# Clyde's and tire pressure



## Klurejr (Oct 13, 2006)

In a discussion in the General forum a number of guys were shocked to learn about where I run my tire pressure, turns out all those guys were below 180lbs and could run 20psi or lower without rolling the tire.

I clock in at about 230lbs and the lightest I have ever been in the last 2 decades is 195. 

I currently run between 35-40psi in my tubeless setup and find I still "squish" the tire a little bit and have excellent grip. We have really hard packed dirt in San Diego or Sand, and on the hardpack there is little rolling resistance when I climb and plenty of sidewall grip when I run downhill.

Anything under 35lbs and I can feel the rim moving around on the tire when I corner, it feels sloppy.

What pressure do you run and what is your weight?


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

I believe I was one of those people you're talking about in the other thread.
I mentioned my weight in that thread (I'm not under 180 lbs) but I'll mention it again here.
I typically weigh between 183 and 185 -- try to weigh myself every morning.
Aiming to get down to 180 lbs average weight (daily fluctuations happen.)

29x2.6 tires:
19 F
21 R

29x3 tires:
13 F
16 R

=sParty


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## ttengineer (Jun 7, 2012)

When I was at 260 I ran around 38psi on a 2.5x29 with Cush core. That’s on loose over hard pack south east dirt. 

Now down to 219 I find that I can run more like 30psi. 

But yea, it’s pretty obvious that bigger riders require more PSI, at least to me. 


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## Threesticks (Jan 18, 2004)

I'm at about 205 ready to ride and on my HT with DHF 2.5 and Recon 2.4 I run 24/26. It feels nice and stable, but noticed that my rear alum rim has several dents. I only have about 10 rides on it.
Any more pressure than that and the bikes gets skittery and unstable thru rocks.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Yeah but not _*that *_much higher. Depends on the tire too, 40 in a 2.4-2.5" mtb trail tire is crazy high imo. Josh Patterson (silca) optimizes psi for competitive results and would let a lot of air out of most of your tires.


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## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

I think a key thing will be what tire casing you’re using. But then other things like bike/wheel flex, how fast you’re going and how sensitive people are to it will also affect things.

I'm only "clyde adjacent", and not a true clyde (about about 185-195lbs, ~200lbs with gear). But with something like an EXO casing I need at least 5-10 psi more than something with a thicker casing.

Currently I'm looking at:

17-22psi up front (29x2.4 Continental Kryptotal Fr DH casing. 30mm internal rim)
24-35psi out back (29x2.4 Continental Trail casing, which is vaguely EXO+, plus a tannus tubeless insert, 30mm internal rim)

The rear tire pressure I definitely jack up when I hit a bike park. But 24-26psi is much more normal in the rear. And in the winter time it can go lower as the wet roots get "ping pongy" at higher pressures.

Interestingly, my WAO Carbon wheels (Unions), say 40psi is their max pressure limit.

I also have a buddy who is ~220-230lbs riding weight, and he runs ~22-25psi in an EXO casing, and tells me he's never noticed tire squirm. Then again, he's never damaged a rear rim like I have. So he's either slower, or not sensitive to it, or something.


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## #mtnbykr (Jun 6, 2014)

I'm 205 nekkid. + pack, etc. 

Hunt carbon rims, Specialized Eliminator 29 x 2.6
15f 20r
Phx area rocks and/or kitty litter.


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## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

I'm about 230 lbs and on rowdy terrain I roll on about 30-35psi at the back and 25-30ish at the front. 27.5 wheels and 2.3-ish tires.


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## stingray5 (Sep 8, 2020)

105kg here, I run Continetal Argotal 2.6x29" enduro/soft front at 1.6 bar and Argotal 2.4x29" downhil/soft (with Tannus insert) at 1.7 bar.
I never flat no matter what I ride, very stable and firm feeling. I am of opinion that proper enduro/DH casing is a must for heavier guys for more aggressive riding.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

about 220 riding. It's going to depend... a lot. So here's the stuff currently on my bikes. 

Trail bike is running 30.5mm internal width rims
Schwalbe 2.35 super trail Rock Razor rear: 25 psi 30.5mm internal width 
Schwalbe 2.4 super trail Nobby Nic front: 23 psi

Enduro is also running 30.5mm internal width rims
EXO+ 2.4 DHRII rear: 30 psi 
EXO+ 2.5 Assegai front: 25 psi

I could go lower on 35mm internal width rims, but I just didn't like the squareness of the tires.


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## Swolie74 (11 mo ago)

260 buck nekkid, I run 35 up front and 35-40 rear most of the time. 40 on my Forekasters, Rekon's feels drastically different than 40 on Vitorria Martello's... With the martello's I could probably get away with lower but I haven't bothered to toy with it. I ran them at 25 initially and almost immediately had a significant rim impact on brand new rims. After that I put it up higher and have kept it there. 

No tire inserts btw...


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## MTB_Underdog (Jul 8, 2020)

245#, when riding locally I run 30r/27f. If I'm heading to the mountains with more rocks or bigger jumps I'll bump the rear 35 and the front to 30. Any lower I start pinging the rim or burping the tire.


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## LVLBTY (Jul 15, 2020)

Can't believe you clydes run such high pressures. I'm 215 - 220, EXO+ casings. 18F - 21R. 35mm rims.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

LVLBTY said:


> Can't believe you clydes run such high pressures. I'm 215 - 220, EXO+ casings. 18F - 21R. 35mm rims.


If I go that low, I burp tires.


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## Ogre (Feb 17, 2005)

Somewhere around 210-220 and I usually run between 25-30 up front and 28-35 in the back.

It’s a rough measure because I set it with the pump and if it feels right when I mount up often I don’t even check for specific pressure.

