# Sticky  Mountain Biking Skills Videos



## Fuzzle (Mar 31, 2015)

Ladies, if just you're just getting into MTB'ing or working on improving your skills here are some videos that can help.


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## petey15 (Sep 1, 2006)

^ Yeah, this stuff should be in a sticky?


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## formica (Jul 4, 2004)

(I don't love some of the stuff in the first vid)

Here are some of my go tos:











Full one hour version:




Leigh Donovan has been posting some to Instagram #livcycling


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Not video... but a good read from a great rider

sauce: Mountain Bike Skills | Bicycling



> You may not know Jay Hoots, but you're likely familiar with his work. The 44-year-old from Vancouver, British Columbia, has designed cycling gear, earned a reputation as a first-rate coach and instructor, and has built more that 40 bike parks and pump tracks. That mix of experience has given Hoots a unique perspective on what it takes to take your riding to the next level. Whether you're a beginner or veteran mountain biking, these four steps will make faster, smoother and more confident in any situation.
> 
> Pressure control
> Hoots advises his students to learn to move both the bike and your body around for more traction and control. A pump track is a great place to work on this skill, but you can also use something closer to home: a curb. "Riding up, you want to go from the point of getting the front wheel on and then riding your rear wheel up to getting up and over using pressure control," Hoots says. "The object is to get up on the curb touching each tire, but not hitting the curb as a square edge." To practice this, think about more than just hopping up with your feet-it's weighting and unweighting first the front and then the rear of the bike to get it up and on the curb. "Once you're up, practice pumping down the same way," Hoots says. "You want to make it a smooth edge, not a square edge."
> ...


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## ryetoast (Jan 24, 2016)

The GMBN youtube channel has great, short videos on how to do absolutely everything mountain-bike related. Here's their video on track stands, for example:






Be warned they're somewhat addictive, so two hours from now you may know how to do a nose wheelie down switchbacks (in theory) but have otherwise gotten no work done!


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## caratunkgirl (Nov 25, 2015)

ryetoast said:


> Be warned they're somewhat addictive, so two hours from now you may know how to do a nose wheelie down switchbacks (in theory) but have otherwise gotten no work done!


Yup. I have spent a lot of time watching the GMBN! Those guys are hilarious but also have some great stuff. As a complete newbie I am not sure I can do any of it at this point, but still super fun to watch!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Not a video but a good read about body position

Your Body position affects how much fun you are having. | A Singletrack Mind Professional Mountain Bike Skills Coaching











> The picture above shows what your middle range of motion is for a good Offensive riding position.
> My goal for this position is to maintain a centered, or neutral position on the bike.
> As you look at the above picture notice where the COM (center of mass) is.
> Weight is in line with the Bottom Bracket. This is what we would call LOG (line of gravity).
> ...


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Cornering

How To Corner With Anneke Beerten and Rachel Throop - Video - Pinkbike

Nice solid tips from pro women


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## petey15 (Sep 1, 2006)

^ I can use sooo much work on that!


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Climbing with Lindsey How To Climb With Lindsey Voreis - Video - Pinkbike


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

Who makes it through? Just one. Hint, she is the last one...



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=525875504204121


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## formica (Jul 4, 2004)

Yikes.... The first crash looked very serious, landing on the back of the neck that is very dangerous. You notice he (she?) rolled down the hill and did not even sit up? Scary.


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## ryetoast (Jan 24, 2016)

Merciful god! That's the best advertisement for neck braces I've ever seen!! D:


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## supersedona (Dec 17, 2012)

I've seen some knarly courses but wow. That many riders getting bit the same way...


