# Santa Cruz Highball XXL - 100mm or 120mm fork for taller rider?? Advice needed



## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Hello, 1st time poster...building up a Santa Cruz Highball 29er in XXL frame. 6'6" (bare feet, 6'7" in shoes), 39" inseam, really long arms and 225lbs so decided to build as opposed to buying complete.

Not sure if I should use a 100mm travel fork or jump up to 120mm travel due to my size. The Highball is approved for both 100 and 120. My LBS is helping me do the build and they recommend going up to 120mm but I thought I would come here and seek what fellow taller riders think. I chose the hardtail Highball for speed but my overall riding will be singletrack trail riding, longer rides and nothing too aggressive as far as catching air (or falling).

i know going to 120 will slacken the HT angle and raise the BB height just a tad. But will it shorten the effective top tube at all and what are your thoughts on the effects of handling, speed and climbing? I am just wondering if our taller dimensions lessen the effect of the 120mm fork compared to a 100mm on smaller riders?

any experiences and advice is appreciated.

thanks!!

ryan


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

The only thing worth considering is the trails you intend to ride. If they're fairly smooth, flowy trails but you can't carry a heap of speed-- go 100. If you have some chop or ride up mellow grades to reach fun descents-- go 120. If you're a beginner/intermediate rider go 120 but if the downhill is just a pleasant way to get to the next climb go 100. Either way, a really quality fork is going to pay dividends in how much fun you have. Most modern forks will allow you to switch between 100 and 120 for under 50$ in parts, so that's a super desirable feature in a fork.


If you're expecting a well-rounded hardtail that's a total blast all the time... abandon ship cuz the highball is a bike for climbs.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

120.

That is the travel I have on my Banshee Paradox. I get some flop and loop out on the steepest climbs if I'm inattentive but it's easily managed if I mind it. Definitely more fun than 100 would be when pointing down due to some slackening and the extra travel is good at that point.

My proportions are about the same as yours.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Thanks for the info. Definitely leaning towards the 120mm. Looks like a Rockshox Reba 120 is available for a good deal.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

From one big guy to another, go for the 120mm. I would also look at the 34 or pike at your weight. Unless you are building an XC weapon the stronger fork will just be better everywhere. The longer fork will help raise the front end too.
Reach will be similar to a 100mm fork with 20mm of extra spacers.


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## newoldskool (Oct 8, 2005)

120 pike or similar for your size for the added stiffness.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Great, thanks for the replies.

What are your thoughts on the Rockshox Yari RC 120mm solo air? A bit more in my budget compared to the pike. To be sure, it's compatible with the highball, correct? (15x110), tapered, 51mm offset.

And btw, what does the A1, A6, A7, etc. mean for Rockshox forks??


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

The fox 34 performance is the best mid priced fork right now. They really nailed the tune and execution on the 2016/2018 models. Older ones where crap.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/fox-34-float-grip-review-2016.html


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Thanks for the link. Really like what the review says. The highball has a mixed taper, 1.5" lower and 1 1/8" upper...so I assume that if the Fox is listed as a 1.5" taper that means it tapers down to 1 1/8"??

Damn this whole process is a huge pain in my ass. everytime I find a component I like there a catch or question in compatibility whether it be wheels, tires, hubs, brakes, forks...this bike better be fun...


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

Stack was way too low for me on the Highball XXL. I'm 6'6" with a 38" inseam. I ended up with a XXL Tallboy...much more comfortable for me. Test ride if you can, Highball is aggressive and stiff as hell for regular riding. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Do you mean Reach or top tube length and not stack? According to SC website the Highball has a longer stack at 642mm to the Tallboy 631mm.


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

You are correct, I typed the wrong measurement. My 2016 Tallboy 2 XXL has 639 stack and 459 reach. When I tested the XXL Highball, it definitely had a pure XC race feel. Very stretched out and much more aggressive riding position. I don't want to discourage you from your bike choice, but test ride if you can. The Highball is probably one of the stiffest bikes on the market. It would not be a bike I would want to ride for longer than a typical XC race. I took it for a typical loop on my local trails, and I was beat to hell after riding it for about 45 minutes. It's a rocket, but that's what it was intended for.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

OP, curious exactly what/why you're building this bike? From what you posted so far, looks like you're looking for a nice XC/Trail bike and if it were me, at your height, I would definitely go for the Chameleon over the Highball.

