# Best gear ratio for climbing?



## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

I have a Scott Scale 29 that I'm looking to maybe convert into a SS. What gear ratio is recommended for a guy who spends all his saddle time on the climbs? I generally climb on the middle front chainring along with the 3rd rear cog. On very long and steep climbs I switch to first chainring and 3rd or 4th rear cog.

What would be the best ratio for my needs?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

What gradient are you riding? How strong are you?

You will need to figure out the best ratio for you yourself. No-one else can help you. From what you have stated, start there. If it is too easy, gear up. If too difficult, gear down.


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## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

Shalom said:


> What gradient are you riding? How strong are you?
> 
> You will need to figure out the best ratio for you yourself. No-one else can help you. From what you have stated, start there. If it is too easy, gear up. If too difficult, gear down.


To be honest I'm not very sure of the gradient I'm riding but it is pretty steep. I would consider myself to be an extremely strong climber. I'm definitely one of the fastest climbers in my area.

What is the regular ratio singlespeeders are riding these days?


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## Shalom (Nov 7, 2008)

Pick one of the ones you mentioned. Give it a shot. You will learn how to climb standing very quickly.

As for ratios - they are personal, decided on by the strength of the rider, their ride style (spinner/grinder), the terrain they ride etc.

There is no standard. Everyone comes upon their ratio by trial and error.

I am guessing here (I am too lazy to google it) that your middle chainring is a 32. No idea what cassette you are running, though, so you will have to work that out.

Once you have those numbers, work out the gear inches and find some equivalent gearing that will work for you.

The 'recommended' starting point is 2:1 (so 32:16). But if you are doing lots of climbing, drop that ratio.


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## can't get right (May 15, 2005)

I would start with a 32x20 but I know a climbing fool like yourself who swears by his 32x22. He will sit and spin when I am standing and grinding. 
He can and has to spin a 115 cadence on the flat to keep up.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

use whatever gear challenges you but leaves a little forgiveness so you can make it. for a 29er, i would start with 32/20 and go to a 22t in the rear if that's too tough, or 18t if you want something harder.


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## ancient rascal (Mar 2, 2010)

+1 with 32x20 for steeps. I think having a few cogs around to choose from is good.


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## jackspade (Jul 23, 2010)

Walking is still the best ratio for climbing.


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## CB2 (May 7, 2006)

I used to reserve 34x21 (on a 29'er) for races with over 200' of climbing per mile, but recently tried an experiment of running that ratio on my local trails which only average about 100' feet per mile. It was really fun. A little slower on the climbs, a lot slower on the fireroads and the ride to the trails, but quicker in the twisty singletrack where it let me stay seated and spin fast out of every corner.


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## drofluf (Dec 12, 2010)

Start with your middle/3rd cog combination like others have said and work from there. What works for you will depend on your local terrain and whether you're a spinner or a grinder.


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## TroutBum (Feb 16, 2004)

Trail Addict said:


> I generally climb on the middle front chainring along with the 3rd rear cog.


Wherever you go... there you are.


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## PeopleForScience (May 15, 2012)

Best gear for climbing? 22x36. You will be able to sit and spin up anything, just dont try to go fast on the flats


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## bgfthntr (May 18, 2009)

CB2 said:


> I used to reserve 34x21 (on a 29'er) for races with over 200' of climbing per mile, but recently tried an experiment of running that ratio on my local trails which only average about 100' feet per mile. It was really fun. A little slower on the climbs, a lot slower on the fireroads and the ride to the trails, but quicker in the twisty singletrack where it let me stay seated and spin fast out of every corner.


same setup here for a 26'r. Works great and the for steep stuff just stand and pedal....:thumbsup:


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

When you get your SS, just buy a bunch of cogs. My bike came with a 32/18, and I bought 20, 17,16,15, and 14T cogs. The cheap ones are like $5. 

As an example, I put the 18T on there when I'm riding XC trails, and the 15 for riding around on the streets. 
Riding on the street is easy because most of it is flat, so you choose the most comfortable ratio for you on flat pavement. On the trails, you're gonna go slower and be going up more, so you want a lower ratio.

