# 69er Scott Spark <21lbs



## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*Scott Spark 1x10 lefty 19.20lbs*

LATEST (Feb/2015): 18.98lbs


FIRST POST OF THIS THREAD:
Lime bucket to mach. So HERE IT IS!!! 2011 Scott Spark 10 frame Large '69er'...20.9 pounds as pictures, with heavy pedals!

Initially I got this bike used on ebay, converted to 1x10, did a overall in my garage ... sweet ride! .... but as we know the temptations are huge to go further and pursue our dream bike. I'm fairly cheap, refuse myself to spend stratospheric $$$$ for crazy light parts...so I try to find smart and cheap solutions with what I have in front of me. My goal is to hit 20lbs and you can help me if you have ideas.



before, opening the UPS box: 23.19lbs


Upgrades:
-ZTR crest's 26er and 29er
-Racing Ralph's TL
-lefty carbon XLR 90mm 29er XL clamps - now I'm running with 100mm, one spacer out.
-Project321 lefty adapter
-Scrub's rotor 160/160 with china red bolts
-Replaced the caliper's to Juicy Ultimate, had them in my garage in better cosmetic shape than the XX coming with the bike (levers are still XX)
-Grip shift XX 10 speed on left side
-Home made chainguide (46g)
-MRP 36t chainring.
-pedal boots
-KMC X10SL Gold chain
-new pulley set/inner cage



control center, all controled by left hand (rear susp remote is on right side)


Scrub's rotor with Juicy ultimate, need to upgrade the caliper bolts


Seatpost Ritchey 400mm (217.75g) + Fizik saddle (157.9) = 375.65g. I'm considering doing this to save some weight:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=112588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



new pulleys 14.45g/set


Homemade chainguide, 46g with clamp and bolt


Clean cockpit, with twinlock under the handlebar on the right


And finally, I'm undecided if I print the 21lbs sticker right now, or wait for later and use the 20lbs one. 


....HAHA, almost forgot, now its ok for you the get jealous, my leg weight is 946g. That's why I still use the Shimano heavy pedals, is the easiest to take my prosthetic off so far...any ideas? Ritchey V5 might be as easy? I would save 123g to Ritchey's.


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## gabe3eb (Mar 18, 2012)

Very nice setup. Do you think you need the full shoe sole on the prosthetic? Might be able to shave a few grams from that heel! Would love to see some more details on the prosthetic.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

that's actually a soft foam, for trails I like having surface area to step on rocks, climbing with the bike on my back....its important to keep it that way. That is a very light leg, no more room for more weight saving but on the bike I still have some more options! thanks


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## Ramjm_2000 (Jan 29, 2005)

Excellent build, well done!


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## ginsu2k (Jul 28, 2006)

Awesome. You must be able to spin at high cadence with such a light-weight prosthetic. I think that is the Pistorius Advantage...rotational inertia is greatly reduced....pretty big advantage on a bike. It would be interesting to see if you would be more efficient with higher cadence, because not a lot of people can keep it up. Sorta like the difference between a diesel and a gas motor and engine RPM. Maybe you wouldn't need as many gears because you are like the free revving, lightweight gas engine....like MotoGP.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*..*

I like the chain guide - looks professional. (Some homebrew stuff looks craptastic.)

You also get +37.5 points for finding a bucket that matches the color highlights on your bike.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

With new stem Ritchey 100mm 17degrees to compensate the angle after the 29er upgrade. Definitely an improvement during my rides.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

ginsu2k said:


> Awesome. You must be able to spin at high cadence with such a light-weight prosthetic. I think that is the Pistorius Advantage...rotational inertia is greatly reduced....pretty big advantage on a bike. It would be interesting to see if you would be more efficient with higher cadence, because not a lot of people can keep it up. Sorta like the difference between a diesel and a gas motor and engine RPM. Maybe you wouldn't need as many gears because you are like the free revving, lightweight gas engine....like MotoGP.


Good analogy, my best is going UP ended! bike is light, I am light 147(67KG) but I'd say the rules are the same for us and able body people; the more endurance and athletic skills you have the better you'll perform out there. I don't really see any advantage spinning faster to be honest. I don't really want to bring it up Pistorius case for many reasons...like...I'm over it! its been the only subject every time someone talks to me and I support the idea and believe that he doesn't have advantages. Also.....bad and negative commercial lately! lets talks about my super bike!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> I like the chain guide - looks professional. (Some homebrew stuff looks craptastic.)
> 
> You also get +37.5 points for finding a bucket that matches the color highlights on your bike.


No chain drop at all so far, works really well! bucket was laying around from my daughter, what a destiny hum!? it was made for my bike!


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## fondoo (Sep 5, 2012)

wow, i am very impressed


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## broadwayline (Jan 19, 2008)

Stay away from Ritchey V5 pedals and go with Xpedo's - I almost broke my ankle / have had tones of phantom pull outs on my V5's

If you still want some V5's I have a pair of new ones with only 10 rides on them I'll sell you for 20 bucks + shipping


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

---


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

broadwayline said:


> Stay away from Ritchey V5 pedals and go with Xpedo's - I almost broke my ankle / have had tones of phantom pull outs on my V5's
> 
> If you still want some V5's I have a pair of new ones with only 10 rides on them I'll sell you for 20 bucks + shipping


WOW...Xpedo's are even lighter than V5?!...that's nice.

The thing is; on my prosthetic side I NEED to release my leg easily. On my current shima's all I need to do is to spread my knees out and I'm off, I don't need to rotate my ankle as usual (I can't rotate with my prosthetic fast enough in case of panic). Do you believe I can do this with the V5 of Xpedo? I might be interested on your V5's.


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

dude... this is too awesome. especially WW on your last component.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

bob13bob said:


> dude... this is too awesome. especially WW on your last component.


Thanks


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Did some some work lately, 77g shaved on the bike, and 109g on my ' Race day emergency kit' (C02+Tube Race day).

Here is a list of small jobs:

-Barend plugs ESI+Scott top cap+bolt (16g) TO all carbon plugs/ top cap with adapter for pump (15g); -1 (pictures below, I liked it!!!)
-No StarNut; -10
-Grip change from ESI 'Chunky' (60g) to ESI Racer's Edge" (50g); -10
-Twinloc(47g)+cable(5.30g)+housing(22.45g)=(75g) to Twinloc (43)+Alligator(14g) and shorter cable (61.3);	-13.7
-XO crankarm drive side sanding; -10
-XO crankarm non drive side sanding; -10
-Ritchey stem original boltset (6 total) (23g) to Ti bolts (12g); -11
-Look bottle cage sanding; -2
-Ritchey Seatpost bolts (14) to Torx ti bolts pair (5)	-9
*TOTAL shaved: 77g*

EMERGENGY KIT RACE DAY

*BEFORE*
-Tube (173g)+Velcros(3g); 176g
-Big Air 40g Co2+holder/zip ties; 99g
-Tire levers; 20g
Total=295g

*AFTER*
-Continental Supersonic Tube 26x1.9-2.1mm (87g) + bag(6g); 93g
-Innovations Fat20 Co2 20g + rubber cover; 73g
-Tire levers; 20g
total=186g

*total shaved*: 109g


new topcap full carbon with American classic tubeless valve cut to thread onto CO2 adapter


Removing the Star Nut I have full clearance to fit the C02, fitting is perfect!


For everyday use off race, Topeak Micro Rocket Carbon Pump fits perfect on 1/18 steertube



Co2 setup is heavier  



New tube much smaller too



tire levers fits perfect on slot originaly made for the "Fizik plastic logo"

Since It was very hard to find on-line the Twinloc 'real' weight, here it is. 

I removed the blue lever for the front susp, my lefty is the XLR.

