# OT: What road bike is everyone riding (Roadie Content)



## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

Hey everyone..

I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.

I would like to see what people are riding and to get some input on how they find their road bikes, and also what sort of millage they are covering on their bikes.

FWIW, I am eyeing the following contenders:

Bianchi XL Carbon (The frame price is good in Ausralia)
Giant TCR Composite 1 (Best bang for the buck frame and carbon too)
Avanti Corsa Elite (Good frame and great specs for good price)
Orbea

So post pics, comments, ride time spent on the bike and weight if you wish...

Cheers
Trevor!


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

*Road Bikes*

Trevor!

Are you trying to build a light road bike? I would say your best best is to get one built up. You will get a better deal usally.
You can get a decently light road bike for a good price. Is this for racing or just training?

Personally, I just riding a lowwr end TREK for now until I get some more cash. Basically it's just used for training and century rides. Little bu liitle I am feeting some better parts and upgrading it. Eventually I will get a better frame but nothing higher end. But it rides fine for $450. Its only has a 8-spd drivetrain and weighs for than my KLEIN but it rides fine.

It's was a stock TREK 1000. Here athe changes I have done so far using parts I had around and loking for good deals and closeouts:

FRM Carbon Seatpost
Selle San Marco Apiside saddle
Shimano 105 Cranks with a FSA 50T and Shimano 38T (Getting Team Carbon Pro.)
Shimnao 105 Brakes
Shimano 105/Ambrosio Excel Light with DT Supercomps (DA or FRM Team soon.)
FRM Ti Web Stem
Deda 215 44cm
Shimano 105 RD
Shimano 12-25 Ultegra Casstte
Vittoria Rubino Tires (Blue)
Reynolds Ouzo Comp Carbon Fork
FRM A-Headset (coming)
2004 Shimano Ultegra SPD-R pedals
In the next few months I am going to get either a GIANT, FRM, KLEIN or Fetish Cycles Road frames with Carbon Rear stays or a used Litespeed or Masi form my neighbor.

I actullay love the feels and ride of my TREK. I just wish the TT was a small bit shorter.
I my best advise to you is go with what fits you best. Road bike fit IMO is more impotant than a MTB.

I am putting between 25-65 miles 3-4x a week. No problems or issues with the cheap heavy frame. Since it's only a training bike for my MTB riding, at this point I don't care that much about weight. I am doing a Duathlon in 2 weeks on it. I am just adding some Vision TT bars.

Good luck in your Road Bike quest. It's made me a better MTB rider.
No more slicks on the KLEIN


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## dgangi (Jan 19, 2004)

*I'll admit it...*

I purchased my first road bike back in September and I will admit that it has made me faster on my mountain bike and given me more endurance. I wasn't sure that I would like the road bike that much, but there are some really scenic (and difficult) rides in Arizona that can be done year round.

Anyway, if this is your first road bike my suggestion to you is to start with something "moderate" - there is a chance you will not like the sport and it would be a shame for a $4000 bike to hang in your garage. I set up my budget to be $1000US and, after a lot of shopping, settled in on a 2003 Fuji Team. These are very light bikes (16.7 pounds for the 56cm size) and have a nice component spec. The frame is aluminum but the bike rides in a very compliant manner (much of ride quality has to do with your wheelset and not the frame). The picture of my bike is attached.

If you are a lighter rider, then the Fuji Team Super Lite (the bike above mine) is REALLY light - 15 pounds on the nose. There aren't many factory bikes that light, regardless of price. And I believe one of those can be had for <$2000US.

In the 4 months that I have had the bike I have ridden it about 1200 miles. Just yesterday I completed my second century on the bike (100.8mi) on a very scenic and hilly route. In fact, one of the hills that I had to climb was 4.5 miles in my lowest gear -- now that's a grind! And it will definitely help my climbing ability on the MTB.

Lastly, I highly recommend you find some others to ride your bike with. Road biking is all about form and strength. Form is best found when riding with others as they can give you pointers as you ride (vs. a shop attendant who can just blab about how good they are). And being a fast MTB'er doesn't always transfer into being a fast road bike rider, so hooking up with a group of FAST roadies will surely help you get faster and stronger.

Good luck.

Thx...Doug


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## Tbonius (Jan 13, 2004)

*22Lb. MASI .....sled*

see below
I train on my 22lb road bike for MTB XC Racing - (just like most of us) so my theory is - (I'd never thought I'd hear myself saying this) Keep it heavy! I may do a few road races a year...but not enough to concern myself with weight....this way you don't get the "weight shock" of going from a 16lb road bike to a 22lb mountain bike...it's seamless. The MASI was 500 US dude and a really great frame - even if it is made by Haro or something...it could be a 16lb bike easily but it's Tiagra stocked...so yea...but I love it.


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## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

Hey thanks Dirt-Boy for all the information.

I think I will buy a stock bike as they are already light and well priced. Just toying with the frame idea. I will have *no* intention of making it light as it will be well lighter then my Ellsworth.

The bike will be used for training and racing each weekend. I have a top coach that will be taking me under her wing, and I believe I am up for 15-20hrs of training a week, so figure a decent road bike is a must for me.

Trevor!


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## danK (Jan 15, 2004)

*many good comments so far*

I ride one of the bikes you listed: Orbea Lobular Carbon with Campy 10 sp Record/Chorus mix (170/39-53/12-25), ITM bar/stem, Zeus carbon post/fork, black Mavic Cosmos, Wipperman chain, Time Impact Mag pedals (might change to Speedplay Zero but I'm happy with my Equipe Pro CX shoes but have some new Carnacs in the wings).

I came off a Calfee Tetra Pro and Luna Pro with Dura-Ace.

I ride with a regional road team and though I think of mtb racing as my first passion, I truly do it all because I race motocross. Some of the longer racers (motorcycle) are upwards of 2 to 4 hours, and all the top guys train on bicycles.

Anyway, someone listed the Fuji Team as an option. That is a great bike for the money. And the Giant carbon was at the top of my list too. I'm not a bike snob and believe those Taiwan frames are a good platform if they fit the budget and rider's style (in terms of geometry). You will want comfort, and while the Giant Carbon fits it I think the Fuji is a bit more harsh, but when it comes down to it, tires/seat/fork/post/gloves/chamois make more of a diff than frame material.

