# My dual copperhead Cree



## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

Thanks to this forum for all the ideas and inspiration, I finally finished my own version of the copperhead light. I borrowed liberally from some of the designs here but added a few ideas of my own too. My build uses 2 Cree Q5's housed in separate copper tubes made from 3/4" endcaps sweated together using plumbing solder and a torch, connected via the Marwi mount that works on either the helmet or the handlebar.



















I'm using a buckpuck running full throttle at 1000mA to drive the LEDs and a 4-cell Li-Ion battery pack. So far, in the cooler weather, the heat dissipation is good. The copper tubes are warm but not hot. The separation between the tubes gives plenty of room for airflow. I plan to keep an eye on this as the weather warms up, and decrease the current from the buckpuck if necessary (the buckpuck I used has variable current output using external resistors).

For optics, I went with one Ledil LC1-SS & one LC1-M. The optics compliment each other nicely, giving a good combination of long throw with a decent amount of spill on to the sides of the trail. My tubes also have the ability to be aimed independently, so I have been aiming the spot further ahead of the wider beam pattern. These optics fit perfectly into the copper caps using the included holder, and are held in place with a bead of clear silicone. The front caps were cut down just a bit to match the optics.



















Here is a shot with the back end cap open. The buckpuck *just* barely fits into the tube. I actually had to file the edges just slightly to get it to fit. You can see how I made the endcaps, sweating a small piece of 3/4" copper pipe inside the endcap to give it just enough lip so it fits snugly into the main tube. You have to grip firmly and twist to remove the end caps, so they aren't going to just slide open accidentally.










I used an inline waterproof switch from batteryspace with the trailtech connector. This simplified the design quite a bit.

Comments, criticisms, and suggestions all welcome.


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## notenoughtime (Sep 7, 2004)

Nice setup. What diameter (inner) is the copper? I often wonder how much of the buckpuck can be shaved.


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## p97z (Dec 19, 2006)

Nice work! Did you dip the battery in Plasti-Kote?


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

notenoughtime said:


> Nice setup. What diameter (inner) is the copper? I often wonder how much of the buckpuck can be shaved.


The inner diameter of the 3/4" copper end caps is 22.2mm. The buckpuck is not actually a pure rectangle, rather the base of the puck is slightly larger then the top by a few mm. I only needed to shave a tiny bit of rubber from the two base edges.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

p97z said:


> Nice work! Did you dip the battery in Plasti-Kote?


Thanks. First I shrink wrapped the battery pack, then dipped in Plasti-Dip.


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

Looks good! i do like the independent beam adjustment! 
Do you have a link to the switch?
also the little bungs in the back that the cable passes through?
pleeease?
Thank you

SkUG


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

SkUG said:


> Looks good! i do like the independent beam adjustment!
> Do you have a link to the switch?
> also the little bungs in the back that the cable passes through?
> pleeease?
> ...


Thanks Skug. Here is a link to the batteryspace.com page that has this inline switch and all the trailtech mating connectors. They aren't the cheapest thing out there, but they are worth it IMHO. Very durable and waterproof. The switch also has a blue LED incorporated into the switch assembly, which is kind of useless but adds a bit of bling.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=1057

I don't recommend using the batteryspace coiled cord if you plan to mount it on your helmet. This coil has a very strong 'memory' and it tends to tug on the back of your helmet. I actually made another battery pack identical to this one with just the straight cord and it works great. The coil works fine on the bar keeping things tidy.

The rubber grommets are from Radio Shack. $1.99 for a bag of assorted sizes.


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## SkUG (Feb 19, 2008)

ok thanks, postage alone will make this far to expensive for my project (i'm in the UK)
Thanks anyways


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## GeeTeeOhh (Sep 19, 2006)

Very nice. Where did you get the handlebar mount and helmet mount? I am looking for something like that.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

GeeTeeOhh said:


> Very nice. Where did you get the handlebar mount and helmet mount? I am looking for something like that.