Edit: Most of my bikes have 30-35mm ID rims and I run 2.4” tires except for my mullet build which is 2.6” and I’m not quite sure where I’ll land on pressure for that bike.


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

93kg (over 200lb).
Tyre pressure depends massively on the tyre. 

I generally run 2.4.

Front 
15 on a mid weight casing doesn't flex, but will hit the rim occasionally. 
Light casing tyre normally 18-21 psi with inserts of the tyre isn't supported. 

Rear is normally 25-28 whatever tyre. 

Inserts help a lot with tyre roll, but the other key thing is leaning the bike far enough when cornering. 

It might be worth trying lower pressures with more lean to see if you like it..... I did.


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## MTBGV (Jul 13, 2018)

I’m 225 geared up. Vittoria Mazza Enduro 29x2.6 casing up front at 25 psi, Maxxis Aggressor Exo 29x2.5 rear at 27 psi. 35 mm id rims. I’m in Colorado so dry, loose over hard, and kitty litter. I haven’t had problems with burping or rim dents.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Rim width has a big impact on what tire pressure works. Skinnier rims need more pressure.
High volume with a rounded tread design can use a wider rim and lower pressure up until your terrain and speed limit you with rim hits.


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## AEyogi (Nov 19, 2021)

About 215. 29" by 30 MM rims. When I am riding in fast terrain with sharp rocks, I run 26f/28r and when I need more grip in loose slower terrain I run 23f/24r. No inserts yet, but am thinking about it; my rims are not looking so good.


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## jannmayer (10 mo ago)

I'm about 205 lb without gear. I use about 23 psi in the front and 25 psi in the rear on 29" x 2.6" Specialized FastTrack tires on my hardtail. I'm also in San Diego and almost exclusively ride on hardpack with lots of rocks. I don't ride all that aggressively, but I don't have issues with rim strikes, flats, or burping tires. (29 mm inside width rims)

I'm still experimenting on my gravel bike but it looks like 30 psi front and 35 psi rear is good with 29" x 2" tires.

No inserts on either bike.


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## singletrackmack (Oct 18, 2012)

Klurejr said:


> I currently run between 35-40psi…
> 
> Anything under 35lbs…
> 
> What pressure do you run and what is your weight?


I am about about 6’4 and 225lbs and run my psi anywhere from 40psi down to around 2psi.

What size wheel, how wide of tires and how wide are the rims that are you specifically asking about PSI for?


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## Mr Smith PDX (Oct 9, 2011)

Like @eb1888 said: skinnier rims would be more likely to lead to squirmy tires at low pressure, no?

OP, what are your rim and tire widths? Maybe it is skinny rims that are the issue.


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## Rodmunch (Feb 24, 2008)

275lbs here. I've settled on 30psi F and 35psi R on all my bikes. I should try changing it up a bit but that's been a good compromise between grip, burping, rim strikes, etc.
Bike 1: FS, 30.5mm rims, 29in tires, 2.5in F Assegai EXO and 2.4in R DHR EXO
Bike 2: FS, 30mm rims, 27.5in tires, 2.5in F DHF EXO and 2.4in R DHR EXO
Bike 3: Hardtail, 25mm rims, 29in tires, 2.5in F High Roller EXO and 2.25in R Rekon EXO


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## Bikeworks (Sep 10, 2020)

dysfunction said:


> about 220 riding. It's going to depend... a lot. So here's the stuff currently on my bikes.
> 
> Trail bike is running 30.5mm internal width rims
> Schwalbe 2.35 super trail Rock Razor rear: 25 psi 30.5mm internal width
> ...


I'm about 10 or so pounds heavier, run Nobby Nics front and back. I'd say I'm 28 out back, 26 in the front, northeast terrain


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## trmn8er (Jun 9, 2011)

I’m unsure why there seems to be so much disparity but I weigh 215 and 6’2 and with 2.35 tires on both trail and XC HT bikes I only need 21 front and about 25 rear. Both 30mm ID Carbon wheel-sets. I cannot imagine running as much pressure as some are mentioning but whatever works for you! 


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

trmn8er said:


> I’m unsure why there seems to be so much disparity


Terrain and how aggressive someone rides. When I weighed 215 lbs I generally ran 30 psi (rear) in a 2.4 tire. After losing over 20 lbs I run 29 psi. Not much difference.

Kinetic energy is 1/2 * mass * velocity^2. So speed is much more important than mass in determining how much kinetic energy the bike has.


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## OttaCee (Jul 24, 2013)

Hmmm...am I playing with fire? 6'2" 260lb, running 24psi front/26psi rear on 30mm inner wheels on 2.6 tires. When I get on my 2.35 race tires, up the pressure to 26psi front/28psi rear.


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

New England rider here with loads of rocks, roots, drops to flat and all around awkward tech, groomed trails aren’t a thing here. 2.4 DH casing 30mm inner width rims 205lbs and 25/28/30psi in the rear depending on easy trails, fast enduro type riding or a day at the bike park.

2.4 trail casing (1050g tire weight) same rims 26/29 for easy trails or fast stuff. Won’t use those at the bike park, made that mistake once with 1200g double down casing.

Front tire is 2-3psi lower, 2.5 DH and 2.4 trail.


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## Tmiabm (Mar 20, 2021)

I weigh 250 and run dd maxxis 29x2.5 f 29x2.4 r at 23f 29r


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

205 pounds, rim width makes a difference:

Hardtail 35mm internal width, true 2.6, Exo casings, 17f/19 rear

Trail Bike (includes tahoe rocks) 30mm internal, 2.5 front,2.35 rear, enduro casing rear, 22f/24r

DH bike at Northstar, 35mm internal width, Schwalbe 2.6f/2.4r, super gravity casings, 24F/26R, ridden all at Northstar.