The Chameleon is a more "fun" type HT with a bit more relaxed angles and has the ability to go with either 29" wheels or 650B+, which for me is a very good thing _(all my HTs are now B+)_. Also, the Chameleon has 15mm more Reach than the Highball, although does have 20mm lower stack, but it is most definitely designed for a 120mm fork, ,so in using one, you will not loose any of the Reach, whereas if you use a 120mm on the HB, you will loose some reach.

Also, as others have said, at you size, definitely nothing less than a 34mm stanchion fork, anything less and you loose steering precision and you get to watch the fork flex for/aft with some alarm.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

AVLthumper said:


> You are correct, I typed the wrong measurement. My 2016 Tallboy 2 XXL has 639 stack and 459 reach. When I tested the XXL Highball, it definitely had a pure XC race feel. Very stretched out and much more aggressive riding position. I don't want to discourage you from your bike choice, but test ride if you can. The Highball is probably one of the stiffest bikes on the market. It would not be a bike I would want to ride for longer than a typical XC race. I took it for a typical loop on my local trails, and I was beat to hell after riding it for about 45 minutes. It's a rocket, but that's what it was intended for.


Thanks for the input. I really like the tallboy as well, I wish I could test ride one of those. I come from a roadie past and I was looking for a rocket, honestly. Plus the tallboy would punch me in the wallet for another $1,000 (minimum)...but if my immersion back into cycling (and into mtbr for 1st time) progressively leads me to rougher and rougher terrain and wanting to put the cardio lung burning aside for more fun I see a tallboy as the next step.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

LyNx said:


> OP, curious exactly what/why you're building this bike? From what you posted so far, looks like you're looking for a nice XC/Trail bike and if it were me, at your height, I would definitely go for the Chameleon over the Highball.
> 
> The Chameleon is a more "fun" type HT with a bit more relaxed angles and has the ability to go with either 29" wheels or 650B+, which for me is a very good thing _(all my HTs are now B+)_. Also, the Chameleon has 15mm more Reach than the Highball, although does have 20mm lower stack, but it is most definitely designed for a 120mm fork, ,so in using one, you will not loose any of the Reach, whereas if you use a 120mm on the HB, you will loose some reach.
> 
> Also, as others have said, at you size, definitely nothing less than a 34mm stanchion fork, anything less and you loose steering precision and you get to watch the fork flex for/aft with some alarm.


Well I come from a roadie background and always wanted to get a mtb. Finally making the leap and I figure a hardtail will be somewhat closer to what I'm used to, and I'll be able to hit some trails and have some fun while still going hard and finishing a ride/workout with burning lungs, numb legs and wanting to throw up. (I need therapy, I know...or maybe that is my therapy.)

Yes, I'll be using this for XC/Trail but in the sense of busting my a**...just having more fun while doing it than I'm used to. But if I find myself paying less attention to my heart rate and more to the fun stuff I can't quite pull off with a Highball I will look at adding to the stable. Plus if that does happen I figure having 2 bikes that have a larger gap in their riding styles would be a good thing...but that's down the road (no pun intended).

i checked out the Chameleon too but honestly I was able to pick up a brand new Highball C frame for $750...so I jumped on it. Plus it's a little fun getting to spec out my bike completely for me vs buying a complete and changing out components. I'll have to play around with the fitting of the cockpit as with every bike the geo is different but I think it will be fine. I think some spacers and choosing flat/riser bars will help square it out. It'll have the new GX Eagle 1x12 so I'm excited to check that out.

And thank you for the advice on the fork, I appreciate it. I have really researched this and definitely going with a 120mm w/34/35 stanchions. Found a 2017 Pike RC 120 ($600) and a 2017 Fox Float 34 Factory ($660). Best prices I could find so I'm just deciding on which one. Probably the pike as its cheaper and has the all black stealth look, which is great. (But the fox is a touch lighter, but not sure if .20 lbs will matter.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

rian4224 said:


> Thanks for the input. I really like the tallboy as well, I wish I could test ride one of those. I come from a roadie past and I was looking for a rocket, honestly. Plus the tallboy would punch me in the wallet for another $1,000 (minimum)...but if my immersion back into cycling (and into mtbr for 1st time) progressively leads me to rougher and rougher terrain and wanting to put the cardio lung burning aside for more fun I see a tallboy as the next step.


