# Newbie needs advice on frame disk mount please.



## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Hi all.

This is my first post on mtbr!

I was referred to the site by Walt after I emailed him for info regarding adding a disk mount to my 1997 Kona Cindercone.

So far I have had some advice from a guy called Andy R on the retrobike forum. (See 3rd post in this thread: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72659&highlight=)

The only thing I'm not sure about is the welding. He recommends a type of silver alloy solder that does not require too much heat. Apparently this can be done with a simple blowtorch? Im a total novice on this.

Apart from that I am confident on making the mount and a jig to hold it in place. So far I have cut off the canti bosses (just the post) and prepared the area ready for tapping to M10. The reason I didn't just remove the whole boss is that I'd like to have the option to run cantis in the future if I wanted to use replaceable screw in canti bosses. For now I'll be running Hope Mini Mono's and this option allows me to use these little Hope hose guides which screw into the canti mount.










Mounts prepared for tapping:










For the Caliper mount I have ordered one of these to modify. I didn't realize I could get a ready to weld mount so got one of these as its made of steel and looks about the right size. I'll have to cut off the mounting flange and shape it up to sit nice on the seatstay.










At a glance the A2Z will be just right.










What I plan to do is find a local company that can do brazing. If I make the jig myself and take the whole lot in to be brazed then it shouldn't cost much at all.

I have to find some replacement M10 thread canti studs from somewhere (id like to have them just in case I change to cantis in future, or if I sell on the frame). I know they are available, for example the Scott Scale has removable M10 canti studs. Anyone know where to get them?

Also I need a small piece of suitable tubing for bracing the area. I have no idea where to get this? I would shape the ends with a file but realise machining is better, only I don't have a milling machine. Is there and easier soloution to brace the chainstay/seatstay?

Thanks in advance!


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Use an old brake rotor , notice in your photo how the brake rotor you have mocked up fills that space nicely . Cut up a brake rotor and braze the appropriatly sized piece between the seat and chain stays .


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

That could look cool. Have you got any pics of this that I could see?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

I dont have any pics. of that . I am sure that this has been done before , possibly find pics in a search here .


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## Linnaeus (May 17, 2009)

Any light gauge tubing will work fine for the seat stay brace. You'd probably be OK even without a brace, so I wouldn't put too much thought into it. Some 4130 tubing would be fine. I would just stop by a welding shop and ask for a small piece of scrap (or two, so you have a practice piece). As you said, you can file it for proper fitment - it's faster than setting up a milling machine to do the job anyway. 

If you're not in a rush I think a proper mount from Paragon Machine Works is worth it. They're only $6 and it will fit and look better. You can also use a file to properly fit the mount to the stay. 

The brazing can be easily done by any welding shop, or you can do it yourself with a small oxy/mapp torch set that you can buy at a hardware store. Just be aware that the oxygen tanks don't last long, so you should have everything properly prepped before you start. 

You can find the technical specifications for rear IS mount (all the measurements, etc) on the Hayes website, but it looks like it's down right now so I can't link you.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Cheers mate. 

I already ordered the A2Z adapter plate so I'll go with that and see how it fits after I modify it. I need to cut of the mounting flange and prep the edge for brazing. I'm not worried about the red paint as its going off to be shot blasted and re-sprayed (2-pack + laquer, White). is done. 

As for the bracing I was also thinking that its not really needed. My only concern is that I read a review a few years back on a steel Rock Lobster with disk's? It didn't have a brace and the mag said there was a strange vibration in the frame when the rear brake was applied. I prefer the idea of tubing for the brace (rather than a old rotor), or even better a nice CNC cut brace, kind like a webbing between the stays. I could get the Kona 'K' cut into it.  

Im not sure where to get tubing in the UK. I'll have a google soon. 

(PS: I presume most of the guys on this message board are US based?)


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Also, 

I really need to find some replacement M10 Canti studs. I've searched the web intensively but I cant find them. They're not needed for the build but I would like to have a pair incase I decide top run v-brakes in the future or sell on the frame. 