The only way is to experiment and ride. Luckily, having a geared bike makes it easy. If your geared bike is also a 29er, you can just do direct comparisons. If it's a 26er, those have slightly lower overall ratios because of the smaller wheel. 
Go ride and stay in one gear that feels right, and that's your gear.


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## HOV (Apr 16, 2012)

How you climb is pretty important too. For me, singlespeed climbing is all about standing/pulling on bars/mashing on pedals. I'm adapted to the short duration, steep stuff we have here - that approach would not be viable for climbing a mountain as found out west. I'm pretty used to riding 32/18 and that keeps my speed up pretty well on climbs, but there's no way I could climb with that gearing seated.

One thing to consider is the amount of teeth that the chain will contact. 36/18 should produce similar results as 32/16, but the larger setup will have more teeth contacing the chain, which I like. The flip side to that is a larger chainring has a greater chance of being bashed. With a 3x tooth chainring though, I don't think that's a huge factor.


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## TCXJWAGONEER (Dec 9, 2007)

I am running 33/20 and love it for climbing. I wear out the local college students who are running geared expensive bikes. Makes me happy when I power past them on climbs while they do the walk of shame.

Tommy


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## fryed_1 (Nov 8, 2010)

34/18 works perfect in the hill of eastern virginia.


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## kateroo (May 7, 2012)

I run 32x24..... Seriously. So much of Pisgah is straight up, then straight down, spinning out is the least of my concerns. There is probably about 10 miles of "contour" trail in the 400+ miles of bike access. 32x24 makes 7 miles continuous climbing doable for me. Quality time in the forest has become more important to me than speed. If I don't blow up within an hour of leaving the trail head, I'm in a position to ride all day long. And I love that.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

Whatever your heart can handle. It will be hurting before your legs do.
I run 34/20 on a 29er.


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## Oliver (May 18, 2005)

33x21 on mine.


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## asphaltdude (Sep 17, 2008)

Trail Addict said:


> What gear ratio is recommended for a guy who spends all his saddle time on the climbs? I generally climb on the middle front chainring along with the 3rd rear cog. On very long and steep climbs I switch to first chainring and 3rd or 4th rear cog.


On a SS, you don't choose a ratio for climbing, you choose 1 ratio to ride everything. You might need to change your climbing style (stand and mash!) to make it up long steep climbs.


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

HOV said:


> How you climb is pretty important too. For me, singlespeed climbing is all about standing/pulling on bars/mashing on pedals. I'm adapted to the short duration, steep stuff we have here - that approach would not be viable for climbing a mountain as found out west. I'm pretty used to riding 32/18 and that keeps my speed up pretty well on climbs, but there's no way I could climb with that gearing seated.
> 
> One thing to consider is the amount of teeth that the chain will contact. 36/18 should produce similar results as 32/16, but the larger setup will have more teeth contacing the chain, which I like. The flip side to that is a larger chainring has a greater chance of being bashed. With a 3x tooth chainring though, I don't think that's a huge factor.


Also, the larger your chainring, the finer you can change your ratio by switching cogs. Since the chain is fixed half inch pitch, the smallest increment you can change ratios is by one tooth (obviously). The larger the chainring, the less percent change there is from going up or down one tooth on the cog.

However, larger chainrings and cogs means more weight from the cogs and the extra chain needed. It does wear slightly slower, but this really isn't much of an issue with SS stuff because it's so cheap and lasts so long compared to derailleur geared stuff.


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

fryed_1 said:


> 34/18 works perfect in the hill of eastern virginia.


Ouch. My local SoCal trails have common 300+ per mile climbs. I would walk more than i ride with that ratio. Big power need only apply to turn those pedals over.


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## Rad Rider 415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Start with a normal 32t chain ring and start anywhere from 18-21 on the rear. I'd do 32x20 to start. I run 32x21 in the winter just because it's a lil harder to pedal obviously.


