# Niterider Trinewt



## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

I would like to try this night riding thing. I am thinking about getting this light...any suggestions or impressions?


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I like the light and the beam pattern. It's bright enough for trail use but it may be a bit heavy to mount on the helmet. A NR rep said it was "around 200 grams or a bit more" so that would be too much for me on the helmet. It looks like a great beam pattern though and a worthy light even at the slightly lower end of the brightness scale. I would generally not consider a 486 Lumen light or one from NR but the beam pattern is much better than some of the others and I would use it.


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## ovlovder (Oct 23, 2007)

Id agree that 200+ grams is too heavy for helmet use. you would be fighting to keep your helmet in place all the time....


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## mtbvampire (Oct 25, 2004)

I found this if it helps...

http://eddys.com/page.cfm?pageID=493

To me it looks as bright or brighter than the HID above it.

I agree too, the weight could be a problem. It won't change my mind though, I'm still planning on buying one.

Good Luck and keep us posted!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Here is a test and some beamshots done by James at gearreview:

http://acidinmylegs.blogspot.com/search/label/lights

Scroll down after getting there.


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

ovlovder said:


> Id agree that 200+ grams is too heavy for helmet use. you would be fighting to keep your helmet in place all the time....


so i guess the next question will be...any suggestions for a good helmet light? LED or HID preferred...looking in the $350-450 range. thanks!!!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

HID- Light & Motion ARC (the couple of in-stock ones I have seen are very well discounted)

LEDs:

Dinotte 600L ($400/600Lumens)
Nightlightning iBlaast ($300-$450 depending on battery/720 Lumens)
Niteflux Photon (Under $400/720 Lumens)

All three are awesome LEDs and the best in the $350-$450 price range.


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## fishbum (Aug 8, 2007)

Ok, So I just received my Trinewt and did my first ride with it last night: Awesome.

I did notice the weight was more than I'm used to, but the mount was far enough back so it was on top of my head when I'm in a riding position, so I never noticed the weight.

I'm used to a 15W halogen (old) that mounted more forward on the helmet and that one made my neck ache... The Trinewt, although heavier, didn't cause that.

I don't know about you, but my helmet is adjusted so it doesn't move around on my head, therefore no problem with helmet movement...


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

Congrats on the new light!

Now, just a plug for protecting your battery... check out: Improving the NR TriNewt Battery... Pics! 

The rubber side rolls better!
K'Tesh


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## Rouleur321 (Feb 27, 2004)

fishbum said:


> Ok, So I just received my Trinewt and did my first ride with it last night: Awesome.
> 
> I did notice the weight was more than I'm used to, but the mount was far enough back so it was on top of my head when I'm in a riding position, so I never noticed the weight.
> 
> ...


Got mine, too!

No rides till next week, but playing around with it in my office its bright as hell. Walked around blinding all my collegues for kicks. On blink mode, it turned my darned office into a discoteque. LOL.

The light definitely is heavy. Seems like it will be TOO heavy...but the way the mount is designed, its "balanced" right on top of your helmet, so Im thinking the weight wont be an issue. fishburn's inital ride seems to confirm this.


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## zDAP (Nov 5, 2007)

Well, I bought a Trinewt as soon as the local REI had one in stock -- got the demo model off the shelf in mid-September. So far, I've used the light on multiple night rides, mostly fire roads in the middle of pitch-black regional parks here in the East Bay.

I LOVE this light! Pattern is fantastic for night riding. The light up front, close to the bike is very bright, and the lamp also projects a LOT of light up ahead along the trail. Compared to my previous lamp (a NR dual classic pro 12V halogen), this light seems to be around 5 to 10 times as bright. Riding with my biking partner (who now uses the halogen), the old lamp seems dim and orange in comparison to the bright white of the Trinewt.

Haven't measured run time yet, but the lamp has easily gone 2 hours on full without the low battery indicator coming on. The battery is also MUCH lighter than the old NiMH water bottle pack from the previous lamp. 

Combined with a good helmet lamp (I use a Black Diamond Icon rechargeable 3W LED modified for helmet mounting), there is plenty of light on the trails!!!

