# DIY ebike



## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Due to recent ebike woes I am now looking at creating an ebike DIY commuting masterpiece. 

Frame: 27.5, maybe carbon. Already have wheels.

Drive: Bafang Mid, maybe BBSHD. I've read this motor is more robust than it's smaller counterpart. 

Thoughts? Will be nice to simply order a new motor, controller or whatever if needed and swap it in myself. Also the price is still much lower than buying a complete ebike.


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## PurpleMtnSlayer (Jun 11, 2015)

I cannot reccomend this product of manufacturer. But here is a diy mule for you.

http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/TURBO/Mtb/20190415/194.html


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## Crankout (Jun 16, 2010)

Our good friend Picard released this not long ago...


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

That's ingenious! Anti-torque twine.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

dundundata said:


> Due to recent ebike woes I am now looking at creating an ebike DIY commuting masterpiece.
> 
> Frame: 27.5, maybe carbon. Already have wheels.
> 
> ...


I have a DIY commuter with a Bafang and if I had to do it over I would not use that particular motor. The PAS only is fine at upper speeds but when you want/need to go slower it is not a great solution.

If I was going to do it again I would use a TONGSHENG motor that is torque and PAS.

If you want to go all in whole hog build your own battery pack, I build one out of A123 batteries. Great power but not as much capacity as Samsung or Panasonic 18650's though.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

Crankout said:


> Our good friend Picard released this not long ago...


We do a show with several of the battery tool manufacturers and one of them used to bring one of those "pocket" bicycles with like 6" wheels that was powered by one of their drills.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

KenPsz said:


> I have a DIY commuter with a Bafang and if I had to do it over I would not use that particular motor. The PAS only is fine at upper speeds but when you want/need to go slower it is not a great solution.
> 
> If I was going to do it again I would use a TONGSHENG motor that is torque and PAS.
> 
> If you want to go all in whole hog build your own battery pack, I build one out of A123 batteries. Great power but not as much capacity as Samsung or Panasonic 18650's though.


That seems like a good option. I definitely like the torque sensor in the Brose. I noticed it comes with brake levers. Would I need anything extra to use hydro's with the Tongsheng?


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I do have a few Dewalt's lying around but I think something beefier is in order.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

After some research I think the Bafang may still be the better choice, just seems like a more robust motor. I can see how the lack of torque sensor won't be as nice but you can customize through software at least. The great thing about a build like this is I could always swap out the motor for a different brand! 

Going to go with a 52V high capacity battery, probably in the 700Wh range or so.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

dundundata said:


> That seems like a good option. I definitely like the torque sensor in the Brose. I noticed it comes with brake levers. Would I need anything extra to use hydro's with the Tongsheng?


You will have to look into that I am sure someone has done it. Even for my Banfang I had to do a bit of a hack to get the magnetic sensors to work with my hydro levers.


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## Whiptastic (Mar 14, 2016)

I’ve been riding BBS02 DIY bikes for about 3 years now. Great product and wonderful for commuting for so many reasons. I’ve swapped them from frame to frame over the years. Bought quality GA battery packs that also swap along with the mid-drives from bike to bike. PAS is the way to go for commuting. Don’t let anyone tell you that torque sensors are the only and best choice (BS!). Most aftermarket torque sensors function more like pedal controlled on/off throttles with little to no variation in control.

Bafang BBS02 750w/48V mid-drives can go as slow as you like or as fast as you like. They can easily be set to 9 levels of assist and “programmed” to your liking if you are so inclined (I’m not). Also the cadence and gear reduction on the BBS02 is much better for pedaling a bike than the BBSHD (trust me on this or test the two before buying).

Here’s what makes the PAS on the BBS02 so nice for commuting. The assist levels are actually speed controls; more assist faster speed and cadence. As you reach that levels speed, the assist slowly backs off the watts applied conserving battery use or simply assisting you up to speed, then you take over with your legs. Yes, it’s a bike and it is meant to be pedaled! Lol...

