# Spray wd40



## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

I saw YouTube video of a guy who spray wd40 on the stanchion of fork to make it slicker.

Is it safe to spray the fork with wd40 to make it respond a bit faster? 

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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

WD40 is not a lube, it is a degreaser, use a silicon spry.


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Davide said:


> WD40 is not a lube, use a silicon spry.


Is it safe to spray on fork stanchion?

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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

I've always had good results with a few squirts PAM Cooking Spray.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

My bikes prefer KY


Cornfield said:


> I've always had good results with a few squirts PAM Cooking Spray.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

sito40 said:


> Is it safe to spray on fork stanchion?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


Unclear if it will actually do damage to the seals.If anything it would protect the stanchions from rust, that is why it might be used on the upper crown part of motorcycles forks. But it is of no use for our forks.

Clean the stanchions with water and a rag (do not spray water), and then use a silicon spray or even better a stanchion lube that avoids spraying your brake rotor by mistake! Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Max™ Suspension Spray


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## j102 (Jan 14, 2018)

Besides the regular degreaser, WD40 has a line of bike products now, including a bike wash, grease and chain lube.


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

jcd46 said:


> My bikes prefer KY


I tried that stuff, my stanchions got so hot from friction and burned it off, I needed something that would withstand higher temps.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

It's also worth noting that this isn't going to make a notable difference if you have a shitty fork.

And it very well might cause problems for the seals if you have a good fork. You're better off using a product designed for the purpose.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

sito40 said:


> Is it safe to spray on fork stanchion?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


WD40 is also better for your car's engine than motor oil. I would change over as soon as possible.


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## azimiut (Feb 21, 2014)

cant beat a good blob of crisco on everything.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

You don't need to spray anything on your stanchions.

Wd40 is a very thin oil (like 0w20 engine oil) thinned down even more with basically kerosene. It is a lubricant, it's just ultra thin. Oil dissolves grease really well, as does kerosene, so that's why it cleans so we'll. It's not a degreaser in the sense of simple green or anything.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

WD40 is not a lubricant or a degreaser. It's a water displacement formula. Even the name stands for that. If you spray it on your stanchions as a lubricant all you're doing is adding a dirt attractant which will kill your stanchions and it will also dry out your seals.

Word of advice: Stand back from the WD40 for the above mentioned purpose. In fact don't spray or squirt any type of lubricating liquid [or thought to be] on your stanchions.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

WD-38 might work better but it never made it to market.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

If you’re having stiction issues you need to do a lower leg service. Anything you could spray on them is not a solution that will last more than a mile of your ride.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

C-H said:


> WD-38 might work better but it never made it to market.


 Many believe this to be Urban Legend.


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## MikeDee (Nov 17, 2004)

Davide said:


> WD40 is not a lube, it is a degreaser, use a silicon spry.


This is one of the most often repeated myths that never seems to die. It IS a lubricant. It's a light lubricant because it contains a light oil.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

It may *say* it's a lube. Like it *says* it's a penetrant. *Saying* doesn't mean it's a *good* lube or penetrant. Just about any other product is a better choice.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

^^ It is a bit of a lubricate but not recommended long term because its other additives cause it to dry out over time (self employed garage door tech) More to its name as a water displacement and a rust preventative because of the light oil.

Any way, one must be careful with WD-40 because it can cause issues with some rubber materials. (re:seals) I clean my stanchions with a micro fiber cloth with WD and then wipe with silicone and then spray a little silicone on the seals and let it sit until I ride.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

eb1888 said:


> It may *say* it's a lube. Like it *says* it's a penetrant. *Saying* doesn't mean it's a *good* lube or penetrant. Just about any other product is a better choice.


This. It's a pretty much outdated product.


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## Sideknob (Jul 14, 2005)

Wet lubes attract dust and grit. 

If you want to lube your stanchions, CLEAN them first and a light wipe over with a dry Teflon wax chain lube is the go, IMO. It mostly gets wiped away by the wipers in a second or two anyway.


