# Rolhoff vs I-Motion 9 vs Alfine?



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

I have an Alfine, a Nexus 8R35 (the latest version with Alfine guts) and an I-Motion 9. I've ridden the I-M9 ~200 miles, the Alfine/Nexus about 50 miles.

- The Alfine/Nexus shifts like butter, the I-M9 shifts like an old Sturmey-Archer 3 speed.
- The Alfine/Nexus is silent, the I-M9 clicks in 7th, 8th and 9th.
- The Alfine can use the Nexus8 grip shifter, so you have the option of thumb or grip.
- I-M9 is only grip shift.
- The I-M9 shift gaps are better spaced, the Alfine/Nexus steps force me to change my speed to be at my perferred cadance (80-95 rpm).
- If you follow the I-M9 specs, the lowest gear combo allowed is 34/20. This result of this requirement is that compared to the Alfine/Nexus, the I-M9 hub has more higher gears, no chance for lower gears unless the hub is used far outside of it's specs. 

- I-M9 with a legal 34/20 has a low gear of 27 inches and a high gear of 91 inches. 27 inch gear isn't low enough for MTB'ing, 91 inch gear is useless for MTB'ing. To make the I-M9 low gear similar to a deraillieur set up of 22/30 it requires a 32/22 combo, not sure the I-M9 can take it.

- The Alfine/Nexus with a 32/22 gear gives a low gear of 22 inches, equivelent to a 22/30 (deraillieur style), a high gear of 68 inches. This is a great option for someone looking at a 1/9 set-up.

When I first rode the Alfine, I was sure I'd never look at my I-M9 hub again. After a few weeks of Alfine/Nexus ridng, I'm starting to appreciate the I-M9 gear spacing. 

Anyone have cross experience with the Rolhoff and the Alfine/Nexus or the I-M9? I am wondering how the Rolhoff shifts compared to the Alfine and I-M9.


----------



## kbiker3111 (Apr 20, 2005)

I've used the Rohloff for ~25 hrs. Used a Nexus on a long hybrid ride once. Used a Sturmey XK8 ~35 hrs. Never used a I-M9.

The Rohloff is definitely the cream of the crop. It shifts the smoothest. The upshifts use cable tension, not a cable return spring, so they're just as smooth as the downshifts. Once you get it dialed in (which can be trickier than the Nexus), there is very little skipping (clicking?). With the Rohloff there can be too many gears (at least compared to a nexus). Just look at the numbers 526% over 14 gears vs 306% over 8. I'm not sure about the gaps, but I know I'd often skip a Rohloff gear because I didn't need it. Obviously, the Rohloff is the only hub expressly designed for MTBing, so thats worth keeping in mind.


----------



## aequitas (May 6, 2008)

the i9 is "not intended for touring or mountain bike use" according to the manual. Also it is heavier than the Rohloff.

I rode an i9 for ~500 miles and it was ok except the grip shift continuously needed to be adjusted because the barrel adjuster didn't stay put. Also, the hub is quite noisy in about half the gears.

Lastly, it will NOT work with long cables. We have one setup on a Surly Big Dummy and it just will not work right at all. Continuous talk with SRAM resulted in "not intended application" I believe.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

aequitas said:


> the i9 is "not intended for touring or mountain bike use" according to the manual....


If those are out, what does SRAM expect us to do with it?


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

kbiker3111 said:


> ...The Rohloff is definitely the cream of the crop. It shifts the smoothest....


It would be interesting to hear from someone that has used the Alfine and the Rolhoff.



> the Rohloff is the only hub expressly designed for MTBing


We don't really know what use level the Alfine was designed to. There are riders with lots of MTB'ing miles on their Alfines.


----------



## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

pursuiter said:


> The Alfine/Nexus with a 32/22 gear gives a low gear of 22 inches, equivelent to a 22/30 (deraillieur style), a high gear of 68 inches. This is a great option for someone looking at a 1/9 set-up.


I was wondering about this... I just laced an Alfine wheel for my Pugsley with a 22 tooth cog. My front ring is currently a 33, but I know that with some hubs there are concerns about gearing them too low. Nothing official on the Alfine.

