# Might stick with my walmart



## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Well I've been debating whether or not to return my bike to walmart for a refund and get a more expensive ride from the lbs or BD online, but the more I think about it, the more I'm starting to lean towards keeping my walmart bike. Here's why. 

I'm new, so through trial and error, I'll probably be pretty abusive towards my bike. If I wreck or break somethign on my $150 walmart brand, no biggie. But if I buy a new $400 bike, go out and tear it up, I'd be pretty upset with myself. My first automobile wasn't a Ferrari and it's a good thing too because I wrecked it. Burned up motor, hit deer, neglected total care, and more. 

I have to buy lots of other equipment along with my bike. I need a good helmet, gloves, backpack, water bottles, extra tubes, tools, chain links, small tent, headlight, tail light, little pump, lock, lube and other stuff. Maybe a soft cushy gel seat. That's more money I'll have to spend just to get started. Next time I buy a bike I'll be able to spend more money because I'll already have all that stuff. 

I'll probably only have the bike for a year. Next year, I can always get a better one after I've had some experience. And If I need parts, I can always use the parts off of this one haha. Broken chain? no problem. I'll take the chain off my walmart bike. Tube? tire? no problem. I'll have extra parts.


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

The parts on the Walmart bike are not even worth that much and chances are most of them would not be compatible with what ever you use on your new bike plus you never put a down grade on your bike.

I bought a base model 2007 Rockhopper in well 2007. I think I paid a something around 600ish. Nice thing about it that bike is worth upgrade as parts wear our and break. Plus it is worth putting money into keep maintained.

No one will say it was a waste for me to put an M770 XT crank on there to replace my bent middle ring. Just this week I put a Deore rear derailleur as the one that came with the bike was pretty much complete worn out. I know over time I will be replacing parts to upgrade but I will never down grade to a lesser part (aka steeling them off a Walmart bike).

As for equipment you need to buy to get into riding lets keep it simple. A Helmet (30-40 bucks), gloves (20 bucks) a lock (20), pump (20). 
You do not need a spare chain links as it is a lot rare than you think you snap a chain and just luck of the draw. Tubes are an ongoing thing but those are like 5 bucks a piece. I personally will ride with 1-2 spare tubes and if I get a flat I change them out and then when I get home I patch up the old tubes and they become new spares. Works really well. Lube is 5 bucks last you a while.

You do not need to buy a head light and tail like and head light that is worth anything for seeing are pricy.
You sure as hell do not need a cushy gel seat. Just extra weight that is well worthless and the 400 buck bike will just be a lot better in terms of the saddle.

Lastly if you find you like it you would have to buy a new bike any ways and way waste the money on a POS bike to begin with.


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## mtnbikecrazy55 (Jul 26, 2007)

I agree with the above. Spend 300.00 on a used bike. hell, even craigslist has decent deals. used is always the way to go.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Agree with the top 2 posts. If your gonna mtb for a while get a better bike. If it's gonna sit in the garage, the walmart will do just fine. 
If money is a n issue go the used route. A decent bike just does what it's suposed to better. Like when your mashing the pedals to get up a hill and want to change gears the gears change instead of the chain falling off. ect. Anyone who's been cycling for a while would agree and we can't all be wrong, but as they say, you can lead a horse to water but.....Your money?


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

I would say you will be lucky if the WM bike even lasts a year if you ride alot the parts will break for sure. I had a 900 euro bike and went through 2 cassettes and two hubs and two chains in a year and I was not abusing it just riding alot. I ended up getting 2 new wheels under warranty. I would at least get the windsor cliff from BD it will be worlds better.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

If the bike is working out for you, then roll with it. Why not? Right? 

Ride it for a season. As you say, you can always do something different next year.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

If you have a little bit of extra money right now, then I would take your wal bike back immediately. If you don't have the money right now then take your bike to a shop to get it running as well as it can (and as safe as it can be) and start saving your pennies. 

Your wal bike is unlikely to make it through a year of riding unscathed and it is honestly not worth putting nicer parts on it. Remember that the reason those Motobecanes are so cheap with decent parts is that they can buy bike parts in MASSIVE quantities which saves Motob a lot of money. You can't buy a shifter for even half the price that a large manufacturer probably can. For that reason I recommend saving for an "all at once" complete bike buy. I of course advocate your LBS but I can understand that seeing the value there is a hard sell. 

I think you're trying to compare apples to oranges and Wal bikes are almost always more comparable to a toy than a quality bicycle. I understand that Walmart is trying to sneak in some decent bikes these days, but those won't be the $150 ones. Your $150 bike was made for pavement riding no matter what it resembles. Your analogy of first car as a Ferrari is probably closer to if you said your first hardcore 4x4 rock crawler was a clapped out Honda Civic. 

I don't mean to beat you up too badly, but there are reasons everyone is trying to steer you away from your Walmart bike. It comes down to value; your current bike isn't going to last. We're trying to persuade you to skip the wasting money step and proceed directly to a reasonable quality bike that will give you some value from your money.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

zebrahum said:


> If you have a little bit of extra money right now, then I would take your wal bike back immediately. If you don't have the money right now then take your bike to a shop to get it running as well as it can (and as safe as it can be) and start saving your pennies.
> 
> Your wal bike is unlikely to make it through a year of riding unscathed and it is honestly not worth putting nicer parts on it. Remember that the reason those Motobecanes are so cheap with decent parts is that they can buy bike parts in MASSIVE quantities which saves Motob a lot of money. You can't buy a shifter for even half the price that a large manufacturer probably can. For that reason I recommend saving for an "all at once" complete bike buy. I of course advocate your LBS but I can understand that seeing the value there is a hard sell.
> 
> ...


Well said :thumbsup: bro we are only telling you so you don't have to go through the head aches we did with crap parts.