Here is a pic of my bike at the 2003 San Francisco GP sponsored by T-Mobile.
http://www.whileseated.org/photo/000721.shtml (Velomax in the pic with a 29 cog).


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## DirtDad (May 12, 2002)

*I love the TCR Composite*

I have a TCR composite under 14.5 lbs, and I still have a few Ultegra parts on it. Mine is up on Light-Bikes if you want to take a look, but I have skinnied it down since then.

As for the bike, I am very happy with it. I got it as a frame/fork combo. The frame has a great combination of comfort, liveliness and stability. It does not have the totally snappy feel of an lively aluminum, but it is veeeery close. In exchange for that, it absorbs waaay more bumps than an aluminum frame. I wish I could compare it with the Calnogos and Looks out there, but I never realistically considered them due to cost. For the price it is hard to beat if you are looking for a world class light weight carbon fiber frame.


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## crux (Jan 10, 2004)

Currently I'm riding an older lugger Bianchi that need a new headset and some minor adjustments in the shifting, but it is a solid bike tipping the scales at 21# for a 61cm frame and middle of the road campy components. Agreed 100% plus some that fit on any road bike is more important than mountian due to all the sizes avaliable.

Friend of mine had two Giant TCRs and liked the stiff ride of the alloy frame, but the first frame lasted only two months and the second a bit more than a month and a half before the head tube seperated. Giant dealer and Giant rep. would not take care of the busted up frames and would not consider buying one myself after that. 

Best bet is to ride as many different bikes as possible before laying out the cash, is its to cold or the roads are nasty and the dealer won't let you test ride right now bring in some rollers with you and do a quick 5-10 miles on each to see which fits you best.


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## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

dgangi said:


> I purchased my first road bike back in September and I will admit that it has made me faster on my mountain bike and given me more endurance. I wasn't sure that I would like the road bike that much, but there are some really scenic (and difficult) rides in Arizona that can be done year round.
> 
> Anyway, if this is your first road bike my suggestion to you is to start with something "moderate" - there is a chance you will not like the sport and it would be a shame for a $4000 bike to hang in your garage. I set up my budget to be $1000US and, after a lot of shopping, settled in on a 2003 Fuji Team. These are very light bikes (16.7 pounds for the 56cm size) and have a nice component spec. The frame is aluminum but the bike rides in a very compliant manner (much of ride quality has to do with your wheelset and not the frame). The picture of my bike is attached.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the information.

I won't spend $4000 because its not possible I don't think. The giant looks attractive but I don't like the limited sizing and I see on the large frame they spec a 175mm crank rather then the traditional 172.5 (Or whatever it is).

I'll take a look at Fugi but have never heard of them and doubt there is a local dealer here.

I already have some roadie groups to ride with. One is a very aggressive, competitive and fast group and the other a group of similar riders who are happy to take it easy or if the mood takes them fast an furious. I also have some training partners I ride with. I also ride with very accomplised road riders and MTB riders (one of which is UCI ranked 16 in the world).

I doubt I'll ever not like the sport. I seem that obsessed these days that I'll do anything on a bike, and that includes several TTs I have done on a MTB and ended in the Top 20 riders (Out of a field of around 60-80 roadies)

Trevor!

FWIW, A picture of the avanti:


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## TR (Jan 12, 2004)

Nice looking ride Trevor.
It seems that Avcanti have not made it out of Australia and New Zealand yet. I have had a look at a few of their bikes over time and they always look pretty good and are never overshadowed by their better known opostion. I was just looking at their Manik DJ bike for one of the members of my "club" in comparison to the NORCO Manic and it was very similar but actually had some components that were higher specced.


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## Cloxxki (Jan 11, 2004)

I have a ~2000 Giant TCR Team (quite nice and light, too) with Ultegra that I now refuse to ride for typical road racing, the Large 1250g frame seems to eat up all my forwards effords. I've been looking at converting it to TT for years, no actions taken yet.
I got a 4130 steel Surly pacer on which I put a Singleator chain tensioner and 52-20/16 Flip-Flop gear, for crits and commuting. It feel much more efficient than the Giant, and I love the ride. Due to a lack of any measurable elevations over here, my commuter/crit bike weight doesn't matter to me much. I like the Rivendell 28c tires on it.


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

*20 lbsd curtlo*



Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


a 03' Curtlo using Xo true temper plat tubing. 105 gruppo with OP CK wheels.


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## Zonic Man (Dec 19, 2003)

Custom IF steel. record group, neutron wheels, deda finishing kit.


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## namaSSte (Dec 19, 2003)

right now I have a Gunnar Roadie built up with Open Pro wheels, and full Ultegra. I never weighed it but I'm guessing it's somewhere right around 19-20lbs (probably 20). It certainly isn't superlight but the rid eis fantastic. I used to have a Bottechia Columbus SLX road bike and this 853 feels very similar. You can get lots of opinions on frame choice but personally, I like steel above all else on the road. 

You can probably find a slightly used or NOS steel frame/bike for reasonably cheap and that would probably give you the most bike for your money. 

Good luck to ya. It is great for training but having been away from the road scene (and kinda forgetting what it's like) and now coming back, it doesn't hold a candle to riding off road. Just my two cents but dirt rules!