Hey GTO, I used the Marwi helmet and bar mounts. I found them at Jenson but they can be ordered from anyplace that buys from QBP.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/LS308Z04-Marwi+Nightpro+2002+Handlebar+Mount+Qr.aspx
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/LS400Z34-Nightpro+Helmet+Conversion+Kit.aspx


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## Hack On Wheels (Apr 29, 2006)

I love this light! Definitely one of the sharpest looking DIY setups I have seen. The mounting looks great and the independently adjustable beam angles are very nice too. Good job!


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## tomquas (Oct 27, 2007)

Hi MtbdawgJeff-

I really like your design, that is sweet little light. I really like that it:

1) Is "all copper" which has much better thermal conductivity than aluminum;
2) Is soldered together, I'd have to believe that is better than using AA expoxy;
3) Is comprised of readily available components (I know exactly where to get them!);
4) The through bolt is brilliant, it provides a mechanical connection to the mount, I can see that cinching down on the wing nut would give you a very stable platform; 
5) The inner sleeve using 3/4" tubing is a great design concept to provide a good friction fit but also allow the end cap to be removed. 

Your workmanship on the finished product is great, looks very professional especially the wiring and grommets. Nice work!!! 

I was in the middle of a design that was following the "copper" contagion using 3/4" Street Els but I'm going to have to re-think that now. I had already "shaved" a Buckpuck considerably more than you did. I have a couple of questions/ideas:

a) Is the front of each fixture two end caps soldered back to back? 

b) The right side fixture has a extra seam, looks like the front is a partial end-cap plus a 3/4" coupling? 

c) If you were concerned about the access end cap slipping off, you could tap a small diameter thread (say on the bottom) and install a small set screw.

d) I was thinking of soldering several copper washers behind the LEDs to provide additional heatsinking mass.

e) I was thinking of spray painting the final fixture with black high-heat Rustoleum, will that work on copper? 

Anyway, great job again!


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

Top work! 
Thats a great design, being able to point the spot higher than the flood makes the best use of the lumens.
Cooling will not be a problem.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

tomquas said:


> Hi MtbdawgJeff-
> 
> I really like your design, that is sweet little light. I really like that it:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words tomquas.

a) Yes exactly. I took two end caps, put a thin layer of solder paste between them, sandwiched them in a vice, and used a propane torch to solder them together using plumbing solder. Obviously, this was done before any electronics were installed. The bond is very strong and will not crack off like epoxy might. Plus, thermally, the solder flows between the two caps filling in the small air gaps and providing a good path for heat distribution.

b) Right again. The one tube needed to be slightly longer then the other one to accommodate the buckpuck. There is a small piece of standard copper pipe connecting the 2nd end cap to the coupler. You have to do this solder operation all at once - the front cap, 2nd short cap, small connector pipe, and coupler. Only the back end is left open. Again, use a vice to hold it while using the torch.

Note: If you are using a smaller driver (like from DX or Kaidomain) then you don't need to make one tube longer.

c) Thats a good idea. Right now you have to pull and twist the end caps pretty firmly to remove them but as they age that might change. If they ever get loose I'll use this idea.

d) Just be careful that you don't introduce any air gaps between the washers, otherwise they could do more harm then good. I'm not sure they are needed, since the copper distributes the heat very quickly and evenly to the whole case.

e) I'm sure Rustoleum would work on copper, but copper won't rust. Nor does the temperature get so hot as to need high-heat paint. It does get that weathered verdi green look after a while, which I actually think looks cool. But its a matter of opinion. Would the paint possibly diminish the heat transfer to the ambient environment? hmmm, not really sure. I like the 'raw' look and you can hit it with some copper polish every now and then to make it gleam like new.

One other thing... you can't see the lock washers I used on both sides of the bolt. They really hold the tubes in place exactly where you aim them. When I tried it without the lock washers, they would move slightly as the light was bumped around.


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## joraff (Feb 15, 2007)

I think one advantage to using AA epoxy over solder between the endcaps that house the LEDs and the rest of the body is that if you ever decide to upgrade the LEDs or one of them goes to crap for some reason, the epoxy will be MUCH easier to remove than the solder. 