Plugs Before

Plugs After


Tube under the saddle


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Now that is some true weight weenie action! Where did you shave the crank arms? Will taking out the star nut have any negative effects?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Just took the clear coat out of crank arms, they were used anyways and quite ugly spots. As I have a lefty fork, the upper lefty clamp plus stem bolts are already a solid tight. Star nut is unnecessary


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

would an xx1 crank save you any weight? Supposedly with the xx1 rings you wouldnt need the chain guide. Alternately a wolf tooth ring. 

Neither are cheap though..


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Wolthtooth 36t it's on my 'To Do' list, still not available! It will save 16g from mrp 36t and less 46g from chain guide. But I'm still a little skeptical about the complete drop stop effect, perhaps with a xtr shadow plus rear der would assist the ring?!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I was just now out for a ride test....nasty and rocky down hills,Co2 stayed tight inside, no play.... and I even helped a random guy in need of a pump...solved his problem in 1min and back to the ride!


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

That's awesome. Great post.


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## HDTVdevil (Nov 16, 2011)

*Re: 69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Love it!
Mostly I want to know where I can get some cool custom stickers for my ride


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

?? totally into the topic! Lol. I like to spend time working on Corel Draw 11 making stickers as well.


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Perhaps I can commission you to make me some


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

andrepsz said:


> Wolthtooth 36t it's on my 'To Do' list, still not available! It will save 16g from mrp 36t and less 46g from chain guide. But I'm still a little skeptical about the complete drop stop effect, perhaps with a xtr shadow plus rear der would assist the ring?!


Yep, a clutched rear derailleur is req for the Wolf tooth setup. I think they are slightly heavier than non-clutched equivalents, but hadn't searched too much.

BTW, the stem/steerer storage is brilliant, but you scared the crap out of me when I saw the mention of no star nut! Didn't realize you had the Lefty.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> Yep, a clutched rear derailleur is req for the Wolf tooth setup. I think they are slightly heavier than non-clutched equivalents, but hadn't searched too much.
> 
> BTW, the stem/steerer storage is brilliant, but you scared the crap out of me when I saw the mention of no star nut! Didn't realize you had the Lefty.


All I know available is the XTR shadow plus long cage (213g) and Sram X0 type 2 medium cage (235g).....both are pretty heavy comparing to my XX long cage(174g). So the change would not affect weight it self...still thinking if it's worth.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

speedneeder said:


> Perhaps I can commission you to make me some


Tell me what you want!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

More saving: -186g total.

Some Stock bolts to all Ti: -12g


-2g (there is two more in this pic.


Lefty Stock Boot (45g) to neoprene chain-stay protector from Scott (20g): -28






I still need to test ansd see how the neoprene handles.

Shima pedals to Xpedo's: -146g


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Cool, what is total weight now?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Should be at 9217g bike only with a 29er front. Switching to my 26er setup it should tip 9000g sharp


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Pretty cool man


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Some experiment:


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

What is it?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

speedneeder said:


> What is it?


Starting to focus on my seatpost, just tried to make a carbon cradle, now need to find the rest of the hardware and test! It looks solid! Final weigh:11g


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Interesting!


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## Fakie1999 (Feb 14, 2010)

andrepsz said:


> Wolthtooth 36t it's on my 'To Do' list, still not available! It will save 16g from mrp 36t and less 46g from chain guide. But I'm still a little skeptical about the complete drop stop effect, perhaps with a xtr shadow plus rear der would assist the ring?!


I have a wolf tooth ring, and I can confirm the "no drop" is true. I use a XT shadow plus. I actually rode once with the clutch turned off (removed rear wheel and forgot to turn it back on) and I still did not have a chain drop. I highly recommend them!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Good info! Thanks


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

That integrated pump think is awesome.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

As 26er with pedals:


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

Impressive! I like this thread... Nice work!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Yes!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)




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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Please help me find this part:

https://reviews.mtbr.com/wp-content/u...7/kcnc_pin.jpg

I'm venturing myself to build my own Seatpost, I already have pair of Ti bolts/ home made carbon cradle/Carbon tube its in the mail, Yokes I know were to find...but this little guy I just can't find anywhere! perhaps I'm using the wrong therm to search for? is there another name for this? (I'm not originally from the US).
I found on r2bike: AX Lightness Ersatzteil Bolzen für Sattelstütze Europa 9g, 27,50 &eur

....but I'm not spending $40 plus on this!

I'm looking for ebay/cheap parts, 3 days to be at my door (if possible).

Any clue?

Any help is much appreciated!


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## jeremyb (Jul 8, 2004)

I have one of these 27.2 OTA seatposts - the pin is removable. Looks like the going price on ebay is about $28 from China. I could sell you my seatpost for that. See photo:


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

jeremyb said:


> I have one of these 27.2 OTA seatposts - the pin is removable. Looks like the going price on ebay is about $28 from China. I could sell you my seatpost for that. See photo:


Thank you for the offer. but its really just the pin that I need! I'm trying with POP (Parts of Passion) to get this. thanks


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Tired of searching, made a connector pin myself. Looking good!







Weight so far...







Waiting for the Yokes now...


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Homemade Seatpost looking promising! Plus 12g from yokes = 116g at 12" total length.


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Cool. I admire your ingenuity!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

speedneeder said:


> Cool. I admire your ingenuity!


In what sense? 
Have to try an idea to know the end story!


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

Exactly - you are learning your own path


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

If I survive after trying it out be sure I'll be back here to share the end story!


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## speedneeder (Mar 26, 2013)

That's a good point, you are assuming some risk doing this.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Homemade seatpost final weight 111g at 11" / 34.9mm.

99g saved from original Ritchey WCS carbon.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Ritchey post: 210g







Successful installation...stiff!!!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Some more saving: TOTAL: -140g

Bike sits at 19.75lns (8960g) as 26er with 2.25 rear /2.40 front RRalph's tires.

f/ XX rear derail(173g) to XTR shadow plus w/ light pulleys (210g); +37g
No Chainguide: -48g
f/ Ritchey seatpost 400m (208g) to homemade seatpost 280mm (111g): -99g
f/ Rear skewer DT swiss (50) to Rossetti Ti (20): -30g


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## ginsu2k (Jul 28, 2006)

Sweet Build...you should ditch the conical washers on the Avids Ultimates, I know they did it themselves for a SL version. Are you running a 140? It looks like the bigger adapter for a 160mm rotor.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

ginsu2k said:


> Sweet Build...you should ditch the conical washers on the Avids Ultimates, I know they did it themselves for a SL version. Are you running a 140? It looks like the bigger adapter for a 160mm rotor.


I'm running both scrubs 160/160. My xx calipers were looking awful, all scratched up. That's why a replaced by the ultimate's but since was already 160mm, I haven't changed anything...same amount of washers and spacers.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Full carbon caliper mount....and can go even lighter!


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## A DuB (Jul 9, 2013)

Pretty awesome. I've enjoyed your thread


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## A DuB (Jul 9, 2013)

Any updates?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Working on some parts, experimenting some things like removing paint on my XX brakeset to Polished Aluminum finish.

levers after polishing:


calipers before polishing:


Also tuned another seatpost. I started with an original BlackOps seatpost (190g): https://kbcyclewerks.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/bo-seatpos11.jpg

Chopped the head off:


final weight on seatpost also changing craddle/Yokes/Pin...146g...But this one is going on another Hardtail sub 16lbs project, not ready yet.


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## A DuB (Jul 9, 2013)

Pretty awesome Andre. Your thread has inspired me! Im looking at a new scott spark 910 at 24lbs. I love the idea of a light full suspension bike, as mine currently weighs 33lbs. I could probably get it lower but i think its smarter to start with a better platform


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

A DuB said:


> Pretty awesome Andre. Your thread has inspired me! Im looking at a new scott spark 910 at 24lbs. I love the idea of a light full suspension bike, as mine currently weighs 33lbs. I could probably get it lower but i think its smarter to start with a better platform


The new spark 910 is 29er right? at 24lbs is pretty good to start...small jobs here and there and the combination could knock some decent weight later...its fun


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## A DuB (Jul 9, 2013)

andrepsz said:


> The new spark 910 is 29er right? at 24lbs is pretty good to start...small jobs here and there and the combination could knock some decent weight later...its fun


Yes 29 carbon.