(I have found m6 and m8 canti studs but I really need M10. With an M10 thread in the frame mounts I can use the Hope hose guides pictured above - which I already have)


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## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

At local hardware stores in the US small diameter steel tubing is sold in rather short lengths. 12mm, I believe. I used it as seat stays for my son's balance bike. I would highly recommend adding the brace, especially since your frame was not designed for disc brakes. This means the tubing could have a wall thickness that is too thin for the braking forces. Add the brace to be safe.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I haven't seen a hardware store in years. Sadly this kind of small local business has died out in the UK in favour of the big chains who don't tend to carry those kind of things. I'll have a google and see if I can find a tubing supplier in the uk.


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## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

framebuilding.com
Ceeway is based in the UK. 
http://www.framebuilding.com/aboutus.htm
There is also a framebuilders list at the bottom of their home page.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Cheers,


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## Linnaeus (May 17, 2009)

If you find an old beater road bike in the garbage, you can just cut out a length of seat stay and use it as a brace.


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> I haven't seen a hardware store in years. Sadly this kind of small local business has died out in the UK in favour of the big chains who don't tend to carry those kind of things. I'll have a google and see if I can find a tubing supplier in the uk.


B&Q and Homebase both carry steel tube in a range from about 6mm to about 20mm. Mild steel but ideal for this kind of thing, as well as bridges and general fab/fixturing work. Almost every B&Q I've been in has a small selection.

If you're looking for a bigger range of 4130 try pfa metals

Cheers

Steven


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Thanks Steven that's a big help.

I found a US company who have the replacement M10 Canti Stud's:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR309Z00-Replacement+Cantilever+Stud.aspx?sc=FRGLUK&cc=GBP

Still haven't found any in the UK though....


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Steven. 

Its a shame you live so far from me (im down south) but maybe you could help with something. Regarding the brace: I had a cool idea to have a small peice - about an inch wide - of steel plate (3/4mm thick) between the seat and chain stays. What I would like is to have this machined out in the shape of the Kona 'K' as found on the headtube bage. Do you get the idea? Is that something you can do? 

cheers.


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Steven.
> 
> Its a shame you live so far from me (im down south) but maybe you could help with something. Regarding the brace: I had a cool idea to have a small peice - about an inch wide - of steel plate (3/4mm thick) between the seat and chain stays. What I would like is to have this machined out in the shape of the Kona 'K' as found on the headtube bage. Do you get the idea? Is that something you can do?
> 
> cheers.


Mike,

that's something I would normally get waterjet cut. probably quite expensive as a 1-off though. Most of the cost in that sort of thing is set-up costs, getting 50 done will be almost as cheap as getting 1 done. You could do it by hand but it's a pretty intricate design.

Cheers

Steven


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Anyone got a little piece of suitable tubing they could give me for a brace? Good for karma


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*If I lived in the UK...*

I would send you a huge box of suitable scraps, and call it good riddance.

But I don't think shipping scrap tubing across the pond is probably worth it.

Call Peter at Ceeway and see if he has an old mismatched seatstay or something he'll ship you for little/free. Betcha he's got lots of stuff like that sitting around.

-Walt



mikesnowdon said:


> Anyone got a little piece of suitable tubing they could give me for a brace? Good for karma


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Anyone got a little piece of suitable tubing they could give me for a brace? Good for karma


let me know your address and I'll send you some stuff that'll do the job.

Cheers

Steven


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Just PM'ed you Steven. Thanks


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

The A2Z mount arrived today so I placed the whole wheel/rotor/caliper assembly on the frame to se how it lines up with the seatstay. The rear brake is for a 140mm disk and Im still waiting for that to arrive in the post. So in the meantime I used the 160mm disk for the front brake. This basically means the caliper will be a little bit closer to the chainstay when I set it up for the proper size rotor. I wont start working on the mount until I have the 140mm rotor so I can be sure it all fits ok.

Looking at this mock-up though it seems the A2Z will be perfect once I cut off the mounting flange and shape it up to sit nice on the stay  Pics below, please let me know what you think guys.

Thanks in advance


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

A little update...

