# Nitenumen BC-A2 XM-L2 + R5



## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Dora sent me a new light to test and I'm so impressed with it already that I had to introduce it before the review is complete. It's called the Nitenumen BC-A2 Cree XML L2 + R5 Water-resistant Dual Distance Beam LED Headlight - 1100Lm 4 Modes 4 x 18650 Battery-55.95 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com








Its a dual distance light with an XM-L2 and R5 emitter. What's cool is there are two switches that operate each emitter seperately as well as a flat remote switch, also with two buttons.














Modes on the XM-L2 flood are hold for On, H-M-L, hold for Off and the R5 spot is H-L-Off, double click for strobe. This light is super bright, indoors the flood is really wide and the spot is pretty tight. You can see the dual distance pattern on the wall and it seems as if it will work well.

I will hopefully get this light out on the trail and report on the performance with beam shots and dissambly photos soon.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

It reminds me on a very similar Palight XC40. Anyway looking forward to read the review


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

After reading that, I decided to head to a local ball field and take some simple beam shots. This light is bright and the dual system works well. The only issue is a ring in the flood beam.

Spot







Flood







Both


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## manbeer (Oct 14, 2009)

Interesting looking setup. In for the full review!


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Interesting! Looking forward to a full review. How's the thermal path to the body?

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

It just came in this afternoon, haven't taken it apart yet. Anyone know what type of screws this uses?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

MK96 said:


> It reminds me on a very similar Palight XC40. Anyway looking forward to read the review


Researching it more, leads me to think that the United Palight is a clone. Nitenumen has a website (Nitenumen Technology Co.,ltd.) and their lights have a 24 month warranty. They even have a phone number and service hotline. All in all they seem more professional than most Chinese lights


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## Ian_C (Sep 27, 2012)

The one LED version of that light looked kind of silly. That cooling fin on the side is really just a style statement, to make it look cool. I saw this one a week ago, and was dying to try it.

If the fin were built across the top, with maybe two more connections to the body, a slight scoop at the font to grab air, and tubercles ** on the leading edge to create vortices, thus drawing away more heat, it would be a true engineering innovation. It might take some testing to make sure it didn't whistle.

A decent looking remote on a light in this price point ups the ante for the big boys. I've been considering ways to add one to some of my lights.

I look forward to the review, and hope this light turns out interesting. Hopefully the guts have an efficient thermal path, and the modes and spacing are good.


** A few years ago while studying humpback whales, researchers got curious about the fluid dynamics of the bumps (tubercles) on the leading edge of it's fins. Convention wisdom has always been that a smooth leading edge cuts through the water (or air) evenly and creates more lift, hence fan blade and aircraft wings have that smooth edge. What they discovered was that the tubercles created spinning vortices, which created more lift than the smooth edge.

This is starting to appear in wind turbines. In different application the mini tornadoes carry away more heat, by exposing more of the air column to the surface that needs cooling.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> Anyone know what type of screws this uses?


To me, it looks like ordinary hex/Allen on this photo:
https://img.gearbest.com/gb/2014/201412/source-img/1419812630796-P-2309328.jpg


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

GJHS said:


> Modes on the XM-L2 flood are hold for On, H-M-L, hold for Off and the R5 spot is H-L-Off, double click for strobe.


A driver that doesn't have OFF as part of the normal cycle, about time!


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Isn't that overcomplicated UI for a 2 led light? I appreciate OFF is out of normal cycle, still the light seems small to have two buttons so close to each other. I can imagine my bike gloves wouldn't like this distance.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

The buttons seems to be of different height - this may improve situation a bit. Also, there's a remote. For me, push-button controls on the back of light are inconvenient as such, especially if used with rubber O-ring mounts. To my personal taste, most convenient is a mechanical trigger like "micro joystick", but it's rarely used, unfortunately.

One example is, an Ukrainian NightKeeper light:

NightKeeper - Подробное описание - VRP lights


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Oops, I've forget to translate description of mode controls:

Joystick -
Quick move upward - ON (Normal brightness)
Hold (longer than 1 sec) upward - TURBO brightness
Quick move downward - LOW
Hold (longer than 1 sec) downward - OFF

Button -
Short click - cycle: Flood + Throw beams, Flood beam, Throw beam.
Hold (longer than 1 sec) - Strobe (exit by single click)


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Yes remote is handy if you have a free space to place it  Wish more lights will come with a remote option. I am still a bit uncertain about the button placing but I don't have that light to try it


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

GJHS said:


> Modes on the XM-L2 flood are hold for On, H-M-L, hold for Off and the R5 spot is H-L-Off, double click for strobe.


