# Need help to decide which torque wrench



## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

I thought i'll stop avoiding getting a torque wrench and start looking around for one. I've found two of similar and reasonable price and would like opinions on which i should get as i do not know much about torque wrenches and how quality of the tool is determined. The choices are as follows:

Kincrome Micrometer Torque Wrench
http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogue/search/product_display.php?partnumber=MTW200I

BBB BTL-52 TorqueFix
http://www.bbbparts.com/products/accessories/tools/btl52.html


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

The BBB is a total POS when you're looking for torque values around 4-6 n/m. Personally I prefer the beam style. Cheap ratchet style ones just don't seem to be all that accurate. A cheap torque wrench can be worse than no torque wrench at all, and yes I recommend that anyone who's serious about working on their bike own a torque wrench.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

How does one tell if a wrench is cheap quality when looking for one?


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

peternguyen said:


> How does one tell if a wrench is cheap quality when looking for one?


That's the problem, you can't. This is why going with a respected tool maker is the best bet.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

I own a small fortune in torque wrenches. The one I like to use on my bikes is a Cornwell inch pound wrench with a dial gauge on it. It's the kind you would use to measure drag on a pinion bearing or something equally critical. I think it was 140 dollars. 
I wouldn't use a click type on a bike. If you can't find an affordable dial, a beam would probably be best. Park has one.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Hmm, i always had the impression that the beam styles were often unreliable. I would have gotten the park tool beam wrench, but i opted for the click styles because ones i found came in the torque ranges of 20-250 inch/lb - perfect for bike mechanics, and more preferable than buying two separate wrenches from park tools - i think park tools are unreasonably pricey.

By the way, any comments on my first choice of torque wrenches (alternative one to the BBB wrench)?


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

My replies to those wrenches are textbook Snap on junkie. I wouldn't buy em.


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## KINBOY (May 23, 2004)

I know up here you can get a not too bad beam style for under $20 at Canadian tire.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/p...older_id=1408474396672989&bmUID=1225812053598

KIN


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## spepic (Oct 28, 2006)

Park will soon be releasing two click type torque wrench, one appears to be the mythical 3/8 drive in in/# in a bicycle friendly range xx-600 in/#. I'd hold off as park seems to hit the mark when it comes to this stuff. Personally if I get a tool, I don't want to be converting unitsl every time I use it. Others milage may vary....


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

I have a budget clicker for low-torque stuff (Sears Craftsman twistie-handle type) and a Snap-On TQFR50 for the high-torque stuff. In all honesty, having wrenched since 1989, I think it's possible to get carried away with trying to torque things "just so," because sometimes doing it "just so" will result in stuff coming loose (or shearing in half) in real life.

In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they're not


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

What would be the range of torques required on a bike? Like, would it be about 40 inch/lb to...? The new park tool torque wrench looks interesting but it has a range of 26-132 inch/lb of torque. Their bigger one goes up to higher values, but i'd prefer to purchase just one torque wrench which i think would be adequate for home use.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

This one goes to 150 in lbs.

http://www.cornwelltools.com/onlinecatalog2008/page90.html


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## spepic (Oct 28, 2006)

peternguyen said:


> What would be the range of torques required on a bike? Like, would it be about 40 inch/lb to...? The new park tool torque wrench looks interesting but it has a range of 26-132 inch/lb of torque. Their bigger one goes up to higher values, but i'd prefer to purchase just one torque wrench which i think would be adequate for home use.


I read some where, probably here, that there are technical accuracy reasons against a one torque wrench does all. They are more accurate in the middle of their ranges. the wider the ranges, the more inaccurate at their high and low limits.

The bike range has to do with cranks mostly, having a wrench that can get up to the torque range for cranks, but is still in in/#'s. At least to me; I don't want to spend money on a tool I have to always convert units on.

New wrenches aside, the basic park 3/8" torque wrench seems to be one of the best deals out there for a beam wrench. Just because of it's range and the units it's in. It is very reasonably priced, especially on the internet and ebay. You can get a more expensive click type, but it will be lacking in range or be in ft/# not in/# units.

It will be nice to finally have a click type torque wrench in in/#'s and useful for things like cranks. It might even keep this question from coming all the time....


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

peternguyen said:


> By the way, any comments on my first choice of torque wrenches (alternative one to the BBB wrench)?


A while back, I bought one that looks identical to it. Piece of crap. I recommend the park beam style if you are on a budget. I own both sizes, as well as a larger clicker type for automotive use. One of the downsides of the clickers is that they are supposed to be checked for correct calibration from time to time and adjusted as necessary.


