# Marzocchi Support [THREAD CLOSED - please visit the Shocks & Suspension Forum]



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Greetings, 
Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need. 

Our phone number for customer service is (800) 227-5579. Our local number is (661)257-6630. 

We have experienced technicians and viable solutions to your problems. We are commited to making the best products on the market. We appologize for any issues you maybe having and are willing to go the extra mile to make everyone happy, even if it requires getting a new fork. 

We can't do much for issues like dropping your bike on a rock and denting your stanchions or lowers but we do have the parts to fix stuff like that too :thumbsup: , granted it will not be warrantied for something like this. 

So feel free to give us a call and let's get you rolling!!! 
 
Happy Trails!! 
Marzocchi USA Tech Department


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Cool. Check out the threads about the 55 troubles, as well as the 66 ATA woes.

Are you guys here to answer questions on the forum, or redirect back to the offices?


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Exellent!!!


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

I guess my words to SloMo aka the Folinator of Hawaii didn't fall of deaf ears. Hopefully these guys will get all you riders to quit squealing like babies, and start singing some praise about their forks being "smooth as butter" again, which is the desired response that we know and have come to expect from the BIG M.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

We have seen the other topics. We would like to redirect these people with troubles to us so we can actually fix the problems. We can try to answer as many questions as we can here but as you know we are only a few and the web is so many. It's best to get in touch with us directly. There is a spot on our website to ask technical questions as well. This is done everyday.

Try www.marzocchi.com.

Who is this SloMo aka the Folinator of Hawaii?? 

We have got you covered!!:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings


Cool, welcome aboard.

Prepare for a bumpy ride. ;^)


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## miklorsmith (Aug 16, 2006)

Hey, can you give me oil levels so I can replace/tune levels in my '07 66 RC2 ETA? There was a thread a while back on doing this on an RC2X but they said the ETA module needed some special lovin'.

The local shop says they've been strongly discouraged from performing services on forks even though they were the top shop in the area for doing exactly that for a decade.

Thanks!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Shock set-up guide*

















































Here's some basic set-up info. I will work on getting you a ROCO Coil Rebuild manual. 
Peace!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

miklorsmith said:


> Hey, can you give me oil levels so I can replace/tune levels in my '07 66 RC2 ETA? There was a thread a while back on doing this on an RC2X but they said the ETA module needed some special lovin'.
> 
> The local shop says they've been strongly discouraged from performing services on forks even though they were the top shop in the area for doing exactly that for a decade.
> 
> Thanks!


The oil level is 65mm from the top of the stanchion with everything in the fork fully compressed.

FYI, Oil volume is hard to use once the fork has had oil in it. This is due to residual oil on the parts which can give you an inaccurate measurement.


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## Mr.P (Feb 8, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> FYI, Oil volume is hard to use once the fork has had oil in it. This is due to residual oil on the parts which can give you an inaccurate measurement.


Agreed. And you may as well post the measurements for all the forks so we don't have to keep bugging you guys.

BTW, I think the MarzoUSA oil volume (CC) amount might be way off for the spring side of the 55 TST2 and R. The oil overflowed on me using the recommended CC amounts on compression test.

Thanks for posting to the forums! :thumbsup:

P


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Eye Candy*

I couldn't resist!!


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## Mr.P (Feb 8, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings,
> Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need.


Can you let us know the oil type and measurements inside the TST2 & TST Micro damper cartridge. And perhaps proper oil filling steps.

It seems the cartridges are locking up due to sucking in bath oil. We can rebuild ourselves if we just have the specs.

P


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mr.P said:


> Agreed. And you may as well post the measurements for all the forks so we don't have to keep bugging you guys.
> 
> BTW, I think the MarzoUSA oil volume (CC) amount might be way off for the spring side of the 55 TST2 and R. The oil overflowed on me using the recommended CC amounts on compression test.
> 
> ...


What is the measurement that we gave you?

Did you cycle the fork while adding the oil?

We have over 147 different models of forks just for this model year and who knows how many OEM special forks. It is almost impossible for me to post all the oil volumes here and very improbable.

Check out our website and ask the questions there too. We will get back to you ASAP.

i think it's time for a lunch ride!!!!:eekster:


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Welcome on board and thanks for having presence here!! :thumbsup: 

I know it may not depend on you, but what about publishing (either here or at Marzocchi's site) Service Instructions, Part Number catalogs with exploded views and all kind of stuff to work on your suspension components.

That's a point where Marzocchi could do better as compared with the competition (you and Magura are the only ones not giving away service instructions) and at any rate, you wouldn't be out of a job as there are people (I'm saying this with all due respect) who can't turn a wrench for the life of them and that would actually help you to have more time to deal with people who really need help.

I hope you can sort out the issues you're having very soon.

BTW... Gotta love my Roco.


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## JoeDesperado (Feb 5, 2006)

how about correct air pressure settings for the ATA forks? the numbers published online are way off...


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

I hope this is the start of something beautiful.


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## goog (Apr 17, 2006)

its about time too !


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## davep (Mar 11, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> FYI, Oil volume is hard to use once the fork has had oil in it. This is due to residual oil on the parts which can give you an inaccurate measurement.


Agreed 110% BUT then why do *you only make volumes available*??????????????????????

You guys would be very well served to put together a small Marz USA site that had some actual tech info. That travesty that is currently up (Marz inc home site) is an absolute void of any useful technical info.

Most of the stuff/info you would need is already being provided to the world at large by the UK distibutor (Windwave). Why is there such a destinct policy to keep helpful information away from US consumers????????????????

*ALL of your competition* makes service info, part numbers, rebuild guides, trouble shooting, FAQ, tuning help, etc, etc available.

I used to be a Marz fan, but this issue alone has moved me to other brands, and I will not be back until Marz comes to terms that this info NEEDS to be shared with the consumer.


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## davep (Mar 11, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> ... I will work on getting you a ROCO Coil Rebuild manual.
> Peace!


Roco rebuild manual is right here: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/rearshocks.html as well as a bunch of general fork info here: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/marzocchitechinfo.html

Some info is out there, Just not available to US customers.


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## motomonkey (Oct 14, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We have seen the other topics. We would like to redirect these people with troubles to us so we can actually fix the problems. We can try to answer as many questions as we can here but as you know we are only a few and the web is so many. It's best to get in touch with us directly. There is a spot on our website to ask technical questions as well. This is done everyday.
> 
> Try www.marzocchi.com.
> 
> ...


He worked with DJ Pumpy pump for a bit. Definitely knows the line better than I do.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Where were you guys a year ago when I needed you?
You owe me back-pay. I'll post the bill later.


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

*it's a useless fan-boi type comment, but I gotta say*

Last spring I put an '07 66 SL1 on the front and a Roco TST R on the back of the bike and it was a leaps-and-bounds improvement from the previous setup.

Now, if only I hadn't blown the Roco ... near as I can tell it gave it's all during the Arizona Spring Fling for me, sometime on my two trips up over and down various parts of South Mountain. 

Anxiously awaiting it's return from "the shock spa."


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## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

I smell a hoax


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## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

derby said:


> I smell a hoax


a day late?


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The oil level is 65mm from the top of the stanchion with everything in the fork fully compressed.
> 
> FYI, Oil volume is hard to use once the fork has had oil in it. This is due to residual oil on the parts which can give you an inaccurate measurement.


I am liking this type of feedback. Are oil levels for a 2007 66 RC2X any different then what you identified for the 2007 66 ETA?

thx


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Okay Marz. tech support, answer me this question:
What is the maximum air speed of an unladen african swallow, and what the heck is it doing in my RC2 cartridge?


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## nadinno78 (Mar 23, 2006)

M- Tech. Way to be proactive to a potentially bad situation. Glad your online.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I will work on getting you a ROCO Coil Rebuild manual.
> Peace!


Here's one for the Roco Air R 2007...


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

nadinno78 said:


> M- Tech. Way to be proactive to a potentially bad situation. Glad your online.


"Potentially"?


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

Renegade said:


> ...unladen african swallow, and what the heck is it doing in my RC2 cartridge?


Crap Renegade, I just snotted my soda! Thanks a BUNCH.


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## Guest (Apr 2, 2008)

Hey guys, glad to see your here to help. The Cali service department has always been great to deal with and has stepped up to help me personally as of late with all the issues I have had, so I understand that a lot of what's going on is probably an issue of engineering and assembly, not the support group.

Yes, my 888RC3 lower's issue was a crash, and yes I can say I had my new lowers in a matter of a couple days thanks to you guys. (The black lowers look sick btw). 

But there is still and issue of the foot nut on the spring side. I cannot for the life of me get that thing to tighten down. It just spins around and around. I cranked the preload on the spring all the way up, had someone compress the fork to try to hold it in place and nothing, still spinning. I just don't want another incident like the first time where it comes off and dumps the oil.

Any suggestions?


Also, what advice can I give to the 8 or so guys who have new 66's that are getting bushing slop? Is it a lowers issue, is it s bushing issue. One guy (I wont mention any names, but the Cali group knows him well) send his in and got it back with the same problem.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I think this is a hoax as well. Join date 3/31/07 and just too helpful and enthusiastic to be Marzocchi...probably just a well-informed Marzocchi fan but I'd love to be proven wrong.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

He seems suspiciously well informed about oil levels and Zoke products in general to be working for Zoke. :skep:


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

and too eager to help- in stark contrast to Marzocchi company policy!


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Flyer said:


> and too eager to help- in stark contrast to Marzocchi company policy!


:thumbsup:


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

This is almost as good as the thread over on the Turner board that has Dave deciding to close up shop.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

No way. The best was the one about how Ells was going to license the dw link. If they could rope Gary Fisher into the deal they would have the ultimate blowhard trifecta.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I noted how EW has trademarked their "made by hand" phrase.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

I declare shenanigans!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Where were you guys a year ago when I needed you?
> You owe me back-pay. I'll post the bill later.


Same phone number as a year ago. Catch me at the bar sometime, I'll buy you a BEER


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## blackagness (Mar 1, 2005)

*I Have Your Answer...*



sixsixtysix said:


> But there is still and issue of the foot nut on the spring side. I cannot for the life of me get that thing to tighten down. It just spins around and around. I cranked the preload on the spring all the way up, had someone compress the fork to try to hold it in place and nothing, still spinning. I just don't want another incident like the first time where it comes off and dumps the oil.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> .


You need a (Husky 3/8" Butterfly impact wrench) from Home Depot. It's their house brand, and I think it's around $50.00. Set it "BETWEEN" settings 1 and 2. You'll need access to an air compressor.

This is what Zoke tech uses themselves in the setting above. I bought one, and all my troubles disappeared in seconds. It makes changing oil, or opening your fork for any reason TROUBLE FREE!

Your welcome.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I agree too!*



davep said:


> Agreed 110% BUT then why do *you only make volumes available*??????????????????????
> 
> You guys would be very well served to put together a small Marz USA site that had some actual tech info. That travesty that is currently up (Marz inc home site) is an absolute void of any useful technical info.
> 
> ...


Believe me you are being heard! 

Windwave does a great job trying to educate the consumers. Marzocchi USA is just a distributor too. Just because BM (the big cheese) lives here doesn't make it all knowing. Our product is engineered in Italy, concepts come from the field. BM is the man with the concept, Italy pulls it off. We are just like windwave in the way we market and provide info, however we do not have a person dedicated to this task (seems like I have been thrown to the sharks) and we've relied on Italy to produce this information. Being an employee of Marzocchi USA (24-7), I appoligize (for Marzocchi) for this short coming. I wish it was different.

The best thing we, Marzocchi USA, can offer is a helpful hand and our (at times) personal knowledge. There aren't any service instructions unless we make them ourselves just like the video in Italian of the guy changing the oil in his ATA. We have schematics and part numbers. We don't have every part, all the time.

We ride. We try stuff and we break stuff, Oh cool. (sorry personal vent:madman: :nono:  )...I'm back.

More info....
As far as the whole volumes vs. hieghts thing...that's the way forks are built.It doesn't mean it will be perfect for your weight and stlye riding. Until you start to service a fork you have no idea. This number is for a brand spanking new fork, dry as a bone. 
Open bath, open cartridge:
The tech's just go by a simple number for single clamp forks or non 888 models, open cartridge the number is 45mm MAX. (If I lost you already you shouldn't be working on your fork!!) That hieght on any fork is a lot (that's why I gave 65mm earlier) but I have still used higher.

Oil hieght in these forks and effects your spring curve. A lot of times you are using air preload. If you add air preload to any system you have a big variable. Different oil volumes change the spring curve(even if there is a coil spring involved too). Millimeters (and CC's) of oil matter. Volumes are great for production, Italian style, Taiwan style, American Style, Canadian style but not for service and tuning.

Cartridge forks (no holes except for a pump or a knob)
You have to be careful with cartridge forks. You can not set an oil hieght correctly with a cartridge (TST, ATA, bladder, non-bladder, etc) due to not being able to measure it with everything compressed (you can't screw in the cartridge and measure it). 30cc's is the number with 35mm stanchion and under. 35 and over stanchions with more than 160mm travel can take 50cc's no problem. That's production. You can run another 10-20cc's for better lubrication. It's weight wars people (don't hate the player, hate the game).

The website info comes from production spec. It can only be used for reference. A brand new fork, new cartridge, new springs, new seals, those will take the volume measurement(if added correctly) Other than that you have to check it...by hieght.

It's never easy huh? Rear shocks use height too.

I think updating the website would be a great thing too....and we are listening.


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## igotbanned (Oct 20, 2007)

Hey, M - Tech Department........

Will you give me your name and extension number?

I figure then we can know if you are real or not.

Also, my 66 rc3 just got warranted, and it tops out pretty badly ( unless i slow the rebound way down). Does it just need more oil in it?

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Okay Marz. tech support, answer me this question:
> What is the maximum air speed of an unladen african swallow, and what the heck is it doing in my RC2 cartridge?


Is it when it's compressing or extending it's wings?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

davep said:


> Roco rebuild manual is right here: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/rearshocks.html as well as a bunch of general fork info here: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/marzocchitechinfo.html
> 
> Some info is out there, Just not available to US customers.


Crazy, I wrote the rebuild guide. :madmax:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Correct Aia Pressures for ATA*



JoeDesperado said:


> how about correct air pressure settings for the ATA forks? the numbers published online are way off...


Firstly, start by adding / checking the air to the bottom air valve, the PAR chamber. What seems to work is 100-130psi. I am 185-190 and I like 120psi. Even if you are 300lbs, I wouldn't go much above 150psi.

Next add air to the top. I love 45-50 psi for moderate terrain. If it's super steep drop runs I like 55psi. My 888 ATA setting, 47 top/ 125bottom. My 55 ATA 47top/ 125psi bottom. Normal riding I use 45psi. It safe to start here.

If you are lighter use less. If your are heavier, use more.

Now if the fork is too plush, adjust the top air valve. This will stiffen up the top end of the stroke. The fork has a negative air spring that is controlled by the top pressure. It will always have a little subtleness and will never top-out.

Bicycle Bob says, "always complete the loop"!


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## JoeDesperado (Feb 5, 2006)

thx :thumbsup: 
the official MZ site(s) should be updated with these numbers, too...


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## steve47co1 (May 18, 2005)

*Which species did you find in that cart, Rennie?*



Renegade said:


> Okay Marz. tech support, answer me this question:
> What is the maximum air speed of an unladen african swallow, and what the heck is it doing in my RC2 cartridge?


Was it just an unladen African Swallow or an unladen African Equatorial Swallow?


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## Pableras (Aug 8, 2006)

Hey!! This is great!

I have a simple cuestion for you:

I own a '06 Mx Comp and as you know I have to open it to set the rebound. Last time I unscrewed the protection cap (using the 21 mm socket) I noticed that the o-ring located just between this cap and the fork was quite damaged.

The fork has no air leaks but I'm afraid that the next time I open it, the o-ring will break.

I imagine that this o-ring has a standard measure * I just want to know that reference to buy some at a hardware store. *

Thanks!! 

Picture (the o-ring goes there but it doesn't appear):


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Unless you're going to the store on the bike, why not take the cap in and match it up?


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## miklorsmith (Aug 16, 2006)

removed


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## arctic303 (Sep 27, 2006)

Question for you M-Tech - why does my 160mm 55 TST2 only have 140mm of usable travel, even when I let all the air out? The TST isn't on or partially on and it's brand new. Is it OK to ride like this, or is using it going to make it worse?

Thanks.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

crisillo said:


> :thumbsup:


Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.

A hoax I am not.

My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one that hammers the Italians about issues we see (from the market and production) and try to give them a solutions to the problems. My prime responsiblity is "Everything it seems". The title on my desk says Master Dirtologist.:thumbsup:

I have a phone (and an extension) but I do not work in tech. You can ask for me but you'd be better off getting through to our tech department. I am not at my desk very often.

I am a problem solver, designer, fabricator, test rider, Pro rider support suspension technician. I work with Product Managers for various brands. Basically I get to ride all the new stuff (2009 is amazing, and 2010 is on the table). I build the sweet ass custom forks for the Pros!!! Lopes, Cowan, Bass, Gracia, etc...

Naz in Canada is my hommie!

Currently I am trying to solve YOUR problems.

A hoax I am not. I am no ******** straight up in your face!!! If you know me then you know this is true. I am the nice guy  .


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## miklorsmith (Aug 16, 2006)

Ossum!

This thread is going to get ridiculously splintered. I suggest individual threads for different problems.

Please let me start this ball rolling with the RC2 ETA thread which I will freshen momentarily.

Thanks!!


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.
> 
> A hoax I am not.
> 
> My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one


That's great, Tom. As I need a larger canister for my Roco Air R 2007 because the spring rate ramps up so much that it just doesn't use the travel fully on trailriding situations.

For those of us that do not jump or huck, the Roco Air R ramps up a bit too much.

Congrats on the damping, it's the very best out there without getting assistance from a tuner. You nailed it.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.
> 
> A hoax I am not.
> 
> My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one that hammers the Italians about issues we see (from the market and production) and try to give them a solutions to the problems. My prime responsiblity is "Everything it seems". The title on my desk says Master Dirtologist.:thumbsup:


Awesome to have you onboard, Tom! :thumbsup:

one detail, please add the "affiliation" info to your signature to comply with the guidelines


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

crisillo said:


> Awesome to have you onboard, Tom! :thumbsup:
> 
> one detail, please add the "affiliation" info to your signature to comply with the guidelines


I'd say his screen name is enough... But that's just me.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Warp said:


> I'd say his screen name is enough... But that's just me.


yeah I know..... wanna play good cop, bad cop? :lol:

I was just "enforcing"


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Tom,

Is Brian Peterson still with Zoke? He left a bad taste in the mouths of many people here that I'm sure, like me, they won't forget. His apathy towards the customer and inability to do his job was a contributing factor to why you're going to encounter many skeptical of any presence here, so be forewarned. You're going uphill and that's the only way out- to fix things, rather than abandon the customers.

Check this thread for a nice set of responses from Brian:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=216879&page=2

Another problem was how he pretended to know a lot of the technical workings, but obviously did not.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mr.P said:


> Can you let us know the oil type and measurements inside the TST2 & TST Micro damper cartridge. And perhaps proper oil filling steps.
> 
> It seems the cartridges are locking up due to sucking in bath oil. We can rebuild ourselves if we just have the specs.
> 
> P


You can use Golden Spectro 7.5wt or my personal favorite Pro Curcuit PS-02. The red oil is special oil but not that special, in fact I hate to work with it.

It don't think you are sucking in oil from the oil bath. I think it is over filled from the factory. You can crack open the bottom end cap on the cartridge, (holding it upside down) then compress the pumping element (the inner rod) completely. Now extend the shaft and tighten the endcap. I perfer to leave it compressed when tightening but you can extend it too.

It is the same operation if you do it from the top cap thread. Fill the cartridge, cycle the pumping element, compress it with the top compression assembly in as far as possible without sealing, extend it, tighten it down (torque = Nice and snug, not kung foo)

Rocket Science!!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*What kind of bike do you have it on?*



Warp said:


> That's great, Tom. As I need a larger canister for my Roco Air R 2007 because the spring rate ramps up so much that it just doesn't use the travel fully on trailriding situations.
> 
> For those of us that do not jump or huck, the Roco Air R ramps up a bit too much.
> 
> Congrats on the damping, it's the very best out there without getting assistance from a tuner. You nailed it.


Regretfully that was addressed in 2008. The trend with frame designs and leverage rates has changed slightly (for the better) over the last couple of years. Due to this the air spring has a larger volume for 2008 and on.

Have you deflated your shock completely to make sure that it will compress all the way?


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## kimguroo (Dec 26, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.
> 
> A hoax I am not.
> 
> ...


can you help me with this?
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=389944


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## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Tom,
> 
> Is Brian Peterson still with Zoke? He left a bad taste in the mouths of many people here that I'm sure, like me, they won't forget. His apathy towards the customer and inability to do his job was a contributing factor to why you're going to encounter many skeptical of any presence here, so be forewarned. You're going uphill and that's the only way out- to fix things, rather than abandon the customers.
> 
> ...


BP has left. Chris Arnold is his replacement and is a super nice guy, really responsive and knowledgable.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Regretfully that was addressed in 2008. The trend with frame designs and leverage rates has changed slightly (for the better) over the last couple of years. Due to this the air spring has a larger volume for 2008 and on.
> 
> Have you deflated your shock completely to make sure that it will compress all the way?


The shock is mounted to a Titus Switchblade... 5" travel, rising rate from roughly 3:1 at the beginning of stroke to 2:1 at the end of stroke.

Yeah, I've deflated the shock to make sure. Actually, I've rebuilt the complete shock (including opening the damper a few times). It's just that, that the volume left at end of stroke is basically what's left in the outer sleeve of the shock.

Yes, I see the new 2008 shocks have solved a lot of the issues with the 2007... especially now the air canister is serviceable without deflating the IFP and you don't need to remove the rebound adjuster assembly now. Neat. Too bad I'm on the old design, but such is life.

One more thing as feedback on the 2007 (I can't say if it's equal on the 2008)... I don't know if it's only my shock... But the IFP's inflation Schrader core is way too up into the hole provided. The standard Marzocchi Air Adapter is too long and it hits the core stem before the o-ring in the adapter seals the hole... so you lose pressure when removing the shock pump. Are you guys using a special adapter at the shop?

If you feel like it, please drop me a PM with your e-mail address and we can go at large on the subject or I may even call you.... but I'm in Mexico, so it ain't cheap.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*It can be fixed.*



arctic303 said:


> Question for you M-Tech - why does my 160mm 55 TST2 only have 140mm of usable travel, even when I let all the air out? The TST isn't on or partially on and it's brand new. Is it OK to ride like this, or is using it going to make it worse?
> 
> Thanks.


Sorry to here it. Unfortunately you have an issue. It can potentially break the cartridge.

The TST has too much oil in it. It is easy to remove some of the oil but only if you feel comfortable working on suspension stuff.

I posted some info on this exact thing earlier....maybe on another thread. Check it out or feel free to call us and set-up an RA#.

Sorry for the troubles.


----------



## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line.


Awesome job. The Roco TST on my Turner pwns.  The only negative to it is the ridiculously long piggyback canister. It causes interference on quite a few frames (Ventanas and Turners come to mind).


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Brian is gone!*



Jerk_Chicken said:


> Tom,
> 
> Is Brian Peterson still with Zoke? He left a bad taste in the mouths of many people here that I'm sure, like me, they won't forget. His apathy towards the customer and inability to do his job was a contributing factor to why you're going to encounter many skeptical of any presence here, so be forewarned. You're going uphill and that's the only way out- to fix things, rather than abandon the customers.
> 
> ...


Brian is a good guy but he just might have taken some of the dirt flinging about our issues personally and over time became bitter to the whole deal. After all he was just a sales guy right. He no longer works for us.

Chris Arnold is the man! He will do what he can. I don't think you will catch him jumping on the boards anytime soon.


----------



## arctic303 (Sep 27, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Sorry to here it. Unfortunately you have an issue. It can potentially break the cartridge.
> 
> The TST has too much oil in it. It is easy to remove some of the oil but only if you feel comfortable working on suspension stuff.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the quick response :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

Tom,

Is there any chance there will be smaller airvalves for roco tst r's? Due to the length it doesn't fit tight suspension design's with rocker plate's, like the Banshee Wildcard. Thank's in advance.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I wish we had one*



Sneeck said:


> Tom,
> 
> Is there any chance there will be smaller airvalves for roco tst r's? Due to the length it doesn't fit tight suspension design's with rocker plate's, like the Banshee Wildcard. Thank's in advance.


We did do a remote reservior shock a while back but nobody wanted it so the project never made it past proto sample phase. Sorry.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Thanks for the info Tom. Any possibility of 2007 tech manuals similar to the 06 ones here:

http://www.birota.ru/manuals/marzocchi/index.php#2006

Would be really nice to have one for my 2007 Z1 (and the possibility of converting it to dual spring......)


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## blackagness (Mar 1, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We did do a remote reservior shock a while back but nobody wanted it so the project never made it past proto sample phase. Sorry.


I might actually buy a Marzocchi again someday because of you. :winker:


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## burtmotoxrider (Apr 3, 2008)

this is probs stupid but whats the difference between the mx pro lockout 08 fork and the mx lockout 08 fork, ones pro?? what makes the pro better. and will some avid juicy 5's work with this if i get a post mount adaptor?


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

*Questions...*

Would you happen to the part number for the "rebound adjuster knob/bolt" for a ROCO coil? I called several weeks ago and spoke w/ Kevin, said you were out of stock till late March... Would be nice if I had a part number when I call back.

:thumbsup:


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## JMH (Feb 23, 2005)

Tom, where's the 3.5" stroke ROCO for MY Maelstrom? Saving all the nuggets for Pablo, eh?  

Good to see you on the boards, don't let yourself get overrun.

JMH


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## wellby (Sep 18, 2005)

*888rc3 wc*

I love the fork but why does marzocchi list the fork as weighing 6.9 pounds when my fork is almost 8.6 pounds? Almost 2 pounds overweight!


----------



## leoflc (Apr 6, 2007)

I have a 03 Bomber Jr. T,

Here are my questions:
I might have over turned the damper nob a few times, so right now I don't think I can really feel the effect when I change the damping ratio. How can I fix that?

Another question is, where can I can parts so I can do my own rebuild?
Or do you guys provide rebuild service?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Hey Tom! Who talked you into being subjected to the eMTyBeeR bs???

That Roco revalve went nice and smoothly. The thing feels godly now. I'll bring you some brews the next time I stop through for parts and goodies - some for Ronnie too, he's been a big help on multiple occasions.

Quick question - on the WC models what does the external compression adjust change, the high or low speed? I have read conflicting stories both in the manuals and the website and elsewhere. I would guess that the piston shim stack is the only high speed control and the adjuster/shim stack at the base of the reservoir controls the low/mid speed. Correct or am I way off base?

From an engineering standpoint, I'm impressed with the shock and the layout and how simple and effective it is once you open it up and have your nose in it. Nice job mate...


For the naysayers, Tom is a legit Marzocchi employee. I don't know how he got conned into submitting himself to the prevalent shitstorm on here, but be thankful that he is because I sure wouldn't put up with it and most other people wouldn't either.


----------



## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

*Are we posting any and every issue in this thread?*

I guess I'll jump on the bandwagon.... just serviced the ole '06 888 and noticed a little wear in the stanchion (consistent lower into the stanchion). :skep:

Worth losing sleep over? Still feels cherry.


----------



## Clutchman83 (Apr 16, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We did do a remote reservior shock a while back but nobody wanted it so the project never made it past proto sample phase. Sorry.


I've been a pretty dedicated nay-sayer of Marzocchi since I invested in an '07 All Mountain 1 and experienced multiple failures of the TST, ETA and what I would call less than satisfactory service from the factory, but I must say, if you guys were to offer a remote reservoir rear shock with features similar to a DHX 5 I might be lured back. I know its after the fact but pass it on to your marketing guys. You've got at least 1 of I'm assuming many potential buyers attention.


----------



## Duzitall (Feb 4, 2004)

*couple hours use on that fork*

Naw, that shiny spot just shows it's working in the shudder bumps :thumbsup:


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

leoflc said:


> I have a 03 Bomber Jr. T,
> 
> Here are my questions:
> I might have over turned the damper nob a few times, so right now I don't think I can really feel the effect when I change the damping ratio. How can I fix that?
> ...


Best thing to do is go to the source. Give Marzocchi USA a call. 661-257-6630.


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## Rb (Feb 28, 2007)

DHidiot said:


> For the naysayers, Tom is a legit Marzocchi employee. I don't know how he got conned into submitting himself to the prevalent shitstorm on here, but be thankful that he is because I sure wouldn't put up with it and most other people wouldn't either.


Quoted because it's the motherf*ckin' truth!


----------



## zahgurim (Aug 12, 2005)

The real deal, eh?

I'm hoping you can help me out with a problem I'm having, then. 

Please check your PMs, doesn't need to be a part of the thread...


----------



## blackagness (Mar 1, 2005)

Rb said:


> Quoted because it's the motherf*ckin' truth!


Well who's fault is that? You let the dishes pile up in the sink you'r gona leave a mess. As opposed to doing them after every meal.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

blackagness said:


> Well who's fault is that? You let the dishes pile up in the sink you'r gona leave a mess. As opposed to doing them after every meal.


quoted for truth. I've only used Zoke since I started riding, with a total of six over the years. The AM1 was a complete disappointment, swapped for a Z1 Light, and then when I needed more, dealing with Brian on the phone, and hearing the further troubles, I went to Fox. Not that I'm even completely happy with the Fox, but once I got the bugs worked out (on my own), I was happy. Happier than if I had bought a 66 and faced bushing slop and other likely issues. I loathed dealing with Zoke again and spending $40 in shipping every time something happened to the fork and waiting a really long time, risking the fork being delivered back to me untouched with the claim of the work having been performed, excuses of waiting on replacement parts, etc. FWIW, my experience was great, outside of the AM1 performance, but the few times I dealt with Zoke's guys, it was a nightmare, and many lies and inability of sales to do their job when tech went to bat for me.


----------



## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

Hey Soulrider, I talked to a tech guy a couple months ago when I was ordering a new crown. I don't remember his name, but he couldn't or wouldn't give me the oil height for my 06 888VF2.

I also need it for my 01 Z1 Freeride.

Thanks in advance Tom.


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Oil levels, ect. for a lot of forks up to 2006 can be found in the Marzocchi Service Manuals here: http://manualer.happymtb.org/marzocchi/


----------



## H2economy (May 17, 2004)

*2008 Marzocchi XC 700 ATA Woes*

Hope the tech guys read this and or get my email via their web site. I just purchased (2) 2008 XC 700 ATA forks. When I opened up box number one all was good in the world. When I opened box #2 the fork was covered in oil and the box was saturated down the one side. I am assuming this is not a good thing? If this needs a rebuild I would like to get things moving ASAP as the riding season is now upon us up here in chilly NY.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

burtmotoxrider said:


> this is probs stupid but whats the difference between the mx pro lockout 08 fork and the mx lockout 08 fork, ones pro?? what makes the pro better. and will some avid juicy 5's work with this if i get a post mount adaptor?


The MX Pro LO is an oil bath tapered stanchion (lighter) fork with lock-out.

The MX LO is a steel stanchion (sometimes straight wall alloy) coil/mcu non-oil bath fork.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*It looks like it might have another season left in 'em*



GLIDE said:


> I guess I'll jump on the bandwagon.... just serviced the ole '06 888 and noticed a little wear in the stanchion (consistent lower into the stanchion). :skep:
> 
> Worth losing sleep over? Still feels cherry.


That looks like mostly the pigment in the tube is wearing off whichs means the stanchion has wear too. As soon as the anodize is worn all the way through it will need to be replaced, perferably prior to this happening. That anodize layer is like the shell of an egg, once it is worn through it looses a majority of it's strength. Normal wear and tear.

Try to keep the stanchions clean of dry mud and built up dirt. A simple wipe down prior to riding each day (or run) will increase it's life. A simple whip off with your glove prior to dropping in helps.

It bet your fork is buttery....NICE!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

MattP. said:


> Would you happen to the part number for the "rebound adjuster knob/bolt" for a ROCO coil? I called several weeks ago and spoke w/ Kevin, said you were out of stock till late March... Would be nice if I had a part number when I call back.
> 
> :thumbsup:


The part number is 549125TF - knob, 520391 - screw. I think you should call back and ask again. I probably have one I can spare.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

DHidiot said:


> Hey Tom! Who talked you into being subjected to the eMTyBeeR bs???
> 
> That Roco revalve went nice and smoothly. The thing feels godly now. I'll bring you some brews the next time I stop through for parts and goodies - some for Ronnie too, he's been a big help on multiple occasions.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the props!

As far as the external compression adjuster, it effects mid and high speed compression. It is an HSCV, high speed compression valve.

The main piston (inside the main body) controls low and mid range compression.


----------



## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That looks like mostly the pigment in the tube is wearing off whichs means the stanchion has wear too. As soon as the anodize is worn all the way through it will need to be replaced, perferably prior to this happening. That anodize layer is like the shell of an egg, once it is worn through it looses a majority of it's strength. Normal wear and tear.
> 
> Try to keep the stanchions clean of dry mud and built up dirt. A simple wipe down prior to riding each day (or run) will increase it's life. A simple whip off with your glove prior to dropping in helps.
> 
> It bet your fork is buttery....NICE!


Word....weird that its only happening on one stanchion. But, I guess I'll pick up a stanchion and swap it in when I get a chance.

The fork is still like a tha butta'! :thumbsup:


----------



## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We did do a remote reservior shock a while back but nobody wanted it so the project never made it past proto sample phase. Sorry.


No i'm not talking about the piggy, just the airvalve. It's too freakin' big to fit tight suspension rocker design's, as you can see in this picture. Is there any option to use another one, mayb from a different shock so it sit's as close as possible to the shock body?


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## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

sneek, what about mounting the shock upside down?


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## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

bear said:


> sneek, what about mounting the shock upside down?


It will fit that way, but that only gives me 5" of travel. It won't fit in the 6,5" setting, only with a smaller valve.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Is that the Wildcard? I looked at the website and it looks like you "might" be able to mount the shock up-side down from how you have it shown. That's all I have for suggestions. We only have one air valve.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Actually I would like to register a follow-up complaint to all shock manufacturers who have placed the air valves in the location Sneeck is indicating. Fox got smart and moved theirs to the front of the shock. _*Huge *_improvement.

Anyway, you guys should have my 55 ATA by now. I am expecting great things.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I will tell the guidos!*




tscheezy said:


> Actually I would like to register a follow-up complaint to all shock manufacturers who have placed the air valves in the location Sneeck is indicating. Fox got smart and moved theirs to the front of the shock. _*Huge *_improvement.
> 
> Anyway, you guys should have my 55 ATA by now. I am expecting great things.


Public forums, great place to complain!! Just joking....kind of 
This isn't the first time we have had requests to move the valve. Currently it fit on "most" frames, yours not included. Could you imagine our warehouse if we had to double the SKU's to have both types to make all customers happy. Currently there are over 40 different shock configurations, 90 different mounting hardware sizes and 80 or so spring lengths and rates.....plus spare parts....and then there are forks .

I used to work at the other "M" company and we must have moved the air valve 3-4 times. Everytime we moved it and did another run we would have the same issue, somebody would need it in a different location. At an OEM level is not such a big problem due to the OEM making sure it fits and tweeking the design accordingly to fit the shock design. It's a woo of after market only.

I will let the powers that be know about this though and see what we can do....

What's your RA#? I will check it out.


----------



## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Could you imagine our warehouse if we had to double the SKU's to have both types to make all customers happy.


What about standarization??

This industry needs some. You know, axle sizes, brake mounts, fasteners...

A few years ago, all one had to check to buy a new fork was if it was 1 1/8" or 1" steerer... Now.... axle size, brake mounts, steerer size... Just for a fork.


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## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

Yep it's the wildcard. Tscheezy, the DHX shock's got the valve at the exact same location, only it is very low-profile whilest the roco valve is very long. 

Mayb I could swap the zochi valve for a fox one and be done with it?


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*It is be defined more now.*



Warp said:


> What about standarization??
> 
> This industry needs some. You know, axle sizes, brake mounts, fasteners...
> 
> A few years ago, all one had to check to buy a new fork was if it was 1 1/8" or 1" steerer... Now.... axle size, brake mounts, steerer size... Just for a fork.


Nobody wants to play nice together I guess

It is however becoming more defined as per intended use. 20mm axles on DH and FR bikes, big rotors only on DH forks...and post mount brakes. Just that is starting to help.

Look for more definition down the road. XC is XC, AM is AM, DH/FR is DH/FR, DJ is DJ. A backflip no hander is a backflip no hander...

How about the new 1.5 to 1.125 steertube that FOX and Specialized are doing....now that's progress huh? We did that 4 years ago....now we could be forced to do it too.


----------



## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> What's your RA#? I will check it out.


RA 92986

Issues:

Fork won't compress beyond 100mm travel, even with air springs deflated. I pulled the TST Micro damper rod out and the cartridge definitely hits a wall around 100mm.
Air moves freely between the main air chamber and the PAR chamber.
The crown creaks abhorrently.
The axle is undersized (~19.8mm) and allows the hub/wheel to move when slamming through rock gardens even when the axle is cranked until the lever "pops".
The paint is chipping off in chunks (read as: cheap finish).

That's it for now.  Thanks for your interest. :thumbsup:

Sneeck- I meant the RP23 has a forward-angled valve now. Yep, the DHX Air still sucks.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*How about a black lower?*



tscheezy said:


> RA 92986
> 
> Issues:
> 
> ...


Rebleed the TST micro - All good now
Replaced all o-rings in the ATA cartridge - All good now
Axle size is good. Our axles have always been the same. What kind of hub do you have? We gave you a new axle anyways but it measures axactly the same as every axle in our building for the last 11 years. 
We can not get the crown to creak and have to issues with crick-crock crowns and 55's. Check your headset cups, bearing, crown race...add grease to these junctions. 99% of the time it is something with the headset. I'll double check it though.

I have a Black lower if you want it. That way when you hit rocks and chip the paint from mounting your wheel you will not be able to see the damage .


----------



## WaveDude (Jan 14, 2004)

Wow, this thread isn't confusing enough so I'll add my questions in here as well. I have an '07 DJ 3.5 (came stock on a '07 P2 Cro-Mo):

1) What's up with the harsh top-out? Lots of queries here and other forums and all the recent DJ series forks I've run across do this. I can feel it in stutter bumps and over roots. Cranking up the rebound does nothing (except slow the rebound)--it still knocks. It's not the headset, hub and there's minimal slop in the bushings. Been like this since new (1 yr ago). Is there a way to fix it or is it just the way it is.

2) Time for an oil-change. It has bolt-on crown-to-stanchion. Should I loosen those bolts up before cracking the top-caps loose like you would on a dual-crown fork?


----------



## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

The axle size is most definitely different than the axles from my Z1 FR1 and my 66SL. I tried a Chris King, WTB Laserdisc DH, DT FR440, and Hope Pro II (yep, _ALL _my 20mm hubs ) and when I slide the 55's axle through, I can get noticably more slop than the axles from my Z1 or 66 produce (when I just check for play with the axle in the hub but not installed in a fork). I never had play with my other forks.

I tried to eliminate the headset as an issue also, and once I got back to Alaska the creaking diminished, but it was pretty gnarly on our road trip in Utah. It seems like a humidity thing as things will creak on me in the desert that never creak at home. 

Any color lowers are fine.

Thanks, mang. :thumbsup:


----------



## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> How about the new 1.5 to 1.125 steertube that FOX and Specialized are doing....now that's progress huh? We did that 4 years ago....now we could be forced to do it too.


Oh, how great... I'm stoked... Now I can have half the advantages of the 1.5" by adding half the weight of it to a 1.125" steerer...  

I think I was just venting... Not your fault... But if you can help the factory to adopt more standarized designs, that'd be great.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Maybe start a new thread....*



WaveDude said:


> Wow, this thread isn't confusing enough so I'll add my questions in here as well. I have an '07 DJ 3.5 (came stock on a '07 P2 Cro-Mo):
> 
> 1) What's up with the harsh top-out? Lots of queries here and other forums and all the recent DJ series forks I've run across do this. I can feel it in stutter bumps and over roots. Cranking up the rebound does nothing (except slow the rebound)--it still knocks. It's not the headset, hub and there's minimal slop in the bushings. Been like this since new (1 yr ago). Is there a way to fix it or is it just the way it is.
> 
> 2) Time for an oil-change. It has bolt-on crown-to-stanchion. Should I loosen those bolts up before cracking the top-caps loose like you would on a dual-crown fork?


It sounds like it's the valve opening and closing. We changed to a metal valve due to breaking the plastic valves. It now ticks when it opens and closes...and it is what it is, sorry.

You can remove the fork without having to undo your crown and headset junction. You have to remove the top caps to do it. And yes, you will have to loosen your crown bolts to get the top caps to loosen up.

Oil hieght should be 40-45mm from the top, fully compressed, springs removed.

Have a good weekend all!!! Time to get my hands dirty!!!


----------



## SamL3227 (May 30, 2004)

i have a 05 66R that came stock on my 05 sxt. it is set at 150mm travel, i was under the impression all i had to do was move some shims around inside or get different shims. is that all i have to do to get it up to 170mm?

also, what other cartriges can i put it in replace the one ssv thats in it now.


----------



## nenja (Jul 8, 2007)

Hello Marzocchi! Awsome that you found this forum.

I just wanted to ask you to check my thread about my new 888 out. Thanks! 

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=399006


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## Dirt_Dog (Sep 21, 2007)

Man, I gotta keep pinching myself to make sure this isn't a dream!

Mad props to Marocchi Tech support. I feel a lot better about my long term relationship with my new rc3 and the 3 year warranty that came with it.

You will get a lot of customers back if you guys can keep up with this awesome online support. It goes a long ways in MTBR. Just look at the mini-empire Dave Turner has made by doing the same.


----------



## nenja (Jul 8, 2007)

Dirt_Dog said:


> Man, I gotta keep pinching myself to make sure this isn't a dream!
> 
> Mad props to Marocchi Tech support. I feel a lot better about my long term relationship with my new rc3 and the 3 year warranty that came with it.
> 
> You will get a lot of customers back if you guys can keep up with this awesome online support. It goes a long ways in MTBR. Just look at the mini-empire Dave Turner has made by doing the same.


Is it 3 year warranty with each 2008 888? Yeah baby!


----------



## habernac (Apr 12, 2005)

Good to see you're still breathing, Soul, make an appearance over at the Bikemag board, we miss ya.


----------



## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

Props to ya! Zokes... Glad to know your here for us!

Other companies should do the same as you do... like "Cannnondale"


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Rebleed the TST micro - All good now
> Replaced all o-rings in the ATA cartridge - All good now
> Axle size is good. Our axles have always been the same. What kind of hub do you have? We gave you a new axle anyways but it measures axactly the same as every axle in our building for the last 11 years.
> We can not get the crown to creak and have to issues with crick-crock crowns and 55's. Check your headset cups, bearing, crown race...add grease to these junctions. 99% of the time it is something with the headset. I'll double check it though.
> ...


When the white lowers on my '07 888 ATA and '07 66 ATA are finally toasted, are there any black lowers available that will work with the air cartridge side?


----------



## Daner (Apr 30, 2004)

habernac said:


> Good to see you're still breathing, Soul, make an appearance over at the Bikemag board, we miss ya.


What he said.

Hope that things are going well for you and yours. You're doing great here so far, keep it up.


----------



## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

I respectfully withdraw my earlier declaration of shenanigans (sorry, with it being the beginning of April it just seemed likely) and want to say welcome to the boards.

I spoke with Mike at Marz tech today and he was very professional and helpful. My 55 ATA is now going back because the TST micro does not do anything other than full plush or full lock. One of the things I liked most when I got the fork was being able to tune out brake dive but right now that's gone. I'm sure it will get fixed and I appreciate the way Marz/Mike dealt with me on the phone.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

cool to have a rep on here now. Hey can you find Ronnie Dylan and tell him to check his msg and call me. I lost his cell number and cant get in touch with him. If not Ill hunt him down at Sea Otter.


----------



## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Tech Support Dude- don't encourage these guys too much. You will be here 24x7 and end up getting fired

Dang, I lost the air-valve cap on my RP23......


----------



## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech. dept. got a question for you - When it comes to your single crown fork's it is difficult to 1) Determine if they have one or two coil's 2) Next to impossible to find out if hybrid (air / one coil) can be converted to dual coil. I run with a pack of clydsdale's and those hybrid's just don't cut it above 250lb. We have been able to convert our 06-07' Z1's but would like to know who to talk to about adding coils to other forrks ie. Drop Off's, AM1's, 55's etc. My buddy recently called your tech line and got 0 info. Thanx


----------



## pongee (Oct 20, 2005)

Flyer said:


> Dang, I lost the air-valve cap on my RP23......


I heard you can only get those from RS during a full moon ;-)

Cheers,

P.


----------



## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

pongee said:


> I heard you can only get those from RS during a full moon ;-)
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> P.


or at an auto-parts store, in cool anodized colors...


----------



## STS (Jun 24, 2004)

Hi, I have this same issue in my 55 ATA:



tscheezy said:


> RA 92986
> 
> [*]Air moves freely between the main air chamber and the PAR chamber.


you wrote it only needs o-rings change

can you tell me those o-ring specifications to buy and mount by myself (I've done it in other forks)

thanks


----------



## Ordnance (Apr 5, 2008)

*A Question for Tech Support*

Hi, have a question regarding my All Mountain 1 '06 forks. I have just finished servicing the TST cartridge which as far as I can tell went pretty well.

When I was putting the leg back together I ended up spilling some of the 50ml of oil that goes in. I put a bit more in and I think if anything there is probably more like 60-70ml of oil in there now.

The question I have is does this 50ml of oil have to be exact or will I be doing no harm with a bit more in there.

many thanks.


----------



## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Ordnance said:


> The question I have is does this 50ml of oil have to be exact or will I be doing no harm with a bit more in there.
> 
> many thanks.


No harm but I did something similar and made the fork to ride like crap... Too small an air chamber to play with.


----------



## zahgurim (Aug 12, 2005)

You being on the MTBR boards and putting the effort into being a big help can do nothing but good for Marz. 
The world is getting smaller and smaller because of the internet, and Marz is definately a worldwide brand. I hope they pay you well, this could turn into a full-time job...

Thanks for your help with my problem.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I understand completely*



Flyer said:


> Tech Support Dude- don't encourage these guys too much. You will be here 24x7 and end up getting fired
> 
> Dang, I lost the air-valve cap on my RP23......


I live eat and breath bikes 24/7 so it's not a big deal to get on here. Every so often and clear the air.

I would like it if people could post new threads for specific issues or questions. This thread is a splinter!

It's all good in the hood!!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

DHidiot said:


> When the white lowers on my '07 888 ATA and '07 66 ATA are finally toasted, are there any black lowers available that will work with the air cartridge side?


All 38mm (MY08 888, 66)are the same. Coil, air it doesn't matter.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Some can, some can't*



keen said:


> Marzocchi Tech. dept. got a question for you - When it comes to your single crown fork's it is difficult to 1) Determine if they have one or two coil's 2) Next to impossible to find out if hybrid (air / one coil) can be converted to dual coil. I run with a pack of clydsdale's and those hybrid's just don't cut it above 250lb. We have been able to convert our 06-07' Z1's but would like to know who to talk to about adding coils to other forrks ie. Drop Off's, AM1's, 55's etc. My buddy recently called your tech line and got 0 info. Thanx


You need to pop the top caps to see if the fork has one or two coils.

A lot of times you can add a second coil to the fork. The Drop Off's can be, AM1's can be along with some 55's. If the fork is an RV, RCV , ETA, or RC3 you can add. If it has TST you can NOT. It depends on the features you have.

I agree with you, 2 coils feels nice!!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

STS said:


> Hi, I have this same issue in my 55 ATA:
> 
> you wrote it only needs o-rings change
> 
> ...


I don't know the specs. We get a kit and it has all the o-rings in it. I refer to any all o-rings by their part numbers....which I don't know off the top of my head. Sorry, give us a call and we can give you our kit part number.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

PS- who was responsible for the TST?


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Does it really matter*



Jerk_Chicken said:


> PS- who was responsible for the TST?


Marzocchi. It's the same team that brought us AM's, DJ's, XC's 888's, 66's, 05, 06 RC's, 07RC2X, 08 RC3's, ETA, ATA, ECC, QR20, Freeride, Bomber Girls, Monster T's, Super Monster T's and the list goes on.

Why do you ask?


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Too much is not good.*



Ordnance said:


> Hi, have a question regarding my All Mountain 1 '06 forks. I have just finished servicing the TST cartridge which as far as I can tell went pretty well.
> 
> When I was putting the leg back together I ended up spilling some of the 50ml of oil that goes in. I put a bit more in and I think if anything there is probably more like 60-70ml of oil in there now.
> 
> ...


It can potentially limit your travel and also inject itself into your TST damper making it fall short on travel too and potentially break.


----------



## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Man, Zoke voicemail has more issues than the forks. 

I tried to leave a message for Tom R, but first off when you dial his extension to leave a message you get diverted to a different extension (132 turns into 137 magically) and then the box was full. I think I eventually got my thoughts across...

Anyway, if you could pass the following along to Tom, that would be great. Re: the creaking crown, RA# 92986... I know that some folks have reported creaking from their King headsets, but I never have. We have 8 bikes set up with King HSs and never a peep from any of them no matter what fork is mounted or in any riding conditions over the past 10 years. I tried varying the headset's preload but this did not change the creaking sound. Turning the front wheel sideways and rocking the bike eliminated the creak, though this does not indicate anything specific. When the creaking was at its max, I could vary the brake pressure and rock the front end of the bike (including allowing the rotor to slip in the caliper) and the creaking did not vary, so I know it's not the brake. Also, if I wedged the front wheel between some rocks and rocked the bike (no brake), it still creaked. This was while desert riding in Utah. By the time I got home and unpacked the bike and took the fork apart, I could not replicate the creak anymore. I placed the fork uppers on the floor resting on some wooden blocks and pressed down on it, then flipped it over and pressed down again, but no noise which is what you are also finding, I understand.

Seeing how many things had gone awry or simply seemed substandard with my fork I would very much appreciate you guys replacing the uppers just in case, so I don't have to send it in again. I would take it as a gesture of good will to make sure there is a greatly diminished chance of future issues. 

Thanks a lot.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Marzocchi. It's the same team that brought us AM's, DJ's, XC's 888's, 66's, 05, 06 RC's, 07RC2X, 08 RC3's, ETA, ATA, ECC, QR20, Freeride, Bomber Girls, Monster T's, Super Monster T's and the list goes on.
> 
> Why do you ask?


Well, do a search for "TST" here and you'll see why I ask.

I also hope you're not in the dark about the problematic TST units that people spent their hard-earned money on, sending back time and time again. I was one of them, but luckily sold it before it blew up, and blew up it did.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I have your fork in my area.*



tscheezy said:


> Man, Zoke voicemail has more issues than the forks.
> 
> I tried to leave a message for Tom R, but first off when you dial his extension to leave a message you get diverted to a different extension (132 turns into 137 magically) and then the box was full. I think I eventually got my thoughts across...
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'm not easy to get a hold of, for good reason, I don't have time to "deal direct".This is as direct as I can be. I am looking into this creak. I will determine if this is indeed a defect. We don't do a lot of goodwill stuff mainly because Italy does not reimburse us for the warranty claim unless there is indeed a defect. Marzocchi USA is a distributor and we have to play by the rules. 
Monday morning I will conduct a series of tests to find the problem. That's what I do, find problems and fix them. I do not work in warranty I only conduct the tech's on proper analysis of these kinds of issues. A tech already checked the fork and found nothing wrong here. I will double check it. Your fork will be "issue free" when you get it back.

Cheers,
Tom


----------



## 62kona (Mar 25, 2008)

Hey tech guy. I just did a post about my drop off bottoming out very easily after a rough downhill ride. Just wondering what the problem could be.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Well, do a search for "TST" here and you'll see why I ask.
> 
> I also hope you're not in the dark about the problematic TST units that people spent their hard-earned money on, sending back time and time again. I was one of them, but luckily sold it before it blew up, and blew up it did.


Sounds like you solved your problem then....and yes, the lights are on bro! ***** sessions are not why I'm here and I will not get into agruments, discussions are not a problem. Suggestions, great! If it's just a smack down thing....I'm not interested. I ride TST and TST micro everyday....and now it's time to ride!!

I will just stop replying to the selected few if need be...but I would rather make everyone happy.

If you have legitamite problems, the fork will still have to be shipped to us for inspection and repair, possibly a replacement, or upgrade. We have thousands and thousands of TST units in the market and I'm sure there are some that are "out of spec" causing a nagging problem that doesn't go away. RS has probs too and so does FOX. Feel free to step out into the darkside (or into the light) and give it a try. On this site it seems like I can count the TST probs with my fingers (not my toes) The percentage is very small. We do not deny there have been some issues. In these cases, which we will determine, we will make it right.

Here's the numbers...

Have a great day!! Peace

661-257-6630

www.marzocchi.com


----------



## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You need to pop the top caps to see if the fork has one or two coils.
> 
> A lot of times you can add a second coil to the fork. The Drop Off's can be, AM1's can be along with some 55's. If the fork is an RV, RCV , ETA, or RC3 you can add. If it has TST you can NOT. It depends on the features you have.
> 
> I agree with you, 2 coils feels nice!!


 Problem with popping cap's - most online retailers are not going to do this for you. I have been told to contact Marzocchi if I want this info. I called about my 07' Z1 and got different answers until I just went ahead w/ the purchase and looked myself (one coil). Ok 06' Drop Off 1 ETA - what's the part number of the coil/ kit I need ? Who can I call @ Marzocchi for live help with spring conversions ? Thanx


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Yeah, I'm not easy to get a hold of, for good reason, I don't have time to "deal direct".This is as direct as I can be. I am looking into this creak. I will determine if this is indeed a defect. We don't do a lot of goodwill stuff mainly because Italy does not reimburse us for the warranty claim unless there is indeed a defect. Marzocchi USA is a distributor and we have to play by the rules.
> Monday morning I will conduct a series of tests to find the problem. That's what I do, find problems and fix them. I do not work in warranty I only conduct the tech's on proper analysis of these kinds of issues. A tech already checked the fork and found nothing wrong here. I will double check it. Your fork will be "issue free" when you get it back.
> 
> Cheers,
> Tom


Good job doing a "goodwill stuff" on tscheezy case - his word carries a lot of weight on these forums :thumbsup:


----------



## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> If you have legitamite problems, the fork will still have to be shipped to us for inspection and repair, possibly a replacement, or upgrade. We have thousands and thousands of TST units in the market and I'm sure there are some that are "out of spec" causing a nagging problem that doesn't go away. RS has probs too and so does FOX. Feel free to step out into the darkside (or into the light) and give it a try. On this site it seems like I can count the TST probs with my fingers (not my toes) The percentage is very small. We do not deny there have been some issues. In these cases, which we will determine, we will make it right.
> 
> Here's the numbers...
> 
> ...


I may send this one....










The topcap will not budge either.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Well, do a search for "TST" here and you'll see why I ask.
> 
> I also hope you're not in the dark about the problematic TST units that people spent their hard-earned money on, sending back time and time again. I was one of them, but luckily sold it before it blew up, and blew up it did.


I think you need to use a smiley in your statements to get answers that mean something


----------



## Ordnance (Apr 5, 2008)

*Thank you people, much appreciated*

Super quick responses


----------



## MattP. (Oct 3, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The part number is 549125TF - knob, 520391 - screw. I think you should call back and ask again. I probably have one I can spare.


Thank you much! I'll give you call this upcoming week! :thumbsup:


----------



## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

*I believe!*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.
> 
> A hoax I am not.
> 
> ...


Tom I've met you before a couple times and you are very approachable, friendly, and helpful - as really knowledgeable techies always are. You are no poseur; you are a total shock expert.

I'm sorry for my late apology for my mistake of "smelling a hoax", haven't been here in Shocks for a few days, but your first few posts just seemed too loose and easy going for a typical entry-level semi-informed new tech support person we normally get on the phone for any brand.

I want to extend a huge welcome to these forums!


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

*Zocchi 55 ETA Question*

hi zocchi tech dude 

cool thread, it's appreciated.

i just got some 55 ETA's for my 06 Foes FXR 2:1. back in the day i ran with Z2's and Z1 BAM's on my M2 Stumpy, 02 Monster's on my Bullit, and 05 AM2's on my Heckler. great forks! i hammered the proverbial out them for years with only a very occaisional change of oil, and never had a single issue with any of 'em, ever. just for something different i went with 06 Fox 36 Talas (what POS forks!) and am now back with tried and true zocchi's.

1. anyway, when i move the red TST knob i get a horrible 'grating' sound that feels quite rough. it's definately a metal on metal sound/feel, or aluminium on aluminium to be precise. izat normal? also, the red TST knob seems a little 'loose', as does the rebound knob.

2. how many positions should the red TST knob arrive at? i get 4 distinct stops, when the sticker demonstrating usage clearly has 3; 'CL' - 'AM' - 'DS'. what does 'CL' stand for anyway? italiano for 'XC'?

3. what is the PSI range for the air preload? i see the 'Table 7' on page 9 of the manual referring to air pressures, but nothing specifically about the TSTmicro/TST2 cartridge. to be frank, the user manual basically reads as a legalistic product disclaimer designed to deflect liability, and those damn orange stickers on the fork look gay and are soooo hard to peel off.

4. how come the ETA on this fork only reduces travel by 40mm? that surprised me, 'cause the ETA on my 05 AM2's drops down like 4 inches and is really handy for steep ascents. i love it.

please regard my criticism as constructive feedback from an ardent fan who's motivation is keeping 'The Big M' ahead of the pack, where their superior products belong.

thanks for your help :thumbsup:


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## blackagness (Mar 1, 2005)

Marz tech guy, you rock! Your confidence gives me confidence. :thumbsup:


Cause so far you seem to exude competence. :smilewinkgrin:


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

m0ngy said:


> hi zocchi tech dude


I'm not the tech dude, but I can answer a few simple questions:

The TST is supposed to have 5 positions. These are determined by a funny starfish-shaped plastic dongle under the TST knob. It sort of rubs the cassette tool splines under the knob, and is a chintzy approximation of a spring and ball detent system. It will always feel vague ime. The TST knob also "floats" on the adjuster rod. It is not held in place by anything other than the gold TST Micro knob above it, and the lever can slide up and down on its adjuster rod if there is any room below the gold knob. I would cut some quarter-sized donut-shaped plastic shims out of a soda bottle to eat up the extra space (under the TST lever). That's what I did. It keeps the TST lever from rattling too.

If you want to see what's going on with the knobs, use a 2mm allen (?) to remove the grub screw on the TST Micro knob, and you can lift the other bits off the fork easily.

Zocchi tech dude can handle the hard ones.


----------



## caesari (May 13, 2007)

Hi Marzocchi Tech Department,

I got a problem with a Marathon Corsa SL WC 100mm. it is a 6 weeks old.

First it was set up at 45 top and 75 bottom, but the travel never god more than 80mm, so it was deflated to see is it was a 100mm fork. It was a 100mm. but then it was try with different air pressures to see if the travel could get to at least 95mm and it never did. 3 days ago the travel was reduced to 55mm and it never could go more than 55mm.

Can you tell me how to fix it?

Thanks!!!!


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

hey tscheezy,  

i undid the lil gold cap and took out the 'dongle' underneath. farkenel, since when did zocchi start making forks out of funny starfish-shaped plastic dongles and chintzy approximations, huh? simple is always best for reliability, but there is a limit...

i'll definitely implement some of those soda bottle shims you've suggested. i guess the shims would help prevent the TST lever from moving around during the ride, like changing valve positions.

thanks for your help man! :thumbsup:


----------



## Clutchman83 (Apr 16, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> RS has probs too and so does FOX. Feel free to step out into the darkside (or into the light) and give it a try.


They have their problems, but nothing like the TST issues. That damper is the reason I won't buy from you guys again.



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> On this site it seems like I can count the TST probs with my fingers (not my toes) The percentage is very small.


I don't think you figured out how to use the search function properly...

Sorry, I understand this isn't the kinds of posts you want so I don't expect a response. Just thought it was strange that you guys are so dismissive of something that many of us have experienced and been burned by.


----------



## Gonz (Feb 8, 2004)

*07 66SL1 ATA left leg air problem*

perhaps you could provide advice on this problem with a 07 66SL1.

The left leg: I put a pump on the lower valve, and another pump on the upper valve. So I can see the pressure in both chambers.

As I pressurize the lower valve, say up to 30 psi, then stop pumping, its pressure will slowly decay, at the same time pressure builds in the upper chamber. If I go up to 60 psi in the lower, it again slowly drops off, while the upper increases. The two seem to equalize at about a 20 psi differential - the lower stabilizing at about 20 psi greater than the upper.

The other thing, if I pump the lower beyond 80 psi, there is a sudden "pop" sound from within the left leg, accompanied by a very rapid drop in pressure to about 20 psi.

virtually brand new fork - it was a OEM take-off from a new bike.


----------



## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Gonz said:


> perhaps you could provide advice on this problem with a 07 66SL1.
> 
> The left leg: I put a pump on the lower valve, and another pump on the upper valve. So I can see the pressure in both chambers.
> 
> ...


It sounds like air is migrating from the PAR chamber to the main (SFA) chamber. 
An inspection of the ATA cartridge is in order. It could just be an o-ring on the par piston or the ATA cartridge could have an issue like an internal scratch or something. You could just remove the PAR piston and eliminate the PAR chamber altogether.

Either way someone needs to look at the ATA cartridge.


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

is the TSTmicro/TST2 system as supposedly problematic as the original TST, as implied from this forum?  
me thinks i might have to take the preventitive step of swapping-out my 55 ETA TSTmicro system for some good 'ol elastomers. perhaps i could use a corkscrew to pull cores out of my futon... 

LOLOLOL, i bet the zocchi tech guy is ruing the day he invited us to b!tch about his products... no offence intended.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Official answer*



m0ngy said:


> hi zocchi tech dude
> 
> cool thread, it's appreciated.
> 
> ...


It's the detent mechanism. It gets better over time but you can remove it and add a little grease to the tri shaped plastic part. It rubs in the spline socket of the top cap. You can take the sloop out of the red knob by adding a small 13mm OD x 8mmID spring shim, crease the shim and it will acts as a wave washer when you install the gold cap you can create tension on the red knob eliminating the rattle.



> 2. how many positions should the red TST knob arrive at? i get 4 distinct stops, when the sticker demonstrating usage clearly has 3; 'CL' - 'AM' - 'DS'. what does 'CL' stand for anyway? italiano for 'XC'?


It should be 5 positions. The "CL" stands for climbing. The sticker is more of a guide as to which way to turn the knob to get the effect you want. It's a basic guideline sticker.



> 3. what is the PSI range for the air preload? i see the 'Table 7' on page 9 of the manual referring to air pressures, but nothing specifically about the TSTmicro/TST2 cartridge. to be frank, the user manual basically reads as a legalistic product disclaimer designed to deflect liability, and those damn orange stickers on the fork look gay and are soooo hard to peel off.


If you mean air pressure inside the TST cartridge, it is low, 15psi maximum. TST micro has none. 
The air preload refers to the spring side. It's range is with a coil spring 0-15psi and without a coil spring it's 0-55psi.

Take a hair dryer and heat up those orange stickers they'll come right off



> 4. how come the ETA on this fork only reduces travel by 40mm? that surprised me, 'cause the ETA on my 05 AM2's drops down like 4 inches and is really handy for steep ascents. i love it.


You might need to add oil to your ETA side. It sounds like it is not filled enough to give you full ETA function. Just pop the top cap and add 5-10cc's and try it again.



> please regard my criticism as constructive feedback from an ardent fan who's motivation is keeping 'The Big M' ahead of the pack, where their superior products belong.
> 
> thanks for your help :thumbsup:


We try! :thumbsup:


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Clutchman83 said:


> They have their problems, but nothing like the TST issues. That damper is the reason I won't buy from you guys again.
> 
> I don't think you figured out how to use the search function properly...
> 
> Sorry, I understand this isn't the kinds of posts you want so I don't expect a response. Just thought it was strange that you guys are so dismissive of something that many of us have experienced and been burned by.


We see the problems and I can see it without being here. I just want to help people here. The "big picture" is right in our face everyday :madman:

I really was hoping to just be able to refer people here to call us.

If you don't like the TST system, the RC3 system is the cats meow!!!

Have a great day!!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

caesari said:


> Hi Marzocchi Tech Department,
> 
> I got a problem with a Marathon Corsa SL WC 100mm. it is a 6 weeks old.
> 
> ...


Yikes! Sounds like you have an issue with your ATA. DO me a favor and call our tech department. The fork will have to be shipped back to us for repair. We will turn it around as quick as humanly possible. By doing this we will be able to inspect the entire fork and all the components to make sure it is spot on.

Sorry for the trouble.

661-257-6630


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We see the problems and I can see it without being here. I just want to help people here. The "big picture" is right in our face everyday :madman:
> 
> I really was hoping to just be able to refer people here to call us.
> 
> ...


Is RC3 offered in the 55 series?

Many here have converted their AM's to RC2's due to the problems. Your mention of how I solved my problem by selling my AM is not the right way to approach the customers if you want to be genuine. I am likely thinking the reason you're here under this particular screen name is because of such posts as "Zoke: Just Say No", reflecting the massive issues people are having with Zoke, and the bad press you're seeing. The problems aren't limited to the product, but sometimes waiting MONTHS with the fork in the service deparment to be turned around. In fact, even dealers are reporting here the problems with the forks.

In my case, which you told me I solved my own problem, yes, I solved my own problem by getting rid of a fork with six rides *for a loss* due to a massively flawed design. That's not a solution to a problem, and I don't appreciate beta testing. I don't make much money, and I like to get as much as possible for it.

What I'm trying to raise is that customers should not be looked at as a liability, as indicated in the last post to me. Much of what you're receiving now is because people are biting their tongues, believe it or not. People want to know why everything is happening and why they should by Zoke again at this point, especially since manufacturing has moved to Taiwan and prices have not dropped, but quality has. Additionally, Zoke doesn't have a good face around here to the customer base because of the previous behavior or Brian Peterson, as mentioned, though he is no longer at Zoke, thankfully. You mentioned the same thing that Brian did and that was basically picking up your toys and leaving the forums. Brian did the exact same thing, and people have not forgotten.

If you're here on goodwill, take it all in, good and bad, because it will make everyone's life a lot better. Many, including myself, would like to have Zoke as a viable option again, but many are jumping ship, and treatment by the company has always been one factor. If a product is not going to work right, many are willing to chance with Rock Shox, and get treated like gold when they have a problem.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

*shims*



tscheezy said:


> I'm not the tech dude, but I can answer a few simple questions:
> 
> I would cut some quarter-sized donut-shaped plastic shims out of a soda bottle to eat up the extra space (under the TST lever). That's what I did.
> 
> i, myself, would suggest using a soda ''CAN'', as it is far easier material to work w/ as opposed to glass that is used in the manufacturing of bottles.


