# Manitou Dorado



## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

Who has one and how do you like it. I am thinking about getting one but cannot find many reviews on them.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I just got one of the Experts and I like it a lot. I am coming from an older Fox 40 and I could immediately tell that it was much more plush. There are not many reviews on them, but all the ones I did find and people I talked to really liked them. They are supposed to require less service then a 40 and you get one free servicing from Manitou within the first year! Now that is hard to beat.

The fork has no hard bottom out and feels smooth all the way through the travel. I have heard some say that they are a bit finicky in getting them set-up, but I found it very easy to do. Their instructions are crystal clear and they give lots of examples and good explanations on each of the adjustments.

Here is mine on my Demo:










-Brett


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## ifouiripilay (Nov 11, 2005)

I haven't found much reviews since the 2010 carbon version came out. But the ones I have found have been positive and the only compliant if any was the stiffness.

This came out yesterday:
» Manitou Dorado 2013 Expert vs. Pro Downhill Suspension Fork - Sick Lines - mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource


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## sidehiller1 (May 9, 2011)

Love my Manitou Dorado Pro. I have the 2012 version on a WFO9 29er. I mostly ride xc but some of our trails are really chunky with big downhills. I have 3 months of hard riding on it and it works great. I dont do jumps though. It was really easy to set up adjustment wise. Very plush. Wouldnt hesitate to get another.


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## whoda*huck (Feb 12, 2005)

oops, someone beat me with the link.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

ifouiripilay said:


> I haven't found much reviews since the 2010 carbon version came out. But the ones I have found have been positive and the only compliant if any was the stiffness.
> 
> This came out yesterday:
> » Manitou Dorado 2013 Expert vs. Pro Downhill Suspension Fork - Sick Lines - mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource


Nice little write-up. I think we will hear more about them in the future as more people start to ride them.

-Brett


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## MartinS (Jan 31, 2004)

I've been running one since '10 (although it didn't get ridden last year due to injury), and it's been awesome. Only service was to replace 1 blown seal - the 2 guys I rode with had a Boxxer WC and a Fox 40, I'm bigger and tend to ride faster and they both had way more issues than I had. I didn't really notice that flex was an issue - I think that a bit of flex allows the wheel to deflect slightly at speed and keep the bike feeling more stable...


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## billybobzia (Jan 10, 2004)

There is a pretty sweet video of a dude rippin one on pinkbike today.. winter depression is the name of the video, looks like he likes it..


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

And here is another one of a guy rippin' it!






-Brett


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## billybobzia (Jan 10, 2004)

I meant winter destruction...

http://www.pinkbike.com/v/297017/l/

Tyler Gorz - Winter Destruction on Pinkbike


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

i ride the dorado pro 12" one season and i am happy super fast riding fork in any situation, air adjust for any rider lb. no more arm bumping, easy to adjust "super manual", and no problems since 8mt! i ride boxxer BOS rare and a short time fox 40 rc2 kashima. but i ride the dorade again and again and....


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## SavageOne (Dec 31, 2012)

Are there any major differences from the 2011 to the 2013 Dorados. Is the 2011 "pro" basically the 2013 Expert? I'm looking at a bike that has a 2011 Dorado. My plan initially was to buy the 2013 pro but if they are basically the same I'll take the complete bike for now and blow my load next year


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

There have been no major changes to the fork so far. Colors in logos is one and they did something with the air chamber I think. But otherwise they are the same. The Expert is a bit heavier than the Pro......


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## SavageOne (Dec 31, 2012)

Thanks. So I guess I'll save some money this year and the go for all carbon frame and parts and the Dorado pro next year


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

dorado expert 6000 alu dorado pro 7000 alu otherwise same tech.


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

The subtle differences are hard to see but Manitou has essentially saved on machine time on the Expert by reducing the amount of machining on the upper and lower crowns. In addition to the machining difference, there is also a matte finish as well as a different aluminum specification used to save some money during production.

Dorado Expert - less machining in the upper and lower crown

Dorado Pro - more machining in the upper and lower crowns

With these changes, the Dorado Pro ends up coming in a bit lighter than the Expert. Other than that, the Pro and the Expert are exactly the same.


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

The 2 posts above hit it. Aluminum difference and less weight saving machining. The internals are the same.

I've owned a Boxxer Team, Fox 40, 888 Evo Ti and now ride a Dorado Pro.

40 = great damping and stiff
888 = amazingly smooth over bumps
Dorado = great damping - less harsh feedback
Boxxer = don't buy one  personal here, I just don't like SRAM

The Dorado is not as stiff as either the 40 or 888; but it has better damping than the 888, but the 888 is the smoothest over stutter/braking bumps. The Dorado has a different fell as an invert, less feedback on hits I'd say. As you can see they all have the place they shine.

The problem with the 40 is they don't have a cheaper version like the other 3 brands.


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

I just ordered a Dorado Expert last night. Super good deal. Save some $$$ over the Pro for .27 lbs or so difference. I'm cool w/ that. I've only heard great things about the fork. My buddy Todd rides one. He came off of a boxxer w/ the Avy cartridge. He said it is one of the best feeling forks he's ever been out. Guy is a good rider too so i trust his opinion. OP, what bike are you putting yours on?


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Subscribed.....Just installed my Dorado Pro on my DHR. It'll be my first dc fork, so can't make comparisons. Looks sick!


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

I bought the Dorado Pro and put it on a 2012 V-10 Carbon with a DB Air upgrade. I will post pictures when I have finished putting it togeather next week.


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

I'm seeing so many people switching to this fork. Mine is going on my Legend. Before i install i thought i'm getting the frame painted. 3 years of polish and its looking bad. Time for a powder coat for some color. 

Will also post when that stuff is done.. thinking next 2 or 3 weeks.


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## MeanoX (Feb 21, 2013)

hii


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I am glad to see more people running them this year. I think it was a great Idea for Manitou to come out with this Expert model. The only thing I suggest is changing out the stainless hardware with 12.9 grade. Stock seems super soft and mine began to get slop real easily even with using my torque wrench.

-Brett


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

What's the difference between the Dorado Carbon and Dorado Pro? No internal changes? Did the carbon have the machined crowns and axle lugs? So is the carbon lighter? Or are the carbon legs the same weight as the 7000 series legs so they stopped making them?


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

Thanks for the heads up!



Carraig042 said:


> I am glad to see more people running them this year. I think it was a great Idea for Manitou to come out with this Expert model. The only thing I suggest is changing out the stainless hardware with 12.9 grade. Stock seems super soft and mine began to get slop real easily even with using my torque wrench.
> 
> -Brett


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

Lelandjt said:


> What's the difference between the Dorado Carbon and Dorado Pro? No internal changes? Did the carbon have the machined crowns and axle lugs? So is the carbon lighter? Or are the carbon legs the same weight as the 7000 series legs so they stopped making them?


Just weight. The first year they only made the Dorado in carbon. It was made at Hayes in Milwaukee, WI. Once they got the design down they started making them out of AL in Taiwan.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Ithnu said:


> Just weight. The first year they only made the Dorado in carbon. It was made at Hayes in Milwaukee, WI. Once they got the design down they started making them out of AL in Taiwan.


So the carbon has the same crowns, axle lugs, everything as the Pro but the carbon legs are lighter than the 7000 series?
It sounds like the damper hasn't changed over the years but was there some small change to the spring? Anyone know what exactly? If you get a first or second year carbon do you want to send the spring cart to Manitou for an upgrade?