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## xctearor (Jan 12, 2004)

*Crackendale*

Here is my Cannondale- Full Ultegra (minus the brakes) comes in a little over 20 lbs with computer/cages etc (1lb heavier than the MCM). It defintely gets the job done and you can't beat Cannondale for frame stiffness. Luckily, I'm still fairly young and the long rides don't wear on me like you hear aluminum frames usually do. I rode my first century ever on her last Labor day in 5:28 and really enjoy the roadie thing sometimes.
XC


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

*Scott all the way...you guessed it!*

yes - most will say i'm "a bit" biased but once again german roadie magazine TOUR did a test on 20 different high-end carbon roadbikes and the overall winner is....SCOTT CR1 Pro!

now remember - this not the top of the line CR1 Team Issue but the 2nd highest in the lineup.as a complete bike it's official price is 2950 Euro but check with Tilo from tilosshop.com about best deals on the Scott.

here's the bikes that they tested:
Basso Diamante
Calfee Dragonfly Pro
CKT COR 15
Corratec Carbon Flight
Daccordi Race Fiber
Eddy Merckx Carbon MXM
Frank Roccolana
Kestrel Talon SL
Look KG 461
Moser MX Karbon
Orbea Orca
Red Bull Pro Carbon
Ridley Damocles
Scott CR1 Pro
Simplon Pride DA20
Specialized Roubaix pro
Storck Scenario C1.1
Time VXR
Trek Madone 5.9
Wilier Karbon 2 Deluxe

here's a graph that shows the overall points (in the grey dot), price in Euro (yellow) and weight of the frameset incl. fork in grams (red).
criterias that were noted: 
weight of frame/fork
stability 
lateral stiffness
power transfer
comfort
finish/laquer/service










the whole test is about 10 pages long so don't aske me to print every bike.let me just note a few comments:
Eddy Merckx: weakest stiffnest in the headtube of all tested bikes (48 N/mm against 83 N/mm of the Scott and Basso).unacceptable! the handlebar shakes when going down...

Kestrel: also pretty soft in the headtube (61 N/mm) only acceptable in the bottom brackett stiffness (91 N/mm against Frank 123 N/mm or Scott 106 N/mm)

Simplon: austrian bike.lightest frameset (1269g incl. fork in size 57cm against 1392g of the Scott).it gets good notes all over!

Specialized: NO effect of those fancy dampening inserts!! who wonders? - once again some marketing BS just like all that Bodygeometry hype.it rides decent as are his stiffness measurements.

Trek: rides great.expensive.good quality but no lightweight at 1542g and the measurements are also decent at best: 88 N/mm in the bottom bracket and 66 N/mm in the headtube.

Scott: the little brother of the CR1 Team issue has excellent stiffness numbers paired to a record weight.the price of the complete bike is even lower than some other framesets in this test!it rides great...
the Team issue has different carbon fibres,is over 100g lighter and you can get it with a 270g superlight fork.all with even better stiffness numbers - no comment!price? no comment either - ouch! the frameset is 2300 Euro...

here's the Scott CR1 Pro out of the dealers catalogue.complete weight is 7.6 kilos.








and the CR1 Team issue:









I can only rave about this years Team Issue which had a scandium frame (980g in size M) and also got highest numbers in last years tests.it rides awesome.I always though on roadbikes the difference woouldn't be that big from one to another frame...man i was sooo wrong!

I can't wait for my new CR1 Team Issue frameset...


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## [email protected] (Dec 24, 2003)

Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. !


Here's a pic of one of my road bikes: 2003 Bianchi Pista...what a blast! I've modified the frame to include 2 water-bottle mounts and a rear brake.










Oh, and here's my other road bike, but it has gears (yuck!): Seven Ti Axiom with 9-spd Campy Record.


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## Deanoldo (Dec 30, 2003)

I got an '03 Felt F65 during the summer. It weighs 20lbs and is full 105. The 2004 model is a little lighter and comes with carbon seat stays as well as the carbon fork. It's my first road bike and I'm loving it.......

Dean


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## Coolhand (Jan 15, 2004)

Got me a road bike and a beater cross bike/trainer bike.

My Roadie:

Seven Odonata with Seven's custom Wound Up CF fork.
Seven custom Ti Stem (sigh- single bolt one though- no CF bars for me)
Campy Record 10 (STI's, deraillers, brakes, CF seatpost, Hubs)
3T Prima 199 bars
Eggbeater Twin Ti pedals
Terry Fly Ti saddle (meh)

Out of the bikes you listed, the Orbea's are the nicest. The Starship/Carbon models look really nice.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Well I ride a Klein road bike, weight is about 20 pounds, fast bike, slow rider. 

All the bikes you listed are nice, but I would suggest that you also consider:

1) Colorado Cyclists Douglas Titanium,

2) Lemond Steel or Titanium Bikes,

3) Other large manufactures.


Like Mountain bikes, the best value is in a prebuilt bike. I tend to like Titanium over Carbon fiber because it is harder to damage and can be repaired if damaged. Even more important than with mountain bikes is fit on a road bike. Unlike the mountain bike, you will be in the saddle 90% of the time on the road bike. One common problem I seen with many new road bikes is to much drop from the Seat to the stem, realistically, you should have 0-3 inches, and most likely 1-2 inches. 

Ride a few bikes and see what you think, you will know the right one when you get on it. I agree with the above posters that I would not drop $4000 on your first road bike, anything with 105 components will be plenty durable.


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## divve (May 3, 2002)

Not much to add to the above.....just whatever you get go Campy  Also, note that crazy light frames (1kg or less) often share common features such as, flexy and fatigue with-in a few years, very thin tube walls (dent easily or get holes knocked in them if made out of carbon), or are extremely bone jarring stiff in order not to fold under the light build.


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## Hecubus (Jan 12, 2004)

I have a Look Kx carbon bike. Its one of their stiffest frames which makes it quite durable for training and is still light enough to race. I currently have it with 9 speed Dura Ace drive train and Ksyrium SL wheels. The whole bike weighs in at just a bit over 17lbs. I currently use it for conditioning only but am hoping to get to do a few road races as well this year.


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## Chilito (Jan 13, 2004)

Felt F35


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## thejuru (Jan 19, 2004)

*what about de rosas??????*



nino said:


> yes - most will say i'm "a bit" biased but once again german roadie magazine TOUR did a test on 20 different high-end carbon roadbikes and the overall winner is....SCOTT CR1 Pro!
> 
> now remember - this not the top of the line CR1 Team Issue but the 2nd highest in the lineup.as a complete bike it's official price is 2950 Euro but check with Tilo from tilosshop.com about best deals on the Scott.
> 
> ...


