# E Thirteen 9-46 Cassette!



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

I have the older 9-44 cassette. I use it with the Shimano XTR derailleur and a OneUp "traction" 32t chain ring. I have had it for about 11 months and it has been amazing. 

I would definitely be interested in the new version when it is available. Wider range than the Eagle and less money/weight!

If anyone has it I would love to hear how it is working out.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

Also anxious to get some intel.

I currently run a SRAM 10-42 on my marathoner bike. I want to reduce my hike-a-bike time on 100 milers, looks like this can only help.

See: e*thirteen's TRS Race cassette out-gears everyone - BikeRadar

Thanks in advance for info about gear jumps, shifting quality, etc.
_Matt


----------



## ButtersNZ (Jan 15, 2014)

I'm interested in this option too. In order to have the same climbing ease as the Eagle does on the 50t cog, this E*thirteen would need to be partnered with a smaller front ring, correct? Are there any drawbacks to having a smaller ring up front? Like, is there a difference in how the power reaches the ground and the effort required to get it there?


----------



## ButtersNZ (Jan 15, 2014)

Actually it looks like with a 28 ring up the front you get the same approx. ratio in the 46t cog as the eagle's 50t (with it's 30t CR). Slightly faster in the 9t cog too.

Surely the 28t vs 30t difference is negligible.


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

Just ordered my 9-46 cassette. I hope to see it before my Christmas vacation.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

kingchickenstrip said:


> Just ordered my 9-46 cassette. I hope to see it before my Christmas vacation.


Really? From where?
I tried to order last night, direct from e*13, and they say they are out of stock.
See: https://bythehive.com/collections/drivetrain/products/trs-race-cassette


Matt


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

It was strange I got and email saying the were available, went on the site and they were sold out. I sent an email and they quickly replied they could be ordered from your local bike shop or, on line store. They said Universal Cycles had them, and they did! 
Here is the link https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=85069


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

kingchickenstrip said:


> It was strange I got and email saying the were available, went on the site and they were sold out. I sent an email and they quickly replied they could be ordered from your local bike shop or, on line store. They said Universal Cycles had them, and they did!
> Here is the link https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=85069


Thank you!
Ordered!

MTBR Rules!
_Matt


----------



## superx421 (Sep 25, 2013)

Curious if anyone is planning to use this cassette with an XTR 11sp rear derailleur? If so, are you going to use the WolfTooth GoatLink? I'm running a 30T AbsoluteBlack front single ring and thinking of going to this rear cassette.


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

superx421 said:


> Curious if anyone is planning to use this cassette with an XTR 11sp rear derailleur? If so, are you going to use the WolfTooth GoatLink? I'm running a 30T AbsoluteBlack front single ring and thinking of going to this rear cassette.


I have been using the XTR 11 speed rear derailleur with the 9-44 E thirteen cassette with perfect shifting. Before that I was using the XTR 11 speed derailleur with a One Up 45 tooth cog and a XTR cassette with perfect shifting. 
I don't think it should be a problem.


----------



## heet (Oct 25, 2015)

I have a 9-46 trsr on a raceface next sl g4 cinch 32t with sram x01... Took it out for my first ride this am and it was just what I was looking for... Shorter and taller than the 30t 11-42 sram cassette, shifts great...


----------



## andersonsmog (Oct 21, 2015)

I wonder if I can just extend my 9-44 cassettte and just replace the big rings?


----------



## Rolling In Peace (Jul 20, 2012)

andersonsmog said:


> I wonder if I can just extend my 9-44 cassettte and just replace the big rings?


No you can't. I asked e13 about that already and they said that the parts are not interchangeable.


----------



## Tchotchkes (Dec 20, 2016)

GS or SGS on XTR derailleur with 30 or 32T up front?


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

I am using the GS XTR derailleur with a One UP 32t traction ring. 

Rode with it last night and worked great! Shifting was just as good as the 9-44 cassette. I had to do a small adjustment on the B screw and was ready to go!


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*A few pictures*

A few pictures I took during the install.
I had to find a way to keep the two pieces of the cassette together while I was locking it down.


----------



## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

kingchickenstrip said:


> A few pictures I took during the install.
> I had to find a way to keep the two pieces of the cassette together while I was locking it down.


Thanks! Very helpful.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

For those that are running full suspension, did you lengthen the chain as well?


----------



## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

I'm not concerned about the noise, but rather longevity/durability. Some of the comments at: How to Silence Your Creaking e*Thirteen Cassette - Pinkbike


----------



## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Like to check if this cassette can be run with XTR Di2? Running on 1X system and using the next SL G2 crank.

If this is doable, may want to pull the trigger for this setup.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

*Merry Christmas!*

Look what Santa brought!
... and yes, I had to be very specific when writing out my Christmas list...










_Matt


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

*Installed 9-46T... with vid! *

Installed my 9-46T cassette this evening.... a bit of a wrestling match, but I expect next time will go a bit quicker. Here are a few tips:
1. There is a small sleeve that sits inside the outter half of the cassete. Lube the crap out of that and set it back in place in that outter half. This piece confused me because I could only get the outter half to engage the inner half without this sleeve... for the first hour or so. I set a socket over the end of the XD hub and gave it a few taps -- I think that was just enough to get that sleeve to sit all the way down on the hub. After a couple more attempts, the outter piece locked in place. I don't know if it was the taps, or if I "held my mouth just right," but it locked in.
2. Once I put the wheel back in the bike and started running the chain up and down the gears I found I needed to let the derailleur limiter out a tad for the 9T cog. Of course, you also already know you need to run the B-screw in a bit. Running mine in a full turn was plenty (maybe 1-1/2 turns).
3. Interestingly, I had the chain with the 10-42 cassette set up with lots of slack, so I had plenty of room for the larger cassette. Of course, I'm putting a new chain on tomorrow morning before heading out. None gonna skimp at this point.

All's good!
Can't wait to test soon.


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Thanks for that info, MM.

I will be looking hard at this cassette when the time comes. I haven't seen a lot of ride reports or reviews. At this point, I'm adhering to the old cliche, "no news is good news", and assuming it works fine.


----------



## heet (Oct 25, 2015)

quick review :

I've got maybe 100 miles on mine with an X01 rear derailleur. Shifts as good or better than the x1 system it replaced. No drops, I can pedal backwards in the big cogs, not louder than the old x1. My lbs set it up so I can't comment on that, sorry.


----------



## sundace (Jan 22, 2009)

what front chainring do you use? how many teeth?


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

I replaced an M8000 11-42 Cassette and I9 Shimano Freehub with the e13 9-46 and I9 XD Driver. I lost 140 grams in the process.

The install is exactly as MegaMustang describes. The big cogs slide in easily and the lock ring snugs it down (interestingly, the instructions said grease the threads of the lock ring but the threads also had blue loctite). The second piece with the smaller cogs has an inner rubber sleeve that makes it difficult to to fully seat the second piece into the locking mechanism. After I realized that the sleeve is what was making it not fully seat, I took a mallet to the second piece and gently tapped it all around until it was fully seated and the locking pieces can engage to lock the second piece to the bigger cogs. A few turns of the b-tension screw, a new chain to account for the additional cogs and some cable adjustment mid-ride and it now shifts just as good as the XT it replaced. However, the feel of the shifts is not Shimano smooth. It's more akin to the solid clunking into gear you would get from SRAM (not necessarily a bad thing, just different).

This video was taken right after the install. It was a little slow shifting in some cogs but once the cable was adjusted properly it was no big deal while riding.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Definitely curious about how these are holding up. My clydeness makes me leery of the aluminum big cogs. Ive folded a few cassettes over. Not to mention they wear a bit quicker than steel. I'm hoping these things hold up.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

GuitsBoy said:


> Definitely curious about how these are holding up. My clydeness makes me leery of the aluminum big cogs. Ive forded a few cassettes over. Not to mention they wear a bit quicker than steel. I'm hoping these things hold up.


The aluminum piece is replaceable so you don't have to get a whole new cassette.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Widgeontrail said:


> The aluminum piece is replaceable so you don't have to get a whole new cassette.


Yes, I know, however the upper cluster alone costs more than my whole xg-1150 cassette, which will probably last forever.


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

GuitsBoy said:


> Yes, I know, however the upper cluster alone costs more than my whole xg-1150 cassette, which will probably last forever.


If cost and durability are factors, I would recommend going with the M8000 XT 11-46 cassette instead.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

flipnidaho said:


> If cost and durability are factors, I would recommend going with the M8000 XT 11-46 cassette instead.


Durability is a BIG factor. Cost is a lesser one. But losing the high end to a 11T is a deal breaker. I already have a 28T chainring, so I dont want to give any more up. Moving to the 9 would be nice since I'd gain on both ends.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

I've got the 9-46t on my bike and have done 22 miles / 3800 ft in 2 days of riding so far. Not easy to find as it was sold out when announced but I was able to pick one up on Ebay (new) for $349. My chain was only 7-8 months old so I figure I reuse it but it made weird clicking sounds so I didn't ride with it until I replaced the chain. Of course the clicking sounds went away and it shifts very smoothly. I've got a 29er and running full 11sp X1 drivetrain w/ 30t chainring. The shifts from 39-46 is way better than my buddy's XT cassette from 37-46. Also having 9t instead of 11t allows for a smaller chainring if needed. 

By the way, the Pinkbike article regarding e13 cassettes creaking is in regard to the old 9-42/9-44 which is a slightly different design than the 9-46. There is no such issue with the 9-46


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Widgeontrail said:


> The aluminum piece is replaceable so you don't have to get a whole new cassette.


That is true but I experimented with Absolute Black's 3 cog addition for 10 speed.

absoluteBLACK | Cassette Adapter 28-40

Did not last very long. It was way too fragile. If you want, I'll point you to a review I did a while back.

So even if they are "replaceable" if they wear way too quick, it'll be an expensive endeavor. I am running the 9-44 11 speed cassette and have several 100 miles on mine. It's awfully muddy here in Hawaii and it's been working great though the steel gear teeth do get a bit rusted here and there.


----------



## heet (Oct 25, 2015)

sundace said:


> what front chainring do you use? how many teeth?


32T raceface next sl.


----------



## Keithyk (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi guys, is there any back pedaling issue with 9-46 cassette where the chain will drop a few cogs like Shimano 11 speed cassette


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

Keithyk said:


> Hi guys, is there any back pedaling issue with 9-46 cassette where the chain will drop a few cogs like Shimano 11 speed cassette
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Some... I adjusted the B-screw so the jockey wheel and 46T gear are about 15mm apart. No drop unless I backpedal really fast (on the bike stand). Have not road/trail-tested yet.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

I've got it set up on a 28t chainring on a 29er gxp crank. The bike is 148 boost which should use 3mm offset chainring but i have plenty of tire/chain clearance and not running fat tires so i'm running a 6mm offset chainring so my chainline is 49-50mm (if i ran 32-34t, i'd have to run a 3mm offset chainring). Thus i can freely spin backwards at any gear since it's optimal (if tire clearance is not an issue). 
If you don't have boost, your likely running 49mm also which isn't neccessarily optimal but it is required to ensure tire clearance. Optimal is 46mm for non boost. 
If this is confusing, i'm sorry


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

I just found a 5 year old 15% off code and ordered on from Universal Cycles. VIP15 for 15% off $300. Plus free shipping and no tax! $296 shipped.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

Widgeontrail said:


> I just found a 5 year old 15% off code and ordered on from Universal Cycles. VIP15 for 15% off $300. Plus free shipping and no tax! $296 shipped.


Well done!


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

Widgeontrail said:


> I just found a 5 year old 15% off code and ordered on from Universal Cycles. VIP15 for 15% off $300. Plus free shipping and no tax! $296 shipped.


VIP15 still works as I just placed an order for the TRSR cassette (Orders of $300 or more get 15% off). In the Portland store they have ~80 cassettes still in stock per their website about an hour ago. Thanks for the code man.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Purdue22 said:


> VIP15 still works as I just placed an order for the TRSR cassette (Orders of $300 or more get 15% off). In the Portland store they have ~80 cassettes still in stock per their website about an hour ago. Thanks for the code man.


Cheers!


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Decided to roll the dice on one for $265. You can backorder it at AMain, then use coupon code CJAN25 for 25 bucks off. At that price, I figured it was worth a gamble, and I can always unload it without losing much if I decide it's not for me.

https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirteen-trs-race-11sp-cassette-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p543543?v=561063

Coupon code: CJAN25
Expires Jan 31, 2017


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

GuitsBoy said:


> Decided to roll the dice on one for $265. You can backorder it at AMain, then use coupon code CJAN25 for 25 bucks off. At that price, I figured it was worth a gamble, and I can always unload it without losing much if I decide it's not for me.
> 
> https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirteen-trs-race-11sp-cassette-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p543543?v=561063
> 
> ...


Damn! That's a hellva deal! Wish you posted this a few days ago before i pulled the trigger.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Widgeontrail said:


> Damn! That's a hellva deal! Wish you posted this a few days ago before i pulled the trigger.


Sorry man, but if youve got the time, you can check with the vendor you bought from, as well as youre credit card company, to see if they will honor a price adjustment. Otherwise you can always just return the item and buy from a-main. But who knows how long before it comes in stock, so you have to decide how much that's worth to you.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Right. I just looked at AMain.com. They're in CA and so am I, so they'd charge me sales tax. With tax it's only $10 less than I paid at Universal Cycles. Still a sweet deal. I might buy some to re-sell.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Got mine in the mail. I had a hellva time trying to lock in the second piece. I tried tapping it with a rubber mallet to no avail. I finally made press with an old 9mm quick release skewer and a socket. Once i pressed the pieces together with my makeshift press they locked in place easily. 

Mine is 306 grams with the lockring. Its only 50g heavier than the XG-1080 cassette it replaced. And the XD driver was 25g lighter than the shimano driver i was using. So cassette wise I'm pretty much a wash for the wieght. All the other parts I'm removing to go 1x11 are all gravy.


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

Received mine too but haven't installed yet. Can you post a picture of the tool you fashioned or explain the process a bit more?


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Purdue22 said:


> Received mine too but haven't installed yet. Can you post a picture of the tool you fashioned or explain the process a bit more?


I took an old 9mm rear wheel quick release skewer and ran it through the axle. Like the top picture in post #16 of this thread I put a socket wrench socket over the axle on the cassette side so i pressed up against the 9t cog. Then I snugged down the quick release. I heard an audible clang and I knew the piece was positioned correctly. Then I used a chain whip to tighten the outer cassette piece and lock it in place.


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

Thanks man.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

I wonder if your difficulty (and mine) was a result of tightening down the nut on the first half too tight.... thereby drawing in the center of the cassette so much that it is hard for the fingers on the second half to reach in.
I'm wiling to experiment with that next time I have it off, but not willing to experiment now that it is on.

_Matt


----------



## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I think this will be on my list of upgrades before spring gets here!!


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

Still haven't put my cassette on since I'm waiting to wear through my current cassette. Curious though as to what chainrings (brand and size) people are using and how they like the TRS Race so far? I'm currently using an absolute black 30T chainring on an XX1 10-42 FYI.


----------



## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

So I'm currently running a SRAM 10-42 with a RF 30t up front (on my Santa Cruz Hightower). I have no problems doing steep climbs with the SRAM 42. If I go with the E-Thirteen TRS Race 11 Speed Cassette (9-46), will I need to bump up to a 32t up front?


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

cycljunkie said:


> So I'm currently running a SRAM 10-42 with a RF 30t up front (on my Santa Cruz Hightower). I have no problems doing steep climbs with the SRAM 42. If I go with the E-Thirteen TRS Race 11 Speed Cassette (9-46), will I need to bump up to a 32t up front?


I'm in a similar boat. I have a 28T front ring, and even on the plus bike, traction is the limiting factor in climbing ability. I am planning on keeping the same ring, that way range is increased in both directions. I certainly dont need more high end once this 9t cog is in play, and while I dont *need* more low end, it may come in handy from time to time.

If you're happy with your current range, then why not leave the ring, that way the range is increased on both ends.


----------



## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> Decided to roll the dice on one for $265. You can backorder it at AMain, then use coupon code CJAN25 for 25 bucks off. At that price, I figured it was worth a gamble, and I can always unload it without losing much if I decide it's not for me.
> 
> https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirteen-trs-race-11sp-cassette-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p543543?v=561063
> 
> ...


Found this on Amain during random googling earlier and ordered before I saw this thread. I got a shipping notification about an hour later so for $265 shipped and that fast service from Amain I'm pleased to say the least.

Planning on swapping out my 10-42 on my Horsethief w/ X01 and a 30t ring. I'm pretty crappy at picking my lines still so traction is my probably my biggest limiting factor, but still there are enough times I've wished for just a little more range that I'm really looking forward to giving this a shot come spring.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

tgarson said:


> Found this on Amain during random googling earlier and ordered before I saw this thread. I got a shipping notification about an hour later so for $265 shipped and that fast service from Amain I'm pleased to say the least.
> 
> Planning on swapping out my 10-42 on my Horsethief w/ X01 and a 30t ring. I'm pretty crappy at picking my lines still so traction is my probably my biggest limiting factor, but still there are enough times I've wished for just a little more range that I'm really looking forward to giving this a shot come spring.


Just dropped down to $255 after coupon code, and theyre in stock now. I chatted up customer service and got a $10 store credit for the price difference. Mine also shipped today.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

Guitsboy, tgarson, are you are referring to the 9-44t? This thread is regarding the 9-46t which is a slightly different design and lighter than the old 9-44t.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

bmwzimmer said:


> Guitsboy, tgarson, are you are referring to the 9-44t? This thread is regarding the 9-46t which is a slightly different design and lighter than the old 9-44t.


I was referring to the 9-46. Its on sale at amain for 279, and theres a 25 off coupon that stacks. Ridiculous price for something thats selling at full MSRP everywhere else.


----------



## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

bmwzimmer said:


> Guitsboy, tgarson, are you are referring to the 9-44t? This thread is regarding the 9-46t which is a slightly different design and lighter than the old 9-44t.


Yes, 9-46. As others have said, they have it at 279 then you can use a coupon to take another $25 off with their coupons.

I've never even heard of Amain prior to today, but killer deal.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I received my TRSr 9-46 yesterday in the mail ferom AMain, for a net price of $255 after the coupon code. It weighed in at 307 grams, and replaced a GX xg-1150 cassette that weighed in at 408g. Installation was just as everyone else stated. The locktight made installing the lock ring surprisingly difficult to install. I checked, double checked, and triple checked to make sure I wasnt cross threaded, then just gave it some muscle at a slow pace, and it went on. The bushing for the steel cogs is very tight and needed a couple taps from a mallet, and then installation was a breeze. Seems pretty secure so far. The machining seems to be quite good.

Ive had two rides, and 25+ miles on it so far, and I have to say, Im quite happy with the new setup. I installed a new 28T absolute black oval chainring, and a new PC-X1 chain at the same time. The new ring does a real nice job of smoothing out torque when youre mashing up over lose sections, but you cant feel the ovality of it. If anything, it feels rounder than the round 28t ring it replaced.

The cassette shifts very well over the steel cogs. As expected, the aluminum cogs dont shift quite as well due to the larger ratio gaps, and the fact that aluminum holds the chain for a bit before it snaps into place. Thats not to say the cassette shifts slowly in the low 3 gears, it actually may shift faster than the SRAM cassette did, but it sure is loud. Shifting under moderate load is a bit more touchy than on the steel sram cassette, but that just means you have to be a bit more careful about not shifting under load. These slight issues may subside as the cogs wear in and smoothen out a bit. 