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

Does the fork still come in a gun case?


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## ifouiripilay (Nov 11, 2005)

No gun case, 1 brake adapter -mine post mount, 1 top crown, fork pump.


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

From Pink Bike
Manitou Dorado - Reviewed
Sep 18, 2009
by Mike Levy
Add to my Favorites

Back in February of this year you may have caught our preview of the Manitou Dorado that we have had on test since that time. It's been a long time since we've caused such a stir on the website. With about 200 comments and too many reads to count, it easily garnered the most attention of any of the products to hit the front page in recent memory. But I guess that was sort of expected. I can't remember a single new product causing quite the crap storm of interest, but with carbon legs and a massive price tag it was bound to do that. And let's not forget that it is from Manitou, a name that many once swore by but that had fallen by the way side in more recent times. There are a few good questions to answer, mainly is the new Dorado really that good?

Read on to find out what we think about the latest wonder fork from Manitou.

Manitou Dorado


What's on the outside?

Out of the box and into my hands, my first thought was not how light it is (although it is relatively light), or even how quickly I could manage to get it on my current test bike, but instead how nicely it was finished. The made in the U.S.A. fork is just beautiful. As you would expect, the carbon legs are stunning with the cosmetic weave easy to see. My heart always beats a few beats faster when I am holding anything made of the black wonder material. Carbon has its detractors, but it is hard to argue that it doesn't look stunning. The upper tubes bulge slightly at the lower crown and continue down at the same diameter. The upper and lower crowns each clamp onto anodized gold aluminum sleeves that have been bonded to the carbon tubes, increasing clamp diameter and protecting the carbon at the same time.

Aluminum sleeves give the crowns a strong place to clamp while protecting the carbon

The crowns look up to the task, the lower crown itself is massive. Tolerances seem to be just right, as in you don't need a hammer to get your top crown on and in position. The top crown fits an integrated stem and uses the same standard that you will find on Boxxers or Fox 40s. All crown pinch bolts are drilled A270 rust resistant bolts, details. There is a smart hose guide on the lower crown which uses a single 2.5 mm allen bolt, nice to see they didn't decide to use anything smaller like some other rather cheesy hose guides. The aluminum steerer tube is butted as well.






Upper and lower fork crown detail

The decals themselves are a step above what we usually see in the bicycle industry. The thick vinyl graphics don't look like they will be separating themselves from the legs anytime soon, which is nice because I think they look pretty damn sharp. It is great to see the MRD (Manitou Racing Development) logo make a return to the range, signifying that this fork sits at the top of the fork hierarchy.

Manitou Racing Development

The stanchions are 36 mm across and are protected via sturdy plastic guards. The original Dorado leg guards were quite brittle, having a tendency to crack before bending. These are thick and flexible so they should last much longer. They also have aluminum sleeves in each bolt hole to prevent cracking due to over tightening or an accident. Three 2.5 mm bolts hold each guard in its place and the left has a built in hose guide.

The HexLock axle






HexLock axle and steel pinch bolt inserts

The Dorado accepts standard 20 mm x 110 mm thru-axle hubs and uses Manitou's 6 sided HexLock axle system. Two pinch bolts per side hold the axle in place, and they thread into replaceable steel inserts that prevent any permanent damage from over tightening. The fork uses a modular brake adapter and comes with both 8" post mount and I.S. mount.

Modular brake mount






8" post mount adapter and 8" I.S. adapter

Hand made in the U.S.A.






Frame bumper, clean and simple hose guide


What's on the inside?

I got a chance to pull apart the Dorado with one of Manitou's head guys, Nick Pyne, so I couldn't turn it down. Nick knows his stuff really well, and when he sunk his teeth into the Dorado it was evident that not only did they invest a lot of money, effort, and time into the design and construction of the Dorado, but it was worth the extra money. Over the years we've been sold some pretty hokey fork internals, most of us without really knowing. A lot of riders would be surprised to find that their fork that was top of the range only a few seasons back actually uses technology taken from moto forks built in the '70's and '80's. The Dorado internals are about as far from that as you could get. Inside you'll find nothing but cnc'd aluminum bits, most anodized for long term durability, no unfinished edges or any sacrifice in quality to be seen. All the parts are constructed out of durable materials to ensure each tear down and rebuild does not leave your fork feeling worse than before.

Dorado's TPC+ assembly completely removed

All the words Nick threw out sound technical, and the diagrams look good, but the Dorado is best understood once you get inside. The damping assembly is designed, and laid out perfectly. As it's an inverted fork Mantiou has put the damping assembly at the bottom of the leg, meaning whenever you're riding the oil is keeping the items lubricated that need it the most. The rebound assembly fits directly into the damper, which is housed inside a closed bath system. This closed bath system includes the complete TPC+ assembly, rebound assembly, and hydraulic bottom out assembly, all neatly tied up and sealed inside this unit.

The TPC+ unit sits at the bottom of the damping leg, both the LSC (red dial) and HSC (black dial) are located here

Damping cartridge completely removed from the lower leg, inner tube separated from the cartridge body

TPC+ removed from inner tube

Rebound damping piston and top out cone

On the opposite side of the fork is the self equalizing air spring system. This system was simpler compared to the damping assembly, but still shouted quality engineering. Once inside the air spring leg it was fairly obviously what each component did. It consisted of one large air chamber, one piston, and a few odd looking parts that once they were explained looked very functional. At the top of this leg is the Air input valve, and you guessed it, that's where you air up your spring. Clearly stated on the cap is the recommended settings for air pressure, and a warning to not remove air from this valve. Should you need to remove air, you'll have to do so via the lower air valve at the bottom of the leg. Remember, the Dorado features self equalizing air chambers for positive and negative.

Travel adjustment from 8" to 7" is accomplished by moving the C-clip (trapped under gold nut) to a new position closing the nut over it

As you can clearly see on the air spring is a nut, and a rubber stopper. These are both 2 completely functional features about the fork, the top out bumper, and the travel adjustment. Stuck on the end of the air piston is what's referred to as a poppet valve. This valve is what equalizes the pressure between the positive, and negative chamber, a pretty helpful little unit. All wrapped in a thick rubber seal to keep the pressure in the right areas, and sealed in a leg. That is what the air spring leg consists of.

Air piston and poppet valve

Air piston and poppet valve

Graph showing Dorado air spring rate versus relative coil spring

All these fancy components and parts to the Dorado would be completely useless if they were not correctly protected, and sealed. All housed inside dual layered carbon legs and protected by not 1, not 2, but 3 seals insures the Dorado's internals are well protected from the elements that be. All the external adjustments are well labeled and are noticeable right away once used. The Dorado is a really well thought out, and well constructed fork worthy of the investment.


And Finally The Riding Impressions

Manitou is really leading the way in appearance and aesthetic with the carbon legged Dorado. As we already covered, the finish and attention to detail is more than unrivaled by any other manufacturer. For those riders who are paying top dollar for this top piece of kit it is going to need to do a whole lot more than simply look pretty in the garage. In short, it has to work better. There are those who will happily hand over their hard-earned money for the Dorado, oblivious and uncaring as to whether there really is a performance gap between it and the less expensive competition. But that is not where the new fork (and the reborn Manitou name) will earn it's reputation. Pro and expert level riders who push hard and know exactly what is happening under them while up to speed, riders who take the time to shape their suspension into something that can and will help their cause on the trail, those who know that there is an advantage to be had, those are the people who should have a go on this fork. After only the first few rides it was painfully clear that it really was working better.

