixes things I think I will still add a narrow/wide tooth ring.
> 
> Free hub seems fine and the hanger should be fine I think...cant remember any incidents that would have bent it.


ended up running a full guide (mrp micro), no issues no problems so far. Was going to run a 1x but they didn't have one when I was ordering. I guess I don't care enough about the weight to change it.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

YRG said:


> ended up running a full guide (mrp micro), no issues no problems so far. Was going to run a 1x but they didn't have one when I was ordering. I guess I don't care enough about the weight to change it.


I'll be running the Micro on my 1x build as well. Good to hear.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

@HVSkier a clutch rear mech may help


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

I'm running an MRP 1X on my Yelli and have never dropped a chain.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

finally a ride with no chain issues. New cassette and a mrp 1x were the final pieces. I was already running a shadow+ but that also needed some adjustment and maintenance. I'm pretty impressed with the 1x direct mount guide.


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

My MRP 1x direct mount was great at keeping the chain on, never a dropped chain. I am now running Wolf Tooth 32t and x9 type 2 and have the same success. White MRP 1x for sale in the classifieds.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

Crappy night picks of my Yelli. Finished it Saturday night. Towed my son in his Burly around town today. Tomorrow morning will visit some hills


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Do you have the burley with the rear triangle mount? Mine has the qr mount and doesn't work on the dropout.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

How do you like the X-Fusion? I love my Tower Expert 100mm but I am thinking about upgrading to a tapered/15mm/120mm setup. I am just not sure if I can justify spending more money for another fork.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

The white brothers loop is really good. Great small bump compliance, easy to service. And it's adjustable from 80 to 120.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Just ordered YS last week - will be a little wait for it to get to UK
I've got a Rockshox revelation fork waiting for it - this came as 140mm - is it worth trying it out like this, or take down to 120mm now?
Also, do flat bars go best, or anyone using risers? and stem length?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

arclarke said:


> Just ordered YS last week - will be a little wait for it to get to UK
> I've got a Rockshox revelation fork waiting for it - this came as 140mm - is it worth trying it out like this, or take down to 120mm now?
> Also, do flat bars go best, or anyone using risers? and stem length?


I'm running whisky carbon riser bars with a spank 30mm stem. I think you will find most yelli guys running short stems with wide bars. A more am type feel.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

arclarke said:


> Just ordered YS last week - will be a little wait for it to get to UK
> I've got a Rockshox revelation fork waiting for it - this came as 140mm - is it worth trying it out like this, or take down to 120mm now?
> Also, do flat bars go best, or anyone using risers? and stem length?


Leave it at 140 to start with. Plenty of guys running 140 forks on this bike and happy with it

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

jonshonda said:


> Do you have the burley with the rear triangle mount? Mine has the qr mount and doesn't work on the dropout.


I'm using the QR mount. Just put an appropriate washer behind it and it works well.



evan9r said:


> How do you like the X-Fusion? I love my Tower Expert 100mm but I am thinking about upgrading to a tapered/15mm/120mm setup. I am just not sure if I can justify spending more money for another fork.


So far I like it but I've not had a chance to push it hard. Just pulling the Burley all day Sunday with the fork locked out and then today on a pretty light ride in the hills. Still it has performed perfectly.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

Here is my build but I just added a Fox Doss Dropper and some prologo grips. I am running a blackspire 32t but been thinking of going to at least a 30t. I ride alot of steep climbs and running 1x10 is a killer!


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

arclarke said:


> Just ordered YS last week - will be a little wait for it to get to UK
> I've got a Rockshox revelation fork waiting for it - this came as 140mm - is it worth trying it out like this, or take down to 120mm now?
> Also, do flat bars go best, or anyone using risers? and stem length?


My build for Surrey Hills messing about/XC is a medium with 120mm Revs, 800mm flat bars (Nukeproof Warhead from CRC, £25), 60mm stem, Reverb, Arch Ex. 10-15mm of spacers below the stem at the moment.

Flat vs risers is entirely down to fit and preference. If you're shorter and need to get the bars down, obviously flats help. But I'm also finding with more time on the bike I'm running the bars higher, the fit is more comfy for XC (without any real downside), and effective as soon as the trail points down.

Had it a couple of months, am still fettling, this bike is lots of fun. I may experiment with more travel, I wouldn't bother with less.

Don't judge fit by a short car park run, bikes of this geometry come alive as soon as the trail gets twisty or down.

120mm works very well but if your forks are currently at 140mm I'd say give it a go, possibly with a shorter stem, and see if you like it.

Where are you?


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

BlueDragonX said:


> Crappy night picks of my Yelli. Finished it Saturday night. Towed my son in his Burly around town today. Tomorrow morning will visit some hills


Liking that raw finish, some daylight pics please!


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

I'm running a 30t MRP Bling Ring. In my current shape I couldn't handle a 32t on the hills around here. Maybe in a couple of months but I find the top end on the 30t to work well for me as well.


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## Clink (Oct 29, 2006)

How tall are you ghetteo, on the medium?


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I'm in forest of dean. I'm definitely tempted to try out at 140mm first, surprised you don't have the bars as low as possible with a long fork 29er - I currently have a 100mm 29er and flat bars on 80mm stem - all old bendy XC stuff, so not quite up to the YS. Clearly I have some riding and fettling to do.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

BlueDragonX said:


> I'm running a 30t MRP Bling Ring. In my current shape I couldn't handle a 32t on the hills around here. Maybe in a couple of months but I find the top end on the 30t to work well for me as well.


Does it look like the 32t would fit the chainstays OK? I saw another thread questioning whether XX1 fitted with 32t.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Looks nice, except for the fact that you don't seem to have the crown race seated properly and the fork installed all the way into the HT, or at least that's what it looks like from your photo.


BlueDragonX said:


> Crappy night picks of my Yelli. Finished it Saturday night. Towed my son in his Burly around town today. Tomorrow morning will visit some hills


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

arclarke said:


> Does it look like the 32t would fit the chainstays OK? I saw another thread questioning whether XX1 fitted with 32t.


Here is a pic of my setup. 32T/X9. Probably too tight, but I haven't had any problems so far.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

cbd5600 said:


> Here is a pic of my setup. 32T/X9. Probably too tight, but I haven't had any problems so far.
> 
> View attachment 807324


I am also fitting a 32t on my yelli. It's tight but doable


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

cbd5600 said:


> Here is a pic of my setup. 32T/X9. Probably too tight, but I haven't had any problems so far.
> 
> View attachment 807324


Thanks - doesn't look too tight - should be fine so long as teeth don't touch chainstay


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

ghetto said:


> Liking that raw finish, some daylight pics please!


It's the Black Chrome, actually, but here's a dirty daylight picture from Monday:












arclarke said:


> Does it look like the 32t would fit the chainstays OK? I saw another thread questioning whether XX1 fitted with 32t.


I can't speak to the XX1 as I've not seen one in person.



LyNx said:


> Looks nice, except for the fact that you don't seem to have the crown race seated properly and the fork installed all the way into the HT, or at least that's what it looks like from your photo.


I was actually double checking everything this morning and noticed the race wasn't seated all the way. I'll be fixing that.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

@clink 172cm, I'm on One Cog, see the black one with decals removed. I'm in Surrey if you want a try out.

@arclarke I started long and low but I think higher and shorter is working well, and is what the designers had in mind. I'm coming round to it, having ridden XC bikes for ages. This fit is comfy, works with wide bars and the bikes comes alive as soon as the trail is down or twisty. Maybe it sacrifices a few % of maximum XC power output. Who cares, this is a fun bike. I can imagine it being spot on for the FOD.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

Regarding chainrings folks I have a Hope 34T on the middle of an XT triple chainset and it fits. I compared it to an On One 32T and they are about the same diameter, so how that works I don't know, I think the teeth of the Hope are shallower.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

Got the headset issue sorted. The lower race is now seated all the way to the crown. Had to recut the steerer tube to fit. This was my first time assembling a headset so I was prepared to learn a thing or two =P


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

ParkTools.com: The Leading Park Tool Site on the Net, can't be beat and you know you can trust the instructions, unlike some stuff you find on You Tube :skep: Search about this site in the tools section and pick up some of the DYI home made tools instead of spending big coin on the production stuff.


BlueDragonX said:


> Got the headset issue sorted. The lower race is now seated all the way to the crown. Had to recut the steerer tube to fit. This was my first time assembling a headset so I was prepared to learn a thing or two =P


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Few more months and I'll be at 2 years with mine. Best 29" bmx bike ever :thumbsup:

Lots of changes since I first got it. Here's the current setup, 25 lbs as shown -

WB Loop at 100mm
Cane creek 40
Forte carbon bars, bontrager rxl stem
Stans 355 front and arch rear with Kings, rear bolt on.
Nic 2.25 front (backwards), ground control 2.3 rear
30t extralite ring on old xt cranks, stinger, mrp top guide, x9 10 speed, XX cassette, 1070 chain, 540 pedals
XT brakes
Syntace hi flex post (best post ever ! Had a bad crash last week that totally mangled my seat rails and the post is fine)
Forte XFR pro seat (new - feels great so far for $60)


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

LyNx said:


> ParkTools.com: The Leading Park Tool Site on the Net, can't be beat and you know you can trust the instructions, unlike some stuff you find on You Tube :skep: Search about this site in the tools section and pick up some of the DYI home made tools instead of spending big coin on the production stuff.


Thanks for the link! Yeah, most of what I've found online seems pretty sketchy and never a torque wrench in sight. It's somewhat disappointing.

Anyways, it's all good now. Rode it again this morning after the fix and all is well.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

How does the Yelli ride with a 140mm fork?
I currently have a reba that is set to 120mm but it has a straight steerer and QR drop-outs. Saw a good price for a 140mm Revelation Dual Position that is tapered and 15mm TA. Wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade the fork? Any thoughts?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> How does the Yelli ride with a 140mm fork?
> I currently have a reba that is set to 120mm but it has a straight steerer and QR drop-outs. Saw a good price for a 140mm Revelation Dual Position that is tapered and 15mm TA. Wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade the fork? Any thoughts?


I have a manitou tower pro 140mm 15mm thru axle. Upgrading to the thru axle should be reason enough. Really depends on what kind of riding you do. I can climb as well on a 140 as on a 120 so that's a push. The little extra is really nice to soak up the rocks and roots we have around here.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

It rides great. I had a fox 34 talas 140-110 on my Yelly and never felt the need to lower it. Now I converted the Talas to Float 150mm, had only a first ride but I'm positive it will ride even better.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

yeah I was mainly thinking of the benefit from the TA and the tapered headtube. Its a dual position fork so I guess I can always lower it to 110 on extended climbs.
pretty sure I'm going to pick up this fork.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

92gli - how do you like the WB loop? Considering picking one up, but there are not a lot of reviews out there.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

pwu_1 said:


> yeah I was mainly thinking of the benefit from the TA and the tapered headtube. Its a dual position fork so I guess I can always lower it to 110 on extended climbs.
> pretty sure I'm going to pick up this fork.


The only thing that bothers me about that fork is the dual position. I have never seen them as a good fork for reliability.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

AOK said:


> 92gli - how do you like the WB loop? Considering picking one up, but there are not a lot of reviews out there.


It's the most hassle free fork I've ever had. Doesn't lose a bit of air pressure, even over months. Very easy to service. Easy to change the travel but not quite as easy as the clip in spacers in RS forks (WB uses a pin that you have to hammer in and out of the shaft). Small bump compliance is great.

The two minor drawbacks are that it makes squish sounds on compression instead of rebound. And you have to punch your wheel to get the axle out of the fork. I don't notice either thing any more.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

Off topic, but what's up with hammering pins into shafts to change travel? I believe I am correct in saying that X-fusion forks have this and also the new Fox forks. 

Not making a judgement that it is bad, but it seems more complicated than the clip-on spacer approach. Wondering what the advantage is...


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

savo said:


> It rides great. I had a fox 34 talas 140-110 on my Yelly and never felt the need to lower it. Now I converted the Talas to Float 150mm, had only a first ride but I'm positive it will ride even better.


what stem length are you using?


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Yes, you are correct X-Fusion also uses the pin system - I guess it's a bit more of a secure method of having the adjustment over using a snap on spacer. Fox also has spacers AFAIK that you can use to snap on to adjust travel - I just serviced my F34 and moved the pic up to the 150mm setting, but may lower it back down, but I'll use a 10mm snap on spacer instead of moving the pin, makes life a lot easier and faster.


AOK said:


> Off topic, but what's up with hammering pins into shafts to change travel? I believe I am correct in saying that X-fusion forks have this and also the new Fox forks.
> 
> Not making a judgement that it is bad, but it seems more complicated than the clip-on spacer approach. Wondering what the advantage is...


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

I need new tires for my yell.

Maxxis Ardent or schwalbe hans dampf?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Jonesy22 said:


> I need new tires for my yell.
> 
> Maxxis Ardent or schwalbe hans dampf?


I'm running a Bronson 2.3 up front and a tioga psycho genius in back. Love it thus far


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Tires?
That must depend on where you ride, in what sort of conditions.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

perttime said:


> Tires?
> That must depend on where you ride, in what sort of conditions.


I am running psycho genius now but feel like I need a beefier tire that can corner better. I don't have alot of confidence in them after wiping out a few times.

I'm in ohio and ride around roots and some rocks. Trails depend on season but mostly dry except for parts on trail that never really dries. Do alot of climbing


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Jonesy22 said:


> I am running psycho genius now but feel like I need a beefier tire that can corner better. I don't have alot of confidence in them after wiping out a few times.
> 
> I'm in ohio and ride around roots and some rocks. Trails depend on season but mostly dry except for parts on trail that never really dries. Do alot of climbing


Genius on the back or front? I have the genius in back and put it on backwards. Much better grip when climbing and cornering.


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## Jonesy22 (Mar 21, 2011)

I have theming both front and back. 
I can get a set of Hans for 100


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Well for what it's worth I'm running the Bronson up front and if you like to lean the bike over then the Bronson is a great choice. I'm in Arkansas and we have tons of Chet rock corners. So if you can rail here in this soft trash you can ride anywhere.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I have the hans dampf on the front wheel - got it for running tubeless on rocky trails - and it's been good, & seals perfectly on stans rim. But better, as the UK summer rainy season starts is how good it is on mud and wet roots.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I have always been a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 kind of guy, on Flows, but recently I've been riding with a Hans Dampf Pacestar 2.35 Snakeskin on the back of my Tallboy, on an Arch rim, and I am totally sold. It's my new favorite tire. I think the Yelli will get Hans Dampfs. Interestingly, after over a year of hard, frequent riding the casing on the 2.4 Ardents has little white Stans scars bleeding through in consistent patterns, left and right, front and rear on my Yelli. The 2.4 Ardent works tubeless, but the casing will fail before the tread will, in my experience. I'll snap a photo of it. It hasn't failed yet but seeing all the Stans scars on the outside of the casing isn't confidence-inspiring.

Morgan


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

I had a lot of Stans coming through on my Specialized control casing tires. Spesh says to use twice the amount of Stans on the control casing, cuz its gonna leak through.

Regardless, here is a pic after a muddy ride today


004 by jonshonda187, on Flickr


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## bervin (Jan 9, 2011)

Been running the Hans on the front of my Yelli for 6 months now and love it. I am sure there are lighter and cheaper, but none more confidence inspiring!!!


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Sunday morning rides in Woodville.


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## elroyj (Apr 3, 2011)

Just swapped to a 1x10 from SS. Gonna take a bit of getting used to, but working pretty well so far


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

thx for the pics chaps, I'll get some soon



elroyj said:


> Just swapped to a 1x10 from SS. Gonna take a bit of getting used to, but working pretty well so far


yeah I did that too, first ride out on gears ... chain break. f*****g gears.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Don't blame bad mech work or bad shifting on the parts 


ghetto said:


> thx for the pics chaps, I'll get some soon
> 
> yeah I did that too, first ride out on gears ... chain break. f*****g gears.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I should have stated that these Ardents have a lot of hours and miles on them, and are probably nearing the end of their lives. The sealant scars on the casing reflect how much flex and rubber loss and casing wear has occurred. They only appeared recently, after about a year's use.

Morgan


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

morganfletcher said:


> I have always been a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 kind of guy, on Flows, but recently I've been riding with a Hans Dampf Pacestar 2.35 Snakeskin on the back of my Tallboy, on an Arch rim, and I am totally sold. It's my new favorite tire. I think the Yelli will get Hans Dampfs. Interestingly, after over a year of hard, frequent riding the casing on the 2.4 Ardents has little white Stans scars bleeding through in consistent patterns, left and right, front and rear on my Yelli. The 2.4 Ardent works tubeless, but the casing will fail before the tread will, in my experience. I'll snap a photo of it. It hasn't failed yet but seeing all the Stans scars on the outside of the casing isn't confidence-inspiring.
> 
> Morgan


Hans Dampf > Ardent? Huh, I was just thinking about going Ardent. Are your Ardents EXO?
I like the Specialized tires that I've been running but they aren't holding up. I just cut (another) sidewall recently, in JMP - not exactly sure how that happened.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

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## senorjax (Aug 20, 2012)

Cross post from the Canfield forum but I just finished this build and got it on the trail. Haven't seen anyone post up a red frame yet. Like it a lot. The bike and the color.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

My Yelli build not going so well. Have now managed to fit seat post clamp round slightly oval shaped seat post, and hit problem with chainring and chainstay yoke. This is a 32T Wolftooth direct mount GXP type - so no chainline adjustment, is standard 50mm. Both Canfield and Wolftooth said it should fit - maybe it should, but the chainstay yoke isn't parallel to the chainring and is 2mm further out at the top than the bottom, which is enough to clash with the teeth on the ring.
The chainring does a great job of keeping the chain on so don't want to go back to shallow teeth and chain device, and just downsized from 34T as I knew that wouldn't fit, but was good gear range for terrain here.
Would like to just get on and ride this bike - do I file down the chainstay yoke, or alternatively get the LHS bottom bracket faced down a couple more mm so the whole crankset can mover further to the right?


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

arclarke said:


> My Yelli build not going so well. Have now managed to fit seat post clamp round slightly oval shaped seat post, and hit problem with chainring and chainstay yoke. This is a 32T Wolftooth direct mount GXP type - so no chainline adjustment, is standard 50mm. Both Canfield and Wolftooth said it should fit - maybe it should, but the chainstay yoke isn't parallel to the chainring and is 2mm further out at the top than the bottom, which is enough to clash with the teeth on the ring.
> The chainring does a great job of keeping the chain on so don't want to go back to shallow teeth and chain device, and just downsized from 34T as I knew that wouldn't fit, but was good gear range for terrain here.
> Would like to just get on and ride this bike - do I file down the chainstay yoke, or alternatively get the LHS bottom bracket faced down a couple more mm so the whole crankset can mover further to the right?


Posting a picture might help to get a better idea of the clearance issue your having. I don't fully understand your problem but from experience a single 32 chainring will require two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side to obtain proper clearance.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Hopefully some pics attached
One view from below is dead in line with the chainring - the yoke isn't in line though.
With a Sram BB adding another 2.5mm RHS spacer might be possible but won't help as the chainline is fixed by the LHS bearing which has a smaller ID and fits on a step in the axle.


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

The way I see it is that you have two options:
1. Add at least one additional spacer to move the chairing further outboard. This may not give you the best chainline but it will work. Just try it, so at least you can get on the bike. The bike is so much fun to ride you will forget all about the not so perfect chainline. 
2. Use a 30 tooth chainring and add at least one spacer. This is the solution I am using and works well with no issues. 
Do not file the frame to make room! Good luck and enjoy your ride.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

gulljammer said:


> The way I see it is that you have two options:
> 1. Add at least one additional spacer to move the chairing further outboard. This may not give you the best chainline but it will work. Just try it, so at least you can get on the bike. The bike is so much fun to ride you will forget all about the not so perfect chainline.
> 2. Use a 30 tooth chainring and add at least one spacer. This is the solution I am using and works well with no issues.
> Do not file the frame to make room! Good luck and enjoy your ride.


Thanks for that. Maybe 30T is sensible option.
But have just tried the cranks without the chainring and found the RHS crank passes the chainstay with about 7mm clearance and the LHS has 11mm clear - suggests taking 2mm off the LHS bottom bracket face may not be a bad idea.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

arclarke said:


> Thanks for that. Maybe 30T is sensible option.
> But have just tried the cranks without the chainring and found the RHS crank passes the chainstay with about 7mm clearance and the LHS has 11mm clear - suggests taking 2mm off the LHS bottom bracket face may not be a bad idea.


I think taking some material off on the non-drive side bottom bracket might be your best option in this case(other than exchanging for another frame...). As long as you don't take too much off, you can always use custom BB spacers to space it back out if needed.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> I think taking some material off on the non-drive side bottom bracket might be your best option in this case(other than exchanging for another frame...). As long as you don't take too much off, you can always use custom BB spacers to space it back out if needed.


Bike shop say can't take any more material off the bottom bracket, and I should change the frame for a nice kinesis 29er he can sell me!


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

arclarke said:


> Bike shop say can't take any more material off the bottom bracket, and I should change the frame for a nice kinesis 29er he can sell me!


I guess you'll either need to go with a 30T wolftooth chainring or get a shimano crankset with a 32T wolftooth chainring(30T wolftooth on shimano crank won't fit either)
I'm just curious, is the wolftooth chainring positioned such that it is between the small and middle ring of a normal triple? Otherwise a normal SRAM triple crank with a 32T middle ring wouldn't fit either.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> I guess you'll either need to go with a 30T wolftooth chainring or get a shimano crankset with a 32T wolftooth chainring(30T wolftooth on shimano crank won't fit either)
> I'm just curious, is the wolftooth chainring positioned such that it is between the small and middle ring of a normal triple? Otherwise a normal SRAM triple crank with a 32T middle ring wouldn't fit either.


The wolftooth chainring is in the same position as a middle ring - at most 1mm closer. I've just tried the standard sram middle 32T with a worn down ring and it just fits with about 0.5mm to spare - presumably it wasn't designed to be quite this tight.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

PS it's the taller and fatter teeth on the wolftooth ring that take up that extra 1mm or so.


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## blawson (Sep 5, 2008)

It actually looks like there's some gap between the drive side BB shell and the chainwheel. is the chainwheel the same stack height as the SRAM spider?

If the spindle is located L-R by the non-drive side BB shell, then your only option to adjust the chainline is to move that side, the drive side spacers are only to fill the gap.

If you can measure the offset between the BB center and the dropout center, (and the BB width while you're at it), you'll find out if the LHS is too far left. I suspect that an appropriate tolerance is +/- 1mm (.040") for width and position separately, which is stacking up in the wrong direction on you.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Exactly, I've a Race Face crank with a single 32t and clearance is about 0.5mm, a taller and fatter toothed ring would not fit. I don't know if your frame has any issue but it looks like it hasn't.



arclarke said:


> The wolftooth chainring is in the same position as a middle ring - at most 1mm closer. I've just tried the standard sram middle 32T with a worn down ring and it just fits with about 0.5mm to spare - presumably it wasn't designed to be quite this tight.





arclarke said:


> PS it's the taller and fatter teeth on the wolftooth ring that take up that extra 1mm or so.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

blawson said:


> It actually looks like there's some gap between the drive side BB shell and the chainwheel. is the chainwheel the same stack height as the SRAM spider?
> 
> If the spindle is located L-R by the non-drive side BB shell, then your only option to adjust the chainline is to move that side, the drive side spacers are only to fill the gap.
> 
> If you can measure the offset between the BB center and the dropout center, (and the BB width while you're at it), you'll find out if the LHS is too far left. I suspect that an appropriate tolerance is +/- 1mm (.040") for width and position separately, which is stacking up in the wrong direction on you.


Yes- I haven't measured in relation to dropout centre, but the cranks have a few mm more clearance from the chainstay on the non drive side than the drive side, so BB centre likely to be offset to non drive side a little. BB width was correct.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

savo said:


> Exactly, I've a Race Face crank with a single 32t and clearance is about 0.5mm, a taller and fatter toothed ring would not fit. I don't know if your frame has any issue but it looks like it hasn't.


Mine, 32T Race Face ring on e.thirteen single speed crank:


Chainring clearance is just barely enough. by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

What BB cups are those?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

eurospek said:


> What BB cups are those?


Who, me? I just edited my post. I built the bike first with e.thirteen cranks and bb cups, that's what's in the photo. I've since switched to Shimano SLX cranks & bb, still with Race Face 32T ring.

Morgan


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

blawson said:


> It actually looks like there's some gap between the drive side BB shell and the chainwheel. is the chainwheel the same stack height as the SRAM spider?
> 
> If the spindle is located L-R by the non-drive side BB shell, then your only option to adjust the chainline is to move that side, the drive side spacers are only to fill the gap.
> 
> If you can measure the offset between the BB center and the dropout center, (and the BB width while you're at it), you'll find out if the LHS is too far left. I suspect that an appropriate tolerance is +/- 1mm (.040") for width and position separately, which is stacking up in the wrong direction on you.


