# Absolute Black Oval Chainring



## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Sweet!

http://absoluteblack.cc/oval-104bcd-chainring.html

Curious to try the 34 when it comes out in November.


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

My 32T is already on order. Supposedly shipping this week or next. Very excited as I like the climbing of the 30T, but want more speed. This should be spot on.


----------



## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

In for a 32.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

few more that are offering the "bio-pace" rings

Rotor Bike Components :: Products

Osymetric USA


----------



## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

006_007 said:


> few more that are offering the "bio-pace" rings...


Yeah, but not in narrow-wide.


----------



## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

And not 104 BCD or GXP compatible.


----------



## retswen (May 13, 2014)

Was about to buy one, and then saw that it was $16.90 to ship. Ouch!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

hey guys. If you are interested about reading more in details why this ring is NOT biopace and what benefits are then I am taking active part in SS forum thread on this:

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/...antage-singlespeed-932469-6.html#post11468770

Have a read if you are interested. Worth!

Shipping- 16.9$ is actually a steal We ship from UK and 16.9$ for tracked parcel is actually less than Royal mail charge + envelope +stickers and fuel to the post. It costs me 19...

My ring itself is 50% cheaper than Rotor one so this should not put you off. On top of that to use Rotor you need to buy 70$ spider.I charge for my chainrnig less than Rotor for a spider! So compare 200$ Rotor solution to my 66$ chainrnig. Suddenly postage is a wash


----------



## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

Hi marcin..if I order next week wouuld you be able to ship it before the end of october?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Most likely yes. This is our goal to fill all the backorders with this new ring.

M


----------



## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

thanks Marcin!


----------



## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

I ordered over 3 weeks ago... Still waiting on my ring.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

irishpitbull said:


> I ordered over 3 weeks ago... Still waiting on my ring.


We are having them with anodizer now, so just few more days and we will cover all of the older orders. We work really hard to meet demand.


----------



## MudBike (Oct 22, 2005)

Bump. Anyone receive one of these yet? Feedback please.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

we have sent a lot this week to many corners of the world, so this coming week most of you should have them.

Marcin


----------



## robbbby (Oct 1, 2006)

Any idea if/when you will be making oval rings for xx1 short spindle pf30/bb30 cranks?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

they will be made. We just need a bit of time. Right now I can't make everything at once


----------



## mr_chrome (Jan 17, 2005)

- it took a while for the one I ordered this spring (about 3-4 weeks) but it was worth the wait........have patience, folks........


----------



## Biased Opinion (May 17, 2014)

What i need is one of these in black that maxes out at a 42t, not sure what the min would be on that.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Does anyone know how these go with a Shimano or Sram clutch rear mech?


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

xcbarny said:


> Does anyone know how these go with a Shimano or Sram clutch rear mech?


Works fine with the two X9 Type 2's that I've tried mine with


----------



## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

xcbarny said:


> Does anyone know how these go with a Shimano or Sram clutch rear mech?


What does a chain ring have to do with a rear derailleur?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

xcbarny said:


> Does anyone know how these go with a Shimano or Sram clutch rear mech?


just scroll down on our page and you will see a video showing that rear cage does not move at all. We sell a lot of these rings to singlespeeders as chain does not grow or shorten while pedaling. I know it's difficult to imagine it but it works that way.

OVAL 104BCD chainring
scroll down the page in the link and you will see.


----------



## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

I have been considered a round 30T instead of the 32T I have for that extra low gear. Would the oval 32T actually do the same? Will it make climbing easier compared to the 30T? What about the highest gear, how will it affect top speed? 

Thanks for any input!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

oval 32t is easier than round 32T.

oval 32T will be similar to ride something between 30/32T on round. Oval 32T will not be easier than round 30T if that's what you are asking.


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

tehan said:


> oval 32T will be similar to ride something between 30/32T on round.


So that something between 30/32 would be a 31?


----------



## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

From experience, I've found that it climbs as gear just a touch taller than a 30T round (as that's what I previously ran on my AM bike).

I haven't tried a 32T round.


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Also looking forward to the short spindle BB30 version


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

006_007 said:


> So that something between 30/32 would be a 31?


I wrote it that way as It really depends on your personal perception. Some people will tell that it rides like 30T and some will write it's just a bit harder than 30T, but surely easier than 32T. 
On average, yes treat it like 31T to calculate gears for eg.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

hokiebrett said:


> From experience, I've found that it climbs as gear just a touch taller than a 30T round (as that's what I previously ran on my AM bike).
> 
> I haven't tried a 32T round.


First ride with oval today and it does feel between 32 and 30, and allows me to ride a gear lower.

Go Hokies! Beat BC!


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Marcin,

Wish I had seen this thread a couple of days ago! Just ordered a Rotor 30T QX1 and GXP spider from Bike24 in Germany. It hasn't shipped yet, so have tried to cancel my order with them. Put in an order with you and on the waiting list for the direct mount GXP 32. For those wondering, Marcin's solution is a whole lot cheaper than the Rotor setup. Should also be lighter than the stock setup since it's spider less.

How is chain retention compared to the stock SRAM chainring? I have had very good luck with it since I bought the bike in April.

Also, what position would the Rotor ring be in to compare to your ovality? Standing climbing or seated position?


----------



## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

I am commenting so I can hear more, very interested in this chain ring.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

34T rings now available! But in limited qty for now, so don't think too long...

34T is cheaper than 32T as it is flat with no integrated nuts into chainring. So it can be used on inside or outside position on 3X crank (inside is recommended).
OVAL 104BCD chainring


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

tadmcmichael said:


> How is chain retention compared to the stock SRAM chainring? I have had very good luck with it since I bought the bike in April.
> 
> Also, what position would the Rotor ring be in to compare to your ovality? Standing climbing or seated position?


My ring is already known to outlast original XX1 by 3-4 times in durability and have same retention capabilities. We use better materials and more complex shape to achieve that.

Our ring is similar in shape and position as Rotor "starting" position. Which in most cases is No 3 if I remember correctly.

To be fair this is most optimal position for 99% of people out there. Only pro riders who spend countless hours on ovals can tell the difference if they rotate the oval by a bit. So no point of creating adjustability for something you will not benefit from at all. Even Rotor itself admits in their patent application, that only very few people will need adjustability. Most of you would only get confused. So we wanted to keep things simple and clear for everyone. This is the best position to ride with, so no point of fiddling with it


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. I was able to get my Bike24 order cancelled so I will anxiously await delivery of the 32 tooth spider less oval GXP. Website said it would be shipping in about a week?


----------



## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

Looks great, just placed my order for the 34tooth. Looking forward to trying it out.

It shows available, any idea exactly when it will ship?

Thank you,

Matt


----------



## frank daleview (Jan 23, 2004)

So stoked to see these rings are available! They look beautiful too! I wish I had known sooner, I have a race this saturday. I'm in for 2-3 32t rings.


----------



## GnarBrahWyo (Jun 4, 2012)

Will a 30t ever be produced for us that ride heavy fat bikes in snow? Also, how does these rings work for all mountain duties? That is, fast and punchy climbs up technical rock sections?


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

Tehan... my question is not about singlespeed so I came here.
Im looking for a 1x10 drivetrain using the 32t AB oval 104BCD chainring I already ordered.
To get the correct chainline... should I use a 3x or a 2x crankset?

Thank you.

(42-11T e-13/xtr cassette).


----------



## Muchas (Dec 22, 2010)

Hi AB,

Do you know when you plan to ship 34t Sram oval GXP rings?. 
Looking forward to getting my hands on one


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

this ring is designed for hard riding so not sure what you ask. The slower you pedal the more benefit you feel from the oval.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

32T ring has integrated 2mm spacers which offsets ring by 2mm to the frame. So 2X crank is more than good. 3X crank is also good and it will move your ring by another 2mm to the frame.


Just be careful as some new (2014) 3X cranks have 94bcd spider. They can be distinguished by 30T middle ring on them. If there is 32T it means normal 104bcd spider.


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

Hell yeah!! Got it.


----------



## skyfire1202 (Jan 21, 2008)

Hi Tehan! Will you be doing 36T oval rings too for 104bcd or even 38T?


----------



## brmeyer135 (Mar 1, 2013)

Shipping- 16.9$ is actually a steal







We ship from UK and 16.9$ for tracked parcel is actually less than Royal mail charge + envelope +stickers and fuel to the post. It costs me 19...

Just pointing out that Merlincycles.com can ship to the US for free(over $80)

Otherwise, I don't suppose ya'll wll create any rings for 86bcd?

Love what you have done in the chainring space.


----------



## richtpop (Nov 8, 2014)

tehan said:


> I wrote it that way as It really depends on your personal perception. Some people will tell that it rides like 30T and some will write it's just a bit harder than 30T, but surely easier than 32T.
> On average, yes treat it like 31T to calculate gears for eg.


Does this mean a 34 should feel abit more like a 33 when climbing.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes 34T oval will feel kind of like 33T round.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

skyfire1202 said:


> Hi Tehan! Will you be doing 36T oval rings too for 104bcd or even 38T?


36T is in plans for early next year. When exactly is hard to tell at the moment.


----------



## Davide (Jan 29, 2004)

tehan said:


> oval 32t is easier than round 32T.
> 
> oval 32T will be similar to ride something between 30/32T on round. Oval 32T will not be easier than round 30T if that's what you are asking.


Any plan to have a direct mount version, compatible with Race Face Cinch system?


----------



## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

Davide said:


> Any plan to have a direct mount version, compatible with Race Face Cinch system?


I second, third, and fourth this.


----------



## jescowhite (Jul 19, 2014)

what kind of chain do i use on this chainring when running singlespeed?


----------



## Fijijdm (Jul 18, 2014)

tehan said:


> 36T is in plans for early next year. When exactly is hard to tell at the moment.


36t is exactly what I'm looking for. These work with 2x10 drivetrains right?


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Fijijdm said:


> 36t is exactly what I'm looking for. These work with 2x10 drivetrains right?


They could work I suppose. As they're narrow wide to stop the chain coming off, it'd be a bugger to shift between chain rings though.


----------



## djjohnr (Sep 9, 2013)

CuddlyToast said:


> I second, third, and fourth this.


Fifth, sixth and seventh 

30T cinch compatible please!


----------



## Joelk (Aug 26, 2013)

djjohnr said:


> Fifth, sixth and seventh
> 
> 30T cinch compatible please!


I am also interested (Race Face Cinch, 32 and 34 tooth).


----------



## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

This showed up today in California, It's a very nice looking ring, looking forward to trying it out. 34T


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

Setup completed.


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

CH, if you don't mind me asking, do you know the date you ordered your 34T Oval? Hopefully I can CANCEL my order and get in on the deal AB just posted on FB !
------------
" Because of such a great response we want to allow you to try the product at lower price. So from now till Sunday 1pm you will get FREE postage. (that is about 17$/11eur) ...
This offer is valid only for 32 or 34T 104BCD Oval rings. "


----------



## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

jp,

It was right at the beginning of the month, the payment went through on the 3rd.


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

CH, Thanks...........


----------



## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

Got mine yesterday and it looks really good. Can't wait to install and ride it!


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*Saul*, dying to read your Review of the Oval !


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Hopefully will be doing a good long hilly ride tomorrow. Will be comparing the 32t oval and 11-36 cassette to the last ride on the same tracks with a 34t front and 13-40 cassette.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

jp08865 said:


> CH, if you don't mind me asking, do you know the date you ordered your 34T Oval?


You will get yours by Monday most likely as you ordered few days later.
We always send according to order date to be fair with customer.


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

*tehan*, Thank You for the reply.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

NordieBoy said:


> Hopefully will be doing a good long hilly ride tomorrow. Will be comparing the 32t oval and 11-36 cassette to the last ride on the same tracks with a 34t front and 13-40 cassette.


Gearing felt good, virtually the same low gear with a higher top.
Traction was good, and the best bit, after 10min, I didn't feel any "ovalness", it just felt natural.

Similar heart rate to last time, but 4min faster.


----------



## some dude (Jan 1, 2014)

Got my 34t ano-green yesterday, still waiting on a replacement frame though so may be 1-however many weeks before I get to try it!


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Has the GXP Direct Mount 32 oval shipped yet? Was supposed to ship 11/9 I believe.


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

deleted


----------



## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

Got er done tonight, Absolute Black 34T Oval and a Wolftooth 42T GC on a Fuel EX 9.8 29er.

302g/.67lb savings

Rode around the driveway, worked good, felt the oval a little, won't be able to give it a real shake down for a few days. I'll report back.


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Ordered mine on 11/7/14 and still waiting. They are not on top of keeping customer informed. I need a front chain ring lots of grinding noise it's a wolf tooth lasted three months. I don't want to buy another front ring if mine is coming soon? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

I'm pretty bummed out to:cryin: I put my order in on 10/27/14 and the confirmation email from Absoluteblack stated delivery about 11/9 or a bit later??? I guess technically Absoluteblack covered his bases, but really??? I've sent 2 emails & no responses. Please give me a heads up, it's all I'm asking for!



mbtec1 said:


> Ordered mine on 11/7/14 and still waiting. They are not on top of keeping customer informed. I need a front chain ring lots of grinding noise it's a wolf tooth lasted three months. I don't want to buy another front ring if mine is coming soon?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi Guys,
sorry if some of you did not receive their rings yet. From a month or so we face huge increase in order volume and this impacts the response time.

We are on top of shipping the 104 oval rings and everything else except Sram oval chainrings. These shipped to everyone who already ordered them before 5th October. Everyone else will receive them in about a week as we are going to send all backorders this week. I know this is a bit late but making spiderless oval chainring is not easy and we faced some challenges when we started making them at full speed. Hence a delay. 

But now is all sorted and you will get them very shortly.


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Thanks for the fast reply. Looking forward to trying your oval ring. As a Strava addict can't wait to see my times. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Btw, We finally managed to make some real photos of Sram Oval chainring. Shipping Friday/Monday for all backorders and current orders.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Why did you make the chainline on these 50mm, when the ideal should be 47.5mm?

I was contemplating buying and XX1 crank, and one of these, but with the chainline 2.5mm more than ideal. i'd prefer to go with a 104 BCD one that I can tune with washers.

Pity as an XX1 crank with this ring would have been an awesome setup and would have dropped a load of weight.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

my post below explain most of the concerns.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

I thought stock GXP was 50mm?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Please also do not forget that new Boost 148 drivetrain system is going to be widely available in 2015 and this forces every single chainring manufacturer to change offset by 3mm outboard to clear the frame.
Well except us, as we made a universal offset which is excellent in Boost148 and 1x10 current conversions and still very good in 1x11 conversions.

So you buy 1 chainring from us and don't worry what system you have in the bike. It will fit for sure and can be changed between bikes if necessary.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

So what is the offset of your chainring and stock GXP?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

on 2X crank big ring is 52.5mm on 3X middle ring is 50mm (This is true for most crank manufacturers like Sram, Shimano, RF etc). XX1 crank has 49mm.
Boost 148 will require 52mm.
Our ring is 50mm

50 will clear all chainstays. while 47-49 not really.

What most people forget is that with 1X drivetrains you need to make a clever choice of front ring. 
Chainline is not that much important here. 
You should spend 85% of your riding time in middle of the cassette. If you don't do that currently that mens you have too small or too big chainring.

Lets take an example. 
Someone has now 30T and says that he spends most of the time in last 3-4 granny cogs on the rear. This is not good and you wear drivetrain a lot. But if you change the front ring to something like 28T suddenly you have moved chainline "virtually" to middle of the cassette as you start using lower gears to have same speed. 
If you already ride 28T and you are in same boat - try 26T. If you ride already 26T and still using last 3-4 granny cogs all the time = time to move back to 2X as going smaller than 26T up front does not make sense. 

If you ride 32T and use 11-13-15-17 all the time- it is time to move to 34 or even 36T.

In normal ride you should use your extreme gears only 15% of the time to have a perfectly healthy drivetrain. You need to optimize your drivetrain to your fittness level and terrain you ride. There is no shame to ride 28 or 26T up front if you need one.

This is a best way to get as much from 1X as possible. Saying 47.5mm chainline is optimal is not true. It is not. This chainline is optimal only for granny gears. But if you change front ring according to your needs you will start using more of the middle of the cassette. 
Try and you will not regret.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Tehan - I currently have a 1 x 9 setup (soon to be 1 x 10).

I have a SS Q Ring mounted to the outside ring position on a 2x XT Chainset. This would give me a chainline of 48.8mm, as far as i have been able to ascertain. I have shimmed the chainring using 1.2mm washers to give me a chainline of 47.6mm. Ideally I should be using the middle position on a 3 x chainset to give me the same position.

When I put the chain in the middle of the cassette, this looks close to having the chain running in a straight line (although I still feel the chainring could move in a little).

Although I want to lose some weight, by switching to an XX1 Crankset and direct mount ring, having the correct chainline is more important to me as I believe drivetrain efficiency is more important than lower weight.

I don't really understand why sram have gone with a 49mm chainline with XX1, and why the direct mount ones are even wider? Maybe I'm missing something, but for me a setup of 45 - 47.5mm looks to be correct. If you do a search on XX1 chainline issues, you'll find plenty of threads about people finding the chainline too wide.

Another consideration is that when using an Aluminium largest sprocket, either with an XX cassette or a 40t range extender, I'd prefer to have the best chainline possible, so to keep wear to a minimum.

I've never heard of boost 148 before, but I assume its a 148mm rear hub? Another standard that no one really wants? Why would I want a chainline compatible with this when I have no intention of buying a bike with it? (since i've only just begrudgingly converted to 142 since the bike I just bought has it, and have no intention of changing this bike for many years)

I appreciate your analogy of using the correct size chainring to keep you in the middle of the cassette, however there is always going to be times when you have to use the biggest sprocket (often when you're tired), so you want the gears to be running smoothly in this setup. 

I'd have thought that if you manufactured a direct mount ring with a chainline that better suits 135 / 142 rear hubs, then people would be very interested in this!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

hey,
What you describe is your personal case. We sell thousands of those and they fit perfectly well. We need to think globally not locally to supply the parts. There will always be the case where something may be less than ideal, but we can't cover all the bases. Same is happening with every single part from every manufacturer.
99% of setups are really good with such a chainline.

What you propose (47mm chainline) will have a negative impact on lower gears and make them hard to ride. So we will not do it.

If you converting to 1x10 with XX1 crank then our spiderless ring will be on 5th gear - means ideal chainline. 

You can't have perfect chainline for granny gears and still have great chainline for small cogs at the same time. This is simply not possible with 1X. Some people complain on XX1 chainline as they use wrong ring up front and then use granny gears all the time.

This is why I wrote longer post above. If you don't ride 85% of the time in sort of middle of the cassette in your local trails then you have a wrong ring up front. 

Boost 148 will be a standard for many many bikes in 2015 and 2016. Especially for 29ers. You will not change a bike in few years maybe, but another few million people will and we need to support them as well.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Its not really just my personal case, since what I'm doing isn't unusual - i.e. run a 1x setup with a 135 / 142 hub. 

And I want the chainline of the chainring to line up with the center of the cassette, not for it to favour either high or low gears.

Its my understanding that the chainline on mtb chainsets increased from what is ideal, in order to allow the front mech to function properly with oversize tubes. However this isn't an issue with 1 x setups (unless you're running large chainrings), so why does the chainline need to stay wider than it should be?

Maybe a few million will convert to Boost 148, but ther'll will still be many millions more who will still be running 135 / 142.

Do you have information on what the correct chainline is for a 135 / 142 hubs? Maybe I'm off wit the 47.5mm figure?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

I just wrote above that with 1x10 conversion and our chainring with XX1 crank, chainline is on 5th gear(that is middle of cassette). So not sure why you keep saying you need 47.5mm chainline...
You just contradict yourself at the minute. 
What I am talking here is a standard setup with 135/142 spacing.

With Boost 148 spacing of 148mm your chain would be on 6th gear in same setup as talking above. 
So our rings fit just fine. You just need to go an ride and stop worrying about those numbers


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Thing is no matter how you look or set it up a 1x will have a compromise either at the top end or low end.

Thats the reason (fwiw) that the chainline be kept at center as much as possible.

One can only limit the 'severed' chain angle by moving the chainring inboard or outboard with the effect of severely increasing the angle of the other end.

Tehan has a point about staying in the middle if one is concerned about chainline. But still there is still a limit up to how many teeth a chainring can accomodate depending on the chainstay geo.

Ie not all frames and/or legs can run 1x may it be oval or round. Theres always a limiting factor to everything.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Tehan - you need to stop getting so defensive when I'm trying to have a genuine conversation about an issue.

I ride plenty thanks - this is why I want my gears to run as smoothly and efficiently as possible, so that I don't cause premature wear to a very expensive cassette.

I've asked you if you have any information on what the correct chainline is for a 135 / 142 hub, you claim that your chainline of 50mm is correct. This is contradictory to other information that I have been able to find which suggests that 45 or 47.5mm is correct:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...nline-1-x-setups-135-142-rear-hub-941112.html

Here on sheldon brown, they say that 47.5 is ideal, this is where I got my figure from:
Chainline on Bicycles with Derailers

My issues is that with a 1x setup, there are no front mech issues requiring a wider (50mm) chainline, just chainring to stay clearance ( but a 34t oval works fine at 47.6 on my setup), so why not make the ideal setup, rather than one copied from multi chainrings?


----------



## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Well I can tell you for fact that the tall 42 tooth cog on the new 1x cogsets are creating massive havoc with the narrow/wide chainrings and wearing them out fast in the cross gear even at 49mm (Sram's standard). Going wider is just plain wrong I don't care what tehan is saying. And to suggest we stay in the middle cogs is also idiotic - anyone who lives in the REAL mountains knows that you spend MOST of your time in the largest and smallest cogs with very little time in the middle as you are either going UP or DOWN! FWIW Wolf Tooth just came out with a 49mm chainline for their RaceFace rings because they now uderstand this as DOES B-Labs with an even tighter 48.5mm chainline: B-Labs OVAL chainring
The problem is real - I have a toasted 30t Sram ring after only 400 miles and there is plenty of info here on the Race Face rings going fast too with their 51mm chainline (the rear cogs are not wearing, just the narrow wide rings). The wider rear chainstays (for today's bigger tires) do play a part in this as the larger you go in ring size, the wider the chainline needs to be to clear the chain stays. 47.5 might be ideal but good luck clearing your chainstay with anything over 32 tooth on a modern frame. It's a balancing act peeps!

Have FUN!

G MAN


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Gman086 said:


> The problem is real - I have a toasted 30t Sram ring after only 400 miles.


Have you toasted any 3rd party n/w chainrings?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Sorry if I may have come across as being defensive. English is not my first language so i try my best to describe what I think.



xcbarny said:


> My issues is that with a 1x setup, there are no front mech issues requiring a wider (50mm) chainline, just chainring to stay clearance ( but a 34t oval works fine at 47.6 on my setup)...


And we got to the point. It would be probably ok on your own setup with your frame model, frame size, crank etc. But we sell to tens of thousands of customers with very different setup array. There are millions of combinations we need to fit into. But I understand it is easy to forget about it when you look only at your particular bike.

There is no fixed figure for chainline number. On 10spd cassette 50mm chainline is perfect (and this is what you want) as it is in dead middle center. On 11spd it could be a bit improved, but soon most frames will require 52mm chainline due to growing chainstays and hubs and we are already prepared for it.

Concluding. There isn't really something like ideal chainline on 1X. There is always a little compromise to be made. Like I wrote already 45-47mm chainline will not fit many frames with ring bigger than 30T(yours may be ok but we are talking overall) and most importantly such chainline would be only good for top 3/4 of the cassette.

If you need such a chainline we offer 26/28/30T 64BCD rings for such extreme situations where you need only your granny gears. This will give you chainline of 45/47 dependent on 3X or 2X crank spider. But as you may notice we only offer sizes up to 30T as nothing bigger will fit with such a chainline to 90% of frames on the market.

With 1X you have to make your own personal decisions. In your case staying with a spidered crank and mount our 64BCD ring may be a better option if you like smaller chainline then going spidrless. This is why we have many options to offer.

In general on 1x10 conversion our sram spidrless ring is ideal.

I will also write again. If you wear out your biggest cog very quickly then it means you use it far too often. That means you use too big front ring. If you would use granny gear like 40/42T only 10% of the riding time this cog would last a full season with no problem. This is why taking correct chainring up front is crucial.

With our oval rings things have simplified a bit as Oval give you an "easier gear" comparing to same tooth count round equivalent. So you will effectively start using lower gears on the back and save your granny gears only for extreme situations.
Please have a think about what I wrote. 
If you used 32T round then try 32T oval or 28/30T round and you will improve your chainline.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

uff. We sold lots of them and on average our ring last 3x longer than Sram one...

What you say is perfect example where you have too big of a ring up front. 42T is a bail out gear not a half a day use gear. If you change your ring to 28T or even smaller one you will stop using 42T as often as you do now. Please have a think about it. This is what Sram is promoting all the time, but many people do not understand it. 
Please look what pros do with XX1. they change the front ring on every race according to terrain. why they do it? To stay in the middle of the cassette most of the time as you get less drag from chain= great speed at less effort.
Of course in our regular riding this would be not convinient. This is why picking one correct size to fit most of your local stuff is crucial. Read what I wrote above how to figure out correct ring and you are good.

We do offer smaller chainline as well on many rings. Oval 32T 104BCD has integrated 2mm spacers to push to 48mm chainline. But this does not fit 100% of frames. 

We do 64BCD rings in 26/28/30T for those extreme mountain situations where even with 28T up front you still use last 4 cogs all the time. Who said you need to use spiderless option in every single case??

In majority of cases our spiderless option works excellent especially on 1x10 drivetrains. There is no argue with that.

If you really need to use such a small chainline then consider buying a crank with a spider to fit our 64BCD rings. They are Very popular among our customers who live in mountains as they use mostly granny gears so this is perfect option.

on the side note. You will not feel a difference between 49 and 50mm chainline under your legs or ears. I can bet about it. So making 1mm more does not change anything.

Again. Choose your ring smartly to your needs.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

I would agree that no one is going to notice 49 vs 50 mm. Not sure why everyone is beating up on Tehan since this chainline is the industry norm right now . The Next SL cranks I have been drooling over have a 51 offset. Wolftooth is 50. SRAM is 49 apparently. I get some grinding already with 49, but the short chainstays on my Mach 6 accentuate the issue. 

However, I don't pick a front chainring to "stay in the middle of the cassette." I pick the gearing that gives me the best RANGE for my trails. If I went to a 26 or 28 tooth, I would run out of gear going down.


----------



## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

xcbarny said:


> Why did you make the chainline on these 50mm, when the ideal should be 47.5mm?


You wont even notice. I am running this on my Epic, Yeti, and Echo...


----------



## Jan (Mar 8, 2004)

tehan said:


> Please look what pros do with XX1. they change the front ring on every race according to terrain. why they do it? To stay in the middle of the cassette most of the time as you get less drag from chain= great speed at less effort.


No, that's not the reason. The reason they have to do this is because of the limited range on a 1x drivetrain. You want low enough gear in the steep climbings, but also high enough gear in the descendings. Also, using big chainrings will be more efficient, so if you don't need a very low gear in a specific race, then you want a bigger chainring in front. A bigger chainring will also last longer than a smaller one.

"The major factors affecting efficiency are spocket size, larger sprockets providing better power transfer, and chain tension."
The amazing unimportance of chainline and chain lubrication | Pedalitis


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Jan said:


> No, that's not the reason. The reason they have to do this is because of the limited range on a 1x drivetrain. You want low enough gear in the steep climbings, but also high enough gear in the descendings. Also, using big chainrings will be more efficient, so if you don't need a very low gear in a specific race, then you want a bigger chainring in front. A bigger chainring will also last longer than a smaller one.
> 
> "The major factors affecting efficiency are spocket size, larger sprockets providing better power transfer, and chain tension."
> The amazing unimportance of chainline and chain lubrication | Pedalitis


And by doing what you say you end up riding in middle of the cassette most of the time.
We sponsor few world cup XC athletes and this is their feedback.


----------



## Gab344 (Oct 14, 2009)

Does any know of someone who does a direct mount oval ring to fit a SHORT spindle BB30 Crank please?

Been on Google all afternoon, and all the manufactures I've found only do ones to fit GXP or BB30 long type only 

Many thanks if you can point me in the right direction!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We will do it in late January. 32T oval for the start.

There is no one on the market doing them at the moment.


----------



## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

Tehan, please tell me you will be doing the DM S-Works rings before the Raceface rings as many of us have been waiting since spring for these.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Wondering, can mouting the oval ring work if placed on the big ring position of a 3x crank? This might fix my chainstay clearance issue for my build...


----------



## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

just installed my new A/B 32t oval and did my first ride. 

My setup: 29er hardtail.
1x10 with SRAM X9 type2 rear D
Raceface Turbine cranks
Replaced Raceface 32t narrow/wide with Absolute Black 32t narrow/wide (104 BCD)
Install was easier than falling out of bed

The difference is a bit more subtle than I expected in terms of pedaling motion
I kind of expected something more dramatic
Nice though. Smooth. No dead spot. Power is just always on.
No issues with chain line, or shifting quality. It's all just good.

Very happy


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

tehan said:


> We do offer smaller chainline as well on many rings. Oval 32T 104BCD has integrated 2mm spacers to push to 48mm chainline. But this does not fit 100% of frames.


I'm confused. Why would you offer a 48mm chainline ring, if 50mm is perfect?


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

tadmcmichael said:


> I would agree that no one is going to notice 49 vs 50 mm. Not sure why everyone is beating up on Tehan since this chainline is the industry norm right now .


I didn't ask the question as a beat up, and the only reason it was directed at Tehan is because he's the only one from the industry who is actually talking to the the consumer here, so fair play to him for that.

As you said, this is an industry standard thing, so I wanted to know, why when Sheldon Brown says the perfect chainline for an MTB is 47.5, has the industry gone with 49 - 51mm?

Yeh, I get that its only a couple of mm, and most people won't notice, but it is something that I do notice. So if it means that I have to stick with a 104 BCD chainring, which I can adjust the chainline on, rather than a lighter direct mount setup, then so be it.

Since it seems that the main issue is chainstay clearance, I'd say that there would be a case to have 2 different versions - one with the correct chainline, and one with the increased clearance chainline. Similar to how Sram have the 2 different q factor crank sets. Or just make the bigger ring sizes with increased chainline.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I run a SRAM XX1 crank with a stock 30T.

When I'm in the three largest cogs...I do notice a low rumbling noise from the chainring that I don't get in the smaller cogs.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

I remember seeing pics of Pro XC bikes, probably pre XX & XX1, where they'd put a spacer behind the cassette, and leave off one of the smaller sprockets, in order to get a better chainline on the bigger climbing sprockets.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I actually tried putting different sized spacers behind my cassette. I bought a 1.2mm Shimano shim from Ebay...but it was too thick...I couldn't get more than 1 or 2 turns on the lock ring. There is a .9mm I'm thinking about. Right now I have one of the two shims that originally came with my OneUp 42T. I don't think its making a difference...haha.


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Did you take a smaller sprocket off to make room for the spacer?

you should be able to move it over 4mm then


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

No, I didn't remove anything. I'm still 10 speed. Only thing XX1 I have is the crank. My shifter is and X0 and RD is X9. I do have the Ridea 30T en route.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

This one is well worth reading about Oval rings (as we are quite similar to Rotor it also applies to ours):

From Inside Peloton: SLO Motion ? Peloton

"Round rings do not optimize the way humans produce power. It's as simple as that. Anyone interested in going faster on their bike needs to switch to oval rings. As O'Hara's study percolates through the pro peloton and the entire cycling community, 10 years from now, when only vintage bikes have round rings, we will look back on her study as the turning point."


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Hopefully my XX1 oval ring will arrive sometime soon!! Can't wait to try it on my Pivot 429c 29er.


----------



## Joshua_B (Oct 1, 2011)

Will these fit Cannondale cranks? I have a 2015 Scalpel Team with the XX1 chainring. Can find any info on the cranks to see what BCD it is.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

If you have hollowgram cranks and want oval then best way is to get 104BCD spider for the crank and then our 104BCD oval ring:
OVAL 104BCD chainring

We do spiderless rings for Cdale but they are round.

Marcin


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Joshua_B said:


> Will these fit Cannondale cranks? I have a 2015 Scalpel Team with the XX1 chainring. Can find any info on the cranks to see what BCD it is.


If it's an XX1 chainring, per SRAM's website, and Google, it's 76mm.


----------



## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

gripper35 said:


> just installed my new A/B 32t oval and did my first ride.
> 
> My setup: 29er hardtail.
> 1x10 with SRAM X9 type2 rear D
> ...


You won't notice a chainline issue until the chainring starts to wear out. That said I think it's great that AB does have the option of narrowing up the chainline with their rings for the spider versions. My comments were for spiderless which is really what I want for a number of different reasons.

Have FUN!

G MAN


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Still waiting!!! ;-((


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm still waiting too, Green Oval!!


----------



## mtbbiker (Apr 8, 2004)

I hate to jump on the bandwagon, but I put my order in on 10/27/14 & I'm still waiting. Not very happy at the moment. The website said shipping around 11/7 & my current N/W chainring was just beginning to make grinding noise. I ordered up this oval chainring thinking I'd get this product in a reasonable time. 

At this point, instead of investing in another N/W chain ring I had to put on a spare crankset, spare normal chainring & an upper guide. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Ordered on 10-8-14, has anyone received any tracking info on ring? I look in the mail everyday "thinking today is the day".


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Today was the day, it just came in. Time to put it on and see what the oval thing all about!! Yea, that's what I'm talking about.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Im holding off purchase until delivery issues are sorted. This seems to be a turn off imo...

This is a good product and i hope logistics and the delivery do not mess it up.

Ill be getting a green 32t shimano oval.

US order/shipping to NY.


----------



## bigdrunk (Feb 21, 2004)

Curious to hear how it compares to what you are currently running.



dgw7000 said:


> Today was the day, it just came in. Time to put it on and see what the oval thing all about!! Yea, that's what I'm talking about.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Moved the 32t over from the Stumpy hard tail 1x10 race bike to the new (to me) Kona Unit.

Going from 26" to 29" will effectively gear things up, but the Unit's 180mm cranks will help there...









It feels like the benefits of extra traction are more pronounced on the single speed than the gearies.

Won't be long before I'm a repeat customer though...


----------



## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

NordieBoy said:


> It feels like the benefits of extra traction are more pronounced on the single speed than the gearies.


Precisely what I found. On a singlespeed gearing down and shifting the weight way back for a slippery uphill is simply not possible. The oval ring made loss of traction more gradual (because the effective gearing is higher at the point where crank torque is highest) and allowed to quickly get over the dead spots to start another stroke.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

spyghost said:


> Im holding off purchase until delivery issues are sorted. This seems to be a turn off imo...
> 
> This is a good product and i hope logistics and the delivery do not mess it up.
> 
> ...


Guys, At the moment we are getting a large amount of orders still. We try to catch up but because Christmas is just behind the corner do not expect USPS to deliver it on time.

Many customers say that parcel was held by US customs for more than 2 weeks alone. This is busiest period of the year. It has always been for postal agencies. So you really need to be a little bit more patient.

All old orders we sent long time ago so most of you should have it by now. Contact me if you have troubles on email and I will help you to find where it is.

In 99% of cases you were not home and parcel is sitting at your local post office for those who don't have it yet. We found that very common. Usually postman "forgot" to leave notice.

My good advise - order and wait for shipping note. We ship backorders first and list is long at the minute. So we don't expect to have free stock any time soon. Just place the order and you will get it in first/second week of January most likely in US.

Most of the issues are not with us not delivering, but with USPS being very slow. Many internet shops already write "delivery time 14 days". It is this time of the year..


----------



## Babar-the-French (Dec 18, 2014)

Hi Tehan !

I'm fond of absolute black's oval NW chainring, but with the new BCD standards (96bcd for my shimano xt :/), do you plan on releasing them ? I'd buy one the day it comes out !!

Thanks


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Saul Lumikko said:


> Precisely what I found. On a singlespeed gearing down and shifting the weight way back for a slippery uphill is simply not possible. The oval ring made loss of traction more gradual (because the effective gearing is higher at the point where crank torque is highest) and allowed to quickly get over the dead spots to start another stroke.


And standing and climbing on the SS, you get better at adjusting body position for better traction at different parts of the pedal stroke compared to sitting and spinning.

Who needs the gym for a whole body workout when you've got an SS


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

hey,
No plans for 96BCD. This is only on some oem 29er bikes. It's 10x better to sell this crank and get normal 104bcd version of XT.

If someone require smaller oval than 32T we are going to make 28T oval for 64BCD. This will be great for climbing on 29ers or enduro bikes if someone can't push 32T at the moment.
28T oval will be 26/30T equivalent in round in min/max radious. This should fit on your crank as well as it is as far as I remember 64/96BCD.


