# Rear Tire Slippage When Climbing



## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

I noticed yesterday during my ride when I would start pushing uphill (not hard pan, but not sand) that my rear tire would slip a little bit and sort of kill any momentum I had going up the hill.

Could I be leaning too far forward while pedaling, or is that tire not suitable for that kind of terrain?


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## Dorf (Apr 2, 2011)

You pretty much hit on the two most common reasons. Ride the same piece of trail, and run it several times, trying different body positions/placements. For me personally, a subtle weight shift makes a huge difference in tire spin vs. none. Good luck!


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

What Dorf says. I'd try shifting your weight first. His advice is good on that point. Very subtle shifts in weight as you go make a big difference in getting up a hill. 

Tire tread and width of tire can also make a difference.

Suspension can even help. Rear suspension tends to keep your rear tire better planted on the ground.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

What tire and what pressures are you running? When I first started I used to run waaaay to much; like 60psi. I'm down to about 35psi these days (any less and I pinch flat on rocks). 

Lowering pressure and sitting on the nose of the saddle (vs standing up) should help.


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## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

Not sure on the PSI or Tire, it's a kenda 2.1 or 2.2" i believe. Different tire than what I thought came with it. More of the tread is on the outer edge of the tire.

I do feel like I might be leaning into the front of the bike a bit too much, I'll try shifting weight later this morning when I head out.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

post up a name or picture when you can. I'd lower to around 40psi to start with. 

Its hard to resist the urge to really lean forward but I've found best to bend at the elbows and sit on the nose of the seat. 

I'm new to this whole climbing thing this year but not to mountain bikes....I've always been about DJ, Park and going down not up


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

You'll want to get in the habit of checking tire pressure before each ride.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> You'll want to get in the habit of checking tire pressure before each ride.


+1

Not only do tires loose air constantly, it also allows you to get a feel for what it means to be at 40 psi or to drop down to 35 psi. Before each ride, pump up the tires. I suggest getting a decent floor pump, I keep mine in the car most of the summer in case I need it.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

ross sez said:


> I noticed yesterday during my ride when I would start pushing uphill (not hard pan, but not sand) that my rear tire would slip a little bit and sort of kill any momentum I had going up the hill.
> 
> Could I be leaning too far forward while pedaling, or is that tire not suitable for that kind of terrain?


The front point of the saddle should feel like it is about to insert itself where the sun don't shine....

That will generally provide the optimum weight distrubution between the front and rear tires...

Also i you can pedal smoothly while in that position, it will help alot.

Don't be afraid to track stand or go very slowly...

Practice staying on the bike even if the rear does slip, often the next stroke you can recover from the slip.


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## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

jeffscott said:


> The front point of the saddle should feel like it is about to insert itself where the sun don't shine....
> 
> That will generally provide the optimum weight distrubution between the front and rear tires...
> 
> ...


Thanks. Luckily with the slipping I didn't have to hop off the bike, it just forced me to slow down a ton.

I just checked the PSI and my front is at 44 and rear was at 34. I should probably lower the front a tad and put a little more in the rear to even them out at about 40, right?

The tires are Kendra Cobra 2.0.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

ross sez said:


> Thanks. Luckily with the slipping I didn't have to hop off the bike, it just forced me to slow down a ton.
> 
> I just checked the PSI and my front is at 44 and rear was at 34. I should probably lower the front a tad and put a little more in the rear to even them out at about 40, right?
> 
> The tires are Kendra Cobra 2.0.


I personally think 35 psi is a reasonable target. If you get regular pinch flats then you should be increasing the pressure until you don't anymore.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

jeffscott said:


> The front point of the saddle should feel like it is about to insert itself where the sun don't shine....
> 
> That will generally provide the optimum weight distrubution between the front and rear tires...
> 
> ...


^^This^^ The trick is to get your upper body down over the bars AND keep some weight on the saddle. This will move your center of gravity forward, keeping the front end planted and controlled, while keeping some weight on the rear wheel to maintain traction. Then spin the pedals.

This is how I climb steep stuff. YMMV. If you find yourself doing this a lot, you may want to search for a taint friendly saddle - droopy nose and/or wide and padded.