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## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

MikeDee said:


> This is one of the most often repeated myths that never seems to die. It IS a lubricant. It's a light lubricant because it contains a light oil.


Well yes, but don't use it to lubricate ... anything! Really! People call it a "degreaser" because it is great to clean parts that are lubricated with heavy oil or "real" grease. But again, as a lubricant I cannot really think about one application in which it could be used ... maybe to clean uncoated shifter cables?


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## tealy (Mar 7, 2013)

okay


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Aren't those wiper seals on the fork legs supposed to lube the stanchions?


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Amazing, simply amazing.

Really, WD40 was a ground breaking product. Still is, does it lubricate? Maybe for a very short time. Not worth using it for that purpose. it will do more harm than good. Plus it dries out any rubber. What seals your stancions from grime in or oil out? Seals made out of rubber.

What WD40 does do well is disperse water. I rode standup jet skis for 12 years. We used to do freestyle tricks that involved submerging the jet ski completely under water over and over and over during an outing. We had bilge pumps to pump the water out of the hull of the ski to keep it from sinking. But the motors would get completely filled with water. Nothing to get the water out other than making it to the surface in time and keeping the motor running, burning [evaporating under heat and pressure] the water out of the cylinders before the motor died. Once this happened [the motor dying] you were screwed. Your only choice was to limp the ski to shore as quick as possible to work on it.

Once on shore guess what the miracle product was that made it possible to continue your day out with some more riding? >> WD40

I saved many a clueless amateur fellow Jet Skiers with this product and got them up and running for the remainder of their day.

We removed the spark plugs [to prevent hydro locking the motor] and turned the motor over which spewed out as much water as possible. We then would spray WD40 into the cylinder and in the spark plug holes. At this point the pistons were spitting out the remaining water as well as the WD40. After a couple of repeated performances and satisfied at no more liquid spitting out of the spark plug holes, because the WD40 dispersed the water. And hoping the battery still had enough juice,  we would then spray WD40 on the plugs and reinstall them. One blip of the start button and the motor would fire up. Why? Because the WD40 dispersed the water out of the motor and corrected the problem. The miracle product it was initially designed to do. Many uses have been claimed for it since it's invention in 1953, San Diego. Some good and some not so good. Using it as a lubrication, not so good.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

tealy said:


> Best use for WD-40 is to spray it in your eyes when you see a mountain biker wearing carpris and a fanny pack.


What are "carpris", pray tell?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

sito40 said:


> I saw YouTube video of a guy who spray wd40 on the stanchion of fork to make it slicker.
> 
> Is it safe to spray the fork with wd40 to make it respond a bit faster?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


Link to video? That's a truly idiotic way to ruin a fork .


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## RonSonic (Jan 8, 2005)

C-H said:


> WD-38 might work better but it never made it to market.


WD-41 was suppressed by the by the bearing consortium because it worked so well everything lasted forever and didn't need to be replaced.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Amazing, simply amazing.
> 
> Really, WD40 was a ground breaking product. Still is, does it lubricate? Maybe for a very short time. Not worth using it for that purpose. it will do more harm than good. Plus it dries out any rubber. What seals your stancions from grime in or oil out? Seals made out of rubber.
> 
> ...


I hope you had some sweet oakley blades to wear when riding that jetski.


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## Thrashbarg (Mar 28, 2017)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Really, WD40 was a ground breaking product. Still is...
> 
> ... since it's invention in 1953, San Diego.


There's gotta be a statute of limitations on how long something can be considered ground breaking.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Jayem said:


> I hope you had some sweet oakley blades to wear when riding that jetski.


Seriously? The blades were worn on the beach. For standup freestyle riding you need something that floats and is impact resistant, strapped tight to your head. I was under the water as much as on top.











Thrashbarg said:


> There's gotta be a statute of limitations on how long something can be considered ground breaking.


