# 2005 Giant Yukon



## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

I've been watching Craigslist like a hawk, and a 2005 Giant Yukon in my size just showed up. They are asking $300 for the bike, plus a 2-bike bike rack for the car. I don't really need the bike rack, would $250 be a reasonable offer for the bike alone?


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## lovetranquillity (Apr 13, 2010)

I think 250 seems reasonable. 300 is a little bit high for a 5 year old bike that retails new in the upper 400s. You should offer 225 and see if they will accept the offer.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks...I'm new to all this and looking for a first bike.


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## lovetranquillity (Apr 13, 2010)

If this will be your first bike it should be just fine but if you really get into riding you will be spending lots of money on bikes with better components for different purposes. The giant yukon seems pretty decent component wise except for the fork and should be able to handle regular riding.
Just try to bike out and see if you like it and you feel comfortable on it. If you decide to purchase it bring it to your local bike shop to have it checked out and make sure everything is working properly and they could probably help you adjust the bike to fit you better.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks. They went down to $250. Hopefully I'll be able to meet them to check it out Tuesday or Wednesday.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/bik/2641284612.html here is what I'll be getting for $250, minus the bike rack.


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## lovetranquillity (Apr 13, 2010)

It is hard to tell exactly what the "bells and whistles" are, the lights and date bottle holders I assume. From the pictures it is hard to tell what is on the bike, it looks pretty much stock.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

I'm assuming it's all stock. I think by bells and whistles they were referring to the flat fix kit, air pump, and small stuff like that.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Today I've come across a 2010 specialized hardrock for about the same price as the 2010 Yukon. From what little I've educated myself, it seems the Yukon has better components, but would I be better to buy the newer Hardrock?


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## lovetranquillity (Apr 13, 2010)

If they are around the same price and the hard rock is newer I would go with the hard rock


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Am I right in thinking that the Yukon has slightly better components tho? I plan on checking them both out before I make a decision.


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*There are 4 different 26" Hardrock models for 2010*



jeder212 said:


> Today I've come across a 2010 specialized hardrock for about the same price as the 2010 Yukon. From what little I've educated myself, it seems the Yukon has better components, but would I be better to buy the newer Hardrock?


Unless it's the Harrdock Sport Disc, buy the Yukon, provided it's in decent mechanical shape.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

That was along the lines I was thinking. The Hardrock doesn't have disc brakes. In pictures, both bikes appear in good shape. I'm meeting the guy with the Yukon Wednesday evening. I'm about to search around for this info, but what are some things I should be looking for when checking out used bikes?


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## Call_me_Clyde (Oct 27, 2004)

*Things to look for*



jeder212 said:


> I'm meeting the guy with the Yukon Wednesday evening. I'm about to search around for this info, but what are some things I should be looking for when checking out used bikes?


Look at the overall condition first. Does it look like it was well cared for from a distance.... cosmetics can say a lot. Look for dings on the frame. Small nicks are inevitable. Anything large enough that your thumbprint fits in it, then that might be problematic. Check all of the places it's welded. Any cracks, regardless how small, walk away. Check the drivetrain to see if it has a lot of gunk built up, or other signs it wasn't maintained.

Ride the bike, and see if : 1) it feels like it fits. 2) the gears shift easily. 3) the brakes actually work 4) The fork compresses and rebounds

Beyond this, as an inexperienced cyclist, there's not a whole lot to look for.

Let us know how you make out.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Call_me_Clyde said:


> Look at the overall condition first. Does it look like it was well cared for from a distance.... cosmetics can say a lot. Look for dings on the frame. Small nicks are inevitable. Anything large enough that your thumbprint fits in it, then that might be problematic. Check all of the places it's welded. Any cracks, regardless how small, walk away. Check the drivetrain to see if it has a lot of gunk built up, or other signs it wasn't maintained.
> 
> Ride the bike, and see if : 1) it feels like it fits. 2) the gears shift easily. 3) the brakes actually work 4) The fork compresses and rebounds
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the info. Unless I just don't like what I see with the Giant Yukon, I think that's what I'll get.


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## Gildnerb (Sep 23, 2011)

I just bought a 05 yukon for $100 all it needs is a rear casette. Good luck with yours!


