# New Orbea Rise owners, any mods in the works? Pretty damn solid outta da box!



## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

So, my M10 should hit in 4 days. Gonna put the 2.4 Dissector on the rear and ordered a 2.6 for the front. New Fox transfer 200mm dropper, Renthal Fatbar and my Ergon seat. Ready to rip. Also ordered the battery extender, but had to have it shipped to a bike shop! Oh well, super excited for this bike although my Decoy is an awesome bicycle. Gonna try and shed a few beers off on the Rise.


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## jim0905 (May 23, 2017)

Got mine the other Friday, changed the saddle and grips straight away. Was hoping to put my SC Reserves on there, which have an Assegai and Dissector on but forgot about the torque caps. Got some new end caps on order with the UK distributor but god knows how long they'll take to arrive


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Now way!!! So you guys getting yours already? Where did you order? I had a friend order one from Jenson on the first day available and they said November, now December.

I'm trying to get a test bike but that is in short supply too. I've been riding the Santa Cruz Bullit and have about 20 rides on that EP8 motor. Really amazing motor. The bike is crazy good. too. The crank/motor rattles on all descents so I hope they fix that in your EP8 versions.


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## jim0905 (May 23, 2017)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Now way!!! So you guys getting yours already? Where did you order? I had a friend order one from Jenson on the first day available and they said November, now December.
> 
> I'm trying to get a test bike but that is in short supply too. I've been riding the Santa Cruz Bullit and have about 20 rides on that EP8 motor. Really amazing motor. The bike is crazy good. too. The crank/motor rattles on all descents so I hope they fix that in your EP8 versions.


Got lucky I suppose. Just stumbled across one from on online retailer here in the UK. They had one M10 in XL in stock so I went for it. EP8 motor does have the rattle though


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

jim0905 said:


> Got lucky I suppose. Just stumbled across one from on online retailer here in the UK. They had one M10 in XL in stock so I went for it. EP8 motor does have the rattle though


Ahh, UK...makes sense and whole different story then from the US supplies and wait times.

Let us know all the strengths and weaknesses of that cool bike.


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## jim0905 (May 23, 2017)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Ahh, UK...makes sense and whole different story then from the US supplies and wait times.
> 
> Let us know all the strengths and weaknesses of that cool bike.


Supply isnt good here. Everywhere has been saying next summer for stock but it looks like a handful of places got maybe 1 bike in. 2 rides in so far and I'm really liking it. Changed out the saddle and grips and I need to swap tbe tyres. That Dissector/Rekon combo is no good for UK slop.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Mine will be here in 3 days from EVO. Large M10. I must have bought there only bike.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Mine will be here in 3 days from EVO. Large M10. I must have bought there only bike.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Not cool with the rattle though, cannot stand any bike noise, I’m sure soon they’ll have a cure though.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

Congrats Gutch! It'll be fun, but it won't plow like the decoy!


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Thanks. Yeah I know, it’s got big shoes to fill, the Decoy is an awesome bike. I may be crazy, just get itches to try new things. Just received it today actually. Fit and finish is real good quality. Cable lengths are tidy, except they forgot to send the charger! E-TUBE app works flawless.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Old E8000 charger works right?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Negative, they are Fed Ex charger today from Washington. It’s got a little juice in it.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Ahh, they have their own battery and charger. Normally EP8 batteries and chargers are compatible with E8000


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Ahh, they have their own battery and charger. Normally EP8 batteries and chargers are compatible with E8000


Actually, you may be 100% correct, I was looking at my Specialized and YT chargers both proprietary batteries. Very impressed with the fit and finish


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Hey Francis, come down to SC and you can rip my orbea at Dupont and/ or pisgah. Just bring an ebike for me, like maybe the Bullit! I can ship ebikes!


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Gutch said:


> Hey Francis, come down to SC and you can rip my orbea at Dupont and/ or pisgah. Just bring an ebike for me, like maybe the Bullit! I can ship ebikes!


Santa Cruz? That's a stone's throw away!!!!

I've ridden your forests before. How's the ebike scene there?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Santa Cruz? That's a stone's throw away!!!!
> 
> I've ridden your forests before. How's the ebike scene there?


Growing rapidly, still opposition though.


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## RDO (Apr 26, 2016)

Gutch said:


> .. you can rip my orbea at Dupont and/ or pisgah...


prohibited at both.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

My LTD should be here in two weeks:

I've already:


Swapped out the suspension components for a DPX2 and a Factory 36
Swapped out the brakes for 4 piston XTRs
Swapped out the narrower rims for 35's

I'll be:


Selling the foo foo ceramic saddle that it comes with and putting on my old standby Rocket V Team saddle
Throwing on a set of studded tires for a month or so
Throwing on my preferred Ergon GE1 grips

I might:


Take off the dropper and the dropper remote (none of my bikes have droppers - I use an allen wrench to lower the saddle when needed)
Do a tire swap at some point


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Maybe you should have bought an M10? I’m still assembling mine. Invisiframe incoming today (first bike I’ve done) Renthal 30mm ride bars. 2.6 dissector to front, 2.4 stock to rear, Cush core XC in both. 220 sram front rotor, 200 back. My old Ergon seat on and a new Transfer. Selling Rotors, Bars, Seat and Dropper on Pinkbike. 
*The “purple paper” is a very useful document for this bike. 
*Order your extender now.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Gutch said:


> Maybe you should have bought an M10? I'm still assembling mine. Invisiframe incoming today (first bike I've done) Renthal 30mm ride bars. 2.6 dissector to front, 2.4 stock to rear, Cush core XC in both. 220 sram front rotor, 200 back. My old Ergon seat on and a new Transfer. Selling Rotors, Bars, Seat and Dropper on Pinkbike.
> *The "purple paper" is a very useful document for this bike.
> *Order your extender now.


No, M10 was downspec on lots of other parts (wheels, cranks, drivetrain). Extender ordered with original bike order. Forgot that I'm swapping front rotor for a 203 (already have the parts)


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Are you going to be selling the Wheelset?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Gutch said:


> Are you going to be selling the Wheelset?


No, the brakes/suspension/wheelset swap were all part of the configuration process, so coming with the bike.

The original config for the LTD was DPX/34/narrower wheelset. The LTD and Team come with a carbon wheelset, and the M10/M20 are aluminum (also carbon cranks vs aluminum).


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Gotcha, you swapped at time of build. Smart. I’ll be riding mine in the next week and give you my impressions.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

RickBullottaPA said:


> My LTD should be here in two weeks:
> 
> I've already:
> 
> ...


I was gonna reply with some insight but then I read "none of my bikes have droppers..." Lost me there. 

I do love what you did though with the shocks,bracks, rims.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Francis Cebedo said:


> I was gonna reply with some insight but then I read "none of my bikes have droppers..." Lost me there.
> 
> I do love what you did though with the shocks,bracks, rims.


LOL. I didn't say I didn't drop the saddle though. My dropper weighs only 15 grams and looks like this:


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

Where I ride I use the dropper as much as the shifter


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

This thread needs pics. C'mon guys, get out you phones, so we can see your new bling.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Ripbird said:


> This thread needs pics. C'mon guys, get out you phones, so we can see your new bling.


Here is new Bullit. Stand-in till we get some Rise photos. Rad dropper though used 40x on this ride. My son at Pacifica, CA.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Nice, just invisiframe mine. Holy 3hrs of work! That singletrack looks like a rip.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

So, size large with pedals and cushcore F&R XC, 42 #. 5oz


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Also Disector 2.6 in front and 2.4 rear.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Cheers y'all!


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Picked up mine yesterday. Weighed it stone stock with tubeless set up and pedals on. 40 lbs even. I'll ride it just like it is and then make decisions on any upgrades. Loving it so far.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

JKA said:


> Picked up mine yesterday. Weighed it stone stock with tubeless set up and pedals on. 40 lbs even. I'll ride it just like it is and then make decisions on any upgrades. Loving it so far.
> View attachment 1908602


Nice! Now I'll definitely be right down.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

JKA said:


> Picked up mine yesterday. Weighed it stone stock with tubeless set up and pedals on. 40 lbs even. I'll ride it just like it is and then make decisions on any upgrades. Loving it so far.
> View attachment 1908602


What size is yours? The combination of 2.6 front tire, cushcore's, Invisiframe, 220 front/200 rear rotor, made up the extra 2lb!


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Size large. Yeah I guess I could see 2 lbs more with the mods you made. Got in my first real ride today. Very nice. I’m amazed at how well it pedals uphill even without the motor. With the motor on its super smooth and a very natural ride. Loving it!


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Nice. I’m just waiting on a handlebar to drop and it’s got time. Well my charger also would be nice..


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Gutch said:


> Nice. I'm just waiting on a handlebar to drop and it's got time. Well my charger also would be nice..


Your seat looks pretty high up there, unless you haven't adjusted it yet? What's your height inseam and what bars are you upgrading to?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

What do you mean?!!! Yeah I’m putting a fox 200mm dropper in. My park stand works well when I can clamp on actual seat post. Renthal 35mm rise. 33-34inseam. Extreme side of Large.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Gutch said:


> What do you mean?!!! Yeah I'm putting a fox 200mm dropper in. My park stand works well when I can clamp on actual seat post. Renthal 35mm rise. 33-34inseam. Extreme side of Large.


I see now that you clamp it at the solid part. At 6' I also have long legs 34.5 inseam and the stock 20mm rise wouldn't cut it, especially since the stem is already topped out on the steering tube.


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

KRob said:


> Nice! Now I'll definitely be right down.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Come on down brother. The weather is nice this time of year....compared to Ely. I'll head up there in July though.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

JKA said:


> Come on down brother. The weather is nice this time of year....compared to Ely. I'll head up there in July though.


Where ya'll at?


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

I'm in Vegas and KRob is up in the thriving metropolis of Ely, NV....awesome little community.


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

I didn't think you were in the Twin Cities and KRob was up in Ely, MN - which IS an awesome little community!


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Hahaha, I don't think either of those places have great riding weather right now....at least not for this weather wimp. I have to put on a coat just thinking about it.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Minnesota yesterday: I'm super jealous of the Orbeas and looking forwarding to hearing more feedback. How is the motor noise? My summer bike has a brose and my fat bike a bbshd. I love how silent both motors are.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Damn pretty there, for a day or two!!! My bike will be hammering soon, let you know


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

flyinb501 said:


> Minnesota yesterday: I'm super jealous of the Orbeas and looking forwarding to hearing more feedback. How is the motor noise? My summer bike has a brose and my fat bike a bbshd. I love how silent both motors are.
> View attachment 1909705


Lebanon Hills?


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Murphy hanrehan in this pic, but I do get out to Lebanon every once in a while also.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

flyinb501 said:


> Minnesota yesterday: I'm super jealous of the Orbeas and looking forwarding to hearing more feedback. How is the motor noise? My summer bike has a brose and my fat bike a bbshd. I love how silent both motors are.


Well, I'm super jealous of groomed fatbike trails! Had to break trail in 6-8 inches of heavy stuff a week or so ago. Ha. Enjoy.


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

You guys ride in that white stuff?!?! Holy crap, that's insane! I'm getting frostbite just looking at that picture. I'm a desert rat. I think it's getting a bit chilly if it's below 60.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Well it's better than nothing haha. With an ebike though it's actually fun. I feel bad for all the guys out on the trail in the winter with regular bikes. It's just pure suffer, and no fun factor.


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## OperatorBo (Mar 20, 2011)

E- Fat bikes are the only way!


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## jim0905 (May 23, 2017)

JKA said:


> You guys ride in that white stuff?!?! Holy crap, that's insane! I'm getting frostbite just looking at that picture. I'm a desert rat. I think it's getting a bit chilly if it's below 60.


🤣 60? Shorts and T-shirt weather is that in th UK


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

You Brits are a tough bunch. I'm very spoiled here...kind of a weather wimp. Won't ride in the rain. Of course we went over 225 days without any measurable rain here this past year so it's not much of a sacrifice. We do get wind and I hate riding in that too, but I do it anyway. We do suffer in the summer though. Often the high is 110-115 and even at night it only gets down to 90. I've ridden after work many times in 105-110 degrees. Lots of water and sunscreen. Early morning rides or night rides are best in the summer. I have some friends that are hard core cold weather riders in Norway. This is from WAY above the arctic circle very near the north cape in a town called Skaidi. You won't catch me on a bike out there in the winter. Awesome in the summer though when the sun is up 24 hours a day.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

JKA said:


> Come on down brother. The weather is nice this time of year....compared to Ely. I'll head up there in July though.


Come on up, the weather is fine! 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

The weather's great in Arizona too....


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Kent, That's a beautiful picture, but I don't think I can ride in that white fluffy stuff. 
Funny you should post that Tom Tom. My wife and I were just in Tucson last weekend doing some riding. It is nice weather.


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## kimochi (Jan 21, 2019)

Gutch said:


> Not cool with the rattle though, cannot stand any bike noise, I'm sure soon they'll have a cure though.


How's the rattle after 2 mos? Do you notice it? Does it bother you? I'm very close to pulling the trigger on one, this is the only thing holding me back. Thanks!


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

kimochi said:


> How's the rattle after 2 mos? Do you notice it? Does it bother you? I'm very close to pulling the trigger on one, this is the only thing holding me back. Thanks!


It's not a deal breaker! Nice bike


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

I ride mostly very rocky trails and I definitely hear the rattle, but it's far from a deal breaker. I really don't pay any attention to it now. It is what it is and I just ride and smile.


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## kimochi (Jan 21, 2019)

Gutch said:


> It's not a deal breaker! Nice bike


You are right Gutch, pulled the trigger and never been so happy! Thanks man.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

My LTD arrives tomorrow. I'm not a dropper person, so I'll be swapping out the Fox for a carbon seatpost and the grips for Ergon GE1's, but those are the only changes I anticipate making initially.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

RickBullottaPA said:


> My LTD arrives tomorrow. I'm not a dropper person, so I'll be swapping out the Fox for a carbon seatpost and the grips for Ergon GE1's, but those are the only changes I anticipate making initially.


Kudos! Xmas in March, nice.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Let's see some photos of you Rise machines?

How is that power? How is that range? How does it compare to a Levo SL? Or to a Levo? Feel like it has enough low-end, start-up power or wanting more?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Let's see some photos of you Rise machines?
> 
> How is that power? How is that range? How does it compare to a Levo SL? Or to a Levo? Feel like it has enough low-end, start-up power or wanting more?


Have you not ridden one yet? Damn, you have the connections! I'll post some. Bad ass bike.


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## kimochi (Jan 21, 2019)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Let's see some photos of you Rise machines?
> 
> How is that power? How is that range? How does it compare to a Levo SL? Or to a Levo? Feel like it has enough low-end, start-up power or wanting more?


I didn't even have to adjust to anything and I have ridden a lot of friend's ebikes before this. Everything is dialed on the first day. It rides like a mountain bike both up and down.
Shimano rattle is way overblown! Yes, it is there, but it sounds like a normal cable rattle which I easily forget the moment I start riding downhill.
I rode my friend's levo SL a week before I bought the Rise. They feel the same but Rise motor is quieter than SL. I don't think this is comparable to a levo.
Has enough Boost if you need it. Trail mode is what I use and I can do 5 loops at disney (uc trails).

Overall, I think I am the target market for this type of bike. Fit rider who wants to maximize his time. I used to ride 1x a week (2x if lucky). Now, I've been riding almost everyday.

Also, I don't have pics. I'm still a closet e-biker and don't want to be exposed yet


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

I'm loving everything about this bike. The power is perfect in my opinion. I've ridden a Levo Sl and found the power lacking at times. My son has a full power Obea Wild and even though I like it a lot, the power sometimes can be too much. On his Wild, going into a corner and resetting the pedals sometimes gives you a burst of power that can through you off line a little bit. He has learned to reset the pedal position moving them backwards instead of forward so he doesn't get that. I think the power level on my Rise on profile 2 eco is about the same as his Wild on eco. just a little smoother At least I can keep up with him just fine. The low end start up power seems fine to me. I can get going easily on any climb that I have enough traction for. I haven't ridden slick rock with it's unlimited traction yet, but I'm sure it would be adequate. The range is fine for my riding. I get three normal rides (about 1.5-2 hours) on a full charge or I can get two long rides (3+ hours) on a charge. That's on profile 2 running on a mix of mostly eco and some trail modes. Profile 1 would give me even more range. I have no regrets at all.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Here's mine, with a few tweaks and upgrades:









Let’s see your emtb’s! Picture thread.


Here's "mine" (my wife and I share it): 2021 Specialized Turbo Levo Comp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




www.mtbr.com


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Had my m10 rise for a couple weeks now. This bike is awesome out of the box, Only changes I made so far was to go tubeless switch the dissector to the rear and add an assegai to the front. This bike is amazing.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

JKA and RBPA those bikes are nice!, maybe the most non emtb looking emtb I've seen  I would probably get one of these if I was buying at the moment. 7K for base model is pricey but I like the idea of a more trail oriented ebike, seems like with a beefier fork it could handle some rougher stuff as well.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Tickle said:


> JKA and RBPA those bikes are nice!, maybe the most non emtb looking emtb I've seen  I would probably get one of these if I was buying at the moment. 7K for base model is pricey but I like the idea of a more trail oriented ebike, seems like with a beefier fork it could handle some rougher stuff as well.


That's why I went with the Fox 36 Factory (and DPX2). I've thrashed that fork on my Santa Cruz so I know it can take some abuse!


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

RickBullottaPA said:


> That's why I went with the Fox 36 Factory (and DPX2). I've thrashed that fork on my Santa Cruz so I know it can take some abuse!


Love that orange/black combo, I have an orange/grey Primer  If I got one it would be the base model, currently have an older Pike fork so I imagine the Fox 34 would work for me, but yeah a 36 or Lyrik set at 150 would be my preference!


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Tickle said:


> Love that orange/black combo, I have an orange/grey Primer  If I got one it would be the base model, currently have an older Pike fork so I imagine the Fox 34 would work for me, but yeah a 36 or Lyrik set at 150 would be my preference!


I ride KTM dirt bikes, thus the orange/black color obsession... ;-)


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Have access to a Rise now. Will do a big shootout with a Levo SL tomorrow!!!!










Two mods done already. Bigger rotors and 4-piston Shimano brakes for the LTD.


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Have access to a Rise now. Will do a big shootout with a Levo SL tomorrow!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1919447
> 
> ...


Please comment on the noise factors, the rattle vs the whine. Irritating or irrelevant? Or both?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Have access to a Rise now. Will do a big shootout with a Levo SL tomorrow!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1919447
> 
> ...


For setup, push the saddle back on the rails to start with. The ST angle is pretty steep and it felt a bit far forward when centered.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Have access to a Rise now. Will do a big shootout with a Levo SL tomorrow!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1919447
> 
> ...


Can't wait to hear!

And those mods are part of the reason I went with the M-Team, rather than the LTD.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

RickBullottaPA said:


> For setup, push the saddle back on the rails to start with. The ST angle is pretty steep and it felt a bit far forward when centered.


Thank you!!!!


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Francis Cebedo said:


> Have access to a Rise now. Will do a big shootout with a Levo SL tomorrow!!!!
> 
> View attachment 1919447
> 
> ...


Great. Please let us know how you feel about the different ST angles between the two.


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## christophert21 (Jul 14, 2013)

This is mine getting used in anger









Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

christophert21 said:


> This is mine getting used in anger
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good to see your MTB after a proper ride. However isn't "used with anger" a roadie term - to describe a pro rider trying to win a sprint or bridge a gap?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

I’ve also slid my seat back, 30mm Renthal riser, 230-203 rotors, Bomber CR Coil, cushcore xc, and 2.6 Dissector up front, Transfer 200mm. First ride took it to the mtns and I was dying, later found out I was in stock Profile 1. My buddy on his Decoy was dropping me in eco. Not anymore! Great bike, I bought the 8k model. The rattle is a tad annoying, but I love the no drag feel.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Here's my Large M10 on a shakedown ride. From box to trails in about an hour. Pretty great how dialed the bike is right off the bat.

Swapped the stem straight away for a 40mm to match the reach of my other two bikes (Sight, Optic). Swapped saddle to my beloved Power. Will likely swap grips and move the Dissector to the rear, but the Rekon surprised me. Pretty good little xc tire in that EXO+ casing as long as you don't touch your brakes in a corner. Longer dropper on the way (OneUp 180). Also thinking about going 160 up front, but I'll make that decision later. I ride primarily in an area with some high speed, deep travel chunk and steep rolls to g-outs. 150/65.5° is probably enough for a better rider.

Really impressed with how this bike rides downhill. It feels lighter than it is, really playful side to side and easy to get the front up and over things. Even jumps well. The EP8 klack was noticeable and disconcerting at first, but once I got more comfortable on the bike in a general sense, the noise seemed to fade away.

I haven't ridden too many other ebikes, but a major turn off for me was how those bikes deliver power. Really dislike the "auto" feel most of them have. To that point, the RS concept is geared perfectly toward someone who feels the same. Comes on super smoothly in all modes though I've only tried profile 1 so far. No weird jolts of power on a descent, but did manage to figure out how to modulate a mini jolt in a dicey situation where I needed the front up quickly.

Stoked to have an ebike that feels like more bike than e, but even on the Rise it's tempting to sit back and let the bike climb for you. Will probably be keeping it in the lower modes, messing with the mode tunes so I have still to work hard on those rides with my SL buddies (everyone seems to have an SL here), and still riding mostly analog. Gotta earn that beer somehow.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

That's the spec and size I'm looking at, looks nice. How tall are you?, I'm 6'2" w/34" inseam and currently ride a L Primer and the size #'s on the L look close to identical to my Primer. Won't be any demo's or even throw a leg over one where I am, hell I need to order one now if I want one by this summer sometime.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> That's the spec and size I'm looking at, looks nice. How tall are you?, I'm 6'2" w/34" inseam and currently ride a L Primer and the size #'s on the L look close to identical to my Primer. Won't be any demo's or even throw a leg over one where I am, hell I need to order one now if I want one by this summer sometime.


If you're 6'2" on a 475 reach bike then we definitely have different preferences. I wouldn't even think about the L at your height. I'm 5'9+". Sweet spot for me is 475-480 with at least a 76° sta. My Optic is 480/76°/35mm stem and my Sight, with +10mm fork from stock, is about 480/77.5°/32.

Is the XL 500 or so? I'd go with that, a short stem, and slam my saddle forward, but that's me at your height, not you at your height.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Tickle said:


> That's the spec and size I'm looking at, looks nice. How tall are you?, I'm 6'2" w/34" inseam and currently ride a L Primer and the size #'s on the L look close to identical to my Primer. Won't be any demo's or even throw a leg over one where I am, hell I need to order one now if I want one by this summer sometime.


I would say go XL. I'm 6' 34.5' inseam and I have to slam the seat 100% back on the rails on a Large Rise to get the same seated reach as my Ripley V4 (seat slammed about 95% back). With my long inseam and high saddle height the steep ST new Geo has me feeling like I'm over the bars when seated. I currently have a Large Rise on order and only did a 10min test ride on the Rise around the streets, so more to be seen.

Doesn't your Primer have a slacker ST angle. Reach and TT number change drastically with the 76.5 ST angle, vs your Primer.

JensenUSA has 2 XL M20 in stock. Order up.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

I’m 6’1, ride a large. 200mm dropper and slam seat back. 34”-35 inseam. I don’t need maximum efficiency on an ebike, my Decoy was an xl and sometimes would be rather cumbersome at times. To each his own!


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Thx for the input!, gonna go down to shop and throw a leg over a L Occam to gauge fit. XL size can feel tall and the ETT/reach number on the XL is longer than I've used before. I run an 80 stem now and the fit is good on the L Primer, more traditional fit I guess but I hear you guys on the ST angle, it's a little steeper than the Primer.

Shop said August/Sept if I order one now, but they said they should be getting in a L M10 spec (already ordered) in the next few months. If I can score one of those and the L works might get one soon, otherwise doubt I'll wait that long


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

It sucks being on the fence size wise, the XL Primer felt a tad big which is why I went L, not just tall but long too, like I needed to slam saddle forward.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> It sucks being on the fence size wise, the XL Primer felt a tad big which is why I went L, not just tall but long too, like I needed to slam saddle forward.


The seated position on that Intense is going to be pretty drastically different than the Rise. If you go L, you're going to feel cramped, unless you slam the saddle back. I would only go L if you know that the longer reach won't work for you descending. If that isn't the case, I would trust Orbea's sizing and adjust a bit.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Sounds a little iffy with stock at the local shop but I've never ordered a complete bike from Jenson or online, what's the scoop there if there's problems?? The more I look at the numbers the more I agree XL, ST is 20", an inch longer than Primer, not bad would work. Not sure about the 170 post working tho. Why wouldn't the longer reach on XL work for descending?