----------



## Babar-the-French (Dec 18, 2014)

Thanks for your piece of advice !


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

For those who wonder how the chain tension looks like on SS bike here is a small example.






As you can see it is correctly tensioned on the biggest radius and slightly slack on min radius. This is absolutely fine. Chain will never drop and you get less chain wear as it is not stretched to maximum all the time.


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

It's here came in the mail today. Installed and ready to ride can't wait to give a ride report.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Mine came today also. 32 tooth SRAM GXP Oval Direct Mount. I am going to sell it, as I bought a 30 tooth from B Labs while waiting for this one (since Nov. 2). New in package, never used, never mounted.

PM me if you are interested. Same price, $82.90 shipped via Paypal. The advantage from me is you won't have to wait long for it. SOLD


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Had a chance to test it out, first off adjusting to the oval ring was very natural and easy. In your head you think it will feel so strange, but its feels like the old 32 tooth ring it replaced when spinning.

Now the good part, I love it!! I found myself getting out of the saddle more and just powering up hills in a lower gear, but now it just felt smoother with less energy wasted. In the saddle I felt it less but I was still going faster in lower gearing. It was like this "something just felt better", can't wait to keep testing it out. Great job on the design of ring, it could be a bit tighter on crank. The Sram spider is tighter with less slop, but when the screws installed all nice and tight. Saved 30grams of weight!!


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

...


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

I love it!!


----------



## otsenresiul (Sep 26, 2014)

Question...
In my 1x10 is better to use a 10s chain (got shimano m981) or a 11s (maybe dura-ace 9000)?

Ty.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

I would use 10 speed chain and Lilly lube, the best lube I have ever used !! In wet weather no better!!


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tehan said:


> hey,
> No plans for 96BCD. This is only on some oem 29er bikes. It's 10x better to sell this crank and get normal 104bcd version of XT.
> 
> If someone require smaller oval than 32T we are going to make 28T oval for 64BCD. This will be great for climbing on 29ers or enduro bikes if someone can't push 32T at the moment.
> 28T oval will be 26/30T equivalent in round in min/max radious. This should fit on your crank as well as it is as far as I remember 64/96BCD.


How bout a SRAM direct mount 28t? My bike doesn't fit a bigger ring.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

tadmcmichael said:


> Mine came today also. 32 tooth SRAM GXP Oval Direct Mount. I am going to sell it, as I bought a 30 tooth from B Labs while waiting for this one (since Nov. 2). New in package, never used, never mounted.
> 
> PM me if you are interested. Same price, $82.90 shipped via Paypal. The advantage from me is you won't have to wait long for it.


Our is different to Blabs so I would keep it on your place. We have slightly different clocking which minimizes feeling of the ovality.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

thanks for feedback.
Sram has quite wide tolerances on the crank splines. So it vary from crank to crank. Therefore we keep it with minimal play. Some will find it a bit loose and some will find it almost perfectly matching the crank splines. Those 3 bolts hold the ring actually(not the spline pattern as a whole), so this should not be a concern. 

I like how well it matches your bike!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

both chains will be absolutely fine.
The only difference would be in deep mud. You would get less rub from 11spd chain (on 10spd cassette) as it is slightly narrower in outside diameter, so leaves bigger gaps between rear cogs. 
Other than that you would notice no difference.


----------



## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

Tehan, are you definitely planning to make a short spindle pf30 sram direct mount oval? Reason I ask is my yelli screamy has limited chainring clearance, so that with Sram gxp cranks I'm currently running a Wolftooth short spindle version ( it has no offset, so chain line on a gxp crank ends up about 55mm). 99% sure I could run a 32t oval version of a flat, no offset sram direct mount... 

Or if you feel really ambitious a direct mount for lightning/s-works cranks would be awesome on my Stumpy, currently running a Wolftooth on that as well, would love to try an oval.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

montana_ben said:


> Tehan, are you definitely planning to make a short spindle pf30 sram direct mount oval? Reason I ask is my yelli screamy has limited chainring clearance, so that with Sram gxp cranks I'm currently running a Wolftooth short spindle version ( it has no offset, so chain line on a gxp crank ends up about 55mm). 99% sure I could run a 32t oval version of a flat, no offset sram direct mount...
> 
> Or if you feel really ambitious a direct mount for lightning/s-works cranks would be awesome on my Stumpy, currently running a Wolftooth on that as well, would love to try an oval.


What's the largest 1x chainring you've fitted a yelli screamy?

I'm planning on using a 32t shimano oval but it might screw the chainline...


----------



## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

^^^I'm just running a 30t right now Spyghost. Check around in the Canfield forum there's a thread where people talk about different chainrings and cranks on the yelli. All I know is with sram xo cranks I could not use a standard Wolftooth direct mount 32t. With a the non-dished pf30 short spindle version it would work, I just ended up getting a 30t. Chainline is out there at 55mm but no problems yet, probably some increased wear in the long term.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

I have a couple of rides now on the oval ring and liking it a lot. Despite my best efforts to change, I am a lower cadence guy. My first ride I didn't feel much difference, but didn't feel awkward either. Second ride out I noticed that my legs felt fresher throughout the ride. I do feel a bit more improvement at lower cadence than at faster cadences. Not a Strava guy, would be interested in whether people get a measurable time decrease.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes BB30 flat version will be in stock in early Feb.
We are in the middle of designing these and few others.


----------



## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

montana_ben said:


> Tehan, are you definitely planning to make a short spindle pf30 sram direct mount oval? Reason I ask is my yelli screamy has limited chainring clearance, so that with Sram gxp cranks I'm currently running a Wolftooth short spindle version ( it has no offset, so chain line on a gxp crank ends up about 55mm).  99% sure I could run a 32t oval version of a flat, no offset sram direct mount...
> 
> Or if you feel really ambitious a direct mount for lightning/s-works cranks would be awesome on my Stumpy, currently running a Wolftooth on that as well, would love to try an oval.


The DM Lightening/ S-Works rings were supposed to be done last summer. Not even sure if they plan on doing them anymore. Several riders in my area including myself have been waiting for these, hopefully it still happens.


----------



## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

> yes BB30 flat version will be in stock in early Feb.
> We are in the middle of designing these and few others.


Thanks Tehan good to know... I'll be on the lookout for it, looking forward to giving it a try.


----------



## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

Any progress updates on the Race Face NExt SL direct mount oval rings?


----------



## dreednya (Mar 9, 2004)

Not sure if it has been asked before but any news on a 120BCD chainring for use on SRAM XX cranks or Raceface turbine 120 BCD cranks?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

thehiredgun said:


> Any progress updates on the Race Face NExt SL direct mount oval rings?


They are going in early January to production. Will look almost identical to Sram oval spiderless rings.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

my honest answer would be - sell this crank while you still can and buy something like X0 or similar so you can use spiderless version or some crank with 104BCD spider.

120 in 1X is surely a dead BCD.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

just found a video of one of our customer.
XX1 drivetrain and oval sram spiderless chainring.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Review from Pinkbike:

Absolute Black Oval Chainring - Review - Pinkbike


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

thanks for posting. Missed that one.


----------



## goran.vucica (Feb 4, 2015)

Yesterday mounted  Today will be first test.
AB oval 34T Cannondale green on Cannondale Flash 29er


----------



## kevocastro (Sep 23, 2011)

Have been testing the oval 34 for a month now, setup as follows

XT rear der
XT cassette
One Up 42 cog
One Up 16 cog (poor shifting)
34 Oval chainring

Previously had the 34 and 30t Race Face, dropped a chain in both of them (once or twice) and haven't dropped a chain on the Oval yet, very pleased on the quality of the Absolute Black


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

So if I have a BB30 short-spindle crank, the GXP ring will fit but result in ~45mm chainline?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

correct. This would not be a problem normally but many frames these days will not allow for such chainline and you will have some rub on chainstay if you use GXP ring on short spindle BB30 axle. Some frames will accept that but general rule is that they don't. Hence there is a need for a flat version of same ring.


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Thanks for the quick response. Any update on the flat version? Last I heard was late January.


----------



## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

any word on the RaceFace oval rings?


----------



## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

And the S-Works rings ???


----------



## goran.vucica (Feb 4, 2015)

Yesterday was easy test. I can tell you that the oval definitely works 
- It is easier to pedal uphill slope
- The legs are less burdened
- The chain does not fall out even at maximum load
- Perfect changing all 10 speed (SRAM cassette 11-36)
For now I am more than satisfied. I'm waiting for the weekend and a longer ride as well as larger and long uphill climb 
More about the experiences in the next appearance ...
P.S. next week I will have the opportunity to test the smaller A / B oval 32T ring


----------



## xluossa (Jan 22, 2010)

Will there ever be oval spiderless for hollowgrams?


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

xluossa said:


> Will there ever be oval spiderless for hollowgrams?


This. I'd like to get some, but don't want to have to find and use a 104mm BCD spider. I just sold mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eam611 (Oct 24, 2007)

AB oval 32T 104bcd on cdale scalpel 29er.



A good 2mm Clearance on chainstay



I will try it first before adding 2 links as per AB recommendation.


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Tehan, just putting in my name on the waiting list for 36t!
Ideally in red!


----------



## Weedling (Feb 28, 2008)

Has anyone tried running one of these with an upper chain guide?


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Weedling said:


> Has anyone tried running one of these with an upper chain guide?


I think I may have destroyed a chain in a race yesterday. Checking it after the race and it has gone from less than .5% to more than 1%. There's about 5cm of slack. Not one chain drop. Including a 20min rocky descent.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

Weedling said:


> Has anyone tried running one of these with an upper chain guide?


I run MRP upper guide with 32t AB oval ring.


----------



## Weedling (Feb 28, 2008)

Cool, thanks Strafer. I will try one of these out then.


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

I'm SOLD. So, when is the 32t available?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

we are out of stock at the minute but will have more in 4 days. Shipping time to US is about 7 days at the current speed of USPS.

I really do recommend to backorder and wait (max 5-7days). We always send older orders first. So if you order today and another 200 people will order tomorrow, then once we get stock your order will be sent first...


----------



## thehiredgun (Dec 14, 2011)

When will be able to place orders for the Next SL DM Oval rings?


----------



## wedge962005 (Mar 11, 2011)

xluossa said:


> Will there ever be oval spiderless for hollowgrams?


This is what I'm waiting for as well. I have the cranks and want to ditch the spider but I also want to try the oval at the same time. Are you working on these or have plans?


----------



## Crash Dummy (Jan 21, 2012)

I just ordered the required parts to convert my Mojo HD from a 1x9 to a 1x10. I have E13 DH/AM cranks and was going to replace my 32t round ring with a RaceFace narrow wide 30t to go with the new XT11-36 cassette. 

I'm looking to improve my climbing ability. I know a 30t round ring and a 11-36 cassette will give me more power but would I be better off with a 32t oval ring for climbing? From what I'm gathering a 30t round ring is more power but the oval ring is a slight increase in power and puts in me in a better cadence making climbing easier?

I won't be riding for months yet so if a 32t is recommended over a 30t round ring I would be able to try it and I have plenty of time for it to arrive.


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Crash Dummy said:


> I just ordered the required parts to convert my Mojo HD from a 1x9 to a 1x10. I have E13 DH/AM cranks and was going to replace my 32t round ring with a RaceFace narrow wide 30t to go with the new XT11-36 cassette.
> 
> I'm looking to improve my climbing ability. I know a 30t round ring and a 11-36 cassette will give me more power but would I be better off with a 32t oval ring for climbing? From what I'm gathering a 30t round ring is more power but the oval ring is a slight increase in power and puts in me in a better cadence making climbing easier?
> 
> I won't be riding for months yet so if a 32t is recommended over a 30t round ring I would be able to try it and I have plenty of time for it to arrive.


Neither will help you produce more power. I'm not sure why you've come to that conclusion.

An oval chainring may simply make producing that power feel smoother. There is no evidence that they will help you produce more power.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Crash Dummy (Jan 21, 2012)

Well I know my body won't physically be producing more power but I'm talking about a drivetrain with a ratio that will make climbing easier. A 30t round ring with a 11-36 cassette is going to have more underdrive vs a 32t round ring with the same cassette. So I guess I'm looking for opinions which setup would be best for improved climbing. More underdrive with a 30t x 11-36 or the more efficient power delivery of a 32t oval ring and 11-36 cassette?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Moment many of you have been waiting for. RaceFace Cinch Oval rings are here!
32T oval for the start with 30 and 34T coming in few more weeks.

Visit our web for more details:
RaceFace Oval

Lighter than original round ones, with great oval shape and possibility to adjust the clocking position of the ring if you want to. This is the Ultimate solution for your RF crank.

Long description:
Our main/recommended clocking position is a fantastic setup for everyone (same as our other rings in the line). However some more experienced riders may like a bit more aggressive clocking. RaceFace oval chainring allows you to change clocking position by 22deg both ways from initial setup. 
RF Cinch mounting pattern is the only one out of all direct mount chainring patterns on the market (like Sram/Hope/E13) that can be rotated by every 22.5deg (16 spline design). That coincides with 2 positions that oval users love.

Our main (signature) position is located around 3.30 oclock. That means crank arm is located at 3.30 oclock when major axis of the oval is at 12 oclock (vertical). That gives greatest benefits and excellent feel of the ring.

Our second position in RF oval rings is located at 4.30 oclock. That is 22deg later than our main position. You need to turn the ring clockwise by one notch on the spline pattern. This position is favored by some experienced riders out there who already rode oval rings for few years from various manufacturers. We do not recommend it for people who just started the experience with ovals as this position is more pronounced and aggressive. We encourage customers to play with second position only when they have ridden on the main position for minimum 5-6 months (or ridden other ovals for longer period of time).

Chainring has a mark on the back side of where the main position is. That mark needs to be located in the middle of crank arm.

Our oval 32T ring is only 62g vs 68g from RF. But oval 32T rides like 34T equivalent (RF 34T is 70g). That makes RF Next SL crank with our 32T oval ring lightest possible setup on the market (for that crank).


----------



## chris9888 (Feb 27, 2011)

Just installed, can't wait to try


----------



## Crash Dummy (Jan 21, 2012)

That's awesome. I think mine is in the US. I just broke down my bike, washed it and put my shiny new parts on. I'm ready for riding but it's too bad I'm about three or four months from that


----------



## d34nclub (Jun 13, 2014)

So is there anyway we can preorder a 30T oval gxp direct mount? Or do I have to wait until they are announced and in stock?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

we will most likely start accepting orders this week. 30T ovals are in anodizing now.


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

Any news/estimates on 104bcd 36t?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

fefillo said:


> Any news/estimates on 104bcd 36t?


My single speed CX bike is crying out for this one too.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

next week on the website. 36T 104bcd oval is in anodizing now. So be patient for few more days

Marcin


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

tehan said:


> next week on the website. 36T 104bcd oval is in anodizing now. So be patient for few more days
> 
> Marcin


Awesome news! I'll be checking the site to order.
Can you make one in red for me while you're at it? ;-)


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Looking forward to seeing the 30T.


----------



## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

Something came in the mail...Can you tell i like black? :thumbsup:

















AB makes some trick stuff. Cant wait for the snow to melt.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Shimano 36T oval 104BCD in stock! We just got the first batch, so it will not last for very long...

OVAL 104BCD chainring

Sram Oval 30 and 34T are also now available to order. Delivery in about 2 weeks.


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

I placed my order for the 36t soon after I saw the above email, and while it only took a few days for the package to be shipped from Poland, it's now apparently been stuck in some NY sorting facility for more than a week.

Anyone in the US have had a similar experience? Can it be stuck at customs?

Here's the USPS link in case anyone is familiar with what it actually says.
https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConf...llpage&tLc=1&text28777=&tLabels=RR704536796PL

- Thanks, Fefo


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Cannondale direct mount? Yes? Please?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

that is normal when USPS is busy. It just sits in their facility and it is not stuck in customs so not to worry. By monday it will move to your destination. We have seen it thousands of times now in last 2-3 months.
It just means that they have more parcels than they can handle at the moment.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

in plans. we need to launch few more other ovals first.


----------



## d34nclub (Jun 13, 2014)

Any plans for 94bcd ovals in the future? If so what kind of timeframe?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

4-5 weeks. We are really busy now making more options including 94bcd


----------



## wedge962005 (Mar 11, 2011)

tehan said:


> 4-5 weeks. We are really busy now making more options including 94bcd


Tehan, you are great, thanks so much for keeping us updated. Like many, I can't wait to order a couple of Cannondale direct mount ovalized rings from you.


----------



## butchog (Sep 23, 2010)

just got my sram spiderless oval ring. it left poland 4-9-15 and arrived here in the west coast (CA) today 4-17-15. it had some scanning activity at the NY ISC, Bethpage NY distribution center, Industry distribution center, and at the norwalk Post office. however the carrier did not scan it. i talked to the carrier before and said that they don't really scan foreign parcel it is like a hit or miss if the scan the foreign parcel. but it is here
i ordered it 3-13-15 and it was supposed to ship 3-28-15. not bad for ten days of delay

just have to figure out the correct orientation to install it.
i am guessing with the cranks in horizontal position, install the chainring where the x-axis is the longest?

any pointers on how to install it correctly?


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Hi 
SRAM it only mounts one way. The three torx bolts are tight with loc- tight so be careful not to round them out. And use loc-tight when reinstall or they might come lose. Your chain line might be off the new ring is 2 mm less off set then the one you have take off. You might need to shim the cranks all the way over so the chain will stay on the rear cassette when you freewheeling in the 42t or your lowest gear. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## butchog (Sep 23, 2010)

thanks

i will give it a try and hopefully no mods needed.
and btw, i am taking off a race face n/w ring 
don t know if they have same off sets?


----------



## mbtec1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Good luck. You can lay both chainring on a flat surface and see the difference in backspacing. AB has the back spacing for a single speed. This my only complaint about this product I would pay an extra $20.00 for the right backspacing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## butchog (Sep 23, 2010)

yes. now i see
i would have bought the 104 oval bcd if only i had this info


----------



## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Has anyone had any luck running some kind of bashguard/taco guard with these? Intrigued with the idea, but I definitely need a bash or I'll be going through a chain ring every other month or so...


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

tehan said:


> 4-5 weeks. We are really busy now making more options including 94bcd


How about a 96BCD (non-XTR).


----------



## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

rpearce1475 said:


> Has anyone had any luck running some kind of bashguard/taco guard with these? Intrigued with the idea, but I definitely need a bash or I'll be going through a chain ring every other month or so...


Don't know if you can see it in this picture but it's a taco for max 32t chainring. It could be a little bit bigger, but it will do for now! It is a 32t oval.


----------



## butchog (Sep 23, 2010)

*sram oval direct mount*



mbtec1 said:


> Hi
> SRAM it only mounts one way. The three torx bolts are tight with loc- tight so be careful not to round them out. And use loc-tight when reinstall or they might come lose. Your chain line might be off the new ring is 2 mm less off set then the one you have take off. You might need to shim the cranks all the way over so the chain will stay on the rear cassette when you freewheeling in the 42t or your lowest gear.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thanks for the info mbtec1. all of these info were very useful. im okay not to freewheel in the 42T. for now


----------



## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

I got 2 rides so far with AB oval CRC version (cheaper, a bit heavier, without fancy cosmetic contour lines).
I like it a lot, help on climbing for sure, I was able to clear some climb with 1 gear higher than usual, and less fatigue too. highly recommended.

I was using 32t RF n/w, now 32t oval AB, 11-40t with XT shadow+ RD.

felt a bit weird on flat, maybe the first 20m in or so. Now feel more natural, and climbing has better traction, and better power transfer, smoother so to speak.
same experience with majority AB oval user.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Picked up one of these, can't wait to give it a shot. It's going on my 1x9 setup.

The info with them says a 10sp chain must be used on a 1x9 setup. I don't want to doubt their expertise, but this is not something I've ever heard of, and I can't quite get my head round how this might make any difference just because of the wonky chainring design. I thought 9 & 10 speed chains were the same internal width, so how can a 10 speed chain make any difference?

Obviously I can just try it, but I'd rather avoid having a ride spoiled by running the "wrong" chain (assuming I can't tell from a car park spin of course).


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I was skeptical at first also. I actually first saw it on Wolf Tooth's site saying to run a 10sp chain on a 9sp drivetrain.

I ran a 9 speed chain with my 9sp drivetrain...and the chain would always drop off my Race Face 30T when I'm in the high gears. When the terrain got rough enough...the chain would come off.

Switching to 10sp required me to get a 10sp chain. After that...the chain drops stopped.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

9 speed chain is much wider inside than 10 or 11spd one.
Actually 10&11spd chains are same width internally, but 9spd one is much wider.

Teeth in our chainrings are designed for 10&11spd chain. So if you want to keep perfect retention of the chain, 10spd chain must be used on 9spd cassette.

Now the good part - because 10spd chains are narrower and made from stronger materials(as technology progresses every year) 10spd chain actually works a LOT better, more quiet and does allow for better mud clearance between cogs in cassette. 
From the reasons above you should use 10spd chain. It's not the oval which require that chain but teeth profiling to retain the chain properly. So all our chainrings, round or oval require 10spd chain if you want to use it in 1x9. 
So trust me on this one. You do want to get 10spd chain in this case.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Thanks for the feedback. As it turns out my dodgy old chain tool mangled my 9 speed chain when trying to put it on last night anyway so have no option but to fit the spare 10 speed in my box!


----------



## ECR (Sep 25, 2013)

tehan said:


> Moment many of you have been waiting for. RaceFace Cinch Oval rings are here!
> *32T oval for the start with 30 and 34T coming in few more weeks.*


1. What's the status on RaceFace Cinch 34T?

2. Any plans for RaceFace Cinch 36T?


----------



## K4m1k4z3 (Jan 5, 2007)

Hi, I just wanted to ask tehan whether you guys at AB have already looked into the XTR M9000 and XT M8000 cranks? Are you going to make Oval chainrings for those cranks too? What's the smallest tooth count achievable on that awkward road-like spider? Thanks! ^_^


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

plan to order one of these - struggling with "which size" - currently in front range of Colorado and ride everything both up and down. As a bit older guy - 48 - i run a 1x10 and currently a 28t front on my Norco Sight C. trying to decide if a 30t will be too much or a 28t will be just right - making the tech feature up easier and less likely to gas me? Any feedback greatly appreciated.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

K4m1k4z3 said:


> Hi, I just wanted to ask tehan whether you guys at AB have already looked into the XTR M9000 and XT M8000 cranks? Are you going to make Oval chainrings for those cranks too? What's the smallest tooth count achievable on that awkward road-like spider? Thanks! ^_^


+1! Got my eye on M8000 for my new build but no oval options out there right now.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

try 28T first and work your way to bigger ovals once you find that 28T oval is too easy for you.

We already do 28T in 64bcd and will have sram directmount oval in same size in 2 weeks on website.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

No ovals as there are no cranks yet

XT 8000 will be available around July and we will have ovals for that on time.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

tehan said:


> No ovals as there are no cranks yet
> 
> XT 8000 will be available around July and we will have ovals for that on time.


Do you think 30T oval will work on the BCD of the M8000 & 9000 crank?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

we just started production of 94bcd ovals (also 30T) and by looking at it and at new XT asymmetrical 96bcd it may be possible. But to find out for sure I would need to draw it as there is actually very little room left.


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

*Absolutely Impressed....*

Installed AB oval SRAM Direct Mount 32t yesterday. Even though the chain pulsates coming and leaving the chainring on the bike stand....riding with it feels natural, almost immediately. My cadence is smoother and less "forced." I feel like every full rotation of the cranks has more thrust and sustainable momentum - pure gold, climbing the techy steeps. I cannot get over how eerily dead-silent the AB oval is, combined with the XX1 drivetrain now. No chain slap, no chain drop, no chain suck....no nada, you'd think it's belt drive.

I like the way Tehan has default-clocked this ring. Coming from radical Rotor Agilis Q-Rings and even a Doval double-oval(meh)....I find the meticulously crafted Absolute Black oval a climber's best friend now.

Bravo, AB!:thumbsup:


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Zachariah said:


> Even though the chain pulsates coming and leaving the chainring on the bike stand....riding with it feels natural, almost immediately.


New chain?


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

NordieBoy said:


> New chain?


Yes, everything is new.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Zachariah said:


> Yes, everything is new.


One thing I can say about my 32 tooth Sram xx1 Oval from AB it sure is lasting a lot longer than the stock XX1 ring. Also saving over 40g of weight, love it!!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

NordieBoy said:


> New chain?


I think Zach is referring to the chain going up and down when you pedal - this is due to the oval ring characteristic - it's not round
Chain meshes perfectly with a chainring and is incredibly quiet if you pair it with new chain. 
I will show you in few days a video how it works on SS and how to set all up. It's extremely simple.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes, our rings last on average 3x longer than stock Sram ones.

Sram stamps their chainrings from rather soft aluminium(as stamping process requires it). Then cnc only the "silver" cosmetic bits you see on the ring, so they can say it is cnc'ed. Softer material also requires more volume to stand given forces,therefore by default they will be heavier than anything that is fully cnc'ed from harder alloy.

We fully cnc our rings out from the hardest alloy you can commercially obtain and then treat it further. 

Then there is a design of teeth itself, but that is a very long topic on it's own.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Anyone know how to orientate the 28t 64 BCD ring on the spider, it doesn't seem to have the small triangle marking that the other rings have to align it.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Tenacious Doug said:


> Anyone know how to orientate the 28t 64 BCD ring on the spider, it doesn't seem to have the small triangle marking that the other rings have to align it.


In 28T oval there is a dimple instead of the triangle mark. That dimple must align with the crank arm and Must be visible to you when mounting the chainring (recesses on the mounting holes face the crank tabs)


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Got it. I thought that might be it but couldn't find confirmation on the website, only a mention of the triangle.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

just added that info on the website. I forgot about it so many thanks for asking!


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

tehan said:


> I think Zach is referring to the chain going up and down when you pedal - this is due to the oval ring characteristic - it's not round
> Chain meshes perfectly with a chainring and is incredibly quiet if you pair it with new chain.
> I will show you in few days a video how it works on SS and how to set all up. It's extremely simple.


Ahh, I get pulsing when you spin the cranks on the stand as each link hits/leaves the rear cog. Not noticeable when riding.
Once the chain/sprockets bed in, it's much better.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

this should not happen. chain should mesh ideally on the chainring and cog.
If it does not then or you have new chain+chainring but old cog or if everything is new then there is a chain issue. There was one such example of incorrect pitch of the chain some few pages ago in this thread. So if this causes some problems just change chain and it will be dead quiet.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Cheap pressed cog, not really designed for a 9 speed chain...


----------



## jp08865 (Aug 12, 2014)

Finally got some time on the bike to give my impressions of the AB NW 32T Oval Chainring. 
1st Test ride, surprisingly, didn't feel any difference at all just rolling around the neighborhood. 
On the trail I really like the AB NW Oval Chainring ! I notice areas where I had to shift in the past (just before cresting a climb) I now can just power over it, saving a downshift and immediate upshift after cresting. 
Overall, I seem to be riding with a lot less shifting :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

*Very Nice Product*, _I will purchase again when needed !_


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

tehan said:


> this should not happen. chain should mesh ideally on the chainring and cog.
> If it does not then or you have new chain+chainring but old cog or if everything is new then there is a chain issue. There was one such example of incorrect pitch of the chain some few pages ago in this thread. So if this causes some problems just change chain and it will be dead quiet.


He is correct. Start with new everything and there will be ZERO noise....


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Pre-ordered my BB30 oval :thumbsup:


----------



## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

I haven't read all the pages on this thread so if I am just repeating what was said earlier I apologize. Just got an Absolute Black 30t Sram gxp oval last week, its replacing a 28t I had on a xo1 setup. I got about 3 rides on it and this is my impression so far;

In the parking lot it feels like a 32t. There is pulsing at first but after 3 miles I stopped noticing it. On a 20% tech climb the ring feels like a 30t to me but the power deliver is definitely smoother making the seated climb easier. Easier than a round 28t? no, but easier than a round 30t. 

Last year I got my first bike with a front and rear lockout since 2006 and I love it. Makes out of saddle climbing 10-15% grades so much better. I feel like the lockout makes coming over the top of the crank much easier and the power goes straight to the rear wheel. And that is the only ***** in the armor I can find to these oval rings. With round rings, locked out, and standing as I come over the top I am applying max power at 1 o'clock all the way through to 6 o'clock. With the ovals I don't feel the power come on till the 3 o'clock position and ends at 6 so not as much acceleration is going on. Maybe with a more aggressive timing it would feel better out of the saddle but I wonder if seated climbing would suffer.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Ratt said:


> With round rings, locked out, and standing as I come over the top I am applying max power at 1 o'clock all the way through to 6 o'clock. With the ovals I don't feel the power come on till the 3 o'clock position and ends at 6 so not as much acceleration is going on. Maybe with a more aggressive timing it would feel better out of the saddle but I wonder if seated climbing would suffer.


I prefer it for out of the saddle climbing compared to round rings.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Thanks for interesting observation Ratt,
However you can't generate much power from 1-3 o'clock as biomechanics of your body does not allow you for it. Yes you felt resistance with round rings in this section but you were not generating much power in that section of the stroke. In fact you were wasting your energy to overcome resistance to get to 3 o'clock position. 
With oval rings you can't feel that resistance because you are pedaling a Cam in that section - which gradually builds resistance. That means you cover that section quicker with less effort. BUT this does not mean you don't accelerate. In fact cam is designed in such a way where when you pass 2 o.clock you already use "equivalent" of 30T round ring. It's more complicated than that and I don't want to give away too much (competition) here on forum.

Second thing. More aggressive position would mean that the peak of resistance would come even later than it is now. That is in most cases not good for most people. This is why we have our propriety clocking which is really comfortable for everyone.

3 Rides is still nothing I bet that around a month you will actually figure out you are going much faster on these uphills than before, even when you think that you don't apply that much input to your pedals.

Ovals are ENTIRELY different in feeling to your muscles, so trust me: even if you don't feel that you push hard, you actually ARE.

Humans can't push from 1-6 o'clock with constant force. Here is L.Armstrong's pedaling power out put. I think it does not need any commentary.


----------



## pyro_ (Jul 2, 2012)

Wondering if you have any plans for 36t race face?


----------



## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

I'm 'absolutely' happy with the 32t AB oval on my 29er hardtail (104 BCD narrow-wide 1x10)

But I just got a new Full-Susp with a different BCD (94)
"1x11 X01: Custom SRAM S-2200, carbon, PF30 spindle, 30T, 94mm BCD spider"

Did I see a mention that you are working on 94mm BCD now?
Any update on when I might be able to get a 32t 94BCD for my new bike?

Many thanks!


----------



## gripper35 (Oct 11, 2013)

gripper35 said:


> I'm 'absolutely' happy with the 32t AB oval on my 29er hardtail (104 BCD narrow-wide 1x10)
> 
> But I just got a new Full-Susp with a different BCD (94)
> "1x11 X01: Custom SRAM S-2200, carbon, PF30 spindle, 30T, 94mm BCD spider"
> ...


Oops... now I see on your site that you're starting sales on June 12.
Great.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

OVAL 94BCD

We just started production of 30/32/34T so will have it shortly. Once in anodizing we will start taking orders so this should be actually before june 12th.

Same goes to 96bcd xtr rings. Just not yet visible on website.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

tehan said:


> OVAL 94BCD
> 
> Same goes to 96bcd xtr rings. Just not yet visible on website.


What size will the 96BCD oval rings be available in?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

30/32/34 and then 36 at some point.


----------



## pyro_ (Jul 2, 2012)

Any chance of 36t race face sometime in the near future?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes, but this size is less popular so does not have priority. But we will get there


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

tehan said:


> 30/32/34 and then 36 at some point.


30T, perfect. After playing with a 28 & 32 104 BCD I think 30s my perfect choice, but want to run new Shimano cranks so great news!


----------



## Burto (Mar 10, 2012)

I would like to try one of these oval rings. I would need a 30T for a 104 BCD older XTR crankset. Any chance you are going to make one in the next month or so?


----------



## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

I'm planning to get a 30T chainring (now I'm on an round AB 32T) for a competition with a lot of climbing (around 4700 meters) and I'n not sure if I should go this time with a round one also or try the oval one, because from what I understand it takes some time to get used with an oval one, and I will not have this time, maybe max 1-2 weeks.
What would be the recommendations ?


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

muntos said:


> from what I understand it takes some time to get used with an oval one


10 minutes!


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Burto said:


> I would like to try one of these oval rings. I would need a 30T for a 104 BCD older XTR crankset. Any chance you are going to make one in the next month or so?


I don't think a 30T oval will fit on 104BCD.


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Tenacious Doug said:


> 10 minutes!


Agreed.


----------



## tadmcmichael (Mar 19, 2012)

Felt very comfortable on mine by the third ride.


----------



## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

tadmcmichael said:


> Felt very comfortable on mine by the third ride.





Tenacious Doug said:


> 10 minutes!


Ok, thanks for the feedback, I have another question, probably it was already put and answered, but if there are so many advantages of an oval chainring over a round one, how come that I don't see any (or it might be but are a few) riders in world tours (for example Giro d'Italia or Tour of California since they are in progress these days) riding with oval ones ?


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I think there are a few reasons:

(1) Biopace tainted everyone's perception.
(2) There's not much information out there based on good scientific data.
(3) Round rings are everywhere.
(4) Sponsors.

I'm sure there are more. I haven't decided yet if the advantages I feel are just that - perception - or if they are real. At the end of the day it doesn't matter. If I feel better about my gear I will perform better.


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

muntos said:


> Ok, thanks for the feedback, I have another question, probably it was already put and answered, but if there are so many advantages of an oval chainring over a round one, how come that I don't see any (or it might be but are a few) riders in world tours (for example Giro d'Italia or Tour of California since they are in progress these days) riding with oval ones ?


I think there's probably some out there, but it's hard to notice. Also, I don't really follow road racing, but... Aren't most of these guys running 3x and 2x cranks? It gets more complicated trying to get proper shifting in the front with ovals. Rotor has ovals for 3x though...
One thing I've noticed from my AB oval is that it does not help that much when it's smooth and even pedaling, where it shines for me is on technical, slow pace climbs, quick burst of acceleration type stuff. 
These top road races don't do that kind of pedaling that often, right? It's mostly smooth cadence over long periods of time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

fefillo said:


> One thing I've noticed from my AB oval is that it does not help mule much when it's smooth and even pedaling, where it shines for me is on technical, slow pace climbs, quick burst of acceleration type stuff.


I agree, this matches my observations perfectly.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

muntos said:


> I'm planning to get a 30T chainring (now I'm on an round AB 32T) for a competition with a lot of climbing (around 4700 meters) and I'n not sure if I should go this time with a round one also or try the oval one, because from what I understand it takes some time to get used with an oval one, and I will not have this time, maybe max 1-2 weeks.
> What would be the recommendations ?


Feel may take a few minutes...but muscle adaptation will take a few rides. If you have a competition in a couple weeks, I would try a put as much time as you can on them.

My first experience with oval is with the Q-Rings on my road bike. Initially my quads felt more load on them. I would ride the same miles on the same route along with the same cadence.


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

^It took me less than 9 minutes to get accustomed to AB oval. My quads now thank me...


----------



## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

Thanks for your answers, I was thinking more of the muscle adaptation than on pedaling style, I've read that pedaling an oval ring will involve other muscles groups (or maybe not others but same in different percentage) so if I want to produce a good performance on that race would be wise to go with the oval one only after couple of rides before ?


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I remember something about two weeks for your muscles to adapt. 

I don't think it involves different groups...but it loads them differently. You should be able to tell after a couple rides on how it affects you.

My legs were feeling more "tired" than usual in the first few rides.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Is anyone successfully running these with a chain guide? I'd prefer to run one for extra security, especially when racing but I'm unsure how well it will work. Because the ovality on any ring runs +-2 teeth to the actual size, it might be difficult to have the top guide cover the chain at all points of the revolution.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We have some customers running chainguides with our oval rings with success. You can find some photos on instagram #absoluteblack

We are actually making now our own which should be ready in about 5 weeks that will fit to our ovals perfectly.

Marcin

P.S
You actually do not need a chain guide as our chainring hold the chain perfectly well. But some of you still want to have that additional reassurance or just for "peace of mind". This is why we will offer chainguide soon, so you don't have to wonder if it will work with the ring or not..


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

tehan said:


> We have some customers running chainguides with our oval rings with success. You can find some photos on instagram #absoluteblack
> 
> We are actually making now our own which should be ready in about 5 weeks that will fit to our ovals perfectly.
> 
> ...


When are you making the Oval rings in red? Sram XX1 GXP.


----------



## fefillo (Jul 24, 2014)

dgw7000 said:


> When are you making the Oval rings in red? Sram XX1 GXP.


