# LED upgrades to a Dualcross



## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

I've got a Cygolite Dualcross that I like for alot of reasons (long run times and flashing modes among them), unfortunately the shape and strength of the beam is not one of them. Are there any easy upgrades to the emitters or optics that I can make? I was thinking about going to P4s or Cree, with some optics that would provide a bit more spill.

Is there any reason I can't do something like http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162784


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## Narajjang (Dec 21, 2006)

If you can change the emitters to P4 or Cree, the brightness will be much increased.
Most important problem is opening case.

I have been modified other cygolite LED model(Hi-Flux 100).
It was assembled with screw and adhesive.
Removing adhesive was very difficult.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Narajjang said:


> If you can change the emitters to P4 or Cree, the brightness will be much increased.
> Most important problem is opening case.


I just took it apart -- its going to be a piece of cake. Someone is selling Dualcross 200's on ebay for $109 right now - prime candidates for upgrades.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

SecondSkin said:


> I just took it apart -- its going to be a piece of cake. Someone is selling Dualcross 200's on ebay for $109 right now - prime candidates for upgrades.


I'll be interested in your little project, SecondSkin. Please keep us posted.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Well, my Cree Q5 stars came in yesterday, so I was able to upgrade the dualcross. Here's how it went down. First, I ordered two Cree XR-E Q5 stars from dealextreme, for $10 each, shipping included. Delivery from hongkong took 2 weeks. In the meantime I brushed up on led upgrades. I found the following two threads very useful:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=355221

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=350467

I'll paste the most important bits of the two threads here:

1) The standard Dualcross (mine is a dc 200) has normal led stars, apparently luxeon 5w at about 80 lumens each
2) The stars are screwed and pasted to the heatsink, not epoxied
3) The wiring is soldered, of course



















My procedure was straight out of the first link:

1) Use flux from a pen on the Cree Q5 contacts and let completely dry, otherwise solder will not adhere to the contacts. (this is very important)

2) Easier to cut old wires connecting the luxeon stars as solder joints are covered with some sort of epoxy. There is plenty of wire inside the casing to extend the leads. Then just unscrew the 2 screws holding the Luxeon star to the heatsink. (I actually desoldered the leads, and had no trouble doing it)

3) Put a drop of solder on Cree contacts before attaching the led stars to the silver heat sink. (another very important step)

3.5) Add a drop of arctic alumina (or arctic silver) to the backside of the led star

4) Attach stars to heat sink via the 2 screws and then feed connecting wires through heat sink.

5) Add a drop of solder to leads

6) Solder + and - wires by joining both drops of solder. (very easily done, I might add)

7) Clean inner surface of main lenses and Cree lens

The total cost was $20, the investment was well worth it (as you will see). Clearly, the dualcross is putting out ALOT more light, but I think the output can still be improved with better optics. I'm not impressed with the way the standard optics fit the crees and it leaves some artifacts that are not readily apparent in the beam shots.

Anyway, the total cost of the project was around $160, $140 for the dualcross 200 (including shipping) and the $20 upgrade. I'm very happy with the light, because I think the dc has some of the more effective modes in its controller, including 4 levels of light and 5 flashing modes. Battery life is terrific also, at over 4 hours on high (and I have tested it). Its nice to know you can do a 2 hour ride, forget to charge your battery and then do another 2+ hour ride (and throttle the light back if you need to do trailside repairs).

On to the beam shots. All photos are under equal lighting conditions, though there was more moonlight out in the pre-upgrade shots. My camera is limited to 1 second exposures, so I had to bump the photos up (equally) to equate to what I'm seeing. The swingset is 17 meters from the light source. First, the standard Dualcross 200 on high.










Now the Dualcross Q5 on high.










How's that for a $20 upgrade???


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## Narajjang (Dec 21, 2006)

Nice work!
Congratulations~~


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I've tackled this DualCross-Q5 upgrade project, and those screenshots tell it all. Very impressive $20.00 upgrade (and simple too, took me about 40 minutes). Now, my DC makes a worthy bar-mount compliment to my achesalot, triple-Seoul headlamp.

