# Iron Horse MKIII Trail (2008) Project



## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

*Terrain Useage:* East, TX hard/dry single track (+ downhill jumps) with 50% of the bike useage on paved roads.

Here is the bike I started with:

Frame: 5" TRAVEL dw-link TRAIL FRAME, 1-1/8" ZEROSTACK HEADTUBE, REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER
Fork: ROCK SHOX TORA 289 U-TURN, 130MM TRAVEL
Rear Shock: MANITOU RADIUM R, 7.5"X2"
Front Derailleur: SRAM X.7, 34.9MM CLAMP
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.5
Shifters: SRAM X.5 TRIGGER
Brakes Levers: SHIMANO M485 HYDRAULIC
Brakes: SHIMANO M485 HYDRAULIC W/ 180MM FRONT & 160MM REAR ROTORS
Chain: KMC Z72
Crankset: FSA ALPHA DRIVE, 15-17"=170MM, 19-21"=175MM
Cassette: SRAM PG-850, 11/34T, 8 SPEED
Pedals: CRANK BROS SMARTY CLIPLESS

Bottom Bracket: FSA POWER DRIVE W/ ALLOY CUPS, 73X113MM
Headset: ORBIT Z, ZEROSTACK
Saddle: WTB SILVERADO COMP
Seat Post: EASTON EA30, 30.0MM
Handlebar: EASTON EA30, LOW RISE, 685MM, 31.8MM CLAMP
Grips: N/A
Stem: EASTON EA30, 31.8MM CLAMP
Tires: MAXXIS HIGHROLLER, 2.35" FRONT/2.1" REAR
Wheelset: SHIMANO M495 CENTERLOCK, 32H/SHIMANO M495 CENTERLOCK, 32H/ALEX TD-24, 32H/DT/SWISS CHAMPION 2.0
Weight: 31.6 lbs
Color: KHAKI SATIN

_My Observation: the 2.1 maxxis highroller rear tire frequently lost traction on uphill climbs, was very annoying, so more traction is needed (same height style tire preferred because of limited rear-triangle clerance)_

*New Weight Goal: 25-27lbs with computer, comfortable seat, and wheel reflectors*

*Initial To Do List*
1) Manitou Minute MRD Absolute 2008 model w/ 20mm axle 
2) Front wheel replacement *???*
3) Use Shimano Flight Deck 6500 computer + Tune Pulsar spoke Magnet
4) remove smallest crank cog gear
5) replace water holder bolts w/ plastic ones *where to buy from???*

My Goal is to use the best bang/buck upgrades and share all my results with everyone here with pictures too. What do you all recommend based on my ideas so far?


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## autoduel (Feb 2, 2004)

I'll be building up my wife's MK III this week with budget light parts. I think it will come in at 26lbs.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

autoduel said:


> I'll be building up my wife's MK III this week with budget light parts. I think it will come in at 26lbs.


 AutoDuel, please share with us your parts choices for a 26lb build :thumbsup: . The manitou minute mrd absolute fork (20mm thru axle) arrived today and now I'm trying to find a strong, but lighter front wheel, hub, and tire combo. Any suggestions for a ~215lb rider (should be 180  ). A Tubeless tire and rim seem like a better way to go for saving weight, any thoughts on that as well?


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## tomsmoto (Oct 6, 2007)

you're going to basically have to put all your parts in the trash and replace them with new parts. the mkiii isnt the best weenie bike to build up.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

tomsmoto said:


> you're going to basically have to put all your parts in the trash and replace them with new parts. the mkiii isnt the best weenie bike to build up.


 So far, I'm losing ~1.9lbs just from upgrading to this Manitou Minute MRD Absolute fork (sitting next to me  ). I should be able to shave 0.6lbs from a lighter front wheel / hub / tire combination don't you think so? This would mean a total of 2.5lbs weight lost from the bike so far.

