# QR frame to thru axles



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

I have a 2013 Giant Revel bicycle that uses QR axles. I was researching and I could convert this to a thru axle however I went on ebay to try to look for a wheelset even just for the rear with a microspline hub and it shows so many numbers like 15x100 and 12x142 thru axle and I can not understand what I need? please help


----------



## HuckingKiwi (Sep 20, 2021)

It is not possible to convert a QR frame to thru axles without making serious modifications to the dropouts. It is possible to put a thru axle on the front but you need to buy a fork that is made for thru axles. 

15x100 means that its a 15mm thru axle front hub with 100mm spacing. 
12x142 means that its a 12mm thru axle rear hub with 142mm spacing.

Here is an image of how the measurements work.


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

Can I buy a thru axle wheel and have a QR adapter to fit my QR frame?


----------



## Reaperactual (Apr 20, 2020)

Agree with the above, forget the seriously involved hassle of trying to convert your dropouts with whatever method you've found.

Edit: Yes! If you actually just want a new upgraded wheel/hub then it's doeable.

A lot of decent brand, (Hope, DT Swiss, etc.) non Boost 12×142 thru axle hubs are convertible into quick release *using their own brand specific* end caps.

The same with the front, non Boost 100×15 thru axles are also convertible to quick release, with an end cap conversion kit.


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

Hi what do you think is a better option seems hard to find the 12 x 142 wheels with the microspline. Should I buy the Novatec 12 speed hub and have those mounted on my existing wheel? do I need to change the spokes since I am at it?


----------



## Reaperactual (Apr 20, 2020)

As far as I know Novatec are pretty decent mid range hubs. I doubt it's a good idea to reuse spokes but with different spoke flange diameters it's likely you'll need a full set of the correct length spokes to fit a new hub on your current (26"?) rim.

I've never built a wheel myself and have just bought pre built wheelsets. A wheelset could work out a bit cheaper if you consider the cost of spokes and paying someone to build wheels for you.

My current wheels are (27.5") Hope Fortus 30 with Pro 4 hubs so that's the example I'm going off.

Hopes etc. are the type of hub you're looking for, conversion wise. They also allow all their own alternate freehubs to be retrofitted/fitted, including Microspline.

Note: You don't necessarily need a Microspline to go to 12speed with alternative HG cassettes being an option.

It's much the same kind of convertibility and 'futureproofing' that other quality brands have which is worth paying a bit more for.


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

Got it and thank you for your patience I am from Guam and probably not even the LBS has any idea of these things. Sorry my wife's bike has a 29" wheel. I would like to also replace the spokes and the rim to tubeless ready one. Buying a wheel set is less expensive but finding one for sale with the specs I need is challenging and asking them to ship to Guam adds to the anxiety.


----------



## Reaperactual (Apr 20, 2020)

thegolffather said:


> Got it and thank you for your patience I am from Guam and probably not even the LBS has any idea of these things. Sorry my wife's bike has a 29" wheel. I would like to also replace the spokes and the rim to tubeless ready one. Buying a wheel set is less expensive but finding one for sale with the specs I need is challenging and asking them to ship to Guam adds to the anxiety.


Hey no worries, happy to try and help a little. 😎

I didn't recognise the Guam flag and now I can see the problems you might face getting what you need. 🤔


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

I have to learn everything and try to explain this to the techs at the LBS. I could buy a newer bike but my 2 sons learned to ride a bicycle on this bike. Sentimental value is priceless


----------



## Reaperactual (Apr 20, 2020)

I agree, sometimes it's not about money. Sentimental value is worth more.

There are good Internet resources that are worth looking for. Maybe it could help to show your bike techs.


----------



## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

I easily converted my Hope hub to a bolt on axle.


----------



## Amt0571 (May 22, 2014)

thegolffather said:


> I have a 2013 Giant Revel bicycle that uses QR axles. I was researching and I could convert this to a thru axle however I went on ebay to try to look for a wheelset even just for the rear with a microspline hub and it shows so many numbers like 15x100 and 12x142 thru axle and I can not understand what I need? please help


The question is: why? what improvement are you expecting from this?


----------



## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

If your goal is to go tubeless, you can make your existing rim tubeless. Look on YouTube for ghetto tubeless.
Here's one.- 


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ghetto+tubeless+mtb


----------



## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

there's not enough benefit to a thru axle to make it worth the risk and cost of trying to modify your frame. if you want to upgrade your wheels, there are still plenty of options on the market with a 135x10 axle. but a nicer skewer like DT Swiss or a Shimano XT on there if that helps.