Jenson is saying 4/5 for an XL in white in the base model, tempted to order


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> Sounds a little iffy with stock at the local shop but I've never ordered a complete bike from Jenson or online, what's the scoop there if there's problems?? The more I look at the numbers the more I agree XL, ST is 20", an inch longer than Primer, not bad would work. Not sure about the 170 post working tho. Why wouldn't the longer reach on XL work for descending?
> 
> Jenson is saying 4/5 for an XL in white in the base model, tempted to order


I think the reach on the XL would work nicely for you. It's just that it's an inch longer than your previous bike. I made a similar jump in 2018 from 450 (which was long for a medium at the time) to a 475 L Patrol. Been my sweet spot ever since.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Quick update on setup changes to my Rise LTD:

I'm about 170 without gear, and on a relatively technical ride I experimented with some settings and found that the ideal combo with the Fox Factory 36 and DPX2 were with compression damping wide open on both ends. Sag to spec, rebound to spec.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Quick update on setup changes to my Rise LTD:
> 
> I'm about 170 without gear, and on a relatively technical ride I experimented with some settings and found that the ideal combo with the Fox Factory 36 and DPX2 were with compression damping wide open on both ends. Sag to spec, rebound to spec.


If you're gonna talk settings, ya gotta talk pressures my man!


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

kragu said:


> If you're gonna talk settings, ya gotta talk pressures my man!


Ha. I hate doing that usually because some knuckleheads don't realize that it is different based on rider weight, but for you, I'll make an exception. ;-)

Running 84 psi up front and 200 in the rear. I did not change any volume reducers on either.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Ha. I hate doing that usually because some knuckleheads don't realize that it is different based on rider weight, but for you, I'll make an exception. ;-)
> 
> Running 84 psi up front and 200 in the rear. I did not change any volume reducers on either.


You're about 5lb heavier than me, and I'm running 88. We are in range, given that I'm riding burlier terrain than the bike is really intended for. What's interesting to me is that I'm running 10lb less on a 140 36, on the same terrain. That bike is about 10lb lighter, so maybe that's part of the difference?

Back to the Rise, I'll share mine too:

170lb geared up, all settings from full closed

Fork: 
Factory 36 @ 150mm, 88psi
LSR 6 HSR 4 LSC 13 HSC 5

Shock: 
Factory DPX2, 230psi @ 26% sag
R 4, LSC 5

Probably move some things around a little but I have a good sense for this Fox stuff since I have it all on 2 other bikes already. Two rides in and it's feeling pretty good.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

kragu said:


> You're about 5lb heavier than me, and I'm running 88. We are in range, given that I'm riding burlier terrain than the bike is really intended for. What's interesting to me is that I'm running 10lb less on a 140 36, on the same terrain. That bike is about 10lb lighter, so maybe that's part of the difference?
> 
> Back to the Rise, I'll share mine too:
> 
> ...


That's a lot of compression damping on the fork!?!? Grip 2 damper?


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

kragu said:


> The seated position on that Intense is going to be pretty drastically different than the Rise. If you go L, you're going to feel cramped, unless you slam the saddle back. I would only go L if you know that the longer reach won't work for you descending. If that isn't the case, I would trust Orbea's sizing and adjust a bit.


Problem is finding an XL with M10/20 spec in white or coal blue. I'm ready to buy but don't think there's one out there, might be one in a few months according to Jenson but a little hesitant to buy complete bike thru them. I've used them for years for parts/gear but what if there's an issue w/motor or battery. Local shops basically laugh when I ask about ordering the bike.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

RickBullottaPA said:


> That's a lot of compression damping on the fork!?!? Grip 2 damper?


There are only 16 clicks of LSC and 8 of HSC. So at 13 and 5 I'm only 3 clicks from full open. Did you think I was counting from open position? It makes more sense to me to do it that way but Fox counts from closed.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> Problem is finding an XL with M10/20 spec in white or coal blue. I'm ready to buy but don't think there's one out there, might be one in a few months according to Jenson but a little hesitant to buy complete bike thru them. I've used them for years for parts/gear but what if there's an issue w/motor or battery. Local shops basically laugh when I ask about ordering the bike.


Keep an eye on evo.com. That's where I got mine. They come and go, and they're kind of off the radar for most mtbers.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

A Rise would be fantastic with an extender battery or two. It would be just killer to get a 36 lbs e-bike. I think I may get an Evil The Offering first though that remains to be seen. The silver lining of this supply issue is that it gives me more time to figure it out.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

kragu said:


> Keep an eye on evo.com. That's where I got mine. They come and go, and they're kind of off the radar for most mtbers.


Scored an XL M20 spec in white thru evo.com, they are shipping to Denver store and gonna pickup in the next 2 weeks whoop!
I owe you some beers if your ever in Colorado


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> Scored an XL M20 spec in white thru evo.com, they are shipping to Denver store and gonna pickup in the next 2 weeks whoop!
> I owe you some beers if your ever in Colorado


Sweet! Enjoy.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Gonna swap to some DT/Derby wheels I have, DHF/Aggressor tires, 200 rotor up front, trusty Silverado saddle. Considering a Garmin unit to use as a display, if your not using a display how do you know the battery level? 

My only concern is the 170 post with the XL frame, gonna be tight I think, might need to swap to 150 post


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Tickle said:


> Gonna swap to some DT/Derby wheels I have, DHF/Aggressor tires, 200 rotor up front, trusty Silverado saddle. Considering a Garmin unit to use as a display, if your not using a display how do you know the battery level?
> 
> My only concern is the 170 post with the XL frame, gonna be tight I think, might need to swap to 150 post


If you use a lower profile seatpost like maybe a oneup seatpost than you'll probably be fine. I have a small and managed to fit a 150mm ks lev in there. Although be careful of the switch at the base of the seatpost as it shares common space with the post and its easy to dislodge or potentially damage the switch. I knocked mine loose when fitting the lev. A little silicone sealant glue and the switch is secure and water tight. I do wish that orbea would relocate the switch to someplace else because if it wasn't there than I'd be able to get a larger post in that small frame pretty easy.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tickle said:


> Gonna swap to some DT/Derby wheels I have, DHF/Aggressor tires, 200 rotor up front, trusty Silverado saddle. Considering a Garmin unit to use as a display, if your not using a display how do you know the battery level?
> 
> My only concern is the 170 post with the XL frame, gonna be tight I think, might need to swap to 150 post


I'm going 200 front and rear. 180 isn't the business on a bike this heavy.

I had to give up my Wahoo to go Garmin mainly for that reason. It's working well after a tough time setting up initially.

I have a 180 OneUp in my size L. You should be fine.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Had 2 feet of snow last week, another foot and half this week gonna be doing the shakedown rides on the bike path 

Yeah will give the stock post a go but I have a feeling that will be the first upgrade, aside from the stuff I already mentioned. If you don't use a display do you use an app on the phone for info?


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

The little LEDs on the bike will give you a very rough idea of battery level. The Shimano app will give a bit better representation of battery level. I think it's four or five bars on that. I use a Garmin 520+ and it works great with battery level, mode, assist, range. I don't like the idea that I have to spend $200 to get a proper display on an $8k bike, but it's still only $200 when I spent $8k on the bike.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

JKA said:


> The little LEDs on the bike will give you a very rough idea of battery level. The Shimano app will give a bit better representation of battery level. I think it's four or five bars on that. I use a Garmin 520+ and it works great with battery level, mode, assist, range. I don't like the idea that I have to spend $200 to get a proper display on an $8k bike, but it's still only $200 when I spent $8k on the bike.


Are you getting your speed and range in mph/miles? Mine is stuck in kmph and there's no option to select something else. My 530 is set in "statute".


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Mine is in miles. I'm not sure if I remember a choice to select Km or miles during set up. I'm sure it's there somewhere, but I'm of no help. Have you done the restore default settings option yet?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

JKA said:


> Mine is in miles. I'm not sure if I remember a choice to select Km or miles during set up. I'm sure it's there somewhere, but I'm of no help. Have you done the restore default settings option yet?


On what, the bike or Garmin? Etube app or Connect?

The whole rest of my Garmin is in miles. No issues when I ride analog, only on the Toolbox page.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

kragu said:


> Are you getting your speed and range in mph/miles? Mine is stuck in kmph and there's no option to select something else. My 530 is set in "statute".


Same issue here.


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## kenai (Feb 18, 2006)

I just built up my Rise M20 & trying to get the Shimano E-Tube Project app set up 
When I click on New Registration it takes me here and never moves past the loading/buffering
Any ideas what the issue might be?








Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

So I go the bike home, it's really nice!, one issue tho I went to charge it and the plug for the wall outlet looks like some kind of euro standard. What's the scoop there, wrong plug or do I need an adapter??


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Wrong plug. My box had both the euro version and the US version. Go back to your dealer and ask for the right one.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Thx, shop is an hour away but they are looking for it they might of charged the bike and forgot to put back in so they will ship it to me I guess. What about an adapter like you use when you travel? ok to use with charger??


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

That should be no problem at all, It's just the power cord going to the charger. I probably have 2 or 3 old computer power cords that have the same connector and would fit in it. Any power cord that has the same plug configuration as the charger body would be fine.


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

After about a month of owning a small m10 Rise and putting some time in on it. I'm still blown away by how she handles on the downs and with general trail manners. This thing Rips, I run the stock dissector tubeless in the rear and a 2.5 assegai 3c tubeless up front. I swapped the 125mm dropper to at 150mm dropper, Made huge difference in helping me minimize contact with the rear tire. The weight of the bike makes it sticks like velcro and yet its poppy and flows through the turns. The rise is not suppose to be a plow machine but it seems to punch above its weight and hold lines really well especially at high speed. I cant wait to take this bike on road trips and to some fun jump lines. One thing to note is make sure to check your crank arm bolts. While doing a techie climb the other day my non drive side crank arm fell off, thats never happened to me on a normal bike so glad it didnt come off on a down.


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

I've just ordered a medium M10 custom MYO with upgrades to the R31 carbon wheelset and Minions front and rear. 
The bike won't ship until Christmas which kind of sucks but no other ebike really interested me and even the others I considered had similar or longer wait times. This will be my first eMTB but I've been mountainbiking over 20 years.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

monstertiki said:


> After about a month of owning a small m10 Rise and putting some time in on it. I'm still blown away by how she handles on the downs and with general trail manners. This thing Rips, I run the stock dissector tubeless in the rear and a 2.5 assegai 3c tubeless up front. I swapped the 125mm dropper to at 150mm dropper, Made huge difference in helping me minimize contact with the rear tire. The weight of the bike makes it sticks like velcro and yet its poppy and flows through the turns. The rise is not suppose to be a plow machine but it seems to punch above its weight and hold lines really well especially at high speed. I cant wait to take this bike on road trips and to some fun jump lines. One thing to note is make sure to check your crank arm bolts. While doing a techie climb the other day my non drive side crank arm fell off, thats never happened to me on a normal bike so glad it didnt come off on a down.


I'm gonna do shakedown ride today, I checked the crank arm bolts and the preload caps and they were real tight and I could see blue loctite. I read on that other thread that they would address this issue going forward w new Rise's so hopefully I'm good there but will keep an eye on them.

I plan on swapping the wheels/tires/rotors as soon as I get some adapters for the calipers, the stock wheels look like tanks! The tires don't look too bad but need my DHF up front, I imagine that 3C rubber will last maybe 2 rides on the rear


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Tickle said:


> I'm gonna do shakedown ride today, I checked the crank arm bolts and the preload caps and they were real tight and I could see blue loctite. I read on that other thread that they would address this issue going forward w new Rise's so hopefully I'm good there but will keep an eye on them.
> 
> I plan on swapping the wheels/tires/rotors as soon as I get some adapters for the calipers, the stock wheels look like tanks! The tires don't look too bad but need my DHF up front, I imagine that 3C rubber will last maybe 2 rides on the rear


Yeah that dissector is wearing fast, gonna probably throw a dhr2 back there when its done, and the wheel are ok but could always be better. i was looking at going carbon on those with cushcore on at least the rear.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

HighFive! said:


> I've just ordered a medium M10 custom MYO with upgrades to the R31 carbon wheelset and Minions front and rear.
> The bike won't ship until Christmas which kind of sucks but no other ebike really interested me and even the others I considered had similar or longer wait times. This will be my first eMTB but I've been mountainbiking over 20 years.


Merry Christmas! Looks like a beautiful bike. Sorry about the long wait.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah the wheels do look fine, I bought the base M20 spec, but I spent some coin on some DT/Derby's on my previous bike so plan on swapping


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

Tickle said:


> I'm gonna do shakedown ride today, I checked the crank arm bolts and the preload caps and they were real tight and I could see blue loctite. I read on that other thread that they would address this issue going forward w new Rise's so hopefully I'm good there but will keep an eye on them.
> 
> I plan on swapping the wheels/tires/rotors as soon as I get some adapters for the calipers, the stock wheels look like tanks! The tires don't look too bad but need my DHF up front, I imagine that 3C rubber will last maybe 2 rides on the rear


Be sure when you swap wheels that you put the speed sensor magnet back on (only fits on 6-bolt rotors btw), otherwise the motor won't work because it can't tell how fast the bike is going so it shuts down. Ask me how I know...


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

Tickle said:


> Yeah the wheels do look fine, I bought the base M20 spec, but I spent some coin on some DT/Derby's on my previous bike so plan on swapping


See my other post about swapping wheels.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

How do you know? Got in a nice 20 mile pedal yesterday on the bike, our trails are still sloppy but drying out fast so maybe next week a real trail ride. First real ride on an ebike for me other than a short demo once, felt like I was riding a much lighter bike is the sensation I got had a perma grin the whole time. I switched to profile 2 on the app and used mostly trail mode but eco felt good too, boost mode the acceleration was like having a throttle. Probably used half the battery or maybe a little less, but I was moving along nicely none of the hammerheads on their gravel bikes passed me


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Unreal... did 4500ft/21 miles in a mix of eco and trail and still had 48% battery left at the end of the ride.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I was hammering in trail mode but not real sure how much battery I started with, the app said 3/5 bars and then the red light came on at the end of the ride so maybe I used 2 bars? I didn't have plug to charge bike before ride fully, btw XL was the right choice just need slightly longer stem


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

So I've done a few rides now and really enjoying the bike, handles like a normal MB on the trails and can hardly tell it's a 40lb bike while climbing or pedaling the flats. I'm still adjusting to the longer wheelbase it's 2" longer than my previous bike, can feel it on the tight switchbacks or slow speed direction changes. 

Have you guys played with the programing thru the app? I'm using stock settings on profile 2, mostly eco and trail, any sugg's there??


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

The only change I've made with the power settings is I upped the eco setting by one click on profile 1. I use profile 1 if I'm riding alone and want a good workout or if I'm riding with my wife on her full power emtb. If I ride with my son with him on an Orbea Wild, then I use profile 2. I haven't felt the need to adjust the settings any more at all, but that's just my preferences.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

I use profile 2 exclusively, mostly on trail and eco, and the range is EXTRAORDINARY. A 12-15 mile relatively technical ride will leave me 50% battery.


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

What is your vert on that 12-15 mile ride? And your weight please.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah haven't felt the need to change anything either, couple days ago did around 23 miles and 2k vert and had 3 of 5 bars left, tried to stay in eco as much as possible but used trail mode on steeper portions of climbs. I think I could get 4K vert in if I watch my trail mode usage.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Jack7782 said:


> What is your vert on that 12-15 mile ride? And your weight please.


1200-1500 feet of climbing, 175 lbs or so (depends if before or after post ride beers).


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Jack7782 said:


> What is your vert on that 12-15 mile ride? And your weight please.


Also, that vert is often on some very rough terrain, so far more energy consumption (mine and the bike's) than a doubletrack climb...


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

So the more power to the pedals the more the assist and battery consumption? If so that's a good argument for spinning a lower gear while climbing


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Tickle said:


> So the more power to the pedals the more the assist and battery consumption? If so that's a good argument for spinning a lower gear while climbing


I honestly don't care about electrical efficiency. I just want to ride my bike and at a cadence that is appropriate for the terrain. ;-)


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

So, I'm a new Rise owner (purchased from Jenson's) and apparently received a Euro spec bike (25kph limit and kph's only speed setting.) I've seen others in this thread with same problem. I've made an inquiry to Orbea and received nothing helpful - followed up and am awaiting their reply. Have also contacted Jenson's...

Has anyone resolved this? Anybody have any details on how and what needs to be done to correct? Can any Shimano dealer update? Will it require an Orbea dealer? Can an end user make change? 

Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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## dirtbiker (Jan 23, 2005)

Can anyone who is 5’8-5’9 range tell me what size you went with. I ride a medium in Ibis bikes and thought they ran kind of small but the size chart on the Orbea site makes me think I should be on a large. Any input would be appreciated.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

dirtbiker said:


> Can anyone who is 5'8-5'9 range tell me what size you went with. I ride a medium in Ibis bikes and thought they ran kind of small but the size chart on the Orbea site makes me think I should be on a large. Any input would be appreciated.


I'm just over 5'9". With a 50mm stem stock, you have a lot of room to bring the bars in if you need to, with a Large. Would be awkward to go longer on a Medium. Also, the reach on a L (474) is stated with a 140mm 34, whose AC is 547. If you're going to run a 150 36, you're looking at 561, which shortens the reach about 5mm.

That said, there's something to be said for a shorter ebike, IMO. My other two bikes have a 480ish reach, and I'm real comfortable on my Rise at about 465 (running 160 fork), though I'm running a stem thats 15mm longer than the other bikes.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> So, I'm a new Rise owner (purchased from Jenson's) and apparently received a Euro spec bike (25kph limit and kph's only speed setting.) I've seen others in this thread with same problem. I've made an inquiry to Orbea and received nothing helpful - followed up and am awaiting their reply. Have also contacted Jenson's...
> 
> Has anyone resolved this? Anybody have any details on how and what needs to be done to correct? Can any Shimano dealer update? Will it require an Orbea dealer? Can an end user make change?
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.


No matter what the outcome, Jenson needs to cover the cost and effort.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

RickBullottaPA said:


> No matter what the outcome, Jenson needs to cover the cost and effort.


What cost is that? I ask because I have an M10 on order through Jensen. Luckily for me Jensen is about 30 miles from my house.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Ripbird said:


> What cost is that? I ask because I have an M10 on order through Jensen. Luckily for me Jensen is about 30 miles from my house.


Most Shimano dealers will charge you for any work like this (firmware reinstall, wheel circumference change, etc).

And while it is lucky that Jenson is 30 miles away, isn't it a pain in the a$$ that you need to spend $30 in car wear and tear and 2+ hours of your time to get it fixed?

Your local shop or Jenson should have done a once over on the bike and verified everything before delivering it to you (including the crank arm fix).

I hope you get it sorted soon. You'll love the bike.


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## powder yeti (May 25, 2015)

cascade said:


> So, I'm a new Rise owner (purchased from Jenson's) and apparently received a Euro spec bike (25kph limit and kph's only speed setting.) I've seen others in this thread with same problem. I've made an inquiry to Orbea and received nothing helpful - followed up and am awaiting their reply. Have also contacted Jenson's...
> 
> Has anyone resolved this? Anybody have any details on how and what needs to be done to correct? Can any Shimano dealer update? Will it require an Orbea dealer? Can an end user make change?
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.


If you download the shimano e-tube app on your phone, turn on your rise and then go through the process of connecting to the bike via bluetooth. Once connected, you can go into settings and make changes.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

powder yeti said:


> If you download the shimano e-tube app on your phone, turn on your rise and then go through the process of connecting to the bike via bluetooth. Once connected, you can go into settings and make changes.


You can't change a Euro spec bike to a US spec bike with the eTube app.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Rick, I thought I read you had a similar problem with the speed presentation...how did you fix? I've gone through the Garmin options and everything seems correct. The Orbea data fields don't provide an option for MPH.

Love the bike. Moved the dissector to the rear and am running a 2.5 DHF in front. Great range and handling.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

powder yeti said:


> If you download the shimano e-tube app on your phone, turn on your rise and then go through the process of connecting to the bike via bluetooth. Once connected, you can go into settings and make changes.


I couldn't find an option...what am I missing? Thanks!


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> Rick, I thought I read you had a similar problem with the speed presentation...how did you fix? I've gone through the Garmin options and everything seems correct. The Orbea data fields don't provide an option for MPH.
> 
> Love the bike. Moved the dissector to the rear and am running a 2.5 DHF in front. Great range and handling.


I fixed it by putting an SC-MT800 display on the bike. 

Orbea support SUCKS. This should literally be a same day fix - at most 50 lines of software. They're non-responsive and evasive.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Might be all Jenson can get since these bikes are unicorns, they didn't have any when I was looking but I got lucky and found one thru Evo. What's the speed limit adjustment on the app for?, to lower it??


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

Silver lining  - ride it Euro style to get more range because YOU will supply the power over 15mph vs 20 mph. Thats the idea of a lightweight eMTB anyway, right?


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

RickBullottaPA said:


> I fixed it by putting an SC-MT800 display on the bike.


Did that do anything about speed limitation? Not impressed with Orbea response...


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Jack7782 said:


> Silver lining  - ride it Euro style to get more range because YOU will supply the power over 15mph vs 20 mph. That's the idea of a lightweight eMTB anyway, right?


Really haven't noticed the limit, except on flat road, but pisses me off that neither the manufacturer or the dealer seem to give a ****...


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> Did that do anything about speed limitation? Not impressed with Orbea response... Euro spec bike does not comply with DOT regulations - grey market ebike? You'd think both Orbea and Jenson would want to resolve to avoid legal issues...


Nope - just that the Orbea Rise Toolbox on my Garmin 830 only shows metric units - I needed miles and MPH


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Tickle said:


> Might be all Jenson can get since these bikes are unicorns, they didn't have any when I was looking but I got lucky and found one thru Evo. What's the speed limit adjustment on the app for?, to lower it??


Speed limit for Euro is 25KPH, for US 20mph. Would have bought locally (Seattle) if they were available. Saw them at Jenson and ordered a day later. Bike was packaged well and had no other problems. So far I've heard nothing from Jenson... Hope to have a local dealer make change.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> Really haven't noticed the limit, except on flat road, but pisses me off that neither the manufacturer or the dealer seem to give a ****...


Oh, you'll notice it. Trust me.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Jenson definitely owes you something I have had good luck with them, credit or something


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Tickle said:


> Jenson definitely owes you something I have had good luck with them, credit or something


Thanks. 
I doubt it will cost much to get resolved, but Jenson, as you said, should step up and at least respond to my inquiry.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I got lucky w/Evo on price too, paid $6500 for base model and I think a few days later price went up to 7K


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Most Shimano dealers will charge you for any work like this (firmware reinstall, wheel circumference change, etc).
> 
> And while it is lucky that Jenson is 30 miles away, isn't it a pain in the a$$ that you need to spend $30 in car wear and tear and 2+ hours of your time to get it fixed?
> 
> ...


I'm going to make sure that the firmware has been looked at and the spec is correct to US before I agree on 8k being charged to my card. If I get a "duh, I don't have any idea" type of response from a bike shop of their caliber, I may pass on this bike. Hopefully by now and the fact that they already sold a good 20+ Rises, someone who works their should be keen to the workings of this bike.

My M10 is supposed to arrive early May. I'm the first buyer on their list for this model in Blue.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Ripbird said:


> I'm going to make sure that the firmware has been looked at and the spec is correct to US before I agree on 8k being charged to my card.
> 
> My M10 is supposed to arrive early May. I'm the first buyer on their list for this model in Blue.


Good move - you're probably ok, but if your stance causes them to invest a little more time in quality assurance, so much the better.

Here's my exchange with Orbea:

*My new Rise is, apparently, a European spec model ( registration # ___) and is speed limited to 25 kph and data is presented in kph. Is there a method for me to change this to US specification? and their response:*

Good afternoon:
Thank you for contacting Orbea!
The maximum speed in Europe for an ebike is 25 Kilometers / hour and for the USA it is 20 Miles / hour
All ebikes sold in the USA are programmed for that speed of 20 Mph
The registration corresponds to Mph
All the best,
Orbea team

and my follow-up:

Thank you for the response.

However, the bike only reflects Kilometers and assist ends at 25 kph as indicated on Garmin 530. Regardless of what the registration indicates, the bike must be European spec. I need help correcting this problem.

Thanks,
Don

They've not responded.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> Good move - you're probably ok, but if your stance causes them to invest a little more time in quality assurance, so much the better.
> 
> Here's my exchange with Orbea:
> 
> ...


FYI, on the US spec bikes, assist actually starts to cut out at around 18 MPH or so. It's a weird Shimano thing. Be super certain that your bike isn't actually US Spec. Changing the units on the display is a different issue and easy to do.


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## vizcarmb (Apr 7, 2021)

Take your bike to your Orbea dealer. They should remedy your issue.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

RickBullottaPA said:


> FYI, on the US spec bikes, assist actually starts to cut out at around 18 MPH or so. It's a weird Shimano thing. Be super certain that your bike isn't actually US Spec. Changing the units on the display is a different issue and easy to do.


When I connect with Shimano E-tube Project, it shows maximum speed as 25kph. When my Garmin 530 indicates 25kph assist turns off.
Garmin display unit speed its already set to MPH. Orbea toolbox doesn't give an option to change unit speed form KPH to MPH. How did you do it? I thought your solution was to change to a SC-MT800? I actually have one from another bike but I like having battery capacity reflected as a percentage.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

vizcarmb said:


> Take your bike to your Orbea dealer. They should remedy your issue.