The more I read about tire/wheel/hub combinations the more I get confused. Does anyone have any good recommendations that are reliable and durable, yet still helping the bike lose some weight? The Phil Wood hub came to mind since it's only ~40g heavier than my current shimnao QR hub...I thought it wouldn't matter if the wheel and tire combo is still lighter?


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## Flystagg (Nov 14, 2006)

for light 20mm your best bang for the buck is a hope pro 2. It is 180 grams and only 70 bucks, you would have to spend 3 times that to lose an extra 30 grams with a tune or dt swiss 240 oversize hub.


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## autoduel (Feb 2, 2004)

26lb is an estimate. Most of the parts are to be taken off her 25lb proflex.
Fork is a 4lb older Minute Coil. 260gm women's TI saddle, heavy Ergon grips.RF Evolve 275gm seatpost. She does have Kooka Crank with an action tec TI BB, and I'm upgrading her Deore F&RD with a M950 rear and XT front. She does have a MAXM 120gm carbon bar and 125gm stem already. Brakes are BB7's with XTR integrated shifters. 
I did build a set of 1533gm set of wheels (laserdic lite hubs) to help offset the weight of the frame.
She's running Larsen TT tire rear and Spec. Resolution front on superlight tubes.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Is there any difference in performance, longevity, and reliability when comparing the Hope Pro 2 hub with the Phil Wood (20mm thru-axle front hubs)?

Edit: Since I'm on a budget, I've decided to do this in stages by slowly replacing the parts. So far, here is what I've come up with:

Replacement Part Weights
Fork: Manitou Minute MRD Absolute (130mm travel) ------- 1530g
F. Derailleur: Shimano XTR FD-M970 ------------------------------ 125g
R. Derailleur: SRAM X.0 Short ---------------------------------------- 192g
R. Cassette: Shimano XTR m970 ------------------------------------ 224g
Lighter wheel set (1 pound lighter) -------------------------------- ~1800g
200g savings from lighter front tire -----------------------------------~600g
Seat Post (Easton EC90) ------------------------------------------------ 190g
Handle Bar (MonkeyLite SL) -------------------------------------------- 135g
Stem (extralite UltraStem UL3 90mm) ------------------------------- 81g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Weight Savings
Front Derailler: 55g
Rear Derailler: 98g
Cassette: 71g
New Wheel Set: 454g
Fork: 830g
Tire: 200g
Stem: 91g
HandleBar: 200g
Seat Post: 100g
----------------------
Total loss: 2099g = 4.62 lbs (doesn't include removing h20 bottle bolts + small gear crank cog)
Resulting Bike Weight = 26.98 lbs

What do you all think, are there better bang/buck part choices for losing weight on this tank?


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

dejacky said:


> Stem: 91g


Don't. Not the best part for questionable weenie parts. Get X4.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Curmy said:


> Don't. Not the best part for questionable weenie parts. Get X4.


 Thanks Curmy,
that is exactly what I'm trying to avoid: i.e. finnicky & questionable weight weenie parts. I want the reliable proven stuff! :thumbsup:


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

What cassette size do you have...running a short cage der. may be sketchy with too big of cassette...


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

dejacky said:


> Thanks Curmy,
> that is exactly what I'm trying to avoid: i.e. finnicky & questionable weight weenie parts. I want the reliable proven stuff! :thumbsup:


My rule of thumb is to avoid anything that is not 100% proven bulletproof for stem, seatpost, pedals/crankarms, and front axle. That usually means that any project gets Thomson seatpost (Masterpiece, if available), Thomson stem, Shimano cranks and pedals, and either a bolt-on skewer, or through axle.

After that I consider experimentation.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

amillmtb said:


> What cassette size do you have...running a short cage der. may be sketchy with too big of cassette...


 Cassette: SRAM PG-850, 11/34T, 8 SPEED


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## autoduel (Feb 2, 2004)

Short cage won't work unless you are running 2x9.

