# My dream DH build... becomes reality !



## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

*My dream DH build... becomes reality ! ( pictures now added! )*

Hi Guys,

Im currently in the process of building my dream DH bike, I currently have all of the parts expect the forks. I paid for the forks well over a month ago and kept getting messed about by the bike shop only to now find out they havnt even ordered them from their suppliers and cant give me any delivery date. Its crazy as this is the only part holding up my build! I will now have to pay a bit extra for them from a different company to make sure I get them within the next week or so

Here is the list of components which I am using, I will post pictures as soon as the bike is built.

*Frame:* Cove Shocker - Black - Medium
*Shock:* Roxkshox Boxxer World Cup 2011 - White
*Rear shock:* Cane Creek Double Barrel (paid for and on order from CC, will be using the standard Fox DHX 5.0 which came with the frame until it arrives)
*Handlebars:* Chromag Fubars OSX Paint Series - White/Black
*Grips: *ODI Lock-On - black
*Headset:* Cane Creek 110 - black
*Stem:* Hope Direct mount - black
*Wheels:* Mavic Deemax Ultimate wheelset
*Front Brake:* Hope Tech V2 with floating rotor 203mm
*Rear Brake:* Hope Tech V2 with floating rotor 203mm
*Front Tyre:* Maxxis Minion 2.6 42a UST
*Rear Tyre: *Maxxis Minion 2.6 42a UST
*Brake Pads:* Brake Authority Ceramic Pads, front + rear
*Crankset:* Shimano Saint M815 40T
*Chaing guard: *MRP G2
*Cassette: *Shimano M770 11-34T
*Derailleur: *Sram X0 9sp
*Shifter:* Sram X0 9sp
*Chain:* Sram 991 Hollowpin
*Seatpost:* Race Face Diabolus DH 
*Seat:* Selle Italia Yutaak gel
*Pedals:* DMR V12 Magnesium (will upgrade to Nuke Proof Proton Mag-Ti, whenever they become available)

I am so excited to be building this beast, have been doing so much overtime the last few months to fund it, now its finally coming together and I can sit back and enjoy  Ive already got a 2 week Alpine mountain biking holiday booked with trailAddiction for the summer of 2011 in the French Alps 

Any suggestions/advice is welcome !

cheers !


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## V.P. (Aug 26, 2007)

pics, its all useless without pics! : )


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

V.P. said:


> pics, its all useless without pics! : )


I will take some pics of the individual parts when i get home from work (yes, I am working Christmas day!!) :madman:


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Pictures are mandatory... 10 lashes otherwise. Looks like your dropping major loot on this build, its a crime not to show pictures. Order the fork from pricepoint and you will get it in a day or two if your stateside.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

monstertiki said:


> Pictures are mandatory... 10 lashes otherwise. Looks like your dropping major loot on this build, its a crime not to show pictures. Order the fork from pricepoint and you will get it in a day or two if your stateside.


yes its costing me alot but ive worked my arse off over the past months to be able to afford it 

Im from England, UK, so cant order from USA websites as Ill get stung with extortionate import duties/taxes.

pics will follow shortly, i finish work soon :thumbsup:


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Congrats, sounds like a true no-holds-barred build that! Also nice to hear about people putting their backs into making dreams come true. Enjoy that beast, you will have earned it.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Are the o-ring Chris King headsets gone from stock so if you order one you know it's the split ring variety?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> Are the o-ring Chris King headsets gone from stock so if you order one you know it's the split ring variety?


I dont know what you mean...


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I'm curious if o-ring CKs are still floating around so you have to check which kind you'll get. Do you know if you got an old o-ring CK headset or a new "post patent" split ring headset? While there have always been CK lovers, almost everyone will concede that with a DH fork there's a high likelihood of the o-ring headset getting loose.

If you still don't know what I mean here's the breakdown: Dia-comp (which became Cane Creek) invented the threadless headset and patented the split ring, which makes it work. CK didn't want to license the patent and used an o-ring instead of a split ring. Rubber is not as compression resistant as aluminum so unless you lucked out with a perfect tolerance between steerer and headset or you had a short travel fork, CK threadless headsets would become loose and even sometimes damage steerer tubes. This past fall Cane Creek's patent ran out and CK adopted the split ring design. It was only a few months ago so it's likely that you could still get the old design.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

bike shop hasn't ordered it....efff them, get your money back and order online...it will be cheaper too:thumbsup:


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> bike shop hasn't ordered it....efff them, get your money back and order online...it will be cheaper too:thumbsup:


Well, if he wants a 2011, they aren't in stock yet. Major suppliers still have 2010 WC's though.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Gemini2k05 said:


> Well, if he wants a 2011, they aren't in stock yet. Major suppliers still have 2010 WC's though.


CRC has them in stock, but are closed over xmas so I will wait for them to open and start the price negotiation process haha


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## mattyboi (Oct 25, 2010)

sounds like a sweet build i wanna see some pics!!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> I'm curious if o-ring CKs are still floating around so you have to check which kind you'll get. Do you know if you got an old o-ring CK headset or a new "post patent" split ring headset? While there have always been CK lovers, almost everyone will concede that with a DH fork there's a high likelihood of the o-ring headset getting loose.
> 
> If you still don't know what I mean here's the breakdown: Dia-comp (which became Cane Creek) invented the threadless headset and patented the split ring, which makes it work. CK didn't want to license the patent and used an o-ring instead of a split ring. Rubber is not as compression resistant as aluminum so unless you lucked out with a perfect tolerance between steerer and headset or you had a short travel fork, CK threadless headsets would become loose and even sometimes damage steerer tubes. This past fall Cane Creek's patent ran out and CK adopted the split ring design. It was only a few months ago so it's likely that you could still get the old design.


hmm thats interesting, Im looking at my headset now, there appears to be no o-ring, but there is a plastic circular piece which sits at the top, underneath the top cap. you can see it in this picture: http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/components-hardware-c8/headsets-c81/chris-king-headset-p1612

is that the o-ring which you're talking about?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

mattyboi said:


> sounds like a sweet build i wanna see some pics!!


gonnna take some pics of the parts now, bare with me :thumbsup:


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## Lunchbox362 (Jun 27, 2009)

hexstatic said:


> gonnna take some pics of the parts now, bare with me :thumbsup:


Bout time :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

*Pics*

*Pictures of the parts ..... *


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

such a beautiful frame, the welds are simply stunning, can admire them for ages !!


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Delicious....
Gonna be a sick rig when she's all built up, make sure you get that completed pic!


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## mattyboi (Oct 25, 2010)

holy moly man thats gonna be a beautiful bike congrats on that!


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## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Be careful with those bars man...........


Sick build though, shes gonna rip!


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## weescott (May 7, 2006)

I would be wary of the Nukeproof pedals. They look like rebranded HT Industries pedals at a much higher price. The build quality can be hit and miss. Otherwise, sweet build.


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## olijay (Feb 19, 2009)

That is one awesome build, enjoy it!


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## Brother Lu (Jan 26, 2009)

Wow  you just made me ruin my special christmas underwear; thing of beuty.


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

Gemini2k05 said:


> Well, if he wants a 2011, they aren't in stock yet. Major suppliers still have 2010 WC's though.


Had them in stock at my LBS for a few months now.


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## Archi-Magus (Feb 22, 2010)

Beautiful build man.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Iggz said:


> Be careful with those bars man........


Maybe check'em after crashes for scratches but I don't think you need to sweat those any more than a lightish aluminum bar. I used one for 5 season of DH and just rotated it onto my townie bike after noticing a crack in the clearcoat where I think it hit something. I put a fresh Gravity Carbon on to replace it.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

hexstatic said:


> Hmm thats interesting.


Here's the new design that you want:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2010/09/30/interbike-2010-chris-king-grip-lock-system/
Here's the old o-ring part:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> Here's the new design that you want:
> https://www.bikerumor.com/2010/09/30/interbike-2010-chris-king-grip-lock-system/
> Here's the old o-ring part:


ahhh i see, yeah I think mine is the old version... :madmax:

ill try and sell it on ebay and upgrade to a Cane Creek headset, cheers for the recommendation :thumbsup:


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

If you go with Cane Creek only get 7075 aluminum (110) or stainless steel (Tank Jump) cups. I've broken a few 6000 series cups on DH and FR bikes.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> If you go with Cane Creek only get 7075 aluminum (110) or stainless steel (Tank Jump) cups. I've broken a few 6000 series cups on DH and FR bikes.


sounds good, ill check it out, hopefuly will be in the CRC sale


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

Looks great :thumbsup:, except for the carbon bars, which aren't that wide (28") by today's standards and not sure whether it can hold up to serious DH/FR.