I take it that, in your limited experience, the hub hasn't exploded into shards of metal with the low gearing. I wouldn't mind having that super low gearing I can get with a 33-22.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

anthony.delorenzo said:


> I take it that, in your limited experience, the hub hasn't exploded into shards of metal with the low gearing....


Not yet


----------



## aequitas (May 6, 2008)

pursuiter said:


> If those are out, what does SRAM expect us to do with it?


Use it on a light duty commuter bike with flat bars ... or a paperweight.


----------



## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

pursuiter said:


> Anyone have cross experience with the Rolhoff and the Alfine/Nexus or the I-M9? I am wondering how the Rolhoff shifts compared to the Alfine and I-M9.


Nexus (7,8,red-band)/alfine and rohloff user.

The rohloff shifts faster. However you have to unlearn deraileur shifting first - ie; not to lead the shift. Becuase once the shifter clicks, you are in gear. On the nexus/alfine, this does not matter.

There are some major differences between a rohloff and the rest, price being one.


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I have a Rohloff [external gear mech] and a Nexus 8...the shifting action of the Nexus 8 is nicer - more positive, lighter action and can shift under load better, Having said that the Rohloff has a much wider gear range and feels much more reliable to me. If I was going to India for 6 months of touring I would take the Rohloff without hesitation.

If I could have the shifting of the Nexus 8 with the gear range/reliability/service life of the Rohloff I'd be super happy.

cheers,

Vik


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

vikb said:


> ...If I could have the shifting of the Nexus 8 with the gear range/reliability/service life of the Rohloff I'd be super happy....


The more I ride the Alfine/Nexus, the more I miss the I9 gear spacing.

Right now there's two choices (and death is not an option  ):

Butter smooth shifting AND bad gear spacing OR classic "crash box" shifting AND good gear spacing, I'll take the good gear spacing with the classic crash box gears. I was weaned on Sturmey-Archer 3 speeds, miss a shift on those and you payed, this new stuff is much better shifting 

I pored over the I9 documentation, all I found was a brochure that says it's for touring and urban. It doesn't sound like it's dying when I crank it out of the saddle, in 1st gear, up a steep hill. I'll abuse it another 500 miles and then open it up and see how it's doing :skep:


----------



## tsteiner (Oct 9, 2008)

pursuiter said:


> - If you follow the I-M9 specs, the lowest gear combo allowed is 34/20. This result of this requirement is that compared to the Alfine/Nexus, the I-M9 hub has more higher gears, no chance for lower gears unless the hub is used far outside of it's specs.
> 
> - I-M9 with a legal 34/20 has a low gear of 27 inches and a high gear of 91 inches. 27 inch gear isn't low enough for MTB'ing, 91 inch gear is useless for MTB'ing. To make the I-M9 low gear similar to a deraillieur set up of 22/30 it requires a 32/22 combo, not sure the I-M9 can take it.
> 
> - The Alfine/Nexus with a 32/22 gear gives a low gear of 22 inches, equivelent to a 22/30 (deraillieur style), a high gear of 68 inches. This is a great option for someone looking at a 1/9 set-up.


I was under the impression (from hubstripping.com) that the minimum ratio for i9 was 1.73:1 while Alfine/Nexus is 2:1. Meaning you can't (shouldn't  ) run an Alfine at 32/22. Running the i9 at 38/22 (1.727:1) gives a low gear of 24 inches. Of course it all comes down to how game you are and your intended use. I worry about exceeding the specs because I'm into cargo bikes and even take heavy loads just getting to work.


----------



## bstiff (Jul 21, 2004)

pursuiter said:


> It would be interesting to hear from someone that has used the Alfine and the Rolhoff.


If the Nexus red band (SG-8R25) has the same guts as the Alfine, I'm your huckleberry.