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## bt (Nov 24, 2007)

38-16


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

bt said:


> 38-16


Ok, now i'm calling bs. Unless you don't have hills with more than 8% grade, you are NOT spinning that gear up a hill more than 400yds. Let alone, mashing. Got a Strava segment to show you going 13mph (spinning 70rpm with a 26in tire) up a hill?

Maybe you thought this was roadbikereview.com ?


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## Bakudan (May 19, 2011)

jetboy23 said:


> Ok, now i'm calling bs. Unless you don't have hills with more than 8% grade, you are NOT spinning that gear up a hill more than 400yds. Let alone, mashing. Got a Strava segment to show you going 13mph (spinning 70rpm with a 26in tire) up a hill?
> 
> Maybe you thought this was roadbikereview.com ?


Or he's just a badass mofo.


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

You would have to be the father of BAMFers to sit and spin 90+ rpm at 16mph up steeps. And thats with a 26" wheel. Running a 29er, that would be around 18mph.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

jetboy23 said:


> Ok, now i'm calling bs. Unless you don't have hills with more than 8% grade, you are NOT spinning that gear up a hill more than 400yds. Let alone, mashing. Got a Strava segment to show you going 13mph (spinning 70rpm with a 26in tire) up a hill?
> 
> Maybe you thought this was roadbikereview.com ?


These SS gearing threads always bring da lulz.
Why is it that anyone who runs different gearing is automatically suspect?
Sure call BS on the dude who only posted "38x16". 
He did not imply speed, cadence, or steep hills - you did.
What's your point? He rides a different gear, and somehow you feel threatened.

As a masher, I stand often, and grind my way up most sections in a 32x17. 
Is it fast - no, most can crawl faster, yet I cannot spin a 32x20 on the flats to keep up to those with gears.
Run what ya brung, have fun, and quit being one of the doubtful d-bags.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Ride whatever gear allows you to ride 90% of the hills. Or not.


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## jetboy23 (Jun 14, 2011)

Flyin_W said:


> These SS gearing threads always bring da lulz.
> Why is it that anyone who runs different gearing is automatically suspect?
> Sure call BS on the dude who only posted "38x16".
> He did not imply speed, cadence, or steep hills - you did.


Since the response with "38x16" was to the question-



Trail Addict said:


> What gear ratio is recommended for a guy who *spends all his saddle time on the climbs*? I generally climb on the middle front chainring along with the 3rd rear cog. *On very long and steep climbs* I switch to first chainring and 3rd or 4th rear cog.
> 
> *What would be the best ratio for my needs?*


I felt it was right to assume bt was saying thats what he/she runs in those conditions. I stand by calling that one out. The OPer doesn't need responses with unreasonable gear ratios that will not suit the type of riding he is asking about.



Flyin_W said:


> What's your point? He rides a different gear, and somehow you feel threatened.


I don't feel threatened at all. Often times, my climbing gear is walking. And thats with a wimpy 32x20 ratio i mash up the hill. Calling BS is not from being threatened, its from smelling BS. But, hey, you're welcome to your opinion as well. Have at it.


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## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

Flyin_W said:


> Sure call BS on the dude who only posted "38x16".
> He did not imply speed, cadence, or steep hills - you did.


I specifically emphasized climbing. If he posted a ridiculous 38x16 on a thread that is specifically about climbing and gear ratios, then don't you think he's trying to make it seem like he spends his time climbing on 38x16?

I'm with jetboy on this one. I call BS on the guy who said 38x16.

But anyways as an update I have bought several different chainrings and cogs, my LBS gave them to me at an outstanding price. I haven't installed them yet but I think I will start off with 32x20 and see where it takes me from there. I'll keep the thread updated.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Okay, so perhaps I was too hasty to defend Mr. 38x16, yet I feel the OP's premise flawed.
Too many factors make it impossible to predict the correct gearing for anyone else, 
especially for one who rides a geared bike with (most likely) a suspension.
[Your examples of middle ring + 3 down = 32 x 26 / or first ring + 4 down = 22 x 23 appears a 3x9 setup.]
Both of these indicate that you're either an uber spinner, or deal with r-e-a-l-l-y steep climbs.