I know your bike started pretty light, can you feel the difference, now vs then? Does the bike physically ride worse or better than it did when it was heavier?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

First huge difference - fork upgrade; Lefty forks are definitely a go for stiffness and very responsive, 
Almost 4lbs lighter I'd say you can't go worse. Bike is definitely better on climbs and that's my expertize and also why I wanted something light in first place. 
Ridability - as a full suspension bike competing with some 'already light' Hardtails out there on weight, I'd say I'm getting the best from both worlds...I can literally do whatever I want with this one and always be satisfied with performance. I can fully lock all suspensions in case of a ride on the road and Uphills in standing position...I can go Hardtail if I want, I can go FULL on descents, with 2.4 tire up front also improves stability on rocky/sand/soft descents...pretty Sweet!

I had Hardtails all my life and this was my very first full. To be honest with you I'm currently building a Hardtail for myself, just did a ride test last week but I can't compare at all with the Spark...not even cruising on flat sections...somehow the traction mode on the spark's rear suspension definitively improves the experience, much more control on Flats and even uphill....Spark is Unreal!!! I'm very happy!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Updates:
Polished Alloy finish on XX levers and calipers. Old paint was awful , I liked to result!
Tires: Michelin Wild Race'r Ultimate 26x2.10 - 410g/403g

After weight:19.51lbs as pictured with cateye and bottle cage



Ready to fly next weekend...XTERRA!!!


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## Scalty (Feb 18, 2008)

andrepsz said:


> Updates:
> Polished Alloy finish on XX levers and calipers. Old paint was awful , I liked to result!


Why do you have mounted cable on rear brake again with this angle(12clock)?
90 degree to left(9clock) would be better or not?
Here on scale with direct way:


Give us a picture with mounted carbon caliper. It's selfmade?


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## robgall13 (Nov 30, 2012)

Hey I saw you were doing a HT Flash build with an S-Works crank and were wondering about single direct mount rings for S-Works. I wonder if this would work...? .:: Carbon-Ti - Hi Tech Bicycle Components ::.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

robgall13 said:


> Hey I saw you were doing a HT Flash build with an S-Works crank and were wondering about single direct mount rings for S-Works. I wonder if this would work...? .:: Carbon-Ti - Hi Tech Bicycle Components ::.


Would't work without chainguide on my project since I'm using a XX rear derailleur. I found on ebay a XX1 type teeth with 104 BCD for my spyder (from Ukraine) . Worked well so far.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Scalty said:


> Why do you have mounted cable on rear brake again with this angle(12clock)?
> 90 degree to left(9clock) would be better or not?
> Here on scale with direct way:
> 
> ...


That's pretty sweet! looks internally? I need to figure it out how to cut my hose, is too long.


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## Scalty (Feb 18, 2008)

andrepsz said:


> That's pretty sweet! looks internally? I need to figure it out how to cut my hose, is too long.


yes internally, you can see more on all pictures:
Album Scalty - Fotoalbum auf MTB-News.de

you can cut on brakelever or directly on rear brake with goodridge connector kit or hose kit. first option is normal way to short hoses.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Scalty said:


> yes internally, you can see more on all pictures:
> Album Scalty - Fotoalbum auf MTB-News.de
> 
> you can cut on brakelever or directly on rear brake with goodridge connector kit or hose kit. first option is normal way to short hoses.


I'm glad you brought this subject. Maybe I'll Lear something new! So here is my question: check this picture. I was able to cut the hose with the Torx end bolt, but the hose next to it, doesn't seem to have a way to unscrew at all, no torx or Allen. I tried pulling with a wrench with no luck. 









What to do??


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## Scalty (Feb 18, 2008)

andrepsz said:


> I'm glad you brought this subject. Maybe I'll Lear something new! So here is my question: check this picture. I was able to cut the hose with the Torx end bolt, but the hose next to it, doesn't seem to have a way to unscrew at all, no torx or Allen. I tried pulling with a wrench with no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


normaly you need new end pieces, because these are for one time use. outside part have mechanical deforming and inside part hoking in hose, so you need new ones. other end parts like goodrigde maybe you can use few times...
also o-rings made new by service.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Scalty said:


> normaly you need new end pieces, because these are for one time use. outside part have mechanical deforming and inside part hoking in hose, so you need new ones. other end parts like goodrigde maybe you can use few times...
> also o-rings made new by service.


Big thanks. Man...after looking closely to you bike...very good job running the front brake housing through the Stem/Steerer tube. really clean...actually all the work for all everything internally....! it gave me a potential TO DO list and spend more necessary time in the garage! But for that I'll need some guts to do it!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Chinese saddle 103g (from Fizik 158g). Current weight 19.20lbs without Cateye.


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## A DuB (Jul 9, 2013)

Man thats awesome! Love it!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

A DuB said:


> Man thats awesome! Love it!


Thanks! Next..... replace cassette and go under 19lbs


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Its been a while without upgrades. latest features are PROTI Fully Forged Bolts, picked gold color to match with some other components:





For the Lefty fork clamp, perfect fitting!


Also some on the frame and shock


Bottle cage bolts, pretty sweet


Stem


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Looks great!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Started a new and apparently long project...I decided to strip the paint off my spark frame, after running the blade for the first time...I realized how long this task will be! Paint was old and a couple of scratches so it will worth the work. Meanwhile I put this bike together so I have a bike to ride....on a nice and classic carbon flash FR frame. Obviously I would pick some other components and colors to go with this frame, also the fork doesn't have to be XL clamp. End result is still great...and light!!! 17lbs.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Thinking about internal housing (internal cable routing...fixed by phlegm)...


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

^^ Are you talking about internal cable routing?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Yep...


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Bare carbon finish is getting along...but got to say....it's as HELL of a job...deep respect for others venturing to do this.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Work is done finally... a hell of a job is my feedback...but was still fun and always good to learn something new. 82g was the total saving without the paint and a well deserved "I have a new bike!!!" feeling!

I'm a little disappointed to see the poor quality on the bonding process, I've found so many irregular and ugly areas that I might consider a black coating, I'll also add some Scott custom stickers, also thinking about a color touch on small areas, thanks to LEGO to help me pick the colors!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Wow, I'm surprised the paint would add that much.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

After doing some research that is the average saving. I've seen people saving 90g, 75g...depending on frame. One thing I've learned, from factory they add so many layers and the white was by far the hardest to remove.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Paint job


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## GelatiCruiser (Oct 11, 2012)

Where'd you get the Chinese saddle? And how much?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

GelatiCruiser said:


> Where'd you get the Chinese saddle? And how much?


Full Carbon Road Bike Bicycle MTB Saddle Seat | eBay


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## GelatiCruiser (Oct 11, 2012)

Thanks!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Decided to give it a go with Fox CTD








Rotor 4130 BB the be paired with swork crank...









Two major weight saving here. I'm shooting for 70g save on crank setup (from gpx BB and XO to rotor 3140 and s-work) + 77g from (f/ scott nude with remote shock to Fox CTD). total 147g. If I go spiderless in the future it will save around 95g additionally.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)




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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

That's looking great. Perhaps paint the linkage black? The white really stands out.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

TigWorld said:


> That's looking great. Perhaps paint the linkage black? The white really stands out.


Agreed, looking good. Maybe the linkage could be one of the colors on the stripe.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



phlegm said:


> Agreed, looking good. Maybe the linkage could be one of the colors on the stripe.


I almost painted but decided to keep it white to match with the stem and lefty clamps both also white. I'll see how it looks later! Thanks


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

With sun light:


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

FYI
Standard rear shifting cable after cut:









Power cordz uncut:









Hope this works! Any feedback from powercordZ users on rear?