I set my old Bontrager (formerly single-speed) up with a Nexus so we could have a bike for dragging the Chariot around. We take it on fairly hilly rides around town, and Wife rides it on local trails from time to time if there's some issue on her Superlight that I haven't addressed. Here are my observations:
- The Nexus's shifting is indexed by the shifter; thus, it has the same problem as any derailed drive train. If the cables have stretched, or there's crap in the cables, or something Just Ain't Quite Right, it does irritating stuff, like sluggish/incomplete shifts and noisemaking.
- It tends, especially when shifting under heavy load, to go to lunch for a half-pedal or so, or it might shift, then suddenly go "CHONK!!!" after a couple pedal revs. Always ends up in gear, but I've always wondered if the guts are going to totally cut loose some time and I'll end up landing my junk on the stem. But, unlike the Rohloff, at least it shifts under pretty much _any_ load.
- I only recently found out about the vertical-dropout no-turn washers, while perusing the Harris Cyclery gearhub parts list. Since I installed them, I've had better luck keeping the axle from moving around, and the cable guide (what's that thing called?) is oriented better to set the cable up.
- The 36-hole Nexus/Airoheat wheel with a wire-bead 2.1 Velociraptor is, I'm almost positive, heavier than my 32-hole Speedhub/Delgado with a 2.35 K-bead Nevegal and a six-inch rotor. That said, I need to verify that; I could just be thinking that the back wheel is way heavier than I remember when it had a Surly 1x1 in some Mavic rim.
- The Nexus tends to make a good bit of noise in several gears. The shell hasn't been consistently coated in oil or grease, so it should still be full of lube. It just doesn't impart the same sense of bombproofness as the Speedhub.

The Nexus gets quite a bit less mileage and abuse than my Speedhub. I've had both for just slightly less than I've had my son (just over two years), but I didn't really ride the Speedhub until spring of 07, after I bought a new shifter. The eBay auction where I bought the hub didn't come with a shifter, thus offsetting the apparent savings of getting the complete set-up (plus a Galfer 8-inch rotor and adapter) at the price that I got. The guy I bought it from claimed he's just gotten it back from having all the fiddly bits inside replaced because he somehow let all the oil leak out, then ground the guts inside into an expensive heap of chips. Thus, the hub was effectively new, in spite of the low-ish (27xxx) serial number and the outward wear. I had it on a too-big Inbred 29er last year, then built up a Voodoo Dambala just before 24 Hours of Moab last year, which I've ridden since as my only mtn bike. Adjusting the chain tension (annoying slider dropouts) is the only thing I've done to the drivetrain, except for slopping some oil on the chain from time to time, and changing the oil this past spring.

In comparison, the hub with the clever black bird on it is unfailingly predictable, except for that gol-dang 7<->8 shift that sometimes isn't quite done when I start pedaling again (which, in itself, is predictable). It's gotten substantially quieter over time, except for those two gears (3? and 6?) that seem to get all of the gears in the hub aligned in some less-than perfect arrangement that turns pedaling energy into heat for the oil in the hub. Unfortunately, as I'm sure you're aware, the biggest problem is that adjustment that you have to make to your pedaling to accommodate shifts, but it's really not a problem. After familiarity with the hub is learned, I rarely find myself in the wrong gear.

The best part of it is the fact that the _hub_ defines where shifts happen in the shifter throw, similar to thumbshifters set to friction. There is no indexing on the shifter. If the cables stretch or Something Ain't Quite Right, the worst that happens is that the numbers on the grip don't match the gear I'm in (this has never happened to me since I figured out how to set up the clickbox, except for the once when the shifter got moved while I was changing a flat or otherwise removing the back wheel). I rarely pay attention to numbers on the shifter, either in the past with Rapidfire or Gripshift, or now with the Speedhub, so it wouldn't bother me if the numbers didn't match.

That just about covers it, or at least it better. Sorry for the dissertation. Hopefully it sheds some light on the comparative experience.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

bstiff said:


> That just about covers it, or at least it better. Sorry for the dissertation. Hopefully it sheds some light on the comparative experience...


nice post, btw, I have the newer 8R35, near as I can tell, it has the same roller clutches as the Alfine.


----------



## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

tsteiner said:


> I was under the impression (from hubstripping.com) that the minimum ratio for i9 was 1.73:1 while Alfine/Nexus is 2:1. Meaning you can't (shouldn't  ) run an Alfine at 32/22. Running the i9 at 38/22 (1.727:1) gives a low gear of 24 inches. Of course it all comes down to how game you are and your intended use. I worry about exceeding the specs because I'm into cargo bikes and even take heavy loads just getting to work.


Aaaah, this issue is driving me nuts. I can't seem to find any hard data on this. The only real information I have so far is that Shimano specifies the range of rear cog sizes. 2:1 seems unlikely, because I noticed that production Alfine MTBs are shipping with 32x18 gearing. I doubt they'd exceed specs on a production bike.

