# Cannondale Bad Habit



## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

I have traditionally been a frame snob. I appreciate efficient suspension design and quality manufacturing. That being said I'm looking to replace my aging mountain bike, a 26" hardtail with triple crank. I found a few $4K+ bikes that I love but I cannot justify the price. I'm primarily a roadie but I do want to get so what more back into mountain biking.

My LBS seems to have a great relationship with their Cannondale rep. They take care of issues and can often sell for very competitive prices since they move so many. 

Since I'm a weekend warrior at best, I'm not looking for the fastest XC machine nor am I the most technical rider around. Being in Appalachia we do have a lot of tight, steep,and windy trails. I feel a 27+ bike's traction would be a huge game asset for my riding style. Also I'm attracted to the simplicity of the SRAM 1X shifting. When I look at all of these desires the Cannondale Bad Habit 1 jumps out at me. It has the 1X SRAM GX along with 27+. The thing that concerns me the most is the single pivot style rear suspension. Cannondale advertises the zero pivot design but is it really any count? Will it perform that much different than a Horst link, VPP, or DW-Link? Thoughts and suggestions are welcomed.


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## CUCHI (Dec 8, 2015)

*Victor*

I was in the same state of figure than you, wanting to start changing my hardtail (a Specialized Stumjumper) to make it X1, I read a thread in a forum on the 9t Canfieldbrothers hub with wheel of 28 t for X1 chaining, I was amazed when I discovered all the innovations that this little manufacturer did realy have and I discovered their bikes and their fabulous frames, like the Jedi for DH and the Balance for AM. I'am going to purchase a Balance for its performance in AM and especialy bcause it solved the problem of feedback pedaling, very common with full suspension frames. Go for a surf on their website and read the reviews in the forums on the Balance, the One and the Jedi. These are fabulous bikes!!!


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

The Zero Pivot design is excellent, very efficient and I find it quite plush and active too for the 120mm travel my Habit Carbon 1 has.

I have and do own DW Link, VPP, Switch etc and although these designs are a little more advanced the difference and benefits are small enough to allow you to enjoy whichever you are riding at the time, although I will admit I am a fan of well set up single pivot designs and not a massive VPP fan.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

CUCHI said:


> I was in the same state of figure than you, wanting to start changing my hardtail (a Specialized Stumjumper) to make it X1, I read a thread in a forum on the 9t Canfieldbrothers hub with wheel of 28 t for X1 chaining, I was amazed when I discovered all the innovations that this little manufacturer did realy have and I discovered their bikes and their fabulous frames, like the Jedi for DH and the Balance for AM. I'am going to purchase a Balance for its performance in AM and especialy bcause it solved the problem of feedback pedaling, very common with full suspension frames. Go for a surf on their website and read the reviews in the forums on the Balance, the One and the Jedi. These are fabulous bikes!!!


The Canfield's look great but at that price point I would go with my first choice, the Pivot Mach429 Trail and convert it to 27.5+. I think that bike would be perfect for me but I cannot justify the $4500 I would have into it. That is why I began looking at more reasonably priced options.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Just J said:


> The Zero Pivot design is excellent, very efficient and I find it quite plush and active too for the 120mm travel my Habit Carbon 1 has.
> 
> I have and do own DW Link, VPP, Switch etc and although these designs are a little more advanced the difference and benefits are small enough to allow you to enjoy whichever you are riding at the time, although I will admit I am a fan of well set up single pivot designs and not a massive VPP fan.


Thanks for the input. I cannot tell about the rear triangle on the Bad Habit 1. I think it may be aluminum. Does your bike have a carbon rear triangle? I wonder the the Bad Habit suspension would perform the same or at least near it.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

As Bad Habits don't sit around the shop much, you could demo a Habit to get a feel for the suspension, as it has the same design on a slightly larger frame.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Have you considered a 27+ hardtail? I think Cannondale makes one of those as well. It would save you a bunch of money up front and with ongoing maintenance. Full suspension is not required to ride real trails, no matter what the LBS employees tell you! The Plus size tires take the edge off, but are obviously no substitute for full suspension. If you can get a demo I would highly recommend it. Make sure the tire pressure is set up to you r weight and riding style, even 1 psi or so makes a noticeable difference when you are in the lower teens!


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

mbakercad said:


> Thanks for the input. I cannot tell about the rear triangle on the Bad Habit 1. I think it may be aluminum. Does your bike have a carbon rear triangle? I wonder the the Bad Habit suspension would perform the same or at least near it.


Yes mine has a carbon rear end but the aluminium rear is supposed to have similar characteristics.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

No carbone on mine


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## edge_kw (Mar 3, 2009)

Did you just receive this? Is it a demo?
Originally, I thought Cannondale was saying March for first deliveries.
I'm hoping release is early!!


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, so how do you like it? Have you gotten a chance to ride other 650+s, if so what do you think?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Fatalpine...very cool Bad Habit. I waiting for my LBS to get one in to demo


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

edge_kw said:


> Did you just receive this? Is it a demo?
> Originally, I thought Cannondale was saying March for first deliveries.
> I'm hoping release is early!!


According to our local Cannondale rep, the first pre-orders arrived in November but were sold out, as is the January shipment. When I spoke to him (in October), he said that the next shipment would be out in shops in February, but perhaps those have sold as well and March is the current date.


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## CUCHI (Dec 8, 2015)

I do not know which size you have, but for less than 4K$, look at these three offers for 3K$
Canfield Brothers Balance - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories 2015 Canfield Brothers Balance - Brushed with Black For Sale 2013 Canfield For Sale
One of them will suit you. I am looking for a second hand Balance frame size L, I do not find it in this moment. Its price is between 1000 and 15oo $ depending on its condition and built for less than 2,000 extra$ with super equipment purchased on
Latest Ads - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories 
or elsewhere on the net!!!


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

bikeny said:


> Have you considered a 27+ hardtail? I think Cannondale makes one of those as well. It would save you a bunch of money up front and with ongoing maintenance. Full suspension is not required to ride real trails, no matter what the LBS employees tell you! The Plus size tires take the edge off, but are obviously no substitute for full suspension. If you can get a demo I would highly recommend it. Make sure the tire pressure is set up to you r weight and riding style, even 1 psi or so makes a noticeable difference when you are in the lower teens!


A hardtail would be considered if I want to spend less, however after demoing a Stumpjumper FSR this summer I want to get a dual spring bike if I can.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Fatalpine said:


> No carbone on mine
> View attachment 1034803


Nice looking bike and photo! What do you think so far?


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

phride said:


> As Bad Habits don't sit around the shop much, you could demo a Habit to get a feel for the suspension, as it has the same design on a slightly larger frame.


My LBS is expecting a Habit later this month. Already planning to check it out. Unfortunately their location doesn't allow for a proper try out. Still better than nothing.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

I received it last week, I had pre-ordered the bike in September, I'm from switzerland and i bought it in France. Just two rides for the moment. I'll do a report later.
I changed the chainring for a 28 tooth and some minor other change.


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Here is mine on a rainy day ride:


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Nice! Thanks for posting. What do you think so far?


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Thanks! Super excited, it is fun bicycle to ride.  Rear end is very smooth and surprisingly effective at same time. Front is extremely solid with precise steering, feels actually stiffer than some rigid forks. Only negative comment - low bottom bracket (for the local terrain).


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Here's my new steed. Picked her up today. I'll do the obligatory nature shot when I take her out for her maiden voyage.









One of my riding buddies has the Stumpie FSR 6 fattie. We'll be able to do some side by side comparison.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Obligatory nature shot below. 
Love the bike, threw down a 7th overall in a 1 mile long Strava segment today while riding with an all star cast. (I'm usually in the 20s for all time on my 26" hardtail)

Not in love with the fork (Reba RL solo air), did the weirdest thing. By the end of a 12 mile ride through Lackawanna State Park (pretty gnarly NePa terrrain) it completely collapsed as you can see in this photo. Took the bike home, and checked air pressure, it was at 150ish psi. Repeatedly let the air out and refilled it with a shock pump and after about 15-20 times of doing this, it's back to where it should be. Rode it around the yard, and it seems fine. Anybody else experience this before?????
Also the Monarch RL rear shock seamed to leak about a teaspoon or so of shock oil out on the frame...... Is this normal?








All star cast seen below


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Too bad about the suspension. Would you say your friend's Stumpy was a better value since it is spec'd nicer? Have you tried it out, what's your thoughts when comparing the two bikes?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Yes, I put a couple miles on the specialized, they ride remarkably similar.
The stumpy is better spec'd, but was out of my price range.


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Not in love with the fork (Reba RL solo air), did the weirdest thing. By the end of a 12 mile ride through Lackawanna State Park (pretty gnarly NePa terrrain) it completely collapsed as you can see in this photo. Took the bike home, and checked air pressure, it was at 150ish psi. Repeatedly let the air out and refilled it with a shock pump and after about 15-20 times of doing this, it's back to where it should be. Rode it around the yard, and it seems fine. Anybody else experience this before?????


This is "normal" behavior for original (not serviced) Rockshox in cold weather. Thick grease on air piston seal gets even thicker in cold weather and let air pressure to escape from positive to negative side of the piston. Same thick grease may clog the notch in solo-air cylinder needed to compensate negative air pressure, causing collapse.

Servicing the fork with better grease, suitable for cold weather (as Slick Honey) will usually solve the problem.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Normal behavior or not, your shop should do the service for free and make your new bike ride like new. No self-respecting shop wants their bikes behaving like that.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Talked to LBS shop today (Sickler's in NePa) and spoke to Dave T (absolute pleasure to deal with, and local legend). Told me about the schrader valve on the air-spring side fork leg bottom behind the M6 SHCS for trailside fix. They've seen this before on the solo-air rock shox forks. Said possible causes are: 
1) what ealex said stiff grease clogging equalization port
2) not enough pressure to begin with for my size & weight (I'm 6'3: and 225lbs)
3) or faulty seals 

At any rate, completely ready and happy to stand behind the bike (well fork really). First class place and people.


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

One even easier trailside fix is just to extend the fork with force several times over the “equalization port”. That way all air will be still inside the fork. Works on solo-air only.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Super bummed with the fork. 165psi, and in the first 1.5 miles completely sacked out. Flipped the bike over and removed the M6 SHCS and bled the schrader valve for the negative air side, back to full stroke. Another mile and sacked out again. Bled the negative air side a second time, which resulted in a super soft fork for obvious reasons. Road the last mile back to the truck super slow as the fork was again completely collapsed. Bike is at the shop this morning. 

This is my first brand new bike, have you ever spent a lot of money for something only to have it not work correctly? I realize it's not the shops fault, it's not Cannondale's fault, and I respect Sram for standing behind their product, but I went from super stoked to super bummed. 

My old '06 stumpy hardtail who saw 250 HARD trail miles since August, sits in the corner. You know what? That Tora spring fork works just fine.


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## axcxnj (Jun 23, 2008)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Not in love with the fork (Reba RL solo air), did the weirdest thing. By the end of a 12 mile ride through Lackawanna State Park (pretty gnarly NePa terrrain) it completely collapsed as you can see in this photo. Took the bike home, and checked air pressure, it was at 150ish psi. Repeatedly let the air out and refilled it with a shock pump and after about 15-20 times of doing this, it's back to where it should be. Rode it around the yard, and it seems fine. Anybody else experience this before?????
> Also the Monarch RL rear shock seamed to leak about a teaspoon or so of shock oil out on the frame...... Is this normal?
> 
> View attachment 1036897
> ...


I had a similar problem with a reba from 2012. i ended up getting it warrantied and had the fork replaced.. new one was fine and is still going strong after 2 rebuilds and many miles


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

So anyway got the fork fixed under warranty, super nice guys at the shop, one day turn around. Cant ask for more than that.

Got 45 miles on the bike now, and Saturday was a 12 miler with about 1200ft of vert at Moon Lake in NePA in the wet.

Here are my thoughts after getting comfortable with the bike.

It climbs so easy. Is it less efficient to pedal? Maybe, but I make about 1/5 the mistakes on climbs with this bike. That in and of itself offsets any decrease in pedaling efficiency. Traction? Dozer levels in turning, braking, and accelerating. Rock gardens (which is most of moon lake) no longer exist.

On a sloppy December day with a light intermittent rain, I set 9 PRs on Strava. I pulled a 10th overall on the Pa 29 climb, which is going up NFS.

I'm coming off a 26" hardtail with 2.3"s, and there is no comparison. I am faster with this bike. A lot faster, I used to think it was all rider. The front is got a way more slack head tube angle than my last bike, and this makes it want to lean into the turns. Which is really fun, the suspension squats a little when you rail through turns. This results in a grin from ear to ear. The only complaint I have so far is the relatively low BB height, pedal strikes are common, especially when pedaling while leaning (of course if you've been to da moon, you know why). This really isnt a complaint, and now that I have a little experience with the bike, this can be avoided. The bars are super wide (740mm) and this takes a little getting used to when threading the needle.

Few things I've noticed:

I ride with a guy who has a Stumpy 6 fattie, we get asked all the time how we like our plus sized bikes. Especially by guys with fat bikes. After riding the stumpy and getting familiar with the Bad Habit, there is no question this platform is superior to a 29er with 2.3s and a 4-5" wide tire snow bike. (at least for this style riding)

The rims, they say beast, but they are the WTB scraper, looks like they've been private labeled for Cannondale. They are all set up for tubeless (tape installed). I haven't gone that route, and am not sure if I'm gonna. Still playing with tire pressures, I'm running 15psi front and 18psi rear. I had started with 15psi in the rear, and that's why I know the rims are setup for tubeless. It is very rocky where I ride.

The rear derailleur has a clutch mechanism. This is a nice touch and really quiets down the drivetrain. I still use a lizard skin.

Seatpost has hole just above BB for routing of stealth style dropper seat cable. Cable routing mounts on underside of downtube has extra spot for dropper cable routing.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> So anyway got the fork fixed under warranty, super nice guys at the shop, one day turn around. Cant ask for more than that.
> 
> Got 45 miles on the bike now, and Saturday was a 12 miler with about 1200ft of vert at Moon Lake in NePA in the wet.
> 
> ...


I'm glad you got your fork issues worked out. Thanks for the ride report, this bike sounds more and more like the direction I need to go.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

I had a look at an orange Bad Habit today in the bike shop where I bought my Habit 1 Carbon. It looked like a very nice bike and it still felt reasonably light too. The 3" tyres look an improvement over the 2.8" trailblazers I have on my plus bike (Charge Cooker 0). I bet they are a hoot to ride knowing how playful my Habit is!


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## DirtDiver (Oct 13, 2010)

REI has the Bad Habit 1 on their website for $3K. Then, 10% back as a REI member. So, $2700. Good price. Says 'Pre Order', but that it'll ship in January.

Think other dealers will discount it at all, if in stock?


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## hot_sonee (Nov 3, 2015)

Can someone who actually owns the bike confirm whether the rear hub is 148 boost sizing or not?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I've got the BH2, the orange one. It is Boost 148 rear and 110 front.

I've put 78 miles on it so far. Mostly at Moon Lake in NePa and Lakawanna State Park. I like it a lot. Obligatory nature shot below.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Is there a firm enough setting on the shocks for climbing? Are the settings similar to the Fox CTD?

I'm considering a BH2 purchase this spring cuz price but I noticed the 6fattie uses the fox shock 

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

The reba upfront has a remote lockout. The monarch sl has a lockout lever, but I never use it.


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## Puzman (Apr 1, 2004)

A couple of questions for the lucky few with a new Bad Habit: 

- how much does it weigh? REI lists the BH1 as 32.4lbs, seems kinda heavy. Wondering if that's with tubes?

- would you be able to run a 29+ tire in front? You can apparently do this on several other 27.5+ forks (Fox 34, Reba Boost)


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> The reba upfront has a remote lockout. The monarch sl has a lockout lever, but I never use it.


How would you compare the shocks on the Bad Habit to the Fox shocks on the 6fattie? I think you mentioned you have rode both bikes back to back.

I think I have it narrowed down to these 2 bikes for my first full suspension purchase. I think anyways. I have also been considering the Giant Anthem and Scott Spark.

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Like Foldgers and Maxwell House. Pick your favorite brand and be a d*&k about it. I couldn't tell the difference, very similar. Albeit the stumpie is a L frame and the BH is an XL. That change alone makes it difficult to do a fair side by side. Both handle our terrain nicely. We've set a few top 10s in a couple Strava segments. We can cover a lap around Moon Lake in just under an hour. Resulting in an average speed of about 6.8mph. That should give you guys an idea of what the terrain is like. Rocky singletrack which you suffer through. 
The stumpie does come w 34mm stanchions where the BH's reba is 32mm. The stumpie gets you 150mm suspension travel and the BH gets you 120mm. THe stumpie come stock with a dropper the BH does not. (but it does have provisions for a through frame stealth style cable rounting) The BH is 1k less.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback. LBS had one in that I looked at tonight. Was a large though. I took it for a spin and it did seem to fit me OK. They weren't going to have a medium in until March. I'm 5'8" so a medium is usually my size. 

If anyone is wondering, the large weighs ~33 lbs.

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm wondering, was it a BH1 or BH2 you were looking at and weighed? 
Mine has tubes, but it came set up for tubeless (rim tape already installed) so some weight could be shed there. 
Thing is neither one of us run tubeless. My thinking is, if I get a flat while tubeless, I'll need a tube for trailside repairs anyhow...I get to run low tire pressures with the B+ tires so the lower pressure argument is mute. And for me, the extra few ounces dont bother me. I am running 15psi F, 18psi R. We carry one tube btwn the 2 of us.

The bike is fun, I've got zero regrets.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

It was a BH2. The orange one. 

Weight could be dropped by going tubeless or installing the super light q-tubes. I also researched the WTB tires on the bike and they are a little heavy at 1207g. Between super light q-tubes and set of Panaracer Fat B nimble tires - 710g...probably could drop close to 2 lbs off the bike.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Or I could take a big dump and lose 2 lbs, or I could not carry a quart of water, that's about 2 lbs.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Yes. That works also.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Any more updates on this bike? Is your front fork still holding up?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Fork is good. Only thing I've seen so far was my shoes slightly rub the chainstays when I pedal. This caused paint/graphics wear about half way between the rear axle and linkage pivot. I've remedied this place installing 14mil 3M clear graphics protector over the chainstays where they wear and caught it before it was too noticeable.

I'm in full fledged ski mode now that winter has finally arrived. So mtn biking takes a back seat to bump bashing, corduroy shredding, pow chasing, beer league racing raw downhill madness.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

For anyone wondering about real world weight the medium Bad Habit 1 we have in the shop weights 32 lbs 13oz with tubes and a full compliment of reflectors. Probably a little over 1 lb to lose with a tubeless conversion and ditching the reflectors.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

apat13 said:


> For anyone wondering about real world weight the medium Bad Habit 1 we have in the shop weights 32 lbs 13oz with tubes and a full compliment of reflectors. Probably a little over 1 lb to lose with a tubeless conversion and ditching the reflectors.


That matches the weight of the medium Bad Habit I took for a test spin last Saturday. 32 lbs and some change with pedals.

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Put another 8 miles on in moderately snowcovered/frozen ground trails. Bike handles great. My BB30 bottom bracket has developed an annoying squeak. I've taken the crankset off and greased it, that didnt work. I then applied silver anti-seize, that helped but the squeak came back. On the crankset where the inner race of the bearing rides, there are two obvious "polished" marks where the cranks shaft seems to move around on the bearings inner race, I'm convinced this is the source of the noise. 
The Bad Habit comes with Cannondales' crank, where as the Fattie 6 uses a Sram crankset (the stumpie is a BB30 also)


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

Rode a Bad Habit 1 last night, an easy 1 mile of single track heading back from our group ride. The bike was a medium, I'm a large or XL rider usually, so I felt like a gorilla humping a blueberry! Local shop managers new personal bike (he could've gotten a 6fattie but didn't).

Bike was very balanced, suspension rates front to rear were perfectly matched. Steering was stable, if not a touch slower than my 29er (71 deg head angle), no obvious front flex (I'm just over 200lbs geared up) and was able to change lines mid corner without any problems. Bike was about 8.5-9lbs heavier than my hardtail and it really didn't feel like it once moving over walking pace. The front was easy to pick up and the rear moved around easily enough without any obvious flex, although the trail wasn't rough enough through there to be honest. 

I liked it a lot more than I wanted to. Hopefully the wife will be cool with a new bike in the fall...


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

I have the Bad Habit 1 on order. It won't be in until the beginning of April. I can't wait!


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Thanks everyone for the input. I placed an order for my Bad Habit 1 this evening. The next run of Large is expected April 8th according to my LBS. Like I said in my OP, this will be my first bike in 10 years and should be a monster upgrade. 

I still welcome any feedback and photos of those willing to share.


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Bad Habit 1 with 3,8" Hodag tyres:









New size - 27.5++


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## Puzman (Apr 1, 2004)

Sweet! How's the rear clearance?


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Wow is there much clearance? I bet that thing is a beast!!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

What wheelset? 

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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Hodags are on original wheelset, i45 Scraper rims. Clearance in the rear is ok, but I trimmed side knobs to get even better clearance:








Original side knobs on front tyre:








Trimmed side knobs on rear tyre:








Chainline was tight with 11-speed cassette on biggest rear cog before trimming side knobs. Bad Habit has asymmetrically built rear whees with ~3mm offset so the chainline is ~3mm outer, than on standard boost frame. Means, that chain will probably touch the Hodag on standard boost frame, even if Hodag will fit.


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

That's pretty sweet. Does the Beast of the East have this kind of Clearance?



ealex said:


> Hodags are on original wheelset, i45 Scraper rims. Clearance in the rear is ok, but I trimmed side knobs to get even better clearance:
> View attachment 1049943
> 
> 
> ...


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

So this is really cool and has pushed me towards purchasing a bad habit. Unless the 6fattie can do the same. 

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

I've been trolling this forum and just loving the look of the Bad Habit.

So, after a few "hints", I just got the GREEN LIGHT from my Chief Financial Officer (aka my wife) to be able to acquaire a Bad Habit 2! Very aptly named bike, by the way -- this is feeding my Bad Habit, that's for sure. 

I currently own a Giant Trance 27.5 and this will be a second bike for me (replacing my older Trance 26er). Does this bike ride more like a 29er or a 27.5? I know -- probably a silly question, but I want to make sure this is going to be a much different ride than my 27.5 Trance. I like to vary my biking experiences and it probably would not be worth it for me if it is too similar to a regular 27.5. Anyone else have a 27.5 regular and this bike? Opinions?

Thanks!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

From my limited parking lot tests it rides like a 29er. As do all of the other 27.5+ bikes i have tested so far...6fattie, Fuse, Beast of the East and Scott Genius 720 plus. 

Mostly due to the fact that the outside diameter of the tires is within a few mm of a regular 29er tire so the geometry is built around that. 

LBS also told me a 29" wheelset would fit on this bike. 

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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> I've been trolling this forum and just loving the look of the Bad Habit.
> 
> So, after a few "hints", I just got the GREEN LIGHT from my Chief Financial Officer (aka my wife) to be able to acquaire a Bad Habit 2! Very aptly named bike, by the way -- this is feeding my Bad Habit, that's for sure.
> 
> ...


If I already had a fat bike and a modern 27.5 full suspension I think I would skip the Bad Habit. I imagine you would have a lot of overlap to your other 2 bikes.


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

Has anybody tried 29er wheels on their Bad Habit yet?


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

I finally got an opportunity to see a Bad Habit 1 in person. In a nutshell, what a sweet looking bike. The 3" tires make it look mean!

The paint job looks awesome, too. Overall, a very attractive and tough looking full squish bike.

I am more interested in the BH2, as it has a "normal" fork. As much good as I have heard about the Lefty, I don't want to have to add yet another way I have to carry my bikes in my truck bed.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Other than what's been posted on this thread, I can't seem to find any online reviews on this bike from the major bike rags.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Looks like my preorder has been pushed out to April 15 according to my LBS. Anyone else pickup one lately?


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

mbakercad said:


> Looks like my preorder has been pushed out to April 15 according to my LBS. Anyone else pickup one lately?


I have one on order, too. I was just told "April", but no specific date. Hmmmm. Looking forward to getting this baby!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

mbakercad said:


> Looks like my preorder has been pushed out to April 15 according to my LBS. Anyone else pickup one lately?


My LBS should have one in on Friday. I'll probably be it's new owner.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> I have one on order, too. I was just told "April", but no specific date. Hmmmm. Looking forward to getting this baby!


The date on their system now says April 20th. When I ordered The first week of April didn't sound too bad, but another 2 week delay has me getting antsy.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I just picked mine up today.










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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Cool bike, should be fun. Is that a RS Reba plus fork?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Yes

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Congrats on the new ride! 
When did you order yours? I ordered mine mid February and am looking forward to getting it.



prj71 said:


> I just picked mine up today.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I never ordered one. Bike shop already had it on order to stock in their shop and I told them I was very interested when it comes in. 

They already had a large in stock in February that I had tried out and they just sold it to a friend of mine 2 weeks ago. Then this past Friday they received a BH1 medium and BH2 medium. The shop employee snagged the BH1 and I snagged the BH2. I picked it up 2 hours after UPS dropped it off at the shop. 

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> I never ordered one. Bike shop already had it on order to stock in their shop and I told them I was very interested when it comes in.
> 
> They already had a large in stock in February that I had tried out and they just sold it to a friend of mine 2 weeks ago. Then this past Friday they received a BH1 medium and BH2 medium. The shop employee snagged the BH1 and I snagged the BH2. I picked it up 2 hours after UPS dropped it off at the shop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Lucky dog! Lol. Good luck and enjoy the BH2!

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## espressoluvr (Sep 25, 2015)

Hello, I got the call yesterday. My BH1 is in 3 weeks ahead of time. I'll be picking it up tomorrow. They said they had many calls from others shops trying to track one down.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> Congrats on the new ride!
> When did you order yours? I ordered mine mid February and am looking forward to getting it.


Did you order a 1 or 2? I have a paid order in for a 1 and have been waiting since Feb as well.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

mbakercad said:


> Did you order a 1 or 2? I have a paid order in for a 1 and have been waiting since Feb as well.


I ordered a Bad Habit 2.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

So far I am really liking this bike with the limited amount of time and places I have had to ride it. It really climbs well.

One upgrade I made so far is 740mm wide carbon bars. The stock 760mm wide bars were to wide for me and for some of the trees I have to snake through on some of our trails.




























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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

I had my dealer to call to check the status. They relayed to me that the holdup is on the BH1 large bikes. They said none have been shipped since late January and the April 20th date is still holding for now for existing orders. My order was placed mid February. I'm being told that medium BH1's are currently available.


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

prj71 said:


> So far I am really liking this bike with the limited amount of time and places I have had to ride it. It really climbs well.
> 
> One upgrade I made so far is 740mm wide carbon bars. The stock 760mm wide bars were to wide for me and for some of the trees I have to snake through on some of our trails.


Hi. Do you think this would be a good bike for a first time female rider? My GF is 5' 4", 130# and middle forties. Riding would be in the northeast. Thank you.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I wouldn't see why not. I'm 5'8 and 190 lbs. I'm on a medium. She would probably need a small. 

Like I found out, the bars are too wide but that's an easy fix. 

It also has a 68 degree head tube angle so that makes the steering more responsive and easier to maneuver in tight corners vs. some of thr bikes with 66 and 67 degree HTA. 

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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

OK good. I was thinking that it might be too much bike for her especially when it comes to climbing. Do you know how heavy the bike is?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

32 lbs and some change without pedals 

After the initial weigh in, I weighed it with pedals (cheap heavy ones that the LBS put on), water bottle cage and full bottle of water and it was pushing 34 lbs. I lost a 1/4 lb after that installing the carbon bars.

My next move is lighter tires, A set of q-tube lights, 1x drivetrain, lighter pedals and a carbon seatpost. A set of Rocket Ron tires will save me another 1.5 lbs. Not sure on the weight savings of other components yet.


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

Thanks. Good luck with your bike. We're going to look at one today.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Well? Did you buy? 

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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

prj71 said:


> Well? Did you buy?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


 Yes. She's excited.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Did she get any riding time on it?


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

No. She got it last night. Hopefully this weekend. Do you know what a good tire pressure would be?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Rider weight and terrain are going to determine what's best for her. 

I'm 190lbs and started out at 20 psi and noticed tire slippage on some roots I ran over. I'll retry the same ride again in the near future at 18 psi. 

Discovery requires experimentation.

If your GF is 130# as you say 15 psi might be a good start point. 

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Some weights from my bad habit 2




























Front wheel without tube or tire...



















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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Back in full fledged bike mode. Have about 185 miles on my BH2. Did a 25.4 mile 3.5 hr ride at Rattling Creek on Saturday. 
https://www.imba.com/epics/rattling-creek

We (my Bad Habit and me) performed really well in this stuff. Although it was really hard on the sidewalls of the Bridgers, I can now see the chords. There is a race there this weekend, a 60km and 30 km. I think I'm gonna do the 30km, without any spandex.

I'm 225lbs, I run 15psi front, 18psi rear and had no trouble on some real intense boulder filled rock gardens. I'm running 140psi in the fork, and 225 psi in the shock and I like the compliance I get. 
In the 180miles or so I have nuked one rear derailleur so far and bent a couple spokes in the rear wheel.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Good to hear it's holding up for you so far. I just got mine on March 25 and with the normal bike trails closed in WI right now I've had limited places to ride and dial it in. At 190 lbs I'm about 120 psi in the fork and 200 psi in the rear shock. That may change as soon as I get more time to ride and dial it in.


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## RichMN (Jan 4, 2016)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Back in full fledged bike mode. Have about 185 miles on my BH2. Did a 25.4 mile 3.5 hr ride at Rattling Creek on Saturday.
> https://www.imba.com/epics/rattling-creek
> 
> We (my Bad Habit and me) performed really well in this stuff. Although it was really hard on the sidewalls of the Bridgers, I can now see the chords. There is a race there this weekend, a 60km and 30 km. I think I'm gonna do the 30km, without any spandex.
> ...


What are you impressions of the bike's rear suspension small bump compliance? I've read that the designs that rely on chain stay flex seem a little harsh over wash boarding or multiple root sections.

Maybe the larger rear tire helps with that?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

It's great although I'm coming off a hardtail w a thudbuster. 
I've also read that a two headed Elvis clone married a space alien, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's true......The problem with write-ups is they could be written by a PhD physicist or a 15 year old, but they are again opinions.
My opinion: keep in mind we've got ourselves a few rocky, rooty sections with lots of elevation changes here in Northeastern Pa, oh yeah it's often wet too. The type of terrain we seek to ride punishes flat lander's. The bike handles the roughest of terrain really well, the combo of low tire pressure and full suspension makes it like riding a couch through the woods. The raked out front end geometry makes the bike want to lean like a dirt bike to turn rather than the upright steery nervousness of a cross country. I can say this much in the most snotty sections a regular 2.3 bike cant touch it. I'm a mediocre rider, and I am cleaning the most gnarly sections of trail, and watching the other guys with 2.3s struggle helplessly through them. So much so, that out of the 5 guys I ride w regularly, all of them are on 650B+s, there are two Stumpy 6 fatties, my BH, and 2 Fuzes, the last guy on a 29er was looking at the Pony Rustler today.

So given that info, you'll guess that bc of the terrain the majority of the work the suspension handles is small bump compliance, rather than larger "hits", I think it works well. It will change your life forever. I really like the bike. What are you riding now?


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## RichMN (Jan 4, 2016)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I
> 
> So given that info, you'll guess that bc of the terrain the majority of the work the suspension handles is small bump compliance, rather than larger "hits", I think it works well. It will change your life forever. I really like the bike. What are you riding now?


Thanks for the long reply!

I'm on a hard tail Trek x-cal. Making the move to a full suspension bike this year. I'm really attracted to the 27.5+ size for multiple reasons, winter riding, some crazy rocky climbs on a few trails and the great traction of fatties in general (that's what impressed me the most about some fatties I rode. Where a 29er would wash out, a fattie just ate through those same corners).

Glad to hear I'm over thinking the rear suspension thing. I love the orange color of the 2 too.


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## Deslock (May 23, 2010)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> It's great although I'm coming off a hardtail w a thudbuster.
> I've also read that a two headed Elvis clone married a space alien, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's true......The problem with write-ups is they could be written by a PhD physicist or a 15 year old, but they are again opinions.
> My opinion: keep in mind we've got ourselves a few rocky, rooty sections with lots of elevation changes here in Northeastern Pa, oh yeah it's often wet too. The type of terrain we seek to ride punishes flat lander's. The bike handles the roughest of terrain really well, the combo of low tire pressure and full suspension makes it like riding a couch through the woods. The raked out front end geometry makes the bike want to lean like a dirt bike to turn rather than the upright steery nervousness of a cross country. I can say this much in the most snotty sections a regular 2.3 bike cant touch it. I'm a mediocre rider, and I am cleaning the most gnarly sections of trail, and watching the other guys with 2.3s struggle helplessly through them. So much so, that out of the 5 guys I ride w regularly, all of them are on 650B+s, there are two Stumpy 6 fatties, my BH, and 2 Fuzes, the last guy on a 29er was looking at the Pony Rustler today.
> 
> So given that info, you'll guess that bc of the terrain the majority of the work the suspension handles is small bump compliance, rather than larger "hits", I think it works well. It will change your life forever. I really like the bike. What are you riding now?


Congrats on the new bike! (edit: I see you got it in December... but that's still relatively new)

Coincidentally, I was looking at a Bad Habit 1 (along with a Stumpjumper 6fattie), but opted for a Diamondback Catch 2 due to finding it discounted.

I also came from a hardtail (fattie) with a thudbuster, and decided to go full suspension 27.5+ because my old knees don't care for New England's rocks and roots.

My impressions are similar to yours: these 27.5+ full suspension bikes are very fun, capable, and comfortable.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Front Derailleur cable housing decided to fall apart on Sunday while riding. Not sure exactly what happened here but I noticed it was hard to shift into the top chainring so I left it be and kept riding for the remainder of the day. Upon inspection and clean up of the bike last night I found this where the cable goes thru the guide on the bottom bracket.










Don't really care though. I removed the shifter and cable last night. Later this week I will be converting to 1x and removing the front derailleur.

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Front Derailleur










Rear wheel without tire and tube




























It seems both tires on this bike weigh less than the claimed weight on the WTB site.

Both tires now have Q-tube Super Lights installed.



