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

mtbxplorer said:


> Climbing with Lindsey How To Climb With Lindsey Voreis - Video - Pinkbike


"Boobs to the bars, ladies" lol love it!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

mtbxplorer said:


> Who makes it through? Just one. Hint, she is the last one...
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=525875504204121


Ha! Reminds me of some of the DH trails at Mont Ste Anne, Quebec


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Good essential skills here:


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## MTBR_Saris (Apr 26, 2016)

Has anyone checked out the new Vittoria How To Series on the homepage? So far, there's:

How to do a wheelie
Five tips for descending


I've been digging the Ryan Leech video series. It's a subscription service, but worth it. He breaks down moves step by steps and each video gives you a different technique to learn and build on.


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## ryetoast (Jan 24, 2016)

Some cornering tips from Jill Kitner: https://dirtmountainbike.com/how-to...intner-bryn-atkinson.html#k8fyuLvaEembpGI2.01

I so need to work on this!


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Here's another good one.


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## formica (Jul 4, 2004)

Kat Sweet is making some awesome bids for REI/ MTBProject


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## s h a r i (Jul 9, 2005)

lots of good riding info in these videos from Simon Lawton Free Videos Fluidride


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## ryetoast (Jan 24, 2016)

s h a r i said:


> lots of good riding info in these videos from Simon Lawton Free Videos Fluidride


Thanks for sharing! The "use your knees to drive through turns" one was an instant game changer for me. I love those "aha" moments when you can isolate and work on something in your riding that's been holding you back!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

> If you're thinking about tackling some drops at the local trails, this list of tips will get you on the right track.
> 
> Drops can seem scary when first starting out on your journey towards mountain biking radness, but as with any technique, there's a few tips and pointers that can make the learning process that much smoother.
> 
> ...


sauce: https://www.redbull.com/ca-en/tips-...27251&kwp_0=461212&kwp_4=1682623&kwp_1=722627


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## formica (Jul 4, 2004)

Keep in mind that if you go off a drop in attach position, there's nothing left to absorb the landing. My work with Kat Sweet has you extending your body, but not locking it out, so that your body can work as suspension and absorb the landing when you land.


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

formica said:


> Keep in mind that if you go off a drop in attach position, there's nothing left to absorb the landing. My work with Kat Sweet has you extending your body, but not locking it out, so that your body can work as suspension and absorb the landing when you land.


Ultra true!!! Yes!!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Short steep climbs have been my nemesis... throw in some turns, and I'm done. This video is great.






Some take away : If sitting, my chest should be low to the bars and I'm on the nose of the saddle. When standing, try to get my hips forward and low towards the front of the bike. This will help keep the front end down and gives good traction (When I sit too far back, my front tire lifts up, I lose traction and bail.. and I want to stop that  )


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## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Good stuff. I've ridden up in Bellingham.

https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-videos/watch-mtb-skills-coach-angi-weston-best-job-world/


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## movingmountain (Jun 6, 2004)

Lee likes bike with Trainer. Road a good watch


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Some excellent tips here to improve balance


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## kalbones_01 (Jul 11, 2014)

In in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Special18 (Oct 2, 2018)

Skills with Phill. Lots of vids like this out there. I like his approach and his attention to detail. Enjoy!

5 beginner skills that you can learn without trails.






6 beginner mountain bike skills that you can learn anywhere.






Introduction to MTB turning techniques | MTB turning basics part #1


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

ok not a skills video... but I like Miley Cyrus and this revised version of Santa Baby ... is hilarious!! Equal pay, we're getting there, slowly but surely.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^ Hahaha, hohohoho, well done!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

okay I'm going to work on this


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Sharing a good article on climbing technique: standing vs seated

*STOMP OR CHOMP: Standing vs Seated Climbing*

Everyone has a different riding style. Even when choosing between whether to sit or stand while climbing, riding style comes into play. It may be how you grew up riding, maybe there was an influential coach that pushed you one way or the other, or maybe there was a pro rider you tried to emulate. Regardless of which it is, there's likely a way you inherently prefer to climb. But science can also help to determine whether you should sit or stand while climbing. Standing while climbing is much more similar to running than turning over the pedals while sitting. A more vertical position on the bike results in higher heart rate and higher oxygen consumption, but not greater energy expenditure according to some detailed studies. Running uses more energy and is less efficient than riding, but the energy expenditure is different in cycling; standing versus sitting uses the same energy.