Typically when i see roadies venture in to MTB land they're drawn to race-worthy XC bikes. It's usually exactly the opposite of what they need- they come in with a great motor and mediocre offroad bike handling. The racy XC bikes give up a lot of stability and forgiveness to eke out marginal gains for passing other racers on singletrack climbs. A rider who is coming in to a racy XC bike without a bag full of bike handling chops can't really make use of those gains, and contrarily their skills progression is hampered by unforgiving handling.

A more trail-focused bike, like the chameleon, climbs 99% as well in the real world and offers a much more intuitive, rewarding ride on fun trails. Ironically, the FS bikes duplicate the road bike experience better than a hardtail; the rider can sit and spin their cadence and duplicate their usually stiff riding style (no offense intended, roadies don't have to bounce through chop) without getting punished by the bike.

Of course, if you don't have any interesting trails maybe you don't need any extra stability. Personally, at that point i'm happier riding road.

I hope you have a blast with whatever you decide to do, just trying to add a perspective. :thumbsup:


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

OP, I get where you're coming from, but I think Scottzg stated it perfectly and what I was getting at, most roadies just don't have the skills off road to go with their engine, so having a bike to instill that confidence with minimal climbing efficiency is a better option. 

What he said is exactly true and I proved it the other day when I took a female friend and her son out for an MTB ride, she borrowed one of my HTs and she couldn't figure out why, despite it being an easy ride, she was huffing and puffing, so I had to explain to her that on the road, she just either sits and spins or stands and hammers without worry for traction, on the trail, on a HT you have to act as suspension and climbing you have to be constantly balancing your weight to keep traction front and rear.


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## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

Pike 120

Manitou minute pro 120

And listen to scottz. I see a lot of this in racing. People coming from road that get a hardtail for a budget or efficiency. They get thrashed on the trail at speeds. Full suspension isn't all about comfort as it is traction. Without thousands of miles on the MTB, you won't have those skills on the hardtail.

As your skills sharpen, you can get away with less grippy tires and a hardtail. 

Unless of course you try a plus hardtail which is a different animal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

AVLthumper said:


> Stack was way too low for me on the Highball XXL. I'm 6'6" with a 38" inseam. I ended up with a XXL Tallboy...much more comfortable for me. Test ride if you can, Highball is aggressive and stiff as hell for regular riding.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have a dropper on your tallboy? Which one did you use and what length? What dropper (or rigid for that matter) length would you recommend? I would imagine a 400+ rigid would be necessary and I don't know about dropper options.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

rian4224 said:


> Do you have a dropper on your tallboy? Which one did you use and what length? What dropper (or rigid for that matter) length would you recommend? I would imagine a 400+ rigid would be necessary and I don't know about dropper options.


100mm of drop is sufficient for a bike that fits well and isn't ridden in the mountains. 125 will fit most circumstances if the bike fits right. 150mm should work for anyone on any trail, provided their bike fit doesn't suck. The extra long droppers exist, but they're mostly for the 'more is better' set or people who are on too-small or poorly fitting bikes- manufacturers answering demand. As the drop gets longer it gets harder to build a durable post.

Me, i'm running gravity droppers on all my bikes. They're very ugly, have a maximum 125mm drop, and have mediocre ergonomics... but they're very light, very durable, basically maintenance free, made in america, and can be serviced in minutes with your multi-tool. If i had to downgrade i'd buy a fox transfer.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

I run a 200mm dropper on My tallboy XXL, you know because it's mo-better and the bike sucks. 

Seriously though 200mm is a lot of drop and not needed on an XC bike I have a 150 on my blur and when I used it as a trail bike it was perfect. Now that it's a race bike 100 would be better. I ride crazy steep stuff and the 200mm is nice. On regular terrain I don't lower all the way as I like to sit flowy stuff. If I had to do it again I would! At least 175mm at my height of 6"4'. :thumbsup:


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Thanks for the info, much appreciated! I see that a reverb stealth 150mm drop is 440mm length and a 170 drop is 480mm total length. I guess I am concerned to make sure the dropper is long enough to fit a taller rider as I'll have to have the seat post a little higher than normal. Does that factor in at all when picking a dropper?