There is, hence the word "was" in my sentence. The following "still is" refers to once something is considered ground breaking it will always have that to fall back on. Is there a current more modern product that has duplicated what WD40 did?


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## Grassington (Jun 24, 2017)

Stiction really stuffs the small bump compliance on a fork (and to a much lesser degree a rear shock), and though most of the stiction comes from the rubber seals on the air piston, the wiper seals also make a noticeable contribution. I used to spray silicone stanchion lube on my fork, shock and dropper post stanchions until a couple of respected mtbr members pointed out that the solvent can dry the seals out. After that I switched to spraying a bit of silicone stanchion lube on a rolled-up kitchen towel and just rubbed this on the stanchions.

Then one day I had a brainwave. I have a love/hate relationship with silicone products: they invariably work well, but they can be evil contaminants and often don't play nicely with other lubes and fluids, so I got to wondering what else might work. As an alternative I thought I'd try smearing a bit of SRAM (Rockshox) Butter on my stanchions. It works an absolute treat (much better than silicone, which itself is much better than nothing), and has brought my seal stiction right down. SRAM Butter is expensive, but it only takes a thin smear to work well and a little pot will last for ages. It does have a strong greasy stink to it though, so I've latterly taken to wearing a nitrile glove instead of smearing it on with bare fingertips. After a ride I wipe down the stanchions with a paper towel before applying fresh Butter. The best bit is that SRAM butter (or similar) is used inside the fork/shock/dropper anyway, so no compatibility issues if it works its way past the seals.

The one downside is that I feel like a complete idiot for not working this out years ago. With hindsight, it should have been obvious to me that the grease that's used inside the fork might also work rather well as an external stanchion lube. Doh!

If you want to go the whole hog then aftermarket low-friction fork seals are available too (https://www.tftuned.com/tf-low-friction-wiper-seal-kits/p2929).


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## azimiut (Feb 21, 2014)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> View attachment 1203975
> 
> 
> View attachment 1203976


I see these







being worn while riding that

I still suggest crisco. And if that isn't available go get some duck fat.


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

azimiut said:


> I see these
> 
> being worn while riding that


Yep, with some Croakies to keep them on!


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## David R (Dec 21, 2007)

I think the sliding bits [fork, post and shock] are the only parts of my bike I don't spray WD40 on! Well, rotors and grips too obviously....


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I like almond butter. It sticks better.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Grassington said:


> Stiction really stuffs the small bump compliance on a fork (and to a much lesser degree a rear shock), and though most of the stiction comes from the rubber seals on the air piston, the wiper seals also make a noticeable contribution. I used to spray silicone stanchion lube on my fork, shock and dropper post stanchions until a couple of respected mtbr members pointed out that the solvent can dry the seals out. After that I switched to spraying a bit of silicone stanchion lube on a rolled-up kitchen towel and just rubbed this on the stanchions.
> 
> Then one day I had a brainwave. I have a love/hate relationship with silicone products: they invariably work well, but they can be evil contaminants and often don't play nicely with other lubes and fluids, so I got to wondering what else might work. As an alternative I thought I'd try smearing a bit of SRAM (Rockshox) Butter on my stanchions. It works an absolute treat (much better than silicone, which itself is much better than nothing), and has brought my seal stiction right down. SRAM Butter is expensive, but it only takes a thin smear to work well and a little pot will last for ages. It does have a strong greasy stink to it though, so I've latterly taken to wearing a nitrile glove instead of smearing it on with bare fingertips. After a ride I wipe down the stanchions with a paper towel before applying fresh Butter. The best bit is that SRAM butter (or similar) is used inside the fork/shock/dropper anyway, so no compatibility issues if it works its way past the seals.
> 
> ...