*Lower Body Mass = More Standing Time*

Larger riders will use more energy proportionally while standing. There is more weight to support along with more weight to bring up the hill. The loose formula to figure out climbing style is to divide weight in pounds by height in inches.A 2 to 1 ratio or lower is usually a pure climber who can ride out of the saddle for long periods of time. A 2.1-2.5 to 1 ratio can benefit from switching between styles. A ratio of 2.5 to 1 or greater should probably stay seated to benefit from the bike supporting the rider's weight.
*
Perceived Excersion*

According to this study on whether to sit or stand while climbing, the subjects experienced a significantly lower perceived exertion on a ten percent grade while standing versus sitting.This is despite a much higher heart rate and oxygen uptake. Good sensations in the legs do not always tell the whole story. In fact, they may even lead you astray of the most efficient method of cresting a climb.

*A Definitive Study*

Ernst Hansen's 2008 Study of ten well-trained male cyclists is likely the most definitive study on whether to sit or stand while climbing. The subjects were tested on a ten percent climb at four levels of power. There was no difference between standing and sitting at the lowest level;eighty-six percent of VO2 Max power. It is still an intense effort, but it allows for a rider to make a choice whether to sit or stand while climbing.The study found that ninety-four percent of VO2Max power is the tipping point where climbing while standing versus sitting becomes more efficient. At the two upper levels tested, up to a maximum of 165 percent of VO2 Max power,standing was far more efficient.You must remember that this efficiency holds true only if it is a skill that you have honed and allowed your muscles to adapt to. It will be highly inefficient to climb out of the saddle if you have not trained this skill.

*Consider the Gradient*

Some hills do not give you a choice of whether you can sit or stand while climbing. Some hills are so steep (or perhaps your bike is wildly over-geared for steep hills) that to get over them you must climb out of the saddle. This is a consideration of your threshold and how low you will let your cadence go. You may be able to
grind out a twenty percent climb in a 39/25 at 38rpm, but it probably is not the most efficient way to make it to the top. Engaging your arm muscles to rock the bike is the order of the day when the climbs get really steep.

A corollary to being over-geared or under- cadenced is whenever cadence becomes uncomfortably low, stand up and climb, even if it is not necessarily based on the gradient.

*Comfort*

Research likely does not consider comfort regardless of the efficiency that it may find. Riding out of the saddle opens your hips to recruit your calves and glutes, which likely remain fresher than your tired quads. Sometimes you want to give a muscle group or your sit bones a rest. Shifting from standing to sitting or vice versa can help keep your body fresher for longer, especially on a really long climb.

*Traction*

When roads or trails get wet, traction changes.A climb that may be perfectly fine to ride out of the saddle in the dry may now spin your rear wheel out when wet. Another traction consideration is loose dirt roads. You will be forced to sit just to make it over a climb that has a lot of dirt and gravel and is loose.All of the data can make for some confusing choices.

Here are some good rules of thumb to help you decide whether to sit or stand while climbing:

If the grade is too steep, stand.

If you can maintain a cadence while climbing near what you maintain on flats, sit.

If your muscles or sit bones need a break,stand.

In the end, climbing while standing is not less efficient if you have trained it. Get out there and practice. At the very least it will give your muscles a break on longer climbs.

sauce https://www.dirtyheart.co.za/single...XHw8hEK25DQqnyyR6BJ0rsdq7nh-uXfL-iuO0ukxr8zg8


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

^^Interesting, thanks for sharing. One thing I like about commuting on my BMX cruiser about once a week is that I have to stand to make it up the mile hill before work. It's good practice, both on technique of standing and also metering out the energy by not overdoing the cadence. It's easy to "blow up" standing if you just go for it without controlling cadence/effort.