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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

My front large chainring has been damaged by a log cross-over some time ago, so I never use the front derailleur. After seeing the pic pjr71 posted while continuing to try to get rid of my bottom bracket creak. (which now sounds like a gang-bang on a worn out mattress) this is what I found. Exact same thing. I also removed the shift cable and shifter.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Yup. That guide inside of the piece welded on the bottom bracket actually rotates around in there. I think when the suspension moves up and down the housing rubs and then eventually wears away.

Like I said, I'm not too concerned since I planned to go 1x anyway. So the shifter and derailleur are now gone. Just waiting to receive my new chainring.

http://absoluteblack.cc/xx1-cannondale.html

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Also be careful removing and tightening the cable clamp bolts. They are made of soft aluminum and strip easy...










I've have since replaced them with stainless steel bolts...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016WQ1CQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_17rbxbTMWYNFV

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

So that absolute black will fit onto the stock BH2 crank? 
because I was thinking of this.....
New SRAM x1 1000 1x11 BB30 Crankset 175mm No Bottom Bracket 32T 00 6118 264 001 | eBay
Then changing the rear cassette to an 11-42 10 speed....


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Yes. The LBS has it on order for me for $60 plus tax

The BH2 has a Hollowgram Si crank and a 6mm offset rear end. There is a warning sticker on the chainstay pertaining to this in case someone puts on a custom wheel. So this chainring is specifically made for that crank and for that offset.

Ai Drivetrain ? Cannondale Bicycles Customer Support

























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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

So then this.....
Swing arm is cracked, near seat tube pivot mounting point, adjacent to weld. Took to LBS, processed warranty claim, part is in stock, expect replacement in 5 days.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Well that's not good. Hope this isn't common.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> So then this.....
> Swing arm is cracked, near seat tube pivot mounting point, adjacent to weld. Took to LBS, processed warranty claim, part is in stock, expect replacement in 5 days.
> 
> View attachment 1062214
> ...


Damn, that's not good. I hope it was a bad weld and not a bad design. I had an issue with my Santa Cruz Blur LT -- that was a bad design and it had many failures. Not fun waiting for replacement parts.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

My concern is that it's not a shitty weld, because the crack propagates from one of the vent holes in the cross member.


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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

So what tyres is everyone running? PSI? and rider weight, all that? I have tried out the bridgers and the trailblazers. While being impressed with the WTB tubeless tyres. I was wondering if anyone had any luck with the Schwalbe 2.8's. I love my Bad Habit 1 but I am still hunting for the perfect tyre.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> My concern is that it's not a shitty weld, because the crack propagates from one of the vent holes in the cross member.


Chris, agreed, that weep hole was probably the culprit. The hole looks tiny, therefore the stress concentration factor is pretty high. It will be interesting to see if the Cannondale design team has discovered that and already have an ECP in place to either reposition the hole or make it larger.

This makes me a bit nervous about my order now. I'm not a light guy either and I ride in similar technical terrain -- Northern NJ with the occasional jaunt to Lackawanna SP.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Whelp, the interesting thing is as of Friday, Cannondale informed me they'll be replacing the whole frame with the blue BH1 version as there are no orange XL swingarms available right now. So maybe they're behind the 8 ball with production, or maybe their swingarm usage is high. 
Yes it'll be interesting to see if there is a design change. I'm thinking the frame geo is proven on the habit, yet this swingarm is unique due to the boost hub spacing.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> yet this swingarm is unique due to the boost hub spacing.


Really nothing unique about that swing arm that I can tell other than that it's asymetrical. From what I have seen, all of the plus bikes have a brace in that area.

I'll keep an eye on mine, but I'm thinking it was just a fluke on your frame.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 during this downtime, I ordered an oval absolute black chainring, 30 tooth
absoluteBLACK | Cannondale OVAL direct mount chainring

This changes my FDR, (final drive ratio). So I'm looking at cassettes with a 42 tooth sprocket. Then I got to thinking, is now a good time to go 1x11 instead of 1x10. If I dont really need anything taller than an 11 tooth on the rear cassette, will this work with my existing HG type hub?
Sunrace CSMX8 11 40 11 42 11 Speed MTB Cassette MX8 Fits Shimano SRAM 1x11 | eBay

I know I'll need an 11 speed derailleur and shifter, but the hub thing I'm new to. 
Help please....


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Whelp, the interesting thing is as of Friday, Cannondale informed me they'll be replacing the whole frame with the blue BH1 version as there are no orange XL swingarms available right now. So maybe they're behind the 8 ball with production, or maybe their swingarm usage is high.
> Yes it'll be interesting to see if there is a design change. I'm thinking the frame geo is proven on the habit, yet this swingarm is unique due to the boost hub spacing.


This is making me a little nervous about the swing arm failure. I lived through this with my older Santa Cruz Blur (2012) -- while the swing arms were warrantied, I still had to wait 3 weeks for turnaround plus I got hit with a cost for the LBS time to change it out. Also, due to one of the failures, my derailleur got pulled into the spokes and destroyed along with the hanger. That was not warrantied and I had to buy new ones.

To add insult, it turns out that Santa Cruz Blur had this issue for a long time and never fixed the design. They strengthened the area in question on the Bronson swing arm. That really pissed me off and I will never buy an SC bike again.

I still have time to cancel my order (since it has not arrived) and get something else. I'm going to dig a little more into this.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> prj71 during this downtime, I ordered an oval absolute black chainring, 30 tooth
> absoluteBLACK | Cannondale OVAL direct mount chainring
> 
> This changes my FDR, (final drive ratio). So I'm looking at cassettes with a 42 tooth sprocket. Then I got to thinking, is now a good time to go 1x11 instead of 1x10. If I dont really need anything taller than an 11 tooth on the rear cassette, will this work with my existing HG type hub?
> ...


Think you can do 40T cassette instead?

The cost of this 10 speed cassette would be less than the cost of a new 11 speed cassette + 11 speed shifter + 11 speed derailleur.

https://www.praxiscycles.com/product/cassette/

[url]http://reviews.mtbr.com/sneak-peek-praxis-works-wide-range-11-40-10-speed-mtb-cassette
[/URL]


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

But that defeats the point of the 11 sp.
Also the BH2 has a sunline cassette on it from the factory, and I dont mind the steel construction. I'm not a weight weenie, (I can lift most people who are over my head) and I'll take the durability of steel.

Will the 11 speed cassette fit this hub? 

The stock small front chainring is 26t, the large stock rear is 36. So that's 36/26=1.385
Switching to a 30t front and having at 40 rear yields 42/30=1.4

Due to our local terrain, I'd like to keep the granny gear.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I'm not sure. Try asking in the drivetrain forum.

Otherwise there is this...

42T Sprocket + 16T [ 1x10 ] - OneUp Components US


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## Clipless in PA (May 27, 2009)

Chris- Eric from the the Rattling Creek ride. Do you think the creaking was coming from the swingarm crack and not the bottom bracket now? Sorry to hear about it, but glad they're replacing the frame for you. 
So you've been doing those Slocum rides on your old bike?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Hey Eric, I'm not really sure, could be. I rode it twice after I noticed the crack, both times it still creaks. I kept a good eye on it and took it easy. I noticed the crack grew slightly after Friday night's ride so I stopped. The last two times were on my 26 stumpie hardtail...I'm spoiled now. 
New frame is supposed to arrive at Sicklers on Wed or Thurs.


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## tim_w_sage (Jun 3, 2011)

I was lucky enough to put some miles on a Bad Habit 1 a few days ago while we were in Moab. I usually ride a 29+ hard tail so it was a fresh perspective on riding. Overall I thought the bike was awesome, much better than the limited times I have ridden other full suspension bikes. Great geometry, fun to flick around, and really stable at speed.

IMG_8427 by tim_w_sage, on Flickr
IMG_8434 by tim_w_sage, on Flickr
IMG_8436 by tim_w_sage, on Flickr


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

tim_w_sage said:


> I was lucky enough to put some miles on a Bad Habit 1 a few days ago while we were in Moab. I usually ride a 29+ hard tail so it was a fresh perspective on riding. Overall I thought the bike was awesome, much better than the limited times I have ridden other full suspension bikes. Great geometry, fun to flick around, and really stable at speed.


Awesome pictures! Love Moab and love the look of the BH there!


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

Fantastic pictures! I can only dream of desert riding. Thanks for sharing.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I present the Bad Habit 1.5.


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## RichMN (Jan 4, 2016)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I present the Bad Habit 1.5.
> 
> View attachment 1064219


That was fast. Nice to see Cannondale step up so quickly. Hope you have better luck.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I present the Bad Habit 1.5.


Chris -- that looks nice. I kind of like the blue a little better. Does the swing arm have the same small weep hole in it?


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## avc8130 (Jul 9, 2012)

prj71 said:


> Yup. That guide inside of the piece welded on the bottom bracket actually rotates around in there. I think when the suspension moves up and down the housing rubs and then eventually wears away.
> 
> Like I said, I'm not too concerned since I planned to go 1x anyway. So the shifter and derailleur are now gone. Just waiting to receive my new chainring.
> 
> ...


If you planned on going 1x anyways, why didn't you start with the Bad Habit 1? Just curious, but the upgrades seem like a pretty reasonable price bump right from Cannondale.

ac


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

avc8130 said:


> If you planned on going 1x anyways, why didn't you start with the Bad Habit 1? Just curious, but the upgrades seem like a pretty reasonable price bump right from Cannondale.
> 
> ac


Cuz price and my OCD won't let me ride a bike with a lefty ,

I got the bike for $2200 + tax and I only have $215 invested in weight loss upgrades. By the time I'm done my weight loss upgrades will still be less than the price of the BH1.

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Absolute Black Chainring installed, q tubes super light installed, Cannondale Carbon Bars, Schwalbe Rocket Ron Rear tire installed, front derailleur and shifter removed, installed Specialized Phenom Saddle= 3lb loss of weight.

Still have to change out front tire, pedals and seatpost. Should be ~5 lbs weight loss total when done.

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I was also satisfied that Cannondale was as prompt as they were w everything. 

AVC Price was the deal breaker. The 1X cost me $72 for the AB ring shipped. Everything else is stock for now. 

Joe, the swingarm design is unchanged. Although I saw my old frame boxed up and waiting for UPS pickup, Cannondale wanted it back. 

prj, what size frame is that.


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## avc8130 (Jul 9, 2012)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I was also satisfied that Cannondale was as prompt as they were w everything.
> 
> AVC Price was the deal breaker. The 1X cost me $72 for the AB ring shipped. Everything else is stock for now.
> 
> ...


Ah, didn't realize you were just going to a single front chain ring and leaving the stock rear cassette. You're a stronger-legged man than I. No way I could push 36/30 where I ride.

ac


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Medium Frame.

Finally got out on my first single track ride today. Really like the way the bike handles. 

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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

prj71 said:


> Medium Frame.
> 
> Finally got out on my first single track ride today. Really like the way the bike handles.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I'm jealous. They are scarce here, I could only toss it around the parking lot.
pity. Love to see how it handles the dirt, especially since conditions here are great (for April)
CDT


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Whelp we'll try it out for real tomorrow. Rattling Epic MTB Marathon Race, for me just the 30k. See how the BH does......(and me too)


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Whelp we'll try it out for real tomorrow. Rattling Epic MTB Marathon Race, for me just the 30k. See how the BH does......(and me too)


Good luck. Hope all goes well.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Whelp we'll try it out for real tomorrow. Rattling Epic MTB Marathon Race, for me just the 30k. See how the BH does......(and me too)


What's the good word?

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I did pretty good, 12th out of 32. My friend and I were the only guys in Open Mens not wearing clipless and spandex. We were the ONLY guys on 650B+ in open mens, which earned us strange looks till we got into he rock gardens and the savagery began. This was my first mtb race ever and I learned a few things.

1) I shoulda been more aggressive on the start. I started toward the end of the field, I wasn't sure how'd I fare against the other competitors and didn't want to be in the "way". (especially after visually sizing up the competition, spandex, team jerseys, Oakley blade sunglasses from 1990, sucking down gel packs before the start, full carbon bikes, custom wheels, etc, etc) I paid for that by being stuck in traffic in the single track. But by mile 3 and rock garden 47, most of the other competitors yielded.

2) I'll never wear clipless. Not here, not for what we ride. I know, I know, some of you will say how great they are, but I witnessed way too many guys take horrific wrecks that simply could of been avoided by being able either to dab quickly, or not having a hard soled shoe slide helplessly on some Pa conglomerate resulting in what I can only describe as an painfully awkward looking mess of flesh and bike in a small boulder field.

3) Somewhere after mile 11 began a 3 mile gravel road hill climb of roughly 1000 ft elevation change. I should have done some road training, as this was not my strong suit, and here is the Bad Habit's Achilles heel, I gave up 4 positions here. I got 3 of them back on the subsequent single track/rock gardens. The cat and mouse game was fun. If I was stronger in this portion, I think a top ten woulda been possible.

All in all it was super fun, very technical, and exhausting day. The Bad Habit performed very well and was superior in the cobblestone road type trails here in Pa. In the rock gardens, it was king. It wasn't the best on the road climb, but neither was I.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Congrats. 12 out of 32 is good. 

1.) How did the suspension work for you in the rock gardens? What pressure are your shocks set at compared to your weight? I haven't had a chance to ride trails with Rock gardens yet. Need to wait another week or 2 for them to open. I'm about 190 lbs and have the front set at 120 psi and the rear set at 200 psi. 

2.) I agree. I'll never go clipless either. I read some studies on it and in the long run the efficiency gained is so minimal it doesn't seem worth it. A pair of 5 10 shoes and pinned platforms get the job done. 

3.) Did you lock out front and rear suspension for the gravel road part of the race? You do lose pedaling efficiency if not locked out. For whatever it's worth I won a 47 mile gravel race on my fat bike last year against those with gravel bikes and skinnier tires. I'm not sure the BH was the wrong bike in that part of the race.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

135 fork, 225 shock. I am 6'3" and weight 225-230lbs. I think it worked well, I stood for most of the nastiest stuff. I want a dropper post. That would have helped a little. I come from a strong moto background, I was very successful in Harescrambles pulling off wins in Vet A. That experience has taught me to go fast in the rocks, keep your weight back. And the faster you go, the stiffer your suspension needs to be (up to a point). Tire pressures 16f, 18.5r. 

Yep 5 tens is what I have with low profile platforms.

I locked out for the road, blew by the aid station without stopping (at the end of the road), got back into the single track and as I was charging hard I thought "man I must be getting really tired, this is beating me up pretty bad". Then it occurred to me, your suspension is still locked from the road climb dummy.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> That experience has taught me to go fast in the rocks, keep your weight back. And the faster you go, the stiffer your suspension needs to be (up to a point).


Interesting. I'm still pretty much a novice and when encountering rock gardens I slow down for fear of crashing.



Big Chris in NePa said:


> I locked out for the road, blew by the aid station without stopping (at the end of the road), got back into the single track and as I was charging hard I thought "man I must be getting really tired, this is beating me up pretty bad". Then it occurred to me, your suspension is still locked from the road climb dummy.


Lol


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Rock garden 101.
I have an unfair advantage as I get "practice" whether I want it or not on a regular basis.

How To Attack A Rock Garden | Bike198


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## paramount3 (Jul 13, 2014)

I'm considering the Bad Habit 2, but I want the flexibility to run 29er as well as 27+. Has anyone tried this conversion? I'm especially wondering how the offset frame/chainstay design would work with this. If I understand correctly, the Bad Habit frame design accomodates a rear wheel with less dish (no dish?). So does that mean I'd need a specially built 29er wheel to fit? Obviously I would need a Boost hub, but it sounds as if the wheel would also need to be dished differently from a "normal" Boost wheel (e.g. from a 2016 Trek Remedy 29 or Fuel EX 29). Can anyone comment on this?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

It has an offset rear end. Right side drive train is shifted over 6mm.

http://support.cannondale.com/hc/en-us/articles/203326837-Ai-Drivetrain

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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

paramount3 said:


> I'm considering the Bad Habit 2, but I want the flexibility to run 29er as well as 27+. Has anyone tried this conversion? I'm especially wondering how the offset frame/chainstay design would work with this. If I understand correctly, the Bad Habit frame design accomodates a rear wheel with less dish (no dish?). So does that mean I'd need a specially built 29er wheel to fit? Obviously I would need a Boost hub, but it sounds as if the wheel would also need to be dished differently from a "normal" Boost wheel (e.g. from a 2016 Trek Remedy 29 or Fuel EX 29). Can anyone comment on this?


As far as I can tell, the Bad Habit does not have an offset rear end. It just uses a normal Boost hub wheelset.

The Beast of the East uses the offset rear and a 142mm hub.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

bikeny said:


> As far as I can tell, the Bad Habit does not have an offset rear end. It just uses a normal Boost hub wheelset.
> 
> The Beast of the East uses the offset rear and a 142mm hub.


Sorry but you are wrong, I checked well on my Bad Habit 2 and the rear end is 6mm offset on drive side.

They don't tell nothing on the catalog but this is. For me was a bad surprise because I already have another pair of light wheels Boost hubs to use but is necessary to re-dish the rear wheel.

So the same if you want to use 29er wheels.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

MISTER HYDE said:


> Sorry but you are wrong, I checked well on my Bad Habit 2 and the rear end is 6mm offset on drive side.
> 
> They don't tell nothing on the catalog but this is. For me was a bad surprise because I already have another pair of light wheels Boost hubs to use but is necessary to re-dish the rear wheel.
> 
> So the same if you want to use 29er wheels.


I've never even seen one, I'm just going by the website information. The BOE specifically states offset rear end and 142 hub, and the BH says Boost 148. So you are saying your bike has an offset rear end and a Boost hub? That makes no sense, you would only need one or the other to get tire/chain clearance, and it would offset the cassette by 9mm to the drive side and require some kind of weird crank/chainring setup.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

bikeny said:


> I've never even seen one, I'm just going by the website information. The BOE specifically states offset rear end and 142 hub, and the BH says Boost 148. So you are saying your bike has an offset rear end and a Boost hub? That makes no sense, you would only need one or the other to get tire/chain clearance, and it would offset the cassette by 9mm to the drive side and require some kind of weird crank/chainring setup.


YES, offset with boost hub. 6mm on the hub means 3mm on the rim. The bottom bracket have offset too. I saw this after already bought and used the bike, when try to use other wheels instead of original heavy.

See message #60 ealex already confirm.

I'm very upset about this, it's nothing written on the website. For me this is a ******** ! I want to change wheels and switch wheels from another bike I've and in the case made 29er wheels too, but is not easy possible because offset. If I had known before, I would not bought.  :nono:


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

This is my BAD custom build. I use single chainring (shape spider with lathe) with 45T ONE-UP rear cog and XT 11-40 cassette. X1 derailleur. Pike 130 fork with angleset (already need a work with lathe because Cannondale use non conventional headset). Changed front wheel. Schwalbe Nobby Nick 3" tires (trailstar front). 150mm sthealt Reverb. The bike is super FUN, tons of traction. No bobbing on uphill and can compete whit enduro bike on downhill, only a little bit brake arm because is a monocross anyway. At the end I'm happy despite the rear offset that doesn't allow to switch wheel. Next change will be new Guide brakes :.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

I took delivery this afternoon of a large Bad Habit 1 which I ordered mid February. This is my 3rd mountain bike purchase in 20 years, literally. In my review below remember that everything is relative.

Brief background
I started off mountain biking 20 years ago. I was a weekend warrior at best. Better described as a casual mountain biker. Several years later I joined a local club which was primarily associated with road bikes. I started riding road more and mountain less. What little technical skill dwindled.

Bad Habit
Since I'm not a racer and just enjoy trail riding I decided to give the Bad Habit 1 a try.

The first thing that hit me was the color. It is much more teal in person. I like the color a lot, but just surprised a bit. The next thing I noticed was the weight. With reflectors, tubeless, and Race Face Chester flats the bike weighted in at just a hair over 32 lbs. I knew it wouldn't be a light bike but this weight was more than I expected. This was also my first time in many years attempting to ride without lipless pedals.

While the weight was more than I imagined, I didn't expect it to ride more like a fat bike than a 29er. It just seemed to role over just about any obstacle in from to fit. The Left Fork was razor accurate, the suspension was very supple and active when the shocks were setup to my weight. I was gliding over sections of trails that were rooted and rocky that used to bounce me all over the place.

I cannot be more happy with this purchase so far. This bike will exceed my ability for years to come.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Regarding the offset rear wheel, the bad habit has a bright yellow sticker on the chainstay. Kind of hard to miss cuz it doesn't match the color of either model. Caught my attention right away the first time I looked at the bike back in February.










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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

mbakercad said:


> The next thing I noticed was the weight. With reflectors, tubeless, and Race Face Chester flats the bike weighted in at just a hair over 32 lbs. I knew it wouldn't be a light bike but this weight was more than I expected.


The stock seat, seatpost, tires and bars are heavy on this bike.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Regarding the offset rear wheel, the bad habit has a bright yellow sticker on the chainstay. Kind of hard to miss cuz it doesn't match the color of either model. Caught my attention right away the first time I looked at the bike back in February.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Unlucky not present on my Bad Habit. But I think is necessary to specify it on the website too.

About the weight of components, yes are heavy. Expecially the wheels with no double butted spoke and very low cost hubs. The rims they call simply "Cannondale beast" are WTB Scraper with different label.

I calculate that with a Scraper on X0 rear hub, butted spoke, XD freewheel and X0 cassette you can save more than 400 grams (around 1 lbs). ?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

MISTER HYDE said:


> About the weight of components, yes are heavy. Expecially the wheels with no double butted spoke and very low cost hubs.


I don't know anything about the hubs other than they work and the engagement doesn't seem bad.



> The rims they call simply "Cannondale beast" are WTB Scraper with different label.


Is this for sure? How do you know?

By the time I'm done with my carbon bit upgrades I think I should have the bike around 30 lbs or less.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Is this for sure? How do you know?


Yes, pretty sure. I already have another pair of wheels with Scraper rims and are equal to those of Cannondale : same profile for retain tire bead (WTB TCS), same spoke offset, same rims ;-).


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

So what would be the purpose of buying a WTB scraper and relabeling it as Cannondale Beast?

I'm assuming they are buying the rim from WTB or you think they found a different vendor and copied it?


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

prj71 said:


> So what would be the purpose of buying a WTB scraper and relabeling it as Cannondale Beast?
> 
> I'm assuming they are buying the rim from WTB or you think they found a different vendor and copied it?


I suppose it's to differentiate from Bad Habit 1 that are high level and is assembled with better components. We should ask to Cannondale's marketing director. 

From WTB for sure, considering that tires are WTB and the Scraper rims on BH 1 have as much custom stickers, blu color same as frame.

Inside of aftermarket Scraper there is a label: "made in china" so not necessary to found a different vendor. I think that the production cost is not high at all.


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## oldgoldtiger (Dec 25, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Regarding the offset rear wheel, the bad habit has a bright yellow sticker on the chainstay. Kind of hard to miss cuz it doesn't match the color of either model. Caught my attention right away the first time I looked at the bike back in February.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This bike is one I'm giving strong consideration to. So, does this cause any other issues besides being able to easily interchange wheels? Are 'AI' wheels readily available to purchase should I choose to build up a set in the future?

Why does Cannondale keep doing this? I eliminated the BOTE because it didn't have a Boost rear hub and now this. I don't like the website omission either.

Sorry these questions are so basic but I haven't purchased a new mountain bike in over 10 years and I'm guessing with college tuition bills coming my way it will be that long again. I don't want to make a purchase that's highly limiting in the future.

Roger


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71, I'm with Mister Hyde on this one. The Beast Rims are the Scrapers. Put a HB1 side by side with a BH2, rims are identical. Put a BH2 next to a Specialized Fuse, Rims are identical. 

Beast Rim is the WTB Scraper. Why? Ask the evil marketeers.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

oldgoldtiger said:


> This bike is one I'm giving strong consideration to. So, does this cause any other issues besides being able to easily interchange wheels? Are 'AI' wheels readily available to purchase should I choose to build up a set in the future?
> 
> Why does Cannondale keep doing this? I eliminated the BOTE because it didn't have a Boost rear hub and now this. I don't like the website omission either.
> 
> ...


148 boost and 6mm drivetrain offset seems new. Might not be any standard wheelsets of the shelf that you can buy, but no reason you can't have a wheelbuilder make one.

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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

No problems with the frame offset. This only requires that the rear wheel have offset too. So you need to build rear wheel specifically and not possible to use standard wheelset as AC Smokin' Gun for example.

I don't like offset because I want to be free to easy change wheels from other bikes, but if this is only one owned bikes not a big problem.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

MISTER HYDE said:


> No problems with the frame offset. This only requires that the rear wheel have offset too. So you need to build rear wheel specifically and not possible to use standard wheelset as AC Smokin' Gun for example.
> 
> I don't like offset because I want to be free to easy change wheels from other bikes, but if this is only one owned bikes not a big problem.


^this.
I figure this is my chance to get into a + size bike. Full suspension appeals to my old body...and in the event this old body can't push all that rubber, I can have a set up 29er wheels at the ready...
kinda locked in on this now!


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

I measured amount of offset on rear wheel of my BH1, it is ~4.5mm, not 3mm, as I suspected, nor 6mm as on non-Boost AI-drivetrain: Ai Drivetrain ? Cannondale Bicycles Customer Support

Wheel seems to be in the middle of the frame, at least in the middle of chainstays. So overall drivetrain offset is 3mm from Boost plus 4.5mm from asymmetrical wheel = 7.5mm.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

I have a BH2 inbound -- hopefully it is somewhere close to my location waiting to be delivered to the LBS this week! I ordered this back in February, so I'm getting a bit impatient now. 

Anyway, I have a question about the tubeless set up. A friend of mine is telling me that the wheels aready have the tubeless tape in them and all you need is the valve stems and Stans. For those of you that made the conversion, is this true or do I need to pick up a roll of tape for the conversion?

Thanks!


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> I have a BH2 inbound -- hopefully it is somewhere close to my location waiting to be delivered to the LBS this week! I ordered this back in February, so I'm getting a bit impatient now.
> 
> Anyway, I have a question about the tubeless set up. A friend of mine is telling me that the wheels aready have the tubeless tape in them and all you need is the valve stems and Stans. For those of you that made the conversion, is this true or do I need to pick up a roll of tape for the conversion?
> 
> Thanks!


I too bit the bullet. BH1, est. delivery Wed-Thurs...!


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> I Anyway, I have a question about the tubeless set up. A friend of mine is telling me that the wheels aready have the tubeless tape in them and all you need is the valve stems and Stans. For those of you that made the conversion, is this true or do I need to pick up a roll of tape for the conversion?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, inside rims already there are tubeless tape installed. You need only valve and sealant.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

MISTER HYDE said:


> Yes, inside rims already there are tubeless tape installed. You need only valve and sealant.


Great! Thanks.
Joe

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Joe, before converting consider what pressures you want to run. I personally know guys who are 200lbs-ish burping the Bridger/Scraper combo at pressures of 16-19 psi. In fact, he's at 22psi and no longer burping. IMO at 22 psi, your out of the sweet spot.

I weigh 225lbs and run tubes, 18psi in the rear and 15-16psi in the front on very rocky terrain. This seams to work really well for me. 

The point of the 3" tire is to let you run lower pressures. That's one of the reasons why these things roll over just about everything in their path and have tremendous grip. Going tubeless and compromising that characteristic may not be the best choice. 

That's my $.02


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Agreed. Just get the q tubes super light. 

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Joe, before converting consider what pressures you want to run. I personally know guys who are 200lbs-ish burping the Bridger/Scraper combo at pressures of 16-19 psi. In fact, he's at 22psi and no longer burping. IMO at 22 psi, your out of the sweet spot.
> 
> I weigh 225lbs and run tubes, 18psi in the rear and 15-16psi in the front on very rocky terrain. This seams to work really well for me.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input. In your opinion, do you think it is be rim design or a weak tire to blame? I'm only asking because I have a fat bike that I used to pinch flat a lot. Once I went tubeless, I could run the lower pressure and I haven't had an issue yet.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

UGH!!!!!! I just got word that my BH2 delivery that was supposed to be "mid-April" is now "End of May". I ordered this back in February!

That sucks.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> UGH!!!!!! I just got word that my BH2 delivery that was supposed to be "mid-April" is now "End of May". I ordered this back in February!
> 
> That sucks.


Oh man, that sucks.


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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> UGH!!!!!! I just got word that my BH2 delivery that was supposed to be "mid-April" is now "End of May". I ordered this back in February!
> 
> That sucks.


Halters had a few of them in stock. I test rode one last week


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

CdaleTony said:


> I too bit the bullet. BH1, est. delivery Wed-Thurs...!


CdaleTony -- When did you order your bike? Just curious if this is a BH1 vs. BH2 thing or I if someone forgot to order the bike and is blaming the extra lateness on Cannondale.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> Thanks for the input. In your opinion, do you think it is be rim design or a weak tire to blame? I'm only asking because I have a fat bike that I used to pinch flat a lot. Once I went tubeless, I could run the lower pressure and I haven't had an issue yet.


I'm not sure. Now I have had a few flats, of course I also have almost 350 miles on the tires/wheels.

I was considering going tubeless for weight reasons until Dave told me the pressures he was at to avoid burping.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I'm not sure. Now I have had a few flats, of course I also have almost 350 miles on the tires/wheels.
> 
> I was considering going tubeless for weight reasons until Dave told me the pressures he was at to avoid burping.


I don't think this is at all typical for Scrapers. Most folks have no problem running tubeless at the desired pressures without burping. That sounds like something wrong with his setup.

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> UGH!!!!!! I just got word that my BH2 delivery that was supposed to be "mid-April" is now "End of May". I ordered this back in February!
> 
> That sucks.


For the price and component spec the Bad Habit 2 is one of the best deals around for a full suspension plus bike.

Surprised Cannondale didn't ramp up production and account for this.

Do any of the Cannondale dealers within 200 mile radius have on on the floor?

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> For the price and component spec the Bad Habit 2 is one of the best deals around for a full suspension plus bike.
> 
> Surprised Cannondale didn't ramp up production and account for this.
> 
> ...


I got a message from my LBS - he may have located one for me and it could be here this week! Okay then!


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

phride said:


> I don't think this is at all typical for Scrapers. Most folks have no problem running tubeless at the desired pressures without burping. That sounds like something wrong with his setup.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I love statements like this..... Do you by chance write for info-mercials?

Most... define please, otherwise you comment is useless. Most refers to what sample size? What rider weight? What rider type? What terrain type?

Desired pressures.... again give specifics, not an unbounded range.

I'm giving a specific person, rider weight, and terrain type. You are not. For all we know you could be the smartest person in the world or an eight year old.

Most car have tires. Most nuns are catholic. Most.....


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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

prj71 said:


> For the price and component spec the Bad Habit 2 is one of the best deals around for a full suspension plus bike.
> 
> Surprised Cannondale didn't ramp up production and account for this.
> 
> ...


Halters in Princeton NJ area had the BH1 and 2 on the floor 2 weeks ago.


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Genesis in Easton has a large BH1

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## Reforminded (Nov 6, 2009)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I love statements like this..... Do you by chance write for info-mercials?
> 
> Most... define please, otherwise you comment is useless. Most refers to what sample size? What rider weight? What rider type? What terrain type?
> 
> ...


Damn man, woke up on the wrong side of the bed?

To echo phride's sentiments, I have set up about a dozen sets of Scrapers tubeless for riders ranging in weight from 145lbs to 260lbs. Most (by which I mean the majority, so more than six at least) of those riders are running between 14-16 psi, with the bigger guys pushing it up to 18-19. None of them are running over 20 psi, and none of them have reported any problems with burping. Two of those riders experienced flats due to cuts in the sidewall but none of them have had pressure loss due to burping.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

World Cup Ski and Sport in Mechanicsburg has a large BH2 on the floor. 

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## Oldgt (Jul 1, 2012)

Local shop has both In stock. Going for a test ride Friday on the BH1 as it was still in the box last Friday. So, kinda hoping I don't like it and can wait to see what comes out for 2017. But I really like the look of the bike. I know I shouldn't but I probably will deals. Then the guy points out a leftover SC Bronson carbon for the same $3000. That would also suit me well for some places I ride. Tough choices.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Did anyone put a dropper post on their BH yet? I have a Giant Contact dropper on my Trance and love it. So when a slightly used one came up for sale, I snapped it up. It bought the shim to go from 30.9 to 31.6 for the BH.

The Giant Contact can be run externally or internally. I would prefer internal, but I don't see any obvious frame entry points near the head tube from the pictures -- the regular Habit has an entry point. Is there a way to run an internal dropper post on these frames?

Thanks!


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Hello, I have a BH1 and the only way I could figure to run an internal dropper is to run the cable down the front of the down tube then up through the hole at the bottom of the seat tube. It works great for me.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

There is an entry point on the side of the top tube and the bottom of the seat tube.



















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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

But doesn't the entry point on the side of the top tube exit on the bottom of the top tube? I would think that would be ok for an externally routed dropper.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

Golddr2000 said:


> Hello, I have a BH1 and the only way I could figure to run an internal dropper is to run the cable down the front of the down tube then up through the hole at the bottom of the seat tube. It works great for me.


This is the right way for me too. 👍

The holes on the top tube I think is for remote shock control (the main triangle is the same of other Habit models).


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Golddr2000 said:


> But doesn't the entry point on the side of the top tube exit on the bottom of the top tube? I would think that would be ok for an externally routed dropper.


Yeah it does. It's probably meant for a remote rear shock lockout.

Although maybe you could continue down the top tube to the seat tube for an internally routed dropper. Unless the dropper post is too long and in the way then it might not work.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> There is an entry point on the side of the top tube and the bottom of the seat tube.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thanks for the close up pictures guys! Yeah, that is what I saw, but in not much detail. So, it looks like you have to do an external route under the downtube and then jump into the seat tube in order to use the internal seat option.

Joe


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

It would be a very sharp angle to go into the seat tube. I don't think it would work to good.

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Downtube might be best bet then.

Also for anyone interested I had a problem with the rear brake cable flexing during suspension movement and the crank started rubbing on the cable. To fix it, I found a product called Cobra Flex Route. Makes for nice clean cable management and you won't get cable rub or zip tie rub on the frame. On the opposite side the cable is contained by my Lizard Skin chainstay protector.

Flexroute Cable Management Solution - Cobra Cable Ties | Cobra Products

Amazon.com : Cobra 1005 4-6.4mm Flexroute with 6-Feet 11-Inch/50-Pound Ties (4-Pack) : Sports & Outdoors


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

I got my BH2 tonight! Yes! She is a beauty, and the paint job looks even better in person than in the pictures. Really sharp. The tires looks pretty darn big, too. My buddy picked up a Diamondback Catch 2 recently and these tires are much beefier.