On the paved bike paths (where we pass pedestrians), I've heard comments such as "Is that a car? It IS a car! No! It's a bike!", or "ouch, that hurts!" or "wow, thats an amazing light" from blinded pedestrians as we bike by. 

Lamp also seems very "robust" -- nice solid casing, good mount (velcro strap) for the battery, etc. Not a whole lot to complain about, and very much worth the expense in my opinion.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

I'm assuming since many are mentioning the weight, that they are not currently using a HID from Niterider? The Trinewt is a chunk lighter than it. I've been using a Flite HID for a few years, and a previous generation prior to that. I felt the weight, and didn't have any huge problem with that, so this should be a pleasant change. The mount for these was farther forward, so as to cause more downward drag, exacerbating the issue. I do have a problem with the new higher, "top of the head" mount though. It will help with balancing the light, but the designers obviously don't ride anywhere where there's trees. My old NiteHawk system had a top o the head mount, and it got "arboreally entangled" on several occaisions, and that, sucks. Light, light, light, light, WAH! NO FRIGGIN LIGHT, WTF????? I'm excited anyway, as I like the LED concept, longer burn. no expensive bulbs to replace, etc. Just thought I'd toss that out there and see what sticks!


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

Improving the NR TriNewt Battery... Pics!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/82WJuD

Improving your NiteRider TriNewt's Battery

First, let me say this... this is an AWESOME light... 486 lumens output with a 3hr 30 min run time on high, 7hr run time on low, and a flash feature.

IMHO, LED lights are going to rapidly replace the less reliable HID/halogen systems that are out there. They are as bright (if not brighter), they run longer, and the lamps are far more durable than HID lamps. In the long run, an HID will cost more than an LED system, just because the bulbs are vulnerable to damage or burning out (and they are not cheap to replace). There's a lot more that could be said, and perhaps that's for later. This is a HOW TO page, and you are not here to get a product review.

A little history is in order... I have several older halogen lights from NiteRider, and I really loved them; they managed to keep me rolling year round, but they had their issues. I'm sure that the LED systems will share some of these issues but likely not all.

One of my first NiteRider lights was the Classic Plus, and it was the light that I kept in reserve. Its run time was not all that I hoped for, but at the time it was the best available for the money. Its water bottle battery was both its strength and its weakness. My bikes have always had two water bottle cages, and I often used only one for beverages. The spare was where the Classic's battery ended up; it was out of the way and easy to access. However, design flaws, a wet winter or two in Oregon, and the times when the battery fell out of the cage during a ride caused its watertight seals to fail. Moisture made its way into the battery and corrosion destroyed the battery (which then destroyed the charger). My second Classic ended up with the same problem: moisture ruining the battery and the charger.

The Problem:

Frame-mount batteries are instantly recognizable as that, increasing the likelihood of theft. If you want to secure the battery, you have to take the battery with you every time you leave your bike in an uncontrolled area. These batteries are expensive and can be a pain to mount and remove. Depending on the routing of your bike's cables, locating a suitable mounting site can be difficult. Frequent removal of these batteries also increases the chance of damage.

NiteRider's existing water bottle battery design flaws are twofold: keeping water out and, failing that, getting water out. To keep water and contaminants out of a bottle, you put a cap on the outside, not the inside of the opening. Then, if the cap's seal fails, the water will still flow over the cap and away, not be wicked into the bottle by capillary action.

In the event water does manage to get inside your container, it is important to get it out before it can promote corrosion. The opaque, sealed bottle prevents visual and physical inspection, and the foam insulation will keep even a lot of water from audibly sloshing. The only way that I could have found the water without breaking the seal was to carefully weigh the bottle regularly. (Yeah, like that's gonna happen.)

The Solution:

Water bottle batteries are somewhat disguised, reducing a casual thief's chance of recognizing the battery. They can also add a level of shock protection in case of an accident or drop. Mounting one is simple, and the bottle is almost guaranteed to be out of the way. (I know that there are bikes out there that have geometries that won't allow for water bottles, so this isn't for them.)