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Video: Hitting Jumps & Drops for the First Time - Full Enduro Episode 4

I enjoy watching riders learn new skills. It inspires me to push myself as well. Great video!!


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## fleboz (Apr 22, 2015)

Thanks for posting, interesting read. It would a good comparison for the *A Definitive Study *if they would update it using a modern bike/geometry. i started standing up on my trainer more and more, it really is a different muscle group and technique.


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## mtbxplorer (Dec 25, 2009)

*Christina Chappetta Conquers Fears on the Pinkbike Hot Lap*

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/video...yY2wMNPdJOO1BJSlugVL8iSzAXiQM-2mSBKb-2qOCw_SI


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

This is a great tutorial!


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

Christina and Remy are both amazing riders


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## Gideon Diaz (Feb 17, 2021)

cyclelicious said:


> Christina and Remy are both amazing riders
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is incredibly cool!


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## stripes (Sep 6, 2016)

cyclelicious said:


> Christina and Remy are both amazing riders


Christina is so much fun to watch and learn from.


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

*Up and Overs*

*Introduction*
We all love the flowing feel of gliding down trails, effortlessly zipping along, experiencing Mother Nature at high speed. 'Flow' is not a given and you'll often hear riders praising a trails flow or bemoaning its lack of it. The reality is that, although 'flow' can be engineered into a trail - with swooping smooth transitions and bermed corners all playing their part - better riders find 'flow' even on trails where Mother Nature (or the trail designer) has other ideas.

One of the most common features that can interrupt the holy grail of 'flow' is the good ol' 'up and over'. Whether this is a smooth roller, rocky outcrop or fallen tree, there are ways and means to ensure that we progress smoothly as a rider even when the trail ahead offers more than a little in the way of resistance. Whether it's a super smooth transition, the up then down of a crafted roller, or a more jagged, potentially stall-inducing outcrop of rocks or fallen tree, as a rider there are common skills that we can apply to keep the wheels turning. With the right technique, you can roll smoothly, stay in control and of course importantly, not have to dab a foot down, come to a halt or get disengaged entirely from our two-wheeled steed.

Although the physical nature of up and overs may vary considerably, the core skills that we need to polish are more constant.










*Visual Impairment*
One of the easiest things to correct, but often the one that lets us down first, is what we do (or don't do) with our eyes. Transitions, rough or smooth, can create a tantalisingly attractive focal point and induce us to look to the wrong place. The upside presents us with a face - and we all like to look at one of these. Down to flat transitions on the downslope can be equally compelling. Several issues can arise when you are visually suckered by 'up and overs'. That is not to say you will never get sucked into looking to the wrong point, but we need to recognise when it is happening and deal with it sooner rather than later.

Reducing 'dwell time' is the key to success. Reducing how often and how long we drop our focal vision into the area our peripheral vision covers is the goal. Ideally, we want to look over the high point to further high points as far down the trail as we can see at our eye-line. The reality is the unsighted nature of the downslope (we can not see it as we approach, but will as we crest) or the potential threat of a far from smooth upslope can play tricks on both our mind and body. Looking to not through, can contribute to the bike stalling on the upslope. Simply dropping the head as we look down will transfer more weight forwards and lead to a heavier front wheel that on an uneven upslope will offer up more rolling resistance. As you roll over the top, looking into the down to flat transition once you have crested the 'up and over' can lead to the rider becoming the accelerating mass and starting to overtake the bike. At best you will get a bit of a push forward and cause an increased level of stall, at worst the front wheel will snag and as the rider, you may overtake it. The trick is to ignore the urge to dwell (or even look at all) into the upslope or the downslope. Raising your eye-line will positively affect your body position, especially if combined with good footwork and energy management. It will help you not only keep mentally ahead of the bike but keep your body weight as the under-rotating mass and drive the bike through the transitions, even if they are far from smooth.

