# Bottom Bracket Seized in Steel Frame



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Old 90's Marin Team Marin. 

Aluminum (I'm guessing) BB cups have seized inside the steel frame. This BB was an old one, early 90's, where the bearings were pressed into the cups, then the cups (from both side) were threaded into the frame. The axle was magically held in...somehow

Tried removing them with a torch, penetrating lube, and a wrench (35mm), and they just disintegrated. 

The cup threads are left inside the shell, and the bearings are not exposed enough to remove. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

did you manage to remove one cup? any pictures?


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Nope, the exposed part of the cup (that has the 35mm flat sides but not hex) disintegrated. Neither cup has been removed, one side is just in better condition than the other.


----------



## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

will you consider a destructive way of removing it? i had luck before using a dremel, cut a slit on the cup enough that you can use an old screwdriver to rotate the cup out with a hammer.


----------



## hollister (Sep 16, 2005)

fishcreek said:


> will you consider a destructive way of removing it? i had luck before using a dremel, cut a slit on the cup enough that you can use an old screwdriver to rotate the cup out with a hammer.


sounds like its already toast

if all else fails get a hacksaw, a hammer, a small punch, and a steady hand. cut it, collapse it in on itself, and clean the threads


----------



## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

This sounds pretty serious. Usually these type of BB spindles have either lockrings in the middle or are machined down at the ends for the bearing. 

My only idea is maybe to remove enough of the inner portion of the cup so that the bearing would be exposed and hence tap it and the spindle out from the opposite side. Then of course both cups still have to be removed, but if they're aluminum as you say then slowly cutting through them in half shouldn't be that difficult, hopefully.


----------



## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

A picture would help a lot.


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

I'll snag a picture and get it up in a few minutes.

I'd really like to fix this, because its my commuter and just got $80 in parts coming to further the conversion. Negative rise stem, cruiser tires, keeping gears, new chain, fenders and racks. 

Guess a new BB is in order as well.


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Posted pics, any suggestions?


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

hollister said:


> sounds like its already toast
> 
> if all else fails get a hacksaw, a hammer, a small punch, and a steady hand. cut it, collapse it in on itself, and clean the threads


This


----------



## StanleyButterfly (Nov 4, 2009)

Is it rusted through on your non drive side chainstay?

https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments...ottom-bracket-seized-steel-frame-100_0509.jpg


----------



## H_Tuttle (Feb 27, 2007)

is the black part a threaded lock ring?

I am not seeing a mechanical way to grasp the ring or the drive side,
no flats or pin tool ports...

would this have been installed with locktite?

have you used a heat gun on it?


----------



## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

H_Tuttle said:


> is the black part a threaded lock ring?


That's what it looks like to me as well. The non-drive side appears to have a lock-ring, and appears that the drive-side has had the lock-ring broken off. If it is a lock-ring, the drive-side is going to take a lot of work to remove it. The hammer, punch, and chisel method mentioned above is likely the best method.


----------



## H_Tuttle (Feb 27, 2007)

RIF



so it was a 35 MM lock ring and a torch has already been applied...

some of the early sealed bearing BBs were not engineered for the abuse of the installed location

I still like loose bearings and cups


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

H_Tuttle said:


> some of the early sealed bearing BBs were not engineered for the abuse of the installed location


Oh?


----------



## H_Tuttle (Feb 27, 2007)

a yep, sealed does not mean maintenance free 

A regular BB is pretty easy to service
and the new bearings were right in the red ketchup dispenser bottle on the bench


----------



## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

This BB is/was a White Industries that suffered the same fate as the OPs. It was removed from the Merlin frame with the hacksaw, hammer, and punch method sucessfully.


----------



## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

Late to the party, but this guys (Efficient Velo Tools) tools are amazing. Assuming it is threaded, this should help tremendously, if it isn't already out......

Evt Bb Fixed Cup Tool


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

Already out...in pieces. 

I'll chase the treads and install a conventional cheapo sealed BB. 

Any ideas how wide?


----------



## PaintPeelinPbody (Feb 3, 2004)

StanleyButterfly said:


> Is it rusted through on your non drive side chainstay?


No, thats just some surface rust. That reminds me to buy a can of frame-saver for this bike, my steel 29er, and my classic Razesa.


----------



## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

PaintPeelinPbody said:


> Already out...in pieces.
> 
> I'll chase the treads and install a conventional cheapo sealed BB.
> 
> Any ideas how wide?


The same width as the one it's replacing?


----------



## rev106 (Jul 9, 2009)

you may be able to use one of these:


----------



## YETIFIED (May 4, 2005)

PaintPeelinPbody said:


> Already out...in pieces.


Do tell, how'd you finally get it all out?


----------



## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

rev106 said:


> you may be able to use one of these:


 That frame looks suspiciously like a 1988 Rockhopper Comp. I cracked the chainstay on mine, but sure loved that thing.

OP, glad to hear you got it out!


----------



## rev106 (Jul 9, 2009)

It was caked in gold spray paint when I got it, hard to tell...


----------

