# the 75 dollar bike, Yokota Yosemite, and theretical questions



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

Hello all
This is my first post on this forum. I have been browsing it for a while, but just now decided to sign up now that I finally have a bicycle. I have owned bicycles before, but they were usually department store crud and were always breaking down. I didn't know any better, and assumed all bikes were like that. Lately I have been looking around for a bicycle to have that would be quality, to allow me to putter around my some 400 acres of land and get in shape at the same time. Being a really poor guy, I had a heck of a sticker shock when I talked to the bike shop fella. He was trying to sell me on a norco, that cost around 900 dollars. At that point the most expensive bicycle I had ever sat on was a 200 dollar schwinn. So I began looking on craigslist for something... anything quality. That norco that the bike shop guy was trying to sell me had mid level shimano parts on it... something like alivio parts. So looking on craigslist, I found a guy with an old yokota yosemite. Looking up the specs (1993 year) I found the parts were 2 levels above that norco that cost nearly 1000 dollars. the kicker, the yokota is essentially new, like a time machine dropped it off from 1993. The guy had bought it and stuck it in his garage with practically no use. The stickers are still attached to the wheels. He sold it to me for 75 bucks, no hesitation. Still has the original tires... originally white walls but are now yellow walls .

Anyways... enough rambling down to the meat and potatoes.
Did I get a good deal? The bike original cost was 650 dollar in 1993. Adjusted for inflation thats around 1000 dollars today.

What is the quality compared to today? I know technology has changed, and there are lighter, more efficient, smoother bikes out there. Maybe even that norco would have been all that. My sole concern is simple part reliability.

Speaking quality.. here is a theretical question..... Supposing I wanted to buy quality comparable to that yokota yosemite with shimano deore lx parts.... how much would I have to spend ballpark? Disregarding all the newfangled technological improvements. Also I would like to compare the cost, to the original cost of the bike.

On the flip side... this bike is essentially new. What do I need to do to it to make it ride worthy? I am no stranger to fixing bikes... thanks to those crummy bikes I had before. I know some of the obvious such as new tires and tubes, adjust the brakes and shifters, lube chain, adjust seat to fit me.

No fear... pictures are coming as soon as it gets light outside

Thanks all


----------



## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Welcome aboard.

I'm still struggling with the really poor guy who owns ~400 acres, but that's another story, perhaps you just spent every last dime buying said land....

I think, briefly addressing the underlying question, is priorities. I have customers that drive Cadillacs, but balk at spending $15 on a tire for their kids bike when they can "buy a new one at Walmart for twice that", then have other customers that drive clapped out old trucks, but have no issues dropping a few grand on a new ride.

If bombing around you land consists of smooth cruising on forest floor, some dirt paths, etc, you'll do just fine with the bike you bought. A solid deal for sure at $75 too.

If you're not looking to get into MTB as a sport, and ride fast with a bunch of buddies on more technical terrain, again, what you have is fine. 

Looking to do the above, and grow in the sport? A rigid 26" wheeled bike with rim brakes wont be what stops you, but a more modern rig with some suspension up front, better braking power and control from discs, less weight and flats with tubeless, etc etc etc, will certainly make your riding more enjoyable.

And with so many brands, models, levels etc out there (Deore LX doesn't exist anymore) don't get hung up on names etc. Know that spending $500 (MSRP, new) will not get you a bike that will be well suited to regular, heavy use, but spending a grand, and you're into something that will be basic, but solid and pretty dependable, as well as built with actual MTB riding in mind. 

Have fun!


----------



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

MendonCycleSmith said:


> Welcome aboard.
> 
> I'm still struggling with the really poor guy who owns ~400 acres, but that's another story, perhaps you just spent every last dime buying said land....


Well the land has been in my family. But its mostly flat, with hard soil that turns sticky in the rain. Lots of mesquite and some lava rock in patches. But its good livable land, and If I didn't have it I would be up the creek. I make my living off the land.

EDIT
OK i misread it... turns out the rear derailleur is actually a shimano deore DX not an LX. The front is an LX.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Based on age and the "sitting in a garage" for 20 years, I'd think it could use some new grease in the bearings. If you still have one of the old bikes around, practice re-greasing the hubs, bottom bracket, and headset. Youtube videos are awesome for this. Just be careful when you take them out, because the headset and wheels will probably be loose bearings. The hubs will require a spanner wrench (under $10 online). Other than that, the hubs and headset shouldn't need any other specialty tools (big wrench, channel lock pliers, small wrenchs). The bottom bracket will probably be caged, and will require specialty tools (crankarm puller, lockring wrench, pin wrench). If it spins well, use it as is and re-evaluate the need to repack the bearings later on. Might be worth it to have the LBS change it to a square taper cartridge bottom bracket.

Other than that, I'd replace the tires with some big 2.3" tires (if they'd fit in the frame) and possibily replace the brake pads. You can sometimes "rejuvenate" brake pads with a file, but at the end of the day, they are 20 year old chunks of rubber. Probably dry rotted.


----------



## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

Bike looks good, as stated above. Cables look good clean and rust free. If the shifters are sticky others may chime in on a good way to fix them, I just give them a shot of triflow. Maybe new tires and tubes if those are dry rotted, give it a good lube job, brush up the brake pads and have fun! you can always find deferent handlebars, grips, bar-ends and seat that fit your riding style later on.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

handlebar. Just remembered. Is it me, or does the handlebar in the last picture look like it's rotated forward? Somewhat difficult to tell with straight bars.