Red too here!
Really liking my AB 36t 104bcd, but may go with Wolftooth when it comes time to replace if they have theirs in red.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We will have Red ovals in about 2-3 weeks on website. There is a lot in anodizing already.

In the meantime. You can read this excellent article from Pinkbike about our oval rings.

Absolute Black Oval Chainring for Race Face Cinch Cranksets - Review - Pinkbike

There is a lot of talking about our clocking position that reviewer liked a lot.


----------



## ercoyote (Jun 3, 2015)

Good afternoon,
I have a specialized STUMPJUMPER ELITE CARBON WORLD CUP 2015.
Is Sram 94BCD 32T Oval chainrings designed for SRAM X1 1000 X-SYNC™ Crankset BB30 BCD 94? 
thanks very much


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

dledinger said:


> I think there are a few reasons:
> 
> (1) Biopace tainted everyone's perception.
> (2) There's not much information out there based on good scientific data.
> ...


(5) The pro peloton hates change, see the resistance to road disc brakes, it's shocking.

I have the AB 32-tooth and freaking love it. I expected it to feel weird when I first rode it...it didn't. It took about 1-2 pedal strokes and then I forgot about it. The only downside I've found is with the narrow-wide chain ring idea in general. The tooth profile is more sensitive to mud, it doesn't take much mud or grit on your chain before it won't sit down on the teeth anymore and then it comes off with the next pedal stroke.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes it will fit with no problem. 
Any crank that has 94bcd will work with our 94bcd oval rings.

Marcin


----------



## Biased Opinion (May 17, 2014)

Been rolling on a crc 34t, liking it but i have a feeling i will notice it more running clips vs the flats that i have on it now. Will be testing that in the next few weeks. What i would love though is something that tops out at around a 40t maybe. I have a feeling the CX guys would love something geared a bit higher but I want it for a BMX, narrow wide does not matter much for that but the elliptical might give me a bit more of a snap on the gate.


----------



## NotgnihsaW (Jun 22, 2015)

Hey I just wanted to know if I could use an absolute black chainring with a 1x8 setup and eventually buy a bigger cassette. I just recently broke my chainring and have been researching on what I should do next.


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

NotgnihsaW said:


> Hey I just wanted to know if I could use an absolute black chainring with a 1x8 setup and eventually buy a bigger cassette. I just recently broke my chainring and have been researching on what I should do next.


Can run 1x8-11 just fine.


----------



## NotgnihsaW (Jun 22, 2015)

rideorange525 said:


> Can run 1x8-11 just fine.


Should I run my same chain or get a new one and if I do what speed chain should I get?


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Ordered one (June 16th)...can't wait to give it a try.


----------



## Barman1 (Jan 8, 2014)

I've been running a 32t oval on my Superlight 29 for a couple of weeks and it has improved my rocky and rooty climbs significantly. 
Switched to my Highball carbon this weekend with a round ring with similar gearing and found I was stalling on the same climbs at the top of my pedal stroke, just like I used to.
I'm convinced. :thumbsup:


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

NotgnihsaW said:


> Should I run my same chain or get a new one and if I do what speed chain should I get?


Depends on how worn your chain is. If it's still got good life then just run it, if it's worn a little replace the chain, if it's worn a lot you'll want to replace chain and cassette.

Links are 1/2", so measure 12 inches of chain. Measure from center of pin to center of pin. If you're measurement is 1/16"-1/8" over 12" then you for sure need to replace all, if between 12" and 12 1/16" replacing just chain should be ok.


----------



## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Are there any plans to add a 38 tooth 104bcd oval ring?


----------



## NotgnihsaW (Jun 22, 2015)

rideorange525 said:


> Depends on how worn your chain is. If it's still got good life then just run it, if it's worn a little replace the chain, if it's worn a lot you'll want to replace chain and cassette.
> 
> Links are 1/2", so measure 12 inches of chain. Measure from center of pin to center of pin. If you're measurement is 1/16"-1/8" over 12" then you for sure need to replace all, if between 12" and 12 1/16" replacing just chain should be ok.


If it is worn what speed chain should I use?


----------



## wedge962005 (Mar 11, 2011)

I know this has been brought up and I've also sent an email about this but I'd really like some information about a possible oval version of your xx1 Cannondale rings? I really want to try your oval rings but I run SISL cranks so the interface on the direct mount is very attractive. Making things worse, I thought I'd just grab another oval ring from you but the spider isn't compatible (76mm BCD) with any of your existing designs. I'm on a team with a bunch of people on Jekylls with the Cannondale cranks. This has got to be a good market for you guys and I just want to know if there are plans to do this and if so, roughly when.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

we will do it in less than 2 months. There is so many products to launch now that we need to pace ourselves. We will do it as quickly as possible. It's coming.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

If you want excellent chain retention with your 8spd cassette you need to use 10spd chain.
But to be fair we did not try if 10spd chain will work with 8spd casette. In teory it should with no problem, but I did not check it as almost no one uses 8 these days.


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

NotgnihsaW said:


> If it is worn what speed chain should I use?


The best chain retention on front would be a 10 speed chain, but if I remember correctly 8 speed cogs are much thicker than 9, 10, 11 speed cogs, so I'm not sure the narrower chain will fit on the 8 spd cog. 9, 10 and 11 are all much closer in thickness and mostly just less room in between.


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

What's the average wait time to receive a ring in the US once ordered if the ring was marked in stock?


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

Mine took just over a week.


----------



## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Nubster said:


> What's the average wait time to receive a ring in the US once ordered if the ring was marked in stock?


 Took 12 days for mine


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

I ordered a second on from Outside Outfitters in the US and they are super slow shippers, took longer from them than from the UK.


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

bcriverjunky said:


> Took 12 days for mine


I'm at 12 days today so hopefully it'll be here this week.


----------



## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

Nubster said:


> I'm at 12 days today so hopefully it'll be here this week.


It's going to need a signature. Otherwise you'll have to go pick it up at the PO


----------



## rideorange525 (Apr 1, 2013)

Mine did not need signature nor did it have any import fees like things I've ordered from Chain Reaction in the UK. Chain ring actually shipped from Poland.


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

bcriverjunky said:


> It's going to need a signature. Otherwise you'll have to go pick it up at the PO


That's fine if it does. I work nights so I'm home most of the day and 99% of the time when the deliver people come.


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Arrived today and I did have to sign for it.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

i pulled the trigger on an oval 104 32t. ordered via absoluteblack.cc site - US option since it will be shipped to Woodside, NY.

any ideas on ETA? do they send tracking? (@tehan)


----------



## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

I bought mine from a US eBay seller, for a few dollars more. I got mine in 3 days, with tracking. So worth it....


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

I emailed asking for a status and got a quick reply with tracking number when I ordered mine.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

mabrodis said:


> I emailed asking for a status and got a quick reply with tracking number when I ordered mine.


I ordered mine this time from my local shop and it took 4 days, no shipping charge !!


----------



## Jamesjohn85 (Jul 11, 2015)

Ordered mine from fair wheel bikes yesterday. Suppose have it Wednesday or Thursday. Paid like 70 shipped


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

spyghost said:


> i pulled the trigger on an oval 104 32t. ordered via absoluteblack.cc site - US option since it will be shipped to Woodside, NY.
> 
> any ideas on ETA? do they send tracking? (@tehan)


Yes you get tracking. ETA to US is about 4-8 days dependent where you are exactly and if customs scan it for "random check". Parcels always get to NY in less than 3 days. Then it's up to US customs scanning. Once pass it only takes 1 more day for delivery by USPS. 
Many will get it in less than 5 days.


----------



## pilGrimHK (Nov 2, 2014)

Hi Tehan,

Any chance you will have an oval chain-ring for the new 2015 XTR M9000 crankset soon?

The darn 96mm proprietary bolt pattern has really limited the options for those that purchased the crankset.

Keeping my fingers crossed!!


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

tehan said:


> Yes you get tracking. ETA to US is about 4-8 days dependent where you are exactly and if customs scan it for "random check". Parcels always get to NY in less than 3 days. Then it's up to US customs scanning. Once pass it only takes 1 more day for delivery by USPS.
> Many will get it in less than 5 days.


so there will be 2 couriers involved? once it has landed to US soil, USPS will transit the parcel? how will i get the tracking for this one?


----------



## Jamesjohn85 (Jul 11, 2015)

Got mine in 2 days from FairWheel Bikes


----------



## Nubster (May 15, 2009)




----------



## Horrorshow (Jul 10, 2015)

*Quick Question!*

If I'm going from 2x10 to 1x10 and considering the Oval 104 32T... do I need a bash guard or is that optional or recommended or simply preference? Also, do I need a new chain or need to remove a couple links?

Trek Superfly 5:
Crank: Race Face Ride 36/22 
Chain: KMC X10
RD: Shimano Deore XT
Shifters: Shimano Deore 10sp

I've been reading up on this conversion, but since I'm new to it I want to double check. (I ride trails in the Midwest, not crazy technical)

Thanks!!


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Only a bash guard if you normally run one.
New chain is safest unless your old one is only a few months old.


----------



## Horrorshow (Jul 10, 2015)

NordieBoy said:


> Only a bash guard if you normally run one.
> New chain is safest unless your old one is only a few months old.


Okay cool, thanks. Will I want to keep the same chain length?


----------



## Jamesjohn85 (Jul 11, 2015)

Anyone regret going oval?


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Horrorshow said:


> Okay cool, thanks. Will I want to keep the same chain length?


Yep. Shorten the old chain and get the length sorted with that one and then get a new chain setup to the same length.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Jamesjohn85 said:


> Anyone regret going oval?


I regret not getting more of them...


----------



## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

I bought one and liked it enough to buy another. Probably about 30 hours of riding time on them now, and no regrets. 

I have a new bike arriving tomorrow (if UPS follows through...) and it will get an oval ring as soon as I decide how many teeth I want for it.


----------



## Jamesjohn85 (Jul 11, 2015)

Thanks guys. I had to overnight a rear derailur so hopefully I can ride Saturday morning and test it out. Hope the 32t is enough


----------



## Metamorphic (Apr 29, 2011)

Just replaced a 32 sram with a 30 AbsoluteBlack. 

First off...saved 80grams by going direct instead of the 4-bold spider. Not life changing by itself, but keeping a bike light is dozens of baby steps. 

I noticed 3 things. 
1) It made my spin feel cleaner than it actually is. 
2) My mash was less mash'ier.
3) When I was peddling up something steep where I was working at the limits of rear tire traction, the tendency to loose traction during the most powerful part of the pedal stroke was minimized. 

Overall I'm very happy and plan on buying a couple more for my son's bike and to have a range of gearing to work with.


----------



## ASiameseCat (Aug 21, 2011)

Here is my 32t direct mount ring on a X9 GXP crank with MRP guide (I don't have a clutched derailleur yet.) First test rides around the yard feel pretty good so far .


----------



## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> I regret not getting more of them...


Me too. I wish I had one on every bike I own. If I weren't wrapped around getting a 10T rear cog right now, I'd probably be ordering more.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

spyghost said:


> so there will be 2 couriers involved? once it has landed to US soil, USPS will transit the parcel? how will i get the tracking for this one?


it'sa same tracking number. Dont worry


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

ASiameseCat said:


> Here is my 32t direct mount ring on a X9 GXP crank with MRP guide (I don't have a clutched derailleur yet.) First test rides around the yard feel pretty good so far .
> 
> View attachment 1002890


We will have a prettier solution to that MRP guide in few weeks. In about 3 weeks we will also have a taco for ISCG5 for those who wish to have some bash protection for the ring.


----------



## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

No reason the 36T direct mount can't work on new 1x11 SRAM Force 1 GXP cranks, right?

Also, any ETA for a 36T oval for GXP direct mount?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Couloirman said:


> No reason the 36T direct mount can't work on new 1x11 SRAM Force 1 GXP cranks, right?
> 
> Also, any ETA for a 36T oval for GXP direct mount?


It will work with no problem.

We will have soon 38T oval for Sram cranks like Force 1, Force 22 and other models. Basically these cranks have exact same mounting interface as mtb versions. Chainline with our standard offset will give about 45mm which is great for a CX/Road bike.

we will have a lot more new products soon.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

As we speak about new products: 
Many people asked us about this one so here it is.

New taco is coming for everyone who want some bash protection on direct mount or regular chainrings,but don't like regular bashguard. This will work with all of our oval and round chainrings as long as you have ISCG5 mount in the frame.

ETA - we should have them in stock by Eurobike which is in month time. Chain catchers also coming for those who want that little extra piece of mind.

They are not visible on website yet.


----------



## muntos (Jul 28, 2013)

But what about those TI rotors ?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

tehan said:


> As we speak about new products:
> Many people asked us about this one so here it is.
> 
> New taco is coming for everyone who want some bash protection on direct mount or regular chainrings,but don't like regular bashguard. This will work with all of our oval and round chainrings as long *as you have ISCG5 mount in the frame*.
> ...


are you going to create a bb version?


----------



## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

tehan said:


> As we speak about new products:
> Many people asked us about this one so here it is.
> 
> New taco is coming for everyone who want some bash protection on direct mount or regular chainrings,but don't like regular bashguard. This will work with all of our oval and round chainrings as long as you have ISCG5 mount in the frame.
> ...


dude that is very slick, can't wait to see the chainguide also. I know ill be snatchin those up. Currently lovin my SS cog. I dont know if this is even possible, but is it possible to create a 50mm. or 51mm. Sram GXP spiderless chainring that has the pattern that your Sram spiderless bb30 has??? That is the most beautiful bike component ive ever seen but I just dont see it being possible. =(


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Got an oval chainring for XT m8000?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Radioinactive said:


> dude that is very slick, can't wait to see the chainguide also. I know ill be snatchin those up. Currently lovin my SS cog. I dont know if this is even possible, but is it possible to create a 50mm. or 51mm. Sram GXP spiderless chainring that has the pattern that your Sram spiderless bb30 has??? That is the most beautiful bike component ive ever seen but I just dont see it being possible. =(


unfortunately our bb30 ring design is not possible with offset. I mean it is but it would require a lot more cnc work and will be heavier. So we did different designs for both.

But if you have a bb30 in your frame then you can source short spindle crank and then use the ring you want.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

sandwich said:


> Got an oval chainring for XT m8000?


we are just preparing production for it. So yes they will be available for XTR and XT separately in oval of course. In few weeks time you will see them on offer.


----------



## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Any 38 tooth 104 bcd in the works?


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

tbh, i didn't feel anything different coming from a 30t round to 32t oval. 'but' that was on flat pavement.

the realization that there was indeed a change sank in when i did climbs. even though i moved up 2 teeth, it felt lighter than my former 30t round. (of course i compared with the same cassette gear)

there is one segment here where i can now boost without standing. this time it felt i can do some 'oomph' without having to stand. in effect less energy required (subjectively).

i didnt record that run in strava since it was just a quick 1.5 hour test around the uphills around the block. ill record next time


----------



## ASiameseCat (Aug 21, 2011)

tehan said:


> We will have a prettier solution to that MRP guide in few weeks. In about 3 weeks we will also have a taco for ISCG5 for those who wish to have some bash protection for the ring.


Make a BB option and I will think about it.


----------



## adictionbass (Apr 13, 2008)

A little confused on which to order. I have xx1 cranks with a measured 23.88mm spindle so should be GXP, however, it seems like I have a short spindle based off the picture on the bottom of the AB website. I don't have a BB tool to pull that at the moment. Any input?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

you have GXP axle. So there is only one length. Pick GXP option.

axle length instruction is for BB30 axles.



adictionbass said:


> A little confused on which to order. I have xx1 cranks with a measured 23.88mm spindle so should be GXP, however, it seems like I have a short spindle based off the picture on the bottom of the AB website. I don't have a BB tool to pull that at the moment. Any input?
> 
> View attachment 1004573


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

spyghost said:


> tbh, i didn't feel anything different coming from a 30t round to 32t oval. 'but' that was on flat pavement.
> 
> the realization that there was indeed a change sank in when i did climbs. even though i moved up 2 teeth, it felt lighter than my former 30t round. (of course i compared with the same cassette gear)
> 
> ...


Thanks for feedback. This is what we have been talking from long time. On flats you will not feel any difference as your leg moves through dead spot fairly quickly and with not much effort. 
Where the oval shine are uphills. There you can see a big difference and this is all about them. You need advantage to climb better, not when you cruise on the flat.

This is also why Ovals in many studies do not show much of an advantage.... because all those Universities always pick to test a flat piece of road and do the sprints which is ridiculous.

This is also why we wrote it is unfair advantage. When you ride on flat and ride in the group it is really difficult to break away as everyone can push on the flat relatively good. On downhill only very good skills can give you some time advantage, but time difference is not dramatic often. 
The true difference is in the uphill. Everyone ride against their own body mass. This is where you can make biggest time gap between riders. And this is where you gain with ovals even more time


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I just got one of your oval DM rings for SRAM, BTI part number AI-4145. Can you tell me what the chainline is supposed to be for these? They have considerably less dish to them than our (MRP) chainrings? Mounted up, the ring looks really far outboard? Did I somehow get one intended for Boost 148? Beautiful machining, BTW.


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

My new XT cranks just landed at my LBS, hoping that M8000 ring is just around the corner so I can get them fitted!


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

tehan said:


> Thanks for feedback. This is what we have been talking from long time. On flats you will not feel any difference as your leg moves through dead spot fairly quickly and with not much effort.
> Where the oval shine are uphills. There you can see a big difference and this is all about them. You need advantage to climb better, not when you cruise on the flat.
> 
> This is also why Ovals in many studies do not show much of an advantage.... because all those Universities always pick to test a flat piece of road and do the sprints which is ridiculous.
> ...


any plans on producing ovals that use a front mech? not that i'll be using one for an mtb, but just curious specially for road/cx bikes.


----------



## Jamesjohn85 (Jul 11, 2015)

Made 2 rides with my oval 32t on my bike. Wish I would of done it sooner!!


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Well, just ordered a 32 for my full sus Kona which is a heavy bike, close to 30#. Currently using a 32 NW chainring with expanded cassette, 11-42 One-Up
I do the uphills ok but if the pedal stroke can be smoother and help me go a bit faster it would make a big difference for me. Can't wait to check it out.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

I went with a 30t and an 11-40 m8000 cassette. Should give me a solid low range gear, but not sure what to expect from the ovality combined with the 40t. We'll see!


----------



## Tenacious Doug (Sep 30, 2005)

Tehan. I know many people have already asked, but any update on the M8000 compatible rings. These cranks are available now and I have had mine for a week now but can't fit them as I don't have a chainring. I'm tempted by the new One Up rings which are available now but I'd prefer to get Absolute Black if possible as I'm really impressed by the one on my hardtail


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Tenacious Doug said:


> Tehan. I know many people have already asked, but any update on the M8000 compatible rings. These cranks are available now and I have had mine for a week now but can't fit them as I don't have a chainring. I'm tempted by the new One Up rings which are available now but I'd prefer to get Absolute Black if possible as I'm really impressed by the one on my hardtail


2-3 weeks and they will be on the website.
We are doing them differently a bit and this is why it took a slightly bit longer than competition. Same goes for XTR rings. All of them are already in production.

Marcin


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

this is how they are going to look like. We wanted to have a great match with the new cranks so they have a bit different styling to our other offerings. 

In black first and then few more colors.


----------



## Henrik J (Apr 15, 2011)

Hi Tehan

Me and a couple of my fellow riders use the 32T oval chainring. We live in Denmark were the rain offen brings mud. And sometimes the mud can be quite "thick". We have all have problems with the chain dropping of the chainring when we hit the thick mud and we ride in the 2-3 lowest gear (we have the XX1 setup). Is it something you have received feedback on earlier and maybe have a solution for ??


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Henrik J said:


> Hi Tehan
> 
> Me and a couple of my fellow riders use the 32T oval chainring. We live in Denmark were the rain offen brings mud. And sometimes the mud can be quite "thick". We have all have problems with the chain dropping of the chainring when we hit the thick mud and we ride in the 2-3 lowest gear (we have the XX1 setup). Is it something you have received feedback on earlier and maybe have a solution for ??


Hi Henrik,
This is a normal behavior and will affect any chainring on the market in very thick mud. If you ride in absolutely thick mud (clay) you basically clog the chain and the chainring. There is no remedy for that as chain can't clean itself quick enough and chainring can't push mud that sticks to everything like glue.

If there is a mud and water then all is good as water is like lubricant in this situation and will help shift the mud off. But if there is only sticky mud then it will clog everything on your bike - not only the chainring.

We have here in UK one of the worst muddy conditions in the winter and have been testing our chainrings for years now with excellent results. But for thick clay there is no remedy and rest of your bike like rear mech, pulleys, frame will collect a lot of it as well.

My only recommendation is that if you absolutely need to ride in such bad mud then avoid using last 3 biggest cogs. The bigger the cog the more chain wrap = more mud. Smaller rings clean itself quicker as there is more pressure per tooth of the cog so mud is squeezed quicker.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We have a quite exciting game for you that we start this week and continue to do every week from now on! Just send us your photos of your AB oval ring on the bike.

Every week we pick our favorite customer shots, If we choose yours we'll send you a GIFT CARD!

Just post them on our Facebook timeline or tag ‪#‎absoluteblack‬ and ‪#‎ovalthis‬ on Instagram! and we will look for them.

www.facebook.com/absoluteblack.cc

www.instagram.com/absoluteblack.cc to participate


----------



## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

Here are a few thoughts on Absolute oval.
First, I would definitely recommend to do an even swap chainring size with your current round ring. I was running a 30t round and a ways back I went with a 32t oval because at the time no other sizes were available. While I loved things about it, the 32t was just a little too much gear for me over the long haul. Now that I'm back on the Oval in the proper 30t size I am much happier with the over-all performance. 
I log a lot of long miles, with lots of long climbs and I feel noticeably less fatigued. I feel like I always have that little extra left in reserve I can tap into to power up the final part of a long climb. I really believe that the shape of the chainring allows for a better "resting phase" in your pedal stroke, lessening fatigue. I have a pretty smooth pedal stroke to begin with, and the oval didn't "mess" with this in anyway. The feeling is slightly different, but I seem to be more effective.
Standing climbing is a whole other kettle of fish with the oval. I feel like it requires so much less effort. Like it really affords me an opportunity to rest my legs. Just awesome.
Technical climbing, as others have noted, is improved as the ability to maintain traction is increased, and punching and surging your way up rocky climbs is effective.
I thought there might be some weirdness accelerating out of corners, but I have not noticed anything. In fact other than a few initial timing quirks at really slow speed riding (which have since gone away) I have not noticed any weird traits with the oval. 
I've slid my saddle up a little bit on its rails since installing the oval. It just felt better for whatever reason. 
And finally the one thing I've noticed is that on my Specialized Enduro 29er I always, always had some chain slippage/skipping/crunching in the lower two cogs of my XX1 cassette when I really laid down the torque/power. Despite qualified mechanics making adjustments, new cassette, new chain, it was always there, and I hated it. Since putting on the AB OVAL it is 100% gone. Love it.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

ok, just got my AB 32t from CRC and they are indeed beautifully machined, clearly not stamped. The envelope they came in talks about a small mark (triangle shaped) on the inner circumference of the chainting ans the mark to be behind the crank arm. I assume they talk about this triagle? Thx


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes correct. 
You purchased our "budget" version from CRC (we do for them). Now Imagine how nice we make a full price items

when you mount the ring make sure this little triangle you marked on photo sits behind crank arm. Then the position of oval is correct.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

tehan said:


> yes correct.
> You purchased our "budget" version from CRC (we do for them). Now Imagine how nice we make a full price items
> 
> when you mount the ring make sure this little triangle you marked on photo sits behind crank arm. Then the position of oval is correct.


Thanks for the quick reply. I am fine with the 'budget" look as long as the quality of the chainring is the same.


----------



## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

@tehan What is the difference between the "budget" rings vs a full cost ring? I know the ones on crc only come in black, and they're cheaper, but anything else? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Here it is installed, I will report back. I can see how the writing on it is pretty "budget" most probably paint vs laser etched. Hope it's the only difference from the "real" chainrings purchased directly from aB


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

campergf23 said:


> @tehan What is the difference between the "budget" rings vs a full cost ring? I know the ones on crc only come in black, and they're cheaper, but anything else?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


"Budget" version uses same material and same cnc machines, but design is completely different as you can see on photos. Budget chainring is less milled out, so it is heavier. There are less chamfers on the teeth for the mud as well. This budget version has chamfers similar to RF ring as we need to save cnc time on something to offer it cheaper. Cheaper price does not come from nothing as you know. 
Budget version is also laser etched. Our prime version is not for perfect stealth finish.

Overall it is still a very good chainring and much better in terms of durability than our more expensive competitors on CRC, but not AS nice as our full price version.

So you don't buy same thing on CRC and from our website. We are very clear about that.

In simple words our prime version is equivalent of XTR and "budget" somewhere around SLX/XT.

We only offer very few options of "budget" version on CRC and only in black. This is more for letting customers try one for cheap before they go and equip all their bikes with ovals.

hope that clears all questions.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

I've been running your oval ring for a while now, but picked up a CRC one on sale as a backup.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

Tehan,
do you know if MRP AMG V2 guide would work with your rings?
It works fine with MRP Mini G2 without the guide pulley, but picked up a V2 guide for the clean look.


----------



## adictionbass (Apr 13, 2008)

Finally just got my oval ring in. Took right at two weeks, but it sure is pretty. One question though... When measured from the crank arm interface surface, I'm seeing about .100" difference in offset. Is this correct?


----------



## Jerz_subbie (Sep 1, 2012)

Just a guess but that looks to be the built in 2mm spacer mentioned in the features.


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

ok folks, here is the 32t from CRC reviewed. In a nutshell I would buy again if I had to choose. As usual, YMMV...


----------



## adictionbass (Apr 13, 2008)

Not sure what you mean on the built in spacer, but I did some reading earlier in the thread and being that .1 inch is approx 2.5mm, I'm guessing this is the 50mm chain line of the AB sprocket vs what I have with my current setup. Reading the previous posts make it sound like my XX1 GXP crank should have a 49mm chain line and not the 47.5mm one discussed, but I'm going to run it and see what happens.


----------



## Jerz_subbie (Sep 1, 2012)

BLACKseries - 32T 104BCD OVAL
"Offset chainline. Chainring has built in 2mm spacers and threads. (use min. 6mm long bolts)"


----------



## adictionbass (Apr 13, 2008)

Ah, I see what you're saying. This is the direct mount spider less oval so there aren't any spacers to speak of. Thanks for the reply though!


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

tehan said:


> "Budget" version uses same material and same cnc machines, but design is completely different as you can see on photos. Budget chainring is less milled out, so it is heavier. There are less chamfers on the teeth for the mud as well. This budget version has chamfers similar to RF ring as we need to save cnc time on something to offer it cheaper. Cheaper price does not come from nothing as you know.
> Budget version is also laser etched. Our prime version is not for perfect stealth finish.
> 
> Overall it is still a very good chainring and much better in terms of durability than our more expensive competitors on CRC, but not AS nice as our full price version.
> ...


hi tehan, this is great info. Could you confirm that the teeth profile is the same though? 
I took a closer look at the pics on your website and compared to the CRC one (



) they look the same to me. Thx


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

adictionbass said:


> Finally just got my oval ring in. Took right at two weeks, but it sure is pretty. One question though... When measured from the crank arm interface surface, I'm seeing about .100" difference in offset. Is this correct?


Hey, yes this is correct. Only people who get confused are the ones who used oryginal XX1 ring with a spider before. Now when Sram moved to their own Direct Mount rings they have same offset as we do as they need to fit also Boost148 cranks/frames. This is the prime reason we do them with this offset. So does Sram now.

Nothing to worry about. I can assure you that it will not create more wear than you got from original setup. In fact we are sure it will outperform the original one...

So mount it and forget it


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

don't stress too much about the chainline. When you mount it, it will run like it should. We have tens of thousands of customers using same rings.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

mevnet said:


> ok folks, here is the 32t from CRC reviewed. In a nutshell I would buy again if I had to choose. As usual, YMMV...


thanks for the comments! I am sure you will like it even more after 2-3 weeks. If you can PLEASE report how you feel after 3 weeks. You should see even bigger difference with a time as your legs will adapt fully and you will get constantly faster.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

they are very similar. You will not drop a chain if you ask about this.
If you ride often in the mud then premium version will be better though, as it has more chamfers to clean itself.


----------



## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Are the ones from Jenson the budget ones or the premium ones?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

scottg said:


> Are the ones from Jenson the budget ones or the premium ones?


only CRC website sell the budget version. No one else.


----------



## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

[EDIT] From looking at some other posts it appears that without the 3mm Boost offset my chainline may now be improved.[/EDIT]

Any plan to release rings for BB30 direct mount with Boost 3mm offset? I'm looking for a 26T. Right now I'm making due with a regular BB30 offset 26T on my Boost GX crankset.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

tehan said:


> As we speak about new products:
> Many people asked us about this one so here it is.
> 
> New taco is coming for everyone who want some bash protection on direct mount or regular chainrings,but don't like regular bashguard. This will work with all of our oval and round chainrings as long as you have ISCG5 mount in the frame.
> ...


Are these out yet, I need one!!!


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Hello,
can you confirm for me which direction the concavity of the ring should go? I set it up so that it was concave towards the freehub side of the bike, but after getting the chain on it looks like the chainline would be better with the offset/concavity towards the non-drive side.

Does that make sense? Just want to make sure it's not something else before I take it apart.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

sandwich said:


> Hello,
> can you confirm for me which direction the concavity of the ring should go? I set it up so that it was concave towards the freehub side of the bike, but after getting the chain on it looks like the chainline would be better with the offset/concavity towards the non-drive side.
> 
> Does that make sense? Just want to make sure it's not something else before I take it apart.


look at the photo


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

sorry, raceface cinch setup.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

sandwich said:


> sorry, raceface cinch setup.


here it is.


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

thank you! I took mine apart last night and flipped it so it looks just like that. Made the chainline better. Now it's ready to ride!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

OK. We have finally got there with our new website.

Now XT m8000 oval, XTR m9000 oval and Cannondale hollowgram oval rings are all ready to order.

Absoluteblack - OVAL XT M8000
Absoluteblack - OVAL XTR M9000
Absoluteblack - Cannondale OVAL DM


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Forgot Did I mention 15% off till this Thursday only?

TYPE: #absoluteblack into Coupon code box to get 15% off

If you will have any problems with payments or site not working please send us an email!


----------



## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Pretty happy with my ring so far. Feels really weird when I'm in a gear that's too low, but once I shift up into where I should be, that feeling goes away and it's all forward momentum. I'm pretty pleased so far. Since I have the cinch interface, I might mess around with timing a bit, but I also want to spend time getting used to it.


----------



## Smak69 (Aug 26, 2015)

Hi, sorry if this has been covered already but I've got a Strive AL 7.0 Race on order that comes with a 34T Race Face Turbine crank and e.thirteen XCX+ chain guide, will the AB 34T oval be compatible with this chain guide and setup?


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Yes. Just readjust XCX to clear the high lobe.


----------



## scottg (Mar 30, 2004)

Does the 32 tooth oval 104 bcd use the male half of a chainring bolt set or does it use the type of bolt that bolts a chainring to the inner ring location? I believe the threads are different on the different bolts.


----------



## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Got mine today - 30T. Beautiful piece!

Can't wait to try out on the trails!


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

scottg said:


> I believe the threads are different on the different bolts.


The threads are the same at both locations.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

This review is a MUST Read! if you think about OVAL but you are not convinced yet.
BikeJames is a quite a figure and I am flattered with such good write up out of the blue.

http://www.bikejames.com/strength/why-ive-switched-to-an-oval-chainring/

It starts with " I'll admit that I wanted to hate it...."

and half page later

" That was a few weeks ago and I've still got the oval chainring on my bike. "


----------



## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

I am on my second oval ring. Highly recommended.
This time 30t on 29er bike. first one was 32t on 650b bike, sold that one complete.
new bike came with round 32t, switched out after 1 week.


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

tehan said:


> This review is a MUST Read! if you think about OVAL but you are not convinced yet.
> BikeJames is a quite a figure and I am flattered with such good write up out of the blue.
> 
> http://www.bikejames.com/strength/why-ive-switched-to-an-oval-chainring/
> ...


...... There goes my best kept secret.


----------



## XaeroDarkThirty (Jan 26, 2015)

*1up Chainguide compatibility?*

I just bought a 1up Chainguide (Video: OneUp Chainguide - Mtbr.com) for my SC 5010. Sram 1x11 with 32t chainring. It's got an adjustable chain guide, depending on the number of teeth you're running. Is this compatible with AbsoluteBlack Oval Cinch 28t?
If so, which setting should I set the guide to?

thanks


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

XaeroDarkThirty said:


> I just bought a 1up Chainguide (Video: OneUp Chainguide - Mtbr.com) for my SC 5010. Sram 1x11 with 32t chainring. It's got an adjustable chain guide, depending on the number of teeth you're running. Is this compatible with AbsoluteBlack Oval Cinch 28t?
> If so, which setting should I set the guide to?
> 
> thanks


Sorry for chiming in on a competitor thread. To answer your question you should set the height at 28T. Our guide was designed with ovals in mind so the top guide can accept +/-2T (or a oval ring).

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Eric Malcolm (Dec 18, 2011)

It is good to see Industry talking together on a forum. In this case it is in the mutual interests of both and helps the inquirer. The forum is not a marketing tool, but an information source and it is better to get good info than vague 'waffle'.

Thanks for contributing - Keep it up.

Eric


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

XaeroDarkThirty said:


> I just bought a 1up Chainguide (Video: OneUp Chainguide - Mtbr.com) for my SC 5010. Sram 1x11 with 32t chainring. It's got an adjustable chain guide, depending on the number of teeth you're running. Is this compatible with AbsoluteBlack Oval Cinch 28t?
> If so, which setting should I set the guide to?
> 
> thanks


In theory you already got an answer from your chainguide manufacturer. But practically, because our ovality on smaller rings is greater than +/-2T, regular chainguides like one up will not cover our oval chainring fully at each point of crank position.

This is why we are almost at the finish with our own chainguide that will be fully covering all our oval chainrings sizes properly. None of current chainguides on the market does the job properly when it comes to different sizes and ovality. With round rings that is very easy to do, but with ovals it is entire different story.

None the less you can use what you have purchased as it will work to some degree. We will have our fully compatible guides shortly so if you will have any problem then let me know and we will try to help you out.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

XaeroDarkThirty said:


> I just bought a 1up Chainguide (Video: OneUp Chainguide - Mtbr.com) for my SC 5010. Sram 1x11 with 32t chainring. It's got an adjustable chain guide, depending on the number of teeth you're running. Is this compatible with AbsoluteBlack Oval Cinch 28t?
> If so, which setting should I set the guide to?
> 
> thanks


For interest here is our guide mounted to our 32T oval ring.

[video]https://www.facebook.com/OneUp.Components/videos/vb.1406299719602060/1698507420381287/?type=3&theater[/video]

If you want to get technical the OneUp guide has clearance for +/-2.1T. On a 28T ring that means the ovality would have to be greater than 15% for the guide to stop having 100% coverage. Even then the guide would be fully functional because the chain has to rise to derail.

As I mentioned oval rings were considered from the start of the design process.

I hope that is helpful,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

tehan said:


> In theory you already got an answer from your chainguide manufacturer. But practically, because our ovality on smaller rings is greater than +/-2T, regular chainguides like one up will not cover our oval chainring fully at each point of crank position.
> 
> This is why we are almost at the finish with our own chainguide that will be fully covering all our oval chainrings sizes properly. None of current chainguides on the market does the job properly when it comes to different sizes and ovality. With round rings that is very easy to do, but with ovals it is entire different story.
> 
> None the less you can use what you have purchased as it will work to some degree. We will have our fully compatible guides shortly so if you will have any problem then let me know and we will try to help you out.


Hopefully you'll make it for both ISCG standards- that'd give you a Leg Up on One Up who left us out.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

dunno if MRP designed their new chain guide with ovality in mind or not, but their 30t-32t chain guide with inner bash works fine with 32t AB oval.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Strafer said:


> dunno if MRP designed their new chain guide with ovality in mind or not, but their 30t-32t chain guide with inner bash works fine with 32t AB oval.


is this amg v1 or amg v2. i myself am looking for something similar to v1 but unsure of the top guide. i need to run a top guide similar to v1. am an ab 32t oval user.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

spyghost said:


> is this amg v1 or amg v2. i myself am looking for something similar to v1 but unsure of the top guide. i need to run a top guide similar to v1. am an ab 32t oval user.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


V2, I posted pic on page 14, 3rd from bottom.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

a ok gotcha, but theres no top guide there though, just the bash.

as for the bash, as long as the ring teeth clear off (won't be equal to or go beyond) there shouldn't be issues. top guides will have issues if there isn't enough room for the major axis of the ring


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

Strafer said:


> dunno if MRP designed their new chain guide with ovality in mind or not, but their 30t-32t chain guide with inner bash works fine with 32t AB oval.


