# Your thoughts about the Specialized Crux for 2014 with hydro brakes?



## Jaybo (Mar 5, 2008)

ruX Elite Rival Disc

Utilizing SRAM's 10-speed Hydro disc levers (S-700) and the 10-speed SRAM Rival group, the CruX Elite Rival Disc (US$3,200) still gets a carbon frame with a tapered head tube and oversized bottom bracket.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

Here is a review from James Huang regarding the ride of the frame and the geometry.

Specialized CruX Pro Carbon Review | Cyclingnews.com.

Here's a BikeRadar review of the Crux Expert Carbon Disc from last winter/spring as well:

Specialized Crux Expert Carbon Disc - First Ride Review - BikeRadar

everyone who's reviewed these frames so far has been really pleased with how they ride. In particular I'd trust James Huang, who I happen to know personally. He's the original "Angry Asian" of ye olde MTB shock review website "angryasian.com". If I've learned anything from this industry, it's to trust that James is no industry shill and will speak his mind when he doesn't like something. For him to give that bike a 4.5 star review speaks highly of how it rides and handles.

Unfortunately his review is from January 2013 and doesn't cover the Big Question, which is: how do the SRAM hydros work/feel. Which is apparently some sort of huge industry secret as I've barely been able to find any info online, just some Specialized early release blurbs, which, well, yea.

Anyhow, if it helps at all, my husband and I are taking the risks on this one as early adopters - we just ordered the 2014 early release Crux Pro Disc model. I don't know how long it'll take for them to arrive but as soon as we've gotten a few miles on them I can post my opinions here.

Here's hoping the SRAM Hydro road discs work better than their 10-speed twist shifters anyhow...


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

My opinion based on zero experience with the frame or components -

The frame and fork are good but heavier than the competition.
The shifting will be good but nothing spectacular.
The brakes will be problematic at best, will be replaced free of charge and still won't work.


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## Eric Malcolm (Dec 18, 2011)

I will add to this discussion my support for going Hydro. The industry is up to speed on disc's, Road and Cyclo are catching up. Sram equipement is made by Avid, reputable brakes on MTB bikes.

I use a hybrid gravel bike of sorts that I made that uses Shimano XTR levers and XT calipers, 160mm disc's for the past 2yrs and I can report that they are so 'feelsome', powerful and clean running as to leave anything else looking short of performance.

I welcome this development with open arms, assuming the shifters works well.

Eric


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

I also think hydraulic brakes make sense, if they're made by Shimano. 

Avid's hydraulic brake reputation is that they suck. Everyone I ride with/talk to that uses Avid brakes has problems with them. Even guys that work in/own bike stores!

I use XTR with XT rotors on my mtn.bike and they're awesome. I bet the new Ultegra Di2 disc works great but I have no faith in SRAM getting things right on their first attempt.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

meh, the 10R "new" Crux frame and fork (2nd gen carbon) have been extensively ridden and tested and are well liked. If you want lighter, you can spend $2.5K extra and spring for the S-Works version 11R frame/fork which is all of 100g lighter.

now if you're thinking of the prior "Tricross" carbon design (the one with the Zertz stays) then you would be correct, but that design was abandoned 2 seasons ago.

I mean, once your bike is covered with mud, they all weigh thirty pounds anyhow, right?

I've seen postings on other boards where the frames at the smaller end of the scale (52, 49, etc...) are easily building out below UCI limits (~16#) with BB7 discs and mostly stock components, meaning you don't have to do much to get them very, very light. BB7 are reportedly heavier than the SRAM hydro system (steel cables weigh more than hoses w/fluid).

I ran Avids for years (Juicy Ultimates, X9, XX, in the older configuration and the newer taperbore) and never had issues with them. If you know how to bleed them correctly, then they actually work better than Shimanos, which I've found can pump up / overheat on very long tough descents and will often quit working altogether in very cold (under 0°C) conditions.

but don't listen to me, I have only been riding and racing for a couple decades...

I mean you're exactly right in one respect - the SRAM hydros are untested. And their 10 and 11 speed twist shifters have a known warranty issue (internal plastic bits going to hell; that's just poor design). But I don't get the Avid hate on these forums. Ours were never noisy and the couple times we ever had brake drag it was easily solved by either checking for rotor truing or a quick bleed.

We opted for Formulas on our Niners for pure weight weenie reasons, and they've been fine too. They've required the same exact amount of maintenance (bleeds, caliper fine tuning) as the Avids we are used to, except that parts are much harder to find when (for example) my husband somehow managed to crack one of his bar clamps during a routine adjustment and tweaked a rotor in a crash.


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## JayBay13 (Feb 19, 2010)

Chalk me up as an early-adpoter as well - I have a 61cm Crux Expert Red Disc on order. I've loved my 2012 alloy Crux (cantilever) for the last year, and I'm stoked to get on the new one. I also run SRAM brakes on the mountain bike, Avid Elixer 9's, and I've had absolutely no trouble with them. Yes, they can be tricky to bleed properly, but once you've done it a few times it's really not that complicated. And mine have been strong with fantastic feel for 2 years now, no complaints. 

I know SRAM has dug itself in a bit of a hole with warranty issues over the last few years, but I'm still hanging in there. I prefer the ergonomics of the SRAM brifters over Shimano and even my Campy Record 11 setup. 

I can't wait to get my new bike!!!! Woohoo!!!


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

I picked mine up this week.








I posted some thoughts and pictures on my blog here:
New Bike Day! 2014 Specialized CruX Expert Red Disc | Cycles In Life


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## bikerboy85 (Mar 15, 2010)

Nice bike. I'm waiting for mine to arrive. May I ask what type of wheels your running


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

bikerboy85 said:


> Nice bike. I'm waiting for mine to arrive. May I ask what type of wheels your running


Thank you! The wheels are the stock Axis wheels with removed decals.


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## vcnzone (Aug 9, 2010)

for that price it's almost a scam, sorry to say so, but this is what I think. I wouldn't waste my money with branded bikes anyway.


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## chuckie33 (Oct 2, 2008)

Awesome bike. I picked up in on Saturday. First cross bike and I'm really enjoying so far. My local shop has sold all5 they got in immediately.


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## bikerboy85 (Mar 15, 2010)

cujarrett said:


> Thank you! The wheels are the stock Axis wheels with removed decals.


Oh ok, I think they look better without the stickers. I've been informed that the Australian shipment is running a week behind, so more waiting for me. Do you know the weight of your bike? I would imagine that the stock wheels are quite heavy


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

I just put mine together today, first ride tomorrow! How do the brakes work for everyone? Mine seem to bottom out a little close to the bars. I think I may bleed them prior to heading out.


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## PTJ (Apr 15, 2010)

I got the rival version with 10speedhydro. Swapped the stock wheels for some iron cross comp 32spoke build and dropped 1lb 14ozs. Just hit some double track, gravel and chip seal on a short loop from home before dark. I'm initially impressed but it'll take a while to make a fair review.


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## Thorfinnur (Sep 20, 2010)

I picked mine up last Monday its a Expert Red Disk. All I can say is awesome. I had a 2011 comp prior to this one and the difference is huge on the brake side and I love the 11 speed shifter. I am accustomed to avid brakes and all I can say is that if bled they work flawlessly, they will make a howling in the wet but for the increase in braking power that already has saved my skin from a collision crossing a intersection I do not mind the howling. The weight is 8.9kg a 2-300g heavier than expected but I am happy with the overall feel. I plan on getting new wheels as soon as I have recovered from this investment.


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## bikerboy85 (Mar 15, 2010)

PTJ said:


> I got the rival version with 10speedhydro. Swapped the stock wheels for some iron cross comp 32spoke build and dropped 1lb 14ozs. Just hit some double track, gravel and chip seal on a short loop from home before dark. I'm initially impressed but it'll take a while to make a fair review.
> 
> What hubs did you end up using? Did you just reuse the stock ones that came on the old wheels


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## Fakie1999 (Feb 14, 2010)

lonefrontranger said:


> they actually work better than Shimanos, which I've found can pump up / overheat on very long tough descents and will often quit working altogether in very cold (under 0°C) conditions.
> 
> but don't listen to me, I have only been riding and racing for a couple decades...


I use shimano xt brakes on my snow bike. I havent had any problems with the brakes not working, all the way down to -5F. The lever pull does get a bit harder in cold weather, but, they've been flawless.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I got the Rival EVO version which I have upgraded. I wanted lower gearing for the hilly gravel roads I ride, so I went to a 12-32 PG1070 cassette. This required a WiFLi RD and I kind of went nuts going with Red front and rear derailleurs and crankset. I also added Stan's Iron Cross wheels with Clement MSO 40mm tires running tubeless. This all dropped about 2.5 lbs from the stock setup.

The bike handles great. Very stable on fast gravel downhills, but very responsive to steering around or hopping over obstacles. The CG-R seatpost really works to dull the impact of bumps. Shifting is flawless, though I did get some chain rub with the original Apex front derailleur which is not really compatible with the front shifter which, being designed for a Yaw-capable unit like the Red, has no trim position.