----------



## tungjoi (Nov 29, 2007)

is the TST micro only to be used for climbing, or can i add slight compression and ride normal trails with it on all the time?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tungjoi said:


> is the TST micro only to be used for climbing, or can i add slight compression and ride normal trails with it on all the time?


The TST Micro is a climbing and descending feature. The last position (the firmest) is a climbing feature esspecially if you have the micro knob in the maximum position. If you back it off the micro knob all the way (like I do) it works like a nice compression feature even in the firmest setting.

TST2 is more limited in it's function. I would recommend using TST2 as only a climbing OR descending feature. on or off. TST2 doesn't have a nice blow-off compression. TST micro does.

Have fun!!!!


----------



## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

*Wrong thread*

Dumb forum software can't hold a thread together.


----------



## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

*Huh?*



fsrxc said:


> a day late?


I posted within hours of the OP...

Edit: Please don't be a hater.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

derby said:


> Dumb forum software can't hold a thread together.


I've noticed


----------



## derby (Jan 12, 2004)

*great effort !*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I've noticed


Tom,
It's really a great effort you are doing here. Brian Peterson was very helpful on this forum for many years. I can see how he'd get burned out and quit after hearing and dealing with problems and customer frustrations day after day.

Hopefully, you can find someone else so dedicated to last many years again and be able to provide high quality tech support even on internet forums as well as he did.

Well trained knowledgeable and quick turnaround tech support is the key to gaining brand loyalty and the best promotion. Once lost it takes even longer to regain.

Double Thumbs up! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## WaveDude (Jan 14, 2004)

SamL3227 said:


> i have a 05 66R that came stock on my 05 sxt. it is set at 150mm travel, i was under the impression all i had to do was move some shims around inside or get different shims. is that all i have to do to get it up to 170mm?
> 
> also, what other cartriges can i put it in replace the one ssv thats in it now.


This is what you need: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/66traveladjustment.pdf

Be very careful removing the top-cap and jam-nut from the cartridge.


----------



## tungjoi (Nov 29, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The TST Micro is a climbing and descending feature. The last position (the firmest) is a climbing feature esspecially if you have the micro knob in the maximum position. If you back it off the micro knob all the way (like I do) it works like a nice compression feature even in the firmest setting.
> 
> TST2 is more limited in it's function. I would recommend using TST2 as only a climbing OR descending feature. on or off. TST2 doesn't have a nice blow-off compression. TST micro does.
> 
> Have fun!!!!


that's what i was hoping ... i use the micro to tune in just a little compression, and then flick the red switch to the CL position, and it feels great, just wanted to make sure descending with it wasn't gonna hurt anything ... it's even cooler than i thought it was ... haha


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## dascro (Apr 1, 2007)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Is RC3 offered in the 55 series?
> 
> Many here have converted their AM's to RC2's due to the problems. Your mention of how I solved my problem by selling my AM is not the right way to approach the customers if you want to be genuine. I am likely thinking the reason you're here under this particular screen name is because of such posts as "Zoke: Just Say No", reflecting the massive issues people are having with Zoke, and the bad press you're seeing. The problems aren't limited to the product, but sometimes waiting MONTHS with the fork in the service deparment to be turned around. In fact, even dealers are reporting here the problems with the forks.
> 
> ...


Good points. I was a little disturbed with the reply you got from the Marz rep here. I am in the market for a new fork. I am planning on dumping a huge amount of my hard earned dollars on a fork and right now I am hard pressed to get a good review about a Marz fork. Yes fox has their problems, RS does and so does Manitou. But the latest crop of Marz forks are just too much of a crap shoot to spend several months of my disposable income on.

Solving our own problems is very possible for many here. But when you drop several hundred dollars you aren't expecting to have problems in the short term. I don't want to have to work on the fork doing self engineered modifications. And to say that selling a fork solves the problems is really offensive.

I lately have had great experiences with Rockshox and will probably go that direction again. I think fox is overpriced but they and manitou are my next choice. You get a generally positive review of all those products on this site. Ask about a marz and the general consensus is stay away from them. I would love to have Marz as a viable choice but at this time, it obviously is not that case.

To sum it all up here is the consensus of marz. Buy at your own risk, expect to have to open it up and check oil levels etc. There is a good chance of you having to send it back, pay shipping and be weeks without your +700$ fork. That is the reality and denying it isn't going to change anything.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*It was your headset race making the creak.*



tscheezy said:


> The axle size is most definitely different than the axles from my Z1 FR1 and my 66SL. I tried a Chris King, WTB Laserdisc DH, DT FR440, and Hope Pro II (yep, _ALL _my 20mm hubs ) and when I slide the 55's axle through, I can get noticably more slop than the axles from my Z1 or 66 produce (when I just check for play with the axle in the hub but not installed in a fork). I never had play with my other forks.
> 
> I tried to eliminate the headset as an issue also, and once I got back to Alaska the creaking diminished, but it was pretty gnarly on our road trip in Utah. It seems like a humidity thing as things will creak on me in the desert that never creak at home.
> 
> ...


The fork is out of here today. I found the creak! It was your lower race. It had no grease on it from installation and I could actually see friction wear marks on the crown and race. It was an oxidized mark. I removed the race, cleaned the parts, greased the race press area and the ID and reinstalled the race. You should be good to go. King headsets rule!!

As far as the lowers, Black is badarse!! Only issue was the graphic. Since we don't actually make a Black 55 ATA for aftermarket we don't carry the sticker. However our graphics guy has a set of 55 ATA2 stickers, Same sticker it just says ATA2. I threw in the white stickers just in case you want to run those. It looks kinda cool like that too. Now you have the option.

I also added a spring shim under your TST micro knob to tighten up the red knob so it won't rattle.

Put your set-up sticker on the new fork.

You should be dialed!!!

You were in the mix with me prepping Kathy Pruitt's new forks and shocks and John Cowan's rear shock set-up, what company you are keeping!!! I had to move Brian Lopes 2007 worlds bike to use my bench too. (gratuitous name dropping for your amusment )

Let me know how it works when you get it back. 
Cheers,

TR


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Sa-weetness. :thumbsup:


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## JSpecialized (Apr 6, 2008)

I recently purchased a 600 sl ata. The new fork makes a clicking sound and clicking feel when compressed. It feels like it is from the left fork. What would cause the clicking and how do we fix it?


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## Clutchman83 (Apr 16, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> If you don't like the TST system, the RC3 system is the cats meow!!!
> 
> Have a great day!!


Care to hook a brother up :ihih: ! My AM1 has been a paperweight for a little over a year now and I have actually had my eye on an RC2 cart out of a 66. Just not sure if I need _three_ forks in this travel range since I sprung for a Wotan after the AM1 fiasco and I still have my old Nixon kicking around.

I just want to say that I really appreciate what your doing here as well. Having a rep who who will discuss this stuff is the kind of thing that makes me want to stand behind a company. The advice that has been dispensed so far is head and shoulders above what I'd expected from Zoke after my last experience so it's good to see you guys doin your thang.


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## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

Hi Tom:

Hi had a problem with my 08' 66 ATA fork, I went over torqued an broke one internal, I called your guys and Kevin Scott told me about the part, should be the 556833-R shaft air ATA, is the part which connect the top schrader valve in the ATA side (right side) of the 66 ATA 1.5 2008 fork, is an aluminum piece with two different outer diameters and three small squared offset in top and bottom. The thing is I paid for the part and they sent to me, but this was more than 1 month ago, I'm from Venezuela I know that this take a while, but not more that one month, I sent an e-mail again to Kevin last week and he told that there was a mistake, so the part was somewhere in Argentina!!!... well patience and again I wrote to Kevin yesterday to know if he could find the part there and send it here to Venezuela, but no answers. Maybe he is out of the office, the thing is that my frame arrived and I want o build it, but the only missing part for finish it, is the ATA shaft. I want to try ride next week. I has been out of the trail for more than one month. There is any way that I can pay for the part again and any there send it via DHL, UPS or Fed Ex, any express fast shipper, not the USPS please!!!!...

Tom, let me know if you can contact to Kevin or write me any words of hope, there is one brand new bike in parts, fork and frame and only need that part to ride it!!!

Many thanks for the help and glad to know that Marzocchi is Listening the riders!!


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## Dirt_Dog (Sep 21, 2007)

.....................................................


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

JSpecialized said:


> I recently purchased a 600 sl ata. The new fork makes a clicking sound and clicking feel when compressed. It feels like it is from the left fork. What would cause the clicking and how do we fix it?


does it sound like tick, tick, tick????   
I would have to hear it for myself or have more details.

Have you ridden the fork much? Did you break it in/

Did you set the lower air valve AND the upper air valve pressures? Lower air valve first.

Sorry I don't have a suggestion....


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I got out the whipping stick!*



fabricio fracchia said:


> Hi Tom:
> 
> Hi had a problem with my 08' 66 ATA fork, I went over torqued an broke one internal, I called your guys and Kevin Scott told me about the part, should be the 556833-R shaft air ATA, is the part which connect the top schrader valve in the ATA side (right side) of the 66 ATA 1.5 2008 fork, is an aluminum piece with two different outer diameters and three small squared offset in top and bottom. The thing is I paid for the part and they sent to me, but this was more than 1 month ago, I'm from Venezuela I know that this take a while, but not more that one month, I sent an e-mail again to Kevin last week and he told that there was a mistake, so the part was somewhere in Argentina!!!... well patience and again I wrote to Kevin yesterday to know if he could find the part there and send it here to Venezuela, but no answers. Maybe he is out of the office, the thing is that my frame arrived and I want o build it, but the only missing part for finish it, is the ATA shaft. I want to try ride next week. I has been out of the trail for more than one month. There is any way that I can pay for the part again and any there send it via DHL, UPS or Fed Ex, any express fast shipper, not the USPS please!!!!...
> 
> ...


I went over to sales and cracked the whip! He should be sending it ASAP. Sorry for the problems.


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## blackagness (Mar 1, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I went over to sales and cracked the whip! He should be sending it ASAP. Sorry for the problems.


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I went over to sales and cracked the whip! He should be sending it ASAP. Sorry for the problems.


good one! :thumbsup:


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## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

Yeap thanks TOM!!!!!!

they replied to my e-mail..!!!! Kevin spoke there in the office to his boss and some partners, they are sending again the part without no charge!!!...I can ride my new bike soon with my sleeping next to me 66 brand new fork!!!!..... I will bother anyway in a while when I receive it about the oil levels and some small advises....jejejeeje.

Many thanks again to Kevin, Tom and all there in Marzocchi

I own some beers to all there friends!!!!!!!

See you boys!


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## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

*Ready!!!!*



crisillo said:


> good one! :thumbsup:


Yeap thanks TOM!!!!!!

they replied to my e-mail..!!!! Kevin spoke there in the office to his boss and some partners, they are sending again the part without no charge!!!...I can ride my new bike soon with my sleeping next to me 66 brand new fork!!!!..... I will bother anyway in a while when I receive it about the oil levels and some small advises....jejejeeje.

Many thanks again to Kevin, Tom and all there in Marzocchi

I own some beers to all there friends!!!!!!!

See you boys! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Hey Tom I THINK I sent you an email last week about some Roco/888 tuning stuff, but my email server is acting funny and I don't know if it went through...take a look whenever you get a chance.

Thanks man!


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## CragRat (Feb 15, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That looks like mostly the pigment in the tube is wearing off whichs means the stanchion has wear too. As soon as the anodize is worn all the way through it will need to be replaced, perferably prior to this happening. That anodize layer is like the shell of an egg, once it is worn through it looses a majority of it's strength. Normal wear and tear.
> 
> Try to keep the stanchions clean of dry mud and built up dirt. A simple wipe down prior to riding each day (or run) will increase it's life. A simple whip off with your glove prior to dropping in helps.
> 
> It bet your fork is buttery....NICE!


Did'nt happen on the brown anodized ones...


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## thebronze (Jan 13, 2004)

Hey Tom, do you know if there is a way to limit the travel on a 2004 Z1 qr20? Its the only fork i've found that doesnt flex for me. I need something around 115 or 120mm travel. Maybe an ata cart on the left side?

Also, I know its been said before, but some of us old schoolers dont want TST. We want hscv or rc3 with open carts for tuning. I'd prefer a shim kit where I could crack her open and monkey a bit.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

thebronze said:


> Also, I know its been said before, but some of us old schoolers dont want TST. We want hscv or rc3 with open carts for tuning. I'd prefer a shim kit where I could crack her open and monkey a bit.


Count me in.

I'm 140#, so finding a good set-up from a factory set suspension component is kinda hard.

I'm also of the idea that HSCV is (was) superior to the TST. I've ridden both in the same fork, so I think I made an honest comparison.

Put RC3 carts into 55's (or any fork with more than 120mm of travel) and you'll not be able to keep up with production...


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## mudhut (Jul 24, 2007)

*2006 xc 700 sl ata tuning*

Hi Tom,

Hope you can help me with my '06 XC Retro 700 sl I've got two issues:

1. There is considerable play moving forward and back in the bushings, and some play but not nearly as drastic to the sides. I had sent it back to Marz., they claim the bushings were replaced, but hasn't improved. Very noticeable when compressing the first inch or two-feels sloppy, then it gets better. Really notice it when breaking. Not crazy about sending it back for another 6 weeks of waiting...without a bike. Any suggestions or ideas as to what is wrong?

2. I've been trying to get my fork tuned for my weight/riding, but the numbers seem to be way off in the manual. If I go with the manual's recommendation--setting the negative pressure, then the positive, then adjusting the positive for sag, it is way too stiff, even if I slow the rebound as much as possible. Might as well have a rigid fork. Seems to be better when I put about 170 in the lower, neg chamber, then only 80 or so in the top. But if I do that, I will never use anywhere near the amount of travel available. I weigh 185 and mostly ride smooth xc trails interspersed with baby head stones.


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## arctic303 (Sep 27, 2006)

I'm sure anyone here can answer this:-

I've got a 55 TST2, what tool do I need to undo the top nut on the left (coil) side? Want to order one online but no idea what to search for.


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## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

All I want to know is why the forks are shipped with little or no oil. It is such a simple task, filling the forks, but yet, it is NEVER right. Every new Zoke fork must be cracked open and filled. To me, how well you can complete even the simpliest task, is a measure of how the overall product is. Attention to detail, not profits.


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## JSpecialized (Apr 6, 2008)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpecialized
I recently purchased a 600 sl ata. The new fork makes a clicking sound and clicking feel when compressed. It feels like it is from the left fork. What would cause the clicking and how do we fix it? 



does it sound like tick, tick, tick???? 
I would have to hear it for myself or have more details.

Have you ridden the fork much? Did you break it in/

Did you set the lower air valve AND the upper air valve pressures? Lower air valve first. 

Sorry I don't have a suggestion....



Sorry I should have figured you would want more info. The sound/clicking was imediate no chance to break in fork...did not want to cause damage if something wrong. The rep I am using has sent it back and I will wait for his reply. Just thought it might be a common issue with a new fork not being built correctly ect.


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## Mr.P (Feb 8, 2005)

sodak06 said:


> All I want to know is why the forks are shipped with little or no oil. It is such a simple task, filling the forks, but yet, it is NEVER right. Every new Zoke fork must be cracked open and filled. To me, how well you can complete even the simpliest task, is a measure of how the overall product is. Attention to detail, not profits.


Unfortunately that seems to be the case for ALL fork manufacturers. There are numerous examples in these forums.

P


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

arctic303 said:


> I'm sure anyone here can answer this:-
> 
> I've got a 55 TST2, what tool do I need to undo the top nut on the left (coil) side? Want to order one online but no idea what to search for.


Try a cassette lockring tool.


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## arctic303 (Sep 27, 2006)

Nagaredama said:


> Try a cassette lockring tool.


That looks like the one - thanks :thumbsup:


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## PRelHacko (Dec 12, 2007)

*Question abput an 07 All Mountain 1 -Manual discrepancy?*

Hi Marzocchi tech,

I have been toying with the idea of lowering an '07 All Mountain 1. On page 79 of the bomber-07 manual (table 6) it states that the All Mountain I and II have "available" travels of 140 -160. Mine is currently set as a 160 but I would prefer a 140, but don't know how to do this. Is it an optional version of the fork...? or a kit..? Or can I rearrange some spacers inside the left leg to alter the default length..? or is it just a typo...

Sure would like to know..Thanks

-PRelHacko


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## sam-eye-am (Jun 30, 2004)

*I'll add a question too...*

I have an 06 All Mountain 1. Haven't ridden that bike in about 2 or 3 weeks. Though it was prudent to check the air pressure as it seems that every time I don't ride the bike at least 2x a week, the fork gets soft and I have to add some air. Well, my shock pump failed while adding air and let all of the air out. Picked up a new pump and aired up the fork. It holds air, but now the TST function is essentially useless. No difference in fork feel in any of the positions. I pumped it up to 50 psi indicated.

FWIW, I have an 05 AM1 that does the same thing and have been intending on calling you guys up to see about getting that one serviced to have a ready spare...


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## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

Hi Tom:

Can you help me with the oil volume for the 66 ATA 2008 fork?... there say that the oil volume as per manual is 305 ml in the right leg, but when I took apart the cartridge there was only an small amount of oil, (the fork is brand new, never used yet). and that seems it's a lot of oil compared to what came out from the bottom. I need to reassembly the ATA cartridge and know the oil volume to ride my fork for first time, yeap!!
Many thanks for all the help here in the forum and there to the guys in Marzocchi USA.

Regards


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

sodak06 said:


> All I want to know is why the forks are shipped with little or no oil. It is such a simple task, filling the forks, but yet, it is NEVER right. Every new Zoke fork must be cracked open and filled. To me, how well you can complete even the simpliest task, is a measure of how the overall product is. Attention to detail, not profits.




Interesting question, and hope the factories address it, whatever part of the world they are in.

FWIW, I jumped ship to Fox after spending nearly ten years on Zokes. I was shocked to find that my 36 was devoid of bath oil, and others are stepping forward and reporting the same thing. It's not only limited to Zoke.


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## GTV8 (May 5, 2006)

Hello Marz Tech....quick question, about how many clicks of rebound should there be on an 08' Roco TST R coil. Towards the close position I can start to feel resistance in the knob but there appears to still be clicks available. I just don't want to turn too far but want to know the range of adjustment I have. Thanks.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mudhut said:


> Hi Tom,
> 
> Hope you can help me with my '06 XC Retro 700 sl I've got two issues:
> 
> ...


Yeah, the manual is still wrong. I hope the Italians get on here and read this stuff. We sent a new chart for air pressures for months....glad to see they are not updating the manual. :madman: 
Here's the basics for setting up ATA.

Set the bottom air pressure first. It is positive pressure and is for the bottom-out resistance. 
The range is 100-140psi. For you weight I'd start at around 125psi.

Next fill the top positive chamber, this effects the beginning of the stroke. The range is 30-90psi. 
For your weight I would try about 50. If you want it stiffer off the top add to the top valve. If you are not getting full travel, lower the bottom pressures. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 100psi in the bottom and don't run the same pressure top and bottom.

Send me a PM about your bushing issue. I need more info.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Hey Mr. Marzocchi Man,
First time poster, long time lurker, 

No really. 
Many owners of the 07' 66SL ATA don't realize that lowering their forks to 140mm drastically reduces BO protection. This as you know is due to the fact that the ATA piston is not quite engaging the PAR piston and chamber. Lots of riders are lowering travel for dirt jumping and bottoming out hard. 

My opinion is that the only way to increase BO protection @ 140mm is to max psi out in the PAR chamber in order to try to keep it from moving as the main piston approaches it. This will allow the SFA chambers pressure to ramp up progressively. But i really don't think this would be much more effective since as pressures build in the SFA, they force the PAR piston to move before the piston even hits it. I don't think max PAR pressure is enough to help.
I have come to the conclusion that the only way to give a reduced travel 66sl ATA good BO resistance would be to remove the floating PAR piston and put a dense foam plug into the PAR chamber area to reduce the extra 40mm of volume. Oh and this mod would be semi permanent. 

I have come to believe that the PAR feature is flawed and needs to be decoupled from the SFA chamber. I doubt this is possible. I feel that the complex dynamic between the PAR and SFA chambers causes too many problems. Some users have removed the PAR piston altogether. I think BOprotection needs to come from another way. Maybe enlarge the volume of the PAr to make it less progressive. Lots of users complain they cannot BO their fork at 180mm. And if you reduce PAR pressure you change the SFA by design. Not pressure per se but progressivity. 

Is there no way to use the fork leg chamber for the main air spring and use a cartridge for BO protection? Similar in design to the X cartridge on the RC2X. 


Thanks for your input.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

wormvine said:


> Is there no way to use the fork leg chamber for the main air spring and use a cartridge for BO protection? Similar in design to the X cartridge on the RC2X.
> 
> Thanks for your input.


That'd be a Doppio Air.

What was wrong with old oil level BO protection? Yeah, it was not "on the fly" but it was basically a no-brainer and everybody could get a happy medium.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

wormvine said:


> Hey Mr. Marzocchi Man,
> First time poster, long time lurker,
> 
> No really.
> Many owners of the 07' 66SL ATA don't realize that lowering their forks to 140mm drastically reduces BO protection. This as you know is due to the fact that the ATA piston is not quite engaging the PAR piston and chamber. Lots of riders are lowering travel for dirt jumping and bottoming out hard.


Really?:skep: I am going to be long winded now....

I think it would be better to just set the PAR chamber at a lower number (125-130), then set the top pressure to keep you from bottoming. It's a dual rate air spring. I know this sounds backwards but you need to increase the "overall" rate.

I hear what you are saying though. I have issues were I want it to be plush at the 160mm position but when I have it cranked down to 120mm and want to get out of the saddle and have a stiff fork. I end up setting it stiffer (more top psi) when it's in the long travel mode to compensate for when I wind it down. FYI, air is a beast to work with.

My suggestion, Just set it at your favorite travel and set the spring rate as perfered. Everything else will just have to follow.



wormvine said:


> My opinion is that the only way to increase BO protection @ 140mm is to max psi out in the PAR chamber in order to try to keep it from moving as the main piston approaches it. This will allow the SFA chambers pressure to ramp up progressively. But i really don't think this would be much more effective since as pressures build in the SFA, they force the PAR piston to move before the piston even hits it. I don't think max PAR pressure is enough to help.


It is a dual rate air spring. both main piston and PAR pistons work together, they always move together. There is no way the main piston and the PAR piston can touch. They will build a pressure between them that will always exceed either main or PAR. The stiffer the spring air the harder it is to get maximum travel from all ATA's. It's not meant to be rigid except for a big hit.



wormvine said:


> I have come to the conclusion that the only way to give a reduced travel 66sl ATA good BO resistance would be to remove the floating PAR piston and put a dense foam plug into the PAR chamber area to reduce the extra 40mm of volume. Oh and this mod would be semi permanent.


If you only want a 130mm ATA cartridge you can just add a little oil to the top chamber and you can lose the second piston too if you want. That works pretty nice too but then the air chamber is considerably larger in volume. You will bottom out unless you add oil to the main chamber.

Remember in design it has to work for multiple people and styles. These ideas I just gave you are just to dial the fork for one travel and type of riding.



wormvine said:


> I have come to believe that the PAR feature is flawed and needs to be decoupled from the SFA chamber. I doubt this is possible. I feel that the complex dynamic between the PAR and SFA chambers causes too many problems. Some users have removed the PAR piston altogether. I think BOprotection needs to come from another way. Maybe enlarge the volume of the PAr to make it less progressive. Lots of users complain they cannot BO their fork at 180mm. And if you reduce PAR pressure you change the SFA by design. Not pressure per se but progressivity.


First we get **** for the forks bottoming out and now we get **** cause they won't. 

To "decouple", just remove center shaft, cord and PAR piston completely, seal hole into upper rod (main air piston). Add 25mm of a solid to tweak the air spring curve, oh fun. (oil ok, delrin better)
Use the lower air valve only (another reason to use delrin, oil fills your pump) Now it's a single chamber. Progressivity of pressure by volume....it is top out, main spring and bottom-out control. Great DJ setting at 130 travel!!! 160psi.

Personally, I like to bottom out every once and a while (once a ride) and I rarely do but I get 95% most rides. From my experience, all our forks can be bottomed. Sometimes it is extreme to be able to but they can.



wormvine said:


> Is there no way to use the fork leg chamber for the main air spring and use a cartridge for BO protection? Similar in design to the X cartridge on the RC2X.


If you have RC3 you can remove the second piston in the ATA and use the oil hieght on the RC3 (damping side) to control progressivity AND bottoming. My personal favorite, better than the previous suggestion....BUT, it's heavy.

Thanks for your input.[/QUOTE]

:thumbsup:


----------



## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Warp said:


> That'd be a Doppio Air.
> 
> What was wrong with old oil level BO protection? Yeah, it was not "on the fly" but it was basically a no-brainer and everybody could get a happy medium.


Did that come in the 06' 66SL? How does the oil prevent BO? Is it just due to interference per se?


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> First we get **** for the forks bottoming out and now we get **** cause they won't.


Hey man, 
I really appreciate your answers. Very insightful and funny. You def know your shiznit.
I am sorry to hit you on both sides of the complaint spectrum. I actually did BO my 66sl ATA once casing a jump. Only once though. I ran 55/100 with 0 in RC2. 
I also fixed winddown beautifully by modifying the ATA top cap with a pin to key into the cassette tool grooves. To change travel, I just pulled the cap off a little bit. Worked like a charm.
But I digress. 
Thanks again!

Just a thought, could you add some sort of a high pressure tube that screws onto the PAR valve that would change the volume of the PAR chamber. Almost like a remote reservoir but with no reservoir. Huh?!


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## JoeDesperado (Feb 5, 2006)

I too got some ATA-questions:

1.) is ATA really only meant as a mechanism to tweak the A/C-length of the fork to perform best with various frames? at least that's what many people here at mtbr say, and that it's NOT like (air-) U-turn found on some rock shox forks. in short: is it problematic to use ATA on my '07 66 SL ATA multiple times during a ride, without getting off the bike, as a travel adjust?

2.) I know that the PAR-pressure on my 66 should always be higher than the ATA-pressure, but how big is the minimum difference? 5 psi? 20?

thanks :thumbsup:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Turn it by hand only*



GTV8 said:


> Hello Marz Tech....quick question, about how many clicks of rebound should there be on an 08' Roco TST R coil. Towards the close position I can start to feel resistance in the knob but there appears to still be clicks available. I just don't want to turn too far but want to know the range of adjustment I have. Thanks.


You should be able to keep turning the knob until you feel a hard stop. It sounds like you are barely into the adjustment range of the rebound adjuster. Normally the shocks should have about 20 clicks but it's not an exact number to to tolerence stack up of parts.

As long as you are turning it with your hand you won't have to worry about break it.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

fabricio fracchia said:


> Hi Tom:
> 
> Can you help me with the oil volume for the 66 ATA 2008 fork?... there say that the oil volume as per manual is 305 ml in the right leg, but when I took apart the cartridge there was only an small amount of oil, (the fork is brand new, never used yet). and that seems it's a lot of oil compared to what came out from the bottom. I need to reassembly the ATA cartridge and know the oil volume to ride my fork for first time, yeap!!
> Many thanks for all the help here in the forum and there to the guys in Marzocchi USA.
> ...


Oil volume for the ATA side of a 08 66 is 50cc's
The other side is an RC3 cartridge and will need 305ml / cc's. Make sure you check it by hieght too. The oil hieght (fully compressed) is 60-65mm from the top of the stanchion.


----------



## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

Joe, I've a 07 66 SL1 and i've a couple comments...

1) While I don't tend to use it much in Texas, I found myself going between 7- and 6-inch travel with surprising frequency on some of the riding I've done out of state. No problems. I've gotten to the point I can do it w/o getting off the bike.

2) I've always read that PAR should be 30psi or more than SFA.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

JoeDesperado said:


> I too got some ATA-questions:
> 
> 1.) is ATA really only meant as a mechanism to tweak the A/C-length of the fork to perform best with various frames? at least that's what many people here at mtbr say, and that it's NOT like (air-) U-turn found on some rock shox forks. in short: is it problematic to use ATA on my '07 66 SL ATA multiple times during a ride, without getting off the bike, as a travel adjust?


It is an on the fly adjuster that can be used on the bike. You do not have to get off your bike to use it.



JoeDesperado said:


> 2.) I know that the PAR-pressure on my 66 should always be higher than the ATA-pressure, but how big is the minimum difference? 5 psi? 20?
> 
> thanks :thumbsup:


30psi difference is minimum difference.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

PRelHacko said:


> Hi Marzocchi tech,
> 
> I have been toying with the idea of lowering an '07 All Mountain 1. On page 79 of the bomber-07 manual (table 6) it states that the All Mountain I and II have "available" travels of 140 -160. Mine is currently set as a 160 but I would prefer a 140, but don't know how to do this. Is it an optional version of the fork...? or a kit..? Or can I rearrange some spacers inside the left leg to alter the default length..? or is it just a typo...
> 
> ...


To change the travel you would need a new ETA cartridge. The way the fork is you can not change the travel by moviing parts around. Sorry.


----------



## JoeDesperado (Feb 5, 2006)

thx bear and MTD :thumbsup:
in the german "freeride" magazine, a Marzocchi engineer stated that the ATA system should not be used as an on-the-fly travel adjustment, so I was kinda worried that I could ruin my brand new fork by using ATA too frequently and under pressure.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

thebronze said:


> Hey Tom, do you know if there is a way to limit the travel on a 2004 Z1 qr20? Its the only fork i've found that doesnt flex for me. I need something around 115 or 120mm travel. Maybe an ata cart on the left side?
> 
> Also, I know its been said before, but some of us old schoolers dont want TST. We want hscv or rc3 with open carts for tuning. I'd prefer a shim kit where I could crack her open and monkey a bit.


It depends on if you have a HSCV (rebound on top) or a SSVF (rebound on the bottom) damper. SSVF's can be shortened, HSCV's have to be changed to the travel you are looking for.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I'm gonna smack him when I see him*



JoeDesperado said:


> thx bear and MTD :thumbsup:
> in the german "freeride" magazine, a Marzocchi engineer stated that the ATA system should not be used as an on-the-fly travel adjustment, so I was kinda worried that I could ruin my brand new fork by using ATA too frequently and under pressure.


I know this engineer and all I can say is, he doesn't ride and is scared to. So if he was in a parking lot he would still stop to adjust it for fear of falling off his bike and going boom. :eekster:.

That's what you get for listening to an engineer :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 
That's funny stuff!!!


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That's what you get for listening to an engineer :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
> That's funny stuff!!!


Hey now, not all of us are engi-nerds...


----------



## mudhut (Jul 24, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Yeah, the manual is still wrong. I hope the Italians get on here and read this stuff. We sent a new chart for air pressures for months....glad to see they are not updating the manual. :madman:
> Here's the basics for setting up ATA.
> 
> Set the bottom air pressure first. It is positive pressure and is for the bottom-out resistance.
> ...


Thanks for the tuning help! :thumbsup: I'll give it a try this weekend when the snow has melted off a bit around here. Just understanding what each chamber does helps a lot. Having good support from Marzocchi on mtbr is a great resource and does a lot to make up for the shortcomings of the Italian's support.

There are quite a few complaints about the manual in the reviews of this fork. Having good information available, and access to support on the website would do a lot to remedy this. Comparing it to other forks in its niche--adjustable height longer-suspension cross country fork--its lighter and cheaper. If I can just get it work right for me...

I'll send you a PM about the bushing. Thanks.


----------



## Canuckxc (May 12, 2004)

*Creaking Corsa - Help!*

I just bought a 2007 Corsa and on the first ride this week noticed it making a terrible creaking noise and banging as it encountered small obstacles. I thought it was coming from the lowers, but it was so bad I thought my headset might be loose. Trail-side headset tighten didn't work.

Took it to a bike shop - headset's fine, they could hear it in the lowers too.

Brought it home, emptied it, set the rebound and ATA at middle setting, refilled as per your recent post levels (115 lower first, then 50 upper). Feels great, but still makes that awful noise when I rock it back and forth with the front brake on.

If I prop the bike up on it's rear wheel and hold it by the lowers I can actually flex them , see them flex from the stanchions, and they make a small 'tick'.

Update: when I compress the fork I can hear air moving and the bottom pressure goes down, upper goes up. Sounds like something's not sealed ...

Tell me this isn't normal. Normal break-in? Seems weird for that!


----------



## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

*oil inside ATA cartridge*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Oil volume for the ATA side of a 08 66 is 50cc's
> The other side is an RC3 cartridge and will need 305ml / cc's. Make sure you check it by hieght too. The oil hieght (fully compressed) is 60-65mm from the top of the stanchion.


Sorry Tom  :

Inside the ATA cartridge what king of lubricant can I use?.. I striped it all to remove the broken internal and to assembly it again I need to to lubricate the seals and the sealing areas, the suspension oil will be good for that too?,sorry for all the questions.

Many thanks friend, greetings to Kevin and Ronnie too:thumbsup:


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## GiantCHaDSTeR (Oct 16, 2006)

MTD,

I have a question for you regarding my 2007 Roco R. is it normal for this shock to lose air if the bike is not being use? While i'm riding the shocks works flawlessly and the air seems to hold fine. the following weekend the air is low. do you think I have a leak somewhere in the shock? does it affect the shock air pressure if i hang my bike upside down?


----------



## uncajohn (Jan 17, 2006)

Heeey!
A Marzocchi tech forum at last!
I have 2 questions:
1) (the easy one).
How do i take apart the rebound knob on my roco TST R in order to change the spring?
And, 
2) The hard one).
here can i get online parts for my 66RC2X & Roco TST R, avoiding the Greek dealer? (this guy is terrible)

Thanks.
UncaJohn


----------



## nmn25 (May 16, 2006)

sorry if this has been addressed (stopped reading after 7 pages of irrelevant info to my problem).

I just picked up an 08 888 wc ata, and i cant figure out what the "virtual oil level volume adjust does". I called marzochhi tech 3 times and was told twice "just not to mess with it" and a third time "im not really to sure, i haven't used that fork before" . The manual doesnt address it at all. My bike shop cant figure it out, and i cant seem to feel a difference. Normally oil levels are used to adjust progressivity in a sense, but theres already the par chamber and then the natural progresivity of an air fork (although it is the best feeling air fork ive been on). Anyways, if you could explain what the volume adjust does and how to set it up, that would be great!

On a side note, im looking at picking up a roco wc, but im not sure between air or coil. In your opinion, is the air pretty much as good as the coil? (going on a 9 inch travel single pivot dh bike, which has had both an 08 dhx coil and air). If wieght is a priority, bu so is money and ride, what would you do?

Thanks!


----------



## bear (Feb 3, 2004)

uncajohn said:


> 1) (the easy one).
> How do i take apart the rebound knob on my roco TST R in order to change the spring?


There's a small hex bolt down in the knob. 2mm or 2.5mm, can't recall. Hold the knob with a pair of pliers and unscrew the bolt. Likewise, hold it with pliers when screwing back in. You don't want to force the bolt in against the interior workings.


----------



## craigstr (Sep 19, 2003)

*Anybody know the pressure range for the RC3 cartridge on a 66 RC3*

I just got a Glory with an 66 RC3 and the manual is SO vague. What are the pressure ranges for the left leg? It was delivered with 0 in it. Also it has a TST-R shock, what are the bottom out pressures?


----------



## Dirt_Dog (Sep 21, 2007)

craigstr said:


> I just got a Glory with an 66 RC3 and the manual is SO vague. What are the pressure ranges for the left leg? It was delivered with 0 in it. Also it has a TST-R shock, what are the bottom out pressures?


You shouldn't put ANY air into the left side if you can gain enough preload from the right red preload dial.

Adding air reduces the incredible suppleness. BY far the most supple and smooth tracking fork I have ever had the pleasure to ride.

There's a reason they put a mechanical preload there, so you don't have to use air. The air adjust is a carry over from using the same parts for the air ATA.


----------



## macadam (Apr 4, 2006)

nmn25 said:


> sorry if this has been addressed (stopped reading after 7 pages of irrelevant info to my problem).
> 
> I just picked up an 08 888 wc ata, and i cant figure out what the "virtual oil level volume adjust does". I called marzochhi tech 3 times and was told twice "just not to mess with it" and a third time "im not really to sure, i haven't used that fork before" . The manual doesnt address it at all. My bike shop cant figure it out, and i cant seem to feel a difference. Normally oil levels are used to adjust progressivity in a sense, but theres already the par chamber and then the natural progresivity of an air fork (although it is the best feeling air fork ive been on). Anyways, if you could explain what the volume adjust does and how to set it up, that would be great!
> 
> ...


The "virtual oil level volume adjust" is the ability to reduce the air volume in the RC3 fork leg. The system it is so simple that you won't believe it! the red knob under the rebound knob, screws a piston inside the stanchion, thus reducing the air volume. This change in air volume is equivalent to changing the oil level. If you screw in the red knob is similar to adding more oil, screwing out the knob will be similar to removing oil. Simple as that.

Happy trails, 
Adrian

*
P.S. I really find some of the information included in this thread very interesting/important, but it is so hard to go through it since there are so many different problems. I would suggest posters which have a new problem to start a new topic. I'm sure that if they include Marzocchi in the the thread tile Tom will look at them. And the information will be better organized, and we can all benefit from it. 
*


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Any way to get a replacement axle/QR setup for an 08 66 ATA? 

I'm developing the dreaded loosening issue... Was fine for the first few rides, and now it's developing play. Had the fork a few months now, but it's had very little actual mileage. I'd rather try a new axle first, before shipping the whole fork back/dealing with a RA and all that. Granted, the fork is also making some horrible clicking sounds on the first half of compression, and I think the ATA chamber and PAR chambers are leaking into one another somehow... Pressures keep equalizing, even though I've been setting the PAR 30psi higher... And the bushings seem intolerably sloppy for a nearly new fork...

Yeah, I think I'll just call tomorrow to get a RA number...


----------



## vinnycactus (Sep 17, 2005)

dear marzocchi support,

is there anyway you can give me an update on what is going on with my tst cart? it has been sitting at marzo for two weeks and vm's I leave go unanswered.

thanks


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## cda26 (Apr 14, 2008)

*my Corsa TST-5 has never worked properly*

I have an '07 Corsa SL world cup 100mm. From the time I first got it the TST 5 has only been a TST 2. It will only go from fully open to fully closed. I paid to send it in to Marz. They "fixed" it and sent it back. Well, it was exactly the same. I contacted them again and they told me to send it in again so they could fix it. Well, I do not want to spend $30 to ship it $80 to have them "fix" it and send it back to me in the same condition. I have been very dissapointed in Marz service and would like them to remedy this problem.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

cda26 said:


> I have an '07 Corsa SL world cup 100mm. From the time I first got it the TST 5 has only been a TST 2. It will only go from fully open to fully closed. I paid to send it in to Marz. They "fixed" it and sent it back. Well, it was exactly the same. I contacted them again and they told me to send it in again so they could fix it. Well, I do not want to spend $30 to ship it $80 to have them "fix" it and send it back to me in the same condition. I have been very dissapointed in Marz service and would like them to remedy this problem.


That's what happened with at least one of my friends, though shipping was $40 each time, three times, then there was a replacement fork for a discount that blew as well, with the TST.


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## Clutchman83 (Apr 16, 2006)

cda26 said:


> It will only go from fully open to fully closed. I paid to send it in to Marz. They "fixed" it and sent it back. Well, it was exactly the same. I contacted them again and they told me to send it in again so they could fix it. Well, I do not want to spend $30 to ship it $80 to have them "fix" it and send it back to me in the same condition. I have been very dissapointed in Marz service and would like them to remedy this problem.


Thats the exact same experience I had. Was told to send it in to be fixed, was charged about $120 for the service and it was returned in the exact same condition. I called them back and they said they'd have to charge me for it again... are you f'ing kidding me!?! Oh well, I rode it as is for another week and the TST blew up anyways.


----------



## unfriendlyGiant (Apr 15, 2008)

*help!*

Marz Support Guy -

I just installed a 2007 All Mountain - 1 w/160mm travel and increased the ETA oil level and changed TST oil to 15wt. No matter how high I set the ETA air pressure I end up with too much compression in standup downhill position (90% compressed at 25psi and 60% compressed at 40psi) and more air is just going to make too exponential spring ramp and for a harsher ride. I feel as though I am getting only air spring and no coil spring effects due to my weight.

At 250lbs riding weight I'd like to install a heavier spring than stock - can you suggest something from your stock that would fit this fork and maintain the 160mm travel?

Thanks


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

Glad to see Marzocchi Tech support on mtbr,

Now, while I don't believe everything I see on the web I have seen this in a few different places so can you tell me if it is possible to permanently reduce the travel on my 2007 66 RC2 ETA from the 180mm down to 160mm?

What I have seen on various websites is that folks have said that they have sent their 2007 66 RC2 ETA 180MM forks to Marzocchi and had you guys remove the ETA cartridge and replace it with a 160MM RC2X cartridge thus reducing the travel to 160mm and getting rid of the ETA. Is that possible? If so what parts are necessary and what is the cost? 

Cheers.


----------



## uncajohn (Jan 17, 2006)

Thank's bear.

Does anyone know an online shop that i may order when i'll (eventually) need some spare parts? 
The local dealer is more than terrible (you don't want him to touch your fork/shock and if you do that mistake, then you'll loose from 3 months up to 10 months waiting!!! (counted).
Greece's importer does not even stock some basic parts, asside the fact that he does not have in stock a single Roco shock. I had to order mine and after a wait of 2 months he brought me an Airshock instead of the TST-R coil i odered...)
Now, i've got the right Roco but .. without the coil! 

UncaJohn


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## lmx (Jul 4, 2006)

*settings 888 ata wc + rocco wc*

hey marzocchi man!

my dh season is starting in a week or so and i don't have a clue how to setup my fork and shock since i will be rinding marzocchi product for the first time (several years of fox and rock shox)....

i would need some baseline setups so i can start somewhere and than fine tune it while i ride...

bike 2008 norco team dh
fork ata wc 888
shock rocco wc with ti spring

style dh racing
rider weight 175

thanks!


----------



## brettf (Jun 28, 2005)

*55 ETA spring rate?*

post deleted - moved question to the 2nd thread.


----------



## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We have seen the other topics. We would like to redirect these people with troubles to us so we can actually fix the problems. We can try to answer as many questions as we can here but as you know we are only a few and the web is so many. It's best to get in touch with us directly. There is a spot on our website to ask technical questions as well. This is done everyday.
> 
> Try www.marzocchi.com.
> 
> ...


SloMotion aka Steve Foley former Marz employeee, then Atomic Labs/Cole wheels. Steve and I had a good talk about this a day or two before you started this post after a great ride together a few weeks back at Keyesville Classic... coincidence, I guess, I thought my words were falling on deaf ears, but Steve cares, guess he's still in touch with those that can git 'er done. :thumbsup:


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## fabricio fracchia (Mar 11, 2006)

*oil sinside ATA cartridge inside 66 ATA 2008*

Any here know if inside of the ATA cartridge is going filled with any amount of oil or just lubed the seals and sealing areas?....

Many thanks


----------



## hball (May 22, 2004)

sth. different. red is such an odd color.
*black* or *blue* would be sth. different.

pass this on to one of your productmanagers 










cheers


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

That is fricken hot in BLUE.



hball said:


> sth. different. red is such an odd color.
> *black* or *blue* would be sth. different.
> 
> pass this on to one of your productmanagers
> ...


----------



## janozlav (Mar 12, 2008)

*55 ATA problems*

3 riders behind with a new 55 ATA. 2 problems identified:

1: Front wheel shivers. There seems to be some play in the front hub. I've read about some problmes with the axle. How should I fix it?

2: Upper (ATA) cartridge looses all air within a few days. It needs to be refilled before every ride. How should I fix this?


----------



## janozlav (Mar 12, 2008)

*55 ATA problems*

3 riders behind with a new 55 ATA. 2 problems identified:

1: Front wheel shivers. There seems to be some play in the front hub. I've read about some problmes with the axle. How should I fix it?

2: Upper (ATA) cartridge looses all air within a few days. It needs to be refilled before every ride. How should I fix this?


----------



## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

I have an 2000 model Z1 MCR QR20 with extra firm springs in it and I've got a question. Neither of the distributors in canada (Norco or Cycles-Lambert) has any of the 130mm travel soft springs in stock, and I'm wondering if I can simply drop in some shorter soft-rate springs (say from a 120mm or 100mm bomber) to reduce the travel at the same time? The fork is going to be going on a P2 Jump bike build for a rider who's all of about 120 pounds. Alternatively, I have the guts of a 2004 MX model with the air springs and ETA cartridge... could I put that into the shell of the Z1 MCR ?


----------



## burtmotoxrider (Apr 3, 2008)

i need some help, might be getting some 03 dj3's that have 130mm of travel but they are reduceable to 110mm, problem is the guy whos selling em dont know how to reduce them and 130 mm might be a bit big


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## Bati (Sep 25, 2005)

Hi Marzocchi Tech Department,

How much oil (and which you recommend) must I use inside the PAR chamber of an 55ATA? and in the main chamber? I'll change orings and will need that info.

Thanks, Emilio


----------



## uncajohn (Jan 17, 2006)

*Bypass*

Still no answer from M.

Hey guys,
How can i get parts for my rocco TST-R, 66RC2X and other, without messing with the Greek importer?
_-Is there an online shop that has a complette parts list for Marz products?
-Can i order directly from Italy?_

Thanks.
John


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*ATA oil level*



Bati said:


> Hi Marzocchi Tech Department,
> 
> How much oil (and which you recommend) must I use inside the PAR chamber of an 55ATA? and in the main chamber? I'll change orings and will need that info.
> 
> Thanks, Emilio


You want to put only 1cc in each chamber. All good!!!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*I don't know but you can try*



uncajohn said:


> Still no answer from M.
> 
> Hey guys,
> How can i get parts for my rocco TST-R, 66RC2X and other, without messing with the Greek importer?
> ...


You can try to go to www.marzocchi.com and see what you can do through there. I don't know if they can send stuff to Greece or not. Sorry.


----------



## koko85 (Mar 18, 2005)

Ok heres the sort of it and any advice would be great. been riding my Marzocchi 66SL 1 ATA for about a year. i periodically check my air pressures and when i went to do so today heres what happened. let the air out and in the bottom left chamber as i did oil came gushing out..not dripping...gushing...i filled the bottom back up with air around say 100 psi while the top had 0 psi but when i hooked up my pump to the top to fill up all of a sudden it had about half the air i had just put into the bottom...went back to the bottom and yep--sure enough there was now only 50 psi in the bottom? oh and more oil? whats going on and does it half to go back to Marzocchi? thanks in advance koko85


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## oldskoolgiant (Mar 1, 2007)

I've got a '98 Z.2 Atom Bomb. It is leaking oil through the top of the stanchion where the compression adjust knob is. The knob is actually missing, so it is just the pin. It does not seem to matter what the setting is. There is no leak around any of the seals or sliders. I've taken the fork apart, replaced the oil and all of the seals looked good, but when it compresses, oil comes up through that pin. 

Any ideas?


----------



## uncajohn (Jan 17, 2006)

*Hmmm nope. No luck.*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You can try to go to www.marzocchi.com and see what you can do through there. I don't know if they can send stuff to Greece or not. Sorry.


Well,
Mamma Marzocchi preffers to sell directly through the local dealers. Now this is not a bad thing, but what Mamma marzocchi does in order to keep the customer service in a high level, at least as high as Marzocchi's products are?
Because no matter how good your product is, if you cannot support it you're just loosing ground & sales! Yes, i do have a great fork (66RC2X) and a great shock (Roco TSR-R) and i am VERY satified from the performance of these products, but every single contact with your dealer at Greece is dissapointing. 
Some exambles that may enlighten you from a group of bikers that rides mostly Marzocchi:
-No available parts.
Yep, Greece's importer has no parts at his shop, exept if you're really lucky. 
_For a pair of 66 cartidges we were waiting for more thatn 4 months! (now you can undarstand what that means for you ridding this season).
For a rebound knob WE HAD TO LOOK into a.. carton box in order to discover the part! the importer was not able to locate this even when given the part number!
No bushings for shocks and no spacers (of cource). The importer sends me to a .. machine shop!_
-No stock items.
Wow! Greece's imprter had ONLY ONE ROCO rear shock sample that was not available! Come on! 
-Luck of knowledge on their products. (now this is the most interesting part):
_He does not even know the range of coil spring (and of cource does not stock them) for his rear shocks! (how can we order then?)
He does not know basic features on Marzocchi's products (when i was looking for a fork for a prototype bike the "expert" was not able to direct me. He just lost a sale)_
-Very bad & delaied ordering. (Now, this is the most recent):
_I've ordered a Roco TST-R for my new SIN frame. I handed him specific specks (size, coil characteristics, type of shock, bushing/spacers dimentions, etc) and after 3 months and more he delivered a..Roco Air shock!
Then i reordered and after 1 month i've gor my roco (all right) but.. without a coil & set of spacers....)_

So don't take me wrong, but it makes perfect sence why people ridding marzocchi at Greece are looking for a parts shop outside Greece's importer. And have in mind that most of these guys know how to ride & take care of their suspensions and do support Marzocchi (and why not these are great products).

Thanks for your fast answer.
UncaJohn


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> If we weren't very sharp then we wouldn't have been able to supply this info to Mr. P. in the first place.
> 
> All Mountain you have now gotten under my skin.  ...and this just makes it harder for me to come here and help out....but what should I expect right???
> 
> ...


Does the TST Micro have compression-shims in it?


----------



## tpparker (May 16, 2008)

Hi Tom, Firstly, I've spent the better part of two hours reading the length of this forum, and I must say: I am IMPRESSED! If only Marzocchi as a whole was this intelligent and dedicated to customer service. THANK YOU!

I had the top cap of the oil canister of my '07 ROCO TST R come lose during a ride and leak some oil, enough that the shock feels awful after tightening it. I was wondering if there is a height-from-the-top measurement, like that used with forks, that I could reference when refilling. 
-Thanks, Tesh


----------



## Warp (May 24, 2004)

tpparker said:


> I had the top cap of the oil canister of my '07 ROCO TST R come lose during a ride and leak some oil, enough that the shock feels awful after tightening it. I was wondering if there is a height-from-the-top measurement, like that used with forks, that I could reference when refilling.
> -Thanks, Tesh


Sounds like a blown shock in the need of a rebuild.

Or it could be just lubrication oil weeping out... but unlikely.


----------



## tpparker (May 16, 2008)

Well, I repaced the oil by putting enough in that it was at halfway in the threads. The shock is fuctioning like it should, but one problem exists. Now I'm having trouble with the piston rebounding with a noticeable amount of oil on the shaft. Any ideas?

I'm going shuttling tomorrow, so, I'll get back to you after that. I have my first race of the season comming up on Memorial Day weekend, so, I'm really hoping to get this worked out.
-Thanks, Tesh


----------



## rvanderveur (Apr 13, 2005)

*2008 Marzocchi 55 TST2 not getting full travel*

Howdy,
My 55 TST2 is not getting full travel. A little birdie told me there are some forks coming on bikes OE that are set in at a lower travel setting. How can I get full travel? Thanks RVV


----------



## tpparker (May 16, 2008)

*Dang.*

So, after riding for a few hours today, the shock continued to leak and the TST started to go again ( a problem I experienced when the shock first started acting up). I'm I right in accepting that I'm just going to have see about warranting/sending it in for maintenance?


----------



## LostinSwitzerland (May 16, 2008)

*07 66 ETA Help req.*

Some help required with setup on my 66 any tips greatly appreciated.
I have had it a month and still trying to get is sorted.
Air pressure, damper settings for 80kg 185cm rider doing all mountain no big drops?
With ETA locked/closed when new would suck down about 120mm now it will only drop the front 30mm, is it broke or just need a tune up? Thanks


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

LostinSwitzerland said:


> Some help required with setup on my 66 any tips greatly appreciated.
> I have had it a month and still trying to get is sorted.
> Air pressure, damper settings for 80kg 185cm rider doing all mountain no big drops?
> With ETA locked/closed when new would suck down about 120mm now it will only drop the front 30mm, is it broke or just need a tune up? Thanks


Well go ahead and try these pressures. First I would let the air out of the top valve under the ATA cap. Now put about 125psi in the bottom PAR chamber. This will be a good setting for AM riding. Then inflate the top valve to about 45-47 psi. this should be a pretty plush setting. If it's too soft or too firm just mess with the top valve pressure.

As far as the ETA, it sounds like it might be a little low on oil. You will have to unscrew the top cap and insert about 5-10cc's of 7.5wt golden spectro oil. If you have the know how to check the oil hieght the measurement should be 45-50mm from the top, spring removed, fully compressed. 
I hope this helps. 
Cheers.


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## nightnerd (Mar 5, 2007)

*Oil level in 2006 mx pro eta tas*

Hi,
Can anyone tell me how much I have to put in each leg for this fork? I weight 135 pounds without gear and take drops up to 3,5'. Thank you very much for your help

Mat


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Well go ahead and try these pressures. First I would let the air out of the top valve under the ATA cap. Now put about 125psi in the bottom PAR chamber. This will be a good setting for AM riding. Then inflate the top valve to about 45-47 psi. this should be a pretty plush setting. If it's too soft or too firm just mess with the top valve pressure.
> 
> As far as the ETA, it sounds like it might be a little low on oil. You will have to unscrew the top cap and insert about 5-10cc's of 7.5wt golden spectro oil. If you have the know how to check the oil hieght the measurement should be 45-50mm from the top, spring removed, fully compressed.
> I hope this helps.
> Cheers.


I am confused! Since when did a 66 ETA have an ATA cartridge? Shouldn't it have an RC2 cart on the right leg and an ETA cart on the left leg??


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## LostinSwitzerland (May 16, 2008)

*Yup - except for the marketing*

Yes, RHS leg has RC2 and LHS has ETA, but if you read the promo literature you would swear it means it has both. I checked the speel on their website quoted below:

"The 66 is the long travel single crown fork that many try to imitate but none can duplicate. This fork delivers with function and technology. This year we've integrated the all new ATA system into the fork as well as ETA in case you need to climb instead of shuttle your closest trail. Progressive riders demand a fork that works on the big drops with the freedom of a single crown. The 66 is the only choice."

Hmm...... Stealth ATA maybe?

Anyway, does anyone know if and how much air pressure in the bottom out chamber (filled through the top of rc2 leg) effects how much the ETA will drop? ie if pressure is high then ETA will not "lower" as much.

With the oil on ETA side should I just add a bit (5/10ccs) or do proper oil height measurement?
Thanks Rob


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## warriorltd (Oct 6, 2006)

i scratched my 06 888 RC2X stantion real bad :madman:. i tried clear nail polish and and the seals ripped it off. is there anything i can do? if not, how much does a new stantion cost? thanks
-RPFW


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

nightnerd said:


> Hi,
> Can anyone tell me how much I have to put in each leg for this fork? I weight 135 pounds without gear and take drops up to 3,5'. Thank you very much for your help
> 
> Mat


That's an XC fork and you shouldn't be doing drops on it. 

As far as air settings you can run anywhere from 0-55 psi in the non-eta side. My guess would be about 20psi. Set you air pressure according to how much sag you want. 100mm fork with 20% sag is 20mm once you sit on the bike...if it's a 120mm fork would be 24mm of sag.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*That sucks*



warriorltd said:


> i scratched my 06 888 RC2X stantion real bad :madman:. i tried clear nail polish and and the seals ripped it off. is there anything i can do? if not, how much does a new stantion cost? thanks
> -RPFW


The only thing you can do is replace it. They are roughly 140 bucks.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

*06 Marathon SL Doppio clicking inside*

Hi MTD. This fork is just over a year old and doesn't have a lot of ride time on it and has never been apart. It has an annoying little knock, click, tap on both compression and rebound. You can feel it on every up/down stroke and it happens with very little travel of the fork. Like something is floating between stops. Doesn't seem to matter what pressures or settings. Any advise?

thanks for the help, it's a great service!

Jeff


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

azjeff said:


> Hi MTD. This fork is just over a year old and doesn't have a lot of ride time on it and has never been apart. It has an annoying little knock, click, tap on both compression and rebound. You can feel it on every up/down stroke and it happens with very little travel of the fork. Like something is floating between stops. Doesn't seem to matter what pressures or settings. Any advise?
> 
> thanks for the help, it's a great service!
> 
> Jeff


:skep: I am not too sure. Your fork has TST5 correct? My best guess would be that it has something to do with the TST5. I'm not sure without seeing it. Can you feel it when your are riding or just when you are pushing on it in your garage? If it's something that you can only feel in your garage you might want to weigh the options. Ride your bike or send in your fork and stare at your forkless bike for two weeks. Sorry for being so rash I'm just spelling it out for you. Excuse my sarcasism.

We are a bit backed up in the tech department right now. It looks like about a 2 week turn around right now.


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## wormvine (Oct 27, 2005)

LostinSwitzerland said:


> Yes, RHS leg has RC2 and LHS has ETA, but if you read the promo literature you would swear it means it has both. I checked the speel on their website quoted below:
> 
> "The 66 is the long travel single crown fork that many try to imitate but none can duplicate. This fork delivers with function and technology. This year we've integrated the all new ATA system into the fork as well as ETA in case you need to climb instead of shuttle your closest trail. Progressive riders demand a fork that works on the big drops with the freedom of a single crown. The 66 is the only choice."
> 
> ...


Are you sure that the air valve on the RC2 side is a BO chamber? I was under the impression it was air preload. Add some air to it to adjust sag. It will stiffen up the fork though. I believe that ETA locks out the rebound circuit so when you compress the fork it stays down. Adding air to the right leg shouldn't stop ETA, it will just make it harder to compress the fork. Once compressed it should stay down. But I could be totally wrong about ETA.

As far as oil is concerned. I think adding a small amount of oil is easier to do and can be a quicker fix. To measure oil height, you will have to remove the spring from the ETA cartridge. It gets in the way otherwise. So oil height is the most accurate but adding a small amount can fix it quicker and easier if oil levels are low.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

wormvine said:


> Are you sure that the air valve on the RC2 side is a BO chamber? I was under the impression it was air preload. Add some air to it to adjust sag. It will stiffen up the fork though. I believe that ETA locks out the rebound circuit so when you compress the fork it stays down. Adding air to the right leg shouldn't stop ETA, it will just make it harder to compress the fork. Once compressed it should stay down. But I could be totally wrong about ETA.
> 
> As far as oil is concerned. I think adding a small amount of oil is easier to do and can be a quicker fix. To measure oil height, you will have to remove the spring from the ETA cartridge. It gets in the way otherwise. So oil height is the most accurate but adding a small amount can fix it quicker and easier if oil levels are low.


Just smack me up side the head!:madman: ETA RC2 is correct. Not ATA.

SO ETA RC2, use the RC2 air preload to set your sag as well as it being used for bottom-out control. If the pressure you use makes it so you can't get full travel you can pull a little oil out of the RC2 side to increase the air volume which inturn will decrease the progression of the air you have in the fork. You have to balance it out. 
Just remove 5cc's (or add 5cc's) to get the bottom-out control where you want it. You will want to have compression at the minimum setting until you get this dialed. Then start pinning it.

Sorry for the confusion.


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## azjeff (Jun 3, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> :skep: I am not too sure. Your fork has TST5 correct? My best guess would be that it has something to do with the TST5. I'm not sure without seeing it. Can you feel it when your are riding or just when you are pushing on it in your garage? If it's something that you can only feel in your garage you might want to weigh the options. Ride your bike or send in your fork and stare at your forkless bike for two weeks. Sorry for being so rash I'm just spelling it out for you. Excuse my sarcasism.
> 
> We are a bit backed up in the tech department right now. It looks like about a 2 week turn around right now.


Yeah the fork has TST. It's noticeable when riding, anytime the fork changes direction there's a little tick or knock from inside.


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

azjeff said:


> Yeah the fork has TST. It's noticeable when riding, anytime the fork changes direction there's a little tick or knock from inside.


pretty sure I know this one if it is the same thing mine was doing. There is a little plastic ring above the glide ring on the rebound piston wich has play on purpose to let oil flow through the rebound circuit on compression (around the piston and through the 4 big holes) and then slide up and shut off the circuit (4 big holes) for rebound forcing oil to go through the orifice.

When it changes direction you can hear it smack into the stops on each end on which it slides. Being that yours is new I dont know why it happened so soon mine took like a year and I just replaced it and while it is still present it is much more muffled so no biggy I just wrote it off as a wearible item and at only like a buck no big deal.

it also seems if you minus the rebound the noise gets quieter but I would rather have noise and controlled rebound than poppy rebound.


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That's an XC fork and you shouldn't be doing drops on it.
> 
> As far as air settings you can run anywhere from 0-55 psi in the non-eta side. My guess would be about 20psi. Set you air pressure according to how much sag you want. 100mm fork with 20% sag is 20mm once you sit on the bike...if it's a 120mm fork would be 24mm of sag.


I think that he's after the oil levels instead of air pressures.


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## jaulomero (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello:
I'm new on this forum and I have a question to MZ. On my MTB club, We buyed four 55 with TSTmicro two months ago, and after 3 weeks, TSTmicro failed on all forks. 
We sent all 55 to MZ Technical Service and after 1 moth We received forks, some of them with original TSTmicro and one with TST2. I seems that they don't have TSTmicro stocks.
But my question is: After check oil levels, we found that all fork doesn't have oil on TST legs. Completely dry. It seems that this is solution for TST problems, but we can't truth it. Could you confirm that this is the MZ solution for TST problems on 55 forks?
Thanks


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hi i got a new 888rc3 2008 since 3 weeks on c-dale judge, i ride much and hard. today the fork begins to stutter.. under force, that mean when i stand in downhill position in bike and gife a litte compresion with my arms down to the fork she dont move, like its uptight... the head angel is in this moment maybe 63°. when i go with my body forward that the head angel is maybe 65° she works fine. any idea??


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## slowrider (May 15, 2004)

*XC 700 sl ?s*

So the above fork just returned from service where it recieved a new lower detent shaft and oil. I've had no luck using the reccomended set up from the manual but I've gotten it closer with the help of the folks on this forum; 2 questions for you. 1st my fork is an 07 requiring a pump adaptor while my freinds 08 (same model) dosn't have it; what proportions should the pressures be in these 3 chambers? Second, the travel adjustment on my fork will wind itself down 3 turns in a 5 minute dh run; how can I fix that? Thanks for any help.


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## joebig (Apr 30, 2006)

*Extract the TST in an AM SL '06*

Hi everybody!!!

I changed the oil in my All Mountain SL '06 two weeks ago. But I had a problem: I could not change the oil inside the TST cartridge because I couldn't extract it from the fork!!!

It uses some kind of wrench that I have never seen (it's not a cassette tool, see the attached image). Plese, help me find the correct tool so I can 'play' with the TST.

Thank you very much!!!! Greetings from Spain!!!


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

joebig said:


> Hi everybody!!!
> 
> I changed the oil in my All Mountain SL '06 two weeks ago. But I had a problem: I could not change the oil inside the TST cartridge because I couldn't extract it from the fork!!!
> 
> ...


Try an adjustable wrench, a normal spanner of the right size (21mm??) or a suitable chamferless socket.


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

joebig said:


> Hi everybody!!!
> 
> I changed the oil in my All Mountain SL '06 two weeks ago. But I had a problem: I could not change the oil inside the TST cartridge because I couldn't extract it from the fork!!!
> 
> ...


it requires a specialty tool I have 2 by accident and would sell you my other one still in package for what I paid (I think like 25 bucks. I wouldnt try any other toold cause if you round one of those edges your in deep.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Jesse Hill said:


> it requires a specialty tool I have 2 by accident and would sell you my other one still in package for what I paid (I think like 25 bucks. I wouldnt try any other toold cause if you round one of those edges your in deep.


Not really.

I was able to take one off tapping in a 7/8" socket. I did not recommended it because it's too medieval.

Specialty tools suck.

Here's another dang fine option.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=2612420&postcount=4


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

hey Tom nice pic you made it in MBA page 77


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Warp said:


> Not really.
> 
> I was able to take one off tapping in a 7/8" socket. I did not recommended it because it's too medieval.
> 
> ...


not sure if that link was correct but were you suggesting the knipex pliers? I think that would be a very close fit to the crown.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Jesse Hill said:


> not sure if that link was correct but were you suggesting the knipex pliers? I think that would be a very close fit to the crown.


Yeah, the Knipex. It will fit. Hell, my 8" crescent does.


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Warp said:


> Yeah, the Knipex. It will fit. Hell, my 8" crescent does.


well If he doesnt have knipex pliers he would have to by those anyways.

so if you (original poster) want the right tool for the job I got an extra like I said and I think it was only like 25 bucks.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Jesse Hill said:


> well If he doesnt have knipex pliers he would have to by those anyways.
> 
> so if you (original poster) want the right tool for the job I got an extra like I said and I think it was only like 25 bucks.


I hope your Zoke special tool will help you fix the faucet, gas lines, on the car, piping, or any other bolt laying around and such. Good luck with the Zoke tool. Because the knipex can.

Jesse, I'd understand an interface for an special tool in a hard to reach place (which a crown shouldn't be in the first place if properly designed) like a gas compressor mechanical seal, the bolts of the main casing of a turbine (and most are just hex nuts) or you're dealing with multimillion dollar equipment and you provide it with the equipment in the first place.

But a fork's crown... gimme a good break.


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

well I guess being that I am a mechanic buying a 25 dollar tool that makes life easy aint gonna make me cry when most of my tools cost hundreds more. I guess I just hate dealing with rounded out fasteners from previous mickey mouse jobs.


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## joebig (Apr 30, 2006)

Come on, come on!!! Peace guys!!!! And thank you both of you for the information.

I will try with a knipex like tool (warp, which model do you have? I guess the cobra, but what size?, I will probably buy it for this and other stuff).

If I'm not able to unscrew the cartridge, I will contact you Jesse to speak about the MZ tool (if you have the reference, I will thank you for it as I'm in Spain and problably is more expensive to send the tool than the price of the tool - the 25 bucks).

I have a second AM SL (new in box, just as a backup as I bought it really cheap this january) and it uses the standard cassette tool... I don't understand why Marzocchi does this.... :nono: (any ideas????).

Thanx again!!!!


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

joebig said:


> I will try with a knipex like tool (warp, which model do you have? I guess the cobra, but what size?, I will probably buy it for this and other stuff).


I have a crescent wrench. An adjustable wrench. It works perfect except if the topcaps are galled or overtightened.

The AM1SL I had to take a tapped in socket was overtightened and galled.


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## nikalai (Sep 6, 2007)

*Travel issue on my 55 tst2 marz fork*

Hi everyone! Travel on my 55 tst2 marz fork strangely got reduced from 140mm to say 90mm only.everything seems to run smoothly, tough.anyone knows what`s up with this, and how can I fix it? Thanx a lot!