The impressive thing about the Dorado is how it manages to deal with it all quite easily, never feeling like it is working overly hard to move the front wheel out of the way. The initial entry into it's travel is not as supple as some would hope, although that is of zero consequence when on the dirt. The Dorado always garnered attention at the trail heads and I could only smile and nod when another rider gave it a push in the lot and declared it "nothing special", I mean there really is nothing to say to that and I can't go lending the bike out to every rider now can I. Get rolling with some proper terrain passing under you and that is when you will realize that yes, something special is happening.

Click the HD video to see some slow-motion action with the new Dorado

Views:13907 Faves:40 Comments:21 Add to my Favorites

That silky smooth top end that seemed to be lacking while at a standstill obviously has nothing to do with riding the fork in real time, as the smallest irregularities on the ground were simply erased from below me. I'm talking about the things that we don't see when riding above our limits and looking far ahead, those little things that make you back back up the trail to see what it was that was giving you so much trouble. How the fork deals so well with the smaller issues I don't know, but it passes nearly none of it up and into the bars, even more importantly, it seems to greatly reduce the amplitude of the these nuisance bits of any trail before they reach your tires. A lot of beating around the bush when what I am trying to say is that the end result is greater traction. Then again, that is what suspension is there for, now isn't it? This is simply what happens when that very suspension is working very, very well at its job. It is easy to argue that another brand's fork could be set up to accomplish the same thing, and that's true, but that fork would then be lacking in other departments and at the very least require a skilled and knowledgeable tuner to do multiple rebuilds and tinker with things that most of us don't know how to tinker with. Out of the box (or gun case as it may be) the Dorado has no peers in this category, but gives up no ground at any other point in it's travel as well.

Graph shows TPC+ compression damping curve and adjustment range versus a more classic system

Past the smaller bothers and into it's travel, the fork never complained. It seems to me that there are certain forks out there that are guilty of not being able to properly transition deeper into their stroke without over reacting. Why would I want to use all my travel when I should only be using part of it? Now that we seem to have settled on 8" up front there is a lot of room to get things wrong, much more than on a shorter stroke AM bike, using too much of that travel too often can have disastrous effects on your bike's handling and it isn't helped by having that much or more travel in the back of the bike. The Dorado is not plagued by this common problem. Hard braking did far less to upset the bikes geometry than what I was used to. The anodized red low-speed compression (LSC) dial had a noticeable effect in keeping the bike from diving, but at the same time the fork was never harsh, even with the LSC fully closed. When LSC was at full open it was still more controlled than the competition, although I would still like to see an even wider range of adjustment available externally.

Up to speed and the fork is fully in control of what is going on. It took some time to realize that the Dorado really was working hard at it's job, mainly because it went about dealing with the common lumps and edges that are on all our trails so well. The fork's mid-stroke was practically erasing whatever it was that was under me. No spikes and no surprises, leaving me to concentrate on getting down the trail. This took the longest to understand. I don't want to describe the feeling as vague, because it was far from it, but it really muted a lot of terrain that would have had me tensing up. Stay relaxed and let the suspension deal with it as it does. What more could you really ask for?

Watch pro racer Jason Memmelaar have some fun with the Dorado

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The hydraulic bottoming cone does what one would hope. Not once, despite some impressive mistakes, was I able to really close down hard at the end of the stroke. Full travel was used, but by the time I managed to get there it was far more of a soft bottom than a hard finish. It's a wonder why other forks don't take advantage of this system, although I'm sure they'd give you a reason why. Manitou uses a similar arrangement to control the opposite end of the stroke and it proved just as useful there as well. I have read a few complaints of some minor topping out of early production run Dorados that were shipped without this top out cone, but I've been told that every fork now has this system installed. I want to make the next statement as clear as possible: the Dorado is not flexible and I would argue that what resiliency is there is helping and not a hindrance. Not at any point during my time on the fork did I wish for it to be any stiffer torsionally. End of story.

Hydraulic bottoming cone

There are forks available that come very close to matching the Dorado in certain areas of detail, but there is not a single fork that is as polished all around as the carbon tubed Manitou, it inspires confidence in every situation. The entire stroke is nothing but quality, there really is no compromising at any point in the travel. No giving up one trait to gain another and certainly no awkward moments that make you wonder what just happened. You get to have your cake and eat it as well. Although it's one expensive cake.

Other Notes...

The seals that Manitou chose to use on the Dorado seem to be up to the task and then some. While only a few months time is hardly enough to report any long term verdicts, they let nary a drop of oil by. Zero. Zilch. Hell, there wasn't even the slightest wisp of oil left on the lower tube after any compression. I have high hopes that they will perform as well further into the future.






Manitou Dorado outer, inner, and installed seal detail

Having had many seasons on the old Dorado and going through too many stanchion guards to remember, I can happily report that won't be the case with the new version. The guards are thick and flexible, with aluminum inserts at the screw holes to keep the fastening bolts from pulling through. Not one was broken during the test and I doubt it is going to happen anytime soon.




Robust but flexible stanchion guards are up for some abuse

One point of contention was discovered after the Dorado equipped test bike was left to sit unused for a few weeks. It was evident that the fork was not at its best after the long break, not the least bit eager to enter its travel. Everything was back to normal after a quick burn or two, but it may be important to store the bike upside down when not used for extended periods.


So what do I really think?

The truth is that no matter how good the Dorado is, and it really is that good, there will be those that will find fault with it. Let's be honest here, it could be easy to find something to pick out: it's carbon and no matter how much proof is out there or how well it is made you are sure that you will snap it in two simply by loading it onto your bike rack! And of course it's inverted and you simply will not be able to ride down your local hill without the front wheel pointing off in the wrong direction! Oh yeah, it's holy-**** expensive and you... Ok, I'll give you that one as I'll never be able to afford it either! But wait, the new aluminum legged version sporting the same amazing internals could be just the ticket for us bike bums. I'll be truthful, when bits of info and pictures of the new Dorado were first made available I immediately balked at the prospect of the new fork. Even though I'd had plenty of great experiences with TPC+ damping in both the original Dorado, and later a much loved 7" Travis, I still was not sold on the new fork as a whole. At a much greater price than some of the competition, as well as a much flashier appearance, I almost wanted it to not live up to the expectations. That is obviously not the case. As much as I would like to find fault with the Dorado, speaking strictly about the fork's performance, I simply can't. Pretty much every suspension company out there manages to produce a full fledged DH fork that will never hold most of us back, none of the other top forks are exactly dogs, but with the Dorado on the front of my bike I had more confidence than ever before and that says a lot. At the end of it you can find all the faults you like, the reality is that this is the highest performing no-compromise DH fork available to consumers out of the box.

Mike "Kakah" Levy


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

Got mine today.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

Pics?

Vital just posted up a review of the expert.

-Brett


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Carraig042 said:


> Pics?
> 
> Vital just posted up a review of the expert.
> 
> -Brett


Thanks for posting the review. Only have two short rides on mine, so still tuning it.

"Finally, one quick tip that could save you a headache - be sure to snug the small bolts on the fork guards often, or consider adding Loc-Tite to the threads for a set and forget solution."

Don't miss this step above, I never checked when installing the fork and two short rides later, I've lost one bolt from the guards already.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Carraig042 said:


> Pics?
> 
> Vital just posted up a review of the expert.
> 
> -Brett


They say it has a significantly longer axle-crown than a Fox 40. Is there something limiting how far the legs can be slid up in the crowns? Since most forks allow you to slide them up till the tire's about to hit the crown on bottom-out the difference among DH forks, minimum height is usually negligible.

