# There are 3 holes at each V-brake mounting post



## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

These are near the brake bosses. Do I use the middle one for all brake arms? What are they used for?


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

Are you talking about the holes where the brake springs lock into? I use them to balance the spring strength on both sides so that the brakes clear the rim wall equally.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Yes. Use the middle hole?


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

Those holes give you three choices for the spring tension that returns your brake levers to their normal position after you let go of them. I like a good, snappy return when I let off the lever pressure. When I rebuild older department-store bikes for friends, I almost always choose the hole giving the greatest tension. Then I balance the strength using the adjustment screws so that the pads are equidistant from the rims.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

So is it the middle hole that gives optimal arm return? 

Do both pair of brake arm springs need to be in the same hole? What if you have the right arm spring in the middle hole and the left arm spring in one of the outer holes?


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

So is it the middle hole that gives optimal arm return? 

Do both pair of brake arm springs need to be in the same hole? What if you have the right arm spring in the middle hole and the left arm spring in one of the outer holes?


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Depends on the brake. Low end, or really old brakes benefit from more tension, or placement in the lower hole. Mismatching holes will result in brake arms that have uneven tension, and return differently. One side may rub on the rim.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

djork said:


> So is it the middle hole that gives optimal arm return?


The definition of "optimal" is up to you. Middle is the default that I see on bikes. As Berkley notes, low-end, old brakes often benefit from an increase in tension. If brakes are working fine in the middle, then leave them. If you're not getting enough "snap" when you release the lever, then try changing the hole.



> Do both pair of brake arm springs need to be in the same hole?


Yes. For all practical purposes, yes.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

I'm pretty sure the three holes are carryovers from canti days, when not all return springs were created equal. When V brakes came out they were saying that you should always use the middle hole. A lot of forks and some frames have been omitting the other two now that cantis are gone. Obviously the other two holes can be used if you think it's necessary but the middle hole is the default choice and will work 98% of the time assuming the cable and housing is in good shape.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Thanks for the info, guys! 

Customfab: You're right, This is for a bike that originally came with cantilevers. Hate them! A coworker gave me her son's '96 Raleigh M50 bike with cantis. Gonna make an SS out of it. I'm in the process of stripping it of all parts except the headset. (I'm keeping the wheels becasue they're still good and I want to spend no more than $150 on the upgrade.) I have a set of V-brakes plus all the noodles and small pieces to re-do the brakes. I just couldn't recall what the little holes are meant for or which ones I should place the arm spring in.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

I was also wondering if I need to grease the brake bosses/studs before sliding in the V-brake arm? I've read somewhere that you need to, but wouldn't that attract dirt? I don't remember greasing the studs the last time I installed V-brakes.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

djork said:


> I was also wondering if I need to grease the brake bosses/studs before sliding in the V-brake arm? I've read somewhere that you need to, but wouldn't that attract dirt? I don't remember greasing the studs the last time I installed V-brakes.


grease them up


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## cautery (Aug 1, 2006)

djork said:


> I was also wondering if I need to grease the brake bosses/studs before sliding in the V-brake arm? I've read somewhere that you need to, but wouldn't that attract dirt? I don't remember greasing the studs the last time I installed V-brakes.


Customfab is right... grease them... 1) for lubrication, but IMHO 2) to reduce moisture infiltration. I use a thicker grease from the gun world called "SlideGlide" from brianenos.com. There are (or used to be) 3 grades. I use the thickest grade, #3, and basically pack the brake boss hole with it. (I put a cotton swab tip in the threaded portion of the boss to keep the grease out when I mount it). The grease fills all the recesses, as squeezes out the excess... It's a little bit of clean up, but it keeps dirt/water away from the boss and out of the brake mechanism/pivot and spring.

I remove/clean/re-apply about once a year.


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## trythis (Sep 11, 2011)

I have V brakes, and had to use a high tension hole on one and middle hole on the other. I guess one of the springs was worn out or bent. 

