# The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

*The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite (Hitch, etc.)*

Got it. 
Assembled. 
First ride.









(sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)

*******************************************************************
~edit: starting an index, to help people find key info in this long, 
and often cluttered, thread
*******************************************************************
===========================================================
If you see a post in this thread that you think would benefit others if it's indexed
here, then please PM me the link to that post. 
===========================================================

Firstly...


Canoe said:


> ... NEVER let any partners or friends try it. You may not get it back.


Secondly...
We shouldn't have to say this, but for safety and optimizing the longevity of the parts (or in some cases, just so it will ride), check, grease and adjust everything before you first ride it. Typical culprits are Bottom Bracket, Front Hub, Rear Hub, Head Set, Brakes.​

Dolo, first impressions
Dolo measurements post
Dolo tire pressure PSI starting numbers
Start of list of tires people have put on a Dolo



watts888 said:


> ... Took a magnet to my dolo the other day. the aluminum parts were: stem, crankarms (oddly enough), and rims.
> Everything else was steel or plastic.


*Recommended Upgrades*
Bottom Bracket: $10 YST BSA Cup & Bearings, with seal to spindle shaft
- Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Removal-Square Spindle Type
- Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Adjustable Type Bottom Bracket Service​
Optimum *ZERO BEARING TORQUE* - you want this for the BB & hub bearings
zero torque, yet with zero play: 
- first try at explaining the technique
- second try at explaining the technique
- Update: when locking, may go too tight​
Late Discovery: *ALTERNATE TO YST BB UPGRADE*
Better choice for heavy riders. 
Best choice if you've bent your BB spindle. 
Someone figured out that although the cartridge BB bearings are too narrow to work with the stock crank arms, there is a cartridge bearing (or two?) that will work with curved crank arms. Look in the last pages of this thread to see what parts work. 
Note: someone was doing this and discovered that their BB shell width wasn't 100 mm, but 110 mm. Measure.
The YST is less drag to pedal when set to zero-torque, but I'm pretty sure the cartridge is better against contaminants as it uses sealed bearings, instead of the YST's simple rubber seal.​
Freewheel with a granny gear:
Shimano Megarange: 13-34T or 14-34T
_*But*_ they're "Alpine" gearing; they swap out their 28T for the 34T, so there's a big gap to the granny.​
custom stack of a 34T megarange
Allows you to put a 28T back in, for having a 28T and for smoother gear progression across the range. 


blown240 said:


> Modifying a Freewheel:
> Many Massif and Dolomite owners want to put an easier gear on their bikes. This is easily done by swapping on a Megarange freewheel. The problem with the megarange freewheel is that is has a big, 10 tooth, jump between the 2 largest cogs.



*Alternate* to a custom stacked 34T megarange freewheel
*7 speed vs. 8 speed freewheel *
Allegedly the Sunrace and others that fit are inferior quality to the Shimano (softer metal? bearings don't last as long?), but... the 8 speed has the same physical spacing between the gears, so the stock derailer can access 7 of the 8, so it's a straight swap in (subject to chain length for larger gears)
13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34T usable 15-34T or a 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,34T usable 13-34T and some others.

Gear Inch Chart with Eight Speed Freewheel



momikey said:


> ... I ended up ordering the 8 speed Sunrace megarange 11-34T ... has the 28T second gear as a nice step down... I only use gears 1-7 and not the eighth so it ends at 13t instead of 8th gear being 11T, all I had to do was install the part and ride....



Triple Mtb chain-ring:
Pretty much essential for trail riding, or have hills, or other than packed snow on the flat or packed sand on the flat. 
22-32-42T, typically manually selected by moving the chain to the 22T for hills/trails/snow/sand or 32T for road. 
Then *if* you find yourself changing a lot, *then* look to adding a front derailer.​
*Popular Upgrades*

better tubes: roll easier, lighter too
better tires: 
120 tpi tires roll easier, better grip, lighter too 
Huge improvement to the quality & enjoyment of your ride.
On-one floaters seem to be the most popular of the less-expensive all-purpose fat tires.
Coloured on-one floaters on a Dolo​Start of list of tires people have put on a Dolo
Easy to knock 7+ lbs. off the Dolo's weight with new tires & DH tubes. 
trigger shifter:
Some prefer triggers, some don't. 
Shimano SIS 7 speed compatible.
One example that works)​
Better brakes (like the Avid BB7)
And larger rotor size recommended for anything other than cruising use on flat terrain, or for clydes. Why larger rotors for your fat bike.
Better brake levers (Avid Speed Dial levers are a nice indulgence ($14 to $40 depending on source), but overkill)
Better seat, different bars
*Also Done*

Rim Cutouts: 
Limited benefit, but if you like the colour of rim tape showing through rim cutouts...
A number of examples throughout the thread, or look in the Beast Modification thread.​
Round cutouts (easiest):
offset holes (between nipple holes on each side) template positioning 
See staggered offset round cutouts on stock Dolo rims
Single ring of cutouts down the center of the rim (looks nicer) and for a few posts below it
Note: PAY ATTENTION to how he cuts the holes!!!


Fatboy Jim said:


> ... made a template where I made holes over each spoke nipple and measured half way between the holes, then made another hole for a sharpie to mark the center of the rim. I drilled pilot holes at each sharpie mark and used a 1 1/4" bi-metal hole saw to cut the larger holes...



Cutouts done poorly, you'll ruin your rims, or hurt yourself when it fails. 


Canoe said:


> ... *DO NOT* do - or allow someone to do - something like seen in the following, where there's too little material, misaligned and workmanship with stress-risers.
> rim cutout



triple chainring with front derailer (and a DIY fender)
and front derailer revisted
front derailer, lever shifter
$15 full frame bag (large Ibera) on Dolo (of course the medium Ibera bag fits too, but it doesn't clear a bottle nor a cage on the down tube)
*Tall Riders*


Canoe said:


> Dolo comes in one size, blue.



BMX bars
Trekking Bar, adjustable stem
shorter-stem-flip, including some ideas on adjusting stance & cockpit 

Updated Feb 5, 2019, to change forum links from page based to post based addressing (even though the forum search returns page based links that don't work...:madman


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Brakes work, shifter works, bearings lubed. 
Front axle was locked tight.

Very well packages compared to the way the Beast was boxed. Many tubes protected with thin foam & card-stock overtop. 

Calipers are not up to my BB7 set, but they work and so far are smooth.

Rolls better than the Beast. Appears to be the same tires. I'll measure tomorrow.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.


You couldn't take the time to read? Now that's ..., let's call it brilliant.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Canoe said:


> You couldn't take the time to read?


That you have a bike set up wrong?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> That you have a bike set up wrong?





Canoe said:


> (sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)


I can change the stem. I can't change my back.


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## Gravelo (Apr 12, 2013)

Thanks for posting it. Sitting here hoping they are back in stock soon. Probably would ride better with the stem out front, but who am I to presume to know what you like? What if you're a vet with an arm missing or something. Ride your ride dude, it' all yours after all.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Hate to "ruin" it, but I'll be needing cruiser bars & an adjustable stem, and a set-back seat post...
Not a vet, just back and other medical problems.


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

Hey there. Me, I use a BMX handlebar, leaned back a little. That's what makes me able to ride at all. You might want to try that, Canoe.


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## GalenCopes (Dec 5, 2013)

For the money, that is a great looking bike! I say get some ape hangers so your back doesn't hurt and ride the heck out of it. Please let us know how you like it after a couple of rides. I am thinking about buying one for when Dad comes to visit!

Galen


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

A few more quick points from that short midnight ride.

Headset was wonderfully smooth and liquid (during assembly, and while riding at a few degrees below zero). (I've never seen this in a bike below $800, but my experience is limited)
Tires measure identical to the Beast tires, from the outside anyway. Have to pull one off to weigh it and the inner tube. At this point, no idea why the Dolo rolls so much better than the Beast. Tires smell, but no where near as bad as the Beast tires. 
Wheel seemed stronger, more robust, confidence inspiring. 
The 36 spokes are straight gauge. Couldn't find my dial calipers, but the plastic vernier one says the black Beast spokes are 1.6mm and the shiny steel Dolo spokes are 1.8mm. 
By hand squeeze & plucking (no meter), spoke tension is good. Front wheel is tensioned slightly more on the LH than on the RH. Rear spokes have more variance in tension and their RH has meaningfully more tension. A quick look has the rims appearing to be both laterally & radially true, and it tracked nicely in that short ride. 
No spokes creaked or cracked: appears that the wheel was properly stressed to seat the spokes & nipples as part of the build.
Some of the welds aren't ideal smooth waved pools, but while having to judge with paint on top, they appear strong enough.
The factory has taken care with the shiny paint. Not even fine surface marks from wiping with a hard cloth. I'm sure I'll fix that before too long.
When unpacking, I only found one small chip in the paint where the foam/card-stock shipping protection didn't extend quite far enough for whatever chipped the paint. Tube is not dinged.
The blue paint is far more attractive than the wallyworld photos show. And I had assumed I'd be stripping the paint off of the rims, but with it standing in front of me the bike looks good. So good I didn't even pull the decals off! (grumble grumble - I hate decals)
Brakes & gears obviously setup at the factory and worked out of the box.
Gears changed perfectly at the start of my short ride. By the end, it wouldn't go into 7th. I assume this is due to a new cable stretching. 
Geometry is different from the Beast. The top of the head tube is much closer to the ground. ~1" closer. Riding, the Dolo seems downright "petite" compared to my Beast and a pugs with Larrys I've tried. A strange sensation to have for a fat bike. 
This is only a first look, and one bike, and no record of use, but this bike _might_ be a real sleeper. 
And for $225.

Hope to get it back outside sometime today to get some real photos.


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

Roughly what size would it compare it to? medium? large?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I don't have enough experience to judge that. I have to ride sitting straight up anyway. 
What points would you like measured?


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

If you could get these dimensions, that would be great.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Measurements to the nearest 1/16".
(indoors, on flat concrete floor, frame vertical, fork straight)
(I'm describing where I measure to/from, in case I chose the wrong point; I'm sure someone will be kind enough to correct me)

Wheelbase (center of axle to center of axle) 44 1/2"
Top Tube (top center of Seat Tube to top center of Head Tube) 23 1/16"
Stand-over (ground to highest point of the top of the Top Tube, immediately rear of the weld to the Head Tube) 34 3/4"
ground to top of the lowest point of the Top Tube (immediately forward of the weld to the Seat Tube) 27"
Seat Tube (center of crank to top of seat tube) 17 3/16"
"center to center" ? (center of crank to center of top tube meeting seat tube) 13 13/16"
ground to center of axle 14 9/16"
ground to center of crank 12 3/8"
rear axle to center of crank 18 3/4"

**************************************************************
_~edit: adding various measurements from throughout the thread._
**************************************************************
NOTE: measurements in this post (both above and below this note) are for the original Dolo, as shipped in March 2014. Weight ~49 lbs..

(There are reports of later Dolo's having chain stays that are "around 3/4" narrower".
From sometime in the summer/fall of 2014, they shipped with knobby tires. 
New knobby tires, 4.245" wide, 14.5 radius (368.3mm) ~2900g)
More clearance measurements )​
Rims: 100mm wide, outside width of rim is 101.75mm
36 spokes (not 32), straight gauge 1.8mm
.
stock front wheel: 3636g
stock front, no rubber: 2226g
stock tube: ~705g (yes, that's _one_ tube)
stock tire: ~2830g (yes, that's _one_ tire)
stock rim tape: ~101g (one)
rim cutouts: 1.5" round with 1" round by valves, save ~203g per rim
.
stock tire diameter 29.375", 373.06mm radius



rotaidalg said:


> ...width of the stock front tire at 14 PSI - the widest point measures at 4 9/16 inches (4.5625")



original stock tire tread
Surly Endo (3.7") & original stock Dolo tire (on a Beast - same rim as Dolo) 
.
tread/q-factor, crank-to-chainstay clearances
.
chain ring 36T
*freewheel* (not a cassette), 7 speed, 14-16-18-20-22-24-28T.
37.8 through 75.5 Gear Inches
3.01 to 6.03 Meters of Development, 
stock 170mm cranks giving 2.82 to 5.64 gain ratio
derailer photo I
derailer photo II
stock shifter
.
spindle is 189mm
bottom bracket shell is 100mm "about 175mm" 
WARNING! someone got a newer Dolo with a 110 mm bb
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/d...olomite-902410-post13955103.html#post13955103
crank arm: 170mm, 219g
stock pedal: 197g
pedal, crank arm, spider & chain ring (36T) with plastic chainring guard each side, for 648g. Non-drive side: crank arm & pedal, 219g + 197g for 416g. Total: 1064g, or 2.35 lbs. 
stock chainring (at bottom)
.
hubs/spread: front 135mm, rear 190mm
stock front hub, 522g
discs are 160mm
don't know if the front brake tabs on the 135 front are '135 front tabs' or '135 rear tabs'
brake photos
stock lever
.
seat post 266g, is 10.5" below the seat clamp
seat post, painted, is labelled 028. The diameter ranges between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm; call it 28.6
seat 423g
.
headset is 1 1/8" threadless
steerer tube 1 1/8"
bars 497g, clamp 25.0mm


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Photo showing measurement points.
NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.


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## 7up (Feb 21, 2014)

Very nice and good luck with your new ride.Still waiting for mine.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Grabbed a couple of shots when I took the Dolo outside today for a side shot for the measurements. In the sun, it's too contrasty to bother trying to get good detail shots. But here's a few to show what it can.


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## Gravelo (Apr 12, 2013)

Are the brake housings full length?


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## Mark_BC (Sep 19, 2012)

Canoe said:


> NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.


I thought about that too. Just for the sake of stating it, it may be possible to get reasonably correct angles off a photo if you use a telephoto lens and stand way back. I have an 800 mm equivalent lens on my Nikon V1 so if I backed up a few hundred feet it might be pretty orthographic, if that's the right word.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Gravelo said:


> Are the brake housings full length?



Front brake cable -- fully housed to the caliper. 
Rear brake cable -- housed, except where it runs on the underside of the top tube, running open between stops at each end, exposed to crap up off of the front wheel, with only the down tube to shield it. 
Shift Cable -- housed from shifter to a stop under the top tube, open running beside the rear brake cable to its stop, then after a short housing over to a stop on the drive-side seat stay, runs open straight down the seat stay to a stop, then housed to take it to the derailer.
_(~edit.: at least on this Dolo)_

Mark_BC
yes, standing off and optical zooming in would give a more accurate on-axis image, but only more accurate, not accurate. But even with the snow to reflect light into the shadows, with the direct sunlight the contrast was too high to make that worth doing today. Look how hard it is to pick out detail in those photographs.


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## Voltaggio (Feb 27, 2014)

*This might help...*

These photos might help to undefined illustrate some differences in the frame layout between the Beast and Dolomite.

As orthographically as possible (yeah, that's the right term, hehe), I've put a Beast (in red) behind a Dolomite. The angle is not perfect, obviously, but you can see some clear differences that backup what Canoe has basically already said...

























What may not be obvious is that the wheelbase on the Dolomite is almost an inch longer.

In the photo of the two BBs, the rear axles are lined up, so you can see how far aft the BB on the Dolomite has moved. The chain/seat stays are shorter, and the top/bottom tubes are longer.

The head tube on the Dolomite is much lower, and almost an inch forward of the Beast's head tube. So, the forks are shorter as well.

In the rear shot of the bikes, you can see that the Dolomite's rear dropouts are significantly farther apart than the Beast's.

I also think that the Dolomite's rear rim is not centered between the hub's flanges (is that called asymmetrical lacing?) to make room for a 7-sp freewheel.

On the new frame, the BB is farther aft, and the head tube is slightly forward, so my feet don't rub on the front tire like they sometimes do on the Beast, while pedaling through a turn.

I did a test ride with my brother, switching back and forth. We rode mainly on tarmac, and a bit on grass. We were hard-pressed to pick a favorite, handling-wise. The obvious differences are the bars, the brakes, and the gears. The Dolomite has its "upgrades" over its predecessor, and the Beast has raw simplicity on its side.

I honestly don't know yet which one I like better..


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

heck yeah man. make sure and give some ride reports and pix!!


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## linklight (Mar 9, 2014)

I had the Beast - changed the rear cog, quill stem, pedals, and handlebar. It was heavy so I never rode it on the trail - didn't want to walk up the hills.

I sold it and bought a Framed Minnesota 2.0. I was surprised how much less it weighed compared to the beast. The weight of the Minnesota feels like my Trek HiFi full suspension 29er.

I was going to buy a second set of wheels for the Minnesota but it looks like I can buy a Dolomite for the same price as the wheels. Any idea how much the Dolomite weighs? How does it compare to the beast it terms of weight?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...

When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.

I took near 4.5 lbs. off my Beast with a DH tube and a Larry on the front, along with a token contribution from a drilled rim. Do front & back, for near 9 lbs. off. (assuming it's the same tire & tube weight as the Beast).


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## Voltaggio (Feb 27, 2014)

The Dolomite is slightly heavier due the the new components. Other than the bars and stem, I don't think there are any weight-saving changes since the Beast. If the Beast bothered you, chances are the Dolomite will too. Honestly, I'm used to really good equipment too. I raced and rode BMX back in the day, I've ridden my Ducatis on many race tracks, and I have built lots of high performance machinery in the last 30+ years...I get it.

To me, the Beastomites are not like about that. The bikes wear a Mongoose badge, but they are not the bikes I raced as a youth. These bikes are about access to a segment of a sport that has a high price to access. These bikes are so cheap that they will bring new riders in the sport...that's mostly great...new riders can change public awareness and grease the wheels of progress. If more riders want to access public spaces, laws can change to allow that -- more bike lanes, more trails, etc. More people to buy components means that manufacturers may make more components. More riders may mean more cool people to share the sport with. More riders may mean that more of us get off the couch and get into the wind.

At any rate...do you get what you get what you pay for with the Beastomites? Yes and no. Sure, the bikes are ridiculously cheap and you have to expect/accept many shortcuts. But are they really that bad? If I'm used to the high-grade machinery, these may seem inferior by comparison, but in my opinion, they are far more competent than their price would suggest. For the cost of a set of good Surly's skins, you get a WHOLE bike.

Yeah, I know, you can get a cheap fatty elsewhere too...what $700-800? That's a deterrent for people who don't already know what you know. Say they buy a $200 Beastomite, ride it, then start to figure out its shortcomings, and if they want to mod it. They may mod it to the point where they've spent the same money or more anyways...so what? They have got a bike they built and they may LOVE. Is an $800 bike finished? No...it will probably have some weak stuff, and some marginal stuff too.

My point is, we're all bikers, and biking is a sport that thrives when shared. It's healthy to share ideas. If you're lucky, smart, rich, and/or you eat Top Ramen and make other sacrifices to buy the good stuff because you are a good rider, wanna be a good rider, or you just want every advantage, that's awesome! Not everyone does that. The Beastomite rider...that person may just become a new great friend...that person may be the tipping point to open some new snow trails, ya nevah know.

Who do people count on in a zombie apocalypse? Darryl Dixon! The Beastomites are the Darryl Dixons of the FatBike world!

/rant


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Well said and well done, Volt. I like your style. I hope all your Beastomite dreams and visions of the future come true. Except the zombie apocalypse.


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## shank3r (Aug 15, 2013)

I'm one of those people that bought a beast after not owning a bike since I was a kid...now I'm buying either a Sun Spider or a Origin8 Crawler


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I modded my Beast to It's practical limits and loved it. Just got a new Pugs on a bro deal and getting used to it. Working my way up to carbon and/or suspension Fattie someday. The beast was good training and progression keeps me enthused.


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## Voltaggio (Feb 27, 2014)

dudeist said:


> Well said and well done, Volt. I like your style. I hope all your Beastomite dreams and visions of the future come true. Except the zombie apocalypse.


Thanks you for the kind words, perhaps I gotten wiser with the years...I still obsess over details and efficiency, but I've come to realize that there are other factors at play and not everyone is as crazy as me. :madman:

I'm like shank3r in that I've come back to bicycles after a long time away. I've worked on some great bikes lately, and I caught the bug again. But carving a grand (or three) out of a budget built for a family of 4 probably to buy/build a baddazz fattie would keep me bike-less for some time. The Beast seemed like a cheap way back...and it's much better than the pricetag would suggest -- which ain't saying much, but I work with what I've got, and create miracles where I can!

I picked up a Dolomite as well, because, well, it was...you know...more...and still cheap...yeah, I know. My plan was to electrify one, or both, and sell one, or maybe use one for a sidehack mod of the other...or I'll sell one and make a sidehack out of a Massif, I dunno...in uncharted waters here...it'll be cool though!

BTW, I treat the zombie apocalypse kinda like the CDC (CDC EPR | Social Media | Preparedness 101: Zombie Apocalypse). I really don't think there will be one...earthquakes and hurricanes are a lot more likely, but hey, if you're ready for a zombie apocalypse, you're ready for anything! :thumbsup:


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ElliotN said:


> Hey there. Me, I use a BMX handlebar, leaned back a little. That's what makes me able to ride at all. You might want to try that, Canoe.











That's my stock Beast with cruiser bars & and adjustable stem. Once I go for the drop-back seat-post:
a BMX bar may work with the right stem. With the bar in the photo, doing a 180 with the stem may be enough for the Beast and the Dolo, or I may end up using the fully curved cruiser bars I have laying around. A BMX bar would certainly provide a nicer hand position, and much easier to do the power pull/crank when a drop-back seat post provides somewhat of a crank-forward geometry. Perhaps the curved cruiser for the Beast and a BMX for the Dolo... I'll have to check out their sizes, and clamp.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I was hitting my heels on the chain stays a few times. 
I got curious.

Tread/Q-factor

[table="width: 500", class: grid]
[tr]
[td][/td]
[td]Beast
(mine)[/td]
[td]Dolo - orig
release March 2014
(mine)[/td]
[td]Dolo - newer
late summer/fall 2014 to ___
(CrackerJim)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tread / Q-factor[/td]
[td]9 1/2"[/td]
[td]9 23/32"[/td]
[td]253mm (9.96")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim[/td]
[td]7"[/td]
[td]8 3/16"[/td]
[td]191mm (7.52")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]rear axle center to crank shaft center[/td]
[td]19 29/32"[/td]
[td]18 3/4"[/td]
[td]475mm (18.7")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]rear axle center to pedal center[/td]
[td]~13 1/8"[/td]
[td]~12"[/td]
[td]310mm (12.2")[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]clearance, chain stay to crank arm[/td]
[td]LH 24.45mm
RH 20.0mm[/td]
[td]LH 9mm
RH 8mm[/td]
[td]LH ?
RH 17mm[/td]
[/tr]
[tr][/tr]
[tr]
[td]wheelbase[/td]
[td]43 15/16"[/td]
[td]44 1/2"[/td]
[td]45 1/4"[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

Additional numbers for the 2nd gen Dolo at http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...olomite-902410-post11809990.html#post11809990


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## davesupra (Sep 2, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Photo showing measurement points.
> NOTE: photo was taken with a wide angle lens, fork turned, etc.. It is impossible for a photo to be "on axis" for every part of the bike, so do not try to do a relative measurement of the photo nor take angles off the photo and expect them to work.
> 
> View attachment 875390


Wow, thanks for the great info!


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Canoe,

Can you comment on the bike components? Drivetrain (number of teeth, crank length, quality of pedals), stem length, hub widths. What brand are the brakes? Do you think that we can get replacement pads? How long is the seat post? 27.2mm diameter? Schrader valves? How about the shifter? Does it work?

Thanks!


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Hows the bottom bracket and crank? I know that the Beast had some issues with the crank. I wonder if that was fixed?


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

dieseli said:


> Canoe,
> 
> Can you comment on the bike components? Drivetrain (number of teeth, crank length, quality of pedals), stem length, hub widths. What brand are the brakes? Do you think that we can get replacement pads? How long is the seat post? 27.2mm diameter? Schrader valves? How about the shifter? Does it work?
> 
> Thanks!


it's a $225 bicycle from Wally-World. The components are going to be garbage.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Gigantic said:


> it's a $225 bicycle from Wally-World. The components are going to be garbage.


Understand. I want to know what I am starting with so that is does not become a $500 "$225 bicycle from Wally world". If so, I would just rather buy a $500 bike.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

if you have a spare parts bin to work out of it's not a bad deal. 100mm bb, 190 rear hubs spacing. it doesn't need the 100mm rims though. a vee rubber snow shoe is going to be the largest tire that will fit. and from what i have read that tire works better on a narrower rim.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.


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## GalenCopes (Dec 5, 2013)

Gigantic said:


> Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.


Here is a link of a friend's Pacer X he built for his daughter.

1976 Amc Pacer X Harrel Lamkin Photo 7

It won Hot Rod Editor's Choice on the Power Tour. I really can't remember the year.

Galen


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Gigantic said:


> Putting good parts on a Walgoose is like hot-rodding an AMC Pacer. No matter what you put on it, it's still a Walgoose, it's still heavier than a bicycle has a right to be and it still has its inherent flaws, just with some shinier bits.


Now you are just getting carried away. You shouldn't really care what bike they are riding or how much they spent on it. Do what you want, and spend $$ on what makes you happy. Yes, it is a Wal Mart bike, and the stern opinions and feelings towards them is what drives the hate for the bike.

If your lbs had the exclusive rights to sell it, you would not hate it nearly as much. Not saying you wouldn't dispise it, but you wouldn't **** your pants with anger when you heard it's name mentioned.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Is it a cassette or freewheel on the rear wheel?


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

I'm def thinking about buying this, drilling out the wheels, upgrading crank/derailleur, and new stem and bars. I hope that its running a cassette but I know i'm just dreaming. I'd like to get it under 45lbs....think that's possible?


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## Voltaggio (Feb 27, 2014)

You can probably save 8-9 lbs. by just changing tires and tubes. With the other mods you've mentioned, the weight will likely be under 40. I believe it's a freewheel on the hub.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Anyone pulled and weighed the cranks and BB yet? I bet there is a lot of weight to be saved there.

And before anyone lambasts me for upgrading a $200 bike, I have bins of parts that have long since been paid for.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

I'd probably be buying new parts but i figure it'll still be less than 500 total. I'm really surprised wal mart came out with a bike like this. The best part about it is you can actually upgrade things. I'm thinking bb7's some orgin8 fat bike tires, drilling the holes myself and maybe going tubeless. Should be interesting to say the least. I just can't justify spending thousands on a surly or salsa for a "fun" bike. Maybe if I had an unlimited income id splurge and get something like that.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Front brake started dragging. It was a quick adjustment to the caliper. 
Front & rear discs are labeled 160 mm.









(orange cast is reflection from my coat)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Colour is nice.
Paint run just to right of center in the photo (top of down tube, very close to head tube, tucked in under the top tube). Otherwise, the paint is done nicely.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Doesn't look half bad...what kind of calipers are those? Any idea of what the stand over is?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)




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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)




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## Voltaggio (Feb 27, 2014)

Why on earth do we have to justify anything we do to something we own? It's your bike...to quote ShockG, "Doowhatchalike."


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

canoe, thanks for posting all these pics!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

welcome

I figure it's important that anyone considering getting one of these knows what they're getting.

p.s. 
I drive an AMC Eagle. The 258's been baked, re-centered, mild over-bore, balanced, wide-band high-torque cam, upgraded HO head, HD valve springs, upgraded carb, HV coil & ignition module, 8.8 silicone wires, large core rad. And a swamp-cooler for those long trips.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tomcat85 said:


> ... Any idea of what the stand over is?


http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/do...olomite-902410-post11049929.html#post11049929


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> I can change the stem. I can't change my back.


I had back surgery back in '99 herniated disc so I doubt that your back is any worse than mine. I found that leaning forward over the bike makes my back feel better, not worse. 
This set up that you have .. so much more straight upwards actually puts more stress (pounding) on the lower back going over a bump. I advise that you set the stem and bars properly and give it a try for about a month or more.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Gigantic said:


> If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.


Yup ..


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## Tracer650 (Nov 19, 2012)

Some room to save weight for sure. But still just a hi ten steel frame and fork. Hit a few good jumps and that fork is done for. Also would be concerned with buckling at the top and down tubes and also at the brake side seat stay. Any gussets on there?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kris7047th, Thanks for your suggestion, but my issue isn't a herniated disc, and the back is only one issue. Between the fat tires & sitting upright I can ride. Without them, two minutes is around the limit, and I pay afterwards.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> The shipping waybill says 49 lbs..
> *Bathroom scales say the bike is 50 lbs.., but it does have a tiny front light and some dirt on it now...
> *
> When I get the time, I'm going to pull the tires and weigh them and the tube. Going to try split-tube tubeless to see how that rolls with losing the inner tube.
> ...


HOLY CRAP that is HEAVY !! My Pugs weighed only 35 lbs stock. The Pugsley frame is steel also.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> kris7047th, Thanks for your suggestion, but my issue isn't a herniated disc, and the back is only one issue. Between the fat tires & sitting upright I can ride. Without them, two minutes is around the limit, and I pay afterwards.


Bummer about your back. Like I said in a thread I started I am healing from a broken pelvis which has aggravated my lower back as well. I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Tracer650 said:


> Any gussets on there?


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

I can sympathize with Canoe about his cranky back. Me, I cannot ride leaning forward, because then I have to bend my neck up to see where I'm going, which pinches a nerve in my cranky neck, and my right arm "falls off". So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kris7047th said:


> HOLY CRAP that is HEAVY !! My Pugs weighed only 35 lbs stock.


Yup.
Loose around ~9 lbs going to 120 tpi Surly & DH tube on front & rear. Another ~400g saved if you 1.5" hole the rims... plus containing rim tape. Cranks will be heavy, but won't get you into Pugs range.

From Beast rim. Note that centered between nipples/holes, that the other side's string of holes is not exactly alined. Not material to its requirements, but not optimum either.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ElliotN said:


> ... So I use a BMX bar and a cruiser saddle on a full suspension bike, and I can get around all right. My 2 cents.


I checked the spacing today. I suspect a BMX bar will be ideal for me, with or without the drop-back seat post. Thanks!



kris7047th said:


> ... I dunno .. a bike that heavy. Have you lowered the PSI in your tires? That will help smooth out the bumps considerably and ease any stress on your back.


It's both bumps (degree and their character) and the stress. The fat tires, tested from 3 psi to 25 psi on Larrys and Endos, do their part fine for taking care of the bumps. Without fat, I can't ride without significant pain. A Beast with a 120 tpi Surly front is fine. 
Remaining is a position issue, nothing to do with bumps. I need to be upright.
Heavy? Yes. But I get to ride. Priceless. 
And I'm certainly not racing. Nor going any of the places I used to take a bike long before there were these strange things called Mountain Bikes.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.


But not for what's in your avatar, right?


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Hard bumps can jar the back and neck. I also have compression in my neck but that issue is minor compared to my back and knees. I have had two knee surgeries on the left knee .. '77 had reconstruction and miraculously it has held up all of these years. 

Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? You may be surprised the ride that you will experience, and if you do the same weight shaving mods you will get the bike ridiculously lower = a better ride and easier to manage. Even when you do shave off 10 lbs on the goose or whatever .. by the time you add fenders (who wants to get a wet mud strip up their back going through puddles?) a seat bag with tools and gear it will get right back up there.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kris7047th said:


> Have you test ridden a Surly Pugsley or another fat bike like the Kona at a LBS? ...


Yes.
That's how I determined that near fat was an improvement, and fat worked, but standard geometry didn't work for me.

Yes, it's heavy. 
Heavy just means I get there later instead of sooner.

But I get to ride.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Yes.
> That's how I determined that near fat was an improvement, and fat worked, but standard geometry didn't work for me.
> 
> Yes, it's heavy.
> ...


I hear you on that! I also was diagnosed with severe Osteoporosis several years ago .. effecting my left hip mostly. Through a nasal med back then and now through diet I have been able to keep it checked at moderate. When I fractured my pelvis 8 weeks ago, the doctor believed I had RE fractured it (1st time 1989) So this time was a little scary for me at my age of 63 and 125 lbs 5'5" lady .. would it heal properly and would I be able to ride again which I need to do for my health to keep my bones strong .. enjoy getting outside? This ran through my mind as I dealt getting around on crutches in pain, the difficulty of sleeping at night because the fracture would not allow me to sleep on either side. So I would wake up with miserable lower back pain on the hour. I don't know what was worse .. the fracture or my back .. lol .. 8 weeks later it is all behind me YAY !!
.......................

Still .. I can't stress enough to visit a reputable bike shop. Let them know of your disabilities and they will measure you and fit you to a bike that won't hurt you down the road.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Have you given thought about a Ritchey adjustable stem? This is what was put on my Trek 520, recommended by my friend who manages a bike shop and I ordered my bike through.















This bike is my pride & joy. My friend whom I ordered this through (a Trek dealer) did upgrades/orders with physical my issues in mind. I LOVE this bike. The Ritchey stem brings the bars up and a bit closer to me for a more upright position .. and it has adjustable positions.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Yup. BMX bars and an adjustable stem. I was aiming for the Ritchey, due to the way it secures the adjustment (haven't found anything close yet). Haven't determined if 100mm or 120mm will be required.
I will be going for a drop-back seat post too.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Canoe said:


> View attachment 876150
> 
> 
> View attachment 876151


Can the stickers be removed?

How long is the seatpost? Is it 27.2mm?

Thanks for all the info!


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Yup. BMX bars and an adjustable stem. I was aiming for the Ritchey, due to the way it secures the adjustment (haven't found anything close yet). Haven't determined if 100mm or 120mm will be required.
> I will be going for a* drop-back seat post* too.


Dayum .. a good post will cost more than what you paid for the bike!


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in. 
I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

kjlued said:


> Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in.
> I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.


HUH ?? Where do you get the fat bike is just a winter seasonal bike? Use your imagination and ride it whenever and WHEREVER. My Pugsley is great on city asphalt streets and a blast to ride .. and I can go places where my non-fatbike friends can't. Fortunately one friend is looking into getting .. probably a Mukluk hopefully sooner than later. He was so pumped when I told him that I bought the Pugs.

Sorry .. but your excuse not investing in a Pugsley just doesn't hold water. I am riding my Pugs year around, not just in the winter.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

It isn't an excuse, it is a reason. There is a difference. 
I know you can take a fat bike anywhere but my passion is not in owning a fat bike. 

FYI, I can also take my 29er in the snow. It does great in hard pack. It just didn't do so hot on the climbs when there was 4" on the ground. Still me and a friend were the tracks that day. 

Glad you like your Pugsly so much. You should, you bought it. However why does it seem to bother you so much that somebody could have just as much fun on a a bike that cost 1/10 the price or just doesn't need a bike of that caliber?


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

kjlued said:


> It isn't an excuse, it is a reason. There is a difference.
> I know you can take a fat bike anywhere but my passion is not in owning a fat bike.
> 
> FYI, I can also take my 29er in the snow. It does great in hard pack. It just didn't do so hot on the climbs when there was 4" on the ground. Still me and a friend were the tracks that day.
> ...


Well your *reason* was flawed. But if you don't want one .. that's different. You read me wrong. I have no problem with you enjoying whatever you buy, but there are those reading these forums looking for advice or just trying to figure which way to go. To* infer *that fat bikes are just good for winter just isn't so. To each their own .. but lets be honest what fat bikes can do.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

kris7047th said:


> Well your *reason* was flawed. But if you don't want one .. that's different. You read me wrong. I have no problem with you enjoying whatever you buy, but there are those reading these forums looking for advice or just trying to figure which way to go. To* infer *that fat bikes are just good for winter just isn't so. To each their own .. but lets be honest what fat bikes can do.


Give it a rest! It's damn bike not a cult!


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

I am aware of what they can do and also aware of what I personally want it for if I ever get one. If I get one, I me be able to justify spending up to $1k on it but not $2k+. Even then, it would be hard for me to justify that since I don't make a lot of money. 
I don't have that in any of my bikes and I ride the piss out of them and certainly would not spend it on a bike that would get ridden the least.


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

kjlued said:


> I am aware of what they can do and also aware of what I personally want it for if I ever get one. If I get one, I me be able to justify spending up to $1k on it but not $2k+. Even then, it would be hard for me to justify that since I don't make a lot of money.
> I don't have that in any of my bikes and I ride the piss out of them and certainly would not spend it on a bike that would get ridden the least.


Umm .. I didn't spend $2,000. Got this way cheaper through REI, kids gave me a REI $200 gift card for Christmas, already had $111 coming back from REI in year end dividends AND since I ordered this bike days before Jan 1 and financed the bike on my REI Visa card I got 15% kick back dividend around $260 on top of everything else to cash out this month to apply to the bill. So after all was applied the final amount was around $1,100 for a $1,750 bike (including tax)
You just have to know how to work it to save big on a better bike.

I don't make a lot either .. retired on Soc Sec and drawing on an annuity to supplement. But I won't waste my money on a bike that won't last long. Did that before and learned my lesson .. was a wasted $200 plus bike that I rode maybe five times. It was not a fun bike to ride. I hated it. Had I the opportunity to test ride it .. I never would have bought it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tomcat85 said:


> ...what kind of calipers are those? ...


JAK-5, black, white, orange
Detail: 
1. Casting alloy, one-piece design caliper body
2. Optional spherical washer adapting structure, easy for caliper adjustment and mounting
3. Mounting type:International standard mounting type & Post mounting type
4. Compatable adapter : K1, K2, L1, L2, L3

Next: can we buy pads for these?
(other than in bulk from alibaba or aliexpress)


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Nice Bike! I come close to getting a beast before ordering my On One. Probably would have gotten the Dolemite...sure looks to be a big improvement. I know what you are talking about in needing the upright position...it's all about comfort to me. I've change the bars of my Sawyer & Kona to Metropolis bars & ordered the On One with the On One Marys ....45 degree sweeps. Use to have adjustable stems on them also. Got a long set back seat post from Velo Orange on my Kona. Just got a tall nitto stem for my road bike for more upright riding on it! I've never cared that much about weight until I got this fat bike though....Just got it within a 1/2 lb of my Sawyer at 33lbs. Just makes it easy throwing it in the back of the truck. Fatty carbon fork coming in April!



You should have no problem getting it under 40lbs.
I'm about to order the 40+ lb Massif for my daughter...hopefully I can nock about 10 off of it!


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

kris7047th said:


> Umm .. I didn't spend $2,000. Got this way cheaper through REI, kids gave me a REI $200 gift card for Christmas, already had $111 coming back from REI in year end dividends AND since I ordered this bike days before Jan 1 and financed the bike on my REI Visa card I got 15% kick back dividend around $260 on top of everything else to cash out this month to apply to the bill. So after all was applied the final amount was around $1,100 for a $1,750 bike (including tax)
> You just have to know how to work it to save big on a better bike.
> 
> I don't make a lot either .. retired on Soc Sec and drawing on an annuity to supplement. But I won't waste my money on a bike that won't last long. Did that before and learned my lesson .. was a wasted $200 plus bike that I rode maybe five times. It was not a fun bike to ride. I hated it. Had I the opportunity to test ride it .. I never would have bought it.


I don't know if your persistence is because you love your bike so much that you think everyone should have one or because you are just so damn thick headed.

Whether you realize it or not, you are being an elitist.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

I was done after that post anyways. 

Back to the original topic and my original post in it. 

Nice bike dude, for $225 I may pic one up myself when they get back in stock.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

kjlued said:


> for $225 I may pic one up myself when they get back in stock.


Looks like they are back in stock but the price went up $75
26" Mongoose Dolomite Mens Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

kjlued said:


> Man, for $225 I may pick one of those up myself if they ever come back in.
> I can't justify Pugsly money for the couple times a year I might ride a fat bike but I can justify $225.


Too late. Dolomite on Walmart website is $299 now! Walmart appears to be playing Economics 101 supply and demand games. Well, guess what... customers looking at this bike are price sensitive and will not pay the new price.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

That sucks but I have seen some fluctuations in price on the beast. 
Sometimes The Walmart site will even list the same items multiple times at different prices. 
It may come back down. 

They could be raising the price to create a false sale. 

I am in no rush anyways.


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## Tracer650 (Nov 19, 2012)

At $225 they had to be losing money. Plus I'm sure the bicycle buyers for Walmart are actual bicycle people. They probably visit these forums and are reading this thread


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

It sold out in three days. If you were the seller, what would you do? Probably be thinking - jackpot!!


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Tracer650 said:


> At $225 they had to be losing money. Plus I'm sure the bicycle buyers for Walmart are actual bicycle people. They probably visit these forums and are reading this thread
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


I highly doubt they were losing money at $225. If they wanted to price it higher they should have done it from the beginning. By introducing it at $$225 they set a price floor and customer expectations. And now we wait for the price to go back down.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kjlued said:


> ... It may come back down. ...


Don't count on seeing $225 again. 
Look at the parts on a Beast, now add shifter, derailer, gears, disc brake hubs, discs, calipers & mounts, brake levers & cables.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

What happened to "Save money, live better."

We all want to live better.


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## fos'l (May 27, 2009)

Glad the price went up; now it'll be a little easier to eschew something I don't need in socal.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

It will probably go on sale at some point in the future but that weak freewheel axle, cheesy BB/crankset and ridiculously heavy tires make it useless to me even as a "project" bike. 
The new low end fatties from Bikesdirict coming out this summer are a much better investment IMO.


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

I agree, if you are going to try and upgrade it, you are kind of shooting yourself in the foot. 
If you want a cheap bike, get a cheap bike, ride it and love it for what it is. Just don't try and turn it in to an expensive bike. 

Now if you have old parts laying around collecting dust as many of us do then sure, put them to good use.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dieseli said:


> Can the stickers be removed?
> How long is the seatpost? Is it 27.2mm?


Stickers can be removed. 
But once you get the bike in front of you, stop and look first. They're nicely done and make a great contrast to the paint. Once off, you can't put them back on. 
(I always remove the stickers from bikes, even before I grease the bearings and adjust the brakes. These I've left on. This probably won't last, but I can't bring myself to do it.)

Seat post measures 10.5" below the seat clamp.
Post is labelled 028. The diameter of the painted seat post measures between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm (to nearest .05).


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## kjlued (Jun 23, 2011)

I am guessing he is more interested in removing the stickers so people don't know it is a Mongoose and looks/contrast have little to di with it.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

kjlued said:


> I am guessing he is more interested in removing the stickers so people don't know it is a Mongoose and looks/contrast have little to di with it.


No, he removes the stickers so you wont cry when he rides past you on the trail and you realize he only paid $225, while your pedaling $8k of depreciating expectations.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

GiantTrek said:


> No, he removes the stickers so you wont cry when he rides past you on the trail and you realize he only paid $225, while your pedaling $8k of depreciating expectations.
> 
> View attachment 876350


Pugsley decal set is only $15, so you can have a Dologley or Pugsmite for $240.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

BTW, there is a video on YouTube of a guy removing stickers from the Dolo and it is very easy. Once removed they are done for...


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Canoe said:


> Stickers can be removed.
> But once you get the bike in front of you, stop and look first. They're nicely done and make a great contrast to the paint. Once off, you can't put them back on.
> (I always remove the stickers from bikes, even before I grease the bearings and adjust the brakes. These I've left on. This probably won't last, but I can't bring myself to do it.)Seat post measures 10.5" below the seat clamp.
> Post is labelled 028. The diameter of the painted seat post measures between 28.35mm and 28.50mm, typically 28.45mm (to nearest .05).


It looks like the post diameter is 28.6mm, the same as on the Beast. I have some 27.2mm seatposts that I will shim. Amazingly enough I found the exact shim size I need in my parts bin. No beer can will be harmed for this.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Tunalic said:


> Looks like they are back in stock but the price went up $75
> 26" Mongoose Dolomite Mens Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red: Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com


wow
At $299.97 the Dolo is out of stock online already.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

And the Beast gone again too...


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Canoe said:


> And the Beast gone again too...


you can get the Dozer from eBay, rakuten or toys r us for 187.49.
Toys r us has a $10 coupon too. Very good deal.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Hopefully they don't up the price of the dolo anymore. I really don't think they can.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Mongoose Dolomite Fat-bike - First Impressions - Randy & Nova's Bicycle Scrapbook


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Sold out in three days at original price. Raised price $75 and sold out again in a day. Boys, I think they struck a gusher. 

Looks like a lot of people were eager to get into fat biking at an affordable price point.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*My Mongoose Dolomite 26" - w/ fenders, 21-speed & front derailleur..*

The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description on the Walmart site.

Below I've attached some photos of what I've done so far w/my 26" Mongoose Dolomite... These include: 
-added a 3-chain-ring crank. (now 21-speed. Cheap steel Next brand with 28-38-48 tooth rings.)
- Added a front derailleur. (Fabricated from old stock 3-ring derailleurs - be sure not to use any with shorter "bails"(?) made for 2-ring cranks...)
- Made & installed some fenders.
- Added a bottle cage.
- Added a clamp to hold a hand pump on the seat tube. (This needs to be a bigger, high-volume hand pump!)

With this setup I have some chain rub on rear tire. Fender stays are made from 12-gauge galvanized wire (9-gauge wire would be stiffer).The fenders are fabricated from plastic landscape edging (6 inches originally w/the top & bottom removed for a 4 inch wide piece of flat stock...). Threading & routing the stays was a bit of a chore / conundrum - I only had to drill two small holes at each side on the rear of frame to fasten the wire stays w/small screws & nuts.


----------



## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

rotaidalg said:


> OK, a couple of points & then some pics...
> 1) This was only $225 - not $299. (Because of no sales tax in Montana?)
> 2) The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description.
> 
> ...


Hey fellow Missoulian I think you can get some better cranks (from freecycles) that might stick out more and eliminate the chain rub issue. PM me if you need a hand.
$299 is the (new) price on that contraption BTW, will probably go on "sale" for $249.95 when the next container arrives from China.

I still have no idea how they can manufacture/ship a bike so large and heavy to your door so cheap... boggles my mind!


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## Tracer650 (Nov 19, 2012)

Because fed ex or ups is giving them a great rate due to volume. Planes, trucks and trains have to move regardless if their full or not. Pretty sure the carrier would rather have them full.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

dieseli said:


> Pugsley decal set is only $15, so you can have a Dologley or Pugsmite for $240.


Don't remove the decals... you should be proud of what you have. Putting other bike decals on just screams "this is what I really wanted but I suck at saving money". Taking them off says "I'm embarrassed". And everyone will know what you really have under your legs. Be proud of what you have.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

You sure seem to really like :madman:
We get who you are. You don't have to keep showing us, over and over. And over. And over.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

I can't believe how fast these things are flying off the shelves...


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Canoe said:


> You sure seem to really like :madman:
> We get who you are. You don't have to keep showing us, over and over. And over. And over.


Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.


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## puchcobra (Nov 6, 2013)

duggus said:


> Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.


just report this user thats what i do then use ignore


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

duggus said:


> Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't? It's a valid point. Be proud of what you have and leave the decals on. Otherwise you just look ashamed.





> You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to duggus again.


:thumbsup:


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## buckfiddious (Nov 14, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> OK, a couple of points & then some pics...
> 1) This was only $225 - not $299. (Because of no sales tax in Montana?)
> 2) The frame IS ALL STEEL - despite "aluminum/steel" in the description.
> 
> ...


Those are simultaneously the most craptacular AND awesome fenders I have ever seen in my life- Absolutely brilliant idea. My grandfather, who believed that there was nothing in life that couldn't be fixed with bailing wire, would salute you. Ride the hell out of that thing!

And that front derailleur is amazing.

I stand in awe at your bodging stuff together skills. Seriously, amazing work.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

duggus said:


> Don't remove the decals... you should be proud of what you have. Putting other bike decals on just screams "this is what I really wanted but I suck at saving money". Taking them off says "I'm embarrassed". And everyone will know what you really have under your legs. Be proud of what you have.


I doubt somebody in the market for this bike will spend $15 on stickers to make it something that it is not.


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## dieseli (Nov 13, 2008)

Does anybody know the front hub spacing? 
The rear I think is 190mm?


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

If I got a Pugsley I would put Mongoose stickers on it so no one would steal it!


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

I would definitely spend 15$ on stickers, I plan too when I get mine. Most likely going to get custom stickers made. I'm prolly going to drop around 200 into the bike, as well as drilling out the wheels.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> Is there a double-standard? Other people get to say stupid comments but I can't?


Nope.
If you're willing to repeatedly remind people what you are, go for it. :thumbsup:


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

puchcobra said:


> just report this user thats what i do then use ignore


Yet you are still obsessing over my posts?? But we do have one thing in common... *I reported you too* for that VERY CREEPY post where you found a video I had online of my son. You by far take the cake on most creepy person I have ran across on MTBR. So congrats stalking creep.

Anyway... Enjoy your Dolomites. And to the level headed people who say they are just getting one to try and don't have a problem upgrading some day... thumbs up! :thumbsup: There needs to be more of you and less of the haters who can't stand a different opinion than theirs. Bikes! It's serious business!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dieseli said:


> Does anybody know the front hub spacing?
> The rear I think is 190mm?


Can't get a precise measurement without pulling the wheel, but a rough measurement indicates a 135mm front and a 190mm rear.

I don't know if the front tabs are for a 135 rear or a 135 front.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Yup. 135 front, 190 rear


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> ...And to the level headed people who say they are just getting one to try and don't have a problem upgrading some day...


You expect people to make decisions on only a duggas-approved basis?

While it would be a delight to have such a super uber high quality bike as you and your family presumably have, it is not required for what I and apparently a number of others need or want a fat bike for. Sorry that you're upset that we don't have the same requirement as you, or the funds to indulge in more bike than we need, but you'd likely stay further away from a stroke or heart attack if you chilled a little. Look after yourself so you can continue to enjoy life.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/be...acement-901788-post11052429.html#post11052429

As past behavior is the greatest predictor of future behavior, I'm likely wasting my efforts in your direction, but at least you're "approving" the try-fat reason now, so perhaps there's hope.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Canoe said:


> But not for what's in your avatar, right?


Heh, no. this will stay a lot closer to the ground.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> dirtdawg21892 said:
> 
> 
> > thank you so much for the pictures and info, it has swayed me. i will totally pick one of these up if i get the chance.
> ...


Thank you!
You didn't get back before now and you had me a little worried.


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## ShartRate (Feb 15, 2013)

Well aren't you a peach


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

This thread is sponsored by Brawndo the Thirst Mutilator.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

What about the bike?


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## buckfiddious (Nov 14, 2011)

puchcobra said:


> you have zero comprehension zip nada i asked if that was a walmart toy bike that you bought for your baby mama. youtube is not creepin its public. you should know what you put out there, if not dont play poker if you cant read the room


Houston, we have a problem...

over. the. line.


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## Nail Every Trail (Sep 28, 2012)

Awesome thread. I totally want one of these as soon as they come back in stock. I own a house in Maine we use for for snowboarding and some mountain biking in the summer. I keep a crappy hybrid bike in my shed up there to use to ride around town. This would be much more fun. I could even use it in the winter on the xc trails near my house. I've had my eye on fat bikes for 2 years now, but I just won't use one to justify spending a minimum of $1k. But for less than 300 bucks this would be ideal. I could get rid of the crappy hybrid and use this instead. When the winter comes I could ride this a few times a year when I have a down day at the mountain. Maybe in the summer I could ride on some of the snowmobile/atv trails to mix it up. This would not be primary bike, so for such little money it would be a blast to have. Also, in Maine nobody cares what kind of bike you own. No bike snobs around! Thanks for all the info/links/pics!


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*I Agree, Mr. Doom!*



Mr. Doom said:


> Hey fellow Missoulian I think you can get some better cranks (from freecycles) that might stick out more and eliminate the chain rub issue. PM me if you need a hand.
> $299 is the (new) price on that contraption BTW, will probably go on "sale" for $249.95 when the next container arrives from China.
> 
> I still have no idea how they can manufacture/ship a bike so large and heavy to your door so cheap... boggles my mind!


I couldn't believe the "free shipping" either - thought I'd need to do a "ship to store" instead... I thought about either shimming the rear axle a bit on the leftside but figured it would "unbalance" the disk brake setup. In the end it just isn't that big a deal - 1 area (about 3" long) of the rear tire right side is slightly bulged - the rest of the "rub" is just the little rubber knobs from the molding process - I actually usually stay 3rd-sprocket to small or middle chain-ring - pretty much like I ride my old Schwinn High-Plains "road" bike... I KNOW the gear-inches have to be higher due to larger outside diameter of those big tires - but it just hasn't been too noticeable yet. (The gyroscope effect of all that rotating mass sure is noticeable though! Gil at Missoula Free-Cycle thought I'd an over-tight headset!  I let Gil test it out yesterday afternoon while I helped a neighbor set up a small bike for his son.)


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

rotaidalg said:


> I couldn't believe the "free shipping" either - thought I'd need to do a "ship to store" instead... I thought about either shimming the rear axle a bit on the leftside but figured it would "unbalance" the disk brake setup. In the end it just isn't that big a deal - 1 area (about 3" long) of the rear tire right side is slightly bulged - the rest of the "rub" is just the little rubber knobs from the molding process - I actually usually stay 3rd-sprocket to small or middle chain-ring - pretty much like I ride my old Schwinn High-Plains "road" bike... I KNOW the gear-inches have to be higher due to larger outside diameter of those big tires - but it just hasn't been too noticeable yet. (The gyroscope effect of all that rotating mass sure is noticeable though! Gil at Missoula Free-Cycle thought I'd an over-tight headset!  I let Gil test it out yesterday afternoon while I helped a neighbor set up a small bike for his son.)


I can see Gil rocking it on one of those at bike polo...


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

Facebook has group called Mongoose Fatbikes that discusses the Beast & Dolomite as well. https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/

some good upgrade info & mods people have done. just wish it was in stock online to buy. and at $225 price 

Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

Price is up to 350$....still sold out. I wonder how much they're going to raise it.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Canoe said:


> While it would be a delight to have such a super uber high quality bike as you and your family presumably have, it is not required for what I and apparently a number of others need or want a fat bike for.


Let's be clear... I worked and saved up for every bike that I have and my girlfriend did the same. I've built my 29er and Moonlander up from frame... over the course of a year, and added new things as money would allow. I work full time AND run my own design biz on the side to make money to support the things I like. I could get into a society rant here about how no one wants to work or save for anything anymore... but I won't.

SO SORRY that I told you your stem was on wrong and backwards... that was so terrible of me, right? I take it back... that is the correct way to set up a bike and is awesome. I'm sure the stem on backwards geometry won't hurt your back or cause any further damage. Ride on cowboy.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

duggus said:


> I've built my 29er and Moonlander up from frame... over the course of a year, and added new things as money would allow.


What part of "Not everyone's requirements match your own" don't you understand?


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

dgw2jr said:


> What part of "Not everyone's requirements match your own" don't you understand?


I was clarifying how I obtained my quote "super uber high quality bikes" (A steel Moonlander? Jesus, it's not like I'm on a carbon fatty) and pointing out how hard work can get you the "better" things in life. I started mountain biking on a Schwinn. It was a pile and I new that, but I didn't go into forums claiming it was the holy grail of bikes and everyone else who spent more was idiots. I new it was crap. I saved up and got a little better bike. Rode that, sold it, saved up more and got even better... etc etc.

*And I've said many times I don't give an absolute crap what you guys ride... but I have every right to defend myself against ridiculous comments. *


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

OK .. my last post on this. I have back issues that required surgery several years ago, bad knees too. Has anyone given thought to if you have physical health issues that limit capabilities like me that an overly HEAVY bike might cause you further injury? I know I would have problems trying to safely manage a bike that heavy over obstacles, bumps in the road .. could be an accident waiting. Something to think about. Just be happy and SAFE with your ride.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> ...*And I've said many times I don't give an absolute crap what you guys ride... *


And yet you keep posting the same or similar over and over. 
In threads you say aren't worth your time, yet you keep spending time.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

duggus said:


> ...SO SORRY that I told you your stem was on wrong and backwards... that was so terrible of me, right? I take it back... that is the correct way to set up a bike and is awesome. I'm sure the stem on backwards geometry won't hurt your back or cause any further damage. Ride on cowboy.


This again?

You made a knee-jerk post, shooting from the hip with a cutting post, without bothering to read my whole post (the very first of this thread), where clearly under the photo was my apologizing for having the stem on backwards, and explaining why I did so.


Canoe said:


> (sorry the stem is 180 out, I have back problems)


You made a duffus out of yourself with a cutting comment. Too late, too bad, so sad. It's over. Move on. You're free! Fly! Go live! It Doesn't matter. 
No skin off my back, but do you really want to (need to?) keep reminding people of what you did? Is this healthy?


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## gatorgrizz27 (Feb 12, 2011)

Gigantic said:


> If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.


Oh please. A $1,000 fat bike just isn't worth even trying to a lot of people, whether they can afford it or not. This opens the door and lets people try it out. Given the way fat bikes are typically ridden you actually think this thing is "dangerous and likely to kill someone?" Hell, if the head tube snapped off the frame at 10mph on a slightly bumpy sandy trail, your feet will hit the ground, stumble, and you will hop over the broken fork and be fine, similar to catching a foot on a vine trail jogging. The thing isn't a DH bike.

The real shame is they kept jacking the price up. At $350 I would say the potential buyers are now 10-20% of what they were at $230, which means it will likely only be produced for a year before its discontinued due to "lack of sales". I kind of wish I had snapped one up instead of building up my single speed.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

I agree w/the part about low-speed accidents. Personally I'm not going to do any radical riding- I just wanted to determine if one of these types. Of bikes can actually replace the role & mobiliy of a horse (freshly plowed fields, truly "off road" (or trail), etc.
? Bombing down-hill @ high speeds, popping wheelies, jumping - none of these for me.I first test-rode a Salsa Mukluk back in 2011- was intirgued by the concept but knew I couldn't justify the price of a used car for something I didn't really need or even knew if I would like... I think $350 isn't beyond most folk's means - but I AM glad I got one for $225!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Back in stock...
$349.97

Wonder how many they have up for sale.


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## gatorgrizz27 (Feb 12, 2011)

$350 isn't beyond most folks means, but I do believe it is about the point where it is above the value/risk. The $200 range is still "disposable income" to most, where if it turns out to be crap or they just don't like it it's not a huge loss. Exceed that number by much and it quickly turns into a case of "just spend the extra little bit" and get a real/trusted fatbike from bikes direct/nashbar, instead of a "toy", which will hold its resale value better if nothing else.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.

Info from them:



> FATBIKE TIRE SPECIAL
> 
> For loyal followers/newsletter members only:
> 
> ...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

wow
~$70 a pair!
Just took a look, and I'm seeing reports on the Mission at 1370g to 1420g.
And a Vee8 at 1870g, but that was an early one.

The tire on my Beast is 2829g and my Dolo tires look identical (haven't pulled one to weigh it yet).

120 tpi will certainly roll better and be lighter than those pigs on the Dolo and Beast.

The On-One Floater at 120tpi lists as 1670g. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/other-kind-clownshoe-now-available-903274.html

I know On-One Floater deal costs more than that VeeRubber deal, and weird colours, but any idea about performance differences?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dolo crank arm: 170mm, 219g
They look a step up from Beast arms.

Stock pedal: 197g

That's 832g in arms & pedals. 1.83 lbs.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Canoe said:


> And a Vee8 at 1870g, but that was an early one.


Yeah that was the earlier versions at 60 tpi.

The new 120 tpi ones are around 1350 - 1400 grams. I ordered a set for some dirt use.


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## 02_NRS (Jan 27, 2004)

*comment;*



duggus said:


> Handle bars and stem on backwards. Brilliant.


bad back genius.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

02_NRS said:


> bad back genius.


Over and done with already genius.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Drive side: 
pedal, crank arm, spider & *chain ring (36T)* with plastic chainring guard each side, for 648g.

Non-drive side: 
crank arm & pedal, 219g + 197g for 416g.

Total: 1064g, or 2.35 lbs.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Tire Weight Savings

Dolo stock: two tires (2829g x 2) & two tubes (705g x 2) = 7068g, or 15.58 lbs.

Let's assume worst case of 1400g for the VeeRubber Vee8 or Mission, and Q-tubes downhill 26x2.75 at 390g. Two tires (1400g x 2) & two tubes (390g x 2) = 3580g, or 7.89 lbs.

weight reduction of 3580g, or 7.60 lbs.

So, that reduced weight would take a stock Dolo from 49 lbs. to 41.3 lbs., and you get a lower roll resistance (a supple 120 tpi tire & a more supple tube), ~$70 plus tubes.

good find duggus!


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## jekyll2003 (Jan 30, 2010)

duggus said:


> If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.
> 
> Info from them:


Hey duggus, what facebook page are you looking at for Bikes Direct? I am not seeing anything on any Bikes Direct facebook page. I like the deal, but would want to pull the trigger if it is not legit.
Thanks


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

jekyll2003 said:


> Hey duggus, what facebook page are you looking at for Bikes Direct? ...


Some hours after duggus's post I saw the info posted at another site too. 
I just checked right now and it's still up on facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikesdirect/122199864367


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

The $349.97 Walmart Mongoose Dolomite is turning up on a certain online auction site as a "Fat Tire Bicycle" and a "Fat Tire Mountain Bike". Asking over $500.

No mention of Walmart nor of Mongoose. Brand given as "Pacific Cycles". Photos are retouched to remove the bike name "Dolomite" and most photos have "Mongoose" retouched out. Quotes about fat bikes are used in the ads, and include some photos that are not the Dolomite. 

One of the sellers is also listing the $200 Walmart Mongoose Massif as a "Fat Tire Mountain Boys Bicycle" for near $400.

And there's a $200 Walmart Mongoose Beast painted camo up as a "Fat Tire Bicycle Cruiser" for near $600, appears to be stock except for the paint and the seat. 

sigh...


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

I would wait until the Gravity fatbikes from Bikesdirect hit the shore.

Pre-Order is getting a slow start but their Facebook page claimed these prices a while ago. 
Bullseye Monster $499
Deadeye Monster $449
Deadeye $399


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## jekyll2003 (Jan 30, 2010)

Canoe said:


> Some hours after duggus's post I saw the info posted at another site too.
> I just checked right now and it's still up on facebook.
> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikesdirect/122199864367


Thanks. I found it too. Bikes Direct has 2 FB pages, one has not been updated since 2011. The page is Bikesdirect no spaces.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

At sub $300 I would buy the Dolo just to cruise around with the grandkids and run the dog. At $349 I think it's a stretch. I don't want a full price high zoot fatbike. So what's driving up the price? Greed or supply and demand? I think I already answered my own question.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Flash said:


> ...So what's driving up the price? Greed or supply and demand?...


Or they needed to slow sales down so the staff at the shipping depot could go home to get a shower and some sleep.
(kidding)


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

duggus said:


> If you guys are interested in lightening these up a bunch in the tire area... I just noticed this on Bikes Direct facebook page... $70 for a PAIR. The Vee8's are something around 1350 grams a piece... and the Missions are more.
> 
> Info from them:


Thanks for the tip!

Ordering up..


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

the bikes direct bikes can't run the 5 inch tire. and have a very funky asymetrical frame.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Can a dolomite run a 5" tire?


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*A few more things AND my tires are about 4.7" across - looks like room for 5"(?)*

Here's the latest little additions-tweaks...









I had to change the original front derailleur mount setup to get the derailleur more centered on the seat tube. Involved using another clamp (with a through-bolt setup) versus the previous clamp (beefier clamp but with a smaller and shorter bolt/screw at the clamp.)

































Here is a cheap aluminum rear rack that I've owned for years (says Schwinn on it but I think it was after the original company sold-out to Pacific(?) or some other large international conglomerate.) I had to "thin the herd" for the wife so I re-donated the cheapo (bike theft is pretty prevalent here in Missoula... it really doesn't "pay" to have a nice bike.. :\ ) "campus bike" I'd built up last year for getting to college in Missoula. I just kept the rack from off that bike. I just bent the down-stays to clear the tire width and used an old weed-eater clamp and a clamp from an old broken MTB thumb-shifter as my seat stay clamps. The seat stay diameters are the same as most "standard" handle bars - convenient! I ended up hanging the front of the rack from the seat clamp through-bolt as the drop to the seat tube clamp was too steep and put the rack way out of level.









I'm not sure about the Gear-inches chart - I used the one Sheldon Brown had created. This was with the stock 14-28 rear freewheel sprocket set. I might try to put on one of the "Megarange" Shimano units (14-34...) I can get one free at Free-Cycle Missoula... ( Free Cycles )


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

rotaidalg said:


> Here's the latest little additions-tweaks...
> View attachment 877923
> View attachment 877924
> View attachment 877925
> ...


I have the Shimano "megarange" 14 to 34 in back with a 23 granny gear up front, and it works good in the snow. The 34 is used more often than I would have thought. Anything solid, and I quickly run out of gears and switch to the 32 up front.

Love the mega though -


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

*Dolomite Self Steer*

My stock Beast had huge self steer on all surfaces and a healthy gyroscope effect when turning; distracting by times. That was greatly improved to rarely self steer and minimal gyro, with a 47mm trials rim in front with an Endo or Larry. Stock rim in front with a Larry was in between, and quite ride-able.

Dolomite, stock:
little if any self steer on pavement
minimal self steer on packed snow
self steer in fresh snow, but very smooth and stable
minimal feeling of gyroscope effect when turning.
wtf?

Can the geometry make _that_ much difference?

(no dirt to test it on - all snow)


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

Wow... BikeMan has outdone Bikes Direct on price! Not that the Missions are that great of tires and you can find them used all over... but not terrible, and can't get much better of a deal than this.

DEAL OF THE DAY
$24.99 Fat Bike Tires!!!
48% off the Vee Rubber Mission 26x4.0
Bikeman Vee Mission 26x4.0 Black Folding


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That's a great price. Looks like bike man has 60tpi and bikes direct were 120tpi. But still a great deal!


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

60TPI... but yes... crazy deal. Wow... really shows you what markup has to be if they are still making a slight profit on these. I'm guessing VeeTire is practically giving them away though with all their new tires coming out. I'm going to speculate that the Mission and Vee8 are possibly going to be discontinued and that is why these specials are coming out.


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

im trying to decide weather i should get the gravity bullseye or Dolomite

i was hoping any Dolomite owner can answer my questions, 

is the Dolomite frame and fork alluminum or steel ?
whats the rear dropout spacing. and front spacing?
how many spokes do the rims have?
whats the BB legnth?
is the fork threadless 1 1/8?
what size is the seat post?

im think about buying either one and just keep the frame fork and rims upgrade everything else completely. thanks


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Steel Frame and Fork
190 rear 135 front
36
about 175mm
1 1/8 threadless
28.6

Personally I think the Gravity is a better buy. And I really like the Mongeese...


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

thanks very much for the input, do you know how much it weights? since its all steel and heavy, i dont think the Dolomite is nimble. 

the Bottom bracket shell width is 175mm? wow thats wide. do manufacturers make spindles that long ?

my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

akacoke said:


> im trying to decide weather i should get the gravity bullseye or Dolomite
> 
> i was hoping any Dolomite owner can answer my questions,
> 
> ...


it's about 50#


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

akacoke said:


> my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget


Dropping 15lbs from a Dolomite is doable, depends on your budget.

Im doing something similar with a Beast right now. But ill have more into it than a gravity when I'm done. For me the build is half the fun though...


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

My budget is about $1200 total for the complete build. dont get me wrong, i can probably get an used surly or salsa for that much but i will still end up updating everything too. since i dont really care about brand name, i figure why not just start with a cheaper bike/frame. 

is the rear hub a freewheel or cassette?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

akacoke said:


> ...my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget


There's lighter parts for not too much money, but if you want the lightest...
Between quality light 120 tpi tires, tubes, stem, bars & crankset, you should be able to be awfully near 35 lbs.. But you're likely to spend more than the bike costs to get there. (example, a pair of 120 tpi Nates is 2 x $150). *And you'll still have a frame without gussets with not the greatest welds and bottom end brakes.* If you start replacing hubs, spokes & gears too, all in, parts and a Dolo could end up at three times the cost of the Dolo. Better ways to spend that money.

*What do intend to use the bike for? *
As in, light is nice, but how much bike do you need? There's many end goals where a Dolo is not the place to start from.

Edit: $1200 budget. I would never start with a Dolo. 
And depending on your intended usage, compared to a "real" fat bike, it would be downright dangerous. 
I suggest you check the other threads, or start your own "Have $1,200, and want a fat bike for ______, what should I be looking at?"


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

*My post from another thread (the wrong one)*

So I got my Dolomite yesterday. The box was in good shape and other than a few, barely noticeable scratches, it's in great shape.
My initial impression (as it was for The Beast) was that the tires stank to high hell. It went together fairly quickly. Didn't have to adjust the rear derailleur at all, but the brakes needed some attention. The brakes also didn't work initially, but after putting a couple miles on them, I can tell they're starting to break in, so I'm sure they'll be fine.
The tires and tubes are heavy junk and I replaced them with some Missions and lighter tubes I had laying around. I also swapped the bars/stem with a much lighter set I had, so it's now at a svelte 42lbs.
The gearing is a bit tall, but should be fine for just cruising around Folsom Lake and what not. I bought it so my girlfriend would have something to tool around on.
The only other thing I may do is drill out the rims.
Bottom line, for $224, it's a steal. At $349 (where it's priced now) not so much.
This bike is cool, but if this was the only fatbike I was going to own, I would definitely get something nicer.


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

Canoe said:


> There's lighter parts for not too much money, but if you want the lightest...
> Between quality light 120 tpi tires, tubes, stem, bars & crankset, you should be able to be awfully near 35 lbs.. But you're likely to spend more than the bike costs to get there. (example, a pair of 120 tpi Nates is 2 x $150). *And you'll still have a frame without gussets with not the greatest welds and bottom end brakes.* If you start replacing hubs, spokes & gears too, all in, parts and a Dolo could end up at three times the cost of the Dolo. Better ways to spend that money.
> 
> *What do intend to use the bike for? *
> ...


yeah, i sort of realized that Dolo is not the best platform to modified. this would be my only fat bike, garage can only fit so many bikes, ill have to sell my DJ to make room and free up some money to build it.

what i have in mind is a cool cruiser turns some heads in town, and some XC riding. no serious trail riding. ill leave that to my suspension bikes.
here is what i want basically. good reliable frame that i like. hope hubs 170/135. good drilled rims. 2 sets of tires one knobby set for trail. one slick set for street. hope tech m4 brakes. some good crankset. 1x9 saint or 1x10 zee. obviously for the budget these are some fancy parts , so ill have to hunt for deals on used parts.

i think ill wait around till i sell my DJ to see what options are. ill probably get one from bikedirect anyways.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

akacoke said:


> ... what i have in mind is a cool cruiser turns some heads in town, and some XC riding. no serious trail riding. ill leave that to my suspension bikes...


Warning!!!
Once you try fat, with the fat tire suspension, you may find you end up going for a "real" fat bike with quality tires, brakes, etc. and a suspension fork. Your suspension bikes may gather more garage dust than you anticipate.

Before you spend any money, make sure you test ride a "real" fat bike or two, or three. Different frames, rims, tires, etc., can feel rather different. There's a lot of threads for you to read.

p.s. the right knobby and it does fine for street too, you've got fat air in there


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

akacoke said:


> my goal is to build a fatbike around 35lbs on a budget


Have you looked at the Framed Minnesota fat bikes? I believe they are about 35 lbs stock and under a grand.

On Sale Fat Bikes


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Warning!!!
> Once you try fat, with the fat tire suspension, you may find you end up going for a "real" fat bike with quality tires, brakes, etc. and a suspension fork. Your suspension bikes may gather more garage dust than you anticipate.
> 
> Before you spend any money, make sure you test ride a "real" fat bike or two, or three. Different frames, rims, tires, etc., can feel rather different. There's a lot of threads for you to read.
> ...


yes, yes, this is exactly what i was thinking. thats why i want to build it with all the goodies listed in my early comment. fat bike tires can go over terrains and its not heavy. i dont see why it wouldnt be a good trail bike if built right. its a very good idea to demo some fat bike like you said to see how i like them.



duggus said:


> Have you looked at the Framed Minnesota fat bikes? I believe they are about 35 lbs stock and under a grand.
> 
> On Sale Fat Bikes


i saw those during research last night. honestly, i think they dont have better value to me then the bike direct ones , considering ill upgrade everything. and i dont like how the downtube its curved slightly at the headtube.


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## tomcat85 (May 29, 2012)

akacoke, i'll be doing the same thing in the near future. hoping its worth it.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Shimano Megarange Freewheel (13-34) hub on my Mongoose Dolomite..*



akacoke said:


> My budget is about $1200 total for the complete build. dont get me wrong, i can probably get an used surly or salsa for that much but i will still end up updating everything too. since i dont really care about brand name, i figure why not just start with a cheaper bike/frame.
> 
> is the rear hub a freewheel or cassette?


FREEWHEEL hub...
I just put a Shimano Megarange (13-34 tooth iteration - that's NOT a typo - this has 13 vs. 14 teeth on the small sprocket!?!) to replace the stock 14-28 tooth Freewheel hub on mine two nights ago.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

I picked up a BikesDirect Fantom Pro a while back ($995). Outside of putting on some new tires, (cheap ones, at that), grips and replacing the big ring with a bashguard and swapping the bars out, it's stock and comes in at 35.5lbs. 
It's a great bike for the money and doesn't really need a lot of upgrading.


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

cool, looks like Dolos are back in stock again at $350 plus tax.


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> I picked up a BikesDirect Fantom Pro a while back ($995). Outside of putting on some new tires, (cheap ones, at that), grips and replacing the big ring with a bashguard and swapping the bars out, it's stock and comes in at 35.5lbs.
> It's a great bike for the money and doesn't really need a lot of upgrading.
> View attachment 878684


hey man, thanks for sharing, thats a nice looking bike, i like the fantom frame much better . i think ill go with that eventually. what size is your frame?


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

akacoke said:


> hey man, thanks for sharing, thats a nice looking bike, i like the fantom frame much better . i think ill go with that eventually. what size is your frame?


It's a 17". I actually ordered a 19", but they got shorted, so I got a $50 discount for getting the smaller size. FYI, I'm 6'1" with a 32" inseam and I love the way it fits. I'm glad I ended up with the 17" rather than the 19".


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## akacoke (May 11, 2011)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> It's a 17". I actually ordered a 19", but they got shorted, so I got a $50 discount for getting the smaller size. FYI, I'm 6'1" with a 32" inseam and I love the way it fits. I'm glad I ended up with the 17" rather than the 19".


few questions : do the headset, hubs and bottom bracket have sealed bearings? is the rear hub loud? ( compare to hope pro 2) whats the front and rear hub spacing?

do you mind posting more pictures if you have them? thanks


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Finished w/Mods for a bit(?)... (Tire PSI issues...)*

Done w/mods & "upgrades"(?) for now.  Going on a longer ride today...









Turns out the 25 PSI was OK for my rear tire as long as it stayed below 32 degrees F! At 40+ degrees and with sunshine the rear tire blew off the right side (in a later post as well...) With this much volume expansion is a definate factor with the fat tires!  (I'd made two other 7.4 mile round trips previously at 25 PSI with no issues - great road rolling / low resistance - but it was colder then...)









Picture of a gear chart from Sheldon Brown's site (In gearinches). The Magarange low gear has me at about 24 gear-inches with a small chain-ring of 28 teeth. That's close to what you need for loaded touring climbs, etc.


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## jekyll2003 (Jan 30, 2010)

Well I was one of the people that purchased the Dolomite at $349 last Sunday. I just saw that they dropped the price online to $299, but was still out of stock. I called walmart.com and since it was less than 7 days they honored the lower price and credited me. You can say all you want about Walmart, but I was pleased with the zero hassle for the refund on the price change.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

duggus said:


> Wow... BikeMan has outdone Bikes Direct on price! Not that the Missions are that great of tires and you can find them used all over... but not terrible, and can't get much better of a deal than this.
> 
> DEAL OF THE DAY
> $24.99 Fat Bike Tires!!!
> ...


I must have missed it. It's like $51 now


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

Update on attempted ride last week:
1) Rear tire sort of "blew off" to the right. (i mile from house)
2) Suspected problem; I inflated the rear tire to about 25 PSI (@20 degrees F) a few days previously. Had ridden on a couple 7 -mile round-trip rides already - however, the day the tire blew off the right side (un-beaded) it was sunny and mid forties.
3) Deflated rear tire, re-seated the right bead then hand-pumped (500+!) back to about 4 PSI. Limped a mile back home... 
4) Reset PSI to 21 PSI Front & Rear at 40+ degrees F. Re-rode about an 8-mile loop w/rough roads, high speed (down-hill on wash-boarded & potholed gravel road), etc. No more problems - THEN got sick, so yet to make the longer trip to town.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> Update on attempted ride last week:
> 1) Rear tire sort of "blew off" to the right. (i mile from house)
> 2) Suspected problem; I inflated the rear tire to about 25 PSI (@20 degrees F) a few days previously. Had ridden on a couple 7 -mile round-trip rides already - however, the day the tire blew off the right side (un-beaded) it was sunny and mid forties.
> 3) Deflated rear tire, re-seated the right bead then hand-pumped (500+!) back to about 4 PSI. Limped a mile back home...
> 4) Reset PSI to 21 PSI Front & Rear at 40+ degrees F. Re-rode about an 8-mile loop w/rough roads, high speed (down-hill on wash-boarded & potholed gravel road), etc. No more problems - THEN got sick, so yet to make the longer trip to town.


WAYYYY too much pressure.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dgw2jr said:


> WAYYYY too much pressure.


No kidding.

Did you see the video of the Dolomite out in the forest? Look where he goes over some rocks and then later some branches. Tires look next to rock hard... ouch. Better him than me.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

So I took out the girlfriend the beach the other day on the Dolomite (I was on my FB4). She absolutely LOVED it, which was pretty surprising, as she's very much a girly girl.
I'm really looking forward to spending more quality fat bike time with her.

Oh, and if anyone is looking to buy an FB4 Pro, I'm selling mine. I may or may not have accidentally bought a Specialized Fatboy today.

Ooops!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> Done w/mods & "upgrades"(?) for now.  Going on a longer ride today...


Close enough.
With the Dolo's tires @29.375":
your 28T driving 34T is 24.2 G.I. and 1.93 MOD; with 170mm the gain ratio is 1.81,
at the other end, 48T driving 13T is 108.5 G.I. and 8.66 MOD; 170mm for 8.10 gain ratio. 
your range is 348%.
Once you've figured out a good tire inflation, with your sitting on it on flat level pavement or concrete, have someone measure from the ground to the center of the rear axle, then double that to get a diameter for calculating the actual values.

Stock Dolo 36T, 37.8 through 75.5 G.I., 3.01 to 6.03 MOD, stock 170mm cranks give 2.82 to 5.64 gain ratio, range 100%

From a recycle bike place, I picked up a MF-TZ-31 14-34T and a MF-HG40 14-34T; I've no idea what their difference is. Passed on a MF-TZ-__ 13-34T that was a little rough. Got the recommended protector too.With 34T, I was given many warnings about making sure the derailler limit is set right to keep it out of the spokes.

With 14-34T on a stock Dolo, that'll give me 31.1 through 75.5 gear inches.

With a 22T/32T front, I can get that to 19.0 G.I. through 67.1 G.I.. 
Make it a triple to 42T and it's up to 88.1.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Rougher ride tonight...*

Rough ride tonight...
It was getting a bit dark but I took the Dolo for a ride on some gravel/sand roads I normally don't hit. Would have "washed out" on some of the curves tonight w/all the lose sand from the recent runoff! The tire pressures are good now (more stable temps & hitting the desired "max" at +40F works WAY better than at only +20F! LOTS of volume there to expand & contract! Should have "thunk" that one through a bit!) Anyway, it did pretty good on some seriously steep ascents & descents with washouts, holes, etc. Next I'd like to hit some "sage-brushy" open fields I saw the other night while visiting some friends - the sort of stuff I really want to analyse the whole fat-bike concept for - can I go where I would on a horse? (Yep, I KNOW it'll be slower, etc. - tried a "mixed" ride years ago w/a "typical" mountain bike on some trails w/the wife & daughter on their horses - not very "congruent" - bike way slow uphill & too fast downhill!) Anyway it was a nice "break" after building some garden boxes & I worked up a good sweat. I can hit good speeds on the downhills (gravely, sandy & pavement - lots of "breakup" right now...) and the bike seems responsive enough - no "control" issues. (probably 30~35 MPH max on the steep descents.)


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

Thanks for the technical info - I knew I was "off" a bit but was comparing 1x9 & 1x10 drive-trains w/my current setup. I saw some promising other 3-ring cranks at Free Cycle tonight when I took back the Shimano "Hyperglide" (NOT "Velocitor" - not sure where I came up w/that? Sorry!) w/24/34/44 rings.These had similar, smaller rings - I need to take the bike back to Missoula on the carrier next week (Spring Break! Whee!) and just do the swaps there on their stands. Hopefully it won't push out to far from the frame... :\


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ward said:


> ...One thing I do notice with folks just discovering fat biking, is that almost everyone starts out with WAY to much pressure for riding anything but pavement and often they're a little disappointed. I came across a guy w/ a brand new Mukluk on a local trail... was bouncin' all over the place. He said he'd "let them down" to 15psi. He's an experienced cyclist and thought that was "low" pressure. When I told him he needed to get them down into single digits he looked at me like I was nuts. Gauge might help the new comers get there a little quicker. I really like having one to get them up to 20ish for the pavement sections.


http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-faqs-498930.html


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## kris7047th (Dec 27, 2013)

Canoe said:


> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-faqs-498930.html


Why I started this thread for small pressure gauge. The Meiser gauge that I bought works great. I did later pick up a digital SKS gauge but I like the Meiser better.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/perfect-pressure-fat-bike-gauge-903065.html


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Wet Ride - 27Mar14 - Bitterroot Valley, Montana*

I tried to go where "the deer (but no antelope) play" - was a "no-go" for the sage-brushy/rocky/steep stuff...  I ended up staying on roads & an ATV track for the ride. About 45 degrees F. Rainy & sleety ("graupel" here in Missoula...) Tires were at about 16 PSI. Saw a fox, several mule deer, ospreys & hawks. Some Bob-whites... Sunny when I started but the left side of my head was numb by the time I got home - wind from the SW & rainy...






I couldn't make any headway as there were too many rocks hidden in the grass. Also it was real steep here. (I needed a lower gear yet than what I had with the Shimano Magarange (13-34) freewheel and the 28-38-48 front chain-rings.) I was trying to follow the mule-deer & elk trails on this hillside near Iron Cap on the east side of the Bitterroot Valley.






Looking South over Iron Cap. About 45 degrees F, windy with mixed rain and sleet ("graupel" here near Missoula, MT). I'm panning left to right in the following pics...






Now looking S, SW over Iron Cap.






Looking west






Now oriented North West... that's the "Big Ditch" at the bottom of the pic. Irrigation system on the East side of the valley - dry this time of year.






Looking East toward the Sapphire Mountains... tires for this ride were at 16 PSI. (contributed to my issues on the rocky terrain - wanted to "bounce" off rather than conform & climb over!)






Looking East down the Maintenance road along the irrigation ditch (gated road, so no vehicular traffic...)






End of ride. It was too wet to shear any more sheep today - so "played hooky" while the wife was in town w/her mom. Cold, hot & sweaty - all at one time! (My wife asks me "Why is this 'fun?!?'")


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> ...Tires were at about 16 PSI...





ward said:


> ...He said he'd "let them down" to 15psi. He's an experienced cyclist and thought that was "low" pressure. When I told him he needed to get them down into single digits he looked at me like I was nuts...


And the above was for tires less fat than yours.

Surly Pugsley 3.7 Deformation Over Obstacle - YouTube

Now try 12, 10, 8, 6.
Once you're close, vary it by one lbs., then a half.
Over time, you'll discover what works best (for that bike, those tires/tubes & your weight) on different terrain.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I'm 6'2" and geared up I weigh about 235 lbs. I have found that 10-12 psi works good for hard packed trails and pavement. 5-6 psi for snow, and 8-10 for sand.

Just my .02...


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Drive-train gear changes - yet again...*

Thanks, Canoe, for the straight dope on the gearing... for now I've yet to get that measurement on the rear diameter - so I defaulted again to the "29 w/2.3 in. tire" on Sheldon Brown's gear calculator...







Alivio crank w/ 24-34-42 chain rings - 175mm long cranks... KMC chain not a problem on "IG only chain-rings". Chain no longer rubs rear tire but I had to reconfigure my front derailleur setup.












New chart from Sheldon Brown's gear calculator. Shows gear inches...







No more chain rub at rear tire.







Right side crank clearance at chain stay...







Left side crank clearance at chain stay.







View from top of the new front derailleur mounting. (I had to abandon my previous clamp - it snapped as I torqued it down. This is actually my clamp from the initial setup (this is the third iteration...) but I had to drill out the threaded portion to allow passage for a heavier long bolt to allow mounting of the derailleur at the front of the clamp. Thanks to Free Cycle Missoula for the plethora of old parts to allow for prototype fabricating "on the fly"!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> Thanks, Canoe, for the straight dope on the gearing..


No material difference. 
Your charts is giving 20.4 through 93.5 gear inches. 
Stock tire without measuring for weight & PSI, is 20.7 through 94.9 gear inches.

Your gain ratio changed from 1.81 through 8.1, to 1.55 through 7.09 with the 42/34/24, then the 175 mm crank radius ratio of 2.13 brings that to 1.50 to 6.89.

Rather different from the stock 37.8 through 75.5.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Replaced the stock bottom bracket bearings. They were greased enough to work (and were clean, uncontaminated), but there were air spaces. So not enough grease for good heat conduction (bearing life) nor enough to be completely packed to prevent water from getting into the race.

I had a spare set of new cups & bearings sitting around for the Beast. They fit the Dolo. 
YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (for under $10). BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW 
(Note that this is dry bearings in a race that you will have to grease. "Sealed" refers to the rubber seal that encompasses the axle shaft.)








No surprises. Installed the fixed cup filled with grease, completely filled the races with grease, bearings over the axle, slide the axle in, filled the adjustment cup with grease and fitted it on. Lots of rotating while tightening the cup, until no play in the axle. Prior to reaching that point, lots of turning resistance in the axle. Once the play was gone, the axle turned wonderfully freely. Significantly smoother and freer than the stock bearings & grease. I used a silicone grease.

I used the same grease to repack the front and rear hub bearings and set their play, (both had the same air voids as the BB, as did the headset, which I also topped up). The front hub still turns slightly rough, likely due to having arrived new with the cups so tight that the front axle would not turn. Rear was smooth; gave the rear wheel a moderate spin and it was still spinning close to the same speed a minute later when I stopped it so I could do something else. Heavy wheel...

Since the wheel was off, I threw the used MF-HG40 14-34T on too.

Since it was apart for the BB, doing this at the local bike recycle/DIY shop, I grabbed a used $7 unknown Shimano 22-32-44T ring/crank to try out, using the stock 170mm alloy arm on the left. I ran out of time at the shop, so I don't know if the stock chain will work through the range, nor have I set the derailler up yet.

UPDATE 2014-07-15: *Sealed Bearing Cartridge available* now in 100mm square taper. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-17.html#post11325408








As of 2014-08-15


VP-USA said:


> Currently: The BC-63 is available in 11 sizes between 137.5mm and 164mm. They skip every 2-3mm just like 68/73mm shell but *nothing even close to the 189mm you are looking for*.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

I did a round-trip to Stevensville & back - 16.2 miles total. Took me right at 1 hour to get there - but I stopped to answer a couple incoming texts, took a detour through a plowed (not freshly plowed though) section of a field & then again through a boggy, mucky section - including a soppy ditch - in my lowest gear this was all a breeze. Ride in was with 12 PSI rear & 10 PSI front- Too soft w/the stock tread as the sidewalls keep trying to "grab" & pull on the steering. In Stevi I inflated to 14 front and rear & had much less rolling resistance, etc. (didn't try any more "off-road" stuff though) & made it home in exactly 48 minutes. (Had a bit of a tail-wind as well) I was a little worried about the newer front crank as it says "IG chain only" & all I could find regarding this is possible "un-scheduled" derailing of the chain. Well, w/my stock chain (KMC) in its skewed line I have to have the inner side of the front derailleur set to keep the chain on the smaller ring as-is. However, under "load" w/the cross-country stuff & couple of severely steep small climbs on the route, everything functioned well - & no more chain rub!  (Which had more effect, at slow fat-bike speeds, than I would have thought possible on my ride of a few days previous!) I think I've got things where I want them for now. Thanks again, Canoe, for your input & data. (I like the sealed BB bearing idea!) 
I did get some Vee 8's via UPS today so my next "tests" will be a ride in the "stock" tires followed by another in the new ones to see if I detect any differences... (I suspect I will!?!)


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## The norseman (Mar 31, 2014)

I have one as well and with only a few tweaks and painting the rims black...its a damn good bike for the price!!! Not going to worry about dropping it on a rock or falling in a ditch.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

To, The Norseman, Amen Brother!


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## BigGDog (Oct 15, 2013)

Has anyone bought a Dolo that lives north of the 49th parallel? I stopped in at Walmart tonight here in Calgary and spoke to the manager to see if they could get them (Dolo and Brutis) brought in. She said she'd have to look into it for me.
I know some people ordered direct from Pacific but does Walmart have an exclusive on these?
Thanks in advance
G


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

BigGDog said:


> Has anyone bought a Dolo that lives north of the 49th parallel? ...
> I know some people ordered direct from Pacific...


As far as we know, Walmart is currently the exclusive source, with a few people managing to order direct from Pacific. If you order from Walmart.com (U.S.) they ship within the States and for free. Order from Pacific, you pay for shipping; this _may_ mean you can pay Pacific to ship it to Canada. You'd have to ask Pacific. (watch out for getting dinged/ransomed for "broker fees" from the shipping company in Canada; as in, an additional $150 in "broker" fees or they don't deliver, plus HST, plus the danger of a "big box" fee...)

You can purchase online from Walmart.com with a Canadian credit card (they have instructions on how to enter an international billing address; I won't say how, as that may change over time) but you need a U.S. shipping address. From that U.S. shipping address:
you'll have to have it re-shipped to Canada (shipping, "broker" fees, etc.), or 
drive down and pick it up yourself from your U.S. shipping address. 
I purchased online from Walmart.com, had mine shipped "free" to a UPS Store close to the border, drove down to the States, paid the UPS Store $5 USD, drove back into Canada paying HST at the border.
There was a mysterious $2.97 shipping fee on my Walmart invoice: but I bought around 10:15 a.m. on the first Tuesday, it shipped late afternoon that same day and it arrived around 12:30 noon on that Thursday, so I'm assuming it was an expedited shipping fee. I drove down to the States on the Friday (an hour down, an hour back), assembled Friday evening, out in the snow before midnight Friday...

Got my Beast the same way last year, only I paid with a Walmart U.S. gift card. Here it is with a 47mm trials rim with a 120 TPI Surly Endo (3.7") on the front. 
I assume you'll recognize the location.









Edit: May 14, 2014 Available online from Costco.ca (Canada)
http://www.costco.ca/Ironhorse®-Dolimite-Fat-Tire-Beach-Cruiser	.product.100106109.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-14.html#post11200995


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

anyone try putting quick release skewers on the wheels? i dont even know if this is possible?


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Actual tire width for Dolo - at 14 PSI...*

OK, my Father-in-law had a set of calipers to get a measurement of the tire width - I'll try mounting the Vee 8's later this week & see what the difference is...









With these old calipers I was able to get an actual dimension on the width of the stock front tire at 14 PSI - the widest point measures at 4 9/16 inches (4.5625") and there is plenty of clearance left on the forks and seat and chain stays - this thing could probably run 5-inch wide tires?!?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rotaidalg, you realize that when you write your descriptive text onto the photographs, that text is never available to people when searching...


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## BigGDog (Oct 15, 2013)

Canoe said:


> As far as we know, Walmart is currently the exclusive source, with a few people managing to order direct from Pacific. If you order from Walmart.com (U.S.) they ship within the States and for free. Order from Pacific, you pay for shipping; this _may_ mean you can pay Pacific to ship it to Canada. You'd have to ask Pacific. (watch out for getting dinged/ransomed for "broker fees" from the shipping company in Canada; as in, an additional $150 in "broker" fees or they don't deliver, plus HST, plus the danger of a "big box" fee...)
> 
> You can purchase online from Walmart.com with a Canadian credit card (they have instructions on how to enter an international billing address; I won't say how, as that may change over time) but you need a U.S. shipping address. From that U.S. shipping address:
> you'll have to have it re-shipped to Canada (shipping, "broker" fees, etc.), or
> ...


Thanks Canoe!
I was hoping to fore go turning this into an excuse for my wife to go on a shopping trip to Spokane (on sales tax for Albertians) but you have take the good with the bad....plus I might be able to squeeze a track day out of it.
I do appreciate the insight and the shot of your Beast on Parliament Hill. It's been a long time since I've stood in that spot. Ottawa is a beautiful city.


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## dyultimate (Jul 11, 2008)

Anyone know if LOU/BUD will fit?


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

Canoe said:


> rotaidalg, you realize that when you write your descriptive text onto the photographs, that text is never available to people when searching...


No, sorry, I hadn't thought of that at all. (I usually edit the original .jpegs in "Paint" as screen-shots to save storage space & reduce the file's size - I rename them & add the text to aid me in selecting what I'll post. In future I'll try to add comments to the text of the post vs. on the .jpeg itself... :\


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dolo available again online at walmart.com for $299.97.



rotaidalg said:


> ...In future I'll try to add comments to the text of the post vs. on the .jpeg itself... :\


Why not both? Nice to have the text on the photo so the two parts of the info can't get lost; nice to have the text on the site so it's easier to view and available to be found by a search.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

[/QUOTE]
Why not both?... [/QUOTE]

Done (on some anyway - I have to get back to my school work!)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Dolo available again online at walmart.com for $299.97.


This morning, still in stock. Price up to $349.97.
...


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Dolo available again online at walmart.com for $299.97.
> 
> Why not both? Nice to have the text on the photo so the two parts of the info can't get lost; nice to have the text on the site so it's easier to view and available to be found by a search.


 There, finished editing most everything I've got on this thread... (not sure most of it is worth "finding" anyway!) :\
But it's done.


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

WOW - Blaine's Farm & Fleet: $259 and in-stock @ certain stores.

Mongoose 26" Men's 7 Speed Massif Fat Mountain Bike at Blain's Farm & Fleet

Look @ specs. Says 7 spd, 58lbs :eekster:


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*New Mission Vee-8 Tires mounted on my 21-speed Mongoose Dolomite - 04Apr14*

Well, here is the Mongoose Dolomite in its "sveldt" (or "svelte"...) configuration... (yea, Riiight!) 
I'm running 14 PSI for now - I noticed these are much more flexible, so I may drop to 12 or 10 PSI as I get more time on them... (what is it w/me and my photo captions! Ignore the double ref to the rear rim on the pic!) :\









Here is the rear rim with the Mission Vee-8 tire mounted - compared to the front rim with stock tire still on - there's a difference in height!









Here you can see the difference in the width between the same two...









And, finally the actual measured width of the front Mission Vee-8 tire at 14 PSI...









Here is the Dolomite in all its "piggish" glory! Rides smoother with these tires (better sidewall flex) and there is a reduction in the gear-inches ratio with the smaller diameter of these less beefy tires...


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## Squashman (Jul 7, 2013)

pspycho said:


> WOW - Blaine's Farm & Fleet: $259 and in-stock @ certain stores.
> 
> Mongoose 26" Men's 7 Speed Massif Fat Mountain Bike at Blain's Farm & Fleet
> 
> Look @ specs. Says 7 spd, 58lbs :eekster:


I thought the Massif was the 20" version and the Dolomite was the 26" version. The Title says 26" but then down in the description it says the tires are 20 x 4.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

They have something messed up. The Dolomite is the 26", and the Massif is the 20".

For that price its hard to say if its a less expensive Dolomite, or an overpriced Massif.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

pspycho said:


> WOW - Blaine's Farm & Fleet: $259 and in-stock @ certain stores...


And, ...
sold out online.
I bet that was due to your post.

They also sell the Massif. Nine available. But $274. They've sure got their listings mixed up between those two bikes.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

In all honesty, I can't be sure if its these new Mission Vee-8 tires or I'm just getting into better shape (both?)  but I made it into town the 8 miles the other day at 42 minutes - only 4 minutes longer than I had a few days earlier on my Schwinn Highplains (touring setup - dropped bars, etc.) That was with the Vee-8s. Today I went in (only about 7.2 miles) in a total of 40 minutes (strong cross & head-winds!) & then back in only 36 minutes (now cross & tail-winds!)
I estimate the Dolomite is about 10% slower than the "skinny-tired" MTB I use for road riding. I'd like to set up the Dolomite with some dropped bars, etc. - currently my torso is just one big wind catcher...


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

is there a list of measurements for the cranks,hubs,stem etc anywhere?

thanks


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## dietz31684 (Mar 30, 2010)

., NNH

Sent from my SM-T210R using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

twistedmentality said:


> is there a list of measurements for the cranks,hubs,stem etc anywhere? thanks


Cranks are 170mm turning a 36T x 14T-28T for gear inches of 37.8 to 75.5, stem is 1 1/8" threadless, hubs are 135mm front and 190mm rear, discs are 160mm.

All sorts, ad hoc throughout. 
You can start here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Thank you, I did read through some of this thread but not all. Seems there was a lot of bickering early on.

I just bought my bike and after re lubing and adjusting everything I took it out for a spin. I think I would like to go down on the front chain ring to better suite trail riding and to do so i believe the cranks have to be replaced as well.It looks like the cranks and chain ring are one or riveted together.

I searched for some 170 square taper cranks but honestly I am a little confused as to what to get. I see mostly on road items or vintage. Theres not much in the way of MTB in square taper. I am also wondering if i will need a bash guard to hold on the chain in the front.

any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

twistedmentality said:


> ...Seems there was a lot of bickering early on....
> I think I would like to go down on the front chain ring to better suite trail riding...
> I searched for some 170 square taper cranks ...
> I am also wondering if i will need a bash guard to hold on the chain in the front.


There was some nonsense for a while, but it's gone now.

22-32-42T chainring, manual selection, from a bicycle recycle place
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414
stock Dolo alloy crank matched well.
Has a bash guard. Rear derailer can let chain flop around by times.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*latest ride... 08Apr14... +70 degrees F today!*

No classes today - finished the homework & "honey-do" list...
Rode into Stevi for some shelf support brackets (I don't recommend no-shoulder roads w/wide handle bars!) :eekster: I survived...









Just south off of Moiese Lane about 5 miles out of Stevensville, MT. Looking west toward Idaho - first day above 70 degrees F since September 2013! Beautiful! 









On the irrigation ditch maintenance road looking south "up" the Bitterroot Valley toward Hamilton - lots of snow-pack this year!


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Canoe said:


> There was some nonsense for a while, but it's gone now.
> 
> 22-32-42T chainring, manual selection, from a bicycle recycle place
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414
> ...


I was leaning towards just one chain ring or maybe get one with 3 and just use the inner two and replace third outer one with a bash guard??

I do not have a bicycle recycle place around me so hopefully i can find one on the net.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Ideas for 3-ring crank acquisition... with "no parts available"*



twistedmentality said:


> I was leaning towards just one chain ring or maybe get one with 3 and just use the inner two and replace third outer one with a bash guard??
> 
> I do not have a bicycle recycle place around me so hopefully i can find one on the net.


Twistedmentality, I have a 3-ring up front and only get onto the largest when using the two smallest sprockets on the freewheel. (13-34 MegaRange)

If you go to Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator and use the stock rear freewheel (14-28 tooth) & a more typical 28-38-48 crank (on most cheap three-piece cranks of big-box store mountain bikes - check thrift stores & pawnshops? Metal re-cyclers- you could buy an old bike for parts at "scrap" prices!?) run the Gear Calculator (use congruent tire size, i.e. 29x2.3" tire) and compare w/the stock chain-ring (36 tooth) - this will give you some idea of what changes you can expect to see in your set-up. Maybe a Local Bike Shop would have some cheap disgarded parts for you to pick through? Good luck!


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

i plan on making a trip to the local bike store to see what he has. i really want to stick to one chain ring up front i just have to think of a way to keep the chain on. i know downhill bikes and free ride bikes use bash guards and guides but our chain ring is a lot further away from the frame then on those such bikes.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Dolomite w/dropped bars - touring - setup... (also on the "Daily Pics" thread)*

OK, I'm settled on 15 PSI w/the new Mission Vee-8 tires. I'll try a ride into Stevensville via Lee Metcalf this afternoon (if it doesn't rain...) & time myself to see what, if any, difference I can discern.









I've installed some old, cheap, steel drop-bars I acquired from Free Cycle Missoula (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Free-Cycles-Missoula/112465108837550) & (Missoula Institute for Sustainable Transportation "Free Cycles" Missoula Montana). I then used a base layer of hay-bailing twine covered w/a double layer of inner tube strips as bar-tape (provides a bigger diameter & some weatherproof padding). I side-mounted some old MTB shift-levers (friction vs. indexed) in lieu of bar-end shifters. I also found some cheap double-access brake levers (no issues w/range of motion & the disk brakes...) for a variety of hold positions. This matches my Schwinn High Plain MTB, setup as a "touring" cycle... (see below)

















Below is a comparison of the High Plains w/the Mongoose Dolomite. Notice the bar height on the Dolo is a bit higher, the seats are almost identical - though I've 175 MM cranks on the Dolo & only 170's on the Schwinn.









We'll see if I can get similar speed out of this Fatbike w/the same wind-bucking ability I can have w/dropped bars on the Schwinn...

(update: Didn't get to do the ride - wife wanted to go into town w/me AND some really nasty sleet/rain moved in...)  Tomorrow?!?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here is another dolomite I did for a friend today:




























It's strange how inconsistent these bikes are. I have done a few now and this one felt really really nice, like a much higher end bike. Others felt like a walmart bike.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

blown240 said:


> Here is another dolomite I did for a friend today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks great! What method did you use to paint it? Any upgrades or is it all stock?


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## The norseman (Mar 31, 2014)

Great!!!....Thanks!!! Already painted my rims black ...Now I`m thinking about painting the frame!!!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Bearhunter said:


> That looks great! What method did you use to paint it? Any upgrades or is it all stock?


Bone stock except the paint. I just stripped the frame down, steel woolen the clear coat a bit, and spray bombed it. It has about 4 coats. Time till tell if it hold up...


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Fantastic! Thanks


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

I think I shall take the Dolo out to some local trails today. 100% stock,we will see how it does,how I do....


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

twistedmentality said:


> I think I shall take the Dolo out to some local trails today. 100% stock,we will see how it does,how I do....


My 10 yr old son has been doing fine riding the trails on his stock Dolo. I'm going to install a 14-34 mega range freewheel next week for him though, just so he has an easier gear for the tougher parts.

I'm going to do the same on my youngest son's Massif since the bike probably weighs almost as much as him.


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Well I made it out to the trails. They were pretty muddy. This first trek into the trails made me realize the dolo def could use a granny gear. I have some Vee Rubbers on the way and I will prolly get the mega range freewheel. regardless I had a fun time.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

twistedmentality said:


> ... This first trek into the trails made me realize the dolo def could use a granny gear. I have some Vee Rubbers on the way and I will prolly get the mega range freewheel...


Yup.
Stock, it's only 37.8 to 75.5 gear inches. Cruiser range.

A 14-34T freewheel will take it to 31.1 to 75.5.
13-34T is 31.1 to 81.3.

Stock is 36T on the front. 
32T with the 14-34T freewheel will take that down to 27.6 to 67.1.
With the 13-34T freewheel, the 67.1 goes to 72.3.

The 11-34T freewheel is elusive, but with 32T in front would make from 27.6 to 85.5.

It's easy to do your own math. Use 29.375" for the diameter, or 373.06mm for the radius. Or measure with your tire & pressure with you on it from the flat ground to the center of the axle, x2 for the diameter.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

How low can you go? 

Most of the fatbikes offered by other companies are running a 22 or 23 for the small gear up front with a 11-34 out back. 

I put a three gear crank with a 23 low gear on my Beast and the shimano mega 34 on back. No derailer up front and the chain has never (in 500+ miles) fell off.

Since the thaw I have been riding on the "beach". Think lots of mushy sand/weeds/muck/sticks. It has been truly amazing what was able to be gone through. By amazing - think "holy s**t" nobody could ride a bike through that! But the Beast did it - granny gear can do!


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

i have a wally single speed cruiser parts bike in my basement. im gonna see whats on it for a front chain ring.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> With 14-34T on a stock Dolo, that'll give me 31.1 through 75.5 gear inches.
> 
> With a 22T/32T front, I can get that to 19.0 G.I. through 67.1 G.I..
> Make it a triple to 42T and it's up to 88.1.


That 19 is pretty nice for grassy hills too.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

My beast is 15.2 gear inches in the lowest gear. It will climb nearly anything. 22t front sprocket, 42t rear cog.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

OK, I did my test ride yesterday (Sunday) the 8.1 miles to the store to turn in a video. With the new drop bars & a wicked wind (tail in & head wind back) my times were 36 minutes there & 42 minutes back for a "split" time of 39 minutes... That's about what I can get on my Schwinn High Plains. I'm running 15 PSI front & rear on the Mission Vee-8's.


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## tradera (Apr 16, 2013)

Bearhunter said:


> My 10 yr old son has been doing fine riding the trails on his stock Dolo. I'm going to install a 14-34 mega range freewheel next week for him though, just so he has an easier gear for the tougher parts.
> 
> I'm going to do the same on my youngest son's Massif since the bike probably weighs almost as much as him.


How does the Dolo fit your son. I'm thinking my daughters need fatbikes and this is about the only way I can afford to buy two extras.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I present: How To Crash A Dolomite (without getting hurt)


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

tradera said:


> How does the Dolo fit your son. I'm thinking my daughters need fatbikes and this is about the only way I can afford to buy two extras.


The seat is all the way down and rotated the handlebars so they sweep in towards the rider (instead of sweeping up - due to his size). He handles it fine and he won't outgrow it (I got tired of buying kids bikes every few years). We trail ride every weekend and he dusts his other brother and sister with it. He's really rough on his stuff, so the dolo is a good bike for him to beat around.

As for the boy vs. girl thing (as it relates to the weight of the bike). His 13yr old sister has no problems riding it either (after moving the seat up to fit her).


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

twistedmentality said:


> Well I made it out to the trails. They were pretty muddy. This first trek into the trails made me realize the dolo def could use a granny gear. I have some Vee Rubbers on the way and I will prolly get the mega range freewheel. regardless I had a fun time.


Really? 1st gear isn't low enough? thoughts on how to fix that? I'd do a lot of beach riding into the wind and it's sometimes soft sand, a low gear is important to me. Changing out the front chain ring is possible?


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

spidennis said:


> Really? 1st gear isn't low enough? thoughts on how to fix that? I'd do a lot of beach riding into the wind and it's sometimes soft sand, a low gear is important to me. Changing out the front chain ring is possible?


i am replacing my rear freewheel with a magarange freewheel. it has a larger granny gear then stock.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002OKJRUS?pc_redir=1396983114&robot_redir=1

changing the front chain ring is not possible with out changing the cranks. the stock chain ring is not removable from the cranks. if you do change out the whole crank you want a 170 mm crank with a smaller then 36t (stock chain ring) chain ring.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

this?
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Speed-Freewheel-14-34-MegaRange/dp/B002OKJRUS


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

spidennis said:


> this?
> Amazon.com : Shimano 7 Speed Freewheel, 14-34, MegaRange : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors


Yes, that is the one. I bought one for a Massif.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

The 14-34T or the 13-34T. 
Go back a page or two and read.


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

Well i put on the new tires(vee rubber v8's) and the megarange freewheel today. The derailleur was a pia to adjust but i got it working. does the chain look like its to short or do i have the B screw out of whack or is it because its in the mega ranger cog??


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

The chain is too short


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Your LBS will have some spare chain for you. As for the front cranks - change them out. 

There are lots of used cranks for sale on ebay. 

And new ones can be had fairly cheap. For where these bikes will ride - go low or go home.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

So what is the recommended chainring if going with new cranks? 32T?


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

I went to the local bike shop and bought a larger chain,a used clicker thumb shifter, some new cables and grips.

mods are happening.


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## 300stw (Apr 21, 2014)

new here, just got a dolomite, watching everyones progress,
I have a new cassette here wanting to install, I see it takes a longer chain, I am 70 miles from a bike shop, what chain can I order off ebay, 
I don't like the grip shifters, what to change to,
thanks


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

i just put this shifter on mine. its an alivio. much better then stock. sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

Canoe said:


> The 14-34T or the 13-34T.
> Go back a page or two and read.


I was hoping you could give me some advice as i dont know much about building bicycles. I just bought a dolomite and took it to my lbs for some upgrades because i hated the gears and shifter. The guy said he could replace the 7 speed cassette for a 9 speed one and put on a deore derailer and new trigger shifters because the twist one was terrible. I also asked if he could replace the front single sprocket with a new one that has even more gears but he said its not possible. I saw on here that you might have figured out a way to do this with new cranks also.

Can you specifically link me to the parts I need so I can show they guy at my lbs? I also have vee mission 120 tpi folding tires and was wondering if you think I should drill out my stock rims or just buy some lightweight tubes. Also im new to bicycling so I dont understand all the tech talk, jargon and numbers such as what I have quoted in the top of this post. Laymans terms please. thanks for your time.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Misterdolo - first off, the person you spoke to at your local shop doesn't realize what the parts on your bike are. It doesn't have a cassette. It has a freewheel. So going to 9 speed is not easily done. 

You can get a Megarange freewheel for less than $20 and some trigger shifters for not much more. If you want a Multi gear crank, there are options, but do the new freewheel first and see if that's good enough for the riding you are doing.

As far as the tubes vs drilling. That depends on how much weight you want to remove from the bike. Tubes are easy, drilling is pretty easy too, but time consuming.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

This is the hub I put on my modified Beast - bought from a LBS though - for the same price.

Amazon.com : Shimano 7 Speed Freewheel, 14-34, MegaRange : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

I am very happy with the low gear. But if I were to do it again, I would have bought one with out the big jump from the lowest gear to the next lowest gear. This sometimes makes for a hard shift. One more like this perhaps ---

Amazon.com: Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth: Sports & Outdoors

I would agree too, that you should change out the back first and see how it goes. The only time you will most likely need more high gears is when and if you are trying to go fast. Or if you plan on doing a lot of riding on paved trails with higher air pressures.

You will also need to lengthen your chain to accommodate the larger gear.


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

MisterDolo, I didnt drill my rims or go to a lighter tube. I used the stock tube with Vee Rubber V8's and i noticed a difference on how much easier it rolled.

Drilling holes is an option to lose even more rotating weight (the best weight to shave off) but i felt in my case it was better to have a stronger wheel. I am not sure how much weaker drilling makes the wheels but I am sure it does to some extent.

Do one upgrade/mod at a time so y9ou can see what changes it makes to the bike.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MisterDolo, pretty much what they said. 

*get it lubed!!!*: front hub, rear hub (when you change the freewheel) and the headset.
Get the brakes adjusted.
Get the bottom bracket bearing upgraded to YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (part cost under $10).( http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414) and make sure it's filled with grease (no air pockets in the bearing race for water to get into).
Note that the front & rear hubs, headset and bottom bracket need to be properly adjusted when they're greased. It's not simply disassemble, squirt grease, reassemble. 
Note that the trigger shifter is a 7 speed Shimano type shifter. 
Get that 7-speed 14-34T freewheel (or the 13-34T version). New, it's available for under $10 if you look around. 
Check your tire pressure. Make sure it's correct for the terrain you're on. With fat tires, expect to change your tire pressure to match different terrain. 
You're getting or already have 120 tpi tires, which is a huge improvement. Loose the stock tubes. It's not the weight as much as the stock tubes are hard to roll. Let your 120 tpi tires do their best with an appropriate tube, otherwise you're using them crippled.
After the above is done, and you've spend some days riding the bike
 if you find the Dolo is still hard to pedal, then you look to changing the front. The stock front is 36T (teeth/tooth). You can get a double or triple front (22-32-42T), but then only use the 22T or 32T, by stopping and changing the chain over by hand when you're riding on the flat vs. on hills. If you find you want to switch a lot, _then_ you look into adding the appropriate hardware to do that job. 
The last thing you'll want to consider is drilling the rims. It can be a cool thing to do, if you've got an idea for rim tape that will show through the holes. If you need to lose that miniscule weight for the type of riding you do, then you've got the wrong bike to start with. Provided the drilling is done correctly, and you're not a Clydesdale (heavy weight), the rim is a tiny bit weaker but that doesn't matter. If that trivial amount matters, you may have got the wrong bike for the type of riding you're attempting with it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

GiantTrek said:


> ... I would have bought one with out the big jump from the lowest gear to the next lowest gear. This sometimes makes for a hard shift. One more like this perhaps
> Sunrace Freewheel *8 Speed *13-34 Teeth: Sports & Outdoors
> ...


Having the 28T in there would be nice, but I don't know how easy it would be to go from a 7 speed freewheel to a 8 speed freewheel on the Dolo. There may not be enough space for the stack height. 
I also read somewhere that there is some concern with the strength of an 8 speed freewheel, compared to the 7 speed. Can't recall what it was specifically (bent axles?, leverage on the axle or some such thing?).

The 7 speed 14-34T/13-34T freewheel can use the stock derailer & shifters, or upgraded parts.

The progression of 14-16-18-20-22-24-34T is a little much at the end. Something like the 7 speed cassettes would be nice (13-15-17-20-24-29-34T). I wonder if one could do a custom 7 speed stack, drop the 22, add the 28, for 14-16-18-20-24-28-34T.

Perhaps a better place to start would be with the 7 speed 13-15-17-19-21-24-28T, and restack it to 13-15-17-20-24-28-34T. The 13- uses a triple diameter freewheel body whereas the 14- uses a dual diameter one.

Customizing Shimano 7 Speed Freewheels | Harris Cyclery


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks for the link to the Harris page. Ive been thinking of making up a freewheel for my boys Massif. I wonder if the wife will miss her megarange freewheel, or if I'm better off just buying one....


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Modifying a Freewheel:

Many Massif and Dolomite owners want to put an easier gear on their bikes. This is easily done by swapping on a Megarange freewheel. The problem with the megarange freewheel is that is has a big, 10 tooth, jump between the 2 largest cogs.

On my 6 year olds Massif, this jump was way to big, so I set off to make the steps between cogs smaller, this is how I did it:

First off here is a picture of the stock Massif freewheel, and the Megarange freewheel that I bought from my LBS.










Here is a picture of the megarange freewheel I took off of my wifes bike:










Notice that the 2 megarange freewheels have the same size cogs on them, but they are very different:

NEW:










OLD










The new style megarange freewheels will not work for this modification because the 3 largest cogs are pinned together and cannot be easily taken apart. And if they are taken apart, the 34 doesnt have splines.










So make sure that the megarange freewheel you have doesnt have the pinned larger cogs.

Here is the breakdown of the 3 freewheels:

Stock Massif (and probably Dolomite)
28, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14










NEW Megarange:

34, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14










OLD megarange:

34, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14










HOW TO DISSASSEMBLE:

Its pretty easy to do with common tools.

Screw the freewheel to a block of wood using the teeth to hold the freewheel in place. Using a screwdriver, or a punch, and a hammer, tap the lockring to unscrew it.










THE MODIFIED FREEWHEEL:

once you have a pile of cogs and spacers, time to reassemble it. I used as many of the Shimano parts as possible and here is the result:

34, 28, 24, 20, 18, 16, 14

putting the 28t between the 34 and 24 is the best way to go:



















Let me know if I need to explain any of this more. Hopefully this helped...


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

Canoe said:


> Colour is nice.
> Paint run just to right of center in the photo (top of down tube, very close to head tube, tucked in under the top tube). Otherwise, the paint is done nicely.
> 
> View attachment 876133


That's called candy paint drippin...


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Does the Massif have a Falcon freewheel from the factory? 

Was wondering how compatible the cogs from Shimano and Falcon were


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Do you have any pics of the freewheel bodies that show the splines?


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

*The DOLOMITE in the Wild*

couple pics of my gateway bike

swapped tires/tubes , drilled the rims, added a take off crank (22/32), ebayed direct mount derailleur/thumb shifter/PS adapter, and found some red flare.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here is the NEW Megarange.










Here is the Massif: It is a Falcon


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here are some spline comparisons:

Shimano is the shiny cog, falcon the other:










Stacked up:



















The splines are slightly different, but still seem to work together fine. I filed the 28t a tiny bit before I really looked at it. I didn't include it in the writeup, because where I filed it made no difference to the fit once I actually looked at it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> Modifying a Freewheel:
> Notice that the 2 megarange freewheels have the same size cogs on them, but they are very different:
> 
> NEW: 34, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14
> *The new style megarange freewheels will not work for this modification* because the 3 largest cogs are pinned together and cannot be easily taken apart. And if they are taken apart, the 34 doesnt have splines.


boy you move fast

And it's a good job you do. Important to know about that pinned megarange. You've probably saved a lot of folk from getting a pinned megarange freewheel that can't have a 28T swapped in.

If you had both megarange freewheels (13-xxT and 14-xxT) sitting in front of you (I've got a both to 34T), would you go with:

the 14-xxT for 14-16-18-20-24-28-34T, or 
the 13-xxT for 13-15-17-20-24-28-34T?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

It probably really doesn't matter too much. If it was my bike, I would use the 13t because I would want the slightly higher top speed. But if it was for my boy, or someone who doesn't really ride too fast and stays in the lower gears, I would go with the 14 because of the slightly closer ratios.


I ended up putting the pinned freewheel on my wife's bike. She will never need to modify it and probably won't ever know I even took the wheel off if it.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

That is what I like about this bike, people aren't afraid to try changing it and making it their own.

wonder if the 11-34T freewheel is pinned or not, will find out when I receive the one I have on order

Looking at the pinned freewheel reminds me of this item I saw on ebay.

Suntour Winner Pro TA 8V 11 38 Freewheel 4 Schwinn Tandem Drum Brake | eBay

It added a 38 chainring to the back of a 7-speed freewheel, making it a 8-speed only works for specific Drum Brake hubs though


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

*I am so damn frustrated!*



Canoe said:


> MisterDolo, pretty much what they said.
> 
> *get it lubed!!!*: front hub, rear hub (when you change the freewheel) and the headset.
> Get the brakes adjusted.
> ...


I dropped my bike off 2 weeks ago at my lbs and asked for new bars, shifters, derailler, chain, pedals and maybe brakes. After assuring me he could upgrade everything i asked including the casette which you pointed out would need to be a freewheel. I told him this and this is our email convo. read the last one from him WTF?!

Apr 10
to sales
MisterDolo-
Hey this is the guy who brought in the fat bike today. I was wondering if you could grease the headset and cranks and axles and all that stuff because apparently those things ship with barely any grease on the bearings. I basically just want you to go through the whole bike and make sure it's as good as it can possibly be for what it is and I realize it's not going to be anything incredible. Also, true the wheels if you can. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks

Apr 11

to me
Will check it and you want the 9spd freewheel derailleur and trigger shifters along with a nicer seat and bar, correct and red pedals.

Sent from my iPhone

Apr 11
MisterDolo-
to Rod
Yes to all you mentioned and maybe a new chain as well. Also please
make sure the bottom bracket is greased. Can I get colored cables on
it? Maybe red to match the pedals and wheels. Thanks

Apr 11

to me
I'll check it out.

Apr 12 (13 days ago)
MisterDolo-
to
Hey bud,
Can you send me a list of parts you are installing? Also, i ordered new tires but am still shopping for tubes. Ill bring them in when i get to land if they have arrived by then. Thanks!

Apr 21 (4 days ago)
MisterDolo-
to 
So whats the damage gonna be?

Apr 24 (1 day ago)

to me
9spd Freewheel was what I explained when you dropped it off would be needed, not a cassette. Bar comes in tomorrow, brakes are quite inadequate right now will evaluate them again and see if they need an upgrade for stopping power.

Apr 24 (1 day ago)
MisterDolo-
to
Yeah i know nothing about bikes. Thanks again bro.

Apr 24 (1 day ago)

to me
No problem

4:19 PM (6 hours ago)

to me
Please come pick up your bike. Grips, bar/stem, pedals complete. Nothing else will be done, the bike is not designed for upgrades.



What the actual ****? This is a legit bike shop that carries all kinds of italian racing jobs and such. I don't know how to do these upgrades on my own. What should I tell this guy?


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

What did you expect?! Your lbs was100% correct when they said the bike wasn't designed for upgrades. The things that others have accomplished with it amount to turd polishing and are arguably not worth the time, effort and expense for the results. There's a reason that the Dolomite is $350 and a fat bike at a b local bike shop is $1500 and up.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The real answer is that they just don't want mess with it. Shops with all sorts of high end bikes have a different outlook towards cheaper bikes. Nothing against them, it's just the way it is.

Your best bet it to take it to another shop.

As far as polishing a turn goes; it's your turd, polishing it if you like. I've polished 2 so far and I have no regrets. 

There is no reason that this bike couldn't be upgraded, it's your money.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MiniTrail said:


> most uncool giving personal information on the net especially from a PRIVATE message
> your name is not listed. edit your post to remove the other persons name


Get that done.
Name and contact info.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MisterDolo said:


> ...What should I tell this guy?


You should tell him Thank You!
By not going ahead, he saved you a lot of money. Going to a 9 speed on a Dolo could get iffy fast. I'm sure they wouldn't want the liability.

See the list of what to do. Do it or get it done.

Are there any bike co-ops near you? Once someone shows you how, none of what is on the top part of that list is hard.

Later, if necessary for the riding you do, then you go for:


oops said:


>


You need to do some more reading so you understand what you're asking for.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

MiniTrail said:


> most uncool giving personal information on the net especially from a PRIVATE message
> 
> your name is not listed. edit your post to remove the other persons name


Edited.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Get that done.
> Name and contact info.


Done.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

UPDATE :
I deleted his info as requested. Sorry about that, I was just carried away with the whole thing. Here is his new response after I sent him the suggestions I was given:

"None of the parts are under $10, were not disassembly this bike to lube or adjust, wheels are wopped, rotors bent, it is produced in China, and not built correctly , or with quality parts. It's hi-tensile stamped steel, fork is was not milled straight or correct." 

So basically this is an unrideable bike? You guys all probably think im a complete dolt but listen, i work offshore and am home maybe 5 days a month and those days arent even consecutive. I dont have time to learn how to fix, find parts, and perform upgrades on a bike. I just really liked the way the dolo looked and wanted it for some local single track. my last bike was a gt avalanche 3.0 that i had upgraded the same way including handbuilt wheels that I LOVED. Only sold it for a plane ticket that I couldnt fund any other way. Anyway, rant over. I just wanted a fun, cheap fatbike that I could throw a few bucks at along the way to make it a weekend fun machine. I obviously am doing it wrong and will just save for a Krampus. Thanks for all the input!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MisterDolo said:


> ... "None of the parts are under $10, were not disassembly this bike to lube or adjust, wheels are wopped, rotors bent, it is produced in China, and not built correctly , or with quality parts. It's hi-tensile stamped steel, fork is was not milled straight or correct."


None of the parts he was going to sell you were under $10. An LBS can't stay in business and sell you the under $10 parts for under $10; they need to have a markup. 
My first hand personal experience: the megarange and the YST bottom bracket cup & bearings are available under $10. Better parts can cost a lot more.

"Wheels are wopped"? My wheels were not warped, but tensioned properly and set & stress released (so they're still not warped). Rotors were and are straight, my fork is straight. Yours could very well be as they say, it is a department store bike, but it would be the first that I've heard of for the Dolo. If it is, it should be addressed under warranty. The surprise with the Dolo, while using some rather cheap parts, is that it didn't have the usual department store bike problems, other than an over tightened front hub bearing.

Odd with the rotors that the LBS didn't sell you to upgrade to a set of BB7s with rotors. Could be the fork is defective and they just wanted out of any liability.

Not sure what is meant by "were not disassembly this bike to lube or adjust" (do they mean "would not disassemble" or "we did not disassemble"?), but I had to loosen off both hubs and the headset to access the bearings to grease them, and grease the new cup & bearing bottom bracket set as part of installation, then when (re)assembled - for each - adjust their tension so the bearing would function properly. A bike shop would be extremely familiar with this, and much more experienced at it than I. You've definitely got some miscommunication happening.

It does sound like you need a bike that is much closer to the way you want "off the shelf". Do find a LBS experienced with Fat Bikes.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

I don't know, it sounds like he was hounding the lbs and expected parts to be "under $10" for a bike he didn't buy there, and they just got tired of it.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Small update on the Megarange freewheel mod:

I installed it on my boys Massif and it works great.










The only issue was that the derailer cage touches the rim when in the lowest gear. This was easily solved by trimming the corner of the cage off with a pair of side cutters. The metal cuts very easily.

NOTE: this is not an issue with the Dolomite. Only the Massif due to it's smaller wheels.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

Bearhunter said:


> I don't know, it sounds like he was hounding the lbs and expected parts to be "under $10" for a bike he didn't buy there, and they just got tired of it.


Ok you are way off base here, this is advice given to me by another member. I never hounded him or asked for discount priced parts. I told him verbatim what I was told here. I NEVER expected anything to cost 10 dollars except maybe grips or something.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

List of problems with my dolo as noted by lbs:

New Update, he just sent me this. Should I get my money back from walmart?

to have to take this unit, upgrade it, and then dissemble the entire unit to correct manufacturing defects shouldn’t have to be performed if it were built well. 

On your Mongoose Dolomite here is what we have found:




Rotors were warped (front & back)
Rear wheel is improperly dished and therefore has a hop
Both Wheels are out of true, but are not a strong double wall rim
Rear stamped dropout on the drivetrain side was bent ad out of alignment
Both front fork dropouts are bent
Brake Rotors were improperly assembled and aligned
Headset bearings (top & bottom) were dry and void of grease
9spd freewheel will not fit, frame was not designed for a 9spd freewheel
Tires may not be perfectly round or symmetrical
Forums dedicated to taking this bike and upgrading the unit; I can’t comment on, or what people may/will do with this specific bicycle.



We receive phone calls almost daily with regards to Big-Box Bicycles: Wal-Mart, Academy, or K-Mart. It ranges from people that have just purchased them, several days old, or 1-2 weeks old with derailleurs snapping, and chains breaking. Almost every call refers to a warped wheel/rim or both wheels being warped. The wheels tend to be a single wall construction, with very poor weld points, often times causing a tube to puncture due to metal edges on improper weld spots.


Some units are worse than others, but each unit we have seen have had wheel issues, and shifting issues as a minimum. Often times, the new wheels equals the cost of the bicycle, or 1/2 of its purchase price, and we instruct them to return the unit and exchange for another unit, rather than pay to replace a defective part.




So what should I do? Scrap it? 
and again, thank you for the advice!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Do you have a local walmart that you can return it too? You may be better off finding a nice used higher end fatbike. Most of us who mod these bikes do the work ourselves. Having to pay shop labor adds a lot of expense. 

Let's just say for argument that you were going to spend roughly $400 in upgrades. Combine that with the $350 purchase price and you have spent more that a bikes direct fatbike. Don't get me wrong, I have had a lot of fun with the mongoose fat bikes, but there is a limit to what makes sense. Especially if you have one that is worse than average. Bent forks are a concern...


These bikes are not very consistent. I built 2 Dolomites for my buddies boys. One of them rides REALLY nice, the other just ok.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

We can't tell what's wrong with your bike. You have the opinion of the LBS. 
You likely need to find someone to give you a second opinion on the condition of the bike, be it for returning to walmart, or warranty repair or replacement or to know its true condition for selling locally.

To have a department store bike with those defects is all too common, as your LBS will be very well aware. To have a Dolo with all those defects, apart form extreme shipping damage, this is a first. The lack of grease is common, hence the advice to get everything greased. The front hub or others not be torqued correctly is known to occur, hence those things get corrected as part of the adjustment necessary after greasing. I've built a few wheels, so I'm now 'pickier than thou", but both of my Dolo's wheels came perfectly trued and have stayed that way so I have no excuse to play with them. Although from reports it would be a real anomaly for a Dolo, it is possible for the wheels to be exactly as the LBS says. 

> Should I get my money back from walmart?
You can try. But you've modified the bike, and it's been out of your control, so Walmart/Pacific will want to know when did the defects occur: during manufacture, shipping, assembly, at the LBS...
You might put the original parts back on it, and return it to your local walmart for a refund, simply citing the defects (but not things like "doesn't fit a 9 speed freewheel"). Don't complicate things by mentioning the LBS.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> ... Let's just say for argument that you were going to spend roughly $400 in upgrades. Combine that with the $350 purchase price and you have spent more that a bikes direct fatbike. Don't get me wrong, I have had a lot of fun with the mongoose fat bikes, but there is a limit to what makes sense. Especially if you have one that is worse than average. Bent forks are a concern...


+1000 on this advice
One's needs have to match this bike stock (and with a few basics like greasing, by you, friend or an LBS) or with a few user upgrades like a different 7 speed freewheel, etc., or else the Dolo just is not the bike for you. Some limited upgrading is fun, if you know how and want to do the work yourself you can do it economically, otherwise economically it just doesn't make sense. If you want a lot of upgrades, there are better places to start from. Combine upgrading with not knowing much about bikes, that just isn't going to work for you.


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## fat_tires_are_fun (May 24, 2013)

To the above trying to get his dolo upgraded..
I like that you are trying to upgrade your bike and make it your own, but your expectations dont seem reasonable.
You should consider yourself lucky that the lbs did not perform everything you asked, because you would have spent a fortune.
This Mongoose s a cool entry to fat bikes for people that will ride as is, or upgrade themselve from a parts bin. I recommend you look for a used Pugsley or something similar.
The bike shop did you a favor


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> the Megarange freewheel mod


sure looks a lot more reasonable


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

*Dolomite Gear Inches*

I got curious about how to easily compare the various gear inch numbers I was calculating for the various chain-ring/freewheel combos. 
So I charted the stock freewheel with the stock ring of 36T, then for 34T, 32T, 30T & 28T.
Then I added various 7 speed freewheels, including custom gear stacks, for the stock ring of 36T and a selection of 22T, 32T and 42T.

From the chart, you can *see the improvement for either a 14-34T or a 13-34T 7-speed freewheel with the stock 36T or a 32T front*. A meaningful improvement for the least work/cost.

You can also see the easier progression of the freewheel custom stacks, where a 28 is added to the xx-34T. Also shown, is subbing a 21 for the 20 on the 14-34T custom, or a 20 for the 19 on the 13-34T custom; makes for a smoother range, so if you've got the parts...

(now to see if it will load the chart...)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Well, the upload made it a little fuzzy, but at least it's readable.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

Thanks to all for the advice about my bike. Walmart has agreed to take it as a return so I will just put the original parts back on and save for a better bike. Oh well, I tried. Again thank you.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Good news!

For the money you paid for the Dolo, and the cost of the upgrades that you're fortunate the LBS didn't go ahead and do, you're awfully close to the low end of a "real" fat bike. One that likely already has one of everything you want, with perhaps swapping in a favorite bar or pedals down the road. There are even choices under $1,000, and a few options surprisingly near $500.

DO do some reading here on the forum well before you purchase so you understand what you will be getting. There are some threads covering bikes in the range you'd be looking. With some reading, you'll be able to understand what you can reasonably expect before you spend any money.

DO find an LBS who is already familiar with Fat Bikes.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/moto-bikes-direct-fatbikes-875900-74.html
Save Up To 60% Off Fat Bikes and Fat Mountain Bicycles from bikesdirect.com FREE Ship 48 States
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/budget-fatbike-recommendations-901539.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/battle-cheap-fat-bikes-904837.html

Do some searching, do some reading.


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## GiantTrek (Jan 12, 2014)

Also shop around to your LBS shops. Some are fantastic, some not so much. Some are there because they love bikes. 

Some are there because they sell fancy polo shirts, and when you walk into their stores they seem to size you up based on the thickness of your wallet. If your not a cardiac surgeon they have no time for you.


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## MisterDolo (Apr 22, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Good news!
> 
> For the money you paid for the Dolo, and the cost of the upgrades that you're fortunate the LBS didn't go ahead and do, you're awfully close to the low end of a "real" fat bike. One that likely already has one of everything you want, with perhaps swapping in a favorite bar or pedals down the road. There are even choices under $1,000, and a few options surprisingly near $500.
> 
> ...


He ended up charging me $160 for Grips, bar/stem, and red platform pedals. ahhh I love bikes.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MisterDolo said:


> Canoe said:
> 
> 
> > ... the cost of the upgrades that you're fortunate the LBS didn't go ahead and do...
> ...


Parts cost and the time of someone who knows what they're doing. 
If we want the LBS to be around when you need them, expect to pay them enough that they can stay in business, and hopefully make a living wage.

Now imagine what the charge would be for a 9 speed rear, including a new hub that fits it (along with new spokes (they don't know the stock spokes so would be unlikely to roll them if they're long enough)), new derailer and a new shifter. Then for reliability and no service problems, new cables that they know. New brakes are straight forward, and they'd likely recommend new levers too (and their cables).

Now you start to see the benefit of something "off the shelf" that has one of everything you want.

While not as nice as a 9 speed rear, now you see why those of us with Dolos like that we can swap in a $10 to $15 7 speed freewheel with a greater range, a compatible shifter for $15, or a great bearing for the bottom bracket that's <$10. For those of us who like to tinker, have limited funds, or want to see how much can be done for as little cost as possible, it can be done. Just don't expect it to perform like a "real" fat bike (nor be safe for all of the same rides/conditions), nor experience the joy of riding a bike with great quality components. But you do get the Fat Fun...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

MisterDolo said:


> He ended up charging me $160 for Grips, bar/stem, and red platform pedals. ahhh I love bikes.


At least these are parts that will probably work on the next bike too.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dolomite available online at Walmart, currently $349.97.

Farm & Fleet has them back in stock again, $249.99 plus shipping.
Mongoose 26" Men's 7 Speed Dolomite Fat Tire Bike at Blain's Farm & Fleet

Also, Mongoose Men's Dolomite on Amazon, new, four sellers: $594.99, $600.00, $626.88 and $1,399.88. :nono:


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

$1400 for a dolomite!! WOW!


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

Hello everybody. I tripped across this thread and registered. I've been mountain biking for a few years now. I just bought a Dolomite after seeing a picture of one. I picked it up at Academy for $250 - this thing is a bargain IMO. I spent the weekend riding it up and down the beach. Tonight I mount a better seat (OUCH!) and tear it down for the post-beach cleanup. I can't wait to hit the trails with it this weekend.


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## Betos (May 13, 2014)

What's up guys I also run in too this and I wanted at first to buy the beast but after some resource I wanted to get the dolomite it jest looked and had better upgrade from the beast so I looked online and found the lowest price and shipped to Cali and must say I'm very happy and looks dope but the seat was killing me lol I upgrade that quick lol and may do some mods but I wanted to ask you guys do you know we're I can find fenders for these bad boy or what other mods would you recommend and thanks in advance well talk soon I well post the link here hope this helps someone same money late.

Academy - Mongoose® Men's Dolomite 26" 7-Speed Fat Tire Bicycle


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

holy run-on sentence Batman! Punctuation is your friend!


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Stumbled upon the Dolomite on accident looking for 4 bikes for my family last weekend. Bought the wife and kids bikes and ordered a Dolo from blains. I'm very happy a fat bike exists at this price point. Ive got plenty of other hobbies(restoring an FJ40) that require my pocketbook. 

Bike comes tomorrow. I stopped down at my lbs and bought the Mega Range freewheel and rapid fire shifter. looking forward to hitting the trails this weekend.


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## Babe (May 11, 2014)

Betos said:


> What's up guys I also run in too this and I wanted at first to buy the beast but after some resource I wanted to get the dolomite it jest looked and had better upgrade from the beast so I looked online and found the lowest price and shipped to Cali and must say I'm very happy and looks dope but the seat was killing me lol I upgrade that quick lol and may do some mods but I wanted to ask you guys do you know we're I can find fenders for these bad boy or what other mods would you recommend and thanks in advance well talk soon I well post the link here hope this helps someone same money late.
> 
> Academy - Mongoose® Men's Dolomite 26" 7-Speed Fat Tire Bicycle


Thanks mucho for the heads up. Ordered one, stay tuned for mods.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Looks like "Academy" wants to sell some Dolomites.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Wow it is nice to be back on 2 wheels again. Very impressed with the Dolomite. Compliments everywhere I went today. Did a 5 mile trek through The Ohio State Campus, hit a few trails on the way home. Huge muddy smile.

Cant wait for my Green Floaters!


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## Meteorpete (May 14, 2014)

Thought I would let everyone know that this bike is now available in Canada at Costco.ca for $259.99.
Meteorpete


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

kelbo said:


> Wow it is nice to be back on 2 wheels again. Very impressed with the Dolomite. Compliments everywhere I went today. Did a 5 mile trek through The Ohio State Campus, hit a few trails on the way home. Huge muddy smile.
> 
> Cant wait for my Green Floaters!


Nice bike. Since you will probably be using that gear quite a bit, adding a couple links to your chain would be good. That der. is maxed


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Meteorpete said:


> Thought I would let everyone know that this bike is now available in Canada at Costco.ca for $259.99.
> Meteorpete


Shipping and handling included!


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## BigGDog (Oct 15, 2013)

Freaking nice


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Is that $259 US or Canadian? what's the currency conversion make it?


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Im on it. Picked up some chain at my lbs yesterday. Can't decide if I'm going to drill the rims or not yet. I'm 6' 2", 260, so I'm a little apprehensive. My wife has ridden it around a bit and started to like it. I may pick up a Boris at the end of the year, it's really growing on me.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Im 6'2" and am about 240 with my riding gear. Ive never had any issues with my drilled rims and have ridden my bike hard.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Good to know. headed to the hardware store for a hole saw and gorilla tape. 


One thing I noticed that is different between my bike and the bike in the beginning of this thread is my grip shifter is different. It says falcon on it and the gears are in the reverse order.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> Is that $259 US or Canadian? what's the currency conversion make it?


Costco.ca (nada), not Costco.com. That's $259 CAD, plus sales tax.
$259 CAD is $237.90 USD, or $228.38 USD Cash Rate.

Less that what we'd pay for a pair of hydraulic brakes here...


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Not sure if there are any failures with the FreeWheel on the Dolomite, but am seeing that there are issues with the read hub on the Beast, and breaking axles. Would something similiar to this fit Dolomite?

Formula SL1240/DC170 Fat Bike 6-Bolt Disc Hub Set 135/170mm Black


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

The rear hubs are completely different on these bikes. The Beast has a coaster brake and it's the coaster brake driver that is breaking, not the axle. The Dolomite has a solid rear axle, so you're not going to see the same failures you're seeing with The Beast (not that you may not have some other failure)

I know this because I had a Beast and dealt with this issue.

My .02


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

I understand that the beast and the dolomite have different hubs, I was just asking if this was what I should look for on a Dolomite, if I should want/need to find replacement hubs.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

I have replaced and straightened so many FW axles at the shop I would not be surprised if it was the Achilles heel of this bike, YMMV.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Did my first singletrack ride today. Alum Creek Phase 1 Trail at Alum Creek State Park. 5.4 miles. Alum Creek Phase 1 Trail Mountain Bike Trail, Galena village, OH Good ride, very tired. The trail was awesome. Ive never ridden anywhere like this before. No mechanical problems with the Dolomite, although I have swapped to a sram shifter and rear der. Tires were the biggest issue. Did nothing but spin in the slop, but I expected that with that center rib it has. Floaters will arrive sometime next week I assume. Even with the Megarange, the gearing could be lower. Not to mention I'm way out of shape. As the mud packed on, I really started to not like the weight of the bike. I dont know if I want to invest any more in this bike or sell it and buy a Boris X7 or 9.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

@kelbo: 

Sounds like this was your first ride, so you probably don't realize that riding muddy trails usually isn't allowed at most trails. Most trail systems want people to wait until the trail dries out before you ride. Riding wet trails can cause a lot of damage. I'm not in OH, so I don't know the rules, but I'd imagine it is frowned upon on these trails. If you are leaving tread marks and mud I'd collecting on your tires, it is too wet.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kelbo said:


> ...Even with the Megarange, the gearing could be lower. Not to mention I'm way out of shape. As the mud packed on, I really started to not like the weight of the bike. I dont know if I want to invest any more in this bike or sell it and buy a Boris X7 or 9.


That's why people like a dual or tripple in the front, and manually switch between 22T and 32T, depending on where they're riding. Or add a front derailer if you've the bucks and inclination.

The bike will be both lighter and roll better once you've gotten rid of the stock tires and stock tubes. But that still won't compare to a Boris.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

RYNOFREERIDE said:


> @kelbo: Sounds like this was your first ride, so you probably don't realize that riding muddy trails usually isn't allowed at most trails. Most trail systems want people to wait until the trail dries out before you ride. Riding wet trails can cause a lot of damage. ...


Oh oh.


> http://ohiosingletrack.com/trailcondition.php?tabid=50 Alum Creek Phase 1 & P2:
> ...I worked some drainage issues and ruts today
> ...
> Reports from the trail are that it's still very muddy. Please do not ride and reverse all the work that was done yesterday.
> ...