I have an E13 LG1 guide that works fine with my 34t AB oval ring.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

spyghost said:


> a ok gotcha, but theres no top guide there though, just the bash.


It's small, but the top guide is there.


----------



## snaxez (May 31, 2012)

Will there be anything for E-type direct mount? 
Something similar to Ceetec SL chain guide https://ceetec.ch/15901.html
or Nino Schurter's custom made chain guide https://image3.redbull.com/rbcom/01...tt-spark-bike-check-sram-x-sync-chainring.jpg 


tehan said:


> As we speak about new products:
> Many people asked us about this one so here it is.
> 
> New taco is coming for everyone who want some bash protection on direct mount or regular chainrings,but don't like regular bashguard. This will work with all of our oval and round chainrings as long as you have ISCG5 mount in the frame.
> ...


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes coming. actually a lot more than that.



snaxez said:


> Will there be anything for E-type direct mount?
> Something similar to Ceetec SL chain guide https://ceetec.ch/15901.html
> or Nino Schurter's custom made chain guide https://image3.redbull.com/rbcom/01...tt-spark-bike-check-sram-x-sync-chainring.jpg


----------



## burndtjamb (Oct 14, 2004)

tehan said:


> yes coming. actually a lot more than that.


Marcin and team - Please tell me that you guys are also planning a high direct mount version of the chain guide as well, and one that is svelte enough to clear the lower eccentric of an Ibis Ripley (unlike the one seen here: Ripley chainguide options- Mtbr.com)

BTW, I'm "absolute"ly loving my 104 BCD 32t oval ring! I recently switched from a 2x10 to 1x11 with oval and now I wish all of my bikes had oval rings!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes we will have this and much more we should be ready be end of they year with all the options.


----------



## ryan123 (Jun 15, 2004)

Just wondering how many days it has taken to get delivery, once you get dispatch email?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I've never had a dispatch email, but the last order took about a week from ordering to arriving in New Zealand.


----------



## ryan123 (Jun 15, 2004)

Thanks.


----------



## snaxez (May 31, 2012)

Will there be narrow-wide pulleys for Shimano 11spd derailleurs like RD-M9000/9050?


----------



## caRpetbomBer (Jul 13, 2013)

How is the chain stay clearance of a Oval 28t on the 64BCD.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

caRpetbomBer said:


> How is the chain stay clearance of a Oval 28t on the 64BCD.


The same as a 30t round would be.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

Mine just came in. All I can say is "wow". I'm awaiting a wide range SunRace cassette.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## g.law (Apr 16, 2007)

I've been riding my Absolute Black 32T chain ring for about a month and like most reviewers I have noticed the usual benefits. But I also noticed another benefit, my knees don't hurt at all anymore. It wasn't that they really hurt before, but now I notice 0 discomfort after a ride. Anyone else notice that their knees are better since going oval?


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Two questions...

1.) Has anyone tried both the Absolute Black ring and the WolfTooth oval ring? Does anyone have a preference?
2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


----------



## wfl3 (Dec 30, 2003)

Alias530 said:


> Two questions...
> 
> 1.) Has anyone tried both the Absolute Black ring and the WolfTooth oval ring? Does anyone have a preference?
> 2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


Why would it "burn up" a clutch derailleur? I suggest you check out a vid of an oval ring setup in action. Hint, they work fine on SS as well.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

Alias530 said:


> Two questions...
> 
> 1.) Has anyone tried both the Absolute Black ring and the WolfTooth oval ring? Does anyone have a preference?
> 2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


I have them both, I like the AB better. It also will last longer than a sram ring with no extra wear on clutch, keeping your chain on the biggest ring on cassette over night does stretch the spring so avoid that!!


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

wfl3 said:


> Why would it "burn up" a clutch derailleur? I suggest you check out a vid of an oval ring setup in action. Hint, they work fine on SS as well.


Forced derailleur cage movement. The video makes it LOOK like the cage doesn't move but I've seen it in person and it does move. And I read someone on here say it burned up their clutch. Dunno if that was a coincidence or actually the oval ring so I wanted to ask some other people.


----------



## wfl3 (Dec 30, 2003)

Alias530 said:


> Forced derailleur cage movement. The video makes it LOOK like the cage doesn't move but I've seen it in person and it does move. And I read someone on here say it burned up their clutch. Dunno if that was a coincidence or actually the oval ring so I wanted to ask some other people.


It doesn't move any more than with a round ring on the trail.


----------



## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

Alias530 said:


> Forced derailleur cage movement. The video makes it LOOK like the cage doesn't move but I've seen it in person and it does move. And I read someone on here say it burned up their clutch. Dunno if that was a coincidence or actually the oval ring so I wanted to ask some other people.


If you use this logic, a full suspension bike would also burn up a clutch derailer because of the chain growth in the suspension linkage.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## irishpitbull (Sep 29, 2011)

Alias530 said:


> Two questions...
> 
> 2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


2900 miles and both my clutch and ring are doing fine...


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

MTBMILES said:


> If you use this logic, a full suspension bike would also burn up a clutch derailer because of the chain growth in the suspension linkage.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just saying I read someone who had that issue and wondering if anyone else had the same issue... if it's not a concern, awesome, that's all I was trying to figure out


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

g.law said:


> Anyone else notice that their knees are better since going oval?


And after running a round ring for a few rides, my knees started playing up again.

#loveoval


----------



## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

I just put a 32t Absolute Oval GXP on my bike, and I was looking for a 104BCD for my wife's bike and came across these from China: Gear King Narrow Wide Single Oval Bike Chainring Chain Ring 104bcd 32 34 36T | eBay

Does anyone have an opinion? Would the ovality be off?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hello guys,
Just want to reinforce the message about clutch rear mech. Absoluteblack Ovals do NOT damage the clutch. Period.
In most cases cage does not move at all (short and medium cage). In some cases (long cage) it moves very, very little. In fact so little that it only uses play on the clutch itself and do not engage it. Try yourself with a finger and you will see that there is about 1.5mm allowed movement before you get a big resistance from clutch.


If someone will manage to "burn" the clutch riding absoluteblack oval rings, I will personally buy him new rear mech.

Now, I can only talk about Absoluteblack oval rings as I designed them and spent 2 years developing them. Recently there are more and more companies pooping up overnight with ovals and sadly most of them have not done any research. Oval is oval, right?  (this was same logic with Biopace 2 years ago, but most forgot that already).

So decide yourself if you want to have a real AB oval that works or other "oval" that may or may not work in the same way we advertise and stand behind our product. 

There are ton of things that can be done wrong in such a "simple" thing like an oval chainring. This is why some works great and some doesn't.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

^ that's why i stick to ab even for my next purchase of xt m8000 and my upcoming road/cx oval rings


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

I'm not here to ignite fire, but would like to know further on how AB affects rear suspension: 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS - Page 110- Mtbr.com



cSquared said:


> ...
> Suspension interaction is the concern.
> These bikes are tuned to the chain line forces. And when the oval is used, the chainline forces are moving up and down through the pedal stroke.
> In effect, pointing the force - too high, then too low.
> ...


According to the post, oval doesn't work well for a canfield riot, but works well for a canfield jedi because of the pulley.

Is there a sort of limitation in terms of suspension design that affects an oval rings efficiency so to speak?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi,
Oval rings do not affect any bike suspension in a bad way. In fact they help in creating less bob when pedaling, especially with simpler bike constructions like single pivot designs. This is because your power delivery is much smoother to the rear wheel.

"chainline forces" does not exist Most people get really confused when looking at oval or trying to figure it out without proper knowledge. Worse is if they only try it on parking lot and think they know everything about it. 

Radius of the ring changes during pedaling, so does the force you apply to push that radius in each point (as you do not push with same force at each point of the stroke). This creates more consistent pedal stroke, so how come can it be worse than round rings? 

Fact is that round rings are not good for full suspension bikes as they create spikes in your power output in certain places of the stroke. This affects your suspension. Not other way round. But because round rings have been used for so many years in this application, general impression is that they must be good for it 


I know Chris so I will give him a call to find out what he said about the ovals.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

tehan said:


> Hi,
> 
> I know Chris so I will give him a call to find out what he said about the ovals.


you're the man!

collaboration and product development at its peak!


----------



## David Charles Segen (Oct 11, 2015)

funny they actually premised this design on mine, then i beat them again

Karbun Five : Services

let me know what yall think


----------



## David Charles Segen (Oct 11, 2015)

hey guys... yall arent sore losers now that no one cares about oval are you?

Karbun Five : Services


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

First ride done on mine. Out of the 17 segments that I encountered, I got a PR on 15 of them and a 2nd place on the other two. Not bad.

I went down a size (old ring 32, new oval ring 30), so I'm thinking a lot of it was just being in a more optimal cadence. These were really steep trails I rarely ride and I was in my lowest gear a lot with my old bigger chainring, so I could ride at 100% and hold it longer instead of being forced to ride at 110% just to keep from tipping over.

Anyway, I noticed something--you know how when you're in too easy of a gear and you feel your legs free-spin before it catches the hub? I noticed that happening. I noticed I was able to grunt up things I'd have to shift down to get up before, so less downshifting, but on flat or downhill I had to shift up more frequently. Anyone notice this?

Also, just to make sure I mounted it the right way, there's only one way to mount the direct mount model right?


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

David Charles Segen said:


> hey guys... yall arent sore losers now that no one cares about oval are you?
> 
> Karbun Five : Services


Never concerned myself with what others thought.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

tehan said:


> Hi,
> Oval rings do not affect any bike suspension in a bad way. In fact they help in creating less bob when pedaling, especially with simpler bike constructions like single pivot designs. This is because your power delivery is much smoother to the rear wheel.
> 
> "chainline forces" does not exist Most people get really confused when looking at oval or trying to figure it out without proper knowledge. Worse is if they only try it on parking lot and think they know everything about it.
> ...


Does this look like the amount of movement you would expect? I just took this video.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Alias530 said:


> First ride done on mine. Out of the 17 segments that I encountered, I got a PR on 15 of them and a 2nd place on the other two. Not bad.
> 
> I went down a size (old ring 32, new oval ring 30), so I'm thinking a lot of it was just being in a more optimal cadence. These were really steep trails I rarely ride and I was in my lowest gear a lot with my old bigger chainring, so I could ride at 100% and hold it longer instead of being forced to ride at 110% just to keep from tipping over.
> 
> ...


Not sure if it's the same thing you're mentioning...but with an oval...it's easier for me to get my legs over the top of the pedal stroke. That could be what you're feeling. I'm able to speed up my cadence faster (if that made any sense) with an oval. Like getting to the top of a short, tech section of trail. I'll speed up my cadence to quickly accelerate up and over that part.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> Not sure if it's the same thing you're mentioning...but with an oval...it's easier for me to get my legs over the top of the pedal stroke. That could be what you're feeling. I'm able to speed up my cadence faster (if that made any sense) with an oval. Like getting to the top of a short, tech section of trail. I'll speed up my cadence to quickly accelerate up and over that part.


I feel like there are brief periods with each stroke where my power isn't reaching the hub though... like if you were in too easy of a gear on flat ground or a slight downhill. It feels like I'm free-spinning for a split second then I hear the hub engage. It makes the same kind of sound as if I was coasting and started pedaling hard.


----------



## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

It might be the -2 on the ring you're feeling? Plus you went down to a 30T from a 32T. So you went down -4 teeth at the dead spot. Two physical and two virtual...lol...I think.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> It might be the -2 on the ring you're feeling? Plus you went down to a 30T from a 32T. So you went down -4 teeth at the dead spot. Two physical and two virtual...lol...I think.


Yeah. Going to a harder gear made it go away.

I read people on here say that these rings allow for less frequent shifting but my experience is that only applies when going uphill. When going on flat or downhill, I had to shift more often.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes that is fine. You are still within the play of the clutch mechanism. The bigger cog on the back you use the more this movement is visible. But even on 42T is is all fine. 
It will not affect durability of your rear mech.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes there is only one way to mount sram direct mount ring.

What you noticed is simply because you use now smaller chainring. So on downhill all your gears seem too light at the moment. You will get used to it in 2-3 rides and you will develop new habit to downshift correctly. This is not related to oval on its own but to the fact that you use now smaller ring compared to your old one.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

this is because you moved to smaller chaining overall. If you would use like to like (in your case if you would have purchased 32T oval) then you would have not noticed that.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

tehan said:


> this is because you moved to smaller chaining overall. If you would use like to like (in your case if you would have purchased 32T oval) then you would have not noticed that.


Gotcha. I'm fine with a 32 for most of my trails but every time I go to the trail system I tested the new ring at, I'm miserable. Hell, I even wish I had a 28 ring on some of the climbs there.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Tehan - have you considered making these for road bikes? I would love one for my small chainring on my 2x11 Dura Ace setup (34 tooth). I'm not sure if it would even work, but you have a buyer if you were to make one that shifted right.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Alias530 said:


> Tehan - have you considered making these for road bikes? I would love one for my small chainring on my 2x11 Dura Ace setup (34 tooth). I'm not sure if it would even work, but you have a buyer if you were to make one that shifted right.


here you go we are going into road, cx and Gravel very heavy now. So will cover in few months every possible option.

absoluteBLACK | ROAD chainrings


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

tehan said:


> here you go we are going into road, cx and Gravel very heavy now. So will cover in few months every possible option.
> 
> absoluteBLACK | ROAD chainrings


Wow, had no idea that existed and neither did the road bike forum I posted on. You should make an account so you can market it there.

This will work on Dura Ace 9000 and it shifts right? Do I need any nuts/bolts or is this a direct replacement for my existing one?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

can you let me know which road biek forum you mean?

yes this is direct replacement. No other parts needed. If you choose 110/4 then it fits dura-ace 9000.

just heads up. This is written on the our page as well.. 34T has a smaller ovality than 36T. This is due to bolt bcd restriction. so if you feel strong get he 36T. it will work with 50T.

"ramps" on the ring are almost identical to the original small ring, so shifting will not be compromised.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

tehan said:


> can you let me know which road biek forum you mean?
> 
> yes this is direct replacement. No other parts needed. If you choose 110/4 then it fits dura-ace 9000.
> 
> ...


Road Bike Review is where I posted. Not many replies yet but nobody suggested it. I posted the link in there.

On the hills around here, I need that 34 low end. I use my granny gear a lot as is. Hoping for something that'll be a little easier on my knees. You think this is the ticket?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

yes it will work and will help you. 34T just looks a bit less oval. Same does Rotor as we are all restricted with the BCD of the crank.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I got my AB GXP direct NW oval, and its a beautifully machined piece of art. Took my first ride, and to be honest, I did not notice the ovality of it nearly as much as I was expecting. Some technical rooty climbs were easier than usual to get past that dead spot in each pedal stroke, but it was both a blessing and a curse since it lead to some overpower/slippage. Cant wait to get the hang of this thing.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We are looking for Brand Ambassadors for 2016! 
Join the exclusive Absoluteblack Brand Ambassador Program by clicking the link:

absoluteBLACK | Ambassador program

If you know someone who may be interested - SHARE this information.

We are looking for people around the World, so don't be shy

We are looking for athletes, enthusiasts and bike bloggers who have many exciting rides planned, are influential within their local or regional cycling community and who have the ability to write, film or capture images along the way.


----------



## Couloirman (Sep 17, 2010)

First ride on my oval the other day. 34 tooth absolute black on a SRAM Force CX1 drivetrain with 10-42 cassette on a 150 mile rail trail. I know you aren't supposed to change major things on your bike for a long ride but man oh man I am glad I did. For starters, I would NEVER have known it was an oval just from pedal feel, all I knew is I had a silent, smooth drivetrain that was efficient and got me through 150 miles of pushing in about 12 hours with almost no knee pain. When I did this ride last year I was slower and walked with a limp for 4 days after. This year I was in worse shape but somehow managed to pull it off. I can't say I place 100% of the success on the oval, but I am now a full on convert and am about to order ovals for all my bikes. Best bike purchase under $100 I ever made.


----------



## RockySpieler (Jan 8, 2012)

I have a 32T direct mount on a BB30.

It looks super sexy.

Climbing on the loose stuff is much smoother, less wheel spin.

Fantastic bit of kit.

I only notice a slight issue where it feels like I am ahead of the torque (like a dead-band) with the Oval with very high cadence (100+ rpm). That's a draw back of the 1x10 (11-42) coupled with a 32T. However it is a minor issue, I get occasional chain drops but no more than with raceface NW 32T.

Did I mention it looks super sexy.........


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

This is how to find and cut correct chain length for your 1X drivetrain with Oval or round ring.

We get hundreds of questions about this and decided to make a short video with Bike Journalist- Justin Loretz

Please share with everyone who may need it That is all your friends with 1X drivetrain.


----------



## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

Is the RaceFace Cinch oval ring flippable to tweak chainline? I currently have a 104bcd crank with the 32t Oval and actually had to add a spacer to my BB to get it to clear my frame. I am soon switching to a RaceFace Turbine Cinch crank and ordering a 32t cinch oval from AB... Just wondering if I will still need spacers or not...


----------



## ChanceG (Nov 17, 2014)

Can someone help me out with this? I want a 28t oval but would like to know if a direct mount option will work with my crank or do I need out just go with a 28t 64 bcd. I have 13' Specialized Camber Comp with the Custom SRAM S-1250, 10-speed XC Trail double w/ alloy guard, PF30 spindle, 175mm


----------



## skyval (May 2, 2006)

dirtbyte said:


> Is the RaceFace Cinch oval ring flippable to tweak chainline? I currently have a 104bcd crank with the 32t Oval and actually had to add a spacer to my BB to get it to clear my frame. I am soon switching to a RaceFace Turbine Cinch crank and ordering a 32t cinch oval from AB... Just wondering if I will still need spacers or not...


I have the Race Face Cinch cranks with the 30 tooth AB oval and I just use the single spacer that your supposed to use anyway.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

skyval said:


> I have the Race Face Cinch cranks with the 30 tooth AB oval and I just use the single spacer that your supposed to use anyway.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I am keeping my fingers crossed that the 32t will fit! My frame has pretty tight clearance. If the direct mount ring sits closer to where the big ring would be on a triple crankset, then I will be fine. If it sits where the middle ring would be, then it is going to be really tight...


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi, seems direct mount will not fit.

First check on your big ring what BCD you have. If it is 120bcd then we do not have an option for you.
So check that first. It's written on the big ring on the front somewhere.


----------



## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

tehan said:


> Hi, seems direct mount will not fit.
> 
> First check on your big ring what BCD you have. If it is 120bcd then we do not have an option for you.
> So check that first. It's written on the big ring on the front somewhere.


I think you misunderstood my question. I am NOT trying to mount a direct mount ring to a 104bcd crankset, LOL! My XT 104BCD crankset is about to be wall art (being retired after many years of abuse).

My current, soon to be retired setup is an XT triple crankset with a 32t Oval mounted on the 104bcd middle position. I had to add an extra spacer to my bottom bracket to get clearance on the oval at the biggest part of the oval (a round 32t fit before I got this ring).

So... That has been working fine, but... I just ordered a new Crankset and bottom bracket (Race Face Turbine Cinch + RF BSA30 bottom bracket), along with the AB 32t Oval Raceface Cinch version. I am HOPING that being direct mount the ring will be further out from the center of the bottom bracket than my current 104bcd mounted in the middle, and I will not need extra spacers. You know since on the triple crankset it is currently in the middle and offset some for the threaded ring and to clear the spider. I would think the direct mount ring on the NEW crankset would be farther out from the center.

Just to re-iterate: 
OLD Setup = XT crank (Triple) with AB 32T Oval - Required an extra spacer on bottom bracket to get frame clearance. Works great, but beat the hell crankset is being retired.
NEW Setup = RaceFace Turbine Cinch crankset with RaceFace BSA30 Bottom Bracket + AB 32T Oval RaceFace Cinch Direct Mount ring.

Just wondering if I will need the extra spacer or not, or will the ring in my new setup sit further out from the frame since it is a designated direct mount ring, and not an afterthought mounted on the middle of a triple crankset. Anyhow, all the parts are ordered and will be here next week, and I will post my update here when it all gets here (CAN'T FREAKIN WAIT!).

I should mention that since riding on the 32T oval for about 2 months, I am fully hooked. I thought about ordering the RF round ring when I ordered the new crankset, but like my current setup too much to go back to round. I really notice the difference during low cadence steep climbing, so smooth. Thanks for making awesome, cutting edge, trend setting products. Oh, and I too get annoyed every time someone compares these to BioPace. I ran biopace back in the day, and I can't remember what I thought about it (I was about 12 years old, and not really riding that hard!).


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Installed my 32T this morning on my E-Thirteen cranks then went for a ride before they close the trails due to rain and talk about sweet, no more dead spot and am able to climb at ease without having to change gears as much as I used too. Should have install this a long time ago.
Now the only problem that I've noticed is the chain will drop to my 36T when I'm pedaling backwards from the 42T even though the chain line is sweet, which didn't happen when I had my E-Thirteen direct mount Guidering but I don't really care since I won't need to pedal backwards as much to eliminate the dead spot.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Nash04 said:


> Installed my 32T this morning on my E-Thirteen cranks then went for a ride before they close the trails due to rain and talk about sweet, no more dead spot and am able to climb at ease without having to change gears as much as I used too. Should have install this a long time ago.
> Now the only problem that I've noticed is the chain will drop to my 36T when I'm pedaling backwards from the 42T even though the chain line is sweet, which didn't happen when I had my E-Thirteen direct mount Guidering but I don't really care since I won't need to pedal backwards as much to eliminate the dead spot.


This happens to a friend of mine but with the standard 32T XX1 N/W chain ring. He is running an XO cassette and XO rear derailleur.

I have the same bike (Nomad 3) but run an XX1 cassette (and XX1 derailleur originally) and XTR Di2 rear derailleur and I have never had that problem.

I think it must be something to do with the tolerances of the XO1 cassette as he has checked frame alignment and derailleur hanger many times. He also runs SRAM chains (which have not been great since they bought SACHS) where as I run KMC SL-TiN chains or XTR/ Dura-ace chains so maybe that makes a difference too.

We both run a gearing set up that makes the 42T an emergency bail out gear (ie I choose my front chain ring size based on what I can ride up 95% of on the 36T rear) so I avoid the most extreme chain line in the highest torque situations (slow heavy pedalling on the largest cog).


----------



## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

I am getting a 32t AB oval ring soon to go on a Raceface Atlas FR crank. The Atlas crank has thicker tabs, does anyone know if I need 10mm crank bolts or will standard 8mm bolts work?


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

al-r said:


> I am getting a 32t AB oval ring soon to go on a Raceface Atlas FR crank. The Atlas crank has thicker tabs, does anyone know if I need 10mm crank bolts or will standard 8mm bolts work?


They state to use long bolts with their chainring for the 104 BCD on their web site.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Nash04 said:


> Installed my 32T this morning on my E-Thirteen cranks then went for a ride before they close the trails due to rain and talk about sweet, no more dead spot and am able to climb at ease without having to change gears as much as I used too. Should have install this a long time ago.
> Now the only problem that I've noticed is the chain will drop to my 36T when I'm pedaling backwards from the 42T even though the chain line is sweet, which didn't happen when I had my E-Thirteen direct mount Guidering but I don't really care since I won't need to pedal backwards as much to eliminate the dead spot.


Hi Nash,
That sounds like a small issue with the rear mech setup. 
Reason I say this is because our 32/t ring has 1mm better chainline than your original ring and that means even better alignment with 42T than your previous setup.

I would check if you mounted new chain, and if you did then check if the chain is not too short as this may be the problem. Few posts above you can see our video how to properly find chain length. 
Also check if your rer mech is properly tuned and B-tension bolt has not loosen up.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

8mm bolts will do. If you have Atlas then sometimes they come with granny ring bolts. You can use those as well - I think they are 10mm long.


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

tehan said:


> Hi Nash,
> That sounds like a small issue with the rear mech setup.
> Reason I say this is because our 32/t ring has 1mm better chainline than your original ring and that means even better alignment with 42T than your previous setup.
> 
> ...


It's a new chain HG-700 11Sp and did follow the video instruction (4 links) and there were no issue with it prior. Did have the same issue with the Race Face NW chainring. I'll get my mechanic to check the adjustments but either way, it's OK with me since I won't need to pedal backwards anymore to avoid the dead spot with yours and it's rear that I use the 42 T


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm extremely curious with the 32T oval chainring.

I have a somewhat "square" pedaling, it's how I feel natural. Pedaling in circles always causes me lower back pain (yes, I workout the back muscles, a lot) and my right knee also hates the idea


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I am finding that I am pushing better wattage for the same heart rate at a slightly lower perceived effort. Hard to put numbers on it but some of the climbs I can sustain 200 watts on @ 145 bpm I am pushing 208-210 at the same heart rate and it feels a bit easier. I am not sure how much is regaining fitness after ACL surgery and how much is due to the oval chian ring. I think the feeling slightly easier is definitely due to the oval chain ring. I also jumps from a round 30T N/W to a 32T Oval and it still feels slightly easier. Go figure.

One thing to consider is having a proper bike fit but only if the fit tech actually mountain bikes and understands the different requirements for a mountain biker over a roadie and some of the compromises we make in order to ride technical terrain better.


----------



## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

Was planning a direct mount chainring for my new SRAM GX1400 crank, and started reading about these ovals. The second I saw how the AB oval was shaped in relation to the crank, I was sold. The temptation was there to downsize, but I ordered a 32T since I was already interested in a wide-range cassette, plus want to see firsthand the difference an oval makes for the same T count. 
Going from 175mm to 170mm cranks already made a noticeable, however slight, difference in comfort(30" inseam, bad knees). 
Hopefully the oval will be another positive change.


----------



## AlBeThere (Feb 4, 2008)

tehan said:


> Hi Nash,
> That sounds like a small issue with the rear mech setup.
> Reason I say this is because our 32/t ring has 1mm better chainline than your original ring and that means even better alignment with 42T than your previous setup.
> 
> ...


I'm having a similar chain line issue with XT M8000 1X11 Cranks, an AB Oval 30T and an X01 10-42 Cassette. The bike shift perfectly and the drive train is quiet and silky smooth but when I back pedal in the 42T cog the chain drops to the 32T cog immediately-less than a half revolution of the pedal stroke.

My chain length seems good compared to the video in this thread-maybe a link too long-definitely not too short. Should I start with the B-tension and move it in so the top guide pulley is closer to the cassette or should I add more B-tension?

Thanks for the help.

Mike


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

AlBeThere said:


> I'm having a similar chain line issue with XT M8000 1X11 Cranks, an AB Oval 30T and an X01 10-42 Cassette. The bike shift perfectly and the drive train is quiet and silky smooth but when I back pedal in the 42T cog the chain drops to the 32T cog immediately-less than a half revolution of the pedal stroke.
> 
> My chain length seems good compared to the video in this thread-maybe a link too long-definitely not too short. Should I start with the B-tension and move it in so the top guide pulley is closer to the cassette or should I add more B-tension?
> 
> ...


what's you're chainline? this usually happens on larger cassette if the chainring is more outboard and provides a severe chainline when in low gear


----------



## CarverS (Sep 28, 2015)

dirtbyte said:


> Is the RaceFace Cinch oval ring flippable to tweak chainline? I currently have a 104bcd crank with the 32t Oval and actually had to add a spacer to my BB to get it to clear my frame. I am soon switching to a RaceFace Turbine Cinch crank and ordering a 32t cinch oval from AB... Just wondering if I will still need spacers or not...


No spacers needed. Just mounted an oval 32t on my fatbike raceface turbine where was a double set up 36 x 22 before.


----------



## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

I'm already planning on switching to the ring, cog and rotors on my Sir9 and looking at building another SS and do the same.


Lindahl said:


> Sweet!
> 
> absoluteBLACK | OVAL 104 / 64BCD
> 
> Curious to try the 34 when it comes out in November.


----------



## AlBeThere (Feb 4, 2008)

spyghost said:


> what's you're chainline? this usually happens on larger cassette if the chainring is more outboard and provides a severe chainline when in low gear


I think this may be my issue. I'm on a new Ripley LS and the chainline is hard to measure. The centerline of the bike is not very obvious with the offset suspension. I measured last night and came up with 51.7mm. Seems a little high for a modern mtn bike that the designers would know many users would be running 1X.

Mike


----------



## Eric Malcolm (Dec 18, 2011)

AlBeThere said:


> I'm having a similar chain line issue with XT M8000 1X11 Cranks, an AB Oval 30T and an X01 10-42 Cassette. The bike shift perfectly and the drive train is quiet and silky smooth but when I back pedal in the 42T cog the chain drops to the 32T cog immediately-less than a half revolution of the pedal stroke.
> 
> My chain length seems good compared to the video in this thread-maybe a link too long-definitely not too short. Should I start with the B-tension and move it in so the top guide pulley is closer to the cassette or should I add more B-tension?
> 
> ...


Mike,

Since you are having good shifting performance it is unlikely that adjusting the B-tension will help. You are up against natural physics that has been a part of the derailleur system since its inception. That is, when the chain comes off the cassette sprocket it is under tension by being pulled towards the chain-ring. The chain is guided onto the cassette by the guide pulleys. Reversing the process means that an un-guided chain (no pulleys) will want to find it's easiest route to run un-bent. It finds this easily by 'falling' down the cassette until it finds its straightest route. Its the nature of the beast unfortunately and I probably sound like a bit of a kill-joy, particularly if your neighbours bike does not do this (he is just fortunate - there is always an exception). I have found that I just have to keep on pedalling.....it requires a modified riding technique to avoid the drive train crunch and lack of drive.

Eric


----------



## AlBeThere (Feb 4, 2008)

Eric Malcolm said:


> Mike,
> 
> Since you are having good shifting performance it is unlikely that adjusting the B-tension will help. You are up against natural physics that has been a part of the derailleur system since its inception. That is, when the chain comes off the cassette sprocket it is under tension by being pulled towards the chain-ring. The chain is guided onto the cassette by the guide pulleys. Reversing the process means that an un-guided chain (no pulleys) will want to find it's easiest route to run un-bent. It finds this easily by 'falling' down the cassette until it finds its straightest route. Its the nature of the beast unfortunately and I probably sound like a bit of a kill-joy, particularly if your neighbours bike does not do this (he is just fortunate - there is always an exception). I have found that I just have to keep on pedalling.....it requires a modified riding technique to avoid the drive train crunch and lack of drive.
> 
> Eric


Eric,

Thanks for the detailed response and great info. I agree with you-I'll just ride it and enjoy the 1X11.

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

.deleted


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

What are the chances of the direct-mount CX ring working on a short-spindle BB30 crank? What would the chainline be?


----------



## ChanceG (Nov 17, 2014)

Do you guys have a SRAM bb30, short spindle, direct mount chainring in a size 28t available?


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Pulled the trigger on a 32 oval ring.
Done my Saturday ride (30 miles, all the tough local climbs) and my last commutes simulating the 1x10 range. Missed the top range one or two times, never missed the low range, so it might work.

Let's see how the oval goes, quite curious.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

spsoon said:


> What are the chances of the direct-mount CX ring working on a short-spindle BB30 crank? What would the chainline be?


Probably depends on your frame... on my frame (BSB9 RDO) the ring hits the chainstay without the spacer that takes up the slack in length difference between short and long spindle BB30 (I have a CX1 crank--long spindle BB30).


----------



## Rex Luthor (Jan 17, 2009)

Just for everyone's info, Shimano's new cranks in single ring format have a 50.8mm chain line; Race Face Cinch is 51 and SRAM is 49.

For aftermarket rings, OneUp is 49; AB is 49.9 and Wolftooth is 49. RF (and Shimano) feels 51 is middle of cassette so that should be the ideal chain line. I think since most tend to spend more time in the bigger cogs (or at least it seems that way to me) that bias to a more inward chainline by the other makers is desired (quieter and less wear under hard pedaling). 

Anyway, there are exceptions to those chainlines amongst the products offered by the above but those are pretty much constants for their most common single rings and especially direct mounts.

None of these rings will cause your chain to drop down the cassette: it would have done it with the stock ring too. Eric's post is bang on. I don't know I've seen the chain drop down the cassette while back pedalling on a 1x10 set up but I see it on all the SRAM 1x11's (admittedly all with Cinch cranks but I've seen all levels of cassette/rear D do it).

After spending some time on an AB 32 I see a time in the very (very) near future when all single ring mountain bikes sold come with an oval rather than round.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Rex Luthor said:


> Just for everyone's info, Shimano's new cranks in single ring format have a 50.8mm chain line; Race Face Cinch is 51 and SRAM is 49.
> 
> For aftermarket rings, OneUp is 49; AB is 49.9 and Wolftooth is 49. RF (and Shimano) feels 51 is middle of cassette so that should be the ideal chain line. I think since most tend to spend more time in the bigger cogs (or at least it seems that way to me) that bias to a more inward chainline by the other makers is desired (quieter and less wear under hard pedaling).
> 
> ...


I can't seem to nail down why chains drop down the cassette when back pedaling. I've seen it on my road bike (2x11) where it drops down the cassette 3-4 gears then a week later it won't at all then a week later it'll drop 1-2 gears. No adjustments made and I lube my chain every other ride, so I don't know what is causing it to happen then the solution solves itself. Same thing on my mountain bike (1x11). It has never happened on my cross bike though (1x11).


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

am an ab 32t oval user mounted in slx double here with 1mm spindle spacer. backpedalling in 42t m8000 xt will drop the chain 2 rings. yep its an annoyance on the bike stand, but why would one pedal backwards on a 42t...

no biggie imo


----------



## goldmyu (Nov 3, 2015)

I have just ordered from CRC the Absolute Black oval 32T 104BCD ,
I have a Sram s-1250 crank on my specialized enduro 29 2014 comp, picture of the crank-set are attached, i am not sure which chainring Bolts should i order ? what is the required length of the bolts so it will fit my crank the best way? its a 3 plates crank ( the third is a bash-guard) , do i need any thing else (spacers?) in order to get a good chainline ? can i use the bolts i currently have on my crank?















thanks for the help


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

spyghost said:


> am an ab 32t oval user mounted in slx double here with 1mm spindle spacer. backpedalling in 42t m8000 xt will drop the chain 2 rings. yep its an annoyance on the bike stand, but why would one pedal backwards on a 42t...
> 
> no biggie imo


I do all the time... top of a climb, taking a break, back pedal to get to the top of the stroke when I start riding again before shifting into the gear I should be in. This could be fixed by just shifting a gear or two before I take a break, but for what this stuff costs that seems to fall into the "you shouldn't have to" category.

Or ratcheting over some tech stuff, backpedal a bit to keep from pedal striking, chain drops a gear or two, then you either have to dismount or risk breaking your chain when you are basically asking it to downshift twice under low cadence/high load.


----------



## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Alias530 said:


> Probably depends on your frame... on my frame (BSB9 RDO) the ring hits the chainstay without the spacer that takes up the slack in length difference between short and long spindle BB30 (I have a CX1 crank--long spindle BB30).


Thanks for the info


----------



## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

OwenM said:


> Was planning a direct mount chainring for my new SRAM GX1400 crank, and started reading about these ovals. The second I saw how the AB oval was shaped in relation to the crank, I was sold. The temptation was there to downsize, but I ordered a 32T since I was already interested in a wide-range cassette, plus want to see firsthand the difference an oval makes for the same T count.
> Going from 175mm to 170mm cranks already made a noticeable, however slight, difference in comfort(30" inseam, bad knees).
> Hopefully the oval will be another positive change.


Having been out of town for a few days, my oval was just now installed and taken for a spin. 
The difference it makes was immediate and obvious to me, particularly uphill and in higher gears. The harder the pedaling, the more noticeable the oval's effect. 
Heading out for ~20 trail miles in about an hour, and really looking forward to "testing" this combination of shorter cranks and oval chainring. 
I think my knees are going to be very happy!:thumbsup:

btw, switching to a direct mount saved 61g/2.15oz vs. the spider and stock chainring of the same size(32T).


----------



## Rex Luthor (Jan 17, 2009)

goldmyu said:


> I have just ordered from CRC the Absolute Black oval 32T 104BCD ,
> I have a Sram s-1250 crank on my specialized enduro 29 2014 comp, picture of the crank-set are attached, i am not sure which chainring Bolts should i order ? what is the required length of the bolts so it will fit my crank the best way? its a 3 plates crank ( the third is a bash-guard) , do i need any thing else (spacers?) in order to get a good chainline ? can i use the bolts i currently have on my crank?
> thanks for the help


Just use those same bolts that can be seen in the pics: the ones mounting your bash and the next ring. 8mm or 10mm will both work fine.

I am not sure the chainline on that SRAM set but I do know this: I love the chainlines provided by the chainrings that are threaded and offset inwards a bit to clear the 104BCD mounting tabs. I am referring to the round 30T narror/wide rings or the 32t narrow/wide ovals like you purchased.