*Energy Management*
Pedalling over 'up and over' sections may be possible in some cases, but can lead to pedal strikes, loss of traction and getting 'pushed' as the rider. A far more important skill to apply is your ability to 'pump' the bike. Generating speed in this way will give you the acceleration you need through the entry point and up the upside transition, into the section and carry you to the high point. For added speed, pumping the down slope transition will offer acceleration out through the exit. The smoother the trail surface and the more uniform the curve of the transition the easier it is to pump all the way through the transition. If the 'up and over' has a less than uniform surface at first glance you may struggle to commit to pumping into the upslope and fail to utilise the transition that is there. For sure, you will need to refine how you apply the pressure and be sensitive to how, when and where you deliver the energy through the bike. Too heavy on the front and you risk the front wheel stalling against any protrusions, too quick in transferring weight rearwards and you'll lose control of the front wheel as it lightens and rises from the trail surface. Get the balance right and you can pump through even the roughest of upslopes. This will help you generate the necessary momentum to accelerate the bike up relatively uneven and steep transitions. Once cresting the high point, it’s important to centre up ready to deal with the bikes forward rotation into the downslope. Too far behind the centre line at this point and you won't be able to pump the downslope and 'looping out' can become an issue. Too far forwards and you will likely rotate too much as the bike pitches down the downslope.










As the videos show even the most uneven of surfaces still offer up opportunity to pump for acceleration. Working smooth rollers is simpler, there are fewer inputs to deal with and less chance of the bike stalling. That said, even the most rugged of surfaces provides an opportunity to pump your way to success. The balance between when to weight the bike and when to allow it to rise can be harder to find, but there is a transition to be worked. Fine tuning your pumping will allow you to breeze up and over without losing momentum or confidence. 

*Body Position*
It’s easy to think of big forward and rearward movement of your body around the bike to deal with changes in gradient; however this is not, strictly speaking, the case. Think more of staying in a uniform position just rear of the bikes centre line (the 'pocket'), rather than you rotating letting the bike rotate below you. Lunging your weight forward into the upslope then driving your backside rearwards on the down slope will not serve you well. We want to drive the bike, but do it from a relatively stable platform and keep our weight in what we refer to as the ‘pocket’. Bending and straightening should be done more from the knee than the waist. Driving energy through the bike at the right time can be achieved best by using the levers of the heel and wrist. Dropping heels and wrists creates down and through force, which can drive the bike through the upslope then the downslope without violently altering your overall body position. Controlling the lower half of the body is easy once you set yourself up correctly, but it is the upper body control that can more commonly let a rider down. Try and keep a relatively uniform position in terms of shoulders and hips rather than being flung back then forwards as the bike rotates one way then the other. When showing the trail ahead some respect, think curtsey, not bow.

*Footwork*
As alluded to above, good footwork can optimise your performance. Heels should drop progressively as you ride the upside. At the crest, your heels may rise a little, but remember as your toes drop you accelerate, whereas as your heels drop the bike does. Getting toe heavy at the crest can set your body mass on a trajectory where you start to overtake the bike as it falls away from you into the downslope. Your forks are there to help but are by no means a 'catch all' and they sure as hell won't catch you if you have gained too much forward momentum at the peak. That said, hanging way out the back as the bike levels at the top will lose your directional control and can lead to issues as you descend the other side of the hump. Once descending and rolling through the downslope transition, heels dropping will accelerate the bike, aid traction and help you maintain a high level of control. Once again, it’s dropping the heel more than rotating the whole body mass too far rear of the centre line. Opening up the lever of the ankle and bending the knee in combination will lead to better overall control.