The ratios on this thing are great. It took a couple miles to get used to the new wider spacing between gears, but now that I'm used to it, I love it, especially coupled to the oval ring. It makes an ever so slightly harder gear a little easier to push. The added low end was certainly a welcome benefit while making the last few climbs of my second ride yesterday, when I had very little legs left. But the winner for me was being able to pedal down long straightaways and downhill fireroads. I had grown awfully lazy, letting gravity take over before spinning out. Now I can pedal without worry about spinning out, since on anything choppier than the smoothest of paved roads, Ill run out of testicular fortitude well before I run out of gear.

Anyway, seems like a quality piece, and so far, I'm very pleased with it. Its light, appears to be well machined and of quality materials, and it seems like a sturdy design. Only time will tell if it will survive my clydeful mashing ways, but my initial testing didnt give me any cause for concern. It may not be quite so attractive at full $350 MSRP, but if you can snag one at $255 its a solid choice. Considering how much SRAM charges for their higher end machined cassettes, without any additional range, the TRSr is a bargain.

UPDATE:
After another few rides, with roughly 70 miles on the cassette, shifting has greatly improved. I suspect the teeth are simply wearing in. It still doesn't like to shift under moderate load, but even that has slightly improved, though I'm adjusting my riding style to be extra mindful of avoiding these situations. I'm really digging the gear spacing though, not that it feels normal to me again.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm currently on a 28T up front with a standard XX1 rear cassette that has been One Upped, so I guess it's an 11-44. My bike is a 29er.

I used to utilize and need the 28T quite a bit but for some reason when I get in to that low of a gear now I find it to just to be really low, like too low. The other issue I have is I have always found my gears to be too close together. I've always desired larger gaps between gears.

I have the TRS Race on the way as well as a replacement 30T Oval front.

I like that I will still have an 11 speed but it's over a longer range. First gear will only be slightly higher than before, but then all gaps will be more spaced out partly because of the TRS but also because of the new 30T.

Don't know when I'd ever top this thing out, maybe on a bike trip of some sort?

Should be a solid set up and I'm eager to try it out.


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

Thanks for the reply. Sounds a bit like where I was at; stock my bike was xx1 10-42 with a 28t and in the beginning I needed my granny gear a lot. I then swapped to a 30t AB oval after I got stronger and it was/is too big of a jump with the xx1 for me here/the trails I ride. I was going to drop to a 28t oval but now I have the TRS race I am going to stay with the 30t oval and hope everything works out for my climbing with these ratios...


----------



## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Thanks for feedback. It sounds too good pass up. Trigger pulled at AMain.....note that coupon expires on the 31st!

I've been happy with the longevity of the Sram 1195. It still has some life, but I can't pass up the deal. I won't have the patience and will be installing it upon arrival. I need the climbing gears for mud season.....which also happens to be out-o-shape season.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Big fan. Works great when set up correctly. I love the wider spacing.
Shifting is ever so slightly slower that the XX1 cassette I removed. Like a 1/4 rotation slower to change gears. Everything is new though so it might take time to break in.


----------



## Swordzkof (Sep 27, 2015)

Wow, this thing is the real deal. Installation was easy. You'll want to replace your chain at the same time. The PC-1130 is just the right length straight out of the box.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Got about 30 miles on mine so far. I did have one mis-shift while trying to shift into the 46t cog on a steep, rocky hill under load. That was the only setback and it may be just an adjustment as my whole drive train is new. And shifting under load is no good.

Other than that it was perfect and I loved it. The range is awesome!


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

When I fist got mine on I was getting several missed shifts. I took it to a trusted bike mechanic and he wasn't happy with it either even after adjusting it. I called E13 Tech support and the guy on the line told the my mechanic right away to adjust the distance between the chain ring and the rear derailler and the low gear down to 3-6mm (B adjustment?). Well it was sitting at more than that. Once this was adjusted it shifted like a dream right away.

Now I did drop one chain afterwards but I blame it on operator error.

I really like the spacing of the gears (even though I never touch the 2-3 fastest gears on my local trails). The spacing is more appropriate for me. When I shift, the change seems just right where with my previous set up it always seemed too small of a change for my needs.

I'm glad I have this solution instead of Eagle with the 12 speed. More gear range, larger jumps between gears, less expensive, more common chains, less weight on the rear wheel.

My good friend just bought a new SC with Eagle and the chain broke second time out. Not sure if the 12 speed chains are weaker or something?


----------



## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

Suns_PSD said:


> Not sure if the 12 speed chains are weaker or something?


Almost by definition. There is a limited amount of space on the driver body so the more cogs on the rear cassette the thinner and more tightly spaced they have to be. Correspondingly, the chains get thinner as well.

You can try to overcome the inherent drawbacks with clever design and more exotic materials but quite literally, you eventually hit a breaking point.


----------



## Swordzkof (Sep 27, 2015)

Suns_PSD said:


> ...adjust the distance between the chain ring and the rear derailler and the low gear down to 3-6mm (B adjustment?). Well it was sitting at more than that. Once this was adjusted it shifted like a dream right away.


After installing mine the shifting felt "clunky" as well. Got out the metric ruler, set the low gear/derailleur distance to SRAM's recommended 6mm and bam, buttery smooth shifting.

e*thirteen really hit a home run with this cassette.


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

Swordzkof said:


> Wow, this thing is the real deal. Installation was easy. You'll want to replace your chain at the same time. The PC-1130 is just the right length straight out of the box.


Seems that PC-1130 is spec'd for SRAM road components. Is it compatible with SRAM's off road components and the e13 9-46 cassette? I do notice that PC-1130 is only seven grams heavier than the PC-XX1 chain but much much cheaper. I sort of have a spare PC-1170 and wondering if I could use that when I install the e13 9-46 cassette, instead of buying a new PC-XX1 chain. Thanks.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Pegleg81 said:


> Seems that PC-1130 is spec'd for SRAM road components. Is it compatible with SRAM's off road components and the e13 9-46 cassette? I do notice that PC-1130 is only seven grams heavier than the PC-XX1 chain but much much cheaper. I sort of have a spare PC-1170 and wondering if I could use that when I install the e13 9-46 cassette, instead of buying a new PC-XX1 chain. Thanks.


The pc1130 is used in some OEM GX builds. It works fine with MTB components. But its slightly shorter, which is probably why the weight is so close. For my money, the PC-X1 is the best bang for the buck, hands down. The hollow pins dont shave enough weight to justify the expense. The 1170 will probably work, but I'd just spend the 20 bucks on an x1 and not worry about compatibility.


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

GuitsBoy said:


> The pc1130 is used in some OEM GX builds. It works fine with MTB components. But its slightly shorter, which is probably why the weight is so close. For my money, the PC-X1 is the best bang for the buck, hands down. The hollow pins dont shave enough weight to justify the expense. The 1170 will probably work, but I'd just spend the 20 bucks on an x1 and not worry about compatibility.


Thanks for the info!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

Pegleg81 said:


> I sort of have a spare PC-1170 and wondering if I could use that when I install the e13 9-46 cassette, instead of buying a new PC-XX1 chain. Thanks.


I have a pc-1170 on mine and so far it has worked great. If you want to buy the pc-x1 then go for it, but if you already have a spare 1170 then I don't see the need to buy a new chain.

In terms of general impressions of the cassette for this thread, I've only got a few rides on mine but so far I've been impressed. I have it on a x01 salsa horsethief with a 30T up front and the 46T has been great on punchy climbs. Cadence gap hasn't been nearly as bad as I thought, seems to have a good sweet spot of usable gears. I can't imagine I'll get much use of the 9T though. Only time I've dropped into it was on some long descents just to try it, but 99% of the time I'm content with just coasting at those speeds.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

tgarson said:


> I can't imagine I'll get much use of the 9T though. Only time I've dropped into it was on some long descents just to try it, but 99% of the time I'm content with just coasting at those speeds.


Then switch to a 28t chainring and climb up walls.


----------



## Shovi (Jan 10, 2016)

Hi just installed the trsr cassette on my sc nomad 
Installation was as everyone described here 
Shifting is pretty good actually 
It's with an pcxx1 chain on a xx1 groupset 
Unfortunately I have a weird creaking noise when I'm on the


----------



## Shovi (Jan 10, 2016)

Sorry 
On the lower part of the cassette under hard acceleration did anyone have this creaking also ????
It's kinda sacks 
Thx


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Shovi said:


> did anyone have this creaking also ????


Youre sure this is the 9-46 TRSr cassette? I believe earlier versions of the 9-44 TRS+ had an issue that required a slight design tweak to eliminate the creaking. That design was baked into the 9-46 cassette. Mine doesnt creak at all.

I guess you could try removing it and greasing everything up. Or contact e13 to see what they suggest.


----------



## Shovi (Jan 10, 2016)

Hi 
Yes I'm sure it's the 9-46 trsr I put a lot of grease everywhere 
Still creaking!!!!


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

Shovi said:


> Hi
> Yes I'm sure it's the 9-46 trsr I put a lot of grease everywhere
> Still creaking!!!!


You sure you completely tightened it? I've read a few post that people thought they had it tight and when they rechecked it wasn't.

I'd take it completely apart and then put it back together.


----------



## Shovi (Jan 10, 2016)

You sure you completely tightened it? I've read a few post that people thought they had it tight and when they rechecked it wasn't.

I'd take it completely apart and then put it back together.

Just did it again still creaking the same annoying sound 
Switched to the 10-42 xx1 casette and the creaking just gone ):


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Shovi said:


> Sorry
> On the lower part of the cassette under hard acceleration did anyone have this creaking also ????
> It's kinda sacks
> Thx


Aloha Shovi,

Did you try contacting E*Thirteen?

I had GREAT customer support from them when I was trying to solve a chainline issue with one of their 9-44 cassettes. Charlie answered me over a weekend. Try contacting them. They were super helpful. I'll include Charlie's email below as well.

======================================
Charlie Schneider

[email protected]
The Hive . 1445 Technology Ln. Suite A9 . Petaluma, CA 94954
+1.888.298.2061

=======================================


----------



## Shovi (Jan 10, 2016)

Thank you for the info I will contact them now and will write here the conclusions 
And answers 
Cheers


----------



## Swordzkof (Sep 27, 2015)

Pegleg81 said:


> Seems that PC-1130 is spec'd for SRAM road components. Is it compatible with SRAM's off road components and the e13 9-46 cassette? I do notice that PC-1130 is only seven grams heavier than the PC-XX1 chain but much much cheaper. I sort of have a spare PC-1170 and wondering if I could use that when I install the e13 9-46 cassette, instead of buying a new PC-XX1 chain. Thanks.


In the name of sience I did a test last night using PC-1130, PC-X1 and PC-XX1 chains.

The PC-1130 appears to be one link too short out of the box. On the 46t cog, while back peddeling, the chain would drop back down to the next gear. No issues at all with the PC-X1 or PC-XX1.


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

Thinking about biting and getting one of these, can I use this with a X1 11 spd rear derailleur out of the box? New slightly longer chain obviously in order too...


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

backinmysaddle said:


> Thinking about biting and getting one of these, can I use this with a X1 11 spd rear derailleur out of the box? New slightly longer chain obviously in order too...


It should. Works fine with my GX derailleur. Might need a couple turns of the b limit screw though.


----------



## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Never can go wrong with e13 stuff. Intelligent tough design, good looks and awesome customer support. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## StumpyElite2010 (Feb 3, 2011)

Did anyone using the KMC X11SL chain with the 9-46 ?
I have a Sram XX1 R.D. and 28T XX1 chain wheel/spider and the KMC makes grinding noises when on the large 3-4 cogs.
No issues with Sram XX1 chain at all...


----------



## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Is the XX1 chain brand new? Is the KMC? Could be that if the XX1 chain is used/broken in that it flexes a little more easily from side to side preventing rubbing.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Got on this thread too late for the great price at AMain. Searching for a good price, it looks like AMain still has the best price. It's $284.99 after $30 coupon code. Not as good as the $265, but still the best price available right now. COUPON CODE CFEB173


----------



## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

Just put in an order for one from AMain. The cassette is listed for 299.99 and the coupon code only applies to orders over 300 so I threw in a cliff bar for 1.25 and it was good, with free shipping too. Total was $271. Now I just need the snow to melt away. I'm going to put this cassette to some good use for spring riding!

I will be using this with an XTR 9000 shifter and rear derailleur (med. cage or "gs"). Anybody find you need to use a goatlink to make this work optimally? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## superx421 (Sep 25, 2013)

Silent Drone said:


> Just put in an order for one from AMain. The cassette is listed for 299.99 and the coupon code only applies to orders over 300 so I threw in a cliff bar for 1.25 and it was good, with free shipping too. Total was $271. Now I just need the snow to melt away. I'm going to put this cassette to some good use for spring riding!
> 
> I will be using this with an XTR 9000 shifter and rear derailleur (med. cage or "gs"). Anybody find you need to use a goatlink to make this work optimally?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is the exact same setup I am going to use but I went ahead and purchased the goat link. Unfortunately I haven't installed any of it yet so I can't really comment if you need the goat link or not...I'll chime in later as to how mine works with the goat link installed.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

My XTR GS Midcage Deraileur(no goatlink) and Shimano 901 chain works fine, smooth, with this cassette on my Ibis Mojo 3.


----------



## Fuel53 (Nov 1, 2006)

Anyone using GX drivetrain with this? Any issues?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

GX derailleur and X01 shifter works beautifully. Just put 28 miles on it today, and shifts very well. The aluminum cogs dont shift quite as good, but the steel shifts as good as sram or better. No complaints, only enjoyment here.


----------



## Fuel53 (Nov 1, 2006)

GuitsBoy said:


> GX derailleur and X01 shifter works beautifully. Just put 28 miles on it today, and shifts very well. The aluminum cogs dont shift quite as good, but the steel shifts as good as sram or better. No complaints, only enjoyment here.


Thanks. I think that's all I needed to convince me of the next upgrade!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jamas1395 (Jun 27, 2009)

The E*Thirteen 9/44 did so good last year I put the 9/46 on my race bike again this year. 
I raced a few hundred miles and even did an 18 hour solo race on the 9/44 and it was very reliable.

The 9/46 TRS race cassette is super light and shifts a little better than the TRS. 
Just a word of advice; make sure you check the chain length especially on a FS. I thought I had enough length but on a G out it was too short and caused some problems so I put on a new chain with the proper length. Everything is working great 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

Wow. That was fast for free shipping. Ordered mine late on Friday and it was on my desk Tuesday morning. I read the goatlink webpage and there is no mention of using the GL with a 9-46. There is a note for the 9-44 saying it's Not Optimized. So I'm going to just try it without the GL and we'll see how it goes. I'm in no rush to mount this because there is still snow where I live. But hopefully I will get to do some riding in early April. I'll post up a report once I've tried it out. For now I'll say that it looks well made and it sure is light! Pics....



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

Just installed mine. What worked for me was using a mallet to tap the plastic bushing a few times before putting on the second piece. My QR was too short with the end caps I had and it seemed like that tapping the bushing seemed to work better for me than tapping the second piece.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Swordzkof (Sep 27, 2015)

Fuel53 said:


> Anyone using GX drivetrain with this? Any issues?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Using GX with the TRS on two bikes, no issues.

GX + TRS 9/46 = Eagle for 1/3rd the cost.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

following - probably be making this purchase soon. Cheapest I can find it is $299 from Amain.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

jdaigneault said:


> following - probably be making this purchase soon. Cheapest I can find it is $299 from Amain.


You need to expand your coupon-fu skills. Use CMAR255 for 25 off, bringing it to 274.99.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)




----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

GuitsBoy said:


> You need to expand your coupon-fu skills. Use CMAR255 for 25 off, bringing it to 274.99.


I will try that, thank you!


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Any reviews on use with Shimano 11sp shifter and derailleur


----------



## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jsalas2 said:


> Any reviews on use with Shimano 11sp shifter and derailleur


There's a couple, read the thread.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks, found them


----------



## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

I installed mine last night and got a good ride on it today. Here's my review:

Set up: Shimano XTR M9000 shifter and rear derailluer (the medium cage or "GS" type), Shimano XTR M901 chain with the SRAM power lock link, and SRAM XX1 carbon crankset (BB30) with 28T ring. I am running this on a Niner Air 9 rdo hardtail with Nox Farlows wheels built on I9 Torch hubs.

Installation: super easy. I moved from XTR with the 11-40 cassettes to this e13. The only thing that slowed me down was removing the shimano freehub so I could replace it with the SRAM XD driver. The shimano wouldn't come off without some coaxing. Once that was accomplished, installing the e13 was easy. I was expecting to have to tap or press the smaller cogs into place like some have reported but that wasn't the case. It just slid right on. Locking everything down was simple. Also, to my surprise, my chain was long enough to accommodate the larger cog some play left in the derailleur, so I left the old chain on (it's relatively new still). I turned the b-screw in a turn and a half, and tightened the cable tension just a little, and everything was dialed in. 

Ride impressions/shifting: overall I'm very happy with the functioning of this cassette and the increase in range that it delivers. Since I didn't change the front ring, my moving from the 11-40 to this is like gaining two high end cogs and one bail-out gear, and I was totally loving that extra range on the trail today. I knew this would be welcome, but even so I was surprised how much that extra range made a difference. Last season I would just put up with the struggle of not having a low enough low and not having a high enough high, thinking that's just the way it has to be. But no more! I won't ever go back to that measly 363% range of the XTR 11-40. When I purchased this e13 I was a little concerned that I might not like the spacing (jumps of 20% in some cases) to because it is so spread out, but I found this concern to be unwarranted. In terms of cadence, or power delivery, the gaps are not too large, for me anyway. They actually felt quite natural with the type of riding that I did today (hilly and rocky). But of course, I did notice the spacing when it comes to comparing the shifting performance on this cassette to the tightly-spaced 11-40 cassette. Because of the gaps, the e13 simply did not shift as quickly or as well under load as the XTR 11-40 cassette did. It takes a little more of the crank revolution before the chain moves up, especially in the bigger cogs. But I was expecting this and was able to quickly adapt to it without any drama. I don't consider it to be a defect and it's not S problem for what I am looking to do on this bike. 

TL;DR: I'm very happy with this cassette. It is an excellent product that shifts well and provides better range than SRAM Eagle for a fraction of the cost. What's not to love?!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Great review, thanks.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

MegaMustang said:


> I wonder if your difficulty (and mine) was a result of tightening down the nut on the first half too tight.... thereby drawing in the center of the cassette so much that it is hard for the fingers on the second half to reach in.
> I'm wiling to experiment with that next time I have it off, but not willing to experiment now that it is on.
> 
> _Matt


I believe me theory above is correct.

I removed my e*13 from my wheel and installed it on a newly-built wheel with Hope hub (2nd chain whip required for removal - I bought a 2nd at a swap meet recently for $5, knowing this task was on my to do list). I did have that nut down pretty hard. There was a good bit of resistance unscrewing it, mostly from that sticky thread lock that came on the nut originally. I cleaned up all the parts and installed on the new hub (with fresh blue Loctite on the nut). It went on smoother and I didn't cinch it down as tight. As I described in an earlier post, I set a 21mm socket over the end of 9T cog and gave that outter half of the cassette a couple gentle taps to more fully seat it in the unlock position. With a whip, locked it into position, first try, super simple! :thumbsup:

BTW, I did the R&R with the wheel sitting in a Willworks bike stand. It holds the wheel vertically, while I'm placing the cassette on, tightening the nut, tapping the outter piece into place, etc. Simplified things a lot!

Bottom Line: I believe over-tightening that lock nut on the bigger/inner half of the cassette draws the center of that piece inward too far, making install of the smaller/outter half more difficult.