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

andrepsz said:


> With sun light:


Now you're just showing off that you have sunshine - and what's that green stuff? Grass, actual grass? Haven't seen that for months in Canada.

Officially hate this thread now.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <20lbs*



phlegm said:


> Now you're just showing off that you have sunshine - and what's that green stuff? Grass, actual grass? Haven't seen that for months in Canada.
> 
> Officially hate this thread now.


Fake grass...your are funny!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Internal cable routing done for both rear der. and brake


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Finished! 18.9lbs









to sand down BB to fit swork crank
















Carbon stem cap doing its trick 








Running shifting and brake cable internally...much cleaner look


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Some great innovations along the way. Scary thought re sanding down the BB area as there's no going back.

BTW, you really have to clean those tires prior to taking a final "glamour shot" of the build. 

Thx for a fun topic.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Why going back? lol

It was indeed scary to do it because I never tried this before, but I'm sure there is a way to go back since the difference now is only 1.5mm from before...just need to add spacers.

I keep thinking to myself that there is actually no sense on BB92, its a huge lack of options when looking for cranks out there. Now this frame can go with a lot more of them!

Bright side...I liked my new tool...probably not using to sand down any other frames but here is the solution anyways.

I'll take better pics!


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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Excellent. That BB mod / sanding tool is excellent.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Awesome first ride after modification. First major difference was the rear shock, for better! 
Crank installation was an absolute success and the drop stop chainring is working like a charm, no chain drops at all. About 300g was shaved on this process, and much cleaner look with internal cable routing and frame look. Like it!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Wait what?!









Decided to try this because I still like the lever feature on seatclamps..

Original washer used on spark frames to secure cable and work with bottle cage... since it's no longer needed now is pairing with a front wheel quick release lever left over (because a have the lefty). Perfect combo since the washer has a concave face, fully working and holding seatpost well and strong.

















21g is actually lighter then a 38mm X-Clamp QR EVO 38...and I'm still using a M5 stainless steel rod, with a Ti rod would go under 20g for sure!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

8650g with comfort rolling on 2.25/2.40 tire, bottle cage and CPU.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Second attempt to run a 29er/front on this bike but this time with a more 'proper' geometry. The first time (you can see in the beginning of this thread) I didn't do anything to compensate the taller front, wish was somehow 'not perfect' specially going uphill weeling sometimes.

Quick note on this front wheel: I totally scored!....my first 29er wheel was 703g (with tape and valve, no tire) and was with ZTR Crest rim and Cannondale Lefty Hub ...sold it a while ago...and now I just got this one for $170 with tire and the new wheel weight 594g (with tape and valve, no tire)....same Crest rim and Dale lefty Hub).

My intention is to replace this Maxxis Ardent 2.40 tire (815g) by a Rocket Ron 2.25 (520g).



And here is the main difference from before: my new Lefty axle-to-crown reducer solution  
Its reducing 1 1/2 inch of travel...so now I have 72mm total...just enough for my type of riding!


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## ginsu2k (Jul 28, 2006)

Is that functioning like those droop limiting straps on off-road vehicles?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

ginsu2k said:


> Is that functioning like those droop limiting straps on off-road vehicles?


I guess yes, pretty much the same! good catch


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm quite impressed on how durable the fork travel limitator is going. 
Bike is going light and capable for several months now.


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## Ed J (Dec 4, 2013)

This is a sweet build - love the 29er front. You haven't bothered swapping out that ardent then? 815g is a bit of a weight. 

So with the reducer that's back to normal geo-wise? Such a neat set-up. 

Only thing I would want to comment on is that you run a super narrow bar! Do you not like them wide, or are you just trying to save weight?E

Edit: just seen that bar is pretty heavy as well, 150g! My Ritchey WCS 660mm is 130g...


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



Ed J said:


> This is a sweet build - love the 29er front. You haven't bothered swapping out that ardent then? 815g is a bit of a weight.
> 
> So with the reducer that's back to normal geo-wise? Such a neat set-up.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ed! Yes...geometry is fixed but still at 100mm travel...good enough for my type of riding...I don't really go all Mountain with jumps.

It's great to see that I still haveots of room to shave weight on this bike, just under 20lbs now with maxxis ardent, heavy cassette, bar, lefty steerer is heavy, 2.4 tires...I still can go easily close to 18lbs after some more work done. Love this bike!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ed J (Dec 4, 2013)

Definitely! 

How do you find the Ashima rotors? I've got them ready to install on my new build, wondering if you'd give a bit of feedback please? 

I'm also running a mix of wheel sizes, 650b front, 26 back - B26! Don't need to go to as drastic geometry alterations as you do though, just run the front fork a bit more plush!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Ed J said:


> Definitely!
> 
> How do you find the Ashima rotors? I've got them ready to install on my new build, wondering if you'd give a bit of feedback please?
> 
> I'm also running a mix of wheel sizes, 650b front, 26 back - B26! Don't need to go to as drastic geometry alterations as you do though, just run the front fork a bit more plush!


Rotors are very cheap, very light, very good and if damaged...not a single drop of tear...$15 bucks on eBay and I get a new pair! works just like any other rotor. Correction, I'm running about 75mm travel right now, not 100mm (that's without reducer...120mm at full travel with 26er). But the lefty Is so buttery smooth that feels like I'm really using full travel with effectiveness during my rides..I don't need more. The 29 front definitely help with confidence on the downhills, and challenging sections...just go over things better...

I forgot to comment on the bars; back in the 90's that's what I was riding, narrow bars...somehow the today's wider bars won't feel right to me, still like the positioning on those and able to squeeze into trees and stuff...just a personal thing.

I'm sure you will enjoy your new ride, good work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

CAD modeling my future 41T cog and s-works 36T direct Mount Narrow Wide:
41T cog


s-works 36T


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Excited to test this 3d printed section of a cassette I've designed!










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## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

andrepsz said:


> Excited to test this 3d printed section of a cassette I've designed!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


wow that is excellent.


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## MichaelV8V (Aug 16, 2014)

That looks nice, but what is it? 

Is it a component in a 1 x 2 gearset? Think I need more gears than that, but it could become fashionable


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

It's just a section of a cassette...just for testing. It will be a 10sp 11-41T


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## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

any developments on the cassette and chainrings? once again this thread is awesome


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Funny thing...I'm sitting in front of the computer working on the cassette as I type this 😄


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I'm also working on this:









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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

New addition: Ashima Worlds Lightest Ai2 140mm rotor for the rear...yes, they exist! 
62g on my scale









Bike is now under the 19lbs mark at exactly 18.98lbs with 2.25 tires RRon front and RRalph back.

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## krzysiekmz (Nov 10, 2009)

Where did you get the 140mm from if you don't mind me asking?

*EDIT:*
Found some, sorry about that.

Chris.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



krzysiekmz said:


> Where did you get the 140mm from if you don't mind me asking?
> 
> Chris.


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291351452366

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## krzysiekmz (Nov 10, 2009)

Ha, I was a minute too late with editing my post. 

Just purchased from this seller! Thanks a lot. 

Chris.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Hard to beat these...best cost/weight in the market!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

krzysiekmz said:


> Ha, I was a minute too late with editing my post.
> 
> Just purchased from this seller! Thanks a lot.
> 
> Chris.


Here is another awesome cost beneficial thing, just got those as well, in the mail!

Адаптер тормоза IS-PM +0мм - Neutrino Components

$15 each, very good price for a 8g adapter.

This was made by a member here on Mtbr last year...today he's got his on-line store! good stuff.

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## octanejake (Oct 11, 2010)

What type of 3d printer are you using to print these metal parts? 
Is it laser sintering or direct metal printing or something else?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Laser sintering! Very impressed by the quality and stiffness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## octanejake (Oct 11, 2010)

What brand/model are you using? I've been looking into potentially getting a 3d printer.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

I don't have one, I use third party 3d printing services.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Another fun project, I was inspired to do this one...funky look hum?! Possible to print in bronze finish just like the rendering...to match with the shock Kashima coating finish...someday I'll get my hand on this puppy...some of these days!