*Mind Games*
Commitment is a big factor to riding any section and it is no different when it comes to getting up and over things. Don't forget we are committing to both the section itself and our own skill set. Be positive in your approach don't just think to the high point, but through it to the exit and beyond. With the exit unsighted as you approach it can be hard to do this. It is natural that what the eyes can't see the body might fear. If you don't commit on the upside, you may not make the crest or if you do you come to a complete halt at the top. Balance can then become an issue as you come to an unexpected halt, teetering at the top of the downside. As a result, you will need to react quickly to the downslope phase of the section, and you may well feel the need to glance down and check the trail that is only just ahead. If you do so, quickly bounce your eyes back up and look for that next high point ahead. If you keep your head level, you are of course more likely to stay, well, level-headed!

The anticipation as you approach the entry point, if left unchecked, can easily lead to common flight and fight responses of tensing and holding your breath. This will not help smooth passage of either bike or rider. Control is about keeping emotional control and not succumbing to these primeval responses. Breath out through the entry and stay supple (although not floppy like a rag doll). The bike needs to move smoothly below you. Ideally, you need to pressure the bike through the transitions rather than hanging on with a death grip and being just a passenger. In terms of concentration, it’s about staying high up what we refer to as the 'concentration ladder'. We should not be thinking 'where am I, what am I doing?' or 'where am I going and how do I get there?' We should be thinking beyond that to 'what is next'. Keep the brain as far ahead of the bike as possible at all times and avoid, if possible, thinking in the 'now'. Thinking in the 'now' will dump you to the bottom of the ladder.

*Speed Control*
It is always important to consider this as a factor, but especially when dealing with 'up and overs'. There is a balance between overcoming and overshooting. You neither want to fail to get up or have the bike accelerate away from you uncontrollably on the way down. Get used to adding any acceleration through pumping once in the section, not pedalling. You might need some should you have approached too slowly or the bike slowed more rapidly than you expected. Having some pump in your pocket to rely on when it is needed is a valuable asset. If you pump rather than pedal, then you will not suffer a loss of traction or risk your body being pushed forward and unweighting the back wheel as you turn the cranks.










'Up and overs' are a standard trail feature that with a little practice and application of certain core skills are less likely to phase you. Understanding the basics and applying them on less technical, smoother transitions will help you quickly progress and approach even the most jagged of rocky outcrops with the same confidence and gusto you would a series of rollers on a pump track. Don't let these lumps disrupt your flow. If 'up and overs' stop you in your tracks keep it simple, commit, look through, think through, pump through, and most of all...get over it! 









How to Up and Overs | Mountain Bike Technique » Skills


We all love the flowing feel of gliding down trails, effortlessly zipping along, experiencing Mother Nature at high speed. 'Flow' is not a given and you'll often hear riders praising a trails flow or bemoaning its lack of it. The reality is that, although 'flow' can be engineered into a trail - wit




www.imbikemag.com


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## cyclelicious (Oct 7, 2008)

*CLIPLESS VS FLAT PEDALS FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING*
*with Lindsey Richter, Director of Inspiration, Liv Ladies AllRide Mountain Bike Camps*
My mountain bike journey began back in the mid-90’s when I jumped right into cross-country racing. Toe clips and straps attached to flat pedals that allowed any shoe to stay secured to the pedal was the standard then. I soon transitioned to “clipless” pedals because that was the trend, especially for racers. For the next 20 years I never even considered straying from clipless pedals until knee surgery in 2019 forced me to give flat pedals an honest try. Begrudgingly, I put flats on my bike, ordered a pair of Liv Shuttle Flat shoes and gave it a go. For the first ten rides I felt like a beginner mountain biker and wanted to put my clips back on! But after committing to flats for an entire year, I will admit, I’m hooked.

*What are flat pedals?*
Flat pedals have a large platform that usually come with replaceable pins (similar to tire studs) so shoes can grip the pedals to help your feet stay put. Running or hiking shoes will work on flat pedals, but special shoes meant for mountain biking are recommended because they tend to be stiffer, more supportive underfoot and have soles made of grippy rubber with a special tread pattern designed to grip the pins.