The TriNewt frame-mount battery is well suited for converting to a water bottle battery; its switch is located on the same end of the battery as the plug's receptacle (as compared to the MiNewt, MiNewt X2, or the Sol variants, where the switch is located on the "top" of the battery, on the opposite side from the receptacle). Plugging it in and turning it on will be easy. The wireless TriNewt should be better, as you shouldn't have to open and close the lid to access the battery mounted power switch.

What you need to re-create my solution:

1 - clear Performance Team water bottle - 500ml
1 - clear Performance Little Wide Mouth bottle - 21oz.
16" - 3/4" wide nylon webbing
2 - 1" diameter split rings (as found on promotional key chains)
Large (toenail-sized) nail clippers
self-adhesive backed velcro
cigarette lighter

The following can be found at better hobby shops:

Gap-filling cyanoacrylate (CA) glue
Accelerator to instantly set cyanoacrylate glue
Hobby knife
Jeweler's saw

You might wonder, why the two water bottles.

The 500ml water bottle has too narrow a neck to allow the battery inside, but its lid is a perfect shape for allowing the lamp's power cord free movement without straining it. The lid, however, doesn't fit on the 21oz water bottle's threads.

The 21oz bottle was too short to hold the battery without completely removing the top of the lid, but it's neck is wide enough to fit the battery with a little effort. Performance's WideMouth 24oz. water bottle was too big to fit in my bike's frame, and if the battery dropped past the narrowest part of the neck, it would be difficult to extract the battery without destroying the bottle. I chose the clear bottle so I could see if any water had made it inside without having to open it.

The best solution that I could find, was somehow to get the 500ml lid to fit on the 21oz's bottle. I determined that with some cutting and CA glue, the 21oz's lid would fit inside of the 500ml's lid, and thus my plans were made.

I started the conversion by first working on the 500ml lid. I removed the rubber stopper from the lid and kept so I could later use it to reduce the diameter of the hole in the lid that the power cord fits through. Next, the mount for the stopper was removed from the inside of the lid by first cutting the center ring out with the hobby knife, then by using the nail clipper to cut it flush with the inside of the lid. I then cleaned up the inside of the hole by using the hobby knife, and rounded the remaining sharp edges with the cigarette lighter.

Moving on to the 21oz bottle, I removed the stopper from the lid and discarded it. Then using the jeweler's saw, I opened up the lid by cutting the top off, stopping at the inner seal. I then cleaned up the edges with the hobby knife and cigarette lighter.

To join the lids together into one unit, I placed the remaining ring of threads from the 21oz bottle's lid inside the 500ml's lid then used the hobby knife to score a line inside the 500ml's lid as a guide to prevent myself from applying too much glue. Next, I scored the area inside the 500ml's lid to give the glue a better bonding surface. Careful not to glue my fingers to the lids, I applied the CA glue to the inside area of the 500ml's lid where it came in contact with the 21oz's lid. After I joining the two lids together, I created a bead of glue around the seams where the lids met. I used the accelerator to instantly cure the glue, thus preventing it from dripping and becoming another problem. To prevent any discoloration of the battery from curing CA glue fumes, do not use the lid for a few hours.

The resulting lid has a tall profile, allowing cable movement and secure attachment to the 21oz water bottle.

I next used the hobby knife to slit the 500ml's stopper down its length. This allows the power cord to be placed inside it. When using the battery, you can lock the stopper in place, and reduce the size of the hole that water can get inside the bottle.

WARNING: To prevent damage to the power cord, do not pull the power cord out of the lid with the stopper locked in place. Always remove the stopper first.

I am still trying to divise a method of completly sealing the battery inside the water bottle, but I haven't figured it out yet. (Perhaps by creating a short powercord to be locked into the lid... hmm). I'll work those problems out later.

To extract the battery, I used 3/4" nylon webbing to create a "leash" to pull the battery out of the water bottle. I simply cut and heat sealed the ends of the webbing to prevent unravelling. To save time and eliminate the need for sewing, I made a loop on each end by folding two inches over from each end, and then used the CA glue to create the loop. I used the split rings from two keychains to create a grip on the loops and to prevent the leash from pulling through without pulling the battery out. When not being used, the leash tucks out of the way into the water bottle, and a simple upside-down shake gets it out for use. Applying self-adhesive velcro on the bottom of the battery,(and a matching point on the leash) prevents the leash from slipping off when extracting the battery.