Tomorrow begins the process of putting on all the little goodies I picked up -- Oury grips, crank booties, dropper post, downtube protector, pedals, etc. I have not decided upon the tubeless conversion yet based on some of the comments on this forum. I'll have to think about that for now.

Anyway, super excited and looking forward to the first ride!

Joe


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Casually skimming the specs I saw 'Hollowgram' cranks...
But it's the 'Hollowgram famliy'... just Si cranks...


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

First ride on the Bad Habit 2 today -- so much fun! My buddy Ed and I took our new BH2's out into the wild today. It was supposed to be only a short "shake down" cruise, but it turned into a longer ride because we were having such a blast. What a great bike!

Pretty much what I expected -- it had the great traits of both my fattie and my full suspension. It gripped the trails like a fattie, but was plush like my full squish bike. The price for this great ride is weight -- this bike is not light.

The ending weight of my size Large bike with a Giant Contact dropper post and XT trail pedals, is 34 pounds (tubeless). While the bike is heavy, it is also a ton of fun.

My only "complaint" is the lockout for the front fork. It is way too easy to actuate and lock your fork out by accident. I moved it away from the shifter and that helped. I don't know if I am going to keep it, as I seldom lock my fork. I may transfer it to my Bluto on the fattie or just not use it at all.

Overall, I am happy with my purchase. This has to be one of the most versatile mountain bikes out there.

Happy trails!

Joe


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

My BH2 is down 4lbs with upgrades now. 

Carbon bars
Schwalbe Tires 
Q tubes super light
1x conversion 
Specialized Phenon Seat. 

I have a carbon seatpost coming and lightweight pedals to change yet also. Will probably be under 30 lbs. when I'm done. 

Last uograde will be carbon wheels. Probably next year some time. 

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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

Nice going prj71.


prj71 said:


> My BH2 is down 4lbs with upgrades now.
> 
> Carbon bars
> Schwalbe Tires
> ...


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

My girlfriend has ridden her BH 2 three times so far and now calls it her big bulky bike. Today she took a fall and got a little banged up. I'm wondering if I should trim the bars and whether or not that will help with the steering. She's 5' 4", 130#.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

At 760mm the bars were too wide for me. My replacement carbon are 740mm. I'm 5'8"

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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

my Bad habit 1 final set up, with reverb 150, xt brake, dirt wizard 3.00, Salsa Bend bar,


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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

*2016 Cannondale Bad Habit 2 Review*

I'm now 2 rides deep into this bike, and I'm already very happy with the purchase.

*A little background*: I can't talk about this bike without mentioning my other 2 wonderful bikes 1.) 2016 Giant Anthem X 29er. (Full X 29er, 2.3" wide tires) 2.) 2015 Motobecane "Night Train Bullet" (Hard Tail Fat bike, Bluto Fork, Maxxis Minion 4.8" FBR/FBF tires).

I have to admit, that the 29er and the Fat bike were a near perfect combination. I found myself generally using the hardtail fat bike in the colder months, and the skinny tire 29er in the warmer months. (but the Fat bike would still get year round use).

I'm a firm believer in having a backup bike, because one cracked frame can hobble up a bike for weeks, and I'm now too addicted to the sport to go that long without Mt biking. The fat bike effectively was the backup bike. I really loved going back and forth between the two bikes, because they were such different riding experiences. And I especially loved going from the heavy Fatbike back to the 29er, because the reduced weight made me feel like a monster rider!! The lighter 29er was always my hands down choice when trying to keep up with the faster riders. However, being 53yo with a bad back, in Northern NJ where we have an abundance of rock gardens from Glacial activity, I'm not that big of a fan of hardtails anymore. Since I didn't want to spend $6K on a FullX Fatbike, I went with the more economical Bikesdirect Motobecane Night Train Bullet (hardtail). And learned how to be very happy with it! But it always gnawed at me that it was a hardtail, and I pined someday for a FullX Salsa Bucksaw fatbike. I probably would have been happy with this combination of bikes for years to come, perhaps upgrading to the FullX Salsa Bucksaw, eventually&#8230;..but the industry had something different in mind for me. &#8230;.Along came the Plus bikes! I was sold from the first day I even heard about the concept a few years back! A test ride of the Trek Stache 9 (a hardtail 29er Plus bike) last year at Dirtfest only added to my curiosity.

Although I was hoping I'd see more FullX 29+ bikes out there, turned out that's very rare due to the excessive chainstay length. But more recently a small handful of FullX 27.5"+ production bikes emerged on the market, and my interest piqued! This was the magical combination of features that could possibly be the perfect bike for me! The Goldilocks bike!. A bike that was right in the middle of my other two bikes: A little lighter than my fatbike. A little ballsier than my 29er. FullX. In effect, I'd get a lighter, fullX fatbike for the right price! Along came a sweet deal at my LBS, and that tipped the scale. I was sold. I had to have that bike! Curiosity got me. I didn't really "Need" it. I just "Wanted" it! I never in a million years thought I'd become such a bike geek that I'd own more than two bikes, but here I am!!!! With no wife to tell me "No", and being fortunate enough to have more money than brains&#8230;.I pulled the trigger in Feb. I bought the (aptly named) Cannondale Bad Habit 2. Took Delivery last week of April. I'm now 2 rides into riding this bright Orange Beast and love every second of riding it so far! (BTW, it looks much nicer in person than it does in any of the marketing pics).

*Setup*: Nothing special: I put on a different saddle (the prostate friendly kind with the gap in the middle). My favorite bar ends, my clipless pedals, my saddle bag, my tiny top tube bag, my Grateful Dead sticker and a rubber down tube protector. Perhaps the most significant thing I did was make the 'Tubeless Ready" tires tubeless! My first foray into the world of tubeless tires. Although a little struggle to dismount and mount the tires, I figured it out and must've been successful because the tires are working fine. The rims already had the right tubeless tape on it, so it was as simple as replacing the valve stems, adding the Stan's Notubes liquid sealant, and puffing them back up.

*Shakedown Ride*: My buddy Joe and I did our shakedown rides together. A 12 miler at Mahlon Dickerson reservation in Jefferson NJ. (Joe bought the same bike I did, and picked it up the same day. Yes, I know, I know. If we had a choice, we would've bought different colored bikes so we don't look like total gorks riding together). We initially stopped a few times to make quick adjustments, but soon we were just banging out a longer ride than we planned on&#8230;because we were just having so much fun! Both of us like 8yo's at Christmas-time, totally in love with our shiny new toys! 
The ride verified what I already knew, that this bike really was right in the middle of my other two bikes! If I put my other two bikes in a blender, this is what would've popped out. While riding, it was interesting to make all the comparisons between both of my other bikes and the Bad Habit.

*Observations & Continued Setup*: 
-I'm still scratching my head on the remote lockout switch for the Front Shock Fork. In my 25+ years of riding Mt bikes, I've never developed the habit of locking my shocks out. So to me, this switch was unnecessary. And because of the action of this switch, I can already tell it'll lead to undesired lockouts. But I'm not going to remove it just yet. Somebody somewhere thought this was important, so the least I can do is use it for a while and see if I have any epiphanies. The two times I've used it so far&#8230;Mehhh&#8230;so I suspect I'll be gone sooner or later.

-Tubeless Tires. I'm running like 19lbs in both. On my other (tubed) bikes, I tend to run harder tires than most other people like, but I don't have pinchflat issues. Because of the tubeless setup, I'm running a softer tire. Between the Full X and the softer tire, it's like riding a marshmallow thru the rock gardens. "Point and Shoot". Although this does nothing to improve my riding talent, it's still really fun to chatter rapidly thru a rock garden and not really be as concerned with "lines". The downside to this is increased rolling resistance, which forces me to pedal a little harder. I might play around with tire pressures a bit to find the sweet spot.

My second ride last night was in somewhat wet conditions. I still spun out on rocks and roots though. I think once the glitter wears off of this bike, I'll reach for the fatbike when it's wet out. Of course, the Plus tires are better than the skinny tires and once again, I realized that the Bad habit was the Perfect compromise for all situations.

-Make no mistakes, the Bad Habit is still a heavy bike. Feels closer to a fatbike than my 29er in that regard. And the smaller front chain ring is a little tall. Forces me to pedal a little harder uphills than I'm used to, and I conked out shy of the top of a few inclines, that I regularly make with my other bikes. Giving consideration to a chain ring change&#8230;.or allowing the bike to force me to get stronger!

-Giving consideration to swapping out the handlebar stem for a slightly longer one. I feel a little cramped in the cockpit. I'm 5'10", 196lbs btw. (This is a medium bike). However, I'm going to give this a little time to make sure I want to do this, as a longer stem may effect stability..

-The cable routing directly under the bottom bracket seems like it'll be prone to damage from rocks flying up. On my other bikes, I've added an adhesive backed rubber down tube protector (a Giant product) which definitely takes a hard hit from time to time. On this bike, the cable housings will take the direct hits.

-The handlebars are the widest I've ridden yet. I'm not chopping them, but last night, a small seedling ended up being grabbed by my bar end. Will take a little getting used to.

-Otherwise, I'd be hard pressed to find something to ***** about. Such a fun ride. All I want to do right now, is take the day off of work and ride some more&#8230;.and it's raining out as I write this!

*Bottom Line*: I'm in love with the bike! But here's the challenge: I'm also in love with my other two bikes! Each bike has a specific purpose, so what'll be interesting is how my overall bike selection strategy will emerge. Give me another 6 months, and I'll have a better feeling on that.

If any bike sits around a little too long, I've always found that it takes a couple of rides to "become one" with it again. That's why I'm thinking of riding each bike for maybe 3 weeks or so, then switching to the next one. (But the fat bike always comes out on wet conditions). Right now, I'm all hot and heavy on the Bad Habit, because the glitter hasn't worn off yet. Will probably ride this for a month straight.

Now If somebody asked "if I can only buy one bike, which one would you recommend?". I'd have trouble with this answer. It depends. I certainly don't think they'd be making a mistake with the Bad Habit 2 (or other FullX + bikes) at all&#8230;especially for Clydesdale riders like me. But I still might recommend a standard width FullX 27.5" or 29" bikes as the "default" bike, since it's so light. My answer on that is a moving target right now. The answer might be "Buy several bikes"


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

> -I'm still scratching my head on the remote lockout switch for the Front Shock Fork. In my 25+ years of riding Mt bikes, I've never developed the habit of locking my shocks out. So to me, this switch was unnecessary. And because of the action of this switch, I can already tell it'll lead to undesired lockouts.


It's there for climbing hills. When climbing and the front fork is bobbing up and down you lose pedaling efficiency. Lock it out when climbing. Move it towards the center of the bar to prevent accidental lock out.



> My second ride last night was in somewhat wet conditions. I still spun out on rocks and roots though.


The WTB Bridger tires suck on rocks and roots. I found that out right away. The knobs are too close together. I switched out to Schwalbe Nobby Nic in the front and Schwalbe Rocket Ron in the back. I put on 36 miles over this past weekend on many rocks and roots and did not spin out once. Running 15psi in both tires and I'm 190 lbs. In addition you lose rotational weight with the Schwalbe tires. To me the WTB Bridger are more suited to gravel/dirt trails without rocks/roots.



> Make no mistakes, the Bad Habit is still a heavy bike. Feels closer to a fatbike than my 29er in that regard. And the smaller front chain ring is a little tall. Forces me to pedal a little harder uphills than I'm used to, and I conked out shy of the top of a few inclines, that I regularly make with my other bikes. Giving consideration to a chain ring change&#8230;.or allowing the bike to force me to get stronger!


Change out components to lighten the bike and ditch the front derailleur chainring for a 1x setup. Absolute Black makes a nice one for the Cannondale Hollowgram Crank. I put a 32T on mine.

absoluteBLACK | Cannondale Round DM chainrings

I'ved dropped ~4-1/2 lbs from the bike and spent $390 to do so with parts sourced from e-bay, this website and pinkbike.com. My component changes are as follows

-Cannondale Carbon Bar
-Removed front shifter/derailleaur/spider chainring and replaced with absolute black 1x chainring
-Changed out front and rear tubes to q tube superlight
-Schwalbe Tires front and rear
-FSA Carbon Seatpost
-Specialized Phenom Saddle
-Xpedo Spry Platform peddles.


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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

Thx for the suggestions! Gonna mill on some of that. Will probably wait till these tires are toast before buying new ones though. They didn't feel dangerous or anything. Just not as grippy as I'd have hoped.

Yes, I did use the front shock lockout on a couple of gradual inclines. I get it. Just I didn't really think bobbing was that much of a problem to begin with. But I did engage it. Now that the lever is right there on the dashboard, I'm more apt to flick it. In the early days, when I experimented with locking out the front shock, I almost always forgot to re-engage it on the downhill. Funny that the very first adjustment I did on the bike was move the lever inward on the handlebar.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> It's there for climbing hills. When climbing and the front fork is bobbing up and down you lose pedaling efficiency. Lock it out when climbing. Move it towards the center of the bar to prevent accidental lock out.


The action on the lock out is strange. IMO, the default position should be full open and you should have to actuate to lock the fork out. Instead, it has a feather trigger for the lock out, which is too easy to actuate and lock your fork out at inappropriate times -- rock gardens, downhill, etc. I did move mine the center of the bar, but I am not sure if I intend to keep it.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

First world problems.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

tonyride1 said:


> First world problems.


Name a problem on all MTBR that isn't


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

tfinator said:


> Name a problem on all MTBR that isn't


Very true.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

EddieZ said:


> Just not as grippy as I'd have hoped.


This is what will make them dangerous at some point. 

You can pick up Schwalbe's for $65 on e-bay.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> This is what will make them dangerous at some point.
> 
> You can pick up Schwalbe's for $65 on e-bay.


I didn't have luck with Schwalbe's on my Trance 27.5 -- The sidewalls failed on my rear tire after only 2 months of usage -- big rip! Maybe because it was OEM?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Depends if they were Liteskin or Snakeskin 

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## FallsRat (Jan 6, 2015)

I am loving mine so far!!!  Set up tubeless, added a Thomson Cover Elite Dropper. Running 12/15 PSI so far is my favorite. (I weight 170)


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

EddieZ said:


> -The cable routing directly under the bottom bracket seems like it'll be prone to damage from rocks flying up. On my other bikes, I've added an adhesive backed rubber down tube protector (a Giant product) which definitely takes a hard hit from time to time. On this bike, the cable housings will take the direct hits.


Are you planning on adding the Giant downtube protector to your BH2?

Over the weekend I bottomed out the bottom bracket going through a rock garden and scraped one of the cables pretty good. One of those cables is for the rear brake. I would hate to see a rock slice open the brake cable and I lose my brakes. Thinking there has to be some sort of bottom bracket skid plate available.


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## FallsRat (Jan 6, 2015)

prj71 said:


> This is what will make them dangerous at some point.
> 
> You can pick up Schwalbe's for $65 on e-bay.


I'm super surprised that you haven't found them grippy. I'm amazed at the traction I get with them. Maybe it is potentially a tire pressure issue?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I ran the tire pressure down to 12psi on the WTB bridger and they still slipped on me. Anything below that pressure then the tires became squirrelly and I could feel them folding. 

For my riding areas they just didn't work real well. Even if they would have worked well I would have changed anyway cuz the Schwalbe tires are much lighter. 

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> Are you planning on adding the Giant downtube protector to your BH2?
> 
> Over the weekend I bottomed out the bottom bracket going through a rock garden and scraped one of the cables pretty good. One of those cables is for the rear brake. I would hate to see a rock slice open the brake cable and I lose my brakes. Thinking there has to be some sort of bottom bracket skid plate available.


Like Ed, I installed the Giant downtube protector. It will protect the aluminum from rocks but will not help the cables, though.

I learned the hard way with my Trance that a downtube protector is a good idea. I also have a bashguard on the Trance. I'd do that on the BH, but there are no ISCG-05 mounting provisions for it.


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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

I'm thinking of fashioning something simple to protect the cables, that ties into the existing cable stays. Some sort of a small aluminum or plastic skidplate. As soon as I figure out something that works, I'll take pics and post here. I just don't like the cable vulnerability in that area.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Got out for a little ride tonight on a local rocky rooty trail.




























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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Was out in the wet last night. We went from a dry spring to raining 10 out of the last 11 days. In regards to the Bridgers (which now have about 340 miles on them). You guys know that after these tires "scuff" in, they grip better. I had no problems last night.

In other words, when to top of the knobs develop a texture, they grip better. This is the 
case for motorcycle tires also. Slick, shiny rubber that still has mold release on it does not grip as well as the dull black that results from say 50 miles of use.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Apparently and old wives tale on tire scuffing.

How To Properly Warm Up Your Tires | Sport Rider

The issue with the bridgers in my opinion is that the knobs are too close together. Because of that there is no room between the knobs for some roots and rocks to fit in between the knobs, thus the tire loses grip and slips. It was really bad on the front tire for me.

When I switched to the Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron it was a 150% improvement. My front tire hasn't slipped yet with the NN. Definately sold on that tire. That and the Schwalbe's are much lighter so less rotational weight to pedal.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Apparently and old wives tale on tire scuffing.
> 
> How To Properly Warm Up Your Tires | Sport Rider
> 
> ...


You want to sell me your bridgers? I mean as horrible as they are, you should probably distance yourself from them you know for saftey's sake.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> You want to sell me your bridgers? I mean as horrible as they are, you should probably distance yourself from them you know for saftey's sake.


Sold one already and the other is up for sale now if you're interested.

Less than 100 miles on the tire. $40 shipped in lower 48.

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

yes, interested PM me


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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

EddieZ said:


> I'm thinking of fashioning something simple to protect the cables, that ties into the existing cable stays. Some sort of a small aluminum or plastic skidplate. As soon as I figure out something that works, I'll take pics and post here. I just don't like the cable vulnerability in that area.


I made a simple aluminum skid plate... It uses the bolt that goes thru the existing cablestays. Just lays right on top of 'em. Kind of a thin guage AL, that was just barely bendable by hand. We'll see how that works. 








And then while I was poking around the internet, I found this interesting hack: Uses an old tire and zip ties!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Aluminum has more of a tendancy to stick to rocks as opposed to sliding over them. Also the bolts should be countersunk so they don't get banged and damaged. Especially the black one which is aluminum. 

I changed mine out to stainless steel since I stripped the head on one of the aluminum ones. 

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## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

I really like the BH1, and i hope it will be my next bike. 
But I am a bit concerned about the weight, worrying it will feel heavy and slow?

I have read that a Large weights around 14,5 kg, is that all in the wheels?
Is the frameset for the BH1 much heavier than for instance a Habit 4?
Is it just the heavy wheels that make it so heavy?

My plan (if I buy one) is to go tubeless and change tyres for Rocket Ron 3.0 (830g) that would shave of about 1,5 kg. But still it’s quite heavy?

I know it’s not so important, just curious…


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

My BH2 medium weighed 33 lbs and some change. I wouldn't say that it feels heavy and slow but when you do drop some weight from it, it is noticeable especially when climbing. I've dropped 4-1/2 pounds from mine with the upgrades in the list below The wheels are heavy and I plan to get carbon wheels when I have some money.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Here are the wheel weights with no tires or tubes.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Aluminum has more of a tendancy to stick to rocks as opposed to sliding over them. Also the bolts should be countersunk so they don't get banged and damaged. Especially the black one which is aluminum.
> 
> I changed mine out to stainless steel since I stripped the head on one of the aluminum ones.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I call bull sh*t. You should tell that to these guys.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search?term=skid+plate
I am first a dirt bike guy, second a mtn biker. Virtually every mx/off road/enduro skid plate is made from aluminum. (except for the carbon ones which are for the guys with more money than brains or a factory ride) How much a dirt bike guy? I am the District 6 2002 Open B Harescramble Champ.

The info regarding stripping your bolts, tells me much about the condition of the tools you own and your mechanical aptitude.

This is also my sight. 
RPERacing


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## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

Thanks


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I call bull sh*t. You should tell that to these guys.
> https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search?term=skid+plate
> I am first a dirt bike guy, second a mtn biker. Virtually every mx/off road/enduro skid plate is made from aluminum. (except for the carbon ones which are for the guys with more money than brains or a factory ride) How much a dirt bike guy? I am the District 6 2002 Open B Harescramble Champ.
> 
> ...


Dude...Why so much anger?

Take an aluminum canoe down the river and run over some rocks with it. An aluminum canoe will more often come to a dead stop trying to slide over rocks. I know this from experience. Now take a canoe made of polyethylene over the same rocks and it will slide. Not that the aluminum skid plate won't work and do the job but it won't slide over rocks as easy if you bottom out.

The same thing happens when you use the aluminum pedals vs. plastic pedals. I have had pedal strikes with an aluminum pedal that have almost thrown me off the bike because the pedal sticks to the rock instead of sliding over, where as the plastic ones will slide instead of stick. This is just simple material physics.

My mechanical abilities are fine. Thank you. Cannondale used cheap aluminum bolts for the cable clamps on the down tube. One of my clamps was loose when I first bought the bike and when I went to tighten it up, it stripped out right away. The bike shop where I bought the bike from...The mechanic there had the same problem on his BH1 and changed out the bolts as well.

As far as your link for the ATV skid plates...an ATV has power to push through a rock hit and an aluminum skid plate on an ATV is more durable on machine that weighs 600-800 lbs and is traveling at a much greater speed than a bike. I used to ride ATV for many years so I know this.

Someone pedaling on a trail between 5 and 10mph may not have enough momentum or power to push through a rock hit with an aluminum skid plate and may come to a stop and possibly get thrown off the bike.

Your motorized dirt bike credentials mean nothing in this discussion about mountain bikes. 2 totally different things. You need to lighten up.


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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

You'll notice in the picture of my AL skidplate, that one of the bolts is different. The bolt stripped after only the second removal. The bolts are AL too, so they're kind of weak. 

The skidplate I designed wasn't thick enough to put countersinks in. Yes, flat top screws flush with the surface would've been nicer, but that would've driven the thickness and weight of the skidplate. I have the feeling what I've done is fine for cable protection. 

I'll report back in a few weeks if this starts to suck, and if I've taken any next steps.


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## avc8130 (Jul 9, 2012)

EddieZ said:


> You'll notice in the picture of my AL skidplate, that one of the bolts is different. The bolt stripped after only the second removal. The bolts are AL too, so they're kind of weak.
> 
> The skidplate I designed wasn't thick enough to put countersinks in. Yes, flat top screws flush with the surface would've been nicer, but that would've driven the thickness and weight of the skidplate. I have the feeling what I've done is fine for cable protection.
> 
> I'll report back in a few weeks if this starts to suck, and if I've taken any next steps.


Ed,

My only fear would be catching a bolt on an immovable trail item and damaging the frame threads in the process.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

EddieZ said:


> You'll notice in the picture of my AL skidplate, that one of the bolts is different. The bolt stripped after only the second removal. The bolts are AL too, so they're kind of weak.


Yes. Exactly. It doesn't take much to round out the hex in the head of the bolts.

This is what I replaced them with.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016WQ1CQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DwGmxbE843CHM

Your tools and mechanical aptitude must totally suck. 

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## RichMN (Jan 4, 2016)

EddieZ said:


> I made a simple aluminum skid plate... It uses the bolt that goes thru the existing cablestays. Just lays right on top of 'em. Kind of a thin guage AL, that was just barely bendable by hand. We'll see how that works.
> View attachment 1068724
> 
> 
> ...


Or they could just do like Trek and put a bottom protector on from the factory. ;-)


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> My BB30 bottom bracket has developed an annoying squeak. I've taken the crankset off and greased it, that didnt work. I then applied silver anti-seize, that helped but the squeak came back. On the crankset where the inner race of the bearing rides, there are two obvious "polished" marks where the cranks shaft seems to move around on the bearings inner race, I'm convinced this is the source of the noise.


Did you ever fix this problem before you got your replacement frame?

Mine started creaking last night for the first time. Planning on taking it apart tonight and re-greasing everything.


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## Hjalmar (May 11, 2016)

I just ordered myself an Bad Habit 2. Whoohoo. Haven't got an delivery date yet but stoked to finally have put the order in for one. It's been 16 years since the last purchase.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> Aluminum has more of a tendancy to stick to rocks as opposed to sliding over them. Also the bolts should be countersunk so they don't get banged and damaged. Especially the black one which is aluminum.
> 
> I changed mine out to stainless steel since I stripped the head on one of the aluminum ones.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I would not worry about aluminum skidding or the bolt damage from skidding. That is really high up on the frame. This is to protect the cables against flying rock damage. I have a few dings in my Trance from rocks being kicked up into the downtube from my front tire. This plate should help that.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

That plate goes down below the bottom bracket. He has effectively lowered his bottom bracket. 

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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

prj71 said:


> That plate goes down below the bottom bracket. He has effectively lowered his bottom bracket.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Well , I guess his BB height is the same, IE the centerline of the BB to the ground. However yes, his ground clearance would be diminished.....


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

CdaleTony said:


> Well , I guess his BB height is the same, IE the centerline of the BB to the ground. However yes, his ground clearance would be diminished.....


Yeah, that's what I meant.

:thumbsup:


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I picked up a Bad Habit 1 demo bike today and took it for my normal ride. Overall I am faster on this bike than I am my 2016 Trek EX8 27.5 and I had a best overall time on one of the segments I ride and I haven't ridden a bike in 4 months. I will probably buy one now and sale my Trek. I have thought trading for a Stumpy Comp Fattie6 or just getting a BOTE2 and keeping the Trek also.

Compare to the Trek EX8 I am able to get around switchbacks with the Bad Habit better and the rocks and roots are non existent. I rode with the rear shock in the stiffest setting. I should of asked more about the bike before I took it instead of rushing to get to the trail. I feel I can keep more momentum on climbs also

It is heavy compared to the Trek and the trek is stock other than being tubeless and it has bigger tires than what came on it.

I have not seen a BOTE or a Fattie6 in person so I can't compare this bike to them


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Has anyone bought wheels for their Bad Habit? If so what did you get


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Dude...Why so much anger?
> 
> Take an aluminum canoe down the river and run over some rocks with it. An aluminum canoe will more often come to a dead stop trying to slide over rocks. I know this from experience. Now take a canoe made of polyethylene over the same rocks and it will slide. Not that the aluminum skid plate won't work and do the job but it won't slide over rocks as easy if you bottom out.
> 
> ...


Why so mad? Because stupidity offends me......

Making a statement like an aluminum skid plate sticks to roots is ludicrous. The dirt bike reference was meant to add credentials to the fact that virtually every offroad skid plate is aluminum. Tons of precedence, where is the data to support the other claim?

I am continually amazed by the mechanical ineptitude of the bicycle community. Boy's they're aluminum bolts. If they weren't somebody would have a pic of them on a digi scale proclaiming they found a way to save 8 grams. That' means the rusty multitool from your camel back probably isn't the best choice. A nice, quality, new set of metric allens is the way to fly here. It also means the torque values are different than steel bolts. Since the nut-serts into the frame are steel, an application of anti-seize would be wise.

Also, installing a flat head screw into a non-counter sunk hole is a complete misapplication of the fastener, have you considered a button head screw. The material you've chosen is not thick enough to effectively countersink.

Just call me mister angry.

Nut serts=http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nutserts_s/141.htm


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Make sure to use anti seize or no locks if using Stainless steel bolt. I can drill out an aluminum bolt and clean threads easier than I could stainless. I've broken many stainless and aluminum bolts that seized up over the years. Luckily none were on bicycles.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Why so mad? Because stupidity offends me......


No stupid statements were made.



> Making a statement like an aluminum skid plate sticks to roots is ludicrous.


On a slow moving bike an aluminum skid plate will stick to rocks more than it will slide. That's just simple physics. Aluminum is malleable. It's the reason you don't see people running class 3-4 rapids in an aluminum kayak or canoe.

But since you don't believe me...See post #13...

UHMW vs Aluminum? - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net

A protector on a bike should be of a material thats strong yet slides such as polypropylene/uhmw



> The dirt bike reference was meant to add credentials to the fact that virtually every offroad skid plate is aluminum. Tons of precedence, where is the data to support the other claim?


You're referring to an object moving at higher rate speed that has the power, weight and momentum to push over a rock hit and either slide or dent the skid plate. A person running through a rock garden on a bike at 5-10 mph doesn't have enough momentum or power to do that.



> I am continually amazed by the mechanical ineptitude of the bicycle community. Boy's they're aluminum bolts. If they weren't somebody would have a pic of them on a digi scale proclaiming they found a way to save 8 grams. That' means the rusty multitool from your camel back probably isn't the best choice.


You need to come down from your high horse and quit acting like a d!ck. I'm not the only in this thread that stripped those cheap aluminum bolts, so did the bike mechanic at the LBS where I bought the bike on his own BH1. They are junk bolts.



> A nice, quality, new set of metric allens is the way to fly here. It also means the torque values are different than steel bolts. Since the nut-serts into the frame are steel, an application of anti-seize would be wise.


Already have a nice set of craftsmen metric allens that are only 4 months old.



> Just call me mister angry.


No kidding. You're all butt hurt.


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## mbakercad (Aug 4, 2004)

I'm wondering about different wheels as well. I'd like to explore the cost of having a set of 29ers built for it. Mainly because my fiancé likes riding rail trails and some local gravel rides I'd like to explore. I'm thinking the weight savings of smaller wheels and smoother tires may be beneficial but i'm wondering how much would it really help.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

mbakercad said:


> I'm wondering about different wheels as well. I'd like to explore the cost of having a set of 29ers built for it. Mainly because my fiancé likes riding rail trails and some local gravel rides I'd like to explore. I'm thinking the weight savings of smaller wheels and smoother tires may be beneficial but i'm wondering how much would it really help.


I looked at Industry Nine website last night and seen that The Hugo wheel set weighs 1905 which is lighter than just the rear wheel that comes on the Bad Habit going by what the weight was posted above. I realize the weight above is with the cassette and brake rotor but they don't weigh that much.

I am not sure about the 52mm outside width though. What is the outside diameter of the Scraper? I am guessing the inside is 45 or is that the outside diameter


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

I am pretty sure that's internal width. 


Jason 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Floyd298 said:


> I am pretty sure that's internal width.
> 
> Jason
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Yeah thats what I figured. The I9 wheels are 49.9mm


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

I just picked up my BH1 today. Now I just need some dry weather to hit the trails. Really like this bike. 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Floyd298 said:


> I just picked up my BH1 today. Now I just need some dry weather to hit the trails. Really like this bike.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thats awesome!! Hopefully mine will come in tuesday and get put together. I can't figure out what all I want to do to the bike other than change tires and go with q tubes or possibly tubeless. I have been riding tubeless for a few years now even on my road bike


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Thanks. I think I am going tubeless. Never had a flat since I've been tubeless. Only change for me will be some esi chunky grips and maybe some carbon handlebars and seat post. 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Floyd298 said:


> Thanks. I think I am going tubeless. Never had a flat since I've been tubeless. Only change for me will be some esi chunky grips and maybe some carbon handlebars and seat post.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I can't make up my mind whether to get a dropper post or a carbon one. I will most likely change the saddle to a lighter one and possibly the handlebar but the handlebar isn't a priority yet. I want to swap wheels also but i am not in a hurry to spend that kind of money after buying another bike.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

I had a dropper on my giant anthem. I really liked it. I just want to try to lighten this up a little and see how it feels. Lighter wheels would be sweet but $$$$. Good luck. Enjoy the new ride. 

Jason

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## jga013 (Nov 2, 2015)

Picked up a Bad Habit 2 Saturday morning and have been out for a couple decent rides. I'm really liking it so far.

The local trails here have a lot of roots and I wanted something that would roll over them better. Despite the weight (weighed 34.5 lbs at the LBS for size large with pedals) I feel like I'm definitely faster than I was on my 29er hardtail. Once you get those big tires rolling the momentum just carries you up and over all those roots and ridges that seemed to really slow and hangup the 29er.

It rained last night and I was a little disappointed with the Bridgers traction on the wet roots. They spun out more than I was expecting, but still better then 2.1" XC tires. Still playing with the the air pressure in the tires. I started out with 14f & 16r and then dropped them to 11f and 12.5r, which seemed OK (I'm roughly 185 lbs). I don't think I'll go any lower. The Bridgers seem pretty burly. I think they'll hold up good against the rocks. Though I think I will be looking for something lighter in the near future and setting it up tubeless to get the weight down. I'd like to have the bike a little closer to 30 lbs.

I like the 2x10 drivetrain. I had thought I wanted a 1x system, but for most of them you lose too much top end or have too big of a gap between gears. I don't spend that much time in the higher gears, but it's really nice to have them for the short paved connectors and gravel roads. I'm impressed with how well this bike rolls on the road. I thought there would be a lot more resistance, but it doesn't seem that much worse than my 29er.

Overall I very happy with the bike. It really suits the type of riding I do.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The Bridgers suck over roots and rocks. I got rid of them and put Nobby Nic On front and Rocket Ron on back. It was night and day difference in gription and they are a lot lighter. 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I picked up the Bad Habit 1 today and went straight to the mtn to ride. I am glad I bought this one after riding it for the first time and can't wait to change a few things and get the weight down. I have Carbon post and handlebars on order and might swap wheels but I am not sure. 

What is the wheel offset I would need when I ordered wheels? 3 or 6mm? It thought I read 3 somewhere and 6 another time so I am just wondering


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Spokes are centered. Hub is centered just like the front wheel. Hub/Cassette is shifted 6mm. Look at your chain stays and you you will notice the drive side is shifted over. 

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

jga013 said:


> I like the 2x10 drivetrain. I had thought I wanted a 1x system, but for most of them you lose too much top end or have too big of a gap between gears.


Watch your cable housing under the bottom bracket. Mine fell apart.

See post 102 and 104.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/cannondale-bad-habit-997329-5.html

Ride enough and you'll discover you don't need the 22T chainring. I converted to 1x with 32T. Made for our bikes with the offset rear end...choices of 28T to 34T...

absoluteBLACK | Cannondale Round DM chainrings


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

My bike now that I swapped to Easton ec90 bar, evidence chunky grips and swapped the tires to nobby nic. I have tubeless valve stems and a easton ec90 seat post on the way. I weighed my bike yesterday and it showed 29.4lbs which I thought was low for the way it came. I will weigh it again now that I have changed a few things and see if I lost any weight. I am not sure that the nobby nic is any lighter than the Bridger but they definitely look more aggressive. I'm waiting on a reply from industry nine on wheel pricing


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Looks good man. Let me know what you think of the nic's. Gonna be camping and riding all weekend so I'll give the Bridgers a shot. They seem pretty hefty though. 

Jason

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Nobby Nic is about 300 grams lighter than the Bridger.