Bike is in Seattle, selling dealer in Southern Cal. Hope to find local dealer that will help even though bike wasn't purchased from them. Wish I could do it myself...


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> When I connect with Shimano E-tube Project, it shows maximum speed as 25kph. When my Garmin 530 indicates 25kph assist turns off.
> Garmin display unit speed its already set to MPH. Orbea toolbox doesn't give an option to change unit speed form KPH to MPH. How did you do it? I thought your solution was to change to a SC-MT800? I actually have one from another bike but I like having battery capacity reflected as a percentage.


Yeah, never figured out how to change the Rise Toolbox units on my Garmin.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Be super certain that your bike isn't actually US Spec.


Can you clarify what this means? What spec are you recommending if you live in the US?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Ripbird said:


> Can you clarify what this means? What spec are you recommending if you live in the US?


Just saying that a US Spec bike won't usually provide assist all the way to 20 MPH, so some people have been confused and assumed that they had a Euro spec bike.


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Anyone know where one obtains a range extender for the rise? I have one ordered for the last 3 weeks at a LBS but they don't have an eta.


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

I’ve sold mr Rise to a gentleman and have had the extender on order since December. I’ve been told 3 dates which of course have not happened. The latest is April 15th, but customer service was supposed to get back with me “tomorrow “ 3 days ago. Idk, awesome bike, but damn.


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## vizcarmb (Apr 7, 2021)

cascade said:


> Bike is in Seattle, selling dealer in Southern Cal. Hope to find local dealer that will help even though bike wasn't purchased from them. Wish I could do it myself...


Your local dealer should be able to help if it is warranty related regardless where you bought it. They can charge a diagnostic fee if it is not warranty related but they are missing out on a potential customer and revenue.

Not sure why certain dealers are like that.


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Received a response from Orbea to my follow-up question:

"Dear, Don *_*,

I have checked it with my teammates and it seems that we are aware of this incident and we are working to resolve it as soon as possible.

We will give more information once it is resolved.

Sorry for the inconvenience that this could have caused to you.

Kind regards,

Orbea Team,"

Credit to Orbea for responding and acknowledging problem.

However, I read a facebook post from an Orbea owner's group - someone had same issue and the problem required a fix to be sent to an Orbea dealer to correct.

"The EP8 can be configured with either an EU or US region which is what determines the maximum assist speed. This is locked such that only the manufacturer can change it. In my case, Orbea remotely flashed my firmware through a dealer. "

Hopefully, Orbea will find a way to release a "secure" update through E-Tube and not require a case by case fix.

And no response from Jenson.

The saga continues...


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

cascade said:


> Received a response from Orbea to my follow-up question:
> 
> "Dear, Don *_*,
> 
> ...


An eTube fix ain't gonna happen, unfortunately. It will require a dealer visit.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Got the wheels/tires swapped, shaved a couple pounds, still waiting on brake adapters for bigger rotors but it's coming along. Also up'd the assist and torque levels one notch in the eco and trail modes, profile 2, she's got some pep in her step now


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Good luck cascade!, maybe your local Orbea dealer and some beer? If I have a problem with motor/battery that's my plan even tho I bought it online thru Evo, my local dealer didn't have any availability


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## cascade (Feb 24, 2005)

Tickle said:


> Good luck cascade!, maybe your local Orbea dealer and some beer? If I have a problem with motor/battery that's my plan even tho I bought it online thru Evo, my local dealer didn't have any availability


Thanks Tickle!
I think I'll eventually get it fixed. Bike is great and I really don't feel it's lacking because of the Euro spec - just want it to be right. I rode it yesterday and continue to get it dialed in and really like it. I'll probably take it to Evo, as I've been a customer purchasing a $hit load of ski gear and an Evil Following frameset, so at least I have some history with them. I hope they'll recognize that I would have bought it from them if they had one in stock, and while I'm all in favor of beer gratuity, I'm not going to kiss anybody's ass to get what I paid for. Certainly, Orbea's needs to sort it out and I'll expect them to facilitate fix with their local dealer. We'll see...


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## RikRidesRedBikes (Apr 19, 2021)

monstertiki said:


> After about a month of owning a small m10 Rise and putting some time in on it. I'm still blown away by how she handles on the downs and with general trail manners. This thing Rips, I run the stock dissector tubeless in the rear and a 2.5 assegai 3c tubeless up front. I swapped the 125mm dropper to at 150mm dropper, Made huge difference in helping me minimize contact with the rear tire. The weight of the bike makes it sticks like velcro and yet its poppy and flows through the turns. The rise is not suppose to be a plow machine but it seems to punch above its weight and hold lines really well especially at high speed. I cant wait to take this bike on road trips and to some fun jump lines. One thing to note is make sure to check your crank arm bolts. While doing a techie climb the other day my non drive side crank arm fell off, thats never happened to me on a normal bike so glad it didnt come off on a down.


Just received an email from Orbea warning me of this issue? Do you happen to know what the torque specs are for the crank arm bolts or did you just wrench them down? I emailed inquiring about this and they responded by telling me to go to one of their dealers. I don't need to go to a dealer to tighten bolts just tell me the proper torque settings.


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

RikRidesRedBikes said:


> Just received an email from Orbea warning me of this issue? Do you happen to know what the torque specs are for the crank arm bolts or did you just wrench them down? I emailed inquiring about this and they responded by telling me to go to one of their dealers. I don'ta need to go to a dealer to tighten bolts just tell me the proper torque settings.


its stamped on the cranks.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

monstertiki said:


> its stamped on the cranks.


...but not on the preload cap. And the key element here is to put loctite/threadlocker on the preload cap. 2 Nm on that one.


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

Here's the tech update from Ethirteen on the crank issue. Not limited to Orbea, but all Shimano EP8 and 8000 motors.









TSB #156 - e*spec Shimano™ alloy crank tech update


TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN #156.2 e*spec Shimano™ alloy crank tech update Product(s) included: e*thirteen e*spec Shimano EP8 alloy cranks. Abstract e*spec Shimano EP8/EP800 alloy cranks were dev...




support.ethirteen.com


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

JKA said:


> Here's the tech update from Ethirteen on the crank issue. Not limited to Orbea, but all Shimano EP8 and 8000 motors.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


...and not limited to the alloy cranks. I'll reach out to e*thirteen to get it updated.


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

RickBullottaPA said:


> ...and not limited to the alloy cranks. I'll reach out to e*thirteen to get it updated.


Thanks for adding that Rick. At least one poor chap with carbon cranks lost the pre-load cap and had his crank arm fall off during a ride. I wonder who that was??


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Thankfully my cranks have stayed tight I think they had done the fix by the time I got mine.

Did 30 miles and 3k climbing today, stayed in trail mode till the very end when the red light came on so switched to eco. So 90% trail and used probably 90% of the battery, not too bad, plus my legs were still pretty fresh. Trail mode makes climbing feel easy at times 👍


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

road block on today's ride......


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Tickle said:


> road block on today's ride......
> 
> View attachment 1928651


Plenty of room on the left, but ya, that's no small boulder.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Tickle said:


> road block on today's ride......
> 
> View attachment 1928651


There's a perfectly good line on the right too! Braaaaaap!


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I just got some speed up in boost mode and bunny hopped it!


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Anyone have an issue doing the firmware update? A buddy just bought a team editon, He decided to update the firmware and ended up failing and bricking his bike. Not sure how he managed that, I haven't heard of that nor exerienced the issue on my rise.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

monstertiki said:


> Anyone have an issue doing the firmware update? A buddy just bought a team editon, He decided to update the firmware and ended up failing and bricking his bike. Not sure how he managed that, I haven't heard of that nor exerienced the issue on my rise.


Worked fine for me, but I use a wired connection to the bike rather than Bluetooth.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

monstertiki said:


> Anyone have an issue doing the firmware update? A buddy just bought a team editon, He decided to update the firmware and ended up failing and bricking his bike. Not sure how he managed that, I haven't heard of that nor exerienced the issue on my rise.


Happened to a buddy of mine. Had to bring to local Orbea dealer, but it was an easy fix.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

monstertiki said:


> Anyone have an issue doing the firmware update? A buddy just bought a team editon, He decided to update the firmware and ended up failing and bricking his bike. Not sure how he managed that, I haven't heard of that nor exerienced the issue on my rise.


Worked fine for me, from my phone via Bluetooth.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## scottie mac (Nov 3, 2011)

I have have owned two Rise, an M20 and a M10. The M20 came from Jenson and was perfect. The M10 came from an east coast dealer and after the first ride (got a month after the M20) I knew right away something wasn't right. I went into the etube app and had the same issue, 25lph max assist. Checked the M20, 20mph. I contacted the store who put me in touch with the rep. Ended up taking it to a dealer who had to call into Orbea USA once the bike was hooked to the computer to allow the change from Euro spec to US spec. Apparently Orbea makes it very difficult to change due the Euro spec laws. You will absolutely notice the difference when it is US spec. Good luck.

SM


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Geoff Gulevich's testing video makes me want to bring my rise north of the border when were able to. Awesome vid!


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Great video thx for posting, he makes those gnarly trails look easy


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## sgtcurry (Mar 27, 2011)

I have an M10 on order, I am thinking at bare minimum Reverb AXS and GX AXS. I have both on my rail and really can't go back.


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## littlev21 (Oct 4, 2018)

hey all, does anyone have a story to tell on orbea's track record concerning availability of the Rise. I'm slated for a end of july delivery.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

littlev21 said:


> hey all, does anyone have a story to tell on orbea's track record concerning availability of the Rise. I'm slated for a end of july delivery.


Obviously each case is different due to component differences, shipping scenarios, and so on, but mine was about 8 weeks delayed from its original delivery date.


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## sgtcurry (Mar 27, 2011)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Obviously each case is different due to component differences, shipping scenarios, and so on, but mine was about 8 weeks delayed from its original delivery date.


The bike shop I ordered from said they were supposed to get some slowly starting last November but Orbea let it slip and they are getting their entire allotment for the year in the next 2 month. Oddly enough Orbea did give them a M10 demo bike just recently, I am supposed to get to demo it this weekend on the trails. Pretty excited to try it out, first bike I will get to demo this year before I buy.


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## littlev21 (Oct 4, 2018)

Mine is also a m10, with some upgrades. I think a ship date of July 17-24, which somehow is just outside of the two month window. So I get it early or not at all maybe. Fingers crossed!! Any updates would be appreciated!!!


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## kenai (Feb 18, 2006)

Has anyone unrestricted the motor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

kenai said:


> Has anyone unrestricted the motor?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why would you/anyone want to void the warranty?


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

kenai said:


> Has anyone unrestricted the motor?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know of one person that up'd their power to the full 85newton-meters. I personally am not interested in it but I can see with a range extender it would be a nice option, just the whole voiding warranty thing is a major deterrent should you need to send in the bike or electronic components in for service.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Keep an eye on those tiny little screws holding the plastic motor cover, nearly ripped it off on a rock roller today one was missing and the other 2 were loose. Wonder how long it's gonna last, if it's that important why the tiny little screws like you'd see on a battery cover or something


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## davidg86 (Aug 6, 2010)

I got a chance to ride a Levo SL and rise back to back and I guess I’m in the minority or something is wrong but the Rise felt a little underwhelming.

Over a 2 mile segment the rise was 45sec slower keeping my heart rate/power the same.

Update: I downloaded the E-TUBE app and went into the settings. The default Turbo mode was set at like 70% and start assist was low too. I set everything to 100% but unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to ride afterwards so I’ll see how this changes things.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

Few pics from today&#8230;what a great, fun bike to ride!


























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

davidg86 said:


> I got a chance to ride a Levo SL and rise back to back and I guess I'm in the minority or something is wrong but the Rise felt a little underwhelming.
> 
> Over a 2 mile segment the rise was 45sec slower keeping my heart rate/power the same.
> 
> Update: I downloaded the E-TUBE app and went into the settings. The default Turbo mode was set at like 70% and start assist was low too. I set everything to 100% but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to ride afterwards so I'll see how this changes things.


How did changing the settings workout?


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Anyone put on a skid basher?, wonder if that would help with protecting the underside of the motor the plastic cover is getting really beat up on mine. The bike has the tabs it looks like but have not seen a Rise with one installed


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

monstertiki said:


> Geoff Gulevich's testing video makes me want to bring my rise north of the border when were able to. Awesome vid!


Thanks for linking. This is a lot closer to the terrain we have here in Western Washington. Keep seeing vids out of the UK and the terrain doesn't look the same so hard to draw conclusions (I would never ride a Fox 34, for example, briefly had a bike with a 34mm fork and it was not up to the terrain).

I just rented a Norco Sight VLT and while I adjusted to it on jump lines, on regular trails where there are smaller optional features I had a real hard time getting the thing airborne; it just really wanted to stay on the ground. I don't know if that's down to suspension setup or is it just that a 52 lbs ebike doesn't want to pop off rocks and stuff? I do a lot of bump jumping roots and rocks since the roll over of 27.5 isn't great and otherwise I would get hung up and lose too much speed (I know the Orbea is a 29er, but I've only ridden mid travel 27.5 the last five years).


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Tickle said:


> Anyone put on a skid basher?, wonder if that would help with protecting the underside of the motor the plastic cover is getting really beat up on mine. The bike has the tabs it looks like but have not seen a Rise with one installed


Ive noticed i have to be careful when going over rocks


fitek said:


> Thanks for linking. This is a lot closer to the terrain we have here in Western Washington. Keep seeing vids out of the UK and the terrain doesn't look the same so hard to draw conclusions (I would never ride a Fox 34, for example, briefly had a bike with a 34mm fork and it was not up to the terrain).
> 
> I just rented a Norco Sight VLT and while I adjusted to it on jump lines, on regular trails where there are smaller optional features I had a real hard time getting the thing airborne; it just really wanted to stay on the ground. I don't know if that's down to suspension setup or is it just that a 52 lbs ebike doesn't want to pop off rocks and stuff? I do a lot of bump jumping roots and rocks since the roll over of 27.5 isn't great and otherwise I would get hung up and lose too much speed (I know the Orbea is a 29er, but I've only ridden mid travel 27.5 the last five years).


If the sight you rented is anything like my friends, that thing is a tank. One feels like a monstertruck pushing and plowing and the other maneuvers like a sports car on the trails. I tell people to get the rise with the 36, dpx 2 combo as opposed to the 34.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

monstertiki said:


> If the sight you rented is anything like my friends, that thing is a tank. One feels like a monstertruck pushing and plowing and the other maneuvers like a sports car on the trails. I tell people to get the rise with the 36, dpx 2 combo as opposed to the 34.


Thank you! Yes, the guy at the shop said it felt more like his small dirt bikes. I expected as a 27.5 bike it would be more poppy and playful than 29ers. But I rode a Levo SL the same day and that bike, despite same geo but big wheels, felt way more nimble and playfulm though I did not like the assist on it (very unnatural at low speed).


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Can anyone comment how this bike is with assist off? Most of the trails around here don't allow ebikes (though no enforcement and a ton of people ignore the ban, I try to be respectful), but I figure something like this could be ridden with the electric assist turned off. Until last spring, my one mountain bike was 34.5lbs, obviously even more when I loaded up with two water bottles and I didn't think anything of it.


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

Without assist, its very manageable. I rode with a group a few weeks ago and alot of them didnt even know i was on an ebike. Kept the pace no problem on climbs, and on the down assist definitely not needed.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

fitek said:


> Can anyone comment how this bike is with assist off? Most of the trails around here don't allow ebikes (though no enforcement and a ton of people ignore the ban, I try to be respectful), but I figure something like this could be ridden with the electric assist turned off. Until last spring, my one mountain bike was 34.5lbs, obviously even more when I loaded up with two water bottles and I didn't think anything of it.


Pedals great without the assist, and use "Off" as a fourth mode. Motor aside, the Rise is just a great trail bike.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

monstertiki said:


> Without assist, its very manageable. I rode with a group a few weeks ago and alot of them didnt even know i was on an ebike. Kept the pace no problem on climbs, and on the down assist definitely not needed.





waltaz said:


> Pedals great without the assist, and use "Off" as a fourth mode. Motor aside, the Rise is just a great trail bike.


Thanks! I doubt I can justify keeping two expensive mountain bikes. Now to figure out how to throw a leg over one... or maybe an Occam as a proxy to gauge sizing. The Orbea website claims a ship date of Mar 2022, which is too bad as I would have liked an all black or all dark blue one (not a fan of the two tone colors). The going rate on Pinkbike classifieds seems to be almost $10k. Prolly I'll have to wait until the COVID effect is over.


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## TJONE12345 (Jun 1, 2021)

Got both the Rise M10 XL and Turbo Levo Gen 3 S5 as well as SP Enduro S4.I’m 6.1 riding XC Trail and Enduro.

When I got the Rise i thought it was to harsh and poppy compared to other analog trail bikes I’ve ridden. I have changed to Fatbar 30 mm rise and will shortern stem to 40 mm. I will also change discs to 200 back and front. I will change the back tire to Schwalbe Nobby Nic when it get a bit muddy. Winter will be Magic Mary and Big Betty.

I got some 200 miles so far and it’s perfect for XC Trails and even high speed berms. I go with the Levo for longer and more demanding trail riding.
My Enduro is for bike parks.

I also use the ST Unlocker and increased speed to us standard 32 km h instead of EU 25 and wow what a difference it is 

I don’t think that one bike will do it all but it depends on where and how you ride.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

I used to have two mountain bikes but with the latest bikes they are so versatile I went down to one. Progressive rates help, you can run different sag. 

The Orbea website now gives dates between April and July 2022.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Where the heck is the size guide for this bike? I'm 5'11" with a short inseam-- 30 or maybe 31. The calculator doesn't even let me type in that inseam.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

fitek said:


> Where the heck is the size guide for this bike? I'm 5'11" with a short inseam-- 30 or maybe 31. The calculator doesn't even let me type in that inseam.


Large. I'm 5'10" with same 30.5 inseam and it's perfect.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

davidg86 said:


> I got a chance to ride a Levo SL and rise back to back and I guess I'm in the minority or something is wrong but the Rise felt a little underwhelming.
> 
> Over a 2 mile segment the rise was 45sec slower keeping my heart rate/power the same.
> 
> Update: I downloaded the E-TUBE app and went into the settings. The default Turbo mode was set at like 70% and start assist was low too. I set everything to 100% but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to ride afterwards so I'll see how this changes things.


Literally impossible. Physics and all. The Rise will be faster. 70% more torque and roughly the same weight.


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## davidg86 (Aug 6, 2010)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Literally impossible. Physics and all. The Rise will be faster. 70% more torque and roughly the same weight.


I'm guessing you didn't read through the whole post...


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

davidg86 said:


> I'm guessing you didn't read through the whole post...


Ha. I did. Still waiting for your followup. Kinda know the outcome though.


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## davidg86 (Aug 6, 2010)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Ha. I did. Still waiting for your followup. Kinda know the outcome though.


lol...I didn't realize I never followed up. All settings pushed to 100 on boost mode turned this into a proper beast! I think this bike is the sweet spot of power to weight at the moment in the M10 spec. I can't wait for ebikes to get even lighter over the years. The Rise and Levo SL are awesome bikes for the person wanting to have a good bike to train on those off days when your legs are fried or just to get out further and longer when exploring new trails.

I've spent some time on the new Gen3 Levo and its just too heavy and stuck to the ground, you end up sitting and spinning and losing all normal mountain biking technique.

The only higher powered ebike I've ridden that skirts the edge of weight is the Heckler MX. You can still hop around and throw it into a corner without plowing through.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

davidg86 said:


> lol...I didn't realize I never followed up. All settings pushed to 100 on boost mode turned this into a proper beast! I think this bike is the sweet spot of power to weight at the moment in the M10 spec. I can't wait for ebikes to get even lighter over the years. The Rise and Levo SL are awesome bikes for the person wanting to have a good bike to train on those off days when your legs are fried or just to get out further and longer when exploring new trails.
> 
> I've spent some time on the new Gen3 Levo and its just too heavy and stuck to the ground, you end up sitting and spinning and losing all normal mountain biking technique.
> 
> The only higher powered ebike I've ridden that skirts the edge of weight is the Heckler MX. You can still hop around and throw it into a corner without plowing through.


Totally with you. I think we're going to see some 35 pound wonder bikes in the not too distant future. And I also agree that this type of bike is great for that "tweener" day. Probably would be tough to go out for a big ride on a Rise or SL with someone rocking a full power eMTB with a 700 Wh battery, but that's not really where they're targeted. In a twisted way, it's kinda the same challenge when going out on a ride on a Rise or SL with someone on a regular MTB. Someone's either slacking or suffering. ;-)


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Totally with you. I think we're going to see some 35 pound wonder bikes in the not too distant future. And I also agree that this type of bike is great for that "tweener" day. Probably would be tough to go out for a big ride on a Rise or SL with someone rocking a full power eMTB with a 700 Wh battery, but that's not really where they're targeted. In a twisted way, it's kinda the same challenge when going out on a ride on a Rise or SL with someone on a regular MTB. Someone's either slacking or suffering. ;-)


with the rise, i find my goal isn't to make the ebike kom up the hill. its to arrive relatively fresh, besides there is usually traffic so i have to slow down often till its ok to pass. Really stoked on the rise how it is. hope shimano gets the motor knock and other issues sorted. I would like to just be able to drop in another motor once this one is done and not have to change bikes. Im looking to at least get 3 years minimum out of the rise. Now if and when they make an ebike rallon.....


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## Rod B. (Jul 28, 2021)

Tickle said:


> Anyone put on a skid basher?, wonder if that would help with protecting the underside of the motor the plastic cover is getting really beat up on mine. The bike has the tabs it looks like but have not seen a Rise with one installed


While riding yesterday, I lightly bottomed out my Rise on a dirt berm. After the ride, I checked the lower black plastic motor protector cover. The cover was fine, but I noticed one of the three screws which hold the plastic cover in place had fallen out. The other two screws, were loose. The screws are very small Phillips head metric machine screws. The motor cover is rugged, but the tiny screws holding the cover in place, are not. It's a design weakness. I have a feeling it's going to be an ongoing issue trying to keep the screws in place.

I checked Shimano's website. The part number for cover replacement screws is Y7HC98030. Shimano doesn't provide the screw dimensions. I've written Orbea and have asked for the screw dimensions. I'd like to order them in bulk on Amazon. Maybe find a screw with a hex head, instead of an easily stripped Phillips head.

Orbea offers the cover and three screw for sale in the spare parts section for $38.00. You have to buy the cover to get the screws. ( MOTOR PROTECTOR EP8 RS )

*SHIMANO PARTS DIAGRAM*









*ORBEA WEBSITE SPARE PARTS PICTURE*


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yup posted the same thing a few pages back, on a rock roller nearly ripped it off the front screw had come out and the cover was hanging down slightly. The other 2 were loose as well, I did find some allen head screws just like you said in my misc. bolts/screws bin and replaced them, put liberal amount of loctite on and have kept an eye on them but they have stayed tight. 

I'm still considering a skid basher but not sure if everything will fit right down there


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

kragu said:


> Large. I'm 5'10" with same 30.5 inseam and it's perfect.


Hmm, yeah I question the way this industry sizes bikes. In 2016 I was riding a medium 2015 TR Scout with a 432mm reach. My 2020 large has a reach of 485mm. That's more than 2 inches longer. Sure I can safely roll down a gnarly chute after two beers and three hours of riding but bunny hops require me to lengthen myself like I'm trying to achieve some perfect yoga pose. Would be nice to throw a leg over both sizes. I rode a Revel Rail that also had a 450mm reach (med Rise) and recall it generally working out, maybe wanting it a tad bit longer... stem could fix that.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Tickle said:


> Yup posted the same thing a few pages back, on a rock roller nearly ripped it off the front screw had come out and the cover was hanging down slightly. The other 2 were loose as well, I did find some allen head screws just like you said in my misc. bolts/screws bin and replaced them, put liberal amount of loctite on and have kept an eye on them but they have stayed tight.
> 
> I'm still considering a skid basher but not sure if everything will fit right down there.


Have you seen this? It's formed on there without any screws to hold it in place.








RISE (Carbon)







rockguardz.com


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## Rod B. (Jul 28, 2021)

Tickle, I went through my bike toolbox junk drawer looking for screws but came up empty. I'm heading down to the hardware store today. Hopefully they have something. Why Shimano would use such a small screw to hold something so important on, beats the hell out of me.

I'm in the same boat as you regarding the motor cover protector. My buddies and I did some rocky, black diamond trails yesterday and my cover took some hits. I've found the Rise likes to bottom out on tech stuff. I think the motor protector cover is going to be one of those things we'll have to replace annually or as needed. On a positive note, Shimano hasn't applied a mountain bike tax to the part...it's only $38.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Ripbird said:


> Have you seen this? It's formed on there without any screws to hold it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have not thx for that might just pick one up!


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## wgnDrvr (Nov 12, 2010)

Brought home a coal blue M10 yesterday and immediately started on the parts swap from a Rascal I built last year. Everything is moving over except suspension. Hopefully ready for a ride soon.