My recommendation is a Bafang BBS02 Color Dislay (allows more easy display setting controls) 750W/48V with a quality Samsung-Panasonic GA battery pack. Don’t go 52V and don’t buy in to needing “more power” than 750W’s.

Good luck and enjoy your ride.


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## bipolarbear (Mar 29, 2009)

Just built a Salsa Mukluk with a BBSHD and the thing rips. Still sorting out a few chainline issues, but other than that it is full on. Crazy how much power. Agreed that you can easily get away with a BBS02 on a smaller BB but they don't make it in bigger BB sizes. So make sure you measure your BB.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

Whiptastic said:


> I've been riding BBS02 DIY bikes for about 3 years now. Great product and wonderful for commuting for so many reasons. I've swapped them from frame to frame over the years. Bought quality GA battery packs that also swap along with the mid-drives from bike to bike. PAS is the way to go for commuting. Don't let anyone tell you that torque sensors are the only and best choice (BS!). Most aftermarket torque sensors function more like pedal controlled on/off throttles with little to no variation in control.
> 
> Bafang BBS02 750w/48V mid-drives can go as slow as you like or as fast as you like. They can easily be set to 9 levels of assist and "programmed" to your liking if you are so inclined (I'm not). Also the cadence and gear reduction on the BBS02 is much better for pedaling a bike than the BBSHD (trust me on this or test the two before buying).
> 
> ...


I have that same motor setup and unless you are going to manipulate the assist level while riding going slow is a problem. Since once you make a 1/4 revolution the motor kicks in so if you need to go slow over say slick asphalt for a short area it is difficult.

I will disagree with you on the battery voltage. Motors like higher voltage and 52 volts works better than 48 volts.

I rarely ride over assist level 4 which when I am pedaling I don't go over 300 watts. My legs are happy, motor is happy and batteries are happy.

The Bafang is a great motor I just would like the torque sensor for when I need to ride much slower than the PAS system allows for on the fly.


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

With my two older BBSHD rides (with older programming I suppose) I use minuscule amounts of throttle (is that a dirty word here??) and 0 levels of PAS, along with me pedaling of course, to get the most instant and fine tuned amount of E assist. The PAS always wants to help me too damn much, even on 1, and yes I have it setup for 9 levels. As mentioned, I could reprogram it, which is a great feature, but really don't feel the need.

My "town bike", which has a newer BBSO2, seems to respond better to using the PAS system, it is not as "assisty", but it also does not respond as well to using the throttle and pedaling, it's programming makes the throttle cut out when you pedal, it I ride almost exclusively using the PAS. I have had excellent service out of all three, with zero issues to date, over 3 years now. 52 volt, all the way! Nothing but advantages, no drawbacks, to higher volts.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

I've had four years of great assist on my BBS02 using it almost exclusively off road. Only drawback to 52V that I can perceive is the "voltmeter" on older displays (not the newest from Lunacycle) aren't accurate since they're set for 48V.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

fos'l said:


> I've had four years of great assist on my BBS02 using it almost exclusively off road. Only drawback to 52V that I can perceive is the "voltmeter" on older displays (not the newest from Lunacycle) aren't accurate since they're set for 48V.


I got around that problem by putting my own meter inline. Now I get accurate volts and milliamps used. Nice to have gas gauge in place.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Good idea; never been a problem for me since I know when the "gauge" starts to decrease, the battery is near the end. However, the bike is easy to pedal without the motor if/when that happens.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I am going to get the USB cable to program the PAS. From what I have read you can fine tune it to make slower riding more tolerable and less lurchy.

Order are away. Some stuff coming in from China. Hopefully I'll have this beast together by mid-October. Stay tuned for updates...

I'm actually looking at the Tongsheng TSDZ2 again. It's fairly cheap, though a BBS02 isn't much more expensive. But...they have a 36V version and I happen to have 2 36V 500Wh batteries sitting around waiting for a working Brose motor. Well if the Brose doesn't get fixed this maybe a good option to turn my spare commuter into something more powerful.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

fos'l said:


> Good idea; never been a problem for me since I know when the "gauge" starts to decrease, the battery is near the end. However, the bike is easy to pedal without the motor if/when that happens.