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

rian4224 said:


> Do you have a dropper on your tallboy? Which one did you use and what length? What dropper (or rigid for that matter) length would you recommend? I would imagine a 400+ rigid would be necessary and I don't know about dropper options.


I use a 125mm Specialized Command Post. The overall length is 425mm. I've had nothing but trouble with hydraulic posts in the past, so I decided to try this one out. Plus, the Command Post is one of the only ones with a setback. The setback helps me get a good position over the pedals...my height is all in my legs. It's been flawless. 9point8 offers a setback head now that I'd like to try out when the time comes for a new one.

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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Well, what you have to then is figure out your BB to saddle height measurement, then subtract the Seattube measurement of the specific frame from that and you'll know how much exposed post, roughly you should need. Then figure a minimum of 100mm/4" is needed to be inserted into the frame, so tack that onto the number you have and you have the minimum length post you should get 

I have the 150mm drop 9point8 FallLine with a setback head and it's been great for me for a bit over a year, easy to service.



rian4224 said:


> Thanks for the info, much appreciated! I see that a reverb stealth 150mm drop is 440mm length and a 170 drop is 480mm total length. I guess I am concerned to make sure the dropper is long enough to fit a taller rider as I'll have to have the seat post a little higher than normal. Does that factor in at all when picking a dropper?


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

Don't buy a reverb aftermarket. Terrible post. Consider a 9.8, transfer, or gravity dropper.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Glide the Clyde said:


> 120.
> 
> That is the travel I have on my Banshee Paradox. I get some flop and loop out on the steepest climbs if I'm inattentive but it's easily managed if I mind it. Definitely more fun than 100 would be when pointing down due to some slackening and the extra travel is good at that point.
> 
> My proportions are about the same as yours.


With similar proportions may I ask what length seatpost you use (assuming it's a rigid)? It seems with 27.2 seatpost they top out at 410mm (with the occasional 420). With my measurements and from what I've been able to conclude from a few online "fit calculators" (competitive cyclist and wrench science) my exposed seatpost runs between 328mm - 304mm. Then adding on the 100mm or so for post into the frame I'm looking for a long seatpost...possibly too long???

From research i know the stock answer is "get a bigger frame"but I'm already on a XXL frame with pretty big geo for taller riders. Santa Cruz's website list 6'3"-6'7" as a rough height range for a XXL frame...I know it's very generalized but just a rough resource I used.

Any tall riders run into seatpost dilemmas? Any advice is appreciated as I obviously don't want to run too short of a post and have it not deep enough into the frame, but now this has me worried ofrunning too long of a seatpost and being perched up way too high.

I'm beyond frustrated and I'm on the fence of bailing on this whole d*mn thing and returning the frame and fork as I still have some time left to do so. And then take out a home equity loan and rob a few liquor stores to pay for a custom frame...or just golf more. (Kidding on robbing a liquor store)

Any advice is always appreciated, thanks.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

rian4224 said:


> With similar proportions may I ask what length seatpost you use (assuming it's a rigid)? It seems with 27.2 seatpost they top out at 410mm (with the occasional 420). With my measurements and from what I've been able to conclude from a few online "fit calculators" (competitive cyclist and wrench science) my exposed seatpost runs between 328mm - 304mm. Then adding on the 100mm or so for post into the frame I'm looking for a long seatpost...possibly too long???
> 
> From research i know the stock answer is "get a bigger frame"but I'm already on a XXL frame with pretty big geo for taller riders. Santa Cruz's website list 6'3"-6'7" as a rough height range for a XXL frame...I know it's very generalized but just a rough resource I used.
> 
> ...


175mm cranks +572mm seat tube length +25mm saddle stack= 772mm

I don't know your saddle-pedal distance, but at 6'3 mine is 1010mm. Yours is probably ~40mm longer, giving you ~270mm of exposed seatpost. A 400mm post will work fine, and a 420 should have plenty of safety margin. Santa Cruz knows what they're doing, don't worry about it.

Anecdotally, my 6'6 buddy rides a XXL tallboy and has about an inch of seatpost insertion before the limit line on a 410mm thomson post.