Is it not possible that 38 x 16 is a masher, and the biggest hill is 200' vertical @ 4% grade?
So, although his gearing may not work for you, it's perfect for him - and hence my point.

To find your own best gearing - try locking out the suspension, use the middle ring, select and hold one cog for the entire ride. Once on a dedicated SS, most are likely to run a bigger gear, as the bike will be both lighter and more efficient.
So just go on, and ride Sally ride,


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## Possum Jones (Aug 27, 2011)

42x12

Lighten up guys lol
I'm sure 38x16 boy is sitting back with a case of the lolz


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## Possum Jones (Aug 27, 2011)

Btw, my first SS will be at my house Monday and I'll be starting with 32x20. I just left one of my usual training trails with the thought that I'm getting in over my head haha
I rode a few climby sections locked into 32x20 and I could only mash for so long. I will be walking a bit at first for sure.


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## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

100x6 is what I ride


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

I have 32/18, and thinking about going 20t in the rear. But I feel 32/18 is good compromise between hills and flats. Not too slow on flat, not too difficult on hills. I'm only considering 20t for the rear, because of the closest park with single track (which I frequent the most often) has 200m rocky hill at about 45 degrees, and I feel like throwing up every time I climb it.


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

I think only the rider can decide what the best gearing is for him/herself, based on one's fitness, and terrain they ride the most. If your favorite trail is 80% flat and 20% crazy uphills, you'll have to decide if you want to go fast on flat and walk uphill or go slow on flat and ride uphill. People on the forum can only give you a range of gear ratios (32-22/21/20/19, etc), and it's up to you to figure out what's best for you.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

4nbstd said:


> I have 32/18, and thinking about going 20t in the rear. But I feel 32/18 is good compromise between hills and flats. Not too slow on flat, not too difficult on hills. I'm only considering 20t for the rear, because of the closest park with single track (which I frequent the most often) has 200m rocky hill at about 45 degrees, and I feel like throwing up every time I climb it.


Just keep climbing that hill.


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## BroSole (Apr 7, 2012)

Trail Addict said:


> I specifically emphasized climbing. If he posted a ridiculous 38x16 on a thread that is specifically about climbing and gear ratios, then don't you think he's trying to make it seem like he spends his time climbing on 38x16?
> 
> I'm with jetboy on this one. I call BS on the guy who said 38x16.
> 
> But anyways as an update I have bought several different chainrings and cogs, my LBS gave them to me at an outstanding price. I haven't installed them yet but I think I will start off with 32x20 and see where it takes me from there. I'll keep the thread updated.


135 pound internet strong man.


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## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

nevermind


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## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

I think that we should start calling our bikes 'All Terrain Bikes' instead of 'Mountain Bikes' because I know for damn sure that some of these bikes never come close to being in the mountains, not with the gear combinations stated. 

Telling us your location would go a long way towards understanding your choice of gearing. I cant imagine anything bigger than 32/20 on a 26" bike or 32/22 on a 29er. I live in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in Alberta Canada. 38/16 dude is invited to come for a ride anytime.


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## Sage of the Sage (Nov 10, 2011)

I ride in southern Idaho. We have some really good climbs, and we've also got nice flowy terrain. I ride 34/20, and can make it up most of the hills I have to climb. I may not go very fast, but I've perfected the slow mash to keep my HR down. Thus I am better able to ride the flats and more flowy sections by maintaining momentum.


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## christop1977 (May 16, 2012)

Im running 32-23 here for southern Ohio. I have tried 18 and 20. But for my fat butt 23 is perfect for me....


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## bt (Nov 24, 2007)

bump


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## vindiggitydog (Aug 6, 2008)

Been running 32-20 here in SLC, UT for the last 5 years.......no need to change. I like to be able to adjust my riding instead of my gear ratio. It's quite nice to spin a little on the flats after mashing it up some serious steeps!! Definitely depends on the main terrain of your domain!!