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

joebig said:


> Come on, come on!!! Peace guys!!!! And thank you both of you for the information.
> 
> I will try with a knipex like tool (warp, which model do you have? I guess the cobra, but what size?, I will probably buy it for this and other stuff).
> 
> ...


yea spain is a little far
part number I have is r5719/c


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

nikalai said:


> Hi everyone! Travel on my 55 tst2 marz fork strangely got reduced from 140mm to say 90mm only.everything seems to run smoothly, tough.anyone knows what`s up with this, and how can I fix it? Thanx a lot!


Hello! Sorry to hear about your problem. It sounds like the main o-ring (on the main air piston) is leaking and now your fork is shrunk in travel. We have a service kit with all the o-rings in it but you might need special tools (shaft blocks) to get the cartridge apart and work on it. The kit part number is #8501267. You could probably find a mating o-ring at a hardware store too. If you want you could send it to us for service.

How old is your fork? Do you have a lot of miles on it?


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

---


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

Hi Marzocchi,

I have a problem with my 66. The springs in the fork are too soft for me, if I put some air into it than the fork is very insensitively.

For that reason I want to change the springs, does anyone know if other springs fit? Maybe one from the 888? Of course i would have to shorten them, but this shouldn't be a problem.

Do you know the dimensons of 888 `04 - '06 springs?

Thanks!!!


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

Fischidh said:


> Hi Marzocchi,
> 
> I have a problem with my 66. The springs in the fork are too soft for me, if I put some air into it than the fork is very insensitively.
> 
> ...


How much preload presurre are you putting in?


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Fischidh said:


> Hi Marzocchi,
> 
> I have a problem with my 66. The springs in the fork are too soft for me, if I put some air into it than the fork is very insensitively.
> 
> ...


Fischidh, what year and model 66, and how much do you weigh?


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## EndoMadness (Jan 24, 2006)

*ETA won't stay down on '05 Marathon XC...*

recently my ETA stopped working ( i thin due to the fact i backed out the bottom travel adjustment too far). so i rebuilt the fork and noticed that in fact the cap for the TAS on the bottom had come unscrewed. I screwed it back on and changed the oil (with 5W buzzy shock nectar) i weigh 160.

Now my ETA is staying down, BUT only for 1 minute or so. It slowly adjusts back to its original height. It also doesn't lock down as far as before (i think i have increased the pressure on the TST side..is the probelm).

Is my ETA side leaking? or does it need more/less oil. Thanks mucho


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

EndoMadness said:


> recently my ETA stopped working ( i thin due to the fact i backed out the bottom travel adjustment too far). so i rebuilt the fork and noticed that in fact the cap for the TAS on the bottom had come unscrewed. I screwed it back on and changed the oil (with 5W buzzy shock nectar) i weigh 160.
> 
> Now my ETA is staying down, BUT only for 1 minute or so. It slowly adjusts back to its original height. It also doesn't lock down as far as before (i think i have increased the pressure on the TST side..is the probelm).
> 
> Is my ETA side leaking? or does it need more/less oil. Thanks mucho


More oil... or look at the filling up procedure that Marzocchi Tech Dept. posted on this board (can't remember where exactly).


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

I put 3 pumps into it. My weight is 75 kg.

By the way I opened the fork today and found out that the oil washers weren't mounted correct. I betterd that, but the fork still feels not good.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Fischidh said:


> I put 3 pumps into it. My weight is 75 kg.
> 
> By the way I opened the fork today and found out that the oil washers weren't mounted correct. I betterd that, but the fork still feels not good.


give me the rest of the info I asked you for please. What year and model 66 fork do you have?


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Fischidh, perhaps I am not communicating very well. Let me explain. Mr Marzocchi tech is not the only one here who may be able to assist you. He has a regular job as well, and isn't here all the time. Now you can compare his answer to other people's answers to confirm the information, so you can't do yourself a dis-service by getting more than one response.
If you tell me what year and what model 66 fork you have, I may be able to help you.


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

*Marzocchi Tech....*

Tom, I have been watching this thread as I have recently purchased a 55 ATA.

Firstly, I am impressed with the feedback that you have given and can really appreciate your patience with some.

That said, I have had all of the problems with this fork as outlined so far in this thread, and then some. First time the fork went back for service was because I lost travel (bad o-ring). However, when the fork came back to me it came back with too much oil in the damper. So, again I sent it back. Now I know there was an easy fix for this, but by the time I found out what was wrong I had damaged the cartridge;...my fault and it goes back for the second time.

Since then, considerable play has developed between the drop-out and my axle, ATA is still winding down, bushings have significant play, couple of other things that I included with the paperwork. I had dealt with all of these things until last night. I went to reset the fork (as it seems you have to do from time to time, or it starts to feel a little sticky). I unpressurized the top and bottom, but when I went to inflate I noticed right away that air was leaking freely through both chambers. Great:madman:

Long story short, I have a camping trip coming up on the 6th and Mike assured me that it could get turned around by then (RA#93705). I was wondering if you might get involved and maybe discuss some viable alternative to the air cartridge. I have heard some talk about dual coil and possibly even abandoning the Par chamber. I generally don't like to mod stuff, but this air cartridge has just given me too many problems. The fork went out today Priority USPS so the guys should have it by Friday. Like I said, if you don't mind getting involved I would appreciate it. The last time I had this many problems was with the AM 1 SL, I was forced to look to RS for a few years after that.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Was Zoke paying for the return shipping for the fork you have repeatedly sent back? What does shipping run each time?


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

Sorry, I was in a rush as I answered. That was my fall. I would very happy if you could help me.

I have the 66 RC2X from 2007.


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

*Hey JC...*



Jerk_Chicken said:


> Was Zoke paying for the return shipping for the fork you have repeatedly sent back? What does shipping run each time?


Nope! But in their defense this is standard procedure with all the companies. Although, I never had reoccurring issues with my Lyric that required multiple trips. The only company that paid for shipping from me to them was Cane Creek and they had an overnight call tag ready at UPS the next day. Not only that but the sent some swag back with the repaired shock. I can tell you from a customers standpoint that goes a long way.

Shipping Priority USPS to Valencia costs me $16 and they do match the shipping back. It would be a nice gesture if they offset that cost with some goodies:thumbsup:


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I wish there would be a law about it, like in the EU. There's no reason why one should pay to have an item repaired that should have worked out of the box. When I had my Fox 36 woes, I fought to get them to pay for return shipping. They did it, but messed it up so bad that I had to do the job myself and not wait the month they estimated.

For me, sending forks back to Ca from the wrong coast, with insurance and all that crap ends up being $40 or more, something I'm not willing to pay, nor do I feel I have to pay. Explaining that situation sternly to Fox, using some choice phrases, they turned around and complied, in their best interest.

A friend of mine sent his fork back to Zoke three times, at a cost of $40 each time to ship back.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Fischidh said:


> Sorry, I was in a rush as I answered. That was my fall. I would very happy if you could help me.
> 
> I have the 66 RC2X from 2007.


Fischidh, your '07 66RC2X has {two} 2.6K springs in it. You can purchase stronger springs, either directly from Marzocchi, or have your local bike store purchase them for you. They will be sold as a pair; you may only need to add one spring for your weight. The stiffer springs are 3.2K, and the marzocchi part number is: 5141330/C.

If you purchase them directly from marzocchi, tell them you want to buy some springs. They most likely will immediately ask you what fork you have. Just give them that part number. Don't let them them tell you what you need; chances are the salesperson will screw it up. Sorry Tom/marzocchi tech, but that has been my experience, I find that I have the biggest chance of success of getting my order right the first time if I handle it that way. Your sales people don't listen very well to the customer. Your warehouse people don't allways select the correct parts from inventory.


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

Renegade said:


> Fischidh, your '07 66RC2X has {two} 2.6K springs in it. You can purchase stronger springs, either directly from Marzocchi, or have your local bike store purchase them for you. They will be sold as a pair; you may only need to add one spring for your weight. The stiffer springs are 3.2K, and the marzocchi part number is: 5141330/C.
> 
> If you purchase them directly from marzocchi, tell them you want to buy some springs. They most likely will immediately ask you what fork you have. Just give them that part number. Don't let them them tell you what you need; chances are the salesperson will screw it up. Sorry Tom/marzocchi tech, but that has been my experience, I find that I have the biggest chance of success of getting my order right the first time if I handle it that way. Your sales people don't listen very well to the customer. Your warehouse people don't allways select the correct parts from inventory.


Woh, that was the answer I was surching for! Thank you very much!!!

Ride on Fischidh


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Renegade said:


> Sorry Tom/marzocchi tech, but that has been my experience, I find that I have the biggest chance of success of getting my order right the first time if I handle it that way. Your sales people don't listen very well to the customer. Your warehouse people don't allways select the correct parts from inventory.


Yup, I got a PAR piston for a Roco shock and no main quad seal... 

You could make some improvement there.

Also, some work on your own Parts Manuals should help. Mike and I were guessing which were the parts I needed as the schematic was pretty vague.


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

@ Renegade

I found the springs with the partnumber 5141330 (without "/C"). 

They are blue and have the spring rate 3.2 K. Now I am a bit confused, because my springs are blue, too. Yesterday I tried to find out the springrate with a test, I just put some weight on them and messered the lenght differenz. The result from my calculation was that they have 3.16 N/mm. 

Is there a differenz between 5141330/c and 5141330?

:???:


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Don't let the color confuse you; the 2.6 and 3.2 springs are both the same blue color. The diameter of the spring wire is different. The free length, O.D., and I.D. of the two different springs is more or less the same. Sounds like the right spring, even without the /C.
Where did you find them?

edit: the 3.2 spring has been used in 66 forks since 2005, and is even used in a 2008 55 fork, so it is very common.


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## Fischidh (Oct 26, 2007)

The diamter of my spring wire is 3.3mm. I orderd the springs yesterday at a local shop, but here is the online shop:

https://bike-components.de/catalog/Gabeln/MTB+Federgabel+Kleinteile/Feder+f%FCr+66+RC2X%20VF2+Baujahr+2006%202007?osCsid=5176d3faf6d649ce030f31a6a67f3716



> edit: the 3.2 spring has been used in 66 forks since 2005, and is even used in a 2008 55 fork, so it is very common.


Do you still think that I have the soft springs in my fork?

Thats my fork:










edit: Does anyone know the wire diameter of the 3.2K or of the 2.6k springs?


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Yes, the '07 66 RC2X comes stock with the 2.6 springs.
I can confirm the wire diameters of both springs over the weekend; I have both at home so I can measure them and report back later.
Fischidh, I'm sending you a private message.


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## sonnythep (Dec 13, 2005)

Hi Mz tec guy. 

I've just reassembled my 06 888 rc2x after an oil and seal change. And now there is a clicking sound about 2/3 in to the travel and when i shake ther fork it rattles. I've have read about others with the same problem here on mtbr but i have not found any posts from anyone actually fixing the problem or explaining why they make noises after a simple rebuild. 

I have already tried to rotate the spring in 4 diffrent ways and changed the preload settings but the problem remains.

So, can you give me any tips on how to solve this problem?


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## dorian gray (Feb 22, 2008)

hello
I have got a problem with the ATA dial of my 55 fork...
when I am lowering strong upon the bike the dial only lowers, the travel of fork is down in the route as I can solve this?
Thanks


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## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

sonnythep said:


> Hi Mz tec guy.
> 
> I've just reassembled my 06 888 rc2x after an oil and seal change. And now there is a clicking sound about 2/3 in to the travel and when i shake ther fork it rattles. I've have read about others with the same problem here on mtbr but i have not found any posts from anyone actually fixing the problem or explaining why they make noises after a simple rebuild.
> 
> ...


This writeup might help. I've serviced mine and my buddies' 06 888 RC2Xs a bunch of times without this or any problem, but apparently it happens!


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## PostCanyon (Jun 5, 2008)

I too am worried about my brand new '08 66 ATA...first ride and it is rattling/clanking terribly at the top of the stroke. Also seeping a good bit of oil from left leg seal and out through air valve at top of left leg...any thought/suggestions?? Thanks!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

PostCanyon said:


> I too am worried about my brand new '08 66 ATA...first ride and it is rattling/clanking terribly at the top of the stroke. Also seeping a good bit of oil from left leg seal and out through air valve at top of left leg...any thought/suggestions?? Thanks!


Call marzocchi? Just a thought.


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## PostCanyon (Jun 5, 2008)

I guess that is my next step, but I thought the point of you hosting this thread was to provide material suggestions online without having to leave voicemails or wait on hold.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

PostCanyon said:


> I guess that is my next step, but I thought the point of you hosting this thread was to provide material suggestions online without having to leave voicemails or wait on hold.


Your fork is brand new so I would not recommend doing any work yourself so you can take advantage of your warranty. This forum helps out people that a lot of times have no warranty or want to tune and tweak there fork. I was just being direct and too the piont, excuse me. ...I am slammed with work that doesn't require a computer.

661-257-6630


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

Hey SR, any word on a Marzocchi 29er fork? 

I'm delayed in getting a Fox and since I have to wait, might as well wait for a Marzocchi.

Also a tech question. I just put a new 66 on a glory for a customer and the handle for the new quick axle thingy ends up in the 5 oclock position if viewing from the drive side. Any way to adjust where it ends up? I don't want to crank on it any harder.


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## xcbikeman (Sep 28, 2005)

Canuckxc said:


> Feels great, but still makes that awful noise when I rock it back and forth with the front brake on.


Greetings. Mine have about 40hours and make a similar clanking sound over small bumps/roots ... comes from the PAR/SFA side. Air pressures are fine and fork works great. I can live with the rattle if this is nermal. If not I'll send to Marz CA for warranty repair. Cheers


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

It is a ratcheting system. turn it until it clicks and put it in any position you want


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

Mtn. Biker123 said:


> It is a ratcheting system. turn it until it clicks and put it in any position you want


It's threaded, the ratchet i just to keep it from backing off, I can't turn it backwards to the correct position because it isn't tight and I can't go any further tightening it. Unless I am totally missing something.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

dwnhlldav said:


> It's threaded, the ratchet i just to keep it from backing off, I can't turn it backwards to the correct position because it isn't tight and I can't go any further tightening it. Unless I am totally missing something.


I think what he meant is that once it is completely threaded you can keep turning it clockwise to leave it in the position you want (the axle won't move further, just the handle will "ratchet" )


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## horseonthefly (Mar 19, 2007)

Unless the axle is bad like mine was. It wouldn't ratchet no matter how tight I cranked it, in which case you need to call marz and see about getting another one. How it should work is when it gets tight enough the handle will ratchet on around to wherever you want it (in the same direction you turn it to tighten it). It basically has a type of clutch in it that breaks loose whenever it gets enough torque on it.


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

horseonthefly said:


> Unless the axle is bad like mine was. It wouldn't ratchet no matter how tight I cranked it, in which case you need to call marz and see about getting another one. How it should work is when it gets tight enough the handle will ratchet on around to wherever you want it (in the same direction you turn it to tighten it). It basically has a type of clutch in it that breaks loose whenever it gets enough torque on it.


Think I'll have to get the customer a new axle. Thanks.


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

crisillo said:


> I think what he meant is that once it is completely threaded you can keep turning it clockwise to leave it in the position you want (the axle won't move further, just the handle will "ratchet" )


Yup.... saw in action a couple of those.

It'd be nice if Tom could tell how to adjust those as two axles didn't ratchet with the same strength on the same fork. One of them was scary tight to ratchet.


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## jarre74 (Aug 20, 2006)

I have 2006 Marzocchi Marathon SL, I bought it last summer from Germany in my summer vacation. I was happy with the fork, it was light enough and it operated ok. Until few weeks ago, something happend when I was riding. There was no rebound anymore. I went home, and opened the fork, this is what I found:








The "lung" of TST cartridge has torn away from under that aluminium sleeve.
I live in Finland, the little country between Sweden and Russia (sorry my bad english!).
I contact the local importer of Marzocchi, they wont help me because I have bought the fork from Germany. 
I paid well enough money of the fork. Now all I can do is to buy new fork. You can guess it wont be Marzocchi. Bad quality, and no support for the end user, is this all Marzocchi has to offer?


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

In this post, Tom from Zoke claims it's replaceable. Some in-depth discussion of the shortcomings of the design are discussed here.

You will also find some commentary about the attitude others see about the company's support. Some things are going in the right direction, while there are still major bridges to be crossed on their end (in response to your comment about their end support).


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## macadam (Apr 4, 2006)

why don't you try to contact Cosmic Sports. They are the guys that take care of Marzocchi in Germany. I guess that if you would pay the shipment costs which should not be that much (~17 Euro shipping a fork from Germany to Finland) they would look at your fork and replace the parts if they are under warranty. As far as I know they are good guys and will take care of you.

Adrian


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## jarre74 (Aug 20, 2006)

macadam --> 
Thanks! I send email to Cosmic Sports, lets see what happens.

I have bad feelings even if I get the cartridge repaired ... there is nothing which guarantees that the new lung or new TST cartridge wont fail with the same way, am I right? 
Couple of times I had to remove air from the cartridge... very frustrating, where the air can go inside the cartridge?!


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## macadam (Apr 4, 2006)

Well, I guess nobody will give you that guaranty...

Unlike many other people I was lucky with the TST5 damper. Yes, I have the same fork as you, a Marathon SL '06 and I didn't have any problem with it at all. I did bleed the blander once, just for changing the damper oil, not that it failed. I really like the fork, especially if you play around with the air pressures. Also I can say that I'm riding the fork quite hard, well hard for a 100-120mm hardtail. I raced with it, crash loads, did jumps, and it hold up well.

What I want to say is that even if there are plenty of reports about the TST system not working there are also plenty out there that work, like with many other system. Just give it another chance and see what happen.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

macadam said:


> Well, I guess nobody will give you that guaranty...
> 
> Unlike many other people I was lucky with the TST5 damper.


Even though it worked like it was supposed to, my TST5 damper was crap. It wasn't that it tore or blew-up, it was that compared to a fork with a good compression-blowoff, it was effectively crap compared to forks with much better compression control (my new reba for example). It didn't matter that it was working fine (I changed the oil a few times), it simply wasn't a good damping system. An older marathon with HSCV would kick it's a$$ I'm sure (in my case, an old Z150 cartridge kicked the butt of the TST5 in my all-mountain).


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## macadam (Apr 4, 2006)

I don't want to start arguing or trying to convince people on any system, but for me the Marathon SL performed better than the Reba I had before. I think it is unfair to say a system is "crap". Each of us like the feeling of a damper, others like a different damper. Of course, there are better dampers out there, especially for longer travel forks. 

But for me, the Marathon takes the big hist better than the Reba. Also it is a lot more plush in rock gardens and since it doesn't bob as much I don't really need the lockout, unless I'm pedaling out of the saddle. 

Moreover, the damper is not the only part in a fork, especially the new air forks. In a fork like the Marathon (or any Doppio Air Marzocchi forks) you have 4 air chambers and each of them plays a role. 

I ride many forks (not as many as I would like ) and each of them have the ups and downs. And if one fork didn't work for me doesn't means that is bad, is just that my ridding style needs a different feel. 

Cheers,
Adrian


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## Warp (May 24, 2004)

Jayem said:


> (in my case, an old Z150 cartridge kicked the butt of the TST5 in my all-mountain).


Same here...


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I rode my old HSCV X-Fly 100 next to my friend's TST Marathon and the results were well in the favor of the X-Fly. Better utilization of the travel, by far.

Just because you are doing ok with your TST doesn't mean others have done as well. What is the line for declaring a product a lemon for you? 5% bad? 10% And even outside of the performance issues, it is usually a matter of WHEN it goes out on you. It can be a few months or a few years, who knows, but many were blowing theirs from an early stage of ownership and then repeatedly. We also know Zoke wasn't taking care of many people when they were blowing and some people inconsistently were being taken care of.

The damper was an expensive approach to the SSV, with a bit more adjustability. Nothing more. Perhaps it takes hits better because of the fixed orifice?


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## jarre74 (Aug 20, 2006)

Here´s the deal:

New TST cartridge: 157$ + shipping 32$ = 189$ 

Repair of old TST cartridge: 
shipping 37$, repair 79$ - 95$, shipping to Finland 32$ = 148$ --> 164$

New cartridge costs 25$ - 41$ more than repair of the old cartridge.

The old TST cartridge went broke during 40 miles marathon race (dont laugh) here in Finland . At end of the race there was a few miles asphalt before the finish. At the asphalt I put the TST to the mode locked. This caused the damage of the TST cartridges "lung". I didn´t hit any obstacles.  The pressure in the TST leg was 0 PSI. 

I´m afraid the new or repaired cartridge wont be any long ager than the old. :madman:


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## ledude (Feb 12, 2004)

*ATTN Marzocchi Tech Dept:: ISsues w/ 55 Tst2*

Hello Marzocchi Tech Dept,

just a quick question...how long did it take you guys to break the fork in. I've heard that this fork takes a little bit of time to break in but I've been on mine for about 60 mi. on some pretty rocky stuff and it still seems as stiff as the day I got it. And yes, I've twisted out the adjustment knob out on the bottom of the right fork leg, (it got plusher) but the thing is still stiff as hell, I've even decreased the air pressure below the recommended amount for my weight...

So what's the word, am I being impatient and need to ride the sucker harder, and longer before it gets more plush or is this just how the fork is? Thanks.

Update::

well, I just called tech support at Marzocchi USA, they told me that I should try running the fork with no air at all. Sounds strange since the tech manual recommends at least 40-60psi for my weight...I don't think I've even bottomed out the fork yet.

Thing is, I've owned Marzocchi forks before and they tend to break in by now (60+ mile mark). This thing still runs super stiff...I dont know man, I have my doubts as to the validity of Marzocchi Tech Support telling me that the solution is to not run any air at all, it contradicts what the tech manual states.

Any other suggestions? input?


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## Sushi_1001 (May 29, 2008)

Does someone have instructions on how to change out the Seals for a 2007 All Mountain II Fork ???


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## Dirty D (Nov 12, 2004)

*Quick plug out to Mike and Gideon at Marzocchi...*

I have a 2008 66RC3 which has been a fantastic fork, and I've been riding it since mid February but as of late it developed a significant amount of play in the bushings.

I sent the fork in last week and I spoke to Gideon at Marz yesterday after missing a call from Mike earlier that day, regarding the issues that I was having with the fork. He went down the list of things that they were gonna replace and warranty.

I was stoked to hear that all will be well and the 3 year warranty rawks...

Thanks again Gideon and Mike for being on the ball and getting my fork repaired so quickly.

D


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Dirty D said:


> I have a 2008 66RC3 which has been a fantastic fork, and I've been riding it since mid February but as of late it developed a significant amount of play in the bushings.
> 
> I sent the fork in last week and I spoke to Gideon at Marz yesterday after missing a call from Mike earlier that day, regarding the issues that I was having with the fork. He went down the list of things that they were gonna replace and warranty.
> 
> ...


Very good to hear. An additional question- did they pay for the return shipping? The reason I ask is because they claim to be paying for returns.


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## Dirty D (Nov 12, 2004)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Very good to hear. An additional question- did they pay for the return shipping? The reason I ask is because they claim to be paying for returns.


JC, it was actually a walk-in. A friend of mine lives in the area and he was kind enough to drop the fork off for me, and pick it up later that day after it was repaired.

Either way great service and out of the dozen or so times that I've dealt with the fellas in the service dept they've always taken care of me.

Can't remember though wether they picked up the tab for return shipping in my past dealings.

D


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## brent_e (Jul 16, 2008)

Hi everyone,
first post here in a LONG time. I've got a 2002 shiver SC and the preload adjusters are moving up and down when the fork moves through it's travel. any ideas how to fix this??

Thanks

Brent


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

brent_e said:


> Hi everyone,
> first post here in a LONG time. I've got a 2002 shiver SC and the preload adjusters are moving up and down when the fork moves through it's travel. any ideas how to fix this??
> 
> Thanks
> ...


It's from some wear on the top caps. You will need to remove the preload knob to expose the e-clip, remove the e-clip and stick these shims on and reinstall the e-clip. Normally one set will fix it.

The part number is #850765/C.

MTD


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## William42 (Oct 29, 2006)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Very good to hear. An additional question- did they pay for the return shipping? The reason I ask is because they claim to be paying for returns.


They paid for my return shipping - maybe because I work at a shop, but I'm pretty sure the guy who helped me told me they were gonna pay return shipping before I even mentioned I work at a shop.

I'll send a plug out for Tom - big help with tuning, and pointed me in the direction of a pretty helpful dude there.

Heres a question - it might already have been asked, but the roco tst is a shimmed damper yes? is it possible to play with the shims without sending it to push? I'd love to get it set up as a backup shock, and from everything I hear they're great shocks to set to your own preferences (ie custom tune)


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## brent_e (Jul 16, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> It's from some wear on the top caps. You will need to remove the preload knob to expose the e-clip, remove the e-clip and stick these shims on and reinstall the e-clip. Normally one set will fix it.
> 
> The part number is #850765/C.
> 
> MTD


That's awesome, thank you! i'm glad that the fork isn't messed up!


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## mr636 (Jul 18, 2008)

righto, lets see if you can help me 

i bought some brand new 888 WC's off my bike shop. i beleive they came off a large kona stab.
now i weigh 80kgs, and with everything backed off, the forks are WAY too stiff. the first 4" of travel is tolerable (still stiffer than i would like though), but the forks ramp up crazy after that. the bike is shithouse in the fast rocky, rooty sections because it just deflects rather than absorbs the hits. i can huck the hell out of it, and only use 6" of travel...
ive been onto the local distributor and the bike shop, and they all say its the spring. but they are suppsoed to ship with a medium for 75-85kg riders... and i cant find replacement springs anywhere :madman: 
sooo confused, please help!


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

mr636 said:


> righto, lets see if you can help me
> 
> i bought some brand new 888 WC's off my bike shop. i beleive they came off a large kona stab.
> now i weigh 80kgs, and with everything backed off, the forks are WAY too stiff. the first 4" of travel is tolerable (still stiffer than i would like though), but the forks ramp up crazy after that. the bike is shithouse in the fast rocky, rooty sections because it just deflects rather than absorbs the hits. i can huck the hell out of it, and only use 6" of travel...
> ...


How much sag are you getting?


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## mr636 (Jul 18, 2008)

bugger all. like 10mm at best.


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## mr636 (Jul 18, 2008)

bugger all. like 10mm at best.

sorry trying to get used to this forum....


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## Sneeck (Jun 13, 2007)

Yep, add another Roco TST R Air to the list of broken shock's without 1 month of riding time. Yesterday the rebound failed on me, will send it back to my lbs tomorrow and see what he can do. Glad that I got a dhx as a spare, could be a looooong wait before getting it back.

Mind you that I did send the shock back after I purchased it to be inspected and lubed like it should. All in all I think this shock has about 15 day's riding time, all in dry weather.


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## nejc10 (Jul 23, 2008)

Hello could some one help me tune up my 66 sl ATA 2007. I have 190lbs. 

PAR (bottom left): ? PSI
Top left chamber: ? PSI
Top RIGHT chamber: ? PSI

THANK


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## RowlettRider (Jun 16, 2008)

I tried to read all 14 pages to make sure this hasn't already been asked, but I have a EXR Pro (coil springs) that I recently changed the oil in. I bought this fork lightly used, and I noticed before the change, and after that the fork makes a clicking sound on the end of each compression before it rebounds. Drives me nuts, and makes me think something is loose inside the fork. I didn't see anything loose while I was in there, and the bottom retaining nuts on the fork legs are snug. Any ideas what that noise is coming from?

Thanks in advance.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

RowlettRider said:


> I tried to read all 14 pages to make sure this hasn't already been asked, but I have a EXR Pro (coil springs) that I recently changed the oil in. I bought this fork lightly used, and I noticed before the change, and after that the fork makes a clicking sound on the end of each compression before it rebounds. Drives me nuts, and makes me think something is loose inside the fork. I didn't see anything loose while I was in there, and the bottom retaining nuts on the fork legs are snug. Any ideas what that noise is coming from?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


From the sound of it, it is just the valve opening and closing. I don't think there is miuch that can be done really. It just the valve closing and creating the rebound damping needed.


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## mtbnj (Mar 26, 2004)

I have a 100mm 2001 XFly fork and I would like to take the travel down to 80mm. Is that possible?

Thanks!
Tom


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## fassie (Dec 30, 2006)

Hi great that you are offering this service. I have been riding an 2007 rc2x for some time now and have some minor setup problems. I run very little airpressure in only 1 side [rc side].
I just pump in about 8 strokes of my shox pomp. Are the springs suited for a rider whit mine weight [ 72 kg], and putting no air in the fork at all?? The compression on the bottom of the right leg [rc side] is a slow speed compression and i just run it full open. The rebound i run about 8 clics from full open, and the X compression is also full open. But this is the freeriders big dropoff button i believe. A ride a lot of downhill whit the fork and also to some northshore and some drops [up to about 10 ft max] I put the oil level on 65 mm as recommended by you on this forum and that bassicly solved the problem of not getting full travel. Now the only thing thats not perfect is the big brake bumps performance. When it,s a section longer than about 2 meters it starts to feel harder and feels like ramping up a little. I have turned the rebound full open but that did not make it better. I am coming to whistler in august and ride there for 2 weeks and do a 1 week roadtrip after that around bc. Is this the best setting for it. A have only 2 rides left over here in europe, i live in holland but we ride mostly in winterberg and bad wildbad germany. At these 2 rides i want to test some different settings for the last minute tweeks before my holiday. I hope that you have some tips for me and thanks.

Greetings dennis


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

fassie said:


> Hi great that you are offering this service. I have been riding an 2007 rc2x for some time now and have some minor setup problems. I run very little airpressure in only 1 side [rc side].
> I just pump in about 8 strokes of my shox pomp. Are the springs suited for a rider whit mine weight [ 72 kg], and putting no air in the fork at all?? The compression on the bottom of the right leg [rc side] is a slow speed compression and i just run it full open. The rebound i run about 8 clics from full open, and the X compression is also full open. But this is the freeriders big dropoff button i believe. A ride a lot of downhill whit the fork and also to some northshore and some drops [up to about 10 ft max] I put the oil level on 65 mm as recommended by you on this forum and that bassicly solved the problem of not getting full travel. Now the only thing thats not perfect is the big brake bumps performance. When it,s a section longer than about 2 meters it starts to feel harder and feels like ramping up a little. I have turned the rebound full open but that did not make it better. I am coming to whistler in august and ride there for 2 weeks and do a 1 week roadtrip after that around bc. Is this the best setting for it. A have only 2 rides left over here in europe, i live in holland but we ride mostly in winterberg and bad wildbad germany. At these 2 rides i want to test some different settings for the last minute tweeks before my holiday. I hope that you have some tips for me and thanks.
> 
> Greetings dennis


Try the fork with no air. It will not damage the fork at all. I run my RC2X with no low speed, and little high speed compression. You can adjust bottom out with the high speed, but it is better to control it with oil hieght. Try backing out your HS. This will give you a more linear feel. If you are easily bottoming, open up the fork and add 5mm of oil to each side until you get the desired bottom out performance. Note, that adding oil will also add some progression to the fork, so it is important to dial back the HS a bit. Too much oil AND too much HS = a harsh feeling fork in the last half of the travel. Dialing back the HS should help you get a better feeling out of the fork during "big brake bumps". You own probably the best fork ever made, with far more adjustments than any other fork, so you will need to experiment to get it just right for you.


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

*'07 66 Rv ETA, OEM*

Can this fork with the OEM designation get more than the advertised 160mm travel. The Marz site has it listed at 180mm of travel. I heard that the OEM were from specialized bikes that were specd at 160mm. Is there something with the internals that can be tweaked to get the 180mm? I've heard that RC2X cartridges can be used in this fork, What benefit would this be and would any of the adjustments (rebound, wind-down) be affected?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mtbnj said:


> I have a 100mm 2001 XFly fork and I would like to take the travel down to 80mm. Is that possible?
> 
> Thanks!
> Tom


No problem. You just need to add a 20mm spacer to the pumping rods on top of the top out springs.

Cheers!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tiSS'er said:


> Try the fork with no air. It will not damage the fork at all. I run my RC2X with no low speed, and little high speed compression. You can adjust bottom out with the high speed, but it is better to control it with oil hieght. Try backing out your HS. This will give you a more linear feel. If you are easily bottoming, open up the fork and add 5mm of oil to each side until you get the desired bottom out performance. Note, that adding oil will also add some progression to the fork, so it is important to dial back the HS a bit. Too much oil AND too much HS = a harsh feeling fork in the last half of the travel. Dialing back the HS should help you get a better feeling out of the fork during "big brake bumps". You own probably the best fork ever made, with far more adjustments than any other fork, so you will need to experiment to get it just right for you.


No problem running no air. The air pressure used for preload effects the beginning stroke and add a little initial friction just to the strait of air.


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## mtbnj (Mar 26, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> No problem. You just need to add a 20mm spacer to the pumping rods on top of the top out springs.
> 
> Cheers!


Is that something I can get fom Marzocchi? where can I get that?

Thanks!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

NYSNOBDRX said:


> Can this fork with the OEM designation get more than the advertised 160mm travel. The Marz site has it listed at 180mm of travel. I heard that the OEM were from specialized bikes that were specd at 160mm. Is there something with the internals that can be tweaked to get the 180mm? I've heard that RC2X cartridges can be used in this fork, What benefit would this be and would any of the adjustments (rebound, wind-down) be affected?


The only way to extend a fork with ETA is to change the cartridge. RC2X is a viable option when this is done. You can just get the rebound compression cartridge and replace the ETA. That would be the cheapest way to do it.

MTD


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The only way to extend a fork with ETA is to change the cartridge. RC2X is a viable option when this is done. You can just get the rebound compression cartridge and replace the ETA. That would be the cheapest way to do it.
> 
> MTD


So by changing to a RC2X cartridge I can get 180mm and still retain the ETA? Sorry I'm just a bit confused as to what you mean.
Are the internals in the 180mm different than the 160mm version? If possible and within reason I would like to get the full 180mm of travel from this fork but since it is a OEM I don't know if that is possible?


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

NYSNOBDRX said:


> So by changing to a RC2X cartridge I can get 180mm and still retain the ETA? Sorry I'm just a bit confused as to what you mean.
> Are the internals in the 180mm different than the 160mm version? If possible and within reason I would like to get the full 180mm of travel from this fork but since it is a OEM I don't know if that is possible?


The internal ETA cartridge is different between 160 and the 180mm. They are also different is you added a 180 RC2X cartridge....I just thought I give you that option too. Sorry for the confusion.

We actually have 180mm ETA cartridges #703814-F2. I rebuild would be needed to do this.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The only way to extend a fork with ETA is to change the cartridge. RC2X is a viable option when this is done. You can just get the rebound compression cartridge and replace the ETA. That would be the cheapest way to do it.
> 
> MTD


Tom, I'm a little confused here. The '07 66 RV ETA is listed as coming in 160 and 180mm lengths and the ETA cartridge for these two forks is the same; same part number. 703819LA/C. The compatability chart shows it works in both length forks too. So is something else restricting this guy's fork to 160?


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The internal ETA cartridge is different between 160 and the 180mm. They are also different is you added a 180 RC2X cartridge....I just thought I give you that option too. Sorry for the confusion.
> 
> We actually have 180mm ETA cartridges #703814-F2. I rebuild would be needed to do this.


Ok Thanks, Now any benefit of using the 180mm RC2X cartridge over the ETA 180mm cartridge? I assume the ETA function would be lost with the RC2X?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Tom, I'm a little confused here. The '07 66 RV ETA is listed as coming in 160 and 180mm lengths and the ETA cartridge for these two forks is the same; same part number. 703819LA/C. The compatability chart shows it works in both length forks too. So is something else restricting this guy's fork to 160?


703763LA/C = 160mm
703814LA/C = 180mm

Confused now???

Either cartridge will work in either fork but the ETA predicts extension and total travel.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

NYSNOBDRX said:


> Ok Thanks, Now any benefit of using the 180mm RC2X cartridge over the ETA 180mm cartridge? I assume the ETA function would be lost with the RC2X?


RC2 is just a pure performance option and not a climbing option like ETA is. It has compression and rebound in a cartridge form and not a SSVF form. Cartidges are better and more consistant that a SSVF pumping rod. 
That's all.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> 703763LA/C = 160mm
> 703814LA/C = 180mm
> 
> Confused now???
> ...


Heck yes I'm confused. Your extranet website listed the number I posted as the eta cartridge for both forks. Second error that I'm aware of now. It might help the dealers if they had the correct info!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Heck yes I'm confused. Your extranet website listed the number I posted as the eta cartridge for both forks. Second error that I'm aware of now. It might help the dealers if they had the correct info!


I don't know about that website but if you called and ordered the 703819LA/C part number nothing would be found, I checked it. At that piont the saleman would do what I just did and search it and give you the details I just gave you. Sorry for the confusion but it is now clear to you and that's all I can do. Make it clear.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I don't know about that website but if you called and ordered the 703819LA/C part number nothing would be found, I checked it. At that piont the saleman would do what I just did and search it and give you the details I just gave you. Sorry for the confusion but it is now clear to you and that's all I can do. Make it clear.


Yes Tom, it is now clear to me that the dealer website is not to be trusted for accuracy. What is the point of having one then?


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> RC2 is just a pure performance option and not a climbing option like ETA is. It has compression and rebound in a cartridge form and not a SSVF form. Cartidges are better and more consistant that a SSVF pumping rod.
> That's all.


Ok if I wanted to get the rebuild done with the 180mm ETA cartridges #703814-F2. How would I get this done, not sure if my lbs could do it? What would be a est cost with the rebuild and new cartridge?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Yes Tom, it is now clear to me that the dealer website is not to be trusted for accuracy. What is the point of having one then?


Not every part is under the wrong part number. At the same time, contacting us is a good way to confirm the number is right. Where are you located? 
Sorry for the miss up. I'll see what I can do to get them to update it....but I know that can be hard to do sometimes.


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## mtbnj (Mar 26, 2004)

mtbnj said:


> I have a 100mm 2001 XFly fork and I would like to take the travel down to 80mm. Is that possible?
> 
> Thanks!
> Tom


can you tell me where I can get the spacers you are talking about? Can I order them from Marzocchi?

Thanks!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

NYSNOBDRX said:


> Ok if I wanted to get the rebuild done with the 180mm ETA cartridges #703814-F2. How would I get this done, not sure if my lbs could do it? What would be a est cost with the rebuild and new cartridge?


If you are in the US call us at 661-257-6630 Ext; 131 for tech.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Not every part is under the wrong part number. At the same time, contacting us is a good way to confirm the number is right. Where are you located?
> Sorry for the miss up. I'll see what I can do to get them to update it....but I know that can be hard to do sometimes.


I actually had run ins probably with that situation several times and tech had the parts, their numbers, and viewed physical inventory while sales refused to sell them because they "didn't exist".


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> I actually had run ins probably with that situation several times and tech had the parts, their numbers, and viewed physical inventory while sales refused to sell them because they "didn't exist".


Our techs normally know the product better than anyone in the building including the sales guys. A lot of time they are just not educated enough to do a thurough search for parts unlike the techs which know all the angles, actually walk out and look and know what they are looking at. As far as the website and it's part numbers those come from Italy. We have no control and no way to change the part numbers if we, the techs, see the mistake. We are too busy to worry about someone elses job to fix it...because we have what we need right in our hands.

Sales normally refuses to sell parts to consumers. I don't think if they knew what they had and were selling a cartridge to a shop there would be an issue. Sorry for the issues but the numbers I gave above are correct.

:thumbsup:


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The only way to extend a fork with ETA is to change the cartridge. RC2X is a viable option when this is done. You can just get the rebound compression cartridge and replace the ETA. That would be the cheapest way to do it.
> 
> MTD


Yes, the travel can be modified to 180. It involves some swithching of spacers that are already in your fork. I called marzocchi about the problem, & they can walk you through the steps in modifying this fork.

This fork came off of some kona coilers.

Contact Marzocchi @ 800-227-5579 or 661 -257-6630 , ext 3 for tech dept.

*This is the response I got when I contacted the place where I purchased the forks.*


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## MTBXRacing (May 17, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The only way to extend a fork with ETA is to change the cartridge. RC2X is a viable option when this is done. You can just get the rebound compression cartridge and replace the ETA. That would be the cheapest way to do it.
> 
> MTD


Yes, the travel can be modified to 180. It involves some swithching of spacers that are already in your fork. I called marzocchi about the problem, & they can walk you through the steps in modifying this fork.

This fork came off of some kona coilers.

Contact Marzocchi @ 800-227-5579 or 661 -257-6630 , ext 3 for tech dept.

*This is the reply I got when I contacted the place where I purchased the forks??*


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## mr636 (Jul 18, 2008)

> righto, lets see if you can help me
> 
> i bought some brand new 888 WC's off my bike shop. i beleive they came off a large kona stab.
> now i weigh 80kgs, and with everything backed off, the forks are WAY too stiff. the first 4" of travel is tolerable (still stiffer than i would like though), but the forks ramp up crazy after that. the bike is shithouse in the fast rocky, rooty sections because it just deflects rather than absorbs the hits. i can huck the hell out of it, and only use 6" of travel...
> ...


anyone??


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## SlickShoe671 (Jan 23, 2008)

Hello,

I might have a problem with my 66 RCV. It came with my 2008 Demo 7 1 that I pick up a few weeks ago. After my 5th or 6th ride I noticed a sloshing fluid sound when the fork I compressed. The shop said its not normal and to bring it in. They checked it out and then said thats just how it is and that as long as it still works its o.k.. Is this true? I also noticed when I had the fork removed, when I turn it over I hear fluid running down the fork. Now the comp/rebn nob is stuck. Any advice?

Thanks


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## other aardvark (Feb 11, 2006)

Man , this is a brave step for an importer to take, actually admitting there is a problem and letting people vent there anger and then offering practical solutions.

If Manitou had done this a couple of years ago regarding the SPV fork debacle then I may be willing to give them a second chance. As it stands now, myself and most of my mates will never buy Manitou products again. Especially when the Australian importer actually blamed the customers for failures and were cheeky enough to charge for the repair despite overwhelming evidence of recurring problems 

Obviously Im still angry.


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## Zell (Jul 29, 2007)

I have an '06 Jr. T. My adjuster cap fell off on some runs after a fall I am assuming. Any way I can get one sent to me? I dunno how much it would cost for an itty bitty part like that.


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## fassie (Dec 30, 2006)

tiSS'er said:


> Try the fork with no air. It will not damage the fork at all. I run my RC2X with no low speed, and little high speed compression. You can adjust bottom out with the high speed, but it is better to control it with oil hieght. Try backing out your HS. This will give you a more linear feel. If you are easily bottoming, open up the fork and add 5mm of oil to each side until you get the desired bottom out performance. Note, that adding oil will also add some progression to the fork, so it is important to dial back the HS a bit. Too much oil AND too much HS = a harsh feeling fork in the last half of the travel. Dialing back the HS should help you get a better feeling out of the fork during "big brake bumps". You own probably the best fork ever made, with far more adjustments than any other fork, so you will need to experiment to get it just right for you.


He i ran the fork this weekend whit no air and played around whit the rebound and hsc and lsc and i now get full travel and very good performance on brakebumps. Only when riding northshore type things a need some pressure in the fork otherwise its way to soft.
I only had a bottomout when i did a 11 foot roadgap and had a little nose lander. But when a kranked up the hsc that was solved to. Now my fork is ready for whistler.

Anyone riding the week of crankworks or the week after that????


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

SlickShoe671 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I might have a problem with my 66 RCV. It came with my 2008 Demo 7 1 that I pick up a few weeks ago. After my 5th or 6th ride I noticed a sloshing fluid sound when the fork I compressed. The shop said its not normal and to bring it in. They checked it out and then said thats just how it is and that as long as it still works its o.k.. Is this true? I also noticed when I had the fork removed, when I turn it over I hear fluid running down the fork. Now the comp/rebn nob is stuck. Any advice?
> 
> Thanks


The oil sound inside the fork is normal. It's an open bath fork so oil can move around, esspecially if you flip the fork over you hear all the oil flowing up to the top end of the stanchions, it's completely normal. Just becareful when you flip the bike over, it will take a few seconds for the oil to flowback down and into the pumping rods.

You adjusters are stuck. They must have been cranked fully in one direction or the other. The will bottom out and be hard to get rotating after this. I would recommend checking the setting...is it in the full rebound setting or the slowest? Full compression or rebound. Counter clockwise is going towards the minimum setting, clock-wise is towards the maximum setting. Base trying to turn the adjuster on this info.

I hope this helps.

MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Zell said:


> I have an '06 Jr. T. My adjuster cap fell off on some runs after a fall I am assuming. Any way I can get one sent to me? I dunno how much it would cost for an itty bitty part like that.


Which itty bitty part is it. Is it on top, on the bottom??? Give me more info. We can go from there.

MTD


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

the Marzocchi 66RCV that came on my (un) Lucky-7 leaked oil all day from the left tube. is this ok? seems janky.

i was up at mammoth and the bike mech up there has obviously seen a ton of them. i took it in there and he didn't think it was the upper seal, but thought it could be the lower / inner seal (i don't know how this fork is built). 

i checked the air pressure in both tubes (with a Marzocchi shock pump) and neither registered. i put 10 pounds in each.. seemed stiff. nowhere near the good response i was getting prior to the leakage. 

anyway, i am concerned. the rebound went to $hit after. that. 

the stanchions are SPOTTLESS. the bike has only been ridden 20x or less. nothing HUGE either (the drops at mammoth only).

any thots on this?

and one other thing (lols).. whose brilliant idea was it to have the red plastic knob (compression) be held on by an O-RING? wtf? that never even made the first ride! it literally fell off riding in the back of my truck! nothing even touched it! i've tried to put it back on, but it just falls off. very very janky. laffable. i now adjust using that micro-knob.


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## SlickShoe671 (Jan 23, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The oil sound inside the fork is normal. It's an open bath fork so oil can move around, esspecially if you flip the fork over you hear all the oil flowing up to the top end of the stanchions, it's completely normal. Just becareful when you flip the bike over, it will take a few seconds for the oil to flowback down and into the pumping rods.
> 
> You adjusters are stuck. They must have been cranked fully in one direction or the other. The will bottom out and be hard to get rotating after this. I would recommend checking the setting...is it in the full rebound setting or the slowest? Full compression or rebound. Counter clockwise is going towards the minimum setting, clock-wise is towards the maximum setting. Base trying to turn the adjuster on this info.
> 
> ...


It sure did, thanks...


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mild beast said:


> the Marzocchi 66RCV that came on my (un) Lucky-7 leaked oil all day from the left tube. is this ok? seems janky.
> 
> i was up at mammoth and the bike mech up there has obviously seen a ton of them. i took it in there and he didn't think it was the upper seal, but thought it could be the lower / inner seal (i don't know how this fork is built).
> 
> ...


Oil leaking out of the fork is obviously NOT ok. It would need to come here to have the seal checked and replaced. It would only be warrantiable if it was installed incorrectly by the factory or by us here in the US office. The upper seal is just a dust wiper, the one underneath is the oil seal. It doesn't sound like the mechanic knows his way around our forks very well....

Call for an RA# - 661-257-6630

The rebound doesn't work because there is no oil in the leg most likely due to the leak. Continuing to ride this fork can potentilly damage internal parts.

As far as the compression knob, it works perfectly fine if it is installed correctly. It needs a little grease on the o-ring and then the knob needs to be pushed on slowly making sure the o-ring stays in the groove on the foot nut and the groove in the cap.


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

thanks. i'll call. 

i am screwed for this weekend tho.  F!CK


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## mpvanger (Jan 25, 2008)

*'06 Drop Off SL adjustability*

I have a 2006 Marzocchi Drop Off SL that came stock on my '06 Specialized Big Hit FSR 1. I have now ridden it for long enough to get a sense for what I want as far as suspension settings, but I have realized that nowhere in Marzocchi's literature, do they give the specs for adjustbility of the SL model. I assume they are similar to the Drop Off III or IV, but I don't want to just start bleeding air, and turning knobs without knowing what I'm doing first. Can anyone help? Thanks.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mpvanger said:


> I have a 2006 Marzocchi Drop Off SL that came stock on my '06 Specialized Big Hit FSR 1. I have now ridden it for long enough to get a sense for what I want as far as suspension settings, but I have realized that nowhere in Marzocchi's literature, do they give the specs for adjustbility of the SL model. I assume they are similar to the Drop Off III or IV, but I don't want to just start bleeding air, and turning knobs without knowing what I'm doing first. Can anyone help? Thanks.


I'll answer this on your "thread" as well.

I need a little bit more info but will give you a few things to try regardless. This fork got speced numberous ways and there are a few versions of it out there.

Q1) Are there any knobs on the bottom of the leg? If so then you have a rebound adjuster, at least.

Are there air valves on top of both legs? Most likely yes. If so you should take a shock pump and screw it on and note the pressure. Once you have noted the pressure then I want you to let all the air out. Does the fork compress all the way? If it did it is a 100% air fork. If it dd not then it's not an SL and has a spring in it. Most likely it will compress all the way.

Now pressure it back up to the noted pressure.

Now I can help you with settings and getting 'er dialed in! :thumbsup:


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

ok .. just shipped. says it'll be there thursday the 31st. if i can get that back by the 13th of Aug, i can put it back on and get my jankity a$$ bike in the shop for a tune up.

here is my concern... (some background first... a bio, you may need a barf bucket)

i weigh 160 pounds. i ride hard, but not like a 20 year old (i am 36). i go off most chit, but not the biggest chit. that bike has seen exactly 13 days of riding, the non-Mammoth days consisted of a single ride:

Mammoth 5 days
Kernville 8

so that's 13 days of riding and the seal is toasted. i am very leery of what is going on, considering the use the fork/bike has gone through, my size / how big i go. if i am going to have to send the fork in for 2 weeks after every 13 rides, that is not acceptable. i either want to upgrade the fork or get some sort of monetary compensation. having that thing go out on a trip is MISERABLE. like terror. like being at Disneyland and not being able to go on the rides (as a kid that is, now i am glad not to go on them). 

most of the write-ups i've read on the fork have been negative. in fact, i haven't read a good one yet (of course people typically b!tch rather than praise). my summer is totally mapped out, all on the biking thing. all reservations are made, vacation time scheduled and coordinated with other folks. i had to CANCEL this weekend at Mammoth with a friend. the Brew Festival (not that i'da got much time in, but.. ). 

so what gives with these seals? was it a bad batch? are there lots of being sent in? how are the replacements holding up? yeah, i am concerned. summer is short, etc. i can't keep sending that in.

the people i spoke with at Marzocchi this morning were very helpful. cool. and thanks. hopefully this is the end of the matter. AND they can get the red knob to stay on as well. heheh. 

okthenby,

- m. b.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mild beast said:


> ok .. just shipped. says it'll be there thursday the 31st. if i can get that back by the 13th of Aug, i can put it back on and get my jankity a$$ bike in the shop for a tune up.
> 
> here is my concern... (some background first... a bio, you may need a barf bucket)
> 
> ...


Do me a favor and PM e your RA#.

As far as this being alarming and a cronic problem with our forks this is not the case. Normally the seals are the last thing to fail. I'll check it out. :thumbsup:

Talk to you soon. 
MTD


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## Simon (Nov 16, 2004)

Hi, i have a 07 AM 1, i can use the 140mm of travel only, the last 20-30mm can't be compressed, how can i fix it? thx.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Simon said:


> Hi, i have a 07 AM 1, i can use the 140mm of travel only, the last 20-30mm can't be compressed, how can i fix it? thx.


It could be a few things. Have you ever had your fork serviced or is it new? Have you had the oil changed?

Here a a few things you can do to check it....you are comfortable working on your fork.

With the fork on the bike, First pop the ETA cap off of the top. With a freewheel tool loosen the eta topcap. You should now be able to compress your fork, do this slowly. Can you get full travel? If not then you can pop the TST cap off and press the air valve. Becareful when you do this, let the air pressure out first with it extended, and then once this pressure is out lean on the bike, and with a rag wrapped around the TST side of the fork, push the air valve in again, It will leak oil out. Do your best, moving slowly is best, and keep it clean. Once your fork compresses fully you can reextend the fork and add 15psi of air back into the TST cartridge. Reattach the ETA side of the fork and reinstall your caps.

If that wasn't it, you have too much oil in the ETA side of your fork....hmmmm 20-30mm short of travel...if you pulled aprox. 20cc's out of that side you would be very close. Try that and go. I think you could even take a straw, worm it through the spring, cover the end of the straw and remove it. Try it once, test the fork, if it's still short, try it again.

Garage tips!!:thumbsup:

Let us know what happens!


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## zahgurim (Aug 12, 2005)

Hi Tom!

Please check your pm's. Am looking for some non-warranty spare parts.


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

Hi Tom.

Do you know when and where I can get some softer springs for 08 888 and 66 forks, Aussie distro can not help, tf tuned says they have been on order for 9 months. Are they coming?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

j5ive said:


> Hi Tom.
> 
> Do you know when and where I can get some softer springs for 08 888 and 66 forks, Aussie distro can not help, tf tuned says they have been on order for 9 months. Are they coming?


We have 20 pieces of the 888 soft 5.4kg spring in stock here, we got them a week ago. part # 5141861. Thay are steel, not Ti. Not sure on Ti springs.


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

Great TOM! I have customers waiting for 8 months. 

Can I buy 2 and get sent to Australia via air freight?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

j5ive said:


> Great TOM! I have customers waiting for 8 months.
> 
> Can I buy 2 and get sent to Australia via air freight?


I have two left.(edit to say, ATA cartridges, not springs.), We have 10 springs left after only one day!!!

What's up with the Austrialian distributor? They should be getting some too.

We still need more ourselves.


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## WildJackal (Jun 19, 2006)

*2006 66RC2X 170mm*

2006 66RC2X 170mm

Marz recommends 195/195cc for a 90kg rider. I am 106kg.
1) What should the oil height/level be? Is this measured from the top of the stanchion threads with the springs out, lowers pushed all the way up, damper shafts all the way down?
2) Should I run a heavier oil for my weight?
3) Spring recommendations? I do light freeride.

Thanks


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

They are changing distro, old distro doesn't have them and I have had them ordered there since before christmas. New distro has no parts yet. Obviously the old distro doesn't give a **** as they are about to ditch it.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

WildJackal said:


> 2006 66RC2X 170mm
> 
> Marz recommends 195/195cc for a 90kg rider. I am 106kg.
> 1) What should the oil height/level be? Is this measured from the top of the stanchion threads with the springs out, lowers pushed all the way up, damper shafts all the way down?
> ...


If you measure from the top down springs out, fully compressed, the oil hieght should be 60mm from the top. This is a maximum hieght.

As far as heavier oil, I don't think you'll need it, the adjustment range is good with that fork and you can just run some compression to help you out.

As far as springs, You can just use some air preload, say 10-12 psi and that'll firm it up for you.

The main thing you want to do for your weight (233lb / 106kg) is make sure your oil hieght is set right. Even if that 60mm hieght still allows to to bottom-out your fork, I would recommend another 5cc's or 5mm(35mm forks are equal cc to hieght). So, if you bottom out too much add 5 cc's and reset your air pressures.

Have fun!!


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

got my fork back the other day. VERY fast turnaround. 

seems stiff / sticky. maybe it needs to get broken in. i'll be in mammoth this weekend. we shall see. 

is there a general or recommended amount of air pressure to have in each tube? if so, please let me know. 

the people at Marzocchi were helpful the whole time. very quick turnaround. i would like to know what was wrong (like "Yeah, your seal was blown. No idea why that happened, etc."

thanks guys.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mild beast said:


> got my fork back the other day. VERY fast turnaround.
> 
> seems stiff / sticky. maybe it needs to get broken in. i'll be in mammoth this weekend. we shall see.
> 
> ...


Hello,
I inspected your fork personally and didn't really find anything. I only noticed a small dust build up on one side of the fork which really didn't constitute a leaking seal. We changed them anyways and reassembled the fork. If we would have seen oil running down the back of the lower assembly we would have said, "yeah, that's a leak". But we only saw a very minimal amount of anything.

It that all you saw too? Were you wiping off the oil running down the leg every ride? Even before it was rebuilt the oil hieghts were good so it didn't seem that much oil was lost.

You have a spring in one side of that fork, on the right side. So I would add psi to that side too, maybe 15psi...Check it and go from there. You can get a different effect with the air pressure on the non-spring side too but you'll end up running higher air pressure and it won't be a supple.

I wish I could tell you it was this or that but a lot of times it's almost impossible to see the problem. After disassembly there is oil everywhere so it is difficult to trouble shot after the fact. Let us know how it rides.

See you in Mammoth this weekend, I ride a white V-10, white proto 888 RC3 and look like a blur when I ride:thumbsup:


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

i was only wiping oil off the stanchion (not the fork tube). it lost probably a fluid ounce of oil. 

i have no problem believing there was nothing wrong with the seals. that's what the dude in the bike shop at mammoth said as well. 

i guess at some point in a fork's life, it just sheds 'excess' oil. 

i'll be on the KHS Un-Lucky 7 with a Marz.. well, you know. heh. prolly get there are 10-11am on fri. i'll ride sat as well. maybe sunday as well. we'll see how the camping goes. i've never camped in mammoth proper (always at Deadman's Summit areas). 

again, thanks for the work and quick TAT.


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## zahgurim (Aug 12, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I have two left.(edit to say, ATA cartridges, not springs.), We have 10 springs left after only one day!!!
> 
> What's up with the Austrialian distributor? They should be getting some too.
> 
> We still need more ourselves.


I'll take one of those 888SL ATA carts. 

Shoot me a PM/email with a price.

Thanks,
Michael


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

zahgurim said:


> I'll take one of those 888SL ATA carts.
> 
> Shoot me a PM/email with a price.
> 
> ...


Looks like they already got consumed on repairs. :eekster: 
I'd call here and ask sales about them. 
661-257-6630


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

Hey Tom, thanks for the spring help. I have an issue with another fork that the Aussie guys have not been able to help with- its been back twice with no real change.

Fork is an 07 4x 80mm brian lopes edition. It feels like a$$ basically. The rebound is so fast it feels like the lowers are going to snap off. There is also several clicks and clunks in the travel. I have personally tried heavy oil (up to 20w) to slow the thing down, but nothing works. Its as if the air is the deciding factor and as soon as you add anything the fork turns into a pogo stick. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## stanima (Jun 7, 2008)

Tom,
Thanks for your service in this forum.

I just got off the phone with 2 questions for Marzocchi Tech. I didn't like the answers so I am looking for a second opinion. 

Question #1:
I have an OEM 2007 Super T with springs that are way too stiff for me. I weigh 165 lbs. I took a spring out of the left side and it runs just about perfect. It is about 350mm in length and the wire is about 2.7mm in diameter. I asked him if I could get a pair of softer springs approximating the rate of the single now in the fork. He informed me there should be 2 springs in each side (That could explain the occasional clunk and rattle coming from the fork. doh.), and there is no way he knows what the rate of my current springs are so that we can determine what I need. He said I should just pull the remaining spring out of the left leg and run one side.

I would really rather use springs in both legs. Your thoughts?

Question #2:
I have an OEM 2008 55 ATA2. I would like to check the oil levels. How asked him how I go about it. His answer was to pull the top caps, remove a grub screw from a gold knob blah blah (I didn't write it down but I will figure it out once in there). Then he explained the oil has to be drained and measured by volume. It should be 30cc's in each leg. 

Your thoughts?

Thanks,

Stan


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## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

Tom... I need some guidance...

08 888 ATA: I bottomed out very hard a couple times this weekend. Pressures were good at beginning of the day (125PAR/50TOP). The seals keeping the air chambers independent of each other are gone. Pressures are equalizing.

I just ordered the kit, but have yet to tear into this leg on this fork so I don't know what to expect. Any words of wisdom? I thought I had seen a writeup somewhere... anyone care to point me in the right direction? (Not Renegade's PAR removal thread.... I'm gonna give it another chance!!)


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

GLIDE said:


> Tom... I need some guidance...
> 
> 08 888 ATA: I bottomed out very hard a couple times this weekend. Pressures were good at beginning of the day (125PAR/50TOP). The seals keeping the air chambers independent of each other are gone. Pressures are equalizing.
> 
> I just ordered the kit, but have yet to tear into this leg on this fork so I don't know what to expect. Any words of wisdom? I thought I had seen a writeup somewhere... anyone care to point me in the right direction? (Not Renegade's PAR removal thread.... I'm gonna give it another chance!!)


Uh, why not Renegade's PAR piston removal thread? You have to remove the PAR piston to change the o-rings; that procedure I wrote will tell you what you need to know, then change the inner and outer o-rings, and re-insert the piston assembly. Am I missing something?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

stanima said:


> Tom,
> Thanks for your service in this forum.
> 
> I just got off the phone with 2 questions for Marzocchi Tech. I didn't like the answers so I am looking for a second opinion.
> ...


He was just about spot on. Here's the deal, 2007 OEM Super T had only two springs, one in each side (that's the part he got wrong), Due to the layout of this fork there is not a spring that will go into it, say like a 06' Super T spring. So what you have, is all you can do. You have air preload caps and that's a way to tweak the rate from where it is to where it was. No other options, no way to get two softer springs so you can have a dual set-up again.

As far s having two springs, one on each side, in it, it's not a big deal really. The Drop off triple used 1 spring and we had great success with it, as well as most of our forks now are single sided spring and a majority of the market does the same thing. Just make sure you have your axle tight and that'll keep 'er straight. Sorry I don't have a different fix for you but he was correct.

As far as checking the oil level in the 55 ATA TST2, there's no real way other than to drain the fork and just reinstall the correct measure. You can't just pop the top caps and check the level. It's only has a small amount of oil in it for lubrication.

Have fun!!:thumbsup:


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## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Uh, why not Renegade's PAR piston removal thread? You have to remove the PAR piston to change the o-rings; that procedure I wrote will tell you what you need to know, then change the inner and outer o-rings, and re-insert the piston assembly. Am I missing something?


Gotcha... I read through your thread in depth several months ago... but now for some reason I thought it was applicable only to a modification to the fork, not applicable to general service. Not sure where that came from... I'll get back into your thread. Thanks.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

GLIDE said:


> Gotcha... I read through your thread in depth several months ago... but now for some reason I thought it was applicable only to a modification to the fork, not applicable to general service. Not sure where that came from... I'll get back into your thread. Thanks.


Right on. And once you've done it, and you see how easy it is, should you ever want to try your fork without that piston, it's an easy job that is totally reversable, with no harm done to the fork. Lots of 888 riders prefer it that way.
Just don't tell marzocchi you've done it; I'm sure they would declare your warranty void.  :nono:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

GLIDE said:


> Tom... I need some guidance...
> 
> 08 888 ATA: I bottomed out very hard a couple times this weekend. Pressures were good at beginning of the day (125PAR/50TOP). The seals keeping the air chambers independent of each other are gone. Pressures are equalizing.
> 
> I just ordered the kit, but have yet to tear into this leg on this fork so I don't know what to expect. Any words of wisdom? I thought I had seen a writeup somewhere... anyone care to point me in the right direction? (Not Renegade's PAR removal thread.... I'm gonna give it another chance!!)


It's pretty simple really, once you have the ATA out and deflated from both ends, you can push the lower PAR air valve up and expose a small wire clip. Push it up and it will twist and unseat. Remove it. Now you can pull the bottom PAR chamber out, plug, rod, cord and floating piston. The floating piston is the one you need to work on. Remove the small e-clips, carefully so not to lose them (it pretty easy to). Push out the pins and slide the floating piston off. 
With a dentl pick you can get the inner o-ring out, and with some finesse reinstall the new one. Same with the outer o-ring. 
You will want to apply grease to both of these o-rings prior to reinstall. In fact just grease the inner o-ring first so you can work with the pins and e-clips without it being greased lightening.  
Once those are in and the e-clips are reinstalled, take the floating piston and spin it until the cord twists around the shaft it drops down against the base valve unit where the shaft is attached(trick of the trade ). This will make it easy to reinstall the floating piston and will respin itself once you pressure it up. 
Another little trick is to compress the upper shaft assembly so you can locate the center rod into the upper, main piston.
Then reinstall the entire base unit and the wire clip. Pull the lower base unit down to properly secure the clip in it's groove as well as reextend the upper shaft prior to reinflation(important). 
Last thing you want to do is not get the wire clip fixed in the lower base valve and pressure the unit up. It's possible that base valve shoot out. It will most likely damage the air valve and you will be SOL. 
I would even recommend taking just the ATA assaembly and dunking it in water to make sure it isn't leaking to the exterior prior to reassembly in the fork.

You should be good to go. 
Should easy enough? 
Good luck, it's pretty simple. Just go slow and don't force aything, you can damage o-rings if you do.

Cheers,
MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Right on. And once you've done it, and you see how easy it is, should you ever want to try your fork without that piston, it's an easy job that is totally reversable, with no harm done to the fork. Lots of 888 riders prefer it that way.
> Just don't tell marzocchi you've done it; I'm sure they would declare your warranty void.  :nono:


Hey more power to you if you want to do it yourselves. Most of the time we don't warranty seals anyways:skep:


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## GLIDE (Jan 28, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Good luck, it's pretty simple. Just go slow and don't force aything, you can damage o-rings if you do.
> 
> Cheers,
> MTD


Thanks a bunch. :thumbsup:


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## stanima (Jun 7, 2008)

Thanks Tom! I will just ride and not worry so much!


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## j5ive (Sep 24, 2005)

Just checking that you didnt miss this one tom,



> Fork is an 07 4x 80mm brian lopes edition. It feels like a$$ basically. The rebound is so fast it feels like the lowers are going to snap off. There is also several clicks and clunks in the travel. I have personally tried heavy oil (up to 20w) to slow the thing down, but nothing works. Its as if the air is the deciding factor and as soon as you add anything the fork turns into a pogo stick.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Oh! Is there a dealer manual for the roco wc air yet? The one on the intranet site is a dud file. Thanks.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hey more power to you if you want to do it yourselves. Most of the time we don't warranty seals anyways:skep:


Tom, I was speaking more to the warranty on the entire fork, I once endured a rant from a Marz. salesperson who, upon hearing my parts purchase list, read me the riot act that I was voiding my warranty by replacing one cartridge with another.
I'm pretty sure they feel the same way about opening up an ata cart. and removing a 'functional" component.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

j5ive said:


> Just checking that you didnt miss this one tom,
> 
> Oh! Is there a dealer manual for the roco wc air yet? The one on the intranet site is a dud file. Thanks.


I didn't miss it but our inside go to guy should have replied to you about it.

Have you ever had the fork apart? It has to do with the pumping rod not closing completely. Sometimes taking them apart and working the valve a bit can get it to close fully. Maybe even upgrading the pumping rod to a cartridge would be a way to go too. I can see what I have around here for a pumping rod I can get you but it will take some digging. 