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## dsciulli19 (Apr 14, 2014)

195lbs + gear here. Hardtail with 2.6 Bontrager SE5 up front and a Maxxis Aggressor DD 2.5 in the back, both with cushcore. I run about 25psi F / 28psi R.


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## Nick_p_mn (3 mo ago)

260+gear, Hardtail, Midwest hard pack with as many tech features and jumps as I can find.

I run 29x2.35-2.4 f/r 30mm I.d. Wheels

35 +\- front on 2.4 Dissector Exo. Night and day level of rolling resistance when aired up. Used to run f/r at 24psiF/28r and only burped occasionally, but handling got crisper and rolling resistance went way down when aired up. Almost like the side knobs were never off the ground at low pressure and I was pedaling through sand. This made climbs and getting speed for jumps tough. Ran CC f/r at first. Got rid of front CC, never tried the dissector rear without as I switched to hunting for a faster rolling rear once it wore out. I also lost A LOT of spokes running 26-28psi rear pressures. Admittedly **** wheels and newbie riding line choices. 

38+/- rear Spec Ground control Grid 2.3, rode until it died, looking to try the 2.35 t7 this next season. Good rolling resistance when aired up, pretty durable. Ran at 28psi the first couple months, experimented with higher pressures after trying my son’s backup wheel when I broke mine. It was a super skinny ikon, with tubes, and I jacked up the psi accordingly and found just how much faster the bike was. This led to pressure experiments where it felt like I gained another gear or two, and dropped 30lbs of body weight. Haven’t noticed a grip loss outside of blown out/sandy steep climbs, but lowering the pressures didn’t help in those conditions on my hard tail anyway. 

31-33front; 36+/- rear Spec GC grid 2.6 -backup tire, not a fan of 2.6, they can handle lower pressures, but I don’t like the floaty-rolling feel of low pressure/high volume. Feels vague and off camber landings lead to burps and pain. Also my experience with Rekon 2.6 in the front.

36+/- Aggressor 2.3 DoubleDown, sold this tire, overkill for Mn trails, horrible to climb with, had a feeling of constantly needing to pedal despite higher pressures lowering rolling resistance. Went as high as 40 to try to negate this. Went as low as 26 to see the effect on rolling resistance.


I reference the included charts occasionally, maybe it’ll help someone else as well

View attachment 2006544


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## UPSed (Dec 26, 2010)

210~ and run 16psi front and 20psi rear. EXO casing 2.4s on 30mm.


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## _CJ (May 1, 2014)

Wheel design, and how it interfaces with the tire can play a big role in what tire pressure is needed to get the feel you want.

Generally in my experience, the bigger the wheel, the wider the rim, and the bigger the tire, the lower the pressure.

"Back in the day", I used to run 55 psi on my rear tire, which was a 1.9 mounted on a 26" rim that was 19mm wide.....and I was about 40 pounds lighter than I am now. These days, with a 2.25 on a 27.5 x 29mm rim, the pressure is about 30 psi. And on my 27.5 x 35mm rim with 2.8's, it's 25 psi.

At the end of the day, just use what works for you. The whole "I run super low pressures" thing seems to be kind of a dick measuring contest with a lot of people.


.


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## bowtie76 (Sep 10, 2019)

240 riding weight here
2.5 DHF front at 24-26
2.4 DHR rear at 27-28
30mm inner rim EXO+

Mostly mid Atlantic (Blueridge) roots and rocks but I don't consider myself easy on the bike.


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## socal_jack (Dec 30, 2008)

230ish suited up, ride same San Diego area trails as OP on a vaiety of tires 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, rims i29, i32, i40 tubeless. Generally need a minimum of 25# rear not to squirm normally run 30# or so rear, fronts can be low 20s normally 22-25# any or no suspension either end.


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## paul c (Nov 22, 2009)

245 in my birthday suite, I run 28-30 psi out back with a 2.5 or 2.4 Maxxis double down casing on my 27.5 bikes with 30mm rims. Up front an EXO with about 25 psi. I’ve tried expo’s out back and around 26 psi and up here in New England with our rocks I’ve bottomed the rim onto a rock therefore cutting the tire at the bead and usually denting the rim. Tried a Cushcore with similar results. Switched to the DD casing, haven’t had an issue since.


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## AEyogi (Nov 19, 2021)

We need a chart showing the weight/pressure distribution!


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

AEyogi said:


> We need a chart showing the weight/pressure distribution!


Not enough information. Pressure is dependent on more than just weight.


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## Rafu (Oct 25, 2013)

I am 98 kg / 216 lbs (plus some gear):

Front: 2.3" Specialized Butcher - 1.9 -2.0 bar / 28-29 psi
Rear: 2.3" Specialized Eliminator - 2.1-2.2 bar / 31-32 psi

Both tires are set tubeless.


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## CLDSDL43 (Sep 15, 2021)

265 lb/6'-7".
Maxxis Ardent 2.4.
22 +/- frt
20-22 rear.


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## shwndh (Nov 20, 2004)

I found that there are many variables and tire pressure is different for me depending on what I’m riding. I’m about 220lbs riding a FS 29er, XR4 2.4 tires, 30mm wide rims, and I’m usually 20/26 f/r. I believe with a Maxxis DHR in the rear, same size, tire pressure would be 23 or 24psi.

On my 27.5 wheeled bike my rims were 26mm wide and I ran 2.3 Maxxis Highroller in the rear with 29 psi.

These pressures were the lowest I could run my pressure in the rear without tire squirm in the corners and smacking rims. Seems the wider the rim and higher the air volume, the lower I could go with pressure. I don’t run cushcores


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## Klurejr (Oct 13, 2006)

Thanks for all the replies. My front rim is pretty narrow, was the one that came on the bike, Helix TR 25?