I bet that a lot of this 'stiction' people talk about really is a side effect of a badly balanced air spring. Insufficient pressure in the negative spring results in a high break away force at the top of the stroke.
As an example;
Take your bike and just drop the front end (or the complete bike) from a foot or two.
With a good suspension setup the bike should not bounce on the tires, it should just land with a thud and no bouncing.
I doubt that the minimal force required to move an seal up and down the stanchion has any real impact. Just think of the forces in motion when riding.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Coconut oil.
Fixes everything. Put a dab in your nose, feels better. Sore throat? Gargle it.
My wife put some in her special spot because it was sore, and 9 months later a baby came out. It's a magical product


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## bamwa (Mar 15, 2010)

JB Weld is also a groundbreaking product that should be used on cracked bike frames handlebars and other broken metallic or plastic parts. Between JB Weld and WD-40 my steed has been my rig for decades.


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

bamwa said:


> JB Weld is also a groundbreaking product that should be used on cracked bike frames handlebars and other broken metallic or plastic parts. Between JB Weld and WD-40 my steed has been my rig for decades.


What about Duct Tape and Vice Grips?


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

Cornfield said:


> What about Duct Tape and Vice Grips?


And Bondo, don't forget the Bondo. You can sand it later.


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)

chazpat said:


> And Bondo, don't forget the Bondo. You can sand it later.


Bondoooo!

Pro Tip: You can use Zip Ties to keep Duct Tape from unraveling in some situations.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Cornfield said:


> Bondoooo!
> 
> Pro Tip: You can use Zip Ties to keep Duct Tape from unraveling in some situations.


Pro tip: Zip Ties along with a cordless drill works great to sew a plastic MX rear fender back together after a nasty endo somewhere in the Imperial Sand Dunes of California.


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## azimiut (Feb 21, 2014)

Zip ties are also very entertaining to put onto your buddies driveshaft. 

You can clean your toilet with WD40.


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## JackWare (Aug 8, 2016)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> Seriously? The blades were worn on the beach. For standup freestyle riding you need something that floats and is impact resistant, strapped tight to your head. I was under the water as much as on top.
> 
> View attachment 1204047


Presumably with a spray of WD40 inside to stop them fogging?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

classic WD-40 has very, very few practical uses on a bicycle. WD-40 on a modern fork will certainly shorten the life of the fork.



David R said:


> I think the sliding bits [fork, post and shock] are the only parts of my bike I don't spray WD40 on! Well, rotors and grips too obviously....


actually, WD-40 is great for installing rubber grips. no joke. it helps them slide on with ease and they stick like they're glued on after they dry. I got that tip from Empire BMX, and if anyone knows a thing or two about installing rubber grips, it's a BMX-exclusive shop.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

For any of you doubting that WD40 was a groundbreaking product. Here's 2000 plus uses that consumers swear it does. Not all recommended as all uses have not been tested, but it gives credit to how amazing this product is.

Someone at my work printed this up a couple of years ago and hung it up. Take it with a grain of salt on the credibility of all these uses but many do work.

There are 10 pages on this site. I've only got time and patience to post up half. Here's 5 out of 10 pages of uses from this site.

https://www.wd40.com/img/WD-40_2000_uses.pdf


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> There are 10 pages on this site. I've only got time and patience to post up half. Here's 5 out of 10 pages of uses from this site.


I guess huffing must be on one of the next 5 pages.


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## Cornfield (Apr 15, 2012)




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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Cornfield said:


>


Now that's funny.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

J.B. Weld said:


> I guess huffing must be on one of the next 5 pages.


Maybe, no patience to look. Be my guest unless you're dizzy from huffing to look. By all means get some rest first before attempting.


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## 786737 (Mar 13, 2015)

J.B. Weld said:


> I guess huffing must be on one of the next 5 pages.


And defogging goggles.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Oh sure, shoot the messenger.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

eb1888 said:


> It may *say* it's a lube. Like it *says* it's a penetrant. *Saying* doesn't mean it's a *good* lube or penetrant. Just about any other product is a better choice.