I think that would drive me nuts. Having two buttons is already complicated enough, but having different UI's on each button is too much. Good luck trying to hit those buttons while it's mounted on the helmet.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Here are the beam shots from the Nitenumen

Flood Low







Flood Medium







Flood High








Spot Low







Spot High








Both High








Nitenumen on the Bars + XT40 on the Helmet
Both on High


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

The last picture is impressive! :thumbsup:


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice beamshots. Looks good on full high.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Ok Guys, here is the disassembled photos of the Nitenumen. Construction of the light seems quality and there is good waterproofing and a decent enough thermal path.

























Removing the front cover reveals the different depth reflectors and some decent gaskets.







you can see the blue gasket is angled and the case is notched to make sure its assembled correctly since the flood beam is tilted down a bit.







There is some thermal paste applied along the top. There seems to be more material on the flood side to transfer heat.







Here is the driver. You will see the solder joints are clean.































Battery and a flat rubber remote with two buttons is included







The Battery lists the specs, something not normally seen on a Chinese light battery








Being winter with snow and ice on the ground has prevented me from testing this on the trail. So far what I have seen, the brightness and the beam pattern are all very good. This makes a good single bar light with decent flood and throw. At $44 with battery and remote, its a good buy considering it comes with a two year warranty.

Coupon:"Nitenumen"
Nitenumen BC-A2 Cree XML L2 + R5 Water-resistant Dual Distance Beam LED Headlight - 1100Lm 4 Modes 4 x 18650 Battery-55.95 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

GJHS said:


> and a decent enough thermal path.


Thanks for the pics! But I can't see that thermal path on the photo: XM-L base is essentially hanging in the air (except for narrow & thin circular "lip" in the case).

I'd say, this is decent example of how the LED light should not be made...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

-Archie- said:


> Thanks for the pics! But I can't see that thermal path on the photo: XM-L base is essentially hanging in the air (except for narrow & thin circular "lip" in the case).
> 
> I'd say, this is decent example of how the LED light should not be made...


 I guess I'm comparing it to the clones that I have seen that barely have any material for the LED star to connect to and transfer heat like the SolarStorm X3. While a solid connection like the Yinding is best, these were somewhat wide, especially on the flood side.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

I think it doesn't matter here. This is not a powerful light. There should be smaller holes for the wires to the leds to keep the thermal path better. The driver comes with a shielded inductor and should not interfere with a wireless computer. I'd say a bit overengineered light what reflects the higher price.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

MK96 said:


> I think it doesn't matter here. This is not a powerful light. There should be smaller holes for the wires to the leds to keep the thermal path better. The driver comes with a shielded inductor and should not interfere with a wireless computer. I'd say a bit overengineered light what reflects the higher price.


I wonder why they make the holes for the wires so big, if the more material makes for better heat transfer.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

I often see that in various Chinese cheapies. Why? Perhaps, because they don't care...


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

MK96 said:


> I'd say a bit overengineered light what reflects the higher price.


There are two LEDs of different power - and "slightly better" heatsinking is for less powerful one. Also, when they decided what side cooling fins/tunnel should be put to - on more hot, or less hot - they've selected side where's not needed as much as on opposite one. Overengineered? I'd say, underengineered...


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

I will do some run times with the light and see how it handles the heat. Overall though, I like it, I think it's a good light. The dual beam works well and puts out a nice even light with good throw and I was surprised at how bright it was. I would say the 1100 lumens claim is accurate.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

GJHS said:


> I wonder why they make the holes for the wires so big, if the more material makes for better heat transfer.


That way they don't have to care about the surface when they mill the hole. Don't know what tool they use, but I suspect it would leave uneven surface. You have no problem if you get rid of that part. Right?


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> There are two LEDs of different power - and "slightly better" heatsinking is for less powerful one. Also, when they decided what side cooling fins/tunnel should be put to - on more hot, or less hot - they've selected side where's not needed as much as on opposite one. Overengineered? I'd say, underengineered...


Archie, from the pictures I don't see any difference in power. Both leds are equal and both sense resistors are equal, too. Can't see the which chip was used since is sanded off, but probably some sort of marked LEDA ones which are most common nowadays.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

ledoman said:


> Both leds are equal


One is 10 watt XM-L2 and other 5 watt XP-G.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

And they can recycle the material they take off the body.



ledoman said:


> That way they don't have to care about the surface when they mill the hole. Don't know what tool they use, but I suspect it would leave uneven surface. You have no problem if you get rid of that part. Right?