I've slid my 888 up and down on various frames but currently running it at max height which is dictated by where the butting starts above the lower crown. Its min height line is about 15mm lower. I wish I had its A-C numbers here.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

Lelandjt said:


> They say it has a significantly longer axle-crown than a Fox 40. Is there something limiting how far the legs can be slid up in the crowns? Since most forks allow you to slide them up till the tire's about to hit the crown on bottom-out the difference among DH forks, minimum height is usually negligible.
> 
> I've slid my 888 up and down on various frames but currently running it at max height which is dictated by where the butting starts above the lower crown. Its min height line is about 15mm lower. I wish I had its A-C numbers here.


What limits you from going further than the highest/lowest setting on axle to crown length is the physical taper of the uppers. You only have that certain range that is flat for the lower clamp.

-Brett


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

So is the 591mm A-C measurement in the review the minimum length? If anyone is running it at that position how much space does it leave between the axle and crown at bottom-out?


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

567-591 is the A-C Length. To get a rough number with the suspension compressed, just subtract 203mm for the travel.

Specs from Manitou

-Brett


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I think the 567 is the A-C in the 180 travel setting, not the other end of the height range. If 591 is the lowest it goes that is kinda tall, way taller than any 26" tire needs. I don't have my DH fork here to measure but I remember my Minion 2.7" measured 26.9". A lower crown is maybe 25mm tall. So minimum height on a 40, Boxxer, or 888 is about 570-575mm. That matches up with what the review says. Since I like the fork on my V10 raised some this should be close enough for me but it's weird that Manitou made it so tall.

The Vital review has a quick blurb about a different legged 650 model. To run 29" wheels you just install a spacer so it's odd that they'd make a different fork for 650. Also, their website says nothing about that. I emailed Manitou for more info about this and also asked what the axle-crown range is.


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

No, it adjustable with the A-C measurement. the Lowest is approx 567mm. My A-C measurement is about 580mm and I could drop it down another 10mm or so. This is with the 203mm travel. If you are worried about tire size, then look at this.

With 180mm travel setting you have 189mm of minimum tire clearance, maximum tire radius of 345mm and max tire width of 80mm.

With travel set to 203mm you have a minimum tire clearance of 212mm a maximum tire radius and width is the same


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Oh, then all that talk of fork height in the review was rubbish. It's got the same range as every other DH fork (give or take a little difference in crown thickness), with tire clearance as the limiting factor.

Manitou got back to me on the 650 version. It will have unique legs and internals to preserve 200mm travel with the bigger wheels. I guess a modified version of their 29er kit could be used to limit travel of the regular fork enough to use a 650 wheel.


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## infamousaidy (Mar 10, 2013)

hey guys, just registered for some advice from you guys on dorados.
i've just fitted a pair of 2013 experts on my scalp and have been massively massively impressed but i've noticed one HUUUUGE flaw, no brace means no mudguard and i'm getting a face full of mud. living in possibly the wettest part of the northern hemisphere or so it seems, whilse also been short sighted and having to ride in glasses this is becoming a massive problem. 
Can anyone recommend a mudhuard to work with the dorados?

i tried posting pics but i dont have enough post yet.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Mud always tastes so good...ha ha ha ... Hmmm I would love to try one of these forks out! DVO and X-Fusion are sleeping .


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## MartinS (Jan 31, 2004)

Does THE still make those mud guards that attach at the bottom of the steerer tube?


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I have heard of someone making a small guard that attaches to the bottom of the steerer tube like what MartinS said. I do not think there is anything like Mucky Nutz available for the fork. You will have to come up with some other idea. I am in the process of thinking of one now.

-Brett


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## infamousaidy (Mar 10, 2013)

Yeah its looking like the THE moto style fender is the only viable option. It just looks a bit too late 90's but i suppose their pretty cheap.


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## snojcb (Sep 28, 2007)

For Dorado mud guard, check out the Crud Fast Fender.

MTB | Crud-products


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

I dont like the looks of that one at all or how it mounts. I have been toying with a few ideas on a mud guard with my Dorado, but I have not had a chance to test it yet.

-Brett


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

A THE moto fender comes on and off really easily and works well. That's your ticket. You'll only have it on when you need it and won't mind the looks.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

So how about an update for all of you that got your forks in ? Some time has passed  Lets get some pix in here too !


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

I've had mine since 2012 but I did just get it back from my free Hayes service and rode it at Angel Fire, NM last weekend. Feels the same, still no problems. But I did try running it with 10psi less than last year and it felt super smooth. I didn't feel it bottom out but I used up 90% of the travel on a blue run. I set it up 5 psi (still 5 lower than last year) so it wouldn't bottom on jumps or double black rocks and it is a happy medium.

Basically I threw out the sag setting measurement concept and went with what used the travel most efficiently for what I was riding. It really doesn't have a noticeable bottom out compared to the "thunk" my 888 did.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Well i bit the bullet and ordered the Dorado Expert . The price they have going on Pricepoint is ridiculous and i couldnt pass it up .. Im looking forward to this bad boy .. They are on back order right now but i think the first week in June is when they should be in :thumbsup:


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## dutch23 (Mar 22, 2009)

aedubber said:


> Well i bit the bullet and ordered the Dorado Expert . The price they have going on Pricepoint is ridiculous and i couldnt pass it up .. Im looking forward to this bad boy .. They are on back order right now but i think the first week in June is when they should be in :thumbsup:


Do you know for sure if they are supposed to be in that week? I ordered mine at the beginning of April and have yet to receive anything. The emails I send them usually get replied back to quickly but the answers are always vague.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

another fork you might want to look at is the new DVO Emerald if you have less then 3 months to wait


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Yeah , most places that are selling the Dorados are expecting the experts in on the first week of June.

Heard the emeralds might be retailing around 2k ?


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## dutch23 (Mar 22, 2009)

aedubber said:


> Yeah , most places that are selling the Dorados are expecting the experts in on the first week of June.
> 
> Heard the emeralds might be retailing around 2k ?


Cool, I'm not to excited about waiting so long, but for the price I paid I can wait. Just hope to have it soon, the weather is starting to get nice.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

dutch23 said:


> Cool, I'm not to excited about waiting so long, but for the price I paid I can wait. Just hope to have it soon, the weather is starting to get nice.


Yea the price was INSANE and i dont mind waiting either lol ... I know it will be hard to beat the price that was offered during memorial weekend .


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> another fork you might want to look at is the new DVO Emerald if you have less then 3 months to wait


I know you love the guys at DVO, who used to be Marzocchi USA, but what is the price point on that fork?

Dorado Expert looks like the $$/performance win for 2013.


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## shwinn8 (Feb 25, 2006)

is a Dorado Pro for $1,125 brand new a good deal?


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

Retail I think they are $1,700. So even if it's a 2012 that's a great deal.


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## dutch23 (Mar 22, 2009)

shwinn8 said:


> is a Dorado Pro for $1,125 brand new a good deal?


For a pro that sounds like a pretty good price.


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## cadwiz (Jul 28, 2010)

If DE performs as well as my DP, it's worth the wait. I've been riding DP hard since 2010 and no problems what so ever.


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

Just got my Expert put onto my Legend. Real excited about it. First ride will be this Saturday.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Ryan- Damn man bike looks great and so does the fork ! Please do give an update on the riding.. Ive never been a fan of air but ive heard such good stories that i had to try it out ! Hopefully i get my fork in soon .