Enjoy!
_Matt


----------



## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

MegaMustang said:


> I believe me theory above is correct.
> 
> I removed my e*13 from my wheel and installed it on a newly-built wheel with Hope hub (2nd chain whip required for removal - I bought a 2nd at a swap meet recently for $5, knowing this task was on my to do list). I did have that nut down pretty hard. There was a good bit of resistance unscrewing it, mostly from that sticky thread lock that came on the nut originally. I cleaned up all the parts and installed on the new hub (with fresh blue Loctite on the nut). It went on smoother and I didn't cinch it down as tight. As I described in an earlier post, I set a 21mm socket over the end of 9T cog and gave that outter half of the cassette a couple gentle taps to more fully seat it in the unlock position. With a whip, locked it into position, first try, super simple! :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


How tight did you make it. Always tighten mine 45degrees past snug and never an issue. Installs second half fine and never loosens and comes off when i need it. That cassette rocks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

piperpilot964 said:


> How tight did you make it. Always tighten mine 45degrees past snug and never an issue. Installs second half fine and never loosens and comes off when i need it. That cassette rocks!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


"Tight" is so subjective... But yeah, sounds like I tightened about same as you (this time).

_Matt


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

GuitsBoy said:


> You need to expand your coupon-fu skills. Use CMAR255 for 25 off, bringing it to 274.99.


Thanks for sharing that, I had been contemplating for a while, sort of out of shape from a terrible winter and got slaughtered on my 28t front 10-42 SRAM setup on some steeps in SoCal a couple of weeks ago. Need more granny for sure this year...

BTW- got a free St Patrick's Day shirt from Amain too


----------



## Peddlin' Fool (Jul 22, 2013)

*TRSr 9 - 46T 11 SPEED CASSETTE + Shimano XTR shifter /derailleur*



jsalas2 said:


> Any reviews on use with Shimano 11sp shifter and derailleur


Fits like a glove,








shifts as well as the XT 11 - 42 it replaced..,









& Weighs 25 grams less!


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

I received my 9-46 from Amain yesterday and had an installation issue that seems to be the result of manufacturing tolerances being off... wondering if anyone has seen this?

I install the large cluster and torque that down, no problems there. Then when I place the smaller cluster on top the three tabs fit into the larger cluster but the dont drop down enough to be able to turn and lock the smaller cluster. The first three times I tried to use a whip to lock the smaller cluster in place it would rock a bit and then 2 or the three tabs would lock and then 3rd one would be above the larger cluster (meaning the smaller cluster cogs were off kilter. I undid the thing and tried repeatedly, even bringing in a second pair of hands specifically to keep the smaller cluster cogs exactly parallel to the larger cluster. When we kept them aligned, the smaller cluster couldnt be turned to lock into place, the three tabs where all hitting the larger cluster instead of sliding into the locked position. We tried again and again, and then removed the large cluster and tried with the two piece on a workbench. There is clearly contact and no way in the world I can get the piece to slide together.

Anyone seen this? Going to call Amain and see what they suggest as well but thought I would check here.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

backinmysaddle said:


> I received my 9-46 from Amain yesterday and had an installation issue that seems to be the result of manufacturing tolerances being off... wondering if anyone has seen this?
> 
> I install the large cluster and torque that down, no problems there. Then when I place the smaller cluster on top the three tabs fit into the larger cluster but the dont drop down enough to be able to turn and lock the smaller cluster. The first three times I tried to use a whip to lock the smaller cluster in place it would rock a bit and then 2 or the three tabs would lock and then 3rd one would be above the larger cluster (meaning the smaller cluster cogs were off kilter. I undid the thing and tried repeatedly, even bringing in a second pair of hands specifically to keep the smaller cluster cogs exactly parallel to the larger cluster. When we kept them aligned, the smaller cluster couldnt be turned to lock into place, the three tabs where all hitting the larger cluster instead of sliding into the locked position. We tried again and again, and then removed the large cluster and tried with the two piece on a workbench. There is clearly contact and no way in the world I can get the piece to slide together.
> 
> Anyone seen this? Going to call Amain and see what they suggest as well but thought I would check here.


Sounds like you haven't read this thread. There's 2 or 3 suggestions here for the install. I used an old QR skewer and a socket to make press like a headset press. Others have suggested that the first part is too tight and pulls the piece to far down. Others use a mallet.


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

Widgeontrail said:


> Sounds like you haven't read this thread. There's 2 or 3 suggestions here for the install. I used an old QR skewer and a socket to make press like a headset press. Others have suggested that the first part is too tight and pulls the piece to far down. Others use a mallet.


I had seen some reports, this just seemed much worse, especially give it wont engage even when the large cluster isnt even yet installed (so not an overtightening issue). I didnt see your quick release trick, that sounds like it may just work and so I will give that a try.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Give it a little tap with a rubber mallet and a socket on the smallest cassette. That's what I did with my last 9-46. I have no problem with the first 2 cassettes though.


----------



## kingchickenstrip (May 29, 2013)

*C clamp*



backinmysaddle said:


> I received my 9-46 from Amain yesterday and had an installation issue that seems to be the result of manufacturing tolerances being off... wondering if anyone has seen this?
> 
> I install the large cluster and torque that down, no problems there. Then when I place the smaller cluster on top the three tabs fit into the larger cluster but the dont drop down enough to be able to turn and lock the smaller cluster. The first three times I tried to use a whip to lock the smaller cluster in place it would rock a bit and then 2 or the three tabs would lock and then 3rd one would be above the larger cluster (meaning the smaller cluster cogs were off kilter. I undid the thing and tried repeatedly, even bringing in a second pair of hands specifically to keep the smaller cluster cogs exactly parallel to the larger cluster. When we kept them aligned, the smaller cluster couldnt be turned to lock into place, the three tabs where all hitting the larger cluster instead of sliding into the locked position. We tried again and again, and then removed the large cluster and tried with the two piece on a workbench. There is clearly contact and no way in the world I can get the piece to slide together.
> 
> Anyone seen this? Going to call Amain and see what they suggest as well but thought I would check here.


I used a large C clamp and socket on the small cog. SLOWLY tighten till the tabs line up and then it should easily tun and lock.


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

ckspeed said:


> Give it a little tap with a rubber mallet and a socket on the smallest cassette. That's what I did with my last 9-46. I have no problem with the first 2 cassettes though.


That worked, damn, more of a tap, took a couple tries to get it sufficiently on. Success!


----------



## Peddlin' Fool (Jul 22, 2013)

kingchickenstrip said:


> I used a large C clamp.


This is the right attitude.

"...oh yes, I will be rockin this 9-46T"

I wish I woulda seen your method before my challenge started!

While the excessive effort necessary to install the 9-46 is a PITA, the reward is big.


----------



## Fuel53 (Nov 1, 2006)

kingchickenstrip said:


> I used a large C clamp and socket on the small cog. SLOWLY tighten till the tabs line up and then it should easily tun and lock.


This picture needs to be in the directions. Success! Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Sounds like you figured it out, but appreciate posting the issues. My buddy was about to post the same concerns, but a little bit of reading and he is squared away. Thanks.


----------



## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Lots of good info helped make my install painless. Thanks!


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

Peddlin' Fool said:


> shifts as well as the XT 11 - 42 it replaced..,
> 
> View attachment 1126833
> 
> ...


Doesn't it weight about *125* grams less (not just 25 grams)?

Good to hear too it shifts as well as the Shimano cassette. Very tempting.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Mine really seems to have broken in and is shifting like butter now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

If you have a reasonably new 11spd, and are contemplating going to Eagle, I would just buy one of these. I have a few more rides in and can say the increased range is much enjoyed and the shifting is as smooth as what it replaced. Great upgrade for anyone on SRAM 11spd.


----------



## jvaliensi (Feb 6, 2011)

Hi there,
I set up my Yeti SB66 with the 9-46 and a 32T front ring. I'm using 26" wheels, XTR crankset, and XT derailleur and shifters. The cassette weighed 290g which was the same as the XX1 10-44 I had. No adjustments were needed to the shifters or derailleur and the chain length was good. (I was using 30 chainring with the 10-44, the 44 is One up)
It shifter perfectly. I liked having the 9-tooth, I was pedaling sections I used to spin-out on.
I like the way it went together too.
Nice product, so far seems like a good investment.


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

MegaMustang said:


> "Tight" is so subjective... But yeah, sounds like I tightened about same as you (this time).
> 
> _Matt


What are you running on the front for the 50 miler? I recently put on a 30t absolute black oval for this ride with this cassette. I'll probably put the 32t direct mount back on after the fifty miler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

*First 9-46T carnage?*

I've been around long enough to know none of this stuff is going to last forever.
Anyway, check out the pics:

















I'm not sure when or how it happened, I just know I couldn't keep the chain in the lowest two gears. Not till the end of the ride did I discover that I had somehow bent the 46T ring to a point it overlapped the 39T ring.

I didn't hit anything. I figure this occurred by downshifting or upshifting under heavy load, so the chain line created a diagonal/side load on the ring. Any other theories?

Now, back to my opening statement -- I know this stuff happens, I'm not mad -- *I'm just curious about other theories of how this occurred during a ride. Your thoughts?*

Also, I have not yet contacted e*thirteen or Universal Cycles. I'll do that today, and I'll let you all know how it turned out. I think all I need is the inner three ring section replaced <<shrug>>.

Anyway, I put the stocker SRAM XG-1195 (10-42T) back on yesterday and sure did notice not having those extra 4 teeth.

Happy Thursday!
_Matt E.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

While I haven't tacoed my e*13 cassette yet, I've done this to a bunch of other cassettes, even a steel sram xg-1150. I'm a big guy with big traction, so I just assume its par for the course. Eventually the big cog is going to fold over. I know Ive folded mine in the past simply mashing up a big hill, no shifting involved. Not sure what the magic ingredients are that cause it to fold, but its always inward, over the smaller cogs. I assume its just high torque, and the angle of the chainline pulling it over. 

The big question is: How will e*13 handle this? Will they warranty it no questions asked? Will they fight you on it and say it was a missed shift? Will they chalk it up to materials defect? Will this result in a heavier redesign like some other manufacturers? Please keep us informed, since I'm sure Ill be following right behind you in the process.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

To reduce the angle of the chainline, i used a 6mm offset chainring rather than a 3mm chainring for my Boost 148 bike.

But for the bent cog, if all teeth were engaged, you can crank all you want it shouldnt bend. 

I'm guessing you cranked hard while downshifting. You probably downshifted and The derailleur moved the chain down one cog and before all the teeth engaged in the smaller cog you cranked hard. 

I bet the bigger the spacing between gears the greater the risk of taco. You dont see road bikers tacoing their 11-28t 11sp cassettes


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

I wonder about chain length and suspension/extension interaction with these giant aluminum plates. Even things like the forces transmitted due to chain-slap type movement on rough downhills.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

MegaMustang said:


> I've been around long enough to know none of this stuff is going to last forever.
> Anyway, check out the pics:
> 
> View attachment 1131547
> ...


Not isolated to e13 cassettes. Caused by too much tourque under right circumstances. What front ring are you running? Did you adjust length of chain when putting the larger e13 unit on?


----------



## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

Definitely not isolated to e13, I have seen a number of people roll their SRAM 42t cog as well. It's a mix of torque, shift technique and I suspect metal fatigue that Aluminum is prone to.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

backinmysaddle said:


> Definitely not isolated to e13, I have seen a number of people roll their SRAM 42t cog as well. It's a mix of torque, shift technique and I suspect metal fatigue that Aluminum is prone to.


Bad/less than desirable chainline doesn't help with the cross pull angle tension either. 😬


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

JMac47 said:


> Not isolated to e13 cassettes. Caused by too much tourque under right circumstances. What front ring are you running? Did you adjust length of chain when putting the larger e13 unit on?


Running Absolute Black 30T oval up front. Yes, chain replaced/adjusted with cassette install.

_Matt E.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

MegaMustang said:


> Running Absolute Black 30T oval up front. Yes, chain replaced/adjusted with cassette install.
> 
> _Matt E.


Same here. Installed it yesterday and had a trial run today. 30 km roll with 1,500 m of vertical ascent and it performed quite well.

XX1 drivetrain was a bit unhappy with the range, though. I had to chose either a slack chain in 1x11 or a tight one that risked ripping off the derailleur if the rear suspension is totally compressed in 1x1. I went with the second option because I consider it a less likely scenario, and a slack chain in 1x11 would be asking for trouble.

Has anyone dealt with this in a better way? My bike is a Specialized Enduro, with about 160 mm of rear suspension travel.

Happy shredding, all!









Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

GuitsBoy said:


> The big question is: How will e*13 handle this? Will they warranty it no questions asked? Will they fight you on it and say it was a missed shift? Will they chalk it up to materials defect? Will this result in a heavier redesign like some other manufacturers? Please keep us informed, since I'm sure Ill be following right behind you in the process.


Wow!
Moments after pledging to email e*thirteen today, I sent a note (with the same pics attached). About two hours later, Cory (from The Hive) wrote me back and told me they would send me a new aluminum 3-ring carrier ... today. After saying they'd take care of me, he did ask about what chain I ran and how many miles were on the cassette (answers: SRAM PCXX1 and 230 mi). Point is, they said they'd take care of me BEFORE asking about some of the particulars. A couple hours later, they wrote back again, said the carrier was on its way and provided the tracking number.
I'll post a couple pics once I get the new piece in and installed.
So happy to receive A+ customer care!
_Matt E.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

That's Awesome Matt. Great Customer service!! Mine has 335 miles on it since Late December when I bought it and running great so far.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

MegaMustang said:


> Wow!
> Moments after pledging to email e*thirteen today, I sent a note (with the same pics attached). About two hours later, Cory (from The Hive) wrote me back and told me they would send me a new aluminum 3-ring carrier ... today. After saying they'd take care of me, he did ask about what chain I ran and how many miles were on the cassette (answers: SRAM PCXX1 and 230 mi). Point is, they said they'd take care of me BEFORE asking about some of the particulars. A couple hours later, they wrote back again, said the carrier was on its way and provided the tracking number.
> I'll post a couple pics once I get the new piece in and installed.
> So happy to receive A+ customer care!
> _Matt E.


Awesome news, man! I'm happy to read that they're so interested in helping their clients.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Customer service over there is fantastic. I have a problem with holding 3rd gear and Cory found out earlier today, and is sending me a new one. Already sent in fact. 
The main thing is they want to learn, he wants the old one back to learn if it can be improved. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

MegaMustang said:


> Wow!
> Moments after pledging to email e*thirteen today, I sent a note (with the same pics attached). About two hours later, Cory (from The Hive) wrote me back and told me they would send me a new aluminum 3-ring carrier ... today. After saying they'd take care of me, he did ask about what chain I ran and how many miles were on the cassette (answers: SRAM PCXX1 and 230 mi). Point is, they said they'd take care of me BEFORE asking about some of the particulars. A couple hours later, they wrote back again, said the carrier was on its way and provided the tracking number.
> I'll post a couple pics once I get the new piece in and installed.
> So happy to receive A+ customer care!
> _Matt E.


Wow, that's great news. I had my great customer support with Charlie there at TheHive. Mine involved my EThirteen cassette and information on setting up the proper chainline. With certain chainring (smaller), the angles become much more severe and moving the chainline in helps. Charlie was great in guidence and information (something RaceFace and others did not come back to me with).


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Is the best price still Amain with coupon code?


----------



## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

jsalas2 said:


> Is the best price still Amain with coupon code?


I believe it is.


----------



## jsalas2 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

gmats said:


> Wow, that's great news. I had my great customer support with Charlie there at TheHive. Mine involved my EThirteen cassette and information on setting up the proper chainline. With certain chainring (smaller), the angles become much more severe and moving the chainline in helps. Charlie was great in guidence and information (something RaceFace and others did not come back to me with).


What chainline did they recommend?


----------



## CarManDSL (Jul 16, 2011)

Does anyone have a comment on the 9 tooth gear and the polygon effect? Due to the gear being so small, as the chain wraps around it, one gets a stepped or jarring effect. Is this really noticable?

Apparently SRAM abandoned using a 9 tooth because of this during XX1 development.


----------



## jvaliensi (Feb 6, 2011)

Hi,
I was wondering the same thing about the 9T cog. However, from my limited experience it is smooth enough.
It be cool if they brought out a 10mm pitch chain, this would improve the gearing options and reduce the steps between gears. Shimano had a 10mm track chain in the early 80's but it never caught on.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I find I'm never in the 9t gear unless I'm purposely trying to hit it. But when I do use it, I really dont notice it feeling weird in any way. Perhaps its too low a cadence? But even if it were noticeable, I dont use the gear frequently enough for it to be bothersome. Its only there for the rare occasion I may need to use it, and Id be willing to put up with some minor annoyance.


----------



## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

CarManDSL said:


> Does anyone have a comment on the 9 tooth gear and the polygon effect? Due to the gear being so small, as the chain wraps around it, one gets a stepped or jarring effect. Is this really noticable?
> 
> Apparently SRAM abandoned using a 9 tooth because of this during XX1 development.


Feels fine to me.

Can you explain the "polygon effect" more ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CarManDSL (Jul 16, 2011)

Polygon effect described in this article.

SRAM XX1: Component development and details - BikeRadar


----------



## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Hey guys, installed my cassette yesterday. I haven't had a chance to get on the trails yet,but it shifts great riding around my house. What do think of my chain length? Is it OK, or should I shorten it another two links?






ATTACH]


----------



## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

No idea why the pic posted upside-down...


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

brianw7 said:


> Hey guys, installed my cassette yesterday. I haven't had a chance to get on the trails yet,but it shifts great riding around my house. What do think of my chain length? Is it OK, or should I shorten it another two links?
> View attachment 1132160
> ATTACH]


Does the chain still have tension when it's in the 11th gear?

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Yes, it still has tension, but just barely. Probably a little more when I'm actually on the bike as opposed to in the work stand.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

brianw7 said:


> Hey guys, installed my cassette yesterday. I haven't had a chance to get on the trails yet,but it shifts great riding around my house. What do think of my chain length? Is it OK, or should I shorten it another two links?


Unlesss you've bottomed out the shock in the biggest gears, how could we know how much extension your suspension has?


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

brianw7 said:


> Yes, it still has tension, but just barely. Probably a little more when I'm actually on the bike as opposed to in the work stand.
> View attachment 1132162


I think it looks well as it is, but I'm not an expert.

I recently faced a similar situation with my Enduro and XX1 drivetrain when installing this cassette, leaving it with barely any tension in 11th gear on the stand. I fear that I might damage the derailleur if I have full suspension compression in 1st gear, but the alternative was to leave the chain slack in 11th,which was unacceptable. I'll need to keep in mind that I can't have drastic suspension-compressing actions in 1st.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Here's a pick fully compressed...there is not much play left in the derailleur.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

brianw7 said:


> Here's a pick fully compressed...there is not much play left in the derailleur.
> View attachment 1132171


If there's still some play, then it sounds like you're well-set! 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Just had this installed yesterday with no drama. I had a 10-42t XX1 which was crisp, quiet, and quick. The TRS seems to be louder, feels a bit clunky, and slower to shift but not that terrible, will just need to adjust to the difference in feel. I had to add 4 links (new chain using big chainring-big COG method under full compression - 140mm shock compressed added 2 link lengths) and a few turns of the b-screw. I've kept the old chain and old cassette just in case I want to go back as the 42 was "just" enough for me but wouldn't mind making it easier so I can have more energy on the descents which was the primary motivator for me. I don't like to add weight to the bike but I think making it easier will save me more than the 34g that this cassette added (not including the weight of the 4 links). The 12g lockring is pretty beefy, seems like overkill. The 9t is pretty useless for me, I'd prefer to go to a 50t and get rid of the 9t. No goatlink needed (XTR RD GS).