By my measurement the BB centre is indeed 1mm to the left of the drop out centre. And the chainwheel has 1mm less clearance than the standard SRAM spider and chainring.

Thought for today (after dropping the chain again with the standard chainring) is to fit a spacer between the axle step and the LHS bearing - needs to be quite specific in diameter, but I think maybe the Chris King GXP converter kit will have the necessary bits?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

arclarke said:


> By my measurement the BB centre is indeed 1mm to the left of the drop out centre. And the chainwheel has 1mm less clearance than the standard SRAM spider and chainring.
> 
> Thought for today (after dropping the chain again with the standard chainring) is to fit a spacer between the axle step and the LHS bearing - needs to be quite specific in diameter, but I think maybe the Chris King GXP converter kit will have the necessary bits?


Yeah that's what I was thinking you can do too. You just have to make sure the I.D of the washer is the right diameter and thickness and modify the way you install everything.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I used a old Holowtech XT crank with 118mm bb and 32T single chainring (with big teeth) Good thing with using a triple crank is that you can have two options (middle and outer ring positions) -- probably this info doesnt really help you much -- sorry


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## SourWortBrewer (Jul 11, 2013)

What size Chainring you rocking there?


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

34T Hope (regular teeth) on the middle position of an XT triple works fine for me. HTH.

_should change the frame for a nice kinesis 29er he can sell me!_

lol choosing the frame to fit the chainring

If they're meaning an FF29, it's a fairly different kind of ride to the Yelli. If you haven't ridden your Yelli, do that before you decide.


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## SourWortBrewer (Jul 11, 2013)

I am super interested in getting a Yelli, but I'm having a hard time deciding on the size and how to set her up. Does anyone ride in the Philly (Wiss or Belmont), Delaware (White Clay or Ironhill or Fairhill), South Jersey (Ceres) Area that has a Yelli I could throw a leg over on a trail. I have a couple of Niners and I'm looking for something different, more fun, less XC, and I don't want to go full squishy and the new ROS seems too heavy and expensive and I don't do EBBs. 
Thanks,
Matt
PS. I will pay you in beer for a demo ride...cheers.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

ghetto said:


> 34T Hope (regular teeth) on the middle position of an XT triple works fine for me. HTH.
> 
> _should change the frame for a nice kinesis 29er he can sell me!_
> 
> ...


Sounds like shimano cranks are easier to set up, and I think hope chainrings have quite small teeth - with the wolftooth it's both the height and the width of alternate teeth that is giving problems - but it did such a good job of keeping the chain on I gave my chain device away!
I haven't tried an FF29, but the geometry looked much like my old on-one, so definitely sticking with the Yelli.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

SourWortBrewer said:


> I am super interested in getting a Yelli, but I'm having a hard time deciding on the size and how to set her up. Does anyone ride in the Philly (Wiss or Belmont), Delaware (White Clay or Ironhill or Fairhill), South Jersey (Ceres) Area that has a Yelli I could throw a leg over on a trail. I have a couple of Niners and I'm looking for something different, more fun, less XC, and I don't want to go full squishy and the new ROS seems too heavy and expensive and I don't do EBBs.
> Thanks,
> Matt
> PS. I will pay you in beer for a demo ride...cheers.


Just buy a yelli and put a 140mm fork and stout wheels on. You won't be dissappointed

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

SourWortBrewer said:


> I am super interested in getting a Yelli, but I'm having a hard time deciding on the size and how to set her up. Does anyone ride in the Philly (Wiss or Belmont), Delaware (White Clay or Ironhill or Fairhill), South Jersey (Ceres) Area that has a Yelli I could throw a leg over on a trail. I have a couple of Niners and I'm looking for something different, more fun, less XC, and I don't want to go full squishy and the new ROS seems too heavy and expensive and I don't do EBBs.
> Thanks,
> Matt
> PS. I will pay you in beer for a demo ride...cheers.


Yo ! If your size is medium-ish I can help you out. Ride at wiss, brandywine, fair hill and white clay all the time. Go back one page to see my setup. Stem is changed to an 80mm since the pics. I could ride a large with a 40 or 50mm.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

arclarke said:


> Sounds like shimano cranks are easier to set up, and I think hope chainrings have quite small teeth.


I've no idea if the crank is relevant.

I think you're right about the ring, my Hope 34T has the same diameter as my On One 32T. So the teeth are shallower I guess.

Today I'm going to fit an XT clutch RM and remove the Superstar top guide I've been using, I'll report back if it works or not.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Another shot of the Yelli Screamy in bikepacking mode by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

morganfletcher said:


> Another shot of the Yelli Screamy in bikepacking mode by fnagrom, on Flickr
> 
> Morgan


That's cool! Can you give more information on the various bags you are using? I'd like to try bikepacking. Looks like you are in the SF bay area too? Any suggestions for a beginner bikepacking trip around here?


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## SourWortBrewer (Jul 11, 2013)

So I'm gonna pull the trigger on a Yelli and trying to figure out how to set her up.
Anyone running 2x10 on the Yelli? Not a triple with a bash. What is the biggest ring combos. I have an X9 39/26 crankset I was thinking about using. Pics would be sweet, I like the 1x10 setup but don't think I would have enough top end, considering a 32T is the largest I can get on a Yelli to have decent chainline, although I was wondering how bad the chainline would be if I used the outer position on a double crank? Anyone do that? Put a 36T wolftooth on the outside and just rock the off balanced chainline?
Thanks


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## raymondy (Jul 16, 2013)

morganfletcher said:


> Another shot of the Yelli Screamy in bikepacking mode by fnagrom,https://goo.gl/mNkDb on Flickr
> 
> Morgan


How much and where did you get the bags from?


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> That's cool! Can you give more information on the various bags you are using? I'd like to try bikepacking. Looks like you are in the SF bay area too? Any suggestions for a beginner bikepacking trip around here?


They are custom bags by Porcelain Rocket, which is one guy, Scott Felter, up in Canada. The frame bag was built based on a paper template I sent Scott. The other two bags are standard, except that I got to pick the color. This was my first, practice overnight trip, so I'm a beginner too! We rode up Railroad Grade to West Point, then Old Stage to Pantoll, where we got a $5 bike-in/hike-in site, then set up camp. We went down Coastal to Muir Beach, then back up and spent the night. The next morning we went down Coastal again, up Diaz Ridge, some Mill Valley trails at Four Corners back down to Mill Valley. Was a good beginner trip. We're headed to the Colorado Trail in a few weeks.

Morgan


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

They are custom bags by Porcelain Rocket, which is one guy, Scott Felter, up in Canada. The frame bag was built based on a paper template I sent Scott. The other two bags are standard, except that I got to pick the color. They cost me $450. They are very well made.

Morgan


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Now with a triple drivetrain:


Yelli Screamy, now with 3x10 drivetrain, in bikepacking mode by fnagrom, on Flickr

Morgan


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## Jstews (Oct 29, 2011)

^ Awesome.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

morganfletcher said:


> Now with a triple drivetrain:


@Morgan, what fork travel?


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## SourWortBrewer (Jul 11, 2013)

Anyone rocking a Sram X9 39/26T 2x10 setup out there? Thanks


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## ginaq5 (Jul 25, 2013)

Sent from my HTC EVO LTE


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> @Morgan, what fork travel?


It's a 140mm Revelation 2P Air. I need to bump up the air pressure, it sags quite a bit with the bag on. I'm 220lbs, and I have it set at 170psi. Luckily max is 255psi. I get a tiny bit of bag rub at full stuff.

Love the fork, rarely spin it down to 110mm.

Morgan


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

My Yelli that I've spent 2-1/2 seasons with was stolen this week. Nothing I can do but build another....I've got a choice of Green, Red or Black chrome in large. Need to get a frame on order, can't decide on a color and all of the forum attachments are not working.

Anybody have pictures of their bikes in these colors that they can host elsewhere?


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

HVskier said:


> My Yelli that I've spent 2-1/2 seasons with was stolen this week. Nothing I can do but build another....I've got a choice of Green, Red or Black chrome in large. Need to get a frame on order, can't decide on a color and all of the forum attachments are not working.
> 
> Anybody have pictures of their bikes in these colors that they can host elsewhere?


What size are you? I have a like new XL in orange Ano that I'm very seriously selling because I'm moving out of state and need to get some $$$ in order. While it would pain me to sell it, I also have a torn ACL that doesn't affect my ability to pedal a bike but in the event of wiping out, if I plant my foot the wrong way I could easily do serious damage. Think I need to put MTB'ing on hold and stick to road riding until I get it fixed. PM if you have any interest and I'll give you details on my build.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

HVskier said:


> My Yelli that I've spent 2-1/2 seasons with was stolen this week. Nothing I can do but build another....I've got a choice of Green, Red or Black chrome in large. Need to get a frame on order, can't decide on a color and all of the forum attachments are not working.
> 
> Anybody have pictures of their bikes in these colors that they can host elsewhere?


There is a picture of the new (darker) green on the Canfield website. Just don't get confused as I think they also still have pics of the old (lighter) wasabi green too.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I just got the "black chrome" but to me it's more of a raw silver/grey - it isn't black, and the sanding on the metal shows through - I like it though.
I haven't got any pics hosted anywhere - could email one of the frame - or why not just search flikr for "yelli"?


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

you can upload pics direct to here, would be good to see some when you're ready


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## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Can you only buy Canfield via their website? 

I read somewhere that the Banshee was a bit more comfortable, but I can't seem to find that anywhere, anyone experience that? 

I do 80% XC, but I love jumping off every little thing on the trail, so I think I want one of these type of bikes!


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

A pic of my Yelli









This is the black chrome finish, large size, forks are revelations set at 140mm, bars 750mm low rise on 55mm stem, back wheel due to be rebuilt with flow rim to match new front wheel


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Looks nothing like what I picture when thinking black chrome but I like it! Nice build.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Got my 2nd Yelli built last Friday, raced an xc race on Sunday and now off to do my 3rd Shenandoah 100. Hopefully I can get the setup dialed in close enough. Feels good to have my bike back.

















The details:
Large Frame
Rev 140 RCT3 DP Air
Crest Rims with 2.4 Ardents
American Classic hubs
XT Brakes 180/160
Haven Bar/85mm stem
Thompson Set back 410mm
Rocket V SLT
XO GXP Crank w/ 104/63 spider
32T Wolftooth Ring
XT 11-36 Cassette
XT Shadow+ RD
XT Shifter
King Headset
XT Pedals
Hope QR clamp
PC1071 Chain

26 lb. Even


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

running tubeless? does the Crest/Ardent combo work for that?


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Yes, Crest/Ardent is no issue tubeless, seats right up easily with floor and possibly hand pump.


ghetto said:


> running tubeless? does the Crest/Ardent combo work for that?


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

ghetto said:


> running tubeless? does the Crest/Ardent combo work for that?


As LyNx said, works great.

Couple of slight disappointments with the newer generation of frames....They got rid of the seat tube bottle mounts (get droppers, people) and there is less clearance between the rear tire and the front derailleur. Went to add a granny ring to my setup and the big ardent hit the FD. Had no problems with the fd on my first gen frame.


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## sanadaracing (Dec 1, 2011)

*my yelli*

Here is the bike I built several months ago.
Few things I would like to share with all you gurus out there:
1. This is a 2x1 set up. I like the simplicity of a single gear, but I defeniteley need a lighter gear to climb.
2. My cranks are 180mm although my inseam is 33 in. They give me extra leverage and stability (which equal to comfortness). I don't think I can go back to any shorter cranks.
3. despite number of times I lubricated my seat post, I never seemed have gotten rid of the squeaking noise. However, I changed the the grease to a different brand, and it solved the noise instantly! No more noise even after the rain. It was somewhat a new discovery for me.


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## TheGoat31 (Feb 3, 2009)

*New Yelli Owner*

Just finished building up my Yelli and it is also my first 29er. I moved over from a 26 FS. I am yet to have it in the trails but that should be changing this week.

Small Raw Yelli Screamy
Fox 32 Float 120mm Kashima Coating
Shimano XT Brakes
XX1 crank w 30t chainring
X9 shifter and derailleur
Green CK hubs on ZTR Arch Ex rims (10mm thru axle rear)
Conti Mountain King II tires


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

TheGoat31 said:


> Small Raw Yelli Screamy
> Fox 32 Float 120mm Kashima Coating
> Shimano XT Brakes
> XX1 crank w 30t chainring
> ...


Does that 10mm thru axle make a difference compared with standard QR?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

TheGoat31 said:


> Just finished building up my Yelli and it is also my first 29er. I moved over from a 26 FS. I am yet to have it in the trails but that should be changing this week.
> 
> Small Raw Yelli Screamy
> Fox 32 Float 120mm Kashima Coating
> ...


No clearance issues with the 30t chaining? I'm running a 28t wolftooth chainring with a X0 crankset and the clearance is so tight I doubt a 30t would have fit without rubbing. Maybe the chain line is different between the xx1 and wolftooth I guess.


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## TheGoat31 (Feb 3, 2009)

arclarke said:


> Does that 10mm thru axle make a difference compared with standard QR?


I have been on one ride with the bike so far. I can say this is by far the stiffest the rear wheel has felt during a ride. My last 2 bikes just felt loose in the turns and rough stuff at speed. We shall see how it feels after I am on it for more rides.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> No clearance issues with the 30t chaining? I'm running a 28t wolftooth chainring with a X0 crankset and the clearance is so tight I doubt a 30t would have fit without rubbing. Maybe the chain line is different between the xx1 and wolftooth I guess.


I'm using the Wolftooth 30t on GXP AKA cranks - clearance is very tight but just clears. I tried 32t first - was nowhere near working. There may be a mm or two combined variation in chainstay yoke position and exact centre of bottom bracket - or maybe the chainline of the cranks is slightly different?


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## eurospek (Sep 15, 2007)

TheGoat31 said:


> I have been on one ride with the bike so far. I can say this is by far the stiffest the rear wheel has felt during a ride. My last 2 bikes just felt loose in the turns and rough stuff at speed. We shall see how it feels after I am on it for more rides.


If you're seeking a stiff rear, why not also opt for a lowered Fox 34 Float instead of that noodly 32mm Float?


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## TheGoat31 (Feb 3, 2009)

arclarke said:


> Does that 10mm thru axle make a difference compared with standard QR?


With the XX1 crankset it came with a 32t chainring which I would have preferred to use. I just couldn't get the right spacing with the 32t and still get a good chain line in my opinion. So I dropped down to a 30t and put 1 bottom bracket spacer on the drive side and none on the non drive side and then used 2 spindle spacers on the crank which was recommended to me by Canfield Brothers after emailing them directly. Once I did this everything cleared and the chain line is great. the space between the chain ring and the chain stay is Very close but it works and no touching.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

TheGoat31 said:


> With the XX1 crankset it came with a 32t chainring which I would have preferred to use. I just couldn't get the right spacing with the 32t and still get a good chain line in my opinion. So I dropped down to a 30t and put 1 bottom bracket spacer on the drive side and none on the non drive side and then used 2 spindle spacers on the crank which was recommended to me by Canfield Brothers after emailing them directly. Once I did this everything cleared and the chain line is great. the space between the chain ring and the chain stay is Very close but it works and no touching.


Much the same with me - I tried spindle spacers but found that the non drive side GXP crank has tapered splines and has to be fully tightened onto the axle to avoid coming loose. So the non-drive bearing fixes where the chain line will be, spindle spacers can only fill the gap on the drive side - though this will help stop the plastic drive side bearing cover sliding out over time.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> No clearance issues with the 30t chaining? I'm running a 28t wolftooth chainring with a X0 crankset and the clearance is so tight I doubt a 30t would have fit without rubbing. Maybe the chain line is different between the xx1 and wolftooth I guess.





arclarke said:


> I'm using the Wolftooth 30t on GXP AKA cranks - clearance is very tight but just clears. I tried 32t first - was nowhere near working. There may be a mm or two combined variation in chainstay yoke position and exact centre of bottom bracket - or maybe the chainline of the cranks is slightly different?


The chainline on the Wolftooth is most certainly different. It's set at 48mm while most dedicated single rings are 50mm or more. I run an MRP 30t ring which has a 51mm chainline. There's plenty of clearance on my Yelli for a larger ring at that chainline. I'm not using any spacers on it, either.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

BlueDragonX said:


> The chainline on the Wolftooth is most certainly different. It's set at 48mm while most dedicated single rings are 50mm or more. I run an MRP 30t ring which has a 51mm chainline. There's plenty of clearance on my Yelli for a larger ring at that chainline. I'm not using any spacers on it, either.


The wolftooth website says the chaineline is 50mm. Its probably the narrow/wide tooth profile causing problems. Specifically the wide tooth hits.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

pwu_1 said:


> The wolftooth website says the chaineline is 50mm. Its probably the narrow/wide tooth profile causing problems. Specifically the wide tooth hits.


Both height and width - a standard 32t is fine on same chainline that a 30t Woolftooth only just fits. I guess same issue with XX1


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

pwu_1 said:


> The wolftooth website says the chaineline is 50mm. Its probably the narrow/wide tooth profile causing problems. Specifically the wide tooth hits.


Chainline on a 30t 104 BCD ring is 48mm. From 104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcomponents.com



> These fit all common cranksets using 104 BCD mounting.
> Note that the 30T chainring is threaded and has a 48 mm chainline. All other rings have 50mm chainline.


That and the taller teeth (larger diameter) have kept me from buying one for my N9. They're too expensive to experiment with IMO.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

wv_bob said:


> Chainline on a 30t 104 BCD ring is 48mm. From 104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcomponents.com
> 
> That and the taller teeth (larger diameter) have kept me from buying one for my N9. They're too expensive to experiment with IMO.


The 30t 104 ring is an odd one as 30t doesn't fit on 104 normally - but I'm using the GXP direct mount which is 50mm for all sizes, so it made sense to go from 32t to 30t to gain clearance.

Maybe expensive but they are good! I've had no chain drop with just an SLX+ RD to help keep the chain tight.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

wv_bob said:


> Chainline on a 30t 104 BCD ring is 48mm. From 104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcomponents.com
> 
> That and the taller teeth (larger diameter) have kept me from buying one for my N9. They're too expensive to experiment with IMO.


If you will be using the 104BCD ring on a shimano crank it might actually be easier to make it fit since it'll be easier to adjust the chainline. Even though the chainline is 48mm, it shouldn't be too difficult for you to add an extra spacer or 2 on the drive side BB to space out the crankset and get the chainline back to 50mm or more. 
The problem is with the Sram cranksets where the spacing is determined by the non-drive side BB only(The drive side BB is essentially floating) and adding spacers on the drive side will do nothing to adjust chainline.


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## M0riarty (Aug 2, 2007)

*Paid Spam: Medium Black Chrome for sale*

PAID Spam: Canfield Yelli Screamy 29er Frame Medium Black Chrome - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

My Medium Black Chrome frame is up for sale guys - you get first dibs!

Nothing wrong with the frame - bike is a blast to ride, but it's time to clean up the quiver.


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## El Dood (Sep 13, 2011)

Long shot but here goes- Does anyone in NJ have a small Yelli they might be willing to let me try out? Mostly want to see how it handles twisties compared to my XTC. I've contacted Canfield but they just don't have any demos on the east coast.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Got an xl in NYC but I think all yelli owners will tell you the same thing; just buy one, you won't regret it and if you do there will ALWAYS be a buyer ready to take it off your hands for close to full retail.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk 2


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## crazybeach (Jan 24, 2011)

I scanned through about half of the entire thread and I left very confused. My question being "What is the point of a long travel hardtail, why not just buy a full suspension?"


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

crazybeach said:


> I scanned through about half of the entire thread and I left very confused. My question being "What is the point of a long travel hardtail, why not just buy a full suspension?"


Don't know if serious or troll.

Here it goes anyways.

It's one or more of the following reasons:

We have more fun on a hardtail.
We enjoy being challenged, refuse to accept our limitations, and always strive to improve.
We're not afraid of making mistakes even if they hurt.
We like it when people look at us funny (this usually happens as we pass them on the way up and down the hill).
We enjoy disproving misconceptions.
We don't care what you ride as long as it's putting a smile on your face (and we think everyone should see it that way).

And I'm sure there are more.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

BlueDragonX said:


> And I'm sure there are more.



Who says you have to put a long travel fork on a YS?
We hate replacing bearings
We find great satisfaction in clearing obstacles - instead the bike doing it for us.

And I'm sure there are more.


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

perttime said:


> And I'm sure there are more.



It's lighter
You can run it singlespeed

And I'm sure there are more.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

You can run a FS bike singlespeed. Pretty few want to, though.


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

You might be able to, but I imagine it would be rather difficult due to the motion of the rear triangle. You'd have to leave a lot of slack in your chain and I'm not sure a tensioner would be able to pick it all up.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Some spring loaded tensioners can pick up a lot of slack... not to speak about using a derailer as a tensioner.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

goes uphill faster too!


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

I suspect the original question was a troll.

But anyway the question is back to front: why buy an FS when a long travel HT does the job?


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## crazybeach (Jan 24, 2011)

The original question was serious, I guess when you look at it that way a hardtail could get the job done. I asked the question because I already have a long travel full suspension bike, and was trying to justify getting a hardtail.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

crazybeach said:


> The original question was serious, I guess when you look at it that way a hardtail could get the job done. I asked the question because I already have a long travel full suspension bike, and was trying to justify getting a hardtail.


I mean...it's not for everyone. We all have our reasons for wanting to ride a hardtail - and a Yelli specifically - but it's still a personal choice. It certainly takes a certain kind of person to ride the hard stuff on one.

Here's mine, incidentally.


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## squareback (Sep 19, 2011)

BlueDragonX said:


> Don't know if serious or troll.


I actually do think it a serious question. After all the LTHT is the hottest thing since 650B, and nobody even has a Niner ROS selfie pic yet.

I have been wondering the same thing



BlueDragonX said:


> Here it goes anyways.
> 
> It's one or more of the following reasons:
> 
> ...


*Here is a slightly different conversation, of why someone would seriously ask this question:*



Winona Ryder said:


> I scanned through about half of the entire thread and I left very confused. My question being "What is the point of a short travel hardtail, why not just buy a super long squish fork??"





Bobby Flay said:


> Here it goes anyways.
> 
> It's one or more of the following reasons:
> 
> ...


So I think its a legit question.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

BlueDragonX said:


> Here's mine, incidentally.


Are you running the 30T because the 32 won't fit?
I am trying to build mine with the 32t and I am running into clearance issues. 
Anybody know running X9 cranks with 32T Bling Ring?


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

crazybeach said:


> The original question was serious, I guess when you look at it that way a hardtail could get the job done. I asked the question because I already have a long travel full suspension bike, and was trying to justify getting a hardtail.


Ok, well there are many many variables, your attitude, age, fitness, where and how you ride and want to ride.

For me an HT is the default choice, and I'll get an FS if I feel I need one, mostly I don't.

An FS will generally be smoother and faster and maybe less tiring, but that doesn't mean it's more fun.

A reasonably competent rider can ride most normal trails on an HT.

If I found a trail where I thought the difference between can I /can't I ride it was down to rear suspension, it's probably not a trail I'd enjoy anyhow.


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

Captain_America1976 said:


> Are you running the 30T because the 32 won't fit?
> I am trying to build mine with the 32t and I am running into clearance issues.
> Anybody know running X9 cranks with 32T Bling Ring?


I am running an X9/32T Bling ring and it is extremely tight. It clears the CS, but it is awfully close.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

cbd5600 said:


> I am running an X9/32T Bling ring and it is extremely tight. It clears the CS, but it is awfully close.
> 
> View attachment 833103


Is that the Sram BB and MRP chain guide? Any other spacers in there? With a Hope BB I had to use two spacers and the chain guide spacer to get it to work, but then I couldn't tighten it all the way down.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

I switched from a 32t bling ring to the wolftooth direct mount recently and I think it offers a tiny bit more clearance. Plus I've been tring to drop a chain for the last couple weeks but it stays put. No guide needed!


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

rusty904 said:


> Plus I've been tring to drop a chain for the last couple weeks but it stays put. No guide needed!


What derailiuer are you using? Eventually I am going to go with a clutch type with a wolftooth ring. I am trying to get this bike rideable with the parts I have.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Captain_America1976 said:


> What derailiuer are you using? Eventually I am going to go with a clutch type with a wolftooth ring. I am trying to get this bike rideable with the parts I have.


X9 Type 2, Short cage


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

squareback said:


> *Here is a slightly different conversation, of why someone would seriously ask this question:*


I'm really not sure what you're getting at.



