# Changing handlebar for wrist tendonitis?



## myersv (May 28, 2012)

I had posted a thread a few weeks ago related to serious wrist tendonitis I was having. After posting, I ended up fitting my mountain bike. I rode a few more times and realized that the pain came from having to move my index and middle finger in order to brake. The wrist angle and moving my fingers provoked this; my orthopedist later confirmed this.

In any case, I ended up removing the left brakes. Unfotrunately, it seems that since it's already injured, just the pressure's enough to worsen the pain.

With that said, I have decided to change the handlebar to either bullhorn or drop bars.

Do you guys think this will improve the situation? I'm thinking that since the grip is vertical to the handlebar instead of horizontal, the wrist will have a different angle.

Any help is appreciated.

I'm including the type of tendonitis that I have and the handlebar that I want to avoid.

Thanks.


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I would look for something like the Answer 20/20 that has an exaggerated backsweep.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

jeffj said:


> I would look for something like the Answer 20/20 that has an exaggerated backsweep.


^ yup, the Salsa Bend II handlebars are a similar concept with slightly different execution and made of aluminum not carbon. both handlebars have 21-23 degrees of sweep IIRC, and is generally considered easier on the hands/wrists. Pair that with an Ergon Grip and it makes for a very comfortable hand position. there are many threads on "Alt bars" and the different designs. i would do some searching and read about different setups and what's currently available.

as far as drop bars, many people have done it but it can take a little trial and error to set up and doesn't work great with every frame. You'll want to look at "dirt drops" with flair. Salsa Woodchipper, On One Midge, Origin8 Gary, Soma Junebug, etc. Check out the "Monster cross" thread for lots of examples. You'll need a new stem and brake levers, and mechanical brakes a-la Avid BB7's or similar.

Bullhorns? not so much.

I'd try the Salsa Bend II with Ergon grips first before investing the time and money in trying to set up dirt drops. it's worth reading up on though so you can decide if the concept has merit for your application.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I think perhaps going the opposite way and suggest trying wider bars with less sweep. You could try simulating it with something like grabbing a broom handle and spacing your hands different widths keeping your elbows appropriately bent to see if how that affects your wrists. 

You say you removed the left brake, which ordinarily would be the front brake. The front brake can provide much more stopping power then the rear and that is a significant safety/performance consideration. 

Many mountain bikers brake using their index fingers and move the brake levers inward on the bars so that the end of the lever lines up with their index finger. This, and experimenting with the up/down angle of the levers on the bars may be helpful.


----------



## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

I get hand issues of a different kind. Straight bars are not ideal as your hand doesn't naturally fall that way. Riser bars with sweep are more comfortable.

Also, having bar-ends lets you move your hands around more which can help a lot.

If pulling the brakes is a problem, are you using Shimano hydraulic brakes? They need a very light touch for even hard braking. One finger is all you ever need.


----------



## armii (Jan 9, 2016)

Also with riser bars you can roll the whole bar up and down to change the angle some for a better feel. And once you have the bar where it is most comfortable move the brake levers up and down and try them in different positions. sometimes with levers, the most comfortable position is not the one that causes the least stress on the wrists when applying the brakes. 
I have moved my levers so I only use my index fingers and I always cover the rear brake. I have rolled them up higher than most people to relieve pressure on my forearms, an old motocross trick for reducing arm pump.


----------



## bakerjw (Oct 8, 2014)

I often have hand numbness and wrist issues on my road bike and my mountain bike. Last year I rode part of the Tour Divide and used Jones H bars. After multiple double digit hours in the saddle, I didn't have any numbness.
I used an adjustable stem and used that and the tilt of the handlebars to get a fit where my palm rested evenly on the bar. I then wrapped in padding where the center of my palm would rest.
Where a flat bar forces your elbows up and away from your body, this alignment dropped my elbows into a more natural position. It doesn't give as much leverage for riding single track, but for just pedaling away all day, it worked very well.


----------



## myersv (May 28, 2012)

Thanks for all the posts.

Something I forgot to mention: even though I have a mountain bike, I only ride on roads. I'm a casual rider and so far, there hasn't been a need for the left (front) brake. But the damage has been done, and just the pressure at that angle is hurting the wrist.

I currently have a riser bar, and that hasn't helped any. It's the way the skin folds with these horizontal bars that I want avoid.


----------



## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Jones Loops for me. I have a shoddy repair from a broken forearm years ago. Wrist hurts bad after long rides. Much better with the Jones bars.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Either way, removing the front brake is bad for braking power. You're better off removing the rear brake. If your left hand is the problem, set your brake up to be right/front. You can even look into setups where the right hand activates both brakes, which would be the best solution if your pain is truly debilitating.

If using a mtb, your best bet is to try handlebars with different configurations to see if any of them alleviate your problems before going to drop bars. If you go drop bar, then you are going to run into a bunch of compatibility problems with levers. You cannot just mount your mtb controls onto any drop bar. The bar diameters are different. So unless this is a nice bike and spending a decent amount of additional money to address those compatibility issues is not a problem for you (hint* it's going to cost you a lot more money to buy new shifters/brake levers than it will for the bars and a shorter stem to go along with them), you're better off buying a new bike built around drop bars to begin with.