----------



## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

watts888 said:


> handlebar. Just remembered. Is it me, or does the handlebar in the last picture look like it's rotated forward? Somewhat difficult to tell with straight bars.


yes looks rotated.


----------



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

some more pictures... this time about the handlebar as some people commented that it looked odd. Yeah I would say so.... just about everything on this bike is loose. Its like in 1993 they didn't bother to tighten anything at all :eekster:.


----------



## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

Last picture make it just look out and out bent. But that is a nice pick up for $75 and will give you many pleasant miles. Enjoy!!


----------



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

all the stuff on the handlebars and the bar itself i can turn easily by hand. The two brake levers are off and flopping around, the bar is too far in one direction. As for it being bent.... its supposed to be a sort of swept looking bar, not perfectly straight.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It's rotated. Maybe the original owner liked the feel of the bars like that. No set rule for how you have to set up the bike, other than setting it up how you want it. Well, there is the rule about wheels needing to be on the ground, and it is advised to use a seat, but everything else is optional. 

Also looks like one of the shifters/brakes was replaced. Either way, I'm sure it'll be a learning experience.


----------



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

isnt the handlebar supposed to be swept up and back in line with the front fork?


EDITEDITEDIT
So I had my first malfunction. This one I entirely blame on me. I was not sure how the seat adjustment clamp was supposed to work and I forced it.... breaking it. Yay me :madman:.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

mcpobr44 said:


> isnt the handlebar supposed to be swept up and back in line with the front fork?
> 
> EDITEDITEDIT
> So I had my first malfunction. This one I entirely blame on me. I was not sure how the seat adjustment clamp was supposed to work and I forced it.... breaking it. Yay me :madman:.


handlebar should be up and back. It's really a trial by error till you find a hand position you like.

Time to change the thread's name to $85 bike?


----------



## veloborealis (Oct 25, 2009)

Welcome mcpobr44! I think you got a good deal on a bike that is just about perfect for your intended use. The components on your bike are pretty tough and reliable and should give you years more service if they are in the like new condition you describe. The only parts I would be concerned about have already been mentioned: tires, brake pads, cables, cable housing, all of which can deteriorate over time. Also, check the condition of the grease in all the bearings.

If everything works, just ride it until something breaks or needs adjustment. When/if it does, invest in a set of basic tools and learn how to do your own maintenance. It's not difficult and there are many resources available to you, here on mtbr and elsewhere online. If you fall in love with cycling somewhere down the line, as many of us here have, you can upgrade to a better bike when you are ready to appreciate (and pay for) higher quality and newer technology. There have been a lot of innovations in the 22 years since your Yakota was made that make newer bikes perform better, more comfortable, more reliable, and easier to maintain. 

To take advantage of some of these improvements, expect to pay at least $700-$1000 for a reliable bike, maybe a bit more for a bike with a good suspension fork. Suspension on cheaper bikes leaves a lot to be desired.


----------



## mcpobr44 (Sep 14, 2015)

So I went to the LBS(the one who wanted to sell me the norco). I explained to him why I picked a 75 dollar craigslist bike over his bike and he was cool with it. Because of the effort he went into telling me about bicycles and what to look for, I told him I would buy all my needed bicycle stuff from him. Essentially he put in the time, now he is going to get paid. Its good business. Well he quoted me 10-30 dollars depending on the size of the clamp for the seat. He wants to see the bike, to make absolutely sure he gets the right one. I had brought the old clamp but it was so toast he couldn't get a good size off it. I can't believe that bike sat for 22 years unharmed, then dumbo me comes along and breaks it in the first 5 minutes. Well anyways...... as for the other stuff on the bike. All the cables work great with no binding and not a hint of corrosion. The brakes are defiantly original and old, but they still work and I will continue using them until they fall apart. Because I am not doing anything that would really put me in danger if the brakes fail, I am OK with that. The tires tell their age, but they are not ripping up falling apart yet so Ill use them until they do. Same for the tubes. So now my only issues are

#1 Adjust brakes and shifters
#2 lube 
#3 Seat clamp replacement
#4 Adjust bicycle to fit ME
#5 Ride


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Getting a relationship with an LBS is a good thing. I'd go ahead and order tires and tubes that will work better with the stuff you're going to ride. Just in principle, because something with those tires or tubes will fail. If you get new brakes, look for some called kool stop salmons. There are others that are good, but the kool stops seem to be the best for the money.


----------



## colker1 (Jan 6, 2004)

mcpobr44 said:


> So I went to the LBS(the one who wanted to sell me the norco). I explained to him why I picked a 75 dollar craigslist bike over his bike and he was cool with it. Because of the effort he went into telling me about bicycles and what to look for, I told him I would buy all my needed bicycle stuff from him. Essentially he put in the time, now he is going to get paid. Its good business. Well he quoted me 10-30 dollars depending on the size of the clamp for the seat. He wants to see the bike, to make absolutely sure he gets the right one. I had brought the old clamp but it was so toast he couldn't get a good size off it. I can't believe that bike sat for 22 years unharmed, then dumbo me comes along and breaks it in the first 5 minutes. Well anyways...... as for the other stuff on the bike. All the cables work great with no binding and not a hint of corrosion. The brakes are defiantly original and old, but they still work and I will continue using them until they fall apart. Because I am not doing anything that would really put me in danger if the brakes fail, I am OK with that. The tires tell their age, but they are not ripping up falling apart yet so Ill use them until they do. Same for the tubes. So now my only issues are
> 
> #1 Adjust brakes and shifters
> #2 lube
> ...


Good karma alert.


----------