PS My magnesium pedals took one serious blow onto a rock and exploded into pieces. Not worth the weight saving over AL IMO.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Cable0guy said:


> Looks great :thumbsup:, except for the carbon bars, which aren't that wide (28") by today's standards and not sure whether it can hold up to serious DH/FR.
> 
> PS My magnesium pedals took one serious blow onto a rock and exploded into pieces. Not worth the weight saving over AL IMO.


the carbon bars have excellent reveiws for DH/FR, but I will find out for myself sooner or later. What would be the advantage of going for a wider bar like a 30" bar, arent they a bit too wide?


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Wider bars = more leverage and slower steering. Makes high speed rough stuff easier, or at least easier on your arms. The downside is they force you to take a wider line around trees. I've settled at 28" as a compromise.

The best width for you depends on your trails, how wide your shoulders are, and how strong your arms are. Hint, lots of surfing and motocross lets you get away with narrower bars.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> Wider bars = more leverage and slower steering. Makes high speed rough stuff easier, or at least easier on your arms. The downside is they force you to take a wider line around trees. I've settled at 28" as a compromise.
> 
> The best width for you depends on your trails, how wide your shoulders are, and how strong your arms are. Hint, lots of surfing and motocross lets you get away with narrower bars.


OK cheers the advice. I'll see how I go with these, if I find them too short I can always sell them and get the Chromag OSX which is 31" IIRC.

Have just bought the Cane Creek 110 Zero stack headset, will try get a refund for the Chris King headset, if I cant i'll have to put it on ebay :idea:


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## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

Cable0guy said:


> PS My magnesium pedals took one serious blow onto a rock and exploded into pieces. Not worth the weight saving over AL IMO.


Somehow I take that as a positive to go mag over alu... Correct me if I'm wrong, but I see it as the mag body dissipating the force of the blow and possibly saving you from destroying the pedal spindle, or stripping the threads of your cranks.

hexstatic - That looks like it's gonna turn out awesome, but why such high rise bars? Why not something like the Deity Black Labels?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

juanbeegas said:


> hexstatic - That looks like it's gonna turn out awesome, but why such high rise bars? Why not something like the Deity Black Labels?


I didnt choose them specificaly for a high rise, to me the bars look awesome with the carbon fibre, and the rise I thought would be good, but you think it would be too high?

how do the Deity bars differ? are they riser bars which dont rise as much as this 40mm carbon bar?

cheers


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## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

The Deitys are a 15mm rise and would put you in a more aggressive position on your bike, they're also much wider at 787mm.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

juanbeegas said:


> The Deitys are a 15mm rise and would put you in a more aggressive position on your bike, they're also much wider at 787mm.


787mm ! thats around 80mm wider  I think i'll see how the bike feels with the carbon bars (its too late to get a refund), if it doesnt feel right then I'll swap for the Chromag OSX or the Deity Black Labels, from what Ive been hearing the wider bars are better for leverage and better for steering at speed.

cheers for the advice mate


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## norbar (Jun 5, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> 787mm ! thats around 80mm wider  I think i'll see how the bike feels with the carbon bars (its too late to get a refund), if it doesnt feel right then I'll swap for the Chromag OSX or the Deity Black Labels, from what Ive been hearing the wider bars are better for leverage and better for steering at speed.
> 
> cheers for the advice mate


The thing is the bike feels ok with 710 bars. You will not notice a differance before you spend a day riding wide bars. I also didn't belive in the wide bar thing but I wanted a Dh flat bar due to a very high front end on my last bike. I was to lazy to cut it and spend a weekend riding the 760mm bar. After it the 710s on my friends bike felt super strange. Before that they would probably feel very normal.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

norbar said:


> The thing is the bike feels ok with 710 bars. You will not notice a differance before you spend a day riding wide bars. I also didn't belive in the wide bar thing but I wanted a Dh flat bar due to a very high front end on my last bike. I was to lazy to cut it and spend a weekend riding the 760mm bar. After it the 710s on my friends bike felt super strange. Before that they would probably feel very normal.


do the wide bars ever feel too wide? or does it feel like a natural position?

If only my carbon bars were wider I could see for myself and then cut them down if necessary.


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## norbar (Jun 5, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> do the wide bars ever feel too wide? or does it feel like a natural position?
> 
> If only my carbon bars were wider I could see for myself and then cut them down if necessary.


I'm 179cm but I'm very thin framed so unless you are tiny or are one of the very few ppl who tried wides and don't like it I doubt it. I even have a friend who is ~170cm and he rocks 750s and loves his.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

OK cheers for the suggestion. I am ~180cm so shouldnt have a problem  I will do some shopping, maybe the shop will be nice and refund me for the Carbon bars


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## norbar (Jun 5, 2007)

For the record - Easton has a carbon wide bar for 2011. I think Edge too.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

norbar said:


> For the record - Easton has a carbon wide bar for 2011. I think Edge too.


thanks mate I'll check them out


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## tuumbaq (Oct 6, 2005)

sick build my friend...should be mean and FAST :thumbsup: Shockers are strong and awesome for cornering!!!

You need a new bar, as in ... don't even wait and get yourself a new one.
I once had the same bar on my XC bike (like 5 years ago) and even by today's standard I wouldn't run them on my XC bike anymore.I honestly think ist not even debatable, wider bar WILL make you faster and enjoy the bike like 10x more

Also get a new seat??? whats with the balls trap !?? May be good for XC but I for sure would ditch that for a safer seat.

Last but not least, your LBS SUCKS ass bro... 

I hope they offered you a discount on your new fork.They are likely making 50% profit on the fork anyways. Seems like they've dropped the ball on you and the least they could do is offer you a deal for the upgrade IMO. . . 

Enjoy your new ride !!!!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

tuumbaq said:


> sick build my friend...should be mean and FAST :thumbsup: Shockers are strong and awesome for cornering!!!
> 
> You need a new bar, as in ... don't even wait and get yourself a new one.
> I once had the same bar on my XC bike (like 5 years ago) and even by today's standard I wouldn't run them on my XC bike anymore.I honestly think ist not even debatable, wider bar WILL make you faster and enjoy the bike like 10x more
> ...


wise words my friend !

Ill be ordering a new bar tonight, but im between minds, do I go for the Chromag OSX which is 30", or the Dierty Black which is 31".... I prefer the look of the Chromag as I can get it in black with white which will match the frame and forks, but then I could still benefit more from the extra inch of Diety bar.... IMO. . . hmmm decisions decisions.....


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## m3t4w0rm (Aug 1, 2010)

Longer bar can be cut down as well


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

oh btw my LBS offered me a £20 refund on top of what I paid for the forks, as kind of compensation for waiting 2 months to find out they never ordered them in the first place and also for now having to buy the forks from a different company at a more expensive price ! A £20 gesture is better than nothing but still it takes the pi$$ !!


Hopefuly my haggleing skills will manage to get CRC down to a realistic/fair price instead of the extortionate £1349.99 they're currently seeking :eekster: :madmax: :eekster:


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

what is a frame like that doing with no iscg tabs?


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## HTFR (Jan 11, 2007)

saturnine said:


> what is a frame like that doing with no iscg tabs?


Tell me about it. When I had a shocker with the bash on the plate it was a real problem. Every time I used the bash guard the stoopid thing would spin around and hit the rear triangle.

To the guy building the bike, Get a guide with a bash ring. Trust me, it needs to be changed out.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

even my dj bike had tabs.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

saturnine said:


> what is a frame like that doing with no iscg tabs?


I think Cove (any myself) would rather the chain guard be replaced rather than the frame due to broken iscg tabs


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## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> Ill be ordering a new bar tonight, but im between minds, do I go for the Chromag OSX which is 30", or the Dierty Black which is 31".... I prefer the look of the Chromag as I can get it in black with white which will match the frame and forks, but then I could still benefit more from the extra inch of Diety bar.... IMO. . . hmmm decisions decisions.....


It really is up to you, but I'd choose the bar with the lower rise. Personally I like my bike low in the front, but will not go to a full on *flat* DH bar. Aesthetically, flat bars just don't look like they belong on a DH bike, in my opinion.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

juanbeegas said:


> It really is up to you, but I'd choose the bar with the lower rise. Personally I like my bike low in the front, but will not go to a full on *flat* DH bar. Aesthetically, flat bars just don't look like they belong on a DH bike, in my opinion.