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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Got my new Neutrino Components adapters 0mm (to the left), damn light for $16 each.









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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Always glad to see updates to this thread.

Re adapters, I usually try to avoid them. Out of curiosity, what is the native size for rotors (without adapters) front and rear for that frame and fork?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Native native...was 180F 160R with dt swiss fork all 26. Now is at 160F (29er) 140R (26er).


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Ah, right, thanks for the 69er.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Two new additions: 
-Future Brain Shock for testings:
-3d printed Chainring (my design)...also for testings!

Still 'light' at 19.25lbs










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## octanejake (Oct 11, 2010)

Can you show more of that chainring? It looks great.


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## joeadnan (Oct 21, 2003)

http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/3d-printing-bicycle-industry-912782-2.html#post11861247


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## stew325 (Jan 3, 2011)

I'm very curious how that brain shock works on the Scott!
I'm selling my Epic, and racing a Scott Spark this year. But I love how the brain functions. 
Interested in details and feedback after your testing.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

stew325 said:


> I'm very curious how that brain shock works on the Scott!
> I'm selling my Epic, and racing a Scott Spark this year. But I love how the brain functions.
> Interested in details and feedback after your testing.


I did two short rides so far on the shock and I have a lot of questions on the Brain tech. I'm hoping to like the way it is, but if not...I'll probably be trying to do something different and install the inertia valve on the front wheel and see if I find any difference.

Just so you know, I even created a thread several weeks ago asking questions about the shock and became kinda of a big thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/fox-shock-brain-real-deal-947382.html#post11734792


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



octanejake said:


> Can you show more of that chainring? It looks great.




















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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Some other 3d printed custom parts:

Offset eyelets

















nylon printed Lefty knob without lockout (never use it anyways)









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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Here is my everythinginthemail next project! Moving back to 2x10. Expected weight saving is 106g.

Here is the plan (cassette config first column, crank config second and third column)









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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Saving weight by moving to 2X10 over 1X10? This I have to see.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> Saving weight by moving to 2X10 over 1X10? This I have to see.


yeah me too.! Looks good on the spreadsheet at least

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Silly way to show this....but very promising to see a cassette+RD weighting 93g less than my Shima cassette 11-36 alone currently in use!









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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Can that be right?

Lightest 11-36 I'm aware of is the XX @ 208g. That means the RD would have to be 37g in that example. 

So, can you elaborate on the cassette?


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## octanejake (Oct 11, 2010)

Check his gear ratio picture on the previous page, it looks like he is going with a smaller cassette.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

So, is that a SRAM XX derailleur? Even if we split the 245g between stuff, that means a 123g derailleur and 123g cassette. Wow, both possibilities are crazy light.

I'm dying to hear from andrepsz!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm going 'RED'...:thumbsup: still working on it!....official weight pics soon!

Cassette is full Ti.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

So I had an accidental discovery here. Since I'm going 2x10, I needed a front shifter...but after I looked at the price for a XX Gripshifter on eBay (to match the other side) and I was quite discouraged. So I had this damaged Scott Twinloc without use and considered trying as shifter! But I had to fix the engagement teeth first! So I've 3d printed in stainless.....and it worked!


















....and you are looking at probably the lightest trigger front shifter to date! Haha










....and I know it really works! Its already installed on my bike fully working...more pictures soon!

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

If you were wondering about the cassette:

Full Ti 11-28:









Prior and old 11-36 cassette:


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'm getting very interested to see the final chainring(s).


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Front shifter with cable. interesting fact is that I can completely remove the whole shifter and cable just by unscrewing stuff, no need to detach cables.









...and here is why I can do that... pulley pull.










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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I like the look of this!
Shimano pro carbon look chain stay neoprene protector.










Still saved I few grams! Needed to chance because of a hole on the old one. 

















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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Xpedo Road force XRF06TT (R force)

Just got this from ebay at amazing deal! (good deal because was pretty bit up...old grease, stiff rotation, missing cap). Having fun tuning it up with:

-lighter bearings (in case you want to know...they are Metric 6(id)x13(OD)x5(width);
- Ti Nuts (they are M6 0.75 pitch - or 1/4-28 UNF equivalent);
-Alloy or Ti torx adjusting bolts (M4);
-Special Dura Ace green grease.

....It will be light...probably around 150g/pair.

I'll give it shot as a MTB pedal.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Looking forward to the scale shot, although I'm starting to get jealous of these low weights. 

BTW andrepsz, speaking of pedals, do you have different float requirements given your prosthesis?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

can't wait on the chain rings! suppose to be end of this month!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

man...this Xpedo is simply gorgeous! full body in titanium , Ti hollow spindle, will have Ti nuts....its all Ti! piece of art!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> Looking forward to the scale shot, although I'm starting to get jealous of these low weights.
> 
> BTW andrepsz, speaking of pedals, do you have different float requirements given your prosthesis?


I don't really need specific float. For safety reasons because of the prosthesis, I like setting up the pedal at the very minimum spring load so I can easily be off the bike in a panic situation...in fact, thinking about this minimum spring...also the reason why I'm taking one spring off on each pedal since they are in pairs... no need for that extra weight...that's 6g less...WOWW!!!...(actually asking myself why and when I started to think that shaving 6g is such a happy moment)


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

From xx to red









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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

impressive sram red weight. aside from the alu bolts & jockey wheels how else have you lightened it?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



scant said:


> impressive sram red weight. aside from the alu bolts & jockey wheels how else have you lightened it?


Bolts are Ti on the pic. I also took the barrel adjuster out since I'm running this RD with a XX gripshifter and already has an adjuster, wish Is also conveniently placed close to the handlebar and I can adjust on the fly if necessary. 
Other than that no other modifications. Back plate cage is original, no grindings.... that's it

It might be at 130g sharp after installing because I took the bottom bolt out. Pair of pulleys weight 15g combined.

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## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

I have a pair of those xpedo peddles and they can be a pain... They don't hang like a road peddle will. So when you go to clip in your shoving your foot into the bottom of the peddle. If your bearings help let them hang properly then I may have to get a pair. Or since they are already used you wont experience that problem.


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

I'm very curious to see what you do with the rest of the drivetrain. given the road cassette, what size chainrings are you going to use?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



scant said:


> I'm very curious to see what you do with the rest of the drivetrain. given the road cassette, what size chainrings are you going to use?


Experimental Prototype 22/38

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

facelessfools said:


> I have a pair of those xpedo peddles and they can be a pain... They don't hang like a road peddle will. So when you go to clip in your shoving your foot into the bottom of the peddle. If your bearings help let them hang properly then I may have to get a pair. Or since they are already used you wont experience that problem.


I'm also curious to find that out in the trail, haven't tried yet...if the hanging is a problem...I'm actually having some ideas to shift the center of gravity a little bit and let the pedal sit better.

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Got these so cheap...gave me room to play around!

Tuned R-force with new grease, light bearings....light KCNC chainring Nut to the spindle and Proti FFR tension adjuster bolt









Before:









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## facelessfools (Aug 30, 2008)

do your peddles have threads for the kcnc bolts? mine had some crappy plastic caps that i lost..


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



facelessfools said:


> do your peddles have threads for the kcnc bolts? mine had some crappy plastic caps that i lost..


The spindle thread is M6 0.75 pitch, after long long search for a nice nut with this spec...I ended up find out that these KCNC are compatible. But isn't that simple: I've replaced the original nut with these wich is also nice since also replaces the crappy plastic, but there's also a retaining ring that holds the bearing in place that is touching the nut...and isn't perfect yet...I'm trying to solve that. But is definitely rideable!