Oh mine SUCKS when the battery goes dead since I put a 52 tooth ring on. Nice and fast but OMG when you have no battery it is like going up hill the whole time.


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## adcockj (Jun 17, 2019)

I'm glad to hear that you're going to get a cable and program the assist levels. I have a BBSHD, and have played with programming the PAS levels and throttle quite a bit. You'll find that you can have VERY precise control over the amount of assist you get at each level and the speed at which the assist stops (along with how gradually the assist starts and stops). You can also save the settings and switch them at will (with the cable & computer).

You should be able to get the operation exactly the way you want it.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I did end up going with the BBSHD as it just seems like a monster motor that I won't have to worry about. The battery it comes with is pretty massive. New 27.5 frame on the way as well.

I was also looking at the Tongsheng TSDZ2 again. They have a 36V version and I happen to have a couple 36V batteries sitting around waiting for a working Brose motor. This could be a good option to turn my spare commuter into something powerful.

Question is would it be possible? The batteries have the connection for the (Brose) motor controller as well as red and black power cables.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

dundundata said:


> I did end up going with the BBSHD as it just seems like a monster motor that I won't have to worry about. The battery it comes with is pretty massive. New 27.5 frame on the way as well.
> 
> I was also looking at the Tongsheng TSDZ2 again. They have a 36V version and I happen to have a couple 36V batteries sitting around waiting for a working Brose motor. This could be a good option to turn my spare commuter into something powerful.
> 
> Question is would it be possible? The batteries have the connection for the (Brose) motor controller as well as red and black power cables.


You would need to find out if those batteries are tied to the BMS or if the controller acts as the BMS. If you hook up a volt meter do you see voltage?


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

All depends on what you want. The BBSHD is a very well made mid drive kit. You can also look at the Cyclone mid drive kits. The kit you buy depends on the frames bottom bracket and if the motor will fit. Dont want to be stuck with the mid drive kit and a bike thats not doable. Buy the kit and the battery. This aint the forum for DIY ebikes, its all store bought ebikes primarily. You'd be better off at the other fourm for everything to do with DIY ebikes.

Places to buy mid drives
CycloneTW
Luna Cycle
among others



dundundata said:


> Due to recent ebike woes I am now looking at creating an ebike DIY commuting masterpiece.
> 
> Frame: 27.5, maybe carbon. Already have wheels.
> 
> ...


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

KenPsz thank you for your response. I did not get any voltage when using a meter. I am linking the battery and its connectors.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=10dU6p7ZAmkj3-QJJXbiBsFRFfQNeCDNR

https://drive.google.com/open?id=10e4z4eDcHfsrXJziBTVkx3ZkdI2Oph2b


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

dundundata said:


> KenPsz thank you for your response. I did not get any voltage when using a meter. I am linking the battery and its connectors.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=10dU6p7ZAmkj3-QJJXbiBsFRFfQNeCDNR
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=10e4z4eDcHfsrXJziBTVkx3ZkdI2Oph2b


Not sure what type of electronics you have there. I would bet the controller needs to interact to get voltage.


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## richj8990 (Apr 4, 2017)

KenPsz said:


> I have a DIY commuter with a Bafang and if I had to do it over I would not use that particular motor. The PAS only is fine at upper speeds but when you want/need to go slower it is not a great solution.
> 
> If I was going to do it again I would use a TONGSHENG motor that is torque and PAS.
> 
> If you want to go all in whole hog build your own battery pack, I build one out of A123 batteries. Great power but not as much capacity as Samsung or Panasonic 18650's though.


Ken why is the Bafang not good at low speeds? Can't you turn the assist down to 100 watts or so and then shift into the appropriate cog? Oh wait, you have a mid-drive...on pavement. OK I get it now. Dude, don't be afraid to try a geared hub drive on payment, they are buttery smooth at all speeds.