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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I guess I can't feel the difference in .76lbs. Overall my bike is 2lbs lighter than it was stock with pedals using a digital scale. I will see where I am once I go tubeless and swap seat post but I think I am about as low as I can go. I am still using the tubes that came with the bike right now. I haven't found any of the q-tubes superlight that work with 3.00 tires yet to try them.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Floyd298 said:


> Looks good man. Let me know what you think of the nic's. Gonna be camping and riding all weekend so I'll give the Bridgers a shot. They seem pretty hefty though.
> 
> Jason
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I will reply back in a few days after I ride again.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

wcoyne said:


> I guess I can't feel the difference in .76lbs. Overall my bike is 2lbs lighter than it was stock with pedals using a digital scale. I will see where I am once I go tubeless and swap seat post but I think I am about as low as I can go. I am still using the tubes that came with the bike right now. I haven't found any of the q-tubes superlight that work with 3.00 tires yet to try them.


Here you go. I have them in my bad habit 2 with 27.5 x 3 Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron. You don't need 27.5 x 3.0 tubes. They stretch.

When you drop weight from the bike, especially rotational weight, you'll notice the difference in the climbs.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=70487&category=5805










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## jga013 (Nov 2, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Watch your cable housing under the bottom bracket. Mine fell apart.
> 
> See post 102 and 104.
> 
> ...


Just noticed that mine has come apart too. Pretty disappointing considering I've only had it on the trail 3 times. It was shifting onto the large chain ring poorly even on my first ride, so it was probably failing already then.

You've got me thinking about also changing to 1x. I was playing with Sheldon Brown's gear calculator last night. I'd have to go with a 28T chain ring if I keep my current cassette. With that I'd loose 1/2 a gear off the bottom end and 2 gears off the top end vs what I have with the current 26/36 to 11-36 2x10 system. The 32T would be nice for top end, but I'd loose two full gears worth of range off the bottom. The trails here have too many steep climbs and I need those bottom gears often. Maybe an extender cog or just go 11-42 11 speed.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Yup. The cable guide is a bad design 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Here you go. I have them in my bad habit 2 with 27.5 x 3 Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron. You don't need 27.5 x 3.0 tubes. They stretch.
> 
> When you drop weight from the bike, especially rotational weight, you'll notice the difference in the climbs.
> 
> ...


I've seen those but figured they would be stretched too much and be weak so I didn't order them. I might order some to use if I have trouble tubeless.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I use 26 x 2.7 q tube lite in my 26 x 4.6 fat bike tires. They stretch. 

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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Floyd298 said:


> Looks good man. Let me know what you think of the nic's. Gonna be camping and riding all weekend so I'll give the Bridgers a shot. They seem pretty hefty though.
> 
> Jason
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I rode today with the Nobby Nics and they definitely have more traction and seems to roll over rocks and roots better than the Bridgers. I need to play with the tire pressure and also shock rebound some but I think the bike is the most fun one I have owned so far.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Thanks for the update. Gonna have to make an order later this week. 

Jason

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Bearing came apart on rear shock pivot today. Noticed it after my suspension started making sounds like a turkey call. Back to LBS for warranty work...










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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

After tonights ride I noticed swingarm number 2 shot in the a$$
Failure location is identical to the first one. see post #109


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> After tonights ride I noticed swingarm number 2 shot in the a$$
> Failure location is identical to the first one. see post #109


That sucks a$$ for sure. I will have to pay more attention to mine and hope i don't have that issue


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, I got a whole two months and about 150 miles out of this one.  (there is a definite need for a sarcastic font)


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## Chub (Mar 14, 2012)

prj71 said:


> Bearing came apart on rear shock pivot today. Noticed it after my suspension started making sounds like a turkey call. Back to LBS for warranty work...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had the exact same issue on my BH1 twice.
After the second failure my LBS replaced the rocker-link. It has been ok for 4 weeks but I'm keeping an eye on it


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Bearing came apart on rear shock pivot today. Noticed it after my suspension started making sounds like a turkey call. Back to LBS for warranty work...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The ball bearing in your linkage is a wear item, as are all bearings are. Your failure was caused by water ingress. Try not to bear down on that area with the pressure washer/garden hose. It is a 2rs seal type bearing I'd make a comment about common sense and machines, but I fear it would be lost on you, and I'd get some childish report card.

bearing seal types: Bearing Closures - Bearing Seals and Bearing Shields | AST Bearings


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> The ball bearing in your linkage is a wear item, as are all bearings are. Your failure was caused by water ingress. Try not to bear down on that area with the pressure washer/garden hose. It is a 2rs seal type bearing I'd make a comment about common sense and machines, but I fear it would be lost on you, and I'd get some childish report card.
> 
> bearing seal types: Bearing Closures - Bearing Seals and Bearing Shields | AST Bearings


Thats a bit heavy handed, no?
I've got a FS Cdale (2009 Rize 1) and I;ve hosed it ALOT.. and I have had ZERO bearing issues..I cannot imagine a scenario where he blasted that so bad that it disintegrated in a matter of months...
Hell, I'd like to know how many miles it took before it failed like that.... It isn't an application where they are spinning 1750 RPM.... Maybe they spec'ed the wrong bearing...


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The bike is a little over 2 months old. No high pressure washer

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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

That failure was not caused by water ingress,not in the amount of time he has owned that bike. That is caused by either bad design,alignment issue or bad bearing choice


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm 6'2" and weigh 225lbs, I've logged almost 400 miles on mine, I've broken 2 swingarms.
The bearings in my linkage are fine. 
prj71 must be doing something different.
Bearing failures of this type are caused when the balls corrode and the bearings are cycled (turned). The repeated grinding of the balls in a wet/oil/rust bath makes them undersized to the point they can escape out of the bearing raceways. The bearing then fails in this manner. 

Offer another logical explanation.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I'm 6'2" and weigh 225lbs, I've logged almost 400 miles on mine, I've broken 2 swingarms.
> The bearings in my linkage are fine.
> prj71 must be doing something different.
> Bearing failures of this type are caused when the balls corrode and the bearings are cycled (turned). The repeated grinding of the balls in a wet/oil/rust bath makes them undersized to the point they can escape out of the bearing raceways. The bearing then fails in this manner.
> ...


Well, he said he didn't use high pressure to wash it. So, YOU offer another explanation. You're the one intent on being right.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The bearing failure happened twice to Chub. Is he also guilty of washing his bike causing failure? 

I have logged more than 400 miles on my bike. 

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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

Same linkage bearings failed exactly same way on my BH1 in no time. It is definitely bad design combined probably with wrong installation from factory. 

There is bearings preload on the axle and nothing in between bearings inner races to support. 1.5Nm of preload is way too much for such small non-angular bearings.


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## Chub (Mar 14, 2012)

prj71 said:


> The bearing failure happened twice to Chub. Is he also guilty of washing his bike causing failure?
> 
> I have logged more than 400 miles on my bike.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


My bearings failed after max 150 miles each time.
I don't use a pressure washer on any of my bikes. 
As for rust....didn't see any on the failed bearing.

After the second failure my LBS replaced the rocker-link after consulting Cannondale. So perhaps there is an issue with some of the links or the preload axles.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Bike shop just called and said bike is fixed. They upgraded the bearings to Enduro Max on all pivot points. No charge.

http://endurobearings.com/products/bearings/max/

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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

tfinator said:


> Well, he said he didn't use high pressure to wash it. So, YOU offer another explanation. You're the one intent on being right.


Firstly, The pressure from a garden hose with a descent spray nozzle is enough to defeat a 2rs type seal.

Secondly, Bill Clinton said he didn't inhale, and I didn't believe him either.

Thirdly, Go here: 
http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemed...ownloads_24/barden_bearing_failures_us_en.pdf

So then let's take a logical look at each of the failure modes.

*Excessive loads*: possible although not probable, the system uses the air spring to soften dynamic loads. i.e. there are no true impact loads. Heaviest riders or riders with most mileage would be first to fail. Since we don't have a consistent pattern, then the data doesn't support this.
*Overheating*: Not possible, bearing is used in a low speed application
*False Brinelling*: Possible but not probable, external vibration mentioned refers to high speed out of balance machinery. Or machinery that is subject to external vibration. 
*True Brinelling*: Possible, not probable. Would indicate incorrect assembly method. i.e. hammer driving outer race
*Normal Fatigue*: Possible, not probable. Heaviest riders or riders with most mileage would be first to fail. Since we don't have a consistent pattern, then the data doesn't support this.
*Reverse Loading*: Not possible, not the correct bearing type, radial loads present, very low axial loads present in this system. 
*contamination*: Possible and probable.
*lube failure*: possible, although not probable as sole cause due to low speed application. Lubrication failure in this application would be due to ingress of water or dirt.
*corrosion*: possible and probable.
*misalignment*: possible but not probable. Bearing does not complete full revolution in this application.
*Loose fit*: possible although not probable. Low speed application.
*tight fit*: possible, would be evident upon installation new bearing or removal of old bearing.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Firstly, The pressure from a garden hose with a descent spray nozzle is enough to defeat a 2rs type seal.
> 
> Secondly, Bill Clinton said he didn't inhale, and I didn't believe him either.
> 
> ...


I like that we have guys who actually had the bearing failure say:
-we didn't wash it
-there wasn't rust
-the lbs decided it was the bearings, so they changed the make/model
-it was possible bad installation or just too much load a small bearing.

Yet you still go through that list and decide what's "possible not probable" based on the stuff in your head and your need to be right, not on the actual evidence.

I think you may have engineering confused with writing short stories.

If it'll make you go away though (because let's be clear, you're not helping anyway) I'll tell you you're right.

DUDE, YOU'RE TOTALLY RIGHT!


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> I'm 6'2" and weigh 225lbs, I've logged almost 400 miles on mine, I've broken 2 swingarms.
> The bearings in my linkage are fine.
> prj71 must be doing something different.
> Bearing failures of this type are caused when the balls corrode and the bearings are cycled (turned). The repeated grinding of the balls in a wet/oil/rust bath makes them undersized to the point they can escape out of the bearing raceways. The bearing then fails in this manner.
> ...


Low bearing quality
Bad installation (it's been known to happen from time to time)

There's two


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

At least some of us aren't breaking our frame and front suspension fork. Big Chris must be doing something wrong. 

My bottom bracket bearings were also changed out to Enduro bearings free of charge from the LBS. They were creaking like a mo fo'!

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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

prj71 said:


> At least some of us aren't breaking our frame and front suspension fork. Big Chris must be doing something wrong.
> 
> My bottom bracket bearings were also changed out to Enduro bearings free of charge from the LBS. They were creaking like a mo fo'!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


My BB has creaked from day one... hmmm


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Firstly, The pressure from a garden hose with a descent spray nozzle is enough to defeat a 2rs type seal.
> 
> Secondly, Bill Clinton said he didn't inhale, and I didn't believe him either.
> 
> ...


You have to do better than cut n paste to defend your assertion that it's water ingress..
Ive said it, I have had a FS bike for year and hose it all the time, not one problem.. This guy has that happen in a couple hundred miles????
One glaring omission from your list.. 50 cent bearings...
We don't use any crap bearings at work. ever. all the way up to $2000 bearings


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

CdaleTony said:


> My BB has creaked from day one... hmmm


You're probably washing your bike too much.

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## gonabike (Jun 5, 2016)

I'm seriously considering the bad habit 1 as my first full suspension bike. Another option would be the stumpjumper 6fattie but I prefer the looks on the cannondale. Probably will go tubeless as the tyres seem heavy.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Love my BH1. Test road a 6fattie which was nice but the Cannondale just felt "better" to me. Definitely setting up tubeless and putting some Nobby Nic's on. 

Jason

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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Floyd298 said:


> Love my BH1. Test road a 6fattie which was nice but the Cannondale just felt "better" to me. Definitely setting up tubeless and putting some Nobby Nic's on.
> 
> Jason
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Care to offer a more detailed comparison? (Just curious.)

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

gonabike said:


> I'm seriously considering the bad habit 1 as my first full suspension bike. Another option would be the stumpjumper 6fattie but I prefer the looks on the cannondale. Probably will go tubeless as the tyres seem heavy.


Do tires also. WTB are heavy.

I'm tubeless now with Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron

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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Bike shop just called and said bike is fixed. They upgraded the bearings to Enduro Max on all pivot points. No charge.
> 
> MAX | Enduro Bearings
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Do you happen to know the part# of the bearings they used? I have had one fail and would like to upgrade the bearings to see if it fixes the problem, and NO I DON'T power wash my bike.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

+1 on the part numbers. Wouldn't mind the upgrade. 

Jason

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

MI_Pdlr said:


> Do you happen to know the part# of the bearings they used? I have had one fail and would like to upgrade the bearings to see if it fixes the problem, and NO I DON'T power wash my bike.


No I don't. I just dropped the bike off and they fixed it under warranty and I was told the bearings were replaced with Enduro Max. Your bike should be under warranty also, so I would just drop it off at the shop and have them take care of it and request a bearing upgrade. I never requested a bearing upgrade, the LBS just did it automatically as a goodwill/customer service deal.

Otherwise See if you can find out the bearing ID, OD and width from Cannondale. I have found their support line to be very responsive.

https://cannondale.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?ticket_form_id=250608


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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

After some research and taking my bike apart. The bearing kit from cannondale for replacement is kp386. It's a 4 bearing kit. The number on the bearing themselves are 6802rs so in a pinch you can get bearings from somewhere local.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

MI_Pdlr said:


> Do you happen to know the part# of the bearings they used? I have had one fail and would like to upgrade the bearings to see if it fixes the problem, and NO I DON'T power wash my bike.


Sounds to me like you power washed your bike


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

MI_Pdlr said:


> After some research and taking my bike apart. The bearing kit from cannondale for replacement is kp386. It's a 4 bearing kit. The number on the bearing themselves are 6802rs so in a pinch you can get bearings from somewhere local.


So did you get a replacement set from Cannondale or upgrade?

Looks like 6802 LLU Max would be the Enduro equivalent then?

http://endurobearings.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/MAX15-New-PL0-2015-Full-.xlsx.pdf

And tfinator is right...you really should quit power washing your bike.


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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

Official Cannondale answer for the guys that don't trust a random guy on the interwebz



> Thanks for taking the time to reach out, and thanks for riding Cannondale!
> 
> I can do you one better than dimensions, I can give you bearing part numbers.
> 
> The entire link uses 6802 ZRS (15x24x5) bearings. The lower pivot uses a 6902 (15 x 28 x 7).


I ordered a kit from Cannondale experts and I ordered the Enduro Max bearings also. I'm trying to get it put together Friday night to ride this weekend and power wash on Saturday so whichever is here first will go in for now.

I'm making a tool to press them out and then will check the position of the bearing bores to each other to see if it's a machining alignment issue.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Cool. Let us know how the power washing goes. 

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## gonabike (Jun 5, 2016)

Just ordered my bad habit 1 today. Should take 1 week to arrive. Can't wait! Lbs will set tubeless wheels so that should shave almost 1kg off. Had to sell my old 29er to finance this one but i'll be worth it.


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Hello, Does anyone know if a Shimano M8000 11 speed cassette will fit the XD hub. I wanted to put on a shark 50 tooth setup.


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## granitt (Apr 10, 2016)

Golddr2000 said:


> Hello, Does anyone know if a Shimano M8000 11 speed cassette will fit the XD hub. I wanted to put on a shark 50 tooth setup.


Hi, Shimano cassettes does not fit the XD system. You have to use a XD specific cassette.


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Ok, thanks

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## granitt (Apr 10, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Nobby Nic is about 300 grams lighter than the Bridger.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for a great 27+ tires listing


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I bought a Bad Habbit 1 a few weeks ago and this thread has been very helpful. I have Rocket Ron and Knobby Nic's going on tubeless in the next week. I am trimming the bars down tonight, they are wide and i ate it pretty hard on my last ride when they caught a tree. Also exchanging the grips with ESI, and a more comfy seat tonight. 

I have not been biking much for the last 5 years so a lot of tech is new to me. Can anyone tell me what dropper posts would work best with this bike. Or more specifically, which cable routing works best? I like the Fox Transfer with the internal routing and left hand trigger, but i'm not sure if the internal routing will work well this bike.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

There is hole at the bottom of the seat tube for internal routing. The rest you can route in the cable clamps on the down tube. 

I've heard good things about the 9 point 8 fall line dropper. 


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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

I bought a rockshox reverb stealth. Internal routing is a pain to get through but works. I got mine used and the cable is too short, it works but isn't the sexiest thing so think about cable length if you get a used one.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

granitt said:


> Thank you for a great 27+ tires listing


No problem. Here is the update.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

idbrian said:


> ... Can anyone tell me what dropper posts would work best with this bike. Or more specifically, which cable routing works best? I like the Fox Transfer with the internal routing and left hand trigger, but i'm not sure if the internal routing will work well this bike.


Congrats on the purchase. I love my BH2.

I got lucky and bought a slightly used Giant Contact dropper post from my LBS for a great price. I like the performance of this seatpost on my Trance 27.5, so it was a no-brainer for me. I then bought a 30.9 to 31.6mm shim and routed the cable internally. It works great for me. It takes some care to get the dropper set up, but once it is done it is worth having the internal routing for sure.

Good luck!


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> Congrats on the purchase. I love my BH2.
> 
> I got lucky and bought a slightly used Giant Contact dropper post from my LBS for a great price. I like the performance of this seatpost on my Trance 27.5, so it was a no-brainer for me.


I was going to ask if you went to Cycle Works in Byram but i see it is closed now. Bummer. I used to travel an hour out to that shop for all my bike service and purchases when I lived in Hoboken. Not that northern MA / Southern NH doesn't have great trails, but i have to say that I miss NJ trails. There was a lot oexciting stuff happening at Ringwood/Jungle Habitat/Wawayanda when I left there.

So i'm going to go with internal routing. I am going to take my time picking out a dropper post. I was hoping to not spend much more than $300. Those 9point8 Fall line's are really pricey.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I just flip flopped and think I want a dropper post that is external, and connects at the seatpost collar. Because everything about those cables running under the bike doesn't seem right to me. I would prefer to run the cable along the top tube. The Fox Transfer is pretty flexible with install. 

I will be watching this thread to see if someone comes up with a good option for protecting the cables under the bike from bashes. I was asking the guys at the bike shop about that area when buying it and they seemed to not know what I was concerned about. Don't people ride over giant logs anymore?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

If you ran a cable under the down tube and into the hole on the bottom of the seat tube it's very unlikely you would bash it. It would come around and over the top of the down tube out of harms way. 

If you're worried about bashing cables, I would be more worried about the brake and derailleur cables that go under the bottom bracket. I've bashed both of those already on rocks and so far they have held up. 

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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

idbrian said:


> I was going to ask if you went to Cycle Works in Byram but i see it is closed now. Bummer. I used to travel an hour out to that shop for all my bike service and purchases when I lived in Hoboken.


John works as the manager of Cycle Craft in Jefferson, NJ now. that's where I got the post.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I believe the Bad Habit 1 & 2 have the same wheels. I want to self convert to Stan's tubeless. My LBS is telling me that i need to tape the wheel, even though it says that it is tubeless ready. Is that the case or can i just buy the Stan's tubeless stems, and sealant, and the wheels are good to go? I would like for the Stan's conversion to be a simple process.


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## MI_Pdlr (Apr 9, 2016)

Wheels are ready to go. Just buy the stems and a bottle of Stan's.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

MI_Pdlr said:


> Wheels are ready to go. Just buy the stems and a bottle of Stan's.


Yup. My BH2 is tubeless. Just add stems and sealant.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Thanks. That is what i thought.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Black Diamond….decision.

The hardest part has been decided...my wife approves of the BH 1 color!

I'm having a difficult time deciding on the next bike. I've been riding a Cannondale Jekyll 800 for the last 13.5 years and think maybe it's time to put it next to the flip phone. I do like the lefty shock and always appreciated the fit and finish of Cannondales. I recently went to my LBS to look at the new Habits and while I was there, the sales guy tried to introduce me to plus bikes; the BH 1 being one of them. Kinda of went in one ear and out the other. Though upon further research on the Habit, the Bad Habit kept popping up peaking my interest. I'm wondering if this may fit my needs. 

Here's a little background in the decision making. I'm male, 6'3”, ~208 lbs, 62 yrs, and probably in the 85th plus percentile of fitness for age. Ride mainly in Southern California; decomposed granite(igneous), sand, fines and rocks on fire roads and single track. Intermediate rider?; but like to push it. I'm not too worried about the fastest downhill speeds, but would like to improve the short VO max steeps, especially with rocks. I thought lower bike weight and rolling resistance would be the biggest considerations for improvement, hence the Habit. In reading about the HB 1 the larger tire foot print seem to really help the climbing. 

My thoughts are that I can reduce the weight of the BH 1 (XL frame 32.5lbs) with platform pedals down to around 28.5 lbs. If I go with, say, the Habit Carbon 3 and change to 2.4 tires for increased traction I'd probably come in around 27 lbs. Also the single chainring on the BH 1 is another consideration. I haven't ridden a single with multiple rear hub gears since the Schwinn Corvette with a Bendix 2 speed. 

I looking for comments, advice, tips…….

Will I really miss the bigger chainring and just pedal my ass off and go no where?
Will rolling resistance be a big factor, especially in climbing? General climbing on "loose".
Is the ride so plush as to take out a lot of the fun? Like an old Buick going down the highway.
The cracked frames and bearing issues are a cause for some concern.

Just was reading about the new Ibis Mojo 3, little smaller tire available. Comes in around 27lbs. Looks interesting. 

Thanks in advance.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Radioactive said:


> Black Diamond&#8230;.decision.
> 
> The hardest part has been decided...my wife approves of the BH 1 color!
> 
> ...


I see you're in fallbrook. I'm in Solana Beach. For my riding, which is lake Hodges, la Costa, elfin forest, penasquitos, and occasionally mt laguna, cuyamaca, I won't be going back to 2.2" tires.

Most of the guys I ride with are fast, and are always reviewing their strava uphill times. Yet all of them are realizing that more volume and full suspension makes a small difference in how fast they go as compared to how much more everything else is.

When I did la Costa switchbacks for the first time, even on my fat bike, I added about 1 minutes to the 15 minute climb. It's all technical and rocky, with about 600 ft elevation in 1.5 miles.

The heavier bikes do make your work harder. But, I also shaved over a minute off my previous best time going down, i was about 15% faster.

Ride one before you buy if possible, but figured it would help to have feedback from someone on your terrain.

For the record I'm strong, but with pretty shitty handling skills.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I shaved a little over 5 pounds from my BH2 with the following upgrades...

-Carbon Bars
-Carbon seat post
-ditched front derailleur and went 1x with 34t chainring from absolute black
-tubeless tires 
-Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron...WTB Bridger are heavy and have shitty traction 
-Specialized Power Expert Seat

I have $380 in upgrades sourced thru ebay and pinkbike. 

Next and last upgrade will be carbon wheels when the budget allows. Looking to get light bicycle rims. 



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## Bikerlibre (Apr 2, 2015)

MI_Pdlr said:


> Official Cannondale answer for the guys that don't trust a random guy on the interwebz
> 
> I ordered a kit from Cannondale experts and I ordered the Enduro Max bearings also. I'm trying to get it put together Friday night to ride this weekend and power wash on Saturday so whichever is here first will go in for now.
> 
> I'm making a tool to press them out and then will check the position of the bearing bores to each other to see if it's a machining alignment issue.


I'd be interested in seeing the tool you put together to press out the bearings. The spec's. call for them to be loctited in-place. I'd hate to booger things up trying to remove them and it's always nice making a DIY-tool rather than buying a specialty bearing puller or whatever is req'd. Thanks.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

tfinator said:


> I see you're in fallbrook. I'm in Solana Beach. For my riding, which is lake Hodges, la Costa, elfin forest, penasquitos, and occasionally mt laguna, cuyamaca, I won't be going back to 2.2" tires.
> 
> Most of the guys I ride with are fast, and are always reviewing their strava uphill times. Yet all of them are realizing that more volume and full suspension makes a small difference in how fast they go as compared to how much more everything else is.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I was hoping to get feedback from SoCal riders, especially SD county. I see we ride many of the same areas. Just rode Hodges yesterday from I-15 parking lot to the dam. Those last short, loose, uphills before the dam kicked my old man butt. Heart monitor showed 187 bpm, jeez at my age. Thought the big one was coming.

One minute over 15 minutes ain't too bad. Sounds like the fat boys do ok in our terrain. Thanks


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> I shaved a little over 5 pounds from my BH2 with the following upgrades...
> 
> -Carbon Bars
> -Carbon seat post
> ...


Thanks prj71. I've used your work as a guideline for weight reduction on the BH 1. As per Cannonade the XL BH 1 is a pound lighter than the BH 2. So that helps. In addition to your suggestions I'm also looking at changing the cassette, rear hub and upgrading the brakes to XT or XTR. This too could save nearly .5 lb. All my estimates are based on published figures. Real life maybe different!

Has anyone thought about going to a 2.8 tire vs the 3.0? Would it fit on the 45mm rim?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The rims are 50mm but 2.8 will work. The risk is slightly lower bottom bracket and rim strikes 

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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Radioactive said:


> Thanks, I was hoping to get feedback from SoCal riders, especially SD county. I see we ride many of the same areas. Just rode Hodges yesterday from I-15 parking lot to the dam. Those last short, loose, uphills before the dam kicked my old man butt. Heart monitor showed 187 bpm, jeez at my age. Thought the big one was coming.
> 
> One minute over 15 minutes ain't too bad. Sounds like the fat boys do ok in our terrain. Thanks


Awesome. I ride Hodges about once per week and do the volunteer patrol there. I usually ride the fat bike, now in 29+ garb.

I can tell you that the added rolling resistance gets me on the fire road type climbs. I frankly don't enjoy them that much matter what bike I'm on though, so what the hell? The added traction I get going through the single track between the dam and the old loaded parking lot (the one where cars come in to get to the boat dock) is awesome.

Feel free to pm me, I know that tail system extremely well, and could perhaps show you some trails you've not yet uncovered.


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

My girlfriend has a bh2 that's been making an annoying clicking/ cracking noise. It seems to be coming from either the top or down tube or where they connect. Anyone else experience this?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

rider357 said:


> My girlfriend has a bh2 that's been making an annoying clicking/ cracking noise. It seems to be coming from either the top or down tube or where they connect. Anyone else experience this?


Bottom bracket or suspension pivot bearings more than likely the culprit.

Read previous posts in this thread for similar noises/problems

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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

rider357 said:


> My girlfriend has a bh2 that's been making an annoying clicking/ cracking noise. It seems to be coming from either the top or down tube or where they connect. Anyone else experience this?


Did you change or adjust the seat?


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Can someone recommend how much Stan's Sealant to use when going tubeless on 27.5" x 3" tires? The Stan's website says to use less if you already have a tubeless set up. Would 2 Oz per tire be enough? 3 Oz?

Thanks.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

idbrian said:


> Can someone recommend how much Stan's Sealant to use when going tubeless on 27.5" x 3" tires? The Stan's website says to use less if you already have a tubeless set up. Would 2 Oz per tire be enough? 3 Oz?
> 
> Thanks.


I think 2oz is what I use for a regular 26 tire... So it'd have to be 3 or better....?


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

prj71 said:


> Bottom bracket or suspension pivot bearings more than likely the culprit.
> 
> Read previous posts in this thread for similar noises/problems
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Ok thanks. I'll take a look. Hopefully it's something that's covered.


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## rider357 (Sep 8, 2012)

idbrian said:


> Did you change or adjust the seat?


It's been lowered and raised a couple times.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

rider357 said:


> Ok thanks. I'll take a look. Hopefully it's something that's covered.


My bottom bracket bearings and suspension link bearings have all been covered under warranty. Bike shop upgraded to Enduro Max bearings in those locations.

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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

It may be dumb suggestion but if the seat rails aren't tight enough to your stem it makes a lot of creaking that sounds like it is coming from below.


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## fontarin (May 11, 2011)

idbrian said:


> It may be dumb suggestion but if the seat rails aren't tight enough to your stem it makes a lot of creaking that sounds like it is coming from below.


When I have a creak, I usually just pull the seatpost out and do a short ride on the street without one just to see if the creak is still there. Easy way to definitively say 'not the seat/seatpost'. Sometimes it might be something else that you just can't replicate without being on the trail and hitting bumps, but it gives you an indication of where to start.


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## smileyboy (May 28, 2009)

Anybody else think oh a Cannondale Bucksaw?


Sent from my iPhone


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

So on my ride yesterday the bike was creaking like crazy from the get go. Weird because it was fine on the previous ride. I also was having problems with the Lefty. On longer descents it would bottom out. I then would have to manually pick the front of the bike up to watch the suspension drop. I took it to the shop and they made some adjustment. On my first long downhill after that it still had the problem. I decreased the rebound dampener to the max and it seems ok. But i still haven't hit a long downhill since.

Taking her back to the shop again today. I hope getting the Enduro Max bearings is something they aren't going to hassle me for.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

New Bad Habit *Carbon* coming......

Cannondale 2017 Preview - Press Camp 2016 - Pinkbike

Ex-Walmart merchandisers must be picking colors for Cannondale! Yellow...Purple...(Yes, I know the purple is a "Habit" only)


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*Cannondale AI system*

Building wheels is something I've never have done before, but I plan on DIY replacing the rear hub to a Sram XO w/ XD and spokes. After reading this forum and searching the internet, nobody really described how it worked and what an AI offset wheel is. It maybe common knowledge to some but not to me. I don't know if everybody knows how it works after reading some of the different posts. I haven't verified this with the LBS so feel free to correct my theory! Have now verified and is correct...

The AI system pushes the left side dropout to the right and the chainring out to the right by (?)mm. The hub is a 12x148mm boost which adds +3 to each side of the hub's centerline mark over the 12x142mm hub that was normal. So, the hub is still symmetrical, no offset from the hub and Cannondale pushes out the left stay the whole added 6mm to the right for the chain to clear the larger tire while keeping the rim/spokes centered without dishing. No offsetting using spoke angles and tension. How does it keep the wheel centered with equal spoke angles..when using a spoke calculator it will ask for measurements from outside flange to centerline. For the Cannondale offset I believe you add (?)mm to the right side measurement and subtract (?)mm from the left side measurement. Basically you then have a "Virtual" centerline with resultant equal spoke angles and centered wheel.

Be kind.....


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The drive train side is shifted 6mm. Just look at the difference in the chainstays.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggfMAE&usg=AFQjCNGKNg893p8COJuzuTUdJX5SINh2IA

http://www.cannondale.com/en/Intern...amily?Id=4e4b801b-dc77-4a46-a430-800dd145dd52

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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Radioactive said:


> New Bad Habit *Carbon* coming......
> 
> Cannondale 2017 Preview - Press Camp 2016 - Pinkbike
> 
> Ex-Walmart merchandisers must be picking colors for Cannondale! Yellow...Purple...(Yes, I know the purple is a "Habit" only)


Yellow has a history.. Sobe, Beserker...Kinda partial to it..
That purple though ...:eekster:


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> The drive train side is shifted 6mm. Just look at the difference in the chainstays.
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggfMAE&usg=AFQjCNGKNg893p8COJuzuTUdJX5SINh2IA
> 
> ...


Exactly, but I was trying to figure out how they managed to center the wheel with no dishing or asymmetrical rim. A symmetrical non-AI wheel would be shifted the 6mm to drive side along with the hub.



CdaleTony said:


> Yellow has a history.. Sobe, Beserker...Kinda partial to it..
> That purple though ...:eekster:


Always thought the Sobe was bright green, but I see yellow also.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

Do you need a special hub to build a new wheel for bad habit 1?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> Exactly, but I was trying to figure out how they managed to center the wheel with no dishing or asymmetrical rim. A symmetrical non-AI wheel would be shifted the 6mm to drive side along with the hub.


They did it by centering the hub and spokes in the wheel. This moves the cassette over. The picture says it all.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Fatalpine said:


> Do you need a special hub to build a new wheel for bad habit 1?


Just a 148 boost hub.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Just back from "The Bike Shop" in Temecula, CA. Great shop...

Here's my buildout

Bad Habit One XL

Sram XO/ XD driver rear hub
E-13 9-44t Cassette
DT Swiss Comp Spokes&Nipples
Shimano SM-RT76 rotors
Schwalbe Rocket Ron/Nobby Nic tubeless
Shimano XT M8000 Disc Brakes
Specialize Phenom Expert 143mm Seat
AMX Sign. Pedals
Race Face Next SL seat post
Race Face Next 3/4 handlebars

On paper...weight should be under 28lbs including water cage, bell and topeka cell phone mount/case.

Next possible upgrade-carbon cranks/absolute black oval chainring

Hopefully will take delivery in the next 10 days!


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Fatalpine said:


> Do you need a special hub to build a new wheel for bad habit 1?


As stated previously 12x148mm boost..but with XD driver if keeping the sram cassette. Measurements change for spoke calculations for offset. Add (?)mm to the "flange to center" measurement on the right side and subtract (?)mm from the "flange to center" measurement on the left side for your spoke calculations.


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## granitt (Apr 10, 2016)

prj71 said:


> They did it by centering the hub and spokes in the wheel. This moves the cassette over. The picture says it all.
> 
> View attachment 1078756


Be aware that for BH it is 3mm offset and not 6mm as the Ai spec says.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

granitt said:


> Be aware that for BH it is 3mm offset and not 6mm as the Ai spec says.


Interesting......I'm going edit previous post to "?". Don't want to lead anybody down the garden path.

I lucked out in that the shop is going to install all my modifications, build the wheels and give me credit for the replaced parts in the package deal. I will ask about offset amount when I take delivery.


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## granitt (Apr 10, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> Interesting......I'm going edit previous post to "?". Don't want to lead anybody down the garden path.
> 
> I lucked out in that the shop is going to install all my modifications, build the wheels and give me credit for the replaced parts in the package deal. I will ask about offset amount when I take delivery.


I made measurements at the existing wheel and asked the C'dale importer in Scandinavia.


C'dale rep said:


> Hi Stig,
> Bad habit 1 has a 3mm offset.
> Best regards
> xxxxx xxxxxxx
> ...


You have 3 mm at each side (6mm i total) with the 148 boost hub and then add a 3mm offset when building the wheel, then you get the same chainline as the Ai spec.

I built my own 29" rear wheel with 3mm offset (6mm at the axle) and it is perfect in center.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

granitt said:


> I made measurements at the existing wheel and asked the C'dale importer in Scandinavia.
> 
> You have 3 mm at each side (6mm i total) with the 148 boost hub and then add a 3mm offset when building the wheel, then you get the same chainline as the Ai spec.
> 
> I built my own 29" rear wheel with 3mm offset (6mm at the axle) and it is perfect in center.