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Allow me to share the beginning of this personal project. I've recently created this Seat Case (Saddle Bag) and I'm posting with the intent to get feedback and have a feel on the product. I am calling it 'SeatCase' and I have solid plans to run with it and try to put this in the market someday, for instance, this product is a High quality 3d printed single part.

I made two versions so far:

With Co2 holder:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/E...dle-27g?li=search-results-1&optionId=56589470

No C02 holder:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/J...7a06787937a84d83d54290b0f97&optionId=56841259

Rendering:

Rendering:










Real picture:


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## TDLover (Sep 14, 2014)

This thread and of course your project is absolutely stunning! You are a great motivation to others alike, keep working that great mind of yours.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

TDLover said:


> This thread and of course your project is absolutely stunning! You are a great motivation to others alike, keep working that great mind of yours.


Thanks!

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## TigWorld (Feb 8, 2010)

Very cool. Your other stuff on shapeways looks great too!


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

andrepsz said:


> The spindle thread is M6 0.75 pitch, after long long search for a nice nut with this spec...I ended up find out that these KCNC are compatible. But isn't that simple: I've replaced the original nut with these wich is also nice since also replaces the crappy plastic, but there's also a retaining ring that holds the bearing in place that is touching the nut...and isn't perfect yet...I'm trying to solve that. But is definitely rideable!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm looking to replace the nuts on my M-Force 8 pedals with titanium ones, but I'm having troubles finding a reverse-thread nut for the right side pedal. Would you mind sharing where you got yours from?

Also, would you mind posting a close-up shot of Proti FFR tension adjuster bolt? Do you think I could fit this on the M-Force 8, or is the construction different on the XRF06TT?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Crossmaxx said:


> I'm looking to replace the nuts on my M-Force 8 pedals with titanium ones, but I'm having troubles finding a reverse-thread nut for the right side pedal. Would you mind sharing where you got yours from?
> 
> Also, would you mind posting a close-up shot of Proti FFR tension adjuster bolt? Do you think I could fit this on the M-Force 8, or is the construction different on the XRF06TT?


The reverse thread can be a common problem for newer Xpedo's. This R-force I got on eBay is a older version and has a regular thread and worked with the KCNC nut but I'm not sure about the newer version...it might have a reverse thread as well. Also note that the R-force doesn't have the thread on the pedal body...on the M-force line has it wish is used for the alloy cap.

For the adjusted bolt...they are all M4 size and can be 12mm long. On the M-force you might need to do some modification to the end of the Bolt since also works as a pin at the tip...inserting to the other side of clip...and is of courser longer than 12mm.

The construction is deferent on the R-force. The adjuster bolt is shorter and doesn't act as pin at the end...a M4x12mm works fine.

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Duplicated deleted


----------



## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Duplicated deleted


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

Thanks for the reply! Seems to be a hassle, so I will probably stick with the stock nuts and tension adjustment bolts.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

New and innovative project in the oven!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

andrepsz said:


> New and innovative project in the oven!


My wife has one of those in her bedside table.


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## nickcube (Jul 25, 2012)

A grip and gripshift? ('m only guessing, no idea what it is)


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

haha...yeah putting that grip to the rendering was doubtful...its a grip shift...but not for shifting gears!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Ok....makes more sense now? It's a heavy duty Grip Shift that will function as a travel reducer for the Lefty fork....engagement system was inspired by a freehub...release will be by pressing on the grip itself pushing the 3 clutches down and dropping the teeth to return to full travel. It will be fully 3d printed.









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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Please tell me that you've applied for a patent.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Yep!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Got my Experimental Prototype Carbon Steerer in the mail...wish also gave me a chance to weight the entire fork once more.

-EP Steerer weight: *78.6g* (Prior Project321 Steerer weight was 163.6g)
-Fork only (wish is a XLR 29er 100mm) with plastic cap (replaced from XLR remote), Ti Proti bolts on clamps, no boot:*1233.7g*
-Rockshock Judy XC boot (yes...from the 90's): *26.8g*

TOTAL: *1339.4g*


















here is the plastic cap (3d printed)
https://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/02/7b4a91fc15f10ba365106d0a01e14e14.jpg

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## diskox (Apr 19, 2014)

Hi andrepsz, did you have to change the cartridge in order to remove the x-lock? I have the same fork and would like to lose that extra grams but I've been told that I'd have to replace the cartridge which is kinda expensive


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Hi diskox, no didn't needed to replace the cartridge. This cap has an Allen key extension inside that pushes the button on the cartridge keeping the fork always open....so no lockout anymore.

This is the cap:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GL4WUCS7U/lefty-knob-replacement-cap-from-xloc


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Truly a Fast bike.... comparing from Downhill position to aggressive Climb/Cruise position.









...to show how it looks on reduced fork travel mode.


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## Radioinactive (Aug 2, 2011)

andrepsz said:


> Truly a Fast bike.... comparing from Downhill position to aggressive Climb/Cruise position.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to andrepsz again.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Radioinactive said:


> You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to andrepsz again.


What do you mean?


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

If you attempt to give a user rep points too often, the system prevents you. You have to give other users some points (spread it around) before you give more to the same person.

Seems like Radioinactive likes your posts.

Don't know why - I think you suck.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> If you attempt to give a user rep points too often, the system prevents you. You have to give other users some points (spread it around) before you give more to the same person.
> 
> Seems like Radioinactive likes your posts.
> 
> Don't know why - I think you suck.


Haha, that's funny...didn't know about this rule...thanks Radioinactive...I guess! ...well... I need to find some people to give reputation....how about you phlegm, you suck just a little or a lot? 

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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Ha - Not sure how to answer that, but I'll take points anytime.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Can't believe this ring set cost me only $26... But I'm only using the big one for now. Very good finish...the elliptical theory...well, I'm skeptical but decided to give it a go out of curiosity! 26 bucks anyways 










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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'm not sold on elliptical either - let us know how it goes. Funny, the angle of the photo makes it look perfectly round.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> I'm not sold on elliptical either - let us know how it goes. Funny, the angle of the photo makes it look perfectly round.


Aesthetically, I like the red ring inside...to match with the sram Red 11-26 OG 1090 cassette that I'm buying soon! That cassette has a nice red back plate.

Gave up on the full Ti cassette 

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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

andrepsz said:


> Aesthetically, I like the red ring inside...to match with the sram Red 11-26 OG 1090 cassette that I'm buying soon! That cassette has a nice red back plate.
> 
> Gave up on the full Ti cassette...poor shifting for the price.. The Red cassette will have about 40g of weight penalty but trusted shifting!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

This app keep duplicating comments!!!!


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

andrepsz said:


> ...
> 
> Gave up on the full Ti cassette


That's too bad - was looking forward to hearing more. What went wrong?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> That's too bad - was looking forward to hearing more. What went wrong?


I hate to be a snitch....but the Ti cassette not only had poor shifting but the last 28T cog actually bent! I think even the last two cogs were bent. I started noticing that eventually when I as going on super steep climbs I had skipping gears, even doing my best to adjust the cable, still skipping... then pedaling backwards on the 28T the chain was dropping to the next cog. Pissed off I decided to investigate closely what was happening and found the 28T clearly bent. They replaced the largest 3 cogs combo for me, but I sold it as like new for the same price I've payed. At least a happy ending financially.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

With Ti bolts...that is a very good weight! 









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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

phlegm said:


> I'm not sold on elliptical either - let us know how it goes.


Dude...try it. You just may like it. It pretty cheap compared to all the other parts you're running. :cornut:


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

I found that the WolfTooth 32t elliptical ring I've been using was a definite improvement over the round rings I had before. I noticed that when I am sitting and grinding (short little power applications) I seemed to have more power, and when I stand my pedal stroke is a lot smoother.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

I like it. (+5.1g lockring)










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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Another eBay find: Extralite Hyperlefty Hub 24 holes. That's a good weight to start with, planning on changing the bearings to Full Ceramic and Proti FFR Ti bolt witch should bring the weight down to 75g! at this final weight ...probably the lightest Lefty hub I'm aware of.