On most double + bash or triple 104bcd cranks going to a single ring with that offest will yield about a 48mm chainline. Persnally I'd rather go inboard than outboard with my chainline if I had to deviate. It will produce a better chainline in the larger cogs and still not be inboard enough to cause the chain to rub on the smallest cogs.

Just FYI I was running a 28t on a set of XTR985 doubles. That 28t can only be mounted on the inside of that crank. Anyway, the chainline was about 46mm and it was great for the big cogs but I did get noise on my 2 smallest cogs (as chain would rub against the next large cog when in those gears). It worked it was just a bit annoying.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

@OwenM

according to this chap:
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...g-when-back-pedaling-907928.html#post11783424

apparently 45mm is the perfect chain line.

I am running a 32T Ab Oval on my XTR M980 cranks and have never had any trouble shifting on an XX1 cassette with either the XX1 derailleur (mechanical) or XTR Di2 rear derailleur (or losing the chain when back pedalling which is the discussion in the other thread).









I used 10 mm Ti chain ring bolts from Titanium Bolts, Titanium Fastener, Bike Parts Toronto, Bike Bolts

but before that I used the chain ring bolts that were there to hold the granny ring in place. I not longer used the cover tabs that are meant to be used with the XTR cranks as I think the Ti bolts look better.


----------



## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> @OwenM


Think that was for Rex, but good info.

My longer ride will happen today, since plans with my gf changed yesterday, but I did have the opportunity to check it out on a short trail that I'm intimately familiar with and sports a variety of terrain. Definitely seeing the claimed traction increase. Not huge, but just enough to make that bit of difference when it means the most, like when the rear starts losing grip climbing rocks and roots, or to get me over short but very steep places where I often struggle or get stood up right at the top after losing momentum. 
Did get bounced off the pedals a few times in places that I normally don't have that problem, but in retrospect, it didn't take a lot of brain power to figure out why-I was maintaining momentum better, and hitting them faster(is that a negative?!?).
I don't know if a more advanced rider, or one on a FS bike that offers better rear wheel traction, would find these differences as noticeable as I do. As a novice on a hardtail, and whose fitness isn't everything it could be, my initial impressions are very good, though.


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

OwenM said:


> Think that was for Rex, but good info.
> 
> My longer ride will happen today, since plans with my gf changed yesterday, but I did have the opportunity to check it out on a short trail that I'm intimately familiar with and sports a variety of terrain. Definitely seeing the claimed traction increase. Not huge, but just enough to make that bit of difference when it means the most, like when the rear starts losing grip climbing rocks and roots, or to get me over short but very steep places where I often struggle or get stood up right at the top after losing momentum.
> Did get bounced off the pedals a few times in places that I normally don't have that problem, but in retrospect, it didn't take a lot of brain power to figure out why-I was maintaining momentum better, and hitting them faster(is that a negative?!?).
> I don't know if a more advanced rider, or one on a FS bike that offers better rear wheel traction, would find these differences as noticeable as I do. As a novice on a hardtail, and whose fitness isn't everything it could be, my initial impressions are very good, though.


As for past experience, the hardtail has better traction then the FS unless you lock the rear shock and as for losing contact with the pedals, you can either slow down a tab or get clipless pedals. The main purpose of the Oval is to help you going up a hill and also it does help me save my knees. Practice/practice! Enjoy it


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Nash04 said:


> As for past experience, the hardtail has better traction then the FS unless you lock the rear shock.


Nah, the fully has better traction, the hard tail is more efficient.


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

I heard that oval chainrings are well utilised when you have a small-ish cassette, is this correct? I have a 10sp 11 - 36, and am wanting to go 1x. Can't decide whether I should go for a round 32T (with 11-42 cassette), 32T or 34T with my current cassette or use this oval chainring with my current cassette (32T or 34T?)

I typically ride steep tracks, spending 90% of the ride in the middle 30T chainring - any advice?

Thanks!


----------



## Marthy (May 8, 2015)

I use the 32T with my 12-42 (removed the small rear ring...) I get enough range for the trails that I do. In your current set up, do you use the 11T a lot? Think about how much top gearyou can actually pull... start from there.



Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Just installed the 32T oval and the 40T extender















Went for a little 2 mile ride, no climbs. The pedaling weirdness goes away after 100m. 
It's raining a lot, so testing will be tomorrow


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

Ze_Zaskar said:


> Just installed the 32T oval and the 40T extender
> 
> View attachment 1030467
> View attachment 1030468
> ...


Looks really nice. May i ask what model rear derailleur you have? Is it clutch?

Unfortunately my cassette is pinned together, so i can't add an extender.

Please report back on how it performs, interested on how well it climbs.
And did you add the extender to an 11-36 cassette?

Other than that, nice work on the upgrade. I'm jealous


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

The derailleur is a XT M786 GS (short cage), with clutch.

M cassette is also pinned, is a 11-36 SLX. I just punched out the rivets, removed the 17T cog, cut the rivets at the correct length and riveted the cluster back together.

Thanks for the comments


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Ze_Zaskar said:


> Just installed the 32T oval and the 40T extender
> 
> View attachment 1030467
> View attachment 1030468
> ...


Yes interested in your post-ride report aswell. Also do you notice a difference with having a regular ring before or is it a whole new drivetrain change?


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

I was using a 2x10, 38-24 rings, 11-36 cassette. The 38 ring was nice for commuting but I was always alternating between it and the small ring offroad.

Anyway, it's too soon to draw conclusions between the oval and the regular rings, except for the initial weirdness. There's one interesting thing, my top gear is 85", but it seems that you can take advantage of the 34T "powerzone" of the oval to gain a little more speed


----------



## Haymarket (Jan 20, 2008)

Second ride out with a 28t and I dropped the chain on a downhill. I have a clutch derailleur and sized the chain, but did not out a new chain on as this one isn't that old. Are chains that have been used before on a 2x10 more susceptible to drops?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Haymarket said:


> Second ride out with a 28t and I dropped the chain on a downhill. I have a clutch derailleur and sized the chain, but did not out a new chain on as this one isn't that old. Are chains that have been used before on a 2x10 more susceptible to drops?


And this is why you dropped a chain.

We cannot emphasis enough how important is to use a new chain with your new chainring. we have written that all over the website and even added a film.

Why would you use a used chain with a new chainring? This will only cause the damage and premature wear. Worn chains are "stretched" so they quickly damage new chainring teeth so they can adapt the pitch. Alloy Chainring wears quicker than steel chain. So older chain will damage chainring.

Please Always put new chain when you mount new chainring. No exception. This is not only about our chainrings. It's about every chainring you buy from new.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

*Single ring setup comparison*



Ze_Zaskar said:


> I was using a 2x10, 38-24 rings, 11-36 cassette. The 38 ring was nice for commuting but I was always alternating between it and the small ring offroad.
> 
> Anyway, it's too soon to draw conclusions between the oval and the regular rings, except for the initial weirdness. There's one interesting thing, my top gear is 85", but it seems that you can take advantage of the 34T "powerzone" of the oval to gain a little more speed


I have your same 2x gearing setup now on the bike I'm going to 1x on. Big differences comparing a true 1x to only using the middle ring on a 3x (with all the unnecessary gadgets that go along with it).

Anyway looks like you have a clean running gear setup now. Good luck.


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

Have a little over 100km with the oval ring.
A little early for absolute conclusions p) but I'm quite happy right now.
Some comments:
- the weird pedal bob disappears quite quickly;
- maybe I already had a reasonably smooth pedaling because I noticed no real improvement in climbing traction;
- can climb a little faster and on an heavier gear due to the easier dead spot;
- never saw anyone refer this, but once you get the trick to do a strong push on the 34t power zone you can get a little more speed than the 32-11 gearing could suggest;
- my knees and lower back seem to like it;
- on the road, when climbing standing, the transition from the dead spot to the power zone effective gearing causes the bike to make a weird lean. Might be a matter of habit, but can definitely feel it.

This is as honest as it gets


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Ze_Zaskar said:


> - maybe I already had a reasonably smooth pedaling because I noticed no real improvement in climbing traction.


Seated or standing climbing?


----------



## SirHades (Jan 9, 2015)

Had a little spin with the 28 oval the other day between snowfalls. It's on a XT 2x crank with OneUp 42 & RADr cage.
Don't know about the oval advantage, but it feels natural, which is good enough for me. Gear changes are all still crisp and very OEM XT-like and the chain stays where I'm asking it to be, even when back-pedaling.
All good, and next day delivery is a nice bonus.


----------



## Ze_Zaskar (Jan 3, 2008)

NordieBoy said:


> Seated or standing climbing?


Standing and seated


----------



## shutterbug67 (May 16, 2007)

Don't see much SS use on this thread... Just ordered the oval 32t and 18t AB cog. Wanted to find out what chain to use in a SS application. Cost is no problem. Would like it to be durable and preferably black which narrows it down to KMC chains, but was not sure what speed chain I need to be looking at? Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

@shutterbug67 you should try and match your chainring so probably a 10-11 speed chain. The KMC DLC is the best, strongest, lightest if money is no object and you want black. I am a believer in KMC chains, less weight equals less wear on the drive train as far as I am concerned.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

9-10-11 speed no problems.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

shutterbug67 said:


> Don't see much SS use on this thread... Just ordered the oval 32t and 18t AB cog. Wanted to find out what chain to use in a SS application. Cost is no problem. Would like it to be durable and preferably black which narrows it down to KMC chains, but was not sure what speed chain I need to be looking at? Any help would be greatly appreciated


32 tooth oval works great with single speed, I seem to have better traction with the oval. I recommend having a bash guard this ring will bend when hitting rocks or logs.


----------



## SimonNI (Jan 12, 2015)

Anyone running one of these with Shimano XT M8000? 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## AlBeThere (Feb 4, 2008)

SimonNI said:


> Anyone running one of these with Shimano XT M8000?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


I am.. 30T with a Sram X01 10-42 cassette.

Mike


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

SimonNI said:


> Anyone running one of these with Shimano XT M8000?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


I'm not personally using an Oval Chainring with the XT M8000 groupset, however I have seen several people (friends and ppl on youtube) use it.

In terms of compatibility all should be fine - the aB oval chainring is also compatible with the new XT M8000 cranks

This guy on youtube converted to 1x11 using the New XT M8000 and the aB oval chainring:


----------



## SimonNI (Jan 12, 2015)

Thanks for the info. Giving some serious thought to buying one to run with my M8000 set up. 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

That's how my bike is setup, 32T and works great. The chainline is not the greatest on the 42T but I'm barely on the one.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

I"m using the 30T oval with my M8000 1x11 (11x42t) without issues. Previously I had a wolftooth.
The oval is nice, can't really say I've noticed that much of a difference but I think it has made climbing just a little bit easier.


----------



## pcmark (Jul 10, 2010)

Does anyone have a picture of the AB bashring mounted with a 64bcd ring?


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

I have a unused Green 32t direct mount if anyone is interested. The Green didn't match the Fern Green on my Riot, so I ordered a black one.


----------



## Marthy (May 8, 2015)

Got mine (30T) on my new 15 Trigger Carbon Inc 650b. Got it installed when I got the bike...










Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

Does anyone know what absolute black oval chainring fits on the newer specialized epic world cups? I have the expert model.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

What's the BCD? Ask Ab perhaps.


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

squibbtp said:


> Does anyone know what absolute black oval chainring fits on the newer specialized epic world cups? I have the expert model.


Pretty sure the 104 BCD Narrow Wide single oval chainring will fit - can't imagine why it wouldn't?

I have seen people use it on the 2015 model.


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

Cam. said:


> Pretty sure the 104 BCD Narrow Wide single oval chainring will fit - can't imagine why it wouldn't?
> 
> I have seen people use it on the 2015 model.


yeah which one is the 104? And what is the BCD? I am bad with abbreviations.


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

squibbtp said:


> yeah which one is the 104? And what is the BCD? I am bad with abbreviations.


So, BCD stands for Bolt Circle Diameter - it is the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of all of the bolts on the chainring (generally measured in millimeters)

It is essential that your BCD on your chairing matches the BCD on the crankset, otherwise they will not be compatible. Therefore, since the crankset on the 2016 s-works Epic World cup has a BCD of 104 mm, you will require a absolute black Oval chainring with a BCD of 104 mm.

I'm pretty sure the absolute black oval chainring only comes in two BCD sizes (94mm and 104mm) - you will require the 104BCD one for that particular bike.

Link to product on Chain Reaction: BLACK by Absoluteblack Narrow Wide Oval Single Chainring | Chain Reaction Cycles

Hope this helps,
Cam


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Cam. said:


> So, BCD stands for Bolt Circle Diameter - it is the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of all of the bolts on the chainring (generally measured in millimeters)
> 
> It is essential that your BCD on your chairing matches the BCD on the crankset, otherwise they will not be compatible. Therefore, since the crankset on the 2016 s-works Epic World cup has a BCD of 104 mm, you will require a absolute black Oval chainring with a BCD of 104 mm.
> 
> ...


You should be more careful helping people out.

Only the Sworks has a 104, the Expert has a 94.

squibbtp, from what I can tell, your spider is removable- you need to verify this, but if I'm right, I'd get a direct mount ring and lose the spider.


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

I know one of these two will work but I am confused by the crankshaft bottom bracket width

absoluteBLACK | SRAM OVAL GXP chainring

absoluteBLACK | SRAM OVAL BB30 chainring


----------



## Cam. (Nov 13, 2015)

squibbtp said:


> I know one of these two will work but I am confused by the crankshaft bottom bracket width
> 
> absoluteBLACK | SRAM OVAL GXP chainring
> 
> absoluteBLACK | SRAM OVAL BB30 chainring


Oh sorry, was thinking we were talking about the S-works model
(Specialized Bicycle Components)

But yes, the 2016 Specialized Epic Expert has a 94 mm BCD.


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

so which one of those would work do you think?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We got lots of requests for red RF cinch chainrings so we just made them. available now. We have now also sizes for Fatbikes and these rings can be reversed for the correct fatbike chainline.

absoluteBLACK | RaceFace OVAL chainring


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

squibbtp said:


> so which one of those would work do you think?


if you get 94bcd then it will surely work. It's also easier to mount it. 
Or if you want direct mount send me an email with a photo of your crank and I will look what model you have exactly.


----------



## Jdirt (May 25, 2013)

does not work for a single speed, you will lose your chain for sure!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Jdirt said:


> does not work for a single speed, you will lose your chain for sure!


??
We have tens of thousands of users riding oval chainrings on SS bikes.
There is also massive thread here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/...ntage-singlespeed-932469-42.html#post11468770


----------



## SimonNI (Jan 12, 2015)

Is there any difference in the Black 94bcd oval ring you can get from CRC and the 94bcd XT M8000 one on the AB Web site? 



Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Jdirt said:


> does not work for a single speed, you will lose your chain for sure!


How do you figure? The number of teeth engaged by the chain does not change at any given point in the rotation. Not by a meaningful amount anyway.


----------



## Jdirt (May 25, 2013)

this is very surprising to me as when I tried it, it was very much the same as when a round ring is not perfectly round (which most seem to be) except with the oval ring the effect is more exaggerated to the point where it becomes to loose in certain crank positions and you will lose your chain as soon as the rpms get high and or the ground gets bumpy.


----------



## Jdirt (May 25, 2013)

just like with a chainring that isn't perfectly round, except with this oval ring is even MORE out of round causing very tight and very loose positions. this has been my experience. I suggest that people having success with this single speed are not running a true SS setup up ie. spring loaded chain tensioners, bashwhich, or some other work around to deal with the chain slack. or they don't actually ride their bikes.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

OT:

is tehan and marcin one and the same?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

SimonNI said:


> Is there any difference in the Black 94bcd oval ring you can get from CRC and the 94bcd XT M8000 one on the AB Web site?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


Well first difference is that we do not sell the 94bcd rings in CRC. We only have there 96bcd (xt8000) and 104bcd.

In CRC we offer lower priced chainrings exclusively for CRC. This is same material, same manufacturing process and plant, but chainrings do look different as they have more industrial looking design. So we can save on cnc time. Hence price difference.

we offer them on CRC purely from the fact that some customers do not believe in ovals yet and want to try cheaper version to test the concept. Thes echainrings will work exactly same as our premium rings you see on our page but they look different from reasons above. So you buy actually different version from CRC and we make it very clear in CRC description. We call them "BLACK by Absoluteblack" - this is our collaboration with CRC.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

tehan said:


> Well first difference is that we do not sell the 94bcd rings in CRC. We only have there 96bcd (xt8000) and 104bcd.
> 
> In CRC we offer lower priced chainrings exclusively for CRC. This is same material, same manufacturing process and plant, but chainrings do look different as they have more industrial looking design. So we can save on cnc time. Hence price difference.
> 
> we offer them on CRC purely from the fact that some customers do not believe in ovals yet and want to try cheaper version to test the concept. Thes echainrings will work exactly same as our premium rings you see on our page but they look different from reasons above. So you buy actually different version from CRC and we make it very clear in CRC description. We call them "BLACK by Absoluteblack" - this is our collaboration with CRC.


What about other online vendors? I think I got mine from Jenson.


----------



## SimonNI (Jan 12, 2015)

Cheers for the info. Will likely buy direct 


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Alias530 said:


> What about other online vendors? I think I got mine from Jenson.


"In CRC we offer lower priced chainrings exclusively for CRC."
Jenson gets from our regular distribution channels.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

tehan said:


> ??
> We have tens of thousands of users riding oval chainrings on SS bikes.
> There is also massive thread here:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/...ntage-singlespeed-932469-42.html#post11468770


Apparently, it works quite well!


----------



## pcmark (Jul 10, 2010)

I put an AB oval on my bike and did my first ride yesterday. Felt a little odd for the first couple of minutes, but I acclimated quickly and didn't notice it afterwards. Its hard to describe but it did feel like I was able to manage the slow steep climbs more efficiently. I like it.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Good news everyone. BOOST148 rings are in.
We previously made just one ring fits all but changed it now to two separate solutions.

So our 
*current OVAL GXP rings are now full 6mm offset to have proper 49mm chainline
*New Boost oval ones are 3mm offset to get to 52mm chainline

absoluteBLACK | SRAM OVAL BOOST direct mount traction chainring

chainrings look almost identical with exception for the different offset.
Available in 28,30,32 and 34 in black and red. Available now.


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

*oval ring*









put my oval ring on the end of last week. Seems great. Anyone know the proper chain length though?


----------



## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Same chain length as any other ring with the same number of teeth.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## squibbtp (Jul 3, 2009)

Le Duke said:


> Same chain length as any other ring with the same number of teeth.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


:thumbsup: cool thanks


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

tehan said:


> Good news everyone. BOOST148 rings are in.
> We previously made just one ring fits all but changed it now to two separate solutions.
> 
> So our
> ...


I know it happens, but dam that's bad timing, just ordered mine in Dec.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

squibbtp said:


> View attachment 1043707
> 
> 
> put my oval ring on the end of last week. Seems great. Anyone know the proper chain length though?


we have instructions for almost everything on website
see this video for correct chain length with oval.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

whatever you purchased you will be fine, don't worry.
We did this change mostly because it was confusing for most people who own Boost bikes. Now it is easy to pick. You either need boost or non boost version, simple.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

tehan said:


> whatever you purchased you will be fine, don't worry.
> We did this change mostly because it was confusing for most people who own Boost bikes. Now it is easy to pick. You either need boost or non boost version, simple.


I understand, but with a really short CS frame like mine, given the choice I would have waited for the new ring.


----------



## Isabis (Jul 17, 2014)

Ok, I am in the process of buying a new SS chainring and I was definitely going for a standard chainring, but this thread admittedly got my attention.

I just have one question, sorry if it has been already asked before:
You say oval chainring improves climbing and muscle power distribution, but how about flat terrain?

Muscle power distribution is definitely a plus for all sorts of terrains already, but I am curious specifically about flat terrain where average speed is 25-30km/h (15-18mph), how does AB oval chainring perform here compared to a standard chainring? Is the difference as big as with climbs?

Thank you in advance

edit: sorry, I lied, I have one more question:
If I decide to go for 34t or 36t version, mounting bolts should be 4mm long, right?
My crank arm bolt holes are 3mm deep, I guess chainring bolt hole is 1mm deep, which equals 4mm bolt length.

edit2: after spending ~3 hours on the internet last night reading about this chainring, I went onto CNC and ordered one, the reviews are just too good and I am excitedly awaiting mine


----------



## stratmosphere (May 22, 2007)

Perfect! Ordered.


----------



## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Just installed a 28t aB oval ring on my RaceFace Aeffect cranks. Felt odd for about 90 seconds and then I basically forgot it was there. Smoothed out the pedal stroke when 'mashing,' and found that I could run a slightly taller gear.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

I have a long spindle BB30 Sram Crank (DM). I'm using the 28t Oval. I just ordered some spindle spacers for the non-driveside from Wheels Manufacturing. Hopefully this corrects my chainline.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I am confused as to how non driveside spacers are going to change the chain line?


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

There is a spacer on the drive side. Placing spacers on the nondrive will shift the ring to the left.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I am confused as to how non driveside spacers are going to change the chain line?


Also confused. 
Into my eyes nds spacer only increase arms distance but has nothingvto do with chainline.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

There is a spacer on the drive side currently. I have the Sram 1400 crank with the long spindle. If I remove that and place spacers on the left and right side, the chainring will be closer to the bottom bracket shell.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Not understand your steps but still think...that only playing with spacers on ds change the chainline.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

I'll need a total of 15.48mm in spacers. I'll move about 6mm to the left side, keeping 9 on the right side. If I don't place any on the left side the crank will slide around.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## dischucker (Apr 9, 2008)

Cranks are a fixed width apart so you can't just remove spacers*. So you swap them from one side to another and the chainline (and cranks) moves one way or the other.

* mostly true


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> I am confused as to how non driveside spacers are going to change the chain line?





Placek said:


> Also confused.
> Into my eyes nds spacer only increase arms distance but has nothingvto do with chainline.


Think of it like this... If you need 2 spacers to take up all the slack, putting them on the NDS will impact the chainline as opposed putting them on the DS or putting one on each side.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

I'll post pics when the spacers arrive and they are installed.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Guys, spacers in effect just make the BB wider on what side you put the spacer on, which moves the whole BB to the side the spacer is on which moves the whole crank the same direction. It's not that hard.


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

👆👆👆

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

The confusion here lies in the fact that you said you need to order spacers from Wheels Inc to correct the problem. Why do you need more spacers when you started with the correct number of spacers and could have simply moved them from one side to the other?


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Guys, spacers in effect just make the BB wider on what side you put the spacer on

Agree

which moves the whole BB to the side the spacer is on which moves the whole crank the same direction

Dissagree...why...

When You put the spacer ex. on NDS (DS stays threaded on, with same amount of spacerss) than You move back only the NDS and make crank arms more away (bigger distance). You don't make a move of whole crank but just side of it (as internall part of BB's are made of 2 parts moving from side to side)



Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Guys, spacers in effect just make the BB wider on what side you put the spacer on, which moves the whole BB to the side the spacer is on which moves the whole crank the same direction. It's not that hard.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Spacers don't change the BB at all. They fill the space between the external bearings of the BB and the inside of the DS (spider or direct mount ring) or NDS crank. 

It seems you have a crank with a spindle designed for a 83mm bottom bracket fitted to a 68mm shell?

It is still only DS spacers that will change chain line, the rest is just fill so the crank spindle is not sliding back and forth from side to side in the bottom bracket. Not a very neat solution and it means you are pedalling with a wider than ideal Q factor but I guess it saves the cost of buying a new crankset.


----------



## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

tehan said:


> whatever you purchased you will be fine, don't worry.
> We did this change mostly because it was confusing for most people who own Boost bikes. Now it is easy to pick. You either need boost or non boost version, simple.


I have a Trek BOOST bike with Next SL cranks. So the chainring on your site, 49.9mm, chainline will work?


----------



## GreatLakesWaterman (Oct 29, 2013)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Guys 
I think the topic is not following the intention.
I do have very open questionk as leaning toward new XTR cranks.

Has anyone seen the "real life setup".
I'm wondering the look but also the way how the ring is mounted to crank (with or w/o tabs) ?
Anyone owing one or maybe seen any pic ?


----------



## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

Posted my review of the aB ring here. Looking forward to trying one of their larger rings on my gravel/commuter rig.


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Tried to contact AB directly but no effect.

So maybe over here someone will help:

Has anyone seen the "real life setup" with new XTR crank.
I'm wondering the look but also the way how the ring is mounted to crank (with or w/o tabs) ?
Anyone owing one or maybe seen any pic ?


----------



## Major Glory (May 16, 2010)

I recently bought a 32t oval ring for my Deore triple crank. Mounted to the middle position of the crank, the ring has less than 1mm of clearance with the chainstay on my Niner EMD. Why are these 32 tooth rings made with 2mm spacers at the bolt holes when all this does is push the ring farther inboard? I had a raceface 32t round ring that did not have these spacers and the chainline was just fine. Very frustrating to have something that barely works for the money spent.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

@Placek You take the original chain ring off your spider, put the XTR tabs into a zip bag and somewhere safe in your workshop/ tool box and then you use the M7 chain ring bolts that were threaded from the back of the chainring into the tabs to go from the front of the spider into the AB chainring.

I do not have a M9000 photo to show you but essentially it will look like this:








Or exactly like this (except your chain ring will say Ab):








Wolftooth sell a very nice set of ano bolts if you want to pimp them.
Otherwise you can use Ti bolts or aluminuium bolts from Toronto Cycles: Titanium Chainring Bolts, Titanium Crank Bolts, Chainring Parts

Hope that makes sense. Happy trails.


----------



## campergf23 (Aug 4, 2013)

Placek said:


> Tried to contact AB directly but no effect.
> 
> So maybe over here someone will help:
> 
> ...


I mounted mine with the tabs. I think it looks cleaner.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Major Glory said:


> I recently bought a 32t oval ring for my Deore triple crank. Mounted to the middle position of the crank, the ring has less than 1mm of clearance with the chainstay on my Niner EMD. Why are these 32 tooth rings made with 2mm spacers at the bolt holes when all this does is push the ring farther inboard? I had a raceface 32t round ring that did not have these spacers and the chainline was just fine. Very frustrating to have something that barely works for the money spent.


Because they're the equivalent of a 30t at the narrowest point.
Without the spacers, the chain would chew into the crank spider arms.


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

54 Minutes Ago
AndrewBikeGuide



This is whati needed - this type of mount i like more and need exactly black version.
Assuming it will lok somehow like this:

Wolf Tooth Components | Fluid Fin (but oval of course)


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

@Placek: exactly. Glad I could help.


----------



## chris9888 (Feb 27, 2011)

All my 3 rigs are OVAL now :thumbsup:








(Normad carbon 32T)








(Salsa rigid 34T)








(SB6c 32T)


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

And how about black color o tooths, does it wear off ?
If so than how quick ?


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Quite quickly, at the beginning of this you will see my 32t after about 100km of riding


----------



## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Looks like 2 rides and tooths are naked from black....



mevnet said:


> Quite quickly, at the beginning of this you will see my 32t after about 100km of riding


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Placek said:


> Tried to contact AB directly but no effect.
> 
> So maybe over here someone will help:
> 
> ...


Hi Sorry for late replies.
We are extremely busy from some time.

With xtr, you take off the covers, place the ring from inside and screw original xtr bolts from outside. All that infor is on our website. So you do not use the covers as they would look very odd with the oval chainring. You still use same original bolts.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

tooth will always loose the black anodizing after some time. Especially if you ride in the mud. This is normal. anodizing is a very thin cosmetic layer of ceramic film. So it will wear out during riding. But underneath is quite hard metal that does not wear so quickly. Our chainrings will last you over 12 months in "normal" "non professional" use.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

I think you already got the reply.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Major Glory said:


> I recently bought a 32t oval ring for my Deore triple crank. Mounted to the middle position of the crank, the ring has less than 1mm of clearance with the chainstay on my Niner EMD. Why are these 32 tooth rings made with 2mm spacers at the bolt holes when all this does is push the ring farther inboard? I had a raceface 32t round ring that did not have these spacers and the chainline was just fine. Very frustrating to have something that barely works for the money spent.


Hey,
Nordieboy already correctly pointed out why we use those spacers. Without them chainring will not work at all.

Issue is here that you use 3X crank. These cranks are not great for 1X conversion from reason you posted. However such clearance is not so bad. As long as chainring does not hit the chainstays all is good. There are only 2 places on the ring with such clearance. rest of the ring is smaller (oval) so clearance is bigger. So even if you drop the chain it will not clog.


----------



## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

I have a boost rear hub bike which came with Next SL cranks and Race Face 30T ring. All was well. Now installed AB 30T and the chainline isn't ideal with the higher gears being a little grindy etc. As I understand, the RF chainline is 51mm and the AB is 49.9mm. Anything I can do with the AB?


----------



## Major Glory (May 16, 2010)

Follow up.....i ended up adding another 1mm spacer to my drive side for peace of mind. Rode this set up today on my home trail....about 8 miles with a decent amount of climbs and mud. While i'm still leary of the clearance, i have to say i am a believer now in the oval ring. Great climbing in general and for me a much better rythym when climbing standing up.


----------



## David Charles Segen (Oct 11, 2015)

*karbunfive.com*


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

That reminds me. Does anyone know of a 110bcd adaptor for a weedeater?
I'm sure I could get some good use from these old chain rings.


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

I will be on the ambassador program for 2016 and am in the process of building up a completely new mtn bike. HUGE changes, going from a Niner Jet 9 with 1x10 to a Sir 9 with 1x11 (and twist shifter, oh how I have missed them). My gearing was 32 Wolftooth and 11-36 10spd cassettes. I am now going 11-42 (Sunrace) 11spd cassette and decided to up the chainring to the 34t oval AB (in green). I will report back with some photos through the build and after final build. Then with a ride report. NH has had a really crappy winter, which made skiing horrible this year, but at least we should be riding on dirt much sooner now.


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

Here it is. Build will start this weekend. 34t oval.


----------



## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

bogeydog said:


> I have a boost rear hub bike which came with Next SL cranks and Race Face 30T ring. All was well. Now installed AB 30T and the chainline isn't ideal with the higher gears being a little grindy etc. As I understand, the RF chainline is 51mm and the AB is 49.9mm. Anything I can do with the AB?


Doesn't AB make a boost chai line specific ring? That's what I was gonna get for my EX9. Or is that only compatible with Sram cranks?

Anyway, I have a 32 ring currently. Chainline is pretty consistently in the center of cassette (10-42 11 speed) for my most used gears. However, for some reason unlike my previous 1x10, I feel I'm between gears often. I thought about a 34 to change this up.

Anyway, should I stick with 32 for an oval if I'm on 32 already or step up to 34? What do you guys think.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

The 34 may be useful to get around the half gear feeling if it's still going to be low enough for you.


----------



## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

There's nothing magical about figuring out which ring to go with.

No matter what you have now, the same size oval is going to give you the exact same speed at a given cadence.

Get the same size you have now unless you want something different than what you have now. If you have a 32 and you don't spin out on the descents and don't hate the climbs, get a 32. If you have a 32 and spin out all the time on the descents, get a 34. If you have a 32 and have to grind up climbs, get a 30.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> There's nothing magical about figuring out which ring to go with.
> 
> No matter what you have now, the same size oval is going to give you the exact same speed at a given cadence.
> 
> Get the same size you have now unless you want something different than what you have now. If you have a 32 and you don't spin out on the descents and don't hate the climbs, get a 32. If you have a 32 and spin out all the time on the descents, get a 34. If you have a 32 and have to grind up climbs, get a 30.


This isn't all together true. If you switch from round to oval, oval will be more efficient on the climbs and even on the flats. That's the whole idea behind oval. So, if you are spinning a round and having a little bit of a hard time on the climbs, switching to an oval of the same size might be all the change you need to solve your climbing problem.


----------



## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> This isn't all together true. If you switch from round to oval, oval will be more efficient on the climbs and even on the flats. That's the whole idea behind oval. So, if you are spinning a round and having a little bit of a hard time on the climbs, switching to an oval of the same size might be all the change you need to solve your climbing problem.


I agree. I'm probably answering my own question, but since I feel I'm teetering on the brink of moving to a 34 anyway, the extra little bit that the oval may give is probably enough to push that move. And yes, in terms of where I ride, 34 is not too tall of a gear. I never get into the 42 or even the one below it on the cassette as it is.

And yes, the difference isn't huge, but I have this weird thing that in my most frequent gears when hammering one is either too tall or too short, I'm about half away from the sweet spot a lot of times. I'm thinking a 34 will put me closer to less back and forth shifting. And by my estimation, I should be able to keep the same stock chain length.


----------



## rixsurfer (Jan 9, 2007)

Are there plans to offer chainrings for 2X MTB set ups?


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

I will be picking it up tonight.


----------



## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

M8000 32t oval


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

I got my first real ride, or rides since it was a commute, yesterday. My way into work included mostly pavement, a short steep hill, a dirt road, and lots of lights/stop signs once I get into downtown. I noticed no bobbing, no weird pedaling, nothing different at all than my round ring of the past, except that I seemed to be pushing a gear taller in most places. I cannot isolate this to the oval ring though since I have gone from a full suspension to a hardtail that is about 3lbs lighter, but did go from a 32t round to the 34t oval. On the way home I took in some trails, mostly wide snowmobile/doubletrack, with a little singletrack and a slogging climb up a dirt access road to a fire tower. While I am out of bike shape I did find the climbing easier (though I did just complete a 1/2 marathon at 2 weeks ago so my running has kept me fit). I think the most notable thing right now is that there was nothing concerning about the oval ring. I am looking forward to putting more time on it and also getting one for my RLT 9 (which gets more mileage). I will right more after more miles.


----------



## Pedalhead (Jul 14, 2005)

offrhodes42 said:


> I got my first real ride, or rides since it was a commute, yesterday. My way into work included mostly pavement, a short steep hill, a dirt road, and lots of lights/stop signs once I get into downtown. I noticed no bobbing, no weird pedaling, nothing different at all than my round ring of the past, except that I seemed to be pushing a gear taller in most places. I cannot isolate this to the oval ring though since I have gone from a full suspension to a hardtail that is about 3lbs lighter, but did go from a 32t round to the 34t oval. On the way home I took in some trails, mostly wide snowmobile/doubletrack, with a little singletrack and a slogging climb up a dirt access road to a fire tower. While I am out of bike shape I did find the climbing easier (though I did just complete a 1/2 marathon at 2 weeks ago so my running has kept me fit). I think the most notable thing right now is that there was nothing concerning about the oval ring. I am looking forward to putting more time on it and also getting one for my RLT 9 (which gets more mileage). I will right more after more miles.


How much chainstay clearance do you have with the 34T oval on the Sir9? Asking because I recently built up a similar year (I think) Sir9 for my wife and the 32T Absolute Black wouldn't clear the chainstay. I'm guessing the 34T is ok because it doesn't have the spacers built in...? Incidentally, the 32T oval also fouls on my custom Ti frame...in both cases I'm using SLX/XT cranks.


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

Pedalhead said:


> How much chainstay clearance do you have with the 34T oval on the Sir9? Asking because I recently built up a similar year (I think) Sir9 for my wife and the 32T Absolute Black wouldn't clear the chainstay. I'm guessing the 34T is ok because it doesn't have the spacers built in...? Incidentally, the 32T oval also fouls on my custom Ti frame...in both cases I'm using SLX/XT cranks.


I can get an exact measurement and photo this weekend (I am at work right now) and post a picture, but there seems to be no issue with the 34t at all and the chainstay.


----------



## Pedalhead (Jul 14, 2005)

Good to know, thanks.


----------



## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

I have an XT triple I use 2x. Is it possible to mount 2 AB rings? Don't use a derailleur, but switch if I'm staying in the larger cogs long or need lower gears than 32x40.

So will the 26t interfere with a 32?


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

and now we need the "slim" NW oval rings for the eagle drive trains (for common crank systems like raceface's cinch, the new sram direct mount, 104bcd, etc.) good luck ab!


----------



## peterk123 (Oct 10, 2005)

Do you guys notice any difference with the oval chainrings when you have to pedal stab off a small drop? I wonder if you lose that "kick" when you have the pedal in the twelve o'clock position. Thx Pete


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

peterk123 said:


> Do you guys notice any difference with the oval chainrings when you have to pedal stab off a small drop? I wonder if you lose that "kick" when you have the pedal in the twelve o'clock position. Thx Pete


Did not notice it all.


----------



## GRAVELBIKE (Oct 7, 2006)

I've been running the aB 40T CX ring on my commuter/gravel rig, and I really like it. Makes it easier to switch between bikes when they both have oval rings (running their 28T on my MTB).