The next step is to see if I should go from my 30T oval to a 28T oval so that most of my climbing will be in the 2nd largest clog and leave the 46t as a bailout gear. Not sure what it will do to my anti squat (2016 Mojo 3) if it's even a factor. That will give me a little more ground clearance. I'm not sure if I'll drop a chain due to the larger cog so a chain guide might be needed. Can't wait to put some climbing miles on this new cassette.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Ive just put in 13 miles and 2500ft. Ive noticed when i get lazy i just go in the big cog and spin. I dont feel as tired as a result. The clunkiness went away after some break in. It misshifted twice, no biggy. No noticeable slowness either which is great. The unexpected benefit was giving me the ability to climb steeper loose sections easier because the big cog helped smooth out the power delivery versus spinning out and then you're hiking. So far i see no disadvantages, everyone should get one 
I didnt use the 9t at all except for one flat section where i topped out at 29mph. Dont anticipate using it, i dont wanto go 30mph down a rocky trail, my body isnt built for that type of impact. I think the 9-46 is a no brainer.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

I've had my eye on one of these for awhile. Like many, my X1 10-42 with a 30 up front has been nearly perfect but leaves me wondering what that little extra would do for the climbs. I went ahead and ordered from:

https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063

With coupon APRC317 I grabbed it for $269.99! Seemed like a good deal. I almost bought the 9-44 for a little less and figured down the line I could replace the cogs with the 46 set but I find out that's a no go.

I need a new chain, what's everyone running? My bike came with a KMC X11SL DLC but I'm having a hard time forking over that much for a chain.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

flyfishermanmike said:


> I've had my eye on one of these for awhile. Like many, my X1 10-42 with a 30 up front has been nearly perfect but leaves me wondering what that little extra would do for the climbs. I went ahead and ordered from:
> 
> https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063
> 
> ...


My experience is that I find that the KMC X11SL drops down the cassette (harshly) when spinning crank in reverse. The SRAM PCXX1 is far more stable, though I think there is a slight weight penalty.

_Matt E.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

SRAM chain for sure is the best bang for the buck. If you ride wet weather, go with at least the X1 if not the XX1. The weight savings isnt much, but the nickel coating will keep it from developing surface rush or corrosion. If youre riding in dry weather, theres little reason not to go with the PC1110 chain for 14 bucks. As MegaMustang alluded to, the sram chain profile seems to be less prone to ghost shifting (dropping down) gears when backpedaling or ratcheting.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

flyfishermanmike said:


> I've had my eye on one of these for awhile. Like many, my X1 10-42 with a 30 up front has been nearly perfect but leaves me wondering what that little extra would do for the climbs. I went ahead and ordered from:
> 
> https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063
> 
> ...


Great deal, man! Thank you for sharing the details.

I'm running it with the Sram PCX1 chain, which costs like $25. 0 issues so far, and no dropping gears when pedaling backwards. As a bonus point, this chain looks sick with its silver and black links.









Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

MegaMustang said:


> My experience is that I find that the KMC X11SL drops down the cassette (harshly) when spinning crank in reverse. The SRAM PCXX1 is far more stable, though I think there is a slight weight penalty.
> 
> _Matt E.


I'm running a KMC chain, and it was also dropping off the 42 cog when backpedaling, but since the 42t cog is worn and can't be replaced on the X1 cassette, I bought an E13 9-44 cassette, installed it over the weekend, and now it backpedals without dropping the (KMC) chain. Maybe chains are a factor, but I'm skeptical there is that much difference.


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

I heard early on the 11 speed SRAM chains were breaking easily. I'm guessing that's fixed? 

Also, might as well get a new chainring so I'm going to try an oval for the first time! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

*Back in the big ring!*



MegaMustang said:


> Wow!
> Moments after pledging to email e*thirteen today, I sent a note (with the same pics attached). About two hours later, Cory (from The Hive) wrote me back and told me they would send me a new aluminum 3-ring carrier ... today. After saying they'd take care of me, he did ask about what chain I ran and how many miles were on the cassette (answers: SRAM PCXX1 and 230 mi). Point is, they said they'd take care of me BEFORE asking about some of the particulars. A couple hours later, they wrote back again, said the carrier was on its way and provided the tracking number.
> I'll post a couple pics once I get the new piece in and installed.
> So happy to receive A+ customer care!
> _Matt E.











Following up, as you can see, I now have my new carrier of 3 big rings!

The package arrived via UPS at 8:00 pm on Friday... and I had to get up at 5:00 am on Saturday for a race... not the time to experiment.

Anyway, re-installed this evening after work. Since I thought it was POSSIBLE that insufficient chain length could have been a contributing factor, I added 4 links to my chain. Nope, derailleur wouldn't take up the slack. So I pulled out 2 links. Nope, still not enough. So, took out 2 more....back to where I was before.

So, I guess I'll be my careful to get out of low gear once I crest a hill and head back down. As well, I think it's wise to be careful about shifting just one gear at a time once you're on the aluminum cogs (low 3).

Hope to re-test and ride Wednesday night.

Cheers!
_Matt E.


----------



## ssrmr2 (Jun 22, 2007)

Just pulled the trigger from on this thru AMAIN. I used the link above and it was 300, and then the coupon code. I'll get it tomorrow!!!!!


----------



## Rinker (Jul 15, 2010)

I just pulled the trigger on this cassette as well. Thanks for the tip on AMAIN. Never heard of this retailer before but definitely a decent deal. 

Two things I am curious over my current 11-46 Shimano setup. I like the gear spacing of the e-thirteen much better than the Shimano. I also like the fact of the 9 tooth for those long flat areas that the 11 tooth would top out at. Running a 32 up front and didn't want to go with the 34. 

Cheers.


----------



## ssrmr2 (Jun 22, 2007)

Got mine yesterday!!! How and the hell are you guys pedaling 32 or larger? I can barely push 30x10 unless I am going down a hill.


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

Mine came in yesterday as well. Very pretty! Looking forward to testing it out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Rinker (Jul 15, 2010)

ssrmr2 said:


> Got mine yesterday!!! How and the hell are you guys pedaling 32 or larger? I can barely push 30x10 unless I am going down a hill.


Hit the road bike with a 54 big ring and you will throw that 30 tooth in the garbage! I don't enjoy the road bike much but it definitely helps with the endurance when you hit the single track. I usually ride my road bike a couple times a week just to keep the legs in shape.


----------



## ssrmr2 (Jun 22, 2007)

Just installed the cassette today along with xtr derailer and shifter!! 

The steel portion of the cassette is challenging but if you use a socket and deadblown as described earlier this is no problem. It's tight but more importantly to make sure it's on straight before putting axial pressure on it. Another note, while installing rotate the cassette and you will see where it's not aligned. Can't wait to to go ride again.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

Guys, do I need a specific e13 bb tool to install the cassette?


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

It comes with am install tool
You just need a wrench 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Welp, I knew it was only a matter of time before I joined the bent cog club.

400 to 450 miles on it, 28:46 gearing, 2.8 nobby nic, rarely use the bailout gears. Chainline was optimized to allow for backpedaling, which should help avoid folding the cog over. Glad it has a 5 year warranty, hope I dont have to go through this every few hundred miles though.

Email sent to e*13, waiting to hear their reply.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I LOVE my E13r cassettes performance but I sure wish they would just build the 3 low gears out of steel or titanium or whatever would make them a lot stronger.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

One of my e13 cassette looks like that too. And the second one is slow creeping to fold. I have not email e13 yet. Havent got the time to take a photo.
Well, maybe if riders report this problem to e13 they might change material. Another 40 grams weight gain doesn't bother me.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

GuitsBoy said:


> Welp, I knew it was only a matter of time before I joined the bent cog club.
> 
> 400 to 450 miles on it, 28:46 gearing, 2.8 nobby nic, rarely use the bailout gears. Chainline was optimized to allow for backpedaling, which should help avoid folding the cog over. Glad it has a 5 year warranty, hope I dont have to go through this every few hundred miles though.
> 
> Email sent to e*13, waiting to hear their reply.


Received email back from e*13 and they'll be sending a new one out, and a return label to return the bent carrier for inspection. I asked if what would happen if I bend the next one, will it be replaced as well? I also asked if they think I'm simply too heavy to be using this part, and if I should simply sell it and move to a stouter cassette.

Honestly I just hope they will make some design and/or material changes. Id actually prefer if they made the low carrier out of steel, and found a few more areas to pick off material on the CNC. They could have a much stronger ring without adding too much weight. But that's all purely wild speculation. I guess we'll see.

EDIT:
They replied that weight shouldn't be a problem. They have a lot in circulation, and relatively few have come back. But they will stand by their product "till the end". That's certainly good to hear.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Great to hear that but what is the answer about the next cog if they bent again? 
I will get some photo of my bent cog and email to e13. Hopefully, I get good news too.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

ckspeed said:


> Great to hear that but what is the answer about the next cog if they bent again?
> I will get some photo of my bent cog and email to e13. Hopefully, I get good news too.


Edited my post, but the exact wording of the response was "We stand behind our product till the end." so I take that to mean that they will replace again.

I have a full stable, and plenty of spare sram 10-42 cassettes, so I'm willing to replace it as often as they are. Eventually one of us will get tired.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I hope that means as many time as it can be within the 5 year warranty. I have 3 of this for the 3 bikes and a backup trs plus cassette. Thats alot to be replaced if the cog on each of these bike gets bent.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I guess we wont really know until someone has replaced a bent cog multiple times. There's a good chance this will wind up being me.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

You and I both. I'm heavy too. I use the upper 6 big cogs most on Mojo3 and Bronson. I'm not worry about the anthem advanced as this is my wifes.new bike and she is light rider.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

GuitsBoy said:


> View attachment 1148729
> 
> 
> Welp, I knew it was only a matter of time before I joined the bent cog club.
> ...


Hey, that pic looks familiar!

Glad to hear that you got the same quick response and service I got. Hoping mine survives the Shenandoah Mountain 100 in a few weeks!
Cheers,
Matt


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

MegaMustang said:


> Hey, that pic looks familiar!
> 
> Glad to hear that you got the same quick response and service I got. Hoping mine survives the Shenandoah Mountain 100 in a few weeks!
> Cheers,
> Matt


I held the cassette the opposite direction so nobody would get confused!

Best of luck on the race. Hope both you and the cassette survive.


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

GuitsBoy said:


> I held the cassette the opposite direction so nobody would get confused!
> 
> Best of luck on the race. Hope both you and the cassette survive.


Hahaha... smart!

Thanks!.... be assured, I'll report in.


----------



## radex (Jul 27, 2017)

Hi, anyone having this issue pls? . The cassette lockring is more than 25N*m and no more move (not in video) but the aluminum cassette still move ... 



 

more power? or ...


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Maybe you didnt use the grease that comes with it? Theres thread locker applied to the inside of the lock nut. Its too gummy and hard to move without any grease or thread lube.


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

I don't know how or when but I bent my 46. Emailed e13, heard back the next morning and had a new part that week! Awesome CS!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I received my replacement cluster yesterday, and the cassette is back in business. The replacement part was shipped out the same day I contacted e*13. Ill wipe down the old bent carrier and return it to them after the weekend. 

Side by side, I dont see any differences in the parts. The thicknesses and machining all look identical. The part number (or serial?) is off by a couple numbers, but otherwise it seems no changes. Hopefully this one doesn't suffer the same fate.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

GuitsBoy said:


> I received my replacement cluster yesterday, and the cassette is back in business. The replacement part was shipped out the same day I contacted e*13. Ill wipe down the old bent carrier and return it to them after the weekend.
> 
> Side by side, I dont see any differences in the parts. The thicknesses and machining all look identical. The part number (or serial?) is off by a couple numbers, but otherwise it seems no changes. Hopefully this one doesn't suffer the same fate.


That's great news, man! 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

They do provide killer customer service.
I don't like that I'm about to be on my 3rd lower gear set in 8 months, but I'd buy it again because of the customer service. It's also a superior product when working 100%.
I hope that they improve the reliability in time. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

How much do you guys weigh that are bending the cogs? I might put one of these on my next bike, not sure yet. But as I am pretty light I am assuming I won't have this problem, unless you guys come back telling you that you're my weight...


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Ive had mine for a while and no breakage and i use my climbing gears a lot. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## heet (Oct 25, 2015)

I wore out one of the big cogs, my favorite climbing gear. Looks like I used a worn chain on the aluminum for too long. Bought it right when it came available. Was that November?


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

Sidewalk said:


> How much do you guys weigh that are bending the cogs? I might put one of these on my next bike, not sure yet. But as I am pretty light I am assuming I won't have this problem, unless you guys come back telling you that you're my weight...


190# ready to ride. All 3 of my cassettes bend. Will need to get pics and email e13.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Sidewalk said:


> How much do you guys weigh that are bending the cogs?


 235-240 lbs geared up.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Sidewalk said:


> How much do you guys weigh that are bending the cogs? I might put one of these on my next bike, not sure yet. But as I am pretty light I am assuming I won't have this problem, unless you guys come back telling you that you're my weight...


I weigh 190 pounds without gear. I've bent a tooth on one of the aluminum cogs, but I bent it back with a few gentle taps using a hammer.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I weigh 179#. I don't bend them, 3rd gear wears and it jumps teeth under torque. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

Matt, what chainring size are you running in the front for the SM100? I have to do some more lobbying at home, but I'm close to going. Foolishly, I was thinking I could do a 12 hour finish, but looking at last year's time, I think that 13 hour might be a tad bit closer to reality.

-Stuart


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

Pegleg81 said:


> Matt, what chainring size are you running in the front for the SM100? I have to do some more lobbying at home, but I'm close to going. Foolishly, I was thinking I could do a 12 hour finish, but looking at last year's time, I think that 13 hour might be a tad bit closer to reality.
> 
> -Stuart


Stuart,
Last year and this year: 30T AbsoluteBlack (oval). Last year I was on the 10-42T; this year, the 9-46T. Hoping it gives me a bit more ability to get all the way up the Death Climb (#5) without hiking (I did ride it a couple weeks ago without a dab.... but also without the 65 mile and 8 hour warm-up). 
Hope to see you out there!
_Matt E.


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

Better off in an endurance race under gearing then over gearing. Very few people are faster than Tinker, and he runs a 30 or 32 depending on the race.

Interview: XC racing legend Tinker Juarez - Mtbr.com


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've got a brand new TRS as it was replaced under warranty. I intend to sell my entire XX1 set up with the rear cassette. The trigger shifter, the rear clutch derailler, an excellent condition SRAM chain (just paid $80 for it!) with extra links, and the rear cassette.

My new Eagle will be here in about 10 days so the intention is to sell off all this stuff, preferably as a group set.


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

How much? PM me.


----------



## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

FW1TPA-102 New 9-46 MSRP $249.00......ETA: 12/15/2017

FW1TRA-100 Existing 9-46 MSRP $349.00


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Looks like the 17t cog has worn out a bit on mine, and is skipping under load. I changed the chain, replaced the cable and housing, and even swapped a brand new derailleur in, but nothing will hold in the 17t anymore. All other gears seem to be fine. Sent a message to e*13 and I'm waiting on a response.

SRAM GX cassette is back in action, and shifting well.


----------



## Pegleg81 (Aug 6, 2014)

MegaMustang said:


> Stuart,
> Last year and this year: 30T AbsoluteBlack (oval). Last year I was on the 10-42T; this year, the 9-46T. Hoping it gives me a bit more ability to get all the way up the Death Climb (#5) without hiking (I did ride it a couple weeks ago without a dab.... but also without the 65 mile and 8 hour warm-up).
> Hope to see you out there!
> _Matt E.


I have the same chain ring, too! Thanks for letting me know.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tungsten (Apr 7, 2006)

radex said:


> Hi, anyone having this issue pls? . The cassette lockring is more than 25N*m and no more move (not in video) but the aluminum cassette still move ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Holy.....that's a lot of movement.
I'm having same issue w/mine but it doesn't move nearly that much - it shouldn't move at all, amiright?

Did you resolve yours, radex?


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

hello everyone 

atm running xtr 9000 2*11 28-36 front and xtr cassete back 11-40
thinking long about getting this e.thirteen cassete so my question is 
can it be run on 2*11 setup did anyone try? i know on site say its for 1*11
and if it only for 1*11 whats biggest front chainring can go? 

ty all


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Godlys said:


> hello everyone
> 
> atm running xtr 9000 2*11 28-36 front and xtr cassete back 11-40
> thinking long about getting this e.thirteen cassete so my question is
> ...


I think youll run out of derailleur capacity. It can only take up so many teeth, and youve likely hit the limit with the 9-46. Add a 2x crank, and the chain will either go clack in the 9t cog, or run out of slack before it will shift to the 46t. Possibly even both.


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

derailleur capacity is 45t what this 2* setup is exactly with this cassette 37t cassette and 8 front shoud work thats why i ask before go into that.

also if i decide to convert this to 1* can i put like 44t front or so on it if anyone know?
as iam not too good what can fit on this 

ty


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Are you sure that's the capacity and not the biggest cog clearance? My 11 speed gx derailleur, which I believe is considered a long cage, is very nearly out of capacity on my 9-46.


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

from shimano site for my deraileur

Front Difference : 18T 
Total Capacity : 45T


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Are you on a hardtail? If full suspension, dont even think about it, because youll need some extra capacity for chain growth as the suspension cycles. But even rated at 45t capacity for the RD, we dont know just how conservative or aggressive they were with the rating. If the rating is the absolute max from one stop to the other, and the wheel just happens to sit a half link forward or backward from ideal, it may not work. But youll never know until you try.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

Godlys said:


> hello everyone
> 
> atm running xtr 9000 2*11 28-36 front and xtr cassete back 11-40
> thinking long about getting this e.thirteen cassete so my question is
> ...


2 x 9-46 (or any other 1 x cassette) has too many redundant/over lapping gears, that's why no ones does it.


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

yes on hardtail, well i find this XTR series have special bcd so 1*11 36t front maybe 38t if will fit to not hit frame and e13 shoudnt be problem to set and when need more climbing capability just swap front ring with 30-32t
but will also try this my 28-36 or maybe 30-38 if will work ill keep 2*11 as not so weight wennie as my wheels are heavy as hell  
ty all


----------



## BullSCit (Mar 26, 2004)

Anyone know where you can get a replacement for the 3 low gears aluminum cassette for 9-46? Kind of disappointed in mine, as the 33t (3rd gear) is slipping with just normal torque applied. I loved the cassette up to this past weekend (have less than 1000 miles on it), but sucks to have to check to see what gear you are in before pedaling hard.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

BullSCit said:


> Anyone know where you can get a replacement for the 3 low gears aluminum cassette for 9-46? Kind of disappointed in mine, as the 33t (3rd gear) is slipping with just normal torque applied. I loved the cassette up to this past weekend (have less than 1000 miles on it), but sucks to have to check to see what gear you are in before pedaling hard.


Contact them about it. Their customer service has been great. I tacoed the big cogs, and had the 18t steel cog start skipping under load. They warranteed it no problem both times. Unless youre at very high mileage where it could be considered a wear item, they should warrantee it. And even if they dont, yes they supposedly do sell the aluminum cluster separately.


----------



## jdaigneault (Oct 18, 2013)

BullSCit said:


> Anyone know where you can get a replacement for the 3 low gears aluminum cassette for 9-46? Kind of disappointed in mine, as the 33t (3rd gear) is slipping with just normal torque applied. I loved the cassette up to this past weekend (have less than 1000 miles on it), but sucks to have to check to see what gear you are in before pedaling hard.