I mean the electronic stuff is a bit overengineered - UI, switch, ... The body design is underengineered, you're right -Archie-.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

-Archie- said:


> One is 10 watt XM-L2 and other 5 watt XP-G.


Only in description ;-) in reality they are both XM-L2.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Oops, I've overlooked that!


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

It happens. As you could see on the pictures both sense resistors are R100 thus more than 2A to each led. XP-G would not like it.

What I don't see is the IC where the modes are processed. Well, the picture of the switch back side part is missing.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

Yes, you're right. Looking briefly, I haven't noticed that different sides of driver PCB are pictured.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

-Archie- said:


> Overengineered? I'd say, underengineered...


No no no no, _reverse_ engineered!  

Asymetric side-by-side design kinda disturbing, would have been much better had the whole thing been oriented vertically.

But the beam pattern and color look pretty good in the pics. GJHS, how would you characterize the tint, CW or closer to NW? Think I'm seeing greenish/yellowish halos, possibly because of the reflectors? TI*R* optics don't seem to have as noticeable an effect.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

TIR optics you mean?! Halos/rings are definitively because of reflectors combined with XM-L(2). It can be seen in many lights since most reflectors are not designed for that particular leds. Front panels and o-rings are adding to it. See my review of HD-016.
Camera is also adding to it. It emphaze a little those rings which are less noticeable to the adaptive human eyes.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> TIR optics you mean?!...


Yes, thanks for catching that ledoman!, for some reason my stupid iPad always autocorrects TIR to TIG, dunno where it got that from.:skep:

Also noticed how the GITD O-rings in my KD 880 clone contibute to the weird green halo, especially when the spot is aimed close. Seems though that certain Crees are more prone to the blue/yellow separation thingy; wonder whether NW emitters might be the most susceptible, at least when combined with reflectors. The relatively CW XM-L2 inside my MJ-816's large OP Reflector spot gives off a distict bluish halo, but it is strictly monochromatic.

Would be interesting to see how this Nitenumen might work if it used TI*R* optics rather than reflectors.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Regarding beam profile it would act exactly as Yinidng or KD2 if you would use the same TIR optics. Since sense resistor is the same R100 there should be about the same amount of light, given it uses same regulation (LEDA) chip. There are some minor differencies in the circuit looses and heat dissipation, but not that much. Maybe this one would be even better in heat dissipation than Yinding if it would have copper stars under the leds. It has more surface to dissipate the heat which can be even more noticebly during the ride. Less heating means more light.


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## freedailydeals (Jan 31, 2015)

Hi, may I know what allen key type did you use to remove the screws? Is it metric or imperial type, size? My metric allen key does not seems to fit. Moreover, my sample unit came with rounded threads :S



GJHS said:


> I will do some run times with the light and see how it handles the heat. Overall though, I like it, I think it's a good light. The dual beam works well and puts out a nice even light with good throw and I was surprised at how bright it was. I would say the 1100 lumens claim is accurate.


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> Regarding beam profile it would act exactly as Yinidng or KD2 if you would use the same TIR optics.


Well the thing is with the Nitenumen, there are two beams with different angles and ranges. Closest other lamps I can think of are

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023304 and

ZhiShunjia ZSJ-B2 1800lm Neutral White 2-LED 4-mode High / Low Beam Bike Headlamp - Golden - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

The KD sports two ranges of TIRs on the same plane, while the ZhiShunjia reflectors point at different levels though their two reflectors look identical. The Nitenumen's reflectors OTOH are divided into spot and flood, aimed up and down. So the way its two XM-L2s diverge/overlap might alter the beam pattern as compared with the YD or K2. My guess is that TIR optics would at least mitigate the Nitenumen's weird double halos.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Yes the other problem is if the TIR lenses would fit in the Nitenumen. I was talking as they would, since there was hipotetical question.

HD-016 from any vendor (KD in this case) has reflectors not TIR lenses. See my review. The other from DX maybe can use same size TIR optics as Yinding and KD2.

I misslooked Nitenumen's reflectors are aimed to the different horizontal levels. It is not so obvious from the pictures. Taking this into account two TIR lenses would spread the light even more evenly on all distances and shurely without ugly halos. And you could experimet with different lens angles to make it most suitable. Maybe 10+25deg combo.
Again if you could make it TIR lenses to fit.