I replaced the rear with a Spank 359:









Both are running Versus 27.5 x 2.4 and I run 35-40 psi in both:









Even before I had these amazing tires I ran high pressure, but I did notice the grip got even better when I stepped up to these.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Maybe you're just more sensitive to squirm than I am. There is also always that. I have a friend that I used to ride with until he moved. Pretty much the same size, similar wheel sets, even similar riding styles, and he'd ride a higher PSI that I would. We'd swap bikes and he'd complain about squirm.


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## Klurejr (Oct 13, 2006)

dysfunction said:


> Maybe you're just more sensitive to squirm than I am. There is also always that. I have a friend that I used to ride with until he moved. Pretty much the same size, similar wheel sets, even similar riding styles, and he'd ride a higher PSI that I would. We'd swap bikes and he'd complain about squirm.


I think I am for sure. anything lower than 35 feels like the tires are all over the place and messes with me. Years of planting the rear tire on my dirt bike and spinning it up, being comfortable with getting loose on occasion, etc gives me a ton of confidence to run the higher pressures.


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## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

Well, you’re running 27.5’s, which do require more air pressure than the 29’ers that most people in the thread are reporting.

Also, the versus trail casing tires are on the lighter and thinner side, which also means more pressure.

My Brother in law had a set of versus trail tires, and ran mid 20’s psi on them on his sentinel (29’er). Even as a rider of less than one year experience and 30-50lbs lighter than you he punctured them about 5 times before tossing them. In comparison he had one flat on the EXO+ tires that came on his bike, and zero on the continental enduro casing tires he has now (which have done a few park days, and the whole enchilada). So it seems the versus trail casing is thinner than both of those. 

If I had to guess, you’re high psi is due in large part to the smaller tire and thinner casing. Not that there is anything wrong with that.


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## Bbb34 (2 mo ago)

6'7" - 265 lbs. rider on full suspension bike 27.5+ (2.8).

Sweet spot for flowy faster single tracks seems to be at 21-22 back and 19-20 front, for a bit more technical terrain 20-21 and 19 seem to work the best.
Could probably go a bit lower, but seems I prefer a bit "firmer" feel going into the corners.

No drops, jumps or super technical trails though.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

6'6" 220lbs, 16psi front (DHF 29x2.5) / 26psi rear (Dissector 29x2.4)


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## noosa2 (May 20, 2004)

LVLBTY said:


> Can't believe you clydes run such high pressures. I'm 215 - 220, EXO+ casings. 18F - 21R. 35mm rims.


Pretty much the same for me. I’m 215-220 geared up and run 15F (29x3.0 tire) and 22R (29X2.6 tire).


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

Bbb34 said:


> 6'7" - 265 lbs. rider on full suspension bike 27.5+ (2.8).
> 
> Sweet spot for flowy faster single tracks seems to be at 21-22 back and 19-20 front, for a bit more technical terrain 20-21 and 19 seem to work the best.
> Could probably go a bit lower, but seems I prefer a bit "firmer" feel going into the corners.
> ...


It's kinda crazy how pressures really seem to vary among riders.

Watching BKXC's latest videos, I commented on him running 25psi. I've always wondered why his videos sound like his tires are really hard; sound like they're over-inflated bouncing over everything. So he mentioned his pressures and I commented. I assume he's in the 160 lb. weight range, so knowing he's running 29" 2.5" Assegai tires on his Ibis wheels, I said he's running really high pressures.

I'm running 29" 2.4" tires on my Ibis 35mm wheels at 18 F and 20 R and I weigh 210 lbs. This has really been the sweet spot for me for the whole time. I have yet to burp or roll a tire and they never feel squishy while riding. Riding includes Soquel Demo, Donner Pass, St. George, Nevada City, local redwood & sandstone single track. Keep my suspension at 20% sag with light compression damping. Not THAT fast on the descents, and pretty gentle with my stuff. At 57, keeping the crashing to the about the minimum. But I'm no slouch and enjoy getting some air & technically challenging terrain. Have yet to dent or contact a rim in 1.5 years on this bike. Wheels haven't needed a truing (I did even out their tensions & trued 'em up when new though). I've suffered three or four tread flats in that time, all repaired. No sidewall issues or problems.

He replied and said he'd dent the crap out of his wheels at my pressures. He's definitely upped his game with technical riding and he rides a ton of miles, so he definitely puts his wheels through a LOT. So that's part of it. But he's FIFTY POUNDS lighter than me and running pressures considerably higher. I just don't get it. Practically the same bikes, wheels & tires, so it just doesn't make sense. EDIT: He's riding a Ripmo with longer suspension travel than my RIpley, which would accommodate lower pressures also. Puzzling.

Oh and I think I'm pretty cognizant of varying tire pressure requirements over the many years on various bikes. Riding various bikes & tires from the road tandems at 120psi, to the unicycle at around 35 (tubes), and the road bike on clinchers and tubulars, the mountain tandem, and now the trail FS bike with tubeless. I have an accurate hand-held dial gauge to be sure I'm comparing apples to apples. Definitely HATE riding soft tires when you can feel the squish and side squirm.

So it's pretty eye-opening to hear the wide range of pressure variation here. Thanks for sharing.


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## _CJ (May 1, 2014)

Something I think need to be mentioned here is the HUGE range in the quality of pressure gauges, and their accuracy. 20 psi on one might be 25 on another, and 15 on the next.

What's important is that you use the same gauge on all your bikes, and figure out what works for you. If you have multiple gauges, try checking pressures with all of them on the same tire. The results might surprise you.


.