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

Good Idea to keep the WM bike, you won't listen to experienced people, some people have to learn the hard way, that way you'll learn some repair, and why experienced people tried to help you, when you're experienced you can TRY to help someone that won't listen..LOL spend what money you have on tools, a repair book like Zinn & the art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, you'll need the rest of your money for parts. 
Good Luck


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

****'s gonna blow up the first time you hit any real dirt. I see those frames broken in half on the side of the trail.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

I am sorry I was sitting at home and decided to look at the WM bikes and I almost fell over laughing as I tried to think of a grown man riding this bike on the trails. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Genesis-26-Men-s-V2100-Dual-Suspension-Bicycle/14089739

I can see it now hit the rock gardens and oh shoot wish I would have sprung for the real bike lol good luck with the wm bike just be careful.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

or even better yet look at this one lol this is a mtb forum not a toy store forum

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Huffy-26-Black-Widow-Bicycle-Black/14122727


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

awww snap I found a carbon aluminum bike at wally world

http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Liberty-Carbon-Aluminum-Mountain-Bike/10749731


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Wall Mart has a free ride bike now look at this

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mongoose-Detention-26-Men-s-Mountain-Bike/15711159


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## fattybikejones (Aug 17, 2008)

Wow...hahaha I laughed out loud at the carbon aluminum frame!


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## RDTigger (Sep 9, 2010)

fattybikejones said:


> Wow...hahaha I laughed out loud at the carbon aluminum frame!


Not as light as my carbon lead frame. I patented that one.... Gonna be a fools gold mine!

To OP, return the Wal-Goose.... now. That's an order you will thank all of us for when you have the extra $ for a quality built bike that a bike shop will be able to maximize for you. If you decide to keep the walmart bike it's ok too, I wish I had returned the kmart bike someone gave me and gotten the $ to buy a real bike. One that isn't a pain in the butt to pedal. Lasted a year...and less than 50 miles..


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## fattybikejones (Aug 17, 2008)

RDTigger said:


> Not as light as my carbon lead frame. I patented that one.... Gonna be a fools gold mine!
> 
> To OP, return the Wal-Goose.... now. That's an order you will thank all of us for when you have the extra $ for a quality built bike that a bike shop will be able to maximize for you. If you decide to keep the walmart bike it's ok too, I wish I had returned the kmart bike someone gave me and gotten the $ to buy a real bike. One that isn't a pain in the butt to pedal. Lasted a year...and less than 50 miles..


Really. If you are doing anymore than toodling down the neighborhood sidewalks with the youngsters... the Walgoose will not be adequate. Just because a bike is maketed as a "mountain bike" doesn't mean it actually is. If you keep it, be careful and realize it's limitations.:thumbsup:


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## nickmas (Aug 2, 2010)

If you're going to buy a new bike in a year, why not look into financing a decent one now instead? My friend got a Gary Fisher on one-year zero-interest financing. 

If you keep the WM bike you're in for $150 which isn't bad if it lasts a year. But you're talking about the bike as if it's a whole, either going to make it or not. Even if the frame survives there are still numerous other much more fragile parts that need to survive as well. And if they don't fail completely I'd bet they're at least going to cause headaches. You really need to think about what riding you're going to do. Planning a camping trip and a nice long trail ride with the guys, or just going to cruise down the sidewalk a couple times this summer? If camping, you want to make sure your bike can handle it because you'll end up anchoring the group down or sitting alone at the camp site. Even if your drivetrain develops a non-fatal issue where it repeatedly drops chains it will suck the enjoyment out of the trip. You'll get annoyed at the bike and constantly having to stop your buddies. Add the relatively crappy experience with the cost of parts and labor for repairs and you might regret not spending more.

Don't get me wrong, people with nice bikes can still have issues and especially after crashing but with that bike you are asking for trouble. I imagine that rear shock will make your butt slightly more comfortable but it'll be so sloppy that actually riding the bike will be more difficult. If that is all you can afford right now then fine, go with it. But the more you do now will save you down the road.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Alright all right you all seem pretty persisent on the walmart thing so I'll tell ya what. I'll stop in at the LBS and take a look around. There's only one in the area and from just driving by, it looks pretty small but I'll go in and see what they've got. Maybe there's a good deal in there on a $300 bike. I'm laid off/unemployed so I have to be careful what I spend, but I'll go in and look around at the least. I'll also call walmart and ask them if I can get a complete refund. 

So here's the problem. What if they don't give me a refund? I've already ridden it a few times and well, I'm not sure it they'll go for that. exchange or store credit maybe, but I don't really want store credit. I dont' want a $150 walmart gift card because i'd never use it. I don't do alot of shopping at walmart so the store credit would be useless for me. 

But I'll definitely go into the LBS Saturday and take a look around.


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

I think taking the bike back and telling them I'm here to get my money back will work much better then a call asking, can I please have my money back, others in the same situation have gotten their money back, I don't see why you can't.
While your at the LBS ask for older models, demos, used, test ride and pick out a bike that fits, come back and show us pictures of your new bike.
Good Luck


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## Prophet bill (Feb 28, 2008)

Well if you cant afford a bike guess the wally world crap would work but if you can get a better bike please get a better bike not something that has a sticker on it that says do not ride off road or whatever it says.


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Ride whatever you want. It's your money, your ride.:thumbsup:


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## krinksta (Jan 1, 2011)

To be honest with you, the first time I ever went real MTB'ing I had a Walmart Next bike. It didn't even last one lap before the tire was bent, just because cheap rims cant handle the higher loads. I would for sure go with a LBS bike or a used one.


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## istandalone (Feb 6, 2011)

if your serious about returing the bike to wallyworld, break something on it first. they may not be so keen on your returning it "just because you don't want it". especially if it's been more then 90 days and no recipt.


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## fattybikejones (Aug 17, 2008)

Craigslist is your friend! I scored this rig for $225!!

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7921679&postcount=1


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## roxnroots (Aug 12, 2010)

gemini9, here's a question for you: 1.) what are you going to ride; 2.) how often; and 3.)how aggressively? Furthermore, 4.) how much do you weigh?

If the answers run something like this: 1.) rocks, roots, logs, drops; 2.) often; 3.) agressively; and 4.) 180-200 lbs. or more then you're eventually going to taco the wallyworld wheels, crack the frame, brakes will be so marginal you crap a brick on the first long, steep descent, the cheap (plasti)pedals will start disentegrating with the first strike on a rock, etc. and so on. It might be uncomfortable and it'll likely be surprisingly heavy for how fragile it'll prove to be in real riding situations.