As far as the ROCO AIR WC shock let's see what i have here.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Renegade said:


> Tom, I was speaking more to the warranty on the entire fork, I once endured a rant from a Marz. salesperson who, upon hearing my parts purchase list, read me the riot act that I was voiding my warranty by replacing one cartridge with another.
> I'm pretty sure they feel the same way about opening up an ata cart. and removing a 'functional" component.


As far as warranties go, we have to throw out the disclaimer to all customers who call (we don't know who we are talking to a lot of times) but, if you want to work on your fork it's not a problem. The only problem that could result is when you work on it and damage the parts, then we will not cover the parts you damaged which most of the time are the parts that need to be warrantied. So feel free to work on your fork but if you damage it, expect to pay for anything you damaged and a warranty on those items are not covered.

I don't know why he would say that on a complete cartridge swap, like an easy ATA cartridge swap. It doesn't get much easier than that but we need to see it and understand what the real issue is. He does ask questions like how long have you been riding the fork? Have you serviced your fork regularly? And with these answers he gives you the normal wear and tear answer or the possible warranty answer. Most cases are that if the fork is brand new and there's an issue, we can send parts, sometimes. It all depends on the person calling and the individual case.


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## Kymmster (Jul 4, 2006)

*Tech question*

Thanks for the support on here. I jut bought an 08 66 RC3 180mm and the bike I want to put it on works best with a shorter travel fork (140-160mm). I wanted to know if I can lower the travel on this fork. I know I had a DirtJumper lowered about 20mm a couple years ago and was hoping to do the same with this.
Thanks Kymmster


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

*New Question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????????*

I just recently purchased a '06 Z1 Light ETA that is supposed to be 150mm. However, I am only getting 4.5" of travel out of the fork. I have backed the compression all the way out, but and not getting anywhere.:madman: I am 215 lbs. geared up.

How do I tell if it is actually a 150mm and not a 130mm? 

Thanks
Jason @ Switchback Cyclery


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

Kymmster said:


> Thanks for the support on here. I jut bought an 08 66 RC3 180mm and the bike I want to put it on works best with a shorter travel fork (140-160mm). I wanted to know if I can lower the travel on this fork. I know I had a DirtJumper lowered about 20mm a couple years ago and was hoping to do the same with this.
> Thanks Kymmster


Yes you can, but I don't know how. Mine came from Zoke USA at 160mm at my request. I think he used spacers, but I just broke down the fork the other night and did not notice anything. Probably somewhere inside the RC3 cart, which I did not service.


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

Do you have a TST 5 cartridge in the other leg? If it is the TST 5 cartridge then you may have to send it in, depending on how mechanically inclined you are. 

One way to tell is to isolate the TST cart is to loosen the ETA top cap completely and compress the fork. If you do not get full travel then the TST either has too much oil in it or some bath oil has been drawn in. Good news is that Tom can probably get you a new cart fairly quickly as long as you don't mind doing the work yourself. All you would need is about 50 cc's of 7.5 wt oil for lubrication.

If you can compress the fork completely then its easy! Just remove about 10 mm of oil from the ETA until you are getting the full range.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

mtnbikej said:


> I just recently purchased a '06 Z1 Light ETA that is supposed to be 150mm. However, I am only getting 4.5" of travel out of the fork. I have backed the compression all the way out, but and not getting anywhere.:madman: I am 215 lbs. geared up.
> 
> How do I tell if it is actually a 150mm and not a 130mm?
> 
> ...


Well, if you have TAS on yours, then 130 can be somewhat plausible. Basically, just measure from the top of the dust seal to the bottom of the crown where it meets the stanchion. My fork is downstairs in my workshop, so it's not readily accessible, but I rememeber the exposed stanchion space in 150 being extremely close to that number. Perhaps 153 or 155. Don't worry about minor variances. If this is not what you see, AND you have TAS, then you have to adjust the TAS up 20mm.

I'm not sure if there was a 130mm Z1 Light, but anything is possible on the OEM front. Hell, Zoke even put QR20's on Z2's for GT some years ago.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Well, if you have TAS on yours, then 130 can be somewhat plausible. Basically, just measure from the top of the dust seal to the bottom of the crown where it meets the stanchion. My fork is downstairs in my workshop, so it's not readily accessible, but I rememeber the exposed stanchion space in 150 being extremely close to that number. Perhaps 153 or 155. Don't worry about minor variances. If this is not what you see, AND you have TAS, then you have to adjust the TAS up 20mm.
> 
> I'm not sure if there was a 130mm Z1 Light, but anything is possible on the OEM front. Hell, Zoke even put QR20's on Z2's for GT some years ago.


No travel adjust system....just ETA. According to the Marzocchi site, they did make the Z1 Light w/ ETA in a 130 and a 150 length. From seal to crown it is just over 150mm.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Then you have 150. The issue likely lies in bad oil levels and you need to determine which one is high...hopefully that's it.


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## jim steffes (Aug 10, 2008)

*Marzocchi Roco R, Coil*

Hey Tom,
I just got a Giant Glory 1, and after 5 min of pavement riding my Roco R Coil started to leak oil out the rebound adjustment. I was kind of siked for a minute because I thought it was a new feature intended to make anyone following me suddenly crash. If this is the intended feature, how long can I use this feature/ how many of my biking opponents do you think I can take out without having to refill. I can't seem to find anyone who sells the Marzocchi Roco R Coil oil-slick refill kit.

My Question:
*Can you post the Marzocchi Roco R Coil tech manual* so I can get this thing back into working order. My local shop wants me to wait 2 weeks. I have been rebuilding my shocks and forks for years now, and would rather do it myself. What happened to the zokes great online tech manuals? You guys use to have the best DIY manuals. I know I may be pushing my luck, but can you also post the *Tech Manual for the Marzocchi 66 RCV*. _The new owners manual that zokes is putting out are seriously funny._

Every bike/parts manufacturer has their issues. My wife recently jumped ship and bought a Fox fork for her downhill bike - it has been back to the company 4 times now. It will be a cold day in hell before she ever buys a Fox product again. It's all in the customer service.

Can you send me an email or reply to this post and let me know if getting the 2 manuals is possible.

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*RCV oil change info*



jim steffes said:


> Hey Tom,
> I just got a Giant Glory 1, and after 5 min of pavement riding my Roco R Coil started to leak oil out the rebound adjustment. I was kind of siked for a minute because I thought it was a new feature intended to make anyone following me suddenly crash. If this is the intended feature, how long can I use this feature/ how many of my biking opponents do you think I can take out without having to refill. I can't seem to find anyone who sells the Marzocchi Roco R Coil oil-slick refill kit.
> 
> My Question:
> ...


You must have got the Batman Edition shock complete with oil slick technology.:idea:

Unfortunetely I have not created a manual for this in-line coil shock. I can help you out though...actually I would love to get your shock and send it back to the mfr'r. I will PM you with details. 
The ROCO R coil is harder to rebuild due to the in-line nature of the shock. I personally haven't done a bench bleed with this shock and only assemble them submerged. It is tough to keep the in-line IFP in place and still get the bleed good.

Check for a PM.

The only thing I will have for the 66 RCV will be a schematic not a tech manual. This fork is really simple to rebuild so I'll give you a blow by blow here.

SInce this is a pumping rod fork, all you have to do is remove the top caps. This wil expose the spring or springs, remove. 
Now drain the fork by flipping it over. Pump it a few times. 
With the for flipped over you can remove the footnuts from the bottom with a 15mm socket.
With these removed you can remove the lower casting. 
If you wanted to change the seals a special tool is needed for installation. So be careful here. You will need to remove the dust seal, then a clip, then the main oil seal.

Once the seals have been reinstalled via a seal press tool, install the clip into the groove. 
Take the dust seals and slide them onto the stanchion tubes. This will help you reinstall the stanchions into the lower casting and seals without damaging the main oil seal. Grease the oil seal and dust wiper prior to installation of the stanchions

With the stanchions installed into the lower casting, you can now attach the footnuts. You will need a long rod or use the spring to push the pumping rod thread up through the base of the casting. Attach each footnut and tighten to 15Nm (pretty f'n tight)
With the foot nuts attached you can now add oil, 7.5wt fully synthetic oil.

Pour oil into both sides of the fork. Fill it to about 3" from the top to start with. Now cycle the fork up and down to let the oil fill the lower assembly. Once this is done, let the fork sit for a few minutes to let the air seperate and float to the top. Now set the oil hieght. 
Set the oil hieght to 55mm from the top with the fork fully compressed. This is a good hieght but if you are a lighter rider you can go down in hieght to 60-65mm. This will give the fork a more linear spring rate once built up but it will bottom-out easier than the 55mm hieght. With the oil hieght set just extend it and add the springs and top caps.

You should be golden! 
I hope this helps.


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## perf0rmance (Jul 25, 2008)

i've got a question....

I have a 2002 KHS FXT rage which came with a marzocchi bomber, and it has 2001 written on it. According to bikepedia.com, it is a marzocchi EXR. Upon further research, I've learned that they are one and the same.

What I'm trying to ask is, on the bottom of the forks, I have an adjustable knob, but it's only on one fork, and not both. Is this right? and what does that knob adjust? rebound?


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

You can us PVC and and a piece of old inner tube ( as a buffer ) wrapped around the end as the press tool. I put the oil seals in the freezer for 20 mins prior to installation and that helped too.


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

*Wobble in my 66 RCV*

I just got my fork back from the Marzocchi Tech Department. thanks for the good work.

i had it up in mammoth for 2 days last weekend. the compression / rebound felt like it needed breaking in. but there was something new / weird with it as well.

there seems to be play / wobble in it now. feels kind janky. clunky. just like there is wobble in it. any '08 66 RCV owners having this problem?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

perf0rmance said:


> i've got a question....
> 
> I have a 2002 KHS FXT rage which came with a marzocchi bomber, and it has 2001 written on it. According to bikepedia.com, it is a marzocchi EXR. Upon further research, I've learned that they are one and the same.
> 
> What I'm trying to ask is, on the bottom of the forks, I have an adjustable knob, but it's only on one fork, and not both. Is this right? and what does that knob adjust? rebound?


It adjusts rebound. :thumbsup:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mild beast said:


> I just got my fork back from the Marzocchi Tech Department. thanks for the good work.
> 
> i had it up in mammoth for 2 days last weekend. the compression / rebound felt like it needed breaking in. but there was something new / weird with it as well.
> 
> there seems to be play / wobble in it now. feels kind janky. clunky. just like there is wobble in it. any '08 66 RCV owners having this problem?


There have been a few with looser than normal bushings. The tech normally checks for this regardless of the reason it's here. I have a question though, when are you noticing this? On the trail? In your garage? In a box with a fox?

FYI, there has to be a little play in our bushings for oil to be able to get up and lubricate the upper bushings. There's an exceptable amount and a non-exceptable amount. We would need to have it here (again) to check it. My recommendation at this piont since you just got your fork back, would be to ride it for a while and if and when you have some time out f the saddle send it to us (call for an RA first), and we can then get it done. It will not hurt anything to ride it this way if it is indeed on the larger side.

I was up in Mammoth over the weekend too:thumbsup: Sunday was perfect huh, so was my V-10.


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

I would like to see some proof! R & D the 888 proto? I hope you thrashed it good and proper!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mtn. Biker123 said:


> I would like to see some proof! R & D the 888 proto? I hope you thrashed it good and proper!


Pre ride photo....888 RC3 and ROCO WC Air .....it is real!!  
All I can say is wow!


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## perf0rmance (Jul 25, 2008)

but is it suppose to be only on one shock?


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## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

Nice! Like the decals, are they as easy to remove as last years models?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

perf0rmance said:


> but is it suppose to be only on one shock?


Yeah, rebound adjust is only on one side of the "fork".


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mtn. Biker123 said:


> Nice! Like the decals, are they as easy to remove as last years models?


Yeah, they have user freindly removable decals too! :smilewinkgrin: rft:


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## perf0rmance (Jul 25, 2008)

ok COOL thanks for the super lightning quick repsonses!!!
while i'm here, do i need adapter to mount my hayes 9 hydro brake?
on my other fork, the mount holes are on a line that is parallel to the fork. my bomber's have holes that are on a line that would intersect the forks.

please bear with me here as i'm new to this whole scene. I just got these bikes within the last 2 weeks. thanks


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## mild beast (Jan 15, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> .. In a box with a fox?
> 
> ..
> I was up in Mammoth over the weekend too:thumbsup: Sunday was perfect huh, so was my V-10.


sweet! a dr. seuss reference.

i only notice it on trail. i tried many times to get the wiggle buy holding the rigid (like braked up against a wall) and inverting it and moving the wheel. i couldn't get it.

but when i am going down a trail, i feel it.

YES.. nothing is getting shipped for a while!! i don't care if it blows up! i am headed to North Star and Downieville (and maybe Mamm) all next week.

i'll PM you with any other details as necessary.

i looked for a dude on a white V-10. never saw one. it was rather crowded. definitely took full advantage of that little. even parked there.

i didn't stay for sunday. bike is seriously trashed. my deraileur is super hosed/bent. just fragged. even pic worthy. rims are tweaked. it was windy on fri/sat.. i imagine you mean 'perfect' in that it wasn't windy.

i went off that silly drop in the bike park on friday and blow like 3' to the left. heh. i got blown off the trail at the of Skid Marks. almost scary.

thanks for the info,

- m. b.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

perf0rmance said:


> ok COOL thanks for the super lightning quick repsonses!!!
> while i'm here, do i need adapter to mount my hayes 9 hydro brake?
> on my other fork, the mount holes are on a line that is parallel to the fork. my bomber's have holes that are on a line that would intersect the forks.
> 
> please bear with me here as i'm new to this whole scene. I just got these bikes within the last 2 weeks. thanks


Easy enough. You will need a 6" IS to post adapter....if you have a 6" rotor. Most likely you do. Hayes or BTI might have what you need.


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## slowandlow (Jun 6, 2004)

I have a z3 bam 80 2000 that still works like a champ. I was wondering if you know where I could get some heavier springs for it? It currently it has the green springs. Does any of the newer models springs fit? 

Thanx
Dan


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

slowandlow said:


> I have a z3 bam 80 2000 that still works like a champ. I was wondering if you know where I could get some heavier springs for it? It currently it has the green springs. Does any of the newer models springs fit?
> Thanx
> Dan


 Maybe these:http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2463


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

*Marzocchi MX PRO 2008 questions.*

Hi Marzocchi team,

I'm about to buy a MX pro 2008 fork in West-europa and have some questions about the purchase:

1.it's quite hard to find the following extra parts. Sometimes on of them are included with the mx pro package, sometimes you need to order stuff separately but the shop doens't have (both) of them etc. So where could I buy following items ?
a.remote control for the lockout on this fork
b. necessary parts to be able to mount V-Brake type brakes (a pin and an adapter?)

I'd prefer to buy the mx pro + a + b just in one time, but i'm really having a hard time finding a shop that can sell me that set.

2. Besides that, some shops mention "Mx pro 2008" and some "Mx pro LO 2008". Is there any difference ?

3. In case I can't find a remote control, is it easy enough to switch the lockout on the fork itself ? I can't find clear pictures of the knob/system on the fork.

Thanks for your time and effort.
Greetings.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

pmike said:


> Hi Marzocchi team,
> 
> I'm about to buy a MX pro 2008 fork in West-europa and have some questions about the purchase:
> 
> ...


Hello,
The MX Pro LO has to be purchased with the remote included and can not be added later. It requires a completely different lock-out damper.

As far as the brake post kit the part number is FSB270+FEE356. This can be ordered seperately.

The 2007 MX Pro did not have the lock-out feature. Other than that the forks are the same.


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

Thx for the really fast answer.

So are there 2 versions of the MX pro LO 2008 ? One with, and one without the remote lockout system ?

Thanks


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

pmike said:


> Thx for the really fast answer.
> 
> So are there 2 versions of the MX pro LO 2008 ? One with, and one without the remote lockout system ?
> 
> Thanks


That is correct.

Neither one comes with brake posts.


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## edgardj (Aug 13, 2008)

hello....
i have a z1 sprt rv from 2006 
i just lowered it to 100mm by placing a 50mm spacer on the left leg and fiting new springs. 
so now i went out for a test ride and the fork makes a clunk sound wen compresed, do you think is the new spacer making the sound? or what else could it be?
i think i also need new oil could that fix the problem?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

edgardj said:


> hello....
> i have a z1 sprt rv from 2006
> i just lowered it to 100mm by placing a 50mm spacer on the left leg and fiting new springs.
> so now i went out for a test ride and the fork makes a clunk sound wen compresed, do you think is the new spacer making the sound? or what else could it be?
> i think i also need new oil could that fix the problem?


It's hard to tell without seeing it but more than likely it is the main spring clicking. If it is on compression then most likely it has to do with the main spring. Is the spacer you used the same diameter as the negative top out spring? What spring do you have in it now for a main spring?

Again it is hard to tell. Check it a little more, is it when it's compressed or when it is reextending? If it's more when the fork is re-extending then I would steer towards the top-out spring and spacer.

Good luck, I hope this helps.


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

sorry, wrong spot, nevermind.


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

*Different versions/remote of the XC500 ?*



pmike said:


> So are there 2 versions of the MX pro LO 2008 ? One with, and one without the remote lockout system ?
> Thanks





Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That is correct.


Are there also 2 different versions of the XC500 ? Or is there maybe a separate remote available for the XC500 ?

Thanks again,


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## WildJackal (Jun 19, 2006)

*Aaarg*

Tom, thanks for the oil level info for my 2006 66RC2X 170mm. I changed out the oil and was putting it back together when I snapped the shaft on the compression cartridge. 
I was locking the top cap to the red lock nut and it snapped at the threads under very little pressure. This is the first service on a new fork so it should not have been fatigued. Aaarg. That is something I would hate to have work loose ... perhaps I'll use a dab of locktite in the future.

I wanted to verify that the correct part number is 703749LA/C for the 170mm.

Thanks


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## WildJackal (Jun 19, 2006)

Tom, thanks for the oil level info for my 2006 66RC2X 170mm. I changed out the oil and was putting it back together when I snapped the shaft on the compression cartridge.
I was locking the top cap to the red lock nut and it snapped at the threads under very little pressure. This is the first service on a new fork so it should not have been fatigued. Aaarg. That is something I would hate to have work loose ... perhaps I'll use a dab of locktite in the future.

I wanted to verify that the correct part number is 703749LA/C for the 170mm.

Thanks


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## SlickShoe671 (Jan 23, 2008)

How goes it MarzoTecho,

I noticed a creaking sound coming from my 08 66RCV on my last ride. I read in another post that this may be the stanchions developing play in the crown. What do you think? Not sure if I should keep riding on it or not. 

Thanks.


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## robertg202 (Aug 18, 2008)

*Marzocchi 66 ATA maximal driver weight*

Dear marzocchi tech team.

I'm thinking about buying a 66 ATA - but fully equipped my weight is around 130kg. Driving-style is All Mountain (that's why I'm thinking about the travel adjust) and Freeriding with some jumps. Sometimes some Downhill.

Is the fork suitable for my weight? 
Or would you rather suggest a 66 RCV or RC3? Or something else?
Is there a 66 ETA coming up for 2009?

Thank you

Robert


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

*55 ATA post service issue*

Tom,

I got my 55 ATA back from Marzochi about a month ago. I sent it in with a long list of issues, which seem, at least for now, to have been successfully resolved.

The fork feels great, but there is a new issue which wasn't there prior, that is, when the fork transitions from compression to rebound there's a knock. Each time. I'm wondering what it could be and whether it is something I could fix myself as last time the promised 2 week turn around time took 5 weeks. I'm guessing it has something to do with the TST damper? Is it not bleed properly?

Also, question pertaining to warranty of the fork. The fork comes with, what is it, 3 year warranty? (or was it 5?). Anyway, the slip I got with the fork after it came back from warranty says that parts/labor is warrantied for 6 months. Does it mean that effectively, my fork is now only covered under a 6 month warranty since pretty much all the guts were replaced?

_MK


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

WildJackal said:


> Tom, thanks for the oil level info for my 2006 66RC2X 170mm. I changed out the oil and was putting it back together when I snapped the shaft on the compression cartridge.
> I was locking the top cap to the red lock nut and it snapped at the threads under very little pressure. This is the first service on a new fork so it should not have been fatigued. Aaarg. That is something I would hate to have work loose ... perhaps I'll use a dab of locktite in the future.
> 
> I wanted to verify that the correct part number is 703749LA/C for the 170mm.
> ...


That is the correct part #. We have 7 pieces in stock as of today.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

WildJackal said:


> Tom, thanks for the oil level info for my 2006 66RC2X 170mm. I changed out the oil and was putting it back together when I snapped the shaft on the compression cartridge.
> I was locking the top cap to the red lock nut and it snapped at the threads under very little pressure. This is the first service on a new fork so it should not have been fatigued. Aaarg. That is something I would hate to have work loose ... perhaps I'll use a dab of locktite in the future.
> 
> I wanted to verify that the correct part number is 703749LA/C for the 170mm.
> ...


That is correct.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

SlickShoe671 said:


> How goes it MarzoTecho,
> 
> I noticed a creaking sound coming from my 08 66RCV on my last ride. I read in another post that this may be the stanchions developing play in the crown. What do you think? Not sure if I should keep riding on it or not.
> 
> Thanks.


It can still be ridden but we can change it for you too. It would be covered under warranty after we inspect it and find that it is indeed the crown creaking.


----------



## dascro (Apr 1, 2007)

Tom,

I just got a Z1 RC2 ETA anniversary from ebay and its time for an oil change. I know for the footnuts I can either buy the tool from you guys or grind a 12mm socket down. What about the top caps? How do you reccomend getting at those? I know there is a DIY article here that uses a pair of low profile Knipex pliers but I'm not thrilled about the solution. What do you suggest.

I am changing the oil asap since I don't know the history of this fork, but when do you suggest changing it? Is there a way to "feel" it needs changed or do I just follow an interval?

Thanks!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

robertg202 said:


> Dear marzocchi tech team.
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a 66 ATA - but fully equipped my weight is around 130kg. Driving-style is All Mountain (that's why I'm thinking about the travel adjust) and Freeriding with some jumps. Sometimes some Downhill.
> 
> ...


No problem using the 66ATA fork. You can tune the air pressures to accomidate any weight rider. 
Always remember that air fork require more service nd maintainence though. The true DH performer is the 66 RC3. You can even add a second spring to this fork to adjust it more for your weight too.

66 ATA is a great fork.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

MK_ said:


> Tom,
> 
> I got my 55 ATA back from Marzochi about a month ago. I sent it in with a long list of issues, which seem, at least for now, to have been successfully resolved.
> 
> ...


Hello,
As far as the knock, it is the glide ring on the rebound valve. It is actually normal for the fork to have this. Most often than not you can notice it when the rebound is set to a very slow setting. Is this the way you use your fork? Just wondering but it is normal. You will notice that this goes away when you run faster settings.

As far as the 6 month thing, the 3 year warranty overrides any other warranty. It is mainly stated when forks are out of the 3 year period, then we cover the parts we replaced / repaired.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dascro said:


> Tom,
> 
> I just got a Z1 RC2 ETA anniversary from ebay and its time for an oil change. I know for the footnuts I can either buy the tool from you guys or grind a 12mm socket down. What about the top caps? How do you reccomend getting at those? I know there is a DIY article here that uses a pair of low profile Knipex pliers but I'm not thrilled about the solution. What do you suggest.
> 
> ...


It has a 26mm hex (6 piont socket) on the RC2 side, the ETA is a 21mm socket (6 piont socket perfered). We make a 12mm socket that fits the footnuts.

As far as intervals, with open bath forks, I always say change the oil once a season, maybe twice if you ride a ton of miles.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hello,
> As far as the knock, it is the glide ring on the rebound valve. It is actually normal for the fork to have this. Most often than not you can notice it when the rebound is set to a very slow setting. Is this the way you use your fork? Just wondering but it is normal. You will notice that this goes away when you run faster settings.


I'll play with it. I don't run my rebound very slow, most of the use is fast rocky downhills after long climbs with some small drops and jumps thrown in, so it's set to be pretty responsive.

And, it wasn't there before the warranty service was done, which is where my concern stems from.
Also, I'm running ~50psi POS and ~100psi PAR, if that matters, full extension.

_MK


----------



## SlickShoe671 (Jan 23, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> It can still be ridden but we can change it for you too. It would be covered under warranty after we inspect it and find that it is indeed the crown creaking.


Thanks for the quick reply. Also what is the best way (fastest turn around time) to get the fork to you guys? Through the shop I bought the bike from or direct?

Thanks again...


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

SlickShoe671 said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. Also what is the best way (fastest turn around time) to get the fork to you guys? Through the shop I bought the bike from or direct?
> 
> Thanks again...


Either way is ok. Turn around time is about 2 weeks right now.


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## robertg202 (Aug 18, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> No problem using the 66ATA fork. You can tune the air pressures to accomidate any weight rider.
> Always remember that air fork require more service nd maintainence though. The true DH performer is the 66 RC3. You can even add a second spring to this fork to adjust it more for your weight too.
> 
> 66 ATA is a great fork.


Thank you very much for the answer. Is it also possible to add a second spring to the RC3 and a air-valve like the RCV instead of the preload-knob?
From my experience I know that it's pretty difficult to find the right springts for my weight - I would rather prefer setting the preload by air-pressure.


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## dascro (Apr 1, 2007)

Tom,

I purchased a Mongoose Khyber elite that came with a Marzocchi Roco Air R Piggy Back rear shock. I can't find anything about it but they say that it comes with adjustable bottom out control. Is this true, if so how do I adjust it?

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

robertg202 said:


> Thank you very much for the answer. Is it also possible to add a second spring to the RC3 and a air-valve like the RCV instead of the preload-knob?
> From my experience I know that it's pretty difficult to find the right springts for my weight - I would rather prefer setting the preload by air-pressure.


The RC3 will have an air preload valve on the rebound side of the fork too which you can adjust with air pressure as well as the mechanical spring preload adjuster on the spring side.

Another good boost in spring rate would be to take a double sided, "single rate" spring (part #5141330/C, that's a two spring kit, you only need one) and a castle washer for the top of the rebound cartridge, then just use a little air pressure to fine tune. I think if you used two single sided "double rate" springs it would be too firm even for your weight. The RC3 has a single sided "double rate" spring in it stock.

That would be one plush fork.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dascro said:


> Tom,
> 
> I purchased a Mongoose Khyber elite that came with a Marzocchi Roco Air R Piggy Back rear shock. I can't find anything about it but they say that it comes with adjustable bottom out control. Is this true, if so how do I adjust it?
> 
> Thanks


You can adjust the bottom-out on the shock by changing the air pressure in the piggyback. You will need to remove the air cap cover on the tail end of the reservior and increase the air presure. The range is 170-220psi. First I would just make sure it is pressured within this range and adjust from there. I always use 200psi for my starting pressures and go up or down from there.

The Kyber has a nice low leverage rate to it so I don't think you will need to go up above 200psi.

The main spring is adjusted through the air valve sticking out to the side of the shock.

Cheers,
Happy Trails.


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## JSpecialized (Apr 6, 2008)

I have a 07' 600 sl ata. Just got it this spring. The fork is leaking oil out of the left lower. Where you put in the rebound air. I was told it woul go away after a few rides. I have be on several rides and it still leaks. I am afraid all of the oil will leak out and cause damage. What do I need to do?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

JSpecialized said:


> I have a 07' 600 sl ata. Just got it this spring. The fork is leaking oil out of the left lower. Where you put in the rebound air. I was told it woul go away after a few rides. I have be on several rides and it still leaks. I am afraid all of the oil will leak out and cause damage. What do I need to do?


Weird. Did you try to tighten the bottom foot nut...carefully. If it's tight you might have a damaged o-ring. that would need to be replaced. 
I hope this helps.


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## JSpecialized (Apr 6, 2008)

I was hoping that tightening that nut would help...however where do you get a wrench that can fit in that space? I have taken it to a LBS but they did not have a wrench that would work.


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

...


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

JSpecialized said:


> I was hoping that tightening that nut would help...however where do you get a wrench that can fit in that space? I have taken it to a LBS but they did not have a wrench that would work.


Thinwall 12mm socket. We sell the tool....


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## Atomic173 (Jul 22, 2008)

Hey there-
I have a new 06 66 VF2. I have been riding it quite a bit since I got it in july and have noticed that there is a sort of rattling/vibrating feeling coming from the end of the fork when I compress it and quickly pull back on the handle bars. It seems that this is a new development...sorry for the vaugeness but this is my first full suspension bike. Is this vibration normal for these forks or am I thrashing my fork too hard and need to fix it: ie worn bushings ect?
Thanks-


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Atomic173 said:


> Hey there-
> I have a new 06 66 VF2. I have been riding it quite a bit since I got it in july and have noticed that there is a sort of rattling/vibrating feeling coming from the end of the fork when I compress it and quickly pull back on the handle bars. It seems that this is a new development...sorry for the vaugeness but this is my first full suspension bike. Is this vibration normal for these forks or am I thrashing my fork too hard and need to fix it: ie worn bushings ect?
> Thanks-


Yeah, it's kinda hard to know from here but I would bet it's just the spring inside the fork legs doing a little rattling around. It not something that can be pin pionted with a do this kind of fix. How much air pressure do you have in the fork?


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## Atomic173 (Jul 22, 2008)

I have 0 psi of pre load b/c I weigh 175lbs and the springs are very stiff. I am getting good sag though w/o the pre-load.
Thanks again-


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

*Bushing play question. and somem others.*

How do I know if my bushing is too loose?

I have an 08 66rc3 purchased early this year.

The left damper leg feels tight as a drum and feels just like my other Zokes I;ve owned in the past. The right leg though seems pretty sloppy. I can grab the stanchion and lowers in both hands and actually get a knocking sound.

Is it supposed to be like that or what? My buddy just bought a brand new 08 rc3 and his leftt stanchion is loose too, while the right is tight. How could one side be sloppy while the other is tight?

I can't help but think this is causing some problems when I try to brake. It seems like the bike wants to turn every time I touch the front brake.

If I continue to ride it like this will it cause permanent damage? I have no idea how long I've been riding it like that.

I also have had this fork on two frames and 3 headsets. Each one has creak around the crown. I replaced with a different fork and no creaking. Is it common for the fork to be the problem?

Last problem is that my preload knob stopped turning. I only had about 3.5 turns on it and it just froze there at some point. Is there anything I can do to free it up? I like to adjust the preload depending on the type of riding I'm doing.

Cheers!
YoPawn


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> How do I know if my bushing is too loose?
> 
> I have an 08 66rc3 purchased early this year.
> 
> ...


Asfar as your bushing play it would have to come here and be inspected to see if it is in or out of tolerence. We can inspect it and take care of it if need be.

The creaking is something I can currently fix as well...or replace with a new unit.

As far as your preload not turning, huummm? I would take the knob off and see if maybe it is just the detent ball bearing binding up the whole unit or maybe even take a wrench and see if I could free it up. If you try the wrench thing, don't go kung foo on it, just rock back and forth and see if it moves without the cap.

Let us know what you find or want to do.

MTD


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Asfar as your bushing play it would have to come here and be inspected to see if it is in or out of tolerence. We can inspect it and take care of it if need be.
> 
> The creaking is something I can currently fix as well...or replace with a new unit.
> 
> ...


Wow! Thanks for the quick response. Regardless of these issues, I've been loving my rc3 more than any other zoke I've owned.

I checked the preload knob, which actually never came with any detent balls to begin with. Seems pretty damn locked.

Would it hurt the fork at all if I rode at least one more weekend at Whistler before sending it in? I would hate to miss the end of this riding season. Uses full travel and doesn't make any funny noises, except for the creaking/clicking noise from the crown.

What's the turn around time right now?

Sorry for one more question. How much would it cost to get a 1.5 in replacement steerer for my 1 1/8th? Just upgraded to a 1.5 frame and would like to humor the idea of upgrading the fork too.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> Wow! Thanks for the quick response. Regardless of these issues, I've been loving my rc3 more than any other zoke I've owned.
> 
> I checked the preload knob, which actually never came with any detent balls to begin with. Seems pretty damn locked.
> 
> ...


No it won't hurt it to ride it that way, maybe just your ears . We could check out the preload adjuster once it arrives here.

As far as the 1.5 crown steer assembly, retail on that is $240.00. I'm sure we can work a slightly better deal when it is here for the creak and/or preload adjuster issue. 
Turn around is less than two weeks once it arrives here, I think it's less than that right now. We've been busted our arses around here the last week or so. :ihih:


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> No it won't hurt it to ride it that way, maybe just your ears . We could check out the preload adjuster once it arrives here.
> 
> As far as the 1.5 crown steer assembly, retail on that is $240.00. I'm sure we can work a slightly better deal when it is here for the creak and/or preload adjuster issue.
> Turn around is less than two weeks once it arrives here, I think it's less than that right now. We've been busted our arses around here the last week or so. :ihih:


Thanks again mang! :thumbsup:

I'll call you guys next month about an RA.


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## jim steffes (Aug 10, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> The left damper leg feels tight as a drum and feels just like my other Zokes I;ve owned in the past. The right leg though seems pretty sloppy. I can grab the stanchion and lowers in both hands and actually get a knocking sound.


I noticed this same thing on my 66rcv this weekend. Is this just a normal tolerance thing? I don't have any oil leakage and all other adjustments work fine.

I am reluctant to go hit the big stuff again with the fork this way. Anyone else have the same issue?


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## dascro (Apr 1, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You can adjust the bottom-out on the shock by changing the air pressure in the piggyback. You will need to remove the air cap cover on the tail end of the reservior and increase the air presure. The range is 170-220psi. First I would just make sure it is pressured within this range and adjust from there. I always use 200psi for my starting pressures and go up or down from there.
> 
> The Kyber has a nice low leverage rate to it so I don't think you will need to go up above 200psi.
> 
> ...


Not sure how I missed that.

Anyways. Do you know if that shock the comes stock on the Mongoose Khyber Elite has built in pedaling platform?


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## midwest division (Aug 24, 2008)

*marzocchi drop off triple disassembly*

im in the process of disassembling my 05 drop off triples so i can replace my oil and dust seals, but ive run into a road block. ive dropped the lower and upper stanchions from the two crowns, removed the two tops and dust seals, drained oil and removed the spring and spacer. now i want to remove the upper stanchions from the lowers, but when i go to back out the nuts at the foot of each leg, the internals just spin with the nuts. what is the trick to this? thanx in advance.


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech,

After the warranty fix of my 55ATA, the rebound is knocking, as discussed above. You suggested that the noise ought to go away when I reduce rebound damping. I'm pretty close to full fast and the knock becomes really violent when I increase the rebound damping. What can be done to get rid of the knock? Would TST rebleed help?

_MK


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

MK_ said:


> Marzocchi Tech,
> 
> After the warranty fix of my 55ATA, the rebound is knocking, as discussed above. You suggested that the noise ought to go away when I reduce rebound damping. I'm pretty close to full fast and the knock becomes really violent when I increase the rebound damping. What can be done to get rid of the knock? Would TST rebleed help?
> 
> _MK


Maybe a rebleed would help but I have tryed to get rid of it too with no luck. It's weird it started after your ATA fix.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

midwest division said:


> im in the process of disassembling my 05 drop off triples so i can replace my oil and dust seals, but ive run into a road block. ive dropped the lower and upper stanchions from the two crowns, removed the two tops and dust seals, drained oil and removed the spring and spacer. now i want to remove the upper stanchions from the lowers, but when i go to back out the nuts at the foot of each leg, the internals just spin with the nuts. what is the trick to this? thanx in advance.


Take the main spring and push on the pumping rod while loosening the foot nut.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Maybe a rebleed would help but I have tryed to get rid of it too with no luck. It's weird it started after your ATA fix.


My fork had the TST micro and ATA carts replaced. Essentially the guts on both sides. I am assuming that the TST cart is an "improved" version which has th oil sucking function removed? The knocking rebound is quite annoying especially on rocky climbs.

I'll try to rebleed, if that doesn't fix it, what then?

_MK


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dascro said:


> Not sure how I missed that.
> 
> Anyways. Do you know if that shock the comes stock on the Mongoose Khyber Elite has built in pedaling platform?


Marzocchi does not do Pedal Platform. We have Trail Selection Technology (TST).

You need to have at least 170psi and a maximum of 220psi. With a minimum of 170psi, this keeps the oil stabilized so the damping remains consistant. If you are feeling bottom-out you should adjust your pressure accordingly.


----------



## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

MK_ said:


> I'll try to rebleed, if that doesn't fix it, what then?_MK


sell it.
_MK, I don't get it; you have a high-end rear shock; you're sensitive to suspension performance, yet you are still trying to get this lame 55 ATA fork to perform. You've replaced both cartridges, and it still gives you problems. Is this your cross to bear, or are you a masochist?
Even I gave up on the '07 66 ATA eventually.


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Renegade said:


> sell it.
> _MK, I don't get it; you have a high-end rear shock; you're sensitive to suspension performance, yet you are still trying to get this lame 55 ATA fork to perform. You've replaced both cartridges, and it still gives you problems. Is this your cross to bear, or are you a masochist?
> Even I gave up on the '07 66 ATA eventually.


Oh no renny. You might be next to get the nasty 5000 character email.


----------



## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Renegade said:


> sell it.
> _MK, I don't get it; you have a high-end rear shock; you're sensitive to suspension performance, yet you are still trying to get this lame 55 ATA fork to perform. You've replaced both cartridges, and it still gives you problems. Is this your cross to bear, or are you a masochist?
> Even I gave up on the '07 66 ATA eventually.


I guess I'm patient, but to be fair, the fork rides great. It is the smoothest feeling air fork I've ever ridden. It did implode on me originally, which was alleviated by Marzocchi, however, I am left with this annoying knock. I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel, yet, however, it will depend on how this issue gets resolved and if anything else comes up with it. Historically speaking, this is the most unreliable fork I've owned.

_MK


----------



## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

MK, do you still own an '06 66 of any variety?


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Renegade said:


> MK, do you still own an '06 66 of any variety?


No. Last one I had I sold to a buddy of mine who built up a 6 Point earlier this season. I miss my RC2X, but I don't miss the 2 pounds as much. :skep: (the damn compromises. I wish my 55ATA was the RC3 with a Ti main coil, which makes me wonder if the spring off the 888 would work inside this fork...)

_MK


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

New 2008 55 ATA, set at 110 lbs in PAR chamber and 60 lbs in upper as per Marz Tech support. I told them I weigh 185 lbs without gear and it still feels soft. I was also told to fill lower first with bike upside down and make sure lower is always more pressure by at least 30 lbs, HELP! What settings would you reccomend and what oil levels on both sides at first service. Thanks in advance!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tls36 said:


> New 2008 55 ATA, set at 110 lbs in PAR chamber and 60 lbs in upper as per Marz Tech support. I told them I weigh 185 lbs without gear and it still feels soft. I was also told to fill lower first with bike upside down and make sure lower is always more pressure by at least 30 lbs, HELP! What settings would you reccomend and what oil levels on both sides at first service. Thanks in advance!


I wiegh 185-190 and I run 125psi in the bottom and 50 in the top. It has a subtle feel off the top and good progression. If I was you I would try just a little more air in the bottom valve. FYI, the top pressure will effect the beginning stroke and the bottom valve will effect the end of stroke.

As far as oil hieght, you only need about 30cc's per side in that fork for lubrication. The damper units are closed systems so you don't need to set an oil hieght on that fork.:thumbsup:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jim steffes said:


> I noticed this same thing on my 66rcv this weekend. Is this just a normal tolerance thing? I don't have any oil leakage and all other adjustments work fine.
> 
> I am reluctant to go hit the big stuff again with the fork this way. Anyone else have the same issue?


There is always a small amount of play in our bushings. You should be ok hitting the big stuff until you want us to check it out and inpsect the tolerances. Give us a ring when you are ready.


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## EastBay_Slim (Jan 4, 2007)

*2005 Marzocchi 888 RC 170mm - conversion to 200mm possible????*

i just sent a PM to marzocchi tech support but though i would post here as well. so can it be done?

i have a practically new 2005 888rc 1700mm fork and want to know if it is possible to convert this to the 200mm version? if so, what do i need and how much does one think the conversion would run me? thanks.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

ancientwisdom said:


> i just sent a PM to marzocchi tech support but though i would post here as well. so can it be done?
> 
> i have a practically new 2005 888rc 1700mm fork and want to know if it is possible to convert this to the 200mm version? if so, what do i need and how much does one think the conversion would run me? thanks.


It can not be converted but you can buy two new cartridges and extend it that way. It would cost about 3 hundred bucks to do it. (copied from PM)


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## EastBay_Slim (Jan 4, 2007)

got the pm thanks!


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

I just purchased a Mx lo pro 2008 remote trough an online shop. This is how I received it. Is this remote assembly complete/correct ? I expected a sleeve around the cable and the cable being connected to the fork. The manual doens't mention anything about this either. Thx


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## swaussie (Jul 23, 2007)

I take my hat off to you Marzocchi Tech Department. You have tried your absolute best to give Marzocchi a lift in the PR dept and you do your utmost to help Marzocchi owners sort out their problems :thumbsup: 

Unfortunately you cant compensate for the rubbish your company is putting on the market. My time as a Marzocchi user are over. My history with Zoke is abysmal. My AM1's broke, my 07 66's have been repaired 3 times and now on the weekend my 08 888 RC3's broke leaving me with no rebound dampening and a horrible knocking noise inside the fork :madman: 

I drove 5 hours to a bike park and after one run my shoulders and arms were so destroyed from the hammering they were getting I had to rent a bike. Pissed off to say the least and the Fox 40's on the rental bike were a hell of a lot nicer than broken 888's.

Its a disgusting fact of life that companies like yours are concerned with one thing, making money at any cost. They don't give a damn that people work 8 hours a day at jobs they usually don't like. We go without and save money to buy things that should give us enjoyment. Instead we scrimp and save for something that is not worth the cost of the bin bag it should be thrown away in! :madmax: 

Keep up the good work, I am sure a lot here appreciate your assistance.


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## RS_Chuckles (Feb 27, 2006)

*AM SL Negative Chamber won't hold Air - Help!*

Hi,

The negative air chamber on my Marzocchi All Mountain SL will only hold at max 40 psi - generally only 20 psi - I'm trying to get 90 psi in there. I can put more in, but when I pull out the adaptor the remaining air escapes, increasing the travel to max making the fork basically useless, with harsh topout. Would replacing the valve with a valve core tool (screwdriver type) fix the problem?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Ryan


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

pmike said:


> I just purchased a Mx lo pro 2008 remote trough an online shop. This is how I received it. Is this remote assembly complete/correct ? I expected a sleeve around the cable and the cable being connected to the fork. The manual doens't mention anything about this either. Thx


You actually need the cable housing. I just learned that they are sent this way. We have made them change this for 2009 forks though. Not that it helps you though.

So you will need housing and two cable ends, Once the fork is mounted, Mount the remote on the bars where you want it. Then take the piece of housing and cut it to length. You can now remove the top cover with a 3mm allen. There is a spring, gear, and sliding gear that the cable mounts to. Take the center gear and turn it clock-wise until it stops, this is the locked position. Now take the sliding gear, push the cable through it, make sure the lever is in the locked position, and then push and compress the spring and tighten the set screw, I believe it's a 2mm. Now put the top cap on and release the lock-out. By doing it this way you will make sure that it locks out.

I hope this helps. If you were local I would do it for you.  
Cheers,
MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

swaussie said:


> I take my hat off to you Marzocchi Tech Department. You have tried your absolute best to give Marzocchi a lift in the PR dept and you do your utmost to help Marzocchi owners sort out their problems :thumbsup:
> 
> Unfortunately you cant compensate for the rubbish your company is putting on the market. My time as a Marzocchi user are over. My history with Zoke is abysmal. My AM1's broke, my 07 66's have been repaired 3 times and now on the weekend my 08 888 RC3's broke leaving me with no rebound dampening and a horrible knocking noise inside the fork :madman:
> 
> ...


All companies are having issues and it seems to be a bunch of BS to me as well.

I will keep trying my heart out to help however wants it. Good luck with whatever you end up riding. 
MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

RS_Chuckles said:


> Hi,
> 
> The negative air chamber on my Marzocchi All Mountain SL will only hold at max 40 psi - generally only 20 psi - I'm trying to get 90 psi in there. I can put more in, but when I pull out the adaptor the remaining air escapes, increasing the travel to max making the fork basically useless, with harsh topout. Would replacing the valve with a valve core tool (screwdriver type) fix the problem?
> 
> ...


Hi Ryan, It might even be your pump. Sometimes what happens is the seal inside the pump wears out and gets cut. So what ends up happening is the pump will not close the valve core before unsealing the outside edge of the schrader. Try a different pump, then try a valve core. If that's all it is you shoud find the solution rather painlessly.


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## Chello (Nov 22, 2005)

I have an '06 Marathon SL and recently started having problems with it. The TST leg is seems to be leaking but only when ridden hard on a trail. It won't leak just from commuting around town. 

Also when set to the locked out position i get a a bit of compression before the lockout takes effect. 

It is overdue for an oil change and i have one scheduled for next week but do you think that could fix the issues i'm having?


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## remember1453 (Aug 20, 2007)

this is an older fork but I figure I'll ask anyway. I have 5 pre-2005 forks so I am going to keep them for as long as I can.

I am working on a 2002 Monster T. After I did an oil change, and I put everything back in correct order, now there is a slight noise coming from the spring rubbing against the stancions. Is there a process to put in the spring assembly back in(like where the preload piece should be)? it was not making the noise before so I am pretty sure that the fork is in good shape.

also, I looked through the manuals posted on happymtb but cannot find the following info:

the oil level for 04 Z1 FR (130mm) and Shiver SC(100 mm)

and oil level for 2003 Z1 FR(130mm)

by oil level I mean oil height from top of the threads, the list given by Marzocchi website is in CC which is next to useless unless I want to take the whole fork apart again.
thanks


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## Furious_George_ii (Jun 3, 2004)

Hi, I have a Z1 light ETA fork,but I dont seem to be able to get the last 1" of travel. Could you please suggest what air pressure / oil heights to try? I think the problem may be too much oil in the ETA side, as even with the top cap off the RC2 side I can't compress the fork fully. 

Should the right (RC2) and left (ETA) legs have the same oil height? I ask because although most online resources seem to suggest 135 / 165 oil volumes, the leg that the volumes should go in changes according to source (I think the windwave tech docs contradicted the z1 light tech instructions PDF)

I weigh about 175lbs, and the fork is the 150mm version. I can also feel a lot of stiction in the fork at rest, although this isn't noticable on the trail, it makes setting the sag tricky, this occured from new, and seems like it might be the ETA cart, is it normal?

Thanks for your help, I love my fork


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## Furious_George_ii (Jun 3, 2004)

I should have mentioned that I'm running 20 PSI, and 5 clicks of compression from fully open


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Do you have a manual that shows how to rebuild a 2004 888RR? Thanks.


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## Bent Wheel (Oct 6, 2007)

*55r........*



azjeff said:


> Hi MTD. This fork is just over a year old and doesn't have a lot of ride time on it and has never been apart. It has an annoying little knock, click, tap on both compression and rebound. You can feel it on every up/down stroke and it happens with very little travel of the fork. Like something is floating between stops. Doesn't seem to matter what pressures or settings. Any advise?
> 
> thanks for the help, it's a great service!
> 
> Jeff


I have a 55r that is doing the same thing. It has maybe 100 miles on it. Should I stop riding it or is it something that I will need to get used to?  THANX .p.s. is it a possible oil level issue?


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## Bent Wheel (Oct 6, 2007)

*55r................*

I have a 55r that has developed a clicking, ticking, rattling sound on both compression and rebound. It's only noticeable with slight movement up or down. I can feel it while riding though. The fork only has about 100 miles on it. Is it an oil level issue possibly? It just sounds like something rattling around inside the fork. Any info would be helpful.THANX.


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

MTD, thx for all your answers and support so far on my first customizing adventure with my Mx lo pro 2008 remote. You have been a great help.

I mounted the Mx lo pro 2008 remote (100mm) on my frame with a more experienced friend. However, the old fork that was previously mounted had a leg length of 400mm, and my current Mx lo pro 2008 remote (100mm) is 500mm, which puts the nose of my bike quite a bit up, and moves the position of my front wheel more forward. This starts to give my bike a chopper-like feeling, a bit oo much for my liking.Is there a way to lower this length with the fork's settings, or will I reduce that 500mm leg length by 20mm with a 80mm spring set ? (I've read somewhere that it is still possible to change the springs, although I'm not sure if that is also possible with the 'remote' version of the Mx lo pro 2008)

Secondly, my old forks had this centered cable guide for my old type V-brake on a brace (A). Is there a way to mount something alike on the V-brake bosses of the Mx lo pro 2008 remote ?

Thanks again


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

The fork could be shortened up to be the same hieght but you have a much bigger issue, your brakes. Those brakes will not work with that fork. The only thing you could do is get a v-brkae style fork. The older cantilever brakes will not work. 
As far as shortening the fork, it would require a full diasembly and rebuild. Make sure someone that knows there way around does the work. It can be sent to us to do as well. 

Good luck!


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## pmike (Aug 12, 2008)

"The only thing you could do is get a v-brkae style fork". hold on, the mx lo pro is v-brake ready when you install the bosses right ? Or do you mean I have to buy V-brake type brakes like these?:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/resource/v_brake_news.html
Apparently I would need a new brake-lever as well ?

About shortening the fork height, is a disassemby+rebuilld the only possibility ? I would already be happy with a few cm less.

Thx.


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## aidzvpfree (Aug 29, 2008)

can adjust the travel of my 66RV 2007 from 160mm to 180mm? and what should i do make this happen? thanks!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

pmike said:


> "The only thing you could do is get a v-brkae style fork". hold on, the mx lo pro is v-brake ready when you install the bosses right ? Or do you mean I have to buy V-brake type brakes like these?:
> http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/resource/v_brake_news.html
> Apparently I would need a new brake-lever as well ?
> 
> ...


Yes a v-brake and lever would be needed. You have a cantilever brake.

The only way to shorten the fork is a disassembly and rebuild is the only way to shorten the fork.


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## JSpecialized (Apr 6, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Thinwall 12mm socket. We sell the tool....


do you sell it for any cheaper than bikebling.com? $25 seems a bit pricey


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

aidzvpfree said:


> can adjust the travel of my 66RV 2007 from 160mm to 180mm? and what should i do make this happen? thanks!


It would require a full disassembly and rebuild. It can be done though. You're are better off having someone that knows their way around our forks do the operation. It can be a bit frustrating if you don't know how.


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## Downhilldoug (Apr 1, 2006)

*How do I....*

Whats the best way to change the spring without damaging the shock.How do i change the spring on the Roco Tst R i would like to go a tad higher but the rebound adjuster knob on the bottom is in the way.


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## mrjoe16 (Sep 11, 2008)

Hey I have a 04 Dirt jumper 2 and want to set it to something around 100mm. I cant find any PDF files or anything to help me with taking it apart and adj. the travel. Please help. -Joe.


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

------


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

hi! newbie here. probably my first time to post in here. hope to get some answers from you guys. im having problems with my fork..

i have a dj2 04 on my dj rig. its a 130mm version. i find it stiff and not getting full travel and a slow rebound. so i changed the oil and got 10wt in it (thats what i have here) and 180cc of it in each leg, put air preload and tried to ride it. it was still the same. i extracted 25cc of oil in each leg and removed the spring on the right leg and put 25 psi in it. works ok but i aint getting the rebound that i want.

i read in this thread that you measure the oil by height. What do you mean by MEASURE FROM THE TOP? i don't get it. sorry bros. hehe what is the proper oil height for my dj2? so i can have both springs again. thanks. hope to get some answers.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

freeride_waray said:


> hi! newbie here. probably my first time to post in here. hope to get some answers from you guys. im having problems with my fork..
> 
> i have a dj2 04 on my dj rig. its a 130mm version. i find it stiff and not getting full travel and a slow rebound. so i changed the oil and got 10wt in it (thats what i have here) and 180cc of it in each leg, put air preload and tried to ride it. it was still the same. i extracted 25cc of oil in each leg and removed the spring on the right leg and put 25 psi in it. works ok but i aint getting the rebound that i want.
> 
> i read in this thread that you measure the oil by height. What do you mean by MEASURE FROM THE TOP? i don't get it. sorry bros. hehe what is the proper oil height for my dj2? so i can have both springs again. thanks. hope to get some answers.


If you want to check and measure the oil hieght, undo both top caps, remove the springs, and compress the fork all the way. Now you can measure from the top edge of the crown (where the cap screws in) to the top of the oil. That should be a maximum hieght of 45mm all the way down to 60mm. With the lower hieght (bigger number) you will bottom-out easier since oil hieght is the bottoming control.

There's no problem running a single spring and some air preload to compensate for the spring lost. Two springs might just be too stiff even if you lower the oil hieght.


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## mrjoe16 (Sep 11, 2008)

hey, any help with adj the dirt jumper to lower the travel???


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mrjoe16 said:


> Hey I have a 04 Dirt jumper 2 and want to set it to something around 100mm. I cant find any PDF files or anything to help me with taking it apart and adj. the travel. Please help. -Joe.


It would require taking the fork completely apart.

Remove the top caps
flip the fork and remove all the oil and springs
remove the footnuts, requires special thin wall 12mm socket. 
pull lower casting
remove clip from bottom of stanchion, pull pumping rods out.

Now you will need to add a spacer next to the top out spring, 3/4pvc works good. 
Measure from the bottom ot the pumping rod to the big farrell, that's your travel. Cut a spacer to shorten the fork to the travel you want.

Now just reverse the above to put it back together.

Add oil and set it at 45mm from the top to the oil with the fork fully compressed. 
Install springs and tighten top caps. Youmight have some preload on the springs now but you should be ok.

This should get you in deep. If you send me your e-mail I can send you a PDF. They are too big to post here. Someday we should have a new website that will have better access for this stuff.

I hope this helps
Tom
MTD


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## staz (Jan 29, 2004)

*Rocco 3pl Canister*

any help on how to remove the canister to lube.. unable to unscrew it by hand.


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## mrjoe16 (Sep 11, 2008)

Hey thanks alot guys for the help. My email is [email protected] thanks for the PDF!!!


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> If you want to check and measure the oil hieght, undo both top caps, remove the springs, and compress the fork all the way. Now you can measure from the top edge of the crown (where the cap screws in) to the top of the oil. That should be a maximum hieght of 45mm all the way down to 60mm. With the lower hieght (bigger number) you will bottom-out easier since oil hieght is the bottoming control.
> 
> There's no problem running a single spring and some air preload to compensate for the spring lost. Two springs might just be too stiff even if you lower the oil hieght.


thanks for the reply bro.

but what about the rebound? how do i adjust it? what leg is the internal rebound is what is the size of the hex key im going to use?

thanks:thumbsup:


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

Marz tech Support:

I have a new 55 ATA and am ready for 1st service. One strange thing is a slight clunking feeling when I first compress the fork, seals/wipers need lube?? I checked the headset and it is tight. Also, how much fluid should to in the TST and Air side when I change fluid. The top cap on my TST side leaked a tiny bit so I took it off and put some grease on the o-ring and re-tightened. Really love the action of the fork. Please help.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*3PL cannister*



staz said:


> any help on how to remove the canister to lube.. unable to unscrew it by hand.


You need to use a strap wrench. Not to say you can't retighten it by hand but they tighten them down at the factory, and here in our service department with a strap wrench. Just grab it on the end closest to the cut away next to the dust seal wiper.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

freeride_waray said:


> thanks for the reply bro.
> 
> but what about the rebound? how do i adjust it? what leg is the internal rebound is what is the size of the hex key im going to use?
> 
> thanks:thumbsup:


The rebound is normally in the right leg. It's an 8mm allen.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*Greasing 55 slider seals and TST oil hieght.*



tls36 said:


> Marz tech Support:
> 
> I have a new 55 ATA and am ready for 1st service. One strange thing is a slight clunking feeling when I first compress the fork, seals/wipers need lube?? I checked the headset and it is tight. Also, how much fluid should to in the TST and Air side when I change fluid. The top cap on my TST side leaked a tiny bit so I took it off and put some grease on the o-ring and re-tightened. Really love the action of the fork. Please help.


Best thing to do if you are going to service your fork is to pull the lower casting off and grease the seals and dust wiper. If it really is in need these should be changed out for new ones which requires special tools. Most likely you can get away with the same seals all the way until they actually leak, then change them. You will need to remove the ATA and TST cartridge from the fork to do this and the lower casting will come off. Unscrew the top caps, unscrew both 12mm foot nuts, remove.

As far as the amount of oil if you serivce the TST Micro, it is 80mm from the top with it extended. 
When you reinstall the cartridges, you want to add 30cc's of oil to the stanchions for seal/stanchion lubrication.

Happy trails!!
MTD


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks for the speedy reply. How much fluid should go into the Air (non TST) side at service for my 55 ATA??


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## intosite (Jun 28, 2008)

Need help setting sag of XC 600 TST2 140mm that came stock with my Kona Dawg 08.
Am setting the sag to about 20% and i'm quite a light, 128pounds.

Dropped my psi to about 25 for 205% sag, after riding a while, i realised my fork's travel is only 120mm. Measured with a ruler when dismounted. If i step on my wheel and pull my handle bars upwards, i see it extending. Is this normal? I can get it to be at 140mm by pumping in more but it gets way too hard for me, almost a rigid feel.

Is there a negative air chamber i'm missing out or what are my options?

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*XC 600 TST2 air setting help.*



intosite said:
 

> Need help setting sag of XC 600 TST2 140mm that came stock with my Kona Dawg 08.
> Am setting the sag to about 20% and i'm quite a light, 128pounds.
> 
> Dropped my psi to about 25 for 205% sag, after riding a while, i realised my fork's travel is only 120mm. Measured with a ruler when dismounted. If i step on my wheel and pull my handle bars upwards, i see it extending. Is this normal? I can get it to be at 140mm by pumping in more but it gets way too hard for me, almost a rigid feel.
> ...


Did you pressure the lower air valve too? You have pressure in the top valve but there is a second air valve on the bottom. Set that one at about 110psi. Then you should get the fork to sit up a bit more at the beginning. They are both positive air valves and both need pressure for the fork to work correctly. Check it out and let me know if that solved your problem.


----------



## DiRt DeViL (Dec 24, 2003)

What will be the best air setting for a Drop Off triple for a 210lb rider and still have a like buttah feel to it?

The manual suggests 0-15psi on the left leg and 42-55 on the right leg, went with 10/50 it it was like turning the lock on the fork. Tried 5-40 and is a bit better but not smooth.


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## intosite (Jun 28, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Did you pressure the lower air valve too? You have pressure in the top valve but there is a second air valve on the bottom. Set that one at about 110psi. Then you should get the fork to sit up a bit more at the beginning. They are both positive air valves and both need pressure for the fork to work correctly. Check it out and let me know if that solved your problem.


hi, there doesn't seem to be a lower air valve. One looks like a cap nut, and the other side is also a nut with a smaller hex spindle extending from it (sticker beside it says rebound +-).


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks Marz


----------



## wingsno19 (Mar 25, 2007)

*66 ATA Problems!*

I am typing this from a condo in Whistler. Day 1 of a weeklong trip. I have a 66 ATA that I have had for about 8 months of light riding. I rode Whistler today. First thing I noticed is that the ATA was changing on every ride. What I mean is that I started the run at 180mm, and half way down the fork was at 165mm. This was happening all day. So at lunch, I decided to check my air settings to make sure these were set correctly. When I checked the PAR, fluid started flying out of my shock pump. Fluid everywhere. So I quickly took the pump off and wiped everything up. So I have a fork that is not holding the ATA setting on a run, and fluid is spewing out of the PAR air chamber. Not good. What are the next steps? I have a week of riding that I have I paid for up here! Help!


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## jsquid (Oct 23, 2006)

Any idea why I would have oil in the lower air chamber on my 2007 Corsa WC?

Yeah, I went to make some changes to my setup and while letting the pressure out of the lower chamber some oil came out of the valve, not much, maybe about 1cc... 

Cheers


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

wingsno19 said:


> I am typing this from a condo in Whistler. Day 1 of a weeklong trip. I have a 66 ATA that I have had for about 8 months of light riding. I rode Whistler today. First thing I noticed is that the ATA was changing on every ride. What I mean is that I started the run at 180mm, and half way down the fork was at 165mm. This was happening all day. So at lunch, I decided to check my air settings to make sure these were set correctly. When I checked the PAR, fluid started flying out of my shock pump. Fluid everywhere. So I quickly took the pump off and wiped everything up. So I have a fork that is not holding the ATA setting on a run, and fluid is spewing out of the PAR air chamber. Not good. What are the next steps? I have a week of riding that I have I paid for up here! Help!


Well, I think you are ok but you have two things going on. One is the fork is winding down which is none related to the oil that came out of your PAR chamber. There is oil in the PAR. Next time you set it up, flip the bike so the rest of this lubricating oil doesn't come out.

So your real issue is wind down...it sounds like you are turning the top travel adjuster knob evry time you top to check it. Here's what to do. Unscrew the top cap with a freewheel tool. In the threads of the top cap there are two 2mm set screws, tighten those about a half a turn or a full turn. You should be good to go from there.

Let us know if this helps.

Tom
MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jsquid said:


> Any idea why I would have oil in the lower air chamber on my 2007 Corsa WC?
> 
> Yeah, I went to make some changes to my setup and while letting the pressure out of the lower chamber some oil came out of the valve, not much, maybe about 1cc...
> 
> Cheers


There's 2cc's of lubricating oil in the cartridge. Flip the bike the next time you set the air pressure.

MTD


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## jsquid (Oct 23, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> There's 2cc's of lubricating oil in the cartridge. Flip the bike the next time you set the air pressure.
> 
> MTD


Will do. Thanks.


----------



## Reedster (Jul 5, 2005)

*Swap Spring Pre-load for ATA2 on 55*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings,
> Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need.
> 
> We are commited to making the best products on the market. We appologize for any issues you maybe having and are willing to go the extra mile to make everyone happy, even if it requires getting a new fork.
> ...


Hi, I've searched a couple of the really long Marzocchi threads and tried searching, so I apologize if this has been covered already. I couldn't find anything.

I just bought a slightly used Santa Cruz Heckler that came with a 55 TST2 fork. So far, the fork is working great. But, I would like to be able to lower the travel for climbing. I looked at the shock manual and it looks like that TST2 and the ATA2 both have the TST2 cartridge in the right leg.

I was wondering if it was possible to swap out the "Spring preload with Air" on the left side of the TST2 with that ATA2 that is on the left side of the ATA2. And, if so, how much would that cost and is it something I could do myself?

Thanks for all your help. Reading the threads has given me lots of insight into my fork.

Thanks,

~Reed


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

intosite said:


> hi, there doesn't seem to be a lower air valve. One looks like a cap nut, and the other side is also a nut with a smaller hex spindle extending from it (sticker beside it says rebound +-).


Yeah you are right. I got your fork confused with the ATA model.

So I think it is what it is. I actually built up one of those for my 4" bike. I am a bigger guy at 190lbs. There is a long negative spring but not a negative air spring. All you can do is try to find a happy medium with your air preload setting. The other 20mm of travel is due to the long negative spring and your low/light settings. I use 45psi in my fork and it's super buttery. Maybe somewhere around 27-30psi would do you better than the 25psi you have now.

I hope this helps. Sorry I can't do more.

Tom
MTD


----------



## staz (Jan 29, 2004)

*Rocco 3PL IFP psi/Pump adapter?*

This new shock I just got last week did not come with a pump adapter, should it have had one?
Reason is, I pressed in the valve on the lower port and no air came out.
Should 170-200 psi be in there?
Until I get a adapter will any damage occur with zero psi in the IFP?


----------



## uberboy (Jul 25, 2008)

Just wanted to express my satisfaction and gratitude. I had some problems with my 2007 888 sl ata after two seasons of flawless dh performance it started getting stuck at about 6 inches of travel (not related to the ata knob). I contacted marzocchi tech, sent the fork in, got it back in two weeks time and it is perfect. They replaced the ata cartridge, rod, and o-rings all under warranty. They didn't even charge me to ship it back to me! Thanks again for getting me back riding so quickly!


----------



## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

*z2 xfly question*

I know this fork is ancient by today's standards. Its supposed to be 80mm of travel but right out of the box I have only been able to get about 68-70mm. I changed the fluid today hoping clean out all the old crap and put in the correct amounts of fresh fluid. I put 30 psi in both legs and I still only 68-70mm. I followed the manual, 7cc in the bottom of each leg and 60cc's in the top. thx, Mark


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## cataclysm (Jun 25, 2008)

*Clicking Noise 2008 66*

Hello I bought a bike about a month ago with a 66rcv (2008) fork on it and I am loving the fork but I'm concerned about a clicking noise that it makes every time the fork is compressed.
My local bike shop says it is the spring bouncing around inside the fork, and says it is harmless, but wants me to pay $180 for them to sleeve the spring to stop the noise.
Do you guys have an idea of what it may be or what I should do?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*66RCV spring click*



cataclysm said:


> Hello I bought a bike about a month ago with a 66rcv (2008) fork on it and I am loving the fork but I'm concerned about a clicking noise that it makes every time the fork is compressed.
> My local bike shop says it is the spring bouncing around inside the fork, and says it is harmless, but wants me to pay $180 for them to sleeve the spring to stop the noise.
> Do you guys have an idea of what it may be or what I should do?


Well first off you can't sleeve the spring, there's no room and the sleeve will most likely just get sucked down through the bottom of the of the pumping rod and jack up your damping. That will cost you a lot more to fix.

What you can do is check to make sure there is a spring centering spacer on the top and bottom of the spring. You just need to undo the top cap and pull the spring out. There should be a black plastic piece at the bottom and top of the spring. The one that's on the bottom most likely will stay in the fork when you remove the spring. If you look down into the leg and only see the top of the pumping rod, which is silver, then you are missing the spacer. I have yet to see a fork that is missing this spacer but it could happen. If you are missing it let me know I will send you one. That is the only thing I can think of that would cause a click.

Steer clear of sleeving the spring....it won't last.


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## cataclysm (Jun 25, 2008)

Thing is im kinda nervous about messing with the fork i dont know much about bike mechanics


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## SlickShoe671 (Jan 23, 2008)

Here's a quick one for anyone in the know. I have a 66 RCV and like most have not been able to use the full 180mm of travel. I read I can drain some oil out. If this is true, whats the best way to go about this.

Thanks


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Reedster said:


> Hi, I've searched a couple of the really long Marzocchi threads and tried searching, so I apologize if this has been covered already. I couldn't find anything.
> 
> I just bought a slightly used Santa Cruz Heckler that came with a 55 TST2 fork. So far, the fork is working great. But, I would like to be able to lower the travel for climbing. I looked at the shock manual and it looks like that TST2 and the ATA2 both have the TST2 cartridge in the right leg.
> 
> ...