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## ttengineer (Jun 7, 2012)

_CJ said:


> Something I think need to be mentioned here is the HUGE range in the quality of pressure gauges, and their accuracy. 20 psi on one might be 25 on another, and 15 on the next.
> 
> What's important is that you use the same gauge on all your bikes, and figure out what works for you. If you have multiple gauges, try checking pressures with all of them on the same tire. The results might surprise you.
> 
> ...


Very fair point. 

I know even my 2 floor pumps are off from each other. 

The digital gauges seem to be more consistent. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

TandemBear said:


> EDIT: He's riding a Ripmo with longer suspension travel than my RIpley, which would accommodate lower pressures also. Puzzling.


I run higher tire pressures on longer travel bikes.


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## Biohazard74 (Jul 16, 2009)

Here's a very important question for everyone. How are you checking your tire pressures? Don't trust the guages that come on the pumps. Get the accu guage if you can. I learned the hard way.

Edit: just read the whole thread after I posted this and saw someone brought this issue up .


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Biohazard74 said:


> Here's a very important question for everyone. How are you checking your tire pressures? Don't teustbthe guages that come on the pumps. Get the accu guage if you can. I learned the hard way.


Doesn't matter.

Just always use the same gauge. Consistency is more important.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Biohazard74 said:


> Here's a very important question for everyone. How are you checking your tire pressures? Don't trust the guages that come on the pumps. Get the accu guage if you can. I learned the hard way.
> 
> Edit: just read the whole thread after I posted this and saw someone brought this issue up .


Accuguage.


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

Biohazard74 said:


> Here's a very important question for everyone. How are you checking your tire pressures? Don't trust the guages that come on the pumps. Get the accu guage if you can. I learned the hard way.
> 
> Edit: just read the whole thread after I posted this and saw someone brought this issue up .


Quality dial gauge rated to 60psi, so just what I need for tubeless tires in the 10-40 psi range, but can't remember the brand. Yes, one can argue that a tire pressure gauge is like a spoke tension meter - doesn't matter if it's perfectly calibrated (accurate to the .1 kgf or .1 psi, but important that it's consistent and measures the same way every time. For use among many bikes/tires and moving pressures up or down 2, 3, 5, 10 psi, this is indeed what's important.

But when you're discussing 25psi with others on the interwebs, then a gauge's accuracy (or calibration) IS important. That way it's an "apples to apples" comparison.

Dang, last night a friend came over for some wheel work and I forgot to ask him to bring HIS accurate tire gauge so I could see how his and mine compare. Shoot! Next time.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

TandemBear said:


> But when you're discussing 25psi with others on the interwebs, then a gauge's accuracy (or calibration) IS important. That way it's an "apples to apples" comparison.


I wouldn't assume any comparative accuracy. Even between the same gauges.

I do have an accugauge, but I wouldn't bet it's the same as anyone else's.


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## Kelly Parker (Mar 15, 2017)

LVLBTY said:


> Can't believe you clydes run such high pressures. I'm 215 - 220, EXO+ casings. 18F - 21R. 35mm rims.


220 + gear. 30mm wheels with minion 21psi f rekon r 22psi. No jump parks for me. Could go lower if I slow it down. Would have to add 4 or 5 psi if I did a lot of big air. No rim damage or tire squirm as long as I am over 21 psi. Just Ride.


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## Bassmantweed (Nov 10, 2019)

Klurejr said:


> In a discussion in the General forum a number of guys were shocked to learn about where I run my tire pressure, turns out all those guys were below 180lbs and could run 20psi or lower without rolling the tire.
> 
> I clock in at about 230lbs and the lightest I have ever been in the last 2 decades is 195.
> 
> ...


this is why i don't run tubeless - i just don't see the need at my weight and tire pressure. i also dont ride in thorny areas and cant recall the last flat i have had. i know this violates modern MTB dogma and i may get my membership card revoked.


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## AEyogi (Nov 19, 2021)

Bassmantweed said:


> this is why i don't run tubeless - i just don't see the need at my weight and tire pressure. i also dont ride in thorny areas and cant recall the last flat i have had. i know this violates modern MTB dogma and i may get my membership card revoked.


What is the protocol here, do we all just put this heretic on ignore, and shun him, or will the mods ban him?


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

Bassmantweed said:


> this is why i don't run tubeless - i just don't see the need at my weight and tire pressure. i also dont ride in thorny areas and cant recall the last flat i have had. i know this violates modern MTB dogma and i may get my membership card revoked.


Why? Because there's debate about tire pressure? 
Seems like a silly reason to not use an advance in tire technology that offers a lot of benefits, the main ones being much better traction, shock absorption, comfort & control.

This argument could just as easily be applied to just about any other feature of the modern mountain bike:
1) I don't need 27.5"/29" wheels; 26" worked for me for 20 years!
2) I don't need full suspension! Or really even front suspension either!
3) Dropper post? Why? Rode FOREVER without one and don't need to start now!
4) "All those gears!" When 15 were enough, why 18? 21? 24? 27? 30????? (Funny how those curmudgeons didn't applaud 1X by saying, "Finally we're back to a 'sensible' number of gears!)
5) 1X! My triple works GREAT, so 1X is dumb!
6) The list goes on...

And trust me, I'm NOT that guy who buys the latest, greatest, newest bike every year. I'm not a retro-grouch, but I AM someone who likes to get everything out of a bike I like. This explains why I rode a '98 26" hard tail for 23 years and only in '21 did I FINALLY make the jump to a modern FS bike. Wow, I waited WAY too long!

However, ONE upgrade I did make on my 26'er was going tubeless. I balked at UST when it was released, but then over time I saw how tubeless had advanced and really did offer several benefits over the previous tire "technology." Tubeless offers so much; the biggest advantage to me is the prevention of snake-bite flats. That alone is the clincher for me (a pun!). But then add all the other benefits, and tubeless is a no-brainer.