I haven't ordered the bar yet, Ive still to make my mind up  I'll probably go with the Deity Flat bar, but the design of the OSX is very tempting ! :arf:


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Only listen to these guys about bar rise if you're average height. As a tall guy I tried a low rise bar and didn't like it.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

have just ordered the Boxxer WC 2011 forks in white :-D theyre in stock and they will be in my hands by the end of the week, and I got them for a bargain of a price, result!


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## Grave9 (Aug 3, 2009)

This is going to be one bad a$$ ride! ................Drew


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Grave9 said:


> This is going to be one bad a$$ ride! ................Drew


hell yes bro :band:

I need to get some form of insurance for this beast


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## norbar (Jun 5, 2007)

juanbeegas said:


> It really is up to you, but I'd choose the bar with the lower rise. Personally I like my bike low in the front, but will not go to a full on *flat* DH bar. Aesthetically, flat bars just don't look like they belong on a DH bike, in my opinion.


Naaah. They look cool with mine, maybe it's your bike to blame


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> I think Cove (any myself) would rather the chain guard be replaced rather than the frame due to broken iscg tabs


when does that actually happen? i've never seen a picture of broken tabs. i think it's a myth.


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## drewp29 (Aug 20, 2010)

Yeah, 'health' insurance . . . glad I have mine!


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

juanbeegas said:


> Somehow I take that as a positive to go mag over alu... Correct me if I'm wrong, but I see it as the mag body dissipating the force of the blow and possibly saving you from destroying the pedal spindle, or stripping the threads of your cranks.


I rather get something that allows me to keep riding. This is Wellgo MG-1 after a medium speed impact. If I had my Straitlines, it would have simply bounced off.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

that is the worst case scenario, i suppose, but i have 2 sets i've been using for quite some time that have held up fine.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Cable0guy said:


> I rather get something that allows me to keep riding. This is Wellgo MG-1 after a medium speed impact. If I had my Straitlines, it would have simply bounced off.


geeez that pedal is destroyed..... if thats what happens with magnesium pedals i might pass on getting the Nuke Proof Protons.... although, the pedal breaking up could be seen as a good thing as less damage will be done to the crankset...


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> geeez that pedal is destroyed..... if thats what happens with magnesium pedals i might pass on getting the Nuke Proof Protons.... although, the pedal breaking up could be seen as a good thing as less damage will be done to the crankset...


Care less about the pedals, cranks, or even the bike. Just don't want to hurt myself flying off the bike.


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## rep_1969 (Mar 25, 2004)

That is going to be SICK!!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

*well well well look what got delivered today ! These forks are soooo beautiful !!   










































this is going to be one sexy build! hopefuly within 1 week it will all be put together :thumbsup:*


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## Dougie (Aug 29, 2004)

hexstatic said:


> *well well well look what got delivered today ! These forks are soooo beautiful !!
> *


I only see one fork, but it's definetely nice looking.

Also, is that an 11-32 cassette with a 40T chainring? Kind of a strange combination.

Very nice build nonetheless. Congrats.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Dougie said:


> I only see one fork, but it's definetely nice looking.
> 
> Also, is that an 11-32 cassette with a 40T chainring? Kind of a strange combination.
> 
> Very nice build nonetheless. Congrats.


all the pics show up for me....

its a 34-11 cassette with a 40T chain ring, im going to be uphill every now and again, as I will be using the bike for all mountain + some XC use aswell as downhill :thumbsup:


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## Dougie (Aug 29, 2004)

hexstatic said:


> all the pics show up for me....
> 
> its a 34-11 cassette with a 40T chain ring, im going to be uphill every now and again, as I will be using the bike for all mountain + some XC use aswell as downhill :thumbsup:


Yea, with that kind of set-up I figured that you might be doing some climbing with it.

All of the pics show up for me too. I just think it's funny when people refer to a fork as "forks".

Again, real nice build man.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

Dougie said:


> I just think it's funny when people refer to a fork as "forks".


It's similar to saying "rear mech" instead of "rear derailleur".
Brits are just used to calling it "forks" instead of "fork". :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

well ive hit a small problem. my Cane Creek headset wont fit the frame. its too big. according to CRC I need a 1.5" - 1.1/8th headset, which is not what the CC 110 headset is.

they have recommended I buy this headset... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35219

what do you guys think? will this headset be suitable for DH? it only mentions XC in the description.......


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> well ive hit a small problem. my Cane Creek headset wont fit the frame. its too big. according to CRC I need a 1.5" - 1.1/8th headset, which is not what the CC 110 headset is.
> 
> they have recommended I buy this headset... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35219
> 
> what do you guys think? will this headset be suitable for DH? it only mentions XC in the description.......


Either that or:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35221

Both will work fine, yet this one will give you a "zero stack" on the lower cup bringing the front-end lower (it can be good or bad depending if you're used to it/feel you need it).
Both are also intended for DH/FR.:thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hafnz said:


> Either that or:
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35221
> 
> Both will work fine, yet this one will give you a "zero stack" on the lower cup bringing the front-end lower (it can be good or bad depending if you're used to it/feel you need it).
> Both are also intended for DH/FR.:thumbsup:


excellent thank you very much for the quick reply :thumbsup:

Im not sure what would be best, zero stack or not? what would the advantages/disadvantages of having a slightly lower front-end?


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> excellent thank you very much for the quick reply :thumbsup:
> 
> Im not sure what would be best, zero stack or not? what would the advantages/disadvantages of having a slightly lower front-end?


It can be good for a number of reasons, but I'd say it's mostly a feel thing,

For instance, if you're coming from another DH bike and you'd like to keep the same front-end height for feel's sake it can be simply a mathematical option, you add the axle to crown height of your previous bike to the stack height of its headset, the frame's head tube length and the spacers below the stem, to the new axle to crown, the new frame's head tube length and potential new headset and figure out if it's lower or higher than the old one.
As a bottom line we/you can get used to mostly anything (length of stem, width of handlebars and so on) yet personally I think I've found my sweet-spot with my biometrics in front-end height with the combo of head tube length, stem and bar rise/length and always feel funky riding anything that is higher or too much over the front wheel (over the bars feeling) if its lower. That could be one of the reasons to choose.

On a physics standpoint if you ride very steep tracks most people prefer higher front-ends to shift the center of gravity more to the back of the bike, as a countermeasure to that over the bars feeling. Yet, if it's too high it can be bad to the front wheel traction if your weight is too much to the back of the bike.

Another factor that can come into play is the frame's head tube angle, for each 12mm or so that you add below your head tube, it will change to +0.5º. While I'm not sure if it's standard for a manufacturer to measure the head tube angle considering any stack height or not, it's another detail that can slightly change the characteristics of the bike.

Also, with your Boxxer, in adition to all these measurements you can still rise it up or lower it up a notch (also changing the head tube angle and bottom bracket height), depending on what top crown you use or add spacers below the stem to fine tune it.

It can also be a simply economical choice, none will give you adverse or non-fixable riding characteristics so unless you're really set on one, in particular, I wouldn't sweat it on it being the wrong choice.

From the top of my head that's about it. :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hafnz you are a legend! thank you so much for the detailed explanation 

Ive decided to go with the standard CC XC-II headset, the total stack of this headset is 18.6mm where as the flush/zerostack headset is 10.1mm, 8.5mm difference isnt a huge difference I could imagine it would be hard to feel the difference of either when on the bike. 

I might feel the difference a lot more with the change of handle bars, going from a 40mm rise of the Gravity Carbon bars, to the 25mm rise of the Chromag OSX bar. I'll post some pics of the new bar in a few mins (it is stunning!)

cheers!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

*New Chromag OSX Paint Series - White/Black  *


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

hexstatic said:


> *New Chromag OSX Paint Series - White/Black  *


Yeah, I've been running those with my white lyrik 170 dh...it all matches well. Both have aquired quite a bit of rash, though...


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## darkzeon (Jun 15, 2006)

Are those bears dancing?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

darkzeon said:


> Are those bears dancing?


I think they are!


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

best bar and don't forget the direct mount stem from chromag!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> best bar and don't forget the direct mount stem from chromag!


ive gone for a Hope direct mount stem :thumbsup:

cant wait till this thing is put together, am just waiting on the new headset to arrive


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

my new CC XC-II headset should be arriving today, aslong as it does the bike will be built tomorrow 

to say im excited would be an understatement !