Even an entry-level "real" mtb used on CL or new from BD/decent LBS would only handle those conditions to a certain point but at least it would give you enough time to enjoy learning whether you want to continue with the sport and upgrade as 

Yeah mtbs and gear can be expensive when you're just starting out but a broken-down wallyride can cost more than you might've first thought.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Prophet bill said:


> Well if you cant afford a bike guess the wally world crap would work but if you can get a better bike please get a better bike not something that has a sticker on it that says do not ride off road or whatever it says.


I didn't see a sticker that said that lol the only sticker i saw was "Don't ride without a helmet".


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

roxnroots said:


> gemini9, here's a question for you: 1.) what are you going to ride; 2.) how often; and 3.)how aggressively? Furthermore, 4.) how much do you weigh?


Here we go!

1. I'm mostly going to be riding here:
http://bikewashington.org/canal/plan-tires.php

And plan on taking a 2 or 3 day trip by the end of summer, once I get my exercise in. I will also be riding on some fire trails just up the road from my home. No extreme hill climbing or any thing, but there are some pretty rocky areas. Mostly gravel tho. Some parts of the trail have larger chucks of rock, but nothing extreme.

Oh, and I have to pedal a ways up the road to get there so some solid pavement for about a few miles.

2. Short rides by my house 1-2 hours daily as weather permits. Longer rides on weekends on that canal I linked above. probably 4-5 hour trips. Most of the trail is pretty clean and level.

3. Weekends when I'm with my girl, gotta take it easy and slow cuz she tires quick. when by myself, a litlte more aggressive, but nothing speed demon. I don't wanna kill myself lol

4. I weigh about 135 or so. 5 10. skinny. lol


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## rlouder (Jun 26, 2007)

You likely won't find much (if anything) in a bike store with your budget. If you so, it won't be much better than the goose. You might run across a recent model used bike in your local craigslist. 

Since this is an enthusiast site, most people assume you are riding more difficult, rougher trails. While the goose won't be as nice to ride as some better bikes, it should hold up for the the type of riding shown in your link. Ride and enjoy.


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

ive got a used reken frame:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19505-175_SETRK9-278-Frames--/Sette-Reken-Hardtail-Alloy-Frame.htm

black 16" with a used race face headset (where the bearings for the steerer are), loaded down with parts from this:

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=lanai

all parts are brand new stock from the lanai, except bar/stem(bar/stem are new, unridden, but not off the kona), frame, and headset. frame and headset have a light season of light use, and are solid. (im more into the wrenching than the riding.)

id let it go for 225, but youd have to meet me in WV. flatwoods looks to be about half way for both of us.even at 4 bucks a gallon, still cheaper than shipping.

just sayin...

i hate to see people ride crap. the reason im sellin is i went to 29er. id give it to ya, but i want a spare wheelset. if i ever went back to 26, id get another reken. ill be going to companybicycle in charleston today (saturday) and heading up another hour wouldnt be too bad, or we could coordinate for late next week, when i have to be in charleston to pick up my parts, and again, an xtra hour wouldnt kill me.

or you can brush me off as i might be a crazy.

but for god sakes man. take the wally special back and get a good bike, even if its not my poor, sad, unused 26er.


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

oh, and ill throw in a pair of brand new fox full finger gloves sz L (but too small for me), a "skate lid" helmet, a couple water bottles, some chainlinks, a tail light, and i will bring a few seats ill never use. hell, u can have more than one seat. i got a squishy one and a boat anchor with the springs in back and evrthn. lemme know if ur interested.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

ilmfat said:


> ive got a used reken frame:
> 
> http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19505-175_SETRK9-278-Frames--/Sette-Reken-Hardtail-Alloy-Frame.htm
> 
> ...


That looks good better than the WM bike


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## fattybikejones (Aug 17, 2008)

Even though the lionshare of the riding you will be doing will be on seemingly flat and groomed trails I can't stress enough the fact that the wallyride just doesn't posses the 
durability that a bike shop quality bike will for you. I know you are on a budget and that is weighing on your decision. If you are gonna stay with the wallyride, you can pretty much expect a break down..even on these tamer looking gravel green way trails.
The ride quality of a shop quality bike vs the walgoose will be night and day.
Even this http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/motobecane_300HT_sale.htm
is worlds better than the dept. store bike.
Whatever you choose..have fun!


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I have been working at bicycle shops for the last two years and volunteering at a local bicycle co-op. i lost count of the number of Walgoose bikes I have seen come in the bike shop that have been ridden for a few weeks and are now so messed up that they can't be repaired for less than the cost of a new one at Wal*Mart. When these bikes come into the co-op, I strip the few useful parts that are on the bike and put the rest of it in the scrap pile to be recycled. these bikes are usually entirely useless after the rider used them them to plod along on the sidewalk to work, not even some real trails. those 9 pound steel full-suspension frames are of great value to the guy that comes around with a truck and takes it all to the scrap yard.

I have also sold nice bikes for under $150 on craigslist that are LOADS better than that department store junk. is there a bicycle co-op near where you live? maybe they can help you build something up cheap. I met a guy who was in a bind financially and helped him build up a used Trek 3700 with a nice XMO fork and he has learned to build and adjust it himself over the course of a few weeks and donated $50 or so to keep the co-op going.


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## RDTigger (Sep 9, 2010)

Another option would be to just get a SSpeed from BDirect....

They can be had for your price range and will be an awesome starter. If you are just craving a bike to ride they fit for now and plenty of people ride them on the trails too....


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## fattybikejones (Aug 17, 2008)

mack_turtle said:


> I have been working at bicycle shops for the last two years and volunteering at a local bicycle co-op. i lost count of the number of Walgoose bikes I have seen come in the bike shop that have been ridden for a few weeks and are now so messed up that they can't be repaired for less than the cost of a new one at Wal*Mart. When these bikes come into the co-op, I strip the few useful parts that are on the bike and put the rest of it in the scrap pile to be recycled. these bikes are usually entirely useless after the rider used them them to plod along on the sidewalk to work, not even some real trails. those 9 pound steel full-suspension frames are of great value to the guy that comes around with a truck and takes it all to the scrap yard.
> 
> I have also sold nice bikes for under $150 on craigslist that are LOADS better than that department store junk. is there a bicycle co-op near where you live? maybe they can help you build something up cheap. I met a guy who was in a bind financially and helped him build up a used Trek 3700 with a nice XMO fork and he has learned to build and adjust it himself over the course of a few weeks and donated $50 or so to keep the co-op going.