Thank you for the information. Since on a good day the local bike mechanic grunts; on a bad day he looks at you with a blank stare in which you know he's thinking, you dumbs&*t.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

I have been wondering if the Hollowgram crank arms from my Rize 1 are compatible with the cranks on the BH1...And if there is enough of a weight savings in transferring them over..
I plan on changing the bars, tires, tubeless.. MAYBE the seatpost...

Trying to make it less of a lead-sled..
CDT


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

CdaleTony said:


> I have been wondering if the Hollowgram crank arms from my Rize 1 are compatible with the cranks on the BH1...And if there is enough of a weight savings in transferring them over..
> I plan on changing the bars, tires, tubeless.. MAYBE the seatpost...
> 
> Trying to make it less of a lead-sled..
> CDT


If it's a stock BH1, it already has Hollowgram cranks.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

CdaleTony said:


> I have been wondering if the Hollowgram crank arms from my Rize 1 are compatible with the cranks on the BH1...And if there is enough of a weight savings in transferring them over..
> I plan on changing the bars, tires, tubeless.. MAYBE the seatpost...
> 
> Trying to make it less of a lead-sled..
> CDT


I'd change out rear hub and spokes/nipples before SI cranks. Shop is suggesting RF Next cranks, but I keep reading that the new Holograms are very light and stiff. The rear hub itself is probably close to a pound and Cannonade says spokes are 15g (15g x64=960g). New dT Swiss 350 boost XD hub is approx. 270g and dT Swiss comp spokes are 8g/ with nipples.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Le Duke said:


> If it's a stock BH1, it already has Hollowgram cranks.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Ok.. But these new cranks, are they machined hollow, or forged hollow?
Any weight difference?


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

I think they are using a new 3D forging process they developed. Google it, there is an article from BikeRadar couple of years ago that describes the it.

Cannondale expand Hollowgram crank offerings - BikeRadar USA


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Radioactive said:


> I think they are using a new 3D forging process they developed. Google it, there is an article from BikeRadar couple of years ago that describes the it.


Thanks, looking into it... Not shopping for bikes in a while has me behind the times on tech...


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Shop just called, no more Cannondale BH1 XL frames in the warehouse. Rep is trying to find one across the USA. Cannondale is offering to discount to the shop a BH2 frame and the upgraded carbon lefty. So if I like orange..I could have a 26 lb fatty mean machine with carbon 130mm lefty.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Radioactive said:


> I'd change out rear hub and spokes/nipples before SI cranks. Shop is suggesting RF Next cranks, but I keep reading that the new Holograms are very light and stiff. The rear hub itself is probably close to a pound and Cannonade says spokes are 15g (15g x64=960g). New dT Swiss 350 boost XD hub is approx. 270g and dT Swiss comp spokes are 8g/ with nipples.


"15g" in this case means 15 gauge... 1.8mm. 14g being 2.0mm, 13g being 2.34mm, etc. Weight is dependent on length.



CdaleTony said:


> Ok.. But these new cranks, are they machined hollow, or forged hollow?
> Any weight difference?


Very minimal. 15g (grams) or so.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

CdaleTony said:


> Thanks, looking into it... Not shopping for bikes in a while has me behind the times on tech...


You and me both!!


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Le Duke said:


> "15g" in this case means 15 gauge... 1.8mm. 14g being 2.0mm, 13g being 2.34mm, etc. Weight is dependent on length.


That makes a lot of sense. Shop didn't even pickup on it! Thanks

Cannondale should learn their abbreviations:madmax:

g,gm= grams
ga, awg, G=gauge


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

granitt said:


> I made measurements at the existing wheel and asked the C'dale importer in Scandinavia.
> 
> You have 3 mm at each side (6mm i total) with the 148 boost hub and then add a 3mm offset when building the wheel, then you get the same chainline as the Ai spec.
> 
> I built my own 29" rear wheel with 3mm offset (6mm at the axle) and it is perfect in center.


I emailed Cannondale support on this and this was their response...

_Check out our write up on AI here:
_
_Ai DRIVETRAIN
ASYMMETRIC INTEGRATION
As wheel and tire sizes have increased over the years, so too have the challenges of packaging those larger wheels into compact, nimble-handling rear triangles. Our solution is the Ai (Asymmetric Integration) offset rear triangle and drivetrain._

_*The Ai offset shifts the rear hub and drivetrain 6mm to the right,* delivering super short chainstays without any of the usual compromises (limited mud/tire clearance, single-ring compatibility only) and a rear wheel that is dramatically stiffer and stronger because the spoke tension and angles are equal on both sides._

_We then integrate this with our new Ai HollowGram spiders, which move the chainrings an equal 6mm to the right, balancing the system and maintaining perfect chain-line, shifting performance and Q-factor._
_This elegantly simple approach - Ai - enables us to have our cake and eat it too. The extra space created by shifting the drivetrain outboard enables us to have:_
_The shortest chainstays on the market, for incredible traction, stiffness and agility Up to 60% increase in rear wheel stiffness
Dual chainring compatibility with super short stays
Tons of mud clearance Great tire clearance with the chain and front derailleur_

*Originally developed for our F-Si XC-race hardtails, Ai tech can also be found on the new Beast of the East and Bad Habit 27+ trail bikes.*


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

CdaleTony said:


> Ok.. But these new cranks, are they machined hollow, or forged hollow?
> Any weight difference?


just found this

http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/cannondale-si-forged-cranks-1001007.html

Apparently there are three types of Cdale cranksets

1. sisl2
2. Hollowgram SI
3. SI (solid forged)


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Accordingly to their catalog, the Beast got the 142 spacing with Ai offset (which is why I didn't buy one... I just say no to proprietary hubs at this stage in life, aftermarket lefty fronts are available but their Ai rear's are not) while the Bad Hab got standard 148 spacing.


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Firstly, The pressure from a garden hose with a descent spray nozzle is enough to defeat a 2rs type seal.
> 
> Secondly, Bill Clinton said he didn't inhale, and I didn't believe him either.
> 
> ...


Ok so you've mastered copying and pasting from someone else's writings but not actual hands on experience of your own apparently. Also a big F ailure in reading and comprehension. So if I had this failure on one of my bikes, and I only hand wash using a window spray bottle with water & palmolive dish soap and wipe with a paper towel... that means I'm really pressure washing the bearings then and you're still right in your assessment ?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

DeeEight said:


> Ok so you've mastered copying and pasting from someone else's writings but not actual hands on experience of your own apparently. Also a big F ailure in reading and comprehension. So if I had this failure on one of my bikes, and I only hand wash using a window spray bottle with water & palmolive dish soap and wipe with a paper towel... that means I'm really pressure washing the bearings then and you're still right in your assessment ?


Haha, we don't need to bring it up again. Big chris was proven wrong, no matter the amount of armchair engineering. He never came back and we were all the better for it.


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Radioactive said:


> just found this
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/cannondale-si-forged-cranks-1001007.html
> 
> ...


yea.. when I picked up the bike I noticed the difference... My rep said they were hollowgram series or something... I also noticed that some of the pics I had seen during my shopping or drooling phase had the machined Hollowgram arms.. I had not imagined it.
I guess it's one of those pre-production spec things that get changed when the bike spec is fleshed out.

Still, I guess there is 150 free grams in the swap for me... The other bike wouldn't suffer greatly, it's pretty light as it is.....

CDT


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Stopped at the LBS on Friday. Bike mechanic informed me that all of the Bad Habit 2's that he has sold so far (four of them) and one Bad Habit 1 have come back for bearing replacement in both the suspension linkage and bottom bracket. They warrantied everyone's bike and upgraded to Enduro Max bearings which are much better than the OEM.

So far so good on my warrantied bearing replacements. Been on a lot of rides so far an no more creaking or bearings that fell apart.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*New Carbon Bad Habits*

Stopped at the LBS to check on my Bad Habit 1 order, since my Jekyll died on me. Still saying beginning of Oct, but rep said maybe sooner. In the meantime, the owner said he received some information on the new Carbon Bad Habits. Due to arrive in the beginning of August. In fact the rep was up in Ogden, UT for press get together.

*Bad Habit Carbon One*-Lefty, Shimano XTR derailleur, XT brakes, Upgraded rear hub, Carbon Handlebars,* Carbon Rims,* DT Comp spokes, Dropper, Hollowgram si cranks

approx-$5,400 USD









*Bad Habit Carbon Two*-Sram X1 derailleur, Sram brakes, WTB Scraper i40 rims, dropper, SI cranks

approx-$4,800 USD









LBS thinks the weight will be around 26lbs for #1, but waiting to hear from rep.

If the bike wasn't yellow I would have jumped on it today. My buildout for the Bad Habit 1 was probably gonna be around $5,000, so for a few hundred more I could have carbon rims and better components. Gonna think hard on this one.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*Carbon Bad Habit One Specs*


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

So got creaks and my experience was that i was not able to get the bearings replaced on my Bad Habit 1. I am not sure what motivation my bike shop would have to lie to me after buying the bike from them, but according to them Cannondale wouldn't replace my bearings without taking it through a procedure which started with a) tightening them, and b) removing them and regreasing them. I kept mentioning this forum and how other Bad Habit owners have had similar experiences. Well that didnt help me but the regreasing worked. Then on my next right i endo'd down a roller and the bike came over me and landed on its back side wheel real good. It dislocated the rear triangle from the shock pivot on one side. It just popped off the pivot. They were able to put everything together but are unsure how well the pivot will hold, and now i'm kind of stuck with it as is or pay form new swing arm. 

On the brighter side of things it has been riding well and i just got my first dropper post (Fox Transfer) and i'm riding my descents a lot better. So hopefully a lot less endos now.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Bummer your LBS won't take care of you. My LBS has been outstanding. They told me they made Cannondale pay for the replacement Enduro bearings. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Have you tried contacting cannondale directly? Maybe they'd give you some love.

That's a shyte story though, sorry man!


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

prj71 said:


> Bummer your LBS won't take care of you. My LBS has been outstanding. They told me they made Cannondale pay for the replacement Enduro bearings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Anyone have the Enduro Max bearing part numbers? I may just order a set. I also read on this forum that Cannondale used Loctite to install them -- is that the case?

I had to do the same thing years ago with my old '05 Giant Trance. They used regular ball bearings instead of the full complement bearing. The full complement is the best for these applications, as there is not much rotation.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Radioactive, where did you get this info? It is not on the Cannondale site yet.

I'm curious to see what the new colors for the Bad Habit -- our riding crew has 2 of Orange bike with many more people interested. I'm hoping the aluminum BH2 will be a different color. LOL


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*On pivot bearings from Habit forum........*

Regarding these issues:
I also have an Habit Carbon 1.
I also happen to work with Cannondale, which is great, because that means I get in touch with marketing, technical, and mechanic people from the C company.

I passed on the info.
Regarding the play developing in the pivots axles, it appears that:
While this new axles are indeed more user friendly for maintenance, they are on the other end, not so great the performance side of things, meaning, it is unfortunately "normal", to retorque them fairly often.

To prevent this, (and this should be addressed fairly soon to shops I believe), you can:
-Proceed to a complete removal of both Pivots axles (above the BB one and the one at the shock )
-Clean them (inspect bearing and axle)
-Use lithium grease at each contact point
-Use loctite (242 or 243 blue) for the threaded end of the main big axle (Part 1a on the manual)
-Torque this axle 1.a to 3Nm (instead of the 1Nm required)
-Torque the T25 Screw with a light drop of loctite (part #4 on the manual) to 7Nm instead of the 5Nm required on the screw itself (and even crazier than 3Nm, as specified in the manual!!)

Remember to remove the rear shock (one side of the shock is enough), when you remove the BB pivot axle.

I've been cracking noise/play free ever since.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

*Loctite Bonding
*
Loctite Bonding Instructions from Cdale for PressFit 30 BB; although Bad Habit uses CDale Alloy BB30. Gives materials and concept.

PDF won't upload...google "cannondale pressfit 30 bonding".


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Allamuchy Joe said:


> Radioactive, where did you get this info? It is not on the Cannondale site yet.
> 
> I'm curious to see what the new colors for the Bad Habit -- our riding crew has 2 of Orange bike with many more people interested. I'm hoping the aluminum BH2 will be a different color. LOL


At my LBS. It was on the CDale internal dealer site.

Also the Bad Habits 1 & 2 will carry forward for the model year and will stay the same colors. Sorry


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

http://mbaction.com/uncategorized/cannonadales-2017-product-line

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/cannondale-2017-preview-press-camp-2016.html

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I believe my LBS followed the protocol Radioactive posted. I would like to of had improved bearings, I mean who doesn't want a free upgrade? But in the end i just want the bike to ride well and i am currently happy and getting more dialed into my new ride. 

There is still an ongoing issue with the Lefty shock on my bike. Unless I turn the dampener down (increasing rebound) a significant amount, the shock gets stuck with about 1-2" travel until I get off the bike and lift the front by the stem. My LBS said that C-dale is aware of there being an issue here. I was told that if i can ride it without it being a big problem, i should wait until off season when it may have to sent away. For now, my rebound is pretty high.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> To prevent this, (and this should be addressed fairly soon to shops I believe), you can:
> -Proceed to a complete removal of both Pivots axles (above the BB one and the one at the shock )
> -Clean them (inspect bearing and axle)
> -Use lithium grease at each contact point
> ...


Or maybe Cannondale can quit using junk bearings in the first place and do all this before selling the bike to the public.

The mechanic at the LBS said that when took the OEM bearings out he could squeeze them in his hand and they would deform because they were cheap and thin. He tried the same with the Enduro Max bearings and this did not happen...said they were rock solid.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Anyone have an idea of how much money i'd be looking at to pay for the bearings being replaced for Enduro Max? Including install? $120?

I'm not angry, but more bummed out that Cannondale didn't do the right thing. This will likely be my last C-dale, and i've bought two now in the last year.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> Anyone have an idea of how much money i'd be looking at to pay for the bearings being replaced for Enduro Max? Including install? $120?
> 
> I'm not angry, but more bummed out that Cannondale didn't do the right thing. This will likely be my last C-dale, and i've bought two now in the last year.


Sorry the brand isn't working out. My Jekyll 800 just died after 13-14 yrs, frame is still strong but rear shock yoke failed. Ended up taking parts off including the lefty and putting them on a 1998 CDale F500. Rode really well! Hopefully you'll get the shock and bearings worked out.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

idbrian said:


> Anyone have an idea of how much money i'd be looking at to pay for the bearings being replaced for Enduro Max? Including install? $120?
> 
> I'm not angry, but more bummed out that Cannondale didn't do the right thing. This will likely be my last C-dale, and i've bought two now in the last year.


Why you wanna pay for them?

Lean on your LBS a little harder to take care of it and threaten to quit doing business with them due to poor customer service after the sale.

After all...you're the one who just spent over $2k to buy a bike from them.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Did anyone receive this manual when you took bike delivery? Has the schematic, part numbers and installation instructions including BB bearings and pivot bearings.









PDF too big to upload and link goes to download. Ahhhh...search "Cannondale 133347" if needed.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

Having sold/worked on numerous Habits and Bad Habits I don't think this bearing issue is affecting all of them. Only one of the bikes I have handled has had bearing issues, the rest have been fine and quiet. My guess would be Cannondale might have had a small batch of bad bearings come through.


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## Reforminded (Nov 6, 2009)

prj71 said:


> Why you wanna pay for them?
> 
> Lean on your LBS a little harder to take care of it and threaten to quit doing business with them due to poor customer service after the sale.
> 
> ...


Didn't his shop just rebuild all the pivots on the bike at no charge? That sounds like pretty good customer service after the sale to me. If the bearings fail prematurely, it is a warranty issue and the shop can file a warranty claim with Cannondale and get replacements for him at no charge. Making threats to try to get free upgrades--especially after the shop has already helped and addressed the issue at no charge--seems like a pretty dick move.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Reforminded said:


> Didn't his shop just rebuild all the pivots on the bike at no charge? That sounds like pretty good customer service after the sale to me. If the bearings fail prematurely, it is a warranty issue and the shop can file a warranty claim with Cannondale and get replacements for him at no charge. Making threats to try to get free upgrades--especially after the shop has already helped and addressed the issue at no charge--seems like a pretty dick move.


I apologize. I missed the part earlier in this thread where he had that work done.

Mine were taken apart and re-greased, re-torqued before the one failed leading to the eventual replacement with Enduro Max bearings in the link pivots.

My bottom pivot is still the OEM bearings but the LBS told me if they start creaking just bring the bike in and I'll get the upgrade.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Yeah. They regreased and i'm cool with the LBS. I guessing that the poor timing and severity of the wreck I had afterwards will leave me holding any future issues with the bearings though. I don't dislike C-dale but these two issues have made it so the bike has had problems since I bought it (6 weeks or so). I just want to ride the thing and have it work right, and not sit around while it is in the shop anymore. I'm just kind of turned off and there are a lot of options out there. 

It's also encouraging me to buy another bike for my quiver so i have something equally as awesome to ride whilst my other bike is in the shop. Perhaps a kick ass fatbike, or a fast and lightweight hardtail.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The mechanic at the LBS where I bought the bike from has the Bad Habit 1. I know he had problems with the lefty also and had it sent into Cannondale to be fixed.

Outside of the bad pivot bearings and bottom bracket bearings I don't have any other issues with the bike. Hopefully with the Enduro Max bearing upgrade I should be OK.

Now I need to get a hold of those carbon wheels on the new Bad Habit Carbon that is coming out...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Now I need to get a hold of those carbon wheels on the new Bad Habit Carbon that is coming out...


Ordered them today, as well as the bike attached to them. Ole Yeller should be here end of July.

LBS was a bit optimistic on weight estimate. More like 28.5 lbs not the 26 lbs he guessed. Dropping the dropper for Next SL carbon seatpost, Rocket Ron in rear, pulling tubes and Raceface Chester pedals. Should come in around 27 lbs.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I think I finished the small changes to my Bad Habit 1. Tubeless with Rocket Ron and Knobby Nicks. Ergon SME3 saddle, Fox Transfer Dropper with Left Hand lever. ESI grips (always for me). 








Thanks to this forum for some good recommendations. I've done my second ride with a dropper seatpost and the change in my ability on the trails are huge. I had no idea what I missing out on. I think the Fox Transfer was a good choice.


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## Floyd298 (Jul 23, 2008)

Idbrian...That is pretty funny. I have the same seat and grips they match the bike nicely. Let me know how you like the transfer post. Been on the fence about ordering one. 

Jason

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Seems like a good place for pics.


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## granitt (Apr 10, 2016)

prj71 said:


> I emailed Cannondale support on this and this was their response...
> 
> _Check out our write up on AI here:
> _
> ...


OK, you have to trust Cannondale if they say so.

But at least at my bike (BH1) my own measurements and my own build of new wheels proves to me that the offset at Bad Habit is 3 mm.

It makes no sense to me to have 6 mm offset AND a Boost hub.
But by using Boost hub and 3mm offset you will have the same effect as the Ai 6 mm offset with 142/135 hubs.

I think Cannondale's engineers are right, but customers support who e-mailed you has misunderstood.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

granitt said:


> OK, you have to trust Cannondale if they say so.
> 
> But at least at my bike (BH1) my own measurements and my own build of new wheels proves to me that the offset at Bad Habit is 3 mm.
> 
> ...


Are your spoke angles equal on your built rear wheel?


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*Idbrian*, which model ESI grips are you using? Thx


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

granitt said:


> OK, you have to trust Cannondale if they say so.
> 
> But at least at my bike (BH1) my own measurements and my own build of new wheels proves to me that the offset at Bad Habit is 3 mm.
> 
> ...


I think this would be dependent on what measurement you use for chainline. If you use CDale's measurement of BB offset 6mm then the chainline would be 80mm(148mm/2+6mm). This would leave a 3mm deficiency using 142mm + 6mm. 142mm/2+6mm=77mm. If you use 77mm chainline your comparison above would hold true.

Just looking at pictures, since my bike is somewhere in the ocean, finding points to measure looks quite difficult.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Radioactive said:


> *Idbrian*, which model ESI grips are you using? Thx


Ummm. As in the color? I bought the chunky via Amazon Prime.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> Ummm. As in the color? I bought the chunky via Amazon Prime.


They make several different models such as Fit XC, Fit CR, X-tra Chunky, Chunky etc. Thought you might have had the XC's. Think I'll p/u pair of X-tra Chunky.

Thanks again


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I have now replaced about everything but front fork, saddle, crank and brakes on my BH1 and its much lighter but I don't have a hanging scale to get an accurate weight. XX1 cassette, derailleur, shifter, and XTR rotors. I ordered some I9 Hugo wheels and the rear fits but the front doesn't have enough offset for the rotor to be in the caliper so we are looking for a fix for that. Cannondale will have what we need for it to work but not until september. Right now I am running the stock wheel and tire on the front since the wheels just arrived today and we haven't found a fix yet.

I am now having trouble with the front lefty fork compressing like it doesn't have any air in it but will go back up after a few seconds. I also hear a creaking noise but I am wondering if thats just not the carbon bar since my road bike makes a similar noise.

I know some have posted about having the same problem with the front fork and what was the fix or what did cannondale do about it. I never noticed until my ride was almost over today and used the lock out 4 times with it working those times so it probably happened when I made the last jump and about lost control within 100 yards of my truck

My scale says 27.4 and thats with the heavy front scraper wheel and bridger tire. On my ride today I had a good front traction with the bridger tire. Better than I can remember the Nobby Nic being on the same trail and it was a little wet in places


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

On my Bad Habit 1,With my lefty 2.0 pbr 120 27.5+ i've got only 100mm travel . How much have you on your fork? I just did a manual reset and no more than 100mm of travel. Is it normal?


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I wish I was more technically inclined to help with the fork issues. Shocks are where I draw the line on self repairs. The bike shop removed a cap and tightened something and it got better but my problem is still there. I have to turn the rebound dampening rather far down to get it to not stay compressed. I don't have the issue at that point buy it's obviously more springy.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

My bike shop is sending my lefty fork to Cannondale to be fixed and they mentioned something about having to swap a spring or something. The guy from cannondale who spoke with the tech at the local bike shop said his Bad Habit did the same thing and they know how to fix it.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I know the floor scale probably isn't as accurate as a hanging scale but my bike now weighs 26.8 with the I9 Hugo wheels and all the other stuff I have changed.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

What is your build list? 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

As for me, I want to know about the magical scale! Never too early to start thinking about a Christmas gift for the wife.

On paper, my buildout for the BH1 which included changing handlebar, seat post, seat, rear hub, all spokes, crank, tires, brakes, rotors, cassette and going tubeless brought the weight down to around 28 lbs. with pedals. As far as I read it, the Hugo rims are 720g vs Scraper i45 at 650g. The BH Carbon 1 which I order with new seat, carbon seat post plus all the upgrades CDale did such as carbon rims and handlebar should come in around 27 lbs with pedals. My shop did tell me that CDale is conservative on weight readings. I will know soon enough since the bike is suppose to arrive today, and p/u tomorrow. I'll weigh when I p/u.


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

I am also thinking about doing this. Please let us know if anyone tries this.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

prj71 said:


> What is your build list?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


XX1 shifter, derailleur, and cassette

Easton EC90 handlebar and seatpost

ECI Chunky grips

Race face Chester pedals

I9 Hugo wheels listed at 1905grams

Nobby Nic tires with no tubes


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

^^ what are you thinking about trying?


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> As for me, I want to know about the magical scale! Never too early to start thinking about a Christmas gift for the wife.
> 
> On paper, my buildout for the BH1 which included changing handlebar, seat post, seat, rear hub, all spokes, crank, tires, brakes, rotors, cassette and going tubeless brought the weight down to around 28 lbs. with pedals. As far as I read it, the Hugo rims are 720g vs Scraper i45 at 650g. The BH Carbon 1 which I order with new seat, carbon seat post plus all the upgrades CDale did such as carbon rims and handlebar should come in around 27 lbs with pedals. My shop did tell me that CDale is conservative on weight readings. I will know soon enough since the bike is suppose to arrive today, and p/u tomorrow. I'll weigh when I p/u.


The hubs and spokes must weigh less than whats on the scraper and maybe a rebuild of the scraper would of been better than replacing the whole wheel like I did. I9 listed the complete wheel set as 1905

Hugo 27.5\"


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

wcoyne said:


> ^^ what are you thinking about trying?


Putting 29" wheels

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*First in USA?*

Picked up the Carbon Bad Habit today....changes Rocket Ron in rear, Next SL carbon seat post, Specialized Power Expert saddle and Raceface Chester pedals. Came in just under 28 lbs.


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## cacatous (Dec 1, 2013)

Radioactive said:


> Picked up the Carbon Bad Habit today....changes Rocket Ron in rear, Next SL carbon seat post, Specialized Power Expert saddle and Raceface Chester pedals. Came in just under 28 lbs.
> 
> View attachment 1085079


Is that a 2016 or 2017? Looks great


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

hambocairns said:


> Is that a 2016 or 2017? Looks great


Thanks. It's the new carbon frame 2017. LBS owner doesn't think it will be on CDale website for a while. Ordered unseen, surprised how nice it looked. All the credit to CDale, they did a great design. Customers at LBS were going nuts over it. The yellow is not over done when seen in person.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Really nice looking bike Radioactive. Good luck with her and enjoy!

Still loving my Bad Habit 2.


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## litespeedaddict (Feb 18, 2006)

Badass hambo!! Love it!!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> So then this.....
> Swing arm is cracked, near seat tube pivot mounting point, adjacent to weld. Took to LBS, processed warranty claim, part is in stock, expect replacement in 5 days.
> 
> View attachment 1062214
> ...


PSA...

This happened to me now also. Same exact crack. Found it while washing the bike.

LBS was great and had me up an running again with a new replacement in less than a week. Covered under warranty.

If it happens again, my Cannondale experiment may be over.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## jakk (Feb 27, 2008)

*Regular 27.5 wheels & Bad habit*

Hi all,

I was wondering, is it possible to put regular 27.5 wheels on the Bad Habit?
I tried this bike in a rocky region, I really enjoyed riding this bike but where I live 27.5+ is not suitable (less rocky). So a regular habit would suit but I don't like the colors of all the other habits 
Besides I think the components are well chosen on the bad habit..

So what do you think about setting some light 27.5 wheels? I could still keep the 27.5+ for my mountain trips 

Thx


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

jakk said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I was wondering, is it possible to put regular 27.5 wheels on the Bad Habit?
> I tried this bike in a rocky region, I really enjoyed riding this bike but where I live 27.5+ is not suitable (less rocky). So a regular habit would suit but I don't like the colors of all the other habits
> ...


Going to regular 27.5 wheels is not a good idea. The bottom bracket will be lowered too much and you may have pedal strikes. Also, the geometry will not be optimized for the lower BB.

However, you can have a set of regular 29er wheels built up. They are almost the same outer diameter of the 27.5+ wheels. Be careful because the rear wheel is asymmetric and the 29er wheel would need to be built the same way.

Or, dare I say it, go with the regular Habit. I rode one of them at Dirtfest in Raystown, PA and loved it. It is an excellent bike, too.


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## jakk (Feb 27, 2008)

ah yea I didn't think about the lower BB :-/
Thanks for your reply Joe


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> PSA...
> 
> This happened to me now also. Same exact crack. Found it while washing the bike.
> 
> ...


On the bright side at least you don't have a "Lefty"!


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*Obligatory in the Wild....*









Thanks for the nice comments....

Took it out Monday for 18 miles

Where I took the bike hasn't received the memo about the new style of bright colored bikes yet. I felt like the "penguin with the red bowtie" among the blacks, grays and browns.

A first I could only use the front of the lever for higher gear shifting and and was disappointed that I couldn't use the the backside. Out of habit (No pun intended), I tried again with more pressure and it worked. Was just a bit tight. No problems after that.

I really liked the prostate/nerve friendly Specialized Power saddle. Looks small on the XL bike and seems like if you shifted the wrong way on the saddle, you would actually get a prostate exam! But very comfortable.

The Ride-

Keep in mind I've gone from a 26" to the 27.5" plus. Since it was the first time on the trail with any plus bike I wanted to do a shake out ride first. The trail is split into two sections, to the east relatively flat with a few "ant hills", nine miles out and back, and to the west, a lot more climbs and rocks, again a total of about nine miles. Almost all double track.

The first couple of miles I was really kinda ho-hum. I could definitely feel the difference in the effort and ride of the wide tires. I hit the first hill with the same effort I normally do, it just wasn't enough. Out on the flats, I thought to myself, this is your father's Buick. The bike just absorbed almost everything in its way. Almost too smooth. Felt like going from skiing the bumps to a groomed hill with fat skis. Kept thinking maybe I should get a pair of 29" wheels, then I hit the first long patch of sand and it just floated on top while holding its line. Wow. After the turn around point I think I started to learn how to ride her. Much better experience!

Went over the to western half with a lot more modest but rocky climbs, some good downhill and stream crossing. Going into the first hill you make a sharp left going uphill with rocks, double track, I usually take an outside line but with the BH an inside line was no problems. Again more effort on the hills but rolled over the rocks with ease. I blasted the downhill sections of course; some with a lot of cobble+ size rocks. Hovercraft? On the single track portions it held its line every well.

So overall the bike rides very smooth, holds the line very well, carries its momentum and takes a little more effort on the climbs. I haven't yet hit the short steeps yet. I'm looking forward to see how it performs on them.

IMHO, if someone ask about this bike as a first time mountain bike, I think I would recommend that first buy a good used 26"er and learn your skills on it. Just because one could get real lazy on the BH. Naw, I don't need to go around the wall, I'll just drive through it!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> On the bright side at least you don't have a "Lefty"!


My OCD wouldn't let me ride a bike with a Lefty!!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> View attachment 1085787
> 
> 
> A first I could only use the front of the lever for higher gear shifting and and was disappointed that I couldn't use the the backside. Out of habit (No pun intended), I tried again with more pressure and it worked. Was just a bit tight. No problems after that.


What does this mean? I'm not following.


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Shifting in the rear is a index finger pull or a thumb push.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I just can't stop having issues with this bike. It is frustrating. I can't have an issue-less ride. I don't blame the LBS or Cannondale as much as i think i just got unlucky. My 1x11 ghost shifts on the lowest gears. The bike has been into the shop about 6 times for this now. They have taken it to the extent of running a new cable and added a few links. There has been hub adjustments, etc. The bike leaves the shop fine and then a few miles into my ride it starts to click on the low gears, a few miles later random ghost shifting on the lowest, a few miles later regular ghost shifting in the lowest gears. About 5 times i've gone through this process. I want to get comfortable on this bike and i really enjoy short aggressive technical climbs but i can't have faith in the bike staying in gear. 

This bike has been in the shop after every other ride, and i ride about 3-4 times a week. Grrrr.


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Did they change the derailleur hanger? That fixed all my shifting problems

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

They checked out the derailleur hangar and said it was fine. Maybe not. I'll run it through my derailleur device. Thanks. 

Speaking of Derailleur's i was told spares weren't available. I wanted two spares.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

idbrian said:


> I just can't stop having issues with this bike. It is frustrating. I can't have an issue-less ride. I don't blame the LBS or Cannondale as much as i think i just got unlucky. My 1x11 ghost shifts on the lowest gears. The bike has been into the shop about 6 times for this now. They have taken it to the extent of running a new cable and added a few links. There has been hub adjustments, etc. The bike leaves the shop fine and then a few miles into my ride it starts to click on the low gears, a few miles later random ghost shifting on the lowest, a few miles later regular ghost shifting in the lowest gears. About 5 times i've gone through this process. I want to get comfortable on this bike and i really enjoy short aggressive technical climbs but i can't have faith in the bike staying in gear.
> 
> This bike has been in the shop after every other ride, and i ride about 3-4 times a week. Grrrr.


Sorry for the basic questions if you have the answers already -- is the derailleur hanger tight? Is the derailleur tight in the hanger? Is the rear axle tight? Is one of your cassette rings bent slightly (that has happened to me before). Is your front chainring slightly bent? Does your chain have a loose pin? Does it have a 10-speed pin or master link by accident?

Do you have a Go-Pro or know someone who does? If so, video the problem area and that might help a bit so you can see what is going on.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Hi Allamuchy Joe, I think i remember your name from when i used to live and ride in NJ. I used to be pain in the ass on the MTBNJ forums about ten years ago. I miss a lot of those Northern NJ trails, and mtbnj was a great organization and forum. 

Anyways, i just had the bike in the stand. I think the wreck i had a while back is the issue. When trying to correct the derailleur hanger I saw that the wheel itself wasn't aligned right. So when staring down the back of the bike the top of the wheel is to the right of the bottom. So I loosened up the thru axle, aligned it better, and tightened it back up. After some shifting and rear brake adjustments it is running in the stand now fine. So i will be able to ride today (yay) but more substantial hub work is in my future i think. The LBS was thinking there was an alignment issue that either related to the hub or rear triangle. So shame on me for wrecking and screwing this up. Unfortunately i never had a ride on this bike prior to my crash that didn't have problems. So all in all this bike has just been bad luck for me. I'm building up another plus bike right now (Canfield EPO) and when i finish it up next week this bike is going into the shop for a while. They will be sending my Lefty off to Cannondale for the new spring.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

2old said:


> Shifting in the rear is a index finger pull or a thumb push.


That makes sense. I couldn't decipher what radioactive meant by the way he worded it.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

idbrian said:


> I just can't stop having issues with this bike. It is frustrating. I can't have an issue-less ride. I don't blame the LBS or Cannondale as much as i think i just got unlucky. My 1x11 ghost shifts on the lowest gears. The bike has been into the shop about 6 times for this now. They have taken it to the extent of running a new cable and added a few links. There has been hub adjustments, etc. The bike leaves the shop fine and then a few miles into my ride it starts to click on the low gears, a few miles later random ghost shifting on the lowest, a few miles later regular ghost shifting in the lowest gears. About 5 times i've gone through this process. I want to get comfortable on this bike and i really enjoy short aggressive technical climbs but i can't have faith in the bike staying in gear.
> 
> This bike has been in the shop after every other ride, and i ride about 3-4 times a week. Grrrr.


Have you checked to make sure that the cable has enough slack so that when the suspension flexes it's not causing it to shift?