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

geeze said:


> Not sure if there are any failures with the FreeWheel on the Dolomite, but am seeing that there are issues with the read hub on the Beast, and breaking axles. Would something similiar to this fit Dolomite?
> 
> Formula SL1240/DC170 Fat Bike 6-Bolt Disc Hub Set 135/170mm Black


FYI, I'm pretty sure the stock rims on the Dolomite are 36-hole and these are only 32-hole hubs. They won't lace up correctly... (?) (I've never laced a wheel myself - looks pretty daunting!)


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## twistedmentality (Apr 1, 2011)

kelbo said:


> Did my first singletrack ride today. Alum Creek Phase 1 Trail at Alum Creek State Park. 5.4 miles. Alum Creek Phase 1 Trail Mountain Bike Trail, Galena village, OH Good ride, very tired. The trail was awesome. Ive never ridden anywhere like this before. No mechanical problems with the Dolomite, although I have swapped to a sram shifter and rear der. Tires were the biggest issue. Did nothing but spin in the slop, but I expected that with that center rib it has. Floaters will arrive sometime next week I assume. Even with the Megarange, the gearing could be lower. Not to mention I'm way out of shape. As the mud packed on, I really started to not like the weight of the bike. I dont know if I want to invest any more in this bike or sell it and buy a Boris X7 or 9.


i also agree with you about still needing lower gearing. i am currently looking for a compatible front crank and smaller chain ring. once you go with a different tire you will also notice that the bike is easier to pedal.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

I will definitely be mindful of the trail from now on. There were about 5 riders out there in my time span and the trail was definitely rutted in a few sections. Canoe thanks for the link. I will check that before I ride next time. Hitting the trails in my FJ40 tomorrow.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kelbo said:


> ...Hitting the trails in my FJ40 tomorrow.


I had to sell my BJ40. 



rotaidalg said:


> ...(I've never laced a wheel myself - looks pretty daunting!)


But a lot of fun! Rather straightforward with instructions/procedures. I've done it a few times with Roger Musson's book. Still have to refer to it each time...


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Merry Christmas!










Literally. I feel like if Santa had a fatbike... Rims may get flat black very soon.

Floaters came in today. I will replace this pic with a better one, my boys wanted to see a tire tonite before I mounted it.

Took the kids on a bike ride yesterday and have yet to see another fat bike. I did get "Nice Pugsley" twice yesterday. I thought that was hilarious.

My bottom bracket (not sure if that is the correct terminology) was loose yesterday so I took it apart and regreased everything. Tightened up and the clicking went away. Factory grease was barely a glaze.


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## Shawn Clark (May 27, 2014)

Here's a good Dolomite story.

I was out camping in Leavenworth, WA over the weekend. I had my bike laying down in front of the RV and as I was walking up to it, I hear this loud boom and some dirt in the air close to my bike.

Just as I start to inspect the front wheel, BOOM again! The 1st boom was the tire popping off the rim and the 2nd was the tube popping. I think it was the elevation difference between home and camping (1200 feet or so) and the heat from the bike laying in the sun for a few hours that caused the tube to explode.

The rear was looking pretty tight as well so I deflated it before it blew up.


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## The norseman (Mar 31, 2014)

How do I drill my rims like that???


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*cheap 2-wheel trailer for my "truck" Dolomite...*

I had this In-Step brand kid's trailer in the shed for a couple of years. Mounted the hitch plate to the Dolo (too short w/stock 16" diameter wheels...) & added some wheel-chair wheels to the frame - viola! Trash/cargo hauler! 









Even w/my narrow drop bars the trailer isn't too much wider than them...

(sorry, the perspective on this pic makes it look WAY wider...)









Now I can do propane tank exchanges by bike if I want to...


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

The norseman said:


> How do I drill my rims like that???


Right to Bike: How to drill your rims.


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## The norseman (Mar 31, 2014)

Thank you Kelbo!!!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Shawn Clark said:


> ...The 1st boom was the tire popping off the rim and the 2nd was the tube popping. I think it was the elevation difference between home and camping (1200 feet or so) and the heat from the bike laying in the sun for a few hours that caused the tube to explode...


How much PSI are you using in your tires?


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

blown240 said:


> HOW TO DISSASSEMBLE:
> 
> Its pretty easy to do with common tools.
> 
> Screw the freewheel to a block of wood using the teeth to hold the freewheel in place. Using a screwdriver, or a punch, and a hammer, tap the lockring to unscrew it.


When taking the freewheel apart, do you spin the lockring clockwise or counterclockwise? looks like in the pic, counterclokwise.

Have a 11-34t Superwide Megarange freewheel, would like to add the 28t into. That is if it makes sense once I see how it goes back together and what cogs need to be swapped around.

currently it has
11-13-15-18-21-24-34

was hoping for something like
11-14-18-21-24-28-34


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

geeze said:


> ... currently it has 11-13-15-18-21-24-34
> was hoping for something like 11-14-18-21-24-28-34


You've got the elusive and rather pricy 11-34T. To get down to 11T and fit on, they had to make it somewhat different than the others. Before you start tearing it apart, go read.

Shimano Re-invents the Freewheel

(and here Traditional Thread-on Freewheels)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

If you can pull that custom stack off, you'll have:


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Well my Dolo is down. Took off to my buddy's house earlier this week and the crank arm fell off. When I picked it up it was full of metal shavings and the nut was cracked from being over tightened it looks like. Called Pacific Cycles and the parts are on back order so I found a replacement nut from my trusty Toyota spares parts bin. The arm has some play, but it's holding so far.

Picked up a used dirt jumper to play around with till my parts arrive. '10 DK Asterik.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Canoe said:


> If you can pull that custom stack off, you'll have:
> 
> View attachment 899072


Ok this is cool, but unsure if your graph is showing me that this is a good setup, or not.

what app are you using to create these graphs?


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

This was the original nut holding my crank arm on...it is mildly stressed.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

geeze said:


> Ok this is cool, but unsure if your graph is showing me that this is a good setup, or not.
> what app are you using to create these graphs?


Just a spreadsheet in LibreOffice.

I think your custom stack 11-34T could be a great setup for a hilly area. Combined with a lower count front, your gear choices would definitely be biased to the lower gear inches for hills or getting through soft sand.

From the first blue line, you can see the stock Dolo freewheel driven by a 36T front. The left side, at around 37 gear inches, is the easiest to pedal, and is insufficient for many hills or terrain. The ticks on the line show where each gear falls in gear inches. So you can drive the Dolo and see which "gear inches" you'd use or wouldn't use. The yellow, green, dark blue and orange lines show the gear inches the stock freewheel would yield when driven by 34T, 32T, 30T and a 28T front.

The 11-34T has a huge range. The blue background area shows examples of that stock freewheel, driven by the stock Dolo 36T front (blue line), along with a 32T front (lighter green line) and a 28T front (darker green line). You can see the big gap between the far left tick and the next tick on the line, showing the gap between the 34T and the 24T gears in the stock stack. This is intentional in the stock stack, as it's an "alpine" stack, with a nice spread in six gears with a granny 34T to manage extreme hills. This stock stack with a 28T isn't bad, giving six choices from a step better from a stock Dolo through to it's top cruiser gear, with a granny at the bottom coming in around 24 gear inches. But with a fat bike, we may be wanting more choices spaced through the bottom end (hence your custom stack).

The green background area shows where your custom stacked 11-34T freewheel's gears would place. You can see the nice even spacing of your intended custom stack, and that it's biased in the low gear inch range (towards the left), and compare where they would place relative to the stock Dolo (your practical experience in Dolo pedaling). With the stock 36T front, you can see where it gives a solid step better on the low end, but the far right may never get used (unless you want to pump it going downhill?). All the way down to a 28T front where you can see you'd get close to the lowest of a stock Dolo and still have three lower choices. A 32T front yields two lower choices.

The down side is the size of the gaps in the above 50 gear inch ranges.

While the 11-34T is certainly impressive, would you ever end up using the 11T?
From this chart and earlier charts in this thread, you can see where the 13-34T or 14-34T would "drop" the 11T and leave a place in the stack for another gear that's a choice in the range that you'd actually use. Depends on where and how you'll be riding.

It's hugely tempting to have a range like 11T to 34T, but seeing how it graphs out, I'm quite content to have a 14-34T rear with hand switching a 22T/32T front. Way more, and usable, choices. 
A nice 11-34T Shimano can go for $200+ on ebay... that buys a lot of parts for a Dolo. (new 13-34T and 14-28T for a custom stack, more supple tires, new trigger gear selector)


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Wow. $200 guess I lucked out when I picked up from bikewagon for $24. Might just put on ebay. And see if I can recover most of the price of the dolo since I ordered it from the initial group of bikes from wall mart before they raised prices


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

geeze said:


> ... I picked up for $24. ...


$24?
Lets check here. 7 speed Shimano Freewheel 11-34T?
I see that store had a "Shimano CS-HG50 7-Speed MTB Freewheel 11-34T" listed.
CS is cassette. That should have been MF-HG50 (MF stand for Multiple Freewheel). Their photo shows a Freewheel. I hope yours is the Freewheel and it was still around as it was mis-listed as a CS.

There's been some DNP Epoch reported around, but the Shimano is the "one" to find.

The last one I found went for $225, used, great condition. Most sold over $150. A friend found two sales of these, used great condition, both over $250. They've been hard to get since ~2008 and scarce/non-existent since 2012, hence the crazy price. Fewer people needing them now, so no telling on the price...

But if yours is brand new... who knows.

Perhaps you want to search for the sites where people were looking to find these back in 2009 to 2012, then post there asking what people think is a good price to ask for a good-used or brand-new one. 
An ebay auction right now may not be the best idea, as most people are out riding, not checking the web.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

A 13-34T or 14-34T is a likely a better place to start than with 11T.

*TAKE CAREFUL NOTE* of Blown240's post on the *different types* of stacks with the *old vs. new freewheels*. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11157937

Here's a repost showing where the stock 13-34T and 14-34T freewheels fall in gear inches on the Dolo. Some custom stacks shown too.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

I see some talk that the early Dolomites had bent/twisted forks from the start. How would I check my fork iw bent/twisted. Currently I have the bike apart.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Dolomites are $249 right now at target.com


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## kinesis1 (Jun 20, 2014)

Hey all, new here, and have been itching for something a little different to take for my work commute. Ordered a Dolomite, vee rubber speedster tires, and lighter tubes, since i figure 40lbs will be way better that the insane 49. I read theres still many other places to cut weight, but this seemed to be the best bang for the buck!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Yup! That's a great way to loose some weight!

If your really into modifying it, you can get a new handlebar and seat post. Also drill the rims. Depending on your weight you can also replace the wheels with 24 spokes instead of the 36 it has now.


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## jaybird1950 (Jun 21, 2014)

26" Mongoose Dolomite Mens 7-speed Fat Tire Mountain Bike,
PRICE JUST WENT BACK DOWN TO $275 AT WALMART.COM. Bought one 12 days ago, called Wally World and they gave me a $75 credit.


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## kinesis1 (Jun 20, 2014)

Hey other than the color is there any difference between the rim on the beast and dolomite? I can get them for free, was thinking to switch the color since i hate the red rims. Thoughts?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

nope. same rim...


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## kinesis1 (Jun 20, 2014)

blown240 said:


> nope. same rim...


Perfect. What size spoke wrench do i need? Never did this before shoild be interesting!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Building wheels is fun. 

Just get one of the round spoke wrenches that have all the sizes. They are pretty cheap.


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## kinesis1 (Jun 20, 2014)

blown240 said:


> Building wheels is fun.
> 
> Just get one of the round spoke wrenches that have all the sizes. They are pretty cheap.


Great will do! Im just glad i can put the white rims on it, not a fan of red.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

it's the red park tools one. i found the nipples on mine inconsistent some were difficult to get the wrench on.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tawaitai said:


> I tried to order the Dolomite$266.00 and it has a Hawaii Surcharge $74
> shipping $2.97 $14.48 tax. That surcharge SUCKS! How did yours qualify for free-ship?


So you're trying to order from Walmart.com, but with a shipping charge of $2.97. This means that you've ended up with Standard Shipping instead of the Free Shipping. On my order, when I chose between Free Shipping and SiteToStore, Walmart.com automatically built the order with "Standard Shipping" on the order instead of Free Shipping, but with the quick Estimated Delivery time and a $2.97 charge for Standard Shipping, I figured close enough and didn't explore how to select Free Shipping.

Standard shipping on my Dolo order: ordered ~10:15 AM Tuesday, it left the warehouse near San Fran late afternoon on that Tuesday, arriving in upper NY state at 12:30 noon on the Thursday, two days later. For that fast air shipping to Hawaii I can see a $74 surcharge.

So try selecting Free Shipping and see if that has the surcharge. Or try selecting "Free store pickup with Site to Store" and select your closest Walmart store.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

I threw a little Verde flavor on the Dolo. Perfect for cruising High street and Ohio State Campus. Just having fun...


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## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

Canoe- 
RE: fast air shipping 12 days? fast by who's standards. that's the ETA for it to reach here in Hawaii, and NO site to store option either! The price we pay to live in Hawaii.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tawaitai said:


> Canoe-
> RE: fast air shipping 12 days? fast by who's standards. that's the ETA for it to reach here in Hawaii, and NO site to store option either! The price we pay to live in Hawaii.


Walmart.com is having issues in recent days with the estimated delivery date showing around a week out. A friend ordered a Massif, indicating a delivery of July 10th, but by phoning it turns out the actual delivery date is expected to be June 28 or 30th. So the 12 days you saw may or may not be accurate.

There's two shipping methods. Free Shipping and Standard Shipping. As you show a shipping fee of $2.97, you've got it set to the Standard Shipping, and you're also getting a surcharge for Hawaii. 
So go in and get it set on Free Shipping, and see if there's a surcharge on Free Shipping too. 
Then phone, to see if that part of the online ordering is correct, and there is a surcharge. If there is, ask if they'll waive it. Nothing to lose by asking.


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*latest reconfiguration of the cockpit... 02Jul12*

I've actually put in about 30 miles w/this new setup & I like it a lot better for shifting, control & braking power (w/the original MTB brake levers).


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

HI everyone I just bought my Dolomite at my Walmart Supercenter. I paid 225 for it and put ten psi in the tires. I weigh 294 pounds an fear the lower pressure might cause the tires to fail. I am a heart patient and bought the Dolo to use to get back into shape.
My daughter saw it and thinks it looks like a monster bike with the four inch tires. I would like to change the tires out for some lighter skins. if I do that whjat type and what psi does anyone recommend? '


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Hi again! Rode it for fifteen minutes on a paved bike path near home. (snore). Ran great. I will hjave to get a longer seatpost though . there is only three inches left in the seat post when properly adjusted. Where can I order one that fitsa that is three inches longer than stock? I just don't want to have a failure while I go around the Lion's Club park trail near home. my daughter is planning joining me too. except that she will ride her trek.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Stripped out another set of cranks with very little seat time on the new set. Back to the old school Blackcomb until I figure out what to do with this bike. Considering picking up and XR-pro stuffing on a set of Knards.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> ... put ten psi in the tires. I weigh 294 pounds an fear the lower pressure might cause the tires to fail. ... I would like to change the tires out for some lighter skins. if I do that whjat type and what psi does anyone recommend?


For nicer tires, you're looking at 120 TPI tires. 
On-one-floaters seem to be the most popular 120 TPI for the money. Available in black or some colours too. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/colored-one-floaters-899795.html
You'll want to ditch the stock tubes as well. They're pigs for rolling, and they're heavy too.

You'll have to play around with the PSI to find what works for you. Try from six to 15 PSI, by 1 lbs steps. Then once you're close to what you like, vary by 1/2 lbs. steps. 
Different ground = different PSI.

Do look at this post for a list of things to do. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11152236

For your seat post, try your LBS.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe:

I will try to get some lighter tubes to start. The Dolomite Is a pretty nice bike. yes the brakes needed some 'break-in' , but, after my ride they work fine. The seat will be the next to go. I want to put on a more traditional Mountain bike saddle like a Bontrager or WTB. I have been an avid cyclist for more than 50 years and a 'dirthead' for 30 or so. So getting a Dolomite is my way of getting active again after a three year hiatus due to heart problems. On pavement, it rides just like my 1940"s Schwinn Phantom that I rode when I was 11 and then modified when there were early dirt trails in our subdivision outside of Chicago. Later today, barring any rain, My 30 yr old daughter and I plan on riding on the dirt and gravel roads in the nearby Mark Twain National Forest for a while.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

kelbo said:


> Stripped out another set of cranks with very little seat time on the new set. Back to the old school Blackcomb until I figure out what to do with this bike. Considering picking up and XR-pro stuffing on a set of Knards.


really? those parts are that bad? would it be worth it to do this? https://fatbeachbikes.com/TommiSea_...sories/22-122-mm-sealed-bottom-bracket-detail


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> Canoe:
> I will try to get some lighter tubes to start. ...Later today, barring any rain, My 30 yr old daughter and I plan on riding on the dirt and gravel roads in the nearby Mark Twain National Forest for a while.


It's a department store bike. Riding it without greasing the hubs, bottom bracket & headset has a high chance of either trashing or reducing the bearing life. Check that link.

The tires are not supple. The tubes are not supple. I haven't heard of much improvement with switching the tubes without switching the tires. No idea what lighter more supple tube you could use with the huge volume of the stock tires.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe:
Anything am going to try first will be to reduce rolling resistance. I am going to try the Vee Mission tires as you suggested. annnnd replacing the tubes too. I went for that ride this morning. The stock tires are ok but I want something lighter. My daughter out distanced me on her trek wsd 5000 series bike and had to keep waiting for me. lol. As soon as I get my retirement next month I will order some at my lbd.
by tje way I took the dolo to my lbs. they took apart my hubs and crank for 50 and lubed them up.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> Canoe:
> Anything am going to try first will be to reduce rolling resistance. I am going to try the Vee Mission tires as you suggested. annnnd replacing the tubes too. I went for that ride this morning. The stock tires are ok but I want something lighter..


It's not just lighter. It's how supple they are, or they absorb too much energy rolling into the flat spot and back out again. 


Canoe said:


> For nicer tires, you're looking at 120 TPI tires.
> On-one-floaters seem to be the most popular 120 TPI for the money...


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe: 
I went to the on one site but they are in Great Britian. I have never ordered anything from overseas. I was wondering what the conversion rate is, pounds sterling to USD By the way, my sister who still lives in Chicago went through the garage at the family home. She found the frame and wheels of my phantom and the Brooks saddle that my great uncle put on it. she is going to bring it down to me on her way through town. She said the tires are dry rotted, so, we are going to put it back into ridable shape to tool around town. She also found my 67 paramount road bike and that one I am giving to my nephew for his collection. Went riding at the trails in the park at subset, did three laps around a tame section of wooded trails, about 4 miles. the Dolo is preforming great. Noit creaks or mystery sounds of any kind.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> Canoe:
> I went to the on one site but they are in Great Britian. I have never ordered anything from overseas. I was wondering what the conversion rate is, pounds sterling to USD...


An example from March 2014.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/other-kind-clownshoe-now-available-903274.html#post11064896
That site had them in black (one link/part listing) but are sold out as I write this, or in colors (another link/part listing; currently green & pink in stock).

A US link, but more $. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/colored-one-floaters-899795-7.html#post11289423


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Thank you for the link Spidennis. I am going to upgrade the bb and keep pedaling. 

oldbear52, I ordered the On One Floater direct from the UK and it took about 2 weeks or so to get to Ohio. Cant beat the price if you dont mind a little wait. They send you an international tracking number as well. The tires perform 110% better than the stockers. With Surly tubes, my bike is noticeably lighter. It was 44 pounds with the Floaters and stock tubes IIRC. I haven't weighed it since with the new tubes. It makes riding the bike so much easier and it doesn't scrub as much speed. Not to mention the green looks great.


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## gpinzone (Jul 9, 2014)

I just got mine today and put it together quickly. I noticed the front rotor is not aligned with the front disc brake. I tried loosening the adjustment screw they show in their video, but even with it backed out (and the brake inoperable), the rotor still rubs against one side. I'm assuming it's a different adjustment not shown on their youtube channel?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

gpinzone said:


> .. the front rotor is not aligned with the front disc brake...


You might find a post on adjusting disc brakes here Brake Time

If no luck, you'd better throw a photo up here so we can see what's up.

(I assume your hub axle is properly seated)


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Now my handicapped son wants one!*

:thumbsup::thumbsup:Now sin ce I have mine, My 29 year old Autistic son wants one. Seems he can't work the hand brakes So I am thinking of getting him a beast. He loves to spiun my pedals and keeps calling mined

ollymite and blue. Got the schwinn today and dug up smoke old ken da tires for it cleaned it up and now it sits in my bedroom . Haven't ridden it yet because I am too busy riding over at the lions club trails and running errands for my wife.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

I think it's time to consider a triple crankset for the Dolo. Rode the trails tonight and then hit the wallyworld with our trailer to get some groceries. I would like anyone's recommendation as to what triple to use. I put an old Bontrager saddle on it and ordered some tires and tubes from on one. On another post I wanted to know where I could get a longer seatpost. , but, the stock one seems to be working well enough. A friend saw the Phantom tonight and wants to buy it., funny what a little cleaning will accomplish. (didn't sell it.). My daughter and I rode about five laps on dirt and and four on pavement. I am running 12psi and it works well for the dirt and Ok for the pavement. so our total mileage today was 18 miles and my daughter is thinking of getting a fat bike too. By the way Academy Sports has Dolomites at $249.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

oldbear52 said:


> I think it's time to consider a triple crankset for the Dolo. and my daughter is thinking of getting a fat bike too. By the way Academy Sports has Dolomites at $249.


keep us posted on that triple! I'd be thinking about doing the same &#8230;&#8230; so what was it, not high enough, low enough, or just more fine in that range? cause I use up all my gears usually and when I get a fat bike (maybe this one) I want to know what I'll have to do to it.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

Have you done the Megarange swap? That made a world of difference on mine. $18 in parts, including the tool to remove the freewheel. 

Spidennis, add up the cost of this bike plus the upgrades you would do and then consider the Gravity Bullseye or another model. As much as I like the dolo, Im going to have to invest in a better bike for hitting the trails. Mine has seen a decent amount of street miles and only 5 miles of trail and I'm starting to chase one problem after another. I'm 6'2" 250 as well, so maybe I'm at its limits for a rider.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Thank you for all the good info in this thread.
After piloting a recumbent trike for a few years, while lusting for a fat bike, I just ordered a Dolomite.
I'm looking forward to getting back in the dirt again.
Again, thanks y'all.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

The Local Walmart Got two in and my 5'4" daughter snapped one up. Yes Kelbo I am going to get a Megarange thru my lbs. My daughter also ordered Two VeeRubber Mission tires for hers from Fatback in Alaska. They have 60tpi tires for $56.00. couldn't Ride too much today. 90 plus degrees Keeps me inside. I am a congestive heart failure patient. We are planniong to hit the trails at seven for an hour. My daughter stripped of the stickers except for the headtube looks cool. Added a Bontrager water bottle cage and a wireless Cateye computer. she rode around the apartment complex and then let her brother ride it on the grass. Seems he can handle the hand brakes pretty well.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

thanks for this forum. ordered dolomite earlier today. i have a chance of having an enjoyable bike due to all the info you have provided. it will end up being a first e-bike build, but it's got to be right first. thankyou


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

We rode for an hour and a half in the dirt. The sunset was nice and we found that the gearing does need to be upgraded. Climbing is okay but we need more variety. The new gearing should ease a little stress on our knees. there were a couple places that when I rode my trek single speed were just a little too rough. The Dolos wider stance and tread we just rolled right through. At the age of 62 I just needed a bike that would fit into my fixed budget, I am a retired radio dj and need to get back into shape.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> ... we found that the gearing does need to be upgraded. ... just needed a bike that would fit into my fixed budget...


The Dolo comes geared for cruiser bike range. 
You can get the following parts used or new. 
(From past posts.) 


Canoe said:


> Get that 7-speed 14-34T freewheel (or the 13-34T version). New, it's available for under $10 if you look around.
> The stock front is 36T (teeth/tooth). You can get a double or triple front (22-32-42T), but then only use the 22T or 32T, by stopping and changing the chain over by hand when you're riding on the flat vs. on hills. If you find you want to switch a lot, _then_ you look into adding the appropriate hardware to do that job.


If you go back to the graphic at this post
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-13.html#post11161518
the first line shows the gearing of the stock Dolo. Definitely cruiser range, from ~37.5 to ~75.5 gear inches. 
The light-green background group shows the 14T-34T megarange freewheel mentioned above, with the Dolo stock 36T front, and also with fronts of 22T, 32T and 42T. 
If you compare how much easier it is to pedal between the stock Dolo's lowest (~37.5 gear inches) and next lowest gear (~44 gear inches) (or any other gear), you can estimate how much easier it may be with the 34T of the megarange with the stock Dolo front of 36T, with that pairing providing ~31 gear inches. With a 32T front driving it, that 34T rear is down to ~27.5 gear inches, and with a 22T front, it's down to ~19 gear inches.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

:thumbsup:Canoe-
Thanks for your input. I am going to have my lbs install a Megarange. When my tires get here I think I can handle the install. my arthritis isn't too bad in my hands yet. LOL. I bought some park lube and we did the lube job ourselves on the daughter's Dolo. A nice thick layer. The headset was the lowest. In do have one complaint with the Dolomite though, it's a minor one, it would be nice to have a second set of water bottle bosses. My daughter uses a bottle and as hydration pack. Well got to scoot before the heat rises and my daughter has to go to work We are going to ride a seties of trails a little ways out of town.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Stem backwards. My present bike is up and as far back as it will go. Not upright enough. Neck pain and pressure on old wrists. The stem trick may be my salvation. Dolomite on the way and I will definitely reverse the stem. Genius. Thanks!!! My riding will be far more enjoyable now.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> ... Not upright enough. Neck pain and pressure on old wrists. The stem trick may be my salvation. ...


Or BMX bars. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049131

Do find that list of things to grease, etc., preferably before you ride it to maximize bearing life.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

steve1324 said:


> Stem backwards. My present bike is up and as far back as it will go. Not upright enough. Neck pain and pressure on old wrists. The stem trick may be my salvation. Dolomite on the way and I will definitely reverse the stem. Genius. Thanks!!! My riding will be far more enjoyable now.


Check out this or search for adjustable bike stem. Just make sure you get rize stem size. Amazon.com : Ritchey Adjustable 31.8 100mm Black Road Stem : Bike Stems And Parts : Sports & Outdoors


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Got it.
> Assembled.
> First ride.
> 
> ...





FatBikeNoob said:


> Check out this or search for adjustable bike stem. Just make sure you get rize stem size. Amazon.com : Ritchey Adjustable 31.8 100mm Black Road Stem : Bike Stems And Parts : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> View attachment 907533


Jamis has adjustable stem. Still not enough. Reversal the trick. On the dolo, if stem reversed, how does it affect riding characteristics? Or does it?


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

what valve stem size and style are on the dolomite.?


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> Stem backwards. My present bike is up and as far back as it will go. Not upright enough. Neck pain and pressure on old wrists. The stem trick may be my salvation. Dolomite on the way and I will definitely reverse the stem. Genius. Thanks!!! My riding will be far more enjoyable now.


You might try out some handlebars like the On One Marys. On-One Mary Handlebar I knew before I got my Fatty that them flat wide strait bars had to go. On this bike I was amazed at the difference it made. All my bikes have similar bars.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

on one tires black 20% off


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Got it.
> Assembled.
> First ride.
> 
> ...





Canoe said:


> An example from March 2014.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/other-kind-clownshoe-now-available-903274.html#post11064896
> That site had them in black (one link/part listing) but are sold out as I write this, or in colors (another link/part listing; currently green & pink in stock).
> 
> ...


just ordered 2 tires. 90 bucks shipped. Use paypal


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Got it.
> Assembled.
> First ride.
> 
> ...


from UK site


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

what size tire tube


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Amazon.com : Origin8 2011 Devist-8er 2 Tire - 26" x 4.0, Wire Bead, Belted, Black/Black : Bike Tires : Sports & Outdoors 35 bucks each


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> what size tire tube


If you want to save weight, this is what I use:
Kenda Superlight 26" x 2 4 2 7" 32 mm Presta Valve Mountain Bike Inner Tube | eBay


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> ...On the dolo, if stem reversed, how does it affect riding characteristics? Or does it?


When stock is reversed, the head tube angle results in the stem going downwards, feeling somewhat wrong, but it's livable. With an adjustable stem (or a raised stem), you can raise it up and it feels right again. 
I haven't tried the BMX bars with the stock stem, but I'd expect you can have the stem out front and be fine. And the BMX is an ~8" rise, so you've got a lot to play with.

Tube & rim opening are schrader.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Replaced the stock bottom bracket bearings. ...I had a spare set of new cups & bearings sitting around for the Beast. They fit the Dolo.
> YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (for under $10).
> (Note that this is dry bearings in a race that you will have to grease. "Sealed" refers to the rubber seal that encompasses the axle shaft.)


Looks like we may have an alternate soon, in a Sealed Cartridge Bearing at 100mm.
VP Components VP-BC63
Expected to be in the $20 range.
VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM








UPDATE: from the distributor: *J&B Importers stocks it which means most every bikeshop in America has access to special order one. *

UPDATE: 2014-08-15


VP-USA said:


> Currently: The BC-63 is available in 11 sizes between 137.5mm and 164mm. They skip every 2-3mm just like 68/73mm shell but *nothing even close to the 189mm you are looking for*.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

I hope that my lbs will stock that bottom bracket> I like the Idea of a sealed bb for
my dolomite. Found some gently used Vee Mission tires at my lbs as well as some surly tires for my son's brutus,. It cost me for all four tires and two tubes and mounting right at eighty dollars. The tires were swapped for some "city slicks" so they could use their bikes solely as a commuter. the missions should run real nice on my Dolomite. I haven't had a chance to ride since Monday because I spent Monday and Tuesday in the hospital due to a minor malfunction of my defib in my chest. Monday it misfired and knocked me back into my chair. My cardiologist -had the thing adjusted and now I am fine. Tomorrow I will start riding again. BTW I also picked up a new saddle from the spare parts bin five bucks and a megarange f0r eight,


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> I hope that my lbs will stock that bottom bracket...


They're just out. 
Special order by your LBS from J&B Importers. As of this afternoon, not even listed on their web site yet.



oldbear52 said:


> ...minor malfunction of my defib in my chest. Monday it misfired and knocked me back into my chair. My cardiologist -had the thing adjusted ... I also picked up a new saddle from the spare parts bin five bucks and a megarange f0r eight,


misfired and knocked you back into a chair?
that's what they call minor?
(where'd they get it, the same place you got the saddle and the megarange?)
I hope they had an awfully good explanation on why it happened and why it won't happen again. 
Sure don't want that happening while you're riding!


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe-
My defib is a combo unit With a pace maker too. It is 5 years old and due for a battery replacement and Upgrade. the Doc explained that I was the unlucky recipient of a shock, because the battery is almost gone and they are going to replace it next Monday. I wonder who built it Cateye maybe Or Bell? Lol or maybe some other discount bike place. Ands I do thank you for your comments. they made me laugh.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

the defib/pacemaker misread my heart rythnms.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> ... I wonder who built it Cateye maybe Or Bell? Lol or maybe some other discount bike place. ...


As long as it wasn't by Mongoose, 
or something they got from Walmart...


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Lol, or worse yet kmart. by the way academy sports has dolomites for $249.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Just ordered a Brutus for my son. It was 199 plus shipping. He saw a picture of it and said it looked like a bee. at our cabin it will work great on the gravel and dirt roads out there


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> Just ordered a Brutus for my son...


The one speed, coaster brake, 26" rims, same as the Beast?
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mongoose-beast-review-etc-walmart-fatty-846019-17.html#post10900720

Compare to the Dolo here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11051083

And here you have a Massif, Dozer/Beast/Brutus and a Dolomite. DOLOMITE GALLERY | Rat Rod Bikes

He could certainly learn a lot if he start modifying it... but the cost quickly approaches a Dolo.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mongoose-beast-modifications-846664.html

For older kids, and some adults, some are starting with the Massif (20" rims, disc brakes, 7 speed) and building up. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/massif-20-fatbike-901513-6.html#post11115096


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

*Son's Brutus*

Canoe:
Thanks for your input. The main reason we are getting him a single speed coater brake Brutus is that he doesn't have the motor skills to activate the hand brakes or shifters. He was born with autism and motor skill challenges. He is 28 almost 29 and loves to ride bikes. He has a hand me down mongoose bmx bike but it's way too small.

My Bikes: a $7 Schwinn phantom, Trek Marin single speed and a '67 Schwinn road bike


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Its a 1947 Phantom with the original springer fork and stripped of fenders rear rack and tank


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oldbear52 said:


> ... he doesn't have the motor skills to activate the hand brakes or shifters...


Understood.
If he needs easier pedaling, you can go for a larger gear at the rear. You might have to file the dropouts to let the axle forward a tiny bit (1/8") with the stock chain.

It should be the same stock tire as the Dolo, but if you need to limit his speed, remember to let some air out of the tires. A friend controls the top speed of her child's bike that way. If he can handle more speed, you know about 120 tpi tires and a lighter tube for an easier roll, and an appropriate rear gear.

For another with steering challenges, we made that more stable for that child's needs with careful selection of the pressure in the front tire. For another, a bike with both a rear lever activated rim brake with coaster brake so he could "learn". He finally was using only the lever brake, so he "graduated" to a kids mountain with levers for front & rear. Watching closely, as he's still coasting and delaying while he looks to see which lever(s) as he's used to one.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe: 
He and I went for as ride and he used the Phantom. I rode the Dolo With the new tires(The surly Larry 3.8)) He worked the brakes well and It was just an around the block ride to see how he could handle a bigger bike. Both of us did well. we made three laps , about three miles of sidewalk/path path. He did put his feet down but by the middle of lap two he was using his feet on the coaster brakes. He is 5'9" and weighs 160. I am just waiting for the bike to arrive for him. they say monday next week.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

is anyone having trouble with the stock Shimano Tourney derailleur's inability to hold the chain on the 34t cog?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I missed this earlier
Mongoose Argus - Alloy Fat Bike
2×10 drivetrain, hydraulic disc brakes, 100mm cutout rims, 4″ Vee Mission tires, 0 stack headset, three sizes (SM, MD, LG), ~34.35 lbs.
$999
First Look: 2015 Mongoose Argus â€" alloy framed fat bike | Mountain Bike Review

Another site says they'll be selling direct to the consumer.









p.s.
(I've no issues yet with the 34T.)


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

I saw the thread for it too.....maybe when I do my taxes I will be able to afford one. I had to tinker with the adjustment but it works fine I haven't had a use for the 34t. as far as the Argus goes I hope that it is as good as they say the videos were ok. I will probably keep the Dolomite for hauling groceries
.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Canoe - As far as the new mongoose goes I wonder just who will handle them? LBS? Or mail order direct from Pacific?


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Mongoose.com


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

Thanks skota. Canoe: I finally got the the tire pressure figured out 10psi for all around riding. My son needs a little less like 8psi. We went for a ride this afternoon. Went to national forest recreation area and rode for a hour and a half. a few climbs and a lot of loose gravel alongside a creek. I was pretty tired when I got home and so was my daughter. Weight loss for the week two pounds (289). Found out that the creek is a blue ribbon trout area so we are planning to bring the trailer and our fly fishing gear Saturday. (and a little beer for a treat after we ride.


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

By the way UPS brought my son's bike toady. After fifteen minute of assembly he rode around the apartment. Gonna post some pics as soon as my daughter retrieves her camera from her storage.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

just put mine together and went for a ride. Very flat canal trail. Didnt use 34 gear til the end, going up hill in parking lot. It jumped off. Just wanted to see what bike was like before I start with the improvements. Didn't even check tire pressure. Didn't look low. What a beast. Wore me out. With seat at right height, front bars sucked. Too low for me. Earlier recommended on-one Marys a definite thought. Definitely need something with a longer tube. Don't think just reversing the stem will help or an adjustable. That thing needs to come up and hands back. Got the new megarange. Waiting for new bearings and other stuff. Will then go to LBS and get tuned. Hopefully no shift issues then. Thumb shifter has arrived. Tires on the way in August. Not many decent mid drive options for this bike. 100mm BB eliminates the ones I really wanted. Oh well. Keep searching


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> just put mine together ... Didnt use 34 gear til the end, ... It jumped off.


If it's stock, the lowest is 28T. Some megarange go to 34T. 
Cables may need adjusting, and it's common for cables to stretch with initial use and need readjusting.

> Didn't even check tire pressure. Didn't look low. 
Dolos usually arrive over inflated. For fat bikes, you adjust the tire pressure for the best ride on the terrain you're on. Many fat bike newbies ride their fat bikes with way too much psi. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-8.html#post11090431

Different tire pressure can make for a very different ride.


Canoe said:


> You'll have to play around with the PSI to find what works for you. Try from six to 15 PSI, by 1 lbs steps. Then once you're close to what you like, vary by 1/2 lbs. steps.
> Different ground = different PSI.


> front bars sucked. Too low for me. 
A number of bars possible. As are adjustable stems. And there's always BMX bars.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Just started looking into front suspension forks for my Dolo. Won't be doing anything extreme on the bike. Can't seem to find anything reasonably priced yet. Any suggestions?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> Just started looking into front suspension forks for my Dolo. Won't be doing anything extreme on the bike. ...


Start with what would you be doing with a Dolo that you need more front suspension beyond what a front fat provides?

Talking front suspension has you sounding like you're heading beyond the few basic parts that improve one's Dolo experience (plus paying a LBS to do it?) and into bigger bucks for suspension forks that may cost more than everything else so far. 
You could quickly find yourself in territory where having spent that total money on a better bike to start with, would give you much more bike.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

i had no idea how expensive they are. I guess there is no such bird as an inexpensive suspension fork. not much of a used bike or parts in my area either.I think they haven't been making them for fattys very long either. oh well. It was just an idea


Canoe said:


> Got it.
> Assembled.
> First ride.
> 
> ...


----------



## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> i had no idea how expensive they are. I guess there is no such bird as an inexpensive suspension fork. not much of a used bike or parts in my area either.I think they haven't been making them for fattys very long either. oh well. It was just an idea


I believe the Rockshox Bluto just came out earlier this year....only about $650. Cheapest bike that comes with one is the Sturgis Bullet Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM


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## oldbear52 (Jul 6, 2014)

I found that the Fat tires more than make up for the lack of a suspension fork. Is the geometry of the Dolomite suitable for a suspension for k in the first place? Or is that rock shock made to work on a Dolomite? 
My dolomite is plenty cushy for me,


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

oldbear52 said:


> I found that the Fat tires more than make up for the lack of a suspension fork. Is the geometry of the Dolomite suitable for a suspension for k in the first place? Or is that rock shock made to work on a Dolomite?
> My dolomite is plenty cushy for me,


Good questions. I need to play with air pressures more. And get more seat time before I think about it any more. Upgrades tomorrow except new tires. At some point it will become electric. Then I may have to think about it again.


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

Canoe said:


> Mongoose Argus - Alloy Fat Bike
> 2×10 drivetrain, hydraulic disc brakes, 100mm cutout rims, 4″ Vee Mission tires, 0 stack headset, three sizes (SM, MD, LG), ~34.35 lbs.
> $999
> First Look: 2015 Mongoose Argus â€" alloy framed fat bike | Mountain Bike Review
> ...


That's a big box brand for you. They still go with $999 instead of $1000.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Gearing, I need to know about the low range …. I do a lot of riding on the beach and now I'm towing this trailer using beast wheels. I'm in the first gear , the granny gear a lot of the time on the trek bike, but then the second gear is quite a jump . from what I saw the spacing of the gears is pretty close? Is is low enough for me? could I change out the front chain ring to get me into a better lower range? 

also, I don't see any fat bike on their website? how many gears does this have? is it a x1 or x2 on the front? 

yeah, I'm in the market for a fat bike to replace that trek.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

spidennis said:


> Gearing, I need to know about the low range &#8230;. I do a lot of riding on the beach and now I'm towing this trailer using beast wheels. I'm in the first gear , the granny gear a lot of the time on the trek bike, but then the second gear is quite a jump . from what I saw the spacing of the gears is pretty close? Is is low enough for me? could I change out the front chain ring to get me into a better lower range?
> 
> also, I don't see any fat bike on their website? how many gears does this have? is it a x1 or x2 on the front?
> 
> yeah, I'm in the market for a fat bike to replace that trek.


The Argus isn't out yet. Coming.

You can use lower teeth count chainrings and get into easier pedaling. 
Same for larger rears.

To compare gears from one bike to another, use Gear Inches. If you're in your granny you know how that feels. Same for your high gear. Calculate what those are in Gear Inches, then if you calculate Gear Inches for bike's you're looking at (or new components for your drive), you have an idea what to expect. For example, knowing all the gears lets you know they'll be a jump between the granny and the next one, or is the lowest just very low and the rest spaced evenly from there.

Back in this thread, there are a number of posts showing the stock gearing of the Dolo vs. some easy and cheap upgrades of the freewheel and chainrings, in gear inches. There's even making a custom stack freewheel so there's useful gears without big jumps.

If you measure the diameter of your tire and give me the count of the teeth on the front chainring, and the gears on the back, I'll give you the gear inches for you. 
Or try here Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

Easy by hand
Gear inches - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Or you can incorporate the crank arm length to get a Gain Ratio to compare the whole of the mechanical advantage from one setup to another. 
Gain Ratios--A New Way to Designate Bicycle Gears


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Stem raiser and short adjustable stem ordered from Amazon. This should get the bar up and back and may allow for a variety of handle par choices with this greater adjustability


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

what type of spray paint should be used if I paint the handle bars


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

Does anyone know what the stock crank arm length is?


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

Byookanun said:


> Does anyone know what the stock crank arm length is?


pretty sure its at 170 x36T


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

Canoe said:


> Looks like we may have an alternate soon, in a Sealed Cartridge Bearing at 100mm.
> VP Components VP-BC63
> Expected to be in the $20 range.
> VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM
> ...


Any word on the spindle length of this...will it be wide enough for a 190 rear


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

kris7047th said:


> Well your *reason* was flawed. But if you don't want one .. that's different. You read me wrong. I have no problem with you enjoying whatever you buy, but there are those reading these forums looking for advice or just trying to figure which way to go. To* infer *that fat bikes are just good for winter just isn't so. To each their own .. but lets be honest what fat bikes can do.


..just thought I'd comment on what I highlighted in blue.

You come off as a dick who feels everyone should buy a piggy because YOU feel it's the best thing in the universe.

It's clear there are better options out there. But you take it to a level of pure annoyance. Any advice you have posted I will read it and disregard because you're clearly ignorant when it comes to being helpful.

Reason for my post here: I own both the Dolomite & Beast and before I even had either bike I lurked around this forum reading what helpful posts others provided.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

That was posted 4 months ago
By the way, she doesn't have a dick

Pedaling


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I am a new Dolomite owner. Owned the Mongoose Beast for nearly two months now. The Dolomite for a week. I'm unsure which one I like better.. but I will say the Dolomite looks like a great bike and it's build quality is much higher than the Beast. Should fit my needs quite well roaming the neighborhood and hauling back beer to the house!

Best part.. I paid $225 for it at walmart, new (not a returned item). Down side is I had to take a 7hr round trip to go pick it up.
I was going to order online but if I didn't like it, mailing it back is a pain in the ass. Walmart already sent me a replacement beast due to bent rims on the first one sent. 2nd unit is perfect but you can't simply return online products to local stores


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

rjedoaks said:


> That was posted 4 months ago
> By the way, she doesn't have a dick
> 
> Pedaling


I know it was 4 months ago. But I've read other posts on this forum from the same member. If not a dick then sounds like a *****. Take it or leave it!


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I'm shopping for my 1st Fat Bike and at I was going to pass on this bike and move on to something nicer but now I'm thinking maybe this bike isn't all that bad. I mean look how many $1,000 or more bikes have mechanical brakes vs hydraulic. Are those bikes really worth the extra money. I'd love a full suspension but $4,000 for the Bucksaw is too high for me. I only make $35,000 so throwing 11.5% percent of an entire years wages at a bicycle is not going to happen.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Well the key is what exactly are you buying the bike for??

I could afford a $3k fat tire bike but that’s like me buying a sports car - I’d never use it for it’s reason of life.

That’s why I feel so great about the Beast and Dolomite  Looks cool. Works just fine. And fits the needs of just staying active and getting outside around my neighborhood. 

..now I wouldn’t go jumping dirt ramps or playing chicken with trees out in the woods on these bikes!!


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

Does anyone have any pics of how the front chainring attaches to the crankarm?


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

spidennis said:


> and can another chain ring be added?


To the original crankset? No.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Byookanun said:


> Does anyone have any pics of how the front chainring attaches to the crankarm?


and can another chain ring be added?


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

anyone ride this bike thru deep soft sand yet? are the gears low enough?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

spidennis said:


> anyone ride this bike thru deep soft sand yet? are the gears low enough?


They are not low enough.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-17.html#post11319377


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Canoe said:


> They are not low enough.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-17.html#post11319377


My current (loaner) bike has a mega range on it. I found it mentioned (somewhere) that it works on the Dolo too? Is this it? Amazon.com : Shimano 7 Speed Freewheel, 14-34, MegaRange : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

Bicycles parts I don't know too much about, off road motorcycles I am much better at &#8230;&#8230; I think I can get the hang of all this?


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I don’t know much about parts either.. 

I assume this is for the rear??


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

spidennis said:


> My current (loaner) bike has a mega range on it. I found it mentioned (somewhere) that it works on the Dolo too? Is this it? Amazon.com : Shimano 7 Speed Freewheel, 14-34, MegaRange : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors


That's the one I put on my Dolo (I really like it), I also bought a Park Tool FR-1 to remove the stock freewheel.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

_flatline_ said:


> That's the one I put on my Dolo (I really like it), I also bought a Park Tool FR-1 to remove the stock freewheel.


Here's a pic of it. yes, it goes on the back. Now if I can find out how to put a two ring on the front then I'd be golden.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Yep, that's the one I put on mine.

I haven't replaced the front chain ring (yet), maybe in the future.
I'll have to check out You Tube for some how to.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

One concern I'd like to point out is the tire popping out of the rim. 
On the beast the front tire popped out a few hours after riding. It was parked and just blew out on the front. So bad it locked up the front. Super glad I want riding cause im sure I would have flipped. After the lbs greased my hubs and seated the tries it hasn't happened again..

Then with the dolomite the rear tire popped out at slow speeds about a mile from home. Let air out and tried to pop it back in with no luck. So it was a long walk home. 

Needless to say I don't feel safe going fast on these but do trust em to roam slow


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Mongoose dolomite at the beach - YouTube
here's a youtube of a Dolo in sand, and he's having to stand on it.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

That's me riding in the sand... The bike really needs a Megarange freewheel. But that video was shot after a 6 mile ride, all in the sand, and several times in the water up to the middle if the wheels, So I was pretty tired.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> One concern I'd like to point out is the tire popping out of the rim. ...After the lbs greased my hubs and seated the tries it hasn't happened again...


Too many people riding these with the tire pressure they arrive with. Check your tire pressure.

Different, dual or triple front? 
Others have covered in this thread what they did. Check the posts.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Too many people riding these with the tire pressure they arrive with. Check your tire pressure.
> 
> Different, dual or triple front?
> Others have covered in this thread what they did. Check the posts.


Regarding the tire pressure, they came with about 5psi on both bikes. The beast when I got it I pressured up to I think 25 psi. Now I have them both at a solid 20 psi and seems to be fairly tight and roll well.

The dolomite I pumped to 20 psi as it was also sitting at 5psi at the store. I did seat the tire to make it even all around. I figure I go slow the first couple weeks on em. Plus I am waiting for my fat ass seat to come in. The stock seat is far too skinny for my taste!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oops said:


> Any word on the spindle length of this...will it be wide enough for a 190 rear


I got this. All I got. 


VP said:


> ...BC-73 bottombracket in 100mm shell width. To my knowledge none of our US distributors have purchased any in part because those bikes are still new for the most part and its hard to determine the proper specs for service items that last as long as a BB. Also the axle lengths are 137.5, 140 142, 143, 145, 147, 149.5, 151.5, 153, 154.5, & 164.


UPDATE: 2014-08-15


VP-USA said:


> Currently: The BC-63 is available in 11 sizes between 137.5mm and 164mm. They skip every 2-3mm just like 68/73mm shelld but *nothing even close to the 189mm you are looking for*.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> ... I was going to order online but if I didn't like it, mailing it back is a pain in the ass....2nd unit is perfect but you can't simply return online products to local stores...


Or you can order online with delivery to a local store for you to pickup.


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## Squashman (Jul 7, 2013)

So who is going to be the first person with a Mongoose Argus!


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Squashman said:


> So who is going to be the first person with a Mongoose Argus!


I doubt it will sell like the Dolomite. $1,000 can get you a bike with a better reputation. That kinda like Ford saying the base package Focus will be $45,000 next year.


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## spidennis (Aug 1, 2012)

Squashman said:


> So who is going to be the first person with a Mongoose Argus!


 not for that price!


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Cody01 said:


> I doubt it will sell like the Dolomite. $1,000 can get you a bike with a better reputation. That kinda like Ford saying the base package Focus will be $45,000 next year.


I wholly concur.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Not for $1000! I am not a serious rider to justify that kind of cash!


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Are you serious on that price? $1k? No way


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

Does anyone know the axle nut size...of the Dolomite?


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## AdventureRider (Jul 17, 2014)

Considering the dolomite right now, but want to know if anyone is putting some real distance on this thing and how it is holding up. Also is there anyone around 6 foot tall that is able to fit this bike correctly after making some adjustments. I did see "The Beast" model at Walmart and being 6 foot, the frame felt too small, maybe like a 16-18 inch which always feels small for me.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

AdventureRider said:


> Considering the dolomite right now, but want to know if anyone is putting some real distance on this thing and how it is holding up. Also is there anyone around 6 foot tall that is able to fit this bike correctly after making some adjustments. I did see "The Beast" model at Walmart and being 6 foot, the frame felt too small, maybe like a 16-18 inch which always feels small for me.


I am 6'4 and I find both bikes comfortable however I just roam the neighborhood so I'm not doing much when it comes to being awesome.

Being I own both bikes.. I like both equally the same in terms of comfort. The beast is a slow rider and the frame fits me with about 8" of lift on the seat.

The Dolomite is also comfortable however I will be buying a set of BMX handlebars like the ones found on the Beast. The handlebars sit a bit low for my taste..

I have about 20 miles on my Beast so far.

About 5 miles on the Dolomite.

The Dolomite feels far more solid than the Beast in terms of quality and assembly. Other than a loose set of range gears (whatever you guys call em around here) the Dolomite is a great bike and offers great value for the price of $225 I paid in store a couple weeks ago!


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Byookanun said:


> Does anyone know the axle nut size...of the Dolomite?


I'm a "noob" so I am just going to assume you mean the nut that holds the wheel/hub to the frame of the bike.

It's a 15mm socket (just verified now)


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

rotaidalg said:


> I tried to go where "the deer (but no antelope) play" - was a "no-go" for the sage-brushy/rocky/steep stuff...  I ended up staying on roads & an ATV track for the ride. About 45 degrees F. Rainy & sleety ("graupel" here in Missoula...) Tires were at about 16 PSI. Saw a fox, several mule deer, ospreys & hawks. Some Bob-whites... Sunny when I started but the left side of my head was numb by the time I got home - wind from the SW & rainy...
> View attachment 880483
> I couldn't make any headway as there were too many rocks hidden in the grass. Also it was real steep here. (I needed a lower gear yet than what I had with the Shimano Magarange (13-34) freewheel and the 28-38-48 front chain-rings.) I was trying to follow the mule-deer & elk trails on this hillside near Iron Cap on the east side of the Bitterroot Valley.
> View attachment 880484
> ...


I just wanted to post up and say I truly enjoyed your photos that you posted! Looked like an awesome ride! (I'm more of an "active" person when rain/clouds lurk the sky above me).

Thanks for postings your photos.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

AdventureRider said:


> Considering the dolomite right now, but want to know if anyone is putting some real distance on this thing and how it is holding up. Also is there anyone around 6 foot tall that is able to fit this bike correctly after making some adjustments. I did see "The Beast" model at Walmart and being 6 foot, the frame felt too small, maybe like a 16-18 inch which always feels small for me.


I am 5 foot 8. This cock pit way to stetched out for me. When seat at right height has me very far forward. You probably have longer arms. I want cruiser to easier MTB trails. Getting the things already suggested. You are going to have to make this cockpit your own. I have ordered a ste raiser and a short adjustable stem. I want a 45 degree sweep trekking bar as well. With some rise. Jones loop looks awesome except price. New to all this, but seems getting the cockpit right and the already mentioned upgrades is key. Cockpit key!!!!


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## AdventureRider (Jul 17, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> I am 6'4 and I find both bikes comfortable however I just roam the neighborhood so I'm not doing much when it comes to being awesome.
> 
> Being I own both bikes.. I like both equally the same in terms of comfort. The beast is a slow rider and the frame fits me with about 8" of lift on the seat.
> 
> ...


I want you to tour on your dolamite for 400 miles along the CA coast, and tell me how everything goes. Take video, pictures, and a daily diary for the bicycle blog you will create. Document which parts fail and what you replaced them with. I would also like to see pictures of the tire tread after those 400 miles. Travel light...frame bag, rollable tent up front, and the large touring compression rear saddle bag for the rear.

Tips would be to bring rema vulcanizing fluid and rema patches for flats and a bicycle specific multi-tool. Do this, and tell me after this journey that you wouldn't do it again to prove that you are not serious about riding.
------

Or don't. Any way that dolamite does look slick. Looks like you need more seat post. Definitely look into a stem riser to get those bars higher as well if you do decide to take some longer trips here and there perhaps. This bike would be way too small for me, as I hear it would be about a 17.5 inch frame.


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## Johanneson (May 24, 2012)

Jason,
Got any pics of your Dolomite to share?
Thanks


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Would someone please supply the Dolomite fork length in mm? Can't seem to find this info. Thanks


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

also the rake in mm. I called Pacific Cycles. No help. Google no help either.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

I finally got a chance to install the replacement seat, adj.stem and trekking bar today.
Took a little "shakedown" ride and must say I like the more upright position very comfortable.

































I'll put in a few miles tomorrow to acquaint myself with the trekking bar configuration.
The mods came in at around $100.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I need to replace my rear gears. Not sure what you guys call them but the 7 speed gear set is loose and clunks when peddling


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

These are on Target.com for $249.99 w/ shipping in stock last night. I just about got one on impulse since they are harder to come by at that price by then after thinking about how dumb it is that its a one size frame and the fact that it needs $500 in upgrades I figured I'd hold out for something else. Anyway they were in stock if anyone wants one.


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

I want to change out the crankset. I know the shell is 100mm but how long of a spindle width do I need for the bottom bracket?


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

Byookanun said:


> I want to change out the crankset. I know the shell is 100mm but how long of a spindle width do I need for the bottom bracket?


The factory spindle is 189mm...you can swap cranks without changing the BB..

sent from my GS3 with my thumbs


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

oops said:


> The factory spindle is 189mm...you can swap cranks without changing the BB..
> 
> sent from my GS3 with my thumbs


Yeah but the bottom bracket is crap and heavy. I'd like to swap it all.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Byookanun said:


> Yeah but the bottom bracket is crap and heavy. I'd like to swap it all.


The sealed cap & bearings set for the BB is really nice. There's the cartridge that's just out that's expected to be ~$20. If you start going for the really nice sets, watch out as if you do that for everything, as you'll very quickly spend more on parts than you spent on the bike (and more so if you're paying someone to do the work for you), with a combined cost more than an already complete "real" fat bike with better quality components all the way around. Perhaps for what you want, starting with a Dolomite is not the best option.


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

Canoe said:


> The sealed cap & bearings set for the BB is really nice. There's the cartridge that's just out that's expected to be ~$20. If you start going for the really nice sets, watch out as if you do that for everything, as you'll very quickly spend more on parts than you spent on the bike (and more so if you're paying someone to do the work for you), with a combined cost more than an already complete "real" fat bike with better quality components all the way around. Perhaps for what you want, starting with a Dolomite is not the best option.


Actually I am upgrading everything on the bike except the wheelset. All the parts I am using is stuff I already have. And I do my own work. BOOM!!!


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

_flatline_. Nice pics. Like those trekking bars. Makes me think of a mountain goat. What model is that seat?


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> _flatline_. Nice pics. Like those trekking bars. Makes me think of a mountain goat. What model is that seat?


Thank you steve1324.
The seat is a Nashbar SC-1.







Very comfortable indeed.
The bars with the addition of an adjustable stem give me the ability to stand nearly upright, which I find to be pretty cool.

I'm very pleased with the upgrades. They make the Dolomite a super bike for my needs. I still want to change the front chain ring to a 20something. Even though I did put a Megarange freewheel on I want to go super low. 
I wanna pull stumps rather than jump them.
Thanks again,
__bob__


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

After having some ride time in on both bikes..

The disc brakes suck on the front of my bike. The back will lock up the tires at a decent speed. Took a lot of minor adjustments but at least the back is legit.

The Dolomite is HEAVY. Geez. It makes my Beast feel lite. It's quite a noticeable difference. This is with the 21t rear cog installed on the beast over factory 18.

Overall, I'm happy with both bikes. Both serve their purpose.



















Oh yeah, got my new bike plate in the mail.. I wanted a red/white plate and the only authentic one I could find is from hawaii

Also got a new seat. It's okay. I need to break it in more but it's not as comfortable as my $11 special seat I got for the beast!


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

_flatline_ I have read somewhere. that many have used 3 gear cranks. Outside one used as a bash guard. Manually moving chain to one of the 2 gears. Others have just got a new gear with lower teeth count.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> _flatline_ I have read somewhere. that many have used 3 gear cranks. Outside one used as a bash guard. Manually moving chain to one of the 2 gears. Others have just got a new gear with lower teeth count.


I have an old Jamis Cross Country with BioPace chain rings. I will see if I can swap the rings and crank arms. 
Thanks steve1324


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

_flatline_ said:


> I have an old Jamis Cross Country with BioPace chain rings. I will see if I can swap the rings and crank arms.
> Thanks steve1324


. Lol. My other bike is a Jamis


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Jamis makes a good bike.
my other bike is a tadpole.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Just ordered my shimano mega range. 

I figured I might as well.. may be nice having that mega range to use from time to time. And I’m taking my rear wheel to the local bike shop later this week to have him grease the rear hub for me and install this part. I found it online for $10 cheaper than amazon. $18 shipped.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

ImaBum said:


> Just ordered my shimano mega range.
> 
> I figured I might as well.. may be nice having that mega range to use from time to time. And I'm taking my rear wheel to the local bike shop later this week to have him grease the rear hub for me and install this part. I found it online for $10 cheaper than amazon. $18 shipped.


SWEET! I think you will like it.
You may want to take your whole bike to your lbs so they can be sure the derailleur is adjusted correctly. I had to play with the "B" screw to aid in shifting the big ole 34T cog.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

_flatline_ said:


> SWEET! I think you will like it.
> You may want to take your whole bike to your lbs so they can be sure the derailleur is adjusted correctly. I had to play with the "B" screw to aid in shifting the big ole 34T cog.


I may just do that.. He charged me $20 last time I took just both wheels in for the beast to service the hubs and reseat the tires for me. I thought that was a fair price.. So I may just take the whole bike in and have him work his magic for me if possible.

Last time I went in there he kept referring to my tires as "motorcycle" tires that stunk lol he was a cool guy though. I was a bit worried at first when I took the tires in there and told him what bike it was off of cause I know lbs don't like cheapy box store bikes but for my use & needs he agree'd it was a great bike for it's primary use in my life! So needless to say i feel better going back again without feeling like an insignificant fool.


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

ImaBum said:


> I'm a "noob" so I am just going to assume you mean the nut that holds the wheel/hub to the frame of the bike.
> 
> It's a 15mm socket (just verified now)


Thread size, not wrench size.


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## charris543 (Aug 5, 2014)

Has anybody found a good kick stand to use on these bikes? The one that comes with the bike is not adequate. I was thinking about one of the double stand that mounts under the center, but an not sure it will work because elf the angled plate. I will eagerly await the replies... Thanks...


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## Byookanun (Jul 22, 2007)

What is a kickstand?


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*longest ride (road) yet on the Dolo...*

I rode from Florence into Missoula Montana yesterday to see a matinee movie. It was 19.33 miles via my route into town and took 1 hour and 21 minutes (I had a medium headwind the whole trip in.) & my average speed was over 14 MPH.
Coming back I had a stronger(!)  headwind & by using an alternate (less traffic & more scenic) route & taking a smalll detour to visit friends I added just over 5 miles to that leg of the trip. Here are the totals for distance, avg. speed, time, etc.









Needless to say, the headwind on the way back was a bit of a "killer" & my stop to visit in Lolo for about an hour & a half was NOT good for the legs! :\

All good now! The dropped bars definitely helped going into the wind!


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

*Mods summary from 02 & 15 July 2014...*

I realized I haven't been keeping up w/posting my mods on my Dolo...

















































I'm not sure what the weight is on this thing now - but, obviously, I'm not too concerned w/weight! 

It's really comfortable going & I wish I had a few more gear-inches on my top-end at times... My seat is off of our Kent Tandem (my wife wanted a wider cushier seat!) & is really quite comfortable. Once you get this thing rolling I suspect the inertia from those big tires just keeps it going(?) so I'm not really that taxed in my riding. Climbs are a bit more difficult (obviously!) but nothing unmanageable w/the Megarange cluster on the rear. The day I rode into Stevi w/the trailer I averaged about 11.3 MPH (empty propane tank & gas can) into town & only about 10.4 MPH back (all loaded/full!) The raod through Lee Metcalf Wildlife refuge SUCKED as they'd just oiled the dirt/gravel portion & I had a major rainfall going through there (sticky muddy mess!) - I need a longer rear fender for sure!


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

I'm thinking of adding a laid back seat post to give a more crank forward ride.
I haven't been able to find to find one with a 28.6 diameter. Has anyone done
this to their Dolomite?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

_flatline_ said:


> ...laid back seat post ...with a 28.6 diameter. ...


Intend to. Haven't yet. 
There's always a shim so you can use 27.2 mm instead of 28.6 mm (1 1/8").
Cane Creek Seatpost 28.6-31.6mm Shim - Performance Sales Exclusions

Someone over at ratrod was making them custom too. 
Heavy duty layback seatposts | Rat Rod Bikes

You might have better luck looking for layback or laidback.

Although they turn up in the strangest places...
http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/cruiser-thread-154717-2.html#post3219938


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Thanks Canoe! Rat Rod Bikes is looking Good!
slowriderz looks like "the man" for seatposts!


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Intend to. Haven't yet.
> There's always a shim so you can use 27.2 mm instead of 28.6 mm (1 1/8").
> Cane Creek Seatpost 28.6-31.6mm Shim - Performance Sales Exclusions
> 
> ...


What is the dolo seat post diameter?


----------



## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

steve1324 said:


> What is the dolo seat post diameter?


1 1/8" or 28.6mm


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

So my grandparents have two beach homes in oregon. 

This is great because I just so happen to be taking a 11 day vacation up there to visit! So I’ll be getting some good ride time in on the beach, as long as my knee is okay. 

Needless to say I hope I’m fine and dandy in the next two weeks.

Just having a hard time figuring out what bike I want to take. I love the Beast just coasting around. 

But I ordered the mega range gears for the rear and a 3” rise handlebar to sit better on the Dolomite.


----------



## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

You will really appreciate that megarange. And tires if you don't have them. Rd my Dolo with the new on ones today for the first time. Since i basicalyy was on a flat trail with some asphat , gravel, hardpack, and some sand, i tried 18 psi. Less rolling resistance. It was great. Starting to like the bike more withe changes. Prior to tires and new bars, I was thinking what have I done buying this pig? :eekster:


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I haven’t upgraded the tires or tubes yet.

I’m debating on what route I want to take.. I kinda want to take the white wheels off of the Beast and put them onto the Dolomite.


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## Fairmont (Aug 9, 2014)

I'm looking at the Dolomite and "mite" buy one, but for 499 there's a pretty good fat bike on BikesDirect that has better components and an aluminum frame (and comes in sizes). So I might do that.

Interestingly, The Beast seems to have several names and colors. Not only is it the Beast in red, green and blue, but it's also called the Mongoose Brutus at Academy Sports. It's black (perhaps dark green) with yellow rims...

And it's called the Mongoose Dozer at Toys R Us, sporting an orange frame and blue rims (for all you Florida or Auburn fans, I suppose).


----------



## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Looks like we may have an alternate soon, in a Sealed Cartridge Bearing at 100mm.
> VP Components VP-BC63
> Expected to be in the $20 range.
> VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM
> ...


Hi, I'm Mike... I'm building a custom Dolomite. I'm new here but this place is a wealth of knowledge so far. So, thanks for that.

*NOW, to the important part.
*
Has _anybody_ been able to successfully have a LBS order the above VP-BC63 bottom bracket? I've gone through about four local bike shops now that just scratch their heads and look confused despite me handing them a printout of the part and a link to it on VP's website. J&B Importers wants a dealer number, which of course I do not have.

I need this bottom bracket, and I can't find a source for it... at all.

Can anybody help a builder out?

Thanks in advance.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Moike said:


> ...just scratch their heads and look confused despite me handing them a printout of the part and a link to it on VP's website. J&B Importers wants a dealer number, which of course I do not have...


On J&B Importers' contact page, account number is not mandatory. Ask them for a dealer near you.


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe said:


> On J&B Importers' contact page, account number is not mandatory. Ask them for a dealer near you.


Sent them e-mail, we'll see what happens. If anybody has an actual source, that'd be appreciated.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

So what exactly does that part do?? Or should I ask, why would I need it?


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> So what exactly does that part do?? Or should I ask, why would I need it?


It replaces the stock bottom bracket with a sealed bearing cartridge unit. Nice smooth pedaling, no taking it apart on a regular basis to clean/adjust things.

I disassembled my bottom bracket today to inspect/clean/lubricate the components. It's a hunk of crap. I had to chase the threads in the frame to clean the paint overspray out of them, and it was assembled at the factory dry, no anti-seize on the threads, so getting it apart without doing any damage was time consuming patience testing process.

The crank spindle still had cast marks on the bearing race surfaces that I had to polish out. Once I had everything polished, cleaned, lubricated, and packed with bearing grease it was a fairly effortless reassembly.

It will do till I can get the aforementioned replacement cartridge bottom bracket.

I did tear down my wheels today to clean/inspect/lubricate everything. I was able to get that chicken fat they use as lubricant off of all the parts and loose bearings. I saw that they painted the bearing races in the hubs so I wire wheeled the races clean and polished them smooth. Once I got everything repacked with proper grease and dialed in the wheels have a nice smooth spin with no chunkyness or excessive side play.

I removed and indexed my brake rotors, they were straight, so I guess I got lucky there.

Replaced the seven gear stack with a nice Shimano unit the LBS cut me a deal on.

Someone find me this bottom bracket already...


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

..well now I just feel like ****.

Guess I’ll get one now too haha


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Mogoose Dolomite front sprocket change. How to do it? 



Hi All, I'm new to this forum. I have a couple quick questions. I want to change the front sprocket from the 38t to a 25t or 28t. 
Can you use a ten dollar ebay BMX sprocket?
Do you need an adapter to make this work?
I reliese the chain might have to have 4 or 5 links removed
What type and size puller do I need to take the right side crank off?
I have read a lot of the posts about this and some say to change the whole crank. I would just like to change the front sprocket.
Does any one have pictures they could post of the right side crank removed? To see how the sprocket is held on.
Thanks in advance for any help. Gary


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ...I want to change the front sprocket from the 38t to a 25t or 28t... What type and size puller do I need to take the right side crank off?
> I have read a lot of the posts about this and some say to change the whole crank. I would just like to change the front sprocket.


If you go back here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-13.html#post11161518, at the top you can see how the stock gearing would change if you replaced the stock 36T front with a 34, 32, 30 or 28T. 
You can likely guess where it would place a lower front. Notice your gear choices are very compact if you do so. Which is why the megarange is popular, and if you want fancy do a custom stack of a megarange (all laid out back in those posts).

The sprocket/ring is crimped to the drive-side arm, effectively making it a one-piece. Not meant to be changeable.

I don't know the size of the puller. I just use one at the bike co-op.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> So what exactly does that part do?? Or should I ask, why would I need it?


Before that part was "available", this was the upgrade: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414
Surprisingly, it's lower friction than any cartridge I've ever pedaled, BUT - you have to use the right grease AND get the tension exactly right. The cartridge part is plug-and-play.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks for the info about how the sprocket is held on. (not meant to be changeable)
I have a metal fabricator friend and we will make it changeable if only once to go from the stock 38t to the 25t. 
so now the info I'm looking for is:
Will the dolomite chain work with the front bmx sprocket pitch and width?
Should I buy steel bmx sprocket because of width of teeth instead of aluminum
so I will work with the stock chain? 
What tool do I need to remove the right side crank arm on the dolomite? 
What size is the middle hole on a 25t bmx sprocket?
What size is the hole in the crimped on sprocket?
Again as always thanks in advance for any help. Gary


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ... I have a metal fabricator friend and we will make it changeable if only once to go from the stock 38t to the 25t.
> so now the info I'm looking for is:...


You're dreaming.
Your fabricator friend will explain to you why you don't want to do that, once you get the bike and put the part in his hand.

It's also way easier to get a crank with the teeth count you want, new or used, or with replaceable rings. You can also get the arm length you want too.

Look at what others have done. Why they've done it and what they get in the end.

p.s. the stock chainring is 36T
To not waste time, money & effort, you're going to have to pay attention to details, and hope that others giving you information have also done so. Which is why you want to wait until you have the bike in hand before ordering anything that is not something you've done before or not something that has been documented (like you can see in the many pages of this thread). Doing something that is not documented, with the bike in hand you'll have the parts in hand and can reliably measure and get workable replacement components or parts.

p.s.s.
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Installation and Removal- Square Spindle Type


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Moike said:


> Someone find me this bottom bracket already...


To follow up, after a lot of phone calls, J&B Importers put me in touch with Bicycle Express in San Jose who was more than happy to order the BB from J&B for me. They were polite on the phone, more than helpful, and even expedited shipping. So I should be able to pick it up later in the week when the rest of my parts start showing up on my doorstep. :thumbsup:

Nice change of pace after dealing with a handful of LBS'es in my area who dripped with disdain at the idea of someone wanting to work on their own bike instead of booking an appointment with their service boutique.

_*EDIT: *_ Found it on amazon as well, takes some very specific search criteria: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00H3T4LB0


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Need some help please. I am looking to get a triple chain ring set up to use the inner two rings. Is the following all I need to know to get something that will work? Crank length. Square taper. Gear sizes. MTB. Don't want to order something I can't use. An inner 22T would be really nice to have. Thanks!


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi, I still did not get any info about what tool is needed to remove the crank?
I have had the bike for over two weeks now. I'm mid 50's and retired so I am not some kid with big dreams. Just looking for info. Also still looking for the sprocket hole size and width on a steel 25t bmx sprocket. Thanks to any one who has this info. 
p.s. 38t was a typo. one more try Gary


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

rockonx2 said:


> Hi, I still did not get any info about what tool is needed to remove the crank?


I bought this (off Amazon) ~ Park Tool Co. » CWP-7 : Universal Crank Puller for Square Taper and Splined Cranks : Crank Tools


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> Hi, I still did not get any info about what tool is needed to remove the crank?


I take it you missed the link to a page that lists the steps to the job, the tools you can use, has photos (including one puller tool) and (showing the other puller tool) a video on how to?


Canoe said:


> ...
> p.s.s.
> Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Installation and Removal- Square Spindle Type


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> Need some help please. I am looking to get a triple chain ring set up to use the inner two rings...


Look back in the thread to where this is discussed.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Nice you found an LBS that works for you.


Moike said:


> ..._*EDIT: *_ Found it on amazon as well, takes some very specific search criteria: Amazon.com: Buying Choices: BB SET OR8 100x137.5 P/P XLT SQ STL-CUP ENG


Interesting, but not the same brand. With the VP Components VP-BC63 we at least have a favourable review. 


Canoe said:


> ... Expected to be in the $20 range.
> VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Look back in the thread to where this is discussed.


 Read everything in this this thread. Just asked for confirmation of what I think I got out of it. As I said a simple request. Still trying to learn. Not as easy for some of us.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks Canoe. and yes I did miss that link. Gary


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

My local bike shop install new mega range, adjust gears and service hubs for about $25. To me that seems great and makes me more willing to have him do more service work for me in the future vs trying to do it myself


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Nice you found an LBS that works for you.
> 
> Interesting, but not the same brand. With the VP Components VP-BC63 we at least have a favourable review.


*SO...*

My VP-BC63 bottom bracket showed up today. Along with my ISIS bottom bracket installation socket.

The VP-BC63 bottom bracket does in fact fit nicely in the Mongoose bottom bracket tube, it even looks really nice installed. But *THE VP-BC63 WILL NOT WORK* *ON THE MONGOOSE DOLOMITE* or any Mongoose fat bike by the looks of it.

The spindle is waaaaaay too ****ing short meaning that there is no way the stock crank arms will clear the chainstays. And any aftermarket crank arms would need a ridiculous S-Bend in them to clear.

So... Let's take stock of the damage:


I'm out 40 bucks in useless parts and tools I won't get back
I wasted three hours of my day

*Protip: *Don't take advice from anybody on this forum unless they have physically used the component in question. Otherwise you might just be lighting money on fire and wasting your time.

So I'm stuck with the crap bottom bracket in the Dolomite, and at this point after a couple weeks of dicking with this epic pile of **** I'm pretty sure I'm just going to toss the whole thing in the trash and call it an expensive lesson.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Good point. I was almost lured in by the ultra cheap pricing but after looking at other options I realized its worth the wait for something better.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I get you're angry but why toss it? Depending on your use do you really need to get rid of it? At least sell it on Craigslist. 

I have no problems with mine. It's mostly to roam the neighborhood and ride down to the market to grab beer. Also to ride on the beach or take camping to roam around. I would not put any speed on it or jump the thing tho. 

But at least enjoy it for what it is. I'm super excited I got mine for $225 at Walmart 3 weeks ago. I think it's well worth the price point


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

Moike said:


> *SO...*
> 
> My VP-BC63 bottom bracket showed up today. Along with my ISIS bottom bracket installation socket.
> 
> ...


SO you may take this the wrong way but you did start with a $225 dollar bike...while I am quite happy with mine (while I have spent more money on mine, its a fun project and my family isnt starving) its still a $225 Walmart bike,...that you want to throw a ton of money into.....you talked about wanting a custom build but did you think you could do it on the cheap....reading your post #527 it seems like you know some things...did you measure the OEM spindle...its 189mm...but the BB you ordered is 137mm (I think)...yeah its not going to work. Did you read back into this thread at all....When Canoe originally posted about this sealed unit, I quoted it and specifically asked him about spindle lengths...he replied with a cut/past of the email he received from VP..didn't show anything long enough...Canoe also posted about the BSA BB cups w/ seals...I went that route with Phil Wood grease....Huge difference..night and day from the OEM BB for only $10 and common tools...

mine gateway fatbike with upgrades for my "custom" build...

Drilled the rims (time)
Tires and 2.8 tubes ($), Truvativ crank (old/take off), XT thumbie shifter ($), PS adapter and direct mount FD ($), Shimano trigger shifter ($) BSA BB cups ($), Elixer 5 brakes (take offs)

pics are posted someplace in this thread


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Moike said:


> ... THE VP-BC63 WILL NOT WORK ON THE MONGOOSE DOLOMITE ... The spindle is waaaaaay too short...


I take it you didn't specify a spindle length when you ordered?

Have you contacted the LBS to ask if they can get the BC63 in a 189mm or 190mm spindle length?



Moike said:


> ... *Protip: *Don't take advice from anybody on this forum unless they have physically used the component in question. Otherwise you might just be lighting money on fire and wasting your time...


Seems that we're constantly reminding people:


Canoe said:


> ...Look at what others have done. Why they've done it and what they get in the end.
> ...
> To not waste time, money & effort, you're going to have to pay attention to details, and hope that others giving you information have also done so. Which is why you want to wait until you have the bike in hand before ordering anything that is not something you've done before or not something that has been documented (like you can see in the many pages of this thread). Doing something that is not documented, with the bike in hand you'll have the parts in hand and can reliably measure and get workable replacement components or parts...


I was impressed you were willing to invest in being the first to try it. Too bad you didn't specify the spindle length.



Moike said:


> ...So I'm stuck with the crap bottom bracket in the Dolomite, and at this point after a couple weeks of dicking with this epic pile of **** I'm pretty sure I'm just going to toss the whole thing in the trash and call it an expensive lesson.


Or, 
take your advice, turned around a little, and do what others have done,
(as already pointed out to you) like the new cups & bearings for the stock spindle,
ebay the BC-63 to a bike that fits, (go read the review on the BC-63 and see what bike it fits?)
or do craigslist it. I'm sure someone would be very happy with it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

oops said:


> ... posted about the BSA BB cups w/ seals...I went that route with Phil Wood grease....Huge difference..night and day from the OEM BB for only $10 and common tools...


The YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings are amazing aren't they. I'm trying them with a synthetic grease on two bikes, but not enough time on them yet to recommend the grease. I find it turns easier than two models of external sealed bearings I had on another frame.


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe said:


> I take it you didn't specify a spindle length when you ordered?
> 
> Have you contacted the LBS to ask if they can get the BC63 in a 189mm or 190mm spindle length?





Canoe said:


> I was impressed you were willing to invest in being the first to try it. Too bad you didn't specify the spindle length.


Show me on the VP website or the J&B Importers website where you can specify anything other than a 137.5mm spindle length for the VP-BC63.

I'll wait...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Moike said:


> Show me on the VP website or the J&B Importers website where you can specify anything other than a 137.5mm spindle length for the VP-BC63.
> 
> I'll wait...


There isn't. They aren't retail sites: they don't provide a comprehensive online listing to the public. 
vp-usa doesn't even list the BC-63 yet.
I don't even find a listing that specifies 137.5mm.

Look at the BC-73 - many more spindle widths than the token few they list.

Any word yet from the LBS regarding available widths?


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe said:


> There isn't. They aren't retail sites: they don't provide a comprehensive online listing to the public.
> vp-usa doesn't even list the BC-63 yet.
> I don't even find a listing that specifies 137.5mm.
> 
> ...


Given that the two burnouts in the LBS took ten minutes between them to figure out how to run a credit card on their cash register I won't be going back.

The lady at the LBS who actually ordered the part for me was nowhere to be found. And I could tell based on my initial experience with getting her to order the part... if what I wanted was not a clickable box on the J&B Importers website or clearly listed on VP/Origin website, the part does not exist in her universe.

I could waste my time trying to contact VP/Origin directly and seeing if I could get the 100mm shell with a custom spindle length. But honestly, it's a 250 dollar bike. A crap one at that. I'd rather toss the whole damn thing and start over with something that isn't a rolling heap out of the box.

My first clue should have been on teardown when I saw the wheel hub bearing races were dry and covered in paint overspray.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Moike said:


> So I'm stuck with the crap bottom bracket in the Dolomite, and at this point after a couple weeks of dicking with this epic pile of **** I'm pretty sure I'm just going to toss the whole thing in the trash and call it an expensive lesson.


...or you could send it to me instead. i'll pay shipping


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ...Any word yet from the LBS regarding available widths?


Bad news from VP Components.

As of 2014-08-15


VP-USA said:


> Currently: The BC-63 is available in 11 sizes between 137.5mm and 164mm. They skip every 2-3mm just like 68/73mm shell but *nothing even close to the 189mm you are looking for*.


So ebay your BC-63 and get the new cups. 
Or I'd imagine there's be a long list of people willing to take your project over.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Canoe said:


> Or I'd imagine there's be a long list of people willing to take your project over.


just sayin...


dirtdawg21892 said:


> send it to me instead. i'll pay shipping


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

dirtdawg21892 said:


> just sayin...


Like I told the other guy who sent me a PM, if you hurry you might catch the recycling truck that picked up the cans this morning before what's left of the Dolomite ends up in the shredder. :thumbsup:


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

haha hey I tried!


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Just cause the website doesn't state it doesn't mean they can with ease fab it up. 

Asking us far easier than just looking. It could be a simple place a part inside a part process at the factory yet the demand isn't there so it's not advertised publicly


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Moike said:


> Like I told the other guy who sent me a PM, if you hurry you might catch the recycling truck that picked up the cans this morning before what's left of the Dolomite ends up in the shredder. :thumbsup:


This is so stupid lol you're like a child. Can't get what you want so you throw a hissy fit and trash something so no one can enjoy because you are incompetent to do so yourself.

Why not donate the bike to someone who needs a bike. Or make some kids day and give him a cool bike. No need to be a prick about it because you can't get what you want.

End of day of the thing rolls from point a to point b then just ride it. I see plenty of beat up shitty cars on the road and they seem to get the job done.


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> This is so stupid lol you're like a child. Can't get what you want so you throw a hissy fit and trash something so no one can enjoy because you are incompetent to do so yourself.


Well, I don't know about that. Down in the garage there's a race car, a couple ground-up custom built motorcycles, and a crapload of well used tools and fabrication equipment. Oh, and a shelf full of trophies that are a testament to the fact that I might be pretty damn handy with those tools.

So... Sorry, no. Otherwise I wouldn't have just happen to have the correct tap to chase the crap threads in the laughably ovaled out bottom bracket tube with.



ImaBum said:


> Why not donate the bike to someone who needs a bike. Or make some kids day and give him a cool bike. No need to be a prick about it because you can't get what you want.


Because I'm not a jerkwad. Which is exactly what you'd have to be to donate that heap of crap to someone who didn't have the means or the extensive toolset required to keep it in good enough shape to get you a mile down the road. _"Here Kid, have a big pile of suck that's just going to fall apart on you. Have Fun!"_

I expected it to be cheap based on what I'd read before I ordered it. But what I pulled out of the box and started to work on was Harbor Freight levels of cheap crap. It even had the same rank smell.



ImaBum said:


> End of day of the thing rolls from point a to point b then just ride it. I see plenty of beat up shitty cars on the road and they seem to get the job done.


Well, I ordered up a Surly I liked... So, problem solved on my end. :thumbsup:

You have a good one, now.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

oh you're one of those guys..

You enjoy yourself now.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Moike said:


> Well, I don't know about that. Down in the garage there's a race car[/URL], a couple ground-up custom built motorcycles, and a crapload of well used tools and fabrication equipment. Oh, and a shelf full of trophies that are a testament to the fact that I might be pretty damn handy with those tools.
> So... Sorry, no. Otherwise I wouldn't have just happen to have the correct tap to chase the crap threads in the laughably ovaled out bottom bracket tube with...


wow
All that experience and you forgot to measure what size part you needed...


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Canoe said:


> wow
> All that experience and you forgot to measure what size part you needed...


Well you have to remember, given the size of his ego, his measuring stick would be too short to measure the parts on his bike. So like all else, he's gotta flaunt his short comings at the expense of being a baller.










..moral of the story - don't buy something you can't handle.

Funny part about this situation is that if it DID fit and worked..home boy here would toss that in his collection of material items with high praise and toss that out there in future reference to make himself seem much cooler than he really is.


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## tonygeo (Aug 20, 2013)

I understand his frustration and I've thrown bikes away myself instead of fooling with it. I do regret it now that I have more bike building skills under my belt. Just pulling the parts would of come in handy today.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Anywho, in other news.. I got my bike back yesterday from the LBS.

Had him install the new megarange & service the hubs. Needless to say, the new megarange seems "harder" to pedal on the normal range. But the megarange feels great. And he did a good job adjusting the system as it switches gears without a hitch.

The bike does roll better, too.

But this is all non-comparative. I havn't had much ride time due to a knee injury but the service updates do seem positive.

Edit: I installed the new 3" rise 30" wide handle bars before taking to the LBS on thursday. I hate leaning forward. I'm more the relaxed type

I'm still up in the air as to what bike(s) I'll be taking on the beach trip next week - oregon coast. I'll be at one of the beach houses for about 8 days so and which house determines what bike I take. One homes area is more developed with dedicated paved/wood plank bike paths around the city along with the beach. That one I'd take the Beast. The other home is in a gated community and just the beach off the back end of the home, which is more the Dolomite.

Until then, bike porn.
(Also looking at getting a gopro for the trip as well!! But my Note 3 might do well if I can find a good mount - if anyone has suggestions for using a phone/mount over a gopro)


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

ImaBum said:


> Anywho, in other news.. I got my bike back yesterday from the LBS.
> 
> Had him install the new megarange & service the hubs. Needless to say, the new megarange seems "harder" to pedal on the normal range. But the megarange feels great. And he did a good job adjusting the system as it switches gears without a hitch.
> 
> ...


Take the one with brakes and gears. (Dolomite)


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

@ ImaBum , where are you going to be in Oregon? I've had my Dolomite out on the coast, wet and dry sand, in the surf, dropped the air pressure and put on miles...was a fantastic time..


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Newport and Astoria. I'll also be spending a couple days in Seattle at Orca Island I think as well


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

ImaBum said:


> Newport and Astoria. I'll also be spending a couple days in Seattle at Orca Island I think as well


IF you end up in Newport and want to ride some msg me..Im only an hour away and would try to head over put some miles in on the beach....

Orca Island is nice, had a couple family vacations there...


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Oh sweet! Yeah if I stay there I will message you. That could be fun. When we stayed at the cabin near reedsport my girl and I found miles upon miles of walking done with ease. I could only imagine how many miles one could travel on bike. 

Any advice for orca island? Should I take my car or park my car in the city and hitch the ferry with just the bike and do the island with the bike?


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe, I got the 25t on the Dolomite arm. Found a friend with an arm puller and chain breaker. Pressed the old gear off it's sweage fit. Bolted the new ebay ten dollar 25t steel bmx gear to stock 36t for pattern to file about 16 notches in center hole of bmx gear to match 36t gear. Pressed sweaged fit new gear on dolomite arm. milled two flat spots on back side of arm and gear and drilled and tapped two 3/32nd holes, half in the arm and half in the gear and installed two button head screws with Loctite. Took out 3 1/2 links of chain to keep derailer in same position in 1st and 7th before sprocket change and had to file the teeth on bmx gear thinner cause chain was sticking/hanging up on the sprocket. Total cost $10. and 2 hours of my time and use of friends shop. I have pictures but still have to find out how to post. Got about 30 miles so far on new sprocket. can use all 7 speeds now, 4th thru 7th road, 1st thru 3rd trails. Use the mongoose for what it is non competition fat bike!  check out this clip about Mongoose bicycles 



 enjoy. Gary


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

*Dolomitey*

Here's the pics.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Thanks for posting this rockonx2. I want to do this to my mite.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

A 25T single front isn't a bad compromise, but you are limited at the top to matching the middle gear of a stock Dolo (~53 gear inches).

Still think a 22-32T front is the most useful for the Dolo. Hills or sand on the 22T. Normal riding on the 32T. Can be had from a 22-32-42T triple front. As here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-17.html#post11319377
A 34T megarange freewheel gets you the 34T granny, but if you follow the above link, then to it's link, you can see what a custom stack freewheel does: takes you down to the granny range, but with better steps across the range instead of it being a granny.

Below we show:
the stock Dolo
with a 25T front
with a triple front
with a triple front and a megarange freewheel with a 34T granny









edited: wrong label in the second example in the graph - should have been 25T


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

That's good advice Canoe.
I'll have to see if I can get the Trip. from my Jamis cross country to work with my mite.
It's a 22-32-42 bio pace.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

delete post?


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

_flatline_ said:


> That's good advice Canoe.
> I'll have to see if I can get the Trip. from my Jamis cross country to work with my mite.
> It's a 22-32-42 bio pace.


I found some Bio-pace cranks at Free Cycle Missoula but they all had the straighter crank arms and would hit the chainstays where they flare out to allow for that FAT tire... IF you can unbolt them from the spider arms and reattach to others - but I think those are different as well (I REALLY like Bio-pace cranks...)


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## rotaidalg (May 30, 2011)

OK, after I installed my Alivio from crank to make the Dolomite a 21-speed I find I'm using the following gear combinations the most: (24-34-42 3-ring crank w/13-15-17-19-21-24-34 Magarange Freewheel in back...) (this is from highest to lowest gear inches...) 42/13; 34/13 & 34/15; 24/13, 24/15, 24/17, 24/19, 24/21. (I seldom need to go down to the 24/24 & 24/34) With the way my chainline runs (way OUT from the tire) I'm "crosschaining" in anything lower than what I have listed above.
BTW, saw this advertised in Ebay - the Kawasaki (Sumo) fat-tire bike. Comes as a 21-speed w/magarange freewheel, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Sumo-Bicycle-26-Inch-Black/dp/B00LUFF6PI?tag=azonrcom-20 ($264)

and here...

Kawasaki Sumo 4.0 Fat Tire Bicycle | Overstock&#0153; Shopping - Great Deals on Kawasaki Bicycles ($530)

For that kind of money I'd see a better buy in the BikesDirect offerings(?) (real aluminum frames (the Kawasaki looks suspiciously like the "aluminum" (NOT!) Dolomite per Walmart specs... actually steel)

I did a total ride of 69 miles Monday to Hamilton & back (26 there, 17 in & around - popped out to Red Barn Bicycles (Custom Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes and Hand-made wheels | Red Barn Bicycles) to visit about the Bucksaw that I couldn't go see back in July...  (these were the guys who let me try a Salsa Mukluk back in 2011 - got me hooked!). Had a HORRIBLE headwind the last 7 miles from Stevensville back to my house - only averaged 5.6 MPH! (I can see myself using a fatbike as my only bike!)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rotaidalg said:


> ...BTW, saw this advertised in Ebay - the Kawasaki (Sumo) fat-tire bike. Comes as a 21-speed w/magarange freewheel, etc...
> For that kind of money I'd see a better buy in the BikesDirect offerings(?) (real aluminum frames (the Kawasaki looks suspiciously like the "aluminum" (NOT!) Dolomite per Walmart specs... actually steel)...


On one site, I saw it was claimed to be 47 lbs..
and
Sumo 4.0 Fat Tire Bicycle: Kids' Bikes & Riding Toys : Walmart.com

new thread http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/kawasaki-sumo-4-0-fat-tire-bicycle-927357.html#post11401876


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe, Thanks for the inch gear chart. I see how my sprocket change moved my speed and pedal effort. Thanks Gary


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> Canoe, Thanks for the inch gear chart. I see how my sprocket change moved my speed and pedal effort. Thanks Gary


You're welcome.
Where's it's really useful, is in determining where to go if your changes don't meet all your needs. 
With a stock dolo in hand, you get to see where the stock ~38 to ~76 gear inches fit into the scheme of effort vs. motion, for whatever terrain you have handy. As they're geared in "cruiser" range, it can be hard to imagine what extra gears on the easy end would provide you with, be it for flat, hills, Clydesdales, sand or snow. Now, with your 25T front with the stock Dolo rear, you can have a much better idea what changes in gearing can give you.

From the chart, you can see that your new gearing could be described as trading the three hardest gears of a stock Dolo for three easier gears. And a 22T front with the stock rear is roughly the same as that (bottom six with 25T are ~= to top six with 22T), only you trade the upper gear for one gear more on the easy end. And if the stock rear is changed for the 34T megarange, that one easier gear is now a big step to a granny gear, to bail you out (up?) on a hill, deeper snow, softer sand, etc..

With the 22T and the 32T front, on the 32T and the stock rear you get roughly 1 gear easier than stock while losing the hardest stock Dolo gear. Same for the megarange rear, except that easier gear is now a granny with no material difference to the easiest you have with your 25T front. (for some, a 32T front with the 34T megarange for a granny will cover exactly what they need for their terrain, style, etc.)

Compared to stock, your 25T front gains three easier while losing the three hardest.

Between the 22T & 32T, compared to stock, we get four easier gears and lose only the hardest gear. This is why I think the 22T-32T is an excellent mod to a Dolo.









If you got that 22T & 32T from a mtn triple (22-32-44T), and you've got legs and lungs that are a lot better than mine, then you can throw it on the 42T and go to town with ~77 and ~88 gear inches. Good luck if you're still using the stock tires & tubes... 

Or grind the teeth off of the 42T so it doesn't catch if you bash it into something hard.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

Canoe said:


> You're welcome.
> Where's it's really useful, is in determining where to go if your changes don't meet all your needs.
> With a stock dolo in hand, you get to see where the stock ~38 to ~76 gear inches fit into the scheme of effort vs. motion, for whatever terrain you have handy. As they're geared in "cruiser" range, it can be hard to imagine what extra gears on the easy end would provide you with, be it for flat, hills, Clydesdales, sand or snow. Now, with your 25T front with the stock Dolo rear, you can have a much better idea what changes in gearing can give you.
> 
> ...


Great info and it sounds like 22T & 32T with 44T ground down teeth bash guard would work well.

I'm love reading the Beast / Dolo posts but currently just cruising around on my blue Beast and enjoying every mile. No gearing mods for me, just upgraded handlebars, grips, seat, pedals, drilled out rims, FOR NOW.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

FatBikeNoob said:


> Great info and it sounds like 22T & 32T with 44T ground down teeth bash guard would work well.


yup
A 22-32-42T triple is a good choice, for the reasons shown. 
Watch out for grinding the teeth off of the 42T large ring. If you get better tires, as in 120 tpi tires that roll much easier, then you may suddenly have use of those 42T teeth for the addition gearing at ~77 and ~88 gear inches.


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Here is a pic of my dolo in the wild...Alaska that is, 10 miles down a trail. Definitely liked the megarange but still need to do some gearing changes on the front.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a Dolo from Wallyworld. I paid the extra $4.97 to have it by this Friday. just got the FedEx tracking info and they said by Thursday, tomorrow. I don't know, all the way from Bethlehem, PA to Dayton, OH. we'll see. I also noticed that FedEx says 105 pounds, are they kidding, is the Dolo really that heavy. Anyways, I was at Wallyworld last night looking for some red pedals, all they had were the white ones that change colors, I just might try my SPD's instead. I just hope I like this new fat bike, I did ride a Surly Pugs about a month ago, but don't want to lay down almost 2K for one of those yet. Stay tuned for pics and maybe video too. Oh by the way. Wallyworld did say I had 30 days to bring it back to the store if I didn't like it. We'll see!


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

Can someone tell me what balls to order for the rear wheel bearings?


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Guff said:


> Can someone tell me what balls to order for the rear wheel bearings?


Guff, The rear wheel doesn't have bearings. The rear wheel on theses have freewheel spockets, the freewheel spins, not the wheel. This video will show how to remove the freewheel and clean and re-lube it.


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Guff, The rear wheel doesn't have bearings. The rear wheel on theses have freewheel spockets, the freewheel spins, not the wheel. This video will show how to remove the freewheel and clean and re-lube it.


The rear hub in the wheel has bearings


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

floorguy said:


> The rear hub in the wheel has bearings


Isn't the bearings in the freewheel. Doesn't the rear wheel have a fixed shaft that the freewheel spins onto and tightens.


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

The freewheel threads onto the hub, the hub has bearings


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

floorguy said:


> The freewheel threads onto the hub, the hub has bearings


OK, I see. I was wrong, just watched this video.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a Dolo from Wallyworld. I paid the extra $4.97 to have it by this Friday. just got the FedEx tracking info and they said by Thursday, tomorrow. I don't know, all the way from Bethlehem, PA to Dayton, OH. we'll see. I also noticed that FedEx says 105 pounds, are they kidding, is the Dolo really that heavy. Anyways, I was at Wallyworld last night looking for some red pedals, all they had were the white ones that change colors, I just might try my SPD's instead. I just hope I like this new fat bike, I did ride a Surly Pugs about a month ago, but don't want to lay down almost 2K for one of those yet. Stay tuned for pics and maybe video too. Oh by the way. Wallyworld did say I had 30 days to bring it back to the store if I didn't like it. We'll see!


You have 30 days to return and 60 days to return the item once you notify them. May be different on your side of the country but I did an exchange with my first beast and it was a big headache. I actually need to call up my credit card company and have my bank remove the charge. Walmart charged me for the non returned bike yet admitted they did receive it. And they want you to use the Web to process your return. Then call them to reschedule a ups return pickup that you never even set up at the time you for your return. So you need to call them. Only they don't provide a phone number. So you must email them, wait two days then hourly they give you a phone number.

Long story short. Don't return or exchange.

FYI I'm a 28 yr old guy who is computer savvy and sharp. So it's not like I don't know how to use the Internet or phone to return a product


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Guff, The rear wheel doesn't have bearings. The rear wheel on theses have freewheel spockets, the freewheel spins, not the wheel. This video will show how to remove the freewheel and clean and re-lube it.


That's a reasonable video on servicing the freewheel. Only I would recommend you use a degreasing fluid, not WD40. WD40 can gum things up.

Now, there _are_ ball bearings inside the freewheel. But with most usage, you shouldn't need to open the freewheel up to service them: 'cause the freewheel is under load when it is being driven by the chain, with the freewheel locked and it is not spinning on its bearings. 
When the freewheel spins, it is not under load. Before you need to service the freewheel's ball bearings, you'd need to do a whole lot of freewheeling with a lot of dirt inside. 
The cleaning procedure in the video should be sufficient, well beyond the life of the bike.

If you're needing to replace the ball bearings in the hub, you should be checking to see if you've trashed: the cones on the axle, or the cups/seats in the hub.

Do take a look at Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

floorguy said:


> The freewheel threads onto the hub, the hub has bearings


Thanks. Can someone tell me what size balls to order for the hub?


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

I think the balls are 1/4" and 9 per side.
Someone correct me if I'm incorrect.
When I changed my freewheel to the megarange, I checked mine and added grease. 
But, I did not put a caliper on the balls. I believe that 1/4" is std.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Guff said:


> Can someone tell me what size balls to order for the hub?


Why? What's up?


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Road my dolomite on the beach. Kept it in the mega range the whole time. It was fun and quite nice. I learned that is not about going fast. You'll wear yourself out. Just go along at a slow pace and enjoy the water.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Some of you might like this:


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Got my Dolo today, man what a big ass disappointment, The derailleur hanger and derailleur bent inward like somebody stood on the box. And the right crank scratched too. Man I am so pissed right now.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Got my Dolo today, man what a big ass disappointment, The derailleur hanger and derailleur bent inward like somebody stood on the box. And the right crank scratched too. Man I am so pissed right now.


Did you take photos of the box before you opened it?
That may help in getting a new bike or replacement parts.

Also, as the box got hit that hard, was the spacer between the ends of the fork still in place?
If not, check to see that the front fork isn't bent too.


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## Moike (Aug 10, 2014)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Got my Dolo today, man what a big ass disappointment, The derailleur hanger and derailleur bent inward like somebody stood on the box. And the right crank scratched too. Man I am so pissed right now.


I see you're having full service mail-order-Dolomite experience.

Well, at least you have 30 days to send it back. Hopefully they cover shipping.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Canoe said:


> Did you take photos of the box before you opened it?
> That may help in getting a new bike or replacement parts.
> 
> Also, as the box got hit that hard, was the spacer between the ends of the fork still in place?
> If not, check to see that the front fork isn't bent too.


I just took a pic of the top of the box with the lids opened. The side of the box didn't look damaged at all, just one small hole. It did look much worse than that, but the derailleur just has to much damage to it. I called my local walmart store and they said just bring it back for a full refund. I really wanted this bike too. I'm not taking another chance on another one. I'm just going to save up and get a pugs at my local LBS.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

My local Walmart said I can bring it back to the store. That has to wait till tomorrow, have to get to work right now. Also, you can see in the 2nd picture where the derailleur is all twisted. I don't know, I may give the a 2nd chance and let them replace it. The bikes looks great. Oh by the way. before I took the bike out of the box, I had to loosen the front hub cones. The wheel wouldn't even spin, had plenty of grease in the bearings. Go figure. LOL


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## bowlofsalad (Aug 19, 2014)

I have very little experience riding on wide tires and so I am considering the idea of getting a dolomite. However, what I'd like to do is mount various width tires from 2 inches to 4 inches for comparison. Can anyone imagine a reason why mounting tires of various widths on this bike wouldn't work out on this mongoose dolomite frame? Thanks!


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

That's it, I'm done with Walmart. I just had it out with customer service about this Dolo. They will not replace the bike when I bring it back. They will only give me store credit or refund my bank card, which my take up to 3 weeks. Why can't they just order another Dolo at the store for me. I'm sorry sir you can only do that your self online. What the He'll lady. I feel sorry for the person at customer service when I return this POS in the morning. Rant over.


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## _flatline_ (Jan 24, 2012)

Never pass up the opportunity to bank a little good karma.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

Guys, I ordered a cheap junky bike, and got a cheap junky bike. I'm so pissed right now!


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

ultraspontane said:


> Guys, I ordered a cheap junky bike, and got a cheap junky bike. I'm so pissed right now!


Well buddy, some of us are on fixed incomes and have to still work to buy the toys that we want. I bet you buy all your toys with credit cards, don't you.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ultraspontane said:


> Guys, I ordered a cheap junky bike, and got a cheap junky bike. I'm so pissed right now!


He's got shipping damage. And an overtight front hub, altogether too common with these.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bowlofsalad said:


> ...I'd like to do is mount various width tires from 2 inches to 4 inches for comparison. ... why mounting tires of various widths on this bike wouldn't work out...?


Because the rims are 100mm wide.
I can get the 3.7" wide tires on that rim. I can't imagine narrower working.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> That's it, I'm done with Walmart. I just had it out with customer service about this Dolo. They will not replace the bike when I bring it back. They will only give me store credit or refund my bank card, which my take up to 3 weeks. Why can't they just order another Dolo at the store for me. I'm sorry sir you can only do that your self online. What the He'll lady. I feel sorry for the person at customer service when I return this POS in the morning. Rant over.


You bought it online, but you're able to return it to the store, and you're surprised it will take time to process? Contact online customer service and see what _they_ can do.

Now, is that _Store Credit_ or store credit by a _Walmart Money Card_ or _Walmart Gift Card_, which you can use right away to order another one online... but you're taking your chances with shipping again. And the front wheel hub is likely to be too tight again.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Canoe said:


> He's got shipping damage. And an overtight front hub, altogether too common with these.


I fail to understand why he typed that. I guess he thinks that a $2000 bike can't get shipping damage.

Like they say. Some people appear bright until you hear them talk.


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## bowlofsalad (Aug 19, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Because the rims are 100mm wide.
> I can get the 3.7" wide tires on that rim. I can't imagine narrower working.


I was planning on building various width wheels for each width. Meaning I would use a specific pair of wheels (hubs, spokes rims for front and rear) for something like a 2" wide pair of wheels, then another pair of wheels for 2.5", 3" and so on.

I imagine that so long as the hubs fit in the dropouts that I should have any problems using a 2" wide tire all the way up to the stock 4" tire on this dolomite. But maybe someone knows of some reason this would be a bad idea.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bowlofsalad said:


> I was planning on building various width wheels for each width. Meaning I would use a specific pair of wheels (hubs, spokes rims for front and rear) for something like a 2" wide pair of wheels, then another pair of wheels for 2.5", 3" and so on.
> I imagine that so long as the hubs fit in the dropouts that I should have any problems using a 2" wide tire all the way up to the stock 4" tire on this dolomite. But maybe someone knows of some reason this would be a bad idea.


Some people do run 29er wheels on their fat bike in the summer. Most keep the fat tires for the cushion, grip & protection from pinch flats - or for just how much fun they are to ride! 





Look through the other threads for 29er wheel ifo.

As to why do the various sizes: unless you really really really want to test for some reason, just go ride your bike!

Down the line, build a set of wheels with 29er rims, be it for fun/testing or you'd like something that rolls easier in the summer.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ... & protection from pinch flats ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That should read as: reduction in the chance/incidents of pinch flats.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

YES! Took the Dolo back to my local Walmart and they had another one somebody brought back. Only has a small scratch on the chain stay, I'll live with that. The front wheel spins good, but the back wheel may need a little adjustment on the bearing cones. I even got $25 back on the deal. I'm a happy old fart now.


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## bowlofsalad (Aug 19, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Some people do run 29er wheels on their fat bike in the summer. Most keep the fat tires for the cushion, grip & protection from pinch flats - or for just how much fun they are to ride!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have no interest in 29" tires, my goal is to compare tires of various air volumes. 
Allow me to rephrase my question in a way that might be simpler and more direct.

Is there any reason why a 26"x2.0" tire would not fit on this frame? I would use hubs that fit well between the drop outs, and a rim that would fit well with a 26'X2.0" tire. When I say, 'use hubs' I mean, during the wheel building process.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bowlofsalad said:


> I have no interest in 29" tires, my goal is to compare tires of various air volumes. ... Is there any reason why a 26"x2.0" tire would not fit on this frame? ...


I have no idea. Never considered it. 
The diameter of a fat bike tires is ~29" to ~30". 
You'd be comparing apples and oranges, not just air volume. 
With 26" tires, you'd be closer to the ground. As in, the bottom bracket and crank arm at the bottom will be closer to the ground. 
Disc brakes should be fine. 
Gearing will be different.

Go look at appropriate threads in this forum.

Some people have put foam noodles inside the fat tires to reduce air volume. Your results may vary.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Thought I'd share..

Took the Dolomite out onto the beach. What a blast.

I went easy and slow and had no issues. People freak out over the weight but I honestly had no issues. LBS services my hubs and installed my megarange for me so it rolled smooth. I only used the mega range when in soft sand. Otherwise I had it in 2nd or 3rd gear on the hard pack. It was nice riding around 

I'm going to have to get a bike rack tho. Putting the bike in the trunk of the car was a bit of a hassle. But I knew that going in..didn't want to spend $200 on a hitch for a single time use.


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## bowlofsalad (Aug 19, 2014)

Canoe said:


> I have no idea. Never considered it.
> The diameter of a fat bike tires is ~29" to ~30".
> You'd be comparing apples and oranges, not just air volume.
> With 26" tires, you'd be closer to the ground. As in, the bottom bracket and crank arm at the bottom will be closer to the ground.
> ...


Tires aren't measured by their outside diameter.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bowlofsalad said:


> Tires aren't measured by their outside diameter.


They're not fit to the rim by their outside diameter. They are measured by their outside diameter if you're trying to fit them into a fat bike frame. Welcome to the world of fatbikes. 
And if you're going smaller wheels on a fat bike frame, remember that you're riding on a frame that was designed with fat tire diameter/heights.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I considered a dolo, but after adding up the cost of all the upgrades I would do out of the box, the bikes direct Boris was looking better and better. The 2x9 was worth it alone. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

I just noticed this dent in the right crank arm of the Dolo I took back to Walmart yesterday. Oh, they did blame FedEx. First time FedEx damaged a bike for me. LOL


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> I considered a dolo, but after adding up the cost of all the upgrades I would do out of the box...


People really do need to add that up BEFORE they buy. Different people have different needs, and different budgets, you want to make sure that given your needs, wants & budget, you get the best value available to you.

I'm really enjoying my Beast and Dolo, and doing the inexpensive upgrades I chose to do, but man I really want a Ti.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

I got my Dolo adjusted to my liking, but. I can't get the seat post up high enough for full leg stretch on the down stroke. Anybody went with a longer seat post on here. I'm 6'1" and need a longer seat post.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I read a lot of people replacing it

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Canoe said:


> People really do need to add that up BEFORE they buy. Different people have different needs, and different budgets, you want to make sure that given your needs, wants & budget, you get the best value available to you.
> 
> I'm really enjoying my Beast and Dolo, and doing the inexpensive upgrades I chose to do, but man I really want a Ti.


I agree. I actually like riding my Beast more than the Dolo. End of the day.. I may one day pull the trigger on a "better" fat tire bike. And by one day I mean if I ever get enough eh to move to Oregon or Washington (Cali is a bit too expensive and populated to my taste)



MTB29erCurt said:


> I got my Dolo adjusted to my liking, but. I can't get the seat post up high enough for full leg stretch on the down stroke. Anybody went with a longer seat post on here. I'm 6'1" and need a longer seat post.


Geez.. I'm 6'4 and I can't get my seat post low enough!! (3" up because of the bike rack on the back).


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Well buddy, some of us are on fixed incomes and have to still work to buy the toys that we want. I bet you buy all your toys with credit cards, don't you.





MTB29erCurt said:


> I fail to understand why he typed that. I guess he thinks that a $2000 bike can't get shipping damage.
> 
> Like they say. Some people appear bright until you hear them talk.


I don't posses a single credit card, but it wouldn't matter one bit if I did. I'm just smart enough to know that spending $300 on a disposable Walmart bike probably isn't the best use of my money. Maybe that's part of the reason I have the bikes that I do. Not sure why you're expecting stellar support service from Walmart.

You get what you pay for, customer support included. So go ahead and speak on how "bright" people are while you blow your money on cheap department store crap, and then whine when it doesn't work out for you. Sounds like a plan.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

ultraspontane said:


> I don't posses a single credit card, but it wouldn't matter one bit if I did. I'm just smart enough to know that spending $300 on a disposable Walmart bike probably isn't the best use of my money. Maybe that's part of the reason I have the bikes that I do. Not sure why you're expecting stellar support service from Walmart.
> 
> You get what you pay for, customer support included. So go ahead and speak on how "bright" people are while you blow your money on cheap department store crap, and then whine when it doesn't work out for you. Sounds like a plan.


To be honest with you, this is the first department store bike I ever bought. I'd much rather pay $250 for a Fat Bike to see if I liked the style of riding, then to spend 2K and regret buying it. My non-department store bikes are my Surly Disk Trucker, and my Trek 29er. Those I didn't buy on the cheap to try out first. 
Furthermore, people like you should never criticize what others buy. 
That's why I said, "some people appear bright until you hear them talk".


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

ultraspontane said:


> I don't posses a single credit card, but it wouldn't matter one bit if I did. I'm just smart enough to know that spending $300 on a disposable Walmart bike probably isn't the best use of my money. Maybe that's part of the reason I have the bikes that I do. Not sure why you're expecting stellar support service from Walmart.
> 
> You get what you pay for, customer support included. So go ahead and speak on how "bright" people are while you blow your money on cheap department store crap, and then whine when it doesn't work out for you. Sounds like a plan.


I must be dumb as a stick. I bought a beast online and had to return it via mail through walmart. Well it was an exchange and they mailed me out a new one. I returned the old one and while they did admit they received it they still changed me and haven't refunded the money like they said.

Flip side I did not whine about it. Just started my experience so others have a heads up should they feel they want to exchange


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Wait so you paid for 2 beasts and have one? 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> Wait so you paid for 2 beasts and have one?
> 
> Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


Correct.

I'm in no worries though.. my bank puts the money back in my account before I hang up with them. I've just been too lazy/busy to call them up and have them remove the charge.

I will say though that walmarts return process via their website is horrible. The jacked up part is I couldn't return the first beast to a walmart near me. However the replacement unit they gave me I have the option to do so. Go figure..


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

anyone have a rear dolo wheel they want to sell? or know where to buy it separately (don't see it on walmart's site if they do)? I started with a beast just before the dolomite came out and figured I'd try to get a new hub from cycle us, but if someone has a compleat rear wheel I'd like to try and purchase it. I'm thinking I wouldn't have to guess on how to dish it and whatnot. rim can be striped, drilled or stock, as long as it's straight and functional. don't need the tire and tube either unless it's a deal breaker.

just send a pm if so. thanks.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

ImaBum said:


> Correct.
> 
> I'm in no worries though.. my bank puts the money back in my account before I hang up with them. I've just been too lazy/busy to call them up and have them remove the charge.
> 
> I will say though that walmarts return process via their website is horrible. The jacked up part is I couldn't return the first beast to a walmart near me. However the replacement unit they gave me I have the option to do so. Go figure..


That's weird.. I bought 2 tablets on black Friday and brought them to customer service for refund because the descriptions were a lie. They didn't sell them in the store, but took them back. It took the woman a half hour to figure out how to add it to the store inventory first though, but she did it.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Philphine said:


> I started with a beast... figured I'd try to get a new hub ... if someone has a complete rear wheel I'd like to try and purchase it. ...


 Compared to the Beast, the Dolo has wider hubs and BB spindle, for clearance for the chain getting to the stack of gears. If you're thinking of putting a Dolo rear wheel directly into your Beast, I'd suggest to do a through search of the internet to see if someone has already done that or similar, to see what's involved in making it fit, and then work. I assume you're after rear gears & disc brakes.

You might be able to buy a Dolo rear wheel from Pacific Cycles. And the spindle.

That said, with the Dolo hub & unknown spokes, you are likely better off buying an upgraded hub and spokes and rebuilding the wheel. Given the cost to buy & ship a wheel, an upgraded hub for your beast may be the same, more, or even less money. 
LBS usually don't gouge when building a wheel. Not all LBS are equal in doing a good wheel build. If you have a bike co-op near you, it can be a lot of fun to build a wheel.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

it's a freak bike for me. i'll make it work.

if the bottom bracket is wider then i think i'll weld in a bb from one of the schwinn choppers. i've been wondering if i should anyway just to find easier replacement parts from what i've been reading in the beast thread.

i figured i'd be better off if i could find a dolo rear wheel after doing some ebay searching. i didn't see a wheel, or even just a hub, that was less than buying a whole dolomite, so i'm hoping i can just grab a dolomite wheel for less. being a recreational build, high end parts won't really gain me anything.

i just joined a co-op a month or so back though, and they know wheel building is about my main reason for being there (along with finding some occassional treasure), so given the chance and lucking upon the parts, i may try it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Philphine said:


> it's a freak bike for me. i'll make it work.
> 
> if the bottom bracket is wider then i think i'll weld in a bb from one of the schwinn choppers.
> 
> being a recreational build, high end parts won't really gain me anything.


have fun

Maybe no to welding in a new bb. Unnecessary. You can put the YSB cup&bearings in for a great BB (although you do have to adjust it correctly). What you need is a wide enough spindle/axle. Although going for a wider BB would give you more support against bending an extended spindle. You need to get over to FAT BIKES | Rat Rod Bikes, and their other forums on how-to and the like.

You don't need high end parts. But once you get above dept. store quality hubs, they are an order of magnitude up, or more, for providing a smooth ride, strength and longevity. Are you doing this for a lark, or do you intend to enjoy the bike for some years.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

duly noted.

i'm hoping to buy a dolomite rear wheel. if someone has one for sale or a sourse please let me know. thanks.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

To all you Mongoose Dolomite owners. There's a Facebook page where you'll get answers to your questions a lot faster than you will on here. Also you won't be harassed by other members for buying a Mongoose Dolomite.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Well, since my Dolomite was a return after taking my new Dolomite back to my local Walmart, I decided to take it back too. Whom ever own the one I took back must of did an endo on it. The handlebars were bent downward on the right side by about 1/4 of an inch. The rear wheel would only spin about 4 or 5 times when I had the bike up side down working on it, I know maybe a tight bearing, but still. I just decided Fat Bikes just wasn't for me. I'm gonna stick with my Trek 29er and my Surly Disc Trucker. Good luck and God Speed to the rest of you with your Dolomite's.


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## Sir Real (Sep 8, 2014)

double post


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## Sir Real (Sep 8, 2014)

ImaBum,

Thanks for posting your pictures. I like the mods you've made to your Dolo. What kind of rack is that? Could you post a shopping link? 

Thank you in advance.

Sir Real


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Well, since my Dolomite was a return after taking my new Dolomite back to my local Walmart, I decided to take it back too. Whom ever own the one I took back must of did an endo on it. The handlebars were bent downward on the right side by about 1/4 of an inch. The rear wheel would only spin about 4 or 5 times when I had the bike up side down working on it, I know maybe a tight bearing, but still. *I just decided Fat Bikes just wasn't for me.* I'm gonna stick with my Trek 29er and my Surly Disc Trucker. Good luck and God Speed to the rest of you with your Dolomite's.


Your jumping the gun if this is based wholly on a $225 Walmart bike.

Just about everyone in this thread and the Mongoose facebook page says it needs a little love, grease and bearing adjustments..re-adjust the brakes and you can run it...upgrade it if you choose.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Sir Real said:


> ImaBum,
> 
> Thanks for posting your pictures. I like the mods you've made to your Dolo. What kind of rack is that? Could you post a shopping link?
> 
> ...


Thank you, Sir!

The rack.. $14 at your local walmart 

It's okay.. I like it a lot. Just wish the bolts that tighten around the seat post were black. Otherwise very solid!!

Just make sure it comes with the bunjie cord!


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## Sir Real (Sep 8, 2014)

*WallyWorld?!*



ImaBum said:


> Thank you, Sir!
> 
> The rack.. $14 at your local walmart
> 
> ...


A trip to WallyWorld?!

I'm so f'ing IN! :thumbsup:

Thanks.


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## HydroManEd (Aug 15, 2014)

*Lube all bearings tune bike*

Upgraded my dolomite gears, DER , chain , tires, inner tube, handle bars , pedals , stem, and seat.I had to re lube all bearings and tighten down bb a little after 24 miles plus adjustments , so far I have total in upgrades with bike is still under 450.00.total miles 300 plus and rides very nice.


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

*The Tank*

Showing off my project. I just got her back together.
Upgrades include:
MegaRange 14t freewheel
Avid BB7 dual disc brakes
YST sealed BB bearings
Vee Rubber Speedster tires
Lightweight tubes
Shimano rapid fire shifter

I stripped the paint from the frame and powdercoat from the wheels using paint remover. Sprayed both. Dropped 11 lbs in the process. She rides great.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Lurked forever and finally bought one yesterday. Should come in next week and I plan on taking it apart, greasing, and properly assembling it next week. 6'5" so I'm getting a $10 shim to use one of my seatposts. Definately swapping to a 32T or smaller front crankset. Toss up if I want to get some sort of BMX bars or just live with the really aggressive handlebar stance. Time will tell and there's a decent size bike parts swap meet next weekend near me. Assemble & ride on Friday, swap a couple cheap parts on Saturday.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

My friend is 6'4 and sat on one out of curiosity.. Ok, we rode it around the store trying to wheelie... Anyways, he barely fit on it. That's going to be one long seat post. At 5'6 most one size fits all bikes fit me and the dolo did fit.

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

stock components definately won't fit me. The measurements others have posted in the long ago time (page 2) give it a wheelbase about 3/4" shy of my 21" 29er. worst case, I ride it for a bit and sell it for $200. If I like, justifies getting a more expensive one with proper fit. If I don't like it, out less than hundred in comparison to the $500+ I'd be out with an expensive one.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Seen this before. Lots. 


watts888 said:


> stock components definately won't fit me. ... worst case, I ride it for a bit and sell it for $200. If I like, justifies getting a more expensive one with proper fit. If I don't like it, out less than hundred in comparison to the $500+ I'd be out with an expensive one.


Problem is, will your dislike be to:
- not liking fat bikes, or
- you're turned off of fat bikes because the bike didn't fit, or
- you're turned off of fat bikes because this bike is below the quality that gives you the ride you like.

One recommendation that turns up again and again, is to get a used "real" fat bike - one that FITS you - at a good savings over new. If you don't like it, you should be able to sell it and get most if not all of your money back. If you like it, ride it. But watch out: a surprisingly high number of fat bike riders find they like it so much they don't use their other bikes much, if at all. Some liquidate everything and put some serious money into a serious fat bike.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I'm in that category.. I'm selling another mtb to fund my bluto cause my gf would think I'm crazy for buying a 600 dollar fork. 

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Canoe said:


> One recommendation that turns up again and again, is to get a used "real" fat bike - one that FITS you - at a good savings over new.


I probably would have, but after 3 months of searching, nothing went below the $1200 mark for used. Can't justify that. Probably because everybody who gets one is keeping it, and those that don't keep em are crazy nut jobs who can't figure out how much a bike is worth. Same people who think they can sell used used cyclocross tires for $120 ea, but they're brand new for $40.

Thought about the bikesdirect ones, but I just like the rim width of the dolo better. If you're going to go fat, go real fat.


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## fat_tires_are_fun (May 24, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Seen this before. Lots.
> 
> Problem is, will your dislike be to:
> - not liking fat bikes, or
> ...


I agree with this. Don't make the mistake of thinking the idea of fat biking is so splendid that it will be enjoyable on any bike. The Dolo is a great option for people whom it fits and want to go cheap.
If it does not fit, it surely won't be fun for long and it is a waste. 
Also, I have seen plenty of used Pugs selling below a grand. 
Do yourself a favor and buy a bike that fits.


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## ridebikeme (Nov 26, 2010)

I agree with you FAT_TIRES_ARE_FUN! I've seen so many folks that have bought 'cheap' bikes, put lots of money into them...and then decide that it isn't for them. My question is " how do you know?" Save your money and time, and look for a good quality bike that is used... that way at least you'll be able to make an informed decision on whether this is something that you'll enjoy.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I dunno.. 600 for the Boris x5 shipped.. Or 500 for the gravity one... Kinda hard to look at the dolo when it's 250 and needs another 100 in tires, 100 for brakes, 50 for stem and bars, 100 for a crank, 200 for shifter cassette hub and derailleur, and it only comes in one size. I was looking at the dolo cause I didn't mind putting the work into something but it just didn't justify the expense. 

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## ridebikeme (Nov 26, 2010)

Glad to hear that you are considering your options! One size bike is liking telling us that we all wear the same size shoes... no matter what we do, the bottom line is that they don't fit. You can't go wrong with good quality...and something that fits.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

Get your exact measurements or size you like and then post a Fat Bike Wanted on this used Facebook Fat Bike Trader group:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/fatbiketrader/

Like this decent deal below:

For Sale.
Surly Pugsley, size LARGE. Excellent condition!
XT, SRAM, Ritchey, Fatback, Truvative components.

$1100. FREE shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 states. 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204842600566059&set=gm.844494538917821&type=1&theater


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I’m just curious..

How does a Dolomite compare to a more expensive bike? I mean - how much of a noticeable difference is there?

I don’t know jack about bikes. Other than stuff moves and it moves me based on the effort I put in. When it comes to sizes, I didn’t know that one could order “different” sizes. 

Outside of sizes, does it come to just easier servicing of parts?? 

For example, hubs. 

Lets say you have brand new hubs from X company and from Y company.

X is stupid cheap
Y is stupid expensive >$500

They have a round-a-bout that holds steel balls that rotate. You apply grease needed to operate and...... do both work the same? One easier than the other to grease? One last longer than the other because??

I don’t mean to be ignorant. I’m just curious as to how a simple product like a bike could have such higher costs to purchase - outside of general labor to make special frames out of say carbon fiber vs steel.

I think my Dolomite is fantastic. But I’m curious to see how it would compare to a $1,000 bike (about $775 more than what I paid). Would I realllllllly get $775 better bike? Or easier to maintain bike? Or better parts? If so, what parts are better. I assume not the nuts - a nut is a nut. If it can handle 50# of pressure I’m not sure how a super nut could do much better.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> ... how much of a noticeable difference is there? ... I don't know jack about bikes. ... I didn't know that one could order "different" sizes.
> 
> One last longer than the other because??
> 
> ...


Your prior posts had already made your above comments & questions abundantly clear. And your current questions underline that. But it's good that you're starting to ask.

There's a lot of information about bikes & their parts that you haven't got yet. Without that information, you'll continue to be in the dark and a lot of things won't make sense, including the comments from the experienced riders of "real" fat bikes that drop into this thread from time to time to _try_ to offer us advice. There is way too much to cover to be able to cover it here. You're going to have to go do a lot of reading.

I'm sure you'd understand the difference in quality and performance between a $ car a $$$ car and a $$$$$$$ car. Same with cameras. Same for violins. Well surprise, same for bikes.

Better quality parts (and design!) get you longer lasting (wear, seals), reliability (it can get you there, _and_ get you back), easier to use, more fun to use,

Start looking at some of the places a quality bike can get you to - and get you back because it didn't break! http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/daily-fatbike-pic-thread-646442-265.html Look at the details of the bikes they're riding (and that's not a how-to thread but a where-I-went thread - respect that (and you've posted your same photos enough around the forum that they don't need to see them again there).

You can also look at some of the other forums here at MTBR for an idea on how much goes on with regard to the various components, frames, etc..

For your info there are different types and grades of steel, etc.. The quality, and qualities, of the material, along with design, and much research & development (and that costs), and the machining combine to provide bearings and other components that will have different quality and qualities. Better, well, costs more.

How much better? You have to go ride one. And it doesn't have to be a fat bike. Just a better quality bike to get an idea of what better parts are like to ride. And a correctly sized bike too.

One thing you can start to do is OBSERVE what parts people are buying. Lurk there, go to the parts sellers' sites and read up on the different parts people are buying (materials, design, etc.). (It's not a newbie's getting started nor engineering thread, so don't annoy them with crap like that.)
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/your-latest-fatbike-related-purchase-pics-required-750452-91.html

If you want to know more, go read at Sheldon Brown-Bicycle Technical Information and at Park Tools in their how-to section. In fact. *Thinking about it, start at Sheldon Brown's site*.

It's not about the nuts. Although with some of the posts I see here, I'm not too sure some days.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

What do you get when you pay more money? Well, better materials, designs, and tolerances. Take hubs for an example. A cheap hub uses cheap parts. Axles bend/break, bearing races deteriorate.. An expensive hub has sealed bearing. Not only easier to replace, but when the bearing and race go bad, you don't have to throw the hub out. Spokes.. Cheap spokes break, aren't consistently tensioned.. And this all has to do with quality and manufacturing tolerances.

Derailleur.. Well, same thing. They work better, last longer, are made of better materials, have better designs such as shadow and clutch, and generally they work. A cheap derailleur will need constant tuning, and will not work well under pressure or hard use. And they are more prone to breaking. Even something as simple as a handlebar stem. A cheap one can expand, and even break. I've seen both happen. They are made of softer material and will need to be watched. Even the screws on cheap stems are softer metal and will break or strip.

What that 775 dollars gets you is a design that had been researched not for a price point, but for quality. The mongoose is below entry-level in every way. From its brick tires to its starnut, everything on it was chosen to meet a specific profit margin. I thought about getting one but it would need way too much money invested to bring it to a point where I could ride a trail with it. 

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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... If you're going to go fat, go real fat.


Really? For what terrain at what time of the year for what type of riding you do?

Fat refers to the tire. Different tires, and different uses of a specific tire, require different rim widths. Do you want the tire to be round and dig in, or flat an float, or flatish to have more surface to surface contact for grip? (to simplify it) And it's a lot more complicated than that, and you have to take in account the tread/lugs and inflation. Go read in the other threads about how people are choosing such things. 100mm may not be the optimum rim width for your riding.

I've got 100mm rims and 47mm rims. Most people are more sane and have one set in the middle somewhere.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> What do you get when you pay more money? Well, better materials, designs, and tolerances. ... Not only easier to replace, but when the ___ go bad, you don't have to throw the ___ out. Spokes.. ... And this all has to do with quality and manufacturing tolerances.
> 
> The mongoose is below entry-level in every way. From its brick tires to its starnut, everything on it was chosen to meet a specific profit margin....
> would need way too much money invested to bring it to a point where I could ride a trail with it.


I think your phrase "below entry-level" sums up how the Dolo compares to what I call a "real" fat bike. A Dolo gets you a fat bike (fat tire), and while _most_ Dolos work, they can't do the work that you can expect from an entry level fat bike - "where I could ride a trail with it".

How far a Dolo, or an entry-level fat bike, would need to be upgraded (if at all - or if the part you need to upgrade can be upgraded...) depends on what someone wants the bike for, as in, riding style, bike paths vs. trails, time of year, etc..

I would change your phrase to "everything on it was chosen to meet a specific" 'price point'.

Some of us can't afford a "real"/entry-level fat bike, nor a used one, so a Dolo is pretty much the only choice.

And make no mistake, I love riding my Dolo. But for those with a few more bucks, do make sure you do the math of how "much money invested to bring it to a point where I could" do what you want the bike to do. You could end up in the range of the entry-level fat bikes, where that kind of money has better value in an entry-level or an even higher quality used bike.

And for those of us who like to see how much you can do for the least amount of money? Go for it.

p.s.
on the spokes, although this takes away from your message (which does need to be understood), my Dolo came with properly tensioned spokes that were properly set. Too soon to tell on the quality and longevity.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Canoe & ou2mame,

Thank you guys for the reads. From what I gathered -bikes are like vehicles. $$ cars vs $$$$$ cars vs $$$$$$$ cars. They are all made of metal & plastic. But the features & build quality, design time, engineering and yada yada all up to X price point. 

While I’m not against a $1,000 fat tire bike, it’s just hard for me to justify the cost based on my specific use. But I can appreciate a “better” bike. I’m just more so curious as to how the price can be so drastic for such a simple product. 

I do click the vendor links on this forum and check out their upgrade products and I must say I’m quite impressed with what one could buy for their bikes for ease of use. 

I hope one day I can be in better shape to actually get a bike worthy enough to take into the mountains and roam around in. And to be fair, I may get to that point one day (knee injury). I’m looking at vacation property in remote forests in my area to setup a small 500sqft cabin which would provide ample opportunity to ride a fat tire bike in summer/fall and with a dashing of snow on the ground (10k elevation) before winter hits!


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

It's hard to compare bikes to cars because everyone buys a car for the same purpose.. To commute. But we buy bikes to abuse. Imagine a bunch of companies that only sold jeeps. Upgraded to different levels and at different prices. They all look kind of the same, but they all are built for different uses. You've got lifts, tires, transmissions, locked rears... And then there's the dolo. It's a jeep shell, with daewoo parts inside. So you buy it because you can't afford the jeep with the jeep parts. All the daewoo parts are running the bike from the drivetrain to the tires. You're never going know what a jeep feels like of you only drive a daewoo. And if you bring it into the trails it'll kill you lol

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## MrBB (Apr 16, 2014)

As far as the Dolomite frame; has anyone had any problems with it breaking?


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## HankSC (Sep 15, 2014)

*Just finished my build...*

Just finished my build today. Thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread - I've gotten a lot of good information and ideas.

I went with more of a beach cruiser build and added electric power to the front wheel.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

That's a bad ass shifter! How is the powered front wheel in the sand? Can you go into deeper sand that you wouldn't be able to pedal in with it? I was thinking to power my front wheel for the snow I thought it would be cool to have 2wd

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## HankSC (Sep 15, 2014)

Thanks! It has been a fun project. It has not seen much time in the sand. I'm sure the electric power would help in the sand, but I don't know that it would hold up really well to the salt spray.



ou2mame said:


> That's a bad ass shifter! How is the powered front wheel in the sand? Can you go into deeper sand that you wouldn't be able to pedal in with it? I was thinking to power my front wheel for the snow I thought it would be cool to have 2wd


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Has anybody put on an 8-speed freewheel? Clearance issues at the dropouts/chainstay?


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

watts888 said:


> Has anybody put on an 8-speed freewheel? Clearance issues at the dropouts/chainstay?


It's been talked about a bit on the Facebook page and it sounds like its a pretty tight fit.


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## BATRG3 (Dec 11, 2012)

I just bought a Dolomite for the following reasons:
I wanted a fat bike, and had ideas about what I wanted. But as much as I wanted to pull the trigger on a Sturgis Bullit with Bluto, I had some hesitation. Partly not sure I wanted to spend that much on a fork on a cheap bike. Partly because I wasn't sure whether this would be a fat bike that replaces other MTBs, or if this would be a niche bike. So basically I spent $250 + upgrades to get a season or so of experience to decide whether to budget $600, $1200, or $2400, on a fat bike, or decide that this was enough. I have enough tech background to separate the variables, between q-factor, tire squish, tread style, component quality, etc.

At 5'11", I needed to replace the seatpost immediately, as the stock one isn't long enough. The cockpit seems long even though it measures shorter than my XC hardtail. I put a megarange freewheel on it at the same time.

My biggest problem with it is the q-factor. It seems to me that this Q is larger than just about anything else. Am I correct? It seems that the Dolomite has a Q around 245mm, while most 26x4.5 are around 215, 26x4 around 200, and standard 3x MTB around 175. I find it harder to put power into the pedals, and I find myself sore in new ways after riding the Dolomite. And then there's pedal strikes too. But this has been a very helpful data point. Now that I've compared 150mm G on a road bike, 180 on heavy touring, and 245 on fat goose, I have a much better idea of what's ideal for me.

I'm also finding that on MTB trails, the >100mm rim and tire combo, while not being the worst, is still a little much. There are narrow or angled surfaces where I kept wishing for a narrower rim and tire. I'm sure I would love a 26x5 on snow, but given that my 29x2.4" was only so bad, I'm thinking a 26x4 on 70-80mm rims, or even the upcoming 27.5x3.25, each with minimum q-factor, will really be ok.

Honestly, I could live with the tires, given their benefits, but the Q is just too much. Those two go very badly together, and the gearing range is the icing on the cake of those shortcomings. The long chainstays are another wet blanket, robbing me of traction when I need it.

Armed with this info, I now know that my ideal fat bike is probably an On-One, and probably not a QBP, and may or may not be a BD. And the difference in price is far more than the Fat-Goose. Which still has its strong points.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

put an 1/8 washer between the axle nut and the drop out. or if i had known i would have put it under the axle nut while changing freewheels and greasing the bearings.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

kidd said:


> put an 1/8 washer between the axle nut and the drop out. or if i had known i would have put it under the axle nut while changing freewheels and greasing the bearings.


I thought about this, just didn't know how much free space the rear dropouts allowed against the hubs and how much cross travel the rear derailure had (although that would probably get swapped out too). With a steel frame, they should have plenty of "wiggle room" to play with. Once I get the cockpit set up and a feel for the stock bike's handling, probably have to do some experimentation.


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

I've read that the Dolo uses a 189mm width spindle in the BB. Is it symmetrically located or offset? ..and by how much? Pictures would be great! I am putting together a super trick run of upgraded BB's and would like to offer them for the Dolo as well. 

Thanks for the info in advance!!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

chopsmitty said:


> I've read that the Dolo uses a 189mm width spindle in the BB. Is it symmetrically located or offset? ..and by how much? Pictures would be great! I am putting together a super trick run of upgraded BB's and would like to offer them for the Dolo as well.
> Thanks for the info in advance!!


I doubt anyone happens to have one apart. 
Is on the bike good enough? I can pull the arms easy enough (friend has the puller) and measure with a caliper. 
If necessary, I could pull my spindle out and place a steel rule beside it on axis. If I shoot from far enough back, you should be able to read what you want off the rule. But if you can show me what points you want measured, I have calipers. Should be able to get to it this weekend.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Mine should show up tonight and I could probably get the measurements you need tomorrow (it's part greasing/swapping time). I've been looking around, and it appears VP's 100mm square taper bottom bracket is slowly trickling out. I found it on their website under the origin8 bottom brackets, and a reference to the importer. Checked the J&B importer's website, and they don't have any in the states, but at least it's in the system.

I'm pretty sure the 187mm is from the furtherest ends of the bolts that the dolomite's crankset axle uses instead of the shorter length measurement that most square taper bottom brackets use with a bolt hole drilled into the axle instead of a bolt protruding from the axle. I think this is the reason that VP's square taper bottom bracket is listed much shorter at 100mm x 137mm, which may actually limit the aftermarket cranksets that'll work with this. I'll take all measurements I can think of though.


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

No need to pull the spindle, just need fairly accurate measurements from the end of the spindle (not the threaded stud, but where the sq. taper starts) to the B.B. shell edge. Something within 1 or 2mm would be great! Also maybe the dimension at the smallest part of the sq. taper - across the flats and also just confirm the width of the B.B. shell. With this info I'll have all I need. The two offsets along with the shell width will give me the overall length of the spindle (minus the threaded portions which I don't care about). 

Thanks guys!!


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/xx1-crank-next-sl-spindle-922785.html
Anyone think the 190mm spindle and sram bb30 arms will work on the dolomite.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I want to get new tires for my beast. More of a street tire. And on the Dolomite I want to get more of a nicer tread pattern for trails/rain. I also need fenders.. rain season is coming here in Cali...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

FedEx has failed me. Showed up last night in Kansas city, final destination, Kansas city. Today, it's in Oklahoma city. Wtf


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I don't want to discourage you, but here's something that shipped July 12, 2011, delivered quite a while later. Caught in a loop between OH and CO. Wrong address going out the door mixed my address with another customer's in Denver. It was undeliverable and sent back the correct address in upper state NY changed in their computer, supposedly. Only when it got to OH, it read the original sticker and sent to back to CO. CO could read their correcting sticker and would send it back to OH. Eventually the vendor sent me another one, and we waited until it finally was delivered in NY, the box was decrepit (likely how it was discovered and intercepted), and it was shipped back to the vendor. It traveled over 20,000 miles?
I have a screen shot somewhere showing it actually delivered in NY, but can't find it.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I've had packages get misrouted but that's simply amazing.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

chopsmitty said:


> I've read that the Dolo uses a 189mm width spindle in the BB. Is it symmetrically located or offset? ..and by how much? Pictures would be great! I am putting together a super trick run of upgraded BB's and would like to offer them for the Dolo as well.
> 
> Thanks for the info in advance!!


took my apart when it came in. Actually had grease on the wheel and headset bearings, but that bottom bracket was dry, severely overtorqued, and had metal shavings in it. Not the best picture, but It should suffice. I was surprised that the actual length was about 187mm from tapered end to tapered end. After seeing this, i don't know if the VP 100mm bottom bracket would work.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

Did you get the narrower chainstay frame?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I got the one Walmart sent. Are there different dolomite versions?


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

That's why the guy on facebook was able to put the race face turbine crank on his. Some are 3/4 inch narrower.


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Come on guys... See post #678. First guy to message me the info I need will get paid a new bottom bracket assy. that he helped develop!!!


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

chopsmitty said:


> Come on guys... See post #678. First guy to message me the info I need will get paid a new bottom bracket assy. that he helped develop!!!


I'm not sure what you are trying to say here.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Pretty much everything is available from the picture I posted. Can't get the width of the square taper, but that should be the same as that used on any other square taper. On a side note, you might want to consider a slightly narrower one (maybe 175mm) because of the different chainline of standard mountain bike crankset vs. the one that comes on the dolo.

Based on the picture, spindle length = 188mm
no offset
length of tapered section 19mm
well established BB width = 100mm
width of bottom bracket retaining caps ~2mm on each side
width from bottom bracket to edge of square taper = (188-100-2-2)/2 = 42mm


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

watts888 said:


> Pretty much everything is available from the picture I posted. Can't get the width of the square taper, but that should be the same as that used on any other square taper. On a side note, you might want to consider a slightly narrower one (maybe 175mm) because of the different chainline of standard mountain bike crankset vs. the one that comes on the dolo.
> 
> Based on the picture, spindle length = 188mm
> no offset
> ...


Ok! Sounds good. Based on the picture, I would have no idea what the overall of the spindle length is (the angle makes it very difficult to see - and I'm trying to build something very precise)... Just looking for the offset and a confirmation on the BB shell width.

You got it, if you want it. I'll send out the first production piece to you. Just message me your address.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

if a free bottom bracket is on the line, I'll get you more data than you'll know what to do with. Plus, I'm swapping cranks tonight. That 36 tooth is just too much.


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

tomcat85 said:


> canoe, thanks for posting all these pics!


And your detailed review!
I am still not sure what Fatty I will buy, but it is fun to see and read all the options.


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

I run the Vee rubber Speedsters. They work well on street/hard packed trails.


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## Guff (May 12, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> I want to get new tires for my beast. More of a street tire. And on the Dolomite I want to get more of a nicer tread pattern for trails/rain. I also need fenders.. rain season is coming here in Cali...


I run the Vee rubber Speedsters. They work well on street/hard packed trails.


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

If anybody is interested in a sealed bottom bracket, see this:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

took more measurements for you, but they're at home on a piece of paper. I put some Shimano cranks (Alivio) on them, and the 64BCD chainring lines up exactly with the dolomites chainline. I put a $7 controltech 29T ring on it, and I'm liking it a lot. If a person was to use the 110BCD chainrings (like the 30T raceface narrow-wide chainring) you'd really want the crankset moved in 7.5mm in, and the axle spindle length to be 15mm shorter, so 174mm. Also, the chainstay clearance on my bike with the schimano cranks was 15mm. If you did go with a 174mm axle, you'd still get 7-8mm chainstay clearance on each side. Not much, but enough.

chopsmitty, are you able to set up your bottom bracket drilled and tapered instead of with the external bolts, or at least make the external bolts a litle bit longer? Also, see if you can use a standard thread count. Mongoose use a low quality metal 3/8" x 26TPI bolt/nut. It's a standard bike bolt normaly found on cheap kids bikes. I think we can do better.


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

So, the Beast spindle is what you'd want. For those who want EXACTLY the same as the stocker Dolo, I'll offer that too. 

The spindle will have a tapped hole - 8mm. Pretty sure I have it all covered...