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## wvmtb (Jan 16, 2004)

I have a cheaper beam type but was thinking of getting a click type. Thinking it might be better for the smaller increments. But after seeing this thread I question my thoughts. Maybe I should stick with the beam. But of course it doesn't do well in the smaller increments due to the broad range on the scale. So after looking here maybe I should get the PW-1 to take care of those smaller in lbs.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

spepic said:


> I read some where, probably here, that there are technical accuracy reasons against a one torque wrench does all. They are more accurate in the middle of their ranges. the wider the ranges, the more inaccurate at their high and low limits.


This makes sense. I think i will reconsider my options and either wait for park tools click type or purchase their beam type (depending on how much their click type is/will be and if its good as expected). Anyone know more information about the availability of the park tools click type or has even used it?


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

i bought a giustaforza torque wrench fromm aspire velotech. it is expensive but after buying 2 or 3 midpriced models that ended up being pieces of $hit i decided to bite the bullet and get one of these. they are bike specific, come with the most common bits you need and are incredibly accurate. their range is designed around small bike sized bolts. i use my midpriced ones for larger bolts like crank bolts as it is most accurate at higher settings.
http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merch...PROD&Product_Code=EMGF216&Category_Code=Tools


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

I have recently bought the Thomson elite stem and i've read torque wrench is a must for it, so i think this would be a good time to make a decision.

I'm disregarding the BBB torque wrench, but i am still considering the Kincrome one, probably even close to buying it as i really don't have that much to choose from for my budget. As themanmonkey said, going for a respected company would be the best bet to 'guess' the quality without using it before buying it, and with the Kincrome, or at least in Australia, they are considered to be a top brand. There are more expensive ones available (from that brand and of course others), but i don't know if basic home bike maintenance justifies getting a really expensive one, and i can safely say i would rarely use it.

I tried finding as much info on that wrench as possible. The manual states its certified to be accurate to -+4%, and the wrench plus the bit set will cost me about 110 AUD (perhaps that can indicate the level of quality). Opinions?


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

gets my vote

1/4" Drive Dial Torque Wrenches
Accuracy of +/-4% of indicated value (20-100% of full range)
• Provides precise readings in both clockwise and counterclockwise operation
Over-size dial
• Permits easier reading, even from an angle
Dual scale dial
• Quick, easy torque readings in either English or Metric values
Memory needle dial (all wrenches through 600 ft/lb)
• Memory needle remains at the highest torque value attained
• Allows for positive verification of torque applied, valuable to determine breakaway torque
Electric light signal (models 64-458, 64-502, 64-505)
• Signal pointer can be set to a desired torque value. When pointer needle reaches the preset torque value, the light is illuminated and a buzzer sounds.
Product Number Primary Scale-Range Primary Scale- Incr. Secondary Scale-Range Secondary Scale-Incr. Length Inches Weight Lbs.
64-302 0-75 In/Lb 1 In/Lb 0-9 Nm 0.2 10 1.75

https://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/products.jsp?groupID=919

available here:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/2776
(scroll to the bottom) - P/N 5718A43
$135 USD comes with calibration certificate. 
Made in USA

Way better buy than your low end bicycle rebranded made in China Torque Wrenches.


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## lazybeaner (Sep 28, 2006)

Cheers! said:


> gets my vote
> 
> http://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/products.jsp?groupID=919
> 
> ...


Ill second that choice. while i have never used that torque wrench, i do have several Armstrong wrenches and they are made to last a life time +.


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## forceyoda (Nov 12, 2005)

I have an armstrong click style 1/4 torque wrench that is a real pleasure to use. Got it new on Ebay for $60. What ever you choose I would stay away from cheap no name torque wrenches, they do not keep their calibration at all and most calibration companies won't work on them.


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I'm a big Armstrong and Snap On fan, moving into Hazet now. I would really recommend simply getting a CM beam type, if you're on a budget. The beams are very accurate and inexpensive, and you don't run as much a risk from snapping small bolts, like with Click torque wrenches.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Hmm, that Armstrong one looks like serious stuff, but i'm afraid it is out of my budget.

Well, i haven't seen any beam type wrenches except for park tools, but i honestly think park tools are a rip off anyway, that's why i'm reluctant to get it. I'll ask my LBS if they can and how much they can get the park tool beam wrench for me, and if the price is alright then i'll get that instead, since you all say it's more accurate.


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## tojnom (Feb 2, 2008)

*Unior torque wrenches*

I have 2 click type torque wrenches from Unior - 1/4" 2-24nm (17-212 Inch Pounds) and 3/8" 5-110nm, (44-974 Inch Pounds). They're not a very popular brand but they do what they're supposed to.

