# Stuck Press-fit Bottom Bracket



## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Guys-- looking for some help here-

I'm replacing a press-fit bottom bracket on my Pivot 429 for the first time. Using the Park BBT-90.3 and following the directions, I was able to get the non-drive side cup out just fine. However, the the drive side cup refuses to budge, no matter how long I bang on the hammer.

I've done more than a few forum and google searches, but found nothing to help me. Is there anything I'm over-looking?

Thanks!


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

have someone support the bb area so the force of the hammer is not being taken away from the swinging of the frame


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## chronic64 (Jan 9, 2011)

use some wd40 to loosen it up and give it a few minutes to really penetrate the joint, just remember to clean the area well afterwards


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

When in doubt, use a bigger hammer.

You could also lay the bike on the floor and support the BB area with blocks of wood, then carefully bash it out with the tool. Lay some rags or something soft between the wood & frame if you don't want to scratch it.


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## RockyMt (Jan 29, 2011)

FYI

Here is a note from Chris Cocalis:

Just want to clarify some things on this post. Although neither SRAM nor Shimano specify that Loctite is needed on the press fit bottom brackets, we have found that it eliminates any chance of movement or squeaking long term. We originally used green two years ago and it was a little overly aggressive, but we switched to blue and all current Mach 5.7 frames should have the BB installed with blue Loctite. We do not recommend heating the frame. You can destroy the heat treat on an aluminum frame if you heat it up to much, not to mention bearings and finish . Also, unless there is actually a problem with the bottom bracket, we do not recommend taking it out of the frame until it is worn out. The XTR BB’s that currently come installed in framesets (and back to the introduction of the Mach 4, Mach 5 frames) have a 3 year warranty. If the bearings are blown or worn out, Shimano will warranty it for 3 years. If the cup cracks on removal because of a problem, they should still warranty it. However, with the proper Shimano removal tool, BB’s with blue Loctite generally do not have an issue being removed from the frame. If you are installing a new BB and would like to use grease, there is no problem with that either. We like to use a very small amount of blue Loctite. 

Sincerely,

Chris Cocalis | President/CEO, Pivot Cycles 
__________________


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## padrefan1982 (Mar 2, 2005)

Thanks guys for all the advice. The wife helped me out some with removing the stuck cup-- it was destroyed, but the frame did just fine. I had an Enduro bearing set up to replace the stock BB. I'll keep all the thoughts in mind should this ever come up again.


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## jlucas (Dec 4, 2015)

What loctite number is the "blue"? I've read many people using 609 or 640.


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## slider32 (Apr 7, 2010)

jlucas said:


> What loctite number is the "blue"? I've read many people using 609 or 640.


"Blue" is likely referring to 242 threadlocker.

609 is the "green" sleeve retaining compound referenced above and 640 is a high strength sleeve retaining compound


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

if were trying to remove the bb while the bike is suspended on the seatpost clamp to a workstand, yeah, tis hard. 

second person does help.


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## bayposter (Aug 19, 2020)

padrefan1982 said:


> Thanks guys for all the advice. The wife helped me out some with removing the stuck cup-- it was destroyed, but the frame did just fine. I had an Enduro bearing set up to replace the stock BB. I'll keep all the thoughts in mind should this ever come up again.


Reviving on old thread... I recently had to remove a stubborn Shimano PF BB92 from an aluminum frame. I used the Park BBT-90.3.

The drive side came out pretty easily, but the non-drive side was really stuck. I had to put the bike upside down on the floor, brace the non-drive side of the frame against my legs and take some really hard wacks on the removal tool.

After several hard wacks, the retaining edge of the cup broke and came out along with the bearing. Then I had to carefully remove the rest of the cup with the removal tool. In the end, the non-drive side of the BB was totally destroyed.

Fortunately, I took my time and was careful, so there was no damage or scratches to the inside of BB shell. It looks as good as new.

I didn't install this BB, but it looks like it had no installation prep at all. I don't want this to happen again down the road. What's the best installation prep to avoid creaks, and at the same time, avoid a stuck BB when it comes time for removal?

I watched the Park Tools  video on press fit BB removal and installation. For installation prep, they recommend grease, anti-seize compound, or retaining compound. I'm leaning towards anti-seize compound because its relatively inexpensive and supposedly works better than grease.

I'm sure retaining compound would prevent creaks the best, but the idea of basically gluing the BB to the frame scares me. The idea of using locktite (as mentioned in this thread) seems even crazier.

Experiences? Recommendations?


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

bayposter said:


> Reviving on old thread... I recently had to remove a stubborn Shimano PF BB92 from an aluminum frame. I used the Park BBT-90.3.
> 
> The drive side came out pretty easily, but the non-drive side was really stuck. I had to put the bike upside down on the floor, brace the non-drive side of the frame against my legs and take some really hard wacks on the removal tool.
> 
> ...


https://www.parktool.com/product/press-fit-retaining-compound-rc-1


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

bayposter said:


> ...I watched the Park Tools  video on press fit BB removal and installation. For installation prep, they recommend grease, anti-seize compound, or retaining compound. I'm leaning towards anti-seize compound because its relatively inexpensive and supposedly works better than grease.
> 
> I'm sure retaining compound would prevent creaks the best, but the idea of basically gluing the BB to the frame scares me. The idea of using locktite (as mentioned in this thread) seems even crazier.
> 
> Experiences? Recommendations?