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

andychrist said:


> No no no no, _reverse_ engineered!
> 
> Asymetric side-by-side design kinda disturbing, would have been much better had the whole thing been oriented vertically.
> 
> But the beam pattern and color look pretty good in the pics. GJHS, how would you characterize the tint, CW or closer to NW? Think I'm seeing greenish/yellowish halos, possibly because of the reflectors? TI*R* optics don't seem to have as noticeable an effect.


The tint is closer to CW without being blue. I don't see any green nor yellow halos (see ball field beam shots), I think the icy road may have thrown the color off a bit.

As far as optics, I think you could swap the shallow flood reflector with a TIR which would smooth out the beam. I, myself, was impressed with the performance of the dual system. I didn't think it could work, yet as you see it managed to put good light on tire while having good throw. With that throw, it felt a little brighter than the Yinding. The rings look worse in the pictures than they do in person and are more noticeable when only using one emmiter.


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## -Archie- (Aug 25, 2013)

andychrist said:


> Well the thing is with the Nitenumen, there are two beams with different angles and ranges. Closest other lamps I can think of are
> 
> http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023304 and
> 
> ZhiShunjia ZSJ-B2 1800lm Neutral White 2-LED 4-mode High / Low Beam Bike Headlamp - Golden - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


It's a good news that such lights are started to appear. Till now, I haven't seen proper combination of beam width, power and aiming difference in single package. But it seems, this Nitenumen is closer to the "proper scheme" than others...


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## andychrist (Aug 25, 2011)

ledoman said:


> HD-016 from any vendor (KD in this case) has reflectors not TIR lenses. See my review. The other from DX maybe can use same size TIR optics as Yinding and KD2...
> I misslooked Nitenumen's reflectors are aimed to the different horizontal levels. It is not so obvious from the pictures. Taking this into account two TIR lenses would spread the light even more evenly on all distances and shurely without ugly halos. And you could experimet with different lens angles to make it most suitable. Maybe 10+25deg combo.
> Again if you could make it TIR lenses to fit.


D'oh! Dunno why I thought the KD was using optics. Maybe cause it looks so much like KD2. See the reflectors have different depths, that's what give the two ranges.

Yeah the Nitenumen has a funny way of angling the reflector. But I wasn't meaning to suggest user modification to TIR, rather thinking what if the manufacturer had done it that way to begin with. Know it is not always possible to make such substitutions because problem of getting the lens you want in the proper fit, like you say.


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

At first I was thinking HD-016 has TIR lenses, too. I've started reviewing it that way, but realized the truth when dissasembing it.

GJHS might tell us what are measurments of the reflectors and any chanches 20mm TIR lenses would fit in one of the holes.

On the other hand if you are using two different angles TIR lenses in Yinding or similar you won't need beams aimed to the different levels as the beam is evenly spreaded. I'm using 10+25 deg lenses in 880 clone which makes it nice bar light.


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## MK96 (Nov 5, 2012)

Seems this comes with a 20mm and a 14mm MCPCB, it is just the depth of reflectors that matters. Anyway it has a nice beam pattern so changing for TIR may be useless.


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## camteru (Feb 12, 2015)

i´m curious about the battery life
how many time it last in high, middle and low mode? 

i just ordered the little bro of this flashlight, the BC-A1, and i´m very curious about the 8 hr in high mode...

Nitenumen Technology Co.,ltd.


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## slcpunk (Feb 4, 2004)

too bad there isn't a way to move both emmitters through their modes _in unison_.

Seems cumbersome to have to click both buttons to change intesity. ( From all low to all high, that's 6 total presses, right? )

Am I reading the info right on that?


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## Mountainking7 (Nov 8, 2014)

Wow. Thanks for this review mate! Is it regulated? Will there be a neutral white version? I got so excited I forgot my MAIN QUESTION...

:facepalm:

How does it compare to the yinding? Which would you choose?


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Not sure about a neutral version. I would say, if you only plan on running one light and want a little more throw, the Nitenumen is a good choice.


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## Appel (Dec 10, 2014)

Feels like this thread is fading away. It is a pity. It would be nice if this light came in a neutral white version.