The brakes have plenty of power, but the modulation is what I really like about them. I can get just a bit or lots of stopping power by varying the amount of lever pull. The levers have such long travel that I was sometimes having the shift paddles lock onto the bar tape until I pointed the hoods inward a few degrees, giving the shift paddles more clearance. I want to try bleeding the brakes to see if I can get actuation earlier.


profile by BluesDawg, on Flickr


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## PTJ (Apr 15, 2010)

bikerboy85 said:


> PTJ said:
> 
> 
> > I got the rival version with 10speedhydro. Swapped the stock wheels for some iron cross comp 32spoke build and dropped 1lb 14ozs. Just hit some double track, gravel and chip seal on a short loop from home before dark. I'm initially impressed but it'll take a while to make a fair review.
> ...


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

Just an update - our first 'cross race will be this weekend, but I wanted to give my impressions after riding the Crux Pro for about a month.

This bike is insanely fast. It rides like a road bike, and I mean that in a good way. Even with the heavy stock alloy wheelset, the acceleration out of the corners is amazing. It's like a crit bike that you can race in the dirt.

We first rode them around 40 miles and several thousand feet of climbing in the local mountains (Fourmile - Switzerland Trail - Gold Hill - Boulder), and the next weekend we did nearly 60 miles in a big open space plains loop (Boulder - Superior - Erie - Longmont - Boulder) that included pavement, singletrack, farm roads and lots of rolling crusher fine trails.

The fit, geometry, handling and comfort on these bikes is out of this world. The brakes are an absolute game changer, especially on the nasty loose washboard dirt descent coming down Sunshine Canyon from Gold Hill. I find myself carrying a lot more momentum on things like loose-over-hardpack switchbacks and descending because there is so much fine modulation in the brakes. They do squeak a tiny bit under hard braking, but no more than my Formulas do on my Niner. The Specialized FACT crankset on the Pro is freaking stout, and has so far been trouble-free.

The gearing may or may not be a little steep for me although it was fine on the Switzerland Trail. I am 45 and female but it may not matter enough for cross racing to change it, so I'll see this weekend.

The only thing I've found to quibble with so far is the FACT seatpost design, which has tended to slip, but I got the torque wrench out and nailed it down to spec, so we'll see if that sorts it. I may swap it out for a 3T anyhow, as I'm not a huge fan of single bolt designs.

I'm running Time ATACS and a Fizik Aliante saddle. Changed out the stock tires for Clements as soon as I got it - the stock tires are wire bead and the Axis 2.0 wheels are pretty hefty, but we just got the Roval carbons glued up this week and they'll drop over a pound off the bike.

Can't wait to race it, and both my husband and I agree they're worth every penny. I haven't ridden my road bike since I got the Crux. I may just sell it, and rebuild my Powertap into a set of Iron Cross disc wheels


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## jochribs (Nov 12, 2009)

^^Oh man is that awesome. I want one of these so freaking bad. Can't decide whether I should by the pro frameset and put my custom Crests into it, or maybe just buy the expert. I'd be close to the price of the expert if I did it that way considering that the Red 22 shifter/brake combo is approximately $1000 for the front and rear alone.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

BluesDawg said:


> The levers have such long travel that I was sometimes having the shift paddles lock onto the bar tape until I pointed the hoods inward a few degrees, giving the shift paddles more clearance. I want to try bleeding the brakes to see if I can get actuation earlier.


ya the shop actually warned us about that when we got them - they said they'd already canted the hoods/levers to avoid this issue, and they took some time setting them up for me since I'm little (5'4" with small hands) - I'm not sure because I haven't read all the spec on the SRAM Hydro-R brakes, but there maybe some adjustability in the reach / pad contact? idk, I'm not the world's greatest mechanic but I'll snoop around.

I will also say this: those hoods are enormous, and even with my small hands, this is actually a good thing. It provides a huge amount of stability for dismounts, remounts, and sketchy offcamber things where I'd normally switch to the drops and/or may not have enough time/warning to swap hand positions on something scary. They are incredibly secure and your hands will never slip off the hoods on these.

They also seem to provide more leverage for popping the front wheel up over roots, logs, steps, etc... I'm no barrier-hopper (not even close) but I've been able to go up things like tall curbs easily on this guy, where I usually hesitate to try it on the roadie, etc... It is just such a nimble, flickable bike, even more so than the 2011 Crux Expert (old Tricross design) that was its predecessor, and which I liked very much already.


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## PTJ (Apr 15, 2010)

My 14 year old son races on a 54cm Tarmac. Here's a picture of it sitting next to my 56cm crux to compare frame angles and explain why the crux feels so much like a road bike.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

PTJ said:


> My 14 year old son races on a 54cm Tarmac. Here's a picture of it sitting next to my 56cm crux to compare frame angles and explain why the crux feels so much like a road bike.


Yea Spesh was actually pretty forthcoming with their plan for the Crux to be "a Tarmac for the dirt". I've seen that exact language in their press releases and reviews. It certainly works.

Even with the "racier" geometry on the new one, my Crux Pro handles better than my 2011 Crux Expert, which was a fine bike. The Pro is somehow both more nimble AND more predictable running the exact same tires, like LITERALLY - I swapped the Clements off my Expert as soon as I got the new one in the garage. It handles a lot like a custom built Easton 7005 crit bike I raced a lot about ten years ago, but without the twitchy descending characteristics or the bone-jarring harshness on rough ground (and yes, I rode the crit bike on dirt a time or 2 because I'm crazy like that).

Pretty sure the handling improvement on the newer Crux geometry owes itself to better tracking and stiffness, shorter wheelbase / front-center / chainstays / lower BB / whatever.

Enough babbling. Time for bike porn. These are our 2014 Crux Pros. The first pic is my husband riding his at the top of Switzerland Trail before we headed east to Gold Hill. Second pic is mine outside our bike lockers at work (yea I lopped that spacer stack off the top of my stem as soon as I had the right tool to do it with).


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

BluesDawg said:


> The brakes have plenty of power, but the modulation is what I really like about them. I can get just a bit or lots of stopping power by varying the amount of lever pull. The levers have such long travel that I was sometimes having the shift paddles lock onto the bar tape until I pointed the hoods inward a few degrees, giving the shift paddles more clearance. I want to try bleeding the brakes to see if I can get actuation earlier.


I Picked up my Expert Red last week and had the first Race of the season today and this bike rocks, Complete mud fest!!! I put it together as I work at the LBS part time and was supper impressed with the brakes! but not so impressed with how they pined the shifter to the bar when you really got on them. I bleed them per the SRAM setup guide, you can watch a video on youtube, and it didn't change anything

It isn't a bleed/air issue. If you use the spacer blocks like the instructions tell you to do when you put it all back together there is so much room between the rotor and pads it takes half the lever pull just to make contact. Have your bike shop just add a little fluid to the top reservoir in the hood to squeeze the pads down a little while the disk is in the caliper. It makes all the Difference!!! The levers no longer contact the bars

The only drawback is they now don't have as much clearance for warped rotors and mud. But neither do my Formulas


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

AKRC78 said:


> not so impressed with how they pined the shifter to the bar when you really got on them.


that was discussed upthread actually in 2 different replies. the shop guys who sold us our bikes warned us about this issue. The trick is to cant the levers a bit to the side, not to re-bleed them.


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

I just wanted to know, do the Axis wheels come with rotors?


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

erichwic said:


> I just wanted to know, do the Axis wheels come with rotors?


Both sets of wheels that came with our Crux Pros came with everything to run both sets of wheels, including tires, QRs and rotors. Only thing they didn't come with was a 2nd cassette on the Roval Carbons (which really isn't a big deal).

All of the other Crux 2014 Hydro-R models I've seen at the shop sell with the Axis fully built and rotors installed, yes.


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

Wow, that's solid. Mine ships tomorrow. Planning on selling both sets of wheels to make up for some of the expense. When you say 2 sets of tires, what clincher tires does it come with?


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

erichwic said:


> Wow, that's solid. Mine ships tomorrow. Planning on selling both sets of wheels to make up for some of the expense. When you say 2 sets of tires, what clincher tires does it come with?


Tracer sport wirebeads that weigh about a million pounds. My husband likes the tread pattern and left them on, but I replaced them with the Clements that came off my 2011 Crux. Between swapping out the Tracers and the weird proprietary angleset stem it came with, I easily took a half a kilogram off the bike before even changing out the Axis 2.0s, which are also fairly heavy.

The Roval Carbons are seriously nice wheels, but I can understand if you don't want the hassle of tubulars. The Terra tubular tires they came with are very nice as well.

I'll probably get a nicer set of Stan's wheels as my alloy/clincher set at some point, if only to make mounting the Clements tubeless an easier row to hoe.