Hi Reed,
You can only swap out the air preload and spring side. You would have to keep the TST2 so you have compression and rebound control. It can be done but would require a full disassembly of the fork to remove the pumping rod and farrell from the base of the Air preload/spring side of the fork. It would cost at least $200.00 to do this. If you want to it could be sent to us to do it. Just give us a call. 661-257-6630


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

SlickShoe671 said:


> Here's a quick one for anyone in the know. I have a 66 RCV and like most have not been able to use the full 180mm of travel. I read I can drain some oil out. If this is true, whats the best way to go about this.
> 
> Thanks


Most likely it is due to too much oil in the fork or too firm of a spring. To remove oil you would need to undo the top caps of the fork, remove the springs and then pull out about 5-10cc's of oil. If you want to do it quickly you could even dip a paper towel into the oil and let it soak up a little oil. Reinstall everything and give it a rip.

If you want to check the height of the oil, maximum oil hieght is 190mm from the top, springs out, fully compressed.

I hope this helps.


----------



## exvitermini (Aug 11, 2006)

hi, 
I have a 06 66 light, I have managed to damage the right(while on bike) side cartridge(part number "703747LA/C" ?) and was wondering if its possible for me to upgrade my internals to a newer/higher model fork such as the 66 sl/ 66sl ata etc

and a parts list of whats needed if possible? 

cheers Tim


----------



## ryman (May 4, 2004)

Marz Tech Dept,

I have a 2006 66SL that came with my '06 Bottlerocket. I've been struggling trying to figure out the proper settings for this fork. I've researched the 66SL setup/"whatcha running your 66SL at threads for the recommended pressures in the + and - and PAR.

I tried setting the fork up with ~35 PSI (positive pressure) in both the RH (the rebound adjust + & - with the little silver cap that says AIR on it) and outside valve of the LH and ~ 90 PSI (negative pressure valve) in the center LH valve. I also put in about 5 PSI in the PAR. When I went to ride the fork gave me almost no travel unless I put ALL my weight (175lbs) onto the fork. I'm under the assumption that something is amuck with the RH positive pressure valve. I let almost all the air out of the RH + pressure valve and now I'm getting a lot more travel. 

Any recommendations as to what might me going on? Or a remedy to this?

Thanks,
Ryan


----------



## jonsd (Dec 1, 2005)

Marz Tech,

I was letting some air out of my Negative air valve and some oil spewed out. Is this normal?

Thanks!


----------



## chober (Jun 25, 2004)

Flip the bike out before you let air outta that valve


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

To Marzocchi Support Tech;I´m quite interested as well in tuning this fork...cheers in advance!!  


Furious_George_ii said:


> Hi, I have a Z1 light ETA fork,but I dont seem to be able to get the last 1" of travel. Could you please suggest what air pressure / oil heights to try? I think the problem may be too much oil in the ETA side, as even with the top cap off the RC2 side I can't compress the fork fully.
> 
> Should the right (RC2) and left (ETA) legs have the same oil height? I ask because although most online resources seem to suggest 135 / 165 oil volumes, the leg that the volumes should go in changes according to source (I think the windwave tech docs contradicted the z1 light tech instructions PDF)
> 
> ...


----------



## Reedster (Jul 5, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hi Reed,
> You can only swap out the air preload and spring side. You would have to keep the TST2 so you have compression and rebound control. It can be done but would require a full disassembly of the fork to remove the pumping rod and farrell from the base of the Air preload/spring side of the fork. It would cost at least $200.00 to do this. If you want to it could be sent to us to do it. Just give us a call. 661-257-6630


That's very cool. I'll give you guys a call next week, after my trip to St. George for some riding.

Thanks,

~Reed


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> If you want to check and measure the oil hieght, undo both top caps, remove the springs, and compress the fork all the way. Now you can measure from the top edge of the crown (where the cap screws in) to the top of the oil. That should be a maximum hieght of 45mm all the way down to 60mm. With the lower hieght (bigger number) you will bottom-out easier since oil hieght is the bottoming control.
> 
> There's no problem running a single spring and some air preload to compensate for the spring lost. Two springs might just be too stiff even if you lower the oil hieght.


cant seem to use all the travel of my fork...is it safe to extract oil even if it is 65mm from the top? what happens if there is lesser oil than normal...


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## biker_myers (Jan 14, 2004)

*Marathon S - 29er lock out problems*

Hi -

First, very cool of you to have this forum. Great for customer relations:thumbsup:

I have a Marathon S that came stock on my 2002 Gary Fisher Supercal 29 that I rebuilt recently. Rebuild consisted of replacing the seals and changing the oil after a thorough cleaning. After it was all together I was out on a test ride and the lockout feature was gone - I am going to tear it down again but was hoping that you might have a couple of technical hints to help me set it right.

Thanks,

Steve


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## skeered1 (Jul 30, 2007)

I also have this posted but wanna try my luck here:

'bought a used Marz All mtn SL and being a noob, I'm having trouble setting up the proper air pressure. I followed the manual on-line w/c requires 76psi negative air and 28psi positive air (I'm 140 lbs.). Both valves are on the left leg - neg. in the center and pos. on the outside. I let all the air out on both chambers before inflating for my weight. At this point, the fork feels very stiff when I compress it down. I noticed that it becomes more plush if I increase the negative air pressure (up to 200psi). What am I doing wrong? is the fork possibly shot? Thanks


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## uberboy (Jul 25, 2008)

This might work: let all of the air out of the top positive valve and ata valv----under cap on top of right leg (remove rubber stopper and rotate adjuster clockwise til you see the air valve----depends on year), then let the air out of the negative valve. Fill the negative to about 70psi and then the positive valves to about 25psi. If that doesn't work then something might be wrong.Good luck!


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## Wil109 (Jul 2, 2007)

*Do I need to worry about this?*

Hi Marzocchi Tech Department,

I PM'd this to ya, but wasn't sure if your responding to mail. Can you tell me if my fork is still ok with this ding. Its about 1 - 1.5 mm into the lower, as you can see its quite low down. I'm not sure if the stanchions will hit that low on full travel being used.

Can you let me know what you think please?

Many thanks

Wil


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

I just bought a 140mm 55r. It feels a bit squishy with 15psi (your max recommended psi) in the assist side. It bottoms out on a 2.5ft drop. I'm about 195-200lbs on a FRHT.

Is there a stiffer coil spring I can install or should I exceed the max pressure of 15psi?


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## whatever (Feb 6, 2007)

I'm buying a 888 RC2X WC (2007) and it has 3.2 spring inside. Will this fit me with my weight 145 lbs ?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

whatever said:


> I'm buying a 888 RC2X WC (2007) and it has 3.2 spring inside. Will this fit me with my weight 145 lbs ?


That is the light spring rate for that year so you should be good to go. You can always remove one spring and run that or get a firmer spring and only use one. I would try it and then decide.


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## whatever (Feb 6, 2007)

Ok, thank you for such fast answer.


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## xriest (Apr 16, 2007)

Is it true that the 2008 forks have too much oil in them?
My 66rcv is very stiff mid to end stroke, I am only getting about 6" of travel. 
I removed a little bit of oil from each leg by flipping the fork upside down and pressing in the air preload valve.
It feels a little bit smoother but I am still not getting full travel, should I remove more oil?


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## sammyb304 (Oct 17, 2008)

I have only just opened my new fork (2008 66 ATA) which at first glance is very impressive and i cannot wait to use it - I have to wait a few months though because I am building the bike up.
I do however, have an issue. I measured the stanchions and found that when the ATA is set for maximum travel (I cannot turn it any further) I can only achieve 177mm travel. When I turn the ATA knob all the way down for least travel, I achieve 137mm travel. I am confused. Clearly the ATA works because it moves the whole 40mm it is meant to but obviously something is not set up correctly. Will the forks break in and achieve 180/140 travel they were designed to do? What service can I expect to get if the problem does not rectify itself?


----------



## chrisdupe (Nov 12, 2008)

*Xc 600 Tst2*

I just picked up a 2008 XC 600 TST2 120mm. I was wondering if there is any internal adjustment to shorten the travel down to 110 or 100mm?
Thank you!


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

I've got an unknown year Z3 qr20, alloy steerer, bolt on crown and brace, disc tabs were bolt-on as well.

I'm looking to use the lowers, make my own brace and pop them onto some longer travel DC uppers with suitably shortened springs and a spacer to give myself a longer travel 29er fork.

How long did Zocchi use the same diameter stanchions and at any point did the width between the legs change?
Thinking of an '02 or '03 JrT or something as the uppers.

I'd wager this is one of the first couple years of QR20 if that helps determine what size stanchions I'm looking for.

Cheers


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## supervokes (Apr 21, 2007)

Has Marz redesigned the BUSHINGS in the 2009 888 offerings to get rid of the slop in the stanchions??

I have 2 sets of forks .. one brand new .. and both have bushing slop.

There is NO WAY they can be designed like this .. rattling as you go down the hill. I have owned 2004 and 2005 models and they had no slop. Maybe a manufacturing issue given they are built in Taiwan now?? My buddy has a 2008 66, and its the EXACT same.

Anyway, I am looking to buy a new fork in 09, but if busing slop is "normal" in the 09 models, I will look at other offerings. Is Marz using new bushing in the 09 models ... ones that don't cause stanchion slop??

Can you comment on the bushing issues ... surely I am not the first to comment (but don't have time to read "x" hundred pages of posts) ...

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

supervokes said:


> Has Marz redesigned the BUSHINGS in the 2009 888 offerings to get rid of the slop in the stanchions??
> 
> I have 2 sets of forks .. one brand new .. and both have bushing slop.
> 
> ...


Hello,
We have already adjusted the fitting of the bushings and everything, so far, has been a lot better on the fitment tolerence between the stanchions and the bushings. All 2009 forks have been updated. As far as your freinds 08 66, that uses basically the same casting so it would have been effected too.

I hope this helps you,
MTD


----------



## supervokes (Apr 21, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hello,
> We have already adjusted the fitting of the bushings and everything, so far, has been a lot better on the fitment tolerence between the stanchions and the bushings. All 2009 forks have been updated. As far as your freinds 08 66, that uses basically the same casting so it would have been effected too.
> 
> I hope this helps you,
> MTD


Great!

What about my existing 2 888's ... can the bushings be replaced quite easily by my LBS or do I have to send them back to Marzocchi Tech???

One is brand new, while the other has about 10 hrs use on it.

Just wondering, as I would like to have them both fixed if its something easy to do??

Thanks


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## Zoke2 (Nov 16, 2007)

chrisdupe said:


> I just picked up a 2008 XC 600 TST2 120mm. I was wondering if there is any internal adjustment to shorten the travel down to 110 or 100mm?
> Thank you!


I have the same fork and have been trying to find out the same thing with no luck so far


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

*Hey Tom (MTD), any news on the new tst endcap?*

Hi Tom, I have been chasing a new endcap for my tst2 cart to resolve the hydrolock issues for a while now. A month or so ago you said you would send one out to me; I PM'd you with the relevant details, but haven't had a reply from you or seen anything in the mail. Could you please let me know what the story is? Cheers, Steve


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

*negative spring reduces travel?*

When my fork is fully compressed with both carts removed ('08 xc600 ata2) there is about 5mm of stanchion exposed; ie the wipers do not touch the crown on full compression. After rebuilding the ata cart due to faulty seals and then repressurising, it extended so that there was 145mm of stanchion exposed, which I assume equated to a theoretical 140mm travel. 
Once the fork has been pressurised and compressed, it only extends to leave 140mm of exposed stanchion, equating to 135mm travel. Is this related to the negative spring pressure preventing full extension? If so, is there a way to modify the cart to regain my lost 5mm? I am thinking maybe the dimple needs to be filled in with something and then re-done a bit higher up the cart tube? Any thoughts/comments from those in the know? Cheers, Steve


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

supervokes said:


> Great!
> 
> What about my existing 2 888's ... can the bushings be replaced quite easily by my LBS or do I have to send them back to Marzocchi Tech???
> 
> ...


Well not all 888 and 66 forks were oversized, just a large amount. Also it is not the bushing that is oversized it's the lower casting. So in order to correct it, first it would have to come to us to be inspected and know if it is oversized, then we would change the entire bottom castings and rebuild your fork. If you want to have your fork inspected you can call us and set-up an RA#.

661-257-6630

I hope this helps. 
MTD


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Stevo the Devo said:


> When my fork is fully compressed with both carts removed ('08 xc600 ata2) there is about 5mm of stanchion exposed; ie the wipers do not touch the crown on full compression. After rebuilding the ata cart due to faulty seals and then repressurising, it extended so that there was 145mm of stanchion exposed, which I assume equated to a theoretical 140mm travel.
> Once the fork has been pressurised and compressed, it only extends to leave 140mm of exposed stanchion, equating to 135mm travel. Is this related to the negative spring pressure preventing full extension? If so, is there a way to modify the cart to regain my lost 5mm? I am thinking maybe the dimple needs to be filled in with something and then re-done a bit higher up the cart tube? Any thoughts/comments from those in the know? Cheers, Steve


Hi Steve,
Your parts are leaving today. I've been gone and the last week I have ordered to go to my "happy place", the machine shop, and dream up something new . I can't wait to get out and ride:thumbsup:

Anyways, to answer you above question, the ATA cartridge has a built in negative air chamber. As you change the positive air it self adjusts the negative air pressure. Ok, so now that you know this, there is either a big bumper or an o-ring inside this negative air chamber sitting against the main piston for a backup safety measure.

Here's the effect of the bumper and/or the o-ring;
If you have the o-ring, the negative air chamber will capture more pressured air and sit slightly lower the the big bumper.

Will the big bumper, less air is captured and the fork is les plush off the top and actually stays extended more even after you compres the fork and set the negative air chamber pressure.

So the thing to look at is if you have the bumper or the o-ring up against the main air piston.

As far as the travel goes, the small amount of negative air travel is considered part of the travel.

I hope this sheds some light on the situation. There's really now other way to extend the cartridge more to have the fork sit higher in the travel except for using the big bumper.

Cheers,
Tom
MTD USA
It's time to go back to my happy place now.


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

Thanks Tom, I'm looking forward to getting this baby fixed for good. RE the negative spring; I have the thick bumper, so looks like I'm outta luck there; in theory, could the dimple that allows the spring pressures to equalize be moved another 5mm (or so) up the tube to decrease the size of the negative spring chamber and increase the travel slightly? I would have thought the dimple would be positioned so that it allowed the bumper to rest against the top of the cart (al la prior to first compression) at full extension, as I cannot imagine how that extra negative travel could be actually used.
On a different note, is there any way to tweak the rebound behaviour of the fork other than oil weight? I know the compression damper can easily be converted to a shimmed piston, but is there anything that can be done to the rebound side? Do you think there would be any benefit to rounding off the edges of the ports in the compression piston to (theoretically) reduce turbulence/cavitation, or maybe even increasing the size of the ports themselves? Maybe I'm digging a bit deep here, but I figure you are the man who would know, and it doesn't hurt to ask, right?
Anyway, hope the happy place is treating you well and you are dreaming up some really nice new toys for us all. Thanks again for your help; if it is of any use, I think you deserve to take a "mental health day"; call in sick and go riding instead!! Cheers, Steve


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## perryc (Nov 21, 2008)

*2002 Marzocchi Bomber*

I am a newbie here and I have a question about this fork that I bought from EBAY. It's a 200 Marz Bomber. The seller said it needs a rebuild. I am new to this so I need help. I ride a FELT road bike and would like to cross train using my 1992 GT AVALANCHE. Can I buy parts for this particular fork and is it easy to service? I have a picture of the fork, it hasn't arrived yet. Attached is a photo of the fork and my GT. Will this fork work properly with my frame? WOn't it mess up the geometry?


----------



## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

That looks like a longer travel Zoke. They're all "Bombers", so that doesn't provide much help to describe it as such.

Anyhow, it's a longer travel one, and it will likely mess up your geo. Depending on which model it is, it would likely be really easy to service, though you need to properly ID it so you can be informed of the slight variations.


----------



## Sim2u (Nov 22, 2006)

Either way, I would not do it yourself (the re-build that is) unless you know what you are doing...


----------



## perryc (Nov 21, 2008)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Anyhow, it's a longer travel one, and it will likely mess up your geo.


What performance will I be getting with it then, assuming I've already rebuilt it? The seller mentioned 100 to 130 mm.


----------



## w00tGranny (Nov 8, 2008)

*Normal?*

I bought a Preston which came with a Marzocchi Roco Air R rear suspension. I noticed that the suspension makes a "squishy" sound when compressed similar to the sound of shaking a soda can. Is this normal? This is my first air suspension and first real rear suspension bike... I'm a total noob. Thanks in advance.


----------



## huck*this (Mar 31, 2006)

Question for the Rocco guru's...... What spring coil will fit the Rocco RC? I need a 700# with a 2.00 stroke. Will a fox, manitou, etc. fit over the body?

Thanks in advance.....


----------



## w00tGranny (Nov 8, 2008)

*Normal?*

I bought a Preston which came with a Marzocchi Roco Air R rear suspension. I noticed that the suspension makes a "squishy" sound when compressed similar to the sound of shaking a soda can. Is this normal? This is my first air suspension and first real rear suspension bike... I'm a total noob. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hi Steve,
> Your parts are leaving today. I've been gone and the last week I have ordered to go to my "happy place", the machine shop, and dream up something new . I can't wait to get out and ride:thumbsup:
> 
> Cheers,
> ...


Hey Tom,
Just wanted to let you know the new damper cartridge (I was only expecting an end-cap!) turned up today; thanks again for all your help. Once I pop it in, my fork is going to be dialled and fully sorted, and I have you to thank for it.:thumbsup: I hope you let the powers-that-be know that had it not been for your help, I would have been bagging Marz to everyone I know; as it is, I am a huge fan and will happily recommend them to all, safe in the knowledge that not only do Marz products work very well, the customer support is top notch if you ever need it. You deserve a pay rise! 
Cheers, Steve


----------



## pantsman (Nov 12, 2008)

Hi!

I have a 2008 Specialized Sx Trail 1 which came with a 55 TST2 fork. The bike was bought in June and hasn't been ridden that much until Whistler closed!

Recently I have lost most of my travel in the fork, ie it went from full travel to at best 50mm. From what I have been told this is a common problem in the 55 ATA, but not sure about the TST2 model?

The other main issue you may or may not be able to help me with, is the bike was purchased in Whistler, but I am now back home in Australia. I know there shouldn't be a problem with International warranty, but am kind of expecting a headache. I have tried to contact the importer to no avail. Do you have a person in Australia I could get in to contact with?

Thanks in advance,

Nath


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

pantsman said:


> Hi!
> 
> I have a 2008 Specialized Sx Trail 1 which came with a 55 TST2 fork. The bike was bought in June and hasn't been ridden that much until Whistler closed!
> 
> ...


Sounds like you have a leaking (undersized) seal in the main air spring; easy and cheap to fix. The new Australian distributor is SCV imports and they are usually pretty good to deal with. Their number is 02 4353 2633. Do a quick search for other potential problems, esp ata winddown and hydro lock in the damper. These are also quick and easy to fix. Good luck, the fork will be awesome once you get it sorted out. Cheers, Steve


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

When converting a 55r from 140 to 160mm, are there any seals or crush washer (like on Fox) that need replacing?

Do I just remove nut at the bottom of the spring side leg and remove the spring side guts...switch the spacer from below to above?

Thx


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

pantsman said:


> Hi!
> 
> I have a 2008 Specialized Sx Trail 1 which came with a 55 TST2 fork. The bike was bought in June and hasn't been ridden that much until Whistler closed!
> 
> ...


Hi Nath,
Further to our PM, see here http://www.marzocchi.com/System/2802/BOMBER_2008_WARRANTY_EN.pdf
taking note of para 5.2 where I believe SCV would be an "authorised Marzocchi dealer". You might want to bring it to their attention...
Cheers, Steve


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## TheDon (Oct 18, 2005)

So has Marzocchi finally sorted out the forks this year??

I heard of a lot of systemic problems in a lot of the forks (ATA, TST etc).

This has held me off getting something to upgrade my 2005 66RC (which has never had any issues and is sooo smooth).

I want to get an ATA system fork for my all-mountain ride. I am looking at either a 55ATA or a 66ATA. But will not buy if there is a high likelihood of having to send it back for repairs.

I hear a few reports of people saying their 2008 forks have had 2009 ATA cartridges installed and thus far has cured the problems. Can someone official confirm this?


----------



## special k (Mar 15, 2005)

TheDon said:


> So has Marzocchi finally sorted out the forks this year??
> 
> ...
> I want to get an ATA system fork for my all-mountain ride. I am looking at either a 55ATA or a 66ATA. But will not buy if there is a high likelihood of having to send it back for repairs.
> ...


I will let you know. I sent my '08 55 ATA back to Marz last week after having talked to Ronnie at Marz warranty. My ATA cartridge O-rings failed so I end up with the same pressure in the PAR & negative chamber. I also heard the '09 cartridge has been redesigned so I hope they put one of these new ATA cartridges in my fork & that would resolve the problem. I also had them check out some stiction on the fork as long as they have it there. I'm not up to speed on other threads about the seals & castings and the stiction.

Marz got my fork on friday 12/05 so I'll post up on how fast the warranty service goes and how the fork turns out. Ronnie sounded pretty cool about a quick turnaround so I'm hoping they get to it soon. Maybe if Tom reads this he could give us some info on my fork.

We will see.


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## robotfood (Mar 24, 2004)

I am also looking at getting a 2008 55 ata. Such good deals on them right now. Do all the 55 ata's have the slop problem along with the ata cartridge problem or is it a small batch? I'm wondering if its worth buying and seeing if i get one of the good ones and if not having Marz warranty it.


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## TheDon (Oct 18, 2005)

Thanks Special K.

I really need a new fork, travel adjust would be a great way to get the most out of my bike. So it will be great to see how well the big M has sorted the problems of the 2008 ATA


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## kirby85 (Jul 14, 2008)

*55 ata2 top out*

Hi, have spent a good while searching previous posts but appologies if this has already been covered.

I have a 55 ata2 from 2008. I'm having trouble with my forks hitting the top stoppers really hard, i.e. 'topping out'. I only run about 10 psi in the left leg because any more and the fork becomes far too stiff to use and my rebound is set about average.

Have you any ideas as to why this is happening? I noticed there is no negative pressure valve, how is this chamber controlled? thought this could be part of the problem.

Regards, Simon


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

Marzocchi Drop Off 2005. I have 2 air fills on my shocks left and right and I was wondering if it was split into rebound 1 side and preload the other side? Or is it more simple than that? Please let me know


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

K_Labs said:


> Marzocchi Drop Off 2005. I have 2 air fills on my shocks left and right and I was wondering if it was split into rebound 1 side and preload the other side? Or is it more simple than that? Please let me know


It shouldn't matter what side you add air if your fork is the coil version (with air preload).

I usually would split the air pressure between the two sides (on my old Drop-Off fork) to keep the spring rate even on both legs, but that is not required.


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

I don't know what to run them at as these are my first air forks. For Example if I were to run them at 100 would I put 50/50? Is there any way to find out exactly what forks they are by some numbers or something? They have no stickers


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

K_Labs said:


> I don't know what to run them at as these are my first air forks. For Example if I were to run them at 100 would I put 50/50? Is there any way to find out exactly what forks they are by some numbers or something? They have no stickers


The 2005 drop off should have one spring in the right leg. If this is the case, then you could put air 0-55psi in the non-spring side. If you want more suppleness then I would put the air preload on the spring side. With the spring in the stanchion you will only need 0-20psi. This should be enough to set your sag and get you out riding. The lower pressure allows the fork to be more supple due to the lower PSI and break away forces. If this isn't enough to get your spring right set correctly you can add to the non-spring leg in 5psi incremants until you get it dialed.

You can also get a second spring for this fork and run next to no air and have a super buttery fork.

Happy Holidays.


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

Really DUmb QuestioN but Which side is the right I know my left from right but is it from the seat looking at the forks or is it from the front tire looking towards the seat


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

K_Labs said:


> Really DUmb QuestioN but Which side is the right I know my left from right but is it from the seat looking at the forks or is it from the front tire looking towards the seat


It's the riders point of view. So as you are sitting on the bike.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

kirby85 said:


> Hi, have spent a good while searching previous posts but appologies if this has already been covered.
> 
> I have a 55 ata2 from 2008. I'm having trouble with my forks hitting the top stoppers really hard, i.e. 'topping out'. I only run about 10 psi in the left leg because any more and the fork becomes far too stiff to use and my rebound is set about average.
> 
> ...


Hi Simon,
It sounds like something is seriously wrong with your fork. Does the TST compression on top actually lock-up? If it doesn't then this is the potential problem. It am thinking something is not assembled correctly. 
Thinking outloud, The air preload side of the fork should have no problem controlling topout clunking, unless (potential problem #2) there is too soft a topout spring in the fork. The only way to check it is to take the fork completely apart and check it. This isn't a super easy thing to do unless know your way around assembling and disassembling our forks.

Send me a PM if you would like to have us look at your fork. I will get you taken care of. Sorry for the problems.


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

Thanks for the help.


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

*04 z150 fr sl*

i'll be getting this fork next week.

anyway, can i use this one for freeriding or dirt jumping and street?

i've been using coil suspension forks and this one will be my first air suspension.

1. can i put coil into one leg of the fork? i like the feel of coil suspensions over air.

thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

freeride_waray said:


> i'll be getting this fork next week.
> 
> anyway, can i use this one for freeriding or dirt jumping and street?
> 
> ...


You can freeride and DJ that fork!

You can also change to a coil but it would require a new cartridge, top cap, knob and footnut.

Happy Holidays


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## Bogdan (Feb 7, 2007)

I have a 2006 MX COMP ETA+TAS (100-120mm) and would like to use a 185mm (7") disk brake rotor up front. Since the manual only mentions 6" rotors I wanted to know if I would have any problems running the 185mm?

Thank you.


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## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

Please, give me the manual for 66rc2eta, but not the one, which is on the www.marzocchi.com, I would like the detailed manual, describing only this fork, its' details, everithing which is inside and etc. thx)


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## ciaffez (Dec 13, 2008)

Sorry fo trouble. found the answer in one of the earllier threads... thanks anyway


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## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

missed


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## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

and one more question) I wanna use "Eta" for 4x-racing or when I ride street, may it damage my fork?


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## fakiee (Jul 16, 2007)

*HELP! XC 500 (TST 2 - 2007 OEM) Oil Height*

Anyone know what oil height to use for the right hand leg?

Ive been told to run the TST2 (bladder + air pressure) at 30mm and 0PSI and run the left leg at whatever PSI suits.

Also the rebound knob is missing, how does the external rebound work - when turning it tunrs 3/4 way the clicks then I can keep tunring aonther 3/4 until it clicks again, is this ment to happen? is it ment ot keep turning or should it stop?


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

fakiee said:


> Anyone know what oil height to use for the right hand leg?
> 
> Ive been told to run the TST2 (bladder + air pressure) at 30mm and 0PSI and run the left leg at whatever PSI suits.
> 
> Also the rebound knob is missing, how does the external rebound work - when turning it tunrs 3/4 way the clicks then I can keep tunring aonther 3/4 until it clicks again, is this ment to happen? is it ment ot keep turning or should it stop?


Hi Fakiee, I have the 08 tst2 cart which doesn't have a bladder, but I don't think you can put (pressurised) air in the cart at all. There should be 30cc of oil in the right leg as splash lube for the bushings, but that's about it, unless you plan on tweaking the internals of the cartridge itself. The rebound knob missing is not an issue in itself (I actually removed mine) as long as you can still turn the adjuster underneath the knob. Not sure about the distance between clicks; main thing to worry about is whether it actually adjusts the rebound or not I guess. In use, it is highly unlikely to turn accidentally. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve


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## xray_ed (Oct 9, 2004)

OK, my turn!

I have a 2005 (I think!) MX comp ETA 105 mm fork & lately, it's been losing air during rides. I changed the oil & cleaned the Schrader valve pretty well, but no go. The fork is not leaking oil at all.

Are the seals just shot? Any recommendations as to who I could send it to for a rebuild? I use PUSH for my Fox, but they don't do Zoke. I might could do it myself, but I kinda wanted the fork to work afterwards.  

Thanks!


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## fakiee (Jul 16, 2007)

Stevo the Devo said:


> Hi Fakiee, I have the 08 tst2 cart which doesn't have a bladder, but I don't think you can put (pressurised) air in the cart at all. There should be 30cc of oil in the right leg as splash lube for the bushings, but that's about it, unless you plan on tweaking the internals of the cartridge itself. The rebound knob missing is not an issue in itself (I actually removed mine) as long as you can still turn the adjuster underneath the knob. Not sure about the distance between clicks; main thing to worry about is whether it actually adjusts the rebound or not I guess. In use, it is highly unlikely to turn accidentally. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve


Thanks for the help Stevo the Devo,

I think the 07 differs from the 08. It does have pressure on the left leg TST2 side, you need a marz adaptor to put air in using a standard shock pump.. The right leg has a standard +air which takes 150cc of 7.5wt according the Marz manual.

With the forks setup with 150cc RHL and 50cc LHL with 0psi (measurements recommended by windwave). I then have to pump the RHL to 60-70psi to get full travel. However the first 3cm of travel is like there is no compression and the forsk are slack, and then mid travel is really heavy and slow and there is now way it will compress down to full travel. Can anybody recommend some settings for this particular model?

Cant get me head around the rebound, there are no instructions for this particular model in the manual or anywhere on the web for that matter - I don't think its the same rebound found on MXs. The rebound on the XC500s seems to click after only a short turn - which makes me think it should not turn past this click.....who knows! Marz tech?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Coldat said:


> Please, give me the manual for 66rc2eta, but not the one, which is on the www.marzocchi.com, I would like the detailed manual, describing only this fork, its' details, everithing which is inside and etc. thx)


Hello,
Unfortunetely I don't have a detailed manual for the fork. I wish we did but we don't. Is there something specific I could help you with? It might be easier to contact me via a PM. This thread is insanely huge and it's very hard to keep track of everyone and everything on here.

Sorry I don't have the manual. 
MTDUSA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Coldat said:


> and one more question) I wanna use "Eta" for 4x-racing or when I ride street, may it damage my fork?


The ETA feature is a lock-down feature so if you use it when descending your fork will get shorter and shorter until you only have 40mm of travel left. You can do this but it is not recommended. That fork is a beast for 4X racing maybe a DJ or 4X fork would be better for this application. Just an idea.

Cheers,
MTDUSA


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## iknowclint (Nov 18, 2008)

*Marzocchi Bomber Marathon SL 04*

I just got a used bike with Marzocchi Bomber Marathon SL 04 , I have never had a air shock...i have been reading about how to adjust the air... the only question is, Where do i get the adapter to add air to the shock? I am in arizona. Thank


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

xray_ed said:


> OK, my turn!
> 
> I have a 2005 (I think!) MX comp ETA 105 mm fork & lately, it's been losing air during rides. I changed the oil & cleaned the Schrader valve pretty well, but no go. The fork is not leaking oil at all.
> 
> ...


You can send it directly to us for a rebuild. Give us a call 661-257-6630. It might be something as simple as the top cap o-ring being damaged or the actual valve cores needing to be replaced. If you've never changed the seals on your fork you are most likely due for a rebuild but I don't think this is the reason for your air leakage unless you are seeing oil come out from there.

Pressure your fork up and then with soapy water drench the top cap area and see if you have any bubbling. You will find you leak pretty easy this way.

Cheers,
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

iknowclint said:


> I just got a used bike with Marzocchi Bomber Marathon SL 04 , I have never had a air shock...i have been reading about how to adjust the air... the only question is, Where do i get the adapter to add air to the shock? I am in arizona. Thank


Just call up one of your local shops, they can order the adapter. 
MTD USA


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## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

"With the forks setup with 150cc RHL and 50cc LHL with 0psi (measurements recommended by windwave). I then have to pump the RHL to 60-70psi to get full travel. However the first 3cm of travel is like there is no compression and the forsk are slack, and then mid travel is really heavy and slow and there is now way it will compress down to full travel. Can anybody recommend some settings for this particular model?"

HI Fakiee, When you say you have to pump the RHS up to 60-70psi to get full travel, do you actually mean full extension? Out of curiosity, are you closing the top caps with the fork compressed, or extended? I found with my fork that if I closed them with fork compressed, the air in the stanchions acted like a negative spring and my fork would not extend fully, even running higher pressure in the spring; it was very plush initially (-ive spring effect) but would not get full travel. This sounds a bit like some of your issues. As for the rebound, I can't offer any suggestions. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, Steve


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## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hello,
> Unfortunetely I don't have a detailed manual for the fork. I wish we did but we don't. Is there something specific I could help you with? It might be easier to contact me via a PM. This thread is insanely huge and it's very hard to keep track of everyone and everything on here.
> 
> Sorry I don't have the manual.
> MTDUSA


thx, I've already solved the problem) I wanted to change the position of "eta" regulator because the hydroline could push it in some cases) I've found the similar manual about 66fv2eta)


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## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

So, it may damage only me, not fork, yeah?) I ride 4x or dirt only to have fun with my friend sometimes, or to get into shape before slope, dropping or dh) So 4x or dj forks are not 4 me)


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## Bogdan (Feb 7, 2007)

Re-post ... Mr. *MTD USA*, seems you missed my original post.

"I have a 2006 MX COMP ETA+TAS (100-120mm) and would like to use a 185mm (7") disk brake rotor up front. Since the manual only mentions 6" rotors I wanted to know if I would have any problems running the 185mm?"

Thank you.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Bogdan said:


> Re-post ... Mr. *MTD USA*, seems you missed my original post.
> 
> "I have a 2006 MX COMP ETA+TAS (100-120mm) and would like to use a 185mm (7") disk brake rotor up front. Since the manual only mentions 6" rotors I wanted to know if I would have any problems running the 185mm?"
> 
> Thank you.


7" rotor should not be a problem. Happy trails!


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## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Hi there, how much air is it supposed to run on a Marzocchi Z1 Light Eta 06?? the figures the manual gives are too much pressure for the fork to deal with small bumps and I can't get full travel with this numbers and it doesn't give the SAG it's supposed for my weight (165lbs)....is it okay to run the fork almost w/o air?? there's also a knocking noise on the fork which I don't know if it's the spring hitting the stanchions or it's the compression cartdrige that makes tha noise....


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

*04 Drop Off II - How to reduce travel?*

Hey MTS - can you point me to instructions and/or parts on how to reduce travel in my non-ETA 2004 Drop Off II? 
I need to reduce travel from 130 to 100 or 110 - are spacers commercially available for this? 
Thanks in advance!:thumbsup:


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

CharacterZero said:


> Hey MTS - can you point me to instructions and/or parts on how to reduce travel in my non-ETA 2004 Drop Off II?
> I need to reduce travel from 130 to 100 or 110 - are spacers commercially available for this?
> Thanks in advance!:thumbsup:


The Drop Off II is an easy fork to convert. Basically it's our pumping rod system and has been a standard system for years. You will need to comletely disassemble the fork to do it. 
I have attached a pdf for a 55 R. If you look at this pdf, part #85 is a reducer spacer. Your fork probably has one since the fork can go all the way to 150mm travel. With it being 130mm you will want to add a spacer to get you to the travel you want. So take the 20mm plastic spacer out and just match it up with a piece of pvc pipe, you can just add a piece to get you to your travel or cut another piece to include the one that's in there. 
The biggest problem I can see is the main spring in the top of the fork. It might be too long to get the top cap threaded in. You can tell the minute you take the top caps off during disassembly. If you have a spacer there already you are good to go. If there's no spacer it might be tough to get the spring back in. This is your limiting factor.

Maximum oil level, fork fully compressed spring removed, is 45mm, 55mm is normally a good setting.

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=370415&d=1213989449


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## freeride_waray (Jul 10, 2008)

*z150 fr sl tuning*

finally i got the fork....

by the way, how do i tune this fork? im 125 lbs. how does those valves work? i mean, the negative air is for rebound and what does the other valve (off-center) do? should i put the same amount of air that i put in the other leg? and for example i put, 30 psi in the positive air (ecc leg), how much air will i put in the rebound to avoid topping out, and in the off center valve?

thanks..... :thumbsup:


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The Drop Off II is an easy fork to convert. Basically it's our pumping rod system and has been a standard system for years. You will need to comletely disassemble the fork to do it.
> I have attached a pdf for a 55 R. If you look at this pdf, part #85 is a reducer spacer. Your fork probably has one since the fork can go all the way to 150mm travel. With it being 130mm you will want to add a spacer to get you to the travel you want. So take the 20mm plastic spacer out and just match it up with a piece of pvc pipe, you can just add a piece to get you to your travel or cut another piece to include the one that's in there.
> The biggest problem I can see is the main spring in the top of the fork. It might be too long to get the top cap threaded in. You can tell the minute you take the top caps off during disassembly. If you have a spacer there already you are good to go. If there's no spacer it might be tough to get the spring back in. This is your limiting factor.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the information, I will have to crack this fork open here in the coming weeks. It is just too raked out on my new bike and I was losing it in turns!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

freeride_waray said:


> finally i got the fork....
> 
> by the way, how do i tune this fork? im 125 lbs. how does those valves work? i mean, the negative air is for rebound and what does the other valve (off-center) do? should i put the same amount of air that i put in the other leg? and for example i put, 30 psi in the positive air (ecc leg), how much air will i put in the rebound to avoid topping out, and in the off center valve?
> 
> thanks..... :thumbsup:


You want to have three times the amount of air in the negative than you do in the positive, so for you I would but about 75psi in the negative and 25psi in the positive (center valve). If you want it a little stiffer off the top run around 30psi. More plush try 20psi.

I hope this helps,
MTD TOM


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## All Mountain (Dec 9, 2005)

This thread: Marzocchi Technical Info has also has some good info in it for reference. It is closed as MTD will mainly look at this thread the answer questions.

Cheers
AM


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## fakiee (Jul 16, 2007)

Thanks Steve,

I know what you mean about the negative air, it does seem to have some sort of vacuum that can only be remedied by rebuilding the forks in a particular way. Currently I am tightening the top caps when the forks are fully compressed - I will try tightening them at the longest _possible_ extension. I say this because I cannot fully extend the forks as there is a spring that pulls them back at a certain point, even with no oil and top caps off.

I sorted the rebound. I took the adjuster from my marz MX and placed it on the XC500. This allowed me to turn the adjuster adequately. The adjuster does click between turns - about 18 clicks between each limit. Reason I asked is because on my MX if you turn past the click you can damage/break the rebound!

Cheers,
Andy.:thumbsup:


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## hovdeboj (Nov 4, 2005)

*Need Marz tech help XC 700*

Marz Tech - Help with XC 700 retro (repost from other thread)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm trying to sort out my fork and am thoroughly frustrated and confused. I've already searched the site and haven't had much luck and the manual is confusing, so bear with the longwinded description/request that follows but I want to give as much background as possible.

I have an aftermarket 2007 XC 700 with 100 mm travel, TST2, ETA. It's installed on a Ti hard tail weighing around 25 pounds. I weight between 190 and 200 pounds depending on gear. My riding is XC and trails mostly single track no drops over 18" no jumping or hucking. bought in winter of 07 and used for one season in 08

I have the preload set as per the manual to the max recommended pressure of 1bar/15psi. The sag is ok, might be a little too much, I get full travel. I have the TST2 air set at 2bar/30psi as per the manual. Lockout, ETA and Rebound all seem to work fine looses a little air over time but no oil leak.

My problem is the fork bottoms out but not consistently, sometimes when coming off a small drop (down a curb) and sometimes when preloading before hopping an obstacle like a log or rock. It also tends to dive or compress through turns, especially when descending.

I've checked and rechecked the air pressure which is fine according to the manual. I also checked with the local shop about stiffer springs which apparently are not available for that fork.

The Marz website lists oil volumes of 55ml in right leg and 160 ml in the left leg for my weight. Can someone tell me what the stock oil volumes are and if I need to add oil?

Would using heavier oil (>7.5 wt) improve compression dampening?

The manual says the TST2 system uses a serviceable sealed cartridge but later states the cartridge should be replaced every 50 hours. Can the cartridge be serviced or must it be replaced.

Would increasing the air preload help? The manual gives a pretty narrow range of 0 to 1 bar regardless of rider weight but does not say if this is the maximum or just a recommended range.

Are service instruction or shop manuals available I have rebuilt forks before and usually do all my own maintenance.

Unless I'm overlooking something, which is entirely possible, I'm thinking I may have to switch to another fork which would be a shame as I quite like this one and couldn't live without the ETA.

Thanks in advance


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

*08 55 ETA thru-axle size*

hi,

the thru-axle on my 55 ETA's is slightly too small in circumference. we're talking a bees d!ck here, but it's enough that the bearings in my hope bulb hub shift around. this translates to a few mils of lateral movement at the tire, which is very annoying!

i've tried different bearings, same deal, so it's not the hub. had the wheel on a 36 Talas previously, with no issues - crappy fork but no problems with the axle.

was there a bad batch? did zokes do a recall? from what i've read in these forums moving the manufacturing to taiwan has created some serious quality assurance issues.

by the way, i also need a new TST Micro adjuster knob ('lil gold one) because it simply fell off sometime during my first ride. the local distributors have shown no interest what-so-ever in replacing it or even sourcing a new one for me to buy.

cheers,
daniel


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## wycombephil (Feb 16, 2007)

*SL Doppio Cartridge setup*

Hi there

I am after a little more detail about how the doppio cartridge works. At the moment I have got mine set up with the rules given elsewhere in MTBR forums (i.e. NEG = 3 x POS, PAR = 0-5PSI) but . My questions are:

1 What does the negative air do? I thought it was basically a spring pushing against the main positive air spring but if that is the case why don't we just use lower pressure in the positive side and scrap the need for the negative. I guess part of the answer lies in the different chamber sizes for positive and negative air and the fact that the pressure in the negative chamber will drop much faster than the pressure in the positive side ramps up.

2 How does the negative air travel adjust work? Again, is this just two air springs pushing against each other or is there more to it that that? Why is it limited to 20mm travel adjust?

3 Even with PAR = 0 PSI I never get full travel (more like 120mm). I know the legs have the right amount of oil in there (40cc) because I put it there myself. Any ideas?

Thanks

Phil


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## roku (Sep 24, 2007)

Hello, Marzocchi Tech Department,

I have a 2009 Roco WC on a brand new bike here. All fasteners are torqued properly and I'm hearing and feeling a very annoying knock coming from what has to be the shock every time the piston quickly changes from rebounding to compressing. If cycled as fast as possible it sounds similar to a loose headset, or badly worn eyelet bushings--neither of which are the case here. I tried my 2008 Roco WC on the frame and it made the noise also, but was about 75% quieter, and generally acceptable.
-
I read somewhere about a similar problem with an older TST model, and it was pointed out that it may be the pistion guide ring moving, and that hopefully the issue would be addressed in the 2009 model year. Do you have any insight on this matter you could lend me, please? Particularly wether or not damage will be done if I continue to ride the shock as is.

Thanks.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

m0ngy said:


> hi,
> 
> the thru-axle on my 55 ETA's is slightly too small in circumference. we're talking a bees d!ck here, but it's enough that the bearings in my hope bulb hub shift around. this translates to a few mils of lateral movement at the tire, which is very annoying!
> 
> ...


Hello, 
You should check the o-ring on the edge of the axle nearest to the lever. Make sure this is greased up and you should be able to get the axle to preload the hub sufficiantly and eliminate the play. Normally this fixes the problem. We have had no QC issues with this area other than the o-ring drying out or missing all together. This is critical to making the wheel/axle/ fork interface solid.

As far as you TST micro knob, where do you live? PM me your shipping info and I'll see what I can do to send you one or have the local distributor call you directly.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

wycombephil said:


> Hi there
> 
> I am after a little more detail about how the doppio cartridge works. At the moment I have got mine set up with the rules given elsewhere in MTBR forums (i.e. NEG = 3 x POS, PAR = 0-5PSI) but . My questions are:
> 
> 1 What does the negative air do? I thought it was basically a spring pushing against the main positive air spring but if that is the case why don't we just use lower pressure in the positive side and scrap the need for the negative. I guess part of the answer lies in the different chamber sizes for positive and negative air and the fact that the pressure in the negative chamber will drop much faster than the pressure in the positive side ramps up.


Negative air assists in initial movement. Without negative air the fork will not be supple off the top of the stroke. Since there is pressure at the beginning of the stroke it needs help to get it moving. The more negative air the more supple the fork will be initially.



> 2 How does the negative air travel adjust work? Again, is this just two air springs pushing against each other or is there more to it that that? Why is it limited to 20mm travel adjust?


If you increase the negative air, due to it being smaller in volume, to a higher pressure than recommended the fork will actually shorten. The limitation is that you would have to put so much pressure in the fork to make it shorter travel that your pump wouldn't be able to go that high to give you a good spring rate.



> 3 Even with PAR = 0 PSI I never get full travel (more like 120mm). I know the legs have the right amount of oil in there (40cc) because I put it there myself. Any ideas?


How much do you wiegh and what kind of air pressures are you running? At the higher pressures (bigger rider weight) the ending pressures ramp up a lot...maybe that's it. I'm not sure on that one. 
I hope this helps.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

roku said:


> Hello, Marzocchi Tech Department,
> 
> I have a 2009 Roco WC on a brand new bike here. All fasteners are torqued properly and I'm hearing and feeling a very annoying knock coming from what has to be the shock every time the piston quickly changes from rebounding to compressing. If cycled as fast as possible it sounds similar to a loose headset, or badly worn eyelet bushings--neither of which are the case here. I tried my 2008 Roco WC on the frame and it made the noise also, but was about 75% quieter, and generally acceptable.
> -
> ...


There are a few things that could cause this feeling;
1.) the glide ring could be shifting on the main piston causing the feeling, MY09 should have a tighter glide ring.

2.)The bleed might not be perfect and the air in the oil is cavitating.

3.) check the reservior pressure. It needs to have at least 170psi. If it's less than that the oil will cavitate on compression and extension.

Without seeing it I can't pin point it but those are the things I would look at. Let me know if that helps or you want us to inspect it for you. 
Cheers!
MTD


----------



## mywso1 (Dec 21, 2008)

Hi Marzocchi Tech,
I'm about to buy a 55 ATA2 08 model which has just arrived at my lbs and now i have a second thought about it from the bad reviews I read on various site especially this one. It came with the rest of the 09 model and my lbs mention it has the new QR system compare to the older 08 model. 

Need you input on this matter.

Thanks.


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

*2008 XC600 TST2 : air or coil ?*

Hi, Mr.MTD.

I just got 2008 XC600 TST2 and I took a question that is its spring air or coil ?
Marz's website appears it has "Air Spring" and "Air Preload" and there is a decal printed "AIRPL" beside the top of its left leg. 
BUT according to 2008 Marz's use manual, its left leg has "positive air" :eekster:

If its spring is COIL, I will pomp it up 0-15psi for its "PRELOAD" Air Pressure. 
If it has AIR spring, I will pomp it up 30-40psi for its "POSITIVE" Air Pressure.

How can I set the air pressure on its left leg ?
And How are these oil levels of both leg ?

I couldn't find out neither tech manual nor scheme for 2008 XC600 TST2 on any website.

Help please, Mr.MTD and everyone :???:


----------



## Clutchman83 (Apr 16, 2006)

Hey MTD, thank you. It isn't said enough here, and wanted to remind you guys we appreciate your support. I haven't been the biggest Marzocchi fan in the past but we here on this forum really appreciate your help and advice. Happy holidays and thanks for your continued attention! :thumbsup:


----------



## special k (Mar 15, 2005)

TheDon said:


> Thanks Special K.
> 
> I really need a new fork, travel adjust would be a great way to get the most out of my bike. So it will be great to see how well the big M has sorted the problems of the 2008 ATA


An update. Marz turnaround time to fix my 55 ATA was 2-3 working days. MTD let me know it was being shipped back and that they had replaced my ATA cartridge with the 09 cartridge and had replaced my lowers. Apparently the new lowers addressed the stiction issue as it feels great now. I've done a few drops this week and the fork feels good, ATA chamber is functional, PAR and negative chambers are ok.

So, got the fork done under warranty, back to me in about 10 days. Best of all I didn't have to go through a LBS and know whats been done.

:thumbsup: to Marz for this one.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mywso1 said:


> Hi Marzocchi Tech,
> I'm about to buy a 55 ATA2 08 model which has just arrived at my lbs and now i have a second thought about it from the bad reviews I read on various site especially this one. It came with the rest of the 09 model and my lbs mention it has the new QR system compare to the older 08 model.
> 
> Need you input on this matter.
> ...


If there's a problem with our product we will fix it. As far as the 09 refinements with the axle it is basically the same system with a different safety catch on it (aka lawyer tabs). Other than that the axle system is the same.

If you do end up getting the 08 model and having trouble let me know. You'll hardly miss a day of riding .

Happy Holidays!
MTD


----------



## hovdeboj (Nov 4, 2005)

*Bumpin my request XC 700*

Hi MTD,

Looking for some help and I think I got missed in the shuffle, from my post above

Marz Tech - Help with XC 700 retro (repost from other thread)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm trying to sort out my fork and am thoroughly frustrated and confused. I've already searched the site and haven't had much luck and the manual is confusing, so bear with the longwinded description/request that follows but I want to give as much background as possible.

I have an aftermarket 2007 XC 700 with 100 mm travel, TST2, ETA. It's installed on a Ti hard tail weighing around 25 pounds. I weight between 190 and 200 pounds depending on gear. My riding is XC and trails mostly single track no drops over 18" no jumping or hucking. bought in winter of 07 and used for one season in 08

I have the preload set as per the manual to the max recommended pressure of 1bar/15psi. The sag is ok, might be a little too much, I get full travel. I have the TST2 air set at 2bar/30psi as per the manual. Lockout, ETA and Rebound all seem to work fine looses a little air over time but no oil leak.

My problem is the fork bottoms out but not consistently, sometimes when coming off a small drop (down a curb) and sometimes when preloading before hopping an obstacle like a log or rock. It also tends to dive or compress through turns, especially when descending.

I've checked and rechecked the air pressure which is fine according to the manual. I also checked with the local shop about stiffer springs which apparently are not available for that fork.

The Marz website lists oil volumes of 55ml in right leg and 160 ml in the left leg for my weight. Can someone tell me what the stock oil volumes are and if I need to add oil?

Would using heavier oil (>7.5 wt) improve compression dampening?

The manual says the TST2 system uses a serviceable sealed cartridge but later states the cartridge should be replaced every 50 hours. Can the cartridge be serviced or must it be replaced.

Would increasing the air preload help? The manual gives a pretty narrow range of 0 to 1 bar regardless of rider weight but does not say if this is the maximum or just a recommended range.

Are service instruction or shop manuals available I have rebuilt forks before and usually do all my own maintenance.

Unless I'm overlooking something, which is entirely possible, I'm thinking I may have to switch to another fork which would be a shame as I quite like this one and couldn't live without the ETA.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

hovdeboj said:


> Hi MTD,
> 
> Looking for some help and I think I got missed in the shuffle, from my post above
> 
> ...


Well, you got it all almost perfect. Here's the only thing you can change, actually two things; You can increase the air preload up to 45psi. So increase the pressure to around 30psi.

Another thing you can do and or check is the oil hieght on the ETA side. With the spring out and the fork and the cartridge fully compressed you can adjust the oil height. 45mm is the maximum hieght. I bet your fork is roughly 55mm from the top judging on how I see production assemblies.



> The manual says the TST2 system uses a serviceable sealed cartridge but later states the cartridge should be replaced every 50 hours. Can the cartridge be serviced or must it be replaced.


It has to be serivced every 50-100 hours but you can go a lot longer than that...like the whole season. We see it all the time.



> Are service instruction or shop manuals available I have rebuilt forks before and usually do all my own maintenance.


I wish there was a service manual to do it yourself but there isn't....so here I am



> Unless I'm overlooking something, which is entirely possible, I'm thinking I may have to switch to another fork which would be a shame as I quite like this one and couldn't live without the ETA.
> 
> Thanks in advance


That's a great fork for XC riding! Enjoy. 
I hope this helps you out. Sorry for overlooking your question.

Happy Holidays!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jean_luc said:


> Hi, Mr.MTD.
> 
> I just got 2008 XC600 TST2 and I took a question that is its spring air or coil ?
> Marz's website appears it has "Air Spring" and "Air Preload" and there is a decal printed "AIRPL" beside the top of its left leg.
> ...


Your fork has a coil with air preload so 0-15psi is correct but you can put more air if needed. I like 25psi myself I wiegh 190lbs, ride agressive and don't use the TST for a lock out on the trail only on paved roads.

Oil height is 45mm from the top fully compresed spring removed. On the TST side it's only 30cc's.

Happy Holidays


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Your fork has a coil with air preload so 0-15psi is correct but you can put more air if needed. I like 25psi myself I wiegh 190lbs, ride agressive and don't use the TST for a lock out on the trail only on paved roads.
> 
> Oil height is 45mm from the top fully compresed spring removed. On the TST side it's only 30cc's.
> 
> Happy Holidays


Wow ! That has a coil ! !
I hope coil fork fits for agressive xc riding as you said.

And some more Question.
Does very low preload such as 0-5psi leads to any trouble?
I weigh about 150lbs w/gears.
Plus,
Is its internal similer to 2008 55TST2 ?

Thank you Mr.MTD and Cheers :thumbsup:


----------



## hovdeboj (Nov 4, 2005)

Thanks very much, good to know about the pre-load, I thought 15 psi seemed a little low so that should do it.

no worries about missing the post, these strings get tangled.

best of the season to you as well.

Thanks again.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jean_luc said:


> Wow ! That has a coil ! !
> I hope coil fork fits for agressive xc riding as you said.
> 
> And some more Question.
> ...


0-5psi is fine for the fork, no problem.

Happy trails


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> 0-5psi is fine for the fork, no problem.
> 
> Happy trails


THX, MTD.
I'll try any setting as your suggestion tommorow


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay,think I am finally in the right place.!
Still working up the confidence to pull down my 66 bomber ata forks,they are losing air and oil at an alarming rate,mainly from around the ata valve so theres one cartridge plus the compression knob has been snapped off the other leg(thanks to aussie service centre),another cartridge?Any tips?


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Clutchman83 said:


> Hey MTD, thank you. It isn't said enough here, and wanted to remind you guys we appreciate your support. I haven't been the biggest Marzocchi fan in the past but we here on this forum really appreciate your help and advice. Happy holidays and thanks for your continued attention! :thumbsup:


What he said....


----------



## madmagrider (Jan 30, 2008)

*2007 XC 600 Oil Refill help*

Hi,

My 2007 XC 600 fork (100 mm, not the SL version) developed an oil leak on the top of the left leg a few months ago. I tightened the top cap using a shimano cassette lockring tool, but before I could do this I lost a lot of oil and want to refill it.

Can you provide me with instructions on refilling the left leg? Can I just remove the left cap to refill it, or do I have to do something else?

Thanks


----------



## iheartbicycles (Mar 14, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings,
> Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need.
> 
> Our phone number for customer service is (800) 227-5579. Our local number is (661)257-6630.
> ...


 Hey dude. Do I need an RA# to send you stuff? The Marz office is closed due to the hollidays - but I would like to get my roco send out to you asap as it's in need of a rebuild. Brand new and it's got air in the oil.

Please advise.

Thanks!


----------



## Raisedfist (Oct 23, 2008)

Hey, MTD!

I got a blank new 66 RCV OEM mounted on a Kona Stinky 08 which I have purchased few weeks ago. The problem is, that the 66 fork is just to stiff for my weight and I am not able to set up a DH/FR SAG (ca.30% ~ 6cm/2.3inch). The rear shock (Roco Coil R) adjustment (soft - without any spring tension) is okay - I can get the desired SAG on the rear, but while standing on the pedals the fork dives only for 2-3cm/0.8 - 1inch - without any air in both air preload chambers.

How can I adjust the desired SAG? I found a soft (red) spring kit on CRC for the 66, but I don't know if my weight will match the weight range for those springs - no spring weight tables on the internet. My weight is 65kg. For now I didn't change anything in the inner stuff of the work - the springs and the oil viscosity are stock values.

I hope you can help me somehow, 'cause sometimes I feel weird riding a FR bike like a chopper - compressed rear and quite uncompressed fork and I got this feeling, that something isn't right. Sometimes on fast, small bumps when the fork is fast decompressing I can hear a metallic sound, like KLANK! like the stanchions are reaching it's end without even affecting the rebound valve, 'cause of they are diving so low.

Hope you can help me!

Best regards and I am looking forward to your reply!


----------



## Sampo69 (Jun 10, 2006)

Hello, MTD.

Just did some servicing on my ride and noticed some side-to-side wobble with front wheel.Tightened 20mm QR to the max but wobble stays the same. Blue washer is still in the axel.
Front hub is Hope Pro 2 and fork is 07 AM SL 1. Both bought in Jan 2007.

What can i do to make the wobble go away?? Or is it time to get new fork+hub??


----------



## Kiwiitus (Apr 4, 2006)

*Dirt Jumper 2 stuck at full travel*

My sons 07 dirt jumper 2 forks are stuck at full travel. I've let all the air out of the right leg and even with my body weight I cant compress the fork more than 5 mm. Normal travel is 100mm.

I suspect the rebound cartridge in the Left leg is the problem, any fix?

Cheers
Tony


----------



## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

*07 Z1 RC2 - Air adapter broke off in small air port on top of stantion*

MTD - After adding air via the port on top of the stantion with the small pump adapter that came with the fork, I went to unscrew it from the top of the stantion and the adapter sheared off in my hand. The remaining little nub of the adapter is still screwed in place in the air port. The fork is now huffing air, the air chamber is wide open due to the tiny end of the adapter stem still screwed in there. I was following the directions on how to do this when it happened. 
I see no way to remove the adapter remains, there is just no space to get needlenose pliers or anything else in there.
I have only had this fork for 7 weeks. I've got a dozen rides on it, it's still getting tuned in. I have not ridden the bike since it happened 2 days ago, as I'm afraid something (dust, dirt, water, etc) will get down into the air chamber since it is open now. 
Please advise as to the propper way to solve this problem.
Thank you.


----------



## WaveDude (Jan 14, 2004)

The adapter has a tiny hole in it. Take a very sharp, pointy, scratch awl and file the sides square so you end up with a sharp, pointy, square-edge taper. Then poke that into the hole and use it like a screw-driver to unscrew it. Basically you're making a very tiny screw extractor like this. I'd say go buy one but I've never seen one small enuf to fit what you need it to.


----------



## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

Hey Tom-

I'd like your opinion on the 2008 55 TST2 vs. 2009 55 ATA TST2. I like that I can covert the TST2 to shimmed dampner set-up. Has the 2009 TST2 system changed in anyway prevent the conversion?

Has the ATA system been re-worked at all when compared to 2007? I'd hate to buy a brand new fork and then have to remove the PAR system.

Thanks!


----------



## nuked (May 10, 2008)

*55ata2*

Hi guys,My 55ATA2 has gone from the nominal 160mm travel to only 90mm travel,even with all the air bled from the valve! Also whenever I check the air pressure after every 10 hours of riding I lose probably up to an 1/8 to1/4 teaspoon of oil when the valve cracks open even though I leave the bike upside down overnight.Can that be normal, surly there is supposed to be a correct quantity of oil in the fork?


----------



## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

nuked said:


> Hi guys,My 55ATA2 has gone from the nominal 160mm travel to only 90mm travel,even with all the air bled from the valve! Also whenever I check the air pressure after every 10 hours of riding I lose probably up to an 1/8 to1/4 teaspoon of oil when the valve cracks open even though I leave the bike upside down overnight.Can that be normal, surly there is supposed to be a correct quantity of oil in the fork?


MTD might correct me but try opening the ATA2 system. Take off the knob and use a cassette lock ring tool. Air is probably trapped inside the leg (wrong chamber) which could limit the travel. If air escapes then you should get full travel.

There is oil inside the ATA system to lubricate the seals. A bit escaping when you check the pressure is normal.


----------



## nuked (May 10, 2008)

*Thanks for the info*

Sounds a plausable solution but the fact the air got into where it wasnt supposed to be means there must be a cause ...faulty seal maybe???


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

*more info will help...*



nuked said:


> Hi guys,My 55ATA2 has gone from the nominal 160mm travel to only 90mm travel,even with all the air bled from the valve! Also whenever I check the air pressure after every 10 hours of riding I lose probably up to an 1/8 to1/4 teaspoon of oil when the valve cracks open even though I leave the bike upside down overnight.Can that be normal, surly there is supposed to be a correct quantity of oil in the fork?


Hi Nuked,
Will the fork only compress 90mm, or is it stuck down at 90mm? the cause is very different for the 2. Cheers, Steve


----------



## tjneutral (Nov 22, 2008)

Hi everybody ,

I have a roco TST R 8,75x2,75 and i can't fit on my bighit 2008. The tank touches the suspension link of the frame.
Does anybody else has the same problem??

Thanks.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Stevo the Devo said:


> Hi Nuked,
> Will the fork only compress 90mm, or is it stuck down at 90mm? the cause is very different for the 2. Cheers, Steve


Hello, It sounds like your fork is shrunk down. If it ever shrinks in travel, with the travel adjuster being factored out, it's the main air seal. The only way to get the fork to reextend completely is to actually take the ATA cartridge out and replace the main piston o-ring.

Let me know if you need any assistance from me. I will do what I can to get you taken care of ASAP.

Sorry for the troubles. 
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tjneutral said:


> Hi everybody ,
> 
> I have a roco TST R 8,75x2,75 and i can't fit on my bighit 2008. The tank touches the suspension link of the frame.
> Does anybody else has the same problem??
> ...


I haven't seen it up close but I know we have some fitment issues on a few Specialized bikes. The "tank" as you refered to it as is the same for all our shocks. 
MTD


----------



## WaRpAtH (Jul 7, 2006)

MTD, have you seen any service issues crop up with the 09 888's?


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Nagaredama said:


> Hey Tom-
> 
> I'd like your opinion on the 2008 55 TST2 vs. 2009 55 ATA TST2. I like that I can covert the TST2 to shimmed dampner set-up. Has the 2009 TST2 system changed in anyway prevent the conversion?
> 
> ...


The 55 doesn't have the PAR piston anymore, only the 66 and 888 have that feature. It's now called ATA2 . It seems to be holding up better too from what I am seeing and hearing so far.

As far as the TST2, it's the same unit with an improved endcap to eliminate any lubrication oil from entering the damper and limiting the travel You can still do the shim stack mod as well :thumbsup: Good stuff!

I hope this helps. Have a great day.
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

02Slayer said:


> MTD - After adding air via the port on top of the stantion with the small pump adapter that came with the fork, I went to unscrew it from the top of the stantion and the adapter sheared off in my hand. The remaining little nub of the adapter is still screwed in place in the air port. The fork is now huffing air, the air chamber is wide open due to the tiny end of the adapter stem still screwed in there. I was following the directions on how to do this when it happened.
> I see no way to remove the adapter remains, there is just no space to get needlenose pliers or anything else in there.
> I have only had this fork for 7 weeks. I've got a dozen rides on it, it's still getting tuned in. I have not ridden the bike since it happened 2 days ago, as I'm afraid something (dust, dirt, water, etc) will get down into the air chamber since it is open now.
> Please advise as to the propper way to solve this problem.
> Thank you.


Doh, that's a bummer. I haven't ever had one break off in a fork but maybe you could take a micro flathead screw driver and spin it out, or the tip of a screw and jam it in it and back it out. It shouldn't be too hard to remove. I would also worry about oil shooting out the small hole in the part of the adapter. That's could be a bummer.

Good luck! 
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Sampo69 said:


> Hello, MTD.
> 
> Just did some servicing on my ride and noticed some side-to-side wobble with front wheel.Tightened 20mm QR to the max but wobble stays the same. Blue washer is still in the axel.
> Front hub is Hope Pro 2 and fork is 07 AM SL 1. Both bought in Jan 2007.
> ...


We actually use an o-ring in place of the blue ring now. Only thing is I am guessing because it's not in front of me to physically see it but it sounds like you have an early one. Can you do me a favor and let me know if yours has a cam lever or a clicking lever. The clicking lever is the ony one we have now. If you are in the states let me know, maybe even post a photo so I can clear this up.

Sorry I missed your post, this thread is gigantic and I get lost in here sometimes

MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Raisedfist said:


> Hey, MTD!
> 
> I got a blank new 66 RCV OEM mounted on a Kona Stinky 08 which I have purchased few weeks ago. The problem is, that the 66 fork is just to stiff for my weight and I am not able to set up a DH/FR SAG (ca.30% ~ 6cm/2.3inch). The rear shock (Roco Coil R) adjustment (soft - without any spring tension) is okay - I can get the desired SAG on the rear, but while standing on the pedals the fork dives only for 2-3cm/0.8 - 1inch - without any air in both air preload chambers.
> 
> ...


I am pictureing you with your fist in the air, nice user name. Sorry for the delay in reply.

You would be happy with the soft spring.

You can also in the inturm remove the spring all together and just run air. Try about 30-40psi.

You could also unscrew the top cap on the spring side, then depress the air valve on the other side, reextend the fork and install the spring top cap. What this will do is create a vaccum and drop the spring rate slightly, maybe even putting you at the right sag point.

We have a tendency to spec stiffer springs on FR bikes for obvious reasons.

I hope this helps.


----------



## Dupka (Apr 14, 2004)

*66 ATA more progressive*

Hey folks,

I've got a 2007 66 SL1 ATA and tryin to figure out how to make the fork more progressive. Ride mostly DH so would like it to remain butter smooth in the first 50% for the small stuff, but then ramp up quite a bit in the last half for the big hits. It already feels a bit progressive but not enough - on big hits it just blows through most of the travel and only gets slowed down in the last 25% or so by the PAR. Turnin up the compression dial seems to affect the whole stroke, which is great for huck rides, but then it won't stay supple on the small bumps. Any suggestions? Can you set it up with just the dials & a pump or is this where custom tuning comes into play? Also curious: feels like the compression knob controls both low & high speed - is that right?

Right now have it set up as:
Positive air: 5-10 pumps (my pump doesn't read that low)
ATA: 60psi
PAR: 80psi
Lightest compression setting
I weigh about 180lbs with armor
Thx!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

iheartbicycles said:


> Hey dude. Do I need an RA# to send you stuff? The Marz office is closed due to the hollidays - but I would like to get my roco send out to you asap as it's in need of a rebuild. Brand new and it's got air in the oil.
> 
> Please advise.
> 
> Thanks!


Most likely you already called us and got it but you can PM me and I can get you the RA#. Or just call 661-257-6630.

I was on vacation too:thumbsup:

MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

madmagrider said:


> Hi,
> 
> My 2007 XC 600 fork (100 mm, not the SL version) developed an oil leak on the top of the left leg a few months ago. I tightened the top cap using a shimano cassette lockring tool, but before I could do this I lost a lot of oil and want to refill it.
> 
> ...