They sell the last 3 cog cluster for $125.


----------



## radex (Jul 27, 2017)

tungsten said:


> Holy.....that's a lot of movement.
> I'm having same issue w/mine but it doesn't move nearly that much - it shouldn't move at all, amiright?
> 
> Did you resolve yours, radex?


yeap 1mm spacer help me . but . after every 2-3 rides cassete is noisy, creaking a lot . i tried all internet tips, nothing helps me . so . eagle is comming


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Just got the 9-46t TRS+(FW1TPA-102), not TRSr. Hope they ironed out previous issues and that this will be stronger than the r which has more material removed to make it lighter. My initial findings are here, anyone has experience using this cassette? thx


----------



## StumpyElite2010 (Feb 3, 2011)

MegaMustang said:


> Installed my 9-46T cassette this evening.... a bit of a wrestling match, but I expect next time will go a bit quicker. Here are a few tips:
> 1. There is a small sleeve that sits inside the outter half of the cassete. Lube the crap out of that and set it back in place in that outter half. This piece confused me because I could only get the outter half to engage the inner half without this sleeve... for the first hour or so. I set a socket over the end of the XD hub and gave it a few taps -- I think that was just enough to get that sleeve to sit all the way down on the hub. After a couple more attempts, the outter piece locked in place. I don't know if it was the taps, or if I "held my mouth just right," but it locked in.


Exact same here... 
The Socket/tapping did the magic !
Thank for your post !


----------



## grizfish (Oct 24, 2011)

GuitsBoy said:


> Contact them about it. Their customer service has been great. I tacoed the big cogs, and had the 18t steel cog start skipping under load. They warranteed it no problem both times. Unless youre at very high mileage where it could be considered a wear item, they should warrantee it. And even if they dont, yes they supposedly do sell the aluminum cluster separately.


I hope to clear up some confusing comments on this thread. 
There are some comments about difficulties installing the E thirteen 9-46 cassette. I like to try different cassettes on my 11 speed and have found that Shimano's XTR derailleur works best for me, even with an XD driver. 
1) After installing the inner (larger) cog assembly, some posters have suggested tapping the smaller assembly to get it locked in place. My alternative approach is to attach a chain whip and exert a little pressure toward locking it into place. Then, as pressure is applied, use finger pressure where the locking tabs are located on the cog. This will help to position the locking tabs for rotation into the locked position. With a little finess, you can feel the tabs align and allow rotation into the locked position.
2) My TRSr cassette has a 17 tooth cog. So, I don't understand the comment about excessive wear on the 18 tooth cog.
3) My E Thirteen cassette does not squeak like others have mentioned. Then again, I use a liberal amount of grease in the locations shown in the assembly instructions. Have used both the grease supplied by e13 and Park Tool PPL, on different installs.

Good derailleur adjustment and front chain ring alignment have given me excellent shifting. Back pedaling in the 9 tooth cog can create some noise, but has never caused the chain to jump off the cog. Great shifting and I like the gear separations.
I am presently using a 2X crankset without a front derailleur. Gives me a chance to check two different chain rings on a single ride. I like to try different ovals. Care should be taken to properly align the chain ring, depending on whether you have a standard or boost rear hub.

This cassette is my favorite so far, but I will soon be trying the Garbaruk 11sp 10-50 cassette. I'm an old fart who needs the extra gearing range and smaller cogs for going to and from the trails, but don't want to go the 12sp route.

Hope this helps someone.


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

I sure am enjoying the extended range of the 46 but I'd love to try the 50t on the garburak. At some point my xtr medium cage might not be long enough 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## grizfish (Oct 24, 2011)

jacksonlui said:


> I sure am enjoying the extended range of the 46 but I'd love to try the 50t on the garburak. At some point my xtr medium cage might not be long enough
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Feel the same way about wanting to try a 50t. My XTR has a long cage and looks like it could work, but Garbaruk recommends using one of their cages. For me, it's their part compatible with Shimano 11-sp shadow+. Decided to go ahead with their cage because I'm a sucker for billet parts (CNC milled and anodized to match the cassette). I was a machinist in another life and am impressed with their quality machining. We'll see how it works out.


----------



## Nohit_45 (Dec 14, 2017)

Hey guys, so I just purchased the 9-46 cassette and am curious if anyone has ever used a SRAM Eagle chain with it? I'd have to drop a few links I imagine, but have heard numerous reports on how great those chains are. Any thoughts?


----------



## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Another question...Is there any other differences in the + and the Race, besides weight? Where are they getting the 30gm weight reduction?


----------



## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

I just ordered one of these. These reports of premature wear and bending cogs are worrying but I take comfort in the fact that I rarely damage or wear out components. The gear range and weight sold me on taking a chance. It will be my first SRAM XD cassette installation-any tips besides the E-13 specific guidelines? What tools will I need? (I have several BB tools and I'm hoping that one will work.)


----------



## zemmo (Dec 17, 2017)

I'm impatiently waiting for my 5010 to come in, I ordered it with the E13 9-46, Shimano M8000 brakes, etc. I don't really need the nine, so if I don't like the way it shifts, I'll just replace it with a 11-46 Shimano cassette, and sell the E13. There aren't any compatibility issues with the cassette substitution, are there? TIA


----------



## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

zemmo said:


> I'm impatiently waiting for my 5010 to come in, I ordered it with the E13 9-46, Shimano M8000 brakes, etc. I don't really need the nine, so if I don't like the way it shifts, I'll just replace it with a 11-46 Shimano cassette, and sell the E13. There aren't any compatibility issues with the cassette substitution, are there? TIA


e13 9-46 is with XD freehub body so you can't replace it with a Shimano cassette you need a Shimano compatible freehub body too.


----------



## Widgeontrail (Mar 15, 2006)

950sm07 said:


> e13 9-46 is with XD freehub body so you can't replace it with a Shimano cassette you need a Shimano compatible freehub body too.


Not to mention you'll add almost a HALF POUND to your bike (and the shimano freehub weighs more than the XD)! That was the big motivation for me to the the E*13 cassette. A 500 gram cassette is stupid for a high end MTB.


----------



## 950sm07 (Oct 28, 2011)

Widgeontrail said:


> Not to mention you'll add almost a HALF POUND to your bike (and the shimano freehub weighs more than the XD)! That was the big motivation for me to the the E*13 cassette. A 500 gram cassette is stupid for a high end MTB.


Well... you get three XT 11-46 cassettes for the price of one 9-46 trs+ and four for 9-46 trs r. The difference is 120g and it's up to you which one worth your money. As they are wear items I couldn't justify the e13 for myself.


----------



## zemmo (Dec 17, 2017)

Dang. I hope to like the E13 shifting, then . ;^}


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

If you don't like it, go for a Sram 1150 cassette. It's a 10-42 (420%), so it has pretty much the same range as an 11-46 (418.18%). If you want a lower low gear, you can get another chainring with less teeth. It uses the XD Driver as well, and can currently be found for less than $90 on Jenson.

I've really liked my TRS Race and I'm thinking of getting another one when this one wears out. I've used it for around 9 months so far. Amaincycling has it for $246 right now.

https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I have 3 TRS Race and 1 TRS Plus. They all working fine for me.


----------



## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

The tap technique works a charm. Installed Race cassettes on two wheelsets. 305g/per on my scale. My XO1 was 265. Neglible penalty for greater range, no need for Eagle. Great shifting once b screw is fine tuned. Ended up at 8mm(ish) from cog.


----------



## zemmo (Dec 17, 2017)

Renzo7 said:


> If you don't like it, go for a Sram 1150 cassette. It's a 10-42 (420%), so it has pretty much the same range as an 11-46 (418.18%). If you want a lower low gear, you can get another chainring with less teeth. It uses the XD Driver as well, and can currently be found for less than $90 on Jenson.
> 
> I've really liked my TRS Race and I'm thinking of getting another one when this one wears out. I've used it for around 9 months so far. Amaincycling has it for $246 right now.
> QUOTE]
> ...


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

zemmo said:


> Thanks for the info, everyone. The ZE build I'm getting specs the TRS Race. I only weigh 130, so not too worried about bending the aluminum cogs. I need a low gear, so I'd probably go to a 28 front if I used the 10x42.


Nice. I agree with you regarding weight and chances of bending a cog. I weigh 190 and have had no issues.

I hope you enjoy the bike!

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

i was thinking to make my bike single with 38-40 single front and e-13 tsrs back for flat roads with 28-34 front which i can swap when need for hilly. what back derailluer u using with it. atm i own xtr 9000 long cage shoud i keep that one or go for one of srams and which i shoud use

ty


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Godlys said:


> i was thinking to make my bike single with 38-40 single front and e-13 tsrs back for flat roads with 28-34 front which i can swap when need for hilly. what back derailluer u using with it. atm i own xtr 9000 long cage shoud i keep that one or go for one of srams and which i shoud use
> 
> ty


I believe that any long-cage 11 speed derailleur will work. Can someone else please confirm?

I have a Sram XX1 on mine and just had to fine tune all 3 derailleur screws when I changed cassette.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## zemmo (Dec 17, 2017)

Godlys said:


> i was thinking to make my bike single with 38-40 single front and e-13 tsrs back for flat roads with 28-34 front which i can swap when need for hilly. what back derailluer u using with it. atm i own xtr 9000 long cage shoud i keep that one or go for one of srams and which i shoud use
> 
> ty


My build uses an XT M8000 rear derailleur. You might need to add or remove links when going from one front ring to another, but I don't see why that wouldn't work. Someone will chime in who knows more than me, these forums are so great for that.


----------



## Godlys (Apr 1, 2017)

awessome tx all 

ya iam aware of swaping chains aka adding removing links depending on front 
plan is to find first front chainring for hilly then have separate chain for small front and second chain for flat combo so i just swap whole chain and chainring so dont need all time adjust chain

ty all again


----------



## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

I just setup the 9-46 cassette w/ XTR derailleur/chain/shifter, Goatlink and Wolf Tooth 30t up front on a new build (my first geared 29er build beyond 9-speed). 

The two-piece cassette installed on the blingy Chris King XD freehub pressed on by hand with no issues. After adjusting all three derailleur screws, it shifts and back pedal spins on the stand like a champ... hope to hit the trails later in the week.


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

For those of you who have used BOTH the Trs race cassette and an 11 speed Shimano XTR or XT cassette, would you say the shifting is as good with the Trs? Particularly whether it’s as smooth


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

jon123 said:


> For those of you who have used BOTH the Trs race cassette and an 11 speed Shimano XTR or XT cassette, would you say the shifting is as good with the Trs? Particularly whether it's as smooth


The TRS is not as smooth as XTR or XT (or X01 or XX1 for that matter). It's good enough to do the job however, just clunkier when going into the cogs.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I have one of an E-13 TRS Race Cassette with just a handful of rides on it. $190 + $15 shipping takes it.

I also have the rest of the 11 speed stuff if so needed (I swapped to Eagle) including an XX1 Derailer, XX1 shifter, and an almost new KMC 11 speed chain.

Can sell the entire set up shipped for $400.

Thanks


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

flipnidaho said:


> The TRS is not as smooth as XTR or XT (or X01 or XX1 for that matter). It's good enough to do the job however, just clunkier when going into the cogs.


Thanks that helps. Rules it out for me. I love the weight of the Trs but wouldn't want to sacrifice shift quality. 
How would you compare XX1 cassette to Shimano?


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Flipinidaho is spot on. Its worth having the extra range though. I still have my almost new xx1 cassette. Still not sure if i should sell it. The xtr shifts really well with the xx1 but the 46 is nice to have than the 42.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

jon123 said:


> Thanks that helps. Rules it out for me. I love the weight of the Trs but wouldn't want to sacrifice shift quality.
> How would you compare XX1 cassette to Shimano?


11 spd XX1 and Shimano XTR shift about the same. The primary difference is that the SRAM trigger shifter feels more solid (you know you've executed a shift with SRAM) while Shimano's triggers are more muted. The SRAM 11 speed is easier to setup than Shimano (Shimano takes longer to dial in perfectly).


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

But shimano can shift several gears at a time and u can dump a bunch of gears at a time. Can sram do that? Ive never owned a sram.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Sidewalk (May 18, 2015)

jacksonlui said:


> But shimano can shift several gears at a time and u can dump a bunch of gears at a time. Can sram do that? Ive never owned a sram.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Sram can downshift multiple. Single upshift. Personally, with a wide range cassette, multi shift is useless. I rarely need to go up more than a couple gears at a time, and the upshift button is very light.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

jacksonlui said:


> But shimano can shift several gears at a time and u can dump a bunch of gears at a time. Can sram do that? Ive never owned a sram.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


With my XX1 I can downshift (easier gears) up to five gears at a time, though I can only upshift one at a time. There might be a way, but I've never cared to look for it.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

I own and ride X01, XX1 Eagle and 11 speed plus XT and XTR 11 speed regularly. As others have said, the ability to upshift and downshift multiple gears at the same time is vastly overrated in real world riding (I no longer race though, but in race situations, the few tenths of a second saved maybe important).


----------



## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

jacksonlui said:


> But shimano can shift several gears at a time and u can dump a bunch of gears at a time. Can sram do that? Ive never owned a sram.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Called grip shift. Can go up and down 11-12 gears at a time


----------



## INF216 (Feb 16, 2015)

Race series on sale for 224!

https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

And YT just announced the 2018 Jeffsy with Shimano/ TRS+ drivetrains...

YT Jeffsy 2018 - price, specs, photos, information, availability - BikeRadar


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Hi, guys. Here's a report on current use, wear, and replacement parts from my experience. 

My TRS Race cassette's set of aluminum cogs is now worn. I've done about 2,100 km in around 9 months on it, according to My Gear in Strava. During that time I've gone through about 5 chains, I think. I'll check in my house later because I've saved them. My idea has been to re-use those slightly-worn chains as the entire drivetrain wears out. I've changed them all (except one which I checked too late but still wasn't at 0.75%) at the 0.5% wear indicator on the Park Tool Chain CC 3.2 tool. 

My hope is that this new aluminum set will allow me to use the new chain with no problems, since it shouldn't skip on the new set and I don't expect it to skip on the steel set. That appears to still be in good shape for new chains. I'll let you know if that turns out to not be the case. 

When I installed a new chain recently, it would skip under torque in the aluminum set, so I switched back to one of the worn ones and ordered the replacement set of cogs from bythehive, ethirteen's site and the only place I've found the parts so far. 

It cost me $125+$17 for 2-day shipping. I live outside the US and with no dealer nearby, so I had to express ship it to someone who's coming this weekend. Still, $17 for 2-day shipping seemed quite fair vs the $5 for 8 days or $9 for 5 days. 

What has been your experience regarding component wear with this cassette? I'm interested in knowing how this compares to other people's experiences, how many of you have had or haven't had problems with new chains after placing new aluminum on older steel cogs, and any info you can consider relevant and would like to share.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

i have 1800miles on mine. Original chain too and still going strong. However i ride in sunny dry conditions year round and weigh 140lbs. I use the 46t ALOT as i preffer to spin rather than crank to save my legs.

I have a boost rear end but use a standard 6mm offset chainring rather than 3mm to acheive a straighter chainline when on tbe biggest ring. This may help cause less wear on the cassette


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

bmwzimmer said:


> i have 1800miles on mine. Original chain too and still going strong. However i ride in sunny dry conditions year round and weigh 140lbs. I use the 46t ALOT as i preffer to spin rather than crank to save my legs.
> 
> I have a boost rear end but use a standard 6mm offset chainring rather than 3mm to acheive a straighter chainline when on tbe biggest ring. This may help cause less wear on the cassette


Thank you for your comments, bmwzimmer! That's impressive life in comparison to mine, considering it's been on a single chain. I ride lots of muddy, sandy, and gnarly terrain and I weigh 190 lbs., so increased wear is to be expected. I also do lots of climbing on it.

Have you checked how your chain is doing regarding wear? If it's become too worn (stretched), you might not be able to use a new one with your current cassette because it'll skip. I learned that lesson with an XX1 cassette 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

i checked it 3 months ago and it was fine. I live in souther California where it hadnt rained in 10 months (until this week) and rides are 8-12 miles, 1000-2000’ elevation. Lots of steep climbs as well but like i said i prefer to spin than crank hard so i have a 28t chainring up front. Cleaned and ouled after every single ride. Never seen water/mud. This is probably why my drivetrain lasts so long.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Awesome! I'm feeling kind of envious, hahaha. Cheers, man! 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've got a race E13 cassette with a couple (as in 2-3) of rides on it. $160 shipped. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Suns_PSD said:


> I've got a race E13 cassette with a couple (as in 2-3) of rides on it. $160 shipped.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


That's an interesting offer! I'll try to keep that in mind when I need another and see if you still have it. If my current steel gears are worn, that might be as soon as next week *worried*.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

It looks like it's good news for me. 33-46 cluster is here, has been installed, and no skipping issues are making themselves known with the steel gears and a new chain.

I'm a happy customer! 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

INF216 said:


> Race series on sale for 224!
> 
> https://www.amaincycling.com/ethirt...tte-black-946t-fw1tra-100-46/p585883?v=561063


Is that with a coupon? I'm still getting the 243 when I click on the link.


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

mevnet said:


> And YT just announced the 2018 Jeffsy with Shimano/ TRS+ drivetrains...
> 
> YT Jeffsy 2018 - price, specs, photos, information, availability - BikeRadar


Wonder why they went with the PLUS version rather than the Race?


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

jon123 said:


> Is that with a coupon? I'm still getting the 243 when I click on the link.


They have $15 and $30 coupons, depending on how much your cart totals. I don't know how that guy got that price with those options. Enter coupons into amaincycling's search bar and the coupon codes will be shown 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Has anyone here used a Garbaruk cassette? I'm very interested if there is anything better in the large cog cassettes.


----------



## shayb (Aug 14, 2013)

Just changed back to XX1 11sp with a 9-46t (from eagle). Sram specs the B adjustment screw at around 13mm between the biggest cog and top jockey wheel. Do you guys generally adjust this smaller than 13mm? Thanks!


----------



## Xterra123 (Apr 22, 2017)

[QUOT
When I installed a new chain recently, it would skip under torque in the aluminum set, so I switched back to one of the worn ones and ordered the replacement set of cogs from bythehive, ethirteen's site and the only place I've found the parts so far.[/QUOTE]

Same thing for me too. After only 5 months of riding the new chain is skipping on the third largest cog. I always switch out my chains twice a year and pay attention to keeping things clean and lubbed up and have never seen this short of wear cycle. I am now deciding whether to scrap the ethirteen program and possibly give up a little range for a reasonable amount of wear. I know that I don't have to replace all of the cassette however even at $125:every 6 months to that will get pricy. It did work great though. Maybe if they made the 9-11 speed replacement out of steel I would have better luck.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Xterra123 said:


> Same thing for me too. After only 5 months of riding the new chain is skipping on the third largest cog. I always switch out my chains twice a year and pay attention to keeping things clean and lubbed up and have never seen this short of wear cycle. I am now deciding whether to scrap the ethirteen program and possibly give up a little range for a reasonable amount of wear. I know that I don't have to replace all of the cassette however even at $125:every 6 months to that will get pricy. It did work great though. Maybe if they made the 9-11 speed replacement out of steel I would have better luck.


It saddens me to read that you're just 5 months in and having issues, but I wonder if that's because of taking so long to change the chain. 6 months is a long time unless you rarely use the bike or if you normally ride in super clean conditions.