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Not noticed it, even deliberately trying to mash up a tech climb last week when I was testing an instant engagement rear hub. Other than being able to push a slightly larger chain ring for the same (perceived) effort the oval feeling disappears within 100-200 metres. Don't ever think about it any more.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

AB/Eagle 12sp compatibility?


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

I am pretty sure that Marcin Golec, CEO and founder of absoluteBlack, was aware that Eagle was in the offing (I know he knew about the impending release of the larger range cassette and I am guessing that he was constrained from revealing that it would be 12 speed at the time) when we were discussing expander cogs for XX1 cassettes last month. I am sure that there is something being designed and tested at the moment but no doubt the Ab forum rep will respond in due course.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Thanks, sounds good. Didn't go back that far in the thread to check.
Definitely interested in more OneBy range, riding in the Rockies, but not giving up my Oval!


----------



## wooly88 (Sep 1, 2009)

TheCanary said:


> AB/Eagle 12sp compatibility?


AB's site says that their Eagle compatible ring (for SRAM cranks) will be available in May. I sent an email asking when they'd introduce a Cinch compatible version. Will report back.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Sounds promising. The high Alpine climbs(and Descents!) won't open till the end of June, hopefully, everything will drop by then.


----------



## wooly88 (Sep 1, 2009)

Heard back from AB that their 12 speed compatible cinch ring will b available in a month.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Xlnt. Thx.


----------



## Oso Negro (Nov 27, 2006)

Getting ready to make the change for my YT Capra 1x11. Can anyone comment on the differences between the AB ring and the OneUp product.
Thanks for your time.


----------



## Berserker26 (Feb 13, 2014)

Hi friends, whats the consensus on the oval ring with a clutch rear derailleur - does the small movement have any affect on wear life?? Anything to be considered before getting one?


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Not as far as I can tell, seems to be wearing as well or slightly better than any other aftermarket chain ring I have run (Blackspire and North Shore Billet) and slightly better than the Raceface chainrings I used to run. Not quite as hard wearing as XTR chain rings but maybe imagining this as it is a bee's dick of difference.


----------



## MTBMILES (Dec 27, 2007)

AndrewBikeGuide said:


> Not as far as I can tell, seems to be wearing as well or slightly better than any other aftermarket chain ring I have run (Blackspire and North Shore Billet) and slightly better than the Raceface chainrings I used to run. Not quite as hard wearing as XTR chain rings but maybe imagining this as it is a bee's dick of difference.


I'm not sure but I think he's asking if the oval ring wears out a clutch derailleur prematurely.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

Ah not thought of his question from that angle. So is my oval chainring going to wear out my RD clutch more than smashing my bike down a rocky trail for 20 minutes at 25 kmph??? Simple answer: No! More accurate answer: Not so you would notice.


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

RD movement is minimal, and so far, no issues with Shimano RD clutch after 4 months. Go for it! This oval ring is like a secret weapon.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

We have a new product to share with you. If you know anyone who needs chain guide then send him the link over.

In short:
OVAL GUIDE™ chainguide is here. This is the only chainguide on the market that is designed specifically for Oval chainrings, keeping your chain secure at every single crank position. OVAL GUIDE™ has unique adjustable chainline from 48-53mm making it compatible with every single bike setup. Weighs virtually nothing*

This is the cooperation between AbsoluteBLACK and 77designz. We worked together for over a year to get you best changuide you could have for Oval chainrings.

This is THE only chain guide that will fully secure chain on the oval chainring. Others just secure it in 60% of the full rotation.
less than 22g 
all screws Titanium
Fits iscg05, iscg05-bsa, hdm and S3/e-type
Can be opened by hand on the trial in case of crash
has chainline adjustability between 48-53mm
Fits 26-34T oval ring

You may ask why you need one?
Some riders still feel safer using some form of additional retention apart of narrow-wide teeth. Especially on Enduro side of riding.

More photos and info here:
absoluteBLACK | OVAL Chain Guide ISCG05
absoluteBLACK | OVAL Chain Guide ISCG05 +BSA
absoluteBLACK | OVAL Chain Guide S3/E-type
absoluteBLACK | OVAL Chain Guide HDM


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

Why not add a plastic bashguard on the bottom?


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

this will be done in 3 more weeks


----------



## Averbuks (Oct 24, 2014)

Nice Oneup knockoff, strange video.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Averbuks said:


> Nice Oneup knockoff, strange video.


It's actually far more advanced than oneup and it actually works with oval rings like it should. The only knockoff here is Oneup with our oval rings






You can read more here:
First Look - AbsoluteBlack Oval Guide - Mountain Biking Australia magazine - bike reviews, tips, news, training


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Averbuks said:


> Nice Oneup knockoff, strange video.


Might want want to check your facts before spouting crap. 77 Designs have had mini chain guides out a lot longer than One Up.

This is similar to those same designs, just has a longer slider to better cover the chain on an oval ring


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

In case someone may mention that we copied 77designz now...
We actually cooperate with them on many levels as you can see in the above video. You can also learn about that on our page. 
"
AbsoluteBLACK and 77designz cooperation

This product is a brain child of two companies: Absoluteblack- oval chainrings expert and 77designz - MTB chain guides expert. Creating an outstanding product is never easy. Sometimes it requires a lot more brain power than single company can handle. At the beginning both companies were developing similar product independently, but close relationship proved that teaming up can lead to extraordinary results. This is how OVAL GUIDE™ was born.
"


----------



## projekZERO (Jan 9, 2014)

I have two rides on my AB oval ring. So far I have only noticed one change from switching to the oval ring.

I replaced a 30T round ring with a 30T oval ring. as far as effort and speed I can't say I feel an difference at all. I was hoping for increased climbing traction if anything, but unfortunately I put new tires on at the same time. I definitely have increased traction climbing, but I also have more traction descending so I cannot say what effect the oval ring has made. I should have installed the oval ring first.

What I have noticed is that when the grade of the trail I am on decreases, or the rolling resistant decreases so that speed increases, I feel the hub clunking (engaging) every crank rotation. I find it really quite annoying and I never noticed this with round rings. During climbs or when keeping a constant load there is no issues, it is only when your cadence starts to increase and pedal resistance decreases enough.

I know the simple answer is to upshift, but when this occurs I am not yet at a point where I need the next gear. I have ridden this trail easily over 500 times. It is to the point I know every inch of the trail, what gear to be in, and how much effort to give. I tried to upshift a few time to avoid the clunking hub, but the gear felt all wrong.

After the first ride, I grabbed the 54 tooth star ratchet (DT Swiss) from the 27.5 wheels and replaced the 36 tooth in my 29er. It was much better, but I still had clunking and felt I wasn't keeping up with the hub whenever the cadence increased a bit. Perhaps people with 120 tooth ratchets wont have this issue?

I started to think about why I am experiencing this and it easily makes sense. With the oval ring your stroke must speed up and slow down. When you are on the big part of the oval it is an effective 32 tooth and you rotate slower, but when you are the small part it is a 28 tooth and you must rotate the cranks faster to keep up with the rear wheel. I guess my legs are not keeping up when my cadence gets to a certain point. Or maybe my brain just hasn't adapted yet. It's not a horrible clunk or anything, very slight, but it disrupts my cadence and I can feel that I am not keeping the hub engaged through the whole pedal stroke.

I feel another part of the problem is the gear spacing is getting quite big now days with current drivetrains. I am running an XX1 rear cassette. If I had just a tad tighter spacing I would just shift to the next gear. However, with the wider spacing of my 11spd, I need to up my cadence a tad at times to stay in the "right" gear.

Anyway, I am going to give it more time as I hope it is just me needing to adapt, but so far I have only experienced a negative from switching to an oval ring, and haven't noted any positives yet. If I fail to adapt I might try Wolftooth as they seem to have less oval. Perhaps the AB just speeds up and slows down a little too much during a single rotation for my tastes.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I get no clunking even with 16poe.


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

I've an email from ab's owner (probably tehan here?) in my inbox that says their current oval ring is compat with eagle 12x. The one that will come out will just be in gold color to match the groupset. that'd better be true since i bought a new ring based on that instead of waiting lol.

Also, ive a dt240 with the default ratchet (18) and ive no issue whatsoever with the ring, though it does take a bit to engage (i dont really mind it tbh, even thus 36 would be a lil nicer/faster and i can def. feel the "delay" on 18.. its not a huge deal and the same on round rings of course)


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

projekZERO said:


> I have two rides on my AB oval ring. So far I have only noticed one change from switching to the oval ring.
> 
> I replaced a 30T round ring with a 30T oval ring. as far as effort and speed I can't say I feel an difference at all. I was hoping for increased climbing traction if anything, but unfortunately I put new tires on at the same time. I definitely have increased traction climbing, but I also have more traction descending so I cannot say what effect the oval ring has made. I should have installed the oval ring first.
> 
> ...


I've been riding a 32T oval for over a year. I think what you noticed is not uncommon, just that most people don't ride at a cadence where the hub disengagement occurs.

My guess is the actual cause is that as our cadence speed increases the dead-time (when one pedal it at bottom and other at top) isn't decreasing at the same rate as the speed of the down-stroke is increasing...and thus there is a time when we need to move the pedal faster for that section to keep up with the speed we are going. This discrepancy either is so small it's not noticeable at lower cadence or we already maximize the dead-time foot speed even at a lower cadence so when you speed up it becomes hard to make that one section even faster...at least without actual training/thought. Just a guess.

However, for me I notice the oval advantages most at very low cadence (under 50rpms), when I'm really churning up something slowly, it helps me get through the dead-point (one pedal up, one down, when you can't put out any power) quicker so I'm back into another power stroke. I can spin up to maybe ~100rpms comfortably (though don't have a cadence sensor on my mtn bike) but overall my bike ergonomics are not setup for high cadence riding, so I usually opt for a slower cadence if I have gears to facilitate it.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

projekZERO said:


> I have two rides on my AB oval ring. So far I have only noticed one change from switching to the oval ring.
> 
> I replaced a 30T round ring with a 30T oval ring. as far as effort and speed I can't say I feel an difference at all. I was hoping for increased climbing traction if anything, but unfortunately I put new tires on at the same time. I definitely have increased traction climbing, but I also have more traction descending so I cannot say what effect the oval ring has made. I should have installed the oval ring first.
> 
> ...


I noticed that the first time I had my bike on the trainer over the winter. After the first ride, it was gone.


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

I have used the AB oval chainrings in the 28t, 30t, and 32t sizes, and the 32t feels like it has a more even, or smoother, power delivery than the others, especially when climbing. Has anyone else noticed a difference in feel among the different sizes? I feel like the 32t is the most efficient overall, but I sometimes want the lower climbing gearing of the smaller sizes.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

jabrabu said:


> I have used the AB oval chainrings in the 28t, 30t, and 32t sizes, and the 32t feels like it has a more even, or smoother, power delivery than the others, especially when climbing. Has anyone else noticed a difference in feel among the different sizes? I feel like the 32t is the most efficient overall, but I sometimes want the lower climbing gearing of the smaller sizes.


This is because 32T suits best of your riding style.
If you try smaller ones and you should ride 32T then your cadence and pedal behavior changes as you were not used to such easy gear. Same happns on the Round rings. If you will use too small of a ring to your ability you will think that something is not right as it is too easy and your cadence is different.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Thanks guys for all the comments.

I see that there is a bit of confusion here with EAGLE 12spd.

ALL Absoluteblack current chainrings are already compatible with 12spd Eagle chains, cranks etc (drivetrain).

Reason for this is because chain did not change internally but only externally. Same happened when industry moved from 10 to 11spd (10 and 11spd chains are identical inside)
So 11spd chainring is exactly the same as 12spd one.

Sram had to change their current tooth design because they have a problem. Problem with Sram chainrings is they are stamped from soft material and wear very quickly. This wear created "hooks" on tip of each tooth. And those hooks caused chain suck very often only after 2 months of use (or very noisy work). So Sram removed part of the tooth that was responsible for this occurrence in the 12spd Eagle version.
But in our opinion this is not the best move, because there is now less material to hold the chain links from the start, so deformation may happen even sooner.


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

tehan said:


> This is because 32T suits best of your riding style.
> If you try smaller ones and you should ride 32T then your cadence and pedal behavior changes as you were not used to such easy gear. Same happns on the Round rings. If you will use too small of a ring to your ability you will think that something is not right as it is too easy and your cadence is different.


I'm not sure this makes sense to me, because regardless of chainring size I will choose a gear to get the cadence I want. So with a smaller ring I'll be running in the smaller cassette gears, and vice versa, so my cadence doesn't change based on chainring size. The only exception is grinding up a steep climb in my lowest gear, since with a smaller chainring that gear is easier and I can have a higher cadence.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

@projektZERO

The occurrence you have does not depend on POI of the hub. No matter how many poi you will get you will have same issue. You just need to use a bit harder gear as you pedal too light all the time - this is the only reason for your issue. This is extremely rare occurrence as you seem to always pedal on the wrong gear on the back to get this (too light).

Imagine 5% uphill. Normally if you would ride let say 32 front, 36T on the back it would give you great ger to pedal. If I would use on the same scenario 28 front and 42 back - I would have same problem as you do.

This is not related to oval ring. This will relate to any chainring , round or oval. You need to change your pedal behavior as you must pedal far too light gear to get this problem. For the rear hub to coast a little on the uphill or flat you need to have extremely easy gear and around 60-80 cadence. Anyone can technically replicate that problem using the lightest gear they have and try to ride on the flat road. Within few pedal strokes you will get hub to coast while you pedal still.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Point here is that most riders with too small ring will have too high cadence as gears are much easier to pedal. This may cause the effect you describe. 

If you used 32T round ring you should go 32T oval. We know based on statistical data what your average cadence will be in such configuration and design ring for this.

Same goes for any size we make. The smaller the size of the ring the different the cadence behavior is. Riders who need to use 28T ring have completely different ride behavior than someone who pedals 32T. Most of you don't realize this as you know only what you do and assume everyone does same thing.

We optimize each size of the ring for the behavior such rider will have. Smaller sizes have a bit bigger ovality for example for this reason. 

So if you normally use 32T round for long time then move to 32T oval and you will feel great. But if you normally ride 32T round and choose to ride 28T oval (even at same cadence as you did before) you will feel the difference (between 32 and 28T)
The difference is very subtle and you will only know about it if you actually try many sizes of oval rings like you just did. 

So for simplicity. If you used 32T round stick with 32T oval for best results and fantastic feeling. Don't use in this case 28T as you don't need to unless you go to Alps for a trip and grind uphills. But then change back to 32T once at your home trails.


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

tehan said:


> Point here is that most riders with too small ring will have too high cadence as gears are much easier to pedal. This may cause the effect you describe.
> 
> If you used 32T round ring you should go 32T oval. We know based on statistical data what your average cadence will be in such configuration and design ring for this.
> 
> ...


Great info...thanks!

I've only used the 32T and I love it, was chatting with some other bikers in a race last weekend...they noticed my oval ring and between gasps of air we had a short conversation about it...hopefully I convinced them to buy one.


----------



## projekZERO (Jan 9, 2014)

tehan said:


> @projektZERO
> 
> The occurrence you have does not depend on POI of the hub. No matter how many poi you will get you will have same issue. You just need to use a bit harder gear as you pedal too light all the time - this is the only reason for your issue. This is extremely rare occurrence as you seem to always pedal on the wrong gear on the back to get this (too light).
> 
> ...


This is a case of high cadence, but not quite as you say. I know fully well what too high of a cadence feels like, I have a single speed and ride it often. You can't avoid really high cadence on a single speed.

The problem I was experience was as a "higher" cadence, but not even close to where I would typically experience the hub not staying engaged. Not close at all.

It's also not the wrong gear. As I mentioned, these are brief moments on a trail I ride quite frequent where shifting up to the next gear as actually a touch too high. In addition, these are brief moments. This trail is short, about 11 miles (I usually do two loops), in the entire loop I maybe had 30 pedal strokes where I wasn't keeping the hub engaged. The longest period was maybe 5 or 6 strokes in succession. It's not like I was going most of the trail not able to keep the hub engaged.

I NEVER experienced this effect with a round ring and I am absolutely sure the oval ring has an effect. The ring has a 10%-14% oval, so of course the speed of the stroke is changing by an appropriate amount every rotation. It should go without saying that an oval ring will run into the problem I experienced at a slightly lower cadence than a round ring because at that given speed, your stroke must be 5% to 7% faster to keep the hub engaged (during the small part of the oval). Don't forget I went from a 30t round ring to a 30t oval, so apples to apples.

Also, the POE absolutely made a difference. It didn't change the fact that the hub didn't engage, as you said, but it does make the effect feel better since degrees of rotation to the next engage were reduced by 50%.

With all this said. I am happy to report that I have two more rides since my initial post, so 4 in total now. On the 3rd ride I didn't really experience the affect at all and the 4th ride was perfect. I wasn't purposely trying to adjust either, I think my brain and legs just finally connected the difference.

I think I am also starting to feel the traction benefits and it maybe slightly easier to grind out the steeper climbs (could also be placebo). So it is all starting to work out.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I've never experienced this on either of my 32t or 34t single speeds or the 1x9 36t, all running oval.
I think that if your muscle memory is turning your legs on autopilot, they could be turning a set, smooth cadence which is slightly out of step with the rise and drop in gearing of the oval and as you get more rides on the oval, you get more in sync with it.
Especially for single speeding, I wouldn't go back to round given the choice.


----------



## projekZERO (Jan 9, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> I've never experienced this on either of my 32t or 34t single speeds or the 1x9 36t, all running oval.
> I think that if your muscle memory is turning your legs on autopilot, they could be turning a set, smooth cadence which is slightly out of step with the rise and drop in gearing of the oval and as you get more rides on the oval, you get more in sync with it.
> Especially for single speeding, I wouldn't go back to round given the choice.


^^^ This is exactly what I suspect was going on. My "smooth" cadence was disrupted by the oval ring. I appear to be adjusting to it now though so all is good.


----------



## boubla (May 12, 2012)

I suspect that the lack of hooks on the eagle chainrings is what makes reviewers say they feel smoother and silent compared to regular XX1.
I suppose thats why sram did this. hopefully it does not wear too fast - but im also wondering if thats going to be something that feels "sufficiently better" for people to want "hookless" oval chainrings as well regardless of the wear


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

I have jumped into the world of oval chainrings in a couple of months ago with a Superstar Components 32t Oval chainring (MTB) and I also bought Rotor Q-rings for my road bike. I like them so far.

Now I have replaced the Sstar oval with a 32t Absolute Black Oval chainring (and also bought a 34t AB Oval for more "flat" races). 

My question would be, someone ever measured which Rotor OCP setting is closest to Absolute Black Oval's "ovality"? 

(I would like to set the closest Rotor OCP setting according to Absolute Black's ovality)

Thanks a lot for the info!


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

Just a little bit of feedback on absoluteBLACK as customer service:

I wanted to try an oval ring so I thought I'd rather order direct from them and not the BLACK series from CRC as I didn't want text on the ring.

I went on the website and there was an option for a m8000 XT 32T ring. Sweet, I thought, and I placed the order.

I got a confirmation email saying that it was going to be shipped with DHL and delivery was 2-3 days, even though it was ridiculously expensive (like 5-6 quid) for just a ring. You'd think that for so much money it would get here in 1 day but anyway...

The 3 days passed and I never received a tracking number so I thought I'd drop them an email.

The response was quick but not really good news. Apparently the ring was out of stock (!) so I had to either go for a red one (yuk) or wait 'about' 2 weeks for the black one I ordered!

You'd think that if something is out of stock, it shouldn't be on their website! And even if a mistake happens and it is on it, then they'd let you know as soon as you place the order! I had to ask them myself to find out...

I am going on business trip tomorrow and I wanted to ride today but no ring and no time to get another one delivered before I leave...

I asked them to either give me a partial discount for my order and then I'd wait the 2 weeks, or a full refund. Up to them. They decided to cancel my order and give me a full refund which is supposed to come in 2-3 working days.

Based on this awful service, I decided to go with OneUP's oval ring, coupled with their Bash taco guide which is oval ring optimized.

I really liked the effort and research absoluteBLACK seem to have put into this and I wanted to support them but they just lost a customer due to a bad service...

I hope that in the future they let CRC supply their normal chainrings so that we don't have to deal with them directly...

**NOTE**: I did not get to use their product so I am not commenting on that, but only on my experience with their shipping department. Their rings are quite possibly truly very good.


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

^ oh you're hard up aren't you? ZOMG not 5 quid for postage and more than 1 days wait!!11!! You've obviously been spoiled in the past and not had to deal with several week waits for postage into your country. I'm not surprised they cancelled your order when you tried to squeeze them for a discount.


----------



## garcia (Apr 10, 2008)

DimitrisCSD said:


> Just a little bit of feedback on absoluteBLACK as customer service:
> 
> I wanted to try an oval ring so I thought I'd rather order direct from them and not the BLACK series from CRC as I didn't want text on the ring.
> 
> ...


I can't believe that a small company with limited resources didn't have their inventory perfect on their website. Unacceptable, and they should have paid YOU to use their ring for the inconvenience.

Come on, man. They gave you a refund, no reason to complain that much, stuff happens, and no company is perfect.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

garcia said:


> I can't believe that a small company with limited resources didn't have their inventory perfect on their website. Unacceptable, and they should have paid YOU to use their ring for the inconvenience.
> 
> Come on, man. They gave you a refund, no reason to complain that much, stuff happens, and no company is perfect.


One thing I love about working for small companies- the owners aren't looking to get rich and fire certain customers :thumbsup:


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

OneUP is also a small company and their customer support is remarkable.

Having someone pay you full price in advance and then not even let them know you messed up and your website is all wrong is just plain terrible support and shows no respect towards the customer.

I have not been spoiled. When you pay someone for a service you expect exactly what you paid for. 2-3 Days shipping for an item advertised as in stock. Not 2-3 days of complete silence for an item that magically went out of stock and might or might no be available in half a month time.

P.S.: The absolute black website still shows the ring as "In Stock". They didn't even take the time to fix it.


----------



## Bahamut2119 (Apr 22, 2016)

I totally agree with him someone should of atleast emailed him asap about it being out of stock and not wait till he inquired to tell him.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Bahamut2119 said:


> I totally agree with him someone should of atleast emailed him asap about it being out of stock and not wait till he inquired to tell him.


In the years I spent in retail, normally there is more to the story, like forgetting to mention ordering it on a Friday night, then that 2-3 days is an email on Monday morning first thing saying why hasn't this shipped.

Always two sides to a story and when I read posts like his- take them with a big grain of salt, especially when my personal experience after 3 orders with them is completely different.


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> In the years I spent in retail, normally there is more to the story, like forgetting to mention ordering it on a Friday night, then that 2-3 days is an email on Monday morning first thing saying why hasn't this shipped.
> 
> Always two sides to a story and when I read posts like his- take them with a big grain of salt, especially when my personal experience after 3 orders with them is completely different.


Thanks for your experienced input. I'm sure what you say is true in most cases.

However, this one was ordered on a Wednesday. It doesn't even matter when it was ordered though, as they had none to send plus they didn't let me know that I just paid for something that wasn't available.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

First test ride done!  AB's ovality seems to be a bit different to SuperStar Components' Oval chainring ovality that I replaced with. So far so good. 
Test ride, power meter data measured with Stages Power Meter. It's a low intensity ride in HR zone 'GA1' (according to Coggan's level, it's Z2): https://www.strava.com/activities/601220451
Tomorrow I will try the Z3 and VO2Max + sprints as well, we will see, how the Watts will come compared to the old chainring.









Update @ 08.06.2016:
--------------------------
some MTB fartlek from today morning: https://www.strava.com/activities/602361322

I have that feeling I'm a bit faster with lower Wattages. Maybe my Stages Power Meter is kidding with me, I don't know. 

Anyone compared Watt-data for round chainring vs. Oval with a power meter like Power2Max, SRM or Quarq which have 'true' two-leg measurements?


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

If anyone would be interested; I tried to compare my spare 34t Absolute Black Oval chainring with a 36t Rotor Q-Ring. I don't have any tool for doing precise measurements, nevertheless the elliptical shape looks the same if we come from the point of degrees (in other words, Q-Ring and AB Oval have similar positions if we take the crankarm as a fixed position). The only difference is the ovality itself. The major axis of 34t AB Oval is almost the same as Q-Ring's 36t. Obviously, AB Oval's minor axis is shorter.

Hope this information will be useful to someone who also has Rotor on her/his other bike.


----------



## client_9 (Apr 28, 2009)

Has anyone used the AB 32t Oval (104bcd) w/ the Blackspire Bruiser taco guard?

Due to the oval shape of the ring, do I want the 26-32t size bashguard? 
Or the 32-38t size guard?

The widest diameter of the 32t oval is 143mm (tip to tip of tooth)

*EDIT - Got off the phone, w/ Blackspire, w/ a 32t oval chainring, a 34t bashguard is what you need *


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

client_9 said:


> Has anyone used the AB 32t Oval (104bcd) w/ the Blackspire Bruiser taco guard?
> 
> Due to the oval shape of the ring, do I want the 26-32t size bashguard?
> Or the 32-38t size guard?
> ...


Yes to using Blackspire.

The 32T Oval is 34T at the largest point. absoluteBLACK state that fairly clearly on their website.

You need the 34T Bruiser. I would highly recommend the Trail-X as the top guide is a reassuring presence for very little weight difference.


----------



## Rudy102 (Apr 1, 2009)

Hi guys Newbe here :

I have read the first 15 pages. I have just ordered the 28T. Its recommended that you buy a new chain. 
So my question is .... should i stick with my original setup and go 1x10 and just buy a new chain or should go 1x11 and upgrade cassette and chain to a XT M8000 ? 
Is any one here using a 28t with a Shimano XT M8000 cassette and chain ? If they are how is the shifting / back peddling ? 
Thats for all the help guys


----------



## MINImtnbiker (Mar 2, 2004)

*32T round for 32T oval on singlespeed*



tehan said:


> Point here is that most riders with too small ring will have too high cadence as gears are much easier to pedal. This may cause the effect you describe.
> 
> If you used 32T round ring you should go 32T oval. We know based on statistical data what your average cadence will be in such configuration and design ring for this.
> 
> ...


I have been riding 32x20 on my singlespeed for 6+ years here in Colorado where it is very rocky and technical. I just put a 32T AB oval ring on and one observation is that rocky technical sections, where I must normally stand, were a bit more difficult. I stalled out several times where I just couldn't push the gear. I think this is because it's an effective 34T on the power stroke. I'm now wondering about going to a 30T so I have an effective 32T for the steep technical sections. I'd love your input here...


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

Rudy102 said:


> Hi guys Newbe here :
> 
> I have read the first 15 pages. I have just ordered the 28T. Its recommended that you buy a new chain.
> So my question is .... should i stick with my original setup and go 1x10 and just buy a new chain or should go 1x11 and upgrade cassette and chain to a XT M8000 ?
> ...


I used a 28t with XT M8000 cassette and chain. Shifting was great. Couldn't backpedal in the largest rear cog, but that's not the fault of the chainring.


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

MINImtnbiker said:


> I have been riding 32x20 on my singlespeed for 6+ years here in Colorado where it is very rocky and technical. I just put a 32T AB oval ring on and one observation is that rocky technical sections, where I must normally stand, were a bit more difficult. I stalled out several times where I just couldn't push the gear. I think this is because it's an effective 34T on the power stroke. I'm now wondering about going to a 30T so I have an effective 32T for the steep technical sections. I'd love your input here...


That might work for you. I actually went the opposite way, though. I was running a round 30t on my singlespeed and installed an AB oval 32t in its place. It was a little harder on really steep climbs, but I felt like the extra leverage allowed me to push the 32t oval more easily than a 32t round.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

Two years ago, I rode my SingleSpeed with normal rings (that was 32x21), therefore I don't have experience with oval rings on Sspeed.
However, I can share you an interesting observation that I have recently noticed and this might be useful for singlespeeders as well. (May confirm that also, switching from 32 round to 30t oval can be a solution for very technical climbs, if you are a singlespeeder.)

After I switched to oval chainring, I started to spin more and more. My Garmin and Stava log files also confirm this and the change is not only a minor but a major change. 
When I rode my MTB with normal rings, the cadence average was between 73-77 for an MTB ride. Usually I climbed between 65-75 rpm which is relatively slow cadence. Now, the average cad is changed to 75-90 rpm during my mtb rides and I rarely climb below 75 rpm (exceptions are only those climbs which are very technical). On not-to-technical climbs, usually I climb on 80-90 rpm with the oval ring, even on very high Watt/kgs climbs, where I climb with 4.5-5.2 W/kgs.

Test data with 32t round chainring, 76rpm average: https://www.strava.com/activities/567022947
Test data with 32t Absolute Black oval, 86 rpm average: https://www.strava.com/activities/602361322


----------



## j0hn (May 27, 2011)

semmiho, how do your times compare? If they are not significantly different, is there any reason to think that a higher cadence is better? Or do you find it more comfortable? I'm not trying to be negative, just curious.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

j0hn said:


> semmiho, how do your times compare? If they are not significantly different, is there any reason to think that a higher cadence is better? Or do you find it more comfortable? I'm not trying to be negative, just curious.


Very good point. At the moment, I'm collecting data to see which other factors might influence the climbing speed, before I dive into the cadence question. I would like to eliminate these factors to see whether a higher cadence helps me on climbs or not.
Only for example, I had doubts regarding my power measurement data as well: the hypothesis was that, my Stages Power Meter reports ~5% more power with the AB oval ring.
But I have proved it, it is false. In more detail, if you are interested:
An example from yesterday, AB oval ring: 7:52 time, 85 rpm, 378 Watts: https://www.strava.com/activities/615798524/segments/15030136128
a bit earlier, round ring: 7:43, 73 rpm, 386 Watts: https://www.strava.com/activities/574422292#13937654453

If I simply take the 7:52 time and calculate: (7:52 in secs / 7:43 in secs) / * 378 Watts = 385.35 Watts --> which means, if we exclude outer factors like the wind, my Stages Power Meter measures Wattages correctly with oval rings. I need to produce the very same Watts in average (385.35 Watts for 7:43) to achieve the same climbing time on the same segment.
Ensuring about that, my power meter measures the same Watts is very important, otherwise I could only guessing.

But back to the cadence:

on (relatively) good quality terrain, I hardly can see any difference in climbing time. If I climb with 70 rpm and produce 300 Watts, I suppose that the climbing time is similar to the time that I could do on - for example - 85 rpm with same Watts (300). The example I mentioned above also confirms it and I have another examples.
I assume that, on rocky terrain with roots, higher cadence *might* help to climb better because on higher cadence, rocks and roots may not slows you down that much and you can keep the momentum a bit more easily. But I need to prove this with those magic Watts. 

Yes, with the oval ring the higher cadence is more convenient to my legs, especially in Z2 and Z3 (Coggan's), sometimes in Z4 as well.

An another interesting theme. To me, at least.  I cannot decide whether it is in connection with oval rings or not: yesterday I did my first KOM ride this year (yep, latter is usually better) and according to the Power Curve my CP2 Watts improved by 49 Watts compared to last year. I think this change is too much, since I haven't done any special crosstraining (apart from some running in winter) and I haven't done any weight lifting and similar trainings to build up some more muscles. For reference, here is my last CP2 measurement: https://www.strava.com/activities/615798524/power-curve/120
Okay, the cadence was relatively low during this (76 rpm in average), however this was done on a tricky, partly technical and rocky section which has 21% steep in average. Would be good to know, the oval ring helped me.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

semmiho said:


> Very good point. At the moment, I'm collecting data to see which other factors might influence the climbing speed, before I dive into the cadence question. I would like to eliminate these factors to see whether a higher cadence helps me on climbs or not.
> Only for example, I had doubts regarding my power measurement data as well: the hypothesis was that, my Stages Power Meter reports ~5% more power with the AB oval ring.
> But I have proved it, it is false. In more detail, if you are interested:
> An example from yesterday, AB oval ring: 7:52 time, 85 rpm, 378 Watts: https://www.strava.com/activities/615798524/segments/15030136128
> ...


It sounds like there is some rad science going on semmiho. I think power measurements are going to be key to whatever conclusions you come up with so wanted to throw my 2 cents in. As a general rule there is a cubic relationship between speed and power - that is to say that to double your speed you need eight times the power (2^3 = 8).

Below is all theoretical so it is just for you to think about/explain your findings as you continue looking at the numbers.

For you to match the speed of your faster attempt you would need to go 1.9% faster. To go 1.9% faster you would need to output 6.86% more power (1.9^3). That means that if you had achieved the same time while using the oval ring your power meter would likely have read ~404W or 4.6% higher than while using the round ring.

This is inline with what stages themselves say about power measurements on oval rings:

Stages Support: Can I use the Stages with oval or Osymetric chain rings? : Stages Cycling

"Our power measurement through a Stages Power meter is event based, where as an event is one complete pedal revolution. Due to the changes in velocity non-round chain rings produce through the course of an 'event' you will see that your power will be skewed higher than with a round ring, which has a constant velocity throughout each event. Through our own testing, and using a hub-based meter as a control, we conclude that there will be a 4-5% increase on the readings from a Stages Power meter when used with a non-round chain rings. We recommend that our customers take this into account when changing from round to non-round chain rings, as they may need to adjust their functional threshold power accordingly. "

I hope it helps.
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

You are absolutely right, thanks for guiding me to the right direction. I was too fast with that simple 2-min Excel calculation. I showed that, what happens if I don't look after the things. So lame I was!... 
I saw Stages' website, actually that's where I also found ~5% earlier. I was wondering why my calculation proved something totally different, now it's clear.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

semmiho said:


> You are absolutely right, thanks for guiding me to the right direction. I was too fast with that simple 2-min Excel calculation. I showed that, what happens if I don't look after the things. So lame I was!...
> I saw Stages' website, actually that's where I also found ~5% earlier. I was wondering why my calculation proved something totally different, now it's clear.


Not lame at all. Stoked to see real world accounts like this. Keep it up.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Just tried a 34t last night for the first time. For the first .5 mile it felt weird, but the feeling went away. My legs feel great today, time will tell where a difference can be felt.


----------



## Graveldad (Mar 31, 2015)

MBA has a test this month.. The picture shows the ring mounted wrong, it's 90 deg off.. Facepalm..


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

boubla said:


> I suspect that the lack of hooks on the eagle chainrings is what makes reviewers say they feel smoother and silent compared to regular XX1.
> I suppose thats why sram did this. hopefully it does not wear too fast - but im also wondering if thats going to be something that feels "sufficiently better" for people to want "hookless" oval chainrings as well regardless of the wear


Sram has changed the design and created Eagle rings because they had problems with their original design. Rings after only few months use were catching the chain links on release (at the bottom) and that crated a bad noise and unpleasant experience.
But this is all because of using a softer alloy that easily could be damaged by the chain. So Sram took off the edges of each teeth that created a problem in the past. But now they also decreased the surface where the chain roller presses against the teeth. This only asks for more wear in shorter time...

Absoluteblack chainrings use a lot "harder" alloy that does not deform under pedalling so easily. Our teeth design is also different from Sram. Hence we do not have this problem at all. This is why we don't see a need for any changes to our design as it works great already.

So if anyone wonders, ALL our current chainrings are compatible with Eagle drivetrain as they are now. We don't have to make any changes.
Eagle chain is a bit narrower but only from the outside. Inside (so how chainring is seeing the chain) has not changed.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi,
Sorry about this. 
Due to our popularity we sometimes run out of stock. This happens to everyone. We proud ourselves to make best oval chainring market has seen. Mostly we are manufacturers suppling lots of distributors, shops and private customers. And sometimes demand is so big that we run out of stock.

We do best products we can, with best quality possible. We DO NOT make our products in Taiwan like Oneup. 
We take time sourcing best material possible from Germany, Produce them in our manufacturing plant in Poland (where we check quality of every single piece) and then anodize them in UK just because this is the best anodizer in entire Europe with all environmental certificates. This takes time. But we do this because we believe in quality. We even make paper packaging ourselves as we don't want to use plastic...


We could make our products in Taiwan, from cheap and poor quality aluminium and anodize them in same factory where there are almost no standards how you handle dangerous chemicals (they end up in rivers mostly).
We could bring them by containers to Europe, and then realize some of them are made out of spec (this always happens in TW), but still sell them to customers because you can't ship them back once landed....

But we don't do this. 

I am sorry we are sometimes out of stock. But I can promise you it's worth a short wait. We made a refund for you as you probably requested it as your preferable option.

Marcin


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

semmiho said:


> Very good point. At the moment, I'm collecting data to see which other factors might influence the climbing speed, before I dive into the cadence question. I would like to eliminate these factors to see whether a higher cadence helps me on climbs or not.
> Only for example, I had doubts regarding my power measurement data as well: the hypothesis was that, my Stages Power Meter reports ~5% more power with the AB oval ring.
> But I have proved it, it is false. In more detail, if you are interested:
> An example from yesterday, AB oval ring: 7:52 time, 85 rpm, 378 Watts: https://www.strava.com/activities/615798524/segments/15030136128
> ...