I am a believer in a slow escalation of force. Why be confrontational from the start. Use your anti seize. If it develops a creak take it out and glue (locktite) it in.

I have never had a BB creak with 2 PF frames I owned so I only used grease or teflon paste (carbon frames). But if a 100 commenters say glue it in I understand why because a BB creak would drive me crazy too.


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

Ratt said:


> I am a believer in a slow escalation of force. Why be confrontational from the start. Use your anti seize. If it develops a creak take it out and glue (locktite) it in.
> 
> I have never had a BB creak with 2 PF frames I owned so I only used grease or teflon paste (carbon frames). But if a 100 commenters say glue it in I understand why because a BB creak would drive me crazy too.


Both Loctite and Park make products specifically for Pressfit BB's. They both also make products you DON'T want to use! Don't use glue, don't use Loctite thread lock. This stuff works, no creaks on 4 bikes with PF BB's and it's easy to remove and replace.


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## bayposter (Aug 19, 2020)

MSU Alum said:


> Both Loctite and Park make products specifically for Pressfit BB's. They both also make products you DON'T want to use! Don't use glue, don't use Loctite thread lock. This stuff works, no creaks on 4 bikes with PF BB's and it's easy to remove and replace.


I assume when you say "this stuff works" you are referring to the Park Tools retaining compound.

How many BBs have you removed that were installed with retaining compound? How easy was it to get them out? Were any of the BBs destroyed in the process?

Here's another video by Park Tools on using their retaining compound to avoid chainring creaks. At about the 5min mark they show how the retaining compound basically glues the chainring on to the crank. I'm sure it works, but it's also a little scary. It seems like a press-fit BB installed with this stuff could be hard to remove.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

MSU Alum said:


> Both Loctite and Park make products specifically for Pressfit BB's. They both also make products you DON'T want to use! Don't use glue, don't use Loctite thread lock. This stuff works, no creaks on 4 bikes with PF BB's and it's easy to remove and replace.


Ok not glue but adhesive. I like the Park warning for their not glue; "...Failure to do so could result in permanently bonded parts."


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

bayposter said:


> I assume when you say "this stuff works" you are referring to the Park Tools retaining compound.
> 
> How many BBs have you removed that were installed with retaining compound? How easy was it to get them out? Were any of the BBs destroyed in the process?
> 
> Here's another video by Park Tools on using their retaining compound to avoid chainring creaks. At about the 5min mark they show how the retaining compound basically glues the chainring on to the crank. I'm sure it works, but it's also a little scary. It seems like a press-fit BB installed with this stuff could be hard to remove.


I have 4 bikes with PF BB's now. I have removed and replaced the PF's on all 4 while using the Park Tool retaining compound. I have never used the AP-1 primer and have never had a problem removing a BB undamaged as a result.

Regarding RC-1: "Fills gaps and helps retain non-threaded parts like Press-fit bottom bracket parts, sealed bearings etc. Competes with Loctite® 680™."

On a side note, I've never had a PF BB make noise, but I have had bearings inside the BB go bad using Race Face PF BB's which are in a plastic housing. I've gone to Rotor brand metal PF's and THAT problem was solved.

Anyway, I've always used the Park Tool retaining compound and have found it to be very easy to insert AND REMOVE the BB's without causing any damage to them. I've swapped between bikes in addition to installing new ones. It makes it easy to do without damaging the bike as well. In fact, it's easier (with the proper tools) than removing and replacing threaded BB's which isn't saying much, because that's easy as well.

Retention is gentle, so using an RT-1 head cup remover requires only light tapping. Greater retention would increase the likelihood of damage to the bearing cups and the bike, I'd guess. For that reason, I'm not inclined to use more "glue-like" compounds.


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## bayposter (Aug 19, 2020)

MSU Alum said:


> I have 4 bikes with PF BB's now. I have removed and replaced the PF's on all 4 while using the Park Tool retaining compound. I have never used the AP-1 primer and have never had a problem removing a BB undamaged as a result.


What tools do you use for removal?

I am a little surprised you get away without using the primer. In the Park Tools video they warn (at 10:00) that the primer helps "prevent permanent bonding".

There is also a GMBN video where they warn (at 10:20) that "if you don't use the primer, later when you go to knock out the cups, you can damage the frame".


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

bayposter said:


> ...What tools do you use for removal?


Apologies, don't mean to butt in. I'm too cheap to buy the Park tool and actually never seen it in action but I use this $13 tool. It does both 30mm and 24mm/gxp bearings. Have not tried to fit it into a Dub BB. The collet is nice, you can precisely place the tool. I've accidently knocked out only the bearing and had to go back and get the cups. Was very easy to use. It looks to be a rebranded Bike Hand tool so probably available at other places.


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## MSU Alum (Aug 8, 2009)

bayposter said:


> What tools do you use for removal?
> 
> I am a little surprised you get away without using the primer. In the Park Tools video they warn (at 10:00) that the primer helps "prevent permanent bonding".
> 
> There is also a GMBN video where they warn (at 10:20) that "if you don't use the primer, later when you go to knock out the cups, you can damage the frame".


I use a park Tool RT-1. Any tool designed for the job, like the Foundation tool, is fine. If you feel more comfortable using the primer, do so.

I just went down to my "shop" and removed, cleaned and replaced the BB on my Giant, which I pressed in over a year ago - out of curiosity - and I figured it was due for a cleaning. Took about 10 minutes and there were no problems. But, like I said, If you feel more comfortable using the primer, do so. Can't hurt!


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