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## KenPsz (Jan 21, 2007)

richj8990 said:


> Ken why is the Bafang not good at low speeds? Can't you turn the assist down to 100 watts or so and then shift into the appropriate cog? Oh wait, you have a mid-drive...on pavement. OK I get it now. Dude, don't be afraid to try a geared hub drive on payment, they are buttery smooth at all speeds.


I have built a hub system I don't like them. I prefer the mid drive since it is nicer to both the batteries and the motor. I'm 240lbs so the hub system gets into watt levels they are not built for.

Bafang is really nice at higher speeds but lower it just surges a bit when trying to be under say 7mph. So I have gotten used to pedal coast, pedal coast when I need to go slower. The assist up assist down game is a pain to play with.


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

I disagree, it sounds like a programming issue. My BBSHD, both of them, are smooth as glass at speeds barely fast enough to stay upright. When I climb the steep rocky moto X trails in my area I set the PAS at zero, keep my pedaling effort and cadence as high as I can endure, and use the thumb throttle to make up any difference. I can crawl up stuff steeper then I want to ride down, at below 5 mph speeds. This takes the proper low gearing of course. The Bafang PAS system DOES suck at very slow technical riding, but proper use of the throttle solves the issue. The only time I use PAS is when street riding or when on lesser slopes.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Pretty happy with the Bafang setup so far. Plenty of power. Installation took a bit of custom work because my BB wasn't completely flush in the middle, and the large battery barely fit the frame. I ended up ditching the connector tied to the battery holder and soldering my own.

For now this beast sits on my old 26er rigid with some high volume tires. I didn't find low speed riding too difficult on the lower PAS settings for commuting. It's not as smooth or natural as the Brose but I am impressed with the power. Brake/shift sensors are a must for me though and made the ride alot better.

I still have the programming cable to try out but for now I'm happy with how it works. The DPC-18 is very nice and the cabling setup was easy. Not sure I even need the throttle.

Still waiting for a new frame and I will swap the BBSHD to it and probably get a BBS02 for the 26er. Another thing is the motor seems efficient, I didn't use much battery at all on first ride. The bike is not too terrible to ride with the motor off. While not as nice overall as a well-designed custom e-bike the ability to DIY and be able to order new parts easily is great.

I have the 46t monster Bafang chainring installed now but also ordered a 130bcd adapter. I might go with a 48 narrowwide but the stock ring seems fine.

I will add some pictures and updates once I get everything settled.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

THe BBSHD is a great product to install on your bicycle. Millions of people have done it. Mid drives are good for a specific purpose so if you have lots of hills or you have steep hills then its a great product to install yourself on your own bicycle.

Yes, it is as easy as ordering the BBSHD kit and installing the new motor, controller or whatever. Well you'd need a few throttles, keep some for spares. And you'd need a battery. Buying an ebike from a store means you are a slave to the mans propriatory system.



dundundata said:


> Due to recent ebike woes I am now looking at creating an ebike DIY commuting masterpiece.
> 
> Frame: 27.5, maybe carbon. Already have wheels.
> 
> ...


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

Not to knock those who buy a complete ready to ride ebike, but for those that roll their own, so to speak, there is great satisfaction in cobbling together a ride that get's the job done and just maybe, offers greater performance at lesser cost. 

There is a similar thing going on with light aircraft, those of us who build our own feel like we are getting a better deal, though at the cost of our labor. The good thing is when, and if, repairs are needed, we can handle it, as we built it.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

BBSHD has been great so far. I just ordered a BBS02 for a second bike. I also got the Luna tool which is sturdier than the included one. I used a strap to help keep the motor from rotating but went ahead and ordered the Luna bracket for both motors. I would advise be careful in this regard because if loose it could damage your frame.

I have come to appreciate the throttle particularly at high speeds when the motor overtakes all pedal effort or at low speeds when I need a small amount of acceleration (or at middle speeds when feeling lazy). It takes a bit more skill to learn and ride than the torque sensor motor I was using. Definitely get a shift sensor and the brake sensor for hydros. I just put one on the left brake. It's nice to use if I want to downshift without activating the motor when spinning the cranks.