Captain_America1976 said:


> Are you running the 30T because the 32 won't fit?
> I am trying to build mine with the 32t and I am running into clearance issues.
> Anybody know running X9 cranks with 32T Bling Ring?


No, I wanted the lower gearing of the 30t.


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

Captain_America1976 said:


> Is that the Sram BB and MRP chain guide? Any other spacers in there? With a Hope BB I had to use two spacers and the chain guide spacer to get it to work, but then I couldn't tighten it all the way down.


Yes it is a Sram BB and MRP chain guide. No other spacers.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

cbd5600 said:


> Yes it is a Sram BB and MRP chain guide. No other spacers.


Thanks!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

That green yelli is awesome!! I would have one if they still made that color.


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## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

squareback said:


> I actually do think it a serious question. After all the LTHT is the hottest thing since 650B, and nobody even has a Niner ROS selfie pic yet.
> 
> I have been wondering the same thing
> 
> ...


It's a serious question, but I think there's a good answer. 
The frames are cheaper, so entry into the segment is easier. This means that for $600 (which is generous) you can get a frame like the honzo that has all the modern features. It also means that with $1500 you could go with a TI beauty or something along the lines of a chromag surface. More bang for your buck.

I like the way a hardtail feels. I test rode a canondsle trigger 29 with enve wheels and thought "that was the best ride of my life." I set all kinds of PRs on my local trails that I had ridden a million times before. But it was easy. I was still breathing hard and such, but the suspension completely negated my mistakes. On a hardtail I can feel every thing in the rear, so my line matters more. I would say that on a rigid 26" bike it would matter the most, but we all have our line where we have the most fun. If that's blasting trails on a full susser, great, but I like to feel the trail in my legs.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

crazybeach said:


> I scanned through about half of the entire thread and I left very confused. My question being "What is the point of a long travel hardtail, why not just buy a full suspension?"


This is a good question, and is really central to what this bike is about.

I think it comes down to cultures. I like to ride trails that are rugged, chunky, stuff that you can move over at speed on a full-suspension bike. And I like the bikes that let me ride that stuff. I've got a Santa Cruz Bronson on order.

You've probably heard the story that the Canfield Brothers were downhillers who didn't like the available 29ers - bikes with a geometry that was closer to xc or even a road bike than the bikes they liked to ride and build and race - so they built one they would like to ride. That's essentially what the Yelli is. I call it my self-shuttling twenty-niner downhill bike. I know that sounds silly, and I'm smiling when I say it, but that's what it is. It wouldn't be my first choice for Downieville or Moab, but I just rode it a bunch in Colorado chunk, and it was flawless. Moore Fun at Kokopelli and the 18 Road trails in Fruita, the Ribbon and Lunch Loops in Grand Junction, oh and bikepacking on the Colorado Trail at 13,000'. But where it really shines is my local singletrack, rides with my buddies on techy trails from my door. It climbs really well - self-shuttles me - and descends like a demon, and with the build I've got, can handle just about anything.

The geometry is just part of it. Slack, short, low and built for a long fork, with big tire clearance is really the nut. The price made it appealing as well.

I don't know if this answer is useful, or really any different from the other answers, but there it is. I have one, my son has one, and it's the perfect tool for almost all of my riding.

Morgan


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## FatTireGoose (Jun 19, 2009)

I'm just starting a Yelli build and may have got the wrong crank. I wanted to run a 2X10 and scored a RaceFace Turbine 24/36 and the big ring hits the chainstay. I'm running with one spacer on the drive-line side but don't want to run two and lose that much thread on the BB. Do I need to run a smaller big ring? What size will work?


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

What bomb-proof rear wheel/tyre combo are people running for _very_ (sharp)rocky trails. Ive got a Sun Rhinolite rear rim that seems to be holding up, but Ive been pinch-flatting quite a bit in enduro races trying to keep up with the 140+mm full-squishy bikes. I think my best combo so far has been a 26" DH tube in the rear (over 400g just for the tube!) and a Maxxis Highroller II in 2.3 running at about 45psi. Basically the front end is writing checks that the rear cannot cash -- when Im concentrating on keeping the front heading in the right direction, I find it hard to remember to lift the rear over all the possible pinch-flatting rocks, especially on the steep stuff where you are trying to keep the wheels on the ground for breaking -- still only pinch flatted near the end of the last stage and DH tube held enough air to get to the end, which gave me 1st place in the HT class:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/22sept2013_EnduroHautacam


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## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

fastfish666 said:


> What bomb-proof rear wheel/tyre combo are people running for _very_ (sharp)rocky trails. Ive got a Sun Rhinolite rear rim that seems to be holding up, but Ive been pinch-flatting quite a bit in enduro races trying to keep up with the 140+mm full-squishy bikes. I think my best combo so far has been a 26" DH tube in the rear (over 400g just for the tube!) and a Maxxis Highroller II in 2.3 running at about 45psi. Basically the front end is writing checks that the rear cannot cash -- when Im concentrating on keeping the front heading in the right direction, I find it hard to remember to lift the rear over all the possible pinch-flatting rocks, especially on the steep stuff where you are trying to keep the wheels on the ground for breaking -- still only pinch flatted near the end of the last stage and DH tube held enough air to get to the end, which gave me 1st place in the HT class:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/22sept2013_EnduroHautacam


Wouldn't a tubes setup prevent a lot of those pinch flats?


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## Map204 (May 29, 2012)

fastfish666 said:


> Still only pinch flatted near the end of the last stage and DH tube held enough air to get to the end, which gave me 1st place in the HT class:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/22sept2013_EnduroHautacam


Also, those photos are great. It looks like a blast!


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

fastfish666 said:


> What bomb-proof rear wheel/tyre combo are people running for _very_ (sharp)rocky trails.


I haven't found it yet. Current setup is Maxxis Ardent UST 2.25 tubeless on Stans Flow rim. Had to go down in tire volume to clear a front derailleur. At 28-29psi, I occasionally bang the rim, and it's not overly rocky here. If I were to bring this setup to the rockier, faster places (Downieville) I'd have to go up to 33-35psi. 45psi seems like it would risk a bad bounce.

I'd say go up in volume if you could, thicker casing if you can, tubeless-specific wide rim and go tubeless, if you haven't. But I'm no downhill racer. I think tubes are still more prevalent in the DH racing world. You might get better info in another forum.

Morgan


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

I run Maxxis Ardent EXO 2.4" on a set of Sun Ringle Black Flag Comp rims set up tubeless. I inflate to 22/25 front/rear and I rarely get rim strikes. Mostly happens when I'm screwing around on curbs and whatnot. But on the trails it's no problem at all.

More volume is surely the way to go. I run a 1x10 so I have no front derailleur to get in the way.

I'm considering trying out the Minion DHF 2.5/DHR-II 2.3 combo for my next set of tires.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I checked my wheel, and the 36h Sun Rhinolite was pretty true even after total abuse over the weekend -- so rim/wheel strength is good. The problem is when you try following dual-sus bikes that overtake, and I dont have time/skill to hop over all the nasty trail obstacles/sharp rocks that risk pinch flatting. I might try tubeless again, but its a bit of a DIY solution, Ive heard that some DH riders run tubes in a tubeless setup, that way if they pinch flat they loose air more slowly (if at all) but Im not sure how you would get a tubless tyre to seal if it didnt have sealant fluid? Maybe I should build up a rear wheel with a wider rim like a Pacenti DL31 but they are hard to get hold of here in France.
I have a Ardent 2.3 in the front, but I dont think there is space for a 2.5 in a Reba (the fork I have) -- not had too many issues with the front.
I wonder if I can line the tyre with high density foam matting or something -- might be interesting to try


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

ps -- yes it was a total blast -- especially when I had the chance to watch how smooth the toy guys (and girl) were -- Impressive


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

Getto tubeless is the hot setup. I've been able to keep a 2.1 single ply tire from flatting for close to a year. I'm sure the sealant is dry by now but it's staying together. 

There is a trick to getto that will save a ton of issues. After the tire is on and sealant is inside, squirt a little sealant between the bead and tube strip to basically glue the tire to the tube. This way it will pull the tube with the tire on really big hits and when you "burp" the tire. I was resistant for a few years (the messy setup) but it is a huge advantage, both flat resistance and grip.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

flymybike said:


> Getto tubeless is the hot setup. I've been able to keep a 2.1 single ply tire from flatting for close to a year. I'm sure the sealant is dry by now but it's staying together.
> 
> There is a trick to getto that will save a ton of issues. After the tire is on and sealant is inside, squirt a little sealant between the bead and tube strip to basically glue the tire to the tube. This way it will pull the tube with the tire on really big hits and when you "burp" the tire. I was resistant for a few years (the messy setup) but it is a huge advantage, both flat resistance and grip.


there are more and more good tubeless tires and tubeless ready rims on the market everyday. I wouldnt' even go ghetto tubeless, I'd go straight to regular tubeless and maximize weight savings and have added confidence of no burping.


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## Shmoo (Mar 9, 2008)

I'm about to go from my 100mm Reba to my 140mm Revelation. I'm 5'7", guys at Canfield told me to go with a med frame, but it feels too long. Had to go with a 710mm bar (from a 740), with a 50mm stem. I'm wondering if anyone else is in the same boat.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

Shmoo I'm 172 cm, happy on a M with wider bars and a 60mm stem.

Height is a crude indicator for fit though.


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## Westache (Aug 30, 2013)

Hello all! I have been caught by the bug and 2 months ago I bought a Stache 8. I have spent a LOT of time on the bike and I VERY much like it so far. I have upgraded a few components and am really settling in. That said the Yelli caught my eye as something that might even be MORE playful and fun to ride than the stache especially with the shorter stays. 

This is not to say the Stache is a bad bike, I quite like it, but if I could get all that it offers as well as better manual, jump, wheelie and capabilities I would be ALL for that. 

Can anyone compare and contrast between the two? I would essentially strip the Stache and throw the stuff on the Yelli. I know the seatpost is different but that is easy enough. The rest of the components like the fork, stem, and bars I have would be a great addition to the Yelli and I would run the Raceface turbine cranks with the RF narrow wide single front ring and a 10 speed rear. SLX brakes, fox 120MM evolution fork. 

Anyway that is my logic anyway and I would love to hear thoughts from people that have thrown legs over both bikes.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

At 445mm the Stache chainstays are huge compared with those on a yelli -- In my view the chainstay length is one of the most critical factors for a manoeuvrable 29er --especially at speed--
Ive not ridden a Stache, but Ive ridden a On-One Inbread, Xprezo T29, Salsa Mamasita -- all in my view 1st gen XC-orientated 29ers with long chainstays (445 for the first to and about 447 for the salsa). This definitely slows down the high speed handling. My view is that, in the early days designers tried to speed up the handling with steeper head angles and reduced trail (bigger fork offset -- e.g Fisher G2 forks) -- this does speed up lowspeed handling where you turn the handlebars but doesnt do much for high speed handling where you dont so much turn the bars, as lean the bike and flick the rear round with you hips. More recently designers have realised that high-speed handling is more very influenced by chainstay length -- and short chainstays also help to get the front end up for manuals etc. The problem is that its a compromise with mud/tyre/front-mech clearance.
Anyhow Ive sold off my long chainstay bikes and have a Kona Big kahuna about 440mm -- good for a XC bike, cheapo Al singlespeed with about 438mm chainstays (perfect for 32x18 and no chain tensioner), and my yelli. The yelli is the most playful and most confidence inspiring, the Kona is pretty manouvrable and will go most places the yelli will go, if a bit slower. The singlespeed only has 80mm forks, with G2 offset and about 71deg head angle so is snappy as hell -- great in tight singletrack but a bit nervewracking in steep rock gardens 
Im running my Yelli with 120mm RS Rebas and 1x9 -- 32 x 12-36 gearing here in the Pyrenenees and came out first in the hardtail class in the last couple of Enduro races I did


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## Shmoo (Mar 9, 2008)

ghetto said:


> Shmoo I'm 172 cm, happy on a M with wider bars and a 60mm stem.
> 
> Height is a crude indicator for fit though.


Thanks, dude. The reach on a medium Yelli is close to the reach of my main bike (WFO). But it definitely feels longer, I'm assuming after the seat post extention and such.


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## cbd5600 (Jul 6, 2012)

Westache said:


> Hello all! I have been caught by the bug and 2 months ago I bought a Stache 8. I have spent a LOT of time on the bike and I VERY much like it so far. I have upgraded a few components and am really settling in. That said the Yelli caught my eye as something that might even be MORE playful and fun to ride than the stache especially with the shorter stays.
> 
> This is not to say the Stache is a bad bike, I quite like it, but if I could get all that it offers as well as better manual, jump, wheelie and capabilities I would be ALL for that.
> 
> ...


My previous bike was a Trek Cobia. I assume the Cobia geometry is similar to the Stache 8. The difference between my Cobia ans Yelli is night and day. The Yelli is much more fun in all aspects (to me anyways). It corners better and is a blast downhill. My riding improved a ton when I made the switch.


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## Westache (Aug 30, 2013)

cbd5600 said:


> My previous bike was a Trek Cobia. I assume the Cobia geometry is similar to the Stache 8. The difference between my Cobia ans Yelli is night and day. The Yelli is much more fun in all aspects (to me anyways). It corners better and is a blast downhill. My riding improved a ton when I made the switch.


Thanks for the input guys. Despite the appearance in similarity to the CObia and Stache on paper they are completely different bikes when you throw a leg over. I have an 8 and a close riding buddy has a Cobia. Not a bad bike but NOT what I would consider playful and fun so much as a simply competent XC bike. I am starting to ride fast, hard, and want to throw that thing around and I am doing pretty decently in my limited riding time with the stache. That said I can TELL there is room for more and the Yelli really seems like my cup of tea. I am tempted to build one and if I like it just sell the Stache frame off. I can probably recoup 80% of the cost of the frame by selling the Stache frame if the match is there...

Where did I put that extra $650 again?


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

*feel like I've been taking crazy pills*

OK, I need help here - can't for the life of me figure this out.

I've got my Yelli set up as a single speed, with old Style 3x cranks and a GXP bottom bracket. I was getting some drivetrain creaking, so I pulled off the cranks and bb, cleaned everything up, re-did the chainring bolts etc, and then went back to re-assemble.

Except, I'd forgotten that this was an old bb. I'd work out the bearings, and in a fit of "really want to ride this bike" I'd knocked the old bearings out with a punch and knocked in some new Enduro bearings with a mallet. I'd intended to replace this but forgotten all about it. The upshot was that when I pulled the crank and bb off, I found an empty BB cup on the drive side, and a bearing adhered to the crank spindle. So, I knocked the bearing off the crank, re-installed in the cup, reinstalled the bb, reinstalled the crank... only there is now a 4mm gap between the crank and the frame.

So... before trying anything else, I run out and buy a new GXP bottom bracket, install that... and same issue.

The Yelli has a 73mm bottom bracket, so it shouldn't need any spacers
But, once I back off the non-drive side cup until the crank seats flush, there is a 2 spacer or 4mm gap

All assembled, the crank spindle width (whatever that is called ) measures out at 77mm

What the heck is going on here? With the drive side cup snugged down to the crank, the non-drive cup stops with a gap, or bb width, of 77mm. What? This doesn't make sense to me. I guess I'll go assemble it with a spacer on each side so that I can ride it, but something seems very wrong.

Anyone have a guess as to what is going on here?


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

grundy said:


> OK, I need help here - can't for the life of me figure this out.
> 
> I've got my Yelli set up as a single speed, with old Style 3x cranks and a GXP bottom bracket. I was getting some drivetrain creaking, so I pulled off the cranks and bb, cleaned everything up, re-did the chainring bolts etc, and then went back to re-assemble.
> 
> ...


Sram Crankset with GXP BB? I think that's how it is designed. The Crank is free floating on the Drive side and only clamped down on the Non-Drive side. 
There are some complaints of the Drive side BB cover/seal coming off cuz there is nothing there to hold it in place. I think some people just use a 5mm(or whatever fits) 1 inch headset washer to take up the space. 
I bought one of these kits--> SRAM GXP MTB BB Shield and Wave Washer | eBay
just for the wavy washer and coupled that with a 2 or 3mm 1 inch headset spacer to take up the slack. That way there is some give so there is not excessive side loading on the bearing.
But yeah, pretty sure that's how Sram cranksets are designed.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

pwu_1 said:


> Sram Crankset with GXP BB? I think that's how it is designed. The Crank is free floating on the Drive side and only clamped down on the Non-Drive side.
> There are some complaints of the Drive side BB cover/seal coming off cuz there is nothing there to hold it in place. I think some people just use a 5mm(or whatever fits) 1 inch headset washer to take up the space.
> I bought one of these kits--> SRAM GXP MTB BB Shield and Wave Washer | eBay
> just for the wavy washer and coupled that with a 2 or 3mm 1 inch headset spacer to take up the slack. That way there is some give so there is not excessive side loading on the bearing.
> But yeah, pretty sure that's how Sram cranksets are designed.


Huh. I'd just found this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...led-truvativ-stylo-gxp-gap-normal-564003.html with similar information.

Strange, but if that's the way it is, I'll go put it back together and ride it.

Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it!


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

My GXP crank is similar - I thought the gap was intentional, and didn't matter since the crank is fixed in place on the nondrive side. But I found the plastic bearing sleeve/cover on the drive side floated out of the bearing into the gap and the bearing got filled with mud. So now I use a single bearing spacer on the drive side, and an old rubber bearing seal as a spindle spacer to keep the cap in place without putting pressure on the bearing (I used a rubber band before that - it was OK). 
My impression is that this is a common problem, and may be worse when using old cranks on the new design bearing.


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## grundy (Jan 12, 2004)

thanks - I went ahead and made a crude foam washer for the drive side, to keep the seal in place.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Captain_America1976 said:


> What derailiuer are you using? Eventually I am going to go with a clutch type with a wolftooth ring. I am trying to get this bike rideable with the parts I have.


I've been riding with wolftooth rings and shimano SLX+ since April - have long since worried about whether the chain will come off - it never does. On the Yelli I needed to drop to a 30T front ring for clearance - my previous frame was On-one Scandal and had space for 34T or bigger. On long rides I'm now glad of the lower bottom gear with 30T.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Captain_America1976 said:


> Is that the Sram BB and MRP chain guide? Any other spacers in there? With a Hope BB I had to use two spacers and the chain guide spacer to get it to work, but then I couldn't tighten it all the way down.


If you can't get your crank fully tightened up onto the splines it will come lose very soon, I found out.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

crazybeach said:


> I scanned through about half of the entire thread and I left very confused. My question being "What is the point of a long travel hardtail, why not just buy a full suspension?"


To me there's a basic drive to make things as simple as possible, but no simpler (attribute to philosopher of choice - Aristotle, Occam, Einstein). I ride muddy trails, and don't like spending time cleaning my bike, or regreasing bearings, when I could be out riding instead, so the fewer moving parts the better. I tried rigid singlespeed, and it wasn't so much fun. Suspension forks are great, and gears aren't bad too. In the end I just enjoy riding a bike that is great for climbing, and for coming back down again!


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

arclarke said:


> To me there's a basic drive to make things as simple as possible, but no simpler (attribute to philosopher of choice - Aristotle, Occam, Einstein). I ride muddy trails, and don't like spending time cleaning my bike, or regreasing bearings, when I could be out riding instead, so the fewer moving parts the better. I tried rigid singlespeed, and it wasn't so much fun. Suspension forks are great, and gears aren't bad too. In the end I just enjoy riding a bike that is great for climbing, and for coming back down again!


my sentiments exactly, infact when its really muddy I take out the rigid singlespeed, but as you said there is a time and a place for a few gears and some front suspension, especially as Im getting older. I also find that rear suss dumbs down my local trails to the point that I dont enjoy riding them as much


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

grundy said:


> Huh. I'd just found this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...led-truvativ-stylo-gxp-gap-normal-564003.html with similar information.
> 
> Strange, but if that's the way it is, I'll go put it back together and ride it.
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it!


I found this thread quite a while ago because of the same problem but for my Trek Rig frame--not the Yelli. There's a gap on the drive side and you can either ride it like that, which seems really odd as the area there is supposed to be heavily greased, or get a rubber O ring to keep the grease out. I don't recall there being a gap on the OEM GXP BB that came with the Trek Rig, so it seems fishy to me. I have no issues on my Yelli with Shimano SLX 3X crankset and BB, it fits like one would expect.


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## Captain_America1976 (Mar 15, 2005)

arclarke said:


> I've been riding with wolftooth rings and shimano SLX+ since April - have long since worried about whether the chain will come off - it never does. On the Yelli I needed to drop to a 30T front ring for clearance - my previous frame was On-one Scandal and had space for 34T or bigger. On long rides I'm now glad of the lower bottom gear with 30T.


I was able to get it ridable by using the original SRAM BB instead of the Hope BB I was using. I recently upgraded to a XT shadow + derailleur. The 30T Wolftooth is next on the list.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Captain_America1976 said:


> I was able to get it ridable by using the original SRAM BB instead of the Hope BB I was using. I recently upgraded to a XT shadow + derailleur. The 30T Wolftooth is next on the list.


I wondered about the Hope adapter for Sram axles, and whether it moved the chainline, so stuck with another Sram BB. The Chris King adapter looks like it might be better though - it sleeves the stepped axle to 24mm, so you tighten LH crank onto axle, and fill RH axle with spacers and preload washer. Ought to work with hope bearing too.


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## TheGoat31 (Feb 3, 2009)

*Water Bottle Mounting*

All you Yelli riders that have small frames are any of you running water bottle cages on the mounts on the inside of the frame. Currently I have my waterbottle mounted on the under side of the down tube but would much rather make use of the mounts of the on the top side of the down tube or on the seat post tube. So if anyone is using those mounting points for a water bottle cage it would be awesome to know what cage and what size water bottle you are using.

Thanks,


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

same for a medium frame! you can just squeeze a 500ml bottle into a side-entry cage, but the Leyzene one Ive been using isnt very secure. I did try adapting a cage to move the bottle further down, but that didnt work very well either, might have to get some ssteel wire and get the welder out!


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

*bottle cage*

This was my DIY solution for a but, but the plastic (orange) but was a bit too flexy and rubbed off some of the anodizing on the d-tube, also wasnt the most secure bottle holder:














this is in a med frame
In my view it would be better to have a single Dtube mounted bottle, but lower so you can get a 750ml instead of the additional Stube mounts which prevent seatpost dropping (they may have done this on the new frames)


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

fastfish666 said:


> In my view it would be better to have a single Dtube mounted bottle, but lower so you can get a 750ml instead of the additional Stube mounts which prevent seatpost dropping (they may have done this on the new frames)


On my new L frame they just dropped the seat tube mounts but left the downtube holder so far up it's hard to get an average size bottle in.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

*Fork length*

When I got my Yelli frame I fitted Revelation forks as they came at 140mm, with a Hans Dampf front tyre. I found this set up great for descending fast, but a bit sluggish for the twisty singletrack I ride most. So I've just dropped the forks to 130mm (and fitted a smaller front tyre) and finding the cornering noticeably nippier.
So I wondered what other people's sweet-spot for fork travel was, and whether it worth trying 120mm as well.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Ive been running 120mm rebas (1 initially had 100mm Fox F29 with QR, but these were very noodly and I got a fair few pedal hits). I find 120 is a good compromise still pretty nimble in the singletrack. Ive been riding a few Enduros with this setup and won the hard-tail class twice


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

arclarke said:


> On my new L frame they just dropped the seat tube mounts but left the downtube holder so far up it's hard to get an average size bottle in.


Yeah its a real shame they didnt move the DT bottle bosses lower when they removed the others from the ST


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

I installed a Phil Wood Philcentric bottom bracket a few weeks ago. I got tired of piecing different chains together to get an acceptable length. So far like it a lot. The initial set up is not as straight forward as a standard BB but I knew what I was getting into before I started so there were no surprises. I'm using a half link to get the Spindle as far back a possible (to shorten the chain stay effectively) but with that you also move your chainring closer to the chain stay. My set up is XT cranks, 32 standard Race face chain ring to a 20T cog. I did not install spacers and my chain line comes out perfect with a Chris King SS hub. I took some quick pics last night before my ride.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

fastfish666 said:


> Yeah its a real shame they didnt move the DT bottle bosses lower when they removed the others from the ST


I'm using a Spesh Z side-load bottle cage with a Camelbak Podium water bottle and it fits just right. The Z cage has a bit of up and down adjustment in it so it's set up so that the the bottle gets some downward pressure from the top tube. It doesn't go anywhere.