I weighed my wife's build and it comes to 26.5 lbs.
Small frame with manitou radium. 6.4lb 
Manitou minute 2.0 (90-120) with inner coil removed 3.8lb
Custom wheels (laserdisc lite/sun 0`xc) 3.38 lb
XT front derailleur
XTR M950 Rear derailleur
XTR M960 Cranks/BB
XTR M950 integrated brake/shifter
XT 11-30 cassette
BB7 Brakes
Ritchey WCS Ti pedals
Real World Cycling Externalizer w/ stock Orbit upper
Weyless 50mm road stem
Maxm flat carbon bar
Race Face Evolve seatpost
Serfas Carma Ti Saddle
Hope steel skewers & seat clamp
Maxxis Larsen TT 2.0 & Specialized Resolution Pro 2.0 tires
Specialized Turbo ultralight tubes
Ergon GP1-S grips

I could have saved another 2 oz if I went with the Kooka Cranks and TI BB, 6 oz if I used foam grips, Another 3 oz if I went with a 140mm fork instead of a 120, and 3oz more with a sub 200 gm saddle. 
So sub 26 is easily doable.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

What Curmy says.

I suggest an XTR FC-M970 crankset... it's a masterpiece.

Eggbeaters 2 Ti (not 4 Ti).

Probably Formula R1 brakes... true, it's going to be raw, but Formula has recent record of being able to nail it at like the first attempt, with Oro and then the One.

Ti bolts wherever possible. Some aluminum bolts (if you can get these).

Duct tape or the like to seal bottle cage holes in the frame. Isn't pretty, but works for me.

Gripshifts. IoDupont PowerCordz cables. Foam grips (not Ritchey WCS, but more like Extralite UltraGrips - twice as light). But do take care of the handlebar - avoid those 3 g plastic end plugs! Go for aluminum plugs (like X-lite), or you may regret it when you crash.

Tune Speedneedle saddle (mates well with Thomson Masterpiece).

German:A rear shock?!


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Psycho, thanks for your recommendations! :thumbsup: A few questions if you don't mind:

How much lighter is the XTR FC-M970 than my current crankset & same question for the pedals.

I've been trying to follow updates on the formula R1's, but I don't see any proper reviews yet. I've tried gripshifts as well, but did not like them for my riding style, so I'm retaining button-style shifters for this build.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

dejacky said:


> Psycho, thanks for your recommendations! :thumbsup: A few questions if you don't mind:
> 
> How much lighter is the XTR FC-M970 than my current crankset & same question for the pedals.


FSA - 721g, FSA powerdrive - 330g. Total ~1050g, XTR - 790g including BB. 260g gain. Cost is ~$340, so not quite $1 per gram which is my rule of thumb cutoff for sensible upgrades.

You can get SLX triple, replace granny with one from XT (aluminum), and with Al bolts is should be around 860g. Cost form chainreactioncycles is ~$105 + ~$15 for the aluminum granny.. Given the state of your project I would use $200 elsewhere to save the 70g difference.

For example on Hope hope hoops with DT 5.1d wheelset from chainreaction cycles - for around $300 you will save probably a pound. And you can keep your existing set for trashing with some burly tires.. Hubs are adoptable to 20mm axle, when you realise that Magura Thor is what you really want.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Ahhhh, XTR crankset. Mine weighed 773 g at 170 mm. FC-M970 is my favorite among cranksets... I also have ~90 g lighter setup on my Cove Handjob: Middleburn RS-7 ISIS 175 mm, Uno ring, and FSA Platinum Pro Ti Megaquad (113 mm spindle, 185 g, 5000 km including lots of mud and still okay) , and I like XTR better.

My Eggbeaters 2 Ti weigh 223 g (pair). CB Smarty pedals claimed weight is 282g, not bad... but I remember reading somewhere that they are not serviceable. If that's true, just ride them to their doom. )


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Ahhhh, XTR crankset. Mine weighed 773 g at 170 mm. FC-M970 is my favorite among cranksets...