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## shwinn8 (Feb 25, 2006)

yup! bike looks awesome!


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

The DORADO is killer at rough, choppy repetitive stuff. It just stays on trail and never packs up or drops to far into the travel. I have never ridden a fork this good. My 2001 Monster T comes close bot it weighed 9LBS or so.....I have a 40 AIR coming soon see how that feels.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Finally got my expert on the Demo and took it for a spin today. Damn , this fork is SICKKKKK .... Talk about plush , responsive, NO more arm pump , and it just works . I dont know how to describe the feeling but its a different kind of feeling with this fork. It was soaking up the chop , i was able to just blitz thru everything and ate up some big chunky rocks. I have to agree with ianjenn , it just sticks to the trail and never packs up at all and its not harsh either . Extremely happy especially for the price. Even the brake bumps that start to come up on the trails were non existant which is great ! lol . Im starting off with the base tunes for now until it gets fully broken in then making minor tweaks .


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## shwinn8 (Feb 25, 2006)

awesome to hear! i can't wait to upgrade my aging '07 SuperT! trying to do the responsible thing 1st and pay off the personal loan


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

Quick update: Fork feels amazing but started gushing oil. Emailed Manitou and got a response in about 6 hours with an RA#. Sent thr fork off ans should have it back soon. They said it'll take about 2 days to fix. This same thing happened to a couple of my buddies. They got their fixed for free and they've been perfect since (their's happened month ago).


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Hopefully its a quick fix , next week im off to a full week trip to hit up highland , killington, and mount snow . Hope my fork holds up and doesn't breakdown :/ .


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

aedubber said:


> Hopefully its a quick fix , next week im off to a full week trip to hit up highland , killington, and mount snow . Hope my fork holds up and doesn't breakdown :/ .


I'm sure yours will be fine. Ours happened quick. Also I read on Vital that theirs did the same thing. They contined to ride on theirs for awhile so I wouldn't worry about it.


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

ryan_daugherty said:


> Quick update: Fork feels amazing but started gushing oil. Emailed Manitou and got a response in about 6 hours with an RA#. Sent thr fork off ans should have it back soon. They said it'll take about 2 days to fix. This same thing happened to a couple of my buddies. They got their fixed for free and they've been perfect since (their's happened month ago).


I think they had a batch with a seal issue. Those 3 bikes I tested all had the same Dorado on them It did the rounds hard. Got rebuilt/serviced after 2 years riding.

THAT'S NOT MANITOU RECOMMENDED BTW


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## Carraig042 (Nov 12, 2009)

It was a batch issue. There was a new guy on the line that supposedly was putting the oil seal in upside down. Happened to mine, but was a quick fix and has been great since then.

-Brett


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Seems like i lucked out then  ... I been giving mine a good break in and pushing it really hard in the rock gardens , all i have to say is hold on cuz this thing does not pack up and slow down lol . Im surprised at how much of a difference each click of an adjustment does .


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

Oh and a good note about the seals: don't store them upside down as it drys out the seals and they'll start leaking. I hang my bikes from the front wheel so last summer it was upside down. Last fall one of the seals started leaking really bad. I read the instruction manual at that point...yeah I know I should have read that FIRST.

Sent it to Hayes, they fixed it up and sent it back, no questions asked.


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

I heard there was an issue but i didnt hear thr cause. Putting the seal in upsidedown is hilarious. Yeah Manitou is taking care of me just like they did for all my buddies.


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## boylagz (Sep 28, 2008)

Awesome hearing good CS from guys at Manitou. Im really looking at getting the Expert for my V10. No $$$ for the Float 40, and the Dorado is the best looking dc imo, not to mention people running it seem to be super happy. Good stuff.


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## ifouiripilay (Nov 11, 2005)

Manitou CS has been good to me and quick to reply to my inquiries. I had some discoloration on my right stanchion which i never dealt with before. Sent them a photo and they replied the next day. What i thought might be early stanchion wear was actually dry anodizing. They told me to wipe it with full synthetic motor oil and sure enough it went away. Other than that I've had no issues with the fork.

This is my first DC fork and so far i've been pleased with the purchase. I'm not a big hitter but its taken everything that i put on it on local trails and at snow summit. I'll be taking it out to mammoth soon enough.
It was smooth out of the box but its only gotten better after the break in period.


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## boylagz (Sep 28, 2008)

^ Cool man. Really thinking of trying the Expert. Its honestly one of the better looking dc forks thats for sure. Dat new DVO Emerald looks hurt. Lolz


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

boylagz said:


> Awesome hearing good CS from guys at Manitou.


It is the folks at Hayes. Hayes Brakes has owned Manitou/Answer/Sun Ringle for 5 years now.


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

FYI, got a tracking number from Manitou and the fork will be in ob my Bday! Woohoo!


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## ryan_daugherty (Oct 8, 2006)

Got my fork best on the 3rd and it's in perfect shape. Settings and air were all returned to my preference too. Stoked on that. Riding it tomorrow but parking lot test says the thing is still mega plush.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

My seal is leaking .... looks like time for warranty ... I noticed it a few days after some rides at my local bike park :/ .. thought I lucked out but guess not.


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

Just got my new Dorado this week and really like it. If anyone wants a crazy good deal on one I got some extra new pro's and experts in my garage for sale.


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

aedubber said:


> My seal is leaking .... looks like time for warranty ... I noticed it a few days after some rides at my local bike park :/ .. thought I lucked out but guess not.


It seeping some is normal like a ring around it is fine. If it is more than that...


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Yeah it was more .. there was a stream of fluid down my tube and filled up around the ring.


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## danglingmanhood (Sep 16, 2005)

That sucks! Probably just need to replace a bad seal and you're golden, isn't the fork only a few weeks old?


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## danglingmanhood (Sep 16, 2005)

And did you go on your New England MTB trip?


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## ringoesroadking (Feb 4, 2008)

What are you guys running for your settings?
I weigh 190 geared up
I was running 75psi with tpc+15 clicks and HSC all the way open Out of the box new and I was only getting barely over an inch of sag.
This felt great at first but since the fork is getting broken in I have changed the settings drastically due to the fork feeling too soft and diving under hard braking.
Now at 80 psi TPC Ten clicks out HSC 15 clicks. getting proper sag and still using all the travel. 
Have you guys noticed similar during the break in period?


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

danglingmanhood said:


> That sucks! Probably just need to replace a bad seal and you're golden, isn't the fork only a few weeks old?


Yeah its definitely a bad seal ... waiting for customer service to get back to me . Just got back today ! Highland is so crazy! No words to explain the place.


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## shwinn8 (Feb 25, 2006)

i'm seeing a common trend with leaking seals...


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Heres my seal on the damper side.... I dont mind as they had a bad batch of seals , this fork is amazing.I just got back from being at Highland Bike Park and it survived


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Mine had a little seepage, but not like ^^ that. Wiped it off and haven't seen seepage since, but the only riding I've done on it since was on the driveway. And like others, the fork has performed as stated on this thread.


