# Fixing a flat with a IGH belt drive bike?



## OldAusDigger (Apr 8, 2008)

I'm considering buying a Specialized Source 11. But the guys at the bike shop reckon it's a pain to get the rear wheel off.
What's the truth here?

Thanks,

Digger.

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

Bull ****.

To remove a belted Alfine wheel:

1) Shift so that the cable is as slack as it knows how to be. For an 8 that means easiest gear. For 11 I think it's the opposite.
2) Use your thumb to forcefully rotate the shift actuator on the hub. You need to find a comfortable spot to push on, and even then it might leave a dent in your thumb for 20 seconds.
3) Finagle the cable end out of the shift actuator. After you do it a handful of times, it is easy.
4) Take the ****ing wheel out, move it a bit forward to slacken the belt.
5) Take the belt off the cog. HOLY ****.
6) Fix your flat, then reverse these steps.


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

One other note - do not let the Alfine shift cable end fray. Getting your hands into a spot with a bunch of pointy steel wires poking you isn't fun.


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## evrac (Sep 28, 2005)

The 11 spd hub actually has a nice new little knob to help rotate the cassette joint, making it even easier.

I had a hack LBS salesman try to tell me that was why they didn't have any internal hub bikes, eg., they were so much harder to fix a flat. What a dufus.


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## Corporal Punishment (May 26, 2011)

I fixed a flat yesterday during a group ride on my A8 and the whole group was watching in fascination as I put the wheel back on. LOL

But seriously, why would any bike store try to turn someone away from the sale of a fairly expensive bike, no matter what the fuss over any aspect of it? Personally, I think its more of a pain to put the wheel back on a derailleur bike than an alfine wheel. I run magic gear so its basically the same as the belt drive in getting the chain/belt on or off the cog.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

In a lot of cases there is no reason to remove a wheel to repair a flat. You can save yourself a lot of hassle by simply leaving the wheel on and peeling off 1 bead. Patching the tire and getting on with your ride.


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## OldAusDigger (Apr 8, 2008)

Thanks for all the input.
All of you just helped get rid of any last niggling doubt that I had about IGH's :thumbsup:


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

One more thing to note. If your shop is discouraging you from buying the bike, they might not familiar with the hub. Read the manual of the hub, particularly, the part about getting the shift cable set up right. You have to be in a certain gear and line up two indicators with each other (it's 4th for an Alfine 8, I think 6th for an Alfine 11?).

If they're even a little bit off, shifting will be weird.


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## canyoneagle (Sep 27, 2007)

I use an old spoke cut to about 6" long for any of my Alfine 8's - there is a hole on the cassette joint that allows you to insert a 2mm spoke/allen key, making the rotation of the assembly super simple.

Once you get the hang of it, it is extremely quick and simple - just different from a conventional drive train. It takes no more than 5-10 seconds to remove the cable, 2-3 seconds with the "helper" spoke - about the same to re-install once the wheel is on.


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## JUNGLEKID5 (May 1, 2006)

sick thanks guys.. and to the op that is a sick bike go for it...


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## mjduct (Jul 31, 2012)

it's pretty easy, just make sure you have the right tool to get the wheel off, (no quick release) I carry one of these on my alfine bike


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## Corporal Punishment (May 26, 2011)

I'll match your park and raise you one portland design wrencho. ;-)


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## Drew Diller (Jan 4, 2010)

Corporal Punishment said:


> I'll match your park and raise you one portland design wrencho. ;-)


Hey, that's slick. Thanks for parting me with a 20 spot...


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## Corporal Punishment (May 26, 2011)

There's no bottle opener, but its very compact.


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## kustomz (Jan 6, 2004)

Nice bike! If it were spec'd with a carbon fork and cost 500 less, it would be on my short list.


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