# chain rubbing frame in rear smallest cog - not enough clearance. (pictures contained



## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

I'm still new to fixing bikes. Noticed my shifting wasn't right in the smallest cog. You can see how scraped up the frame is where the chain hits while it's in the smallest cog. I included the other side of the spindle. You can see in the last picture how the smallest chain ring barely squeezes on.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the freehub without the cassette on. My first thought is that there is a spacer on the freehub (behind the cassette) and you might remove it.


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## SkidVicious (Apr 24, 2005)

yes, i'd think you need to get the axle spaced correctly...are your brakes rubbing on the non drive side ? what hub is it ?


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

veulta team sl wheels and vuelta hub.

I took the cassette off, no spacer. the largest 4 chainrings of the cassette come in one piece, so kind of impossible to misplace spacer there.

It's funny you mention the brake, I bought hte bike used. In order to get the brakes to fit proper, I added washers to between caliper and frame (moving brakes towards center axel). Maybe the washer just compensated for a wheel not assemble correctly in first place?


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## SkidVicious (Apr 24, 2005)

definitely the axle spacing, i'll hazard another guess and say your wheel is not centered in the rear triangle...check by the chainstay yoke, it will be slightly to the drive side...check for a schematic of the hub online, if not you can macguyver it and see if there are any spacers that can be moved over to the other side to give you an even amount of axle sticking out on both sides of the hub: if your up to taking it apart, otherwise its lbs time...


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

Looks like the entire wheel is offset to the right on the axle. As far as I can tell, the previous owner put it back together wrong and it looks like he stole the cone off a cup & cone bearing to use as a spacer. It also appears to be missing spacers and/or locknuts on the drive side. Bottom line is the hub rebuild & assembly was totally botched.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

To me it looks like a 130mm axle on a 135mm hub based off the images. Might want to pull the axle and take it down to a LBS comparing width of yours vs a standard 135mm. If they are the same perhaps try flipping the axle in the hub if possible seeing if you have more space between the cog and frame. Might also gain added thread engagement on the non drive side.

Best of luck in getting it fixed. What ever the issue is it does not look correct.


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## cockroach (Jun 12, 2009)

8 speed cassette on 7 speed hub?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

My experience with 7 speed freehubs has been that 8+ cassettes will go on, but the final cog is off the freehub, and the lockring doesn't have enough depth to thread on.

Being that no spacer is behind the cassette, I would imagine that the axle, as someone else suggested, is backwards (or missing spacers, etc).


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

freehub body is loose. axle looks loose too tighten em eup. should not be finger tight


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

this is a 9 speed bike.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

aerius said:


> Looks like the entire wheel is offset to the right on the axle. As far as I can tell, the previous owner put it back together wrong and it looks like he stole the cone off a cup & cone bearing to use as a spacer. It also appears to be missing spacers and/or locknuts on the drive side. Bottom line is the hub rebuild & assembly was totally botched.


I'd say this is likely. The other thing I've seen with hubs that have press on end caps is that they eventually press on past their intended point. Creating a problem like this. Might try to find an exploded view of the hub and take it apart to make sure everything is in the right spot. Or take it to a LBS and have them take a crack at it.



crux said:


> To me it looks like a 130mm axle on a 135mm hub based off the images. Might want to pull the axle and take it down to a LBS comparing width of yours vs a standard 135mm. If they are the same perhaps try flipping the axle in the hub if possible seeing if you have more space between the cog and frame. Might also gain added thread engagement on the non drive side.
> 
> Best of luck in getting it fixed. What ever the issue is it does not look correct.


Having the wrong length axle is pretty unlikely. You don't need to take it to a shop to check it either. Just measure it. Should be around 140 overall for a 135 spaced bike. Every bearing free hub axle I've ever taken apart can't be put in backwards. Not even close.


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