Archeslot pointed this out somewhere in his copperhead thread.

I don't know how easily the plumbing solder will re-melt, but I imagine it's hot enough to damage the LED and maybe the buckpuck, and melt any wire housing that's touching the walls.

--------------

Also, how much did you have to cut off the end caps to get the LC1 + plexiglass (are you even using plexiglass?) to fit flush?


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## TrekJeff (Oct 12, 2006)

Well done. I've ventured back to the candle power forums myself and plan on going with the copper look. I just think it will look great on my Surly with the wooden fenders that I also make.
I'm looking at a triple cree XRE's, bFlex driver, the 14.8v 4000mha battery with the coiled cords. This will a primary handle bar mount. I just have to figure out how I want to assemble it and incorporate independent optic adjustments. It's going to be interesting.!!

But, well done. 
If anyone else is looking to run a bFlex, shoot me an PM. I'll probably have an extra driver..ordered two of the latest UI..the white ones.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

joraff said:


> I think one advantage to using AA epoxy over solder between the endcaps that house the LEDs and the rest of the body is that if you ever decide to upgrade the LEDs or one of them goes to crap for some reason, the epoxy will be MUCH easier to remove than the solder.
> 
> Archeslot pointed this out somewhere in his copperhead thread.
> 
> ...


I used thermal paste between my LED star and the inner copper cap rather then thermal epoxy, so the LED can be swapped out without separating the front copper cap from the rest of the assembly. The optics fit very snugly into the cap, so by bonding them down with silicone, the LED star is mated firmly to the inside of the copper cap. AA would obviously give a more fool-proof bond between the star and the copper, but the trade-off is flexibility to swap things out in the future.

I was originally planning to use plexiglass in front of the LC1's, but when I put everything together, I couldn't see what advantage I would gain by adding the plexiglass layer. It is just as watertight running a bead of silicone directly around the optics/holder IMO. So, I wound up cutting about 1/8" from the front caps to fit the optics right up to the edge. I just used a pipe cutter to trim them down.


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## xdtr22 (Nov 20, 2007)

I have been looking at building a light and this one seems pretty easy as far as the housing. Don't need any cnc machining or any special tools or a lot of fabrication like a lot of the set-ups need that I have found on here!!
Bravo on that!!
I have a couple questions though.
1. Is it possible to get part numbers and where you ordered the battery and charger, the cree's, and the lens? I looked on cre's sight but can't figure out which ones you used.
I found the links you provided on the mounts and the switch. 
I am new to this so I am a "DIY Light Virgin"!!!
Any help would be appreciated!!
Thanks!!


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

xdtr22 said:


> I have been looking at building a light and this one seems pretty easy as far as the housing. Don't need any cnc machining or any special tools or a lot of fabrication like a lot of the set-ups need that I have found on here!!
> Bravo on that!!
> I have a couple questions though.
> 1. Is it possible to get part numbers and where you ordered the battery and charger, the cree's, and the lens? I looked on cre's sight but can't figure out which ones you used.
> ...


I'm in the same boat as you... no access to machine shop equipment. So this housing can be built with pretty basic tools. Having some experience with copper pipe also helps. Files, hacksaw, pipe cutter, propane torch, plumber's solder & paste. All stuff that can be found at any hardware store.

I built my own battery pack from Li-Ion cells. But, if you're new to this, I would recommend buying a battery & smart charger. Something like this.
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4270
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2488

For cables, I used this for the light (with inline switch):
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3291

And this for the battery side:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3349

And you need this adapter cable to adapt the battery charger to the battery pack:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3356

The Trail-Tech connectors are sort of expensive so if you're trying to save some $$ there are other options. I think they are worth it but YMMV.

For lenses I went with optics made by Ledil. I got mine through a group buy over on the Candlepower forums. I used a LC1-SS and a LC1-M. You might consider just using 2 LC1-SS for more of a spot beam. These optics fit right into the copper caps using the included holder with no mods at all.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175502

You can also order the Cree LED's from that same group buy. Bram shipped everything out quick to the US and his prices are very reasonable. Group buys are first come, first served, so act fast if you decide to go that route.