Battery is now sealed with silicone and connector changed to XT90 anti-spark. Much better than the crap connector on the downtube and the Anderson connector on the motor.

I was out last week for a horrendous windy pouring rain ride and glad to say everything is still working! I did cover the display with a plastic bag, just incase. Impressed with the Bafang setup so far, we'll see how it holds up, and at least I can order parts easily.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

It is literally so easy to build your own ebike, it is not even funny. Some kits are even plug and play so you dont have to solder your own connections. One of the great things with the ebike industry is that there are legit and reputable companies that you can buy from that will make your kit plug and play and you can buy everything you need to get rolling from one company. Motor, controller, throttle, battery and optional displays. I would not want to buy a battery from an unknown entity on ebay, alibaba or aliexpress. There is tons of info out there where you dont have to gamble like that.

I purchased a few kits from an Brit/American in china that has been selling reputable products for a long time, www.em3ev.com what an amazing service they do! I have also bought kits from leafbike/leafmotor (a spare bike), conhismotor (sold that kit a few yrs ago), yescomusa/xcceries (sold ebike), mxus factory in China (damaged) and a Cyclone mid drive in Tawain (On my fat bike). I have 3 ebikes sitting in my garage and will get it down to 2, one for summer/spring/fall and one for winter. Idea of the 3rd was to have a really bad looking ebike when I go to shady areas.

Your money goes a lot further when you build your own ebike. The now defunked BionX was a company that had propriatary system. The first ebike I ever rode was from a bicycle store and I was hooked. It took a year or two later to find certain helpful forums, to do research and to buy the big block of motors. I burnt the brushes on one department store wimpy motor, it was a 250W brushed which did not last long at all.

I have lots of spare parts now that I have been in the hobby for a bit. I got a few spare controllers, a half dozen throttles. I need to find a new source for used tool pack batteries, but I may just start building my packs from brand new 18650 from the Netherlands, as I do have a tab welder. Its just a lot of time building a pack like that.

The solderless and weldless packs are an option too. Some great products out there for sale, but I have never tried them. My first pack was hobby LiPo's, second was 26650 from a bus, third was LiMn from toolpacks. Still using it, but 2 of them got stolen. I never fully secured them as I should have.



portnuefpeddler said:


> Not to knock those who buy a complete ready to ride ebike, but for those that roll their own, so to speak, there is great satisfaction in cobbling together a ride that get's the job done and just maybe, offers greater performance at lesser cost.
> 
> There is a similar thing going on with light aircraft, those of us who build our own feel like we are getting a better deal, though at the cost of our labor. The good thing is when, and if, repairs are needed, we can handle it, as we built it.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*Bafang!*

I've had some time with the BBSHD and BBS02 motors and it has been alot of fun. The blue bike is my new 27.5 build with HD motor and the silver is my old 26er commuter with 02.

Comparing the motors the 02 is lighter and a bit smaller but still packs quite a punch. I expected a more noticeable change coming off the HD motor but the 02 still has plenty of power. The difference comes in the top speed where the HD takes the lead and also when battling headwinds where the extra power is nice-but by no means necessary.

Hopefully the beefiness of the HD also means it will last longer without issue as the blue bike will be my main ride. As you can see I installed brackets from Luna on both bikes to keep the motor in place. Bafang should include these brackets with the motor as they really lock everything into place. In fact they make that lockring practically unnecessary. I also recommend the Luna tool for the lockring as it's pretty cheap but a fair bit better than the included wrench.

I am impressed with the wiring for these motors, particularly the connectors for the display and different sensors. The display is also very nice. I did solder XT90's for the power connectors.

The power is great on both motors and I show up to work without a sweat. While I do also enjoy a good torque sensor, between the PAS levels and throttle I end up with a pretty smooth ride, though not as natural as the Brose motor for instance.