Mine is currently set up 33x22 while waiting for a shifter to arrive, but that low gear is almost too low to even pedal the bike without falling over. I plan on going to 39x22, which matches the smaller Shimano Alfine crankset.

But, I worry about this a lot... I am 6'6", 225 and riding 190 mm cranks. I put a lot of strain on things.


----------



## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

OK, I just called Shimano Canada and they told me no issues with gear ratios, run what ya want. I'm planning to go 39x22, we'll see how that goes.


----------



## EGF168 (Aug 13, 2007)

I like the Alfine, I said why here but you've probably already read it:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=4941190&postcount=152


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

tsteiner said:


> I was under the impression (from hubstripping.com) that the minimum ratio for i9 was 1.73:1 while Alfine/Nexus is 2:1. Meaning you can't (shouldn't  ) run an Alfine at 32/22. Running the i9 at 38/22 (1.727:1) gives a low gear of 24 inches....


missed your post, I was too busy running with scissors 

I am aware of SRAM's specs, I couldn't care less about what SRAM says, maybe the hub breaks, so what, I'll replace it. I'm looking to replace a 27 speed drivetrain with an IGH. I want to replicate a 22/30 for my low gear. Someone needs to test to destruction, if that task is left to me, so be it. Do you have any knowledge about long term life of the I9? BTW, your gear calculations are for a 26" wheel, mine are for a 29" wheel.


----------



## tsteiner (Oct 9, 2008)

anthony.delorenzo said:


> OK, I just called Shimano Canada and they told me no issues with gear ratios, run what ya want. I'm planning to go 39x22, we'll see how that goes.


I'm very surprised by this. When I changed over the stock gearing on my Nexus commuter I looked into the whole issue and have read on the Nexus techincal thingo "gear ratio must not exceed 2:1" Are you talking Alfine? Are they different? Maybe it's all just legal mumbo jumbo. They have to say it so they don't have to replace too many hubs.



pursuiter said:


> missed your post, I was too busy running with scissors
> 
> I am aware of SRAM's specs, I couldn't care less about what SRAM says, maybe the hub breaks, so what, I'll replace it. I'm looking to replace a 27 speed drivetrain with an IGH. I want to replicate a 22/30 for my low gear. Someone needs to test to destruction, if that task is left to me, so be it. Do you have any knowledge about long term life of the I9? BTW, your gear calculations are for a 26" wheel, mine are for a 29" wheel.


Go for it!! Sorry my knowledge is all just theory . I'm equally curious to see how it goes. Both my bikes and my next are all practical load carrying types. If all I was carrying was my bike and myself, and indeed, when I finally get around to building up my Surly 1x1 as a cheap Pugsley substitute, I dare say I will go to town. My (cheap chinese) Bakfiets came with a Sturmey Archer 8 speed and it's geared way below the specs (it's designed for small wheel bikes.) Not a matter of if, but when it's going to blow. I'm not worried at all, the sooner the better. That hub is seriously nasty. When it goes I'll swap it out for a NuVinci!

Ah, I see. Yes, bigger wheel = higher gear!


----------



## Morpheous (Mar 28, 2006)

Updates? Please!


----------



## john_dalhart (Nov 6, 2009)

Per Shimano, the latest Alifine (the S501 model) and the latest Nexus Premium a.k.a. "Red Band" (the 8R36 model) have a "_new torque limiter which will make it harder to damage the hub with too much pressure from the pedals_." I've perused the exploded diagrams but am unsure which parts inside the hub this might be.


----------



## mtb_robs-x (Dec 13, 2009)

*mtb and torque arm on alfine ?*

would like to consider the alfine for mtb,

5-6 years ago , when I did the 3x7, the problem was, the torque on the uphill,
would move the axel in the dropout !?

is there a fix ? is it a problem ? of course, want to run disc brakes too, thumbshifter,...

the rohloff is out of price range right now.
oh, do like it quiet, quiet, and smooth,.... idea is single chainline on mtb,
thought, I'am not raceing anymore, so torque, might not be so severe, still mtb / all mountain,...


