# Klunker Build Opinions



## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

I saw this '64 Schwinn Typhoon in the window of an antique shop and the mood struck me to try building a klunker for a summer side project.

When I got it home I realized the fork blades were askew, but thankfully, I had a perfect size black fork in the parts bin. The wheels were also pretty bad so I'm using a set I kept off an '86 Stumpjumper and an old Suntour BMX freewheel. 

So, I guess at this point my question is how much should I modify it versus keeping it original?

For example, I have a square taper bottom bracket and some old Suntour XC cranks, but I also kinda like the look of the original ashtabula cranks and chainring.

I was also considering having some cantilever bosses brazed on because there's no brake bridge. 

Then there's the little things, like using more modern stem, saddle and oury grips that are more comfortable/functional or my old bmx stem, and original schwinn seat and grips. 

Thoughts? Opinions??


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## Howley (Nov 23, 2005)

Put a seat on it - Ride It - All good...Oops - no brakes... Try MX BMX brake for the rear - but you said no bridge...and Canti for the front or change out the rear with a coaster brake.


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

drum brakes, front and back.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

I wanted to get it rideable so here's how it's looking right now. I needed a longer seatpost so I found one with the same inner diameter as the existing seatpost outer diameter and just slipped it over the top. I also notched and clamped it. 

I also put some brakes on the front. As I mentioned earlier, there's no bridge for a rear brake, and I don't have any drum brakes in the parts bin, so I'll probably have some bosses brazed on the frame.

Again, this isn't the final build, just wanted to get it rolling, so ideas are still encouraged and appreciated. Thanks!


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

You can get bolt on canti bosses from more products to buy. Made specifically for Schwinns. He can also braze on canti bosses for you. He also turns down 1 1/8 king headsets to fit Schwinn headtubes so you can run modern suspension forks. Based on what you already have I would say just do the braze ons and roll that bike like it is. Reminds me of a rustbucket I picked up a few years back. I did a quick rattle can job on it but I never built it back up.


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## YakimaDeathYaks (Aug 15, 2012)

Is the Typhoon a heavyweight or a middleweight bike, if its a middleweight bike.....not telling you shouldn't build it...you might want to consider waiting for a prewar frame or a heavyweight frame if you are going to be riding it on trails. The dropouts on the middleweight bikes aren't up to trail riding. I built a couple middleweights and they just didn't seem like they would hold up. It was a 64 Phillips and i think a Schwinn Corvette and both weren't cutting it. So ive been waiting patiently for a heavy weight thats in the right condition but so far no luck in my neck fo the woods.


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## Silver King (Mar 5, 2013)

YakimaDeathYaks said:


> Is the Typhoon a heavyweight or a middleweight bike, if its a middleweight bike.....not telling you shouldn't build it...you might want to consider waiting for a prewar frame or a heavyweight frame if you are going to be riding it on trails. The dropouts on the middleweight bikes aren't up to trail riding. I built a couple middleweights and they just didn't seem like they would hold up. It was a 64 Phillips and i think a Schwinn Corvette and both weren't cutting it. So ive been waiting patiently for a heavy weight thats in the right condition but so far no luck in my neck fo the woods.


The Typhoon's a middleweight and IIRC the heavies and the mids (1960's) had the same dropouts. For what it's worth, I've bombed my local rock garden on my Schwinn without any fear of breakage at all. Pedal strike was horrid but I knew that going in. I've posted my Goodyear klunker in the other thread and that thing has the flimsiest pressed in drop outs you've ever seen; still good.


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## steve.ski (Feb 3, 2011)

This is a really cool build. I have some ideas for thrasher/klunker bike builds since I have a few incompletes in the back of my garage, just not a ton of time to spend in the garage.

Agree on the middle/heavyweight thing. One possible consideration would be internal rust compromising the strength from the inside out?

Regardless, great bike, looks like fun.


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the feedback. I agree that a heavyweight would be better, but I'm not planning any serious trail riding. The gearing would prevent me from climbing anything around here, and the bottom bracket is way too low. It's more for around town, dirt path type riding.


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## Silver King (Mar 5, 2013)

Sizzler said:


> I agree that a heavyweight would be better...


I don't think they're better; they're just wider. People chose the prewar Excelsiors because they had a higher BB. You'll be fine and will have lots of fun.


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## propguy (Oct 2, 2008)

The middleweights are fine. I've been riding my middleweight coaster brake klunk for a few years without any problems. Pedal strike can be a problem - pick your lines carefully!


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## Oldfatbaldguy (Nov 4, 2010)

I lucked into a deal on an old Mongoose on Craigs List that donated pretty much everything to my Klunker except the handlebars, Mongoose front forks fit in the headset and provided canti/noodle brake posts. Rear got the U-brace sawed off a broken wally-world bouncer for brakes. Front wheel on Mongoose was junk, but I had a better one. Mongoose crankset and 116mm BB fit nicely in truvative adapter and Cheap Shimano F derailleur clamped onto seat tube beautifully after I made a shim out of a piece of aluminum tent pole. Rear derailleur claw from an old Schwinn roadie, and thumb shifters from the junk box.

Your mileage may vary, but use what you can find. More fun that way!


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Almost finished, just need bosses brazed on for the rear brake. It rides very nicely, but I'm having issues with the chain slapping the tire, which restricts it to road use, but I also can't pull any more chain slack out without having the cranks bind. Any suggestions?

Oh, and while cleaning it I figured I would find rusted bearings and pitted races, but when I opened up the headset and bb I found the original bearings still coated in grease and in perfect shape, which is more than I can expect with my modern components. I was under the impression that modern bearings were better sealed and more precise, so what's the story? Is the old adage "they don't make them like they used to" true with respect to certain parts?

<img src = "https://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/Sizzle-Chest/K1.jpg" >

<img src = "https://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/Sizzle-Chest/K2.jpg" >


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## Sizzler (Sep 24, 2009)

Swapped out the grips and saddle for some Oury's and an old Ritchey. Had a blast cruising the coast!

<img src = "https://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/Sizzle-Chest/IMG_3317.jpg" >

<img src = "https://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/Sizzle-Chest/IMG_3382.jpg" >


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