But in that vein, I'm a huge fan of flared drop bars. I'm not a big fan of Woodchippers, because of the way the drops continue to flare outward. I have Salsa Cowchipper bars on my city bike, though, which I LOVE. The drop position flares out from the hood position, but the drops themselves run straight back, which I prefer. They do provide a substantially different position from mtb bars, though. That may or may not be what works for you, so I'd go out and try some before committing, because either route you choose will be a pretty significant commitment if you go with drop bars.


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> I get hand issues of a different kind. Straight bars are not ideal as your hand doesn't naturally fall that way. Riser bars with sweep are more comfortable.
> 
> Also, having bar-ends lets you move your hands around more which can help a lot.
> 
> If pulling the brakes is a problem, are you using Shimano hydraulic brakes? They need a very light touch for even hard braking. One finger is all you ever need.


Between the easy squeezy and the reach adjust, I'd agree with this as a possible solution.


----------



## myersv (May 28, 2012)

Since the mountain bike's already damaged and it's rather old, I will be purchasing a road bike.

By removing the left brake I was seeing if it would alleviate the problem. Unfortunately, it didn't. I gather that once the ligaments are injured, just the pressure at that same angle will exarcebate the pain.

My goal is to find a handlebar where the wrist is at a completely different angle.


----------



## milliesand (Jun 29, 2015)

Before you just run out and buy a new bike....

Rent one for a day or two. If it turns out you can't ride drops either, it isn't as much of $$$ loss.

just switched over to the Jones H bar mentioned few times already It was easy to switch as everything (shifters, brakes) fits both bars


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

milliesand said:


> Before you just run out and buy a new bike....
> 
> Rent one for a day or two. If it turns out you can't ride drops either, it isn't as much of $$$ loss.
> 
> just switched over to the Jones H bar mentioned few times already It was easy to switch as everything (shifters, brakes) fits both bars


I would say to try more than one. Make sure the bikes you're trying are on the more upright side of things. Endurance road geometry, touring bikes, casual gravel bikes, etc. I'd err towards bigger tires for more cush. Or anything that reduces the harshness of the ride. I have a feeling that too much harshness will irritate your wrists regardless of the bar shape.


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jeffj said:


> I would look for something like the Answer 20/20 that has an exaggerated backsweep.


I believe I've already suggested this in another of the OPs thread.

Also, Jenson has the Niner Bars with 17 degrees of backsweep on sale. Niner Low Top RDO 720 Carbon Handlebar > Components > Handlebars > Mountain Bars | Jenson USA

I have one of each- love them.


----------



## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

This is because you are doing it wrong. The problem has to be mostly you. I've watched family members so this same thing.

Your bar most likely needs to be swept up(which will rotate your brakes downward)

Put your brake back on. Point it way down so you can grab it. Rear brake alone will not stop you, especially when it fades.

At this point, grab some TOGS and or ergons with bar-ends. In the mean time, ride with your thumb over the bar at times. This will immediately relieve pain. I do this in races in flat areas and tingling subsides in under a minute.

Make sure you have gloves that give you enough grip to sit the bar far down in your palm.

Also try an alternate grip by straightening your thumb out and using it to draw an imaginary line across your hand. Try this bar position for your problem hand.

One last thing that certainly helps is to get good at riding with no hands sitting straight up. You will build tremendous core muscles this way and can take breaks as needed.



myersv said:


> Thanks for all the posts.
> 
> Something I forgot to mention: even though I have a mountain bike, I only ride on roads. I'm a casual rider and so far, there hasn't been a need for the left (front) brake. But the damage has been done, and just the pressure at that angle is hurting the wrist.
> 
> I currently have a riser bar, and that hasn't helped any. It's the way the skin folds with these horizontal bars that I want avoid.


----------



## ViperDom (Sep 28, 2016)

Salsa Bend 2

I just put the 17deg one on my hardtail that I mainly use for road rides and like the wrist comfort that it provides. Cant wait to hit the trails with it as well.

For you, I recommend going with the 23deg variant paired with some ergon grips.

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/anyone-running-salsa-bend-2-bars-17-v-23-a-772495.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/components/s...fort-bars-ok-mountain-biking-too-1022214.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/salsa/salsa-bend-2-bar-732064.html


----------



## ViperDom (Sep 28, 2016)

Overall body location/geometry on the bike is important. No matter what bar you pick it might also require a different stem length or position to achieve best fit to maximize your comfort.


----------



## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

Products | Origin8

Plenty of options

Batwing, Space, Citi, Transits, Tikis. Not promoting the brand, many others offer similar options. But a decent resource to get some ideas.

I'm no physio, but I would guess that something that puts your hands parallel with the bike (like the Tiki) would provide the most relief for your injury as it totally changes the hand position and loads on your wrists. I guess carbon might also aid in reducing vibration and irritation.


----------