SLX, both triple and double became my favorites this year on the price/performance scale. I still got a new XTR for a weenie project, but I do hate XTR's crank attachment. SLX style is so much easier. Double is the best value for an AM 22-36 crankset.



J. Random Psycho said:


> My Eggbeaters 2 Ti weigh 223 g (pair). CB Smarty pedals claimed weight is 282g, not bad... but I remember reading somewhere that they are not serviceable. If that's true, just ride them to their doom. )


Pedals are often a personal preference thing. Smarty is reported to be doomed from the start. Among Crank brothers I like Acid 2.

I want to try this Look Quartz things. 250g per pair for $82 and Look has good reputation. I have heard though they are picky about shoe soles.


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## Vertr (Oct 10, 2006)

Do you have pictures of your bike? I'd like to see.


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## chanp (Nov 26, 2008)

Hey man, the replacement for water bottle cage bolts are Home Depot nylon fasteners, in the electrical section. They come in all sizes, but I think metric .31 is close.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks chanp, will pick some of those up this week. Btw, how would you guys compared the FSA PowerDrive to the Shimano XTR m970 cranksets in terms of performance? (is one more flexy or stronger, or is it not noticeable?)

btw, I should have some wheel and installed-front fork pics tomorrow!


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

XTR cranks are super stiff and the best chainring shifting performance of anything out there. There's some racers using them in DH applications so they aren't some dainty piece.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

alright, looks like i'll go with the xtr then, thanks! It saves me almost half a pound as well


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## Thomas (Feb 19, 2004)

my 2008 Minute MRD Absolute 130mm with 20mm axle weighs 1632,5gram with
uncut steerer tube and including the axle.


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## IAmtnbikr (May 17, 2008)

Marta SL's are another brake option. I got mine used for a good deal on eBay. Maxxis Maxxlite's are a fast-rolling hardpack tire and they're very light. Make sure to use Flyweight tubes with them. There are many other lighter seatposts than what you mentioned trying too.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Hmmmm, I don't recommend Flyweight tubes (just like any tubes in the 100g class) unless you're very smooth all the time and there is very little sharp-edged obstacles on your trails. Those tubes are as easy to puncture as condoms, especially when run with light tires and under typical off-road pressures.

Consider tubeless wheels, with I9 hubs and spokes and ZTR Arch rims..


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

my new front wheel:

Mavic 819 Disc UST rim _(tubeless)_
Stainless Steel spokes
Alloy nipples
Hope Pro II hub (20mm thru-axle)
Weight = <900g










Riding terrain is still forest in East, Texas consisting primarily of aggressive single track with jumps and a few down-hill sections. Bike will also be ridden ~4 miles on pavement everyday fwiw. A kevlar based UST tire at 700g or less is what I'm looking for.

*Update 2*

As the mechanic was mounting the old Maxxis highroller tubed tire on the new Mavic 819 UST rim he asked if I wanted to go tubeless and I said sure why not...big mistake on my part. The Stans glue stuff that was injected into the tire to properly seal it added very noticeable weight and actually caused greater rolling resistance because of the extra weight and tire being more off balance. :nono: I'll definitely get a proper UST tire when this one wears thin, lesson learned.

Progress Pics:

























So far, the steering response of the bike with the new wheel and fork is AWESOME. The front end feels more connected to the bike (didn't think it was possible) and overall the bike feels more like one uniform object that responds more precisely to my rider inputs. All in all, everything is more stable and I'm able to ride faster because of the extra control.

*Next Weight Weenie Stage* _ I need some recommendations from you experienced bikers please _

100g lighter seat post in 30.0mm clamp size _(currently: *290g*)_
100g lighter rear derailleur _(currently: *290g*)_
~50g lighter front derailleur _(currently: *180g*)_
lighter 11/34T, 8 SPEED Cassette _(currently: *295g*)_
Easton Monkeylite handlebars = ~165g savings from the current Easton EA30.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

As promised here are some weights!