*FLAT PEDALS FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING: PROS*

*It’s quicker and easier to step off the bike*, since you are not locked into the pedals.
*You’ll have more confidence* when learning to ride and while riding corners, slippery or technical sections of trail, knowing it’s easier to bail without getting stuck.
*It's easier to get off and walk sections of trail.* As a coach, I’m off my bike as much as I’m on it, so flat shoes make it much easier to be on my feet while coaching.
*Flats force us to focus more on technique*. The feet do a lot while mountain biking, and riding flats helps us pay closer attention to weighting our feet more than our hands. As a coach we say: “Heavy feet, light hands.” Practicing good technique while jumping or going off drops can be safer than relying on being clipped in to keep the bike connected to us.
*It's easy to adjust foot position* while you ride to aid balance and grip.
*Flats don't require as much maintenance.* No more issues with loose cleats, broken pedal springs, or mud-packed cleats that inhibit clipping back in!
*Flas have a larger platform for power and stability.* Flat pedals provide a much larger and effective platform to compress with when stomping on the pedals to lift a wheel, jump or pump terrain; more area for the foot and shoe to push against equals better power transfer and bike loading.
*Flat pedals allow us to shift our weight and be a bit more dynamic on the bike* which allows for greater range of motion and body positioning.
*FLAT PEDALS FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING: CONS*

*Without good technique, your feet can come off the pedals* without warning and lead to a crash or a “shinner” (an aggressive pedal strike to the shin that does not feel great). Bonus, cool new scar(s).
*Pedaling can be slightly less efficient* and it is harder to power pedal through rough terrain because your feet get knocked around a bit.
*It can be harder to maintain high cadence pedal strokes*. If you start picking up speed and need to pedal quickly or sprint, your feet can come off the pedals more easily.
*Consistent foot placement requires more attention. *If you get knocked off the pedals or a foot gets bumped to the side, it can be challenging to get the foot back into a comfortable riding position.
*Flat pedals are usually larger in size than clipless*, therefore it's easier to smash them on obstacles along the trail.
*HOW TO RIDE WITH FLAT PEDALS*

*Foot position on the pedal:* You are more stable when you let your toes hang over a bit and position the arch of your foot near the middle of the pedal.
*Consciously staying active with your feet by pushing them into the pedals.* This will help keep your feet planted on the pedals.
*Drop your heels.* When you drop our heels, it gives you a platform from which to brace yourself while going downhill. Dropping the heels while climbing helps to maintain traction between the shoes and the pedals.
*On smoother climbs it’s important to focus on round pedal strokes.* When your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke, point the toes slightly down and push back on the pedal before “scooping” the pedal up while the other foot is pushing down. This takes the place of being able to pull up for full pedal strokes in clipless and helps create smoother pedal strokes.
*For more technical climbs*, using momentum, power and timing of pedal strokes is important so you don’t smash into things and get knocked off your pedals. It also helps (with all riding) to really look ahead on the trail to plan your lines and moves accordingly.
*Ratcheting* (half pedal strokes where you pedal back and forward repeatedly just enough to keep the wheels rolling without using a full pedal stroke) through technical terrain is a great way to control your pedal strokes without hitting the pedals on obstacles.
*What are clipless pedals?*
Clipless pedals have a metal system in the center of both sides of the pedals that requires special shoes with cleats attached to the bottom. The pedal and cleat brand must match, but any mountain bike-specific shoe meant for clipless riding will work with most pedal brands. This design with the cleat was termed ‘clipless’ because there was no longer a cage or clip to keep your foot on the pedal. Confusing, right? So instead of sliding the foot into toe-clips, the cleats click into the built-in pedal system.