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I was in Scheels and they had Dolo with bigger, offroad tires on it ans said they get them in that way? Anybody seen this version?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Winter is coming*

So fellas, its about to get cold here in Vermont and I wanna order a dolomite to mod this fall before the snow arrives. I have a 26'' for XC/single track. However for the mongoose, can anyone comment on how it holds up in the snow and what tires would be best, i wont really be using this thing on the street or sand and after 4+ hours of reading this thread and the one on BBB I dont have a definitive tire recommendation.

What I have found is that for 
$250 you get the bike
$10 you pick up great cup seals
$15 for megarange 
$15 shimano click shifter
$100 tires/tubes

Can achieve a really cool looking custom bike that can take mild trails and hopefully some snow.

So do people like the on-one tires best, or maybe the vee's for the mud/snow? Any help is much appreciated


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The dolomite just came out this spring, so few if any have ridden it in the snow. That being said, my buddy did some snow riding on his beast last winter and it was pretty good. Even with stock tires.

His beast has been upgraded to basically what a dolomite is.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

If you're buying the bike to immediately dump money into, you're better off going with a bikes direct bike cause it's gonna be the same amount of money and better. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I agree 100%!


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> If you're buying the bike to immediately dump money into, you're better off going with a bikes direct bike cause it's gonna be the same amount of money and better.
> 
> Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


either thats the dumbest thought process I've heard about buying a bike..

or how we purchase a vehicle is completely wrong.

Maybe people buy the dolomite so they can upgrade to parts they want..??
I highly doubt a bike from direct will be perfect and not require upgrades.So maybe only that situation would apply to folk who just want a more expensive bike that just fits their needs.

Just throwing that out there


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

My thing with throwing money into the dolo is that it only comes in one size, so I hope it fits perfect, and it needs just about everything but the frame replaced. I always do bars and stem when I buy a bike so I won't count that. But drivetrain is junk, wheels are too, plus the bb, crank, etc.. The dumbest thought process is thinking that you can upgrade the dolo cheaper than buying a decent bike in the long run. At that point, if you really want to spend the money, why not just buy a steel frame? 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

the list of upgrades that he is talking about are all things than the bikesdirect bike alread have. I'm all about the dolo, I thinks it's a great bike. But if you already are planning on spending $4-500 right away, the BD is a better way to spend the money. My opinion as a person who bought 2 beasts and changed every part on them.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I'm not shitting on anyone for buying a walmart bike.. I almost did the same thing. But when I wrote it all down on a piece of paper the purchase didn't make any sense because at best I'd end up with a frankengoose and at worst would literally be stripping it to the frame eventually. The 7 speed needs to go, because that mega is always annoying to ride with and you'll tire of it soon. You'll want a proper 9 speed for the 34t in the back. The front chainring needs a new crank to replace right? And obviously you want a n/w 32t or maybe even a 30 if you're climbing and planning on the snow.. Then there's the shifter, at least something halfway decent like an alivio or x5 setup depending on how you do it. All of a sudden you have something comparable to the lurch at the same amount of money with worse components. If steel isnt a deal breaker I'd get the 500 dollar gravity monster one they have. At least out of the box it's a solid setup and you can upgrade as you break instead of upgrading everything all at once. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I just bougt a dolo, and I have to agree with blown240's statement. I had some parts in a junk box that I've already swapped over. If I got new tires and paid wholesale price for the parts I've swapped, the cost of my bike would be higher than the BD Gravity Monster, and it still wouldn't have the right size frame, the wheelset would be the same cheap steel freewheel hub, and it'll still be an easily rusted frame for use in the winter. 

The main reason I got the dolo over the BD version was the 100mm rims. I figure in a couple years the cost of fat tires will go down a lot, and I'll get new tires then. Once set up, the stock gear shifter and brakes worked ok. I was getting clean shifts on the trails and I could lock up the back wheel. The only things I really had to change were the handlebars (aluminum handlebars are so much better than steel) and the crankset (36T is way too high for hills & trails, although they were fine for asphalt/road). I've been running low tire pressure so far, but I'll take it up to ~13-15psi and go for levee trail ride today to see how it goes. Stinking rain messing up the dirt trails.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Hearing that the stock tires are good in the snow, and knowing that I would be doing the cockpit over on either bike I still think the dolo would make more sense. 

If you can basically seal in the bb for $10, and people (after adjustment) dont mind the stock brakes, and some extra front/rear gears that might be lying around in my garage. It seems like the bike could be put together on the cheap, and after all you would have into it, that would be less than the price point of the stock gravity. There is no way I would leave the gravity untouched, I think I would still put another $100 at least into the gravity.

I thought that one of the best things the dolo had going for it was the rims were aluminum and light(unlike the rest of the bike).


Either way I have to figure on buying either bike plus parts (X2) one for me and one for the gf, just to see if we would like going out in the cold. We both have 26'' mountain bikes and she really only likes to stay on the flat trails, not really up for single track, would she benefit from the gravity?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

rims are aluminum, hubs are steel. Took a magnet to my dolo the other day. the aluminum parts were: stem, crankarms (oddly enough), and rims. Everything else was steel or plastic.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Just a heads up that winter biking is hard work. Flat trails in winter can be physically and technically harder than hilly singletrack in summer. If your gf doesn't like hilly singletrack in summer, she probably will like winter riding less.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

RYNOFREERIDE said:


> Just a heads up that winter biking is hard work. Flat trails in winter can be physically and technically harder than hilly singletrack in summer. If your gf doesn't like hilly singletrack in summer, she probably will like winter riding less.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Haha! That is what I'm fearing. I've never heard her swear so much unless she is riding uphill on her specialized. The quarries at Millstone have quite the elevation change and she is not a big fan of them. I was thinking we could start in some fields to get her into it.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

blown240 said:


> the list of upgrades that he is talking about are all things than the bikesdirect bike alread have. I'm all about the dolo, I thinks it's a great bike. But if you already are planning on spending $4-500 right away, the BD is a better way to spend the money. My opinion as a person who bought 2 beasts and changed every part on them.


This is true. I personally don't mind projects and "building up" something from the low end. Gives me something to do that's drawn out and thought through vs just handed to me.



ou2mame said:


> My thing with throwing money into the dolo is that it only comes in one size, so I hope it fits perfect, and it needs just about everything but the frame replaced. I always do bars and stem when I buy a bike so I won't count that. But drivetrain is junk, wheels are too, plus the bb, crank, etc.. *The dumbest thought process is thinking that you can upgrade the dolo cheaper than buying a decent bike in the long run.* At that point, if you really want to spend the money, why not just buy a steel frame?
> 
> Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


I agree completely. So it pretty much boils down to what the end user really needs/wants.

In car terms - it's like buying a base model car with a manual only to upgrade it to an auto and install a keyless entry system. Just spend the extra $2k right there and not go through the hassle of doing it yourself while still having a crappy platform to begin with.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> Hearing that the stock tires are good in the snow, ...
> I thought that one of the best things the dolo had going for it was the rims were aluminum and light(unlike the rest of the bike).


My first rides on the Dolo were in the snow. 
I would not describe the tires as "good in the snow". I would describe them as: they work in the snow.

For 100mm rims, they're not bad. As for their being light, big deal, the tires & tubes are grossly overweight (upgrade the tires & tubes to 3.7/3.8" 120 tpi and typically knock 3.8 lbs. off of each wheel). But they work.

The weight of the stock tires & tubes will limit your acceleration. *Much more important*, the thick unsupple nature of the stock tires and tubes rob energy from your pedalling input; this is worse in the snow. 120 tpi tires are both lighter and much much more supple, and a huge improvement in riding enjoyment.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/questions-about-mongoose-dolomite-919698.html#post11293280

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/weight-difference-surly-tires-927537.html#post11406460

A huge upgrade for a Dolo is to go for better tires. The better you can afford, the more you'll enjoy. If you're going trails, huge difference. If all you're be doing is crusing around town, and you don't care about the workout or going slower from having your energy robbed by the tires, no problem. If you haven't got the funds. Well, at least the stock tires work, so you at least get to play.

It's not a matter of which tire is good for a Dolo in snow, but which tires are good for the type of snow you'll be in, and on what kinds of terrain. Go to the main fat bike threads for a wide range of information of available tires.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

FYI, swapped over a 135mm axle (10mm diameter), cones, and lock nuts from a junk rear wheel to my dolo front wheel. So far, works great. Going for a trail ride tomorrow to see how it goes. Everything swapped over pretty much identical. Just make sure you get the thin lock nut on the right side. On mine, the thin lock nut was on the brake side. Dust shield were the same on my old and new cones, but the dust shield come off with a socket set on top and a light tap with a hammer. Swap em to the new cones.


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## HydroManEd (Aug 15, 2014)

I upgraded my Dolomite tires with ON ONE floaters and the ride and control on black top and gravel were 50 percent better so far over 350.00 in upgrades. My wife now wants a fat bike and I told here I give her mine and she loved that idea so did I .I have ordered the BD Motobecane 2015 Sturgis Bullet. I cant find any fat bike with these kind of prices with such quality parts.If I keep up with the upgrades on the DOLO ill hit the price of the STRUGIS bullet easy.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

HydroManEd said:


> ...If I keep up with the upgrades on the DOLO ill hit the price of the STRUGIS bullet easy.


Which is why we keep trying to tell people to do the math on their expected upgrades first. If you haven't got the bucks, the Dolo and a few key parts will do a lot. And I love my Beast and my Dolo, but if you're going to upgrade it into the low end of a "real" fat bike, you're better off spending that money on something that when stock is already in the low end of a "real " fat bike.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

Ok...I am looking at the Dolo and the BD ones. My main question is this...

For 250 with a solid Walmart return policy..why not get this? I bought a Diamondback Recoil FS bike from Sports Authority for 350 after savings, and have beat the crap out of the bike, had so much fun, and still is going strong after 3 years. Just as good as my friends $3000 Specialized FS bike. At the time, I debated some crazy FS bikes and honestly, would have shot myself if I did not get the "cheapo" Diamondback. 

So for 250, considering that I am not in any sort of competition, time trials, etc...will this serve the purpose of having fun? Do I really need to change all the components like everyone says?? I mean, I have not changed ONE thing on the Diamondback and have never needed to. Again, it is solid.

My only concern is the weight. Will it be completely unrideable uphill? I felt the weight of the Beast at Walmart, and it was pretty heavy. My DBack bike is heavy Im sure compared to a 3000 FS bike, but definitely rideable and a whole lot of fun like I said.

Should I pull the trigger? Thoughts?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Do it, Pull the trigger! Worst case you return it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

First off, if you want it to last, you're going to have to do a clean & lube, preferably before you ever ride it. It comes with wheels that are suited for cruising, and it comes geared for cruising, and the components are of a quality for, you guessed it, cruising. So for using it as a Fat Bike would normally be used (but NOT as robust, so be careful where you take it), you need to get the gearing into the Fat Bike range. The quickest and cheapest way is the 34T megarange rear freewheel. Then there's custom freewheel stacks so you have more useful choices. Then a double or tripple front, etc., manually switched for the terrain you're in, or add the front derailer. This can be done cheap, or you can quickly get into a whole lotta bucks. This has all been covered before, many times in this thread. 

Then there's the tires. Also for cuising, but you can get away with using them on a variety of terrain. But there are much better choices, particularly when you get into 120 tpi tires. Also much easier to pedal 120 tpi tires. 

Figure out the cost of the changes/upgrades you'll need to get a Dolo to do what you want it to do. Then compare to what you can get off-the-shelf, to make sure an upgraded Dolo is good value for what you want to do.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

If you think that a diamondback is just as good as a 3k specialized, you've got some learning to do.. The 250 dollar dolo could very well be that lesson. 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

ou2mame said:


> If you think that a diamondback is just as good as a 3k specialized, you've got some learning to do.. The 250 dollar dolo could very well be that lesson.
> 
> Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


well proof is in real life experience. And my DB goes on the same rough and rocky trails as my friends 3k bike. My bike stays pace and hits the same jumps. We are both 6 feet and weigh roughly the same. I'veridden his aand it is a little lighter so on paved trails may get a little more ahead, but honestly, for over 10 times more $, absolutely without a doubt in the world, no where near 10 times as better.

Again..3+ years riding the DB hard and shows no sign of age whatsoever. If the Dolomite is anywhere near this experience, it seems like a no brainer.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Sounds like you made your decision then.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

Unless riding in the snow actually requires a very specific (albeit) more expensive fat bike, then I can understand paying more. Because in the mountain bike world, in my vast experience with many real world bikes, you can go cheaper and still have a blast on a variety of terrain.
Is the stock Dolomite incapable of being ridden on trails in the snow? I saw a few YouTube videos of people riding just fine. 
I'm not trying to sell the Dolomite, I'm just saying if it can do the job then why spend 5 times more? Is it twice as heavy? Does it not move somewhat normal when you pedal or brake?


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

It's about 15 lbs heavier than a real fat bike, it doesn't have the gearing, tires, or drivetrain to handle snow. Adding up the replacement cost, you're at the level of a much better bike. Some people have put the mega range freewheel on it, but that just gives you one low gear, and street gear ratio for the rest. It'll pedal, but depending on your weight and skill it might not be fun at all.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

15 pounds more is a bit hefty. And it sounds like snow does require a completely different bike. Maybe the Dolomite was made for beach cruising. I've never snow biked so this is new to me. If it will not be a similar experience getting a cheaper mountain bike for summer terrain, then I may have to go with a more expensive FB. Or at least continue researching. Thanks.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

You said you were 6', fit is another issue. You will need a new longer seat post, but since the frame comes in one size you're not going to have a good fit. You'll need a longer stem too, but now you're upgrading a bike that doesn't fit you, which is a complete waste. If I've learned aborting in 20 years of riding, it's that fit matters more than component level most of the time. But that's when you're starting out at the minimum at least and the dolo isn't even that. You could try, but if you were to replace what really needs replacing you're going to add up the cost and realize that you could have made a better choice. The dolo is made to be a cheap cruiser. Everything on it is cheap. No thought went into function, just price point. That's not a good starting point for anything that's going to take abuse.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

When I bought my $300 FS Diamondback, it was the best bike decision I could have made. Like I said, rides the same trails and terrain than bikes 10 times as much do. Ride bard, not broken, no upgrades etc. All fun...for a lot less.

just want to make sure winter riding is a different story. Where spending a lot more is justified. A better bike is not a want, but need. Where the dolomite gets stuck in snow, can't go uphill, or simply breaks...where as the Bikes Direct bikes do not.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I posted the math I did previously in this thread, and came up with the cost of my bd Boris. I wouldn't try to ride it before doing those upgrades on much of anything technical. I haven't ridden a fat bike in the snow yet, but i did ride my mtb, so I assume drivetrain and everything else apply. You're looking at minimum 125 for tires, 150 for a crank, lace the back wheel with a freehub and go with a 9 speed 34t at least, maybe 10 with a 36t.cost depends on your wheel building skills, but why even use the rim at that point it's junk so might as well just buy a whole back wheel. That should be around 200 or 250 depending on how nice a wheel it is. Might even be cost beneficial to buy a wheelset depending. Then there's the derailleur, at least 50 bucks for something like a deore shadow, that won't get so jammed up with snow and over and under flex like an sis. Shifter, alivio minimum those are cheap only 20 bucks on ebay. Maybe you want front gears and another 50 for derailleur and shifter and cables. You can get a shifter set for like 30 or 35 on ebay. Brakes are important, the stock ones are probably not going to do a whole lot of anything. I'd do bb7s cause they're the easiest to adjust, so add another 100 or so. Plus the seat post and stem another 50. So anyways it's personal preference how you'd do it, but that's basically what i would do before dragging it into the snow. If you think that you could get away without doing anything to it thats up to you. But the way I ride and what I do, thats the bare minimum for it to meet my expectations.


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## fat_tires_are_fun (May 24, 2013)

lethalsvt said:


> When I bought my $300 FS Diamondback, it was the best bike decision I could have made. Like I said, rides the same trails and terrain than bikes 10 times as much do. Ride bard, not broken, no upgrades etc. All fun...for a lot less.
> 
> just want to make sure winter riding is a different story. Where spending a lot more is justified. A better bike is not a want, but need. Where the dolomite gets stuck in snow, can't go uphill, or simply breaks...where as the Bikes Direct bikes do not.


Spending a lot more and justifying it is a personal issue. You can buy this bike and give it a try, but if it doesnt fit, you have simply wasted money. If you are in to riding enough that you are on this forum, and you can afford an extra couple hundred, get a better bike.
Sounds like you are trying to talk yourself in to the fact that this bike is a good idea....at 6 feet tall (you), I can most certainly opine that it is not.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I'm 6'4 and have no issues with the dolomite or beast. 

I enjoy both very much. Have not had a chance to hit snow but I did go on the beach and it was a blast!!

..I'm also not trying to turn a geo metro into a sports car either. So I'm content with my minor mods


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Also when comparing the two, it looks like the BD bike comes stock with a 50mm wide rim while to Dolo has a 100mm, is this better for having the ability to get more grippy tires? Like the on-ones, I have heard good things about them in the snow, in the reviews section of the site. 


Looks like both bikes would need a set of winter tires for the snow, and that they come with more of an all season out of the box.


If the Dolo can also save 8-9lbs by swapping to the On-Ones and new tubes I think that makes it a more attractive option.This coming from a guy who will most likely only be able to drag his girlfriend out to ride in the snow for an hour or so at a time a few days per snowy months.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

first, a comparison of a $300 diamondback vs a $200 wallyworld full suspension. I'll assume the DB came with an acera or alevio derailure with an 8-speed trigger shifter. It also had a square taper cartridge bearing bottom bracket. Hubs and wheels were double-wall aluminum rims with a aluminum hub and decent quality quick release axle. These parts are built strong. They aren't as light, but they will handle the same beating as expensive bikes. These parts are about the same quality of parts as you'd get on the BD gravity monster, so you'll have an idea what's coming on that.

On the other hand, the $200 wally world mountain bike will have a 7-speed freehub gear cluster attached to a lower quality hub and rims. The derailure will be a tourney or lower quality. Not bad, but not as good as the one on your DB. The shifter would probably be non-branded low quality grip shift, and the handlebar would be steel instead of aluminum. This plus grip quality will make a huge difference on extended rides over 30 minutes. The quality of the wally world bike just won't be the same as the DB bike. However, if you are OK with that, willing to do frequent maintenance, and will spend about $50 for used bike parts, the wallyworld bike is acceptable. In general, the components will never match the quality of your DB though.

Now, comparing the dolo against the gravity monster. The dolo only comes in one size. I'm 6'5" and a 34" inseam, and with a 400mm seatpost (stock seatpost is only 300mm, so 4" shorter), I'm at the limit of minimum insertion level for the seat post. Only about 1" though, so I am pretty comfortable riding it. This is definately a good reason to get the BD monster. Also, the rims on the dolo are 100mm, which is really really fat. I figured if I was going to try a fat bike, I wanted it really fat. Comparing apples to apples, this would put the dolo against the lurch or sturgis, where the price of the dolo really comes out as huge. I figured I'll wait for another year for fatbike tires to come down a bit, and get some replacements then. Also, with use, the brakes on the dolo are starting to show their limitations. After only about 5 hours of medium to hard trail time, the brake calipers are already starting to wear some. The pads are shifting around a lot more inside the calipers.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> ...Some people have put the mega range freewheel on it, but that just gives you one low gear, and street gear ratio for the rest. ...


Correct. Which is why the 34T megarange is just the first of the upgrades if you're going on the cheap. Going to a MTN triple front so you can manually choose between 22T and 32T (one for flat/mild-hill, the other for big-hilly/sand/snow), to drive the megarange, so you can drive through the snow or sand, or up a hill. And then a custom stack of the megarange so instead of it providing just a granny gear with a big space beside it, the gears are spaced out to provide more usable selections. Check previous posts, complete with gear inches comparasion charts between stock, and what the various changes in freewheel and chainring bring you.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

lethalsvt said:


> just want to make sure winter riding is a different story. Where spending a lot more is justified. A better bike is not a want, but need. Where the dolomite gets stuck in snow, can't go uphill, or simply breaks...where as the Bikes Direct bikes do not.


Upgrading a Dolo to ride in the sand or snow can be done. It can be done cheap (as discussed in many posts in this thread) or it can be done with more expensive parts (which are actually inexpensive parts, as far as the range of Fat Bike parts go). If you're going to need, or want, the more expensive parts, or you'll be paying someone to do the cheap upgrades, THAT's when you have to be careful that a better value for your dollars is other than a Dolo.

A Dolo will be heavier, so with some snow or sand that's an issue, so you can go carbon fibre instead.
As to robustness of frame & components, where do you intend to go? Back country: it may get you there but can you trust it to bring you back? Some places a long walk would be fine, other places you would be at risk. If you're a rider experienced on those types of trails in those conditions, maybe you have the skill set to ride a Dolo there while minimizing the stress on the frame & components, but it could be a ***** to rely upon that in circumstances were your life could be on the line.

And no, the Dolo is not a "sand cruiser", but a street or urban/flat bike trailer cruiser. You can have issues with soft sand as you have with different snow conditions. A few types of sand, same as for snow, you can ride it stock if it's flat.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... a 50mm wide rim while to Dolo has a 100mm, is this better for having the ability to get more grippy tires? ...


Depends on the tire, the terrain and the conditions.

Generally, a wider rim allows the tire profile to be flatter for more float - good for sand & snow - but, also good for maximazing the width of the contact patch to the ground for more grip. Lower the PSI and you've got an even larger contact patch, for flatter & larger for more foat, or simply larger for more area to grip with. If you don't need large of a contact patch to grip your terrain/conditions, then you're needing more effort for pedalling for no useful gain. (p.s., if you try that with the stock Dolo tires, you'd better have good legs - there's a reason 120 tpi tires are popular)

Many prefer the handing from fat tires on a narrower rim for non-sand/snow use, as the tire takes on a rouder profile (but it digs into sand and snow instead of attempting to float). Check the *numerious threads* where users have generously posted what the tire tracks look like in sand for the various tires/rims/PSI, so you see what the differences are.

So winter/sand riders have a tendency to prefer 80mm,100mm rims. Summer trail riders tend to prefer 65mm, with a few really liking ~50mm. 65mm or 80mm seems to be the preferred "compromise" when you'll only have one Fat Bike or only one set of wheels, but will be riding year round or through a wide variety of terrains & conditions.

Your preferences may vary.


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

Here my Dolomite. 









sent from my back yard

To answer a few questions.
I didn't paint my dolomite. They are sold this colour under the Schwinn name. 
I changed the brakes to bb7's. Alloy bars, stem and seatpost. 34t megarange freewheel. Deore cranks with 32, 22 chainrings, that I shift over with my foot. So far this has worked out well in the 2 big days it has been ridden. XT shadow rear derailleur with XT thumbie. Uprated sealed BB cups. 
The frame bag doesn't go to the bottom so that I can still have a water bottle in the cage.
I JB welded the freewheel to the rear hub because I know this is a week spot, when you gear down a bike. 
Also running tubeless on original tyres using glade wrap and liquid latex.

This is a loner bike for friends, I have a surly ICT. All the parts cost me nothing as I had them lying around my workshop (I'm a bike mechanic).

One other thing I changed was the rotor bolts to some better quality ones. Dont want the heads turning off in a few years when I want to replace a rotor or something.

I use my fat bikes for exploring the coastlines around NZ.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

mr pinga said:


> Here my Dolomite.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like you added another cog up front thats smaller and connected it to the stock one, hows that working out on the trails? I would like to do the exact same thing.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Sure looks nice in white.



momikey said:


> Looks like you added another cog up front thats smaller and connected it to the stock one...


A double or triple front. And the posts below it for a custom stack freewheel. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11152236

Chart showing stock freewheel and what you get from a number of different fronts, from the stock 36T down to 28T, and the 22T from a MTN triple. Also showing the MTN triple with the stock freewheel, 34T megarange and various custom stacks of the megarange. 








Or for a 25T (in between the 22T and 28T above), comparing stock vs a single 25T vs. a 22T-32T front off of a MTN triple, for the stock rear or the 34T megarange. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-24.html#post11404506


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

That is a lot of info right there, thank you! I was curious about added just the one cog to the inside of the stock one, seemed like some people are buying new triple or double cranks and the arms are hitting the frame if not on the correct bend. I also saw that a 24t cog on amazon can be had for like $15, so I think it will be a cheap solution. Thanks for posting the charts, I'm gonna start absorbing all the numbers you posted!


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

Is ANYONE riding a Dolomite "out of the box"? That is, without changing it?
I am seriously thinking about buying one. But if I have to change everything....I will buy a Salsa Mukluk.


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

mr pinga said:


> Here my Dolomite.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your Bike looks nice, I like your little Frame Bag (but why not make it the whole area of your open frame?). I like the Dolomite. However? How much (money) do you think you have into your Dolomite, including paint and components?

I am looking at Fat Bikes and wondering if buying one ready to really go on snow and Mt. Biking, would be better than buying one that might need so many updates.

I should add that ride a Walmart Bike, and have many miles on it, over 350 since May. We ride pavement, trails and rails to trails. It is a Genesis 29" (in PINK!) I love it. No updates on it. I have been Bike Shopping, but my Genesis fits me so well, we are thinking of just updating it with better components, as needed. It is a Woman's Bike and I am working on (in my mind) a Pink Camo Frame Bag for it with a sling (top angle slung from seat post to handlebars).

So I am NOT against a Dolomite. I am VERY interested. I just have been shopping and the Dolomite is NOT made as nice as the "others" and I see on this thread that people are making so many changes to them.

THANKS!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

So many people are making changes to the Dolomite, so that it can do what they need/want it to do. To get the Dolomite 'out the door' to market at its price point, there was no way they could outfit it for everyone's needs. People are making the changes/upgrades that they need or want. If you're going to need a lot of those for your purposes, watch out how much that will cost, as you can quickly be over the cost of a low end "real" fat bike, that comes equiped for all of the basics you'd expect from a trail capable fat bike.

So, it comes geared for cruising. If you're doing more than cruising, or more than riding relative flat, you're going to need to change the gearing. This is a topic we've covered over and over and over in this thread. So take a short backup and read this post. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-29.html#post11503000

If you haven't got a lot of coin, there are some cheap and some in expensive ways to do some basic upgrades. But if you have the coin, see if you can test ride one of the low end fat bikes that comes equiped out of the box, then see if you can find a Dolo to test ride.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

If you have to ask how much things cost, then you probably don't work on bikes.. So add 50 bucks to every 100 you're going to spend for installation at a bike shop. The dolo needs pretty much everything that moves replaced to have the options and adjustability and durability to ride in terrain that doesn't include concrete. I don't know why anyone would dump that much money into any bike, it makes no sense. You still end up with a weak possibly ill fitting frame.


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> If you're buying the bike to immediately dump money into, you're better off going with a bikes direct bike cause it's gonna be the same amount of money and better.
> 
> Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk


Do you OWN a Fatty From BikesDirect? I would love to know how much better those bikes are.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Yes I OWN one. I don't know why we're capitalizing that lol

For one it's a khs frame that comes in many sizes to fit your body. That's the most important part of buying a bike. Then there's the drivetrain the wheels the tires the hubs the headset the bottom bracket etc. All the stuff that you want, like changeable chainrings, 9 speed freehub, tires without bricks in them.

Its impractical to compare them. You're comparing a walmart beach cruiser (that comes without the gears for sand) to a lbs quality fat bike.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

From my experience and that of many others, it's not as extreme as ou2mame says regarding having to replace *everything* just to go off of concrete, but it does trend that way, and more so the more technical/demanding you get. And very much so if you're going to go backcountry or truly mountain or snow away from help, then there is a safety issue if your components fail (brakes anyone?), or even if they don't fail, they're simply not capable of doing the job well enough. Not to mention the convience of - will the bike get you back from where it got you to?

And, does the one-size only frame fit you...


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> If you have to ask how much things cost, then you probably don't work on bikes.. So add 50 bucks to every 100 you're going to spend for installation at a bike shop. The dolo needs pretty much everything that moves replaced to have the options and adjustability and durability to ride in terrain that doesn't include concrete. I don't know why anyone would dump that much money into any bike, it makes no sense. You still end up with a weak possibly ill fitting frame.


THANK for your replies. I have not worked on bikes in 20 years. I just started riding again this Summer. (we used to ride bicycles over 1000 miles per year) We now ride Daily and I ride for my health. I really would like a Snow Bike, we live in NW SD on 161 acres. There is such a difference of price between the Mongoose and the others, I have been shopping and test riding both at Bike Shops and at Walmart....I am that overweight old lady people see riding bikes around Walmart....as a SERIOUS buyer. <smiles> So I am trying to ask folks that ACTUALLY ride the Dolomites out on trails and on snow, and know bikes, how much money they have added to their bikes.

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR THE REPLIES. I really appreciate your input.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> ...You're comparing a walmart beach cruiser (that comes without the gears for sand)...


You've done this before. Please stop calling it a beach cruiser. Even with your gears warning, you can end up unintentionally misleading people. Out of the box it can only adequately do beach on well packed sand.

Out of the box, it's much more accurate to call it a concrete cruiser or a urban bike trail cruiser, provided there aren't much of hills. Yes, stock it can go on some country trails, but for a newbie who doesn't know what's involved in mtn biking or a particular trail could quickly get themselves into "inconvenient" or suddenly into dangerous.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Marna_Kazmaier said:


> ... I really would like a Snow Bike, we live in NW SD on 161 acres. There is such a difference of price between the Mongoose and the others, ...


O.K. then. A snow bike. 
I rode my Dolo stock in the snow. On the flat trails - fine. Any kind of hill (slope) and it's work. The second there's a real hill or the snow is not packed, with the stock gearing you're screwed. I could fight it through six inches, but it is a fight. One night ride, after & during a heavy snowfall I said **** it and walked it home. Much better with 120 tpi tires, but that doesn't fix the gearing. (you're going to enjoy 120 tpi tires)

My gut feel: for your needs you can make a Dolo do what you need with some basic upgrades. Cost will vary depending on which parts, source and who does the work. But over the next season or two, as you end up doing all of the upgrades you want to get the ride you want, I strongly believe you would end up spending as much or more than one of the low end "real" fat bikes. For running around on 161 acres in the snow, you don't want to get stranded - there is a real safety issue. You live on 161 acres in SD so you know what I mean. Can you walk back? Can you walk back after injuries sustained in a wipe out by a component failure? Can your cell reach a tower? If you're injured, can someone get to you in time?

If you LIKE doing bike work, and are confident in the reliability of that work for running around on 161 acres in the winter, and you've got the bucks, then you can go for it.

But, you'll enjoy riding more if you're riding a bike that does what you really want from the start (maybe a few tweaks or indulgences down the road), and does it better, instead of all those rides where you're fighting to get the bike to take you where you want to go. Simply, more enjoyment in snow or in summer.

Bottom line: for your needs as stated, if you've got the money to afford one of the low end "real" fat bikes, I believe that the Dolo is not the bike for you.

To save money, and be safe, DO make sure that the low end "real" fat bike you chose is one that is equipped for snow out of the box (or as close as possible). As in, brakes & tires. The gearing should be fine. Check out the many threads on those bikes to ensure you make an informed choice.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I do all my own wrenching, and I have built my last few mtbs, so for me the decision wasn't even swayed by labor prices or lack of knowledge. I wanted to try snow riding on a cheap bike, but after adding what I would do to it, it didn't make any sense. Plus, there's no way I'm going to ride a 50lbs bike. That just won't happen. We've come too far lol

The Boris is a great bike for the money. Standard parts, unlimited upgrade possibilities, and put of the box it works. I've been riding it in technical trails, beating the hell out of it for every mile on it and it's been great. 

I wish there were other companies making bikes in these price ranges because fat bike prices are so inflated it's ridiculous. But I'm happy with it, and fiscally it makes sense, so I recommend them. If there was another company shipping a fat bike for 600 bucks, or even 500 if you go with the gravity, I'd recommend them too. But bd is the place for affordable bikes.

And as for it not being a beach cruiser, you're right lol.. Its really not meant for that either out of the box.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Marna_Kazmaier said:


> ...I am that overweight old lady people see riding bikes around Walmart...


Depending on your weight, to be safe you would NEED to upgrade at least the rear brake on a Dolo, but should be upgrading both front & rear. (if done on the cheap, rear brake first, like a cargo bike, not the front which one would normally make the stronger brake). May or may not matter on the 161 acres, but if you're out on public trails or roads... or have hills.


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> Yes I OWN one. I don't know why we're capitalizing that lol
> 
> For one it's a khs frame that comes in many sizes to fit your body. That's the most important part of buying a bike. Then there's the drivetrain the wheels the tires the hubs the headset the bottom bracket etc. All the stuff that you want, like changeable chainrings, 9 speed freehub, tires without bricks in them.
> 
> Its impractical to compare them. You're comparing a walmart beach cruiser (that comes without the gears for sand) to a lbs quality fat bike.


<smiles> Thank you. Sometimes people inject comments without really knowing...I sure appreciate your reply. We looked at the Dolomite the other day (Walmart got in a new shipment, but BOY! they sell quickly! Spearfish, SD is also a College town) Anyway, after looking at the "others" in Bike Shops, I could really see the difference. I guess my biggest question was: Did *I* need the better Fatty. Thanks again.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> ... I wanted to try snow riding on a cheap bike,...
> The Boris ... I've been riding it in technical trails, beating the hell out of it for every mile on it and it's been great. ...


Have you had it out in snow yet?


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I haven't owned a dolo but I have seen one and took a really long good look at it and that's when I realized how much money it would take to bring it to a spec I'd feel confident riding. I haven't been in the snow yet. I got my boris this summer and I live in long Island. I have ridden studded tires on concrete bike trails on a mtb before so I'm not new to riding in the winter. It's just impossible to ride in the trails on a regular bike so that's going to be new to me. But if snows anything like sand, this bike can ride up sand dunes in powder sand with only a decent amount of effort.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> ... But if snows anything like sand, this bike can ride up sand dunes in powder sand with only a decent amount of effort.


And I've had the Dolo in snow, but not sand. Hard to compare, but your bike sounds promising. Hopefully she can find threads where riders have had theirs in the snow.

P.S.
Marna, go read the thread on the width of the rims before you buy your bike. 
If it's going to be only a snow bike, go for 100mm rims (maximum float, maximum weight distribution). 
If it's going to be a year round bike, consider 80mm or 65mm rims. 
And a warning: once you ride a fat bike in the summer, no matter the rim size, you may forget you have other bikes... so if you make an informed choice up front, you can enjoy even more.
And NEVER let any partners or friends try it. You may not get it back.


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

Here my Dolomite. 









To answer a few questions.
I didn't paint my dolomite. They are sold this colour under the Schwinn name. 
I changed the brakes to bb7's. Alloy bars, stem and seatpost. 34t megarange freewheel. Deore cranks with 32, 22 chainrings, that I shift over with my foot. So far this has worked out well in the 2 big days it has been ridden. XT shadow rear derailleur with XT thumbie. Uprated sealed BB cups. 
The frame bag doesn't go to the bottom so that I can still have a water bottle in the cage.
I JB welded the freewheel to the rear hub because I know this is a week spot, when you gear down a bike. 
Also running tubeless on original tyres using glade wrap and liquid latex.

This is a loner bike for friends, I have a surly ICT. All the parts cost me nothing as I had them lying around my workshop (I'm a bike mechanic).

One other thing I changed was the rotor bolts to some better quality ones. Dont want the heads turning off in a few years when I want to replace a rotor or something.

I use my fat bikes for exploring the coastlines around NZ.

sent from my back yard


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

Canoe said:


> O.K. then. A snow bike.
> I rode my Dolo stock in the snow. On the flat trails - fine. Any kind of hill (slope) and it's work. The second there's a real hill or the snow is not packed, with the stock gearing you're screwed. I could fight it through six inches, but it is a fight. One night ride, after & during a heavy snowfall I said **** it and walked it home. Much better with 120 tpi tires, but that doesn't fix the gearing. (you're going to enjoy 120 tpi tires)
> 
> My gut feel: for your needs you can make a Dolo do what you need with some basic upgrades. Cost will vary depending on which parts, source and who does the work. But over the next season or two, as you end up doing all of the upgrades you want to get the ride you want, I strongly believe you would end up spending as much or more than one of the low end "real" fat bikes. For running around on 161 acres in the snow, you don't want to get stranded - there is a real safety issue. You live on 161 acres in SD so you know what I mean. Can you walk back? Can you walk back after injuries sustained in a wipe out by a component failure? Can your cell reach a tower? If you're injured, can someone get to you in time?
> ...


Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I really appreciate it.
I thing a Motobecane or really a Mukluk will be the bicycle I need.
I did kinda grin about the 161 acres. Yes, I can walk it, even in the snow, wind, injured, I was a Sled Dog Musher (many moons ago) so I am pretty tough. <smiles> The best part is, we have access to 15,000 acres all around us. Our closest neighbor is 9 miles from our home. We did NOT have cell service the first five years we were here. None. Nadda. No Service. (I don't like cells anyway)

Again. Thanks for taking the time to write up your note. I really have been researching and thinking about a Dolomite...yes, I really have been riding them around Walmart! Ha3






</smiles>


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

Canoe said:


> And I've had the Dolo in snow, but not sand. Hard to compare, but your bike sounds promising. Hopefully she can find threads where riders have had theirs in the snow.
> 
> P.S.
> Marna, go read the thread on the width of the rims before you buy your bike.
> ...


BAHAHAHAH BAHAHHAHAH Thanks! My husband and I have been test riding bikes. I really need something better than what I am riding. He thinks I need a Mt Bike (and I know I do) but I want a FATTY! Last week we took out (from a local shop) a Trek Sky S Mt. Bike and a high dollar ($5000) Fatty (I can not for the life of me remember the name, but Salsa) anyway, we traded back and forth and rode around a park, grass and pavement. I really want a FATTY! I am sure I will end up with both....but I doubt I will buy the Sky S.

My husband wants to wait til it snows, and the Bike Shop suggested we come back when we get snow to ride them again, and ride the Fatties, and take them for a good ride.

Thanks again for all the information.


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

mr pinga said:


> Here my Dolomite.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you! It looks very nice (and inviting to ride <smiles>)
But if you are a Bike Mechanic, could you have just bought a Fatty Bike Frame and built a bike cheaper? (I ma not being a smart elic, I am seriously curious)


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

Marna_Kazmaier said:


> Thank you! It looks very nice (and inviting to ride <smiles>)
> But if you are a Bike Mechanic, could you have just bought a Fatty Bike Frame and built a bike cheaper? (I ma not being a smart elic, I am seriously curious)


The price of $450 NZD for the bike is cheaper than a frame. And I get a wheelset and tyres as well. I started years ago with a pugsley, and this bikes rides better with a lot less flex.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I could spend the price of dolo on the drivetrain alone and end up wanting more lol


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

mr pinga said:


> The price of $450 NZD for the bike is cheaper than a frame. And I get a wheelset and tyres as well. I started years ago with a pugsley, and this bikes rides better with a lot less flex.


Thats assuring to hear you like the frame of the dolo over a pugsley from years back. I get that its a heavy bike and hopefully that means the frame can take some stress.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

It's really the components that are heavy not the frame. The tires and wheels specifically. But a wheelset is more than the dolo lol


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

mr pinga said:


> The price of $450 NZD for the bike is cheaper than a frame. And I get a wheelset and tyres as well. I started years ago with a pugsley, and this bikes rides better with a lot less flex.


Thanks for your reply. Are you saying you like the Dolomite BETTER than the Pugsley???


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Marna_Kazmaier said:


> Canoe said:
> 
> 
> > ...And NEVER let any partners or friends try it. You may not get it back.
> ...


Laugh if you want. This happens all the time. You have been warned.

Also, make sure you get the fatty before you get another bike. Many people find that after getting a fatty they forget about their other bikes. A fair number end up selling their other bikes.

And it's cheaper to have two sets of tires, one set for winter and another for summer, than it is to have two bikes. Some people have two wheel sets, with a different rim width for winter vs. summer, like a 100mm set and a 65mm or 50mm set.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

I think the whole fat bike becoming most fat bikers only bike year round thing gets a bit overplayed in the fat bike forum. I live in MN and a lot if us have fat bikes to survive our horribly long winters. We like our fat bikes and are happy to ride them in snow in winter or sand in summer, but most riders here go back to their regular cross country mtn bike in summer. Only a small percentage use their fat bikes in summer around here. I love my Mukluk in winter, but can't wait to ride my FS once spring comes again.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

It's the fun factor that puts the gathering dust on the others. 
That and the versatility in where you can go.
some variations
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/why-fat-935065.html

This summer around here I've seen more fat bikes than any season/year before. I'd run into someone with a fat bike around here and ask what they have for another bike, and they seem surprised and go 'oh yeah, I've got a ____. Forgot about that'.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

I think it's cool that people ride them in summer and many in MN do, but it's still a small percentage. From what I see around here, well over 90% only ride them in winter.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Hi Dolomite owners, I'm thinking of getting one but have few questions.

1) Can I use external BB 68/73mm? I have spare 2011 XTR Crankset with BB and would like to use that.
2) Can I use 10 speed cassette (11-36T XT)?
3) What is the weight of the frame with fork?
4) What is the seat post diameter, 28.6 or 27.2?
5) What is the head tube diameter, 1-1/8?

Thank you.


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

BB is 100mm so you can't use your Xtr.
It is a screw on rear wheel, so you can only use screw on freewheels. 
Not sure of weight.
Seaport diameter is 28.6mm


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

mr pinga said:


> BB is 100mm so you can't use your Xtr.
> It is a screw on rear wheel, so you can only use screw on freewheels.
> Not sure of weight.
> Seaport diameter is 28.6mm


Thank you.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Lol oh someone already answered


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

Im thinking because of the Walmart 90 day return policy, get a dolomite and actually use it in the snow (or sand..whatever you plan on getting a fat bike for). If it is fun, works fine, etc, then keep it. Save a crap load. If it is not, then you know for sure and can return it for a full refund. 

My only real concern is the weight and how hard it would be to move it in snow. Ive been reading things all around the web about this bike, and that is the only conclusion I can come to.

If it is not fun or doesn't work like I hope, then I think I will definitely buy one from bikes direct for around $500ish. One in particular is the Graviity 29Plus. Since I have a full suspension MTB, I like the idea that the Gravity 29Plus can be used as a fat bike AS WELL as a 29 incher solid frame...which would actually be great for paved rail trails which my 26" FS MTB can be slow at times on.

Anyone have any knowledge of the 29Plus Fat Bike from Bikes Direct? Seems like it would be a logical choice to get the best of both worlds (if this Dolomite thing does not work out)!


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

lethalsvt said:


> Im thinking because of the Walmart 90 day return policy, get a dolomite and actually use it in the snow (or sand..whatever you plan on getting a fat bike for). If it is fun, works fine, etc, then keep it. Save a crap load. If it is not, then you know for sure and can return it for a full refund.
> 
> My only real concern is the weight and how hard it would be to move it in snow. Ive been reading things all around the web about this bike, and that is the only conclusion I can come to.
> 
> ...


HOW VERY FUNNY YOU SHOULD ASK THIS QUESTION! About an hour ago I asked the same thing in the Fatty Motobecane Thread on this Fourum

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/moto-bikes-direct-fatbikes-875900-141.html

We went ahead and ordered the Gravity Bullseye Monster, in GRREN, and I can not wait for it to arrive!

I looked and looked at the Dolomite and test rode (in the store) as well as the high dollar Fatties. Test Rode, fell in love with, then after reading on this thread all of the upgrades made on the Dolo, bought the Gravity.

Good Luck to you, and let us know how that Dolo Test Ride goes for you on the snow and such.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Using the 90 return policy is a great idea. Wait until the snow flies before buying. Snow riding is fun, but very hard on a good bike. Can't imagine riding snow on a Dolomite. First time I rode my Mukluk in snow it was so hard I hated it. Kept with it though. Really like snow riding now, but some days can still stink.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

They only had the beast at my local Walmart not the Dolo. Im sure my in store testing wont revel the true nature of how good or bad it really is (in the snow, especially).

I will definitely post after I take a few snow rides. Mostly terrain through trails in the woods, rail trails and street (where I take my mountain bike now). I don't think any bike on the planet can go through deep snow, but for packed snow on trails etc..that's what I intend to test.

I went through this same thing with my $400 Diamondback Recoil FS mountain bike 3-4 years ago. Everyone said (especially the LBS people).."oh don't buy that, get a Trek, a Specialized, etc" Never buy from a BBB blah blah blah"...

Well years later, the bike has ridden some of the rockiest, muddiest, highest, etc trails and hasn't missed a step! I ride long and hard, 3 times a week, and it is a blast! It is not as light as bikes 4 times as much, but it is not heavy either (probably 4-5lbs difference which is barely noticeable). All I can say, it has stood the real-life test and was a great decision. I don't know if the Dolo will yield similar results, mainly because the terrain (snow) may indeed require a more expensive bike to maneuver period..so I will see.

I bike for fun and fitness. Not looking to be the fastest or compete in any races. I understand the need for paying more when it is required...when it is a need, not just a want.

Will definitely post an honest, unbiased review. Just need some good ol' New England snow (which I am actually looking forward to now with this fat bike thing!!!!)


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

Interesting..I do feel like there might be a good chance that ANY fat bike, cheap or not, can struggle in the snow. I think the 10lb weight difference between the Dolo and another bike like yours or the ones Im looking at on Bikes Direct may indeed feel like 20-30 more because of the snow. 

Mountain biking you can get away with a cheaper bike like I said. Terrain is more forgiving than snow. Really interested to find out first hand!!


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

lethalsvt said:


> They only had the beast at my local Walmart not the Dolo. Im sure my in store testing wont revel the true nature of how good or bad it really is (in the snow, especially).
> 
> I will definitely post after I take a few snow rides. Mostly terrain through trails in the woods, rail trails and street (where I take my mountain bike now). I don't think any bike on the planet can go through deep snow, but for packed snow on trails etc..that's what I intend to test.
> 
> ...


I could have written this post, only my Mt. Bike is a Genesis 29", we bought at....Walmart. They are actually really nice bikes. I ride out here on the Prairie on Gumbo Soil or Benanite....the stuff they make clumpy kitty litter out of. <sighs> It is TOUGH STUFF! It makes very very fine dust that gets into the parts of our bikes....but there Genesis have really held up.

I do need to upgrade my Mt Bike soon. Why I am interested in the 29PLUS. I have been looking at a 2015 Trek Marlin 5, nice bike and I like the men's bikes, they have more frame room for Frame Bags....I am getting ready to make myself.

I too ride fun and fitness. And it is working for me. <smiles>

I rode the Dolo around Walmart to check out the feel and the shifting and all. I knew it would ride much different on other surfaces.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

lethalsvt said:


> ... wont revel the true nature of how good or bad it really is (in the snow, especially). I will definitely post after I take a few snow rides. ... I don't think any bike on the planet can go through deep snow, but for packed snow on trails etc..that's what I intend to test....


As previously posted, here's what a stock Dolo is like in the snow. As explained many times in this thread to many newbies - and with that info available to anyone who bothers to read - * the Dolo comes stock geared as a cruiser*, not geared like 99.999% of the fat bikes. Therefore, you're likely going to want to fix/upgrade that...


Canoe said:


> O.K. then. A snow bike.
> I rode my Dolo stock in the snow. On the flat trails - fine. Any kind of hill (slope) and it's work. The second there's a real hill or the snow is not packed, with the stock gearing you're screwed. I could fight it through six inches, but it is a fight. One night ride, after & during a heavy snowfall I said **** it and walked it home. Much better with 120 tpi tires, but that doesn't fix the gearing. (you're going to enjoy 120 tpi tires).


So if you want to enjoy other than nicely packed snow, or other than flat, you're going to want to improve the gearing. Look back in this thread for options. For more enjoyment, 120 TPI tires.

If you'd like to find out what Fat Bikes can do in the snow, rather than speculate, or have to wait until you try it, why don't you go see if you can find a _Fat Bike forum_, where people who've ridden Fat Bikes in the snow have posted their experiences, and what gearing & tires work in what conditions...


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

I did..and actually saw a few people ride stock Beasts and Dolomites in the snow (youtube) as well as favorable reviews of actual snow riding.

Because of all the mixed reviews, and because of my personal experience with a BBB store Diamondback, I think at least it is worth trying out. Especially with the 90 day return policy, it seems like a no brainer.

I respect your opinion and realize it may well be suited for a cruiser type environment rather than snow. But since there were definitely some people who have had good success (again, through forums and random videos), and with the return policy on top, I think anyone in a situation like me would be suited at least trying.

Because worst that can happen..you test drive a fat bike for free and realize: "Hey, this fat bike thing in the snow is too cold, period. Or the snow is just not adequate in my area for ANY fat bike. Return, no cost. Or hey, this bike sucks but I like fat biking and just need something a little more suited like a lot of people say...and when I do, I will really appreciate the difference now that I know". Return, no cost, buy a better (perhaps BD bike). Or "hey, this bike is great and so much fun" Keep it...out $250 total.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

lethalsvt said:


> ... Or hey, this bike sucks but I like fat biking and just need something a little more suited like a lot of people say...


Then the 'danger' is that you get one of the rare lemons delivered, or that the quality of the Dolo and/or that it's geared in cruiser range, means that you don't like the experience and mistakenly attribute it to Fat Bikes, instead of to the specifics of your cruiser Dolo in snow experience. So keep that in mind when you're trying to determine if you like:
- fat biking
- snow biking
- the Dolo, stock, geared in cruiser range, on hills or on/in snow
Or gently put a used triple Mtn on the front and try that at 32T and 22T for a more meaningful test in the snow and on hills.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Canoe said:


> Or gently put a used triple Mtn on the front and try that at 32T and 22T for a more meaningful test in the snow and on hills.


For anything but road use, this needs to be done.

On a side note, based on how nice the people at your wally world are, bikes fall under a different return policy. They must be in "new" and "unused" condition. Of course, you could always wash it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... On a side note, based on how nice the people at your wally world are, bikes fall under a different return policy. They must be in "new" and "unused" condition. Of course, you could always wash it.


Buy it online, get it delivered to your local store, pick the box up at the store. You don't want them assembling it and riding it around back before you have a chance to lube it before you ride it. 
If you decide to return it, get "permission" from online "where" you purchased it, then with that in hand return the bike to the store, just in case. No return shipping costs.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Copied from what I wrote on BBB forum*

So the Dolo ended up getting delivered a day early and made it in great shape, no dents on the box. After a regrease and adjustment of the wheels/brakes things seemed alright. I replaced the cup seals with the recommended upgrade $10 amazon part and the axle rolls much easier. After that was done I added the 24T sprocket to lighten the load up on my legs. This thing is awesome and I rarely need to drop below 3rd gear on hills. All and all I have an extra $25 into this bike and I was all over hardpack inclined trails today making me think this thing will be fine on snow. I also received one of the newer models that has a different set of tires than the first editions. Tires are about 2lbs lighter each (2200grams each) not great but much more aggressive tread.

I really enjoyed having this thing to ride the past few days.























































Cruise gear---Hill,snow gear









Also, for anyone who owns this bike, this lower gear improves the chainline greatly to a straighter line.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Interesting!
Both the sprocket and the new rubber.

Could you post a full photo of the tire?
And:
- what's the widest width of the tire?
- what's the clearance between the inside of the chain stays and the tire at its widest?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Interesting!
> Both the sprocket and the new rubber.
> 
> Could you post a full photo of the tire?
> ...


For you sir I will go get that info right now, your posts have helped me out a ton, be right back with the info.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sorry for the dirty tires, we just got back from the forest.




























Shows 0.840


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Interesting. 3/8" narrower than those on my Dolo. 
Nicer for the chain clearing the tire. Any issues when the chain is bouncing around on a trail?

So the smaller tire size contributes to its lower mass. I wonder how supple (rolling resistance) it is compared to the original stock tires. Have you ridden a Dolo or Beast with the original stock tires?

Any 'brand' on the sidewalls?

What PSI are you running?

And, since you seem to be in the mood for measuring, with no one on the bike (sitting under it's own weight), what's the height off a flat floor to the centre of the axle?

p.s.
I didn't say earlier, but thanks for documenting what you did as you went along. I _always_ seem to think of that afterwards.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Interesting. 3/8" narrower than those on my Dolo.
> Nicer for the chain clearing the tire. Any issues when the chain is bouncing around on a trail?
> 
> So the smaller tire size contributes to its lower mass. I wonder how supple (rolling resistance) it is compared to the original stock tires. Have you ridden a Dolo or Beast with the original stock tires?
> ...


So, I only road the bike for 20min the night before around midnight in the pitch dark after I assembled it. I decided to do the new cog right off the back. So I have no real idea of how the stock 1st editions or beasts ride to compare it to. However the chain never fell off once in the 10miles or so today and I was all over boulders in the lower gear.

I can say that at 8psi(how the wheels were sent) the tire seemed to self-steer a ton. At 14psi today one the trails(mostly flat hardpack) i spent half the ride with no hands cause the bike was so smooth. SO I can safely say that releaved the tire steer. I would like to experiment with a few psi lower just to see how much more absorbent riding over bumps would be.

I honestly think these are left over tires from some manufacturer, or maybe im just a conspiracy theorist. But it really seems like a logo has been removed from the sidewall. I will try to get a high res shot of that tomorrow in the light.

From the floor to the bottom of the axle housing is 11.25'', I had to use a measuring tape and not my micrometer.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sorry I didn't post this back yesterday. Got tied up, so I copied from the BBB forum this morning,

Uploaded some more pics of the tires, maybe someone can name the MFG logo. Either way they hold up well in the mud and on hills. I had an OEM stem and metal brake levers from a specialized hardrock that make the riding position much more comfortable on this bike for long rides and the metal break levers make me feel like I'm not going to snap them with my hand like the plastic ones did. Also only about 30miles on the bike and the breaks are wearing in nicely. Almost all the slack is out of the cable for break in and I can lock the wheels pretty well.

So the way I see it is that im in this bike $275 so far and I have a sturdy(but heavy) frame. Decent tires that will take me on moderate trails. 100mm wide rims, 14 speeds and nice enough brakes and a rear derailer stock. So the modding might already be done. At the most a better seat and water bottle holder. So <$300 has gone a long way. Time will tell how the bike likes the snow.



















And here is where it looks like a logo has been rubbed off


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... However the chain never fell off once in the 10miles or so today and I was all over boulders in the lower gear...
> From the floor to the bottom of the axle housing is 11.25'', I had to use a measuring tape and not my micrometer.


I was wondering how the chain may have bounced around and contacted the sidewall of the tire, wearing it down over time. 
And from floor to the center of the axle (bike sitting straight up) is the radius, double that and we know the height of the tire to compare to others (gear inches, etc.).

I don't recognize that tire. Perhaps others will.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sorry the 11.5'' is from floor to BB axle, I'll get you the floor to rear axle measurement cause I had no clue thats what you were looking for. No real chain whip on the tiers even in 1st gear BTW. I did remove 2 links though cause the stock gear even had some slack in it.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

floor to rear axle is 14.5"


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

watts888 said:


> For anything but road use, this needs to be done.
> 
> On a side note, based on how nice the people at your wally world are, bikes fall under a different return policy. They must be in "new" and "unused" condition. Of course, you could always wash it.


I disagree with your first statement. I rode my bike on the beach no problem I assume snow is roughly the same.

And I also live in a hilly area. I can ride this bike in neighborhoods I would have to walk my beast.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ImaBum said:


> ... I assume snow is roughly the same...


You've made a lot of assumptions in your posts. Don't mislead others with assumptions.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

For flat ground, the stock gearing is fine. With the 22T chainring up front, you can get up pretty much any hill. I tried the dolo with stock gearing on trails (lots of hills over 15 degree incline) and although it can be done, it wasn't easy. Had to stand and mash, which is a great way to brake stuff. After a gear swap, I'm climbing up the mountain, although very slowly.

And by trails, I mean actual trails with rocks and roots and hills, not asphalt paths through the neighborhood. The old style tires work OK for dirt trails at 13-15psi, but bump absorption is completely gone. Really wish walmart had sent them out with the new tires. Started seeing them about a week after I ordered mine. Does anybody have both types to compare the flexibility. The new tred is obviously better for off road.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

watts888 said:


> For flat ground, the stock gearing is fine. With the 22T chainring up front, you can get up pretty much any hill. I tried the dolo with stock gearing on trails (lots of hills over 15 degree incline) and although it can be done, it wasn't easy. Had to stand and mash, which is a great way to brake stuff. After a gear swap, I'm climbing up the mountain, although very slowly.
> 
> And by trails, I mean actual trails with rocks and roots and hills, not asphalt paths through the neighborhood. The old style tires work OK for dirt trails at 13-15psi, but bump absorption is completely gone. Really wish walmart had sent them out with the new tires. Started seeing them about a week after I ordered mine. Does anybody have both types to compare the flexibility. The new tred is obviously better for off road.


Watts, did you need to remove any links from your chain when you went with the smaller front chainring? I added a 24t to my Dolo and removed 2 links because of some slip I was having but couldn't tell if it was the chain or that my spocket wasn't completely tightened down parallel to the OEM crank/cog, it is now. I have seen a few threads about what tire pressure to run for certain terrain, but since I don't know this new model do you have any suggestion of what psi I should run. It seems to be a guess and check thing.

P.S.

i agree with you about the lower gearing, I have a 20 foot hill in the back yard that's at least a 30 degree incline. I like to test out the bikes on it when new tires or pedals come in to test the claims of great grip. So I had no real chance of making it up on the stock front sprocket, but with the new 24, I can ride up in 2nd or 3rd gear with no slip even on a wet day. Really impressed with the traction from the bike so far in wet/slippery conditions.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Tire pressure is personal preference. It depends on terrain, speed, riding style, etc.. I will raise the pressure when it's dry and lower it when it's wet on the same trail. I'll also air down and pump it back up depending on how it's changing. So I wouldn't look to others for psi recommendations, it's up to you. If you're sliding out and not grabbing lower it. If you're smacking your rims or getting self steer, raise it a bit.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

momikey said:


> Watts, did you need to remove any links from your chain when you went with the smaller front chainring?


The stock derailure is a mid-length cage, so changing to a 22T chainring, guaranteed you'll need to remove some links.

However, I don't have dirrect experience with it to know how many links. I swapped freewheel, chain and derailure shortly after I did some demo riding in stock configuration. I run a 29T chainring up front with an 8-speed 14-32 freewheel in back. Can get up most hills, and still have enough top end speed for road use. The only hills I can't get with this gear range are the long steep one's I'd normally get off and walk anyway. So much more fun to catch my breath on the uphill and have energy for the downhill.


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## 779334 (Oct 10, 2014)

Has anyone of you guys or girls taken the Dolomite on a rough singletrack? Will it handle well? No bent frames?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Here's some links to one of the trails I've taken my dolo on. I weigh about 240 geared up. I'm not worried about the frame. I have some reservations with the fork, but as of yet, no problems. Trail is mostly less than ~4-6" diameter rocks & roots. some rock gardens. I haven't jumped it other than rolling off some 8" dirt benchs created by roots.

Shawnee Mission Park MTB Trails 4-20-13 - YouTube
Mountain Biking Shawnee Mission Park - YouTube
Not my videos. Please forgive the guy that spends 30 seconds staring at a trail sign.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Canoe said:


> You've made a lot of assumptions in your posts. Don't mislead others with assumptions.


How am I misleading? I said I assume. If someone was that dumb to combine "assume" with factual information.. well we do have you here so I do think we need to clarify.

Now do you know my experience in the matter? Not at all. So while you go about your way of blowing things out of proportion..

Living in Colorado I'm no stranger to snow. Having a vacation spot on the west coast I'm no stranger to the beach. I've ridden both snow and sand. Not with a fat tire bike, but with your standard mountain bike. All would be the same, minus the width of the tire. How one would differ over the other based on the increase of size is something I have yet to experience. But based on experience..

So watch yourself next time. :nono:


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

AshevilleMtBiker said:


> Has anyone of you guys or girls taken the Dolomite on a rough singletrack? Will it handle well? No bent frames?


I have only had the Dolo for 5 days or so, lots of fun so far, but hope to make it to the local trail system this weekend(Millstone trails, Barre VT) and hit mostly moderate trails nothing to extreme. The northeast's forecast is to get 2''-4'' of rain from now till Friday so the trails might not be open this weekend. Also I just want to make sure the brakes are fully broken in before I hit a real trail with rock/roots/steep descents.

I re-greased the front hub tonight, and I gotta say, after it was properly packed with grease and the cones were set in the correct spec like I think Canoe had mentioned(with the Sheldon Brown hub link) the wheel just spins for days. Bike surprises me in a lot of ways.

And on that note, lots of people are talking about having issue with either stripping the bolts that hold the calipers on. Or breaking the heads off and needing new hardware. While trying to center the caliper over the rotor this evening I ran into these over torqued bolts. It looks like they must have been assembled with an electric or pneumatic gun at the factory, so they need to be loosened in the same fashion (minus the gun). Those types of assembly equiptment use the motor in them to hit a small hammer in the gun hundreds of times per second to tighten. SO we do the same (to the left ) with an allen wrench and a hammer.

I put the bike in my work stand, supported the weight of the hanging front tire with my foot so it wouldn't bob around. Stuck the allen wrench in and 3 taps to the left the bolt was loosened. Hope this helps.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Another bolt people are having problems with are actually the small ones attaching the rotor to the hub. For some reason, a low grade steel was used, plus they are smaller with a shallower head. Same concept for removal though. A sudden impact will break them loose. Unfortunately, I haven't found a really cheap source for high quality replacement bolts other than getting a whole rotor & bolt kit. For the price though, not a bad set with better quality rotors. They were $6 a week ago, so they'll probably go back down again soon.
Amazon.com : 2pcs Heat Shielding Disc Brake Bolts Rotor 160mm Silver fit for Avid HS1 : Bike Brake Rotors : Sports & Outdoors


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The rotor to hub bolts are standard 5mm bolts. Most hardware stores have them and they are very inexpensive. 

Another option is to get the bolts from a bike shop, but they are usually $0.50 - $1 each.


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## eagle-co94 (Oct 20, 2014)

I ordered mine from Target.com for $250 and added the 3 year warranty for $29 as I figured it was a good idea after reading the thread. Fedex tracking shows it arriving on Friday. Fingers are crossed that it won't be late so I can take it out this weekend. I'll be sure to post pics when it arrives. I will be hitting the Hollywood Boardwalk and Beach for sure. I'm hoping I'll be comfortable on the Dolomite but we'll see. I also have my fingers crossed on getting the newer/lighter tires! Fedex says the entire box weighs 59.4 lbs!

I'm on the fence about a Boris X5 or Bullseye Monster though after reading about height issues. I'm 6'1" with a 35" inseam. 

I see the Gravity 29er says the wheels are "HJC DA38 700Cx32H DOUBLE WALL, ALLOY BLACK" and the 27er are "HJC DA38 650Bx32H DOUBLE WALL, ALLOY BLACK."

Can someone translate that for someone not versed on bike wheels? I presume the 700 and 650 are diameters and the 32H is # of spokes but I'd like to know wheel widths and google wasn't much help. 

I saw that the Bullseye Monster only has 50mm wheels and the Boris X5 has 80mm. I think I'll be okay with the 80mm coming from a Dolomite, but am unsure about the 50's of the Bullseye Monster. That's why I'm curious about the 27PLUS and 29PLUS wheels.


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## hubgeardude (Oct 22, 2014)

Looking at this bike and thinking up a way to make an adapter to fit my 8 speed gear hub into the rear wheel... It's a Sturmey Archer with a disc flange. I saw how it's done on some other fatbikes that come stock with Nexus hubs. Guess all that's left to do is buy the bike and do it!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

32H is the number of spoke holes. 32 is fine for normal all purpose wheels, 36 for heavy duty bomb proof wheels for jumping off space ships, 28 for XC racing wheels, 24 for the mentally unstable XC racing wheels. 8H for crazy nut job road bikes. 
700 = 29er wheels and 700c road bikes wheels standard. Same rim diameter with different widths. You can put wide 700c road bike wheels on thinner mountain bike rims and narrow 29er wheels on wider road bike rims. 
650 = 27.5 wheels and 650b road bike wheels standard.

Looked up HJC, came across the following link. surprise, surprise, it's in chinese.

HER JIUNN CHENG Enterprise Co., Ltd. (HJC)

From what I can gather, the DA38 would have an outside width of 38mm and an inside with of about 32mm. Couldn't find the actual DA38 rim. This would be OK for the 29er plus sized wheel, which would be great for summer use. I wouldn't consider it anywhere close to a true fat tire experience. Probably a good bike, it's a 29er with bigger wheels.


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## eagle-co94 (Oct 20, 2014)

Thanks for the info Watts! Yes, my understanding of Chinese is drawing pictures only. I think I'll keep my eye on the Bullseye Monster or the Boris X5 then if the Dolomite doesn't work out for me. 2 days to go!


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## Kafkaesque (Oct 22, 2014)

Canoe, Moike and other posters -
As I was pondering the question "To Dolomite, or not to Dolomite?" I really appreciated your objective coverage of Dolomites on this thread in particular. After reading your posts for a few months, I finally took the plunge. Obviously made a few "cosmetic" modifications, which I can justify since it still is technically within the Dorel family of bicycles...but it feels good to get out and bike again, even I'm not doing it "hard core."


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Fenders:
Has anybody tried an aftermarket trailer fender? I could see it on the back wheel, maybe on the front if cut/modified.
CE Smith Trailer Fender - 27 3/8in. Long Paintable Galvanized Flat-Top Round | Trailer Fenders| Northern Tool + Equipment


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Shipping dimensions says 8" wide, so I would assume the fender is at least 7" wide. That's pretty wide.

How about a motorcycle fender?

Amazon.com: Cycra 1CYC-2600-12 Universal Black Plastic Motorcycle Supermoto Fender: Automotive


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

Getting ready to head off for long weekend down west coast








sent from my back yard


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

So I brought out the cheap bikes to the trails yesterday. The white one is a V2100 that we just put a new fork/tires/wheel on and that thing did well but there were so many leaves out that going downhill around corners I was just sliding all over. Its real wet up here btw.



















Onto the Dolo now. So this bike was different in many ways on the trails. First the weight, I know that its a large topic of this bike in this thread alone and it was noticeable switching from one bike to the next (I took the v2100 out first). However it is not a real game changer for the ride. I notice it the most from a dead stop, with the 24T up front if you try going up any incline from a dead stop in gears 4-7 on the back you will feel the weight of the bike. Where as if you are in 1-3 it just feels like a mountain bike, the big difference (and I don't know if this is similar to any other model fatbikes) is that once you get moving lets say in 2nd gear after about 15-20ft the inertia of those wheels starts picking up speed and if you do not shift up your legs will just keep spinning on the pedals.

So it just requires a little more shifting range than my XC bike and the amount of things I can clear over (like bolders) is great. I was not sliding on the leaves on this bike, and traction for a wet day was great with these tires. I shot about 20 min of film because i hit everything from tight single track/uphill root climbs/sandy flats/RR tracks/pebble flat roads.

Now the footage will probably give most people a headache, because I mounted my camera on the handlebars but I uploaded one video so people could see that the bike could make it out there in the wild.

Crappy camera/crappy mount.









Don't kill me for all the shakiness!


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

One of my biggest concerns is frame weight. Is it the frame that makes it so heavy or the rims/tires? I feel like you can change a lot but may be stuck with a ridiculous steel frame. Isn't steel more expensive than aluminum? Why the heck would they use a steel frame? 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Steel is cheap and easy to work with. The bulk of the weight is in the wheels tires crank... Dunno about the rest. If you want to spend the money making it light, why not buy a light bike.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

ou2mame said:


> Steel is cheap and easy to work with. The bulk of the weight is in the wheels tires crank... Dunno about the rest. If you want to spend the money making it light, why not buy a light bike.


Because if it has the potential to be lighter (or more manageable than the 50lbs I believe it weighs), that could work.

I'd love a $3000 29lb specialized fatboy. It's a beautiful bike. But for $250 and maybe $100 in Amazon upgrades, it may still provide some fun.

I lifted the Beast at Wallyworld (not Dolo) and really didn't like the weight. But if I can get it down to 40lbs, or change the gears to make it more manageable, I may go that route.

Or....buy a Night Train Bullet and still save a lot over the specialized and have a much better bike than the Dolo.

Decisions decisions decisions! !!! Lol

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Lol... A hundred bucks will get you tires, maybe. You have to be realistic if upgrading is being factored into your budget.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I forgot to post the rest of my choppy shot vids. The bike may be a few more pounds but that should only make our legs stronger right?

At around 3:40 in this video I start climbing a 400 foot incline up the side of my local granite mountain, the bike moves quite well, I think I was in 3rd gear the whole way up it.















Between the tires and the primo pedals, this thing has had some nice grip, and my feet don't slide off at all. Took the bike out yesterday on a snowmobile trail that is currently under construction and is about 12'' of mud deep the whole way across. The bike made it up hill in the mud a few hundred feet on a pretty steep incline with a decent traction. So I'm really hoping for the best come the snow.


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## bacoes (Feb 27, 2004)

I apologize if I missed it somewhere in the thread, but can someone verify the rear spacing on the Dolomite? I found an earlier mention of 8 3/16ths inches, but that works out to 208mm and that just really doesn't sound right.


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

momikey said:


> I forgot to post the rest of my choppy shot vids. The bike may be a few more pounds but that should only make our legs stronger right?
> 
> At around 3:40 in this video I start climbing a 400 foot incline up the side of my local granite mountain, the bike moves quite well, I think I was in 3rd gear the whole way up it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your posts on your personal riding experience with this bike. Nice to see you are having fun with it. Definitely still on my short list of fat bikes!

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

No worries, for some reason I posted a 3rd vid but I guess it didn't save. I recently visited NJ this summer (Avalon, and Atlantic City), coming from VT I could not believe how flat some areas are. A beach town like Avalon or some of the places posted in this thread that are in the Midwest would be ideal for the stock gearing of this rig. I wanted to see how this thing does on hills here, with the smaller cog (my street along along changes in elevation a few hundred feet with every quarter mile) to fill people in who also live in the mountains. Once again bike is heavy, but feels stable. And its cheap fun so far.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

​My dolomite almost done quite a bit more done since these pics I'm waiting on my turbine cranks...


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

How much do you have invested so far?


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

To much after the cranks around 12-1300. Everything is new except forks and frame


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Lol damn


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Ha never expected to go this far... Kind of just happened


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## Kafkaesque (Oct 22, 2014)

FYI for anyone who covets a second Dolomite wheel set from Mongoose for running BOA-G's, etc (might be better off to just buy another Dolomite, but at least you know they are available):


Mongoose Customer Support (Mongoose) 
Oct 30 09:08 
If you would like to purchase a separate set of rims for your Dolomite, you may do so by calling 800-626-2811. The front rim is $75.00 and the rear rim is $80.00 plus shipping and sales tax.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Pacific Cycles (the parent company, that fulfills warranties) has been really good to people so far from what I have read, and seen. I needed one part replaced and after an email on a Sunday night, the part was delivered to VT by Wednesday at no charge. Wouldn't be honest to tell them your wheels are defective, but I have heard that they go as far as to send a whole second bike to people if anything on a large scale is defective with the original purchase.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Got it back today. got to ride it home a few miles from my LBS. Can't wait to put a few more miles on her


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

PROJECT-BEAST said:


> Got it back today. got to ride it home a few miles from my LBS. Can't wait to put a few more miles on her


And now that you have spent a lot of money on it you are going to see a new Surly Mukluk and say "I want a new frame..." 
The Dolomite is not a quality frame and in my opinion is pointless to spend any money upgrading. But, it's your money, not mine.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Have you actually had one apart? Or had problems with one? I sandblasted this frame myself before powder coating and welds and frame seemed solid... I was actually semi impressed. I've seen and rode others but I have something that no one else has not something you can ride off show room floor. Until it breaks or causes me any problems I'm fine and happy with this bike it rides great, looks great and does what I needed it to do. Also if in the future I want to upgrade the frame I can and put all my parts off this on that and put the dolo back to factory. But yes it is my money and I appreciate your input.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Steel is the easiest thing to weld. I've seen more high priced aluminum frames break at the chainstay and head tube than I've seen cheap steel frames break anywhere. Come to think of it I've never seen a steel frame break except back in my bmx days, but when you're slamming your bike into rails and stuff that's kinda expected.


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## Tjay (Oct 17, 2006)

Nice build! What's the weight now?



PROJECT-BEAST said:


> Got it back today. got to ride it home a few miles from my LBS. Can't wait to put a few more miles on her


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

I haven't had a chance to weigh the whole thing yet, but I shaved almost 20 LBS with just the wheelset ha


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

That's a lot of rimstrip sticking out. What pressure are you riding? I'd be reluctant to have that much "bulge" in the tube.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Kafkaesque said:


> FYI for anyone who covets a second Dolomite wheel set from Mongoose for running BOA-G's, etc (might be better off to just buy another Dolomite, but at least you know they are available):
> 
> Mongoose Customer Support (Mongoose)
> Oct 30 09:08
> If you would like to purchase a separate set of rims for your Dolomite, you may do so by calling 800-626-2811. The front rim is $75.00 and the rear rim is $80.00 plus shipping and sales tax.


I think I'm going to have to call this number to see how much a beast bottom bracket axle costs, and if they have the width. The dolo is 189mm wide. If the beast is closer to 175, it'll narrow the pedals, and align aftermarket crankset's chainline a bit better. Also wouldn't hurt to have a spare axle for my I break something.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Ya I'm not sure the LBS filled them. I realized when i got home I had nothing to check my presta valves with. I plan on running 15-20 daily for my in town commute


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Watts888 you want the spindle for the crank? I have the factory one I'd sell cheap.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If you've done bottom bracket upgrades that work, please post what you did here. this thread is huge and full of information. Just trying to consolidate some of it, especially what's worked.

http://forums.mtbr.com/mongoose-schwinn/mongoose-dolomite-bottom-brackets-937782.html#post11558792


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

PROJECT-BEAST said:


> Ha never expected to go this far... Kind of just happened


Now.. if you were sitting here today without a bike and $1,300 cash - would you go the same route you did with the dolomite or just buy a pre-made bike?

Point I'm trying to learn is did you enjoy how you got here to a $1,300 bike or would you have rather just got it flat bam on the spot?


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

I would definitely go the same route I went. Not necessarily a dolomite but build frame up because the finished product is mine. I more than once almost bought a fat bike from the store. I looked at konas, Surlys, [email protected], etc and was never quite sold enough to pull the trigger. That's why I originally bought the dolo to see if I even wanted to go the fat bike route. About 20 miles in I'm extremely happy


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Not gonna lie there were times that were super frustrating trying to find parts that would fit or making them fit. But all in all was a good experience. And if you need to find a part that will fit I can tell you now ha. Next up is the MRP snowpack fork


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

The Dolo has been fun to build, but I now lust for a front suspension fat bike


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Good to hear. A man can do whatever he wants with his cash flow. But I’m just excited to see you enjoyed it the way you did. I respect that fully!

I ride both my Beast & Dolomite often. However, only around my neighborhood. I do want to get onto some trails and back woods to enjoy it. 

Same for me..the walmart hogs were an entry point for me to see if I’d like em and how much I’d use them! While I’ll keep them, I will be keeping my eyes open for a big brand bike.. Fat tire bikes are simply just too cool to NOT ride!


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Has anyone had luck with just upgrading the disc brake pads on the Dolomite? I've given the stocks about a month to break in and they are not the greatest. Before I order the BB7's I figured I would see if anyone had any success with just new pads.

Also , started tinkering with things again.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

I did new pads calipers and rotors, didn't want to mess with the factory. My rotor had a bend from factory


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I wouldn't bother with the pads. Seems like a waste of money. The bb7s offer unlimited adjustability and stopping power. Dumping good money into a bad brake setup is just a waste.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

*Huffy Excess*

After dropping my wife's car to get serviced in Tallahassee I rode my bike about a mile to some trails. On the way I ran into a bunch of FAT at Academy Sports. There was a couple of Dolemites, Beast, & Massifs. One bike that caught my attention was this Huffy Excess. V-brakes on the rear but with disc mount. $299.




I like the low stand over and aluminum frame....may grab it for my wife.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Did you pick it up to get an idea of the Weight?


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

That looks exactly like the dk duke


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

blown240 said:


> Did you pick it up to get an idea of the Weight?


I didn't really attempt to pick it up knowing what them tires & tubes weigh. I have to go back down tomorrow and will take my scale.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

Kafkaesque said:


> FYI for anyone who covets a second Dolomite wheel set from Mongoose for running BOA-G's, etc (might be better off to just buy another Dolomite, but at least you know they are available):
> 
> Mongoose Customer Support (Mongoose)
> Oct 30 09:08
> If you would like to purchase a separate set of rims for your Dolomite, you may do so by calling 800-626-2811. The front rim is $75.00 and the rear rim is $80.00 plus shipping and sales tax.


i'm seeing this just getting off work (around 1am) so i mean to call in the morning. but if you or someones sees this before i get to call, do you need a number off the frame? i emailed pacific maybe a month or so ago and was told i need a model number and production date off the frame to buy the wheel.

since i started with a beast i don't have the numbers. i'm wondering if something's changed or if i'll need those numbers.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Haro Front Fork?


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

*Huffy Excess*

Weight 48lbs, bottom bracket shell width 73mm, rear drops 197mm est.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thats a BB spindle I would like to get my hands on!


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

Tunalic said:


> Weight 48lbs, bottom bracket shell width 73mm, rear drops 197mm est.


That bike isn't worth it in my opinion. It is very heavy, and has really bad component spec. Especially the rear rim brake is something that I would not want on a fatbike.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

see the frame has the caliper brakes on the rear, wonder if the hub has the mounting for the disk rotor, just not being used/installed


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

blown240 said:


> Thats a BB spindle I would like to get my hands on!


It won't fit on the dolomite as it needs a 100mm BB

sent from my back yard


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

mr pinga said:


> It won't fit on the dolomite as it needs a 100mm BB
> 
> sent from my back yard


That a true, but it would fit in a 73mm full suspension frame. Then just widen the rear for a fs fatty!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CannondaleF9 said:


> That bike isn't worth it in my opinion. It is very heavy, and has really bad component spec. Especially the rear rim brake is something that I would not want on a fatbike.


As someone said about that in the DK Duke branding...


NateHawk said:


> ... Rear vee brakes? On a fat bike? Without machined sidewalls on the rims? Talk about $hit brake performance...


That rear brake would be a deal breaker for me.

And is it just me, or does that geometry look like six or seven inches of trail?


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## Krazyk (Nov 13, 2014)

My Dolo with some mods done-

Elixir 7 brakes - 180mm front, 160mm rear
Shimano 7 spd shifter
Bmx cruiser bars
Odi Rogue grips
Take off pedals from my DH bike
And yes..... The pegs


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

I believe that fork says Hard, not Haro. Same as the DK Duke. I wonder if the DK Duke is 73mm BB as well? A fat bike that can use the BBSO2 mid drive!


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

I know of another bike that came at almost that weight and didn't have very good components. A lot of us own it


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

I think the bike has a 200 lb weight limit though


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Just bought mine right now at Costco Canada (http://www.costco.ca/.product.387644.html) @ CAD $259.99 + $13.00 (taxes).

Let's see how a 6.2 person will ride on it...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> Just bought mine right now at Costco Canada (http://www.costco.ca/.product.387644.html) @ CAD $259.99 + $13.00 (taxes).
> Let's see how a 6.2 person will ride on it...


Hey, they're back!
(no longer available for a while)

And let us know if it comes with the original ribbed tires or with the newer knobby tires like their ad says.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

virtu said:


> Let's see how a 6.2 person will ride on it...


I'm 6'4" with a 34" inseam, and a 400mm post is at the edge of comfort at the posts minimum insertion depth. If you can find one, get a 450mm post. If you just ride gravel or smoother, amazon has a 100mm rise avenir handle bar for $12.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Had my dolo weighed at my LBS yesterday I'm down to 36 lbs and still have heavy tubes


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

PROJECT-BEAST said:


> Had my dolo weighed at my LBS yesterday I'm down to 36 lbs and still have heavy tubes


How much weight did you save on just the wheels?


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

watts888 said:


> I'm 6'4" with a 34" inseam, and a 400mm post is at the edge of comfort at the posts minimum insertion depth. If you can find one, get a 450mm post. If you just ride gravel or smoother, amazon has a 100mm rise avenir handle bar for $12.


What you think about this seatpost: Aluminum MTB Bike Bicycle Seatpost 25 4 27 2 28 6 30 8 31 6x300 350 400 450mm | eBay ?
Version [email protected]?


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

I think around 12 ish maybe a little more


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Canoe said:


> Hey, they're back!
> (no longer available for a while)
> 
> And let us know if it comes with the original ribbed tires or with the newer knobby tires like their ad says.


It will take at least 2 or 3 weeks to receive  but as soon as I open the box I am going to take pictures about the bike and the tires to post over here.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

PROJECT-BEAST said:


> I think around 12 ish maybe a little more


Not wheels and tires, just wheels. Unless there is 12lbs to be saved in those aluminum rims


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

virtu said:


> What you think about this seatpost: Aluminum MTB Bike Bicycle Seatpost 25 4 27 2 28 6 30 8 31 6x300 350 400 450mm | eBay ?
> Version [email protected]?


That post should be fine. It won't be super light, but probably still lighter than stock. Plus 450 is a nice length!


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

blown240 said:


> That post should be fine. It won't be super light, but probably still lighter than stock. Plus 450 is a nice length!


Thanks, just bought it 

Now have to decide which kind of flat pedals (to be used on snow conditions) and wait the bike arrived


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

I'm pretty sure it was 12 without tires


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

virtu said:


> Thanks, just bought it
> 
> Now have to decide which kind of flat pedals (to be used on snow conditions) and wait the bike arrived


I recommend plastic bmx pedals from any reputable brand... You don't have to spend crazy money. Metal flats are nice, until you slip and lose your skin.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

For whom painted the rims.

Do you removed the red color or do you simply apply the new paint on top of it?
I am thinking to paint with a flat black, but first I'd like to receive some tips how to do that.

If you removed the paint, what kind of product did you used?

Thanks for any help.

Edit: probably I will use Plastdip or Flexdip directly on the top of the original paint. Will use painters tape to protect the parts that I do not want to paint and apply the spray all over the rim, but the bike still not even shipped yet


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Looks like there will be better tires for the massif/compac bikes

Specialized Launches 20? & 24? Kid?s Fatbikes With Lots Of Color Options


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Bike shipped, ETA from UPS to 11/26 
Now, let's wait!!!


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Those specialised bikes look pretty cool.. I wish I was a kid again. Or really really short lol


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> ... I am thinking to paint with a flat black, but first I'd like to receive some tips how to do that. If you removed the paint, what kind of product did you used?


for diy painting of bikes, rims, etc., search the forums over at

www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I was thinking of spray painting my Dolomite in some “Hammered metal” type paint. Interesting colors and a unique texture. 

Next on my list is fender for the front. I’d like to ride my Dolomite in the rain


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

Has anyone successfully gone tubeless with their dolomite rims? What methods work? I'm running Surly Lou tires and the beads don't stay seated when I let the air out so I cant see how tubeless is going to work with them.

Just add more stans right?

*Update*: during my efforts to go tubeless on the rear, the surly Lou has stretched out a bit and is now rubbing on the chain stays. I imagine the front will eventually stretch out too and start rubbing the steerer tube. So in conclusion, the surly Lous won't fit on the dolomite .


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

j.rex said:


> ... I'm running Surly Lou tires and the beads don't stay seated when I let the air out so I cant see how tubeless is going to work with them.
> Just add more stans right?


I haven't done it yet, but I've researched it. A lot. 
Sometimes the bead diameter is too large for the rim diameter and you can't get a good seal - period. One solution is more tape wrapped around the rim, to make the effective rim diameter larger. Another, is to put foam (like sill plate gasket) on top of the sealing tape, then more tape on top of the foam; this sometimes fails in time as the foam compresses. Another way, and seems to be the most problem free, is to use split-tube tubeless, as the 24" split tube increases the effective rim diameter, making for a good fit; some tire/rim combinations need thick 'downhill' tubes for their extra thickness. Another way to increase the effective rim diameter is to put a narrow strip of tape onto the rim where the bead will seat, then put your sealing tape or split-tube over that.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

p.s.
A narrow strip of thick tape on the rim slightly inboard of where the bead sits may help keep your Lou sitting where it should. Cheap to test.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Sloppy slushy day in Vermont*

Floaters were fun, weather was really warm up here for late November!


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Got my Ironhorse Dolomite from costco.ca
Front brake was inoperable, scratched fork. So far I've switched out the saddle and put in Surly light tubes and Surly Larry 3.8's. Wow, what a difference good tires make! Feels like a different bike. Next is hydro brakes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Magnuts said:


> Got my Ironhorse Dolomite from costco.ca
> Front brake was inoperable, scratched fork. So far I've switched out the saddle and put in Surly light tubes and Surly Larry 3.8's. Wow, what a difference good tires make! Feels like a different bike. Next is hydro brakes.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine is supposed to arrive tomorrow in Alberta 
Can you upload a picture with a higher resolution?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

virtu said:


> For whom painted the rims.
> 
> Do you removed the red color or do you simply apply the new paint on top of it?
> I am thinking to paint with a flat black, but first I'd like to receive some tips how to do that.
> ...


I wanted something besides the bright red, and granted the paint is on there very nice and super thick. But I didnt want to paint over it and have the color chip from stones on the trail and scratches from under the paint revealing the old red color. Powder coating would have required disassembling the whole wheel, which I was not up for and would have cost a few bucks, maybe a couple hundred.

So I just stripped them with Aircraft Stripper, under the advise of one of the guys on the FB page. No its just aluminum, so nothing to see under if it chips. I didn't clear coat over it cause aluminum doesn't rust. So before tires I have about $10 into the cost of my wheelset and way too many hours stripping/drilling/and deburring.


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## Krazyk (Nov 13, 2014)

Hydro brakes make a BIG difference... almost crashed riding a wheelie since I was not used to the brakes actually grabbing. They will lock up the big meats. I found a set of brand new take offs with rotors and all the hardware off of PB for $50 + shipping. You may want to start there.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... its just aluminum,... I didn't clear coat over it cause aluminum doesn't rust...


The aluminum surface will oxidize, forming a protective layer that prevents further oxidization.

Except for those of us where they salt the roads in winter: the salt can corrode the aluminum away, so we need something to protect it, be it your choice of: clear-coat, powder-coat, paint, possibly a drying oil (linseed, Penetrol, etc.), or a wax on top or just a wax. If you're around salt, expect to need something. 
Which is why anodized is so popular. And even then, sometimes that surface benefits from sealing with a wax.

And often on less expensive bikes, you need a wax over paint, to seal any micro pores in its inexpensive paint job.

Also aggravated by salt, one might have an issue between the spoke nipples and bare aluminum rims, so watch there to see if you need to seal with wax. If you're redoing a wheel, anodized nipples are relatively cheap.


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Virtu, I'm in Alberta too, calgary. What do you want a picture of? The bike as a whole or anything in particular?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Magnuts said:


> Virtu, I'm in Alberta too, calgary. What do you want a picture of? The bike as a whole or anything in particular?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am in Red Deer and my bike is supposed to arrive tomorrow. If you do not mind, I just want a picture of the whole bike and the original tires.


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

The originals next to a 3.7 Surly Endomorph


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Magnuts said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks a lot 

It seems that the Ironhorse version comes with the old model of tires.


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

Well I got 1 tire to hold air without a tube, 2 layers of foam, a bunch of tape, and plenty of stans. I'm not real confident with it yet, gonna try some other stuff and then maybe I'll post some pictures.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

That's it 
Ironhorse Dolomite (Canadian version) bought at Costco.ca for $259.99



Later I will post my first impressions, but my rear brake is not adjusted yet and everything else working fine.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Link?

I have a costco membership as well.. be intrigued to know if it’s avail in the USA. My girl works at costco so may be able to snag a deal upon a deal


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ImaBum said:


> Link?
> 
> I have a costco membership as well.. be intrigued to know if it's avail in the USA. My girl works at costco so may be able to snag a deal upon a deal


Costco is out of stock again (two times in a week), but the link is: http://www.costco.ca/Ironhorse®-Dolimite-Fat-Tire-Beach-Cruiser	.product.100106109.html

Or, try to find by Ironhorse Dolomite.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I tried searching for it, no luck.

I also clicked your link, no luck.

I’m in USA so the market will vary compared to you cooler folk up north..


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## Krazyk (Nov 13, 2014)

ImaBum said:


> I tried searching for it, no luck.
> 
> I also clicked your link, no luck.
> 
> I'm in USA so the market will vary compared to you cooler folk up north..


They have it on the walmart website in the US as the mongoose dolomite. For $249. It where I purchased mine- had shipped it to the closest walmart store


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Just added a race face stem, MEC bars and a tektro front hydraulic brake. Heading out into the snow for a ride now









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Canoe said:


> The aluminum surface will oxidize, forming a protective layer that prevents further oxidization.
> 
> Except for those of us where they salt the roads in winter: the salt can corrode the aluminum away, so we need something to protect it, be it your choice of: clear-coat, powder-coat, paint, possibly a drying oil (linseed, Penetrol, etc.), or a wax on top or just a wax. If you're around salt, expect to need something.
> Which is why anodized is so popular. And even then, sometimes that surface benefits from sealing with a wax.
> ...


Good points for those using this thing on the road. I will specifically be sticking to off road/snowmobile trails with this bike. Also waxing the frame is a little too much for me. I'll just keep wrapping more parts in electrical tape.

I stripped my wheels on the 3 series a few winters ago and didn't re-clear them, I think its been 4 years and they are still nice. Every summer I hit them up with a buffing of turtle wax, and a rag(the only thing turtle wax seems to be good for, polishing aluminum)

first done









This summer










6" of snow this evening in VT, my first few impressions of this bike are so much different than when I first rode it. The bike feels so light compared to riding on hardpack trails, I was actually ridin the other day thinking"I wish this bike was a few more pounds to get me some more grip"

Cant wait to test it out more tomorrow in the 12'' or so that we will get overnight.


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

More pictures, from the moment that I got the box at home to the moment that I was almost finished to assemble it.

  

  

*First impressions:*
01. Headset or something on the stem/headset/nut/fork is making turning the handlebar left or right very tight. I just took off the headset and lube it, but I do not know if is going to work, but that's ok to ride in this conditions.

02. Rear hub is not in the best lube, you can feel it when spin the pedals backwards, there are something that can be improved on this part, but, again, it is ok to ride in this conditions.

03. Derailleur came already very well adjusted from factory.

04. Seatpost for a 6.2 feet person is ok, but for a better experience and better fit a 400mm will be perfect.

05. The group of components bottom bracket and its bearing, freewheel and its bearing, rear hub and its bearing can be improved too (just like item 02), and probably the bike will ride better after this.

06. Brakes is the bottom part of the whole bike, and every time that I removed the wheel, after I put it back I had to adjust the caliper to avoid rust the disc =/, but, for a $250 bike it is ok.

07. Like Yoda speaking, interest will be to have a 32t or 28t cog in the crankset.

*First conclusions:*
This is not a user-friendly bike, the user must have some basic bike mechanic skills and the will to learn more.

So, beginners will need help to adjust this bike up to the moment that they will learn how to do by their own, all other riders will be happy with this bike with their expectation are not too high.

Besides that, I really enjoy this bike, and I am sure that after little upgrades or work on actual components (just like every user did here, lube-lube-and-lube all moving parts), this bike is a bargain at $250.

Thanks and sorry for any mistake in my simple english.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

Krazyk said:


> They have it on the walmart website in the US as the mongoose dolomite. For $249. It where I purchased mine- had shipped it to the closest walmart store


Oh I already have one. And a Beast. I'd be interested in getting one from Costco given their lifetime refund policy..

I got my Dolomite for $225 in store (stock) when they had em listed for the $250 from the previous $350 a few weeks prior.

One hell of a bike for $225!


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Having to reset the caliper is pretty normal. What I do is, use a marker to mark the nut on the hubs axle on a mark on the frame so when I put the wheel back on its in the same place so it won't rub.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> Having to reset the caliper is pretty normal. What I do is, use a marker to mark the nut on the hubs axle on a mark on the frame so when I put the wheel back on its in the same place so it won't rub.


If you do not mind, can you take a picture of it?

And, definitely have something wrong with my headset. Next time I will take everything off, clean, lube and put together, it it does not work, I will need to spend a few bucks in a new headset.

Components that I already bought but did not arrive yet:
a. 28.6/450mm seatpost (~ $12.00);
b. 670mm carbon handlebar 31.8, but will install only next year (~ $20.00 after paypal coupon).

*Total spent of CAD $304.99 (USD 270.82)*
Ironhorse Dolomite $272.99 (after tax)
Seatpost $12.00
Carbon Handlebar $20.00

Components that I am willing to buy:
c. New Headset (if needed);
d. New Stem (probably between 90mm to 100mm);
e. New Grips (if the stock ones will not fit on the new handlebar);
f. Fixed Seat clamp 31.8

Also, some tools I will need:
g. Freewheel remover;
h. 17' wrench or adjustable wrench (to use to clean and lube the hubs).


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Are you over tightening the headset? I can take a pic of what I'm talking about tomorrow


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> Are you over tightening the headset? I can take a pic of what I'm talking about tomorrow


I have to check that, tomorrow I am going to loose the top bolt (cap bolt) and check what happen.

Thanks.

Edit: just did that, loose and tight enough just to hold down the cap, now it seems better, and I believe that after I remove everything, clean, and lube, can be even better. Thanks for the tip.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

The top cap should be snug. Hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth and when there's no play it's right enough.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

This seatclamp will fit at Dolomite (31.8mm version)?
Brand-X Seat Clamp & Bolt 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

*Total spent of C$395.46 (USD 347.36)*
Ironhorse Dolomite C$272.99 (after tax)
Generic 28.6 450mm Seatpost C$12.00
Race Face Carbon Handlebar 31.8mm 670mm C$20.00 (after coupom)
Gusset Clench Seat Clamp White, 31.8mm C$10.99*
Clarks Exo Skeletal Hydraulic Disc Brake White, 160mm, Pair - Left Hand Front/Right Hand Rear C$55.99*
Crank Brothers Cobalt 2 Stem Black - Silver, 90mm, 31.8mm, 1.1/8" C$23.49*
*probably I am going to receive 5% cash back, if that happens, the total cost will decrease C$4.52.

Also, I bought a generic shimano freewheel remover (New Cassette Freewheel Remover Removal Repair Tool CY5P for Bike Bicycle Shimano | eBay), and if it works, that would be nice, because it costs only C$2.20

So, for USD 348 a fat bike, with carbon handlebar and hydraulic disc brake, I think that is a nice value for a simple steel fat bike.

Another thing that I was talking with some friends, besides the frame be 18', the ride position for a 6.2 feet (190cm) is very ok for up to 20km ride. Above that, for example 40km, a large seatpost (350mm or 400mm) will become a good investment.

In my honest opinion, the Ironhorse Dolomite and its sister from Mongoose is a very nice fat bike for the value, and with a brake upgrade it can be even better, because the brake that came with the bike is not the best one for 190lbs (+/- 90kg) person.

The brake was the only component that I really did not liked on that bike, probably if changed only the brake levers and lube the cables it can get a little better, but I had a chance to buy a simple set of hydraulic disc brakes and that was a good deal.

One last thing, besides the lack of upgrade on the freewheel, the one that came in stock is good for the kind of terrain that I ride (flat and some little uphills), but with time we can get used with the gear ratio, by the way, we are bikers


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Here is the most current iteration of my dolomite. Still need to upgrade brakes. So far I am under $200 in upgrades even counting the fork and tires. Still have to drill the rear wheel upgrade brakes and change the cranks and bb. After all of that I will still be sub $300 for upgrades.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Bike looks good, what fork did you go with?


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

White Bros snowpack


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Where did you get the fork so cheap? I have been looking they are around 300+ for a new one


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Fatbikes.Com garage sale for $100 last weekend.

They had around 10 nib.

in the closeout section of their website they are $250.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Nice great buy


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Thanks for letting us know haha


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

My bad, how fast could you have made it to Anchorage?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I do remember someone on one of the boards posted up that sale on fatbikes.com. I got to do a few more hours of snow riding this Holiday weekend, I was really happy with how the bike/tires performed


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I've got a friend out there actually lol


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

The deals they had were awesome a guy walked out with a new xl moonlander frameset for $225. 9zero7 carbon forks for $150. 9zero7 small frame $450. $200 wheelsets. I got there 5 minutes after they opened and stuff was moving out the door. They were talking about making it an annual deal.

They didn't prepublish prices before hand so I didn't know what to expect.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

So we made it up to Malta, NY right near the race track in Saratoga. Home for the holiday so I figured i'd load up the bikes and hit up the trails with friends. Anyone in the Capital region of NY should have a fat biking blast at this spot. I could barely walk some of the spots on the trail they were so slippery, but the bike didn't miss a beat!


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

i don't know if it's just a cyber monday thing, or it will last a while, but they're $199 right now on walmart.com.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

philphine said:


> i don't know if it's just a cyber monday thing, or it will last a while, but they're $199 right now on walmart.com.


Is a great deal.plus shipping is free to my home.....I am going to buy one right now...what the hell..$200..it will be a good starter for me..if i enjoy it I will up grade to a more higher end model...thanks walmart...

I KNOW IT WAS $249.00 YESTERDAY..I THINK IT IS ONLY FOR CYBER MONDAY..


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

yeah, i've been checking the site everyday because they did similar with the beast last year (they're on sale too, $159). plus i have a gift card my job gave me, so it's $170 total for me.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Hey guys,

Need some help and suggestion to replace the chainring for a smaller one. I'd like something between 24t to 30t on the front, but right now I have no idea what to do.

Bottom bracket, chainrings and crankset I do not have too much experience, so it's a brand new field that I want to learn a little bit more.

So, if you have any suggestion in which chainring to use, be my guest 

Tks.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

There is a lot of info in this thread about crank swaps. But basically just get a cheap MTB crankset that uses a square taper bottom bracket. You should be able to get one for less that $40.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)




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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

virtu said:


> Hey guys,
> So, if you have any suggestion in which chainring to use, be my guest
> 
> Tks.


Amazon.com : Vuelta MTB Comp Crankset : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Just grab the chain with your hands and move it to the gear you want. 22 for trail, 32 for road. This one allows you to swap chainrings if you want and find a cheap 26T. Only tool you'll need is a crank-arm puller. $8-15 or get one in a $50 bike tool kit.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I agree with above, I'm using the shimano atlas Amazon.com : Shimano Altus 28x38x48t 7/8spd 170mm Square w/ Guard : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

same concept, not front derailer. This weekend I might try and remove the 42t for a tad bid of weight savings and inconvenience factor.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Between those 2 crank sets, the Vuelta is a better deal. It has bolt on rings, instead of pinned, and a better gear range. Plus it's less money.

The Altus may be more of a hybrid bike setup since its a 28-38-48.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sorry! I linked the wrong one I went 22/32/42
Amazon.com : Shimano FC-M311-L Alivio/Acera/Altus Chain Wheel Set (Black) : Cycling Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

But the above post is correct, these are pinned sprockets and not easily removable, so thats gonna be a pain in the butt this weekend.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Stupid Rotor Bolts*

So last week I ordered a new set of brakes to install for trail use. They were suggested by a member on another forum and have great stopping power. Problem is that those rotor bolts gave me the same hard time that everyone else ran into with them. After I figured out how to remove one of the bolts easily with this procedure the rest of them came right off, I'd say 5minutes per hub. Either way here is the trick

You need a rotary too with cut off wheel
A drill with a small bit
Flat head screwdriver

So remove the wheel cut a straight line down the head of the bolt in the center with your cut off tool.









Make sure its a deep enough line for the screwdriver to get some torque. I went too shallow on one cut and the head just peeled when I turned the screwdriver on it.










Then I drilled a really small hole in the center of the bolt to take its strength away.










Turn bolts to the left with so much ease, 









Clean off the shavings and install a new rotor,









One person on the Facebook group asked "What should I be able to do with this bike if I'm not mechanically inclined" I think the answer to that is don't but this model bike. I love working on things so this bike is a fun project for me, and a cheap amount for the fun. But if you dont have any tools and you don't have the patience to learn repair, this thing will drive you nuts!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

for some good $35 fat bike tires (not so good in the snow or mud, but good reviews on dry stuff) vee tire co has the vee mission and V8 120tpi tires on sale for $35 each. not real aggressive tread, but a heck of a lot lighter than stock tires. I rode a specialized fatboy with their 4.7" ground control tires, and I was amazed by how much better the lighter tire steered. Bought a mission yesterday, they shipped today. I think theyre getting rid of old stock because people aren't buying them at retail price. For $35, at least get one for up front to help with steering. 
Mission


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

[SUP][/SUP]

Not the best camera, but at least it worked: (1080p available)


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## Woodsy11 (Dec 30, 2010)

Hey guys , I recently ordered my Dolomite from Walmart.com on cyber monday and they gave me a delivery date of Fri. 12/5. Today I got the news that it was "delayed" with no updated delivery date. I know from reading it's not uncommon for these bikes to get back ordered. I was really looking forward to puting it together and getting riding. i was wondering what type of delay others have experienced ,because I'm a little bummed and could use a little hope .


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

*Got Mine..??*



Woodsy11 said:


> Hey guys , I recently ordered my Dolomite from Walmart.com on cyber monday and they gave me a delivery date of Fri. 12/5. Today I got the news that it was "delayed" with no updated delivery date. I know from reading it's not uncommon for these bikes to get back ordered. I was really looking forward to puting it together and getting riding. i was wondering what type of delay others have experienced ,because I'm a little bummed and could use a little hope .


I ordered my Dolomite on the 1st and it came today...I never got any information on the shipping noticed....so I was surprised I got it 4 days after I ordered it..I live in northern Maine..I would check with them with an email..you can email them through your order form..go to your Walmart account to find it..I did email them on the 2nd and they told me that I would get a shipping invoice giving me the shipping date...I never got one..but the bike came today..The bike is still listed so I'm not sure why you got a shipping delay..I would email them..they might give you some more info on it..They are busy right now, so that might be your issue. The bike looks great..boxed up nice and everything looked great..the pedesl suck so I am buying some red ones which are wider. Overall the bike looks great for $204.00 shipped to your house!!...Since I did not spend a fortune on this bike i can buy some upgrades for it...pedals, seat, lights...etc..Good luck with your Dolomite..it will be at your door soon!!


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## Woodsy11 (Dec 30, 2010)

Thanks 06BR , I have boxes of upgrades waiting !!! And your transaction sounds not too bad . I can't wait to build this thing !!!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

A buck 99 is too good to pass up, just pulled the trigger on one of these monsters.

*Edit, ordered that cheap 450mm post from a few pages back, too. Seems like a good bet for a tall guy on a one-size-fits-all rig.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

carbuncle said:


> A buck 99 is too good to pass up, just pulled the trigger on one of these monsters.
> 
> *Edit, ordered that cheap 450mm post from a few pages back, too. Seems like a good bet for a tall guy on a one-size-fits-all rig.


I did it to. waiting for it to come in. I've been using a 27.2 post with a shim, and even at 400mm, it was still just a bit too short. that extra 2 inches should make a huge difference.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

carbuncle said:


> A buck 99 is too good to pass up, just pulled the trigger on one of these monsters.
> 
> *Edit, ordered that cheap 450mm post from a few pages back, too. Seems like a good bet for a tall guy on a one-size-fits-all rig.


I bought that too and received yesterday... one of the best upgrade that I did in my opinion.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

i ordered cyber monday (they're still $199), and i got the notice that it's at the store now. i also ordered the rear wheel from pacific a while back and git it yesterday.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

06bigruckus said:


> I ordered my Dolomite on the 1st and it came today...I never got any information on the shipping noticed....so I was surprised I got it 4 days after I ordered it..I live in northern Maine..I would check with them with an email..you can email them through your order form..go to your Walmart account to find it..I did email them on the 2nd and they told me that I would get a shipping invoice giving me the shipping date...I never got one..but the bike came today..The bike is still listed so I'm not sure why you got a shipping delay..I would email them..they might give you some more info on it..They are busy right now, so that might be your issue. The bike looks great..boxed up nice and everything looked great..the pedesl suck so I am buying some red ones which are wider. Overall the bike looks great for $204.00 shipped to your house!!...Since I did not spend a fortune on this bike i can buy some upgrades for it...pedals, seat, lights...etc..Good luck with your Dolomite..it will be at your door soon!!


I just got a Walmart shipping notice email..they informed me that my bike was shipped and it would be here on the 8th...FUNNY THING... I GOT IT YESTERDAY...sounds like Walmart has some issues with FedeX...thought I would let others know about it..oh ya it's 3am in the morning here in COLD Maine...10 degrees out!!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

virtu said:


> I bought that too and received yesterday... one of the best upgrade that I did in my opinion.


Great, thanks for the feedback!


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

Couldn't pass up for 199..and already had 200 in giftcards so even better!

My main concern with this bike is weight. How can I get this bike to around 35lbs for under $200..or is it even possible?

Also, for snow riding, what mods would be required if any (brakes, gears, etc).?


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

It cost me around $1500 to get mine to 35lbs


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

Your most likely need to read through this blog..lots of great info..I have been reading it for several days...I have since purchased 3 items...will need to get several special tools also...good luck..


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

Can someone tell me or copy and paste the tools I need to pull the cranks and the rear gears.. I am new at working on you own bike and I want to get some basic tools that I need..I think the crank puller I need it shown below..just what to make sure..I also plan to change the gearing in the rear...

Amazon.com : Park Tool Compact Crank Puller : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

Rear freewheel remover tool:

Amazon.com : Park FR-1 .2 Shimano UG Cassette/FW Remover : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

I used this for my crank:

Amazon.com : Park Tool Crank Puller for Square Taper Cranks : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

lethalsvt said:


> How can I get this bike to around 35lbs for under $200..or is it even possible?


Start with tires.

Then, buying a drill is probably the only way to get down to 35# for under $200.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

My strategy for this thing is to spend no more than $50 on equipment changes, I have $36 left after the seatpost, and just check out whether I even like fatbiking. I have access to sandy beach riding, snow and XC trails so if it's so awesome that I feel like the bike is holding me back I will save up for different platform. If it's not for me, I'll have a beater cruiser bike to mess around with. Win/win, when the proper number of bikes to own is n +1.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

got it assembled and looking at it (no time to ride and it's raining anyway). for now i have no mod plans. i have a mega range cluster, but i may not bother with it either. i pretty much just grabbed it while the price was good. the beast is my main fat bike project still, so this will just be an alt cruiser for now.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

For $150(tires and tubes) you shave 9lbs off the stock weight of the bike. Another 1-1.5 pounds if you drill both wheels depending on the size of the hole you use. After some brakes and a smaller gear up front I'm $200 into the bike at about 40lbs. I think its going to cost a good amount more to get that next 5 or so pounds off and thats kinda the tipping point with this bike, how much is it worth to get it to "normal fat weight".

Either way, with a 22-24t cog up front this thing moves well in the snow, and new tires make a whole world of difference. Most any fatbike is not going to come with great snow tires to start out with so I dont even really consider the tire price an "upgrade" to get the Dolo on par with the BD bikes seeing as the all come with 3''72TPI tires stock.


If anyone has any eureka moment that leads to shaving off any additional weight I'm up for hearing it!


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## 20sMotoSpirit (Dec 9, 2009)

I just bought two of these for 199.99 (Post Black Friday Sale)
These are almost the most perfect Cabin bikes, and that is exactly where these two are going to live from now on.
In the storage shed at the Cabin. Why are they perfect?

1.) One size fits all! Kids to Adults!
2.) Fat tire in the woods for trails - what could be better.....woods in snow!
3.) They are cheap enough to be stolen and not really worry about it.
4.) They have cheap enough components, that they will work for a period of time - and you can repair them with simple tools.
5.) When you can buy 2 for the price of 1 cheap Trek Mountain bike and have the ability to run out with friends in the cold - it really does work!



Canoe said:


> Front brake started dragging. It was a quick adjustment to the caliper.
> Front & rear discs are labeled 160 mm.
> 
> View attachment 876131
> ...


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

momikey said:


> For $150(tires and tubes) you shave 9lbs off the stock weight of the bike. Another 1-1.5 pounds if you drill both wheels depending on the size of the hole you use. After some brakes and a smaller gear up front I'm $200 into the bike at about 40lbs. I think its going to cost a good amount more to get that next 5 or so pounds off and thats kinda the tipping point with this bike, how much is it worth to get it to "normal fat weight".
> 
> Either way, with a 22-24t cog up front this thing moves well in the snow, and new tires make a whole world of difference. Most any fatbike is not going to come with great snow tires to start out with so I dont even really consider the tire price an "upgrade" to get the Dolo on par with the BD bikes seeing as the all come with 3''72TPI tires stock.
> 
> If anyone has any eureka moment that leads to shaving off any additional weight I'm up for hearing it!


Very helpful thanks!

Do you have a link or place where I can purchase tubes/tires that shave off that much weight as well as perform better in snow? Also a link or place to get the 22-24t cog would be helpful.

I've never worked on a bike but I'm pretty good with tools and cars, so I'm gonna use this as a project. But definitely just the basics first to get out and enjoy the snow.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## lethalsvt (Nov 21, 2012)

06bigruckus said:


> Your most likely need to read through this blog..lots of great info..I have been reading it for several days...I have since purchased 3 items...will need to get several special tools also...good luck..


What did you purchase?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

lethalsvt said:


> Very helpful thanks!
> 
> Do you have a link or place where I can purchase tubes/tires that shave off that much weight as well as perform better in snow? Also a link or place to get the 22-24t cog would be helpful.
> 
> ...


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

momikey said:


> For $150(tires and tubes) you shave 9lbs off the stock weight of the bike. Another 1-1.5 pounds if you drill both wheels depending on the size of the hole you use. After some brakes and a smaller gear up front I'm $200 into the bike at about 40lbs. I think its going to cost a good amount more to get that next 5 or so pounds off and thats kinda the tipping point with this bike, how much is it worth to get it to "normal fat weight".
> 
> Either way, with a 22-24t cog up front this thing moves well in the snow, and new tires make a whole world of difference. Most any fatbike is not going to come with great snow tires to start out with so I dont even really consider the tire price an "upgrade" to get the Dolo on par with the BD bikes seeing as the all come with 3''72TPI tires stock.
> 
> If anyone has any eureka moment that leads to shaving off any additional weight I'm up for hearing it!


Bikes direct bikes don't all come with 3" tires. I think only 2 do, and they aren't really fat bikes. The lurch and Boris and gravity monster and all the rest come with at least 4" tires. And actually, some of them come with the vee snow tires stock.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

lethalsvt said:


> What did you purchase?
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


Wellga red platform pedals, a set of YST Sealed BSA Cupset w/Bearings English Threads
by YST and a Shimano MF-T231 14-34 MEGA Tourney freewheel....I am wondering would the MF-T23 14-34 Megarange fit???? ..found one listed..


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

ou2mame said:


> Bikes direct bikes don't all come with 3" tires. I think only 2 do, and they aren't really fat bikes. The lurch and Boris and gravity monster and all the rest come with at least 4" tires. And actually, some of them come with the vee snow tires stock.


My bad I thought they said 3.8 was the max tire size, maybe it was the stock tire size on the 50mm wheels


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Maybe on one bike, thats more of a mid fat bike, but they are fat bikes with 4+ inch tires, other than the one that you looked at.


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## Natedeezy (Feb 28, 2011)

Ok 199 I'm in, worst case my son has another bike.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Most 4 inch tires are actually 3.8.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

RYNOFREERIDE said:


> Most 4 inch tires are actually 3.8.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Maybe on a 80mm rim but 4" on a 100mm

sent from my back yard


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

No they aren't. I've seen the charts, width depends on rim width and tire model.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Agreed, it is about rim size and tire, I'm just talking about how they are labeled on the tire. My Nates are labeled as 3.8, but I know they vary depending on rim size. The original person questioning it was wondering why many BD bike tires said 3.8 when they are considered 4 inch tires. I gave him the simple answer.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Have you seen the site? They aren't labeled as 3.8


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

The gravity bullseye non monster, 29+, arent 4 inches but the dozen or so models that are fat bikes are labeled as having 4 to 4.8" tires of all different rim widths are tire models from dirt to snow specific treads.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

I've been on the site, but haven't looked that closely. I'll rephrase more precisely what I know. My Surly Nates say 3.8 as the size. This may vary depending on which rim you mount then on. I know nothing about the BD line of bikes. I don't know why the previous poster said all BD sells are 3 inch tires. Sorry I confused everyone.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I'm just trying to clarify because what was said was blatantly untrue.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... 1-1.5 pounds if you drill both wheels depending on the size of the hole you use. ...


 1.5" holes between spokes, with the two each side of the value at 1", and you'll save ~410g, or 0.9 lbs.. I like 1.5" holes as it leaves a good run of metal between the spoke holes on opposing sides.

I question if this is worth it. Doing this mod is an indulgence, not a necessity. So if you don't feel comfortable of your skills, or of the value of the result, don't bother with this. I feel that it's only meaningful value is how cool a coloured or retro-reflective tape showing through the holes will be, with a possible night visibility/visual-signature benefit if you use the retro-reflective.

Note that the holes for the nipples are not necessarily drilled true: the ring of holes on the left side of the rim are often offset slightly from the ring of holes on the right side. (Assuming that yours are not so offset as to weaken the rim if you drill at 1.5") on my Dolo and Beast rims, the place to drill is directly between and inline of two nipple holes. A template that rests against the nipple on either side of where you'll drill makes for quick and reliable marking of this. I printed mine out on card stock.








(You can see the offset with the center of the hole to be drilled not lining up with the center of the other side's nipple/spoke. If drilled lined up with the opposite side spoke, the drilled hole would look "off" relative to the two spokes it is between.)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

When ordering crank-arms, make sure they curve out enough that they'll clear the chain stays..., or you'll end up :madman:


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

In this link: imgur: the simple image sharer
I have more photos of the Dolomite with the 450mm seatpost.

I am 190cm tall (6.1 feet I think so) and with this seatpost my ride position is way better.

--

About the stock tires and stock crankset, they are fine for packed snow, but for soft deep snow, no way to ride. I believe and guess that a crankset between 24t to 32t will be ideal for that bike.

I am just saving some money to buy the Vuleta model, remove the biggest chainring, and ride with 32t or 22t to check which one wiill be the best one for my necessities.

--

Thanks.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> ... About the stock tires and stock crankset, they are fine for packed snow,...


Not for my legs. 
I guess with the extra height comes extra long legs for more power.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Canoe said:


> Not for my legs.
> I guess with the extra height comes extra long legs for more power.


Yes, yes it does. I'm 6'4" and I am POWER.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

watts888 said:


> for some good $35 fat bike tires (not so good in the snow or mud, but good reviews on dry stuff) vee tire co has the vee mission and V8 120tpi tires on sale for $35 each. not real aggressive tread, but a heck of a lot lighter than stock tires. I rode a specialized fatboy with their 4.7" ground control tires, and I was amazed by how much better the lighter tire steered. Bought a mission yesterday, they shipped today. I think theyre getting rid of old stock because people aren't buying them at retail price. For $35, at least get one for up front to help with steering.
> Mission[/QUOTE
> 
> Great deal..most likey not the best tire around..as I have read...but it's got to be a better tire then the stock ones on the Dolomite...I know they look a lot better then the stock rubber..also bought some Vee tubes...I will check the weight savings later..


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

I am looking for an adjustable handlebar stem....I am not sure what I'm looking for related to the sizes or diameters of the stem...I will most likely go with a different handle set also later...I need the bars up more and closer to me. What is the diameter of the stock stem..and diameter of the bars????

looking at this one...will it fit???

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/ritchey-adjustable-angle-road-stem


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

*Price back up........*

Price is back up to $237.53...still a good deal...cyber week it was $199.00. Rated as a pretty decent bike for the price..I have up graded mine..total $348.00....overll not bad...maybe next year I will upgrade to a better bike...but at this time being new at this kind of bike the price was right for me...sure it is not the best BUT it will get the job done with a little more effort and focus when riding it.


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## Woodsy11 (Dec 30, 2010)

Hey guys ..... while I was waiting for my Dolomite to arrive ,I was reading this thread page by page . Here is a short list of what I found , upon unpacking the bike :
1) the headset is dry and needs to be greased
2) the front hub is TIGHT and needs adjustment
3) the front brake need alignment (light lube on the mounting washers helps)
4) lube the chain ,cables and derailier

I greased all bolts while setting up the cockpit , and took my time doing a meticulous build which took just under 4 hours , but the bike works excellent . I know this stuff is a repeat but I hope it can help newer owners. Thanks for reading !!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Woodsy11 said:


> ... Here is a short list of what I found , upon unpacking the bike :...


Your list is limited, hence possibly misleading if someone only checks what's on your list:
In short, you need to check everything, lubing and adjusting as necessary. If you don't do this *before* your very first ride:
- You could severely reduce the useful life of bearings/hubs, etc.. 
- If the brakes are off, you could have an accident.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

06bigruckus said:


> I am looking for an adjustable handlebar stem....I will most likely go with a different handle set also later...I need the bars up more and closer to me. What is the diameter of the stock stem..and diameter of the bars????


The Ritchy adjustable stem is supposed to be the one to get: two bolts to clamp the steerer, four bolts to clamp the bar, and the angle adjustment supposedly can't slip.

The link you gave is for a road stem, i.e. for road bars, 26mm or 31.8mm, and says +/- 45 degrees. 
Ritchey Ritchey Adjustable Stem
says you have a choice of 25.8 or 31.8.
MTN bars are 25.4mm or oversized at 31.8mm.

You're "not supposed to use a 25.4mm bar in a 26mm clamp", as it may slip. A shim may work, if you're not giving it a lot of force on trails. Others are using the Ritchey on mtn fat bikes without issue. Your call.

My steerer tube is 1 1/8" and the stock bar measures as 25.0mm. Measure yours. Or find out the clamp diameter of a bar you may want to get in case it's the 31.8mm.
(I'm using a cheap adjustable stem, as I already had it, but don't really trust it...)


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks for info..I will check around to see if I can find one....if you have any that will work with the stem post on the Dolomite...post them..thanks



Canoe said:


> The Ritchy adjustable stem is supposed to be the one to get: two bolts to clamp the steerer, four bolts to clamp the bar, and the angle adjustment supposedly can't slip.
> 
> The link you gave is for a road stem, i.e. for road bars, 26mm or 31.8mm, and says +/- 45 degrees.
> Ritchey Ritchey Adjustable Stem
> ...


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## Woodsy11 (Dec 30, 2010)

YES ... Canoe is correct about my list , When I said meticolous build that's what I meant. Check everything as you go and treat it as = you have all of the parts , assemble them carefully and you will a great fat bike .


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

06bigruckus said:


> Thanks for info..I will check around to see if I can find one....if you have any that will work with the stem post on the Dolomite...post them..thanks


As stated above...


Canoe said:


> The Ritchy adjustable stem is supposed to be the one to get: two bolts to clamp the steerer, four bolts to clamp the bar, and the angle adjustment supposedly can't slip.
> ...
> You're "not supposed to use a 25.4mm bar in a 26mm clamp", as it may slip. A shim may work, if you're not giving it a lot of force on trails. Others are using the Ritchey on mtn fat bikes without issue. *Your call*.
> 
> My steerer tube is 1 1/8" and the stock bar measures as 25.0mm. Measure yours....


I intend to get the Ritchy. Waiting for a sale, as it's not a priority to me.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Just built it up, went together in about an hour. Not bad for a big box bike, I repacked the front wheel bearings and adjusted the calipers but otherwise it was better than I expected. The tires came with a more aggressive tread pattern than the cruiser tires pictured on the Wal-Mart site (the Beast tires). Looking forward to a test ride this weekend!


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

*New BB bearings came..*

Ordered these on

Amazon.com : YST Sealed BSA Cupset w/Bearings English Threads : Bottom Bike Brackets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

hopefully will add some strength to the crank unit...I weigh in at 230 lbs...more parts are coming for the upgrades...total parts around $180.00...


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

10 bucks, not bad! I will definitely need a seat but since I will buy a WTB that I can use later, on other bikes, I don't think I'll count that against the $36 I have remaining in my upgrade budget. May do this bb and a set of cheap normal cranks, as the crank unit literally makes me chuckle when I look at it.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Now waiting for the new handlebar... please arrive soon.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

What tire pressures are you guys running with the Dolo?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

carbuncle said:


> What tire pressures are you guys running with the Dolo?


3 to 15 PSI, usually 8 to 12, lower in winter
15 on a smooth bike path
3 on soft snow
scale it in between to suit the terrain for float or grip, adjust for your weight


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

10 in the back and 8 in the front for trails that are hard... Less when it gets soft.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Cool, thanks! Gives me something to start with.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

Finally someone noticed!


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

MAN! That would be KOOOOOL if it were true. I tried to google that magazine and could not find it. Could you send a link to it please?
Thanks!


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## Marna_Kazmaier (Sep 11, 2014)

Here is a Link about Walmart Bikes that will make you smile!

Fat Bike Slays Sea Otter Classic


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Marna_Kazmaier said:


> MAN! That would be KOOOOOL if it were true. I tried to google that magazine and could not find it. Could you send a link to it please?
> Thanks!


I don't think it's a real magazine.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Got the Dolo out for a test ride today, it was silly fun. Climbing is a chore with the stock gearing and I need to dial my preferred PSI in but for a short ride I can say it will be a fun bike. Surprisingly, I found the stock seat is fine for my boney ass though at 6' 2" with a 34" inseam I definitely did the right thing ordering the 450mm seatpost mentioned earlier in this thread. Reach with the stock bars is fine for me, short-ish but doable since I don't care for a stretched out XC position, and I can get used to the grips and grip shift. The brakes are fine for what they are, especially after they bed in a bit.

Came home and spent $30 of my remaining upgrade budget: the 14-34t Megarange freewheel, a freewheel tool (because I somehow don't have one, even with all the obsolete tools I have in my bike kit) and a non-QR seatclamp in dashing red. I have $6 left, and I am not going over (my total budget for this bike is $250).


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

Fatboy Jim said:


> View attachment 946316
> 
> 
> Finally someone noticed!


I see that someone knows how to use Photoshop, it's obviously fake.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

CannondaleF9 said:


> I see that someone knows how to use Photoshop, it's obviously fake.


So you are saying this one is fake too?









Damn! I bet Neil Armstrong would rock the Dolomite.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

So guys, I got nowhere fast with trying to order the Vinson. After everything was said and done it looked like it was going to cost around $600 for the Vinson shipped on Black Friday or even cyber Monday up here to Vermont. That on top of most likely needing to upgrade the brakes from what I've heard and possibly the rear tire at the least did not seem worth it. So instead I jumped on the $200 price tag of the Dolo Black Friday special. This one I'm going to try and build as light as possible with the original budget of what I was willing to spend on the Vinson.

I feel like I have picked up a good amount of info from building the first mongoose and this one has been fun because the girlfriend has been building it herself (with a little help from me) which I think will make her more knowledgeable about the mechanics of the bikes. Right now the bike is hovering around the 40lb mark. i would like to drill the rims and remove the kickstand for maybe another pound or two but those calls are up to her. 38lbs would be great for a bike that's been so affordable to build. Its also been a fun project since we have spaced all the build/upgrades/service of this bike over the past 10 days or so, all leading up to yesterday which was the last day of hunting season up here. So now all the trail will open back up and the snow bike grooming can start, we were already out this weekend in snowshoes surveying the trails and it looks like its going to be a awesome winter. So I will probably be posting less and riding a lot more. Here's we are at so far on bike #2.



























rear tire has now been swapped


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi Canoe, Awhile back I removed the stock 36T front chain ring put a25T front chain ring on my Dolomighty and you made a cool gear chart in post # 574. I now installed the Mega range in the back and added a 16T to the front chain ring. Any chance of you making another chart with the new gear set up? As always thanks in advance for any help. Gary


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> Hi Canoe, Awhile back I removed the stock 36T front chain ring put a25T front chain ring on my Dolomighty and you made a cool gear chart in post # 574. I now installed the Mega range in the back and added a 16T to the front chain ring. Any chance of you making another chart with the new gear set up? As always thanks in advance for any help. Gary


Sure.

16/25T front
which megarange? (13-28, 14-28, 12-32, 14-32, 11-34, 14-24)
which tire? or its radius (center of axle to the ground) when you're sitting on the bike in riding position with _your_ typical PSI. 

But I won't be able to do the chart until tomorrow sometime.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

The mega range is the 14-34T. The tire is the same one as on your bike (first production run?, solid rib around the middle) I weigh 200lbs. I run 25psi on pavement and 11-14 off road, 8-11psi snow. I'll measure the radius and post a couple pics of the new setup. 16T is from coaster brake hub with thick washer(spacer) welded to back of BMX 25T steel sprocket and then 16t welded to washer. For now I shift the front chain ring by hand. 25t for getting to the trails and 16t granny gears for off road. I choose the 16t so I would have a lower 1st gear than the more $$ bikes geared 22-42 with the saram cog. No rush on the chart


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe, Here's the pics and the radius you asked is 14 & 1/2" from ground to axle center with me on it and 11psi in tires. Chain length worked with new front chain ring and mega range in back keeping the same amount of links removed from previous front chain ring change. Gary


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

rockonx2 said:


> Here's the pics.


Here's the amount of chain removed when installing a 25T front chain ringcan be seen in post # 572 page 23 near bottom.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> The mega range is the 14-34T. ... tire ... first production run... I weigh 200lbs... 16T is from coaster brake hub with thick washer(spacer) welded to back of BMX 25T steel sprocket...14 & 1/2" from ground to axle center with me on it and 11psi in tires.


Here it is.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks Canoe! The lower gears really helps my 56yr old legs on the big hills :-{>
the fake magazine article with the Beast a hoot.


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## nubnav (Dec 17, 2014)

*Sunrace 8-Speed Freewheel 13-34... Will this work with the stock wheel/frame?*

Hello. I have an 8spd rear shifter I'm thinking of mounting to my Dolo, if this freewheel will work. Here's the link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7PSKU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3HKWFZMD0QFVQ

Thanks.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I don't have direct experience but Sheldon brown said 6 and 7 are interchangeable but going to 8 is probably not gonna work out. I would ask this in the vintage section they might have more info about it.


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## nubnav (Dec 17, 2014)

Thanks for the tip. New to freewheels... and this bike. 

I've read all the postings in this thread. Seems the stock wheels are holding up well. Even with some people drilling them out. 
At 222 lbs. wheels durability has always been an issue for me with standard mtbs. How durable are these rims?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The 8 speed shifters will work with as 7 speed freewheel. The indexing is the same for 7 and 8. Just have an unused great spot on the shifter. I did the 8 speed sunrace freewheel too. Works fine as far as shifting. The sunrace freewheel is OK, but the quality isn't the same as a shimano.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

momikey, nice build!

So I got the 450mm seat post from China today, not bad fulfillment time at all, about 10 days! Fits much better than the stock post, and is both lighter and more solid. Price dropped from when I ordered it, it was about $14 shipped and is now about $11 shipped.


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## Philphine (Aug 6, 2011)

nubnav said:


> Hello. I have an 8spd rear shifter I'm thinking of mounting to my Dolo, if this freewheel will work. Here's the link:
> 
> Amazon.com : Sunrace 8-Speed Freewheel 13-34 : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Thanks.


i could use this on a couple other projects, but is it a spin on freewheel, or a cassette?


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

momikey said:


> So last week I ordered a new set of brakes to install for trail use. They were suggested by a member on another forum and have great stopping power. Problem is that those rotor bolts gave me the same hard time that everyone else ran into with them. After I figured out how to remove one of the bolts easily with this procedure the rest of them came right off, I'd say 5minutes per hub. Either way here is the trick
> 
> You need a rotary too with cut off wheel
> A drill with a small bit
> ...


The same happened to me :/
Tomorrow I am going to do the same as you did.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I've used a pair of vice grips to remove bolts that didn't want to come out cause the factory put them on top tight. You need a fairly new pair that isn't wobbly cause if it is it'll slip off.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

I think I need a trigger shifter, too...I forgot how much I prefer not using GripShift.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Well... I am going to keep the default rotors. I tried to made a cut off just like momikey and almost I damaged a bolt.

So, to avoid to make a mess, I am going to use the stock rotors and another day, with somebody that has more experience, will try again.

Now, the freewheel it is hard to remove, I did not remove yet ;(


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Did you try vice grips? That's worked for me every time


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> Did you try vice grips? That's worked for me every time


Did not tried that because I have to google how to use a vice grip to remove an allen bolt.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Just grip around the sides and turn


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> Just grip around the sides and turn


Ok 

Now I am wondering and searching how to remove the freewheel, I do not know if I have over a here a "cheat" bar but I have time ;D


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

How to remove/install freewheel (no special tools):


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Hi,

So, I remove the freewheel and also removed the rotors bolts using a vice grip as suggested over here.

Now I have another situation here, my freewheel is making a lot of noise, probably some bearings are not in the right position anymore. Tomorrow I will follow the instructions on this video (



) and check what I can do.

Otherwise, a new freewheel I will buy


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Disassembling a freewheel should almost never be required. 
That said, you may have trashed it if you hit it too hard, or in the wrong place, and that impact load impacted the bearings too hard. That's why there's a tool for distributing the turning removal force without placing that load onto the freewheel bearings. 

If you do end up needing a replacement, look at one of the 34T megaranges. But as they're so cheap, you'll likely want one anyway.
Do look back in this thread and consider making a custom stack of gears for the megarange freewheel. Make sure you get the correct version of the megarange so that you can build a custom stack, be it now or in the future. 

Also back in this thread are the links regarding freewheels on the sheldonbrown site and the Park Tool site. You may wish to browse those before you 'fix' anything else.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Canoe said:


> Disassembling a freewheel should almost never be required.
> That said, you may have trashed it if you hit it too hard, or in the wrong place, and that impact load impacted the bearings too hard. That's why there's a tool for distributing the turning removal force without placing that load onto the freewheel bearings.
> 
> If you do end up needing a replacement, look at one of the 34T megaranges. But as they're so cheap, you'll likely want one anyway.
> ...


Thanks a lot Canoe, I did not disassembled the freewheel yet, but probably when I was trying to remove the freewheel from the rear wheel, something impacted in the freewheel bearings I presume, because before I took it off there was no noise, after I took it off and put it back the noise started.

Also, I made some test to ensure that it was the freewheel:

*First test:* I put the rear wheel on the bike without the freewheel and made some spins, no noise,

*Second test:* took the rear wheel off from the bike, put the freewheel on the rear wheel, put it back on the bike with the freewheel, made some spins, now I have noise.

*Last test:* I repeat the process without the freewheel to make sure that the hub and axle are ok, no noise at all.

So, my bet is that the strange noise came from the freewheel and I already decided that I am going to buy a new freewheel (sunrace 13/28 - the cheapest that I found here in Canada) and later I will change the front chainring from 36t to 22t using a Shimano Acera Crankset (Shimano Acera 4-Bolt 175mm 8 Speed Crankset - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available)

Thanks Canoe for all the information that you posted over here.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

If I was replacing it I would definitely do the mega and make a custom stack. I do that on my cassettes to get an even 15-36 on an 8 speed for one of my bikes. I used to soak the freewheel and spin it in gasoline and then soak it in motor oil and clean the outside with rubbing alcohol and a rag. I know other people use mineral spirits and other lubes but that's how I was taught way back when and it worked. What kind of noise is it? I would probably just soak and lube it and ride it and see if it goes away.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> If I was replacing it I would definitely do the mega and make a custom stack. I do that on my cassettes to get an even 15-36 on an 8 speed for one of my bikes. I used to soak the freewheel and spin it in gasoline and then soak it in motor oil and clean the outside with rubbing alcohol and a rag. I know other people use mineral spirits and other lubes but that's how I was taught way back when and it worked. What kind of noise is it? I would probably just soak and lube it and ride it and see if it goes away.


Hi ou2mame,

I used a citrus degreaser on the freewheel after I removed it. Than I used the polemic WD40 on it. I did not put any oil on it and I have here with me a Shimano PTFE Lube that it could work to lube.

Tomorrow I will put back the freewheel, lube it and record a mini video with a nice audio to show you guys.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

So it was making a sound and then you cleaned it out and lubed it and it's still making the same sound?


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> So it was making a sound and then you cleaned it out and lubed it and it's still making the same sound?


No, it is not the natural sound of a freewheel, way different, just like there is something loose inside the freewheel (if I shake it I heard a noise similar that has a little thing loose inside).

It is my first time that I heard a sound like this, I have another MTB with a 5spd freewheel and a touring bike with a 8spd cassette and on both bikes never had similar situation on freewheel/cassette.

Tomorrow I will record this sound and post here.

Thanks again.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I don't mean that its a normal sound I'm just trying to understand how it started, and if after cleaning and lubing the freewheel it's making the same sound.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> I don't mean that its a normal sound I'm just trying to understand how it started, and if after cleaning and lubing the freewheel it's making the same sound.


That's ok ou2mame. I appreciate your time trying to figure out the noise.

My roommate also ride bikes for a few years and we believe that the noise is similar to metal with metal contact. For him that's a very weird noise too, but probably the freewheel is damaged.

Now I have to find a cheaper freewheel here in Canada, it could be even a 13/28 or xy/34.

Thanks again.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

A replacement freewheel is pretty much a legacy part. 
Seen it said that a used Shimano will outlast a new Sunrace. Don't know. 

To get a megarange (seen new as low as $10 USD) from the States, there are places you can order online that are registered with CRA and collect & submit the taxes to CRA from the buyer, so the shipment isn't held for ransom ("broker fees") at the "border" by the shipping company. If it's shipped by USPS, that's the lowest shipping cost. Although those bigger online stores who are registered are often not the best price, they're usually a good price. Both the part and the shipping are less than purchasing in Canada - and the part is available. 

Don't be shy of a used megarange. Do learn how to tell if the teeth are worn, as that will quickly wear your chain. Otherwise, just clean it out (no WD40), lube it and go. The freewheel bearings only see the load of coasting/back-pedalling, so should last nearly forever if they're cleaned and lubed as needed (provided someone doesn't hammer on them...).

An easy front is to get a MTB triple, 22/32/42T, (mine is used) and manually change between the 22T and 32T depending on the terrain. Many Gear Inch charts are posted earlier in this thread, where you can see the "alpine" gear spacing of the megarange with the granny 34T, and charts where that setup and the Dolo stock are compared to a custom stack (where the gears are more usefully spaced across the range for regular use).


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

*REDUCED 3 LBS Origin8 Devist8er tires w/ Vee Tube VB8641 From Factory Tires / Tubes*

Save 3 lbs from removing factory tires and tubes..changeover cost me $87.00 for the 2 tires & 2 tubes...

see pics of the factory set-up..compaired to the new set-up

Used the Devist8ER tires and Vee Tubes...tires cost me $70..not the best but ok with me!!

Rim was a little over 5 lbs...SEE ALL PICS BELOW


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Just follow the link of the video with the sound:





But, besides that I went to a little ride to test the freewheel and the new brakes and now I will not buy a new freewheel until this one fall apart


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Wow that's a crazy sound. Definitely sounds bad but the wheel is spinning really free.. I bet riding it would probably fix it haha.. I don't know though.. I haven't seen a freewheel since oiling the one on my 86 gt performer but I don't ride it so it's been over a decade since I've owned one.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

ou2mame said:


> Wow that's a crazy sound. Definitely sounds bad but the wheel is spinning really free.. I bet riding it would probably fix it haha.. I don't know though.. I haven't seen a freewheel since oiling the one on my 86 gt performer but I don't ride it so it's been over a decade since I've owned one.


I made a few tests while riding. Press a little bit the front brake and keep riding to force the freewheel, nothing happened.

Did that for a few moments and it seems fine, let's check how long it longs


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## nubnav (Dec 17, 2014)

Sorry, been working too much lately... yes, this is a "spin on freewheel" according to the photos I've seen elsewhere on a google image search I did. hope that helps.


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## nubnav (Dec 17, 2014)

Philphine said:


> i could use this on a couple other projects, but is it a spin on freewheel, or a cassette?


Let's try this again... So, check these photos out:

8 Speed Freewheel 13 to 34 Megadrive: Staton Inc

Hope that helps.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi, Has any one tried cutting some of the knobs (every other one or every two in some type pattern) off the stock Dolomite tires to see how much weight could be saved? or shaving the tire with a tire groover like they do to monster truck tires to lighten them. Just an idea in keeping the bike cheap with at home inexpensive modifications. The freewheel in the video below sounds bad to me like a hardened chip from the bearing area where the freewheel was taken off with a screwdriver and hammer fell inside the bearing race area of the freewheel.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> ... let's check how long it longs


Or where you are when it fails...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ...Has any one tried cutting some of the knobs (every other one or every two in some type pattern) off the stock Dolomite tires to see how much weight could be saved?...


Consider:
- how much weight would be saved, 
- what benefit would it give you, and 
- how compromised would the tire be: 
why on earth would you bother.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

wow you better of losing 5 lbs...off your body



Canoe said:


> Consider:
> - how much weight would be saved,
> - what benefit would it give you, and
> - how compromised would the tire be:
> why on earth would you bother.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Cost and already have the tires. I don't believe it would compromise the tire because of the slow speed of this type bike. Also depends on how careful / skilled they are at doing this type modification. Because when you spend close to $100 on tires and tubes maybe should have bought the more $$ bike first. Just my thought. I would bet if you used a first production run Dolo tire and cut every other knob off and trim the center rib out with the tire groover you could save about 2lbs per tire for a couple hours elbow grease.


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## j.rex (Sep 9, 2014)

So I removed a little bit material from the front rim, went from 1255g to 955g. Now to lace it back up.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ... you could save about 2lbs per tire for a couple hours elbow grease.


And what benefit do you think you would be getting from that...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

The weight reduction is just one of the benefits of the 120TPI tires, the stock ones move fine and are heavier on the legs, but the "suppleness" people always mention of the 120tpi is where a huge benefit comes in as well. Also I really feel that on most all fat bikes, unless you are paying around $1000 or more for the bike, you are going to be needing snow tires. So while I did spend $100 on tires for a $200 bike, it rides leaps and bound better than it did with the stock tires and I loose 1lb per $10 spent. I think that's the highest weight reduction to dollar spent savings in the bike world.

Also, the lady's bike is finished. Came out nice, rides smooth, looks cool too!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> The weight reduction is just one of the benefits of the 120TPI tires, the stock ones move fine and are heavier on the legs, but the "suppleness" people always mention of the 120tpi is where a huge benefit comes in as well. ...


It's the suppleness that correlates with roll resistance. The weight reduction is a just a side benefit, but it's a measure people can make and see, so they start equating weight as roll-resistance. Cutting what you think is spare rubber off does have somewhat of an effect on suppleness, but it does not turn a low tpi tire into a 120 tpi tire.

The (original) stock tires are not supple, and suck a huge amount of energy. Don't know about the newer stock tire. (strangely, my stock Dolo tires roll noticeably better than the identical appearing stock Beast tires; a 120 tpi Larry or Endo blows them away)

Less weight on the tire will give you faster acceleration - if that's an issue for you on a fat bike. But it also reduces the momentum for getting through the snow or maintaining your speed over obstacles. If you trim rubber off, then you've got less rubber between pointy and abrasive things and the integrity of your tires.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

As long as you only cut off the knobbies it won't effect the integrity of the tire at all. And it will probably make it lighter and have more grip in the dirt.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

j.rex said:


> So I removed a little bit material from the front rim, went from 1255g to 955g. Now to lace it back up.


Beautiful work j.rex. Using some pro tools for the job i bet. Love the pattern.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

rockonx2 said:


> Cost and already have the tires. I don't believe it would compromise the tire because of the slow speed of this type bike. Also depends on how careful / skilled they are at doing this type modification. Because when you spend close to $100 on tires and tubes maybe should have bought the more $$ bike first. Just my thought. I would bet if you used a first production run Dolo tire and cut every other knob off and trim the center rib out with the tire groover you could save about 2lbs per tire for a couple hours elbow grease.


You can't make a bad tire good. All you can do is chop some stuff off a bad time and then you have a bad tire that's just less of itself. It's like with trucks. You're not gonna go offloading with a street tire. Nobody goes car shopping and decides because of the tires. While you might be spending 100 bucks on a 200 dollar bike, to get a bike with the tires you want you might have to spend 1k+, so that's kind of a moot point. I run different tires for different terrain, I'm not gonna buy 2 bikes, just the 2 sets of tires. For the money, the dolo leaves a lot of room for upgrades and is still very affordable compared to its big name counterparts. I bought a Boris x5 because I knew I'd immediately upgrade the drivetrain on the dolo and it didn't make any sense monetarily. But if you don't have the money to put down and the majority of the bike is ok for your use, its a good value. Just depends on your intentions and expectations.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> You can't make a bad tire good. All you can do is chop some stuff off a bad time and then you have a bad tire that's just less of itself...


+100


ou2mame said:


> ...It's like with trucks. You're not gonna go offloading with a street tire. ...


Unless you don't mind paying the farmer to drive his tractor out to pull you back...
With a bike, are you pushing it back, or did you get hurt?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

j.rex said:


> So I removed a little bit material from the front rim, went from 1255g to 955g. Now to lace it back up.