SecondSkin, you didn't use Arctic Alumina "Adhesive" did you? That stuff is permanent and may hinder further lumen-enhancing upgrades. I used Arctic Silver Ceramique compound for easy removal of star down the road....I can see an R4 (R5?) upgrade by next summer.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Hawseman said:


> SecondSkin, you didn't use Arctic Alumina "Adhesive" did you?


No, that was just fast typing on my part (and not thinking about it while I did it). It's arctic silver.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Got to ride my "new" light last night and it was awesome, better than I expected even. Also had some other riders comment "nice lights!" -- not bad for a $160 set of cygolites.

So I'll cap this thread with a reminder that Dualcross 200's are available on ebay now for $109 new, with $10 shipping and a $20 cree upgrade you'd have a pretty awesome light (around 400 lumens) for $140 total. A great deal for someone just getting into night riding anyway.


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

Nice work. As mentioned in some other posts, the SSC P4 are a better option for Luxeon replacement since they can make better use the same optics. USVOH would be the ideal bin but Kaidomain has the USXOH so cheap it's hard to ignore.


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## FrozenK (Mar 17, 2005)

Would something like this be doable for a Blackburn X6?


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Homebrew said:


> Nice work. As mentioned in some other posts, the SSC P4 are a better option for Luxeon replacement since they can make better use the same optics. USVOH would be the ideal bin but Kaidomain has the USXOH so cheap it's hard to ignore.


It's true, there are focus anomolies from using the Cree's, but it's not distracting when so much light is produced. The increased side spill more than outways the slight halo effect. The hot spot is not a problem because you can raise the aim of the bar light slightly to give you further throw, while the side spill illuminates your direct path.

I'm more that satisfied with the upgrade. I think SecondSkin's beamshots show it well in the real world....no noticeable artifacts.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

SecondSkin,

Could you post a similar beamshot of your modified Q5 DC in the lowest setting? My assumption is that even on low the modded DC has much more light than the high setting with the original stock parts (Lumileds).

If that's the case, this mod actually gives more light *and doubles* the run time. All for 20 bucks.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Hawseman said:


> SecondSkin,
> 
> Could you post a similar beamshot of your modified Q5 DC in the lowest setting? My assumption is that even on low the modded DC has much more light than the high setting with the original stock parts (Lumileds).
> 
> If that's the case, this mod actually gives more light *and doubles* the run time. All for 20 bucks.


I've got beam shots on medium, which are clearly more than the old high setting. I'll try to take some low beam pics tonight. I'm almost positive they'll be equal to or better than the old high setting.



> I'm more that satisfied with the upgrade. I think SecondSkin's beamshots show it well in the real world....no noticeable artifacts.


 That's right on...though the arifacts are there...you have to look for them, which is not a good habit to be in during a ride.



FrozenK said:


> Would something like this be doable for a Blackburn
> X6?


 Its almost certainly doable on an X6, whether it would be easy or not I can't say. It's a piece of cake on the dualcross.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Much appreciated, SS....I should've taken my own beamshot pics so I wouldn't have to bother you. 

Four night rides with the modded DualCross and I'm still in awe. I don't like the linear-type stepping used the intensity modes of this unit. Medium-low and medium-high are pretty much useless settings IMHO. I may excersize my battery to see how the runtimes look with these Cree's. Something I should've done when the head was stock - for comparison reasons. I've gotten 4 solid hours (2 rides) with the DC mostly in low, but sometimes in high. I didn't push it any further because I'm spoiled, and I don't want to lose it while I'm riding.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

More beams shots, as requested:

Dualcross Q5 on high, as before










Dualcross Q5 on Med-high (barely dimmer than high with 5+hrs runtime!)










Dualcross Q5 on Low










Original Dualcross on high (before upgrade)










No Contest!


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I've been looking at those bottom two pics closely (thanks again, SS). It appears that the throw is about the same, but there is much more spill on the Q5 mod pic. Bottom spill is more evident in the pics shown, being in an open area.