Question I have is whether anyone has repositioned the box to a better spot? I saw one YouTube video where the guy moved it under his bar near the stem and it looked pretty clean. This bike has such a great clean look, the box flapping around out front seems the only miss.


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## Rod B. (Jul 28, 2021)

Rod B. said:


> While riding yesterday, I lightly bottomed out my Rise on a dirt berm. After the ride, I checked the lower black plastic motor protector cover. The cover was fine, but I noticed one of the three screws which hold the plastic cover in place had fallen out. The other two screws, were loose. The screws are very small Phillips head metric machine screws. The motor cover is rugged, but the tiny screws holding the cover in place, are not. It's a design weakness. I have a feeling it's going to be an ongoing issue trying to keep the screws in place.
> 
> I checked Shimano's website. The part number for cover replacement screws is Y7HC98030. Shimano doesn't provide the screw dimensions. I've written Orbea and have asked for the screw dimensions. I'd like to order them in bulk on Amazon. Maybe find a screw with a hex head, instead of an easily stripped Phillips head.
> 
> ...





Rod B. said:


> While riding yesterday, I lightly bottomed out my Rise on a dirt berm. After the ride, I checked the lower black plastic motor protector cover. The cover was fine, but I noticed one of the three screws which hold the plastic cover in place had fallen out. The other two screws, were loose. The screws are very small Phillips head metric machine screws. The motor cover is rugged, but the tiny screws holding the cover in place, are not. It's a design weakness. I have a feeling it's going to be an ongoing issue trying to keep the screws in place.
> 
> I checked Shimano's website. The part number for cover replacement screws is Y7HC98030. Shimano doesn't provide the screw dimensions. I've written Orbea and have asked for the screw dimensions. I'd like to order them in bulk on Amazon. Maybe find a screw with a hex head, instead of an easily stripped Phillips head.
> 
> ...


For those who have lost a motor cover screw. The replacement screw is 3M x 6mm. Shimano uses a Phillips head screw. The Phillips screw strips easily. I purchased 3M-6MM stainless steel hex socket head screws on Amazon. A drop of blue lock tight and I haven't had anymore issues.

Amazon Link
iExcell 100 Pcs M3 x 6 mm Stainless Steel 304 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Recently upgraded the M20 spec Fox susp to Lyrik 150 and Super deluxe shock. WAY better, fork is a lot stiffer no more noodle in the chunk, plush off the top and better ride height. Same for the shock, better support and not as harsh, the Fox susp was just harsh in comparison. Not knocking Fox but the stuff spec'd was not up to snuff!


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## Zebra S.A. (Aug 6, 2021)

Rod B. said:


> For those who have lost a motor cover screw. The replacement screw is 3M x 6mm. Shimano uses a Phillips head screw. The Phillips screw strips easily. I purchased 3M-6MM stainless steel hex socket head screws on Amazon. A drop of blue lock tight and I haven't had anymore issues.
> 
> Amazon Link
> iExcell 100 Pcs M3 x 6 mm Stainless Steel 304 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> ...


I cannot be sure, but I SUSPECT that those Philips screws' a few people are stripping are ACTUALLY J.I.S., Japanese Industrial Standard, which looks 95% near-identical to Philips, but with one major difference: jis vs philips - Google Search


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## littlev21 (Oct 4, 2018)

anybody actually have a success story of getting their Rise (m10-xl) on time. July 12, then August 9, then September 9th.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

littlev21 said:


> anybody actually have a success story of getting their Rise (m10-xl) on time. July 12, then August 9, then September 9th.


My M-Team pushed a month from the original date (early April to early May), and my wife's M-20 pushed a month from the original date (mid-June to mid-July), but both came in on one of the updated dates. Purchased both from Bike Bling, in CA.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Anyone used a head angle adjust on their bike? I'm used to 64 deg. Was watching some videos of a mullet setup but I wouldn't want to slacken the SA anymore.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Another Q... any owners of a medium or large willing to measure the center of the bottom bracket to the imaginary center line between the grips (probably an inch or two behind the bars)? I can't find one of these bikes, or an Occam, to measure myself... and calculating it based on specs is not easy. My other bikes are about 78cm.








Dialing in your bike setup step 1: Make it RAD - Lee Likes Bikes


This article is adapted from the book Dialed and ran on Pinkbike. It lays out the most important aspect of mountain bike fit and setup. I hope you find it helpful! When it comes to mountain bike setup, the most important measurement is the distance between your bottom bracket and your grips. I...




www.leelikesbikes.com


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

fitek said:


> Another Q... any owners of a medium or large willing to measure the center of the bottom bracket to the imaginary center line between the grips (probably an inch or two behind the bars)? I can't find one of these bikes, or an Occam, to measure myself... and calculating it based on specs is not easy. My other bikes are about 78cm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


82cm on my Large

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Thanks! that's very useful. My too large (but all I could get during COVID) current MTB is 83cm. On spec sheet, +10mm reach but -10mm stack vs the large Rise... so it sounded like it even out, but I guess it doesn't. I'll go medium, then.


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## waltaz (Oct 14, 2004)

fitek said:


> Thanks! that's very useful. My too large (but all I could get during COVID) current MTB is 83cm. On spec sheet, +10mm reach but -10mm stack vs the large Rise... so it sounded like it even out, but I guess it doesn't. I'll go medium, then.


And I forgot that I just got a Medium for my 5'5" wife, and that measurement is 80cm. She is happy with that sizing, though it is slightly larger than her Small SC Blur.

FWIW, this measurement on my Large Yeti SB115 is also 82cm, but the Rise actually feels slightly more compact. I am 5'10" with a 32" inseam, and definitely feel a Medium would be too small and tight for me.

Hope that all helps!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Thanks again! You might try checking the reach, stack, and ETT of that Yeti (450/628/630-- same reach as Rise medium but 15mm taller and a nearly 40mm extra top tube length!) . Some bikes are shorter but taller, then seat angle affects roominess when seated (hence I look at ETT-- I've owned from 580 to 630). I played around with spacers and 15mm vs 30mm rise bars and moved the RAD measurement around 2cm with different combos (more spacers increases stack, but brings the bars & reach backward/down, etc). There's also a personal choice thing involved-- I've been riding that large frame for a year and still really like the bike. The length makes it super stable but "flickable" (or whatever you like to call it) it is not. It is really comfy climbing seated. But I noticed when I demoed a Norco ebike that uphill fit wasn't as important as my analog bikes, but downhill I was really feeling the bike is way too planted and stable for my taste. I rode my slopestyle bike (with a RAD of 77cm!) down the mountain yesterday just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind. It was more fun on smooth and flowey, neutral on average blue runs, scarier on steep and chunky. Since I like flow trails the best, I'd rather optimize that experience.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

fitek said:


> Another Q... any owners of a medium or large willing to measure the center of the bottom bracket to the imaginary center line between the grips (probably an inch or two behind the bars)? I can't find one of these bikes, or an Occam, to measure myself... and calculating it based on specs is not easy. My other bikes are about 78cm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My L is roughly 83cm. Oops, I didn't see the answer above, but we're close.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

I drove to Seattle and threw a leg over a medium m20 Occam. Felt great, so I sold my car (that I never drive anymore, since I WFH) and ordered an m10 Rise. There was one in stock! there's another at Evo in Denver. I'm not sure how I'm going to break this to my wife though.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Built up the Rise and first ride last night. In flip flops, no helmet, and some cheesy Walmart pedals, still fun. Thoughts:
1) Build is very good. Thought I'd swap out the brakes to my Formula Curas (very good modulation) but these newer XT brakes are much better than the ones I had before. I usually switch bars, grips, stem and all that and this is my first time actually liking the cockpit on a stock bike.
2) The dropper is too short. Should be a 175 (IIRC this is what Transition specs on their medium bikes and it makes sense). I don't know why you wouldn't want a dropper to slam your seat with the low stack heights of modern droppers. OneUp, for example, is easy to shorten travel, so might as well spec a long dropper and let customer or shop shorten travel if needed. Instead I have to buy another dropper (or steal the one off the bike I'm going to sell, I guess).
3) Medium is spot on. Thanks for those that measured RAD! Much easier to throw this bike around than my Large Transition Scout, even though its 30% heavier and 29er wheels. Geometry always wins. I can see a larger size working if you want to keep the bike on the ground all the time, but I wanted this bike specifically because it isn't a full throttle barge.
4) I'm used to 64deg HA and didn't flinch descending fairly gnarly stuff with no protective gear and sandals. 
4) The charger is funny. It's the same no brand thing I'd see from China on cheesy ebikes ten years ago. I'm not expecting it to last forever.
5) I've already let my friend borrow it. It's infectious.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

My phone app angle finder thingy shows 65 HA w/my Lyrik 150/DHF combo, the published 65.5 number is probably correct w/Fox 36 and Dissector front tire. I wouldn't want any longer wheelbase tho, 50" on my XL. I've swapped out nearly everything from my M20 spec, still need to change out brakes but right now just the frame/seatpost/brakes and drivetrain are stock, and I've already replaced worn cass/chain, got 5 months out of stock stuff.

Enjoy the ride post some pics!


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Better and worse than pics, I threw together a video


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

I went for a four hour ride. This bike is amazing, hitting stuff I thought I'd have to build up to on the first go. It's been pouring rain since but there's a break next two days so I'll try and get some more shenanigans in.


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## starre (Sep 21, 2004)

Hi - I really like the concept behind this e-bike. However, I noted in an Orbea Rise review that stated: "You do need to pay closer attention to cadence, 75-90RPM being the optimal range for the EP8-RS motor". I went back and checked some my old cadence data and my average cadence was 64 rpm (2 hrs riding, 25 to 30 km length, roughly 350 to 450 meters climbing). I really haven't changed my pedaling rate in 15 years and don't plan to do so; so my question is to you guys with the Rise - are you having to up your cadence to the 75-90 RPM level to make the bike work effectively? thanks for any input!!


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

No I don't think so, I'm more of a gear masher lower cadence rider and only thing I've noticed is sometimes in trail, and more so in boost mode which I'm rarely in, you will feel the motor pull you along at lower RPM. The power delivery is smoother or more natural feeling at higher RPM's maybe, but you can adjust how quick the motor kicks in once you start pedaling. I haven't played with that setting it's set a full fast by default but that might help?


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## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

starre said:


> Hi - I really like the concept behind this e-bike. However, I noted in an Orbea Rise review that stated: "You do need to pay closer attention to cadence, 75-90RPM being the optimal range for the EP8-RS motor". I went back and checked some my old cadence data and my average cadence was 64 rpm (2 hrs riding, 25 to 30 km length, roughly 350 to 450 meters climbing). I really haven't changed my pedaling rate in 15 years and don't plan to do so; so my question is to you guys with the Rise - are you having to up your cadence to the 75-90 RPM level to make the bike work effectively? thanks for any input!!


I haven't ridden the Rize, but many other Ebikes. They all have their perfect cadence zone and the motor works more efficiently at that cadence.

64 is pretty low and you'll make all the ebike motors work harder than needed and some motors don't like this. Personally, if getting an ebike, I would try to get your cadence up to at least 80. All the bikes will be fine at that cadence, they just won't be as efficient.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

So at lower cadence the motor will use more battery power? I've had pretty decent range but maybe not as good as some, I climb at higher cadence tho.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

I find myself in this 75-90 rpm zone just under standard/normal pedaling. I only go above 90 when I pedal super fast at high cadence as I approach and start up steep incline. I have bad knees and only have been riding once a week, so I’m not the strongest peddler either. I would have to barely pedal to be under 75 rpm.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I don't measure my RPM's but I was curious so yesterday did a little test on a flat pedally section and a mild climb and just tried to pedal my normal cadence. I was at 68 on the flat section and 78 on the climb. I did feel the motor tug a little a couple times on the flat section but never felt the power delivery on the climb, I was in trail mode for both. So guess the higher cadence is better but this seems like more of a non issue unless your really concerned about battery consumption


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

I've found that if I pedal at the same cadence (say 85rpm) for a period of time at the same grade and power, the motor kind of gets "stuck" or maybe bored and stops assisting as much. If I back-pedal it seems to sort of wake it up and gets it going again. Anyone else notice this? My buddy that also has a Rise noticed this too.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

First ride down Mohawk on Galby, here's the lower section. I didn't really trust these tires on greasy wet smooth trail. They aren't as bad as I've seen people complaining but there's so much less knob than my DHF/DHR. I did do more sliding over wet roots than I like on gnarlier trails. Mohawk is smooth though.

__
http://instagr.am/p/CUYVZVABOAO/

I installed a OneUp 210mm dropper post in this medium frame. I have 1 3/4 inches of the post above the seat tube. I can push it in a little further, about 1/4-1/2 inch. It would actually fit even further into the frame but the power button pops out of the frame due to the cable hitting the plastic around the edge of the power button.


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## TJONE12345 (Jun 1, 2021)

BmanInTheD said:


> I've found that if I pedal at the same cadence (say 85rpm) for a period of time at the same grade and power, the motor kind of gets "stuck" or maybe bored and stops assisting as much. If I back-pedal it seems to sort of wake it up and gets it going again. Anyone else notice this? My buddy that also has a Rise noticed this too.


At what speed does this occur? Felt this several times when riding 30 min and up. Maybe speed sensor?


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

TJONE12345 said:


> At what speed does this occur? Felt this several times when riding 30 min and up. Maybe speed sensor?



I have not noticed this, but it doesn't mean it's not happening. Most of my riding is a lot of up and down so speed and cadence is not steady for a long time at all. I'll have to give it a go on a long steady uphill to see if I notice it.


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## TJONE12345 (Jun 1, 2021)

Maybe it’s a combo software and or sensor. Feels like when your older car, motorcycle or snowmobile gets the wrong fuel air mixture and gets muted and sour…


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

TJONE12345 said:


> At what speed does this occur? Felt this several times when riding 30 min and up. Maybe speed sensor?


I've only noticed it on long road or fire road climbs at maybe 10-12mph. Only happens when riding at a consistent output level (from the motor) and cadence. No big deal really, I just mix up the cadence or back-pedal and it disappears.


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## TJONE12345 (Jun 1, 2021)

Hmm it might be the tourque sensor in the SP8


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

Expecting to get my M20 in a couple of weeks. I bought an SC m8000 display and will probably add code RSC brakes. I’ll see how the suspension and drive train feel before doing any additional mods


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I got an m20 for my wife 2 weeks ago. At this point, I've gotten all of the parts swapped over from her previous bike and we've got a couple of rides on it. This thing is such a great bike, that I really really want one now. 

Regarding to items specific to the m20 model. Overall it's awesome build for what is one of the best deals in ebikes imo. The wheels are boat anchor heavy, but no doubt will be reliable. The slx drivetrain is a great choice for this price point and the oem bars, stem, grips and seatpost are good enough that it'll suffice for most people. At this point, I've swapped out everything but the fork, shock, brakes and seatpost. I'll swap the brakes out for something with a bit more power, but I'm pretty impressed by the stock, non-series dual piston (single depending on how you look at it) brakes right out of the gate.


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

I've had my Medium M10 for a little over 2 months now, the more I ride it the more I love this bike. Here are the mods I've done to it so far:

XTR GS Derailleur, XTR 12sp 10-46 Cassette and XTR Chain (swapped over from my 2019 Bronson)
Shimano Icetech Rotors 203 Front 180 Rear
Maxxis Assega 3C EXO on the front, moved stock Dissector to the rear
Shimano SC-EM800 Display
WTB Volt Carbon Saddle
ODI AG-2 Grips

Suspension Mods:
160mm Air Spring in the stock Fox 36
Swapped stock shock with a Fox DPX2 216x63 (8.5"x2.5"). Running two offset bushings, that reduce the eye-to-eye to 213. The 160 spring raised the front 8mm and the shock raised the rear 6mm and kept the rest of the Geo numbers close to stock.

This setup is perfect for me. I love steep technical climbing and the stock BB height was a little on the low side to prevent pedal strikes. The added BB height resulted in very few to no pedal strikes, but is still at a good trail height that does not affect handling (I measured it at 341mm). I'm at 160mm travel front and back now. The stock suspension on the M10 was very impressive, but the setup I have now is awesome. I had seen some other Rise owners do the same shock size swap but went with a 27.5" rear wheel. I liked the 29" wheel in the back, so that is why I went the offset bushing route.


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

minimusprime said:


> I got an m20 for my wife 2 weeks ago. At this point, I've gotten all of the parts swapped over from her previous bike and we've got a couple of rides on it. This thing is such a great bike, that I really really want one now.
> 
> Regarding to items specific to the m20 model. Overall it's awesome build for what is one of the best deals in ebikes imo. The wheels are boat anchor heavy, but no doubt will be reliable. The slx drivetrain is a great choice for this price point and the oem bars, stem, grips and seatpost are good enough that it'll suffice for most people. At this point, I've swapped out everything but the fork, shock, brakes and seatpost. I'll swap the brakes out for something with a bit more power, but I'm pretty impressed by the stock, non-series dual piston (single depending on how you look at it) brakes right out of the gate.


I have an M20 on the way. Can I ask what wheels you are using. I didn’t think the Raceface ARs were particularly heavy.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Your right they aren't that bad, I swapped to a set of DT350/Derby AM wheels I had on my previous bike and between the wheels and tubeless setup shaved 2lbs, but probably half that was the tubeless conversion. The rims seemed pretty nice just kind of low end centerlock hubs, which sucks if you want to upgrade to bigger rotors now then wheels later cause you'll probably have to do new rotors again for 6 bolt


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

underblu said:


> I have an M20 on the way. Can I ask what wheels you are using. I didn’t think the Raceface ARs were particularly heavy.


I've got her on a parts bin special wheelset at the moment. It's based on a dt350 hubs, and a 30iw carbon front hoop and a dt ex511 rear hoop. Originally, this wheelset was carbon hoops front and rear from a mfg I used to race enduro for... Bad line choice at a race at mammoth bike park ended the rear carbon wheel so I just re-laced it. The stock wheels on the m10 are surprisingly heavy and an upgrade to these would be one of the first things I targeted if it were my bike. 

For me, it was important to get rid of the shimano drivetrain, and get eagle on it, as the other 5 bikes in my stable are all eagle based. The stock hubs make that a pain, as they are shimano and xd isn't an option. Not a bad deal if you're a shimano fan, but I am very much not, so getting this changed out was pretty important.


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

I have an M20 due to ship next week. 

I received the Shimano EC 800 cycle display and I’m waiting on Sram Code RSCs front and rear. Those upgrades I’m doing straightaway.

I’m going to see how I get along with the SLX drivetrain before upgrading to an XT or SRAM X01

Maybe I’ll swap out the wheelset and hubs if I can get something significantly lighter for around $1000


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

underblu said:


> I have an M20 due to ship next week.
> 
> I received the Shimano EC 800 cycle display and I’m waiting on Sram Code RSCs front and rear. Those upgrades I’m doing straightaway.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't upgrade to XT from SLX, that's just wasted money in my opinion. Shimano to Sram is just personal preference. I actually like the way shimano is a bit easier to shift under power, especially for ebike usage. However, I just prefer the feel and setup of the sram stuff, plus being able to mix/match wheelsets in my fleet with every bike on the same drivetrain, rotors and axle spacing is a huge plus. 

Certainly, your focus on the brakes and wheels is very appropriate for what I think are the weaker links on the package. I'd add seat to the mix as well as the stock fizik seat is terrible, maybe tires too depending on your location. Here in socal with our loose over hard, the dissector in front is a bit sketchy for a bike as capable as this one.


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

minimusprime said:


> I wouldn't upgrade to XT from SLX, that's just wasted money in my opinion. Shimano to Sram is just personal preference. I actually like the way shimano is a bit easier to shift under power, especially for ebike usage. However, I just prefer the feel and setup of the sram stuff, plus being able to mix/match wheelsets in my fleet with every bike on the same drivetrain, rotors and axle spacing is a huge plus.
> 
> Certainly, your focus on the brakes and wheels is very appropriate for what I think are the weaker links on the package. I'd add seat to the mix as well as the stock fizik seat is terrible, maybe tires too depending on your location. Here in socal with our loose over hard, the dissector in front is a bit sketchy for a bike as capable as this one.


Thanks for the info particularly regarding XT/SLX. I have the SRAM GX Eagle on my Heckler MX-S and it’s competent but not particularly smooth. If I stay with SRAM I’ll probably try the X01 to see if it’s a bit smoother under load

. 
I’m not surprised about the seat. It seems that some of these ebike manufacturers choose very uncomfortable seats for what must be considered fairly pricey bikes. I hated the stock seat on my Heckler MX-S and replaced it with a Tioga stratum undercover carbon which I love. Unfortunately, I can’t find another one in stock. I have a couple of very comfortable Selle Italia seats as standbys which I will use for the Rise. 

Congrats on your Rise, looking forward to getting mine.


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## DtEW (Jun 14, 2004)

underblu said:


> I have an M20 due to ship next week.
> 
> I received the Shimano EC 800 cycle display and I’m waiting on Sram Code RSCs front and rear. Those upgrades I’m doing straightaway.
> 
> ...


I'd hang onto the SLX. The SLX cassette is better-suited to eMTBs (fewer aluminum cogs), and the SLX shifter isn't prone to the failures that have been plaguing the XT version with many people waiting for warranty replacements. Even the rear derailleur doesn't scream out for XT if you just upgrade the pulleys (the SLX pulleys ride on bushings that, although works fine... will have greater runout play over time); the remainder of the difference is weight (~10%, 32g) via steel-instead-of-aluminum being used for a couple of components, and the ability to adjust the clutch without removing a cover. But it will be worth opting for an XT chain for better durability when you need a new one.


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Anyone had the switch unit stop working? I can still change the assist level with the button on the LED display. Switch unit buttons just didn't do anything all of a sudden this weekend when I went for a ride.

I took the m10 to Whistler last week. It fared better than my 27.5 bike, but the washboard and braking bumps are still brutal on popular trails like A-line. I'll probably rent a DH bike next time though.

EDIT: so I guess you can disconnect the switch unit from the LED. In my case the connector just came loose. I tried to pull the rubber housing off and the whole plug fell out. Just plugged it back in.


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## monstertiki (Jun 1, 2009)

fitek said:


> Anyone had the switch unit stop working? I can still change the assist level with the button on the LED display. Switch unit buttons just didn't do anything all of a sudden this weekend when I went for a ride.
> 
> I took the m10 to Whistler last week. It fared better than my 27.5 bike, but the washboard and braking bumps are still brutal on popular trails like A-line. I'll probably rent a DH bike next time though.


Check your connection at the led dongle it pulls out sometimes


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yup happened to me on one of my first rides was cursing the bike thought the electronics weren't up to the task. I've been meaning to ditch the little junction box and go with a display but I also use a garmin unit and have been upgrading other stuff first still need to do a brake upgrade.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

My poor Orbea Rise isn't getting ridden much lately. Two rides in about 4 months. I'm going to put it up for sale soon - it's a medium LTD, upgraded to Fox 36 and DPX2, upgraded display/grips. Not many miles or hours on it. If anyone is interested, hit me up on DM before I post it for sale.


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

RickBullottaPA said:


> My poor Orbea Rise isn't getting ridden much lately. Two rides in about 4 months. I'm going to put it up for sale soon - it's a medium LTD, upgraded to Fox 36 and DPX2, upgraded display/grips. Not many miles or hours on it. If anyone is interested, hit me up on DM before I post it for sale.


I wish I had seen this before I ordered mine. How come so few rides? I’ve heard mostly good things about it.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

underblu said:


> I wish I had seen this before I ordered mine. How come so few rides? I’ve heard mostly good things about it.


I like the bike a lot. I got back into training for MTB and gravel racing and the eMTB just sat in the basement for months. I also was using the eMTB to hang with a faster group on a weekly ride and I'm able to keep up now on the regular MTB. I guess that's a good thing!


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

Hey folks suddenly today after driving 5 hours my Rise developed some creaking under load. I think I can feel it in the drivetrain. Only thing different today than any other day is that I removed the rear wheel for the first time since assembly so I could transport it in the car. I see there's a torque spec, not sure how important it is... (obviously trail side, hours from home, I've got a multi tool, not a torque wrench...). Ideas?


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I've taken my rear wheel off a number of times always just tightened it down good, no torque spec or anything and all has been fine. Maybe the drive side concentric pivot isn't lined up correctly?, the chainstay and seatstay actually separate when I remove the rear wheel on mine. The other side stays connected, have wondered if that was the norm??


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## fitek (Nov 25, 2014)

I removed the wheel and reinstalled it with less force and lubed the chain. Sound went away. 

I haven't been on my non-eMTB since I got the Rise. Going on Pinkbike shortly...


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## TJONE12345 (Jun 1, 2021)

I have been riding my M10 XL for roughly 800 km with no issues so far. I’m 6.1” 185 cm and 54 years. The only mod I’ve done is a 40 mm stem and 40 mm Fatbar 780 mm bar. For wet season in middle of Sweden Schwalbe Magic Mary and Nobby Nics. Will prob buy indoor trainer for winter season.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

fitek said:


> Hey folks suddenly today after driving 5 hours my Rise developed some creaking under load. I think I can feel it in the drivetrain. Only thing different today than any other day is that I removed the rear wheel for the first time since assembly so I could transport it in the car. I see there's a torque spec, not sure how important it is... (obviously trail side, hours from home, I've got a multi tool, not a torque wrench...). Ideas?