*CLIPPING IN FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING: PROS*

*It's easier to maintain a consistent and fast cadence while pedaling. *Sprint away, your feet should stay connected during the action. 
*Clipless pedals help reduce fatigue* because you can pull up with one foot while pushing down with the other to create full pedal strokes which can help with efficiency, cadence and power.
*Foot placement consistency.* Since you are locked in, your feet don’t get knocked around much.
*It’s easier to pedal over bumps, rocks and roots* with clipless pedals because your feet are attached and don’t get bounced around much when the going gets rough.
*More clearance over rocks and other trail obstacles. *Clipless pedals tend to be smaller than flats.
*Increased rear wheel control.* Being clipped in can help you move the rear wheel around and up with your feet without much technique or skill.
*CLIPPING IN FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING: CONS*

*Getting stuck in pedals.* Putting a foot down quickly when you lose balance can sometimes be tricky and cause a crash. Also the slow, “I can’t get out of my clips” tip over crash tends to happen to everyone at some point. (In a parking lot in front of people is common.)
*Difficulty clipping in.* Clipping in quickly after stopping on a rough section of trail, or starting on a climb can be challenging.
*Coming unclipped unexpectedly* can cause a crash.
*Less foot on pedal.* There is a small cleat interface so less foot is pushing into the pedals for explosive moves.
*Incorrect cleat setup can lead to injury.* Make sure the cleats are set up on your shoes in a way that doesn’t hurt your knees or back. A cleat could be twisted to one side or be too far back or too far forward for your body geometry and that takes time to figure out. (A professional bike fit can help with this).
*Raised center of gravity.* Some clipless pedals are thick and raise your center of gravity on the bike, when you usually want to maintain a lower center of gravity for skilled, controlled riding.
*Poor or dangerous technique while jumping or dropping* because you rely on being attached to the pedals instead of practicing proper technique to keep the bike with you in the air. If we come unclipped due to lack of technique while airborne, it can get ugly.
*Mud can get stuck in pedals and cleats* and knock you out of your pedals and prevent you from clipping in until the mud is cleaned out.
*HOW TO RIDE WITH CLIPLESS PEDALS*

*To clip in*, place one foot on the pedal with the cleat lined up so when you push down and forward into the mounting system, your shoe locks in.
*Start by practicing clipping in and out.* You can have someone hold the bike while you practice getting in and out, then move to a safe grassy area to practice. There will most likely be some tipping over when learning how to react.
*In a grassy area clip in with one foot and start pedaling forward.* Rest your unclipped foot on the other pedal and take your time getting it aligned to clip in.
*To clip out*, push down and twist your foot to the side to release the cleat out of the pedal.
*Once on the trail, clip out earlier than necessary.* If you see a section you aren’t sure about, unclip early, step off mindfully and check it out so you enter with full confidence.
*Learn how to make full pedal strokes* by practicing “wiping” the bottom of the shoe across the ground during the bottom of the stroke and then pulling up with that foot while pushing down with the other foot on the downstroke.
*The bottom line is that mountain biking should be fun!* It’s also a sport that requires practice, patience, and skill development to stay as safe as possible to ride for life. Ease into whatever pedals you choose, and if you can, try learning both flats and clipless so you can be a well-rounded rider.

For me personally, I’m so glad I made the switch to flat pedals. Not only has it given me a new focus and improved skills while riding, but it has also improved my coaching since I coach a lot of people who ride in flat pedals. For years I couldn’t give the best advice about handling flats because I wasn’t familiar with them. Now that I have converted to flats, I even find I’m a bit braver in certain situations because the ease of stepping off is comforting. I do occasionally “unclip” my foot while in flats, but I’m getting the hang of just stepping off. Ha! In the end I’m happy I know how to ride both clipless and flats because I have experienced the improvements in my riding and coaching alike and can continue to pay my knowledge forward to others on their mountain biking journey. 





















Clipless Vs Flats for Mountain Biking | Liv Cycling Official site


Wondering if you should ride flat pedals or clipless pedals for mountain biking? We have all the tips you need to decide from Liv Ladies AllRide mountain bike coach Lindsey Richter at Liv-Cycling.com




www.liv-cycling.com


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