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## robatki (Jul 14, 2009)

After reading this thread, i may be as excited as you. I love the uniqueness of the different bike and component brands. Thanks for posting pictures. You made my work day!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hey robatki cheers for you post 

This week has been a night mare with regard to the headset.

Firstly, I wanted to buy the Cane Creek 110 standard headset, but Chain Reaction Cycles say no this wont fit my Shocker frame. However they said the CC 110 Zero headset will fit, so then I buy that headset. Headset arrives... doesnt fit. I phone CRC back, "very sorry we made a mistake, that headset wont fit, but this one will". So they recommend the Cane Creek XCII 1.5 -> 1.1/8th, so then I order that headset. Next day I phone them back asking for tracking number, "very sorry but your order got cancelled", like WTF are they doing!?? Apparently there was some error with the computer and Ive been automatically refunded... So I place the order again (this time with free special delivery).... Finally it arrives... and doesn't fit !! I phone them back, "oh really really sorry we got it wrong (again!)". Then then say to me I need a standard 1.125 -> 1.1/8th headset (which corresponds with what I read from silverfish website). CRC then recommend I go for the standard Cane Creek 110 headset (which I the one I initially wanted but got told wouldnt fit!). To say I wasnt amused would be an understatement! CRC said for the hassle they caused me they would do me the CC 110 headset for £60 inc. special delivery, so I accepted. Standard price of this headset is £125 

Yesterday I dropped all the parts off to my LBS to get built (minus a headset which should arrive today). As long as it arrives today I'll be picking the bike up in the afternoon  Has been a week of hassle but it will be worth it when I get to feast my eyes on the beauty of this DH bike 

It felt horrible dropping off all my expensive parts to complete strangers, only to leave with a bit of paper saying I'd paid for a build. :eekster:


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

What 110 model is it?
Aren't the 110 series either 1.1/8th or 1.5, yet not 1.5 to 1.1/8th reducers?
I can be wrong, but from reading a bit on the Cane Creek website that's what I'm getting.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hafnz said:


> What 110 model is it?
> Aren't the 110 series either 1.1/8th or 1.5, yet not 1.5 to 1.1/8th reducers?
> I can be wrong, but from reading a bit on the Cane Creek website that's what I'm getting.


it is this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28509

they assured me it will fit (although I could take that with a pinch of salt as this is the 3rd item they said "will" fit)

I need a 1.125" headset, with a 1.1'8th steerer. Fingers crossed this is the correct one 

they said 1.125" is the standard headset size, and that this headset is definitely the standard size and is non-oversized like the previous ones.....


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

I think it may all gotten a bit confusing with so many measurements, 1.125" or 1.1/8th' is the same measurement, just different units.

The Cover Shocker has a 1.5 headtube and the Boxxer has a 1.1/8th steerer tube.
So what you need is a headset that fits the 1.5 but is designed to take 1.1/8th steerer tubes.

That 110 model can be specifically for frames with 1.1/8th headtubes (to take 1.1/8th steerer tubes) or frames with 1.5 headtubes (to take 1.5 steerer tubes) but there's no 110 model that acts as a reducer.

The Cane Creek XCII 1.5 to 1.1/8th was actually the correct one, the Flush version (zero stack) would also be ok.
I'm guessing they got lost in so many measurements and think that you have a 1.5 steerer tube fork to go with the Shocker and not the Boxxer (or else they really messed up and have no idea that the Shocker has a 1.5 head tube and sent you the same headset you got the first time).

This is a bit painful for me to say as even I feel that's a pain to have CRC have multiple mistakes on something.
I'd try and get the headset at the same place you're getting it build, if they have a reducer that is, otherwise it will be yet again a couple of days wasted.

Edit: Maybe someone else can also chime in to either agree or disagree with me.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

Now I'm getting different results to my search on to wether the Shocker has a 1.5 or 1.1/8th headtube.

Cove's website states 1.5 yet a PB post states 1.1/8th, the pictures from PB with headsets installed also look like 1.1/8th, so it is possible that this 1.5 that Cove states is a new revision of the Shocker and not yours.

I'm hoping it is and if so, I'm sorry to have started this fuss.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

thanks for the replies mate,

check this out, this is where im getting my 1.125" figure from: http://www.silverfish-uk.com/cms-files/resources/12-f0e2ba7c7f10ffbe4e8425257c0ec504.pdf

it states headset is 1.125"...... 1.125" is slightly bigger than 1.1/8th. 1.1/8th for the steerer tube diameter measures 28.6mm IIRC, and the hole in my frame which the headset will fit into measures roughly 33mm diameter.

I tried to fit the 1.5" headset but it was gigantic compared to the hole in the frame for the headset. There is absolutely no way this headset would fit. However, the 2011 redesigned Cove Shocker does use a 1.5" headset, so this is possibly where you got this figure from


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## orion_cycles (Dec 1, 2008)

hexstatic said:


> thanks for the replies mate,
> 
> check this out, this is where im getting my 1.125" figure from: http://www.silverfish-uk.com/cms-files/resources/12-f0e2ba7c7f10ffbe4e8425257c0ec504.pdf
> 
> ...


1 1/8" = 1.125"


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

orion_cycles said:


> 1 1/8" = 1.125"


haha ^^ to compicate things even more  :eekster:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

will be picking the bike up in roughly 2 hours time from my LBS.

I am soooo excited hahahahaha, the time has finally come 

I will post loads of pictures when I get it back home. hahha, im like a small child before a Disney holiday! !


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

"Uhm, yeah, hi, this is Dom from down the LBS...so listen, we had a bit of a screw up at the shop today, we may have lost some of your parts, not quite sure how that happened, but anyway, we've had a rummage around and come up with suitable replacement parts. We had some trouble with the headset which appears to be of a strange size, but we got the TIG out and it's OK now. Hope you like what we did. Oh and we'll refund the build cost for the inconvenience...just bring in the piece of paper we gave you. Here she is - beaut', eh?"


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

BB high 30" ?


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## RJJ (Jul 19, 2006)

hexstatic, I am also loving this thread. Your bike will be great, and it's fantastic reading about the build progressing. Please, if you get any time, can you keep us updated with as much detail as you can be bothered to write. The more the better + pics!

I have a Demo 8 (2011) complete build on order, and am starting to regret not just getting a frame and doing the build myself with my personally chosen parts as you have done (though I would probably have chosen a few cheaper bits than you have).

P.S. Please also get a good lock and insurance policy. It will be a disaster if some envious git nicks it just after you complete it.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hey guys, thanks for your posts  iceman..... I first read your post via my blackberry, I was like WTF is this a joke, then realised it definitely was, my heart skipped a beat for a moment there !! 

RJJ, Im currently uploading a lot of photos to photobucket, will be done shortly, and ill add them into this thread for all to see  The bike it completely built now, with the exception of my headset (the Cane Creek 110), its currently got a Hope XC headset, I decided to get the Hope one fitted just so I could have the bike complete today, instead of waiting for Chain Reaction Cycles to mess things up for the 5th time this week...

Im over the moon with the build, its an absolutely incredible bike, and I really cant wait to start riding it. I think I should give it a name, or give her a name, should a say  any ideas??

Unfortunately it has not all been highs with the build, upon closer inspection at home I noticed 2 chips in the paintwork on my brand new Boxxer WC forks!!! The most obvious one was hidden under a 2nd cable tie, conveniently placed over the chip, it was upon removal of sed cable tie that I realised the chip in the paintwork. I am absolutely livid. Words cannot describe my disappointmet with my LBS. Not only did they chip my new forks, they covered the damage up, with intent on deceiving me. Had they of been honest, it would of been less of a blow to me, but trying to hide it with a blooming cable tie really takes the piss! 

Anyway, its 99.9% positive, as the bike is absulutely stunning, and as I ride, it will without doubt obtain many more scratches and chips in the paintwork. (although thats not really the point as it would be me causing the damage, not some 'mechanic' at my LBS), but anyway, I must focus on the positives, I am now the proud owner of a Cove Shocker 

Pics will be posted within the next 5 mins  !!!!!!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

WELL HERE SHE IS !!!!!!!!  :eekster:  :eekster: 


































































































































Views and opinions please !!!!!! :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

hexstatic said:
 

> WELL HERE SHE IS !!!!!!!!  :eekster:  :eekster:
> Views and opinions please !!!!!! :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:


Awesomeness! :thumbsup:


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Does that shop work on a lot of DH bikes?