Do you have a chain wear checker? I'm changing chains at the 0.5% wear indicator, as recommended by Park Tool and other brands regarding 11 speed drivetrains. I learned this lesson by ruining an XX1 cassette when I waited until 0.75% wear to change a chain 

I use the Park Tool CC 3.2 to check the chain, and generally change chain every month. I typically use the Sram PC X1 or 1130 chains.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## jon123 (Oct 11, 2009)

shayb said:


> Just changed back to XX1 11sp with a 9-46t (from eagle). Sram specs the B adjustment screw at around 13mm between the biggest cog and top jockey wheel. Do you guys generally adjust this smaller than 13mm? Thanks!


Why did you switch away from Eagle?


----------



## Xterra123 (Apr 22, 2017)

Yes, evidently I too may have learned the hard way that changing chains every 6 months is not often enough however that interval was working fine with my old cassettes.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

E-13 essentially has unlimited and no questions asked warranty replacement. You can either email them or call them and they will send you right out a replacement lower gear set at no cost. It comes with a 5-year warranty and the product has only been out about a year so they don't even ask for proof of purchase.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

It use to skip for me also around the 3rd or 4th cog until i widened the b-gap a little. Try it to see if it works for you. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Xterra123 (Apr 22, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> E-13 essentially has unlimited and no questions asked warranty replacement. You can either email them or call them and they will send you right out a replacement lower gear set at no cost. It comes with a 5-year warranty and the product has only been out about a year so they don't even ask for proof of purchase.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


If that is the case that is impressive. Thanks for the info


----------



## Xterra123 (Apr 22, 2017)

jacksonlui said:


> It use to skip for me also around the 3rd or 4th cog until i widened the b-gap a little. Try it to see if it works for you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I will give that a go as well. Thx


----------



## MattMay (Dec 24, 2013)

shayb said:


> Just changed back to XX1 11sp with a 9-46t (from eagle). Sram specs the B adjustment screw at around 13mm between the biggest cog and top jockey wheel. Do you guys generally adjust this smaller than 13mm? Thanks!


More like 8mm(ish) for me on xx1 rd. Noisier and not as smooth at 13. I'm on a hardtail tho so not sure that makes a difference.


----------



## shayb (Aug 14, 2013)

jon123 said:


> Why did you switch away from Eagle?


i broke 2 XO1 eagle derailleurs in the space of 3 months.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

shayb said:


> Just changed back to XX1 11sp with a 9-46t (from eagle). Sram specs the B adjustment screw at around 13mm between the biggest cog and top jockey wheel. Do you guys generally adjust this smaller than 13mm? Thanks!


I saw a video by Wayne, from "Ride Rate Review" on YouTube in which he recommended a 50% tooth height overlap between the first cog and the upper pulley when the chain and derailleur are in the second gear. That's lots closer than what I had it at, and it's working much crisper and faster for me. I think it's close to 5 mm when in first gear.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## shayb (Aug 14, 2013)

MattMay said:


> More like 8mm(ish) for me on xx1 rd. Noisier and not as smooth at 13. I'm on a hardtail tho so not sure that makes a difference.


yeah thanks, after a few rides this is what i've found too. the lower the gap the better it shifts. i'm at the b adjustment limit and it's roughly 9mm. the up shifts are just as good as the factory stuff and the down shift are only a little off.


----------



## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

I'm running an M8000 XT SGS with matching shifter on mine. It shifts perfectly for the most part. However, when downshifting from the 3rd smallest(12) to the 2nd smallest cog(10), it hangs up. Not all the time, buy occasionally and enough for me to notice on the trails. No amount of cranking will allow me to 'force' it to shift. The derailleur definitely moves to it proper position but just stays on the 3rd smallest cog. I'd say it happens 50% of the time. 

I've re-indexed my gears, adjusted the B tension, and adjusted the clutch. Nothing seems to work.

Has this happened to anyone? I've ordered an XTR/Dura-Ace cable shifter set, as well as a Dura-Ace chain. So I hope that fixes the issue. I've even ordered a new derailleur hanger just to see if my derailleur hanger has a micro bend causing the issue.

Any help would be surely appreciated.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

*E13 Creaking Hack*

Your E13 cassette will creak over time, they suggest you disassemble and grease the 3 connection points between Aluminum and steel cogs whenever it creaks. Rather than do this, just apply grease to a cotton swab and get it in there at the connection points without disassembling anything!! Problem solved for the next 2-4 months until the creak comes back.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

bmwzimmer said:


> Your E13 cassette will creak over time, they suggest you disassemble and grease the 3 connection points between Aluminum and steel cogs whenever it creaks. Rather than do this, just apply grease to a cotton swab and get it in there at the connection points without disassembling anything!! Problem solved for the next 2-4 months until the creak comes back.


Good tip! I'll keep that in mind if a creak develops. I've been lucky so far and haven't had creaks from it.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## MegaMustang (Sep 12, 2009)

Renzo7 said:


> I saw a video by Wayne, from "Ride Rate Review" on YouTube in which he recommended a 50% tooth height overlap between the first cog and the upper pulley when the chain and derailleur are in the second gear. That's lots closer than what I had it at, and it's working much crisper and faster for me. I think it's close to 5 mm when in first gear.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


Here's the vid: 




Awesome dude!


_Matt


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Thanks for linking the video! I'm glad it was useful to you 

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Had the chance to look at the e13 next to Eagle 12 speed. Here are a few thoughts in case it helps anyone


----------



## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

General question...did e13 change the cassette (design or Manufacturing) from their original 9x46 offering?


----------



## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

bmwzimmer said:


> Your E13 cassette will creak over time, they suggest you disassemble and grease the 3 connection points between Aluminum and steel cogs whenever it creaks. Rather than do this, just apply grease to a cotton swab and get it in there at the connection points without disassembling anything!! Problem solved for the next 2-4 months until the creak comes back.


Do you mind posting a pic or even short vid of where and how you're applying the grease without disassembling? I just developed a creak last week...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

mevnet said:


> Had the chance to look at the e13 next to Eagle 12 speed. Here are a few thoughts in case it helps anyone


Nice job! Thanks for creating and sharing that review, man.

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

inonjoey said:


> Do you mind posting a pic or even short vid of where and how you're applying the grease without disassembling? I just developed a creak last week...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sure I'll try to take a picture tonight. I used to use chain lube which would last about 4-5 rides. Did this for months until it dawned on me to use grease (duh!!!)


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

Simplemind said:


> General question...did e13 change the cassette (design or Manufacturing) from their original 9x46 offering?


The original 9-46t is the TRSr which is lighter than the TRS+, the only other cassette they manufacture today. The aluminum cog cluster is a common part between the two, so if anything they have changed the way the steel cogs are machined on the TRS+ to make it cheaper to produce and reused as existing part to limit the number of SKUs they carry.


----------



## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

I think I have a faulty cassette. I have an XT drivetrain with an SGS derailleur. It doesn't shift consistently to the 10 and 9 cogs. It constantly gets hung up. Derailleur has been adjusted and indexed perfectly. And compared to my SLX cassette, it shifts like complete garbage. I replaced my chain with a Dura-Ace and my shifter cables with the Shimano OT-SP41S cables and while my shifting did improve a tiny bit, the problems still persist. On a side note, I've never had such smooth shifting on my SLX cassette until now.

I REALLY REALLY want to like this product and I really want it to work. I've contacted eThirteen about this issue and hopefully, they can assist. It sucks because it's such a great concept.

Do any of you think an Goatlink 11 would help?


----------



## mevnet (Oct 4, 2013)

almazing said:


> I think I have a faulty cassette. I have an XT drivetrain with an SGS derailleur. It doesn't shift consistently to the 10 and 9 cogs. It constantly gets hung up. Derailleur has been adjusted and indexed perfectly. And compared to my SLX cassette, it shifts like complete garbage. I replaced my chain with a Dura-Ace and my shifter cables with the Shimano OT-SP41S cables and while my shifting did improve a tiny bit, the problems still persist. On a side note, I've never had such smooth shifting on my SLX cassette until now.
> 
> I REALLY REALLY want to like this product and I really want it to work. I've contacted eThirteen about this issue and hopefully, they can assist. It sucks because it's such a great concept.
> 
> Do any of you think an Goatlink 11 would help?


At 4:05 in here you will see the shifting on the 9-46 with a Shimano drivetrain, M8000 GS derailleur. If anything is the opposite of your experience. 




How's your derailleur hanger? Assume ok since it works fine on the SLX cassette. SLX 11-46 or 11-42? How's the chain length?
New derailleurs (M6000, M7000, M8000, M9000) don't need Goatlilng anymore, that is for the 10 sped to make up for the lack of proper offset of that top jockey.


----------



## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

mevnet said:


> At 4:05 in here you will see the shifting on the 9-46 with a Shimano drivetrain, M8000 GS derailleur. If anything is the opposite of your experience.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hanger is straight. On the stand, it APPEARS to shift just fine. Quick and smooth(but not as smooth as the SLX). Though it does hang slightly, it eventually shifts to the 10 and 9 cog. I have an SLX 11-42 with a 47t extender cog. Perfect shifting in all gears even when riding. I can backpedal on the 47t cog and the chain won't drop or slip down.

It's when I ride with the eThirteen is the problem. I can get it to shift as good as it can get on a stand. But riding it is a different story. Long story short, it's not as smooth as the SLX. Which is to be expected. Shimano stuff works best with Shimano stuff. The eThirteen shifts comparatively rough, which is fine. But it just gets hung up going down to the 10 and 9 cog.

For reference, I have a Nukeproof Mega 290. XT SGS. 115 links with master link, just like stock length. Tried 113 links but it straightened the derailleur way too much at the 46t. The bike has 450mm chainstays. Not completely sure if chainstay length would affect shifting performance. I suppose I can add 2 more links, but at this point, it just doesn't seem like it would help.


----------



## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

*Greasing without dissassembly*



inonjoey said:


> Do you mind posting a pic or even short vid of where and how you're applying the grease without disassembling? I just developed a creak last week...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry for the dusty cassette.

Apply grease to a swab and rub it all over the 3 connection points between Aluminum and steel rings. As mentioned, it eliminates creaks for months at a time without actually disassembling the cassette to grease it!!


----------



## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

They’re sending me a new 9-28 piece. But instead of the Plus version, it’ll be the Race. I guess they don’t make spares for the current Plus 9-46s yet. Really hoping this fixes the issues I’ve been having.


----------



## almazing (Jul 26, 2017)

Got the replacement 9-28t in. It's a race version instead of the Plus. Definitely made a difference. It can actually shift down to the 10 and 9 cogs now! It actually shifts a little bit smoother on the steel cogs than before. Visually, they look identical. But up closer inspection, I noticed that the cogs on the Plus 9-28 are machined a little thicker than what they sent me. The spacing on the Plus from 12-10-9 is also a smidge closer together, while on the race, they are further apart and consistent. 

Not sure if my 9-28t was machined incorrectly, but it's definitely a lot better now. Still doesn’t shift as smooth as a Shimano cassette but I knew that buying this product. I’m just glad I can shift through all gear reliably now.


----------



## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

bmwzimmer said:


> Sorry for the dusty cassette.
> 
> Apply grease to a swab and rub it all over the 3 connection points between Aluminum and steel rings. As mentioned, it eliminates creaks for months at a time without actually disassembling the cassette to grease it!!
> 
> View attachment 1180520


Awesome and thank you! I just did this in preparation for tomorrow's ride, eager to get rid of the creak under power from the cassette.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CBaron (May 7, 2004)

almazing said:


> I'm just glad I can shift through all gear reliably now.


Does e13 know that this fixed your problem? I bet they'd really like to have that info.

Glad it worked out for you.

-CJB


----------



## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

inonjoey said:


> Awesome and thank you! I just did this in preparation for tomorrow's ride, eager to get rid of the creak under power from the cassette.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, this easy fix fixed about 75% of my creak. So, to get rid of that last 25%, I either put off greasing the interface too long and need to do a full disassemble and grease job, or the last bit of creak is in my bottom bracket/crank. If I'm disciplined enough, I'll do the bottom bracket/crank once-over first to see what if any of the remaining creak is coming from the cassette.


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

inonjoey said:


> Well, this easy fix fixed about 75% of my creak. So, to get rid of that last 25%, I either put off greasing the interface too long and need to do a full disassemble and grease job, or the last bit of creak is in my bottom bracket/crank. If I'm disciplined enough, I'll do the bottom bracket/crank once-over first to see what if any of the remaining creak is coming from the cassette.


I just pulled and greased both cassette and bottom bracket/crank and now I'm creak free!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I've got a brand new TRS+ 9-46 for sale that my wife tried for a ride and decided she liked her XTR more. PM me if you're interested


----------



## BrettG (Oct 19, 2017)

GuitsBoy said:


> Looks like the 17t cog has worn out a bit on mine, and is skipping under load. I changed the chain, replaced the cable and housing, and even swapped a brand new derailleur in, but nothing will hold in the 17t anymore. All other gears seem to be fine. Sent a message to e*13 and I'm waiting on a response.
> 
> SRAM GX cassette is back in action, and shifting well.


Hey I know this was a long time ago but I am having a similar issue on the 12t cog of my TRSR cassette. Major skipping under load. No other cogs have any issues. Did e13 take care of this for you? I'm emailing back and forth on this with them right now but no resolution yet.


----------



## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

BrettG said:


> Hey I know this was a long time ago but I am having a similar issue on the 12t cog of my TRSR cassette. Major skipping under load. No other cogs have any issues. Did e13 take care of this for you? I'm emailing back and forth on this with them right now but no resolution yet.


Yes they did replace the steel section. They also replaced the alloy section when I folded the big cog over. I've since put this cassette on a lesser used bike, and went eagle GX on my primary ride. I did just ride the TRSr over the weekend and it shifted flawlessly.

Anyway, the company did take care of me, and they did swear up and down that they would stand behind their product for the full 5 years. If you have another cassette you can swap out to rule out the rest of the drivetrain, that may help your cause.


----------



## BrettG (Oct 19, 2017)

GuitsBoy said:


> Yes they did replace the steel section. They also replaced the alloy section when I folded the big cog over. I've since put this cassette on a lesser used bike, and went eagle GX on my primary ride. I did just ride the TRSr over the weekend and it shifted flawlessly.
> 
> Anyway, the company did take care of me, and they did swear up and down that they would stand behind their product for the full 5 years. If you have another cassette you can swap out to rule out the rest of the drivetrain, that may help your cause.


Thanks for the update. E13 hasn't said one way or another yet on if they will replace. They are still asking questions. But to have this issue after only three months (~500 miles) is disappointing. And I can't find anyone that has the replacement steel cogs in stock. Hopefully E13 comes through.


----------



## BrettG (Oct 19, 2017)

BrettG said:


> Thanks for the update. E13 hasn't said one way or another yet on if they will replace. They are still asking questions. But to have this issue after only three months (~500 miles) is disappointing. And I can't find anyone that has the replacement steel cogs in stock. Hopefully E13 comes through.


Just wanted to update that e13 is sending me a replacement steel section after looking at my photos. I will say though that after looking at my cassette after 500 miles vs a brand new e13 cassette, the wear on the smaller cogs was dramatic. I'm hoping some changes were made since my first cassette was manufactured or this new one won't last very long either.


----------



## Burning Matches (Mar 14, 2011)

For those using a Shimano XTR M9000 derailleur with this cassette, do you use the GS or SGS long cage? E*Thirteen's site says both will work but they generally recommend the long cage for improved shifting. (I always thought a _shorter_ cage improves shifting, and a longer cage is needed mainly to manage chain length.)

Shimano's site says the GS has a capacity of 37t, which is the capacity needed for this cassette (46-9=37).

Any first-hand experiences? I am about to buy this cassette, and with it will need a new 11-speed derailleur.


----------



## ckspeed (May 25, 2012)

I use the gs xtr deraileur on the 9-46. I don’t know how smooth it should be but the gs work just fine


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I emailed e*thirteen's support, but while i'm waiting for a response I thought I'd ask about the two issues i'm having.

I have this cassette on two bikes (one mine, one a friend whose bike I help maintain). On both bikes, with different hubs, there is a fair amount of runout/lateral wobble in the cassette. I believe this is the cause of some ghost-shifting and skipping, especially under load. I wonder if this wobble could also be the cause of some of the bent sprockets I see earlier in this thread.

I should add that i'm not an idiot - I held the aluminum sprockets down very firmly while tightening the bolt. I think it's actually the way this bolt pinches only one side that *causes* the wobble.

The other issue i'm having is that on one bike (DT Swiss hub) the cassette has actually walked off the driver twice on me. I finally just overtorqued the bolt and it seems to have stopped, but it was cause for some initial frustration. 

Anyone else having these issues? These are the TRS+ cassettes.


----------



## piperpilot964 (Dec 28, 2014)

Porch said:


> I emailed e*thirteen's support, but while i'm waiting for a response I thought I'd ask about the two issues i'm having.
> 
> I have this cassette on two bikes (one mine, one a friend whose bike I help maintain). On both bikes, with different hubs, there is a fair amount of runout/lateral wobble in the cassette. I believe this is the cause of some ghost-shifting and skipping, especially under load. I wonder if this wobble could also be the cause of some of the bent sprockets I see earlier in this thread.
> 
> ...


Both of my trs cassettes are nothing but rock solid on my i9 driver and stans driver. Is the outer cassette half truly locked in place?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

Porch said:


> I emailed e*thirteen's support, but while i'm waiting for a response I thought I'd ask about the two issues i'm having.
> 
> I have this cassette on two bikes (one mine, one a friend whose bike I help maintain). On both bikes, with different hubs, there is a fair amount of runout/lateral wobble in the cassette. I believe this is the cause of some ghost-shifting and skipping, especially under load. I wonder if this wobble could also be the cause of some of the bent sprockets I see earlier in this thread.
> 
> ...


I have them on two bikes, two different hubs. DT240 and Chris King. Both no issues.


----------



## StumpyElite2010 (Feb 3, 2011)

Porch said:


> I emailed e*thirteen's support, but while i'm waiting for a response I thought I'd ask about the two issues i'm having.
> 
> I have this cassette on two bikes (one mine, one a friend whose bike I help maintain). On both bikes, with different hubs, there is a fair amount of runout/lateral wobble in the cassette. I believe this is the cause of some ghost-shifting and skipping, especially under load. I wonder if this wobble could also be the cause of some of the bent sprockets I see earlier in this thread.
> 
> ...


No offense, but it looks to me like an operator error...
The fact that both bikes exhibit the same issue is probably because YOU installed both cassettes ???
do you have an LBS you can consult with ?

I have had some issue with this cassette, (The 2 cassette portions developing a play at the interface) but never wobble or disengagement from the XD driver.
may be unrelated, but make sure that the plastic sleeve insert that sits inside the outer half of the cassette is pushed in all the way.
best way is to use a socket and give it a few taps.

On the bright side, E-thirteen's support is amazing and if there is a fault on their part, they will take care of you.

Good luck


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Turns out that, at least with the Hope hubs, you are supposed to use a shim that they don't include in the box. Going through support to get a shim mailed out. As for the DT hub, I don't know.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

StumpyElite2010 said:


> No offense, but it looks to me like an operator error...
> The fact that both bikes exhibit the same issue is probably because YOU installed both cassettes ???
> do you have an LBS you can consult with ?
> 
> ...


There just isn't anything to screw up on these things. Hold the aluminum carrier against the back and tighten the bolt. It was a brand new wheelset at the time so there wasn't even dirt to make things "difficult").


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Turns out it was operator error on my Roval hubs. I installed the cassette when it was new, but I think I must have gotten some dirt behind the cassette one of the times it slipped off. Cleaned everything really well and reinstalled, looks good now.