Good marketing dept! (just like bose)


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Shark said:


> Good marketing dept! (just like bose)


Elaborate on Bose marketing, please.


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## Crankout (Jun 16, 2010)

I've missed Picard.


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## Crankout (Jun 16, 2010)

A few things...you can never apply too much WD40 to your drivetrain.

Also, at 2'50", the fun begins...


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## twd953 (Aug 21, 2008)

J.B. Weld said:


> I guess huffing must be on one of the next 5 pages.


Well, if they put it right there on page 1, nobody would ever get to pages 2 through 10 now would they? Gotta be on the bottom of page 10.


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## telemike (Jun 20, 2011)

After I wash my bike or come in from a really wet ride, I wipe the chain with a couple of paper towels. Then, I spray it liberally with WD 40 and wipe clean again. After blowing the chain thoroughly with compressed air, I leave it to evaporate the WD 40 residue and put on chain lube. I'm using the WD 40 to displace water from the chain and it works quite well.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

The fork should have a bit of oil in it....flip it upside down for a couple of minutes before your ride so the wipers and seals get a good soaking from the inside. I wouldn't use anything on my suspension that wasn't designed for suspension applications. 

WD40 is awsome for cleaning the crud from your cassette and jockey wheels....not sure I'd use it anywhere else on my bike.


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## kpdemello (May 3, 2010)

I saw on GMBN that Doddy used WD40 after a wet ride to clear mud and debris from around the pivots of his full suspension mountain bike. Seems like a great solution, get all the water out of there before it makes it into your pivot bearings. I've started doing that myself.

Only other places I use it is to clean out bearings when I service them and before I re-grease them, and to clean the drive train after a wet ride. Pretty useful for that stuff.

As for shock stanchions, I don't do anything except keep them clean, and make sure to service the fork lowers regularly. Keeping the foam rings in there soaked with oil will do a lot more, I think, to keep your fork in good working condition than smearing **** on your stanchions. That just seems like a way to attract dirt and debris.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

kpdemello said:


> I saw on GMBN that Doddy used WD40 after a wet ride to clear mud and debris from around the pivots of his full suspension mountain bike. Seems like a great solution, get all the water out of there before it makes it into your pivot bearings. I've started doing that myself.
> 
> Only other places I use it is to clean out bearings when I service them and before I re-grease them, and to clean the drive train after a wet ride. Pretty useful for that stuff.
> 
> As for shock stanchions, I don't do anything except keep them clean, and make sure to service the fork lowers regularly. Keeping the foam rings in there soaked with oil will do a lot more, I think, to keep your fork in good working condition than smearing **** on your stanchions. That just seems like a way to attract dirt and debris.


I guess I'd just be wary of spraying the stuff and having it get trapped in a part and then degrading an actual lube added after the fact. I'd never want it getting in the rollers on my chain, for example. Cleaning a bearing that you will have open and re-grease does make good sense.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

^

racing motorcycles I once cleaned some mung off my rear sprocket and some wd-40 just dripped down and onto axle...and over the bearing...

bearing overheated and destroyed itself in 3 laps at louden. it was a brand new rear wheel setup too. just wanted to get some melted tar-snake off the sprocket and thought wd-40 would be good. 

keep wd-40 far away from anything you want actually lubricated by oil or grease. it renders grease and oil unable to perform


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

It safe to spray Wd40 on Shimano clipless pedals? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

sito40 said:


> It safe to spray Wd40 on Shimano clipless pedals?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


Safe, but worthless. Too light, like you, Ritard.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

sito40 said:


> It safe to spray Wd40 on Shimano clipless pedals?


why would you do that when there are dozens of other lubricants that will do the same thing better?


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Wd40 has almost no place near a bicycle except wiping the frame down so mud doesnt stick. That's about it. Works for cleaning grease out of bearings but not a great idea because new grease will be affected.