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

Do me a favor and drill some nicely chamfered lightning holes is your brackets. It'd make it look cooler and wouldn't hurt a thing, plus of course shave a few grams off. Having the holes reduce in diameter as the brackets taper would be a nice touch. Building airplanes, you get WAY into the zen of L holes, half the fun being guessing correctly (hopefully) what material you can remove without reducing the strength past what is needed.

On my own two BBSHD builds, I took some 1/16" stainless aircraft cable I had laying around, and a small marine turnbuckle, and by drilling a small hole in one of the cooling fins accomplished the same thing: a bulletproof motor securing. I also use a 24" pipe wrench on my special socket tool for that nut, and put a sh*tload of torque on it, as I have heard there is no record of anyone anywhere ever stripping it out, so I am not shy about really reefing on it. That and cable rigging it, or your brackets, is a belt and suspenders approach, a bit overkill but so what. 

I took the stock chain ring on both and put them in my shop's scrap metal bin, and got Lekkie wide/narrow ones, and have never had chain issues and saved a bit of weight. The Bafangs, stock or modded a bit, are a great bang for the e buck.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I bought adapters for the chainrings but trying to fit them messed up the chainline too much for my liking, it put the chainring too far out. I have the Luna 48t chainring but it has the opposite issue where it will touch the chainstay so I am going to try some spacers. However I found with a clutch derailleur using the stock rings works out ok. Without the clutch the chain would drop on occasion. They both have 46t right now which I think is plenty for the street and trying to keep the rpm's high.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Good to hear the BBS's have been functioning well. My BBS02 (with the original "bad" controller) has been perfect for four years of pretty hard off road use. For that purpose, the Luna 30 tooth ring works and since it's coupled with "three-speed" (11-17-28) cogs (8-speed spacing), the chain line isn't at a radical angle. I have a Haibike-Yamaha hardtail that is dressed up with a Fox fork and light Easton wheels, but it's not as much fun to ride as the DIY and languishes in the garage.


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## highroad 2 (Jan 24, 2017)

I’ve been riding Haibike/Bosch CX for 3 years.
Enjoying my lighter weight 40 pound Hightower/Revel.

I have been riding motos for 55 years.
This BBS02/BBSHD discussion is making me consider my next more powerful bike to replace the motos.

I no longer enjoy picking up 235 pounds and the e bikes go almost fast enough on the tight technical trails I ride.
Almost fast enough is why I want to consider the more powerful BBSHD with a smaller battery, because a 15 mile ride is all I need to get an endorphin fix.
I want 160-200mm front and rear travel for a more cushy moto ride.
The BBSHD appears to have most everything going for it except how far it hangs down below the chain ring on most modern Mt. Bikes.
Any suggestions as to what bike fits my criteria?
Thanks
Highroad


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Can you explain your gearing more, do you mean you have only 3 cogs? It would make sense to me to have less gears with bigger gaps. If I didn't have to shift in so much the chainline would be fine. With a 30t I imagine it wouldn't be an issue but trying to fit a 48 throws things off. I am interested to see if I can fit the custom Luna chainring.

But I do think 46t is a good gear for the street because I can keep the rpms higher more easily and with the throttle the motor is happy to spin that gear plenty fast.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Agreed, for the street you need the larger "46". You have the correct concept of my system. With just three gears at the "right" end of the cassette, the chainline is excellent ("straight" with the "17" so only one click off on either side). The resultant is very gradual wear of the drivetrain. Also, with the motor, three gears are enough (for me). Eight speed was chosen for the gap since the Altus derailleur, shifter, chain and cogs are inexpensive and who cares about a few grams with a motor.


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## portnuefpeddler (Jun 14, 2016)

All this goes away with the use of a Rohloff hub! I liked my first one so much on my Montague I ended up getting another for my fat bike, my trail rider of choice, and have never regretted it. One of those expensive things, that are truly worth it. I now look forward for shifting, instead of dreading it, a slight exaggeration but the point is, shifting into any gear at any speed, even stopped, AND having the wide gearing spread it offers (slow/fast) spoils you quick.