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

Maybe we'll hear from GJHS with a long-term report in a while.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

So what do you guys think of this as a single light for night riding? I just want one light on my helmet and not have to worry about bars. I was considering this or the

yinding

Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-40.82 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

NEVER use just one light if you are serious MTB night rider! At least use backup light on the bars. You never know what would go wrong. Of course it is all up to you.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I always kept a backup in my back but just used my magicshine in my helmet. All of our night rides I have only ever seen anyone use just a single helmet light. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Backup in your pocket is useless at the moment when primary light fails and you are in the middle of fast descend. I said, it's up to you. I don't take any chance not having two lights turned on on descends, at least.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

kikoraa said:


> So what do you guys think of this as a single light for night riding? I just want one light on my helmet and not have to worry about bars. I was considering this or the
> 
> yinding
> 
> Yinding 900Lm CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4 Modes Headlight Lamp Set ( 4 x 18650 Battery Neutral White US Plug )-40.82 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com


I ordered the yinding (maybe not this exact model). I only got to use the light a couple times this season. I thought the light was bright enough, and was impressed for what I got for the cost for sure. I did not get the correct US plug, which was a hassle, and never resolved properly by bestgear. But I bought an adapter from amazon, and its seems to work. I think this is a good light. It is bright enough, though you could probably still outrun it if you go fast enough. I never tested how long the battery was really good for. But it was a minimal investment for me, and I think it was worth it. Good luck. I'm not 100% in agreement with ledoman, but I might be in 75% agreement. If the lights are so cheap, why not get 2? Then again, I don't know your financial situation either. Good luck to you and happy night riding!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I have 2 of the old knock off magicshines. One has a wide angle lens in it. I used to run 2 lights but just felt more comfortable using the one on my helmet. Never had issues with cutoff. Good to hear the yin ding was a solid performer. Both seem like great lights and I will eventually own both. But I can only really buy one right now. I may dust off the wide angle Chinese light and use that as a bar light and give that setup another try to pair with one of these lights. Just juggling which to buy first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

Is this 1100 Lm both LED's on high?


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## Densen (Jun 30, 2015)

I checked reviews here of most common cheap bike lights and this one I like most.
Did anyone tried to order this Nitenumen BC-A2 from gearbest with special condition to split package in 2 delivery packages: one with light and accesories and another one with rechargeable batts.???
i ask cause any equipment contained Li batts pass through custom to much time, ~ 1 month and plus time required to make and start deliver shipment ( I found much negative responses about gearbest)


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

Densen - getting lights through customs must be a crapshoot - I received my Nightfighter from GB last week, total time from order to delivery about 10 days through DHL, with a $2 or $3 expedited charge, to MN. Another member, EBroughton, is having trouble with GB. We ordered almost the same day, I don't think he expedited.


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## Densen (Jun 30, 2015)

RoadTire, of course delivery trhough custom depends on many things.
In my situation light should delivered to me to Russia, at least I know in past and currently when any stuff ordered and may contain Li batts as coopnent or accessory, it ay seriously delay the delivery from1 week to 1 month and some peoples try to split orders to get accums. separately when possible

Thats why I ask if anybody have success with GEARBEST mag to split delivery for BC-A2

It seems nobody bothered himself with such thing.

I will try contact gearbest directly but their communications are to slow and live chat especially.


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## Khrystyan27 (Jul 3, 2011)

WOW! I'm very impressed! 

This one or the Solarstorm XT40?


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## Densen (Jun 30, 2015)

Eh, today I got reply from gearbest, when you make an order you MAY mask about package split to deliver accums separately, but no guarantee that factory's stock will do itin this way, so only hope..

Khrystyan27, 

pay maximum attention to this model as it really looks like more appropriate in city usage than other models reviewed here when it placed on bike bars. And in same time out of general roads\city with peoples it sill rocks in wood  .

Well the only minus of this model for me is the cold light


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## RoadTire (Jan 6, 2014)

Densen said:


> Well the only minus of this model for me is the cold light


Agreed, the cooler tint was what tipped me away from this particular light.


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## Primorsky (Jul 9, 2015)

Hello all.
I have a questions for BC-A2 owners.

Does it have batteries discharge indication?
Does it have automatic protection against critical discharge of batteries?
Does it have automatic protection against overheating of the LEDs?