----------



## dlxah (Nov 5, 2014)

Is anybody else getting a clicking sound when pedaling forward on the 12 and 14 tooth cogs? It looks like the chain slightly hangs up on one of the teeth before quickly snapping back into alignment. It sounds a lot like the problem you get when backpedaling on the 9 tooth cog but not quite as severe. I just double checked my derailleur adjustments and it all looks good. I never had this problem with my Sram cassette and even the E-13 cassette still shifts fine through all of the gears, which leads me to suspect this is just a problem with the E-13 cassette.


----------



## djbutcher13 (May 16, 2015)

NEED HELP! Removed the steel cluster of my TRS Plus casette and the bushing stayed on the hub. I can't get the bushing off. Am i doing somethihg wrong?


----------



## AntonioMachine (Dec 7, 2013)

dlxah said:


> Is anybody else getting a clicking sound when pedaling forward on the 12 and 14 tooth cogs? It looks like the chain slightly hangs up on one of the teeth before quickly snapping back into alignment. It sounds a lot like the problem you get when backpedaling on the 9 tooth cog but not quite as severe. I just double checked my derailleur adjustments and it all looks good. I never had this problem with my Sram cassette and even the E-13 cassette still shifts fine through all of the gears, which leads me to suspect this is just a problem with the E-13 cassette.


I had similar problem with 10 and 39 cogs. I had to choose one of them for no sound. Finally i solved changing cable and housing


----------



## gmats (Apr 15, 2005)

djbutcher13 said:


> NEED HELP! Removed the steel cluster of my TRS Plus casette and the bushing stayed on the hub. I can't get the bushing off. Am i doing somethihg wrong?


I know the bushing fits tight but it does come off. I greased mine to make sure it would. Good luck. I wish I had some good advice on how to get it off easy.


----------



## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

djbutcher13 said:


> NEED HELP! Removed the steel cluster of my TRS Plus casette and the bushing stayed on the hub. I can't get the bushing off. Am i doing somethihg wrong?


Look up tie rod Puller at Harbor Freight......that's what I use


----------



## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

flipnidaho said:


> The TRS is not as smooth as XTR or XT (or X01 or XX1 for that matter). It's good enough to do the job however, just clunkier when going into the cogs.


I don't own 11 spd Shimano XT or XTR cassettes. The shifting of the TRS cassette with Wolftooth narrow-wide 30t, XTR 11-speed rear derailleur and GoatLink has been dead on and bombproof for ~600 miles so far (installed in January 2018).

I had been running 9-speed on 3 different bikes prior to going to 11-speed on this puppy so I know what crisp/bombproof/resilient shifting is all about (XT or XTR cassettes with both SRAM 9-speed and XTR 10-speed rear derailleurs and SRAM trigger shifters).


----------



## dlxah (Nov 5, 2014)

AntonioMachine said:


> I had similar problem with 10 and 39 cogs. I had to choose one of them for no sound. Finally i solved changing cable and housing


Thanks for the reply. I actually just put on a new cable and housing about a week ago, but it does not seem to have made any difference for me.

I wonder if the machining on these E13 cassettes just isn't as precise as the Sram cassette I used to have. Some of teeth on these cassettes are bent slightly inwards or outwards presumably to facilitate shifting, but I think one of the teeth is bent slightly too far outwards on my 14 tooth cog. I'm tempted to try just bending that one tooth back just a touch to fix the issue, but I'm a little worried it might mess my up shifts from the 14 tooth to the 12 or otherwise damage the cassette in the process.


----------



## fsrxc (Jan 31, 2004)

dlxah said:


> Thanks for the reply. I actually just put on a new cable and housing about a week ago, but it does not seem to have made any difference for me.
> 
> I wonder if the machining on these E13 cassettes just isn't as precise as the Sram cassette I used to have. Some of teeth on these cassettes are bent slightly inwards or outwards presumably to facilitate shifting, but I think one of the teeth is bent slightly too far outwards on my 14 tooth cog. I'm tempted to try just bending that one tooth back just a touch to fix the issue, but I'm a little worried it might mess my up shifts from the 14 tooth to the 12 or otherwise damage the cassette in the process.


My SRAM cassette was dropping the chain when backpedaling in the 42 cog, and the E13 (I have the 44) does not, so that cog is definitely as good or better than my SRAM was.


----------



## chuckiebruster (Dec 5, 2016)

dlxah said:


> Is anybody else getting a clicking sound when pedaling forward on the 12 and 14 tooth cogs? It looks like the chain slightly hangs up on one of the teeth before quickly snapping back into alignment. It sounds a lot like the problem you get when backpedaling on the 9 tooth cog but not quite as severe. I just double checked my derailleur adjustments and it all looks good. I never had this problem with my Sram cassette and even the E-13 cassette still shifts fine through all of the gears, which leads me to suspect this is just a problem with the E-13 cassette.


Here here! I'm getting clicking on the three smallest cogs. Not too annoying, shifts great and just goes click...click...click...click.


----------



## acedeuce802 (Jun 30, 2017)

Maybe try adjusting B-adjustment so the derailleur is a bit closer? I had clicking in the smaller cogs with my GX+E13, which eventually led to the chain dropping out of the 17 tooth cog. I had B-adjustment dialed in to SRAM recommended distance, but E13 recommended closing the gap in. It's been noise free and trouble free since.


----------



## dlxah (Nov 5, 2014)

chuckiebruster said:


> Here here! I'm getting clicking on the three smallest cogs. Not too annoying, shifts great and just goes click...click...click...click.


Yup! Mostly just a minor annoyance and maybe a marginal efficiency reduction. I'm kind of nitpicking here, but I've never had a problem like this with any of my previous cassettes (Shimano and Praxis 10 speed, Sram 11 speed).



acedeuce802 said:


> Maybe try adjusting B-adjustment so the derailleur is a bit closer? I had clicking in the smaller cogs with my GX+E13, which eventually led to the chain dropping out of the 17 tooth cog. I had B-adjustment dialed in to SRAM recommended distance, but E13 recommended closing the gap in. It's been noise free and trouble free since.


Thank you for the suggestion. I've tried adjusting the b tension and both limits on my derailleur and the barrel adjuster on my shifter. The chain was replaced around the same time as the cassette and has minimal stretch. I also just bent my derailleur hanger last week in Sedona and replaced the hanger along with my shift cable and housing. The problem still persists. I guess the next thing to try would be another derailleur, but if I'm going to do that, I feel like I might as well just cut my loses and upgrade to Eagle.

I think I'll just live with it. I do appreciate the reduced weight and increased ground clearance compared to Eagle. And it still shifts reliably. Not as smooth or quick as the Sram cassette, but like I said, I'm nitpicking here.


----------



## chuckiebruster (Dec 5, 2016)

dlxah said:


> Yup! Mostly just a minor annoyance and maybe a marginal efficiency reduction. I'm kind of nitpicking here, but I've never had a problem like this with any of my previous cassettes (Shimano and Praxis 10 speed, Sram 11 speed).
> 
> Thank you for the suggestion. I've tried adjusting the b tension and both limits on my derailleur and the barrel adjuster on my shifter. The chain was replaced around the same time as the cassette and has minimal stretch. I also just bent my derailleur hanger last week in Sedona and replaced the hanger along with my shift cable and housing. The problem still persists. I guess the next thing to try would be another derailleur, but if I'm going to do that, I feel like I might as well just cut my loses and upgrade to Eagle.
> 
> I think I'll just live with it. I do appreciate the reduced weight and increased ground clearance compared to Eagle. And it still shifts reliably. Not as smooth or quick as the Sram cassette, but like I said, I'm nitpicking here.


When I built my bike up - I was having a rough time with GX 11 spd der and a new chain. Swapped out to XT and it helped a ton - but still a small tick on the last three cogs. When i'm on the dirt, you can't hear it. I can hear it on pavement though. Its not so bad that it bothers me, but I'll try messing with the b tension again. I think we are in the same reasonable boat - I really like the cassette and a little noise isn't killing me.


----------



## scooterman (Aug 10, 2004)

Porch said:


> I emailed e*thirteen's support, but while i'm waiting for a response I thought I'd ask about the two issues i'm having.
> 
> I have this cassette on two bikes (one mine, one a friend whose bike I help maintain). On both bikes, with different hubs, there is a fair amount of runout/lateral wobble in the cassette. I believe this is the cause of some ghost-shifting and skipping, especially under load. I wonder if this wobble could also be the cause of some of the bent sprockets I see earlier in this thread.
> 
> ...


I had the same issue with a DT hub. I could pull the cassette crooked with 1 pedal stroke. Contact E13 get them to get you the old lock ring version instead and you will be good to go.


----------



## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

here's how to remove plastic spacer when removing cassette


----------



## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

Anyone had an issue with the TRS + 9-46 cassette developing a wobble on DT Swiss XD hubs? I know it doesn't have a lockring, but rather a pinch bolt. I feel like a torqued mine down a good bit but it looks like it developed a slight wobble anyway. Should I put some more muscle into it?


----------



## DubC (Oct 26, 2011)

tom erb said:


> here's how to remove plastic spacer when removing cassette


That looks pretty serious. Just use a dull flathead and gently pry it off by alternating sides.


----------



## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

DubC said:


> That looks pretty serious. Just use a dull flathead and gently pry it off by alternating sides.


If you do not have the correct tool, then yes, use a dull or even better use a super dull ( it's called a flat tip) screwdriver............


----------



## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

Dang, a TRS+ cassette is surely is hard to come by in Europe at the moment. Doesn't seem to be available in several countries till mid juli. A production change being introduced?

Need to replace the stell cogs but the 9-28t set (FWS10-108) doesn't seem listed in any shop at all.

https://eu.bythehive.com/collections/drivetrain/products/trs-cassette-parts?variant=7123623313468


----------



## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

CS645 said:


> Dang, a TRS+ cassette is surely is hard to come by in Europe at the moment. Doesn't seem to be available in several countries till mid juli. A production change being introduced?
> 
> Need to replace the stell cogs but the 9-28t set (FWS10-108) doesn't seem listed in any shop at all.
> 
> https://eu.bythehive.com/collections/drivetrain/products/trs-cassette-parts?variant=7123623313468


I suppose building up stock for this might have something to do with it:
https://m.pinkbike.com/news/review-e13-trs-plus-12-speed-upgrade-kit.html


----------



## Sebastian3 (Jun 25, 2018)

Hi everybody,

When i did some cleaning and maintenance on the bike i noticed some movement/ play between the two cassette parts ( see video ). Is this normal? I already disassembled the two parts cleaned them and locked them back together. I am going on a trip to the alps in a couple of weeks and want to get my bike in good condition.

Thanks / Greetings,

Sebastian


----------



## TrailMeat (Jul 2, 2010)

Sebastian3 said:


> Hi everybody,
> 
> When i did some cleaning and maintenance on the bike i noticed some movement/ play between the two cassette parts ( see video ). Is this normal? I already disassembled the two parts cleaned them and locked them back together. I am going on a trip to the alps in a couple of weeks and want to get my bike in good condition.
> 
> ...


Hey Sebastian, I recently had the same exact issue. ethirteen sent me a replacement cassette since it was still under warranty. I would send them a note with the video. Their customer support is excellent.


----------



## Sebastian3 (Jun 25, 2018)

TrailMeat said:


> Hey Sebastian, I recently had the same exact issue. ethirteen sent me a replacement cassette since it was still under warranty. I would send them a note with the video. Their customer support is excellent.


Hey thanks. Already sent them an email, and they will replace the casette.


----------



## shayb (Aug 14, 2013)

Sebastian3 said:


> Hey thanks. Already sent them an email, and they will replace the casette.


i've had two do exactly the same, both replaced under warranty, but my third has now started developing the same issue....


----------



## Sebastian3 (Jun 25, 2018)

shayb said:


> i've had two do exactly the same, both replaced under warranty, but my third has now started developing the same issue....


Are they all the same with the lockring mount? Or with the pinch bolt system?


----------



## shayb (Aug 14, 2013)

Sebastian3 said:


> Are they all the same with the lockring mount? Or with the pinch bolt system?


with the locking. the lockring mechanism is fine, its just that develop play in the 3 pins that lock the lower group in place.


----------



## Silent Drone (Jun 7, 2013)

I’ve had mine for a year now. Still shifts perfectly and I love the gear range. I’m running mine with an XTR M9000 trigger shifter and derailleur. I see the videos for the new XTR 12 speed and think, why? This works perfectly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## scooterman (Aug 10, 2004)

Dirt Bringer said:


> Anyone had an issue with the TRS + 9-46 cassette developing a wobble on DT Swiss XD hubs? I know it doesn't have a lockring, but rather a pinch bolt. I feel like a torqued mine down a good bit but it looks like it developed a slight wobble anyway. Should I put some more muscle into it?


yes it does not work, you need the lockring version


----------



## scooterman (Aug 10, 2004)

I came to the realization that these cassettes are not for people who actually pedal bikes. I had the lower section loosen up on the upper like the video posted here in about 10 rides. The 9T cog skips under load even with a new cassette and new chain. The whole design is flawed from the start. E13 replaced it and will replace it again or give me a credit but really there isn't anything from them i can use. I just wont use the 9T and will ride the thing till it falls off I guess.


----------



## Sebastian3 (Jun 25, 2018)

Yes i know. But i tought they upgraded the 3 pins in the version with the picnch bolt system...


----------



## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

I've had this cassette for over a year now, and I really wanted to love it, but the creaking always comes back after a few weeks of riding after servicing it. I have also had to replace the aluminum cogs because I've bent it under power while climbing. My I9 freewheel sleeve is also getting wear where the cassette probably makes contact under power. Time for something else.


----------



## flyfishermanmike (Mar 13, 2015)

Silent Drone said:


> I've had mine for a year now. Still shifts perfectly and I love the gear range. I'm running mine with an XTR M9000 trigger shifter and derailleur. I see the videos for the new XTR 12 speed and think, why? This works perfectly.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same! I rarely use all 11, let alone needing/wanting another.


----------



## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

Uly said:


> I've had this cassette for over a year now, and I really wanted to love it, but the creaking always comes back after a few weeks of riding after servicing it. I have also had to replace the aluminum cogs because I've bent it under power while climbing. My I9 freewheel sleeve is also getting wear where the cassette probably makes contact under power. Time for something else.


Same problem-the noise comes back after just a few rides. FWIW, I reached out to E-13 and they sent me a new cassette as a warranty replacement.


----------



## ach78 (Sep 9, 2018)

Hi,

I've had the same wobble issue with my TRS+ 9-46 cassette on my Jeffsy. The wobble was significant enough to make a perfect derailleur setting impossible.

I reached E13, they first sent me some shims. The darn thing was a nightmare to slide under the pinch-collar, and when I did succeed in sliding it the collar snapped upon tightening (though I used a torque wrench).

I reported this to E13 and they sent me the replacement large cogs portion of the cassette, old design. The one with the screw-on bolt. IMO it is just clearly a better design.

Thumbs up for E13 support on warranty matters. As for the new pinch collar design, I think it is flawed. At the very least it should have 2 opposing tightening screws on the collar making it possible to adjust a wobbling cassette.


----------



## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

SteveF said:


> Same problem-the noise comes back after just a few rides. FWIW, I reached out to E-13 and they sent me a new cassette as a warranty replacement.


Their service is pretty good. No complaints there. The rubbing on the sleeve and the wear it does has me a bit disappointed. Thats where all the creaking comes from in my case. For my weight (about 220 lbs geared up) I am going to need something structurally stronger. Sunrace looks promising.


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

My Jeffsy came with the lock ring version of the cassette. It lasted about 800 miles. I only had to disassemble, clean and re-grease everything once to stop the creak. I really like the range so I bought the pinch bolt version as a replacement. It was very difficult to get the cassette fully on the XD freehub on my DT Swiss wheels. It is basically an interference fit. I actually had to remove the freehub body from the wheel and use a mallet to drive it fully into the cassette. Beyond that I snapped the pinch collar on 2 brand new cassettes even though I was using a torque wrench. e*13 customer service is top notch and they sent me 2 replacement aluminum carrier sections of the cassette but I tend to agree with the sentiment that there is a flaw in the design.


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

Guys,

I have this problem when installing the newer revise pinch bolt version of this cassette. The last 2 pcs cog couldn't align or straight after I tighten the pinch bolt to the recommended torque (4nm) to the i9 XD drive hub. Anyone have this problem on this combo? I suspect I need to insert a shims to solve this problem because when I insert the cassette to the hub body it does slide in easily without any frictions.

I tried insert it to DTswiss XD hub drive and it fit a bit tight while sliding it into place and it align properly after tightening the pinch bolt. Here is the video of the problem:


----------



## Purdue22 (Dec 22, 2016)

I would call e13 for help, their customer service is second to none. I too like the idea and range of their cassettes; however, after riding through two 9-46 this last year I will not rebuy until they make some changes to make them better.... Good luck.


----------



## ach78 (Sep 9, 2018)

Pretty massive wobble. If the back side is clean and we’ll seated onto the XD teeth (like mine was) then it’s just another demonstration of a problematic design. They will probably send you shims (which didn’t work for me).


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

Purdue22 said:


> I would call e13 for help, their customer service is second to none. I too like the idea and range of their cassettes; however, after riding through two 9-46 this last year I will not rebuy until they make some changes to make them better.... Good luck.


Yes, I have sent an email to them and now is holiday seasons. they have an auto reply they will come back to me early next year.


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

ach78 said:


> Pretty massive wobble. If the back side is clean and we'll seated onto the XD teeth (like mine was) then it's just another demonstration of a problematic design. They will probably send you shims (which didn't work for me).


The xd teeth is fully clean and seated but I notice there is a play before I tighten the pinch bolt whereas is a snug fit insertion on the dtswiss xd drive before tighten it. I guess i9 xd drive size is few mm lesser in diameter than others xd drive too. Oh well... I just need to wait until e13 come back to me on this issues.

Do you have this combo as well with i9 torch hub xd drive?


----------



## dreys (Jan 21, 2014)

Duduhugo said:


> Guys,
> 
> I have this problem when installing the newer revise pinch bolt version of this cassette. The last 2 pcs cog couldn't align or straight after I tighten the pinch bolt to the recommended torque (4nm) to the i9 XD drive hub. Anyone have this problem on this combo? I suspect I need to insert a shims to solve this problem because when I insert the cassette to the hub body it does slide in easily without any frictions.
> 
> I tried insert it to DTswiss XD hub drive and it fit a bit tight while sliding it into place and it align properly after tightening the pinch bolt. Here is the video of the problem:


I've seen this issue with older I9 hubs. Newer I9 hubs work perfectly fine with pinch-bolt cogs.

Get in touch with E13, hopefully they have a fix without you getting a new freehub.


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

Little update on the issue I facing with the i9 xd drive with e13 cassette. After contacting e13, they did ask me to contact i9 to get a replacement for the xd driver because the circumference of the hub is not up to the standard spec license by SRAM. With the help of my local bike shop, I got the caliper to measure both old and new xd driver to compare. The result is very clear that the old xd driver by i9 is 1mm lesser than the new one.








The old i9 measures 30mm in diameter








The new i9 xd driver measure 31mm

I have emailed i9 and waiting for them to sort this out for me.


----------



## ach78 (Sep 9, 2018)

According to this XR drive spec sheet, this area should actually be 30.7mm +- 0.03

A mis-sized OD of this area will definitely impact the cassette wobble with this pinch collar design, which IMO proves it is inferior (in that regard anyway) to the old bolt-on design which couldn't care less about what the OD of this portion is. The bolt would just press the cassette flat against the XD drive (teeth portion).