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## R. Fink (Sep 6, 2005)

Picked up my Elite disc a couple of weeks ago and love it. A little bit of brake squeal but the power and modulation are great. I wanted the pads to engage the rotors sooner (as discussed earlier in this thread) and went on Specialized's website but there was no manual for the hydro discs. Took it to the shop where I bought it (West End in Houston) and they were able to adjust via adjustment screw accessed I think by pulling the shift paddle inward. I'm away from home for a few days and have no way to verify on the bike and I wish I would have paid closer attention when he did it, but he adjusted to where the shift paddles don't hit the bars anymore and unless I really need a hard stop, I can basically apply plenty of stopping power with just my index finger.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

R. Fink said:


> ...I wanted the pads to engage the rotors sooner (as discussed earlier in this thread) and went on Specialized's website but there was no manual for the hydro discs. Took it to the shop where I bought it (West End in Houston) and they were able to adjust via adjustment screw accessed I think by pulling the shift paddle inward. I'm away from home for a few days and have no way to verify on the bike and I wish I would have paid closer attention when he did it, but he adjusted to where the shift paddles don't hit the bars anymore and unless I really need a hard stop, I can basically apply plenty of stopping power with just my index finger.


YES!!! Thanks for posting this. When you pull the shift paddle in toward the bar, you can see a screw that takes a 2.5mm allen. Turning that screw clockwise moves the brake lever out. This fixed my problem and I was able to turn my levers back to the normal straight position with no interference.


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

BluesDawg said:


> YES!!! Thanks for posting this. When you pull the shift paddle in toward the bar, you can see a screw that takes a 2.5mm allen. Turning that screw clockwise moves the brake lever out. This fixed my problem and I was able to turn my levers back to the normal straight position with no interference.


Yep the lever adjust screw moves it away from the bar but if you want an earlier contact you just have to add a little fluid to the top of the system to squeeze the pads down a little. I had to do this to my rear because I didn't like how far out I had to adjust the lever to keep it from contacting the bar.


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## chuckie33 (Oct 2, 2008)

I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.

Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

Does anyone know the difference between the Roval CL40 tubular wheelset and the Roval CLX tubular wheelset listed on the Spesh site?


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

chuckie33 said:


> I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.
> 
> Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?


If you use too much carbon paste it can actually make things worse. Try cleaning the seat post and down tube and use just a little paste. I have not had this problem and have raced the bike 3 times and put several hundred more miles on it so far.


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

erichwic said:


> Does anyone know the difference between the Roval CL40 tubular wheelset and the Roval CLX tubular wheelset listed on the Spesh site?


guess not.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

chuckie33 said:


> I love my bike so far but the seatpost slippage has gotten so bad that I can hardly ride it anymore. Somebody else mentioned this problem above. I have put paste on the post and tightened to spec and then far beyond spec but still the same issue. No way I can race on it doing this.
> 
> Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?


mine's not slipping down, agreed on the too much carbon paste idea. However, it is not holding fore/aft tilt adjustment despite torquing to spec. I don't much like it anyhow as those silly elastomer inserts just add weight and reduce functionality (fortunately I'm not among them but I do know several people who can't drop the post low enough as insertion is restricted by the inserts at a spot that seems ridiculously high especially on smaller frames).

As an aside, I've hated virtually every single bolt seatpost ever made except the old early (heavy!) Campagnolo ones, and this one is no different. I'm going to trade it out for a 3T or something similar in carbon that's based on the tried-and-true Thompson dual bolt concept.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

erichwic said:


> guess not.


I believe the CLX is actually a carbon clincher rim, not tubular.

edit: nope, the CLX appears to be the "S-Works" uber-level, the CL40 is one grade below. From a quick Google Search, Bikeradar says:

_
The Specialized Roval wheel line has expanded a bit for 2014, with three new CLX carbon options. The new 40mm CLX 40 tubulars weigh 1,240g, and their 60mm counterparts - the CLX 60s - weigh 1,330g. A tubular disc CLX 40 is also available at 1,340g.

There are already clincher and clincher disc wheels in these depths, plus the more affordable CL 40 and CL 60.​_


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

the only difference is the bearings. The CLX wheels have ceramic bearings. Anyone interested in buying a set of brand new, never used CL40 tubular disc wheels? I'll include the rotors. PM me if interested.


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

Going ultra max heart rate on a sand dune runup, arcticcross race #5! 

This bike has been unbelievable!! The brakes and drivetrain have worked flawlessly even with sticks and grass completely wrapped up in the cassette. I threw my roval carbon mtb wheels on it and set them up tubeless. Which made it stiffer and more responsive. Specialized knocked it out of the park with this bike!


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

*Gearing options*

Looking for an extra gear I've fitted an ultegra 6800 11-32, it fits fine with the short cage (b-screw all the way in)  No need for the wifli, chain didn't need to be touched either.









(I thought about swapping the 36T inner ring for a 34T but the shifting is so good I was reluctant to play with it.)

Loving this bike! (1st cx, fitted 28mm conti 4 seasons for road work and it's simply awesome)

14 Crux Expert Red Hydro


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

its kinda odd that the crux expert doesn't have the swork seatpost, but the crux elite evo does ;-)


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

chuckie33 said:


> Any solutions? Maybe try a new carbon post?


this is ultimately what I did, as I could not get the OEM fact post to hold / retain angle even torqued above spec - the saddle angle would constantly slip back until I was riding something that resembled a dirt jump / BMX bike, which is no good.

Cashed in some Amazon points on a new fi'zik Cyrano carbon post with fi'zik Arione R1 saddle. Made an already fabulous bike even more amazing, if that is even possible. The carbon rails on the R1 transmit zero high frequency buzz to my butt. I rode a 3 hour dirt adventure cruise after the cyclocross race at Boulder Rez on Saturday - the local county dirt roads have been reopened to traffic after the flood but they are in very rough shape - big washouts, ruts, massive washboards, sections that have been "repaved" with baseball-sized rip-rap, sand pits, you name it. New saddle and post have transformed an already forgiving bike into a magic carpet. You know you're riding over rough stuff, but somehow there's no transmission through to your spine.

This made for an excellent ride and better than expected performance at Sunday's Boulder Cup race. I'll never be fast, but I was easily able to pass other girls through the rougher off-camber sections of the very technical course, and with over 100 women on the course (SW 3 / 4 / 35+ and Junior Women 15-18) being able to pass in the uphill offcamber bumps was a necessity. I have to say the compliance and handling was a major control advantage. This bike is absolutely a better bike handler than I am.

I talked to a guy out at last week's cross race who has the 2013 Crux Pro Disc and he said he sold his road bike in May and raced the Crux in crits, road races and hillclimbs throughout the road season. None of our officials ever said boo about the discs. I'm seriously considering doing this because I have ridden my Record carbon roadie exactly once since I got the Crux.


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## beshannon (Oct 14, 2012)

Great thread, my Crux Elite EVO Rival Disc is on order and I hope it comes in this week. Really looking forward to getting it built up and go riding


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

I picked up one of the Evo Rival models last week. Replaced the cranks w/SWorks carbon cranks 34x46, SWorks pave post instead of cobble gobbler, and early version Bulldogs on Arch EX wheels. Absolutely love everything but the shifting. SRAM did away with the trim feature on these shifters, which really irritates me. The brakes are great. Way better than BB-7s or the Avid Ultimates I was running.

The frame will take a 40mm tire with plenty of clearance, even mounted on the Arch EX rims. After racing it once already and having done a couple of training rides with road tires on the stock wheels, I've decided to sell my SWorks Roubaix and use the new Crux as my everything except XC bike. It really is a Tarmac with crazy clearance.


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## Spotsworth (Aug 9, 2006)

*Best Allrounder!*

Just thought I'd chime in with my own aquisition. Recently took ownership of the CruX EVO and after a month upgraded the following: S-Works Post, Enve Stem, Zipp Service Course SL Bar, SRAM Red Crank and Rear Der, FSA Cross Rings, Rival Front Der, Avid HSX and Rolf Prima Ralos CXC 29 Carbon Wheels. I wrapped the tires in GP 4 Seasons (for my commuting) and put Racing Ralphs on the Axis wheels. Best part was I did the whole upgrade while my 16 mo old twins were taking a nap! #fasthands

So far, after a month of ownership, I would say this is a fantastic bike. I bought it to commute, haul my kids in their Burley, and ride the local trails and gravel. I have a dedicated road race/training bike so this one had to be a hi-performing all rounder. It totally fits the bill.

The geometry is spot on for long, 20 mile one way commutes and I can still flick it around the local trails. Fast, light, and balanced are some adjectives i'd use to describe it...as for the Hydros...they're terrific. Much better stopping power than the canti's that were on my CAAD 9 Cross bike earlier this summer. They stop as well as the new DA9070 brakes on my race bike and in the wet they are even better. I would like to have them actuate a bit sooner, but that's a small caveat.