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## infamousaidy (Mar 10, 2013)

Ah dorados. That was fun. Heres a story
bought my dorados with a frameset deal. They didnt arrive when they should so my mate in the shoo gave me the ones that were for his bike. A month later i kept catching the guide on things. Investigation found that not only was oil gushing out the seals the fork was only extending to 160mm not 200. So back they went. 3 weeks later they get back from the distributors and the seal was fixed the not extending problem wasnt even tho i wrote a note explaining the problems. My friend in the shop gave me a new set of forks that again were meant to be going on his own bike and said he'd just keep mine when he got them back. The weekend the forks came back coinsided nicely with the day that the second set on my bike were again gushing oil out of the seals. So guess what,yet again he'd put forks destined for his bike on mine. As i was due to be spending 3 weeks riding in the alps i found a shop out here that could fit new seals to the forks in case they went again. Then i tried to get some seals. The distributors not obly wouldnt give me a set as a goodwill gesture (the forks come with a free service and seal change within 12 months so wtf) it turns out they dont even stock the seals in the country.
i emailed manitou and explained all the hassle dealling with the distributors and got an email giving me contact details for the distributors i didnt want to deal with anymore, but also a link to email the guy directly in europe if i had more issues. Never heard back from him and i'm currently laid in a french bed looking forward to riding my marzocchi equipped bike tomorrow and will never buy another manitou fork.
good luck to all who own them but all the riding done on my 3 pairs back in the uk doesnt compare to a day out here. I want my bike reliable.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Well they been great to me so far and quick with the customer service . Sucks you had such a bad experience. Im looking forward to getting my fork leg back and start riding this week . Worse case scenario , I could always pick up a new fox 40


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## infamousaidy (Mar 10, 2013)

Yeah the service here was shocking. Luckily i got them silly cheap so didnt loose out cash wise by changing them. They worked awesome tho but the trails at home are a couple of minutes long and most of the time we play on 30 second sections so there is no way all the issues are justified especially when fox uk turnaround is 2 days and marzocchi took about a week to sort my dads ata with a coil conversion.


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

ringoesroadking said:


> What are you guys running for your settings?
> I weigh 190 geared up
> I was running 75psi with tpc+15 clicks and HSC all the way open Out of the box new and I was only getting barely over an inch of sag.
> This felt great at first but since the fork is getting broken in I have changed the settings drastically due to the fork feeling too soft and diving under hard braking.
> ...


No HSC? Hayes even recommends a lot of HSC for DH applications. I run a lot of HSC and a moderate amount of LSC. HSC 4 clicks out (from fully closed) and LSC 10 clicks out. I'm 220 lbs and run 85 psi.



shwinn8 said:


> i'm seeing a common trend with leaking seals...


Yeah unfortunately they all seep/leak a bit. The oil sits right against the seal, invert, so it will come out a bit. But it is an open bath so there is a lot of oil and losing a bit won't do much. But it is a bit disconcerting.


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

infamousaidy said:


> Ah dorados. That was fun. Heres a story
> bought my dorados with a frameset deal. They didnt arrive when they should so my mate in the shoo gave me the ones that were for his bike. A month later i kept catching the guide on things. Investigation found that not only was oil gushing out the seals the fork was only extending to 160mm not 200.


" So the Dorados can develop this minor issue where they stick down in the travel and don't come up to full extension. Easy fix though - let ALL the air out, pull the fork up, and fill it back up again. Do this at least 5 minutes after you finish riding it to let it cool down a bit.

A little "works" trick to get the fork a little plusher off the top is to fill it up when it's about 1/8"-1/4" short of topped out to put a little bit of a negative air cushion in the fork. This will make it enter its travel easier."

THAT WOULD PROBABLY HAVE SOLVED THE TRAVEL ISSUE...

I finally did the Dorado Review if you guys wanna look at it. I have questions their engineers are answering now will post up ASAP when we get them back.

Manitou Dorado Pro Review - REVIEWS - downhillnews


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

ianjenn said:


> " So the Dorados can develop this minor issue where they stick down in the travel and don't come up to full extension. Easy fix though - let ALL the air out, pull the fork up, and fill it back up again. Do this at least 5 minutes after you finish riding it to let it cool down a bit.
> 
> A little "works" trick to get the fork a little plusher off the top is to fill it up when it's about 1/8"-1/4" short of topped out to put a little bit of a negative air cushion in the fork. This will make it enter its travel easier."
> 
> ...


That was a GREAT review and spot on . I would have to agree with everything you said about the fork , its just that amazing . I actually got used to the flex in it , but at first it was weird . Cant wait to get my fork leg back so i can go rip !


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

I think my 40 Float is going to be sold here soon......just ripped the rebound knob off the damn thing!


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

ianjenn said:


> I think my 40 Float is going to be sold here soon......just ripped the rebound knob off the damn thing!


Was the cover on it?


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

Lelandjt said:


> Was the cover on it?


YES it gets worse the guy who did it also did the same to his coil 40 last year!


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

UPDATE* Okay so after a small miss communication ! My fork leg shipped out wednesday and ill have it this friday :thumbsup:. Cant wait to break it in again.


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

I went back to my original settings (more HSC and less LSC) with a moderate rebound. I rode better and was much happier. I figured it was worth a try to see what a different settings would do. But I'm sticking with what Manitou recommends for DH.


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Ithnu said:


> I went back to my original settings (more HSC and less LSC) with a moderate rebound. I rode better and was much happier. I figured it was worth a try to see what a different settings would do. But I'm sticking with what Manitou recommends for DH.


I find these settings to be REALLY good as well .. Fork amazes me everyday


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## fmxking (May 9, 2008)

Anyone know where I can buy some replacement stantion guards and mounting bolts for a Dorado?


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

Call Price point they are a dealer and mail order seller for Manitou


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

fmxking said:


> Anyone know where I can buy some replacement stantion guards and mounting bolts for a Dorado?


Call Hayes (they own Manitou). If you leave a message they will actually call back. Hayes has great customer service.


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## Foxbat (Feb 14, 2006)

Ithnu said:


> Call Hayes (they own Manitou). If you leave a message they will actually call back. Hayes has great customer service.


Yep. They're very responsive and friendly. I've been genuinely impressed with the service from Manitou.


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## stunzeed (Mar 17, 2007)

I am having an issue where I have to run my direct mount stem at 55 since the bars hit the stancions if I try and run a 45 or 50mm stem? Anyone have this issue?


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

stunzeed said:


> I am having an issue where I have to run my direct mount stem at 55 since the bars hit the stancions if I try and run a 45 or 50mm stem? Anyone have this issue?


Raise your top crown.


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## marinwolfrider (May 20, 2007)

My stock Syncros stem seemed to work in the 47mm setting with the Dorado (maybe there was some rise designed into it) but once I installed my new Havoc, I have the same problem as you. I can only run it in the 55mm setting. I'm glad I didn't take the plunge with 35mm bars, there's no way they would fit. I believe the crown geometry gives the Dorado an extreme amount of trail, and orients the stanchions forward of the steering tube.


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## sidehiller1 (May 9, 2011)

I am running an Answer Pro Taper 1 inch rise bar. I can get down to 50 mm setting on the stem which is where I run it. A straight bar would probably require a longer stem for clearance. The Manitou Dorado is a super fork!


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## Bissman (Feb 7, 2014)

Hi guys bit of a grave dig but I own a pair of Dorado pros and have had them since december 2012. Anyway I find that my damper side seal goes every 2-3months but never the air spring side, changed the seal twice so it's definitely in the right way round. Does anyone have an idea as to what would cause this?