Mine did the same. It was a combination of the rear axle/pivots making a little noise, but the real culprit was the main lower pivot - it had worked itself loose somehow. I backed out the expander bolt/plug, then the axle itself, and lubed/applied threadlocker/retorqued everything. Runs silent now. It is a bit challenging to get at the bolt(s) because of the location of the cable routing, but I managed to get it sorted without breaking anything.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Whew, i've got a rise M10 coming in that had a glimmer of hope to come in this week, but alas, looking like mid to end of november. I've been staring at my wife's in the garage caressing/coveting it when she's not around to see. I realize I'm a grown ass man and I shouldn't hang happiness on a material possession, but I'd be lying if I acted like this doesn't feel like waiting for christmas. Definitely stoked to start exploring random trails and loops that I've never put together before due to cost of entry and descent at the end. 

This is her bike on it's first day in this world... it has no idea what sort of trouble it's going to be in soon lol.


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## shreddr (Oct 10, 2009)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Mine did the same. It was a combination of the rear axle/pivots making a little noise, but the real culprit was the main lower pivot - it had worked itself loose somehow. I backed out the expander bolt/plug, then the axle itself, and lubed/applied threadlocker/retorqued everything. Runs silent now. It is a bit challenging to get at the bolt(s) because of the location of the cable routing, but I managed to get it sorted without breaking anything.


Check the motor mounts 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

shreddr said:


> Check the motor mounts
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They were tight.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Can you get to the 2 rear motor bolts on the drive side without taking off the chainring?, I was wondering if a a ball end allen would work. Checking those bolts regularly would make me feel better, the others have mostly stayed tight but a couple have needed to be torqued down.


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## brucero (Nov 2, 2016)

Does anyone have any suggestions for where to buy the range extender? Seems to be out of stock everywhere!


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

brucero said:


> Does anyone have any suggestions for where to buy the range extender? Seems to be out of stock everywhere!


I ended up canceling mine because I found I didn't need it. The built-in battery was adequate for the bulk of my rides and the bike is light enough and geared so that I can pedal it home if needed. Decided that I didn't want the extra "just in case" weight.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Anyone drop the motor on their Rise?, any tips appreciated. I need to access the dropper cable, F'd up while shortening the housing to the remote and now it wont feed back into seat tube. Gonna buy the lockring tool to remove chainring and access the drive side bolts, I read the Shimano TL-FC39 is required to fit the e thirteen chainring.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Tickle said:


> Anyone drop the motor on their Rise?, any tips appreciated. I need to access the dropper cable, F'd up while shortening the housing to the remote and now it wont feed back into seat tube. Gonna buy the lockring tool to remove chainring and access the drive side bolts, I read the Shimano TL-FC39 is required to fit the e thirteen chainring.


Keep the back wheel/chain on when you loosen the lock ring. It's reverse threads. Search You tube for removing/installing shimano chainring, ect.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Tickle said:


> Anyone drop the motor on their Rise?, any tips appreciated. I need to access the dropper cable, F'd up while shortening the housing to the remote and now it wont feed back into seat tube. Gonna buy the lockring tool to remove chainring and access the drive side bolts, I read the Shimano TL-FC39 is required to fit the e thirteen chainring.


It is fairly straightforward, but be super careful that you don't pinch the wire that runs from the motor up through the headtube. It's easy to get it out of position at the spot where it exits the headtube area when you're feeding the dropper housing.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Thx I'm keeping the existing housing just need to get the motor out of the way to feed that end back into seat tube, do you have the Park lockring tool? Read it doesn't fit the e thirteen chainring and the Shimano one is required, which is twice the price.

Ripbird- thx for the video that will be helpful, and the reverse thread part!


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## Shipwreck (Dec 19, 2018)

Not sure if this is the place to ask this question, but would love to hear from other Rise owners.
I have a 1st world problem...
My wife surprised me with an M20 this week. This is my first ebike and a size large. All my traditional bikes have been medium frames. I'm about 5' 8" in (173) cm and I wasn't sure if a large would be right for me. According to Orbea's sizing chart I fall into the upper end of medium or the lower end of large. 
I demoed both a medium and a large at the local bike shop to figure it out. The medium felt slightly lighter and more responsive, the large, more planted. The reach is about an inch and a half longer on the large. Overall, I preferred the medium but only slightly. 
To make the decision more difficult, my wife also included a fox 36 fork, carbon bars and short 30 mm stem . 
My dilema is whether to keep the large frame and move forward with modifications, or return the bike for store credit and wait for a currently unavailable medium. There is no eta on when (or if) a size medium will become available.
So, did anyone else fall into this sizing zone when they bought their bike? Did you get used to a larger bike or feel like a medium ended up too small? Some friends have said that with the ebike I won't need to be as far forward over the stem on climbs. So, what do think? Wait it out for a medium, or get used to a large?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Shipwreck said:


> Not sure if this is the place to ask this question, but would love to hear from other Rise owners.
> I have a 1st world problem...
> My wife surprised me with an M20 this week. This is my first ebike and a size large. All my traditional bikes have been medium frames. I'm about 5' 8" in (173) cm and I wasn't sure if a large would be right for me. According to Orbea's sizing chart I fall into the upper end of medium or the lower end of large.
> I demoed both a medium and a large at the local bike shop to figure it out. The medium felt slightly lighter and more responsive, the large, more planted. The reach is about an inch and a half longer on the large. Overall, I preferred the medium but only slightly.
> ...


I'm roughly the same size, and I think you'll be better off with a medium. I ended up with a medium but it felt "wrong" initially due to the steep seat tube angle and extremely short stem. I swapped to a 60mm stem and moved the saddle back to a more normal and comfortable position and the bike fits perfectly. I can throw it around just like my medium Hightower now.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Rick- didn't you have a Shuttle before the Rise?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Flyer said:


> Rick- didn't you have a Shuttle before the Rise?


I did. Also a size medium. That bike always felt a little bigger than a medium, but it was manageable. The guy who bought it from me is about 3 inches taller and it's working OK for him.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

How do you like your Rise compared to the Shuttle? I still have my Shuttle though hardly ride it since I have been riding my Yeti and now my Ripley. I was losing a lot of peak power so switched back and use my Shuttle for recovery rides. I'm thinking about a new e-MTB for long low-medium effort rides...5-6 hours and the typical recovery ride as well. I can't get to that 6-hour mark with the Shuttle. I never use the Boost or Turbo mode either anyway.

EDIT- I'm 6' tall and the Large fits pretty well.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Flyer said:


> How do you like your Rise compared to the Shuttle? I still have my Shuttle though hardly ride it since I have been riding my Yeti and now my Ripley. I was losing a lot of peak power so switched back and use my Shuttle for recovery rides. I'm thinking about a new e-MTB for long low-medium effort rides...5-6 hours and the typical recovery ride as well. I can't get to that 6-hour mark with the Shuttle. I never use the Boost or Turbo mode either anyway.
> 
> EDIT- I'm 6' tall and the Large fits pretty well.


I hardly ride the Rise, but when I do I love it. I had been training a lot so had been on the regular MTB and the gravel bike mostly. I had considered selling the Rise but after getting back on it I decided not to, and to make a point of getting it out once a week or so. It's amazing how much range the Rise gets on the built-in battery. Most of my rides are 2-3 hours and it's more than enough, and provides ample boost. It's a bit more nimble than the Shuttle too. I mostly notice it in the tighter, flowier trails where I don't feel the understeer that I felt with the Shuttle. That said, for the 8-9 pounds of weight savings and the extra range of the Shuttle, I think the Shuttle might be the better option for 5-6 hour rides. Plus, you already own it. ;-)


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

I’m about your height. I have a medium Rise and a large Heckler MX. The reach on both is around 450. The medium Rise feels more nimble. I‘m not sure if that is due to the lighter weight of the Rise or it’s medium geometry. The Heckler is a little more of a handful in tighter maneuvers but it rides beautifully, feels very plush, very stable and is just a wonderfully put together bike.

Really it depends on you riding style, the trails you’re going to hit and how it feels to you. To me it would be the reach of the large Rise which would cause me concern. I think it’s around 470. But if it feels good to you that’s all that matters. 



Shipwreck said:


> Not sure if this is the place to ask this question, but would love to hear from other Rise owners.
> I have a 1st world problem...
> My wife surprised me with an M20 this week. This is my first ebike and a size large. All my traditional bikes have been medium frames. I'm about 5' 8" in (173) cm and I wasn't sure if a large would be right for me. According to Orbea's sizing chart I fall into the upper end of medium or the lower end of large.
> I demoed both a medium and a large at the local bike shop to figure it out. The medium felt slightly lighter and more responsive, the large, more planted. The reach is about an inch and a half longer on the large. Overall, I preferred the medium but only slightly.
> ...


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## Shipwreck (Dec 19, 2018)

RickBullottaPA said:


> I'm roughly the same size, and I think you'll be better off with a medium. I ended up with a medium but it felt "wrong" initially due to the steep seat tube angle and extremely short stem. I swapped to a 60mm stem and moved the saddle back to a more normal and comfortable position and the bike fits perfectly. I can throw it around just like my medium Hightower now.





underblu said:


> I’m about your height. I have a medium Rise and a large Heckler MX. The reach on both is around 450. The medium Rise feels more nimble. I‘m not sure if that is due to the lighter weight of the Rise or it’s medium geometry. The Heckler is a little more of a handful in tighter maneuvers but it rides beautifully, feels very plush, very stable and is just a wonderfully put together bike.
> 
> Really it depends on you riding style, the trails you’re going to hit and how it feels to you. To me it would be the reach of the large Rise which would cause me concern. I think it’s around 470. But if it feels good to you that’s all that matters.


Thanks for the feedback guys. It was a difficult decision, but I returned the large Rise. 
I'm pretty sure the medium will fit my riding style better; but now there are literally no medium frames in the M20 build in the country. The bike I returned sold within minutes of me returning it to the shop.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Shipwreck said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys. It was a difficult decision, but I returned the large Rise.
> I'm pretty sure the medium will fit my riding style better; but now there are literally no medium frames in the M20 build in the country. The bike I returned sold within minutes of me returning it to the shop.


FYI, I called a couple of my sources and couldn't find one either. There are a number of medium LTD's in stock - but that's another $3000 list price.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

RickBullottaPA said:


> I hardly ride the Rise, but when I do I love it. I had been training a lot so had been on the regular MTB and the gravel bike mostly. I had considered selling the Rise but after getting back on it I decided not to, and to make a point of getting it out once a week or so. It's amazing how much range the Rise gets on the built-in battery. Most of my rides are 2-3 hours and it's more than enough, and provides ample boost. It's a bit more nimble than the Shuttle too. I mostly notice it in the tighter, flowier trails where I don't feel the understeer that I felt with the Shuttle. That said, for the 8-9 pounds of weight savings and the extra range of the Shuttle, I think the Shuttle might be the better option for 5-6 hour rides. Plus, you already own it. ;-)


You're a smart guy! I can't get 5-hour rides on the Shuttle though. I think it tops out at 35 miles max and around 3K or 30 miles and 3.5K. I need to try it again though, and use ECO more instead of TRAIL. I do have an extra battery but it is a beast to carry and getting that cover's holes lined up again is a real painful experience, for some reason. So with something like the Rise or Levo SL, I could have the main battery plus the extender and even carry an extra extender for those longer days. Just thinking through it...prob a lot wiser to stick with the Shuttle and make it work.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Flyer said:


> You're a smart guy! I can't get 5-hour rides on the Shuttle though. I think it tops out at 35 miles max and around 3K or 30 miles and 3.5K. I need to try it again though, and use ECO more instead of TRAIL. I do have an extra battery but it is a beast to carry and getting that cover's holes lined up again is a real painful experience, for some reason. So with something like the Rise or Levo SL, I could have the main battery plus the extender and even carry an extra extender for those longer days. Just thinking through it...prob a lot wiser to stick with the Shuttle and make it work.


Yeah, I bought a second battery for the Shuttle and never used it because it was such a PITA to swap out.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I'll practice a few times this winter while I keep the bike indoors instead of the garage. Maybe practice will make it less of a risky affair on the trail. With the 27.5+ wheels and 3.0 tires, it is grippy and fun bike. Even though I rode it only 2-3 times this year, I'll try to do better now that the primary season is over.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Flyer said:


> I'll practice a few times this winter while I keep the bike indoors instead of the garage. Maybe practice will make it less of a risky affair on the trail. With the 27.5+ wheels and 3.0 tires, it is grippy and fun bike. Even though I rode it only 2-3 times this year, I'll try to do better now that the primary season is over.


Invest in a pair of these bad boys for the winter:

Wrathchild Trail 27.5 Studded Bike Tire | 45NRTH 

Just make sure to get a box of extra studs + the stud tool since you'll lose a couple each ride. But man, it is fun AF to be out on an eMTB in the ice and snow!


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

RickBullottaPA said:


> FYI, I called a couple of my sources and couldn't find one either. There are a number of medium LTD's in stock - but that's another $3000 list price.


I would’ve preferred the LTD but at the time there were no Rises at all so when an M20 popped up I jumped on it. 
You have to be vigilant and check out any bike stores that are dealers for Orbea and will ship.

Since the frame on all current Rise models is the same, it’s always possible to upgrade the components to a higher/ different spec. .


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Aluminum rise incoming within the next few (2ish weeks). +5-6 lbs of weight... slightly bigger battery. Sounds like similar build outs with a 34 - 140mm model that will be similar to the m20 with deore and a model that will be a tweener to the m10 with a 36 either rhythm or grip. No more specifics then that. Sounds like an interesting option if the price point comes in below the m20. Hard to see a better value in ebikes at the moment then a 5-6k aluminum rise with a slightly bigger battery so that those buyers won't feel the need to have the range extender.

Me, I'd rather prefer the lighter weight, less integrated battery with the range extender option. For my usage, only having to carry the weight in battery that my ride plans need is one of the biggest draws to this platform. However, hard to think that justifying the cash for a full weight/power ebike would be worth it if this thing is coming in 30% under bottom tier santacruz ebike prices.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Wonder if the slightly bigger battery will fit the current Rise?, that would be a nice upgrade and maybe unlocking the extra torque, altho I rarely use the 60nm of torque in boost mode.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Tickle said:


> Wonder if the slightly bigger battery will fit the current Rise?, that would be a nice upgrade and maybe unlocking the extra torque, altho I rarely use the 60nm of torque in boost mode.


I'm 90% sure the answer to that is no. The battery would need to be either longer or wider. Wider isn't going to fit in the rise carbon frame, and longer would only potentially work on the XL sizes, maybe large.


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## underblu (Aug 24, 2021)

Each motor manufacturer should have standardized modular batteries that could be added in increments of 250kw. 

You could go from a short ripping ride with 250kw to a half day exploration with 750kw. The current system of proprietary inflexible battery systems is ridiculous imho. 

Hopefully a bike mfg will step up to the plate as a modular battery system would be incredibly compelling. You could go from a lightweigh ebike to a full fat one just by changing the batteries


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## vmakuc (Dec 5, 2012)

Lightweigh ebike is not just a battery. Lightweigh ebike is a whole design from the very beginning.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Has anyone heard of an updated carbon version of the Rise? Im about to pull the trigger on one but holding back incase theyre about to release something new. I see they just updated the colors on the Wild yesterday.


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## pwd666 (Nov 9, 2021)

underblu said:


> Each motor manufacturer should have standardized modular batteries that could be added in increments of 250kw.
> 
> You could go from a short ripping ride with 250kw to a half day exploration with 750kw. The current system of proprietary inflexible battery systems is ridiculous imho.
> 
> Hopefully a bike mfg will step up to the plate as a modular battery system would be incredibly compelling. You could go from a lightweigh ebike to a full fat one just by changing the batteries


250kw? That's a lot of power for an e-bike!  Just to correct you; it is watt hours (wh) as a measurement of capacity. I agree; proprietary systems suck. Some factory e-bikes use a common "Reention Dorado" style battery mount that allows you to purchase a larger (or smaller) pack. You'll likely never see that on any of the big bike brands though.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

evan9r said:


> Has anyone heard of an updated carbon version of the Rise? Im about to pull the trigger on one but holding back incase theyre about to release something new. I see they just updated the colors on the Wild yesterday.


What would they change? I don't see any major modifications. It's an up-to-date drivetrain and geometry and in a segment with not too many competitors (lighter weight, reduced power). Other than perhaps some improved battery density I can't imagine they'd change much.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Tickle said:


> Anyone drop the motor on their Rise?, any tips appreciated. I need to access the dropper cable, F'd up while shortening the housing to the remote and now it wont feed back into seat tube. Gonna buy the lockring tool to remove chainring and access the drive side bolts, I read the Shimano TL-FC39 is required to fit the e thirteen chainring.


Surgery complete yay! Hardest part was getting the seatpost back in and clamping down the cable to the remote while keeping housing/cable in place correctly at bottom of post. One tip- used an old QR skewer and large washer to keep the lockring tool in place while removing/installing chainring, also while reinstalling chainring I had to bolt up the non drive side crankarm to hold the spindle still while torqueing down lockring


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

A few mods on my M20:
Bomber CR rear shock
XT Cassette
DT XMC 1200 wheels
Fatter grips
SLX brakes except rear caliper which is a Deore M6120 now
Mezzer pro fork
Wolftooth LA dropper lever
Oneup 210mm dropper
Oneup carbon bar cut to 760mm
200mm rotors front and rear
fidlock bottle holder
DMR V12 mg
Nukeproof saddle
Assagai front 2.5
DHR2 rear 2.4
Fender on front
Changed region to US

Looks something like this now:


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

That is a burly "light weight" E-mtb. Tell us the weight and how it rides. 
Are you actually running Shimano 203mm rear rotor? (w/center lock and a magnet)


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

Jack7782 said:


> That is a burly "light weight" E-mtb. Tell us the weight and how it rides.
> Are you actually running Shimano 203mm rear rotor? (w/center lock and a magnet)


Weighs about 20kg maybe a little less. The wheels are super light, so it rides very light imo. The fork is 37mm stanchions but it weighs about the same as a fox 36 and with weight saved on cockpit too.
Saved some weight on the dropper too.
Yes it's a 203 shimano CL rotors with magnet in the back.

I am however considering switching the shock for a Topaz and going mullet. Should be about the same weight since the savings on the shock will offset a heavier alu wheel.


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

Wow - that is indeed light for such a capable bike! Topaz will add green to your bike - that may ruin the awesome look you have now. Why not a new DT rear 27.5 XMC 1200 wheel and swap in a few XTR bits as well? (budget permitting of course)


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

Jack7782 said:


> Wow - that is indeed light for such a capable bike! Topaz will add green to your bike - that may ruin the awesome look you have now. Why not a new DT rear 27.5 XMC 1200 wheel and swap in a few XTR bits as well? (budget permitting of course)


Yeah I'm not too crazy about the green on the topaz, but I am pretty crazy about the performance of it. It's the new version though, so only a few parts are anodized green (the can is black) and I am considering covering green parts with some black tape to not make it stand out.
I already have so many 27.5 wheels that aren't in use so it would feel wasteful to get a brand new XMC 1200 just for this project.
I will swap in at least XT parts as soon as something wears out, but before that I'll probably just ride it like it is.

Super fun and capable bike, and very versatile too when I get an extra set of shock hardware since it can be a 160/160 mm mullet all mtb bike one minute, and a 150/140 29" the next. Shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes to swap the parts, and the fork can be adjusted from 160 to 150 simply be putting on the pump and enlarging the negative air chamber (it's a manitou mezzer thing).


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Can you fit an angle set on this bike?


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## funks (Jun 2, 2007)

Was looking at the Specialized LEVO SL and this bike - tried it out at Mikes Bikes (Pleasanton, California) and they had an L and an XL in stock.

I just wish Orbea would go with S-type sizing similar to Specialized as the'L' is a tad small reach wise, and the 'XL' is just too massive. The reach is less than that of an Ibis Mojo 4 in large, while having the same wheel base as that bike (and that's rolling on 27.5's) - same seat tube angle. Sucks for those people in between sizes, too much $$$ for a bike and would have been nice to get the perfect fitment.

The current LEVO SL also has the same problem (still using the older S,M,L,XL sizing) which I'm sure Specialized will rectify on the next version.


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## mvray (Jul 26, 2007)

Three new Rise models coming with alloy frames and slightly larger battery. Full specs and pricing in a couple days.


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## funks (Jun 2, 2007)

jupitersending said:


> A few mods on my M20:
> Bomber CR rear shock
> XT Cassette
> DT XMC 1200 wheels
> ...


Do you have a Large, or an XL? And was wondering how tall you were.


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

funks said:


> Do you have a Large, or an XL? And was wondering how tall you were.


Large, I'm 182cm and I would not want the bike any bigger since i think it detracts from fun-factor, especially with a heavier bike (even though the Rise isn't heavy for an ebike, it's still a heavy bike). Reach isn't really everything, and since the seat stay is quite steep it shortens the reach, but it makes for a better riding experience nonetheless. I think the notion that reach needs to be a longer and longer is mostly marketing. If you can ride it comfortably without hitting knees and feeling very cramped, it's fine.


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## funks (Jun 2, 2007)

Recently purchased an H30 (receiving it next week) and will be upgrading the front fork to a Mezzer Pro, and the Rear Shock to Mara Pro. Looks like the Shock Rear shock hardware is an M8x21.84 , and M8x15.75. Does anybody know if the aluminum version uses the same hardware? Additionally, did you guys just use the existing hardware from the Fox DPS shock and moved it to the new eyelets of the new shock? Or did you guys buy new mounting hardware that works with DU bushings? (Instead of trying to reuse the IGUS Fox Bushings which may be loose on other brand shocks eyelets).


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

funks said:


> Recently purchased an H30 (receiving it next week) and will be upgrading the front fork to a Mezzer Pro, and the Rear Shock to Mara Pro. Looks like the Shock Rear shock hardware is an M8x21.84 , and M8x15.75. Does anybody know if the aluminum version uses the same hardware? Additionally, did you guys just use the existing hardware from the Fox DPS shock and moved it to the new eyelets of the new shock? Or did you guys buy new mounting hardware that works with DU bushings? (Instead of trying to reuse the IGUS Fox Bushings which may be loose on other brand shocks eyelets).


My hardware is 16.5mm rear and 22mm front. They changed the rear at some point during production from 15.7. I use the fox bushings, also on the DVO Topaz I use.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I swapped to a RS Super deluxe and used all the same hardware from the Fox, pressed out the DU bushing on the RS.


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## Hotline (Aug 21, 2015)

Is it normal to have a clanking sound and engagement play of the pedal by the motor when you guys you guys stop pedaling at around 9-13 mph? I just noticed it yesterday. Ty


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Hotline said:


> Is it normal to have a clanking sound and engagement play of the pedal by the motor when you guys you guys stop pedaling at around 9-13 mph? I just noticed it yesterday. Ty


Yes. Normal.


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Any feedback on running a coil on the bike?


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

zorg said:


> Any feedback on running a coil on the bike?


I like it on mine, but the frame isn't progressive enough to handle really big hits.


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

jupitersending said:


> I like it on mine, but the frame isn't progressive enough to handle really big hits.


Running a progressive coil?


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Heads up for anyone trying to decide on what spec to buy...
Do NOT get the M-TEAM 20mph. I bought it thinking that I would not have to swap anything except the grips. I am about 8 rides in Central Florida and this is where I stand:

Grips swapped (expected)
Brakes need metal pads (even in Florida not enough stopping power when going full speed)
Front brake - ordered 203 rotor and will need adapter as well.
Fox dropper was sticking...had to lube it with fork oil. It is NOT home servicable. Brands I typically ride (BikeYoke, OneUp, PNW) are all easily serviced and opened up.
Tires are a joke. A rekon on an ebike? I gave them a solid change (about 100 miles) but they were holding bike back. Moved the Dissector to the rear with an insert and threw an Assegai up front (luckily a spare tire I had). So much better.
Did raceface pay for the positive reviews on the Turbine R wheelset? No major impacts, and both wheels are wobbling already. Rear wheel has a huge dent, not really sure from what. I've ran hand laced wheels from local builder for years with ZERO issues (even on a hardtail).

So on the top "burlier" build, I'll have to still upgrade brakes, deal with a sticky dropper, swap tires, and swap wheelsets. This really makes that build not worth it. Wish I would have waited and got the new alloy build and added some parts to it (wheels, tires, brakes).

Snapped an XTR chain AND cassette on my ride today on a punchy climb, and I've never seen a cassette do that. Chalking this one as a random issue because shimano has always been solid for me.

Now for the good part...this bike RIPS. Such a fun bike, exactly what I was looking for. On our flat terrain I don't get left by full power bikes. Geo and suspension is dialed. Once you get good tires on it, it rails corners. Definitely recommend the bike, just think that this build kit is lacking.