Edit: I asked because the brake levers and seat aren't where most DHers put them. It looks like they left the banjos how they came out of the box, routed the front hose wrong, and didn't trim the hoses. Also, I'd rotate the bashguard a few degrees clockwise so the flat part on the bottom is flat with the ground. Great parts spec though!


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## 62kona (Mar 25, 2008)

Dude, the bike looks amazing. Those rotors look so beefy! I want some one day.


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

Lelandjt said:


> Does that shop work on a lot of DH bikes?
> 
> Edit: I asked because the brake levers and seat aren't where most DHers put them. It looks like they left the banjos how they came out of the box, routed the front hose wrong, and didn't trim the hoses. Also, I'd rotate the bashguard a few degrees clockwise so the flat part on the bottom is flat with the ground. Great parts spec though!


I was thinking the exact same things. Those Hopes are going to be hard to use with the levers where they are.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> Does that shop work on a lot of DH bikes?
> 
> Edit: I asked because the brake levers and seat aren't where most DHers put them. It looks like they left the banjos how they came out of the box, routed the front hose wrong, and didn't trim the hoses. Also, I'd rotate the bashguard a few degrees clockwise so the flat part on the bottom is flat with the ground. Great parts spec though!


hi mate,

no this shop does not build a lot of DH bikes. all of the workers there in awe of this bike, (which is understandable haha), but no I doubt they have ever built one of the same caliber of this.

the cabling is one thing I am not happy about, they have not used their common sense and routed the shifter cable along the right side of the frame, and they havnt got the hose running along the inside of the frame. And for the rear brake hose, they have that going along the right hand side of the frame, and then crossing over to the left side underneath the shock, it then runs on the outside of the frame, rather than the inside where it is supposed to be.... like WTF are they doing. Common sense just doesnt seem to be common anymore! I even said to them, make sure you get the hoses running on the inside of the frame, but no, they ignore that and do as they wish.

How would you recommend I have the brake levers? Angled up a bit more so they dont point downwards so much?

I will try rotate the bash gaurd a bit, I guess i'll have to loosen the bottom bracket to do this.,,


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## m3t4w0rm (Aug 1, 2010)

I have mine pointed downwards so they are comfortable when standing up.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

m3t4w0rm said:


> I have mine pointed downwards so they are comfortable when standing up.


hmm ok, i'll have to get on the bike and see what position is most comfortable when standing :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

also, I think I need to get a heavier spring, it is currently a 450 lb spring, and I think it sags too much when I sit on it. I havnt owned a full susp. bike before, so I dont know if this is a normal level of sag or not, how much should it be compressing when I sit on it??? 

I am 82 kgs // 180 lbs without gear.


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## m3t4w0rm (Aug 1, 2010)

I have my bikes setup to sag 30% in the back and 20-25% up front.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

m3t4w0rm said:


> I have my bikes setup to sag 30% in the back and 20-25% up front.


oh ok I guess mine is normal then, have roughly 25->30% sag 

front sag is low though, I think I should lower some psi, sag is currently around 8%


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Move the levers in toward the stem and use the reach adjusters to bring them in so your index finger falls near the end and they stop only about 1.5cm from the grip (my hands are big so they're a little farther out).









The bolt that holds the line to the caliper can be _slightly_ loosened and then you can rotate it so the line makes a straight shot to the line holder:









The front hose should route on the inside of the fork leg:









Your rear hose should route on the left side of the headtube and the shift cable on the right. Then the hoses and cables should be cut shorter and the hoses bled. I'd expect this to be part of a "build" but I'm not surprised to see a shop avoid bleeding if their mechanic isn't quick at it.

Also tilt your seat back a little and it will be more comfortable when low.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

thats for the info buddy, I'll have a go rotating the levers when it gets day light. I also wanted to sort the rear brake hose out, but to do this I need to remove the rear shock, (which is probably a good thing as the ex-LBS probably didnt use correct torque settings when re-fitting it!). I'll be able to adjust the positioning of the brake hose around the fork, and where it goes through the frame, but I wont be able to change the length, not unless I go back to them and say "oi why did you leave this so long..." but then, id rather have as little to do with them as possible !

Im still very annoyed about them damaging the fork and covering it up with a cable tie!! I will be having words with their manager today, although I dont know what good it will do me!


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Not much you can do now but develop bad blood with your local shop. They probably don't like you already for buying parts online and bringing them in to be installed. In the future beware of shops that don't seem to do a lot of full suspension and disc brake business. I actually never let anyone work on my bikes cuz of stuff like this and your scratched fork.

They may not even know how to shorten and bleed your hoses so now's the time to learn how and get what you need to do it, it's not hard. Search or start a thread in the brake forum.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> Not much you can do now but develop bad blood with your local shop. They probably don't like you already for buying parts online and bringing them in to be installed. In the future beware of shops that don't seem to do a lot of full suspension and disc brake business. I actually never let anyone work on my bikes cuz of stuff like this and your scratched fork.
> 
> They may not even know how to shorten and bleed your hoses so now's the time to learn how and get what you need to do it, it's not hard. Search or start a thread in the brake forum.


the crazy thing is I did originaly buy my forks from them, it was their failing to actually order them after having my money for +1.5 months that made me buy them from somewhere else, as for all the other parts, if their prices were inline with the competitors I would of gone through them. Stupid LBS, or I should say, ex-LBS :thumbsup:

Im all up for learning, i'll have a browse in the brake section hopefuly I can find the info. If I cant it wont cause any harm having the hose a bit longer than it should be, would it?? :skep:

Id also like to learn how to set up my rear mech, this way I could remove the cable myself and route it properly without the need to go back to the shop.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Nothing wrong with too long hoses except extra weight and maybe they could catch brush. Searching these forums will get you all the info you need to work on your whole bike. That's invaluable when you have good stuff and plan to ride hard. Just work slowly and carefully and be careful to not over-torque and strip bolts. A lot of stuff on bikes has aluminum threads.


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## m3t4w0rm (Aug 1, 2010)

Youtube "how to set up rear derailer" and you get some decent vids and then just try it out, mess with things after writing down what they were before your messed with them.


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Congrats man! Looks awesome! Enjoy! :thumbsup:

Sorry to hear about the chips...the LBS should have just said "there, we made the first scratch for you so you won't have a crash on the first run...", and then apologize, and not try to hide it. But as you say, there will be many more to come.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

cheers for your posts guys. and Iceman yeah you are right, there will be many more chips to come. Im just very glad the chip is on the forks and not the frame, otherwise I would really have been upset.

haha plus, If I didnt want the chip to be visable, I could just cover it up with a cable tie (taking a page out of the LBS's book there!) haha 

its 07:45 here in London, time to start tinkering with the bike wooo


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Lelandjt said:


> Move the levers in toward the stem and use the reach adjusters to bring them in so your index finger falls near the end and they stop only about 1.5cm from the grip (my hands are big so they're a little farther out).
> 
> The bolt that holds the line to the caliper can be _slightly_ loosened and then you can rotate it so the line makes a straight shot to the line holder:
> 
> ...


Yeah, it's really amazing to see them let your bike leave the shop that way. You wonder if they actually even sit on the thing once they're done assembling it (never mind actually riding...). Cable routing and the position of the levers/saddle tell us it's the trainee what did it... 

When I had my last bike built, I spent the day at the LBS/importer, we built it together. The guy insisted on having me there if I could spare the time, said it was part of the fun for him. We had a good day, drinking coffee, talking shop (pun intended), lunch, finishing up the build, then out for the shakedown ride. As good a day as they come. You obviously need a good relationship for this to work, and some guys probably don't want you around when they fiddle with your pride and joy ('cause then they can't use the BIG HAMMER when something doesn't quite go as planned), but if they'll have you, definitely hang around!
That way you also learn a lot - comes in handy later for maintenance, fixing stuff or installing upgrades. I'd build the whole thing myself but I lack some of the tools (actually only missing the headset press by now...).