You got it, just unscrew the top cap, compress the fork fully and set the oil hieght at 45-55mm from the top. 55 will give you a lighter end stroke and 45 will give you more bottom-out resistance.

Cheers,
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Kiwiitus said:


> My sons 07 dirt jumper 2 forks are stuck at full travel. I've let all the air out of the right leg and even with my body weight I cant compress the fork more than 5 mm. Normal travel is 100mm.
> 
> I suspect the rebound cartridge in the Left leg is the problem, any fix?
> 
> ...


Yeah, I wouldn't ride it until it's inspected. Stuck at full travel is not something that happens very often. Please give us a call or PM me and I can set you up with an RA# so we can inspect it. Sorry for the troubles.

MTD USA


----------



## Sampo69 (Jun 10, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We actually use an o-ring in place of the blue ring now. Only thing is I am guessing because it's not in front of me to physically see it but it sounds like you have an early one. Can you do me a favor and let me know if yours has a cam lever or a clicking lever. The clicking lever is the ony one we have now. If you are in the states let me know, maybe even post a photo so I can clear this up.
> 
> Sorry I missed your post, this thread is gigantic and I get lost in here sometimes
> 
> MTD USA












Here's quick snap of the qr lever.


----------



## mrjustin007 (Jul 22, 2008)

*Swap 1 1/8" steer to 1"*

I heard that you guys would swap a 1 1/8 steer to a 1", for use on older MTBs. Is this true? How does it work? What would I have to do? Thanks


----------



## dhracer403 (Jan 6, 2009)

MTD - The Roco has pretty fast rebound towards the top of it's travel. It doesn't feel like an air bubble. Is there any way to make the rebound faster through the middle of the stroke and really slow above the preload point with the valving? It also isn't using its travel on really high speed chop. Is there anything that can be done to remedy that?

Thanks!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Dupka said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> I've got a 2007 66 SL1 ATA and tryin to figure out how to make the fork more progressive. Ride mostly DH so would like it to remain butter smooth in the first 50% for the small stuff, but then ramp up quite a bit in the last half for the big hits. It already feels a bit progressive but not enough - on big hits it just blows through most of the travel and only gets slowed down in the last 25% or so by the PAR. Turnin up the compression dial seems to affect the whole stroke, which is great for huck rides, but then it won't stay supple on the small bumps. Any suggestions? Can you set it up with just the dials & a pump or is this where custom tuning comes into play? Also curious: feels like the compression knob controls both low & high speed - is that right?
> 
> ...


Well it sounds like you are close. You can try just a bit more PAR pressure that will effect the last 40%. You can also add oil to the RC3 side to add progression but I don't think you will feel that at mid stroke. You will feel it more in the last 20% of the stroke. 
Also to note is that I don't think you really want to run any air in the Positive air side. That feature is mainly with non ATA forks but if it feels good do it. It will effect the suppleness at the beginning stroke if you use that. 
I wiegh 190 with gear and run 60psi top and 120psi bottom, zero Positive air with max oil hieght (60mm from the top). It ramps up nicely but still has a supple feel at the beginning.

I hope this helps your tuning needs,
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mrjustin007 said:


> I heard that you guys would swap a 1 1/8 steer to a 1", for use on older MTBs. Is this true? How does it work? What would I have to do? Thanks


We used to but we no longer have the parts or are we going to reorder them. It's the end of an era. We only did it on forks 80mm or shorter.

MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dhracer403 said:


> MTD - The Roco has pretty fast rebound towards the top of it's travel. It doesn't feel like an air bubble. Is there any way to make the rebound faster through the middle of the stroke and really slow above the preload point with the valving? It also isn't using its travel on really high speed chop. Is there anything that can be done to remedy that?
> 
> Thanks!


That's the beauty of ROCO. If you know how to bleed it your can tune all day long to get a lighter rebound and compression setting. The only thing you really have to watch when changing shims stacks is the total thickness of the stack has to remain the same. This is done by using 11mm shims to compensate for the shims you will be removing.

So if you want a faster light rebound setting there are two pretty handy shim stacks you can try. One is just removing one of the 18mm shims on the rebound side. You would need to add a 11mm X 0.15mm(thickness) to adjust the stack up. Another lighter setting is to do the above but put the 11mm under the 18's so that it sits against the piston face. This will lighten the initial shim preload and decrease the rebound damping even more.

As far as the shock not using all it's travel on compression (it sounds like you have an Iron Horse Sunday or a LL frame, or a light spring rate less than 400#) I would remove one of each shim on the compression side. There are two of each big shim, so when you take it apart it would look like this;
22 x 0.15t x 2pcs
21 x 0.15t x 2pcs
20 x 0.15t x 2pcs
19 x 0.15t x 2pcs
17 x 0.15t x 1pc
15 x 0.15t x 1pc

Just change it to this;
22 x 0.15t x 1pcs
21 x 0.15t x 1pcs
20 x 0.15t x 1pcs
19 x 0.15t x 1pcs
17 x 0.15t x 1pc
15 x 0.15t x 1pc
add 11 x 0.15t x 4pcs (or equavilant)

That is a nice light setting. You can go crazy with this stack but this has been found to be pretty nice among the masses.

www.windwave.co.uk 
I think they have rebleeding instructions there.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


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## dhracer403 (Jan 6, 2009)

MTD Tom - Thanks, that'll work good for the compression. I actually wanted a bit heavier damping on the rebound so it's slower when it approaches top out and maybe a bit faster in the middle (like molasses slow above your preload point). Since the compression is so easy to adjust I'm hoping the rebound is similar. It doesn't seem to have any effect until I'm only a couple clicks from full closed too, so I was hoping to get some better range out of it too.

How about the shimstacks in the resy? What would the same compression modification to that shimstack do?

I'm running a 400# spring, 3" shock, 8.5" travel frame. It uses the travel on drops and bigger compressions, but doesn't really use it on fast edges.

Thanks a bunch!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dhracer403 said:


> MTD Tom - Thanks, that'll work good for the compression. I actually wanted a bit heavier damping on the rebound so it's slower when it approaches top out and maybe a bit faster in the middle (like molasses slow above your preload point). Since the compression is so easy to adjust I'm hoping the rebound is similar.
> 
> How about the shimstacks in the resy? What would the same compression modification to that shimstack do?


Just add an 18 x 0.15 to the rebound stack and don't add an 11. This will close the free bleed slightly and make the shims do more. You might even be able to just try removing an 11 x 0.15 only. It'll make the shims work harder which will effect low speed rebound which you are looking for. You could also add a second 18mm shim to the main piston bolt. That would cause low speed restriction and maybe get you the effect you want.

As far as the resy compression, the high speed compression shim stack, do the same as the main piston, just put on 1 of each shim instead of 2 of each. You don't need to add any 11's to this stack.


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## dhracer403 (Jan 6, 2009)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Just add an 18 x 0.15 to the rebound stack and don't add an 11. This will close the free bleed slightly and make the shims do more. You might even be able to just try removing an 11 x 0.15 only. It'll make the shims work harder which will effect low speed rebound which you are looking for. You could also add a second 18mm shim to the main piston bolt. That would cause low speed restriction and maybe get you the effect you want.
> 
> As far as the resy compression, the high speed compression shim stack, do the same as the main piston, just put on 1 of each shim instead of 2 of each. You don't need to add any 11's to this stack.


I didn't know you could add more shims to the bolt head. It looked like there was only room for one under that circlip but I could be wrong? I thought it looked a lot smaller than 18mm too.

Removing from the total stack height would just move the needle closer to the bolt port earlier right?

What would be the difference if I were to leave the piston compression stack as is and lighten up the resy compression stack?


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## Dupka (Apr 14, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Well it sounds like you are close. You can try just a bit more PAR pressure that will effect the last 40%. You can also add oil to the RC3 side to add progression but I don't think you will feel that at mid stroke. You will feel it more in the last 20% of the stroke.
> Also to note is that I don't think you really want to run any air in the Positive air side. That feature is mainly with non ATA forks but if it feels good do it. It will effect the suppleness at the beginning stroke if you use that.
> I wiegh 190 with gear and run 60psi top and 120psi bottom, zero Positive air with max oil hieght (60mm from the top). It ramps up nicely but still has a supple feel at the beginning.
> 
> ...


Just tried your air settings and yeah, works good - thanks. It starts ramping up in the last 40-50%. Someone told me to add a few pumps to positive air to help with brake dive, not sure if it really works cause haven't had enough time to test it out. I can feel it stiffen up the whole stroke, and figured I'd give up some beginning stroke suppleness for more anti-dive. With your settings it pretty much stops at the same point that it ramps up (last 40-50%), I can live with that. Seems like a compromise no matter what.
Ok, now I've got a new problem - everytime I unscrew the pump from the ATA valve it loses most of it's pressure (almost down to zero), and doesn't seem to matter how fast I unscrew the pump.


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## madmagrider (Jan 30, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You got it, just unscrew the top cap, compress the fork fully and set the oil hieght at 45-55mm from the top. 55 will give you a lighter end stroke and 45 will give you more bottom-out resistance.
> 
> Cheers,
> MTD USA


Well, I got the left cap on the ETA side to unscrew, but something is definitely holding it on the fork shaft internally. If I compress the fork, the cap will rise off of the threads, but it will not separate from the shaft. What am I missing? Is the air valve connected to anything internally?


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

Oil shooting out? I didn't realize the air chamber had oil in it that could shoot out.
Any chance I could get a new adapter?


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## Raisedfist (Oct 23, 2008)

Yo, thanks a lot MTD!!!

I've already ordered the soft spring for my 66. I guess it will be the best choice. The tendency to assemble FR forks with stiffer springs is just obvious for me, so I didn't even thought about it to say something bad 'bout your forks.

The user name comes frome my favourite hard core band - Raised Fist, but I'm also often raising my fist in the air - to hail the winners and the brave ones, or to frighten my enemies.

Cheers, mate!


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## disturbedracing (Sep 16, 2008)

*2006 drop off4 not getting full travel*

Ive recently bought some 2006 drop off 4's.

They have 150mm of travel and bolt through lowers.

The problem im getting is they dont seem to be getting full travel.

They only seem to be getting 130mm max at the moment.

i have checked the oil levels and put fresh oil in. currently have 155cc in both legs.
Im running 10 wt oil if that makes any difference.

Is there anything i can do. is the ol level the correct height.

any help would be great.

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

disturbedracing said:


> Ive recently bought some 2006 drop off 4's.
> 
> They have 150mm of travel and bolt through lowers.
> 
> ...


Check it via oil level....springs out fully compressed. Max hieght is 45mm. So I would run slightly lower and then if you bang bottom-out add a few cc's until it doesn't do it. 55mm is a nice set-up. 
...or your spring rate is too heavy.

Cheers,
MTD USA


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## pisgahboy (Jan 29, 2006)

I have an '06 66 SL. My question is can I put new 55 lowers on it so I can have a QR 20mm axle? The reason for this is that I have a bike I keep in AZ since I vacation there often. Having that QR on the fork would make it much easier to get the bike in and out of a rental car.

Thanks for your time.

pb


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## Manji (Oct 29, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> There are a few things that could cause this feeling;
> 1.) the glide ring could be shifting on the main piston causing the feeling, MY09 should have a tighter glide ring.
> 
> 2.)The bleed might not be perfect and the air in the oil is cavitating.
> ...


Hi,

Which is the "guide ring"? Is it the one that holds the spring in the end at the rebound knob?

I reciently got a Roco WC 2009 and has the same problem as above.
190psi in the reservoir and the bleed is correct.

I catch the sound from the spring. If I put my hand on it and compress the bike/shock, 
I can feel the "snap/knock". The spring rate is 4 turns, and everythins seems to be tight and ok.

// -M-


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

pisgahboy said:


> I have an '06 66 SL. My question is can I put new 55 lowers on it so I can have a QR 20mm axle? The reason for this is that I have a bike I keep in AZ since I vacation there often. Having that QR on the fork would make it much easier to get the bike in and out of a rental car.
> 
> Thanks for your time.
> 
> pb


I am sorry but it won't work and there isn't an option to make that fork a QR thru axle. 
MTD


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## Manji (Oct 29, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> There are a few things that could cause this feeling;
> 1.) the glide ring could be shifting on the main piston causing the feeling, MY09 should have a tighter glide ring.
> 
> 2.)The bleed might not be perfect and the air in the oil is cavitating.
> ...


Hi,

Which is the "guide ring"? Is it the one that holds the spring in the end at the rebound knob?

I reciently got a Roco WC 2009 and has the same problem as above.
190psi in the reservoir and the bleed is correct.

I catch the sound from the spring. If I put my hand on it and compress the bike/shock, 
I can feel the "snap/knock". The spring rate is 4 turns, and everythins seems to be tight and ok.

Very annoying when you hit the trails and the shock makes that sound...

// -M-


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

*Roco Air TST R*

I bought the Roco Air TST R 7.5 X 2.0 on friday and installed it today... I filled it with air the recommended 88 psi when I was at work this morning. I came back to try and set the sag and it was way Way WAY past 15mm. It will not hold air at all. I know that you say to set it at 150 but I didn't read on here I just read the manual that comes with it. I haven't stayed next to it to see how long it takes to lose air but I know that it goes to almost nothing within a few minutes.

I am not even mad at all.... It's just way to sexy to rant and talk bad about it. Do I have a defective one or what's going on?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I had a manitou come with a defective schraeder valve one time. I just went down to the local truck supply store (we have one locally) and was able to buy a new valve insert for a quarter . Been perfect ever since.

If you have a valve core remover, you might make sure the one in there is in snug or take it out and give it a drop of oil and make sure it works smoothly.


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## BruceW (Jul 9, 2008)

*Leaking PAR, Doppio, travel restricted*

My 2005 Marathon SL (NOS) has been used for less than 50 miles, and now it seems perhaps the doppio cartridge is leaking? I set the air pressures, ride a mile or even just press the shocks several times. Then the shock has trouble getting full travel (maybe 60%), and I find that the PAR air pressure is much higher than I set it. Could the negative air be leaking into the PAR, through faulty seal?

Could you tell me what is happening, and what I can do to fix it?


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## Bent Wheel (Oct 6, 2007)

I have a 2008 Marz 55R, set at 140mm travel. For some reason I'm only getting about 3.5 inches of travel. Could this be an oil level issue or something more serious? Please help. Thanx.


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## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

I bought the Roco Air TST R 7.5 X 2.0 on friday and installed it today... I filled it with air the recommended 88 psi when I was at work this morning. I came back to try and set the sag and it was way Way WAY past 15mm. It will not hold air at all. I know that you say to set it at 150 but I didn't read on here I just read the manual that comes with it. I haven't stayed next to it to see how long it takes to lose air but I know that it goes to almost nothing within a few minutes. 

I am not even mad at all.... It's just way to sexy to rant and talk bad about it. Do I have a defective one or what's going on?

Update: Took it back to Jenson today and they are sending it into Marzocchi tomorrow.


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## DmitriX (Jun 23, 2008)

Does any one know where I can get 2009 55 ATA knob, I feel pretty silly, I got the new fork installed today was just flipping things around, adjusting things etc. Took off the ATA knob, put it somewhere and now I can't find it, look through the entire garage, nothing, even have been following my dog (a rotty) just in case he swallowed it, to see if he pups it out or something....???


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Manji said:


> Hi,
> 
> Which is the "guide ring"? Is it the one that holds the spring in the end at the rebound knob?
> 
> ...


Hello,
The glide ring is on the main damping piston inside the shock. It needs to be taken apart to get to it. It's not something you would feel on the trail but it would be noticable when just sitting stationary. Your problem sounds like something else but I can't quite understand what it is by your discription. It almost sounds like it's coming from your linkage or a pivot or something like that.

MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

BruceW said:


> My 2005 Marathon SL (NOS) has been used for less than 50 miles, and now it seems perhaps the doppio cartridge is leaking? I set the air pressures, ride a mile or even just press the shocks several times. Then the shock has trouble getting full travel (maybe 60%), and I find that the PAR air pressure is much higher than I set it. Could the negative air be leaking into the PAR, through faulty seal?
> 
> Could you tell me what is happening, and what I can do to fix it?


It could be the negative leaking into the positive. This cartridge is going to be insanely hard to disassemble with a clamp block to hold the body. You would then need to heat the end cap to get it apart. I would really recommend sending it to a service center to perform this service. 
If you are in the USA you can call us and send it to us directly for this service. If you have a proof of purchase it could be covered under warranty. If not then it most likely would cost you for this operation.
Sorry to hear it,
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

skip canfield said:


> I have a 2008 Marz 55R, set at 140mm travel. For some reason I'm only getting about 3.5 inches of travel. Could this be an oil level issue or something more serious? Please help. Thanx.


It could be something as easy as too much oil in the spring side (non-rebound side of the fork. You can check it by undoing both top caps and compressing the fork completely. Remove the spring and check the oil hieght. The maximum hieght should be 55mm, I would suggest 65mm from the top and go from there. If it's lower than that it could have something to do with the rebound cartridge. Just try to compress it when you are checking the oil. If it doesn't compress fully then give us a call.
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

DmitriX said:


> Does any one know where I can get 2009 55 ATA knob, I feel pretty silly, I got the new fork installed today was just flipping things around, adjusting things etc. Took off the ATA knob, put it somewhere and now I can't find it, look through the entire garage, nothing, even have been following my dog (a rotty) just in case he swallowed it, to see if he pups it out or something....???


Call Marzocchi USA 661-257-6630

Tell them I sent you:thumbsup:

MTD USA


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## Bent Wheel (Oct 6, 2007)

*Looks............*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> It could be something as easy as too much oil in the spring side (non-rebound side of the fork. You can check it by undoing both top caps and compressing the fork completely. Remove the spring and check the oil hieght. The maximum hieght should be 55mm, I would suggest 65mm from the top and go from there. If it's lower than that it could have something to do with the rebound cartridge. Just try to compress it when you are checking the oil. If it doesn't compress fully then give us a call.
> MTD USA


like I'll be sending my fork to you guys. I guess the rebound cart. is suspect. Whats the turn around for a fix like this. Will the oil levels get checked while they have it there? Thanx for your help.:thumbsup:


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## mountainbiker24 (Feb 5, 2007)

Are lowers still available for a 2006 66rc2x? How long does Marzocchi keep spare parts?


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## BruceW (Jul 9, 2008)

It is not the positive air chamber that is rising but the PAR chamber. Does that change anything? 

Also, right now it seems that the leakage happens when I have the negative boosted to 150-217psi in order to lower the travel to 100mm. If set at 73psi for 120mm of travel, the leakage is not happening (at least not quickly). If this is a seal or o-ring problem, then it will only get worse over time. Can you point out to me which seal or o-ring is the problem? (See attached exploded view.)

While I bought the fork in the USA, I am now living in the UK where they will not honor the USA-purchase warranty. Perhaps I could remove the Doppio cartridge and ship it to the USA facility separately (overseas shipping costs are insanely expensive)?


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## DJT21 (Jan 17, 2009)

I have a problem with my 2005 Z1 freeride 2's

I cant undo the left foot nut (I do have an appropriate socket before anyone asks)

I twist it and it just keeps twisting the pumping rod inside the fork

Any ideas how to solve this?

Ive tried it with e spring and some air pressure in the fork but it still wont undo

Thanks


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## bill33 (Dec 28, 2006)

*2008 55 tst2- no lock out*

MTD, my lock out just stopped working, only about 25 hours on the fork. Instead of locking out, it compresses (very stiffly). Otherwise the fork seems to be working fine. I changed the oils and double checked all levels. Now it compresses even easier when the TST is in lock position? Could there be a seal in the cartridge that's blown? 
Please advise,
Thanks,
Bill J.


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## drsmonkey (Mar 21, 2008)

*I did it! I read the whole thread.*

I'm letting a busted up knee rest today, so I just read this entire thread. I found exactly what I was looking for, plus more. I was a little worried about the '08 66rcv that I just got on a new bike, but now I am confident that if I have any problems in the future Tom is here to help.

Thanks,
DRS


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## Raisedfist (Oct 23, 2008)

*Convert 666 into 888?*

Yo MTD,

a few days ago I was wondering if it is possible to convert somehow my 66RCV 08 fork into a 888RCV. I haven't made any precise measurements of the 66 and 888 legs, but I got this feeling, that they may have the same size. So if the major parameters of both legs are the same (despite the axle mounting system - they are different, but the 66 QR system is ok for me), maybe there is a chance to replace the stanchions, spring (maybe shims too, if they are installed, but I guess there are some) with a 888 stanchions/crowns kit and a 888 spring and turn my 66 into a custom 888? I think that the valves in the RCV models are the same, so they shouldn't be a problem.

Everything what I wrote down above is just a concept. I haven't even the slightest idea if this may work, but I think this may be a interesting experiment if some of the 66 and 888 parts will fit together.

The reason why I was thinking about such a modification is that I would like to have a 888RCV fork instead of my 66RCV, but I don't have so much cash to buy myself a new fork, even when I sell my 66 (despite I hate selling things to people). I guess that this would be a cool option converting a single crown fork like the 66 into a 888 double crown fork with less money than buying a new one. Of course it depends on the cost of buying the stanchions/crowns kit and springs, but I think it could be more reasonable price than the cost of a new 888.

I realize that the Marzocchi guarantee will be void for such a conversion, but I am still interested in it, because I feel familiar with tuning and modifying bike parts.

Later MTD, cheers!


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

*riding a 2 spring fork w/ 1?*

not sure of the year or exact model of Bomber, but can you take the spring out on the air/spring side to get the desired compression feel w/o doing damage? a friend of mine tried it & we put about 10 mi. in @ our best known trails & for the first time since he's had it, about 4 yrs., it got the travel he was looking for. it was only getting about 3 in. out of six.clearly, it seems the springs are for a far heavier rider. the one he took out was yellow, the one left in on spring only side is silver. w/ the spring removed , he upped the air pressure to about 40 psi w/ normal being around 15. whadaya think? i do believe he realizes getting the proper springs w/ correct rates is the no brainer way to go, but being super cheap gets in the way of being senseable.


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

Help! '08 55 ATA fork bought in 8/08 just stopped getting full travel! I have a 165mm fork with a mere 2" of travel!Checked all settings on top of L fork tube and to no avail, even in full DS setting it will only compress like 68mm. As it is still under warranty, should I just call up Jenson where I bought it and get a return auth number? Also, some play in fork front to back - sliders???


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## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

*RC3 cart for 55*

Marzocchi Tech,
Do you know when the RC3 cart will be available? I have a 55 ETA and would like to get this cart for it. I have checked with Marz since Oct. only to be told to check with them the next month. Would you have a real eta for this cart? Also is there a second spring kit that I can put into this fork for the ETA side like you could with the 06 Z1light?
Thanks,
Mctigre


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## 3riders_doucat (Jan 18, 2009)

Hi, Mazocchi tech!!

I've got the Rocco TST R too, thanks for the info about the sag and rebound. What about the air pressure valve? How much pressure should I put in the shock? (180lbs, 8,5x2,5) DH
Also, there's a "switch" at the top of the suspension, it's made for what??? when I put it to the right position, the shock become harder, and in all they other position, the shock seems to be the same feeling
Thanks a lo again!


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## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Hi Tom, 

I live in Venezuela and as I understand there are no authorized Marzocchi suspension centers (I've been told there is one in Merida but I don't know how can I check that out), I would take the fork to one of these but since we dont have one I think I will have to repair the fork on my own. I wrote to Marzocchi through the webpage and they gave me the option of shipping the fork to them but that is a big problem for us here in Venezuela since the government restricts the ammount of dollars (or any other currency) we can use per year, and that kinda shipping will take a consireable ammount of that limited number. I was hoping you could help me out with technical information or guides of how to disassembly, repair and reassembly my fork. Maybe some exploded view of the fork's assembly as I've already seen for the 55 in this or other thread in this forum.

The bike is a 2009 IronHorse Yakuza Kumicho which is OE with a Marzocchi 888 RV (2008 888 I supose).
I was riding on our local track and I was feeling a little (very small, but I'm usually very picky) "tuck" sound inside the fork, I thought it was a loose headseat so I re tightened the headsead and started riding again. After hitting a normal 6 foot drop and landing OK with no problems at all, the fork just got stuck. It is not fully locked, you can compress it if pushing hard, but its pretty damn hard (not like infinite hard but a lot harder than it used to be, and it´s sticky too) and harsh too. When moving it feels like if there were a lot of friction inside the fork between moving parts, feels very rough. It's not a very good feeling at all and the sound I first noticed before the fork got like this is not definetely there. If I go and try to compress the fork, it will go really smooth for about 5 mm or maybe a little more, then you would hear the "tuck"sound, and then it gets hard for the rest of the travel, harsh, rough, very not cool.

I'm good at mechanical stuff, I'm a mechanical engineer and have built Honda motors, transmission and differentials for years, so I think I'm pretty capable of fixing the fork, the only thing I need is a manual to follow so I can do it right, and that is what I'm hoping you guys can give me, along with some guidance of what the problem could be after telling you the symptoms.
I don't plan on replacing my fork and I have had GREAT experiences riding with Marzocchi's forks, with not even one problem, on a 2007 Kona Stinky I previously owned (which was OE equipped with a dual crown Bomber Drop off Triple that I loved and NEVER EVER gave me trouble). What I'm trying to say is that I would like to keep my 888 as I really liked it so far and was getting to know it and enjoy it more every ride, and so does my best riding friend with his IronHorse Sunday Expert (which is also OE with this fork), I would just like the help from you I need to get my fork fixed and be a happy customer.
I think the fork is under warranty since I bought the bike on September 2008, but as I said before, shipping overseas may be very difficult for me and I don't know about Marzocchi's representatives here in the country.
Please reply ASAP with as much info as you can give me about the fork and how to solve this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance


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## whiteredbullit (Nov 17, 2008)

*Join the club*

This sounds like the problem I've had (and many others on this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=480800 ). I believe it's a problem with the o-ring failing on the piston in the main spring. I think your best bet would be to get it fixed under warranty if it's convenient.

When you do, make sure you make some noise about fixing the loose bushings too. I sent mine in under warranty and they replaced the cartridges (one of which has failed again) but they didn't touch the bushings at all, so it still feels loose. No explanation, no nothing.

Good luck!


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## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Well couldn't be the same problem since my fork is a lot more simple than any ATA, mine is a RV you can just adjust rebound speed and has no preload whatsoever (no mechanical nor air), coil spring, it's a pretty simple fork that's what's driving me crazy about this problem.
Mine is not stuck in middle stroke but fully extended (or so it seems haven't measured it up but eye comparing to my buddie's Sunday which has the same fork it looks like that).


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mountainbiker24 said:


> Are lowers still available for a 2006 66rc2x? How long does Marzocchi keep spare parts?


Normally 3 years. We have 06 66 lowers in stock.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

skip canfield said:


> like I'll be sending my fork to you guys. I guess the rebound cart. is suspect. Whats the turn around for a fix like this. Will the oil levels get checked while they have it there? Thanx for your help.:thumbsup:


We are on about a 1 week in house turn around. so give it two weeks with all the shipping and such. 
We will check everything when it's here.

MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

BruceW said:


> It is not the positive air chamber that is rising but the PAR chamber. Does that change anything?
> 
> Also, right now it seems that the leakage happens when I have the negative boosted to 150-217psi in order to lower the travel to 100mm. If set at 73psi for 120mm of travel, the leakage is not happening (at least not quickly). If this is a seal or o-ring problem, then it will only get worse over time. Can you point out to me which seal or o-ring is the problem? (See attached exploded view.)
> 
> While I bought the fork in the USA, I am now living in the UK where they will not honor the USA-purchase warranty. Perhaps I could remove the Doppio cartridge and ship it to the USA facility separately (overseas shipping costs are insanely expensive)?


#51 is the o-ring you might need. It sounds like the negative pressure is leaking through to the positive side, effectively raising your PAR pressure.

As far as shipping it back to us in the USA. We can only cover shipping back you you in the USA, we can not pay for shipping all the way back to you in the UK. Just FYI.

Cheers,
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

DJT21 said:


> I have a problem with my 2005 Z1 freeride 2's
> 
> I cant undo the left foot nut (I do have an appropriate socket before anyone asks)
> 
> ...


Sounds like you need an impact wrench. That always works for us. Just don't have the pressure up too high when putting it back on or you will snap the cartridge.

Cheers,
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

bill33 said:


> MTD, my lock out just stopped working, only about 25 hours on the fork. Instead of locking out, it compresses (very stiffly). Otherwise the fork seems to be working fine. I changed the oils and double checked all levels. Now it compresses even easier when the TST is in lock position? Could there be a seal in the cartridge that's blown?
> Please advise,
> Thanks,
> Bill J.


That sounds funky. It would be best if we saw that cartridge here to understand what's going on. I sent you a PM.

Cheers,
Tom


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

nhodge said:


> not sure of the year or exact model of Bomber, but can you take the spring out on the air/spring side to get the desired compression feel w/o doing damage? a friend of mine tried it & we put about 10 mi. in @ our best known trails & for the first time since he's had it, about 4 yrs., it got the travel he was looking for. it was only getting about 3 in. out of six.clearly, it seems the springs are for a far heavier rider. the one he took out was yellow, the one left in on spring only side is silver. w/ the spring removed , he upped the air pressure to about 40 psi w/ normal being around 15. whadaya think? i do believe he realizes getting the proper springs w/ correct rates is the no brainer way to go, but being super cheap gets in the way of being senseable.


It's prefectly fine to use air instead of a coil spring on all our forks that have an air valve. Cheap is OK....and lighter! :thumbsup:

MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tls36 said:


> Help! '08 55 ATA fork bought in 8/08 just stopped getting full travel! I have a 165mm fork with a mere 2" of travel!Checked all settings on top of L fork tube and to no avail, even in full DS setting it will only compress like 68mm. As it is still under warranty, should I just call up Jenson where I bought it and get a return auth number? Also, some play in fork front to back - sliders???


You can call us directly if you are in the USA. Just call us first and get an RA#. 661-257-6630. Most likely this is due to the ATA cartridge not the air spring like mentioned. We can get you dialed!
Sorry for the problems,
MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

MCtigre said:


> Marzocchi Tech,
> Do you know when the RC3 cart will be available? I have a 55 ETA and would like to get this cart for it. I have checked with Marz since Oct. only to be told to check with them the next month. Would you have a real eta for this cart? Also is there a second spring kit that I can put into this fork for the ETA side like you could with the 06 Z1light?
> Thanks,
> Mctigre


Yeah, I was under the assumption we would have had them by now. We have 2009 55 RC3 forks here but no cartridges by themselves. I'm pretty chapped about this too. 
I hope within the month:skep: but you've heard that before.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

juanpkumicho said:


> Hi Tom,
> 
> I live in Venezuela and as I understand there are no authorized Marzocchi suspension centers (I've been told there is one in Merida but I don't know how can I check that out), I would take the fork to one of these but since we dont have one I think I will have to repair the fork on my own. I wrote to Marzocchi through the webpage and they gave me the option of shipping the fork to them but that is a big problem for us here in Venezuela since the government restricts the ammount of dollars (or any other currency) we can use per year, and that kinda shipping will take a consireable ammount of that limited number. I was hoping you could help me out with technical information or guides of how to disassembly, repair and reassembly my fork. Maybe some exploded view of the fork's assembly as I've already seen for the 55 in this or other thread in this forum.
> 
> ...


Hello,
I replied via PM. If anything I would check your compression valve on the pumping rod. Other than that I would need to see it.

Cheers,
MTD USA


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## mtnryder56 (Sep 13, 2008)

Hi MTD,

I have a 05 66rc that I love but that I bent the steerer tube on. I am going to send it in, and they mentioned that if the crown is bent they might have to replace that too. Which is fine. Would the new flat style crown fit on my fork? I ask because I would like to bring the height of the fork down some. Or, would it be possible to add the eta feature to the fork while it is in for servicing, so as to be able to climb fire roads with it compressed?

Thanks


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## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech,
Thanks for the reply. Do you know if there will be a second spring kit to put into the ETA side of my 08 Fifty Five. Also, do you have the White or Grey lowers for this fork.
Thanks,
Mctigre


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## prowlus (Nov 16, 2007)

Hello MTD I'm from the UK who just bought a 2009 ata fork and I;d like to know the following things about it :

(1) Is the fork a simple repackage of the 08 ata2 since it shares a 90% commonality with the previous model?


(2) Can the fork be converted to take a tst micro cartridge and controls or if possible a ETA travel system ? I ask because my atas actually had a defective TST2 cartirdge in them and right now they are being sent back to the distributor for a checkover


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## Chapped (o) Hole (Nov 13, 2007)

I had a similar situation with my 2008 ATA. Mucked up TST and loss of travel due to faulty o rings in the ATA cart. Since the fork is being torn down I'm having the ATA cart replaced with an ETA cart. Don't know why it wouldn't work on the 09 model.


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## tls36 (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks Tech support, shipped out to you in Valencia Monday AM with RA number posted.


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## supervokes (Apr 21, 2007)

Hey Marz tech ....

I just bought a 2009 888 RC3 WC fork and cannot find a reference ANYWHERE on *what spring rate correlates to rider weight.*

Particularly the stock K=6 or K=7.7 springs.

Is there any guide for body weight?? What range of rider weight is the stock spring designed for??

I am going to be 185 lbs (no armor) and am stuck trying to figure out what spring rate I should be using. Oil heights ... no problem

** Also wondering if you could comment on using 10wt oil over the stock 7.5.

Thanks:thumbsup:


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

I just returned from my trusted local bike shop. I defferred this broken adapter problem to them, as they have demonstrated time and again that they are experts at tricky bike operations. They gave me the bad news - the remaining adapter can't be removed. They think a new top cap would solve the problem, and then I'll need to get another adapter.

The fork is new, I was simply following directions to tune my fork, and the adapter broke. I rarely complain about products, this is actually my 3rd Z1, and I have loved Marz. forks for close to a decade. 

I am hoping that MTD can help me out here. I've been a loyal and satisfied customer, and now I need a hand.

Erik


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## traffic002 (Dec 16, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Dept,

I apologize if this was asked before, but answers wouldn't come up on any searches.

I recently bought a MX Pro Lo 80mm fork. I'm trying to find out what the proper air pressure is for preload.

The only information I could find was online on the Marz website and it said 42psi for 165# rider.

I tried this and it seems to be waaay too stiff. Even backing off to 38psi was too stiff.

Are there proper recommendations for a starting point for this fork?

Thank you in advance.

--Paul


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## rogue (Apr 5, 2004)

*888 Wc 2009*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hello,
> We have already adjusted the fitting of the bushings and everything, so far, has been a lot better on the fitment tolerence between the stanchions and the bushings. All 2009 forks have been updated. As far as your freinds 08 66, that uses basically the same casting so it would have been effected too.
> 
> I hope this helps you,
> MTD


Hi MTD

I bought a 888 WC 2009 a few months back. Its still running great, although there is some slop in the lowers or bushings. I can still ride ok, its just that its not as precise as it should be (after all its the *World Cup Model*). I would like to get this checked out as I've never had this problem on other forks (2004 888, 2006 66, 2009 Boxxer). I live in Hong Kong and I bought this fork online from UK. I was told by the retailler that Marzocchi is a worldwide company and it has a 3 year warranty (which the sticker on the lowers state). Can you please advise how to get it checked / fixed in Asia... I dont really want to have to ship the whole fork to USA or Europe? I would even consider jumping on a plane to Taiwan to visit Marzocchi if it was an option (only an hour flight from here).
Thanks for your time and appreciate this forum

Cheers
Rogue


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## pbayne (Mar 20, 2008)

*07 Corsa World Cup*

Up until now this has been a backup fork. It is now my main fork and will see about @25 hours of riding per month. According to the included manual this is the recommended interval for servicing the seals and TST cartridge. I have several questions regarding this maintenance.

1. Is there any way to get technical drawings of this fork so that I can do the work myself? (Like the older forks manuals; I have 2 '02 Bombers that I have taken apart a least 3 times a year since '02)

2. Are specialized tools needed that can be fabricated (I work on diesel engines and have made my own tools) or purchased from Marz?

3. As with question 1, can I gets a parts list to make ordering replacement parts easier.

I just can't see sending the fork in every couple of months. Is that what sponsored racers do? Surely team mechanics can pull these things apart, although the guys around here aren't Marz sponsored so I don't know.

Thanks for any info you can provide. I've always liked Marz over the other available forks. I especially have liked the way they can be user serviced. I hope that is the case with the Corsa.

Paul Bayne


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## supervokes (Apr 21, 2007)

rogue said:


> Hi MTD
> 
> I bought a 888 WC 2009 a few months back. Its still running great, although there is *some slop in the lowers or bushings*. I can still ride ok, its just that its not as precise as it should be (after all its the *World Cup Model*).
> Cheers
> Rogue


I THOUGHT this was fixed for 2009????????

Marz .... Please tell us it is, because I just sold an 08 888 and bought the same fork above to *avoid *this VERY PROBLEM that plagued the 08 forks!!!


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## genci (Sep 28, 2004)

*Other cartridge instead of the TST*

Hi Marz Tech

A brief question. After replacing for 3 times my TST (06 Marathon SL) I wonder if there is any other cartridge (more reliable) that I can use on the fork.(lockout needed) 
If not, any suggestion to make it last more than 5 months.

Thanks


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## mountainbiker24 (Feb 5, 2007)

I really need an air preload adaptor for a 2006 66rc2x. They have one on the Marzocchi website, but they don't have a link to purchase it. Jenson has a silver one for Xfly/Marathon and Chain Reaction has a black one for '07 forks. Is the black one different than the silver one? Which one do I need for my 66? Thank you in advance


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## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

About my problem (read previous page)...

I separated the crowns from the stanchions to do some tests to each side of the fork separately and I imediately noticed that the problem is in the right side of the fork, which has the rebound adjust knob (Marzocchi 888 RV only rebound adjustable), so the compression side is perfect and feels just like new.
Any ideas?


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mountainbiker24 said:


> I really need an air preload adaptor for a 2006 66rc2x. They have one on the Marzocchi website, but they don't have a link to purchase it. Jenson has a silver one for Xfly/Marathon and Chain Reaction has a black one for '07 forks. Is the black one different than the silver one? Which one do I need for my 66? Thank you in advance


Either adapter will work with your fork. The black one is just slightly smaller in diameter than the silver one but the part that seals to the fork is the same size.

You can call us directly and order the tool. 661-257-6630 ask for sales.

Cheers,
MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

mtnryder56 said:


> Hi MTD,
> 
> I have a 05 66rc that I love but that I bent the steerer tube on. I am going to send it in, and they mentioned that if the crown is bent they might have to replace that too. Which is fine. Would the new flat style crown fit on my fork? I ask because I would like to bring the height of the fork down some. Or, would it be possible to add the eta feature to the fork while it is in for servicing, so as to be able to climb fire roads with it compressed?
> 
> Thanks


The flatter crown will not work sorry. It is possible to add the ETA feature if we have them in stock. The tech will have to check that out and let you know.

MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

supervokes said:


> Hey Marz tech ....
> 
> I just bought a 2009 888 RC3 WC fork and cannot find a reference ANYWHERE on *what spring rate correlates to rider weight.*
> 
> ...


Have you tryed to set the sag? Is it close to a 25-35% sag? To give you an idea I am 190 geared up, I am a racer type, not a freeride hucker, and I use the soft 5.4kg spring. I have used the 6k spring too and it was ok but I perfer the 5.4kg spring and using a little of the compression damping to compensate. My fork is amazing with the 5.4kg spring.

Most likely you would be safe with the 6kg spring. FYI, our stock spring 6kg is best suitted for a 180-200# rider....but as I wrote above I also think it has a lot to do with the kind of rider you are and how you like your fork set-up.

Start with your sag measurement (standing up) first and go from there.

I hope this helps!

MTD


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

traffic002 said:


> Marzocchi Tech Dept,
> 
> I apologize if this was asked before, but answers wouldn't come up on any searches.
> 
> ...


Set it by sag, 15-20% compression when standing up and weight on your handlebars. That is good for that fork. If you set your sag then the air pressure will be whatever it is once you set your sag...I don't have an exact number.


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## traffic002 (Dec 16, 2008)

traffic002 said:


> Marzocchi Tech Dept,
> 
> I apologize if this was asked before, but answers wouldn't come up on any searches.
> 
> ...


So I experimented a bit more. So roughly 20psi yielded what appeared to be "in the range" of proper preload. I fee like I want it stiffer, but I also wonder about if the compression damping is working properly, then I probably wouldn't get full travel if I went any stiffer.

Again, my fork didn't come with any manuals and I can't find any information in my searches.


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## traffic002 (Dec 16, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Set it by sag, 15-20% compression when standing up and weight on your handlebars. That is good for that fork. If you set your sag then the air pressure will be whatever it is once you set your sag...I don't have an exact number.


Thanks for the reply. I will set the sag to with my full weight on the bars.

So that works out to about 1/2" more or less. Will give it a go.


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## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

*Hey Tom did you get my PM?*

Hey Tom just wondering if you got my PM about a week ago had some questions for the TST micro service.


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## whiteredbullit (Nov 17, 2008)

*Warranty repair - broken TST Micro*

Hey MTD,

After a very noisy ride, I have discovered that the shaft on my TST micro cartridge (2008 55 ATA) has sheared down near the rebound adjuster. I assume this will be covered under warranty?

Can I get an RA# direct from Marzocchi and ship the forks straight from Australia or do I need to send them through Cambriabike? Cambria seemed to delay the whole process on the last warranty repair and weren't great communicators.

The ATA has also stuck down a few times so needs to be looked at and I'd like the bushing tolerances checked - they seem loose to me.

Thanks

Ian


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

traffic002 said:


> So I experimented a bit more. So roughly 20psi yielded what appeared to be "in the range" of proper preload. I fee like I want it stiffer, but I also wonder about if the compression damping is working properly, then I probably wouldn't get full travel if I went any stiffer.
> 
> Again, my fork didn't come with any manuals and I can't find any information in my searches.


You could always make the spring rate more linear by lowering the oil hieght on the non-lock-out side and run a bit more air pressure....try lowing the oil hieght by 5 or 10mm's.

There's really no compression damping in the fork, just a lock-out feature.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

juanpkumicho said:


> About my problem (read previous page)...
> 
> I separated the crowns from the stanchions to do some tests to each side of the fork separately and I imediately noticed that the problem is in the right side of the fork, which has the rebound adjust knob (Marzocchi 888 RV only rebound adjustable), so the compression side is perfect and feels just like new.
> Any ideas?


Carefully pull up on the stanchion tube....does it seem like it will just come out of the bottom case? CAREFUL! It's full of oil and if you pull it all the way out you will be soaked in oil.

If it does feel like it is going to come out of the fork, then it's the c-clip in the bottom of the stanchion. 
To fix this you can flip the fork over and let it sit for 5-10 minutes and let the majority of the oil drain into the stanchion. 
Now you can remove the footnut on the bottom of the bottom case, 12mm socket (after removing the rebound knob).
Pull the stanchion from the bottom case. Only a small amount of oil should leak out, so be aware.
Now you should have everything in your hands. You will need c-clip pliers to reinstall the clip into the groove in the base of the stanchion...hopefully everything is still in good condition.

let me know what you find. Sorry for taking so long in replying. I will watch for your post.

MTD USA


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## drsmonkey (Mar 21, 2008)

*'07 All mountain 2 travel change*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> To change the travel you would need a new ETA cartridge. The way the fork is you can not change the travel by moviing parts around. Sorry.


I'm building a bike for a friend and have an AM2 sitting around that I would like to re-use. How much does the 140mm travel ETA cartridge cost, and are there any available?

Thanks,
DRS


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*TST Micro bleed per model years*



Jesse Hill said:


> Hey Tom just wondering if you got my PM about a week ago had some questions for the TST micro service.


Hi Jesse,
First things first, is your TST5 with the bladder on the outside of the cartridge, 2005 - 2007? Or is it internal, 2008, 2009??
If you can see the bladder than it's 2007 or earlier.

*If it's a 2005-2007 TST5* you need to pull the compression unit out completely and add a fat o-ring (24mm x 2.5 or 3mm thick) to go onto the externall bladder complete the bleed process. This o-ring has to be a snug fit on the bladder. 
So here goes, 
1. Start with the FAT o-ring up above the bladder.
2. Fill the cartridge with oil
3. Install the compression unit in the open position. Hand tighten and seal the cartridge.
Now, Compress the cartridge and slide the FAT o-ring down onto the bladder about mid way. This will trap and expand the bottom of the bladder. If it didn't the o-ring isn't snug enough.

Now undo the top compression unit again , extend the cartridge completely, and top off the cartridge with oil. 
Install the compression unit. Tighten to compression unit. 
Remove the FAT o-ring from the external bladder. 
You should hava small amout of inflation on the bladder once the o-ring is remove. Just squeeze the bladder. If it doesn't have a small ballow feel you didn't trap enough oil in the bladder and need to retry using a tighter o-ring.

*This is for 2008, 2009 TST5 *
I have been messing the the TST micro lately and found that it's best to pull the whole compression assembly out of the tst body,
Then add some oil to the body to top it off and then slowly, with the compression open, push it into the body with it extended, then ease off, then push a little more, then ease off, and repeat until you can thread it together. Since the bladder is an expansion bladder you really can't overfill it since when it is being compressed it will expand.

Cheers!
MTD USA


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## genci (Sep 28, 2004)

*Other cartridge for a 06 Marathon SL*

Hi Marz Tech

A brief question. After replacing for 3 times my TST (06 Marathon SL) I wonder if there is any other cartridge (more reliable) that I can use on the fork.(lockout needed)
If not, any suggestion to make it last more than 5 months.

Thanks


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

genci said:


> Hi Marz Tech
> 
> A brief question. After replacing for 3 times my TST (06 Marathon SL) I wonder if there is any other cartridge (more reliable) that I can use on the fork.(lockout needed)
> If not, any suggestion to make it last more than 5 months.
> ...


Who has replaced it? Have we done the work on it? That cartridge needs to be serviced every 4-5 months. If we do the work it normally goes for at least that long if not longer. If we do the work you also have a valid warranty on the parts we repaired for 6 months. After 3 times we can even look at offering you a new model. FYI, the 2007 or newer TST5 is a bit more reliable, same system but slightly different. 
If you look above this post you can see rebleed instructions for the TST5 cartridge. Basically you just need to change the oil every so often to keep it running smooth.

Other than that there is nothing else to put in your fork that will give you lock-out.


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## genci (Sep 28, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Who has replaced it? Have we done the work on it? That cartridge needs to be serviced every 4-5 months. If we do the work it normally goes for at least that long if not longer. If we do the work you also have a valid warranty on the parts we repaired for 6 months. After 3 times we can even look at offering you a new model. FYI, the 2007 or newer TST5 is a bit more reliable, same system but slightly different.
> If you look above this post you can see rebleed instructions for the TST5 cartridge. Basically you just need to change the oil every so often to keep it running smooth.
> 
> Other than that there is nothing else to put in your fork that will give you lock-out.


It never had time to get serviced. It always failed after 5 or 6 months.

As my fork is a 30 mm stanchions with 100/120 mm travel, could I use the new 2007-2008 cartridges?

Thanks


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## Midle Age Warrior (Nov 13, 2006)

*Oil high for a 888 rc2x 2007*

Hi Marzocchi support
Could you give the oil high for a 2007 888 rc2x

Thanks in advance


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

190cc/side is a sweet spot for the '06/'07 coil forks. I have no idea what that translates to for height.


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## dickiedoodles (Oct 7, 2008)

*'08 66 ata issue*

Hi Marzocchi support

Hope you can help. I've already checked out a few links in the thread regarding issues with the fork, but nothing quite relates to my issue. See what you think:
I can't set reasonable sag (25-30%) on the fork unless I really suck the air out of both ATA and PAR chambers. I'm running 10 psi ATA and 45 PAR to allow me to set sag, but obviously the fork feels really sloppy and tops out on return. The RC3 preload has 0% psi.
When I first got the bike/forks (sept '08) I set the chambers approx 60 psi ATA/ 90 psi PAR for my 165lb weight, and they ran great for about 3 months. If I return to these settings, I get about 15mm of sag and maximum 4" of travel. I can't guite figure what's affecting the travel...any ideas?
Thanks in advance
D


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## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Hey TOM

Well I've got good news, and after my problem people that have the similar problem will find out sooner than I did. Anyway,
I took the hole rebound side appart. On the top of the stanchion there is a C clip, over which rests an aluminum cylinder, over which seats a very thin spring that (I suppose that's its purpose) holds the cylinder against the clip so it is fixed and not all over the place. In the exploded view you sent me via emial (888 RCV) the spring is part number 46, the cylinder is 48 and the C clip 49. Well that spring (I can't get to imagine how) got all ****ed up and found its way into the rebound cartrige or rod, so was holding everything back. That explained the roughness of the movement when compressing or extending and the harder the fork was (when compressing, you where trying to break the coil). 
I took the spring out
So for now I took out the spring out and assembled the whole fork with 190 mm of oil height as you told me to and the fork feels again like new. I'm happy again hahaha.
I guess that not having that spring in there won't be a major problem (maybe the fork will make a "tuck" sound when extending, but won't perform bad in normal operation) but I wil try to find a similar spring or make one out of some wire I don't know.
Thanks again man, and if you could get me the exploded view for the 888 RV I would still love it since from now on I will service the fork myself. I would also like to confirm that 190 mm is a good oil height.


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## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Well I'm not sure about the part numbers, since the RCV is a bit different from what I saw in mine, but I think the spring is that 46 one.


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## Clintox50 (Feb 4, 2005)

Marzocchi,

I've got an '07 66 SL1 ATA that just started acting up. The only issue is that I can't get the travel out. With the ATA dial turned all the way out, where it should be extended out at 180mm, it's really only giving me extension out to about 120mm maybe the 140mm I can't tell, and I can screw it in shorter from there, which doesn't really do me any good. I've messed around with the air pressures to the best of my knowlege but can't seem to get the travel back out to 180mm. 

Please help. Thank you.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

genci said:


> It never had time to get serviced. It always failed after 5 or 6 months.
> 
> As my fork is a 30 mm stanchions with 100/120 mm travel, could I use the new 2007-2008 cartridges?
> 
> Thanks


Unfortunately the different model years are not compatible. It would be nice if they were but everything is different.


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*2007 888 RC2X oil hieght*



Midle Age Warrior said:


> Hi Marzocchi support
> Could you give the oil high for a 2007 888 rc2x
> 
> Thanks in advance


The maximum oil hieght is 180mm. This is with the spring removed and everything fully compressed.

190mm is a nice setting!


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

*888 RC2X CC measurement*



DHidiot said:


> 190cc/side is a sweet spot for the '06/'07 coil forks. I have no idea what that translates to for height.


Our tech here says that's low for a cc measurement but if you like it, run it. 
Here's our techs rule of thumb for cc measurement.

Heavy = 220cc's
Medimum - 210cc's
Soft = 200cc's


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dickiedoodles said:


> Hi Marzocchi support
> 
> Hope you can help. I've already checked out a few links in the thread regarding issues with the fork, but nothing quite relates to my issue. See what you think:
> I can't set reasonable sag (25-30%) on the fork unless I really suck the air out of both ATA and PAR chambers. I'm running 10 psi ATA and 45 PAR to allow me to set sag, but obviously the fork feels really sloppy and tops out on return. The RC3 preload has 0% psi.
> ...


Welp there's a few things to check, first unscrew the top cap on the ATA using a freewheel tool. Did any air ascape when you did this? IF so your stanchion was full of air from your ATA leaking air into the stanchion and requires different o-rings, totally warrantable.

Next, let all the air out of the PAR with the bike right side up. How much oil came out of the valve, a lot? none? If a lot came out, the oil from lubrication has gotten pulled into the air chambers and has the same fix as the first.

Do you have any air pressure in your RC3 side? This isn't needed with ATA.

Try those suggestions and let me know what you found.

MTD USA


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## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Clintox50 said:


> Marzocchi,
> 
> I've got an '07 66 SL1 ATA that just started acting up. The only issue is that I can't get the travel out. With the ATA dial turned all the way out, where it should be extended out at 180mm, it's really only giving me extension out to about 120mm maybe the 140mm I can't tell, and I can screw it in shorter from there, which doesn't really do me any good. I've messed around with the air pressures to the best of my knowlege but can't seem to get the travel back out to 180mm.
> 
> Please help. Thank you.


Your main seal in your ATA has started to leak and air has transferred to the negative air side of the cartridge and now isn't allowing the fork to re-extend. Have you ever service the fork? It sounds like you are due for a seal kit rebuild on your ATA cartridge. If you have never serviced the fork you might want to think about a full service.


----------



## Clintox50 (Feb 4, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Your main seal in your ATA has started to leak and air has transferred to the negative air side of the cartridge and now isn't allowing the fork to re-extend. Have you ever service the fork? It sounds like you are due for a seal kit rebuild on your ATA cartridge. If you have never serviced the fork you might want to think about a full service.


Thanks.

Yeah it was serviced last year at Sea Otter and a new ATA cartridge put in.


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

In the '07 ATA I would usually run right around 200cc. For the '06 and '07 RC2X forks I''ve consistently found 190cc on BOTH sides to be able to use all the travel effectively and not bottom harshly. Also the measuring cup I had been using was pretty ghetto, but it was consistently ghetto...got a better one now. I don't doubt that it might have been off by a few cc's.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

DHidiot said:


> In the '07 ATA I would usually run right around 200cc. For the '06 and '07 RC2X forks I''ve consistently found 190cc on BOTH sides to be able to use all the travel effectively and not bottom harshly. Also the measuring cup I had been using was pretty ghetto, but it was consistently ghetto...got a better one now. I don't doubt that it might have been off by a few cc's.


We sell graduated cylinders here. It's all good


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

I actually don't even try to measure that accurately anymore. I just do a baseline of 270-280ish in the new ones and add/subtract as necessary.

Suggestion: On the Roco, make the bleed port threads the same as an Avid bleed kit (M5) and try to work in a bleed port on the shaft cap. Behind the piston is where air is the most likely to work itself into and being able to purge that would be key. Thought about drilling/tapping the cap on mine today but it doesn't appear that there's room. Being able to do the push/pull method on the shock would be a silly fast way to get the air out of them and not use hardly any oil.


----------



## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The maximum oil hieght is 180mm. This is with the spring removed and everything fully compressed.
> 
> 190mm is a nice setting!


Why does the table in the windwave page says that for all 888 2007 oil height is 240 mm?

:skep:


----------



## dickiedoodles (Oct 7, 2008)

Yep, opened up the top and quite a bit of air fizzed out with some oil. As for the PAR, released the air and caught about half a teaspoon of oil...is that a lot?? But it's just as you expected. And yes, there was no air in the preload.

So is that a forks in the post job for me? Could you let me know what you'd recommend

Thanks


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

*2008 XC600tst2 stuckdown ?*

I was sure that my XC600tst2 has 120mm travel, but now the stanchion appeared above lowerleg is only 105mm  
There is no load, 5-15psi for air preload, DS position of tst2. When I reinflate more than 15psi or deflate, the stanchion length has no change. Also I think any position of tst2 have no relation.

Is this stuckdown? If so, how I can correct this?
I think tst2 cartridge has some trouble becouse Mr.MTD said that XC600tst2 has coil spring, not air spring like ata.

Any advice please, someone :???:


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jean_luc said:


> I was sure that my XC600tst2 has 120mm travel, but now the stanchion appeared above lowerleg is only 105mm
> There is no load, 5-15psi for air preload, DS position of tst2. When I reinflate more than 15psi or deflate, the stanchion length has no change. Also I think any position of tst2 have no relation.
> 
> Is this stuckdown? If so, how I can correct this?
> ...


TST2 will normally not get tuck down. If anything they will become limited on travel but at bottom out. 
Can you take a picture of your fork and post it so I can confirm it's not an ATA model. There are a few variations of this fork at the OEM level. This would make it all clear. That fork could have a long negative spring. If it does you might just need a little more air in the fork to get the travel, full extension....just an idea.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

juanpkumicho said:


> Why does the table in the windwave page says that for all 888 2007 oil height is 240 mm?
> 
> :skep:


I have no idea why they have that hieght posted. I would bottom that thing out on every big hit. That's super low.


----------



## Bent Wheel (Oct 6, 2007)

My 55R is now an open bath system due to the Marz. magic. I rode it a few times and it was great, nice & plush. Developed a nasty toppping out BANG. Shop says to check oil levels.Rebound side was low, so they added some. Rode it 1 time, could not get full travel. Checked it myself and the level was to high, drew some oil out, measured it, got it right on 65mm, set PL and now it is back to being very plush. Thanks for your measurement recommendations. Hopefully this is it.


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Hey there Tom,Got another question mate.I realize other people have had this issue but i'm getting the wheel wobble thing happenin(sl1 66 ata 07 20mm axle).I've tourqued the axle clamp bolts correctly and the end caps but the wobble feels like lateral axle play..running a ringle hub.cheers dude..


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> TST2 will normally not get tuck down. If anything they will become limited on travel but at bottom out.
> Can you take a picture of your fork and post it so I can confirm it's not an ATA model. There are a few variations of this fork at the OEM level. This would make it all clear. That fork could have a long negative spring. If it does you might just need a little more air in the fork to get the travel, full extension....just an idea.


Here are some photos.
This is one for aftermarket, not OEM.
I changed set angle of TST knob because it hits downtube a little at normal AM position.

Just now, I pumped up for AIR PL again. Then the fork is extension  
At 40psi, stanchion extend 110mm. 50psi extend 120mm finally.
But it become too firm for me so I think that cannot get full travel. I weigh only 150lbs with gears.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jean_luc said:


> Here are some photos.
> This is one for aftermarket, not OEM.
> I changed set angle of TST knob because it hits downtube a little at normal AM position.
> 
> ...


Ok, now I can help out! So if you want a lighter spring rate you can remove soe oil from the AIR PL side. You will ned to unscrew the top cap and take a little oil out, about 5-10cc's to start. This will make your spring rate more linear at the higher pressure. Give that a try.

I hope this helps,
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

benronpro said:


> Hey there Tom,Got another question mate.I realize other people have had this issue but i'm getting the wheel wobble thing happenin(sl1 66 ata 07 20mm axle).I've tourqued the axle clamp bolts correctly and the end caps but the wobble feels like lateral axle play..running a ringle hub.cheers dude..


Well, hhmmm, this is a regular thru axle with pinch bolts??? Did you tighten the axle endcaps tight enough? Tightening these pulls the drop-outs together and pinchs the hub so there should be anyway for it to move. 19.98mm is the axle diameter. Other than that I am at a lose...sorry.

MTD USA


----------



## genci (Sep 28, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Unfortunately the different model years are not compatible. It would be nice if they were but everything is different.


One more. The last ( I hope).

So, besides changing oil, is there any other thing I can do to have a TST cartridge longer than 6 months?

Thanks for your support


----------



## intosite (Jun 28, 2008)

Is it possible to reduce the travel of the 2008 xc600 tst2 from 140mm to 100mm?

cheers


----------



## PsyCro (Jun 8, 2007)

*Tech Support!: 2007 Z1*

Well heck, since this thread is still around i might as well make use of it!!

I just got a 2007 Z1 RC2 ETA from CRC and am wondering about some upgrades/mods. I read somewhere about a dual coil conversion.. will one of these kits work..
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=621
If not, what do i need and where can i get it. (preferably somewhere in europe!)

The other thing that interests me is upping the travel. Certain AM models have 160mm.. is it possible to mod my fork to get 160mm as well?

Cheers Tech Support!! :thumbsup:


----------



## dickiedoodles (Oct 7, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Welp there's a few things to check, first unscrew the top cap on the ATA using a freewheel tool. Did any air ascape when you did this? IF so your stanchion was full of air from your ATA leaking air into the stanchion and requires different o-rings, totally warrantable.
> 
> Next, let all the air out of the PAR with the bike right side up. How much oil came out of the valve, a lot? none? If a lot came out, the oil from lubrication has gotten pulled into the air chambers and has the same fix as the first.
> 
> ...


Yep, opened up the top and quite a bit of air fizzed out with some oil. As for the PAR, released the air and caught about half a teaspoon of oil...is that a lot?? But it's just as you expected. And yes, there was no air in the preload.

So is that a forks in the post job for me? Could you let me know what you'd recommend

Thanks


----------



## jean_luc (Mar 27, 2006)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Ok, now I can help out! So if you want a lighter spring rate you can remove soe oil from the AIR PL side. You will ned to unscrew the top cap and take a little oil out, about 5-10cc's to start. This will make your spring rate more linear at the higher pressure. Give that a try.
> 
> I hope this helps,
> MTD USA


THX, Mr.MTD
I'll try your suggestion next weedend, may be.


----------



## Mojo Man (Sep 1, 2007)

*Help with XC 500R Fork Set up*

Hi ,

Need some help setting up my wife's Marzocchi XC 500R fork that came on her new '07MKIII.

She weights about 110 lbs and I can't seam to get use of the full suspension with the proper amount sag. You know, either too much sag for not enough.

Being a novice she likes a plush ride. I played around with air presures but can't seam to get full travel with about 1-1 1/4" sag. The spring seams to be too stiff not allowing the air presure to compansate, not linear enough

Any suggestions? I'm not sure about oil levels or that stuff.

David


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

intosite said:


> Is it possible to reduce the travel of the 2008 xc600 tst2 from 140mm to 100mm?
> 
> cheers


Yes it is. It would require a fulll disassembly and adding a 40mm spacer to the pumping rod.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

PsyCro said:


> Well heck, since this thread is still around i might as well make use of it!!
> 
> I just got a 2007 Z1 RC2 ETA from CRC and am wondering about some upgrades/mods. I read somewhere about a dual coil conversion.. will one of these kits work..
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=621
> ...


Hello,
The spring kit you would want from the chain reaction site is a Z150 spring kit. It includes the ETA spring you already have. 
Other than that, you can not get more travel from that fork due to the ETA predicting the length (top-out) of the fork. 
I hope this helps. There's not a lot more you could do with that fork.

Happy Trails!
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mojo Man said:


> Hi ,
> 
> Need some help setting up my wife's Marzocchi XC 500R fork that came on her new '07MKIII.
> 
> ...


Hi David,
I think the only thing you could do is to lower the oil hieght on the AIR PL side of the fork. It might have a coil spring in that side too, in which case, you could remove the spring and just use AIR PL. 
That's about all you could do with that fork.

I hope this helps,
Happy Trails,
MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

dickiedoodles said:


> Yep, opened up the top and quite a bit of air fizzed out with some oil. As for the PAR, released the air and caught about half a teaspoon of oil...is that a lot?? But it's just as you expected. And yes, there was no air in the preload.
> 
> So is that a forks in the post job for me? Could you let me know what you'd recommend
> 
> Thanks


I think the best thing to do is give us a call and have us go through your fork. If you are located in the USA you can either contact me here with your info and I can give you an RA# to send it back...or you could just call us and do it that way. 661-257-6630

If you are located anywhere other than the US you will have to get in touch with our distributor for that country.


----------



## PsyCro (Jun 8, 2007)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Hello,
> The spring kit you would want from the chain reaction site is a Z150 spring kit. It includes the ETA spring you already have.
> Other than that, you can not get more travel from that fork due to the ETA predicting the length (top-out) of the fork.
> I hope this helps. There's not a lot more you could do with that fork.
> ...


Thanks for the info. Today i found a useful link..
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=3080274

It seems Marz. at one point had a kit for the Z1 RC2 which included a clip and washer. Am i gonna have to retrofit that somehow? It seems the Z150 spring kit doesnt have the clip and washer (didnt even need it i suppose), and without 'em, judging by the pics i might have problems.


----------



## juanpkumicho (Nov 14, 2008)

Hey Tom,

Maybe you can help me out with this: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=487703

Thanks in advance.


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Well, hhmmm, this is a regular thru axle with pinch bolts??? Did you tighten the axle endcaps tight enough? Tightening these pulls the drop-outs together and pinchs the hub so there should be anyway for it to move. 19.98mm is the axle diameter. Other than that I am at a lose...sorry.
> 
> MTD USA


thanks tom,it's got 4 pinch bolts everything is torqued correct so i'll just live with it i guess.:thumbsup:


----------



## KevinR (Nov 14, 2008)

Hi... Just picked up a bike that has an 05 Marathon XC. I am trying to get it all figured out, and have a couple of questions.

When I set the fork to lockout, it is close to locking out, but there is a small amount of travel still. Is this normal, or should it be completely locked?

I set the fork to the suggested factory psi, and it is REALLY springy even after I adjust the rebound. I am guessing I should just reduce the psi, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some other adjustment that may help.

Thanks.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

KevinR said:


> Hi... Just picked up a bike that has an 05 Marathon XC. I am trying to get it all figured out, and have a couple of questions.
> 
> When I set the fork to lockout, it is close to locking out, but there is a small amount of travel still. Is this normal, or should it be completely locked?
> 
> ...


It sounds like you might need to service the TST 5 unit to get the lock-out to be solid.

When you mention "springy"; does the rebound slow down when you adjust it? If not, or not so much, there might be something else going on with that TST 5 unit.

How much air pressure are you using?

MTD USA


----------



## dickiedoodles (Oct 7, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> I think the best thing to do is give us a call and have us go through your fork. If you are located in the USA you can either contact me here with your info and I can give you an RA# to send it back...or you could just call us and do it that way. 661-257-6630
> 
> If you are located anywhere other than the US you will have to get in touch with our distributor for that country.


Thanks for that. I'm in the UK, so will contact the UK distributors. Can I check with you first...is it a company called Windwave?
Thanks again for advice.


----------



## gav_dub100 (Nov 14, 2008)

*888ata wc*

Hey MTD, having sn issue with my 888ata wc. could you help me out? thanks in advance! http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=489754


----------



## torkroll (Oct 8, 2008)

Does anyone know the wire diameters of '06+ 888's springs? Im trying to determine which springs my fork may have come with (bought used). Thanks for your time.


----------



## jhazard (Aug 16, 2004)

*2007 Super T question...*

I've searched high an low, but maybe I've missed something...

Just picked up an 07 Super T RCV (?) - I'm curious to know if there is a flat crown available for it?

The way I'm set up, the drop crown bumps in to my top tube before the rubber bumpers hit. I have it rigged so it wont dent the tube, but if I bail, I'm pretty sure there's going to be some structural consequence if that crown slams the tube hard enough.

I could run the drop crown inverted, but then the stem won't fit in the space between the drops. Also, yeah, I can run the crown up an inch or so, but I'm trying to keep the bars low as possible.

Thanks for any suggestions
:thumbsup:


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Hi there, I've been riding a Z1 Light Eta fork 06 for almost 3 years now and I want to change oil and may be bushings as the fork isn't as smooth as usual, I can change oil myself but I'll have to send the fork if new bushings are required, the fork stanchions doesn't have any noticeable play while riding or even grabbing hard on the front brake but I do notice a small play when I rock the fork back and forth while stopped. So do you think it's time for a full service or an oil change would be enough?could you also tell me oil height or volume on that model?cheers!