----------



## chiefsilverback (Dec 20, 2019)

I just looked at the specs for that bike and assuming it's the Revel 1 it's a 26" wheel with 3x8 drivetrain that uses a bolted crankset. 

You mentioned microspline so I'm assuming you want to do a 1x conversion?

I converted a 2006 era 26" Cannondale F5 to 1x and tubeless using the original wheel set. I did it just before Microshift released the Advent X so I went with XT 11 speed, a Sunrise 11-50 cassette, and the Wolftooth Components Goat Link, but if I were to do it again today I'd just go with Advent X.

For the tubeless conversion I just cleaned the rims really well and used several wraps of MucOff tape. I put a WTB Vigilante 2.3" on the front and Velociraptor 2.1" on the rear because those are the max sizes I could fit in my frame and fork. Neither my rims or tires are "tubeless ready" but they've held air for 2 years now!

I'd recommend you try something similar before investing in new wheels and also check what clearances you have on the frame and fork because that will determine what tire options you have.


----------



## Amt0571 (May 22, 2014)

mack_turtle said:


> there's not enough benefit to a thru axle to make it worth the risk and cost of trying to modify your frame. if you want to upgrade your wheels, there are still plenty of options on the market with a 135x10 axle. but a nicer skewer like DT Swiss or a Shimano XT on there if that helps.


This. On my old 26 I replaced the fork and went from QR to thru axle. I couldn't feel any difference.


----------



## AKamp (Jan 26, 2004)

I honestly don’t like the DT skewers. There is no mechanical advantage in them and they simply function as a large wing nut. I haven’t seen actual numbers but I would be surprised if they offer the same mechanical advantage as a quality internal cam quick release like older campagnolo or Shimano. There are no through axle conversions to move from a 135-142 frame unless they have modular/bolt on dropouts like Paragon Machine works or some sort of knock off and although I haven’t looked your bike up I would bet money it doesn’t. When someone here said there are through axle conversions for all hubs that is simply not true either. If you have a threaded axle in your hub you could most likely convert to a bolt on axle like a BMX or a Cruiser bike but there are no advantages to that over a quality QR other then theft prevention. You will also run into the issue of needing a 15mm wrench to remove the wheel out on the trail. I do not see any reason to do that. Just get a Shimano QR. 

There are larger cassettes available that fit on a hyperglide cassette body, I would go that route. 
if you really want my to move to microspline white industries makes nice 135 hubs. But then you are talking about sinking 2k into a $300 bike.


----------



## looks easy from here (Apr 16, 2019)

Are you sure your bike has 142mm rear spacing? It won't do you any good to order a 142mm hub if your bike's only 135mm.


----------



## Hrodulf (12 mo ago)

Just order a boost thru axle wheelset, including from thru axle to QR adapters. Super easy installation. DT Swiss has nice adapter solutions for this.

One of my bikes also came with QR, the ones with thru axle. I do not experience any difference at all (the myth is that through axle is stiffer, which I believe btw, though a mortal like me does not notice this).


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

2013 Giant Revel 29er 1 – Specs, Comparisons, Reviews – 99 Spokes


A 29″ aluminum frame hardtail crosscountry bike with mid-range components and mechanical disc brakes.




99spokes.com





I was originally thinking of just using the same wheel and 11 speed cassette but I have this extra Deore XT parts from my 2021 Giant XTC Advanced SL1 like a 1x12 cassette, narrow chain, Deore Crankset. It would be hard to sell these parts locally on Guam so maybe use them to upgrade the Revel if possible. The wheels are also heavy maybe just trying to get the most value... I truly appreciate all the wealth of information being shared


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

looks easy from here said:


> Are you sure your bike has 142mm rear spacing? It won't do you any good to order a 142mm hub if your bike's only 135mm.


I got to measure this and is it inside to inside of the frame?


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

chiefsilverback said:


> I just looked at the specs for that bike and assuming it's the Revel 1 it's a 26" wheel with 3x8 drivetrain that uses a bolted crankset.
> 
> You mentioned microspline so I'm assuming you want to do a 1x conversion?
> 
> ...