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

mtb_robs-x said:


> ...when I did the 3x7, the problem was, the torque on the uphill,
> would move the axel in the dropout !?
> 
> is there a fix ? is it a problem ? of course, want to run disc brakes too, thumbshifter....


Still an issue with the SRAM IGHs, the stamped anti-rotational washer suck. Shimano and Sun-ray SA washers are cast, they hold the axle tight. This is an old thread, since it was started, I would say Alfine has come out on top as the economical MTB choice.

Here's my thread on the SRAM i-Motion 9 as you can read, I gave up on the im9 for mountain biking:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=440881


----------



## mtb_robs-x (Dec 13, 2009)

fork wrench on one side,

basic idea, I have , is to use a chrome-moly, harden steel, small fork wrench
on one side, with some sort of adapter to the frame, to prevent the axel
to rotate / strip, on the uphill.
since once it happens, it's not rideable, do understand the stress part,
and if too much, it can damage the hub, but like I said, on the 3x7, it did not break the hub, but was not rideable, and when it's -20C it's no fun working on the bike in the woods.

still think the alfine, should be workable, $1k less than the rohloff, does make a difference.
and be nice to have a single chainline, and quiet ride in the woods.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

mtb_robs-x said:


> ..still think the alfine, should be workable, $1k less than the rohloff, does make a difference.
> and be nice to have a single chainline, and quiet ride in the woods.


I think you've arrived at the same point most of us here have. Alfine is a great choice :thumbsup:

What are you waiting for?


----------



## Sometimes (Jun 21, 2009)

I've finally got my other 2 IGH hubs built up into wheels & onto bikes.

The Nexus red band I've put ~50 miles on so far. Mostly on-road but with ~10 miles of on-trail use. The thing I noticed with it on the ~8 miles of technical trail I tested it on was that it 'seemed' easier to shift than the Rohloff I've had for ~1 month & I've ridden on the same trail. The gear spacing of the Nexus also seems to be ideal for this type of trail. Much less shifting involved. I probably used 3 gears in total on the Nexus for the trail compared to about 4 gears for the Rohloff. Write "about" because, at least for this type of trail, it has too much gearing & I was experimenting with the different gears. Definitely has me leaning toward the Nexus (so long as ... read below) but I really need more on-trail time with both systems to make a proper personal evaluation. Emphasis on personal. YMMV.

The Nexus is on a home-built 96er rear suspension (rigid front fork) & the Rohloff was on a 29er (Alfine now) HT with the Reba locked out.

As for the Alfine, I've just put it on a bike & haven't had a chance to test it but imagine it won't be any different than the Nexus in terms of shifting characteristics. The bike it's on now belongs to someone else so I won't be doing anything more than test riding it to be sure that it's set up properly. Figure, Nexus/Alfine same-o.

Comment on what's attached to the outside of both the Alfine & Nexus.

Hokey! It's absolute cr*p! The shifting mechanism design absolutely sucks!

Forget about doing tube changes in the field. At least in any reasonable length of time. It's aggravating enough connecting/reconnecting everything indoors in a controlled environment & I can just imagine what it would be like doing it in the field. Especially in poor conditions.

I'm glad the Nexus is going on a backup/travel bike & my Rohloff on my main bike!

I don't know how many times I've already disconnected/reconnected it but it doesn't seem to get any easier. My frustration level has diminished quite a bit though now that I know what to expect. Definitely an experience not to be missed!

Seriously though, for any one having their's set up by a LBS, practicing in a controlled environment BEFORE taking the bike on the road/trail would defintiely be a good idea.

The Rohloff OTOH -- well it's easily the best. Of course. It's what you'd expect for the price.

Both the Alfine/Nexus & Rohloff required re-learning how to shift. Especially the Rohloff. I'm still learning on the Rohloff whereas with the Alfine/Nexus it's just a matter of remembering shifting is the reverse of a derailleur system (at least with my ST thumbies set in friction mode).


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

Sometimes said:


> ...Forget about doing tube changes in the field. At least in any reasonable length of time...


IMHO, this a little dramatic and has not my experience. It takes me about 1 minute extra to remove my Alfine in the field, 1 extra minute to install. I've done tube changes several time now.



> Seriously though, for any one having their's set up by a LBS, practicing in a controlled environment BEFORE taking the bike on the road/trail would defintiely be a good idea.....