What kind of riding on what kind of terrain will you take that on?


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

Love the rim machining, but will the rims be able to be brought up to proper tension? looks a little scary. I just did the 1" hole opposite the spokes because I didn't want to go crazy. I did rebuild on a cassette hub to get rid of freewheel. 

Here's some pics from out of box to final build...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I got my beast rims down to under 800 grams. They are starting to give my troubles with spoke tension. The drilled holes seem to be better.


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

I had to be careful when relacing not to overtension wheel. I did use alloy nipples though to lighten up a bit. I had most everything already in parts. Only bought a few items.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Blown240,
What's the "starting to give me troubles with spoke tension"? 
Rim flexing, spokes not holding tension, other?
Are you using a 'thread locker'?

Llouie,
The yellow/green sure looks good. 
What cassette did you go with, what's the front chainring and how are you finding it?

With those size of holes, as long as they haven't started making the rims from a much thinner thickness metal then the rims on mine, you should be fine getting normal tensions with those size of holes. A wheel _is_ a pretensioned structure... too low a tension and then on the impact side the spokes can go so low in tension that the wheels may taco. With their large contact patch, fat tires should avoid an impact point load and only have to deal with a distributed load (still has the max and min load positions on the wheels, just no impact point load like skinny minny road tires).


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Green and yellow bike looks cool, does anyone have a video or want to make a video for removing the rear cassette on the Dolo? I was riding today and after going through water and snow my cassette doesn't wanna spin in reverse, the chain just doesn't move when I pedal backwards and falls onto the axle. I'm letting it thaw at the moment but I'm not sure it will help.

I think this started when I went to remove the cassette without the proper tools and ended up spinning it off the hub and about 37 bearings feel out. I put them all back in but I think I might need some help with this.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I think it's time for a new one is how that works lol


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... after going through water and snow my cassette doesn't wanna spin in reverse, the chain just doesn't move when I pedal backwards and falls onto the axle. I'm letting it thaw at the moment but I'm not sure it will help.
> I think this started when I went to remove the cassette without the proper tools and ended up spinning it off the hub and about 37 bearings feel out. I put them all back in but I think I might need some help with this.





ou2mame said:


> I think it's time for a new one is how that works lol


Pretty much... and you might be in for a new hub. If so, consider moving to a cassette hub, so you have more choices for rear gears. Your headset would appreciate that too, but it's little higher up and away from the mess.

Your stock Dolo freewheel (no cassette) is meant for light cruising down the street. 
Before winter riding, I have suggested, Without Taking It Apart, you'd want to flush it out with a solvent (say no to WD40) and then lube it with a light oil, but preferably a silicone grease.

I'd also want to have taken the rear axle bearings out, cleaned all the old grease out, and then repacked the entire space with an appropriate grease so there's no air space for any water to get in. Same for your front hub and the bottom bracket.

So far, mine love _Permatex Ultra Slick Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease_. YRMV

When you spun your freewheel off, you were likely taking the axle/hub cone off, not the freewheel. Those were likely the ball bearings to the hub. You need to check out servicing both the freewheel (although it's far easier to replace it - check out the various recommend ones throughout various posts in this thread) and the hub bearings. 
You can start with these links:
Traditional Thread-on Freewheels
The link at Harris on customizing 7 speed freewheels is gone. 
But you can read this http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11157937 by blown240

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Cassette and Freewheel Removal
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Freewheel- destructive removal

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment
Cone Adjustment


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Canoe, I broke down both bikes you see pictured for rebuilds like you suggested earlier in this thread. When removing the rear axle I took apart the cones and took out the 9 bearings on each side of the hub. I greased it and tensioned it back up according to the Sheldon Brown website suggested. After assemble the wheel spins great and freely on the axle!

However when taking the whee off to strip I went to remove the freewheel and I spun it off towards the top of its pyramid shape, and the #37+/- bearings came out, I counted them to make sure I had them all. I had all 7 gears in my had and out of all the stuff I rebuilt and feel like I know like the back of my hand the rear drive-train is the only thing I'm unfamiliar with. 

Looking at the Sheldon Brown link you just posted for me I think the ring that his arrow points to in the first pic right about the threads to spin it on. On my freewheel I think that cover came off and that's where the bearings were, I might not have put that piece back together in the mix :madman:.


Whoops, I'll order a new one and get the tools. Thanks for all the help, without your thread I think half of the Dolomite's would have wheels that don't even turn.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Then given where you ride, I'd say it's time for a new, more robust and more appropriately geared freewheel. 


ou2mame said:


> I think it's time for a new one is how that works lol


Unless you want the bragging right for fixing it and the possible bragging rights to the story about how you got home again when it fails somewhere out back in the woods.

Or to explain it another way: given what it's doing right now, can you trust it in the future...

~edit


momikey said:


> ...Whoops, I'll order a new one and get the tools. Thanks for all the help, without your thread I think half of the Dolomite's would have wheels that don't even turn.


I do believe that's the right way to go.

Yes, this thread has been helpful in a lot of ways due to all of the useful information people have posted.

And speaking of which, as you're not riding just on city bike paths or streets, do look into doing a custom stack, as detailed in blown240's posts.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Haha, I live a mile away from a huge bike park and we have a loop open for the winter but i like reliability. I see people have gone with the megarange, I don't think I need that with my 22T up front but when you "more robust" do you have anything in mind that might fit? I was just gonna call pacific and when they send a new one I'll try not to but it apart and risk not putting it back together correctly!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

No, don't get another stock freewheel for where you ride and the season.

A megarange is the one to get. There are different gear/sprocket combos for that. _"which megarange? (13-28, 14-28, 12-32, 14-32, 11-34, 14-24)"_
And like I posted, do check out the benefits of a custom stack.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks Canoe! I didn't realize some of the megaranges lack the huge gap in teeth between first and second gear. I see a few on ebay that are normal looking stacks. would try what Blown240 did, but I'm little nervous about taking another one apart! Also the second bike I put together posted above with the stock red tires and black on one floaters, that thing is going on the same trails and not having the same issues and I think that's because I didn't mess with that one. I only did the normal services to it. I guess the stock freewheel on these is not a decent Shimano model?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I think this might be a nice range without making a custom stack?










https://https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-31T/dp/B005DTX5I2/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1419204130&sr=1-6&keywords=7+speed+freewheel


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

One - I'd have to know the specific gears.
Two - that's a cassette. You'd have to change to a different hub. 

And it looks like it's a rivet model: can't do a custom stack. For future possibilities, I'd suggest ensuring the freewheel you get can be custom stacked. 

In the various Gear Inch charts I've posted in this thread, is included that for a MTB tripple front, including a 22T. So you can see where your current low fits from the stock Dolo rear with a 22T front. Then decide if that is enough or if you'd benefit from something lower and from a custom stack.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

See dude thats how much of a newb I am on rear ends! I searched freewheel 7 speed and amazon linked me that, my bad!


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

This is the one you want I got mine ebay store discountbicycle603
10.60 + 6.10 shipping new.

Shimano TZ31 7 Speed 14 34T Freewheel | eBay

I just installed one on my dolomite. works great.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea, this seems to be the one everyone likes. I was just trying to find something with a closer 1st and 2nd gear and someone suggested an 8speed freewheel that they use without any mods and just don't use the 8th gear. I'm trying to decide between the two. I'm glad to see that seller on ebay has it, they are a few hours from where I live and ship everything here overnight!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> This is the one you want ...


Not necessarily. He's running a 22T front, not the stock front. 
He needs to determine what the different megaranges will give him with that front.

And, if the photos is correct, that's the riveted version.


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

Thanks..., I actually bought a wheelset off of ebay that was 29er rims laced to fatbike hubs. My plan was simply to break down wheels, keep hubs and resale rims. I just did not want to bother with freewheels anymore because I changed over to cassettes awhile ago and have hoarded a few for my different bikes.

I am using 8spd sram cassete w/12-32 set-up. I mistakenly misread the rear axle width on the wheelset that I bought... thought it said 190mm but it ended up being 170mm. I took the solid axle from the mongoose wheel and put it in the new rear hub. It kinda sucked for a minute because I wanted quick release everything. What I did find on ebay though was a set of quick release for solid axles which I snapped up for $25 bucks. Worth it to me not having to carry extra wrenches in case of a flat. Though I don't see these tires flatting anytime soon ha ha... I plan to wear the stock tires out,,, heavy as heck, but it will only make me stronger.

As far as front gearing goes..., I popped the crank off (I am putting it on a bike I'm selling). I had an old Ritchey crank lying around that I didn't sell w/130bcd. I also had some rings that had 130/110bcd hole combo. I cut teeth off to use as chainring guard and carrier for my 110bcd 36t ring. I figure I have a few gearing options if I don't like the 36t. I had to buy chainring spacers though to set it up properly (works great no creaking). 

I had friend modify the bottom bracket spindle (I did not want to use those crappy nuts to secure my crankset after reading how someone stripped them. He cut off the threads and dilled/tapped the ends to take the standard 8mm bolts on cranks. I was really happy with that as I plan on running this crank set-up for all its worth (I did upgrade to the YST bottom bracket cups... well worth it too).

I at least plan on selling stock hubs, freewheel, seat + post, 29er rims from purchased wheelset, and bike that I put parts (bars, stem, shifters, derailleur, brake levers) that I didn't want from this bike to recoup any money I spent on the fatty...


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

The freewheel uses the same tool as shimano/sram cassettes. If you are using anything other than this specific tool you are asking for trouble. Worth it to get the right tool if you are working on it yourself...$10 saves you a big headache. Performance, Nashbar, Ebay all carry Park tools and other brands.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

I believe the riveted ones are all you will find. not worth the trouble trying to make a custom stack with a freewheel (new mega range has top three gears riveted together). For that you should use a free hub cassette and for that you would need a different hub laced to the fat rim. I added the mega range 14-34 with a 25t on the front and it made the bike much easier to pedal. I now use all the speeds not just 1st thru 4thth like when I got the bike.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> I believe the riveted ones are all you will find.
> not worth the trouble trying to make a custom stack with a freewheel. ...


Many have found the megaranges that use only cogs (which may contribute to their becoming scarce). It's the newer ones that are riveted. What else did they cut corners on...

It's not worth it to have a non-alpine gear spacing if you have a freewheel, but it is if you have a cassette? Those who ride where they'll actually use the range and not just have a low as a granny/bailout would disagree. Being limited to a single front doesn't work for many, so a 22-32T front allows them to get a usable range for all their riding.

As to doing a custom stack.


Canoe said:


> The link at Harris on customizing 7 speed freewheels is gone.
> But you can read this http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11157937 by blown240


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Ok, I bought a new riveted mega range 14-34 works great and now want to build a custom stack with the old freewheel (Falcon) off the Dolo. What I'm looking for is the 34T Falcon or Sun Run or Sun Race (old style/ non riveted)? cog only. Would anyone on this site have one to sell or know where I could buy one? as always thanks in advance for any help. Gary


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

It would be a lot easier to build custom stacks on a cassette. If i wanted to go that route I'd change out the hub and do it right.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea I rode the trails all weekend fine doing 300ft climbs and descents in 2nd and 3rd gear on the stock freewheel the entire time, but with my 22T up front. My GF was in 1st gear on the stock freewheel and 22T up front. She was struggling on most hills, some of that can be attributed to her not biking too often and the bike weighing in at 39 pounds. So if I can run the Megarange 34T rear on hers with the front 22T I'm hoping she will be able to bike a little more terrain. I think I might just get the same 7 speed freewheel as I have now and just get the Shimano Tourney model on amazon for $10, no need for a 34T rear first gear on my bike


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

Hello Everyone, new to the forum, but I have had my Dolo for a few months. This thread has been great, and I have enjoyed my dolo, but it's had some challenges. I bent my original cranks, grip shifts suck, and 7 gears didn't feel like enough, so I decided to play a bit. 

First thing I did was slap on a triple crankset from another Mongoose. Definitely an improvement adding a granny gear, and I was using the manual (hand) derailleur. Nice, but still not enough.

I had some XT 10 speed derailleurs and SLX shifters that I had planned for another project that didn't pan out. Thus I found a 10 speed freewheel online, decided to give it a shot. 

So far I have the rear derailleur and shifter setup and shifting pretty well on the stand, but we have storms / tornado watches around here, so no ride yet. I may get out later this week when it clears up and give a report. 

Next I have to figure out how to route the front derailleur cable. I have some adhesive routing mounts on the way, so we will see how those work. 

I'll post some pics and updates later, as I keep getting errors going to advanced mode.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Welcome to the forum! I've never seen a 10 speed freewheel. Good job, and post some pics!!


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

thelightingguy said:


> I had some XT 10 speed derailleurs and SLX shifters that I had planned for another project that didn't pan out. Thus I found a 10 speed freewheel online, decided to give it a shot.


Could you pass the link of the 10 speed freewheel?

Thanks.

Edit: found it LONG YIH INDUSTRY COMPANY


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

What crankset do you guys prefer?

Shimano Acera: Shimano Acera 4-Bolt 175mm 8 Speed Crankset - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available
CAD $49.00 + shipping

Vuelta MTB Comp: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1947489602&pf_rd_i=915398
CAD $33.60 + free shipping

During winter I will ride only with 22t on it, after winter I will change to 32t, or keep the 22t.


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

virtu said:


> Could you pass the link of the 10 speed freewheel?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Edit: found it LONG YIH INDUSTRY COMPANY


The one I have is a DNP Epoch, got it at tree fort bikes, cheap too!















I did did have to add spacers on the drive side to make it work.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> What crankset do you guys prefer?
> 
> During winter I will ride only with 22t on it, after winter I will change to 32t, or keep the 22t.


One where the arms go out enough to clear the chain-stays. You also don't' want your heels running into the chain-stays. I don't know if those products will clear. I got used at a bike repair/recycle neighbourhood station, so I could place parts until I got a fit I liked.

Those of us with 22-32-42T typically just do a quick manual change of lifting the chain from one ring to the other, depending on the terrain.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

thelightingguy said:


> The one I have is a DNP Epoch, ...


x10 sure seems interesting. 
Did you have to re-dish the wheel?
Obviously too soon to know if it will bend the axle... please let us know how that goes.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Canoe said:


> One where the arms go out enough to clear the chain-stays. You also don't' want your heels running into the chain-stays. I don't know if those products will clear.


Thanks Canoe.

Now I will try to figure out which one has similar dimensions with the stock ones.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

virtu said:


> Now I will try to figure out which one has similar dimensions with the stock ones.


Easiest, surest, is to go with models that others have used successfully.

And (you're not going to like this) there are reports that the chain-stay shape/spacing is different on the newer Dolomites compared to the stock first out last spring. I _think_ it was more clearance for crank arms, less for tire shoulders, anyway, something - you'll need to check that. If I recall correctly, someone posted two images, showing both the old spacing and the new spacing, but I may be dreaming.

It's a big thread, you're going to have to do some searching. Hopefully someone who knows will repeat what the newer chain-stay spacing is.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Canoe said:


> Easiest, surest, is to go with models that others have used successfully.
> 
> And (you're not going to like this) there are reports that the chain-stay shape/spacing is different on the newer Dolomites compared to the stock first out last spring. I _think_ it was more clearance for crank arms, less for tire shoulders, anyway, something - you'll need to check that. If I recall correctly, someone posted two images, showing both the old spacing and the new spacing, but I may be dreaming.
> 
> It's a big thread, you're going to have to do some searching. Hopefully someone who knows will repeat what the newer chain-stay spacing is.


Thanks again, back a few pages a user recommended the Vuelta model, but I do not know if he installed one or just recommended because it is a square taper crankset.

Also, my Dolo is the old model just like yours, but l will read again the 44 pages with no problem and wait for somebody repeat or post any new information. 

By the way, merry xmas for all over here


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## letrbuk (Dec 4, 2014)

I put the Vuelta crank on my dolo. It works great.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

letrbuk said:


> I put the Vuelta crank on my dolo. It works great.


Do you mind to share with us a picture?
Thanks.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Hello all! 
Just curious as I have read most of this thread but how does the stock weight of a dolomite stack up with more expensive fat bikes? Components aside is there an apples to apples comparison of where these bikes should be weight wise to be more competitive? What does a high end fatty weigh?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Understand that there's a number of differences between different Fat Bike setups, like ~4" vs. ~5" tires, suspension forks, etc., but to grossly generalize:
a typical Fat Bike will be in the 35 lbs range,
a higher end Fat Bike can be under 25 lbs,
the Dolo stock is ~49 lbs. 
Better tires & tubes can get a Dolo to ~41 lbs range, but $ (or $$, you can spend what you paid for the whole bike...). This is a huge upgrade for better riding due to a better quality tire (120 tpi recommended) not the weight reduction (which is merely a bonus for hill climbing and acceleration - but you're not going to choose a Dolo for racing... unless you're doing it 'just because', for bragging rights, or you're trying to prove you're a little bit crazy and therefore unable to be employable and pay alimony)
Keep in mind that the Dolomite comes stock geared for cruiser riding. 
Same for the brakes: brakes are of a quality that it would be unsafe to ride this bike many places that a basic Fat Bike is ridden. But, if you're not somewhat of an experienced rider you wouldn't want to be riding in those places no matter how much your bike cost.

For those with a limited budget - or want the bragging rights for doing the most with/for the least - it can be a good choice for a first Fat Bike, as you can upgrade a few key components for low dollars, carefully matching the components that need to be upgraded for your intended riding. BUT, as stated in many posts in this thread, *you have to be careful that the upgrades you need/want don't push the total cost spent on the bike up into the range of the budget "real" Fat Bikes**, that come with one of everything needed to ride trails - which would be a much better value for your money*. I use the term _"real" Fat Bikes_ in an attempt to remind people that the stock Dolomite (although better than a typical WalGoose) is not of the same quality *nor capability* of what most people would expect from a typical Fat Bike.

New in the mix are a few newer low end models of various brands that are placed between the Dolomite and the $800 budget Fat Bikes. (watch out for the ones with the rim brakes in the rear!!!) Not enough feedback on those to see if they're a good value or if you should skip them and move into the $800-$1,000 budget Fat Bike range. Frequent advice is to spend that ~$1,000 on a used better quality Fat Bike; if you don't like Fat Biking, you can usually count on getting your money back.

That said, I love riding my Dolomite. Assuming you greased and adjusted everything properly, and upgraded what was need for the riding you do, be prepared to ride with a smile. And be careful who you let ride it - they may not want to give it back.


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## letrbuk (Dec 4, 2014)

*Vuelta crank pics*


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

*MERRY CHRISTMAS To All :-[>*

Merry Christmas To All on this thread! Thanks to all for your tech and mechanical help.
You have made owning my first FAT BIKE very enjoyable. Gary H.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Canoe said:


> Understand that there's a number of differences between different Fat Bike setups, like ~4" vs. ~5" tires, suspension forks, etc., but to grossly generalize:
> a typical Fat Bike will be in the 35 lbs range,
> a higher end Fat Bike can be under 25 lbs,
> the Dolo stock is ~49 lbs.
> ...


If you're going to upgrade the dolo to lbs quality, you're probably better off going with a bd bike. I wanted to build up a dolo, but it just wasn't cost effective


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

After almost 29km, when I was coming back to home, my freewheel decided to became a free wheel 

Started to spin freely forward, so had to walk back home for at least 2km.

Besides that, it was a really nice ride over here, a little bit of snow with some sun lights in some periods.

  

  



Thanks a lot and merry xmas to all.


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## JSchmitz (Nov 12, 2012)

Happy holidays to all, while a Muk 3 owner for a few years I have learned quite a lot from the thread. Good to see as many folks as there are out enjoying biking, fat in particular! One question I have is about the disks on the Dolo - I see they are mostly solid which is something I have been looking for to see if it might decrease the tendency of the vented ones to "turkey talk" under load. What size are the Dolo disks? Six bolt? Thanks and enjoy!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

this shows what was originally shipped as stock
standard six bolt ISO
disc has six spokes, 12 holes
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-2.html#post11056524

newer stock be different

reports of much better stopping with upgraded discs, used, installed from other projects
and of course with new disc & calipers, like BB7s

p.s.
mine can gobble when damp, wet or whenever the f they want


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

New Origin8 rims and hubs on my Dolomite. Still need to replace the rear brake and figure out what I'm going to do for the drivetrain









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

*Updates on 3x10 Dolomite*

Update: A few more trips around the block says the 10s rear gears work well, but the front will only go into the small and middle chainring. Not a big deal, as I do not see the big ring being used much, but it may also be related to using a 7s cheapie front crankset. Maybe I will catch a deal on eBay for a 9s and have it work better. Taking it on the trail tomorrow AM, will post a trail update afterwards. Pics:

Adding spacers has the wheel slightly off center, a little more chain room.







A little less clearance on the non drive side.







The brighter freewheel looks blingy at the moment, no dirt yet.







Overall, still fairly even.







New shifters and grips. Brake levers suck and will be next.







A longer seatpost I had laying around helps, as do the pedals.







Gotta love zip ties, holding my temporary mounting for the front derailleur cables, and I used an origin8 direct mount clamp to mount up the FD. I made do with a leather strip for a spacer as it was too big for the tube, but so far it seems to work pretty well.


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

Magnuts said:


> New Origin8 rims and hubs on my Dolomite. Still need to replace the rear brake and figure out what I'm going to do for the drivetrain
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are those 170mm spacing rear wheels? If so, were there any problems mounting them?? The 170mm hub is so much easier to find, great if they work without problem.


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

thelightingguy said:


> Are those 170mm spacing rear wheels? If so, were there any problems mounting them?? The 170mm hub is so much easier to find, great if they work without problem.


190 mm rear. Slid in perfectly. The 135 mm front was a little but of a tight fit

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

I picked up my Dolomite yesterday and took it out for the first ride with my dog last night. 

My current bike stable consists of a Commencal Furious and a Commencal Meta 6. This big box store bike thing is a little new to me - I wanted something cheap to see if I would enjoy the Fat Bike thing...

After a single ride, the dolomite has served its purpose - A fatbike is perfect for my winter biking needs (Winnipeg, Canada winters get a little long).

I've searched everywhere I can think of and was wondering if anybody has upgraded the bottom bracket/crankset to an external bottom bracket bearing setup? I have several sets sitting around and am debating trying to modify one to see if it would work.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

30x100 bsa bb, cinch 190 spindle, xx1 168 qfactor bb30 crank.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tbonegreen said:


> ... anybody has upgraded the bottom bracket/crankset to an external bottom bracket bearing setup?...


After installing the $10 YST cup & bearings, I discovered that both the static and dynamic friction was very noticeably less than the Shimano external XT and XTR, and the dynamic was ever so slightly harder than the static, giving no slip-stick so it was very smooth too. (I'm 165 lbs but not enough muscle to push it hard. YRMV) 
Took away any real interest I had in finding a replacement.

That was properly adjusted and completely packed with _Permatex Ultra Slick Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease_, but this is my first application using that grease so only five months worth of riding (in sub-freezing & in summer) so no longevity idea yet. Same for the rubber seal between the cup and the spindle.

It takes the time to clean it out, grease and install the YST, then set the torque exactly right, but so far it's been trouble/attention/maintenance free.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414


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## mr pinga (Oct 8, 2005)

Did you face the BB shell before installing external BB? I faced mine as it was high in two spots. This is very important for external BBs to run smooth and last.

sent from my back yard


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

mr pinga said:


> Did you face the BB shell before installing external BB?...


yup
faced and threaded, with a scary expensive tool that I was taken to a shop to use


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

*BSA BB width?*



kidd said:


> 30x100 bsa bb, cinch 190 spindle, xx1 168 qfactor bb30 crank.


Nice, I picked up a used PF30 set from a different fatbike for a song and will try and make it work. Can you tell me what BB you used, and how wide it is including external bearings?


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

Where did u pick up the origin8 wheels w a 190mm rear hub?


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Went to my LBS and found the last one:










It is not the megarange, but at least I can still ride my bike while I checked with the warranty to send a replacement that I will use as a backup.

Total spent right now: +/- CAD $410.00 (+/- USD $353.00) with all upgrades and the freewheel.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

*Wheelset*

These wheels w the 190mm rear hub for the dolo, where did u pick them up?


Magnuts said:


> New Origin8 rims and hubs on my Dolomite. Still need to replace the rear brake and figure out what I'm going to do for the drivetrain
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

virtu said:


> Went to my LBS and found the last one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Installed the new freewheel and the wheel still spinning freely, now probably the problem is on the hub threads 

Calling the warranty...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

were you able to thread the freewheel on? Thats really strange that the threads are totally gone.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

blown240 said:


> were you able to thread the freewheel on? Thats really strange that the threads are totally gone.


Yes and also to took it off, but when I thread it on it never find a moment to be tighted, it is just like to always be threaded


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

it will thread on probably 10-15 turns. and then it will still slip a bit until its REALLY tight.


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

Got my Ibera frame bag in the mail today. Slapped it on and it fits pretty nice. 

I've had the bike out for 3 rides now on complete stock parts and it rides just fine. There are upgrades that I want to do, but I wouldn't hesitate to suggest this bike to anybody asking about it.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Gerfzilla said:


> These wheels w the 190mm rear hub for the dolo, where did u pick them up?


Saw a set like that with the correct spacing for the Dolo on ebay, seller is like 20min from my place up here in VT.

Origin8 at Pro 80 UL 26er Fat Bike Wheelset 190mm R 135mm F Spacing | eBay


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Gerfzilla said:


> These wheels w the 190mm rear hub for the dolo, where did u pick them up?


I picked them up off pinkbike from a guy in NH. Not sure where they came from originally.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

blown240 said:


> it will thread on probably 10-15 turns. and then it will still slip a bit until its REALLY tight.


Tried that and even if I spin more times, no way to engage 
I already called the warranty and they will send me a back wheel.

It will take no less then 2 weeks and no more then a month to receive, because they are out of stock.

Let's read a book


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tbonegreen said:


> Got my Ibera frame bag in the mail today. Slapped it on and it fits pretty nice. ...


I'm not quite sure. Am I seeing two zippers of the Large model (16x17x11) or is that the Medium (12x13x8) ?
Thanks,


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

Canoe said:


> I'm not quite sure. Am I seeing two zippers of the Large model (16x17x11) or is that the Medium (12x13x8) ?
> Thanks,


It is the large model. There are two zippers on the outside. One large pocket and one small pocket. Then a third zippered compartment inside the large pocket.


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## Wildbird99 (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello all,

I searched the forum and this thread and didn't find the answer to my question...

I am changing my wife's Dolo to a Shimano megarange, but also want to go with a smaller chainring in the front. She has a Trek 29er for most riding, so I want to set up the Dolo for sand/snow/some climbing (I also have OnOne Floaters on order). Any recommendations for which chainring to use? Any favorite brands/sizes? Should I just add a smaller one to keep the options open?

Thanks for any suggestions, and Happy New Year.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Wildbird99 said:


> ... I am changing my wife's Dolo to a Shimano megarange, ... Dolo for sand/snow/some climbing ... which chainring to use?...


First off, which megarange? (there are six models)


Canoe said:


> ..._which megarange? (13-28, 14-28, 12-32, 14-32, 11-34, 14-24)_


The model will determine which gears you have, hence what gear ratios you can have. If you look back through this thread to the Gear Inch charts, you can see where the gears for the stock Dolo fit. Then you can estimate from there, how much lower you'd like to go for her to be able to motor through snow, sand and be able to climb where you anticipate riding. There are charts that include some of the megaranges too, so you can see where they fit in with a stock front (36T), and with various other fronts.

Rather popular is to put a Mtb triple on the front 22-32-42T, and manually switch between the 32T and the 22T, depending on the terrain you're on that day. If it's a used one, it also gives you a very cheap way to test to see if that gives you what you're after, or if you'd want something, say at 28T or 25T.

The 34T megaranges are 'alpine' geared. A working range with a granny 34T on the end for bailout. If you get a non-riveted 34T megarange, then you can custom stack it to incorporate the 34T into a whole usable range, instead of it being a bailout. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-44.html#post11653394

This has been discussed many many times in this thread, although it's rather tedious to find it as the mtbr search misses so much. Google is your friend for searching mtbr.com.


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## Wildbird99 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks, Canoe.

I bought a Shimano MF-TZ31 14-34. She was only really using the first three gears when she rode the Dolo, so I wanted to give her a lower first. Now that she has a 29er for general riding -- and she is surprisingly fast on it -- I figured I can tailor the Dolo more toward being a sand/snow specialist.

I looked at the Gear Inch charts, but there's a theoretical-gear-inch-to-real-world-riding gap in my synapses. That's partially why I wanted to see what other people were using for a chainring. But I was also -- perhaps more-so -- wondering about any differences in brands, as well (machining quality/durability/price/etc.). There's a bunch of Dolo experience here that I figured I might be able to tap.

The triple sounds like a smart idea. Again: any specific ones that have or have not shown themselves to work well?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I think that even the links are posted to the triple cranks in this thread, they are on amazon and ebay all over the place. Really any cheap square taper will work. The 42T is kind of a bust, no need for a 21 speed heavy bike.










This is a shimano Altus, drilled out the rivets that connect the largest chain ring, works great, chain stays on no matter the rear gear or torque applied.

The single best thing you can do to the Dolo is take a few evenings and read Canoes thread the whole way through. So much info in here.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

By knowing what the stock Dolo does, in her case using the three lowest gears, you know that any gear inches above the four lowest are not likely to be used. 
So look at the chart, starting with the stock Dolo at the top (in blue). The three she used provided ~37.5 GI, 44 GI and 48 GI. 
(there are four single lines, yellow, green, dark blue & orange, showing the stock rear with different fronts, 34, 32, 30 & 28T)

So by looking at the gear inches for the three lowest stock Dolo gears, and knowing how much easier/harder they are relative to each other, you can estimate what you get from lower gears/gear-inches, and how far down (easy) that granny is.

The set of four lines with the light green background are for the 14-34T megarange. 
The blue on green shows the stock Dolo front with that megarange, pretty much the same as the stock dolo, except that the 28T is now a 34T, so _comparatively_ it's a huge gap to a granny at ~32 GI for bailout to get up a steep hill, but you loose what was the lowest gear on it was at a point you'd use. And 32 GI is not much of a low gear inches for a fat bike (hills, snow, soft sand, dunes, etc.)(particularly as she was only using the lowest three stock gears). 
In short, not good enough.

The next three green lines show the three triple rings for a standard Mtb 22-32-42T. 
Going down to 22T:
provides six choices between ~27 GI through ~46 GI, four of which are lower than the lowest stock gear, PLUS the granny bailout which has a massive mechanical advantage at ~19 GI. 
Or to put it another way: the three highest at this combo are each slightly lower than each of the three lowest stock gears, plus three choices lower than stock, plus the granny.
But this misses the highest GI she was using. 

At 32T from the triple:
within the six smooth choices, you'd have ~39 through ~67 GI, the upper end going much higher than she's used so far, PLUS the granny bailout down at a respectable ~27.5 GI. 
Or to put that another way: three gears roughly equivalent to the bottom three stock she uses now, plus three above those, plus the granny.

The 42T is so high, unlikely to be used. (if it's a cheap triple, you can grind the teeth off so it's a bash-ring that won't catch, else swap it out for a bash-ring)
So for hilly, soft terrain or most trails, run on the 22T. 
For getting to the trails, run on the 32T. 
A used Mtb triple lets you try it out. Once you've got one for a while, you may decide you want a 22-28T front, or a _______.

(chart repost)








(you can ignore the rest for now) Below those is a different megarange model, followed by four custom stacks, where the lowest isn't a granny, but the choices are spread across the range covered.

I got my triple from a bike recycle facility, so I was able to try several before I found one that cleared the chainstays nicely. Others on this thread have posted what models of triples, and others, that they have fit successfully.


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## Wildbird99 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks guys.

I read every thread I could find on the web before I got her the Dolo, so much that I couldn't remember what I had read where. I'll keep this thread marked as my go-to.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

HI Canoe, Found another way to add super low front chain rings without any machine and welding that I did to get a 16-25t front chain ring. You can buy some 170mm square taper crank arms for electric bicycles that a 16-19-22t freewheel threads on.
Crank arms. Cranks 170mm - Freewheel Crank Set, Sick Bike Parts
Front 16-19-22t freewheel. Bicycle Scooter Sprocket Wheel 3 Speed Freewheel Repair Part
And web article that can be used on the Dolomite if the crank arm clears the chain stays? How to get super-low gears on a bicycle Gary


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ... square taper crank arms for electric bicycles that a 16-19-22t freewheel threads on...


this is nuts
what's for? towing downhill bikes back to the top for another run?








Although it could pull a wagon full of water jugs around at Burning Man...


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Makes the Dolo so the fairer sex can even ride it with low air pressure 5psi in the tires in snow or soft sand...or what you said tow truck.

Oh yea I managed to find an older Shimano (looks nickel plated) mega range so I was able to build the 14-16-18-20-24-28-34 rear freewheel. bicycle junk yard Robert F. Snow & Son Bicycles and Supplies The Oldest Family Owned Bicycle SHop In THe USA


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ... I was able to build the 14-16-18-20-24-28-34 rear freewheel...]


Nice.
The 34T is sure nice but it's nice to have the 28T back in the mix. 
If you ever snag a 21 to swap in for the 20 you'll have an even smother progression, but you've hit the major improvement with your stack as it is.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Greased my hubs, bb and getting ready to check head. No grease in bb on my dolo nor my sons Massif. Difference after greasing and fine adjustments is insane! 

Thanks to everyone on this thread that pointed out those things....

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Stang951 said:


> ...Difference after greasing and fine adjustments is insane! ...


You won't believe how much a difference to the BB that the $10 YST cup & bearings make too...
Replace them before you wear the spindle out.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-45.html#post11662503


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I need pedals first. These little things suck! Ordering some fat red ones off amazon in a bit.

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Stang951 said:


> ... These little things suck! ...


Bwaa haa haaaaaaa
Watch out or you'll be doing that frequently and inching the total cost up quickly. 
Pick & choose.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> ... Oh yea I managed to find an older Shimano (looks nickel plated) mega range so I was able to build the 14-16-18-20-24-28-34 rear freewheel. ...


Pictures now!
Very nice.
I can't remember if I posted to treat the cogs for rust-proofing when you rebuild them. :blush:
I rubbed mine down with beeswax, then a light spray of Waxoyl Rust Inhibitor (colloquially "soft wax").


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Got any suggestions? I was looking at some relatively cheap plastic ones to keep the weight down. So far thinking about these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IVYVLS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

There's lots of pedals covered in other threads. 
The only frequent thing I've noticed in the recommendations is to get symmetrical pedals, so you're not playing around to orientate them, particularly if you lose your feet while riding. 

If you want to lose weight - and improve the ride - lose the stock tubes!
Gives the contact patch a better chance of conforming to the terrain, while wasting less energy while doing so. 
Other than that, and lighter/more-supple/better 120 tpi tires, limited benefit to going lighter.


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

I just received my Dolo, went together quick and easy and took a short spin on the beach. the soft stuff was hard to ride in, I did not lower the standard tire pressure. How low for beach riding would someone recommend for it?


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

By the way, I would never spend $2K for a bike to ride on the beach, this Dolo is great


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Tire PSI depends on your weight and how soft the terrain is you're riding on. 
You reduce tire pressure to get more contact patch onto the terrain for either more grip on a trail or more float on sand or snow (think snow shoe). As stated many times in this thread, including three posts above, lose the stock tube for a lighter one.

On a road or bike path you may be up as high as 15 PSI.
Most trails see people between 8 and 12 PSI.
Sand would typically be between 6 and 10 PSI, depends on your weigh and how soft the sand is. 
Snow could be as low as 3.5 PSI and as high as 8 PSI.

Check out this post, and the one three above it.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbike-floor-pump-944217.html#post11676246

And this will give you an idea too.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tire-pressure-mixed-terrain-943868.html


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I buy brand name bmx pedals usually off ebay. They tend to last a while. Metal is good for grip but when you slip say goodbye to the skin on your shins.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Just finished some work on the Dolo, and I have a couple of inches of fresh powder outside so hopefully I 'll be able to ride tomorrow! From the parts box I added Race Face Atlas bars (wider, lighter and stiffer than stock), a Truvativ Holzfeller stem (too short for my height on this bike but I need a 31.8mm clamp diameter placeholder for the no-name 90mm, 10° rise stem on the way from Taiwan) and ODI Ruffian lock-on grips. New from Amazon are a 34t Megarange freewheel, no-name red anodized non-QR seat collar (the stock QR collar is way too cheap and I see no need for on the fly seat height adjustments on a bike like this) and Shimano trigger shifter (the most expensive upgrade thus far at $16.95).


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Er...a couple of inches of fresh slush. Whomp whomp.


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks Canoe, going to try 10 at first, I am 180#s as soon as the rain stops likely next weekend for me I will try it


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

The rain stopped so I took a spin on the road, the lower gears keep changing on me and I noticed a lot of wobble in the cassete, is this my problem? can anyone help?


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## CannondaleF9 (Nov 17, 2012)

sandbike said:


> The rain stopped so I took a spin on the road, the lower gears keep changing on me and I noticed a lot of wobble in the cassete, is this my problem? can anyone help?


It's because you bought a cheap bike. 
Try adjusting the shifters and maybe it will solve the ghost shifting problem. As for the cassette, maybe it isn't tight enough on the hub (or the freewheel is bad). The cassette flex happens on my Raleigh, I still don't know what it is though.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

I Might be able to help you. First what have you changed on your bike since new?


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

rockonx2 thanks however I got there. I went back out and loosened the cable and readjusted the low end on the derailer, now it works great. Took it for a 30 minute run and all is really good. Love the bike, while I have not rode a bike in 40+ years this was cool. Only thing that was not comfortable was the seat or likely just me. Glad I went this route with the Dolo, really cool bike.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hope you have good time with your bike as much as most of us on this forum


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe, or anyone here that might know. got a question. The small screws coming out of the brake levers between the cable housing and handlebar, what are they for?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Waiting for my FR-7 removal tool to come in so i can replace my freewheel and get back out on the white tire bike. 









Had to ride the ladies rig today.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> Canoe, or anyone here that might know. got a question. The small screws coming out of the brake levers between the cable housing and handlebar, what are they for?


It's an adjustment for the starting/rest/"off" position of the brake lever. Screwing it in reduces the travel of the lever.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks Canoe. I removed mine as I thought they were for shipping. I can use all the brake lever travel.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

You may wish to search the internet to find a description on how to adjust brake calipers and levers.


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## dennispel (Jan 3, 2015)

Hello to all, new here. I got the Dolomite for christmas. Been looking at it for a while. Front and rear hubs greased. About to make an amazon order for a crankset and sealed bb. What special tool is needed to replace the bb?


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Depends on what bb you buy


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## dennispel (Jan 3, 2015)

YST sealed bearings


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Issues getting a cartridge type that fits. Recommend the $10 YST cup & bearings that is referenced several places in this thread.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-45.html#post11662503

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Removal-Square Spindle Type

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Adjustable Type Bottom Bracket Service


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## dennispel (Jan 3, 2015)

Hey thanks for the link. That $10 yst is the set I'm getting. thank you


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## thelightingguy (Dec 24, 2014)

*Experiment Failed*

So, the Samox PF30 for 100mm bottom brackets does NOT work, arm interference.








Guess it is going back on eBay.


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

I know it sucks for you, but that picture is worth 10,000 words. Thanks for posting. I'm sure many people will learn a lot from it.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Ok, Now the question is why are some so intent on swapping out the BB bottom bracket? What are the differences between stock and the up grade besides the bearing being sealed? I packed mine with grease when it was new and pushed some rubber O rings on the crank arm shaft as seals. Mine so far is very smooth with no play and or slop.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Because comparatively, a cartridge is low/no maintenance. And external sealed bearings must be even better, right?


Canoe said:


> Stang951 said:
> 
> 
> > ...Difference after greasing and fine adjustments is insane! ...
> ...


You will have to clean and fully grease them, and properly adjust them, and set the torque to keep them there (proper tools), but the difference over stock, and even the XT and XTR, is an OMG!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

thelightingguy said:


> So, the Samox PF30 for 100mm bottom brackets does NOT work, arm interference.
> View attachment 953320
> 
> 
> Guess it is going back on eBay.


Did you take measurements on the spacing of the crankarms at the frame and at the spindle?


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Sorry,  but for some reason I still don't understand what the big difference is. 
Minus the dirt seals, What is the difference: number of ball bearings? Doesn't the stock bottom bracket have internal bearing cups? Does the stock spindle have bearing races? How is the bearing cup/ bearings/ spindle bearing race set-up different from stock vs. YST besides yst's better quality components. I quess what I'm asking are all the parts in the yst set-up the same size as the stock set-up? Please explain besides (it is better). 
Is this similar to the stock dolo set-up
http://www.danscomp.com/install/Poverty_Euro_POW_Three-Piece_Crank_Install.pdf 
As always thanks in advance for any help


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Parts swap out for stock. You keep the spindle.
They fit with the stock spindle and BB shell. Very surprisingly, (with the grease I used), it works better than any BB I've ever tried, on a personal ride or demoed at an LBS; this doesn't make sense to me, but I'll enjoy it while it lasts. 
Presumably due to better steel, better machining, better grease, and its got a rubber seal against the spindle to help keep crap out. 
Follow the links already provided in post #1165.

I don't recall where on the net I found people swearing by the YST, but I'm sure you can google some info.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks Canoe


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Something I should make clear about torquing the YST BB bearings. 

With bearings, you usually tighten to a specified "pre-load" torque. In unusual cases, like on Volkswagen Beetle front wheels and Golf rear wheels, the specification is for zero pre-load with a specified play tolerance. For the YST, I used a zero pre-load tightening technique (tiny tighten, light finger pressure half-turn, repeat...), done carefully so there's actually zero play (not even the tiniest touch of play), then found that an ever so tiny pre-load, done by feel, provided the least spinning resistance. This was done at room temperature ~70F (room, bike, grease, parts). 

As usual, YRMV. 
Maybe I got a really sweet YST, but from posts on the web, this apparently happens a lot.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Great explanation of how to upgrade the BB. That is how I adjust a 1 piece crank, finger tight, wiggle ,turn crank a little, finger tighten again put on lock , check crank free play and spin feel. Common sense approach for this for this backyard mechanic. Canoe, funny you mentioned VW's as we have a Meyers Manx dune buggy.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Not common sense. A specific procedure taught to me for obtaining zero-play (instead of just being within a play tolerance) when the torque spec is for zero-preload.

Loose the wiggle.

After fully appling grease and engaging threads:
Gently, lightly, finger tight (finger firm is a better description);
very slow gentle partial rotation;
do NOT check for play;
repeat from step 1. Typically a fair number of times; more than one would expect.
You're done when step one doesn't tighten anymore.
Then you check for play. If you've got play, open, add grease, start at step 1 again. 
You might have to attempt this a few time before you get the correct feel for any given application, as weight of parts, orientation and plane of rotation are different.

Apparently you're trying to not disturb the grease, other that what occurs through the procedure. Supposed to ensure everything seats, exactly, gently, with no air voids in the grease (to minimize friction, maximize heat conduction, minimize possibility/rate of future contamination), while getting zero-play with zero-preload.

With the YST bearing, I got the best results with setting it to zero-preload with zero-play, then adding just a tiny tiny bit of preload torque.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

What you said. I am disturbing the grease. I loaded the bottom with grease with no air voids then put it back together and then hand forced grease on one side till it was coming out other side. Spun crank 20-30 times and readjusted for zero play. Every thing is fine.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Check this out..1st gear 16t chain ring 34t freewheel


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## captain voltaveus (Jan 9, 2015)

I have purchased one of these bikes after being really impressed with one that I rode around on at Burningman this past year. I had spent months chopping the frame of a cheap cruiser and decorating it with fur and lights and it looked killer - BUT one of our camp mates had a Dolomite and it was SO smooth out on the desert surface that I decided I needed one. I bet thousands of others will be doing the same this summer.









One of the tricky things about biking around Burningman is the need to have a really bomber kickstand situation as the winds get pretty gnarly at times.

Does anyone on this thread have a solution for a kickstand more bomber than the one it comes with out of the box?

Thanks


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

For the weight, the double sided ones you have on your other bikes would probably be the best. I would look to see if there are wider ones available, or if you could bend them slightly. Lot of cross sectional area for wind to hit on the dolo, especially when covered with fur. I'll never understand the need for fur at burningman.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I'd just lay it down on its side. My friend got a kickstand through her calf a long time ago and since then I've always advocated getting rid of them.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

For a more bomber kickstand look at the bottom of the kickstand in the first picture on first page of this thread.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

captain voltaveus said:


> ... One of the tricky things about biking around Burningman is the need to have a really bomber kickstand situation as the winds get pretty gnarly at times.
> Does anyone on this thread have a solution for a kickstand more bomber than the one it comes with out of the box?...


yup
The type in your photo.

plus add tennis balls on the ends
http://forums.mtbr.com/fatbikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-24.html#post11417524
View attachment 919325


First image: don't bother with this method - it's what someone was wasting their time on.
Second: Kiwanis Bike at Burning Man
Third: Dolo in the snow
Note: in some of the dust dunes, while fat bike tires will stay on top, even the tennis ball will sink in. So on some of the churned up roads you could get a surprise, but your feet have likely already sunk in. As some of those dunes are made of a lighter than talc dust, so near everything sinks in.

eplaya> bike threads> Elliot> http://forums.mtbr.com/fatbikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049131 has a specific kickstand he was recommending
Try eplaya threads _Bike Builders Unite_ and _Elliot's Bicycle Service & Piano Bar_. If You don't find it in either thread, ask in either (may be in a previous year's thread).
https://eplaya.burningman.com/viewtopic.php?f=286&t=39589
https://eplaya.burningman.com/viewtopic.php?f=403&t=72622

(there are some super heavy duty types, seen on some cargo bikes - usually custom - but you don't have the clearance from your BB to the rear tire for these types to fit. You could do a variation: think of the type in your photo, only with a horizontal bar at the bottom sticking out to the side. Would stick out like pegs when it's up, but the extra horizontal footprint will help contain the CofG - BUT, the kickstand has to be robust enough to take that extra force, particularly as the 'wings' aren't a single bar extending from one side to the other as we see in cargo bikes.)

However, unless you have a walk-in-the-park year, as 45 mph winds are common and you can get winds exceeding 75 mph, if you don't lay it down the wind will lay it down for you, but with what breakage...
There's better things to do with your Burn than having to stop to do repairs, but if you have to there's always repair camps, like _Elliot's Bicycle Service & Piano Bar_, or it's currently trending name of _Emperor Elliot's Bicycle & Beverage Emporium_, but better if you don't need repairs in the first place.

Do heed the BRC caution about where to NOT leave your bike. You don't want it run over by an Art Car or Mutant Vehicle. I assume you've got a light or two high up on those tails.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

There is some talk about the quality of this freewheel,but I think it offers a better gearing solution than the Shimano. The SunRace 13-34 8 speed. It eliminates the big jump from 24 to 34 tooth. http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-Freewheel-Speed-13-34-Teeth/dp/B002R659AQ/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Now to find a shimano derailleur compatible 8 speed trigger shift


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

Amazon.com : Shimano SL-M310 Acera Shifter Right (8 Speed) : Bike Shifters And Parts : Sports & Outdoors


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## captain voltaveus (Jan 9, 2015)

Canoe said:


> yup
> The type in your photo.
> 
> plus add tennis balls on the ends
> ...


Oh yes, it would be fair to say there were some lights in the tails, as well as the wheels and frames. A total of 7 separate battery packs infact...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

steve1324 said:


> There is some talk about the quality of this freewheel,but I think it offers a better gearing solution than the Shimano. The SunRace 13-34 8 speed. It eliminates the big jump from 24 to 34 tooth. http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-Freewheel-Speed-13-34-Teeth/dp/B002R659AQ/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt


People can't read your mind: you think this SunRace 13-34T 8 speed is better than the 34T Shimano Megaranges, as they are an "alpine" gearing, droping the 28T for a 34T granny gear. 
Smoothed gear choices be achieved by the recommended custom stack of a 34T Shimano, so you're not using questionable parts.

And as you posted but deleted, some use the 8 speed freewheel with a 7 speed shifter as the spacing is the same, you just can't reach the 13T. Don't know if this 8 speed fits on a Dolo.

Check recent posts, as we covered this, again.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

$239 at Walmart now, still free shipping


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

j.rex said:


> ... during my efforts to go tubeless on the rear, the surly Lou has stretched out a bit and is now rubbing on the chain stays...


Which Lou: the 27 TPI or the 120 TPI?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I've edited the very first post of this thread to have a bit of an index, so it's somewhat easier for people to find key info.

And I've gathered various measurements from throughout the thread and added them to post #15. Please let me know of any errors or omissions.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

After owning the Dolomite for only 2 weeks, I have sold it.
I bought the bike to see if I would enjoy fat biking in the snow - I've had a blast, and its time to upgrade. The Dolomite has served its purpose.

To anybody on the fence of picking one up - go for it. I would not hesitate to recommend this bike as a "cheap" bike to anybody.

Things to know:

-This bike is heavy! I have a Commencal Furious (Downhill/Freestyle bike) with downhill tubes and all bomb proof parts (its not design to be light) and the Dolomite feels twice as heavy as the Furious. I am a big guy, and didn't have an issue pedaling it around, but gearing down would go a long way.

-You WILL have a smile on your face when you are riding this bike. (as long as you have proper air pressure in the tires, and you are geared low enough!)


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Hey guys just wanted to update everyone on my freewheel situation. So I ended up ordering the 8 speed Sunrace megarange 13-34T. This one has the 28T second gear as a nice step down.

I only ordered the freewheel, no new shifter or derailleur. So I only use gears 1-7 and not the eighth so it ends at 15t instead of 8th gear being 13T, no real need on this bike! The nice thing though is that all I had to do was install the part and ride. No derailleur adjustments needed to be made. I put the bike up on my stand and brought out all my tools and on the first try it went into all the gears freely with the stock shifter!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Canoe said:


> I've edited the very first post of this thread to have a bit of an index, so it's somewhat easier for people to find key info.
> 
> And I've gathered various measurements from throughout the thread and added them to post #15. Please let me know of any errors or omissions.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929


Great work, thanks for all the time and effort you have put into this thread!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

And many thanks to all of those who contributed for all of us to learn from!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... So I ended up ordering the 8 speed Sunrace megarange 11-34T. This one has the 28T second gear as a nice step down. ...


Can you confirm the gears on that stack?
Link?


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Canoe, here's one Sunrace 8 Speed Freewheel 13 34T Shimano HG Compatible Silver Black | eBay

If you click on his link and scroll down there are several freewheel to see
Sunrace 8 Speed Freewheel 13 34T Shimano HG Compatible Silver Black | eBay


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

That one is well known. 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34T
From posts as far back as in the 200s?
Only gives us 15-34T. Smooth, but not the fullest range. Works for some.

And there's an 8x 11-32T from DNP for 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,32T; for a useful 7x progression from 13 through 32T. And I've seen one that goes to 34T, 11,13,15,18,21,24,28,34T for a 7x of 13-34T.
(Their 7x version is only an Alpine with a granny 11,13,15,18,21,24,32T. 
The Sunrace 7x 14-34T is also an Alpine.)

There's a DNP 7x 11,13,15,18,21,24,30, but 24-30 is still a but of a jump and no 34T, so you'd need a lower front to make 11-30T fully useful for a fat tires in hills or soft terrain/conditions. So if you're going trails, hills or soft terrain/conditions, that rules out the cheap & easy Mtb triple, 22-32-42T. 

But I don't have a record of a Sunrace 8x 11-34T.

With the scarcity of the Shimano freewheels that aren't riveted so you can custom stack them. More consideration will have to go to the above selections. Even if you buy a spare to have when the first wears out (as they allegedly do, relatively quickly compared to the Shimano) so you can replace it before it wears the chain too far and hence the chainring. 

If only the Dolo used a hub that took cassettes...

sigh...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sorry fellas, it is the 13-34, just wanted to let people know that it was a simple swap without needing adjustment. I'll edit my earlier post.

More riding today, we have a fun loop going up here.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> Sorry fellas, it is the 13-34,...


Too bad. Would have been nice.
But since you're running 15-34T nicely spaced (not alpine with granny), do report back on if you find you are or are not missing having a 14T or 13T on the end.

In other somewhat sad news: I can't see anyway of running Dolo/Beast rims as DIY tubeless. The seat is narrow and slopes towards the center of the rim, with a large dropoff. :sad: Maybe someone else can figure a way.

Shows why it's such a b**** to seat tires.









Would have to find an extrusion that would provide a flat & level seat, and then epoxy it in place. That or a full shelf that went side to side, turning it into a double-wall.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Check this out

http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mt...your-fat-bike-to-tubeless-using-a-split-tube/


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thanks, but that's my split tube on the right in the photo.

The seat is:
not flat
not level
seriously sloped to the inside
has filleted/curved edges
I didn't think to look at the seat before gathering supplies to go tubeless. :madman:

PITA just to get any tire even upon inflation. No way a bead setup tubeless is going to stay there at other than high PSI, if that. It takes a tube to hold it there. Without a tube to support the load from the tire, all of the load is back to the tire bead onto the (sloped) seat... where it will promptly slide off.

Considering adding a 24" tube inside split-tube tubeless setup, just to see if it will hold the bead up on the seat. Two narrow 24" tubes side-by-side may do that better...

In the meantime, I'm going to pull my front 47mm trials wheel out of storage and go STT on it with one of these.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ...Considering adding a 24" tube inside split-tube tubeless setup, just to see if it will hold the bead up on the seat. Two narrow 24" tubes side-by-side may do that better...


Looks like one regular 24" tube would do that with the 47mm rim. And two regular 24" tubes for the Dolo/Beast 100mm.

On the 47mm, do this with my Larry, and with its narrow bead (narrower than the stock Dolo tire) this may work out well. I might even have a suitable 24" tube among my BM giveaway stock.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

omg
a Q-tube 20x1.75-2.125" Schrader inflated and pushed a Larry up onto the seat of the 47mm trials rim.

Tons of low pressure space between that tube and the bulk of the tire, waiting for a SST to make a tight mechanical seal between the tire bead and the tube on seat, then inflate that space.

Now, to work out how to get the small tube's value out through the SST while maintaining the SST seal. The trials rim is cutout, so I might need to do this experiment on the Dolo rim so I have solid rim to pull a seal to.

(how am I going to explain why my Dolo wheel has three valves... Of course! Because the tire is so large!)


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

Did some drilling this weekend, came out nice, have On-One Floaters and Vee Rubber V8's on order, what ever gets here first goes on with Q-tubes to stuff them
.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I like the center holes, can you post up the template you used/made ?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

That looks nicely done. 
(You can see where the nipple holes aren't perfectly matched side to side. Leaving lots of material like that means it's still strong enough.)

What size of hole?


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

I used a playing card, the ace of hearts I think, and made a template where I made holes over each spoke nipple and measured half way between the holes, then made another hole for a sharpie to mark the center of the rim. I drilled pilot holes at each sharpie mark and used a 1 1/4" bi-metal hole saw to cut the larger holes.

You can find more information at this Mongoose FB page:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

@ canoe...1 1/4' holes, using a Bi-Metal hole saw & duralube spray lube before drilling and half way through each hole. I then cleaned up the edges with a de-burring tool.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Careful with that method. Distance between spoke holes can vary, as one side ring of holes is usually slightly offset from the other side's ring of holes. If a particular Dolo's rims have a larger offset, the holes could end up off.

You can use the type of template I used (for offset holes, not as nice looking) to check your nipple holes for offset. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-40.html#post11619174

However you manage it, you want the holes evenly spaced from each other for a good appearance.

Edit: perfect! The photo I was going to ask for. (That facebook page doesn't show for me. Wants me to log in.) Could you post a photo of how the area around the valve stem hole works out? And possibly showing your template in place on a rim?

Edit: added to the first post index.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I added some Race face bars and adjustable stem recently, along with avid brake levers. Total for parts about $40 from blueskycycling's bargin bin. They feel nice, I don't know if I posted any clear pics of them yet. Also added new shimano brake cable and white sheaths, after about 5 long trips on salty roads with my cars tires shooting salt and brine at the Dolo the first set brake cable were starting to corrode.










We live right near some large quarries so no need to mess with the salty streets anymore.



















And some of the non-groomed parts of the trail system.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Careful with that method. Distance between spoke holes can vary, as one side ring of holes is usually slightly offset from the other side's ring of holes. If a particular Dolo's rims have a larger offset, the holes could end up off.


Truthfully I was not all that concerned, I didn't want to do a thousand dollars of engineering on a $200.00 bike, this is my fun project bike, I was more concerned that the holes ended up centered BETWEEN the spokes than their positioning on the rim, no one is going to be able to eyeball a slight difference in the way the holes line up, but it might just pay off to have the additional strength. For the holes on each side of the valve stem I used a 7/8" Uni-bit and made them a bit smaller, not because it was needed, but just to be different. I'm not worried that a 1 1/4 hole will be a problem but this just may accent the valve stem and the special treatment I'm going to use on the stems. I don't think I have any photos of the template on the rim to provide.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

With 1 1/4" holes running down the middle, you've got tons of material left in yours. That's why the precise position wouldn't matter. (Some of the rims turned out have a larger offset, one side vs. the other, so it would matter) And as a bonus, you made nice holes, so their edge don't have a stress riser. 

That's there's lots of material left with the 1 1/4" holes, means people can take care to evenly space the holes for a good appearance, without worrying about not being positioned exactly symmetrical to the holes if their rim's nipple holes have a large offset.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

Indeed! On-One Floaters have shipped my way and soon the bike will be back in action, looking forward to evaluating the difference the tire, tube, rim treatments, YST Sealed BB Bearings, BB7 brakes, suspension seat post, & MegaRange gears make. Might be time to quit wrenching and start riding!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Fatboy Jim said:


> ... Might be time to quit wrenching and start riding!


heretic!
shhhhhhhhhhhh


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> omg a Q-tube 20x1.75-2.125" Schrader inflated and pushed a Larry up onto the seat of the 47mm trials rim. ... Now, to work out how to get the small tube's value out through the SST while maintaining the SST seal. ...)


o.k. then

Apparently the above, updated by adding a containing tire, isn't 'my' idea, but is called a TUbliss. :blush:


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Love this forum! Changed to Bell memory foam seat, Zoom neck, BMX pedals, regressed all bearings and now the Dolo ride awesome. The more upright position is great. A very short ride was painful, but now I can ride for 45 minutes before I start aching. 

I do have to replace the seat again because it is leaning to one side, but it could be damaged from the previous bike I took it off.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

I just purchased a Dolomite and want to immediately go tubeless using stock tires/rims . I plan on using the Scotch tough brand clear duct tape method { cause its lighter then gorilla tape} and stans tire sealant. Has anyone did this with success ? Also, how many millimeter no tubes valve will I need to use ? 

Is it possible to do this using 3" wide fatbike tires instead of 4" wide ? I wasnt sure if the sidewalls on a 3" wide tire would expand enough to lock onto the bead of the rim and stay secure.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Highly doughtfull you'll find success with that. For a stock Dolomite I think I would just upgrade the tires and run 26" downhill tubes.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

skota23 said:


> Highly doughtfull you'll find success with that. For a stock Dolomite I think I would just upgrade the tires and run 26" downhill tubes.


I had searched the internet , and didnt see anyone claiming they were able to do tubeless with stock dolomite rims, so I figured it may not be possible. Thanks.

Anyone know of a good sale on fatbike tires that weigh less then stock ones ?

Is it possible to use 3" wide fatbike tires on the dolomite rim, to save weight ?


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Floaters are really popular, anything 120tpi will be very light compared to the stock tires. It's really about preference, whether you want a snow tire or something for hard dirt, or just cruising..


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

ou2mame said:


> Floaters are really popular, anything 120tpi will be very light compared to the stock tires. It's really about preference, whether you want a snow tire or something for hard dirt, or just cruising..


I wont be driving on snow at all....mostly road cruising , and some light trails.

What would you suggest ?


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

If you're gonna be on road I wouldn't get the floaters cause they will wear quickly cause they are so soft. I'd look at the h-billies and maybe even the missions would work for your use without spending too much money. I have the Devist8ers and like them, but they might be too aggressive for the street.


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## bepperb (Mar 26, 2004)

sunnyday said:


> I wont be driving on snow at all....mostly road cruising , and some light trails.
> 
> What would you suggest ?


You can get new takeoff Vee Missions so cheap on Ebay and the like, and for light trails they'll do. I think I've seen them under 50 a pair shipped.

That would be a much better upgrade than tubeless on the stock tires, both in weight, traction and ride quality. The missions get bad reviews for snow and trail performance, but I have 100 miles on a pair and they'll do on roads and flowy trails. That being said my OnOne floaters arrive Monday... but I ride mostly snow.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

bepperb said:


> You can get new takeoff Vee Missions so cheap on Ebay and the like, and for light trails they'll do. I think I've seen them under 50 a pair shipped.
> 
> That would be a much better upgrade than tubeless on the stock tires, both in weight, traction and ride quality. The missions get bad reviews for snow and trail performance, but I have 100 miles on a pair and they'll do on roads and flowy trails. That being said my OnOne floaters arrive Monday... but I ride mostly snow.


Thanks.

I did a quick check on ebay and the internet, and currently didnt see anything in that price range for a set of the missions....they seem to be priced much higher .


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

sunnyday said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I did a quick check on ebay and the internet, and currently didnt see anything in that price range for a set of the missions....they seem to be priced much higher .


Look in the fat bike section on the forum for (mongoose vinson thread), same page as this thread is located. Everyone in there is talking about upgrading their tires already. Just PM one of those guys and I'm sure they would love to sell the stockers for a good deal.


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## mike716 (Jan 22, 2015)

Longtime lurker, figured I'd contribute. This model is $191.99 at walmart right now:

26" Mongoose Dolomite Men's 7-speed All-Terrain Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red - Walmart.com

Same price at target too, but they are charging a $30 handling fee.

Free shipping on the walmart one, pretty much the cheapest I think it's been going for.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I see them pop up a lot on the fat bike trader facebook group


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

sunnyday said:


> ...Is it possible to do this using 3" wide fatbike tires instead of 4" wide ? I wasnt sure if the sidewalls on a 3" wide tire would expand enough to lock onto the bead of the rim and stay secure.


> 3" vs 4"
3.7, 3.8 tires are called 4" tires
4.5, 4.7 tries are called 5" tires

actual 3" tires
> aren't fat tires
> probably haven't got a hope in hell of sealing tubeless on 100mm rims

So, for fat bike 4" vs 5", you are looking at which tire for which terrain under which conditions: for grip and/or float.

Not all 4" fat tires are recommended for 100mm rims. Surly Larrys are not, but mine works fine - so far - when I threw one on the front for nicer steering in the summer.

For weight savings, lose the stock tube for a tube used for the 5" tires. Then don't worry about wheel weight.

You get nicer tires to get a nicer ride, be it for lower roll resistance or better grip or better float for the terrain/conditions you'll be riding in. Bonus is that they'll be lighter.

Missions are selling for low dollars. They don't get a lot of love anymore.
LBS here is all but trying to give Missions away - no one wants them.

You're going to have to check out other threads if you want to get technical, or just get the on-one floaters the next time they're on sale.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Is there anywhere that actually has one of these on the floor? Checked Walmart and Target today and no dice.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I'm working on finding a foam that will give enough height (and last), and a method of installing that foam, to get the stock tires to seat tubeless. Both for the methods using tape (like helicopter tape so there's no seam exposed to sealeant) and for split-tube. Doesn't look promising, but it looks plausible, so it might be possible. 

The only reason to do this with stock tires is so those who can't afford better can get the better roll, better grip and better float that comes with going tubeless.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Shinkers said:


> Is there anywhere that actually has one of these on the floor? Checked Walmart and Target today and no dice.


Some locations do, but not many. 
You can check one out that way, but don't buy it. 
Buy one online and get it shipped to you (or that store) in the box so you can grease and properly torque everything before you (or the customers in the store or the guys out back) ride it for the first time.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Canoe said:


> I'm working on finding a foam that will give enough height (and last), and a method of installing that foam, to get the stock tires to seat tubeless. Both for the methods using tape (like helicopter tape so there's no seam exposed to sealeant) and for split-tube. Doesn't look promising, but it looks plausible, so it might be possible.
> 
> The only reason to do this with stock tires is so those who can't afford better can get the better roll, better grip and better float that comes with going tubeless.


Hope you figure something out. I dont like the idea of using a tube , as a liner to go tubeless, because it keeps the weight of the tube involved. The clear tape is supposed to be strong and weigh less then the gorilla tape.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Canoe said:


> I'm working on finding a foam that will give enough height (and last), and a method of installing that foam, to get the stock tires to seat tubeless. Both for the methods using tape (like helicopter tape so there's no seam exposed to sealeant) and for split-tube. Doesn't look promising, but it looks plausible, so it might be possible.
> 
> The only reason to do this with stock tires is so those who can't afford better can get the better roll, better grip and better float that comes with going tubeless.


I feel like that's just a bad idea. You've got a poor quality rim and a poor quality tire.. Why risk it? These tires are bricks they aren't going to roll well regardless. 80-90 bucks will get you a good set.. If you can't afford them yet, just leave it as it is until to can.


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Exactly what I was thinking of doing. However looking on the website it appears that no locations near me stock one .



Canoe said:


> Some locations do, but not many.
> You can check one out that way, but don't buy it.
> Buy one online and get it shipped to you (or that store) in the box so you can grease and properly torque everything before you (or the customers in the store or the guys out back) ride it for the first time.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

sunnyday said:


> Hope you figure something out. I dont like the idea of using a tube , as a liner to go tubeless, because it keeps the weight of the tube involved. The clear tape is supposed to be strong and weigh less then the gorilla tape.


You need to do more research. The gorilla tape has the highest failure rate of all the methods. 
Some people like using tape, others split-tube. Split tube has the greatest success rate, likely due to it being thicker from the start so it increases the effective rim seat diameter in those rims where the seat is, or is close to, tubeless-ready. If you haven't got a good mechanical seal to start with, sealant won't create one.
With the tape you're considering, I believe you're heading in a good direction. But you'll have seams that the sealant may work on the adhesive at (like the bulk of the Gorilla Tape failures). Tape that is fully wide enough so you don't have seams, except for the one well overlapped wrap end when it's wrapped around, has much better chance of success. Higher cost though. As you recognized, bonus is lighter weight.

I'm hoping to find a foam that will allow both camps to get it work on the Dolo rim. With the stock tube would be a bonus.

There's no point in debating different tubeless methods in this thread. Head over to Tubeless Tuesday. You're in good hands there.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> I feel like that's just a bad idea. You've got a poor quality rim and a poor quality tire.. Why risk it? These tires are bricks they aren't going to roll well regardless. 80-90 bucks will get you a good set.. If you can't afford them yet, just leave it as it is until to can.


Because if they can be made to work tubeless, then for those without that extra money they can be made to roll better, grip better and float better.

And, because you get to see if it can be done... tinker factor.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I just wouldn't recommend it to the average user because it can leave them stranded as far out as their willing to trust their setup lol


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I had a bent rear axle on my dolo since day one. Pacific sent me a full new rear rim today, so i think since I have a few spare stock dolo tires I might play this tubeless game with you guys. Ill report back, but I was going to try the split tube/liquid latex method. I ditched that after ordering my floaters and q tubes, but I have all the parts laying around somewhere.


Earlier in this thread the guy who posted his White Dolo from either NZ or Australia, I have forgotten which. He gave me a tubeless recipe and if I recall correctly it was something he was using on stock rims and tires, and he was riding in the desert terrain with lots of thorns/cacti .


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

ou2mame said:


> I just wouldn't recommend it to the average user because it can leave them stranded as far out as their willing to trust their setup lol


Which is true for every use and every setup. 
If someone is going out on a trail with a Dolo, they'd better have tuned it up appropriately, know how to ride trails safely, and know how to survive in that environment/weather/conditions.

And for tubeless, the standard recommendation is to carry a spare tube, just to get you home if all else fails.

p.s.
One of the interesting things about tubeless, and not just DIY getto tubeless but tubeless-ready rims, is that in winter rims often need a thin layer of tape on the rim between the rim and the tire before they'll get a good seal. This may be a decoupling layer for the expansion/contraction from thermal cycling, or it may provide something that better conforms with physical imperfections between the two surfaces while sealing thoroughly with the rim, or both, or something entirely different... but that there's something there, other than sealant, is a very common denominator.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... He gave me a tubeless recipe and if I recall correctly it was something he was using on stock rims and tires, and he was riding in the desert terrain with lots of thorns/cacti .


Hopefully he will report what worked for him.

There's lots of recipes. I've gone through most of that crazy brew thread (just missing a part closer to the front). Started from the front, then jumped to the end and worked back. Made a spreadsheet of the different recipes, so I could compare ingredients and what they brought to the purpose. The goal, met by a number of the recipes, is to seal as well as the commercial sealants, last longer, cheaper, seal faster, seal larger, fewer boogers. They've achieved the first three and are working improving on the last three. The emphasis is on OSS (Open Source Sauce), just because it doesn't use a commercial sealant as an ingredient. But the WSS (Wadester Secret Sauce) is popular with the rubber crumb in the Slime ingredient. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tire-sealant-933578-2.html#post11634728

And we're seeing more and more people not running with sealant when riding in snow. Usually just a bit for getting a seal when they do the install.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

And someone has already used one of the tubeless options I am considering in place of foam: Coroplast.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-foam-rim-wrap-941498.html#post11629885


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Canoe said:


> And someone has already used one of the tubeless options I am considering in place of foam: Coroplast.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-foam-rim-wrap-941498.html#post11629885


Is it possible to use some type of spray in thick expanding foam , that is dense ?


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

sunnyday said:


> Is it possible to use some type of spray in thick expanding foam , that is dense ?


they do that at construction sites with things like wheel barrows. Use stuff like "great stuff", but then you lose the flexibility of the tire, since it fills the tire completely.

how about something like
https://www.getflexseal.com


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Just grabbed my Dolo from wally world today. $191 and I opted for the cheaper delivery not site to store. Should come in Tuesday, been following this thread since the bike came out!

I thought about the bikesdirect Bullseye Monster $500 bikes and the newer triple chainring Vinson for the same price but there is something about building your own bike up. I may love the dolo and then sell it with a few upgrades for most likely what I paid for it, or I may stick with it as i don't anticipate the Dolo being my fulltime MTB steed. But for $191 you just cant go wrong. You may break a few things that are pretty easy to upgrade but it isn't like you are going to get soaked on the bike. I am sure this is plenty capable with drilled rims, new tubes and tires as is. At that point with not much money into the bike folks can make a decision to grab an alluminum framed, better spec'd, properly fit frame bike. I was even thinking of going to town and grab that automotive wheel spray that you can peel off to customize a few bits here and there.
Long time subscriber to this thread, definitely a decent frame to build off of, now for LESS than the price of a beast.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Canoe thanks again for changing your first post to help filter out a few must have upgrades.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

In addition my initial intent with the bike is primarily for beach riding. I surfcast and occasionally I have long walks up and down sandy shores or to and from parking sites. This would be a serious time saver if it in fact can roll well in the sand for me.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Does anyone know the bottom bracket size on the dolomite ? I didnt see it listed in this thread.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

sunnyday said:


> Is it possible to use some type of spray in thick expanding foam , that is dense ?


There are two retail formulations: one that's rigid and one that flexes. The rigid type would fracture; no rebound. The flexible type wouldn't take the load well, and has limited rebound. 
There are various structural foams (even in spray bombs - at least there used to be 15 years ago) that can take larger loads, but I don't want something that's sprayed on. I want something that won't gum up rim-strip or nipples, easily installed and removable. Bonus is something that can be reused, or even left in place, when you change tires.

I have an order in for some high-density closed-cell foam (way denser than sill-plate gasket) with very good spring-back, in a suitable thickness. I had a sample in my hand earlier today in a thinner thickness, and it was way better than the sample of another product I took with me to compare to. We'll see how that goes, but I'm suspecting that it will work - and work well - for both split-tube and tape:
> looks ideal for my 47mm rims. 
> should be good for 100mm rims, but no idea how the stock tube will behave...
May mean I won't have an excuse to play with the more exotic solutions, and will have to go ride my bike.

BB> difficulty getting a replacement that's wide enough for the chain to clear the tires. Best bet seems to be the stock spindle and the YST BSA-size cup & bearings. See the first page for the links. It's magic when you grease and torque it correctly. And with the hubs on these, you may as well learn how to do that.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

Canoe (and many other Dolo tinkers), thank you for the informative thread. It's been a great help for a new Dolo owner. If you have the time or the inclination, it would be great to see it as a Faq or a blog. Looking forward to doing many more modifications to my Dolo, keep up the great work Guys. :thumbsup:


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dmccorm said:


> ... it would be great to see it as a Faq ...


Started.
Check the first post of the thread.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

Hi Canoe, yes I saw that. Much appreciated. Just a little lost in some of the links. As a thread it's quite a weave as you already know. 

Now for a real question. Anyone have some disassembly guidance on the bottom bracket specifically to the Dolo other than the link to the Park Tool video. Just a little squeamish on the disassembly/reassembly. I plan to install the YST set. I was able to tackle the Shimano Megarange upgrade fairly easily.

Anyone actually try the sealed bearing cartridge 100mm square taper on the Dolo yet, or did I miss that post?


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

Could you give me the details on the 24 tooth gear you added? I want to add this to my bike, but want to be sure I get the proper gear. I see on Amazon there 4 and 5 bolt versions and I want to be sure I get the proper bolt pattern for the 5 bolt gear.
Thanks


momikey said:


> So the Dolo ended up getting delivered a day early and made it in great shape, no dents on the box. After a regrease and adjustment of the wheels/brakes things seemed alright. I replaced the cup seals with the recommended upgrade $10 amazon part and the axle rolls much easier. After that was done I added the 24T sprocket to lighten the load up on my legs. This thing is awesome and I rarely need to drop below 3rd gear on hills. All and all I have an extra $25 into this bike and I was all over hardpack inclined trails today making me think this thing will be fine on snow. I also received one of the newer models that has a different set of tires than the first editions. Tires are about 2lbs lighter each (2200grams each) not great but much more aggressive tread.
> 
> I really enjoyed having this thing to ride the past few days.
> 
> ...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dmccorm said:


> ... Now for a real question. Anyone have some disassembly guidance on the bottom bracket specifically to the Dolo other than the link to the Park Tool video. ... Anyone actually try the sealed bearing cartridge 100mm square taper on the Dolo yet, or did I miss that post?


You need proper tools, particularly for getting the torque correct - and locked that way - upon reassembly, but you don't need the quality of the Park Tools, but they are a nice indulgence. Just follow through the steps. Take your time to get it clean. Worth it to get the torque exactly right.

Someone did try a sealed cartridge, but they didn't think to measure, so they got the standard part instead of the extra wide part. But from the YST post (link on the first post), check the bottom where the supplier's widest part doesn't match the Dolo spindle width. That said, somewhere I saw someone said they got a cartridge onto a Beast or a Dolo, but no follow up was given. With the YST working so well (YST Bearings on Dolo), I haven't pursued it further.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Here's a question from a taller rider that was sent to me by PM. I gave it my best guess, but perhaps taller Dolo riders can post what worked for them with this one-size frame.



Canoe said:


> sunnyday said:
> 
> 
> > Im tall and need to get the handle bars higher on my dolomite...
> ...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

johnfe said:


> Could you give me the details on the 24 tooth gear you added? I want to add this to my bike, but want to be sure I get the proper gear. I see on Amazon there 4 and 5 bolt versions and I want to be sure I get the proper bolt pattern for the 5 bolt gear.
> Thanks


Yea I should have updated that post. The stock Dolo crank are(at least mine) was not completely straight. So every rotation, some of the stock teeth were closer to the frame at the top and then the bottom were further away. This lead to a chain wobble at high pedal rotations. When I put on the smaller cog, it made the wobble a little worse. So once I saw how cheap an entire new square taper crankset was, I ordered one for each bike. 22/32/42 and for the wife's bike I took off the 42.









this one was $25 when I ordered it, I'm sure you can find it that price on ebay or the likes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y5HCNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

dmccorm said:


> Hi Canoe, yes I saw that. Much appreciated. Just a little lost in some of the links. As a thread it's quite a weave as you already know.
> 
> Now for a real question. Anyone have some disassembly guidance on the bottom bracket specifically to the Dolo other than the link to the Park Tool video. Just a little squeamish on the disassembly/reassembly. I plan to install the YST set. I was able to tackle the Shimano Megarange upgrade fairly easily.
> 
> Anyone actually try the sealed bearing cartridge 100mm square taper on the Dolo yet, or did I miss that post?


I think this was covered a few times in the thread, I dont know how canoe posts links to previous posts but if someone can fill me in on how to do that I will link it for you. I used a monkey wrench and quick grip hand vice, tapping with a hammer cant get more basic than that.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... I dont know how canoe posts links to previous posts but if someone can fill me in on how to do that I will link it for you. ...


Fairly easy. 
If you look at your last post, in the top bar it gives the time/age of the post on the left and on the far right the post number (#1258). If you click on that number, it adds a reference to that post onto the address bar of your browser (which also aligns your browser page to that post). Copy and paste that address into a post.

Or, in firefox I can right click on that number and "copy link location", then paste that into a post.

Where the forum software decides that's an URL

The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 51- Mtbr.com

stripped down so you can see the text 
"dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-51.html#post11722427"

It would be nice if I knew how to specify a text to a link, instead of the one the forum posts, so we could see something more meaningful than "The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite", although for your post I'm seeing the page added on the end.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

momikey said:


> I think this was covered a few times in the thread, I dont know how canoe posts links to previous posts but if someone can fill me in on how to do that I will link it for you. I used a monkey wrench and quick grip hand vice, tapping with a hammer cant get more basic than that.


I used a pipe wrench and an adjustable wrench on mine. Worked just fine.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

OK I see what you are saying

Second edition tires and dimensions

Looks like you can add text, just add a bracket before the last URL and type what you would like 
info here!


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

momikey said:


> Yea I should have updated that post. The stock Dolo crank are(at least mine) was not completely straight. So every rotation, some of the stock teeth were closer to the frame at the top and then the bottom were further away. This lead to a chain wobble at high pedal rotations. When I put on the smaller cog, it made the wobble a little worse. So once I saw how cheap an entire new square taper crankset was, I ordered one for each bike. 22/32/42 and for the wife's bike I took off the 42.
> 
> View attachment 958159
> 
> ...


Ok, I like this idea. Just found and ordered one. Has anyone added a particular front derailleur and rapid fire shifter for the Dolo, or are you just doing the manual switch?


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Is the plastic shield behind the gearset really needed? broke the one on an older bike, forgot to put it on my son's Massif and think it looks alot cleaner without it.


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

Thank you! I was at my LBS and they had a take off crankset with a 22t on it for 7 bucks, so I went that route too. I'll add a larger gear at some point to go with it, but I'm good for now in the snow. (Just need some more snow) Gotta eat lunch and then take it out for a spin.


momikey said:


> Yea I should have updated that post. The stock Dolo crank are(at least mine) was not completely straight. So every rotation, some of the stock teeth were closer to the frame at the top and then the bottom were further away. This lead to a chain wobble at high pedal rotations. When I put on the smaller cog, it made the wobble a little worse. So once I saw how cheap an entire new square taper crankset was, I ordered one for each bike. 22/32/42 and for the wife's bike I took off the 42.
> 
> View attachment 958159
> 
> ...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea we switch over manually, no derailleur or front shifter added, but a few people on the Facebook group have gone that route. And Johnfe I only need the 22 plus the 7 in the back for all my hilly snowy terrain so it sounds like you got a nice deal!


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

Momikey, I think you're right about just using the 22. My plan is mostly snow riding, but I'll try to find a take off larger gear just so I have it for pavement, but I tend to be a high RPM rider so I probably don't really need it.


momikey said:


> Yea we switch over manually, no derailleur or front shifter added, but a few people on the Facebook group have gone that route. And Johnfe I only need the 22 plus the 7 in the back for all my hilly snowy terrain so it sounds like you got a nice deal!


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

All Right I need some advice, I can't get the fork bearings tight. I have a bad shake when braking and when I try to adjust them that little wedge shaped washer like thingy that goes down in to the upper bearing gets tight before I can get the bear adjusted tight enough. Can someone set me straight on how this set up works? I don't recall ever seeing anything like this before. Update: never mind I got it tight.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

johnfe said:


> All Right I need some advice, I can't get the fork bearings tight. I have a bad shake when braking and when I try to adjust them that little wedge shaped washer like thingy that goes down in to the upper bearing gets tight before I can get the bear adjusted tight enough. Can someone set me straight on how this set up works? I don't recall ever seeing anything like this before.


Did you remember to put all the spacers back on ? If so, you could add another spacer to take up the slack.


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

Yup, have all the spacer on and cranked on the top bolt till it won't turn anymore but still have the shake with braking. Can't get it tight enough so the steering is too tight. Update: may have it this time, seems tighter, will know after a test ride. Thanks


sunnyday said:


> Did you remember to put all the spacers back on ? If so, you could add another spacer to take up the slack.


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

*Ready to go*

Alright, found a Surly takeoff for 26 bucks, bought a new juggernaut for the rear, set of takeoff cranks with a 22 tooth gear for 7 bucks, higher rise handlebars, and swapped my extra set of Tektro calipers for the stock stuff. Ready to ride, hopefully we get a little more than the 1 to 2 inches of snow in the forecast.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

momikey said:


> Yea we switch over manually, no derailleur or front shifter added, but a few people on the Facebook group have gone that route. And Johnfe I only need the 22 plus the 7 in the back for all my hilly snowy terrain so it sounds like you got a nice deal!


Any other modification needed, longer chain, spacers?


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

dmccorm said:


> Any other modification needed, longer chain, spacers?


 I didn't need to change anything else.


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

Dolo now weighs 41 lbs, didn't weigh it before the changes.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... Looks like you can add text, just add a bracket before the last URL and type what you would like info here!


This is great!
Really allows me to clean up the thread's index in the thread's first post. Much less of a dog's breakfast.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Canoe said:


> This is great!
> Really allows me to clean up the thread's index in the thread's first post. Much less of a dog's breakfast.


Agreed..some of the bike snobs, really hurt this thread within the first several pages.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

Picked up some 26x4 Surly tubes and Vanhelga tires for the Dolo today. Wow! what a difference that made in a ride. Even at the initial $192, the total price is starting to inch up there to about $300 with all the parts I'm replacing, but it sure beats a cigarette and whiskey habit 

I'm only keeping tabs on the hours I spend to remind myself that its still a hobby, just good fun, and that it's cheaper than labor at the LBS. 

Supposed to get ~3" of new snow to play in tomorrow. Should be fun. I wonder if I'll need to go down to 6 lbs. for the new snow on these new tires?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

They made it cluttered and awkward, as did some insisting on persisting in discussing medical issues instead of the Dolo. (everything is subject so thread drift). BUT, if you take the time to figure out where they're coming from, a lot can be learnt. 

Remember, they've got a lot of experience, and have seen people waste money, or even be hurt, due to poor quality bikes, incorrectly setup, or misunderstanding what a particular bike is capable of. Don't mistake their much provoked frustration with this as trolling, even if they don't always express themselves in the most commutative fashion.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Canoe said:


> They made it cluttered and awkward, as did some insisting on persisting in discussing medical issues instead of the Dolo. (everything is subject so thread drift). BUT, if you take the time to figure out where they're coming from, a lot can be learnt.
> 
> Remember, they've got a lot of experience, and have seen people waste money, or even be hurt, due to poor quality bikes, incorrectly setup, or misunderstanding what a particular bike is capable of.


Yes, but the bad bike snobs will generally just make non helpful, belittling remarks in these threads, and not provide any real info.

I think most of us know that a $191 walmart bike , wont perform or have components like a $1500 bike.

Many of the bike snobs, just get their jollys off of being a loudmouth azz.

If you chose to defend them, then so be it . I shall continue to call them what they truly are.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dmccorm said:


> ... Supposed to get ~3" of new snow to play in tomorrow. Should be fun. I wonder if I'll need to go down to 6 lbs. for the new snow on these new tires?


You have to play around with the PSI in fat tires. Expect each terrain and each weather/condition to have a different optimum PSI. People start with getting it to the most optimum within 1 PSI, then to the 1/2 PSI and some (particularly if they're down under 5 psi for snow or sand) to the nearest 1/4 psi. And as the PSI changes the contact patch, hence the grip, the optimum is different for climbing vs. descents. 
Start with the nearest 1 PSI.

Tons on this in other non-Dolo threads. Go lurk. All is explained.


----------



## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

sunnyday said:


> ... I think most of us know that a $191 walmart bike , wont perform or have components like a $1500 bike. ...


Most, but not all. Some people who had no clue as to the differences were going to take their Dolo's out-of-the-box on mountain trails!!!!!!!!
One after many weeks (a few months?) finally asked what the difference was. Then he started on his learning.


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## sunnyday (Jan 17, 2015)

Im curious if anyone has weighed the new style stock dolomite tires ? I would, but I dont have a scale for it. Im wondering if they are lighter then the old styled stock tires. The tread design is different.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I think they were 6.4lbs when I weighed them.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

oops said:


> couple pics of my gateway bike
> 
> swapped tires/tubes , drilled the rims, added a take off crank (22/32), ebayed direct mount derailleur/thumb shifter/PS adapter, and found some red flare.


Nice work on the front dérailleur setup. How did you secure the cable tubes?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Hey guys, does anyone have a how-to specific to the over-sized rim of the Dolo, for tightening up the spokes. I've probably got about 4-500 miles on my one with the drilled rims and the spokes have a lot more play in them when compared to the wife's bike(stock dolo wheels). They all seem to have the same amount of play in them and the wheel seems pretty true already, just wondering if I should have them tighter and how.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Same as truing up any wheel. Roger Musson has very good instructions on the process of doing that so the wheel gets and stays true. Wheelbuilding book for building bicycle wheels

As a wheel is a pre-tensioned structure, the spokes have to be tight for the wheel to be strong.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Thank you sir, I was a little nervous on this mornings ride.


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## jbrow1 (Oct 15, 2010)

Canoe said:


> Looks like we may have an alternate soon, in a Sealed Cartridge Bearing at 100mm.
> VP Components VP-BC63
> Expected to be in the $20 range.
> VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM
> ...


So I am confused by this post, and looked forward in the thread and didn't really see where it was cleared up.

My question then, does this cartridge bottom bracket come with a correct spindle width for the dolomite? Or one that is a little shorter maybe that will still work with the dolomite?

*edit* 
I'm also curious if anybody has tried going ghetto tubeless with these bikes? Not the split tube way, but gorilla tape and some tubeless slime. If so how did it work out?


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## johnfe (Jan 19, 2015)

What kind of tire gauges is everyone using for their fat tires?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

> tire gauges is everyone using for their fat tires?
most popular is the 15 PSI Accu-Gage/Meiser
but, search the fat bike forum for where all of the options are already covered

BB cartridge
covered in a very recent post, #1255

And the tubeless question too in a recent post. 
Search is your friend.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

sunnyday said:


> Canoe said:
> 
> 
> > Check the first post to get the link to the measurement post. ...
> ...


When you're after information, again, check the very first posts of this thread for a bit of an index. No need to wait for a reply when links to the info is already there.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Rode ~10 miles today mostly smooth road. Wasn't happy with derieular adjustment. Started playing with it and found that the rear axle is slightly bent, got a wobble. . So I guess b I'll be calling pacific cycles tomorrow. 
Realized a larger water source and pouch for my wallet and cell will be necessary

I do want to get away from the twist grip. . This thing sucks need triggers. 

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

an index, to help people find key info


Canoe said:


> *Popular Upgrades*
> 
> trigger shifter:
> Some prefer triggers, some don't.
> ...


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

*upgrades*

Orign8 80mm wheels- bought
36 tooth 9speed cassette- bought
Surly Bud & Lou tires- bought
Front derailuer-bought
Crank- bought
Seatpost- bought
Shifters-parts bin
Handlebar- trade


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

brakes- parts bin


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

What does it weigh with the upgrades?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

You got the origin8 wheels, nice! Did you order the 135/190mm set from Ebay?


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

Which crankset is that?


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

blown240 said:


> What does it weigh with the upgrades?


haven't gotten around to a scale yet, pick up weight....much lighter


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

momikey said:


> You got the origin8 wheels, nice! Did you order the 135/190mm set from Ebay?


Yeah, they're pretty sweet.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

virtu said:


> Which crankset is that?


Veulta minus the roadie ring.

MTB Comp Crankset 22/32/44 104-64/BCD - Cranksets - Components


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

Gerfzilla said:


> Orign8 80mm wheels- bought
> 36 tooth 9speed cassette- bought
> Surly Bud & Lou tires- bought
> Front derailuer-bought
> ...


I'm interested to know how much you've spent on this project. I've dropped a couple bucks on the Dolo I bought for the gf, but not to this extent.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

The Surly Bud & Lou tires are extremely expensive, but a huge upgrade over the originals and the origin8 devastator tires for snow. Now i have two summer sets though to burn up. They slip as with all tires eventually in some snow, but they give a hell of a fight before they lose grip, most times regaining traction. My buddy had them on last week and I had the Origin8's, he was waiting for me at every turn.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

Big money, id have to add it up, but nowhere near what my friends paid for the brand name bikes. My credit card is still cooling off.


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## virtu (Mar 9, 2008)

momikey said:


> You got the origin8 wheels, nice! Did you order the 135/190mm set from Ebay?


I am planning to buy these wheels later this year, just saving money for that.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

The wheels were 3 small w shipping and the tires were 2 1/2 small shipped...ouch.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

The 36 tooth rear cassette and 22-32 teeth are needed around here as we have 14% grades to get up to the top of the hills, where our trails are.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

blown240 said:


> What does it weigh with the upgrades?


Exactly 40lbs of steel framed fury.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Dolo delayed for the weather rats! 
Researching parts and I was curious if anywhere in the thread someone has thrown a 200mm rotor for the front? I had a lighter DH rig and a 200 mm may be needed for the riding I do which includes some necessary downhill spots. 
Thanks


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Ive got 203mm front and rear on my Beast. But thats with a salsa fork.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

How about this montser 255mm rotor? Now that's stopping power.

Front
Mountain Bike Oversize Disc Brake Rotor Kit 255mm - Front

Rear
Mountain Bike Oversize Disc Brake Rotor Kit 255mm - Rear


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

blown240 said:


> Ive got 203mm front and rear on my Beast. But thats with a salsa fork.


Adapters to get a 203 on the front and rear are easy to find ...no?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> Adapters to get a 203 on the front and rear are easy to find ...no?


One thing to watch out for, Dolo is 135 front, but I don't know if the brake is 135 Front spacing bracket or 135 Rear spacing bracket. 
Anyone?

On the Surly Lou. 
Crazy supple. 
Hang one by the bead on your finger, and the 120 TPI fold on your finger it is so supple. The 27 TPI Lou is more supple than the 120 TPI Larry or Endo. If you're good to your LBS, for the 27 TPI Lou, prices of $70 each (once $60) have been had. If you're one of their frequent flyers...

Gerfzilla
We had a report on here of a Lou on a stock rim that at first fit fine, but after a week or two the Lou had stretched and was rubbing the chain stays (fork too?). They didn't say if it was the 120 or 27 TPI version.
So even though you're on 80mm rims, please keep us informed of how it goes.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

dgw2jr said:


> What's the weight of the handlebars, stem, and seat post?


See the first post of this thread for "Dolo measurements post".


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

Canoe said:


> One thing to watch out for, Dolo is 135 front, but I don't know if the brake is 135 Front spacing bracket or 135 Rear spacing bracket.
> Anyone?
> 
> On the Surly Lou.
> ...


That may happen, but I switched out to 80mm rims. They are definitely wider on the 100mm rims.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Yup
Surly gives "Lou" (120 or 27?) a max width of 121mm on 100mm, 111 on 82mm and 104 on 65mm. 

But do let us know what happens, or doesn't.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Yup
> Surly gives "Lou" (120 or 27?) a max width of 121mm on 100mm, 111 on 82mm and 104 on 65mm.
> 
> But do let us know what happens, or doesn't.


I think when u go tubeless it will stretch out further, sometimes a lot further.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Dolo arrives tomorrow. I read the thread again in a single sitting for the second time so I feel well prepared for tinkering. 

I shall see if this newest incarnation has any tiny improvements or the newer tires.

Anyone need a baseline weight on some parts before I tear into it or measurements?

If I read correctly to get a cassette and ditch the free wheel I would need to lace a different hub? An 8 speed freewheel would not require additional mods other than a chain length check?

My list at the moment will most likely be...

YST BB
Wheel drill 1 1/4 centerline
Trying a pair of the Panaracer Fat B Nibles or possibly floaters
Q tubes
XTR levers possibly F+R dérailleurs with the spacing adapter from parts bin
XTR rear der from parts bin
Flat black wheels after machining
Parts bin stem and bars
BMX platforms

Grabbing the bike for only $200 I feel a bit more confident in getting the bike where I will like it. But as it has been said many times I don't want to replace other bikes I have nor do I want my upgrades to outstretch the practicality of the dolo


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Canoe are you saying make sure the rear adapter is a true rear and the front is a front? I only plan on changing the front at the moment but I'll see if the rear is identical thanks


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

skamatt23 said:


> Dolo arrives tomorrow. I read the thread again in a single sitting for the second time so I feel well prepared for tinkering.
> 
> I shall see if this newest incarnation has any tiny improvements or the newer tires.
> 
> ...


Or stay w the freewheel and go ten speed 36 tooth for ez uphill action. NOTE: w the longshoreman strike this takes 5 weeks shipping 

DNP Epoch Thread Type 10 Speeds 10S Bicycle Bike Freewheel Cog 11 36T Cassette | eBay


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> Canoe are you saying make sure the rear adapter is a true rear and the front is a front? I only plan on changing the front at the moment but I'll see if the rear is identical thanks


NO.
There are 135 fronts that are setup with either: a front bracket or a rear bracket. 
Don't know which we have. Do let us know which it is if you go there.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Gerfzilla said:


> Or stay w the freewheel and go ten speed 36 tooth for ez uphill action. NOTE: w the longshoreman strike this takes 5 weeks shipping
> 
> DNP Epoch Thread Type 10 Speeds 10S Bicycle Bike Freewheel Cog 11 36T Cassette | eBay


~edit: WRONG: "Their add lies. Check the photo. It's a cassette, not a freewheel."

Stock derailer will only reach 7 of 8 gears.
If you use a derailer that reaches all 8, you may put too much load on the axle (that much more leverage) and bend it. So if you're a clyde or have strong legs, be careful.

Most people do fine with manually picking their front, from a 22T ring to a 32T.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Their add lies. Check the photo. It's a cassette, not a freewheel.
> Stock derailer will only reach 7 of 8 gears.
> If you use a derailer that reaches all 8, you may put too much load on the axle (that much more leverage) and bend it. So if you're a clyde or have strong legs, be careful.
> 
> ...


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I don't think an 8th gear would break the axle or bend it any more than the 7 speed or my own weight would stress it. But if it's a weak spot so be it I will replace the axle or the hub and rebuild on replace the wheel.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Gerfzilla said:


> ...if the pic is right it's a freewheel, got one on order, will update when it comes in.


Sorry. It's freewheel.
I missed the shot from the back. 
Will be interesting. 
I'd be too chicken to go 10 without going to cassette.

Nice progression though, particularly the 28-32-36T end.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I checked too. Def freewheel. Will that stack fit on the wheel? Are there spacers there to remove? 43mm height I think


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> I don't think an 8th gear would break the axle or bend it any more than the 7 speed or my own weight would stress it. But if it's a weak spot so be it I will replace the axle or the hub and rebuild on replace the wheel.


The eight speed has the same spacing as the 7 speed, only it's wider. So it's got that much more leverage back against the axle applied back through the screw-on. People have bent the axle this way, even with punching it with a seven speed.

If you're prepared to replace the axle/hub, then spend the money once by getting a cassette & hub up front. Then you can go 8, 9 or 10, with an appropriate derailer. (recommend you upgrade the spokes & nipples too if you go that route)


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> Dolo arrives tomorrow. ... Anyone need a baseline weight on some parts before I tear into it or measurements?...
> Parts bin stem and bars...


To complete the listing, how about the weight of the stock stem, if you end up pulling it off? (mine went to scrap metal...)


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I have a good guy in the neighboring town that can build strong wheels. The only question is would it be worth it to just toss the wheels and get take offs of another. I didn't remember reading breaking any axles in the thread but I am sure a few folks have done that


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Around the web, no breaking I can recall, but with 8 speed freewheels, lots of bending. Bending on the stock Dolo too. It's not a $1,000 bike. 

You've already got nice enough 100mm rims. Cost a lot to replace.
BUT, 80 or 65mm make for nice summer rims. (I have 47mm for summer, but just used the front)
You could even have two wheel sets: 100m winter and 65mm summer. 
(if you go for a single upgraded wheel set, there's valid benefits for 80mm and 65mm - the 47mm I have is not generally recommended, but it is fun)
With the appropriate front, or using two of a Mtb triple, 7 speed rear on 100mm winter wheel set...


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

After ~20 miles my freewheel looks like it's wobbling. looks to me like the axle bent. Will try to take it apart tonight. 

does anyone have the axle size or a recommendation for a more durable one?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

On the side note a lot of folks don't realize you can eBay the stock tires for around $50 to offset upgrade costs. 

Canoe is there a stronger axle than stock? I'll check page 1 and see if you mentioned the material.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Now I remember a few folks having bent axles right out of the box, but they didn't necessarily bend them on their own. Hence the reason why a few folks got new rear wheels from Pacific.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

The tires are up now for $68 shipped with a few hours left. Imagine shipping in the con us to be around $25 you could offset good cranks and possibly a megarange in addition if it bid high enough.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Canoe I found a post today regarding the rotor adapters.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I found on the Facebook page the front and rear caliper mounts are located at different positions relative to the axle. if the adapter (pictured in back) were used up front, it would support a 180mm diameter rotor, the same adapter used in the rear would support a 160mm for instance.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

The mount pictured upfront , can be used up front with a 160mm rotor or used in the rear with a 140mm rotor.

The problem is these adapters only work for these calipers.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Stang951 said:


> After ~20 miles my freewheel looks like it's wobbling. looks to me like the axle bent. Will try to take it apart tonight.
> 
> does anyone have the axle size or a recommendation for a more durable one?


Freewheel wobbling doesn't always mean the axle is bent. Some freewheels have play or are built imperfectly. Is this when driving the wheel or when coasting?

No idea on the size or materials.
The rear spacing is 190mm. Good luck finding a stronger replacement in 190mm. If you're a clyde or like punching, I would expect it to be more cost effective to go to a cassette hub.

Look at where the load is applied to the axle. The right/drive side of a Freewheel has the bearings inboard of the gears.









Freewheels already have a high incidence of riders bending axles. Going to eight speed from seven speed (or to a physically wider freewheel), where the load on the smallest gear is applied further outboard of the bearings, hence with more leverage, aggravates this disadvantage.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I know I am late to the party but the dolo finally arrived. Hubs way tight, a few scratches, some greased pieces but over all I am happy. It is truly a monster truck of bikes. New tires are nice treadwise and I plan to ride it as is for a little bit so I can appreciate the gearing and later upgrades. Impressive and affordable fat bike. The scale of it is just staggering and it sort of fits on my Yakima roof rack lol.


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## readytoride55 (Jan 27, 2015)

skamatt23 said:


> I know I am late to the party but the dolo finally arrived. Hubs way tight, a few scratches, some greased pieces but over all I am happy. It is truly a monster truck of bikes. New tires are nice treadwise and I plan to ride it as is for a little bit so I can appreciate the gearing and later upgrades. Impressive and affordable fat bike. The scale of it is just staggering and it sort of fits on my Yakima roof rack lol.


I would check the bearings in the bottom bracket. Mine were bone dry and way overtightened . Remember, it can be dificult to tell they are overtightened with the crank arms and pedals attached. Its easier to tell when you strip it down to just the crank axle and try to spin it by hand while in the bottom bracket. Mine was way to tight.


----------



## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I literally grannied it around the block to check a few basic functions. I lubed everything except the BB and hubs. Being the dead of winter I'll finish what I have tools to take apart and let my LBS buddy do the rest. In the meantime I am focusing on the tires/tubes /drivetrain parts needed. 
The freewheel felt like it was slipping and may not have been tightened down enough. To be expected. 
Brakes I would consider adequate. I plan on grabbing a pair of 203's soon but this bike wasn't going to be built (or torn down for that matter) in a day lol


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Will do readytoride


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Worth noting... 
The ride doesn't feel like your ordinary rigid bike... at all. 
You get the pedalling efficiency of a rigid but almost the smoothness of a hardtail comparatively. The steering is understandably a little lethargic but again responsive enough even in stock setup for a bike of this size. You really notice the larger 29er type ride quality with a fatty 26. Pleasantly surprised. 

It doesn't feel like 50lbs. It is cumbersome for a guy coming from bikes half the weight but pedalling and steering were not as jello-like as one would expect. 

I was also surprised the tires at low pressure have the fortitude to not wash out even with some street riding only. 

I put it through some moderate single-track when a few of the glaring and important shortcomings are addressed. Time will tell about my main concern the hubs and freewheel. Everything else in my initial impression was better than expected for a $191 walgoose. You really do get a lot of nice features for the money and for a guy looking for fun and has a few low tech parts to plug in on this bike there is a ton of potential here. Between the Vinson and this for a third of the price I don't have much if any buyers remorse.


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## Voyager AL (Mar 8, 2013)

tbonegreen said:


> Got my Ibera frame bag in the mail today. Slapped it on and it fits pretty nice.
> 
> I've had the bike out for 3 rides now on complete stock parts and it rides just fine. There are upgrades that I want to do, but I wouldn't hesitate to suggest this bike to anybody asking about it.


medium or large Ibera bag?


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Weighed my newer type stocker tires and they are 2390 grams and the tubes were 750 grams . 5.3 lbs per tire 1.65 per tube

New V8 tires at 1400grams per tire plus 300 gram q tubes will save roughly 6.5 lbs. not too shabby and I can sell the old tubes and tires to recoup some cost.


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## readytoride55 (Jan 27, 2015)

Just bought a 1000 watt brushless hub motor kit for $195 off ebay . Gonna make my dolomite a electirc dolomite.


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## cricman (Jan 29, 2015)

Alright, I'm all in. After looking and thinking and assessing my requirements, I decided on a Dolomite. I picked it up from Wally World this afternoon; $215 with tax, shipped to store. I am going to call it Rudy in honor of Rudy Ray Moore- AKA "Dolomite, Mutha F.......!" You old timers will remember that movie.

I greased and adjusted the front wheel bearings. The headset was good to go. I will check, lube, and adjust the rear wheel bearings when I swap out the stock freewheel for the Megarange that is on the way. As soon as I have worn out the stock tires, I will drop some coin on something significantly lighter. Adjusted the brakes and will fine tune the shifter tomorrow, when I have time. I am mainly going to use this in the neighborhood, and take it out to my hunting property for scouting in the off season. Thanks to all of the people that have posted in this thread; good, bad, and otherwise, for helping shape my decision!

cricman


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## readytoride55 (Jan 27, 2015)

cricman said:


> Alright, I'm all in. After looking and thinking and assessing my requirements, I decided on a Dolomite. I picked it up from Wally World this afternoon; $215 with tax, shipped to store. I am going to call it Rudy in honor of Rudy Ray Moore- AKA "Dolomite, Mutha F.......!" You old timers will remember that movie.
> 
> I greased and adjusted the front wheel bearings. The headset was good to go. I will check, lube, and adjust the rear wheel bearings when I swap out the stock freewheel for the Megarange that is on the way. As soon as I have worn out the stock tires, I will drop some coin on something significantly lighter. Adjusted the brakes and will fine tune the shifter tomorrow, when I have time. I am mainly going to use this in the neighborhood, and take it out to my hunting property for scouting in the off season. Thanks to all of the people that have posted in this thread; good, bad, and otherwise, for helping shape my decision!
> 
> cricman


You forgot to mention 1 of the most critical pre-checks.

Dissasembly of bottom bracket and inspecting the 2 bearings and readjusting for proper tension.

My 2 bearings were bone dry of grease, and way over tightened. With the crank arms on, its difficult to tell when they are over tightened because the weight/ inertia of the crank arms hides the resistance/ drag of a over tightened axle.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Voyager AL said:


> medium or large Ibera bag?





tbonegreen said:


> It is the large model. There are two zippers on the outside. One large pocket and one small pocket. Then a third zippered compartment inside the large pocket.


I got both. Medium fits too (of course), but doesn't clear bottle or cage.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

readytoride55 said:


> You forgot to mention 1 of the most critical pre-checks.
> Dissasembly of bottom bracket and inspecting the 2 bearings and readjusting for proper tension.


+1 :thumbsup:
Essential...

NOTE: hubs & BB must be inspected for grease & tension/torque BEFORE you ever ride it - if you want the parts to last as long as possible. This is critical for clydes. 
(this is why you want to get one in a box, not assembled (and ridden) by the store) 
And in some cases, the bike will not be rideable (parts locked tight) before you do this. Headset too, but not _as_ critical.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

+1 also!:thumbsup: Please don't ride the Mongoose without reading Canoe's guide. I found the front rim nearly locked up out of the box, little grease, and I found bearings inside the hub. After removing all bearings, counting, cleanup, and re-greasing, I found an extra bearing (better than missing). Also, the bearing keeper was bent out of round. I had to flatten the inside of the cup to get freewheel on the hub to keep all the bearings free.

I love the idea of a cheap bike that you can get parts for and customize. It will still cost less that a great quality low end name brand, and even customized may not be as good as the specialized branded fat bike, but this is a cool bike to have fun with.


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

By the way, I see that Target is still at $191.99, while Walmart is all over the map this week. From $199 to $249. Not sure what is going on with the price, but at least you can price match at Walmart, if needed.

Edit: LOL, well Walmart is now back to $191.99 again, as of today


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## cricman (Jan 29, 2015)

Canoe said:


> +1 :thumbsup:
> Essential...
> 
> NOTE: hubs & BB must be inspected for grease & tension/torque BEFORE you ever ride it - if you want the parts to last as long as possible. This is critical for clydes.
> ...


Absolutely. I also have a crankset (Vuelta Montagna) and the highly recommended YST Sealed BB bearing set on the way, so a BB bearing set/crank/freewheel ($50) upgrade and rear hub clean and grease happens this week. Thank goodness I kept all of my bike tools and my tube of Phil Wood grease from back in the day (When under-the-chain-stay and cantilever brakes were the tech of the day)!

Without a doubt, this isn't even close to the best bike I have owned in my life, but it isn't the "worst." I've owned LBS bikes and BB bikes, and overall quality wise, the Dolomite falls squarely in the middle. My 200 miles per week on a bike days are long behind me, so this was just a fun way to get me back on the saddle and spend more time outdoors.

cricman


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

My BB was pretty dry and both my hubs were actually very well lubed. How tight do you guys run your hubs? Same as the BB setup? Fine line on these between super easy free spinning and that ugly grind


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> ... Fine line on these between super easy free spinning and that ugly grind


Yeah, there's a few of us here familiar with that ugly grind.

I don't know the "official" pre-load recommended for hubs, but I treat my hubs the way I torqued the BB. _*First*_ set up zero torque with _true_ zero play, and _*then*_ add a tiny tiny bit of torque and lock it in. (like the BB, you do need proper tools for this, or you'll go nuts trying; I got cheap cone wrenches and I'm going to cut them up so no one has to ever use them again...) So far, that torque is working well. When setting it up, with the weight of the fat tires, the wheels spins and spins and spins with a moderate hand spin.

Goto the first post of this thread and under Recommended Upgrades, see:
_Optimum bottom bracket bearing torque, zero torque, yet with zero play:
- first try at explaining the technique
- second try at explaining the technique_​


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## RocktonRider (Nov 30, 2010)

Hubs should be set up with a little play when they're off the bike, because tightening the axle nuts/QRs will add a little extra tightness to the bearings.

1.) Tighten everything down with just a little play.
2.) Put the wheel back in the frame and tighten nuts/QRs.
3.) Spin wheel to see if bearings are too tight. Ideally, you want the wheels to swing back and forth several times before stopping (it helps to leave the chain off the rear wheel when testing this).
4.) Hold frame in one hand and wiggle the wheel/tire side-to-side with the other to see if any play can be felt. If you can feel any side-to-side movement at all, the cones will need to be tightened slightly.
5.) Adjust as necessary.

It can be a frustrating process to get them exact if you're OCD like I am, but it makes a noticeable difference when you're riding and will greatly improve the life of the hubs/cones/bearings.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

RocktonRider said:


> ... 4.) Hold frame in one hand and wiggle the wheel/tire side-to-side with the other to see if any play can be felt.
> It can be a frustrating process to get them exact if you're OCD...


If you want an _optimum_ ride and maximum life of the hub, a very big NO to #4. See the method for getting true zero play. From there, you decide to stick with zero pre-load torque, or add a tiny tiny bit of pre-load torque.

You can do this on the frame, but if you do it on a wheel truing stand, you can have the tube & tire off so the weight is less so the bearings/cone set in easier so you've a greater chance of getting it correct the first time (particularly once you've got the technique down).


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## RocktonRider (Nov 30, 2010)

Canoe said:


> If you want an _optimum_ ride and maximum life of the hub, a very big NO to #4.


Sorry, should have clarified that when you wiggle the wheel, you shouldn't feel any play. If so, the cones will need to be tightened. The goal is to have the minimum amount of force on the bearings while still keeping everything from moving.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

But if you wiggle the wheel and there's play, if you do want it optimum, you have to back off, regrease, and start over. :madman:

If you torque using the specified technique, then once you learn how to do that, you can consistently and reliably get true zero play, usually first time. :thumbsup:
(not just "very little play", which also works, but is not optimum).

With cheap parts, which have cheap threads, the less-precise loose threads (think back-lash) means that *when you lock it down*, *you may get increased tension*. This may result in the tiny tiny bit of torque I like to have, or if really cheap threads, it's now torqued too tight and you have to start over.:madman:

Excess torque, is, well, too tight. 
Zero torque, but with excess play is also greater turning resistance than properly torqued. 
The less play the better. Optimum will be either true zero play or a tiny tiny touch of pre-load. YMMV

The difference is interesting. I had a VW golf I cold push with three fingers.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Does anyone run a dolo with snow shoes xl by chance? Will the 4.8 fit?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Don't know.

I should start an index into which tires people have successfully and not successfuly run on a Dolo. And if it is an early Dolo or a newer one with the different chain-stay spacing. Some tires have fit at first, but over time they stretched and then were rubbing.

Even if it's one that 'obviously' would fit, like one-one-floater, everything should be listed, so people can know.

So, if people could aid others by posting their tires, including brand, model, weight (g), TPI & rim size: 
on front, tire not-fitting or fitting, running for how long without/before rubbing
on rear, not-fitting or fitting, early vs. newer chain-stay spacing, running for how long without/before rubbing

===========================================================

On-One Floater Black, 100mm rims- fits fine​
One-One Floater Coloured, 100mm rims- fits fine​
Surly Endo(morph) 26x3.7 120 TPI non-folding, 1380g, front & rear, 100mm rims, early chain-stay spacing- tons of clearance when installed front or rear, and after months​
Surly Larry 26x3.8 120 TPI non-folding, 1430g, front & rear, 100mm rims, early chain-stay spacing- tons of clearance when installed front or rear, and after months​
Surly Lou- fit, just, stretched in a few weeks and was rubbing​
Vee Rubber Vee 8 (Wire Bead) 26X4.0 120 TPI, 1390g, front & rear, 100mm rims, newer chain-stay spacing- installed easy, no time on them yet​
V Mission 72 tpi installed fine
Adding 2-3 mm studs installed fine​
Snowshoe 120tpi 4.7 installed with plenty of room as well. About as wide as you can buy and still gobs of clearance​
Kenda Juggernaut 4.5 inch, (_Skota23:_) an early bike, there was about 10mm on the non-drive and 20mm on the drive. They are stretched, I've been riding them for months​


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Ok I'll add

I have a pair of the V8 wire beads and they easily fit. 
Newer dolomite that came with most recent more aggressive tires. 
With the bike all apart and waiting for parts I can weight the stem and a few other bits I pulled off


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I take it that's a _"Vee Rubber 26X4.0 Vee 8 (Wire Bead)", front & rear, newer chain-stay spacing_, no time on them yet?


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Not yet. All I can say is they fit


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## cricman (Jan 29, 2015)

Walmart just upped the price again- $230.69. That really is a strange pricing algorithm they have programmed into their pricing system. I guess it is designed to balance being competitive and still offering the lowest price, but maximizing profit on a daily (seemingly hourly!) basis. That way they can also reduce points paid out on their Savings Catcher Program.

On a more topical note: I weighed "Rudy" (a second generation example) in stock configuration with 10psi in both tires, sans reflectors; 48.78 pounds per my digital scale. I am thinking that 39 pounds is very achievable for about an additional $150. Not a racer, but still not bad for a bike that will cost me less than $375, and have several upgrades to boot! 

cricman


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Yeah that's the way I see t too. If $1500 class fatbikes roll at about 35 pounds, higher end titanium and aluminum bikes around 30 and the lighter of fatties in carbon at 22 I would be more than happy to break into 39 lbs on my budget. I haven't drilled my wheels yet but I am curious with the parts I am installing this week and next where I will end up. Hesitant to drill and compromise wheel strength. I would stand to lose what... a pound per wheel with 1.5 holes and a lot less rolling resistance?


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## cricman (Jan 29, 2015)

I recently weighed my old Diamondback crossover bike (700x32c wheels and front suspension), and it came in at 36.6 pounds. My goal of 39 pounds (or slightly under) should be achievable easily with tires/tubes, seat post, handlebar, and crank. Because of my stature, I am going to leave the rims intact. Although, I may be able to shave 10-20 grams by stripping that horrible red paint off of them!


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Yeah I couldn't stand it either so I hand sanded them and repainted gloss black.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

skamatt23 said:


> Yeah that's the way I see t too. If $1500 class fatbikes roll at about 35 pounds, higher end titanium and aluminum bikes around 30 and the lighter of fatties in carbon at 22 I would be more than happy to break into 39 lbs on my budget. I haven't drilled my wheels yet but I am curious with the parts I am installing this week and next where I will end up. Hesitant to drill and compromise wheel strength. I would stand to lose what... a pound per wheel with 1.5 holes and a lot less rolling resistance?


You do realize that the only weight difference between a carbon and an aluminum/titanium fat bike frame is only about 1-2 pounds right? The rest can be built the same


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I was just putting the emphasis on the carbon frame bars wheels stem etc that that type of bike would be completely specd with.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

I think the red rims look sharp. Probably the only thing I like about the Dolo. People are paying extra money for colored Rolling Darryls and other rims.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I was tempted to plasti dip them with that rim type of treatment they sell at autozone. Just to be able to change the look and still have stock underneath


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

The reason for the red is to get the whole Red White Blue look which isn't awful but at 100mm wide the red is an eyesore for me a bit. I know Surly has the clown shoes... THESE look like clown shoes lol


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)




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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Painted my wheels black, I have a dark blue and white saddle which I had, when I redo my cables I am using white housings. Subtle. I think white wheels although dirt magnets would be cool as well. White floaters as well? Not for me


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Don't know if this has been on here before but check this guy out! Really Amazing.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Pretty sick!


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

cricman said:


> Walmart just upped the price again- $230.69. That really is a strange pricing algorithm they have programmed into their pricing system. I guess it is designed to balance being competitive and still offering the lowest price, but maximizing profit on a daily (seemingly hourly!) basis. That way they can also reduce points paid out on their Savings Catcher Program.


Looks like a mini price war with Target ($223.99) again.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skamatt23 said:


> ... Hesitant to drill and compromise wheel strength. I would stand to lose what... a pound per wheel with 1.5 holes and a lot less rolling resistance?


Weight has no effect on rolling resistance. Losing the ridiculously heavy duty stock tube will lower rolling resistance; and lower weight, and that's weight out at the edge of the wheel.

Lowering weight of the wheel lowers it's inertia. You can accelerate faster, brake in somewhat less distance. However, the wheel has less momentum for getting over/through obstacles, an advantage fat bikes have over regular Mtb. Your call. Some like it one way, others...

If you swap the stock tube for a q-tube with schrader, you'll get lower rolling resistance! (and you'll lose ~315g per wheel)
Upgrade the tires and 120 tpi tires will greatly reduce the rolling resistance! (It will also reduce the dolo wheel weight in the order of ~1400g per wheel.)

Drilling cutouts into the rim in the staggered style also lowers weight, and out near the edge of the wheel. If you drill 36 holes (34 holes at 1.5" and the two next to the stem at 1"), you'll save ~203g per wheel. If you go for the center in-line circle cutouts, you'd better go to 1 1/4" holes. So you lose even less weight, but (I think) it looks cooler than the staggered holes. Examples of each are link to from the thread's first post.

Given the weight reductions from tires & tubes, the weight reduction from cutouts is minimal. Done right (not too large, lots of material left and in the right places, carefully drilled so there are no stress risers), unless you're a clyde the reduction in strength is negligible. Personally I believe that cutouts are not worthwhile unless you really like the look, or are riding where you need or feel safer with the cutouts showing retro-reflective material.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

cricman said:


> ... That really is a strange pricing algorithm they have programmed into their pricing system. ...


Maybe AI is here and it's discovered drugs...


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Gotcha Canoe 
200 grams a wheel is about half a pound. Significant but I'll wait. I see tons of guys rushing and screwing up the holes. I can do it right but I have seen these done right take 2-3 hours. 

I already have some hard pack tires and the q tubes are on the way.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Guff said:


> Showing off my project. I just got her back together.
> Upgrades include:
> MegaRange 14t freewheel
> Avid BB7 dual disc brakes
> ...


How do you like the Speedsters? Im mostly neighborhood concrete riding, those look like they would be perfect.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Quick question 
Freewheel came in and doesn't fit. Does the center piece on the freewheel come out with the gut to let it on the hub?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Can you post a pic of how it doesn't fit? Im pretty sure the thread is the same on all of them?


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Hi all,

Haven't mountain biked for a while (recumbents these days) but the fat tire thing caught my eye as a good way to get out in the woods this time of year (not much rain so the sandy areas on the trails etc get soft and deep). That $2100 dollar ride at the lbs was too much to get a proof of concept plus I just bought a new bike in early December (cruzbike Q)

Was thinking something in the 250-350 range might work but not anxious to even spend that much. Caught on to this mongoose Dolomite (though not listed on their website) and was able to get enough info to realize this would be a great starter bike for the fat tire world. Got the Target deal and tracking says it's on the truck and should be delivered today.

I've been through this thread and appreciate the great info. Special thanks to canoe for putting the info summary at the beginning. Got a seat, pedals, rear rack and bottle holder ready to go out of the parts bin. No hills here but may need lower gearing for the sandy areas. Will look at tires/tubes after a while (honey, got an idea for my birthday......).

So anyway, looking forward to getting out in the woods this weekend (after a shop session to check all the bearings etc). And happy to find a forum with a lot of good stuff and this thread as well.

CJ


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

CrackerJim said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Haven't mountain biked for a while (recumbents these days) but the fat tire thing caught my eye as a good way to get out in the woods this time of year (not much rain so the sandy areas on the trails etc get soft and deep). That $2100 dollar ride at the lbs was too much to get a proof of concept plus I just bought a new bike in early December (cruzbike Q)
> 
> ...


I'm not a bicycle guy, love motorcycles though so I didn't want to spend 1000.00+ on the ones that I saw prior to swing the Dolores at academy. 
I have to admit I look forward to getting home in the evening so I can either tinker or ride. I think you'll love it. Does take some tinkering though and from what I've read it'll never be one of the spensive kind.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

skamatt23 said:


> Quick question
> Freewheel came in and doesn't fit. Does the center piece on the freewheel come out with the gut to let it on the hub?


Mine just came in so if there is a problem with mine I'll let you know.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Stang,

Yeah, I agree. Some gearing and maybe tires and that's it for me. In a few years, we plan to move up to northern florida and will be near the Ocala Nat forest and should have plenty of trail roads to roam. If this fat bike pans out like I figure it will, then I'll get a nicer one for the big forest. Keep the Dolo and my swamp bike (aka mountain bike) for when my sons or brothers visit.

I'll let them figure out who gets the fat one........

CJ


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I figured it out. What would probably seem obvious to you guys I goofed up. All good in the hood. 
I have done many cassettes but not a freewheel. I got it lol


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Mine done as well. RAD stand is nicer than sitting slouched over trying to work on a bike that is on the ground. Also confirmed that my rear axle is bent. Don't think that I'll find one local so a calling to Pacific I will be.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

The bike arrived just as I had to hit the shower to go out to eat with family. Got home and looked the bike over. Nothing appears bent. Minor scratch on the shoulder of the fork. Front hub too tight, assume rear is but brake body off center so can't tell, crank is way too tight. headset feels good (will look at it soon).

We're going to an art fair in the am so can't work on it until until after lunch. Will get the wheel and crank bearing/races cleaned up and re-packed. Adjust brakes, derailleur and barring any probs, can hit the woods in the late afternoon.

On the way home, I may check and see if the lbs has the yst bsa cupset, get a free wheel tool and may see if they have the megarange freewheel and see what they get for a mtn bike crank. Not sure which way I want to go. I get the impression that freewheels, that aren't pinned, are hard to come by so may leave the free wheel and go for the crank (manual chain ring change to start as don't see this bike for a bunch of urban cruising but mostly woods so not likely to fit a front derailleur).

So far, happy with this purchase.

CJ


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Getting ready to head to the art fair. Got up in time to do a little wrenching. My crank puller worked. Couldn't turn the spindle by hand..... both wheels way tight.

On the way home will be stopping by the lbs as previously mentioned. Will see if they have a free wheel tool. Read back through the upgrade info at the front of the thread. I thinking (barring a custom stack mega) that the shimano 8 spd freewheel (13-34) might be the best setup. I like the gear spacing and I'm guessing it would be cheaper that the mtb crank. I'll check on crank prices anyway though.

I'm also going to see if they have the yst bsa cup/bearing set. For around $10, seems like a no brainer since I'll have the bb apart anyway. 

I'm wondering if I'll need to lengthen the chain with the 34t sprocket or if the derailleur has enough throw left to use the stock chain?

CJ


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I think that I read in the thread somewhere the chain has to be lengthened. I got lucky and have two 112 link Bell chains laying around, just have to buy another chain break tool so i can make one the correct length.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Dolomite at Saratoga Fat Bike Rally
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=944178965605959&set=o.333878880147626&type=1


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## jbrow1 (Oct 15, 2010)

What hub dimensions should I look for if I am thinking of lacing a new one with a freehub in my rear wheel so I can use a cassette? Does require new spokes as well? If so then I suppose I'd just look for a used rear wheel complete with all that I need. Checked the first post for links, and the search function, didn't seem to find what I was looking for.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

jbrow1 said:


> What hub dimensions should I look for if I am thinking of lacing a new one with a freehub in my rear wheel so I can use a cassette? Does require new spokes as well? If so then I suppose I'd just look for a used rear wheel complete with all that I need. Checked the first post for links, and the search function, didn't seem to find what I was looking for.


There are some great gearing choices out there in cassettes. Consider if you're going to need a new rear derailler & shifter to match (physical spacing between gears, reach for 36T).

Watch out for spoke count. Stock rims are 36 spokes.


Get the first post's link to Dolo Measurements for 'hubs/spread'
Another hub is highly unlikely to match exactly, therefore needs a different length of spoke. Old spokes _may_ be able to be cut and re-rolled (to be threaded) as necessary (not confirmed on Dolo spokes...), but if you're relacing a wheel this is a great time to upgrade to new spokes & nipples (unless you're on a very tight budget). 
Better equipped LBS get spokes in bulk and can cut and roll threads into custom lengths (but don't be surprised if they don't; expensive machine; my LBS rolls for the whole city). Sapim "Race" or "Force" could be good choices. If you're a clyde, lots of cargo or will pull a trailer (think braking loads & fatigue over time), consider "Strong".
For nipples, some like Al, some like brass. Aluminium | Sapim
Replacements rims/wheels are not cheap. The stock 100mm rim you already have, so do you really need to pay for another rim.
But the right replacement rim can have a seat that is much friendlier to going DIY tubeless (although I have a DIY tubeless solution for stock beast/dolo rims that I'm working out the details for).


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

My BB and Pig headset should arrive today and hopefully my new brakes were put in order by my LBS. I'll be tearing down the dolo again this time completely and I'll try to remember to weigh just the frame as I haven't seen that measurement yet.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

I've been wondering what the frame weighed. Wouldn't be surprised if the frame and fork weighed 15lbs.


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## PROJECT-BEAST (Oct 28, 2014)

Frame and fork are actually very light I would guess under 10 for the set... Factory tubes tires and wheels are heaviest part of the bike. I have mine down to 34 lbs


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Rubber is 7068g, or 15.58 lbs.. :eekster:


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

jbrow1 said:


> ... I suppose I'd just look for a used rear wheel complete with all that I need...


If you're considering a summer wheelset, there's 51mm...
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-wheelset-$120-tires-948525.html

Should work with 3.8 but not 4.8 tires.


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## HotRodHudson (Feb 9, 2015)

After reading about the Dolomite on this tread a few months ago I decided to get one. After a little waiting I scored the $191.99 sale price at walmart.com with free shipping to my house. It arrived last week and it wasn't until last night that I had time to assemble it. However, its been 15-20 years since I messed with bikes and have never assembled / modified one yet. So without going back over every single post of the 56 pages here, is there a list of thing to check or redo before the first ride? I do recall there was some greasing concerns....

Also, with my bike building and modifying knowledge very low, where can I find a video or two about assembly, disassembly or maintenance and tools needed to get me on the right track with the new Dolomite. Thanks for the guidance!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Try the very first post of the thread.


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## bazzman (Dec 21, 2006)

Canoe said:


> Rubber is 7068g, or 15.58 lbs.. :eekster:


my dolomite tires have a tread pattern "similar" to a vee mission style tire...do you happen to know what these weigh?...seems like i did read another post saying that they changed the style tires they started putting on the dolomite from the factory....


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

A word of caution on overly drilled rims:

I had one that stared to fail this weekend! The spoke tension is pulling the rim towards the center and there isn't enough meat to keep the aluminum from bending. This is on the triangle holes rim.










The rims I have with the 1.5" holes are holding up fine.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thanks for the heads up!

And that's with way more metal left than we saw in the post below (which I don't believe we ever saw laced, let alone under riding tension). 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-43.html#post11650386


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## bepperb (Mar 26, 2004)

I think my mission commands (updated version of vee missions) were around 1400 grams each. Both tires in a pretty big box to ship was just over 8 pounds.


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## bazzman (Dec 21, 2006)

bepperb said:


> I think my mission commands (updated version of vee missions) were around 1400 grams each. Both tires in a pretty big box to ship was just over 8 pounds.


hmmm i just bought a set of vee mission commands off ebay a few days ago!?...did you sell some on ebay a few days back!?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Canoe said:


> Thanks for the heads up!
> 
> And that's with way more metal left than we saw in the post below (which I don't believe we ever saw laced, let alone under riding tension).
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-43.html#post11650386


Ya, I was wondering how those other rims would hold up. Im about 235 lbs and like to wheelie drop off of stuff, so I'm not surprised that they didnt last forever.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

After seeing what a stock specialized fat boy rides on for hoops I bet you can build that rim up just fine if done by a competent wheelsmith


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea the spokes on my drilled rims have more "flex" to them compared to the other bike with stock Dolomite rims. The spoke tension on them is nice and stiff. I picked up a spoke wrench, but have no real clue what I'm doing with it. The wheel seems too thick to pull it out of alignment, so I have just been tightening each side one spoke at a time about a 1/4 of a turn.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

1/4 turn at a time doesn't sound out of line. But no pun intended (must have been Freudian: sound, out of line), have you tried plucking each spoke to see if they're at the same tension? And, without a wheel truing stand, you don't know if there's an area of your rim that needs slightly more or slightly less tension, or one side or the other. Nor if the hub will end up in the middle of the rim or not. Or if the dish will be correct. And have you set the spokes so they're seated in the hub properly? Or if you're over or under tension: will the rim crack ripping the nipple out of its hole or will the wheel taco?

Worth every penny: Wheelbuilding book for building bicycle wheels


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bazzman said:


> ...do you happen to know what these weigh? ... they started putting on the dolomite from the factory....


Go to the very first post. Look following "Secondly" there's a link to the "Dolo measurements post".


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## Krazyk (Nov 13, 2014)

So I finally had time to take the Dolo out for the maiden voyage since redoing the rims, BB and a new Regina 12-32 freewheel. I powder coated the rims black over the existing red (was going to do white but was afraid of bleed through). The nipples were also switched out for brass while the wheels were apart. I went with Vee tires 72 TPI Vee8 26x4.0. Lost about 7.5 lbs just by switching the tubes and tires. It is amazing how much more responsive the bike is now.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I replaced my brakes with tektro stoppers and avid levers. 180 up front and 160 in the rear. Wow. Huge difference. Cost me $80 at my local shop and they had the adapters in stock . Huge improvement. Just needed a thin washer between my adapter and the frame mounts to keep the inboard pad off the rotor. They are actually straight and true lol. I finally have braking confidence. Very happy upgrade money well spent. 

I like the 32 single up front. Looking forward to more saddle time this weekend. Few more bits and this will be as good as can be expected. Really hoping this holds up offroad for moderate singletrack.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Down to 41 hoping to break into the respectable upper 30's with a lighter seatpost and saddle and I am possibly considering center drilling


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Got the new bb cups/bearings installed and the cheap mtb crank (no fd) and took it out last afternoon for some testing. Way mo betta! The original drive side cup was so bad it made the crank spindle appear to be bent when riding. Now it's smooth and no wobble......just like a real bike! 

Been mtb'ing in the woods near the house for a bunch of years. Some areas of trail road (and no road) with deep sugar sand areas and some areas of thigh high needle grass so thick that you can get off the bike and it will stand up on it's own (kick stands are way over rated, don't have one on there either).

The dolo worked real well, rolls across that sugar sand like problem? what problem? I was grinning ear to ear. Had a little rain a few days ago so the grass area was a tad sloppy and still not easy to move (just turning the cranks against that stuff takes a chunk of power) but the fatty made it (was following a deer trail, the width of the tires, so not tearing up mother nature.......).

In my neck of the woods, there's no hills so having a bike resembling the wt of a mack truck isn't that much of a factor. I'll probably ask for some nice tires for upcoming birthday but more for education of the difference between cheapos and nice tires rather than due to any real need. The wind makes up for the lack of hills for the road bike but is, of course, not a factor for a fatty in the woods. Great to pop out near sunset and check on my eagle friends.

For the price, with a little set up effort, this bike is just the ticket for my riding area.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Bought a set of Sunlite Crushers and Vee tubes. Got the boxes in the mail and was sent Vee Speedsters (which was what I wanted to order anyway but they were a little too much). 7.5 lbs difference in the weight between the stock Dolo and this combo. Rolls super easy now.

Also ordered a Alivio trigger shifter and Vuelta tripe chain ring, should be in tomorrow. Also called Pacific Cycles about my bent axle and the funny noise by BB is making. New rear wheel and BB in the mail. I have to give it to them the Customer Service is great.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

My Dolomite is pretty much complete, it's been a BLAST to build on, I think I've done most everything I can. The only thing in the future is an inexpensive suspension front fork or maybe a custom springer from a local fab shop. My Sow's Ear is almost a Silk Purse!


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Fatboy Jim said:


> My Dolomite is pretty much complete, it's been a BLAST to build on, I think I've done most everything I can. The only thing in the future is an inexpensive suspension front fork or maybe a custom springer from a local fab shop. My Sow's Ear is almost a Silk Purse!
> 
> FJ,
> 
> ...


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## HeyRitc (Feb 13, 2015)

My Dolo just came in today, having issues with the front brake. The rotor is straight, the wheel is centered, but the alignment is so far off that the rotor rubs on the metal body of the brake. I adjusted the pads as far out as they go, which is when I noticed it wasn't the pads the rotor was rubbing on. Could the brake mount on the fork have bent during shipping? Not sure what other adjustments I can make.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

HeyRitc said:


> My Dolo just came in today, having issues with the front brake. The rotor is straight, the wheel is centered, but the alignment is so far off that the rotor rubs on the metal body of the brake. I adjusted the pads as far out as they go, which is when I noticed it wasn't the pads the rotor was rubbing on. Could the brake mount on the fork have bent during shipping? Not sure what other adjustments I can make.


have you loosened the the 5mm bolts that attach the caliper to the mount? There is some adjustment to get there...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

doing the caliper alignment should work, but if not, let us know. Youtube search for "disc bikec caliper setup" should yield good results for a tutorial. Another possibility if the rotor is actually rubbing the inside of the brake caliper housing, the manufacturers put the brake spacers on incorrectly. There should be a washer, concave cup, and convex cup on each side of the caliper body.


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## HeyRitc (Feb 13, 2015)

> have you loosened the the 5mm bolts that attach the caliper to the mount? There is some adjustment to get there...


Yeah I messed around there, didn't work.



watts888 said:


> doing the caliper alignment should work, but if not, let us know. Youtube search for "disc bikec caliper setup" should yield good results for a tutorial. Another possibility if the rotor is actually rubbing the inside of the brake caliper housing, the manufacturers put the brake spacers on incorrectly. There should be a washer, concave cup, and convex cup on each side of the caliper body.


Here is a picture of how it sits:








Here is where its rubbing on the housing:


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Here is what I do in short. 
I back out the inboard pad as much as possible and release the cable completely. 
I loosen the bolt mounts. 
I make sure my disc and wheel are tight. 
I spin the wheel and listen for drag. 
I adjust the caliper by hand until I don't hear the rub. 
I loosely tighten down the caliper 
First I start in 1/8 turn increments tightening the inside inboard pad until I hear it rub. I back off an 1/8 turn. 
I fully tighten the caliper down
I attach the caliper cable and in 1/8 turns I do the same for the cable side. 
I like my brakes sensitive and kind of tight and I usually start this whole process with the barrel adjustments a full turn out at the lever and the caliper.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Looks like you should have a little movement left on the the screws that'll let you slide it sideways. Another possibility is the manufactures didn't put the axle nuts in properly. I don't remember if the dolo had symmetrical axle nuts or if one side nuts are 7.5mm instead of 5.0mm. I swapped my fork out and my axle, and the brakes. Basically, I'm a horrible resource for what is stock.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

In the wild......


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

*Dolo Transformation*



























Hello everyone, I'm yet another new Dolohead. (Just to get this out of the way ... I'm a graduate of the UBI steel frame builder course, I've ridden, toured and raced (amateur) in Europe and USA, and there's lots of bike info crammed away deep inside my brain. Somewhere.)

So here's the plan: we get the Dolomite and hold my free time ransom for ... one million minutes! So far, so good.

Out of the box I found:



a bent bottom bracket spindle
a bent rear derailleur hanger
misaligned disc tabs
and lots of heavy parts
Everything was easily fixed using standard tools or frame tools. The heaviness was solved by raiding my spare parts room. I did get a new seat post on ebay and some tubes and tires from the LBS.

And here's what I've changed:


Surly Nates
Specialized 3" tubes
lighter seat post
Devo seat
Specialized Enduro bars
Bontrager stem
XT 7-speed thumb shifter, friction option
Avid levers and BB7s
Shimano SLX derailleur
Shimano XT crankset with 22/32 and a bash ring

So in the future I'll most likely upgrade to a Mr. Whirly crankset (if it clears the chain stays), drill out the rims, and wait for the hubs to fail. I would appreciate any information about replacing the crank set with the Surly and hub alternatives. Since most of the stuff I've done was on the cheap, I'm not willing to buy Chris King hubs, etc., especially if I get the expensive crank. The Whirly would cost more than the bike and the present upgrades combined. We'll see. It would just be nice to have sealed bearings in my hubs.

The main goal was to have a survivalist bike on which I could commute to my part-time night job at a local bakery about 10 miles away. Trips take place all year - road conditions permitting - at dusk and returning before dawn.

And there you have it.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

I forgot to mention one thing. I replaced the bottom bracket cups and bearings with Campagnolo Super Record. Had to chase the threads twice to get a good clean fit.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

fatbiggitybike said:


> ... I replaced the bottom bracket cups and bearings with Campagnolo Super Record. Had to chase the threads twice to get a good clean fit.


Now that's an option I don't think we've seen here before. Any photos of the parts before install?
Where the threads slightly off or just dirty?


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

That's all I got for photos. Threads were decent to a point where I went deep. That's normal with any build I've seen or done - you start hitting the area where the stays enter the shell and things get tight. If you want to face the shell that's necessary, but I didn't go that far.

Them there parts sure do look pretty though, eh?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

fatbiggitybike said:


> Them there parts sure do look pretty though, eh?


Sure dem do. 
One of the prettiest we've seen.


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

Fatbiggity,

This is a similar replacement procedure to the one we have been doing with the YST bearings is it not? You are retaining the factory "axel" between the crank arms rather than replacing the entire BB assembly with a sealed unit. Kind of like mine?


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Yes, because I have yet to find any bottom bracket spindle that will clear the chain stays when the crank arms are mounted. Including that VP unit mentioned in other posts (that one will only clear a Pugsley). The Dolo chain stay spread is even wider than the Surly Ice Cream Truck. This is a problem. So far nothing is as wide as the OEM BB spindle. Makes me wanna visit my local machine shop for a spin on the lathe. Any machinists out there?


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

I think I can help you with that....

Go here and type in "sealed bearing solution" and bring up a post by Greg Green.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/


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## captain voltaveus (Jan 9, 2015)

Dolo Trike Transformation...

I've been busy the past few weeks reconfiguring my Dolo into a fatty trike for next years Burning Man. Today I got her assembled, and while not yet complete by a long shot, took her out for a spin and everything worked.

I purchased a trike kit on line, which of course was set up for a 5inch rear triangle span, not a Dolo. My intent is to have gears, and an internal geared trike hub is super spendy, so I sourced a trike hub that would accept a shimano cassette and had a place to mount the disc break disc. I then found a cheap used frame with mounting brackets for a disc break. I suppose I could have welded the rear triangle from a steel frame onto the Dolo frame, but I couldn't find a cheap one as all el-cheapo frames seem to be set up for caliper breaks. I did have to rebuild the hub's axel to fit the new wider span, but it seems to have worked out .

















I then sourced some cheap fatty rims on ebay and some trike hubs and watched a few you-tube videos on how to lace wheels. Not so mysterious after all !









I used the Dolo forks and threw on some ape hanger bars. It needed a shorter axel with the new frame, but its up and running.

The next steps will include welding a rack out of EMT for the rear where I plan to mount a propane tank with a 12V DC solenoid switch on the handle bars. When the switch is activated it will blow a flame thrower up out of a metal pipe with a lightning bolt nozzle fed with a second propane source pilot light.

Maybe not IN the wild, but WILD.


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

I worked in a cabinet shop that had a metal cnc that one of the guys ran. I called him up and he cut the male threads off and drilled and tapped for the regular 8mm bolt. If he couldn't do it I would have made the attempt myself. But it worked out great and I haven't had any issues. I also bought a set of the fatboy slims wheelset off ebay. They are going for $100. I swapped hubs out and reused solid axle to get the proper dropout spacing. I bought quick release adapters for solid axle for $30. Works great. Resale other stuff.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

captain voltaveus said:


> Dolo Trike Transformation......


Bwahahaha
The second I read _Dolo Trike Transformation_ I was about to rush off to you-know-where to post the link for you to find... wait a minute! Your own post.

Lacing is easy. Tensioning is easy. Getting everything straight and aligned isn't too hard. But to keep it there (so everything lasts), you need to stress-release the spokes to set the spokes in the hub and to a lessor degree the nipples in the rim. Then follow up with checking the tension and alignment again. Repeat until everything is fully solid. 
There's two methods I know of for stress release. I do both, and it's interesting that whichever one I do first, the other method releases some stress that the first method didn't. Surprisingly fun sense of accomplishment to build a solid wheel.



Canoe said:


> Same as truing up any wheel. Roger Musson has very good instructions on the process of doing that so the wheel gets and stays true. Wheelbuilding book for building bicycle wheels
> 
> As a wheel is a pre-tensioned structure, the spokes have to be tight for the wheel to be strong.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Llouie said:


> ... cut the male threads off and drilled and tapped for the regular 8mm bolt. ... a set of the fatboy slims wheelset ...


Sure looks good. 
I bet a few LBS get pissed after searching when someone comes in with a photo of your bike and says order me this same model of Bontrager.


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## captain voltaveus (Jan 9, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Bwahahaha
> The second I read _Dolo Trike Transformation_ I was about to rush off to you-know-where to post the link for you to find... wait a minute! Your own post.
> 
> Lacing is easy. Tensioning is easy. Getting everything straight and aligned isn't too hard. But to keep it there (so everything lasts), you need to stress-release the spokes to set the spokes in the hub and to a lessor degree the nipples in the rim. Then follow up with checking the tension and alignment again. Repeat until everything is fully solid.
> There's two methods I know of for stress release. I do both, and it's interesting that whichever one I do first, the other method releases some stress that the first method didn't. Surprisingly fun sense of accomplishment to build a solid wheel.