Hope this helps!


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## xdtr22 (Nov 20, 2007)

That helps a lot!! Just wanted to make sure I get the right stuff and it all worked together so I don't waste money and time!
I plan on doing some ordering today and bought the copper supplies yesterday and Lowe's!!
Thanx again for the quick repsonce and the much needed info!!


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## tomquas (Oct 27, 2007)

The Marwi Helmet Mount is available for at the Jensen Outlet Store for $1.90 at https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ZZ297A59-Nightpro+Helmet+Conversion+Kit.aspx

The bar mount is too $5.76


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## xdtr22 (Nov 20, 2007)

Did you use the 3021 or the 3023 buckpuck?
Also how long is your run time about?
Got some of the stuff ordered today and got the housings made last night!!
I don't see the coiled cable on batteryspace website. Just the straight one.
I want both so I have options!!

Thanx again!!


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

Quick question for you - The bar mount you linked to looks to have an off-set mounting bracket, but the one in your pics looks directly on top of the clamp. Is this one and the same mount?


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

02Slayer said:


> Quick question for you - The bar mount you linked to looks to have an off-set mounting bracket, but the one in your pics looks directly on top of the clamp. Is this one and the same mount?


Thats right, I didn't use the offset mounting bracket that comes with the bar clamp. The helmet mount comes with a non-offset bracket that works on the bar mount too. To me, the offset bracket looked like it might snap when I crash.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

xdtr22 said:


> Did you use the 3021 or the 3023 buckpuck?
> Also how long is your run time about?
> Got some of the stuff ordered today and got the housings made last night!!
> I don't see the coiled cable on batteryspace website. Just the straight one.
> ...


Definitely use the 3023 (prewired) buckpuck. There is no room to solder wires to the leads on the 3021 and get it to fit inside the housing.

Here is the batteryspace page that shows all the TrailTech cable options.
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=1057


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

Thanks for the tip. I didn't pick up on that from looking at the pics on Jenson.
I'm a "when", not an "if" I crash type of rider too, so that is helpful. In fact, last night when I was trying to make an extra bar mount I had lying around work as a mount for my now finished light, the securing ring snapped when I tried to clamp it down, sending my light tumbling end over end through the air. It landing with a loud metal to metal clank on a heater grate across the room. Thankfully it fired right up when I powered it up. I guess it was a useful test of the duribility of the light itself, and an indication that a sturdy mount for the bars is in order. I would never have had the balls to throw the thing down on the ground just to test it, let alone onto metal, but its good to know it can take it. Phew!! I hate to think what would have happened to an HID if it hit as hard as my little "tank" light. Yet another reason to go LED!!


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## Zero_Enigma (Dec 14, 2006)

Nice setup.

You might want to look into http://images.google.com/images?sou...-39,WZPA:en&q=motor+heatsink&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi and find two good looking compact heatsinks and AAA that sink onto the copper before you paint it. That way you get better heat dumping when the weather warms up. Gives it a retro 'jonny-five' look.


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## Nocturnus (Mar 28, 2005)

Where did you get the LED's from? I like the size of these vs the one I was going to build with the MR16 lamp. Just alot of stuff goes into these.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

Nocturnus said:


> Where did you get the LED's from? I like the size of these vs the one I was going to build with the MR16 lamp. Just alot of stuff goes into these.


If you read down in post #19, there is a group buy at candlepower forums where you can get Cree LEDs and optics. Bram is doing a great job with that... Shipping is fast and reasonable. Or you can use Dealextreme.com where shipping is slow but free. I recommend you buy the LED's already mounted on star boards.


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## xdtr22 (Nov 20, 2007)

Would using the Artic Alumina Adhesive work for putting the copper together instead of solder? I just tried soldering mine and looked damn bad by the time I was done.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

xdtr22 said:


> Would using the Artic Alumina Adhesive work for putting the copper together instead of solder? I just tried soldering mine and looked damn bad by the time I was done.