And my frame's a large from this year.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

You guys need camelbacks

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk now Free


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

cpfitness said:


> You guys need camelbacks


I use one for anything more than 10 miles or if I intend to carry in my pads instead of wearing them. Otherwise a backpack is overkill and a bottle is plenty.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

I've heard a few riders say that King Cage in Durango can make you a bottle cage with custom positioning of the mounting bolts.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

I do not like riding with any pack and I've used them since the late 90's because I always felt I could not get everything I needed into a seat bag (smaller bag). I now have a great set up because I got the yelli with 3 water bottle mounts and only need to carry my camelbak if my ride is over 3 hours and there is nowhere to refill my bottles.



cpfitness said:


> You guys need camelbacks
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk now Free


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

fastfish666 said:


> Ive been running 120mm rebas (1 initially had 100mm Fox F29 with QR, but these were very noodly and I got a fair few pedal hits). I find 120 is a good compromise still pretty nimble in the singletrack.


Just tried dropping my Revelations from 130 to 120mm and really makes a difference - much tighter on bends - just wondering whether to change to 170mm cranks as had quite a few pedal hits on 130 forks (or maybe just look where I'm going!)


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I found I was getting pedal hits with 175mm cranks and 100mm but at 120mm it was fine (most of the time


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## loamranger (Oct 26, 2006)

What brakes are you guys liking on your Yelli Screamy builds? Cheers


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

loamranger said:


> What brakes are you guys liking on your Yelli Screamy builds? Cheers


I've mostly used Magura over the years with good success. Currently using the Martas on my YS and N9. 180F and 160R. Haven't used any of the new carbon Marta MT stuff yet.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

loamranger said:


> What brakes are you guys liking on your Yelli Screamy builds? Cheers


Tektro hydraulics here. 180 F/R. Work great. Easy to bleed and great price.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Juicy 7s 180/160 -- worked well here (Pyrenees) on last 3 enduro races with 10-15mins descents around 500-800m vertical (on the brakes a lot). Was running 160/160 before, but a 180 on the front is helpful


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

XT brakes at the moment, have run Hope also. 160mm rotors both ends.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

*Carbon Yelli(-alike) ?*

I love the geometry of my Yelli but do find it a little bit dead-feeling for XC and climbing, a bit like towing a brick sometimes. Yeah I realise they're built strong, some people buck these things off cliffs.

Any votes out there for same geo in carbon, to save a bit of weight and add a little flex to the back? I'm in.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

ghetto said:


> I love the geometry of my Yelli but do find it a little bit dead-feeling for XC and climbing, a bit like towing a brick sometimes. Yeah I realise they're built strong, some people buck these things off cliffs.
> 
> Any votes out there for same geo in carbon, to save a bit of weight and add a little flex to the back? I'm in.


Me too - Pivot LES also looked nice on paper, but was too expensive for me to consider. Old on-one scandal was lighter and livelier but doesn't have the geometry.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

yeah there's the rub, it's gotta have the geometry or there's no point.


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## PHRANQUY (Dec 14, 2010)

I have a dual position Revelation (140/110) and find I usually ride it in the lower setting as well. Sometimes I'll forget to flip the switch back to 110 and the bike just needs a bit more lean to make it through the tighter stuff, but with the drop in the top tube it's not an issue to lean the bike over while I'm standing and pedaling.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

loamranger said:


> What brakes are you guys liking on your Yelli Screamy builds? Cheers


X9 200/180

Morgan


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

arclarke said:


> Me too - Pivot LES also looked nice on paper, but was too expensive for me to consider. Old on-one scandal was lighter and livelier but doesn't have the geometry.


I as well dream of a light carbon Yelli version. The closest I've found is the BMC Team Elite 01 29er. Finding a frame only at a reasonable price.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm still thinking about getting a YS. I'm used to steel. I never thought I would go back to aluminum. Should I be worried about the ride feel? When climbing steep stuff, does the short CS make it tough to keep the front down? 

Most of my riding is fast open fireroads. Am I making a mistake by drinking the short CS KoolAid?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> I'm still thinking about getting a YS. I'm used to steel. I never thought I would go back to aluminum. Should I be worried about the ride feel? When climbing steep stuff, does the short CS make it tough to keep the front down?
> 
> Most of my riding is fast open fireroads. Am I making a mistake by drinking the short CS KoolAid?


The short chain stays can be an issue when climbing at first but it's all about body position. I have no issues with it.

The upside of the chain stays is the bike shreds corners.

I love mine. If you want steel then the nimble 9 is pretty much a steel yelli screamy.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

jkidd_39 said:


> The short chain stays can be an issue when climbing at first but it's all about body position. I have no issues with it.
> 
> The upside of the chain stays is the bike shreds corners.
> 
> I love mine. If you want steel then the nimble 9 is pretty much a steel yelli screamy.


I prefer the weight of the YS, and I don't want sliders etc. Good to hear about the climbing.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> I prefer the weight of the YS, and I don't want sliders etc. Good to hear about the climbing.


The only time I get the front end up is when climbing very tight corners.

But like I said. Totally manageable. I prefer the front end feel. It's easy to lift the front over rocks and roots.


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> Am I making a mistake by drinking the short CS KoolAid?


In a word, yes. You have to consider what the primary purpose of short chainstays is: to decrease wheelbase in order to increase maneuverability without sacrificing a slacker head angle. On an open fire road, you just don't need the ability to weave through trees/tight singletrack, so you're getting all of the downsides with none of the upsides. They're awesome bikes, but despite the hype, they really aren't made to do everything. It wouldn't necessarily make for a bad bike, but I think you could do better for your riding style.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

I think 'mistake' is too strong a word, but for fire road riding you're not going to get the best benefit from the Yelli geometry, something cheaper and more 'normal' would suffice, e.g. Singular Swift, Niner MCR etc. IMO the Yelli's also a bit overbuilt for your kind of riding, the welds and joins down at the BB area are very chunky, some people huck these things.

I have no problem on climbs on my Yelli. It climbs well stood up IMO, I rarely sit and spin.

I love my Yelli, it's fun and forgiving, I happily ride XC and trails on it, I don't understand why everyone doesn't have one as it's fun 29er geometry nailed IMO. But if XC is where your heart is a cheaper more generic frame would likely do the job just as well.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

To me the short chainstays help with the climbing - easier to weight the back wheel for traction when out of the saddle. And no problems climbing seated with fork at 120 or 140mm.
But the frame is pretty stiff which might be a shock compared to steel - it's certainly stiffer (and heavier) than my old on-one scandal.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

The Scandal is aluminium alloy by the way - with thinner wall tubes than the Yelli.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

arclarke said:


> To me the short chainstays help with the climbing - easier to weight the back wheel for traction when out of the saddle. And no problems climbing seated with fork at 120 or 140mm.
> But the frame is pretty stiff which might be a shock compared to steel - it's certainly stiffer (and heavier) than my old on-one scandal.


I think I may be the only person who thinks the Yelli is flexy for a aluminum bike. I love mine but it is not as laterally stiff as my steel Redline Monocog or last three out of five aluminum hardtails, Cannondale/SantaCruze Chameleon/KHS/Fisher Rig. Tire volume and pressure makes WAY more difference than the frame compliance as far as comfort is concerned IMO.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Mr. Doom said:


> I think I may be the only person who thinks the Yelli is flexy for a aluminum bike. I love mine but it is not as laterally stiff as my steel Redline Monocog or last three out of five aluminum hardtails, Cannondale/SantaCruze Chameleon/KHS/Fisher Rig. Tire volume and pressure makes WAY more difference than the frame compliance as far as comfort is concerned IMO.


It is in the rear. A 10x135 bolt thru fixes that tho.


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

anyone run their yelli with rigid fork?
i'm thinking of doing it for the winter. i have run my fork locked out most of last winter and cold did not do good to my seals

i'd like to see pics and what fork you used.
thanks


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

I'm rigid every time I ride my Yelli.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

tartosuc said:


> anyone run their yelli with rigid fork?


haven't but I would (have done with another frame)

100mm equivalent rigid forks would go well I think.


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## frank6262 (Oct 9, 2006)

*geo question...*

im done with my Cdale F5 26er...ive been eyeing the YS for a xc "race" bike (always last place Sport class but i try!)
why?
because im a terrible bike handler/decender... so i want a slack light 29er HT..
in reading this thread about its short CS and burly build.. is this not the right choice for me? any recomendations?


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## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

Wait Wut???111!!!11/?/?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

frank6262 said:


> im done with my Cdale F5 26er...ive been eyeing the YS for a xc "race" bike (always last place Sport class but i try!)
> why?
> because im a terrible bike handler/decender... so i want a slack light 29er HT..
> in reading this thread about its short CS and burly build.. is this not the right choice for me? any recomendations?


It can be.... It's all in how you ride. I ride a lot of tight single track so I love being able to cut tight corners. I have no issues keeping pace w/ more race XC oriented bikes. Anything I may lose on climbs I gain back going down hill.

Granted the yelli is a totally different feel. It prefers to be thrown through nasty stuff. I find myself constantly pushing harder and harder thru rock gardens and nasty drops knowing that it's rider ability holding me back. Not the bike.

Running it with a 100mm fork would feel strange to me as i'm setting at 140mm, but I don't think it wouldn't be a great bike.

I built mine up w/ very all mountain type components and i'm still at 26.5#s. I could shave a few lbs losing the dropper seat and going to a lighter set of wheels.

I will be racing a few local events next season so I guess check back and I can tell you how it did..

Good luck


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

its not that light -- if you dont need the strength, and you only want 100mm fork, there may be better choices. Any (well mostly any) bike with 29er wheels will be more forgiving of pilot error . I have a Kona Big Kahuna too and its lighter and handles well -- just not as fast on a downhill or enduro race track


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

There's no reason why you can't race your Yelli, I have, & will again. It's not optimised for racing but unless you're going for podium, does it really matter? Even if it costs a place or 2?

It's a good fun bike to ride, better to race on what you have and enjoy riding IMO.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

frank6262 said:


> im done with my Cdale F5 26er...ive been eyeing the YS for a xc "race" bike (always last place Sport class but i try!)
> why?
> because im a terrible bike handler/decender... so i want a slack light 29er HT..
> in reading this thread about its short CS and burly build.. is this not the right choice for me? any recomendations?


It most likely will not be the the bike slowing you down, I throw a "race" tire
on the rear of my Yelli and BAM it's a race bike. Run the lightest wheels you can get away with and you will be fine.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

jkidd_39 said:


> It is in the rear. A 10x135 bolt thru fixes that tho.


Actually it is the front where I get a small amount of flex but it is probably because of the 760mm bars and lack of flex from the fork that I am able to notice it.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

its true the yellis are very versatile especially if you have 2 wheelsets. Ive raced mine XC, urban DH, gravity enduro (2 wins in hardtail and 31st overall --all ages and bikes included-- in Pyrenees Gravity Enduro series  Ive also done the 100km Cap Nore XC ride on it. But if you want to race serious XC, there are faster bikes especially as it doesnt go to well with a 80-100mm fork -- I think about 120mm is ideal for the bike, BB low enough, but not too low for pedal strikes (when I tried 100mm -- I was getting a lot of pedal strikes). At 120mm you still have a reasonably high head angle which together with the short chainstays makes it really quite nible and fun too ride
here's mine in various guises:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115795269035553255174/YelliScreamy02?noredirect=1


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Mr. Doom said:


> Actually it is the front where I get a small amount of flex but it is probably because of the 780mm bars and lack of flex from the fork that I am able to notice it.


The bars flexing?? Or the actual frame??

That is some serious torque if your doing that!!!!


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

So i 've setup my yelli with a rigid fork for winter
A voodo zombie 500.
This pic






is from the first shakedown


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

frank6262 said:


> im done with my Cdale F5 26er...ive been eyeing the YS for a xc "race" bike (always last place Sport class but i try!)
> why?
> because im a terrible bike handler/decender... so i want a slack light 29er HT..
> in reading this thread about its short CS and burly build.. is this not the right choice for me? any recomendations?


The yelli is certainly a good descender, and with 120mm fork has excellent all round handling, and I have raced on mine a couple of times. 
Still it wouldn't be my first choice as an XC race bike, as the frame weighs about twice as much as some carbon 29ers - you could never get to a truly competitive weight. I have more fun riding the Yelli than previous XC 29er - One On Scandal - but I've never beaten my old Strava climb PBs on the Yelli. 
Alternatives might be Whyte's carbon 29er, which has similar-ish geometry with 100mm fork, or Pivot LES which takes 120mm. Also the 650b Scott scale 710 looks interesting.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

For reference my XL frame weighs 4.7 lbs


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

you would save 300 - 400g on a XC-specific Al frame compared with the yelli (in medium that is -- yelli 2020g; various Al and Scandium XC frames about 1600-1750g) there are plenty of short-chain-stay XC bikes starting to appear -- to me so long as you are 440mm or less you are going to have a pretty nice handling bike.
Sure the 120mm will get you out of trouble more than a 80mm fork, and you will probably want a burlier frame to handle the extra leverage of a 120mm fork. The right tyres also make a huge difference to handling depending on the conditions.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

jkidd_39 said:


> The bars flexing?? Or the actual frame??
> 
> That is some serious torque if your doing that!!!!


It is the frame,size large I am 180lbs. with a average cyclist build. Direct comparison to my old 26" Chameleon with 680mm bars/Pike and pair of Monocogs. Just sitting on the bike looking down and waging the bars side to side, Thomson post is not flexing.


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## frank6262 (Oct 9, 2006)

*next bike choice*



arclarke said:


> The yelli is certainly a good descender, and with 120mm fork has excellent all round handling, and I have raced on mine a couple of times.
> Still it wouldn't be my first choice as an XC race bike, as the frame weighs about twice as much as some carbon 29ers - you could never get to a truly competitive weight. I have more fun riding the Yelli than previous XC 29er - One On Scandal - but I've never beaten my old Strava climb PBs on the Yelli.
> Alternatives might be Whyte's carbon 29er, which has similar-ish geometry with 100mm fork, or Pivot LES which takes 120mm. Also the 650b Scott scale 710 looks interesting.


yeah i just dont want to screw up my next bike purchase as i will probably have to live with it for a while ... i want a light good climbing 29 HT next...

but if im a poor descender/bike handler, then i shd not choose a quick/agile handing geo right? i want stability and confidence ..will simply switching to a 29er like a Spec Stump Comp or Giant XTC with 70ish HA be ok? i rode a heavy full susp Stumpy once..and loved the raked out front end!


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

frank6262 said:


> but if im a poor descender/bike handler, then i shd not choose a quick/agile handing geo right? i want stability and confidence ..will simply switching to a 29er like a Spec Stump Comp or Giant XTC with 70ish HA be ok? i rode a heavy full susp Stumpy once..and loved the raked out front end!


I think you're getting in a pickle here trying to juggle all this.

Go do some demos, nobody else can tell you what's best for you. Then buy what you enjoy most.

The Yelli climbs well and is a great choice for an all round bike, but a race bike will always be faster, if that matters.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I would try to ride as many as you can. A bike thats too stable can also get you into trouble because you cannot steer the thing round things! Personally Ive not liked any of the Specs 29ers Ive tried -- Epic, Carve, Stumpy they have all been pretty slow steering. I do like my Kona Big Kahuna though and have the 2013 scandium one, the components are mid-range and Ive upgraded most of the bits including new wheelset (Pacenti TL28s with XCray spokes) and its about 11.5kg depending on tyres. My yelli is about 1 to 2 kg heavier depending on wheels and tyres that Im running.
The kona climbs well (I also have a double chainring up front which helps for longer climbs -- the yelli can be a bit troublesome with a multi front chainring I think -- Im running 1x9 on mine)


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## frank6262 (Oct 9, 2006)

fastfish666 said:


> I would try to ride as many as you can. A bike thats too stable can also get you into trouble because you cannot steer the thing round things! Personally Ive not liked any of the Specs 29ers Ive tried -- Epic, Carve, Stumpy they have all been pretty slow steering. I do like my Kona Big Kahuna though and have the 2013 scandium one, the components are mid-range and Ive upgraded most of the bits including new wheelset (Pacenti TL28s with XCray spokes) and its about 11.5kg depending on tyres. My yelli is about 1 to 2 kg heavier depending on wheels and tyres that Im running.
> The kona climbs well (I also have a double chainring up front which helps for longer climbs -- the yelli can be a bit troublesome with a multi front chainring I think -- Im running 1x9 on mine)


on my 26"HT, i seem to be tentative riding fast down fireroads and flowy downhill ST, feeling im gonna lose the front end...no confidence...
so Carve/ Stumpy slow steering? thats what i want! but its geo specs say 71.5HA isnt that steep or are these numbers not to be compred to 26" HA numbers? thx!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Mr. Doom said:


> It is the frame,size large I am 180lbs. with a average cyclist build. Direct comparison to my old 26" Chameleon with 680mm bars/Pike and pair of Monocogs. Just sitting on the bike looking down and waging the bars side to side, Thomson post is not flexing.


Are you sure its not your wheel set flexing and squirming around?


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## YRG (Feb 26, 2012)

What a drag to see discussion about how to pick a bike that is way less fun than a Yeli. Reminds me of the time I saw a guy who was supposed to teaching riding skills who had an xc bike without a dropper or a quick release. The fool was trying to teach skills with a saddle up his ass. Ah well, to each his own.


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

frank6262 said:


> on my 26"HT, i seem to be tentative riding fast down fireroads and flowy downhill ST, feeling im gonna lose the front end...no confidence...
> so Carve/ Stumpy slow steering? thats what i want! but its geo specs say 71.5HA isnt that steep or are these numbers not to be compred to 26" HA numbers? thx!


This sounds more like a tire/technique issue. Some wider bars might also help.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

This is my take on steering  open to other povs :-0
at slow speed the HA is important because you turn the bars and turn the front wheel.
at high speed you push the bar down and lean the bike, the bars are turned less (maybe a fraction to initiate the turn, and you might even counter-steer a fraction to lean the bike) so at high speed steering is less affected by HA, but the chainstay length comes in to play if you use your hips to guide the bike round.
HA tends to be maybe 1-2 deg steeper on a 29er than on a 26er and fork offset a bit higher -- both of these give you about the same steering trail on a 29er as on a 26er.

regarding bar width and stem length -- I feel that as the bars get wider, the stem needs to get shorter. Ive ridden a friends Spec.Epic with 700mm bars and 110mm stem and you REALLY had to focus had on the steering -- it was so low! you had to really think about the next turn coming up and initiate the turn and get round slowly -- like driving a bus! On my medium yelli (Im 5'11") I have a 80mm stem (which isnt extremely short) and 680mm bars (which isnt that wide), and you can just chuck it into corners and it goes round without having to think about it. {it would be interesting to try a large frame with say 50mm stem and 710mm bars}
dunno if that makes any sense or helps you at all ;-)


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

YRG said:


> What a drag to see discussion about how to pick a bike that is way less fun than a Yeli. Reminds me of the time I saw a guy who was supposed to teaching riding skills who had an xc bike without a dropper or a quick release. The fool was trying to teach skills with a saddle up his ass. Ah well, to each his own.


what may be fun to one person may not be fun to another -- I love my yelli and ridden it in loads of different situations, but other people prefer comfort of a fully suss bike and others might prefer something a bit more sedate -- as you say, to each their own. I would definitely say that a 29er will help you build confidence compared with a 26er, but other than that, try as many as you can before you buy


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

fastfish666 said:


> This is my take on steering  open to other povs :-0
> at slow speed the HA is important because you turn the bars and turn the front wheel.
> at high speed you push the bar down and lean the bike, the bars are turned less (maybe a fraction to initiate the turn, and you might even counter-steer a fraction to lean the bike) so at high speed steering is less affected by HA, but the chainstay length comes in to play if you use your hips to guide the bike round.
> HA tends to be maybe 1-2 deg steeper on a 29er than on a 26er and fork offset a bit higher -- both of these give you about the same steering trail on a 29er as on a 26er.
> ...


I agree with everything you said, bar width is a huge factor and often overlooked when comparing the geometry/handling/fit of different bikes.

I am about 5'11" and run a large Yelli with a 65mm stem and 760 bars, just about perfect for the trails in my hood. I do have a longish torso and find a short TT is uncomfortable on longer rides and long stem is no fun on steep DH.


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

I find the Yelli head angle increases the trail and makes things more stable - compared with old school 72deg 29er this is great. The steep head angle was usually OK but sometimes when compressing the fork on downhill bends the front end just folded up somehow a few times - not good for my confidence.
With the Yelli forks at 140mm the descending was secure, but tight singletrack was too tight. Dropped forks to 120mm and everything is just right. I also dropped 750 bars to 710 - wide enough for me and doesn't get stuck between trees


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

arclarke said:


> I find the Yelli head angle increases the trail and makes things more stable - compared with old school 72deg 29er this is great.


yep, thats right -- steaper headangle = less steering trail = more stable. Because of the larger wheel diameter on a 29er you get more steering trail compared with a 26er if the HA and fork rake are the same. Normally you increase both a bit to get towards a similar value for both wheel sizes. But increasing HA reduces wheelbase (and increases chance of toe overlap) whereas increasing fork rake (like fisher G2 geometry) increases the wheelbase. I had a Salsa Mamasita with 72deg HA and 51mm offset G2 forks -- it was pretty nimble at slow speed -- due to high HA and reasonably stable at higher speed due to greater wheelbase. That said I wouldnt ride it as fast on rough downhills as the yelli -- the bigger fork (120mm vs 80mm) and slacker HA on the yelli can get you out of trouble if you mess up a bit


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

*Yelli vs Chromag Surface?*

Is anyone able to give a like-for-like on a Yelli with a Chromag Surface?

I realise the N9 is an option too, though it seems a 1/2 pound heavier, surprising given how strongly built my Yelli is.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

I hope they use a proper ruler for when they actually build the Chromag frames 
Surface | Frames | Products
Toptube Length (effective)	
22.25" 556mm	
23" 575mm	
23.5"587mm	
24.4" 610mm	
25" 625mm


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## frank6262 (Oct 9, 2006)

steaper headangle = less steering trail = more stable. Because of the larger wheel diameter on a 29er you get more steering trail compared with a 26er if the HA and fork rake are the same. Normally you increase both a bit to get towards a similar value for both wheel sizes.... the bigger fork (120mm vs 80mm) and slacker HA on the yelli can get you out of trouble if you mess up a bit 


is this correct? wont a steeper HA/less trail... be less stable?

all i know is i want to choose a HT with geometry that doesnt feel switchy bombing down a fireroad... stability/confidence/not needing to totally focus on front end/steering... i guess a slow steering bike?

the Yelli.. or a Trek x-caliber?


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

yeah sorry less steering trail is less stable -- not sure what I was thinking


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

"the Yelli.. or a Trek x-caliber"

The Trek looks less slack though I don't know what fork travel the geometry chart is using.

If you can, try both. You'll probably get more for your money with the Trek, Yellis aren't cheap.

Nobody on here is going to diss the Yelli though. Me included.