What are the methods for stress releasing the spokes? I'm interested in keeping this project up and running and definitely bouncing around the playa will be a bumpy ride. Probably a good idea to make sure everything is stressed and then re-trued before hitting the desert.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I'll have to see if I can find something similar described on the web. I don't feel right publishing out of Musson's book.
Methods might even be described over in the mtbr's Wheels & Tires.

Here's one discussion. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/stress-relieving-but-no-pings-662947.html
In that thread:
My first way is _Method 2_ in post #15.
My second method is quoted in blue in post #19 (and from two sources). 
I do "method 2" as I go along. The second way I put into play near the end, with final truing. There's a hole in the wood bench for the axle to fit when doing the later method, and a block of wood with a hole in it if one wants to position on the floor. Wood means you don't scratch your hub while doing this, and *the force is on the hub NOT on the axle and bearings*!!!.

The result is solid, no creaking, no wiggle, and it likes staying that way. Although some nipple/spoke prep/lock is recommended to prevent the nipples from loosening over time. Think of it as locktite for nipples-spokes. Most pastes help them turn easier when building too. Applied as you build, helps keep dirt and corrosion out. You can buy, or you can DIY a mix. Some put a drop of linseed oil at the nipple-spoke junction after the fact (with different results depending on the source/processing of the linseed oil).


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

So far, I'm not having any physical problems (especially after switching from toe clips to my street biking shoes with the plates to clip in to the pedal, plenty of float) so this question is more of a curious, learning more about these bikes than an actual need.

I notice that the cranks have about a 3/4" clearance off the chain stays (plenty of chain/tire clearance). Is there a crank spindle that can be had that fits but is a little shorter? Or am I into having to machine the standard unit too reduce that Q factor some?

I was thinking a 1/4" clearance to the stays would be adequate (I don't do much mudding) and perhaps more comfortable......please pardon my ignorance if these are dumb questions.


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## Swerny (Apr 1, 2004)

thought some of you may get a kick out of this.

Some "entrepreneurs" in Toronto, Canada seem to be flipping Dolo's for profit.

I don't think Walmart or Target sold them here.

Nice markup (even with the CAD in the tank):

26"mongoose snow and beach bike fat tire | mountain | City of Toronto | Kijiji


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

I knew somebody had to be making this. Thanks.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Here's a nice write up about the Mighty Mongoose Dolomite !
Frugal Friday: Fat Bikes - Mongoose Dolomite Review | Trails2Brews


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

rockonx2 said:


> Here's a nice write up about the Mighty Mongoose Dolomite !
> Frugal Friday: Fat Bikes - Mongoose Dolomite Review | Trails2Brews


ha ha
I wonder if he really has one. Three of the photos on his site are my photos, taken from this forum (right down to the tennis ball on my kickstand...).


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Swerny said:


> thought some of you may get a kick out of this. Some "entrepreneurs" in Toronto, Canada seem to be flipping Dolo's for profit. I don't think Walmart or Target sold them here.
> Nice markup (even with the CAD in the tank): 26"mongoose snow and beach bike fat tire | mountain | City of Toronto | Kijiji


If they shipped free to pick them up from a New York Walmart, they'd be paying 7% state tax, $7 CAD bridge fees, ~22% exchange, then 13% HST at the CA border - for personal use, so around $302 CAD if the bike is $200 USD. Imported for resale, I don't know what they'd be dinged at the border. Plus gas & time to go down and back.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CrackerJim said:


> ... I notice that the cranks have about a 3/4" clearance off the chain stays (plenty of chain/tire clearance). Is there a crank spindle that can be had that fits but is a little shorter? Or am I into having to machine the standard unit too reduce that Q factor some?
> I was thinking a 1/4" clearance to the stays would be adequate (I don't do much mudding) and perhaps more comfortable......please pardon my ignorance if these are dumb questions.


Not dumb to ask first. 
Can't recall hearing of a compatible spindle that would do what you want. But before you put something else in there, or get that spindle cut down, do check the clearance from the chain stays to your heels. Be a pain to have to pedal with your heels turned out.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Canoe said:


> ha ha
> I wonder if he really has one. Three of the photos on his site are my photos, taken from this forum (right down to the tennis ball on my kickstand...).


LOL! One of those pics is of my garage!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I've contemplated getting the following bottom bracket with one of the cranksets. From what I can gather off the internet, the 66mm chainline on the 100mm truvative bottom bracket leads to a 168mm axle length. This should give about 1mm on each side of the chainstay, which is far too narrow. This is with the regular howitzer crankset though which has a bigger negative offset. If you use a normal ISIS crankset, it's not supposed to have such a huge offset. This might give you more clearance at the chainstays along with a good bottom bracket. Unfortunately, I don't want to explain to my wife that I bought $100 in parts that won't work. If anybody out there is rich, let us know.

I think there is a good chance that the unicycle cranks would work though, but they have a 130mm length, which is ungodly short. And I don't know enough about unicycle cranks to know what gearing or offset is normal for them, if there is even a way to put a chainring on these crank, sor what chainring sizes are available.

Amazon.com : TruVativ Howitzer TeamBB 100mm shell 66mm chainline : Bottom Bike Brackets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Nashbar MT2 Mountain Bike Crankset : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Black Ops Crankset Sun Rep Unicycle Isis 5In Bk13 : Sports & Outdoors


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

chuckle

And he lists "Frame: aluminum/steel"
I'm thinking that "article" is a made-up story. 

O.K.
He's listing the Dolo weight as 42 pounds. Gotta be a fake. :lol:


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## Elad63 (Oct 14, 2009)

What is the contact info for manufacture when we have a warranty issue with our bikes.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

sticker on the frame. You'll probably need the serial #, which is on the sticker too.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Just to add some tires to the compatible list... 

V Mission 72 tpi are fine
Adding 2-3 mm studs to the V Mission 72 tpi tires are still fine
Snowshoe 120tpi 4.7's fit with plenty of room as well. About as wide as you can buy and still gobs of clearance 

Anyone having slight issues with wheel and tire hope due to the 2.7 Qtubes? Mine seem to have one spot in each tube which has has a pinch. I only i flate to 10psi. Curious if 15 would have any difference


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

skamatt23 said:


> Anyone having slight issues with wheel and tire hope due to the 2.7 Qtubes? Mine seem to have one spot in each tube which has has a pinch. I only i flate to 10psi. Curious if 15 would have any difference


Not sure what you mean by " tire hope". I'm using smaller lighter tubes and haven't seen any type of problem so far.......


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## Fatboy Jim (Dec 13, 2014)

I did have the same problem with the 2.75' Q-tubes, could not get them to seat a proper bead on my 120 TPI On-One Floaters with Weinman HL80 rims. I had to ditch them and go with Vee Rubber 4" tubes. I think I will try the Q-Tubes on my Dolomite with Vee Rubber missions and 72 TPI and see how they pan out. Cousin Cracker, Tire hop = out of round issue with the tire.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Fatboy Jim said:


> I did have the same problem with the 2.75' Q-tubes, could not get them to seat a proper bead on my 120 TPI On-One Floaters with Weinman HL80 rims. I had to ditch them and go with Vee Rubber 4" tubes. I think I will try the Q-Tubes on my Dolomite with Vee Rubber missions and 72 TPI and see how they pan out. Cousin Cracker, Tire hop = out of round issue with the tire.


Ah, gotcha. So this is a problem with the tubes having a thinner area that inflates too much and messes with the tire?


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Tire hop


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

I think when that tube gets to be towards the end of its stretch deformations are augmented. If it drives me nuts I'll get a proper tube but the weight savings is nice


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## dmccorm (Jan 21, 2015)

*Dolo in the wild - Custom Browncoat Edition*

I finally completed all of my custom work and nearly all components have been replaced. Started at a $191 Walgoose. Over the last month I worked most evenings on it. Had a few great rides, but today was the icing on the cake. Nice and "shiny". 

Credit to Canoe and others here on this tread with my motivation. I am grateful for all the knowledge and experience in this thread. It's a fun ride!































I sweat a few pounds on today's ride. First day in the 20's in over two weeks of single digit and sub-zero temps here in Michigan.


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## Voyager AL (Mar 8, 2013)

RocktonRider said:


> Hubs should be set up with a little play when they're off the bike, because tightening the axle nuts/QRs will add a little extra tightness to the bearings.
> 
> 1.) Tighten everything down with just a little play.
> 2.) Put the wheel back in the frame and tighten nuts/QRs.
> ...


i recently redid all my bearings, and tightened them to no play/no wiggle status...then took it for a 20 mile run...came back, and had to re-adjust the BB. it was loose. i believe it was the bearing retainers had been bent out of shape when built...i prolly tightened 1/2 turn on the adjustment, then locked it in...has been fine since..Wheel bearings havent needed re-adjusted.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

*Turn around bright eyes*

Me likey the orange Reflexite REF-DB Retroreflective V92 Daybright Tape at FindTape.com


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## poriggity (Sep 25, 2008)

Canoe said:


> ha ha
> I wonder if he really has one. Three of the photos on his site are my photos, taken from this forum (right down to the tennis ball on my kickstand...).





blown240 said:


> LOL! One of those pics is of my garage!


You guys should be contacting the "writer" of that article. Regardless of whether or not the photos are on the internet, they are STILL your property.

Regarding the Dolomite, I've been eyeballing this thing for quite a while now, and I may have to pick one up soon... For the price, seems as though it's hard to beat, and it'll be a great winter bike for me.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

poriggity said:


> Regarding the Dolomite, I've been eyeballing this thing for quite a while now, and I may have to pick one up soon... For the price, seems as though it's hard to beat, and it'll be a great winter bike for me.


As long as you're good with basic bike mechanics, this bike is worth it. I did replace the bottom bracket cups/bearings and got a cheap (manual shift) mtb crank. Re-packed the wheel bearings etc. If you haven't already, read the first page of this thread for tips etc on the bike.

It now rides/pedals real nice. Since no hills around here, I'm not worried about weight reduction etc.

Glad I bought this bike......


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

poriggity said:


> You guys should be contacting the "writer" of that article. Regardless of whether or not the photos are on the internet, they are STILL your property...


Not worth my time. 
And the last thing I'd want is that kind of an ass having my email address.


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## poriggity (Sep 25, 2008)

CrackerJim said:


> As long as you're good with basic bike mechanics, this bike is worth it. I did replace the bottom bracket cups/bearings and got a cheap (manual shift) mtb crank. Re-packed the wheel bearings etc. If you haven't already, read the first page of this thread for tips etc on the bike.
> 
> It now rides/pedals real nice. Since no hills around here, I'm not worried about weight reduction etc.
> 
> Glad I bought this bike......


I can handle most bike mechanics.. I ride a walmart bike for Petes sake.. I better know how to work on a bike.


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## poriggity (Sep 25, 2008)

Canoe said:


> Not worth my time.
> And the last thing I'd want is that kind of an ass having my email address.


Hence the reason you can create multiple free Gmail accounts... I'd be up in arms, but that's just me


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

poriggity said:


> I can handle most bike mechanics.. I ride a walmart bike for Petes sake.. I better know how to work on a bike.


Hey, you're good to go. Let us know how it goes when you get the bike!


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

*Hub weight comparison*

Two photos. Two weights. Stock versus origin8. Drill and rebuild of the front wheel is underway.

Quick question, has anyone tried cold setting the rear triangle for a 170 origin8 hub? I want to know if there are any chain line issues. I have the tools and ability but could probably benefit from other attempts, successful or not. Thanks.


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## Gerfzilla (Dec 29, 2014)

think i'll go w these 32 hole 190mm hub. fill in the 36 spoke holes w aluminum braze rod and redrill for 32 holes. 32 spoke holes seem to be the most common route for these fat bike wheels today.

snow bike bearing hub /beach bike hub /fat tire bike hub /135 190mm hub /32holes-in Bicycle Hubs from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

fatbiggitybike said:


> has anyone tried cold setting the rear triangle for a 170 origin8 hub? I want to know if there are any chain line issues. I have the tools and ability but could probably benefit from other attempts, successful or not. Thanks.


I did this to another fat bike, and it messed up the chain line. it lines up more with the small ring on a triple, then the center ring... If that makes sense...


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

blown240 said:


> I did this to another fat bike, and it messed up the chain line. it lines up more with the small ring on a triple, then the center ring... If that makes sense...


That does makes sense if I run the two inner rings with an outer bash guard or just a single inner ring. I can always undo what I done did and pretend I didn't do it, because it's steel. Or, whip out the torch and reconfigure the whole rear triangle. That could be hours of fun ...


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

fatbiggitybike said:


> That does makes sense if I run the two inner rings with an outer bash guard or just a single inner ring. I can always undo what I done did and pretend I didn't do it, because it's steel. Or, whip out the torch and reconfigure the whole rear triangle. That could be hours of fun ...


I love steel bikes for that exact reason! If you have the skill, then get the torches out!

Here is a Beast I did that too. I shortened the chain stays, lowered the bottom bracket, and slackened the head tube. Its now a legit 34lb fat bike with big brakes and a 2X9:


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

*how to lighten a dolomite*

after seeing how that thread got blown up I figured I would throw together a Dolomite on what I would consider to be on a budget and improve rideability.

1. Tires! These will be the single biggest upgrade you can make. For cost sake, I would look for a set of craigslist or eBay Missions. These are spec'd on a ton of bikes and in my opinion have gotten an overly negative reputation and are actually decent tires and relatively light weight. I would bet you could get your hands on a pair for $40-$50.

2. Tubes, regular 26x2.3 tubes are working just fine on this bike I built, and weigh alot less than any 26x4 tubes. Also a good opportunity to change to presta.

3. handlebar, stem and seatpost. These items are super easy upgrades. There are guys at the swap meets practically giving away 2-3 year old parts that will weigh alot less than the stock pieces. This is a great opportunity to shed weight, as well as dial in your fit with a shorter or longer stem and wider handlebar. Also hold out for something with a 31.8mm handlebar and clamp, the stiffness will pay off huge on the handling department.

4. a Sram MRX shifter has really good feel, weighs very little, and is practically free on craigslist or a swap meet. Also a good time to change the shift housing to Shimano, it will flex less than the stock stuff and is cheap, the shifting performance will be instantly noticeable.

5. change the brake levers out to all alloy pieces. the resin part of the stock levers flexes and gives the brakes a vague feeling.

6. the BMX industry has platform pedals figure out. resin low profile bmx pedals have a big surface area, are light and cheap.

all in all, if your diligent you could get this build done for under $300 and have yourself a respectable 39lbs Fatbike. I rode yesterday with a guy on a brand new ICT that was 41lbs. go figure.

:thumbsup:


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

skota23 said:


> ...I would throw together a Dolomite on what I would consider to be on a budget and improve rideability...


Nice!

If I bought a bike like that, the first thing I'd do is strip it down to the frame, then slowly build it back up with either parts bin stuff or craigslist parts that are, like you say, a couple years old but lighter and relatively cheap.

Could those red rims be run tubeless?

I'm very new to the fat bike scene, but I'm really intrigued by them and may consider a purchase soon.

The weight of these bikes has been a turn off and the super light ones cost thousands $$$.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

This has me wanting one!


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

blown240 said:


> I love steel bikes for that exact reason! If you have the skill, then get the torches out!
> 
> Here is a Beast I did that too. I shortened the chain stays, lowered the bottom bracket, and slackened the head tube. Its now a legit 34lb fat bike with big brakes and a 2X9:


I've built 5 "skinny" steel frames so far - I'll just dive in and squash the rear of my Targoose (Target was cheaper than Walmart at the time). The worst that could happen is that I have to start over. Do you have any detailed photos of your work? I use the C.A.S.E. method of design as well as the book.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

fatbiggitybike said:


> I've built 5 "skinny" steel frames so far - I'll just dive in and squash the rear of my Targoose (Target was cheaper than Walmart at the time). The worst that could happen is that I have to start over. Do you have any detailed photos of your work? I use the C.A.S.E. method of design as well as the book.


Sounds like a plan. Here are build threads for the 2 beasts I have done:

Hard tail
Building Another Beast | The UNDERGROUND!

Full Susp:
My Beast | The UNDERGROUND!


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## WalrusWrangler (Feb 27, 2015)

What is the maximum tire width you can put on a dolomite? I wanted to mount kenda juggernaut 4.5 inch tires on the bike. Sorry for the rudimentary question.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Unfortunately, it's not that straight forward.


You need the tire to clear the chain stays: both beside the tires and as the stays curve to meet up with the bottom-bracket. That curve means the stays have a "profile", not a simple measurement. 
The profile of a given fat tire can vary a lot depending on the rim it's on. You'll have to be looking for info of tires you're considering with them on 100mm rims.
You'll need to check that the profile of the tire fits within the profile of the curving chain-stays. 
As a starting point, you need to know the max width of the tires: of the casing and of the knobs/tread at the shoulder (on 100mm rims). And you need to know the diameter at the shoulder and at the centre-line of the tire. That way you can decide if you're in the ballpark or not with _your_ Dolo's measurements. 
As the Dolo has at least two variances of stay clearances/shapes/profiles. The original one and a later one. _There are reports of later Dolos (later summer/fall 2014) having chain stays that are "around 3/4" narrower".​_So what fits an early Dolo and what fits a later Dolo are not necessarily the same.
And some tires stretch over time. 
And you need the chain to clear the tire casing too. Particularly watch out for that if you've changed the chain-rings/bottom-bracket/spindle from stock. 
This is why I started a post to try to have all of the tires that people have tried on a Dolo, and if they did or did not fit, and if they did, then for how long. 
Tires tried on Dolomites

If you're lucky, you'll find someone who has tried those tires on a Dolo of the same chain-stay "vintage" as yours.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

they fit on a bike I have here.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

skota23 said:


> they fit on a bike I have here.


O.K., good news. 
Original chain-stays or later chain-stays?
How much clearance: just fit, comfortable room or tons of room?
How long have you had them on? Have they stretched?


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## Ducksguts (Feb 28, 2015)

Thanks for the great info! I have installed a megarange freewheel and want to install a front derailleur. I picked up a direct mount shimano derailleur w/an Origin 8 adaptor, but I'm still a couple inches shy of reaching the large sprocket of the triple I've installed. Any thoughts?


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Although I've been around bikes and done all the maintenance etc. I've never got into switching parts around.

In looking at the info on the first page, it shows the spindle at 189mm and the bottom bracket shell is "about 175mm". I'm confused on this. I probably don't know my bike parts names like I should but I thought the bottom bracket shell would be the transverse "tube" in the frame that the bb cups screw into. I measure this on my frame and it's 100mm.

I'm interested in getting a spindle that's slightly shorter than the 189mm, I'm thinking about 170mm. I assume this is a JIS spindle. If I buy a spindle at 170mm (if available), am I looking for one that fit's a 100mm shell?

I want to make sure the bearing surfaces/races built into the spindle are at the right width to fit. The short spindle will still have 9mm +- clearance off the chain stays and by big a$$ feet will still clear etc.

Thanks for any help.


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## Ducksguts (Feb 28, 2015)

I could admire your work all day, but I should get a life!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CrackerJim said:


> ... In looking at the info on the first page, it shows the spindle at 189mm and the bottom bracket shell is "about 175mm"... I measure this on my frame and it's 100mm.


quite right
I just measured mine, and it is 100mm.

If you're going for a shorter spindle, watch out for cranks and/or your heels clearing the chainstays. Newer Dolos have more clearance for this ("3/4" - note the quotes), but less for tires.

Why do you want a shorter spindle?


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Canoe said:


> quite right
> I just measured mine, and it is 100mm.
> 
> If you're going for a shorter spindle, watch out for cranks and/or your heels clearing the chainstays. Newer Dolos have more clearance for this ("3/4" - note the quotes), but less for tires.
> ...


Although I'm not getting any pain etc, it just feels odd having the pedals that far apart. If I can get a spindle in the 165- 170mm range, I've got chain stay and foot clearance and can get the pedals 3/4 to just under an 1" closer together.

I really have no idea if that's enough, of a change, to make much difference but I like messing around and experimenting. If the spindle isn't expensive, I can find out for myself what difference it makes.

One of these days, am thinking of an alloy framed bike with bluto on the front and then the dolo would be back up/visitor's bike. If I can get a hold of the shorter spindle and get some edumukation, I'll know better what's what when I'm reading about bikes that might fit the bill. I'd have a better understanding of the Q factor as relates to my legs/hips etc


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

There is this post
Dolo tread/q-factor, crank-stay clearances

I assume you've got a newer Dolo. If you'd care to provide those measurements to me to add to that page...


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

With the mtb crank and stock spindle, I'm 18mm both sides crank arm to chain stay clearance. I'll measure the crank to rear axles and wheel base but not sure what is meant by:

1) tread (I've got the stock 4" tire, no where near 9".....lol)

2) outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim (would think the inside dimension of the chain stays at the rim location would be better?)

3) rear axle center to pedal center (pedal in rear position?)

I can also put the stock cranks on long enough to measure clearance if that's helpful.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tread is the other term for q-factor
outside-outside shows the limits for the cranks
(inside-inside is useful for tire clearance, but nothing to do with q-factor/tread, and it's grossly insufficient as you really need the curved profile of the stays to compare to the profile of a tire inflated on 100mm rims.)
cranks back on would complete the newer stock measurements, please

Provide the inner spread if you'd like. I can get those off my Dolo and Beast to complete a new row in the table.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Canoe said:


> tread is the other term for q-factor
> outside-outside shows the limits for the cranks
> (inside-inside is useful for tire clearance, but nothing to do with q-factor/tread, and it's grossly insufficient as you really need the curved profile of the stays to compare to the profile of a tire inflated on 100mm rims.)
> cranks back on would complete the newer stock measurements, please
> ...


Also, don't forget to explain the axle center to pedal center dimension - where's the pedal in that measurement.

I'll do the outside and inside measurements for the chain stays so people looking at tires have info as well as people looking at cranks. Gotcha on the inside measurements, perhaps measured at the rim location and at the knob location on the stock tires might provide some useful info.

I can get the stock cranks back on in the next day or so. I'll name my mtb crank and get measurements on that also, just for fun.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

The crank is aimed at the rear axle in that measurement. 

Inner or outer at the stock knobs are only relevant for that tire. It makes the tire you're replacing the reference point... If you have the diameter from the axle at that point, it is more likely to be of use. But can you get the diameter or just the line-of-sight from the axle end to that point; then are all axles the same width, placed on the hub identical, etc..

What we really need is a tireless rim on the bike and a profile made. I'm messing around with tubeless options - I should do this for the original stock stays.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi Canoe, How are you? Have you seen the newest Mongoose Dolomite's twin brother? Malus? Looks about the same to me? Costs a little more. What do you think? Gary 
Mongoose Men's 26-Inch Malus All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Here's a coupe pics from yesterday. Upstate NY


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Looks like a DOLO to me, only chrome or silver


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

I've seen them named that on ebay, but it does look like a Dolomite.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Canoe et al


Got in the shop this afternoon and came up with measurements; I have a Sunrace Fluid Drive triple ring, no FD and using the big ring as a guard and pedal with the middle and granny - I've included measurements with the stock cranks put back on and with the mtb crank:

Tread (Q factor) Mtb 259mm stock 253 (from outside face of crank arms)

Width of the chainstays (at the rim edge) inside 150mm, out 191mm
(+3" from rim edge) inside 105mm out 150mm
(note the chain stays start to curve in 1 1/8" past the rim point)

Crank clearance from chainstays (stock spindle) Mtb 20mm Stock 17mm

Rear axle to crank (cl to cl) 475mm to pedal mtb 307mm stock 310mm

wheelbase 45 1/4"

Also for additional info - there is 12mm chain to tire (stock tire / wheel) clearance, when on the granny ring and biggest cog, on this setup.

Hope this info is useful. Let me know if I need to clarify anything......


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Canoe said:


> O.K., good news.
> Original chain-stays or later chain-stays?
> How much clearance: just fit, comfortable room or tons of room?
> How long have you had them on? Have they stretched?


pretty sure its an early bike.
there was about 10mm on the non-drive and 20mm on the drive
they are stretched, I've been riding them for months


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## metatr0n (Sep 8, 2010)

Good morning everyone (morning here in Austin, at least)! A Dolo arrived at my doorstep last Friday and I spent the better part of the weekend assembling and tuning it. I'm very happy with it so far, despite the weight.

This thread is great and has been a wealth of information. So many of you are doing awesome things with a $200 Walmart bike. Your work is inspirational!

*ONE THING:* I tried searching this thread but was unable to find any information regarding quick release conversion for the hubs. Has anyone tried it? I'd really like to be able to remove the front wheel easily for transport.

And finally, here's a pic of my steamroller:


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

They've come to canada, after a fashion. In canada we really don't have good mongoose distribution even though Dorel, which owns them, is canadian. Walmart Canada doesn't see any perceived value in offering such bikes because there's this stupid anti-dumping duty on bicycles under a $1000 retail that's been on the revenue canada books for roughly twenty years. On a bike at the dolomite end of the price scale its nearly 100%. Canadian Tire stores on the other hand do see a value in offering bikes like this though, and they distribute the cousin brand Schwinn to their stores, and now Schwinn has the Biggity DLX which is black paint with red decals and still white rims, but otherwise is the Dolomite. Still has the same stupid 7 pound tires but they're no longer white walls fortunetly. They're $360CDN in the stores, and they also have a geared/mech disc 20" x 4 1/4 tire kid's fat called the Tex for $300CDN which is black with neon green but unfortunetly comes with slick tires for pavement.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

metatr0n said:


> Good morning everyone (morning here in Austin, at least)! A Dolo arrived at my doorstep last Friday and I spent the better part of the weekend assembling and tuning it. I'm very happy with it so far, despite the weight.
> 
> This thread is great and has been a wealth of information. So many of you are doing awesome things with a $200 Walmart bike. Your work is inspirational!
> 
> ...


No, You don't have quick release hubs. I don't even think your fork would accept a quick release wheel, but I could be wrong. Here's another chat forum just for the Mongoose Fatbikes that's slowly growing. MONGOOSE FAT BIKES - Index


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Have you guys seen the Mongoose Malus yet. Just seen it on sports authority - Mongoose Men's 26-Inch Malus All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com

Does not say what material the frame is made of. Looks like it 1x7 with disc brakes.

*****


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

scar said:


> Have you guys seen the Mongoose Malus yet. Just seen it on sports authority - Mongoose Men's 26-Inch Malus All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com
> 
> Does not say what material the frame is made of. Looks like it 1x7 with disc brakes.
> 
> *****


I seen it at the MC Sports in Springfield, Ohio when I bought my Vinson last week. It's just a knock off of the Dolomite painted silver with black silver rims.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

@ DeeEight How did you find out about the Biggity Dlx at Canadian Tire ? I've been to a few stores, checked on their website, etc. and didn't find any info. Schwinn has posted a picture of it, but I can't find anything on it. Thanks!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CrackerJim said:


> ...Crank clearance from chainstays (stock spindle) Mtb 20mm Stock 17mm...


Right-hand (drive side) and left-hand sides are the same?


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

How's it going.... Don't listen to the guy that says your fork won't accept a quick release hub. Does he even own a bike? Front hub spacing is 135mm, same as typical mtb rear hubs. You could just overhaul hub and exchange axles if you had a hub from an old mtb wheelset that you weren't using. Rear qr mtb axles cost around $10 on ebay. Even though threading may be different with qr axle, the cones and nuts from the qr axle work on the different threads. But the opposite is not true, cones and nuts from solid do not work on qr axle.... strange but true (my wheels prove it). Or you can get qr adapters that fit on the solid axles to make them qr. I have some pics of my rear wheel in previous postings. (somewhere in pg 58). They cost like $30 a set on ebay. Swopping the rear hub axle is cheaper and works no problem though.

My Dolomite is the one with the Bontrager decals


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Llouie said:


> How's it going.... Don't listen to the guy that says your fork won't accept a quick release hub. Does he even own a bike? Front hub spacing is 135mm, same as typical mtb rear hubs. You could just overhaul hub and exchange axles if you had a hub from an old mtb wheelset that you weren't using. Rear qr mtb axles cost around $10 on ebay. Even though threading may be different with qr axle, the cones and nuts from the qr axle work on the different threads. But the opposite is not true, cones and nuts from solid do not work on qr axle.... strange but true (my wheels prove it). Or you can get qr adapters that fit on the solid axles to make them qr. I have some pics of my rear wheel in previous postings. (somewhere in pg 58). They cost like $30 a set on ebay. Swopping the rear hub axle is cheaper and works no problem though.
> 
> My Dolomite is the one with the Bontrager decals


If you look back at what I said. I said I could be wrong. Why didn't you just quote what I said in the first place. Seems like you don't know how the site works here. And yes I do own a bike, I own many bikes.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Right-hand (drive side) and left-hand sides are the same?


It is for the mtb, I'll double check the stock as I didn't put the off drive stock crank on just the drive side. I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the stock crank arms would be symmetrical also.......


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I know the crankset axle is symetrical (I measured it), so it's a fair assumption that the crankarms are symetrical. I wouldn't bet on the frame being symetrical, by design or by quality control.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

In regards to the QR swap on the front axle, easily done. I bought one of these off amazon, came with the required cones. Just swap the dust shield over (large socket and a light tap with a rubber malet or block of wood will loosen them), and swap out the axle. Thing's I've found out, the front hub width on my dolo's fork measured out at 133mm, and the original width of the wheel was 130mm. The following axle will still work, you'll just have one or two extra threads per side. One thing to keep in mind is the disc brake offset. I've done so many mods on mine that I don't remember the stock configuration, but from what I do remember, the following axle will work fine in regards to disc brake offset if you simply place one of the washers from your old axle between the new cone and lock washer. Or you can grab a tape measure/caliper and verify yourself. You'll also need a QR skewer, but you knew that already, right?
http://smile.amazon.com/HUB-AXLE-SE...F8&qid=1425477574&sr=8-6&keywords=qr+135+axle


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

MTB29erCurt said:


> I seen it at the MC Sports in Springfield, Ohio when I bought my Vinson last week. It's just a knock off of the Dolomite painted silver with black silver rims.


Is it just me, or is the fork slightly tapered? Photo doesn't represent what's actually for sale?

I do like these rims a bit better than the red dolo, but at the end of the day, THEY ARE FAT. and fat bikes are awesome.


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## thunder (Aug 5, 2004)

*2 dolomites hitting tomorrow. Whoops*

Ok, so i didn't trust Walmart to deliver this thing on time so I purchased one on amazon when the price dropped. Walmart wouldn't cancel it monday since it was already being processed for shipping. So now I have 2 on the way! Ha. Don't know whether to try and return one to walmart or just assemble them both and see which is nicer. Walmart may not take it back since they don't stock them in stores anyway. Anyway, I have major dolomite fever people! Can't wait to start messing with it. 
Mainly using to ride around with the kids to restaurants and the park so $219 is right on. Also like the fact I can get in shape a little quicker on it since it weighs a ton. My mountain bike (heckler) is just way to easy to ride around the neighborhood on. Will probably add a plasti dip green paint job soon too!


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

watts888 said:


> Is it just me, or is the fork slightly tapered? Photo doesn't represent what's actually for sale?
> 
> I do like these rims a bit better than the red dolo, but at the end of the day, THEY ARE FAT. and fat bikes are awesome.


Yes, the fork does look like it's tapered. All the other parts are the same, brakes, rear derailleur and the handlebars. And yes the frame is steel. I only had a minute to look at it cause the store was closing.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

thunder said:


> Ok, so i didn't trust Walmart to deliver this thing on time so I purchased one on amazon when the price dropped. Walmart wouldn't cancel it monday since it was already being processed for shipping. So now I have 2 on the way! Ha. Don't know whether to try and return one to walmart or just assemble them both and see which is nicer. Walmart may not take it back since they don't stock them in stores anyway. Anyway, I have major dolomite fever people! Can't wait to start messing with it.
> Mainly using to ride around with the kids to restaurants and the park so $219 is right on. Also like the fact I can get in shape a little quicker on it since it weighs a ton. My mountain bike (heckler) is just way to easy to ride around the neighborhood on. Will probably add a plasti dip green paint job soon too!


Yes, you can return the one from Walmart to your local store. I did it twice on the two that came to me damaged. What luck, huh.


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## thunder (Aug 5, 2004)

Why don't I see any reviews for the Dolomite in the fat bike review section? We have 61 pages here of info but no reviews over there. Can't wait to get mine assembled this weekend.


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## cyclop (Jul 11, 2012)

As for Canadian Mongoose fans, Ironhorse Dolomite is back on the Costco website. $299 Canadian dollars, shipping included.


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## Ducksguts (Feb 28, 2015)

*Update: I have successfully achieved 21 speeds on the dolomite.*



Ducksguts said:


> Thanks for the great info! I have installed a megarange freewheel and want to install a front derailleur. I picked up a direct mount shimano derailleur w/an Origin 8 adaptor, but I'm still a couple inches shy of reaching the large sprocket of the triple I've installed. Any thoughts?


A longer bolt bolt and a spacer from the hardware store was all it took. I haven't put it through all the paces yet, but riding in my neighborhood was great. The big cog in front and the low gear on the megarange is iffy, but I don't think I'll be in that configuration too often.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

thunder said:


> Why don't I see any reviews for the Dolomite in the fat bike review section? We have 61 pages here of info but no reviews over there. ...


'cause a review of a Dolomite would be old news.


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## Millera1 (Nov 9, 2014)

Orderd one from Walmart on sale a few weeks ago I got around to getting it together last weekend out of the box the shifter was broke and not usable and missing a bolt for the neck to hold on the bars so's gave P-Cycles s call great Cus service and new parts were on the way when I was on the phone I ordered a set of beast bars for better riding position 13 bucks well every thing showed up on the my door step Thursday well come to find out the Beast bars are too small for the neck to clamp down on it ther any fix other than a new neck or bars. 

Thanks


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Millera1 said:


> Orderd one from Walmart on sale a few weeks ago I got around to getting it together last weekend out of the box the shifter was broke and not usable and missing a bolt for the neck to hold on the bars so's gave P-Cycles s call great Cus service and new parts were on the way when I was on the phone I ordered a set of beast bars for better riding position 13 bucks well every thing showed up on the my door step Thursday well come to find out the Beast bars are too small for the neck to clamp down on it ther any fix other than a new neck or bars.
> 
> Thanks


LOL, You are trying to make a 22.2mm handlebar fit a 25.4 handlebar stem. You need these shims Bicycle Handlebar Shim Stem Reducer Aluminum Alloy 22 2mm to 25 4mm 7 8" to 1" | eBay

But, If I were you. I would type in 25.4 Handlebars on ebay and find a nice high rise mountain bike handlebar. Your choice.


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## Millera1 (Nov 9, 2014)

Curt 

thanks


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Your Welcome, Millera1.

You really should stay with a mountain bike handlebar. It's your bike.


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## thunder (Aug 5, 2004)

Ok, I put together my dolomite. Man, what fun! Exactly what I wanted. Mine came with the newer more aggressive style tread tires. Anyone weight these ones yet? I'd still like to lose some tire weight if possible. But I'm also content with these for a while and like the workout. Looking at the Vee missions. Looks like good $90 well spent on the 120tpi ones. Then I'm going tubeless for sure! Love it on my 26er.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Azonic B-52 25.4mm Riser Handlebar > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Handlebars and Stems | Jenson USA

super lightweight scandium bar with 2" or rise that will work with the stock stem. And the stock stem isn't too bad. Aluminum alloy. Just be careful not to overtighten the bolts, or they could strip.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

thunder said:


> ... newer more aggressive style tread tires. Anyone weight these ones yet? I'd still like to lose some tire weight if possible. ... Looks like good $90 well spent on the 120tpi ones. ...


See the very first post, then the second link (your stock tire is ~2900g, tube is ~705g). So going with a better tube is an immediately weight and roll resistance savings, and you can see how the even more would happen with better tires.

With fat tires, weight isn't king. Wheel mass gives you some momentum for getting over obstacles/terrain; it's a matter of balance. That said, the stock rubber are pigs: both weight (acceleration, carrying it around) and rolling resistance (and better grip, etc.) are yours to be had with better tires. BUT, before you rush out to spend money on tires, take some time to look around the forum at that types of tires are used in different terrain/weather/seasons. Don't end up having to spend tire money twice.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

*Crimp my ride*









Because I couldn't resist a used Surly Mr. Whirly on ebay ($80!) ... I managed to make it fit with spacers in- and out-board of the bearings and by crimping the chain stays in a bench vice. I got a few millimeters clearance on each side and can get more if I need to re-squish them. The crankset came with a 20-30-bash combo, 175mm arms and a useless 68/70 spindle. I found a 100mm spindle at Pro's Closet for $40 and used some old Shimano bearings from the parts bin. The spacers are old bottom bracket lock rings on the inside and headset spacers on the outside. Both sides have full spline contact so it should be fine. Or so I hope.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

*Dolomite sucked me in*

First post on this forum and it's only b/c of the dolomite why I registered. I have a bike that cost 10x this bike. All the riding I do around here is very steep technical climbs. I'd be able to survive with a bike that simply had a granny gear. So that's what I did w/ the dolomite.










I cut off the chainring and welded a 14t cog. This is the first time in the 10 years I have been riding these hills that there was a bike I could actually climb out of the saddle w/o slipping the rear tire. The fat tires and 10psi make for a very nice ride over the rocky trails. Here is the dolomite at the top of a climb that I would consider steep. I've actually never seen anyone else try going up this climb w/ a bike before. It climbs 2000' in 2 miles. On my more expensive bike there are parts I have to walk it, w/ the dolomite and this low low gearing I was able to ride the whole thing.










I have since added a 24T chainring as well so I can get a little speed riding on the street to/from the trail. But I'm more than happy with it, it'll probably get used as my primary mountain bike. The only thing I'd like to do is the tire upgrade to reduce some of the weight. But I'm not clear if the On-One floater is as wide as the stock tire.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

mulepic said:


> The only thing I'd like to do is the tire upgrade to reduce some of the weight. But I'm not clear if the On-One floater is as wide as the stock tire.


I see that you have the new tires on your Dolomite. I can say that the new tires are not as wide as the tores on the first release since I have 1 of each. To install the front tire on the first tires, I needed to take the caliper off the fork to let me install the front wheel. On 2nd (recent purchase with new tires) the tire slipped past the caliper with much of an issue


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

The new tires measure 4.2" on the wheel. So when people talk about huge weight savings from new tires are they talking about the older wider tires or my new ones? In other words would I not see much benefit from the On-Floater: On-One Floater Fat Tyre | On - One ??


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

You'd probably see benefit because they are lighter, but you'll see good benefit just by swapping out the stock tube to a 26x2.4-2.7 downhill tube, especially up front.

I'm amazed you could stay up with a 14T up front. If I was geared that low, I'd fall over sideways just because of lack of momentum.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

watts888 said:


> You'd probably see benefit because they are lighter, but you'll see good benefit just by swapping out the stock tube to a 26x2.4-2.7 downhill tube, especially up front.
> 
> I'm amazed you could stay up with a 14T up front. If I was geared that low, I'd fall over sideways just because of lack of momentum.


You are right, it does become a balancing act. But w/ that fat of a tire it's much easier to do. In fact, it's so easy to climb with I can ride up stairs with it (totally surprised me the first time I did it).

Where do I get these tubes?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

mulepic said:


> The new tires measure 4.2" on the wheel. So when people talk about huge weight savings from new tires are they talking about the older wider tires or my new ones? In other words would I not see much benefit from the On-Floater: On-One Floater Fat Tyre | On - One ??


Take a look at the very first post, and the one some posts below it with the measurements.

Original stock tires are around ~2830g. New knobby stocks are ~2900g. Stock tubes are ~705g. 
The On-One Floaters are pretty much the all around tire in the low price range. There are cheaper, but there's a reason they're cheaper, dropping in price and some LBS will almost give them away.

Lose the stock tubes for DH tubes. Lighter, but more importantly, easier to shape into and out of the contact patch for better grip/conforming to the terrain and less roll resistance. Same for better tires.

For your hill climbing, don't forget to try lower PSI (8 lbs?, 7 lbs?) to let the tire conform to the terrain more for better grip. Expect to have to pump it up a bit for the descent. Once you've got "real" tires on it, check the rest of the forum for the tons of already posted advice on PSI for various tires on various terrain. With fat tires, there can be a huge difference between 8 and 10 PSI. Below 10 PSI, people are setting their tires to 1/2 lbs, or even 1/4 lbs pressures.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Take a look at the very first post, and the one some posts below it with the measurements.
> 
> Original stock tires are around ~2830g. New knobby stocks are ~2900g. Stock tubes are ~705g.
> The On-One Floaters are pretty much the all around tire in the low price range. There are cheaper, but there's a reason they're cheaper, dropping in price and some LBS will almost give them away.
> ...


I have read the first post, that's where I read about On-One tires, but I guess you're implying that they are junk. As for DH tubes, I guess what makes them DH is their thickness? Is it this thickness that is needed b/c of the extra volume of air we're putting in them to fill the fat tire?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

No the on-one are not junk. They seem to be the most popular and all-around of the inexpensive tires. There are cheaper tires, and those are most commonly not well regarded; stay clear ( technically they are an improvement over the stock tires, but should not be considered if you're going to be off of pavement or urban bike paths - really...). 
There are some recent posts about the coloured on-ones experiencing some odd bubbling, but that appears to be the exception. Search for those threads. 

As your climbing is rather technical, I'd suggest the on-ones as a minimum upgrade. Search the forum for what others are using for technical climbing, both for tires and for PSI. 

DH, thickness (check the weight as an indicator where they don't claim DH), stretch to fill the space.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Canoe said:


> No the on-one are not junk. They seem to be the most popular and all-around of the inexpensive tires. There are cheaper tires, and those are most commonly not well regarded; stay clear ( technically they are an improvement over the stock tires, but should not be considered if you're going to be off of pavement or urban bike paths - really...).
> There are some recent posts about the coloured on-ones experiencing some odd bubbling, but that appears to be the exception. Search for those threads.
> 
> As your climbing is rather technical, I'd suggest the on-ones as a minimum upgrade. Search the forum for what others are using for technical climbing, both for tires and for PSI.
> ...


I'm one of the guys with the lumpy colored floaters (not sure how many of us there are, but I've been pretty outspoken about it)
The floaters are awesome, and def. My go to for all around riding. They handle it all well. If you are unlucky like me and end up with a lumpy set, they will waranty them and send you new ones. It may take some time, but they stand behind their products.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

These are the tubes I bought. they work, but they did bulge when airing them up. sometimes difficult to get the tire to seat properly once the tube bulges, but it can be done. the price you pay for lossing about 2 pounds rolling weight.
Amazon.com : Avenir Regular Schrader Valve MTB Tube (26 x 2.4-2.75) : Bike Tubes : Sports & Outdoors

I have a 120 tpi Vee Mission tires, and they work fine. I anticipate it will be much better on the dirt than it was in the snow, and it was still good in the snow. I somewhat kept up with a guy on a Fatboy with 4.7" ground control tires. It's probably not as good as the Floater, but for $30 a tire and no shipping, it was worth it.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I don't think anybody makes pads that will fit. I compared them against some Tektro Novellas and Avid BB5 and they are different size. Just get better brakes. Even with new pads, in time the quality of the brake caliper housing starts to show wear. They are good brakes once set up, but under normal use, they won't last. I could get the front and rear to lock up under heavy braking, but as time went by, I could feel the pads start to move around inside the housing. I'd recommend Avid BB7 mechanicals (about $80 with rotors) or Shimano hydraulics (about $70 without rotors plus a $10 set of rotors). If you ask around your local bike riding group, you could probably find someone elses takeoff brakes pretty cheap.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here is a really good deal on new brakes. This even includes a 180mm rotor...

Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake 180mm '11 > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > MTB Disc Brakes | Jenson USA


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

blown240 said:


> Here is a really good deal on new brakes. This even includes a 180mm rotor...


[FYI I cannot post links yet]

Will those bolt right on w/ the 180MM rotor?

If those are for the front can you post a link for the rears?

Thanks for your help, I'm new to the dolomite but the hills I climb I eventually have to come down and the stock brakes are not cutting it. I plan on using some old shimano lx levers from a v-brake setup.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Front and rear should be the same. There is another that I saw that comes with a 200mm rotor for the same price. The rotors will bolt onto the stock hubs assuming you can get the stock rotor off.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

Seems like they have very little in stock for delivery.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I picked up a pair of BB7s with the rotors and all the hardware for 69.99 last month.

Looks like they went up a bit, but this is the same outfit that I bought from:

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Br...F8&qid=1426178412&sr=1-16&keywords=bb7+brakes


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

Those are still 160mm rotors, don't you need 180 or 200mm for this tank?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

you don't necessarily NEED bigger rotors, but they are better. I have 203mm on all my bikes.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

double post


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

blown240 said:


> you don't necessarily NEED bigger rotors, but they are better. I have 203mm on all my bikes.


If I'm going to get new brakes I'll at least try to get as good as I can for around $100. Right now the brakes are scary coming down these hills. They seem to need to warm up then suddenly they grab.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

BB7 with 200mm rotors are your best bet. They stop HARD. Ive almost pitched myself over the bars using 2 fingers.

Thats whats on this bike:


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

always wondered what happened to your beast. Looking good.

The bb7 with 160 rotors will work, and they will stop the dolo. Will 180mm work better? yes. Just like 500 horsepower is better than 400 horsepower. but no matter what, it's better than a 103 horsepower kia. Once set up, the upgrade in brake calipers is 100% worth it. I run 160mm on my bike for trail use, and haven't had any problems. You can also buy 180 rotors separatley for about $10-15 if you decide to upgrade later on.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Watts makes a good point. Just remember if you upgrade to larger rotors later, you also have to get the right caliper mounts. Those can be $10-15 a piece too. So if your eventually going to go bigger, may as well do it now.


Thanks for the compliment Watts. That bike is going to get stripped down soon though, because I am making my Intense a fat bike....


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Hey fellas, I'm late to the game, but I just ordered my first fat bike and at $212 I couldn't resist this bike. I have a lake just north of my house and it is all gravel roads to get there, so I wanted a bike I could navigate down the gravel roads, plus look cool.
Is there a list of recommended upgrades captured somewhere or are you gonna make me read all 62 pages of this forum? 

Appreciate any feedback you can give a newbie, thanks in advance!


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

tman52748 said:


> Hey fellas, I'm late to the game, but I just ordered my first fat bike and at $212 I couldn't resist this bike. I have a lake just north of my house and it is all gravel roads to get there, so I wanted a bike I could navigate down the gravel roads, plus look cool.
> Is there a list of recommended upgrades captured somewhere or are you gonna make me read all 62 pages of this forum?
> 
> Appreciate any feedback you can give a newbie, thanks in advance!


Yup, You gonna have to read though all 62 pages like the rest of us. No just kidding. LOL
There's a Facebook out there on Mongoose Fat Bikes. Also there's a guy that goes by the name of FatAlbert333 that started his own chat forum about a year ago, doesn't have very many member tho. By the way, Welcome to the forum.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I think most of it's listed out in the first post by the way of links or just putting it out there. 

At a minimum:
1. Get a metric alen key set, a wrench, and some bike spanner wrenches. take apart the bottom bracket and wheel axles, clean them up, grease them, and properly put them together. My bike had metal shavings all over, no grease, and all the bearings were over tightened. Doing this to the headset is a good idea too, but you may have some difficulty getting the bearings out.
2. Adjust the brakes. look up "align disc bike brakes" on youtube. should give you everything you need to know.
3. ride it till you want to upgrade stuff, then ask about what to upgrade. People have upgraded pretty much everything, just different ways of doing it.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

I ordered one set of the Avid BB7 200mm b/c they only had 1 available for shipping. I might backorder one more in a couple of days or try this one out on the front first.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

mulepic said:


> Those are still 160mm rotors, don't you need 180 or 200mm for this tank?


You are correct and I apologize. I just wanted to share that because a poster had shown a single brake for $60 or so. I think with BB7s there are better deals than that.

Good catch, and good luck with your bike!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

New owner here. Bought the Dolo from Wally World Sunday night, free shipping, delivered to my door Tuesday. I have read all 63 pages, some posts several times as should every rookie. So far I replaced the pedals with MKS Stream's, WTB V saddle and installed a bottle cage, all free take offs.

First impression is astonished. It rides great. The front wheel is unbelievably true and spun freely. The brakes will take some getting used to, coming from calipers but are entirely acceptable. Bad: Scratched paint on the tube and missing the retaining washers for the front tire mount as indicated in the directions, unless these are not included on purpose. 
Thinking about putting on an Acera Derailleur.
The reason I bought this is because it is heavy, I live on a pool table and need a workout. Riding a road bike here is a joke, I have to go 10 miles before I break a sweat.
I want to get slicker tires, these knobs just don't work on pavement. Suggestions are welcome.

Weight: 49 pds. even.


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Can't find YTS bearings in stock anywhere, any thoughts?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tman52748 said:


> ... Is there a list of recommended upgrades captured somewhere or are you gonna make me read all 62 pages of this forum?


First post.



mulepic said:


> ... Right now the brakes are scary coming down these hills. ...


Which is why you'll like the BB7s. Opens the door to a selection of pads too. Do search the web on how to set BB7s up optimally. You'll want better levers too. You don't need the speed-dial levers, but I got a set just because. Just make sure the BB7s and levers are MTN.



AZINGER said:


> ...I want to get slicker tires, these knobs just don't work on pavement. Suggestions are welcome....


Just about any tire is an upgrade from the stock tires. Roll much easier. Lighter too. On-one floaters are a popular all round tire.Go browse the first post.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

p.s.
This thread is over a year old now...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

tman52748 said:


> Can't find YTS bearings in stock anywhere, any thoughts?


should be this one

YST Professional European Unsealed Bearing Chrome Bicycle Bottom Bracket | eBay


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

AZINGER said:


> New owner here. Bought the Dolo from Wally World Sunday night, free shipping, delivered to my door Tuesday. I have read all 63 pages, some posts several times as should every rookie. So far I replaced the pedals with MKS Stream's, WTB V saddle and installed a bottle cage, all free take offs.
> 
> First impression is astonished. It rides great. The front wheel is unbelievably true and spun freely. The brakes will take some getting used to, coming from calipers but are entirely acceptable. Bad: Scratched paint on the tube and missing the retaining washers for the front tire mount as indicated in the directions, unless these are not included on purpose.
> Thinking about putting on an Acera Derailleur.
> ...


If you want to keep the bike heavy for the workout aspect, look to trade someone for a set of the first edition tires. I'm guessing that you have the more aggressive knobby looking tires that came later, but the first Dolos came with a tires that had the tread pattern of a basketball.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I took off the head set and found the bearings with minimal grease, but it didn't look like lithium grease which is what they specify, it looks more like used motor oil. I cleaned out the metal shavings deposited from the tube cut off operation and applied moly grease. Nice.

The Dolomite met it's match today. I took it out to a mud hole, got around Ok in first gear in 4" of water with surface mud. Then got bogged down in a deeper mud hole, she couldn't get out. So the knobby tires do come in handy and they're spaced out far enough to shed mud clods. Ran though some water and cleaned them off. 
The bike rolls like it's on glass.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I would happily trade my old tires for new tires, if you lived around kansas city.


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## frisco_byke (Mar 14, 2015)

well.. I've been eyeing this thread for some time now..

$212 shipped prime on Amazon.. I was on the fence till I saw only 3 in stock left..
I hurried to get my order in, applied my $100 Amazon gift card that I've been saving for something just like this. By the time I got to the confirm order screen, only 1 was left.

Confirmed the order, snatched the last one, refreshed the Amazon listing and it's now selling for $275. Hey, its better than it being out of stock right? Although now you're probably better off getting it at Walmart.

Can't wait for it to arrive! Now I gotta start looking into those recommends..


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

frisco_byke said:


> well.. I've been eyeing this thread for some time now..
> 
> Confirmed the order, snatched the last one, refreshed the Amazon listing and it's now selling for $275. Hey, its better than it being out of stock right? Although now you're probably better off getting it at Walmart.
> 
> Can't wait for it to arrive! Now I gotta start looking into those recommends..


It's still 212 but once an item is viewed and then re-viewed Amazon re-directs to a more expensive deal. I experienced this with an item that I looked at for 35, the next thing I know it's 55. Then I dug a little deeper and found it for 35. Rip off.


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## frisco_byke (Mar 14, 2015)

AZINGER said:


> It's still 212 but once an item is viewed and then re-viewed Amazon re-directs to a more expensive deal. I experienced this with an item that I looked at for 35, the next thing I know it's 55. Then I dug a little deeper and found it for 35. Rip off.


You sure about that? Even on my cellphone its showing 278
http://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Mens-Dolomite-Boys-Cruiser/dp/B00J7J40TM

I definitely believe it though.. the business world knows no bounds.


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## frisco_byke (Mar 14, 2015)

Oh I see.. the "other sellers" section does still list the $212 prime deal, but will ship 'within 27-40 business days' 

Guess that's why its not the default listing anymore


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

frisco_byke said:


> Oh I see.. the "other sellers" section does still list the $212 prime deal, but will ship 'within 27-40 business days'
> 
> Guess that's why its not the default listing anymore


Amazon earliest shipping the Dolo is April 20th
Walmart in stock, four days normal shipping, I got mine overnight for free.
Walmart has a ton of these ready for spring time.


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Got my new Dolo delivered on Saturday. Got the crank apart and cleaned/greased. I greased the front wheel bearings and one side of the back wheel. Wasn't sure how to get the sprocket Assy off the wheel to grease the other side and I still have to figure out how to tear apart the headset.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

tman52748 said:


> Got my new Dolo delivered on Saturday. Got the crank apart and cleaned/greased. I greased the front wheel bearings and one side of the back wheel. Wasn't sure how to get the sprocket Assy off the wheel to grease the other side and I still have to figure out how to tear apart the headset.


There's plenty videos on YouTube that shows how to take the headset apart, very easy. The sprocket Assy is called a cassette or freewheel now. I'm not sure which one you would have. I'm almost sure it would be a freewheel. YouTube videos there as well.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> There's plenty videos on YouTube ...


Please take care in getting your how-tos from youtube videos. A number of people have trashed parts of their bikes (and other things) by following what appears to be a good video. 
If you look at the very first post, very early on in it are links to the Parks Tools web site. I'd strongly suggest that and sheldonbrown.com as places to start.


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Got the headset apart and greased, now I just need a purchase a tool to remove the rear cassette/freewheel and start upgrading the seat, brakes and pedals. 

I did get a chance to put a few miles on it last night, and I'm pretty happy with the bike thus far.


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

Mongoose Dolomites does have freewheels. Freewheels are built with it's own ratcheting system, they come pre-lubed. Just ride it.


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## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

AZINGER said:


> New owner here. Bought the Dolo from Wally World Sunday night, free shipping, delivered to my door Tuesday. I have read all 63 pages, some posts several times as should every rookie. So far I replaced the pedals with MKS Stream's, WTB V saddle and installed a bottle cage, all free take offs.
> 
> First impression is astonished. It rides great. The front wheel is unbelievably true and spun freely. The brakes will take some getting used to, coming from calipers but are entirely acceptable. Bad: Scratched paint on the tube and missing the retaining washers for the front tire mount as indicated in the directions, unless these are not included on purpose.
> Thinking about putting on an Acera Derailleur.
> ...


If you want slicker tires, I recommend Surly Black Floyds or a cheap set of TommiSea tires 
https://www.fatbeachbikes.com/index.php/our-bikes/tommisea-fat-sand-bikes

I have a set and they ride quick and do better off road than the Black Floyds, a bit cheaper too. Check eBay for the best deals
Cheers


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MTB29erCurt said:


> Mongoose Dolomites does have freewheels. Freewheels are built with it's own ratcheting system, they come pre-lubed. Just ride it.


I believe he wants the freewheel off the hub so he can lube the drive-side bearings & cone. If it's not dry nor contaminated, and you're not a clyde, it's not too bad to ride it first, but some have been dry and riding them like that can seriously lower their life and some have been trashed from that.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

I put the avid 200mm brakes on the front. It stops much better, I can actually do an endo quite easily now. My only complaint is that they squeal very loudly. Any ideas if that goes away or do I need to clean the disc/pads w/ something?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ... Do search the web on how to set BB7s up optimally...


You can wipe with alcohol and hope. Or, there are some specific recommendations on setting these up optimally. Squealing is common complaint. Often, but not always, addressable. 
start here
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Avid® Mechanical Disc Adjustment
and
Two Wheel Blogs


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Canoe said:


> I believe he wants the freewheel off the hub so he can lube the drive-side bearings & cone. If it's not dry nor contaminated, and you're not a clyde, it's not too bad to ride it first, but some have been dry and riding them like that can seriously lower their life and some have been trashed from that.


Bingo! That's exactly what I want to do. I'm ordering the tools today


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## MTB29erCurt (Feb 4, 2007)

tman52748 said:


> Bingo! That's exactly what I want to do. I'm ordering the tools today


Your local bike shop should have them.


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)




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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

bikerbettie said:


> My LBS had a tool I needed to purchase, they wanted $ 12 for it. I got the same exact tool off ebay, shipped to my door for $3 . The 400% markup game gets a bit old .


They most likly saw your e-bike and decided you get the e-bike rate.


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## togril (Mar 21, 2015)

G'day.

I am about 6"4' of your Fine American Inches, which is to say 193 cm.

Would I fit on the dolomite comfortably? 
Or would I look like a clown?
Well, even MORE like a clown.
I am quite happy to fit bars with raise etc.

It's just that I am poor at the time being, and bikes are very expensive in Australia.
I figured I might not break this one. and need to get fit and have phun.

Anyway, what do you think? 

T


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dolomites have turned up down there (and in at least one post in this thread), but I forget the brand they're under. 

Hopefully someone who is your size will post with what they did. In the meantime, for some thoughts on adjusting one's fit to a bike, do look at the last link in the very first post of this thread.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

togril said:


> G'day.
> 
> I am about 6"4' of your Fine American Inches, which is to say 193 cm.
> 
> ...


6'4" and you'll look really silly. I've had a couple of my tall friends try it and the first issue is the seat post is way too short. Then when they were on it, it looked very undersized.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

I took the dolomite out for a hill climb and the freewheel seized. So if I stop peddling the cog pushes the chain off of the chain ring. Any suggestions how/what I replace this with? I can get the cog off but I don't think I have the tool to get the freewheel off, so any info on that would be great too.


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## eagle-co94 (Oct 20, 2014)

So my Dolomite adventures are coming to an end. After having the chain skip on me twice while in Key West, the brakes squeeling worse than anything I've ever ridden or DRIVEN and the fact that the brakes seem barely able to stop the bike I activated my warranty and they told me to keep the bike. I got another from another retailer and the box was destroyed in shipping so they sent another to replace that one. Something is bent up front and I had to release all cable tension to get the front wheel in the frame. I think I'll take the bike to a bike shop to have it checked out but for now I think I'll just dump it on Craigslist as that retailer refunded my money on the 2nd bike and told me to keep it. I also couldn't stand grip shifters. I've never liked them and have tried several times but still couldn't get used to them.

Needless to say I've got 2 Dolomites I'm not riding and I'm about to place an order from BikesDirect for probably a Gravity Bullseye Monster.


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## togril (Mar 21, 2015)

mulepic said:


> 6'4" and you'll look really silly. I've had a couple of my tall friends try it and the first issue is the seat post is way too short. Then when they were on it, it looked very undersized.


Gday Mulepic
Thans for that.
I found a post with the measurements.
It's a shame it's so small.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

mulepic said:


> ... the freewheel seized. ... I don't think I have the tool to get the freewheel off, so any info on that would be great too.


If you got one under warranty, it would just be the same cheap freewheel. See the first post under Recommended Upgrades for freewheel info. Tons of posts throughout the thread.

With the Shimano type Freewheel Remover tool/socket, you can get the freewheel off of the hub. Some use a wrench on the tool, but the easy way is to hold the tool in a vice then turn the rim (tons of leverage with tons of control). Putting it on: thread it on by hand (no stripping), then ride it to set it.


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## 06bigruckus (Dec 1, 2014)

eagle-co94 said.........So my Dolomite adventures are coming to an end. After having the chain skip on me twice while in Key West, the brakes squeeling worse than anything I've ever ridden or DRIVEN and the fact that the brakes seem barely able to stop the bike I activated my warranty and they told me to keep the bike. I got another from another retailer and the box was destroyed in shipping so they sent another to replace that one. Something is bent up front and I had to release all cable tension to get the front wheel in the frame. I think I'll take the bike to a bike shop to have it checked out but for now I think I'll just dump it on Craigslist as that retailer refunded my money on the 2nd bike and told me to keep it. I also couldn't stand grip shifters. I've never liked them and have tried several times but still couldn't get used to them.

Needless to say I've got 2 Dolomites I'm not riding and I'm about to place an order from BikesDirect for pro

Bigruckus...

You know that the rims are narrow on the bike....3.5 tire are the largest you can get...the rims are 50mm..the Dolomite has 100mm...just thought I would let you
know...the bike does look great for the $499.00 price..


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

06bigruckus said:


> You know that the rims are narrow on the bike....3.5 tire are the largest you can get...the rims are 50mm..the Dolomite has 100mm...just thought I would let you
> know...the bike does look great for the $499.00 price..


Yes, It comes with 50mm rims, but it has clearance for a lot more than a 3.5 (it comes with 4.0's). I run mine with 80mm rims and a 4.6 out front.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

mulepic said:


> 6'4" and you'll look really silly. I've had a couple of my tall friends try it and the first issue is the seat post is way too short. Then when they were on it, it looked very undersized.


I must be one silly SOB. 6'6" 240lbs with a 34" inseam and I just got back from riding it on some rocky singletrack. It's actually got a longer wheelbase than my XL 29er, but the standover is real low. I bought a Chinese aluminum 450mm long seatpost off ebay for about $12. Much longer seatpost than I'd like, but for the cost of the bike, I'll deal with it. With my weight, my biggest problem was the brakes going out over time (currently have an Avid bb5 and bb7 on it) and the bearing adjustments. It seems every time I ride, when I get back, I have to adjust the bearings. I am rather rough on it though.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Watts what bearing are you needing to adjust each time? I 'm out on mine on trails all weekend/every weekend and haven't noticed yet.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The wheel bearings and the bottom bracket bearings. I'm constantly messing with it, and just put on the YST bottom bracket and repacked them and the wheel bearings, so it could be a case of not getting them adjusted just right the last time. Once I go over it again, hopefully I shouldn't need to adjust them for a while. Also went from deore LX 8-speed back to the stock derailure and an acera shifter. Noticable difference in shift quality. 

Time will tell, but I'm already looking at upgrading to the gravity bullseye pro. something about a front suspension fat bike sounds fun. I'm torn by the fact that fat bikes makes riding trails so easy though. Sections that are difficult on my 29er are easily rode on the dolo. Takes away some of the challenge.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888,
When you set the tension in the bearing, are you locking that tension in place tight enough?
I haven't had to touch mine since I set them. But I'm a very soft rider though. Hubs I can possibly see (cheaply made threads), but my YST BB locked really well.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'm not a soft rider. I mash up the hills with all my weight and bounce down the rocks on the other side. The adjustments I need to make at the wheels are going to be 1-2 degree turns. Very small, but noticable. With the bottom bracket, I think the sealed bushing threw me off. It fit tight enough over the axle that it seemed tight when I initially set it up, but it obviously wasn't. I'll take a look. Next time I take it apart to service it I'll probably end up popping the seal out of the hub until I get the tension set.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Canoe said:


> watts888,
> When you set the tension in the bearing, are you locking that tension in place tight enough?
> I haven't had to touch mine since I set them. But I'm a very soft rider though. Hubs I can possibly see (cheaply made threads), but my YST BB locked really well.


Yea I gotta second this i'm at #175, and have ridden all snow single track but non stop for the past 6 months now. The YST kit has not moved a millimeter on me so far, it really locks in with the outer ring and a good taping of a screwdriver with a hammer.

I haven't had much wheel bearing issue either after the initial set up/grease/adjust. My front wheel was making a little noise this weekend but I guess it was due to one of the outer nuts that holds the axle to the fork being overturned by 1/8 turn.

I personally couldn't set the cones too tight on their own. I had to get them tight enough to not let the hub move side to side on the axle, then back off I think about 1/4 turn. By doing this, when we tightened down the fork outer nuts they clamped the cones tightly for a perfect grip. If I had tightened the cones all the way and then attached the wheel to the fork, it would hardly spin freely because the cones were so over torqued down.

Edit: Watts, maybe try some of the blue locktite that's not so permanent on the threads?


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## DeeEight (Jan 13, 2004)

Costco Canada has Ironhorse Dolomites, same paint and parts as the Mongoose ones sold in the USA. I had forgotten that Ironhorse was one of the brand names Dorel got when they bought out Pacific. They also have the Mongoose Pug 20" wheel kids fat bikes.

http://www.costco.ca/Mongoose-Boy’s-PUG-Fat-Tire-Bike-7-speed.product.100153636.html


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

Got my YST bearings and park tools yesterday in the mail. Now I've got some more work to do this week to the Dolo.


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## BIGFAT29 (Jun 23, 2012)

*mongoose vinson*



06bigruckus said:


> eagle-co94 said.........So my Dolomite adventures are coming to an end. After having the chain skip on me twice while in Key West, the brakes squeeling worse than anything I've ever ridden or DRIVEN and the fact that the brakes seem barely able to stop the bike I activated my warranty and they told me to keep the bike. I got another from another retailer and the box was destroyed in shipping so they sent another to replace that one. Something is bent up front and I had to release all cable tension to get the front wheel in the frame. I think I'll take the bike to a bike shop to have it checked out but for now I think I'll just dump it on Craigslist as that retailer refunded my money on the 2nd bike and told me to keep it. I also couldn't stand grip shifters. I've never liked them and have tried several times but still couldn't get used to them.
> 
> Needless to say I've got 2 Dolomites I'm not riding and I'm about to place an order from BikesDirect for pro
> 
> ...


 maybe you should check out the mongoose vinson fat bike. its back in stock on ebay ,the sports authority and ***** sporting goods.it has a lightweight frame 190 spacing in the rear 135 in the front with 100mm wide rims so you can put bigger tires on .it also has good entry level components and can be had for about 500.00 at the sports authority right now. I love mine its been holding up like a 1000 dollar fat bike.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Bearings all adjusted, working great. Bent the heck out of my rear axle though. Not going to bother with a warranty replacement. I'll just bend it again. Anybody replace the rear axle with something stronger, and where did you get it?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I called Pacific about a bent rear axle and they sent me a new wheel. I just asked for the part and they told me they only listed the entire rim/hub/axle as one part number. So if you find out the thread type and pitch that would be cool! Wouldn't be a bad thing to buy a few extra from the hardware store out of a harder metal. FYI, I'm still using the bent one till it craps out. All 600miles I have are on that one.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

There is a rather long post about the axles on Facebook. Doesnt seem that anyone is making a replacement for them. It is a 9.5mm X 26tpi thread (forgot the length). The 26TPI is apparently ONLY used in bicycles and there is no real world use for that thread count. One of the guys in the thread contacted a known axle manufacturer and they told him that they could not help him. 

One option given was to replace the hub with a cassette hub as the freewheel hubs put more pressure on the axle itself which leads to the bending, replace the entire wheel with one that has a cassette hub already laced or have an axle custom cut by a machine shop. I would imagine that would be expensive though since the 26tpi dies are not very common.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ...Bent the heck out of my rear axle though. Not going to bother with a warranty replacement. I'll just bend it again.





Stang951 said:


> ... One option given was to replace the hub with a cassette hub as the freewheel hubs put more pressure on the axle itself which leads to the bending...


If you're prone to bending the axle, you're better off to move all the way to a cassette/freehub, so that the drive-side bearing won't be inboard of the gears giving them leverage on the axle. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-54.html#post11731705









If you're really hard on it, are a clyde or like punching it, considering upgrading the spokes & nipples too.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

This comes into the cost issue. Am I going to spend $250 for a quality 190mm hub, or sell the dolo and get someting more expensive. For now, I'll probably go with a new axle. I just need to find a better axle. Oddly enough, it looks like certain mopeds use a 190mm wide M10 axle. Just need to stop by a moped shop and ask a tech.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

That 190 is long, I figure it has some more bend in it before it breaks.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

when freewheel axles bend, they always bend right at the cone nut under the free wheel. I expect this will cause me premature bearing wear, so I'm definately fixing it before the weekend. It won't break, but since it's bent, it'll mess up brake alignment and shift points too.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I get what you're saying. I see the long thread in the FB group about it right now. I don't know if its you or not but it looks like someone has a request into a bike axle producer to cut them the exact length of the same thread/pitch. Keep an eye on that if you aren't already.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I'm watching it. I like the cassette idea, don't want to spend 2 bills though.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Just got my Beast delivered. I noticed the chain was too tight and the crank catches once per revolution. So off come the cranks and find that the spindle is bent. Crappola. Obviously someone used a cheater bar and wrenched the nut too tight, bending the assembly. 
So I called support and will get a new spindle, crank and sprocket FedEx'd overnight.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Stang951 said:


> There is a rather long post about the axles on Facebook. Doesnt seem that anyone is making a replacement for them. It is a 9.5mm X 26tpi thread (forgot the length). The 26TPI is apparently ONLY used in bicycles and there is no real world use for that thread count. One of the guys in the thread contacted a known axle manufacturer and they told him that they could not help him.
> 
> One option given was to replace the hub with a cassette hub as the freewheel hubs put more pressure on the axle itself which leads to the bending, replace the entire wheel with one that has a cassette hub already laced or have an axle custom cut by a machine shop. I would imagine that would be expensive though since the 26tpi dies are not very common.


Finding a reasonably priced 190mm hub was difficult so I replaced the stock hub with a 170mm Origin8 cassette model mainly because I could do the work myself. That involved cold setting the rear triangle from the stock 190mm spacing to 170mm, and unlacing the old hub and rebuilding the wheel with the new hub. But then all this requires frame tools to straighten the dropouts once you bend the stays, and the skills to lace a wheel. But not many normal bike riders have such skills. And having a LBS mechanic do such work would be cost-prohibitive, provided said mechanic could do the work. So I guess what I'm saying is that if you own a Dolomite and want to make it function like a quality bicycle, you have to know how to do all the work, or you just accept the shortcomings. Or you buy another fat bike at a higher price point and reap the benefits. Ultimately, I found that the Dolomite frame and fork was a good palette on which to expand. It's the junk that was hung on it that sucks and unfortunately that's what dictates peoples' enjoyment.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Couldn't you just space the axle out instead of bending the frame? If I go that route I think that I would just buy the entire wheel assembly since I do not have the skills to relace one.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

Which YST bottom bracket? A couple pages ago someone provide a link to this bottom bracket:
YST Professional European Unsealed Bearing Chrome Bicycle Bottom Bracket | eBay

But it talks about 'european style':

FOR EUROPEAN STYLE BOTTOM BRACKET SHELLS 
ENGLISH THREADS 
COMES WITH (2) CUPS--(2) CAGED BEARINGS--(1) LOCKRING 
THREADS:1.37 X 24 
CAGED BEARINGS

Is this the right item?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

mulepic said:


> Is this the right item?


Same: Look at the reviews - I have one on order. 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0ETE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I installed the new parts sent in from Pac Bike, cranks, sprocket, chain and axle. Now I see that some of the bearings are flat, so the YST is on the way. When I started working on the bottom bracket I noticed burrs and loose bits of steel from the tube cutoff operation inside. I took a semi-round file and smoothed all the edges and cleaned it out, then smeared lithium, water proof grease (bearing grease) inside so that it won't rust. 

I'll be calling Pac Bike Monday to get a replacement rear rim / tire. Some spokes are loose, the tire wobbles and bounces. Hopefully, I'll end up with a decent bike. Meanwhile I don't mind working on it and reconditioning it as I go.


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## Magnuts (Mar 24, 2013)

Not much Dolomite left in this one!

Started out with an Ironhorse Dolomite
Origin 8 80 mm wheels
Surly Larry tires
Surly light tubes
SRAM X0 shifter
SRAM X9 rear deraillier 
Specialized saddle
Alum seat post, stem, bars
Tektro front brake and rotors 
Vuelta cranks
Axiom platform pedals
ODI lock on grips
Still need to get a rear brake

Most of the parts came from mine and buddy's parts bins. I'm still under $1000 altogether, including the original purchase. Just went for a ride and it was a blast!




























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

I just got a Dolomite a few days ago from wally world for $212 - free shipping.
I ordered some maxxis mammoth 120 TPI tires that will be coming in a few days.
I brought it in to the LBS near me today and had a Sunrace 14- 34T freewheel installed and a shimano shifter installed.
I had planned on installing the freewheel myself but they only charged $5 and the tool was $12 so I let them. They ended up charging me $12 to install the shifter but time is money and I got a few things done while they had it. The price on the equipment was as good or better than what I found on the internet so that was a pleasant surprise. I was prepared to be treated like a big dummy throwing good money at bad money but these guys were real cool. 
I was tempted to air up the tires and take it out for a while but ended up removing the tires in preperation for the mammoths. I cant wait to get it all put together, I'll post pics when I do.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

Has anyone found a good mount for a cell phone? I have a galaxy note 4 and its huge so I dont know if I can trust what I'm seeing on amazon.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I use a trident kraken case and the respective bike mount for my galaxy s5. A little smaller than what yiu have but it works well none the less

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

studdboyz75 said:


> >...I ordered some maxxis mammoth 120 TPI tires...
> >The price on the equipment was as good or better than what I found on the internet so that was a pleasant surprise.
> >I was prepared to be treated like a big dummy throwing good money at bad money but these guys were real cool.
> >I was tempted to air up the tires and take it out for a while but ended up removing the tires in preperation for the mammoths...


>Once they're on, do let us know how those tires fit, and their specs.

>Me too! I've found astoundingly good prices at a local LBS that also does fat. Others around town, have a corporate feel, not a LBS feel.

>The good LBS can tell when someone is enthused about bikes. They also understand that you may not have much money to spend on a bike - yet. The problem with a good LBS can come when a customer who doesn't know insists upon something being done a certain (wrong) way, or when the bike or a part on it is a lemon, but a customer can't understand this. We've had a few solid examples of this in this thread.

My LBS puts out the $1K to $6K builds, but they also look after the little guys, providing deals, advice and proper installation/adjustment. One challenged guy I know was saving his money for a new hub after a LBS told him his was bad after he had his bike in for a new chain only the rear wheel wobbled afterwards. He happened to stop at the good LBS to chat, and they tightened the loosened cones for him...

>While you're not riding it you're not trashing the bearings on the hub or bottom bracket; some come from the factory inadequately greased, some even dry, and some with contaminants (dirt, metal flake). Take this time to grease them BEFORE you ride. Some people only top up their grease, others need to clean them out first, others feel that the only way to know they're good is to clean them out and re-grease. That freewheel may need to come off to allow properly greasing, but even if it's $5 off and $5 on, or you buy the tool, it's money very well spent. Much cheaper than a new hub and building a wheel.


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## captain voltaveus (Jan 9, 2015)

I've got my Dolo trike completed now, along with a non standard head light and "tail" light. It started out as a Dolo, and along the way aquired a trike kit which was modified, a used frame with disc brake mounts, two new ebay rims laced with trike hubs, a basket from HD, and a flame thrower. Yup I said it.

















Here is a short video of the pilot light system setup:


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Hey folks. I'm at work at the moment, after some searching I still cant find the answer to this question. Does anyone know which derailleur hanger the Dolo uses? No bike next to me to look at !


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The dolo's derailure hanger is part of the frame. No replacement. If you mess up the hanger, you bend it back. You mess it up bad, single speed.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks for the info Watts! I had no clue it was an integrated piece with the frame. I think/hope mine is still in good shape. But after all the miles this winter on that bike and how hard I've been on it, I might have bent it at the vary least. 

I flipped the bike so many times this winter, especially this weekend going from a strong crust, then falling into a 3 foot deep pile of soft stuff that I think I finally damaged my derailleur beyond repair. But I was excited to try a rapid fire 8 speed system, so this should be fun. 

New parts are on the way.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Stang951 said:


> Couldn't you just space the axle out instead of bending the frame? If I go that route I think that I would just buy the entire wheel assembly since I do not have the skills to relace one.


You certainly can space out the axle, but I went with what I know and can do with the tools that I have. I like messing with steel frames because I can. Hell, I thought about getting another Dolo just to cut the frame apart to create a lugged version. Now that would be cool!


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Bought two of these for $40, including shipping, on ebay. It's the Acerbis NOST front fender and you might be able to find them in Honda red. I got the idea from back in the day when I rode YZs and RMs. It'll take some cutting and smoothing and some hardware store brackets to make them work, but I promise to post photos when I'm done. Hopefully this week. You can also still find Acerbis trials fenders online that are shaped more like a mountain bike fender, i.e. round. I went with the more aggressive angular look. I'm sure you can even make some motard units work even better than the NOST's (please, someone try it).


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Watts, you sure that hanger doesn't come off the frame. I just got home to check it out and it looks like derailleur hanger attaches to a tab underneath the dropouts. Is that not a common size (only made for this frame)?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

unless mongoose changed the frame and I haven't heard of it (which is possible) or your talking about one of the other mongoose fatbikes (not the dolomite), it's part of the frame.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

Canoe said:


> >Once they're on, do let us know how those tires fit, and their specs.
> 
> >Me too! I've found astoundingly good prices at a local LBS that also does fat. Others around town, have a corporate feel, not a LBS feel.
> 
> ...


Here is a pic of the bottom bearing. I wiped it down with a paper towel before shot. very little to no grease in either side.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

The Maxxis Mammoth tires showed up today.
They came in these small bags that can be reused.
I used Bontrager inner tubes sized 26"x3.5"-4".
The tubes were way lighter and seemed smaller than the stock tubes.
I was concerned that they wouldn't plump up enough to seat the tire but they worked out fine.
I first installed the front tire but had to remove it after realizing I had it mounted backwards.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

I cant seem to get the brakes adjusted properly.
I finally got them to where they are not rubbing at all times but now I cant stop.
Anyone have any advice?
The manual was pretty useless.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

"Anyone have any advice?
The manual was pretty useless. "

I found that the trick is the tire has to be remounted in the exact same position as it came from the factory, which is hard to do if the position wasn't noted. But before you get too involved in the adjustment it may be better to take it to your LBS, I doubt they would charge much.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

studdboyz75 said:


> Here is a pic of the bottom bearing. I wiped it down with a paper towel before shot. very little to no grease in either side.


Don't tell me you used a Channellock on the spanner nut.









You used a spanner wrench, right?


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

studdboyz75 said:


> The Maxxis Mammoth tires showed up today.
> They came in these small bags that can be reused.
> I used Bontrager inner tubes sized 26"x3.5"-4".
> The tubes were way lighter and seemed smaller than the stock tubes.
> ...


You didn't happen to weigh the tube and tire before putting in on did you? I weighed the stock tire and it's just over 5lbs and the tube is 2.5lbs if I remember. The wheel is just under 5lbs. So the whole rear wheel is like >12lbs w/o the axle or gears on.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Here's a view of the rear fender sliced in two and attached with a mending bracket from Aubuchon Hardware. I used 3/8 screws, fender washers and nylon nuts to attach the fenders to the brackets. I have to tap holes in the rear dropouts for the stay mounts.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

studdboyz75 said:


> I cant seem to get the brakes adjusted properly.
> I finally got them to where they are not rubbing at all times but now I cant stop.
> Anyone have any advice?
> The manual was pretty useless.


Make sure the tire is mounted properly in the dropouts first. Then look down the edge of the disc rotor itself to see if it is lined up straight relative to the caliper and pads. If you're lucky enough to have old-fashioned feeler gauges (used to gap spark plugs back when people actually did that), slide them into the gaps on ether side of the rotor to measure them. Otherwise looking can give you a good idea if they're close to even. If they're canted, try using small washers between the mounting adapter and the frame in order to make the entire caliper centered over the rotor. You may also try loosening the caliper, squeezing the brake lever until the pads grip the rotor, then carefully tighten the caliper mounting bolts until they stay in place. Tighten them a little more after you release the lever. Then adjust the brake cable tension until the pads work properly without rubbing.


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## fatbiggitybike (Feb 15, 2015)

Two more views of the Acerbis fender project. Almost done ...


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

I had a flat rear tire (manufacturing metal sliver in the tire finally popped the tube) and when re-mounting the wheel, had trouble getting the disc and pads to play nice. 

I made sure the wheel was fully seated and just loosened the brake body and re-aligned with the disc. Worked fine. Not sure why it wouldn't seat properly as before but maybe not perfectly aligned before.......


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

bottom bracket experimentation time.
Bought the 164mm width VP bottom bracket. Should get it in next week. I'll let you know how it measures up. If it's a close fit, I'll put it on the dolo. If it's not, I'll let you know too. I really wish they had a 175mm one. I know that would work.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM1OWOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

mulepic said:


> You didn't happen to weigh the tube and tire before putting in on did you? I weighed the stock tire and it's just over 5lbs and the tube is 2.5lbs if I remember. The wheel is just under 5lbs. So the whole rear wheel is like >12lbs w/o the axle or gears on.


I wanted to but I don't have a scale for reading that small.


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## mulepic (Mar 10, 2015)

studdboyz75 said:


> I wanted to but I don't have a scale for reading that small.


I just read a review of them and they are 1290g or about 2.8lbs so 2lbs lighter than stock. This review also talks about using them as tubeless: Maxxis Mammoth ? Tested & Reviewed | FAT-BIKE.COM

which reduce a significant amount of weight. I might have to try that out.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

watts888 - that looks real interesting. Are you running the stock crankset?

I'm looking to reduce the Q but am running a mtb crankset. I've got more clearance than needed when in the granny ring and first gear.......with stock spindle at 189 and switching to 164 would be 12.5 reduction each side (that is, if the spindle is symmetrical....)

Definitely looking forward to hear how it works.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I measured it all out, and 165mm should give about 2-3mm crankarm clearance. Just not sure if it's even on both sides, and need to identify crankarms that start with wider Q value or normally require shorter bottom bracket axles. If it clears the chainstays, the outermost 104 chainring position should line up where the original chainring did.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

AZINGER said:


> "Anyone have any advice?
> The manual was pretty useless. "
> 
> I found that the trick is the tire has to be remounted in the exact same position as it came from the factory, which is hard to do if the position wasn't noted. But before you get too involved in the adjustment it may be better to take it to your LBS, I doubt they would charge much.


I took it in to my LBS and one thing the service tech noticed is that the washers on the wheels were on the inside of the forks. I installed it that way because the nut that holds the wheel on has an attatched washer. I didnt think I needed to double up the washers - I was wrong. By having the washers on the wrong side, there was not enough adjustment in the brake to get it centered. The rear disk was also bent a little so he straightened it out. $10 later and the brakes are fine.


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## studdboyz75 (Mar 26, 2015)

AZINGER said:


> Don't tell me you used a Channellock on the spanner nut.
> 
> View attachment 977289
> 
> ...


Yes I did use channel locks to loosen it.
I didnt have a puller to get the crank off so I ended up going to my LBS for some assistance. They didnt have any spanner wrenches in stock so I had them finish the job for me. 
I see now that I will need to update the ol tool box....


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## Millera1 (Nov 9, 2014)

Do or how long does it take for the brakes to stop making that terrible squealing noise do the pads have to break /wear in is there a good or fast way to do it thanks


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Millera1 said:


> Do or how long does it take for the brakes to stop making that terrible squealing noise do the pads have to break /wear in is there a good or fast way to do it thanks


Clean the rotors and pads with alcohol. Don't touch their contact surfaces with your fingers after that. If that doesn't work, you're going to have to visit the list:
The wheel axles have to be seated properly (so they're in the same place each time).
The rotors have to be true (flat).
You should be able to spin the wheel and see the rotor without any wobble.
If the rotors are flat but you have wobble, check if your hub bearings have play. If so, check the Park Tools web site for instructions on adjusting their tension. 
To remove play in the brake cable, the cable housings should have been cut so they are properly square. If the factory didn't, you'll need to grind or file the end of the housings to get them square and smooth. 
Then the brakes have to be properly adjusted... including properly set to the frame in alignment on the rotor. 
The above usually works, but not always.


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

I ride the bike in the sand and it would be great If I could get a lower gear set. I rode a Surly moolander and while the bike was great the real difference was the gearing.

Can anyone suggest a change that I could put on my dolo?

tnx


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I would try a 22/32/42 with the 42 taken off up front and a 13-34 out back.


















Rode my wifes bike with the 22 up front and 34t in the back and it makes the dolomite feel 10 pounds lighter than mine with 22 up front and the stock 28t in the back. I'll be switching my rear out this weekend for that set up.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Or leave the 42 in place as a bash-ring, or grind its teeth off if you need something to do or expect to actually use it as a bash-ring. 
(Check the first post of the thread for popular upgrades.)


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Good point about the bash guard. 

BTW did we buy out the whole stock of BB7's from amazon? I went to order another set for a different bike and that $70 deal is long gone. Looks like its going to cost well over $150 for them now. Anyone else know of a deal as good as ebay without having to wait for Hong Kong shipping?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

momikey said:


> Good point about the bash guard.
> 
> BTW did we buy out the whole stock of BB7's from amazon? I went to order another set for a different bike and that $70 deal is long gone. Looks like its going to cost well over $150 for them now. Anyone else know of a deal as good as ebay without having to wait for Hong Kong shipping?


Inventory: 17 for sale On Amazon...


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

I don't see a set of BB7's for $70 anywhere on amazon. Now they are $71 each.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tman52748 said:


> I don't see a set of BB7's for $70 anywhere on amazon. Now they are $71 each.


man, what a rip off. jacking up the price again.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Exactly, looks like ebay is the route to go, gotta wait 30 days for delivery.


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

*Changing gears*

Thanks guys however I am a novice to this. While I can easily make the changes mechanically, however I am completely new to bikes.

if someone can tell me what to buy crank set, shifter, cassette and special tools I could figure the rest out. Or if there is a part store to call that could tell me that would be fine.

seems like if I switch the crank for two sets of gears I could get what I need is that right?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea, switch to a crank with 2 up front gears that are both lower than the stock 36t. 
Switch manually

Start at the first page and dig in, Canoe has a lot of good info posted with links about what parks work and what don't.

I post later this week with high res pics of my 8 speed setup I did last night.


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks, the first page being page 1 of this thread?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yes sir, he put all links in blue to guide people through diss-assembly/greasing/adjusting/upgrades. In the posts the links take you to, you should see other links to tools needed and DIY general bike videos to guide you through installs.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Here are BB7 got $54. plus this one has everything you need to upgrade to 180mm rotors!

Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake 180mm '11 > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > MTB Disc Brakes | Jenson USA


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks blown, but I think thats an either front or rear, not both.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

I put after market bearings and sealed bearing cups for the stock crank when I first got the dolo. I've had the adjustable cup loosen up twice. I really torqued on it last after noon. Will see if that holds. I have been hesitant to work it too hard as I didn't want to bugger up the lock ring threads. If this doesn't do it, blue lock tight next.

Question - why are the bottom bracket threads cut such that the rotation of the crank, on either side, wants to loosen the cups?

I'd think they'd cut the threads so the rotation would tend to tighten, like pedals. Is this due to having the bearings go loose is better that going tight to prevent bearing damage?


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## sandbike (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks folks for all the various inputs, canoe thanks for all you have posted, a lot for me to learn, looks like I will be busy learning this weekend.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

CrackerJim said:


> I put after market bearings and sealed bearing cups for the stock crank when I first got the dolo. I've had the adjustable cup loosen up twice. I really torqued on it last after noon. Will see if that holds. I have been hesitant to work it too hard as I didn't want to bugger up the lock ring threads. If this doesn't do it, blue lock tight next.
> 
> Question - why are the bottom bracket threads cut such that the rotation of the crank, on either side, wants to loosen the cups?
> 
> I'd think they'd cut the threads so the rotation would tend to tighten, like pedals. Is this due to having the bearings go loose is better that going tight to prevent bearing damage?


Jim are you hitting that lock ring in with a hammer and flathead screw driver? I installed the cup sets on both dolos we have and neither have moved a mm yet. Did the installs in October/November and lots of trail only miles since.



sandbike said:


> Thanks folks for all the various inputs, canoe thanks for all you have posted, a lot for me to learn, looks like I will be busy learning this weekend.


I'll try to post up the drive train upgrades for you by Friday.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I received a new rim from PacBike and when I roll it on the floor it wobbles at the weld joint. There appears to be a flat spot on the outer rim in the weld area. Anyone else have this problem? I hate to mount it only to see that the tire is not true.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

CrackerJim said:


> I put after market bearings and sealed bearing cups for the stock crank when I first got the dolo. I've had the adjustable cup loosen up twice. I really torqued on it last after noon.


Are they the YST bearings? I'm going to change my stock bearing out this week for the YST's. I can't see how they would work loose unless the YST OD threads are a different pitch.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

for those who changed to a 170mm rear axle, how did you space the frame? the 2x4 method sheldon brown recommends for steel frames? It seems to be the easiest cold forming method, and with a cassette hub, having perfectly aligned dropouts isn't supposed to be as big an issue.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Similar to but not YST. The non adjustable cup has been fine. I'm thinking I haven't tightened the lock down ring enough previously. 

I've got to put more miles on it, but so far, it's holding since the last set up with more torqueing of the lock down ring.

The aftermarket bearings are the way to go on my dolo, makes the bike feel solid and smooth.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Well, after 30 pages, my eyes hurt in this thread. I will continue tomorrow. Here is my story,

My middle son got a new bike for easter (12" thomas and friends), my oldest has a 14" Spider-man bike (they are coming 4 and 6 this summer/month). My oldest asked me to get my bike and ride with them. I explained I didn't have one, and we would have to go buy one. Anyway, we went to canadian tire, and he saw a 20" Tex (black with green rims fatbike, 7 speed). Too big for him. Ill look at buying this year, and putting it away. Just gonna wait for a sale. Anyway, I was going in to buy something $300-500CDN. A basic mountain bike was fine for me. We are riding around the lake (paved path), and block etc. He got really excited when he saw the dolomite. Wanted me to get that bike. So we left the store, and I did a quick google (to see how it was etc). Not much came up, a few threads. But it was $399 at Canadian Tire. Came up $319 at Costco. I realize this isn't a great bike, but I wasn't out to buy a great bike. Its a cheap bike. So I pulled the trigger and ordered it from costco. I am looking to do basic upgrades. Maybe mega range, and some sealed bearings for bottom. Might swap tires. I will never downhill, or tech ride this bike. Its a cruiser.

I considered a "real" fatbike. But my LBS starts at $1500, and they are out of base models (they call them, didn't even go in to see what they had, at that price point). Direct Bikes, even at $500. Take exchange, and visa penalty, Im getting 80 cents on the dollar. So thats $600. Add in shipping, easily $100, so thats $700. Now I have to pay tax onto of that. $735. Then duty/brokerage. No idea what it would be on a bike. But lets say minimum $50. So we are looking around $800 a base bike from bikes direct. Im $335, shipped to my door on a dolomite. I can do a lot of upgrades for $300 and still be well under what I could order from direct bikes. I haven't been able to find a used one for udner $900, and thats pre shipping across the province.

So with that said, Id like to track down a bearing set (can't order from amazon.com, can't find on .ca), can't find any anywhere, unless I order a VP from the UK, for about $80 by time I pay duty.

Id like a granny gear for the kids. To turn around and help them etc. They are on 12/14" bikes. So megarange, might work, or I need to swap to a 2x or 3x crank, derailleur, etc.

Anyone know where I can get a sealed bearing set (YST/VP) for the dolo in canada, for a reasonable price? The rest I should be able to source out through City bike shops, and LBS. Thanks


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Wally just jacked up the price of the Dolomite 18%. Added a new model "Hitch", a Dolomite painted dark red with *drilled alloy rims with color rim insert*.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

N49ATV said:


> Well, after 30 pages, my eyes hurt in this thread. ...


I can relate. But after living through the making of those, from me you'll not be getting much sympathy. 



N49ATV said:


> Came up $319 at Costco. ...


With the exchange rate the way it is, that's a good price for delivery in Canada. To get one in the U.S. and bring it across now would cost me $303.38 CAD.



N49ATV said:


> ... Id like a granny gear for the kids. To turn around and help them etc. They are on 12/14" bikes. So megarange, might work, or I need to swap to a 2x or 3x crank, derailleur, etc...


I'm not sure I'm on the right page yet, but keep in mind that the megarange gives you a bailout/granny, but without a fully useful progression due to the gap to the granny. The stock rear x7 along with a 2x front - easily switched by hand - may do all that's needed. Check out a used one at a bike recycle/co-op-repair place.



N49ATV said:


> ... Anyone know where I can get a sealed bearing set (YST/VP) for the dolo in canada, for a reasonable price? The rest I should be able to source out through City bike shops, and LBS. Thanks


Your Local Bike Store (LBS) should be able to order a YST for you. It's not a sealed cartridge, but it's referred to as sealed as it incorporates a seal around the crank shaft. Easy to install, smooth and low resistance. They're currently $8.50 USD. Last summer, a friend got one shipped from the US to Canada for ~$30 delivered to his door.

If you can't source one, PM me and I'll get an extra for you the next time I'm down in the States (within the next three to four weeks). Should come in anywhere from $12 to $20 CAD (shipping within the US), plus shipping it again in Canada. A Canadian LBS should be able to get it for $12 to $15 CAD (but that was the price before the CAD dollar drop).


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

I bought a cheap mtb crank and threw it on the dolo. The big ring is my bash guard, the middle ring for pavement for the short ride to the preserve area. When I get to the gate at the preserve, I manually switch to the granny ring for chugging around on the trail roads/deer trails......works well and was cheap.

That and the crank replacement bearings are the only mechanical changes I've done.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

I know the YST isn't sealed, that's just what they describe. The reason I want to go with it is to minimize the amount of maintenance. I can promise you the the fist big rain fall, my oldest will want to go for a ride and hit the puddles etc. Dad, your turn, faster dad, and the likes will ensue. So the rubber "seals" on those bearings should help.

I'd like to set this up reasonable. Id like auto switching if possible, as I am seeing many years of riding with the small kids ahead of me. Though I may get a new bike, I doubt it, as I haven't ridden one in 10 years or so. But I have a youngest son who is turning one at the end of this month, and expecting one last child in October. So I'll need a granny gear for a while. It would have been much easier to pick up a base norco, or something similar, but the oldest loved it, and I'm sure the middle boy will too when he sees it.

I got thinking last night, a 2x crank, or 3 that uses only 2 might be best to keep the chain from rubbing/alignment issues. Have to see when it arrives
I'd just like to get the bearings and freewheel here right away. Think I'll try the mega, so I can do t during setup

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Not my idea. I saw it on one of the other posts and it actually looked good. An quick and cheap alternative to the YST cup would be simply putting a garden hose o-ring on the end of the axles by the cup and using a hose clamp/zip tie/tape to hold it against the hub. the stock cups are OK, its mostly the horrible factory assembly (which you really need to take it apart, clean, and regrease it anyway). While your in there, might as well replace the bearings too. Should cost less than $3 at your local bike shop.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I removed the cages from the bearings and added some so that there are only the bearings. Then I greased the hell out of them. That stopped dirt from going in and now the BB is super smooth. I was going to do the hose gasket, but I dont go through enough mud and water to spend the time on it.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Honestly I don't have a ton of faith in my LBS. I called yesterday to see what they have/could bring in for an entry level fat tire, they transferred me to the shop, back to the floor, back to the shop. guy said 7/750, went to check the bikes in front of his counter, girl answered told me 1500, and they are out of those, so I'd have to spend more. Didn't offer to order anything. Said 750 was /20" kids bikes were 750 and they had none. I can't justify that much to ride with kids. If my son wasn't so excited and told me to buy it, i prob wouldn't, but for 335 to my door, and him loving it. Why not. Had it been 800+ for it, I'd tell him sorry, we have to get this one. 

But he also gets to pick my next truck (well colour). He is excited about that too. Asked me why I have white trucks. So hopefully I don't get yellow. I'd guess I'll end up with blue or red.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

What specific tools will I need to order to service the BB, and change the freewheel to a megarange? I saw a video somewhere last night, can't find it now. It looked like it was a 2 prong freewheel (it was late), do I need the Park Tool FR-2? To change the bottom bearings do I need the CCP-22? Anything else? Id like to get my LBS to get the tools ordered in for me. My bike should be here on the 14th, Id like to get my parts here, so I can do it all during setup.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Here's the tool kit I have, in addition to a big cresent wrench and a rubber malet. Only thing it's missing for the dolo is the freewheel tool. It's also good to teach your kids how to fix their own bike, and never to use a screw driver to change a flat tire.
Titan Tool Kit - 21 Tools | Titan
If you can't get this one easily in Canida, I'm sure you can find one that looks very similar on ebay. The thing to look for is the lock ring tool. Much better than trying to use a pipe wrench or a hammer & screwdriver to set the lock ring.

Assuming the free-wheel is a one time swap, buy the freewheel at your local bike shop and ask them to install it (or at least remove the old one). Unless you're putting a ton of torque on it or climbing a lot of hills, the stock one isn't that bad with the stock crankset. The gear range is OK for road, but better if you get the aftermarket Vuelta crankset with a 22T/32T rings.

Picture of a lockring tool.
https://lp1.pinkbike.org/p4pb6285364/p4pb6285364.jpg


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Id assume the megarange will be a one time stop, unless I decide I want more range, and I do a crank set, then ill most likely pull the megarange, and put in a standard freewheel again, I just know I'm gonna need a granny gear no matter what. My middle son is really slow on his 12", and gets stuck on bumps. Hasn't grasped to stand up and hard push with weight.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

those wrenches are ok, but when they slip off, you usually smash your knuckles off something sharp


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Here's the basic set for a Dolo.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Thanks. Aside from the park tools stuff, and the spanner wrench, I'd have everything else. I guess that's the perks of being a one man company. Tools I have. what are the spanner wrench sizes on the top/left in the light blue pack? I can't make out the cone wrench model, and what's the pink thing?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Here you go. I order from Amazon because my LBS adds 25% "overhead". Plus, when I get an incorrect part I get a refund.
I use the single hook side, the triple hook side slips off too easy.

Amazon.com : Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Well, good news and bad news......

Was out in the preserve with my son last evening. The crank bearing cup (adjustable) is holding fine so I must have gotten it torqued correctly.

However, had to walk it out of the woods as the freewheel failed. The bike has just over 120mi on it. No hills here, putting some cranking on it with areas of heavy, dense grass over soft ground but nobody is going to mistake my quads for Arnold's. 

Fortunately, I have the mega range free wheel in the shop (and the tool I'd bought at the lbs). I bought it as I thought I'd need that low gear for the sugar sand around here but those big tires handle that so hadn't put it on. Will being doing that this weekend.

As we were coming out of the woods, we heard this loud cry, very close. Almost eerie :eekster: as it was sunset and the woods was getting quiet. A bald eagle had landed in a dead snag within 50 yards of us and was giving what for to a smaller bird that was harassing it. That was fun. The smaller bird left and the eagle settled in to roost for the night, watching us heading to the house......


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Always a plus side to side to almost everythingSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

N49ATV said:


> Always a plus side to side to almost everything
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Heard that!


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Well, I got off a little early from work to day so I jumped in the shop and changed out the freewheel on the dolo. Much more like it...... I turn the pedals and the bike moves! 

When I coast instead of the loud, almost clack sound, it makes that nice tick-tick-tick......that's $250 of better sound for less than $20. :thumbsup:

An additional benefit, that I wasn't expecting (didn't think of it one way or the other) was that it shifts much better. Particularly, shifting to lower gears - much more positive shift and much faster. That's another $100 dollars worth of feeling like a nicer bike ... man, I'm rollin' in it.

Had I known how much better it would be, I would have changed out that freewheel straight away instead of after walking out of the woods due to it failing. Live and learn.

I'm thinking of some better tires here soon. If that were to make significant improvements to ride quality, like I've heard, nobody will be able to put up with me - struttin' around like I got the boss bike!


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

How is the shift to the 34T? I have ordered a megarange and tools (well waiting for LBS to get back to me on it), my bike doesn't arrive till the 14th. But I plan to just swap it during setup.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Im on the hunt for a full size slick. But its not looking good. Boa-G might be the closest. But doesn't look as full, and thats what my son loved about the bike. Might have to get something with small tread. Or black floyds. I got really excited when I saw pictures of Jube Customs "strEEt" tire, but its 24x4.25


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

Right now it's not shifting to the 34t, 2nd gear to 7th (only using 6 gears). With the terrain I'm in, including the sugar sand, don't need the 34.

However, will adjust the dr this weekend to see how it works and then will probably re-tune to run 2nd -8th.

I'll report back but from what I've read and from looking at the dr in relation to the 34, I don't expect any problems.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

N49ATV said:


> ... I just know I'm gonna need a granny gear no matter what. My middle son is really slow on his 12", and gets stuck on bumps. Hasn't grasped to stand up and hard push with weight.


And that is why you do NOT want "Alpine" gearing (which is what the megarange are). It trades away your lowest gear (28T, one he'd use) for a granny gear (32T or 34T, that he'd also use). Alpine gearing has a gap moving from 24T to 34T. Too much of a gap.
To solve this:
a custom stack of a megarange (see the first post for a link), or 
a freewheel that has the progression ending similar to 24T, 28T, 34T, or
a better solution: ~ 14-28T freewheel and a smaller ring in the front to lower the effective gearing of all of the rear gears. 
The easy/cheap way to do this is a Mtn triple in the front, using either the 22T or the 32T as the rider requires.

With the image below:
The white background examples show you the effective gear inches from using the stock freewheel with the stock front (light blue) and 34T down to 28T (yellow through orange) in the front. 
Next, the blue-grey background shows a 13-28T rear, with the stock 36T front and then at the Mtn triple rings. The specific gears are slightly off the stock Dolo gears, but it illustrates how much lower the gearing goes when you've got a front with 32T and 22T, and how you have choices across the range.
Below that are various megaranges where you can see the issue with a gap from Alpine gearing, and custom stacks that solve that.
One of them may be close to an existing freewheel you may get from another company, so you know what gearing you can expect compared to the stock Dolo.
At the bottom we see a 10 speed cassette, with a 22T front and a 36T front. With all of the choices in the low end, you can see why they are popular, and how choosing a front ring determines where the rear falls in providing the gearing one needs.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... alternative to the YST cup ... the stock cups are OK, ...


But the YST is a world of difference. Smoothness and low resistance.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah I'd like to 3 ring the front eventually. For the most part I'm sure I won't be in the lowest gear, but it will be nice to drop into, to make a very slow turn around etc on the path. I'm gonna try the mega range, and then track down a crank, and make it a weeknight project. When the bike is delivered next week, my son will want to go for a ride right away, and every night for a bit. I generally work 7-7 everyday. So if will buy me a bit of time to track down front parts. I figure I'll have it apart to grease the hubs anyway. I'll see what I get for a mega range. Maybe a custom stack is possible. Being North my options for easy access able parts is low. Better looking at dump/kijiji for bikes to loot.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*New Driveline*

Hey Folks,

Sorry for the delay in posting this stuff. It's been a long fun winter with lots of riding. I know some new people to the forum had some questions about the gearing options for the dolo. Figured I would throw up my latest mods.

Went with the 8 speed sunrace freewheel, and 8 speed rapid fire shifter and derailleur.

parts:

Amazon.com : Shimano SL-M310 Acera Shifter Right (8 Speed) : Bike Shifters And Parts : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Sunrace 8-Speed Freewheel 13-34 : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Shimano RD-M310 Altus GS 7/8-speed Rear Der Black, Long Cage : Rear Bike Derailleurs : Sports & Outdoors

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y5HCNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also made it to some events this winter, saw some cool bikes.




























So back the install, here are the updated pics of my bike before I put it away for summer and break out the F/S.




























The megarange










Really excited for the BB7's to get here, I'm pretty disappointed by these amazon BB5 knock off I purchased a while back.









8 Speed rapid fire. My only issue with this is that its a little hard to get a solid grab on the right hand side of the bar without shifting down a gear or two. I might have to move it a bit.









A little video of the 22T up front 34T in the back and me in my back yard.






Forgot to add front crank shot.

Excuse more dirt and debris


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Can you use all 8 gears with that deraillier? I'm thinking something along the lines of a 2x crank, and a freewheel. But gonna try mega range first. Just to get riding with boys.

How hard was it to strip paint from rims? 


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yup all 8 gears work with this setup. My wife's bike in the background uses the same freewheel with the stock shifter and derailleur and goes from 34T-15T and does not use the 13T "8th" gear. It works well for her. 

Stripping the paint off those wheels was a giant pain in the ass, especially since I had already drilled out the holes. Probably 5 hours on the first wheel before I used the correct stripping product.


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Has anyone been able to put a front derailleur on their dolo? I know we have huge BB 's but my single up front and 8 out back are having chainline issues I can't seem to kick. Is there a FD adapter wide enough to accommodate? Did I somehow miss the post?


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## skamatt23 (Apr 3, 2005)

Also does the low end Specialized Fatboys have a 190 rear hub allowing us to finally run a cassette?


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Guys have put a front derailleur on, with a problem solvers 1325 moon specific spacer. There is issues with rubbing you gotta deal with here and there, depends on release date of bike I have read.

I'd like to do a 2x or 3x (use 2x) on front to keep it all right, and have more range for crawling with kids

Not sure on hubs. I'm new to this, I won't sink that much into this bike. It's a big cruiser for me, that my son fell in love with.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

What did you use for a stripping product, I have a pretty wild idea for my rims, but I have to strip the paint off. Did you use aircraft stripper?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yup, aircraft stripper is the stuff that ended up doing the job. I gotta say, they did a solid job with the wheel pain when the rims were made. Its on there thick.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah, I want to strip it down, seems like that stuff works well.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

skamatt23 said:


> Also does the low end Specialized Fatboys have a 190 rear hub allowing us to finally run a cassette?


A QR type 190mm rear hub is available on the Minnesota 3.0 fatbike. The rear wheel is available for $150.
On Sale Framed Minnesota 3.0 Rear Fat Bike Wheel 190mm


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I think that there was an issue running the Minnesota Fatbike wheel. I looked through the thread real quick but couldn't find the posts related to it (only did a quick check though).


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I think it revolved around the Minnesota 1.0 and 2.0 version of the bikes having 170mm hub spacing. the 3.0 uses the same 190mm hub spacing as the dolo, but there might be other issues such as axle diameter and chain/cassette clearance at the frame. As of yet, I haven't heard of anybody doing this swap, but it should be possible based on the hub width.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

OK. I ordered the one from Ebay (free shipping) to be the guinea pig. Next I'll have to find a cassette for it.....any recommendations? Is there one just like the megarange? I like that freewheel so far. The MN3.0 comes with a 10spd cassette, so will the 7spd fit the same way or will it have to be spaced different on the rim?


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Odd UPS has my shipping weight as 18.2lbs. Bike in store didn't feel 50lbs. This is also an Ironhorse Dolomite, might be a canada thing. But it certainly was heavier than 18. 


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

since you're getting a hub that'll take a cassete, the world has just opened up. You can go 8, 9 or 10 speed. For the price, 8-speed is probably the easiest to go with. You can get a 11-32T cassette for about $20 and use your stock chain/shifter/derailure. Just need to choose if you want to loose one high gear or one low gear (7-speed shifter vs. 8-speed cassette). Then you adjust your derailure's bump stop so it can't go into that gear and setup your shifter. (youtube video time) You could probably find a cheaper 8-speed cassete if you just wait a bit. I bought an 11-32T Sunrace for $8. the first customer review on this cassette describes some of the ones available. I prefer the 11-32 shimano because of the smooth gear counts between gears vs. the insane jump on the mega-range's last gear.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG51-...door-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1428949519&sr=1-1

Don't know what else you've upgraded, but when the time comes to go 9 or 10-speed, you'll need a new cassette, shifter, shift cable, derailure, and chain.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

That hub looks promising. I'll wait to see how you do. Parts aren't as easy to get in the great white north. That's for taking the plunge for ys


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

watts888 said:


> since you're getting a hub that'll take a cassete, the world has just opened up. You can go 8, 9 or 10 speed. For the price, 8-speed is probably the easiest to go with. You can get a 11-32T cassette for about $20 and use your stock chain/shifter/derailure. Just need to choose if you want to loose one high gear or one low gear (7-speed shifter vs. 8-speed cassette). Then you adjust your derailure's bump stop so it can't go into that gear and setup your shifter. (youtube video time) You could probably find a cheaper 8-speed cassete if you just wait a bit. I bought an 11-32T Sunrace for $8. the first customer review on this cassette describes some of the ones available. I prefer the 11-32 shimano because of the smooth gear counts between gears vs. the insane jump on the mega-range's last gear.
> Amazon.com : Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Don't know what else you've upgraded, but when the time comes to go 9 or 10-speed, you'll need a new cassette, shifter, shift cable, derailure, and chain.


Thanks for the information. I am going to wait to order any cassettes until I know for sure that it fits. IF it does and there is no issue, I may convert to an 8 speed. From what I read on Sheldon Brown's site, you have to shim the 7 speed cassette by 4.5mm. Doesn't sound like much as long as I can find the shims. But going 8 speed with a different shifter and cable I may be able to use all 8 speeds like MOMIKEY. That would definitely be nice as there wouldnt be the great divide between the 34 and the 28 that I have now with the megarange.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

momikey said:


> ... A little video of the 22T up front 34T in the back and me in my back yard.


Great way to show 22T driving 34T!
That's around 18 Gear Inches.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

I wish my backyard had hills like that.....all flat in the swamp!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

_I ordered the one from Ebay (free shipping) to be the guinea pig. Next I'll have to find a cassette for it._

Great price on that rim / hub. One good thing about anodized aluminum is that it can be painted easily, no primer needed.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The new Walgoose 24" Logan Fat Bike. Note the drilled out rims, just like the Hitch.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The Kong, a new 20" Fat Bike, also drilled rims.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

I am going to buy my son a 20 this year, for next, just going to watch for a deal.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

The Tex is pretty cool looking for colours








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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I noticed different brake rotors, pedals and frame geometry on these new Walgoose revisions. The Hitch has more clearance from the front tire to the tube and a taller stance at the headset.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Looks like a Surly Endomorph or Minnessota 1.0 knockoff fork. Slightly longer offset and length, but it probably won't take as wide of a tire as the dolo can take. I'd probably go for the Hitch if I was buying one.


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## Alejandro1 (Dec 25, 2014)

I joined the group too, I got it in delivered in perfect shape. I have to admit, the rotor side bearing on the front hub had grease. The other bearings were dry, everything seems to be very inexpensive in China, but apparently grease is very expensive there.
I put an 8 speed freewheel (14-34) and went to ride.
It was fun to ride, sand? Forget about it, you won't notice it.
Steep uphills? Ridiculous traction, it just climbs like a goat.
Brakes? They suck, it almost made me run into trees on steep descents, I have some BB7 calipers on the way after the ride.
Also, several times I stood up and leaned forward to pedal on sudden climbs, and upshifted by inadvertently rolling the grip shifter. SO I put in an older Shimano 8 speed shifter I had and I will get to use all 8 speeds of my new freewheel, the derailleur works fine for 8 speeds, it is a little tricky, I first looked at it and thought it said XT, but under close examination, it is a shimano TX, hmmm.... Texas edition derailleur?
I never put the pedals on, I put an old set of Crank Bros Mallet I had.
I am thinking about replacing the tires if the 120 tpi tires roll so much better as some wrote. I want to read more feedback about them.
Bottom bracket is low, I hit some roots.
But overall, I like the bike, it's like riding a bicycle edition of a Yamaha TW200


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Which 8 speed freewheel did you put on?


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Just ordered a Hitch! I think it will fit me better than a Dolo.

I already have a pile of upgrade parts ready to go. Cranks, Pedals, Hydraulic Disc Brakes, Bars & stem & better Derailleur. Can't wait ... should be a hoot to ride!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> Just ordered a Hitch! I think it will fit me better than a Dolo.
> 
> I already have a pile of upgrade parts ready to go. Cranks, Pedals, Hydraulic Disc Brakes, Bars & stem & better Derailleur. Can't wait ... should be a hoot to ride!


I put my order in this morning. As far as fitment goes, we shall be the guinea pigs.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER said:


> I put my order in this morning. As far as fitment goes, we shall be the guinea pigs.


Yep .. I will be surprised if it is much different than the Dolo ... parts wise


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> Yep .. I will be surprised if it is much different than the Dolo ... parts wise


Interesting, the Hitch is coming from Vacaville via UPS. The Beast and Dolo came from Houston via FedEx. I wonder if the Hitch is being manufactured at a different factory.


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## Alejandro1 (Dec 25, 2014)

N49ATV said:


> Which 8 speed freewheel did you put on?
> 
> sorry, it doesn't have any brand on the box, just has the number of teeth


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

On this bike, any 8-speed freewheel will work. The schimano 14-28 is a solid workhorse that will last, but doesn't have a low gear. The schimano 14-34 megarange gives you that low gear, but it has the stupid huge gear gap. I'll never run a megarange again for trails. Road use, sure. The best gear range on a freewheel I've seen was a sunrace 13-32T 8-speed. It's about as wide as you'll find for a freewheel, but you loose a litle quality with sunrace. I think it's more of a QC issue. Some are great, some aren't. My sunrace cassette on another bike is fine, my sunrace freewheel on the dolo has a squeel when freewheeling under load, even after oiling it with transmission fluid. Either way, they'll last longer than the stock one.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER said:


> Interesting, the Hitch is coming from Vacaville via UPS. The Beast and Dolo came from Houston via FedEx. I wonder if the Hitch is being manufactured at a different factory.


Mine is coming from San Pablo, CA ... UPS


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Anyone able to measure the diameter of the bottom bracket bearings? The LBS thinks they have one in stock. But I won't have time to buy the tools, run home, and make it back to the LBS.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Don't have them off the top of my head, but a question was asked on amazon's YST bottom bracket cup set that indicated they were 4mm (3/16"). 9 bearings per side, english thread.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

So 3/16" bearings, 9 per side. Is the OD of where the bearings thread in all the same?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Standard English size. English / British / BSA / ISO.
1.370" X 24 tpi
1.375" X 24 tpi


Canoe said:


> ... YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (for under $10). BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW ...


Any BSA cupset with bearings should work, but the YST performs really really well - it's the one recommended.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Well I just went through the bike. They didn't have the YST set at the shop, only sealed units.

Here is what I found, bear in mind I have not ridden any bicycle in 10+ years

- Rotors slightly warped. They only rub a little bit, when I spin the tires. I will replace them. As well the brakes are not good.

- Grease everywhere. Headset was greased, hubs were good, a little tight, but good.

- Bottom bracket bearings had filings in them. Cleaned and regreased 

Shifter/derailuer is out a bit. Needs tuning.

- Brakes, are pretty bad. Slow to stop, and loud. I have never had a rotor bike. But seems loud to me also rear brake handle is stripped on its adjustment. So brakes are very soft on rear

- Shifter is cracked. Works still but cracked. Box had some damage. I'll talk to Costco tomorrow about parts. I'd rather not wait for another bike, but ball is going to be in their court.



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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Call PacBike. They will overnight any critical part you need.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah. I'll call them. I'd rather not setup another one. If I replace the brake levers with EF-51, that solves the brake lever and shifter issue. Brakes, I might just replace.

On the plus side, I didn't install the mega range I bought, and it's fine without. Atleast for my street crawling


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Nothing like a solid gold fat bike - Fat bike, Fat bike direct from Shenzhen Xinbao Bicycle Company Limited in China (Mainland)


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Got the Minnesota Fat rear wheel in last night. It is narrower, but nicer than the Dolores wheels. I won't get a chance to play with it for fit until saturday. Until then here are some teaser pics.

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Sorry the phone didn't upload the pics:


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

That is a nice looking rim. What is the weight difference? 


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

N49atv - just a note.... All disc brakes need time to break in. Granted them dolo brakes are not great, but they will get better after a couple rides...


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah I'm going to adjust them again tonight. Part of the issue on rears is the lever is stripped. The tension adjustment on the lever will thread out, but if you firmly apply brakes, it skips back in and you lose your extra tension. Fronts are fine. I was thinking I'd switch to EF-51 shifters/brake levers anyway. Rotors are cheap, and they are only a little warped. They only rub a little bit. Each rotor has a small spot about 1" long where they rub a while the rim turns. 


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## Alejandro1 (Dec 25, 2014)

I forgot to mention after I read these, my brakes were all messed up. There was no more room to move the calipers, I had to go to the bike store and buy spacer/washers to get the fixed side pad closer to the rotor, and then adjust the other rotor. Same, the rear not only that, but it was mounted too low, so the edge of the rotor would scrape, I had to add a spacer there too. Both rotors are warped a little too.
All that said, these big heavy tires build up a lot of rotating momentum, like two massive flywheels, so we need good brakes to slow them down.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah I want good stopping power. The path around the lake and sub division has lots of families, and kids. I'd hate to hit one, or run one over because they fell off their bike, or accidentally cut I front of me, etc. 

I don't think I need BB7, but maybe 5. I'll see price difference.


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## Alejandro1 (Dec 25, 2014)

The stopping power of bb5 and bb7 is the same. But the bb7 is a lot easier to adjust. You can adjust both pads without tools. 
So if you can, fire your own happiness, get the 7.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Dolomite factory: $75 each, create your own name and sticker

Fat Bike, Fat Bike direct from Tianjin Chaowang Industry&Trade Co., Ltd. in China (Mainland)

They have some killer carbon bikes, around $500. Sell them in the US for $3000 ? I am in the wrong business.


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

I have installed a bottom bracket mounted front derailleur! The catch.... I got bit by another Mongoose... the "Vinson" I was able to get it for $493 delivered to my door. I passed the Dolo to my wife, but not before major changes to make it easier for her to ride.

I was curious about both bikes having 190mm rears, but the Vinson was just a way nicer set-up as far as stock parts...(Triple crank, better disc brakes, sealed bottom bracket, etc...) I popped the crank/bottom bracket off the Vinson and it fit the Dolo. It does have less clearance @ crankarm/chainstay than Vinson. I'm guessing it is because of the slightly different taper of the stays... It is like 3mm which is tight but it worked!

So with it mounted I began thinking about the FD taking cues from the Vinson's bottom bracket mounted FD. I found a Deore xt bottom bracket FD for $15 used from ebay. So with it mounted I began to think of cabling. I decided to ziptie to existing derailleur/brake cables and install clamp stop from a rear bike light to secure to the seat tube. 

Results: all 3 gears work up front!!!! A whole new world for the Dolo's has opened up! The bottom bracket from the Vinson was 156-158mm. Bear in mind... theVinsons crankarms have a high q-factor. So a replacement crank has to be comparable. But this means my old Dolo BB is now scrap parts and I now have a replaceable drivetrain! 

So I had to replace the BB that I took off the Vinson and could not believe my luck in finding a VP BB relabeled Origin 8 100x164mm fatbike BB for $17.99 at modernbike.com. Unbeatable deal! More clearance than the original since I kept the cranks that I originally put on the Dolo for myself, but with extra chainring now instead of singlespeed set-up. 

Here are some pics: I have redecaled both bikes to be Bontrager.... One of the pics shows seatclamp that uses 27.2 seatpost with Dolo.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

That's the bike I would have bought had it been available. I'll mod mine as I need to pick up more speed around the lake


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Looks like the MF3.0 wheel fits without issue. Here are some pics mounted up. I checked the brake rotor clearance and it "Appears" that it will be fine once the pads are adjusted. I may have to change the spacing on the caliper a little, but not entirely sure yet. Once I have a rotor off one of the wheels I will know for sure (unless I can find a spare rotor laying around for cheap.

If there are any more pics that I need to take for anyone please let me know now. There is more rain coming and I have to get a few things done before work at 6 tonight.

I'll leave it on the rack until either the rain is closer or work time comes.






























Now it looks like I will be buying an 8 speed cassette and an 8 speed shifter. Might have a 7 speed trigger shifter for sale later unless we use it on another one of the bikes.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The pictures are compressed, can you re-post them in normal size? And I'm interested in the shifter.

And I have been wondering if a 8 sp would fit on the Dolo but I'm thinking a Shimano HG will.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Working on it. 

Settle down Azinger..it's not for sale yet...lol

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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

A 21" Dolomite, I wish they sold these here.

Steel Fat Bike/ Bicycle 2014 New Style - Buy Fat Bicycle,Cheaper Fat Bicycle,Fat Bike Bicycle Product on Alibaba.com

Dolomites for sale at Academy 199.
Academy - Mongoose® Men's Dolomite 26" 7-Speed Fat Tire Bicycle


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

I just bought 3x7 rapid fire shifters, and BB5/HS1. The LBS had BB5, for $59/rim. To order in BB7s was $95/rim. And now I could have 3x8! Don't know how far I'll upgrade, but transferable to another bike


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Got my eyeballs on these:
http://tinyurl.com/o6ldktt


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

That's a good price....wonder if they are the real deal or imitations made by the night crew?

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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Stang951 said:


> That's a good price....wonder if they are the real deal or imitations made by the night crew?


I always look at the feedback. Idiots and crooks don't last long on eBay like they used too. It would be worth an e-mail if you think they are knock-offs, but since everything is made in China these days it's really hard to say. Besides, if this guy is selling knockoffs then so is the LBS.

UPDATE: I called SRAM and they told me if the product does not have a box it may be a knock-off. The brakes are made in Taiwan so anything from Hong Kong or the mainland may be counterfeit. So that's just about everything on eBay or Amazon.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Has anyone upgraded rotor size? The rear looks pretty tight, and I don't think there is room to go up


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The rear has bends in the frame where it looks like you could put in a 180 rotor. Plus, with the 190mm rear axle width, you could probably fit a dinner plate back there with room to spare. 

I bought some of the bb7's off Fibica's ebay store. So far, no complaints and I've put a lot of rides on them.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

How is their stopping power compared to stock? I'll take a pic of mine. Looks tight for 180s


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

This seller has BB7's in the retail box. Avid BB7 Ball Bearing MTB Disc Brake with 160mm Rotor Front or Rear Mountain New | eBay

The boxed sets come with a star drive tool. Numbers, Avid and date code are etched on the rotor surface.

And when talking to SRAM they obviously can't or won't do anything about counterfeiting. They seem rather ambivalent, maybe it's not worth their time and trouble.

Here is the manual on the SRAM website dated 2012: http://tinyurl.com/msqej6r


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

N49ATV said:


> How is their stopping power compared to stock? I'll take a pic of mine. Looks tight for 180s


comparing BB7 to the stock Jak brakes is like comparing a rangerover to a pinto. almost 3 times the surface area to the brake pad, better quality calipers and much easier to adjust. It will take more time and effort to set them up than cheaper disc brakes, simply because there is more to adjust. In the end, it's worth it though. the BB7 or BB5 will not save on weight though. They are built to last.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Got my Walgoose "Hitch" today

Wheels/tires are lighter than expected but still seem heavy ... this is my first fat bike.

Front wheel/tire 9lbs 14 oz

Feels like zero lube in Bottom bracket & head tube.

Will be totally disassembling & rebuilding with different parts anyway.

Decals are messed up again removing anyway.

Nothing looks bent or broken.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Looks cool for sure. Id like to see the Vision.


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

What's the difference on the BB7 rotors, HS1 vs G3?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tman52748 said:


> What's the difference on the BB7 rotors, HS1 vs G3?


hole design on the brake surface. End of the day, for the ebay knockoff ones, they'll do the same thing. The biggest thing is breaking them in well. Once you use them some, they are bedded in and break fine. They will be a litle lighter than the stock rotors but not enough to worry about considering the rest of the bike. However, you'll have much better rotor bolts. If you get the real ones, I heard the G3 were quieter.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I am 6' 2" & the hitch fits me surprisingly well. It is def bigger than I expected.

So far I have removed all decals, repacked the headset, put on a modern stem & wide bars & put a different brake of the front.
I had a 2004 era set of Hayes Hydraulic disc brakes laying around ..... they fit perfect .... I didn't even have to shim them!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Weight *43.5 pds* vs Dolomite* 49 pds*. 
The cranks are alloy so that saves 1.5 pds.
Maybe another 1 pd for the drilled wheels.
The last 3 pds is a lighter frame and components .

Differences:
The pedals are twice as thin.
The seat post clamp is skeletonized.
The seat post is knurled the entire length.
Spokes are black.
No name on the brakes, different rotor, lighter.
The wheel looks black in the pictures, but is actually Dolomite Blue so I guess they have some paint left over.

The handlebar stem is shorter and the headset is located higher than the Dolomite so it brings the bars up and closer to the rider.















Mine came with the rear rotor loose, I will have to pop off the tire and figure out what kind of tool it takes.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

My Hitch is 43.5 lbs as well ... I looked closer after your post ...my wheels are definitely black not dark blue.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Looks like the hitch is a much better starting point for a trail bike. Swap to a trigger shifter and put on a lower chainring gear up front. The different fork looks longer, lowering the headtube angle. I wonder if it's as flexy as the dolo's fork, or if it's stiffer since it's has tapered fork legs. The stock dolo fork flexed a lot under heavy braking.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> My Hitch is 43.5 lbs as well ... I looked closer after your post ...my wheels are definitely black not dark blue.


Dolomite blue is very dark. Look at it in the sunlight or put a flashlight on it, you will see the dark blue metallic paint.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER said:


> Dolomite blue is very dark. Look at it in the sunlight or put a flashlight on it, you will see the dark blue metallic paint.


Mine are black no metallic


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

UPDATE: My rear break rotor is loose, so I look at it and to my horror the rotor flange screws onto the hub. No lock nut. I called Pac Bike and and was elevated to a supervisor who said to take it back to Wally or let my LBS fix it and they reimburse me. 

I called my LBS and they had never heard of a screw in rotor mount. I guess I could put some red Loctite on it but I have no way of screwing it in besides hand tightening using the rotor as leverage.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

What about putting some grommet material around it, and using a strap wrench?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

N49ATV said:


> What about putting some grommet material around it, and using a strap wrench?


That's the best idea I've heard yet. Pac-Bike is unsure of the new Hitch and do not have any spare parts. (The first tech rep I called thought I was calling about a trailer hitch.)


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Got the rear wheel all mounted up. Looks good. Rides well, and once the shifter gets here I'll have 8 speeds. Only thing I'll miss is the bright red paint. Not really thrilled with the anodized red.

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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Stang951 said:


> Only thing I'll miss is the bright red paint. Not really thrilled with the anodized red.


Anodized aluminum can be painted over without primer since the process makes the aluminum neutral (not reactive) and provides a rough surface for paint adhesion. Rust-Oleum would do the trick.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

If I paint them and later decided to strip thwm, would it affect the anodized coating?

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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The rotor flange screws onto the hub on my Hitch as well. I think I'll just lock tight it.
Def odd way for them to do it though.

Ordered a seat post & YST BSA Cupset. I know the Hitch is a cheapo bike but these 2 things are just too bad too live with & I didn't have them in my parts stash.
Oh & I'm replacing every bolt on the thing as well .... the original bolts are beyond crap.

Actually the only parts I'm not replacing is the frame (obviously), wheels/tires, freewheel & the bottom bracket spindle ... I'm swapping everything else.

I like many of you have been riding for many years & have accumulated a pile of spare parts so I will end up with a decent little Fatbike for about $300.00.

I'm having fun building this bike up but I definitely would not have gone this route if I had to buy all these upgrade parts new .... wouldn't even be worth it.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Well for me it was a no brainer, even ordering all the parts. It has been fun (and I would have spent the money elsewhere anyway) AND no one down here orders fat bikes. The two shops that I asked stated that they only ordered ones that are 2-3 thousand dollars. I have way less than that even ordering the parts new.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

Yeah same thing up here. I can pick up a moonlander locally, and 2 others. But the lowest I can even get into is about. 2k. And I'm using mine as a cruiser, for riding with my boys. Not as a fatbike per say.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> UPDATE: My rear break rotor is loose, so I look at it and to my horror the rotor flange screws onto the hub. No lock nut. I called Pac Bike and and was elevated to a supervisor who said to take it back to Wally or let my LBS fix it and they reimburse me.
> 
> I called my LBS and they had never heard of a screw in rotor mount. I guess I could put some red Loctite on it but I have no way of screwing it in besides hand tightening using the rotor as leverage.


it is threaded so when you brake the rotor mount tightens onto the hub.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

skota23 said:


> it is threaded so when you brake the rotor mount tightens onto the hub.


Yeah but I ride backwards a lot


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

After re-aligning the front fork, packing the headset bearings, getting the breaks just right, (except for the pitiful back brake) then I find that the rear axle is eccentric which makes the freewheel gyroscope. 
Should I take it back or is it worth fixing? 

I'm leaning toward following PacBikes suggestion to swap it out, but then I'm flipping a coin again, good or bad.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

I'd exchange. Your currently only out some time and grease


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

N49ATV said:


> I'd exchange. Your currently only out some time and grease


And so I looked at the "low end brand name fat bike" Minnesota 1.0 my LBS and online sellers are pumping, online cost 800, LBS 1000. My take is that it comes with low end components for the price. The Dolo/Hitch + $500 would put me in the Minnesota 2.0 (or better) range.
Framed Minnesota 1.0 Fat Bike 2015


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> ... I'm leaning toward following PacBikes suggestion to swap it out, but then I'm flipping a coin again, good or bad.


Normally a company will NOT want you to swap out, but to wait for parts to be available. If they advise you to swap it out, I'd suspect that is really good advice.

Yes you're flipping a coin again, and may have to do it another time too (but now you know that to inspect at the start), but it could save a world of trouble down the line.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Normally a company will NOT want you to swap out, but to wait for parts to be available. If they advise you to swap it out, I'd suspect that is really good advice.
> 
> Yes you're flipping a coin again, and may have to do it another time too (but now you know that to inspect at the start), but it could save a world of trouble down the line.


The rep me they don't have any spare parts, and they are unfamiliar with the Hitch. She told me they went to a training class but right now aren't quite as comfortable supporting it as they are the Dolo. Pac Bike offered to pay the LBS repair bill which was quite a surprise but I don't want to wait around for the reimbursement check.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I scoured the rotors with a fine flat bastard and carborundum stone. Eliminates the squeal and improves stopping power.

Before - note the unidirectional grind marks and pad marks, only contacting the ridges. Then After - stress relieved the stainless with mutli-directional grinding


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Just found this in the neighborhood, thrown in the garbage. Project fixie.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

All done for now.....except that now the brakes are not grabbing like they did before I swapped the wheel. With the stock wheels (or at least before I removed them) the brakes grabbed and stopped things pretty well. Now not so much. I wiped them down with denatured alcohol to get rid of any grease or oils from my hands. A



Any ideas?


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

No idea why it wouldn't stop as well. Did you remove the caliper to put the rim on? Could it be a cable tension thing? Same rotor, same mount, similar hub


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Same rotor, no adjustment to remove/replace wheels. The only thing that I can think of is that there was grease or oil on the rotor(s) when I first rode and contaminated the pads. I'll have to check that tomorrow


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Stang951 said:


> Any ideas?


FOR GOD'S SAKE, GET RID OF THE REFLECTORS!!!

Possibly contaminated the pads. I've had good luck spraying them down with carburetor cleaner. Also, if the loss of brake power was since you sanded the pads, you probably need to re-bed them.


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

After doing some reading I have also identified that whenever you change wheels you are supposed to realign the calipers. I'll sand the pads and realign the calipers tomorrow


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I'm almost finished building the Hitch. (for the moment) 

Here is what I upgraded .... I had all this stuff already.

Hayes Hydraulic Disc brakes 
Specialized 175mm cranks & chain rings
XTR Rear Derailleur & XT shifter
Kore Handlebars/ODI knock off grips
Truvativ 80mm Stem

I have a better seat post & the BB cups coming.

I haven't totally decided what goofy decals I'm going to stick with. These are as good as any to start. I own a graphics shop so these will change from time to time 

It has been fun building this & it is a interesting ride for sure.


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

That's a nice looking bike


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> It has been fun building this & it is a interesting ride for sure.


 Sweet. It's worth more than a $1500 bikes direct / LBS special by far. Give us the weight when you can.

I've thought about creating a circle template to spray paint the gray tape in the rims. Beats taking the tires off and putting in a new tape.


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## DrMike (Apr 25, 2015)

Comparing the Hitch to the Malus, are the headsets the same height or is the Malus the same height as the Dolomite?

Looking to buy and like the height of the Hitch.

Thanks.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I did up the wheels this morning .... Looks a lot better IMHO










I'll post the final weight when I'm done .... it is just shy of 43 lbs now but I have more to do yet.

The tires & tubes are heavy as sh*t .... I can loose 3 lbs or more just by changing them.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

getting first fat boy for fat boy. hitch coming monday. those that have received the 
hitch,,,first impressions, better quality or not, packed better, better parts etc???

thanks


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The Hitch is prob lighter out of the box than the Dolo or Malus but I think they are all on the same level quality wise


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> getting first fat boy for fat boy. hitch coming monday. those that have received the
> hitch,,,first impressions, better quality or not, packed better, better parts etc???
> 
> thanks


Packed much better, see my picture. All painted surfaces protected. Welds nicer, beautiful paint and deep clear coat. Quality is a coin toss. My Dolomite was perfect, my Beast had a bent spindle. My Hitch with the loose brake and bent fork, I think the assemblers hate our guts. They get the Most Running American Dogs re-education training each morning before the shift starts.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> ...I think the assemblers hate our guts. They get the Most Running American Dogs re-education training each morning before the shift starts.


Given the extreme care obviously given to some parts, there are things falling through the cracks. I think the assemblers are thinking that they'd better make their quota for their shift, or their kids won't be eating...


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

ok, getting some parts...want to make sure will fit the hitch

1. handlebar...(31.8 or 25.4mm) w 100mm(4"rise)...will it fit with existing cable length
2. shimano mf-tz31 megarange freewheel 14-34 7-speed
3. shimano acera sl-m310 rapid fire...right...7-speed
4. seat post...28.6mm/350mm or 450mm
5. bearings...yst sealed BSA cupset...english threads

any help would be appreciated...new at all this stuff


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

4" rise may make the Hitch look like the Beast, a cruiser.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

foolofsand said:


> ok, getting some parts...want to make sure will fit the hitch
> 
> 1. handlebar...(31.8 or 25.4mm) w 100mm(4"rise)...will it fit with existing cable length
> 2. shimano mf-tz31 megarange freewheel 14-34 7-speed
> ...


Not sure about the cable length but the rest should work.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Before going with the Alpine geared Megarange freewheel, read and understand what follows below. And on the first post of this thread, there are some options for modifying the older style Megarange; read before you attempt, so you're not spending money twice. 
Seven speed or eight speed (without using the gear with the least teeth) will work.


watts888 said:


> On this bike, any 8-speed freewheel will work. The schimano 14-28 is a solid workhorse that will last, but doesn't have a low gear. The schimano 14-*34 megarange gives you that low gear*, *but it has the stupid huge gear gap. I'll never run a megarange again for trails*. Road use, sure. The best gear range on a freewheel I've seen was a sunrace 13-32T 8-speed. It's about as wide as you'll find for a freewheel, but you loose a litle quality with sunrace. I think it's more of a QC issue. Some are great, some aren't. My sunrace cassette on another bike is fine, my sunrace freewheel on the dolo has a squeel when freewheeling under load, even after oiling it with transmission fluid. *Either way, they'll last longer than the stock one.*


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## Stang951 (Jan 2, 2015)

Got the brakes adjusted, and sanded the front pads. Helped alot. Went for a 6 mile ride after. Found that the wheels dont roll as easy as my dolo wheels. Might have to break the axles open and check for proper grease.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Before going with the Alpine geared Megarange freewheel, read and understand what follows below. And on the first post of this thread, there are some options for modifying the older style Megarange; read before you attempt, so you're not spending money twice.
> Seven speed or eight speed (without using the gear with the least teeth) will work.


just from what Ive read these are possible mods. i will be asphalt 90% probably and
may find the stock just fine for my use. i will ride and then figure out. thanks for info.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

As it sits my Hitch weighs 42.2 lbs. I'm real close to calling this done for the time being.
Only a few things left to does that do not involve dropping more cash than I want to.

1: I still have to put on a bash ring in place of the big chain ring.
2: I'm changing grips as these ODi knock offs are actually heavy as sh*t! 
3: I'll be able to cut at least 2" off the seat post once I find the sweet spot.

These 3 things will prob get me dang close to 42lbs even.

After that new tubes & tires will loose me 3 more lbs. 
I think I'll just ride it a while & wait till I stumble on a deal .... maybe even for a whole wheelset.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

foolofsand said:


> ok, getting some parts...want to make sure will fit the hitch
> 
> 1. handlebar...(31.8 or 25.4mm) w 100mm(4"rise)...will it fit with existing cable length
> 2. shimano mf-tz31 megarange freewheel 14-34 7-speed
> ...


Handlebar: cable length should be OK. The front brake will probably need re-routing of the cable, but that's super easy. Worst case, buy some color matched cable housings. The stock stem on the dolo is 25.4mm, and I'll assume the Hitch uses the same one. It isn't high quality aluminum, so if you plan on doing anything off-road, buy a better stem. Less than $10 on amazon. And a wider alloy handlebar is worth it too. If you're doing trails, a 2" riser should be enough unless you're super tall. For reference, I'm 6'6", use a 120mm stem with a 1" rise handlebar with an extra 1" of steertube spacers. Good for trails. Could use an extra 1" for road.

Shifter & freewheel. the ones you list are good, but if you're buying a new shifter and freewheel, get the 8-speed. Same cost, why not get an extra gear. Just need to add a washer to the axle on the freehub side.

Seatpost: If you're tall, get the 450. If you're not tall, get the 350. since I'm tall, I got the 450mm. Still leaves about 5" inside the seattube.

Bearings. YST cupset works. Not saying it's hands down better than the stock once the stock is adjusted properly, but it is worth it if you're already taking the stock one off to repack the bearings. It's all about the bearings and cleaning really. The sealed cups are a nice bonus.

If you're mechanically inclined, when you repack the front bearings, go ahead and get a new rear 135mm QR axle and replace the front axle with it. The M10 axle works fine, just swap over the dust caps and make sure you get the axle centered.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Square tapered bottom bracket.
I bought the origin8 100mm x 164mm bottom bracket off amazon. Cost $16, so why not. Put on a set of crankarms, I've got clearance, and it works. YEA

The issue is, not all crankarms will work. These crankarms are truvative 5D from a 2008 motobecane. The original bike had a 113mm spindle bottom bracket, and it always put the crankarms too far out for the front shifter to work properly, so I think the proper axle length was supposed to be 108mm. When I measured my cranks, they had more crankarm clearance when measured against the bikes centerline compared to a suntour XCR and a shimano acera crankset. If you want to go this route, make sure you get some crankarms that require a 108mm bottom bracket spindle length. The only one I know if is the super cheap suntour XCT crankarms with the chainrings permanently riveted to the crankarms. If anybody knows of any other ones, let it be known.

Another item of importance, this will only allow you to use your two outermost chainring positions, and preferably the single outside position to maintain stock chainline. This limits you to a 30T raceface NW chainring as the smallest ring available. I'm currently running 28T on a small ring position (at times I wish I had 24T), and until I replace the hub, I won't make this change because I don't want to loose my low gearing. Plus the YST cups and stock axle are working good for now. No need to change, yet.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Well, good news, got my Hitch. Bad news, it came without a seat or a post or manual. Seat in stock, manual in stock but the post is on back-order at least 2-4 weeks. Really, no posts and they ship them anyway. Go figure. Guess this is the front end of a poor bike.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I wouldn't be surprised if the seat fell out and UPS just taped it back up. Maybe talk to someone at your local walmart?

In all honesty, buy a new seat and seatpost. The stock seat is uncomfortable after 15 minutes, and the stock seatpost is a heavy chunk of steel. You can get an alloy one off ebay that weighs about 1/2 to 1/3 the stock posts weight (assuming that it's the same seatpost as the dolomite)


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

they r on the list. have to cannibal something else till here to can ride


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## N49ATV (Apr 8, 2015)

My seat keeps breaking, the two bars pop out of there holders at the rear of the seat. It's gonna get replaced anyway. 


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I rode 7 miles in the woods today on the Hitch & everything went pretty smooth.
One thing for sure .... well actually more than one thing  1: it has been a looong time since I rode a full rigid bike in the woods, I've got very used to full suspension  
2: I "hate" the stock tires & they def have to go. I tried several different pressures & 8 lbs was the best but I still hated the feel of them. I think they are just too hard.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> Well, good news, got my Hitch. Bad news, it came without a seat or a post or manual. Seat in stock, manual in stock but the post is on back-order at least 2-4 weeks. Really, no posts and they ship them anyway. Go figure. Guess this is the front end of a poor bike.


