# RockShox Rebound Adjustment Knob Snapped OFF



## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Well I am in my basement tonight after riding, flip the bike over, get a allen wrench to adjust the rebound on my Domain 318 and it breaks completely off. Didn't even get half a turn and it just crumbles.... It wasn't tight or anything. It's now a big gaping hole that will spew oil if it's turned upright... I seem to have the worst of luck with bikes lately, it's really really frustrating. Where to go now guys?


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Chumba15 said:


> Where to go now guys?


To anything but a SRAM product!


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## ruppguts (Sep 7, 2007)

were you using a 5mm key to turn that thing? What happened to the actual red rebound adjuster? I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you were turning the shaft bolt, not the rebound adjuster. It looks like the shaft isn't press fit in the lower anymore. I don't know if any of this is making sense but you might want to download the technical manual from sram.com, attempt to take off the lowers, and see if you can tell what's going on. But that's not the rebound adjuster that has broken off.


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

ruppguts said:


> were you using a 5mm key to turn that thing? What happened to the actual red rebound adjuster? I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you were turning the shaft bolt, not the rebound adjuster. It looks like the shaft isn't press fit in the lower anymore. I don't know if any of this is making sense but you might want to download the technical manual from sram.com, attempt to take off the lowers, and see if you can tell what's going on. But that's not the rebound adjuster that has broken off.


The red knob fell off, however this is still the rebound adjustment knob that can be turned with an allen wrench...


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

The rebound adjuster knob is attatched to a 2.5mm allen key. I think that you used a 5mm allen key on the shaft bolt and not a 2.5mm allen key through the hole in the shaft bolt. That bolt head that broke off should have a hole in it for the allen key to fit in. The bolt is easily available at any shop.


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## ruppguts (Sep 7, 2007)

fixbikeguy said:


> The rebound adjuster knob is attatched to a 2.5mm allen key. I think that you used a 5mm allen key on the shaft bolt and not a 2.5mm allen key through the hole in the shaft bolt. That bolt head that broke off should have a hole in it for the allen key to fit in. The bolt is easily available at any shop.


Yep. The five millimeter under the adjuster knob _is not_ the rebound adjustment, it's the shaft bolt.


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## BIKESerFUN (Sep 5, 2007)

DHidiot said:


> To anything but a SRAM product!


Srams Fault? You need a nut punch.


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

Yeah give that a try and see what happens.

SRAM's fault for making a dumbass design.


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Yea as the others have said, its a 2.5mm hex that goes INSIDE the bolt to adjust the rebound, that black bolt is the shaft bolt. Look up the sram tech vid on youtube on how to remove your lowers and try and remove whats left of the bolt from the bottom of the shaft, and take the bolt to your LBS to see if they can get a replacement from sram, and hope you havent damaged the lowers or shaft threads, but i doubt it, its probably just the bolt that snapped


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Is this what I will need? And also some fork oil (what weight of oil will I need)? And should I order new seals for the fork too since I will be taking it apart?

Thanks


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## Jim311 (Feb 7, 2006)

You shouldn't have to take it apart to install that rebound knob and bolt. Although you may have lost some fluid when the bolt broke off.


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

Part of the bolt looks to have been broken off and is still in the shaft. So, it needs to be taken apart to get that out.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

You need 15w fork oil, get it from a moto shop. Look up the amount to use in SRAM downloads section. If the other half of that hollow bolt is stuck inside the damper shaft and you can't get it out, you will need a new damper shaft too. Only buy new seals when th eold ones start to leak.

DHidiot is showing how how appropriate his name is


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

davec113 said:


> You need 15w fork oil, get it from a moto shop. Look up the amount to use in SRAM downloads section. If the other half of that hollow bolt is stuck inside the damper shaft and you can't get it out, you will need a new damper shaft too. Only buy new seals when th eold ones start to leak.
> 
> DHidiot is showing how how appropriate his name is


Should I be able to get the rest of the bolt out of the damper shaft you think?


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## AL29er (Jan 14, 2004)

Chumba15 said:


> I seem to have the worst of luck with bikes lately, it's really really frustrating. Where to go now guys?