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## Joy4ride (Jul 12, 2015)

Hi guys,
I am interested about this light. I would like to know what it does that wired remote. It has the same functions like the two buttons on the light? Can you press that buttons on the remote to make some flashes, like the remote on Fenix BC-30 do?
Thanks.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Joy4ride said:


> Hi guys,
> I am interested about this light. I would like to know what it does that wired remote. It has the same functions like the two buttons on the light? Can you press that buttons on the remote to make some flashes, like the remote on Fenix BC-30 do?
> Thanks.


the wired remote is identical function to the buttons on the light

----------------------------------
the big LED, 
aims forward. one press on high, one press on low, one press off.
double press to blink this one

the little led, aims downward. 
HOLD to turn on, press to cycle high/med/low, hold to turn off. 
double press to blink this one


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

Does it have batteries discharge indication - yes

Does it have automatic protection against critical discharge of batteries? - yes

Does it have automatic protection against overheating of the LEDs? - don't know it gets red hot though and the open fin side it hotter than the other side


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

update

I have run this light on full last night for 2 hours on fresh battery pack. it was 80 degrees out and I was on fatbike averaging 5-6 mph, so barely any breeze

the thing gets red hot and the open fin area is hotter than the other side, so anyone wondering 'does it sink heat' oh frig yes it does.

light went to 'one batt indicator led' mode (showing low batt) and ran 1 full hour on one batt indicator, then cut off suddenly. pack was at 6.7 volts when I got home after it cutoff. I was going to get the infrared thermometer on it but it cut off 2 miles from home, so next time when I arrive home and it is still on full I will get temp reading from both sides.

I am using the 'united palight' version of this, it's the same light


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

update

surface temps on this thing on full high
---------------------------------------------
sitting still 75 deg outside, no airflow

in F

148 degrees solid side, 145 degrees center, 143 degrees finned side

riding a bit and some airflow

145 degrees solid side, 143 center, 138 degrees finned side

I have not done fast riding and checked temps. but 148 seems to be max


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Wow! Thats awfully hot isn't it?

-Garry


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

I guess it is hot. you touch it, you want to not touch it pretty quick

common solder melts at 183 deg so light should stay in one piece
unless the insulation on the internal wires is melting

it runs though. will keep using this until it croaks


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

I see that on my custom modded HD-016, the thermal protection kicks in at 166 degrees. (I'd have to dig deeper to see if that's case temp or actual temp at the sensor. For some reason 135 degrees sticks in my head. 

-Garry


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## GJHS (Jul 10, 2013)

Just for clarification, the United Paghlight version isn't the same internals and build quality as the Nitenumen. Nitenumen has a better quality http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...tch-4x18650-8-volt-i-am-gonna-try-923477.html

I haven't had heat issues with mine. Jokaankit to do another review, GB sent me two so I'm passing it on to him to test.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

just check how hot the Nitenumen gets after 20 minutes at a dead stop both lights on full. 

I ain't complaining as long as it doesn't actually ignite my CF bars

my internals looks near identical to the Nitenumen BTW...except the wires were overheated during assembly and I had to insulate one of them....

it the same anodized aluminum body, heat has to go somewhere. please get an infrared thermometer (or flir) and post up the surface temp of the solid side, top middle, and fin side. Mine gets hot as i posted. is that bad ? 

I dunno ..

it is still below CREE specs mine runs ~67C which is acceptable


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

yinding on full for 1 hour riding, temp is 105 degrees
this thing 145

wow


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Their temps have nothing to do with how long you ride. Its air flow and outside temp. Temps if 105F on a yinding on high means you were going fast and it was cool out just prior to you taking a temp reading.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Their temps have nothing to do with how long you ride. Its air flow and outside temp. Temps if 105F on a yinding on high means you were going fast and it was cool out just prior to you taking a temp reading.


I was leaning bike against a wall while I was taking a shower

I came back in 20 minutes a took temp with infrared thermometer

for BOTH lights, 73 degrees out, yinding 105 I triple checked
thing runs cool. less lumens makes sense it runs cooler


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Actually that's not the case, yinding without air flow trips the thermal step down in under 5 minutes, that's why it was cooler, it was only in medium mode due to thermal protection.


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## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> Actually that's not the case, yinding without air flow trips the thermal step down in under 5 minutes, that's why it was cooler, it was only in medium mode due to thermal protection.


oh yeah totally forgot about that. when I first got the yinding I noticed it stepped down soon after i stopped on the trail to adjust my skirt

the unitedPAlight version of the nitenumen must not have a step down, it gets blazing hot


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It may or may not, the yinding will get blazing hot but only briefly as it heats up very quickly then steps down. Bigger lights take alot more to go into thermal step down, so I wouldn't worry about it either way.


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