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

That's correct WW fork choice... 

Seatpost: hmmmm, odd size. No Thomson Masterpiece this size.
Rear derailer: SRAM x.0, ~200 g, Shimano XTR Shadow, ~185 g
Handlebar: Eastom EC90 CNT 1" riser, 635 mm wide, 150 g

Good luck finding a light 8-speed cassette, especially with that range...

Crankset: XTR M970
Saddle: Tune Speedneedle, ~100 g leather, ~90 g alcantara
Front wheel: Mavic Crossmax ST 20
Rear rotor: Hope Mono Mini 160 mm floating disc, 89 g

Brakes: Formula R1... it they turn out to be that good.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

dejacky said:


> 100g lighter seat post in 30.0mm clamp size _(currently: *290g*)_
> 100g lighter rear derailleur _(currently: *290g*)_
> ~50g lighter front derailleur _(currently: *180g*)_
> lighter 11/34T, 8 SPEED Cassette _(currently: *295g*)_
> Easton Monkeylite handlebars = ~165g savings from the current Easton EA30.


Why dont you just go 9 speed instead of the little upgrades like seat post clamps and bars. Your brakes are way over 1000g for the pair. Brakes and drivetrain are great places to loose weight...If I were you I would change to a 9 speed and get some mid level, but light brakes. Formula makes great light brakes, and they dont break the bank, like the k18 and k24. In a previous post you said this:

F. Derailleur: Shimano XTR FD-M970 ------------------------------ 125g
R. Derailleur: SRAM X.0 Short ---------------------------------------- 192g
R. Cassette: Shimano XTR m970 ------------------------------------ 224g
Seat Post (Easton EC90) ------------------------------------------------ 190g
Handle Bar (MonkeyLite SL) -------------------------------------------- 135g
Stem (extralite UltraStem UL3 90mm) ------------------------------- 81g

This is a great parts spec, but by the time that you buy all of these, you could almost have another bike that comes stock at like 25 lbs. These are all very expensive parts:

F. Derailleur: Shimano XTR FD-M970 ------------------------------ $ 160
R. Derailleur: SRAM X.0 Long ------------------------------------------$ 230
R. Cassette: Shimano XTR m970 ------------------------------------ $ 280
Seat Post (Easton EC90) ------------------------------------------------$ 180
Handle Bar (MonkeyLite SL) --------------------------------------------$ 130
Stem (extralite UltraStem UL3 90mm) -------------------------------$ 203
Total -------------------------------------------------------------------------------$ 1183

For you Iron Horse, _IF_ I were you I would go 9 speed with a nice set up like this:

FD: Shimano XT
RD: Sram X.0
Cassette: Sram PG-980
Shifters: Sram X-9
Chain: Sram PC-991 Hollowpin

A set up like the one that I mensioned above is nice and light, but itnt too expensive. They are nice parts that can be bought over time and are going to last for years to come.

But...
Salsa Lip Lock's are light and clamp very nicely and are only about 34 gr

http://salsacycles.com/skewers.html

Extralite Clamp 11g


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

amillmtb said:


> Why dont you just go 9 speed instead of the little upgrades like seat post clamps and bars. Your brakes are way over 1000g for the pair. Brakes and drivetrain are great places to loose weight...


 Amillmtb, according to the the following website, my Shimano M485 brakes only weigh 608 grams for the pair (Specs tab):

http://www.rei.com/product/769232
_if your source of the brake weight is different, I'll take them off on Christmas and weigh them with pics for everyone to confirm actual weight._

Thank you for your suggestions, I'll definitely keep them in mind. I'm not paying full retail prices for the parts and am open to used parts as well, so this makes the upgrades more financially feasible. Who knows I may go 9 speed, I'm just weighing my options at this point. Because of everyone's advice, I've decided not to "upgrade" the stem to the extralite UltraStem UL3 90mm...so, I'm keeping my easton stem, it's not heavy and works fantastic. The reason for upgrading the front derailleur is because the one currently on my bike is the wrong kind in terms of fitment, so might as well ensure the replacement derailleur is lighter.