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> Hi Allamuchy Joe, I think i remember your name from when i used to live and ride in NJ. I used to be pain in the ass on the MTBNJ forums about ten years ago. I miss a lot of those Northern NJ trails, and mtbnj was a great organization and forum.
> 
> Anyways, i just had the bike in the stand. I think the wreck i had a while back is the issue. When trying to correct the derailleur hanger I saw that the wheel itself wasn't aligned right. So when staring down the back of the bike the top of the wheel is to the right of the bottom. So I loosened up the thru axle, aligned it better, and tightened it back up. After some shifting and rear brake adjustments it is running in the stand now fine. So i will be able to ride today (yay) but more substantial hub work is in my future i think. The LBS was thinking there was an alignment issue that either related to the hub or rear triangle. So shame on me for wrecking and screwing this up. Unfortunately i never had a ride on this bike prior to my crash that didn't have problems. So all in all this bike has just been bad luck for me. I'm building up another plus bike right now (Canfield EPO) and when i finish it up next week this bike is going into the shop for a while. They will be sending my Lefty off to Cannondale for the new spring.


Small world...I use to live in Upper Saddle River and then moved to Peapack-Gladstone. 
That Canfield EPO is one nice looking ride.



prj71 said:


> That makes sense. I couldn't decipher what radioactive meant by the way he worded it.


Hey, now you sound like one of my old professors. I was trying to be all inclusive, not leaving out anyone without a right index finger.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

prj71 said:


> Have you checked to make sure that the cable has enough slack so that when the suspension flexes it's not causing it to shift?


This.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

prj71 said:


> Have you checked to make sure that the cable has enough slack so that when the suspension flexes it's not causing it to shift?


it isn't that. The cable from the factory was ran a little tight, resulting in a sharp angle at the derailleur. This is why the LBS replaced the line and it now has much better slack. It didn't change the ghost shifting. I think between the rear triangle and hub that something is out of line since my awkward low speed crash. Something not cheap to fix most likely.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

Fatalpine said:


> On my Bad Habit 1,With my lefty 2.0 pbr 120 27.5+ i've got only 100mm travel . How much have you on your fork? I just did a manual reset and no more than 100mm of travel. Is it normal?


Am I the only guy to measure the travel of my lefty 120 on my bad habit1? I called my lbs, and they measured on two bikes in stores and they found that 100 mm of travel. I'm not happy with that!!! Is there one possibility to increase the travel of this fork?
It's my first and probably my last Cannondale, to much creak and problems with this bike two times already at the LBS for some warranty.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Fatalpine said:


> Am I the only guy to measure the travel of my lefty 120 on my bad habit1? I called my lbs, and they measured on two bikes in stores and they found that 100 mm of travel. I'm not happy with that!!! Is there one possibility to increase the travel of this fork?
> It's my first and probably my last Cannondale, to much creak and problems with this bike two times already at the LBS for some warranty.


Having a similar experience. There is a known problem with the Lefty. I'm sending mine in soon. I try really hard to like this bike. I think buying the first generation was a bad choice.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

*Second Ride, First Owie*

Tire pressure makes all the difference. Picked up low pressure gauge after first ride. When I picked up the bike the LBS was out of gauges and set tires to what they thought was 16 front and 17 rear with pump gauge. New gauge showed more like 12/13. Before ride I went to 16/17. The soft Buick ride was gone as well as the extra rolling resistance feel. Climbed really well with no tire slip. Quite a bike when there no mechanical issues. GPS showed 25 mph downhill thru a real rocky section passing everyone. A rock kiss did tear chain stay protector.


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## tomsharo (Aug 2, 2004)

*Bab Habit 1*



Deslock said:


> Congrats on the new bike! (edit: I see you got it in December... but that's still relatively new)
> 
> Coincidentally, I was looking at a Bad Habit 1 (along with a Stumpjumper 6fattie), but opted for a Diamondback Catch 2 due to finding it discounted.
> 
> ...


I have been riding a Bad Habit 1 for 10 months now and love it so much I am ordering a new 2017 Carbon Bad Habit 1. I love how it rides and often I am faster on the Bad Habit then on my carbon trigger so much so that I am selling the trigger and will not replace it with another 27.5 unless it is a plus. I feel this is going to be where trail bikes are going to end up. I have been riding mountain bikes for thirty years and have never had such confidence and ability to ride everything. I believe I will end up with a carbon Bad Habit and a fat caad.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

tomsharo said:


> I have been riding a Bad Habit 1 for 10 months now and love it so much I am ordering a new 2017 Carbon Bad Habit 1. I love how it rides and often I am faster on the Bad Habit then on my carbon trigger so much so that I am selling the trigger and will not replace it with another 27.5 unless it is a plus. I feel this is going to be where trail bikes are going to end up. I have been riding mountain bikes for thirty years and have never had such confidence and ability to ride everything. I believe I will end up with a carbon Bad Habit and a fat caad.


It is a fun bike, that's for sure. I'm not ready to give up my Trance just yet, but I do ride the BH a lot more than I thought I would. It is a ton of fun!

Good luck with the Carbon BH.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

tomsharo said:


> I have been riding a Bad Habit 1 for 10 months now and love it so much I am ordering a new 2017 Carbon Bad Habit 1. I love how it rides and often I am faster on the Bad Habit then on my carbon trigger so much so that I am selling the trigger and will not replace it with another 27.5 unless it is a plus. I feel this is going to be where trail bikes are going to end up. I have been riding mountain bikes for thirty years and have never had such confidence and ability to ride everything. I believe I will end up with a carbon Bad Habit and a fat caad.


Just curious. Did you get the bearings and Lefty issues?


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

I would like build a rear wheel for my BH1. How made you the calculation for the spokes length with an AI boost wheel? I know for the 3mm ofset. But i'm not sure for the calculation of spoke length with hub Hope pro 4 boost and DT rim XM551.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Fatalpine said:


> I would like build a rear wheel for my BH1. How made you the calculation for the spokes length with an AI boost wheel? I know for the 3mm ofset. But i'm not sure for the calculation of spoke length with hub Hope pro 4 boost and DT rim XM551.


Disclaimer: I have not built a wheel. As in earlier post I have attempted to figure out how CDale AI works. Many people, even bike journalist have explained it in different ways, but none of the explanations meet CDale's description. I ran my explanation past my LBS and auto mechanic who is a CDale euduro racer, top in age class. Both said it was correct. Use it if you want, verify it somewhere, but I take do not take responsibility if incorrect.

I assume that the rim is NOT asymmetrical.
















Basically you going to move the center point of the hub to the left. So add your offset amount (3mm, CDale says 6mm) to the PCD figure for the right, and then subtract the same offset amount from the left PCD figure. The new values are what you enter in to spoke calculator for center line to flange. Your spoke angle should and I believe your length should be close to equal since both flanges PCD are equal (57mm). Hope this helps.


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## Brewbacca (Aug 3, 2016)

Greetings and I want to say thank you to everyone for your posts in this thread especially where there are not any real reviews out there on the Cannondale Bad Habit.

I picked up a BH1 from my LBS three weeks ago. Before even leaving the shop I changed the saddle(Chromag Trailmaster DT), put on carbon bars(Race face sixc) from my previous ride, (CD Jekyll 4), and converted to tubeless. Bike weight out the door 32lbs with a large frame.

I like the way the larger tires absorb the bumps from many of the smaller roots and almost made riding over some rock garden stretches down in the western mountains of Maine feel like flat trail. For me the bike has been a confidence booster over some sections of trail and I have been riding a little faster. As other have mentioned I have noticed the lower BB height and had several pedal strikes on rocks I would normally not even have paid attention to.

Last week I rode in wet conditions and was not overly impressed with the WTB tires on the off camber roots. With fall coming and typically wetter trails I will probably be looking for something with a little better wet root grip.







Scenic view with BH1 near the top of the Oak Knoll trail, Carrabasset Valley Maine


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## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Hello, I have found new tires don't grip as well as scuffed up tires with some mileage on them. I have never had tires I thought were great on wet slippery roots. What do you use for that type of riding?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Nice review. I don't think you will ever find a tire that will "grip" wet roots. Wet wood and rubber don't mix well. That's why the chicken wire gets applied to elevated trails and stunts.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Golddr2000 said:


> Hello, I have found new tires don't grip as well as scuffed up tires with some mileage on them. I have never had tires I thought were great on wet slippery roots. What do you use for that type of riding?
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


Nobby Nic with TrailStar compound is going to have the best grip.


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

Brewbacca said:


> View attachment 1089316
> 
> Scenic view with BH1 near the top of the Oak Knoll trail, Carrabasset Valley Maine


Wow -- judging by the picture, those WTB tires have some real grip! 

My WTB tires started gripping better when I put about 100 miles on them. Now they feel pretty grippy. However, that didn't help the weight much.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

The WTB Bridger are the worst tires in 27.5+that i tried. No grip, slippy, not fast and heavy!


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> PSA...
> 
> This happened to me now also. Same exact crack. Found it while washing the bike.
> 
> ...


Are we the only two so far?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Fatalpine said:


> The WTB Bridger are the worst tires in 27.5+that i tried. No grip, slippy, not fast and heavy!


My experience as well. Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron were a great upgrade.


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## Brewbacca (Aug 3, 2016)

*Lefty issue*



idbrian said:


> Just curious. Did you get the bearings and Lefty issues?


Hey Idbrian, I was riding with Tom aka tomsharo last night. Up until last night he had not had any issues with his bearings, frame or Lefty. At the start of the ride his Lefty bottomed out and stayed that way till we removed all the air and pumped it back up. Ended up putting 40ish psi more than normal in it to get it to mostly work. It went from working fine to really soft then back to fine throughout the ride. He will be sending it in for service after his fat caad comes in this week. Having multiple new bikes is one of the perks for being the lbs owner or local Crack dealer as some of us call him for dealing the latest bikes and gear.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Brewbacca said:


> Hey Idbrian, I was riding with Tom aka tomsharo last night. Up until last night he had not had any issues with his bearings, frame or Lefty. At the start of the ride his Lefty bottomed out and stayed that way till we removed all the air and pumped it back up. Ended up putting 40ish psi more than normal in it to get it to mostly work. It went from working fine to really soft then back to fine throughout the ride. He will be sending it in for service after his fat caad comes in this week. Having multiple new bikes is one of the perks for being the lbs owner or local Crack dealer as some of us call him for dealing the latest bikes and gear.


It's in the shop as of Saturday with the shock going to Cdale and Enduro max bearings going in. It has been troublesome for me in the past because I was the only person complaining to my LBS but in the past two weeks they started seeing many issues coming in the door on other BH's.


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

^^ Most probably wave spring has been crashed. 
http://cannondalevendors.s3.amazona...ULLETIN-LEFTY_WaveSpringReplacement-50Hrs.pdf
It is known issue and Cannondale has already solved it with coil spring upgrade:
http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/medi...K/SB_Solo_Air_Assembly_Upgrade_EN_032516.ashx
Lefty Support


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## Allamuchy Joe (Oct 18, 2005)

So, I saw that Maxxis just released plus sized High Roller II tires. I initially got pretty excited, as I love these tires on my Trance and on the Santa Cruz before that. However, upon closer investigation, Maxxis is only going to make them in 2.8 sizing. And, according to the article on MTBR, they are designed with a 40mm rim in mind. But, the tires only measure 68mm wide or 2.67, so that makes them even smaller.

That kind of leaves us out in the cold with our 50mm rims and 3.0 (75mm wide) tires. Oh well.

My buddy has a 2.8 Diamondback Release and those tires look so puny next to mine -- it makes his bike look like a standard mountain bike width.


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2016)

the majority if not all current 2.8's perform best on i35-40 rims so anything wider will have diminishing returns me believes.

here's my setup.

Schwalbe NN 2.8’s 67tpi KNOB-KNOB =68mm/ 2.7” on i35 rims.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I am considering switching to 2.8's on this bike. I have 2.8's on my hardtail and have a lot less issues with sidewall cuts. Has anyone switched to 2.8's or have thoughts on why 2.8's would be inferior?


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

Pedal strike! BB too low probably


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Fatalpine said:


> Pedal strike! BB too low probably


I get a lot of those as is.

Does anyone find it hard to perform quick technical climbs with this bike? Coming from an All Mountain 26" bike I can't really get this bike up and over obstacles as well. Like riding up a roller. I generally have a hard time performing a wheelie. I'm wondering if I want to look at a different full squish bike for technical terrain.


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## Brewbacca (Aug 3, 2016)

Here is an article that talks a little bit about the lefty issue some people have had.

EB16: Cannondale Bad Habit Carbon 27.5+ hits the trails, Lefty upgrade kit & monstrous Moterra e-MTB hits USA - Bikerumor


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Brewbacca said:


> Here is an article that talks a little bit about the lefty issue some people have had.
> 
> EB16: Cannondale Bad Habit Carbon 27.5+ hits the trails, Lefty upgrade kit & monstrous Moterra e-MTB hits USA - Bikerumor


I hope that is the retrofit that my bike is getting.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

idbrian said:


> I get a lot of those as is.
> 
> Does anyone find it hard to perform quick technical climbs with this bike? Coming from an All Mountain 26" bike I can't really get this bike up and over obstacles as well. Like riding up a roller. I generally have a hard time performing a wheelie. I'm wondering if I want to look at a different full squish bike for technical terrain.


Trying playing with seat position and stem length.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

idbrian said:


> I hope that is the retrofit that my bike is getting.


My fork came back from Cannondale and they did not include the upgrade. I'm getting sick of this Cannondale customer service approach to taking care of manufacturing defects. They keep taking cheap steps before doing the right thing and really taking care of the problem. While I go through their process leading to doing the right thing they keep ruining my rides. My chances to ride are limited and I feel like a beta tester.

Anyways, my bike shop said they will demand the upgrade and install it at the shop.

I think I'm just building my own bikes going forward.


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## BigMike1975 (Mar 26, 2013)

Hello all! This is my very first post on ANY MTB forum. 
I just picked up a BH2 about a week ago and have about 60 miles on it and just love the bike. I'm a big strong 6-4 and 270ish pounds and this bike feels rock solid under me and is a hoot to ride. No that said I am very aware of my side so I try to ride smoothly as possible to keep from breaking anything but so far so good. I will keep an eye on the swing arm and bearing issues a few of you seem to have too and hope I don't have to contend with any of that. 
Also my bike is an XL and using the bathroom scale weighed in at 34.5lbs with Xpedo Spry peddles and everything else bone stock. The bike is a tank but then so am I so I don't really feel the weight compared to my Trail SL 2 29er.

Thanks all!


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> I get a lot of those as is.
> 
> Does anyone find it hard to perform quick technical climbs with this bike? Coming from an All Mountain 26" bike I can't really get this bike up and over obstacles as well. Like riding up a roller. I generally have a hard time performing a wheelie. I'm wondering if I want to look at a different full squish bike for technical terrain.


Maybe a "Big" six inches (wheelie) if I'm lucky. Have you thought about replacing rear hub for one with more engagement points? Little better slow speed response.



BigMike1975 said:


> Hello all! This is my very first post on ANY MTB forum.
> I just picked up a BH2 about a week ago and have about 60 miles on it and just love the bike. I'm a big strong 6-4 and 270ish pounds and this bike feels rock solid under me and is a hoot to ride. No that said I am very aware of my side so I try to ride smoothly as possible to keep from breaking anything but so far so good. I will keep an eye on the swing arm and bearing issues a few of you seem to have too and hope I don't have to contend with any of that.
> Also my bike is an XL and using the bathroom scale weighed in at 34.5lbs with Xpedo Spry peddles and everything else bone stock. The bike is a tank but then so am I so I don't really feel the weight compared to my Trail SL 2 29er.
> 
> Thanks all!


Welcome, glad you like the bike! You might want to keep an eye on those pedals, they have been known to break with us XL, clydesdale riders.

Don't get too comfortable...I'm going to the orthopedist next week.

From Bike Rumor...








No sticker on my MY2017 CBH1. Guess I'll pay to play in the future.


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## BigMike1975 (Mar 26, 2013)

Radioactive thanks for the heads up for sure on the pedals. I will def watch that and would welcome suggestions for the big boys. Like I said I do try to ride as smooth as I can to avoid equipment failures but I hear what you are saying here.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

According to the website the BH1 comes with a 120mm Lefty. I thought i recall it mentioned that the Lefty could be converted to a 130mm. Is that correct, and if so, how?

My Lefty us getting the Two Spring upgrade and i'd like to make the change to 130mm if i can. 


Thanks


----------



## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

idbrian said:


> According to the website the BH1 comes with a 120mm Lefty. I thought i recall it mentioned that the Lefty could be converted to a 130mm. Is that correct, and if so, how?
> 
> Thanks


The lefty on BH1 has just 100mm travel, it's write 120mm but in real life is just 100mm.
I'll like to try with a fork of 120mm or 130mm. But for the moment my lefty do the job and it0s not too bad but not 120mm travel.


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> According to the website the BH1 comes with a 120mm Lefty. I thought i recall it mentioned that the Lefty could be converted to a 130mm. Is that correct, and if so, how?
> 
> My Lefty us getting the Two Spring upgrade and i'd like to make the change to 130mm if i can.
> 
> Thanks


Check out "Habit" forum post #453


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Looks like it's on the house for us Lefty owners.

MANDATORY SERVICE BULLETINS

Cannondale Mandatory Service Bulletins

UPDATE: You might want to check with your local dealer. In my case, CDale is sending rep out to shop one day for massive fix. After that the shops will order parts and charge CDale for labor. Towards end of Sept. for my shop.


----------



## BigMike1975 (Mar 26, 2013)

Guys please bear with my newbie-ish questions.

What size Q-tube super lights are you using on the Bad Habit? And what valve stem length is sufficient? Or should I nix the tubes all together and go tubeless?

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Golddr2000 (May 4, 2004)

Go tubeless. It was very easy and I have no issues 

Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Go tubeless. Carry a Q tube super light 27.5 x 2.0 - 2.25 as a backup.


----------



## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I went tubeless for the first time with the BH1. It is easy as long as you have an air compressor. I would hate it otherwise. You save a lot of weight and with Stan's and the appropriate tire protection for your trails, you will end up with less trails idea maintenence. 

I carry a plug kit instead of a spare tube. The plugs will handle most holes too big for stans. If the rim gets bent with the bead compromised and you don't have a tube you are SOL as I recently learned.


----------



## mglder (Dec 8, 2015)

A compressor is no way needed to make going tubeless easy. A track pump or at most an Airshot is all I've ever known anyone I know need to use.

Saying a compressor is needed is going to put people off.

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Track pump and low pressure gauge is all I use for tubeless. Works great, very easy. Compressor and plug kit is what I keep in my car for the run flats.

idbrain....I think you have a Bad "Hillary", not a "Habit". Dislocated rear triangle, derailleur problems, bearings, Lefty shock, tire sidewall cuts, and bent rim. Jeez....


----------



## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

I received an email from Cannondale about swapping from the single spring that came in my Lefty to a dbl. spring and it said available for a limited time. My LBS spoke to a rep at Cannondale and was told my bike was eligible and the LBS should be able to do the swap. I will report back when I hear more


----------



## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

Brewbacca said:


> Here is an article that talks a little bit about the lefty issue some people have had.
> 
> EB16: Cannondale Bad Habit Carbon 27.5+ hits the trails, Lefty upgrade kit & monstrous Moterra e-MTB hits USA - Bikerumor


Wcoyne, Look about 10 posts back.


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I'm selling my BH1 for $2,500 with Fox Transfer post, $2,200 without. The bearings and Lefty have been upgraded. I live in Seacoast NH area and work in the North Shore of Boston. I probably won't sell it based on this post but i did post my experiences thus far on here and will update the end. 

I'm 65% interested in building up a Ibis Mojo 3, or 35% interested in Santa Cruz Hightower (both in 27.5+). I would look at others but i don't see any with similar geometry (short chainstays). I think i'm also done with 3" wheels. It seems odd that .2" of an inch seems too much to me and 2.8" seems just right. 

My 27.5+ Canfield EPO is riding really nice. I went looking for a similar geometry in a full suspension.


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

idbrian said:


> I'm selling my BH1 for $2,500 with Fox Transfer post, $2,200 without. The bearings and Lefty have been upgraded. I live in Seacoast NH area and work in the North Shore of Boston. I probably won't sell it based on this post but i did post my experiences thus far on here and will update the end.
> 
> I'm 65% interested in building up a Ibis Mojo 3, or 35% interested in Santa Cruz Hightower (both in 27.5+). I would look at others but i don't see any with similar geometry (short chainstays). I think i'm also done with 3" wheels. It seems odd that .2" of an inch seems too much to me and 2.8" seems just right.
> 
> My 27.5+ Canfield EPO is riding really nice. I went looking for a similar geometry in a full suspension.


Sorry it didn't work out for you. While I had my order in for the BH1, I was looking real hard at the Ibis Mojo 3 and probably would have ordered one if CDale had screwed up anymore. Very nice bike! When the CBH1 came available I grabbed that over the Ibis mainly on brand experience and value.

Just happen to see my auto mech/CDale racer the other day and I mentioned that i still wasn't completely sold on the 3"er's. He told me he had just ran into a guy he raced against previously riding a plus bike on 2.8's. He thought if you have the rim size (35-40mm) 2.8's were the sweet spot.


----------



## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

I have a 35i derby rims with 2.8" Nobby Nics on my Canfield EPO and it just seems right. Something about the 3" tires on this bike going through rock gardens always made me cringe. The sides would just get all torn up. 

I'm not very sensitive to feeling changes in a bike setup. For instance I'm the type to get my shocks to a comfortable place and leave them. So the summation of my experience with the BH1 setup that i didn't like is that it was "hard to wheelie", whilst my 16.3" chainstay EPO wheelies easy; so i want short chainstay. My 3" tires get torn up, and my 2.8's do not. Meanwhile i've witnessed no difference between the 2.8 and 3.0 on the trail in terms of ability. So i'm staying with 2.8. 

By wheelie i mostly mean getting the front of the bike up for technical features. 

I got my BH1 back from Cannondale all upgraded but i don't even want to take it on the trail anymore. Due to the shorter days and my family/work i can only ride one day a week, on the weekend now. The BH1 has ruined too many rides for me to chance taking it out again. It is all fixed now but the bike has been a curse for me.


----------



## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

aelf said:


> Funny, my 16' spesh fatboy comp with 455 chain stays is just as easy to get the front wheel up as my 16' Honzo with 415 chainstays. It ain't the bike. Don't over think it just do it. You want rock garden domination? 4.6 GC's at 7psi. Eats and floats rocks like crazy way mo bettah than puny plus tires. Aggy tomorrow? Bear Brook?


I was between the Honzo Ti and the EPO. They have the exact same geometry. I might be over thinking the reasons why, but the BH1 was hard to pull up the front for me. Additionally, I really like plus and want an all out full suspension plus bike. The Ibis Mojo 3 checks all the boxes. Ibis has always been a dream bike to have and now I can afford it.

I can only ride on weekends now. Judging from your other posts I doubt I could hang with you well on the trail.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> Picked up the Carbon Bad Habit today....changes Rocket Ron in rear, Next SL carbon seat post, Specialized Power Expert saddle and Raceface Chester pedals. Came in just under 28 lbs.
> 
> View attachment 1085079


Hi Radioactive,
the Lefty have the XLoc remote ?

Compliment for the nice bike


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Hi Radioactive,
> the Lefty have the XLoc remote ?
> 
> Compliment for the nice bike


No XLoc remote on the Lefty. Only split ring buttons on top of Lefty. No problem using even with full finger gloves. Standard Carbon Bad Habit will have remote for dropper.


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> No XLoc remote on the Lefty. Only split ring buttons on top of Lefty. No problem using even with full finger gloves. Standard Carbon Bad Habit will have remote for dropper.


Any protection on the dowtube?


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Any protection on the dowtube?


Nope, flying naked.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> No XLoc remote on the Lefty. Only split ring buttons on top of Lefty. No problem using even with full finger gloves. Standard Carbon Bad Habit will have remote for dropper.


Tnx for your answer

bye

EDIT : on the Cannondale site i read 
Fork Lefty 2.0 Alloy OPI, 120mm, XLR Isolated Damper Technology with Trail+ tune and XLoc remote, 55mm offset

you confirm that instead mounts the PBR system ?

Many tnx


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Tnx for your answer
> 
> bye
> 
> ...


I do not know what "PBR System" is.

I see that Cannondale does list XLoc as a feature on the CBH. Cannondale is not always accurate on their website. My bike was one of the first CHB 1 production bikes so it is possible that Cannondale added it later or Europe could be different specs. I would check with local dealer.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> I do not know what "PBR System" is.
> 
> I see that Cannondale does list XLoc as a feature on the CBH. Cannondale is not always accurate on their website. My bike was one of the first CHB 1 production bikes so it is possible that Cannondale added it later or Europe could be different specs. I would check with local dealer.


http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/medi...Y16 LEFTY OMS_EN.ashx?vs=1&d=20151215T165638Z

site 13 and 14 describe PBR and XLOC/XLR system

tnx for your answer

bye


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/medi...Y16 LEFTY OMS_EN.ashx?vs=1&d=20151215T165638Z
> 
> site 13 and 14 describe PBR and XLOC/XLR system
> 
> ...


Thanks.....Confirmed, PBR on my bike, no XLoc.


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Anybody get the Lefty 2 spring upgrade?

Mine was done couple of weeks ago and I have probably 50+ miles on it. Definitely better, much more linear in response. But now it "clunks" when riding over anything bigger than gravel and pulling small wheelies. Also air pressure decreases by 50%+ over 4 days. 

Normal?


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> Anybody get the Lefty 2 spring upgrade?
> 
> Mine was done couple of weeks ago and I have probably 50+ miles on it. Definitely better, much more linear in response. But now it "clunks" when riding over anything bigger than gravel and pulling small wheelies. Also air pressure decreases by 50%+ over 4 days.
> 
> Normal?


Guess I'll answer my own question. No, it not normal. Went to LBS today for repair..apparently they install a part upside down during the rebuild. Hope it's good to go now.


----------



## dfolta (Oct 6, 2016)

*Looking at buying a Moto Carbon*

Hey guys! I read the posts and am now super hyped about grabbing this Moto Carbon off Craigslist for $850. First of all..is that a good price (even though its 6yrs old)? And also, is it a 2009 Moto Carbon 3 or a 2010 Moto Carbon 2?

It also has a chip in the fame. (shown in the last picture) Do you think this is something I should worry about with a carbon frame? ...or does it not look too bad.

View attachment 1100631
View attachment 1100632
View attachment 1100634

View attachment 1100633


Thanks alot!

Daniel


----------



## dfolta (Oct 6, 2016)

*Here are the pics*

Here are the pics:


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

You might get more appropriate responses by posting this in the cannondale mfr sub forum. This is the plus forum, and that is not a plus bike.


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## Greenneck (Oct 21, 2016)

Hi Folks,

I've ordered a Bad Habit 1 that should arrive next week.
Hooray!

However I want to change the front chainring to a 26 tooth for the 1x11.
[I've spent a while on Sheldon Browns gear calculator and 26 teeth will suit me].

Can anyone help me with what products are available?
Would be great to find a direct mount ring compatible with the cannondale crank.

Thanks!


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Absolute Black


----------



## Greenneck (Oct 21, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Absolute Black


Thanks for the reply, looks like a cool company.
Unfortunately it does not look like they do a 26 :/


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Greenneck said:


> Thanks for the reply, looks like a cool company.
> Unfortunately it does not look like they do a 26 :/


Ari Corone

[email protected]

bye


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## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

Does any know the weight of the Bad habit carbon 1 wheels?

greets


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Greenneck said:


> Thanks for the reply, looks like a cool company.
> Unfortunately it does not look like they do a 26 :/


I'm not sure why you would need a 26. I have a 32 on my bad habit with 11-36 cassette out back. Smallest I would consider would be 30.

They do have 28 though and it's probably splitting hairs to say you need a 26.

absoluteBLACK | Cannondale Round DM chainrings


----------



## Greenneck (Oct 21, 2016)

prj71 said:


> I'm not sure why you would need a 26. I have a 32 on my bad habit with 11-36 cassette out back. Smallest I would consider would be 30.
> 
> They do have 28 though and it's probably splitting hairs to say you need a 26.
> 
> absoluteBLACK | Cannondale Round DM chainrings


That would be because I weigh 220 lbs, live in the middle of a mountain range and have a health condition that means I lose my fitness 2-3 times a year.

On my previous bike I was running 20 front and 34 rear, and that was great for rebuilding my fitness on the hills.


----------



## edoubleu (Nov 7, 2014)

Can anyone direct me to a comprehensive review of the Bad Habit, preferably the new Carbon 1 if possible? I'm leaning towards buying the BHC1 over the Stumpy Expert 6Fattie but it's hard to pull the trigger when I can't find any complete reviews of the original BH much less the carbon version. As for trying them out I haven't been able to find a real demo of either in NJ.


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Cannondale Bad Habit Plus Bike - Test Ride Review | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

prj71 said:


> I'm not sure why you would need a 26. I have a 32 on my bad habit with 11-36 cassette out back. Smallest I would consider would be 30.
> 
> They do have 28 though and it's probably splitting hairs to say you need a 26.
> 
> absoluteBLACK | Cannondale Round DM chainrings


"I use this gear, and it works for me, so it makes the most sense for everyone everywhere"

He's just glad you don't ride a rigid singlespeed, then he'd really feel like a Nancy boy!


----------



## edoubleu (Nov 7, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Cannondale Bad Habit Plus Bike - Test Ride Review | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


Thanks, appreciate it. Short review but better than nothing. I really wish I could get my hands on one for a test ride. You never know how it's going to feel regardless of geo and specs. For example I rode a 2017 Trek Fuel EX9 today. Heard only glowing things about it and while it did have great attributes, overall it just didn't do it for me.


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

edoubleu said:


> Thanks, appreciate it. Short review but better than nothing. I really wish I could get my hands on one for a test ride. You never know how it's going to feel regardless of geo and specs. For example I rode a 2017 Trek Fuel EX9 today. Heard only glowing things about it and while it did have great attributes, overall it just didn't do it for me.


Think I might be the only CBH uno owner/poster here. Will say that pretty much everything the review says is right on. Don't know if he had the upgraded Lefty or not. But ride with the upgrade is even better than original. I do find the recommendations on rear sag too soft and run much lower sag. I've got my bike weight down around 28 lb. XL frame w/o dropper and it climbs like a goat. If fact I dropped three riders younger than me (62yrs) on 29er's going up pretty good climb from gorge to above a dam (tfinator will know what I'm talking about).

My LBS owner suggested the plus bike to me. He didn't have any XL frames except his own Specialize plus to demo. I don't know exact model but probably top of line 2016. While it was nice I found the Cannondale a bit quicker off the line and little more nibble. This was parking lot riding.


----------



## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Radioactive said:


> If fact I dropped three riders younger than me (62yrs) on 29er's going up pretty good climb from gorge to above a dam (tfinator will know what I'm talking about).


I do indeed, it's a good climb. I believe I'll find myself doing it tomorrow.

What I really want to know, is how that bike flew over the short down hill once you passed the dam and the old carcass of the car that rolled off the highway.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> Picked up the Carbon Bad Habit today....changes Rocket Ron in rear, Next SL carbon seat post, Specialized Power Expert saddle and Raceface Chester pedals. Came in just under 28 lbs.
> 
> View attachment 1085079


Hi Radioactive,
please the weight in original and the frame size
The bike have the inner tubes ?

Many tnx


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> Think I might be the only CBH uno owner/poster here. .


I own the bike also. Have had it since April. Due to budget constraints I have the cheapest model which is the BH2. It weighed 34 lbs when I bought it. I've dropped ~5lbs from the bike with carbon bars and seatpost, a lighter seat, 1x conversion and lighter schwalbe tires that I run tubeless.

The bike rides OK. Nothing special but better than rigid. After trying some other bikes with fox shocks, I can say the RockShox Reba and Monarch shock aren't that great. I plan to upgrade them to Fox shocks sometime next summer.

Also the geometry of this bike makes me feel like I'm riding on top of the bike not in the bike if that makes sense. Took a Trek Fuel EX 27.5+ and Specialized 6fattie for a test ride couple of weeks ago and those felt better to me, but probably won't purchase either of those bikes due to low bottom bracket concerns.


----------



## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

prj71, i believe Radioactive was referring to being the only Carbon owner. There are plenty of CHB1 owners on here. My suggestion to anyone looking at a plus bike and is one to Demo versus just plunge in; check out a bikes geared around 2.8" tires. Pivot Switchblade, Ibis Mojo, and Intense ACV. There are some affordable options there.


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

tfinator said:


> I do indeed, it's a good climb. I believe I'll find myself doing it tomorrow.
> 
> What I really want to know, is how that bike flew over the short down hill once you passed the dam and the old carcass of the car that rolled off the highway.


Was thinking about also going today also, but weather and schedule got screwed up! Still want to take you up on riding offer at some point.

Might this be the carcass you're referring to:








Stupid me, kept trying to figure out how the car got there. Didn't even think of a rollover. Being SD county I should have.

Pretty much "fly" down the hill after the dam. It's the part when you transition from the gravel road to the single track. Ruts, loose soil and down sloped corners.....


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Hi Radioactive,
> please the weight in original and the frame size
> The bike have the inner tubes ?
> 
> Many tnx


My frame size is XL.

If I remember correctly the bike weighed in at about 32 lbs. or maybe 30 lbs. with everything including dropper post. I remember being surprised at how close it was to the alloy frame BH1. Sorry.

The bikes are shipped with inner tubes. I went tubeless.



prj71 said:


> I own the bike also. Have had it since April. Due to budget constraints I have the cheapest model which is the BH2. It weighed 34 lbs when I bought it. I've dropped ~5lbs from the bike with carbon bars and seatpost, a lighter seat, 1x conversion and lighter schwalbe tires that I run tubeless.
> 
> The bike rides OK. Nothing special but better than rigid. After trying some other bikes with fox shocks, I can say the RockShox Reba and Monarch shock aren't that great. I plan to upgrade them to Fox shocks sometime next summer.
> 
> Also the geometry of this bike makes me feel like I'm riding on top of the bike not in the bike if that makes sense. Took a Trek Fuel EX 27.5+ and Specialized 6fattie for a test ride couple of weeks ago and those felt better to me, but probably won't purchase either of those bikes due to low bottom bracket concerns.





idbrian said:


> prj71, i believe Radioactive was referring to being the only Carbon owner. There are plenty of CHB1 owners on here. My suggestion to anyone looking at a plus bike and is one to Demo versus just plunge in; check out a bikes geared around 2.8" tires. Pivot Switchblade, Ibis Mojo, and Intense ACV. There are some affordable options there.


Yep, I meant the "Carbon". I guess my mistake, should have put the "C" after the BH. I just assumed, since it's quite obvious that are many Bad Habit owners and he called out the Carbon 1, that the OP would understand what I was referring too.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> My frame size is XL.
> 
> If I remember correctly the bike weighed in at about 32 lbs. or maybe 30 lbs. with everything including dropper post. I remember being surprised at how close it was to the alloy frame BH1. Sorry.
> 
> The bikes are shipped with inner tubes. I went tubeless.