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## alula (Oct 15, 2013)

How much did that cost you compared to the $6300 race crux with rovals and more red parts?


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## Spotsworth (Aug 9, 2006)

If i would have paid retail and had to buy all of the parts probably about the same...but I didn't. Except for the wheels and rotors, I already had all of the parts on my shelf. More important to me is to have the frame I want with the parts I want. I don't want tubulars so the wheels are a wash if I buy the Race Red. Only thing I would want to get in the future is the 22spd drivetrain. But until then, my ride is built to fit my body and riding style.


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## alula (Oct 15, 2013)

yeah i agree with you, if i could "build to order" I would 
I don't have parts lying around tho 

That being said, i saw a crux race commuting on the rovals yesterday in front of me, damn it still looks nice..


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## GreenMtn.Man (Nov 30, 2006)

I am currently in the market for a new bike and would like to have something that will be good for the D2R2 and rides like that. I enjoy tying together dirt road loops from my home and doing the ever increasing dirt road events that are getting more popular. I am a CAT4 racer in CX and have a bike now, I don't ever finish anywhere near the front so if I keep racing my old Trek XO1 it's not a big deal to me. What I am interested in is a bike that I can take on epic climbing rides where the pavement is at a minimum. I am looking for input as I am at a toss up for the Crux EVO or going the way of getting a Roubaix Sport Disk, both bikes have similar group and wheelsets. Things I am looking at are tire size that can be run on either bike and gearing due to the nature of the riding around Vermont. With my lack of keeping my mouth shut when offered ice cream from my wife I need all the help I can get. I have been doing these rides on a road bike set up with the Wi-Fi 11-32 and compact 52-36 with 25's but find them a little to narrow for this going forward. The Roubaix was my 1st choice however I am hearing all this great news about the CRUX being a great all around bike I am beginning to have second thoughts here.


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## the mayor (Nov 18, 2004)

GreenMtn....I've ridden the D2R2 many times...so I know where you are coming from.

The Crux will be a very good bike...and you can use it for Cross too.

But I rode a freind's 2012 Roubaix at this years event for 1 climb and descent.....and it impressed the hell out of me! 

This year I rode a Ridley XFire disc...which climbed great....BUT...it is really stiff and quick handling. When you get over 30 mph on washboard dirt....it never wobbled...but it didn't inspire confidence.Basically...everything that makes it a great race bike...has it's limits at the D2.
The Roubaix was super smooth and steady.

I have the hots for the Roubaix Expert Di2 disc.....it might be the ultimate do-all bike. With a gearing and tire change....I can go from road bike to dirt road bike easily.
But it's not a cross bike.


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## DrWild (Jan 15, 2013)

*@ greenmtn.man*



GreenMtn.Man said:


> I am currently in the market for a new bike and would like to have something that will be good for the D2R2 and rides like that. I enjoy tying together dirt road loops from my home and doing the ever increasing dirt road events that are getting more popular. I am a CAT4 racer in CX and have a bike now, I don't ever finish anywhere near the front so if I keep racing my old Trek XO1 it's not a big deal to me. What I am interested in is a bike that I can take on epic climbing rides where the pavement is at a minimum. I am looking for input as I am at a toss up for the Crux EVO or going the way of getting a Roubaix Sport Disk, both bikes have similar group and wheelsets. Things I am looking at are tire size that can be run on either bike and gearing due to the nature of the riding around Vermont. With my lack of keeping my mouth shut when offered ice cream from my wife I need all the help I can get. I have been doing these rides on a road bike set up with the Wi-Fi 11-32 and compact 52-36 with 25's but find them a little to narrow for this going forward. The Roubaix was my 1st choice however I am hearing all this great news about the CRUX being a great all around bike I am beginning to have second thoughts here.


You have had one vote for the Roubaix Sport. It's an amazing bike. I rode one before purchasing a crux pro disc, which I had the extreme pleasure of receiving about a month ago and I haven't stopped smiling since. I live in a very hilly region in Australia. I don't know your terrain, but the crux is spectacular on hills.

Comparing the two bikes you have mentioned, the geometry will be very similar to the point that you probably won't notice the difference. The Roubaix will most likely be lighter, but the Crux will fit fatter tires. I'm not sure of the maximum clearances, but a previous post said 40mm on the Crux which seems about right (the comparative data should be available from your LBS). The wider tires will mean even more rotating weight.

As a result I think the Roubaix will likely climb better. But you seem to be intent on fatter tires for gravel use and I think you're spot on there. I run trigger tires (32mm) on my Crux at 60psi. It seems more comfortable and compliant than the equivalent Roubaix on more narrow tires. The Crux climbs amazingly well also. And it will fit your wi-fli cassette.

If you're going on gravel, I would prioritize the fatter tires. Yesterday I had a freak experience to solidlify that choice. I was about 2 miles into a long climb, on the second largest cog. I'm about 12 lbs heavier than my previous glorious self, so I was puffing and traveling at probably 5 mph. Hearing a car approach from behind on the winding stretch I brought the bike to the side of the road and a exactly the point that the car passed a black snake was startled by me and popped into the road. (They're reportedly more than 4 times more toxic than rattlesnakes but only aggressive when scared - which this one was).

Diverting into the road would have been me being hit by the car. Straight ahead would have meant greatly aggravating a large snake at slow speed. So I took to off-road. Off-road was off-camber (significantly), very loose gravel and dry leaves with some spindly long grass and a smattering of fist-sized rocks.

Had I been on tires anything 25mm or less, I would have slammed onto the road onto or within close striking distance of a very startled (read: pissed off) snake. As is was, I simply steered around it without slipping at all and nothing to do except put my shorts through a deep wash cycle and keep it secret from my wife (she gets paranoid about these things). I would love to think it was my ninja reflexes that saved me, but it was all the bike I'm afraid.

Granted, this isn't likely to happen to you (but you do have bears, which scare me more) but my point is that fatter tires give you more options and can't be overrated for gravel.

As a more regular example of how good the Crux is, at the end of my rides I normally put the bike over a grassy embankment and ride through a local park. I can ride like a grown-up on the road and then feel like a kid again at the end of it. I've even been eyeing off the local skate-park.

The Crux is incredibly good fun, and feels really solid. It also climbs really well. It quite literally makes me feel like a kid again and as a result of it being so enjoyable I'm riding much more.

If you get the Crux, and can therefore part with your other Cross bike, might you be able to justify springing for some lighter components (enve cockpit, for example)? If so, you would probably bring the total weight down to the Roubaix territory and add even more compliance. Just sayin'!


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## Kris (Jun 15, 2004)

My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.

Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

Kris said:


> My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?


Weird, I have a 2014 Crux with hydraulic disc brakes and have experienced zero issues, and definitely no wheels falling out of the drop outs.


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## GreenMtn.Man (Nov 30, 2006)

DrWild said:


> You have had one vote for the Roubaix Sport. It's an amazing bike. I rode one before purchasing a crux pro disc, which I had the extreme pleasure of receiving about a month ago and I haven't stopped smiling since. I live in a very hilly region in Australia. I don't know your terrain, but the crux is spectacular on hills.
> 
> Comparing the two bikes you have mentioned, the geometry will be very similar to the point that you probably won't notice the difference. The Roubaix will most likely be lighter, but the Crux will fit fatter tires. I'm not sure of the maximum clearances, but a previous post said 40mm on the Crux which seems about right (the comparative data should be available from your LBS). The wider tires will mean even more rotating weight.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the information from both of you, I ended up getting a Roubaix and will wait another year on updating the cross bike. I am looking at a lighter wheelset maybe a Stan's tubeless, looks like the Roubaix is able to take a 28 mm tire. I ride allot of gravel now with 28 file tread and find this to be a good set up. Thanks again for the story!


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

i'm wondering if i should get an expert crux or wait for the evo and replace some items of the drive train. the evo just has the "force/red" stuff instead of the "rival/apex" mix and cost quite a bit more (and a few meaningless other changes like tires 'n so on, but i guess everyone just put their own wheels/tires anyways)


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## tapeworm (Nov 3, 2010)

I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks


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## alula (Oct 15, 2013)

just bought the expert  it's better than i expected even as a road bike. rode the tarmac just after and while lighter and a bit faster i like the crux ride better.


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

Add the Cannondale Super X to your shopping list. It's easily the best bike, any type of bike I've ridden.


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

tapeworm said:


> I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks


There are a lot of great carbon cross bikes out there, the differences can be pretty subtle. There are a couple of things about the carbon Crux that help it stand out, I think.

For example, it's the only race-capable bike I found w/ clearance for a 40mm tire. That was important to me as I intend to use mine as a gravel grinder bike as well as a cross race bike.

I have an SWorks Roubaix that I love, and the steering geometry of the Crux matches the Roubaix. The only differences are a very slightly higher BB than the Roubaix, and a 1cm longer chainstay. I was a little concerned that the chainstay would make the Crux a little less road-worthy. I shouldn't have worried. Can't tell the difference at all. The frame is stiff enough that steering input is spot on, it really carves turns well (I've got quite a few rides on my Crux w/ road tires).

