# Cannondale M800 Advice



## greg86z28 (Feb 18, 2021)

Hello -

New to the forums. From central Wisconsin and an occasional biker (primarily a runner but enjoy some occasional road biking). We have two young children and have a Burley pull behind trailer. Last summer I used a loaner bike from my parents, but I'd like to get something nice of my own to cruise around with the kids. Part of the reason I didn't get something sooner was that I have this 1993 Cannondale M800 (build date 12/1992) "Beast of the East" that needs a complete overhaul that I always thought would be cool to restore/rehab. It was a friend's daily commuter and he gave it to me last spring (I have no money in it). My goal for a rebuild would be to strip down to the frame, powdercoat + add new decals, and replace any components that are either worn or cosmetically poor.

However, I'm a little worried that the bike is too large for me. It's the 22" frame (the largest they made). I'm 6'0 with a pretty average build. This bike seems to really stretch me out. Stand over height seems to be somewhat similar to my road bike. Before I dump money into it I wanted to make sure it's the right fit. Part of me thinks the 20" version of this bike is probably the right fit, but it's hard to say since I don't have a 18" or 20" variant to try out.

In summary the main use would be riding with the kids in the bike trailer, mostly around town or crushed gravel trails (probably would run a tire more suited to that than the factory original type tire). Just trying to get some input on what to do or where to go. I really like the bike, I think Cannondale's styling from that era is really cool.

Here are some pictures:

























Thanks

Greg


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## pinguwin (Aug 20, 2004)

Generally, this group frowns on repainting it, keep it original, we are a vintage group after all.

As far as the sizing goes, it's definitely too big for you off road but it might not be so bad for your listed uses. You say the stand over is like your road bike but how you've said it will be used, gravel trails and towing kids might not make this such a bad thing. I would never say ride this on a hard trail but it doesn't sound like you're going to do that. A new, shorter stem is a cheap upgrade for feeling stretched.

Some new cables and housing would be in order for sure. The shifters might not work so well, but you can open them up and spray some lube into them and they are often back to new. There are descriptions on this group how to recondition them, it's not hard. Not sure of the derailleur condition but the pedals have to go.

Given that it's size might be suitable for your uses but not perfect, I'd definitely skip a repaint. Why spend money on cosmetics for a bike that isn't a guaranteed long term one? But again, if you intend to start trail riding, this isn't the one.


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## D. Inoobinati (Aug 28, 2020)

Replace the stem with a shorty and you won't feel so stretched out.
That paint looks like crap. Since you're going to completely remove all of the parts and recondition them, I'd definitely consider either a full strip or a re-paint. A good auto-grade primer and metal fleck tone paint and it'll look killer. I stripped mine completely down to the metal and left it at that. These aren't exactly heirlooms.

You'd be surprised how those things clean up.


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## jimPacNW (Feb 26, 2013)

I had an '88 M800, my brother had one like that later, I was 6'3" at that time and a 22" was good for me, my bro was 6'1" and mine was too bike, - he always rode a 20". BUT: with the sloping top tube and for what you're using it for, it would be worth trying out, and might work just fine, but it would be sad if you put a huge amount of work into it and decided it was too big & uncomfortable.

That old XT and LX stuff was really well built, I would just clean it and lube everything, and ride it. Those shifters are old enough that the ratchets might be a little gummed up, if that is the case, you can clean them by spraying them out with PLASTIC SAFE electronics cleaner (I use CRC from the auto parts store), and then lube with tri-flow, - don't take them apart, they're not really made to be taken all apart, just give them a good spray out. Clean and lube all the cables, new brake pads most likely too: it's a little bit of an art to setup cantilevers, so do a little research and take your time, - they can actually work quite well when adjusted properly. I don't think you'll have to disassemble a whole lot. The chain is likely highly worn, but measure it or check it with a tool: if the chain is heavily worn but still works well, you can just keep using it and wear it out completely, then change the chainrings/chain/cassette. Those rear hubs are often neglected, a repack of the bearings is probably a good idea.

Before you give up on the paint: clean it with a rag and wd-40 and it will look a lot better (wear latex gloves, the wd-40 is a good old-bike cleaner). I bet you can find a pretty good paint match in the nail polish isle for touch ups, probably for $3.99 or less.