I remembered I had an old style 143mm Hope wavy rotor so I put that on the wheel and mounted the caliper. I used some electrical tape to tie the brake lever to the bar so the caliper would naturally stay in place. I then tweaked the position of the caliper to match the IS standard for the location of the bolt holes. (oddly the inside face of the dropout isnt in line with the mounting face on the caliper. Per the IS these two areas shouldbe in line. I checked the caliper and the pads are nicely centralised. Perhaps the Hope caliper is designed to run quite thick wahsers on the mount? I don't know.)

Having positioned the caliper I then set about modding the A2Z mount. Its a very tricky process and involved taking small amounts of material off at a time and constancy checking the fit every 5 mins or so. I had to file the area in 3 stages, each with a slightly shallower angle to match the taper of the satstay (the angle of the seatstay necessitates this). A really worrying process that involved several cig brakes to calm the nerves! Laughing Once I got into it I developed a technique for getting a good shape to the contact area. Its not perfect but its pretty good I think for a hand tool job.

A member over on the MTBR frame building forum is sending me some scraps of tubing for the brace. Having said that some on the frame building forum have told me its no really needed. Part of me wants to leave it to save weight but the other part of wants to hae it there for peace of mind. I'll probably have the brace but I'll make it as small as possible. Still not 100% decided though.










I don't think the mount can be brazed on now as I couldn't get such a perfect fir with the files I have (its pretty good though  ).

I would appreciate the expert opinions of those on this forum please.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I guess no comments on the mount is a good sign. I must have done a good job! 

Any advice on what type of welding is best for this?


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

Why aren't you just cutting a boss out of plate? $0.53 for just as good and less PITA. This makes no sence at all.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> Any advice on what type of welding is best for this?


For this job? Stick welding for sure. That way it can be really whacked out.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> A member over on the MTBR frame building forum is sending me some scraps of tubing for the brace.


I know for a fact that steel is available in the EU. WTF?


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> I don't think the mount can be brazed on now as I couldn't get such a perfect fir with the files I have (its pretty good though  ).


Huh? Brazing is what you do when the 20th century just won't do. I don't think you understand how strong and tolerant a really [email protected] brazed joint is.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> Looking at this mock-up though it seems the A2Z will be perfect once I cut off the mounting flange and shape it up to sit nice on the stay


Yeah. Almost as good as a piece of scrap plate with two holes in it. WTF?


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> As for the bracing I was also thinking that its not really needed. My only concern is that I read a review a few years back on a steel Rock Lobster with disk's? It didn't have a brace and the mag said there was a strange vibration in the frame when the rear brake was applied)


Dude? You rule?!?!? What could those guys be talking about? I'm willing to bet that those guys have no idea what they are talking about. If they rode faster, they would know better.


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

mikesnowdon said:


> I really need to find some replacement M10 Canti studs. I've searched the web intensively but I cant find them. They're not needed for the build but I would like to have a pair incase I decide top run v-brakes in the future or sell on the frame.


QBP# FS1354
QBP# FS1169

God?!?! Where did that come from?


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

In b4 threadlock...


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

*My appologies.*

It's been a few hours since I made that raft of posts.

I was a little drunk and carrying a bit of anger about an incident that was going down on this forum on Wednesday morning. I think that I was probably just making the crime fit the punnishment. My energy was entirely misplaced.

My tone was out of line here. This guy is an admitted noob. I could have made my points without being such a dic&. He's cool for giving it a go.


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## 18bikes (Jan 15, 2007)

wow, never thought i'd see it


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## RoyDean (Jul 2, 2007)

pvd said:


> I was a little drunk and carrying a bit of anger about an incident that was going down on this forum on Wednesday morning.


Dude, you take MTBR way too seriously. Maybe you should take a few months off [of mtbr].

Seriously.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

At the time I bought the A2Z adapter I didnt know that there were ready made mounts available from frame building suppliers. The A2Z adapter was already half made for me so I just needed to modify it a bit ready to be welded on. Admittedly I could have brought some steel plate and made one from scratch though.

PVD,

Thanks for the apology, no offence taken.