As a bar light, the DualCross is much better with the Cree's IMHO. One thing I've noticed while riding technical uphill (without headlight and DC barlight on low), is that I don't lose sight of the trail like I used to while steering evasively. The only time I've run the stock DC light on low was when the bike was on pavement, which is very rarely. With the stock setup, I was tempted to move the DC to my helmet because I felt it was a bit too spotty for my bars.

This may be one case where the Cree being used with Lumiled optics is a benefit. I'd be interested to see a Seoul P4 upgrade...I'm thinking it would still be too much spot for a handlebar light.

My non-scientific conclusion: equal throw, more spill, double runtime = 30minute + $20 = huge valued upgrade.

This is my personal summary...all comments welcome.


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## TheDude (Feb 18, 2004)

Quick question, any reason why you are using AS 5 paste? Can you get away with the cheaper stuff from bestbuy or the stuff included with CPU install kits?


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

That stuff is fine....

Arctic Silver is just the "Cadillac" of thermal pastes. Maybe at the most, a 5 degree (C) difference.....no biggie. I just use a very thin coat on the back of the star. I also put a smidge on the heatsink, wiped it around with a plastic bag over my finger, cleaned off the excess with a lint-free cloth (heatsink side only), then installed my emitter. The heatsink bit is for "filling" the nooks and crannies of the heatsink.

Ideally, you want metal-to-metal contact for greatest heat transfer....all thermal paste should do is eliminate those tiny air pockets (insulators of heat) by providing a heat path. This is why most thermal pastes are made with metal or ceramic particles. They are tiny particles to fill those microscopic hills and valleys found on all surfaces. Too much paste is actually worse than none at all.

Sorry, too much info....tis the geek in me.


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## TheDude (Feb 18, 2004)

Thanks. I found some AS 5 at good ole' Radio Shack. I did the upgrade on my DC 300's last night. I've done plenty of wire soldering in the past but holy moly those Cree contacts are tough to prep. I hope mine hold. At least I will know what's wrong if they happen to die on me.

Much much brighter.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

TheDude said:


> Thanks. I found some AS 5 at good ole' Radio Shack. I did the upgrade on my DC 300's last night. I've done plenty of wire soldering in the past but holy moly those Cree contacts are tough to prep. I hope mine hold. At least I will know what's wrong if they happen to die on me.
> 
> Much much brighter.


They're a pain....SecondSkin has the easiest method in the above post.


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## utabintarbo (Jun 29, 2007)

How did you get the housing apart? Any clues would be most helpful.


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## mofoki (Feb 1, 2005)

While you had the housing opened up did you happen to notice the current limiting circuit? Just currious. Any pics of that?


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## G-Cracker (Feb 8, 2006)

Wow... great thread! I'm probably going to get the DualCross Pro soon and will save this thread in case I want to add a bit more light. Seems very straight forward, even for someone with limited electrical knowledge.

Do you know if this upgrade would work on the Pro? I'm only asking in case the Pro version already uses a brighter LED.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

utabintarbo said:


> How did you get the housing apart? Any clues would be most helpful.


Its just 4 little screws, I was able to remove them with a (small) standard screwdriver, but a set of eyeglass screwdrivers was helpful also.



> While you had the housing opened up did you happen to notice the current limiting circuit? Just currious. Any pics of that?


Sorry, I didn't. I may take it apart again soon though and will take pics then.



> I've done plenty of wire soldering in the past but holy moly those Cree contacts are tough to prep.


Prepping the contacts is probably the key step. I fought with that for a while before I found the two threads listed in the first post (I figured I was skilled enough to not need directions :madman: ). Anyway make sure you flux the contacts real good (move the flux around with the soldering iron) and it should be easy.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

G-Cracker said:


> Wow... great thread! I'm probably going to get the DualCross Pro soon and will save this thread in case I want to add a bit more light. Seems very straight forward, even for someone with limited electrical knowledge.
> 
> Do you know if this upgrade would work on the Pro? I'm only asking in case the Pro version already uses a brighter LED.


The Pro wouldn't be worth upgrading at this time. It uses a newer, brighter LED already. A year from now may present some upgrade opportunities....


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## G-Cracker (Feb 8, 2006)

Great... thanks for the info.