Good post!


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## RDTigger (Sep 9, 2010)

fattybikejones said:


> Good post!


+1

Here area few BDirect that are steals for the price. All are ~$300 and there is no tax... and free shipping.

Base Camp- LINK

Motobecane HT500- LINK

Motobecane HT400- LINK

Dawes Haymaker- LINK

Windsor Cliff 4500- LINK


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## Dugge (Sep 6, 2010)

Quit typing, start riding.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Flatwoods, wv. Thats around 2 hours from here and not too bad. I could make the drive easy enough as I like a good trip out of town anyway. 225 is within my around $300 budget. And it's cool to get some gloves and things. What kinda shifters is on it? Tourney shifters? disc or pad brakes? If it looks like the other in the picture it probably has pads, so how can I switch out the pads and put on discs? (it's kinda wet up here out the fire trail and the pads on my last bike always got wet and muddy)

I had already looked at the bikes on BD, actually.  I've been eyeing up the Haymaker and the Cliff 4500. Really want the Cliff 4500 cuz I like the color black. but it's not in stock  HT500 would be cool if it wasn't bright yellow lol

The bike I got from walmart is a Genesis, not a mongoose. I had actually bought a mongoose from walmart before and it lasted a little over a year before the rear deraileur broke off. The genesis I got this year looks alot more solid than the mongoose was. The rear deraileur is bolted down pretty solid, whereas the mongoose was just a piece of plastic. The genesis has four bar linkage suspend in the rear so that's better than the goose too. only complains I have ab the gen so far is the fork suspen sucks and it's a little heavy. Plastic pedals

So help me out here guys. What size bike do I need? Bike direct has 13 to 21 inch bikes? That throws me off because the one I bought is a 26 inch? so.. I'm guessing the 13-21 is the size of the frame. Well which size should I get? I'm about 5 '10 or 5 '11 so should I get a 19 inch? right?

Big post I know. Sorry. 
JPETERS>>> would your 16' be too small?


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Dugge said:


> Quit typing, start riding.


It's cold. It's foggy. Raining. It's only 34 degrees here lol


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

actually, im the one with the bike.

im 5'11", and i love the 16" reken. some say i could go 18", but meh. 5'10" is on the cusp of small and medium.

tourney shifters. v-brakes, but frame fork and wheels are all disc-ready. you can even use the same levers if you get mechanical discs.

dept store bikes dont really come in sizes. the 26" label is wheel size. stick with 17 or 18. 19 inch'd prolly feel a lil big.


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

If thats what you can get to go riding, more power to you!

Definitely there are options, I'm currently addicted to buying vintage mtbs on CL  there is a bunch out there availabe, such as mid 90s GTs priced at 150. However, you gotta pour about 50 bucks into them, new cables and chains, and have the right tools to fixed em up. Buyers paralysis never got anybody on the trails, so I think youre on the right track. Youre out riding, and thats what counts. Be careful and enjoy. 

Make sure you buy a piggy bank for your next bike.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Just measured myself. Yeah, I'm ab 5 10 to 5 '11. depending on my shoes. ha. Clearance from the ground to my crouch is about 34 inches or so. So then... this all means that a 16 or 17 inch bike would be sufficient? 
From what I see here on BD:
15 inch fits most 5'1" to 5'4" (standover clearance = 27.5")
17 inch fits up to 5'8" (standover clearance = 29")
19 inch fits up to 6'0" (standover clearance = 30.5")
21 inch fits up to 6'2 (standover clearance = 32")
23 inch fits up to 6'5" (standover clearance = 33.5")

So I'm confused. I have 34 inches from the ground to my crouch... so does that mean I can get a 23 inch? But I'm only 5'10 or 5'11... So am I better off with a 19 inch? wow you know this is pretty confusing.

Ilmfat>>> so if I wanted to get front discs, bout what would that cost me?

I'm about to head out for the weekend cuz I got a gig to do tonight. I'm gonna check into the LBS and see what theyve got to offer.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

You want some room between you and the top tube (stand over hieght) if you'd like to keep the jewels safe. Figure your legs will be a bit spread while standing over tha bike lowering your 34 inches also. Stand over is a good start but every bikes geo, and every persons body measurements are different so for a good fit other measurements must be considered. How they all come together and work with your sizes and preferences will determine if it fits well.


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## Timeless (Mar 23, 2007)

gemini9 said:


> Just measured myself. Yeah, I'm ab 5 10 to 5 '11. depending on my shoes. ha. Clearance from the ground to my crouch is about 34 inches or so. So then... this all means that a 16 or 17 inch bike would be sufficient?
> From what I see here on BD:
> 15 inch fits most 5'1" to 5'4" (standover clearance = 27.5")
> 17 inch fits up to 5'8" (standover clearance = 29")
> ...


Your bike shop will be able to help you on that.
They will have you look at a few different sizes see what feels good to you.

I am 6' 4" and my inseam is 34in so I have a stand over of I think around 35 in (never measured just added an extra in to account for shoes and what not) but I believe I ride a XL frame 07 Rockhopper.
I know the bike shop tried me 2 different frame sizes to see what I felt better on and I like the larger frame. It is a mix of stand over and then top tube length.
I liked how the Rockhopper felt over the trek 4500. Rockhopper has a slightly longer top tube than the 4500 and a more aggressive sitting position but I have a long torso so that was a good thing for me.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> So I'm confused. I have 34 inches from the ground to my crouch... so does that mean I can get a 23 inch?


No. You are likely better off with a 19-inch frame at your height. I prefer to use standover as a feasibility check, not as a goal. For example:

1) I know from experience that I prefer an effective top-tube of around 23.5".

2) I want a Jamis Dakar SixFifty B1 bike.I look at the geometry and see that the 19" model has a top tube of 23.7". Thats' pretty close to my ideal. So far, so good.

3) I look at standover and see 33". I'd bust my crotch wide open on that, so the 19" model is a no-go.

4) The 17" model has a top tube of 22.8". That's almost 3/4" shorter than I prefer. I'm probably at this point going to look at other brands. Gary Fisher tends towards longer top tubes. Giant offers 18" frames that might work out.