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

The best gear ratio you can climb on is the one that your ego can handle the best. If you cant handle others riders giving you crap because you are not running 2:1....then you will probably be walking quite a bit. 

My ego is fine with 32x22. Can climb most trails here in So. Cal comfortably, and be able to actually sit on gradual climbs.


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## Trail Addict (Nov 20, 2011)

32x18 seems to be working just fine for me. It's a hell of a workout but it will build up my endurance more than where it's already at.

Thanks for the replies guys.


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## blum585 (Mar 28, 2012)

I revert back to a 35x19 when I need to go easy - coming from the midwest in a location where the climbs are steep yet cover about 400' of vertical per climb (or less). 

My question back is: What did you do to convert your Scott Scale to a S.S.?


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## jeepinjeepin (Jan 29, 2016)

jetboy23 said:


> Ok, now i'm calling bs. Unless you don't have hills with more than 8% grade, you are NOT spinning that gear up a hill more than 400yds. Let alone, mashing. Got a Strava segment to show you going 13mph (spinning 70rpm with a 26in tire) up a hill?
> 
> Maybe you thought this was roadbikereview.com ?


Necro quote post. Here's a Strava segment. It's steep. It's ~350 yards, so it's close. It is NOT 13mph. ~30 pound 38/19 69er and I'm 205lbs

https://www.strava.com/activities/482997964


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Revival!!!!


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

jeepinjeepin said:


> Necro quote post. Here's a Strava segment. It's steep. It's ~350 yards, so it's close. It is NOT 13mph. ~30 pound 38/19 69er and I'm 205lbs
> 
> https://www.strava.com/activities/482997964


That is a road segment....not sure what your point is????


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

34X20 on my two 26" single speeds has worked fine in Big Bear, CA and now Prescott, AZ. I had no where to start so I simply asked my frame builder.


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## floorguy724 (Apr 20, 2004)

For mostly climbing, I'd start with 32-20 and work from there. 

It's a good ratio and you can adjust up or down from there. 

I started with a 32-20 and moved to a 32-18 for my everyday gear ratio on my 29+. Sure I still walk some sections, but it's the best overall ratio for me and my fitness (for now).

Fort Ord/Sea Otter is where I ride 99%of the time. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note 5


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

32/21 on my 13.5kg 29er and I'm still walking bits of most rides.
34/20 on the 26er, but it's about 10kg, so feels similar.


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## Sattvic (Jul 28, 2013)

Sitting down, Standing up, walking - those are my three gears.

I use the last one A LOT in Japan. This place has nothing but steep hills! I ride 32:23 on 29+ rubber. Most of the locals on "skinny" 29ers are on 32:22. Nobody is unfit or fat/heavy, but ****'s steep. 

At the end of the day it doesn't matter one bit - just ride the gear that gives you the most fun on the trails. 

On a 29er I'd say start on 32:20 and go from there. Buy a bunch of cogs - most singlespeeders have a bunch of cogs in the garage.

If anything get a rigid fork - makes for so much more fun embracing the grind on the climbs ;-)


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## BigDriveLittleWedge (Jan 2, 2014)

32x22 on 29er in Colorado. I could probably ride 32x20, but that's easy to say here at the computer in my office. When I'm in the mountains I am very happy with my set up


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## mattbyke (Jan 14, 2015)

30 tooth oval with white ind 23 rear. Great for the technical, and I sit longer on climbs. Along with plus size 29 wheels; rigid SS is too much fun . I'm 46 and 190 lbs. I'm all about keeping it fun.


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## cmc4130 (Jan 30, 2008)

This is a total math nerd question, but for you guys who write "x" in between the ratio.... Like 32x20. . . Why do you do that? A ratio is fraction. It's division. 

32 / 20 X 29 = 46.4 gear inches

32 / 16 x 26 = 52 gear inches 

etc.


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## chuckha62 (Jul 11, 2006)

cmc4130 said:


> This is a total math nerd question, but for you guys who write "x" in between the ratio.... Like 32x20. . . Why do you do that? A ratio is fraction. It's division.
> 
> 32 / 20 X 29 = 46.4 gear inches
> 
> ...