It will be more fun figuring out who makes a good 27.2 dropper. I'm happy to use this as an opportunity to shill for gravity dropper- they make a ridiculously reliable post in 27.2 with mediocre ergonomics and poor aesthetics and only 100mm drop. It's the best. :thumbsup: If you want a rigid post, get a thomson. Either way your grandkids can inherit some fantastic domestic product.


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## 6feet10 (Aug 10, 2017)

Hi Rian, I use a Shannon Harcore 500mm 27.2 post. It is really reliable not lightweight but durable. In germany ordering is no problem, maybe theyl deliver also to the US?
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shannon/Hardcore-Sattelstuetze-p56637/


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## AVLthumper (Jul 14, 2015)

rian4224 said:


> With similar proportions may I ask what length seatpost you use (assuming it's a rigid)? It seems with 27.2 seatpost they top out at 410mm (with the occasional 420). With my measurements and from what I've been able to conclude from a few online "fit calculators" (competitive cyclist and wrench science) my exposed seatpost runs between 328mm - 304mm. Then adding on the 100mm or so for post into the frame I'm looking for a long seatpost...possibly too long???
> 
> From research i know the stock answer is "get a bigger frame"but I'm already on a XXL frame with pretty big geo for taller riders. Santa Cruz's website list 6'3"-6'7" as a rough height range for a XXL frame...I know it's very generalized but just a rough resource I used.
> 
> ...


I think you will be fine with the seatpost length. I usually run 862mm from center of the bb to top of the seat, and I'm 6'6" with 38" inseam. My XXL Tallboy has a 72.4* 546mm seat tube. The Highball has a 72.5* 572mm seat tube. So, approximately 26mm or 1" taller seat tube. I currently have about 25mm of seat post to play with before hitting the minimum insertion line with a 425mm seat post (100mm minimum insertion length). So if I was riding the Highball, I would have approximatly 2" of seat tube to play with.

I think your bigger problem will be finding a decent dropper in 27.2. Keep in mind, most folks using the Highball are XC racing and likely don't use droppers due to additional weight intended purpose of the bike.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

scottzg said:


> 175mm cranks +572mm seat tube length +25mm saddle stack= 772mm
> 
> I don't know your saddle-pedal distance, but at 6'3 mine is 1010mm. Yours is probably ~40mm longer, giving you ~270mm of exposed seatpost. A 400mm post will work fine, and a 420 should have plenty of safety margin. Santa Cruz knows what they're doing, don't worry about it.
> 
> ...


Great information and you made me realize I was going from bb to top of saddle, and not subtracting the rails to saddle top measurement...big difference!! I think my saddle is conservatively 40mm from rails to top so plenty of room.

And yes, you now have me looking at droppers!


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

AVLthumper said:


> I think you will be fine with the seatpost length. I usually run 862mm from center of the bb to top of the seat, and I'm 6'6" with 38" inseam. My XXL Tallboy has a 72.4* 546mm seat tube. The Highball has a 72.5* 572mm seat tube. So, approximately 26mm or 1" taller seat tube. I currently have about 25mm of seat post to play with before hitting the minimum insertion line with a 425mm seat post (100mm minimum insertion length). So if I was riding the Highball, I would have approximatly 2" of seat tube to play with.
> 
> I think your bigger problem will be finding a decent dropper in 27.2. Keep in mind, most folks using the Highball are XC racing and likely don't use droppers due to additional weight intended purpose of the bike.


Thanks for the info. My BB to top of seat measurements is at most 910m, but probably shorter. I figured out my measurements weren't taking saddle stack into consideration (duh) so I think a 420mm post will be great and give me some wiggle room.


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## BigART (Aug 30, 2017)

Subscribed...

I'm on a Highball XXL with a Pike 140mm and a Thomson Dropper. I'm 6'6" and 322lbs.. was 370 June last year.. still working on losing more weight to get into full suspension.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

BigART said:


> Subscribed...
> 
> I'm on a Highball XXL with a Pike 140mm and a Thomson Dropper. I'm 6'6" and 322lbs.. was 370 June last year.. still working on losing more weight to get into full suspension.