My luck seems to improve when I read manuals before picking up wrenches :skep:

I think in order to get the remains of that hollow bolt out you will need to drop the lowers and pull the rebound damper assembly out and see what you are up against. Hopefully there is enough of the bolt left to grab with vise grips.

SRAM's site has pdf documents detailing the whole disassembly and has posted videos on youtube. All of your questions are answered within :thumbsup:


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Chumba15 said:


> Should I be able to get the rest of the bolt out of the damper shaft you think?


Should be easy... just drop the lowers (take the bolt out of the other leg and pull them off). If it doesn't come out easy, take the shaft to the hardware store and find a bolt extractor that fits into the hollow part of the bolt.

This is asssuming the bolt didn't just fall out, which could have happened too I suppose...


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

so just do this and then I can get the rest of the bolt out that broke off inside?


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## Jim311 (Feb 7, 2006)

fixbikeguy said:


> Part of the bolt looks to have been broken off and is still in the shaft. So, it needs to be taken apart to get that out.


You can't take the lowers off until you remove that bolt.


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

I can't remove the lowers because I cant remove the bolt, it snapped and is still threaded in... He is what I see when I compress the fork, I can see the bolt but I cannot get it to poke out at all to grab a hold of it with vise grips.. What do I do? Am I just totally fukkkkkked?


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

I got a pair of needle nose pliers that are really tiny in there and am able to spin it around and around and around... It spins easy but won't pull out. There is a silver ring around the screw and it spins as well. IDK what to do


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## Jim311 (Feb 7, 2006)

Sounds like you've stripped the lowers.. that's bad.


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Jim311 said:


> Sounds like you've stripped the lowers.. that's bad.


bad as in I'm gonna have to buy a whole new fork?


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Jim311 said:


> Sounds like you've stripped the lowers.. that's bad.


Taking a close look at it I think the threads snapped off, I think thats the sliver ring around the bolt. It looks like the threads snapped off the lowers and is still around the remaining screw...


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Should I just call sram and see if I can get something worked out with them and send it off? I'm hoping to get it fixed for under 150 USD, Idk if that's going to be possible or not at the moment


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

You can still pull the lowers. That bolt you broke threads into the rebound assembly, which is inside the lowers. The head is what keeps the fork together on that side, and it's gone.... You have to pull the bolt on the other leg, then the lowers should come off. Read the manual!


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Scotth72 said:


> You can still pull the lowers. That bolt you broke threads into the rebound assembly, which is inside the lowers. The head is what keeps the fork together on that side, and it's gone.... You have to pull the bolt on the other leg, then the lowers should come off. Read the manual!


I did, I did exactly as the manual says and the lowers won't come off. I unscrewed it almost all of the way out, gave it a little tap with a small rubber hammer and it still sticks. It seems to be fine coming off on the opposing side, but the side where there rebound is doesn't wanna budge


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## Scotth72 (Mar 15, 2004)

When the bolt broke off, it might have flared inside the lower leg. You might try gently tapping the bolt to get it out. Just don't flare the bolt any more.


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

Scotth72 said:


> When the bolt broke off, it might have flared inside the lower leg.  You might try gently tapping the bolt to get it out. Just don't flare the bolt any more.


It wont come off. I removed the spring to make it easier to compress, I can see the screw when it's fully compressed. I can grab the screw with pliers and keep it visible as I try and pull the lowers down. They just won't come off. I dont know what to do


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

maybe my best bet is to try and go thru sram


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

I don't understand whats wrong. Both sides are clearly disengaged, it just won't come off. It stops at normal full extension and wont go past that...


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

It's gotta come off one way or another.... but if you have warranty, stop here and get it to the lbs. If not, hit it harder. You might try taking a punch and hammering on the remaining part of the broken bolt too. The lowers are magnesium, which is just a little stronger than swiss cheese, so try to be careful...