Call PacBike - they will overnight the parts if you threaten to take the bike back to Wally. It's becoming obvious that the workers are on an unofficial strike. The average woman makes 1.50 to 2.50 /hr so how else to get back at the man. If you go online you can see pictures of their "state of the art" facilities and the assemblers.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I looked on my Hitch and it is made in Guangdong where Luanda, Gameida and Yunqun MTB are located. The Dolo was made in Tianjin where they have the Golden, Arise and Ocean bike factories. (In China they call Fat Bikes, Big Tire Snow Bikes). I did the math and it costs the factory 37 to make our bikes. If we all pooled together we could buy these bikes for $75 each from Alibaba.

Gameida's motto: "New Fashion, High Quality, To Make Customer Satisfy. Be Honest, Do Quickly, To Improve Constantly."


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

called them...the seat and instructions will be sent 7-10 days. the seat post is on back order and dont know when they will get that. maybe i can re-call them and say cancel my order and i will take the bike back to wallys


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

probably a dumb question but i know nothing about bikes other than 1 speed etc....anyway, why do the wheels spin but the brake disc just sits there? i can move the disc cw and ccw until it stops. are they designed that way or what? why isnt the disc just attacked to the hub etc like a motorcycle. how does the bike stop if the disc just sits there? does it have to wait for the wheel to catch up? thanks


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The brake disc should not turn separate from the wheel... Ever...

Some of the cheap ones haven a thread on mount and are secured with a locknut. You need to get it tight, or take it to a shop, as it could be unsafe.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> called them...the seat and instructions will be sent 7-10 days. the seat post is on back order and dont know when they will get that. maybe i can re-call them and say cancel my order and i will take the bike back to wallys


Don't call them, take the seat. Order a new Hitch, keep the old one and when the new one comes in you can raid it for parts if need be. Then take the worst of the pair back to Wally. You have 90 days anyway. That's what my plan is. However, if my next Hitch comes with a loose brake I am going to FedEx the CEO of Doral a stern letter.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

blown240 said:


> The brake disc should not turn separate from the wheel... Ever...
> 
> Some of the cheap ones haven a thread on mount and are secured with a locknut. You need to get it tight, or take it to a shop, as it could be unsafe.


The Hitch does not have a lock nut on the brakes. It's obvious they want to kill as many of us as they can.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

so how do i fix this brake problem?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> so how do i fix this brake problem?


Put Loctite on the threads. But if you feel that the bike is unsafe (and it is) and you are uncomfortable working on it then take it back to Wally.

Threadlockers from Loctite Products | Threadlocking / Mechanical Gasketing | Loctite Adhesives


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> so how do i fix this brake problem?


You don't. _(foolofsand: i know nothing about bikes other than 1 speed etc..)_

You've got a freely spinning brake disc/rotor. Unless you know how to do that such that you will _*know*_ that the brakes - and other parts - are working safely. Otherwise, you'll be putting your life at risk.

The product as delivered to you is incomplete in parts, incomplete in functionality and unsafe: incapable of the purpose and use it is sold for. RETURN IT.
Call Pacific and tell them:

that the brake disc is turning freely independently from the hub/wheel,
to cancel the parts order,
that you are returning the bike.
Try again with another bike. Note that I didn't say try again with another Hitch.

I like the drilled rims on the Hitch, but no way I'd go for less than completely secured brake disc/rotors. The hubs on the Dolo can't have that issue. Apparently the hubs on the Hitch do. Hitch or Dolo or other: your call.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I agree with canoe.

Foolofsand: I know it's pain in the butt returning, and waiting for another bike, but bad brakes are a big deal.

If you can swing it this is a MUCH better bike: Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity Bullseye Monster


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

the brake disc will turn freely either direction but will lock up once it is rotated toward the rear of the bike and the brakes work fine at that point. but i can unlock it by turning the disc the other direction. then applying the brakes, no worky until it catches up, then they work fine as long as i dont move the disc. so right now i can ride and the brakes work fine. i guess my question is...is that disc supposed to free wheel before its locked and if not, then what is wrong out of curiosity?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

The disc brake mount threads onto the hub. The problem you have is that it shouldn't get loose. I suppose if you ride it enough, it will get tight enough where it won't get loose anymore. The problem is that there is a possibility for the threads to get messed up, and as the rotor threads and unthreads from the hub, the brake adjustment gets changed.

I personally feel its a terrible design and potentially unsafe.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blown240 said:


> ...The problem you have is that it shouldn't get loose. ... The problem is that there is a possibility for the threads to get messed up...
> I personally feel its a terrible design and potentially unsafe.


That is has gotten loose tells me there's already a problem. Be it in assembly (too loose or threads screwed up), or in the design/cutting of the threads, or ???
It has a problem. 
Brakes are too important. 
Return it.

Shame if it's just that it was put on too loose, and if it hasn't taken damage by being loose, but how can _you_ tell. There's been a problem: at this point I don't trust it; not as is tightened down, not with Loctite, not with J.B. Weld.

It's not like it's just something that could fail and just cause you embarrassment or cost you money. There are circumstances where someone could die.

And if it moves, it's not just the adjustment, it also has the potential to screw up your calipers and/or discs.

A friend was about to buy a Hitch. He's not now. He's a big lad; stopped facing up a hill, will the disc stay torqued to the hub? He doesn't want to find out by rolling backwards off a trail.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

/\ /\ /\ /\ What he said...


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

I can't remember but does the Dolo have a lock nut? The Hitch actually is negative one thread, in other words the male threaded part is not long enough to capture the entire female mounting flange by one thread. 
But I get Hitch number 2 this Friday and I'll have to make a decision. Meanwhile I called PacBike and told them there are 2 Hitches out here with loose rotors. So they have been notified, it's documented. I also told them this is a lawsuit material. 
But there is no fix for this, the entire hub, brake, wheel assy will have to be redesigned. They could recall and eventually send current owners a complete new fixed wheel assy.
Meanwhile I told them to get an engineer in the US to look at it and make a decision.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Dolo doenst have a locknut. Im not sure if the flange threads on or not.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Return it. The savings you get buying this cheaper bike won't even come close to the dollars you could spend on medical bills if these brakes don't work. Your health is worth too much to risk on a bad wheel and brake design.


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Trek made an enormous recall of quick release skewers last week and that problem was no where near as dangerous as this loose rotor issue.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

ok, back it goes...but obviously no point in getting another...right? so what cheap 4" tire fat bike do I get?--dolo? i am only going to ride on asphalt 90%, ride w grandkids, maybe try to remove fat from body and i may not even like to ride. so, what on the cheap? still want 4" cuz its cool.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

how about the malus..sports authority for 240 for today only

ps only 233 kohls


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> how about the malus..sports authority for 240 for today only
> 
> ps only 233 kohls


The Malus is a Hitch. If all you are going to do is impromptu rides through the neighborhood and don't like working on bikes then get the Beast. It rides easier than a Hitch/Dolo and there are less things that can go wrong. For $189 it's not a bad deal. The Beast has a sit up and beg stance so you won't need to buy handlebars, but I advise new grips and bar ends.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

rather have the 7 speed. im old


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> rather have the 7 speed. im old


All the more reason to get a Beast. They have cruiser tires and if inflated to 20 pds it rolls like it's on glass. It's the easiest fat bike to ride in my opinion, others can jump in if they like, but for 200 including tax it's a no-brainer.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Or get the Excess. (Walmart sold it under the DK Duke name for 269). It's Al so it should weigh about 37 pds.

Academy - Huffy Adults' Excess 26" 7-Speed Fat Tire Bicycle


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

foolofsand said:


> so what cheap 4" tire fat bike do I get?--dolo? i am only going to ride on asphalt 90%, ride w grandkids, maybe try to remove fat from body and i may not even like to ride. so, what on the cheap? still want 4" cuz its cool.


The front end on this bike will take a larger 4" tire. The backend can take a larger tire, but with road tread. Hands down better quality than the dolo. I've heard some people say their 8th gear works fine. I'd think a simple washer would give enough clearance.
BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> ok, back it goes...but obviously no point in getting another...right? so what cheap 4" tire fat bike do I get?--dolo? i am only going to ride on asphalt 90%, ride w grandkids, maybe try to remove fat from body and i may not even like to ride. so, what on the cheap? still want 4" cuz its cool.


Are there hills were you are?
If not, then the stock Dolo should do fine. If there are hills, there are cheap freewheels and even used MTB triple fronts to use to make the hills climbable. 
You'll appreciate a better seat.
If you need to be more upright, there's swept back bars and there's BMX bars. 
Get lighter tubes. 
YST bottom bracket cup & bearings. 
If the budget will take it, better tires. You don't need top tires for what you're doing. Just about anything will roll easier than the stock ones.

DO work out what upgrades you would likely want. Work out the prices, and for labour if you don't feel inclined or don't have a friend who can and will do the work. Then compare that price to one that will be closer to complete out of the box for what you want. You may find you can get more bike for the same final price.

p.s.
I find my Dolo rolls much easier than the Beast. Both have the same tires & tubes. Never figured out why this is.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

kohls has a big offer for me with all my wives offers. new malus for $183...how can i beat that. it gives me alot more $$ for upgrades. sounds like a no brainer...malus is the model between the dolo and the hitch??


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Canoe said:


> That is has gotten loose tells me there's already a problem. Be it in assembly (too loose or threads screwed up), or in the design/cutting of the threads, or ???
> It has a problem.
> Brakes are too important.
> Return it.
> ...


The brakes are the same way on my Hitch. I used "blue" lock-tight & they haven't loosened at all & I did a 7 mile hard offroad ride with it. Def not a good design but I don't see how they could come loose unless you were pulling the bike backwards with the brake on a lot or it was Damaged to begin with. Mine are tight as hell. The Hitch is the best "Cheap" Mongoose so far IMHO


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

foolofsand said:


> kohls has a big offer for me with all my wives offers. new malus for $183...how can i beat that. it gives me alot more $$ for upgrades. sounds like a no brainer...malus is the model between the dolo and the hitch??


It looks like most of the components are pretty much the same/similar across the board. Hitch has drilled rims. Different color and slightly better fork on the Hitch and Malus. I'm still curious to see how the Hitch's hubs work out in the long run. Are they 170/135mm hubs?

I did see the Malus on Kohls, but you don't get to take the additional 30% off coupons. You do get their Kohls cash though, so in the long run it's still down to the $200 zone, once you account for the gift card rebate sort of thing. Not a bad way to get it if you buy stuff there. If Kohls did allow the coupons, that would be the best place to get one.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The Hitch brake flange/hub thing is a non issue for me or anyone the knows how to properly work on a bike. Unless the hub is damaged there in practically no way in can come loose in a normal riding situation with lock-tite & prob without. That being said, for the un-mechanically inclined I see it could be a problem. so yes it is def a bad design but IMHO not dangerous if not damaged & set up properly.

I can see them changing the group on future Hitch's but I would be stunned if they do a recall of any kind or give us current owners anything.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Azinger how did you return the Hitch? Did you take it to back to Wallyworld or did they send you a return shipping label?


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

What happened to all the dolomites? I thought this was a dolomite thread. I could care less about the Hitch, as I don't have one  Maybe the Hitch guys could create their own thread....hint hint.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Maybe the same thing that happened to the Beast thread. New bikes come out, and people stop talking about the old ones. 

I wonder if its better to have 2 threads, or just 1 that talks about all this style of inexpensive fat bikes.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

tman52748 said:


> What happened to all the dolomites? I thought this was a dolomite thread. I could care less about the Hitch, as I don't have one  Maybe the Hitch guys could create their own thread....hint hint.


Lighten up Francis!

All these cheap mongoose bikes are basically the same damn bike save a few minor differences. Besides that the Hitch is replacing the Dolomite according to pacific bikes.



blown240 said:


> just 1 that talks about all this style of inexpensive fat bikes.


Exactly


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> Azinger how did you return the Hitch? Did you take it to back to Wallyworld or did they send you a return shipping label?


All I need to do is print out a return receipt and take it back to Wally, which I will do after I get Hitch #2 on Friday. Crossing my fingers.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Just returned my Hitch to Wallys. Just took it back and got complete refund for bike and extended warranty at the store. No hassle. So, I ordered the Malus from Kohls for $183 and will be happy. Its basically the same as the Dolo and Hitch and the parts I ordered should fit the bike also. Should have same issues so Im good. Good info on site, I will read all the posts again for more info. 
ps..hope the Malus comes with a seat and post but I have them coming anyway.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tman52748 said:


> What happened to all the dolomites? I thought this was a dolomite thread. I could care less about the Hitch, as I don't have one  Maybe the Hitch guys could create their own thread....hint hint.


Same bike, different color. It seems this thread is more about modding the bike than anything. Really, who still has a stock dolomite?


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

It's a shame really Wallyworld crushes all the returned items like this that have been opened.


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## DrMike (Apr 25, 2015)

Has anyone verified the Hitch and Malus frames are the same?


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## tman52748 (Mar 12, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> Lighten up Francis!
> 
> All these cheap mongoose bikes are basically the same damn bike save a few minor differences. Besides that the Hitch is replacing the Dolomite according to pacific bikes.
> 
> Exactly


If I wasn't lightened up I wouldn't have put a smiley face in my post.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

DrMike said:


> Has anyone verified the Hitch and Malus frames are the same?


it is


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

DarknutMike said:


> The Hitch brake flange/hub thing is a non issue for me or anyone the knows how to properly work on a bike. Unless the hub is damaged there in practically no way in can come loose in a normal riding situation with lock-tite & prob without. That being said, for the un-mechanically inclined I see it could be a problem. so yes it is def a bad design but IMHO not dangerous if not damaged & set up properly.
> I can see them changing the group on future Hitch's but I would be stunned if they do a recall of any kind or give us current owners anything.


The problem is, for anyone who doesn't have the know-how, or thinks they do but don't, they can't reliably tell if it:

simply needs tightening, or
got damaged as it wasn't tightened, got damaged when assembled, threads/hub manufactured out of spec, or whatever technical issue,
and if they're wrong, they could get into a world of hurt.

Which is why we're seeing Pacific sending people to LBSs: purchaser gets to find out and Pacific gets to find out. It's the quickest way for Pacific to get feedback. (yes, one LBS's 'findings' aren't reliable/enough, but if there's enough people reporting issues, then enough LBS reports give them a better handle on what's up, and what to look for on the bikes they've already pulled out of inventory to test, take apart and examine. And they're ensured that a purchaser who isn't qualified to tell is getting their bike checked by an LBS to ensure that their bike is not in the second category and hence at risk if they ride the bike.)
Trust me, Pacific already knows a lot more about this than we do, and will be working to determine which category the issue falls into.

I don't like that type of design for mounting my brake disc. But if I had a Hitch, and I (or my materials goto guys) could determine that the threads, hub & flange parts are undamaged, and strong enough to take the force of the total mass braking at speed against a mechanical advantage between 10x and 30x (depending on the size of the parts-I don't have one in my hands to examine) without cracking and blowing apart the hub portion of the disc-mounting-flange, and would be reliably aligned and square to the axle (so the caliper can be adjusted properly), and it doesn't have to be removed for servicing the hub, then I'd be degreasing the threads and installing the disc-mounting-flange with J.B. Weld. With it joined with J.B. Weld, then under an extreme emergency braking force, the disc-mounting-flange's hub should not move and should not be able to be damaged by being forced beyond the limits of its threads. Key word there is "should". 
If I was using the bike as a cruiser around town, no steep hills, not a speed demon and not a Clyde, then I'd consider Loctite.

sigh...
No.
No I wouldn't.
I'd use J.B. Weld. 
Loctite only if the disc-mounting-flange needed to be removable for servicing the hub.

*And this brings us back to making sure that the bike you purchase is suitable to the task you intend it for:
a cruiser for around town or easy trails, vs.
the sport of fat bike riding. 
*To me, a thread-on disc-mounting-flange is NOT acceptable for the sport of fat bike riding. But *these bikes are not sold intended for the sport of fat bike riding*. *If you're going to upgrade parts to take it down that path, make sure you know what you are doing!*

p.s.
I am not going to outline what to look at, for, or to consider, to make a determination on the serviceability of a suspect thread-on disc-mount-flange. 'Cause if you get it wrong, it could be a world of hurt. If you have any doubt about yours, take it to a reliable LBS.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Once again why the original Dolo is a good platform for a garage built fat bike. Accepts normal rotor and brake upgrades, accommodates larger tires, welds are decent, freewheel is outdated but reliable, thru axles are outdated but with the high torque the larger tires put on the drive train many of the other fat bikers are making a switch back to this technology and getting rind of qr skewers. I would order a Dolomite from amazon over the hitch.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The Hitch is a upgrade to the dolomite & is replacing it.

I did a little research & it turns out the threaded brake flange has been around for a long time for bicycles. IMHO the threaded flanges on the Hitch is a non issue as long as it is in good working order & will tighten as designed.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

DarknutMike said:


> The Hitch is a upgrade to the dolomite & is replacing it.
> I did a little research & it turns out the threaded brake flange has been around for a long time for bicycles. IMHO the threaded flanges on the Hitch is a non issue as long as it is in good working order & will tighten as designed.


Except that no matter how many times or ways you say that, ...


Canoe said:


> The problem is, for anyone who doesn't have the know-how, or thinks they do but don't, they can't reliably tell if it:
> 
> simply needs tightening, or
> got damaged as it wasn't tightened, got damaged when assembled, threads/hub manufactured out of spec, or whatever technical issue,
> and if they're wrong, they could get into a world of hurt.


When someone has one that will tighten but won't stay tightened, there's something going wrong. They'll have to find out why.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The Hitch is not an upgraded Dolo, it's a completely different bike offered by another bike broker in China. (Similarities exist only because all of the sub-assemblies and components come from the same factory).

This is how it happens. Doral flips through a catalog and selects a model they want and then lets out the bid for contract. In this case Guangdong wins, they build the Hitch. The problem is they suck at assembling bikes whereas Tianjin (Dolo) finally had it figured out.

Skip to 1:20. This is what my Hitch does and why it's going back, there is no fix for this. If Hitch #2 comes in like this I will give the CEO of Doral a call. They changed factories and went with the low bidder.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Canoe said:


> Except that no matter how many times or ways you say that, ...
> 
> When someone has one that will tighten but won't stay tightened, there's something going wrong. They'll have to find out why.


If that happens that would fall under the category of being damaged.

I'm just saying the threaded disc brake flange has been around for years ( for bikes & motorcycles) & if not damaged & installed properly is safe. I'm not saying I like it I'm just saying it works when it is right.

Well maybe the Hitch isn't replacing the Dolo ... I read it on the internet & you know everything on the net is true. 

At this point I have put several miles on my My Hitch "offroad" & it does not have Freewheel wobble & the disc flanges have remained tight. The front wheel flange was loose initially but the rear was tight.

My whole point is telling people not to buy the Hitch because of the brake flange design is a knee jerk reaction to a couple of bad bikes.

I still think the Hitch is the best cheap Mongoose yet based on my my Hitch & seeing the packages on the other bikes that use the same basic frame. Maybe I'm just lucky & got a good Hitch, If that is the exception only time will tell.

I most likely would not have returned my Hitch even if the freewheel & hubs were bad because I planned on changing that stuff anyway. My plan is to end up with a mid 30lbs steel Fatbike with better a than average part group for $600 or $700 dollars. I'm totally on track with my plan & the Hitch frame is exactly what I was looking for.


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## mondoburr (Apr 30, 2015)

Hello all, new to the forum not new to bikes. I picked up a Malus for what it is to me. A cool fun project bike to take on camping trips. Had a stash of parts so here it is so far...


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

I should be getting my Malus tomorrow. keep me informed on what you do and how the bike is if u could. did it come from the factory with apparent flaws...no seat or bent parts or big scratches etc. thanks


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## mondoburr (Apr 30, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> I should be getting my Malus tomorrow. keep me informed on what you do and how the bike is if u could. did it come from the factory with apparent flaws...no seat or bent parts or big scratches etc. thanks


I picked it up in the box so I could go through it myself as I put it together. No missing parts or major issues. Had to spend some time on the brakes but once adjusted they seem to be fine (agree with others that while not a great design they work). I keep it in my office and rode it around our site and on the train tracks yesterday and it is a fun bike.

I bought it with the intent of tinkering with it and had parts laying around from other bikes so ...
Brooks saddle
Chromag 31.8 bars 
FSA 170mm crankset w/origin 8 chainring
Easton stem
Shimano shifter (don't like grip shift)
Electra pedals


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## mondoburr (Apr 30, 2015)

Has anyone changed the axles to quick release or added a new wheelset with quick release axles?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Frame up restoration finished. Just in time to put the Hitch together tonight. 
The bike rides like it's on pillow cushions.


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## Alejandro1 (Dec 25, 2014)

I am getting confused, some people here say the Hitch has an aluminium frame, even wrote about it being anodized. Others (and the walmart web site) say the frame is steel. Can somebody please clear this up?
I have a Dolomite, I put an 8 speed freewheel, a clicker shifter, seals on the bottom bracket and a lot of grease (I guess grease is very expensive in China since it had almost no grease at all), and then I went and had a lot of fun.
But, this a Mongoose bike, I don't expect it last very long, so if the Hitch is so much lighter, it might be the bike to get when the Dolomite falls apart...


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

azinger, nice job on bike above.....just got malus...only reflector broken, front disc not attached and was sent with pedals with bolts. the flange for the disc is loosely threaded on so i just may loctite that in place since its loose now without the disc. looks like i can put together tonite and check it out. im stoked for $183...it will be a good start...if i like it, i may get better bike but should be fine for my purpose. this is only 1 of 62 other hobbies i do...priorities u know.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The Hitch is steel same as the Dolo.
It is overall lighter because of the parts


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

*Hitch #2:*

Both rotors loose. Applied KwikWeld on threads, problem solved. 
Both brake caliper bodies off center. Adjusted, perfect. 
Aligned front tire. Both wheels trued. 
Both headset bearings bent, minimal grease. Who knows how that happened and why on earth would the assembler install them on the bike. Bent them back and applied grease. Will call PacBike and get some extras anyway. 
Front hub bearings dry, cone nut too tight (common on the Mgoose) 
Rear hub bearings and freewheel OK, repacked bearings. 
Can't install the YST bearings, the drive side bottom bracket nut is frozen. 

The bike feels great now, but only after spending many hours tuning it.

Bent Bearing








Brakes after adj.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

good thing i checked front wheel bearings. they had fallen out and had 12 on one side and 6 on other. at least this one had more grease. rest seems ok, have to tighten brakes and ready to ride.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> good thing i checked front wheel bearings. they had fallen out and had 12 on one side and 6 on other. at least this one had more grease. rest seems ok, have to tighten brakes and ready to ride.


Can you look on the seat tube sticker for me and tell me where it was made?


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Shenzhen, Guangdong


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Well I will be riding my Hitch a lot the next few weeks as I broke the Chain Stay 
on my Covert today! Ahhh!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Looks like the Mongoose / BikeDirect's are made in the Youn Live factory, north of Hong Kong whereas the Dolo was made way up north next to Beijing. The reality is that they are probably made somewhere deep inside China in a prison camp, then, brokers distribute them around China to the various factories where they are painted / assembled. How can anyone beat free labor?

Of course the Surly, Salsa, 9zero7, On Ones etc,. are all made there as well.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Replaced the stock bottom bracket bearings. They were greased enough to work (and were clean, uncontaminated), but there were air spaces. So not enough grease for good heat conduction (bearing life) nor enough to be completely packed to prevent water from getting into the race.
> 
> I had a spare set of new cups & bearings sitting around for the Beast. They fit the Dolo.
> YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (for under $10). BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW
> ...


so to use these bearings, i need a pin spanner to adjust?? size?? thanks


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> so to use these bearings, i need a pin spanner to adjust?? size?? thanks


Park Tool Co. » SPA-1 : Pin Spanner: Green : Bottom Bracket


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

My Hitch sounds like it is grinding coffee when the freewheel is spinning down to low RPM's.
Anyone use a Shimano 7-Speed Tourney Bicycle Freewheel - MF-HG37 ?

In any event, I'm adding the freewheel to my list of parts when I call PacBike.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Looking like I lucked out with My Hitch not having any major problems.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

AZINGER said:


> My Hitch sounds like it is grinding coffee when the freewheel is spinning down to low RPM's.
> Anyone use a Shimano 7-Speed Tourney Bicycle Freewheel - MF-HG37 ?
> 
> In any event, I'm adding the freewheel to my list of parts when I call PacBike.


The shimano freewheel will work. Also, if you're planning on buying a new 7-speed trigger shifter, you can also get an 8-speed freewheel and an 8-speed trigger shifter to work on the dolo.

You can add a litle oil (transmission fluid or engine oil) to the freewheel by tilting it 45-degrees and dripping some into the area between the smallest gear and where the axle goes. Drop some in, give the freewheel a spin, repeat. Should aim for the spot where the freewheel spins, but the hub doesn't.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> The shimano freewheel will work. Also, if you're planning on buying a new 7-speed trigger shifter, you can also get an 8-speed freewheel and an 8-speed trigger shifter to work on the dolo.
> 
> You can add a litle oil (transmission fluid or engine oil) to the freewheel by tilting it 45-degrees and dripping some into the area between the smallest gear and where the axle goes. Drop some in, give the freewheel a spin, repeat. Should aim for the spot where the freewheel spins, but the hub doesn't.


All of this^^^^^^
should be the same for a Hitch, etc.

See first post for links to freewheel options. Shows Gear Inches charts so you can get an idea what your gearing will end up at.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> so to use these bearings, i need a pin spanner to adjust?? size?? thanks


First post of this thread, first item under Recommended Upgrades, are two links to the Park Tools Blog (one for getting the crank arms off, the other for adjustable BBs).


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

watts888 said:


> You can add a litle oil (transmission fluid or engine oil) to the freewheel by tilting it 45-degrees and dripping some into the area between the smallest gear and where the axle goes. Drop some in, give the freewheel a spin, repeat. Should aim for the spot where the freewheel spins, but the hub doesn't.


Turns out a few bearings have flat spots, so they roll fine at high RPM but then literally grind to a halt at low RPM. Pac Bike is expediting a new freewheel and headset bearings, will rec'v on Wednesday. I may upgrade anyway with a new freewheel and chain which should get rid of some of the ticks.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

ordered today. thanks....the pin spanner...thanks azinger and canoe


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> Looking like I lucked out with My Hitch not having any major problems.


You lucked out and probably got a one out of a hundred bike.

And keep us posted on how well your upgrades work, it's helpful to know. I think my big upgrade will be to go with lighter tires and then 14 or 21 speed.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> Turns out a few bearings have flat spots, so they roll fine at high RPM but then literally grind to a halt at low RPM. Pac Bike is expediting a new freewheel and headset bearings, ...


wow
Sure a lot of issues rearing their heads with the Hitch. And not ones you can ignore or put up with. I wonder how many people are going to get burnt, just because they can't identify the issues until it's out of warranty. Unfortunately, in keeping with the department store bike reputation, those bike are likely to quickly end up unrideable, then recycled or in landfill. I thought with the Beast and the Dolo they were leaving the bulk of that rep behind.

Pacific is sure going to have their hands full.
Hope they can get the Hitch factory to get their QA improved.

They might be better off to get the factory that made the Dolo to make a new model for them.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Canoe said:


> wow
> Sure a lot of issues rearing their heads with the Hitch. And not ones you can ignore or put up with. I wonder how many people are going to get burnt, just because they can't identify the issues until it's out of warranty. Unfortunately, in keeping with the department store bike reputation, those bike are likely to quickly end up unrideable, then recycled or in landfill. I thought with the Beast and the Dolo they were leaving the bulk of that rep behind.
> 
> Pacific is sure going to have their hands full.
> ...


Luckily I still have Hitch #1. I was able to swap freewheels and wheel sets to isolate and determine the cause. But after I install the new freewheel and headset bearings Hitch #2 is golden, I have gone over each component to my satisfaction. The best thing is that is is lighter by 6 pds which does not seem like much but I'm able to carry it around much easier than the Dolo and Beast.

But the ChiComs are only interested in making money, not quality products, and it's only getting worse. So from now on I'll just buy used older bikes and fix them up.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER said:


> You lucked out and probably got a one out of a hundred bike.
> 
> And keep us posted on how well your upgrades work, it's helpful to know. I think my big upgrade will be to go with lighter tires and then 14 or 21 speed.


Yeah I checked every bearing & they were all fine. I did add the YST BB cups & bearings & they are a much better quality part for sure.

Got new tire & tubes coming today ... should get the Hitch weight down a lot.
I decided to go a different direction I will post pix when finished. I went with straight bars with bar-ends instead of the super wide riser bars in the pictures. I'm also adding a front derailleur. I have one that mounts at the BB.

The Hitch will be my main ride for a while since my Covert broke .... hopefully not too long .... The Hitch is fun but I love my Covert!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

AZINGER said:


> Park Tool Co. » SPA-1 : Pin Spanner: Green : Bottom Bracket


Multiple manufacturers for this type of pin spanner. They work, but so does simply putting in a hex key (the L-shaped ones) into one of the holes and rotate it around the axle. won't get as much leverage as the pin spanner, but for the BB, you don't want to over tighten anyway.

And in regards to bearings, they're cheap. Buy a new set of bearings from your LBS. Less than $5 for both wheels. Or buy them off amazon. Less than $5 for every bearing on your bike multiple times.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here. I'm 68 and have new artificial knees. So ride only E-bikes for the past 10 years. My riding is limited to forest preserve type trails (hard packed gravel or paved). I have built several Wallie world bike into E-bikes and been very happy with them. All are mid-drive setups. Now I am trying the Dolomite as a mid-drive e-bike. The conversion was very straight forward and simple.

I have already ordered and/or received many items to lighted the bike. But once I mounted the motor (8.5 lbs), motor mount (1 lbs, and battery pack (30 lbs) I'm still going to have one heavy bike to stop.

Here's a few I am changing;

Crank/motor sprocket 34t

Brand New Race Face Team 104 x 34T SS Single Speed 9 Speed Chainring Jet Black | eBay

Tires - I am really interested in trying theses at that price

2PAK Sunlite Vee Crusher 26"x 3 5" Wire Bead Fat Bike Tires Black Fit Speedster | eBay

Tubes - but I may eventually try tubeless

Sunlite Fat Bike Inner Tube 26x4 32mm Schrader Valve Boxed New Eco Packaging | eBay

Suspension fork on the cheap

Snow Bike Fork Beach Bike Fat Tire Bike Fork Spread 135mm Suspension Fork 26 In | eBay

My seat post is an existing Thud Busted and I use a fat butt cushy seat

Handle bar upgrades

XLC Adjustable Bicycle Handlebar Head Stem 1 1 8 25 4mm x 90mm x 0 60 Black Bike | eBay

Bicycle Rise Handlebars Black Steel 3 1 2" | eBay

1 Head Handlebar Stem Raiser Riser Extender Extension 120mm for Bike Bicycle | eBay

Now I am trying to decide on my brakes to stop this beast. A normal 35 lb bike turns into an 80 lb electric conversion bike. So a Dolo at 48 lbs would normally turn into a 93 lb e-bike. I'm hoping to eventually shave that to 80 lbs as well.

Here are the brakes I have been looking at. Please advise me if they would be a straight forward install or will I need to have some kind of adapter.

Avid BB7 MTB Mechanical Disc Brake w Rotor HS 1 Heat Shedding 160mm Rotor Front | eBay $90 a set

TRP HY RD Cable Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake Includes 160mm Rotor Black | eBay

$268 a set

I notice the different type of disk mounting holes in different sets I've looked at. Some just have the 6 standard holes while others have those 6 holes plus slotted holes. Which do I need?

Thanks, Bob


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

the bb7. all the weight your adding is on the bike, not the wheels. It'll be the same as buying a pair of brakes for a 180 pound person vs a 230 pound person. BB7 has both covered just fine, even with the 160mm rotors.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> the bb7. all the weight your adding is on the bike, not the wheels. It'll be the same as buying a pair of brakes for a 180 pound person vs a 230 pound person. BB7 has both covered just fine, even with the 160mm rotors.


OK, thanks. But do you think the faster cooling set would be better or no worth it?

I am also having a problem mounting my battery packs. I made custom packs to fit the bike but their a PITA but to make and mount. And I'm not crazy how they look. So I was wondering if anyone knows of a strong rack that I can modify for the packs to hang from. Or maybe a good saddle bag setup. The 2 packs are 30 lbs.

Thanks


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Another really good option for brakes are the Shimano XT. They are hydraulic and one of the best brakes around. They run about $220 for both front and rear.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

blown240 said:


> Another really good option for brakes are the Shimano XT. They are hydraulic and one of the best brakes around. They run about $220 for both front and rear.


Yeah I agree and I did consider. The problem is dealing with the motor cutoff switches that are built into the brake handles on an E-bike. Guys do use hydraulic brakes but they design their own cutoff switches.

I did however, see a cool setup that was hydraulic but cable operated. The master cylinders were mounted on the brake it's self so I would use my E-handles and have Hydrulic brakes. But $265 a set was more then I wanted to pay.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Go4itfatty said:


> Tires - I am really interested in trying theses at that price
> 2PAK Sunlite Vee Crusher 26"x 3 5" Wire Bead Fat Bike Tires Black Fit Speedster
> 
> Now I am trying to decide on my brakes to stop this beast.
> ...


Those tires are known for throwing small rocks up in the air, including onto rider's backs. Apparently the ting ting ting of them landing on your bike, and your back, will drive you nuts.

With e-bike, I'd be looking at rotors larger than 160, to make sure you can arrest the momentum and fight the motor in the unlikely event you need to. With e-bike, you're also typically getting more of that extra weight on the back. So if you're doing different brakes or rotor size (front vs. rear), it may not be the typical advice of putting the larger rotor or stronger brake on the front. Think cargo bike, as the front/rear balance is different. Or just go 180mm on both. Rotors are standard ISO mount. Brakes may or may not come with the standard adapters for front/rear mounting.

BB7s are good, some work to get setup perfect, and you'll be adjusting them regularly.

For easy of installation, and setup and ongoing use, and to be sure of always having at last one great brake, I'd be making one of your brakes a TRP Spyke. 
TRP
This is most likely the brake that will have the greatest time between maintenance. I'd also go for the 180mm not the 160mm. 
(confession: they're on my to-buy list, when I have spare cash)

You'll have to check out which mechanical MTB levers have been easily modified for a cutoff switch. I have Avid Speed Dial Levers because I think I need cool levers, and I think they stand a good chances of being modded to take cut-off switches. Note that most people who get Speed Dial levers report that they end using them at the setting that's the same as the fixed pull levers. I got them anyways.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I decided to go "Street"! I honestly wasn't digging the fat tires in the woods.
I might try it again later with some "real" tires.
I'm still on the fence with the riser bars vs straight bars.

34.6 lbs as it set now

Still planning on adding a front derailleur .... I have to make a cable mount.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Those tires are known for throwing small rocks up in the air, including onto rider's backs. Apparently the ting ting ting of them landing on your bike, and your back, will drive you nuts.
> 
> With e-bike, I'd be looking at rotors larger than 160, to make sure you can arrest the momentum and fight the motor in the unlikely event you need to. With e-bike, you're also typically getting more of that extra weight on the back. So if you're doing different brakes or rotor size (front vs. rear), it may not be the typical advice of putting the larger rotor or stronger brake on the front. Think cargo bike, as the front/rear balance is different. Or just go 180mm on both. Rotors are standard ISO mount. Brakes may or may not come with the standard adapters for front/rear mounting.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your comments. The tires (which arrived about 30 minutes ago) are the same thread design and look exactly like the Vee Speedster. This was indicated by the seller when I purchased them. They are supposed to be manufactured by Vee for SunLite but the only name on the tires is Vee Tire Company. And surprisingly no where on them is a SunLite name or logo. I wish I had a scale that could weigh them cause they are really light.

Yeah, I kind of wanted to go bigger then 160mm but not knowing anything about dick mounting I was worried if I could get brackets and where. I did order the AVID BB7 160mm with the HS-1 Heat shedding rotors.

My motor adds 8.5 lbs and is a mid-drive (it replaces the crank assembly). So the weight is centered on the bike. I was going to put my battery packs centered on the bike as well. But it's just to much of a PITA to build the casing for them to fit there. So I bought a fat tire bike rack that I will mod to hold the packs on the read tire area. So yes that will add 30 lbs to the back tire.

My other bikes are similar weight and use rim brakes front and back and they do fine. So I'm hoping these disk brakes should be at least as good.

Fat Tire Bike Rear Rack Axiom 26" Fits Disc Brake Up to 5" Tire New | eBay


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Got the bearings and freewheel. The freewheel does not wobble and is of different construction with a large black 1st gear ring and the spanner nut fasteners being completely different. Gears 5-6 clank back and forth, can't make up their mind which one they want to be in. Anyone else have this issue? 
A new shifter, freewheel, chain and derailleur is probably the route I need to take anyway so I'm not going to get wrapped around the axle on this issue. Until then I'll adjust the derailleur to see if I can get it to work better.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

Ok so I'm trying to figure out this whole sealed bb thing if I look for the vp bc63 does it come with to correct spindal and I just slap on the old crankset. Or do I have to try and use the one the dolo came with. Of all the work I've done on bikes I've never changed anything down there I've taken stuff apart and replaced whatever was there on previous bikes but I've never dealt with the sealed units. 

I also plan on putting a double or triple crankset will that make a difference with the chain clearance.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The cartridge bottom bracket that is available (origin8 100x164mm) barely clears crankarm/chainstay clearance with a truvative 5d crankset. I don't know if other cranksets will be more narrow or not. Comparing a couple that I have (shimano alivio and suntour XCR), it looks like they have less clearance so probably won't work as well. Trying to put the stock crankset on the origin 8 bottom bracket definately won't work. Far too narrow. Also, because the origin 8 cartridge bearing has a shorter axle than the stock axle, you'll have to use the outermost chainring location or your chainline will be too far inward. this will severely limit the available low-end gearing to a 30T raceface narrow-wide. It's a good chainring, but 30T is still pretty big for a fatbike with a 28T rear cog.

Using the stock axle with a YST sealed cup (search for it on amazon) will allow you to put on a triple crankset. The small chainring location lines up with the stock chainline location. You can manually use the 2nd chainring, but if you try to use the 3rd chainring, your chainline will be pretty far out. Still usable for high speed, but not lower speeds.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

Thanks I guess the yst is the way I'll go. Now as far as the freewheel I'm straying away from the shimano 14 to 34 set up because of not having that 28 t. But I saw a few sunrace 8 speed that looked geared nice. Is there any know problems in changing the set up from 7 to 8 and using an 8 speed shifter.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

how about shimano mf-HG37? will that replace the stock on the dolo, malus and hitch? gears are 13-28t...
FOR 3/32" CHAINS
TEETH:13-15-17-19-21-24-28


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Triple Mtb chain-ring:
Pretty much essential for trail riding, or have hills, or other than packed snow on the flat or packed sand on the flat.
22-32-42T, typically manually selected by moving the chain to the 22T for hills/trails/snow/sand or 32T for road.
Then if you find yourself changing a lot, then look to adding a front derailer.


saw canoe post this. which sets will fit the dolo etc? what size do i look for? do you have to dimple the frame? thanks


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Did a 10 mile run after work today .... def like the flat bars better for street.
Removed the white decals & went with some flat black flames. They are fairly subtle, I may need to make them bigger. Def more rat rod'ish though.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

When looking at changing the freewheel, consider WHY are you changing the freewheel.

If you consider where the stock gears place on a Gear Inch chart for ~30" fat bike tires, you can make an estimate what riding effort you'd get from what improvement in Gear Inches. Then you can see which front/gear combos provide what Gear inches.

The Alpine gearing of the 32T or 34T megaranges are typically not a good choice for a fat bike as it's a granny gear, gained at the expense of the 28T. So you've got a granny/bailout gear, but you've lost a gear you'd likely use and would be of use in having a range of usable gears. Which is why a custom stack of a megarange is popular, and why the 8-speed freewheels ending in 34T are looking good. 
There are links on the first post.

Of more immediate use, is to get away from the stock 36T front, and get more bang for your pedalling effort with a *32T front*. Running the stock freewheel with a 32T front is much like trading the gear on the high end for another gear on the low end. Which makes it pretty good for cruising around and better on hills. And there's no gap in your selectable gears.

Or more radical, a *22T front*. You can see that a 22T front and a stock 28T improves the stock 36x28 from ~37.5 GI all the way down to ~22.5 GI. Compared to a 10 speed cassette's gear spacing, it's *as though you've got four lower gears from a stock Dolo*. If the lowest was *a 34T*, that improves it to ~19 GI, better, but not earth shattering, approximately *one gear better*, IF you've also kept the 28T. Otherwise you've done a tradesies, and if you've got rear hills, or snow or mud to blow through, you may regret not having that choice available.

Surprise, the 22T and 32T of the mountain triple give you both of those.

If you want the extra of the 34T bottom, there are 34T 8 speed freewheels, even if you're just using seven of the gears with the stock 7 speed derailer, that can give you that with a full progression of gears (no gap), without having to mod an earlier 34T megarange (but that is fun).


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

canoe, so, what brand or set do you suggest for the triple crank set where I can just derail the front sprocket with my hand that will fit the dolo etc.?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Using the stock axle with a YST sealed cup (search for it on amazon) will allow you to put on a triple crankset. The small chainring location lines up with the stock chainline location. You can manually use the 2nd chainring, but if you try to use the 3rd chainring, your chainline will be pretty far out. Still usable for high speed, but not lower speeds.


I came to the same conclusion last night after looking at an AutoCad drawing of a high end BB with it's acceptable frame dimensions and then taking measurements of my Hitch, comparing them, and it became obvious that the crank will hit the chain stays. The Dolo / Hitch axle is a monster and the bike is not slim by any means.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> how about shimano mf-HG37? will that replace the stock on the dolo, malus and hitch? gears are 13-28t...
> FOR 3/32" CHAINS
> TEETH:13-15-17-19-21-24-28


I am eyeballing the DNP freewheel, made in Taiwan. They have a factories in Shenzhen (Hitch) and Tianjin (Dolo). The freewheels on the Hitch Dolo are G Falcon.
Need an FR-1.2 to install, the FR-1 will not work.
The nickel plating will make shifts smooth as silk.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> canoe, so, what brand or set do you suggest for the triple crank set where I can just derail the front sprocket with my hand that will fit the dolo etc.?


I don't have one I can point to. I went to a local bike repair/recycle co-op and searched through their used parts bins until I found a Shimano MTB 22/32/42T set that worked. You need:

the crank arms to clear the chainstays, AND, 
for your feet (heels) to clear the chainstays when you pedal.
Take a look at the chainstay measurements, original vs. newer Dolo: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-2.html#post11052135

Others have posted current models of cranks that worked. Try google 'mtbr.com fatbike dolo wild mtb 42 32 22 triple'


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

Does anyone have a model number for the earlier megarange that you can take apart?


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Still have two of these left...










Sealed bearings, stainless cups, 4130 heat treated spindle stock length Dolomite sq. taper, 8mm tapped ends, comes with threaded studs and serrated lock nuts. Spindle is Cerakote black.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dixsdoks said:


> Does anyone have a model number for the earlier megarange that you can take apart?


Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. You have to check photos of the back of the freewheel to ensure it's the original version of a model. From the first post of this thread, this link http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11157937

And, the online listing of the part may include photos of the original part, not the new version of the part, so you have to contact the seller and ensure which type it is. They may not understand what you're talking about, so expect to supply them with photos of each type, so they can check their stock. Occasionally, you get a source where they're tired of the inquiries (or returns), so they've posted a photo of the back showing that it's the new type.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Or avoid the hassle of trying to build one and just buy the 13-32T sunrace. Grab an 8-speed shifter ($10 on ebay), the vuelta crankset and you're good. Keeps the stock derailure and chain. Just don't try to use the 44T chainring.
http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-13-32-Freewheel-Chrome/dp/B001GSQL6W
Amazon.com : Shimano ST-EF51(LL)4A Shift/Brake Rear (Black, 8 Speed) : Bike Brakes : Sports & Outdoors
http://www.amazon.com/Vuelta-815004...id=1431030262&sr=1-1&keywords=vuelta+crankset

In reality, the stock shifter and freewheel will work for a litle while, and those can get warranty replacement from pacific quickly. I would change out the crankset though for better low end grunt.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said!

(thank you - you saved me looking for where you'd explained that before)

And as explained before, while technically the Sunrace isn't as nice or as long wearing as the Shimanos, it's a reasonably close second, and it works out of the box. Get a second one if you're worried about it wearing out. 
And as you can see from the Gear Inch numbers, don't panic if you get a 32T vs. 34T, just make sure it has nice progression (NOT Alpine/gapped like the megarange).


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

I said I was gonna do the sunrace before but then I start reading and second guessing myself. Just gonna bite the bullet and order it now with an 8 speed shifter and that's that. Thanks for all the input guys!

Just out of curiosity has anyone tried to obtain or use or know anything about the front derailuer set up on the Vinson? Think it might work on the Dolo? I know people in this thread in the past have asked about a front setup. (I've only made it to page 32 of this thread lol). Apparently it attaches somewhere to the bb. Sooo shouldn't it work on the Dolo?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It's in here, somewhere. It does work, but it costs about $80 to $100.

Personally, if I wanted a front derailure, I'd probably start looking at a new bike. The gearing range for a 13-32T freewheel in back is pretty wide. With a well selected front ring (I have a 28T chainring), you don't need to shift up front. Good for trails and road speeds up to 17mph. If I'm trying to go faster than that, why the hell am I on a fat bike.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

Just picked up a set of take off Vee mission tires what tubes should I look at to drop some weight from the stock tubes?


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

watts888 said:


> It's in here, somewhere. It does work, but it costs about $80 to $100.
> 
> Personally, if I wanted a front derailure, I'd probably start looking at a new bike. The gearing range for a 13-32T freewheel in back is pretty wide. With a well selected front ring (I have a 28T chainring), you don't need to shift up front. Good for trails and road speeds up to 17mph. If I'm trying to go faster than that, why the hell am I on a fat bike.


 Thing is I ride trails and off road by me but I like to bus it up to nyc and ride around the city with it too. So the shifting up front will come in handy big time. And I would love to buy a new bike but my wife might feel different about that lol. I take things apart and put it back to gether so often she doesn't notice the upgrades just figures its repairs or maintnce lol. Some times you do what ya gotta do!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dixsdoks said:


> ... So the shifting up front will come in handy big time. ...


Why?
Have you tried the stock bike and seen which gears you actually use?
What are their gear inches?
Have you done the same for your new tires & tubes (easier to roll)?

If there's gears at the top end that you'll never use, why would you have a shifter up front to allow you to get more gears up where you'd never use them?

Then, what ring up front gives you what gear inches from the stock freewheel? And the same for a 13-32T Sunrace?
With a front ring that places the 13T at the top end of the gear inches you'd ever want, where does the 32T fall. Will you be on hills where you want lower gear inches than that placement of the 32T?

Buying and installing stuff before you know what you need is great way to spend time and money, but ...

The MTB triple is the easy way out. No work. Riding on flat, put in on 32T. Riding on terrain, put it on 22T. Or figure it out and use a single on the front.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

PacBike sent me another new freewheel to replace the one that wobbled. The new one has a black rear cog. Also, the new one is .060" higher so this means I need to adjust the derailleur. I wouldn't have noticed this hadn't I placed them side by side. I don't know why they do this stuff without a heads up.

Note the support tines on the rear cog angled in the opposite direction.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> Here are pictures of the new freewheel vs the old one. The new one has a black rear cog. Also, the new one is .060" higher so this means I need to adjust the derailleur. I wouldn't have noticed this hadn't I placed them side by side. I don't know why they do this stuff without a heads up.
> Note the support tines on the rear cog angled in the opposite direction.


You don't specify what the actual freewheel is for "new freewheel" and for "the old one": = not very useful. 
(in this specific case, when you use those terms without specifying what those freewheels actually are, it might mislead people who are looking for the new vs. old versions of the Shimano Megarange models)

And when you reference something that is specific to the bike you have, but don't let people know which bike you're referring to, as in, Dolo vs Hitch. 

You can edit your posts on MTBR, so you can go back and identify your bike and the parts, so the time you've put into your posts can be much more useful for people.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dixsdoks said:


> ... So the shifting up front will come in handy big time. ...





watts888 said:


> ... The gearing range for a 13-32T freewheel in back is pretty wide. With a well selected front ring (I have a 28T chainring), you don't need to shift up front...


And with 8 speeds vs. 7, you have a much nicer progression, and without the gap of the megaranges.

Here's a chart that compares the range and placement for that 8 speed (green sections), so people can see how (and what) an 8 speed can provide very well, with a single front.
The red star beside the green section shows values for single front rings side by side.
The green section just above that, shows the 13-32T with the 22-32-42T Mtb triple (and watts888's 28T front ring).
The red circles show what you wouldn't get if you're using a 7 speed shifter.
But most people want a trigger shifter anyways, so get an 8 speed one. 
The red lines in the Megarange section show the gap between 1st and 2nd that you get with an "Alpine" progression in the gearing. 
The violet oval shows the tiny difference between the lowest gear being 34T vs. 32T. 
Comparing to the very first gear line (stock Dolo), you can see how the 28T x 13-32T covers from between the Dolo's 5th and 6th gear, all the way down to its lowest, and then adds three gears below that, down to ~26 gear inches.

Going with a 26T front, you get the range of the five lowest Dolo gears, plus three lower, down to ~24 gear inches.

So before you start spending money and changing parts out, compare all of that to what gears you actually use on your stock Dolo...

And compare to the Fat Bike popular 10 speed 30T x 11-36T that we see on a number of stock bikes with cassettes.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

H


chopsmitty said:


> Still have two of these left...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 How much are you lookin to get for it


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

I posted pics of my wife's dolo. I bought a vinson and passed the dolo to her. The vinson has a BB mounted FD. I bought an old Deore xt FD that mount on BB off ebay for $15. It works with no problems.... engages all rings with no problems.... I also gave her my crank and BB too... It does fit, but it is close. She hasn't had any problems riding it...(no heels on chainstays). 

The origin 8 100x164mm BB with a vuelta mtb crankset can be had for about $60 total. Check pics....


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

That is dam close for chainstay clearance. Good to see it works, just need to find cheap chainrings with an extra 5mm offset.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Llouie said:


> I posted pics of my wife's dolo. .... I also gave her my crank and BB too... It does fit, but it is close. She hasn't had any problems riding it...(no heels on chainstays). The origin 8 100x164mm BB with a vuelta mtb crankset can be had for about $60 total. Check pics....


Is that an early or late Dolo frame?

They have different chainstay clearances. As in, Dolo tread/q-factor, crank-to-chainstay clearances


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

Canoe said:


> Is that an early or late Dolo frame?
> 
> They have different chainstay clearances. As in, Dolo tread/q-factor, crank-to-chainstay clearances


I just measured wheelbase and would have to say that it is a later model dolo. The tight chainstay clearance is because of the vinson BB. The origin8's 100x164mm BB axle is 8mm longer than the stock vinson one. I put the origin8 on my vinson and was able to put on a lower q-factor crank. Vuelta has entry level mtb cranks on ebay for under $30. The stock crank on the vinson is basically same crank. There are a handful of different brands of those cranks selling new at that price. Some have chainring bolts, some are riveted.


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## Llouie (Dec 21, 2014)

Bottom line is you can upgrade to a sealed BB, get new triple crank, front shifter, BB mounted front der. for under $100. You will have a triple set-up that actually works. No manual hand changing for gears up front.... A serviceable / replaceable BB... (That was the most important factor for me). Once that axle gets worn or bent because it is so long.... Right now those origin8 100x164mm BB are $17.99 or so (google). I see that price only going up so I bought 2.

The hardest part of the mod for me was figuring out how to keep FD cables in place for shifting. After that it's just riding it now like any other mtb with gears.

Lightening the bike and trying to get a massive cog in the back becomes a non-issue when you have a triple. If you are on hilly, loose gravel trails a 32-34t is gravy with a 22/32/42 set-up.


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## RickyRick (Dec 2, 2013)

Just bought a Hitch after following this forum for a bit. Look forward to riding it more and coming back here for upgrades and information, you guys are great!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

O.K. 
Anyone with a *stock Hitch* feel up to making accurate measurements for me to add to 
Dolo tread/q-factor, crank-to-chainstay clearances

And if you're really ambitious, you can start on providing the same as
Dolo measurements


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Walmart finally ran out of Dolo's but I still see them in Academy. 
78% of the Chinese fat bikes are sold in Asia and Latin America, primarily with electric motors.

An electric Hitch is now available at Walmart 







Big Cat E-Bykes Men's Electric Fat Cat All Terrain Mountain Bike - Walmart.com


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> Walmart finally ran out of Dolo's...


Except for a few rare stores that chose to bring them into their location, Walmart didn't stock Dolos. Ordered Dolos shipped from a Pacific warehouse. So either Walmart decided to no longer offer them, or Pacific is out of stock, as they have been before.

Be interesting to see if Reno Walmarts are stocking them again for Burning Man.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The Dolo's were shipped straight from Tianjin to Houston's Walmart warehouse. The Hitch is shipped from Shenzhen to PacBike's Vacaville warehouse. So Walmart is just a retail portal for the Hitch, they don't want to be involved in the supply chain anymore.

The remaining few Dolo's will trickle into the smaller retail outlets but Walmart is out of the picture.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> The Dolo's were shipped straight from Tianjin to Houston's Walmart warehouse...


Some may have been. I have no knowledge of that.

All of the Dolo purchases I've been shown, including my own, were shipped direct from the Pacific warehouse in CA. Some others said theirs came from a different Pacific warehouse.

We don't know if the Dolo will be in stock at Walmart again or not, but we have seen it out of stock at Walmart a number of times. At this time, it's still showing on their web site, as it did all the other times it was out of stock. Time will tell. Let us know if the Dolo disappears from the Walmart web site.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

dolomite not showing up on my walmart search but the hitch is


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> dolomite not showing up on my walmart search but the hitch is


Both show in mine, same as this morning. Dolomite "out of stock", same as all the other times it was out of stock.

New that I didn't see this morning, at their recent price: 

*Hitch with a free Schwinn helmet*. 
26" Mongoose Hitch Men's All-Terrain Fat Tire Bike and Bonus Helmet - Walmart.com
There's also the same special for the Massif 
20" Mongoose Massif Boys' All-Terrain Fat Tire Mountain Bike and Bonus Helmet - Walmart.com
and the Beast. 
26" Mongoose Beast Men's All-Terrain Fat Tire Mountain and Bonus Helmet - Walmart.com
And for a 3" tire 20" boys bike "Kent Boys' Rockblaster".


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

mine said cant order, cant ship and cant pick up


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

N


ShredMaster said:


> I have the stock tires with ZERO miles on them. Took them off immediately....
> 72tpi Folding Bead Mission Command 4.0" Tubeless Ready
> 
> I also have a set of 120tpi Snow Shoes Folding Bead 4.5" Tubeless Ready Silica Compound with less than 10 (snow) miles on them. Still look new.
> ...


shredMaster hooked me up with his Vee mission Comand that were brandy new off his Vinson at a more than reasonable price!!! had them out to me in 2 days and hooked me up with a link to get a great deal on SL tubes. I can't thank you enough dude
You rock!

Anyone looking to save money on upgrade parts don't hesitate to ask around on this or other threads. I did and it worked out pretty sweet.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

AZINGER said:


> Walmart finally ran out of Dolo's but I still see them in Academy.
> 78% of the Chinese fat bikes are sold in Asia and Latin America, primarily with electric motors.
> 
> An electric Hitch is now available at Walmart
> ...


Honestly for the price of the fat cat I think I'd be more inclined to try one of these.

https://www.fattirebikeparts.com/index.php/xtreme-fat-tire-racing-bikes/fat-tire-e-bikes


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> mine said cant order, cant ship and cant pick up


ah
That's what "out of stock" means...

We'll see if it comes back or not. Might be gone and they haven't gotten around to cleaning up their site yet. But it is the same as all the other times it's bee out of stock.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dixsdoks said:


> Honestly for the price of the fat cat I think I'd be more inclined to try one of these.
> https://www.fattirebikeparts.com/index.php/xtreme-fat-tire-racing-bikes/fat-tire-e-bikes


I wouldn't. 
No mention of which Lithium ion chemistry is used, nor which cell is used. Could be new or old tech. 
Mode of e-drive. Mentions throttle, which is the cheap way of doing it. Has a control pad (low/medium/high) on the bar too, but doesn't actually say that they do pedal assist, let alone by which method. Photo is too fuzzy to see what it controls. 
No mention of which type of speed sensor on the motor (another thing typically provided in quality setups).
These are somethings that quality e-bike setups brag about. Why so quiet... 
If you go through all of the bike details, you might find that info, but I couldn't.

To me, IMHO, it appears to be done on the cheap, but at a mid-range price.


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

I see what you saying. I watched the video they had and it seamed linteresting setting up the bike like they do. My brother lives in Miami so I got him going to th demo they are doing on the beach to get more info on it and get some pics or video. See what he can dig up


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

If anyone's looking for a new Vinson 
$524.99 shipped
Flash Sale. Only 6 hours.

Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com


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## chopsmitty (Dec 11, 2012)

Dixsdoks said:


> H
> How much are you lookin to get for it


Sorry, all sold out. Just took two orders. My run of 14 pcs has come to an end.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

hitch is 229 at walmart now. yoyo


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> hitch is 229 at walmart now. yoyo


Thanks for the heads up, I'll call Wally tomorrow to get a $20 refund. They obviously have a pricing algorithm, i.e. if X amount of bikes are not sold within X amount of days then down comes the price. Of course my posts aren't exactly helping sales either.
Last month they went for 212, didn't pull the trigger.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> hitch is 229 at walmart now. yoyo


hey!
Unlike yesterday when they dropped the Hitch price but the bike plus helmet was still $249, now the bike plus helmet deal has also been lowered to the $229 price!

Maybe you can get the price drop and a helmet?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

So I go to Wally today to quality audit freewheels.

*All* of the Falcon freewheels wobbled, whether it Mongoose or Huffy. This could be an issue with the hub freewheel mounting threads as well.

Oddly enough, a $129 MTBike made by Kent - Genesis V2100, has better components than my Hitch.
. Jax disc brakes and rotors like the Dolo
. Shimano MF TZ21 freewheel - NO WOBBLE, the bane of my Hitch(s).
. Shimano Tourney ST EF40 trigger shifters, left and right

I could buy this bike, part it out on ebay and make money.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Go4itfatty said:


> ...Yeah, I kind of wanted to go bigger then 160mm but not knowing anything about dick mounting I was worried if I could get brackets and where. I did order the AVID BB7 160mm with the HS-1 Heat shedding rotors. ...
> My other bikes are similar weight and use rim brakes front and back and they do fine. So I'm hoping these disk brakes should be at least as good...


For those of you considering upgrading your brakes and are wondering which size of rotor you should have for a fat bike, or for our heavy budget fat bikes, or one with an e-bike setup added, or of you're a clyde, or considering using your bike for the sport of fat bike riding, you should take a look at this thread, which includes discussion of why larger rotor/disc sizes are of benefit (and a necessity for some uses) with the extra rotational weight - hence momentum - of fat bike wheels, and the extra leverage our total weight has against tall wheels (~30").

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbike-braking-vs-skinny-tire-braking-970023.html


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## Dixsdoks (May 6, 2015)

Ok so I went a little crazy this week and picked up a bunch of stuff for my dolo. Everything went on smooth and the bike runs great. Except I'm having an issue with the FD. Mounted it in place but the problem is it doesn't reach the chain rings. I figured with it mounting an the bb instead of the down tube it would bring it out far enough. But I was wrong. The spindle is just to long. Anyone have any ideas on solving this. 

2014 Mongoose Dolomite 26 x 4 fat tire bike. (1st Release)

Drive train;

BB:
YST sealed cups & bearings
Shimano XTR FD-M960 dérailleur (BB) e-type mount
Shimano Altus M311 3 ring crank 22-32-42

Rear:
Sunrace 8 speed Megadrive 13t - 34t freewheel 

Wheels:
Vee rubber Misson Command tires
Q tubes super light tubes
Presta valve savers

Bars and Headset:
Hylix carbon fiber Intergrated bar and stem
Carbon fiber risers
Shimano Acera SLM360 3 x 8 shifters
Suntour ergo grips

Brakes:
Tektro Orion carbon fiber hydraulic disk brakes
180 Front
160 Rear
Is to pm 180 front brake mount

Seat and seat post:
Suntour Cloud 9 padded & vented saddle
28.6 to 27.2 seat post shim

Extras:
Diamond back post mount qr bike rack
Bottle cage


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

You could try with the three links near the bottom of the first post. 
There are others through the thread too.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

The Freewheel failed on the hitch yesterday .... I was in the woods & had to walk the last 3 miles back to the truck as it was uphill. 

Cheap bike so this is not much of a surprise really ... I don't think this "old tech" freewheel was ever meant to take the stress that fatbike wheels & tires can put on it during a steep climb. I def "stood" on it a few times on climbs yesterday before it failed. One thing for sure .... Fatbikes will climb anything if you got the legs!

Fun while it lasted ...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

definately worth it for the shimano or sunrace freewheel. You've already swapped shifters. did you get an 8 or 7 speed?


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER: What freewheel tool did you use to remove the Stock hitch freewheel?

The Shimano FR-5 I have doesn't fit


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

the FR-5 is a cassette tool. You need the freewheel tool.
I used the FR-1 tool. It is hit or miss if it works on the stock falcon freewheel, but it works on all the other freewheels, so I figured it was worth it to try. If it didn't work, then I'd buy the correct one. It has shorter spline height, so not as much material to grab. It worked on mine, but my wheels were relatively new when I used it and not torqued down super hard. they did have about 3-4 hard trail rides though. I've also included the link for the falcon tool.

http://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-F...837123&sr=8-1&keywords=freewheel+removal+tool
Amazon.com : Park Tool FR-7 Freewheel Remover for Falcon Brand : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

further idea. If your freewheel is toast, remove the gears and just use a pipe wrench.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

watts888 said:


> the FR-5 is a cassette tool. You need the freewheel tool.
> I used the FR-1 tool. It is hit or miss if it works on the stock falcon freewheel, but it works on all the other freewheels, so I figured it was worth it to try. If it didn't work, then I'd buy the correct one. It has shorter spline height, so not as much material to grab. It worked on mine, but my wheels were relatively new when I used it and not torqued down super hard. they did have about 3-4 hard trail rides though. I've also included the link for the falcon tool.
> 
> Amazon.com : Park Tool FR-1 Freewheel Remover for Shimano Freewheels : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors
> Amazon.com : Park Tool FR-7 Freewheel Remover for Falcon Brand : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors


Gezz ..duh .. I knew the FR-5 was a cassette tool (face palm)

Yeah .. the old freewheel is toast but I would like to have the tool anyway.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> AZINGER: What freewheel tool did you use to remove the Stock hitch freewheel?
> 
> The Shimano FR-5 I have doesn't fit


I use a FR 1.2 which is deeper than the FR 1 which allows the user to not have to take off the nuts on the axle when removing the freewheel. I put the tool in my vice, mount the wheel and it spins off easily.

But I found the following problems:

The Falcon freewheel mounting threads are not concentric with the cogs. 
The wheel itself is not concentric due to an improper weld seam. 
The threaded part of the axle is not concentric to the axle and so it wobbles, amplifying the freewheel wobble. 

So I talked to PacBike and they told me that they would send me a new wheel but when they checked their inventory, no wheels in stock, and since they can't get any replacements due to the dock workers strike they told me to take it back.
I suggest you do the same, it's not worth the headache.

But I am looking at bikes on Craigslist and eBay, spotting the occasional fat bike for sale, waiting for someone hard up for cash.

Here's a good deal if I wanted to splurge, this guy will end up eating $1500. 
Salsa Beargrease Carbon Fat Bike 2014 M


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

AZINGER said:


> I use a FR 1.2 which is deeper than the FR 1 which allows the user to not have to take off the nuts on the axle when removing the freewheel. I put the tool in my vice, mount the wheel and it spins off easily.
> 
> But I found the following problems:
> 
> ...


My Hitch freewheel didn't wobble ... it was just a POS & broke


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Maybe you can call PacBike for another Falcon freewheel, those are in stock. The new ones look like the Shimano with the black cog. Free is good.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

AZINGER said:


> Maybe you can call PacBike for another Falcon freewheel, those are in stock. The new ones look like the Shimano with the black cog. Free is good.


Free is good until you get tired of walking home... 

Seems like the Hitch falls back in line with the dept. store bike reputation. Hope it's just a bad initial batch, and they'll get the mftr in line fast.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

but a free piece of poo, is still poo. The amount of torque these bikes take will just brake it again. I vote for the $15 shimano or sunrace freewheel. I've got the sunrace, and it works. Not as good as the shimano, but it has the gear range I want.


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

Not getting another Falcon ... Walking back to the truck sux ... prob. Megarange


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Watch out that the 34T megarange is Alpine. Big gap, and right where many like to have that 28T. The rep of the other non-Shimanos are that they won't last as long as a Shimano, but choose wisely and they'll last plenty long for the cost: you get home and you get choices that don't have that Alpine gearing gap.

If you go eight-speed, just watch out if you are a clyde, or like to punch it. The eight-speed's extra leverage on the inboard freewheel bearings has a history of resulting in more axle breakage incidents (hence the move to freehubs and cassettes, with a more outboard bearing).


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## DarknutMike (Jun 2, 2013)

I picked up a megarange at my local Bshop for $9.00 ... Seems fine riding around the parking lot at work. ... will see how I like it after I hit the woods.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

DarknutMike said:


> I picked up a megarange at my local Bshop for $9.00 ... Seems fine riding around the parking lot at work. ... will see how I like it after I hit the woods.


Let us know how it turns out. I know that Shimano doesn't do the wobble like the Falcon.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

I apologize in advance, but trying to help a friend and can't read though the whole thread at the moment.

Will these all mount up without any issues?

Shimano Acera M360 SGS derailleur:

Shimano Acera M360 SGS Rear Derailleur Silver

Shimano Altus SL-M310 rapid fire shifter 7 speed:

Shimano Altus SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifter - Right, 7-Speed

Shimano MegaRange 14-34 freewheel:

Shimano Tourney MF-TZ31 7-speed Megarange Freewheel, 14-34

KMC X8.93 6/7/8 speed chain:

KMC X8.93 Chain w/ Missing Link 6/7/8 Speed Each Silver / Gray

I'm assuming I will need to get shifter cable and housing separately or do these normally come with derailleurs and shifters?

Would I be better of with this Altus 7 speed derailleur, both are long cage if I'm not mistaken which should be fine for 36T front and 14-34T on the back?

Shimano Altus RD-M280 Rear Derailleur -7-/8-Speed, SGS, Direct Mount

We are planning to put on Q-tubes to save some weight. Again, I'm just assuming these will be fine on a 100mm rim with ChaoYang 4.0" tires (from a Bigfoot 6.3)? We weighted those tires and they are right at 1450g each. I calculated weight saving of almost 8lbs from stock tires and tubes!!

Q-Tubes 26" x 2.4-2.75" SCHRADER Valve Tube

Bike already comes with Clarks hydraulic brakes with rotors, carbon handlebar and upgraded stem, saddle and pedals. Should be one sweet Dolomite once done. 

Thanks again.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The stuff you list will work, and will be an improvement over stock. Since you're taking all this stuff off, I'd go ahead and spend a litle more money and go with an 8-speed setup (different freewheel and shifter). You just need to add a small washer to the axle on the freewheel side for a litle extra frame clearance (about 1mm). I did it, works fine. Is there a reason you really want the 14-34 megarange? That last gear jump is insane and will always feel wierd when you shift into it. I'd recommend the 14-28 (7 or 8-speed) shimano or the 13-32 sunrace freewheel (8-speed). And the altus vs. acera isn't much different. I would spend a litle extra for an alivio or deore if you plan on keeping the bike in the long run.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

watts888 said:


> The stuff you list will work, and will be an improvement over stock. Since you're taking all this stuff off, I'd go ahead and spend a litle more money and go with an 8-speed setup (different freewheel and shifter). You just need to add a small washer to the axle on the freewheel side for a litle extra frame clearance (about 1mm). I did it, works fine. Is there a reason you really want the 14-34 megarange? That last gear jump is insane and will always feel wierd when you shift into it. I'd recommend the 14-28 (7 or 8-speed) shimano or the 13-32 sunrace freewheel (8-speed). And the altus vs. acera isn't much different. I would spend a litle extra for an alivio or deore if you plan on keeping the bike in the long run.


So would a 9 speed rear mech work fine with 8 speed shifter and freewheel? Would this Alivio/Acera combo below be a worthwhile upgrade from the Acera/Altus for $20 more?

Shimano Alivio RD-M430 Rear Derailleur - 9-Speed, Black

Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifter - Right, 8-Speed

The reason for the MegaRange was to get lower climbing gear, as I don't think we will be swapping the 36T unless changing crank with a smaller chaining is better approach to this, but that would also mean loosing some speed on flats with 14 on the back and lets say 30 or 32 up front.

That being said I guess there is not that much difference between 32 and 34T on the back. Would you recommend 13-32 Sunrace freewheel over 13-34 Sunrace? 13-34 Sunrace goes from 28 to 34 and Shimano goes from 24 to 34.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Here's the Ironhorse Porter at Sears. They're also selling fat tires, tubes, forks, fenders, BB's and cranksets. Quite a selection I haven't seen elsewhere. (Academy is still selling the venerable Dolomite).


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Oh how the mighty have fallen
2004 Iron Horse Porter Pro - New and Used Bike Value


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Oh how the mighty have fallen
> 2004 Iron Horse Porter Pro - New and Used Bike Value


2004 is when the last of the US bike companies went out of business. Dorel kept the names and can use them however they please. It's really quite a shame. But there is hope, I'm beginning to see a lot of interest on Craigslist and eBay for the pre-Chinese bikes, especially the older 1990's, full suspension bikes like Gary Fisher and Cannondale.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kryten said:


> ...
> The reason for the MegaRange was to get lower climbing gear, as I don't think we will be swapping the 36T unless changing crank with a smaller chaining is better approach to this, but that would also mean loosing some speed on flats with 14 on the back and lets say 30 or 32 up front.
> 
> That being said I guess there is not that much difference between 32 and 34T on the back. Would you recommend 13-32 Sunrace freewheel over 13-34 Sunrace? 13-34 Sunrace goes from 28 to 34 and Shimano goes from 24 to 34.


Time to stop guessing. 
First, which gears on the stock bike give you what pedaling result. What gears do you use or not use. On which end do you want more, and how much more.

Then you need to read the post at the link below, noting the very top line in the attached chart, and the Gear inches that the stock gearing gives you.

Then you can scale your gearing needs in Gear Inches, with the chart showing you what front/rear gear combos give you what.

Differences between a 32T and a 34T rear are evident in the chart (I'm not going to tell you - you _need_ to examine the chart). 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-77.html#post11950875


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## Flying Hellish (Jun 5, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> Well, good news, got my Hitch. Bad news, it came without a seat or a post or manual. Seat in stock, manual in stock but the post is on back-order at least 2-4 weeks. Really, no posts and they ship them anyway. Go figure. Guess this is the front end of a poor bike.


Got mine in today and same problem, no seat, seat post or manual. The box had been opened and re-taped. I read your statement the other day and when I saw the box I was already pissed. I took pictures of the box before i opened it. Called Wally world and they said they are going to send me another bike. Guess I have to wait another week and hope that this one will have a seat.


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## Flying Hellish (Jun 5, 2015)

*Hitch*

So knowing it would be a week or so until I get my next Hitch I decided to assemble the bike and since I was going to replace the seat anyway I went and got a post from the local bike shop. I will frankenstein the bike for parts when it comes in and send them back all the crappy stuff. I removed all the logos, I hate advertisements on things I own.


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## Flying Hellish (Jun 5, 2015)

BTW, thank you foolofsand for posting the seat post size in a previous post. I was able to get the proper seat post b/c you posted the size that I could not find elsewhere.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Here's the Logan. It's a Hitch with 24" wheels, size 13". It uses the same parts, has the same BB, hub, wheel well dimensions, all compatible. Weight: 40 pds. It's basically the same size as a 26" MTB. 
The brakes work well and it shifts precisely. The wheels and tires are trued and balanced. The welds are excellent. The axle has been improved with 4 support ribs on the bearing surface. 
Mods: 

YST bearings
Acera click shifter
Shimano MF-HG 37
Hussefelt stem
Shimano Alivio Mega 9 RD-M430


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Logan with the orange removed, and added pink accents


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## Flying Hellish (Jun 5, 2015)

So the new one arrived in the same condition that the first one did. This one came by FedEx while the first was UPS, so I guess this proves it's not the shipping companies. Atleast this one had the seat, seat post and manual.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Ok, been looking and looking and looking. What model triple crankset to buy? M131 or M311 or M361? And cranks, 42-32-22 or 48-38-28? And size, 170mm or 175mm? Want one that fits without adapter or spacers or what and no smashing in the chainstays for crank clearance. Is all this possible? Suggestions for all above. Thanks. Need to finish up mods.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> ... And cranks, 42-32-22 or 48-38-28? ...


this link for how to determine your gearing

You'll have to do some research on bike fitment to determine if you want 165mm, 170mm or 175mm, etc..

As to specific cranks, do a search to see what people have used that fit the chain line.

You might start with checking for links on popular updates in the first post of this thread. Or google.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Flying Hellish said:


> So the new one arrived in the same condition that the first one did. This one came by FedEx while the first was UPS, so I guess this proves it's not the shipping companies. Atleast this one had the seat, seat post and manual.


Weird. My Dolomite, Beast and Hitch's came in perfectly packed boxes, the lids hot glued together, no tape at all. But my Logan box looks like yours, taped with a big hunk torn out. May be the idiots at PacBike are actually checking the bike before they ship it out to the customer or it could be Customs checking for illegal merchandise.
What's funny is the box says DO NOT LAY FLAT, but mine have all been laying flat in the truck when I rec'v them.


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Canoe....done all that...want to know specifically which models have been used for cranks....


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

foolofsand said:


> Canoe....done all that...want to know specifically which models have been used for cranks....


hmmm
don't understand how you can be done deciding on your gearing yet you're looking at 42-32-22 vs 48-38-28, but

You'll have to search to find out who's used which crank successfully on your bike/version: for the chainline clearing the tire and for the cranks/your-heels clearing the chain-stays. When you ask for such things, don't forget to specify which bike you're wanting it for, so people don't have to remember or go back and look, which likely won't happen. You can go back and edit your posts.


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## Mudbeast2 (Jun 14, 2015)

Is the crank set 170 or 175 mm?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Dolomite measurement post
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

just got my malus all done with the shifter, seat, and whatever. but i just put on the shimano altus fc m311 6-7-8 speed triple crank with 28-38-48 sprockets. i was shocked that this went right on, the 28 and 38 sprockets worked great. took like 20 minutes etc and plenty of room for crank not to hit the chainstay. i ordered the 175mm length(stock is 170mm) since i wanted more throw and it works fine. now i have the 14 gears, I just have to move the chain from one sprocket to the other but thats easy. i may add chain later to use the 48 but not needed for me.


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## Mudbeast2 (Jun 14, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Dolomite measurement post
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929


Thanks Canoe!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Sad day, but I sold my dolo over the weekend. I bough it to see how much I like fatbikes, and it was worth it. Ordered a boris last night. 

The only thing I didn't like about the dolo was the excessive seat post I needed (6'5" tall) and that weak rear axle. Once somebody from china starts selling a reasonably priced M10 threaded rod that's heat treated, problem solved.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Sad day, but I sold my dolo over the weekend. I bough it to see how much I like fatbikes, and it was worth it. Ordered a boris last night.
> 
> The only thing I didn't like about the dolo was the excessive seat post I needed (6'5" tall) and that weak rear axle. Once somebody from china starts selling a reasonably priced M10 threaded rod that's heat treated, problem solved.


Is the rear axle actually only M10? In any case you can buy 316 SS x 1M threaded rod on EBay pretty cheap. And 316 SS rod is something like 30,000# shear. I'm guessing it would haul my fat butt around.

Does anyone know the total true dimensions (Diameter, threads per inch, and length)? There's 2 10mm thread sizes (10mm c 1.25 and 10mm x 1.5). So we need to know which it is.

I worry about the rear axle because I have my battery packs for my mid-drive mounted on a rack supported directly by the rear axle. That's an extra 30#s directly connected to it.

Bob


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Does anyone know the weight of the front fork? I bought one of those cheapo suspension forks from China on EBay. So before I swap out the old for the new I was wondering if I was going to loose or gain weight with it. I had the bike down to around 42#s and mounted my mid-drive and other goodies and jumped it back up to 56#s now. Hope it looses with the new fork.

Bob


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Go4itfatty said:


> Is the rear axle actually only M10? In any case you can buy 316 SS x 1M threaded rod on EBay pretty cheap. And 316 SS rod is something like 30,000# shear. I'm guessing it would haul my fat butt around.
> 
> Does anyone know the total true dimensions (Diameter, threads per inch, and length)? There's 2 10mm thread sizes (10mm c 1.25 and 10mm x 1.5). So we need to know which it is.
> 
> ...


Here's the kicker. The M10 bolts used in bicycles are a 1.0 pitch, extra fine thread. Basically a bike specific thread pitch. the stock axle is a 3/8" rod 26 TPI pitch, which is also a bike specific thread pitch. Standard 3/8" rods use 24 TPI for their thread pitch, and if you try to use one of them in a bike, it'll mess up the threads and not tighten down properly.many discussions were made about using one of these, and the best solution was to buy a meter long rod from a metal fabrication shop for something like $80 and cut it down. Once you get into doing that though, the cost of just buying a new wheel with a cassette freehub makes sense. Alternative is to drill out the 3/8" bearing cone nut to M10 and thread it to a 1.25 pitch. But then you'll have to find the right thickness of locknut bolts to get the axle width to 190 mm or file down the freewheel spacer.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Didn't measure the weight of the fork, but the suspension fork will probably add about 3-4 pounds. There is a forum post about those forks, and they said they're about 7 pounds. I think the stock fork was about 3-4 lbs (it's steel after all). The price you pay for suspension.


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## wagonguy1989 (Jun 19, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Didn't measure the weight of the fork, but the suspension fork will probably add about 3-4 pounds. There is a forum post about those forks, and they said they're about 7 pounds. I think the stock fork was about 3-4 lbs (it's steel after all). The price you pay for suspension.


ive seen these on ebay..... are they any good? are they worth it? im 265 5'8".... i dont need a bottom out LOL and are they adjustable?


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Didn't measure the weight of the fork, but the suspension fork will probably add about 3-4 pounds. There is a forum post about those forks, and they said they're about 7 pounds. I think the stock fork was about 3-4 lbs (it's steel after all). The price you pay for suspension.


I just weighed the suspension fork and it's 6.5#s. So I guess I'm going to be adding a few lbs back again.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Didn't measure the weight of the fork, but the suspension fork will probably add about 3-4 pounds. There is a forum post about those forks, and they said they're about 7 pounds. I think the stock fork was about 3-4 lbs (it's steel after all). The price you pay for suspension.


That's one of my upgrades but haven't had time to install it yet. To me it looks OK but seems like it might be a little squishy. But it is adjustable I haven't checked to see where it is in it's adjustment. Was going to do that just before I slap it on. I've never changed a thread-less fork so I'll be watching a few YouTube videos first. I'll have to keep ya posted.

Bob


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Here's the kicker. The M10 bolts used in bicycles are a 1.0 pitch, extra fine thread. Basically a bike specific thread pitch. the stock axle is a 3/8" rod 26 TPI pitch, which is also a bike specific thread pitch. Standard 3/8" rods use 24 TPI for their thread pitch, and if you try to use one of them in a bike, it'll mess up the threads and not tighten down properly.many discussions were made about using one of these, and the best solution was to buy a meter long rod from a metal fabrication shop for something like $80 and cut it down. Once you get into doing that though, the cost of just buying a new wheel with a cassette freehub makes sense. Alternative is to drill out the 3/8" bearing cone nut to M10 and thread it to a 1.25 pitch. But then you'll have to find the right thickness of locknut bolts to get the axle width to 190 mm or file down the freewheel spacer.


I got a little lost on this so please clarify for me. Are you saying the Dol axle is actually a 3/8" x 26tpi thread? If this is correct these dies are available on EBay. Actually some are called "cycle dies". If everything is correct I could buy a stick of 3/8" 316 SS rod and just run the die over it in the lathe.

Bob


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Just noticed EBay has m10 x 1.0 dies as well. So maybe not so bad after all.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi, Has anyone bought and installed one of the suspension forks on ebay on a Dolomite? If so, any pictures and is the disc brake a direct swap?
26er Fat Snow Beach Bike Bicycle Disc Brake Spead 135mm Steerer Diameter 28 6mm | eBay


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

I have one of those forks on a different bike, and I have a couple Dolos in the garage. It should be a pretty east install.


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Where did you get your fork from, China? How much, and how long to ship?


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## rockonx2 (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi, Has anyone bought and installed one of the suspension forks on ebay on a Dolomite? If so, any pictures and is the disc brake a direct swap?

26er Fat Snow Beach Bike Bicycle Disc Brake Spead 135mm Steerer Diameter 28 6mm | eBay


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## Rob Bandur (Jul 2, 2015)

I am the proud owner of the Canadian version Ironhorse Dolomite.
I am looking into getting a carbon frame but i have limited knowledge with bikes.
The frame in questions is:
Aliexpress.com : Buy Big Discount ! 26ER Carbon Fat Frame/Toray Carbon Fibre Snow Bike Fat Frame/ MTB Frame+Fork from Reliable Bicycle Frame suppliers on Sister Outdoor Sports Equipment Store | Alibaba Group

What parts if any i could swap from the Dolo to this frame?


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

I installed one of the cheapo EBay suspension forks yesterday. The install is very simple and straight forward. If you've never replaced a thread-less fork checkout YouTube like I did. While I have Avid BB7s 160mm brakes front and rear and they mounted to fine to the stock Dole brackets. The BB7s also mounted directly to the new EBay fork. You may find your front brake cable is to short and need replacement. I had to replace your my cable but I have an extended top tube and raised handle bars. I have not ridding the Dole since the fork install however, it really changes it. The suspension is 5"s longer then the stock fork and adds most of that to the height of the bike. You can plan on replacing the kick stand too. It's about 1 - 1/2" to short now. The bike now reminds me of one of those motor cycles with the long extended forks. For my use the length of the suspension is way to long and I may look into shortening it. I will post picks when I figure out how.

Bob


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## wagonguy1989 (Jun 19, 2015)

Go4itfatty said:


> I installed one of the cheapo EBay suspension forks yesterday. The install is very simple and straight forward. If you've never replaced a thread-less fork checkout YouTube like I did. While I have Avid BB7s 160mm brakes front and rear and they mounted to fine to the stock Dole brackets. The BB7s also mounted directly to the new EBay fork. You may find your front brake cable is to short and need replacement. I had to replace your my cable but I have an extended top tube and raised handle bars. I have not ridding the Dole since the fork install however, it really changes it. The suspension is 5"s longer then the stock fork and adds most of that to the height of the bike. You can plan on replacing the kick stand too. It's about 1 - 1/2" to short now. The bike now reminds me of one of those motor cycles with the long extended forks. For my use the length of the suspension is way to long and I may look into shortening it. I will post picks when I figure out how.
> 
> Bob


let me know how it performs please? im looking into getting one of these too, cant afford a bluto LOL


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## Finnsk (Jun 21, 2015)

I just want to say this thread is why I asked for a Mongoose (hitch) for my birthday. To the OP, thanks for all the tips, mods and work.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Took the new fork for s very short spin this morning and hope to take it on a 15 mile run tomorrow morning. So far I'd say I like having the suspension to soak up the bumps. But I don't like the action on it. It tends to "thump" a lot which could indicate I have it set to light. But before I tighten it down I want to rid it a while first. IT could be that it's just tight and needs to be broken in. Although it's the first time I've experienced something like this on a new fork. 

Please keep in mind I am motorized. So when I throttle up the fork jumps up an inch or more. Then thumps back into riding position. Not wild about this at all. It does act just like my motor cycle on hard braking. The front end dives down. Again, we'll see how it feels when hitting up curbs and what not. I am a very upright rider so from this standpoint it's great. I need to find a new kickstand because the stock one is at least 1-1/2" short. But it wasn't up to handling the added weight of the motor and battery packs anyway.

On another note; I think it was on another thread or maybe even on this one a discussion about brakes. I never gave the stock brakes on the Dole a try. When I got it they didn't work so I pulled them off and installed Avid BB7s 160mm disks with HS-1 (heat shedding) rotors. There have been statements that fat bikes need bigger then 160mm for good stopping. In my opinion a good set of 160mm brakes properly setup work great. My total ride weight including the bike, me, motor, batteries rear rack and a bunch of modifications including new tires, tube, handle bars crank arms and a rear rack is about 280 lbs, My ride speed so far is around 20mph on the flats. And the brakes pull the bike to a stop very well. 

Bob


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

additional info on those low buck suspension forks. with a few mods, acceptable. I still would rather go rigid for trails though. It really is a big kid BMX bike, that weighs a lot.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/cheap-suspension-fork-my-fat-bike-949740.html


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

I started out this afternoon intending to do about 15 miles on a semi paved and stone path through the local forest preserve. While it's not a mountain climb it has several bumps and curbs to test the suspension fork on. As life would have it the weather men were wrong again and we got caught in poring rain 6 miles from my car. But I got a good chance to test both the fork and the bike in both good weather and rain. 

I'm no expert but I will say this is the first time I've ridden this bike and my wrists weren't hurting afterword. But I don't ride down mountain sides ether. For "my" type of riding I feel this fork did what I expected and wanted from it. I don't like the extreme from end dipping under heavy braking. Of course I didn't have an opportunity to try adjusting the preloads which may have improved this problem. 

For my use I think I'm getting my money's worth from this fork. And for others that do "my" type of riding I would recommend it.

As I reported before, it's easy to install and will fit the stock Dole brakes or any other brake that mounts to the stock Dole fork. But you will need to replace or modify the kick stand because it becomes about 1-1/2" to short.

Bob


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Update on the cheapo suspension fork. Today I dialed down the damper as far as I could. It made little difference in the ride but significantly improved the front end dropping under heavy braking. I think I have about 45 miles on it now and for my riding I love it. Between the suspension fork, my Cran Creek Thudbuster and Cloud 9 seat It's like riding on a cloud. 

Bob


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

There have been a few posting here recommending replacement for the rear gear set and freewheel. I think my freewheel is about to go out so I am looking for something that is going to be really heavy duty. I have a Bafang 750w mid-drive motor on this bike and the poop the have on here for a gear rack isn't going to make it. Do anyone have any true idea what might be the strongest replacement? I'm not interest in anything with lower gearing. Right now I can pull up any hill in my way in 3rd or 4th gear with no effort. My problem is I have a constant noise from the gear set and it clanks when I start to peddle or engage the motor.

I know this is a gear set with built in freewheel. But is it possible to change this and go with a more common gear set?

Bob


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## Roborob44 (Jul 19, 2015)

Can someone recommend the least expensive 3 ring chainring to replace on the front, an inexpensive front derailer, and the gear changer for the handlebars and cable? Can someone tell me what SIZE chainring to look for? I realize SIZE is the # of teeth, but I just want to make sure it fits my Dolo. I really need to have a lower and higher gear to right the bike how I want to. If anyone can tell me the SIZE of the bottom bracket and where to find it that would be great too. Thank you for your help.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Go4itfatty said:


> There have been a few posting here recommending replacement for the rear gear set and freewheel. I think my freewheel is about to go out so I am looking for something that is going to be really heavy duty. I have a Bafang 750w mid-drive motor on this bike and the poop the have on here for a gear rack isn't going to make it. Do anyone have any true idea what might be the strongest replacement? I'm not interest in anything with lower gearing. Right now I can pull up any hill in my way in 3rd or 4th gear with no effort. My problem is I have a constant noise from the gear set and it clanks when I start to peddle or engage the motor.
> 
> I know this is a gear set with built in freewheel. But is it possible to change this and go with a more common gear set?
> 
> Bob


The schimano 7-speed 14-28 freewheel is probably the strongest freewheel that'll go on stock wheels. After that, you're looking at a new rear wheel with a freehub. If you start looking at new wheels though, might be worth looking at a new bike that comes with all the stuff you want. The constant noise is probably due to the low end derailure and not having a clean chain. apply chain lube often. If using a wet lube (best for road use), clean well before putting on new lube. If using a dry teflon lube (best for dirt/gravel), just apply it often. Every other ride should be adequate. The sudden clank when you start pedaling or engaging the gears is somewhat normal because the ratcheting mechanism inside the freewheel doesn't have a whole lot of points of engagment. I think the schimano one has 6 points (usually multiple pawls where 2 or 3 engage simultaneously for additional strength). When you start pedaling, it takes a litle bit of rotation before the pawls engage and you get a clank sound.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Roborob44 said:


> Can someone recommend the least expensive 3 ring chainring to replace on the front, an inexpensive front derailer, and the gear changer for the handlebars and cable? Can someone tell me what SIZE chainring to look for? I realize SIZE is the # of teeth, but I just want to make sure it fits my Dolo. I really need to have a lower and higher gear to right the bike how I want to. If anyone can tell me the SIZE of the bottom bracket and where to find it that would be great too. Thank you for your help.


The cost of adding the ability to change gears to the dolo will cost about $100 to $150 depending on what you buy. There are posts/links in the very first post about how to do it. I'd simply stick with a crankset swap to the vuelta 22-32-42 one off amazon (about $25) and swap the front gears by hand when I need to. The 32T will do most roads and hills. You can also spend an extra $8 and get a 26T or 28T truvative steel chainring (64 BCD) and swap it out for the smallest ring. It'll give acceptable gear ratios for steeper hills and dirt trails. You'll also need a crank arm puller tool to remove the stock crankarms. Don't just try to hit them off with a hammer. Right tool for the job. Only cost about $5 for a cheap one.

without spending a lot of money, not many options for the bottom bracket. It's a 100mm wide bottom bracket with a 198mm wide spindle (I think, look at first page). This size is not available from aftermarket. I'd just go with the $12 YST sealed bearing cups with a whole lot of axle grease and keep the stock spindle.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

watts888 said:


> The schimano 7-speed 14-28 freewheel is probably the strongest freewheel that'll go on stock wheels. After that, you're looking at a new rear wheel with a freehub. If you start looking at new wheels though, might be worth looking at a new bike that comes with all the stuff you want. The constant noise is probably due to the low end derailure and not having a clean chain. apply chain lube often. If using a wet lube (best for road use), clean well before putting on new lube. If using a dry teflon lube (best for dirt/gravel), just apply it often. Every other ride should be adequate. The sudden clank when you start pedaling or engaging the gears is somewhat normal because the ratcheting mechanism inside the freewheel doesn't have a whole lot of points of engagment. I think the schimano one has 6 points (usually multiple pawls where 2 or 3 engage simultaneously for additional strength). When you start pedaling, it takes a litle bit of rotation before the pawls engage and you get a clank sound.


Thanks for the reply. I took my complete wheel over to my local bike shop and we agreed there was nothing wrong with the freewheel. They even disagreed that it needed better lubrication. They did agree it needed to be adjusted because there was a little to much play in it. But just for the fun of it I bought the proper tool and removed the freewheel cluster, cleaned and re-lubed it. Strangely I had only 17 ball bears in it. 9 on one side and 8 on the other. Not that this was anything to do with the noise but it still wasn't right. So back the bike shop for 1 ball. I know I couldn't have lost it because I always do my wheel work over a metal trash can lid turned up-side-down. On the other side of the lid I place 2 large welding magnets. This way when anything drops out of the wheel it is caught in the can lid. Especially if it's metal the magnets just hold it where it falls.

What I found was the real cause of the noise was my motor mounting. The motor main shaft is mounted in a 2 part steel sleeve with bearing. The 2 parts were separating allowing the motor mount to loosen. So when I was off the throttle the motor would drop down about 1". When I hit the throttle again the torque would cause it to jump back into place causing it to slam into the bottom bar. It was doing it so hard that it actually made a 1/4" deep dent in the bottom bar. The motor has since been sent back to the supplier for repair. So I was riding my other bike (non-fatty) yesterday. It has the same motor on it and it to has a slight (normal) click when I engage the motor. So there is always going to be a click from the freewheels when a motor is used. But it is nothing like the sound of the motor slamming the frame.

BTW, while everything was apart I also soaked the chain and let it dry over night. Then dropped it on a can of light oil for a few hours and hung it again to drip over night. As soon as I get my motor back I'm betting all will be fine again.

Bob


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## J Hartman (Nov 8, 2012)

Is this the way to go to try a fatty? Looks like I can get a decent bike for sub 500 by adding a few parts. Not a good idea if I live in the Appalachians? Any other thoughts? I read through the popular upgrades. Just seeing how y'all feel about going this route.


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## Roborob44 (Jul 19, 2015)

No this is the cheapest way to get a fatty and start riding it. Already upgraded the rear sprocket to add the mega-tooth and am having a lot of fun. I am about to buy an e-kit with a 1500W motor, 48V LIPO4 battery w/20+Ah. Total cost of the e-upgrade = $704. Then I will get a full suspension fatbike and transfer the e-upgrade to the new bike. I plan to have 2 E-Cross fat bikes and 1 regular fat bike. Probably keep the dolo for others to ride  We come from the world of motocross and are getting older, but still want the speed! I will eventually get super-moto tires and see if I can get it street legal. It will go 45MPH!


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

*ekit*

what ekit r u buying for your bike? i have looked around and these are costing $700 for good ones without the battery. then an extra $700 for battery. keep us posted etc.



Roborob44 said:


> No this is the cheapest way to get a fatty and start riding it. Already upgraded the rear sprocket to add the mega-tooth and am having a lot of fun. I am about to buy an e-kit with a 1500W motor, 48V LIPO4 battery w/20+Ah. Total cost of the e-upgrade = $704. Then I will get a full suspension fatbike and transfer the e-upgrade to the new bike. I plan to have 2 E-Cross fat bikes and 1 regular fat bike. Probably keep the dolo for others to ride  We come from the world of motocross and are getting older, but still want the speed! I will eventually get super-moto tires and see if I can get it street legal. It will go 45MPH!


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## Roborob44 (Jul 19, 2015)

I am working with a company in China who is going to put together a custom package for me. You can choose from 250W up to 9000W (goes in a motorcycle). I am in the process of battery design so that the battery can rest in a very natural position, on top of the crank in the middle of the frame. Low center of gravity=better performance, plus the battery is in the MIDDLE of the bike, not making the front or back too heavy. These competing e-bike companies emerging have to stay within safety guidlines and federal laws, plus they don't want to get sued. That is why you see the Sonders bike and other with only a 350W motor and up to a 750W motor. And the insanely ridiculous price they are charging: $6K - $9K for an e-bike....and most of them don't even have suspension. Simple fact: the faster you go, the most suspension you need to absorb the shocks and most of all, keep the front tire on the ground to give you continued traction. I could put a 2KW, 3KW, 4KW motor, but for weight to performance and time you would want to ride, the 1500W seemed perfect for me and my riding style. Maybe I go bigger on the next bike but it will need a bigger battery with means more weight. Anyone want to go into business and kill the competition by offering better bikes, cheaper, with more power (or a range of power)? I can do a carbon fiber fat bike with only front forks and no rear suspension, same setup with 1500W motor....cost is less that $2K. This would be a better bike than 99% of the e-bikes on the market. We can also do the cheapo versions everyone else is selling. Will keep you advised.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

J Hartman said:


> Is this the way to go to try a fatty? Looks like I can get a decent bike for sub 500 by adding a few parts. Not a good idea if I live in the Appalachians? Any other thoughts? I read through the popular upgrades. Just seeing how y'all feel about going this route.


Some do. Some don't. Go look at the sticky thread "fatbikes under $1,000".


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Roborob44 said:


> ... I am about to buy an e-kit with a 1500W motor, 48V LIPO4 battery w/20+Ah. Total cost of the e-upgrade = $704. ... I will eventually get super-moto tires and see if I can get it street legal. It will go 45MPH!


First: make sure you have a place that you can safely and legally ride it. 
Secondly: quality cells to make a 48VDC LiFePO4 12ah to 16ah run in the $800 range. Make sure you know what you'll be getting, LiFePO4, LiPO or ___. And which type of BMS, etc..


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

A lot depends on what you plan to use it for. If your going to use it like I do as just another bike that happens to have fat tires then it's OK. And of course you are willing/able to do the mods you feel it needs. I think you might also find that a lot of the mods. that others did you might not feel are needed. It's all in your personal prospective. The best thing is if you get it from somewhere like WalMart you can always return it. BTW, on my bike I disassembled everything to check for the "missing grease" and they must have corrected this problem because while I added grease it wasn't really needed. 

I was at my local bike shop last week and looked at fatties that ranged in price from $499 through $999. I lifted each one of them (even the one hanging on the wall). Honestly, all but one was heavy as heck. I'm guessing it was the only alm. they had. And personally, the only one I really liked looked just like the Dole but in black (which I would have preferred). 

As I've said, for what I use the bike for (a fat ebike) and with the mods I made to it I am very happy with it. And most or all of the mods I've made to it I would have made to any bike I bough. So the way I see it I saved a lot of money buying it. And I'll live with the few added pounds. I personally prefer a steel frame though anyway. 

Bob


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

J Hartman said:


> Is this the way to go to try a fatty? Looks like I can get a decent bike for sub 500 by adding a few parts.


As mentioned, depends on what you plan on doing with it. I built mine up as a trail bike for under $500. Still heavy (upper 30s) , only came in one size ("blue"), limited to a freewheel, and hard to find replacment parts that fit. I ended up putting the stock wheels and fork back on it, aired up the tire pressure to 20psi, and it was a fun bike for road and crushed gravel. For gravel, it was actually a whole lot of fun, but really needed fenders. I then sold it and bought a fatbike off bikesdirect. The out of pocket cost for the BD bike was than the modified dolomite, but the BD bike was trail worthy from the start.

Using a dolomite on trails with rocks, roots, and 1' drops, I bent the rear axle a couple times and had to adjust the bearings every couple rides. I also weight 250 lbs at 6'5", so the dolo was too small out of the box and I did put it under heavy load. Once adjusted the front wheel and bottom bracket (with YST bearing upgrade) were good, that rear wheel always gave me trouble though.


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## domoMKIV (Feb 29, 2012)

Something bent? First pic shows when tightened up, second pic shows the line I need to have no rub on the washer. I'm not an expert but it seems like the mount is just not angled correctly.
I open to suggestions.


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## domoMKIV (Feb 29, 2012)

Never mind. I guess I forgot I bought a Walmart bike and had to actually take more time, get comfortable and start loosening/tightening until things work.
Hubs were TIGHT and greased fairly decently but I went ahead and redid them with more/better grease. Bottom bracket and headset were pretty lacking. Shifting is acceptable for now, minor tweaking necessary but no big deal. Wheels need to be trued. Brakes are crap.
Just started pouring, no test ride for me today. Bummer.


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## domoMKIV (Feb 29, 2012)

AZINGER said:


> But I found the following problems:
> 
> The Falcon freewheel mounting threads are not concentric with the cogs.
> The wheel itself is not concentric due to an improper weld seam.
> ...


Looks like this is where I'm at. The wobble is pretty awful. Bike rides ok otherwise.
Maybe I should just go for the deadeye monster and call it a day.


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## mondoburr (Apr 30, 2015)

*Mongoose Malus*

Here is my MALUS. Built it primarily for camping trips and just general running around.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

option for a cheap rear axle swap, if you're willing to bend the frame a litle bit. 170mm wide, cassette hub, 36 hole.
Amazon.com : HUB RR OR8 FB2000 BO 6B 36x170 8-10s CAS BK : Sports & Outdoors


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

I have to hand it to Mongoose customer support: I called them up looking to buy a replacement spindle, mine having self-destructed when the BB imploded on my last snow ride last winter. I offered to buy the spindle, never mentioned anything about a warranty issue. The rep asked me a couple of questions, sent me the spindle out under warranty at no charge, I got it two business days later. 

Outstanding CS for a company most fatty riders look down their noses at.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

carbuncle said:


> I have to hand it to Mongoose customer support: I called them up looking to buy a replacement spindle, mine having self-destructed when the BB imploded on my last snow ride last winter.
> 
> Outstanding CS for a company most fatty riders look down their noses at.


PacBike has excellent customer service, they always send me more parts than required to fix the problem.

But I also take the opportunity to tell them that building quality into the bike is cheaper than taking calls and sending out parts or throwing away returned bikes.

These ideas are always met with silence.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

domoMKIV said:


> Looks like this is where I'm at. The wobble is pretty awful. Bike rides ok otherwise.
> Maybe I should just go for the deadeye monster and call it a day.


Take the bike back and get another one. I did that twice and ended up with a decent bike (and $100 of parts and several hours of labor, but this is expected even for the $1000 bikes).


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## domoMKIV (Feb 29, 2012)

AZINGER said:


> Take the bike back and get another one. I did that twice and ended up with a decent bike (and $100 of parts and several hours of labor, but this is expected even for the $1000 bikes).


I took it back a couple days after posting that. Unfortunately no stores around here have these in stock so I may just keep scouring CL and see what other fatties show up.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Does anyone have any ideas on a rust-resistant treatment for my new spindle before I install it? The road salt in New England went after the old spindle with a vengeance last year.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

There is a bike frame treatment spray called "Frame Saver" that I've heard people using. I've also heard people using linseed oil and WD40. I think any oil based lubricant will help protect the frame from rusting.

However, when it comes to the spindle, lots of axle grease. And some sort of bottom bracket seal. either the YST cups with seal inserts, or a couple garden hose washers shoved onto the spindle before you put the crankarm on. 

I always remember my dolo having water sitting in the bottom bracket/frame whenever I'd spray it with a garden hose (lightly) to get the dirt off. I think drilling a drain hole near the bottom bracket may be worth it, although a possibe source of contamination.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Thanks!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

domoMKIV said:


> I took it back a couple days after posting that. Unfortunately no stores around here have these in stock so I may just keep scouring CL and see what other fatties show up.


Like others here, I had mine delivered to my door for free. I don't know if you have that option or not.


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## domoMKIV (Feb 29, 2012)

Mine was delivered for free, just lost interest in getting another one more than anything as I have seen a few $1000 bikes on CL for half the price so I may just wait it out. The ones on CL have all been owned by giants so far, I can't do a mtb 32" stand over comfortably, lol.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Where are you guys putting the hose washers to seal the YST? I'm going to install everyting later tonight.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The yst bottom bracket has the washer seals as an integral part, so no need to do the hose washer trick. If you use the stock bottom bracket, after cleaning and adjusting it properly, you just slide some garden hose washers over the axle before you put the crank arms on. If you haven't cleaned and adjusted the bottom bracket since you bought it, it's probably too tight and full of metal shavings. Not saying that the quality control at manufacturing is horrible, but I don't know if I'd trust them to make a rock.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

If anyone is in the Columbus, Ohio area and needs parts for a dolo, I have one in my basement collecting dust.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Thanks, watts888, I have the YST and the stock bb has been off all summer. Hoping to get to this this week: winter is coming.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Back For the Fall!*

Hey folks, even though it's 90 degrees outside today up here in Vermont, I saw a lot of brown leaves already littering the ground. That means the mongoose fleet will be coming back out for the fall, and more importantly winter riding.

It's been a few months since I scrolled through this thread but it looks as though the Dolo goes by a new name now and comes in some other color options.

Contrary to some other members on this forum, (non BBB fans to say the least,) my Dolo made it the entire winter season without an catastrophic failures. I had it out on many frozen days, lots of them under 0 degrees with the windchill and the fame did not snap in half!

Even better, when I figured that the goose would have all summer to rest while I had my full suspension bike out and about. I have actually inflated the tires up to 20psi and let friends and family ride them as a trail bike when they visit and we go to state parks and other smoother roads!

I'm guessing this thread will get a little longer come this winter, but I'm already hoping for colder days so here are some pics to get this thread

































Edit, sorry, it also added some pics of the full suspension bike, those roots are fun to climb!


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

*Also need some high res shots.*

All those pics were from my phone and I gotta put up a couple nice shots, even if a few of you have seen them once or twice before.


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

can you guys help me out? i want to buy an entry level fat bike to get into riding and im set on a mongoose but i dont know which model. ive read many opinions in this thread over the last few days but still wanted to ask. i would like to order one tonight or tomorrow. amazon has the dolomite for 249, malus for 233, and the hitch for 329. im really torn between the dolomite and the malus. thanks!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Assuming you haven't bought one yet, simple breakdown. The mongoose dolomite, hitch, and malus are basically the same bike with very minor differences. The dolomite has a heavier fork and tires. The dolomites fork is also shorter, which increases the headtube angle and makes the steering quicker. For road and beach/boardwalk use, the dolomite is ok.
The hitch and malus have a better fork for off-road use. slightly longer, which will slow the steering down and make it better for going downhills. The hitch has drilled rims, which might save a pound or two. Other than that, color difference. FYI, walmart has the hitch for $249, so I'd go there over amazon. Of all the ones you've listed, I'd go with the hitch, with the malus a close second.

If you plan on actual rocks and roots and taking jumps trail use, I'd strongly consider stepping up to something off bikesdirect (gravity bullseye monster or boris x5). The bottom bracket is easier to find a replacement for, and the rear hub is a freehub, which is stronger. I quickly bent my dolomite's rear axle, and finding a replacement is pretty much impossible because of the length. They're also assembled decently from the factory so not a lot of messing around when you get it. The mongoose will probably require you to adjust bearings all over the place.

If you're stuck on mongoose, also recommend looking at this guy.
http://www.*****sportinggoods.com/p...9303&catargetid=120138600001603954&cadevice=c


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

Thank you! i havent bought one yet. most of my riding will be on city streets since i live in houston but i want something that i can also take to galveston and ride on the beach and id like to be able to do some trail riding too. i found the hitch on walmarts website shortly after my first post. academy has the malus on their website for 220 but it show to be unavailable. it will probably come down to which one i can get the cheapest and soonest. i have a habit of diving into hobbies and then losing interest so i dont want to buy a higher end bike until i know its something ill keep doing. i havent even riddena fat bike yet. the link you posted doesnt go anywhere, btw. thank you so much for your input!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Landon3185 said:


> Thank you! i havent bought one yet. most of my riding will be on city streets since i live in houston but i want something that i can also take to galveston and ride on the beachi havent even riddena fat bike yet. the link you posted doesnt go anywhere, btw. thank you so much for your input!


WMT offers Fattys for 225 - 399. Buy one. Ride it. If you don't like it, they have a generous 90 day trial period in which to make up your mind. 
But if you buy one from BDirect and it is broken or you don't like it, tough luck.
The Hitch is 41 pds, the Dolomite is 50. I got the Logan, put on a Alivio rear, Hussfeldt stem, Acera shifter, YST and it rides really nice.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

the link I posted was for the Mongoose Vinson. Google search should bring it up. It looks like MTBR doesn't like to post the world for a man's reproductive organ, so I will be forced to refer to it as schwang in all future posts. I wonder if I just put a bunch of asterisks, if MTBR will reverse it and put up swear words.

And don't forget price matching. If there is a published price that's lower, no harm in harassing the walmart customer service.


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

first off, i want to say thanks again for y'all's responses and advice. 

i spent some time looking on bikesdirect last night and almost sold myself on the gravity bullseye monster but still dont want to pull the trigger on a $500+ purchase on a whim. im currently scouring craigslist for a used bike but if i dont find one im going to order the hitch from wmt. from there, if i like fat bikes, i will either order an aluminum framed bike or just order a frame and build my own.

the reason i said i had decided on the mongoose is because all 3 models ive mentioned are all right at $250 and have at least 4 of 5 stars on almost any website you look to for reviews. i looked at the vinson but the $550 price tag steered me away.


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

well i ended up going with the malus from academy for $220+tax. mostly because it would have taken a week and a half to get a hitch from walmart and my nearest academy had the malus in stock. 

i assembled it as soon as i got home and rode it a total of about a mile up and down my street getting the brakes and stuff adjusted and basically just getting familiar with it. i immediately decided that the seat, twist shifter, and brake levers had to be replaced before i could really enjoy the bike. i figured while i was doing that i would do a few other mechanical upgrades such as a sealed bottom bracket along with doing a new paint job.

yesterday when i got home from work i started tearing her down to the frame to do paint, actually plastidip, and when i got to the bottom bracket i ran into an issue. the fixed bearing cup is seized into the frame and the cup flange isnt flush/square with the frame where it screws in. i dont have an open end wrench big enough but i have large channel locks and a large crescent wrench and im a pretty strong dude. still no luck though. i cant get it to budge in either direction. 

any advice? has anyone experienced this? i sent photos to pac cycle last night and will be calling them here shortly. hopefully their customer service is helpful. 

overall i really like the bicycle and my first impressions are pretty good but now im not going to be able to ride this weekend unless i just put it back together and ride it as is but i really dont want to waste the time. im pretty bummed that the frame could possibly be compromised.


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

just got off the phone with pac cycle and they said to put it back together and take it back to academy and exchange it. not really what i was wanting to do but i guess thats the only way im going to get to ride this weekend. blah.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I actually like the silver/chrome, but to each their own. As you're probably aware, the left side BB cup is normal thread, so it should unscrew the normal way. The right side is reverse. I was able to get mine off with a big ole cresent wrench and a rubbet mallet. Took some time though. There have been some complaints about the bottom bracket pipe not cut flush, but that is a sad fact of a $250 steel bike. Some are good, some aren't. With steel bearing cups, it won't really hurt anything once tightened, they just won't be flush. Since you're doing plastidip, I'd just tape off the bottom bracket cup and paint around it. Before you paint it though, get the date-code and warranty information off the stickers. I'd just take pictures of every sticker and the frame's serial number. After plastidip, that stamped serial number can be hard to read.

If you haven't already bought the YST sealed cups, you can get away with a garden hose washer shoved onto the axle shaft and held in place with a zip tie. It doesn't take much force to seal the axle up, and that's about as much pressure as the yst cup's seals put on the axle.

I'd also replace the handlebar to a better one. Even the cheap $10 origin8 alloy ones off amazon are better, but for $20 you can get much better. I've seen a couple pictures on here of bent bars. The brake levers are bad, but with the stock brakes, it's about all you need. I was able to lock up my wheels with them, but they do flex quite a bit. The grips and shifter are bad. schimano 7-speed or 8-speed trigger shifters will work. I'd grab the 8-speed if they are the same price. The indexing is the same, you just have one extra click that doesn't do anything on the 8-speed shifter. It'll also allow you to use an 8-speed freewheel in the future if you decide to upgrade the rear gears.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Quick update on my cheapo suspension fork from EBay. I liked riding with it a lot but had to remove it. I found for my type of riding it raised the front of the bike to high. Actually it make the whole bike much higher. Being mature (68) and with bad knees and most other joints I have a hard time swinging over the saddle if the bike is to high. 

I also have a problem peddling with standard peddle arm lengths. So I've installed 5" arms on my standard bike and 4" arms on my fatty. Please remember I run a mid-drive motor (Bafang 48v 750w) on both bikes. 

I love riding the Dole a lot and would like to put the suspension fork back on. So I was thinking of buying a 20" front wheel that's setup for disk brakes to pair with the suspension fork. In this manner the bike would be a more normal height and easy for me to mount and ride. I could also mount my BB-7 front brake with little or no problem. 

All thoughts and comments on this idea are totally welcome. 

Bob


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

mine wouldnt come loose either. but finally got a good enough grip with a breaker bar on the end of a wrench, it finally came loose. did my malus also with goodies...think i listed above somewhere


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

anyone tried putting on an electric motor on these puppies? ie bafang


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## Landon3185 (Sep 8, 2015)

Well i took it back to academy and exchanged it. The new one came apart as it should have. I got her plasti-dipped and put a new seat on along with a new brake levers, grips, and a new shifter. I'm planning several weight reduction upgrades for the future but so far I'm really impressed with this bicycle, especially at this price point. I've ridden it about 11 miles around the Houston area in the last two days and it seems to handle any terrain fairly well with just a little extra push on inclines. Just FYI, of the different pressures I've ridden with, I prefer about 16psi. I definitely have no regrets about buying this bike over the $550+ aluminum "bargain fat bike".


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> anyone tried putting on an electric motor on these puppies? ie bafang


Happily I can say I motorized my Dole before I ever rode it. Actually I did a lot of mods before I ever rode it. I installed a 48v 750w Bafang mid-drive. I use a 34t crank sprocket. The cassette freewheel died after about 45 miles. I replaced it with a 14t x 34t Shimano and it works great. It shifts perfectly and has great hill climbing ability. And the top speed is 25mph.

I also bought better and lighter tires/tubes, handlebars, seat, added a Thud Buster and BB-7 brakes. I also installed a cheapo suspension fork and loved the way it rode but it raises the front of the bike to high and I put the stock fork back on.

Bottom line I love the bike with the Bafang mid-drive and other mods I did. Most of the mods I did I would have done no matter what bike I bought (cheap or expensive) because few bikes ever make me happy as built.

Bob


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

Bob, I have been looking at this bafang too. they said it doesnt fit the fat bikes but then they said it does fit the dolomite or did you have to grind the crankset tube to make it narrower? i have the malus and not the dolomite, i think the crankset tubes are the same width i hope. the shimano u used, the 14x34, was that like the tourney freewheel or the megarange or what. if this get boring for others, just pm me. thanks


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

foolofsand said:


> Bob, I have been looking at this bafang too. they said it doesnt fit the fat bikes but then they said it does fit the dolomite or did you have to grind the crankset tube to make it narrower? i have the malus and not the dolomite, i think the crankset tubes are the same width i hope. the shimano u used, the 14x34, was that like the tourney freewheel or the megarange or what. if this get boring for others, just pm me. thanks


I bought my Bafang mid-drive as a modified unit from Doug at California E-bike. So it arrived as a 100mm drive and bolted up to the Dole. In stall time is under an hour it you know what to do. This is my 3rd. Bike with a Bafang mid-drive but the 2nd. I've bought from Doug. The 1st. Was off of Ebay which was a disaster.

If you decide to grind your tube to fit a standard 68mm think it through first so you know how much off each side. The stock 48v 750w drive comes with a 48t crank sprocket. Some sellers offer other sizes. Most are larger though. I highly recommend using a 32t or 34t crank drive. Those big tires take more power to turn. So a stock sprocket loads the motor to much. To use these small sprockets you will need an adapter though. You can check on California E-bike's site for the adapter. I bought the "race face" 34t alm. Sprocket from Ebay.

The Shimano I bought is the megarange. A lot of people have had problems adjusting the stock freewheel set. Personally I've not had that problem until it started to fall apart it was constantly out of adjustment. When I installed the Shimano Megarange adjusting for it was no problem but I did add 1 extra chain link. The jump from 1st. gear to 2nd. gear is a big jump and I would prefer if they spaced out the range between all 7 gears better. But it is what it is. I find holding 1st. gear till about 10mph works best and 2nd. till about 13mph. After that I just wind it out in each gear and most of the time shift under power except between 1st. and 2nd.

Bob


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## foolofsand (Apr 25, 2015)

I will definitely have to decide to do this. My malus just measured like 115 mm. I would really have to see whats left of the frame tubes when done, may not be worth it. Checked my wifes bike and its 68mm, may get one for her and Ill just use it..thanks for the info, be in touch later.


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## lpranal (Mar 14, 2007)

I keep looking at the Hitch on walmart's site hoping it will go lower, as a lot of the other fatbikes seem to be getting cleared out. I understand the limitations of these bikes (heavy in stock form, QC issues and needing to be tuned up a bit out of the box) but I think my intended use falls well within these parameters - I just need a winter "beater" bike for my commute which is 2 miles of mostly flat, unplowed paved bike trail. 

I'm wondering if anyone has weighed the tubes and tires on the hitch, or are they the same as the dolomite / malus? tubes and tires would be my first upgrade, wondering which is more "bang for the buck" upgrade - if either one is. Also going with a sealed BB is probably mandatory since this is going to be a winter bike, I'm assuming?


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

lpranal said:


> I'm wondering if anyone has weighed the tubes and tires on the hitch, or are they the same as the dolomite / malus? tubes and tires would be my first upgrade, wondering which is more "bang for the buck" upgrade - if either one is.


Hitch Weight 43.5 pds vs Dolomite 49 pds. 
The cranks are alloy so that saves 1.5 pds.
Another 1/2 pd for the drilled wheels.
The last 3 1/2 pds is a lighter frame and components .

The Hitch tires and wheels are the same weight as the Dolo. You could save another 4-5 pounds with smaller wheels, 120 tpi tires and smaller 3" tubes but this would cost more than the bike.

My First upgrades: $65
YST BB
Shimano Freewheel HG37
Acera click shifter
Alivio rear mech


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

So as I mentioned, winter will soon be here, but with another trip to the Adirondacks last weekend we had to bring the bikes with us. Turns out you can get the dolo into about 4 feet of water and still ride with decent traction, after that the two tires pretty much become like floating tubes and the bike rises right out of the water.

This did clean out my bearings just as a heads up, but on a bright note I had to re-grease them for the winter anyway. So everything is all good now.


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## 2wTrekr (Oct 1, 2015)

*more tires on Dolo, 10/1/15*

Hi 1st post here (best thread on the already legendary Dolo!)
I hope this is where to add tires run on the Dolo.
1st off (but probably re-stating here), in general almost any semi/treaded fat bike tire can have improved traction (especially in snow), with the rear tire/tread 'reversed' from the labeled rotation direction.

I have run:


45NRTH HÜSKER DÜ 26x4's, 27tpi: 
my favorite tire so far, works well on roads and in snow)

VEE Mission Commander 26x4's, 120 tpi : 
These are basically VEE Mission tires, with added center-lugs and ridges connecting to lugs on each side of center, for a more steady 'road-type' tread, for smoother rolling and less 'buzz' on pavement, 
compared to 'purely-knobby' tires.

Probably already answered somewhere, but has anyone been able to run 4.8's on the Dolo (stock frame & wheels) from any vendor/brand?


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Hi there, I have gotten a set of Quando hubs 135mm front and 190mm rear. I have the same Dolomite 100 mm rims on my huffy excess. I need to figure out the ERD (effective rim diameter) to build my wheels. My huffy came with front disk brake but the rear one is rim brake but the frame is disk brake ready that's why I want to swap the hubs. I also noticed that the spokes on the current hubs are much thicker than the standard 14g spokes on most fat bikes including my Gravity BEM. My Quando hubs flange holes are smaller than the huffy's so I suppose I will need to get 14g spokes. The other problem that I noticed is that the spoke holes on the rims are bigger also due to the stock thicker nipples. I used a 14g spoke and a corresponding nipple from an old mountain bike wheel, the nipple seems to work fine but I'm concerned if the bigger hole on the rim will eventually wear off due to the thinner/smaller nipple. Just by looking on the Dolomite rims and comparing them to the ones on my huffy, I am 100% sure both companies used the same rims but different hubs. 

Have someone ever swapped the hubs on the Dolomite's rims? I have all the Quando hubs measures accounted, but the ERD is the most important in order to calculate accurate spoke lengths.

I used a measuring tape, I don't have a caliper 

ERD=? My estimate is 536mm but not sure (help me measure this)
Hub width or OLD= 190 mm
Left lock-nut to flange = 35 mm
Right lock-nut to flange = 50 mm
Left flange diameter = 60 mm
Right flange diameter = 60 mm
Number of spokes = 36
Lacing pattern = 3x
Diameter of flange spoke holes = 2.6 mm


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Luis_fx35 said:


> ... I need to figure out the ERD (effective rim diameter) to build my wheels...
> The other problem that I noticed is that the spoke holes on the rims are bigger also due to the stock thicker nipples...
> I used a measuring tape, I don't have a caliper...


I suggest you make a new post over in Tires & Wheels on how to figure out your ERD and spoke length (which tool).

In the photo I see that your nipples appear to be locked square to the tangent of the wheel and can't rotate to be inline with the pull on the spokes. This is not compatible with a strong wheel build and long nipple/spoke life. Take a look at this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/drilling-northpaw-47mm-rim-945163.html#post11827944

I can buy a set of six plastic calipers for $12. Not the same as my $150 caliper, but a lot better than a tape.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'd look at 16mm spoke nipples to see if they will fit better in the rim. It would be nice to drill the rims for the proper spoke angle, but I don't know how much drilling these rims can take.

If you haven't lookedit up yet, Sheldon Brown does a good job of how to measure ERD. Just search google for Sheldon Brown wheelbuilding ERD.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... It would be nice to drill the rims for the proper spoke angle,...


Not necessary to drill at an angle (high-risk DIY too). Instead, use a poly-ax nipple. 


Canoe said:


> ... Take a look at this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/drilling-northpaw-47mm-rim-945163.html#post11827944...


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## lpranal (Mar 14, 2007)

Well, price on the hitch just dropped $10, so I'm in. Hopefully this thing's as good as people are saying - not expecting a $1000 LBS-quality ride, hopefully I get one without too many issues!


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

lpranal said:


> Well, price on the hitch just dropped $10, so I'm in. Hopefully this thing's as good as people are saying - not expecting a $1000 LBS-quality ride, hopefully I get one without too many issues!


One thing I learned is to not upgrade parts immediately with these PacBikes. You have a 90 day trial period to see what if anything is wrong.

The one I have now I rode for about two weeks before upgrading, gradually finding the problems and weighing whether or not to take it back. Since the only problem I found is cosmetic I decided to keep it. Mechanical defects are a definite reason for return. Watch out for sloppy welds on the wheels causing an out of round condition, loose brake discs and bad freewheels.

And don't hesitate to call customer support for parts if you think the bike is worth fixing. Free is good.


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## lpranal (Mar 14, 2007)

AZINGER said:


> One thing I learned is to not upgrade parts immediately with these PacBikes. You have a 90 day trial period to see what if anything is wrong.
> 
> The one I have now I rode for about two weeks before upgrading, gradually finding the problems and weighing whether or not to take it back. Since the only problem I found is cosmetic I decided to keep it. Mechanical defects are a definite reason for return. Watch out for sloppy welds on the wheels causing an out of round condition, loose brake discs and bad freewheels.
> 
> And don't hesitate to call customer support for parts if you think the bike is worth fixing. Free is good.


Thanks for the advice! Since it's going to be my "winter beater" and average ride length will be my 2 mile commute to and from work, I really don't think I'll need to do all that much to it, but I was debating on whether or not to order that bottom bracket right away (the $10 YST). I'll hold off. 90 days should be plenty of time to kick the tires before it snows. Might consider more upgrades if I decide to start doing some trail riding in the winter. Cheers!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Serious trail rides with rocks, roots, and jumps; or casual smoother stuff? Depending on how much you weigh, avoid the rocks and roots to prevent a bent rear axle. If you're just messing around, it should be fine.

Short term upgrades:
grease everything, expect metal shavings inside the bottom bracket and for the hubs to be over tightened.
throw some garden hose o-rings over the bottom bracket axle and put zipstrips on the axle. This makes a ghetto seal to keep stuff out of the bottom bracket. The stock bottom bracket isn't that bad, it just starts out nasty.

If you plan on riding in snow (plowing through it, not just riding on well groomed snow paths), you'll probably need more torque and want a new crankset with a smaller ring up front (vuelta 22-32-42 crankset off amazon for about $25) and manually move the chain down to the 22T ring on the hard stuff.
frame-saver spray. anti-rust spray you want to spray inside the frame. Every time I layed my bike down, I swear water leaked out of the bottom bracket. Accumulated inside the frame from snow, washing, water crossings, etc.., but it wouldn't drain out without actively flipping the bike upside down. If you keep the bike, might consider drilling a drain hole in the bottom of the bottom bracket.
Handlebar (seatpost and seat optional for comfort). Those things are heavy as sin, and the handlebar has bent on quite a few people just doing normal riding.


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## lpranal (Mar 14, 2007)

watts888 said:


> Serious trail rides with rocks, roots, and jumps; or casual smoother stuff? Depending on how much you weigh, avoid the rocks and roots to prevent a bent rear axle. If you're just messing around, it should be fine.
> 
> Short term upgrades:
> grease everything, expect metal shavings inside the bottom bracket and for the hubs to be over tightened.
> ...


Good to know. If I end up keeping this thing I'm ok spending the 10 bucks on a bottom bracket and, also a freewheel. My ride to work has no rocks, roots or jumps as it's a paved bike bath the whole way that doesn't get plowed in the winter. I don't see myself riding in 3 feet of snow, more or less just getting it out in early and late winter to ward off the cabin fever and keep my legs in riding shape longer. Also the trail tends to stay snowy (packed, melted and re-frozen snow) well after it gets warmish (40s - 50s) out, so being able to ride in february-march would be awesome. If there's powder I'd rather bust out my snowshoes


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Hi everyone I've been lurking for a few weeks now trying to gather upgrade info for my new Dolo ! So far I have not found were I can get replacement brake pads . Does anyone know where to get them or what other brand pad will fit ?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

replacement brake pads aren't worth it. The stock brake calipers are junk in comparison to other aftermarket brakes. You'll also have a really hard time finding the correct size, as you've probably found out. Schimano hydraulics for $60, avid BB7 for $70. ask around local bike groups to see if anybody has any used brakes sitting in their basement.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thank you for your response ! I'll look into other options !


watts888 said:


> replacement brake pads aren't worth it. The stock brake calipers are junk in comparison to other aftermarket brakes. You'll also have a really hard time finding the correct size, as you've probably found out. Schimano hydraulics for $60, avid BB7 for $70. ask around local bike groups to see if anybody has any used brakes sitting in their basement.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Here is a link to the original brake pads for the Dolo: MTB Disc Brake Pads for Jak 5 Hayes MX2 MX3 MX4 Disc Brake Resin 4 Pairs | eBay


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

After even more research I found out the brake pads for the j.a.k. superbrake are the same pads as a Hayes mx2,mx3,mx4 which are easy to find at almost any bike shop.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Ditto !


AZINGER said:


> New owner here. Bought the Dolo from Wally World Sunday night, free shipping, delivered to my door Tuesday. I have read all 63 pages, some posts several times as should every rookie. So far I replaced the pedals with MKS Stream's, WTB V saddle and installed a bottle cage, all free take offs.
> 
> First impression is astonished. It rides great. The front wheel is unbelievably true and spun freely. The brakes will take some getting used to, coming from calipers but are entirely acceptable. Bad: Scratched paint on the tube and missing the retaining washers for the front tire mount as indicated in the directions, unless these are not included on purpose.
> Thinking about putting on an Acera Derailleur.
> ...


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Luis_fx35 said:


> Hi there, I have gotten a set of Quando hubs 135mm front and 190mm rear. I have the same Dolomite 100 mm rims on my huffy excess. I need to figure out the ERD (effective rim diameter) to build my wheels. My huffy came with front disk brake but the rear one is rim brake but the frame is disk brake ready that's why I want to swap the hubs. I also noticed that the spokes on the current hubs are much thicker than the standard 14g spokes on most fat bikes including my Gravity BEM. My Quando hubs flange holes are smaller than the huffy's so I suppose I will need to get 14g spokes. The other problem that I noticed is that the spoke holes on the rims are bigger also due to the stock thicker nipples. I used a 14g spoke and a corresponding nipple from an old mountain bike wheel, the nipple seems to work fine but I'm concerned if the bigger hole on the rim will eventually wear off due to the thinner/smaller nipple. Just by looking on the Dolomite rims and comparing them to the ones on my huffy, I am 100% sure both companies used the same rims but different hubs.
> 
> Have someone ever swapped the hubs on the Dolomite's rims? I have all the Quando hubs measures accounted, but the ERD is the most important in order to calculate accurate spoke lengths.
> 
> ...


Any update on these hubs? anyone build wheels with them yet?


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Does anyone know exactly what tools I need to service the bottom bracket correctly ?
The links on the first page no longer work !


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

big a$$ crescent wrench and a bottom bracket lock ring wrench. Other than that, lots of degreaser, paper towels, and new grease.
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Remover-Bracket-Maintenance-Spanner/dp/B00QRSRZC0


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thanks,good price on the spanner wrench !


watts888 said:


> big a$$ crescent wrench and a bottom bracket lock ring wrench. Other than that, lots of degreaser, paper towels, and new grease.
> http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Remover-Bracket-Maintenance-Spanner/dp/B00QRSRZC0


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Avid bb7 disc brakes:Will these calipers fit on the dolo without changing anything else ?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I was able to get mine to work by adding a couple washers between the caliper adapters and those cup/cone angle adjuster washers. The number is trial and error to prevent rubbing the caliper against the rotor. The reason you need the washers is because the stock JAK brake's use a slightly different offset than most aftermarket brakes.

Other than that, the stock levers and rotors will work with BB7, but both could use replacing. the levers especially can flex when you brake because they're plastic. I'd look at some inexpensive aluminum alloy levers (V-brake/linear pull) and some cheap rotors off amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Avid-Bicycle-...qid=1445868484&sr=1-19&refinements=p_36:-1000
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-Alloy-Fin...&qid=1445868594&sr=1-17&keywords=alloy+levers


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thank you watts,excellent response !


watts888 said:


> I was able to get mine to work by adding a couple washers between the caliper adapters and those cup/cone angle adjuster washers. The number is trial and error to prevent rubbing the caliper against the rotor. The reason you need the washers is because the stock JAK brake's use a slightly different offset than most aftermarket brakes.
> 
> Other than that, the stock levers and rotors will work with BB7, but both could use replacing. the levers especially can flex when you brake because they're plastic. I'd look at some inexpensive aluminum alloy levers (V-brake/linear pull) and some cheap rotors off amazon.
> 
> ...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

If you're setting up BB7 calipers, you want to read the following:



Canoe said:


> I wasn't familiar with them. I found this handy.
> Avid BB7 Disc Brake set up and tuning
> It's dated.
> Perhaps Velobike might have time to see if there's anything in there he'd recommend differently.





Velobike said:


> That's very much the counsel of perfection, but there's nothing wrong with that. I'm nowhere near as fastidious about thread lock or torque wrenches.
> 
> I am as fussy about cables though.
> 
> ...


If you really want brake response, Jagwire CEX housing fits inside 1/4" soft copper tubing (as used for fridge and furnace humidifier water supplies)! 
Once you've got the bars were you want them, on the front it's full copper caliper to lever. 
(If you'll be adjusting them, copper from caliper to stem)
For the rear line, copper from caliper to just past the steering tube, heatshrink where the CEX comes out of the copper to go to the lever to keep water/mud out. 
Bonus: looks steampunkish or getto, depending on the viewer. If you've got the balls to handle the comments, it performs amazing!

I got the Avid speed-dial levers, just because. Speed-dials not necessary: their regular levers work great too; a friend bought them just because, and was blown away in how much better response/control he got (but this was bike pulling extremely heavy trailer...).

Do be sure you're getting mountain calipers with mountain levers.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thank you for the info Canoe !So far I've ordered about $200 worth of upgrades,now I'm just waiting for them to arrive ! The dolo sits until I can check and upgrade everything !


Canoe said:


> If you're setting up BB7 calipers, you want to read the following:
> 
> If you really want brake response, Jagwire CEX housing fits inside 1/4" soft copper tubing (as used for fridge and furnace humidifier water supplies)!
> Once you've got the bars were you want them, on the front it's full copper caliper to lever.
> ...


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## hesstopher (Oct 29, 2015)

*hanger bent?*

Just bought a Hitch...planning for some snow riding and a cheap bike to learn how to work on a bike before I mess up my more expensive one. This is what my rear derailleur and frame look like. I think the frame (derailleur hanger) is bent, but maybe I'm wrong. It doesn't look like the paint is stressed like it was bent in shipping. Is this what others have looked like?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

hesstopher said:


> Just bought a Hitch... I think the frame (derailleur hanger) is bent, ...


Yup.
That's bent. Likely in shipping, but who knows.

Note how the plane of the derailer guide wheels is not parallel to the plane of the freewheel gears. Way out of spec. You could try to bend it back, adding more metal fatigue, weakening the metal further, only "you'd be the one who's weakened it". And if it doesn't break while you are doing that, it's at high risk to do so with the stress and vibration of normal use.

Send it back.

Be happy you caught that, didn't bend it back, and end up out on a winter trail somewhere and have it break.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

That happens on my dolo every time I drop it on the drive side (crash/fall/slip). You can play it safe and return for a new one, I have bent mine back into place at least 5 times. One thing with PAC cycles is they have a great customer service/returns/parts dept.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Canoe,you can add this to the parts that actually work on the stock dolo list !

Amazon.com : XLC Adjustable Stem - 25.4mm x 90mm, 0/60 Degree, Black : Bike Stems And Parts : Sports & Outdoors


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thanks for thinking of others, but pretty much any 1 1/8" will fit, so there's not a real need of listing all accessories that will fit. It's the hard to get or odd-ball sizes that we have to keep an eye out for.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Your very welcome Canoe ! Has anyone tried this chain lubricant ? ?DuPont Teflon Chain Saver, 11 oz - Walmart.com



Canoe said:


> Thanks for thinking of others, but pretty much any 1 1/8" will fit, so there's not a real need of listing all accessories that will fit. It's the hard to get or odd-ball sizes that we have to keep an eye out for.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

All my upgrades arrived yesterday and I installed and tested everything today ! Now I'm looking for a freehub that will work on my dolo ?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Justthefacts84 said:


> All my upgrades arrived yesterday and I installed and tested everything today ! Now I'm looking for a freehub that will work on my dolo ?


And this is the point of upgrades where I ended up selling my dolo. The freehubs that work easily would be a replacement wheel off a Minnesotta 3.0 fatbike. More difficult ones include lacing up an ebay/alibaba quadro 190mm fatbike hub, or using a 170mm wide fatbike hub and bending the rear triangle in some. You can also buy complete 170mm fatbike wheelset. Unfortunately, the price for parts/labor for all these starts to outweight the cost of buying a fatbike from online/used.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... Unfortunately, the price for parts/labor for all these starts to outweight the cost of buying a fatbike from online/used.


+++

Which is why we keep recommending that people add up the material & labour costs of all of the anticipated "upgrades" (and fixes) and compare that to other offerings for both cost and value - before starting to make purchases.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

Looking to upgrade my frame


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Left side or right side?


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thank you mr watts !I don't mind doing the upgrades,you learn a lot in the process !


watts888 said:


> And this is the point of upgrades where I ended up selling my dolo. The freehubs that work easily would be a replacement wheel off a Minnesotta 3.0 fatbike. More difficult ones include lacing up an ebay/alibaba quadro 190mm fatbike hub, or using a 170mm wide fatbike hub and bending the rear triangle in some. You can also buy complete 170mm fatbike wheelset. Unfortunately, the price for parts/labor for all these starts to outweight the cost of buying a fatbike from online/used.


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## Jake Yerly (Nov 2, 2015)

what size are the dolo pedals?


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

9/16

Standard mountain bike, or road bike thread size.


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## Jake Yerly (Nov 2, 2015)

Another question since I’m new to the bike... for those of you that have mounted a new 3 gear sprocket on the front how did you mount your wires and such since there aren't any pre fabed spots for them? Also what derailor have you all used for the front 3 gears? Sorry if my bike jargain isn't up to snuff... thanks in advance


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

geeze said:


> Any update on these hubs? anyone build wheels with them yet?


It's been two weeks since I laced them up to my huffy's rims which are the same rims on the Dolomite. These hubs roll just like the unbranded ones on my Gravity Bullseye Monster and it is really nice to have a rear disc brake now because I hated the rear rim brake. The bike rides better and faster, no more freewheel leading to bent axles, and quick release upgrade. I can't notice any difference with my GBM because I have the vee missions tires on both bikes. I ride my fat bikes 5 days a week 6 hours a day taking deliveries to a university campus and my huffy rides so good now that I stopped using my GBM. The frame is aluminum and the bike weights 39 lbs now and the last things I have to replace are the heavy stem and handlebar.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Luis_fx35 said:


> It's been two weeks since I laced them up to my huffy's rims which are the same rims on the Dolomite. These hubs roll just like the unbranded ones on my Gravity Bullseye Monster and it is really nice to have a rear disc brake now because I hated the rear rim brake. The bike rides better and faster, no more freewheel leading to bent axles, and quick release upgrade. I can't notice any difference with my GBM because I have the vee missions tires on both bikes. I ride my fat bikes 5 days a week 6 hours a day taking deliveries to a university campus and my huffy rides so good now that I stopped using my GBM. The frame is aluminum and the bike weights 39 lbs now and the last things I have to replace are the heavy stem and handlebar.


Link to where you bought the hub? Cost? Did you use new spokes, or did the stock spoke lengths work?


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Luis what spokes nipples did you use? Have to make any modifications to the rim?


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Link to where you bought the hub? Cost? Did you use new spokes, or did the stock spoke lengths work?


36 Holes Rear Snow Bike Bearing Hub Beach Bike Hub Fat Tire Bike Hub Free SHIP | eBay

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-wheel-spoke-length-586486-6.html

I got the spokes from Dan's Comp. I couldn't use the stock spoke because it was too thick for the hub flange hole. I ended up filing the new spokes, they turned out to be a bit longer, so I would suggest to do your own calculation and compare it to mine on the above link and round it down.

Both hubs were 84$ and they guy has limited quantity and he's out of red color.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Mods, fix this please I reposted below


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

geeze said:


> Luis what spokes nipples did you use? Have to make any modifications to the rim?


https://www.danscomp.com/products-PA...14G_Spoke.html

Sapim black 14g spokes with 16mm nipples.

The spokes came with 16mm black nipples. I should have ordered 12mm nipples because that's what I used when I measured the ERD. I wonder if filing the protruding spokes would have been necessary with 12mm nipples. The spokes were protruding anyways that's why I recommend doing your own calculation and compare it to mine on the Fat Bike Spoke Length post above and round it down if necessary.

The spoke holes on the rim were a bit bigger due to the original thicker spokes and nipples, however still smaller diameter than all the nipple heads that I tested. The nipples that came with the new spokes worked fine so washers were not necessary. I don't know if the spokes on the Dolomite are as thick as my stock spokes that came with my huffy so maybe the spoke holes on the Dolomite's rims are smaller and more suitable for 14g spoke nipples.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Is it possible to use a cartridge bottom bracket for a spindle that works with cup and cone bottom bracket? My fat bike has a 73mm bottom bracket shell and my spindle is extra long so it can clear the stays. I was about to buy the YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings used on the Dolomite but I wonder if the spindles used in cartridge bbs are the same as the spindles used in cup and cone bbs. The reason I want to do this is because my spindle is impossible to replace and huffy is the only that has a spindle that long for a 73mm bb fat bike. Huffy is sending me a new spindle for free and I would like to use a cartridge bb instead of cup and cone bb.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I don't think so. I'm pretty sure they are dedicated axles with different bearing race designs. cone and cup vs. shelved bearing race.

I don't like the idea very much, but if your stock axle bends in time and it's going to be for light duty, I'd bet a 100mm crankset would work. You use standard bottom bracket external bearings and add spacers between the bearings and frame, and more spacers between the bearings and the crankset arms. There is an increased risk of bending the crank's axle because the bearings are farther from the crank arms, but I think this is very similar to what's done with some of the super wide cranksets that have a 120mm bottom bracket. 5mm spacers between the bearings and frame on each side, and a 10mm spacer right/ 8mm left between the bearing and crankset arm, you've changed the 73mm hub to allow a 100mm crankset. I'd still be cautious about using it for heavy duty, but with a strong crankset, should work ok.

Another possibility is talking to a surly/salsa LBS. I vaguely remember that some of the early surly and salsa fatbikes that used offset 135mm rear hubs used a 73mm bottom bracket. I don't know if the bottom bracket is offset though. This might be searchable in the fatbike/surly/salsa forums, or asking in one of those forums.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

What is the total length of the spindle. And how much offset do your crank arms have. It might be possible to use a shorter spindle cartidge bb if you get crank arms with more offset. Some guys with dolomites have dented the chainstays to allow more clearance with cartidge bb but dolomite us steel and you said.huffy is aluminum? So might not be able to do.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

geeze said:


> What is the total length of the spindle. And how much offset do your crank arms have. It might be possible to use a shorter spindle cartidge bb if you get crank arms with more offset. Some guys with dolomites have dented the chainstays to allow more clearance with cartidge bb but dolomite us steel and you said.huffy is aluminum? So might not be able to do.


Sorry for hijacking the Dolo thread. The new spindle just arrived. It is 185 mm. Any ideas?


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

what is the distance from outside of chainstay to outside of chainstay at the pedals?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Luis_fx35 said:


> ... I don't know if the spokes on the Dolomite are as thick as my stock spokes that came with my huffy so maybe the spoke holes on the Dolomite's rims are smaller and more suitable for 14g spoke nipples.





Canoe said:


> [*]The 36 spokes are straight gauge. Couldn't find my dial calipers, but the plastic vernier one says the black Beast spokes are 1.6mm and the shiny steel Dolo spokes are 1.8mm.


Don't know why you want cartridge bb so bad. 
Don't install the new spindle until you have the YST cup & cones.



Canoe said:


> Stang951 said:
> 
> 
> > ...Difference after greasing and fine adjustments is insane! ...
> ...


If you go with the YST, read these.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-48.html#post11687408

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-55.html#post11740587


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

geeze said:


> what is the distance from outside of chainstay to outside of chainstay at the pedals?