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

Ive been riding my yelli and kona kahuna back to back a fair bit on the same trails lately -- but the yellis been at night. I like an "engaging" ride -- thats why I dont particularly like dualsus bikes and tend towards a more nimble handling bike.
On a XC circuit with climbing and technical descents the Kona is faster basically because its lighter I can climb better on it. The kona is also pretty good on twisty technical descents so long as there arnt any really big drops. The yelli is better on more open descents where you can get right off the brakes, but things are less likely to go badly wrong if something unexpected comes up. Im also less scared of breaking the Yelli. Frame wise Id say the yelli is about 500g heavier than the Kona. And you can build up the yelli as a XC bike with light wheels, tyres and components and be pretty close to the Kona -- maybe 12kg without breaking the bank. My yeli is approaching 14kg because of the burly wheels and tyres Im running and because I also have a 9-Speed 11-36 cassette that weighs a ton.
To be honest I think tyres are going to make a way bigger difference to how the bike feels rather than 1 or 0.5 deg head angle change. 1 deg head angle is maybe about 20mm sag in the fork. Finally I would definitely recommend 120mm forks if you go with the yelli -- I think 140 is maybe overkill unless you are heading towards the free-ride end of the spectrum; 100mm seemed a bit short to me and I was getting pedal strikes. With 120mm Ive raced mine reasonably successfully in XC and Enduro with two sets of wheels and tyres. My current favourite rear tyre is the High Roller II from maxxis and the ardent is pretty good on the front so long as its not sticky mud. For more hard pack I might go Icon -- thats what I have on the Kona for XC racing
The trek has older 29er geo rear stays that are quite long 445mm -- this will slow down the high-speed handling of the bike a fair bit -- especially compared with the yelli which are at about 424mm The Kona Kahuna is 440 and personally Id not go any longer than that. I have to say that Id like to try a Kona Taro -- but I dont think there is any way you'd get a Front-der on it so you have to run 1x9,10,11 setup which might be limiting depending on where you ride. Depending on your budget you might get more bang for your buck with the Kona (personally Id be leaning more Kona than Trek -- Ive had Fishers 26ers back last century, and they were great and GF definitely put the 29er in the mainstream, but I feel that they are lagging behind a bit now in terms of geometry -- not that Ive ridden one mind you


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## copylatte (Sep 24, 2011)

*YS black chrome on order...*



fastfish666 said:


> Ive been riding my yelli and kona kahuna back to back a fair bit on the same trails lately -- but the yellis been at night. I like an "engaging" ride -- thats why I dont particularly like dualsus bikes and tend towards a more nimble handling bike.
> On a XC circuit with climbing and technical descents the Kona is faster basically because its lighter I can climb better on it. The kona is also pretty good on twisty technical descents so long as there arnt any really big drops. The yelli is better on more open descents where you can get right off the brakes, but things are less likely to go badly wrong if something unexpected comes up. Im also less scared of breaking the Yelli. Frame wise Id say the yelli is about 500g heavier than the Kona. And you can build up the yelli as a XC bike with light wheels, tyres and components and be pretty close to the Kona -- maybe 12kg without breaking the bank. My yeli is approaching 14kg because of the burly wheels and tyres Im running and because I also have a 9-Speed 11-36 cassette that weighs a ton.
> To be honest I think tyres are going to make a way bigger difference to how the bike feels rather than 1 or 0.5 deg head angle change. 1 deg head angle is maybe about 20mm sag in the fork. Finally I would definitely recommend 120mm forks if you go with the yelli -- I think 140 is maybe overkill unless you are heading towards the free-ride end of the spectrum; 100mm seemed a bit short to me and I was getting pedal strikes. With 120mm Ive raced mine reasonably successfully in XC and Enduro with two sets of wheels and tyres. My current favourite rear tyre is the High Roller II from maxxis and the ardent is pretty good on the front so long as its not sticky mud. For more hard pack I might go Icon -- thats what I have on the Kona for XC racing
> The trek has older 29er geo rear stays that are quite long 445mm -- this will slow down the high-speed handling of the bike a fair bit -- especially compared with the yelli which are at about 424mm The Kona Kahuna is 440 and personally Id not go any longer than that. I have to say that Id like to try a Kona Taro -- but I dont think there is any way you'd get a Front-der on it so you have to run 1x9,10,11 setup which might be limiting depending on where you ride. Depending on your budget you might get more bang for your buck with the Kona (personally Id be leaning more Kona than Trek -- Ive had Fishers 26ers back last century, and they were great and GF definitely put the 29er in the mainstream, but I feel that they are lagging behind a bit now in terms of geometry -- not that Ive ridden one mind you


Thanks for all the input mtbr community! This forum encouraged me to call canfield since I've been examining the geo of the ys, nimble 9, 2souls QH, Transition TransAm, Titus Fireline, Trek Stache, Kona Taro, etc. etc. for the last several months.

I called today and was sold within minutes. Very good customer service. A black chrome is on its way.

I believe my Smoothie Mixer headset from On-One will fit this frame, but wondered if anyone has any input on that. The headtube is tapered on both frames (On-One Scandal and YS) and I have the Smoothie Mixer with the appropriate crown/spacer for my 1 1/8 straight steer fork....so I don't anticipate any problems with switching it over. Anyone with experience with that headset here?


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## fastfish666 (Aug 24, 2007)

You need a 44mm dia upper cup and a 49.6mm dia lower cup
If you have an internal/zero-stack 49.6mm lower cup you can only run a straight 1.125" steerer. If you have an external cup lower you can run a tapered steerer

Check with calipers to see the external diam of the headset cups where it fits into the frame. But they say it fits the carbon 456 and that states the same headtube specs as the Yelli so all should be good.
On-One Carbon 456 Frame
On-One Smoothie Mixer Tapered Headset


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## copylatte (Sep 24, 2011)

fastfish666 said:


> You need a 44mm dia upper cup and a 49.6mm dia lower cup
> If you have an internal/zero-stack 49.6mm lower cup you can only run a straight 1.125" steerer. If you have an external cup lower you can run a tapered steerer
> 
> Check with calipers to see the external diam of the headset cups where it fits into the frame. But they say it fits the carbon 456 and that states the same headtube specs as the Yelli so all should be good.
> ...


Excellent. Thanks for taking the time and posting the info! Super stoked to get the frame....


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## jeremyreed (Jan 5, 2014)

Getting my YELLI Monday.Installing a raceface ride xc single ring 32t with bashgurad. They tell me ill just need to use a spindle spacer with the bb spacer.Anyone else have input on this ? Thanks

Jeremy Reed


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

jeremyreed said:


> Getting my YELLI Monday.Installing a raceface ride xc single ring 32t with bashgurad. They tell me ill just need to use a spindle spacer with the bb spacer.Anyone else have input on this ? Thanks
> 
> Jeremy Reed


Have fun with the driveline. The yelli is very tight in this regard. You will prob need one or two 2.5mm spacers to clear the chain stays.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

jeremyreed said:


> Getting my YELLI Monday.Installing a raceface ride xc single ring 32t with bashgurad. They tell me ill just need to use a spindle spacer with the bb spacer.Anyone else have input on this ? Thanks
> 
> Jeremy Reed


Which crank?


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## jeremyreed (Jan 5, 2014)

jkidd_39 said:


> Have fun with the driveline. The yelli is very tight in this regard. You will prob need one or two 2.5mm spacers to clear the chain stays.


10-4...Lots of people run a 1x9 so I guess it pretty doable..

Jeremy Reed


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## jeremyreed (Jan 5, 2014)

The raceface ride xc crank/combo with 32t and bashguard..Sean at Canfield said I woild just need to run a spacer on the dr side. .

Jeremy Reed


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## jeremyreed (Jan 5, 2014)

Its on my cannondale right now..has the external bb...









Jeremy Reed


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

jeremyreed said:


> The raceface ride xc crank/combo with 32t and bashguard..Sean at Canfield said I woild just need to run a spacer on the dr side. .
> 
> Jeremy Reed


I wasn't thinking. It will be fine with the bash. I was thinking chainguide. That makes it much tighter.


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## pointerDixie214 (Feb 10, 2009)

jkidd_39 said:


> I wasn't thinking. It will be fine with the bash. I was thinking chainguide. That makes it much tighter.


I must have just gotten very lucky. Put a chainguide and a 32t up front to run 1x10. Shimano Hone cranks. No chainline issues at all and no clearance issues.

Better lucky than good I always say.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

pointerDixie214 said:


> I must have just gotten very lucky. Put a chainguide and a 32t up front to run 1x10. Shimano Hone cranks. No chainline issues at all and no clearance issues.
> 
> Better lucky than good I always say.


Shimano cranks have a lot more adjustability than race face/sram cranks. That IMHO is the only advantage shimano has.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

jkidd_39 said:


> Shimano cranks have a lot more adjustability than race face/sram cranks. That IMHO is the only advantage shimano has.


I loved my SLX doubles, but I won't buy another Shimano crankset unless they move to removable spiders. You lose so much flexibility without them.


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Fingers crossed theres an XL ano blue somewhere in the world! Got a lovely build lined up ... just need the right coloured frame 

Had a test ride on Saturday and was impressed, really lively bike for a 29er.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jeremyreed said:


> The raceface ride xc crank/combo with 32t and bashguard..Sean at Canfield said I woild just need to run a spacer on the dr side. .
> 
> Jeremy Reed


jenson is selling this crank right now for $62 for the triple. If i were you I would buy that and the race face narrow wide ring and skip the chain guide altogether.
Race Face Ride Crankset Oe 2010 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

EDIT : just realized you already have the crank. I'd still ditch the chain guide and buy a narrow wide ring


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Well, deposit down, just gotta wait till the next production run in the summer so I can get my hands on an XL


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

I also posted this in the Canfield forum...

I'm going to throw a 140mm Rock Shox Pike on the YS. Thoughts on which offset to go with?

I'm also considering an X01 drivetrain. Currently I'm using a 1x9 set-up with a X-9 crankset and a 32T MRP Bling Ring. I'm hoping to just swap out the MRP ring with a 32T or 30T Wolftooth narrow wide chainring and extra XO1 bits. Any thoughts or wisdom?


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## cSquared (Jun 8, 2006)

Love the feel of 140 on our hardtails.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm running the race face 30T narrow wide on an slx triple crank with 10sp 11-36 on the back. Its great

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

OldHouseMan said:


> I also posted this in the Canfield forum...
> 
> I'm going to throw a 140mm Rock Shox Pike on the YS. Thoughts on which offset to go with?
> 
> I'm also considering an X01 drivetrain. Currently I'm using a 1x9 set-up with a X-9 crankset and a 32T MRP Bling Ring. I'm hoping to just swap out the MRP ring with a 32T or 30T Wolftooth narrow wide chainring and extra XO1 bits. Any thoughts or wisdom?


I couldn't fit wolftooth direct mount 32t chainring on my GXP cranks without scraping the chainstay - 30t is fine (and so is a Works Components 32t direct mount - this one has slightly wider chainline than wolftooth).

I tried my Revelations at 140mm but prefer them at 120mm - the offset is standard 46mm - dropping to 120 quickened up the steering and the BB is still plenty high enough.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Hi Im phillip from Greece!!this thread its very nice thanks all for your opinions for that bike!If anyone sell only frame in anycolor in medium send me pm or mail thanks a lot and when i finished my own i post photos and setup for sure!


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## chugachjed (May 20, 2010)

Anybody parting with their old XL Yelli? I'm having a hard time waiting for new production. Bueller.... Bueller?


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

I have a small YS for sale in the classified section.It is in great shape.


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## bennyblanco2121 (Feb 2, 2012)

Kell12 how tall are you? 


Sent from my iPhone in New Orleans.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Wrongpost


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Kell12 said:


> I have a small YS for sale in the classified section.It is in great shape.


I send you 2 pm's did you get it or not?I got one medium orange from antonio and one friend tell me want the same frame in small if you sell it send me pm please!


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

I switched my 50mm stem out for 35mm, amazed the difference it makes, it's not like 50mm is long! A small pressure on a grip or a weight shift, and the bike is changing direction, it feels like a BMXer (or like I think a BMXer probably feels).


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## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

cSquared said:


> Love the feel of 140 on our hardtails.


I liked it but it got better when I installed a -1.5 deg angleset from works component..the bike felt more planted.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

you slackened a another 1.5 degrees ? down to about 65.5? 

I didn't try my Yelli past 120 mm ... yet. Really not sure I need any more, guess it depends where you ride.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

What stem is that? I'm running a 50mm myself and wouldn't mind dropping it down to 35mm.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/STEGCO/el-guapo-corto-stem

It's light.

Kore do a good looking one too.


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

*Yelli Screamy 1x9 (or 1x10) with Race Face Narrow / Wide 30T and XT M785 crank (2x10)*

This info may be out there but I couldn't really find it so I wanted to create a post to address the following question:

Will the Race Face Narrow / Wide 30 tooth chainring work with the Shimano XT M785 (2x10 version) crankset on a Yelli Screamy?

Short answer = YES!

BACKGROUND
I initially built my Yelli with a 1x9 drivetrain using the Shimano XT M780 (3x10 version) crankset and Renthal 32t chainring. The problem I encountered was that the chainring did not clear the chain stays on the Yelli with the crankset installed per the Shimano tech doc specs (Yelli has a 73 mm bottom bracket shell. Shimano specs call for a single 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side). In order to get the Renthal ring to fit I had to add an additional spacer. I used the BB mount MRP 1X chainguide. So, to clarify, my crankset was intstalled with both a single 2.5 mm BB spacer and the MRP 1X BB mount on the drive side. Roughly equivalent to two 2.5mm spacers

This setup creates two problems.
1) It moves the chain line further out.
2) It makes it difficult to get the XT stopper plate in position and probably puts a little two much pressure on the BB bearings.

It worked but I was never real happy with the setup.

So, I decided to try the Narrow Wide 30T ring paired with the XT M785 cranks. In short, it worked. This setup allowed me to accomplish 4 things.

1) ditch the chain guide in favor of a narrow wide ring
2) achieve slightly easier gear ratios with my 1x9 setup
3) move the chainring inward and improve the chain line to the lower gears on my cassette
4) use the proper setup (single 2.5 mm spacer) on my crankset

Here is photo of the setup and chain stay clearance













The chain stay clearance is tight. I don't have a precise measurement but the clearance appears to be identical to what I had with the Renthal ring. There is room to slide a dime between the Wide teeth and the stay. A quarter almost fits but not quite. There is room for a quarter between the Narrow teeth and the stay. Two dimes almost fit but not quite.

CHAINRING BOLTS
According to the following tech specs from Race Face I should be using and 8.5mm chainring bolt with the XT crankset. NOTE: 8.5 mm bolts are the stock bolts used for the bigger ring on XT cranksets

http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T_NW_RING_HARDWARE_COMPATIBILITY_CHART.pdf

However, the 8.5 mm bolts do not fill all of the threads in the 30T ring. It's probably fine but I just ordered a set of 10 mm bolts from Wolftooth (Set of 4 Chainring Bolts for 104 x 30T (10 mm long) ? wolftoothcomponents.com). These slightly longer bolts should fully thread into the chainring and provide a slightly stronger, more secure attachment to the XT crank.

RELEVANT YELLI BUILD SPECS
-Large Yelli frame
-XT M785 cranks
-Race Face Narrow / Wide 30T
-SRAM 9 speed chain
-SRAM 32T 9 speed cassette
-X7 RD (no clutch)
-X9 shifter

I hope that this info is not redundant and that it will help someone considering a similar build.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

cpfitness said:


> I'm running the race face 30T narrow wide on an slx triple crank with 10sp 11-36 on the back. Its great
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


I am trying to install the same ring on an slx triple. First try I couldn't get it to fit. I have the stock slx chain ring bolts. Did you use an extra long bolt? Did you use the race face spacers? i probably need to relax and try it again, maybe beer will help....


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

I'm asking myself... Why buy a YS instead of a relatively cheaper fullsus like giant trance x? For a little price diff you'd get an fs frame.

BTW I'm waiting for the restock of M ano green.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

spyghost said:


> I'm asking myself... Why buy a YS instead of a relatively cheaper fullsus like giant trance x? For a little price diff you'd get an fs frame.
> 
> BTW I'm waiting for the restock of M ano green.


A little price.diff? Trance frame retails for $900 more. Even if you can get it for $500 more, that $500 can practically buy an xt group set for the yelli. Besides, some people like the ride of a hard tail better

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

cjsb said:


> I am trying to install the same ring on an slx triple. First try I couldn't get it to fit. I have the stock slx chain ring bolts. Did you use an extra long bolt? Did you use the race face spacers? i probably need to relax and try it again, maybe beer will help....


Your doing something wrong, I have a 30T race face nw ring on my Slx triple with no issues. 30t ring doesn't need spacers with the stock bolts since the ring itself has the threads








Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

spyghost said:


> I'm asking myself... Why buy a YS instead of a relatively cheaper fullsus like giant trance x? For a little price diff you'd get an fs frame.
> 
> BTW I'm waiting for the restock of M ano green.


This is an apples to oranges comparison IMHO. The yelli (as well as the N9) cover such a broad range of uses. From an All-mountain HT to a Rigid SS.

The Trance X is a trail bike that can be can be pushed into the AM realm with beefier wheels and a good rider.

The yelli will be much more playful than the Trance. The chainstays are much shorter on the yelli so it will handle much differently.

The other thing is the yelli was the first 29er to really knock it's way out of the long chainstays and 71 degree HA. It is AFAIK the first 29er to really wanna get thrown around.

I don't think many people out there will be comparing these vastly different options.

You will love the yelli btw!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Well, I just thought of it for the sake of an fs frame. But yeah you mentioned the good stuff in a YS that pulled me into it - slack ha, short cs, 140 fork.

Can't wait for the new stock to arrive!


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

spyghost said:


> Well, I just thought of it for the sake of an fs frame. But yeah you mentioned the good stuff in a YS that pulled me into it - slack ha, short cs, 140 fork.
> 
> Can't wait for the new stock to arrive!


Yeah. For what it's worth I'm selling my yelli that is set up atm 140mm fork/SS to build a rigid SS Nimble 9 and add a 140/130mm FS 29er trail bike.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Why not have a Yelli Screamy and a FS bike?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

jeffw-13 said:


> Why not have a Yelli Screamy and a FS bike?
> 
> View attachment 896299
> 
> ...


Wow. We have very similar yelli's.









And I only had to ride a Nimble 9 for about 10 yards to fall in love. My trails are terribly chattery. Always gotta have a Canfield!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

For arguments sake (friendly that is), why would a biker replace a YS with an FS other than wanting one? Let's put it this way, what can't a YS do so that one will replace it with an FS frame? I'm thinking DH/FR but what if the trail is just a trail?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

jeff what's your FS? Good idea to have both (wife's gonna kill me lol)


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

spyghost said:


> For arguments sake (friendly that is), why would a biker replace a YS with an FS other than wanting one? Let's put it this way, what can't a YS do so that one will replace it with an FS frame? I'm thinking DH/FR but what if the trail is just a trail?


My own reasoning for getting a FS bike is as follows... When really railing through berms on my Yelli I lose speed entering the berm and then gain it through the berm. With a FS bike I will compress the suspension entering the berm and it will shoot me out never losing speed. Also when going down slow technical rocks I can keep the rear planted a little better.

None of these things are b/c of the bike. They are b/c of my lack of skills. Put a fantastic rider on anything and they can ride it well.

I will actually be going backwards in a few ways. I will be going from a 16.3 chainstay to a 17.5 CS. I think this will be giving me a little stability on the downhill and keep the front end down on the climbs.

If money was abundant I would be building a Norco Range w/ a Pike up front.. but i'm not made of $$$ so I can snag a FS frame for $750 and I got the wheels/Dropper/Drivetrain.. All i need is a 29er Pike and I'm good to go.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

wrong post


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

I sent my medium frame there - so if anyone wants info on the shipping, it was VERY easy and roughly the same price as shipping inside the states!


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

spyghost said:


> For arguments sake (friendly that is), why would a biker replace a YS with an FS other than wanting one? Let's put it this way, what can't a YS do so that one will replace it with an FS frame? I'm thinking DH/FR but what if the trail is just a trail?


Im old. Some of the places I ride are rough and I hurt for days when I ride them on a hardtail. That being said I just ordered a rigid singlespeed, so take anything I say with a grain of salt. The FS is a Kona Satori.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

jeffw-13 said:


> Im old. Some of the places I ride are rough and I hurt for days when I ride them on a hardtail.


Same here. The rocky/rooty New England trails are hell on my decrepit back. I converted mine to SS which makes it more bearable since it forces you off the seat.



jeffw-13 said:


> The FS is a Kona Satori.


And same here!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Im looking to buy a frame Yelli Screamy in small\medium any color but you have to send it in Greece!
Anyone have one they're looking to sell? PM or mail me [email protected]
with close photos price with shippings!

thanks in advice!


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Anyone got any pics of an ano blue with white rims? Cant decide on black or white :/


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## wingman_214 (May 4, 2012)

Sorry, I don't have white rims but I do have an ano blue Yellow with black American Classic wheels.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

White look pretty (been there done that) but aren't worth the weight penalty. I had Stans white Arches and they were almost 50 grams heavier, just cause of the white! 50 grams isn't the end of the world, but rims and tires are the only place where weight savings will really matter. If you wanna add 50grm of rotating weight, I think you're better off getting burlier tires.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

I'm skeptical. If the white was powder coat and the black anno then I can see how the white would be heavier. But the anno process for white should not result on a weight difference. At only 50g difference I'd attribute the weight difference to something else.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

This is based on old Stan's archs.

ZTR Arch 29" - 32 Hole White
ZTR Arch 29"- 32 Hole Black

30grams/wheel - my bad.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

whatever the reason, white Stan's are heavier black


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

All white is painted, its the same with spokes. Paint is heavier than ano. No such thing as white ano.


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Ah well, I've got white now ... to be honest 30g isnt going to make or break a ride, even a 4 or 5 hour epic... the tyres have more than 30g of crud stuck on them if its been raining out.

Oh, heres a quick photoshop I did the other day:


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

White IS Powder Coat, NOT ano.


BlueDragonX said:


> I'm skeptical. If the white was powder coat and the black anno then I can see how the white would be heavier. But the anno process for white should not result on a weight difference. At only 50g difference I'd attribute the weight difference to something else.
> 
> 
> ghetto said:
> ...


Man, what size is that and when is the next size up going to be delivered to you? Seriously, that saddle is way past where it should be on the rails and that's a whopper of a stem for a Yelli, even if you are using it for XC stuff.


wingman_214 said:


> Sorry, I don't have white rims but I do have an ano blue Yellow with black American Classic wheels.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

The white does look good. I do miss the way my bike looked with white, but wtb don't offer colour options and I was set on the KOMs


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## pointerDixie214 (Feb 10, 2009)

LyNx said:


> Man, what size is that and when is the next size up going to be delivered to you? Seriously, that saddle is way past where it should be on the rails and that's a whopper of a stem for a Yelli, even if you are using it for XC stuff.


I thought the same thing... Sweet looking bike, but it's too small for the rider.


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Just want to stop in and say that after the better part of 4 years I finally got my yelli on some real jumps, table tops in a bike park, and felt immediately comfortable. I had just hit little poppers on the trails previously and I'm not even a great jumper. I can't wait to hit them again. I've demoed a bunch of the new 650b enduro bikes lately but I still love my 29er ht.


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## mxer (May 27, 2006)

HVskier,i feel it has a combo of attributes.Feels like a bmx bike,a moto bike and a unicycle all in one!The harder you push it the better they handle!I totally forget I am on a 29'er except for the rollover of the larger wheels.Great fun with the best customer service imho!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Im looking to buy a frame Yelli Screamy in small\medium any color but you have to send it in Greece!
Anyone have one they're looking to sell? PM or mail me [email protected]
with close photos price with shippings!

thanks in advice!


----------



## doul (Apr 28, 2014)

Hi,
my Yelli Screamy is ready for my future trips!! I have to say a very big Thanks to member antonio for the frame, it is in excellent condition and we had great communication to sending me here to Greece, and sorry for the many many photos that I asked :thumbsup: :thumbsup: .


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

No problem. Enjoy!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Who stands 5'8"? What YS frame size for a build with 50mm stem? S or M?


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## Kell12 (Jan 22, 2013)

I would go medium. i had a small at 5'7" and had to run a 100mm stem and was still a little cramped seated.Standing had my weight perfect but i thought if i got another one i would go for medium with a shorter stem.


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

spyghost said:


> Who stands 5'8"? What YS frame size for a build with 50mm stem? S or M?


I'm same height and went with a medium frame, 120mm fork and 50mm stem. Wait until you sit on the bike before committing to your stem.


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

spyghost said:


> Who stands 5'8"? What YS frame size for a build with 50mm stem? S or M?


Medium.

When you can, try a shorter stem too, I like 35mm.


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## orlowskij (Sep 20, 2006)

Definitely a medium. I'm 5'8" (with long arms) and a 60mm on a medium was short for me.

Also, my medium YS is up now in the classifieds.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Any news if any of the pre orders have been shipped?


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Mines at the shop being built this week


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

My frame came from the 2011 batch of frames that were made in size XL.

I attempted to mount a 32T raceface n/w ring on my slx cranks in the middle position. One 2.5mm spacer on the drive side BB cup. I am getting interference between chain ring and chainstay. 
The narrow teeth clear the frame, but the wide teeth do not. Chainline sits at 48.5mm, which is 1.5mm too close at least. (I'm pretty sure this frame needs 50 or 51mm as the ideal chainline?)

I have a .7mm , 1.8mm and 2.5mm spacer as spares. I'm thinking of pulling the driveside bb cup and adding the 1.8mm spacer as well to push the chainline out to 50.3ish millimetre.

30T is too small, so I need to get this 32T to fit.


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

JoshM said:


> My frame came from the 2011 batch of frames that were made in size XL.
> 
> I attempted to mount a 32T raceface n/w ring on my slx cranks in the middle position. One 2.5mm spacer on the drive side BB cup. I am getting interference between chain ring and chainstay.
> The narrow teeth clear the frame, but the wide teeth do not. Chainline sits at 48.5mm, which is 1.5mm too close at least. (I'm pretty sure this frame needs 50 or 51mm as the ideal chainline?)
> ...


Be interested how this goes, I'm on a 30T now which is going on the Yelli but would like to move up to a 32T soon. Unless to 2014 frames will take a 32T more easily?


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

JoshM said:


> My frame came from the 2011 batch of frames that were made in size XL.
> 
> I attempted to mount a 32T raceface n/w ring on my slx cranks in the middle position. One 2.5mm spacer on the drive side BB cup. I am getting interference between chain ring and chainstay.
> The narrow teeth clear the frame, but the wide teeth do not. Chainline sits at 48.5mm, which is 1.5mm too close at least. (I'm pretty sure this frame needs 50 or 51mm as the ideal chainline?)
> ...