Technically when quoting ratios, isn't the correct way to do it, like this?: 32:16 (2:1), 32:18, 34:20, etc.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

cmc4130 said:


> This is a total math nerd question, but for you guys who write "x" in between the ratio.... Like 32x20. . . Why do you do that? A ratio is fraction. It's division.


probably the same reason why a board approximately 2 inches in one dimension and 4 inches in the other is called a "two by four" or 2x4. or a "four by four" truck is a 4X4. X is not a mathmatical stand-in, but a lingual one for "by." it's not accurate and probably confusing, but one of those things that has just become a kind of colloquialism within the cycling community.


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## gsteitz (Sep 9, 2011)

Um....the one you like?


No seriously, it's just trial and error for the terrain around you (probably echoing much of this thread!). Most folks around me (Austin) run 32:20. I ran 32:19 for a long time and was fine, then switched to 30:19 with 170mm cranks after a proper bike fit. Feels great to me, climbs a little easier and I don't feel like I'm giving up much on the flats. Plus it gives a bit more chainring clearance for the constant ledges and rock gardens we call trails!


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

Can we just leave this four year old thread alone? There's no hope for the OP if he hasn't figured out his gearing by now.


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## fishywishy (Feb 23, 2008)

32:22 and can make just about all steep technical climbs. cant go very fast on flats tho


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## c8stom (May 19, 2015)

Trail Addict said:


> I specifically emphasized climbing. If he posted a ridiculous 38x16 on a thread that is specifically about climbing and gear ratios, then don't you think he's trying to make it seem like he spends his time climbing on 38x16?
> 
> I'm with jetboy on this one. I call BS on the guy who said 38x16.
> 
> But anyways as an update I have bought several different chainrings and cogs, my LBS gave them to me at an outstanding price. I haven't installed them yet but I think I will start off with 32x20 and see where it takes me from there. I'll keep the thread updated.


Can someone remind me what the issue is with sticking to a 1xN geared bike ? Seems alot of trouble and cost building the perfect SS for climbing. Commuting or cruising I can understand but climbing, hmmm

Actually, don't remind me. I can guess.


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## economatic (Apr 18, 2006)

Nice revival of the thread.

I have to assume there is a reason a big bike manufacturer named Specialized has a 32/20 on the Crave SL. Probably because, like floorguy724 said, it is a good starting point. When I was new to the SS game that is what I rode and even raced for the first time and it worked well.

FWIW, I ride trails around Bend, OR and run 32/17 this year after graduating from 32/18 last year. It keeps the technical stuff plenty challenging while giving decent speed on the flats.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

c8stom said:


> Can someone remind me what the issue is with sticking to a 1xN geared bike ? Seems alot of trouble and cost building the perfect SS for climbing. Commuting or cruising I can understand but climbing, hmmm
> 
> Actually, don't remind me. I can guess.


The issue with 1xN is if N>1 then it's not a single speed.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

32x20 works a charm where I ride (SoCal mountains--Angeles, San Bernardino, etc.--rocky, gnarly climbing…constantly….climbing….). Maybe I'm not that strong but even with 32x20 I still almost never sit down


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## Timon (May 11, 2008)

edit: didn't realize old thread. let it die


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

nomit said:


> edit: didn't realize old thread. let it die


And that makes it irrelevant?


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## cstem (Jan 13, 2006)

GHEY- just ride your effin bike. Put whatever gear you want on it, when it sucks try a different one. And eff you math nerd. This is not math, its riding bikes. For ****s sake, some people try to make riding bikes like real life with rules and ****.


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## Bad V2 (Jan 28, 2008)

cstem said:


> Put whatever gear you want on it, when it sucks try a different one.


Amen! Haaaaaaaa!


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## squak (Feb 13, 2006)

33:21

It's a scientifically proven fact that chainrings and cogs with an odd number of teeth are easier to pedal. Even better than oval.