J. Random Psycho I appreciate insight as well. It seems the Easton EC90 seatpost is weak according to these reviews  :

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=461412
http://www.signatureride.com/PREastonEC90SeatPost.html

Nevertheless, all of you inputting advice makes any success of this project possible! :thumbsup:

More reason for me to make informed weight-weenie upgrades: I'm planning to participate in my first mtb race near Austin, Texas in early January 09. :ihih:


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

dejacky, there is most certainly nothing wrong with being a bit of a weight weenie, unless one really goes all out and hangs the likes of Extralite and FRM off his bike. 

You riding style, terrain and the frequency and severity of pilot errors dictate the border between "rightfully light" and "stupid light".

For instance, I was riding for a year with Ritchey WCS foam grips, 35 g per pair with plastic end plugs. I was also becoming gradually more aggressive in my riding. And one of my recent crashes unveiled the inadequacy of such grips and especially end plugs. The handlebar struck a rock with one of its tips. The rock went through plastic end plug and the foam like a hot knife through butter, licking plastic away, tearing foam apart and chopping a sizable splinter off carbon (that's Easton EC90 CNT). Lesson learned: I went to DMR LOCDD grips and X-lite aluminum end plugs. That's 100 g heavier than previous grip setup, but it has already proven itself in a downhill crash.

As far as stems are concerned, it's Thomson Elite X4 all the way.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

dejacky said:


> Amillmtb, according to the the following website, my Shimano M485 brakes only weigh 608 grams for the pair (Specs tab):
> 
> https://www.rei.com/product/769232
> _if your source of the brake weight is different, I'll take them off on Christmas and weigh them with pics for everyone to confirm actual weight._




Magura Marta SL: 324 a piece x 2 = 648g
Formula Oro Puro: 307 a piece x 2 = 614g
Avid Juicy Ultimate: 344 a piece x 2 = 688g
Formula R1: 270 a piece x 2 = 540g (from competitive cycleist's web site)
Hope Mono Mini Pro: 334 a piece x 2 =368
Hope Mono Mini: 364 a piece x 2 = 728

See what I'm getting at? There is no way a lower than Deore level brake is lighter than top end offerings by all the lightest brands. I think REI messed up. The best way to know the weight is to weigh them yourself.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

amillmtb said:


> See what I'm getting at? There is no way a lower than Deore level brake is lighter than top end offerings by all the lightest brands. I think REI messed up. The best way to know the weight is to weigh them yourself.


REI did not mess up it seems: that weight does not include rotors, just like in the picture.

So add about 220g.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Curmy said:


> REI did not mess up it seems: that weight does not include rotors, just like in the picture.
> 
> So add about 220g.


CL rotors are even heavier than that, the 160mm Deore rotor is 149gms and the 180mm rotor is 175gms.


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## WindWithMe (Apr 17, 2008)

Curmy said:


> REI did not mess up it seems: that weight does not include rotors, just like in the picture.
> 
> So add about 220g.


I just pulled mine off,and the 160mm weigh 156 grams.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

WindWithMe said:


> I just pulled mine off,and the 160mm weigh 156 grams.


You should be banned from the Weenies forum if your rotors are above 100g for 160mm.


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## WindWithMe (Apr 17, 2008)

Curmy said:


> You should be banned from the Weenies forum if your rotors are above 100g for 160mm.


 Don't worry I've caught the WW bug and have a pair of Alligator Wind-Cutters on the way.


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

WindWithMe said:


> I just pulled mine off,and the 160mm weigh 156 grams.


Judging by your picture of your bike in your sig, you have the 6 bolt pattern. Centerlock is heavier due to the lockring.