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Nick on the leg?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

From what I've been reading, it seems that the Dorado has much more need for rebuild/seal service than a 888 - is that correct? My DH bike doesn't see tons of use due to my flatland location, but I also like not having to service something for every trip


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## ianjenn (Aug 1, 2004)

CharacterZero said:


> From what I've been reading, it seems that the Dorado has much more need for rebuild/seal service than a 888 - is that correct? My DH bike doesn't see tons of use due to my flatland location, but I also like not having to service something for every trip


I have owned 4 or so of them in last 4 years. We had one on a text bike that saw 200K vertical feet of riding in about 1.5 years. The seals never leaked. I did NO service on that fork then sent in for the rebuild. I would say they are pretty low service.


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## JMSmitty (Apr 17, 2013)

I figured I would try posting this question in this thread before starting my own thread. Its going to be a long post. I'm about to install a Dorado. I was a reviewing the manual about what the different damping adjusters did/controlled and wanted to make sure my reading comprehension was up to par. Here is a link to the manual- http://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/2012_Dorado_Pro_Exp_Manual.pdf. Pages 9-10 of the manual discuss compression damping. In the manual it discusses three stages of travel- 0-100mm, 100-160mm, 160-203mm. From what I understand, on this particular fork, the high speed clicker does not control all high speed events as is typical of other forks. What I read in the manual, correct me if I'm wrong, the high speed clicker ONLY controls high speed events in the 0-100mm stage. Here is what it says in the manual-

"Typically, a "high speed" compression event is characterized 
by a high shaft velocity incident caused by either the unsprung 
wheel mass being forced towards bike chassis or the sprung 
rider mass being forced towards the ground. In the first case 
the high shaft velocity is caused by the bike, at high speeds, 
coming in contact with a small obstacle (less than 100mm 
[4in]; i.e. stutter bumps, rocks, and roots). Even at lower bike 
speeds, high shaft velocities will be reached on more abrupt 
obstacles (square edged bumps.). 
Generally, it is desirable for the fork to be plush (minimal 
damping force) when encountering a high speed event of 
this nature and should travel through the stroke with minimal 
movement translated to the rider. This damping characteristic 
is set by the High-Speed Adjuster"

Then it seems that the TPC+ adjuster is used to control high speed events between 100-160mm. The manual states-

"In the second case of high-speed shaft velocity, gravity forces 
the rider's mass downward, deep into the fork's travel (more 
than 100mm [4in]) from landing a jump or a drop. This damping characteristic is set by the TPC+ Adjuster. The TPC+ Adjuster is located on the bottom of the 
right dropout."

Finally it seems any high speed events at 160-203mm is controlled internally through circuits, ect.-

"During extreme High-Speed events, the rider's mass forces 
the fork deep into its travel (more than 160mm [6in]). During 
these severe bottoming events the damper will engage the 
Hydraulic Bottom-Out Resistance Circuit."

It goes on to discuss low speed damping. Seems to be controlled by air pressure AND TPC+? Seems odd to me that TPC would be used to controll high and low speed events!?

"A "Low-Speed" event is characterized by a short-travel (less 
than 100mm [4in]) low-shaft-velocity as a result of changes to 
the bike's trail stance (i.e. berms, G-outs, pedaling, & braking). 
The low-speed characteristics of the fork will be dictated by the 
TPC+ adjuster. Note also that the lower the shaft velocity, the 
more this condition is controlled by spring force (air pressure). 
In longer duration events such as braking for several seconds, 
the AMOUNT of dive is controlled by air pressure, while the 
SPEED of dive is controlled by damping."

So I guess I'm used to other forks were High speed clickers control all high speed events and low speed controls low speed events. I just want to get your opinions on whether or not I'm understanding the manual correctly. And also "real-world" experience from members on the effect of the clickers on the fork throughout the travel of the Dorado as you have tuned them. I'm interested in hearing too how much TPC+ effects the low speed and high speed of the fork. Thanks!


----------



## barrasdh (Mar 17, 2014)

JMSmitty said:


> I figured I would try posting this question in this thread before starting my own thread. Its going to be a long post. I'm about to install a Dorado. I was a reviewing the manual about what the different damping adjusters did/controlled and wanted to make sure my reading comprehension was up to par. Here is a link to the manual- http://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/2012_Dorado_Pro_Exp_Manual.pdf. Pages 9-10 of the manual discuss compression damping. In the manual it discusses three stages of travel- 0-100mm, 100-160mm, 160-203mm. From what I understand, on this particular fork, the high speed clicker does not control all high speed events as is typical of other forks. What I read in the manual, correct me if I'm wrong, the high speed clicker ONLY controls high speed events in the 0-100mm stage. Here is what it says in the manual- "Typically, a "high speed" compression event is characterized by a high shaft velocity incident caused by either the unsprung wheel mass being forced towards bike chassis or the sprung rider mass being forced towards the ground. In the first case the high shaft velocity is caused by the bike, at high speeds, coming in contact with a small obstacle (less than 100mm [4in]; i.e. stutter bumps, rocks, and roots). Even at lower bike speeds, high shaft velocities will be reached on more abrupt obstacles (square edged bumps.). Generally, it is desirable for the fork to be plush (minimal damping force) when encountering a high speed event of this nature and should travel through the stroke with minimal movement translated to the rider. This damping characteristic is set by the High-Speed Adjuster" Then it seems that the TPC+ adjuster is used to control high speed events between 100-160mm. The manual states- "In the second case of high-speed shaft velocity, gravity forces the rider's mass downward, deep into the fork's travel (more than 100mm [4in]) from landing a jump or a drop. This damping characteristic is set by the TPC+ Adjuster. The TPC+ Adjuster is located on the bottom of the right dropout." Finally it seems any high speed events at 160-203mm is controlled internally through circuits, ect.- "During extreme High-Speed events, the rider's mass forces the fork deep into its travel (more than 160mm [6in]). During these severe bottoming events the damper will engage the Hydraulic Bottom-Out Resistance Circuit." It goes on to discuss low speed damping. Seems to be controlled by air pressure AND TPC+? Seems odd to me that TPC would be used to controll high and low speed events!? "A "Low-Speed" event is characterized by a short-travel (less than 100mm [4in]) low-shaft-velocity as a result of changes to the bike's trail stance (i.e. berms, G-outs, pedaling, & braking). The low-speed characteristics of the fork will be dictated by the TPC+ adjuster. Note also that the lower the shaft velocity, the more this condition is controlled by spring force (air pressure). In longer duration events such as braking for several seconds, the AMOUNT of dive is controlled by air pressure, while the SPEED of dive is controlled by damping." So I guess I'm used to other forks were High speed clickers control all high speed events and low speed controls low speed events. I just want to get your opinions on whether or not I'm understanding the manual correctly. And also "real-world" experience from members on the effect of the clickers on the fork throughout the travel of the Dorado as you have tuned them. I'm interested in hearing too how much TPC+ effects the low speed and high speed of the fork. Thanks!


 Dorado expert owner here. In my experience, the hsc affects the feel of the 100 mm of the stroke like the manual says, and the firmness of the fork´s bump absortion. The Tpc+ affects the overal feel of the fork too, but its effect its more noticeable on the later part of the stroke (100-203 mm). Personally closing the tpc+ more than 6-8 clicks untill full closed gave me problems getting full travel, and regarding the hsc, going further than 3-4 clicks untill full closed took bump absortion of the fork. I ended up with this set up, for 157lbs geared up: psi:62 /sag 19% aprox. (don´t pain attention to sag, having 25% like the manual suggest makes the fork very soft) HSC: 4 TPC+: 6-8 dependig on terrain. Rebound: 14 All from full closed. Im very interested in how others set up theirs. cheers.