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

So I just got mine tonight. The bike looks like it is in pretty good shape. The only issue I found was something is up with the front derailleur. I don't know if it needs adjusted or replaced yet. Because of this, I was able to get the price lowered. 

I didn't have enough time to play with it, had a meeting to get to. I'd like to give the bike a tune-up myself, and hope to get the front derailleur working properly. If I can't figure it out, then it'll go to the LBS for a proper tune-up. I hope this makes for a good first bike.


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## PnkCrnk (Nov 25, 2010)

I find the front derailleur to be the most frustrating part to adjust.  Congrats with your new bike. :thumbsup:


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

PnkCrnk said:


> I find the front derailleur to be the most frustrating part to adjust.  Congrats with your new bike. :thumbsup:


Obviously I do too.

While at work today, I decided to clean and lube all I could. I removed, and soaked the chain in degreaser. I then pulled the rear derailleur off, cleaned and lubed it. Using a toothbrush, I cleaned the rear cassette, the chainrings and the font derailleur. Then lubed the front derailleur, and all my cables. Finished cleaning chain, dried, lubed, and replaced. I tuned the rear derailleur first. I got it shifting smoother than it was when I first got the bike. I'm very happy with it.

Next it was time to attempt to get the front derailleur working properly. I started by trying to set the low limit. To get the bike into low gear, I had to physically push it with my finger to get it to slide over onto the small chainring. After adjusting the cable so it wasn't super tight like it was originally, I adjusted the low limit. Then put the bike in high gear and adjusted the high limit. Tried going through the gears. The bike will shift great from the middle to the large chainring and back again. Going from the middle chainring to the small chainring is a different story. Sometimes, after a few rotations it will go, but most of the time, it will just stay on the middle chainring. I've adjusted the low limit every which way and couldn't get it any better. The one thing that I think it could be is the height of the cage off of the chainring. I think it's a little to high, but can not seem to find an adjustment for it. Would the height affect the shifting from the middle to low chainrings?

Any other ideas?


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Cable might be too tight.
Is the chain on the big sprocket at the back when you try to shift from the middle to the small on the front ?

9 - Front Derailleur Adjustment - YouTube


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## PnkCrnk (Nov 25, 2010)

jeder212 said:


> Obviously I do too.
> 
> While at work today, I decided to clean and lube all I could. I removed, and soaked the chain in degreaser. I then pulled the rear derailleur off, cleaned and lubed it. Using a toothbrush, I cleaned the rear cassette, the chainrings and the font derailleur. Then lubed the front derailleur, and all my cables. Finished cleaning chain, dried, lubed, and replaced. I tuned the rear derailleur first. I got it shifting smoother than it was when I first got the bike. I'm very happy with it.
> 
> ...


The height does affect the operation of the derailleur so check that it is set properly. Is your derailleur a Shimano? Because you can go to Shimano's techsite (Shimano) and find the technical manual for it. Besides the low and hight limits, you also have to set the intermediate (middle ring) setting for your derailleur. This should be in the manual for your derailleur.


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

Yesterday I completely removed the derailleur and super cleaned and lubed it. After putting it all back together, it shifts almost perfectly. Sometimes it's quick, sometimes there is a slight hesitation. 

I couldn't figure out a way to adjust the height yet. It's and E type derailleur, so I'm not sure there is an height adjustment on it.


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

jeder212 said:


> I couldn't figure out a way to adjust the height yet. It's and E type derailleur, so I'm not sure there is an height adjustment on it.


What brand & model is it ?


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## jeder212 (Oct 1, 2011)

cobba said:


> What brand & model is it ?


It's a Shimano FD-M330.


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## PnkCrnk (Nov 25, 2010)

I'm not sure about the height adjustment for E-type derailleurs, maybe it can't be adjusted up or down. Here's the link to your derailleur's installation and adjustment manual: FD-M330.

Check that your cables are moving smoothly and not snagging. Also check that the bottom bracket was not replaced with one that has the wrong specs, and that the right number and widths of spacers, if any, are there.


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## Gildnerb (Sep 23, 2011)

I have the same bike and front deraillur. When the chain is on the middle chain ring, a few of the teeth on the large chain ring hit the front deraillur. I can't adjust the height of it so is there anything else I can do?


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