Hi Nino,
I have never seen any kind of test posted by you or anybody else about De Rosa frames. Have you ANY info regarding how they would stack up against the competition? I would imagine the Eddie Merckx would be closest as they used to be partners WAY back, but would love to see any kind of info on the Merak, Dual or King made by De Rosa. I have a special bond with that brand I guess because I used to race as a junior many many years ago on one and wished I had kept it.

Thanks in advance,
thejuru


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## Feideaux (Jan 14, 2004)

*Saw somethnig a few years back on Sheldon Brown...*

...they tested all the top brands. The Titanium De Rosa cracked after 80000 cycles or something. I'll track the link down for you if you want.

F.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

*my fixie....*

15.5 pounds of fixie love. 2000 giant tcr team frame, no name alu steer tube fork.
i've ridden my geared roady once since i got this together. the other is an 18.5# steel interloc frame/fork with dura ace-ultegra mix, hugi-240 hubs, use carbon post, ti stem, and lots of ti/alu bolts and so on. pics of it later.










no name carbon post with alu clamp bolt; hope seat collar with alu bolt. no name cages and tires from performance. lunar light tubes. now has a ti cycles ti stem, and serotta ti headtube extender, and a real nitto moustache bar. no new pic yet, though.










campy record carbon headset, campy front wheel off e-bay. campy mirage single pivot caliper, with ti/alu bolts. modolo lever, jagwire carbon look housing. generic bartape. generic pedals.










white ind. eno eccentric rear hub. velocity aerohead rim, 15-16db spokes/alloy nipples, 32 holes. 18T surly fixed cog and lockring. the two large hub fixing bolts, and the two inner bolts of the hub are now ti.










ritchey road crank, with generic 46t ring. srp alu ring and crank bolts. action-tec ti bb.

it's light, it's fast. frame soon to be replaced with a 2003 bianchi eros steel frame picked up off of e-bay. should add about a pound, maybe a bit more. but i'd rather have the steel ride!


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## Explosif98 (Jan 22, 2004)

Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


I've just been going through the same thing. Have a serious look at the Scott bikes, if there is a dealer for them in Hobart and also Jamis seem to be very good value here. The latter I'm probably (meaning definitely) biased on as I've just put an order down for a Jamis Eclipse so impressed was I. The Jamis Comet was another I considered. You can get an idea of prices and spec at: http://www.melbournebicycle.com.au/. Again I'm not sure whether there is a Jamis dealer in your locale. The site also lists Scott and Trek road bikes.

Giant make great bikes at a great price but I could never get one to fit me as well as some of the others with a larger range of sizes. I'm afraid I know sweet FA apart from their name about the Bianchi and Orbea. Everyone I've talked to have stressed fit of the bike so I guess it's important  . Have fun in your search.


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## gatechMTBer (Jan 24, 2004)

*Trek 5500. 15.67 Pounds*

Trek 5500


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## ThaFurnace (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm the only one with a softride? Full dura-ace. Pretty heavy at just shy of 20lbs. Softride riders might not be the fastest, but we sure are the most comfortable!


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## danK (Jan 15, 2004)

*I did*

When rehabbing from a back injury. Very comfy, but I did not like how the seat height changed depending on how much weight I gained or lost, or even what I had in my jersey pockets. But for the long haul on rough roads, they are great!


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## KMan (Dec 30, 2003)

*I'm riding just a stock 2004 Cannondale R2000*

Parts are pleanty fine for a light enough road bike. Pretty much use it for training only and hopefully some centuries this year. Bike is stock except for a SLR saddle and some Eggbeater pedals.

KMan


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## Didier Carpentier (Jan 13, 2004)

*I'll be more than happy to sponsor you Trevor*

hello trevor,
please check on my website.
I'll be happy to sponsor you with a road bike.
check on my website at: www.greybicycle.com
I'm also looking for a distributor in Australia.
contact me off the board at: [email protected]
if interested, I'm sure we may find a deal that suits us both.
soon. didier


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## WuJJ (Jan 30, 2004)

Anyone know anything about how the 2004 Lapierre Ultimate Carbon X-Lite 995 rides? My friend overseas can get one for me relatively cheap.

http://www.cycles-lapierre.fr/web/produits/995.htm


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## Go Kart Motzart (Jan 2, 2004)

*2004 R3000*

Just bought a new 2004 R3000 full Dura-Ace.


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## divve (May 3, 2002)

I see yours has the latest fork with carbon drop-outs. Sweet.


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## Mike T. (Dec 30, 2003)

Here's my roadbike. New this past fall - my first new roadbike since 1986. I hope it will re-kindle my passion for the road which has taken a backseat to mtbs over the last twelve years. I got re-enthused while at the world road championships in October.

.


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## Go Kart Motzart (Jan 2, 2004)

divve said:


> I see yours has the latest fork with carbon drop-outs. Sweet.


Yea, I hope that not a concern. I am not a light guy and I'll be interested to see how it holds up for jumping.


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## ¶å©øß (Jan 12, 2004)

Trevy:

check out this frame
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3658148912&category=22681

seems like a decent deal, and if it really weighs 2LBS then you could build a really freaking light bike.


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## cruzmissle (Jan 31, 2004)

*Felt F25R*

I got this last summer as a training tool, and darnit if I don't find myself gravitating more toward the roadie dark side these days. I've always has a skinny tired bike, and I've followed the European racing season since Lemond's heyday, but it took having a new ride really to bring me into the road fold. There's a good local roadie culture. By the end of last season I was probably doing 200 miles/week pre peaking, and racing the weight-weenied Blur on weekends (and doing one hard mid-week off-road ride).

Here it is the day I picked it up, before the silver Tacx cage. ~17 lbs:










Now cyclingnews.com is my homepage, I subscribe to Cycle Sport, and at Charles de Gaulle airport recently I bought Cyclisme 2004, le guide complet de toutes les equipes, a guide to all the Div I teams (which I am translating using my halting French). Holy Geek-a-thon, Batman. Oh well.

Cruzmissle


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## markom (Jan 21, 2004)

*www.efbe.de*



Feideaux said:


> ...they tested all the top brands. The Titanium De Rosa cracked after 80000 cycles or something. I'll track the link down for you if you want.