Good luck !


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

I just ordered a set of i9 Enduro 305s. I still have plenty of life left on my e*13 cassette so hopefully it fits on the new wheels. I'm not really looking forward to possibly dropping another $500 on an Eagle drive train.


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

I just got the xd driver replacement from i9. If you have the same issues like I do, do give them a ring or email them. Their customer support will be able to help you.


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

Just got my i9 wheels this afternoon. The e*13 cassette mounted right up to the Torch freehub body with no issues. In fact, it fit better on these hubs than it did on my old DT Swiss wheels with 370 hubs.


----------



## budgie (May 14, 2004)

Duduhugo said:


> I just got the xd driver replacement from i9. If you have the same issues like I do, do give them a ring or email them. Their customer support will be able to help you.


Dumb question maybe, but I'm assuming with the new i9 XD driver the pinch-bolt cassette install worked okay?


----------



## Duduhugo (Dec 9, 2018)

budgie said:


> Dumb question maybe, but I'm assuming with the new i9 XD driver the pinch-bolt cassette install worked okay?


Yes, is perfectly fine now after I install the new i9 XD driver body with the pinch bolt version of the cassette


----------



## Uly (Aug 18, 2009)

Adding another data point. I have a set of Santa Cruz Reserve 30s, XD drive I9 hub purchased on dec 2017. I originally had the lock nut version of the E13 cassette mated to it. Could not resolve the creaking long term. Got the pinch bolt version and it fit on the driver like a glove. No more creaking issue.


----------



## scooterman (Aug 10, 2004)

This cassette needs to go extinct


----------



## Junersun (Jun 10, 2014)

scooterman said:


> This cassette needs to go extinct


Man I keep following this thread and it makes me concerned about buying one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Burning Matches (Mar 14, 2011)

Junersun said:


> Man I keep following this thread and it makes me concerned about buying one.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nonsense. I converted my bike to 1x11 last year, put one on my bike and it's been flawless.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

Mine is about to reach 1 year and 10 months, with 4,100 km on it. Working really well, and on its second aluminum cluster at this moment. The first, original, aluminum cluster, lasted a bit over 2,100 km before new chains started skipping on it.



Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk


----------



## bootsie_cat (Nov 3, 2004)

I have been using the 9-46 12 speed E13 for a couple months. It is better than the Eagle XX1 in terms of shift performance (if that is saying anything).
Also- the gear ratio is better for me- I always thought the jump from 42 to 50 was too large on the Eagle.


----------



## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

What I used on mine to stop all noise is Bendix disc brake lube. I ride 4-5 times a week and 15-20 miles per ride. The lube I have is kind of like a thick peanut butter and last for months. I look for any shiny spots and apply some at every location and no more noise............


----------



## x-rated (Jan 1, 2019)

Renzo7 said:


> The first, original, aluminum cluster, lasted a bit over 2,100 km before new chains started skipping on it.


On the smallest sprocket? Which chain and how long was it on?


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

bootsie_cat said:


> I have been using the 9-46 12 speed E13 for a couple months. It is better than the Eagle XX1 in terms of shift performance (if that is saying anything).
> Also- the gear ratio is better for me- I always thought the jump from 42 to 50 was too large on the Eagle.


I have never ridden Eagle and I have no desire to try it. I am running 11 speeds and am totally fine with that. The e*13 cassette is significantly lighter, has (slightly) better range, is easier to set up, and shift quality is great. I know there were production issues in the beginning but I think these cassettes are pretty reliable at this point. Mine never creaks. I don't have an issue removing or installing it. The aluminum cogs do wear somewhat quickly but they are replaceable separately from the steel cogs. When you factor that in the cost of replacement is a lot lower than some others have suggested.


----------



## x-rated (Jan 1, 2019)

you are considering a 20g lighter cassette as benefit with such a drastically reduced lifetime?


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

x-rated said:


> On the smallest sprocket? Which chain and how long was it on?


The three largest (46, 39, and 33) are the aluminum sprockets. The small sprocket (9T) has rarely skipped, and only under sprinting power.

I've used several chains on this cassette. Typically it's the Sram PC X1 or the KMC 11.93, though I've used Sram 1130 a couple of times when the others were out of stock at the LBS.

Most of my chains last 500 to 700 km before getting to the 0.5% wear indicator on a Park Tool CC 3.2 gauge, which is when I replace them and store them. Once a new chain starts skipping on the steel cluster, I'll start using the worn chains from 0.5% wear to 0.75%.

I wore through the aluminum sprocket on a Sram XX1 cassette with its first chain by waiting until the 0.75% point to change it. New chains skip on it under normal climbing power. That was an expensive lesson for me.

Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk


----------



## x-rated (Jan 1, 2019)

but you wrote: "original, aluminum cluster, lasted a bit over 2,100 km before new chains started skipping on it."

so i assume you mean aluminium sprockets on e13 where chain was skipping, so which of those?


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

x-rated said:


> but you wrote: "original, aluminum cluster, lasted a bit over 2,100 km before new chains started skipping on it."
> 
> so i assume you mean aluminium sprockets on e13 where chain was skipping, so which of those?


I named them in my post. The aluminum cluster is the set of the 46, 39, and 33T sprockets, which can be replaced as a set, because they are one piece.

The rest of the cassette is one piece made from steel.

Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk


----------



## x-rated (Jan 1, 2019)

No you didnt mention which one of the 3 was worn.


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

x-rated said:


> you are considering a 20g lighter cassette as benefit with such a drastically reduced lifetime?


These are claimed weights from the internet:
GX Eagle 10-50T 12 speed cassette: 448g
e*13 TRS+ 9-46T 11 speed cassette: 339g

You can double check my math but 448-339=109 which is just a little more than 20.

I am not going to compare XO1 or XX1 due to cost.


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

x-rated said:


> No you didnt mention which one of the 3 was worn.


The chain started skipping on all 3 of the lowest gears, man. It was more noticeable in the 33T, but it was still happening in the 39 and the 46 when doing powerful climbing. I use all three quite frequently while climbing, so they wore fairly evenly.

Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk


----------



## x-rated (Jan 1, 2019)

ok thats really unexpected, that all 3 sprockets make problem on such low mileage


----------



## Renzo7 (Mar 25, 2015)

x-rated said:


> ok thats really unexpected, that all 3 sprockets make problem on such low mileage


I don't have enough experience with other cassettes to compare based on my experience, but it does sound like it's less than what others are getting.

I ride in a tropical climate and frequently ride through rivers and Sandy territory, so that accelerates wear. I try to clean the chain almost every week, and after every particularly gritty ride.

I weigh 190 lbs without gear, and my bike is around 30 lbs. Not incredibly heavy, but definitely not a lightweight.

Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk


----------



## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

New 9-50t TRS+ 12-speed and updated TRS+ 9-46t 11-speed.

Apparently improved shifting and only the biggest cog is alu now on the 11-speed. Personally I reckon that is an improvement. Weight 398g and 390g respectively.

https://www.vitalmtb.com/news/press...e-546-9-50T-TRS-Cassette-from-e-thirteen,2711


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Went back to my xx1 10-42 and it shifts so much better. Never gonna buy anothet e13 cassette. Doesnt last long before it slips off the climbing cogs. For some reason the teeth on the large cogs bends.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Verbl Kint (Feb 14, 2013)

Currently using this drivetrain:

• e*thirteen TRS+ 9-46 cogs (older version, with 3 aluminum plates)
• XTR m9100 medium cage RD
• XTR m9100 shifter (set to 12 speed)
• XTR m9020 cranks (165mm)
• KMC X11EL chain

Just did a short XC ride yesterday + 3 DH runs, totalling about 16 km (10 miles) in all.

Shifting works great but I did get hung up shifting to the 33t and 39t cog a couple of times. I find this weird since going to the 46t has been smooth. Any ideas to make shifting smoother?

Sent using Tapatalk


----------



## wired4funjag (Jun 27, 2020)

*Stick with OEM Consistently*

I have owned five of these cassettes from e-13. Both gen 1 and Gen 2. I had 12 speed and 10 speed cassette. On two different bikes using both Shimano and SRAM drive trains. Every single one of these cassettes sucked and had skipping problems shifting problems no matter how many times I either messed with it myself or took it to an LBS. With my SRAM set up I replaced three cassettes with SRAM XTR and SRAM Force cassettes. Shifting problems went away have never come back. Shifting is flawless like butter. Even when I switch wheelsets with different cassette ranges 10-33 to 10-50 no issues minimal to no adjustments needed. With my Shimano set up I replaced the two e thirteen cassettes with 11-36 and 11-50. Again shifting is flawless like butter. There is a reason sticking with the same OEM components works the best. I am selling all of my e-13 cassettes if anyone is interested. I will never go back to those.


----------



## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

wired4funjag said:


> I have owned five of these cassettes from e-13. Both gen 1 and Gen 2. I had 12 speed and 10 speed cassette. On two different bikes using both Shimano and SRAM drive trains. Every single one of these cassettes sucked and had skipping problems shifting problems no matter how many times I either messed with it myself or took it to an LBS. With my SRAM set up I replaced three cassettes with SRAM XTR and SRAM Force cassettes. Shifting problems went away have never come back. Shifting is flawless like butter. Even when I switch wheelsets with different cassette ranges 10-33 to 10-50 no issues minimal to no adjustments needed. With my Shimano set up I replaced the two e thirteen cassettes with 11-36 and 11-50. Again shifting is flawless like butter. There is a reason sticking with the same OEM components works the best. I am selling all of my e-13 cassettes if anyone is interested. I will never go back to those.


Bummer, I must have gotten lucky. I've got one bike setup with 11-speed xt/xtr, and I'm using a gen 2 9-46. It shifts great, and never jumps around even when riding in the wet. It replaced a 10-42 xx1 cassette and I fully expected some loss in smoothness/precision but I haven't found that to be the case to any appreciable degree. These cassettes seem to get a lot of mixed reviews but I've been really pleasantly surprised by how well it's worked for me.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

I must have gotten lucky too. I've been running the same 11-speed (9-46 cassette/Slx derailleur) since September 2018 with no issues. No dropped chains, jumped teeth and shifts perfectly for me. Of course, I do service it regularly. Shimano has been real good for me too. I've had more problems with Eagle than anything else. 

And you're right, people either love them or hate them. It's that way a lot with e*thirteen products I've noticed.

Fortunately there are quite a few alternatives available.


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

wired4funjag said:


> I have owned five of these cassettes from e-13. Both gen 1 and Gen 2. I had 12 speed and 10 speed cassette. On two different bikes using both Shimano and SRAM drive trains. Every single one of these cassettes sucked and had skipping problems shifting problems no matter how many times I either messed with it myself or took it to an LBS. With my SRAM set up I replaced three cassettes with SRAM XTR and SRAM Force cassettes. Shifting problems went away have never come back. Shifting is flawless like butter. Even when I switch wheelsets with different cassette ranges 10-33 to 10-50 no issues minimal to no adjustments needed. With my Shimano set up I replaced the two e thirteen cassettes with 11-36 and 11-50. Again shifting is flawless like butter. There is a reason sticking with the same OEM components works the best. I am selling all of my e-13 cassettes if anyone is interested. I will never go back to those.


I agree. I really wanted to like the e13 cassette and I stuck with it for a couple years going through 4 or 5 of them. Just got a new whip with Eagle on it and looking back I can't believe I didn't ditch the e13 cassette a long time ago. They really are complete garbage and shift like complete ****.


----------



## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

wired4funjag said:


> I have owned five of these cassettes from e-13. Both gen 1 and Gen 2. I had 12 speed and 10 speed cassette. On two different bikes using both Shimano and SRAM drive trains. Every single one of these cassettes sucked and had skipping problems shifting problems no matter how many times I either messed with it myself or took it to an LBS. With my SRAM set up I replaced three cassettes with SRAM XTR and SRAM Force cassettes. Shifting problems went away have never come back. Shifting is flawless like butter. Even when I switch wheelsets with different cassette ranges 10-33 to 10-50 no issues minimal to no adjustments needed. With my Shimano set up I replaced the two e thirteen cassettes with 11-36 and 11-50. Again shifting is flawless like butter. There is a reason sticking with the same OEM components works the best. I am selling all of my e-13 cassettes if anyone is interested. I will never go back to those.


Wow... that sucks!

I ran a gen1 successfully though 3 chain swaps on my Scott FS 29er and retired it for a gen2 a couple of months ago (on a DT Swiss 240s hub). Both cassettes have shifted very well (Shimano XTR GS derailleur with GoatLink 11 installed and Wolftooth 30t narrow wide ring). I beat the crap out of the gen1 on four-season rides including winter snow and ice plus a few muddy dunkfest MTB races. 4th from big eventually started slipping; all other gears remained solid.


----------



## GT87 (Mar 18, 2014)

sptimmy43 said:


> They really are complete garbage and shift like complete ****.


I really don't understand how we could have such vastly different experiences. I've ridden all the nice stuff for 20 years... X.o, xx1, xtr, etc., and I have no regrets now with going to the e13 9-46 from a fresh xx1 cassette. Complete garbage that shifts like complete ****? Not even close. Are you guys sure you know how to tune a drivetrain? Wired4funjags remark about "messing with it" or taking it to a lbs leads me to believe the answer is probably not.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

GT87 said:


> I really don't understand how we could have such vastly different experiences. I've ridden all the nice stuff for 20 years... X.o, xx1, xtr, etc., and I have no regrets now with going to the e13 9-46 from a fresh xx1 cassette. Complete garbage that shifts like complete ****? Not even close. Are you guys sure you know how to tune a drivetrain? Wired4funjags remark about "messing with it" or taking it to a lbs leads me to believe the answer is probably not.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk


I'm glad yours is working out for you but that doesn't invalidate my experience. I can't speak to anyone else's knowledge or skillset but I am very competent in setting up a drivetrain. The bike I was using this on was a 2018 YT Jeffsy with both DT Swiss and i9 wheels/freehubs. In total I put over 4,000 miles on that bike with the e13 cassette. I wore out 4 aluminum sections and swapped the steel section once. I was using an XTR derailleur and shifter with an XX1 chain.

On both sets of wheels the cassette had a wobble. e13 warrantied it more than once but I eventually gave up going that route as the replacements wobbled, too. Yes, the cassette was fully seated on the freehub. Anyway, if shifting was good at one end of the cassette it was less than great on the other. The 9t cog was always hit or miss. I even bought the Park Tool derailleur hanger alignment tool to rule out a bent hanger as being the culprit. It wasn't. I stuck with it for over 2 years. I wanted to like the cassette. For the price, you can't beat the range and weight.

In my experience, which is clearly different than yours, my new bike with XO1 Eagle shifts like a dream. It really is a huge difference. And the new bike is a YT Izzo so I had to build and set that one up myself, too. It's flawless.

For what it's worth, YT has been putting e13 parts on their bikes for years until recently. You aren't going to find this cassette on any of their new bikes. I wonder why that is?


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I enjoyed the shifting of the E13 cassette okay but especially the range of the E13 cassettes was really nice. And their warranty was great, which was good as I utilized it every few weeks. 
They don't hold up, at all. They didn't hold up for multiple friends as well.
I ran an XX1 and X01 for some time and they are set, and forget. Much better. 
I did just install a Leonardi with only 1st gear is Al and this is really a high quality unit with shifting that matches a fresh XX1 cassette but with better range, nicer gear spreads, and better looks than the XX1.


Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## DubC (Oct 26, 2011)

sptimmy43 said:


> For what it's worth, YT has been putting e13 parts on their bikes for years until recently. You aren't going to find this cassette on any of their new bikes. I wonder why that is?


This is due to the fact that SRAM forces OEM customers to buy complete drivetrains with 12s Eagle whereas with their older 11s components bike companies could purchase individual components to mix and match. Also, with 12s shimano, they finally have reasonably designed wide range cassettes without the huge jump up to the 46. So there are both less options and less incentives for OEM to use non-S branded cassettes.


----------



## benjpi (Mar 25, 2020)

Just got done fighting with a 9-50 Ethirteen cassette. It would NOT cooperate with an Eagle X01 AXS setup. If I got it to shift between the 50 and 42 then it would not shift correctly on the harder gears and vice versa. I struggled with it for 4 hours, re-installing it once, playing with B-tension with the AXS gage and outside of those parameters, all with no success. I had to use 4-5 micro-adjust clicks at either end between the "works up top" and "works down low" setups - about 1mm of movement. 


I eventually pulled it back off and put the X01 stuff back on. At this point I'm not happy with the cassette and am trying to return it.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

I've heard that issue with the 50. Consensus is the 46t with a smaller front ring is the way to go.


----------



## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I think 9-46 is the same.
I adjust a click on the cable so it would go up a gear, wouldn't go down on another gear and vice versa. 9 cog is 50/50. 80/20 if i double down shift from 3rd lowest cog.
This is the warrantied replacement version 

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


----------



## e*thirteen (Jun 26, 2018)

benjpi said:


> Just got done fighting with a 9-50 Ethirteen cassette. It would NOT cooperate with an Eagle X01 AXS setup. If I got it to shift between the 50 and 42 then it would not shift correctly on the harder gears and vice versa. I struggled with it for 4 hours, re-installing it once, playing with B-tension with the AXS gage and outside of those parameters, all with no success. I had to use 4-5 micro-adjust clicks at either end between the "works up top" and "works down low" setups - about 1mm of movement.
> 
> I eventually pulled it back off and put the X01 stuff back on. At this point I'm not happy with the cassette and am trying to return it.


Hey Benjpi,
Sorry to hear about the trouble with the setup using AXS. While the vast majority of customers seem to have no problem setting up AXS with the TRS+ Cassette, we have had a handful of reports which describe the issue you experienced. Most often this occurs on gravel bikes with shorter chainstays. We have tried but been unable to replicate the problem internally. The TRS+ Cassette was developed before the AXS system came out so AXS was not part of the testing regiment.

With the new Helix cassette, we did spend ample time testing on AXS. Also the reviewer on another MTB website did the majority of his Helix testing using AXS. We have not had any reports of similar issues with the Helix cassette and are confident that some shift feature improvements and other changes to the Helix have addressed that issue.

Cheers,

e*thirteen


----------



## e*thirteen (Jun 26, 2018)

benjpi said:


> Just got done fighting with a 9-50 Ethirteen cassette. It would NOT cooperate with an Eagle X01 AXS setup. If I got it to shift between the 50 and 42 then it would not shift correctly on the harder gears and vice versa. I struggled with it for 4 hours, re-installing it once, playing with B-tension with the AXS gage and outside of those parameters, all with no success. I had to use 4-5 micro-adjust clicks at either end between the "works up top" and "works down low" setups - about 1mm of movement.
> 
> I eventually pulled it back off and put the X01 stuff back on. At this point I'm not happy with the cassette and am trying to return it.


Hey Benjpi,
Sorry to hear about the trouble with the install. The vast majority of ASX users with our TRS+ cassettes have reported no issues, but we have had a handful of reports about the issue you are describing. We have been unable to replicate in internally but we are continuing to try on different bikes. For some reason, possibly short CS length, the issue is most often reported on gravel bikes. The TRS+ cassette was developed before AXS was released on the market so it was not included in the original compatibility testing when the TRS+ cassette was in development.

We did include AXS testing extensively with our Helix cassette on both MTB and gravel bike setups and are confident that changes made to shift features (among other things) have addressed that issue. The testing done by another mtb website on the helix was almost exclusively on AXS when it was being tested with a Sram drivetrain. No issues were reported there either.

Let us know if you have any trouble returning it and we can help figure something out for you.

Cheers,

Chris


----------



## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

Anyone going to try the helix?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


----------