Edit: Build name M-TEAM 20mph


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

GatorXman said:


> Heads up for anyone trying to decide on what spec to buy...
> Do NOT get the M-team 20. I bought it thinking that I would not have to swap anything except the grips. I am about 8 rides in Central Florida and this is where I stand:
> 
> Grips swapped (expected)
> ...


I've been on the different Rise Forums for over a year now and have owned my M10 since June and your " Do NOT get the M-team 20" is Meh. Most buyers know what they are getting, are perfectly happy with the M20 and upgrade as needed. I ordered my M10 prior to the first price increase and at that time, the M20 was a steal at $6500, but now, not as much.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

Ripbird said:


> I've been on the different Rise Forums for over a year now and have owned my M10 since June and your " Do NOT get the M-team 20" is Meh. Most buyers know what they are getting, are perfectly happy with the M20 and upgrade as needed. I ordered my M10 prior to the first price increase and at that time, the M20 was a steal at $6500, but now, not as much.


I would be perfectly happy upgrading the M20...I own the M-TEAM 20mph. You should not have to upgrade the wheelset after 100 miles on a $10k bike. Everything else I sort of expected, but not the wheels. Also, a factory level dropper should not stick after 3 rides. At the price point and spec level, everything should work and last at least for a full season. Not to mention the snapped XTR chain and cassette, but I think that one is just bad luck.


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

My regular LBS had an M20. My willpower lost, I threw down,.and my bike stable has grown! Gave up on finding an X01 Spur. Haha. Stoked!

Swapping on:

Mezzer fork
203 rotors, probably Galfers or Shimano
4-pot calipers 6120 (can keep stock Deore)
Metal pads
Saddle: trying WTB Volt
Grips: Ergon GA2 Fat
Hopefully finding a range extender somewhere. Anyone know when these will reappear from the dead?

Eventually...I'll get a better shock, probably a Super Deluxe with MegNeg. Going air to make the bike easier to share with friends. 

And maybe carbon wheels of some kind. Maybe a mullet in the future??

Thanks to all for the advice here and elsewhere!

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

So far on my Large Rise M20 I’ve added/swapped the following:

Manitou Mezzer @ 160mm
Marzocci Bomber CR w/550lb spring
Formula Cura 2 brakes w/sintered pads(eventually going with Hayes Dominion A4s)
XTR 12sp shifter
Bike Yoke Revive 185mm dropper 
PNW loam dropper lever
Jagwire 203mm LR2 rotors w/ magnet (may swap these for Galfer 2.0mm 203mm)
Ergon GA2 Fat grips
Ergon SMC Core saddle
One up composite pedals
Renthal Fat Bar Carbon Lite 30mm rise bars
Renthal 50mm stem
Maxxis DHF 2.6 front and put the Dissector 2.4 on the rear.

I went with the M20 because I knew I would be swapping almost everything out like I do on most of my bikes. Much easier and cheaper to swap/sell parts when they’re new.

I think the Cura 2s may be a little out matched for this bike so I’ll be swapping them for the Dominion A4s which I have on my Ripmo and are super sweet with great power and modulation. I just had the Cura’s laying around and wanted to remove the Deores as quick as possible. You definitely need 203 rotors. I’m curious as to why the M20 comes with centerlock and M10 is 6 bolt.

I may throw a DHR2 on the rear for maximum traction but for right now the Dissector is doing ok. I may swap the wheels in the future and try a Mullet setup.

The Mezzer/Bomber combo is pretty smooth. Not much else to say about it. I do like the bike set at 160 vs the 140.

Love the bike so far and can’t wait to test it out in Bentonville this spring. I like the fact that it can be ridden like a regular bike with the motor off and still have fun. This is great for riding with my gf who has a full fat e bike and doesn’t like me going too fast when I’m riding with her. It does feel a little down on power compared to a full fat e bike on the initial takeoff but once you get rolling it’s not as noticeable. I may get the battery extender since a 2.5 hr ride at Kanuga Bike park drained the battery completely but that’s the only time I’ve been able to run it completely dead on a ride.


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

meter-man said:


> My regular LBS had an M20. My willpower lost, I threw down,.and my bike stable has grown! Gave up on finding an X01 Spur. Haha. Stoked!
> 
> Swapping on:
> 
> ...





evan9r said:


> So far on my Large Rise M20 I’ve added/swapped the following:
> 
> Manitou Mezzer @ 160mm
> Marzocci Bomber CR w/550lb spring
> ...


My Mezzer and Mara Pro are quietly sitting in the corner waiting to be serviced to go 160/160. (2) offset bushings should keep the geo in check at sag, just slightly higher BB. Will report back once I get a chance make the change and ride it in appropriate terrain.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

GatorXman said:


> I would be perfectly happy upgrading the M20...I own the M-TEAM 20mph. You should not have to upgrade the wheelset after 100 miles on a $10k bike. Everything else I sort of expected, but not the wheels. Also, a factory level dropper should not stick after 3 rides. At the price point and spec level, everything should work and last at least for a full season. Not to mention the snapped XTR chain and cassette, but I think that one is just bad luck.


No You shouldn’t. I see you edited from calling it an M20 to an M-Team, which would have changed my original response. Only a 3k difference in price and a supposed to be better stock wheel set. My Turbine R wheels went straight into the box when new and replaced with NOX Farlows which as expected are straight and true after 500 miles.

Bringing up Shimano chain/ cassette has zero to to with Orbea and the bike, but I know you know that.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Ripbird said:


> No You shouldn’t. I see you edited from calling it an M20 to an M-Team, which would have changed my original response. Only a 3k difference in price and a supposed to be better stock wheel set. My Turbine R wheels went straight into the box when new and replaced with NOX Farlows which as expected are straight and true after 500 miles.
> 
> Bringing up Shimano chain/ cassette has zero to to with Orbea and the bike, but I know you know that.


Oops, my edited turned into a reply to my own post.


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## gmargrove (12 mo ago)

Has anyone seen an h10 or h15 in the flesh yet? H30s are out in the wild but there are virtually no reviews and no videos from actual owners. Have ordered an h15 supposed to be coming in Feb.


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## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

gmargrove said:


> Has anyone seen an h10 or h15 in the flesh yet? H30s are out in the wild but there are virtually no reviews and no videos from actual owners. Have ordered an h15 supposed to be coming in Feb.


Local shop had some h10s a couple of weeks ago but they went fast. They’re out there. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wild-fins (Dec 30, 2021)

jupitersending said:


> My hardware is 16.5mm rear and 22mm front. They changed the rear at some point during production from 15.7. I use the fox bushings, also on the DVO Topaz I use.


I am interested in upgrading the rear shock on the H30 Medium that's still pending delivery with a DVO Topaz as well in a mullet configuration. I already bought the Topaz in size 216x63mm 160mm. However, the body seems a bit large to me and not too sure if it will rub against the top tube when the rear triangle compresses.

What's the size of the DVO Topaz that you have? Any rubbing/friction issues observed?


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Those who are running MX/mullet, how do you like it? I loved my 27.5+ sized hardtail I used to have. Just curious how fun the mullet might be.


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

Anybody running a Super Deluxe (with or without MegNeg)? Positive experiences? I'll probably go with an air shock despite my coil-love so I can loan the bike out more easily.


Also.... <whispers> LBS reports range extenders are on the way.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah I upgraded the susp on my M20 to Lyrik and Super deluxe, WAY better, no MegNeg. Pretty much better in every way compared to Fox DPS but one nice thing is it requires way less psi, also adj low speed compression- no lever


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

I plan on buying a Rise but I'm torn between the Hydro models or the M20. I can get an M20 for $7K at my local shop or wait for a Hydro at the new price. My rides are shorter 1-2 hour rides so I'm not sure if the extra weight for the larger battery is worth it. Have any of you carbon owners wished you had the larger battery or has the smaller battery been enough?


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## GatorXman (Jun 23, 2014)

wild-fins said:


> I am interested in upgrading the rear shock on the H30 Medium that's still pending delivery with a DVO Topaz as well in a mullet configuration. I already bought the Topaz in size 216x63mm 160mm. However, the body seems a bit large to me and not too sure if it will rub against the top tube when the rear triangle compresses.
> 
> What's the size of the DVO Topaz that you have? Any rubbing/friction issues observed?


FYI there isn't enough clearance to fit an offset bushing on the head of a Manitou Mara Pro shock (maybe 1mm clear static). Topaz on my wifes Ripmo looks about the same size (not very scientific).

Tried to fit a 216x63 with two offset bushings. I was trying to run 160/160 29er keeping the HA and STA in check with stock, static BB would raise a bit, but once sagged would be close to stock. No go, so I just kept the single bushing in the tail. Paired it with my Mezzer up front and we will see how she goes. Haven't had a change to ride it yet because it rained all day yesterday.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

DirtDiggler said:


> I plan on buying a Rise but I'm torn between the Hydro models or the M20. I can get an M20 for $7K at my local shop or wait for a Hydro at the new price. My rides are shorter 1-2 hour rides so I'm not sure if the extra weight for the larger battery is worth it. Have any of you carbon owners wished you had the larger battery or has the smaller battery been enough?


I have an m series Rise and I also have a range extender. I, like you, do most of my riding on my rise in 1-2 hour rides. For those rides, I absolutely do not need any additional battery. I could ride the bike in boost mode 100% of the time on a typical 1.5 - 2 hour ride. Although, I rarely use boost mode the full time because the bike is just too punchy down low and it's harder to control my line selection while climbing. 

My advice to you based on my ownership of the rise and the info you gave... would be to get the M series you can get now. The battery capacity is adequate for rides under 3 hours or ~3,000 - 3,500' of elevation gain and 15-30 miles depending on elevation gain. I like being able to have the range extender and expand the range/capacity to 5,000 - 6,000' of elevation gain and 25-40 miles (depending on elevation). I am tied in pretty close to my LBS and i have a few buddies with H series bikes on order... They are going to be very hard to get in 2022 unless you have an order placed or are willing to be flexible on color and model. Between those two realities, my suggestion is if you have the budget, and you want the bike in the next 6 months, get the M series and don't look back.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I read the carbon versions w/range extender installed are still lighter and obviously have more total battery juice compared to aluminum models. If one is available now go for it, I will say the M20 spec is not great tho, susp and brakes especially. A stiffer low end fork and some 4 pot Deore's should really be spec'd for the $ spent, as well as 200 rotors


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

meter-man said:


> My regular LBS had an M20. My willpower lost, I threw down,.and my bike stable has grown! Gave up on finding an X01 Spur.


Last Year I couldn't find a Rise so I picked up a Trek Rail 7 ...Then I ordered an X01 Spur in DSG in July but found a Black powder X01 instead in Oct. Now I'm waiting on my Rise H15 w/ Factory Upgrades due by the end of the month. I definitely have zero willpower LOL... Don't give up on the Spur, it's an amazing bike! N+1


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Anyone looking to upgrade their DPS. 


https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3260269/


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> I have an m series Rise and I also have a range extender. I, like you, do most of my riding on my rise in 1-2 hour rides. For those rides, I absolutely do not need any additional battery. I could ride the bike in boost mode 100% of the time on a typical 1.5 - 2 hour ride. Although, I rarely use boost mode the full time because the bike is just too punchy down low and it's harder to control my line selection while climbing.
> 
> My advice to you based on my ownership of the rise and the info you gave... would be to get the M series you can get now. The battery capacity is adequate for rides under 3 hours or ~3,000 - 3,500' of elevation gain and 15-30 miles depending on elevation gain. I like being able to have the range extender and expand the range/capacity to 5,000 - 6,000' of elevation gain and 25-40 miles (depending on elevation). I am tied in pretty close to my LBS and i have a few buddies with H series bikes on order... They are going to be very hard to get in 2022 unless you have an order placed or are willing to be flexible on color and model. Between those two realities, my suggestion is if you have the budget, and you want the bike in the next 6 months, get the M series and don't look back.



I appreciate your response and your recommendation! That makes a lot of sense. As much as I would be perfectly happy on a hydro with the 3.5# weight penalty, the lighter weight of the carbon version really has me intrigued. I tried one out at the LBS and couldn't believe how easy it was to control and throw around. It doesn't feel like an ebike at 39#'s. That said, the hydro might feel the same way. I also demoed a Wild FS and WOW that thing cooks! But it was just too much bike for my needs. I don't have a lot of long fire road climbs here in NC. It's mostly short climbs and a lot of tight single track. The only thing I'm concerned about is Orbea producing a 150mm carbon version with bigger battery for a similar price in the next year since the Rise came out in 2020.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Tickle said:


> I read the carbon versions w/range extender installed are still lighter and obviously have more total battery juice compared to aluminum models. If one is available now go for it, I will say the M20 spec is not great tho, susp and brakes especially. A stiffer low end fork and some 4 pot Deore's should really be spec'd for the $ spent, as well as 200 rotors



Thanks Tickle - I'm probably going to swap out some parts from my trail bike over to the Rise. I have a Topaz and Diamond D1 for suspension. I'm also going to use my old Ibis wheelset. I figure the 35ID rims will work well on an eBike. Carbon bars, renthal stem and DHF's that will also come over. The SLX drive train is fine. Weight wise I'm probably going to break even with the heavier fork. Should be sweet.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Sounds nice, I still have the stock brakes but swapped to 200 rotors and metallic brake pads, they work ok but plan on some new brakes once my current pads are toast

BTW like your handle, Boogie Nights is one of my fav movies


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Tickle said:


> Sounds nice, I still have the stock brakes but swapped to 200 rotors and metallic brake pads, they work ok but plan on some new brakes once my current pads are toast
> 
> BTW like your handle, Boogie Nights is one of my fav movies


Thanks brother. I agree - it's classic movie that never gets old!
On the brakes, I'm probably going to upgrade the calipers to 4-pots: Shimano BR-M6120 Deore 4-Piston Disc Brake Caliper


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

GatorXman said:


> FYI there isn't enough clearance to fit an offset bushing on the head of a Manitou Mara Pro shock (maybe 1mm clear static). Topaz on my wifes Ripmo looks about the same size (not very scientific).
> 
> Tried to fit a 216x63 with two offset bushings. I was trying to run 160/160 29er keeping the HA and STA in check with stock, static BB would raise a bit, but once sagged would be close to stock. No go, so I just kept the single bushing in the tail. Paired it with my Mezzer up front and we will see how she goes. Haven't had a change to ride it yet because it rained all day yesterday.


I thought I read that one offset bushing is all you need to make it work (214 is what works for the bike I think). I thought that the long stroking only worked as a mullet though.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

zorg said:


> I thought I read that one offset bushing is all you need to make it work (214 is what works for the bike I think). I thought that the long stroking only worked as a mullet though.


Here’s a screen shot I took of the different angles and wheel sizes. This guy now runs 1 offset bushing in the rear for a mullet set up.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

zorg said:


> I thought I read that one offset bushing is all you need to make it work (214 is what works for the bike I think). I thought that the long stroking only worked as a mullet though.


I’ve heard some say 29/29 still works for large/xl depending on tire choice….I’ll be trying it out soon. I don’t really want to have to invest in a mullet wheel set if It’s not completely necessary


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

BigJZ74 said:


> I’ve heard some say 29/29 still works for large/xl depending on tire choice….I’ll be trying it out soon. I don’t really want to have to invest in a mullet wheel set if It’s not completely necessary


Interesting setup choices. The downside is all these setups raise the BB and steepen the head tube. The last full 29 figure doesn't make sense to me. If the stock 210mm shock gives a 336mm BB height why is the 212mm shock (using offset bushings) give a 345mm BB height?? That seems like to big of a jump for 2mm difference. 

That said, I would opt to get the 216mm shock down to 210mm with offset bushings (if possible) and shim the shock with a spacer to get 155mm of travel. Every time I've put a longer i2i shock on a bike its made the bike feel tall and the suspension curve feel odd. But maybe it's not as noticeable on the kinematics of this bike


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

DirtDiggler said:


> Interesting setup choices. The downside is all these setups raise the BB and steepen the head tube. The last full 29 figure doesn't make sense to me. If the stock 210mm shock gives a 336mm BB height why is the 212mm shock (using offset bushings) give a 345mm BB height?? That seems like to big of a jump for 2mm difference.
> 
> That said, I would opt to get the 216mm shock down to 210mm with offset bushings (if possible) and shim the shock with a spacer to get 155mm of travel. Every time I've put a longer i2i shock on a bike its made the bike feel tall and the suspension curve feel odd. But maybe it's not as noticeable on the kinematics of this bike


Bigger difference is from going up to 160 on the fork most likely. You also have to remember that a 160mm travel bike typically has a higher bb than a 140mm bike…you try to get ur bb close to stock it’s also 20mm closer to the ground at bottom out…I long stroked my Rallon and run it with a 178mm travel Trust Performance Shout for 178 up from and 170 in the rear. Bike is amazing….just starting to feel short since I’m used to riding longer reach bikes since my Wreckoning, Rail, and Spur…. BB on the Rallon is 343mm


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

BigJZ74 said:


> Bigger difference is from going up to 160 on the fork most likely. You also have to remember that a 160mm travel bike typically has a higher bb than a 140mm bike…you try to get ur bb close to stock it’s also 20mm closer to the ground at bottom out…I long stroked my Rallon and run it with a 178mm travel Trust Performance Shout for 178 up from and 170 in the rear. Bike is amazing….just starting to feel short since I’m used to riding longer reach bikes since my Wreckoning, Rail, and Spur…. BB on the Rallon is 343mm


I agree about the shock. Realistically 150mm, 155mm at the stock i2i would already be pushing it into pedal strike territory but that's manageable where I ride. We need cascade components to make us a nice 160mm link that holds the leverage ratio. That would be sweet.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

DirtDiggler said:


> I agree about the shock. Realistically 150mm, 155mm at the stock i2i would already be pushing it into pedal strike territory but that's manageable where I ride. We need cascade components to make us a nice 160mm link that holds the leverage ratio. That would be sweet.


Where do you ride? I ride really rocky terrain in NorCal...and i tend to take the chunkiest line possible so I probably won't mind the higher BB.. 30-31% sag. Travel at 63.5mm stroke is ~162. I was just looking at the geo chart of the 2020 Rallon and its probably almost exactly the same as the Rise w/ the long shock except the Rise is about 10mm longer in Reach and chainstay


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Any feedback on rear shock for the Rise? I understand that on a Medium, choices for a coil shock are limited due to clearance with top tube at full compression.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

BigJZ74 said:


> Where do you ride? I ride really rocky terrain in NorCal...and i tend to take the chunkiest line possible so I probably won't mind the higher BB.. 30-31% sag. Travel at 63.5mm stroke is ~162. I was just looking at the geo chart of the 2020 Rallon and its probably almost exactly the same as the Rise w/ the long shock except the Rise is about 10mm longer in Reach and chainstay


I'm in NC so most of the riding here is wooded single track. Some of it is buff and other parts are rooty. I would say low BB's are less of an issue over here. I usually like to have the BB low and use a 170mm crank. I recently tried a 165mm cranks on my Guerilla Gravity trail pistol but they were just too short for spinning. My heart rate was maxing out trying to spin up some long climbs. I can totally understand why you would want a higher BB out in the Nor Cal if you're hitting chunky rocky terrain. That makes sense. Love the Rallon - really nice bike!


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

The greatest upgrade to the Rise Carbon is.... the Rise Aluminum. So good this one.


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

Has anyone ordered decals from Slik Graphics for the blue/gold M-series? I'm looking for decals for my Mezzer, and trying to match the colors (i'm colorblind). The Orbea Rise Carbon Blue seems right on, but can't figure out which is the right yellow/gold/orangeish secondary color ("Orbea Rise Red Gold"?). Thanks folks.

Probably going to order the Ride Wrap kit for the Rise too from Slik.



Ripbird said:


> Anyone looking to upgrade their DPS.
> 
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3260269/


Thanks for posting up! Nabbed this one. Easier than trying to find the right custom tune (or re-valve) on a Super Deluxe...


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## REZEN (Aug 7, 2020)

Francis Cebedo said:


> The greatest upgrade to the Rise Carbon is.... the Rise Aluminum. So good this one.



^Just wish it was more "enduro" oriented than XC. I heard/saw rumors that the Kenevo SL was planned to either have a more powerful motor, or maybe Spec was looking into making a higher output "SL" motor but in the same frame mounting as the current...rumors/speculation....


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

meter-man said:


> Has anyone ordered decals from Slik Graphics for the blue/gold M-series? I'm looking for decals for my Mezzer, and trying to match the colors (i'm colorblind). The Orbea Rise Carbon Blue seems right on, but can't figure out which is the right yellow/gold/orangeish secondary color ("Orbea Rise Red Gold"?). Thanks folks.
> 
> Probably going to order the Ride Wrap kit for the Rise too from Slik.
> 
> ...





Francis Cebedo said:


> The greatest upgrade to the Rise Carbon is.... the Rise Aluminum. So good this one.
> View attachment 1970555


Looks nice! I haven't seen that many Rise hydros out in the flesh.
Have you ridden the carbon version prior? As much as I like the aluminum for the larger battery I'm likely going to buy the carbon version to save a bit of weight + it's available now. Jenson USA is not getting any Hydros until July and my LBS not until May/June. What are you coming in at for weight?


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

REZEN said:


> ^Just wish it was more "enduro" oriented than XC. I heard/saw rumors that the Kenevo SL was planned to either have a more powerful motor, or maybe Spec was looking into making a higher output "SL" motor but in the same frame mounting as the current...rumors/speculation....


It's definitely more trail oriented but it seems super capable. Watching Geoff Gulevich ride it is pretty mind blowing. Plus it's a great value. The Hydro Rise starts at $5700 and carbon $7400. The Kenvovo SL starts at 9K. Although, a Kenovo SL with a larger motor could be really nice!


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## jn24uk (Nov 26, 2015)

meter-man said:


> Has anyone ordered decals from Slik Graphics for the blue/gold M-series? I'm looking for decals for my Mezzer, and trying to match the colors (i'm colorblind). The Orbea Rise Carbon Blue seems right on, but can't figure out which is the right yellow/gold/orangeish secondary color ("Orbea Rise Red Gold"?). Thanks folks.
> 
> Probably going to order the Ride Wrap kit for the Rise too from Slik.
> 
> ...


I reached out to Orbea, pantone is "P METALLIC 8962 C" I ordered from Stikrd


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

Francis Cebedo said:


> The greatest upgrade to the Rise Carbon is.... the Rise Aluminum. So good this one.
> View attachment 1970555


Francis, What are your thoughts on the two different colors in person? I ordered the grey/blue since its more subtle but I'm a big fan of Orange being I have been a KTM guy for 20 years. If I bought the orange my wife may never no I got a new bike since it would blend in with all my KTMs in my shop! LOL


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

dp400 said:


> Francis, What are your thoughts on the two different colors in person? I ordered the grey/blue since its more subtle but I'm a big fan of Orange being I have been a KTM guy for 20 years. If I bought the orange my wife may never no I got a new bike since it would blend in with all my KTMs in my shop! LOL


_Biased 500 EXC owner here... take comments with a grain of salt. _

I am generally not a fan of orange bicycles. For whatever reason, I'm all in on the orange on my dirt bikes, but orange on bicycles is typically not my jam. That being said, the orange on the H series rise is quite nice in person. It's actually one of the first orange bikes I've seen where I'm keen on it. Regarding the available colors of the H series... it's quite rare for me to actually like all of the colors of a particular model range of bike, but hot damn do they all look good in person. I think for me, I like the gray/blue the most, then the black/gray and then the orange/black. 

One thing to consider... and I'm not advocating this, but stating this uhhhh, from the perspective of an conscientious objector you could say.... Is while the black/gray is some what boring... It is very stealthy as an ebike. I have the white/green M series rise, and my wife has the blue/gold. Semi, educated mountain bikers can determine that my bike is an ebike (once they get within 3-5') but they cannot do the same with my wife's blue/gold rise. There are some obvious advantages to the rises that have dark colored areas around the motor/downtube when it comes to ebike identification. This is something that may be more important to some owners then others, depending on their usage of the bike and riding location.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> _Biased 500 EXC owner here... take comments with a grain of salt. _
> 
> I am generally not a fan of orange bicycles. For whatever reason, I'm all in on the orange on my dirt bikes, but orange on bicycles is typically not my jam. That being said, the orange on the H series rise is quite nice in person. It's actually one of the first orange bikes I've seen where I'm keen on it. Regarding the available colors of the H series... it's quite rare for me to actually like all of the colors of a particular model range of bike, but hot damn do they all look good in person. I think for me, I like the gray/blue the most, then the black/gray and then the orange/black.
> 
> One thing to consider... and I'm not advocating this, but stating this uhhhh, from the perspective of an conscientious objector you could say.... Is while the black/gray is some what boring... It is very stealthy as an ebike. I have the white/green M series rise, and my wife has the blue/gold. Semi, educated mountain bikers can determine that my bike is an ebike (once they get within 3-5') but they cannot do the same with my wife's blue/gold rise. There are some obvious advantages to the rises that have dark colored areas around the motor/downtube when it comes to ebike identification. This is something that may be more important to some owners then others, depending on their usage of the bike and riding location.