Here's another ruthless test site by those beer-loving folks:
http://www.efbe.de
If this has any value when road bike I don't know?

Here is Damon Rinards' website preserved by Sheldon Brown:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/

For more information ja huge flame wars you can google rec.bicycles.tech newsgroup for subjects like "shimano vs campy", "greasing bottom bracket axle", bike fit, wheel building etc.

Fit on a road bike is critical, you really need good shop for fitting you on a bike. Upward angled stems are not pretty IMO but most bikes today have really low front ends... I've had to give up and use rising stem because of my back problems..

oh well, cabin fever seems to be getting me - I must have half million cycling web sites bookmarked but can ride or train only occasionally due work and sh!t weather...


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## moschika (Jan 12, 2004)

these are my two road bikes. my curtlo gearie and my moto commuter fixie.

the curtlo is TT OX platinum, custom sizing, DA gruppo. don't know how much it weighs but it's less then my ss mtb which is around 20#'s

the commuter is a mix of original and new stuff.


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## mbikertim (Jan 7, 2004)

Trevor,

Definitely alot of hot bikes to be seen here. But don't lose focus on good fit. Your body will thank you after the century is over.



Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


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## ignazjr (Dec 29, 2003)

*best advice here*



mbikertim said:


> Definitely alot of hot bikes to be seen here. But don't lose focus on good fit. Your body will thank you after the century is over.


^^^^^^^^ yep. Call me retro or whatever, but I'd stay away from compact geometry road frames and integrated headsets.

The #1 reason why compact road geometry came out is because it's cheaper and easier for the manufacturer and the dealer. Less SKUs = less overhead = more money. Compact frames, however, are nice bikes for those that fit them. Ride one first. If you've got to go with a funky stem or seatpost, steer clear. Fit is most important.

Integrated headsets are nice, but I don't think they're totally dialed yet. It's 2 precision pieces coming together from 2 different manufacturing sources. Even a micro hair of tolerance off will kill all of the good karma in your headset. Chris King has a lot to say on that subject on his website.

Of the bikes you've listed, Orbea makes some fantastic frames for the money in the US and they're getting quite a following. I've owned a few Bianchis. The frames that come out of the Reparto Course factory are, indeed, much nicer. The non RC bikes are still solid bikes, too. Don't know much about the Avanti.

Road riding is fun. I hope you like it.


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## meat tooth paste (Sep 7, 2004)

*05 Pista*

My road bike is also my all time favorite bike, a Bianchi Pista.


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## grantgaston123 (Aug 18, 2004)

*Klein's are nice too*

Hey

I am currently riding a Klein. It handles well and feels great. i highly recommend them.

Although the team I ride for is about to take delivery of our new 6-13 cannondale frames. Should get here next week, and can't wait!!!

Grant


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## ZipMTB (Jan 29, 2004)

*My $.02*

My brother rides a Felt and it is a great bike for the $$. Good groupset and a nice frame. He has a longer torso than me so it fits him well.

Last week I rented a road bike while down in Florida. It was a Jamis Comet. 17.5 lbs. Full ultegra minus the Truvativ crank. It retails for $2400 but a quick search could find it for around $1600. I am working the wife right now to get one and replace my old Fuji.


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## TrailNut (Apr 6, 2004)

*Viner Pro Team*

Viner Pro Team road bike, 55.5 size
sub-3# Deda eom16.5 *steel* frame [2.8# claimed by Viner, www.viner.it and their British distributer, but I would think that weight maybe true for their smallest size (48?)].
full Campy Chorus 10-speed gruppo.

full bike with time atac xs pedals weighs 20.25# on a Topeak digital scale, sans saddle bag, pump, etc

once the wheels and bottom bracket wears out, in a few years, I'll replace with Phil Wood hubs and BB.

rides like a dream.

all these years i resisted buying a road bike...

MTBing still rules, but road race biking's fun way to train for fitness. I've also discovered rodie group rides are the way to go, on weekends.

http://www.viner.it/english/index.htm

http://www.vinerbikes.com

http://gvhbikes.com/


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## mtb_biker (Jan 27, 2004)

Mr. Scary said:


> No way does that bike weigh 15.67 lbs. My friend has a 5500 with 10 spd. Dura Ace, Mavic Kysriums, Tripe Ti pedlas, Conti Supersonic tires, SLR saddle, Thomson masterpiece post, Ritchey WCS stem/carbon bar and his bike is 16. How do you suppose yours is lighter?


Seems doable.. threw some weights in a spreadsheet.. the fork wasn't on weightweeines though.


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## DMFT (Dec 31, 2003)

*Happy New Year all..........*

- Lot's of good advice here - GREAT THREAD!!!

How are the Look prices in Aus.??? 
- I'm REALLY Jonesin' myself currently and am eyeballin' the new 555, and then I'll piece it together with ALL the sweet weightweenie stuff out there these days. Cant' wait!  
Hoping to get right to 15 lbs, anything less I'd be scared as I'm a Buck-Eight-Five......
Enjoy whatever you purchase Trevor!
- Think : FIT, Fit, fit as everyone else has said!!!!!


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2005)

*nice weights*

show me a deda bar that is 135 g's, or deda stem that is 110g's. sorry.
those skewers are not 75 g's a pair either. just the beginning.......


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## LowCel (Jan 16, 2004)

I ride an IF Ti Crown Jewel. The bars, pedals, stem, and brakes have all been replaced since this pic. It now has a Kestrel carbon EMS pro bar, Specialized S-Works carbon 100 mm stem, Speedplay zero (hamilton edition) pedals and Campy Record brakes. The majority of the components are Campy Record with the exception of the cassette which is Chorus 13-29 and the crankset and bb which are FSA. Total weight is under 17 pounds which I think is respectable for a ti frame.


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## mtb_biker (Jan 27, 2004)

jonny_mac said:


> show me a deda bar that is 135 g's, or deda stem that is 110g's. sorry.
> those skewers are not 75 g's a pair either. just the beginning.......


I took the weights off weightweenies for the deda stuff (deda elementi) as an estimate. ksyrium's don't need rim tape either. I rounded up on most everything else... and i'm uncertain of the fork weight. I was just showing how it could be done..