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## cstem (Jan 13, 2006)

cstem said:


> GHEY- just ride your effin bike. Put whatever gear you want on it, when it sucks try a different one. And eff you math nerd. This is not math, its riding bikes. For ****s sake, some people try to make riding bikes like real life with rules and ****.


And I even got neg rep from Varaxis. Thanks Choda-Boy!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

cstem said:


> And I even got neg rep from Varaxis.


I understand why.


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## SingleSpeedScott (Aug 16, 2005)

I run a 34x22 on the 29er. 

On steep climbs I have to say the 180mm cranks also help a lot with out of the saddle efforts


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

SingleSpeedScott said:


> I run a 34x22 on the 29er.
> 
> On steep climbs I have to say the 180mm cranks also help a lot with out of the saddle efforts


I've just changed from 180s to 175s to help with my spinning.
Yet to see any climbing impact.


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## Impetus (Aug 10, 2014)

32x22 29er.
Spinning out at 120rpm only going 14-ish mph gets a little annoying some days, but I can generally ride 100% of any loop, so it's a trade-off I'll take.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

ARandomBiker said:


> 32x22 29er.
> Spinning out at 120rpm only going 14-ish mph gets a little annoying some days.


I treat it as enforced recovery and only spin to about 100rpm


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Sorry to bump an such an old thread, but I don't feel this question is worthy of a new thread. So let's just ignore any flame war BS that happened previously...

How do you all adjust gearing when you know you're going to a trail that has tons of technical features on climbs and grades of 10% or higher? Do you just keep it about the same and see what you can clear, then walk when you have to?

For the record I'm running an abysmally low 34:22 on a 26" bike, but this isn't really about that, just curious how things like rock gardens on uphill sections changes your gear when you head out.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

not my photo, but for reference:


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Changing cogs is a pain in the ass. Especially if you don't have the length in your drop out to change cogs without needing to add or remove chain links. 

So once I find a ratio I like (usually 30x20) I leave it on fairly permanently. That said, I've recently put a 24t cog on my Karate Monkey (so now 32-24) for the winter riding that is approaching. Riding around doesn't really feel any different. 


There are benefits to a higher gear. Going through technical sections, your feet are coming down less since the cadence is lower. With higher gears, I tend to feel like I'm floating through chunk more than smashing through it like people do with gears. 

Lastly, whether I show up with 28x24 or 32x16, if I'm at the trailhead with my bike, I'm going to pedal whatever gear is on it. I may need to walk some more stuff with the higher gear, but I tend to believe that people will always do better than they think they will with a higher gear, you just need to get out and try it. 

All of this from a guy running a relatively low SS gear....


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Shinkers said:


> Changing cogs is a pain in the ass. Especially if you don't have the length in your drop out to change cogs without needing to add or remove chain links.
> 
> So once I find a ratio I like (usually 30x20) I leave it on fairly permanently. That said, I've recently put a 24t cog on my Karate Monkey (so now 32-24) for the winter riding that is approaching. Riding around doesn't really feel any different.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the perspective. I have to admit I'm riding an '02 Monocog with 2.4" wide tires, so the wheel has to be back in the dropout, which means, yes changing freewheels would be a massive pain in the rump. Also, It came with 38:19 setup, which isn't necessarily too hard (it is for me if there's anything technical), but that's just too big of a chainring to be schlepping over rocks. I was riding 34:19 and thought it seemed kinda difficult, but when I changed my freewheel to 22t I also repacked wheel bearings and replaced the bottom bracket, and now I do believe 19t would've been formidable.

Of course I still have fun. I did 6 miles of techy stuff yesterday. Yeah, I walked what I had to, but sometimes if you have to stop it's fun to go back downhill a bit and see what you can tackle on round 2. Usually I find that I at least get past whatever stopped me the first time.


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## mr_chrome (Jan 17, 2005)

- I've changed ratios a few times as I've gotten older AND changed bike components......it's a combination of multiple things and you have to try different things to find the combination that works for you - yes, that means I have a few extra cogs and another chainring but getting my SS right for the rides I do is what was important........