In your case, given your height of 5' 10", I would begin by looking at a 19" frame size. Be aware that Bikes Direct models generally run short top tubes relative to their frame size. I just looked at one of their 19" models, and the top tube was still less than 23". I personally would not buy a Bikes Direct bike because their general approach to geometry doesn't jive with what I know from experience that I like.


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

discs run 40 (bb5's), to like 350. i recommend the bb7's. you can find em for about 50. (all values are for each brake). 

standover is not equal to size. my 18" vassago has a 29" standover.

as much as id like to sell my bike, it sounds like you should find a good bike shop.


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## roxnroots (Aug 12, 2010)

gemini9,

Based on the type of trail you're planning to ride, and at fairly social pace overall, and the fact that you're only 135 lbs. -you probably COULD get away with a wallyride in the short term.

However, that doesn't mean that you should go that route. I can almost guarantee you that you'll get hooked on the sport faster than you originally thought and your skillset/riding aggressiveness will increase at a faster rate than you first expected as a result. You might very quickly discover that you have coin tied up in a ride that won't work for you anymore and STILL be stuck with spending $ acquiring a "real" mtb.

Better to cruise CL for something decent used if you're up to it (and know guys who can give you advice on what's decent and what's crap for the price, or look at BD for new (and have friends who can give you decent advice), or ideally a decent LBS moving stuff out on clearance who can size you right on something tuned up right and that they warranty and service if you're not wrenching it yourself.

My last bit of advice would be to find the most solid bike that you can for the money - buying a package of halfway-decent components on an existing bike's normally cheaper and less hassle for the relatively-inexperienced mtbr.

Good luck! :thumbsup:


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## itc41 (Jun 19, 2008)

Hi, check out http://www.more-mtb.org/forum/, their are bikes for sell in the DC area.
I also think WM bike is only good for C&O or W&OD type trails, don't even think of
doing any other kind of trail


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

So I drove over to the LBS yesterday and they were closed. I guess they are only open from 9-5 because I got there around a quarter after. In looking through the Bikes direct website, in their warranty and shipping policies they had stated wheels may need to be trued? I'm not sure what "trueing" is or how you do it. So, what is trueing? How is it done? And what is the likelihood that when I order a bike from BD that I'll have to get it done?


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

i got 3 deadeyes from bikes direct last year. all of the wheels needed truing.

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#tensioning

scroll down a little over half the page to tensioning and truing.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

i have built a few dozen bikes directly from the factory/distro at a bike shop. factory-built wheels always need truing, right out of the box! this is one of the disadvantages of buying a bike online, you need a bicycle mechanic to put it together, even the parts that you don't expect to have problems.


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## lmd10 (Mar 3, 2011)

...........


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Call them you dont need to do much when you get the bike anyone can do it. Check this page this guy just got a 300 dollar BD bike

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7936150#post7936150


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## Agwan (Feb 16, 2011)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-Sidewinder-26-Men-s-All-Terrain-Bike/15711172

Having built Wal-mart bikes for several years I can tell you this bike, properly set up makes a survivable COMMUTER.

and that none of their bikes are trailworthy. its suicide.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

Some would say they are not even good "path" bikes. 
Aldi is a budget supermarket not unlike Wally World
Aldi Bike: Assembly or minimising self destruction

This Aldi bike is like the BSO's from Wally world I suspect.
Skim thru and read the posts by the OP.


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## roxnroots (Aug 12, 2010)

lmd10 said:


> I would ride the wally world bike and enjoy,there is a 90day money back refund, but there not telling you ,you also have a 1year warranty and there is a EXTENDED warranty up to 3 years on worn out replacement parts which tires are included which I was suprised....yes the bike is upgradable as you see fit as they break,or get the parts FREE under warranty if want the same parts, but you would want to get aftermarket parts for the weight/lighter products.. I would break down the bike and Grease/lube all the bearings make sure eveything is tighten properly and tuned if not you do it youself or spend 35-70 and let your LBS do it for you .......have fun riding


What you say is certainly true for the OP, the wallyride would work in this case and thus that type of bike has its place.

However, it should be made clear to new riders just entering our sport, wallyrides are not a good idea for any "real" singletrack and if a beginner just skimmed through this thread quickly and saw lots of approval for wallyrides they might get the miguided idea that they can save some money and still pin it on their inaugural DH attempt. 

The 90-day return and warranties won't mean much of anything after the noob tragically attempts to write a check that the wallyride can't cash.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

So the truing of the wheels worries me. There are a few from BD I'm looking at and I'm gonig to try the lbs again to see if they are open. So this wheel truing.. is it absolutely necessary? what's it cost anyway?


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

gemini9 said:


> Well I've been debating whether or not to return my bike to walmart for a refund and get a more expensive ride from the lbs or BD online, but the more I think about it, the more I'm starting to lean towards keeping my walmart bike. Here's why.
> 
> I'm new, so through trial and error, I'll probably be pretty abusive towards my bike. If I wreck or break somethign on my $150 walmart brand, no biggie. But if I buy a new $400 bike, go out and tear it up, I'd be pretty upset with myself. My first automobile wasn't a Ferrari and it's a good thing too because I wrecked it. Burned up motor, hit deer, neglected total care, and more.
> 
> ...


Absolutly ride the hell out of that machine....when it wears out get the better bike....I wore a cheapy ride out in three months.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

gemini9 said:


> So the truing of the wheels worries me. There are a few from BD I'm looking at and I'm gonig to try the lbs again to see if they are open. So this wheel truing.. is it absolutely necessary? what's it cost anyway?


Truing wheels is necessary, it's also part of routine maintenance of your bike. If you have rim brakes (V-brakes, cantilever brakes) instead of disc brakes having true wheels becomes even more important. You can ride with your wheels slightly out of true with little to no issue if you are running disc brakes.

As for cost, I would estimate $15/wheel. And as a new wheel get broken in after a few rides, it will need to be trued again. Just one more reason to buy from a good LBS that has a free tune up period on the bike. Might cost less up front to buy from BD, but you'll quickly make up for it in maintenance costs.