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## LowCel (Jan 16, 2004)

BTW Trevor, what bike did you end up getting?


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2005)

*it couldnt*



mtb_biker said:


> I took the weights off weightweenies for the deda stuff (deda elementi) as an estimate. I rounded up on most everything else... and i'm uncertain of the fork weight. I was just showing how it could be done..


be done, that was the point. anything could be done with fake weights,
but in the real world on a real scale(not a fish scale) it wouldnt be that
light.i want to see some of these "light" bikes on scales not some
spreadsheet. that bar is almost 100g's heavier than you listed, almost
1/4 lb right there.


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## mtb_biker (Jan 27, 2004)

jonny_mac said:


> be done, that was the point. anything could be done with fake weights,
> but in the real world on a real scale(not a fish scale) it wouldnt be that
> light.i want to see some of these "light" bikes on scales not some
> spreadsheet. that bar is almost 100g's heavier than you listed, almost
> 1/4 lb right there.


true true. I'm not a roadie, just a mountain biker with a road bike. Just estimates. If that fork is 300g-400g (between an ec90 and look fork) (so even if that bar is 100g more this would negate it). I don't know the weight of his frame, so i used the weightweenies one and added a few grams even though weightweenies used a 60cm frame, etc.

If you know all the weights then feel free to do an estimate of what it will be but my point was it seems doable from a spreadsheet standpoint.


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2005)

*bontrager*



mtb_biker said:


> true true. I'm not a roadie, just a mountain biker with a road bike. Just estimates. If that fork is 300g-400g (between an ec90 and look fork) (so even if that bar is 100g more this would negate it). I don't know the weight of his frame, so i used the weightweenies one and added a few grams even though weightweenies used a 60cm frame, etc.
> 
> If you know all the weights then feel free to do an estimate of what it will be but my point was it seems doable.


claims the fork at like 500 g's


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## Janman (Jun 12, 2004)

I have a columbus navigator frame , equiped with dura ace 9 speed , ksyrium elite , Ritchey wcs cockpit with a forza carbon fork , Slr tita saddle on a selcof pen 

Check my site for pictures 

pictures !


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## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

LowCel said:


> BTW Trevor, what bike did you end up getting?


I ended up getting a Giant TCR Composite 1, as it was very affordable and came with a reasonable spec list and it was a full carbon frame with full carbon fork, carbon cranks, carbon stem, carbon post etc etc etc so really met up to the sort of bike I wanted.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*My roadie...*

... that I'm (not) riding is a '00 TCR alu frame I got from a bud for a good price. I built it up on the cheap with my parts bin parts, some swap meet parts and the like. I gotta say, I like it a lot. I hear you about the limited sizes, S,M,L.

It handles well, is a tad harsh in ride quality (although the carbon version may not have this issue). It took me a while to get it to the point where the gearing worked correctly. Unknownst (is that a word?) to me, Dura Ace levers only work with Dura Ace derailleurs. Whoda thunk? I also swapped out the boat anchor suspension seat post for a regular Ritchey one. My next purchase may be a set of 172.5 or 175mm cranks. The 170s aren't floating my boat.


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## Bike Nazi (Apr 3, 2004)

*Have you thought about getting a cheapie*



Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


from supergo with Ultegra parts and upgrading to a really good frame and fork later?
Thats what I did 3 years ago but can't bring myself to spend good MTB funds on a new road bike frame when this after market jippo one, fits and works just fine.

The first winter I road it about 1000 miles
2nd winter a little more than that
this 3rd/last winter about 2500 miles with about half of them on the go nowhere stand.

Last winters road biking paid big for my MTBing, I am way less slow than I was a couple of years ago and I notice the more I ride the road bike the faster I am on the mountain bike.
This year I'm going to get into informal, long group road rides, and hopefully take my right full place in XC MTB racing, fastest of the slow.


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Apparently you can build the Giant's up pretty light, who would've thunk it?

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/articles.php?ID=65


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## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

Upandatem said:


> Apparently you can build the Giant's up pretty light, who would've thunk it?
> 
> http://weightweenies.starbike.com/articles.php?ID=65


Giants can be built it quite light indeed. The Composite frames are very versatile that way.


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## split (Jan 12, 2004)

Here's my latest build. The goal was to get on the road while on a tight budget. I'm pleased with how it turned out. It's a portly 19 lbs, but it rides real smooth. The feel of steel is real nice. It's an old Serotta steel road frame built up with Ultegra components, King headset, truvativ elita cranks, wound up fork and post, syntace stem, etc.


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## LowCel (Jan 16, 2004)

Trevor! said:


> I ended up getting a Giant TCR Composite 1, as it was very affordable and came with a reasonable spec list and it was a full carbon frame with full carbon fork, carbon cranks, carbon stem, carbon post etc etc etc so really met up to the sort of bike I wanted.


Good choice. I had one before I bought my IF. I liked it so much that I actually used the measurements from the Giant as a starting point when I had the new bike built. I just had the head tube extended 1cm to make it a little easier on my back and I had the chain stays lengthened 1 cm to add a little comfort. A couple of other small changes were made as well but nothing major.


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## full_xtr_racer (May 26, 2004)

sorry i just had to do it lol.. ive been racing on that frame all year with some pretty respectable finishes considering it was my first year of racing and im on a 25lb road bike 

im also searching for a new road bike


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## chase2wheels (Oct 16, 2003)

I've had this TCR going on 3 years with no problems. I've got about 6500 miles on it with 5000 alone in 2004. It orginally came with 105 components, but I did major upgrades in early 2004. Giant has great bang for the buck. My next road bike will be a Giant too. Good luck.


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## HellMuttCracker (Jan 13, 2004)

Kish Custom Road
just a hair over 19 pounds


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## Fett (Jan 6, 2004)

*My current road ride*

I just bought the frame off Ebay. It weighs in at 16.6 lbs with full DuraAce, Look Carbon fork, Thomson post and stem. Easton carbon bar, Terry Zero saddle, Speedplay pedals and a Mike Garcia AM classic/Aerohead wheelset.