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## MichaelV8V (Aug 16, 2014)

Seems surprisingly heavy for a cassette with only three cogs, and that change from 1st up to 2nd looks pretty tough


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

MichaelV8V said:


> Seems surprisingly heavy for a cassette with only three cogs, and that change from 1st up to 2nd looks pretty tough


that is the back side of a sram red cassette, its not showing but is a 10sp cassette!

what do you mean by 1st up to 2nd??


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

andrepsz said:


> that is the back side of a sram red cassette, its not showing but is a 10sp cassette!
> 
> what do you mean by 1st up to 2nd??


Ha ha !!! Oh man that was funny . A three sprocket cassette with a huuuuge first gear !!!

I think he means changing from the first sprocket to the second sprocket would be a huge jump . Obviously he doesn't know the cassette is facing down .


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

karimian5 said:


> Ha ha !!! Oh man that was funny . A three sprocket cassette with a huuuuge first gear !!!
> 
> I think he means changing from the first sprocket to the second sprocket would be a huge jump . Obviously he doesn't know the cassette is facing down .


1st to 2nd ....GEAR! now I got it thanks karimian!!!! ...because here where I live is either flat....or a wall to climb...there is no mid term.

MichaelV8V...my scale is too small so I had to face the cassette down to fit...healthy jokes ok?! google 'Sram Red Cassette OG 1090'...its a 8 cog single body machined out of steel with hollow enclosure + 2 cog 11sp and 12sp, quite of an interesting design and fairly light.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Here it is MichaelV8V:


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Never seen this design before . I have seen freehubs on websites with the splines going out from the centre around 10mm and thought 'huh' !!! Now I get it . It must have strong teeth to take the torque load from the rider on those tiny splines . I thought it would have been better to make it out of titanium and use a standard full length splined design . Sram must have a reason for this .


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



karimian5 said:


> Never seen this design before . I have seen freehubs on websites with the splines going out from the centre around 10mm and thought 'huh' !!! Now I get it . It must have strong teeth to take the torque load from the rider on those tiny splines . I thought it would have been better to make it out of titanium and use a standard full length splined design . Sram must have a reason for this .


This was the first year Sram introduced this design (I think was 2009), then Sram RED 22 X-Glide 1190 cassette came out even lighter with more machining under each tooth, both Og1090 and 22 are for road application and goes only up to 11-32 (mine is 11-28). Sram is currently using the same design on their XX group and 1x11 groups on their XG-1199 (XX1) and XG-1195 (X01) cassettes.

I choose this configuration 11-28 cassette, 22/38 rings on a 26er frame....and is working well for me.


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

Ah a fellow 26" rider .:thumbsup:


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

karimian5 said:


> Ah a fellow 26" rider .:thumbsup:


I'm riding a 69er actually...but 26er frames will never die! It will actually come back as the new cool thing eventually.


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## MichaelV8V (Aug 16, 2014)

andrepsz said:


> 1st to 2nd ....GEAR! now I got it thanks karimian!!!! ...because here where I live is either flat....or a wall to climb...there is no mid term.
> 
> MichaelV8V...my scale is too small so I had to face the cassette down to fit...healthy jokes ok?!


Yes, I couldn't resist commenting, it did look like three cogs 

The inside of the cassette is interesting, and it looks like it could evolve from there into a very complex shape to save even more weight on later versions


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Having some fun!
Another great ebay find...but need some servicing.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Older brother rear hub is now clean and ready to pair up with the hyperlefty! It will take me a long time to have this wheelset ready but here is my motivation pic to help me be patient! I'll be back in a couple of months.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I like when unplanned weight saving happens

Old helmet s-works large: 260g (with broken and missing front grid)
New helmet catlike whisper large: 250g


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Did you say _whisper_?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

phlegm said:


> Did you say _whisper_?


I'll use this song to climb my next mountain!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

So undecided! I'm starting to research what my next wheel build will have but man...still lots of research and decisions to do. Initial intention is to build a super lightweight setup but I can't discard my real world application.

*Hubs* Extralite's (Hyper Lefty / Hyper rear QR 10sp : Check!!!

*Spokes:* 50% Ti 50% steel, or 100% steel? if I find some good deal on Ti spokes from china I will go 50/50.

*Rims*: The BIG question! needs to be 24holes front 32holes back and will be carbon for sure but:
-Do I go 26er back / 29 Front ( what I like the best!)
-Do I go 27.5 back and Front (27.5 with beefy tires fits on the 2011 Scott Spark 10?)
-Do I go 27.5 back / 29er Front (fits on the 2011 Scott Spark 10?)
-27mm, 30mm or 35mm rim width?

*Schwalbe Procore * surious considation. Can it be retrofitted to any rim? can go with 35mm wide rim?

Where I ride is extremely rocky and hard on tires, so I need to go beefy...can't use tire without sidewall protection....that also means extra weight.


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## nickcube (Jul 25, 2012)

If 27.5 fits on the rear i'd seriously consider using that front and rear, or on the rear at least since 26" is dying a slow death. That said, if it aint broke, don't fix it. 

On some wide rims, Schwalbe ProCore would be an awesome addition though I think it is more aimed at the downhill section of our sport where running ~16psi is a real advantage for gain a more grip, that's the main idea behind procure i believe and I heard its ~200g per wheel extra weight. 30mm rims with whatever tyres would that suit your needs would work well I think so long as you have the clearance. Do investigate Procore as i could be proven wrong


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

The place I ride here 99% of the time is one steep rocky mountain, about 30min up and down. The problem is that I am XC rider and I absolutely love uphills... really want to keep my bike as light as possible so I can keep having the experience of an effective climb, however, the descent is brutal! most of the riders on that mountain ride enduro/All mountain type bikes with downhill tires....wish is obviously the way to go. 

So I believe my objective on this wheel build is to have as much as functional weight as possible and ditch what I am not going to be using. I don't go hard on the downhills anyways but I'd like to have good and wide tires, 2.4 over if I can. Maxxis Argent 2.4 is what I am using right now and is just awesome for that mountain. 2.8 or 3.0 would also be welcome....then the beauty of wide rims like 35mm is that I could also fit a narrow tire 2.2, 2.25 if I race eventually, on the same wheelset.

As for wheel size choices... I agree with you, If I can fit a 27.5 on the back it would be smart, easier to sell it later If I want...but I'd bet you that 26+ tires might have a bigger place on the market soon...As far as I know Surly is the only one making 26x 2.8 / 3.0 tires that are actually hitting 27.5 circumference. My problem is to find out what is the maximum size I could fit on the rear. I think 26x2.8 would work fine...3.0 would be awesome!


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

I think I got a solid plan now: wide enough to run 3.0 tires on the front (29er circumference) and 2.8 on the back (close to 27.5er circumference...and hopefully fits on my frame)! Quite Impressive final weight considering the big rims...and also great to know that is pretty equivalent to my current wheel with ZTR crest super narrow rims, american classic rear hub and cannondale lefty stock front hub, final weight at 1223g.

*Front wheel:*
Hub:	Extralite Hub Hyperlefty 24 holes (81.9g) tuned with Full ceramic bearings (7.6g less):74.3g
Rim: carbon 27.5er 35mm wide tubeless compatible:400g
Spokes: 24x Sapim CX-Ray: 102g *???*
Nipples: Alloy: 8g

*Rear Wheel:	* 
Hub:Extralite Hub Extralite hyper 1 32 Holes (168g) tuned with Full ceramic bearing about 160g
Rim: carbon 26er 33mm wide tubeless compatible: 365g
Spokes: 32x Sapim CX-Ray: 106.43g *???*
Nipples: Alloy: 11g

*Total: 1226.73g*


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Hate to say it, but sounds a little too good to be true. I'm thinking it is closer to 1226.74g.