So you CAN shun all the new tech, but why? I'll say today's bikes make riding pretty damn amazing. Flow trails are SO KILLER on modern bikes & geometry. Looks like I CAN jump after all! As is the "gnar." Rode Hole in the Ground at Donner Pass last year after about a 5 year hiatus. Didn't put any pressure on myself; at 55 yo I figured I'd walk the gnarlier sections. Nope, despite being crash-averse, I rode everything but about 20 yards of the stair-step drops at the end. (Ironically, my experienced - and older - friend on his 26" bike, despite NOT being an aggro rider, went OTB and hurt his shoulder a little bit.)

Don't knock it 'till you try it!


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

TandemBear said:


> This argument could just as easily be applied to just about any other feature of the modern mountain bike:
> 1) I don't need 27.5"/29" wheels; 26" worked for me for 20 years!
> 2) I don't need full suspension! Or really even front suspension either!
> 3) Dropper post? Why? Rode FOREVER without one and don't need to start now!
> ...


I feel like you've missed the last year around here.


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

dysfunction said:


> I feel like you've missed the last year around here.


You're right, I have. Sorry if I recreated the (29") wheel!!!!


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## Bassmantweed (Nov 10, 2019)

TandemBear said:


> Why? Because there's debate about tire pressure?
> Seems like a silly reason to not use an advance in tire technology that offers a lot of benefits, the main ones being much better traction, shock absorption, comfort & control.
> 
> This argument could just as easily be applied to just about any other feature of the modern mountain bike:
> ...


I have tried it. I went back to tubes. I can’t stand low pressure and tire squirm/rolling. If I liked low pressure I’d run tubeless. 

i dont get flats. I don’t have to air my tires up every ride and I can pretty much ride anything that’s out there in my area.

i think equating tubless to other meaningful advances is a bit of a stretch. I just simply do t see the need or benefit. I’m happy you do


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

OK, update on the pressure discussion...

First of all, I do have an analog AccuGauge. Couldn't remember. I've had it a year and a half and have kept it wrapped in padding to keep it from being damaged.

Second, I compared it to the analog Milton gauge I've been using in the car for over a decade. It has the same pressure range as the AccuGauge: 0-60psi, so it's appropriate for tubeless tire pressure measurement. It has always worked well; Milton gauges are known for quality and accuracy. And it always corresponded to the second analog Milton gauge I used in the other car (until I dropped it!).

Third, I took several pressure measurements to see if there was variation in values for different psi:
18, 25, 30, 35 and 40 psi

The Milton gauge measured 1 psi lower than the AccuGauge across the board.

So given this, I'm pretty confident my much newer AccuGauge is registering pretty accurately and precisely. 

So in other words, when I say I'm running Maxxis Aggressors at 20 psi R and 18 psi F, I'm pretty confident I'm running those pressures within about 1psi of error.

And running longer travel has little impact on tire pressures. Tire contact patch is your contact patch, regardless of suspension travel. Ideal traction is achieved by having the tire (air pressure) absorb small impacts and provide a stable contact patch, conform to, and allow knobby bite into the surface. Your weight (mass) is static. Tire sidewall deflection and rim protection should be BETTER with longer travel suspension, which could justify lower pressures, as peak impact forces will be better attenuated with longer travel suspension. However, I'd expect that I'd run the same pressures with 140 or 160mm travel, all other things being equal. But that's just my opinion, and wrong or right, I'm sticking to it!

And to *Bassmantweed's *reply, I agree. I, too, hate the feel of tire squish. However, I can't say this has been a problem for me. When I went tubeless, I realized an accurate and appropriate gauge was necessary for tubeless pressures. The "thumb method" is NOT the way to go, despite using it myself for years. But I learned that with tubeless, you really need to not guess, but KNOW what pressures work for a given tire, rider weight, style and terrain. It took only a few rides to dial it in to 20 and 18psi for me. Good traction and shock absorption with no squish. My riding includes some jumping, but nothing that involves major air or doubles. I have yet to suffer a burp, blow out or sealant leak. I've had three flats in a year and a half. Actually, probably two, but the first flat, a major stick through the center of my tread on my third ride (on 120 TPI tires), which required a plug, which was a temporary fix. The gash was so large, it needed further repair (someting a shop won't do, due to liability and the convenience of making money on selling a new tire instead!), so I sewed it with dental floss & booted it on both sides. It's survived Sierra granite and St. George sandstone with no issues. NO tire will prevent that sort of flat.

So I say if you're experiencing tire squish, you're running pressures too low or narrower rims than currently ideal for wide tires, and/or low quality tires with crappy sidewalls that impart terrible feel. Or perhaps you have issues with your wheels and/or suspension that is causing side flex & deflection that reveals itself more when running tubeless. I just replied to a post someone made on another forum about disc brake rub he couldn't remedy. Persistent rotor rub can be caused by myriad problems: loose rotor, loose hub bearings, loose freehub body bearings, problematic through axle, and/or dropout problems. So there are many factors that can lead to a "squishy" feel that can be completely independent of your tires. May not be the case with you, but I'd wonder.

But I can understand the complaint about having to air up so frequently. A compressor makes this a non-issue. And short of that, if I didn't have a quality floor pump at the minimum, then it would be a total PIA. That said, however, road riding requires topping off tires weekly, on average, so filling tires is something that many cyclists simply accept. 

And I'm not trying to change your mind, just address many of your complaints. Other riders may benefit from the discussion.

Have a great weekend!