I had the same problem. I ended up putting two 2.5mm spacers on the driveside. The problem is that this puts the shimano "stopper plate" out of alignment with the little hole in the crank spindle. I had to really crank down on the shimano button tooth and was worried about too much preload on the BB. My setup was:

XT triple crank
32T renthal ring
Large Yelli

PS: I hated the chainline with the two 2.5mm spacers. Switched to an XT dobule crank with RF NW 30T ring. I like this setup much better. Details here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/yelli-screamy-canfield-644944-110.html#post11222716


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I found a bb wrench and added the 1.8mm spacer to the mix giving me 4.3mm of spacers (2.5+1.8). It clears now and spins fine and I have a perfect chainline at just a hair over 50mm. 
The 1.8mm and 2.5mm spacers both came in the box with my shimano BB I picked up at my lbs.


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## bennyblanco2121 (Feb 2, 2012)

Anyone selling a medium frame? Pm me please. Thanks


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

morganfletcher said:


> Here's a new pic of mine. Did a rad day out on some sweet trails with it, 2nd ride with 1x10 gears, 1st ride with a Reverb dropper seatpost. (Have three now, all but one bike have them.) Running the MRP 1x guide, using the direct-mount version. Gears are 32x11-36, 10spd, X.9 short-cage rear derailleur, X.9 shifter.
> 
> 
> I love my bike by fnagrom, on Flickr
> ...


Latest incarnation, rebuilt with some new parts:


WTB Volt saddle
Chromag OSX bars
X1 1x11 drivetrain, 30T front
SRAM ROAM 60 wheels
Hans Dampf 2.35 tires F&R (pictures show Ardent 2.25 rear)
Spank Spike flat pedals

Pics














































Love it, it's better than ever.

Morgan


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

^ any rub with the Dampf in the rear? I found mine rubbed under hard pedaling and cornering.


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

JoshM said:


> ^ any rub with the Dampf in the rear? I found mine rubbed under hard pedaling and cornering.


I'm running carbon rims, which help a bit with flex, but yeah I get a bit of "hurrr, hurrr, hurrr" on really steep climbs. Worth it. When I hear that sound, I know I'm getting after it.  The rubber may self-clearance. The extra tire volume is worth it to me.

Morgan


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## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

*New toys are awesome...*

It's finally done, and it's all mine!


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## tyder (Aug 27, 2012)

Very nice!!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice work!!!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Hi to all the yelli owners....Im building small frame in black and Im little confused with the crank,want to install 2x10!Will I have space problem with 26x38 chainrings or not?
If there is a problem I will go in the 3x10 and take off the 3rd ring with bashguard with 24x32!
I will post photos when it will finished because right now are in a piecies 
sorry for my bad english!

build specs
frame small black
revelation RCT3 solo air 140mm
full groupset slx
novatec 4in1 with Flow ex rims dt swiss competition spokes
exaform eten dropper
sixpack leader 750 bar with sixpack sam 50mm stem
tyres dhl 2.3 front and rear maybe with juice inside


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> Hi to all the yelli owners....Im building small frame in black and Im little confused with the crank,want to install 2x10!Will I have space problem with 26x38 chainrings or not?
> If there is a problem I will go in the 3x10 and take off the 3rd ring with bashguard with 24x32!
> I will post photos when it will finished because right now are in a piecies
> sorry for my bad english!
> ...


For a 2x10 X9 crankset you will need one spacer on the drive side and flip the 38t around to offset the big ring outward. (If that makes sense)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

Wouldn't flipping the big ring compromise shifting? The ramps are only on one side.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

BlueDragonX said:


> Wouldn't flipping the big ring compromise shifting? The ramps are only on one side.


Hmm. That's a good call. Never thought about that. I'm running a 38t ring in a SS setup so I don't worry about shifting.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

only shimano I want to use...if I go with sram i will get the 1x10 for sure 

anyone else about my problem.....

my frame....in the first steps.....

special thanks to member roxie for the nice used frame in perfect condition!


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## nanook93 (Oct 16, 2008)

Darksoul said:


> Hi to all the yelli owners....Im building small frame in black and Im little confused with the crank,want to install 2x10!Will I have space problem with 26x38 chainrings or not?
> If there is a problem I will go in the 3x10 and take off the 3rd ring with bashguard with 24x32!


I used a Race Face Turbine 2x10 24-36-bash on my large, blue Y-S frame (see a few posts above). The clearance with the 36T ring is REALLY tight; I definitely could NOT run a 38T large ring on mine...


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks for the info nanook93!!!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Not sure on the ramped ring flipped if you'd run into issues because of the stamping, but I don't run ramped rings on my 2x setup, just single ring 38t rings and the shifting is absolutely fine. Have both a RF single ring and Blackspire DH.


BlueDragonX said:


> Wouldn't flipping the big ring compromise shifting? The ramps are only on one side.





jkidd_39 said:


> Hmm. That's a good call. Never thought about that. I'm running a 38t ring in a SS setup so I don't worry about shifting.


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## Colin2 (Nov 26, 2014)

*Error*

Error. Please ignore.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Anyone ever ran a 34t single in YS? Im looking at building mine with absolute black oval ring








, or


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

It won't fit without an absurd amount of offset. Your chainline will hate you.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

BlueDragonX said:


> It won't fit without an absurd amount of offset. Your chainline will hate you.


This. They make it in a 32T version, you could always try that.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Thats the 32t version... 30t smallest diameter, 34t biggest


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

spyghost said:


> Thats the 32t version... 30t smallest diameter, 34t biggest


You are going to have to be the first to try. I can't remember anyone posting about using an oval ring in this thread. If the diameter is the same as a traditional 34T at it's largest point, then you are likely to have clearance issues when mounting your cranks.

What cranks are you going to try?


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

Also, note that the 104bcd version is offset to the inside as well, so if a standard 34 won't work, then that one definitely won't.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Im looking at using a 2x slx


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

spyghost said:


> Im looking at using a 2x slx


I bought 2x10 slx 24x38 maybe in one week has to be in my hands!!I saw two people in this forum to have it and installed without a problem!!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

In a 2x crank, with either 38t or 36t, has anyone tried to gear it with either a 36t or 42t cog (ie cross chain)? I believe a 2x has better 'cross chaining suitability' allow me to say...

If a 1x 34t wont make a 'perfect chainline' then placing at a position much closer to the 'ideal chainline' using the 104 BCD of a 2x crank will still be better than the stock 38t or 36t given that obviuosly its much smaller, hence can be placed closer to the BB. Thoughts?


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

what tyres do you use for climb and trail use?

Im thinking to use minion DHF and DHR 2.3 front and rear with tubes for start!

but from my search about minion's is too much grippy!Im afraid in the climb maybe have problem and Im thinking get the highroller for the rear...


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

I started with ardent in front and ignitor in the rear - then switched to a Schwalbe Hans Dampf in the front and Nobbi Nic in the rear - different bike! Rolled great and perfect grip!


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## Asmodeus2112 (Jan 4, 2008)

Darksoul said:


> what tyres do you use for climb and trail use?
> 
> Im thinking to use minion DHF and DHR 2.3 front and rear with tubes for start!
> 
> but from my search about minion's is too much grippy!Im afraid in the climb maybe have problem and Im thinking get the highroller for the rear...


IMO the key to this bike is tubeless large volume tires, and highly recommend you ditch the tubes asap. I run Hans Dampf front and rear. They are great in the dry, but are very slippery on wet rock. I get awesome traction on the rear when climbing as long as it's dry.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

I run tubeless 2.5" DHF and 2.3" DHR II in front and rear. I've got grip for days. Other then their weight they climb just fine. And I do a lot of climbing.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

sdwhitey said:


> This info may be out there but I couldn't really find it so I wanted to create a post to address the following question:
> 
> Will the Race Face Narrow / Wide 30 tooth chainring work with the Shimano XT M785 (2x10 version) crankset on a Yelli Screamy?
> 
> ...


So this simply means that 'any' installation of 'any' 2x crank will NOT clear the CS?


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

spyghost said:


> So this simply means that 'any' installation of 'any' 2x crank will NOT clear the CS?


An SRAM X9 crank will fit on a yelli with 2 spacers on the drive side. The trick is to flip the large ring around to offset the ring outward. I've seen a few 2x raceface set ups also work on a yelli.

We don't have a lot of huge climbs here so most guys go to a 1x after a few months. when I had my yelli I would never use my 36t rear w/ a 32t front. Just never need it. I'm SS now so it's not really an issue for me


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

BlueDragonX said:


> I run tubeless 2.5" DHF and 2.3" DHR II in front and rear. I've got grip for days. Other then their weight they climb just fine. And I do a lot of climbing.


I toyed with putting my Minions on my Yelli (having stopped using them in favour of 2.4 & 2.2 Conti MK II's on my old bike), but the DHF weight has put me off so far for regular use, the DHF 2.5 KEV 3C EXO TR is nearly a Kilo ... thats a bit too much for me for long rides, the 2.3 DHR II in the same casing is about 750g IIRC which is alright. For trail centre days they are ace, so much grip!


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

spyghost said:


> So this simply means that 'any' installation of 'any' 2x crank will NOT clear the CS?


Mines running M785 2x crankset with RaceFace 30t Narrow/Wide:









I've also had a Superstar 32t Narrow/Wide on there too which also clears with the same spacer on there, I really wouldnt fancy any more spacers on there on a 1x set-up, the chain line would be horrible!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I have my shimano slx full groupset in my room...2x10 with one shimano spacer with 24x38 chainring its full compatible thanks a lot for your responses!!Maybe in this month I wil finish my build....


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

You welcome, we're all here to help, and look forward to seeing your finished build.

I have been wondering looking at my photo, if Canfield could have designed the bar connecting the chain stay to the BB a little better, surely the area in Green could have allowed for a thicker bar to be used and would have allowed for some machining to accommodate the chain rings easier?


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Yes maybe it will better with this thought!!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Ulysses-31 said:


> Mines running *M785 2x crankset with RaceFace 30t Narrow/Wide*:
> 
> View attachment 946598
> 
> ...





Darksoul said:


> I have my shimano slx full groupset in my room...*2x10 with one shimano spacer with 24x38 chainring its full compatible* thanks a lot for your responses!!Maybe in this month I wil finish my build....


is there any magic here? does this mean that 38t big and 30t NW have the same diameter? (i can't imagine that)

both set ups use just 1pc 2.5mm spacer BUT 38t big ring and 30t NW just have enough space to clear the CL.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I dont know if it have the same diameter with 30T!if you want I can mesure for you!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Yes please


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I will post in a few hours because Im not home


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I forgot it to share my handmade mashguard!!!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I hope to help this photo ~6inches


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Thanks... Now...

- 38t shimano ring is 150mm (6") Im assuming this is accurate 
- 30t absolute black has largest diameter at 143.7mm (given by tehan)
- CMIIW, the 2x shimano big ring is at 50mm CL with 1 2.5mm spacer - can anyone confirm?

Given the numbers, this means that an absolute black 30t oval will work.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> I have my shimano slx full groupset in my room...2x10 with one shimano spacer with 24x38 chainring its full compatible thanks a lot for your responses!!Maybe in this month I wil finish my build....


Didnt you use a spindle spacer on the NDS similar to what has been descibed here?

http://forums.mtbr.com/canfield/shimano-2x10-yelli-853891.html


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

No just only shimano one spacer and its very clear tight but clear!one day of this I install all parts i have and will post clear photos!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Shimano 2x10 24x38 installed with one shimano spacer...


















My build take soul today....maybe in a few days will finished!My friend Doul make it a real bike today thanks a lot and I own many beers I think


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Nice to see the chainrings clear without any spindle spacer.

Have you tried slapping in a chain and shifting through the gears? (Chain rub on the CS 'might' be the next issue)


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I dont have the wheels yet!!in a few days I will know if it there is a problem with chain....


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

spyghost said:


> Nice to see the chainrings clear without any spindle spacer.
> 
> Have you tried slapping in a chain and shifting through the gears? (Chain rub on the CS 'might' be the next issue)


Why would the chain rub on the chainstay?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

From the looks of the picture you have 1-2mm? of space between the large ring and the chainstay. You will probably have light contact with any frame/crank flex.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

@Josh, what do you reckon is the safest but closest gap assuming flex from drops? 5ft ish perhaps?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I wouldn't say the flex is from big drops, but more from hard corners, sprinting and mashing to make it up climbs. Heavier riders might notice it more, so YMMV but I had contact between my chainring 32t single ring and frame when riding with about 2mm of space. I added another spacer and things have been fine. I would think
I never noticed it during riding, but the marks are there on my frame to prove it.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

I reckon 5mm would be safest (for the sake of a scratch free cs)


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

I spoke with canfield europe dealer and america dealer confirms my spacing its right and safe!!the frame have tight clearence for sure!

Im thinking to use chain catcher KREX 22T 26T Chain Catcher for Shimano MTB Red | eBay

if the chain catcher didnt take out a little bit the crank I will put one spacer with 0.8 or 1.5mm to have peace in my mind or the alternative race face spidle spacer DH/FR kit!!


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## morganfletcher (Jul 22, 2005)

I've been riding my Yelli Screamy so much, I've turned into a Creamy:









Morgan


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

20150129_174744 by Darksoulgsxr, on Flickr

my monster...


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## wobbem (Jul 19, 2009)

Darksoul said:


> 20150129_174744 by Darksoulgsxr, on Flickr
> 
> my monster...


I'd ditch that rear mud guard, its not going to do a damned thing, front one won't do to much either, to small for 29er wheels imo.


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

wobbem said:


> I'd ditch that rear mud guard, its not going to do a damned thing, front one won't do to much either, to small for 29er wheels imo.


I'd leave the front one on there, does an excellent job of stopping stones n shite getting in your face. Yes a touch short but 100% better than nothing!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Small frame black
Revelation Rct3 solo air 140mm
Full slx 2x10 24x38 chainrings with 11-32 cassete
Wheels flow ex ztr with novatec 4in1 hubs and sapim race spokes
Handlebar leader 750 stem sam 50mm grips from sixpack 
Seatpost dropper ks supernatural 125mm
Seat specialized phenom gel 155
Tyres maxxis minion maxterra dhf 2.3 and dhr a60 2.3 with tubeless kit from stans


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## dblspeed (Jan 31, 2006)

Darksoul said:


> Small frame black
> Revelation Rct3 solo air 140mm
> Full slx 2x10 24x38 chainrings with 11-32 cassete
> Wheels flow ex ztr with novatec 4in1 hubs and sapim race spokes
> ...


Nice! What's that light on the bars?


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Topeak little light for the street rides...


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

MuckyNutz guard channels all the crud away from the stanchions which is very good for the forks! Less work for the seals to do.









Channels all the crud away from the stanchions


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

Darksoul said:


> Small frame black
> Revelation Rct3 solo air 140mm
> Full slx 2x10 24x38 chainrings with 11-32 cassete
> Wheels flow ex ztr with novatec 4in1 hubs and sapim race spokes
> ...


Umm... what's the point of the rear mud-flap? All of that mud would be heading down at the seat-tube / seatstay cluster anyway.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

its for my seat post when it have it in down position!!


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

Well isn't that cute


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## Bunzl (Jan 5, 2012)

Does anyone know the stack height for an L and XL Yelli with either a 120mm or 140mm fork?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

JoshM said:


> I wouldn't say the flex is from big drops, but more from hard corners, sprinting and mashing to make it up climbs. Heavier riders might notice it more, so YMMV but I had contact between my chainring 32t single ring and frame when riding with about 2mm of space. I added another spacer and things have been fine. I would think
> I never noticed it during riding, but the marks are there on my frame to prove it.


Did you have any chainline issues when you added the extra spacer, e.g., the grinding dry chain sound or wearing out chain and cassettte?

I just put a 30t NRW on my Yelli, bike has Shimano slx triple crankset. The clearance is there, no contact, but it is really tight. It is too cold here to ride and test, but I am probably going to ride it first and see if it works before adding another spacer.

Just did some more google searching and found that the issue with adding another 2.5mm spacer to the Shimano cranks nd BB is not having enough thread left on the ND side for a solid connection. Some also claim possibly wearing out the bearings. Still would appreciate any feedback you have with your setup.


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

cjsb said:


> Did you have any chainline issues when you added the extra spacer, e.g., the grinding dry chain sound or wearing out chain and cassettte?
> 
> I just put a 30t NRW on my Yelli, bike has Shimano slx triple crankset. The clearance is there, no contact, but it is really tight. It is too cold here to ride and test, but I am probably going to ride it first and see if it works before adding another spacer.
> 
> Just did some more google searching and found that the issue with adding another 2.5mm spacer to the Shimano cranks nd BB is not having enough thread left on the ND side for a solid connection. Some also claim possibly wearing out the bearings. Still would appreciate any feedback you have with your setup.


Look for a thinner shimano spacer. They come in 2.5/1.2/0.8mm thickness. You can add the 2.5 and .8 to see if the adjustment is better.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

What's the largest NW ring that can fit a YS and still maintain a 50mm chainline?


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## johnD (Mar 31, 2010)

spyghost said:


> What's the largest NW ring that can fit a YS and still maintain a 50mm chainline?


I think somebody said 32 t.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

spyghost said:


> What's the largest NW ring that can fit a YS and still maintain a 50mm chainline?


I cannot imagine anything more than 32t, and even that may be a challenge. I just put a 30t on mine and clearance is there but credit card thin. To avoid contact will likely need to add more spacers, a 2.5 would be great but worried about the non drive side. With a 32t you would need at least a 2.5.

I am going to mess with mine some but the Race Face cranks with adjustable chain line and the cinch system are starting to look really promising as an upgrade.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Reason is, I'm putting in a spiderless 32t in an x9 crank. Just wanted to be sure before i pull the trigger.

Trouble with sram gxp is the adjusting the chainline outboard is impossible. Just cmiiw here.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

spyghost said:


> Reason is, I'm putting in a spiderless 32t in an x9 crank. Just wanted to be sure before i pull the trigger.
> 
> Trouble with sram gxp is the adjusting the chainline outboard is impossible. Just cmiiw here.


After posting in this thread decided to buy a Race Face crankset, got one from Jenson for $93. It si their equivalent of Zee crankset. Doesn't have Cinch but I cant spend that kind of money, but still has adjustable chainline. Will put the narrow wide that Inalready have on it and should be done. Can keep my shimano triple for "epic" like rides, should ever do one again...


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

cjsb said:


> After posting in this thread decided to buy a Race Face crankset, got one from Jenson for $93. It si their equivalent of Zee crankset. Doesn't have Cinch but I cant spend that kind of money, but still has adjustable chainline. Will put the narrow wide that Inalready have on it and should be done. Can keep my shimano triple for "epic" like rides, should ever do one again...


How many teeth are you going to use?


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

spyghost said:


> How many teeth are you going to use?


30t. I already have the 30t narrow wide, bought it earlier in 2014. Tried to put it on when I bought it but didn't have long enough bolts to use with a bash gaurd. Now I have everything and it all fits, should be easy transfer to the new cranks. I have a year and ahalf on my current Shimano BB and the bearings feel "slow" and sticky, so the new cranks that come with a new BB will meet another need (anything I can do to rationalize spending more isworthwhile now).


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

I'm not sure what happenned to this thread. It seems to have been deserted. That's a damn shame. I want to resurrect it. I am on page 56 and reading it straight through, neglecting work, family, sustenance, and sleep b/c I'm so excited for my Yelli to arrive. I am curious if anyone is running bar ends. I know this is a throw back, but I would like to run a short stem, the short CS allows good traction while climbing, and it seems that the extra inch or two you would get from bar ends might help keep the front end from wondering. Any thoughts?


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## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

They ought to go well with your hite-rite.



kalroot said:


> I'm not sure what happenned to this thread. It seems to have been deserted. That's a damn shame. I want to resurrect it. I am on page 56 and reading it straight through, neglecting work, family, sustenance, and sleep b/c I'm so excited for my Yelli to arrive. I am curious if anyone is running bar ends. I know this is a throw back, but I would like to run a short stem, the short CS allows good traction while climbing, and it seems that the extra inch or two you would get from bar ends might help keep the front end from wondering. Any thoughts?


----------



## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

For some reason, before my last post i concluded this thread was abandoned but now I see that it's still going strong. Happy to see it. I have now read the whole freaking thread. In the process, i may have lost a child or two due to neglect. Worth it though to stoke my excitement for my YS frame that will arrive tomorrow afternoon. I plan on trying my Race Face narrow wide 32 tooth in the middle position of a 3X FSA Afterburner crank. I'm hoping it will clear but it sounds like I might need spacers. Any insights on this? I promise to post pictures when it's all said and done. I hope to get it looking pretty cute.


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

Wow! I had to lookup what a hite rite is but when I did it was like an epiphany. I promptly put my dropper post for sale on ebay. GT 87 you are alright


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

kalroot said:


> For some reason, before my last post i concluded this thread was abandoned but now I see that it's still going strong. Happy to see it. I have now read the whole freaking thread. In the process, i may have lost a child or two due to neglect. Worth it though to stoke my excitement for my YS frame that will arrive tomorrow afternoon. I plan on trying my Race Face narrow wide 32 tooth in the middle position of a 3X FSA Afterburner crank. I'm hoping it will clear but it sounds like I might need spacers. Any insights on this? I promise to post pictures when it's all said and done. I hope to get it looking pretty cute.


Abandoned? This threa IS MTBR. Last week I put a 30t narrow wide on my Yelli. Slx cranks and BB with one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side. I can barely squeeze a credit card between the teeth and the chainstays. With a single 2.5mm spacer I do not see how a 32t will fit, but who knows maybe it will wi a different crankset?


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

I got my frame. It's a bit beat up but I think that's fits the nature of this beast. I tried the 32t race face narrow wide chainring and indeed it did not fit with a 2.5mm spacer - not even close. I'm going to try 30t with the 2.5 millimeter spacer.


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

You guys know if you pick up the phone or send an email - the 'bros' will sit and discuss this all with you. They are amazing in the support and great sounding boards for ideas!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Revalimage said:


> You guys know if you pick up the phone or send an email - the 'bros' will sit and discuss this all with you. They are amazing in the support and great sounding boards for ideas!


Totally agree


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## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

kalroot said:


> I got my frame. It's a bit beat up but I think that's fits the nature of this beast. I tried the 32t race face narrow wide chainring and indeed it did not fit with a 2.5mm spacer - not even close. I'm going to try 30t with the 2.5 millimeter spacer.


@kalroot. Here are my thoughts on 32t w/2.5mm spacer (won't fit) vs 32t w/5mm of spacers vs 30t w/2.5mm spacer

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/yelli-screamy-canfield-644944-110.html#post11222716


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

sdwhitey said:


> @kalroot. Here are my thoughts on 32t w/2.5mm spacer (won't fit) vs 32t w/5mm of spacers vs 30t w/2.5mm spacer
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/yelli-screamy-canfield-644944-110.html#post11222716


This is very helpful. My 30t narrow wide has less clearance than your photos, I cannot get a dime through. Ordered another crankset with more adjustable chainline.

Have you had any contact with the frame since using this setup?


----------



## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

Both 30t RaceFace and 32t Superstar Narrow/Wide fit on mine with 2.5mm spacer using M785 XT crank (double not triple).


----------



## sdwhitey (Apr 3, 2010)

cjsb said:


> Have you had any contact with the frame since using this setup?


No. I've been very happy with the 30t + XT m785 setup.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

I'm eyeing on the production of absolute black's 30t oval gxp. It has biggest ovality as 32t.

Question now, is gxp spiderless at 50mm chainline? And that will a 32t clear at 50mm chainline?


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

^^^spyghost I moved sram xo cranks onto the yelli when I built it up and tried the Wolftooth NW 32t direct mount (they are offset inboard to maintain about 50mm chain line) I already had and it was not even close to clearing. Maybe a 30 would. Maybe. Ordered the flat 30t (gxp short spindle) and it clears with room to spare, but approx 55mm chain line I believe. Shifts ok though.... I'm waiting for the absolute black short spindle oval version, which should be coming soon, just have to live with the chain line though.


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## pwu_1 (Nov 19, 2007)

montana_ben said:


> ^^^spyghost I moved sram xo cranks onto the yelli when I built it up and tried the Wolftooth NW 32t direct mount (they are offset inboard to maintain about 50mm chain line) I already had and it was not even close to clearing. Maybe a 30 would. Maybe. Ordered the flat 30t (gxp short spindle) and it clears with room to spare, but approx 55mm chain line I believe. Shifts ok though.... I'm waiting for the absolute black short spindle oval version, which should be coming soon, just have to live with the chain line though.


I have a Sram X0 crank on my yelli with the wolftooth NW 28T direct mount and that one barely fits so I doubt the 30T would even fit at 50mm chainline.