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## SecondSkin (Oct 17, 2005)

Hawseman said:


> The Pro wouldn't be worth upgrading at this time. It uses a newer, brighter LED already. A year from now may present some upgrade opportunities....


Yeah, probably not worth it right now, but I bet its just as easy to do. With the R2 bin leds out right now (275 lumens @1A) it would probably be well worth it when the R3-R4s come out, probably by spring. I'm expecting to have 600 lumens out of this baby next summer!


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

SecondSkin said:


> Yeah, probably not worth it right now, but I bet its just as easy to do. With the R2 bin leds out right now (275 lumens @1A) it would probably be well worth it when the R3-R4s come out, probably by spring. I'm expecting to have 600 lumens out of this baby next summer!


I may be building a battery for my DC before the next upgrade....which will probably be the R4 or the W-bin SSC P4, which ever arrives first. Should hit 600 with either of those future bins....buwahahaha. I'll be sure to take beam shots next time.


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

Last tuesday i went night riding with my friends and they all have HID lights. Topeak, Light & Motion and Niterider brands. I was the only one who has an LED light but i had the brightest light. I noticed that HID beams are more of a spread beam while my DualCross is more focused but due to my Cree upgrade the beam has more spread and bright white light. I enjoyed the ride. 


Thanks guys for the inputs i am satisfied with my dualcross LED. 




Merry Christmas to all!


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## ertman (Aug 24, 2007)

SecondSkin said:


> Well, my Cree Q5 stars came in yesterday, so I was able to upgrade the dualcross.


Did your stock DualCross 200 have the "LED Upgrade" from the factory?

I just picked up a DualCross 200 from Performance Bike, and inside the package there was a small note that says:

LED UPGRADE 
The High-Brightness LED(s)
on this headlight have been
upgraded to 2nd Generation
LED(s), increasing the
brightness by 50%

It's pretty darn bright in stock form, so I'd hate to go and do an "upgrade" only to end up with the same light output.

An update:

I pulled my Dual Cross 200 apart, and it is using SEOUL ZLED-N LEDs, and a lot more thermal compound than in SecondSkin's pictures.










I think I'll pass on the upgrade for now - maybe next year when LEDs double in brightness again!


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## super-fast (Sep 28, 2006)

Is the housing made from plastic or metal? How is the heat transfer to the outside world? When it is possible to keep the leds cool enough we could fit in to MR11 triple lenses, but that's not going to work when the housing is completely from plastic (due to heat).


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

super-fast said:


> Is the housing made from plastic or metal? How is the heat transfer to the outside world? When it is possible to keep the leds cool enough we could fit in to MR11 triple lenses, but that's not going to work when the housing is completely from plastic (due to heat).


The housing of the dualcross is made from plastic, but inside have a heatsink, how you can see on the photos. To the second question, I too ask to me...triple led with only a inside heatsink....hummmmm :eekster: :eekster:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

How long have you been using your upgraded dualcross lights? Mine i've used it for only for more than 3 months and still no problems. Knock on wood hopefully it will last long.  

has anybody encountered problems with the upgrade to cree? 
Do you also get hot spots when you upgraded to cree Q5's?


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## harlequinn (Feb 19, 2008)

*My upgrade*

Hi,

I just completed a Cree Q5 wc bin upgrade to my dualcross. Wow. An amazing light output difference.

It was very fiddly. The soldering space is very cramped. I almost hit the soldering iron tip on the led lens (soooo close).

I have hotspots also in mine. I think this is simply from the massively increased light output with this particular optic. It was made for a luxeon of a particular beam spread and light intensity and by switching to the cree it changes everything.

I am going to pull mine back apart shortly to check the integrity of the solder joints. I don't solder often and want to make sure they are rock solid - lest one breaks off and kills the electrics.

I tinned the wires before putting them through the heatsink (made it easier for me).

The heatsink design is not the best. It is enclosed in a tight fitting thick plastic body - reducing heat dissipation. I think an aluminium body would be better.

Good luck modders - well worth it.


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## ccaddy (Jun 14, 2006)

I just got an email back from Cygo Lite and they said they can perform the 
LED upgrade for $39.99 plus the shipping .
Something to consider if you are squeemish about doing it yourself .

