# Headset binding issue



## liv_rong (Apr 11, 2008)

I have a Cane Creek 110 that had no issues last year or for the first few rides this season. I overhauled the bike and also cut the steerer tube on the fork and ever since there is binding. Playing with the bolt it goes from lose to tight and binding in 1/8th a turn, there is no middle ground it seems. I have an idea of what the problem could be, when I cut the steerer tube the cut somehow went crooked even using a guide. Now I am thinking when I pushed the star nut back down further that once the tool bottomed out on the crooked cut it made the star nut crooked and is now causing uneven pressure on the bearing when the bolt is tightened down. Is this possible? Any other ideas? Everything is assembled correctly. I cant think of any other reasons for this. Thanks for your help.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

When you say it's bindings, are you talking about the headset to the star nut bolt?


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## liv_rong (Apr 11, 2008)

bad mechanic said:


> When you say it's bindings, are you talking about the headset to the star nut bolt?


The headset. It doesnt spin smooth and freely and sometimes tracks weird in turns.


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## Kristatos (Oct 15, 2007)

liv_rong said:


> I have an idea of what the problem could be, when I cut the steerer tube the cut somehow went crooked even using a guide. Now I am thinking when I pushed the star nut back down further that once the tool bottomed out on the crooked cut it made the star nut crooked and is now causing uneven pressure on the bearing when the bolt is tightened down. Is this possible?


I'd put money on this being the cause. Did you leave any extra steerer above/below the stem? If yes, you could have it cut to make a flush top for the dust cap to fit into.


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## liv_rong (Apr 11, 2008)

Yes, there is some room to make another cut to straighten it out. Ill have to take it to another shop since the one I used is clearly messed up for whatever reason. I thought more about it today because I cut a steerer tube for another fork for a different bike and was super careful to make sure it was clamped down correctly but it still cut crooked. So when I installed the star nut I was also careful not to pound it flush with the tube like before. No problems with this one.


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## Mike87 (Apr 8, 2010)

The cut on the top of the steerer tube has nothing to do with the headset stackup. The lower bearing seats against the crown race and the upper one seats against the upper guide. The stem then clamps the whole mess together. Even if the top of the tube were crooked/angled it plays no part in seating the bearings.

I put my money on a bent steerer tube (probably somewhere in the middle of its length) or a bent head tube on the bike.

I have at least two bikes with angled steerer tube cuts and have no bearing binding issues.

Good Luck,
Mike


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## osmarandsara (Jun 26, 2006)

My guess is that your head-set is installed incorrectly.....you either left something out, or something is in the wrong order, or you have one of the parts up-side down........if you leave the top-cap off completely and as long as your stem is on the steerer it will have zero effect on how the headset feels when your turn it.

Once I installed the upper sealed cartridge-bearing up-side down on my head-set and had binding issues like you describe. 

I would take it apart and re-assemble......go to your headset manufacturer's website for diagrams on how everything should be stacked if you are not sure how everything goes together.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

The top cap shouldn't make the headset bind, nor should a cut which isn't straight. It's the stem which interfaces with the headset, and the stem is located by the walls of the steerer tube and not the top. Unless the stem were crooked, it shouldn't cause the fork to bind. Instead, I would recommend pulling the fork back off and making sure your crown race is straight and correctly seated, and everything in the headset is straight and correctly positioned.


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## liv_rong (Apr 11, 2008)

Took it all apart again this morning to double check and everything seemed in order except a dust seal was upside down. Flipping it didnt solve the problem though. Also there was wear on the upper cup where it meets the top bearing cover; the ano had rubbed off to bare aluminum in a spot about 3/4" around the front circumference. So I brought it to a good shop and he recommended facing the frame and reinstalling it. I didnt do that when I installed it. Still odd though that there were no problems last season.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

If your headtube wasn't faced, it could absolutely cause it. 

You may have simply gotten lucky before.


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

I'm having this issue today with a bike I just put together. I know I have the star nut in just a little too far, and slightly off center, but am able to get the bolt tight enough, but there is some slight resistance when I move fork side to side. 

I can't find that sweet spot between where the fork wobbles/knocks, and where the headset spins completely free. It does spin smooth, just seems to have slight resistance. If I spin the fork (without bars or wheels) it maybe spins 1/2 to one revolution then stops.

Could a misaligned star nut be a cause? Also possibly lack of much adjustment between too tight / not tight enough due to star nut pushed in too far?

Did facing your head tube solve the problem? Mine is not faced either, however was hoping with a niner frame it would be good from the factory.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I had an incorrectly seated crown race on a new fork that caused a similar symptom once. As said before the load is held by the stem and crown race not the starnut 

Always a good idea to face headtube and BB shells before installing a new one, but I didn't bother with my AIR 9 frame as it was plum when I got it.


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## Slash5 (Nov 27, 2011)

crrimson said:


> Could a misaligned star nut be a cause?


No.
I was about to say yes but thought about it more. I was thinking the bolt would oscillate but then realized that the stem and handle bars swing as a unit.
When tightening the headset, an out of line star nut would pull the headset crooked but when the stem was tightened, it would pull everything back into line.
An easy check would be to set everything up, tighten the stem and them remove the star nut bolt and test - at that point it doesn't do anything.


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

Gotcha. This is an air9 as well. I think I'm probably just second-guessing my work. 

It turns very smooth, just a little more resistance than I would expect. I have no doubt when the bars are on it, and the wheel is on it, riding the bike it won't be noticed. I put a wheel on the new fork as a test, and spun the headset, it rotated several full rotations before it stopped.

I was comparing it to the ease of rotation from the cranks I just installed (no resistance at all) to the ease of moving this fork/stem/headset bearings, slight resistance. it's easy to turn but it does stop in one position after spinning it, and I can hear the bearings turning, but still it is a smooth sound. I guess it's one of those cases where I wish someone who built a lot of bikes could just take a look and tell me if I"m making too big of a deal out of it. I know it will work and not noticeable riding, but who knows, maybe the bearings wear out faster than they should... guess I'll just have to find out .


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