176 mm at the pedals and 178 by the end of the crank arms.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Don't know why you want cartridge bb so bad.
> Don't install the new spindle until you have the YST cup & cones.


Thanks for your help guys. I also found this Sunlite bottom bracket (BB SET SUNLT EZ-OFF 1.37x24 BK ENG) on eBay, Amazon, and the Sunlite Cycling website. It is sealed as the YST cup and cone but it also has this cool look like if it were a cartridge bottom bracket. I noticed that it has more threads also like if I would have to screw it more into the bottom bracket shell. I already ordered the YST and I noticed the sellers on Amazon and EBay are running out of the YSTs. I'm would like to try the Sunlite bb as well if you think it would work.
About the bottom bracket installation. Would you recommend using Loctite when installing it? I asked the guys at my LBS why my cup and cone bb gets loose after a ride no matter how many times I thought it was perfectly installed without play and the spindle rotating freely and they told me that it has to be Loctited.

Sunlite- Products

Amazon.com : BB SET SUNLT EZ-OFF 1.37x24 BK ENG : Bottom Bike Brackets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

BB is the same thing (bearings and cone) but:
we don't know the quality, 
it takes a different tool to secure it,
Longer threads? Is your BB shell tapped far enough? (expensive tool to do that right), and
does it have a rubber seal (and does it work).

Your BB should not be moving if it is tightened to the correct torque with the correct tool: provided the threads are of good quality (which most people's experience the YST is, whereas the stock one is not; not surprised you've had issues with the stock bb).

So Loctite should not be required. If you use it, do not use the permanent type. Even using the removable type would make it more difficult to clean if you need to remove it and re-install the BB.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

the linked bottom bracket looks like it would have the same setup and function as the stock and YST cup, it just uses a the cartridge bearing bottom bracket tool to install it instead of a big a$$ wrench. Still requires adjusting for preload and using a lockdown ring. With a concern about thread depth, I'd also recommend sticking with the YST cupset.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

The way I look at upgrades is:
How much do they cost
How much time/trouble does it take to install the upgrades
Do the upgrades really add value to the ride quality/reliability.

I spent $100 for my upgrades and sold the old parts for $50. ($25 went to the Hussefelt stem)

Right now my Mongoose rides like a $600 bike and there is no comparison to the stock bike.


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## 2wTrekr (Oct 1, 2015)

AZINGER said:


> I want to get slicker tires, these knobs just don't work on pavement. Suggestions are welcome.


*Sunlite Crusher 26 x 3.5* tires 
have a smooth/textured road tread ---

Shop around and you should be able to find them for @ 70 -75 USD /pair.

They are the same design as the VEE Speedster 
(original most expensive), or 
the Captiv8er tire by Origin8 (mid-cost of the 3 listed here).

I know the post was months ago, just adding info/reference...

-----------------

Btw, anyone thinking about getting a Dolo, it really just needs a few upgrades to be rideable:

* grease everything hubs, headset, and 
while greasing the BB make it a *YST* set (upgrade)

* *Sunrace* *13-34T freewheel* (or similar)

* *cruiser/comfort saddle 
* (examples: Selle: Respiro, Eclipse (moderate), Serfas: Rx, Nashbar: SC-1 )

* *Tires : Sunlite Crushers* 
(for lighter weight, especially with Surly Ultralite tubes or Q-tubes 
and for better/fast-rolling road/pavement ride),

*Tires: 45NRTH Hüsker Dü* tires or similar for all-around use

*** I think the stock knobbies (on the newer-model Dolos)
are _actually good for winter: _
their added weight helps with traction,
and the big chunky lugs are great for snow

Get other upgrades for the bike as you like or can afford them:
cranks/crankset, pedals, seatpost, handlebars/grips, brakes, etc.


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## gl21133 (Sep 14, 2015)

Posted this in the deal thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-great-deal-thread-948598-3.html#post12316354

Got mine and assembled it today. Some expected jagbaggery (slightly cross threaded but fixable brake mounting screw, a couple busted reflectors, etc.) but everything was straight and once adjusted, rides well. Planning on a couple weeks of riding as is, then a crank/chainring, lever, shifter, bottom bracket, and possibly cassette. Should be able to get it where I want it for under $250 all in. I'm ok with that.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

I've read most of this thread over last year, wrenching on my gift-Dolomite. I just spent enough time praising it in the "should I buy my boyfriend a bottom-end bike?" thread that I want to share it here.

I've ridden about 5k miles in the Colorado mountains on my road bike but haven't been able to ride it much the last few years. My wife saw me eyeballing fat bikes and bought me the Mongoose Dolomite from Walmart for Xmas, $210 shipped to my front door.









This is a really early pic riding the Erie Single Track. I've done about 200 laps here on my Dolomite, effectively converting me from a roadie to a full-time-fattist. The above bike is almost all stock, the shifters, seatpost and saddle were replaced.









This is my Dolomite at its best. The only stock components are frame, wheels, tires, and tubes. 

Fizik Gobi M5 saddle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZW8EFM
Origin8 Pro-fit 400mm seatpost - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B7K5Q
XLC QR seatpost clamp - Amazon.com : XLC QR Alloy Seatpost Clamp, 31.8mm, Black : Bike Seat Clamps : Sports & Outdoors
Wellgo SPD pedals - parts bin
Ultimate Alloy Single Speed 33T crank - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUPD93S
YST Sealed BSA Cupset - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0ETE
Shimano MF-TZ31 megarange freewheel - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RLNOKC
Shimano XTR M972 9-speed shadow clutch rear derailleur - $60 used on craigslist (it never worked very well with the SL-M310)
Shimano Acera SL-M310 7 speed shifter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZM9RX6
Truvativ 60mm stem - parts bin
XLC 640mm riser bar - Amazon.com : XLC Mountain Bike Handlebar, 30mm, 640mm, 31.8, Black : Riser Bike Handlebars : Sports & Outdoors
Origin8 Pulsion lockring grips - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00288JF26
Avid DB1 brakes, levers, and rotors - Amazon.com : AVID DB 1 DB1 MTB Hydraulic Brake Set Front and Rear Black HS1 160mm Rotor 2014 : Bike Brakes : Sports & Outdoors

All told I spent about $380 upgrading this bike and had a ball the whole time, being fully converted to fat in the process. Trailblazing, offroading, riding wherever was always the best experience on this bike. I serviced every piece, packed every grease. This bike never got a flat tire of any kind, and I rode over the tops of cactus and through fields of goathead thorns. Riding it was the greatest confidence I ever had on or in a bike.

In September, due to the shifting trouble I was having between the M310 and the M972, I decided to try to go to a 9 speed DNP Epoch freewheel with Deore 9speed shifter. When I pulled my rear wheel I discovered the rear axle was bent, and after about a week of trying to find a replacement axle I gave up with great sadness and bought a Boris FS X9 - Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM. I've cut 10+ seconds off of all my Strava times on the Boris, but after my third major mechanical failure on the trail with it yesterday, I just don't like it that much. This morning I ordered the Night Train Bullet - Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM.

Hopefully I'm not now-trapped into an infinite purgatory of bike swapping, always looking for that original Fat High.

This post is a memorial to my sweet Dolomite who served me so well. Thanks for reading.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

thomcom said:


> I've read most of this thread over last year, wrenching on my gift-Dolomite. I just spent enough time praising it in the "should I buy my boyfriend a bottom-end bike?" thread that I want to share it here.
> 
> I've ridden about 5k miles in the Colorado mountains on my road bike but haven't been able to ride it much the last few years. My wife saw me eyeballing fat bikes and bought me the Mongoose Dolomite from Walmart for Xmas, $210 shipped to my front door.
> 
> ...


So how much total, including your wife's original gift, have you now spent on Fat Bikes?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

Well, I have four fat bikes now, including a great deal I got on a Framed Minnesota 2.0 for $450 on craigslist:

Mongoose Dolomite (bent axle): $650
Framed Minnesota 2.0: $450
Boris FS X9: $1199
Night Train Bullet: $1799

This is a small portion of the bike quiver, I also have a wife and four kids.  We have too many bikes. I will probably build the Dolomite into an ape-hangery Tour de Fat bike, now.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Since the dolomite is steel, I'd bend the frame a little and lace up a 170mm hub to the rim and spokes.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

2wTrekr said:


> *Sunlite Crusher 26 x 3.5* tires
> have a smooth/textured road tread ---
> 
> Shop around and you should be able to find them for @ 70 -75 USD /pair.
> ...


I bought a set of the Sunlite Crusher tire in April and have been very happy with them. Of course I do 100% paved and cinder path riding and they are perfect for it(especially for around $70 on Bay).. Bob


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Hello, newb here.

I've nothing to offer about tires nor anything else about fatbikes. On the other hand I've read almost every post in this thread!

My wife is buying me a Mongoose Malus for my birthday, and it should arrive within the next week.

I've already emailed a lbs to ask what their hourly rate is and what they would charge to assemble the bike.

To give you an idea, we live on the east coast of North Carolina and the biggest hills we have are the bridges over the ICW.

That said, I would like to know what I should expect to pay to have the Malus assembled. I also asked the lbs about replacing the bearings in the BB and the headset.

Please bear with me; I'm about to turn 60 years old and have NO experience working on bicycles.

Also, should I immediately change to the Sunlite Crusher tire and the Mega gears?

Thank you.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Having someone who knows what they're doing assemble it is a good idea, as they can examine the bike and see if there is something defective and you need to exchange it right away. It also ensures that nothing is loose and the brakes are properly (safely) adjusted. 

I would highly recommend that no one ride the bike until everything is greased. You should have that done as part of the assembly: inspect, clean and lube rear wheel bearings, front wheel bearings, bottom bracket and headset bearings. Don't be surprised if they find metal debris in the bearings, just clean it out and inspect; this is why you DON'T RIDE IT until that is done as with metal debris or incorrectly adjusted or ungreased these cheap bearings can easily and quickly be destroyed. 

I'd strongly recommend the YST bottom bracket bearings and nothing else; it has a great track record. Others can be hit and miss. The YST is $7 to $10 for the part, and you're 99 44/100% sure it will work well.

Apart from that, I'd hold off until you ride the bike, see what it does, and have time to do some more research (big difference in different tires, for dry vs wet vs snow vs ice). For example, Kanard tires are a sweet ride for pavement, bike paths, many trails and make an excellent rear in snow. Nice for front too, but there are better if you're willing to pay for it if you get into it. Watch out for the tires that have many small squares for treads: they pick up small stones and fling them all over; drive you nuts. Make sure you spend your money once, not on getting something that you'll just end up replacing a short while down the road. 

Also, different people need different gearing to make the bike pedal easily/appropriately for who they are and what they'll be doing with the bike and where. Once you determine the tires (and tubes), get them installed, ride them for a while, THEN check back on how to determine what changes in gearing would be appropriate. For some people, changing the front chainring to an appropriate size and sticking with the stock rear gears does exactly what they need. 

To aid others in advising on tires and gears, you say no hills. Pavement, bike paths, trails, wilderness? What about the weather you expect to ride in? Your approximate weight? How many minutes to you expect to spend out on a ride?

Paying for assembly and upgrade work can add up. Check if there's a bike co-op near you.


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

C-Gypsy said:


> Hello, newb here.
> 
> I've nothing to offer about tires nor anything else about fatbikes. On the other hand I've read almost every post in this thread!
> 
> ...


Welcome to the forum, There's always 2 ways of looking at things. 1, make all the changes now because it will cost less to assemble the bike once with correct parts or 2, wait to fine out if "you" need those mods. I run the Mega gear because I run a Bafang mid-drive motor on my Dole. But if your gear cluster is the same crap they put on mine then change it now. I'm sure it will help anyone's peddling.

I would also try doing the work yourself. Where will you ride that you feel you need smoother tire? Bob


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Canoe,

Thank you for taking the time to offer such an informative reply.

I have NO experience with a fatbike. Some years back I saw one outside of a business in Morehead City, NC and fell in love with it. Beyond that I have nothing to offer.

We have no hills to speak of. Most of my riding will be on pavement or pavement with a light coating of sand. I know of no trails around here, but will be asking around.

It snows less than one foot per year in this area. I concede it rains a lot.

I am a few weeks shy of turning 60. I weigh 200 pounds and am grossly out of shape. My reason for wanting a fatbike is that hopefully it will inspire me to do some riding and ergo get into better shape and lose some weight!

Never heard of a bike co-op but I will pursue that possibility.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Bob,

My riding will mostly be on pavement, and it is FLAT around here! I'm from PA and am used to lots of hills and a few mountains.

I'm not sure what to expect with the Malus; I've read so many good reviews and almost as many bad reviews. 

I think I could put the bike together myself; I used to work on cars all the time. But I'm concerned about replacing bearings in the headset and BB. I've never worked on a bicycle.

Al


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

C-Gypsy said:


> ... We have no hills to speak of. Most of my riding will be on pavement or pavement with a light coating of sand. I know of no trails around here, but will be asking around.
> It snows less than one foot per year in this area. I concede it rains a lot.
> 
> I am a few weeks shy of turning 60. I weigh 200 pounds and am grossly out of shape. My reason for wanting a fatbike is that hopefully it will inspire me to do some riding and ergo get into better shape and lose some weight!...


The bike as it comes geared can be difficult to pedal. As in, it's work. Do be careful about doing too much at first. You will benefit from better tires, for: reducing the rolling resistance, reducing weight, and better grip. Once you select and get some time on your new tires, you can decide on gearing. In the meantime, if you can find a bike co-op, find out the tooth count of your Malus front chainring; I'd swap in a mountain bike tripple chainring into the front (22T-32T-42T) so you can manually switch between 32T and 22T (easier) as a means of trying out different gearing. It also gets you 22T right away, so you can be riding easier sooner.

As you won't be doing snow (and likely not sandy beaches?), you don't need the 5" fat tires; the 4" (typically 3.7", 3.8") will do fine, roll easier and weigh less. Same for their tubes. A 26x3.8" 33 TPI would be a sweet tire, but they're around $70 each.

The fat tires easily bounce over obstacles, like curbs. BUT, at 200lbs and a freewheel hub, there's a good chance of bending the rear axle. You shouldn't have to treat it with a kid glove, but if you're like me, resist throwing these low-end bikes around if you want the parts to last.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

There are various videos out there that detail how to. Park Tools web site has some advice too (the links on the first page of this tread are broken now, and their site isn't as complete for the older/cheaper designs). You will need a few key tools to get the wheel bearings correctly torqued, same for the BB. If you've wrenched on cars, you should be able to handle these bikes. The information on how-to is out there.

For an example, take a look at the two links at the bottom of this post. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-85.html#post12297993


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

C-Gypsy said:


> Bob,
> 
> My riding will mostly be on pavement, and it is FLAT around here! I'm from PA and am used to lots of hills and a few mountains.
> 
> ...


There are only 2 things you are talking about changing that would require a little talent. #1, changing the gear set. For this you need a gear removal tool and a vice helps. I bought my tool at the bike shop for under $10. It took me about 3 minutes once I removed the wheel. Lots of YouTube videos. #2, properly adjusting the brakes. Their cheap and hard to adjust. I changed to Avid-7s. Again, lots of YouTube videos.

As for greasing the bearings (all of them) my 13yo granddaughter could do it. So I'm guessing you can too. Again, look at YouTube. I'm assuming that your bike will have a straight tube handlebar tube which is as easy to work on as they come. The important thing is how tight to make it. But that's also on YouTube.

Canoe is correct about tires with the small square holes for threads. They do pickup tiny stones. But I bought them the same day I ordered my bike. So they are the only tires I've ridden with. Honestly, the stone problem has not been a problem for me. But then that me. Because I ride on hard top trails I ride I tend to run 30 to 35psi in them. I find they handle better and I use less battery power. For softer riding just lower the pressure. But I would stay above 20psi for handling. If your bike has the same stock tires/tubes as my Dole had my new tire reduced the overall bike weight almost 9lbs. Weight is only important to me because I car rack my bikes to the forest preserves. I'm pushing 69yo and my riding buddy is pushing 71yo. So lifting the fatty onto the rack can be a small challenge because I do it alone. Remember the motor adds 12lbs too. So with my tire/tube change plus alm. handle bars and crank gear I made up for the added weight of the motor. My max speed on hard pack motor only is 26mph. A few mph slower then my other bike (29) with the same setup. But I really prefer the fatty.

I also bought a suspension fork. But it raises the bike way to high and is in my opinion "over kill" for how I ride.

Bob


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

I thank everyone for their replies. 

My new Malus should arrive on Wednesday. Initially I told my wife I would assemble it myself, but I am waiting to see what the lbs tells me about assembling it for me.

Bob ~ I agree with your thoughts about having things done when the bike is assembled. The lbs is 35 miles away. I want to speak with them about the Mega freewheel and perhaps have it installed when they build the bike.

Canoe ~ I've done some checking and there is no co-op anywhere around here. This place isn't the end of the world, but you can see it from here! You mentioned the rear axle; is there a better one I should consider? Also, will the VP-BC63 fit the Malus (Dolo) without extensive work and expense? Is it a better option than the YST?

And to everyone I will apologize in advance... I will probably drive everyone nuts with my plethora of questions in the next few days (and beyond)!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Ask away with any question. Only stupid question is the one you don't ask, and "should I buy a specialized?"

I'd also recommend building it yourself. It's actually pretty easy, you can always start over if you make mistakes, and nothing worse than having something mess up on a ride and not knowing how to fix it. If you already have normal tools, the only ones you really need are a spanner wrench crank arm puller, and a lock ring wrench.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

According to the supplier, the VP-BC63 does not fit. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-9.html#post11100414

Which "Mega freewheel" do you propose they install?
The Alpine ones give an easy granny gear, but are not the first choice for most people. 
There's also an 8 speed choice. 
Look at the following link, you'll see there's a reason I gave you a path for upgrades. As in, research and select your tires first. Then we'll talk gearing. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-77.html#post11955154

If you do it yourself, you will need the wrenches for the wheel bearings, the tool for the bottom bracket, the tool to remove the crank arms. Plus some grease.

If you want to change the freewheel, you'll need the socket for that.

New rear axle means new rear hub, which means you should be going for a freehub, not a freewheel, as they're a lot stronger due to where the loads go. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-54.html#post11731705
And now you're into rebuilding the wheel. But you have a much large selection of gears available. 
But, given the type of riding you anticipate, I don't expect you to have an issue with the rear axle, unless it is defective.

Something cheap that helps the brakes: Avid FR-5 Brake Levers. Typically $12. I got the speed dials, completely unnecessary, just an indulgence at double the price.

WATCH OUT that you don't end up going down the huge rabbit hole of nickle and diming yourself with unnecessary upgrades. Solve problems, make the ride safer, easier or more enjoyable, but watch out for excessive spending.



floorguy said:


> ... All the upgrades did was have me spend money trying to make it something it wasnt. ... I wound up selling it with all the upgrades for a loss, ...


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Again, thanks to everyone.

I am looking at the 14-34T Mega 7 freewheel. Your thoughts?

Please know I am not planning to "tinker" with this bike. I just want to get it set up "right" the first time it goes to the lbs.

My wife & I live in a second story condo in NC. I have no garage nor shop to work on the bike. Nor do I have a desire to work on the bike. I'm just trying to get it set up right to begin with and then ride it when I can.

I've already been thinking about better brake levers Canoe. And I tend to agree with you; at 60 years old I am not going to be "bashing" this bike around. The stock axle will probably last longer than I can ride it!

I spent well over a month trying to decide between the Gravity Monster and the Malus. To be honest I can't afford to spend the money on a Gravity and when I saw the Malus on sale for $209.99 I ordered it (it's a gift from my wife).

My questions now are basically directed at parts the might fail quickly. I want this bike to last as long as possible with as little maintenance as possible.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

C-Gypsy said:


> ... I am looking at the 14-34T Mega 7 freewheel. Your thoughts?...


Do you mean one of the Shimano megarange 13-34T freewheels or a _____?
I need you to be very specific. There are differences and they can matter.

But the real difficulty is, until you get the tires & tubes you will be using (so you're testing with their roll resistance, not the stock tires/tubes), you don't know how difficult it is for you to pedal that bike/tire/tube combo with the gears that will come with the bike: so how do you choose gears that provide different gear ratios to solve that unknown problem?

A correct setup for you may require different gears in the rear and a different chainring in the front, and possibly a different chain length. You don't want to spend money twice.

For example: if you discover you only use the easiest five gears, then we know those gears result in a particular gear ratio. The new setup wouldn't need to provide gear ratios that are harder than those you use, so changing the front chainring to a smaller ring would shift the rear gears down to an easier gear ratio range. If the stock chainring is 36T and you swap it for a 28T, then it would be like trading the two hardest gears for two easier gears. If you swapped a 36T chainring for a 22T, then it's almost like trading the four hardest for four easier gears.

The other way you could approach it, would be to choose a rear freewheel gear set that is better quality than the stock one, and has a nice progression of gears (no alpine gap to the easiest granny gear). Then once you get your tires & tubes, see which gears you use and which you don't, and then change the front chainring to trade the gear ratios you don't use down to easier to pedal gears.

You can plan to spend money in progressions (bike assembled with cleaned/greased/torqued & YST; tires & tubes; gears), and get what you need buying each part once. Or you can spend it all at once and hope your best guess will give you what you want and you won't have to spend more money on parts and labour to correct your choices.

Sorry, but with heavy fat bikes and fat tires, the gearing matters, and needs to be tuned to match bike/tires&tubes/type-of-riding/rider.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

And you may not have noticed throughout the forum, is that tire pressure has a huge effect when riding fat bikes (typically 6 PSI to 12 PSI, but it can range from 3 PSI to 20 PSI). As you're expecting to be on pavement, that is greatly simplified: start with 15 PSI. You may be able to increase that a bit, to get less roll resistance, but you need to maintain a good contact patch between the tire and the ground, particularly when it's wet.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Canoe, I appreciate the time you are taking to help me. Obviously you know A LOT more than I do; especially given the fact that I know nothing about bikes/fatbikes.

I am referring to the Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed) but would appreciate your input.

I am thinking of going with the Avid FR-5 Bicycle Brake Lever Set and the YST Sealed BSA Cupset w/Bearings English Threads.

Initially I am thinking of changing the tubes but keeping the factory tires. I might not need 5" tires, but that is what attracted me to fatbikes to begin with.

This village is approximately 1 mile from end to end. Riding to the hardware store is less than a mile. The old grocery store is 1 mile and our Walmart Express is just over a mile.

My hopes for this bike is that it will encourage me to RIDE to those establishments as opposed to driving.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

One more thing to consider... My wife has a heavy bicycle (with panniers). She prefers riding slow.

I mention that because I don't think I'll need "fast" gears. Just something to ride comfortably and not be too hard to peddle.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

1 mile rides. Good to know. 
But we don't want you to have a heart attack because it takes too much effort to pedal.

That's a good quality freewheel. Which I like, and fits what you're after. But it's an "Alpine" gearing, which I don't.

The stock gears are likely 14-28T (14-16-18-20-22-24-28T). A nice progression, allowing you to select a gear most suited to the effort you have to put in. That Shimano goes to 34T instead of to 28T. So it's going to be easier to pedal at 34T than at 28T. However, you lose the 28T, for 14-16-18-20-22-24-34T. So there's a gap, a big gap, going from 24T to 34T. Fat tires are both heavy and taller, so they need more leverage to pedal. So that gap is likely going to show up right where you're going to want to pedal. You're better off with the stock progression, and I strongly expect that you're going to end up needing a smaller front chainring to provide more leverage for easier pedalling.

I have a gear-inch chart I prepared before (to compare to the 8-speed), showing the Alpine gearing gaps and how a nice progression rear gearing provides for many choices in the range that you'd actually use. 
Lower gear inches are easier to pedal. Higher is harder. 
To compare, at the very bottom, those last four are common gearings desirable for fat bikes. 
For example, the easiest on a stock Dolo is ~38 GI. With a 22T chain ring, the 28T provides 23 GI.

At the top of the chart, you see five different front gears driving a 14-28T (14-16-18-20-22-24-28T). So when you get your Malus, you can count the teeth on the chainring and see where your bike's gearing sits. 
The next set (blue background) shows Dolo gearing with a triple 22-32-42T chainring. 
Then you get to see (beige background) the Alpine gapped 14-16-18-20-22-24-34T, where there's a large gap instead of a selectable gear. 
Then the green backgrounds show you a variety of examples using an eight speed freewheel, but the takeaway on this is the number of choices that can be had between 20 gear inches and 50 gear inches, depending on the front chainring you choose. 
Look it over to identify the gaps (lines in the yellow background set) vs. a good progression vs. having lots of choices at the lower numbers. Notice that there are a number of front chainrings available (watch for cost), so the gear ratio one gets can be adjusted downwards as necessary.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

C-Gypsy said:


> Bob,
> 
> My riding will mostly be on pavement, and it is FLAT around here! I'm from PA and am used to lots of hills and a few mountains.
> 
> ...


Bringing up some conversation from earlier. If Gypsy is riding mostly flat stuff, the stock gearing will most likely be fine. That 28T in back still has some grunt in it. It's just on the hills that you start feeling it.

Even with it being in an apartment, you can still assemble it there. Doesn't take any more room to assemble it than it takes to store it. My biggest concern with the 2nd story apartment is dragging it up a flight of stairs. This is a 50lb big unwieldly beast to carry up and down stairs. I think that'll be a bigger workout than riding it to the store. If it's going to be left outside, make sure you spray some WD40 inside the frame every now and then to prevent rust. A proper frame rust preventer would be better if you plan on riding in wet/salty conditions. Should only cost about $15 and they can spray it in the frame when stuff is apart.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

watts, was your comment directed at me? Upgrading the wheelset is where I stopped with the Dolomite, just since any upgrade is 2-3x the cost of the bike itself. Putting a new $80 hub in the rear wheel does seem like a good way to get it rolling again. Why 170mm?


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Even with it being in an apartment, you can still assemble it there. Doesn't take any more room to assemble it than it takes to store it. My biggest concern with the 2nd story apartment is dragging it up a flight of stairs. This is a 50lb big unwieldly beast to carry up and down stairs. I think that'll be a bigger workout than riding it to the store. If it's going to be left outside, make sure you spray some WD40 inside the frame every now and then to prevent rust. A proper frame rust preventer would be better if you plan on riding in wet/salty conditions. Should only cost about $15 and they can spray it in the frame when stuff is apart.


The bike will NOT be brought inside! At the bottom of our stairs there is a place to park bicycles that is protected on 3 sides.

I've decided (with the help of another forum member) not to do any upgrades to the bike until it needs them. There's a reason I am getting the Malus; I can't justify spending a lot of money on a bike I may not ride very often!


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

C-Gypsy, I have to agree with Canoe on the mega gear. I have the Shimano 14-34 and there is a big jump from 1st to 2nd gear. No problem in my case because I'm motorized. But for peddling it maybe to much. I'd see how the stock cassette goes first. As for brakes all Avid brakes are good but as I remember some are easier to setup. The Avid-7 is as best I know the easies and not a lot more cost. But again try the stock first. Caution: Changing the complete brake set can be a fair size job. The biggest problem I ran into was the cheap mounting screws that were to tight and stripped the head out. I had to grind a square on the head so I could use a wrench instead of a star bit as is normal. Bob


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

C-Gypsy said:


> ... I've decided (with the help of another forum member) not to do any upgrades to the bike until it needs them. ...
> I can't justify spending a lot of money on a bike I may not ride very often!


Finally!
It's great to say you want everything done at once, like swapping in new/better gears, but until you ride it there's no way you can choose a correct solution until you encounter issues as it presents to YOUR riding.


The exception to that is a full inspection, cleaning, greasing and proper torquing of all of the bearings, to prevent those bearings getting destroyed if the bike arrives with metal or other contaminants or over-torqued, and just to make them last so you don't have to replace them in a year or two. 
For long life and to make it nicer to pedal, the above should include the YST bearing for the BB. It's a ~$10 part and it's simple to swap in when the cleaning & regrease & proper torquing is done to the BB. 
And since the wheels will be off to service the bearings, consider two nice tubes, to lower the weight and the rolling resistance. This isn't required, but it's a cheap way to make the ride easier, more enjoyable, thereby increasing the likelihood that you'll ride, which is the whole point of your getting the bike. (and you'll have the stock ones as spares)
(As you'll be on pavement, you won't be riding at 6 PSI, so no need for the big heavy bulky tubes.)
It's nice to get quality rear gears at the start, but how much riding before they wear out? You've paid for them, get your money's worth. Easy enough to swap in a replacement if they break or wear out. And that Alpine gearing you were looking at is not the way to go. You want a nice progression so you can select a gear that suits your riding, so you'll ride more.

If you need easier gearing so you actually use the bike more, then a smaller front chainring is the easy way to go, no new chain required (possibly shorten it). Nothing wrong with a used one either.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Go4itfatty said:


> ... As for brakes all Avid brakes are good but as I remember some are easier to setup. The Avid-7 is as best I know the easies and not a lot more cost. But again try the stock first. ...


But he's riding on the flat, around town, cruising. Properly adjusted (and the stock cable may stretch so it needs to be readjusted a few times before it stops slacking off), the stock brakes _should_ do fine.

New levers are a comfortable indulgence; just feels more like it's going to stop, not leaving you hoping it will actually stop. $12.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Thanks Bob. I'm keeping a list of the upgrades you folks recommend and just added the Avid 7 brakes.

For the time being I've decided not to do anything but assemble (and grease) the Malus, then go ride it. The only items I plan to add are a speedometer and possibly a seat (which I won't know until I ride it).

With tax I believe this bike is costing me $224.00 (give or take a few cents). I can justify that much money just to see if I ride it on a regular basis.

After I ride it a while I will make a decision on whether I should start adding some upgrades or just sell it & purchase a better bike (possibly the Gravity Bullseye Monster).


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Thanks Canoe. I appreciate your suggestions.

It is obvious you know a LOT about bikes and enjoy working on them. On top of that you're probably a young whipper-snapper with a garage or a workshop!

I'm at the opposite end of that spectrum; I know nothing about working on bikes. I'm an old geezer and have no shop or garage in which to work.

I appreciate every suggestion you have made, and have a Word document in which I documented your suggestions.

Al


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

thomcom said:


> watts, was your comment directed at me? Upgrading the wheelset is where I stopped with the Dolomite, just since any upgrade is 2-3x the cost of the bike itself. Putting a new $80 hub in the rear wheel does seem like a good way to get it rolling again. Why 170mm?


It was. I had to go back to see what I said and to who to make sure I knew what I was talking about. The 170mm hub is just because it's more common, easier to find axles, and you can get wheelsets pre-laced/built with tires off bikeisland. they'll be the same quality as what's on the other bikesdirect bikes. I'll leave you to determine if that's a good or bad thing. Somebody else on MTBR with a huffy fatbike linked to a 190mm quandro hub that wasn't too bad a price. That rear axle bending seems to be the tipping point when people decide to keep the bike or upgrade. It proves that you ride it hard enough to get a better quality one.

there have been many discussions about how to replace the axles, and none of them were cheap. Only good way is bending it back. Really wish some random guy on the other side of the world would make a 10mmx1.0 threaded rod long enough for the dolo hub.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

C-Gypsy said:


> ... It is obvious you know a LOT about bikes and enjoy working on them. On top of that you're probably a young whipper-snapper with a garage or a workshop!...


Surprise! I'm 55. And the Dolo is in my front room getting the tires switched over for winter.

But I do have access to a bike co-op in town, where they have bike mechanics available to guide people working on their own bikes, along with proper bike tools. Makes all the difference when you need something done you don't know how to do it yet.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

watts888 said:


> It was. I had to go back to see what I said and to who to make sure I knew what I was talking about. The 170mm hub is just because it's more common, easier to find axles, and you can get wheelsets pre-laced/built with tires off bikeisland. they'll be the same quality as what's on the other bikesdirect bikes. I'll leave you to determine if that's a good or bad thing. Somebody else on MTBR with a huffy fatbike linked to a 190mm quandro hub that wasn't too bad a price. That rear axle bending seems to be the tipping point when people decide to keep the bike or upgrade. It proves that you ride it hard enough to get a better quality one.
> 
> there have been many discussions about how to replace the axles, and none of them were cheap. Only good way is bending it back. Really wish some random guy on the other side of the world would make a 10mmx1.0 threaded rod long enough for the dolo hub.


That's actually a really good point, something I hadn't considered with the cold-settability of the steel frame. Thanks! Framed Minnesota wheels are notably better imo than bikesdirect wheels and are ~$140 for one. And they have cool colors  Now that my fat quiver has exploded I might build a fleet of "come ride with me" bikes.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Laughing... At 55 you're still just a young pup! Give it 5 years and you'll know what I mean. 

There are no bike co-ops around here and the lbs seems a little expensive to me.


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## C-Gypsy (Nov 7, 2015)

Which rack works on the back of the Dolomite? I've seen pics of fatbikes with racks on the back and what looks like matching racks on the front. 

Preferably one that would do double duty as a fender (not expecting the same results of a fender).


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

C-Gypsy said:


> Laughing... At 55 you're still just a young pup! Give it 5 years and you'll know what I mean.
> There are no bike co-ops around here and the lbs seems a little expensive to me.


I was injured by a surgeon letting his student perform surgery on me 15+ years ago. Instead of declining, I'm actually getting better as I get older - weird, but welcome. No idea when the inclining will intercept the declining.

I get a few WTF when those gathered around the fat bike see me get on it and ride away. Or hopping up obstacles and away over grass or fields (better when the obstacle is a high snow bank; I'm 160 lbs., the axle is fine - so far). Even more fun when someone offers that there's a huge Dolo thread at mtbr - if I want to know about my bike. Particularly if we're right beside the creek where I shot the first photos: _"didn't you recognize the creek? Or the tennis ball?"_, dive away to a hanging jaw.

Here, the LBS charge between $80 and $160 for assembly-tuneup, depending on how much will need doing (if cleaning/packing bearings, new brake lines, etc.), with this year many changing that to $120 to $160. The quality of work is not equal between LBSs. They really don't like doing the cheap bikes, as they don't want the blame for their defects, weak welds or cheap bearings that tend to poorly tolerate normal use or abuse; they'll only touch them if they're certain that you understand what you're dealing with, so you won't blame them.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

thomcom said:


> watts, was your comment directed at me? Upgrading the wheelset is where I stopped with the Dolomite, just since any upgrade is 2-3x the cost of the bike itself. Putting a new $80 hub in the rear wheel does seem like a good way to get it rolling again. Why 170mm?


36 Holes Rear Snow Bike Bearing Hub Beach Bike Hub Fat Tire Bike Hub Free SHIP | eBay

Price went up 10$. Used to be 89$ a set. Now 99$ a set

Whole set hubs: You choose
Front: 150/135mm
Rear: 170/190mm

PROS:

Price
Quando brand (same hubs on the Gravity Bullseye Monster)
Keep your Dolo rims and get spokes from Dan's Comp
Great opportunity to learn how to build wheels

CONS:

36Holes only
Limited quantity

The difference between the Gravity Bullseye Monster hubs and this set is the Quando logo in the middle of the hub. The rubber seals on the GBM's hubs have the Quando logo on them but not in the middle of the hub like this set. How do I know this? I own a white pearl Gravity Bullseye Monster 


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## ttakata73 (Feb 9, 2012)

Do those Quando hubs have sealed bearing cartridges or loose ball bearings?


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

ttakata73 said:


> Do those Quando hubs have sealed bearing cartridges or loose ball bearings?


I don't know, the seller replies questions when you ask. He said ball bearing hub. For that price a set, anything will be better than the dolo stock hubs.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

Luis_fx35 said:


> 36 Holes Rear Snow Bike Bearing Hub Beach Bike Hub Fat Tire Bike Hub Free SHIP | eBay


Thanks for the recommendation! I'm kinda more inclined to go this route: On Sale Framed Pro 190 Rear Wheel (MN 3.0, AK Alloy) to resurrect my Dolomite. $50 more and I get a #3 lighter wheel, probably.

At this point I might build the Dolomite back up and give it to my dad for xmas.

The new hubs would be a great lesson in wheel building, something it is about time I get involved with. None of the cheap wheel truing stands on Amazon will fit a 190mm


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

thomcom said:


> Thanks for the recommendation! I'm kinda more inclined to go this route: On Sale Framed Pro 190 Rear Wheel (MN 3.0, AK Alloy) to resurrect my Dolomite. $50 more and I get a #3 lighter wheel, probably.
> 
> At this point I might build the Dolomite back up and give it to my dad for xmas.
> 
> The new hubs would be a great lesson in wheel building, something it is about time I get involved with. None of the cheap wheel truing stands on Amazon will fit a 190mm


Haha, I found that wheel after I laced my wheels. I would have gone that route also. Easier route if you don't have time to build wheels and if you don't have a truing stand. I built my wheels using my bike frame upside down with zip ties on the stays, it took me a whole day and six pack to finish, but the satisfaction was priceless, I felt really good after all that work.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Luis_fx35 said:


> I built my wheels using my bike frame upside down with zip ties on the stays, it took me a whole day and six pack to finish, but the satisfaction was priceless, I felt really good after all that work.


My preferred method actually. I spent a couple hours at a LBS open shop night just chasing around the spoke tension. took it home, flipped it upside down, and started plucking spokes like guitar strings. Finished with equal tension in about 5 minutes. Easier to tell which ones needed tightening and loosening. Zip tie really does work great for truing the wheel too.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I find the pluck method only really works efficiently once you've got it tensioned fairly close. Getting it to that point, and true, happens faster with following a consistent tensioning procedure. And once true and tensioned, to avoid a taco under a good hit, you've got to know it's actually tensioned enough to take the full loads. I've gotten a surprise or two from a spoke meter where I thought the tension was already at the optimum wheel strength, but it had quite a ways to go; different spoke lengths, thicknesses, crosses. 

And the all important stressing it as you go, to set the spokes correctly, otherwise as soon as you start riding and they set and your tension drops. And not necessarily evenly, so it may not even remain true.


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## 2wTrekr (Oct 1, 2015)

Go4itfatty said:


> I bought a set of the Sunlite Crusher tire in April and have been very happy with them. Of course I do 100% paved and cinder path riding and they are perfect for it(especially for around $70 on Bay).. Bob


Yeah, the 'Speedster/Captiv8er/Crusher'-type tires for the Dolo are generally 
instant weight-loss and speed-gain on pavement 
(especially affordable with the Crushers)...

However, as Canoe has mentioned, their tread design can tend to pick up fine gravel/debris...a good pavement fat-tire to mitigate that would be the 
Surly Black Floyd (26 x 3.8)...but they are a bit more expensive...
I'll leave it to you, to decide if $70 Crushers now (and pair-of Floyds 
@ 180-250 USD later) are worth it, or just Floyds (instead of Crushers) to begin with, lol...a decision I struggled with...suffice it to say I am currently still 'Floyd-less'...for a pavement tire, get them (or the like) _'first,'_ if you can afford it...
any of the various hardpack/ low-pro knobby-style treads are good, 
especially versatile tires too: 
45NRTH Hüsker-Dü, VEE-Mission-Commander, etc, etc.

"value/utility" vs. "cost management"


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## 2wTrekr (Oct 1, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Since the dolomite is steel, I'd bend the frame a little and lace up a 170mm hub to the rim and spokes.


I thought about doing that, since I have a 135/170 set for my Gravity "27.5PLUS"...
I opted not to (so far), because I thought the 190 dropout on the Dolo would be better for 5" (or near 5") tires...I bet a 5+ tire could be run in the Dolo, 
*if* one swapped the 7-sp FW, for a 5- or 6-sp, with a spacer on the hub


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

Axiom Fatliner Fat Bike Rear Rack Black 26" Fits Disc Brake Up to 5" Tire 110lb | eBay

This is the rack I bought and used for a short time. It's 100% alm. but still adds a few lbs. I used it to mount 32lbs of lifepo4 battery packs on the back of the bike. Add a 12lb. motor and my 215+ fat butt made for a heavy load of the rear axle. And no I never broke an axle. But I have slimed down by going with a new smaller lion pack relocated to the mid-frame and removing the rear rack. Bob


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## Benskoning (Nov 11, 2015)

Hello,
I am a broke student looking for a first fatbike and this seems like the one. Can I have a list of must do upgrades for this bike? Particularly for weight saving during summer/winter riding and light racing. I have read a large portion of this thread but with 87 pages it is easy to miss things. Also, what is the weight of one stock rim? I am looking for a replacement instead of attempt to drill them out/maybe ruin them.
Thanks,
-Ben


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Benskoning said:


> Hello,
> I am a broke student looking for a first fatbike and this seems like the one. Can I have a list of must do upgrades for this bike? Particularly for weight saving during summer/winter riding and light racing. I have read a large portion of this thread but with 87 pages it is easy to miss things. Also, what is the weight of one stock rim? I am looking for a replacement instead of attempt to drill them out/maybe ruin them.
> Thanks,
> -Ben



Which bike is "the one"? In this thread there's the Dolo, a Hitch (with lots of reported problems), and a Malus (a slightly updated Dolo). 
Upgrades will depend on what, where and conditions you'll be riding in. 
"light racing" concerns me some. These are extreme budget bikes. They come stock, usually suitable for riding (provided you clean and grease everything) and geared for cruising, but they are not suitable for the sport of fat bike riding (as in, won't do it well, or depending on what you plan to do you can even be a risk to yourself and others) unless you do a lot of upgrades, which usually mean that by the time you pay for the upgrades you could have had a better bike by taking the total dollars and getting a stock bike that is closer to what you plan to do.
Go to the very first post and check weights at the post links provided. (There's also a list of common upgrades people do for improving the ride).
Why so concerned about the weight of the rim?
Depending on the tire that comes with the bike, and where/conditions you'll ride, you will want to upgrade the tires. There are some budget solutions, carefully chosen there are better choices than others, but to get into those suitable for racing or more technical rides, a pair of those tires will cost you more than the bike. Taking us back to point three above.
Do check out this thread ...
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbikes-under-$1000-bucks-937739.html


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Benskoning said:


> Hello,
> I am a broke student looking for a first fatbike and this seems like the one. Can I have a list of must do upgrades for this bike? Particularly for weight saving during summer/winter riding and light racing. I have read a large portion of this thread but with 87 pages it is easy to miss things. Also, what is the weight of one stock rim? I am looking for a replacement instead of attempt to drill them out/maybe ruin them.
> Thanks,
> -Ben


If you don't want to wait go to Academy and buy the Mongoose Malus for $199. Or go to Jet.com and search for Mongoose Malus for $219 apply promo code 20NOW during check out and get it shipped to your door for $175.

You are welcome 


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## Benskoning (Nov 11, 2015)

Canoe said:


> Which bike is "the one"? In this thread there's the Dolo, a Hitch (with lots of reported problems), and a Malus (a slightly updated Dolo).
> Upgrades will depend on what, where and conditions you'll be riding in.
> "light racing" concerns me some. These are extreme budget bikes. They come stock, usually suitable for riding (provided you clean and grease everything) and geared for cruising, but they are not suitable for the sport of fat bike riding (as in, won't do it well, or depending on what you plan to do you can even be a risk to yourself and others) unless you do a lot of upgrades, which usually mean that by the time you pay for the upgrades you could have had a better bike by taking the total dollars and getting a stock bike that is closer to what you plan to do.
> Go to the very first post and check weights at the post links provided. (There's also a list of common upgrades people do for improving the ride).
> ...


OK, I realize I did not provide enough information.
1. Dolomite/Malus (was unaware of its existence)
2. light/medium snow (nothing more than 2ft)
3. I would be racing a few endurance events (50-100 mi) as I would like the extra fatbike challenge, I would also overhaul the group set for the most part.
4. Done
5. decrease rotational weight. The rim is probably the quickest weight saving method
6. I will certainly upgrade the tires and maybe even go tubeless.
7. Done, My budget is less than 300 USD, I have a discount shimano parts and don't include them in the bike cost.

I hope this will provide more answers. 
-Ben


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

Benskoning said:


> OK, I realize I did not provide enough information.
> 1. Dolomite/Malus (was unaware of its existence)
> 2. light/medium snow (nothing more than 2ft)
> 3. I would be racing a few endurance events (50-100 mi) as I would like the extra fatbike challenge, I would also overhaul the group set for the most part.
> ...


Ben, go immediately to Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com and buy the Mongoose Vinson with the CYBER25 25% off coupon, for $300. It is tons more bike than the Dolomite, and has an aluminum frame, etc. The Dolomite is not suited for your requirements list, the Vinson potentially is. I just bought one for $292 because it is an irresistably good deal!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Benskoning said:


> ...
> 5. decrease rotational weight. The rim is probably the quickest weight saving method
> 6. I will certainly upgrade the tires and maybe even go tubeless...


#5 = *waste of time*, as a percent of bike or wheel, that reduction is negligible
#6 is where you save your rotational weight AND reduce your roll resistance.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

thomcom said:


> Ben, go immediately to Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com and buy the Mongoose Vinson with the CYBER25 25% off coupon, for $300. It is tons more bike than the Dolomite, and has an aluminum frame, etc. The Dolomite is not suited for your requirements list, the Vinson potentially is. I just bought one for $292 because it is an irresistably good deal!


*THIS !!!* 
(even though I'm OP of this thread) 
As you obviously have an interest in the Sport of fat bike riding.

If there's any way you can swing the price (watch for shipping costs), you're a lot closer to meeting the requirements of the SPORT of fat bike riding. It's a whole level up from a Dolo/Malus.

If you've got any components that are better than what comes stock on a Vinson, then put your parts on it and sell the stock ones.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Benskoning said:


> OK, I realize I did not provide enough information.
> 1. Dolomite/Malus (was unaware of its existence)
> 2. light/medium snow (nothing more than 2ft)
> 3. I would be racing a few endurance events (50-100 mi) as I would like the extra fatbike challenge, I would also overhaul the group set for the most part.
> ...


Vinson is a good bike for trails and racing, great bike if you can get it for $300. The dolo is for fun cruising on the road/beach/gravel at higher tire pressure. It's heavy and slow, but it's a really fun cruiser though.

If you weight less than 150lbs, you probably won't bend the rear axle of the dolomite unless you really ride it hard. If you weight more, you risk bending it if you actually plan on "racing" this bike. If you're over 200lbs, guaranteed bent rear axle. Since the rear axle is almost impossible to replace, get the better bike. And the vinson is a good 10 pounds lighter, at least, than the dolomite.

End of the day, you can throw a bunch of money at the dolo, and it's still a heavy gas pipe steel frame with heavy freewheel hubs. Get something with a cassette/freehub on the rear wheel, and an aluminum frame.

Drilling the stock wheels will save a little weight (~ 1/4 lb per wheel), but swapping the tires and tubes out will save a lot more (~4-5 lb per wheel). Of course, the cost of new tires plus the dolo would be more than a good bike to start with. And tubeless with the dolo rims is almost impossible unless you add in enough extra rim foam strips to negate any weight savings. The rims just aren't built for a tubeless setup.


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

watts888 said:


> Vinson is a good bike for trails and racing


No. No it's not. You're not doing anyone any favors by blowing smoke up their ass. These are bargain basement, less than entry level bikes. Using it beyond its capabilities is going to get you hurt.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The $300 bike is junk, says the man with the $9,000 23lb carbon fiber race bike. In comparison to a $9,000 bike, yes, it is junk. It's a damn good $300 bike though. It'll survive a race, and so will the rider.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

thomcom said:


> Ben, go immediately to Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com and buy the Mongoose Vinson with the CYBER25 25% off coupon, for $300. It is tons more bike than the Dolomite, and has an aluminum frame, etc. The Dolomite is not suited for your requirements list, the Vinson potentially is. I just bought one for $292 because it is an irresistably good deal!


This is an incredible deal I couldn't resist even tho I already have my Gravity Bullseye Monster and my completely rebuilt Huffy Excess. So yes!! I clicked and it is on the way to my front door. I'm going to start building a garage just for my fat bikes at my back yard. I can't wait to ride it ?!!


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## Silentfoe (May 9, 2008)

watts888 said:


> The $300 bike is junk, says the man with the $9,000 23lb carbon fiber race bike. In comparison to a $9,000 bike, yes, it is junk. It's a damn good $300 bike though. It'll survive a race, and so will the rider.


Weak research. Did you also learn that I'm a high school mountain bike coach? I am asked my opinion on what bike to buy on a near weekly basis. I also own several, wonderful, old bikes just so that I can show the kids that it isn't about the bike. What it is about is quality. I fight tooth and nail to keep the kids from buying a bike that will only hinder them or at worst hurt them. The used bike market is a wonderful thing. Sometimes as well, you just don't have enough money to justify spending it on a fat bike. Be patient and save up. Even $600 will buy you a much better fatty than one of these things. Save up even more and for $1000 you can grab a nice used fatty. Definitely better than throwing money at junk, as you called it.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Silentfoe said:


> Save up even more and for $1000 you can grab a nice used fatty. Definitely better than throwing money at junk, as you called it.


You like to show up every few months and throw sand in our faces. We like our cheap bikes and like to show folks things they can do to enjoy fat biking without spending a lot of money.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Silentfoe said:


> Weak research. Did you also learn that I'm a high school mountain bike coach? I am asked my opinion on what bike to buy on a near weekly basis. I also own several, wonderful, old bikes just so that I can show the kids that it isn't about the bike. What it is about is quality. I fight tooth and nail to keep the kids from buying a bike that will only hinder them or at worst hurt them. The used bike market is a wonderful thing. Sometimes as well, you just don't have enough money to justify spending it on a fat bike. Be patient and save up. Even $600 will buy you a much better fatty than one of these things. Save up even more and for $1000 you can grab a nice used fatty. Definitely better than throwing money at junk, as you called it.


I still like how I have not seen a single catastrophic Dolo failure, yet on this Forum alone I see carbon frames cracking all the time being recalled. You should go into some of those threads and enlighten those buyers of what will hinder/hurt the riders.


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## IEatBacon (Nov 24, 2015)

Hey everyone, I recently just got a Mongoose Malus. I noticed that Kenda Juggernaut 4.5 inch tire would fit the dolo according to a member. Is there any pictures of it on the bike? Also would the Malus have any clearance issues?


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## donohugeballs (Dec 17, 2015)

Does anyone know the torque spec for the front axle nuts on the Dolomite? Standard 25ish lb-ft?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It's a standard threaded nut. Just tighten it up. 25 lb/ft torque will be more than enough, but if it's not, tighten it up some more.


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## blidner (Jan 19, 2015)

Hey, I've recently removed a bunch of oem from my mongoose Vinson. The drivetrain and fork are available for short money or trade. The drivetrain has a shimano mega range cassette and the brakes upgraded levels.Tires too, but it's rather prohibitive to ship cost wise. If you have interest shoot me a pm


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## svezel (Dec 22, 2015)

I ordered a Dolomite from Target to use in the snow which got delivered to me last week. I didn't bother riding it long before starting to modify it as the gear ratios are useless for anything other than street cruising, the saddle tube way to short (I'm 6"3), the brakes and shifters not so great etc

Got a Sunrace e-bike 13-32 freewheel, a Cube saddle and grips and a longer seat tube for less than $50. Then I had some old Promax hydrolic brakes, Deore 8 speed rear derailleur, Alivio 8 speed triggers and Acera crankset (mixed with 22 - 38 chainrings) lying around which I've also fitted and the bike is already lot of fun in the snow.

What I would like to do now is fit a front derailleur but don't want to spend too much as this bike is obviously a budget build. Are there any cheap options for doing this? Spending $40-50 on Problem Solvers FS1325 clip spacer and $20-30 for the derailleur seems a bit steep as its more than I've spent on all the other upgrades combined. Has anybody tried a bottom bracket mounted derailleur or any other cheaper options? I have some old clamp derailleurs lying around which would be nice to use but they will obviously have to be modifed to come close to the chainset but who doesn't love a good diy.

I've also been looking at some new lighter and grippier tires and that is probably where my modding will end. The Kenda Juggernauts seem to be pretty cheap and at less than $50 a piece for 26x4.5 it seems like a steal. Whats the best budget tire for snow and should I focus on getting wider tires for snow riding or is "4 wide enoug?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Personally, the front derailleur isn't worth the cost for the dolo. You need to change gears up front when going from road to snow, stop, grab the chain, move it, and go. If you're really adamant, there are some people who did it. search the post or the first post might have an updated link to what works. someone actually clamped a second pipe to their seat tube to attach a front derailleur to. Looked like it worked for cheap, but once again, is it really necessary.

for tires, on a 100mm rim, the 4" stock tires at low pressure will work in the snow, especially if you have the newer tires with traction tread instead of the old road/beach tread. Will the 4.5" juggernauts work better? of course they will. do you want to spend an extra $100 for the tires? up to you.


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## svezel (Dec 22, 2015)

I was able to get an e-type deore/lx front derailleur from chain reaction cycles for 5GBP (less than $7) and will see if I can't mix it to work on the dolo.

I have the newer tires and they are actually not that horrible in the snow at low psi (5-10) so I'll just run them for a while. If I can score some decent folding tires I'll probably bite the bullet and buy them, at least for the huge weight savings. But for now with some minor mods I think this is quite a fun bike for the money and a fine entry into the world of fat biking.


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## IEatBacon (Nov 24, 2015)

I ended up buying a pair of Kenda Juggernauts 4.5" and got them installed by my LBS. there was no fitment issues on the front fork at all, still looks like there was room. In the rear the tire faintly rubs on the left side of the frame, looking at it closely it looks like the excess rubber from manufacturing is the only part that is hitting the frame. I will post pics of the bike as soon as I can.


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## IEatBacon (Nov 24, 2015)

Here's the pictures as promised.








went for a ride last night



































I noticed that the tire faintly rubs on the right and left sides of the frame. The tire was inflated to 30psi. Once I deflated the tire to about 20psi I noticed that it stopped rubbing on the frame. It probably doesn't help that I'm in the 295lb weight class  But at least I'm down from 308lbs from when I started riding. Hope the pictures helped.


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## svezel (Dec 22, 2015)

Man those tires look beefy and cool on that. Good job mate and thanks for the pics


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## IEatBacon (Nov 24, 2015)

svezel said:


> Man those tires look beefy and cool on that. Good job mate and thanks for the pics


Thanks man, it is fun to ride. Hope the pictures help your decision for the tires.


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## tpalshadow (Dec 29, 2015)

I'm struggling to read through all the posts here and have a quick question. Do the upgrades for the Dolo/Malus apply to the Hitch? I've seen a lot about how they are made by different companies and also that the Hitch is 5 or 6 pounds lighter. That would be the advantage I see. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

They'll be very similar. Most of the parts are the same, and use standard bike part sizes. Only real differences are the types of tires used and a different fork. I think the Hitch has a different style of brake rotor mount on the hub, but everything else is similar.


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## tpalshadow (Dec 29, 2015)

OK, thanks...and by type of tire used, you just mean the brand of tire they come with? Or is there a fundamental difference beyond that?


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Luis_fx35 said:


> If you don't want to wait go to Academy and buy the Mongoose Malus for $199. Or go to Jet.com and search for Mongoose Malus for $219 apply promo code 20NOW during check out and get it shipped to your door for $175.
> 
> You are welcome 


I stumbled onto this deal back in November, glad I did, got it for $176 to my door. Fun bike so far.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

*New Dolomite owner here*

Hello I am relatively new here. Just bought a Dolomite after going snow shoeing to prep for next seasons MTB racing. After seeing the nicely maintained trails for fat bikes I went to the lbs to talk new bikes. I was disheartened to see that the cheapest they had was $1400.00 and the one I liked was 2100.00 I told the bike shop guy I would just take my 29er up to the mountain next week. He told me I would be kicked off the trails if I was caught with any tires less than 3.75" wide. After coming home degected I began searching online for a cheap fat bike to make me legal for our local trails. I found an article that mentioned the dolomite. Then eventually found this thread. Long story short less than one week later I now have a Dolomite. Found it on craigslist for $150.00 poor guy didn't have a good description of the bike and no picture so it wasn't selling for him. I swooped in an bout it. Put new handle bars, avid brake levers, GT stem, clipless pedals, and new seat on it last night. Took it to work to adjust and clean it up. Plan to ride it for the first time on Saturday. Here is a pic after I cleaned it up. Bike now weights 46.2 lbs. After this first ride I will determine what to do next but thinking it will likely be brakes as these things are not working well so far just trying to get adjusted.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Keep in mind, whatever you do to the dolo, at the end of the day, it will still have a freewheel in back. The axle can bend and replacement axles are next to impossible to find. If you do jumps or weigh more than the average bear, look for a different bike or rear wheel.

However, if you just want it for smooth snow, it's a lot of fun. Do you have the old smooth centered tires or the knobby ones? If you have knobby, just lower the pressure and ride. If you have the smooth centered ones, kenda juggernauts or floaters would be my next purchase.

Any brake is better than the stock, but if set up properly the stock will work. They'll just wear out in time due to lower quality build. They basically start developing some slop when used heavily. With an upgrade, new levers are a must. The stock plastic levers are junk and even cheap $5 alloy ones are better. If you swap the calipers, be warned, the stock Jak5 brakes used a proprietary (ie. oddball) size caliper mount adapter. Whatever brakes you use, try to get them with mount adapters too.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks for the good advice watts888. I don't plan to be jumping and the trails I will ride are very well maintained. They are almost like a smooth side walk through the woods. At least they are when it is very cold out side. We just got a few inches of snow so i suspect the trails will be a little loose tomorrow but no rocks or logs even to have to cross. I do have a question though.
As I stripped my old GT for parts I tried to install the Truvativ cranks on the Dolo. The right side crank fit fine but the left one with the sprockets seemed to be too thick. In other words there wasnt any threads sticking through for me to tighten onto. Is this common with some cranks sets?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I had a similar issue putting some truvativ cranks on mine. I didn't trust the number of bolt teeth that were engaged to hold it. I decided to use the stock cranks, which are actually relatively lightweight for the arms, by cutting off the steel chainring and chainguard, but leaving the arms. I bought a 5-bolt 28T chainring, drilled holes in the arms and bolted it up. The gearing was a little high for snow, but it worked. 25T would have been better, but I couldn't find one that low in a 5-bolt pattern.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

I put Avid DB1 hydraulics on my Dolomite and they fit perfectly and transformed the bike - plenty enough power to stop its 48# bulk! I saw Dilligaf or RUBZERK post an ebay link to $65 DB1s - that's a tremendous deal.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

I rode the Dolomite for the first time today at Happy Jack Wyoming. We had about 4" of fresh snow on the trail that some people had backed down alittle bit with snow shoes. I had to park and enter the ride at the bottom of what is normally a moderate hill climb in the summer. Parking at the top of the hill was clogged sue to a ski race. I rode from the lower parking up to the upper parking it was 1.2 miles of misery. I believe I am on a quest to find a smaller front chain ring now. Thanks watts888 for the idea to buy a smaller sprocket and drill. I had 2 riders pass me on the hill climb as I was walking the bike. When I did get back on the bike I quickly caught up to them. This is when I noticed my lowest gear was way faster than theirs which caused me to get off and walk when they were able to continue riding. The snow was thick enough that I barely used the brakes so no input there but I trust they will not do the job once the trails are more packed down again. Also at least the rear tire needs to be swapped for something with more straight line "forward" traction as any time I had to climb or get out of the saddle at all there was no more traction to be had. I did record the ride with a front and rear mounted camera. The front camera failed to record. I did get a decent video of me coming down the hill but it is facing rearward. I will post this video and share it later. Also I plan to film my ride next weekend as well hopefully thing swill go better.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

what tire pressure were you running? in that much snow, it should be down below 5. Some people say they use down to 2psi in the deep snow, but I know I couldn't do that.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

watts888 said:


> what tire pressure were you running? in that much snow, it should be down below 5. Some people say they use down to 2psi in the deep snow, but I know I couldn't do that.


Honestly I forgot to check before I rode. As I rode I would stop and reduce pressure did this several times. Since I have been home I haven't looked at the bike. I still believe the pressure is too high though.


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## gl21133 (Sep 14, 2015)

I searched unsuccessfully, I'm guessing the answer is in here but I can't find it. I live right up against the foothills so I opted for the megarange (this one) to get the granny gear for climbing. Put it on this morning and the chain is not playing nice with the 34T. It will initially get on just fine, but then it starts riding half a link off, on the big ring but not actually seated. I've played with adjustments on the shifter (switched to an Altus trigger) and the derailleur ends without any change. Is a longer chain in order? Or something else?


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## Go4itfatty (May 4, 2015)

gl21133,

That's the same freewheel I'm using. But I have a 34t crank sprocket (and mid-drive motor) so my chain length is going to be different then yours. But the adjustments should work out the same. I am using the stock derailleur and twist shift. First set your chain length so when in 1st gear the derailleur arm is pulled forward about 35 degrees from a straigh down posision. That will allow it to be long enough to make the 1st gear happy while not making the chain to long for the 7th gear. 

Note; it's easest to do your adjustment with the bike upside down. To adjust the chain possioning on the sprockets you need to start with the highest (7th) gear. Put your shifter in 7th gear while turning the cranks. Check that the chain is in a straight line between the 7tyh gear and the crank sprocket. While turning the cranks slowly shift downward to lower gears. There are 2 small screws on the derailleur. One is for adjusting the high gear position and the second is for adjusting the lwest gear position. It will likely take a few attempts to get things just right. But mine worked out perfectly. 

I recommend going on YouTube and look for videos on “how to adjust a derailleur”. You should find a good one that will help you. Just be careful what screw is the high gear vsing the low gear. I've setup a lot of derailleurs and I still confuse them. Of course not all derailleurs are the same.

Good Luck, Bob


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## gl21133 (Sep 14, 2015)

Thank you sir, I may give it a shot. Oddly enough when I took it for a ride it behaved quite nicely. Shifted way down into the granny without issue, so maybe all is well after all.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If it's shifting up but coming back down or riding on the teeth, sounds like it's just a minor shift cable length adjustment. Could also be a B-screw adjustment issue and not getting enough clearance between the 34T ring and the derailleur.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

If this worked right then this should be a video of my first outing with my dolomite. The front facing camera stopped working as I left the parking lot so sorry that this is all rear facing. Still fun video though.

[video]https://www.facebook.com/brian.duncan.75054/videos/1239214666093471/?theater[/video]


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## crossnut (Jan 5, 2016)

love this thread! the dolomite rules,it's the most fun i've had for $249


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## gl21133 (Sep 14, 2015)

Since making the upgrades I've put a number of miles on the Malus. I'm determined to ride every day this year, 18 and counting, probably 15 on the fatty, so 75ish miles. It's just a lot of fun, not a trail monster but definitely worth what I've got into it.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

gl21133 said:


> . I'm determined to ride every day this year, 18 and counting, probably 15 on the fatty, so 75ish miles. It's just a lot of fun, not a trail monster but definitely worth what I've got into it.


Thats a GREAT goal. I did that one Month, and it was a challenge, but totally worth it. There were a couple days that I only rode a couple miles, but that still made a difference. The biggest issue I had was balancing work, riding, and 3 kids!


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

gl21133 said:


> Since making the upgrades I've put a number of miles on the Malus. I'm determined to ride every day this year, 18 and counting, probably 15 on the fatty, so 75ish miles. It's just a lot of fun, not a trail monster but definitely worth what I've got into it.


Awesome!

What upgrades have you done? I keep looking at upgrades that would make it nicer (i.e. better brakes, etc) but then I'm like...na...it's fine how it is. The weight certainly makes me work but that's what a off-season training bike should do


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Mabrodis - The best upgrades are almost all in the wheels. Tires, tubes, holes drilled, etc. You can take a TON of weight off that way.... but its not cheap.


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## gl21133 (Sep 14, 2015)

blown240 said:


> Thats a GREAT goal. I did that one Month, and it was a challenge, but totally worth it. There were a couple days that I only rode a couple miles, but that still made a difference. The biggest issue I had was balancing work, riding, and 3 kids!


There have been some late night (and cold) rides thus far, but I've been able to get at least a couple miles each day. 6+ miles is the goal which should be cake when it warms up. Had one sick day too, that was miserable but doable.



mabrodis said:


> Awesome!
> 
> What upgrades have you done? I keep looking at upgrades that would make it nicer (i.e. better brakes, etc) but then I'm like...na...it's fine how it is. The weight certainly makes me work but that's what a off-season training bike should do


I did brake levers, shifter, grips, bottom bracket, pedals, and freewheel and added lights. I couldn't stand the gripshift, which necessitated the grips, and new levers were only $12 or so more so why not. All told I'm still in it under $250, got a smokin deal on the bike through Jet.com a while back. Considering bars, saddle, and maybe a hand swappable set of front cogs, but it's doing just fine for now.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

I upgraded to a friction shifter, adjustable stem,trekking bar,3 piece (28,38,48 crankset,lights,brake pads,saddle,cup holder,cargo rack. I use it as a commuter bike !

What upgrades have you done? I keep looking at upgrades that would make it nicer (i.e. better brakes, etc) but then I'm like...na...it's fine how it is. The weight certainly makes me work but that's what a off-season training bike should do [/QUOTE]


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

I've done a bunch of cheap upgrades: stem and long post drop shipped from Taiwan; YST bb; Vuelta cranks to get the low gears; new cassette; new flats, bars and grips that I had in the parts box; replaced the grip shift with a dirt cheap trigger shifter. I have a set of Hayes HFX9 brakes that I am going to swap on to it because I can, when I do that I'll replace the rotor bolts just because.

I had it out a week or two ago and am looking to ride this weekend, very fun bike! Especially for the price: because I got reimbursed by my insurance for physical fitness expenses, I only have about $120 in it!


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Gearsof Eden said:


> If this worked right then this should be a video of my first outing with my dolomite. The front facing camera stopped working as I left the parking lot so sorry that this is all rear facing. Still fun video though.
> 
> [video]https://www.facebook.com/brian.duncan.75054/videos/1239214666093471/?theater[/video]


Cool video, can I get a picture of you camera mount set up?


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

Sure I plan to ride again today I will snap one for you.


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## svezel (Dec 22, 2015)

I picked up a pair of On One floaters for about 40USD + plus shipping etc a few weeks ago and sold the old ones for about the same, so free upgrade 

What a huge difference this makes, its just a completely new bike which now finally rolls like it should. Best upgrade by far!

Too bad the snow had pretty much all melted away here but it started snowing here on Monday and its getting pretty covered so I'm looking forward to riding it to work tomorrow.

Now I just need a front derailleur adaptor and I'm done.


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## Gearsof Eden (Jan 8, 2016)

*Second real snow bike outing with the Dolomite.*

I have now install the 34t mega range which helps a lot but I need to be able to go to a smaller front chain ring and some better tires if I plan to keep hitting these trails with this bike. Also brakes are more like a suggestion rather than a true stopping force.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

I bought a full Mongoose Vinson wheelset for $125 yesterday! Dolomite rebuild to commence immediately - the goose shall ride again!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Congrats, have fun with the rebuild!

I just got done putting a set of Hayes HFX 9 hydraulic brakes on mine, complete with new rotors. And bolts: those original rotor bolts live up to their reputatation as a world class PITA to get off. The rear wheel bolts were 5/6 completely stripped, front was 2/6. From the factory. Well, ya get what ya pay for...the "new" brakes work great, mushy Hayes braking is a lot better than the cable-actuated OEM brakes, at least I'll have a little modulation. Going to take it out to a rocky, hilly trail tomorrow, should be a hoot.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

Where did you get the vinson wheels?


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## BabyT (Jan 31, 2016)

Gearsof Eden said:


> I have now install the 34t mega range which helps a lot but I need to be able to go to a smaller front chain ring and some better tires if I plan to keep hitting these trails with this bike. Also brakes are more like a suggestion rather than a true stopping force.


Funny seeing another Wyoming member on here! I ordered a dolomite off amazon last week for $207 shipped. My tacoma is currently down for engine work so I need a way to get around town/campus. I have a road bike that I barely ride and have been wanting to sell it for a cheap MTB to just mess around on when camping. With bike thefts on campus I am happy to have found a fun, cheap bike that I won't cry about if someone steals it or knocks it over.

Anyways, I ordered the megarange 34t and a new chain to go with. I'll probably do a fun rattle can paint job when I get some free time. I am a tinkerer by nature (hence why my truck is broke) so I was stoked to find something cheap with some potential to mess with it. I have never worked on my own bike before so it should be a fun learning opportunity for me.

If you see another dolo rolling around be sure to give me a wave :thumbsup:.


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## thomcom (Nov 9, 2015)

geeze said:


> Where did you get the vinson wheels?


Craigslist. I'd sold a fat bike that very morning and wasn't really looking to buy more bike stuff, but when a $125 full set of Vinson wheels appeared on craigslist I just had to jump on it.


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## blidner (Jan 19, 2015)

I am pretty sure I saw a set in the fat bike trader on Facebook


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

My rear wheel/drive train has been making some unknown noise starting halfway through my 3 day weekend ride. I took the back wheel and axle apart and the axle looks about as bent as it has been for the past 18 months(mild bend I'm about 160lbs). I think it might be my 8 speed sunrace freewheel so I ordered a new one today, I will report back with the results and a video of the clunk noise i'm getting while coasting or pedaling backwards. 

For $15 the freewheel wouldn't bug me to replace the gearing is amazing for the bike. Just hope I don't need to order a new set of wheels after season 2.


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## ididntdoit1869 (Feb 5, 2016)

Hey all, just joined the site, actually because of this thread right here. Trying to learn more about my bike and what people are doing with them. I did an adventure triathlon this summer(4 mile kayak, 3 mile trail run, 7 mile trail bike) and I hadn't been on a mountain bike in years. Mainly a road biker, but I still had the I'll Wal-Mart special stashed away so I rode it. I was amazed at the fat bikes riding up steep hills that the regular mountain bikes just slid their back tire on. So, I later purchased a dolomite. Something fun to play with off-road and during the winter when I can't ride my road bike. First thing I did was put a nice gel seat on it, I'm not going for style points. Then I changed to the trigger shifter, and new grips on it. Little underseat bag and tool kit, headlights, taillights. That's about it so far, except a fail homemade fender set I finished and immediately decided I hated last night. Looking at buying the sks grand mom and dad, anybody have those? (Havent had time to read all 90 pages) Then I really need some better tires, but havent brought myself to fork out the cash yet. Thats it for now, sorry long and horribly structured, I'm on my phone.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

So it looks and sounds like the new freewheel solved my issue of the mysterious noise I was having. Looks like I will get another season or two out of the stock wheel/hubs before I need to upgrade.

However in the week since I started hearing my freewheel noise I decided to take my little bro out fatbiking with me when he came for a visit to Vermont. Since we have no snow and last week was 40 degrees out the trail was all ice, on top of him not knowing where to put his weight and sliding out all over the place I managed to run over a tree branch and ended up getting it stuck in my rear derailleur. I noticed it right before it made a full revolution, but it was too late, it bent the derailleur so out of wack that when I bent it straight it snapped on the first pedal stroke!

Glad everything can be fixed in my basement for under $40!

Old sunrace vs new, maybe 500 miles on the original, might be classified as "hard miles", climbing trails only








Broken bent and snapped shimano altus 8 speed derailleur, new one should be here tomorrow.


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Fun times!!! I did that derailer move with a Sram X0. Not so cheap to replace...


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Video of the noise as promised

Sounded like a bent hub at first, what do I know though!

[video]https://www.facebook.com/mike.cronin.144/videos/10100576383979129/[/video]

After, nice and smooth and shiney. Also the hub, still with a slightly bent axle since day 1, can spin for a long while if adjusted correctly.

[video]https://www.facebook.com/mike.cronin.144/videos/10100576384168749/[/video]


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

blown240 said:


> Fun times!!! I did that derailer move with a Sram X0. Not so cheap to replace...


Dude that sucks, I just googled that part and that would not have been fun. My little brother (just out of college) breaks everything. i told him, "these bike are cheap and we have tons of extra parts at home so have at it." He managed to keep his dolo in one piece though!


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## blown240 (Nov 4, 2009)

Funny how when you try to break things you can't, and when you try to be relatively careful, everything breaks!


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Everything all back together mid week, had a great ride Friday. Went back out today and had to get some boots for the dog, -10 when we left with what my weather app tells me feels like -43 in the wind.









We cut our ride short today because of those conditions, but at least it was sunny.

BTW new derailleur was installed Thursday night and really needed no adjustment besides high and low screws when using another shimano, so that was nice.


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## geeze (May 31, 2012)

I have been seeing alot of wheelsets that are 150 front/190 rear. So I started looking for a straight steerer fork that would allow me to go with a 150 front hub. I see the ICT fork has a straight steerer and also is 150, how would that affect the geometry of the Dolo, since it appears have a longer a to c dimension?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Need to verify the 190mm rear wheel is a 10mm QR axle, and not a 12mm thru-axle. Adapters might be available, but something else to add $$$.

I used a salsa enabler fork on my dolo, and preferred the way it slacked out the head tube angle. The stock fork seemed real twitchy on he trail because of the short AC length and HT angle, while the enabler smoothed it out. Plus a higher quality fork was a huge difference in feel. If you're riding trails, I'd go with the ICT fork.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Hello,

I just registered to say thanks for all the great info in this thread. I'm only part way through, but I now have a big wish list for my new Dolomite. I just got it from Amazon for nearly free with points.

I've only had time to give it some twirls around the cul de sac and get it adjusted. The shifter was quite far out and the brake ferrules were twisted. Easy stuff.

The only complaint so far is that there isn't much bite from the brakes. I'm still bedding them in. If you folks think that they shouldn't get much better, please let me know so I don't have to worry.

For fun, this is how I haul around my other bike:















I received the fork mount for the Dolomite yesterday. I need to get it attached. The fork to rear wheel distance is nearly identical to the Trek, so I will have to swap mounts. No biggie there.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Here's something a little bit more on topic:









I swapped out the stock pedals for some that came with my Wife's 2001 Cannondale F600. Being a cruiser, I kept the platforms on one half for days when I just want to roll in some flip flops.

I also had some slightly rashed Icon bar ends that a friend had given me.

After that pic, I also swapped over the RAM mount from the Trek. I recently got a bit addicted to the Samsung S Health dashboard while riding. It completely killed any desire that I had for the new cycle computers. Soooooo much data, voice prompts, and music all in one spot. It kinda of ditched my plans to upgrade phones for a while longer.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tonered said:


> The only complaint so far is that there isn't much bite from the brakes. I'm still bedding them in. If you folks think that they shouldn't get much better, please let me know so I don't have to worry.


As long as they're adjusted, they'll bed in fine. Just don't touch the rotors or pads with greasy fingers. With the stock levers and brakes, I was able to lock up the front and rear brakes without problem, and I weight 240 lbs. There are two issues with the brakes though. First, the brake lever is made of plastic, which flexes (or breaks if you gorilla fist it). You'll never get firm accurate braking with a plastic lever. For about $10, you can get alloy brake levers that are much better (probably cheaper if you talk to local bike riders or get used on ebay). Second, the brakes work, but they are lower quality. In time, they do wear out. For me, after about 10 miles heavy use on mountain bike trails, I could already tell the brake calipers were getting worn out. The brake arm lever was getting sloppy, the pads shifted around inside the caliper, and the brake lever pivot was feeling loose. If I was just cruising around town, they'd probably last years (as long as they're stored inside and don't get salty/wet).


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Thanks! I appreciate the info.

I adjusted the gap on both sides, but looking closer last night, it looks like the caliper is a bit rotated. I will try to adjust that out. Like you said, the pads move around too much, so it is hard to really see what is going on.

I doubt that I will be using this bike on hilly terrain, so the components should be good enough. I do agree with you about the levers though. They're not horrible, but a full metal set would give me more action to work with.

I'm 225 and cannot lock the front with a full pull, even adjusted to the min gap to start with. Although, the disk is getting nice and hot, so . . . I'll give it more time and see.

I am spoiled with nice, but old, set of hydraulics on the other bike. Being completely sealed, the fluid stays great for a really long time and the brakes always feel great.

The Dolo will be a cruiser and always garaged, but I will keep an eye on things and looking for deals.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Final pics of the mount:

















It worked just as well as with the other bike. I did have to pull out the sidecar seat bottom due to the diameter. No biggie.

The mount was very stable, and it was a breeze to deal with the solid axle.

I can't wait to play in snow with both of these machines together. The Ural is hoot and it looks like fatties are fun also.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tonered said:


> The mount was very stable, and it was a breeze to deal with the solid axle.


For reference, the front axle of the dolomite's wheel can be replaced with a QR axle for about $10. Just need to get a 135mm rear mountain bike axle for about $5, and a QR skewer. Next time you grease the hub bearings, put it back together with the QR axle instead of the solid axle. If you find yourself taking the front wheel on and off a lot, worth it.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Thanks! I was wondering about that and was considering one of the solid axle conversions. A hollow axle would be a lot cleaner.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Last pic, I promise.

I know that many folks have moved on since this puppy has been out for a couple years. The more I mess with it, the more excited that I'm getting, esp when you see the prices of other fatties and what folks try to talk you into.

Anyway, I was playing around with the front caliper and realized the stickers were not under the paint. I'm a de-badger. I hate stickers and esp peelies.

I really liked the looks of the original. Now, I think it just looks stunning.

Oh yeah, the caliper is now in plane with the disk. New levers are a must.

Have a good one.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Hey all so I just bought my first Fat Bike! I don't know a whole lot about bikes so I have a question:

I want to make a mod to change the handlebars to Cruiser handlebars. I saw a few on Amazon, but I'm not sure what will fit and what won't. Can anyone help me?


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## blidner (Jan 19, 2015)

Anything with a 31.8 width will fit


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

blidner said:


> Anything with a 31.8 width will fit


I see 31.8 x60mm x 6d

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Overs...=1457825713&sr=1-1&keywords=31.8+stem+cruiser

will probably look very different but I love it!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Beh162 said:


> ... I just bought my first Fat Bike! ...
> I want to make a mod to change the handlebars to Cruiser handlebars. I saw a few on Amazon, but I'm not sure what will fit and what won't. ...


Which bike?

On my Dolo, the clamping diameter was the older 25.4 mm spec (ISO 1"), measured at 25.0 mm.

With getting cruiser bars, there's the bar clamping size and there's the tube diameter "hand grip" size where you'll be clamping your brake levers. Hand grip: mtn size is typically 22.2 mm, road is typically 23.8 mm. Getting new levers is a nice and cheap upgrade for these extreme budget fat bikes. (But don't get new 23.8 mm ROAD levers that don't work with your mountain bike brakes...) Avid Speed Dial levers are a nice indulgence ($14 to $40 depending on source, and model year), but overkill; the less expensive Avid standard mountain levers work great.

I'd suggest you measure your bar, to see if the clamp is the old 25.4 mm or the newer "oversize" 31.8 mm. Choose a cruiser bar that will fit the clamp on your bike, with handgrip diameter that will fit mountain bike levers.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Which bike?
> 
> On my Dolo, the clamping diameter was the older 25.4 mm spec (ISO 1"), measured at 25.0 mm.
> 
> ...


I bought the Mongoose Dolo.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Beh162 said:


> ...will probably look very different but I love it!


google images of your bike with cruiser bars


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Canoe said:


> google images of your bike with cruiser bars


Yeah I did, I'm good with it!

so I'll need to buy new grips also? Can't use ones that came? Probably something I was gonna buy anyways


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

You have to make sure that BOTH:

the bar diameter matches your bike's bar clamp size (25.4 mm or 31.88 mm; measure it), and
the diameter of the bar at the grips fits mountain bike levers (NOT road levers).


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Canoe said:


> You have to make sure that BOTH:
> 
> the bar diameter matches your bike's bar clamp size (25.4 mm or 31.88 mm; measure it), and
> the diameter of the bar at the grips fits mountain bike levers (NOT road levers).


Ok ok I get what u are saying now. The listing on Amazon isn't very specific on that. Gonna check again

ETA- it really just says clamp stem size of 31.8mm


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Beh162 said:


> ... ETA- it really just says clamp stem size of 31.8mm


So then, that listing of that product doesn't provide the bar's grip diameter. You need to find another source.

But *first*, what's the bar clamp diameter on _your_ bike. Are you looking for a clamp diameter of 25.4 mm or 31.8 mm?

With modding these things, you have to watch the total cost of what you're doing: the actual cost to complete what at the start looked like a simple mod, and the cost of all the mods you want to do. And depending on what you're doing, the costs don't always fall where you expect. Particularly when you may find used at a local bike co-op or recycle place, and with online sales, or dead stock your LBS has in their basement or attic (I got bars like the ones you linked to, in anodized silver Aluminum, for $10 at a LBS). Depending on the size of clamping diameter, and the cost of the style of bars you like, look at the cost of:

existing stem with new bar in a style you like, vs.
new stem and new bar in a style you like. 
(by new, I mean to include used sources)

And not to rain on your desire for new bars, but will the existing brakes lines be long enough (not likely), or are you going to end up having to purchase new brakes cables and sheathing/housing too. A good LBS gets that in quality and quantity, so you should be able to measure and buy two exact lengths of housing. Most LBS have Jagwire in basic black in bulk and some nice extruded cable for less than a DIY kit. Important Detail - know the exactly lengths and pay the LBS to finish the cut ends for you too! This does matter.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

And do watch out for trying to make a Dolo more than it is. That can cost a lot. With care, you can get a more enjoyable ride, and even a more capable ride, but in the end it's still a Dolo.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

I get the bike on Wednesday. I'm changing seat and handlebars that's it for now. If need be I'll buy an adjustable stem. I do know there is a high chance I have to extend my brake lines. I would need to research that a bit more as I'm not sure what will need to be done


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Canoe said:


> but in the end it's still a Dolo.


fixed that. Sexy monkey. nope


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Beh162 said:


> I'm changing seat and handlebars that's it for now. If need be I'll buy an adjustable stem. I do know there is a high chance I have to extend my brake lines.


Might need to replace the brake lines, but I vaguely remember mine being long to begin with. Not cruiser handlebar long, but long. Really have to be careful what gets thrown onto a dolo or it can quickly outcost other, cheaper, higher quality bikes.

It is fun to do stuff with the dolo and unique customization is endless. As long as you're having fun, it's worth it. If you want to set the bike up a little better for cruiser riding, I'd also get better alloy brake levers ($10),a shimano 7-speed trigger shifter ($12), and some new grips (oury grips for colored chunky grips). Maybe shifter and brake cables if the stock ones aren't long enough, but I'd test fit first. (~$20 plus you can choose the color)


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Might need to replace the brake lines, but I vaguely remember mine being long to begin with. Not cruiser handlebar long, but long. Really have to be careful what gets thrown onto a dolo or it can quickly outcost other, cheaper, higher quality bikes.
> 
> It is fun to do stuff with the dolo and unique customization is endless. As long as you're having fun, it's worth it. If you want to set the bike up a little better for cruiser riding, I'd also get better alloy brake levers ($10),a shimano 7-speed trigger shifter ($12), and some new grips (oury grips for colored chunky grips). Maybe shifter and brake cables if the stock ones aren't long enough, but I'd test fit first. (~$20 plus you can choose the color)


Yeah in all honesty I'm happy to do these small changes to it. Its going to be a learning experience as well.

ive added your suggestions to my list to check out. I really appreciate it!


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

So I bought the Shimano Acera M310 Right. Wanted to make sure I had gotten the correct one?


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Beh162 said:


> So I bought the Shimano Acera M310 Right. Wanted to make sure I had gotten the correct one?


That sounds right. Here is what I just got and it works fantastic.

Shimano Altus SL-M310 7-Speed Bicycle Right Rear Rapidfire Shifter w/Shift Cable

Example:
Shimano Altus SL M310 7 Speed Bicycle Right Rear Rapidfire Shifter w Shift Cable | eBay (I bought from that exact ad/seller)


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Cool I'm getting my new handlebars tomorrow so should start working on changing the shifter. How serious is it for a beginner?


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Beh162 said:


> Cool I'm getting my new handlebars tomorrow so should start working on changing the shifter. How serious is it for a beginner?


It's not 'hard' but there are some tips that help.

There are good writeups online (just search for 'bike shifter cable install'), however, it's overall pretty simple.

Main steps are:
1) Cut crimped end off of existing cable (they make nice cable cutters, I used some sharp wire cutters I have)
2) Loosen shifting cable holding bolt/nut on the derailleur.
3) Remove shifter and pull cable all the way out of all the housings (make sure you notice that each housing has a straight piece and two end caps with small holes in them)
4) Feed new cable through all the housings in the same order the old cable was (sometimes it's easier to go through one end, then the main tube, then remove the far side end cap to get the cable out of the tube first, then put it through the end cap, then slide the end cap onto the tube. Also make sure any little rubber/silicone pieces are put in the right places so the cable doesn't rub on the frame.
5) Make sure all the housings are in the correct locations in the frame, pull the cable snug and then tighten the bolt/nut on the derailleur.
6) Go through the process of adjusting the cable to get the shifting right. For me this was achieved by screwing both adjusters (one on the derailleur and one on the new shifter) all the way in (clockwise), pulling the cable snug, tightening bolt/nut holding the cable on the derailleur, then unscrewing each adjuster some which basically pushes the housing away and thus pulls more cable (takes up slack). Just keep playing with that until you are on gear 1 when your indicator says gear 1 and it shifts correctly with each trigger pull. You can put a crimped end-cap on the extra shifter cable if you want sticking out of the derailleur (like the one you likely cut off to start)...I didn't, infact I never have on any bike, as they serve no purpose at all in my opinion (if I'm taking that stuff off I'm replacing the cable anyway...so I don't care if it's frayed and messy).

One catch to this is that you want to start with a clean and lubed chain and clean derailleur. If it's dirty it'll affect shifting and make you crazy trying to adjust and readjust and readjust and readjust...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

performance bike has a youtube channel where they did a really good demo of setting up the rear derailure. Definately worth a search.

to clarifiy some points from above.
1. the piece he's talking about cutting off is just the little cap at the end of the cable to keep the cable from fraying. I normally just grab it with pliers to undo the crimp and pull it off. If the end gets too frayed, it's a real pain to get it back through the housing. When I first read this, I thought he meant to cut the housing. don't do that. Not worth the hassle. The stock dolomite's cable housing is actually a good housing, linear stranded compressionless housing used on most big name brand bikes. Plus, it's the right length you need, unless you're getting bigger handlebars. 

3. The new shifter might have a new cable already installed in it. If this is the case, use the new cable instead of pulling it out and trying to route the old cable through the shifter. Not worth the hassle, especially if the end started to fray.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

The Dolomite community makes me happy, good folks


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

watts888 said:


> performance bike has a youtube channel where they did a really good demo of setting up the rear derailure. Definately worth a search.
> 
> to clarifiy some points from above.
> 1. the piece he's talking about cutting off is just the little cap at the end of the cable to keep the cable from fraying. I normally just grab it with pliers to undo the crimp and pull it off. If the end gets too frayed, it's a real pain to get it back through the housing. When I first read this, I thought he meant to cut the housing. don't do that. Not worth the hassle. The stock dolomite's cable housing is actually a good housing, linear stranded compressionless housing used on most big name brand bikes. Plus, it's the right length you need, unless you're getting bigger handlebars.
> ...


Yes the new shifter does have cable attached, I think I need to run longer cable anyway because I'm using cruiser bars instead of stock.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

This is out of the box. The forks are going backwards and the break is now in the front rather than behind the forks. Had to adjust them the proper way, but is this a common issue?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Flip it. The fork should angle forward with the brake on the left. Most bike manufacturers will ship the bike like this because it fits in the box better, but it's not how it's supposed to be assembled. 

One of the reasons that people make fun of wallyworld assembled bikes. They seem to put the forks backwards all the time, and most riders don't know the difference. Makes the steering real twitchy.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Yeah I flipped it then had to adjust the clamp the other way. When I rotated it, it pointed backwards lol

Oh and my stem clamp measures the 25.4, so of course the bars I had ordered prior to finding out that it could be two different sizes is 31.8. Adjustable Stem do the trick?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just get a new 31.8mm stem. Less than $10 off amazon, and various lengths/looks available. Since you're doing the cruiser bar thing, I'd look at a 45mm short stem.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

And what is the other side measure? Is that a standard?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Beh162 said:


> And what is the other side measure? Is that a standard?


The "45mm stem" bit? That's the length of the stem. Longer stem allows narrower bars placed further forward for a similar steering feel as short stem allowing wider bars placed further back. It's a size and preference thing for steering and how it feels. The stock stem is something like 100mm long.


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

watts888 said:


> The "45mm stem" bit? That's the length of the stem. Longer stem allows narrower bars placed further forward for a similar steering feel as short stem allowing wider bars placed further back. It's a size and preference thing for steering and how it feels. The stock stem is something like 100mm long.


I actually meant the side that goes closer to fork


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

You mean the fork's steer tube clamp? That's an industry standard of 1 1/8" on almost all new. There are old bikes and some kids bikes that still use 1" steer tubes, and a couple new bikes that use 1.5" steer tubes, but basically 99% of all modern bikes use 1 1/8" steer tubes for stem clamps.

There are variations for the forks at the lower end of the steer tube, commonly referred to as a tapered fork (1 1/8" up top tapered out to 1.5" at the bottom). The dolo uses a straight steer tube (1 1/8" top to bottom)


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## Beh162 (Mar 12, 2016)

Thanks on the Above info /\

When I put the front wheel on it seems I have some light grinding of the front disc of the tire to the breaks. I can't really see where it's hitting.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Beh162 said:


> When I put the front wheel on it seems I have some light grinding of the front disc of the tire to the breaks.


Normal low quality initial setup by the manufacturer. You have to adjust the brake caliper to center it. The stock brakes allow a decent amount of adjustment though, so you should be good. Acceptable instructions for a similar brake type installation, or do a youtube search. 
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...les/techdocs/95-5018-005-000_rev_a_bb3bb5.pdf


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

With the wheel in the frame or fork, centered and axle bolts tightened: losen but don't remove the caliper bolts, gently shake the caliper to be sure it is loose and moving freely (the half moon washers in the stack allow the caliper to adjust to the disc using thjs procedure). Grab the brake lever for the brake you are adjusting and grip down on it hard. Real hard. While gripping the brake, tighten the caliper boots. Spin wheel, should be set.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

*Hi*

This is my inaugural post on this thread. and this forum. and a place holder for my "I got mine dolo post." and my dolo build up with bike checks along the way.

ok i will purchase my dolo this friday or saturday depending on when pay check clears.

I've read the whole thread every post. and book marked alot.

My purpose in my build is to build the fat bike that I want to ride. the way i want to ride it *think monster truck, work truck*

A little about me; 
I HATE MTB. i am a BMX dirt rider. I dont do day glow or spandex. . . . ever. I've not found a mtb frame that fit right or left especially suspension models.
I build my bikes a piece at a time. I build good bikes in the end. Right now I am also in the process of building my bmx bike, priority is on this one though.
I like steel frames. I distrust aluminum *it breaks* i'm scared of carbon fiber *It shatters*. in the case of aluminum i've done it in the case of carbon fiber ive seen it.
I am a carpenter professionally who always maintained and customized my own truck so no stranger to fabrication. 
I am around 35 years old 80 years in the winter and like 200 years in trailer park years *they are like dog years ya know?*

About the purposed build;

frame dolo 
Q: why dolo? A: because in the time *years* it's been around no one has busted it's frame which tells me it's been good steel. I like it's measurements as they aren't much different from my ideal long haul comfy bike measurements and from what i can tell about the measurements should be lively handling enough to cope with my riding style.

Handlebars stem pedals seat and any thing else i can change to bmx parts from kink and shadow conspiracy. * like those companies*

a diy drop seat will be added as soon as i can. why? beause it's nice to have a seat out of the way when the going gets fast and bumpy.

led lights for the rim * already have those didn't wanna put them on my bmx's crappy current rims* 
lazer space line light for tail.

Conditions the bike will be used in.

nyc traffic
beaches around nyc
forests around nyc
snow in winter.

finally yes i know that a dolo frame will never ever be an alum frame or titanium frame or carbon frame or thier weight and I am ok with the weight since i don't trust those materials at all. I also know that a fat bike isn't for jumping that's cool *i've got the bmx for that* mater of fact i'm counting on the extra weight from the dolo to help me with my legs strength.

so if you read this ramble thanks if not it's ok i only said one bad thing about you in it. and have a nice day folks.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It sounds like the dolo will fit your needs well. There are parts you'll want to replace in quick order based on new york road salt and salt spray from riding at the beach. You'll find those soon enough though, so for now ride it like you stole it.

One thing I'd start looking for is a new rear hub. The stock freehub axle bends, even on smaller curb drops, pot holes, and forest runs (assuming there are going to be some roots out there). You can ride it as is, and once it bends, just flip the axle the opposite direction (so the bend faces down instead of up). Once you bolt it to the frame, the axle doesn't rotate, and as you ride it, you'll eventually bend the axle back the way it originally was.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

watts888 said:


> It sounds like the dolo will fit your needs well. There are parts you'll want to replace in quick order based on new york road salt and salt spray from riding at the beach. You'll find those soon enough though, so for now ride it like you stole it.
> 
> One thing I'd start looking for is a new rear hub. The stock freehub axle bends, even on smaller curb drops, pot holes, and forest runs (assuming there are going to be some roots out there). You can ride it as is, and once it bends, just flip the axle the opposite direction (so the bend faces down instead of up). Once you bolt it to the frame, the axle doesn't rotate, and as you ride it, you'll eventually bend the axle back the way it originally was.


yeah i bend stock axels like you wouldn't believe. the dolo looks like it has standard but longer thread. wich is easy to replace with all thread


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

FaethoR said:


> yeah i bend stock axels like you wouldn't believe. the dolo looks like it has standard but longer thread. wich is easy to replace with all thread


If it were only that easy. The dolo uses a standard bike axle, just longer. Bike axles use a 3/8" by 26 TPI thread instead of the standard fine thread 3/8" by 24 TPI thread. You could get a metric 10mm by 1.0 pitch (standard moderning bike axles), but the 1.0 pitch is pretty rear on a 10mm threaded rod. Possible solutions would be to re-tap the axle nuts to a 24 TPI thread, which shouldn't be that hard with the right tools (keep in mind, they are hardened steel).

alternative is to get a new QR axle for a minnessota brand fatbike. They use a 190mm by 10x1.0 metric QR rear axle. A QR axle will be stronger than a straight axle too, which should help quite a bit with the hold bending thing.

there were some extensive discussion about axles on this thread, just have to search about 6 -12 months back.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

OK I contacted the manufacturer and asked what steel is used on the dolomite frame

Mongoose Dolomite is made from Q195 steel. is the answer i got. so I dug in and foound out about the steel. It is the same steel that the old murrays and huffy was made out of. which by popular opinion would mean it crap metal. how ever this is structural carbon steel. the same steel that when heat treated is used by make my own tools carpenters *like me* to make chisels and other struck upon and edge holding tools including hammers. 

so basically no it's not sexy steel or light. but it is a nice flexible non shattering easy to work with steel. It will ben before it breaks alot of bend before it break and depending on construction makes stong structures * you know the steel plates you drive over in the road* 

an aside on this metal too is that it surface rusts fast but isn't prone to the cancerous rust that eats your frame. 

you can also weld on this metal with out having to factor in any thing other than your standard concerns for the weld as in no worry that you just weakend your metal by loing its heat temper.

hope the info helps


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks guys for all the great info in this thread. I purchased a Malus for a mere $129 on Amazon a month back just to test the fat bike waters. I love this stupid thing. I have beat it to death in the past month and it keeps on rolling. I did a few mods, swapped the bars and clamp, trigger shift, Megarange, Hayes hydraulic brakes....most of the stuff I had robbed from older bikes that had seen better days so I really don't have any money in that. On order I have some 120 tpi tires and going to go 3 speeds up front if I can figure the best way. I thought I saw a crank mounted adapter somewhere, but now can't find it, ideas? 

Only thing I don't like is that it doesn't seem to use industry standard bits on a lot of things (crank and hubs are wider than most and much harder to source). I plan to upgrade for that reason when things start to wear out (and its just a bit on the small side for me), but for now I am loving it and got my moneys worth and then some already.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

That $130 malus was a steal for anyone who wanted to try out fatbiking.

If you find yourself wanting to replace the rear hub. Have to bend the frame in for the 170mm hub spacing (1cm per side) and possibly re-drill some holes in the rim to re-use the stock spokes and maintain a good spoke angle, but it's the cheapest 36H freehub I've seen.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010TSTJ...TF8&colid=1HRG8L5U4UZ84&coliid=I29NP8WBHK5UU6

I'd contact pacific sooner than later about warranty replacement for the rear wheel, or warranty replacement for the rear axle at least. Based on the picture of your log ride, good bet you've already bent the axle.


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Nice deal for $129. I thought my $175 was a good deal. My assessment is about like your's..it's not high quality but it's fun. If riding hard make sure to check your chain for wear. I ride mine very hard (steep climbs, lots of power) and just found out my chain was trashed (lubed it every ride, so was rather surprised) and one ring of my 3X crank sprocket trashed, oh well, replacement parts are so cheap...

One thing I don't like but lived with until now is the tubes having the schrader valve just waiting to get cut by the rim. Mine finally did way out in the middle of nowhere...so if going far off the beaten trail I'd make sure you have a spare tube. I'm also switching to presta tubes which have a metal stem so it can't get cut, and of course matches all my other bikes then.


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

watts888 said:


> That $130 malus was a steal for anyone who wanted to try out fatbiking.
> 
> If you find yourself wanting to replace the rear hub. Have to bend the frame in for the 170mm hub spacing (1cm per side) and possibly re-drill some holes in the rim to re-use the stock spokes and maintain a good spoke angle, but it's the cheapest 36H freehub I've seen.
> http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010TSTJ...TF8&colid=1HRG8L5U4UZ84&coliid=I29NP8WBHK5UU6
> ...


So have people actually bent the dropouts in and made that work? I thought about that, but then thought I was nuts (happens to me often)!


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

Has anyone had knee issues because the crank/pedals are so wide? Seems like the inside of my knees are a bit sore, but I also have to put a lot of extra stress on my knees because of the single chainring and hills. Hope to remedy that soon, but still worried about that 120mm BB, seems like the biggest in the biz!


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

It seems comfortable to me. Although, my knees have been sore also. The Dolo has encouraged me to get my butt off of the couch and I've been swapping between the two bikes getting more and more miles in. I can only think that my soreness is due to joints that are just way out of shape (about 10yrs of no real exercise).

Have a good one.


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

I can't say I've had issues but it is very wide. I do try to consciously think about my hip and knee alignment as I pedal though. I know when I'm pushing really hard I can somewhat feel when I'm not doing good things to my knees...usually low cadence, lots of effort, etc. Regearing has helped that for me but it's still a massively heavy bike that takes crazy effort to get up steep hills though, so there is no really getting away from it for me. I have tried recently to stand up more when I really get into the slow cadence high effort situations where I know that sitting and grinding would kill my knees.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

kendunn said:


> Has anyone had knee issues because the crank/pedals are so wide? Seems like the inside of my knees are a bit sore, but I also have to put a lot of extra stress on my knees because of the single chainring and hills. Hope to remedy that soon, but still worried about that 120mm BB, seems like the biggest in the biz!


hey i don't know how much you were riding before jumping on your fatty bike but.... i've been on a 20" bmx for about a month with narrow pedal width and the inside of my front thigh muscle was what was feeling the burn the most. those are actually the most worked muscles from biking *unless you pedal with the balls of your feet then its calf muscle*

my self personally after putting 5 miles on my dolo find that im working my glutes and the back of my thighs more. than i was on my bmx.

so from my experience and my un asked advice =P in the begining some epsom salt baths go a long way. * get manly with them use candles and enya to set the mood  *


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

oh and I gots mine today assembled greased and rode 5 miles and yup it was great. Not as much zippy dodging cars carving fun as my bmx. but.... my bmx is geared 36-14 on 20" so when i jumped into same gearing on these what 30" tires i got the speed i wanted. and it was a smooth stable speed. and its handeling was better than any other mountain bike ive been on. the wide tire really let me feel confident in turns. 

i kept telling the guys at the shop it was gonna have monster 4 inch tires and the true real life scope left all of use kinda going holly cow that is so much bigger than pictured. sand we are all carpenters used to interpreting numbers and scaling to real life size.

=)


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

FaethoR said:


> hey i don't know how much you were riding before jumping on your fatty bike but.... i've been on a 20" bmx for about a month with narrow pedal width and the inside of my front thigh muscle was what was feeling the burn the most. those are actually the most worked muscles from biking *unless you pedal with the balls of your feet then its calf muscle*
> 
> my self personally after putting 5 miles on my dolo find that im working my glutes and the back of my thighs more. than i was on my bmx.
> 
> so from my experience and my un asked advice =P in the begining some epsom salt baths go a long way. * get manly with them use candles and enya to set the mood  *


LoL! En-ya or E-nya?

One thing that I have found is that using platform pedals with a bike this heavy and with so much rolling mass is just a no-go, at least for me. Some clipped or clipless pedals really help and work those other muscles.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

FaethoR said:


> oh and I gots mine today assembled greased and rode 5 miles and yup it was great. Not as much zippy dodging cars carving fun as my bmx. but.... my bmx is geared 36-14 on 20" so when i jumped into same gearing on these what 30" tires i got the speed i wanted. and it was a smooth stable speed. and its handeling was better than any other mountain bike ive been on. the wide tire really let me feel confident in turns.
> 
> i kept telling the guys at the shop it was gonna have monster 4 inch tires and the true real life scope left all of use kinda going holly cow that is so much bigger than pictured. sand we are all carpenters used to interpreting numbers and scaling to real life size.
> 
> =)


It surprised me also. The friggin' tires measure out at 4.375in diameter. They're wider than the 4.0in tires on my sidecar, which are a hair under 4.0in measured.

Have a good one.


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

FaethoR said:


> hey i don't know how much you were riding before jumping on your fatty bike but.... i've been on a 20" bmx for about a month with narrow pedal width and the inside of my front thigh muscle was what was feeling the burn the most. those are actually the most worked muscles from biking *unless you pedal with the balls of your feet then its calf muscle*
> 
> my self personally after putting 5 miles on my dolo find that im working my glutes and the back of my thighs more. than i was on my bmx.
> 
> so from my experience and my un asked advice =P in the begining some epsom salt baths go a long way. * get manly with them use candles and enya to set the mood  *


I was asking advice! I ride often, like almost everyday weather permitting, and I ride hard, although often not too long (an hour maybe) but lots of long, fairly steep hills, so I am in pretty good shape. I am thinking it was just that I over do it on the Malus, push it way too hard for the gearing it has, and honestly, having so much fun on it I can't stop ridding. I have a Motobecane coming next week, nothing really against the Malus, she'll be my backup/loaner/sons FB. If it weren't for the fact that the parts are not easy to upgrade I might have kept her and never looked back.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

tonered said:


> LoL! En-ya or E-nya?
> 
> One thing that I have found is that using platform pedals with a bike this heavy and with so much rolling mass is just a no-go, at least for me. Some clipped or clipless pedals really help and work those other muscles.
> 
> Have a good one.


hahaha enya onya inya what ever floats your boat but mabey you want the candle snuffed out for at least one of the options =P

to be honest about clips i am newly returning to bikes but i used to ride alot when i was younger like 60 miles a day on my old 20" powerlite. and i detest clips its a personal thing *i think my feet have add. i like to ride toes heels and every thing between. i also ride in boots right now that's safety toe justin squiare toe cowboy. i use the heel to keep my foot on for down hill.

the boots also act like shin guards letting me use very grippy metal pedals *i destroy plastic pedals* i've already bent these ones in only 10 miles.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

FaethoR said:


> hahaha enya onya inya what ever floats your boat but mabey you want the candle snuffed out for at least one of the options =P
> 
> to be honest about clips i am newly returning to bikes but i used to ride alot when i was younger like 60 miles a day on my old 20" powerlite. and i detest clips its a personal thing *i think my feet have add. i like to ride toes heels and every thing between. i also ride in boots right now that's safety toe justin squiare toe cowboy. i use the heel to keep my foot on for down hill.
> 
> the boots also act like shin guards letting me use very grippy metal pedals *i destroy plastic pedals* i've already bent these ones in only 10 miles.


Top Tip on that candle thing. Hahaha!

That's cool. It is definitely a personal thing, but I do remember the first time that figured out that I could pull on the clips when getting up a hill at school. Mother of gawd, that hill was so much easier to climb in a much higher gear. But then, I did have a couple embarrassing falls at stops signs that involved clips and sandals. Thankfully, those were the early days of cellphones with no cameras to be found!

Have a good one.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

kendunn said:


> I was asking advice! I ride often, like almost everyday weather permitting, and I ride hard, although often not too long (an hour maybe) but lots of long, fairly steep hills, so I am in pretty good shape. I am thinking it was just that I over do it on the Malus, push it way too hard for the gearing it has, and honestly, having so much fun on it I can't stop ridding. I have a Motobecane coming next week, nothing really against the Malus, she'll be my backup/loaner/sons FB. If it weren't for the fact that the parts are not easy to upgrade I might have kept her and never looked back.


yeah it easy to push hard i know i am just because i have the gears to go faster now .

i will be honest i am 50 inc chest 38 waist 28 legs and 26 inch from shoulder to grip contact part of palm. i've got my seat up only a few inches 3 ish and i still have stock pedals on dolo.

with that said the burn im getting is on the out side front of thighs and inside top of thighs.

and to complete the profile yes long walks on the beach pina coladas and you know getting caught in the rain ....... =)


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

*Very Productive Saturday*

Ok So today i went to my shop and spent some quality time there ....

Just me n dolo. i took my time and set the mood with some great wrench time music and proceeded to educate her in the tao of the faethor..

My dolo came with grease proper but the cones were way waaay to tight. and it was oem grease so i degreased the wheels and put in some lucas red n tacky #2 grease. yes i know its automotive grease and not special bike uber lube. but it works very well and its so thick and sticky that i can use it as a soft seal to keep crap out of the unsealed bearings. its also water proof.

after that was done I swapped on the alpine geared mega range now for granny gear its 36x 34 =) and adjusted derailer to shift right .... and left.

then i got on with the fun mods round one. i put the lights on the rims. they kick tail =P

then i put on head light and being as i am total ******* trailer trash i stared straight into it. .... *i couldn't help it. it was shinny!*

so after my retinas recovered i consumed some alcohol and 3 out of the 4 food groups smashed between 2 buns.

then i put on the tail light lazer.

so yup thats done and as soon as i can rasel my computer interweb and uppity smarty pants phone in to submission I will post some picks

and have a nice day yall.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Curious what triple cranks people have used? I put on a Sugino (some random brand I bought off eBay) which worked great until the sprocket got trashed from a worn chain and my massive powerful legs, or at least the chain. I just replaced it with a Shimano (M131) crankset, however the chainline for the Shimano is different. The sprockets are much more inboard than the Sugino (same tapered square mount but the sprockets are spaced inboard of the actual mount point) so the chain is now millimeters from hitting the rear tire, so apparently the Shimano M131 is not a good fit for this bike. I can go back to another Sugino but was trying to find something a bit higher quality with actual replaceable sprockets (the Sugino's look replaceable but they are not, they are riveted in place).


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

OK, so I am hooked on fatbikes, just bought a Motobecane to see if it was that much better than my Malus. First you notice the difference in tire sizes even though they say they are the same the difference is HUGE with the Malus tires looking an inch wider. When you go to bunny hop or wheelie you really notice, of course. I love the Malus and if the parts where more interchangeable and standard I may have never bought the Motobecane, but I love to tinker and while the Malus felt pretty good, it was a little small in the downtube for me (I'm 6'2 or so) even with a longer seat post and I felt like I wasn't getting a full stroke. This may have been the knee pain I posted about earlier rather than the bottom bracket being wider. Whatever the problem, it seems to be fixed now with the Motobecane. 
If anyone has any questions, I would be happy and try and answer. I know some are going to ask about weight, when you wheelie or bunny hop you notice, but when you lift or ride it feels much less of a difference. Front derailleur is a nice plus for sure. Lose those huge tires for trails and save for snow, sand, gravels, moon dust, whatever. Also get some better bars, seat post, Megarange, and hydraulic brakes if you need more stopping power (can be had a lot cheaper than you think) and the Malus is a fine bike.
Any specific questions?


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

Hey i've read that bb7 is a good brake upgrade are there any others that people ave tried? has any one had sucess with larger rotors?


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## kendunn (Sep 9, 2013)

I have a friend that has bb7's on his 26 inch and they seem to work really well. The thing is you can buy entry level hydraulic Shimano for practically nothing now and they are pretty good (new takeoffs on ebay for $50, M355's). I added larger rotors on the front and it also made a nice upgrade. I put XT brakes on my 29'er and they are fantastic.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

FaethoR said:


> Hey i've read that bb7 is a good brake upgrade are there any others that people ave tried? has any one had sucess with larger rotors?


I put a mtn bb7 in the rear with its standard mounts. 160, 180 & 203. I have a 200 waiting to go on next. But my Dolo is a very early Dolo; some people report issues mounting non-stock calipers on some Dolos.

Set BB7 up properly to get maximum performance is recommended. 
This once was the definitive description on setup: http://www.twowheelblogs.com/post/635, but it's not working for me now. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/avid-bb7-brake-swap-973228.html#post12011454

Get upgraded levers to go with them.

Do browse this too http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbike-braking-vs-skinny-tire-braking-970023.html

But BB7 with 160 is so much better than stock Mongoose. If you're just cruising, 160 is fine. If you're a clyde or decent hills or e-bike, 180 recommended, particularly given the taller fat tires.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'm a big fan of BB7, run them on my 29er and fatbike with 180 rotors. Unfortunately, for the price, once you get the speed dial brake levers, they can be more expensive than shimano hydraulics. If it's a new build, shimano hydraulics. If you've already got good mechanical levers you want to keep or are stuck using the integrated shimano brake/shifter lever, go with BB7.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> ... once you get the speed dial brake levers, they can be more expensive than shimano hydraulics. ...


There is no need for speed dial levers, although they can be had for $20, or even less. I got speed dial levers as I like playing with things (~$24 @LBS); and like most people, I use them at their max - but I can play with adjust them if I want to.

Considerably better than stock levers: Avid FR-5 levers, ~$12 a set, or even less.

If you're grabbing from a parts bin, yours or a bike recycler, make sure you're matching mountain calipers with mountain levers.

Not a fan of hydraulics on a bike; don't like the idea of repairing them out somewhere.


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

kendunn said:


> The thing is you can buy entry level hydraulic Shimano for practically nothing now and they are pretty good (new takeoffs on ebay for $50, M355's).


^ This.

That's $50-80 for a complete set of pre-bled hydraulic brakes, that's a crazy good deal. That's what I have on my Malus and even with the stock 160mm rotors it stops great even on steep technical terrain.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

With my CC rewards points racking up at Amazon, I've been picking up pieces there for the Dolo. Just last week, the 200mm BB7 arrived for the front. It bolted right up with no problem. The kit came with some nice and easy T25 rotor bolts. With a reload of points this month, I'll go with a 180 or 200 for the rear or an 8sp shifter (the twist grip is always slipping gears when I don't want it to).

A 200mm rotor on the rear is total overkill, but the cost difference is minimal and I want to put the BB7 calipers that I borrowed back on the Wife's bike.

Have a good one.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

ok so what is involved in putting on 203mm rotors. are there bigger rotors?

I've been dealing with bike brakes for many year all rim grabbing though.

i've done performance automotive upgrades (incuding disc brakes)

but ive never dealt with bike disc brakes.


as it stands i'll be using odessey brake levers. partly as i've been an odessey fan since jr. high and partly because they just make great products..

sorry watts i've absolutely no interest in hydraulic brakes. I've no idea what speed adjust levers are but i'm looking them up. but chances are i will prolly reject them too =)


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

FaethoR said:


> ok so what is involved in putting on 203mm rotors. are there bigger rotors?
> 
> I've been dealing with bike brakes for many year all rim grabbing though.
> 
> ...


You're in for a treat with a good set of brakes. The stockers on the Dolo are really false advertising. A real set grips and stops like you won't believe, water has no effect on them just like a car, and a ding in the rim is never a problem.

Disk brakes were generally 160mm diameter rotors like the ones that came with the Dolo. I didn't know that there was a size increase until recently. 200mm / 203mm is the largest standard size and is really needed on a fatty. I had BB7 calipers on for a while with the stock 160 discs. Going to 200 is night and day. I am not 100% certain if a 200 will fit in the rear, but the front was a piece of cake. Just have a torque wrench handy and be careful not to round out the rotor bolts. Torx bolts are the best for this duty. A good rotor / caliper kit will come with them.

Bike disc brakes are similar and different compared to car brakes. The biggest deal is that you set the caliper alignment by sqeezing the brake lever very hard then tightening the mounting bolts evenly. They have a noticeably better bite after some bedding in effort.

The SRAM speed dial levers have an adjustment knob that allow a different pull and feel on the levers. It just moves the cable yoke nearer or further away from the pivot.

BTW, I've had a set of Hayes hydraulics since 2001 on my Trek. They are killer brakes that require almost no maint and stop like crazy. Bleeding them is simple if you have a couple basic fittings and hoses from an automotive bleeder. Also, my Hayes are completely sealed, so the fluid lasts a lot longer. I've only bled them once in 15yrs. 

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

I haven't come across any pics for the Dolo so, that is a 200 up front with the stock 160 in the rear. The calipers are both BB7s. The rear is borrowed from the Wife's bike:









Close up:









Edit: sorry that I forgot to mention that if you go with BB7s, you will need a 1.75in longer cable sheath between the top tube and rear caliper. The cable was a useable length for me but close to being too short.

Lemme edit that edit. The BB7 that I borrowed from my Wife's bike needed a longer sheath. The new BB7 that I bought used the original sheath. The longer one was too long. So, the rear 200mm BB7 is a straight upgrade.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Hey, Folks.

I just want to do a head-check before I order up one of these. Please let me know your thoughts.

I really want to push the buy button on this freewheel:
Amazon.com : DNP Epoch Freewheel 8spd 11-34 Nickel Plated : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

This is the first alternate:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBF87XU...UTF8&colid=3KSVDZKZ7D7VA&coliid=IZKQ85TMW3CHK

The stock 14-28 gearing is definitely not working for me. 11-34 would help me figure out what chainring(s) to search out.

An 8-speed trigger shift is arriving today. I'll set it up for seven gears until a freewheel arrives.

Thanks!

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Either freewheel will work, but they could cause maintenance pains in the future. The only negative with a freewheel that has a small ring less than 14 is trying to remove it. Requires a special super small freewheel removal tool. And because of the smaller opening size, when it comes time to regrease or adjust the bearings, you have to remove the freewheel to do it.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

I saw it noted that a special tool might be required but had no idea what the consequences were. Thanks for explaining that.

Given my desire for high-maint motorcycles, that doesn't sound too bad. We'll see how it pans out in reality. Ha!

Thanks again!

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Ahhhhh! What a relief. I got the trigger shifter installed and found an instant improvement in rideability. Gripshifts and I just don't get along.

I also took a peek at the freewheel to see if my old Park FR-5 removal tool would work. Funny enough, the stock freewheel is an Epoch model on my Dolo. I couldn't locate a part number for reference. It looked like the splines on my old tool lined up, but it was too big of an O.D. to fit. Since I don't have any other freewheel bikes, I might Dremel it down to fit? We'll see when the new freewheel arrives.

Also, I found my rear axle was bent. I rotated it to let it naturally bend back, or beyond. Time to find something stronger there as the Dolo hasn't seen any dirt yet.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tonered said:


> I also took a peek at the freewheel to see if my old Park FR-5 removal tool would work. ... I might Dremel it down to fit? We'll see when the new freewheel arrives.


NOOOO.

The FR-5 is a cassette lockring tool, and has a larger diameter. Grinding down the splines really won't help. Get the Fr-1 or FR-1.2, or ask some local riders if they have one you could borrow. Someone probably will, and it's a good tool to have around for future bike projects. they do come in handy with kids bikes.

Trigger shifters are awesome, and the bent axle (and the small size) is the reason I upgraded to a different fatbike. Trail use was bending the axle over and over again.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

watts888 said:


> NOOOO.
> 
> The FR-5 is a cassette lockring tool, and has a larger diameter. Grinding down the splines really won't help. Get the Fr-1 or FR-1.2, or ask some local riders if they have one you could borrow. Someone probably will, and it's a good tool to have around for future bike projects. they do come in handy with kids bikes.
> 
> Trigger shifters are awesome, and the bent axle (and the small size) is the reason I upgraded to a different fatbike. Trail use was bending the axle over and over again.


Haha! I can't seem to give you any more stars. You need some more. =)

Well that would explain it, but I don't think the bike that I bought it for (either a 1992/93-ish Specialized Hard Rock or a Huffy MTB of that same era) had cassettes. The end of the splines are a scosche mangled. Maybe I used it with a BFH to persuade a freewheel off? That'd be right up my alley.

Thanks. I'm thinking of asking the LBS to pull the stock freewheel if the new freewheel requires a different removal tool for servicing.

I've tried to get our Girls on two wheels, but they just haven't caught the bug. This is mainly because of our location (narrow road lanes and no sidewalks). We have to drive somewhere before we can ride on anything other than our boring cul de sac. We live in a weird, little pocket where it is much safer to ride a motorcycle than a bicycle.

At least the Girls know how to ride. Maybe it will catch on later in life?

For the axle, I'm wondering about finding something in stainless. I need to pull it completely apart to see what I'm dealing with. As weird as it might sound, I never had to deal with any axle or bearing issues on any bike that I ever owned, except replacing the BB on that Huffy MTB. Twice, I think?

Thinking about it, I believe that I bought the FR-5 to swap out the freewheel, rings, and chain due to stretch and wear on the Hard Rock. I sold that bike just as the second set of drive parts were wearing out.

Have a good one.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Hey, Folks.

Searching out a stronger rear axle, I came upon these:
Wheels Manufacturing Hub Axles

I haven't for sure determined if our axle is straight up metric (M10 x 1) or 9.5mm x 26tpi. I suspect that it is the second one.

I like the sound of a heat treated axle, but I'm not excited about 4130 steel. I was hoping for something in a HT range higher than I have seen for 4130? Of course, there is the added challenge of finding 26tpi.

Any thoughts? Thanks!

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Not long enough. for a QR axle, you'll need about 200 to 205mm length. For a bolt on axle, you're in the 230-250mm range. A replacement axle is kind of the bane of the mongoose rear hub. Other than that, it's good, for a steel freewheel hub.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Ahh! Thanks.

190mm is the frame spacing, not the axle width?

I have no need for QR in the rear, but that is a goal for the front, eventually.

I wonder if Wheels MFG might support a strengthened rear axle for us?

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

tonered said:


> 190mm is the frame spacing, not the axle width?
> 
> I have no need for QR in the rear, but that is a goal for the front, eventually.


190mm is the rear axle spacing between dropouts. Swapping the front to QR is quite easy tough. Just need a new 135mm axle (common rear axle) and a QR lever. Simple swap, and if you plan on removing the front wheel, easy to do. However, the bolted axle does create a stiffer fork. QR skewers can stretch, which will cause additional flex in the fork. Unless you have a need to remove the front wheel often (for transportation), doing a QR swap isn't necessary.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Haha! Measure first, huh? =P I'm just glad that I asked before ordering.

Once I confirm the axle thread, I'll ask Wheels MFG about an axle for us.

Yeah. The front wheel comes off for each ride to be loaded on my sidecar. I am using a ratcheting box end wrench for now, which isn't too bad.

I have a leftover rear QR skewer on the shelf since I swapped the Trek to skewers with allen heads instead of levers. It is a nice and solid skewer that has never shown any stretch. I have stretched skewers in the past.

This thread has been hugely informational and a lot of fun. Obviously, wrapping my mind around the bits used for the Dolo has been a good challenge. Even with the Dolos weak spots, I am having a great time with it. After two months of use, I don't have the itch for a more expensive machine.

Have a good one.


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

FaethoR said:


> ok so what is involved in putting on 203mm rotors. are there bigger rotors?
> 
> I've been dealing with bike brakes for many year all rim grabbing though.
> 
> ...


Does Odyssey even make a long pull lever. I thought they just made BMX levers and aren't all BMX brakes short pull? If so then you won't be able to use them because they will not pull enough cable to make the brakes work. You will have to explore MTB parts and not reject parts that are actually really good. Avid Speed Dial levers are some of the best levers you can get for mechanical brakes.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

blkangel said:


> Does Odyssey even make a long pull lever. I thought they just made BMX levers and aren't all BMX brakes short pull? If so then you won't be able to use them because they will not pull enough cable to make the brakes work. You will have to explore MTB parts and not reject parts that are actually really good. Avid Speed Dial levers are some of the best levers you can get for mechanical brakes.


I don't know. i ordered them already. if they work great if not then they go into the bin for my bmx trail bike build.

right now i am focusing on the dolo so i can get it up where it feels good so that i can get out of the city into a tent on weekends. I really truely hate almost all things mountain bike (minus the gears for long hills) so i am trying to put as many bmx / 24" crusier parts on this dolo as i can. and i am running the handle bars/ seat like a bmx ie low seat higher bars * S&M cruiser eventually*

:thumbsup:

but yeah this bike has two functions one get outa nyc and two move tools in nyc.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

btw I was raised in the desert with a home town of 2 thousand souls and moved to a city of 2 millionish people now i live in new york city and 8 million ..... new yorkers :nono: so if i don't get some quality solo time :madman: <----<<<< this.

and to be honest most exposure to mountain bike i've had is :

A: getting them stuck in sand and having to carry a heavier bike.
B: watching rich guys wear very expensive clothes that would totally look better on rich ladies
C: watching people "spin" up a hill going slower than if they got off and pushed.

but as far as brakes and lever pull goes the actual length of movement on the cable and distance from handle bar to grip is the same fo both bmx and stock dolo. also the distance traveled from pad to target *rim / disc* is the same and actually less on the disc since my rims are trashed in my bmx. so I'm betting that they should work and both sets of cables have the same or similar soft metal ends on them... should all work.

If you want i can youtube the inagural down hill test... complete with the opening "hey hold my beer for a secon...."


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Hey, Folks.

I just wanted to let you know, if you're looking for more gears or a bigger spread, I found out that the DNP Epoch 8spd slides right on:
Amazon.com : DNP Epoch Freewheel 8spd 11-34 Nickel Plated : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

Folks noted earlier in this thread that a washer was needed with other 8spds to keep the chain away from the chainstay. There was plenty of clearence on my frame. They have 30-11, 32-11, and 34-11 versions. I went with the last one, which now requires a longer chain. No biggie since it would have been needed with a triple chainring also.

Since my Dolo came stock with an Epoch 7spd, it uses the same tool as the new one needs:
http://www.amazon.com/DNP-Freewheel-Remover-Epoch/dp/B007AI1LGW

Lemme know if you have any questions.

Have a good one.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

Soooo.... The odessey lever for the left side came in. And I was doing some drinking after work and figured why not put it on. So I test fit the clamp to mount it to Handel bar it fit fine. Then I pulled off old lever and grip and put the cable in it . and that worked. But it's fit is a little different spaced so now the brake is dragging. Which is no big deal to adjust.

So yup it all works. And much more better too. The lever is shorter in length than OEM plastibrake. And it's all metal with no flex and applies ALOT more pressure to caliper.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Wow. I'm rethinking the triple chainring plans. The steps in the gearing of the DNP Epoch 8spd (11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, and 34) is just stellar, for me. I had a nice 15mi run on a local paved trail with decent hills. Every gear seems better spaced even though the general gap is 3t for most gears versus 2t for the stocker. I don't know why exactly, but it feels great.

Have a good one.


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## Brock_Samson (Jun 3, 2016)

Just joining the Thread to follow it, bought a $169 Dolomite off amazon.. upgrading little by little this thread is a big help.

Front suspension forks?
What size hole saw for drilling the rims out?


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

Brock_Samson said:


> Just joining the Thread to follow it, bought a $169 Dolomite off amazon.. upgrading little by little this thread is a big help.
> 
> Front suspension forks?
> What size hole saw for drilling the rims out?


For suspension for you pretty much have the Rock Shox Bluto, which is $500. Maybe you can get a used one for less but the cheapest one new is $500. Honestly wouldn't spend that much for a $169 bike.

But now that I think of it, the Bluto won't work anyway because it has a tapered steerer.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Brock_Samson said:


> ...What size hole saw for drilling the rims out?


The weight saving is negligible. 
The acceleration improvement is negligible. 
You'll be doing this only because it looks cool. 
And you have to do it well so debris doesn't get in and wear through your tube.

There's two patterns, staggered and straight line. I did the staggered, but I think the straight line looks much better. See the links for both, on the first post of the thread, near the bottom, under "Also Done". http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html

It can cost, but a meaningful upgrade is better tubes (cheap) and then better tires (mid to crazy), particularly if your came with the original-model tires, not the later-model tires.


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## Brock_Samson (Jun 3, 2016)

I come from BMX bikes (long time ago), I have no bicycle knowledge. but i am mechanically inclined and can take apart and reassemble this thing in no time. I don't know the component terms, so any amazon item links help tons. i know i want a trigger shifter, new grips, and some new bars (though not sure why the stock feels uncomfortable).

yeah weighing cost for the bike, i am not a hardcore rider so little things to make it easier to ride are worth the money, got plenty of room for a reasonable budget without busting into the "next level up".


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## Brock_Samson (Jun 3, 2016)

.repeat


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Brock_Samson said:


> Front suspension forks?
> What size hole saw for drilling the rims out?


Don't bother with a suspension fork on the dolo. There are low end fat bike suspenion forks available on alibaba that work with the dolo (search some of the previous pages and there's also a forum post on MTBR about cheap fatbike suspension), but they aren't that good. Only worth while for road/gravel use where you want some additional cushion in the hand. For trails, just dangerous. Plus with fat tires, a suspension fork isn't really necessary.

Best gain is with tire and tube swap, especially the tubes. They should be the first to go.

Lots of previous posts on this link about drilling holes, but unless you don't have a job, it's not worth the weight savings for the hassle. Someone weighted the metal discs he removed, and it came out to about 1/4lb. Just the tube swap will get you about 1.5lbs. There are also a couple posts of bikes where sticks were shoved through the rim holes on rides. If you really want drilled, just as easy to buy a new wheelset for one of the Minnesota fatbikes that are pre-drilled (plus use a cassette freehub, which is stronger) Doing upgrades like these to the dolo should be for fun, not for performance gains. If you want performance, you start with something like the mongoose vinson.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Brock_Samson said:


> Just joining the Thread to follow it, bought a $169 Dolomite off amazon.. upgrading little by little this thread is a big help.
> 
> Front suspension forks?
> What size hole saw for drilling the rims out?


Wow. That is a great price. About $30 less than I paid just a few months ago.

I linked to the Shimano trigger shifter and 8spd freewheel a page or two back. That particular freewheel does require a longer chain.

I would highly recommend replacing at least the front brake with a 200mm Avid BB7. They cost between $60 and $80 and is well worth it, safety-wise. It is a straight and easy swap. It does take several stops to bed in, but once you do, it is close to MTB good.

I personally very much like the undrilled look in this color scheme. With all the decals removed, the bike just oozes classy, IMHO.

Have a good one.


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## Brock_Samson (Jun 3, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Don't bother with a suspension fork on the dolo. There are low end fat bike suspenion forks available on alibaba that work with the dolo (search some of the previous pages and there's also a forum post on MTBR about cheap fatbike suspension), but they aren't that good. Only worth while for road/gravel use where you want some additional cushion in the hand. For trails, just dangerous. Plus with fat tires, a suspension fork isn't really necessary.
> 
> Best gain is with tire and tube swap, especially the tubes. They should be the first to go.
> 
> Lots of previous posts on this link about drilling holes, but unless you don't have a job, it's not worth the weight savings for the hassle. Someone weighted the metal discs he removed, and it came out to about 1/4lb. Just the tube swap will get you about 1.5lbs. There are also a couple posts of bikes where sticks were shoved through the rim holes on rides. If you really want drilled, just as easy to buy a new wheelset for one of the Minnesota fatbikes that are pre-drilled (plus use a cassette freehub, which is stronger) Doing upgrades like these to the dolo should be for fun, not for performance gains. If you want performance, you start with something like the mongoose vinson.


A tire and tube swap is worth that much?? maybe cause im new to these but ... a lighter tube and tire?? wouldnt that mean thinner? or are they like kevlar lined?? what should i search for on amazon?

yeah its all fun, for the price like i said i have a lot of wiggle room, that and my diy.youtube skills (backed by mechanical know how). i would like a lighter frame thats for sure.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

it isnt the frame that gives the weight, it is the lower end componants that do that.

your from bmx before so you know that there isnt much difference in alum frame verses cromolly. 

actually this bike feels slightly heavier than my old mongoose bmx (dyno divine / mongoose ...)

most of the weight increase is the tires and a little in the free wheel.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Brock_Samson said:


> A tire and tube swap is worth that much?? maybe cause im new to these but ... a lighter tube and tire?? wouldnt that mean thinner?


When talking Dolo, lighter tube and lighter tires is really a misnomer: the stock ones on the Dolo are grossly overweight; likely more accurate to say morbidly obese (comparatively, their performance certainly justifies that label). From stock Dolo tires, going down to an overweight fat bike tire is a meaningful improvement! 
A stock tube is ~705g, or ~1.55lbs. So if you replace both tubes with the typical tubes used by fat bikes, which are around 1/2 the weight, then yes just replacing the tubes alone can save you in the order of 1.5 lbs. 
The first stock Dolo tire (same tire as on the cruiser Beast) was ~2830g, and the latter one was ~2900g. Each. A more typical weight for a fat bike tires would be 1300g, although that does vary with various designs. So you could easily save another six to seven pounds off the bike by changing to better tires too. 

*But it's not the weight itself that matters* (but weight is easy to measure and report...): it's the rolling resistance; i.e., the energy you lose in deforming the tube for the contact patch then it returning to it's usual shape. The lighter tube wastes less energy. Same for a lighter tire (and just about any fat bike tire is lighter than the Dolo tires. The 120 TPI tires are more pricey, but more supple, for less rolling resistance and better conformity to the trail for better feel and better grip. But almost anything is an improvement over stock.

So in fat bikes when we say "lighter" tires/tube, we less concerned about weight than we are with rolling resistance (how supple, to not waste energy). That's it's lighter for climbing hills and for acceleration is just a bonus. An interesting thing about fat bikes, is the mass of the larger rims, tubes and tires putting more mass out at the rim, for a huge rotational momentum, which gives fat bikes an interesting feel/persistence for going over obstacles. Upgrading to regular fat bike tires that are not the stock morbidly obese will not rob you of that momentum benefit, and you'll not feel like riding obstacle loaded trails is like herding Frankenstein through a rock garden using bungee cords for reins. That fat bike rotational momentum is another reason to like the larger discs over the smaller ones.

A lower costing and common upgrade to our budget Dolos is the On-One Floater. 
See the other threads for which tires perform best under the conditions and environments that *you* will be riding. Be careful not to overspend or to buy too soon before doing your research on what matches YOUR needs, else you could be spending that money twice to correct a mis-purchase.

So amazon really isn't your turn-to. Learn to search for relevant threads on this forum, so you don't misspend your money.

p.s. 
For a number of those who are recently new to fat bikes, do pay attention to the EXISTING threads (don't start _another_ one) that cover what tire pressuresto use under what conditions, and the fact that it varies a lot, and that it varies by rider. Some riding hilly and technical trails may adjust their tire pressure two or three times on their ride. And again for getting to/returning from home to trail.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

actually on the plus weight plus size stock dolo tires i've been checking the weight listed on amazon and asking the how much does it weigh question and it appears that the "official made by some one else" mongoose official mongoose tires are only a few ounces heavier than the other offerings. and the tubes are pretty light. not the lightest but not the heaviest either. I did buy the mongoose labeled tube and upn arrival it was indeed not much heavier "measured by me holding in hand." than my 20 inch kendra tubes.

I think where the cruddy rolling resistance comes from is that atleast on mine the tires are very ridgid. soat higher psi the roll pretty good but under 16 psi it's like wierd. kinda like driving on a mostly flat mud tire in your truck.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

btw i busted my seat today and fabbed up a new one outa 1 inch ply. right now it's just a proof of concept but after i fine tune size and shape i'll be making a real one. is any one interested in a build up of it or pics of process?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

FaethoR said:


> btw i busted my seat today and fabbed up a new one outa 1 inch ply. right now it's just a proof of concept but after i fine tune size and shape i'll be making a real one. is any one interested in a build up of it or pics of process?


Not likely a lot of interest here, but it does have a better fit over at http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?forums/fat-bikes.74/


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

FaethoR said:


> actually on the plus weight plus size stock dolo tires i've been checking the weight listed on amazon ...


You're going with info from sellers instead of from those of use who have held these tires in our hands and weighed them? And ridden them under various conditions and share how they actually perform?

How much the 'official' tires on 'amazon' weigh is irrelevant. What matters is what your tires are. Weigh them. They'll be heavy. Compared to almost all other fat bike tires, they're crap. They ride like, well, like you describe. Go read in the forum above this thread about the ride people get from regular fat bike tires, let alone the various specialized tires.



FaethoR said:


> I think where the cruddy rolling resistance comes from is that atleast on mine the tires are very ridgid. ...


Rigid? Yes. As in, not supple? Cheaply made tires that need tons of extra material to keep them together are also not supple, have poor rolling resistance, and look at that, they're heavier. High TPI usually results in more supple.

I'd highly recommend that you stop thinking Dolo and starting thinking Fat Bike. 
Then there's nearly a whole world of usually relevant information out there in the forum that this thread exists in. All you have to do is search.

I've never seen a bike part I wanted on Amazon that can't be had cheaper else where, even when factoring in shipping. (Often I've gotten the part from the actual source of the part, the actual seller behind Amazon, for less.) I have seen some bike parts where Amazon is the best source, but that is rare.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

not intending to be dismissive of others real world experience. on the tires that is. just putting out there that like the new / old chainstays and the original vs. new knobby tires that mongoose like many other large companies is apt to change things with out much accompanied fan fair.

and in actuality what makes the lower tpi tires more rigid is the fact that the "threads" or pieces of material used in the carcass are wider and thicker. this creates a more armored carcass against punctures. as opposed to the higher tpi tires where in the threads are made of a finer material that is more flexible at the cost of less strength and more "not thread joints" to punctur through.

and on the subject of tire construction the actual tread affects the over all suppleness just as much as the carcass. whisch is how you end up with so many people complaining a bout the rolling resistance of the surley tires. and it is also the tread flex or lack there of which causes the self steer.

as far as thinking "fat bike" vs. thinking "dolomite" my thoughts have always been my bike. 

and to be up front the term rat rod is viewed in a negative light as i am a professional wood worker and fabricator and rat rod in the auto enthusiast world = poorly executed and based on fads. If that wasn't intended then it is understood but in text things tend to get muddied between sender and receiver.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Low vs high tpi is well known, but I can assure you that having ridiculous amounts of thick rubber like the dolo tires does comes into play. And I'm pretty sure Mongoose isn't shipping current Dolos with descent tires that run $100 or more each, given the bike typically sells sub $200 now. And you describe a typical issue with stock tires. But photograph and weigh yours and let us know. It would be useful for people to know what they're shipping with now. And as we're likely near the end of the market life of the Dolo, they could be selling with a variety of tires, depending on when the stock was obtained by the seller. 

Too bad your bias of a term would keep you from a site where there's a lot of people who take pride in their work, beginner or expert.


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

Sorry I've not got a scale to give you exact poundage but while I was greasing my bearings and swapping the freewheel I felt the heft of it. The whole rear wheel set Is three times heavier than the stock freewheel. Or about twice as heavy as a 20 bmx rim wit 2.4 inch tires. So I'd say on a guesstimate bases its about 6 pounds per stripped out tire tube rim spokes hub


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## kitchin (Jun 8, 2016)

has anyone bin able to figure out a crank that works without buying a race face or surly mwod crank? I've done some digging into isis bb configurations but because of the 190mm rear end even the 100mm isis bb doesn't give enough clearance at the crank.

ISIS Bottom Bracket for Fat BIke - Luna Cycle

this bb is isis with a external bearing design like howitzer only for isis cranks that spread further from the frame. Hopefully this will be the ultimate solution to cheaper cranks for these bikes but just wanted to hear someone else take on it to see if they came up with anything i haven't thought of also here is my dolo weighing in at

36LBS flat


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

hey kitchen I'd wager that a 100 mm. BB would not work shaft wise since the stock dolo rims are 100 mm.

i'd say that the two otions i've seen in my research and talking to my local bike shop is 

A pull the chain ring and get new one.
B use another square crank arm. 

If thats what your talking about. 

btw niiice ride


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

Just a small heads up.

Amazon and Walmart both have the Dolo on sale for $179 with free shipping right now:

http://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Mens...te mongoose&qid=1465496650&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

26" Mongoose Dolomite Men's 7-speed All-Terrain Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red - Walmart.com


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

kitchin said:


> has anyone bin able to figure out a crank that works without buying a race face or surly mwod crank? I've done some digging into isis bb configurations but because of the 190mm rear end even the 100mm isis bb doesn't give enough clearance at the crank.
> 
> ISIS Bottom Bracket for Fat BIke - Luna Cycle
> 
> ...


Nice bike, can we get some specs on your wheels and where they came from? I like em


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

Tearing up the lawn.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

vid1900 said:


> Just a small heads up.
> 
> Amazon and Walmart both have the Dolo on sale for $179 with free shipping right now:
> 
> 26" Mongoose Dolomite Men's 7-speed All-Terrain Fat Tire Mountain Bike, Navy Blue/Red - Walmart.com


Walmart lies about their Was: price once again.

And it's now $159 at Target.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

I have not seen many mention the Malus, but I had to get one Sunday at Academy after they dropped the price to $179. I already swapped the bar and post for some alloy pieces out of the parts bin, and have a crank and shifter in there waiting as well. I was surprised how much lighter it was than the reported Dolomite weights I have seen, 43.5# stock. Stupid phone will not put a pic up(try later from pc), but it looks pretty sweet in all silver after dumping the black bits and stickers.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I actually like the malus. IMO, the silver is nice. There was a red one also that I liked, but I remember there was something about the hubs & brake rotors that did not sound safe.

There was a lot of weight in the original dolomite tires, and the malus (and newer dolomite) seemed to use better tires. Probably a couple pounds of weight there alone. Plus I think the malus's fork design is better with a slacker headtube angle. The dolo's fork was real boxy and heavy.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

Here we go with an old Trek System 2 bar and alloy seat post added, and a generic bottle holder. Bar may be a bit skinny for this bike(560mm), but the original was way to wide for me. I think I have something in the 650 range somewhere around here. I don't ride anything that needs much leverage, mostly straight line and a few places that wide ones will catch trees. Tires and tubes are on the way as well.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

Very nice.

Have a good one.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> I actually like the malus. IMO, the silver is nice. There was a red one also that I liked, but I remember there was something about the hubs & brake rotors that did not sound safe...


I believe it was the Mongoose Hitch that had the spin-on flange for the rotor (for which I wouldn't touch it) and other reported problems.

I haven't seen a Malus in person, but I don't believe it uses a spin-on flange. Can someone confirm from theirs?


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

Canoe said:


> I believe it was the Mongoose Hitch that had the spin-on flange for the rotor (for which I wouldn't touch it) and other reported problems.
> 
> I haven't seen a Malus in person, but I don't believe it uses a spin-on flange. Can someone confirm from theirs?


It must be threaded. Mine is an alloy flange and the hub body is steel tested with a magnet.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

jeffreythree said:


> Mine is an alloy flange and the hub body is steel tested with a magnet.


The brake rotor mount was alloy? no wonder those things stripped out.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

watts888 said:


> The brake rotor mount was alloy? no wonder those things stripped out.


It is a strange part to make aluminum IMHO. It may be my first project in the shop for this bike, but it will also rarely go beyond my 6 y.o. daughter's speeds. It would be a quick part to make on the lathe out of something a bit stronger since it is just a threaded flange with six holes. Question is, is it truly weaker than other parts on the bike when assembled correctly?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

If you look up spin-on flanges (I forget the correct term) on ebay, the numbers sold is huge. For a bike which may be driven/tasked like a mountain bike - or ridden by a clyde - one problem with that type of design is: which part do you want to be the one to break, the hub or the spin-on flange. 

If the spin-on part is stronger, you'll break your hub. 
If the spin-on is equal to the hub, it's a contest. 
If the spin-on is weaker, then theoretically the hub won't be damaged (ignoring where broken pieces go and what they may jam). 
Could we have a photo of the Malus hub with flange from someone?

Interesting that the internet was showing reports of issue after issue with all sorts of things with the Hitch (seemly worse than typical for department-store type bikes), but with the Malus it was significantly lower than typical, possibly even lower than the oddly low issue Dolomite.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

Canoe said:


> If you look up spin-on flanges (I forget the correct term) on ebay, the numbers sold is huge. For a bike which may be driven/tasked like a mountain bike - or ridden by a clyde - one problem with that type of design is: which part do you want to be the one to break, the hub or the spin-on flange.
> 
> If the spin-on part is stronger, you'll break your hub.
> If the spin-on is equal to the hub, it's a contest.
> ...