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## jbf (Jan 28, 2004)

*Merlin Extralight - 16 lbs*

Could be lighter, but it has durable wheels and a comfortable saddle.


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## xctearor (Jan 12, 2004)

*2004 Cannondale R3000*

Here is my new C-dale replacing my old '01 R1000. 16.4lbs with pedals and cages in a 58cm!!!
XC


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## MerlinTi (Apr 23, 2004)

*Custom Seven Odonata*

Shade over 15 lbs
- '04 Record w/carbon cranks + SRP bolts and BTP tuned '03 shift/brake levers
- Easton SLX Superlite fork
- CT-1 post
- EC-90 bars
- Terry Ti seat
- Speedplay X-1 (BTP tuned)
- '02 Ksyrium SL w/Bold Precision Ti skewers, ultralight tubes, and Vittoria Open Corsa CX
- Wipperman 1011 chain w/hollow pins and cut plates
- Syntace stem w/Ti bolts
- Extralight seat clamp
- Nokon cables
- Zero Gravity brakes
- King headset
- Arundel and King Ti cages w/SRP Al bolts


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## DMFT (Dec 31, 2003)

*Beeeeeutiful!!!*



MerlinTi said:


> Shade over 15 lbs
> - '04 Record w/carbon cranks + SRP bolts and BTP tuned '03 shift/brake levers
> - Easton SLX Superlite fork
> - CT-1 post
> ...


How are you liking the Zero G's??? - Thanks.


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## MerlinTi (Apr 23, 2004)

*Zero Grav's*



DMFT said:


> How are you liking the Zero G's??? - Thanks.


I like them a lot. Very impressed. Would put them on par with my old, early 90's Chorus. Before I bought them, I heard the stock pads sucked, but they work for me. Will probably upgrade to Kool Stops after the spring. Be forewarned, take a long time to set up correctly, took a while to deliver, and are $$$

Mine are the '04's. However, I read ZG has upgraded the design for 05 to increase power and cut an additional 10% - 15% off the weight

My basis of comparison is against the following:

93 Chorus
Had those for 5 years (93-98). Seemed fine to me - pretty stong given they were single pivots. Azetc/Kool Stop pads made a big difference (rim was a Sun MA19 tubular)

87 (?) Cobalto's (98-02)
Probably my favorite brakes ever. Worked great (rim was a Sun MA19 tubular). Had to be marginally more careful with these. Felt a little spongy - but no big deal - just had to squeeze them a little more when hitting the curves on the decents - monthly cable tension adjustment was key - could not by lazy maintaining them. Eventually switched cables and pads to Dura Ace/Kool Stop (MTB - with new holders). With this upgrade, they stopped on a dime!

02 Record Dual Pivot (02-04)
Great feel and responsiveness (paired with Ksyriums). IMO, probably most powerful stoppers ever made for the road. Decending on the big hills out in Colorado (Red Mountain - into Ouray, Wolf Creek, etc) was awesome - single finger braking

Cheers!


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## DMFT (Dec 31, 2003)

Thanks Merlin, I'll keep that in mind.


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## Lost81 (Dec 14, 2004)

Boy, am I glad I found this thread!

I am looking for a titanium roadbike as my 1st roadbike.
They fit differently though, and I am a little lost.
Someone told me that the length of the top tube is more important than the seat tube.

Can someone help me with fit?

Here's what I gotten so far:

Seat tube length needed: Inseam x 2/3
83.566 cm x 2/3 = 55.654956 cm Seat tube

Top Tube length needed: = 75.25% trunk length + 7.8% forearm length + 7% total arm length - 1cm (1/2"). The answer should be rounded out to the nearest 1/2cm (1/4").

Trunk length: 66.04 cm (26")
Sternal Notch: 24.8125 cm (24 13/16")
Forearm length: 38.735 cm (15 1/4")
Arm length: 69.215 cm (27 1/4")

0.7525(66.04) + 0.078(38.735) + 0.07(69.215) - 1 = 56.56148 cm top tube

Thigh length: 59 cm ( 23.338")
Lower leg length: 53.5 cm ( 21.063")

Seat tube angle?

Looking at this, it seems that for Merlin, I need a 57 cm seat tube frame in order to get the 56.5 cm top tube. Or am I mistaken?

When the proper frame size is settled then I will bug this forum about stem angle and length  

Thanks guys, I really, really appreciate this.
I don't want to waste the LBS' since I am looking for a frame by myself.
(I don't want to be one of those a**holes who use the expertise of the LBS and then buy off eBay. That's just wrong).

For what it is worth, the frames I am considering are:
Merlin Extralight (57 cm seat tube, 56.5 cm top tube).
Merlin Cyrene
Merlin Agilis
Merlin Magia

I'm 160 lbs, 6' 2" (186.5 cm).


Cheers,
-Lost81


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## jbf (Jan 28, 2004)

*I'm 5' 9-1/2" and ride a 57cm Merlin Extralight ...*

My cycling inseam is 84.5cm and I am using a 105mm stem. I do think that since I am now in my 40's that I like a larger frame fit than alot of roadies do. I find the concept of jamming onto the smallest frame possible a trend that does not make sense for me. I used to ride 2 cm smaller frame 20 years ago. In hindsight, I think those frames were too small. Look at Lances position, he rides a pretty big frame with minimal seatpost exposed and hardly any drop between his saddle and handlebars.

The 57cm Merlin is really a 55.2 c-c, which sounds a little small for someone who is 6' 2". In my book, you should go up to the 58cm which is a 56.2 c-c. This all assumes you have an accurate inseam measurement. Make sure you follow the correct methodology for measuring it by using a book or large contractors firmly against your crotch. Good luck.


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## upstateSC-rider (Dec 25, 2003)

04 Roubaix - base model here. Great bike, love the hell out of it.

Lou.


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## Gripshift (Jan 29, 2004)

I just ride my Kekyll 800.