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## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks for the responses!


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

Report back with how it goes


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

ross sez said:


> Thanks. Luckily with the slipping I didn't have to hop off the bike, it just forced me to slow down a ton.
> 
> I just checked the PSI and my front is at 44 and rear was at 34. I should probably lower the front a tad and put a little more in the rear to even them out at about 40, right?
> 
> The tires are Kendra Cobra 2.0.


Sounds high to me....

Got out and ride a typical trail, start at 40 psi...

Drop the pressure by little bits...until the rear tire starts to feel squirmy in corners....

That will be your minimum pressure...

Front can be say 10 to 15 % less than this number...

If you ride reasonable "light" on your bike you shouldn't get pinch flats at these pressures...

Anyway fiddle with it for the climb I would guess something closer to 30 psi than 40.


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## Fyrblade (Aug 6, 2011)

Not to be Captain Obvious or anything, but one quick fix is a tougher gear. Spinning the rear is much harder in a better gear


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## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

I just got back from a ride, tried tinkering with my body position and staying back a little more on the saddle helped out a bit.

I did try bumping up to a tougher gear on one hill and that forced me to lean forward more, thus having the tire spin lol


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## carspidey (Aug 1, 2011)

Dorf said:


> You pretty much hit on the two most common reasons. Ride the same piece of trail, and run it several times, trying different body positions/placements. For me personally, a subtle weight shift makes a huge difference in tire spin vs. none. Good luck!


exactly what i was thinking... ride it a few times with different positions and see... how steep is the climb?


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## cabbgage (Jul 20, 2008)

You want to get your weight low more than back or forward, bend your elbows more. Also smooth pedalling is important so not to break traction.


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## joe_bloe (Nov 18, 2010)

*Kenda Kobra*

I looked up the Kobra on Kenda's website, and someone else may have to confirm this for me, but they list it as a wheelchair tire?  You may want to look into an upgrade, it looks like the Kobra really doesn't have much grip for climbing.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

This is what I found:

Semi-slick. I would say unless your climbs are hard packed dirt this tire isn't going to climb super well.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

rear PSI I would say around 35 should give you decent grip without pinches. Just make sure to read your PSI before a ride and eventually you'll come up with your ideal #. Or go tubeless and run even less air.

If that's your tire then I would say time for something new. Take a look at this tire for example and notice the center knobs, they really help with climbing.

Specialized Bicycle Components : THE CAPTAIN SPORT


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## ross sez (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks. Definitely going to consider new tires for the trails... especially since I was getting some slipping while in my highest gear and not leaning far forward like I initially was.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

What type of terrain do you usually ride?


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## xycarp (Apr 9, 2011)

Spinning is likely more technique than equipment, unless you have obvious equipment problems. Shift weight more forward and keep even pressure to the drive system. Find a gear than allows you to power up keeping your normal pedal cadence Short bursts of power are much more likely to break you loose.


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## Sean831 (May 22, 2011)

when youre climbing try not to shift all of your weight to the front wheel. Keep your weight on your pedals and lean forward. This seems to work for me


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## paleh0rse (Jun 20, 2011)

s0ckeyeus said:


> You'll want to get in the habit of checking tire pressure before each ride.


+10

One of the best investments I've made was just $23 for a nice little digital pressure gauge. Measuring with one of these gives you consistent readings, which is the most important factor -- and it's certainly better than any analog gauge built into the pumps themselves.

I'm down to 27psi front, 29 rear, with my tire/rim combo (175 lb riding weight, with tubes, 29er, Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.2 rear, Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front, Mavic 719tn rims). You guys running 40+ psi on dirt, using a decent tire/rim combo, are really doing yourselves a huge disservice...

Here's the pressure gauge I carry and use before every ride:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OMQK6Q/


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## Will Goes Boing (Jan 25, 2008)

It's very tempting to stand up or scoot too far forward to try to muscle it up the hill, but you have to keep a lot of your weight on the saddle to prevent wheel slippage. Try putting your butt on the tip of the saddle, lean forward, loosen your grips/bend your elbows, look forward and see if it helps any.