That's a great point regarding the color hiding the motor, which begs the question: Why don't bikes like the Orbea Rise use a paper thin CF cover over the motor? Does the motor need that much heat dissipation? If the black motor was covered on the Rise to make a continuous down tube there would be almost no way to tell it's an ebike! I think the reality is, there are a lot of people that feel self conscious riding a pedal assist bike, and would rather fly under the radar.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

minimusprime said:


> _Biased 500 EXC owner here... take comments with a grain of salt. _
> 
> I am generally not a fan of orange bicycles. For whatever reason, I'm all in on the orange on my dirt bikes, but orange on bicycles is typically not my jam. That being said, the orange on the H series rise is quite nice in person. It's actually one of the first orange bikes I've seen where I'm keen on it. Regarding the available colors of the H series... it's quite rare for me to actually like all of the colors of a particular model range of bike, but hot damn do they all look good in person. I think for me, I like the gray/blue the most, then the black/gray and then the orange/black.
> 
> One thing to consider... and I'm not advocating this, but stating this uhhhh, from the perspective of an conscientious objector you could say.... Is while the black/gray is some what boring... It is very stealthy as an ebike. I have the white/green M series rise, and my wife has the blue/gold. Semi, educated mountain bikers can determine that my bike is an ebike (once they get within 3-5') but they cannot do the same with my wife's blue/gold rise. There are some obvious advantages to the rises that have dark colored areas around the motor/downtube when it comes to ebike identification. This is something that may be more important to some owners then others, depending on their usage of the bike and riding location.


Funny how the choice of color could come down to the most stealth. BUT I gave that a lot of thought as well. I would have gone with the black/gray if I could but I'm getting mine from a friend that owns Current E Bikes in Santa Cruze and the Blue gray is going to be the first H15 in Med. coming in to his shop so thats what I'm going with. It was hard to tell looking at the early sales info if all the bikes had a gloss finish? From what I could tell the Orange did and the gray/blue was more of a mat finish. This will be my first e bike and I didn't want it to stand out so went with the more subtle look vs a brighter Orange. I would have preferred the blue area to be black so the motor didn't stick out. Hopefully I get mine next month!


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## mtbrdan (Jun 1, 2004)

Good luck on getting one, rumor is that Orbea is limited to shipping 60 units per day for the world. I am glad I jumped on mine when I did.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

mtbrdan said:


> Good luck on getting one, rumor is that Orbea is limited to shipping 60 units per day for the world. I am glad I jumped on mine when I did.


Yeah fingers crossed but mine was ordered 6 - 8 months ago by the store owner. It has been pushed out a month ... so far. He is getting his first shipment in a few weeks. Luckily he has a M20 that I can ride anytime I want. That helps a lot!


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

If anybody is selling their Float X (the new replacement for DPX2) off their Rise, DM me - I'll buy it. Cheers!


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

meter-man said:


> If anybody is selling their Float X (the new replacement for DPX2) off their Rise, DM me - I'll buy it. Cheers!


DM Sent. I have a 210x55 Fox float X factory that's got about 5 rides on it that I'm looking to sell for $420 shipped.

Let me know.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

mtbrdan said:


> Good luck on getting one, rumor is that Orbea is limited to shipping 60 units per day for the world. I am glad I jumped on mine when I did.


If this were true Orbea would be in trouble....they sell roughly 200000/yr...2/3 locally in France/Spain which would leave 66600 bikes to ship else where which is 180bikes per day for 365 days in a row...with a 60 per day limit.... every day that passes they fall behind 2 days.add in more days because they def don't ship 365 days/yr.....basically it would take them 3+ years to ship out the bikes they sell in a year. I messaged a friend who sells Orbea in the UK to see what he thinks. Def wud suck if it's true. I'm gonna message my shop for an update on my Rider Connect order tomorrow.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

If anyone is looking for a Carbon Rise I'm pretty sure Current E Bikes in Santa Cruze has some. They have some of the best customer service in the Bay Area!


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## madamfunk (Jun 27, 2011)

jupitersending said:


> A few mods on my M20:
> Bomber CR rear shock
> XT Cassette
> DT XMC 1200 wheels
> ...


I'm having a hard time finding the max insertable length on a large rise. I want to replace the OEM 150mm post on my M10 with a 200-210 but not sure how deep I can go. On the 210 Oneup you have installed now, can you go deeper?


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

madamfunk said:


> I'm having a hard time finding the max insertable length on a large rise. I want to replace the OEM 150mm post on my M10 with a 200-210 but not sure how deep I can go. On the 210 Oneup you have installed now, can you go deeper?


What’s your height and inseam.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

BigJZ74 said:


> If this were true Orbea would be in trouble....they sell roughly 200000/yr...2/3 locally in France/Spain which would leave 66600 bikes to ship else where which is 180bikes per day for 365 days in a row...with a 60 per day limit.... every day that passes they fall behind 2 days.add in more days because they def don't ship 365 days/yr.....basically it would take them 3+ years to ship out the bikes they sell in a year. I messaged a friend who sells Orbea in the UK to see what he thinks. Def wud suck if it's true. I'm gonna message my shop for an update on my Rider Connect order tomorrow.


Any word from your friend?
My Rise just got pushed back another month. April ( 2022? ) is the new month of choice. I'm thinking this isn't going to hold for long and it will get pushed back again.


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

I finally got my Rise M10 MYO with R31 carbon wheels and Minions. I have also swapped the cranks to Shimano XT since these photos were taken.

Loving the bike so far!


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

dp400 said:


> Any word from your friend?
> My Rise just got pushed back another month. April ( 2022? ) is the new month of choice. I'm thinking this isn't going to hold for long and it will get pushed back again.


He said kinda true. ~60 complete bikes is what a 40ft DHL container holds...but they ship 4-5 containers per day. My h15 just arrived at the shop today, Will get shipped to me tomorrow or Thursday via Bike Flights from Oregon. I should have it by Friday or Monday in Norcal.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

HighFive! said:


> I finally got my Rise M10 MYO with R31 carbon wheels and Minions. I have also swapped the cranks to Shimano XT since these photos were taken.
> 
> Loving the bike so far!


DAMN! That's an amazing color scheme. Love it. What's the weight coming in at?


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

DirtDiggler said:


> DAMN! That's an amazing color scheme. Love it. What's the weight coming in at?


18.5kg (40.8lbs) 

I chose the minion upgrade based on people complaining about the Rekon but honestly for where I ride they are total overkill and I feel they are heavy and roll too slowly. Once they wear out I'm going to drop some significant weight with a lighter tyre combo.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Yeah, I think many are charging hard on the stock tires and depending on where you live and ride they may be completely fine. Personally, I would just replace the front tire with a Minion in the regular casing and keep the Rekon in the rear because it's a fast rolling tire. On most of my bikes I've had really good luck with an 2.3 Aggressor rear and 2.5 Minion front. The Aggressor seem to roll quicker than a Minion but can still work in sketchy situations. Sometimes having too much grip, especially in the rear, will give you the feeling you're rolling slower.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

DirtDiggler said:


> Yeah, I think many are charging hard on the stock tires and depending on where you live and ride they may be completely fine. Personally, I would just replace the front tire with a Minion in the regular casing and keep the Rekon in the rear because it's a fast rolling tire. On most of my bikes I've had really good luck with an 2.3 Aggressor rear and 2.5 Minion front. The Aggressor seem to roll quicker than a Minion but can still work in sketchy situations. Sometimes having too much grip, especially in the rear, will give you the feeling you're rolling slower.


I’m swapping the 2.4 Dissector to the rear and Going with a 2.6 Dissector up front. I’ve tried the Rekon on the rear of my regular bikes and just don’t get the grip I need in where I ride in NorCal.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I'm trying to wear out an old DHF up front and the Dissector in the rear then I'm going full Minion-2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR II. The DHF is a non WT and it's kinda squared off w/30i rims, Dissector in the rear has been ok just not the cornering traction I like


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

My go to trail combo on my old bike was always Ardent 2.4 front with Ikon 2.35 rear. We don't get any mud here so that combo has always worked well for me but it might be a little too light duty for the extra weight the ebike brings. My old bike (SC 5010) weighs about 6kg (13lbs) less than the Rise with Minions on it.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah on my previous Primer 29 I liked to run Bonty XR4's during the spring when the trails were wet/tacky but once things dried out and got loose during the summer I would run the Minions the rest of the season. Don't notice the extra weight with the motor assist honestly, I did run the stock tires the first couple months last spring when I got the Rise before the trails dried out and they were fine but switched over to DHF and the Dissector to the back


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Anyone put a coil on a medium? If so, which one?


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

Anyone in the 5'9" range riding a Large Rise? I've ridden a Med several times and the 450 reach always feels about right to me on most bikes. The Rise has a 474 reach in Large. I may be able to get a Large sooner than later and wonder about fit. I think the Rise comes with a fairly long stem so that can be shortened and the seat can be slammed forward to shorten the cockpit when peddling. 
Thoughts?


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

dp400 said:


> Anyone in the 5'9" range riding a Large Rise? I've ridden a Med several times and the 450 reach always feels about right to me on most bikes. The Rise has a 474 reach in Large. I may be able to get a Large sooner than later and wonder about fit. I think the Rise comes with a fairly long stem so that can be shortened and the seat can be slammed forward to shorten the cockpit when peddling.
> Thoughts?


My wife is 5'8" and there is no way she could ride a large. You do more seated pedaling on ebikes then normal bikes (save maybe cross country race bikes) and as a result, you need to be able to weight the outside bar end/grip on cornering which gets very hard if you've sized up. In addition, Orbea has some pretty long seat tubes... I would struggle to see how some one that is 5'8" or 5'9" with standard fit dimensions, would be able to use a 150mm dropper post on a Large.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

Good call on the seat tube hight. There is a 38mm difference between the two and I may have about 25-30 mm of ST on the Med before it's slammed.

The 25 mm reach may be able to be reduced quite a bit with a 30 mm stem vs the stock 50mm and slamming the seat forward. The seat tube will probably be the biggest factor? The tall seat tubes suck! I run a 210 on my Med Ripmo!!


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

minimusprime said:


> DM Sent. I have a 210x55 Fox float X factory that's got about 5 rides on it that I'm looking to sell for $420 shipped.
> 
> Let me know.


Minimus, check your DMs por favor. I'm interested in your Float! Cheers!


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

minimusprime said:


> My wife is 5'8" and there is no way she could ride a large. You do more seated pedaling on ebikes then normal bikes (save maybe cross country race bikes) and as a result, you need to be able to weight the outside bar end/grip on cornering which gets very hard if you've sized up. In addition, Orbea has some pretty long seat tubes... I would struggle to see how some one that is 5'8" or 5'9" with standard fit dimensions, would be able to use a 150mm dropper post on a Large.


A quick update on my test ride on a Large Rise being 5' 9".
The seat post was a non issue! The dropper was 150mm and dependent on the seat ( I tried a few ) I would need to rise the post up maybe a 1/2 inch to fit well. So it was a tad low with the post slammed down in the frame.
The seat to bars didn't feel too crazy long for me but I would want to put on a 30-35 mm stem and slam the seat forward. Stock is 50mm. I did not try a shorter stem.
The bike felt a bit long for me in the short time peddling around in the streets. Ive only ridden e bikes maybe 8 times so I'm not all that used to the extra weight up front when going off of drops and such. This large felt like it would take more effort to keep the front level on drops and jumps. I'm sure I could get used to it though.
Im sticking with my Med Rise order I have placed. I think it will feel a bit more maneuverable and I will have more options for longer seat posts. I have a feeling the large would feel great on steep descents with that longer front center and wheelbase. 
Last thought : the large I rode was the gray color scheme and I wish I had that color on order! 

Thanks to Mike at Current E Bikes in Santa Cruz for the test ride. That Large H15 is on his showroom floor so if you're looking for one get it before its gone.


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## Francis11 (12 mo ago)

How many chain links have you installed on the Rise using Sram Eagle cassette and derailleur?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Francis11 said:


> How many chain links have you installed on the Rise using Sram Eagle cassette and derailleur?


I just used the same length as the stock Shimano chain and it was fine for my X01 setup.


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## Francis11 (12 mo ago)

BigJZ74 said:


> I just used the same length as the stock Shimano chain and it was fine for my X01 setup.


did you change cassette and chain to Sram or are you using the derailleur with Shimano stock chain and cassette?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Francis11 said:


> did you change cassette and chain to Sram or are you using the derailleur with Shimano stock chain and cassette?


X01 Setup = RD,Cassette, Shifter, Chain.....


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

dirtbiker said:


> Can anyone who is 5’8-5’9 range tell me what size you went with. I ride a medium in Ibis bikes and thought they ran kind of small but the size chart on the Orbea site makes me think I should be on a large. Any input would be appreciated.


I just got the Rise LTD, I am 5'8 1/2" and went with a large. Only one short ride so far as none of our trails are open, and snowing now in So.West Colorado, but this bike is awesome !


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Dominion A4's, got em for $400 shipped just need to install, not looking forward to routing hose thru frame hoping to not have to drop motor again.


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

dp400 said:


> A quick update on my test ride on a Large Rise being 5' 9".
> The seat post was a non issue! The dropper was 150mm and dependent on the seat ( I tried a few ) I would need to rise the post up maybe a 1/2 inch to fit well. So it was a tad low with the post slammed down in the frame.
> The seat to bars didn't feel too crazy long for me but I would want to put on a 30-35 mm stem and slam the seat forward. Stock is 50mm. I did not try a shorter stem.
> The bike felt a bit long for me in the short time peddling around in the streets. Ive only ridden e bikes maybe 8 times so I'm not all that used to the extra weight up front when going off of drops and such. This large felt like it would take more effort to keep the front level on drops and jumps. I'm sure I could get used to it though.
> ...


Interesting...I am your height, 30" inseam, and went with a large. I took a bunch of measurements from my medium xc/trail bike, and the large set up from the factory is actually 1/2" shorter center of seat post at the seat to center of bars. I rode it for the 2nd time Wednesday, about 18 miles and 1500 ft. total elevation, all single track, with whoops, drops, and a few jumps, and I am very happy with the large. I built my xc mtb in 2015, so it is not slacked out like the newer geometry, so you most likely know more about fitment than I. I was really testing it to see how it rode in the different settings to get a feel on battery life. I seriously rode it simply turned on for maybe 70 % of the ride, but did use eco on some mellow climbs, bumped it to trail on some steeper stuff, and turbo'ed once to check it out. The bike, even just turned on rode very light, and handles great. Enjoy your new Rise, can't wait to hear after you put some miles on it.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Tickle said:


> Dominion A4's, got em for $400 shipped just need to install, not looking forward to routing hose thru frame hoping to not have to drop motor again.
> View attachment 1975401


Those like great! Should be a nice upgrade over the single pots.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Had some drama with the rear hose routing, tried a trick I found online attaching a cable to the existing hose and pulling the cable thru then I would attach the new hose to the cable and pull back thru back to front. Well the damn cable detached I think at the rubber loop to the chainstay so now I'm kinda hosed(pun intended) trying to decide if I want to buy one of those tools to route internally or just pull the motor and battery and try to route thru frame.

Anyone use one of those tools on the Rise to route a hose or cable housing?


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

As a custom home builder we have to fish wires on occasion, an electrical fish tape may help as they're stiffer and easier to move around through bends, but have never done what you're attempting, good luck ! If you pull the motor you should do a quick video. It would be interesting to weigh the bike without motor, for curiosity.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I did pull the motor once to reroute the dropper housing, but not the battery, was pretty easy actually but if one of those tools does the job would rather go that route. The motor was not too heavy I bet the battery weighs more


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Tickle said:


> Had some drama with the rear hose routing, tried a trick I found online attaching a cable to the existing hose and pulling the cable thru then I would attach the new hose to the cable and pull back thru back to front. Well the damn cable detached I think at the rubber loop to the chainstay so now I'm kinda hosed(pun intended) trying to decide if I want to buy one of those tools to route internally or just pull the motor and battery and try to route thru frame.
> 
> Anyone use one of those tools on the Rise to route a hose or cable housing?



How did you connect the cables together? I think it has to be a bulletproof connection like this SRAM Stealth Barb connector. The cable is tight in there and you have to use some force pulling it.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I think that's for connecting 2 pieces of brake hose, guess I could of used that with another piece of hose instead but I connected a cable to the existing hose by fitting a ferrule over the cable head and the ferrule fit on the end of the hose. I also wrapped some tape around it to secure it but it still detached cause it got hung up on the loop I think. I really hate internal routing, give me the old days of being able to mount up pre bled brakes!

If I knew one of those internal routing tools would work I would just do that and not mess w dropping motor again but I'm pretty sure I could make the cable trick work if have access to the rubber loop from the inside, use cable to route hose from chainstay thru loop and then run cable thru headtube port and connect again to hose and pull it thru downtube


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Tickle said:


> I think that's for connecting 2 pieces of brake hose, guess I could of used that with another piece of hose instead but I connected a cable to the existing hose by fitting a ferrule over the cable head and the ferrule fit on the end of the hose. I also wrapped some tape around it to secure it but it still detached cause it got hung up on the loop I think. I really hate internal routing, give me the old days of being able to mount up pre bled brakes!
> 
> If I knew one of those internal routing tools would work I would just do that and not mess w dropping motor again but I'm pretty sure I could make the cable trick work if have access to the rubber loop from the inside, use cable to route hose from chainstay thru loop and then run cable thru headtube port and connect again to hose and pull it thru downtube


The SRAM Stealth Barb connector's sole purpose is for joining two cables together temporarily and pulling a cable through. It is a very strong bond and it is removed after the new cable is fed. It cannot be used in actual use because it does not allow fluid to go through. The threads are reversed on each end so you tighten on both sides simply by spinning the barb.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Only problem is the existing hose is no longer routed thru frame so too late for that option, thx tho!


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

I just came on here to warn people of the issue of installing the A4s. I did mine last night and ran into some issues. 

I had already installed the Cura 2s but not without some pain and suffering. I thought I could do it without dropping the motor and somehow, miraculously, I did. It took a few hours of finagling and cursing to get it turned just right and go up the main frame tube next to the battery. I ordered the Park Tool LRT2 soon after.

This time I dropped the motor first but the chainstay was the first hang up, finally got it through that and ran into the next roadblock. The housing from the chainstay to the frame(black tube about 6" long) is too small of diameter to run the Hayes Dominion A4 brake hose through. Tried lubing it and no dice. Finally had to make a slice in the bottom of the tube the entire length so it could expand a tiny bit. Its so tight and being that its on the bottom side and protected by the wire for the speed sensor, Im not to worried about any intrusion. Everything else went smoothly.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Hmmm, thx for the heads up, I compared the stock Shimano hose to the Hayes and sure enough it is just slightly bigger in diameter. Guess that piece of tubing acts like a seal to keep water out so ditching it altogether isn't an option, what a hassle. I decided to buy the Park routing tool and hoping to get a line fished thru the frame and the hose pulled back thru without dropping the motor, well see. Is there any major hangup routing the hose thru the downtube next to the battery?


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

It’s a luck of the draw running it next to the battery on the drive side. I believe there is a cable on that side that made mine difficult if not next to impossible to get through. Funny thing was I got it to go through fairly quickly and I had to pull it back out because I forgot to run it through the housing. Then spent the next 2 hours trying to get it through again. It’s worth it to buy the LRT2 and drop the motor which is not hard just time consuming. You might get lucky tho with the Park routing tool so fingers crossed for you. Routing it above the battery was easy after dropping the motor but a no go without doing so.


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## JKA (Jul 26, 2006)

I agree. Internal routing drives me nuts. Sorry, but this is one major "upgrade" to newer bike that is worse than it was before. It's such a cosmetic thing that I don't care about at all. I'm not prissy enough that having external cables makes me sad. Just give me good old external cable routing and my life is WAY easier.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Idk…how hard would it be to make dedicated tunnels for each cable/hose? Especially with carbon…


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

evan9r said:


> It’s a luck of the draw running it next to the battery on the drive side. I believe there is a cable on that side that made mine difficult if not next to impossible to get through. Funny thing was I got it to go through fairly quickly and I had to pull it back out because I forgot to run it through the housing. Then spent the next 2 hours trying to get it through again. It’s worth it to buy the LRT2 and drop the motor which is not hard just time consuming. You might get lucky tho with the Park routing tool so fingers crossed for you. Routing it above the battery was easy after dropping the motor but a no go without doing so.


I plan on routing the Park tool line thru non drive side but the shifter cable is on that side too, the dropper cable is on the drive side. I had to drop the motor once already to fix the dropper cable, I remember the wiring harness was right at the end of the battery hopefully won't get in the way. BTW I checked the piece of black tubing and your right no go with the Hayes hose, that's pretty lame. I just cut the ends off that fit into the frame and dremel'd them a little and now they fit over the hose, will use some tape to hold down the wire


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

What's the biggest 29" tire anyone has fit into an alu Rise frame?


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

mikesee said:


> What's the biggest 29" tire anyone has fit into an alu Rise frame?


29x2.6 maxxis rekon. The 29x2.6 and 29x2.6 dissector and dhr2 will not clear.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

minimusprime said:


> 29x2.6 maxxis rekon. The 29x2.6 and 29x2.6 dissector and dhr2 will not clear.


what rim inner width? 
actual tire width measurement(s)?
photo showing clearance of the Rekon?


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

DHF 29x2.6 clears on an H15 rear


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

What about the carbon frame? Will the 2.6 DHRII on a id 35 wheel fit? I am just about to order some.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Got er done the park tool works, little finicky, the hose got caught up on something next to battery but was able to work it thru. Gonna do a test ride tomm but can already tell lever feel is much nicer


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

Ripbird said:


> Anyone looking to upgrade their DPS.
> 
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3260269/


This DPX2 is now for sale again, with only 15 more miles - so total of 115 miles. Located in Truckee/Tahoe, CA.

Has the custom Orbea tune code for the Rise - much better than the stock DPS.


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

meter-man said:


> This DPX2 is now for sale again, with only 15 more miles - so total of 115 miles. Located in Truckee/Tahoe, CA.
> 
> Has the custom Orbea tune code for the Rise - much better than the stock DPS.


What did you replace it with?


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

When I turn on my Orbea Rise, I'm getting and error and the only thing I see on the small indicator box is two flashing red lights. Motor does not work. Tried charging, reboot and still the same. This happen to anyone here? How do I find out the error code?


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## c-wal (Jan 23, 2004)

Francis Cebedo said:


> When I turn on my Orbea Rise, I'm getting and error and the only thing I see on the small indicator box is two flashing red lights. Motor does not work. Tried charging, reboot and still the same. This happen to anyone here? How do I find out the error code?


Did you connect it to the etube app to see the error code? Is there a magnet still on the rear rotor? (Grain of salt post here with knowledge gained the Internet)

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk


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## meter-man (Mar 23, 2016)

zorg said:


> What did you replace it with?


Float X takeoff from a Rise M10

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Francis Cebedo said:


> When I turn on my Orbea Rise, I'm getting and error and the only thing I see on the small indicator box is two flashing red lights. Motor does not work. Tried charging, reboot and still the same. This happen to anyone here? How do I find out the error code?
> 
> View attachment 1977198


I've had that happen twice, once when I did an update thru the app, I just turned the bike off and it worked fine when I turned it back on, and once when I pedaled the bike without the rear wheel and no magnet for the sensor

BTW no error code in app


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I'm sure you guys know this, but dual blinking red LED's means that there is a system error and it should be showing an error message either on a screen (if you have one) or in the etube app. Not saying that there is actually one there, because electronics are fickle items afterall.


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## BZman (9 mo ago)

[Hi
Danny
I’m very intrigued buy your travel upgrade.
I’ll run it by a local shop here in north Georgia,Bc I’m not qualified to do the work my self.would you mind sharing your email or phone incase we have some detailed questions ?
I’m [email protected] or 
770-906-0563 of you care to reach back out.
Btw what do you think about the possibility to try a coil shock on that frame?
Have you risen them.
I haven’t but I’m looking for the plushest set up.any thoughts about the best way to soak up the small to medium chatter woild
Be helpful.
I switched my bar to Sq labs carbon 16 sweep and 45 rise with and envy carbon 50 stem.
Which I like a lot.
I’m 60 yrs old and have some neck and arm issues but it won’t stop me from riding hopefully.

QUOTE="danny.mendes, post: 15439532, member: 740312"]
I've had my Medium M10 for a little over 2 months now, the more I ride it the more I love this bike. Here are the mods I've done to it so far:

XTR GS Derailleur, XTR 12sp 10-46 Cassette and XTR Chain (swapped over from my 2019 Bronson)
Shimano Icetech Rotors 203 Front 180 Rear
Maxxis Assega 3C EXO on the front, moved stock Dissector to the rear
Shimano SC-EM800 Display
WTB Volt Carbon Saddle
ODI AG-2 Grips

Suspension Mods:
160mm Air Spring in the stock Fox 36
Swapped stock shock with a Fox DPX2 216x63 (8.5"x2.5"). Running two offset bushings, that reduce the eye-to-eye to 213. The 160 spring raised the front 8mm and the shock raised the rear 6mm and kept the rest of the Geo numbers close to stock.