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## manabiker (Jul 18, 2010)

No worries, get this book at Amazon or Borders, there is chapers and apendix's on wheel truing, fitting, emergency repair, gearing, pedals/clips, all repairs and adjustments, lots of good info for a mere $15.00.. good luck

http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597/ref=dp_ob_title_bk


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

find a shop, dude. u get far better support from a lbs sale than from getting a cheap internet bike, then taking it to the shop and paying the difference in assembly and tune up.

make sure its a good shop tho.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

If you have the slightest bit of mechanical aptitude, you can do the majority of work on your own bike, including truing the rims. By learning to do this yourself, you will not only save money, but will often do better work than a shop that has to hurry and turn over bikes to make a profit, and you will be prepared to deal with breakdowns on the trail if they happen.

For easy to follow instructions on most repairs, start here:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

While long term you will want to get some tools to work on your bike, you can get by with a multitool for most of your adjustements and maintenance for right now:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/18...ools/Crank-Brothers-Multi-17-Tool---New--.htm

Here is a good, inexpensive tool kit that will let you do pretty much any repair or maintenance you want to do at home:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030354_-1_1586000_20000_400005

Don't forget to get some chain lube to keep your chain clean and lubed, I suggest rocknroll lube as it does both and is easy to use.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

ilmfat said:


> find a shop, dude. u get far better support from a lbs sale than from getting a cheap internet bike, then taking it to the shop and paying the difference in assembly and tune up.
> 
> make sure its a good shop tho.


Are you serious ?? The bikes on the internet are just as good as the ones at the shop and for those of us who want good parts for less money we use the internet. I am sorry any man can work on a bicycle especially with all the how 2 vids on the internet. Sure if you think you cant work on the bike get it from the shop. To be honest I am friends at my shop and they tell me on most stuff order online because we cant compare to the prices.


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## ilmfat (Mar 10, 2007)

jpeters: that was not a blanket statement for all situations. just my advice for gemini.

i was not talking about the quality of the bikes or parts. by cheap i meant price.

i dont really get involved with the geo-political net v. lbs convo. just seems he could use the guidance and support of a shop. 

if i wasnt so lazy, id practice wheels to the point that i wouldnt need a shop. but since i take my wheels there anyways, might as well buy from them.

if you do your own work, nothin wrong with saving money. all i was trying to say is IF your bike/parts are gonna end up at the shop anyways, the savings are mitigated by service fees, so you might as well buy from the shop.


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## lmd10 (Mar 3, 2011)

..........


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## Mellow Yellow (Sep 5, 2003)

Most of what I'm going to say has already been said:

* Return the WalMart bike and get your money back. 
* If you're taking up MTB'ing with any amount of seriousness, the WM bike will NOT make it a full season
* Us the $$$ from the return of the WM bike as a downpayment on a new bike. If you can't aford to get a good new bike from an LBS, look into zero % financing.
* In the long run, it will cost you more to have bought the WM bike, then to buy a new one a year later; than if you were to just buy a good new one now from an LBS.

Good luck


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Well there's only one mountain bike shop in my area that I'm aware of and they are closed until further notice so it's not looking good for them. I'm still taking the bike back to walmart though, but before I do i want to get my new ride. unless i can find some other lbs, i'll be getting my bike on BS and hope i can get my bike set up myself. So i guess i'll order something from BD and when it arrives i'll take back my walmarter.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

ilmfat said:


> jpeters: that was not a blanket statement for all situations. just my advice for gemini.
> 
> i was not talking about the quality of the bikes or parts. by cheap i meant price.
> 
> ...


OH ok :thumbsup: I like the local shop I have one I use I ride with the guys at the shop and it stinks that they can't give the same online prices. I was talking to the guy at my shop and he told me he cant even get Shimano parts for for as cheap as some of the online prices. For some reason the online shops get better deals from shimano than the shops it pisses me off. I would much rather go to my shop and get my parts but the brice difference is just to great for example I got a shimano slx crank for 100 euro online the shop had to charge 180. When ever I can I get stuff from the shop for example oil tubes bleed kits brake pads chains helmets grips ext ext.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Ha Ha Good !! we talked you out of the wally world bike thank God. You will have no problem setting up the bike it is very simple and if you need help I got skype video lol. I would save and get the best possible bike you can afford and the BD route is the best bike on a budget choice.


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## roxnroots (Aug 12, 2010)

Yes, the feeling of NOT having your rig disintegrating under you . . . . priceless.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

jpeters said:


> I like the local shop I have one I use I ride with the guys at the shop and it stinks that they can't give the same online prices. I was talking to the guy at my shop and he told me he cant even get Shimano parts for for as cheap as some of the online prices.


that's pretty common. it's called "buying in bulk." the online shop buys hundreds of XT cranksets, while the local shop buys three. because of the quantity, the online shop can buy them from the manufacturer cheaper and sell them with much less overhead and with thinner profit margins. the stuff you see at the LBS probably has about a 100% markup so they can make enough money to stay in business. the online shop has a much lower markup but they make up for it in sales volume. the same goes for prices at a small corner convenience store vs supermarket prices.


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## lmd10 (Mar 3, 2011)

..............


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Hey gemini9, I think you would be ok going the BikesDirect route. I just ordered a Windsor Cliff 4500 from them (see the thread in the Motobecane section of the forum), and it seems all right to me so far - and it only set me back $300 with shipping. The wheels seemed pretty true overall, however, there was a lot of adjusting to do on the deraillurs and brakes, which I'm paying a bike shop $30 to do. Anyway, for your budget, its probably the best bang for your buck. Here is the link:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/windsor_cliff4500_x_sale.htm

Another option for you might be a few of the lower end Forge bikes, but they only make 17.5" frames for these models, so they could be too small for you, depending on your height. These bikes start out at $235, but you have to pay extra for tax and shipping, so you would end up at around $300, but these are comparable to $400 bike store bikes. Here are the links:

http://forgebikes.com/edgemontsport.asp ($260)

http://forgebikes.com/saranacmount.asp ($235).

If you have a Giant bike store near you, you can also get a Boulder for as low as $330 plus tax. So...these are a few more options.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Oh, I forgot to mention, you can get a 2010 Motobecane 300HT for $240 with shipping on eBay, but once again, plan on doing the adjustments yourself or paying a bike shop for it. If you are not mechanically inclined or don't have the option of going to the bike store to pay extra for the work, then this, like other mail order bikes, might not be such a great option. Anyway, here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2010-ALUMIN...6274539?pt=Mountain_Bikes&hash=item230fa432eb


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

so what happened here? no conclusion?