Sage advice for anyone that's venturing out of cell tower range. IMHO it applies to any equipment, I've seen people mash up a deraillieur trying to install a rear wheel because they didn't have a clue.... :thumbsup:


----------



## Sometimes (Jun 21, 2009)

pursuiter said:


> IMHO, this a little dramatic and has not my experience. It takes me about 1 minute extra to remove my Alfine in the field, 1 extra minute to install. I've done tube changes several time now. ...SNIP...


Yeah, I'm being a little over dramatic. But, at this stage at least, I very much doubt it would 'only' take me about 1 minute extra to disconnect/reconnect the anchor bolt. Probably closer to 3 minutes to do both. I guess I just haven't figured out the trick of disconnecting/reconnecting the anchor bolt.

I've become pretty good at doing it inside but that's using a pair of needle nose pliers, not something I normally carry with me while riding. Previously I had been levering it out of the cassete joint but I found that method 'butchering' the plastic anchoring socket & I could easily see it being damaged beyond function using that method. Which is why I switched to needle nose pliers. Granted, it's not as if I'd need to do it every day (hopefully) & the cassette joint is relatively inexpensive so it wouldn't be much to replace it if it eventually breaks at the socket, but, still ... there's got to be a better way.

I'm currently short an anchor bolt since I put the only one I had on the bike I gave away. And I won't be getting any more until next week, which is way too long for me, so I just might try to make my own. I've got an idea for a design that might make it a little easier to disconnect/reconnect the anchor bolt in the cassette joint. I feel a time suck coming on ... :sad:

One tip for those electing to try to locate the cassette joint arm along the seatstay rather than the chainstay -- buy the wet weather version. It's arm is formed a little differently than the standard version & allows for more chain clearance. It's longer & located outward more. Another benefit for me, is that it's also easier to remove the cable housing from the arm because of it's beefy ferrule holder. Also, since the arm is longer access is easier.

I'll eventually post some pics of my different setups on the pic thread. Eventually.


----------



## rdhfreethought (Aug 12, 2006)

For the record, I haven't had any issues with field wheel removal either on my Alfine. It takes all of 10 seconds to remove the cable, 30 seconds if you have to take your ski gloves off. Also, it has held up to the abuse of Whistler, Winter Park, and Keystone bike parks on my Freeride rig. It also does fine in the snow, as long as it is above 5*F. Otherwise shifting is sluggish, or worse. Here is my 45 lb beast (Alfine 501/Hammerschmidt equipped) slogging through the Colorado snow.










Edit: meant to say 5F not 5C


----------



## mtb_robs-x (Dec 13, 2009)

do you need the hammerschmidt ? 

oh, very nice indeed.

and you kept the rear derailleur , basically, I'd like a single chainline,
with no front/rear deraileur if possible.
so you can ride uphill, without ripping the alfine axel out of the frame ?

5C,... does the alfine use grease ?, or can you put in oil ? oh, well, it's not winter all the time,... congrats, very nice rig/setup.


----------



## rdhfreethought (Aug 12, 2006)

Robs-x:

That is the tensioner. Most modern rear suspensions move forward and aft as they cycle through the travel. This one needs a tensioner, and the standard Alfine one is very nice and robust for this.

Things get sluggish at low temps. Diesel fuel turns to sludge, the Mineral Oil in the Saint brakes gets thick, and for whatever reason, the Alfine shifter gets sluggish. If you talk to the Alaska folks, a lot of them rebuild their hubs with some special synthetic oil for those crazy Fat bike races they do.

Edit: Yeah I DO need the HS. With it, I have essantially the gear range of a typical 3x9 setup. Also, it switches so much nicer than a regular FD I can't imagine ever going back, except on an XC race bike where less drag in overdrive would be more important.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

rdhfreethought said:


> ...If you talk to the Alaska folks, a lot of them rebuild their hubs with some special synthetic oil for those crazy Fat bike races they do.


I'm just in the lower 48, I switched a Nexus 8R35 (Alfine 500 internals) and an Alfine 501 over to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Compared to last winter, I have to say this is a big improvement. It's +4*F today and my Alfine and Nexus are shifting like butter. No hanging up, no waiting, just shifting to the next gear. I'll be interesting to see how they do when it gets to -20*F like last year.

