# Tensioner v. Eccentric Bottom Bracket



## Lars_D (May 24, 2011)

I am considering putting a Rohloff XL on my Fatbike (a Salsa Mukluk) in the spring. The frame has vertical drop outs and takes a 100mm threaded bottom bracket. I am wondering what the consensus is on the best way to obtain proper chain tension--tensioner (like the singulator) or eccentric bottom bracket (like the Philcentric)? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.


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## Giel (Jan 16, 2011)

Take an eccenter for cleaner and sharper looks. Normally works fine, the only issue you might have is that you may need to use a half-link, the throw of a philcentric or Exzentriker is a wee bit smaller than that of a regular eccentric BB.


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## Lars_D (May 24, 2011)

Giel said:


> Take an eccenter for cleaner and sharper looks. Normally works fine, the only issue you might have is that you may need to use a half-link, the throw of a philcentric or Exzentriker is a wee bit smaller than that of a regular eccentric BB.


One problem that I have heard with the eccentric BB can be re-installing chain. Have you had any experience with that?


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## Giel (Jan 16, 2011)

Lars_D said:


> One problem that I have heard with the eccentric BB can be re-installing chain. Have you had any experience with that?


When putting the rear wheel back in you mean? I haven't had that issue. But dropouts on my bikes are angled slightly forward which decreases the tension on chain (belt in my case) when removing the wheel. Note that my bikes are designed around an eccentric BB. If your dropouts are dead vertical then the issue you describe may arise. Can't give you a definitive answer I am afraid. Perhaps drop the guys at cycle monkey a line?


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## shwinboy (Jan 13, 2004)

Tensioners are cheap and are set and forget and simple to install and maintain. Ebbs like the phil centric or trick stuff give a neater chain line but are in the $250 to $300 range. Also they both need a special tool to install so if you do touring with the bike , unless you have the tool (and a big ass spanner and c clamp in the case of the trick stuff) they can't be tightened in the event the come lose in the field. This is an actual concern because if your crank spindle is between 1 and 6 o'clock position to take up the chain slack, the pedaling forces work to un do the bb. Also with the ebb you may need to modify or buy new cranks to fit. I had to grind the granny ring tabs off to clear the bb cups. You can't do this with a set of xtr 975 cranks but xt down you can. 
So a tensioner is the easy way to go. Ebb if aesthetics are a concern but you will need to do some dicking around to make it work.


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## DUBOW (Jun 13, 2013)

First time posting, re the chain tensioner route I tried many including a Rohloff one and they were all unsatisfactory .I tried half links and that did not work for me .I altered the frame myself from vertical to horizontal .I am much happier with this set up .

DUBOW


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## Lars_D (May 24, 2011)

DUBOW said:


> First time posting, re the chain tensioner route I tried many including a Rohloff one and they were all unsatisfactory .I tried half links and that did not work for me .I altered the frame myself from vertical to horizontal .I am much happier with this set up .
> 
> DUBOW


Good advice.


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## Pinchphlat (Feb 27, 2009)

I vote one for the Yess Pro ETR/B. It is a bottom bracket mounted chain tensioner, and kicks butt over all other tensioning options (sliders, EBB, or derailleur mounted tensioners) both in weight and tensioning ability.


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## DUBOW (Jun 13, 2013)

Pinchphlat said:


> I vote one for the Yess Pro ETR/B. It is a bottom bracket mounted chain tensioner, and kicks butt over all other tensioning options (sliders, EBB, or derailleur mounted tensioners) both in weight and tensioning ability.


I took a look at the Yess and I am sure its a good unit .Nothing can beat straight chain tensioned between sproket and chaing ring when you are stomping and hacking . Remember I set the tension of the chain not a spring which will eventually get weaker and can never be as tight or maintenance free . But I took the action I did becase of the noise of the tensioners ,getting the pulley aligned with the chain ,unclean look ,and they can also be hit out of adjustment just like a deraileur .I know not everyone has access to machine tools and welding equipment and the will to change and modify a frame ,but this is how I took care of the tension issue . I made the slots in the drop out extra long so pushing the wheel forward makes taking the chain off easier .

Dubow NY


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Lars_D said:


> I am considering putting a Rohloff XL on my Fatbike (a Salsa Mukluk) in the spring. The frame has vertical drop outs and takes a 100mm threaded bottom bracket. I am wondering what the consensus is on the best way to obtain proper chain tension--tensioner (like the singulator) or eccentric bottom bracket (like the Philcentric)? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.


If you are going to use a chain tensioner go with a dual pulley version like the Rohloff. I've used one for years and they work great. Much more robust than a dérailleur.

Having said that given the cost of a Rohloff I wouldn't mess with tensioners or EBB [unless it was a proper one built into the frame]. You are buying a bombproof nearly maintenance-free expensive drivetrain. It makes sense to do it right. Sell the Muk and buy a newer Salsa frame with the swinging dropouts.

You'll be happier.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

DUBOW said:


> First time posting, re the chain tensioner route I tried many including a Rohloff one and they were all unsatisfactory .I tried half links and that did not work for me .I altered the frame myself from vertical to horizontal .I am much happier with this set up .
> 
> DUBOW


Dialled Bikes Alpine with ROAD tyres??


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## Pinchphlat (Feb 27, 2009)

DUBOW, I am impressed at your frame modification efforts! However I prefer to keep my frames built in their original design, rather than be subjecting them to my rather poor amateur mechanical skills 

The Yess Pro BB tensioner works very well for me and is more than robust enough for my 87kg (190lb) off-road stomping efforts. I have never thrown a chain once with it. It is also maintenance free - I have never adjusted the tensioner once since installing it three years ago.

As for comments about tensioners getting knocked out of alignment, that is certainly true of derailleur-tab mounted tensioners, but not BB versions. My Yess pro tensioner is protected by the front chainring, and so doesn't get hit or snared by anything. It also gives a really nice clean look to the drivetrain.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Here's what I've been using on my SS I've used a bunch of other methods on other bikes and besides sliders/rockers this is my new go to.


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## CyberGolem (Feb 13, 2013)

That's really trick. What BB and tensioner is that?



OFFcourse said:


> Here's what I've been using on my SS I've used a bunch of other methods on other bikes and besides sliders/rockers this is my new go to.
> 
> View attachment 923472


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Standard threaded BB, remove a spacer from the driveside and replace with blackspire stinger - the roller has about 30mm of adjustment and anymore required can be achieved by changing the angle of the stinger. When the chain wears just give the bottom of the stinger a few good whacks with a rubber mallet - tensioned in 2 seconds.


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## CyberGolem (Feb 13, 2013)

Thanks!


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