The resulting water bottle isn't waterproof, but it will prevent most water from hitting the battery. It will also add a level of shock resistance and in doing so should aid in keeping the battery in working shape for years.

Rubber side down
K'Tesh


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

what do you guys think of the light and motion stella l?


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

*Just got my Wireless TriNewt...*

Just got my Wireless TriNewt...

The battery was shipped flat, so it didn't even blink when I tested it in the bike shop.

System includes:
Wireless Remote
Wireless Mount, and Mounting Rings 
TriNewt Head
36" Extension cord
4 Hour Charger
Velcro Battery Strap
Helmet Mount
Handlebar Mount
Storage Pouch

1st impressions of the Wireless:
Phyically, it's identical to my TriNewt (yeah, I have one of them too). Same battery shape, size, 'cept the battery has "Wireless" printed on it, and there is small window next to the switch, I understand that it shows when it's getting a signal from the remote.

The remote's switch was a surprise! I *had* understood that there was a bike mountable switch *AND* a keychain fob (ie: two remotes included)... *WRONG!* The remote is a fob (w/o the keychain ring), the mount is similar to a large, oddly shaped, computer mount. So, I'm going to have problems in keeping with my desire to mount one of MiNewt X2s on the handlebar (battery set up so I can access it like a remote switch), and keeping the TriNewt's switch accessible (as an unpleasant surprise to motorists who can't seem to see 150 lumens). The mounting rings are identical to the MiNewt X2. Thank goodness I'm good with canibalizing... I'm going to have to make my own mount.

I'll admit, I'm a little nervous about the remote durability, I'm unsure about its water resistance.

I've already put the battery into my waterbottle modification to protect it.










Remarkably, the remote in the pic is nearly lifesized.

I'll keep y'all posted.
Rubberside rolls better
K'Tesh


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

K'Tesh said:


> Just got my Wireless TriNewt...
> 
> The battery was shipped flat, so it didn't even blink when I tested it in the bike shop.
> 
> ...


do you plan to mount it on the handlebar or on your helmet? id like to know how it feels on the helmet.


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

Handlebar... sorry, I'm concerned about the weight up there, and I'm also worried about being hung up by highbranchescatchemnholdem... aka, rider eating trees.


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

K'Tesh said:


> I'm also worried about being hung up by highbranchescatchemnholdem... aka, rider eating trees.


See? I'm not alone here, why did they change to this silly top 'o the head mounting???:madman: Then make it incompatible with my older, preferred mounting method, so I can't use it?? Like Niterider, love the light, don't like having my hand forced.


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## Superlight2003 (Sep 22, 2005)

*Trinewt Mounting Issue*

I just started a new thread about the horrible Trinewt mounting design.


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

K'Tesh said:


> Handlebar... sorry, I'm concerned about the weight up there, and I'm also worried about being hung up by highbranchescatchemnholdem... aka, rider eating trees.


is the weight really that much of an issue?


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

lonnie_20 said:


> is the weight really that much of an issue?


They do weigh enough to make your helmet drag down over your eyes, creating a need to run it tighter than you might otherwise. Also holding that extra weight up with your neck for hours, over bumps, can get fatigueing. (Wah wah wah...)


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

It is for me. If a light starts to get close to 200 grams, it's no good to me as a helmet-mounted light unles it lays flat like a BR2. Some can counter this by mounting the light further back but then it sticks out too high and becomes a snagging tool for branches. Also, when it gets really steep and rocky, the extra weight up top still moves the helmet forward due to all the jolting, especially if you have a light helmet.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

In my case, I have to run the helmet really tight and even then, a heavy light causes the helmet front to hit the top of my glasses. I wear prescription eyewear even at night obviously. It happens at the worst of times too (in the fast/rough stuff) and is very annoying. What worries me more is that if it moves around that easily, will it stay on in case of a crash?

It may not be as bad with heavier helmets or helmets like the Xen or Flux. I may try one of those since they seem to have more weight on the back of the head.