My SRAM im9 is like a new hub. Last winter it was freezing up at ~+20*F, I now attribute that issue to water intrusion into the hub's gearbox/cliqbox that was freezing up. This year I added a few capfuls of Mobil 1 to the hub and smeared some Mobil 1 red synthetic chassic grease inside the gearbox. It's shifting very nicely at +4*F, not as smooth as the Alfine (never will be) but good enough to ride and enjoy.


----------



## Soupboy (Jan 13, 2004)

rdhfreethought said:


> That is the tensioner. Most modern rear suspensions move forward and aft as they cycle through the travel. This one needs a tensioner, and the standard Alfine one is very nice and robust for this.


Cool set up. Seems like you could take a ton of chain links out of there though. Will the Alfine tensioner let you rotate the cage forward a good distance?

I had a Rohloff tensioner on my Lenz Moth and was able to shorten the chain enough so that unloaded the tensioner was nearly parallel to the chainstay. Sagged, it dropped a bit.

Shortening it should pull the tensioner forward and up and make it less susceptible to getting damaged.


----------



## vik (Oct 13, 2005)

Sometimes said:


> Forget about doing tube changes in the field. At least in any reasonable length of time. It's aggravating enough connecting/reconnecting everything indoors in a controlled environment & I can just imagine what it would be like doing it in the field. Especially in poor conditions..


I've got an Alfine and Nexus 8 in service. Detaching and reinstalling the shifter cable takes 60 - 90 secs max once you've done it a bit. If you are still having lots of problems there might be something wrong with the way you hub is setup and/or maybe you are doing something to make it really hard.

I've done this in the desert, on the beach and side of the road with semis screaming by so not ideal clean workshop conditions.


----------



## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

vik said:


> ...I've done this in the desert, on the beach and side of the road with semis screaming by so not ideal clean workshop conditions.


I did it in the Jamaican rain forest @95*F, same experience; Alfine adds maybe 60~90 seconds total. I've been riding my for 2 full seasons now and flats aren't an issue at all. I've seen people mash up a derailliuer trying to fix a flat, some folks just can't work on their bikes....


----------



## Morpheous (Mar 28, 2006)

What is your collective take on the forthcoming Alfine 11 speed hub? (US release: Sept 2010) Did they fix the gear spacing? (I do know that they switched to an oil bath lube)

http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/2010/02/03/11-speed-alfine-hub-from-shimano/


----------



## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

My Nexus just died  It had 3 years.
(pre-Alfine version)

My Rohloff on the other hand , is still A-OK

That makes 2 Nexus @ +- 300$ each (labor and all)
I wonder how many Nexus/Alfine I'll blow off before my Speedhub dies....


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

http://thelazyrando.wordpress.com/2010/02/02/11-speed-shimano-alfine/

There are two 17% jumps and the rest are 13%...I'm not clear on which gears the big jumps will be between. Other than that I think it's hard to say much until some regular folks get them in their bikes and ride 'em a bunch. I'd like one, but I'm probably going to hold off until next summer and let Shimano work out the bugs on their first couple production runs.


----------



## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Morpheous said:


> What is your collective take on the forthcoming Alfine 11 speed hub?


Ther is this thread ; http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=590178


----------



## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

fokof said:


> My Nexus just died  It had 3 years.
> (pre-Alfine version)
> 
> My Rohloff on the other hand , is still A-OK
> ...


If you do the maintenance there is no reason you can't hand your Rohloff over to your kids...


----------



## danthesoundman (Jun 29, 2006)

Sometimes said:


> I guess I just haven't figured out the trick of disconnecting/reconnecting the anchor bolt.


To save yourself much heartache, just grab a 2 mm allen wrench and you'll find a small hole near your anchor bolt. Hmmm, perhaps I should take a picture of this...

Here's a picture of the action:










Make sure you get it in there straight - it goes kind of deep. Use said 2 mm hex wrench to lever the cable cradle down, and easily remove that anchor bolt without any additional tools or headache. It's a dream to do it this way. If you don't have a 2 mm, use an old spoke, or perhaps a toothpick, or whatever fits. (be sure to have your shifter in the lowest gear, or number 1, so the spring holds the least tension)


----------