I'm also eyeing the 30T absoluteblack and will be getting that for the yelli as soon as possible. My idea is to move the spacer from the ND side on the Bottom Bracket to the D side and hope that makes enough clearance to fit the 30T Absoluteblack.
The issue with Sram Cranks is that the crank position is pretty much only dependent on the ND side so the most you can move it is by removing the spacer on the ND side to move it towards the D side.
Hm, that just gave me an idea. What if we get the non-offset ring(for the BB30 cranks) and added spacer to the ND side bottom bracket to get a chainline some where between 50-55 where the absoluteblack ring will clear. I guess the isse we'd have to worry about that is crank arm clearance with the chain stay.


----------



## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

I'm using a SRAM X1 crank with a 30t direct mount Wolftooth ring on my Yelli. I believe my frame is a 2014 if that matters. It does fit, but sits VERY close to the chainstay. I haven't had a problem in about a year of riding it that way. 

Having said that, I have a 32t WT ring on another bike that I tried on the same Yelli, and I'm not sure I'd be comfortable riding with that type of clearance. It wasn't rubbing, but with that tight a tolerance, any ring flex or movement (if that's even possible), or maybe even mud or grit sticking to the ring, may be risky. I guess you can add a spacer on the drive side, but that could affect shifting into the larger cogs especially if it's a 40t or 42t. 

Check the Canfield subforum about this topic. Ring sizes and compatibility has been discussed there a few times. 

I'll mention this again to the Canfield guys in the event they are reading this: Next batch of Yelli frames, make a minor design adjustment to the chainstay to easily accommodate larger rings. Just flatten the chainstay a bit for slightly more clearance.


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## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Nothing that a file can't fix!!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

^I know nothing about that chainring, but to me it looks like you should rotate it 90 degrees on the crank. Because there is no bash gaurd, the chain ring could be taking hits from logs/rocks in the area with the cutouts....which to me spells folded chainring. 

Just a thought...which an be dangerous. haha


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## Colin2 (Nov 26, 2014)

Would someone post the front center (b.b. center to front axle center) measurement for a Large Yelli Screamy please? I'm not too worried about fork length.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

A large is 27.75" front center with a 520 A to C.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Update on my Yelli: installed race face respond crankset with 30t narrow wide. Used two 2.5mm spacers on drive side. Clearance i acceptable, a dime width or a tiny bit more. This is my 4th BB on this frame and it was incredibly tough getting the non drive side BB cup on. The last 1/8" of threqding required real brute for e. I dont't think the cup will ever come off.

I never had problems with threading Bbs before. First one on this frame was GXP single speed, no issues on or off. Second and third were SLX ona triple crankset set up 1x10. Each of those went on/off with no extra force, just the usual last bit to torque and the initial force to loosen.

So i tried putting the last slx cup on and it wouldn't go either. Then I tried the first slx cup (kept in box) and it went on fine. 

Went back to the race face cup and it went on but it was really, really hard. Is it possible race face cup threads re not as "good" or whatever is that is used to describe threads?


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

Update on my chainring saga. The 30t race face narrow wide fit worse than the 32t b/c the 30t's built-in chainring nut (you bolt the chaingring bolt directly to the ring w/o a female chainring nut) contacted the chainstay. So, as others have done and on the recommendation of Canfiled's Sean, I used two race face spindle spacers on my FSA afterburner triple ring with the 32t chainring and it clears barely w/ about 2mm. I've got about 100mi on this set up w/o any noticed contact. 

I'm going to post a fill ride report, spec, and pics when I get it completely dialed. I want to post pics w/ my final cockpit set up in place to help people w/ sizing. I've had some trouble getting the cockpit set, I think b/c the short HT, relatively shorter ETT, and angle of the actual seat post (all compared to the frame I pulled by build kit off, a niner air 9 rdo XL) as I had some lower back pain, but I think I have that sorted, or at least close. 

I am loving it and have been getting regular PRs. More on this in my highly anticipated ride report, but it really kicks rump on tech sections (where rear squish is not mandatory). I am not missing my AIR 9 RDO at all.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone here fancy an absolute black 30t oval gxp? its largest diameter is at 32t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

*My 1XNarrow Wide Install*

Finally got around to taking some pictures.
Race Face Narrow Wide 30T
Race Face Respond Cranks 1X, already having trouble remembering, but looks like I used 2 drive side spacers.


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## Master Slater (Aug 2, 2012)

Can someone confirm for me the following:

1.) Yelli DOES NOT have stealth routing for dropper post.

2.) Nimble 9 DOES indeed have stealth routing.

Thanks!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

For the first its for sure does not have stelth routing for any of the cables just one for all the cables in the second i dont know!


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

Master Slater said:


> Can someone confirm for me the following:
> 
> 1.) Yelli DOES NOT have stealth routing for dropper post.
> 
> ...


No stealth routing for either.

There is a picture floating around of a stealth modification to a N9.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Master Slater (Aug 2, 2012)

jkidd_39 said:


> No stealth routing for either.
> 
> There is a picture floating around of a stealth modification to a N9.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ahhhhh... That was a mod I saw... I see.

Anyone owners of either frame try a similar mod?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Master Slater said:


> Ahhhhh... That was a mod I saw... I see.
> 
> Anyone owners of either frame try a similar mod?


I'm thinking of drilling my YS frame to route a stealth post. I think you should be able to drill into the headtube or seattube and make it work. Center-punch two holes a few cm apart. Drill two pilot holes, then larger holes. Cut between then with a dremel tool and file the edges until smooth. You are aiming for more of a rounded slot than a hole.

Drilling holes in perfectly good bike frames | Peter Verdone Designs


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## elroyj (Apr 3, 2011)

Decided to switch things up and try something different on the front of the Yelli. Proving to be super fun so far.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what fork is that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## elroyj (Apr 3, 2011)

It's a Salsa Makwa.


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

How about a ride report with this set-up. I flirt with similar ideas. Can you compare it to what ever (presumed) 29/suspension set up you had on it before? Thanks.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what is the widest 29er tire that will have rubbing issues in the rear end of a 2014 1x YS (135mm) ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gulljammer (Oct 15, 2010)

spyghost said:


> what is the widest 29er tire that will have rubbing issues in the rear end of a 2014 1x YS (135mm) ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can only comment on Schwalbe tires. Hans Dampf 2.35 will rub in the turns, Nobby Nic 2.35 will fit perfect.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

gulljammer said:


> I can only comment on Schwalbe tires. Hans Dampf 2.35 will rub in the turns, Nobby Nic 2.35 will fit perfect.


isn't schwalbe tires are known for not being that durable? i always ride to the trail via 9 km paved roads and these will definitely be knobby killers.

this may sound insane but is there a high volume 29er suitable for wet/muddy conditions (its rainy season here now btw), that has higher lifespan compared to schwalbe? i don't mind being slow in the pavement since i'm riding 1x anyway so speed is not my major concerned. what's important to me is relatively longer life, good grip, high volume, for wet/muddy. does this kind of tire exist anyway? if it does, post em in...


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

jkidd_39 said:


> No stealth routing for either.
> 
> There is a picture floating around of a stealth modification to a N9.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


the new YS has stealth routing


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

spyghost said:


> what is the widest 29er tire that will have rubbing issues in the rear end of a 2014 1x YS (135mm) ?


A 2.35 Maxxis DHRII fits fine as well. The new Yelli has more clearance, though.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone fitted a dhf 2.5?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

BlueDragonX said:


> *I run tubeless 2.5" DHF* and 2.3" DHR II in front and rear. I've got grip for days. Other then their weight they climb just fine. And I do a lot of climbing.


I'm assuming this is the rear wheel? What rims are these on? I'm looking at running these rubber on the rear with flow ex (rainy season here). wondering if you ever had rubbing and if dishing can solve the rubbing issue?


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

spyghost said:


> I'm assuming this is the rear wheel? What rims are these on? I'm looking at running these rubber on the rear with flow ex (rainy season here). wondering if you ever had rubbing and if dishing can solve the rubbing issue?


No, the DHF is in front and the DHRII is in the rear. They're on 35mm Derby rims. They don't rub.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

BlueDragonX said:


> No, the DHF is in front and the DHRII is in the rear. They're on 35mm Derby rims. They don't rub.


why didn't you use the dhf in the rear? doesn't it fit?


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## Thaumaturge (Feb 25, 2006)

The "F" and "R" in DHF and DHR stand for the end of the bike where Maxxis intended the tire to be used.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

Thaumaturge said:


> The "F" and "R" in DHF and DHR stand for the end of the bike where Maxxis intended the tire to be used.


This exactly. The DHR doesn't make a good front tire.


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## beer_coffee_water (Mar 1, 2011)

Quite a few folks run DHR IIs front and rear and love combo. There is an article stating the DHR II when trimmed ever so slightly is a gripper front tire than DHF. Also, if you look closely at the 2015 Yelli and the EPO the Bros are running DHF 2.5s front and rear. I think it just preference on what you want your tires to do. Not sure if a 2.5 will clear an older Yelli's stays. Either way any combo with DHF and DHR II is going to grip the trail up or down.


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## Thaumaturge (Feb 25, 2006)

beer_coffee_water said:


> Quite a few folks run DHR IIs front and rear and love combo. There is an article stating the DHR II when trimmed ever so slightly is a gripper front tire than DHF. Also, if you look closely at the 2015 Yelli and the EPO the Bros are running DHF 2.5s front and rear. I think it just preference on what you want your tires to do. Not sure if a 2.5 will clear an older Yelli's stays. Either way any combo with DHF and DHR II is going to grip the trail up or down.


Fair play - run whatever works for you. I have no experience with the DHR II yet, but nothing about the DHR makes me want to run it as a front tire. I've also heard of people running DHFs backwards as a rear tire. Never tried it myself.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

DHF, for me, is the best gripping tire, front or rear. The older DHR was crappy IMO but the newer DHR II works better for both. The DHF has good all around grip where as the DHR II has good braking and good side knobs but the transition knobs are lacking. If your the type of rider that throws it into a turn, a DHR II could be good for you. If you want good grip everywhere in between, I'd say get the DHF. FYI, my favorite all time combo is DHF (front and rear), the most grip although not the fastest rolling.


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## xgoodxlifex (May 5, 2010)

Going to be selling my medium Yelli - green. Frame or as a complete. originally bought in 2011 (3 water bottles). I have not cleaned it up for pictures yet but will put in Classified soon.


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

flymybike said:


> The DHF has good all around grip where as the DHR II has good braking and good side knobs but the transition knobs are lacking. If your the type of rider that throws it into a turn, a DHR II could be good for you.


Agreed entirely. This is why I prefer the DHRII in the rear.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

flymybike said:


> DHF, for me, is the best gripping tire, front or rear. The older DHR was crappy IMO but the newer DHR II works better for both. The DHF has good all around grip where as the DHR II has good braking and good side knobs but the transition knobs are lacking. If your the type of rider that throws it into a turn, a DHR II could be good for you. If you want good grip everywhere in between, I'd say get the DHF. FYI, my favorite all time combo is DHF (front and rear), the most grip although not the fastest rolling.


Will a 2.5 dhf clear a 2014 YS on a flow ex?


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

spyghost said:


> Will a 2.5 dhf clear a 2014 YS on a flow ex?


Yes.


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## Shmoo (Mar 9, 2008)

Just a head's up for anyone looking, I'll be selling my medium YS with Revelation fork, Charger wheels, dropper post, etc.


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## kalroot (Mar 5, 2008)

*My Yelli*

Here is mine. I'm absolutely loving it. I have a bit of a saga with the chainring/chainstay clearance w/ Style and 32T Race Face NW. The upshot is that I went with putting the ring in the outside position on the Stylo triple crankset. The chainline is off but so far no dropped chains.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Great looking Yelli. If the ring is in the outer/triple position, you may need to keep a very close eye on your chain length. I did this over a year ago with my Yelli and burned through a chain and a cassette. If you keep a close on it you can at least get a new chain before you need a new cassette, too. When I put the ring back in the middle position (slx triplle) the grinding type sensation and sound disappeared, everything felt smoother.

Of course if you are just using the smaller cogs then it won't be an issue, but I need to use bigger half of the cassette.


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## tualmbr (Jul 18, 2015)

Why has this thread been going for 5 years, and why are there so many Canfield fanboys?

My experience with canfield :
Many years ago - 2 Real guys trying to do real good.
Today - Vin will eventually ruin the company with his elitist bs.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

tualmbr said:


> Why has this thread been going for 5 years, and why are there so many Canfield fanboys?
> 
> My experience with canfield :
> Many years ago - 2 Real guys trying to do real good.
> Today - Vin will eventually ruin the company with his elitist bs.


You are just another troll if you don't share the exact reasons you chose to bash Canfield.


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## tualmbr (Jul 18, 2015)

jonshonda said:


> You are just another troll if you don't share the exact reasons you chose to bash Canfield.


By this logic, you are a troll or fanboy if you don't share all of your interactions with Vin which would prove that canfield is still the wonderful, selfless, non-greedy, non-corporate, pro-biker company that it was years ago.


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## tualmbr (Jul 18, 2015)

MostChillin said:


> I'm certain jonshonda can stand-up for himself but my question to you is "why"? Why waste your time?
> 
> Clearly you don't like Canfield. That's cool. I don't like Transition and have said so in these forums but clearly shared my reasons. I did so for the benefit of others. I shared facts and then folks can make a call one way or another. That's how things work.
> 
> ...


Im not here to do dirty laundry, I am not on a witch hunt. But it's ironic that 3 of you now say canfield is great and give nothing to support it - while demanding if anyone says something poorly about canfield they must support it.

I still stand behind the brothers - I think they were a wonderful company years ago.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

tualmbr - I'd be interested to know what's your concern about Canfield company or Vin personally. 
I've got two of their frames and I'm happy with them, I've got a Riot on preorder too, but I never had to deal particularly with the Bros or Vin, apart some sizing advice, 'cause I bought used or via their European dealer.
If you care to share what went wrong between you and Canfield's I'll read with interest, otherwise I can't see what's your point


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## YRG (Feb 26, 2012)

tualmbr said:


> Im not here to do dirty laundry, I am not on a witch hunt. But it's ironic that 3 of you now say canfield is great and give nothing to support it - while demanding if anyone says something poorly about canfield they must support it.
> 
> I still stand behind the brothers - I think they were a wonderful company years ago.


Yep, with you on the irony. Perhaps the feeling is that the greatness of Canfield is well known here and once every five or ten years someone is unhappy and everyone's curiosity is peeked. I'm not really interested. The CS at Canfield is the best, but not everyone can be happy.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

N


tualmbr said:


> Why has this thread been going for 5 years, and why are there so many Canfield fanboys?
> 
> My experience with canfield :
> Many years ago - 2 Real guys trying to do real good.
> Today - Vin will eventually ruin the company with his elitist bs.


I was surprised to see your post, but you asked questions that you pretty much answered and it makes your issue with Canfield seem either isolated or petty.

The reason the thread has been going on for so long is because the bikes are great and people have great experiences dealing with Canfield. It can't go on that long if they are spwewing elitist bs, whatever that is...or it is highly unlikely. But it is still retail and you can't please everyone

My Yelli is the best fittig bike I have evr owned, eevrything was advertised, when I asked questions, Canfield answered them quickly were helpful. And given the quality of the frame, it is a good deal price wise. Oh yeah, I love external threaded BBs, too. Oh yeah, best head badge ever...oh yeah, next bike is likely to be a Riot oh yeah...


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Im on the other side of the globe. My frame came to me in tact. Good product good packaging good cs. Great bikes what else will a customer want?

Sent from my 4013K using Tapatalk


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

tualmbr said:


> By this logic, you are a troll or fanboy if you don't share all of your interactions with Vin which would prove that canfield is still the wonderful, selfless, non-greedy, non-corporate, pro-biker company that it was years ago.


I would be happy to share my experiences w/ Canfield. After a few phone calls with Canfield confirming sizing questions for a Yelli, I purchased a frame. Not too long after I had an issue with the frame, which Canfield quickly replied with multiple options for fixing the issue. Because they didn't have a Yelli in stock in my size, they ended up giving me a killer price on an N9, which was another really awesome bike.

Phone calls were always answered by a human, and voice mails were returned in very short order. They even interacted with me on mtbr via pm messages. It is hard to describe dealing with a company where there is easy access to the people who design and engineered the bike.

So now that you have called me out and I replied w/ my experience, its time for you to man up and share yours.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

looks like im going to need a bb chainguide that has upper protection. got these nasty scars from drops and hops due to chain slapping. tbh i didn't see that coming...



anyone here used a bb mounted guide for pre 2015 ys with 34t ring?

though, i think for future-proofing i'd be better off using a bb to iscg-05 adapter. just thought i could play around with spacing with iscg-05 compared to bb mount


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

spyghost said:


> anyone here used a bb mounted guide for pre 2015 ys with 34t ring?
> 
> though, i think for future-proofing i'd be better off using a bb to iscg-05 adapter. just thought i could play around with spacing with iscg-05 compared to bb mount


I do, but I've a 32t ring in the middle mount of a triple crankset, while i see your 34t is on the outer position of a double crank. My setup works perfectly but you may be right about playing with spacing, as your chainline is shifted out a few mm


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

You getting chain suck? Or what is that from?

Clutch RD?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> You getting chain suck? Or what is that from?
> 
> Clutch RD?


Nope, not chainsuck. It could be that my RD is not equipped with a clutch - an oldie shimano 8speed.

So, when I drop or hop, once the wheels hit the ground, the chain tends to go further down and hit the still exposed area of the chainstay.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

spyghost said:


> Nope, not chainsuck. It could be that my RD is not equipped with a clutch - an oldie shimano 8speed.


:yikes:

If ur gonna run 1x, the least you could do is use a clutch type RD. Time to stop living in the past my friend.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> :yikes:
> 
> If ur gonna run 1x, the least you could do is use a clutch type RD. Time to stop living in the past my friend.


yea i know. i'm still waiting for the 11spd 11-42 cassette to be available. all i see around here are 11-40. though its enough for me, i'd rather have a sort if bail out 42 just in case.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

What's the largest rear rotor for a pre-2015 YS?

not meaning to use the largest, am curious...

I might go 180 or 203/200 if the later will clear


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## shugarbear (Aug 28, 2012)

spyghost said:


> yea i know. i'm still waiting for the 11spd 11-42 cassette to be available. all i see around here are 11-40. though its enough for me, i'd rather have a sort if bail out 42 just in case.


you are worried about a bail out gear when you have been running 8 speed?!?!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

shugarbear said:


> you are worried about a bail out gear when you have been running 8 speed?!?!


ironically yes
- for lazy weekend rides
- crazy uphell

if it's just the small'sh man made bike parks, yes an 8 speed is more than enough, but there are cases in the mountains (natural) that the few last ranges may be needed.

don't really care of the additional weight so to speak (just grams c'mon). just the fact that its there when needed is fine with me.

actually one shop has it already. just need to fix my damn schedule to get there.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

what sort of water bottle were you able to put in a YS? I can't find anything that will fit...

yes this will end up, use a hydration pack, but then sometimes i don't want a backpack or a fanny pack and a water bottle will do...


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## BlueDragonX (May 10, 2013)

spyghost said:


> what sort of water bottle were you able to put in a YS? I can't find anything that will fit...


The Specialized Z cage worked great for me. I was using the regular sized Camelback Podium Chill bottle with it. It fits in there perfectly.

The Podium Big Chill is too tall.


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

I ran a Lezyne Power Cage holder with a pump and a full 24oz bottle inside the triangle and another shorter one on bottom of the down tube.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

right, no other option but a side loader cage then...

@revalimage, is that a 24oz big chill inside the triangle?


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

Yep - a bigin' inside - camelbak 24 oz is my favorite, tight with cables. 2012 Medium frame, straight load cage.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Revalimage said:


> Yep - a bigin' inside - camelbak 24 oz is my favorite, tight with cables. 2012 Medium frame, straight load cage.


what??? straight load? med 2014 user here as well, i couldn't fit mine with a straight load without bending the cage to near breaking point. what cage you used inside the triangle?


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

Wrong cage - that's on my Single Speed, here is the cages I had. Wasn't on the downtube, that must have been the Bandit - as I remember a shorty in the upright, 24 on the downtube. Top of the bottle rubbed the cables.

Dang I miss this frame...looking for another...


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

badgermtb said:


> Can anyone heere speak to the 34x19 "magic gear" possibility for the Canfield Yelli Screamy?
> 
> I know that 32x21 works. Too light. I thought I had read that 34x19 works, too. Looking for some confirmation.
> 
> Thanks!


Quoting this 3 year old post for the record (and in case I need to find it again). Magic ratio 34 19 is working for me on a Mk 1 Yelli with a new chain and no tensioner.

In terms of effort that's around 0.8% harder than 32 18

I couldn't find a ratio with a 32 that worked without more chainslop than my tensioner could handle. I read 32 21 works but that's too spinny for me.

I find the Yelli makes a fun singlespeed.

I intend to try an elliptical ring too, may need a little gentle filing of the chainstay bridge.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

ghetto said:


> Quoting this 3 year old post for the record (and in case I need to find it again). Magic ratio 34 19 is working for me on a Mk 1 Yelli with a new chain and no tensioner.
> 
> In terms of effort that's around 0.8% harder than 32 18
> 
> ...


no need to file anything. if you use shimano 104bcd cranks, just use 1mm spindle spacer. ab 32t oval will clear. that's my setup


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## ghetto (Apr 11, 2013)

spyghost said:


> no need to file anything. if you use shimano 104bcd cranks, just use 1mm spindle spacer. ab 32t oval will clear. that's my setup


cool thx. yes those are the parts I have. you mean an 1mm spacer at the BB?

are you SSing?


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

no, between crank and bb. i'm geared


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone here ever tried running YS on a 4x race? i know this is a good and sturdy frame, but just wanted to know of any experiences on using it for this purpose


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

It's been put upside down.




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1061217263911938


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

anyone has an idea what the green lining inside the seat tube is for? its sort of a painted band maybe an inch or so from the end of the seat tube.


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## flymybike (Jan 6, 2004)

It's most likely a mask for painting. They put a sleeve inside the seat tube, could have slid inside and got missed, you should be able to just grab it and pull it out.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

flymybike said:


> It's most likely a mask for painting. They put a sleeve inside the seat tube, could have slid inside and got missed, you should be able to just grab it and pull it out.


no, its like painted inside


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

wonder if the specialized swat will fit a YS?

seat tube is definitely a no though, no mounting holes


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

The SWAT box won't work - it requires a 3rd bottle cage bolt to secure the case. You could get a SWAT-compatible cage and the multitool though. Also the chainbreaker top cap.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

coleam said:


> The SWAT box won't work - it requires a 3rd bottle cage bolt to secure the case. You could get a SWAT-compatible cage and the multitool though. Also the chainbreaker top cap.


didn't realize it has a 3rd bolt to the down tube...

perhaps this would get away with it?










anyway, if it wont work, no probs. just looking for options without having to carry a pack


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## coleam (Aug 8, 2009)

That might work if you've got the space on the downtube. TBH, it doesn't carry much though. One tube, one CO2 canister, tire lever, and an inflator. You can cram a tubeless repair kit in as well if it's one of the smaller ones. No room for a multitool, and I wouldn't go out with only CO2 for inflation duties unless I was racing. FWIW, my favorite packless setup is an elastic tool roll under the seat. Unless tire clearance is really, really tight, you can still run it with a dropper, and it's got a bit more room than the SWAT box since it stretches. You can fit a tube, tire lever, CO2 (or a small pump), tubeless repair kit, and multitool. Don't have a link, unfortunately - a friend of a friend makes them himself.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

not much indeed. i always have a pair of tubes and co2 even if i run tubeless. in spite of that, i also got a mini pump, patch kit and the multitool of course. plus a few stuff like phone, wallet, and a few snacks. not trying to fit all in, but yea, perhaps id stick to my pack then. i really dont like the feel of something in the pocket either behind the jersey or the baggies specially off road


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

has there been a tight uphill switchback that you were able to climb easily with a short travel steep HA XC 29er but unable to with a YS with 140 fork?


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

Don't ride steep HA bikes - but the 135mm on my Yelli was perfect.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

Hi riders!!!Check my videos and what it can do the yelli screamy frame in rocky trails in Greece!


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

HVskier said:


> went for a ride on a local trail that I don't ride too much over the weekend...Riding it on the yelli was a completely different experience. It has a lot of steep ravine crossing where you drop in and climb back out, often with a super tight turn mixed in somewhere. I feel it highlighted every strength of the bike. Great handling on the way down, able to negotiate nearly any turn and then the massive traction on the way back out. Love this bike.


Sprague Brook? Or a Holiday Valley/Ellicottville trail? Or maybe Hunter's?