I had the adjuster screw out all the way on one side, and in on the other and it still would not center out. Of course, if they are working the way they are, leave 'em.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

> Customfab is right... grease them... 1) for lubrication, but IMHO 2) to reduce moisture infiltration. I use a thicker grease from the gun world called "SlideGlide" from brianenos.com. There are (or used to be) 3 grades. I use the thickest grade, #3, and basically pack the brake boss hole with it. (I put a cotton swab tip in the threaded portion of the boss to keep the grease out when I mount it). The grease fills all the recesses, as squeezes out the excess... It's a little bit of clean up, but it keeps dirt/water away from the boss and out of the brake mechanism/pivot and spring.
> 
> I remove/clean/re-apply about once a year.


Cautery: Do you mean greasing the threads of the bolts that go into the frame? I was wondering more about the two studs with smooth exterior that the V arms go onto and which rotate on.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Quality v-brakes generally don't pivot on the boss, rather they pivot on a bushing in the brake itself. If it's one which doesn't rotate, then use anti-seize on the boss. Regardless, use anti-sieze on the bolt holding it one.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

bad mechanic said:


> Quality v-brakes generally don't pivot on the boss, rather they pivot on a bushing in the brake itself. If it's one which doesn't rotate, then use anti-seize on the boss. Regardless, use anti-sieze on the bolt holding it one.


Sorry if I'm not being clear. Maybe I didn't mean that the V-brake arms pivot on the two posts/studs/bosses that stick out of the fork or seat stays. Picture the bottom end of the V-brake arms where there is a hole. This hole is placed over one of the posts where it is secured by a bolt that goes into the post. Does the inside of the hole need to be lubricated, or conversely, does the post that accepts the V-brake arm need to be lubricated?

Maybe I need to lok at the V-brake bosses again?


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

djork said:


> Sorry if I'm not being clear. Maybe I didn't mean that the V-brake arms pivot on the two posts/studs/bosses that stick out of the fork or seat stays. Picture the bottom end of the V-brake arms where there is a hole. This hole is placed over one of the posts where it is secured by a bolt that goes into the post. Does the inside of the hole need to be lubricated, or conversely, does the post that accepts the V-brake arm need to be lubricated?
> 
> Maybe I need to lok at the V-brake bosses again?


Bad Mechanic is saying that nothing should rotate around the boss (post) that sticks out. there is (should be) a brass bushing in the brake arm itself that the arm rotates on.
None the less, greasing the outside of the post and the inside of the hole (best accomp-lished by just applying to the bolt threads) is a good idea.
Anti-seize is also fine - I have my bikes apart enough that it doesn't really matter  - just use something.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

djork said:


> Sorry if I'm not being clear. Maybe I didn't mean that the V-brake arms pivot on the two posts/studs/bosses that stick out of the fork or seat stays. Picture the bottom end of the V-brake arms where there is a hole. This hole is placed over one of the posts where it is secured by a bolt that goes into the post. Does the inside of the hole need to be lubricated, or conversely, does the post that accepts the V-brake arm need to be lubricated?


...I just answered that question...

If you have the type of v-brake which doesn't pivot on the brake boss itself (and you probably do), then anti-seize is better to use there than grease. Regardless, use anti-seize on the bolt.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Thanks, guys! Apparently, I was picturing the mechanism of the V-brake arm a bit inaccurately and thus confusing and frustrating myself. I took out the set of Avid V-brakes I have in my parts bin and looked at it so I could see what you guys were trying to tell me. The bolt that goes through the hole of the arm has anti-sieze on it and this bolt threads into the post in which the V-brake slides onto. I was a bit confused why I would need to apply anti-sieze on the post itself. I can see now how the V-brake arm doesn't pivot on the post, but I suppose it's good to lube it a bit?


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

^^^ yeah, just to stave off any corrosion


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