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## Bassmantweed (Nov 10, 2019)

TandemBear said:


> …And to *Bassmantweed's *reply, I agree. I, too, hate the feel of tire squish. However, I can't say this has been a problem for me. When I went tubeless, I realized an accurate and appropriate gauge was necessary for tubeless pressures. The "thumb method" is NOT the way to go, despite using it myself for years. But I learned that with tubeless, you really need to not guess, but KNOW what pressures work for a given tire, rider weight, style and terrain. It took only a few rides to dial it in to 20 and 18psi for me. Good traction and shock absorption with no squish…..
> 
> …..So I say if you're experiencing tire squish, you're running pressures too low or narrower rims than currently ideal for wide tires, and/or low quality tires with crappy sidewalls that impart terrible feel. Or perhaps you have issues with your wheels and/or suspension that is causing side flex & deflection that reveals itself more when running tubeless. I just replied to a post someone made on another forum about disc brake rub he couldn't remedy. Persistent rotor rub can be caused by myriad problems: loose rotor, loose hub bearings, loose freehub body bearings, problematic through axle, and/or dropout problems. So there are many factors that can lead to a "squishy" feel that can be completely independent of your tires. May not be the case with you, but I'd wonder.


thanks for the thoughtful and informative reply.
perhaps I should give it another try.
i will admit that I probably did not give it as much of a chance as I should as I was dealing with many other things getting my new bike setup for me.

my wheels are

Revolution Wheelset - Industry Nine

my tires are:

Minion DHR II - 29 / 2.60WT (3C/EXO/TR) (TB00073100)
Minion DHF - 29 / 2.60WT (EXO/TR) (TB00032800)


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

TandemBear said:


> And running longer travel has little impact on tire pressures. Tire contact patch is your contact patch, regardless of suspension travel. Ideal traction is achieved by having the tire (air pressure) absorb small impacts and provide a stable contact patch, conform to, and allow knobby bite into the surface. Your weight (mass) is static. Tire sidewall deflection and rim protection should be BETTER with longer travel suspension, which could justify lower pressures, as peak impact forces will be better attenuated with longer travel suspension. However, I'd expect that I'd run the same pressures with 140 or 160mm travel, all other things being equal. But that's just my opinion, and wrong or right, I'm sticking to it!


All of this misses why I run higher pressures on my bigger bike.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Bassmantweed said:


> i think equating tubless to other meaningful advances is a bit of a stretch. I just simply do t see the need or benefit.



Oh man I guess that depends on where you live and riding conditions but for me and in the areas I've ridden tubeless ranks up there with the biggest advances in the last 30 years for sure. Total game changer and for me it's not the option for lower pressures (though that can be a nice benefit too) but the stress free no flat rides. So nice.

Tubeless has also pushed tire technology in a good way. IMO.


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## TandemBear (Aug 18, 2013)

dysfunction said:


> All of this misses why I run higher pressures on my bigger bike.


I was going to add at the end of my post that the corollary can apply as well. Longer travel can make up for the lost "suspension" of higher pressure tires. So I think I can appreciate the rebuttal. But still, when I think of pushing a tire to the edge of traction, I just find it hard to believe a harder tire will offer better performance. I realize we all have biases!

PS Per your signature, what is "Wegbier?" Or, more appropriately, "Was ist Wegbier???" Schmeckt's?


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

It's a beer drank on the way someplace. 

Longer travel bike generally means I'm moving faster. Which means harder hits. At that point I'm going higher to avoid pinging rims, as opposed to just squirm. It's not a huge amount, but I take it into consideration.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

There's at least couple reasons someone might run higher pressures on a long travel bike. If they use the bike for a different application than their short travel bike it might make sense. There are trail systems I've never taken my short travel to. Also, a long travel bike should typically have more traction. That can mean higher cornering speeds. The extra grip and confidence the big bike can mean you're riding even the same trails more aggressively. Of course the type of tires you're running can make a difference. 

However, tire pressure for each bike and tire should be determined empirically anyway.


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## socalrider77 (Sep 1, 2012)

I’ll add to this.

245lbs in birthday suit, probably 250lbs-ish all geared up. Local rides are San Diego, lots of rocks and loose over hard. I ride fast and aggressively (usually top 10-20% of Strava times in black/double blacks)

On my 160f/r enduro bike I run Continental DH casings.

F: Kryptotal front 26psi
R: xynotal 32psi

I tried 24psi front and like the ride characteristics of 26psi better. I tried 28 and 30psi in the rear and had too many rim pings, 32psi seems to be doing a lot better. Before the DH casings I was running exo+ equivalents front and rear, 26psi front and 30psi rear with cushcore. I prefer the DH casings at slightly higher pressures


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## Meatfish (Apr 28, 2021)

I'm 250lbs geared up and most of my local trails are very rooty and rocky reds with a lot of jumps to flatish. Typical UK 'natural trail' dh trails in the South West. Riding a 150/130 trail bike I use 20psi front, 25 back on Maxxis Maxterra EXO DHF on the front and Maxxis DC Dissector EXO on the back. I go through rear tires about every 3 months with tire wall spits - they go on sharp rocky drop off landings. Rims are FR560 front and HX531 back (to get 36 spokes), running tubeless. If I go any higher on the tire pressure then I lose too much traction on rooty corners. Will be trying a DHR 2 next week when it arrives as I killed another Dissector last wednesday (split next to the rim so unlikely to be able to sew it).


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## sapva (Feb 20, 2017)

I'm 220 and 35 psi is the absolute minimum in the back without hitting the rims.


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## Tallboy723 (4 mo ago)

30mm with 2.4. Geared up 215 lbs
F=20
R=24
I may bump up 1 psi in the front.
This is my first bike with tubeless tires. It’s awesome. So much grip and the softer tire with lower pressure also improves and adds to the suspension of the bike. Acts as a second shock absorber.
Used to run around 35-38 Psi in my tube tires on my Turner. A lot better ride on tubeless.