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

The bike cough on fire and burnt down the shed


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Wow I can't believe this thread is even still here lol 

Anyway, to answer your question, John, I ended up getting a Windsor Cliff 4900 off of BD (spent more money than I planned initially) and I sold the Walmart Genesis V2100 to my girlfriends dad for what I paid for it. He still hasn't even ridden the thing. Been sitting in the basement for over a month. My Cliff 4900 is going strong and hasn't let me down yet. I haven't taken it on any serious downhill or anything like that, but it's been to my satisfaction. I was given a saddlebag, pump, spare tube, multi-tool, headlight and other stuff so I'm all set. Bought a hydropack and sunglasses. So far, I'm loving it. 
To those who need a bike on a budget, I always recommend bikes direct because I haven't had any trouble with my purchase now that I've got it all tuned up right. When something does break, and I'm sure it will eventually, I'll upgrade the part.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

gemini9 said:


> Wow I can't believe this thread is even still here lol
> 
> Anyway, to answer your question, John, I ended up getting a Windsor Cliff 4900 off of BD (spent more money than I planned initially) and I sold the Walmart Genesis V2100 to my girlfriends dad for what I paid for it. He still hasn't even ridden the thing. Been sitting in the basement for over a month. My Cliff 4900 is going strong and hasn't let me down yet. I haven't taken it on any serious downhill or anything like that, but it's been to my satisfaction. I was given a saddlebag, pump, spare tube, multi-tool, headlight and other stuff so I'm all set. Bought a hydropack and sunglasses. So far, I'm loving it.
> To those who need a bike on a budget, I always recommend bikes direct because I haven't had any trouble with my purchase now that I've got it all tuned up right. When something does break, and I'm sure it will eventually, I'll upgrade the part.


Good to hear you are happy with the bike I love BD


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## stburr91 (Apr 12, 2011)

I really like my bike from BikesDirect (HT600). I only have about 180 miles on it, but so far, so good.


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

gemini9 said:


> Wow I can't believe this thread is even still here lol
> 
> Anyway, to answer your question, John, I ended up getting a Windsor Cliff 4900 off of BD (spent more money than I planned initially) and I sold the Walmart Genesis V2100 to my girlfriends dad for what I paid for it. He still hasn't even ridden the thing. Been sitting in the basement for over a month. My Cliff 4900 is going strong and hasn't let me down yet. I haven't taken it on any serious downhill or anything like that, but it's been to my satisfaction. I was given a saddlebag, pump, spare tube, multi-tool, headlight and other stuff so I'm all set. Bought a hydropack and sunglasses. So far, I'm loving it.
> To those who need a bike on a budget, I always recommend bikes direct because I haven't had any trouble with my purchase now that I've got it all tuned up right. When something does break, and I'm sure it will eventually, I'll upgrade the part.


thanks nice to know!


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## ricky916 (Jun 7, 2011)

I bought a 2011 Mongoose Xr200, turned out to be a pretty damn good bike, the only reason why I returned it was because it sometimes was a pain to shift and would not shift. Got $215 back, went on Craigslist and bought an 07 GT Avalanche 3.0 and would never turn back, It's a ton lighter (gt is 16 inches) and shifts like butter. I do have to admit, the Mongoose was well put together (as far as design of frame and strength (I took it off some jumps and Im 210lbs so it's not like I weigh 150 or anything) and not once did it give me any problems besides the shifting was a lil off, and it was heavier as well.
I got my gt for $140, still had all original stickers, plastic film on the GT emblem, still rides and looks new.


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## Nocturnus (Mar 28, 2005)

I had a sub $200 WM bike when I started riding few years back. I rode it a few times, took it back to WM. Took my money to a LBS and put it down on a Hardrock Comp. Took me 2 months to pay that off, but it was well worth it.


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

The v2100 I had from walmart was at least half decent. Shocks were junk, but it shifted really well and the brakes were pretty good. Yank off the stickers and it would be a satisfactory commuter bike and some light trail riding. But the cliff 4900 I got on BD greatly surpasses it. I can't say I miss that v2100 at all.


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## TheDapperGent (Jun 5, 2011)

gemini9 said:


> The v2100 I had from walmart was at least half decent. Shocks were junk, but it shifted really well and the brakes were pretty good. Yank off the stickers and it would be a satisfactory commuter bike and some light trail riding. But the cliff 4900 I got on BD greatly surpasses it. I can't say I miss that v2100 at all.


Good for you man. A nice bike fuels the fire that much more!


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## IWreckALot (Jun 8, 2011)

ricky916 said:


> I bought a 2011 Mongoose Xr200, turned out to be a pretty damn good bike, the only reason why I returned it was because it sometimes was a pain to shift and would not shift. Got $215 back, went on Craigslist and bought an 07 GT Avalanche 3.0 and would never turn back, It's a ton lighter (gt is 16 inches) and shifts like butter. I do have to admit, the Mongoose was well put together (as far as design of frame and strength (I took it off some jumps and Im 210lbs so it's not like I weigh 150 or anything) and not once did it give me any problems besides the shifting was a lil off, and it was heavier as well.
> I got my gt for $140, still had all original stickers, plastic film on the GT emblem, still rides and looks new.


A friend gave me a Wal Mart bicycle about 3 years ago. I rode it a few times over the last two years but I just bought a new house with a more rider friendly area and started riding every day. I just bought a GT Avalanche 3.0 for $250 and WOW what a difference. The gears shift when I want them to, they don't shift when I don't want them to, the rear wheel is true, the front shock actually has some movement and it's about 5lbs lighter at least. Night and day difference.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Thanks to BD for putting good parts on the bikes people can afford now all they need to do is change the paint. I like BD I think its a great place to get a HT probably the best in my opinion. The FS however its like trying to polish a tird I wish BD would get some nice new fs frames.


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

I have this walmart bike and it is a nice (very) "cheap" commuter bike  it feels sturdy. With derailleur and brake adjustments, its ready to go! 

I have obviously not taken it to any trails yet. But i have been biking it on the beach and some roads for exercise, some can be described as "light trails". Used it for errands and some basic commute. I have put a little less than 100 miles on it since having it for a little over a month. I have just done only 10 mile stretches (yes on knobby tires! ) because maybe my fitness level cannot do more yet.