Hi,
Interesting points, but I would like to add a bit more to the mix. 
There is one more variable with any power meter you need to take into account - temperature.

I know Stages has the temperature compensation algorithm, but it takes some time to adapt. I mean crank temperature needs to normalize once your bike is outdoors so the strain gauges has same temperature as air temperature and as crank. Otherwise your readings will be different. 
For example, If you left the bike on the sun and then ride in the woods, you will get different readings over next 20 or so min. Your readings will be changing as crank temperature will be dropping during your ride. Especially on such short time measurement like 8 minutes. Same if you take a bike from warm house outside where temperature is let say 10deg lower.

In general science behind oval rings is to increase smoothness of your pedal stroke. This leads to improved cadence. And bigger cadence improves your speed.

Reason why most power meters reads 2-3% higher with oval rings is simply because they take average torque per revolution (which is not a good assumption with oval rings) but sample cadence in many points on one rotation. This leads to misreadings because at every point of rotation with oval rings cadence is a bit different. It's not constant. 
To make it very accurate one needs to measure torque and cadence in same exact points of rotation. Not give just one value of torque per revolution.

Good news is that once switched to oval rings your readings are as consistent as with round rings. They just constantly read 2-3% higher. Once you know this it is easy to adjust your future training.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Graveldad said:


> MBA has a test this month.. The picture shows the ring mounted wrong, it's 90 deg off.. Facepalm..


Hi, Yes we noticed it as well. They just made a photo wrong. They will issue a correction and another review with our oval guide next month I believe.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

DimitrisCSD said:


> OneUP is also a small company and their customer support is remarkable.
> 
> Having someone pay you full price in advance and then not even let them know you messed up and your website is all wrong is just plain terrible support and shows no respect towards the customer.
> 
> ...


Dear Dimitrios M,
Because we don't have such issues often I actually found you in our database and found whole conversation you have had with my dispatch team.

*You have ordered chainring on 3rd June, On Friday at 00.25AM at night.
*My dispatch team wrote you on Monday 6th June at 10AM that we are out of stock and that we propose you to receive red instead of black or alternatively wait about two weeks for the black.
* You replied 2 hours later :
"I don't want a red ring. I want a black one as that's what I ordered.
2 options here:
a) You give me a discount because of the lack of information and wasting my time with no notice. I wait 2 weeks for the black one (hopefully 2 weeks, not longer)
b) You give me a full refund, cancel the order and I go ahead and buy an OneUP ring which will be here tomorrow."

So I am not sure why you say that you were not informed. Most companies do not work Saturday, Sunday. We usually run one day behind in case there are any changes to the order by customer which is common.

I am sorry you were not satisfied with our service.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

DimitrisCSD said:


> Thanks for your experienced input. I'm sure what you say is true in most cases.
> 
> However, this one was ordered on a Wednesday. It doesn't even matter when it was ordered though, as they had none to send plus they didn't let me know that I just paid for something that wasn't available.


As I just pointed above you have ordered the chainring on Friday night at 00.25AM.
My dispatch team wrote you first an email on Monday 10AM letting you know item was out of stock.

I know you are upset because of lack of stock of the item you ordered. But stating different story in a rant to what actually happen is a little unfair.

We understand that after purchase everyone wants to get new item as soon as possible. But sometimes demand outstrips supply. This happens when products are very successful due to their function. We appreciate it, really.

We also do everything what we can to keep up and make our customers happy. It's a constant challenge and along the way we may make also few people unhappy. We are sorry for this.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

:thumbsup:


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Rudy102 said:


> Hi guys Newbe here :
> 
> I have read the first 15 pages. I have just ordered the 28T. Its recommended that you buy a new chain.
> So my question is .... should i stick with my original setup and go 1x10 and just buy a new chain or should go 1x11 and upgrade cassette and chain to a XT M8000 ?
> ...


to move to 1x11 you need actually, chain cassette, shifter and rear mech. So if you have enough cash go for it.

If not then buy new 10 or 11spd chain for your drivetrain and you will do great as well.

28T is one of more popular sizes these days so there is plenty of people using it with XT, XX1 and other drivetrains. It works great.


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

tehan said:


> *As I just pointed above you have ordered the chainring on Friday night at 00.25AM*.
> My dispatch team wrote you first an email on Monday 10AM letting you know item was out of stock.
> 
> *I know you are upset because of lack of stock of the item you ordered. But stating different story in a rant to what actually happen is a little unfair. *
> ...


I don't know why you really insist on making this even more embarrassing for you. But since you want to go this way, it's fine with me.

Attached is a version of my paypal logs proving that my order was placed on June 2 (Thursday). *My mistake for saying it was a Wednesday*. Friday night at 0.25 as you state would be June 4 (first minutes of Saturday).

I don't know how slow your people are in noticing new orders, but I know for certain when I paid, and as you can see on the screenshot, it's not on Friday!

The team should have sent an email saying that the website was wrong and they don't have the item as soon as they saw the order. Not the following Monday! Furthermore, from the screenshot you can see that it took you half a month (15 days) to refund the money, even though your email said 3-5 working days. I had to send another email to ask what's going on to get that done. I'm sure you can find that in your logs!









And just in case you don't believe paypal's logs, here are some from your own website:









Regarding the bold part of the quote: Of course I am upset since your site clearly states that the item was "IN-STOCK". We all know what in stock is supposed to mean, I'm not going to try to explain.

As you and everybody else can see, I am not the one who is "stating different story in a rant to what actually happen".

Honestly, I don't have anything against you or your company, and as I explained in my first post, I tried to support you and what you are doing. I just had a bad customer service experience and I shared it. Accept that you messed up (hopefully just this one time) and move on.

If you want a piece of honest and constructive feedback, I believe you guys should look into making your whole range available through CRC. It will just make everything easier both for you and your customers.

P.S.: I don't work for OneUP don't be ridiculous! I write software for a living and I live in the UK!


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi,
your order was placed on Friday 3 Jun 00:24:59 European Central time (orders are dispatched from Poland as stated on website and there is also dispatch team located). In UK where you live it was Thursday night 2 Jun 2016 23:24:59 BST to be specific.
So you did place the order on Friday at 00.25AM if we are objective. There is 1h time difference between UK and rest of Europe.

Like I stated we are extremely busy and usually run 1 day behind the order was placed. This also gives customer time to change things. This happens quite often saving our customers from sending the ring back and forth. Dispatch team got to your order first thing on Monday morning. 

Yes you had a bit of delay in the refund. We are sorry for this. This is again related to the effort we do to deliver what customers order.

I will not comment any further on this as I think all is clear now. I am truly sorry you are not happy with the service you received. 
We are constantly improving things by taking more people and machines on board. This will of course drive the prices up a bit in some time to meet all your expectations timely as we don't make our products in TW.

Marcin


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

tehan said:


> Hi,
> your order was placed on Friday 3 Jun 00:24:59 European Central time (orders are dispatched from Poland as stated on website and there is also dispatch team located). In UK where you live it was Thursday night 2 Jun 2016 23:24:59 BST to be specific.
> So you did place the order on Friday at 00.25AM if we are objective. There is 1h time difference between UK and rest of Europe.
> 
> ...


Ok. I hope you realize that when you say Friday Night, that usually means the next night not the first hours of Friday.

Anyway, I realize that the order showed up on your system the next morning (Friday) and that's why I believe there should have been an email saying that it was unavailable. Not next Monday...

I am done posting about this here as well. I think it is now clear as to what happened.

I also understand that problems can show up every now and then. I never bashed you saying that your service is ALWAYS like that, I just shared my story, which I hope is fair enough.

On the other hand, I do not like it when people say I am spreading false stories on "rants", so I am going to suppose you made that comment out of frustration.

It's all good. I wish you and your company all the best and I hope you do well. I would definitely be willing to try some of your products in the future, just through a store and not direct.


----------



## kmjelle (Nov 29, 2007)

*What size should I choose?*
*_ 26T (64BCD) Oval chainring has the ovality of 24/28T and is best for someone who uses currently 26T round ring.

* 28T (64BCD) Oval chainring has the ovality of 26/30T and is best for someone who uses currently 27 or 28T round ring.
_[HR][/HR]*So, a 26T oval will feel like a 28T round when my crank arm has the most tourque/lever: straight forward/horisontal?*


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

kmjelle said:


> *What size should I choose?*
> *_ 26T (64BCD) Oval chainring has the ovality of 24/28T and is best for someone who uses currently 26T round ring.
> 
> * 28T (64BCD) Oval chainring has the ovality of 26/30T and is best for someone who uses currently 27 or 28T round ring.
> _[HR][/HR]*So, a 26T oval will feel like a 28T round when my crank arm has the most tourque/lever: straight forward/horisontal?*


26T oval will feel close to 25T round if your cadence is over 50rpm. But you should be able to get the speed close to 28T round equivalent.

If you pedal really slow (like sub 30rpm) then it will feel like 27T round. This is simply because part of the 26T oval chainring is of 28T round equivalent. But this is not the case with such small sizes.

If your cadence is normal you actually feel that it is a lot easier to pedal oval ring of same size as your current round one.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

TwoTone said:


> In the years I spent in retail, normally there is more to the story, like forgetting to mention ordering it on a Friday night, then that 2-3 days is an email on Monday morning first thing saying why hasn't this shipped.
> 
> Always two sides to a story and when I read posts like his- take them with a big grain of salt, especially when my personal experience after 3 orders with them is completely different.


Seems I pretty much called this one right :thumbsup:


----------



## kmjelle (Nov 29, 2007)

tehan said:


> 26T oval will feel close to 25T round if your cadence is over 50rpm. But you should be able to get the speed close to 28T round equivalent.
> 
> If you pedal really slow (like sub 30rpm) then it will feel like 27T round. This is simply because part of the 26T oval chainring is of 28T round equivalent. But this is not the case with such small sizes.
> 
> If your cadence is normal you actually feel that it is a lot easier to pedal oval ring of same size as your current round one.


I use shorter than average crank arms, 165mm, because I like to spin at 90rpm rather than grind. Currently I use 28T (round) x 11-36. Just go for 28T when I buy an oval then? I find that 30T is too big for some of my local long steep climbs.


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

TwoTone said:


> Seems I pretty much called this one right :thumbsup:


Not quite!

Seems like you either didn't read all of the posts or you believe that Thursday night means Friday night :thumbsup: :nono:

Well done!


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

^28 pages of success then this guy comes along to cry about an order being ONE FREAKING BUSINESS DAY BEHIND. Enough already man, get over it. One day isn't going to prevent you from taking that epic mountain bike trip you planned on taking...and if it did you learned your lesson on procrastination. 

Anywho, I have got a few rides in and just completed a race with the 34t ring and I must say I am really liking it (or should I say my legs are really liking it?). I have long femurs and run a setback post w/ saddle pushed back a little from center. I have struggled with feeling a lot of pressure right above my knees while climbing seated, and have honestly noticed a lot of the pressure and post race stiffness/muscle soreness is gone. 

So far I am sold and have to thank AB for venturing back down the dreaded biopace path and correctly engineering this product. Looks like I know where I will be buying my rings from now on!


----------



## garcia (Apr 10, 2008)

I think we should all boycott AB because they were a day late in noticing out of stock, clearly this should not be allowed! All companies MUST perform like amazon.com!

In seriousness, I have an XT 32 oval mounted on my SS, taking it on a maiden voyage later this AM. Swapped my gearing from 30x18 to 32x21, so little lower which hurts the option of direct comparison, but I really want a break on the climbs while I get in "SS" shape... Quick jaunt around the neighborhood and it felt a little odd, but I think I am already used to it.


----------



## kmjelle (Nov 29, 2007)

What is the general consensus; do people run with the same tooth number on ovals as round chainrings? Or do they buy bigger or smaler oval ones?


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

kmjelle said:


> What is the general consensus; do people run with the same tooth number on ovals as round chainrings? Or do they buy bigger or smaler oval ones?


I went bigger, from a 32T round to a 34T oval. Multiple reason on doing this though. FS to HT, 36 large cog to 42 large cog, was not sure the 32T would work on my XT cranks and Niner Sir 9.


----------



## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> ^28 pages of success then this guy comes along to cry about an order being ONE FREAKING BUSINESS DAY BEHIND. Enough already man, get over it. One day isn't going to prevent you from taking that epic mountain bike trip you planned on taking...and if it did you learned your lesson on procrastination.
> 
> Anywho, I have got a few rides in and just completed a race with the 34t ring and I must say I am really liking it (or should I say my legs are really liking it?). I have long femurs and run a setback post w/ saddle pushed back a little from center. I have struggled with feeling a lot of pressure right above my knees while climbing seated, and have honestly noticed a lot of the pressure and post race stiffness/muscle soreness is gone.
> 
> So far I am sold and have to thank AB for venturing back down the dreaded biopace path and correctly engineering this product. Looks like I know where I will be buying my rings from now on!





garcia said:


> I think we should all boycott AB because they were a day late in noticing out of stock, clearly this should not be allowed! All companies MUST perform like amazon.com!
> 
> In seriousness, I have an XT 32 oval mounted on my SS, taking it on a maiden voyage later this AM. Swapped my gearing from 30x18 to 32x21, so little lower which hurts the option of direct comparison, but I really want a break on the climbs while I get in "SS" shape... Quick jaunt around the neighborhood and it felt a little odd, but I think I am already used to it.


Some people are just funny...

Listen. Nobody asked you to boycott anything. You're a grown child and you can make decisions for yourself.

The problem here is not (just) the 1 day delayed order processing. It's the fact that something that's clearly OUT OF STOCK is being displayed as in stock on the website, and nobody even lets you know that something is obviously WRONG on that site, until you chase them!

Even after all this talk on here and all the emails back and forth with the customer support, the ring was still being shown as IN STOCK.

If you believe its absolutely fine to pay for something that is supposedly in stock, only to find out that it will be with you not in the 2-3 advertised days but in half a month time (at best) then great. For me it is unacceptable.

I hate going around in circles about this just because some people just can't read and comprehend a few posts, so this will be my last one regarding this matter.

This is a free market and everybody can buy whatever they want from whoever they want. I just shared my own experience.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

DimitrisCSD said:


> Not quite!
> 
> Seems like you either didn't read all of the posts or you believe that Thursday night means Friday night :thumbsup: :nono:
> 
> Well done!





jonshonda said:


> ^28 pages of success then this guy comes along to cry about an order being ONE FREAKING BUSINESS DAY BEHIND. Enough already man, get over it. One day isn't going to prevent you from taking that epic mountain bike trip you planned on taking...and if it did you learned your lesson on procrastination.
> 
> Anywho, I have got a few rides in and just completed a race with the 34t ring and I must say I am really liking it (or should I say my legs are really liking it?). I have long femurs and run a setback post w/ saddle pushed back a little from center. I have struggled with feeling a lot of pressure right above my knees while climbing seated, and have honestly noticed a lot of the pressure and post race stiffness/muscle soreness is gone.
> 
> So far I am sold and have to thank AB for venturing back down the dreaded biopace path and correctly engineering this product. Looks like I know where I will be buying my rings from now on!





garcia said:


> I think we should all boycott AB because they were a day late in noticing out of stock, clearly this should not be allowed! All companies MUST perform like amazon.com!
> 
> In seriousness, I have an XT 32 oval mounted on my SS, taking it on a maiden voyage later this AM. Swapped my gearing from 30x18 to 32x21, so little lower which hurts the option of direct comparison, but I really want a break on the climbs while I get in "SS" shape... Quick jaunt around the neighborhood and it felt a little odd, but I think I am already used to it.


Yea I think I nailed it.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

let me know what crank you have exactly and I will let you know what you should get.


----------



## kmjelle (Nov 29, 2007)

Xtr 980 88bcd which I prefer. But also XT 64bcd (removed 104bcd holes).


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

kmjelle said:


> What is the general consensus; do people run with the same tooth number on ovals as round chainrings? Or do they buy bigger or smaler oval ones?


It's best to stick to same size. If this is the only part that is going to be changed buy same size of an oval ring as you have round. Don't go one size up. This is my good advice (unless you know what you are doing exactly).

If your current round ring feels a little too hard, then buy oval ring that is one size smaller. It will be a lot better for you in such case.

This is the best way to start with oval rings. 
Once you become stronger with oval ring and there will be time to replace it again you can venture to a size bigger.


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

88bcd is dead so no rings for this. Also for that bcd it would be impossible to make 28T oval. It would not fit.

But 64bcd is no problem. 
absoluteBLACK | OVAL 104 / 64BCD Traction Chainring


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

I don't like posting to forums with any form of negativity, but I also don't appreciate being directly libeled by another company. In the last few weeks absoluteBLACK has publicly stated that we have copied their designs, produced parts using poor quality material, and insinuated that we would intentionally sell out-of-spec parts. I'm not looking for an argument here; I just want to present some facts.



tehan said:


> Absoluteblack chainrings use a lot "harder" alloy that does not deform under pedalling so easily.


I hardness tested an AB ring in-house. The Rockwell B hardness was 93.5 for AB and 94 for OneUp. Both are well within spec for the 7075 aluminum used commonly in the bike industry.









Our oval rings are as different to AB as AB is different to every other oval ring on the market. Non-biopace oval mtb rings have been around for a long time (Most notably from Rotor as far back as 2009 - here). It's the 1X revolution that has led to the spike in oval popularity (no need for FD compatibility) not the slight tweak to the design that any one company has made.

We were not aware of 77designz when we designed our chainguide. You may notice the height adjustment system and chainline adjustment system are completely different. Our guide also has more chainline adjustment and was the first to be specifically designed for both Boost and Oval compatibility. No other guide that I'm aware of could claim this much compatibility at the time we launched.



tehan said:


> We do best products we can, with best quality possible. We DO NOT make our products in Taiwan like Oneup. We take time sourcing best material possible from Germany, Produce them in our manufacturing plant in Poland (where we check quality of every single piece) and then anodize them in UK just because this is the best anodizer in entire Europe with all environmental certificates. This takes time. But we do this because we believe in quality&#8230;


I have nothing bad to say about the quality of AB rings but take exception to the idea that parts manufactured in Taiwan are by default a lower quality product. We have a collective 26 years of experience sourcing products from TW so have a network of very dialed, very quality conscious vendors.



tehan said:


> We could bring them by containers to Europe, and then realize some of them are made out of spec (this always happens in TW), but still sell them to customers because you can't ship them back once landed....


In the rare case of issues, defects are caught and corrected on the factory floor by our inline QC. Small shipments arrive in Canada and are double checked in-house. We would never intentionally ship a sub-par product to a customer and stand behind everything we sell.

At the end of the day OneUp Components is five friends that love to ride bikes. We're dedicated to offering great products and genuine value to other mountain bikers. We'd love your support, but recognize that having so many small companies making great product can only be good for the industry. Get outside and enjoy the day, adventure is only a pedal away.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

Well said Jon :thumbsup:


----------



## xcbarny (Jun 10, 2009)

I think its great that we now have so many Oval chainring options from great companies. Back in 2009 when I first start using Ovals, it was Q-Rings or nothing, and were they expensive!

Unfortunately, Rotor seem to have dropped the ball with reguard to price and compatability for single ring options, but that has cleared the way for other manufacturers to fill this gap in the market, meaning prices have become a lot more reasonable, and there's a multitude of fittment options.

Unfortunately, this has meant a lot more local riders getting the benefits of oval chainrings, so I no longer have the advantage that I once had .


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Jon,
We discussed parts of this already via email long time ago.
For so many years Rotor was the only company that made oval rings successfully. 
We were brave enough and risked over 2 years developing our own version and vision of oval chainring. It was challenging.

It also took us great deal of hard work to convince riders to try it due to Biopace past issues as we know by looking at the beginning of every single oval topic on this forum.

When we finally started to pick the attention (after months since launch) and feedback was super positive few other companies "suddenly" had their own version of the oval... in such a short time frame.

Competition is good for everyone as it pushes this industry forward, but when other company launches very similar product out of blue (shortly after our success) and uses similar description terms (and targets our brand name in Google Adwords) is another thing...
I am happy to discuss it with you again privately if you need Jon.

Regards TW manufacturing and quality issues. This was a general comment as it is standard practice unfortunately. I am glad to learn that Oneup has a very good quality protocols. 


Marcin


----------



## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

I've had products from both brands and it's blindingly obvious in both appearance and function which products are of better quality. I continue to use Absolute Black products today.


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

GRPABT1 said:


> I've had products from both brands and it's blindingly obvious in both appearance and function which products are of better quality. I continue to use Absolute Black products today.


Me too. AB for me all the way. Their hard anodising is of exceptional quality; I have yet to wear through my first AB chainring (I bought 2 at one go). They also deserve recognition for their development of the modern oval ring and their incredibly beautiful machining.


----------



## Steezus (Jul 25, 2007)

There's enough room on my bike for both AB and OP products on my bike. The AB chainring is definitely a work of art. I have a 30t and a 32t that look like they will last forever. I also have a OP 45t kit on my cassette and OP bash guard/chain guide up front and it all works great together.


----------



## Strafer (Jun 7, 2004)

I'm sold on AB oval ring, but wasn't the case with expander cog set that is no longer sold by AB. Tried modding some of the teeth but still had issue shifting up to the cog set and gave up, now using Sunrace 42t cassette.


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

Got my eyes on a Pivot Switchblade with the Super Boost 157 hub spacing. Can't bear to lose the ability to mount an AB Oval ring. Tehan, any suggestions? Many thanks!


----------



## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I recently switched made the changes from 170mm cranks to 175mm cinch, and kept a 30T round ring. I decided to try an oval ring and while AB was an option, I ended up getting a OneUp oval ring in 32T (I wish they had a green option to match my gree 42T Oneup cog and green Radr cage). I think it was a question of what was in stock from the place I got it. Anyways, I'm sold. It doesn't climb the hills for me but I found I was able to keep more momentum and keep the bike moving at a steadier pace. What's also cool is the OneUp ring actually corrects your chainline to optimize your 1x-whatever drivetrain.

While I can't comment on the AB vs OneUp components, I can say the OneUp stuff is quality and works well. I'm sure the AB stuff is awesome too.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Christopher Robin said:


> I recently switched made the changes from 170mm cranks to 175mm cinch, and kept a 30T round ring. I decided to try an oval ring and while AB was an option, I ended up getting a OneUp oval ring in 32T (I wish they had a green option to match my gree 42T Oneup cog and green Radr cage). I think it was a question of what was in stock from the place I got it. Anyways, I'm sold. It doesn't climb the hills for me but I found I was able to keep more momentum and keep the bike moving at a steadier pace. What's also cool is the OneUp ring actually corrects your chainline to optimize your 1x-whatever drivetrain.
> 
> While I can't comment on the AB vs OneUp components, I can say the OneUp stuff is quality and works well. I'm sure the AB stuff is awesome too.


So why post that on the AB thread vs. the One Up thread?


----------



## Christopher Robin (Dec 1, 2004)

I didn't even notice that thread. I was just advocating the use of an oval ring, regardless of brand.


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

Mingloid said:


> Got my eyes on a Pivot Switchblade with the Super Boost 157 hub spacing. Can't bear to lose the ability to mount an AB Oval ring. Tehan, any suggestions? Many thanks!


By the way, the bike uses a Raceface Aeffect crank with a flipped Cinch chainring to get a ~56mm chainline. Can an AB Cinch oval ring be flipped and still work well? Thanks!


----------



## Mingloid (Jun 27, 2006)

Mingloid said:


> By the way, the bike uses a Raceface Aeffect crank with a flipped Cinch chainring to get a ~56mm chainline. Can an AB Cinch oval ring be flipped and still work well? Thanks!


Hi people, it's me again, After measuring the chainline and Q factor on a demo bike and much Googling, turns out it's using a Raceface 182 Q factor Aeffect crank, without flipping the cinch chainring. That means a regular cinch chainring would fit! yay!


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

My AB chainring for Race Face cranks is finally arriving today. I ordered it May 25th. After a week they said it would be delayed another 2 weeks. After another 2 1/2 weeks I didn't hear anything so I requested the status and they said it would be another week. About 2 weeks later it finally shipped.

I've already been using them on my SRAM direct-mount cranks, so I'm sure I'll like it.


----------



## rufus (Jun 15, 2004)

Mine arrived today too, took a week from Universal Cycles.


----------



## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

If I'm using a 30T round ring, which oval chainring should I get 30 T or 32T?


----------



## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

their website has the info you are looking for.


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

rave81 said:


> If I'm using a 30T round ring, which oval chainring should I get 30 T or 32T?


I would stick with a 30t on a geared bike.

On a SS bike you could go to a 32 if you want to spin out less. It will be a little more effort on the climbs, but not as much as a 32t round ring.


----------



## armii (Jan 9, 2016)

rave81 said:


> If I'm using a 30T round ring, which oval chainring should I get 30 T or 32T?


32t


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

After almost 4 weeks of using, it seems this oval ring really helped me to get faster. I can say now, I definitely get used to it. First time it seemed this took half an hour or so but in reality, it was two weeks to feel it really comfortable both in low and high rpm cadence.
Last Saturday I was able to test it on a hardcore race as well. Salzkammergut-Trophy, extreme distance.  (211 km with 7109m ascent - ~131 miles with ~23300 feet)
I decided to go with the AB 32t oval and it was a good decision. The 34t would had been definitely too big for the steep and sometimes quite technical climbs. Log, if you are interested: https://www.strava.com/activities/635462814

Absolute Black, great product!


----------



## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

My experience with Absolute Black Oval:
1st impressions: solid product - the quality of the product really shines. I LOVE how the install nuts on the 104BCD are part of the chain ring. 

Installation: straight forward with no hiccups. As I said previous with the nuts already part of the chain ring it makes it much easier than installing/uninstalling standard chain rings I've used in the past (Raceface). I used mine on a SS setup - tension was pretty easy to dial in. Please note that tension will be slightly different as you spin. It isn't noticeable on the trail but you can defiantly notice it on the bike stand. 

Use: I use a 32T with a 22T cog in the back for New England technical riding. I wish I ordered a 34T oval because it's too easy now. The Oval ring makes it much easier to spin. I am now running a 20T in the back with my Oval 32T up front and it's better. If I could order again though I'd get a 34T up front. If you are on the fence go bigger.

Final Thoughts: I'm building a new SS bike and I will be buying an Absolute Black oval for it once again. Great product.


----------



## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

I just want to post a perhaps unpopular but valid opinion about Absolute Black Ovals. There are potential downsides to oval rings that are never pointed out from a biomechanical standpoint, that I have unfortunately experienced. 
I've been riding on an Absolute Black oval ring on my mountain bike for 2years. It is my only bike, so its been a full commitment to Oval. There is a lot to like about it in use, and I drank the kool-aid in a major way. However I developed really bad knee pain in my patella region. Something that has never happened to me in my lifetime of cycling. My knees have always been rock solid. What makes the oval ring seem so great and appealing is that it fatigues your quads and leg muscles less, and gives you a perceived resting phase on the downstroke. However it is this "resting" portion of the stroke on an Oval that transfers way more load to your knees on the downstroke, especially when standing and pedaling. You can vaguely compensate for this by shifting your hips further back behind the bottom bracket when standing, but this places you in a weak position. I switched back to a round ring, and within a few weeks, along with some rehab protocol my knees where back in A-1 shape. 
I miss the oval sometimes, but joint health trumps any advantage it offered me. I just wish I would have realized this sooner. Other people might not experience this. But after 2 years I think I can make an informed assessment, and I believe the Oval ring while it takes pressure off one part of your body, places undue strain on other parts and potentially more vulnerable parts in order to do this. I would rather have sore Quads than bad knees.


----------



## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Heresy!! 

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


----------



## morandi (Jun 20, 2008)

My Momma didn't call me "trouble" for nothing.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Burn the heretic!

If I put a round ring of the same tooth count on my SS, I get a lot of knee pain after a bit of 20-30rpm climbing.


----------



## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> Burn the heretic!
> 
> If I put a round ring of the same tooth count on my SS, I get a lot of knee pain after a bit of 20-30rpm climbing.


Hear! Here!

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


----------



## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

Nothing works for everyone.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

Regarding SingleSpeed, I had a bad experience in the past. I loved SingleSpeeds for its simplicity and robustness. Last time when I used SingleSpeed that was 2 years ago. But after 2 months of usage, suddenly I started to feel quite big pain in my right knee.
At lower cadence you put an extra stress to your muscles, ligaments (is it the right word?) & knees. Most of people don't know that recommendation for low cadence intervals, K3 and especially K4 workouts are not recommended for those who produce less than 4.1-4.2 Watt/kg (FTP). And, on SingleSpeed, people often go on K4 "zone" during climbing.
Actually, sometimes I'm still facing knee problems after K4 intervals (FTP * 115-120% @ 50-60 rpm), even if my FTP is above 4.5 W/kg...


----------



## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

I don't know what any of that means lol.. I just ride my bike.. 

Paul


----------



## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

How are peoples rings holding up now that summer is coming to a close? Due to family issues I have not ridden as much as I would have hoped this summer, but now that things have calmed down a little the Fall time looks good to catch up. My 34t oval ring mounted on XT 785 has about 375 miles on it over 40 rides (some of them are my commute to work so that is only 6.5 miles). Retention is still great, the green has not chipped or faded at all, never dropped a chain. This is mounted on a Niner SIR 9 and I do want to try the new 30t oval ring, but am worried about clearance since the chainline is in about 2mm more. Anyone else running other sizes on a SIR 9?


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

offrhodes42 said:


> How are peoples rings holding up now that summer is coming to a close? Due to family issues I have not ridden as much as I would have hoped this summer, but now that things have calmed down a little the Fall time looks good to catch up. My 34t oval ring mounted on XT 785 has about 375 miles on it over 40 rides (some of them are my commute to work so that is only 6.5 miles). Retention is still great, the green has not chipped or faded at all, never dropped a chain. This is mounted on a Niner SIR 9 and I do want to try the new 30t oval ring, but am worried about clearance since the chainline is in about 2mm more. Anyone else running other sizes on a SIR 9?


I've run multiple sizes of AB oval rings on my SIR9. Mine are the direct mount type for SRAM cranks, so I don't know if the chainline is exactly the same as your XT cranks or not. For singlespeed use I usually run the 32t ring, and I put 1x11 gears on it with a 28t ring for a hilly endurance race. I had no issues with either setup.

As far as chainstay clearance on a SIR9, if there is an issue you might be able to move the EBB position to give more clearance. If you are running a geared (1x) setup, then you can put it pretty much anywhere you want. For singlespeed you have less adjustment range since you use the EBB to adjust chain tension, but you still have some options. I tried putting my EBB all the way rearward and the chainring clearance did get close, so I just moved the EBB a little bit further forward.


----------



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Pauldotcom said:


> I don't know what any of that means lol.. I just ride my bike..
> 
> Paul


His knee hurts when he has to push too hard.


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

I have 1500+ miles on my AB 32T chainring, it still doesn't look worn really. It doesn't hold the chain quite as good as it useto but not a problem. I run mine in a 2X setup (with no front derailleur though, so just use a cheap non-AB smaller chainring as a bailout option) and even while riding 20-30 miles on a smaller chainring that chainring would start to show wear. I think a big part of the longevity is the narrow/wide nature of the AB chainrings, the wide teeth are so much stronger than a normal tooth and even the normal teeth don't have to have shift ramps and such (all of which removes material), it makes for a very strong chainring.


----------



## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

I can imagine oval is good if you aren't clip-less. But if you are clip-less you get the full usage a rotation regardless of the shape. 

For example, to get nearly the full gear range of what I'm setting up with a 9 speed dual setup - F:36/22 R: 34/11 -- I'd have to get a 10 speed F: 28 R: 11-44 ... and then there is still some sacrifice and good luck getting a 28 front to last very long -- and as I've read 10 speed chains don't have much longevity compared to 9. 

What oval T would be equivalent to a 28 round?

Is there a calculation of what an oval is equivalent to a round?

Is there a gear calculator that takes oval into consideration?


----------



## garcia (Apr 10, 2008)

escapedturkey said:


> I can imagine oval is good if you aren't clip-less. But if you are clip-less you get the full usage a rotation regardless of the shape.
> 
> For example, to get nearly the full gear range of what I'm setting up with a 9 speed dual setup - F:36/22 R: 34/11 -- I'd have to get a 10 speed F: 28 R: 11-44 ... and then there is still some sacrifice and good luck getting a 28 front to last very long -- and as I've read 10 speed chains don't have much longevity compared to 9.
> 
> ...


I am sure someone will come along and explain better, but I don't think you understand what an oval is designed to do. It isn't about the upstroke, it is about making the downstroke more efficient based on what our muscles naturally do. Pedals and shoes have nothing to do with this.

Also, studies keep showing (sorry for no sources, I have seen them on GCN, Bikeradar, etc) that clipless isn't actually more efficient, despite what even the pros they test with think. But, that is another story.


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

garcia said:


> I am sure someone will come along and explain better, but I don't think you understand what an oval is designed to do. It isn't about the upstroke, it is about making the downstroke more efficient based on what our muscles naturally do. Pedals and shoes have nothing to do with this.
> 
> Also, studies keep showing (sorry for no sources, I have seen them on GCN, Bikeradar, etc) that clipless isn't actually more efficient, despite what even the pros they test with think. But, that is another story.


^ - oval...yeah that, a higher percentage of chain-pull during your two power strokes than during the dead time (one foot top and one bottom)...which means your foot gets through the dead time quicker, etc.

About the clipless not being more efficient, I've seen those reports/studies also and it always seemed odd to me. I understand in a perfectly controlled lab-ish environment measuring pure power then letting each muscle do what it does best is probably the most efficient method (i.e. let your down-stroke be your only power, as maybe there is so little power/speed to be gained by trying to use the upstroke that you probably waste more energy with such minimal gains it's useless).

However, my own experience is a bit different than that. I know my main power comes from the down-stroke (and the oval chain-ring helps capitalize on that power by pulling more chain during that part of the stroke) but being clipped in does let me (I feel) pedal faster and not necessarily 'pull' on the upstroke to try to gain speed but just to lift my free leg so my working leg has an easier time, I guess I'm 'pulling' but only with the force to lift my own leg. Of course there is also the idea of having your foot clipped in so you don't have to think about what angle you're pushing the pedal at and if your foot will slide off, such as pedaling with your heel very low to work different muscles (if you watch pro road cyclists most of them alternate between a few pedaling styles, toes down with not much leg extension and heels down with full leg extension, to give muscles a break, etc). So by being clipped in I can forget about the connection from my foot to the pedal and then just focus on the trail or my pedal stroke or whatever. At least that's my own 100% biased view on it...


----------



## garcia (Apr 10, 2008)

mabrodis said:


> ^ - oval...yeah that, a higher percentage of chain-pull during your two power strokes than during the dead time (one foot top and one bottom)...which means your foot gets through the dead time quicker, etc.
> 
> About the clipless not being more efficient, I've seen those reports/studies also and it always seemed odd to me. I understand in a perfectly controlled lab-ish environment measuring pure power then letting each muscle do what it does best is probably the most efficient method (i.e. let your down-stroke be your only power, as maybe there is so little power/speed to be gained by trying to use the upstroke that you probably waste more energy with such minimal gains it's useless).
> 
> However, my own experience is a bit different than that. I know my main power comes from the down-stroke (and the oval chain-ring helps capitalize on that power by pulling more chain during that part of the stroke) but being clipped in does let me (I feel) pedal faster and not necessarily 'pull' on the upstroke to try to gain speed but just to lift my free leg so my working leg has an easier time, I guess I'm 'pulling' but only with the force to lift my own leg. Of course there is also the idea of having your foot clipped in so you don't have to think about what angle you're pushing the pedal at and if your foot will slide off, such as pedaling with your heel very low to work different muscles (if you watch pro road cyclists most of them alternate between a few pedaling styles, toes down with not much leg extension and heels down with full leg extension, to give muscles a break, etc). So by being clipped in I can forget about the connection from my foot to the pedal and then just focus on the trail or my pedal stroke or whatever. At least that's my own 100% biased view on it...


I get what you are saying, and I was a die hard clipless guy for years. However, I had the bright idea to try out a nice set of pedals and shoes, and honestly, I notice almost no difference. I can still spin into the 140's or 150's briefly without my foot flying off, and with the right shoe/pedal combo, my feet aren't going anywhere. Plus, on an SS, when the unfortunate need to walk arises it is far more comfortable...

That said, I wouldn't even think about flats on my road bike, since I am less likely to want to move around. But, again, my experiences are also 100% biased. YMMV.


