# 2012 Carve Expert Alex built rims are not gonna make it.



## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

So after about 9 months and 1100 miles 70% street and 30% dirt my rear rim has loose spokes. I took it in for a tubeless conversion and my LBS stated that I had 5 or 6 loose spokes. They were tightened and I was told to keep an eye on them. Well, I have now noticed that there are some loose spokes again. I was told that the LBS may have to "re tension" the rim and I assume that will be the case. The rim is still true and I do not huck or jump but I do rip down hill in the dirt but for the most part I keep the tires on the dirt.

Should I be looking to get a new rear rim or assume that the "re tension" will fix the issue?

Mark


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## mjs1231 (Jan 4, 2013)

*dc 25*



millertm said:


> So after about 9 months and 1100 miles 70% street and 30% dirt my rear rim has loose spokes. I took it in for a tubeless conversion and my LBS stated that I had 5 or 6 loose spokes. They were tightened and I was told to keep an eye on them. Well, I have now noticed that there are some loose spokes again. I was told that the LBS may have to "re tension" the rim and I assume that will be the case. The rim is still true and I do not huck or jump but I do rip down hill in the dirt but for the most part I keep the tires on the dirt.
> 
> Should I be looking to get a new rear rim or assume that the "re tension" will fix the issue?
> 
> Mark


I destroyed a set of dc25 wheelset last night. All i did was a endo and twist to the side and it cushed both front and back.
Alex rims are pretty el cheapo. We had 4 sets laying around, took us 15 minutes to destroy all 4 srts.

These rims are for asain girls only.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

If budget is under pressure, you can take a swing at merely re-tensioning the wheel, which is the least I would advise. If you're having spokes lose tension in bunches, there is definitely a problem. If you have a little budget, but not much more to work with, I would at least replace the stock straight gauge spokes (assuming the rim is still in good shape) with some quality double butted spokes and brass nipples. If you have plenty-o-budget, I would look at replacing the wheel(s).

Alex rims, and Formula hubs are a step above generic house brand at most (and likely used for generic house brands too), but I still think that they should do better with a proper build. Wheelsets (and forks) are where bike companies save money and one of the best places to spend any upgrade budget on all but high end bikes. If you're going to spend money to have someone tear them down and rebuild, it makes sense for the long term to upgrade from straight gauge spokes to double butted at a minimum IMHO. At the other end of the range would be something like an Arch EX rim with a Hope Pro II (or better, since you are asking this in the clydesdale forum) rear hub.

The Carve is a nice frame and worthy of an upgrade if you like the bike and plan to keep it for a while.

You might want to keep an eye on the front wheel too.


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## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

I spent $15 for the re-tensioning today, I was told that this is common practice for these wheels. I will be looking for a Stans-flow in the near future but funds are a bit tight at this time. The outer is still in good shape and since I have been riding a bit I am getting stronger and spinning up hills in taller gears. Since I am a good 300lbs my rear rim is getting a workout. Front rim is fine for now since I am not jumping or hitting curbs it should last a bit longer. I will budget $300 or less for a rear rim so I am now looking at what is out there for a 10spd, tubeless, 29er. Weight is not an issue, but any upgrade should be ligher then what I have now.

Mark


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## shamrok (Aug 2, 2012)

millertm said:


> I spent $15 for the re-tensioning today, I was told that this is common practice for these wheels. I will be looking for a Stans-flow in the near future but funds are a bit tight at this time. The outer is still in good shape and since I have been riding a bit I am getting stronger and spinning up hills in taller gears. Since I am a good 300lbs my rear rim is getting a workout. Front rim is fine for now since I am not jumping or hitting curbs it should last a bit longer. I will budget $300 or less for a rear rim so I am now looking at what is out there for a 10spd, tubeless, 29er. Weight is not an issue, but any upgrade should be ligher then what I have now.
> 
> Mark


did the carve not come with Stout SL's? think those run 200-250 bucks a set MSRP - pretty sturdy rim (6'2" 210-15lbs-er here and heavy trail use)


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## mjs1231 (Jan 4, 2013)

*cross country rims ?*



shamrok said:


> did the carve not come with Stout SL's? think those run 200-250 bucks a set MSRP - pretty sturdy rim (6'2" 210-15lbs-er here and heavy trail use)


Why are you guys running cross country rims on a mtb? Especially on 29ers ?

look, those rims wont work good for your application. If you have 29 in wheel on a mountbike and you are not running freeride wheels you are going to get nickle and dimmed.

I see it in every forum. People running xcountry and have to get trued over and over.
I would just plane refuse.

I run sunringle mtx33 with 13 guage with 36 spokes on a xl hardtail. I set the bike up and forget it. Im 6'2 200 naked, with clothes, gear and a camelback 225 lbs.


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## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

shamrok said:


> did the carve not come with Stout SL's? think those run 200-250 bucks a set MSRP - pretty sturdy rim (6'2" 210-15lbs-er here and heavy trail use)


They came with the Stout 29er rims, Formula hubs and Alexbuilt. About the SL, I am not sure that they are Super Light. In fact they are about 3100g for the pair (W/O tires).

Mark


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## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

mjs1231 said:


> Why are you guys running cross country rims on a mtb? Especially on 29ers ?
> 
> look, those rims wont work good for your application. If you have 29 in wheel on a mountbike and you are not running freeride wheels you are going to get nickle and dimmed.
> 
> I run sunringle mtx33 with 13 guage with 36 spokes on a xl hardtail. I set the bike up and forget it. Im 6'2 200 naked, with clothes, gear and a camelback 225 lbs.


Yea, you are right. Instead of buying a better set of rims, I got my son a left over 2012 RH comp 29er. Now I am hurting for cash a bit. I am looking for a rear rim in the $300 range but have not come across anything that is tubeless and strong in a 12X142. If you can point me in the right direction I would be grateful. This rim has been ok so far and since the $15 work it is holding up.

Mark


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Handspun Trail Series 13 Rear Wheel 29'ER 32h x 9 142mm No Tubes Flow | eBay

The flow rim is about the strongest tubeless rim. Not sure about the x9 hub for clydes, it does have a three pawl engagement.


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## millertm (Jul 20, 2012)

Sasquatch1413 said:


> Handspun Trail Series 13 Rear Wheel 29'ER 32h x 9 142mm No Tubes Flow | eBay
> 
> The flow rim is about the strongest tubeless rim. Not sure about the x9 hub for clydes, it does have a three pawl engagement.


Nice, that is what I am looking for. 
Thanks,

Mark


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

If money's tight, maybe get a Flow EX laced to your hub. Use DT Spokes 2.0/1.8/2.0 and brass nipples. 

I had DT Swiss rims on my stumpjumper and they came with alloy nipples. I knew the day I bought my bike that weren't going to be long for this world. My rear rim spent more time in the shop than on the bike. 
I finally relaced the hub to a Salsa rim with DT spokes and brass nipples and end of problem.


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