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## dinoadventures (May 2, 2008)

dejacky said:


> As the mechanic was mounting the old Maxxis highroller tubed tire on the new Mavic 819 UST rim he asked if I wanted to go tubeless and I said sure why not...big mistake on my part. The Stans glue stuff that was injected into the tire to properly seal it added very noticeable weight and actually caused greater rolling resistance because of the extra weight and tire being more off balance. :nono: I'll definitely get a proper UST tire when this one wears thin, lesson learned.


I hope that lesson was to find a new mechanic or learn to do your own wrenching because it sounds like he put WAY too much sealant in the tire. If this was in the Dallas area, I could probably guess who did it.

Your tire should have at most two scoops of sealant inside. That isn't an amount that would imbalance the tire. You shouldn't hear it sloshing around or anything. There's some folks who wrench in the DFW area who have a propensity for dumping a full bottle of sealant into the tires. If this is the case, go have a word with their supervisor.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Dino,
thanks for the info. The mechanic did not do anything wrong as far as I could tell and I'm happy with the bike shop, so there is nothing sloshing around in the tire. It just feels like there is greater rolling resistance and the tire has less "bounce" in it compared to before with the inner tube. The mechanic only added more stans sealant after the first injection wasn't enough (tire began to flatten out near the end of my time in the store), so it wasn't like he dumped in as much as possible, just enough to seal it.
Other stans sealant users I questioned have been confirming needing to put at least twice the recommended amount of stans sealant in their tubeless conversions in most cases for a good seal. I will be getting a checkup on the entire wheel to make sure it's not a setting that needs adjustment, so take my observation with a grain of salt at this point  . I'll edit this post with brake weights (without rotors) as well.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

+1 for wrenching on your bikes all by yourself. Well, perhaps short of welding on frames and CNCing shock reducers...

This gives the sense of independence and security. You break it, you fix it.


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## clark (Mar 26, 2006)

how is the fork working out? I saw a picture of one on sale, wondered and then reread your post and knew what the words meant. I looks like it rocks. Any updates?


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

clark said:


> how is the fork working out? I saw a picture of one on sale, wondered and then reread your post and knew what the words meant. I looks like it rocks. Any updates?


 So far, I like the fork, but I also haven't tinkered with all the settings. What they say about the platform adjuster settings above 3rd click feeling "locked out" is true. I've only had one ride and I could feel the weight loss from the fork, it was very stiff and rigid, I felt 0 flex, and it was smooth on the trail in terms of absorbing bumps in a controlled manner.

I'm having to take a hiatus from biking / wrenching and pulled out of this January 3rd race because of some lower back pain...the setbacks of "getting back in shape" hehe...

Here is another user-review and thread dedicated to the fork:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=465685&page=2


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

J. Random Psycho said:


> Well, perhaps short of welding on frames and CNCing shock reducers...


Been there, done that.


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## TR (Jan 12, 2004)

dejacky said:


> Dino,
> thanks for the info. The mechanic did not do anything wrong as far as I could tell and I'm happy with the bike shop, so there is nothing sloshing around in the tire. It just feels like there is greater rolling resistance and the tire has less "bounce" in it compared to before with the inner tube. The mechanic only added more stans sealant after the first injection wasn't enough (tire began to flatten out near the end of my time in the store), so it wasn't like he dumped in as much as possible, just enough to seal it.
> Other stans sealant users I questioned have been confirming needing to put at least twice the recommended amount of stans sealant in their tubeless conversions in most cases for a good seal. I will be getting a checkup on the entire wheel to make sure it's not a setting that needs adjustment, so take my observation with a grain of salt at this point  . I'll edit this post with brake weights (without rotors) as well.


Interesting comment about the amount of sealant you and others seem to need.
I use only 2 scoops per 29er tyre with no problems at all.


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## dejacky (Jun 27, 2006)

Upgrade season is approaching and what better way to celebrate by challenging this WW project with a Shimano Alfine internally geared rear-hub based wheel. I realize this will make the bike heavier, but the weight limit goal of 27lbs or less is still in effect...and the saga continues .


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