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## greg86z28 (Feb 18, 2021)

Hey thanks for all the advice. I think this makes sense. I need to invest in a bike repair stand. Since I've never tackled bike work before (mostly into muscle cars), I think maybe taking it apart and just getting it running at minimum cost is a good idea, and it'll be a good first learning project. I can ride it for awhile, see what I think, and always go a different direct later (without having invested much except for time and tools).

The keep it original paint comment is very interesting. I know when it comes to cars, driver quality survivors have become a big thing. It's only original once!


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

greg86z28 said:


> Hey thanks for all the advice. ... I can ride it for awhile, see what I think, and always go a different direct later (without having invested much except for time and tools).


Cool question. I loved my BotE, and have wondered what size would make sense for a resto-mod.

So, Just sayin', the top tube length is similar to a modern F-Si, so I'd say try a shorter stem and slightly wider bars and see how you like it. Worst that can happen is you learn how to wrench on vintage'ish bikes and sell it (so keep the original parts)

Edit: The Bad Boy is maybe an even better link to the BotE geometry


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## natzoo (Jan 21, 2009)

Hey, I just picked up a similar bike, a 1994 M700. Mine was in great condition an awesome bike:









Your bike looks more used, but it has really high quality XT parts. I am sure it can clean up nice to cruise around with your kids.

I have converted a few bikes from the early 90's era into city bikes. From my experience, regardless of the size, they all feel really stretched out because they have really long stems (130mm+) and the flat bars have no rise. You can mitigate this by using a shorter stem and a handlebar with more sweep. This will bring your hands back 2-3in, which makes a huge difference.

I really like the bontrager satellite trekking bar. It has some rise, and is swept back (35deg) without being too swept. It also comes in at a more reasonable 610mm width and most importantly has a 25.4 clamp diameter. Great price too! Bontrager Satellite Trekking Handlebars (35-degree) - Trek Bicycle Superstore









For a stem, try finding something with a high rise (~30deg), this will help bring the bars closer to you. There are plenty floating around on ebay, just make sure your headset is either 1in or 1 1/8in. Something like this:









To the bike running you are looking at:

bars with sweep ~$20
shorter quill stem (verify headset is 1in or 1 1/8in) ~$30
new chain $20
new tires $60-90
grips ~$10
So $100-150 total. It won't be cheap, and you will probably run into some snags along the way. However, I think there is some value to the environment when you keep older bike running and out of the scrap yard. Especially since your bike was a pretty high end bike back in the day!


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## greg86z28 (Feb 18, 2021)

That M700 looks fantastic.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

natzoo said:


> shorter quill stem (verify headset is 1in or 1 1/8in) ~$30


I don't remember the headset size in that era c'dale.. might have been an early adopter of 1-1/8.

Regardlss, another option would be quill to threadless adapter:










Edit: Might also consider a seatpost with zero setback (like on the Bad Boy above)


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## greg86z28 (Feb 18, 2021)

Thanks for the input folks.


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## Pile Driver 909 (May 24, 2021)

I just picked up a ‘93 M800 for $200 bucks. It was in this old guys basement for past 20+ years, told it had about 200 miles on it, looks anazing like it should be in a damn museum...did I do good on this deal?


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## D. Inoobinati (Aug 28, 2020)

Count on another 100 to renovate that headshock.
But, yeah, ya did good Cletus!


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

Pile Driver 909 said:


> I just picked up a '93 M800 for $200 bucks. It was in this old guys basement for past 20+ years, told it had about 200 miles on it, looks anazing like it should be in a damn museum...did I do good on this deal?


Fair price for a BotE. Well done.



D. Inoobinati said:


> Count on another 100 to renovate that headshock.
> But, yeah, ya did good Cletus!


M800's never had a Headshok


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## CdaleTony (Jun 21, 2005)

These early 90's BotE take me back... Reading MBA, drooling over bikes, like an Adroit in rainforest (that I saw hanging at cycle smithy in Chicago..)

Right to my very own 1991 SM800 org/blk that I bought at Bob's bikes in park ridge. I distinctly remember the day actually.. I wanted the sm1000 but I was already over budget with the sm800...

I had to do lay away, after a couple checks it was mine! Still hangs at my mom's house..

Fun times!


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