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

yeah you make a good point, staying with them while they built it would have been a good thing...

another thing ive noticed, the pads are slightly rubbing on the rear disc, and quite significantly rubbing on the front disc... the rear wheel rotates freely, but when I spin the front it slows down quite a lot due to the pads rubbing the disc. Amatuer bike shop tbh, they should have sorted this out.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

so far so good, ive removed the rear shock and managed to re-route the gear cable to the drive side, and the rear brake hose to the non-drive side, both going through the frame now instead of on the outside 

ive also adjusted where the brake hoses enter the calipers so its not sticking out like before, now it is more flush  will add some pics shortly


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hexstatic said:


> also, I think I need to get a heavier spring, it is currently a 450 lb spring, and I think it sags too much when I sit on it. I havnt owned a full susp. bike before, so I dont know if this is a normal level of sag or not, how much should it be compressing when I sit on it???
> 
> I am 82 kgs // 180 lbs without gear.


i run the shocker 6mt i am 92kg and run a 450 spring you should go to 300-50!!! and do you brake really moto style?


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

front go to a 34" and rear 11-28 saint casette


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> i run the shocker 6mt i am 92kg and run a 450 spring you should go to 300-50!!! and do you brake really moto style?


go for a lighter spring.... :eekster: mate it feels well soft as it is, I wouldnt dare go lighter, was thinking about trying a 500 -> 550 lb spring!

what you mean brake moto style?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> front go to a 34" and rear 11-28 saint casette


if I was using the bike solely for DownHill then yes, but I will be using it for all mountain use aswell as downhill, I will be going up hill at times so need this configuration :thumbsup:

oh yes.... I weighed the bike at the ex-LBS last night.... anyone care to guess the weight of this beast???? :skep:


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## RJJ (Jul 19, 2006)

37.5 lbs?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

RJJ said:


> 37.5 lbs?


no its a bit fatter...... 39.0 lbs :blush:

my goal was to get it under the 40 lbs mark, which Im very happy to have achieved :thumbsup:


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hexstatic said:


> go for a lighter spring.... :eekster: mate it feels well soft as it is, I wouldnt dare go lighter, was thinking about trying a 500 -> 550 lb spring!
> 
> what you mean brake moto style?


sorry but do you go DH or CC you need 33% sag that is 25mm sag!!
with this sag you can go up.. close only the pro pedal!


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hexstatic said:


> what you mean brake moto style?


right lever is normally rear brake!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> sorry but do you go DH or CC you need 33% sag that is 25mm sag!!
> with this sag you can go up.. close only the pro pedal!


75% is Downhill, the other part is CC and AM use.

The 33% sag, that is for the rear shock?

for the front anywhere between 10%->30% is good?


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

yes, rear. front 25%


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> yes, rear. front 25%


cheers mate,

I see what you mean about the brakes! right is normally rear brake, but I guess my ex-LBS had a different view !! funny thing is I didnt even notice 

Ive now swapped them over haha :thumbsup:


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hexstatic said:


> cheers mate,
> 
> I see what you mean about the brakes! right is normally rear brake, but I guess my ex-LBS had a different view !! funny thing is I didnt even notice
> 
> Ive now swapped them over haha :thumbsup:


hey, very funny... hope you do not dh style like your rig was build ?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> hey, very funny... hope you do not dh style like your rig was build ?


no im not that scary on a bike !! :ciappa:


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## tuumbaq (Oct 6, 2005)

I love the bike bro, Ive always been a fan of those and you've managed to keep it under 40 wich is pretty good in my good. Nice build !!:thumbsup: 


Noticed you were saying you only get 8% sag up front...Are you sure you know how to measure your sag correctly ? Where/how did you get started for your PSI? Also dont forget to factor in the compression settings as well while measuring, on a fork like the WC, both HSC and LSC are dragging quite a bit and affects your sag as well.

Ditch the QR on that seatpost, its completely unnecessary and will most like get hung up in your short at some point anyways . . .Beside, your seatpost is too short for raising to seat up if you were planning on doing so for your uphill session.

and GET A NEW SEAT !!!! WTF is that thing ? A booby trap for your shorts ?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hey tummbaq!

yeah 8% sag is roughly what im getting. I move the travel indicator (red rubber band arround right stanction) to the start of the travel, I then sit on the bike, get off the bike and view how far it has sagged. it falles just short of the 10% mark. 

Im going by the rockshox air spring guide, it states rider weight 81 -> 90 kg (180 -> 200 lbs), should use 85 -> 100 PSI. 

I am 82 kg (180 lbs) so I set it to 85 PSI.

Maybe I should lower the PSI until I get the correct sag. I would guess the design of the bike frame would affect how much rider weight is over the front forks, this could be part of why its not sagging very much at the recommended PSI.....


and yeah I am having 2nd thoughts about the saddle. It just doesnt fit in well with the rest of the bike. its a shiney black which doesnt match any other part. Ive yet to see any other saddle I fancy, if you have any you can recommend please post me a link


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

hexstatic said:


> if I was using the bike solely for DownHill then yes, but I will be using it for all mountain use aswell as downhill, I will be going up hill at times so need this configuration :thumbsup:
> 
> oh yes.... I weighed the bike at the ex-LBS last night.... anyone care to guess the weight of this beast???? :skep:


So you went back to use their scale after you hate them here?


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

The fork probably has dry seals and wipers. Also, it is brand new and needs to be broken in. Run less PSI and get the proper sag as the PSI rating s on the fork are just guidelines. I suggest doing a rebuild and checking the oil levels of the fork and lubing up the seals before riding it anyways.


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## Hirvi (Oct 8, 2007)

You need to measure your sag (both ends) in your riding position. You're not riding DH sitting down, are you? Take a proper attack position on the bike, pump it up and down a few times, and let your buddy do the measuring while you're on the bike!


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## latedropbob (Aug 6, 2007)

Happy Shocker day!!! I love mine...best bike ever!!! :cornut:


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## weescott (May 7, 2006)

hexstatic said:


> cheers mate,
> 
> I see what you mean about the brakes! right is normally rear brake, but I guess my ex-LBS had a different view !! funny thing is I didnt even notice
> 
> Ive now swapped them over haha :thumbsup:


You had it set up proper before. It's the yanks that do it wrong! UK is right lever to front. Now change it back! :lol:

Sweet looking ride :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

fixbikeguy said:


> So you went back to use their scale after you hate them here?


no mate, I asked them to weigh it yesterday evening when I picked the bike up. They had a propper set of scales which you hang the bike from, unlike me who would of just used bathroom scales


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

weescott said:


> You had it set up proper before. It's the yanks that do it wrong! UK is right lever to front. Now change it back! :lol:
> 
> Sweet looking ride :thumbsup:


really?

I know that I SHOULD know, but this has just confused me !!!!  I cant for the life of me remember how it was set up on my last bike. And with the quality of work from my ex-LBS I wouldnt be suprised if they put the brakes on the wrong sides ! haha

to be honest it felt good how it was. but now ive swapped them over (to the american style?) it just feels weird. and when you think about it, when going downhill you will be using your rear brake a lot more than your front, and you have the gear shifter on the right hand side, so surely it would make more sense to have the rear brake on the LEFT and the front on the RIGHT?? otherwise wont your right hand will be over worked by using the brake and gear shifter whilst your left hand is doing nothing....???

that would be my logic to it, makes more sense than driving on the right hand side of the road anyway :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

latedropbob said:


> Happy Shocker day!!! I love mine...best bike ever!!! :cornut:


hey fellow shocker owner 

did the bike take a while to get used to? or did it feel perfect straight away?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Hirvi said:


> You need to measure your sag (both ends) in your riding position. You're not riding DH sitting down, are you? Take a proper attack position on the bike, pump it up and down a few times, and let your buddy do the measuring while you're on the bike!


very good point. cheers!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

fixbikeguy said:


> The fork probably has dry seals and wipers. Also, it is brand new and needs to be broken in. Run less PSI and get the proper sag as the PSI rating s on the fork are just guidelines. I suggest doing a rebuild and checking the oil levels of the fork and lubing up the seals before riding it anyways.


Im not going to have it serviced quite yet, i'll give it a little while and then send it off to TF Tuned for a full service


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## latedropbob (Aug 6, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> hey fellow shocker owner
> 
> did the bike take a while to get used to? or did it feel perfect straight away?


Coming off of a blindside it was night and day but once I found the sweet spot I have no issues at all with this bike. You really gotta romp her good, you can't just sit on top and ride I run a little more sag than usual and that helps a bunch...don't worry, it can take it, she's a shocker!!!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

latedropbob said:


> Coming off of a blindside it was night and day but once I found the sweet spot I have no issues at all with this bike. You really gotta romp her good, you can't just sit on top and ride I run a little more sag than usual and that helps a bunch...don't worry, it can take it, she's a shocker!!!


thats good news !!

i'll be sure to give her a pounding !!