----------



## escapedturkey (Oct 8, 2015)

When I lived in SF, I would spend about 3 to 4 hours cycling on a daily basis - commuting to work, college, and generally going out and about. Carrying panniers full of books, and often the hills were so steep, I'd find myself leaning over the handlebars and pulling up with the clip-less pedals. My hamstrings and calves got so big I had to get my slacks tailored. Climbing hills soon felt effortless. I believe it's because the clip-less pedals exercised leg muscle that a platform style wouldn't fully utilize.

From a practical point of view, clip-less pedals are a pain if the bicycle is your main transportation. They tend to look silly and are terrible for walking around unless you get the kind of shoes with the recessed cleat, but even those can make walking noisy and feel awkward. They can also damage flooring. I now use Wellgo MG-1 with hiking shoes. I doubt I'd ever use clip-less again. I'm not as hardcore of a cyclist as I used to be.


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Had my Oval for a year now and it's great! I can climb better and the best part is that my knees no longer hurt. Just purchase the Stump Jumper Fattie stock and my knees are hurting so am waiting for the Oval to arrive so I can install it.


----------



## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

If anyone's interested, I just got notice this morning that my preorder of the AB 104 bcd 30T had shipped. Estimated delivery date of Monday, which is pretty impressive considering it's coming out of Poland (to California).


----------



## thecanoe (Jan 30, 2007)

Nash04 said:


> Had my Oval for a year now and it's great! I can climb better and the best part is that my knees no longer hurt. Just purchase the Stump Jumper Fattie stock and my knees are hurting so am waiting for the Oval to arrive so I can install it.


Same here. I have a 26T matched to an 11-46 Sunrace 10 speed and it's been great on my Pivot Les Fat

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## makpak42 (Jul 4, 2016)

Been using the RF cinch 28t Boost version with a 1x10, X9 setup on a 27.5+ bike for the last 6 wks. Got to say it has been fantastic. The chainring itself is a piece of art. For the first ride, I thought I would feel or notice the oval shape while peddling. I hit the trail and and never noticed a difference in peddling vs a round chainring. In other words it was very easy to adapt too. 

As for peddling efficiency, that is where all the differences lie. With the oval I can climb faster and stronger. And I feel it has also improved traction with steep sections of climbing. YMMV.

By the way, I take back every Polish joke I've said because this the AB chainring is no joke.


----------



## rad3144 (Sep 28, 2016)

I like mine. It's a 94bcd ring, it makes 1st pretty close to the tire. This is a 27.5+ boost spaced bike 
The ring itself is 1-2mm off the frame. Seems kinda close to me. Also if you use ab "long" bolts be careful torquing them down. I snapped the head off one.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hi,
Sorry for the slow answer as I am not as often here as I would like to be.
This clearance is more than enough for smooth operation. It gives you best chainline possible for your drivetrain so you don't wear the parts as quickly.


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

tehan said:


> Hi,
> Sorry for the slow answer as I am not as often here as I would like to be.
> This clearance is more than enough for smooth operation. It gives you best chainline possible for your drivetrain so you don't wear the parts as quickly.


 AB, when is orange color coming out?


----------



## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

dgw7000 said:


> AB, when is orange color coming out?


^^^ Yeah this!


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

I would have a question regarding AB 32T oval. Recently I replaced my old XTR crankset to a SRAM XX1 Eagle DZero (Quarq) which have a more robust spider, compared to XTR. Thickness of spider is greater.
As a result, 6.5mm Chainring bolts cannot be 'trued' more than ~2.5 mm (this is the 'contact' area with the AB chainring, approximately).

I have that gut feeling this can be a bit too small contact with the threads of AB 32T oval.

Here is a picture:








Should I buy longer Chainring Bolts?

(As far as I can see, most of them are 4.5-6.5mm long only.)


----------



## dgw7000 (Aug 31, 2011)

semmiho said:


> I would have a question regarding AB 32T oval. Recently I replaced my old XTR crankset to a SRAM XX1 Eagle DZero (Quarq) which have a more robust spider, compared to XTR. Thickness of spider is greater.
> As a result, 6.5mm Chainring bolts cannot be 'trued' more than ~2.5 mm (this is the 'contact' area with the AB chainring, approximately).
> 
> I have that gut feeling this can be a bit too small contact with the threads of AB 32T oval.
> ...


Why even use the spider, should have gone direct mount!!


----------



## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

semmiho said:


> I would have a question regarding AB 32T oval. Recently I replaced my old XTR crankset to a SRAM XX1 Eagle DZero (Quarq) which have a more robust spider, compared to XTR. Thickness of spider is greater.
> As a result, 6.5mm Chainring bolts cannot be 'trued' more than ~2.5 mm (this is the 'contact' area with the AB chainring, approximately).
> 
> I have that gut feeling this can be a bit too small contact with the threads of AB 32T oval.
> ...


In my opinion, yes, you should buy longer chainring bolts. I had shorter ones and they always made me nervous about not being as engaged as I thought they should be in the chainring, and because of that the few threads that were engaged got a bit tornup from all the stress being on just those limited threads. Now I have bolts that are flush with the thickness of the chainring, and on another bike they are actually longer so the bolts stick out a bit on the inside (longer than they need to be), but no harm in being longer. I had to measure my current bolts then figure out what I needed and find online.

Bolts I ended up going with were Wolf Tooth 10mm bolts bought off ebay.


----------



## AndrewBikeGuide (Nov 12, 2014)

dgw7000 said:


> Why even use the spider, should have gone direct mount!!


You obviously don't understand that the Quarq power meter means that one cannot use direct mount.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

mabrodis said:


> In my opinion, yes, you should buy longer chainring bolts. I had shorter ones and they always made me nervous about not being as engaged as I thought they should be in the chainring, and because of that the few threads that were engaged got a bit tornup from all the stress being on just those limited threads. Now I have bolts that are flush with the thickness of the chainring, and on another bike they are actually longer so the bolts stick out a bit on the inside (longer than they need to be), but no harm in being longer. I had to measure my current bolts then figure out what I needed and find online.
> 
> Bolts I ended up going with were Wolf Tooth 10mm bolts bought off ebay.


Thank you so much for the information, I've just ordered a set of Wolftooth 10mm bolts


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

006_007 said:


> few more that are offering the "bio-pace" rings
> 
> Rotor Bike Components :: Products
> 
> Osymetric USA


Technically, BioPace is different from these, including Absoluteblack. Just sayin'


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

mabrodis said:


> In my opinion, yes, you should buy longer chainring bolts. I had shorter ones and they always made me nervous about not being as engaged as I thought they should be in the chainring, and because of that the few threads that were engaged got a bit tornup from all the stress being on just those limited threads. Now I have bolts that are flush with the thickness of the chainring, and on another bike they are actually longer so the bolts stick out a bit on the inside (longer than they need to be), but no harm in being longer. I had to measure my current bolts then figure out what I needed and find online.
> 
> Bolts I ended up going with were Wolf Tooth 10mm bolts bought off ebay.


Chainring bolts are always happier when more of their threads are engaged. Aim for two thirds thread length engaged as a minimum for safety and durability. 
The ring looks great BTW!


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

Absoluteblack said:


> Chainring bolts are always happier when more of their threads are engaged. Aim for two thirds thread length engaged as a minimum for safety and durability.
> The ring looks great BTW!


Thanks for the nice words!  I'm so happy with this product. And the chainring still looks almost new after 6684 kms (according to my service notes and Strava logs)!

Just for safety, today I will change this AB 32T Oval chainring to my spare AbsoluteBlack 34T Oval, until 10mm chainring bolts arrived.


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

No worries. Glad you've having fun on our ovals.


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

SRAM GX Eagle - 12spd budget groupset is coming

Looking to go Oval with 1x12 drivetrain, but it is still too expensive? Then absoluteBLACK have good news for you!
SRAM GX Eagle is coming soon, which will finally give you the extended range on a budget. All absoluteBLACK Oval chainrings are compatible with GX Eagle so there was not a better time to #GoOval and improve your climbing. Try an absoluteBLACK oval and never look back. We promise.

To convert your bike to 1x12 you only need the 12-speed compatible cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, chain and absoluteBLACK oval chainring. You can even keep your current crank and just mount an absoluteBLACK Oval ring to it. This is as simple as it gets.

However; if you happen to get a GX Eagle crank, then there will most likely be two versions like with current 11spd model. GX-1400 Eagle will accept our direct mount Oval Traction Chainring for SRAM and GX-1000 Eagle will accept our Oval 94bcd Traction Chainring for SRAM - since the latter GX-1000 crank does not have removable spider.

Share this information with friends who are on the lookout for a new budget 1x12 drivetrain.


----------



## TheBaldBlur (Jan 13, 2014)

My AB 28T just arrived last night and I have a question about installing it. I have a SRAM / Boost drivetrain so the new chainring is dished a bit for the offset. When mounting it on the crank arm, does it go concave side *toward *the bike or concave *away *from the bike?

Maybe it will be self-evident once I take the stock RF chainring off, but I have to go get a BB socket to remove the cinch direct mount first.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

TheBaldBlur said:


> My AB 28T just arrived last night and I have a question about installing it. I have a SRAM / Boost drivetrain so the new chainring is dished a bit for the offset. When mounting it on the crank arm, does it go concave side *toward *the bike or concave *away *from the bike?
> 
> Maybe it will be self-evident once I take the stock RF chainring off, but I have to go get a BB socket to remove the cinch direct mount first.


Its a GXP direct drive? The three screw pockets where you attach it to the crank arm will only allow it to mount one way. But to answer your question the offset goes inboard, so the chain will be 3mm (6mm non-boost) more inboard than the GXP mount.


----------



## rad3144 (Sep 28, 2016)

Also stock screws for dm chain rings tend to suck, I snapped one off, ended up getting wolf tooth steel ones 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

I noticed my LBS had a used 32T (I currently run a 32 round) sitting on the wall and I asked if I could try it. Conveniently, it was green which matched my bike. I asked his opinion on it and he didn't think he noticed a benefit so he went back to round. I had been considering going down to 30T, but figured I would try this first.

My first test was a race, not ideal. But that's life. I'm not going to say it transformed my riding or anything like that, but I definitely feel it. At low power outputs it does feel funny. Medium power I don't notice anything. High power output and that's when it comes to life. The dead spots in my power when I am wishing I had a 30T...that's what it was like. It seems like (perception only) I can push a gear higher then normal when I am flat out. And when I am in a tech section, I don't suffer from that dead spot as bad and can get through more difficult areas easier. MOST of the time I'm in that middle power area and it doesn't do anything. But when I am wicking it up, it's nice to have.

I can't claim any big PR's or anything with it. All my fast times have other variables besides just the chainring so I will never know. All I can compare with is my perception. While wildly inaccurate, I'm always a bit of the skeptical type. If it is just a placebo, then I am okay with that too.


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

BIG News. SRAM is going OVAL!
Surprised? We are not. After Sram purchased dozens of absoluteBLACK oval rings to test late last year, they are about to release their own (̶c̶o̶p̶y̶)̶ version in the near future.

If you still have sceptical friends around saying, "ovals don't work otherwise 'big S' would make them surely" - SHARE this news with them then!

We have always believed absoluteBLACK Oval chainrings will become a mainstream drivetrain choice - for all riders - because of their excellent functionality.

With absoluteBLACK's huge international success, even the world's biggest players in bicycle drivetrain technology join now our #ovalrevolution by mimicking our work and raising global awareness of the #gooval movement.

However, not all oval chainrings share the same performance characteritstics as absoluteBLACK. The 'clocking' (timing) and shape of the oval are the most crucial parts of any oval chainring design, absoluteBLACK spent three years in design development and have perfected both timing and shape design elements - ensuring the ride quality of absoluteBLACK oval ring will be different and superior to ovals from other brands (as many abo****eBLACK customers already realised).

Our longterm belief in oval and development of our design, has led absoluteBLACK to become the most commercially successful oval chainring product in the world. So keep in mind that not every oval chainring is equal to an absoluteBLACK.

absoluteBLACK's motto: "Try an oval and never look back" has surely made an impression on SRAM.
https://goo.gl/CE6rcQ


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

I'm on my 3rd bike and 3rd oval ring. Have gone from 30t, to 30t, now to 28t. 

Has anyone tried a more aggressive clocking on their ABS oval?
Anyone know what the two dots on the convex side is for?


----------



## JonE5 (Jul 24, 2011)

Recently switched from a 32T round to a 32T AB Oval ring to see what the fuss is all about. I get it...still getting used to it, but I think I like it  One thing...I've noticed that I'm really "slamming" into the engagement points on my hub when ratcheting through some sections. With the old round ring I never noticed this, but I definitely feel and hear the difference with the oval. Is this a common experience folks have when switching to oval and is it something you eventually adapt to?


----------



## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

JonE5 said:


> Recently switched from a 32T round to a 32T AB Oval ring to see what the fuss is all about. I get it...still getting used to it, but I think I like it  One thing...I've noticed that I'm really "slamming" into the engagement points on my hub when ratcheting through some sections. With the old round ring I never noticed this, but I definitely feel and hear the difference with the oval. Is this a common experience folks have when switching to oval and is it something you eventually adapt to?


I think it's the opposite i.e. my circles (pardon the pun) are smoother 

On a round I would slam into power part of stroke due to the dead spot.

Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

I can't say I noticed that. Only real difference I noticed was it felt funny when just cruising around, and that I could get through technical stuff easier since my off stroke power had better multiplication so I didn't really lose momentum. Makes it easier to run a higher gear in those situations, and I prefer to treat my 42t as a bail out emergency use only gear.


----------



## JonE5 (Jul 24, 2011)

Thanks, guess it's just me experiencing this. And it's not an issue at all -- just something I've noticed and an annoyance at best. It has been just a handful of rides with the oval and I'm sure I'm still in "transition" from the round ring. I'll try consciously running a higher gear in the situations where I'm slamming the hub and see if that helps. The oval certainly does make it easier to run higher gears. I forgot to mention that I also switched to a shorter crank arm (from 175 to 170) along with the oval so that's probably contributing to what I'm getting.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

I just installed a 34T AB oval ring yesterday and did my first ride on it. I'm going to try to quantify my experience on it with data, as I feel like what is missing from most reviews is just how much faster or less fatiguing their experience is. Over the past month I've been using a Quark DZero power meter and have had my best training rides to date with it, so it's a perfect time to see if I can make even further gains with just a chainring switch. 

First ride was a moderate effort on my part, as I had an exhausting day prior. By the 3rd pedal stroke I already knew that I liked it. As a lower cadence rider, I deal with the dead spot for longer than most. This really did reduce the time/effort on that part of the stroke. My pedals were getting into downstroke much quicker. I thought there would be a downside to that (wearing out my quads quicker), but that wasn't the case at all. If anything, I was using the pulling muscles in my legs/glutes more efficiently (they didn't have to pull as hard/long). 

First hill (warmup) felt great. First high gear, out-of-saddle hill sprint felt awkward. My timing was off and I was around 800 watts over 15 seconds where I am normally around 900 watts. I tried again later at a higher gear, but similar results. I really suspect it was just timing on my part, but also I wasn't in condition to go near my hardest effort, so it's possible that had as much to do with it as the timing of my pedal stroke. 

The first in-saddle steep climb was very strong. The best summary I can say about it is that I felt less fatigued overall at the top. Pedal stroke just felt smoother and thus easier. Near the top where the gravel is looser, I didn't break traction once, where I normally do just slightly for a pedal stroke or two. When I got to the flat part on top I felt better accelerating up to speed. Well, for a little bit longer at least 

Next test was the big hill in my ride, which is a 400' singletrack climb. There are steep sections and also a couple of short, flat sections, so it is not a continuous climb. I pushed harder on this hill and was surprised to get a 30s PR. I believe this was mainly due to feeling more comfortable being in 3rd gear over a few sections that I normally stay in 2nd for, and a stronger acceleration over the flatter sections. Either way it was a massive result. I'd say this was a 9/10 effort where my previous efforts were maybe at 8-8.5/10, so take that for what it's worth. Re: I didn't become instantly 30s faster over a ~7:30 section. 

Finally I did my cool-down climbs and got a 3rd best personal result without really trying. Overall I put in what I thought was a moderate effort in terms of both over normalized power and RPE, but my overall speed and climbing stats suggested I did slightly better. I haven't done a slow, out-of-saddle grind up a hill or flat sprint yet, so no comment on that as of yet. I'll report back when I do a "hard" training ride and compare the data/results from my hardest and most recent rides with the round chainring (same route). Very pleased so far.


----------



## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Interestingly here - I've had a 32 oval for about 15 months now.
Setup - 
Remedy - 28 lb, 29" wheels, SRAM 1X 10-42 with a 32 Absolute black oval, and Bontrager XR4 tires.

Scarp - 26.7, 29" wheels, XTR Di2 2X (26/36) [never use the 26 except for extremely rare instances where I just don't feel like really riding!], to a 11-40 cassette, Bontrager XR4 tires.

I have been riding the Scarp pretty much exclusively this year so far. Went back to the Remedy for a ride Saturday, and it took me a minute to get used to the oval again. Wtihin a minute or so, it felt normal. Finished up the ride, and all was good.

Went out the next day, on the Scarp. Back to the round rings. 
It felt like I was able to hold momentum much better. Lower speed grinding felt more stable. It just seems like I am able to keep the flow of the ride much better on the round rings. 
The bikes are within 2 lb of each other, both full suspension. Of course the Remedy has the ReAktive suspension, which DOES make a big difference in the "efficiency" of the pedaling. 
One is intended to be my XC race bike (Scarp) where the other is intended to be my basher (Remedy) but I'm ALWAYS out there trying to go fast - no matter what bike I'm on. The tires are identical, so it's not like there is a massive difference in the bikes, other than suspension travel (120f/100r Scarp, 160f/140r Remedy) and geometries (70*Scarp, 67* Remedy)

I'm wondering if the round rings don't hold speed better, and allow a more "consistent" pedaling. 
Also wondering if it's a clipless thing. I run clipless on all of my bikes, and so as a result I may be pulling up and pulling back on the pedals enough to completely negate any oval benefit. 
I have wondered if the oval wasn't much more suited to flat riders, since flat pedals will make it impossible to pull up, so you now have a "weaker" pedal point in your rotation.

It was strange though, going back to the oval, then back to the round, and just "feeling" like the round rings gave me more consistent power output feedback than the oval does.


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

I don't know what The differences are between the two bikes, but I can't directly compare my HT to my 130 trail to my 160 Enduro. None of them pedal the same. 

The the 130 bike is older trail, more like modern XC, which is why I'm converting it to my endurance bike.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I find it's the slower and looser conditions where the oval helps the most.
30rpm standing grinding on the edge of traction seems easier with the oval than round.
I go back to round and am stalling out more often and having to use lots more body english to keep the traction.


----------



## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

tehan said:


> Hi,
> Sorry for the slow answer as I am not as often here as I would like to be.
> This clearance is more than enough for smooth operation. It gives you best chainline possible for your drivetrain so you don't wear the parts as quickly.


How can you tell if the chainring is due replacement, noticed lately while pedaling I can hear a clunk coming from the BB/Chainring area, did replace my BB bearings and issue is persisting, also the chain has been replace. The chainring tooth looks pretty good but don't really know what to look for.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

The two races I've done so far on the oval ring were excellent. Especially the 2nd race, which was 2,200' of climbing over 18 miles. Because of a couple technical issues I really had to hammer the climbs to make up some time. Despite going nearly all-out on the climbs I always felt like I was ahead of the pedal stroke the whole time. It wasn't until the very last climb when my legs started feeling heavily fatigued, but I had already won the race at that point. Even afterwards my legs felt good and I did acro-yoga for a couple hours that evening. "Delayed onset of fatigue" continues to be the most noticable improvement in my riding on this chainring. My friend just installed one as well, so I'll offer a summary of his experience after he gets a few rides on it.


----------



## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

morandi said:


> I just want to post a perhaps unpopular but valid opinion about Absolute Black Ovals. There are potential downsides to oval rings that are never pointed out from a biomechanical standpoint, that I have unfortunately experienced.
> I've been riding on an Absolute Black oval ring on my mountain bike for 2years. It is my only bike, so its been a full commitment to Oval. There is a lot to like about it in use, and I drank the kool-aid in a major way. However I developed really bad knee pain in my patella region. Something that has never happened to me in my lifetime of cycling. My knees have always been rock solid. What makes the oval ring seem so great and appealing is that it fatigues your quads and leg muscles less, and gives you a perceived resting phase on the downstroke. However it is this "resting" portion of the stroke on an Oval that transfers way more load to your knees on the downstroke, especially when standing and pedaling. You can vaguely compensate for this by shifting your hips further back behind the bottom bracket when standing, but this places you in a weak position. I switched back to a round ring, and within a few weeks, along with some rehab protocol my knees where back in A-1 shape.
> I miss the oval sometimes, but joint health trumps any advantage it offered me. I just wish I would have realized this sooner. Other people might not experience this. But after 2 years I think I can make an informed assessment, and I believe the Oval ring while it takes pressure off one part of your body, places undue strain on other parts and potentially more vulnerable parts in order to do this. I would rather have sore Quads than bad knees.


Thanks morandi, i started reading 2 hours ago so many posts but i jumped some, i read 1 user(if my memory is OK) that by instinct he raised his saddle a bit, maybe that might help? Like you my knees come first at 59, hoping to pedal daily 30 or if lucky next 40 years.


----------



## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

I am no expert but i consider the clipless a safety issue, if racing one sprints you must jump on full on to fallow and avoid being dropped so if you do not race there is no need except if u drink the marketing koolaid 300$ pedals/300$shoes, well i liked clipless in the city to cut cars but on 3 hours rides or mountain no need for me. We used to have clips(in the sixties) wich is safer you can lock your front wheel land on a regular shoe and walk away with a bit of pain, with practice you turn around to catch the top tube of your bike coming at you but with special road bike shoes good luck !


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

After nearly 3 months on the oval ring, I had my first experience back on a round ring last week when I had my first indoor trainer ride of the season. It was a steady state recovery spin. It felt awful and made the 1-hour session feel like it was taking forever. My performance was also erratic, as I averaged 10W less during the first 10 minutes than I did the last 10. I immediately ordered a 50T replacement ring. 

Today was my first ride on it and the difference was night & day. I normally did my recovery spin in 4th gear last offseason, but on the oval I felt very comfortable in 5th gear. Despite feeling like an easier effort, I gained 8W from last week's ride with only a 3 rpm drop in my cadence (bigger gearing). Similar to my experience so far on the MTB, I felt ahead of the pedal stroke most of the time and my pedaling technique felt considerably more even (the upstroke is so much easier). This was the day after crushing my biggest MTB race of the year. I'm all oval from here on out.


----------



## 33red (Jan 5, 2016)

I have a question about climbing.
That is my fun part pedaling up without touching the ground.
On your ovals when traction is not optimal can you be up or do you need to be seated?
Thanks


----------



## SoCal-Rider (May 25, 2009)

Standing or seated climbing on an oval doesn't seem to be affected any differently than a round. For out of saddle efforts in looser conditions you need to keep the rear tire weighted properly. 

To restate how I've heard it put, the oval seems to smooth out the pedal power. I have nothing other my experience to back that up. I did ride my friend's bike with a round for a bit this past weekend. When switching to a round from an oval, I can feel a dead spot twice in each pedal stroke. It's like you've hit mud for a second. It really feels odd.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

SoCal-Rider said:


> Standing or seated climbing on an oval doesn't seem to be affected any differently than a round. For out of saddle efforts in looser conditions you need to keep the rear tire weighted properly.
> 
> To restate how I've heard it put, the oval seems to smooth out the pedal power. I have nothing other my experience to back that up. I did ride my friend's bike with a round for a bit this past weekend. When switching to a round from an oval, I can feel a dead spot twice in each pedal stroke. It's like you've hit mud for a second. It really feels odd.


I agree with this assessment. It certainly _seems_ like I am losing traction less frequently on the oval, but I never took any records of such on the round ring so I have no way of directly comparing the two. Last night I happened to do a lot of out-saddle climbing in what I would say was 1 gear too high for the most part (focus was on strength). There were some wet leaves and semi-loose gravel on the hills and while I would break traction here and there, it would only be maybe 1-2" of tire travels worth. I feel like it could have been worse if I wasn't able to get the pedals in the 2 o'clock position as quickly as I am able to on the oval. YMMV.


----------



## semmiho (Jul 29, 2009)

+1 for the positive changes during climbing. Especially on technical and steep climbs.

During the 1.5 years I noticed only one strange thing with Absolute Black chainrings. During pedaling, the rear derailleur's cage moves back and forth a bit and now I killed the clutch mechanism of my 2nd Shimano XTR derailleur...
(I have adjusted the clutch mechanism and it was fine for a while. After ~1000 kms I'm facing with chain drops again...)


----------



## dkharris111 (Sep 20, 2011)

I didn't read the 12 years of comments in this thread but here is my take. I am about as much of a sceptic as you will find. When something new comes out I typically think its a sales gimmick. However after reading and researching I decided to give it a go. I decided to start with my SBI Fatboy Comp Carbon since it was already a 1X12. I kept my HR as close to 175 as possible on all three sections.

I used 1.2 mile section as the first test. This section is flatish with 25 ft of elevation gain all in one climb. On this section I was 6 seconds faster. Same bike. Same conditions. PR on Strava. Even faster than my 29er.

The next section was shorter at about .5 miles with 48 ft elevation gain. this is a decent with a quick steep climb at the end. Averaging 7%. I was 12 seconds faster. Again a PR on Strava.

The last measurable section was .4 miles with 25 feet steady elevation gain. 3.5% to 6.5%. No descents. I was 2 seconds faster. 

I read a few different independent studies and they all were kind of the same. I felt the people doing the research were looking to prove a way they weren't effective rather than compiling data and coming to a conclusion without an opinion. The only real outcome that I can see holding water would be people starting to drop their heels counteracting the oval. If you have only one bike (loser) I might consider swapping back and forth between round and oval to offset this. Maybe use the round for bulk training and Oval for events and bigger rides. 

There seems to be some variation of different ring makers as well. I used the Absolute Black 32T. I believe the difference is where the Oval starts and finishes in your pedal stoke. 

I will say for the most part I prefer the oval in the dirt and it excels in the dirt and areas where you need no keep some higher wattage (climbs, tech etc.) On the road I cant feel a difference. When there is a quick transition were you normally would consider shifting into a lower gear you will find you don't need to. My only real complaint is when you try and time your front wheel placement using the pedals. Since the ring is at the low power point you will not have the power to pop the front wheel up over the obstacle. This may be part of the 3 weeks of riding period that is referred to in the beginning. I also read a few people saying they had knee pain. I would say I found the opposite.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

dkharris111 said:


> I didn't read the 12 years of comments in this thread but here is my take. I am about as much of a sceptic as you will find. When something new comes out I typically think its a sales gimmick. However after reading and researching I decided to give it a go. I decided to start with my SBI Fatboy Comp Carbon since it was already a 1X12. I kept my HR as close to 175 as possible on all three sections.
> 
> I used 1.2 mile section as the first test. This section is flatish with 25 ft of elevation gain all in one climb. On this section I was 6 seconds faster. Same bike. Same conditions. PR on Strava. Even faster than my 29er.
> 
> ...


I tried the same approach when switching from the round to oval ring this summer. I did get several PR's after making the switch, but I didn't feel right attributing it all to the oval since my training had been geared toward overall performance rather than individual segments. There were a couple of segments that I had been trying to KOM before the switch, and while I had been steadily gaining progress on them it seemed like I made a much bigger jump after the oval (think 1-2 second gains before and a solid 4 second gain after on a 3-minute segment). For me the biggest improve has been in overall endurance. On races with bigger climbing demands (2,300' over an 18 mile loop), I'm still climbing strong on the back half of the race and even setting PR's and top 5 (overall) performances.


----------



## dkharris111 (Sep 20, 2011)

Mine were back to back. I was able to swap the ring at the trail head. In my area we don't have many long climbs but would say I would agree with your assessment. The area I really see the benefit is when the trail transitions from level or DH to a steep climb. It just gives a confidence without the need to shift to a lower gear.


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

[Jump to bottom for solution! The powerlink wasn't fuly clicked!]
Been a happy user of AB 32 oval on my Epic FS....I'm building up an Epic HT with 148 boost. Had a bike shop install Raceface PF30 BB, Raceface Cinch Powermeter spindle, and Raceface Next SL G4 cranks, with AB 32t Boost Oval Cinch ring for an Eagle drivetrain. Had chain length set to overlap two inner and two outer links (barely) (in other words, to overlap 4 links) while chain was on 50t cog and the AB ring with the wide sides up and down (major axis vertical).

But as soon as I turn the crank forward, the chain comes off the ring, when the chain starts to engage the flat part of the 32t.

Anybody have any thoughts? Much thanks in advance!

[Solved!] :madman:I just realized that it was coming off where the powerlink was and seemed like as if the chain was too short. Turns out that the powerlink wasn't fully engaged or clicked in! No problem now!


----------



## tungsten (Apr 7, 2006)

Christopher Robin said:


> . What's also cool is the OneUp ring actually corrects your chainline to optimize your 1x-whatever drivetrain.
> 
> .


How does it do this?


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Anyone have any concerns on the ovality causing the derailleur to oscillate back and forth? Is there significant energy loss or excessive derailleur clutch wear? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

jacksonlui said:


> Anyone have any concerns on the ovality causing the derailleur to oscillate back and forth? Is there significant energy loss or excessive derailleur clutch wear?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


If you watch it in action, you will see that there is very little movement. It doesn't concern me.


----------



## Absoluteblack (Jan 12, 2017)

jacksonlui said:


> Anyone have any concerns on the ovality causing the derailleur to oscillate back and forth? Is there significant energy loss or excessive derailleur clutch wear?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The movement of the cage due to your Oval chainring is so small as to be insignificant. Compare it to the amount a derailleur cage swings on a non-clutch, or non-engaged clutch rear mech when riding fast over bumpy ground.

It makes no difference to the transfer of power to the rear wheel - so no 'energy loss'.

As for clutch wear, also negligable to nil. The clutch is designed to have give in it. That's not to say that clutch mechs don't change feel over time or wear out. Pretty much every component on your bike does this over time.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Absoluteblack


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Thanks for the reply. Happy AB user. On my 2nd one. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Just wanted to chime in and express my happines about my AB 32T. Thing feels funny in such a nice way that I can't help but laugh when riding it. It's a very interesting effect, and I happened to find it strangely easier to pedal. So far I'm sold.
But anyway, anyone needed to re adjust their saddle positions and height after switching?


----------



## dkharris111 (Sep 20, 2011)

Deartist7 said:


> Just wanted to chime in and express my happines about my AB 32T. Thing feels funny in such a nice way that I can't help but laugh when riding it. It's a very interesting effect, and I happened to find it strangely easier to pedal. So far I'm sold.
> But anyway, anyone needed to re adjust their saddle positions and height after switching?


I don't know why saddle height would matter. That length is dictated by the crank arm length. Chainring variations won't matter.


----------



## OregonXC (Sep 1, 2004)

I dumped the absolute black oval. It was cool and worked fine. Single front chainring didn’t give enough range. Had to have a crazy cassette to almost work, still wasn’t enough for me. Put the ring and cassette on my sons bike. Went back to Shimano 2x11


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

I have an absoluteBLACK 30T Oval on my Specialized Enduro 29er. I love it and will replace it with another once it wears out. Currently one year in with about 3,700 km on it. It's been one of the best components I've bought for my bike, and I'm plan on getting a set of AB Ovals on my road bike once the round chainrings that came with it wear out.









Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

dkharris111 said:


> I don't know why saddle height would matter. That length is dictated by the crank arm length. Chainring variations won't matter.


Uhh...well, I guess I had mine set up wrong then, and the oval just made it obvious.

Anyway, the thing feels great, happy customer here!


----------



## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

OregonXC said:


> I dumped the absolute black oval. It was cool and worked fine. Single front chainring didn't give enough range. Had to have a crazy cassette to almost work, still wasn't enough for me. Put the ring and cassette on my sons bike. Went back to Shimano 2x11


Well, that wasn't the oval's fault. 1x drivetrains are simply not for you.


----------



## OregonXC (Sep 1, 2004)

Deartist7 said:


> Well, that wasn't the oval's fault. 1x drivetrains are simply not for you.


Yep not for me. Wish it was. Really liked no front derailleur.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

dkharris111 said:


> I don't know why saddle height would matter. That length is dictated by the crank arm length. Chainring variations won't matter.


The oval ring changes the muscle fiber recruitment on each pedal stroke. I could see someone wanting a slightly higher saddle height position on an oval, as their quads are doing a little more work. I already had my saddle height about maxed out, so I didn't make any adjustments personally.


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Renzo7 said:


> I have an absoluteBLACK 30T Oval on my Specialized Enduro 29er. I love it and will replace it with another once it wears out. Currently one year in with about 3,700 km on it. It's been one of the best components I've bought for my bike, and I'm plan on getting a set of AB Ovals on my road bike once the round chainrings that came with it wear out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why wait? Switching my ring to AB oval on my trainer bike was my second best move this year. Especially so since I do a lot of recovery rides where I focus on pedaling drills/technique. The initial switch on the MTB felt amazing, but I think over time I started to become a little too quad dominant and wasn't doing enough pulling in my pedal stroke. I'm now smoothing that out on the trainer and looking forward to applying it on the MTB next season.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

steelhmr said:


> Why wait? Switching my ring to AB oval on my trainer bike was my second best move this year. Especially so since I do a lot of recovery rides where I focus on pedaling drills/technique. The initial switch on the MTB felt amazing, but I think over time I started to become a little too quad dominant and wasn't doing enough pulling in my pedal stroke. I'm now smoothing that out on the trainer and looking forward to applying it on the MTB next season.


That's an interesting point. Changing to ovals on my road bike would mean investing over $180 + shipping, though, and there are a few other things that I need to change before I can do that anyway.

Did you change both ovals on the road bike at the same time? I spend most of my time on the 52T, so I guess that would be first if I only changed one.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

Renzo7 said:


> That's an interesting point. Changing to ovals on my road bike would mean investing over $180 + shipping, though, and there are a few other things that I need to change before I can do that anyway.
> 
> Did you change both ovals on the road bike at the same time? I spend most of my time on the 52T, so I guess that would be first if I only changed one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


I just got a 50T. I'm only using my road bike on the trainer, and that covers all the gears I need for now. I barely ever ride on the road though. Even so I should still be able to climb all but the steepest of hills on it, comfortably. (rear cassette is 11-32)


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

I've got a friend on ovals on road. I like the oval on my XC bike, not sure I would bother with it on road. I might borrow my friends oval for my Enduro, but not sure I will switch that out (his is a 30, mines' a 32).

My road is 55/42 (until I swap to 52/39). I do some pretty big climbs in my area and primarily ride road.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Thanks for your comments 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Thats interesting that a few posts says ovals rely more on your quads which isnt what i want. I'd rather utilize all my muscles equally. I wonder if the oval provides temporary gains because our quads are stronger. Are we hurting ourselves in the long run?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## steelhmr (Sep 30, 2011)

jacksonlui said:


> Thats interesting that a few posts says ovals rely more on your quads which isnt what i want. I'd rather utilize all my muscles equally. I wonder if the oval provides temporary gains because our quads are stronger. Are we hurting ourselves in the long run?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I probably defer to saying quads, since they are muscle group that fatigues first for me whether I'm using an oval or round ring. I should have written the references to "quads" as the pushing phase of the stroke (say 11-5 on the dial), where it is well established that one is using way more muscle groups than their quads: https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/the-primary-muscles-used-for-cycling-and-how-to-train-them/

I don't know if the oval specifically uses the quads more than it uses the other muscle groups that are all accentuated in the pushing phase of a pedal stroke on the oval? What I was really getting at, in my experience, is that there is an accompanying decrease in power of the pulling phase (say 5-11 on the dial) on the pedal stroke with the oval. The pulling phase makes up only a small part of the overall power that one produces, so it is easy enough to ignore and instead just exploit the mechanical advantage in the pushing phase.

I didn't really notice until I got on the trainer where my pedaling cadence is more even than what is normally a dynamic range if cadences for me outdoors. It just seemed maybe like I wasn't exactly thinking of pedaling in circles (no pun intended) and was just relying on the oval to do the pedaling thinking for me (if that makes sense). In the end, right now that is, I'm trying to just consciously trying to put a little more force into the pulling phase (or at least the transition from 5-7). And that's where perhaps the 2nd most useful aspect of the oval lies - minimizing dead zones in the pedal stroke.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Thx for the clarification. I don't consciously pull. I guess im more of a masher on my flats. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## wayold (Nov 25, 2017)

Just a further confirmation that the AB ovals work with Eagle drivetrains. I got a new 29er bike with X01 Eagle and 32T chainring. Being old, weak and used to the granny gears in my previous 2x10 bike I replaced the 32T round with a 28T AB oval. Four rides totalling about 50 miles so far and no problems at all. Makes those 20-25% climbs around here much less fatiguing (though that's probably the effect of the gearing rather than the ovality).


----------