Spraying it on your clipless cleats and pedals (not in any bearings) is good protection just prior to riding in crap conditions aka mud and such. Will make cleaning easier at the end of the ride but that's it. It will break down and will not lube anything that moves for more than a few movements.

WD40 is actually a light duty lube as well. Use it for machining/drilling and tapping aluminum as it's literally the best thing for dealing with aluminum in that manner. I'm not quite sure WHY but I've tried even expensive stuff and friends have said wd40. Went that route and it's great. Only time it's been good for a useable lube.

As for OPs question, HELL NO. Will make matters worse not better. Sram butter (slick honey, same thing) is amazing stuff for a bike lube. Pull the lowers and pack under the wiper seal (no the wiper itself does NOT provide lube, it's to wipe the stanchions to keep dirt and such out) with it. Wipe the stanchions with it as well and reassemble. Compress a few times, wipe off access and thank us later 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

sito40 said:


> It safe to spray Wd40 on Shimano clipless pedals?


WD-40 is a pretty decent cleaner/light lube, works fine for spd pedals IME.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

127.0.0.1 said:


> ^
> 
> racing motorcycles I once cleaned some mung off my rear sprocket and some wd-40 just dripped down and onto axle...and over the bearing...
> 
> ...


Yep, few listen though. Scroll up this thread for some amazing lubrication ideas with WD40. ut:

I'm amazed some of them made it this far in life without WD40 used as an alternate motor oil.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^I like WD-40 on my spd spings. Haven't come across anything that works better in 25 years or so. I hate alkanes though.

Love these threads...your wrong, no you're wrong.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

J.B. Weld said:


> WD-40 is a pretty decent cleaner/light lube, works fine for spd pedals IME.


Huh. I always thought it would be too light and be gone in a matter of minutes. That's why I use red Loctite.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Finch Platte said:


> Huh. I always thought it would be too light and be gone in a matter of minutes. That's why I use red Loctite.


That would be a good prank. Fill your buddies lube container with some 277.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

RAKC Ind said:


> Pull the lowers and pack under the wiper seal (no the wiper itself does NOT provide lube, it's to wipe the stanchions to keep dirt and such out) with it.


My bad...inverting the bike pre-ride lets the lube soak the foam rings, not the wipers.

I also got in the habit of inverting the bike to wipe the stanchions...cycle the fork the first inch of it's stroke to push the dirt down away from the seal before wiping it. Too easy to just push dirt into places when "cleaning" the bike.

Pretty sure you never have to worry about the OP pulling his fork apart.


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## knutso (Oct 8, 2008)

CK recommends WD40 to clean hub bearings before relubing.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

knutso said:


> CK recommends WD40 to clean hub bearings before relubing.


"To clean" then re-lube with a real lubricant.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

MOJO K said:


> My bad...inverting the bike pre-ride lets the lube soak the foam rings, not the wipers.
> 
> I also got in the habit of inverting the bike to wipe the stanchions...cycle the fork the first inch of it's stroke to push the dirt down away from the seal before wiping it. Too easy to just push dirt into places when "cleaning" the bike.
> 
> Pretty sure you never have to worry about the OP doing **** to his bike.


fify.

Fukcing Ritard.


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

I don’t want to be the one who chases him away. He was , in a peculiar way, kind of missed last time.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

MOJO K said:


> I don't want to be the one who chases him away. He was , in a peculiar way, kind of missed last time.


Seriously? Why?


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## MOJO K (Jan 26, 2007)

Finch Platte said:


> Seriously? Why?


I get sentimental when Im drinking?

I don't have an answer really.


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Finch Platte said:


> fify.
> 
> Fukcing Ritard.


Fuking moron

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


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## chuckha62 (Jul 11, 2006)

Can ya feel the love?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*I should get a life...*

15 amazing ways to use WD-40 that probably never occurred to you


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

Cleared2land said:


> 15 amazing ways to use WD-40 that probably never occurred to you


Seriously? Telling people to spray oil into their toilets?

That's effed up.


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