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Hey there Tom,
thought you may be able to offer some advice seeing as I am at my wits end with Marzocchi in Australia.I have currently been waiting near on five months for my Bomber 66's to get fixed,they went into the service centre(S.C.V Imports-the only service centre in oz) for new stanchion seals six months ago and came back with a snapped off compression knob on one side and air leaking from the ATA valve on the other side.So two new carts have been ordered from Italy and every other week they tell me the shipment is due next week.Five months! This is ********!,I don't wana think badly of Marzocchi and I know you've helped me out before,so just keen to hear your views on this,cheers....:madman:


----------



## Inad (Nov 17, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Yes it is. It would require a fulll disassembly and adding a 40mm spacer to the pumping rod.


And 2008 XC 600 TST2 from 100mm to 140mm?


----------



## AIRADDICT (Jan 29, 2009)

*New Dj3 And Oil Rings*

i just bought a 09' P.1 and it is equipped with the DJ3 80mm fork. is it normal for a slight oil ring to be left on the stanchions whenever the forks are compressed? thanks


----------



## AIRADDICT (Jan 29, 2009)

normal?


----------



## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

Hi,

I'm a happy customer of Marzocchi, I have a XC ATA 700 and my girlfriend has a XC ATA 600 II.

I'm about to service these forks and I already have the service kits and exploded view for both forks. 

Can you tell me where can I get the service manuals for these forks? Can you send me?

Thanks!


----------



## adrenalnjunky (Jul 28, 2007)

I just picked up a 2002 Rocky Mountain Edge that has a Bomber Z1 Wedge fork - looks like 130 or 140mm travel. I'm going to be using the fork on a more XC-style frame, and would like to reduce travel to 100-110mm if possible?


----------



## Commencalrider (Feb 14, 2009)

Hello I just purchased a 2006 commencal supreme with a drop off II fork w/150mm of travel. but the lowers are silver and I cannot find any info on this model. 1st I need to set it up i'm 260 lbs and not riding stuff that 2 big but there are some 2 and 3 foot drops. thanks.


----------



## AIRADDICT (Jan 29, 2009)

AIRADDICT said:


> i just bought a 09' P.1 and it is equipped with the DJ3 80mm fork. is it normal for a slight oil ring to be left on the stanchions whenever the forks are compressed? thanks


where are you marzocchi tech?


----------



## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

I might be wrong, but I believe you should not worry about it. This oring is there just to help you measure the sag. It also helps you to find out how much travel have you achieved with your fork in your last ride. :thumbsup:


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

ban said:


> Hi there, I've been riding a Z1 Light Eta fork 06 for almost 3 years now and I want to change oil and may be bushings as the fork isn't as smooth as usual, I can change oil myself but I'll have to send the fork if new bushings are required, the fork stanchions doesn't have any noticeable play while riding or even grabbing hard on the front brake but I do notice a small play when I rock the fork back and forth while stopped. So do you think it's time for a full service or an oil change would be enough?could you also tell me oil height or volume on that model?cheers!


3 years no service?? Ouch. I think you would be fine just disassembling the fork and changing the oil as long as your seals aren't leaking. The oil hieght for that fork is 55mm from the top with everything fully compressed and springs removed. 65mm is a good place to start if you are a lighter rider. I don't think you will need new bushings either...but you have to change the oil for sure. That can make the fork buttery again.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jhazard said:


> I've searched high an low, but maybe I've missed something...
> 
> Just picked up an 07 Super T RCV (?) - I'm curious to know if there is a flat crown available for it?
> 
> ...


We do not offer a flat clamp for that fork.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

verme_vsf said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm a happy customer of Marzocchi, I have a XC ATA 700 and my girlfriend has a XC ATA 600 II.
> 
> ...


We don't currently have a service manual for our forks. I wish we did. We just train shops that want to know how to do it. They come to our office and get trained. If you have specific questions you can always PM me with them.

Sorry I don't have more info for you,

MTD USA


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Commencalrider said:


> Hello I just purchased a 2006 commencal supreme with a drop off II fork w/150mm of travel. but the lowers are silver and I cannot find any info on this model. 1st I need to set it up i'm 260 lbs and not riding stuff that 2 big but there are some 2 and 3 foot drops. thanks.


You will want to adjust the spring rate via the air preload on the top of the fork. You will want about 25-30% sag. Just adjust the air pressure until you find that sag piont (standing up bars weighted like you are riding) and go from there. I think the only other feature that forks has is rebound on the bottom.

Have fun, good luck!
MTD USA


----------



## Commencalrider (Feb 14, 2009)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You will want to adjust the spring rate via the air preload on the top of the fork. You will want about 25-30% sag. Just adjust the air pressure until you find that sag piont (standing up bars weighted like you are riding) and go from there. I think the only other feature that forks has is rebound on the bottom.
> 
> Have fun, good luck!
> MTD USA


Thanks a ton, But I do have one more question but only because I am totally new to this, So this fork doesn't have springs in it? and what model year did the drop off 2 come with silver lowers?:madman: I can't find anything about this fork anywhere. Thanks again


----------



## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> We don't currently have a service manual for our forks. I wish we did. We just train shops that want to know how to do it. They come to our office and get trained. If you have specific questions you can always PM me with them.
> 
> Sorry I don't have more info for you,
> 
> MTD USA


Thanks for your reply. I will certainly contact you in case I need any help. :thumbsup:


----------



## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hi, i use a 888 rc3 wc 2009 now i want to play with the tree knobs.. but dont now wath effect any knob have... i only anderstand the rebound knob. any idee??
thanks


----------



## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

Check Marzocchi's website for more details about this fork...I'm surely you will find what you're looking for in the tech manuals page (see link below)

http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/d...Folder=208&IDOggetto=56484&LN=UK&Sito=usa-mtb


----------



## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

mech preload, is that same like harder spring?
lower side compression is that for beginnig and ending travel
upper compression is that for oil volume?


----------



## Guest (Feb 15, 2009)

*Reduce travel to 170/180mm of 888 RC2X*

I was wondering if it's possible to reduce travel on a 2007 - 888 RC2X fork?

The fork has 200mm travel but I would like it to be 180mm or 170mm. I know some 2005 and 2006 models were available as 170mm.

So is it possible to do so on a 888 RC2X?

thnx


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

hehe, yes I'm lazy but I did an oil change when the fork had only one month of use to replace the oil once the break up period of the fork ended but yes, now it's time for new oil for sure, cheers Tom!:thumbsup: :thumbsup: 


Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> 3 years no service?? Ouch. I think you would be fine just disassembling the fork and changing the oil as long as your seals aren't leaking. The oil hieght for that fork is 55mm from the top with everything fully compressed and springs removed. 65mm is a good place to start if you are a lighter rider. I don't think you will need new bushings either...but you have to change the oil for sure. That can make the fork buttery again.


----------



## Commencalrider (Feb 14, 2009)

*Thanks in advance*

Thanks a ton, But I do have one more question but only because I am totally new to this, So this fork doesn't have springs in it? and what model year did the drop off 2 come with silver lowers? I can't find anything about this fork anywhere. Thanks again:madman:


----------



## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

I'm looking for the bump stops or frame protectors for the 888's I haven't been able to find them at jenson or pricepoint the only place I found them was on chain reacation but they happen to be out of stock. Any idea where I can get these? Or am I just searching for it with the wrong name.


----------



## gav_dub100 (Nov 14, 2008)

K_Labs said:


> I'm looking for the bump stops or frame protectors for the 888's I haven't been able to find them at jenson or pricepoint the only place I found them was on chain reacation but they happen to be out of stock. Any idea where I can get these? Or am I just searching for it with the wrong name.


Just order them from crc and for the time being just cut up an old grip and zip tie it on to the fork to use while your wainting for them.


----------



## K_Labs (Nov 3, 2008)

Right on thanks for the idea.CRC is out of stock. I checked the Marzocchi website and it appears they are out of stock also.


----------



## Mindauxx (Apr 11, 2008)

Dear Marzocchi,

I have two questions according to my aftermarket 2007 Marzocchi 66 SL1 ATA fork, which I have dissasembled for the first time:

1) I have replaced oil and seals, and I am trying to assemble it. Problem - I cannot tighten the bottom right (RC2 leg) nut, it rotates together with the lower part of rebound cartridge. How do I tighten it, how do I make the cartridge not to turn?

2) My fork's left leg (ATA leg), when disasembled had a very nasty corrosion with bumps an so on - on the inside of the lowers. I tried to remove it, but it didn't seem that it can be removed easily. Also bushings were a little damaged, and thus the lower parts of the stanchions were damaged too, oxidated, and a little scratched, despite being black anodized. This all caused the fork movement to be not so smooth  The fork leg seemed not to have enough oil or what, that this corrosion happened... I don't know. Why is it so, how to fix this problem?
By the way, the rebound (RC2) leg was in perfect shape, smooth and lubed.

Thank you Marzocchi tech 
Good luck!
--


----------



## toddyp (Jul 26, 2007)

Hi guys

I am quiet interested in buying a set of the 08 888rc3 wc fork but am abit scared of the weight. I have seen so many different weights for them and don't know which one is the actual weight. If possible i need to know an actual weight as im a bit of a weight wennie.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Mindauxx said:


> Dear Marzocchi,
> 
> I have two questions according to my aftermarket 2007 Marzocchi 66 SL1 ATA fork, which I have dissasembled for the first time:
> 
> 1) I have replaced oil and seals, and I am trying to assemble it. Problem - I cannot tighten the bottom right (RC2 leg) nut, it rotates together with the lower part of rebound cartridge. How do I tighten it, how do I make the cartridge not to turn?


Easiest way is to use a impact wrench at the lowest torque setting. It works everytime.



> 2) My fork's left leg (ATA leg), when disasembled had a very nasty corrosion with bumps an so on - on the inside of the lowers. I tried to remove it, but it didn't seem that it can be removed easily. Also bushings were a little damaged, and thus the lower parts of the stanchions were damaged too, oxidated, and a little scratched, despite being black anodized. This all caused the fork movement to be not so smooth  The fork leg seemed not to have enough oil or what, that this corrosion happened... I don't know. Why is it so, how to fix this problem?
> By the way, the rebound (RC2) leg was in perfect shape, smooth and lubed.


Try a super light 600 fine sandpaper to knock down the high spots, it might just be build up from the sounds of it. If the actual black anodize is damaged I would worry a little about the strength of the tube now. I am not sure why it would do that. It should be sealed from the elements.
I hope this helps!
MTD USA



> Thank you Marzocchi tech
> Good luck!
> --


----------



## weiaba01 (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Marzocchi !! 

I have, among other Marzocchi forks, a 2007 All Mountain SL1, which I am very satisfied. 

Recently I noticed that the lock TST5 has stopped working and the touch of TST has become softer, with less compression. Taking a look to the TST cartridge, I have seen that the bflow-off valve that exists at the head of the TST cartridge has suffered a setback and has been bent aluminum rod, so the valve does not close completely over oil cartridge and this is why it is never blocked. 

I wanted to buy the piece that has broken down, but I do not know the reference of the piece for buying it. 

Please could you send me some information about AM SL1 2007 part numbers in order to ask the part now and for future reference ?

Thanks a lot and regards.

Antonio.


----------



## GarryB (Jan 12, 2004)

*XC 700 troubles*

First ride on a new 08 XC 700 with ATA and TST not a very good one. After about 30 minutes the fork was about flat. When I got home pumped it up again everything seems Ok in the garage except the fork does not have 100mm to 140mm travel. Measured it at 60mm to 100mm. Anyone else experience this? Very, very dissapointed with the manual also. You need a magnifying glass to read it and it is little to no help with any of the settings or pressures. I really should have spent the extra $$ for the TALAS. Hopefully the Marz. Tech guys can help.

So far my first Marzzochi experience is less than stellar.

Garry


----------



## gav_dub100 (Nov 14, 2008)

Hey,

go to: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/dealer_explodeddiagrams.html

It will have a pdf of an exploded diagram your fork and numbers on the parts, this is NOT the part number.

If you then open the excel file from the same page called Spare parts spreadsheet 2007 it will have the actual part number that corresponds to the number on the drawing.

Hope this helps! 



weiaba01 said:


> Hi Marzocchi !!
> 
> I have, among other Marzocchi forks, a 2007 All Mountain SL1, which I am very satisfied.
> 
> ...


----------



## vickys (Oct 4, 2007)

*Marathon Corsa Sl Wc 2008*

Hi,
I got a NOS MARATHON CORSA SL WC 2008.
Confuse with recommended air pressure.

Table 7 in the manual have got 2 set of pressure guide.
Which one should I follow?

I weight 60KG
Am I right to pump 132 into the Par (located at bottom of right leg)
And 103 on the SFA (top of right leg (red cap))

please advise.

thanks.


----------



## _james_ (Dec 19, 2005)

*2008 55 TST2 Oil Level Problem*

So, I'm rebuilding my 2008 55 TST2 and run into some issues.

I think I might not have the bottom seal cap assembly for the TST2 system. When I unscrew the cap on teh top of the fork the whole catridge comes out with nothing screwed into the bottom of the rod, just bare threads.

Looking down the stantions shows the rebound valve in the right leg.

How can I get my hands on a new seal cap assembly? Or is there a way for me to upgrade the internals on the TST side (besides the shim mod)?

Thanks!


----------



## weiaba01 (Jan 15, 2007)

gav_dub100 said:


> Hey,
> 
> go to: http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/dealer_explodeddiagrams.html
> 
> ...


Great !!!

Thanks a lot, Gav_dub100 !!

Antonio.


----------



## zach.scofield (Feb 18, 2009)

I have a 2001 x-fly 80 and I am very pleased w/ it. However I have gained about 35 extra pounds over the years and now weigh about 235-240lbs. What are the recommended air pressure settings? I ride and race XC. I have looked on the site and was only able to find oil volumes for 2001 models.
Thanks


----------



## marko1480 (Apr 10, 2008)

*Marzocchi 55ATA2 Setup*

Apologies if this has already been asked, but I have just got a set of 2008 Marzocchi 55 ATA2 forks and am having issues setting them up. I have located the valve at the bottom of the left fork leg - PAR? but cannot find the upper one on the same leg as per the 'manual' I have been given.

Any help gratefully recieved as to where to find the ATA valve as its not under the cap!

Mark


----------



## EL76 (Feb 13, 2005)

I believe forks with ATA2 only have 1 air chamber. From what i understand they do not have the Par chamber, so only one air valve. 
http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/d...p?IDFolder=140&IDOggetto=55918&Sito=mtb&LN=UK


----------



## weiaba01 (Jan 15, 2007)

Dear Marzocchi,

I need to replace the unit compression TST5 in my fork AM SL1 2007. The diagram that appears in the documentation of Marzocchi is this: 





But the TST5 has at the end of the tube the blow-off valve, not shown in the drawing of MZ ¿? 

The Marzocchi reference of the piece is 726031 / C, but that is not mine, can you tell which is the reference of the part with the blow-off valve included? Maybe the reference is OK and the mistake is only in the diagram but i'm not sure...

Please help me ! my fork feels like jelly now...

Thanks a lot.
Antonio.


----------



## Simon (Nov 16, 2004)

hey, Tom. I have a 2007 All-mountain 1. Today I rode my bike and did a bunny hop, my fork had a pop sound while landing, then the tst2 doesn't not work. It becomes no rebound damping and can't lock out!!!! I'm in Hong Kong, how can I fix it??? Pls help!


----------



## helexia23 (Jul 26, 2006)

*Marzocchi XC 600 ATA2 - Broken 3 Times in 1 Year...*

I have a 2008 Marzocchi XC 600 ATA2 with remote lockout which has been a nightmare:

1st month - Only getting about 60mm travel out of 140mm
3rd month - Fork stuck locked out

I sent it back to Marzocchi for warranty service. They were very nice and fixed it but it cost me $20* to send it back. About 3 weeks turnaround door to door.

8th month - Only getting about 20mm travel out of 140mm
Currently 9th month - Fork stuck locked out

(and yes the lockout is fully disengaged, I even removed the cable to be sure)


----------



## weiaba01 (Jan 15, 2007)

weiaba01 said:


> Dear Marzocchi,
> 
> I need to replace the unit compression TST5 in my fork AM SL1 2007. The diagram that appears in the documentation of Marzocchi is this:
> 
> ...


Tom, please, help me !! I can't use the fork until I replace the TST compression unit..

Thanks a lot.
Antonio.


----------



## Ganze (Feb 3, 2004)

I am rebuilding an 04 z1 drop off II. I plan on lowering the travel and just running air for a while. I know how to do all that but, as I pulled the fork out of the box today to look at it, I noticed a scratch in the anodized fork leg. It is fairly deep and may have to be buffed out to keep from messing up my new seals. Usable or trashed by a scratch?


----------



## Mr.P (Feb 8, 2005)

Ganze said:


> It is fairly deep and may have to be buffed out to keep from messing up my new seals. Usable or trashed by a scratch?


Try finger nail polish to fill in the scratch, then buff/light sand the nail polish smooth.

P


----------



## Ganze (Feb 3, 2004)

I just saw earlier that when the anodization fades, the strength decreases dramatically. seems drastic but I thought I would check. normally I wouldn't think twice about using some kind of epoxy and buff. 

ganze


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

toddyp said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I am quiet interested in buying a set of the 08 888rc3 wc fork but am abit scared of the weight. I have seen so many different weights for them and don't know which one is the actual weight. If possible i need to know an actual weight as im a bit of a weight wennie.


Weights are on the links:

2008-888-RC3: http://marzocchi.com/2008-888-RC3

2009-888-RC3-World Cup: http://marzocchi.com/2009-888-RC3-World Cup


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

*2009 44 ata tst micro- damper question?*

I am currently having a ride on the above fork and am curious about the tst micro damper. The outer red lever obviously adjusts LS compression, moving towards a LO of sorts. The gold knob adjusts the blowoff sensitivity of the LO, but I am not sure if it also adjusts HS compression. Anyone know if it is a ported damper with a spring loaded shimmed piston (with gold knob adjusting preload on the shim stack)? Cheers, Steve


----------



## nicoperaire (Feb 26, 2009)

hi, i have got a 888 rcv 09 on my new bike.
It always bottom out on drops, if I put air inside it gets hard too much and less sensitive, how can i solve this problem?


----------



## svmike (Sep 23, 2007)

how do I go about setting up my new XC 600 TST2? It's my first air sprung fork and also my first nice fork. I weigh 140lb


----------



## DarkRef (Feb 1, 2009)

Hi, small problem.

I bought an old stock marin from 2007 (I bought it 2 months ago) and it came with a Marzocchi MZ comp.

I am having trouble getting enough sag/drop when I sit on the bike. The preload dials are set on the softest/lowest setting.

It could be because I am very light, or because they are just cheap forks (the pole that goes from the fork to the handle bars, I dont know what its called, seems to be a bit rusty because its been sitting in the box for 2/3 years).

Is there anything I can do to get some more sag or even some more travel, since it doesnt seem that its reaching the full 120mm at the moment. I have read about some people taking the spring out of one side of the fork.....not sure


----------



## prowlus (Nov 16, 2007)

Hi Marz tech I think i have a major problem with my fork and the uk distributors 

January 10th , I purchased a 2009 Marzocchi 55 ata fork hoping it was gonna be sweet for the upcomming trails I wanted to ride this year like whinlatter park in the lake district . So 2 days later Evans put it onto my scott ransom 40 and just before they rode out , the TST2 cartridge stopped working after a test compression .
Fine they contact windwave for a fix and they told evans to bleed the cartridge which they did and still the cart isn't working . Next they tell me that they need to send me a new revised cartridge for the 2009 fork which took for some reason 6 weeks to arrive and when it did arrive today in march evans tried fixing it into the fork , it turned out to be the wrong cartridge!
Windwave had given me a tst micro cartridge thinking the fork evans mentioned was a 2008 55 ata! and this had taken 3 months of chasing them up for said part! 

I was wondering if I can demand compensation because this fork has cost me 3 months of riding as well as my rig becoming the most expensive hanger queen in the LBS


----------



## svmike (Sep 23, 2007)

following up on my previous post, I set the air pressure b/n 40 and 45psi and went for a brief ride on the local trail. Mmmm MM it was nice. I have noticed that I have yet to use the full 120mm of travel. Bottoming out is not something I'm shooting for, but I thought I would get more than 4inches of travel. Maybe I just haven't taken a hit heavy enough to compress the fork that much? 

How do I know when the TST2 needs to be bled?


----------



## Trekbro (Oct 25, 2005)

09 888ATA WC, i got the recommended air pressure for 155p rider, 110psi PAR chamber 65psi ATA chamber, the fork works fine for a few minutes, but after a few minutes of not moving the fork, I compress the fork and the rebound goes crazy, it knocks out very loud every time i compress and release the fork makes a metal to metal noise when it full extends, and the rebound is set up 7 or 9 click from completely open.
I bottom out the fork twice even with 125psi in the PAR chamber, I have 5 runs of DH's on this fork on a not very rocky or technical trail, and some AM riding, it's almost new it just been sitting at home for awhile cuz the winter.
I'd put 65psi yesterday morning, and by the afternoon there was 0psi on the ATA chamber, it felt good for 10 or 15 min and after that it makes that crazy noise when the fork extends.
Help me! the summer is almost here and I dont want to be dealing with technical issues!!! please I love Marzocchi but this is BS this is a brand new fork common!
Thanks in adance for your help.


----------



## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

*Replace TST micro or Switch?*

I just blew my TST micro cart in my 55 ETA and was wondering if changes have been made for the 2009 year. If so, is it going to last me longer than the Nine months that I have had mine for? Or would changing to the RC3 be a better option? Longer lasting? On one hand the tst would be warrantied but I would have to pay for the RC3. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
MCtigre


----------



## Fassberg (Aug 14, 2006)

Hi
Are going to swap oil on a 888 RC3 -08 and i´m looking for the right oil volume. I know that MZ says 310cc but I wonder what 310cc is measured from the top of the stanchion to the surface of the oil.

Cheers
Fredrik


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

prowlus said:


> I was wondering if I can demand compensation because this fork has cost me 3 months of riding as well as my rig becoming the most expensive hanger queen in the LBS


:lol:

haha mate you anit gonna get squat

I lost a total of 7 months riding and over $300 in postage and having to F%ck round with marz and their retarded original aussie dealer Groupe sportiff ti get my 08 66 rcv probelms sorted. Went through 2 INSPECTED AND CERTIFIED DEFECT FREE (BULL!!!) replacement forks. Now im on a 09 RC3 and if it fails, im going to consumer affairs to see if they can do anything


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Fassberg said:


> Hi
> Are going to swap oil on a 888 RC3 -08 and i´m looking for the right oil volume. I know that MZ says 310cc but I wonder what 310cc is measured from the top of the stanchion to the surface of the oil.
> 
> Cheers
> Fredrik


310cc (cubic centimetres) or 310ml (millilitres) is the volume or amount of oil to put in the fork, it has nothing to do with measurements from the top of the stanchion to the oil surface.


----------



## Fassberg (Aug 14, 2006)

cobba said:


> 310cc (cubic centimetres) or 310ml (millilitres) is the volume or amount of oil to put in the fork, it has nothing to do with measurements from the top of the stanchion to the oil surface.


Sorry my bad.
I know that 310 is the amount of oil in cc or ml but I rather measure from the top of the stanchion to the surface of the oil. It will be more accurate and less chans to "over fill" with oil 

Cheers
F


----------



## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

*55r to TST2 conversion incompatible?*

Hi guys...I have an '08 55r that the rebound cart went out on. I mailed it to you and it looks like you guys drilled 2 holes in the bottom of it and added suspension oil to simulate an "open bath" type setup???
See pic:









Anyways that went to crap in 2 rides. I talked to Gideon and he sold me a TST2 cartridge to replace the R cartridge. He said it's a 2009 cartridge that has addressed all of the terrible issues of the 2008 TST2. I looked at the package and it says '08 right on it and you guys aren't even offering a 2009 55TST2.:madmax:

Here's the deal...he told me to:
1. Pull the R cartridge out of the Left leg
2. catch the oil
3. pop the TST2 in the Left leg
4. put the oil back in

The foot nuts are different on these two cartridges:
















The R cartridge foot nut has an "O-ring" on the base of it that seals against the bottom of the lowers and keeps the fluid in. The TST2 foot nut has an "O-ring" around the circumference of the nut that doesn't touch a dadgum thing when you install it. If I pour any oil in there to keep the piston/bushings lubed...it's just gonna freakin' leak out.

Pic of the rod ends:









Am I missing something?

I thought the TST2 was supposed to go in the Right leg anyways. I'm sure it doesn't matter all that much which leg it goes in, but this freakin' "O-Ring" is useless on here unless it's there to hold the rebound knob that Marzocchi forgot to send me with the new cartridge. I could see it if the TST2 didn't even use any oil to keep the piston lubed, but you still need to keep the bushings lubed. How do you keep the fluid in the leg?

Did they forget to send me more than just the "R" knob?

What do I do?


----------



## keithtrance (Feb 26, 2009)

*XC600 ATA2 TST2 Oil Change Instructions*

Hello,

Can anyone help me out with oil change instructions for a 2008 Marzocchi XC600 ATA2 TST2 fork? The fork is new and I just want to change to a lighter oil to reduce the compression damping. (7.5wt to 5wt).

Normal manual is no use and I can't find anything on the net


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

keithtrance said:


> Hello,
> 
> Can anyone help me out with oil change instructions for a 2008 Marzocchi XC600 ATA2 TST2 fork? The fork is new and I just want to change to a lighter oil to reduce the compression damping. (7.5wt to 5wt).
> 
> Normal manual is no use and I can't find anything on the net


So you want to replace the damper oil, correct? Would I be right in suggesting the fork spikes on high speed hits? Search for the thread "tst2 conversion to shim damping step by step", which will give you all the info you need to either change the oil (remember the oil height for your fork is 80mm from top as mentioned in the thread) or do the conversion. I STRONGLY recommend the conversion, it will make your fork work as well as or better than the TST Micro version. Let me know if you need any more info. Cheers, Steve


----------



## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

*55 TSTmicro or RC3*

Tom,
I sent my 08 55 ETA in for warranty due to my TST Cart not working. I have a few Questions.
1.If I went with the RC3 Cart would I feel a noticible difference in compression. 
2. How much weight difference would there be going with the RC3 over the TST because of the added Oil amount?
Thanks,
Mctigre:thumbsup: 
PS. I gotta let you guys know by Monday because that is when yall should get my Fork.
I wanna get my shock back soon because My birthday is on the 17th(Big 40) and I want to get a ride in the weekend before.


----------



## DHsloth (Sep 30, 2005)

Trekbro said:


> 09 888ATA WC, i got the recommended air pressure for 155p rider, 110psi PAR chamber 65psi ATA chamber, the fork works fine for a few minutes, but after a few minutes of not moving the fork, I compress the fork and the rebound goes crazy, it knocks out very loud every time i compress and release the fork makes a metal to metal noise when it full extends, and the rebound is set up 7 or 9 click from completely open.
> I bottom out the fork twice even with 125psi in the PAR chamber, I have 5 runs of DH's on this fork on a not very rocky or technical trail, and some AM riding, it's almost new it just been sitting at home for awhile cuz the winter.
> I'd put 65psi yesterday morning, and by the afternoon there was 0psi on the ATA chamber, it felt good for 10 or 15 min and after that it makes that crazy noise when the fork extends.
> Help me! the summer is almost here and I dont want to be dealing with technical issues!!! please I love Marzocchi but this is BS this is a brand new fork common!
> Thanks in adance for your help.


Almost the same as Trekbro. But I have the 2008 version. My fork makes a clunking sound like a lose headset as I compress and release it lightly. When I compress it more, it is even louder...I get the same metal to metal clunk...

Also oil goes out of the right leg air valve on top...It looses air pressure after a few days....

I have race it already may be 4 to 5 times. I train on a rocky trail occasionally...Hope you can help us....


----------



## Nomada_AM (Mar 20, 2007)

*2008 Marzocchi 4X: Oil change and knock sound....*

Hi,

Great to find a Marzocchi forum!! I hope you can help me with some questions about my 2008 4X fork.....

I would like to change the oil but haven´t been able to find information on how it is done.....I have tried the Marzocchi website and Google.........Do you know how it is done or where I can find some detailed info on the proceedure?

My fork has also developed a knock sound, when it returns to its full extension after being compressed......what can be causing that? I have read somewhere that it is because the rebound is too fast, so I tried with more dampening.......it did get a bit better but the knock is still there and it is pretty anoying!

I hope you can help me!!

Thanks,

Fabio.


----------



## keithtrance (Feb 26, 2009)

Hi Steve. Thanks for the reply.

From the tutorial I understand how to perform the modification (Thanks to Mr. P for taking the plunge!). I would like to clarify some of the basics about the oil change though if you'll bear with me.

Is the oil contained within the damper body or in the whole fork leg?

I assume I tip the fork to drain the old oil and work the fork a few times to remove all oil?

When refilling, do I fill the extended fork leg to the level indicated and then replace the damper cartridge or fill the cartridge body and then reassemble? 

Is there any oil in the left side air spring? 
How is this changed? 
Should the same oil be used as for the damping side?

Any other tips recommendations welcome!

Back to the modification, Can I source the shims from Marzocchi or do I have to make them up myself? If so what material and what thickness for the shims and the spacer?

Thanks for all the help! It's much appreciated!


----------



## The Orange Prophet (Oct 4, 2006)

I've just picked up a used 888 SL ATA. At the moment it's showing about 185mm of stanchion between the top of the seals and the bottom of the lower crown which is set in it's lowest position. Judging by the similar distance between seal and crwon on my 160mm 66 RCV - ie roughly 5mm more than the stated travel, I reckon this gives me about 180mm travel. I don't think it's a wind down issue as I can't wind it back out towards a 205mm gap. 

I've tried defalating and reinfalting both chambers (in the correct order) but I've only got a couple of mm extra from where it was. 

If there is an easy fix or something that I/or my LBS might do deal with this, I'd appreciate it. IF not then I'm faced with sending it to the UK importer for a strip down and worst case scenaio, new expensive parts.

Cheers in advance!


----------



## OfferCanfi (Mar 13, 2009)

*Mraz AM4 valve core broken*

Hay there,

after trying to adjust my sag i was left with a broken valve in my hand 
the marz dealer wont replace it but wants to replace the hole steerer caluminum cap,
i showed him how to remove the broken valve from the cap,
i wish to order the part and can't find a pic to be sure.

Marzocchi schrader valve core - 532888

does any one have a pic of this item? it will cost me 3.15$ to order instead of 100$ for what the dealer wants.
i just want to make sure im ordering the right part.

thnx and happy rides
Offer Canfi


----------



## vickys (Oct 4, 2007)

*Marathon Corsa Sl Wc 2008*

Hi,
I got a NOS MARATHON CORSA SL WC 2008.
Confuse with recommended air pressure.

Table 7 in the manual have got 2 set of pressure guide.
Which one should I follow?

I weight 60KG
Am I right to pump 132 into the Par (located at bottom of right leg)
And 103 on the SFA (top of right leg (red cap))

please advise.

thanks.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

Hi there, could you please tell me oil levels for a Marzocchi 888rc2x 2006? I know those forks use 220cc but, is it possible to put more or less oil depending on the riders weight? I weigh about 165lbs as a reference...cheers in advance!


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

ban said:


> Hi there, could you please tell me oil levels for a Marzocchi 888rc2x 2006? I know those forks use 220cc but, is it possible to put more or less oil depending on the riders weight? I weigh about 165lbs as a reference...cheers in advance!


 http://marzocchi.com/spa/mtb/products/oillevel.asp?LN=UK&Sito=usa-mtb&Y=2006


----------



## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

*Rc3&55*

I just changed my TST Micro for a RC3 cart in my 55eta. I would like suggestions on pressures for the RC3 side and the eta side. I weigh 162lbs without gear. I ride local trails in Austin Texas. RC3 makes the fork heavier for those wanting to change to it. 
Thanks,
Mctigre:thumbsup:


----------



## nmtim (Sep 21, 2005)

MCtigre said:


> I just changed my TST Micro for a RC3 cart in my 55eta. I would like suggestions on pressures for the RC3 side and the eta side. I weigh 162lbs without gear. I ride local trails in Austin Texas. RC3 makes the fork heavier for those wanting to change to it.
> Thanks,
> Mctigre:thumbsup:


What did the upgrade set you back?


----------



## MCtigre (Feb 24, 2006)

nmtim,
about $200.00 and about Half a pound in weight.


----------



## zach.scofield (Feb 18, 2009)

Tom,
I have a z2 x-fly 80 and it is leaking oil and air out the bottom of the legs. The left leg will not hold air at all and when I try and pump it the air just leaks right out the bottom as fast as I put it in. It is also slowly leaking oil. The right leg will hold air for a day or 2 at about 30-40 psi but when I add enough air for my weight 52psi it blows out the bottom w/ oil almost immediately and then reseals at about the 30-40psi mark.

Is this fork rebuildable w/ available oem parts or can it be upgraded to a newer rider adjustable system from a newer model fork? 

I am open to just about any suggestions as I like this fork and would like to keep it for a future build if it can be saved.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

zach.scofield said:


> Tom,
> I have a z2 x-fly 80 and it is leaking oil and air out the bottom of the legs. The left leg will not hold air at all and when I try and pump it the air just leaks right out the bottom as fast as I put it in. It is also slowly leaking oil. The left leg will hold air for a day or 2 at about 30-40 psi but when I add enough air for my weight 52psi it blows out the bottom w/ oil almost immediately and then reseals at about the 30-40psi mark.
> 
> Is this fork rebuildable w/ available oem parts or can it be upgraded to a newer rider adjustable system from a newer model fork?
> ...


Has your fork ever been serviced? It might just need a service. You could also do a upgrade / crash replacement for a newer fork. You would just need to send in the fork you have and figure out what fork would suit you best. Give us a call at 661-257-6630. We will set you up with a RA# and the info you need. 
I hope this helps. 
MTD


----------



## zach.scofield (Feb 18, 2009)

The previous owner said he had it serviced last year but I am doubting it. I will service the fork and if nothing else changes I will give you guys a call and see what we can arrange.


----------



## WaRpAtH (Jul 7, 2006)

Hey MTD,

Can you give me the oil level measurement for a 2009 888 RC3?

I apologize if this was on a previous post.


----------



## turbodog (Feb 28, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Public forums, great place to complain!! Just joking....kind of
> This isn't the first time we have had requests to move the valve. Currently it fit on "most" frames, yours not included. Could you imagine our warehouse if we had to double the SKU's to have both types to make all customers happy. Currently there are over 40 different shock configurations, 90 different mounting hardware sizes and 80 or so spring lengths and rates.....plus spare parts....and then there are forks .
> 
> I used to work at the other "M" company and we must have moved the air valve 3-4 times. Everytime we moved it and did another run we would have the same issue, somebody would need it in a different location. At an OEM level is not such a big problem due to the OEM making sure it fits and tweeking the design accordingly to fit the shock design. It's a woo of after market only.
> ...


I am also in need of a low-profile valve for a Roco Air TST R....any more thoughts on the subject?


----------



## danpower (Mar 19, 2009)

Hi there a quick couple of questions. I have bought a XC 500 ETA 2008. its been fine but after around 500k seems to be very short on air. I have been trying to find out where the air valves are located and seem to have found one at the base of the left leg and one under the eta switch on the right leg. Which one is positive air? or are they both? and is there a recommeded psi for a light rider such as myself (around 63kg)?
basically how do i put air in these things without screwing them up?
thanks in advance


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

WaRpAtH said:


> Hey MTD,
> 
> Can you give me the oil level measurement for a 2009 888 RC3?
> 
> I apologize if this was on a previous post.


220mm from the top, fully compressed, spring removed, both sides. 7.5wt fully synthetic oil only.

:thumbsup:


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

danpower said:


> Hi there a quick couple of questions. I have bought a XC 500 ETA 2008. its been fine but after around 500k seems to be very short on air. I have been trying to find out where the air valves are located and seem to have found one at the base of the left leg and one under the eta switch on the right leg. Which one is positive air? or are they both? and is there a recommeded psi for a light rider such as myself (around 63kg)?
> basically how do i put air in these things without screwing them up?
> thanks in advance


Hum, I don't have any info but that fork should have an air valve on the top of the non-eta side. If not, try the air valve on the top under the ETA knob. I don't know about the air valve on the bottom f the leg unless it has ATA as well. 0-15psi on the ETA side. If there's an air valve on the top of the non-eta side, 0-55psi.

I hope this helps,
MTD Tom


----------



## turbodog (Feb 28, 2004)

turbodog said:


> I am also in need of a low-profile valve for a Roco Air TST R....any more thoughts on the subject?


See my PM!!!

Thanks!!!!


----------



## danpower (Mar 19, 2009)

cheers I will give that a try.


----------



## WaRpAtH (Jul 7, 2006)

*2009 888 Rc3*

Thank you MTD.


----------



## obim (Jan 12, 2009)

*2008 55 Eta*

Hello,

I'm new to Marzocchi forks; 
just bought a brand new 2008 55 ETA,
and I am clearly disappointed by the "marketing brochure" they sent with it as a "manual" :madman:

As my dealer was not able to provide more detailed information I
spent some days searching for official Marzocchi
- exploded view
- spare parts list
- technical characteristics
- fitting/installing instructions
- dismantling and Service instructions
- Setup instructions

which I would - especially for a after market forks which are intended for users that install, setup and service their forks on their own - 
expect to come with the fork.

Obscurity I feel is not the way to inspire confidence in a product or company ...

Anyway, before I return it to the dealer:

can you please send me what I'm asking for?

Thank you in advance!

(Head Sticker: 921776 Engraved 1st Line: 3117A0935-9 Engraved 2nd Line: T08D0205)


----------



## Binford (Oct 4, 2008)

*2009 66rcv*

Does the OEM version of the 2009 66 RCV have a steel or aluminum steer tube?
The one I was looking at(online) has a black steer tube, where the website shows it in standard aluminum colour.

And does it use pumping rods or cartridges?


----------



## davet (Jan 12, 2004)

My wife and I both have 2008 66ata forks. The axle on hers tightens easily and clicks into place. The axle on mine has to be tightened extremely tight in order to make it click. In fact when I tried to remove the axle last night I had to put a pipe on it, resulting in the axle breaking internally and me having to use a hacksaw to cut my hub out, then pound the non threaded side out with a drift. I'm sure you can imagine how pleased I am about this. The threaded end turned out easily. I always grease the axle before installing, and there was still grease on it when I pounded it out. For some reason the non threaded side got jammed into the fork.

I see there is an allen key on the QR end of the axle, and now that it's in a few broken pieces it looks like that allen key can adjust the tension on the ratchet mechanism on the axle.

I've looked high and low for any information in the tech manual for a description of this. Did I miss something or is this an oversight?

Please advise.


----------



## diroc (Mar 24, 2009)

*2007 66 RCV Cartridge Removal*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Easiest way is to use a impact wrench at the lowest torque setting. It works everytime.
> MTD USA


I have the same problem removing the left cartridge. I can loosen it up, but it keeps turning after. I keep the top cap tightened to increase friction on the cartridge, but I don't have access to an impact wrench.

Do you have any other suggestions? Could I maybe add more spacers and compress the spring even more to increase resistance on the cartridge?

Thanks in advance!

Derek


----------



## miklorsmith (Aug 16, 2006)

*Latest from the Field*

I'm just a customer with an '07 66. Last year at Whistler I scratched the stanchions, pretty high up. I rode it the rest of the season with a little oil leakage. I was able to gently sand off the sharp parts, leaving a smooth finish. Even afterward, a little oil was leaking out but nothing catastrophic. The bike sat through our rainy season which is coming to an end (some day) and six weeks ago I took the bike into my LBS for consultation.

The shop is a licensed Marzocchi service shop. They weren't 100% sure if the uppers needed replacement or not so sent to the real experts at Marzocchi for a professional determination of whether the uppers need replacement and a rebuild with new seals. I'm not losing ride time yet, so haven't been a jerk and the shop knows this and probably could be more persistent BUT

Last week the shop called Marzocchi to see what in the world was taking so long. The 'dude' found the fork and the best I can summarize the conversation between my shop (which is competent) and the 'dude' goes something like this:

d - "Yeah man, we have your fork, it was in the 'call back' pile".
s - "um, so what are you doing with it?"
d - "waiting for you to call us back."
s - "um, OK, so are you replacing the uppers or what?"
d - "well, the uppers are scratched man, do you want us to replace them?"
s - "dude, the reason we sent it to you was for YOUR opinion on that question."
d - "so we're replacing the uppers?"
s - "no, please rebuild and send back to us ASAP."

So now, I'll be getting the fork back from Marzocchi almost two months later without even answering the one question it was sent there for. My shop would have had the service done a month ago or more. If this were during the season I'd be screaming right now. As it is, I am just mildly annoyed and really not understanding how items in for service could fall through the cracks this badly.

I assume you have a service tracking number and I assume you have a computer tracking when things arrive and when they go out. I assume it lets you know when things have been around *too long* and alerts you. Maybe I'm assuming too much, but in this business where lost riding days are a rider's biggest frustration I should be able to assume all the above.

Anyhoo, I'm half venting, half letting you know it ain't all fixed.


----------



## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

I have had the same issue. You CAN use the allen screw to release some tension. Too late now though. They sent me a new axle no questions asked.


----------



## Mtn. Biker123 (Sep 17, 2005)

miklorsmith said:


> I'm just a customer with an '07 66. Last year at Whistler I scratched the stanchions, pretty high up. I rode it the rest of the season with a little oil leakage. I was able to gently sand off the sharp parts, leaving a smooth finish. Even afterward, a little oil was leaking out but nothing catastrophic. The bike sat through our rainy season which is coming to an end (some day) and six weeks ago I took the bike into my LBS for consultation.
> 
> The shop is a licensed Marzocchi service shop. They weren't 100% sure if the uppers needed replacement or not so sent to the real experts at Marzocchi for a professional determination of whether the uppers need replacement and a rebuild with new seals. I'm not losing ride time yet, so haven't been a jerk and the shop knows this and probably could be more persistent BUT
> 
> ...


I have had the same interaction/experiences with a few of them over at Zoke. It's hit or miss with Mike in CS . That dude has been in the business way too long and it shows. He can be extremely hard to talk too. Overall the vibe is still good with them. I rarely send my stuff to them anymore. I think I do better work on my own forks to be honest. I just call them for parts and fluids and even then I get the wrong sh!t 75% of the time:madman: They would do well with a little more organization...IMO.


----------



## MiLi (Aug 23, 2008)

Hello.

i have 66rc2 ETA 180mm (2007). on aggressive DH ride i used max 15cm of fork. i have 165lbs. than i pumped out 20ml (ml=cc) oil in ETA and 20ml oil in RC2 side. i inserted the picture that you can see how i prepered the fork to messure oil height. now the oil is down to 65mm into the fork.

from both legs i removed plastic and metal parts and put ETA and RC2 "pole" maximum into the leg. is this right process for messuring oil height?

how do i know now if i have still enough oil in the fork? can fork be damaged if it is road with not enough oil?

thanks for replay


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

miklorsmith said:


> I'm just a customer with an '07 66. Last year at Whistler I scratched the stanchions, pretty high up. I rode it the rest of the season with a little oil leakage. I was able to gently sand off the sharp parts, leaving a smooth finish. Even afterward, a little oil was leaking out but nothing catastrophic. The bike sat through our rainy season which is coming to an end (some day) and six weeks ago I took the bike into my LBS for consultation.
> 
> The shop is a licensed Marzocchi service shop. They weren't 100% sure if the uppers needed replacement or not so sent to the real experts at Marzocchi for a professional determination of whether the uppers need replacement and a rebuild with new seals. I'm not losing ride time yet, so haven't been a jerk and the shop knows this and probably could be more persistent BUT
> 
> ...


Well here's how it works. When a fork arrives it gets recieved into our system. At that piont it gets staged for repair and now as of a week ago a notification is sent out letting you know it was received, this is brand new. Right now, in tech, it's a two week turn around or less from the time it is received into our system.

So when the technician goes to repair the fork, service the fork, or do any work they inspect the fork. The technician most likely noticed the scratches and called to ask if you wanted the stanchions replaced since we can't do a service or cover the work done on a seal replacement with these scratches in the stanchions. We always say you need to replace the stanchions if there is a scratch without question. I am assuming that the tech didn't get an answer or left a message about this with the shop. If the tech talked to the shop or you he would have continued to do the work needed as per the agreement made over the phone. If they do not get through to you or the shop it goes into a waiting / call back slot in the repair area. We go through these once a week or so and try to call again. 
So maybe that's the reasoning behind it taking so long....

Again we will not do any work on anything with scratches or noticable damage without the customer or shop "OK" on this and excepting the conditions of the fork being returned or worked on.

I am sorry you didn't feel good vibes from "dude" and I will go smack all of them in the back of the head for not treating you better. :nono:

Do me favor and PM me or post your RA# here. I will then look at the paperwork and see what the details were when it came back to us in the first place. Without this number I can't even find out if your fork is still here or not.

MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

MiLi said:


> Hello.
> 
> i have 66rc2 ETA 180mm (2007). on aggressive DH ride i used max 15cm of fork. i have 165lbs. than i pumped out 20ml (ml=cc) oil in ETA and 20ml oil in RC2 side. i inserted the picture that you can see how i prepered the fork to messure oil height. now the oil is down to 65mm into the fork.
> 
> ...


You got it right! Everything compressed, spring / s removed. If you don't have enough oil in the fork you will have inconsistant damping and your ETA will not function properly. 
65mm is a good hieght. 
I hope it work good for you now. It should.

MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Binford said:


> Does the OEM version of the 2009 66 RCV have a steel or aluminum steer tube?
> The one I was looking at(online) has a black steer tube, where the website shows it in standard aluminum colour.
> 
> And does it use pumping rods or cartridges?


9 times out of 10 the OEM forks get speced with a steel steertube. It's the decision of the product manager for that bike brand.

That fork has pumping rods not cartridges.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## MiLi (Aug 23, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> You got it right! Everything compressed, spring / s removed. If you don't have enough oil in the fork you will have inconsistant damping and your ETA will not function properly.
> 65mm is a good hieght.
> I hope it work good for you now. It should.
> 
> MTD Tom


Thank's Tom :thumbsup:

i tested it today and i'm amazed. this is the best fork i have ever rode :cornut:

cheers


----------



## jjpaz (Jan 12, 2006)

What's the oil level height for a XC500 ETA 2008 fork? 
It's assumed to be 140cc in the right leg, but I don't know level height.
Thanks!


----------



## kuba.st (Jul 27, 2008)

Hello!
I've got 07 888rc2x wc  I made a service few days ago and from that time got a problem with my rebound.
When I put the spring normaly and try to deflect the fork the spring stops at one place and than it shoots out. I don't know maybe there's something wrong with my cartridge? 
I have opened it another time and moved the spring a little bit. The noise stopped.
The problem is like this. When the rebound is full then it makes no noises and work normaly, but when I slow the rebound (8clicks) it starts making an awfull noise.Like something is shooting inside.
Maybe I should do something with it?? I dont know. Please help me.
Cheers.


----------



## miklorsmith (Aug 16, 2006)

Thanks Tom, for your honest answer. I'm not trying to dump on you, just trying to be honest.

If you want to find it, it's an '07 66 RC2 ETA, received Feb. 24 from Montlake Bicycle Shop in Seattle. This should be enough to find it. I forwarded a request to them for the RA# too.

Thanks for following up,

Mike


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

jjpaz said:


> What's the oil level height for a XC500 ETA 2008 fork?
> It's assumed to be 140cc in the right leg, but I don't know level height.
> Thanks!


The oil hieght on that fork is 45mm from the top fully compressed springs removed. 50mm is a good hieght.

Cheers
TGIF!
MTD Tom


----------



## Ride On (May 23, 2005)

*Question for you Tom.*

Hi Tom,
I sent this to Naz at Marz.Canada awhile back, and never heard a reply. I did try to get in touch with him again. I thought that possibly you could answer this;

Hi Naz,

We talked a while back about my 06 Z1 Light/ETA 150mm. The RC2 cartridge is driving me crazy with this constant banging upon rebound. Nothing makes a difference. It's not just top out, it happens immediately as it starts to rebound in the stroke. I can hear it with the cartridge out of the fork, when cycling the pushrod. Would a new cartridge be the same, or is it a defect?

The fork has done this since new. I bought it new from ebay this past summer, never used, in the original pkg. Can you possibly give me a price for a new RC2 cart.? I would really appreciate it.

I don't know if it makes any difference, but I work as a mechanic part time at my local LBS. We could go through them as well. Thanks again.

If you had any insight on this, I'd really appreciate it. I love the fork, but hate this constant noise. Thanks, Ride On.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Ride On said:


> Hi Tom,
> I sent this to Naz at Marz.Canada awhile back, and never heard a reply. I did try to get in touch with him again. I thought that possibly you could answer this;
> 
> Hi Naz,
> ...


The cartridge and install would run about 200 bucks retail. The cartridge is about 110.

As far as the noise goes, it's the rebound valve glide ring. Some do it, some don't and I am still wondering why that is myself. However I have tryed a "new valve". Down the road it will take the place of the one you have and all others. It was made to deal with this problem. Only deal is it can't be put into any existing closed cartridges like an RC2 but it will be changed for all future products.


----------



## ban (Jul 24, 2004)

So replacing the cartridge doesn't assure to get rid of the noise,does it?anyway,as far as the noise is concerned,I think it doesnt affect performance but it's quite annoying....



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The cartridge and install would run about 200 bucks retail. The cartridge is about 110.
> 
> As far as the noise goes, it's the rebound valve glide ring. Some do it, some don't and I am still wondering why that is myself. However I have tryed a "new valve". Down the road it will take the place of the one you have and all others. It was made to deal with this problem. Only deal is it can't be put into any existing closed cartridges like an RC2 but it will be changed for all future products.


----------



## jvm051 (Mar 10, 2009)

*Why wont it compress all the way?*

Dear support. I just purchased a 2009 Mongoose Teocalli Elite with the Marzocchi 44TST 2. According to the specs it should be 140mm or around 5.5 inches travel. I cannot get it to go past 4.25-4.5 inches. If I remove all the air, It will compress completely? Any ideas?
Thanks in advance


----------



## vickys (Oct 4, 2007)

*Marathon Corsa Sl Wc 2008 (repost)*

Hi Marzocchi,

I got a NOS MARATHON CORSA SL WC 2008.
Confuse with recommended air pressure.

Table 7 in the manual have got 2 set of pressure guide.
Which one should I follow?

I weight 60KG
Am I right to pump 132 into the Par (located at bottom of right leg)
And 103 on the SFA (top of right leg (red cap))

please advise.

thanks.


----------



## mich82 (Mar 29, 2009)

*marzocchi am sl2*

I would like to ask You what happens with my forks(marzocchi am sl2 2007 with ata)
I've changed oil in both legs but when i try to pump up the left leg from the top then air is going to the bottom of the leg. In consequence the fork behave as it would be single air chamber fork not like to separeted chambers. Wether i need to send it to the service or i'll be able to service it on my own as i have workshop and tools for my use.
Thanks for answer


----------



## wackoduke (Feb 20, 2007)

Hello, i was wondering if the ATA2 only has the one air valve adjustment on the bottom of the left leg? And is that the PAR adjustment? I know the ATA has an ata chamber that you can pump up as well on the top of the same leg, but I cant find it on my ATA2. If there are any other valves/adjusters on the ATA2 that you could let me know about that would be great, thanks!


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

wackoduke said:


> Hello, i was wondering if the ATA2 only has the one air valve adjustment on the bottom of the left leg? And is that the PAR adjustment? I know the ATA has an ata chamber that you can pump up as well on the top of the same leg, but I cant find it on my ATA2. If there are any other valves/adjusters on the ATA2 that you could let me know about that would be great, thanks!


To save Tom the trouble, yes ATA2 only has one valve as there is no PAR chamber. The valve adjusts both positive and (automatically) negative pressure. Keeps it very simple. If you need to increase spring progression (BO resistance) you could remove the valve core and add 5-10 mL of suspension oil to the chamber, but otherwise it is pretty much set and forget. Personally I think they are progressive enough as is, but everyone is different. Cheers, Steve


----------



## Stevo the Devo (Aug 26, 2006)

jvm051 said:


> Dear support. I just purchased a 2009 Mongoose Teocalli Elite with the Marzocchi 44TST 2. According to the specs it should be 140mm or around 5.5 inches travel. I cannot get it to go past 4.25-4.5 inches. If I remove all the air, It will compress completely? Any ideas?
> Thanks in advance


You are probably running too much air in the spring. With this fork you need to have _at least_ 15% sag (ie 21mm) to get most of the travel; the spring is quite progressive and doesn't easily use the last 10mm or so, but you can access it on really big drops/hits. If that doesn't help, you could try draining a few mL of oil out of the spring by removing the valve core, but remember you do need a few mL in there to keep the seal lubed. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve


----------



## gs11 (Sep 30, 2008)

*07 Corsa World Cup Oil Change?*

Hi,

Does anybody have instructions how to change oil in 07 Corsa World Cup fork?

I searched the forums and Marzocchi web site but can't find the service manual anywhere. My old Bomber had the manual when I bought it but it did not come with Corsa.

Sorry if it has been already asked here.

Cheers

gs11


----------



## wackoduke (Feb 20, 2007)

Thanks Stevo the Devo, does anyone know what pressure to run in the ATA2 chamber? Or what pressure should I start with and tune from there? I weigh 220, thanks!!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

vickys said:


> Hi Marzocchi,
> 
> I got a NOS MARATHON CORSA SL WC 2008.
> Confuse with recommended air pressure.
> ...


For your weight I would run abot 125psi in the bottom and about 45psi in the top. This should give you good working travel but still be firm enough for out of the saddle. Rule of thumb, if it's too soft at the beginning of the stroke you need to add air to the top valve, if it's too soft at the end of the travel then add air to the bottom air valve.

I hope this helps. 
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

gs11 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody have instructions how to change oil in 07 Corsa World Cup fork?
> 
> ...


That fork only has 25cc's of oil per side in it so it's pretty easy to do. The hardest part of your rebuild would be the TST micro rebuild. If you want to dive into that cartridge let me know or search this site. There's info here about the TST micro cartridge.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

wackoduke said:


> Thanks Stevo the Devo, does anyone know what pressure to run in the ATA2 chamber? Or what pressure should I start with and tune from there? I weigh 220, thanks!!


Try about 55-60psi. After that check you sag. You should have about 20-25% sag for a 55 fork. If it's a 44 15-20% will do. Check that and then adjust the pressure to get it dialed.

MTD Tom


----------



## gs11 (Sep 30, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That fork only has 25cc's of oil per side in it so it's pretty easy to do. The hardest part of your rebuild would be the TST micro rebuild. If you want to dive into that cartridge let me know or search this site. There's info here about the TST micro cartridge.
> 
> Cheers,
> MTD Tom


Hi Tom,

Thanks for the reply.

I had a look on the forums and couldn't find any instructions, maybe I'm not searching for the right thing?

Could you let me know where I can get hold of Corsa/TST cartridge service manual?

Cheers

gs11


----------



## cesslinger (Oct 23, 2008)

Hello,

My 08 55 TST2 died last week. The shop that I am attempting to do the warranty work with is Cactus Bike out of Phoenix, AZ.

Please check your voicemail and call them. The TST2 cartridge is dead and my fork is only 1 month old.


EDIT:

Cactus called and said that someone picked up the phone and the replacement is being sent tomorrow. Thank you whether your input helped with the matter or not.

EDIT 2:

The wrong part was sent and we are waiting on the correct cartridge assembly. RMA date is 04/07/2009, please help me to enjoy my bike before it gets too hot in Phoenix.


----------



## MiLi (Aug 23, 2008)

how you messure your SAG on 66? siting on the bike like manual says or in downhill riding position?

when i sit on the bike my SAG is around 4cm (22%) and when i stand up is around 5cm (28%).


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Hi Tom

My mate has a special kona cowan edition DJ2 in which the rebound cartridge died on him a while ago. He somehow managed to completely dissassemble the fork (Dont ask me how he managed, he's flat out turning a wrench!). After doing this he gave everything to me and asked me to get it sorted.

Now regarding the crapped out rebound cart, i saw in a post before that you guys drilled 2 small holes in the base of the cart to some how simulate a open bath system? can i do this myself or should i just chase down a new cart?

My other problem is this, as he took the fork apart, he didnt make note of the orientation of the spring side assembly. could you give me instructions on how to put that bit back together? ive included a pic to show you the parts

Pictures :

1: The crapped out rebound cart

2 and 3: the spring side assembly
Im cannot figure out how these parts go back together, could you please give me a description? 

Cheers


----------



## darkzeon (Jun 15, 2006)

*Z1 not using full travel*

We just changed the oil on my friends 03 Z1 because the fork felt stiff after going half of it's travel. After removing all the oil, spring, the fork get's stuck fully bottomed when you cycle the fork. This is without spring, oil. It seems the fork is only using 2-3 inches of travel, it's like there's an auto stopper/bottom out after 3"?

Could this be a case of twisted lowers,uppers, bushing problems maybe? What do you think?


----------



## mtfuji (Apr 1, 2009)

*TST2 doesnt work anymore*

Hi there,

from my XC700 with TST2 and ETA (model 2007), the TST2 doesnt lock anymore.

First I noticed that I could turn the TST2 knob a little more than usual, and that it sometimes did not lock. Now I can turn it more than half of a turn but it doesnt lock at all anymore.

This is after 6 months of riding and I only use the TST2 on the pavement, on the trail I use always ETA.

Can this simply be solved?

Thx a lot.
Arno


----------



## Ride On (May 23, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> The cartridge and install would run about 200 bucks retail. The cartridge is about 110.
> 
> As far as the noise goes, it's the rebound valve glide ring. Some do it, some don't and I am still wondering why that is myself. However I have tryed a "new valve". Down the road it will take the place of the one you have and all others. It was made to deal with this problem. Only deal is it can't be put into any existing closed cartridges like an RC2 but it will be changed for all future products.


Here's what Naz had to say;

"if you have the shop call us the part would cost you 75.00, it sounds like the inner top out spring is catching on the piston assembly this doesn't affect the cartridge it's just annoying"

And he also sounded confident, a new cartridge would be quiet, and not have the same problem. Also $75 is the cost price. It would be about $150 retail CAD.

I think I'll give it a go, seeing as it's a small price to pay compared to buying a new fork. And truthfully, I don't think any of the new forks out there(same travel range) have much advantage over this old fork. Okay, maybe some increase in stiffness, but that's about it. We all have heard about many problems with Lyrik's, 36's, and ATA's too. Ride On.


----------



## gs11 (Sep 30, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> That fork only has 25cc's of oil per side in it so it's pretty easy to do. The hardest part of your rebuild would be the TST micro rebuild. If you want to dive into that cartridge let me know or search this site. There's info here about the TST micro cartridge.
> 
> Cheers,
> MTD Tom


Hey Tom,
I still can't find any manuals and after quite a few hours of combing the net, I'm beginning to see why local shops here don't sell Marzocchi.

I opened the fork and drained about 75 ml of oil (that's how it was shipped), according to the 2007 oil chart levels both legs should have 20 (not sure of what as the chart doesn't have the units). YOu mentioned 25 cc's per leg.

WHat's the correct oil level of 100 mm corsa WC 2007?

Sorry dude, I'm probably barking at the wrong tree here, but it shouldn't be this hard to get what I consider pretty basic and simple information.

Not happy ...


----------



## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Greetings, Tom. I admire your ability to answer these constant questions and and maintain a cool head (mostly ;-) I'm in the retail ski business and deal with warranty issues every day, mostly "pilot errors" that should not be covered. Sorry but here's another question for you....hopefully a simple one since I have no problems yet.

I sent in a '07 XC 600 fork that apparently needed $265 of service (more than I paid new from jenson ~1 year ago). As an alternative they offered me an upgrade to the '09 44 ATA fork for a similar price, so I ordered it up last night. I'm hoping you can provide me with (or point me to) set-up info, oil levels, and maintenance procedures for it, so I can stay on top things and not bother you later  I looked at the user manual on line last night, and it uses a lot of words to say very little :-( Half of it is lawyers warnings.

Thanks.

JZ


----------



## A.P.B (Oct 21, 2006)

*Z1 Sport + ETA c.150*

I need to find the oil level For a 2006 Z1 Sport + ETA c.150 Thanks I dont think the oil levels on the web site are correct


----------



## harnahud (Mar 31, 2009)

*Marzocchi 55 Eta 2008*

HELLO FROM FRANCE!
I can't find specifications for my MARZOCCHI 55 ETA 2008!
I would like to know how much pressure in the ETA cartridge for 85 kg(187 LBS),?
Thank you very much for your help!
Sorry for me level in english!!!


----------



## harnahud (Mar 31, 2009)

Italy is not so far.......!!!!!!!!


----------



## Karlis (Dec 30, 2008)

*removing lower seal from 2005 Z1*

i have removed the upper seal and the stop ring, but the lower seal ain't coming out.
i have tried everything,but I am ending by tearing it apart.
my fork is 2005 Z1 FR2.


----------



## busterb (Jun 19, 2007)

any body know the pressure range on 08 55tst2? The pdf is confusing and the psi doesnt seem to match up with the way it feels. It almost seems i have to run really low pressure that doesnt match up with any of the pdf charts. Iv pm'd marz tech 2x with no response.


----------



## tilk (Feb 19, 2008)

*something equivelent??*

I have an MX pro lo that came with the bike and would like to replace it with something lighter. I'v looked at fox f100 and sid team 100mm .. is there anything similar from Marzocchi that I can get. I'v had no troubles with my current fork and would like to stay with the brand.


----------



## Ride On (May 23, 2005)

Karlis said:


> i have removed the upper seal and the stop ring, but the lower seal ain't coming out.
> i have tried everything,but I am ending by tearing it apart.
> my fork is 2005 Z1 FR2.


 Your not trying hard enough Really, it should yank right out. If your replacing it, it does'nt matter if you F it up.


----------



## motoxr (Mar 28, 2009)

i have some older Z2 atom bomb "bomber" forks. i seem to have a good deal of fork deflection, or slack. is it the pilot bushings that wear out in these things causing this"play"? can i order the bushings directly from zook?


----------



## monkies (Jun 10, 2007)

*05 AM1 ETA chamber clink*

Hi,

I recently noticed that my 2005 AM1 was making a sound in the ETA chamber. Basically, if I shake the fork, there's a clicking noise like something is in the leg loose...sounds like it's in the ETA side, right where the stanchion and leg connect. The ETA still works (can adjust travel), and the TST still works as well (goes thru all 5 settings fine). The weird thing that I noticed is when the air is removed from the TST chamber, the sound disappears. Any ideas?

Note: I originally thought it was the headset knocking, but removed the fork and brakes altogether and it is in the fork.

I wish I had a job because it is an old fork, maybe it's time for an upgrade to this puppy even though it has lasted years with only 1 time in the shop so far!


----------



## darkzeon (Jun 15, 2006)

darkzeon said:


> We just changed the oil on my friends 03 Z1 because the fork felt stiff after going half of it's travel. After removing all the oil, spring, the fork get's stuck fully bottomed when you cycle the fork. This is without spring, oil. It seems the fork is only using 2-3 inches of travel, it's like there's an auto stopper/bottom out after 3"?
> 
> Could this be a case of twisted lowers,uppers, bushing problems maybe? What do you think?


Ok I'm here to answer my own question, since Zoke tech has none.

My friend and I found out on why the fork was very hard to compress thru its travel. The problems seems to be inside the lowers (below the seals, middle level), it gets really sticky on that part, so we decided to "polish" the area with fine sand paper. After some careful polishing we cleaned the lowers, put grease on seals then put the stanchions back...the fork cycled thru its travel smoothly!!! Fork felt Plush again!


----------



## Ride On (May 23, 2005)

monkies said:


> Hi,
> 
> I recently noticed that my 2005 AM1 was making a sound in the ETA chamber. Basically, if I shake the fork, there's a clicking noise like something is in the leg loose...sounds like it's in the ETA side, right where the stanchion and leg connect. The ETA still works (can adjust travel), and the TST still works as well (goes thru all 5 settings fine). The weird thing that I noticed is when the air is removed from the TST chamber, the sound disappears. Any ideas?
> 
> ...


 Chances are, by what you are describing it's the spring in the eta side. Very common. Open it up, turn the spring a bit, close it up, and try it. Might take a few attemps to get it quiet. If there's any amount of slop between the top cap and spring, you can fit a washer or simular spacer in there to make up the amount of play. Ride On.


----------



## RobOpel (Sep 29, 2008)

*mx pro leaking oil*

So I just got an 06 mx pro eta/tas and after I adjusted the tas (lowered the fork) it has been leaking steadily from the tas adjustment area. The rate has been about a drop/hour. 
Should I be worried about this and if so what would the fix be?

Thanks

Rob


----------



## harnahud (Mar 31, 2009)

it is a second message!!!!

HELLO FROM FRANCE!
I can't find specifications for my MARZOCCHI 55 ETA 2008!
I would like to know how much pressure in the ETA cartridge for 85 kg(187 LBS),?
Thank you very much for your help!
Sorry for me level in english!!!


----------



## konastinky07 (Apr 3, 2009)

Yo marzocchi!

Just bought a new Marzocchi 888 ATA WC 2008 fork!!

Got it after i blew out my drop off tripl's twice, but anyhow, it's only a starter fork 

It's not on my bike yet as i need a direct mount stem and a brake mount, but they look SUPER burley and awsome!

Now, as i'm small (95 pounds in weight) will i have to get it tuned or should i just run the compresion and vol adj at min?


----------



## heckleroller (Apr 7, 2009)

*2003 and 2004 Super T Springs*

Hi there,

I have a hard time looking for heavy or xx heavy springs for my 2003 and my 2004 Super T's. Do you know where I can find them?

Also, do these forks have different length springs on each leg? What colors would the heaviest and second heavies spring be in? I found this info on Jensonusa.com and I am curious if it's correct:

Marzocchi Springs 100mmX-Firm 03-04 Super T, Jr. T Forks, 170mm Travel (One 100mm, one 130mm Spring per Leg)

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ZZ304B15-Marzocchi+Spring+Kits.aspx

Thanks a ton!


----------



## Karlis (Dec 30, 2008)

*problem inserting Enduro upper seal*

I removed the original upper seal for my fork and I wanted to replace ot with the Enduro one,but the Enduro seal isnt "sitting" right.
When inserting original seal I need to put some pressure to it to insert ,but Enduro one is just sliding in and out,so when decompress the fork the seals move up with stanchions.
Had anybody got this kind of problem too?Any help?Maybe superglue/ductape can help?


----------



## tilk (Feb 19, 2008)

My friend has a gran fondo rc and has a problem keeping air in it. when he pumps it up and tries to remove the pump all the air leaks out . he tried his pump and mine which i know works fine. is there a special tip that is required for that shock, I have an mx pro lo and no problems pumpin it up.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Nick_M2R said:


> Hi Tom
> 
> My mate has a special kona cowan edition DJ2 in which the rebound cartridge died on him a while ago. He somehow managed to completely dissassemble the fork (Dont ask me how he managed, he's flat out turning a wrench!). After doing this he gave everything to me and asked me to get it sorted.
> 
> ...