I have to admit I bought my Crux sort of as an experiment, but now I know I'm on the right track. Aside from my XC mtb, the Crux will be my do-everything bike. I am already racing 'cross on it, plan to do gravel events on it, and will use it for the few road races I plan to do next year.

For 'cross and gravel, I'm using a set of Arch EX wheels set up tubeless. For the road, I'm going to run the disc-hubbed Velocity A23 Comp wheels and tubeless Hutchinson Sector tires.

In short, I love the bike.


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

mudge said:


> There are a lot of great carbon cross bikes out there, the differences can be pretty subtle. There are a couple of things about the carbon Crux that help it stand out, I think.
> 
> For example, it's the only race-capable bike I found w/ clearance for a 40mm tire. That was important to me as I intend to use mine as a gravel grinder bike as well as a cross race bike.
> 
> ...


Mudge,
What 40mm tires are you specifically using, or going to use, on your Crux? I'm interested in the same thing, but tires around that size seem to be a bit of a rarity.

Thanks.


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

rwitte said:


> Mudge,
> What 40mm tires are you specifically using, or going to use, on your Crux? I'm interested in the same thing, but tires around that size seem to be a bit of a rarity.
> 
> Thanks.


Kenda Happy Medium.

When they're available, I'll try out the Surly Knard in 700x41.


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

mudge said:


> Kenda Happy Medium.
> 
> When they're available, I'll try out the Surly Knard in 700x41.


Good info, thanks!!


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## tapeworm (Nov 3, 2010)

How much do the 2014 Carbon Cruxes weigh?


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

my 56cm 2014 crux expert weights 9kg stock.
my 56cm 2012 crux comp disc weights 9.9kg stock.

Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
Thanks


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

I have an update with pictures, thoughts, and weights on my 2014 Specialized Crux over on blog. Take a look!

www.CyclesInLife.com


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

boubla said:


> Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
> Thanks


nobody can take 10s to reply?


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

boubla said:


> nobody can take 10s to reply?


I can't picture what you're talking about. How about post a pic of one of your brakes that has the rings, and a pic of the brake on your Crux. It'll help.


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

boubla said:


> my 56cm 2014 crux expert weights 9kg stock.
> my 56cm 2012 crux comp disc weights 9.9kg stock.
> 
> Question: do you guys have the rubber rings on the rear disc brake caliper, where the caliper attaches to the frame? Mine doesn't, all my other disc-brake bikes do. It makes adjusting hard and it even looks like it could damage the carbon frame so I'm wondering if the LBS didn't "forget" to put them.
> Thanks


I have a detail picture of my fork disc brake interface within these pictures. It may answer what you are looking for:

New Bike Day! 2014 Specialized CruX Expert Red Disc | Cycles In Life


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

cujarrett said:


> I have a detail picture of my fork disc brake interface within these pictures. It may answer what you are looking for:
> 
> New Bike Day! 2014 Specialized CruX Expert Red Disc | Cycles In Life


Promoting the blog again??

Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.

My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

mudge said:


> Promoting the blog again??
> 
> Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.
> 
> My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.


The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked _twice_.

On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?

SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

cujarrett said:


> The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked _twice_.
> 
> On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?
> 
> SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar


From your link, a few lines below the title.

"serial numbers between 36T30000000 and 42T39999999"


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## cujarrett (Jul 23, 2009)

Dirty $anchez said:


> From your link, a few lines below the title.
> 
> "serial numbers between 36T30000000 and 42T39999999"


Yeah, I saw the effected serial numbers in the link, what I was asking is does anyone on here have an effected brake set.


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

cujarrett said:


> The guy asked a question that I tried to help with. I wasn't in front of my Crux so I posted a link to where there was a detailed picture of one of the brake mounts, which was more than anyone else did after he asked _twice_.
> 
> On another topic but related to this thread, did anyone else see the news Bike Radar posted about Sram recalling some of the hydraulic rim and disc brakes? Does anyone here have an effected serial numbered product?
> 
> SRAM stops sale of Hydro Road brakes - BikeRadar


Just messing with you a little, I'd seen in a different thread someone else giving you unwarranted grief. No offense intended.

The bigger issue, one I didn't mention earlier, is that pix of your brakes won't really help us understand what the dickens Boubla is talking about. Your brakes look just like mine did, and nothing on my brakes or in your pictures looks even remotely like a rubber ring where the caliper mounts to the frame.

To really answer his question, we need to see a pic of his brakes.


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

mudge said:


> Promoting the blog again??
> 
> Those aren't rubber rings, but conical washers. If the face of the brake mounts are square, you don't need 'em. If not, you need 'em on both sides of the brake (between brake and fork, and between brake and bolt head). One set as shown won't allow for any meaningful adjustment that a plain washer won't do just as well.
> 
> My Crux came with them on the front, but not the rear. I took 'em off the front, everything is still working just fine.


Thanks, that's exactly the answer I was looking for, and then some. With the explanation so I'm a little less dumb now 

Everything's fine then


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

tapeworm said:


> I am starting to research the idea of buying the carbon crux (or someting similar: Giant TCX Advanced, Norco Threshold Carbon, Jamis Supernova, etc) and using it for both cyclocross and as a road bike. I haven't ridden any of them yet. How is the Crux as a road bike? Specifically, my current cross bike with Ritchey WCS carbon fork is fairly annoying on the road as the fork flexes all over the place. How is the geo on the Crux as a road bike? Any other considerations to consider for road riding? As a point of reference, I am used to my Scott CR1 Limited road bike. Thanks


my Crux is about 1.5 kg heavier than my road bike and I don't notice the difference at all. In fact, I wound up riding it a bunch on the road after the floods happened here in Boulder (road damage / mud/sand/debris in the roads and general carnage) and ended up taking down a bunch of Strava PRs (on climbs, even) that I'd originally set with my fancy Campy-equipped Eye-talian road bike.

I actually prefer the ride and handling to my roadie, truth be told. I'm planning to get a set of Stans road disc wheels to replace the heavy Axis ones, and mount them up with slicks.

After talking with another racer out at one of the 'cross events who has the 2013 Sworks Crux Disc and wound up selling his road bike and just racing the Crux instead (in crits, even) I'm planning to do the same. None of the officials have batted an eye at anyone racing discs on the road, and I've heard of more than just this guy.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

Kris said:


> My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?


Nope, and we have 2 in the household. I would suggest trying to contact your shop/dealer to see if this is a warranty / defect issue.


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## DrWild (Jan 15, 2013)

tapeworm said:


> How much do the 2014 Carbon Cruxes weigh?


My Crux pro race red weighs 7.90kg with its roval wheelset on, including pedals rated at 343g (around 7.56kg without pedals). I've changed some components but these would have offset (force wifli cassette, red derailleur, enve cockpit but added gel strip) so it would be near enough to 7.6kg out of the box without pedals.


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## sashax (Aug 5, 2005)

So I now have 4 or 5 races on my Crux Pro. It's pretty great. I am not someone who's a big canti hater. I've been pretty happy with my canti-braked bikes on the race course, in general (although I live in California, where it's rarely muddy), but bought the disc Crux, since a) It's what Spesh sells as a complete bike, and b) I'm pretty sure that canti-braked high-end frames will lose resale value pretty drastically. 

The bike's super stiff. It's a cliche, but when you step on the pedals, the bike just goes. The downside is, of course, a little less bump absorption, but that's what tires are for. I've been really happy with the handling. The balance is right for the slow-speed chicanes, but it's pretty confidence inspiring on faster, sketchier stuff as well. In fact, the word I'd use is confidence. In the times I've ridden it, that's the thing that's stood out for me. 

There are a few issues I have: 
- the front shifting is not quite consistent. Occasionally it just will not go into the big ring. 
- The bike's not light. I've not weighed it, but even with the fancy wheels (I got the Pro), i'd be shocked if it were below 17.5lbs, even with the lighter stem I put on it. I mean, it's still the lightest bike I've ever owned, but it's also the most expensive, by 3 or 4x.
- The design of the specialized seatpost is such that I cannot get it low enough. The curve starts too low on the post. This is, admittedly, only a problem for people with short legs. 
- I had the same brake bite point problems that have been mentioned. I was able to resolve them, but at the cost of easy reach to the levers when in the drops. 

Pleasant surprises:
- the SRAM hydro hoods, although they look pretty dorky, are surprisingly comfortable. 
- All reports to the contrary, the disc spacing on the Axis wheels and the fancy Roval tubies is the same, so wheels are easily swappable. 
- The Pro paint job is pretty sweet looking in person.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

"- The design of the specialized seatpost is such that I cannot get it low enough. The curve starts too low on the post. This is, admittedly, only a problem for people with short legs. "

I've known a couple folks who've had this issue. It's a really dumb design for the smaller sizes. The inserts limit you from inserting the post past a certain point and they're really low down.