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Meatfish said:


> I'm 250lbs geared up and most of my local trails are very rooty and rocky reds with a lot of jumps to flatish. Typical UK 'natural trail' dh trails in the South West. Riding a 150/130 trail bike I use 20psi front, 25 back on Maxxis Maxterra EXO DHF on the front and Maxxis DC Dissector EXO on the back. I go through rear tires about every 3 months with tire wall spits - they go on sharp rocky drop off landings. Rims are FR560 front and HX531 back (to get 36 spokes), running tubeless. If I go any higher on the tire pressure then I lose too much traction on rooty corners. Will be trying a DHR 2 next week when it arrives as I killed another Dissector last wednesday (split next to the rim so unlikely to be able to sew it).


Sounds like you're a good candidate for inserts.


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## jmitchelltfo (5 mo ago)

6'2'' 280 lbs, but riding to reduce that.

I am running a 30mm wheelset with 29x2.2 (endurance casing) Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires. I had a complete debead/burp on my rear tire, during my commute after two weeks of use on that tubeless setup. I threw a tube in and haven't had an issue since. Tire pressure was 35 psi (max of 55) and there was no evidence of a leak/puncture anywhere. The weird thing was, that it happened on a straight, slight climb with no visible damage to the bead or rim.

I don't trust that tire enough to run it tubeless and will probably retire it, even though it has less than 300 miles of use. I'm still scratching my head on why/how that hookless setup failed. The only thing I can think of, is that those tires are just a little on "supple" side for a guy of my size and possibly the sidewall flexed enough to separate/burp the bead when I leaned into the pedals while starting to climb. It definitely had been pounded much harder than that over the last couple weeks, is why I'm confused.

I ordered a set of Schwalbe 29x2.15 Marathons to try since they have a great reputation for high mileage and durability.

Any other big guys commuting and have input?


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## Hrodulf (12 mo ago)

Weird indeed...

However, supple and high (120) tpi front tires don't work for me either. 

I am 'just' 188 lbs (6'3") w/o gear, but 28psi in a 120tpi front tire, does not feels too stable and even some feeling of squirm appears in sharp turns or bermw. Will change the front tire back now to a 60 tpi variant, I know that 60 tpi does not provide that squirmish feeling.


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## Travolta (Oct 26, 2016)

94kg. 1.4bar front. 1.8bar rear. 2.4 tire. sorry I dont do freedom unit.
tire pressure is something very individual. depending on how clean or what you ride you'll get away with a lower pressure than someone else. also the tire is a huge factor. on some tires I can ride with nearly no air in them since the sidewalls are so reinforced.
many clydes I know suffer from a condition I call "size innertia". they sit or stand on their bikes like a piece of wood. near motionless. these are the guys that rim strike often.
the ones that are still showing some sort of agility dont rim strike. even with lower pressure.


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## Can2pir (Nov 27, 2016)

225-230lbs here, (trying to get to 215!) SC Reserve rims 37mm internal with 2.5 exo tires. Most of the time ride 23front, 25rear in Northern Ontario's rocks and roots. I've used down to 20F, 22R but find it too soft and risky for rim hits. I've use 25f and 27r for 'big' trails where major jumps and drops on rocks concern me, but find the ride a bit harsh. 
I used the same on 30mm rims but the lower pressures on the bigger tires was too squirmy. 

Re biking advancements:
I went from old geometry 2011FS 26in narrow rims to 2018 modern geometry,160F/140R susp, 27.5 wide (then wider) rims, tubeless, 175mm dropper post good brakes etc. etc. 
I can't say what the 'best' or 'most important' advancement was, I really enjoyed riding in the woods since 1990, but at 65yrs old I'm having more fun on bigger trails than ever. 
Bikes are sooooo much fun!
Ride on!!


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## HighsideClyde (4 d ago)

A thread I can contribute to! I am 6‘2” and 255lbs unclothed. Probably about 260-265lbs kitted.

*2020 Specialized Fuse with stock wheels, tubeless, no inserts*
F: 29x2.6 Butcher Grid Trail at 26 PSI
R: 29x2.35 Slaughter Grid Trail at 30 PSI
Notes: I tried running a 29x2.3 Ground Control with the Control casing on the rear once and that was a disaster… at 30 PSI it was folding over all over the place, where the Grid Trail has been great. I was kinda under the impression that I shouldn’t run over 30 PSI, but I think I’ll be trying 35 PSI in the rear in 2023 since I do get a couple rim dings here and there, and I wouldn’t mind a little less rolling resistance. 

*2023 Specialized SJ EVO Expert with stock wheels, tubed, no inserts*
F: 29x2.3 Butcher Grid Trail T9 at 35 PSI
R: 29x2.3 Eliminator Grid Trail T7 at 40 PSI
Notes: I only have one ride on the bike so far, but the pressures feel good! Since I have the rear suspension now, I don’t mind cranking up the rear tire pressure. I do plan to convert to tubeless in the spring, but will probably keep running similar pressures. That T9 Butcher has such soft tread (in a good way) that I already feel more confident on it than I did on the Fuse set up even with more pressure and less width.


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## socalrider77 (Sep 1, 2012)

HighsideClyde said:


> A thread I can contribute to! I am 6‘2” and 255lbs unclothed. Probably about 260-265lbs kitted.
> 
> *2020 Specialized Fuse with stock wheels, tubeless, no inserts*
> F: 29x2.6 Butcher Grid Trail at 26 PSI
> ...


I’m not sure how you ride (if you’re smooth or if you bash), but you could drop the evo pressures to 30psi front and 35-37psi rear and be ok and have a bit more grip, at least up front 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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