# Orbea Rise: Brake hose swap - anyone done it?



## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

I'm wanting to swap brakes on my Rise, which will require a hose swap since my OE is a threaded nut-olive fitting and I'll need a banjo fitted hose.

Has anyone swapped their rear hose? If so, level of difficulty? I'm wondering if I could use an Avid barbed hose fitting, clip the fitting off the existing hose, attach it to a new hose, and feed new hose through guide-wire style.


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## holdendaniels (Jul 25, 2005)

I have not done a brake swap on an Orbea but I have used the technic you describe above several times on Specialized Levo, Levo SL and Kenevo SL bikes. Works awesome! Sram makes the barb tool that I used. I cut the rear brake line at the lever, attach the new front brake line to the rear brake line with the barb. Then use a push / pull technic while removing the old brake line. Attach the new rear brake line to the brake line you just pulled thru, again push / pull technic until the rear brake line is installed. Then install front brake as usual. This method will save the rear brake line and hopefully can be used with a new barb and olive.


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## jdubsl2 (Feb 6, 2006)

If you want to replace the hose, you need to drop the motor. It’s not a hard job, but takes a little more time. The instructions in the Blue Paper are very good.

I ditched the stock cheapie Shimano brakes for some four piston XTs and just bought a new end and barb for the rear brake hose. Cut the stock brake hose, installed the new end, bled the brake. I’ve got a few hundred miles on it now and have not had a problem.


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## markloch (Jul 15, 2021)

[edit] confusing Rise with Wild, dropped (lifted actually) Bosch motor, presumably Shimano is more or less the same. 

I found flipping the bike over and lifting to remove, dropping install was a lot easier than right side up dropping to remove, lifting to install. The latter is a PITA.


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Yeah I did it, switched over to Hayes Dominions, ended up having to buy the Park tool to thread the new Hayes hose thru cause I screwed up trying to use the existing hose to pull a cable(DIY trick) thru the frame and thus pull the new hose back thru. I agree dropping the motor will make it easier but not 100% necessary, I didn't. Use the Sram thingamajiggy for their hydraulic dropper hose and pull new hose thru back to front w/existing hose. Also, the black tube thingy that connects the main frame and the chainstay was not big enough for the larger diameter Hayes hose and I had to figure out a fix for that but may not be an issue for other brands. Good luck you'll need it! 

**it's the Reverb hose replacement tool with fittings on both sides


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I have Code RSC brakes coming to replace the stock Deore brakes for my H15. I'm a bit confused over the process of using the exist hose to pull the new hose. Do you join with like electrical tape, or are you somehow threading them together?


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## Tickle (Dec 11, 2013)

Use this tool, wish I had known about it before I tried a DIY hack






Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector | Jenson USA







www.jensonusa.com


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## SprocketHead (Dec 23, 2004)

I just did it last night and used the SRAM Barb Connector. Had to pull pretty hard to get the hose feeding started but once I got it going, the process was really easy. Didn't have to drop the motor.


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

Brake transplant completed last night. Gone are the underpowered SLX brakes, replaced by Saints. Huge upgrade.

Using the Reverb barb connector made this a piece of cake and my fears were completely unfounded. The hose moved easily by using two hands to push/pull from opposite ends.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

A word of warning. Don’t do a brake swap to SRAM HS2 center lock rotors. 

There is no magnet solution for these. I bodged a solution for now but yesterday was getting an E050 error, that cleared itself after a mile of analog riding. 

I should have done XTR rotors with Saints. Lesson learned. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

Roaming50 said:


> A word of warning. Don’t do a brake swap to SRAM HS2 center lock rotors.
> 
> There is no magnet solution for these. I bodged a solution for now but yesterday was getting an E050 error, that cleared itself after a mile of analog riding.
> 
> ...


Good point.
I replaced the stock rotors with TRP rotors, mostly because I wanted to swap the OEM front for a 203 then decided to get a matching one for the rear.
I learned the hard way that the shimano magnet doesn't work with TRP, so I bought TRP's magnet which looks "universal" for centerlock and may work with any rotor.
I couldn't get my hands on the finned XTR rotors readily, or likely I would have gone that route in the first place.









Centerlock Rotor Magnet for E-Bike Speed Sensor SP-SS20


Compatible with all TRP/Tektro centerlock rotors:




trpcycling.com


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

The Squeaky Wheel said:


> Good point.
> I replaced the stock rotors with TRP rotors, mostly because I wanted to swap the OEM front for a 203 then decided to get a matching one for the rear.
> I learned the hard way that the shimano magnet doesn't work with TRP, so I bought TRP's magnet which looks "universal" for centerlock and may work with any rotor.
> I couldn't get my hands on the finned XTR rotors readily, or likely I would have gone that route in the first place.
> ...


I still don’t think that works with the HS2 as the actual centerlock section is recessed on the hub so nothing sits flush. 

For now I’m trying a 6-bolt magnet that I happen to have.










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## The Squeaky Wheel (Dec 30, 2003)

Roaming50 said:


> I still don’t think that works with the HS2 as the actual centerlock section is recessed on the hub so nothing sits flush.
> 
> For now I’m trying a 6-bolt magnet that I happen to have.
> 
> ...


I can't really tell from the photo if the TRP would work. Maybe, maybe not. . My setup isn't recessed like yours. Looks like you figured it out nicely though.
My friend just sticks a highly magnetic rare earth magnet on his rotor and has never had problems. Carrying a spare in a pack, in the unlikely case it dislodges, is prudent.


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## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

I just did this, Shirgura-ing my Rise required pulling the Magura hose through. At least on my bike, there was a ton of friction in the motor casing area and then it was impossible to pull a hose up through the downtube without some serious binding with another housing or maybe the battery. So I dropped the motor, made some room and then pulled the Park Tool back through from the lever with the Shimano hose. I then clipped the Magura level off and attached the Magura hose, then using a combination of pulling and pushing. In particular I found I had to push the hose up the downtube, for if I pulled it with the Park Tool it was getting caught. Anyway, relatively easy. Now I also need to solve the magnet problem so I can use the thicker Magura rotors.


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