Something to consider .:thumbsup:


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

Has anybody tried putting SSC P7 on a dualcross as an upgrade? Is it possibl?


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## Deme Moore (Jun 15, 2007)

Prolly not. The P7 draws AMPS baby, you'd be driving it at a low enough wattage with the Dualcross driver that it'd be extremely dim in comparison to what it's capable of.


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

Oh thank you for the reply. I didnt know that it draws amps. Ok maybe R2's are the next upgrade for it.

Thanks again.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I am definitely going to attempt this upgrade but am still not sure on Q5s or SSC P4s. I don't mind spending a couple of bucks more for the Q5s but want the best combination of lumens and beam pattern. Some have suggested the SSCs would be better due to the DC optics, but many state the Q5s are brighter and everyone who has done the upgrade using Q5s seem very satisfied. Anyone got beamshots to compare a Q5 upgrade to a SSC P4 upgrade?
Thanks a ton in advance, this forum and this post specifically have inspired me.


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## le_buzz (Sep 27, 2006)

Just curious which version of the DualCross do you have that you feel the need
to upgrade ? Are the folks here still feeling the need to upgrade the Dual Cross Pro
with the newer, stronger LEDs ? I'm thinking of getting this but an wondering if it's strong enough for general trail riding(with lots of bumps and shadows)


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I have the older model dual cross 200 li-ion. I feel the need due to the beam shots shown earlier in the thread. $20 upgrade, much brighter, same or longer run time.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Andy13 said:


> I have the older model dual cross 200 li-ion. I feel the need due to the beam shots shown earlier in the thread. $20 upgrade, much brighter, same or longer run time.


If its not winter where you are now, I would wait a few months for higher bin R4 Crees or V bin SSCs. 
Significantly brighter than the current stuff.


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## BBW (Feb 25, 2004)

Could someone explain to me why you have those horrible spots of light all over the place???? Just curious since what I run has no spots


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Cree and SSC leds have quite different beam patterns. If you don't match optics you'll get rings. Some of the pics show this (dark spot around slide). Need beamshots onto a white wall (sheets work well) before and after upgrade to judge.


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## BBW (Feb 25, 2004)

znomit said:


> Cree and SSC leds have quite different beam patterns. If you don't match optics you'll get rings. Some of the pics show this (dark spot around slide). Need beamshots onto a white wall (sheets work well) before and after upgrade to judge.


Ahhhhhhhhhh so you can't just put any optics in there:thumbsup:


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

BBW said:


> Ahhhhhhhhhh so you can't just put any optics in there:thumbsup:


Yeah you can, its just that the right ones will be better :thumbsup: 
Just because an optic fits on doesn't mean its designed for it!


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## kikoy (Aug 30, 2007)

What would be the best optics for CREE bulbs that can fit the dualcross?
I'm currently using Q5's on my dualcross 300 and i want to change my optics that best suits the Q's so that it will have more light on the trails.

Please give me advice on what to do.


Thank you


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

I did this upgrade w/ the SSC P4s and it really improved light output. I am now considering an R2 upgrade to my wife's DualCross. I am somewhat confused on bin tints (WH, WG, etc). Will the R2s produce significantly more heat than the P4s?
TIA


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Andy13 said:


> I did this upgrade w/ the SSC P4s and it really improved light output. I am now considering an R2 upgrade to my wife's DualCross. I am somewhat confused on bin tints (WH, WG, etc). Will the R2s produce significantly more heat than the P4s?
> TIA


Hi, WH tint, are similar to seoul P4, WG tint, is more similar to halogen bulbs. The R2 it is heat the same of the P4, no more.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Kingdomseeder (Jun 10, 2006)

Okay, is anybody still considering the R2's? has anybody done the mod yet or something else? I have the Daulcross Pro and would love to have more light!! The mod looks pretty easy. I took my light apart tonight and now am curious. Thanks


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Kingdomseeder said:


> Okay, is anybody still considering the R2's? has anybody done the mod yet or something else? I have the Daulcross Pro and would love to have more light!! The mod looks pretty easy. I took my light apart tonight and now am curious. Thanks


Hi, better fit you a MC-E led, somebody had it in your cygolite Tridenx and this work very well.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I just ordered some XP-G R5's to drop into my DualCross li-ion non-Pro (from the XP-E Q5 mod of 2 years ago). As much as I lke the quad-die LED's, this light is not designed with adequate heat dissipation. I would mod it for cooling, but it's been a solid, foul-weather warrior for about 4 years now.