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Re: saddle - the Chromag Lynx DT looks pretty killer, next one to try on my list...










UK brake set up is typically front on the right, like on a motorcycle (hence moto-style...).


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

yeah those look sweet mate  i especially like the white one 

the UK brake setup is logical to me, haha maybe because im English


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

*I found this an interesting read about which side to have the brake levers *

Which Brake Which Side?
There is considerable disagreement as to which brake should be connected to which lever:

* Some cyclists say it is best to have the stronger right hand (presuming a right-handed cyclist) operate the rear brake.
* Motorcycles always have the right hand control the front brake, so cyclists who are also motorcyclists often prefer this setup. A moment of confusion in an emergency situation can be deadly. The left lever on a motorcycle operates the clutch, which will not stop you!

There are also observable national trends:

* In countries where vehicles drive on the right, it is common to set the brakes up so that the front brake is operated by the left lever.
* In countries where vehicles drive on the left, it is common to set the brakes up so that the front brake is operated by the right lever. (The European Union has, however, adopted this as a standard, even though most European countires drive on the right.)

The theory that seems most probable to me is that the national standards arose from a concern that the cyclist be able to make hand signals, and still be able to reach the primary brake. This logical idea is, unfortunately, accompanied by the incorrect premise that the rear brake is the primary brake.

For this reason, I set my own bikes up so that the right hand controls the front brake, which is not the norm in the U.S.

I also do this because I'm right-handed, and wish to have my more skillful hand operate the more critical brake.


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## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

i am right-handed but find that i have the precision necessary with my left hand to control the front brake.


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

I rode motorbikes a lot when I was younger. I have no choice in the matter anymore...no way I could re-learn with the front on the left...


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I have my dirtbike setup with front brake on left, rear brake on right. Auto clutch. I'm just too used to controlling the rear brake with the right finger.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> ...* I'd rotate the bashguard a few degrees clockwise so the flat part on the bottom is flat with the ground*. Great parts spec though!


ive looked at rotating it, but I cant rotate it clockwise anymore as the chain will start hitting the frame (where the chain exits the chain stay, it would hit on the the part of the frame just above it), hopefuly you can see what I mean from the pics.

:thumbsup:


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## RJJ (Jul 19, 2006)

Hexstatic,

So how does it ride?

I assume you have seen this, but in case you missed it this a a short review of another Shocker from Feb 2010, though not as nicer spec as yours.

http://www.dropmachine.com/Feature/lachezar-nikolovs-cove-shocker-a593.html


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

RJJ said:


> Hexstatic,
> 
> So how does it ride?
> 
> ...


hi mate,

well, believe it or not I havnt ridden it yet! :madman: When I got it home I noticed the headset was a bit loose, when I lift the handlebars up slightly I can hear and feel the steerer tube hitting the headset. I am guessing this is because the headset has not been installed propperly??

I hadnt seen that review before, its excellent, and rates the Shocker very highly ! That orange colour is a bit SHOCKING !!! 

I have the bike booked in to a new bike shop on Wednesday to get my Cane Creek 110 headset fitted, this time I will ensure there is no loose feel to anything!

I probably could have taken the bike for a ride and not caused damage to anything but its not worth the risk, I can wait a few days until I get the bike in perfect form.

I fitted a direct mount bracket to my Hope Tech V2 level which allows the Sram X0 shifter to be mounted inline with the brake level. I'll post a pic or two shortly  it makes a big difference, i can now position both the brake level and shifter perfectly :thumbsup:


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## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

Love my shocker, first bike I've owned that I have ZERO desire to replace after riding for more than 1 season(2011 will be my 3rd season on the shocker). Nice build, if you start to ride some steeper/rougher terrain I'd highly recommend picking up the NSB modified geometry dropouts: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55108
Slackens her up .5* and lowers the bb height almost .5", def. noticeable change, and makes the bike feel even faster than it already is. Also I recommend going up 50lbs. above what most spring calculators spit out, I found that a 550lb spring feels a lot better than the recommended 500lb spring those calculators came up with.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

hi mate. thanks for the info. I had seen those modified dropouts before but until your post I wasnt really sure of what they did and how they would benefit  thanks again 

I currently have the 450 lb spring, and It does feel too soft. (maybe I am fatter than I thought haha!) My CC Double Barrel has been made and is now with the company I bought it from, I will ask them to provide a 550lb spring instead of the 450. If I do find the 550 is too hard I can always go down to 500lb, steel springs are cheap anyway so it wouldnt matter too much 

I collected the Shocker from a new LBS (this one has excellent customer service and is very professional  ) it has the new Cane Creek 110 headset fitted, and I got them to recheck all bolts for correct torque settings. I had a brief ride (only in a supermarket carpark!) but from what I did ride it felt lovely. The frame is suprisingly short, it must make for very good manueverability. I cant wait to hit the trails tomorrow, and Saturday. Saturday I have the whole day dedicated to riding trails, I cant wait


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## olijay (Feb 19, 2009)

Be sure to do a ride report! Happy trails


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

olijay said:


> Be sure to do a ride report! Happy trails


well well well..... rode the bike for the first time today, and geez, what a lovely bike she is  Completely different to any bike I have previously ridden. I The geometary feels perfect, the bike promotes a lovely riding position.

There was one part of a trail which was very steep, at the start of it I thought "oh gosh theres no going back now", so I decided to just ride it, the bike ate it up like it was nothing. I am very very impressed with both the Shocker frame, and the Boxxer WC forks. I cant wait to hit the trails for a full day tomorrow rather than just a few hours today.

I need to spend a good amount of time dialling in the Boxxer forks, am going Urban freeriding with some friends in Windsor tonight, this should be a good place to do it, with a lot of looong stair sets :thumbsup:

Will post more soon


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

forgot to add that my combination of gearing is really bad for what I need. Going uphill was ridiculously hard!! I got off half way and tried using my friends bike which had a 36T chainring, whereas mine is 40T. His was waaay easier to pedal uphill. Im going to order a new chain ring, 36T tonight from Chain Reaction. Will get it fitted ASAP as it was a major main in the a$$ going up hill


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

just came back from a street ride in Windsor, sessioned loads of stair sets, it was really good to help dial in the forks 

they are so adjustable its beyond belief, its going to take ages to get them right. but so far so good, they are soft enough going over the steps, and rebound quick enough that it feels smooth without running out of travel 

i love this bike sooooo much!! it truely is an epic build ! 

now I just need to get myself a good full face helmet


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

well my new Cane Creek Double Barrel shock has arrived, custom built for the geometry of my Cove Shocker 2010 frame in size medium 

Its an incredible shock, and the amount of adjustments are crazy, its like the Boxxer World Cup of Rear Shocks ! It has, preload, high speed rebound, low speed rebound, high speed compression, low speed compression adjustments 

some pics of this sexy piece 


























Old Fox DHX 5.0 shock, replaced with the Double Barrel. The DB is ever so slightly lighter 


































However, there is 1 problem, Cane Creek supplied the shock with incorrect bushing size for the bushing which mounts at the front of the frame!  The standard shock has roughly a 32mm bushing width, but the Double Barrel they sent me has a 25mm bushing width!  argh, hassle !!! 

Have told them about this and am currently awaiting feedback from Cane Creek. Hopefuly they can resolve this quickly, I was hoping to be riding with the new shock today


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## PeterWest (Sep 19, 2010)

Sweet!! Where did you buy the shock from?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

PeterWest said:


> Sweet!! Where did you buy the shock from?


ebay.com (a shop called Trowel Trades) 

luckily for me they declared it as a gift valued at $100, so in 'only' paid £27 import duties. Had they declared it at the full $600 I dread to think how much our wonderful Customs would have charged me :O


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

you can take the bushing from your dhx!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

8664 said:


> you can take the bushing from your dhx!


yeah thats what ive done, although its a different type of bushing. The Fox shock uses a reducer type bushing, instead of the heavy duty type bushing the Cane Creek shock uses. I spoke with TF Tuned this morning, they are going to make me a custom light weight mount kit with a steel inner pin (aluminium is weaker) measuring 8mm x 33mm. The anodised gold of the mount kit will go very nice against the gold of the shock 

mount kit --> http://www.tftunedshox.com/catalogue/image.aspx?img_id=3d4e75b7-2bb8-43c5-96d8-9d4200a628b5

ill post pics of the Double Barrel fitted to the bike shortly 

:thumbsup:


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## illini (Dec 31, 2009)

hexstatic said:


> wise words my friend !
> 
> Ill be ordering a new bar tonight, but im between minds, do I go for the Chromag OSX which is 30", or the Dierty Black which is 31".... I prefer the look of the Chromag as I can get it in black with white which will match the frame and forks, but then I could still benefit more from the extra inch of Diety bar.... IMO. . . hmmm decisions decisions.....