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## shreddr (Oct 10, 2009)

I want to convert one of my old 26" MTB's to e-bike with 36V 250W Bafang/8fun BBS01B Mid Crank Drive. Will I be able to use the 36V battery and BMS from my Focus Bold2 that is Shimano E8000? Thanks


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

shreddr said:


> I want to convert one of my old 26" MTB's to e-bike with 36V 250W Bafang/8fun BBS01B Mid Crank Drive. Will I be able to use the 36V battery and BMS from my Focus Bold2 that is Shimano E8000? Thanks


FME, OEM systems are proprietary, and it would be difficult (or impossible) to use the Shimano battery with the BBS. That said, I would need to look at the battery connections.


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## shreddr (Oct 10, 2009)

The Focus battery has spade hooks that are connected to the Shimano pigtail and plug. I'm not so worried about getting it to plug in as I am getting it to function. I'm no electrical engineer, so I don't know how proprietary a BMS is.


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## shreddr (Oct 10, 2009)

https://www.emtbforums.com/community/threads/focus-jam-2-complete-wiring-loom.3973/


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

KenPsz said:


> I have built a hub system I don't like them. I prefer the mid drive since it is nicer to both the batteries and the motor. I'm 240lbs so the hub system gets into watt levels they are not built for.
> 
> Bafang is really nice at higher speeds but lower it just surges a bit when trying to be under say 7mph. So I have gotten used to pedal coast, pedal coast when I need to go slower. The assist up assist down game is a pain to play with.


I've built ebikes for people reaching 400lbs, but I used hub motors, direct drives can soak up the heat and are uber reliable. Lots have had great success with the Leafmotor/Leafbike motors and kits, but not what you want which is mid drive.

The old BionX systems were proprietary, so stay well clear of any proprietary jazz, they are defunked now, but I still see people trying to pawn off BionX in the online classifieds. Store bought ebikes are proprietary and not worth the hassle, plus they are way more expensive.

I like the sensorless controllers from Greentime on aliexpress, store name EVFITTING GREENTIME, dont need to figure out the right hall sensor combo. Just battery pos+ and neg-, 5 throttle wires, and the 3 big phase wires, then it should self learn which sometimes has wires on the cont to plug together.

When I had the Cyclone mid drive, I could start from a stop, at the base of a steep hill and 375lbs of me go up the hill, throttle only, no pedaling. It was amazing, couldnt do that with a hub motor and a weak controller, I always needed speed. I just never liked the sound the mid drives made, people could always hear me coming from behind them, though I had the stock trapezoidal waveform controller. I hear the sinewave controllers and the FOC controllers are way better in reducing noise, but the FOC's are just too expensive, the sinewaves are doable, like the KELLY controllers.

The only thing I havent tried with ebikes, is regen and regen braking. I've heard braking is real good and some people use very little brakes, meaning their brake pads last forever. I go through a lot of brake pads lately.


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## nikkiss (Sep 3, 2019)

shreddr said:


> I want to convert one of my old 26" MTB's to e-bike with 36V 250W Bafang/8fun BBS01B Mid Crank Drive. Will I be able to use the 36V battery and BMS from my Focus Bold2 that is Shimano E8000? Thanks


yes that will be no problem. how much did you found the bafang mid drive?


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## bitnaut (Jun 15, 2020)

bipolarbear said:


> Just built a Salsa Mukluk with a BBSHD and the thing rips.


I'm about to do the same thing with my Mukluk and a BBSHD. Can you give any pointers or gotchas that you encountered when doing this install?

Thanks!

e


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## bicialta (Jul 8, 2020)

*DIY motor unscrews cassette*

hi! this might be in the wrong place, sorry, i don't know where to post it.

on a tallbike that i built, when the motor is activated, the cassette unscrews itself. (see the photo https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o8deDyl01FRu1wqjMrcOWM3-seu1Bcbj/view?usp=sharing, the blue arrow shows what the cassette is doing).

the freewheel of the cassette has been welded (to be able to push the chain).

i tried using superglue on the threads of the cassette, but it only held for about 1 minute.

i don't see how to weld the cassette to the threads.

any suggestions?

thanks!


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