I'm hoping the XP-G will provide a little better beam with the stock optics, be a tad warmer (doubtful - most likely a greenish tint), and give a discernable output boost. I don't expect the "wow" factor of the Q5 upgrade from Luxeon of two years ago....but it's time for a facelift mod. The original battery is well below an hour for high operation - I'm kissing it goodbye - going custom 6.6Ah. I'll try to post pics with my POS camera for those that give a flippin' daaam. :thumbsup:


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

The MC-E upgrade for these would be a 2S2P config that would run each die at half the normal drive current which is low heat. So I'm sure your case would be fine. Two M-bin MC-E would be still be ~800 lumens even at the low drive current. StevelKnivel's example on a Tridenx is here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=488066

That said, the XP-G will be even more efficient than the MC-E with longer run times but at lower total output. It's still plenty of light and with roughly 40% more lumens the the Q5 , the XP-G upgrade will definitely be a big jump up from what you have now. XP-G will be around 600 lumens where as the Q5 is closer to 400 lumens.


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Homebrew said:


> The MC-E upgrade for these would be a 2S2P config that would run each die at half the normal drive current which is low heat. So I'm sure your case would be fine. Two M-bin MC-E would be still be ~800 lumens even at the low drive current. StevelKnivel's example on a Tridenx is here:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=488066
> 
> That said, the XP-G will be even more efficient than the MC-E with longer run times but at lower total output. It's still plenty of light and with roughly 40% more lumens the the Q5 , the XP-G upgrade will definitely be a big jump up from what you have now. XP-G will be around 600 lumens where as the Q5 is closer to 400 lumens.


Thanks, Homebrew.

Agreed, a dual 2S2P setup in the D/C probably wouldn't be a heat issue at half current per LED. I have read above post. I guess I'm more curious of the stock optics - they looked nasty with the MC-E....but SteveKnivel reflector modification made for a nice beam.

The XP-G seem to have more spill than the XP-E's. That may make this a more direct "drop-in" replacement. This is the fun stuff.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Where are you getting your XP-Gs for the dualcross mod? Also, any issues w/ upgrading the battery? Do you just use the connector on the old battery?
TIA


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

I've bought the XP-G from LEDSupply. The optics aren't ideal, although it has quite similar beam anomolies as the Cree's I'd replaced. I can live with it. Most definitely bright enough.

For the battery, I bought this one from Allbattery:
http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865037v6600mahrechargeablebatterymodulewithpcbfreeshipping.aspx

My original battery still has some useable runtime, but you could use your connector if it's dead. I was trying to find a post I read years ago where somebody replaced the batteries inside of the case - haven't been able to locate it. I will tackle this when I feel the runtimes have become useless. What I did for the new battery was bought this extension cable from Cygolite:
http://www.shop.cygolite.com/product.sc?productId=72&categoryId=58

Cut, spliced, shrink-tubed and taped. This allowed me to add a little length to the pigtail.

Finally picked up some Plasti-Dip from Lowes:
http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

You can search for this battery waterproofing technique in this forum.

The new battery charges okay with the Cygolite charger, although it takes much longer due to the increased capacity rating. Overall, I'm pleased with it.

This is a good read, and StevelKnivel did it right with the Tridenx MC-E upgrade. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=488066

The LED and new optics look great in this thread.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Thanks a ton Hawesman. I can't believe I never checked the cygolite site for extensions:madman: . I have looked for connectors for this light for awhile to build a spare battery for 24 hour events. I'll be throwing in the XP-Gs soon. Thanks to you I can upgrade the light, build a spare battery and be good to go.
Thanks again. :thumbsup:


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