Thanks BigArt! How do you like the Thomson dropper? I'm starting with a Thomson Elite rigid post but will be looking to upgrade To a dropper once the funds become available.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Personally, if you're a bigger rider, I'd skip the Thomson post for one a bit more robust.



rian4224 said:


> Thanks BigArt! How do you like the Thomson dropper? I'm starting with a Thomson Elite rigid post but will be looking to upgrade To a dropper once the funds become available.


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## BigART (Aug 30, 2017)

rian4224 said:


> Thanks BigArt! How do you like the Thomson dropper? I'm starting with a Thomson Elite rigid post but will be looking to upgrade To a dropper once the funds become available.


I had to have it service recently. It was creaking bad from some side to side play. I talked to one of the techs at Thomson and he mentioned that the plastic bushing they use to keep the post centered up and down through the travel is the issue. I've been on the rebuilt dropper for a couple weeks and it's been solid. The tech at Thomson also mentioned that if you're over 200 pounds that it will wear out the dropper sooner. I think that's obvious with anything when you're heavier than most. He also said that they're coming out with a new dropper 2.0 line that will be stronger. 2 day turnaround on their service which was appreciated.

I've seen the gravity dropper listed a few times for clydes. With a 27.2 seatpost we're limited on options. The gravity dropper post is a 100mm travel. I like the Thomson 125mm, but could probably get away with 100mm.

I love this bike. It's very comfortable. I just got back from an 18 mile ride last night. I got a new saddle that has been really good so far. It's a Serfas Rx-RR, it's only 7/10th of an ounce heavier than the WTB Pure Race I had on previously.


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## @[email protected] (Aug 25, 2017)

I'm of the opinion 120 is better than 100 because you can inflate it to a high pressure and not use all of the travel but have the extra insurance against bottoming out. With your size you need that insurance, plus, if you haven't figured it out yet, people usually gain weight as they age, so you'll likely get bigger.


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## Spinster (Apr 8, 2008)

Definitely go bigger on the fork. 
100mm is a 1990 throwback.
You have to consider that there is 'sag', and such, your 120mm fork will only have a minor amount of travel, as most forks don't give you the last half inch unless there is no air pressure. I'd say go bigger- 140mm
And pay for a decent fork, it will make a huge difference in your enjoyment of the bike.
The Fox Float and RS Pike are both good.
RS Yari are crap. 

Are you sure its a 27.2 post? Most mfgrs went bigger by 2009. 
As for 27.2 suspension posts, there are no long one out there. All those comments about Reverbs and Command Posts and Thomsens are moot. 
If you are 6'-7" you need a long 170mm min drop, and those aren't made in 27.2.

I have an old 2008 free ride bike with 27.2 and have to ride a fixed post.. 
KS used to make a 27.2 with their internals mounted exterior, but drop was only 100mm, so not worth the effort.

Good luck, its a challenge for us tall riders to make things fit.


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## BigART (Aug 30, 2017)

The Thomson snapped last Tuesday just above the seat post collar. It’s still under warranty. 

I’m exploring a new frame solely for a larger seat post diameter. I’m not sure if the dpx2 will support me on a Hightower LT though. If not, I’m thinking Chameleon.


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## rian4224 (Jul 31, 2017)

Sorry to hear that. I went with a Thomson about 3months ago for my Highball. Even though it’s only 125mm travel it still makes a huge difference for me. Can’t go back to a rigid.

If I had to get a new bike I would definitely look at the Hightower. With the 27.5” setup so I could use the 150mm fork and swap out 29or 27.5 tires. Just need to start saving pennies.


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## BigART (Aug 30, 2017)

rian4224 said:


> Sorry to hear that. I went with a Thomson about 3months ago for my Highball. Even though it's only 125mm travel it still makes a huge difference for me. Can't go back to a rigid.
> 
> If I had to get a new bike I would definitely look at the Hightower. With the 27.5" setup so I could use the 150mm fork and swap out 29or 27.5 tires. Just need to start saving pennies.


125mm is enough on my Highball. My buddy is running a Pike 160mm on his Hightower LT, he had a 125 Thomson dropper and went to a 150mm. He bought the frame only. We transferred everything from his old Flex bike to the HTLT.

I wanted the Hightower until the LT came out. Still thinking Tallboy and even the Chameleon. Not sure the Chameleon XL is large enough even though the specs looks like it has more reach than my Highball XXL.


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