This setup is perfect for me. I love steep technical climbing and the stock BB height was a little on the low side to prevent pedal strikes. The added BB height resulted in very few to no pedal strikes, but is still at a good trail height that does not affect handling (I measured it at 341mm). I'm at 160mm travel front and back now. The stock suspension on the M10 was very impressive, but the setup I have now is awesome. I had seen some other Rise owners do the same shock size swap but went with a 27.5" rear wheel. I liked the 29" wheel in the back, so that is why I went the offset bushing route.
[/QUOTE]


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Hi Guys,

I have an H30 on order and I'm wondering about frame size. I placed an order for a size Medium because that is what I've always run, but looking at the Orbea size chart they say I should be on a Large. I'm 5' 10". The medium Rise has a longer reach than my other 2 medium size bikes. I will be living in Florida so not much elevation, climbing, steep downhills, etc. More technical trails and jumping. So I'm thinking the medium is the right choice, but I'm really second guessing myself to go against the manufacturer recommendations. I just really don't want a bike that feels big. I'm hoping some people in this thread can give me some feedback.


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

flyinb501 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I have an H30 on order and I'm wondering about frame size. I placed an order for a size Medium because that is what I've always run, but looking at the Orbea size chart they say I should be on a Large. I'm 5' 10". The medium Rise has a longer reach than my other 2 medium size bikes. I will be living in Florida so not much elevation, climbing, steep downhills, etc. More technical trails and jumping. So I'm thinking the medium is the right choice, but I'm really second guessing myself to go against the manufacturer recommendations. I just really don't want a bike that feels big. I'm hoping some people in this thread can give me some feedback.


I am shy of 5'9", and bought a large Rise. I measured my current rides overall reach, center of seat to center of stem, and several others, and the large is a bit shorter than my medium framed Devinci Atlas. Very comfy, the large is perfect.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Stay with the medium. I’d rather have a slightly smaller bike than a slightly larger bike. Also some advice I read is that since it’s an e bike and going to be heavier than a normal bike, sizing down is going to be better to allow you to maneuver and control it better. Plus the longer wheelbase of an e bike will make it harder to manual and wheelie so even more reason to size down.


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

evan9r said:


> Stay with the medium. I’d rather have a slightly smaller bike than a slightly larger bike. Also some advice I read is that since it’s an e bike and going to be heavier than a normal bike, sizing down is going to be better to allow you to maneuver and control it better. Plus the longer wheelbase of an e bike will make it harder to manual and wheelie so even more reason to size down.


I usually ride a medium, but the large feels spot on. My buddy that owns a bike shop in Durango is 5'7+ and also rides the large, to each his own, but in no way does it feel too long reach wise.


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## ReXTless (Feb 23, 2007)

flyinb501 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I have an H30 on order and I'm wondering about frame size. I placed an order for a size Medium because that is what I've always run, but looking at the Orbea size chart they say I should be on a Large. I'm 5' 10". The medium Rise has a longer reach than my other 2 medium size bikes. I will be living in Florida so not much elevation, climbing, steep downhills, etc. More technical trails and jumping. So I'm thinking the medium is the right choice, but I'm really second guessing myself to go against the manufacturer recommendations. I just really don't want a bike that feels big. I'm hoping some people in this thread can give me some feedback.


You also need to consider the effective top tube length. That's what determines your distance to the bars during seated pedaling. Because the seat tube angle is quite steep on the Rise, the effective top tube length is very short relative to reach.


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

ReXTless said:


> You also need to consider the effective top tube length. That's what determines your distance to the bars during seated pedaling. Because the seat tube angle is quite steep on the Rise, the effective top tube length is very short relative to reach.


Well said and correct


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

my wife is 5'8" and rides a medium rise and it fits her perfectly. I am just a shade under 6'3" and I am on an XL. at 5'10" I would squarely place you in large for this bike over medium. You obviously need to take my suggestion with a grain of salt, because I live out west and most of what I ride ends up being super high speed and chunky, so sizing up when give a choice is the usual path forward. 

That being said, I do tend to be leery of ending up on a bike that is too big, and I do think sizing down on an ebike is relatively safe advice for some of the reasons mentioned here. I will say that the rise rides shorter then it's numbers suggest, except for the seat tube length. If I were in your shoes, I'd make sure the seat tube length worked for my inseam on the large and if it does, I'd buy that.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Man, you guys are making this difficult haha! I'm going to take some more measurements of my current bike and compare. Unfortunately, I can't find any of the geometry measurements of my current bike online.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

flyinb501 said:


> Man, you guys are making this difficult haha! I'm going to take some more measurements of my current bike and compare. Unfortunately, I can't find any of the geometry measurements of my current bike online.


Try this site. Geometry Geeks


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

BigJZ74 said:


> Try this site. Geometry Geeks


Tried that, but no luck. I took measurement manually for my BH Atom and used Geometry Geeks for the other bikes. Below are the results. It looks like the Medium Rise is most comparable if not larger than my other bikes. Much larger than my Diamondback, but the last time I rode that bike it did feel a little small compared to my BH and Motobecane.

Comparing to my other bikes:
Diamondback Mason Trail:
Reach - 418
Stack - 604
Top tube effective = 585
Seat tube CT = 420
Wheelbase = 1131

2018 BH Atom Lynx 6 Pro (my own measurements)
Reach - 435
Stack - 640
Top tube effective - 584
Seat tube ct - 445
Seat tube effective - 662
wheelbase = 1225

2018 Motobecane Nightrain Bullet:
Reach - ?
Stack - ?
Top tube effective = 598
Seat tube CT = 444
Wheelbase = 1117

Orbea Rise Medium
Reach = 450 Large = 474
Stack = 613 Large = 627
Top tube effective - 592 Large = 619
Seat tube CT - 419 Large = 457
Wheelbase - 1205 Large = 1229


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Rise ordered...should be here next week. Now I just need to find an extender battery. I should sell the Pivot, as much as I like hoarding bikes, At 5'11", it was the Large, The XL would be too much bike to handle on tighter trails.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Flyer said:


> Rise ordered...should be here next week. Now I just need to find an extender battery. I should sell the Pivot, as much as I like hoarding bikes, At 5'11", it was the Large, The XL would be too much bike to handle on tighter trails.


Good selection. If I were 4 inches shorter I would for sure, buy the large.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I'm usually on the fence between L/XL and went with XL, still had to go up to 70 stem and the saddle is slid back most of the way. Seems they are sized a little small but I'm sure the L will fit you fine. As much as I like my Rise for trail riding part of me would like to have a 2nd full power emtb for some days, but my wife would kill me


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> Good selection. If I were 4 inches shorter I would for sure, buy the large.


For a second, you made me feel like I was seriously short😀. I found an extender too, so I'm good for any ride I want to do.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Are the extenders readily available now?, last season they were impossible to find


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I could not find any at all. I called maybe 10 shops and looked online forever. I found one at a local shop. I was going to keep looking around so if I find another, I'll post up here for anyone who wants one.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Tickle said:


> Are the extenders readily available now?, last season they were impossible to find


Unless you find a lucky unsold one sitting in a shop…the last batch was sold out….next batch should be hitting the US In the coming weeks


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I'm thinking that without the extender and in mostly Eco and some Trail, I should (under 180 lbs) get 3,500 ft and 35 miles easily. In all Eco, maybe 4K and 40. So the extender should give me close to 2K and 18 miles more. That's a pretty big ride. I live in Colorado so definitely lots of climbing and hardly any flatter trails.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

my rise m will do ~3,500' of climbing and 20 miles in trail/boost on profile 2 and it will be stone dead at the end of the ride. With the range extender, I can get 4,500'/25mi in trail/boost and run it on fumes. I've done a few rides and mixed eco in for about 1,500' worth of climbing and then mostly trail after that with it in boost for a few short climbs, that will get me to about 5,000'-25mi. If i were to basically ride it in eco only, I could maybe extend it to 6,000' of climbing, but I would seriously doubt it... maybe when the battery was new, but I have about 1,000 miles on mine and with the small amount of degradation, it would be a push to get to that at this point.


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Still waiting for my H10. Apparently, Orbea is a little slow to ship them


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I THINK I'll mostly be in Eco and some Trail, but rarely in Boost. I'll try to test it out soon. If I have to (on long rides) I'll carry two extenders. I wanted the lighter weight of the M series. My Pivot is not super heavy at 46 lbs but lighter is better for me.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

So the extender only netted an additional 5 miles?!

The most I’ve gotten out of the built in battery is 22 miles and about 2200 ft give or take on Tunnel Vision in Bella Vista Arkansas. This was mostly Trail mode and turning it off on the downhill sections. 

I would like to get the extender but if 5 miles is all it adds…not sure if it’s worth it.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

That seems odd. Given the battery size, 5 miles seems too little unless it has been significantly degraded. This can happen if the battery has been deeply discharged several times or is otherwise compromised. 

Anyway, if anyone wants an extra (new) range extender, let me know. Prefer local sale in the Denver-ish area since they are expensive to ship. I paid $630 ($30 shipping though tax would be at least that) and don't need two.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Damn not a good time with a couple house projects and a new HVAC system otherwise I would jump on that flyer. BTW, I've done 30 miles and 3k climbing in 90% trail mode, mix in eco and 35 miles and 3-4k is possible, I'm 220 naked. I use trail 90% time, eco feels like riding a regular MTB so what's the point other than preserving battery, boost is too much don't really use it except for bailout and stupid steep pitches


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

That’s impressive! Is that the M or H? If I could get 25-30 miles out of mine, I wouldn’t complain a bit. As is, I think a range extender would almost do me perfect-I prefer to run in turbo/boost on most trails but if I have to I’ll dial it back to trail to maintain distance.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

GatorXman said:


> Heads up for anyone trying to decide on what spec to buy...
> Do NOT get the M-TEAM 20mph. I bought it thinking that I would not have to swap anything except the grips. I am about 8 rides in Central Florida and this is where I stand:
> 
> Grips swapped (expected)
> ...


The M-TEAM was supposed to come with Carbon wheels, so they can't "dent". I'm surprised you didn't mention swapping that absurd (barely) roadie saddle mine came with. Sold it on eBay and put a real MTB saddle on it.

And of course, if your bike came with the e*thirteen carbon crankarms, you need to get those swapped out ASAP. Orbea will provide you with EM900 (XTR) crankarms.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

evan9r said:


> That’s impressive! Is that the M or H? If I could get 25-30 miles out of mine, I wouldn’t complain a bit. As is, I think a range extender would almost do me perfect-I prefer to run in turbo/boost on most trails but if I have to I’ll dial it back to trail to maintain distance.


It's the M, what kind of mileage/vert do you get in boost mode? Seems like I've read even better results from some here but guess it just matters how much your actually in eco compared to trail or boost


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

RickBullottaPA said:


> The M-TEAM was supposed to come with Carbon wheels, so they can't "dent". I'm surprised you didn't mention swapping that absurd (barely) roadie saddle mine came with. Sold it on eBay and put a real MTB saddle on it.
> 
> And of course, if your bike came with the e*thirteen carbon crankarms, you need to get those swapped out ASAP. Orbea will provide you with EM900 (XTR) crankarms.


I have the M LTD, no issues yet, very happy so far


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

RickBullottaPA said:


> The M-TEAM was supposed to come with Carbon wheels, so they can't "dent". I'm surprised you didn't mention swapping that absurd (barely) roadie saddle mine came with. Sold it on eBay and put a real MTB saddle on it.
> 
> And of course, if your bike came with the e*thirteen carbon crankarms, you need to get those swapped out ASAP. Orbea will provide you with EM900 (XTR) crankarms.


LTD comes with Carbon wheels, M-Team comes w/ RF Turbine Alu Wheels.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Extended the fork to 160 last night. Fox 36 Grip2 160mm up front, 8.5x2.5" Fox DHX2 in the rear. (160mm F /161mm R travel) I may also test out a Fox 38 Grips2 170mm out on it w/ a 9point8 Slack-R headset -1.2 degrees as I just like to tinker a bit to see what different setups feel like. Currently without offset bushings STA still above 77, HTA 65. BB 348mm which is similar to the current Orbea Rallon.


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## PS mtb (10 mo ago)

Quick few laps today. Hooked up with a 28 year old triathlete that coaches the mtb team In Crested Butte riding a Pivot firebird, guy was a friggen hammer...at 63 years old I had it in tr








ail mostly, and could hang on the climbs, downhill I was right with him. Maxxis Rekons are not suitable for this bike, will change them next week.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

PS mtb said:


> I have the M LTD, no issues yet, very happy so far


Did you swap the saddle? Also, make sure to take advantage of Orbea's offer to provide you a free set of EM900 (XTR) crank arms.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

RickBullottaPA said:


> Did you swap the saddle? Also, make sure to take advantage of Orbea's offer to provide you a free set of EM900 (XTR) crank arms.


Can you provide more info on the "free" XTR cranks? Is this for a specific model ?


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

dp400 said:


> Can you provide more info on the "free" XTR cranks? Is this for a specific model ?


AFAIK it is for all Orbea Rise bikes that came with e*thirteen carbon cranks. Here's the email I received:

"Hello. You have recently purchased an *RISE M-LTD 20mph equipped with e*thirteen Race Carbon cranks*.
Our suppliers, e*thirteen and Shimano, have informed us that they have identified a possible incompatibility issue between the e*thirteen Race Carbon cranks and the Shimano EP8 RS motor shaft that your bike is equipped with. This incompatibility can cause damage to the motor shaft, causing it to completely break in the worst-case scenario.
Given the uncertainty of when e*thirteen will be able to supply a crank that’s 100% compatible with this motor, we are contacting you about delivering a *new set of top-of-the-range Shimano FC-EM900 cranks*, the best available cranks on the market for this motor model. We want to ensure you have a reliable, high-quality product as soon as possible so that you can continue to enjoy your bike.
To obtain your cranks, we ask that you visit your official Orbea dealer and show them this email. Your dealer will take care of processing the request to Orbea and installing the new cranks on your Rise."


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## mvray (Jul 26, 2007)

Have an H15 for over a month now. Saddle was replaced after first ride. Rekon tire was gone too (it sucks). Moved Dissector to the rear and put an Assegai up front. Set up tubeless. Stock brakes are inadequate for this bike. Put a 203 rotor up front which helped. 4 piston brake set is next. Do like the Fox 36 fork and rear shock.


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

mvray said:


> Have an H15 for over a month now. Saddle was replaced after first ride. Rekon tire was gone too (it sucks). Moved Dissector to the rear and put an Assegai up front. Set up tubeless. Stock brakes are inadequate for this bike. Put a 203 rotor up front which helped. 4 piston brake set is next. Do like the Fox 36 fork and rear shock.


I upgraded to XT 4 piston brakes and factory suspension from the factory. Float X/ Fox 36 are great. I did swap volume spacer in the rear to the smaller one. For me the 36 was best as 150. I'm a bigger guy, and when I swapped the airshaft to 160, the 36 got a bit flexy for me. I just went to a Fox 38 today which is overkill for most but suits me as a Super Clyde just fine.


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## dp400 (Jul 27, 2011)

I just got my H15 yesterday. Ordered it with 4 piston XTs with bigger rotors. Fit new seat and swapped the front tire to the rear and Assigai to the front. Not a big fan of the bar rise/bend so ordered a one up carbon bar. 
First ride tomorrow. I must say this H15 feels heavy!! I'm used to riding a friends M20 and this H feels much heavier - which it is. Hopefully it rides lighter than it is - ~ 46lbs.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

dp400 said:


> I just got my H15 yesterday. Ordered it with 4 piston XTs with bigger rotors. Fit new seat and swapped the front tire to the rear and Assigai to the front. Not a big fan of the bar rise/bend so ordered a one up carbon bar.
> First ride tomorrow. I must say this H15 feels heavy!! I'm used to riding a friends M20 and this H feels much heavier - which it is. Hopefully it rides lighter than it is - ~ 46lbs.


Well ya! 4.5-5lbs makes a huge difference and the reason I wouldn't ever consider buying an H Rise.


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## Jack7782 (Jan 1, 2009)

Ripbird said:


> Well ya! 4.5-5lbs makes a huge difference and the reason I wouldn't ever consider buying an H Rise.


Food for thought - at 46 lbs. you are getting close to some 'heavy" Emtbs with "full size batteries - like the Heckler XT build @ 48.54 lbs


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

dp400 said:


> I just got my H15 yesterday. Ordered it with 4 piston XTs with bigger rotors. Fit new seat and swapped the front tire to the rear and Assigai to the front. Not a big fan of the bar rise/bend so ordered a one up carbon bar.
> First ride tomorrow. I must say this H15 feels heavy!! I'm used to riding a friends M20 and this H feels much heavier - which it is. Hopefully it rides lighter than it is - ~ 46lbs.


The bigger battery makes up most of the weight difference, plus another pound in the difference in the added suspension weight of the Float X/36. Throw a range extender on the m20 and then weights would be a bit more comparable. My H15 is 45lbs but I threw another 4K into it in upgrades but it rides more like a E-Rallon now but 9.5lbd lighter than my Trek Rail 7 which is highly customized as well. My friends stock m20 in definitely lighter but I wouldn't call the H15 heavy by any means, but then again heavy is relative to ones strength. Luckily I can lift my Rail overhead with one arm....and never found the Rail to feel heavy on trail but def too heavy to pedal without power. I can pedal my H15 without power although wouldn't choose to when dead tired at the end of a 25mile ride....


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## BigJZ74 (Jul 18, 2010)

Jack7782 said:


> Food for thought - at 46 lbs. you are getting close to some 'heavy" Emtbs with "full size batteries - like the Heckler XT build @ 48.54 lbs
> View attachment 1980767


True but for me, I went for a Rise because I didn't need the full power of a full fat eMTB. Even with the Heckler at 48.5 lbs I'd rather save the 3lbs with the H15 which is $4k less than the Heckler XT. Even comparing my Custom H15 to the Heckler XT w/ a wheel upgrade, H15 $10.5k vs Heckler XT $13.2K


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Had an H10 on order since last year. Now pushed back to late May. They're still waiting for the frame to arrive apparently.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

I am building up a Rise H15 for a friend.

Pulling it out of the box I noticed that one of the wires seems to be a bit short. It exits the downtube (more or less) attached to the dropper housing.

It is clearly meant to plug into the bottom of the head unit. 

But it isn't long enough to do this. Several inches short.

This pic shows what/where it is:










I have gently massaged that wire as much as i can to get more of it to emerge from the downtube. But I still don't have enough to work with, and it doesn't seem like any more is going to come out.

Suggestions?


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## jupitersending (Nov 10, 2021)

mikesee said:


> I am building up a Rise H15 for a friend.
> 
> Pulling it out of the box I noticed that one of the wires seems to be a bit short. It exits the downtube (more or less) attached to the dropper housing.
> 
> ...


drop the fork, undo the zip tie and you have more cable.


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

jupitersending said:


> drop the fork, undo the zip tie and you have more cable.



Thanks. That helped a bit.

I dropped the fork and could feel a coupla zip ties up inside the downtube, but couldn't come close to getting them out into the head tube where I could snip anything. I removed the housing access port and was able to just barely move one of those zip ties over to the port. Snipped it with some side cutters and was able to pull more wire out. I think we’re good.

Next: brakes needed to be bled right outta the box. Normal for Orbea? Casualty of covid -- not enough wrenches to do the actual work?


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

I just put a 40mm riser bar on my Rise M10.

Being a shorter guy 170cm (5'7") on a Medium frame I found the front end a little difficult to lift compared to my old bike and it has caught me out a few times. For example, say you are going off a small drop at lower speed and normally I would just kind of manual off the drop. Well with this bike I have had the front end come down too soon and ended up almost crashing several times. I don't know if its just the longer chainstay you get with a 29er or maybe its just a 29er thing, this is my first one. Anyway I hoped the riser bar would give me the extra reach I needed to get my weight further back in this situation and it has. Normally I prefer a lower front end for cornering but I haven't found the riser bar to be a problem here and it also feels really nice when dropping into steep technical sections of trail with the slightly higher front end, actually it's very confidence inspiring and I have been smashing a lot of PB's on Strava since the upgrade.


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## zorg (Jul 1, 2004)

Got the H10 with the Fox 36. Pretty happy with it. It's really poppy and eager to jump. Definitely a fun bike.


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

Here is a summary of all the upgrades I've done on the bike since picking it up back in February. It was pretty good out of the box but some things had to change.











Cranks - The standard E13 Cranks that come on the Rise have a habit of coming loose and then falling off mid ride. E13 tried to remedy this by changing the design of the preload bolts to add more threads. I didn't see this as a proper solution and once your crank comes loose you are going to do permanent damage to the spline on the main axle which is on an ebike is the motor not a bottom bracket. I actually swapped the XT Cranks onto the bike in the first week of ownership. While I was there I went from a 32T chainring up to a 34T. I actually think it needs a 36T but 34T is the largest size that Orbea recommend.
Seat - The seat it came with was just so uncomfortable. I tried to get on with it but any ride longer than an hour left me in pain. I did the whole measure your sit bones thing with cardboard and chose the appropriate SQLab saddle to suit me. I won't say its perfect but its a huge improvement.
Riser Bar - There was nothing wrong with the RaceFace carbon bar that came on the bike, this was more of a geometry fix for me. This bike is my first 29er and also my first bike with "modern" geometry. I find the cockpit reasonably short and maybe even spot on for my size but had a bit of trouble lifting the front wheel off the ground. I'm not sure if this is due to the larger back wheel, longer chainstay than I'm used to and/or possibly just the weight of the battery in the downtube. The 40mm riser bar was certainly the right move, it just gives me the ability to get my body weight a little further back over the rear wheel and lift the front with ease when I need to.
Mud Guards - Well it never bloody stops raining, this bike has seen nothing but mud since I got it and the mud guards do keep some of the linkages clean, front fork stanchions and my back side.
Headset - I noticed my headset had become loose recently, after tightening it a little I noticed it was notchy. After removing the fork I found the bottom bearing completely rusted out. I was just going to buy a new lower bearing but could only find the low end models in stock so I just ended up going with a Chris King, bloody expensive but in my experience they are worth it.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Where did you buy the XT crank arms?


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## HighFive! (Jan 12, 2008)

evan9r said:


> Where did you buy the XT crank arms?


Part number 
*FC-M8150*

I have a friend that works at Shimano that ordered them for me.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

evan9r said:


> Where did you buy the XT crank arms?











Shimano XT M8150 E-MTB Crank Arm Set - Black


Shimano XT M8150 E-MTB Crank Arm Set Deore XT branded replacement crank arm for E-bikes various lengths available 160mm, 165mm, 170mm, 175mm HOLLOWTECH II crankarm technology providing the best balance between stiffness, strength, weight and rotating performance This is a genuine Shimano...




cambriabike.com


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

The main pivot, the upper one, on my rise is clicking. I fixed it temporaryily by removing and then greasing the pinch bolts and torquing to spec. 

But it came back in one ride. 

Any long term fixes?


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Is that the pivot the little red tool that comes with the bike is for?, the one that threads in on one side. I'm assuming your supposed to loosen pinch bolts and snug the one side down w/tool but not sure.


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## Ripbird (Jun 25, 2020)

Tickle said:


> Is that the pivot the little red tool that comes with the bike is for?, the one that threads in on one side. I'm assuming your supposed to loosen pinch bolts and snug the one side down w/tool but not sure.


The main pivot is down by the chainring I believe.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

He said the upper one tho, if it's still clicking maybe the link needs tightening w/the tool I mentioned??


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Anyone with an XL M series know the max insertion length on the seatube? I'm looking at the Wolf Tooth 200mm dropper and it says 290mm or about 11.5", I'm probably gonna use most if not all of that from my measurements, thought I'd ask before I mess w removing post and measuring.

Also wanted to replace the E13 cranks w Shimano, do I need to replace chainring as well? Thx


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## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

Tickle said:


> Anyone with an XL M series know the max insertion length on the seatube? I'm looking at the Wolf Tooth 200mm dropper and it says 290mm or about 11.5", I'm probably gonna use most if not all of that from my measurements, thought I'd ask before I mess w removing post and measuring.
> 
> Also wanted to replace the E13 cranks w Shimano, do I need to replace chainring as well? Thx


You don't. I did because there are postings about that chainring ripping off and leaving no way to get the crank arm off. Because you need to have the chainring on and the chain on to act like a cassette chain tool in order to remove the lockring.





Orbea Rise Issue


Hi all, Ive had a Rise for less than a week, amazing bikes, lots of fun. Issue is, the chain ring has snapped, so the fun has stopped. its completley come off the crank, the inner part is still there, mounted to the crank and is still attached, and the whole outta peice has come off. anyone...




www.emtbforums.com


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

I was concerned with the Shimano crank fitting correctly w the E13 chainring cause it has the recessed area for the lock ring and the E13 crank arm uses the plastic cover thingy. I was thinking replacing the chainring when I replace chain/cassette, which still have some life, but wasn't sure if the E13 chainring would play well w Shimano cranks.


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## mike_kelly (Jul 18, 2016)

I think I remember reading about issues with the chain guide rubbing but not sure. I used a FSA 104bcd spyder and through away the chain guide.


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