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

I haven't run with one on my helmet, I doubt that I will. The mount puts it very high on the helmet and I'm worried about catching it on a branch (it does form a hook shape). If it was capable of being mounted forward, I'm sure that it would pull the helmet down over my eyes, or cause fatigue.

That said, however, I've heard that up top, it is well balanced and comfortable. 

Guess it all depends on what kind of riding you do, and how comfortable you feel w/it up there.

Look out for motorists... they sure as Hell aren't looking for you.
K'Tesh


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

so it seems like if you are going to wear a helmet light it is better to have one that is light enough to wear more towards the front of the helmet...any good suggestions for this type of light?


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## MendonCycleSmith (Feb 10, 2005)

lonnie_20 said:


> so it seems like if you are going to wear a helmet light it is better to have one that is light enough to wear more towards the front of the helmet...any good suggestions for this type of light?


Plenty of them mount lower, but not too many that I know of have the punch of a HID, which are heavier, so we start chasing our tail.....:madman:


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

The Wilma is light (~125) and I think the Blaast/iBlaast is light too. As far as HIDs go, the ARC weighs around 170 and it isn't too bad but it's close to my max on the helmet.

I think several of the other LEDs are pretty light as well. The Trinewt seems to be one of the heaviest units.


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

is there a big difference between the stella 180 L and the 180 N?


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

The MiNewt X2 is what I'm currently using for my helmet light... (and a 2nd as backup on the handlebar).


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## onespeedfreak (Sep 30, 2006)

so, what is the weight difference between the MiNewt X2 and TriNewt head units? i have only seen a total system weight for both but i imagine the TriNewt's heavier weight is from the larger battery. is this true?


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## lonnie_20 (Mar 13, 2007)

K'Tesh said:


> The MiNewt X2 is what I'm currently using for my helmet light... (and a 2nd as backup on the handlebar).


do you think that the minewt x2 is enough light for a helmet light only(no other light)?


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

lonnie_20 said:


> do you think that the minewt x2 is enough light for a helmet light only(no other light)?


Until it can vaporize cars... No light will be enough for any kind of light.

As so far as the X2 goes, it's bright, it has a good selection of lighting options (though, I'd kind of like a slower flash), and it has a nice long run time on a charge. As a solo helmet light, I'd say it's very good.. BUT, I don't believe in putting all my eggs in one basket. I have at any one time up to three backup systems (all on handlebars, but two can be attached to the helmet in a pinch w/o additional mounts). I'm not worried about trail failures, I'm worried about battery/cord/charger problems. I will always have a standard battery powered light.. if all rechargable batteries are disabled, I can always find AA or AAA batteries at a local 7eleven or gas station... NR batteries are a little harder to come by in a pinch.

Rubber Side down.
K'Tesh


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

Total system weights were provided by NR's customer support. They didn't have the compontent weights.

So much for formatting...

NR TriNewt NR MiNewt X2 NR MiNewt X2 Dual
weight 
total 519grams 232grams 317grams
head 224grams 85grams 170grams

Lumens 486 150 300

Run time
Hi 3:30hrs 3:30hrs 1:45hrs
Lo 7hrs 7hrs 3:30hrs

MSRP $399.99 $179.99 $189.99

Warranty varies by component Lifetime warranty on all mechanical components. 2 yr on headlamp, power module (excluding degradaton of the battery cells) and AC Adapter 180 days on rechargeable batteries


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I asked a NR rep and all he could say was that it's basically somewhere over 200 grams. Yeah, that was really helpful!


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## onespeedfreak (Sep 30, 2006)

just wondering with all the talk of the TriNewt being too heavy for a helmet mount. I am looking to get a new helmet light and was leaning to the trinewt but now... X2 maybe? i'm definitely looking to get an LED because the HID bulbs don't fair to well to abuse from my experience.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I like light helmet lights. Have you considered the Wilma at 125 grams or maybe the Dinotte 600L? The 600L may be around 160-175 grams but I can hardly feel the Wilma on there. They are both brighter than the Trinewt.


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## fishbum (Aug 8, 2007)

Jeez guys - the difference between 170 and 200 grams is only one ounce.

At least that's the conversion I remember from my "college days"...