I swapped the post for a fizik Cyrano because (another dumb design flaw) the single bolt design means I could never get it to hold angle, even torqued past spec, which is already insanely high (9nm or something crazy). Single bolt + cross is just a really bad idea.

We've had the same experience with the wheels - they're pretty easily swappable for us; I think the only time we had rub issues was the first time or 2 we swapped them out. Pads bed in and they're fine.


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## Zion Rasta (Jan 7, 2004)

*Fantastic bike!*

I just did a 50 mile ride. Mix of gravel, dirt roads, road, snow...

Wow this thing is super fast. I have the Crux Expert 2013, with several mods.

Thomson seatpost and stem

Mavic slr 29 wheels

Ritchey evo curve carbon handlebar

And hauling ass on the roads at 28-30mph was no problem.

The bike climbs surprisingly well for 425mm chain stays.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Waiting for the BB7 brakes and Force levers as temporary replacements for the S-700 hydros on my '14 Elite EVO. Then they will send the revised hydros whenever they are available.
Updates | SRAM Road Hydraulic Brake Recall


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

BluesDawg said:


> Waiting for the BB7 brakes and Force levers as temporary replacements for the S-700 hydros on my '14 Elite EVO. Then they will send the revised hydros whenever they are available.
> Updates | SRAM Road Hydraulic Brake Recall


just FYI the BB7s feel NOTHING like the hydros and you may be somewhat sad until the full hydro replacements are swapped out.

The SRAM techs at CX Nats here in Boulder were saying May-June for replacements when I talked to them. And I talked to them because mine worked absolutely perfect with no issues right up until the rear brake failed (lever to the bar, total pressure loss) 3/4ths of the way through the first lap of my race on Thursday. No harm, no foul, I wasn't ever in contention to begin with, and I picked my way around the course okay (it was so muddy / icy / slick you just could not go fast). I don't have a pit bike so I sucked it up and rode it out, finished ahead of some others and had some excellent dirty fun. Ok it was a bit sketch with no rear brake but you barely use that one anyhow, right?

My mechanic took one look at the bike back at the tent and marched me right over to the SRAM booth for recall replacement.

Like I said way up in the beginning of the thread, we both knew we were taking a risk with early adoption. My husband's hydros are still completely fine and he raced 2 events at Nats plus the Boulder Rez "freezer-cross" with zero problems. He'll get them replaced either when they fail or he gets around to it.

I wish mine still worked. The BB7s are all kinds of vague and mushy in comparison, but it's not enough to ruin the bike for me because it still rides and handles amazingly well.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

SRAM UPDATE as of this morning, January 15th (I just got this in my email)



> Dear Cyclist with recalled SRAM Road Hydraulic Brakes:
> 
> We want to update you on the progress of our Road Hydraulic Brake Recall. As we have previously announced, we are offering you a mechanical brake system installed at our cost at your favorite Dealer. These systems are being delivered into the market beginning this week. Please contact your Dealer so that they can get the proper parts on order, and they can schedule your replacement.
> 
> ...


I have to say SRAM have been completely aboveboard and gone the extra mile for this. As it turns out (from my last email update) it was not a seal problem as initially thought, there was actually a machining error that led to the master cylinders being very slightly convex in profile. Which of course meant that they will all fail over time as the seals eventually lose enough elasticity to compensate for the added space.

Kudos to SRAM for being so forthcoming and transparent with the recall process and doing their level best to fix it. Yes we all hoped they'd get it right the first time but this is very new tech and I happen to work in quality assurance... this stuff happens despite your best efforts to prevent it.

They've also mentioned they're reviewing their entire QA process so I interpret that to mean they're putting more controls in place in their process flow. Which tends to delay things like innovation / flexibility and turnaround times, but everything has a price.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

Now, if sram/avid could just figure out how to make solid mtb disc brakes I'd be more confident. One can only hope this whole fiasco will force them to spend more time/money/etc developing better hydraulic designs for both the road and mtb side.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

from my years in engineering firms / military tool and die / biotech startups and pharma I can tell you - you work development programs on multiple axes. You can have innovation and rapid process to market but often at the cost of things like quality control. Or you can have flawless execution that takes a decade from prototype to consumer product. Generally the 2 don't mix well. It's one of the reasons Campagnolo is so cautious and reliable once to market, and SRAM tends to be much more innovative but has had quality control issues. SRAM is the new kid on the block in the bicycle components market and as such they need to bring something to the table that no one else has. I'm not surprised they tend to default towards rapid turnaround in innovation because they need the market share that brings. With it comes a reputation for their stuff being somewhat flakey but based on what I've seen from their mechanical road groups they do an extremely good job of follow up and revision as they receive feedback.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

and for the record I've ridden the "gold standard" Shimano XT brakes in 8ºF temperatures and had them completely lock up / pack up on me. Mineral oil is not the best fluid choice for extremely low temps as the viscosity goes thru the roof.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

lonefrontranger said:


> just FYI the BB7s feel NOTHING like the hydros and you may be somewhat sad until the full hydro replacements are swapped out.


I kinda disagree. I've had shimano hydros, avid juicy 7 ultimates, formula megas with 180 up front and 160 in the rear. the megas had most power and best modulation, they were surgical, and really good solid feel to it all. now i run bb7 road, stock pads, shimano slx discs 180/160, cane creek short reach levers, jagwires road brake/shifter kit (I think its the best one). And these feel just as solid, has just as much power, just as slick action and just as good modulation as the megas. Maybe they don't feel exactly the same (but its really close if there is any difference at all) but the end result is just as good as one of the best hydros. If you know how to set up the bb7s and use good cables/wires and lube pivots and use good discs, then its the same crap.
Last time I used meachanical brakes was when the xtr v's was launched, (last thursday obviously) so my experience setting up mechs were not exactly fresh, but this isn't exactly rocket surgery were talking here.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

lonefrontranger said:


> and for the record I've ridden the "gold standard" Shimano XT brakes in 8ºF temperatures and had them completely lock up / pack up on me. Mineral oil is not the best fluid choice for extremely low temps as the viscosity goes thru the roof.


Its actually usually poblems with the seals in the calipers on shimanos, but the oil isn't exactly helping either. the seals needs to be extended fully and cleaned with booze like 2 times a year, no spares to be had for shimanos hydros either. Mine became completely (90%) unusable at -20C, so I ditched them and never looked back.

on monday it was -18C here when i rode to work and the bb7s worked totally flawless. these are idiot proof.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

car bone said:


> If you know how to set up the bb7s and use good cables/wires and lube pivots and use good discs, then its the same crap.


not even close and we're talking a SRAM professional CX pit wrench who works with very finicky riders, plus the pro wrench at my shop (BCS a top pro shop that specializes in CX builds and caters to several national champions). They used jagwire cables and the whole bit and the result is not even close to the SRAM hydros when they were working properly.

if you have not ridden a cyclocross bike equipped with SRAM hydros then I submit you have no basis for comparison. I have 2 mountain bikes now, have had dozens in the past and have ridden every hydraulic brake system known to man. A cyclocross drop bar bike is not a mountain bike and trust me on skinny tires in dicey conditions, modulation and feel is absolutely critical.

Despite that mine failed I still represent that the SRAM hydraulic road system was far and away the best CX braking system setup I have ever ridden and I've raced every cross bike configuration known to man since the early 90s, in MTB events, over 20 CX seasons, road races, gravel grinders, mud, ice, snow, rain and sub zero temperatures included.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

A brake is a brake, and thats it, nothing more to it, I judge a brake for its performance. I'm a "professional wrench" too, but i wrench hydraulic systems costing hundreds of thousands of dollars instead, and I have zero units not working 100% when I'm done wrenching. I'm also a machinist so I could easily build all this **** myself. I build my bikes from the ground up, for myself. 

The last working avid brake was the juicy 7, which was designed by formula.

I ride my bikes on the road, in all conditions, every day, and these days its mostly ice and snow. Modulation and feel is critical to me too, perhaps even more critical since my life depends on it, power is important too, very important. But power without control is useless and dangerous. At least my bb7s are just as good as my formulas in all aspects, and those are hard to beat. Yes the shimanos I had, had a (slightly) more smooth feel, but that was only because they ultimately lacked power. But then again I set up my bb7s myself since I don't exactly allow people to fiddle with my bikes, nor trust them doing their job right at all. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself. even bikes, especially bikes. imo. ymmv of course.

What I think is odd is that even when this product failed, its still regarded as a good product. Would it have had to explode and take someones eye out for it to be a bad product? I'm just not seeing how this can be regarded as anything but, well, not so good. but thats just me.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

car bone said:


> What I think is odd is that even when this product failed, its still regarded as a good product. Would it have had to explode and take someones eye out for it to be a bad product? I'm just not seeing how this can be regarded as anything but, well, not so good. but thats just me.


so from your sig line you're already coming at this thread from a point of contention so thing one: why would I assume that you're willing to meet me halfway on this discussion.

thing 2 over two dozen CX racers who rode the SRAM hydraulics (whether they had them fail or not) have said the same thing. For 'cross racing, the SRAM hydros were hands down the best braking system they had ever ridden.