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

It doesn't matter which portion of the travel you are in. It's a blow off valve/gate/whatever. The TPC+ is basically there for LSC. When you hit something fast/hard enough it disengages. When you hit something really fast/hard the HSC engages. The valve/gate/whatever direct where the oil flow in the fork goes: LSC-nothing-HSC circuits.

For example LSC is to prevent brake dive. HSC is to absorb a huge rock you didn't see on a fast section. While neither are bottom out resistance they both help prevent it by absorbing different types of impact.

When you adjust the knobs you adjust how significantly the absorption in that oil circuit is. You can adjust the blow off/gate/whatever internally but I've never felt a need for that.


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## JMSmitty (Apr 17, 2013)

Yeah that make sense. Also reading the review on pinkbike of the 09 version had some nice pics of the internals and descriptions of the damping circuits. The manual is a bit misleading the way I read it. thanks for the replies


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## yd35 (May 22, 2006)

JMSmitty said:


> Yeah that make sense. Also reading the review on pinkbike of the 09 version had some nice pics of the internals and descriptions of the damping circuits. The manual is a bit misleading the way I read it. thanks for the replies


I don't have a Dorado so I don't have much to add. However, having dealt with Hayes in the past, their customer service is very good. I bet they'd be able to shed some light on your questions.


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

Bump... does anyone have a recommended service shop for their Dorado? Suspension Experts dropped Manitou, Manitou isn't doing inhouse factory service, and I'm not familiar with the following that Manitou recommends (I'm on the east coast...):

Dirt Labs: 720-213-4742 (CO)
Garage Works: 760-966-1048 (CA)
Hippie Tech: 208-724-8949 (ID)
Shockspital: 888-871-2711


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## djjohnr (Sep 9, 2013)

thefriar said:


> Bump... does anyone have a recommended service shop for their Dorado? Suspension Experts dropped Manitou, Manitou isn't doing inhouse factory service, and I'm not familiar with the following that Manitou recommends (I'm on the east coast...):
> 
> Dirt Labs: 720-213-4742 (CO)
> Garage Works: 760-966-1048 (CA)
> ...


I've never used any of the above, but Hippie Tech is a fairly known quanity - the guy's been in business for awhile and he'll do custom tunes.

Another option to consider is Vorsprung which is run by Steve M on the RideMonkey board - Vorsprung Suspension. Read his posts on RM and you can see the guy really knows his stuff. His service offering seems similar to PUSH - dyno based custom tuning etc.

If all you're looking for is a simple rebuild however, any reliable company should work.


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## sidehiller1 (May 9, 2011)

I had my Dorado serviced at Dirt Labs. Very happy with the service.


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

Thanks... rep given.


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

Also, for those that don't know, the first service is included from Manitou. Just call Hayes and if you don't get anyone, leave a message. They will call you back and you can have them give you a RA number. Then, just pack it up and ship it to them. They will service and send back (including shipping). My fork felt even better after getting it back from them. It's a great fork, even more so for the money.


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## IntenseMack10 (May 16, 2006)

thefriar said:


> Bump... does anyone have a recommended service shop for their Dorado? Suspension Experts dropped Manitou, Manitou isn't doing inhouse factory service, and I'm not familiar with the following that Manitou recommends (I'm on the east coast...):
> 
> Dirt Labs: 720-213-4742 (CO)
> Garage Works: 760-966-1048 (CA)
> ...


Whatever you do, DO NOT use Garage works. I sent him 4 shocks (all at the same time) and every single one had to go back 4 times for him to get it right. One of my local riding friends sent him a Fox fork a little before my shock situation and had the same experience.

Worth noting, the basic oil change service on the dorado is super easy. It's a very user friendly fork to work on. If you have new oil seals and dust wipers to install getting their seal press makes the job easier, but can certainly be completed without one.


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## oldranger (Apr 14, 2011)

My thoughts on the Dorado: I think it is far better than any other fork I've ridden. I was using a Marz 888 for a couple years - and keeping it well maintained. I changed to a Dorado at the end of last year and love it.

I find the initial stroke to handle the chatter and small bumps very well. I also am fairly sure it has already saved me from going OTB at least twice. It seems to hold up very well deep in travel. I bought this fork with advice from a bicycle suspension engineer that does not work for Manitou, and races DH competitively.

I don't notice flex - which is a common complaint.


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

I had my old 888 (2011 Ti) "Works" tuned by Marz USA and it was absolutely brilliant at small hits. I've been racing/riding DH for nearly a decade and have never rode anything like it. But it blew through the travel too fast on med-hard hits.

If I was offered a completely free fork. I'd put it between a Dorado and a 40. But I haven't rode the DVO Emerald...and invert like the Dorado but design by the Marz USA guys.

Oh, and call Hayes about service. Even if you're after the free 1 year thing I bet they won't charge too much to just give you a rebuild. Their CS is some of the best in the industry.

*One time Hayes sent my team brake levers instead of pads (part #mix up) and they just said keep the levers, sent me the pads and didn't charge me the extra price difference. They are great.


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## Alexc53 (Mar 29, 2015)

Hi, I just got some 2012 Dorado pros 2nd hand and I'm not sure whether they're broken or not. I know the high speed should move with the low speed adjuster, but the high speed seems to move the low speed as well, and I tried to turn the high speed adjuster once the low speed was fully screwed out, and the high speed knob actually wound all the way out. The needle popped out and all the oil shot out the bottom. I've disassembled them and can't see how the high speed would move independently without screwing all the way out! Must be something wrong?


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## IntenseMack10 (May 16, 2006)

The outer black adjuster is the high speed, the inner dial is TPC. TPC is not simply a low speed adjuster. 

When you adjust the high speed it tuns the TPC with it but does not change the adjustments. When you turn the TPC you will likely need to hold the high speed adjuster to prevent it from moving as that would change damping settings. 

The manuals for the dorado are available on manitous site where all this is explained.


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## Alexc53 (Mar 29, 2015)

I see that turning the TPC+ anti-clockwise moves the needle out and makes the adjustment that way, but it seems odd that you have to hold the outer black adjuster whilst you do this, and that the TPC+ will just keep unscrewing until it pops out and you dump your fork oil. Does anyone elses Dorado let them do this or is there a stop that prevents the TPC+ from turning further that is missing on mine?


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## daisycutter (Sep 18, 2005)

Support | Manitou

correct
The outer black adjuster is the high speed, the inner dial is TPC. TPC is not simply a low speed adjuster.

When you adjust the high speed it tuns the TPC with it but does not change the adjustments. When you turn the TPC you will likely need to hold the high speed adjuster to prevent it from moving as that would change damping settings


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

Are the pros worth the extra 300 bucks over the experts? weight and color is the only difference?


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## Rob-Bob (Jun 11, 2004)

ryanmj said:


> Are the pros worth the extra 300 bucks over the experts? weight and color is the only difference?


Like you said the only difference is the weight..Take the extra 300.00 and buy a season pass at your local bike park.


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## kazlx (Jun 13, 2005)

Yup, just a few ounces. Same exact internals. So unless you really care about shaving every gram. And the stickers come off


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## ryanmj (Aug 19, 2014)

kazlx said:


> Yup, just a few ounces. Same exact internals. So unless you really care about shaving every gram. *And the stickers come off *


booya


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## Ithnu (Feb 16, 2007)

Rob-Bob said:


> Like you said the only difference is the weight..Take the extra 300.00 and buy a season pass at your local bike park.


That right there was the best advice I've seen on mtbr in a while. Spot on.


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