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I usually leave it (29er) in 32/22 and don't worry about rock gardens, as I find it's more the gradient that concerns. Lower gearing in rock gardens can be a hindrance.
I'll change ratios from 32/(22-21-20) with the same chain and if there's an event that needs a bigger jump, will go to a different chain, chainring and cog.
Gravel race on 36/18 (steep hills) or a flat(ish) XC at 34/19.


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## hardmtnbiker (Feb 22, 2005)

I’ve pretty much kept to my same trails for many years on my 26” wheel SS and then my 29er. My trails are steep with loose rocks ( San Gabriel Mtns in LA County CA) 
I started my 29er rig with 34x20 but that was with narrow Stan’s Arch rims and 2.1” tires.
Now my wheels are WTB i35 rims and 2.4 minimum tires. I have 32x20 and I stand up about 60% of my climbs. I switched to 32x22 and don’t need to stand much and I’m putting a 2.6” tire on. It’s really loose because it never rains and my trails get lots of use. I’d rather have a fat stable tire and easy gears then skinny tire and hard gears. That’s just my take.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Word up, thanks y'all. I'll keep it the way it is and then probably switch to 34:20 after a while. No sense in not using a brand new freewheel. Maybe work my way down from there, or just enjoy pedaling my legs off on easier trails.


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

NDD said:


> Sorry to bump an such an old thread, but I don't feel this question is worthy of a new thread. So let's just ignore any flame war BS that happened previously...
> 
> How do you all adjust gearing when you know you're going to a trail that has tons of technical features on climbs and grades of 10% or higher? Do you just keep it about the same and see what you can clear, then walk when you have to?
> 
> For the record I'm running an abysmally low 34:22 on a 26" bike, but this isn't really about that, just curious how things like rock gardens on uphill sections changes your gear when you head out.


I would gear down, but I believe it's much easier for me to change cogs than you. I'd cut a new 8 speed chain if I had to.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

Rod said:


> I would gear down, but I believe it's much easier for me to change cogs than you. I'd cut a new 8 speed chain if I had to.


Yes, that's the beauty of having cogs vs. freewheel, and maybe a chain tensioner? I have sliding dropouts, but am limited in space, because I can't put wheels far forward. At some point there's the element of HTFU. Part of my problem with technical climbs is that I'm simply lacking in some important skills. If I lose momentum or any reason, I'm done until I can get started pedaling again. Been working on track stands, hops and such to try to improve, overall riding more physically. It's been fun. I did 6 miles the other day, mostly technical climbing stuff. Some stuff I couldn't believe I did clear, some stuff I couldn't believe I didn't (fwiw I pulled a muscle in my lower back the night before).


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## Rod (Oct 17, 2007)

NDD said:


> Yes, that's the beauty of having cogs vs. freewheel, and maybe a chain tensioner? I have sliding dropouts, but am limited in space, because I can't put wheels far forward. At some point there's the element of HTFU. Part of my problem with technical climbs is that I'm simply lacking in some important skills. If I lose momentum or any reason, I'm done until I can get started pedaling again. Been working on track stands, hops and such to try to improve, overall riding more physically. It's been fun. I did 6 miles the other day, mostly technical climbing stuff. Some stuff I couldn't believe I did clear, some stuff I couldn't believe I didn't (fwiw I pulled a muscle in my lower back the night before).


I have sliding dropouts too, but mine are a little nicer than the monocog I had before. I no longer need to reset my brake caliper after taking the wheel on and off. If I move more than 2 teeth size, I have to cut a chain though. I then put my other chain back into its case with a label describing what gears I can use it with. Currently, I have a chain for 34x20, 34x18, and 34x16.

You're right, if you lose momentum, it's over. Either you have to plow through with a big gear or pick your way through with a smaller gear hoping you don't spin out. It sounds like you're on the right path though. You're out there working your way through these rock gardens and making your gearing work. Track stands are a foreign concept to me. I'm the plow through the rocks and cut my rear tire type of rider.


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## Kedar Bhujel (May 12, 2021)

jackspade said:


> Walking is still the best ratio for climbing.


 true


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