With brazing does the joint need to be as near perfect as possible? I ask because I would prefer a brazed joint but because I had to shape the contact area with files its not quite _perfect_. I would assume brazing flows so it would fill any gaps?


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> At the time I bought the A2Z adapter I didnt know that there were ready made mounts available from frame building suppliers. The A2Z adapter was already half made for me so I just needed to modify it a bit ready to be welded on. Admittedly I could have brought some steel plate and made one from scratch though.


Mike, I'll include a couple of tabs in case you balls up the one you have, I get these waterjet cut and have loads kicking about. Mostly ones that I've made an arse of when filing to fit.



mikesnowdon said:


> With brazing does the joint need to be as near perfect as possible? I ask because I would prefer a brazed joint but because I had to shape the contact area with files its not quite _perfect_. I would assume brazing flows so it would fill any gaps?


Judging form those pics, that'll braze just fine. Are you going to use silver or for this and the brace?

If you want to get it even closer, wrap your stay with some shop cloth and rub your disk tab against it. That'll get you closer to the profile of the stay.

Steven


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*Good on you.*

Personally, I think he made a lot of progress, *entirely without help*. I'd like to see more of this kind of stuff - instead of asking endless questions that are answered in the FAQ or elsewhere, or posting the latest crazy CAD suspension design, this guy went out and DID 90% of the work, and he did it well enough that it's going to work. Great stuff.

Thanks for your apology, PVD. It takes class to admit you're wrong.

-Walt



pvd said:


> It's been a few hours since I made that raft of posts.
> 
> I was a little drunk and carrying a bit of anger about an incident that was going down on this forum on Wednesday morning. I think that I was probably just making the crime fit the punnishment. My energy was entirely misplaced.
> 
> My tone was out of line here. This guy is an admitted noob. I could have made my points without being such a dic&. He's cool for giving it a go.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

shandcycles said:


> Mike, I'll include a couple of tabs in case you balls up the one you have, I get these waterjet cut and have loads kicking about. Mostly ones that I've made an arse of when filing to fit.
> 
> Judging form those pics, that'll braze just fine. Are you going to use silver or for this and the brace?
> 
> ...


Thanks Steven. If I'm ever up in sunny Scotland I'll drop by and take you out for a few shandy's mate :thumbsup:

I was originally going to give the brazing a go myself but Im a bit nervous about that as I've never done it. The guy on retrobike.co.uk (Andy R) who first suggested going DIY recommended a silver (842) solder from these guys. I'd also need some flux but I have no idea what type if any, that I would need. As for a torch, well I dont have one but its been suggested that a B&Q blow torch would do?

I searched for help guides on this kind of silver brazing but so far I haven't found anything for newbies. That's why I was going to get someone else to do it instead. I've asked a couple of local welding company's for quotes. If its not too expensive I'll go that way instead of DIY.

Good idea about using shop cloth to get a better fit. I was thinking along similar lines myself.

Another little issue with this frame is a few small dents on the seatstay where it appears someone has over tightened a front mech. I was going to get the frame powedercoated in white as a sort of tough undercoat. Then fill the dents with car body filler and re-spray with hammerite rattle can paint, Ive done this powdercoat + Hammerite re-spray before and it looked really great and was tough as nails. The powdercoat is quite plasticky in texture and resists stone chips really well (dosent chip) and the Hammerite sticks to anything giving a nice gloss and added protection. However, if I decide to go DIY with the brazing I might as well use the silver solder to fill the dents before getting the frame painted. Any advice on this dent repair please?

(Looking for advice on Silver brazing from a beginners point of view please).

Thanks to all for your efforts so far. You've been a great help and inspiration.

- Mike.


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

Brass/bronze brazing is what you want to use here. I'd get a junk rotor and brake to use a holding fixture. Tack the ends, top and bottom, with a really small hot flame keeping the flame mostly on the thick metal of the brace. Once the tacks cool a bit, so you don't remelt them and pull everything out of alignment, start brazing. The trick is keeping the heat isolated to where you want the brass/bronze to flow. 