If you can get Chromag "Get Chromag"!......


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

illini said:


> If you can get Chromag "Get Chromag"!......


haha thats good timing, just as I was looking at buying this:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49028

or this:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=62050

I dunno which to choose


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

here we are, Cane Creek Double Barrel installed :thumbsup: 










































































Such a sexy thing  :thumbsup:


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## jasevr4 (Feb 23, 2005)

That saddle is seriously letting the team down.


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## 8664 (Oct 17, 2005)

hexstatic said:


> yeah thats what ive done, although its a different type of bushing. The Fox shock uses a reducer type bushing, instead of the heavy duty type bushing the Cane Creek shock uses. I spoke with TF Tuned this morning, they are going to make me a custom light weight mount kit with a steel inner pin (aluminium is weaker) measuring 8mm x 33mm. The anodised gold of the mount kit will go very nice against the gold of the shock
> 
> mount kit --> http://www.tftunedshox.com/catalogue/image.aspx?img_id=3d4e75b7-2bb8-43c5-96d8-9d4200a628b5
> 
> ...


or you can order the "3 piece shock mounts via sram this is the same as the vivid M8" all together $30

like this
http://www.banditbike.ch/catalog/pr...=1869&osCsid=7fe51d095cc84c212c77e1d35dd3b6c1


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## Norcoshore1 (Apr 28, 2010)

hexstatic said:


> here we are, Cane Creek Double Barrel installed :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats just efffin sick. It puts mine, and most others bikes to shame


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Norcoshore1 said:


> Thats just efffin sick. It puts mine, and most others bikes to shame


it is my dream build mate (apart from the saddle!!)  custom built from the ground up, with bombing down the French Alps in mind :eekster:

:thumbsup:


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## olijay (Feb 19, 2009)

hexstatic said:


> it is my dream build mate (apart from the saddle!!)  custom built from the ground up, with bombing down the French Alps in mind :eekster:
> 
> :thumbsup:


Oh hey you going to Passportes maybe?


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

olijay said:


> Oh hey you going to Passportes maybe?


nah mate, I'm going to Les Arcs, have booked 2 weeks with www.trailAddiction.com they will be taking me down some epic singletrack decents and technical downhill trails. 

have you been to the Alps before? Ive so far only met 1 person who has, he told me he boiled the hydrualic fluid in his brakes on the way down the mountain hahaha... hopefuly I wont be doing that :skep:


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## olijay (Feb 19, 2009)

Haha I heard the exact same story from someone who's been there many times!

No I've never been. I'm going to Passportes in June with a mate, should be pretty awesome, 5 days of riding!

Les Arcs is amazing from what I've heard, at least as good as Portes du Soleil. Only 5 months to go!


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

olijay said:


> Haha I heard the exact same story from someone who's been there many times!
> 
> No I've never been. I'm going to Passportes in June with a mate, should be pretty awesome, 5 days of riding!
> 
> Les Arcs is amazing from what I've heard, at least as good as Portes du Soleil. Only 5 months to go!


haha excellent!

Ive never been to the Alps either, ive booked to go in mid August, only 6 months to go for me  I cant wait, its going to be the best time of my life  Will have to exhange stories when we finish the trips :thumbsup:

I assume you will be taking the lifts/Cable cars up to the top of the mountains? Has your mate been to the Alps before? Your going to have an awesome adventure when your there, there will be soooo many trails you can take down the mountain  the scenery is also going to be amazing, this is one of my favourite videos of the biking in the Alps...


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Awesome ride!


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> haha thats good timing, just as I was looking at buying this:
> 
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49028
> 
> ...


Too funny. I'm sat here in my hotel room, the CRC delivery van showed up during the day and dropped off this bad boy (in white):

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49025

My hotel room review is that it is SICK! :thumbsup: 

Seriously, let's hope it holds up to abuse, but it seems to be one serious piece of quality component, this thing. Just oozes with "I want to ride" out of the box...


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## olijay (Feb 19, 2009)

hexstatic said:


> haha excellent!
> 
> Ive never been to the Alps either, ive booked to go in mid August, only 6 months to go for me  I cant wait, its going to be the best time of my life  Will have to exhange stories when we finish the trips :thumbsup:
> 
> I assume you will be taking the lifts/Cable cars up to the top of the mountains? Has your mate been to the Alps before? Your going to have an awesome adventure when your there, there will be soooo many trails you can take down the mountain  the scenery is also going to be amazing, this is one of my favourite videos of the biking in the Alps...


aaaah crazy video, that trail is so tight and he's going so fast and oh god it's steep to the left 

Looks awesome 

Neither of us has been to the Alps, it'll be amazing and hopefully not once-in-a-lifetime, I'd love to go every year!
We'll probably spend most of our time going between bike parks with uplift, we might hook up with some other people that are going there too, hopefully they can show us the best trails, too. We're both on trail bikes so no crazy jumping or too crazy speeds for us


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Iceman2058 said:


> Too funny. I'm sat here in my hotel room, the CRC delivery van showed up during the day and dropped off this bad boy (in white):
> 
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49025
> 
> ...


wow that saddle looks intense! I really like it !! I never noticed that saddle before on CRC. I love the design. Let me know how it feels when you ride it please :thumbsup:


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

olijay said:


> aaaah crazy video, that trail is so tight and he's going so fast and oh god it's steep to the left
> 
> Looks awesome
> 
> ...


haha yeah, hes going waaaay fast, and if you mess up a little your off down the side of that steep slope !!  very little room for error

I plan to go to the Alps twice per year, but only once this year, im kind of the guinie pig out my friends. Im going this year by myself with TA, and then next year there should be a fair few of us going, hopefuly camping which will save some £££ on hotel/chalet rooms.

youll have good fun on trail bikes, just make sure your brakes up are to the abuse of decending a mountain


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

hexstatic said:


> haha thats good timing, just as I was looking at buying this:
> 
> https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49028
> 
> ...


How bout this:








Selle Italia SLR TT. Similar to those two it has a "generous" shape that's comfortable for DH and kevlar sides but it's lighter.


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

Lelandjt said:


> How bout this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that looks quite nice, not too sure about the gloss finish though.

have you tried it before? I need something that is comfortable and not tooo firm for my a$$


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

It's what I have on my DH bike.








I use the slimmer version on my AM bike. I used to use the Titec Berserker as I like a fairly large, cushy seat for DH. I pinch the seat a lot so a tall side profile in the nose and middle is important. This seat feels as good as the Titec and is a lot lighter. I like the smooth, almost slippery sides. It keeps my shorts from snagging. The black part in the center is kind of tacky and it has kevlar patches on the wings.
It's marketed as a time trial or triathlon seat and I think it was just discontinued but I still see a bunch for sale on Google Shopping. Available in all black as well.
225g if memory serves.


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

hexstatic said:


> wow that saddle looks intense! I really like it !! I never noticed that saddle before on CRC. I love the design. Let me know how it feels when you ride it please :thumbsup:


2 rides in, I'm very pleased. It's quite minimalistic when you first get it out of the box, and it's defintely on the firmer side - but the shape is spot on, so it's been very comfortable so far. Haven't got any epics done on it yet, just a couple of days of "normal" riding (climbing/pushing/descending).

Oh and did I say it looks pretty awesome too...


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## jager7 (Sep 29, 2008)

looking at the rest of your build i figured you woulda gone for the ti spring. Bike looks amazing btw


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## hexstatic (Nov 15, 2010)

jager7 said:


> looking at the rest of your build i figured you woulda gone for the ti spring. Bike looks amazing btw


yeah a Titanium spring is on my list, just waiting a little bit to make sure I have the correct weight spring, Cane Creek gave me a 400lb X 3.00 spring which so far feels lush  things are sooo smooth, am going riding for a full day today, as of yet i havnt tried the bike with the new shock on any downhill trails, have just been sessioning the urban freeride on evenings during the week :thumbsup:


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