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## lightgod44 (Sep 25, 2011)

I made the mistake of not checking my tire pressure before my first ride today, and when i started to go up the hill into the mountains it was apparent that i was being dragged. But me being stubborn i kept going. But great tip on the psi, thank you!


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## Mattlikestobike (Nov 1, 2010)

you may need to: 
1. air down alittle.
2. Buy a new rear tire
3. Adjust your weight more towards the rear


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## xxxxx (Aug 29, 2011)

I will try putting my tuchas on the seat a little when climbing up steep grades. Less air will probably help too. Thanks for all the advice.

Josh


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## aedubber (Apr 17, 2011)

Def drop air pressure down a bit , and get a tire that matches your type of riding . If you have a tire that is made for smooth hardpack like a race tire and your trying to climb up roots and rocks , it just aint gonna happen .


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## pattongb (Jun 5, 2011)

Ilikebmx999 said:


> What tire and what pressures are you running? When I first started I used to run waaaay to much; like 60psi. I'm down to about 35psi these days (any less and I pinch flat on rocks).
> 
> Lowering pressure and sitting on the nose of the saddle (vs standing up) should help.


+1

Wow quote for the win!

I used to slip a ton on hills. I was a noob running 60psi. I run 30 now. I also sit on the nose of the saddle when climbing instead of standing, this helps a ton.

I did upgrade my rear tire to a Kenda Slant Six. For $40 you cant go wrong....:thumbsup:


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## JasperIN (May 16, 2009)

I Agree with everyone who said air pressure and weight adjustment! I ride with the Kenda Small Block Eight on the rear and love it


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## Irishcarbombs (Aug 15, 2011)

dundundata said:


> rear PSI I would say around 35 should give you decent grip without pinches. Just make sure to read your PSI before a ride and eventually you'll come up with your ideal #. Or go tubeless and run even less air.
> 
> If that's your tire then I would say time for something new. Take a look at this tire for example and notice the center knobs, they really help with climbing.
> 
> Specialized Bicycle Components : THE CAPTAIN SPORT


My riding buddy uses the tires you linked. He likes the grip, but has had a couple sidewall slice/puncture issues. We ride in AZ so lots of rocky/desert terrain. Personally I ride the Kenda Nevegals and love them. I run ~35 PSI but am guilty of not checking before every ride.


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## selwyndvr (Sep 7, 2011)

Thanks for the good info in this thread. I've have some trouble with climbing too and got some good ideas here. I also find it easier to climb when I use the lockout on the front fork, but mostly there is no time to lockout prior to climbing so keeping my body weight further back helped tremendously.


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## Supermoto Fan (Sep 29, 2011)

cabbgage said:


> ...Also smooth pedaling is important so not to break traction.


Yup--That's what I have always been told. A friend suggested that I really concentrate on pedaling in a circular motion as opposed to just straight down through the front of the stroke.


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## Guernica (Jun 7, 2009)

you can also reverse the direction of your rear tire if it's a directional to give you sharper ledges as opposed to ramps...i run my rear reversed almost 100% of the time


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

Guernica said:


> you can also reverse the direction of your rear tire if it's a directional to give you sharper ledges as opposed to ramps...i run my rear reversed almost 100% of the time


Technique is the biggest factor for the novice rider. Even the best tire can slip when you are still learning the skills.

When I started mtbing there were trails I could not climb with a big full knobby. Two years later I had no problem riding the same hills on my road bike with 23 mm slick tires.

I do not like reversing ramped treads because the braking suffers. It is much easier to finesse drive grip than braking traction.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

ross sez said:


> Thanks. Definitely going to consider new tires for the trails... especially since I was getting some slipping while in my highest gear and not leaning far forward like I initially was.


Please note that the highest gear is the hardest to pedal on a climb and the one lets you go the fastest. Big ring on the front, small cog on the rear.

The lowest gear is the climbing/easy/slow ratio. Small front, big rear.


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## Guernica (Jun 7, 2009)

That's interesting shiggy...I do agree that tech is the most important factor in any type of riding but I have never personally noticed a difference in braking due to tread direction


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