Many tnx


----------



## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

I tested the Bad Habit Carbon 2 yesterday in Large, the weight was 13,4 Kg

The dealer has also the Bad Habit Carbon 1 in Medium, the weight was 13,0 Kg


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Adamsmith said:


> I tested the Bad Habit Carbon 2 yesterday in Large, the weight was 13,4 Kg
> 
> The dealer has also the Bad Habit Carbon 1 in Medium, the weight was 13,0 Kg


Many tnx for information 
The weight with o without pedal ?

Impression about the bike ?

Tnx


----------



## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Interesting to note that this bike has a Lefty on it. Cannondale website shows it with a Rockshox Pike.

Bad Habit Carbon 2 Cannondale Bicycles


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

In The Europa website The bike have a Lefty fork


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Adamsmith said:


> I tested the Bad Habit Carbon 2 yesterday in Large, the weight was 13,4 Kg
> 
> The dealer has also the Bad Habit Carbon 1 in Medium, the weight was 13,0 Kg


Thanks for the figures. My head had so many figures in it between the carbon model and the alloy model. So the weight for XL would be closer to the 13,6 Kg/30 lbs figure. I believe that would be without pedals. With the changes I made and adding pedals, my build out weight was just under 12,7 Kg/28 lbs.



[email protected] said:


> Many tnx for information
> The weight with o without pedal ?
> 
> Impression about the bike ?
> ...


Besides being lighter in weight the Carbon 1 also has a lot better rear hub and crankset. The carbon rims are 35mm so you can use a 2.8 tire without a problem.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> Besides being lighter in weight the Carbon 1 also has a lot better rear hub and crankset. The carbon rims are 35mm so you can use a 2.8 tire without a problem.


From Cannondale website, the carbon rims from carbon 1 model, are 40mm
-- from website ------------------------------------------------

HollowGram 40, Superlight Hi-Impact Carbon, 40mm inner, hookless, tubeless ready

----------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> From Cannondale website, the carbon rims from carbon 1 model, are 40mm
> -- from website ------------------------------------------------
> 
> HollowGram 40, Superlight Hi-Impact Carbon, 40mm inner, hookless, tubeless ready
> ...


I stand corrected. Yes, 40mm is the correct size. Too early in the morning, not enough coffee and age related memory loss.


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> I stand corrected. Yes, 40mm is the correct size. Too early in the morning, not enough coffee and age related memory lost.


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

don't worry - have a nice day

bye


----------



## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Many tnx for information
> The weight with o without pedal ?
> 
> Impression about the bike ?
> ...


The weight was without pedals.

The Bad Habit Carbon 1 was upgraded with tubeless Kit - > 12,7 Kg.
The innertubes has a weight of 280 gramms (dealer says)

Impression of the Bad habit carbon 2 - I was only 15 min on the Bike on The streets.
It feels very light, very good.

The green colour is in real, very much better than on the pictures.

greets


----------



## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

@Radioactive

You have a XL frame, how tall are you?


----------



## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Adamsmith said:


> The weight was without pedals.
> 
> The Bad Habit Carbon 1 was upgraded with tubeless Kit - > 12,7 Kg.
> The innertubes has a weight of 280 gramms (dealer says)
> ...


Hi Adamsmith
tnx for the info.
The weight is not so bad 
I think for me also size L, cm.188 tall, inseam cm. 90

bye


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

Adamsmith said:


> @Radioactive
> 
> You have a XL frame, how tall are you?


190,5 cm


----------



## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Hi Adamsmith
> tnx for the info.
> The weight is not so bad
> I think for me also size L, cm.188 tall, inseam cm. 90
> ...


If you are considering buying, I strongly suggest that you demo a XL frame in the Bad Habit or the regular Habit. At the very least sit on L frame. This is a trail geometry frame and you sit high as prj71 described and more compact then an XC frame. At 188 cm you might find the L a little tight.


----------



## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

I think radioactive is right. 
I am 1,84 m tall and have 88 cm inseam. 
I tested the L one and I think its to small for me. The the saddle is to high vs. The handlebar, look at the picture. 
I must test a XL one too and then decide.


----------



## edoubleu (Nov 7, 2014)

Radioactive said:


> Think I might be the only CBH uno owner/poster here. Will say that pretty much everything the review says is right on. Don't know if he had the upgraded Lefty or not. But ride with the upgrade is even better than original. I do find the recommendations on rear sag too soft and run much lower sag. I've got my bike weight down around 28 lb. XL frame w/o dropper and it climbs like a goat. If fact I dropped three riders younger than me (62yrs) on 29er's going up pretty good climb from gorge to above a dam (tfinator will know what I'm talking about).
> 
> My LBS owner suggested the plus bike to me. He didn't have any XL frames except his own Specialize plus to demo. I don't know exact model but probably top of line 2016. While it was nice I found the Cannondale a bit quicker off the line and little more nibble. This was parking lot riding.


Thanks for this. I'm going to hold off on the BHC1 until if and when I can test ride it. I'm not a Trek fan per se - in fact I've never owned one - but I will say their frequent demo days make it a lot easier to decide if you like their bikes or not. I tried finding demo days on Cannondale's site. At first the U.S. page was showing U.K. info (!), then they fixed it a few days later but it didn't show anything upcoming at all. That and no links to to pro or user reviews on their site. It seems they don't know the world changed to digital. Anyway, if I ever do buy one I'll come back here and post my thoughts. Peace out.


----------



## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

Which one of you all has a Bad habit in size L or XL and how tall are you and what inseam?

Thanks


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> If you are considering buying, I strongly suggest that you demo a XL frame in the Bad Habit or the regular Habit. At the very least sit on L frame. This is a trail geometry frame and you sit high as prj71 described and more compact then an XC frame. At 188 cm you might find the L a little tight.


Tnx for the advice


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## c0alition (Oct 20, 2014)

*Also cracked my frame..*



Big Chris in NePa said:


> So then this.....
> Swing arm is cracked, near seat tube pivot mounting point, adjacent to weld. Took to LBS, processed warranty claim, part is in stock, expect replacement in 5 days.
> 
> View attachment 1062214
> ...


So, mine also cracked - in the same exact spot. Even down to running to the same hole... I'm not very hopeful about a replacement now unless they did a different batch of swingarms as replacements... Anybody else run into this on newer models?


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Tnx for your answer
> 
> bye
> 
> ...


The Cannondale site now :

Fork Lefty 2.0 Alloy OPI, 120mm, Isolated Damper Technology with Trail+ tune, 2Spring and updated controls, 55mm offset

No more XLOC remote


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

c0alition said:


> So, mine also cracked - in the same exact spot. Even down to running to the same hole... I'm not very hopeful about a replacement now unless they did a different batch of swingarms as replacements... Anybody else run into this on newer models?
> 
> View attachment 1106519
> View attachment 1106520


Mine cracked but was replaced under warranty. So far, so good.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## holiday (Apr 27, 2004)

I have a few hours on the Carbon 1 bad habit, great bike!

I bought a M for my wife, and it can fit me with similar reach and spacing to my Large ibis mojo 3 (I"m 5ft 11). I have ridden them extensively back to back, (to dial in for her )

My ibis w/ ibis 742 carbon wheels and XO is 2 lbs lighter w/ same tires (mostly AL rear triangle on bad habit, and I think they use a bit heavy hubs for those carbon wheels)

that said, I love the cdale. I like the front end better then my Ibis, steering feel and precision are better. Has me thinking a lot about fork offset... which is a can of worms. 51 mm offset on ibis is too much.. carbon 2 cdale has 42mm offset pike, lefty is 55mm, but I don't think it lines up, as cdale plays w/ the distance in the crown too. I think it is functionally a 42mm offset, as trail dimension is same between carbon 1 and carbon 2)

back to review. Bad Habit is 2lbs heavier, but in a few back to back rides, I have been faster both up and down the hill on bad habit then my own well tested ibis. Same exact tire (rekon 2.8 rear, 3.0 nick front), same pressure, same seat to bar dimensions, same 1x11 drivetrain, just that steeper head angle makes ups better w/ lefty, and the less fork offset makes the bike carve turns better on the down. Not that speed is the important thing, I think plus bikes are 1-5% slower, and 15-20% more fun, playful and easier on body... 


Bad habit is a 5500 retail bike, my ibis is a 7500 retail bike....

more background may be in order, I have spent more time going fast on a lefty then anything else, and the "rize" suspension of this bike is very familiar. I rode a rize w/ a lefty hard for about 5 years, and won my class in downieville with it in 09. 3rd in downvieville DH in 1999 on lefty equiped cdale too, so I have bonded well w/ cdales and lefty...


Anyway, this bike is awesome!

I am considering geting a carbon 2, selling my ibis, swapping wheels, and maybe stealing my wifes lefty for it (but I'd prob build up a different front wheel, as the cdale hubs are heavy.

Cheeers!

Holiday


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## idbrian (May 10, 2006)

For technical riding i like the geometry of the Mojo3 quite a bit more than the BH1. The BH1 did not feel very limber. Out of any bike i have ridden i struggled with getting the BH1 front wheel up. I should add that I went from a Alum BH1 to a Mojo3 all carbon, so there was significant weight savings. 

I also personally like the 2.8" tires more than the 3"; again due to rocky technical terrain. Too many side tears in the BH1 3" tires, even after going to NN's with Trail Protection.


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## holiday (Apr 27, 2004)

Yes, I can see that with the AL one, you are probably 4 lbs heavier and flexier too.

I am running 2.8 rekon on the rear of both bikes, and 3.0 nobby nick on front. Nobby nicks are great front, terrible rear as they pinch easy. The 3.0 is better front for me on both bikes then the 2.8 nick.

Your word, Limber, is the loaded one. Only thing I don't love on my mojo is the quick steering. Interesting that most 27.5 bikes are speccing 43-44 offset forks, while 29ers are 51.

carbon bad habit is a great one.

cheers!
W


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> If you are considering buying, I strongly suggest that you demo a XL frame in the Bad Habit or the regular Habit. At the very least sit on L frame. This is a trail geometry frame and you sit high as prj71 described and more compact then an XC frame. At 188 cm you might find the L a little tight.


comparing the geometry of Bad Habit with Norco Torrent 7.1 (size L), which I use since March, it seems OK size L also on Bad Habit?!?!


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> comparing the geometry of Bad Habit with Norco Torrent 7.1 (size L), which I use since March, it seems OK size L also on Bad Habit?!?!


I am no expert in bike geometry, but I have worked with descriptive and plane geometry since I have a degree in geology. Looking at the diagram that Cannondale has for their key measurements, it seems to me that "B", top tube horizontal is really how you sit in the cockpit. It takes into account head tube angle, seat tube angle and top tube actual. In this measurement the Norco "L" is actually larger than the CDale "L". How you sit in it will of course depend on your body measurements. Do you have an inseam like a NBA player or arms like a Tyrannosaurus? I suggested the XL since I know how it "feels"(it's borderline tight for me and I'm actually considering a longer stem) and there is only 2.5cm difference in our heights. I still would recommend at the least trying the XL. But it really comes down to what you feel comfortable with.

Edit-additional info My "B" measurement is 66.5cm and seat top to flat pedal is 98cm following seat post tube.


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

holiday said:


> Yes, I can see that with the AL one, you are probably 4 lbs heavier and flexier too.
> 
> I am running 2.8 rekon on the rear of both bikes, and 3.0 nobby nick on front. Nobby nicks are great front, terrible rear as they pinch easy. The 3.0 is better front for me on both bikes then the 2.8 nick.
> 
> ...


+1

At my bike weight of approx. 28 lbs, the Carbon frame, stiffer crankset and higher engagement points rear hub; I'd describe it as "Nimble". I'll leave "Limber" for yoga and kama sutra  Still feels a little "heavy" in the front for wheelies. But with a little practice and blue pill, I can get it up to 12+ inches.

BTW, WTB has a new tire that has similar tread pattern to Rocket Ron, but lighter and the LBS tells me faster rolling. Don't know if 2.8 and/or 3.0.


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## [email protected] (Feb 17, 2016)

Radioactive said:


> I am no expert in bike geometry, but I have worked with descriptive and plane geometry since I have a degree in geology. Looking at the diagram that Cannondale has for their key measurements, it seems to me that "B", top tube horizontal is really how you sit in the cockpit. It takes into account head tube angle, seat tube angle and top tube actual. In this measurement the Norco "L" is actually larger than the CDale "L". How you sit in it will of course depend on your body measurements. Do you have an inseam like a NBA player or arms like a Tyrannosaurus? I suggested the XL since I know how it "feels"(it's borderline tight for me and I'm actually considering a longer stem) and there is only 2.5cm difference in our heights. I still would recommend at the least trying the XL. But it really comes down to what you feel comfortable with.
> 
> Edit-additional info My "B" measurement is 66.5cm and seat top to flat pedal is 98cm following seat post tube.


Hi Radioactive,
Thanks for your suggestions
I am seeking a Cannondale Dealer with test bikes

bye


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## Osco (Apr 4, 2013)

I'm not a Cannondale rider, never been on one but at my LBS, they had this carbon Bad Habbit. The paint job was a satin green and had this blue tint when the light hit it just right.
UBC
I have never seen anything like It







Had to be seen In person, the paint job was Unreal~


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## oldgoldtiger (Dec 25, 2015)

Golddr2000 said:


> Hello, I have a BH1 and the only way I could figure to run an internal dropper is to run the cable down the front of the down tube then up through the hole at the bottom of the seat tube. It works great for me.


I just picked up my Black Friday purchase, a KS Lev Integra dropper post. I was looking at the cable routing on the down tube and was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the transition from the down tube to the internal seat tube hole.

Also, I have the BH1 and have always been a bit indifferent to the color, not even really sure what it is. Anyway I'm putting some RockFace Chesters on my Christmas list. They come in a variety of colors. Anyone found a color that is complementary and provides a bit of pop? I plan to upgrade the grips in the same color as well.

Roger


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## BradOlsen84 (Jul 15, 2013)

I just bought a Cannondale habit SE 2016.
I am courious if I could buy a rear triangle of the bad habit and run a rear boosted hub with much more room? Anyone working in a shop could probably say yes or no. 

Cheers!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I would say no, because the Bad Habit has the AI Offset.

https://cannondale.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/219101107-Ai-Asymmetric-Integration-


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## c0alition (Oct 20, 2014)

Shop answer says swapping triangles should be fine, but spindle differences will be the problem.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I think the chainline will be off. The regular Habit doesn't have the offset.


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## BradOlsen84 (Jul 15, 2013)

What do you mean by the spindle? The thru axle?. Sorry I have never heard this term on a bike unless its a pedal spindle.

I have to take a good look when I go pick up my bike. But if its just the 6mm offset. depending on the chain-rings i know you can eat that up. Who knows. Just wish Cannondale went with boosted rear for 2016 or 2017 Habit SE or had a priced right Bad habit. 34lbs is just to much for me.

Thanks


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## c0alition (Oct 20, 2014)

On these bikes, they use a spindle to connect the crank arms to each other. The Cannondale SI Crank has multiple spindle lengths depending on the bike you're using it for. If the rear triangle widens out, the shorter (I don't know the actual lengths, maybe not a problem) spindle may keep the crank arms too close to the chainstay and cause problems.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The bad habit has a 137 mm spindle. It is wider than the habit spindle to account for the extra 6mm width difference between the habit (142 hub) and the bad habit (148 hub)


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## studiddy (Feb 27, 2007)

A little bit late to the BH game but picked one up last month. The only real riding I've done on it was when it was in the teens outside so I haven't done anything crazy or super aggressive, but so far I'm happy with it. Not sure what it weighs as I haven't weighed it yet, but I've done the mandatory tubeless conversion and switched to XO from GX. Some Nobby Nics that are en route and I suspect they'll make the most noticeable difference though.
No action pics, but I can say that SKS Grand MOM and Shockblade 2 fenders look like they'll work well. I forget what the one on the lower tube is called but it will stay on all the time (big ones will obviously not stay on.








r










The stock brakes seem okay but I'm not in love with the modulation so I'll swap some Saints or Zees on whenever the Renthal fatbar light gets here.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Osco said:


> I'm not a Cannondale rider, never been on one but at my LBS, they had this carbon Bad Habbit. The paint job was a satin green and had this blue tint when the light hit it just right.
> UBC
> I have never seen anything like It
> View attachment 1108089
> ...


Anyone here have this bike?


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## bikewerx (Dec 10, 2012)

My Bad Habit Carbon 1


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## holiday (Apr 27, 2004)

*congrats!*



bikewerx said:


> My Bad Habit Carbon 1
> 
> View attachment 1119288
> 
> ...


Congratulations on the new ride!

People talk about the specialized fatty and the ibis and hightower so much, but I've ridden all of 'em, and the Bad Habit is my favorite!

Nice choice!

Cheers,
Holiday


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## bikewerx (Dec 10, 2012)

Congratulations on the new ride!

People talk about the specialized fatty and the ibis and hightower so much, but I've ridden all of 'em, and the Bad Habit is my favorite!

Nice choice!

Cheers,
Holiday[/QUOTE]

Thanks,

I was looking into the Ibis and a Santa Cruz. Then I saw the Bad Habit and it was game over. 27.5+, Carbon, and a Lefty!!


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## L0WLIGHT (Nov 25, 2016)

*Actually tubeless ready!*

Stan's tape, right out of the crate, my Bad Habit 1 is the first "tubeless ready" bike that actually was... well, tubeless ready. Just add a valve stem and sealant. Front tire took, from start to finish, about 10 minutes (Thanks Lefty!)


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## Radioactive (Jun 18, 2016)

FYI......There is now a cup and bearing system for Cannondale BB's. I was at LBS today and owner told me about. Got to talking on other things and forgot to get manufacture. Sorry


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## Laesk (Mar 4, 2017)

prj71 said:


> Anyone here have this bike?


About two weeks I get my green carbon 2 with Lefty 2.0 in XL.


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## wcoyne (May 10, 2014)

If anyone is interested in some I9 Hugo Torch wheels for your bad habit I have some I am selling off of my BH1 since I am trading it for a different bike. I do not have them in my possession since my local bike shop is taking everything I added to the Bad Habit off and I will pick up whatever doesn't go on the Remedy 8 and sale it off. Here is a pic of one of the wheels plus a link to I9 website. Make a reasonable offer and I will post more pics and make a classified ad once I have them back. I will sale the Nobby Nics along with the wheels or separately if someone wants them also. The wheels have less than 30 miles on them and the tires around 50. I am just going a different way. The bike will be for sale also if someone is looking for a used BH1. PM me and I can give you my LBS information if you want the bike

Industry Nine - Stock Torch Hugo


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## holiday (Apr 27, 2004)

Cross post, 

Listed a Med Bad Habit for sale in classifieds. My wife loved it, and so did I, but injuries and limited riding... only 3k, ridden lightly... 3.0nn front, 2.8rekon rear, raceface dropper w/ trigger mech.

Thx for sending any interested friends my way.

Cheers,
Holiday


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## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

Finally got my BH1, what a blast ! There is a big grin on my face riding this toy 









Ordered some lighter tires and stems + fluid, but other than that good to go


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## dwilson (Dec 8, 2006)

*Bad habit sizing*

greetings,

Looking into a BH1. At 5'11" I find myself between M & L a lot on different bikes and have owned both. I used to be 6' but shrunk with age. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave


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## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

dwilson said:


> greetings,
> 
> Looking into a BH1. At 5'11" I find myself between M & L a lot on different bikes and have owned both. I used to be 6' but shrunk with age. Any advice appreciated.
> 
> ...


I´m 5´11 to (182cm) and i have a Large, fits me perfect.
I could not see myself on a Medium, but you should try both sizes if you can.


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## jga013 (Nov 2, 2015)

I'm 5'9" and riding a Large. Its probably a little big for me, but not bad with a 40mm stem. The Reach measurement for the large Bad Habit is closer to other brands mediums (especially with this new progressive geometry that everyone is shifting towards).


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

Stemag said:


> Finally got my BH1, what a blast ! There is a big grin on my face riding this toy
> Ordered some lighter tires and stems + fluid, but other than that good to go


I put on some lighter tires and went tubeless... 2.4 pounds shaved.


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## Ovelowd (Feb 12, 2017)

dwilson said:


> greetings,
> 
> Looking into a BH1. At 5'11" I find myself between M & L a lot on different bikes and have owned both. I used to be 6' but shrunk with age. Any advice appreciated.
> 
> ...


I'm 6'2" with a 6'4" wingspan, and on a large Bad Habit Carbon 1. I find it too small for me. I'm awaiting a new riser bar, with 38 mm rise, and I've just adjusted the seat back as much as possible. Will probably have to sell it, but I'm trying not to.


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## beardedbiker (Jan 16, 2009)

I'm having a blast on my Bad Habit: https://beardedbiker.blogspot.com/2017/07/cannondale-bad-habit-1-video-review.html


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## Zebediela (Jul 29, 2017)

I ride a Bad Habit Carbon 2 in that particularly awesome green. I've upgraded a few things. I run a 1x absoluteBLACK 34t oval chain ring which makes the whole drivechain better imo. Incredible climbing performace especially. Upgraded to an Easton Haven carbon bar which is narrower by a few mm, but after a couple of tree strikes i'm fine with that. 
Simply put this is the best bike I've ever ridden. And I tested prettu much everything on the market before I bought one. The most enjoyable bike that nearly turned my head instead was the Whyte T-130, but the plus tyres of the Bad Habit won out, for me.
I'm able to keep up with longer travel bikes on the dowhills due to the give from the 3.0 Nobby Nics and yet at the bottom I can smash any enduro bike on the uphills, it's a dream.
Seriously considering getting some 29er wheels built up for XC racing on it. Probs Easton carbon rims with Hope hubs.
The only slight niggle is the less power of the SRAM Guide brakes than my SLX/XT combination from my hardtail bike. The Guides seem to have slightly better modulation, but I'm thinking of going back to Shimano as I miss the power. Or maybe I will get some Hope E4s.
Anywho, I would recommend this bike to anyone who is looking at buying an enduro bike, but still wants excellent climbing performace. #plustyresnotlongtravel 

Catch you all at Ard Rock Enduro next week if anyone is there.


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## scwatts01 (May 28, 2017)

Hello! I am selling my Bad Habit 2 to upgrade to the Carbon Version! If you are interested in purchasing it please let me know! It's a large frame that was purchased maybe 2 months ago and has about 15 easy rides on it. 

Also, I am wondering if anyone has ever put a longer travel fork on the bad habit? I am considering putting a 140/150mm pike on it but I am concerned with how it might change the geometry. Has anyone tried this with their bike?


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## L0WLIGHT (Nov 25, 2016)

scwatts01 said:


> I am considering putting a 140/150mm pike on it but I am concerned with how it might change the geometry. Has anyone tried this with their bike?


It would be wise for you to start test-riding plus bikes with longer travel. In my experience, changing fork travel WILL effect the geometry and steering, longer travel=slower steering and therefore a less-playful bike. I doubt you'll be happy with the longer forks. My 2¢.


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## Ovelowd (Feb 12, 2017)

The Nukeproof Warhead 38 mm riser bar is now tried and tested. It does make a difference. I no longer feel like my legs and the bar is competing for the same space, and I feel like I can weight the front wheel without the sensation of potentially going OTB. The bike is now good enough to keep. If given the option, I'd still go for an XL, but I'm sticking with my large frame and the 38 mm riser bar for now.


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## glenzx (Dec 19, 2003)

Yes you are!


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## dwilson (Dec 8, 2006)

Thanks or the input!


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## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Has anyone changed the rear shock on their bad habit not happy with the monarch.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Mine was replaced under warranty and rockshox upgraded me to the RT3. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## cprtrails (Dec 17, 2015)

Bought a hybrid last year to get back on two wheels and get out with my 1yr old daughter. I have been lurking on the forum ever since. Finally placed an order for a left over 2017 BH1 with Fox Transfer dropper and tubeless conversion OTD for a great deal. I'm looking forward to hitting the trails on my first real MTB. Thanks for all of the great info on this thread.


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## Flbobcat (Oct 10, 2017)

I just bought a 2017 Bad Habit 1 alloy with the Lefty 
I looked at the 2018 Cannondale lineup and there is no Alloy Bad Habit 1 with a Lefty. At the Alloy lefty price point it's now the Bad Habit 3 with a conventional fork. I got my bike at REI at 20% off with member perks. If you want an alloy frame with a Lefty it is still an option. Also a great price.


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## cprtrails (Dec 17, 2015)

Flbobcat said:


> I just bought a 2017 Bad Habit 1 alloy with the Lefty
> I looked at the 2018 Cannondale lineup and there is no Alloy Bad Habit 1 with a Lefty. At the Alloy lefty price point it's now the Bad Habit 3 with a conventional fork. I got my bike at REI at 20% off with member perks. If you want an alloy frame with a Lefty it is still an option. Also a great price.


Yea same model I ordered. I also looked at the 2018's and for the price I was happy with the 2017 Bad Habit 1 alloy. The blue frame and Lefty isn't for everyone, but I think it looks nice.


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## Flbobcat (Oct 10, 2017)

*2017 Bad Habit 1 closeout*

Here's your chance to get a 2017 Bad Habit 1 alloy with a Lefty at an unreal price. REI is closing them out for less than $2400 which is 30% off. I guarantee you'll love it. I know I love mine.


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## cprtrails (Dec 17, 2015)

I would check your local bike shops first. Mine had BH1 on sale for $2,199 as did another shop less than an hour away. Picked mine up on Thursday, but haven't had a chance to ride yet.


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## cprtrails (Dec 17, 2015)

Finally got out for my first ride on the BH1 at some local trails. Bike is awesome, I had a blast. Ran tubeless with 16 front and 18 rear and it seemed like a great starting point. Tires rolled over everything and did not feel to soft or bouncy. Glad I didn’t spend more on a carbon model, I’m very happy with the aluminum. Photo from ride below, but I’ll have to get a better one showing the bike.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

Have a BH1C on the way.

Was a fat biker but got out of it last year with a lack of time, sleep, etc.

Can't wait to get some exercise again.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

Got the Bad Habit Carbon 1 last night. Took it out twice today.

Not long rides. Out of shape and my buddy who I ride with is worse off than I threw in the towel early.

Tires had too much pressure from the bike shop as they aired up to seat tubeless arrangement. I was lacking confidence on the down hills and climbs. Bouncing off line, sliding, etc..

Later I took it out again solo and took some air out. Didn't have a gauge, just went by feel. Marked difference everywhere regarding performance. Now it is climbing better and riding smoother. With the appropriate traction it also allowed line changes anywhere without fear of slipping.

Really digging the bike. This is the nicest bike I have ever ridden or owned.

Sit bones will be hurting tomorrow. Couple days from now I will head out again to build the endurance up.

Is anybody worried about rocks hitting the swingarm, wheels, or frame?

I am in Las Vegas and we get all of these big rocks in the middle of trails which are annoying as well as damaging should you contact them.

Cringe fest having this expensive of a ride getting tagged by baby heads.


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## cprtrails (Dec 17, 2015)

I've only been out twice on mine and 16 front and 18 back worked well. I have a digital gauge i bought from local bike shop, but ended up buying this manual gauge based on reviews on mtbr and it's a great gauge at a great price. Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge with Pressure Relief: 30psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XISIK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uVAEnN7SxheSR

As for rocks, I have the BH1 Aluminum so i may not be as concerned as if i had the carbon components. There are some guards that guys made up and discuss earlier on this thread you could go back and review.

Winter is here in the N.E. so i haven't had a chance to get out again recently. The wife is nagging me to finish he basement renovation so I'm already looking forward to spring. Glad you're enjoying your bike, I agree it's a fun ride.


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

hello to all,  after having translated and read all your posts, :thumbsup:I introduce myself I entered the forum because maybe I'm the only Italian-Milanese who bought the BH2 (orange) and if you want to communicate with you with google translator


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

also my BH2 (orange) has had all the problems of yours, screws of the cables, thread of the gearbox ...... luckily the frame is still ok
I already have it in my box ready for editing:
2 nobby nic 27.5 x 2.8 (total -600gr)
2 air chambers (total -400gr)
seat post rok-shok reverbe

next step:
28t crown (GARBARUK OFFSET 6,7 MM AND 55 GR)
sprocket set 11-42 t sunrace CSMX3TAY (with red aluminum spacers and spacers)


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

scintilla said:


> hello to all,  after having translated and read all your posts, :thumbsup:I introduce myself I entered the forum because maybe I'm the only Italian-Milanese who bought the BH2 (orange) and if you want to communicate with you with google translator


Welcome.

I hope my bicycle does not have the same problems.

I am in love with mine.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

I took my bike out for the 3rd ride.

The bike is amazing. So light for full suspension. When going down hill it is amazing how composed it is while catching air.

I am afraid of damage from our rocky desert terrain though. The rear wheel already has scratches and I hear the rocks banging and clanging off of the bike.

This is my first carbon bike so I am not sure if I should be scared or just ride it and it will not break.


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

thank you

mine and yours will not have them:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

carbon bike is magical:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

is yours green?


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

please can you help me?
today I was going to buy the mono crown and the seller did not know which is good, for the crowns, you know that there are differences between bad habit 2 year 2015 and bad habit 2 year 2017
or can you tell me:
* between this
https://garbaruk.com/products/chainrings/round/direct-mount/cannondale-hollowgram.html
it's this one
https://garbaruk.com/products/chainrings/round/direct-mount/cannondale-hollowgram-ai.html
which is better?


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## SSsteel4life (Jul 1, 2016)

Hi, was wondering if 2017 Bad habit alloy owners have experienced the cracked frame issue like some of the 2016, wonder if Cannondale has addressed it?


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

I rode around on my neighbor’s Spec Fuse. I’m digging the 27+ setup. I have an F29er that will apparently accept 2.8s with a 27+ setup but I fear that the old 3x9 drivetrain will not have chain clearance. By the time I upgrade to a 1x11, I’m looking at $1000 into a 9 year old bike. If the BH1 is still available for $2100, it would make more sense to do that, right? My question is this: have the early frame failures been resolved. I’ve heard Lefty needs maintenance to be kept up on and that isn’t a big deal, but broken frames aren’t something I want to mess with. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ovelowd (Feb 12, 2017)

...


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## Ovelowd (Feb 12, 2017)

SSsteel4life said:


> Hi, was wondering if 2017 Bad habit alloy owners have experienced the cracked frame issue like some of the 2016, wonder if Cannondale has addressed it?


My very early 2017 Bad Habit Carbon 1 cracked in the alu rear, near the seat tube pivot mounting point, adjacent to the weld. Cannondale replaced it, no issues. The carbon frame then developed a hairline crack by the BB. Frame got replaced with a 2018, no issues.


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

I ordered a 2017 Bad Habit 1 today. Should be here on Tuesday. I’m pretty excited. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

I ordered a BH1 2 weeks ago as well. The LBS said there had been an update to the Lefty to address the "reset" of the bearings. My current bike is a Cujo 2 (which is also great fun) and I am excited to get a full sus version of this bike with the additional component upgrades. Since the BH1 was down to $2,200, I am changing the tires out to Rekon+ tubeless (have these on the Cujo, dropped 1.25 lbs off each wheel switching from the Bridgers w/tubes not to mention how much better they grip), drive train to Eagle GX 1x12, and better grips. The LBS gave credit for all the stock stuff stuff so after pedals and tax, it comes to $2,750. Still less than the 2017 price of the bike. Crazy value.


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

nibblecuda said:


> I ordered a BH1 2 weeks ago as well. The LBS said there had been an update to the Lefty to address the "reset" of the bearings. My current bike is a Cujo 2 (which is also great fun) and I am excited to get a full sus version of this bike with the additional component upgrades. Since the BH1 was down to $2,200, I am changing the tires out to Rekon+ tubeless (have these on the Cujo, dropped 1.25 lbs off each wheel switching from the Bridgers w/tubes not to mention how much better they grip), drive train to Eagle GX 1x12, and better grips. The LBS gave credit for all the stock stuff stuff so after pedals and tax, it comes to $2,750. Still less than the 2017 price of the bike. Crazy value.


You'll love it. I got mine out over the weekend and had a blast. I will definitely be looking into those tires because the WTBs can be a little sluggish.

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## stangmanrider (Oct 18, 2017)

...


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

The Bridgers do well on tacky ground and sand, but much else and the front washes out. If I had it to do over I would run screws through the Bridgers for some home made studded tires. I did this with the Rangers for my Cujo. Enough grip to pull my son around the frozen pond and crash him into the cat tails. I don't plan on riding the BH in the snow and ice so I will be waiting a couple of months yet.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ASV9O50EZTEpST1K3


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

While that is a super cool setup, I don't get enough snow to justify studding tires. I was honestly happy with the traction from the stock tires. I did notice that the BH picked up 2.8" tires for 2018. I wonder what drove the change. Could be anything from function to tire availability/price. I don't think I would want a smaller rollout than what the bike already has. It didn't feel like the BB was super high in the first place.

Review that I posted in the C'dale forum.

Bad: considerable weight and drag in the wheels and tires versus my DT Swiss and Racing Ralph 29er setup. Not that I didn't expect it, but I was huffing up some climbs I typically cruise up. You feel the suspension sapping away energy if you are just trying to will the bike up the hill in those high drag situations versus getting your cadence high and lower gear. Not a sprinting bike so to speak.

Good: OMG, the traction. I didn't walk up anything yesterday which is abnormal for snow and ice. Sections that I don't clean when it is moderately wet were easily cleaned. The grip leaning into a turn is fantastic considering the low mu trails. I'm sure on dirt it will be a blast. Once rolling, the 3" plus tires @ 15PSI seem to hold steam really well, especially over smaller obstacles that may unsettle a 2.25" tire at 25 PSI. The trail geo is a little light in the nose while climbing but pays big dividends when pointed downhill. Easily cleared the rocky section that I OTB'd 2 weeks ago and even had a little confidence to send it off a rock jump. The 5" travel made quick work of a super rocky segment that I actually hate on my 29ers. GX 1x11 drivetrain is slick shifting and gave me all the gear I needed. Brakes were solid but lacked just a little begin stroke modulation. The Lefty really sinks into the travel early on and gets stiffer and you approach full travel. Awesome small bump compliance.

Verdict: perfect compliment to my Scalpel - excelling at every place the Scalpel doesn't. All out speed, the Scalpel is still my faster bike, but I think this is going to be my go to for group rides or anything where the trails aren't perfect. For $2200 new, it is a hell of a value. Hopefully the frame holds up.




























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## FTF (Mar 25, 2006)

Anyone running a 29er wheelset on their bad habit?