Some of these folks will put huge fillets on the side of, but they're not necessary. Remember the thick chunk used for the boss is a huge heatsink compared to the thin-walled SS. Good luck.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Cheers.

When you say tack do you mean tack with a normal weld? The proceed with brazing? I ask because If I tack with braze wont it re-flow once I start brazing the rest of the area? 

On Brass or Bronze brazing; Doesn't that require a specialist torch (oxy/acet?) to get the work hot enough? The idea behind using silver is the lower melting temp which means I could get away with a cheap Mapgas blowtorch. I am a newbie so if I'm missing something obvious please let me know.  lol


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## dr.welby (Jan 6, 2004)

You may also find someone to weld or braze it outside of specialist welders - radiator repair guys often brass braze and some muffler shops can do good thinwall TIG welding.


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*Practice first*

Either pay someone to do the job (expect to pay $75-100 or so) or else get some practice on scrap first.

I will go on record as not being a fan of silver brazing disc tabs or canti bosses. I did a few that way when I first started and some of them have popped off or cracked over the years. If you lay enough brass on it, it might not look pretty, but it won't come off. Silver has to be done *right* or you're talking time-bomb.

That said, you're correct that silver can be done with mapp. Brass will probably (though I'm not positive) require more heat than a small MAPP torch can generate easily.

-Walt



mikesnowdon said:


> Cheers.
> 
> When you say tack do you mean tack with a normal weld? The proceed with brazing? I ask because If I tack with braze wont it re-flow once I start brazing the rest of the area?
> 
> On Brass or Bronze brazing; Doesn't that require a specialist torch (oxy/acet?) to get the work hot enough? The idea behind using silver is the lower melting temp which means I could get away with a cheap Mapgas blowtorch. I am a newbie so if I'm missing something obvious please let me know.  lol


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Thanks for the advice on Brazing. I'll have to give it careful consideration before deciding if I attempt it myself.

Meanwhile.....

Been working on the brace and Ive got a couple of options to choose from so far:

Option 1: (unfortunately I broke this one but it can be joined back together with the brazing)









Option 2:









Option 3: 









I like the first one as it doesn't have the bolt hole. It looks better, but they all look quite good I think so its a case of judging which will be most effective at strengthening the area. One option spreads the load to the dropout and chainstay, the other would seen to spread the load to one area about an inch from the dropout. From what I remember from school the forces are greater at the narrowest part so maybe the first 2 options are the strongest? I don't know. Aesthetically I prefer option 3.

Hoping for some feedback here to help me decide, even if its just to say which you like the look of best.

Cheers in advance.

- Mike 

PS: Prizes for guessing what the brace is made from


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

Don't use a mapp gas torch. Not because it doesn't get hot enough for brass/bronze, but because the tip orifice is going to be too big to do well. When I say use a small flame I mean also using a tip like a Victor size #0. Like *Walt* I don't like silver for this application unless you use something like a cadmium 45 silver which you shouldn't use because of the cadmium.

Don't worry about tacks and do them in brass/bronze as you will reflow them when you're going the whole boss. As far as the brace goes lots of folks have used those and they work well. Put it on any way you feel, it's all good.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I did a bit more work on the mount today and I've got it really good now I think. any gaps are well under 0.5mm now  I've trimmed off the last remaining bit of the mounting flange and faced* the mount front and back. (*lots of hard rubbing with a piece of sandpaper placed flat on the bench top)

Ive decided on the brace too.....










Where the brace meets the chainstay I'll have the braze built up quite thick so as to fill the small hole and build up the front edge. I'll then file it down to shape it in niceley.

Like this:










Now I'm all ready for the brazing!


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

*Need opinions on TIG welding this mount please!*

A guy from a local welding company has just got back to me about the mount. He told me he would prefer to tig weld it as its a "cleaner job". Is tig welding OK for this kind of thing or is there a concern over the thin wall tubing. Its not as thin as the tubing used on a Explosif but its not exactly chunky. '97 Cindercone frames weigh approx 4.5lb so the stays must be quite thin right?