Product info:
http://www.uniortools.com/cgi-bin/cms.cgi?doc=10790&cat=2451&sid=MVM9ovAXw6LQCnz1.

http://www.uniortools.com/cgi-bin/cms.cgi?doc=10780&prod=15777&sid=MVM9ovAXw6LQCnz1

Retail:
http://cbuscycle.com/shop/TORQUE_WRENCHES_63823.aspx


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## forceyoda (Nov 12, 2005)

peternguyen said:


> Hmm, that Armstrong one looks like serious stuff, but i'm afraid it is out of my budget.
> 
> Well, i haven't seen any beam type wrenches except for park tools, but i honestly think park tools are a rip off anyway, that's why i'm reluctant to get it. I'll ask my LBS if they can and how much they can get the park tool beam wrench for me, and if the price is alright then i'll get that instead, since you all say it's more accurate.


Not more accurate but more durable and does not lose calibration over time. The armstrong dial would be one the most accurate options discussed here.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

forceyoda said:


> Not more accurate but more durable and does not lose calibration over time. The armstrong dial would be one the most accurate options discussed here.


Hmm, could you please confirm, lose calibration over time or over continuous use? Because if its the later, and the click type is just as accurate then i'd rather get that, because i seriously wouldn't use it that much, maybe a few times a year.


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## Cheers! (Jun 26, 2006)

problem with click type is the click. 

You as a user waits to hear/feel the click. So you keep on winding the bolt up. The torque wrench itself will not deflect or flex. So you have trouble really knowing how much force you are exerting to turn the fastener as a click type torque wrench is 2 to 3 times longer than an allen key. So you sit there waiting for a click, and if the torque wrench doesn't click what happens? 

If you are lucky you snap the bolt head right off. If you are unlucky you watch an expensive carbon fiber handle bar or seatpost get crushed, or you strip the thread off the expensive stem, or you watch your stem split in two as the aluminum fails. 

That is why dial torque wrenches are better. You can watch the running torque, as well as watch the torque build up to your desired final torque, rather than waiting for a click that may never happen.

Lastly... all measuring tools need to be calibrated, irregardless if it has an indicator dial or not. Vernier calipers, micrometers, torque wrenches, rules, scales etc... all need to be calibrated. Else how do you know what you are measuring or evaluating is truly the correct value?


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

Hmm, maybe i should save up and get a digital torque wrench. No one seems to like the click type haha.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Just make sure the Kingchrome (or whatever you select) can be used with left hand threads. One I bought & returned a few years ago couldn't be reversed.

Tim


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Click type wrenches are great for bigger automotive and industrial stuff. Dial type or beam type is what you need for bicycles.


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## forceyoda (Nov 12, 2005)

More from continuous use. Click type wrenches use a clutch system that usaly is made of a ball detent and spring. The "click" occures when enough force is used to dislodge the detent. With continued use or improper storage the detent can wear out or the spring can stretch causing a loss of calibration.


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## forceyoda (Nov 12, 2005)

I found this from a professional torque calibration co site teamtorque.com:
"Torque Wrench Information 
All torque wrenches fall into different categories based upon our experience and that of the manufacturer. The actual click from a torque wrench is considered a "cycle"
of that wrench. Most manufacturers recommend basic calibration after 8000 to 12000 cycles. 
For most customers, this means calibration every 8 to12 months"

I doubt I will put 8000 cycles on my click style torque wrench during my life time.


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

peternguyen said:


> Hmm, could you please confirm, lose calibration over time or over continuous use? Because if its the later, and the click type is just as accurate then i'd rather get that, because i seriously wouldn't use it that much, maybe a few times a year.


So are you saying that you still haven't bought one after 4 months of discussing this? I'm all for checking out for a quality product before purchase, but this is getting ridiculous. You're not going to know what works best for you until you actually buy something. Start with a beam style because they're inexpensive, relatively accurate, and easy to use. If you find that you need something fancier sell it and get a high-end click wrench.


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## Grey_Wolf (Dec 19, 2007)

themanmonkey said:


> So are you saying that you still haven't bought one after 4 months of discussing this? I'm all for checking out for a quality product before purchase, but this is getting ridiculous. You're not going to know what works best for you until you actually buy something. Start with a beam style because they're inexpensive, relatively accurate, and easy to use. If you find that you need something fancier sell it and get a high-end click wrench.


Haha yeah there was a gap in the middle where i kind of just moved on, but then after getting the thomson stem, that's what prompted me to come back and research.


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## mechBgon (Jan 28, 2007)

Wombat said:


> Just make sure the Kingchrome (or whatever you select) can be used with left hand threads. One I bought & returned a few years ago couldn't be reversed.
> 
> Tim


My Snap-On can't torque counterclockwise either, but the only situation where that would be a problem is the driveside BB cup, and that's easily solved by torquing from the opposite side of the bike, reaching the socket with a 6-inch extension through the BB shell.


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## jsk0703 (Feb 20, 2009)

Armstrong 1/4 beam torque wrench on Amazon $65.

http://www.amazon.com/Armstrong-0-60-Beam-Torq-Wr/dp/B000LG4R9S/ref=sr_1_137?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1235842529&sr=1-137


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