Hydraulics are coming for 'cross and they are desperately needed. Cable discs just are not as powerful, the pads do not wear properly for 'cross racing conditions as they are not self-centering (the heavy mud / grit and super hard punchy repeated braking from 20mph to walking pace over and over and over again through the dozens of corners per lap will lead to pads failing within one lap as happened at Kentucky last year)

so again, I submit: if you have not ridden a cyclocross bike with the various brake systems in all conditions, you really don't have a basis for comparison. Note that this does not equal me saying "you don't know what you're talking about". You simply do not have the specific knowledge in this niche area to understand why cable brakes, and BB7 in specific, aren't well received in 'cross. They work fine as long as it's dry, which is 90% of the season in Colorado, but the minute our sandy, gritty clay gets wet they WILL fail due to pad wear, and rapidly at that.

and yes, compared to the SRAM hydros the BB7s feel like crap despite being readjusted and inspected for cable stretch.


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

How are people going with getting replacement mechanicals???

My bikes been at the shop since late Dec and every time I call it's *sram will get stock any day now*. Tempted to retrieve my bike and take the risk.

Melbourne, Australia.

Edit: Aww crap, dealer has removed hydro so no point retrieving bike as it's brakeless. Eta of replacements still unknown :madman:


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

My interim mechanical kit arrived at my LBS earlier this week. I may just keep riding my other bike and wait for the new hydros to come in a few months instead of rebuilding, stripping and rebuilding again.


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

Update: Still no sign of mechanicals... *maybe next week* is the current message from the distributor :-(


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## bikerboy85 (Mar 15, 2010)

Mine showed up at the LBS last week. BUT..... when they went to install them the brake cable isn't long enough to go through the Crux frame and does not reach the rear calliper. So now the LBS is trying to search for a tandem cable which is long enough... Not Happy


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## tapeworm (Nov 3, 2010)

I ended up buying a Crux Evo. I really like the bike but want to replace the Axis 2.0 wheels for something lighter. I would like clincher or tubeless. I would like to drop some weight of the wheelset. The Roval Rapide CLX 40 look incredible, but they have a pretty incredible price as well. Stan's Alpha 340 Disc seems like a pretty good option, and the price is right. What else is out there that you would recommend?


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Stan's Iron Cross.


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## tapeworm (Nov 3, 2010)

BluesDawg said:


> Stan's Iron Cross.


oops, sorry I wasn't specific enough. I am using this bike as a road bike and possibly cross. The Stans Iron Cross has a 45 psi limit on tire pressure....that puts it out of the running for me.


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

jmpow2 said:


> How are people going with getting replacement mechanicals???
> 
> My bikes been at the shop since late Dec and every time I call it's *sram will get stock any day now*. Tempted to retrieve my bike and take the risk.
> 
> ...


 Any updates? I have heard various horror stories from the UK/Australia on different boards as it sounds as though the SRAM distributorship is... not as efficient as it could be in those countries, perhaps.

Mine were replaced within an hour at 2014 US Cross Nats, but that's because SRAM took their entire team and a crapload of equipment and concentrated a great deal of effort into having as many done during that week as possible. And I only had them done because after six full months of flawless functionality, including 2 races in sub 10°F temperatures, the rear one finally failed on me mid-race. Which ultimately turned out to be no big deal as the course was so slow, muddy and technical for my field that it was faster to just run the really sketchy downhill offcamber (like, literally, I passed girls whilst running, it was insane) and otherwise we were going so slowly a back brake just wasn't even that necessary. Sure it would have been nice for it to have waited another 40 minutes not to fail, but oh, well. Our team mechanic took one look at the failed brake (lever to bar, no pressure) and marched me right over to the SRAM booth to drop off the bike. They literally turned it around and texted me it was done / ready to pick up before I finished my lunch.

For the record my husband is still riding his with no issues and he intends to wait until the new ones are released in April, so long as his hold out.

The BB7s are not horrible now that I'm used to them, but they are nothing like as nice as the hydros, and they're a whole lot more noisy and finicky with regard to having to constantly be readjusted. Oh and another thing - now that I've gotten used to those massive hoods, the regular Red / BB7 hoods feel nothing like as safe to haul on for leverage thru slop or descending securely, etc.


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## ghughes.hesinc (Jun 10, 2009)

May have been covered...but what's the rear spacing on the crux?


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

Last time I called my LBS was early Feb, around the 4th I think, and it was still words to the effect "distributor will have them any day now, so sorry, we recognise how frustrating this must be..."

I've still heard nothing, so I'm assuming I'm still without brakes. (I'm out of the country on holidays till next week, so haven't been pestering LBS. I'm back Wed 19th Feb and if I'm still off the road then ...well, I'm going to be rather upset 

In hindsight, I should have just kept riding the hydros...:-( In my wildest estimation I would have thought late January as the worst cast scenario...



lonefrontranger said:


> Any updates? I have heard various horror stories from the UK/Australia on different boards as it sounds as though the SRAM distributorship is... not as efficient as it could be in those countries, perhaps.
> 
> Mine were replaced within an hour at 2014 US Cross Nats, but that's because SRAM took their entire team and a crapload of equipment and concentrated a great deal of effort into having as many done during that week as possible. And I only had them done because after six full months of flawless functionality, including 2 races in sub 10°F temperatures, the rear one finally failed on me mid-race. Which ultimately turned out to be no big deal as the course was so slow, muddy and technical for my field that it was faster to just run the really sketchy downhill offcamber (like, literally, I passed girls whilst running, it was insane) and otherwise we were going so slowly a back brake just wasn't even that necessary. Sure it would have been nice for it to have waited another 40 minutes not to fail, but oh, well. Our team mechanic took one look at the failed brake (lever to bar, no pressure) and marched me right over to the SRAM booth to drop off the bike. They literally turned it around and texted me it was done / ready to pick up before I finished my lunch.
> 
> ...


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## sashax (Aug 5, 2005)

ghughes.hesinc said:


> May have been covered...but what's the rear spacing on the crux?


135.


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

Update:

19th Feb and still nothing has arrived at my LBS :madmax:

_Waiting on a call from LBS who are contacting the distributor now, though the distributor has always said "couple of days..." so will take the next estimate with more than a grain of salt!_

Coming up to 2 months off the road...



jmpow2 said:


> Last time I called my LBS was early Feb, around the 4th I think, and it was still words to the effect "distributor will have them any day now, so sorry, we recognise how frustrating this must be..."
> 
> I've still heard nothing, so I'm assuming I'm still without brakes. (I'm out of the country on holidays till next week, so haven't been pestering LBS. I'm back Wed 19th Feb and if I'm still off the road then ...well, I'm going to be rather upset
> 
> In hindsight, I should have just kept riding the hydros...:-( In my wildest estimation I would have thought late January as the worst cast scenario...


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

I wonder if there isn't anyone "inside" the industry here on MTBR (like, maybe on the SRAM forum) that you can contact to rant about this. SRAM is extremely good on customer service. From what I understand regarding their interactions here in North America, they do not want this kind of bad experience between them and the direct user. Please consider ratting out your distributor directly to SRAM. I don't have names here that can help you in AUS but perhaps you can go directly onto SRAM's website and contact them there. Believe me they want this solved quickly.

If it is a communications breakdown between your shop and the distributor, having the bigger boot from higher up can often break the logjam, whatever it is.

I've worked at shops. None of the shops I ever worked at would have tolerated this sort of interaction with a distributor - they would have gotten the mfgr. directly involved. (although, your shop bosses may vary.)

Good luck!


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

When the local distributor came back to me, via LBS, with a new estimate of *APRIL*, I emailed SRAM USA (...after calming down). They have asked me to get my LBS to contact SRAM USA directly - when the shop opens this morning I'll pass on the information. Lets see what happens...



lonefrontranger said:


> I wonder if there isn't anyone "inside" the industry here on MTBR (like, maybe on the SRAM forum) that you can contact to rant about this. SRAM is extremely good on customer service. From what I understand regarding their interactions here in North America, they do not want this kind of bad experience between them and the direct user. Please consider ratting out your distributor directly to SRAM. I don't have names here that can help you in AUS but perhaps you can go directly onto SRAM's website and contact them there. Believe me they want this solved quickly.
> 
> If it is a communications breakdown between your shop and the distributor, having the bigger boot from higher up can often break the logjam, whatever it is.
> 
> ...


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

I got my BB7 brakes and Force shifters installed last week and took the Crux out for a gravel ride Monday. Sure was fun to ride that sweet bike again. Everything worked flawlessly. I didn't really notice a lot of difference, but then I don't really use the brakes a lot on gravel rides. When I needed them, they worked. Maybe not quite as smooth as the hydros, but not bad.