I'll await official scale shots.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



phlegm said:


> Hate to say it, but sounds a little too good to be true. I'm thinking it is closer to 1226.74g.
> 
> I'll await official scale shots.


I'll quit riding if its 1g off! man...prediction is saying final weight of the total bike just under 21lbs...a full suspension bike with 2.8 / 3.0 tires, dropper, bottle cage and of course pedal...riding like heaven!

It will take a long time until scale shots!


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

I was going to go ceramics with my wheelset but honestly don't think it will make a difference (and by looking at other forums it doesn't). It only makes sense on small fast moving parts like the jockey wheels .


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

karimian5 said:


> I was going to go ceramics with my wheelset but honestly don't think it will make a difference (and by looking at other forums it doesn't). It only makes sense on small fast moving parts like the jockey wheels .


It's saves about 8g per hub and I find cheap on ebay, under $10 each. I'm doing for the weight saving. I already have installed on my lefty stock hub for several months now with no problems at all...'so why not do it' in the back of my mind.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

New idea materialization:


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Very clean design. How does it attach to the bars?


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*



phlegm said:


> Very clean design. How does it attach to the bars?


The idea is to make something extremely easy to remove for day rides, and in case a person has multiple bikes. Attachment is clamp-on as a flexible semi circle...with a fine tuner attached to the steerer, it just need to be pressed against the bar...or pulled away from it and is off. 








...but I'm challenged now to make this universal to fit on any bike.

Still need to try this light on the trails to see if it's reliable...if not I could make this mount to fit with other flashlights no problem.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Found the perfect brakes for me


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## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

What brand is the brake adapter? It looks nice, I might have to get one...


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

NWS said:


> What brand is the brake adapter? It looks nice, I might have to get one...


Brand is 'Neutrino Components' - 8.8g!
??????? ??????? IS-PM +0?? - Neutrino Components


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

One of those eBay buy sell deal...then I find this Sram 11-36 10sp cassette with the back plate busted...
- can't sell, 
- can't use it,
- to replace the cog is expensive...what am I going to do?!?!










....let me think......












I inverted the plate so I could use the healthy corners of whatever was left to engage in the free hub









Transformed into at 12-32 8sp...two standard cog spacers where added inside the cassette to close the gap created by inverting the plate. 









Will be used on my TT bike paired with 39/53t rings....1x.....and the good news...it cleared the road RD short cage!!!









Or....if I change my mind I'll put on my MTB as 2x8sp


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Gave it a try on the syntace Flatforce 









Upgraded with some Proti bolts


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Oh well...one of those tough decisions in life..get married or not? Have kids or not? Upgrade with carbon rims or not? Go with Chinese carbon rim 33mm wide/365g or stick with my narrow ZTR Crest 283g...that would make at very light rear wheel and I would shave 47.4g from current wheel.









Looking for community feedback to help me get out of this anxiety.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I like it! best cost benefit out there. According to the advertising is made out of 'High Composite Resin'...I would call this carbon forged.

My old Pulley were already light with 11T each. New one is 12T each, it has the Narrow Wide Feature (main reason why I was interested in replacing it).... and is still lighter! ready for the price? $7.88 for the pair!










Also cool that fits on my Sram RD short cage









12T MTB Jockey Wheel Bicycle Rear Derailleur Pulley Guide Bearing Resin SRAM | eBay


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I think these are entitle as the lightest levers in the worlds. (Magura MT8 pair is 112g).

Brake Force One levers


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Ho yes!









Yes!!









Ho yeah!!!









So nice!!!!









This 251.1g 11-42t 10sp cassette will be managed by a 173g Sram XX rear derailleur. This combo really makes me question a conversation to XX1, why spend that much money to go heavier (265g cassette + 241g RD) and weaker chain? Also mentioning that Garbaruk is coming with a 11-45t cassette in the next few months, I think I could make my XX RD clear the 45T with a extra long bolt adjuster and smaller upper pulley, I found on ebay 10T pulleys but not 9T.

Cassette 11-44T (45T) - Cassettes


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## Crossmaxx (Dec 2, 2008)

andrepsz said:


> This 251.1g 11-42t 10sp cassette will be managed by a 173g Sram XX rear derailleur. This combo really makes me question a conversation to XX1, why spend that much money to go heavier (265g cassette + 241g RD) and weaker chain?


Here is why:

1: that looks to be an all-titanium cassette, which will mean much higher wear on all but the 42T cog when compared to the X01/XX1 (which features steel cogs on all but the 42T). You will get much less mileage from this cassette, so your miles/dollar and also miles/gram will probably be lower on this cassette than on an X01/XX1. And the ratio is bigger on the Sram cassettes (420% vs 382% on this cassette).
2: Your 173 gram Sram XX derailleur is clutchless, so comparing it to a clutched RD is not really fair. Besides, the XTR RD-M9000 comes in at 222 grams, with tuning potential to get it down to sub-210. Further, if you don't actually want to use the clutch mechanism, you can remove the clutch parts from the XTR derailleur and get it down to around 190 grams (just a rough estimate).

I'm not saying your setup is inferior to an XX1/XTR mashup, but performance-wise (like a wider-ratio casette and a clutched derailleur) and longevity-wise (steel cogs vs titanium) they are not on the same level.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

Crossmaxx said:


> Here is why:
> 
> 1: that looks to be an all-titanium cassette, which will mean much higher wear on all but the 42T cog when compared to the X01/XX1 (which features steel cogs on all but the 42T). You will get much less mileage from this cassette, so your miles/dollar and also miles/gram will probably be lower on this cassette than on an X01/XX1. And the ratio is bigger on the Sram cassettes (420% vs 382% on this cassette).
> 2: Your 173 gram Sram XX derailleur is clutchless, so comparing it to a clutched RD is not really fair. Besides, the XTR RD-M9000 comes in at 222 grams, with tuning potential to get it down to sub-210. Further, if you don't actually want to use the clutch mechanism, you can remove the clutch parts from the XTR derailleur and get it down to around 190 grams (just a rough estimate).
> ...


Here is where I got the inspiration. 
Project XC Race Rocket: The Rotor x SEQlite x SRAM x Absoluteblack 1x10 drivetrain - Bikerumor

Cassette isn't titanium, only top 3 cogs are Aluminum 7075 and the rest is steel. So its quite of a impressive weight. 
I find clutched RD something unnecessary if chainguide is still a requirement on front, and that will be my choice...so the clutcheless XX will do the same job as a Clutched one.

The problem is: Companies always tend to create 'systems' so it forces us to buy the whole enchilada in order to take advantage of a new concept. When Sram launched XX1, nobody else was doing wider range cassettes...its just a mater of time until someone start making them...and the time is now. Gargaruk is one of them and I can't wait until their 11-45T is released and btw...is going to be:
11-38T cogs - chrome molybdenum vanadium steel;
44 or 45T cog - 7075-T651 aluminum alloy.


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## andrepsz (Jan 28, 2013)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Second attempt to run 1 by....I think now I'm going to like it!

Pretty sweet to know that a SRAM XX clears a 11-42 cassette...36 on front!


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## Andpsz (Dec 3, 2012)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

I'm surrendering to longer travel fork!

DT Swiss EXC 150 26", 1580g! Minus star nut 10g) Not bad at all! 









...soon to be paired with a 26+ setup front wheel...can't wait!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Andpsz (Dec 3, 2012)

*69er Scott Spark <21lbs*

Well...bike changed so much that deserves a new thread once is fully finished.

New setting: FS, longer travel 120R / 150F 26+ tires....actual width measured on my caliper 2.3R / 2.6F. Front wheel is built with WTB i40 scraper rim...still need to upgrade the rear rim, using the same hub and spokes. Goal is to run 2.8 tire on rear and 3.0 on the front.

Current weight: 21.13lbs! 

















DT Swiss EXC 150 after some custom stickers and top cap (1580g)! 









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