Hello,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Best thing is to get a new cartridge, the hole drilled in the cartridge doesn't work that great. It works sometimes and others don't I have no idea why. SO best bet is a new cartridge.

As far as getting the fork back together, the stanchion with the different diameter at the bottom is the pumping rod side. Just take the rubber bumper off the compression rod and drop it in the top of the stanchion. That's it. The cartridge goes in the striaght side. 
oil hieght on the spring side 45mm max from the top fully compressed pring removed. The Rebound cartridge side get grease on the bushing only, no oil.

cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tilk said:


> I have an MX pro lo that came with the bike and would like to replace it with something lighter. I'v looked at fox f100 and sid team 100mm .. is there anything similar from Marzocchi that I can get. I'v had no troubles with my current fork and would like to stay with the brand.


We have a 44 TST2 120mm that could be reduced to 100mm. Nice fork, very compairable to the MX LO.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

kuba.st said:


> Hello!
> I've got 07 888rc2x wc  I made a service few days ago and from that time got a problem with my rebound.
> When I put the spring normaly and try to deflect the fork the spring stops at one place and than it shoots out. I don't know maybe there's something wrong with my cartridge?
> I have opened it another time and moved the spring a little bit. The noise stopped.
> ...


humm, I am not sure whats going on with it from your discription. Is it a click? Does the fork return to the top of the stroke if you take all the weight off of it? Try PM'ing me and I will trouble shoot this with you a little more.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

harnahud said:


> HELLO FROM FRANCE!
> I can't find specifications for my MARZOCCHI 55 ETA 2008!
> I would like to know how much pressure in the ETA cartridge for 85 kg(187 LBS),?
> Thank you very much for your help!
> Sorry for me level in english!!!


Greeting from So. Cal. USA!!! 

As far as air pressures go you need to set-up your sag. For a 160mm fork the sag should be between 35-45mm once you sit or better yet stand on the bike in the "ready" position. I would guess and say about 30-35psi would work good but make sure you check the sag.

I hope this helps,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

harnahud said:


> Italy is not so far.......!!!!!!!!


Italy wrote the owners manual, 

We have a saying here in the US....Designed in Italy, built in Taiwan, repaired and dialed in the USA!! Just kidding around but sometimes I think it's true.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Ride On said:


> Chances are, by what you are describing it's the spring in the eta side. Very common. Open it up, turn the spring a bit, close it up, and try it. Might take a few attemps to get it quiet. If there's any amount of slop between the top cap and spring, you can fit a washer or simular spacer in there to make up the amount of play. Ride On.


Probably not that easy, thanks for trying though.

Most likely the TST needs to be rebuilt and the oil changed. Have you ever serviced the fork? The clicking is the rebound piston clicking due to broken down oil and or air in the damper.

MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

RobOpel said:


> So I just got an 06 mx pro eta/tas and after I adjusted the tas (lowered the fork) it has been leaking steadily from the tas adjustment area. The rate has been about a drop/hour.
> Should I be worried about this and if so what would the fix be?
> 
> Thanks
> ...


Well I would first check to make sure the footnut is tight. Adjusting the TAS might have loosened the footnut. If it's tight, then the TAS internal o-ring has given up. This is hard to change and I don't even think it's possible. Check the footnut and we can go from there.

MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

konastinky07 said:


> Yo marzocchi!
> 
> Just bought a new Marzocchi 888 ATA WC 2008 fork!!
> 
> ...


"Normaly" the oil hieght is set at the low setting so you should be OK and just set-up your air spring. 95# huh? I would try setting your PAR at 110psi and the top air pressure at around 30psi maybe 25psi. Volume adjust at minimum and the compression at minimum.

Let us know if it works for you,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

heckleroller said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I have a hard time looking for heavy or xx heavy springs for my 2003 and my 2004 Super T's. Do you know where I can find them?
> 
> ...


I have two part numbers for you. 5141280/c (6.0kg 130mm x heavy) and 5141281/c. (11kg 100mm xx heavy). We have both in stock here. Oh and yes each side of the fork takes two different springs. 
Cheers,
MTD Tom
P.S. If you want to order them direct you have to be a shop or have a shop order it.


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

Karlis said:


> I removed the original upper seal for my fork and I wanted to replace ot with the Enduro one,but the Enduro seal isnt "sitting" right.
> When inserting original seal I need to put some pressure to it to insert ,but Enduro one is just sliding in and out,so when decompress the fork the seals move up with stanchions.
> Had anybody got this kind of problem too?Any help?Maybe superglue/ductape can help?


My only recommendation is NOT to use Enduro seals. Sorry but that's all I've got. 
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

tilk said:


> My friend has a gran fondo rc and has a problem keeping air in it. when he pumps it up and tries to remove the pump all the air leaks out . he tried his pump and mine which i know works fine. is there a special tip that is required for that shock, I have an mx pro lo and no problems pumpin it up.


No special adapter needed for that fork. I would get a valve core removal tool an take the valve core out and make sure it's good. I bet you it's messed up or as dirt in it. 
I hope this helps,
Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## HigherG (Mar 17, 2008)

Tom, 

TST adjuster assembly on the top of the leg of my 2008 XC 700 ATA has come apart while I was riding... I found out on the way back, and only found the red adjuster ring with the knob... but the golden cap and also plastic 3-ray star shaped spacer (or is it circlip?) from inside the leg right under the adjuster are gone... is it possible to get spare replacement kit for this, and also were there any other parts that were lost? The fork's riding great, is just I have to stop each time to adjust the TST.

Thanks for help!
Greg


----------



## sx55 (Apr 9, 2009)

posible to order new uppers including a new steerer tube installed? and how much would it cost in cad?


----------



## rogue (Apr 5, 2004)

Hi Tom
While I was downhilling I lost the red mechanical preload knob (and screw/ball bearing) from my 2009 888 RC3 WC. I've had a look around online and cannot find one anywhere.
Do you have any ideas where I can get one?
Best Regards
Rogue


----------



## turbodog (Feb 28, 2004)

Tom.....did you see my PM's? Just need to know if you have bleed instructions for a Roco Air TST R, or if I should send it in for a bleed. Thanks!


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

JimZinVT said:


> Greetings, Tom. I admire your ability to answer these constant questions and and maintain a cool head (mostly ;-) I'm in the retail ski business and deal with warranty issues every day, mostly "pilot errors" that should not be covered. Sorry but here's another question for you....hopefully a simple one since I have no problems yet.
> 
> I sent in a '07 XC 600 fork that apparently needed $265 of service (more than I paid new from jenson ~1 year ago). As an alternative they offered me an upgrade to the '09 44 ATA fork for a similar price, so I ordered it up last night. I'm hoping you can provide me with (or point me to) set-up info, oil levels, and maintenance procedures for it, so I can stay on top things and not bother you later  I looked at the user manual on line last night, and it uses a lot of words to say very little :-( Half of it is lawyers warnings.
> 
> ...


Hi JZ,
I am doing this stuff mainly due to the manuals we "produce". If we could convince our lawyers that this is not a liability to offer this info then it would be a lot less of a head ache on my side of things. But I am here doing what I can.

As far as your ATA fork, you will have a nice light fork when that arrives. It will have ATA2 (one air valve on the bottom). Pressure range for a 180 lb agressive ride is roughly 120-125psi. I am 200# and ride agressive. I like my fork a little more plush so I run 125psi as well.

The TST micro is simple enough, rebound is rider perference and located on the bottom of the left leg. The compression adjuster has two knobs, the small gold knob will give you a "level" of lock-out depending on if you have it closed (clock-wise) or more open. If you ruin it more in the open position you will find the lock-out is not as effective but then you have a useable compression feature. I personally like a lock-out so I run the gold knob in the closed position and just row the red knob back and forth to adjust for the terrain I am encountering.

As far as service and or changing oils, since the fork has two closed cartridges in it there is only a maximum of 50cc's of lubrication oil on both sides of the fork. The ATA cartridge get a few drops (2cc's) of oil inside it and the TST micro is an internall bladder design which takes a little more effort to rebleed if needed.

We say after 100 hours of use you should service all oils in the fork. You can go longer as most people do. 

I hope this helps you out. I will try to do a write up on serivcing a TST micro. I will be at the Soggy Otter next week but hopefully soon after I will have some time to do a few how to write ups with photos.

Cheers,
MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

turbodog said:


> Tom.....did you see my PM's? Just need to know if you have bleed instructions for a Roco Air TST R, or if I should send it in for a bleed. Thanks!


It would be really hard to just burp the air out via a bench bleed. It would be in your best interest to send it in for a rebleed.

MTD Tom


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

sx55 said:


> posible to order new uppers including a new steerer tube installed? and how much would it cost in cad?


We only sell parts to dealers. Give us a call for a quote, 661-257-6630.


----------



## turbodog (Feb 28, 2004)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> It would be really hard to just burp the air out via a bench bleed. It would be in your best interest to send it in for a rebleed.
> 
> MTD Tom


Thanks!!! Will call in and set it up.


----------



## oldskoolbiker (Jun 2, 2005)

*Questions about MX Pro LO*

Dear Marzocchi Tech Support,

**I tried to search on MTBR but resulted in no matches, if there is a thread which already answers this just point me to that***

I just bought a 2008 MX Pro LO (100mm) version. I have a couple of questions.

1) Can this fork be converted to 120mm without new parts (if it's just spacers I can probably make those)

2) Where is the technical manual to this fork which shows how to disassemble and change oil etc. I went to the "Technical manuals" area on the Marzocchi website but the only document there was a 14 page generic owners manual which didn't have any technical details.

3) If there is no technical manual available, at least tell me the proper way to remove the LO lever. I suspect that it should just pop off, but I didn't want to try to force anything.

Thank You.


----------



## harnahud (Mar 31, 2009)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Italy wrote the owners manual,
> 
> We have a saying here in the US....Designed in Italy, built in Taiwan, repaired and dialed in the USA!! Just kidding around but sometimes I think it's true.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU !
I WILL TRY TO ADJUST THIS!!!!!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR RESPONSE!


----------



## thecrackerasscracker (Jan 12, 2008)

I just got a 09 66rcv what springs would be good for me i weight 250 wtih gear
will the factory springs be enough? where do i get other springs

thanks


----------



## ruralrider528 (Nov 8, 2008)

Hello, I just mounted my 09 roco wc on my bike today and when I took it for its first ride there was a slight clunk when it compresses. It is around 40 to 50 degrees out and the short downhill runs are only about 30 seconds of riding so the oil doesn't have the chance to warm up. I am thinking when the shock gets some good riding time on it and the valving wears in then the clunking should stop right? Or is there something wrong with it (the adjustments feel good)? I am almost completely sure that the clunking is coming from inside the shock body and NOT the bushings. Any insight will be greatly appreciated because this sound is going to drive me crazy!!!


----------



## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

*re: '09 44 ATA*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> As far as service and or changing oils, since the fork has two closed cartridges in it there is only a maximum of 50cc's of lubrication oil on both sides of the fork.


Thanks Tom. Can that be checked with a "dipstick" measurement in mm below the stanchion top?

JZ


----------



## Coldat (Dec 12, 2008)

Hello from Russia))
I've got a 66rc2eta 07 fork. May dirt-jumping with eta-turned on damage the fork? 
Big thx)


----------



## Mountain_Rocker (Apr 4, 2009)

hello! the bike i ordered came with a Marzocchi 55R 160mm/20mm. is this adjustable?


----------



## JOwens14 (Jul 9, 2007)

*2007 Xc 600 Sl*

Hey guys,
Was running my xc 600 sl for not too long before the rebound stopped working. Shortly thereafter, oil started coming out of the top of the right leg. I took it to the local shop (who I've had mixed results with) and without opening it, they said I would likely have to replace the TST2 cartridge. Assuming they're correct, is there a way I can do this myself cheaper (they're charging me close to $100) or a place I can buy the TST2 myself? Also, does their diagnosis seem accurate?

Thanks


----------



## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

*08 and 09 4x wc what's the difference??*

what are the differences between the 08 and 09 Marzocchi 4x wc? 
With the 08 wc how much air goes in each leg? Are they both positive air cartridges or is one preload and the rc3 positive air. if I put the recommended amount of air for the preload (rt) leg, according to the manual, the fork is too soft and drops in travel. This leads me to believe both sides are positive air on the 08.
the manual is really not clear but the instructions for the 09 are much clearer


----------



## Magick Mountain (Mar 23, 2006)

*2009 66 ATA: Valve under RC3 knob(left leg)???*

What do I do with this valve? I find conflicting information in the Marzocchi docs.

Also, any general setup tips for this fork?

I ride aggressive trail, light freeride, and downhill and weigh circa 185 fully armored.

TIA for any advice!

-MM


----------



## triplex (Aug 3, 2008)

*Service ROCO 3PL*

Hi guys,

I ride on a Nicolai Helius Fr on which I put a ROCO 3PL, I am very happy with this rear shock, but the rebound is locked, I can't turn it... :madmax:

So I would like to disassemble it, and I found this link http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/rear shocks/MY2008_ROCO_3PL_200x57.pdf :thumbsup:

But I need more information, like a tutorial with some picture and explications... :skep:

Does anybody deed it before ?

thanks a lot :thumbsup:


----------



## RobOpel (Sep 29, 2008)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Well I would first check to make sure the footnut is tight. Adjusting the TAS might have loosened the footnut. If it's tight, then the TAS internal o-ring has given up. This is hard to change and I don't even think it's possible. Check the footnut and we can go from there.
> 
> MTD Tom


Thanks Tom
The footnut was loose, I tightened it and the leak seems to have gone away.


----------



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

*Mtd*

I was wondering if there were any replacement springs for the 55 RC3?

I've heard the stock spring is super soft, forcing heavier riders to add a lot of air, which is not good for performance. I rode a 66 rc2x for a while and never liked having to add air, because the preloading would be too stiff. My 66 rc3 is pure tits, with a good spring weight for my 190lb+ ass. No air needed for mine, just a bit of mech preload.

So, I wanted to know if in deed the spring is soft in the 55 rc3 like I hear, and is there an option for a stiffer spring?

55 rc3 has been a dream fork of mine for a while, but if I can't ride it without air, then no sale.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Hi tom

Im planning on purchasing a 2009 Dirt jumper 1 for an upcoming build

Then i got to thinking

Is it possible to put the 4x WC RC3 cart into DJ 1 inplace of the R cart?

How much does a 4X WC RC3 cart retail for?

Hopefully it can be done, as i LOVE the RC3 Dampner cart
How come you guys took away the RCV damping for the 08/09 DJ1 that was present on the 07?

Im sorry but the R cart is vile

Anyway, id like to know if it is possible to put the 4x RC3 cart into a DJ1 inplace of the R cart, cause arnt the lowers the same?
Also how much does a 4X RC3 cart retail for, preferable in Aussie dollars

Cheers!

Also gonna take the time to say that the 09 66 RC3 i got as a warrenty replacement for 2 crappy 08 RCv's is bloody insane! No problems with it what so ever! And RC3 is the best damping!


----------



## Fuzz541 (Jul 27, 2006)

I searched "EXR" and found no results, so here goes.

My friend has a 2004 Big Hit SPEC with an EXR Pro 120mm. Only it's now about 80mm at best.

Any thoughts before I tear into this thing?


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Fuzz541 said:


> I searched "EXR" and found no results, so here goes.
> 
> My friend has a 2004 Big Hit SPEC with an EXR Pro 120mm. Only it's now about 80mm at best.
> 
> Any thoughts before I tear into this thing?


Is this the fork: 2004 EXR PRO COIL: http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailSPAForksMTB.asp?IDFolder=113&LN=UK&Sito=mtb&IDOggetto=8013#details


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

oh, and one more thing tom
on the 09 DJ1 is it possible to remove the spring and run it as a air fork? if it can what would be the PSI range?
Cheers


----------



## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

Nick_M2R said:


> oh, and one more thing tom
> on the 09 DJ1 is it possible to remove the spring and run it as a air fork? if it can what would be the PSI range?
> Cheers


why would you want to do that? it won't be as stiff. I had an 07 66 rc2 that I removed the rebound spring because it was too stiff, added extra oil and ran it with 10 pumps of air in each leg and it was the best better then my 888s. it was plush and did not bottom out on the big drops. I sold it and bought an 08 66 rc3 but was out all last season with injuries so i have no time on it to really see how it is.
I also just bought an 08 4x wc brand new for a god price for muy dj/urban ss but think i am going to sell it for a 318 or 409 Argyle.


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

quickneonrt said:


> why would you want to do that? it won't be as stiff. I had an 07 66 rc2 that I removed the rebound spring because it was too stiff, added extra oil and ran it with 10 pumps of air in each leg and it was the best better then my 888s. it was plush and did not bottom out on the big drops. I sold it and bought an 08 66 rc3 but was out all last season with injuries so i have no time on it to really see how it is.
> I also just bought an 08 4x wc brand new for a god price for muy dj/urban ss but think i am going to sell it for a 318 or 409 Argyle.


Mate i was only curious, because by doing the changes i may be able to turn the DJ1's into 4X WC, and it'll be much cheaper


----------



## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Tom,

How to remove the springs from the cartridge on an RC2X? Any way to do it without removing the cartridge from the fork entirely? On the previous '05 888's I seem to remember there being some wrench flats near the top of the spring on the cartridge rod. Not seeing anything obvious on this fork.

240 mL per leg is the recommendation on the website. I'm seeing numbers all over the place in some of the tuning threads, typically lower (190 mL on up to 240 mL). Is 240 mL a realistic baseline?

Thanks!


----------



## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

Nick_M2R said:


> Mate i was only curious, because by doing the changes i may be able to turn the DJ1's into 4X WC, and it'll be much cheaper


do yourself a favor sell the dj and buy an Argyle 318 or 409. the 4x wc is only good for racing. I don't find it to be that good of a fork I'm selling my 08 and buying an Argyle. I have a pike u-turn 426 on my ds bike and i like it better. I have also ridden my friends bikes with Argyles on them and they are a much better feeling for for dj/urban/park


----------



## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

DHidiot said:


> Tom,
> 
> How to remove the springs from the cartridge on an RC2X? Any way to do it without removing the cartridge from the fork entirely? On the previous '05 888's I seem to remember there being some wrench flats near the top of the spring on the cartridge rod. Not seeing anything obvious on this fork.
> 
> ...


the fork i was talking about is the 06 66rcx2 not the 888. The rebound spring comes right out on the 66, add oil to the top just below the threads for the top cap and air to your liking and it is very plush. the 06 66 was very stiff from the factory


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## Fuzz541 (Jul 27, 2006)

cobba said:


> Is this the fork: 2004 EXR PRO COIL: http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailSPAForksMTB.asp?IDFolder=113&LN=UK&Sito=mtb&IDOggetto=8013#details


Nope. It's the air model. I printed out the manual, but I wondered if anyone has any tricks up their sleeves for working on these models?

Thanks.


----------



## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

quickneonrt said:


> do yourself a favor sell the dj and buy an Argyle 318 or 409. the 4x wc is only good for racing. I don't find it to be that good of a fork I'm selling my 08 and buying an Argyle. I have a pike u-turn 426 on my ds bike and i like it better. I have also ridden my friends bikes with Argyles on them and they are a much better feeling for for dj/urban/park


Mate sorry im gonna disagree with you, ive ridden both the 4X WC and the Argyle 318. IMO RC3 Dampening blows motion control out of the water.

Tell you what though, after reading how for 2010 Marzocchi is gonna be using Ti springs in most of their top models, and seeing the sneak peak pic of the new Dirt Jumper, ill prob buy a argyle cause i can get it cheaper, then when the 2010 Forks come out ill sell em and buy the 2010 Dirt Jumpers

Lighter, stronger and more reliable Dirt Jumper with RC3 and Ti springs?
Argyle anit got nothing on that :thumbsup:


----------



## benronpro (Nov 11, 2008)

Nick_M2R said:


> :lol:
> 
> haha mate you anit gonna get squat
> 
> I lost a total of 7 months riding and over $300 in postage and having to F%ck round with marz and their retarded original aussie dealer Groupe sportiff ti get my 08 66 rcv probelms sorted. Went through 2 INSPECTED AND CERTIFIED DEFECT FREE (BULL!!!) replacement forks. Now im on a 09 RC3 and if it fails, im going to consumer affairs to see if they can do anything


I hear you there!!


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## quickneonrt (Nov 11, 2004)

Nick_M2R said:


> Mate sorry im gonna disagree with you, ive ridden both the 4X WC and the Argyle 318. IMO RC3 Dampening blows motion control out of the water.
> 
> Tell you what though, after reading how for 2010 Marzocchi is gonna be using Ti springs in most of their top models, and seeing the sneak peak pic of the new Dirt Jumper, ill prob buy a argyle cause i can get it cheaper, then when the 2010 Forks come out ill sell em and buy the 2010 Dirt Jumpers
> 
> ...


where did you find info on the 2010 marzocchi forks. I have always used Marz over everything just think the pike and argle for their intended uses beats anything marz had for 08-09


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

quickneonrt said:


> the fork i was talking about is the 06 66rcx2 not the 888. The rebound spring comes right out on the 66, add oil to the top just below the threads for the top cap and air to your liking and it is very plush. the 06 66 was very stiff from the factory


Sorry but what are you talking about? I was asking a general question to Tom (MTD). Was not aware of anything you had previously posted. I believe the 66 and 888 have slightly different spring configs anyway, but I could be wrong. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the spring from the damper rod to cycle all the oil out of the damper.


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

quickneonrt said:


> where did you find info on the 2010 marzocchi forks. I have always used Marz over everything just think the pike and argle for their intended uses beats anything marz had for 08-09


On the DH/FR forum, theres a thread there


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## Groggy-rider (Oct 24, 2008)

*888 ata worlcup sticks!*

Hi Tom

I recently bought a 888 ATA worldcup which is back from warranty with new lowers and internals. my problem is that it often sticks to 7 inches of travel when I'm riding or even when I walk up beside my bike. If I don't pull to get back the full travel (and I feel it unsticking inside when it get back to 8 inches ) well it will continue to go down until 4 inches and I have to wait until it starts going up and then I still have to pull on the crowns to get its full travel.

IT 's weird! I doubt it could be the RC3 side. Could there be wrong oil inside? like I thought about filling it with 5w oil or even 2.5w because the rebound is set to the fastest and it's not that fast.

Help me mr.marzocchi, I can open it with an expecerienced bike mechanic, I have the exploded view of it.


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Hi tom
If possible could iplease have the oil levels for a 2007 Drop off triple? (The dual crown version)

Cheers!


(Woot!! 1000th post!, ok nerdism over)


----------



## bkchef2000 (Apr 23, 2009)

Hey, I have recently picked up a 08 55r and it is going through the whole lockup bit, I know I can get a new Rebound Cart. But is there any validity to the concept of converting the cartridge into a "open design" without the nitrogen and strictly relying on the oil to control the rebound? I have read about it in several places and it seems to make sense but then again, it does not. Let me know as when I called the tech guys in CA I got no answers and all I heard was take it to the shop, send it in. Not a real technical answer from a "tech."


----------



## ritch_trialsuk (Apr 26, 2009)

*new 55 08 eta knocking - help!*

Hi guys

Finally got my bike all setup with a new set of 55 08 ETAs after a big crash bent my old 55 ETAs. Much too my dismay they are making a real nasty knocking noise while riding over small bumps. There's also a really loud top out clank when compressing the fork then pulling up into a manual. At first I thought it must be a problem with the new Hope headset but this was elliminated as when the ETA is engaged and the fork held in compression the noise is completely gone.

My old 55's were nothing like this and were super smooth right out of the box. I took it back to the bikeshop and they said Marz have some build quality issues and I just got really unlucky

Has anyone had or heard of similar experiences? Is there anything I can do before I send these forks back?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

Ritch


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## uofabill (Aug 5, 2003)

Where can I get an exploded view of a '09 44 ATA Micro?
Thanks


----------



## mtfuji (Apr 1, 2009)

*TST2 doesnt work*

TST2 doesnt work anymore

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi there,

from my XC700 with TST2 and ETA (model 2007), the TST2 doesnt lock anymore.

First I noticed that I could turn the TST2 knob a little more than usual, and that it sometimes did not lock. Now I can turn it more than 3/4 of a turn but it doesnt lock at all anymore.

This is after 6 months of riding and I only use the TST2 on the pavement, on the trail I use always ETA.

Can I simply solve this by myself?

Thx a lot.
Arno


----------



## JoeDesperado (Feb 5, 2006)

*Roco air tst*

is there any possibility to get around the massive progression of the roco air tst (2008)? I can't use the last 5mm of the shock stroke, that's pretty annoying...and I really don't want to send the shock to push just to get it work like it should have initially. 
thanks for your help


----------



## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

*Shorten/lower Junior T?*

Hi There,
I'm wondering whats the best way to shorten a Marzocchi Junior-T?

Currently it's 170mm. I'm using it on the front of a Ventana tandem and it's just too tall. I have added an additional top-out spring, but that is not doing the job. I would like to bring it down to at most 150mm and maybe 130 or 140mm.

The idea of a bunch of extra top-out springs doesn't sit well with me as (I believe) they would be essentially rattling around in there when the fork isn't topped out. Also, as I have some stiff springs in there, augmented by some air preload the top out springs may be too soft.

Is there a spacer I can fit to shorten? Is there a kit for this, or recommended parts?

Thanks
Charlie


----------



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

It's riding season again. I don't think any of us will be hearing much back from MTD any time soon. 

It was nice of them of offer something, but I don't think they can address everyone in here all the time. If it's an immediate issue, call them.


----------



## nadinno78 (Mar 23, 2006)

I wonder if he's having trouble getting into the thread. I know I was:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=513570

Seems like the post count has slowed down and nothing from mtd past #1000.


----------



## THEbeber (Dec 8, 2007)

*set my new 888 RC3 WC for my V10*

hello 
i'm french so it's a bit hard to understand everything on this nice forum, 
but i've got the new marzocchi fabulous 888 RC3 WC 2008, and can you help me to tell me about settings properly which part buttons are made for?
so when i'm sitting on the bike (V10.....ouch! yeah), on the top left i have the RC3 button red and the black button ...
so i think that the black button is for the rebound, i'm sure for that.but the red? it sets what?
-and on the bottom left the "compression" red knob is it for high and low speed? it influate for what during the ride?
-and on the top right i can read on the red knob "mech preload" ???
can you explain to me that please?
many thanks, and if you speak french it will be lovely.
my weight is 81 kg so if i can compare on yours (your settings)....
thx


----------



## Godspeed MTB (May 4, 2009)

Hello MTD Tom,

I bought a Marathon Corsa SL WC 2008 80mm and I have it set up for <65kg following the manual! PAR 132psi - SFA 103 psi

With this setup the travel goes to max 50 mm! TST turned is completely open (to the left), Rebound is turned 3 clicks to +.

My weight is 52 kg!
Can I go under above setting? If yes, what are the setting I can use and do I have to change the pressure in summer/winter?? Can you send me a more detailed table then the manual shows?

Thanks in advance for your answer!

Kind regards

Mano


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

nadinno78 said:


> I wonder if he's having trouble getting into the thread. I know I was:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=513570
> 
> Seems like the post count has slowed down and nothing from mtd past #1000.


Yeah, I was having trouble access the thread. I've posted my question here, but, as someone else suggested no more support as it's riding season.........????


----------



## tonyvaldavid (Aug 14, 2007)

*tst2 again and rebound adjuster*

I was on my 4th proper ride with my 08 55 tst2 after having sent it to Mzchi to replace the tst2, went to lock it out on a flat road section and nothing happened the fork continued, maybe a litlle slower, to use its travel. after my initial disappointment having really only just receiving it back and contemplating throwing it in the nearest bin i decided to have a closer look. I discovered that on top of the tst2 not working my rebound control knob was no longer working and seemed loose and the sound i had been hearing for a few minutes was oil squelching out the loose rebound knob when I cycled the fork... I gave up rugby and wakeboarding and god knows what to have a good riding season and to be sure not to be injured to have this thing break on me again.
what are my options? send to to mzchi again?what wil they replace the bits with this time? any suggestions? 
I loved so much my Z150fr sl, 4 seasons, never a problem...i want to stay with mzchi and not bag it but it is getting difficult. I cant even remember what i am asking. How do i fix this thing?
signed
xtremly disappointed


----------



## Marzocchi Tech Department (Mar 31, 2008)

nadinno78 said:


> I wonder if he's having trouble getting into the thread. I know I was:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=513570
> 
> Seems like the post count has slowed down and nothing from mtd past #1000.


This was the exact problem I was having along with being extremely busy with other stuff. And riding is all time right now . I will do my best to sift through here in the next few days and try to answer some of your questions. It is a bit overwhelming but I want to help. 
Best thing for me here is to send me a Personal Message. Those are easy to manage.

Have a great day,

Tom MTD


----------



## jaulomero (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello Tom (MTD):
One question about my '08 55 ATA fork.
Do you know if 2007 35 mm bushings from marzocchi (the long ones) could fit in a 2008 55 fork?
I know that 55 forks has redesigned bushes for its 35 mm stanchions. 
I would like to get the '07 66 series smooth travel on my 55 "sticky/crispy" fork and I think that this could be a solution.
My fork has gone to technical service here in Spain for two times. But my fork and all 08' 55 forks on my group has the same "sticky taste".
I also think that perhaps the microTST cartridge on it's open position doesn't free completely the fork. Could a lighter oil (SAE 5) into the TST help for this?
Other thing, tha ATA cartridge has two piston and one more seal to get the 3 chambers. I feel the fork too progressive and is almost impossible to reach complete travel. I think that if I suppress the lower piston, leaving only one positive chamber, the friction on the for will reduce and will have a smooth work. Also, if I supress the top seal or the negative chamber, this friction will be reduced more. On this setup, the for will have only one larger positive chamber. Do you think that with this configuration the fork will have a smooth work? I know that I will loose the progressive setup.
Thanks and excuse my Egnlish.


----------



## capoeirabg (Mar 19, 2008)

Sorry for the direct question but, how many times did the marzocchi service have to change the busshings from my '08 66 RC3 so that they decide to change the entire lowers. I'm just asking if there is some official state, because last month they change my uppers and bushing play was momentaly there, righht now they are changing the second pair of bushings.


----------



## rmccully (Jul 18, 2008)

I just got word from my LBS that my XC600TST2, which Marzocchi has had for at least two weeks, will take at least another month to fix. This is a warranty repair. I'm not sure what the exact problem is, but my fork was essentially permanently locked out. It would completely lock out when the Lockout was on, and when the compression damping was fully open, would only get maybe 10mm (yes ten) out of 140mm of travel.

My LBS said there is a backlog of repairs, and/or Marzocchi is waiting on parts. This seems like an extraordinary amount of time for the repair. I asked my LBS if they had a loaner to lend me, but they don't do that. I'm here hoping to get clarification as to why the wait is so long, and also to inquire about getting a replacement from Marzocchi rather than waiting for a total of 6 weeks for repair.


----------



## snwbdrhoon (Apr 22, 2004)

on the phone with you guys right now about my 08 66 RC3, having some serious problems after riding it a few days past the break-in period. fingers crossed that you guys can help.


----------



## Jaji (Jul 1, 2004)

nm.


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## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

*need help*



Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings,
> Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need.
> 
> Our phone number for customer service is (800) 227-5579. Our local number is (661)257-6630.
> ...


Hi, I own a XC 700 ATA 100-140mm 2008 model. I´m riding it on a Specialized Pitch, my weight is 165 pounds, and I use to ride it 3 to 4 times a week. The fork has been used for about 3 months and its performance was awesome until last week when I noticed a lack of travel of 30 mm (it happened after a 30 mile XC race).

I have good mechanical skills and I´m used to perform maitenance in all my forks so I have decided to open my Marzocchi one.

I have opened the hydraulic dumper on the fork´s left leg and found oil rounding from the outside what I will call "the rubber conection" that has an venturi format. I have then removed this peace and reassembled the fork, which seems to be working properly.

Is this ok to be done? What´s the function for this "rubber conection"?

Tks!


----------



## tonyvaldavid (Aug 14, 2007)

tonyvaldavid said:


> I was on my 4th proper ride with my 08 55 tst2 after having sent it to Mzchi to replace the tst2, went to lock it out on a flat road section and nothing happened the fork continued, maybe a litlle slower, to use its travel. after my initial disappointment having really only just receiving it back and contemplating throwing it in the nearest bin i decided to have a closer look. I discovered that on top of the tst2 not working my rebound control knob was no longer working and seemed loose and the sound i had been hearing for a few minutes was oil squelching out the loose rebound knob when I cycled the fork... I gave up rugby and wakeboarding and god knows what to have a good riding season and to be sure not to be injured to have this thing break on me again.
> what are my options? send to to mzchi again?what wil they replace the bits with this time? any suggestions?
> I loved so much my Z150fr sl, 4 seasons, never a problem...i want to stay with mzchi and not bag it but it is getting difficult. I cant even remember what i am asking. How do i fix this thing?
> signed
> xtremly disappointed


yeah so not much coming out from marzocchi, sent it back again...who wants to ride their bike in the summer anyway, especially in the only dry start of summer quebec has ever seen...


----------



## Huck Banzai (May 8, 2005)

Another question - my search terms dont seem to hit it.

I have an 07 888RC2x that has seen little use. ~20 lift serviced days, no crashes, no reason to believe its damaged in that respect. Oil gets changes, fork cleaned up every 5 riding days,and this fork has never seen a rainy day or major mud.

After a recent tweak (I removed ~5ml of oil from each leg due to being about.5" short of full travel usable) - and on my quick test rides, the fork feels like its binding. If I bounce on it, it moves smoothly, but if I rest my weight on it it sags in and settles at a poin tthen doesnt want to move +/- unless it hits something or I load it real fast. Definitely not a good thing.

There is fresh oil, and I recently packed a bit of judy butter under the dust wipers.

I think it may be due to bushings? Ever since I got the fork it seemed to have a little play, and it has been suggested to me that this may have become the issue.

Any/all help appreciated! I am a very capable and successful mech, but at home dont have the exposure to some things, and def not busahing tools if it comes to that!


----------



## bayareaflip (Jun 12, 2008)

*09 55ata*

Greetings,
My first time using a marzocchi....my question is, how much air should I put in into the fork. I weight about 185 with gears. Second, what percent of sag should I have. This fork is set up with an Ibis mojo. I would really appreciate any feedback. Thanks.


----------



## Huck Banzai (May 8, 2005)

deprecated forum?


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## Bnorthro (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm going to cross post this here in hopes that I get some help:

I have a 2008 Marzocchi 66 ATA and I'm having some problems with getting full travel out of it. I weigh about 220lbs geared up. My current pressures are about 55psi in the upper chamber, 100 in the lower chamber, and a few pumps in the PAR. I've checked my oil levels and they seem to be correct.

I never bottom the fork and it's impossible for me to get the last 1.75" of travel. Today I let all the air out of the fork and compressed it, and I still couldn't get the last 1.75" or so to compress. If I remove the left fork cap, I still can't compress the fork all the way (leading me to believe the problem is in the ATA side). If I remove the right fork cap the ATA chamber extends like it is still under pressure and the fork compresses, even though I let all the air pressure out.

I've been struggling with this problem for a while now and want to know if anyone else has experienced or heard of anything similar?? For reference, I've tried running pressures lower than 55/100 and the fork just compresses up to the 1.75" mark really easily and "bottoms" at that point.

Edited to add: I don't have any problems with the actual travel adjust, I can wind it for the full range of 40mm adjustment.


----------



## mmjf9696 (Sep 30, 2008)

on my xc600 that I just got the cart serviced on the rebound is stuck. It is stuck so much that it striped the inside of the plastic knob. If you look at the cart on this fork you will see a little 5/32 bolt like thing at the bottom of the cart. This is were the rebound knob connects and it should turn to increase and decrease the rebound. Mine is stuck. Stuck so much that I took the plastic knob off and try to turn it with a 5/32 socket. That didn't work it just stripped the bolt end.. This really is not good considering it worked before I sent it to Marzocchi to get the cart fixed. Does anyone know what would cause this to stick like that?


----------



## mmjf9696 (Sep 30, 2008)

mmjf9696 said:


> on my xc600 that I just got the cart serviced on the rebound is stuck. It is stuck so much that it striped the inside of the plastic knob. If you look at the cart on this fork you will see a little 5/32 bolt like thing at the bottom of the cart. This is were the rebound knob connects and it should turn to increase and decrease the rebound. Mine is stuck. Stuck so much that I took the plastic knob off and try to turn it with a 5/32 socket. That didn't work it just stripped the bolt end.. This really is not good considering it worked before I sent it to Marzocchi to get the cart fixed. Does anyone know what would cause this to stick like that?


Ok just to reply on my post. I talked to Roger at Marzocchi today. And he is hooking me up. He knew what I was talking about right away. He even knew what would cause that. He found a replacement part and a replacement rebound cap. He also explained what I need to do to replace this part. I plan on posting photos and detail of this in case this happens to someone else. Should be about a week or so.

On that note I have to say Marzocchi's customer service is the best. Every time I call them they know the answer to my questions and are more than willing to help me out. It is so nice to call a company and get a tech person that knows about the product inside and out. That just doesn't happen anymore but at Marzocchi they seem to understand that it really makes the difference. Thanks Roger and everyone else at Marzocchi that has taken my frustrating experience and made it easy.


----------



## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Seems like Tom is out working and/or riding this time of year...haven't heard much from him here in a while. But I'll ask anyway, maybe some fellow Marz riders can answer. 

I have an '09 44 ATA fork (not the micro) with 100 - 140mm adjustable travel. Looking for basic service instructions (measuring oil levels, changing oil, and anything else that should be looked at while I'm in there, without getting too carried away) The fork is working nicely, but there seems to be a lot of initial stiction....when I first press down on it from a fully extended position. Once it's properly sagged and I'm riding it seems OK. 

As usual, the Marz manual and website has no service instructions and the oil volume chart doesn't even list the 2009 forks!  

Thanks for any clues you've got for me! I'm mechanically adept but haven't done much fork work.

JZ

(edit: Tom did supply me with an oil volume recommendation of 50cc max in each side a couple months back, but a "dipstick measurement" figure would be good to know)


----------



## gregmazo (Aug 31, 2007)

Hey Marzocchi, I just bought a 09 888 RC3, its working amazing but it is just a but too stiff for me as I like it plush for pure racing downhill. This morning, I went to every bike shop in Whistler, Canada, to find out more info about the spring. I found out it does have a 6K in it, which is suited for a 180-200 rider. Im more in the 170 and as I said, like it soft with the compression to compensate. So I now need a 5.4K spring.
The problem is marzocchi canada dont have any in stock and should receive some in 3ish weeks, which is long if you ask me.
I was wondering if I could get one of those springs somewhere in the states, marzocchi USA or whereever, as long as I have it ASAP. I want to get the maximum performance off this fork and now I cant and Im really disappointed about marzocchi to hear they dont have any in stock, no offense there, but its stupid. Im sure you agree with me on this one. Most riders out there weight less than 180.
Thanks for the answer, if you can find the spring I want, that would be great.
Greg


----------



## cikman22jp (Jun 23, 2009)

What is SAG amount for 55R ? my weight is 170lbs.


----------



## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

cikman22jp said:


> What is SAG amount for 55R ? my weight is 170lbs.


you can find the Marz tech manuals here. They sometimes have some useful information in them. For the two Marz forks I've owned I found at the recommended air pressures they were too stiff.

I'm not familiar with your fork, but in general you would start by setting the sag to 25% of the fork's travel, then increase or decrease until you like the way it rides.

JZ


----------



## cikman22jp (Jun 23, 2009)

thanks.. i'll try this weekend


----------



## cikman22jp (Jun 23, 2009)

thanks.. i'll try this weekend


----------



## bluecougar26 (Sep 6, 2008)

I tried to change the brake calipers on my Marzocchi MZ SuperComp and after removing the screws with not an excessive amount of force, the threads seem to be stripped. 

What can I do to fix it? I have not even ridden the bike once because of this. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

*AM SL Tuning help*

I can't seem to get the tuning right on my Heckler. The tuning from the manual didn't get me close enough. I PM'ed Tom with no luck. I have a 06 AM SL I run at full travel on XC trails. I would rather jump obstacles than go around. I weigh 197 geared up. What pressure should I use in the 4 chambers? I don't like to change travel because then I get the rebound knock and can't always dial it out with the rebound. This thing knocks more than a chevy Vega in a heatwave.


----------



## irish dh (Jul 8, 2009)

*Need help*

Hi, I am in the middle of rebuilding my old dh race bike and noticed the rear shock is leaking oil. Have searched the net high and low for a service guide to rebuild the shock but to no joy.

The shock in question is a marzocchi the boss ,think its 98 spec.Just wondering is it possible to get a service guide for this shock on how to dismantle and reassemble with all proper levels,correct weight oil and refilled with gas.


----------



## slowtwitch (May 30, 2004)

*Small chamber pressure*

Stupid question. New Roco TST Air (2009) installed. What is the small air chamber pressure supposed to be? I can't find it anywhere.


----------



## jazzguy (Mar 9, 2009)

Hey guys,

I hope I'm not jumping into the wrong thread, as it seems most of the questions are in regards to the higher end forks. Anyway here goes, my son has a MZ Supercomp that came on an IH Warrior, and it is quite stiff. Too stiff. He only gets about half the travel out of it. I put a zip tie on it to measure the travel and my son didn't manage 2" and I got just over 2-1/8" when I jumped on it, and I weigh 220 geared up. I think it's a 100mm fork, so it should have a little more travel. I keep waiting for it to break in, but it's been ridden extensively and hasn't loosened up.

Also, the preload adjustment doesn't seem to do much to change the situation. I have tried it full on and full off with little difference.

I know the fork isn't a high end piece, so I'm not exprecting miracles, but is there anything that can be done to soften it up and get more travel?

Cheers, Brian


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

*this is new to me...*

yeah, I'm still running mostly bolt-arch zocchis so? 

anyways I grabbed this a couple weeks ago, never seen a leak-mid-leg...
answers? how do I fix it? is it coming apart at the (bonded) seams?


----------



## one incredible donkey (Jul 19, 2007)

I have a 2005 Z1 FR3 and it's really stiff. I found a video which illustrates how to remove a spring to make it more plush: 




Is it really that easy?


----------



## byknuts (Aug 9, 2008)

*barumpbumpbump*

ok, well I'm not going to assume that a month's wait time is indicative of anything other than being busy.
(also won't assume that silence means I'm fine with riding a fork that soaks my brakes in oil)


SO: anyone other than the zocchi tech have suggestions?
I stopped paying attention to stuff right after these bonded arches popped up everywhere, so I don't know if this is a problem that was endemic to the design, or whether I've got an oddball here and should just pack the gap with epoxy or something.
Should I knock it off with a hammer and re-bond or something?
Send it off to zocchi tech support? 
I mean I bought it used so there's no warranty or anything there, but I just want a functional fork right now! 
I'm glad I was breaking in new brakes or I would've ridden it as usual, I kept thinking the front's lack of power was the new rotor, etc, turns out it was soaked on oil...


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Byknuts, if you're not under warranty, I'd guess that will cost you some change. You might want to call Marz and ask about their upgrade program. If it's a pricey repair they may offer you a new fork at a great price. I got a new 44ATA recently for not much more than the repair was going to cost, and I've heard of others getting similar deals.

JZ


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## Norcorider2 (Aug 21, 2009)

*All Mountain 4 or AM4 ??*

Can anyone tell me the difference(s) between a 2007 All Mountain 4 and an AM4 ??


----------



## vien (Sep 21, 2009)

has anyone been able to service the roco tst air r shock??


----------



## PsyCro (Jun 8, 2007)

*2006 66 Light .. dual coil conversion??*

Sooo.. i've got a 2007 Z1 RC2 ETA that has the possibility of doing a dual coil conversion. Well now, i have a 2006 66 Light coming my way. So, quick and simple.. is a dual coil conversion possible for that fork as it is for the Z1??


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## vhp4315 (Oct 6, 2008)

*rebound clicking on roco tst r*

I just took my brand new Marin Quake out for the maiden ride, has a roco tst r, and on the last ~5ft drop i took it started making a CLICKING sound on the rebound. If I adjust the rebound to the fastest or slowest setting the sound goes away, but if it is anywhere in between the clicking sound on the rebound is there.

Very annoying and disappointing as this is the first Zoke I have ever used (previous experience with FOX for years with no problem).

Anyone know what could be causing this? Pretty weak if the shock blew after a small 5 footer and on the first ride.


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## stabme (Jun 28, 2009)

dear marzocchi support,

where can i buy seals for my 07 roco wc rear shocks and how much?

TIA


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

stabme said:


> dear marzocchi support,
> 
> where can i buy seals for my 07 roco wc rear shocks and how much?
> 
> TIA


If I were looking for those, I'd call them directly and ask: (661) 257-6630


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## fuentes_88 (Jan 8, 2009)

My fork seems to have lost all travel below ATA, If I wind down the ATA the rest of the travel is basically locked up. I hate having only 40 mm of travel.
Should I check the oil levels (never checked since new), or is there any other quick fix for this?
It is a 2008 ATA Micro.


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

Hey guys, I got a new 2009 RC3 66 and it is a bit too hard for my taste. My weight is ~170lbs, I run no preload and no air in the fork and can use about 160mm of travel on the biggest stuff I am doing. No chance to get the 180. I only get 3cm of sag (which are only ~17%).
What can I do, maybe too much oil inside?
Or do I need a softer spring? I always used medium springs in my forks (RS,Fox), worked good. But maybe the 66 spring is a bit on the hard side?

Thanks!


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## 09Reign (Mar 19, 2009)

Been off my bike for the past six weeks because of the 44. Never again.:madman:


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## Zoomstag (Jan 17, 2009)

Hi all,

I need some information about ECC/ETA adjuster (for Marzocchi Z1 FR 2002).
I am interested in its dimensions (internal, external dimension).

Can anyone measure it for me, or show me a construction drawing?

link:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/75/4862.Jpg
I would like to fabricate an adjuster like this.

I will be happy for all help.
(my english isn't well, sorry)

Thanks,
Adam


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## 09Reign (Mar 19, 2009)

Marzocchi Support is gone!!:lol:


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## 09Reign (Mar 19, 2009)

They're probably off making more sexy vampire ads and not fixing all the POS broken forks sent back to them. Ha, what a friggin joke.:ciappa: Thanks Marzocchi, with all of your cool ads I guess your too cool to return customer phone calls or customer forks! Rock on coolness.:thumbsup: I look forward to your next hot girl marketing spread and leaky fork.:ihih:


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## victim (Aug 10, 2006)

Just got my 09 66 ATA back. One ride, and she's down again. I think it cost me over 30 bucks to ship it cross country. Thanks Marzocchi!!!


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## ptmbiker (Feb 21, 2009)

i have a 08 roco r world cup are they hard to rebuild? if not where can i find instructions on how to rebuild them


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## xxxlucaxxx (Nov 15, 2009)

Hi! 

i have a question for Marzocchi tech department!

I have a marathon corsa lt 08 with in one leg positive air, while in other leg i have the tst5 cartrige. I jave just make the service at the cartrige. I have 2 question, but the second one is more important:

1) the first is about the inside of cartrige...in my opinion, blow-off valvle is opening too often, when i loked out the fork (tst5 work correctly). Can i put a thickness (0,2 mm) between shims and washer? in this way, i make the shims more hard to compress...

2) the sencod question is about the mounting....if the tst5 needs a 0 psi pressure.....what happen if i mount the cartrige when the fork is compressed? obviously i stopper the shradred valvle.....when i extend the fork, it creates a negatve pressure. This negative pressure can help the sensivity at the little shock? i risk to damage the cartrige?

thanks


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## SteveUK (Apr 16, 2006)

> i have a question for Marzocchi tech department!


The tech department doesn't get on here any more, so you're probably better off getting in touch with Marzocchi directly.


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## blender (Oct 28, 2005)

big thanks to Gideon and Ronnie for taking care of me today.. this isn't the first time you've helped me out, so thanks again for your stellar and professional service!

this is exactly what keeps me riding Marzocchi products year after year.


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## Joshtp (Sep 19, 2009)

*pretty easy really, but will void warrenty*



mtfuji said:


> TST2 doesnt work anymore
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> ...


its a fairly easy damper to strip and service, but zocchi dont recomend you doing it, i dont know why mind......
there is a very clever bunch of chaps on this forum who worked out the tst2 damper, figured out a performance mod, and it explainses how to fix it.....
but basicaly all you have to do is take the cart out, open up the top, and top up the oil so that its just above the top piston when assembled, that should do it, and then make sure that the right amount of oil is in the outers before reassembling.....
here are the variouse threads, have a look....
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=4273191
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=410874
there's a bunch of links going of those two threads, check them out.....


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## adi518 (Oct 11, 2006)

Hi, I have a z1 light 2006 and I'd like to know if it's possible to change it's travel to 130/140mm down from 150mm?

Thanks.


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## emrs0414 (Apr 10, 2005)

Marzocchi Tech Department said:


> Greetings,
> Due to popular demand, or the lack of support people seem to be getting from Marzocchi, I am here to let everyone know that they can get the help they need.
> 
> Our phone number for customer service is (800) 227-5579. Our local number is (661)257-6630.
> ...


Hello. Can you provide a Technical pdf file for the 2009 4X WC here? We have no service for Marzocchi here and we'd like to do it ourselves since we have knowledge in servicing forks... cant seem to understand how to remove tghe RC3 lowers in this fork... thanks


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## madmagrider (Jan 30, 2008)

*I'll never buy another Marzocchi product*

Marzocchi honestly has the worst customer service I've ever experienced in my entire life in ANY industry. I ordered a part for my fork nearly two years ago and never received it. My calls are rarely answered, and when they are they don't help me. There's not enough people working in the USA office, and they have an "I don't care" attitude about it.

Never again Marzocchi!


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

OK so people know, this tread died ALONG time ago

Marzocchi NOLONGER checks this thread, so asking for answers from the 

WILL FALL ON DEF EARS!

of course, others may answer, but in which case start a new thread, this one is hell confusing


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## madmagrider (Jan 30, 2008)

LOL, only this thread? Marzocchi doesn't answer their damn e-mails or phone calls either. I have NEVER received a reply to an e-mail to Marzocchi in less than 10 days. NEVER. So of course I quickly learned that I need to call to get "assistance".

However, a typical phone call requires you to wait 5-10 minutes or longer before getting tech help. Usually a person has to leave a voicemail and hope to receive a return phone call. A few times I never did (at least within a reasonable timeframe before I just called back).

Oh, and by the way, do you care to tell me where my damn o-rings I ordered nearly TWO YEARS AGO are?


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

madmagrider said:


> Oh, and by the way, do you care to tell me where my damn o-rings I ordered nearly TWO YEARS AGO are?


I can understand your fustration, but a way in which you can get your o-rings, is by simply remove the ones you need replaced from the fork/shock, make note of were they go, then take them to an auto or engineering supply store that supplies o-rings, have them sized up, and there you go, buy a bulk amount for $5, and your set for the next couple of rebuilds


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

I called Marz this afternoon to check on a fork I sent in for warranty service 2.5 weeks ago (on 4/23). They answered the phone on the 2nd ring, and told me the fork was fixed and had been shipped out on Monday 4/5; should be in my hands by Monday. :thumbsup: 

JZ


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## madmagrider (Jan 30, 2008)

Nick_M2R said:


> I can understand your fustration, but a way in which you can get your o-rings, is by simply remove the ones you need replaced from the fork/shock, make note of were they go, then take them to an auto or engineering supply store that supplies o-rings, have them sized up, and there you go, buy a bulk amount for $5, and your set for the next couple of rebuilds


So in other words, don't count on Marzocchi because they suck?

I already did what you've stated (remember, this was TWO YEARS AGO). That's not the point. The point is that Marzocchi could use A LOT of customer service improvement.


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## mgrundahl (Jun 15, 2009)

Hi Tech Support!

I really hope you can help me out here! Just got a Marathon Corsa SL WC 2008 and I really can't figure out what pressures to run. I'm 82 kg and according to Marzocchi's homepage I'm supposed to have 4-6 bar in the top chamber and 7-9 bar in the bottom. 

Now I have it setup with 5 in the top and 8 in the bottom but it just doesn't feel right - it's okay in the first 1/3 of the travel but it just gets to stiff in the bottom, and the stiffness comes very suddenly 

Should I have same pressures in both chambers? I don't think I can go for lower pressure in the bottom-chamber since the fork is about 1 cm from bottoming out when I ride it...

What to do? Please help


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

I have no experience with that fork, but with 2 other marz forks I've had, the recommended pressures were way too high. Just keep dropping the pressure until it feels right. The 44tst ata blah blah blah that I'm riding now recommends 120psi.....I'm running it at about 85 I think.



mgrundahl said:


> I really hope you can help me out here! Just got a Marathon Corsa SL WC 2008 and I really can't figure out what pressures to run.....


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## Pwshadow (Sep 5, 2010)

Nick_M2R said:


> On the DH/FR forum, theres a thread there


Yeah I wouldnt look on the DH/FR forum if you want to still like marzocchi. I have been a die hard zocch fan for years and the photos on the Red Bull Rampage thread are heart breaking.


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Pwshadow said:


> Yeah I wouldnt look on the DH/FR forum if you want to still like marzocchi. I have been a die hard zocch fan for years and the photos on the Red Bull Rampage thread are heart breaking.


Those forks snapped in circumstances and conditions that they are not designed to handle, a boxxer and fox 40 would have suffered the same fate (well maybe the 40 stanchions wouldnt snap, but the the fork would be a write off)

Also to everyone else, this thread has been dead for awhile, Marzocchi tech support have not been in this thread for over a year


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## BACETO (Oct 26, 2010)

*Marzocchi Junior T 2006/adjust.rebound*

Hi, I serviced my fork by myself for first time! So I have two problems now 

Everything with the fork was alright but It wasn't maintained for more than 2 years, so I wanted to do some service. 
The oil was alright then, I decided not to fully dismantle the fork but just to change the oil. However, when I start assembling I detected that I don't have the Piston Ring (27 in my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/2006-junior-t-ext.reb.-adjustment.pdf) of the left leg, this leg which is without rebound adjustment. I decided that this is due to the fact that the rebound adjustment is on the other leg so I don't need this here. Then I saw in the manual that it should be there. So this is problem number one, Do I need this piston segment in my left leg or no. 
After I finish with the assembling I tried the fork. It seems to be not that soft as before and in the easy test drive that I did I managed to make about 3/5 of the 170 travel. So I don't know now if I had been blocked some air in the fork and because of that the fork is stiffer. I forgot to pump several times when I was filling with oil so, I think that I need to do something like 'air bleeding' now. Here it is problem number two: does anybody know how to let the air out from the fork.


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## Prostreet513 (Jul 4, 2009)

I have a Marzocchi Roco TST R Coil rear shock that came on my 08 Kona Stinky. The shock itself feels pretty good but over lighter bumps it sounds like its loose like a knocking sound. I can lift the back wheel off the ground an inch and let it drop and it does it too. It’s not loose everything is tight so I am not sure what is making the noise. I should also mention this bike was bought new just a week ago. Has anyone else ever had this?


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Prostreet513 said:


> The shock itself feels pretty good but over lighter bumps it sounds like its loose like a knocking sound.............
> 
> I should also mention this bike was bought new just a week ago.


Take it back to the shop


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## Prostreet513 (Jul 4, 2009)

Jim Z in VT said:


> Take it back to the shop


It was ordered online I did take it to a shop locally and everything was tight and working we came to the conclusion that the knock was only in the highest rebound setting and it only happens at the end of the stroke


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## gozdni (Feb 17, 2011)

Would you please tell me how can I remove compression adjustment gold-colored 
knob on my Marzocchi 888 rc3 evo (2010)


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Its held on by friction, it should pull of with abit of effort

Also this thread is long dead, no one from marzocchi checks here anymore...


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## gozdni (Feb 17, 2011)

They're leaking from the compression knob at the bottom of lowers. 
How do I fix that?


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## tondar (Feb 1, 2010)

*Z1 Light - need a spare part!!*

Ok, here's the deal:

I need a footnut and o ring for my 2006 Z1 Light ETA but I can't get it in my country because:

- the fork is US version which is different from european version and it has additionally TAS feature. I need the footnut on TAS side (pictured on photo).

- I'm from Europe and our marzocchi service center cannot deliver this part because it's not EU version!!!

Now I already wrote to the us service center to [email protected] but they didn't answer me. So i'm asking here if someone can help me, please!

Thanks!!


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I just got a used Roco TST R. Out of the box, the shock seemed ok. But when I tried to compress the shock, oil started to seep from the rebound knob. Is this a serious issue?

I'm currently in MD now, but will fly back to the Philipines in 2 weeks. Just don't want to go home with an unusable shock.

Thanks!


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## frquake7.2 (Apr 17, 2011)

has anyone ever had an issue with the 2008 Bomber 66 RCV leaking out of the compression side and some play between the bottom stanchtion and the legs?


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Nope - Not one prob...then again I have never owned a 66 RCV...:idea:


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## spou-unit (Jun 1, 2011)

I bought a pair of 2008-2009 Marzocchi Z1 Sports 160mm of a guy; said they came on his big hit.

I just noticed that I'm only getting like half the travel, apparently this is caused by something breaking inside the rebound cartridge. What do?

I read somewhere yesterday about accuratley drilling some holes in the cartridge to make it an open bath system?

Anyone?


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## verme_vsf (Dec 24, 2008)

Remove the bladder from your cartridge and it will work smothly.


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## jacksonbrowne (Aug 10, 2006)

*Marzocchi 44 Ti RC3 140mm - internally lower travel?*
Just throwing this out there...
Does anyone *know* or has done a modification on the Marzocchi 44 Ti RC3 140mm fork to internally adjust the travel?
Many forks have some kind of spacer arrangement inside that can be positioned in such a way as to reduce travel (say, by 20mm, 40mm etc). Was wondering whether this might also be possible on this fork too.
Thanks in advance,
Rod

(I realise this thread is no longer directly 'serviced' (so to speak) by Marz Tech USA, but maybe some of you guys have an answer...)


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

jacksonbrowne said:


> *Marzocchi 44 Ti RC3 140mm - internally lower travel?*
> Just throwing this out there...
> Does anyone *know* or has done a modification on the Marzocchi 44 Ti RC3 140mm fork to internally adjust the travel?
> Many forks have some kind of spacer arrangement inside that can be positioned in such a way as to reduce travel (say, by 20mm, 40mm etc). Was wondering whether this might also be possible on this fork too.
> ...


Is the RC3 a coil or air fork?

I'm looking to change the travel on my 44 micro ti from 140mm to 100mm.


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## jacksonbrowne (Aug 10, 2006)

My fork (44 Ti RC3) is indeed a coil fork.

IIRC I have read somewhere about travel change on the 44 Micro Ti (air spring) fork. Perhaps it's mentioned on the early review of the 44 series forks on SoCalRiders website??

It's otherwise a brilliant fork - loving it already. If I can't drop the ride height, not the end of the world, but 120 would be spot on.

hope you find the info you need


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## fabio f (Aug 9, 2011)

Pls the level of oil to 888 rc3 wc 2009 

TKS


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## fuentes_88 (Jan 8, 2009)

You can't go wrong with the 44, it tracks like a dream
‪Compilación‬‏ - YouTube
Watch for the parts with the grey fork, the white one was a 2008 55 ATA, no way as plush as the 44


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## Teigansdad (Jul 24, 2010)

*remote set up for TST*

Any chance you can post a step by step remote set up for the TST micro. I have a corsa WC SL (2008). The website has instructions for ETA and TST remotes for 2006, and seems the ETA instructions better apply to my TST than the TST instructions. My major issue is that the round black metal cable guide that surrounds the red tst dial to stay immobile. It rotates with cable movement and doesn't move the dial much.

Also if these instructions are the best there is and the remote is just finicky then how hard would it be to change the tst red knob to one that is fork operated vs remote operated. Can you post the part number and perhaps instructions? As is now I am only the fork to about 60% capacity.

thanks
pete


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## Teigansdad (Jul 24, 2010)

Teigansdad said:


> Any chance you can post a step by step remote set up for the TST micro. I have a corsa WC SL (2008). The website has instructions for ETA and TST remotes for 2006, and seems the ETA instructions better apply to my TST than the TST instructions. My major issue is that the round black metal cable guide that surrounds the red tst dial to stay immobile. It rotates with cable movement and doesn't move the dial much.
> 
> Also if these instructions are the best there is and the remote is just finicky then how hard would it be to change the tst red knob to one that is fork operated vs remote operated. Can you post the part number and perhaps instructions? As is now I am only the fork to about 60% capacity.
> 
> ...


BTW...this fork feels amazing! Light, stiff, supple. Hard to pack all three into one fork. Bravo!:thumbsup:


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## The Prophet (Mar 22, 2005)

*Can this fork be fixed*

I have a 66 SL1-ATA I am guessing 2007 by the color scheme (black) that was given to me because he broke off the compression knob. But it still works with pliers...

Anyway the air side seems to not work right. From reading here and the manual the bottom chamber (PAR) should be about 20% less pressure than the top. But in my fork the pressures are always equal. If I put 80 PSI in the PAR there will be 80 PSI in the top. If I let all the air out of the top all the air will be out of the PAR chamber too.

I don't have a lot of money but do have enough mechanical aptitude to take this thing apart and put it back together. Are these kind of parts available to the public? If so where would I order them from?


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## jhazard (Aug 16, 2004)

The Prophet said:


> I have a 66 SL1-ATA I am guessing 2007 by the color scheme (black) that was given to me because he broke off the compression knob. But it still works with pliers...
> 
> Anyway the air side seems to not work right. From reading here and the manual the bottom chamber (PAR) should be about 20% less pressure than the top. But in my fork the pressures are always equal. If I put 80 PSI in the PAR there will be 80 PSI in the top. If I let all the air out of the top all the air will be out of the PAR chamber too.
> 
> I don't have a lot of money but do have enough mechanical aptitude to take this thing apart and put it back together. Are these kind of parts available to the public? If so where would I order them from?


You'll be lucky to find much info in the way of answers from Marz. here, I don't think they come around anymore.

That said, save yourself a headache and just remove the piston from inside the par cartridge. I have the 07 66 ATA SL1 and did it - you'll have to search for the forum for instructions though, I think user NickMR2 is the one that posted the how to. It's very easy, it was the first time I dissembled a fork, had no problems...

Good luck finding parts too. I tried to get them from Marz, but they wouldn't even entertain my questions on maintenance or compatibility with other fork models, only wanted to sell me a new one at dealer cost. Which is a good deal, but not when you need just one small part on an otherwise perfect fork.


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## scottmartin49 (Jul 29, 2007)

*trying to find some basic info...(in one place!)*

(general question) re; qr20 and its permutations- years? crossovers? brake adapters?

....Just found this venue (and you guys are great to phone for info), but the Marz website is next to useless.

(specific); magura gustav m is front 190mm to a 2003 super-t pro :madman:

Thanks in advance, Scott


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

blou43RE said:


> get in touch with us directly


are you a Marz REP?

who is 'us'?


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## emrs0414 (Apr 10, 2005)

blou43RE said:


> get in touch with us directly


are you from Marzocchi? include contact info and best way to communicate with you... thanks in advance.


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## scottmartin49 (Jul 29, 2007)

...gosh, thanks. 

Lock the thread if you're not gonna' use it!


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## futurerocker1 (Sep 16, 2009)

sorry for those of you who have already seen my post on this forum, am trying to get some knowledgeable marz people to assist me:

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/marzocchi-fork-identification-743551.html


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## murphymax (May 14, 2011)

*Question about 55 RC3 MY2009*

Hello. In doing maintenance at a 55 rc3 2009 I found a seal on the shaft of the RC3 cartridge.








This is normal? What is its function? or is out of its natural location?
Thanks if you will answer me.
Cheers
Max


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## Mudstud (Jul 7, 2006)

I've got a question for all Marocchi buffs and maestros out there:

I need the exact shock dimensions of the Roco TST R shock (2007 model) in 200x57mm sizing.

The reason: The Roco TST R fits my frame (RM Switch Tart'n 2007) ever so tightly. Now Cane Creek has offered me a Double Barrel Air for testing purposes (bike journo is my daytime job), and I need to have the exact measures of the Roco TST R in order to know if the DB Air might fit or not.

In all manuals and tech sheets that I have found so far, there's no details on the Roco TST R shock's exact dimensions.


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## Pedro (Mar 19, 2004)

*2009 or 2010 44 ti rc3 qr15 not pulling out*

I managed to unscrew the nut, and the bushing in that side came out.
The quick release wont pull out.
Any ideas of what I may try???

Just needed some tough encouragement!!! A long screwdriver and a hammer did the trick!!!
My machine-shop wheel qr15 adaptors were a bit tight.


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## joncbr (Nov 12, 2011)

Hi all, I'm looking for a detailed manual or any information about MZ 55RV 2011 so that I can make some adjustments but I know nothing about. Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## 92cherokee (Apr 5, 2012)

*2003 MX Comp*

I have a 03 MX comp that came with my Specialized Enduro. I lost some weight and haven't ridden in a few years. I want to set up and adjust my fork again. I understand the concept of sag, but I still have a few questions. My fork has good seals and doesn't leak. I had new seals put in it a couple of years ago. On the left side of the fork is the air valve and the right is the dial with a +/-. When I set up my sag should I have the dial set all the way to + or - to start out with? Do I just sit on my bike seat or rest my weight on the bars to achieve the 10-20% sag?

thanks, 
chris


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## Mattcz (May 26, 2005)

Hey There,
I have a brand new Corsa Superleggera LR that came with the remote lockout. The dust cover on the the lockout side of the fork cracked. Its pretty flimsy plastic. Also the metal bar with teeth that turns the lockout on and off stripped when I tightened the set screw on the cable. 
Everything else on the fork is awesome. It rides so nicely but that lockout seems like a poor after thought. Any way I can either replace it with a non remote lockout or with a better remote system?
Or even get a replacement cover and parts?

Thanks


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

This thread should be locked
Marzocchi support is no longer here, as stated a few posts back.
Posters with Marz questions, would be better served (IMO) in the main suspension forum.

OR at the very least have a disclaimer in the title and Original Post.
I'm sure it's misleading to people who find the thread, and go and post a Q after only seeing that and not (obviously) reading 45 pages to find out Marz support on MTBR is no more.

Last post was May 2009 - http://forums.mtbr.com/5683625-post1013.html


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## Patrick16 (May 7, 2012)

*Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 3 Bomber*

Hi there, i have no idea how to adjust these shocks (Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 3 Bomber)
Any tips or how to's on how to adjust these would be very appreciated.

Link to pics of the shocks here... dont have 10 post count so here goes.
http
://
imageshack
.us/g/515
/img00
67er.jpg/

combine these parts of the link haha.


----------