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## jmpow2 (Oct 1, 2013)

Update (hey, it's cathartic):

Heard nothing from LBS and it's soon closing time so I called SRAM AUS myself (SRAM USA kindly gave me their number, they have been very responsive), bypassing the local distributor (which my LBS insists on going through still, reluctant to move further up the chain, they said they would eventually but I lost patience).

Long story short, SRAM AUS (got to bottom of issue in less than a minute, my name wasn't on their list!!!! A clear and obvious break down in communication) have parts, have had them for a month, and have couriered them to my LBS, so should be back on board in a couple of days

Fingers crossed 

Edit: less than 24 hours later and I've got bike back with new brakes :thumbsup:



jmpow2 said:


> When the local distributor came back to me, via LBS, with a new estimate of *APRIL*, I emailed SRAM USA (...after calming down). They have asked me to get my LBS to contact SRAM USA directly - when the shop opens this morning I'll pass on the information. Lets see what happens...


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

jmpow2 said:


> Update (hey, it's cathartic):
> 
> Heard nothing from LBS and it's soon closing time so I called SRAM AUS myself (SRAM USA kindly gave me their number, they have been very responsive), bypassing the local distributor (which my LBS insists on going through still, reluctant to move further up the chain, they said they would eventually but I lost patience).
> 
> ...


Dude AWESOME!!

lesson learned (like I said I'm an old shop rat / warranty warrior) never be afraid to ESCALATE, especially with a company as well regarded as SRAM in the customer service field. From my experience with SRAM, it is usually never directly their issue, it's always some kind of distributor / local breakdown, which it seems it was in your case.

edit - long story short this sort of frustrating interaction in the late 90s between my former shop and the US Colnago distributor is why they are no longer the US Colnago distributor...

Enjoy!!


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## thesilversurfer (Oct 25, 2011)

I pick up my 2014 Crux Elite Evo Disc this week and I've asked for the SRAM Hydros to be removed and replaced with Force and TRP HyRD's. I won't be putting the SRAM hydros on at all. In all I had a reduction in price that put the bike under $3000 here in Canada.

Force levers with TRP's are more than enough. I've been using SRAM red shifters for 4 years now and they have been brilliant. According to my bike shop, and they are one of the biggest in Canada, SRAM have no solution for this country to fix this issue. It's a shame they didn't do their homework on this product.


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## Snosaw (Jun 10, 2009)

I have a sizing question about the Crux...
Both the Tarmac and Roubaix fit me well in a 56. I assume that a Crux in a 56 would also work...or would most folks size down?
Thinking about mostly gravel road riding with some trail.
Thanks!


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## lonefrontranger (Jun 29, 2004)

Snosaw said:


> I have a sizing question about the Crux...
> Both the Tarmac and Roubaix fit me well in a 56. I assume that a Crux in a 56 would also work...or would most folks size down?
> Thinking about mostly gravel road riding with some trail.
> Thanks!


It should size out about the same. The reason you'd size down would be for serious high-level cross racing, mainly to have a bike that's more flickable with a lower front end. Doesn't sound like that's your focus. From what I can tell the Crux/Tarmac sizing is pretty similar with the usual geometry variances between competitive road and CX being that the Crux runs a tiny bit shorter in the TT / higher in the HT and the wheelbase is longer. With cross tires and a higher BB you'll feel a bit "taller" on the Crux than the Tarmac, would be my guess. I'm going to guess it'll feel very similar to your Roubaix fit-wise.


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## Snosaw (Jun 10, 2009)

Thanks! That is what I thought.


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

Snosaw said:


> I have a sizing question about the Crux...
> Both the Tarmac and Roubaix fit me well in a 56. I assume that a Crux in a 56 would also work...or would most folks size down?
> Thinking about mostly gravel road riding with some trail.
> Thanks!


I've ridden various 56cm Specialized bikes over the past 25 years, to include the Allez I just sold, the Roubaix I still have, and the 2 Crux I own. My only concession to 'cross sizing was to shorten the stem by 1cm and raise it 5mm. The only way I could get the reach to the bars correct on a 54 would be to add a crap load of spacers and use a 13cm stem. YMMV


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

I posted this elsewhere but how big of a tire can I get on my '14 Crux EVO Elite?

I am looking at Panracer Firecross tires or any recs for a tire to ride my local MTB trails


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

homebrewtim said:


> I posted this elsewhere but how big of a tire can I get on my '14 Crux EVO Elite?
> 
> I am looking at Panracer Firecross tires or any recs for a tire to ride my local MTB trails


40mm


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks. I read a review that they could take 45mm. I know they fit my 38mm Trigger Sports. It seemed like they had almost 50mm clearance. I'll keep looking for a good all condition 40mm tire.


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

You could easily fit a 50mm (2") in the front fork, but the chainstays are the limiting factor in the rear. 40mm Clement MSO on Stan's Iron Cross rims fit well, but there is little room for sticky mud and I wouldn't want to run anything wider back there.


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks. I am big guy (220#) and was thinking a bigger tire would be beneficial both on the trails and on a course. So far this past couple of weeks I've been riding Tracer Pro 33s and like them. But I really liked the Trigger Sport 38s I rode. I"ll keep to to 40 or less. I have OEM Axis 2.0 rim on the bike.


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks Blues. I am running PDX 33s now and think I am going to get some all-around/mud capable 40s as we head into Fall New England. 

Open to suggestions. Cheers!


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

Anybody use their Crux primarily as a road bike? I had a 2014 Crux Pro Race that I parted out for reasons I won't get into. I'm left with the frame/fork/hs/stem/BB/crankset/post/saddle. My plan was to just sell that and be done with it. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like this would be worth much at all on the market, so now I'm considering turning it into a full time road bike. Can get a decent deal on some Ultegra Di2 components and R785 hydros. No road racing for me...some fast group rides, some long days in the saddle, and usually on pretty crappy roads. I'm thinking this could make the perfect road bike for me, with some nice fat 28mm tubeless road tires. I remember the Velo review of this bike last year pretty much billed it as a Tarmac for the dirt. Just wondering if any of you have done this very thing, and what you think of it.


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

rwitte said:


> Anybody use their Crux primarily as a road bike? I had a 2014 Crux Pro Race that I parted out for reasons I won't get into. I'm left with the frame/fork/hs/stem/BB/crankset/post/saddle. My plan was to just sell that and be done with it. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like this would be worth much at all on the market, so now I'm considering turning it into a full time road bike. Can get a decent deal on some Ultegra Di2 components and R785 hydros. No road racing for me...some fast group rides, some long days in the saddle, and usually on pretty crappy roads. I'm thinking this could make the perfect road bike for me, with some nice fat 28mm tubeless road tires. I remember the Velo review of this bike last year pretty much billed it as a Tarmac for the dirt. Just wondering if any of you have done this very thing, and what you think of it.


I have a second wheelset ('13 Roubaix OEM rims and 25s or 28s on them..I'd have to double-check) and like road-riding it. With that said I came from a Sirrus Hybrid and the move the Crux and THEN road-tires was a dramatic change for me. I am riding a '14 Crux EVO Elite. I DO like that I have one bike for road and trails as I learn the skills needed for cyclocross.


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

mudge said:


> Kenda Happy Medium.
> 
> When they're available, I'll try out the Surly Knard in 700x41.


So did the Knards fit?


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## mudge (May 15, 2010)

homebrewtim said:


> So did the Knards fit?


great question... never got around to trying them.


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## homebrewtim (Sep 26, 2014)

Cool. My LBS really likes the tread on the MSOs. I am going to order a set and try using them as my primary off-road/cross tire this year. I am thinking they'll fit and he thinks the tread is aggressive enough. 

Thanks!


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## erickbrian (Jul 2, 2013)

Kris said:


> My buddy has a 2014 Crux with SRAM hydro disc brakes. His last two cyclocross races have been hurt by the rear wheel coming out of the dropout. I assume it's the force of the brakes pulling the wheel down, but it's strange as I've never seen this problem with disc brake mountain bikes. He's tried two different types of skewers with the same result. I suggest he try the DT Swiss ratcheting skewers to see if that would fix it.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem on these bikes?


I just bought a 2014 Crux Pro. Took it for a 2nd ride ever, wheel came out the drop out three times, twice while riding, hopping over rocks.

Any solutions? I'm guessing better QR skewers?


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## AKRC78 (Apr 17, 2011)

I have been riding and racing mine for 2 seasons now with no problems, and I ride it as my road bike in the summer too... I've run the axis2.0 wheels and the roval carbon wheels with the skewers that came with the wheel sets, never dropped a wheel.


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## erickbrian (Jul 2, 2013)

Gonna start looking for some new skewers then.


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## erichwic (Mar 3, 2004)

Old thread but wanted to see if I could resurrect it. Looking to get a E5 Crux frame but wanted to make sure a 40c tire worked. Any updates on this with photos?


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