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## full_xtr_racer (May 26, 2004)

Lost81 said:


> Seat tube length needed: Inseam x 2/3
> 83.566 cm x 2/3 = 55.654956 cm Seat tube
> 
> Top Tube length needed: = 75.25% trunk length + 7.8% forearm length + 7% total arm length - 1cm (1/2"). The answer should be rounded out to the nearest 1/2cm (1/4").


im looking for a new road bike right now too. ive got a bit of a wierd build, 6'2" also, but really long legs and a short trunk. i tried that formula and it gave me a 61cm seat tube and a 54.5 top tube, but ill need about a 63 seat tube and a 57 top tube. i think you should add about 2cm to each of those measurments. or just get a custom ti frame.. then its almost guaranteed to fit . epic ti has a custom frame for $1350 usd, not much more than a standard ti frame. and seat tube angle wont matter much. the bike companies would pretty much have that figured out already


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## cruzthepug (Nov 28, 2004)

Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


Santa Cruz Roadster
full Ultregra
Spinergy Wheels
carbon seatpost
SLR gel flow saddle
19.5 lbs w/pedals & bag


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## Trevor! (Dec 23, 2003)

You know, after all this discussion I never ever posted picture of my road bike.

*Giant TCR Composite* 
When I got this bike, there was a huge debate about the size of it. Its nearly a year on and I still ride it with no issues. The stem is placed lower then pictured and I ride with an SLR too.


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## Berkeley Mike (Jan 13, 2004)

*1982 Medici Pro Strada*

I rode this when A friend owned it back in '84 and picked it up from him about 2 years ago. 23 lbs,campy and shimano. I'm glad to have it.


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## cadence90 (May 8, 2004)

*Custom Ti is the way to go...*

...*Kish Custom Fabrication Ti*, that is! 

7300g now with fairly standard components, will get it to 6799g this spring.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3050


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## VoltesV (May 26, 2004)

Fondriest Carbon Magister, Campy Record, AmerClass wheels. Weight: about 16 and change


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## SVSocrates (Dec 8, 2004)

Trevor! said:


> Hey everyone..
> 
> I have seen the road bikes on light bikes, but I am sure many more people on this forum have road bikes. I am slowly starting to work out what road bike to get and whether or not to buy one built up or to try and build one up on a really tight budget.
> 
> ...


Am riding a 2003 Jamis Eclipse. The bike has been written up in a few publications as being a steal (pricewise). You get a steel/carbon fiber frame with a carbon fork and a nice set of parts. I'd really recommend it as a first road bike.

Cheers,

Michael


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## tequila joe (Dec 30, 2003)

HI Everyone,

First, is my 1970's Falcon Olympic - Reynolds 531 frame, original Titlist and Weinmann components - She is a beautiful, classic, smooth riding touring bike. She's not very light at about 21 lbs.

Next, my 2003 Specialized Allez Pro - Columbus SLX, Full DuraAce, Ksyrium - She's stiff and likes to go fast. I haven't weighed her but I would guess she's just below 17 lbs.

Tequila!


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## meat tooth paste (Sep 7, 2004)

*My beater duct tape bike*

This is my other road bike. It's my beater $60 thrift store Centurion Accordo. Couldn't stand the original toothpaste color scheme, so I painted the lugs red and wrapped camo duct tape around the tubes. Running a 1x9 with 42t in front and an XT 12-32 casette in the back.


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## floydg68 (May 21, 2004)

*Two Old Faithfuls!*

I take the dog on MTB rides with me. She loves it and does a whole lot better crossing water hazards than I do on my mtb. My MTB is a Flo Red 2003 Epic Disk.Here is the road machine. I've taken to bright colors since being hit by cars twice. Better seen than dead!


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## MantisMan (Jan 20, 2004)

*Cannondale UltraCompact CAAD9*

Just kidding,

My wifes old MTB built with STI, WTB drops, and spare parts (170mm Raceface cranks)

Not a road bike but quick as hell, about 20 lbs and pretty much free since I stash so many parts!

Fun bike!


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## jlschrrs (Jan 22, 2004)

*Curtlo*



jrm said:


> a 03' Curtlo using Xo true temper plat tubing. 105 gruppo with OP CK wheels.


Just wondering how you like the curtlo--I'm thinking about getting a Curtlo road bike as well and was wondering what you thought of the build quality, working with Doug, if you got what you wanted (and more!) etc. 
I'd be happy for any input.


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## corndogggy (Apr 20, 2004)

Tbonius said:


> The MASI was 500 US dude and a really great frame - even if it is made by Haro or something...


As a Haro fan I have to say that Haro makes great frames. I have yet to hear a good argument saying otherwise, most people only compare Haro's prices to overinflated prices then base their decision off of that.

Secondly, Masi is not made by Haro. Haro has exclusive rights to import them from Italy, although many are beginning to be made in California and possibly Taiwan. Masi has been around for like 100 years.

Thirdly, I have to recommend to the guy that started this thread, Trevor I think... to consider Felt. I don't know what your budget is, but you did mention "best bang for the buck" on one of the bikes, which I think Felt owns that department. I have a Felt F55 on the way, should be here in a few weeks. Full 10-speed Dura-Ace except for the FSA carbon fiber crankset, MSRP is only $1,929. Talk about bang for the buck, I don't think any other manufacturer can touch that. The full carbon frame version of that is only like $2,500 but I couldn't justify it, since I'm only using it to get in shape for mountain biking.

https://www.feltracing.com/2005_bikes/2005_f55.html


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Hey, first time poster on this board...

I just got a Look 585 bike. It's soo good, I shed a tear when I'm not on it.

It is un-believable. Frame weighs 2.3 lbs and it is the most laterally stiff, most responsive bike I've tried by far. Climbing and acceleration is an uplifting experience and handling is quick, and laser sharp. It holds a line or a lean angle with unwavering commitment.



















Weight is 15.27 as pictured. Coming soon are zero gravity brakes and Reynolds Cirro SV-KOMs wheels.

francois


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## Debaser (Jan 12, 2004)

Havn't seen a Merckx over here in a while, so here goes. Used frame, new parts, this summer/ mostly 9 speed Ultergra, and some other stiff trying to keep parts reletively cheap. Not the lightest in the world, but works purty good.

Bar tape has been swapped out to black, looks way better.


----------