Next time, don't leave the red adjuster in the bolt, take it out and toss it in the tool box. I wouldn't be surprised if a rock hit it and broke the bolt off.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The spring does not need to be removed. For the spring side, you need to thread the bolt in a few threads and give it a good smack to unseat the spring base from the lowers. The same needs to be done for the rebound side, you'll probably need to use a punch.

The lowers are not threaded.

Semi-bath oil can use any oil... motor oil works fine.

New seals are not needed.

YDI for not using common sense.

If you can't figure out how to adjust the rebound or remove a fork... I really don't think you should be trying to rebuild a fork.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

PLEASE read the service manual. It is not that difficult. And be sure to note the required oil levels for reassembly. DO NOT just fill the lowers all the way up with oil.

This is in no way RockShox's fault.


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## ruppguts (Sep 7, 2007)

Sounds like your "little taps" on the shaft bolts haven't loosened them from their press fit into the lowers. Since the bolts are out, the only thing that can be keeping the lowers from pulling off is the press fit. But it also sounds like it may well be time to turn this over to someone who knows what they're doing. Sorry...


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

XSL_WiLL said:


> The spring does not need to be removed..


This I understand, if you read, the only reason i removed the spring was in order to try and get the screw out of the lowers... I had to compress it all the way in order to reach the screw. To make it easier I did that.


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## BIKESerFUN (Sep 5, 2007)

DHidiot said:


> Yeah give that a try and see what happens.
> 
> SRAM's fault for making a dumbass design.


I just figured you'd punch YOURSELF in the nuts. People like you enjoy stuff like that,right?


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

Take it to a shop. Why do people try to fix things that they don't know how to and then get mad and blame the company that makes it when they break it? Take it to a shop before you completely screw it up.


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## Chumba15 (Jul 3, 2009)

fixbikeguy said:


> Take it to a shop. Why do people try to fix things that they don't know how to and then get mad and blame the company that makes it when they break it? Take it to a shop before you completely screw it up.


I'm not blaming anything on the company????


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## ECUMTB (Feb 25, 2009)

Chumba15 said:


> I'm not blaming anything on the company????


u mad brah????


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## fixbikeguy (Aug 28, 2008)

Chumba15 said:


> I'm not blaming anything on the company????


Sorry dude, it sounded like you were mad that it broke. It broke because it got overtightned by you. These shaft bolts have a low torque to them. If you tighten them too much they will break. Sorry again.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Chumba15 said:


> This I understand, if you read, the only reason i removed the spring was in order to try and get the screw out of the lowers... I had to compress it all the way in order to reach the screw. To make it easier I did that.


If you have to compress it to reach it then that means it has already come unseated from the lowers... no further removal is necessary.


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## the forge.nz (Jan 29, 2009)

Chumba15 said:


> Well I am in my basement tonight after riding, flip the bike over, get a allen wrench to adjust the rebound on my Domain 318 and it breaks completely off. Didn't even get half a turn and it just crumbles.... It wasn't tight or anything. It's now a big gaping hole that will spew oil if it's turned upright... I seem to have the worst of luck with bikes lately, it's really really frustrating. Where to go now guys?


Hey guys found this post after my problem as well. The red bolt on my Rock Shock Domains jjust fell off at some point in the past , I have no idea how , just discivered it yesterday , and the cycle shop is all booked up till the 25 arrrrgggg


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## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

Dude


You sound ****ing clueless

Take it to a local shop so you don't **** anything up for your own sake


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## 4JawChuck (Dec 1, 2008)

Whoops!

DOH!


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

the forge.nz said:


> Hey guys found this post after my problem as well. The red bolt on my Rock Shock Domains jjust fell off at some point in the past , I have no idea how , just discivered it yesterday , and the cycle shop is all booked up till the 25 arrrrgggg


If all you have lost is the red bit that fits on the black shaft bolt, then no biggie.

You can _still adjust rebound _with a 2.5mm allen to get the bits you need to turn inside the black lower bolt. No biggie. You can order a spare rebound knob from many, many online shops. It's a cheap and easy fix.

If you've actually lost or broken the whole foot nut, then the advice given to the OP of this thread stands.


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