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## HVskier (Jun 20, 2004)

Bringing me back...I Think I was referring to Letchworth

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

eurospek said:


> How much are you guys spending on your Yelli builds?
> 
> I'm trying as close as possible to replicate my Transition TransAm in terms of components, especially choosing a similar quality wheelset (Hope Pro 2 Evos on 29er Stan's Flows, right now on Hope Pro 2 and Mavic EX721) and the the Fox 34 Talas/Float (currently running a Fox 36 Float), so I'm not giving up on any of the stiffness and burliness of my current AM build, and a quick spreadsheet calculation shows over $3,000, not including the small stuff like grips and seat clamps for example. :nono:
> 
> I could simply sell my current frame, forks and wheelset, and swap everything over, but I'm still looking at over $1500+ or so for the Yelli frame, new forks, wheelset, and miscellenous stuff that won't swap over and will have to get new. :madman:


I know I'm 4 years late to the party, but, in case anyone cares or is in a similar boat, I'll be building a Yelli in the coming months and will be keeping track of each component, source, price, etc. Due to finances, this is going to be a very budget build. I got the frame for $275, w/ Cane Creek 40 headset and a seat post clamp. I'm aiming for a reasonably spec'd build for $1500 or so, between Pinkbike, CL, ebay, online stores, and LBS sales. I figure about 50/50 new/used parts.

P.S. - I'm "only" on page 40 of this 119 page thread, so apologies if anything similar has already been commented on/posted in here.


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

cjsb said:


> On the verge of ordering a YS, but need to use and existing fork to keep the cost down. Does anyone know minimum steerer tube length for the frame?
> 
> The fork I have is an F29 32 series, 100mm. Not sure if I got an accurate measurement of the steerer tube because the bottom part of the headset came off with the fork and seems stuck on it. But it seems to be 7.25-7.5" in length. The frame that I currently have the fork on is 4" HT (4.5" including combined upper and lower headset height), 1.5" of spacers and another 2" on the stem height.
> 
> The YS is 110mm HT for a medium, so I am thinking this should work. My biggest concern is with headset height as my current frame the lower headset seems like it goes right in to the frame and the top part has a very low profile. Can you use low profile (not sure if that's the right description?) headsets with the YS? This will be the first time I build a bike on my own so I am trying to make sure I don't over look an important detail.


Ok, I'm only up to page 60 of this thread, got to this post via a search looking for steerer tube length info. I'm looking at a used RockShox Revelation w/ the tube cut to 6.75". With the 110mm head tube on my medium frame, and the Cane Creek 40 headset (8mm top stack height, 12mm bottom height), I figure that leaves about 1.63" of stem with this fork. Is that enough?

Sorry about the newbie question, I will also search the forums for this sort of answer, but thought I'd ask the people with Yelli's as well. Thanks.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

YS2014 here:
- cc40
- easton havoc stem occupied 40mm from steerer
- 5 mm spacer on top of headset
- 15mm on top of stem

steerer is cut to 7.5"


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## 410sprint (Oct 19, 2012)

rwrusso said:


> Ok, I'm only up to page 60 of this thread, got to this post via a search looking for steerer tube length info. I'm looking at a used RockShox Revelation w/ the tube cut to 6.75". With the 110mm head tube on my medium frame, and the Cane Creek 40 headset (8mm top stack height, 12mm bottom height), I figure that leaves about 1.63" of stem with this fork. Is that enough?
> 
> Sorry about the newbie question, I will also search the forums for this sort of answer, but thought I'd ask the people with Yelli's as well. Thanks.


Its going to be VERY close...

My XL Yelli has a 15mm longer head tube than your Med frame. Using a Thompson stem with no spacers, my steer tube is 7.5".

I think it will come down to the stack height of the stem you use.


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

I know...crappy phone pic, not in its natural habitat. Tomorrow will be the first ride.

This was a fairly budget build. I splurged on wheels. Here's the breakdown:

2012 frame, Medium (used)
WTB Asym i29 rims, I9 Torch Classic hubs (new)
WTB 27.5 Breakout 2.5 tires (used)
DT Swiss RWS 10x135 (new)
2013 RockShox Revelation RCT3 29 140mm Dual Position Air, 20mm thru-axle (used)
Cane Creek 40 headset (used, new crown race)
Race Face Ride 1x crankset, 32T n/w, X-type Race XC BB (new)
Race Face Chester pedals (new (& green!), waiting for them...just cheap flats on now)
Shimano HG-50 11-36 10 speed cassette (new)
Shimano XT RD-M786 10 speed rear derailleur (new)
Shimano HG-54 chain (new)
Shimano Zee M640 rear shifter (new)
Shimano Deore M615 brakes, 180 front, 160 rear (new)
Race Face Ride 60mm stem (new - to be installed, cheap temp stem on now)
Intense Recon 740 bars, 18mm rise (new)
Race Face Sniper grips (new)
Niner alloy seat post (new)
WTB Speed Comp saddle (new)
Shimano shift cable housing

For anyone curious, the retail price for everything new would be $3486. I paid $1866, including some shipping and paypal fees. A big part of the cost was the wheelset, my one splurge.

Note: homemade stand using a 3/4" pipe clamp and a section of pipe clamped in the vise. Gets the job done for about $20.

This was my first build, spent a few bucks on a BB tool, lock ring tool, grease, Stan's sealant. Overall not too bad I'd say. I made the mistake of going for a deal on a used fork, not thinking the 20mm axle would make matching a used or cheaper set of 29er wheels difficult. The "old" 10x135 rear also factored in to that. I got the wheels with 15mm front hub caps and 12x142 rear hub caps for future use.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

I finally upgraded the fork on my 2012 Yelli. went from a 100mm F29 striaght steerer tube and qr, to a 120mm Pike 15m thru, tapered. wow! Had I done this 3 years ago I don't think I would have bought my Heckler. with a worthy fork, the Yelli is truly an amazing ride.









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Christopher Carter (Nov 10, 2015)

Nvm


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

cjsb said:


> I finally upgraded the fork on my 2012 Yelli. went from a 100mm F29 striaght steerer tube and qr, to a 120mm Pike 15m thru, tapered. wow! Had I done this 3 years ago I don't think I would have bought my Heckler. with a worthy fork, the Yelli is truly an amazing ride.
> 
> View attachment 1089151
> 
> ...


you should try a 140 when you get the chance... it sounds ironic but i find the 140 easier to climb.


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## Revalimage (Jul 26, 2009)

YES!^^^ I was running a 135 White Bros Fluid with a 20mmTA. That bike, and that fork are the only pieces of my bike history I TRULY miss. (Fork is bombing through Moscow with a friend and my old Yelli can be seem ripping around Mt. Olympus in Greece.) Looking to repeat that build.


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

My 2011 now rockin' new 27.5 wheels and a new fork.

Hope Pro 4 hubs with the new Stans Flow MK3 rims and 160mm Manitou Mattoc 27.5 fork. Tires are Nobby Nic in back, Hans Dampf in front - tubeless. Both 27.5x2.35


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## vierzwanzig (Feb 9, 2011)

Hand down, the yelli is the best hardtail I have ever owned.














You will probably want to mute the music, but I slapped this video together of our local trail.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

spyghost said:


> you should try a 140 when you get the chance... it sounds ironic but i find the 140 easier to climb.


i thought seriously about a 130 -140, but for me, and maybe it is my poor technique, i found the front end wandered too much on climbs with a 100 mm form and 60mm stem with higher rise. i thought if I slacked the HA with 130-140 I might get that same wandering. I also wanted enough distinction between this bike and my Heckler (150), so I thought 120 might strike the right balance.n so far loving it, wish I had doe it 2 years ago.

Sent with Tapatalk


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## 410sprint (Oct 19, 2012)

cjsb said:


> i thought seriously about a 130 -140, but for me, and maybe it is my poor technique, i found the front end wandered too much on climbs with a 100 mm form and 60mm stem with higher rise. i thought if I slacked the HA with 130-140 I might get that same wandering. I also wanted enough distinction between this bike and my Heckler (150), so I thought 120 might strike the right balance.n so far loving it, wish I had doe it 2 years ago.
> 
> Sent with Tapatalk


What offsets did you have with the 100mm and 120mm forks?

The Yelli seems to be very sensitive to fork offset. Canfield recommends a 51mm offset. I ran a 51mm offset 120mm fork and found the wandering to be too much. My sense was that if I had the same fork offset with a longer fork the bike might have handled better.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

410sprint said:


> What offsets did you have with the 100mm and 120mm forks?
> 
> The Yelli seems to be very sensitive to fork offset. Canfield recommends a 51mm offset. I ran a 51mm offset 120mm fork and found the wandering to be too much. My sense was that if I had the same fork offset with a longer fork the bike might have handled better.


I came from a 120 41 fork and it worked, nothing spectacular. When I switched to a 140 51 pike, the bike felt different... waaay lot better


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

cjsb said:


> i thought seriously about a 130 -140, but for me, and maybe it is my poor technique, i found the front end wandered too much on climbs with a 100 mm form and 60mm stem with higher rise. i thought if I slacked the HA with 130-140 I might get that same wandering. I also wanted enough distinction between this bike and my Heckler (150), so I thought 120 might strike the right balance.n so far loving it, wish I had doe it 2 years ago.
> 
> Sent with Tapatalk


I thought similarly when I came from 120/41 fork - that I might end up lifting the front end on climbs. That's with a stem/bar of 60mm/720mm 20mm rise and spacer of 20mm.

Now my setup is 140/51 fork and stem/bar of 40mm/750mm 20mm rise and spacer of 25mm. It tracks well and corners a lot better. Ironically it climbs better. TBH, I think I need a higher bar, ie 30mm to add a bit of rear end weight instead of pointing my butt further back, also much easier to do lifts... need to find a buddy with this bar


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Taken few months back after a local event. BTW, this is a med 2014 and I stand 5'9"


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

410sprint said:


> What offsets did you have with the 100mm and 120mm forks?
> 
> The Yelli seems to be very sensitive to fork offset. Canfield recommends a 51mm offset. I ran a 51mm offset 120mm fork and found the wandering to be too much. My sense was that if I had the same fork offset with a longer fork the bike might have handled better.


I have 51mm offset on both forks.

Sent with Tapatalk


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## Christopher Carter (Nov 10, 2015)

2015 Medium Yelli in Black Ano excellent condition in the classifieds section. 500obo Will trade for a Pike 140mm 29er fork


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

rwrusso said:


> Ok, I'm only up to page 60 of this thread, got to this post via a search looking for steerer tube length info. I'm looking at a used RockShox Revelation w/ the tube cut to 6.75". With the 110mm head tube on my medium frame, and the Cane Creek 40 headset (8mm top stack height, 12mm bottom height), I figure that leaves about 1.63" of stem with this fork. Is that enough?
> 
> Sorry about the newbie question, I will also search the forums for this sort of answer, but thought I'd ask the people with Yelli's as well. Thanks.


i would not go that short, not much adjustment for you. i had 7 1/4 on my Yelli with a 40 series. losing a half inch off that would work for sure but I have to love that height. on my new fork I cut it at 8" and run spacers
on top.

Sent with Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i didn't measure how much sterer in have left but i left a bit less than 70mm above the cc40 top cap. that's 30mm spacer and 40mm stem.

according to RS instructions max spacer between stem and top cap is 30mm. may be true for other forks...


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

cjsb said:


> i would not go that short, not much adjustment for you. i had 7 1/4 on my Yelli with a 40 series. losing a half inch off that would work for sure but I have to love that height. on my new fork I cut it at 8" and run spacers
> on top.
> 
> Sent with Tapatalk


It worked out fine. I'm comfortable with the stem right down low, just a small spacer, stem, and top cap. Sorry about the crappy phone pic.









Sent from my SPH-L520 using Tapatalk


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

410sprint said:


> What offsets did you have with the 100mm and 120mm forks?
> 
> The Yelli seems to be very sensitive to fork offset. Canfield recommends a 51mm offset. I ran a 51mm offset 120mm fork and found the wandering to be too much. My sense was that if I had the same fork offset with a longer fork the bike might have handled better.


That's what I thought - have now tried 46 and 51 each in 120 and 140 length. The 46 o/s at 120 is my favourite, too sluggish at 140. The 51 o/s was best at 140, but I find the seat tube too slack with fork at 140. 
Pike is big improvement over revelation too.


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## 410sprint (Oct 19, 2012)

arclarke said:


> That's what I thought - have now tried 46 and 51 each in 120 and 140 length. The 46 o/s at 120 is my favourite, too sluggish at 140. The 51 o/s was best at 140, but I find the seat tube too slack with fork at 140.
> Pike is big improvement over revelation too.


:thumbsup:

Canfield could send us free stuff for being test riders.

I have a 46mm and a 51mm CSU for my 120mm Revelation. In swapping between these offsets on my Yelli, I found that the 46mm is way better for the 120mm than the 51mm.

So based on our experiences, I think its safe to say- Under 120mm, go with 46mm offset. Over 120mm go with 51mm offset.


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## slsl123 (Sep 15, 2004)

*Honzo ST vs. Yelli?*

I've been on a 2011 Large YS for 5 years. It's been a great bike for me but I've come to realize it's just a bit too small. I'd like to pick up an XL but they're sold out. I have a chance to pick up a 2016 Honzo ST XL that I think might fit me a bit better. I haven't ridden one though and know the frame is a pig at 7ish pounds. Anyone owned or spent a good amount of time on a steel Honzo that could compare it to the YS? Don't want to give up that oversize BMX playfulness that I get from the YS. Hoping the Honzo fits the bill. I guess worst case I could just part it out next spring when the new XL Yellis are in!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

hi to all I want to change my gearing in 1x10 now have 2x10 slx crank with 24x38 rings and 11-32 cassette back with medium shadow slx rear derailleur!
I thinking to change in oval 32t absolute ring on the front and 11-42 cassette sunrace back its compatible with my rear derailleur and my crank its compatible with oval rings?
I have to change the rear derailleur or not whats your thoughts?
thanks love and kisses from Greece!


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## arclarke (Jun 9, 2013)

Darksoul said:


> hi to all I want to change my gearing in 1x10 now have 2x10 slx crank with 24x38 rings and 11-32 cassette back with medium shadow slx rear derailleur!
> I thinking to change in oval 32t absolute ring on the front and 11-42 cassette sunrace back its compatible with my rear derailleur and my crank its compatible with oval rings?
> I have to change the rear derailleur or not whats your thoughts?
> thanks love and kisses from Greece!


I don't think the rear derailleur will stretch to 42. I fitted a one-up RAD cage for 1x10 but these are only for shadow+ (clutch mech) - works fine but not for you.
I understand you're better off with an 11 speed derailleur as they have the cage length for 11-42, even if the shifting is very slightly different they still work. Then my thoughts are: you need a new derailleur, cassette, and chain to go with - why not buy a full 11-speed set? Not for the 11th gear, but because it all works with 11-42 from the start.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

arclarke said:


> I don't think the rear derailleur will stretch to 42. I fitted a one-up RAD cage for 1x10 but these are only for shadow+ (clutch mech) - works fine but not for you.
> I understand you're better off with an 11 speed derailleur as they have the cage length for 11-42, even if the shifting is very slightly different they still work. Then my thoughts are: you need a new derailleur, cassette, and chain to go with - why not buy a full 11-speed set? Not for the 11th gear, but because it all works with 11-42 from the start.


thanks a lot for quick response its the best way to sale this gearing and buy 11x set thanks a lot!


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Darksoul said:


> hi to all I want to change my gearing in 1x10 now have 2x10 slx crank with 24x38 rings and 11-32 cassette back with medium shadow slx rear derailleur!
> I thinking to change in oval 32t absolute ring on the front and 11-42 cassette sunrace back its compatible with my rear derailleur and my crank its compatible with oval rings?
> I have to change the rear derailleur or not whats your thoughts?
> thanks love and kisses from Greece!


I would also be concerned that a 38t may make contact with chain stay.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

am using 32t ab oval in with m8000 crank. i had to use 0.5mm spindle spacer so it will not hit the chainstay.



pic above shows clearance of the largest portion of the oval



the scratches on the CS were caused by pre clutch RD's in 1x setup. The tiny ones were caused by experimenting with spacers.

before i had the preivous xt crank and i had to use 1mm (2 x 0.5mm) spacers with 32t ab oval.

https://wheelsmfg.com/crank-spindle-spacers.html


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

cjsb said:


> I would also be concerned that a 38t may make contact with chain stay.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had it 2 years and works fine with 38 in the large sprocket!


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

spyghost said:


> am using 32t ab oval in with m8000 crank. i had to use 0.5mm spindle spacer so it will not hit the chainstay.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If i understand right have to install 2x0.5 spacers with my slx crank and oval 32t ring?
because your previous crank you have its the same with my slx!
one question your previous crank was 2x or 3x crank?
thanks a lot for the help!!!


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> If i understand right have to install 2x0.5 spacers with my slx crank and oval 32t ring?
> because your previous crank you have its the same with my slx!
> one question your previous crank was 2x or 3x crank?
> thanks a lot for the help!!!


my previous crank was 2x and yes i installed 2x0.5mm spindle spacers to clear the 32t ab oval. it's in the new m8000 crank that i only used 1x0.5mm spindle spacer. thing is regardless of your crank brand, always aim for the least number of spacers allowable.


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

spyghost said:


> my previous crank was 2x and yes i installed 2x0.5mm spindle spacers to clear the 32t ab oval. it's in the new m8000 crank that i only used 1x0.5mm spindle spacer. thing is regardless of your crank brand, always aim for the least number of spacers allowable.


thanks a lot again!!!!


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

I noticed the Yelli Screamy is missing from the main CB website. New upgraded models coming out later? Trying to sell the remaining 2016 models first? Any ideas?


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

ooh, nice catch.
I should have mine built up within the next couple weeks.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Why no more YS in the main page? Only on the webstore? Is it going to be gone soon?


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

Updated version on the way? 

Sent from my R2 unit


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Krigloch said:


> Updated version on the way?
> 
> Sent from my R2 unit


i hope so, boost is what i have in mind as an update


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

hacking some scrap 1/2 x 1/4 aluminum bar to allow some large'sh water bottle to fit


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## Ulysses-31 (Sep 2, 2013)

spyghost said:


> i hope so, boost is what i have in mind as an update


Should fix the nasty chain line in low gear?

Has anyone run a Gen1 Yelli with 3" 650b+?


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

spyghost said:


> i hope so, boost is what i have in mind as an update


I emailed Canfield and asked them specifically if the 2017 frame would be boost...no reply from the brothers. Hmm


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

You have to wonder if the Yelli is no more. Not on the site and only in the webstore as a clearance it.


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

maybe they'll focus efforts on fs rigs? damn i love hardtails esp YS - would never replace my 2014 with any other HT 29er.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

spyghost said:


> maybe they'll focus efforts on fs rigs? damn i love hardtails esp YS - would never replace my 2014 with any other HT 29er.


Well there's the overlap with the EPO- who knows if the Yellis numbers went down after the introduction of the EPO


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

Finally got my Yelli trail worthy!
Only took me 11 months and some change. 
Still need more stuff. (saddle, cranks, rear wheel, tires, rear brake and rotor, dropper)
Super quick ride yesterday, trails were garbage. Love the nimbleness and how easy it is to get the front end up. 
Can't wait to really get it out there


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

According to an email I received from Canfield today, the Yelli Screamy is no more. 😞😞😞 Get one now if you want one.


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## 410sprint (Oct 19, 2012)

kwapik said:


> According to an email I received from Canfield today, the Yelli Screamy is no more. 😞😞😞 Get one now if you want one.


Yup. Hurry- They lowered the price to $499 on the remaining frames.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

410sprint said:


> Yup. Hurry- They lowered the price to $499 on the remaining frames.


They've been that price for a while- posted that a week ago.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

Goodnight sweet princess. You made me your *****.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Swapped all my parts over to a medium 2016 YS frame yesterday. 
Testing commences when I get off work in the a.m.:thumbsup:








Already know a new fork and front wheel will be incoming at some point, but between a Cane Creek adapter race and a seatpost shim, l get to ride it *now* with my existing Reba(converted to 120mm) and 27.2mm KS Lev.
A burlier fork and front tire will probably have it ~26, but it's 25.3# as-is.


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

@OwenM Nice!

Sent from my R2 unit


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Thanks! I am amazed by how capable this bike is compared to the 2012 Trek Cobia I've been riding. It's like it was custom made for me. 
Worked all night, didn't get much sleep yesterday and coming off a pretty vicious flu bug-31.6 trail miles, including a DH course, plus playing at a pump track. 
Thing feels like it's self-propelled when standing to pedal; awesome power transfer. I frequently found myself in one higher gear than normal. The traction while standing and mashing to climb was a big surprise, and it's like it goes where I think it, with very little steering input. Cleared a bunch of stuff I'd end up walking my old bike over, cornered like I never imagined myself doing, and didn't feel beat up at all, either. 
I was prepared to find something to nitpick or be disappointed in, but cannot imagine being one bit happier with a freaking bicycle.

It got prettied up a little, too


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## loki0278 (Oct 30, 2012)

Medium YS arrived Thursday! DVO Diamond due in Tuesday! I'm starting my first build with this frame. I normally ride a Niner WFO9 and wanted to give a SS hard tail a whirl for fun. 

Any advice,tips. Would be appreciated


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## Krigloch (Aug 9, 2011)

Got in a proper ride on my Yelli today. Holy **** it rips! 
Such a fun bike
added a WTB Volt Pro saddle and a Hope Pro4/Easton Arc 30 to the front


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

The new SC chameleon looks like a pretty compelling option for people that want something like a yelli. Good rear end length, tons of tire space, and they gave it the longer reach that the EPO has. They say it's designed for a 120 fork but I don't see any reason why a 140 won't be good too.


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## slowride454 (Jan 11, 2014)

spam

Canfield Brothers Yelli Screamy - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## jpo1 (Jul 6, 2012)

Anyone have a MD Yelli frame in good condition and want to give me a rockin deal?? Prefer newest generation but open to previous years. Are most Yelli's anodized?


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

jpo1 said:


> Anyone have a MD Yelli frame in good condition and want to give me a rockin deal?? Prefer newest generation but open to previous years. Are most Yelli's anodized?


I have one small 2012 year its the 2nd version if you want it send me pm!
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2390909/


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## jpo1 (Jul 6, 2012)

Darksoul said:


> I have one small 2012 year its the 2nd version if you want it send me pm!
> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2390909/


I appreciate the reply and offer Philip, but a Medium would be best as I was even considering sizing up before talking to Canfield. Cheers


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## Darksoul (Apr 27, 2014)

jpo1 said:


> I appreciate the reply and offer Philip, but a Medium would be best as I was even considering sizing up before talking to Canfield. Cheers


Ι hope to find one because the bike is vey good I had it for 2 years and works very well!


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## jpo1 (Jul 6, 2012)

jpo1 said:


> Anyone have a MD Yelli frame in good condition and want to give me a rockin deal?? Prefer newest generation but open to previous years. Are most Yelli's anodized?


Still looking for a frame but confident I can ride a MD or LG, but it must be the newest version. Get at me. Cheers!


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Got a 2016 Medium frame in black, with black Canfield seatpost clamp and Cane Creek 40 headset. I'll have to check on shipping, plus get pics and stuff, but I'm open to selling it.
Wonderful bike, but I'm afraid my hardtail days are over.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Anyone know where to source a derailleur hanger for a first gen Yelli? There's nothing listed on Canfield's site. The Wheels Mfg 103 is listed as a replacement, but I've tried that one before and it looks close but doesn't fit.


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## reydiaz (Mar 20, 2013)

*looking for first generation Yelli*

I am interested in buying a Yelli 1st generation medium. Thanks,


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## rwrusso (Apr 12, 2011)

car_nut said:


> Anyone know where to source a derailleur hanger for a first gen Yelli? There's nothing listed on Canfield's site. The Wheels Mfg 103 is listed as a replacement, but I've tried that one before and it looks close but doesn't fit.


If you're still looking, I'd give them a call/chat. Maybe they have some laying around?


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## larrylund (Jan 26, 2008)

reydiaz said:


> I am interested in buying a Yelli 1st generation medium. Thanks,


Just PM you. I have a med black 135mm rear frame. Like new condition.

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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Anyone have a small or medium, black or orange or blue, later model, Yelli frame, they want to sell?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

I've got a first gen YS in black XL.
Located in Nova Scotia, Canada. It's been sitting in my garage for years and I literally cant give it away.


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## Clute Buffalo (Mar 27, 2021)

JoshM said:


> I've got a first gen YS in black XL.
> Located in Nova Scotia, Canada. It's been sitting in my garage for years and I literally cant give it away.


What would it take to get that frame to Park City, Utah?


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## JoshM (Apr 3, 2010)

Clute Buffalo said:


> What would it take to get that frame to Park City, Utah?


Gimme a zip code and I can get an exact shipping quote. You pay for shipping and it's yours. I can take some pictures of it if you'd like to DM me


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