When you say you tried soldering yours, did you use a propane torch and plumbing solder? I wasn't sure from your question if you tried a regular soldering iron for electronics, which would never work. I found it pretty easy really, if you hold everything together in a vice and use solder flux to help the solder flow.

I suppose you could use AA for these as well, but it wouldn't be any where near as strong of a bond. There is no freakin way this thing is coming apart by getting bounced around once its soldered.

If the copper is just discolored from the heat, get some Brasso polish and shine it up!


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## tomquas (Oct 27, 2007)

Hi MtDawg Jeff-

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I copied your design with some leftover SSC P4s and a L2 5 and 15 Deg optics. I finished this a couple of weeks ago and finally got around to taking a few shots.

My only additions to your design are adding including a switched potentiometer (dimmer) and adding o-rings and set screws to fasten the rear end cap in place. This is a really cheap and easy build. You do need a propane torch though. The clincher for me was when the Marwi mount went on sale for $1.90 at Jensens

























I think this build may answer the burning question about how much you can shave off of a BuckPuck. It was a tight fit with both the Switch Pot and BuckPuck in the same tube. Next build, I'll put one in each tube.


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## mtbdawgJeff (Jul 27, 2004)

Nice work tomquas! Good job getting the pot to fit. I also like how you ran the wire connecting the two tubes through the side instead of out the end cap.:thumbsup:


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

That really clean, nice job Tomquas!

I like this design, and think I'll do something similar for my bar mount light (next project). I don't quite follow the wiring - any chance you can sketch a wiring diagram?

cheers,
dave


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## KFalc (Aug 2, 2007)

Great design, and awesome job to both of you...

I second the previous post about the wiring diagram if its not too much trouble.
I am brand new to this and this is actually my first post.
I went to home depot today and picked up the copper. The rest will be on order next week, but now that I see another option with a dimmer, I may be switching it up and incorporating that as well.
Thanks in advance for the diagram...

Kris


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## tomquas (Oct 27, 2007)

You're in luck, I was working on a schematic on a slightly modified version. Hopefully this is legible.









Note that this is a little different than my first prototype above as I want to put the BuckPuck and the Switch Pot in separate tubes. The Switch Pot (5K Ohm Linear Taper) is available from DigiKey (it's only $3.48 but S&H add up), here is their photo of it. The Radio Shack may have a log taper Switch Pot but it isn't as compact.









The two leads on the black section in the photo are a simple switch, you just run the positive wire from the battery across these leads. The initial turn of the knob "clicks" the light on.

The three leads in the middle are for the potentiometer. The BuckPuck "Ctl" and "Ref" are connected to the middle and left leads (the right lead is not used). It works just like the old rotary dimmer switch in your dining room. I'm using this as a helmet light, it's a little odd at first reaching up there to dim the light, but I got used to it.

Note: that I had to trim these leads in order to get this to fit into the 3/4" end cap.

I'm still looking for a 1/8" Diameter Knob for this (I found one for a previous bike light build for $6 ouch). I tried making a knob out of a wire nut filled with JB Weld but I didn't like the way it looked (I was impressed at how well the JB Weld worked, I had to hack saw it off, you can still see remnants in my light)

You will need six wires between the tubes. I routed short lengths of 22 gage wire through a 1" piece of 3/16" heat shrink tubing (see example photo) and added grommets where the wires enter the tubes. Use the #3023 BuckPuck wires as much as possible and keep your excess wire lengths as short as possible.









Good luck and thanks to MtbDawg Jeff for his design!!

Tom Quas


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## cdn-dave (Jan 6, 2007)

Tom, that is awesome, thanks for putting together an excellent reference!

I'm planning on a couple DealExtreme 3256s, but I think I can figure it out with the help you provided.

As for an alternative to Digikey, maybe this place has what you're looking for - I just stumbed across it during my search for switches, and I think their S&H is a lot better:

http://www.partsexpress.com/index.cfm

cheers,
dave


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## KFalc (Aug 2, 2007)

Perfect thats exactly what I needed.
I can't wait to get started...

Thanks


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