It is a 2013 Giant revel 29er in a small. Yes I was planning to do a 1x conversion. I like that tubeless conversion idea. I would like to keep the 29 x 2.1 tire size


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

Amt0571 said:


> The question is: why? what improvement are you expecting from this?


Better gearing using extra parts from my 2021 Giant XTC Advanced SL1 as much as I can because I just got my wife into cycling and I feel bad for her with the 8 speed gearing and super heavy bike.


----------



## AKamp (Jan 26, 2004)

Hrodulf said:


> Just order a boost thru axle wheelset, including from thru axle to QR adapters. Super easy installation. DT Swiss has nice adapter solutions for this.
> 
> One of my bikes also came with QR, the ones with thru axle. I do not experience any difference at all (the myth is that through axle is stiffer, which I believe btw, though a mortal like me does not notice this).


This is only kinda true and definitely not with boost. Boost is 148 rear hub spacing and although it existed back then I would highly doubt the bike listed is boost. If you order a boost wheel set even with adaptors nothing will line up, including the disk spacing. You can purchase a 142/100 through axle wheel set and get the correct adapters to 135. Front wheel you would have several options for adapters from endcaps to slide in axles that you can pick up on eBay for 10 bucks. Rear isn't quite as easy, you would need the correct endcaps for the hub. You can't change your frame to a through axle, it ain't going to happen so I would drop that idea. If you wan't to go 12spd get a Sram NX cassette and throw it on your current wheel. You would still need the correct shifter, derailleur and chain but definitely give up on Boost


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

AKamp said:


> This is only kinda true and definitely not with boost. Boost is 148 rear hub spacing and although it existed back then I would highly doubt the bike listed is boost. If you order a boost wheel set even with adaptors nothing will line up, including the disk spacing. You can purchase a 142/100 through axle wheel set and get the correct adapters to 135. Front wheel you would have several options for adapters from endcaps to slide in axles that you can pick up on eBay for 10 bucks. Rear isn't quite as easy, you would need the correct endcaps for the hub. You can't change your frame to a through axle, it ain't going to happen so I would drop that idea. If you wan't to go 12spd get a Sram NX cassette and throw it on your current wheel. You would still need the correct shifter, derailleur and chain but definitely give up on Boost


I understand that now and I researched it has the Formula DC32 hub which has a QR axle of 135 rear and 100 front. I am already preparing to replace all the associated drivetrain parts. I am trying to figure out between these two options:

*Option 1*
1. Buy a new 1 x12 or 1 x11 cassette and keep the existing wheel. (weighs a ton )
2. Buy a new 32t chainring and keep existing Suntour crankset. Convert 3 ring to single ring 104 bolt pattern.
3. Buy a new shifter
4. Buy a new derailleur
5. Buy a new chain

OR

*Option 2*
1. Buy a rear hub (microspline, 6 bolt) and have it installed (labor)to the existing wheel. I might need to buy new spokes or buy a new wheel set.
2. Use extra 1x12 Deore XT cassette (removed from XTC)
3. Buy a new Deore XT bottom bracket
4. Buy a new SLX crankset.
5. Use extra Deore XT Chainring (removed from XTC)
6. Buy a rear derailleur. 
7. Use extra KMC X12 chain (removed from XTC)
8. Buy a new shifter

If cost were not an issue which would you think is better value keeping in mind that I could upgrade my 2021 Giant XTC advanced SL1 which has Deore XT components (derailleur, crankset, shifter, brakes and even the fork) and install them into the 2013 Giant Revel down the road.

Option 1 and Option 2 price difference is not much maybe $50 max but I get a better bike with Option 2 and will take sometime.

Open to input and maybe other ideas of which is best value...


----------



## Reaperactual (Apr 20, 2020)

chiefsilverback said:


> I just looked at the specs for that bike and assuming it's the Revel 1 it's a 26" wheel with 3x8 drivetrain that uses a bolted crankset.
> 
> You mentioned microspline so I'm assuming you want to do a 1x conversion?
> 
> ...


If your wheels are in good working order then keep them.

If it's just about going tubeless and converting to 1x what @chiefsilverback mentioned is the best, cheapest and most simple option.