No idea what he's going to charge me yet. I just sent him some pics to look over.


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## shiggy (Dec 19, 1998)

mikesnowdon said:


> A guy from a local welding company has just got back to me about the mount. He told me he would prefer to tig weld it as its a "cleaner job". Is tig welding OK for this kind of thing or is there a concern over the thin wall tubing. Its not as thin as the tubing used on a Explosif but its not exactly chunky. '97 Cindercone frames weigh approx 4.5lb so the stays must be quite thin right?
> 
> No idea what he's going to charge me yet. I just sent him some pics to look over.


TIG is great


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## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

This will help:

http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/Rear QR IS.pdf

http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/Rear Installation drawing 160mm.pdf


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## D.F.L. (Jan 3, 2004)

Tell the welder that it's .028 wall tube. If he's not nervous going in (or a really good welder) he'll look at the thickness of the tab and burn right through the tube.

Also, the weld is going to get contaminated when it passes over the existing braze. I guess you can have him stop on either side of the brazed area and you can fill it later with body filler for looks...

Instead, I suggest:

If your tab mitering is stellar (no gaps), then precisely mark the SS at the forward and rear edges of the tab.

remove the wheel and caliper.

clamp a flat plate to the inside face of the left D/O. Position your tab according to the marks on the SS and clamp it to the flat plate.

Braze.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Thanks for posting DFL.

Whats .028 in mm? 

To be honest I would much prefer brazed joint. I think it looks neater and its more in keeping with the rear end of the frame. When he gets back to me I'll see what he's opinions are and if he notices the area of the tab overlapping the brazed dropout as an issue. It will be a good indication of his knowledge and experience. 

I would say my mitring is pretty damn good for a beginner though . Any gaps are no more than 0.5mm.


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## Linnaeus (May 17, 2009)

I'll also vote for a braze. Much easier to redo at some later point if deemed necessary. You can do it yourself with a small oxy/mapp, for example:










You can also braze in your brace. The gaps you have will easily be filled by the brass. When brazing in the disc tab, I would strongly recommend you follow the IS specs, i.e. the disc tab is flush with the inside of the dropouts. This will allow for normal fitment of different calipers/hubs.


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## Schmitty (Sep 7, 2008)

51 posts for this? WTF? 

Get a disc tab
Miter/fit disc tab
braze jig tab
braze in xtra support.. probably a good idea.

Ceeway, henryjames, credit card. Actually you could probably get it all at Henryjames (our version of John Bull).

-Schmitty-


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

I do like the idea of doing the brazing myself but at around £50 for a mini brazing kit it would be cheaper to get it done for me.

Off to bed now, its 3:30AM here. G'night all.


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> I do like the idea of doing the brazing myself but at around £50 for a mini brazing kit it would be cheaper to get it done for me.
> 
> Off to bed now, its 3:30AM here. G'night all.


Mike, since you've got this far on your own and I'd like to see this put to bed without any damage to the frame, why don't you stick it in a box and get Parcel Force to send it up to me it'll cost less than £25 here and back. I'll not charge you for it but next time you're up here you can buy me a beer.

Steven


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Hi Steven. 

Wow thanks! I'll PM you now.


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Just a little question. 

Would filling the small dents with brass or bronze be OK for powdercoating after? I ask because I think I read somewhere that powdercoat only sticks to certain metals.

cheers

Mike.


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## shandcycles (Jan 15, 2008)

mikesnowdon said:


> Just a little question.
> 
> Would filling the small dents with brass or bronze be OK for powdercoating after? I ask because I think I read somewhere that powdercoat only sticks to certain metals.
> 
> ...


Much better to fill with silver. Less heat. Powdercoating will be fine.

Steven


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

i definitly think you need a brace. your seat stay was never intended for a disc brake load and you need to make up for that. you should also braze the joint as their is already brass in the dropout and welding the disc tab on could cause that to get soft and go crazy.

back in 2000 i sent my kona hei hei back to Ti sports who made the bike and they welded on a disc tab for $125, best money i ever spent


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## mikesnowdon (Sep 25, 2009)

Cheers.


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