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Not sure you understand. For me, I can really start to feel it at 170. Any more and it will be a big problem. They sit high on the helmet and helmets sometimes weigh less than a lb. 125 grams is very nice- when you add momentum to a 200 gram plus light, it feels like the helmet will fall off your head. So yeah, it makes a huge difference unlike when you mount it on the bar.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

*Wilma weight?*



Flyer said:


> I like light helmet lights. Have you considered the Wilma at 125 grams or maybe the Dinotte 600L? The 600L may be around 160-175 grams but I can hardly feel the Wilma on there. They are both brighter than the Trinewt.


So the weight of the actual weight is 125 grams, whereas the light and battery weight is the weight listed on company webiste (Wilma 4 @ 350 grams, Wilma 6 @ 460 grams)

I don't have one of these lights but would really like one, however, the price is too much for my pocket book. From all accounts I have read on this light it is quite amaizing, but with such an expensive price tag, the best rating I could give this is good.


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## fishbum (Aug 8, 2007)

Ok, I hear ya.
My helmet fits nice and snug with no movement, so the Trinewt is not an issue for me. I know alot of people ride with sloppy helmet adjustment (which isn't a good idea).
And I'm a big guy so the weight of it doesn't bother me.
Yes, branches could be an issue I'll pay attention to. Maybe it's time for a custom mount!


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I wear a pretty light helmet but I'm thinking about getting a Flux or Xen with more wight at the back. With that type of helmet, the weight will be more manageable. It's usually when I hit a rocky DH- all that bouncing and jolting on a steep section makes the helmet move forward and downward. It's when I need my vision the most. I can tighten it till my head hurts too but it doesn't help that much when I hit the steep and/or rocky stuff fast.

200 grams may not be a problem for some so take my opinion one that is specific to a XC-ish helmet and some steep trails. If you have few low-hanging trees, mount it further back to stop the weight from dragging the helmet down.


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

*Got 'em*

Got 'em


K'Tesh said:


> NR TriNewt NR MiNewt X2 NR MiNewt X2 Dual
> weight
> total 519grams 232grams 317grams
> head 224grams 85grams 170grams


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## K'Tesh (Sep 20, 2007)

*My solution to my Wireless mounting problem..*

If you were to look at my handlebars, you would find:
Bar Extenders
Grips
Brakes and Shifting levers
Stem

Right to left:
NR MiNewt X2 battery
NR MiNewt X2 head
Cateye Mity 8
NR 6V NIMH Smart battery (on the stem, powers the NR Tailight and reserve Evolution Smart) w/a Sharpie Marker (for recording license plates)
TriNewt Head
Cateye EL400
NR Universal Handlebar Mount (and a REI thermometer/compass keychain fob)
IncrediBell

Now, I want to mount a NR Wireless TriNewt's remote? W/O using a bar extender? I'm out of space... (almost).

(Pics Pending)

I took an old reflector's mount and put it between my left shift lever and the bell. I used a a small portion of a chopstick and attached it to the underside (using the band from Wireless's fob mount), to hold the mount to the old reflector's mount. I had to drill a small hole in the underside of the NR mount to accomidate a bolt from the reflector (this also prevents the mount from slipping off). A little bluetack poster adhesive will add a measure of extra protection.

Attach the NR Wireless fob... and I'm off..

Rubberside Down
K'Tesh

BTW: My bike is a tank! It weighs in at 45lb


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

225, huh? It ain't going on my head unless I get a different helmet. Well, it probably will not anyway since I'm doing the Betty/Wilma combo but I am really looking forward to seeing one in action.

Man, I am getting so hooked on night riding.


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## fishbum (Aug 8, 2007)

:thumbsup: I'm sporting a Xen


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

That makes sense. A helmet like the Xen and Flux is a bit heavier and has more weight near the back of the head. It is more stable and can handle a heavier light.

Good helmet too. I need one of those but I don't know yet if my glasses will fit since they go past the top of the ear and not curl around the ear.


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## onespeedfreak (Sep 30, 2006)

Flyer said:


> I like light helmet lights. Have you considered the Wilma at 125 grams or maybe the Dinotte 600L? The 600L may be around 160-175 grams but I can hardly feel the Wilma on there. They are both brighter than the Trinewt.


i just checked out the dinotte website and their prices are pretty good considering they come with two batteries. are these a decent quality light, both construction and beam pattern?