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

FTF said:


> Anyone running a 29er wheelset on their bad habit?


I'm fairly certain it will fit depending on the tire. Without pulling a measuring tape, a 3" 27.5 and 2.25" 29 should have the same diameter. The arc will be smaller on the 29er with the narrower rim and tire, so width clearance also shouldn't be an issue.

Neither of my 29er wheelsets are boost, so I can't confirm that exact setup.

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## FTF (Mar 25, 2006)

Quentin said:


> I'm fairly certain it will fit depending on the tire. Without pulling a measuring tape, a 3" 27.5 and 2.25" 29 should have the same diameter. The arc will be smaller on the 29er with the narrower rim and tire, so width clearance also shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> Neither of my 29er wheelsets are boost, so I can't confirm that exact setup.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I think the same, but it would just be nice to see someone who has done it. Though on the first page here, someone has 3.8 Hodag tires on their bad habit and no issues, so I'm pretty darn sure it will be just fine.


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

I have around 4-5 hrs on my bike. The cable wear into the Lefty is showing up in like 3 different places. I got it wrapped up with 3M vinyl today but I’ve never seen the cables wear in like this on my past bikes. 


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## FTF (Mar 25, 2006)

One more question, has anyone put a powermeter on their bad habit?

I found this: http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/c...eagle-quarq-xx1-boost-powermeter-1039799.html

Which is about the Ai scapel, curious if the same method would work on the bad habit, seems like it would.


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## afterhours (Sep 1, 2005)

just got my bad habit carbon 2 today and when snapping a pic thought i did a good job of capturing the color shift of the paint... well for the 2017 model anyways








edit: I should say this is what it can look like... most of the time it looks the green color, the blue only shows up at certain angles and it's almost like you glance at it "wait... did that look blue??" and it's back to green


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

afterhours said:


> just got my bad habit carbon 2 today and when snapping a pic thought i did a good job of capturing the color shift of the paint... well for the 2017 model anyways
> View attachment 1181579


Damn. Nice. I kinda wish I had gone for the carbon now.

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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

Dang! I thought the green looked great. Did not realize it shifted colors. Even better! Enjoy the bike!


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## beefa69 (Nov 22, 2007)

SSsteel4life said:


> Hi, was wondering if 2017 Bad habit alloy owners have experienced the cracked frame issue like some of the 2016, wonder if Cannondale has addressed it?


I have an earl 2017 Alu frame, no problems at all. It gets ridden reasonably hard on trails that are better suited to 160mm Enduro bikes (just not as fast )


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

hello to all I present the upgrades today nobby nic 27,5 x 2,8" :thumbsup:
View attachment 1182366
View attachment 1182367
View attachment 1182368


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

upgrade yesterday, stam, and crown 24 32 in test


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

tomorrow's upgrade reverb


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## fastrob691 (Feb 22, 2018)

FTF said:


> Anyone running a 29er wheelset on their bad habit?


I set mine up like that for XC races, i ran a 12 Hour in Phoenix back in December and suffered on the climbs with it, so built up some Stans Crest Mk3 i got used.

Front was a direct swap, rear i had to get the boost spacers since all the off the shelf wheels i found in AI are 12x142 and we've got the 12x148, so i got the ebay spacer kit for the hub and brake rotor. I have to reset the derailleur for each setup as it's 3mm offset in, but plenty of range for the adjustment. It takes almost 3 pounds rotational weight off with the Sram Xo 11 speed cassette and lighter rotors vs the Xt on the 27.5 setup.


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## fastrob691 (Feb 22, 2018)

I posted below, easy swap with TONS of room on a 29x2.25 racing ralph/rocket ron combo. Saved my Legs during "The Puzzler" vs the plus set up.


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## FTF (Mar 25, 2006)

fastrob691 said:


> I set mine up like that for XC races, i ran a 12 Hour in Phoenix back in December and suffered on the climbs with it, so built up some Stans Crest Mk3 i got used.
> 
> Front was a direct swap, rear i had to get the boost spacers since all the off the shelf wheels i found in AI are 12x142 and we've got the 12x148, so i got the ebay spacer kit for the hub and brake rotor. I have to reset the derailleur for each setup as it's 3mm offset in, but plenty of range for the adjustment. It takes almost 3 pounds rotational weight off with the Sram Xo 11 speed cassette and lighter rotors vs the Xt on the 27.5 setup.


Nice, that's good to know, thanks for posting.


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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

I picked up this 17 bad habit 2 last night! Love getting deals on last years bikes, and the orange paint is just so mesmerizing in person! Fingers crossed I don't have the cracking issue with the swing arm though. Didn't even realize that was an issue until this evening.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Chris307 said:


> I picked up this 17 bad habit 2 last night! Love getting deals on last years bikes, and the orange paint is just so mesmerizing in person! Fingers crossed I don't have the cracking issue with the swing arm though. Didn't even realize that was an issue until this evening.


If you purchased from dealer then you have lifetime frame warranty

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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

prj71 said:


> If you purchased from dealer then you have lifetime frame warranty


I did! Have it registered and everything. Good to know.

Has anybody removed the remote lockout and replaced the cap with the standard turn key lockout? I need room for a dropper switch in the future and I have always run mine above the front shifter. Would go to a 1x but I prefer the range of the 2x setup for such a heavy bike.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Chris307 said:


> I did! Have it registered and everything. Good to know.
> 
> Has anybody removed the remote lockout and replaced the cap with the standard turn key lockout? I need room for a dropper switch in the future and I have always run mine above the front shifter. Would go to a 1x but I prefer the range of the 2x setup for such a heavy bike.


You can drop a little over 5lbs from this bike by replacing the seat, handlebars, seatpost, pedals going tubeless, putting on lighter tires and 1x conversion.

I did all that and am sitting around 29 lbs now. Cost me $389 for all of my upgrades. Either ebay purchases or online sales.

You can remove the remote lockout and install the RCT3 conversion kit on the Reba. I haven't done it yet, but plan to this summer.

https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Com...F8&qid=1520004214&sr=8-1&keywords=rct3+damper

There is a whole thread about it here...

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/converting-reba-rl-29-rct3-solo-air-2014-a-902664.html


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

I ordered one on Thursday. Not sure if they are available but haven't heard otherwise. This will be my first + bike. Really like that orange color.


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## Lassbo (Mar 13, 2018)

FTF said:


> Anyone running a 29er wheelset on their bad habit?


Yes i do on my carbon 1 
i ordered from tune
https://en.tune.de/produkt/wheels/mtb-wheels/29er/race-3-0.html
front: rocket ron 2.25 rear: thunder burt 2.25


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

hello today in Milan rain, and I had fun doing some tests on the bad, I mounted the wheels 27.5 "x 2.6" 12 speed of a Yeti and, the result is:
the front wheel fits perfectly
the 12 speed sprocket set does not create problems between the chain and the rear seat
*the rear wheel I confirm that it has an offset of 3 mm ONLY*


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I think it's a 6mm offset and you may get some pedal strikes with 2.6 tires cuz it lowers your BB height 

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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

Brought home the BH1 Aluminum last night. Swapped the Bridgers for 2.8 Rekon+ (measured 2.7" on these rims, same tire on my Cujo 2 is 2.6" due to the i35 rim) tubeless, GX Eagle 1x12, VP-001 pedals, Spank OOZY TRAIL 760 VIBROCOR bar trimmed to 27.5", Ergon GA3 grips. Somehow that brought the bike from a stock weight of 32 lbs (no pedals) to 34 lbs. The pedals add 3/4 lbs, but the tire conversion drops 2.25lbs (according to what I measured when I did the same conversion on my Cujo 2, Bridgers to Recon+). Looking at the weight changes on everything else, I should have netted about a 1.5lb loss. The LBS did the tubeless install, so I am not sure how much tape and sealant they used vs. how much I used on my Cujo 2.

Other than that mystery, waiting for the trails to open in MN to test the bike out.


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

mine as a photo weighs:

15,85 kg WITH WHEELS BEAST nobby 2,8" (16,85 con wtb) :nono:
WITH 11-36 10V

15,25 kg WITH WHEELS dt swiss M1700 MAXXIS ant 2,6" post 2,3" :thumbsup:
WITH 10-50 12V SRAM

MANY KG WHEELS WHEELS

WHEELS FRONT dt swiss M1700 con MAXXIS 2,6" >2,18 KG :thumbsup:

WHEELS FRONT beast con 2,8" nobby >2,44 KG 

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/wheels-mtb/all-mountain/m-1700-spline/m-1700-spline-30/ :thumbsup:

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products...e-35/:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

Okay. Tried to peel a tire off today and those WTB bridgers are a real pain to get off the "beast" scraper rims. I can't even get a tire lever under the bead to help pull it over. Tips of the trade so I can get this thing tubeless in minimal time with minimal cursing?


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

Chris307 said:


> Okay. Tried to peel a tire off today and those WTB bridgers are a real pain to get off the "beast" scraper rims. I can't even get a tire lever under the bead to help pull it over. Tips of the trade so I can get this thing tubeless in minimal time with minimal cursing?


I have solved with ,
VENUS SAPONE LIQUIDO ANTIBATTERICO 250ML
deflash the tire, push it a little bit towards the inside of the rim until it goes, it will go a little, it does not matter, put water between rim and rubber then add ,
VENUS SAPONE LIQUIDO ANTIBATTERICO 250ML
do the same job on all the diameter, repeat it on the other side and you'll see that you can push it all in, now you can put the tools


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

even the first time I drilled in the woods I could not take it apart but afterwards I got equipped with a shampoo bag from the hotel


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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

Chris307 said:


> Okay. Tried to peel a tire off today and those WTB bridgers are a real pain to get off the "beast" scraper rims. I can't even get a tire lever under the bead to help pull it over. Tips of the trade so I can get this thing tubeless in minimal time with minimal cursing?


Got it off with some elbow grease. Reseated and tubeless now! Anyone else's bridgers have a wobble to them? It took a lot of pulling to get the tubes out so I wonder if I deformed the sidewall a little bit. It's still too slushy to break them in with a proper trail ride, but that usually goes away after a while, right?


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## Jericho Cane (Mar 24, 2018)

My Bad Habit in winter mode (3.8 Hodags and 1x10), for the summer smaller tires and lighter wheels.


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## spartan_msu (May 8, 2008)

How is the clearance on the back end with the Hodag's?


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## Jericho Cane (Mar 24, 2018)

spartan_msu said:


> How is the clearance on the back end with the Hodag's?


Only about 2.5mm on each side, but it hasn't been a problem for me. I had to take the front derailleur away, because it hitted the Hodags at first. Absolutely great update for snowy trails! Friend of mine couldn't get anywhere with his 2.25" 29er in those snowy trails, where I didn't have anykind of problems, almost too fun to ride  In front, the widest side knobs almost touch the fork. You get more space if you cut those little bit narrower, but I haven't cut.


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## Fili (Sep 17, 2017)

I’d like to make the same upgrade with the hodag on my Bad habit ,do you have a more detailed picture of the back clearance?


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

What is the largest tire that will fit the Lefty version?

I miss my old fat bike and want max grip again going through heavy gravel and other soft stuff.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

Another question about suspension on the Bad Habit 1 is how are you setting up your suspension?

I had the shop adjust the air pressure and while out on the trail yesterday I finally started working on dialing suspension.

The rear shock I use the lever on the full soft setting and then the little dial I tunrned in until I stopped pogo'ing out of the seat. It seemed to stiffen the compression side as well.

Ideally I'd like less compression and more rebound.

The front, just running it soft so far.


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## Jericho Cane (Mar 24, 2018)

Fili said:


> I'd like to make the same upgrade with the hodag on my Bad habit ,do you have a more detailed picture of the back clearance?


I made the tubeless conversion to the Hodags and the tires streched a little bit too much over the night with max pressure. I had to cut the front and rear tire's side knobs and I'm mostly going to use those tires in snow. Best tire would be something like 27.5x3.6, shame that there is none.. I bought lighter wheels and tires for the summer.


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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

Really starting to love this bike more and more as the trails start to become ridable. It's a ripper, for sure. It's going to take a long time for my skill level to surpass this bikes capability.

What tire pressures are most of you guys running with the 3.0 tires? I'm probably set way too firm as I find a lot of skipping happening as I navigate around rocks. I also find that while I am using 90% of the rear travel on my descents, I'm only using about 65% or so on the front fork even though I set it to the 30% sag recommendations. Take a few pounds out of there as well?


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## Jericho Cane (Mar 24, 2018)

My Bad Habit also started to make creaking sound when pedalling. I quess it's the bottom bracket bearings where that noise comes from, because I can only hear that when pedalling hard. Is it good enough if I loctite those with Loctite 648 or should I buy new bearings (Enduro Max 6806 2RS LLU MAX 42x30x7mm)? Pivot bearings I was going to replace later, because I think those are ok this far. 
I bought that bike 6 months ago and it has warranty, but I ordered that from England and I live in different country, so I quess it will be little bit problematic to get those replaced with warranty in my lbs.


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

Jericho Cane said:


> My Bad Habit also started to make creaking sound when pedalling. I quess it's the bottom bracket bearings where that noise comes from, because I can only hear that when pedalling hard. Is it good enough if I loctite those with Loctite 648 or should I buy new bearings (Enduro Max 6806 2RS LLU MAX 42x30x7mm)? Pivot bearings I was going to replace later, because I think those are ok this far.
> I bought that bike 6 months ago and it has warranty, but I ordered that from England and I live in different country, so I quess it will be little bit problematic to get those replaced with warranty in my lbs.


On my bike the noise come from the pivot bearings i change or regrease them every 6 month. Till now no problem with the BB bearings


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

Even My Bad Habit started producing crunches during the pedaling, it was enough to remove the crank and lubricate the dust outer seal and reassemble.


Now it has begun to produce crunches even from the chassis locking screws, because they are always loose


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Bottom bracket or suspension bearings. One or the other starts creaking 

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## Jericho Cane (Mar 24, 2018)

Fatalpine said:


> On my bike the noise come from the pivot bearings i change or regrease them every 6 month. Till now no problem with the BB bearings


Thanks! Seems like my noise came also from (lower) pivot bearings. First day I put CRC also everywhere, expect for the pivot bearings and no effect, same noise continued. Couple of days later I sprayed CRC little bit to the lower pivot bearings and bike went 80% quieter. Now week later no creaking noise at all!

...and my much lighter and faster summer setup, 27.5x2.8 Rekon in back and 29x2.6 Rekon in front. Weighs about 13.5-13.6kg with pedals measured by using normal bathroom scale.


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## kbass24emtp (Jun 18, 2018)

I just ordered a Bad Habit 3 really looking forward to the switch from my Catalyst 1 to the Habit.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

BB Creak Fixed permanently I hope...

Bought a Praxis Works M30 thru Bottom Bracket. Had to also purchase 2 new spacers that I found on ebay. 7.5mm for the non drive side and 2.6 mm for the drive side. 

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## EddieZ (Oct 9, 2014)

Add me to the list. 2016 Bad Habit 2, Rear triangle crack. Just at the edge of one of the welds. Hopefully the warranty issue will be resolved quickly.

AllamuchyJoe is my frequent ride partner. It happened on his BH2 about a year ago, so we expected it on mine sooner or later. A few days ago, a quick inspection revealed the crack.


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## RepoMan2112 (Oct 10, 2006)

EddieZ said:


> Add me to the list. 2016 Bad Habit 2, Rear triangle crack. Just at the edge of one of the welds.


Same here on a 2017 1... LBS and Cannondale were quick to resolve, replaced with the 2018 black/silver 1 frame. Met another local riding the same black/silver frame with the neon components recently, same crack on his 2017. Note the hairline cracks in the BB shell too, could be cosmetic but LBS and I didn't like the looks of them.

Hope it's a quick turnaround for you too.


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

450 miles in on a 2017 BH1 AL. No frame issues. Did have the rear wheel replaced however. When moving the wheel side to side, there was a slight clunk. LBS tightened it down so it would not do it, but the wheel would not turn. Cannondale sent a new hub, but it did not fix it. They swapped a wheel with another BH at the shop and id did not do it, so Cannondale sent a new wheel. All is good now. Wonder if there is an issue with the Scrapers, or if it was a one off issue. I did upgrade to GX Eagle from the start, but doubt that has anything to do with it.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

I haven't been able to ride my Bad Habit Carbon 1 too much and when I have ridden it I haven't quite acclimated to the full suspension and skinnier tires compared to the fat bike I had before it.

My only real gripe with the fat bike was the heaviness of the pedaling when going up hill and it wasn't the fastest thing on the flats. Otherwise I enjoyed the ride on a base model Specialized Fatboy.

The gears are starting to turn and I am thinking of selling the bad Habit and getting a Fat Caad 1. Though I wished they did it in carbon frame.


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

The 2017 Fat Caad 1 stock but tubeless weighs only about 30lbs. Not bad for Al and 4.8". the 2018 adds a couple of lbs for the dropper. Considering one myself for winter to replace my Cujo2, but keeping the BH.


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

up grade


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

@ealex, I am considering the 3.8s for my bad habit 1 for winter instead of buying a fat bike. I have upgraded to GX Eagle 12 speed. Do you think the Hodags will still fit? I would need to stud the tires too, screws from the inside out with minimal screw tip sticking out. What are your thoughts? did the 3.8 provide enough float?


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## ealex (Feb 5, 2014)

nibblecuda said:


> @ealex, I am considering the 3.8s for my bad habit 1 for winter instead of buying a fat bike. I have upgraded to GX Eagle 12 speed. Do you think the Hodags will still fit? I would need to stud the tires too, screws from the inside out with minimal screw tip sticking out. What are your thoughts? did the 3.8 provide enough float?


Hodag fits fine in the rear triangle if used with low pressure. It is still good idea to trim outer part of side knobs, which is not needed on such narrow rim and rear tire anyway. But the chain will be extremely close even with 11s and will rub with 12s.

Hodags do not provide enough float for winter, especially on narrow rims, those are much smaller than real 4.8" tires on wide rims.


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## Chris307 (Aug 18, 2015)

How is everyone’s bad habit holding up? I’ve been on mine quite a bit this summer and still am loving it. Only thing is I am forever worried about the rear triangle cracking. I know it’s happened to a few people on here. Is this pretty much guaranteed to happen on my bike at some point? And is Cannondale going to keep making the bad habit? I just wonder if I should see if I can get a spare rear triangle to hold onto should the worst happen.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Chris307 said:


> How is everyone's bad habit holding up? I've been on mine quite a bit this summer and still am loving it. Only thing is I am forever worried about the rear triangle cracking. I know it's happened to a few people on here. Is this pretty much guaranteed to happen on my bike at some point? And is Cannondale going to keep making the bad habit? I just wonder if I should see if I can get a spare rear triangle to hold onto should the worst happen.


Two of my buddies have the exact same Bad Habit (1 Large, 1 medium) and they both experienced the exact same cracking near one of the welds on the rear triangle. One got it replaced and the other is going through the warranty process now.


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## Fili (Sep 17, 2017)

*The Bad habit gets fat*


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

Was wondering if those would fit. Put the 4.0 x 26 fbf and fbr on my 2018 fat caad. Great tire. Measured out at 3.8 on 80mm rims. My bad habit has 1x12 gx eagle. Assumed that would move the chain into the tire. How does it ride?


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## Fili (Sep 17, 2017)

My setup is 27.5 x 3.8 fbf and fbr on i45 rims almost 50mm wide with no clearance issue but the chain almost touch the tire so I think there is no way you can do it with the gx 1x12.Anyway even if they say that the minimum rim width for these tires must be 75mm I like this setup very much and the traction is incredible compare to the skinnier tires I had before!


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

crik crak crik crak

broken pivot bearing
1 broken bearing
2 little things that do not roll
1 completely blocked bearing
after having disassembled it, look at how the inner race of the bearing is reduced
never ever pressure pressure washer


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

Were you pressure washing or garden hose?


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

nibblecuda said:


> Were you pressure washing or garden hose?


far, delicate, and with brush

dynamic load bearing SKF 6802rs 1.65 - 1,9 kN ,TOO LITTLE WATER IS NOT RESPONSIBLE

in fact, if you see the internal track has the imprints of the spheres

1- poor steel
2- not suitable for jumping


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

Cuscinetti radiali a sfere

http://www.nskitalia.it/infoms/docs/43_102manualemanutenzioneesostituzione.pdf

http://www.ingman.it/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/bro_***_failure_diagnosis_pc_it_it.pdf
View attachment 1230829
View attachment 1230830
View attachment 1230831
View attachment 1230832


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

if you break the bearing and you do not notice immediately the cart works wrong and then breaks


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

Went for a ride today and noticed I was pedal striking quite a bit. Saw the rubber band around the shock shaft was all the way to the bottom.

Got home and checked shock pressure for the first time since I bought the bike and it was very low. About 100 psi front and rear. 

Pumped back up to 224 rr, 121 from and it feels like a different bike. Can't wait to get it back out but I also have to readjust the suspension clickers to see what works best.


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## Stemag (Oct 28, 2011)

I upgraded my Bad Habit with a pair of 29:er wheels. Looks quite ok i think.


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

I dig it. Looks good. Had been wondering what 29s would look like on it. I am on my 3rd rear hub in 800 miles under warranty. It keeps developing side to side movement. Anyone else having issues with the stock hubs? I was told it is a "known issue".


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

nibblecuda said:


> I dig it. Looks good. Had been wondering what 29s would look like on it. I am on my 3rd rear hub in 800 miles under warranty. It keeps developing side to side movement. Anyone else having issues with the stock hubs? I was told it is a "known issue".


Yes.

Replaced mine twice under warranty then got a new carbon rear wheel then a year later got rid of the bike.


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

What is the new bike? Was the carbon wheel worth it?


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

I built up a 29er wheelset for my BH1. Crest wheels, hope pro 4 rear hub. I like the duality of having the fat tires when it is damp and the skinnies when dry. Still really enjoying the bike. The only problem is that I have a creaky bottom bracket sometimes. For example, out of the gate on Tuesday, the crank was creaking. About 3 miles in, it went away. This has happened the last 3 rides. I'll have a creak for a portion of the ride. It definitely isn't suspension or seat post (noise only happens on power) and is more prominent at high torque situations. Bottom bracket shell looks fine. I wonder if the crank spindle to the inner race has more than ideal clearance and it occasionally "seats" which causes the creaking to disappear.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kbass24emtp (Jun 18, 2018)

Quentin said:


> I built up a 29er wheelset for my BH1. Crest wheels, hope pro 4 rear hub. I like the duality of having the fat tires when it is damp and the skinnies when dry. Still really enjoying the bike. The only problem is that I have a creaky bottom bracket sometimes. For example, out of the gate on Tuesday, the crank was creaking. About 3 miles in, it went away. This has happened the last 3 rides. I'll have a creak for a portion of the ride. It definitely isn't suspension or seat post (noise only happens on power) and is more prominent at high torque situations. Bottom bracket shell looks fine. I wonder if the crank spindle to the inner race has more than ideal clearance and it occasionally "seats" which causes the creaking to disappear.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You have the dreaded BB30 creak. Search Youtube and there are tons of videos about this. It is very common. There are also lots of fixes on there to. I found Wakos brake protector seems to be a permanent fix. It's expensive but does the trick. Here is the cheapest place I found it. https://alexscycle.com/products/wakos-brake-protector 




I can't find the video, but Cannondale Japan uses this fix the creak. I used it on mine and no creak.


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

kbass24emtp said:


> You have the dreaded BB30 creak. Search Youtube and there are tons of videos about this. It is very common. There are also lots of fixes on there to. I found Wakos brake protector seems to be a permanent fix. It's expensive but does the trick. Here is the cheapest place I found it. https://alexscycle.com/products/wakos-brake-protector
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Applied between the outer race and the BB shell or the inner race and the crank spindle?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kbass24emtp (Jun 18, 2018)

Quentin said:


> Applied between the outer race and the BB shell or the inner race and the crank spindle?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here is the Cannondale Japan video on how to fix it.






Just search Youtube for other videos how to take apart and put it back together. I just used the Japan one on where to put the grease. For the tool I used this press and removal tool from Burton Bikes in the UK. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Burton-Bik...emoval-/273574327232?var=&hash=item85687e4899

To get the cranks off YouTube has all kinds of hacks to get them off to not have to buy the Cannondale $50.00 parts. I used a Park Tool CWP-7 and a socket and a small extension to press the crank off. Just make sure to grease the threads on the Park Tool, or you could buy the grease and take it to a shop and have them do it.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

nibblecuda said:


> What is the new bike? Was the carbon wheel worth it?


Carbon wheel worth it. Much lighter and better hub that engaged much quicker.

Haven't purchased a new full Suspension bike yet. Riding my hardtail now and saving for a new one

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Best solution for the BB30 creak on this bike is the Praxis Works M30 thru Bottom Bracket. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Quentin (Mar 30, 2008)

kbass24emtp said:


> Here is the Cannondale Japan video on how to fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Perfect. Looks like they recommend grease liberally on the shell, inner race, and spindle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Quentin said:


> Perfect. Looks like they recommend grease liberally on the shell, inner race, and spindle.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What they show in that video will only be a temporary fix. The creaking noise will come back. If you want a permanent fix this is what you get.

https://praxiscycles.com/product/m30thru-bb30pf30-73mm-mtb/


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

Hi there, I just picked up a 2018 Bad Habit 1. I have a few questions for folks-in-the-know.
The bike comes standard with a 1x11 setup but I would like to go 2x11 (no, do not try to convince me 1x11 is enough ;-)).
Apparently I need an S3/E2 front derailleur, but I can't find a model with a cable stop nor cable stops on the carbon frame... What am I missing...?
And does anyone know if the Maxxis 3.8" tires fit front & rear? No, do not try to convince me 3" is enough ;-).
Much obliged!


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## kbass24emtp (Jun 18, 2018)

A 3.8 tire will not fit 3.0 is the widest you can fit.


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

If you scroll up in the thread, there is a BH1 with Maxxis 3.8 tires on it. However, not sure if they will fit when you go to a 2 x drivetrain. Mine is a 1 x 12 GX Eagle and the 3.8 will not fit due to where the chain now runs on the 12th gear.


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## Adamsmith (Oct 21, 2016)

*Cracked?*

Hello. My Bad Habit creaks when I drive up the mountain. It is quiet in the plain. Now I have discovered that, see picture.
Is it cracked?


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

I would get it checked. If you are the original owner and have registered the bike with Cannondale, it should be under warranty. 1k miles in on mine, no frame issues, just 3 or so rear hubs, and the Lefty fork wants to be reset every 5 to 10 hours of riding now. Will send that in for rebuild this winter. At least the reset is easy and quick to do. Oh, and a new chain at 1k miles. 

Let us know what you find out.


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## bwheelies (May 29, 2015)

I want the Bad Habit owners to know that the Maxxis Minion FBR 27.5x3.8 does not fit without rubbing the swing arm. Sure it fits with low tire pressure but that is running it flat. Go around a corner and the tire flexes into the swing arm.

Too bad because it looks great and traction is excellent.

Need to switch to something else out back. Probably front and rear to the Schwalbe.


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

I got a pair aof Maxxis 3.8 FBF/FBR tires to fit my BH1, by cutting off part of the outer knobs - which are pretty useless anyway because of narrow rim/rounded profile. 

But I'm kind of not too happy with the bike... I had bought it to make it easier on my back going over really rough terrain (flat or uphill, I'm no DH ace). I normally ride a fatbike hardtail with 26"/4" rims tires, a bike with a really high BB.
I found that in the rough stuff, with the Bad Habit I just hit my pedals so easily that I have to stop pedalling... and thus hike stuff I would otherwise just power over...

Apparently a lot of current bikes are designed with low BB's... I don't know what to make of that: name me one kind of vehicle that has improved off-road capabilities by lowering its chassis ?!? 
Maybe it's just me and old age, "modern" bikers take the lift up and only drop down on groomed-for-bikes trails...?

Putting the 3.8" tires on it have improved things somewhat, I hear that a lot of enduro bikers put 170mm cranks on their mounts, also to counter the pedalling over the rough stuff problems. But my knees won't be happy with that...

Has anyone figured out a way to put a derailleur/double chainring up front and not have the chain rub on such wide tires?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

caminoloco said:


> I got a pair aof Maxxis 3.8 FBF/FBR tires to fit my BH1, by cutting off part of the outer knobs - which are pretty useless anyway because of narrow rim/rounded profile.
> 
> But I'm kind of not too happy with the bike... I had bought it to make it easier on my back going over really rough terrain (flat or uphill, I'm no DH ace). I normally ride a fatbike hardtail with 26"/4" rims tires, a bike with a really high BB.
> I found that in the rough stuff, with the Bad Habit I just hit my pedals so easily that I have to stop pedalling... and thus hike stuff I would otherwise just power over...
> ...


The Bad Habit doesn't have a low bottom bracket. Actually higher than a lot out there. I would check rear shock pressure if you are having pedal strike issues.

And why would you want a double chainring up front? Put on a 28 or 30 tooth chainring and wider range cassette on the back.


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

prj71 said:


> The Bad Habit doesn't have a low bottom bracket. Actually higher than a lot out there. I would check rear shock pressure if you are having pedal strike issues.
> 
> And why would you want a double chainring up front? Put on a 28 or 30 tooth chainring and wider range cassette on the back.


Do you want me to post a picture of the bottom bracket of my brand new BH next to the one of my regular hardtail fatbike - the BH without any weight on it (meaning it'll go even lower when hitting a rock garden while pedalling )? Or of any other modern enduro bike compared to an older trail bike for that matter. It's apparently a general trend.

As for a double chainring... I'm a big guy, and probably like my age somewhat old-skool. Meaning that I don't drive my car or take a lift to the trailhead, but I bike it. Between 50 and 70k is a normal day's ride, about 20-30k on the least-trodden (=rougest) trails I can find. The rest to get there & back over jeep & gravel roads. With my age and weight, I can still haul ass on the gravel (+30kph), but I need a crawler gear on the steep, technical singletracks. A
And after 30 years of putting together & servicing my own bikes from a to z, decently setting up a front derailleur is really a no-brainer.

Which brings me to the point ! Where in the hell does one put a front derrie cable stop on a BH1 !?! A friend of mine had his bike shop put a front derrie and they drilled a hole in the rear triangle to put the cable stop... I can't imagine that's the way to go?


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## nibblecuda (Mar 8, 2017)

Should be the same frame as BH 2 which is a 2x front. 
https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=97a17c6c-8f45-49d5-b350-e64c798a5e35


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

nibblecuda said:


> Should be the same frame as BH 2 which is a 2x front.
> https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=97a17c6c-8f45-49d5-b350-e64c798a5e35


Can someone post a picture of the cable stop of the front derrie on a BH2?


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

caminoloco said:


> Can someone post a picture of the cable stop of the front derrie on a BH2?


I'll take the pictures I think I understand what you're looking for


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

ciao


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

scintilla said:


> ciao


Thanks a bunch for offering to make a few pictures of the location of the front derrie cable stop, just checking if they were supposed to be in this post (apart form "ciao" I don't see anything else...).


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

upload see above


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

scintilla said:


> ciao


Nope, my rear frame doesn't have the cable stop you show in the first picture (nor does the main triangle...). I have two friends who also have a BH1 (one in the UK and the other one in Belgium) and none of those bikes have that. The bike shop where one of my friends bought his drilled a hole in about that spot and put a cable stop in it. I bought mine through ebay and if I'd go that way, the warranty probably goes the other way !


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## scintilla (Dec 7, 2017)

caminoloco said:


> Nope, my rear frame doesn't have the cable stop you show in the first picture (nor does the main triangle...). I have two friends who also have a BH1 (one in the UK and the other one in Belgium) and none of those bikes have that. The bike shop where one of my friends bought his drilled a hole in about that spot and put a cable stop in it. I bought mine through ebay and if I'd go that way, the warranty probably goes the other way !


hello, sorry but practicing holes is wrong because it is already problematic without holes ... as you will see from other posts, if you do not have the seat on the frame (rear frame) you will have to buy an exclusive gearbox that has the cable stop


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## caminoloco (Jan 13, 2008)

scintilla said:


> hello, sorry but practicing holes is wrong because it is already problematic without holes ... as you will see from other posts, if you do not have the seat on the frame (rear frame) you will have to buy an exclusive gearbox that has the cable stop


I suppose you mean a front derailleur (gearbox?). Does anyone know of an E2 derrie with an incorporated cable stop - that's what I went looking for in the first place but I can't find such a version...


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## Fatalpine (Feb 23, 2012)

I would build some 29 wheel for a 2016 Bad Habit 1 with the Lefty. Do you think the lefty has enough clearance for 29X2.6 or just 29 X2.35? Or for maybe have you tried, i saw some picture but i'm not sure it works at full fork compression!


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## Doug_J (Oct 5, 2009)

*I'm in...*

So here I was, getting that urge again, and thinking 27.5 this time. I have my oh-so-clean 2006 Marin Mt Vision frame that I love, in a box. After some research it looks very 27.5 capable. Problem, since I don't have any extra parts I gotta buy everything and that adds up quick!

I find my self on Craigslist where I see a not even broken in 2016 Bad Habit 1. Self I says; "You can buy that for less than the parts to build the Mt Vision! Hold on self, do you even want a plus sized bike? You you don't even like your wimmens plus sized."

So, off to MTBR to read up on this thing! I read through this whole thread, and I like what I've learned. I did see some some things to watch out for, but I went and bought the bike. The gentleman I got it from was about 75, he bought this Medium and an identical SM frame bike for his wife. I figure they rode 'em around the block a bit, I don't think it's ever been dirty.

After the basic inspection and set-up stuff, I've been riding it around my property a bit and so far I REALLY like it. Seems like it may be the bike I never knew I wanted. I went ahead and swapped the KS LEV dropper off my Supercell. I figured I'd have to find a post shim to go from 30.9 to the Cannondale 31.6, but I wanted to check it out. Well, there was a can of Coors (not that Coors light crap either) on the toolbox, so I emptied that and the post is on... I've got a real shim in my Amazon shopping list but it works fine. I might be spoiled, but I think a drop post is a must on this bike. We'll see what a real ride brings, but up and down the hillsides on my property and over various obstacles has been great. I'm super happy with it.


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## AF_Dave (Aug 6, 2020)

*Cracked Swing Arm - Cdale BadHabit 2017*



beefa69 said:


> I have an earl 2017 Alu frame, no problems at all. It gets ridden reasonably hard on trails that are better suited to 160mm Enduro bikes (just not as fast )


Reading this forum after finding the exact same crack on my swing arm this afternoon after cleaning my bike. Has anyone had an issue getting their swing arm replaced? (original owner, I have receipt - just found it today)


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