I have learned to do some basic maintenance on it without worrying about messing up an expensive bike 

I can say that I am ready for another bike.

Did I feel I wasted money buying it? 
Nope, I will still it use for errands, if I get a better bike. And when i started biking I am not sure if I will like biking. I was not afraid of tinkering with the bike too just to learn and experiment. So when my "more expensive" bike comes, I will not rely too much on my LBS for minor adjustments which I can handle, even if they don't charge me for those.

This is Just how I see it


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

johnj2803 said:


> I have this walmart bike and it is a nice (very) "cheap" commuter bike  it feels sturdy. With derailleur and brake adjustments, its ready to go!
> 
> I have obviously not taken it to any trails yet. But i have been biking it on the beach and some roads for exercise, some can be described as "light trails". Used it for errands and some basic commute. I have put a little less than 100 miles on it since having it for a little over a month. I have just done only 10 mile stretches (yes on knobby tires! ) because maybe my fitness level cannot do more yet.
> 
> ...


What are you looking at next?


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

jpeters said:


> What are you looking at next?


I am looking at a used Gary fisher Mako for $270 on my local CL, not sure if that is a good deal since they stopped making the mako, i think. and it was $359.99 MSRP or a used specialized hard rock

I am looking at the trek hybrids too the 7 series and the fx series.

My budget now is just under $300


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## RDTigger (Sep 9, 2010)

Hate when people try reselling bikes like that.

Ride it if you like it make an offer you are willing to pay for it. Leave if they decline, most sellers will happily take lower offers if you have the cash.


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

RDTigger said:


> Hate when people try reselling bikes like that.


may i ask why? is it the too low price? so its a good deal then?


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## gemini9 (Mar 23, 2011)

Glad to hear you're getting something better than that Roadmaster. Especially if it has those grip shifters... I never really liked those... If you get a new bike, you will definitely notice a difference in the ride.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

johnj2803 said:


> may i ask why? is it the too low price? so its a good deal then?


Well I am a firm believer in getting the best bike you can afford 350 will get you a entry level mtb I hate to say it not much of one.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Nevermind...


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## johnj2803 (Apr 30, 2011)

so i went to look at the bike on sale. frame is too big for me... so I am stuck with my wally world ride for now


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## ricky916 (Jun 7, 2011)

IWreckALot said:


> A friend gave me a Wal Mart bicycle about 3 years ago. I rode it a few times over the last two years but I just bought a new house with a more rider friendly area and started riding every day. I just bought a GT Avalanche 3.0 for $250 and WOW what a difference. The gears shift when I want them to, they don't shift when I don't want them to, the rear wheel is true, the front shock actually has some movement and it's about 5lbs lighter at least. Night and day difference.


Yeah my GT is a size small (im 6 feet lol) so it's super light but I still love how it rides.
Ordered a new crankset and getting new wheelset and full discs in a couple weeks.
But the new XR200 from wally world isn't that bad if you adjust it, I just didn't feel like adjusting it especially when I found the GT for $60 cheaper then what I paid.


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## AllisonWunderland (Jun 7, 2011)

Spend a year figuring out what MTB is about. 

There are a lot of riders in here who won't settle for anything less than the Bling O Matic . . . at $2K. I've been riding seriously since 1962, and don't need anything more than the entry level gear. But that's me. I know what I need, and not in a fashion contest with a group of gear-heads. 

Buy another bike when you have your other riding gear -- and when you know what you're looking at.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

AllisonWunderland said:


> Spend a year figuring out what MTB is about.
> 
> There are a lot of riders in here who won't settle for anything less than the Bling O Matic . . . at $2K. I've been riding seriously since 1962, and don't need anything more than the entry level gear. But that's me. I know what I need, and not in a fashion contest with a group of gear-heads.
> 
> Buy another bike when you have your other riding gear -- and when you know what you're looking at.


some stuff is over kill but some stuff is necessary. 
1 lighter parts go faster 
2 lighter parts use better metal last longer
3 good fork keeps the wheels down and controlled 
4 good parts are more reliable 
It really depends on what you think entry level stuff I know from experience cheap wheels hubs cassette fail for hard xc.


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## muddeprived (Aug 8, 2012)

gemini9 said:


> The v2100 I had from walmart was at least half decent. Shocks were junk, but it shifted really well and the brakes were pretty good. Yank off the stickers and it would be a satisfactory commuter bike and some light trail riding. But the cliff 4900 I got on BD greatly surpasses it. I can't say I miss that v2100 at all.


I got the v2100 cheap off CL. The dude only sold it cuz his car tire went flat and needed the funds to get a new tire. He put the spare tire up front and boom, it blew too. He was a cool dude though (4 year marine vet) and told me he used the bike all the time and it never gave him problems.

So that's what I'm using right now. Yeah the shocks suck, or aren't shocks at all. The rear is just a spring and nothing else. The front has very limited travel. But overall, the bike is fun to ride, shifts beautifully, brakes instantly (i can literally lift the rear tire off the ground using just the front cheap disc brake system). It's my beginner bike and I will mess around with it, fix things, take things apart, upgrade cheap parts with better but still cheap parts, etc.


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## EABiker (Jun 24, 2004)

I did a quick CL search for your area and found this:

24 Speed Gary Fisher Wahoo 15.5 in. (Genesis)Gold Series Aluminum - $150 (Hagerstown)

Same price as your Wally bike, but will outlast it by years. Lots of good buys on CL; just need to look daily because the good deals are snatched up quick!


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## GtownViking (Jul 27, 2012)

Mountain biking is no different than any other sport and by that I mean this, you always want to buy and use equipment that is better than your current ability/skill and grow into it. If you are evenly matched or your ability/skill is better than your equipment, well, you'll never really get any better. The only thing that will grow is frustration, then you get disenfrachised with the sport/activity and usually stop. Which no one on this forum would like to see you do.

The disposability of the Walmart bike is appealing and logical....to some extent but if you really want to get better at Mountain biking and enjoy this hobby, then make the initial investment in a bike that is better than you and grow into it.

Just my humble opinion.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

you guys notice this is over a year old?


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## Luclin999 (Jul 9, 2012)

Thread was necro bumped yesterday by what looks like a new forum member trying to push up his post count.


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