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

onespeedfreak said:


> i just checked out the dinotte website and their prices are pretty good considering they come with two batteries. are these a decent quality light, both construction and beam pattern?


Yeah, they do appear to be good quality. The beam pattern looks nice though I have not used one myself. I was thinking about buying one or two at one point but then I got swayed to the Lupines.

I think for upgrades, you may have to send them back to the factory so time and shipping costs factor in but they look to be of good quality and beam pattern.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Watch for Lupine's future offerings. However, the price for the Wilma and Betty is high when compared to prices from others. If you actually handle and see the lights, you may see why. The quality and attention to detail is typical German- very high quality and a very well thought out design in every aspect. I sometimes like to buy the best and even though I know it is a lot of money, I justified it by knowing I had the best, it should last a very long time, and I can upgrade them (DIY) as Lupine upgrades LEDs or other parts. I usually buy the best when it has any bearing on safety- lights, tents, car tires, bike tires, handlebars, sleeping bags, cold weather gear, etc. I figured Lupine was probably the best given their track record of lights, batteries, and chargers.

The quality of light produced is also very good with a very even beam. Unlike some pictures, I don't really see a reflective hot spot in the beam. I think light manufacturers are realizing that an even beam (like a good car headlight) makes way more sense over a bouncing orb of bright light that is more distracting than anything else. I'm not sure if they do this by using some diffusing technique or what. Watch the new lights coming out- they will attempt to do this as well.


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## radirpok (Feb 1, 2006)

onespeedfreak said:


> i just checked out the dinotte website and their prices are pretty good considering they come with two batteries. are these a decent quality light, both construction and beam pattern?


Well, yes, the 600L is probably one of the heaviest units on the market - around 200g or so. However they make up for it in toughness and sturdyness, you can practically roll a truck over the lamp body and it wouldn't mind. I'm sure it would survive a nuclear war ;-] Also, it doesn't get hot in normal use, only mildly warm - this is a good sign for future upgradeability. I have a feeling that the whole thing is overbuilt, which is something I like, because I'm not very nice to the things I use. One reason for not buying the Lupine (apart from the price) was that I wouldn't use it anyway because I'd be afraid not to damage it. Not so with the 600L.
A single 600L - IMHO - is not sufficient for proper lighting, but i'm sure two of them - one on the helmet and another on the bars - can do it. If you don't want to go DIY and live in the US, Dinotte offers a great price/performance ratio.


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## ssuperlight (Jan 4, 2006)

I've been running running a dinotte 200l on my helmet (this only weighs 85 grams) as well as a 200l on the bars and these are great lights. For around $300 you can't beat this combo. Dinotte really makes some nice stuff. I haven't seen the 600l in action but for $399/shipped it comes with two lion batteries. But for a helmet mount the 200l is the way to go.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

well... I just ordered a triNewt to go with my ARC.... I guess the ARC will stay on the helmet and the triNewt will go on the bars...


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## chadfbrown (Apr 9, 2007)

crisillo said:


> well... I just ordered a triNewt to go with my ARC.... I guess the ARC will stay on the helmet and the triNewt will go on the bars...


I have the same setup (just the dual though) and love it.... doing the 2HOTOP solo in 3 weeks with said setup.


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chadfbrown said:


> I have the same setup (just the dual though) and love it.... doing the 2HOTOP solo in 3 weeks with said setup.


cool..... do you notice much difference in the color/tone of the lights?


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## chadfbrown (Apr 9, 2007)

Nope... I think it is a little too bright, but I reckon after 12 hours on the bike I am going to need all the light I can get. I have tested it on several night rides and have not had a problem with the tones (newt is a tad bit more blueish).


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## crisillo (Jul 3, 2004)

chadfbrown said:


> Nope... I think it is a little too bright, but I reckon after 12 hours on the bike I am going to need all the light I can get. I have tested it on several night rides and have not had a problem with the tones (newt is a tad bit more blueish).


cool... thanks!

can't wait to get it then


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