+1 for the 'ghetto' tubeless set up and the Advent X groupset, all of which you could easily fit/do yourself with very little additional costs:-






ADVENT X | microSHIFT







www.microshift.com


----------



## Amt0571 (May 22, 2014)

thegolffather said:


> Better gearing using extra parts from my 2021 Giant XTC Advanced SL1 as much as I can because I just got my wife into cycling and I feel bad for her with the 8 speed gearing and super heavy bike.


Most thru axle wheels can be used on QR with adapters, provided the hub OLD (spacing) is the same as the frame/fork OLD.


----------



## chiefsilverback (Dec 20, 2019)

thegolffather said:


> Open to input and maybe other ideas of which is best value...


Converting to 1x won't necessarily give you any more range over the current 3x8 and actually you might have more range today depending on the cassette on the Revel.

My rationale for converting my old Cannondale were to get a rear mech with a clutch, and get rid of the left shifter to make room for a dropper lever. I also upgraded the fork and brakes which are two components you haven't mentioned. The reality is I could have bought a completely new bike with modern geo for what it cost to do all the upgrades, admittedly with lower spec components, but it was a fun project.

I used the bike 'properly' for a season, and then my wife got into riding on it last year and I just got her a full squish and will strip some of the parts off the Cannondale to upgrade other bikes e.g. her new bike has poorly reviewed Tektro Orion brakes which I'll swap for the Shimano Deore M6100s I put on the Cannondale, and my oldest son wants the 11 speed XT to replace his 10 speed Deore.

You're starting with a 29er so you have a lot of tire options to go tubeless that could also shave a bit of weight off, get her out riding on it and if she likes it get her onto a 'proper' bike ASAP.


----------



## 93M500 (Nov 10, 2021)

Way too much talk and options here. Keep your current sentimental bike AND buy a new modern frame and start building new with basic affordable components. You'll learn a lot and enjoy the build. Stop measuring and converting and scratching your head. (but it's good folks are reaching out and trying to help though)


----------



## HuckingKiwi (Sep 20, 2021)

93M500 said:


> Way too much talk and options here. Keep your current sentimental bike AND buy a new modern frame and start building new with basic affordable components. You'll learn a lot and enjoy the build. Stop measuring and converting and scratching your head. (but it's good folks are reaching out and trying to help though)


Completely agree with you. I have dealt with many customers that were in a similar position as OP. They would bring entry level xc bikes into the shop asking for upgrades that required a lot of parts to be replaced (eg: going from 3x7 to 1x11). When calling the customer with the estimate I always tried to convince them not to do those upgrades and put the money towards a new bike. Almost all the customers that listened to my advice came back to the shop a month later to thank me.


----------



## thegolffather (Mar 12, 2021)

HuckingKiwi said:


> Completely agree with you. I have dealt with many customers that were in a similar position as OP. They would bring entry level xc bikes into the shop asking for upgrades that required a lot of parts to be replaced (eg: going from 3x7 to 1x11). When calling the customer with the estimate I always tried to convince them not to do those upgrades and put the money towards a new bike. Almost all the customers that listened to my advice came back to the shop a month later to thank me.


I have not pulled the trigger yet, a nice new bike will at least cost 2K and up and this price would only bring same aluminum frame and still components that are entry level just like the Revel, coil spring fork, Deore drivetrain, the only difference is that a new bike would be easier to upgrade later because of the newer standards like, tapered head tube, boost axles, press in bottom bracket, and larger tires. But still they got entry level components from the stem, handle bar, seatpost, seat etc. 

My 2021 Giant XTC Advanced SL1 was not the top of the line bike but it still cost a couple of thousands. Half the price if I chose the XTR and FOX 32 spec'd one.


----------



## 93M500 (Nov 10, 2021)

thegolffather said:


> I have not pulled the trigger yet, a nice new bike will at least cost 2K and up and this price would only bring same aluminum frame and still components that are entry level just like the Revel, coil spring fork, Deore drivetrain, the only difference is that a new bike would be easier to upgrade later because of the newer standards like, tapered head tube, boost axles, press in bottom bracket, and larger tires. But still they got entry level components from the stem, handle bar, seatpost, seat etc.
> 
> My 2021 Giant XTC Advanced SL1 was not the top of the line bike but it still cost a couple of thousands. Half the price if I chose the XTR and FOX 32 spec'd one.


Unless your racing or riding professionally, most will not know the difference between an entry level Shimano Deore or an XTR. A mtb from walmart will shift fast and smooth up and down the cassette. A mountain bike's integrity is in the frame.


----------