If you need a different angle, just ask. On a side note, all the rotor bolts were equally lightly torqued and had thread locker. I have a nice bar of 12L14 steel I think would strip before the hub but not catastrophically fail like the aluminum hub could. Probably just leave it alone unless it does break.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

As a clyde, I don't want my brakes to fail in any fashion, hub or spin on flange. Solid one piece construction. I doubt the spin on flange is horrible for a lighter rider and road use, but under heavy braking conditions, fine threaded aluminum would not be my brake material choice. You go crazy and strip out the threads on a freewheel, you loose the ability to pedal. You strip out the threads on a brake, you can die. Not a risk I'll take.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

One thing that is not clear in my photo is that it is not like the Chinese flanges being sold seperate. It has an internal lip that bottoms out against the face of the hub. There are other differences including a longer threaded portion. It is really on there, probably with some kind of permanent threadlocker.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Does anyone know if bb7 calipers will bolt on to the stock dolo without using an adapter ?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Justthefacts84 said:


> Does anyone know if bb7 calipers will bolt on to the stock dolo without using an adapter ?


Using the bb7's mount/adapter bracket that adjusts their mount for the rotor size, the answer is "usually". The dolo frame has varied. For example, the rear chain-stays have two different spacings.


Most bb7 installs are bolt on, adjust (as usual with bb7) and go (and adjust again later, typical of bb7). 
Others report that on their dolo the bb7 ends up slightly offset from the rotor. Within that:
Most report that they can get enough adjustment out of the bolts (bolts loose, clamp the caliper, tighten the bolts, check the alignment), 
others have used shims or different brackets. 
I don't recall which direction the offset typically is for those with an offset; I don't know if there is a "typical" offset, or if they're dealing with a one-of.


New mtn levers pair very well with upgraded brakes. New brake cables and housing is nice too. Many bike co-ops have bulk housing and cable at a very good price. A good LBS won't hose you if they sell from bulk supplies (you like black?). For many an LBS, Jagwire Slick-Stainless cables and black CEX housing is a staple.

If you want super modulation of your brakes, and don't mind some stares and comments (you're already on a fat bike), 1/4" soft copper tubing from Home Depot or the like, will house CEX very comfortably. Feeds right to the caliper. At the lever end, a wrap of silicone tape will seal the CEX to the copper to keep moisture and debris out where you need a length of housing without the copper for flex to reach the lever.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Thank you for your very well thought out answer Canoe ! I use this bike to take my dog out for his daily 5 to 10 mile run every day. He often pulls the bike faster than I want to go so I'm on the brakes a lot and constantly having to replace pads or adjust the calipers.
The good thing about this being a FAT bike is my dog can't pull it sideways because it's heavy and has lots of rubber contacting the pavement !


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I was able to do the bb7 swap with some 1mm thick washers. Just shim where necessary, and it'll work.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Justthefacts84 said:


> ... I use this bike to take my dog out for his daily 5 to 10 mile run every day. He often pulls the bike faster than I want to go so I'm on the brakes a lot and constantly having to replace pads or adjust the calipers...


If he's like a dog near where I live, you don't want to upgrade just the front brake (typically the dominant use brake) and end up with the bike pulled over the front wheel. If you're going to only upgrade one brake, do the rear!

I've got news about the bb7. They need adjusting, and regularly.

In your case, if it's in the budget, I'd suggesting getting a *TRP Spyke 180mm Alloy MTN Mechanical Disc Brake* for the rear. I'd suggest one of those for the rear over a pair of BB7s for front and rear. The Spyke MTN are far easier to adjust than BB7s and need far less adjusting - if any - between pad replacement. For your use, it's a much better solution.

https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1223&catid=184
_The Spyke is a dual sided mechanical caliper where both pads actuate providing even and precise clamping force. This results in even pad wear and easy pad adjustment with the addition of a barrel adjuster. No longer is adjusting the whole caliper necessary as the pads wear.
-Even pad wear 
-Easy adjustment and set up _​
A second Spyke for the front would be a nice indulgence for when riding without a tow if you like most people and use the front brake more than the rear. A BB7 for the front is fine; as it's fat (heavier, larger circumference, I'd get 180mm). Or try it with just the rear upgraded before spending money on the front. You may find you're fine with just the rear upgraded.

Avid FR-5 brakes levers are good. 
Avid Speed-Dial 7 levers are popular (and more expensive), but most people adjust them to perform exactly like FR-5 levers, so LBS get a good laugh at people like me who bought the speed-dials. 
Do look around for lever prices. Wide differences on the same product. Or discounts on older stock that's a different colour than current production.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

watts888 said:


> I was able to do the bb7 swap with some 1mm thick washers. Just shim where necessary, and it'll work.


Thank you for the info mr watts !


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Canoe said:


> If he's like a dog near where I live, you don't want to upgrade just the front brake (typically the dominant use brake) and end up with the bike pulled over the front wheel. If you're going to only upgrade one brake, do the rear!
> 
> I've got news about the bb7. They need adjusting, and regularly.
> 
> ...


Thank you for all the info, I was looking at the Spyke brakes and was surprised they were not getting many recommendations !They may be the best solution!Here is a pic of me and my desert sled dog!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Justthefacts84 said:


> Thank you for all the info, I was looking at the Spyke brakes and was surprised they were not getting many recommendations !They may be the best solution!Here is a pic of me and my desert sled dog!


I'm getting Spykes as soon as I have spare money. That's to replace BB7s. I'm also going with ~200/203/205 rotors, as, well, because... and due to going e-bike. 
I've seen it said, but don't know if it's true, that Spykes with 180mm stop as well as BB7s with ~200mm. Hard to believe, but perhaps due to the balanced application of force allows for more applicable force applied to the rotor.

Bike sure looks nice with the rear rack. Amazing how the look can change so much with a few changes. Note that IMHO removing all stickers but the Dolo sticker makes for a cleaner and even stronger look.

I would have more confidence with any weight on that rear rack setup if the vertical supports go longer and were mounted more vertical: instead of bolting to the middle of the seat stays the mount could be down lower near the rear axle, so they don't unnecessarily stress the seat stays under load.

Once you go with real brakes and levers, watch for positioning the levers on the bars and adjusting the lever reach so they work with a single finger (without having to move your hand, as a single finger is all you properly setup brakes need). And watch out for carpel tunnel issues with a bar setup like that if you rotate your hands back so your wrists are bent backwards. A more natural position can be had by a set of BMX bars, which also work to bring your hands back for a more upright riding position.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Canoe said:


> I'm getting Spykes as soon as I have spare money. That's to replace BB7s. I'm also going with ~200/203/205 rotors, as, well, because... and due to going e-bike.
> I've seen it said, but don't know if it's true, that Spykes with 180mm stop as well as BB7s with ~200mm. Hard to believe, but perhaps due to the balanced application of force allows for more applicable force applied to the rotor.
> 
> Bike sure looks nice with the rear rack. Amazing how the look can change so much with a few changes. Note that IMHO removing all stickers but the Dolo sticker makes for a cleaner and even stronger look.
> ...


I don't know if you noticed the adjustable stem and trekking bar makes it almost like inverting the stock stem which puts you in a very up right position ! Like you I have back problems !It also keeps my weight off the handlebar. All the upgrades I did were upgrades I saw people do here !Look at my shadow in that pic,you can then see how upright I am


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Justthefacts84 said:


> I don't know if you noticed the adjustable stem and trekking bar makes it almost like inverting the stock stem which puts you in a very up right position ! Like you I have back problems !It also keeps my weight off the handlebar. All the upgrades I did were upgrades I saw people do here !Look at my shadow in that pic,you can then see how upright I am


That is exactly why I made my comments. There's a risk of lean, and of weight on through the heels of the palms, and worse with rotating back the wrists. BMX bars allow that upright posture with your hands positioned more like a hand reaching out to shake hands with someone. And various grips can tune the ease of that grip even more.

And in your new photo, I do see some learning forward...
And it appears that you've positioned the levers for a four-finger grip around the levers, coupling your grip on the bars with your grip/control of the levers. One-finger control is the way to go, which you can do with BB7s or Spykes. Brake levers can easily reach over lever-shifters to provide that first finger reach.


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

Canoe said:


> That is exactly why I made my comments. There's a risk of lean, and of weight on through the heels of the palms, and worse with rotating back the wrists. BMX bars allow that upright posture with your hands positioned more like a hand reaching out to shake hands with someone. And various grips can tune the ease of that grip even more.
> 
> And in your new photo, I do see some learning forward...
> And it appears that you've positioned the levers for a four-finger grip around the levers, coupling your grip on the bars with your grip/control of the levers. One-finger control is the way to go, which you can do with BB7s or Spykes. Brake levers can easily reach over lever-shifters to provide that first finger reach.


I guess it's a good time to change to a BMX bar since I'm going to replace the brakes and levers ! No weight on the palms would be better !


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

Justthefacts84 said:


> Thank you for all the info, I was looking at the Spyke brakes and was surprised they were not getting many recommendations !They may be the best solution!Here is a pic of me and my desert sled dog!


say uhhhhh... what rack is that you got there ?


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## Justthefacts84 (Oct 19, 2015)

FaethoR said:


> say uhhhhh... what rack is that you got there ?


Here is a link to it :https://www.amazon.com/West-Biking-Adjustable-Accessories-Reflective/dp/B0154OMGIK


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## FaethoR (Apr 3, 2016)

thanks ive been looking for one


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

I have been wrenching on the Malus and changed the tires to Juggernaut Pro 4.0 and Q-tubes superlights. Light tires and tubes, ditching the kick stand, and lighter alloys seat post and bar were all it took to drop it to 37 pounds. An interesting discovery was the stock tires were only 1600gm and tubes were 550gm, pretty much in line with name brand makers.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

I've read through a lot of this thread and I'm sorry if I missed this answer already, but I picked up a Malus recently as well as a number of upgrades. I've noticed in at least one video someone complaining that the front forks didn't look symmetrical and they though that was a manufacturing defect. Is this normal or not? If not normal I need to swap my bike out as the forks seem fine while riding are definitely not symmetrical.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

My dolo had uneven welded fork arms, but like you said, once you're riding you don't really notice. It's steel, bend it a litle till they're even and they have the 100mm width between the fork dropouts, and you'll be fine. If the lengths are uneven (wheel sits a litle sideways) just file down the dropout a milimeter, and it should straighten the wheel out.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

*Free Wheel Removal tool?*

Hey All, New member and overwhelmed with all the pages on this thread. I'm looking at getting a Dolomite and do basic upgrades for casual riding and trying do all research first.
I searched but couldn't find anything... I know it is in here but what Park Tools Free Wheel Removal tool is needed for the stock free wheel. Would this be the same one for installing the Shimano free wheel 13/34?
Thanks in advance!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Technically, you need the epoch freewheel tool, but I was able to use the standard shimano freewheel tool. I'd try to remove it sooner rather than later if you use the shimano one. Don't want to let the freewheel get too tightened down.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

CheapTexan said:


> Hey All, New member and overwhelmed with all the pages on this thread. I'm looking at getting a Dolomite and do basic upgrades for casual riding and trying do all research first.
> I searched but couldn't find anything... I know it is in here but what Park Tools Free Wheel Removal tool is needed for the stock free wheel. Would this be the same one for installing the Shimano free wheel 13/34?
> Thanks in advance!


The Free Wheel tool in those $29 bike tool kits will work, but you have to grind/file down the outside diameter a millimeter or so.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

CheapTexan said:


> Hey All, New member and overwhelmed with all the pages on this thread. I'm looking at getting a Dolomite and do basic upgrades for casual riding and trying do all research first.
> I searched but couldn't find anything... I know it is in here but what Park Tools Free Wheel Removal tool is needed for the stock free wheel. Would this be the same one for installing the Shimano free wheel 13/34?
> Thanks in advance!


I completely agree with what the folks above said. My 2016 Dolo came with the Epoch freewheel. I wanted to go with an 8sp with a large spread. That luckily lead me to the Epoch 11-34. That one requires the deep Epoch tool that also works on the stock freewheel.

Here is my recent post about it:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-94.html#post12630826

You will need a longer chain to go this route. I counted 114 links on the stock chain. I am not sure if a standard 116 link will work right as I have not yet made the swap.

BTW, you don't need a tool to install a freewheel. Just get it hand tight, then put the wheel on and pedal some.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Those are cassette removal tools. The diameter is different. I'd just pony up the $5 for the right freewheel tool than take the hours of annoying filing work to get a cassette removal tool to work.

The FR-1 (or current FR-1.2) will work, but the correct freewheel tool is the Falcon FR-7 (sorry I called it the Epoch one earlier) because it has thicker splines which won't damage the falcon freewheel split. It's a cheaper freewheel, and the FR-1.2 can strip out the splines if it's really tight. Per Park's website,
"The shape of the FR-7 looks similar to the FR-1 (for Shimano® , Sun Race® , Sachs® and similar freewheels). The FR-7, however, is made slightly larger to fit the slightly larger splined pattern of the Falcon® Freewheel. To make it easy to distinguish between the two removers, the FR-7 has a silver-colored plating. The slightly smaller FR-1 is black."


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Those are cassette removal tools. The diameter is different. I'd just pony up the $5 for the right freewheel tool than take the hours of annoying filing work to get a cassette removal tool to work.
> 
> The FR-1 (or current FR-1.2) will work, but the correct freewheel tool is the Falcon FR-7 (sorry I called it the Epoch one earlier) because it has thicker splines which won't damage the falcon freewheel split. It's a cheaper freewheel, and the FR-1.2 can strip out the splines if it's really tight. Per Park's website,
> "The shape of the FR-7 looks similar to the FR-1 (for Shimano® , Sun Race® , Sachs® and similar freewheels). The FR-7, however, is made slightly larger to fit the slightly larger splined pattern of the Falcon® Freewheel. To make it easy to distinguish between the two removers, the FR-7 has a silver-colored plating. The slightly smaller FR-1 is black."


Thanks Guy! :thumbsup:
I found a Falcon FR-7 for $6.74; Park Tools Fr 7 Falcon Bicycle Freewheel Remover | eBay


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Those are cassette removal tools. The diameter is different. I'd just pony up the $5 for the right freewheel tool than take the hours of annoying filing work to get a cassette removal tool to work.
> 
> The FR-1 (or current FR-1.2) will work, but the correct freewheel tool is the Falcon FR-7 (sorry I called it the Epoch one earlier) because it has thicker splines which won't damage the falcon freewheel split. It's a cheaper freewheel, and the FR-1.2 can strip out the splines if it's really tight. Per Park's website,
> "The shape of the FR-7 looks similar to the FR-1 (for Shimano® , Sun Race® , Sachs® and similar freewheels). The FR-7, however, is made slightly larger to fit the slightly larger splined pattern of the Falcon® Freewheel. To make it easy to distinguish between the two removers, the FR-7 has a silver-colored plating. The slightly smaller FR-1 is black."


Sorry, but that is not a cassette tool. It was for DNP Epoch freewheels (peek at the links). The splines on the 11-34 are buried deep. You need the extended reach to get to them.

You helped me get the proper tool a few pages back that led me down that path.

Just in case, here's a crappy crop of a pic of the 8sp installed, along with the too short of a chain. 









I'm just throwing the route that I went out there in case Mr Texan wants to go with an 8spd. Essentially, two extra gears of range on each side of the stock 7spd. The Epoch can be had with 11-28, 11-30, and 11-34.

Have a good one.


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

I remove a lot of freewheels, and I use the FR-7 on practically all. As explained above, it is a tiny bit larger than the FR-1. 
I find that it goes into most freewheels that the FR-1 is prescribed for. Sometimes rather snugly, and dirt can get in the way a little. But I once stripped an FR-1, so why use it when the FR-7 fits. And frankly, often I cannot even read the name on the freewheel, or I don't bother to try. I just grab the FR-7, and the job is done in seconds. Next!


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

Elliot, I messaged you... from page 1; what BMX handlebar did you use, rise, and did you have to get longer cables?


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

Yes, I replied. You may need to go to your Private Messages inbox to find it, if you are not receiving automatic notifications of such.

For the rest of the gang... On my Beast I installed a BMX handlebar of unknown origin, roughly eight inches tall. The Beast has no cables (single speed, coaster brake), but you would want to install longer ones. I install a lot of BMX handlebars, and I use the kit of four cables bearing the brand name Schwinn, sold at K-mart (and no doubt other stores) for roughly $8. Do not buy the Bell brand cable kit (which I see at Walmart). Bell cable housings lack the nylon lining.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Didn't know that about the Schwinn cables. I know the bell ones are pretty low end, but they do work for a cheap brake replacement. For shifters, not as good. I was really surprised when I worked on my dolo to find out the stock shifter cables were lined index housing, and not just some cheap coil wound housing.


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

I am no fan of those "index" cable housings. Once the outer plastic deteriorates a bit, they fail explosively. 

In fact, I'm no fan of indexed shifting. Good try, good intent. But rarely in correct adjustment. And it is inherent in the basic design of derailleurs to move it a tad past, and then back to avoid rubbing on the side of the cage. 

I much prefer "old-fashioned" friction lever shifters, with a little wing nut to adjust the friction. I buy brand new ones on eBay for reasonable money. Yes, operator skill is required, which is as it should be. (Yes, I'm that old. LOL )

Now... I have some old shifters that are absolutely the cat's whiskers: It has wing-nut adjustable friction to resist the tension of the derailer spring. But it ratchets in the other direction to minimize the effort required by the riders finger. Suntour Power Shifter, it says on it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

My BMX bar was scrounged from a bike reseller/recycler.

You can use the old rear housing and cable for the front with BMX bars, but the cost of decent housing & cable is so low, I couldn't do it.

Between it and an adjustable stem, I needed both new housing and new cables for extra extra length, as I need to re-position the bars & stem (lowering and turning 90 degrees) when I take my bike inside. This extra length meant that a standard rear cable does not reach the rear anymore and I had to use a tandem cable for the rear. Once I fine tune the rear housing length, it could be that a standard rear cable reaches, but for now I have a spare tandem cable. (To facilitate that frequent re-positioning of the stem, I use a fixed clamp at the top of the headset to hold the adjustment of the headset. The stem is above the fixed clamp.)



Canoe said:


> ... New brake cables and housing is nice too. Many bike co-ops have bulk housing and cable at a very good price. A good LBS won't hose you if they sell from bulk supplies (you like black?). For many an LBS, Jagwire Slick-Stainless cables and black CEX housing is a staple. ...


That housing & cable makes for such smooth and immediate actuation. 
The tandem cable wasn't in bulk, but was carded stock.

Drift...

Elliot, you getting a box of CEX brake housing and a box of cables for this summer's event?

Bulk housing is also great as there's no wastage as you're cutting off exactly the amount you need. Got boxes for brake and shifter lines for a friend's home garage bike co-op repair. Depending on the size of the bike and if it was continuous housing or not, redoing brake lines cost between $3 and $8 a bike, typically around $5 for an adult's bike (prices are in CAD). It was so low for kids sizes, that he'd just replace them at his cost on every kids bike that came in, just because. Also easier & quicker to adjust; much nicer actuation.


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## ElliotN (Nov 16, 2013)

Hey, Canoe. That might be a good idea.  I've been using mostly the Schwinn kit mentioned earlier. But we also have a camper who supplies some Jagwire / Novara wires that he gets employee discount on. Those are indeed nice wires.

About those Schwinn cable kits.... Open the package and unwind the housings as soon as you are out of the store. The factory packages them much too tightly, and they take a set that way. 

And... well, yeah.... I reuse rear cables on the front. With 75 bikes to maintain.... LOL


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I find reusing cables usually works o.k. provided the end isn't frayed, but as you said the rears can be cut down to do the front just fine. 

I often got bad results from old housing, so although we kept it around in a bin, just in case, it made a world of difference to use new housing. And the front is so short it's so cheap in bulk, and the front is typically the dominate brake. 

And cables are so cheap in bulk, if there was anything off, I just threw the old in the standby bin. 

We did the math on per bike cost for the first dozen bikes, then the owner/sponsor said it was so cheap it didn't make sense safety-wise & rider ease-of-riding/confidence to not give it free to any bike, nor to take the time to calculate materials used so they pay their cost without any risk of "profit" (he was adamant there be no profit). So he's footing the bills, so that's what's done. 

With the department-store bikes, which was 95% of what we saw at this neighbourhood co-op, there typically such a small window, if any, where the brakes work well. Quality housing and cable improves things a lot for low $. On the low cost end of making-it-work, it can make the difference between ride-able or not. 

p.s.
With the bulk Jagwire shifter housing & cable, and proper terminations, no more index shifting issues...


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

*Hyperglide 7 speed 13-34*

Man there are a lot of pages to reference on this thread. I haven't found the search function to be much help since it searches all the sites threads. 
As far as new gearing I found a SHIMANO CS-HG50 HYPERGLIDE 7 SPEED---13-34T for $20.75 but no where can I find that is a freewheel?; Shimano CS HG50 Hyperglide 7 Speed 13 34T MTB Bicycle Cassette | eBay
Please advise or any other better 7 speed recommendations?
Found a PARK TOOL FREEWHEEL REMOVER TOOL MODEL:FR-7 for $6.74 on ebay.
All this is a new learn for me. :???:


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

CheapTexan said:


> Man there are a lot of pages to reference on this thread. I haven't found the search function to be much help since it searches all the sites threads.
> As far as new gearing I found a SHIMANO CS-HG50 HYPERGLIDE 7 SPEED---13-34T for $20.75 but no where can I find that is a freewheel?; Shimano CS HG50 Hyperglide 7 Speed 13 34T MTB Bicycle Cassette | eBay
> Please advise or any other better 7 speed recommendations?
> Found a PARK TOOL FREEWHEEL REMOVER TOOL MODEL:FR-7 for $6.74 on ebay.
> All this is a new learn for me. :???:


Use the "Search Thread" option in the grey bar right below the thread title. That option allows you to search just the current thread you are on.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CheapTexan said:


> ... Bicycle Cassette ...


That's a CASSETTE, not a freewheel. 
With the Shimano Megarange it is nice to get the 34T, but it's "Alpine" gearing, which means the 34T is a granny bailout gear that takes the place of the 28T. If you look at the gearing of the "rear" fat bikes, they have a proper progression of gears at the higher tooth count, so when climbing you can choose an appropriate gear. Better to get something that has both the 28T and 32T, or 28T and 34T. Search the thread to find examples.

But the easy way, is to put a MTN triple on the front and manually switch back and forth between the 22T and the 32T, depending on if you're in hills or on the flat. 
Back in the thread somewhere is how to ride the bike with the stock gearing and get an idea of what gears you'd use. Here's a blast from the past (in this thread).








The top blue line, as per the list on the right, shows the range and gear inches of the Stock Dolo. The rider didn't use the two three gears, so he knew that having gears to cover those gear ranges weren't important to him. 
The yellow shows what he'd get from the 25T front he was considering, used with the stock freewheel. He'd lose the three "gears" at the top and pickup three nicely spaced at the bottom. 
The blue-grey background shows what you'd get with a mount triple 22T-32T-44T and the stock free wheel. 
On the 22T, same as yellow only trading the top gear position for an even lower spot on the bottom. 23 gear inches is pretty low. 
On the 32T, it's like the stock only the blue lines shows how you've traded the top gear position for another one on the bottom. Good for cruising around or getting to the trail. 
The green background shows the gap of the megarange type rears.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Now, the eight speed freewheel fits on the back. So an eight speed (NOT megarange) is a sneaky way to get a low 32T or 34T, and still have excellent gear progression.

For example, Sunrace has one that's 13-15-17-1-21-24-28-32T. 

Another chart from the past has that freewheel examples with the green background. The red stared one was to show what you'd get with various solo fronts, with the 22T front showing on the group above, that shows blue as the stock front and then the three mountain triple fronts. 
The yellow background immediately above that, shows how the megarange alpine gearing gives you a similar bottom gear, but at the expense of huge gaps (purple lines) in the gearing, and it's right where you'd going to want it. 
WAY at the bottom, you've got three examples of a typical "real" fat bike gear inches. So you can see how a nicely progressing 8 speed freewheel with a mountain triple front gives you a lot of choices. 
And again, the glue-grey background combo near the top shows the stock Dolo rear with a mountain triple, comparing quite favourably. 
So I would really recommend avoiding the megarange due to its alpine gearing gap. You can custom stack a megarange (search back in this thread), but that's more work and you have to accurately source the parts.

As to freewheel removal tools, read a few posts right above here where that is covered.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

Thanks Canoe, But now I am totally confused with all the charts. 
So if I got a SunRace 8 Speed MTB Hybrid Bike Freewheel Thread-On 13-32T it would mount and just not be able to use the 13 if using a 7 speed shifter?
Can't find a 13-34 without the alpine gap?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CheapTexan said:


> ...Can't find a 13-34 without the alpine gap?


Not from Shimano.



CheapTexan said:


> Thanks Canoe, But now I am totally confused with all the charts...


So start with the top blue line and take the time to understand that the horizontal line represents the range of gearing that your gears give you. The diamonds on the line correspond to what a specific gear gives. The number value is Gear Inches, which is determined by the gears and the tire. Using gear inches allows you to see, relatively, what gearing/effort you will end up with by changing the gears. Else you're just changing parts because we tell you to, without regard for what final result in pedalling you're after for your riding style on the terrain you'll use.

So, what's your bike, what's the stock gears, and which ones do you use vs not use, or do you need them all? (most people don't use the top gear, or the top two, or the top three, or even the top four). Do you want more gearing in the hard-to-pedal end to go faster, or do you want more choices on the easy-to-pedal end for climbing?



CheapTexan said:


> So if I got a SunRace 8 Speed MTB Hybrid Bike Freewheel Thread-On 13-32T it would mount and just not be able to use the 13?


Correct (what are the individual gears; make sure there's no gap)

This where the chart is handy. 

You can compare with where your gearing would end up if it ends in 28T vs 32T vs 34T. 
Knowing how hard it was to pedal the stock gears, you can guess how much more gearing you need and how further along the line a different tooth count will place you. 
But unless you've got power legs and/or will be riding only on the flat, you're likely going to want more improvement than having a rear range that goes to 32T or 34T. That means changing the front. But to what. 
FIRST swap out the stock 36T front for a mountain triple 22-32-42T. Used is fine, as long as the teeth are not worn out of spec and will trash the chain. That way you can test drive the bike at 22T in front so you are riding with gears that are in a more useful range for a fat bike. 
Then if the stock bottom end at 28T isn't easy/low enough, then you'll want a 32T or 34T bottom. You can make an informed guess as to which you want.

Take the time to work it through, so you spend your money once, instead of a second or third time to get it right.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

*DOLO $179 at Wally*

From my hours of studying this thread and reading reviews I bought the Dolo for $179 plus the 3 year wally-world Product Care Plan. Also have bought over $150 in upgrades.
7 Speed Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Tigger Shifter
Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth; 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34 
5" Rise MTB comfort bars
New Cables
Bell Memory Foam Saddle, Recline 800
Lay-back seat post
Grips
Speedo Computer

Wish I knew an avid MTB person in my area to help me tinker and set it up!
I'll probably be searchin this thread and asking a lot o questions.
_*Wish Me Luck!*_


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

CheapTexan said:


> From my hours of studying this thread and reading reviews I bought the Dolo for $179 plus the 3 year wally-world Product Care Plan. Also have bought over $150 in upgrades.
> 7 Speed Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Tigger Shifter
> Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth; 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34
> 5" Rise MTB comfort bars
> ...


You bought a 7 speed shifter and an 8 speed freewheel? Why not get an 8 speed shifter so you could use all 8 gears?

Those things are really easy to do, just need some tools. Check YouTube for how to videos.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

blkangel said:


> You bought a 7 speed shifter and an 8 speed freewheel? Why not get an 8 speed shifter so you could use all 8 gears?


Will the stock derailleur work for 8 speed shifter / 8 gears?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

yes it will. I ran it with the 8-speed acera shifter that's about $10 on ebay.


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## crench (Jun 26, 2016)

AMAZING Thread! Such valuable info!!

The Mongoose Dolomite will be my first bike build, and I'm tearing through this and other threads to make sure I'm doing this right..

Just want to post my tools list so I get this right the first time and don't buy anything I don't really need ( these tools are $$$ ! )

*What I Have:*
-Conqueror Bike Stand
-YST BSA Cup & Bearings, with seal to spindle shaft
-Shimano Tourney 7spd 14-28t freewheel (purchased accidentally, intended to order a different item)
-1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches picked up at Harbor Freight for $9 each on sale (couldn't pass up the deal)
-1/4" drive ratchet
-3/8" drive metric hex socket set and a socket adapter kit to fit the -1/4" ratchet
-Pretty sure I have an adjustable crescent wrench somewhere but I've read more than a few times never to use adjustables.

*What I Need:

*Crank Puller for Square Taper Cranks
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/

Shimano Bottom Bracket Removal Remover Tool
http://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicycle-Shimano-Bracket-Removal/dp/B00811WQJS

(2x) 15mm Cone Wrench
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-DCW-4-Double-Wrench/dp/B000WY8LBO/

Lock Ring Spanner
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW-5-Lock-Spanner/dp/B000C17KRI/

Cassette/Rotor Lockring Removal Tool (without pin?)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DEDV70/

Grease
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/

Lube
http://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Original-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B000C14HL0/

I'll be heavily relying on these:

Crank Removal and Installation: Three-Piece | Park Tool

Bottom Bracket Service: Adjustable Type | Park Tool

..as well as this thread, and about a thousand videos I've got bookmarked.

Sorry for the lengthy post.. just anxious to get started and my head is spinning from shimanos to isis to square taper to every little thing requiring a specialized $20 tool, etc.. probably common confusion for newbies.

Anything look off on my list? Any tips or videos you think might help?

Thanks for any input!!! Greatly appreciated and again thanks for this amazing thread!!


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

thomcom said:


> I've read most of this thread over last year, wrenching on my gift-Dolomite. I just spent enough time praising it in the "should I buy my boyfriend a bottom-end bike?" thread that I want to share it here.
> 
> I've ridden about 5k miles in the Colorado mountains on my road bike but haven't been able to ride it much the last few years. My wife saw me eyeballing fat bikes and bought me the Mongoose Dolomite from Walmart for Xmas, $210 shipped to my front door.
> 
> ...


Your post with links to everything was very helpful. A few questions, how did you pull the original quick release seat clamp off? On the Malus it is welded on? Big hammer?

Does anyone know if the Malus uses the same 28.6mm diameter seat post?

I installed several parts last night, trigger shifter, etc. Then I pulled off my rear wheel to replace the gear set, but the tool I have to pull off the gears won't work as it has a post that goes down the normal QR hub, where the Malus just has a solid post, anyway, had everything working perfectly before taking off the wheel, now with it back on my gear shifting is 1 gear off. Did I bump the derailleur putting the wheel back in? Put a washer on the wrong side of the frame? Sorry I am new to wrenching on bikes.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

theWrathofKhan said:


> A few questions, how did you pull the original quick release seat clamp off? On the Malus it is welded on? Big hammer?


If it's welded on, just leave it. Not much weight saving there. You could use an aftermarket lever though.



theWrathofKhan said:


> Then I pulled off my rear wheel to replace the gear set, but the tool I have to pull off the gears won't work as it has a post that goes down the normal QR hub, where the Malus just has a solid post


What you have is a cassette removal tool. You need a freewheel removal tool. Described in detail a couple posts/pages back.



theWrathofKhan said:


> anyway, had everything working perfectly before taking off the wheel, now with it back on my gear shifting is 1 gear off. Did I bump the derailleur putting the wheel back in? Put a washer on the wrong side of the frame? Sorry I am new to wrenching on bikes.


Possibly bumped the derailure, but it shouldn't adjust it one full gear. If you took your hub apart to grease it, possibly put the cone nuts/lock nuts on the wrong side (one is longer than the other). If you didn't take it apart, you probably just bumped the housing out of one of the cable stops. Look at the housing and make sure it's seated along the entire length, including at the shifter.


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## jeffreythree (Jun 13, 2016)

theWrathofKhan said:


> Does anyone know if the Malus uses the same 28.6mm diameter seat post?


Yes, it is 28.6mm.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> What you have is a cassette removal tool. You need a freewheel removal tool. Described in detail a couple posts/pages back.


Thanks so this will meet my needs? https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Falcon/dp/B000WYEHE4/


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## crench (Jun 26, 2016)

from my novice research, that looks like the one.

There was some talk a few pages back regarding FR-1/1.2 vs FR-7 vs the Epoch tool, but I believe the FR-7 was considered the best fit.

this post might be a good starting point for the tools needed for the dolomite, but the tools themselves were not described (what size/model SCW cone wrench is that? what's the pink thing? :
The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 68- Mtbr.com
(edit: i think the pink thing is a tire lever)

to add to the confusion, it looks like he has the FR-1 (black) in that shot, and I don't see a bottom bracket tool.


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

I just bought a Dolomite from the factory store here ($147) and they assembled it, that is the only way they would sell it. So I don't have the knowledge of it like the Canondale I built in 1985 that I built from a bare frame up. 

I have been reading through some of the posts to gleam some information. The item I need help with now is the handlebars. I need to raise them but it seems that they don't raise. Like others here I have back problems (broken back when rear ended on a motorcycle by a pickup at a stoplight) which is why I can't ride my old bike any longer.

Appreciate any help and advice in configuring or modifying this bike. Will primarily be riding it on roads, too old to go mountain biking now, couldn't get up those 6000 foot mountains any more like the Franklins in El Paso.


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

SGM MAC said:


> I just bought a Dolomite from the factory store here ($147) and they assembled it, that is the only way they would sell it. So I don't have the knowledge of it like the Canondale I built in 1985 that I built from a bare frame up.
> 
> I have been reading through some of the posts to gleam some information. The item I need help with now is the handlebars. I need to raise them but it seems that they don't raise. Like others here I have back problems (broken back when rear ended on a motorcycle by a pickup at a stoplight) which is why I can't ride my old bike any longer.
> 
> Appreciate any help and advice in configuring or modifying this bike. Will primarily be riding it on roads, too old to go mountain biking now, couldn't get up those 6000 foot mountains any more like the Franklins in El Paso.


You have been out of the game for awhile based on your old bike. Assuming your old bike had a threaded headset. Only super cheap bikes use those today. In the mid to late 90's bikes moved on to threadless headsets. Your current stem is as high as it can go because it clamps directly to the steerer tube on the fork. Your max height is based on the length of the steerer tube. To get your bars higher you need a higher rise stem and/or a bar with more rise.

There is also option you can get a steerer extender Dimension Steerer Extender > Components > Stems > Stem Parts | Jenson USA


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

SGM MAC said:


> ... The item I need help with now is the handlebars. I need to raise them but it seems that they don't raise. Like others here I have back problems...


What you need to determine, is what position YOU need to be in while you're riding. You may need to experiment to get there. Which could mean you'd be spending money on a solution, then more money when that doesn't work, and so on, and so on.

Do you need less angle on your back? Almost no angle? No angle for upright riding?

Some are good with a trekking bar, or a swept back cruiser bar, a BMX bar, or using an adjustable stem, or combining them. The final adjustable fix if you end up going through the solutions and combos, is usually a BMX bar with an adjustable stem, or the adjustable stem and different bars if you need a different hand/grip position. So you could simply go for an adjustable stem and BMX bars from the start.

Go read this recent post, and the ones following it, regarding someone who needed to be more upright. http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-95.html#post12690721


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

crench said:


> ...There was some talk a few pages back regarding FR-1/1.2 vs FR-7 vs the Epoch tool, but I believe the FR-7 was considered the best fit...


Go read this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-96.html#post12698914, 
and the one below it, and the one two below that.


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## Fuser1983 (Jun 30, 2016)

Hello everyone, I'm a newb to the forum although i've been lurking for a few weeks. I just purchased a Dolomite ($179 at Walmart, $195 w/ tax, free shipping). Couldn't really pass up that deal. I assembled the bike last night but i'm having trouble adjusting the brakes. The disc seems to keep rubbing the pads and i've tried to adjust it and even adjust the wheel but i still get some friction. Other than that I think i'm going to have a ton of fun on it. Now I just need to find some people to ride with!


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

blkangel said:


> You have been out of the game for awhile based on your old bike. Assuming your old bike had a threaded headset. Only super cheap bikes use those today. In the mid to late 90's bikes moved on to threadless headsets. Your current stem is as high as it can go because it clamps directly to the steerer tube on the fork. Your max height is based on the length of the steerer tube. To get your bars higher you need a higher rise stem and/or a bar with more rise.
> 
> There is also option you can get a steerer extender Dimension Steerer Extender > Components > Stems > Stem Parts | Jenson USA


I am 6'2" and the old bike did well though though I had to get an extended seat post and handlebar stem. The frame is a small frame, easier to jump logs and manhandle going down a steep mountain. The problem is it is not suitable for riding on level surfaces, though I have tried. It definitely wasn't cheap, the bare frame was $750 and by the time I finished building it I had over $2100 in it. Still looks good and we have spent many years and miles together.

This extender looks like it might be the way to go.


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Justthefacts84 said:


> I don't know if you noticed the adjustable stem and trekking bar makes it almost like inverting the stock stem which puts you in a very up right position ! Like you I have back problems !It also keeps my weight off the handlebar. All the upgrades I did were upgrades I saw people do here !Look at my shadow in that pic,you can then see how upright I am


Which adjustable stem did you get?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Keep in mind that the adjustable stems, extenders, and big riser bars (monkey bars?) are designed for comfort riding, not jumping curbs and trail riding. They just won't handle that much force, especially under a big rider. And the extenders can rotate if they're not good quality ones (I learned the hard way). If you really want some elevation, I'd go for a good quality BMX style handlebar and a riser stem that's suited for it (matching clamp diameter), or a good mountain bike riser bar.


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Keep in mind that the adjustable stems, extenders, and big riser bars (monkey bars?) are designed for comfort riding, not jumping curbs and trail riding. They just won't handle that much force, especially under a big rider. And the extenders can rotate if they're not good quality ones (I learned the hard way). If you really want some elevation, I'd go for a good quality BMX style handlebar and a riser stem that's suited for it (matching clamp diameter), or a good mountain bike riser bar.


I'm going on 68 years old, I don't think I will be trying to jump any curbs or trails with it. I have been looking through the posts trying to get an idea of a good, proven combination that has worked for others so I don't have to invest a lot of money and time in experimenting. I see some pictures and generic terms but not any brand or model names that I can actually use to buy something. This is definitely going to be for comfort riding. So any combinations that have worked would be appreciated, then I would have a place to start comparing specifications to select one to install.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> Keep in mind that the adjustable stems, extenders, and big riser bars (monkey bars?) are designed for comfort riding, not jumping curbs and trail riding. They just won't handle that much force, especially under a big rider. And the extenders can rotate if they're not good quality ones (I learned the hard way)...


Definitely points to remember.

Qualities to look for in a stem:

two bolts doing the clamping of the stem to the riser (not one),
four bolts doing the camping of a separate piece that holds the bar to the stem (not two, not one),
the adjustable joint should be stepped - shouldn't be infinitely position-able 'cause if it's not tight enough (how much is enough? or will it break?) your position/adjustment can suddenly change while you're riding, and
you don't want any of the above changing on you while you're riding... 
Pretty easy to find 1 & 2. 3 is hard to find. 
With 3, some joints you have to take almost apart to re-position it. Once bolted together, it can't move. 
One brand that has all three, is Ritchey. But they cost more too.



watts888 said:


> ... If you really want some elevation, I'd go for a good quality BMX style handlebar and a riser stem that's suited for it (matching clamp diameter), or a good mountain bike riser bar.


But that combo is often not enough. And before you buy, how do you know what will be enough.

The adjustable stem and BMX bars gives you a whole slew of combinations that can get the grips not only higher but back closer to you than just BMX&riser can, and the combinations net to all sorts of different angles of the grips. And adjustable stems are also available in different stem lengths. Much easier to setup to control your back angle, arm height & reach, and grip angle.

You're putting a lot more leverage on the clamps, so items 1 & 2 above are important, as is watts888 reminder to have matching clamp diameters - kudos for diy, but this IS NOT the time for a beer can shim!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Disclosure:

I have an adjustable stem that is a little weird. It has a *single bolt* that provides the clamping force to the riser while also securing the angle joint. I accept this as:

the angle joint position is not dependant on that bolt tension, but is restricted by teeth at ninety degrees to the joint and a separate metal piece that bolts on to prevent the joint angle from changing once set
(this is better than relying upon clamping force to hold position, but not as strong as the disassemble/reassemble joints, and it relies upon that piece not coming off while riding... thread-locker please, and please don't break), and
the one bolt clamping is convenient for me as I need to rotate the stem 90 degrees and to get my bike in and out of my apartment. 
It's also has only two bolts clamping the bar and uses a purpose-made aluminum alloy shim. This is better than a beer can shim, but BMX bars have more leverage against that clamping force than most other bars.

Bottom line.
So far, the clamping works, but feels like it won't (there's a lot of leverage there, and some flex). So I don't trust it. Which does take away from the enjoyment of the ride.

A Ritchey is on the list of things to get, when there's spare cash.


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Definitely points to remember.
> 
> Qualities to look for in a stem:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the information. The nearest bike shop is a 45 minute drive away and am heading over there this afternoon to look at what they have. Thinking I may be able to get enough heighth by adding a 3 inch steering extender and can probably do that without installing new cables. If that don't work then the adjustable stem and bmx bars look like the way to go, and in the meantime I am not out much money. I was looking at some adjustable stems online today and they were in the $250-400 price range. Think I can get by with something a little cheaper, I don't need a professional stem! Wish I still had my old 1950s era 26" Schwinn Meteor with leather motorcycle seat that I had as a kid. They just don't make them like that any more. I don't drink beer and Jack Daniels bottle caps don't make good shims!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

SGM MAC said:


> ... I was looking at some adjustable stems online today and they were in the $250-400 price range...


wtf?
Try $16 to $55.


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Canoe said:


> wtf?
> Try $16 to $55.


3T ARX LTD STEALTH STEM $335.00
EASTON EC90 SL STEM $250

I scrolled down and found the cheaper ones.


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## Nuckster (Jul 1, 2016)

A lot of people on here hate this store, but you this adjustable stem is on my wifes full squish 27.5, and she seems to like it fine.

Forté Adjustable 31.8mm Stem


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

SGM MAC;
I bought a 5" riser MTB bar for $15 on ebay. Made a world of difference and was able to use the stock cables. Not as upright as cruiser bars but a lot more relaxed on the back, shoulders, and wrists. A short stem would also help. As watts888 has stated with BMX bars you need new cables.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Nuckster said:


> A lot of people on here hate this store, but you this adjustable stem is on my wifes full squish 27.5, and she seems to like it fine.
> 
> Forté Adjustable 31.8mm Stem


I have the same one on all my bikes, it takes a lot of abuse


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

*My Dolo*

Haven't had it a week yet!... Because I'm old  and over 6' tall I moded it with a lay-back seat post, cush gel cruiser seat, larger pedals, gel comfort grips, and upright riser handlebars. 
Got a Shimano Altus SL-M310 8-Speed shifter and Sunrace 8 gear, 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34 Tooth. I haven't gotten the Park Tool FR-7 tool yet so haven't put on the Sunrace gears. Hope it goes smooth when I do try and install it. Never done that before.

Sure hot to be riding in Central Texas but riding a little every day to exercise and get me outa the house.
Hopefully I can stay with it. 

Happy 4th of July Ya'll!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CheapTexan said:


> ...Got a Shimano Altus SL-M310 8-Speed shifter and Sunrace 8 gear, 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34 Tooth. I haven't gotten the Park Tool FR-7 tool yet so haven't put on the Sunrace gears. Hope it goes smooth when I do try and install it. Never done that before...



One trick is to mount the tool in a vice facing upwards, then set the wheel on top of it. Then you can turn the wheel like a big steering wheel with tons of leverage. Don't overpower it; make sure you're turning the correct direction... 
If you haven't cleaned out and re-greased the rear hub (which for hub longevity _should_ have been done before ever riding it), then the time to do that is when you've got the freewheel off. 
(Note when setting the cones when you're done: on these bikes the threads are not precision threads; it's common to have the cones pressed tighter than you had them set when you tighten the locking nut. Test, if too tight, back the locking nut off, then back the cone off a tiny amount, then lock it again and test how tight it is. Expect to try a few times before you get it right.)
When you put the new freewheel on, it only needs to be firm. Pedalling will tighten it all it needs to be. 
Before you put a freewheel on, make sure it's turning easily and has been nicely oiled inside where the paws are. Easier to do it now than later. 
With your height/weight, do remember to take it easy when you ride, as you can easily bend the weak rear axles on these.

That 25-28-34T progression is so much nicer than the gapped Alpine megaranges.

I see you've got some hills there. You've got the height so you may have the legs to power up hills, but do keep in mind the extra range a mountain triple on the front will give; puts the gearing closer to what we see on a "real" fat bike. Super easy to manually move the chain between the 22T or 32T chain-rings.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

Canoe said:


> I see you've got some hills there. You've got the height so you may have the legs to power up hills, but do keep in mind the extra range a mountain triple on the front will give; puts the gearing closer to what we see on a "real" fat bike. Super easy to manually move the chain between the 22T or 32T chain-rings.


Thanks Canoe, :thumbsup: I may have questions when I get into it.
_To many hills here!_  For now I am riding fairly level ground working on just riding some. If I stay with it I will probably end up doing the mountain triple on the front mod.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

CheapTexan said:


> ..._To many hills here!_  For now I am riding fairly level ground working on just riding some. If I stay with it I will probably end up doing the mountain triple on the front mod.


Hmmm
I guess what comes to mind is, how much effort are you expending to ride it as it is now? If that effort is too much, will you not stick with it. If a mountain triple will let you ride with a reasonable (sustainable?) amount of effort (or ride more places, or more interesting places), will that mean you stick with it...

I got my mountain triple used from a local bike co-op/recycler.

I don't recall seeing if you've gone to lighter easier rolling tubes. The stock ones that came with my early Dolo, are more like 'tractor-duty' thickness. Their weight doesn't matter much, but the crazy thick butyl rubber really robs energy away as it's rolled into and out of the contact patch.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Hmmm
> I don't recall seeing if you've gone to lighter easier rolling tubes. The stock ones that came with my early Dolo, are more like 'tractor-duty' thickness. Their weight doesn't matter much, but the crazy thick butyl rubber really robs energy away as it's rolled into and out of the contact patch.


I found 2- Vee Rubber 26 x 4.0 SCHRADER Valve Fat Bike tubes for $22.95 total.
I haven't searched the thread yet on tube recommendations?
Outa funds for now but also found Vee Rubber Vee8 Fat Bike tires for $26.49 each with minimal shipping. I read that with these it pits it about 8 pounds lighter than stock.
I'll search for a local bike co-op/recycler.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

NO to Vee8. Not worth it IMHO.
You haven't got the same tires that are the pigs that came with my Dolo. 
Used to be to expect 7 to 8 lbs off by changing both tires & tubes. 
Weigh your tires first, to get an idea of how much necessary rubber they may have. Same with your tubes. Weigh them when you've got the rear off to do the freewheel. Then you can have an idea how much you'd benefit. Weight doesn't matter much (but eight lbs is a lot over time if you're climbing a lot), it's the excess rubber causing excess rolling resistance. Changes tires for lower weight isn't worth it. You want a better gripping and/or better riding tire, depending on when you'll ride on what terrain. 

Tubes are lower cost item to change. Any 26" downhill tube. (you need larger tubes if you're going low PSI for snow or sand (typically under 8 psi); search the fat bike forum for recommendations for that)


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## blkangel (Aug 8, 2014)

This is not entirely true. If wheel weight, rotational mass, did not matter people would not seek out lighter wheel and tire combos. Wheel/tire weight does not have a huge effect when moving at a constant speed but the constant slowing and accelerating that you will see on a mtb will be noticeable with a heavier wheel/tire combo vs a lighter one. As was mentioned above, and correctly it also hurts climbing as heavier wheel/tire combos take.more energy when climbing. And as I mentioned before, when accelerating or changing speed, a heavier wheel will require more energy.

The above post states that it is not the weight but the excess rubber that is causing rolling resistance. But guess what, excess rubber means excess weight.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Here's a gear inches chart for the Dolo, with stock gearing and with two of the 8 speed freewheels. 
As the numbers are calculated exactly, I chose to use a Surly Bud, as it's 30", which is pretty typical for a replacement tire.


The blue line at the top is the stock Dolo gearing: ~38 to ~77 gear inches. 
The gray background is the stock freewheel with a mountain triple. 
You can see how the 22T gives you an extra four lower gears for climbing. And on 32T it goes up to one gear short of stock. 
The yellow background shows the 13-32T range, for the stock chain-ring and a mountain triple. 
The green background shows it for the 13-34T. 
The four at the bottom are some "real" fat bike gearings. 









The dashed orange line going down from the left end of the top stock line shows you that you'll gain one easier gear with the 34T of the 13-34T. That freewheel and the 22T of a mountain triple gives you five easier gears better than stock, with the equivalent of the easiest three stock gears.

Bottom line: going to 32T or 34T on the freewheel is nice, but for those or the stock freewheel, a mountain triple's 22T takes you into the range of the "real" fat bikes. So if you're going to be climbing, or find the stock gearing more work than you'd like for pedalling...


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

blkangel said:


> This is not entirely true. If wheel weight, rotational mass, did not matter people would not seek out lighter wheel and tire combos. Wheel/tire weight does not have a huge effect when moving at a constant speed but the constant slowing and accelerating that you will see on a mtb will be noticeable with a heavier wheel/tire combo vs a lighter one. As was mentioned above, and correctly it also hurts climbing as heavier wheel/tire combos take.more energy when climbing. And as I mentioned before, when accelerating or changing speed, a heavier wheel will require more energy.
> 
> The above post states that it is not the weight but the excess rubber that is causing rolling resistance. But guess what, excess rubber means excess weight.


No one's getting a Dolo for racing. So acceleration is not a big issue. 
Oddly, the momentum of fat bike tires has helped with some terrain and obstacles, but we don't want crazy weight. 
As stated, eight pounds can matter for climbing. 
It's hard to put a number on rolling resistance (which is not weight), but the more rubber the higher the weight, which is why people get distracted by what we can easily measure (weight), and think weight's the be all and end all and the "purpose", and forget the major benefit of the tire & tube upgrade, which is a reduction in rolling resistance (plus other obvious improvements over cheap stock tires). It's also why I recommended that he weigh his tires to get an idea how much excess rubber is/isn't in there affecting rolling resistance. 
The rolling resistance (major) and terrain grip (minor) is also why you see the recommendation of going to 120 tpi.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The new stock dolomite tires aren't too bad. You can still upgrade them, but I'd weight the tires first. Realistically, for road use, just air them u to 25 psi and go with it. They're not that bad for road. Heavy on the hills, but it's a fatbike. It's going to be heavy.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

SGM MAC said:


> Thanks for the information. The nearest bike shop is a 45 minute drive away and am heading over there this afternoon to look at what they have. Thinking I may be able to get enough heighth by adding a 3 inch steering extender and can probably do that without installing new cables. If that don't work then the adjustable stem and bmx bars look like the way to go, and in the meantime I am not out much money. I was looking at some adjustable stems online today and they were in the $250-400 price range. Think I can get by with something a little cheaper, I don't need a professional stem! Wish I still had my old 1950s era 26" Schwinn Meteor with leather motorcycle seat that I had as a kid. They just don't make them like that any more. I don't drink beer and Jack Daniels bottle caps don't make good shims!



If it is any help, I saw this stem extender at REI over the weekend:
https://www.rei.com/product/700227/delta-cycle-threadless-stem-riser

Have a good one.


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## Willy44! (Jul 7, 2016)

Want to replace my Chainring on Malus can any one help with the process?


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

tonered said:


> If it is any help, I saw this stem extender at REI over the weekend:
> https://www.rei.com/product/700227/delta-cycle-threadless-stem-riser
> 
> Have a good one.


 Thanks for the information. Wasted 90 minutes on the road going to a bike shop that has next to nothing in the way of parts and accessories. Ordered a Diamond stem riser on Amazon and got a Richey adjustable stem. Found out the Richey's max angle was exactly the same as the stock one, so I put it on backwards, which helped me sit up straighter but my knees hit the handlebars now. Need to get rid of the shifter, I can only get 2 1/2 fingers on the right handlebar grip without hit the shifter and changing gears. Any recommendations on a shifter I could get without buying the whole gear set?

In the meantime I am reading up on what other things I could do to improve this bike.

I like the laid back seat post, that would definitely help.


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## CheapTexan (Jun 23, 2016)

SGM MAC said:


> Any recommendations on a shifter I could get without buying the whole gear set?


A lot of info on this thread. Depending on where you ride if not totally flat you will probably want to get a lower gear.
For little investment: Shimano Altus SL-M310 8-Speed shifter and Sunrace Freewheel 8 gear, 13-15-17-19-22-25-28-34 Tooth 
See up this page on gearing charts and recommendations.
Get a riser handle bar for a more comfortable ride.
If tall a laid back seat post helps a lot.
A different padded saddle is nice.
Good Luck!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Shimano Tourney 7-speed shifter or Acera 8-speed trigger shifter is a direct swap for the stock shifter, once you swap the housing & cable and install it. You'll have to re-adjust the rear derailure because you'll have to disconnect the shift cable, but that's an easy thing to learn to do with youtube.

Alternative; Get a different set of full length grips you like and move the shifter to the inside of the brake lever. It will make shifting harder, but you won't accidentally shift any more. And you'll need new grips to do a trigger shifter anyway.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Willy44! said:


> View attachment 1080673
> Want to replace my Chainring on Malus can any one help with the process?


You'll need the falcon freewheel removal tool to remove the old freewheel, about $10 online. (or the shimano freewheel tool may work, mine did). 
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Falcon/dp/B000WYEHE4

If you purchase the freewheel from the LBS, they would probably do it for free if you remove the wheel from your bike. Only takes about 30 seconds to do. The new freewheel just spins onto the hub. No tools needed.

For info on the 8-speed upgrade, which only requires you to buy an 8-speed freewheel instead of the 7-speed, and new 8-speed trigger shifter.
https://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/s...surements-fox-suspension-forks-rs-sid-a2c.gif


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Willy44! said:


> View attachment 1080673
> Want to replace my Chainring on Malus can any one help with the process?


Sorry, missed the "chainring" part. Is that your bike? Or is that what you want to do to your bike?


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## Willy44! (Jul 7, 2016)

Great info already had the Free wheel done now just want to replace the front chainring the stock one look bad. Going to keep the ratio just need some parts # that will work for that type of direct connect to the cranks.


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## Willy44! (Jul 7, 2016)

That is my bike i also have A Vinson working on both.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Willy44! said:


> ...just want to replace the front chainring the stock one look bad.


The one in the picture is definitely not stock. That one has already been swapped out, so it should be easy to change the chainring to one with the same bolt pattern. Probably 104 BCD.


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## Willy44! (Jul 7, 2016)

That is original.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Willy44! said:


> That is original.


OK. In that case, that's not a Malus. The stock Malus crankset is a 5-arm riveted steel ring with a plastic bash guard, same as on the dolomite. The picture shows a 4-arm crankset that appears to have a 104BCD 32T chainring bolted to it.

Better pictures will be needed to verify what's on the bike right now. In general, to remove the crankarm, you'll need a crankarm removal tool. Any aftermarket square taper crankset will work, but it will have a different chainline.


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## Willy44! (Jul 7, 2016)

Here is what is look like.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Strange. Looks like mongoose must have updated their cranks. Same press fit crankarm to chainring carrier that my dolo had, but it looks like a 4-arm crank now. Two options. Remove the existing ring by drillling out rivets if they're rivets or unbolt if it's got bolts, and bolt up a new ring. Simple and easy if it's 104BCD. Can't tell from the picture, but you should be able to measure it to verify (look up how to do it on Sheldon Brown's website). If you want something fancier, at the end of the day, it's just a square taper crankset. Pull it off as previously described and throw on any square taper crank you want. Just be forewarned, it will most likely move the crankarm further out than they currently are. Might be able to find some BMX or road cranks that don't move them out as much because they are usually designed with narrower tires in mind, but most mountain bike cranks will push them out.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Mine Malus so far:


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Seatpostagedeon !!!

I can't say much because I did it to my dolo, but man, that's high. What length seatpost? Please say it's still has plenty of post left inside the frame for minimum insertion (at least 1" below where the chainstays and top tube meet the seat tube).


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Seatpostagedeon !!!
> 
> I can't say much because I did it to my dolo, but man, that's high. What length seatpost? Please say it's still has plenty of post left inside the frame for minimum insertion (at least 1" below where the chainstays and top tube meet the seat tube).


It's this 450mm seat post: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015GQK1TW/

It's well below the minimum insertion mark and I'm 6'5" so I either need a bigger bike or I have to do this. Here in Japan the option was to pay $2000 for a Specialized fatbike in Large or get this for less than $400 with all the upgrades. I have this coming as well to raise the hand position: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014VV9TA/


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Hey all, haven't been on here lately. Took into consideration everyone's advice and had to order parts and some of them are going to take a month to get even though they were sold and shipped by Amazon and not a third party. Weird, and I'm a Prime Member. Waiting impatiently so I can start building. 

I was just notified by Amazon, that part of my order was cancelled. It was submitted two weeks ago. Crap.

New order am looking for a freewheel more suitable for level riding. I am looking at SunRace 7spd 13-28 Freewheel 13,15,17,19,21,24,28. Any suggestions?

Can't tell you how much I appreciate everyone's help.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

SGM MAC said:


> ... New order am looking for a freewheel more suitable for level riding. I am looking at SunRace 7spd 13-28 Freewheel 13,15,17,19,21,24,28. Any suggestions?...


O.K., I'll bite. 
Why are you looking for a new freewheel?
For which bike?
Which tires and how much do you weigh?
How do you find it roll/pedals/rides for you as it is?


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Canoe said:


> O.K., I'll bite.
> Why are you looking for a new freewheel?
> For which bike?
> Which tires and how much do you weigh?
> How do you find it roll/pedals/rides for you as it is?


Mongoose Dolomite, stock tires.
Like most mountain based bikes they don't do well on level surfaces at high speeds. I can't pedal fast enough once it gets going on a slight downgrade, so need a higher gear. The only ones I can find are Shimano or Sunrace both 13-28. Bike rides fine otherwise and I like the fat tires. I don't do mountains (or even hills) anymore. 
I weigh 240 and still losing weight.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

https://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS

An 11-28T freewheel is more difficult to get off the hub because you need extra skinny freehub tools, but it will be better for most flat riding. And how often does the average person replace a freehub, except to replace the cheap stock ones.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

SGM MAC said:


> Mongoose Dolomite, stock tires...
> I can't pedal fast enough once it gets going on a slight downgrade, so need a higher gear.


Which stock tires? There've been a few.

Can't pedal fast enough on slight downgrade. But you're good going back up that downgrade?
Which of the stock gears:

do you use?
do you not use?








(reusing an old chart, so there's markings on it that don't apply to your situation; look at the orange circled ranges)

Not much improvement in going from stock to 13,15,17,19,21,24,28T.
The top line is the stock Dolo.
The fifth line down is an eight speed that's 13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32T, same as what you were looking at if you ignore the 32T on the low end. Stretches things out a bit. The top three on the stock Dolo of 60, ~67 and ~77 GI would be changed to ~64, ~72 and ~83 GI. Not a big change, but some improvement, and the spacing is nice.

You may want to look into a mountain triple front (22-32-42T). The three lines with the glue-gray background are the stock freewheel with the triple. 

On 42T, the fourth line shows what a stock freewheel would give you. The gearing is shifted so you keep roughly the same top six gears and gain another one up at 90 GI. The top two on stock Dolo are ~67 & ~77 would be replaced by the top three being ~70, ~79 and 90 GI. 
The eight line (yellow background) shows would you could get on 42T with the 13,15,17,19,21,24,28T gearing. Where the top two on stock Dolo are ~67 & ~77, the top of this setup is ~66, ~74, ~84 and ~97 GI. 
If you are using all of the stock Dolo gears now, then a combo of a mountain triple's 42T with an eight speed freewheel makes sense. With 32T or 34T on the low end, it gives you the same on the low end as a stock Dolo while providing a big change in gearing on the upper end. 

Stock Dolo ~38 to ~77 GI,
42T driving 8 speed 13-32T has ~39 to ~97 GI.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

watts888 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS
> 
> An 11-28T freewheel is more difficult to get off the hub because you need extra skinny freehub tools, but it will be better for most flat riding. And how often does the average person replace a freehub, except to replace the cheap stock ones.


That's certainly the easiest solution.

Stock Dolo ~38 to ~77 GI,
Stock Dolo 36T chainring driving 7 speed 11-28T has ~38 to ~98 GI. (in orange, near bottom)
(~38, 45, ~51, 60, 72, ~83 & ~98 GI)









The gears are a little spread out, but you're on the flat anyway, and the 8 speeds starting at 11 only add an additional gear onto the low end (30, 32 or 34), not another in the middle for less spread between gears in the 11-28T range.

Back to: which of the stock gears to you use?

If there are grades where you'd like an easier gear, then look at the 8 speed 11-32T?

OOPS: charts says 11-26T. It's actually charting 11-28T.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Out on a recent ride:


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## SGM MAC (Jun 30, 2016)

Canoe

Thanks for the info. I have been looking at freewheels and reading various reviews. I will probably stick with the stock freewheel because all the reviews I am reading on the DNP freewheels basically say they are junk, some have even broken in half.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

SGM MAC said:


> Canoe
> Thanks for the info. I have been looking at freewheels and reading various reviews. I will probably stick with the stock freewheel because all the reviews I am reading on the DNP freewheels basically say they are junk, some have even broken in half.


Too bad. 
At one time or another I've read that with just about every freewheel. 
If you're heading out on wilderness trails where a breakdown would put you at risk, then with these bikes you're going to need to look at a lot more than the freewheel...

Did you see a specific problem with the 11-28T? I'm seeing one guy where it failed on the flat 'during a sprint at 30 mph'. Another says 1100 miles with working great and no issues.

But, I haven't seen your answer to: which stock gears do you use?


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

The stock freewheel on the newer Dolos is a DNP freewheel. I swapped in a DNP 8spd (11-34) and couldn't be happier. 

Have a good one.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

While it seems that the handlebars on the Dolomite have a 31.8 diameter they certainly do not on my Malus. The handlebars I ordered don't fit. Does that mean that it's 25.4?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

theWrathofKhan said:


> While it seems that the handlebars on the Dolomite have a 31.8 diameter they certainly do not on my Malus. The handlebars I ordered don't fit. Does that mean that it's 25.4?


My Dolo bars measured 25.0, so call it 25.4.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929

Have you considered measuring yours?


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Canoe said:


> My Dolo bars measured 25.0, so call it 25.4.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410.html#post11049929
> 
> Have you considered measuring yours?


I guess I really should by a caliper, but I don't have one handy, which is why I asked.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

mountain bikes really only come in the 25.4 and 31.6 diameters. BMX can be different, but that's a different subject, hopefully. If you bought a 31.6mm handlebar, just get a 31.6mm stem. they're less than $10 on amazon, and you can get the length you want.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> mountain bikes really only come in the 25.4 and 31.6 diameters. BMX can be different, but that's a different subject, hopefully. If you bought a 31.6mm handlebar, just get a 31.6mm stem. they're less than $10 on amazon, and you can get the length you want.


Thanks for the recommendation. I am very new to bike mechanics so I really don't know much at all about it. I'm 6'5" so any extra height I can get from the stem would be helpful. What do you recommend?


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

The stock bars and stem on the Dolo are 25.4, do yourself a favor and upgrade to a 31.6 4-bolt stem as well (the steerer tube is 1 1/8"). There is a newer 35.0 standard out now, too, so beware that there are several potential sizes.

The first time I bunny hopped my dolo the bars flipped upside down...I ordered an inexpensive 4-bolt stem from China off ebay and put some bars from the parts box on, no more problems. My post with the specific stem is back in this thread somewhere, probably around January 2015.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Looks like we may have an alternate soon, in a Sealed Cartridge Bearing at 100mm.
> VP Components VP-BC63
> Expected to be in the $20 range.
> VP Components ? 100mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket | FAT-BIKE.COM
> ...


Are these available yet or not? Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/BB-SET-100x137-5-XLT-STL-CUP/dp/B00H3T4LB0/


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

theWrathofKhan said:


> Are these available yet or not? Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/BB-SET-100x137-5-XLT-STL-CUP/dp/B00H3T4LB0/


Just get the YST bearings and be done with it.

https://www.amazon.com/YST-Sealed-B...F8&qid=1470531348&sr=8-1&keywords=yst+bearing


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

theWrathofKhan said:


> Are these available yet or not? Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/BB-SET-100x137-5-XLT-STL-CUP/dp/B00H3T4LB0/


That Amazon review says that it does NOT fit the Dolomite.

Like AZ says, just get the YST for $6.50 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Bottom-Bracket-Bike-Crank-Bearing-English-Threaded-BSA-Cup-Set-NEW-/391523983412?hash=item5b28a5e034:g:Ry8AAOSwnQhXoln-


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

Here is a 31.8 (1-1/8") Hussefelt Stem with the shim to make it fit on our Mongoose 25.4 bar. The shim is the silver color ring around the bar inside of the stem.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Yst for the win. Done it, it works.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

vid1900 said:


> That Amazon review says that it does NOT fit the Dolomite.


Agree, because I'm the one who wrote that review. I bought the larger one at 164mm, and even it was too narrow with the SRAM crankset I had. It was close though (maybe 3-5mm), so if you find a crankset that has a really wide Q-factor or uses a really narrow bottom bracket, it may work. It did not work for my cranks. Might have some luck if you're willing to bend the frame a little, but you're on your own there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM1OWOO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

vid1900 said:


> That Amazon review says that it does NOT fit the Dolomite.
> 
> Like AZ says, just get the YST for $6.50 shipped:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Bottom-Bracket-Bike-Crank-Bearing-English-Threaded-BSA-Cup-Set-NEW-/391523983412?hash=item5b28a5e034:g:Ry8AAOSwnQhXoln-


I am sorry for the dumb question, but I thought the OEM bracket already has unsealed bearings. What's the difference?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The ebay link is written wrong. Those YST cups have a seal.

I noticed with my YST cups, getting the bearing pre-load just right was a pain because the seal gave a false impression of tight bearings. Since they are easy to push out, I'd recommend popping out the seals when its time to install and adjust the bearings. They will simply slide back in when you're done.


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## xpepp13 (Aug 13, 2016)

To many posts look through and no luck in the search, so can someone reply or direct me to the specifications of the Dolomite? I need to know the size diameter of the *headset post* and *seat post* first off, and basically everything else so I can start doing a few upgrades. I am a complete novice, but a very fast learner. I spoke to my local bike shop, Revolution Bicycle here in Eureka, and my rep said eventually it would be a good idea to upgrade the *crankset, pedals and tires*. I have a good idea about what pedals and tires I may want, but no idea about the _crankset size _or really anything other than *price point of around $100*. I'll be cruising around town and on light trails and beaches. Nothing insane. I've been trolling the board for a few hours and I'm not getting what I want, so I thought I would just ask. Thanks, and loving the forum.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

From earlier in the thread:



Canoe said:


> Measurements to the nearest 1/16".
> (indoors, on flat concrete floor, frame vertical, fork straight)
> (I'm describing where I measure to/from, in case I chose the wrong point; I'm sure someone will be kind enough to correct me)
> 
> ...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Damn, forgot how heavy those tubes and tires were on the first gen dolo.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Has anyone tried the X-Fusion dropper post on the DoMalus?


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## xpepp13 (Aug 13, 2016)

Appreciate it! Thanks


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Is the bottom bracket shell a 100mm? I thought it was longer since the crank is not upgradeable. How long does the spindle has to be to clear the chain stays? I found a cartridge bottom bracket for 80-110mm bb shell. I have a Vinson wheel set waiting for a good deal on a dolo/hitch/malus and would like to upgrade to cartridge to avoid maintenance.

Bottom Bracket Cartridge 170mm FAT TIRE BIKE -83-110mm BB, Sick Bike Parts


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## xpepp13 (Aug 13, 2016)

I'm pretty sure it's 111mm.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

As listed in post 2481, the bottom bracket shell is 100mm and the crank spindle length is 189mm. The replacement spindle length will depend on the crankarms you have, but I wouldn't get the bottom bracket in the link. Most of the people who have bought that style of bottom bracket (or most cheap bottom brackets) have been very disappointed. Best possibility is the one linked to earlier (post 7477). It just barely hits on some cranksets, so you could possibly file down the cranks or offset the bottom bracket to make it work or look for an extra wide crankset. 

The only proven method is either using the stock axle with new YST bearing cups or getting a 200+ dollar external bearing upgrade designed for a fatbike with a 190mm rear axle width (raceface turbine and others linked to early in this post).


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Great thread, upgrading the bottom bearings!


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

Luis_fx35 said:


> Is the bottom bracket shell a 100mm? I thought it was longer since the crank is not upgradeable. How long does the spindle has to be to clear the chain stays? I found a cartridge bottom bracket for 80-110mm bb shell. I have a Vinson wheel set waiting for a good deal on a dolo/hitch/malus and would like to upgrade to cartridge to avoid maintenance.
> 
> Bottom Bracket Cartridge 170mm FAT TIRE BIKE -83-110mm BB, Sick Bike Parts


Here is what I use on my Dolomite:https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-M361-Hybrid-Crankset-Black/dp/B004V2996E and this: Origin8 100x164mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket - Modern Bike. The cranks are a little close to the chainstays but it works. If you need more clearance, use the 170mm length crank arm instead of 175mm.


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## ImaBum (Jun 1, 2014)

I traded my dolomite in (sold it to a really nice family) for a RadRover. 

Still have my beast - but wow for $200-ish bucks for these mongoose bikes for riding around the neighborhood - what a great value & blast to ride!!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> Here is what I use on my Dolomite:https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-M361-Hybrid-Crankset-Black/dp/B004V2996E and this: Origin8 100x164mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket - Modern Bike. The cranks are a little close to the chainstays but it works. If you need more clearance, use the 170mm length crank arm instead of 175mm.


You got a pic? How close is clearance on left and right side? I've got that bottom bracket at home, and it was right at the limit with my SRAM Truvative crankset on the right arm. Barely cleared it on the stand, but if I pushed on the pedals the frame would flex just enough to make contact. Did you space the right side bottom bracket with a washer, or use a bottom bracket front derailure mount?


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> You got a pic? How close is clearance on left and right side? I've got that bottom bracket at home, and it was right at the limit with my SRAM Truvative crankset on the right arm. Barely cleared it on the stand, but if I pushed on the pedals the frame would flex just enough to make contact. Did you space the right side bottom bracket with a washer, or use a bottom bracket front derailure mount?


I just used the parts I linked in the previous post. No washers or anything, got about 4-5 mm clearance on each side. I'll post a pic tomorrow and a couple more thing of note;

1. I'm using the middle ring (32 tooth) and I'll probably get a 36 or 40 tooth ring instead.

2. 7 gears are plenty for me (rode/ride my BMX 46 in front 16 tooth freewheel in the back for the longest time.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Updated the bottom bearings, any tips about getting the correct adjustment. What tool is needed to adjust the not pedal side? Hard to keep it where I think it should be and then tighten the lock ring.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

striker64 said:


> Updated the bottom bearings, any tips about getting the correct adjustment. What tool is needed to adjust the not pedal side? Hard to keep it where I think it should be and then tighten the lock ring.


Youtube videos and experience. You need both the adjuster tool (pin spanner for the YST cup or basic wrench for the stock BB) and the lockring tool at the same time. I found I always had to over tighten the adjuster cup a litle bit (18/ to 1/16 turn) and when I tightened down the lock ring, it would pull the cup out just enough. When tightening the lock ring, you have to hold the adjuster cup in place.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Youtube videos and experience. You need both the adjuster tool (pin spanner for the YST cup or basic wrench for the stock BB) and the lockring tool at the same time. I found I always had to over tighten the adjuster cup a litle bit (18/ to 1/16 turn) and when I tightened down the lock ring, it would pull the cup out just enough. When tightening the lock ring, you have to hold the adjuster cup in place.


Would the spanner tool be SPA-2?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

This is a good description of bearing maintenance and pictures a guy did on an Iron Horse Porter, which is very similar to a dolo/malus/hitch.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/ir...me-bike-after-all-1017417-2.html#post12753779


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## KTMNealio (Jun 17, 2016)

Bottom bracket shell is a 111mm (Campagnolo road BB). I tried the 100mm fatty BB and it doesn't fit (too narrow). Which sucks because square taper cranks are no good for bigger guys.

I smoked my cranks and replaced them with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081UV7LC

I took the big ring off and it has almost the exact chainline on the middle ring. They are much better cranks than stock.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> You got a pic? How close is clearance on left and right side? I've got that bottom bracket at home, and it was right at the limit with my SRAM Truvative crankset on the right arm. Barely cleared it on the stand, but if I pushed on the pedals the frame would flex just enough to make contact. Did you space the right side bottom bracket with a washer, or use a bottom bracket front derailure mount?


 Here are the pics:


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

striker64 said:


> Updated the bottom bearings, any tips about getting the correct adjustment. What tool is needed to adjust the not pedal side? Hard to keep it where I think it should be and then tighten the lock ring.


Everything you need is in this kit:Professional 44pcs Bicycle Cycling Repair Tool Kit Bike Mechanic Tool Set W2G3 | eBay

If you shop around, you can find this even cheaper. Most of us are NOT pro bike mechanics so the "El Cheapo" tool kit will suffice.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> Most of us are NOT pro bike mechanics so the "El Cheapo" tool kit will suffice.


Second. I've torn my bikes apart with a tool kit like this multiple times. Only tool that's worn out is the crankarm puller (it was used a lot, and I easily fixed it with a file) and the chain breaker (because I messed up one day when using it). The above linked tool kit has the headset tool used on older bikes with a threaded fork, and the bottom bracket tool for adjustable bottom bracket cups with lockring (like on the dolo).

as an alternative, if you ever plan on getting a bike with an external bottom bracket (shimano hollowtech, SRAM GXP sorta stuff), one of these might be a better choice. 
Bikehand Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit | eBay
Universal Bicycle Home Mechanic 25pc Tool Kit Set Repair with A Case | eBay


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

I see that external bottom bracket thingy in the link you provided. I purchased that kind of crankset for my Dolomite but it was too narrow. I'm probably going to use it on my sons Hitch (Going to first grind 10mm off of the bottom bracket shell width).

If it works, I'll post up some pics of these modifications


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

I'm probably answering my own question, but has anyone had a problem with the KMC chains on the new Dolos? Last night mine split apart. I had just checked it before leaving the house, just one section, and it was better than 75% on the Park Tool wear gauge.

I was climbing the first hill on my route and it wouldn't stay in a gear, hopping both up and down. It looks like one side plate came free and was catching on the shift cams in the sprocket.

Given the lack of wear and that I do need a slightly longer chain for the 11-34t freewheel, I will try to match up the same chain and an splice in a link or two, if I need to.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just get a new KMC 8-speed chain off amazon. The cheap 8-speed amazon chains are pretty damn strong.
Z72: chamfered inner plates with Bulls-eye rivets for 7-8 speed. $10 (this is the one I use)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CN6QA2

Z51: standard bushingless, chamfered plate chain for 5-8 speed. $9
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AOA3PS

The stock chain is OK, but not great. If it started coming apart, it was probably due to a manufacturing defect, bad shift at some time, or some other damage to the drivetrain system. Chains are cheap, so just replace it. Take a good look at the rest of the drivetrain though to make sure something else wasn't damaged.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

I am going to start with a new chain, but most chains come with only 116 links. The stock chain was only 114 links that I counted. So, I will need to splice in a link or two from the old chain to work with the 34t freewheel. This is the reason that I'd like to match it up.

The KMC website has some good info on their chain types. I just need to get the old chain near the computer. I think it is this one:
X9L Silver » KMC Chain

Although, for the price ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XHPX3G/ ), I could buy two of the ones that you linked for much less.

I had not felt any defect in the chain. I cleaned and waxed it twice since March when I bought the Dolo.

Thank for the info.

Have a good one.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

I purchased a Malus for 129 when Amazon had them on sale back in March. I actually paid only 60 bucks because I received an 80 dollar gift card for signing up for the Amazon credit card so I couldn't pass that deal up. Anyhow I had the bent fork issue that many have reported. Amazon wanted me to send the whole thing back but I just contacted Pacific cycles, sent a pic of the issue and in 3 days had a new fork shipped to my house. However getting the bike coincided with me getting a new road bike (Surly Pacer) and building up a 29er from scratch so I never replaced the fork or completely assembled the bike because I was busy riding the other bikes. Finally assembled it yesterday and for a bike that cost be 60 bucks I am pretty happy. I got the brakes dialed in so they are no longer rubbing and the rear derailleur just needed a slight adjustment but its riding pretty nicely. 

I purchased it knowing its limits and weight but also knowing I have a ton of spare parts around to upgrade it without much money. Ordered a different set of handlebars for 10 bucks from Ebay and will use a trigger shifter I already have to get rid of the grip shifts and put on a different mountain bike seat and post that I also have sitting around. I have a set of Avid bb7's I may throw on as well. Aside from that the only additional money I see spending on it is for a new set of lighter tires and tubes. 

It rides pretty nice and my main goal for it is really just a bike to tool around in the winter with.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

And that's what the dolo/malus/hitch/etc... are good for. you're spare seatpost might not work because of the odd-ball steel seatpost size, but replacment alloy ones are cheap. BB7 brakes were a good upgrade for me, and only needed a few washers as spacers. After cleaning all the bearings and adjusting them, the only real issue I had with the bike (other than the weight) was the rear axle. It combined with my weight and my desire to use it as a trail bike didn't work out. For street and snow riding, hella fun. I don't even know if I'd change the tires. Tubes are a definite though. Weight savings are there, but that's not the point of this bike.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

watts888 said:


> And that's what the dolo/malus/hitch/etc... are good for. you're spare seatpost might not work because of the odd-ball steel seatpost size, but replacment alloy ones are cheap. BB7 brakes were a good upgrade for me, and only needed a few washers as spacers. After cleaning all the bearings and adjusting them, the only real issue I had with the bike (other than the weight) was the rear axle. It combined with my weight and my desire to use it as a trail bike didn't work out. For street and snow riding, hella fun. I don't even know if I'd change the tires. Tubes are a definite though. Weight savings are there, but that's not the point of this bike.


Thanks for the tip on the tires. I'll try these for a few months and see how they are.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Tubes are a definite though. Weight savings are there, but that's not the point of this bike.


You have a link for some good, light and cheap tubes??


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

good, light, cheap? pick 2.

Really, any 26" x 2.4"-2.7" downhill tube will work ok (a lot of people recommend Q-tubes), but they can be a pain to install the tire because of how the tube expands. Based on your weight, you don't want to go too low in pressure or the tire/tube will separate from the rim and bust.

You can also get a true 26" x 4" fat tire tube, and it will still be lighter than the stock tubes. They are usually a bit more expensive and heavier, but they work much easier than the downhill tubes. Still lighter than the stock tubes.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

That is good advice, but I would caution using an undersized tube without the caveat that you will have a very difficult time patching any punctures. Patches tend to be much more stiff than the tube itself. This causes the leak to reappear during inflation as the tube stretches in diameter.

Have a good one.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Agree, If you use a downhill tube that's undersized for the tire, it will weigh less, but if it ever gets a puncture, it will deflate faster and be near impossible to fix trailside (or roadside). Always care a spare full sized tube.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

What's a good replacement stem for the Malus that will fit a 31.6mm bar?


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

I just bought a super cheap one on ebay, paid less than 8 bucks. I don't ride the Dolo hard enough to spend money on upgrades...


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Well my Seat post bent last night on the ride and was stuck in the upright position. I should've ended the ride but I kept going and now I have a broken collarbone. I couldn't keep my weight low enough on the downhill and ended up going over the bars. Learn from me don't ride your bike when there's an issue with it.


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Just get a new KMC 8-speed chain off amazon. The cheap 8-speed amazon chains are pretty damn strong.
> Z72: chamfered inner plates with Bulls-eye rivets for 7-8 speed. $10 (this is the one I use)
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CN6QA2
> 
> ...


That Z72 was an easy chain to install. Thanks! The masterlink took a moment to understand as it kept wanting to separate. I road it and all was well after it locked in.

116 links is just right for a 11t-34t / stock chainring combo.

Have a good one.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Pulled headset apart to check the bearings, make sure they were greased. Top bearing had a ball missing, called customer service and they shipped new bearings/kit out the same day.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

striker64 said:


> Pulled headset apart to check the bearings, make sure they were greased. Top bearing had a ball missing, called customer service and they shipped new bearings/kit out the same day.


Good thing you checked!

Really pack in the grease on the new bearing and in the cup to keep water out:

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/argus-fat-bike-masses-review-assembly-1019867-6.html#post12831101


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

vid1900 said:


> Good thing you checked!
> 
> Really pack in the grease on the new bearing and in the cup to keep water out:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/argus-fat-bike-masses-review-assembly-1019867-6.html#post12831101


Looked like there was water in the top bearing, got caught in a downpour previous day, yes I'm glad I checked.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

We just picked up a bike trailer for the kids, and the Dolo got the call: pumped the tires up to 30 psi and roled out with 100# of love attached, everyone had a blast on the first ride.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

This is what I love about the Dolo: it delivers. If I had a more expensive fatty, I would feel bad about this, but with the Dolo it's all good. Several miles of doubletrack and bike path with the kids, no problems!


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## LyonNightroad (Feb 12, 2015)

Okay this is crazy. My rear axle bent, no surprise. I called pacific cycle and they said NOPE cant buy just the axle. Have to buy the whole wheel for $80. For that price I would buy a better wheel. What the heck! Has anyone found an axle? I spent hours googling and the longest axle I have found is 195mm and it needs to be around 230 or more. I really wanted the hitch axle since I thought I read somewhere that it is better. Anyway, without access to replacement axles I can't recommend anyone ever buy this bike, you will bend it eventually. You probably already have.


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## AZINGER (Mar 13, 2015)

LyonNightroad said:


> Okay this is crazy. My rear axle bent, no surprise. I called pacific cycle and they said NOPE cant buy just the axle. Anyway, without access to replacement axles I can't recommend anyone ever buy this bike, you will bend it eventually. You probably already have.


I have had great success with PacBike customer service. Call them back and plead your case. Don't give up, you'll get your wheel.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Get a 190mm origin 8 rear wheel. There are a few without cut outs and doublewalled rims going for $130 or less. I found a wheel set for $163 when I got my RST renegade for my Huffy excess. The front wheel is thru-axle to fit the fork, and the rear one is quick release. I love it. The only problem is that I downgraded from 100mm rims to 80mm without cut outs, but hey!!, I have a fork and thru-axle at front now.

And yes, Mongoose send me an spare wheel for my Vinson when I called. Free of charge.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I got a rear wheel under warranty. If you have a receipt and you bought it within the last (insert warranty period here), you should be good. Just call back until they send one.

Unfortunately, the rear axle will bend again, so a few options other than buying a new wheel.

1. re-use the bent axle. It's steel, and if you orientate it properly in the frame when you put the wheel back in, with use, it will bend back straight. Of course, in time, it will bend the other way. wash/repeat and eventually the axle can brake. It will work though. People have been riding wallyworld bikes with bent axles for years and years. It doesn't work as well as a good LBS wheel, but it works. The trick is getting the axle lined up how you want it in the frame. I used a bit of red paint on the axle to make sure I was orientating it right. The bend should point down and the axle ends should be pointed up.

2. try to contact someone who sells wheels with 190mm hubs and see what they have for a rear axle. A lot of them use cartridge bearings which wont' work for you, but you might get lucky with a few of them having good threaded axles. Origin8 as mentioned above has them and certain Framed fatbikes use them.
On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel

3. Worst advise ever. Buy a common threaded read of high strength and fine thread pitch. Drill and tap the bike's cone nuts to work with this new axle. It's a pain, especially since the cone nuts are usually a high strength steel, but since bike axles threads have a non-standard thread pitch, this is the only way to use easily available threaded rod. The lock nuts would then be standard nuts available at any hardware store.


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## LyonNightroad (Feb 12, 2015)

watts888 said:


> I got a rear wheel under warranty. If you have a receipt and you bought it within the last (insert warranty period here), you should be good. Just call back until they send one.
> 
> Unfortunately, the rear axle will bend again, so a few options other than buying a new wheel.
> 
> ...


Great minds think alike, I flipped the axle for now.

I have an extra 8 speed cassette and X4 derailleur/trigger so going to a new hub or new wheel feels like a no brainer. I don't like that my wheels wont match if I get a new rear wheel, but its not a big deal, I can at least paint them to match. I can't find any 100mm wide rims but I guess going down to 80mm wont make a big difference. I just like how stiff the sidewalls feel on the stock wheels, feels really secure in high speed turns.

Now here is the big question, assume that strength and durability are my only concerns. I absolutely positively don't care about weight.

Which is my best option?

A. Order a 190mm freehub from china (Quando?) $50 and rebuild my current wheel.

B. On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel $170

C. Alex Blizzerk 80 REAR 190mm Formula Fat Bike Wheel : TheBikesmiths.com $175

D. https://www.amazon.com/AT-PRO801-FB...=1476200874&sr=1-2&keywords=190mm+wheelmaster $145


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I"d vote for a new hub.

IMO, if you can get a freehub for $50 that's 190mm wide and 36 spoke, I'd go for that. Next, I'd look at the origin8 190mm freehub with 32 spoke holes and re-drill the holes on your current rim. If done right, you could drill your rim at the same time (drilling out where the old holes were) and make it look like it was meant to be that way. 
https://www.amazon.com/HUB-OR8-FB1100-32x190-8-10sCAS/dp/B00H8D2CBC

After that, I'd seriously consider a new bike that uses a 170mm rear hub. If you're really dedicated, you could bend the frame to accept a 170mm hub. It's only a 10mm bend in on each side. It's steel after all, and cheap steel at that. Bends easily without reducing strength and Sheldon Brown did a great writeup on how to bend a steel frame and restraighten the drop outs. And 170mm hubs with 36 spoke holes are much easier to find. 
https://www.amazon.com/HUB-OR8-FB1100-36x170-8-10sCAS/dp/B00CBNR4DU
https://www.amazon.com/HUB-OR8-FB2000-36x170-8-10s/dp/B010TSTJZO


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## LyonNightroad (Feb 12, 2015)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/bic..._7&btsid=7c33f666-3794-448c-81c8-674d6ade8df8


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## LyonNightroad (Feb 12, 2015)

Could also steal the axles from this, but pointlessly expensive:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/173...2734332778.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.25.4K5QTh


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

LyonNightroad said:


> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/bic..._7&btsid=7c33f666-3794-448c-81c8-674d6ade8df8


I'd look at this one. The stock hubs are steel, so it's worth it to swap out the front one too. Plus the QR on the fork is a nice upgrade. You will have to contact the seller to get a mix & match. None of the stock offerings listed match the 135F/190R hub dimensions you'll need.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

LyonNightroad said:


> Could also steal the axles from this, but pointlessly expensive:


same type of axle as the stock hub. not worth it. The benefit of the freehub over a freewheel is how the bearings are positioned further towards the dropouts. Less chance of bending, even with the same quality axle.


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

Has anyone else found that most places are out of stock on the YST bearings? I can't find any online.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

search amazon's bottom bracket section for "cups". Comes up with a lot, including this VP cupset. Looks a lot like the YST one. Or the stock one with just a couple garden hose washers works pretty good too.
https://smile.amazon.com/VP-Bottom-...&ie=UTF8&qid=1478199327&sr=1-29&keywords=cups


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

Cool, thanks. I had only seen people reference the YST ones so I was just looking for those. 
Side note, I saw the Malus is on sale $40 cheaper than the Dolo on Amazon. From what I understand, the big reason people don't go with the Malus is the rear rotor mounting to the hub design? Some have mentioned they can't get the rotor to stay tight. Was there anything else? Sorry I'm sure this was covered, but 51 pages is kind of a lot to dig through.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

YST PROFESSIONAL EUROPEAN UNSEALED BEARING CHROME BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET | eBay

YST $10 shipped.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I prefer the fork design and color of the malus. The brakes are a safety issue. They thread on just like the rear hub gears. The problem is, they are threaded on. If those threads have too much force on them, they can strip out. You strip out the rear gears, you're just spinning gears and getting annoyed. You strip out the brakes, you don't have brakes. If you're casually riding around and don't weight 300lbs, probably not a huge issue. If you're going to push the brake's limits, I'd rather have a different set of wheels.


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

That's right, that's what it was. I don't plan on pushing it too hard, but I think I'd still rather have the Dolo in that case. Thanks for the info guys!!


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

drdave81 said:


> but I think I'd still rather have the Dolo in that case. Thanks for the info guys!!


I'd get the Porter rather than the Dolo.

Same price (maybe cheaper after your SYWR points), but better brakes, tires (Fat-B-Nimble), and seat post on the Porter:

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/ir...ite-they-not-same-bike-after-all-1017417.html


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

Doesn't look like the Porter is available anywhere other than a reconditioned version of it through Sears, the nearest one to me stocking it being 700 miles away lol.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

drdave81 said:


> Doesn't look like the Porter is available anywhere other than a reconditioned version of it through Sears, the nearest one to me stocking it being 700 miles away lol.


You are right, it says "temporarily unavailable" on both Sears and Kmart website.


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

Got my dolo last week and after a few tweaks it rides pretty decently. I have new rotors on the way since these are a bit warped. Also, would this be the correct size bolt to switch the front wheel over to a quick release? I would order the skewer as well. I don't have a bike rack, and with the front wheel off, it will fit just fine in the back of my Jeep.

https://www.amazon.com/HUB-AXLE-SET-RR-10x1x135x146QR8sCRMO/dp/B000AO9PCU


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Yes, but... the stock axle is an English thread and this is metric. Almost no difference, but you need to make sure you don't mix and match the axle nuts. Also will need to move over the dust shield. Simple tap off and tap on with a socket and light hammer taps. May need to add a washer or two to space the axle width to 135mm, and may need to redish the rim to center it a tiny bit. Easy tasks.


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

I thought the front axle width was 135mm, from what I read on the first page of this. Overall, easy enough though.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

front axle is spaced for 135mm (or the fork dropouts are supposed to be 135mm, manufacturing tolerances be damned).

It's easy. The same axle I used on my dolo's front axle conversion.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Is there a post explaining exactly what's needed to swap to QR?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but the easiest thing is just to watch some youtube videos of repacking a front bike hub. When it's time to put it all together, just swap out the axle and nuts. When you take the stock axle out, keep track of the order so you can adjust the width of the new axle nuts with washers. I also like to "lock" the brake side cone nut and lockdown nut together, and use the non-drive side to adjust the bearing preload. Trying to adjust the cone nut around the brake rotor can be a pain.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

*Can I join?*

Just picked this baby off of Craigslist for $100. Have been wanting a fat bike for a long time. While, I don't think it will take me away from my new Trek Fuel plus bike, I look forward to learning how to wrench on it and using it for family rides/sandy wash rides.









I have to admit, this thread is a little intimidating to read. I'm hoping to try and go tubeless, although my early searches on the rims don't look good. Tubeless in the desert is pretty mandatory, so hopefully I can figure this out sooner than later. In addition, I have a 2004 giant that I'll pull some parts from, like shifters, gears, hydro brakes.

Looking forward to tinkering and for $100, I just couldn't refuse.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The dolo is a fun bike, but there are limitations. Mostly with spending more money to take the dolo great than it would cost to get an awesome bike to begin with. Stick with 8-speed shifters and derailure, and you're good. Hydro brakes will swap over fine, although you might need to use some washer shims to get the spacing right. The brake mounts aren't always perfectly aligned. 

For tubeless, it's rough with the stock rims. They have junk for a shelf. It can be done though. Read up on "fatty strippers" concerning the foam backer rods and use a split tube method. There are 24" tires from specialized with a threaded schreader valve. Makes setup a lot easier. Once you go tubeless, the low tire pressures don't always work well because it's too easy for the bead to unseat. The reason split tube works. If you're riding at too low of a pressure, the bead doesn't always want to re-seat.


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## MikeTowpathTraveler (Aug 12, 2015)

I own a Fatboy but let me tell you, this is one of my favorite threads, starting from Day 1 when Canoe brought the fans of this bike together with some great, great info to maintain and upgrade. I really like what the folks here are doing to their Dolo's and reading of the fun they are getting in riding them. This is what the core of this sport is, found right here!


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Totally agree Mike. This thread is part of the reason I started looking at Fat Bikes. I look at this bike as something to putter around with and learn to wrench on. Plus, because it's so heavy, I don't have to worry about the family keeping up with me on rides. I'll be getting my workout regardless!


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## kitchin (Jun 8, 2016)

FaethoR said:


> hey kitchen I'd wager that a 100 mm. BB would not work shaft wise since the stock dolo rims are 100 mm.
> 
> i'd say that the two otions i've seen in my research and talking to my local bike shop is
> 
> ...


Yeah ive already done that but the square taper aspect just kills me i feel like im riding a kids bike even with an aftermarket square taper crank and chainring. But this was my solution...

You have to undertand that Isis crank systems "flare" at the interface joint to where the pedals actually sit due to having to clear old dh set ups. (approx 1 1/4 per crank arm)

Now that being said even with a 100mm isis bottom bracket plus the extra clearence at the crank itself doesnt give enough to clear the frame.

External bearing cranks have the bearing on the outside of the frame and the extra space the bearing occupies allows the crank designs to not "flair out" as much in order to clear the same widths as isis . Typically the bearings add approx 12mm ish (not an exact measurement) and thefore an external bearing crank with its 100mm bb also dont clear the dolo's chainstays because they are so dang wide.

With all thay being said we really limit ourselves to like 2 crank options that are both insanely expensive new.

The link i provided is an ebike company that makes an isis bb with external bearings. giving it approx 24mm extra on an isis crank which made me kind of freak out because i finally found what i wanted but sadly it still wasnt enough clearence ...

I was very dissappointed to say the least... Although i didnt waste my money on it i got all the measurements before i reached for the wallet.

So dissapointing.


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## kitchin (Jun 8, 2016)

momikey said:


> Nice bike, can we get some specs on your wheels and where they came from? I like em


The wheels came from specialized they are their new fatboy wheels although not cheap i think they are around 700-800$ a set ( they come with hubs spaced for the dolo 150 qr front and 190qr in the rear )

but i didnt pay that much for them as im a specialized dealer at the shop i manage so i got a sweet discount i think you can also buy just the rims from dt swiss but they arnt cheap either im sure.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

I have a question for the modders out there. I have a 2004 Giant XTC donor bike that I'd like to use some parts from, mainly the Hayes 9 Hydro brakes and the Altus 9spd index Shifter/derailleur. Has anyone tried to fit a 9spd freewheel? Like this one?

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Sunrace-9-Speed-Freewheel-13-32/dp/B0025UJVD0

Would it fit?


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

Just finished installing a set of Avid BB-7's from another bike on my Malus. The braking difference between stock and the Avid's is night and day. My upgrades/changes are as follows

Swapped from other bikes/parts bin 
Avenir Mountain Seat
BB-7's
Generic alloy stem
Lock-on grips

New part upgrades:
Shimano Mega Range 7 speed freewheel
Nashbar Black Ops Handlebars
KMC Chain
Shimano Altus Rear Derailleur
Shimano Acera rapid fire shifter
Tektro Brake Levers
Cyclists Choice alloy seatpost

Next purchase for sure is new pedals, these seem very weak. Aside from that I don't anticipate spending much more on this bike. Took it out in some snow last weekend and it was a blast.


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Repoman14 said:


> View attachment 1109285
> 
> 
> Just finished installing a set of Avid BB-7's from another bike on my Malus. The braking difference between stock and the Avid's is night and day. My upgrades/changes are as follows
> ...


Nice.

You going to keep the stock crank?

That was the first thing I replaced but I needed way low gearing for the trails I was climbing.

Just about to get the bike out for another winter of riding...


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

What did you replace yours with?


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Repoman14 said:


> What did you replace yours with?


I've put on a few things.

First I actually cut the stock sprocket off the stock crank and welded on a 17-tooth chainring (a chainring out of a unused cassette, yes took it apart)..it was a total hack to see if I could do it (that 17t chainring is like 2.5" in diameter, it's tiny)...but gearing-wise it worked perfect for steep climbs, since this was before I got the lower mega-range cassette.

However, then I wanted something with a bit more range (even if no shifter, I can manually move the chain easy enough).

Then I put on a triple chainring:
Lasco Aluminum MTB Crank Arms 175mm Square Taper 24-34-42 w/ Guard | eBay

I wore that one out (my chain had stretched and it trashed my cassette and crank chainring), then I replaced it with a Shimano triple crank and new cassette, same idea as the Lasco but I think it put the chain-line in the smallest sprocket a bit too close to the tire, it's what I finished last season on but may buy another Lasco to put on for this winter. It's easy to swap with a taper-square crank tool, and the cranks are so cheap it's easy compared to buying real bike parts for other bikes.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

I can't really tell from the pics on Ebay, can you remove the chainrings?


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

I don't think so, and actually I guess the first crankset I went with was this:
SUGINO Impel 154X 8-Speed Crankset 24/34/42 // 175mm // JIS Square Tapered | eBay

Then went with this: (This is what is currently on my bike and I think the chainline spacing puts the chain too close to the tire) 
Shimano FC-M131 Triple Crankset 8 Speed 170mm Square 42 x 34 x 24 Silver Cranks | eBay

I don't think any of these cheap cranksets have removable chainrings. The Sugino looks like it does (has a hex screw look) but the back of it is just a rivet, so nothing to take off.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

The Vueltas that folks were mentioning earlier in the thread hav removable rings and work fine for ~$30.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

carbuncle said:


> The Vueltas that folks were mentioning earlier in the thread hav removable rings and work fine for ~$30.


Thanks, just ordered them and they arrive today!

Took it out in our Wisconsin snowstorm yesterday. Was slipping around a bit but once I lowered the pressure in the tires it was plowing right through.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Took the Dolo out for a night ride after re-greasing the hubs/BB. Super smooth. One problem that we noticed while re-greasing the hubs is that the front axle is bent. Someone mentioned in another thread about getting a 135mm Rear QR...is that 9mm or 10mm? Is that an axle specific or any old QR for those that have done it?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Pack66 said:


> Someone mentioned in another thread about getting a 135mm Rear QR...is that 9mm or 10mm? Is that an axle specific or any old QR for those that have done it?


I used a 135mm QR axle linked below, but you'll need to buy a new skewer. You'll need new bearings (always use new bearings) and you'll need to tap the dust shields off the old cone nuts and move them to the new cone nuts. You can do the same thing with a full bolt on type axle. You're on your own to get the link, but should be the same process.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO9PCU

FYI, the stock dolo axle is a 3/8" 26 TPI bike axle. Most hardware store bolts/nuts are the standard english 3/8" 24 TPI fine thread, so no mixing and matching between what you have and what the hardware store has. Also, most replacment axles will be 10mm axles. Almost same size as the 3/8" axle, so they work the same for this swap. Just know, the nuts/bolts off your current axle won't work on the axle I linked to.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Thanks for the reply Watts888. Would a regular rear QR work with the axle you linked? I may have one laying around.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Pack66 said:


> Would a regular rear QR work with the axle you linked?


yes. Just make sure it's a 135mm mountain bike one, and not a 130mm road rear skewer.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

*Bought some stuff for the pig.*

To be continued...


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## oche16 (Dec 19, 2016)

*Spokes + nips?*

I'm in the process of restoring a neglected, inoperable Dolomite. All cables, shifter, dry rotted bottom bracket, rusted solid seat-post.
It sat out in the weather for at least a year. But rides like new again!

Now, to replace the rusted spokes, hopefully with stainless... Does anyone know the proper size/length please? Thanks, Steve


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Pack66 said:


> To be continued...


Split tube method and pray. And never, ever drop the PSI below 8 or the bead will unseat. It might re-seat with pressure, but it might require you to take everything back apart completely. Not worth the risk.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

oche16 said:


> But rides like new again!
> 
> Now, to replace the rusted spokes, hopefully with stainless... Does anyone know the proper size/length please? Thanks, Steve


Kudos for getting it going again. For spokes, I wouldn't re-use what it's got, I'd build it up as new wheelset with a better rear hub, which would require you to calculate the spoke lengths. DT-Swiss website has a spoke calculator that works pretty well. Front hub would be OK, so I'd just measure them. I found a carpenters square works great for measuring spokes. Just hook the j-bend over the square and take a measurment.

For a hub, there is a 170mm wide origin8 freehub with 36 spoke flanges and a bolt down axle on amazon for about $35 (linked to above somewhere). Minor bend to the frame (190mm axle width to 170mm axle width) and re-align the rear drop outs, and it's good. Or get the $150 wheelset off bikeisland that uses 50mm rims.


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## oche16 (Dec 19, 2016)

Except for the spokes. I don't want to sink any more $$ into it. Retired and I ride slowly on flat roads/beach anyway. Thanks for all the info Watts.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

In that case, I'd just wipe them down with vinegar or a phosphoric acid rust etcher if they're really nasty (auto parts store), wipe it off, tape and spray paint the spokes (or just oil the spokes). Good spokes cost about $0.80 each (maybe down to 50 cents on sale), and two wheels at 36 spokes each, hard to justify unless they are breaking.

If you really want them, best method is actually taking one out and measuring it. Remember, you'll probably have 3 or four sets of spoke lengths, so buying one box of spokes usually doesn't work.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

watts888 said:


> Split tube method and pray. And never, ever drop the PSI below 8 or the bead will unseat. It might re-seat with pressure, but it might require you to take everything back apart completely. Not worth the risk.


Well. The sill foam and moving wrap method did not work. Did two wraps of the sill foam to get it level with the bead seat and it did seat, but I couldn't get the entire bead to seal...and then the seam in the rim started leaking, meaning that the wrap had a leak. I may try again...or was thinking about doing the split tube and tape method.

Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed as I've realized it's a pain in the butt to get the rear wheel on and off. I'm having concerns about riding this in the wild...and thanks for the tip Watts...


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

First of all a big thanks to Canoe for starting this thread. It's awesome for us po' boys. Now down to business. I have read thru a lot of this insanely long thread(because something this good deserves to be around this long). I am buying the Malus. I ride mostly cross country type riding on hard packed and soft sand fire roads. Contrary to popular belief, these pines i live in have some really awesome hilly sections. I am 6 ft. 215 and ride quite a bit(that's why I know where them hills are).There are no huge downhill type rides but some very fast quick 50-60 ft hits with some hard corners at the bottom. And I am no elite rider, and know my limits, but i do like to get all of them hills. So I am sure you know my big question. Should I upgrade them stock discs or just make sure they are in perfect working order and wear them out? 
Just a little more info:
I ride 2-3 times a week most of the time. I ride 10-15 miles per ride and probably hit 10-15 or so hills of that caliber along the way. Let me know if you need more info.
Thanks


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Brake calipers are low end, but they work well when setup. Avid bb5 had an almost identical setup, and they're are good install sheets on those online. Replace when you get a chance or find better for cheap. I'd definitely replace the levers now. Cheap plastic that flexes. 

One downside of the malus is the thread on brake rotor hub. Cheaper design that has a higher risk of braking (at least under heavy load)


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Watts
Yeah thats what i was thinking. Sometimes its a hilly section that can get pretty fast but not a lot of rowdy going on. So stock should be fine til they're worn. and as far as levers, they will be switched out immediately along with a quick fire trigger. After that I will put all of the other components through the ringer and replace as needed. I am riding a Trek 820 right now that i wish i never bought. I love it on the trails. I think its way under rated. Mostly by elite riders tho, which i understand. I think its great on hard packed but a lot of times getting from one trail to the next requires some travel on the sandy fire roads. Then its hike a bike time on a skinny.. Cant wait for my fatty. And as far as the rotor hub. I will ride it into the ground and deal with it as it comes. Been down that road before. Thanks again


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> I am riding a Trek 820 right now that i wish i never bought. I love it on the trails. I think its way under rated.


I had one of those, and it really was a great riding bike. Bulletproof steel frame. I did some upgrades to a rigid steel fork off Nashbar, an old 7-speed freehub wheelset (free from a co-worker), and wider tires (2.2" 500gram tires rocked), and it was a great trail bike. Rigid and heavy, but so much fun on the smoother trails, gravel, and even road. It was always too small for me, so I ended up building a steel 29er kona unit. passed the 820 on to a co-worker, and he's loving it now.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Pathfinder, have you looked at the Vinson or it's replacement the Argus? Those are a bit more, but a much better bike unless you want to wrench upgrade. It's more cost efficient to buy one of those, but most of us on this thread like to putter, or are like me, cheap.  Either way, welcome to the fat club. Whatever you do, I would recommend whatever bike you buy that you upgrade the tires to a 120tpi tire (you can get a cheap set of Fat B Nimbles for around $70).

On another note, I'm still considering going tubeless on mine. I bought q-tubes to tide me over til I figure a way. Using the sill foam/packing wrap method, I was able to get them mounted and pumped up, but I couldn't get the bead to completely seal to the edge of the rim. I may try the split tube method. Also noticed that my stans was a bit lumpy...probably old. Back to the drawing board.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

It's more cost efficient to buy one of those, but most of us on this thread like to putter, or are like me, cheap

Pack66,
The two reasons why I am here. I am cheap. And I want to learn to build bikes. I am very handy around my house. Electric/Cement work/Plumbing/Building/etc. I learned all of skills on my own and I am always looking to learn more. So why not buy a cheap bike(which is easier to justify to the boss)Hahaha.. Then I can nickel and dime it so it doesn't hit my wallet so hard. I have the Trek, as I mentioned to Watts, and have done a little work on it. Now I intend to keep both and learn as I go. That is why I love this thread and youtube. hahaha. The Trek will mainly be for my wife who tries to stay as far away from wood as possible. But she took it on a bike run with some friends and loved it. As soon as I mentioned buying this bike she said "so the Trek is mine"? Funny as hell. But I cant wait to get it and start riding and upgrading. This thread is great for that. I couldn't be happier that I found it.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Sorry. That first sentence was supposed to be reply quote from Pack.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

I have poked around the idea of buying more expensive models. I have even spoken to members of this site and others about what to buy. But in the end the bills must be paid and small hits to the wallet are easier to muster than a large lump sum. I am sure a lot of those bikes are built way better than these bikes. But the more I read on this thread, the more I wanted to get into bike building. I am 49 and retiring in two years. I would love to make this into a hobby and just build from the bottom up. Its funny because every time I walk into my garage now, I look at the bikes in our garage in a totally different way than I used to. I will keep posting and let you all know how my new adventure is going. Thanks for all of your posts too. I am ordering my Malus in January. That is the deal my wife and I came to after much coaxing. Until she realized the Trek will be hers...


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

One huge question I think I neglected to ask. To all current owners/riders of the Malus. I ride up some sandy hills in the pines. I don't mind grinding them out in a low gear. I make it up a lot(not all) of them on my skinny Bontragers. Is the low gear on that 7 speed Malus going to get me up those hills?


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Gigantic said:


> If my lbs started selling this kind of garbage, I'd find another lbs. At best, these bikes are poorly made to the point of being dangerous. I appreciate that they might serve as an entry point into fat biking, but they're so shabbily rendered, that in many, if not most cases, these bikes will be ridden a few times, then dismissed and abandoned as a pointless fad. As such they are more a disservice to our sport than a boon.


I have been looking for this quote for a while. I have been jumping around this thread for a while and remembered this quote. Especially the part about being ridden a few times and a pointless fad. They are great entry level bikes and with minor upgrades many people are riding them for years now. And more models available. The "fad" is growing exponentially. And they are being ridden for a few years(not a few times). Us poor folks who want to do what the richer riders are doing are now able to do so. Maybe we just don't want to do it to the extent that other riders are doing it. So these bikes are a great deal for the money and we don't have to spend a lot of money on something we are not sure if we will love doing. It opens a new door in many more lives. Providing more customers and more revenue for a great activity. A lot of people ride the wheels off of these bikes and become too good for them and then decide to spend more money in the market of mountain biking. So, in my opinion, these bikes are great for cruisers/beginner/intermediate riders, and they are a good thing for the industry.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Repoman14 said:


> View attachment 1109285
> 
> 
> Just finished installing a set of Avid BB-7's from another bike on my Malus. The braking difference between stock and the Avid's is night and day. My upgrades/changes are as follows
> ...


Bike looks awesome dude. All quality upgrades for minimal cash. Cant wait to get mine next month. Just wondering what was the most expensive upgrade. From what I can see they were all under 30 bucks each right?


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## MurkySwamp (Dec 27, 2016)

Just grabbed a Dolomite for the wife for some casual riding. I did want to do a couple cheap upgrades from the start, including getting the YST Sealed BSA Cupset. But I can't seem to locate them anywhere and fear they may be no longer available. Does anyone know of a source for these or if there is now an alternate that is recommended? Thanks in advance.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The stock crankset isn't bad, after you take it all apart and grease it (almost guaranteed to have metal shavings inside it). The only real benefit is the seal, which can be ghetto copied by throwing a couple garden hose washers and cable tie (zip strip) on the axle to hold them tight. 

Upgrades should focus on what will make riding more fun, and safe. gravel/road/asphalt riding, I'd stick with the stock tires at higher pressure and assume that it will be a tank. I would get better brake levers, just for safety.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

New fenders for Christmas, and fresh snow forecasted for Thursday!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

pathfinder67 said:


> I have been looking for this quote for a while. I have been jumping around this thread for a while and remembered this quote. Especially the part about being ridden a few times and a pointless fad. They are great entry level bikes and with minor upgrades many people are riding them for years now. And more models available. The "fad" is growing exponentially. And they are being ridden for a few years(not a few times). Us poor folks who want to do what the richer riders are doing are now able to do so. Maybe we just don't want to do it to the extent that other riders are doing it. So these bikes are a great deal for the money and we don't have to spend a lot of money on something we are not sure if we will love doing. It opens a new door in many more lives. Providing more customers and more revenue for a great activity. A lot of people ride the wheels off of these bikes and become too good for them and then decide to spend more money in the market of mountain biking. So, in my opinion, these bikes are great for cruisers/beginner/intermediate riders, and they are a good thing for the industry.


I've had mine for exactly two years, got it for Christmas 2014. It has been a super fun all-around utility ride, performing well from snow to bike path with a trailer attached. I love it, not only because it's a cool bike but also because it was a great value and the low barrier to entry from the price allowed me to get a taste for fatbiking. Ignore the haters, the Dolo has been a trailbreaker and given endless hours of fun for riders.


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## MurkySwamp (Dec 27, 2016)

Thanks Watts. After reading thru this forum and reading that replacing the bearings is pretty much a must, I'm worried I've made an error with this bike. I'll definitely grease up the bearings that it has and I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed that these YST bearings show up again. Thanks again.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

https://www.google.com/search?q=sea...&ved=0ahUKEwjAvLm8nZXRAhUI0YMKHdXRCdAQgTYIogQ

Check it out, looks like the same BB, but with a stupid plastic sleeve to throw away befor you install. The one thing to remember with cheap Chinese parts is, the brand name may change but if the demand is there the part will still be sold somewhere.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

carbuncle said:


> I've had mine for exactly two years, got it for Christmas 2014. It has been a super fun all-around utility ride, performing well from snow to bike path with a trailer attached. I love it, not only because it's a cool bike but also because it was a great value and the low barrier to entry from the price allowed me to get a taste for fatbiking. Ignore the haters, the Dolo has been a trailbreaker and given endless hours of fun for riders.


Agreed carbuncle. Still up in the air. Dolo or Malus. Like the weight of Malus but the Dolo is such a proven product. Thats pricesless


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

carbuncle said:


> New fenders for Christmas, and fresh snow forecasted for Thursday!


NICE!!! Looks tough as hell!!!


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## hilltopcrew (Jun 30, 2010)

Anyone have a pair or two of the original dolomite tires for sale. I want the super heavy 2800 gram ones.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

pathfinder67 said:


> NICE!!! Looks tough as hell!!!


Thank you!


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Decided on the Malus. Will be ordering in 3 weeks after recovering from the Christmas spending spree. So somewhere near end of Jan/beginning of Feb I will be an official Fatboy. Cant wait!!!!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Cool, post it up when you get it!


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

I will def post it up. Will find some solid vids on this fancy thinking box to help with adjusting gears/breaks. how to grease headset/bottom bracket/axles. and def going to swap out for rapid fires gear shifter.


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## oche16 (Dec 19, 2016)

*Dolo slow restoration*

I appreciate this valuable thread and it's knowledgeable members. Learning so much about bikes in general too!

While replacing the bone dry, stock BB bearings. I was unable to remove the drive-side cup. It sits wee lopsided and I suspect it is crossthreaded. Was able to clean out using giant, makeshift qtips, proctologist style. And luckily, it pedals fine now.

Next adventure, Dolo front and rear wheel bearings (stock), as well as freewheel service. 
As my only means of conveyance, I don't want to break it down then order parts. I get parts online, as I no longer drive.... Are both wheel bearings 1/4" please? Also need to buy a freewheel tool.

Happy New Year gang!

Just a retiree and his African grey parrot, cruising the beach and enjoying learning about bikes

Ghetto rehab progress,
All cables, shifter and levers, rebuilt BB & headset bearings, new derailleur, high-rise stem and wooden perch


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

OK. Dumb question. I am sure the instructions are somewhere, but I hoping someone here can help. When I get the below message, how can I reconfigure photos to upload here?

IMG_0371.JPG (exceeds filesize limit)


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Not sure on the photos, maybe try and use the imgur website to post photos? Or use photo editing software to reduce the size. 

One thing to mention for you Pathfinder (82nd ABN?), changing tires/tubes on the Dolo can be a ***** because it does not have a quick release on either hub. When you do get one, plan to ride with a socket in case you need to get the tire off.

Seeing as I probably won't get this to setup tubeless, I may have to sell and step up to the Argus. As tubeless is a must in the desert, I would have to buy a new wheelset for tubeless and QRs.


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## MCHB (Jun 23, 2014)

pathfinder67 said:


> OK. Dumb question. I am sure the instructions are somewhere, but I hoping someone here can help. When I get the below message, how can I reconfigure photos to upload here?
> 
> IMG_0371.JPG (exceeds filesize limit)


Resize them in paint or some other photo editor (I use GIMP 2 because it's basically a free equivalent to photochop!) I normally resize mine to 1024x768 or so and save it as a jpg before attempting to upload.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

I was an MP in the army with a lot of background in navigation. But i got the name from my love of unmarked trails and maps. I have been lost in these south Jersey Pines numerous times. But always find my way out. And i am smiling the whole time. When I bring that fatboy out there I will be able to venture even deeper into those 1000 square miles of forest. And I always go prepared. Including a socket, extra tubes, compass, food water and various other supplies. the whole nine. Most local trails closer to home that I ride for fun are loops and close to civilization. I am never more than 2 miles from my car. and I have hiked a bike with a flat much further than that before I learned my lesson. Good luck with your Argus. Too steep for me. Hope you enjoy it tho. Post up when you get it


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

MCHB,
Thanks I will try that


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

hilltopcrew said:


> Anyone have a pair or two of the original dolomite tires for sale. I want the super heavy 2800 gram ones.


Why? I don't have a pair, but if you just want the weight, throw in a bunch of green slime and some of the puncture resistance strips. that should get the weight up easily.


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## hilltopcrew (Jun 30, 2010)

watts888 said:


> Why? I don't have a pair, but if you just want the weight, throw in a bunch of green slime and some of the puncture resistance strips. that should get the weight up easily.


Why? 
Because I do my fitness/training rides with a super heavy wheel set. 
2800 grams is twice the weight of my current training wheel tires (29x2.5).

I see another way to mix up my rides, and get a better workout when riding with less fit friends.

Also, NO. Slime and PRS will not get me anywhere near 2800 grams (considering I'd have to run tubeless). You didn't do the math.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

I just replaced my stock tires with fat b nimbles. I don't know if they are the new or old version, but they only have a few rides on them. I was going to put them back on when I sold my Dolo, but I could be convinced otherwise.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

hilltopcrew said:


> Why?
> Because I do my fitness/training rides with a super heavy wheel set.
> 2800 grams is twice the weight of my current training wheel tires (29x2.5).
> 
> ...


WOW, did I just get *****ed out for trying to help? What is the internet coming too? A strong elitist cyclist *****ing about NOT having a heavy wheelset. The world is doomed.

Sorry, I didn't do the math to determine exactly what magic combination of sealant and rim strips are needed to make up the exact weight difference between whatever it is you currently have (because you didn't say, 2nd gen dolo? your 29er?) and a dolo tire (which brings up the point, how do you plan on putting a dolo tire on your 29er rim? or are you simply pointing out that you have a 29er too?).

You can get a lot of weight easily by adding green slime to a tube (special note: adding green slime for tubes inside the tube, not as a tubeless setup) and additional rim strips or flat strips. Add 16 ounces of green slime sealant to each tube, (about 500 grams added per tire), add a set of rim-protector strips to each tire (plus gorilla tape to keep them from moving and protecting the tube from cuts, maybe 200 grams per tire), then additional rim strips and gorilla tape at the rim to simply add weight (easily get an additional 400 grams). Hell, you could just wrap duct tape around the rim over and over and over until you get the weight you want.

https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-10004-Tube-Sealant-oz/dp/B000ENSRS0


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## hilltopcrew (Jun 30, 2010)

watts888 said:


> WOW, did I just get *****ed out for trying to help? What is the internet coming too? A strong elitist cyclist *****ing about NOT having a heavy wheelset. The world is doomed.
> 
> Sorry, I didn't do the math to determine exactly what magic combination of sealant and rim strips are needed to make up the exact weight difference between whatever it is you currently have (because you didn't say, 2nd gen dolo? your 29er?) and a dolo tire (which brings up the point, how do you plan on putting a dolo tire on your 29er rim? or are you simply pointing out that you have a 29er too?).
> 
> ...


Same team bro. I meant no harm. 
I appreciate your help. No sarcasm.

To explain, I have many bikes. When riding "socially" or on a training/ workout ride, I like using a heavy wheel set. I will build up a fat bike soon, and it is almost always going to be a beach cruiser or snow bike, however the idea of using it as my fitness bike interests me. So I was looking at a cheap fat bikes to get it going, I'm a little tall for the dolomite or Vinson frames, however after reading some of this crazy long thread, someone mentioned a 5 lb tire. A single tire that weighs more than my entire Stache 29+ F/R wheel set including both chupacabra tires. Seriously.
I will see how much slime I can get into a heavy fat bike tube, thanks for the idea.

The math. It would take an incredible (more than a half gallon or about two liters) amount of slime to make up the difference between the dolo tire and a " normal"fat bike tire. That's in each wheel. That is not practical, compared to a simple tire......... I should be able to get my fat bike wheelset above 22 pounds with almost no slime.

Yes I am that "elite cyclist" complaining about my wheel set not being heavy enough. I feel safe outside of my weight weenie "closet" here amongst 49 lb dolo's ?.

Check out (my profile saved pics) my 17lb xl Carbon stache btw.

So now reading a thread about a $200 fat bike gave me an idea of how to get a stupid heavy wheel set into reality.

That is why I browse the forums.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

hilltopcrew said:


> The math. It would take an incredible (more than a half gallon or about two liters) amount of slime to make up the difference between the dolo tire and a " normal"fat bike tire.
> 
> So now reading a thread about a $200 fat bike gave me an idea of how to get a stupid heavy wheel set into reality.


The new dolomite tire still isn't a "normal" fatbike tire. Still heavy, just not as boat anchor heavy as the original. It plus green slime in the tube should be close to the original. If the goal truly is a stupid heavy wheelset, how about lead? Get a normal (but slightly heavy) wheelset with a deep channel, and wrap lead tubing around the rim a couple times. Use some solder or epoxy to hold it down (but still removable if need be) and use a tape rim strip. It'll be a pain to get the tire on without a deep v-channel, but still possible. Add some super cheap heavy tires, and you should be close. It will let you use one of your current bikes, and what will probably be a readily available wheelset with little to no money sunk. If a fatbike is a guarantee, could snake the lead strips in and out of the rim holes. Conversation piece (WTF is up with those wheels), and less likely to work their way out.

https://www.amazon.com/Bullet-Weights-1-Pound-Fishing-4-Inch/dp/B003OCAFEC


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## hilltopcrew (Jun 30, 2010)

watts888 said:


> The new dolomite tire still isn't a "normal" fatbike tire. Still heavy, just not as boat anchor heavy as the original. It plus green slime in the tube should be close to the original. If the goal truly is a stupid heavy wheelset, how about lead? Get a normal (but slightly heavy) wheelset with a deep channel, and wrap lead tubing around the rim a couple times. Use some solder or epoxy to hold it down (but still removable if need be) and use a tape rim strip. It'll be a pain to get the tire on without a deep v-channel, but still possible. Add some super cheap heavy tires, and you should be close. It will let you use one of your current bikes, and what will probably be a readily available wheelset with little to no money sunk. If a fatbike is a guarantee, could snake the lead strips in and out of the rim holes. Conversation piece (WTF is up with those wheels), and less likely to work their way out.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bullet-Weights-1-Pound-Fishing-4-Inch/dp/B003OCAFEC


Again, no sarcasm..... That lead wire idea could actually work. Regardless if I tucked it in the center under gorilla tape or weaved it out of the fatrim holes. 
On another note, you would be surprised how much fun other people have ( riding buddies almost as fast as you but not quite) when they punish you on the heavy wheel set. I don't want to soil this thread anymore than I already have. I'll start a new thread when I get the parts...ttyl


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

Here is my Dolo build. Drilled wheels with a tire and tube change, Lighter bars and stem, alumium fork, 9speed freewheel with all Sram twist grip shifters and rear derailleurs, Shimano SLX 2x up front. Not sure what the crank is off of found it on craigslist for sale fits like a glove though, Changed to front axel to use a quick release,and Hydro brakes. Well under 40lbs now. Now this is a fun bike. All parts I picked up really cheap I have less then $400 in to this bike all togeather.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Sweet ride for under 400. Great job Anthem. How long have you had it and what was the original weight? I am buying the Malus and plan to build my own bike as well. Great job! Enjoy it


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

It was a Dolomite weighting in around 50lbs new. I have been working on it for about 2 year. Just buying parts when I found good deals like the tires I picked both them up for 30 bucks at a swap meet.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Nice job. That is my plan too. Nickel and dime it and enjoy the ride the whole way. I will be ordering mine a week from Sunday. Enjoying my Trek 820 in the mean time. But can't wait for my Fatty. My Trek handles great on the trails and hills. But there are so many times on each ride I wish I had a Fatboy. A lot of sand by me connected to many great MTB trails..


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## ldfry001 (Jan 4, 2017)

So I have read most of this thread and it is long but has a lot of good upgrades and info. My dad and i just bought 2 Mongoose Malus fat bikes just to mess around with, nothing too serious just some possible snow riding and light trail riding.

I want to do a couple upgrades but i wanted to try to get a couple questions answered first.

first i want to do the megarange freewheel which i know i can put on. my question is can i put a sram x4 rear derailleur and x3 trigger shifter on this bike with the shimano freewheel? i prefer sram components to shimano.

Secondly will the same yst cups and bearings that fit on the Dolo fit on my Malus?

I also found some shimano prebleed hydraulic brakes on amazon for cheap that are 750mm front and 1400mm rear so i was wondering if these would be long enough or too long for the Malus?

Looking forward to doing some riding on these but would like to do some upgrades first.
thanks


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

My opinions:



ldfry001 said:


> first i want to do the megarange freewheel which i know i can put on. my question is can i put a sram x4 rear derailleur and x3 trigger shifter on this bike with the shimano freewheel? i prefer sram components to shimano.


Shimano upgrade will work fine, as long as it's for 7 or 8-speed bikes. I'd recommend the x4 shifter over the x3, or if you can find an 8-speed version, go x5 for both shifter and derailure. Megarange is OK, but I'd rather have the 13-32 8-speed freewheel. Unless you're tackling hills, the 32T in back is plenty good, and has a much smooth gear jump to get to the last gear. That last mega-range gear jump is huge.
https://smile.amazon.com/SunRace-8-speed-13-32-Freewheel-Chrome/dp/B001GSQL6W



ldfry001 said:


> Secondly will the same yst cups and bearings that fit on the Dolo fit on my Malus?


yes. You can use garden hose washers, but the YST cups are good too. Most importantly, get this taken apart as soon as possible to clean, regrease, and adjust. I've never seen so many metal shavings on a new bike as I did with my dolo.



ldfry001 said:


> I also found some shimano prebleed hydraulic brakes on amazon for cheap that are 750mm front and 1400mm rear so i was wondering if these would be long enough or too long for the Malus?


Not sure about the hydro hose length. Everybody has different opinions online. Best is to measure how long your cables are by removing them from the lever and frame stops. Should be easy to measure a straight cable length that way. If it's too long, easy to shorten without bleeding. Lots of youtube videos about it. If it's too short, buy some new hose and learn to bleed brakes. If it's just casual riding, the stock brake calipers weren't bad. They weren't great, but when adjusted properly and beded in, I could lock them up under my 250lbs. I did use different brake levers though. the stock levers are junky plastic. Avid levers are cheap and work great.

Something to keep in mind. The malus uses thread on brake rotors. Fine for light duty use, but if you put on 200mm rotors and hydro brakes under a 250lb rider bombing down a hill, there is increased risk of ripping the rotor base off the hub. Not too likely, but it has happened to some users on here.


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## ldfry001 (Jan 4, 2017)

Thanks for the reply and the info. Ill definitely look for the 8 speed freewheel and x4 or x5 shifter and derailleur. If i go this route can i get a 2x set of cranks to put on for any big hills? if so any recommendations what kind of cranks to get? 

I may just leave the stock brakes for now if they'll wear in. I haven't ridden it around much but they didn't seem to stop very well even after i got them all adjusted.

One of the first things I did was take it all apart and clean out the old grease and metal shavings and regrease and tighten everything properly. The front wheel bearing were squeezed so tight it would barely move and he head bearings weren't much better.


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

I went 9 speed on mine. Got every thing off ebay for under a $75 and I am running SRAM XO shifters with SRAM X9 derailleurs. I am very happy with this set up.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

watts888 said:


> My opinions:
> Shimano upgrade will work fine, as long as it's for 7 or 8-speed bikes. I'd recommend the x4 shifter over the x3, or if you can find an 8-speed version, go x5 for both shifter and derailure. Megarange is OK, but I'd rather have the 13-32 8-speed freewheel. Unless you're tackling hills, the 32T in back is plenty good, and has a much smooth gear jump to get to the last gear. That last mega-range gear jump is huge.


I purchased the megarange and while that large cog is nice on big hills, I do agree with this, that jump is pretty big whenever I ride I feel like the gear missing before the mega range is the one I would prefer to be riding with.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

ldfry001 said:


> Thanks for the reply and the info. Ill definitely look for the 8 speed freewheel and x4 or x5 shifter and derailleur. If i go this route can i get a 2x set of cranks to put on for any big hills? if so any recommendations what kind of cranks to get?
> 
> I may just leave the stock brakes for now if they'll wear in. I haven't ridden it around much but they didn't seem to stop very well even after i got them all adjusted.
> 
> One of the first things I did was take it all apart and clean out the old grease and metal shavings and regrease and tighten everything properly. The front wheel bearing were squeezed so tight it would barely move and he head bearings weren't much better.


After reading some comments on here I purchased the Vuelta 3x crank from Amazon. I don't plan on adding a front derailleur, just move chain by hand as needed. Its got removable chainrings, which is rare at that price point (under 30 bucks). My original plan was to put on an older Race Face 32t chainring that I have on there and use it as a 1x setup. Ended up deciding to just keep the crankset as is.

https://www.amazon.com/Vuelta-CR9111-P-MTB-Comp-Crankset/dp/B0081UV8NE


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Anthemx11 said:


> I went 9 speed on mine. Got every thing off ebay for under a $75 and I am running SRAM XO shifters with SRAM X9 derailleurs. I am very happy with this set up.


So, curious what you went with. You must have gone with a different hub since I've never seen a 9sp free-wheel cassette. And if you went with a different hub I'm curious how you mated hub quick-disconnects to the frame.


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

Nope ebay has 9 speed free wheels. They use the on e-bike. They are any where from $15 to $35. They are heavy but well built. So I never had to mess with the hub at all.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

They even make 10-speed freewheels. My biggest concern with them is how well the hub is manufactured. Freewheels thread onto the hub, and if the hub threads aren't square, then the freewheel can wobble. Not a big deal on 7 or 8 speed, but if there is wobble, it can cause the chain to jump around between gears on a 10-speed. It would be entirely dependent on how good the threads are, and every wheel will be different. some wally world bikes would be perfect (feels odd saying that) while some will dance around.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

This thread is great. Very helpful for us newer guys. 9 speed seems intriguing. With the hills I will be climbing on my fatty, I will definitely upgrade to that or the megarange. Got some research to do now.


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

Finally got around to converting the front wheel over to a quick release. I got the axle that was linked from Amazon and ended up having to cut 2-3mm off it so it didnt stick out of the fork. The skewer I got it also a bit too long, so that will have to be trimmed down. The dust covers had to be "adjusted" to fit on the cones, they were too big and slid right over the new cones. Overall, pretty easy if you have a basic idea of how to work on a hub.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

drdave81,
what was the brand name and original length?


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO9PCU?redirect=true&pldnSite=1

This is the one that Watts linked a page or two back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHYCK16/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the skewer I used (the longer one of course).


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Thanks drdave.
Reading through this thread, I have noticed some people talking about the megarange. Some people say its the best thing they have ever done and others say they feel like the gear they are looking for would be somewhere between the lowest two gears. And other people have talked about converting from 7 to 8 speed freewheel. If the low on a megarange is 34t and the low on the 8 speed is 32t, would it make more sense for me to convert to 8 speed on a Malus?


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

I think it's a preference really. The jump from 34 to 24 teeth on the megarange is big, but not too bad for me. A friend of mine that rode it said it was way too much for him. It would be better if it was there, but I won't go buying another freewheel just because of it. If you have the option, I guess go with the 8 speed. It's close to the same price and you get rid of the possibility of it being too big of a gap for you.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

drdave81 said:


> I think it's a preference really. The jump from 34 to 24 teeth on the megarange is big, but not too bad for me. A friend of mine that rode it said it was way too much for him. It would be better if it was there, but I won't go buying another freewheel just because of it. If you have the option, I guess go with the 8 speed. It's close to the same price and you get rid of the possibility of it being too big of a gap for you.


Yeah. I will try out the stock 7 speed first. I have quite a few hills I ride but only a few are really tough. One steep rollercoaster on my favorite trail about a half mile long. But the steep downs help a lot with the inclines when you use them right. I am in decent shape and make it up all of them on my Trek 820. Plus I ride some sugar sand connector trails on other rides. Those are a bear on skinnies. I will give the stock freewheel a try first. It may be just fine for my riding. Just keeping my options open for upgrades. Thanks


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Just as a warning to others, I set mine up with Qtubes (I think 24x2.75) and presta valves. Was going along just fine riding in a sandy wash with about 10psi on both F/R. Looked down and had a flat on the front after about 2.5 miles. Since I didn't have a socket set with me, twas a nice long walk back. Went into the garage this morning and noticed the rear was flat as well. I haven't checked the rear, but the front presta valve separated from the tube. Curious to see if the other is the same way. Just an fyi to be careful with the presta q-tubes.

**edit: Just also fyi, the FBNs and Qtubes were great on the sand. Was a heck of a lot of fun. Too bad it didn't last.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Needs a pic.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Every moment like that needs a pic. Been down that hike a bike road before. walked back over 4 1/2 miles because I thought my bike was invincible. learned my lesson and never go unprepared any more. no big deal to me. part of the mtb life. but i have learned from it and will def carry a socket or upgrade to quick release. Will make the rules as i go and upgrade as i go as well. Great pic dude. Nice looking ride.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

Anthemx11 said:


> Here is my Dolo build. Drilled wheels with a tire and tube change, Lighter bars and stem, alumium fork, 9speed freewheel with all Sram twist grip shifters and rear derailleurs, Shimano SLX 2x up front. Not sure what the crank is off of found it on craigslist for sale fits like a glove though, Changed to front axel to use a quick release,and Hydro brakes. Well under 40lbs now. Now this is a fun bike. All parts I picked up really cheap I have less then $400 in to this bike all togeather.
> 
> View attachment 1113766
> View attachment 1113767


Dude, I need to know what bottom bracket, spindle, spacer, crank setup your using?


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## osue077 (May 28, 2012)

Where did you get the front derailleur? And what is the crankset you have on that thing?



Anthemx11 said:


> Here is my Dolo build. Drilled wheels with a tire and tube change, Lighter bars and stem, alumium fork, 9speed freewheel with all Sram twist grip shifters and rear derailleurs, Shimano SLX 2x up front. Not sure what the crank is off of found it on craigslist for sale fits like a glove though, Changed to front axel to use a quick release,and Hydro brakes. Well under 40lbs now. Now this is a fun bike. All parts I picked up really cheap I have less then $400 in to this bike all togeather.
> 
> View attachment 1113766
> View attachment 1113767


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

I bought this set up off craigslist. It was a take off so there is no name on it. BB is 100mm width and the way the crank is set up it is off a newer bike that can run 5" tires because the width between the arms is just under 8". Wish I knew more


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## Anthemx11 (Jan 4, 2017)

Front derailleur is a Shimano SLX direct mount $12 ebay new. Just have to find the one that mounts up with the Problem solver derailleur hanger. Works really well.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Season 3 started last month for my Dolo. Its been a fun time riding, might pick up some new wheels next winter, might not. Spokes have some surface rust but this thing has been a tank, new wide bar will be installed before this weekends ride.

Also anyone looking for a freewheel upgrade without the big jump in teeth from 1st to 2nd, I've gotten a good amount of miles from this sunrace 8 speed on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-Free...ds=8+speed+freewheel&refinements=p_89:SunRace


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

New bars are a bit wider, increased the angle of my stem and the new bars have a good amount more sweep, so I'm less hunched over when I ride. All seem like improvements, except almost all the snow has melted up here!


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

So. I just set up the front wheel tubeless. It's kept pressure now (about 20psi) for about 12 hours. I used the ghetto tubeless technique. For those curious, here's what I did:

-Placed a 24x2.7-3.0 Specialized tube on the rim and partially inflated.
-Cut down the line opposite the valve and spread the tube apart.
-Cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol and removed the tube.
-Cut sill foam to fit between the two bead seats on the rim. 
-Wrapped sill foam twice around the rim taping down the beginning of the foam and then the end of the foam onto itself.
-After melting a small hole in the foam for the valve, placed the split tube back on the rim and spread it out.
-Wet the tube with soap/water and somehow got the Fat B Nimbles onto the rim...was very tight and difficult to do. I had to use a tire lever and at certain places had to just get the tire over the rim and pull the split tube back out under the tire (maybe I could have used more water or taped the tube to the rim to make it easier).
-With the tire on, dripped some Stans between the outside of the tire and the split tube.
-Inflated with a stand up pump...vigorously, but not too bad.

Some Stans came out along the sides of the tire/rim area. I inflated, did the Stans shake, inlfated a little more, a little more shake and then went to full 20 psi. It held and a few minutes later I took a quick 5 minute ride.

As I said, 12 hours later, it's holding.









For those curious, rim is about 4.15 lbs.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Pack66 said:


> Not sure on the photos, maybe try and use the imgur website to post photos? Or use photo editing software to reduce the size.
> 
> One thing to mention for you Pathfinder (82nd ABN?), changing tires/tubes on the Dolo can be a ***** because it does not have a quick release on either hub. When you do get one, plan to ride with a socket in case you need to get the tire off.
> 
> Seeing as I probably won't get this to setup tubeless, I may have to sell and step up to the Argus. As tubeless is a must in the desert, I would have to buy a new wheelset for tubeless and QRs.





mabrodis said:


> Nice.
> 
> You going to keep the stock crank?
> 
> ...


Just pushed the button. Now 3 to 5 business days I will start my first winter on mine. Hoping for some snow end of January and all of February. I will grease and tune it immediately and already planning my upgrades. First two will be trigger shifter and break levers. After some riding I will decide on whether I want to upgrade to megarange or a sunracer 8 speed freewhell


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Already ordered shimano altus trigger shifter. See which arrives first. haha


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Enjoy, front crank replacement will be the best gearing upgrade you will make, not pricey either!


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

So been having a blast on the Oceanside sandy beaches and recent snow with the Malus since getting this bike last summer. Paid $210 when Sports Authority was going out of business. Only upgrades have been BB7 brakes and Bontrager flat pedals. I'm now noticing the shortfalls of the cranks and BB. I think a crank is slightly bent and the BB is making noise (salt water and sand). So I read parts of this thread and my head is still spinning. I plan on replacing the crank with the 175mm Vuelta crankset and running the center 32t ring. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081UV7LC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For the BB do I just get the YST sealed cupset and pack with grease? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081UV7LC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And/OR get the Shimano UN
-55-BB? They list two 68x110 BB's
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DTIG9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU

Really enjoying this bike and want to keep it rolling. Thanks for the help!


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yes to the vuelta crank, and if you want it allows you to take off the largest 44 tooth ring, and yes to the YST plus as much grease as needed. That U55 won't fit as far as I know and once you pack the BB with grease and have the YST locked snug and adjusted correctly you should notice a big difference. If you can find a cheap BB that works it might be worth it cause you're near the beach but I've had my dolo in a few feet of water at the beach and I have only needed to regrease it once after the 3 years.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The shimano crank linked to won't work. it's for a 68mm bottom bracket sheel for a normal sized (aka "wimpy") mountain bike. The YST bearings with lots of crease are a great upgrade, but if the crank axle is bent, it's a hard thing to fix. Maybe contact pacific with warranty?

Another possibility is this origin8 bottom bracket. Multiple reports of it will and it won't work. I have one but didn't install it before I sold my dolo. I did put crankarms on it (Truvativ 5d), and based on measurements, they would have allowed the crankarms to clear the chain stay tubes. For $15, might be worth a try. Maybe a little sanding of the crankarms and some washer spacers on the pedal bolts. Chainline will be different though, so you might only get the outermost 104 chainring position.
https://www.amazon.com/SET-OR8-100x164-XLT-STL-CUP/dp/B00SM1OWOO


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

Thanks for the info! I ordered the Vuelta crank, tools, YST cupset, and the OR8 BB (hey, for $15 dollers what the hell). I'll try the BB first and report back. Now if I run the 32t chainring, that should help the low end gearing over the stock 36t. Right now 1st is too high on long steep hills and deep sand.

I trail ride a single speed 32/18 and it's great on our trails except for a few long steep rooty hills. And it's a 21 lb bike, less then half the Malus. If I use the center 32t ring of the Vuelta on The Malus , 5th gear will be the same 32/18 ratio as the SS. That leaves me with 4 lower gears. It will make the Malus easier on the hills. How much better, we'll see.

Ride on!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If the 32T doesn't work, could also get the raceface NW 30T chainring. Bolts up to a 104 BCD crankset. And let us know how that org8 bottom bracket works.


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

watts888 said:


> If the 32T doesn't work, could also get the raceface NW 30T chainring. Bolts up to a 104 BCD crankset. And let us know how that org8 bottom bracket works.


I certainly will. Should be here in about a week.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Yea that 22T on the vuelta will let you climb some pretty crazy inclines, I posted a video somewhere here, but it lets you take off up a hill from a standstill. The only reason I got the 8 speed sunrace with the granny gear was for really powdery snow conditions.


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

momikey said:


> Yea that 22T on the vuelta will let you climb some pretty crazy inclines, I posted a video somewhere here, but it lets you take off up a hill from a standstill. The only reason I got the 8 speed sunrace with the granny gear was for really powdery snow conditions.


Did you add a front derailer to go from 22t to 32t?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Na, just swap it to 32 if I'm gonna be on a bike path, 99% of the time i'm on hilly trails using the 22T


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

Do you run out of gearing with the 22t on a flat dry trail? Do you know how the 32t is over the stock 36t? Help much? I'm just looking for the 32t to make it a little easier. And still want some top end when needed. Not too hilly here but there are a few climbs and deep sand getting to the shoreline where the 36t is a bit too tall.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

32 is a noticeable increase in trail riding over stock as far as I remember. 22 makes it a different bike, hills don't get in the way at all. The 32t should give you the effect of one or two lower gears, the O.P. had some great gearing diagrams on here of what each upgrade will do. Either way you are gonna like the new front crank, best gearing change I'll say.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

And those vueltra chainrings are bolted on. You can easily find a 26T or 28T 64BCD chainring to bolt to the vuelta crank for under $10 on amazon.


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

watts888 said:


> And those vueltra chainrings are bolted on. You can easily find a 26T or 28T 64BCD chainring to bolt to the vuelta crank for under $10 on amazon.


Good to know. I'll see how the 32t does and take it from there. I don't mind mashing some to get to the top, but this 36t ring is pathetic on the hills. Stand, pull on the bars and mash till you stop. That's how I bent a crank arm.


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## bill8018 (Jan 20, 2017)

So after doing a bunch of looking on this site as well as just in general, I wanted to know if we could replace our bottom brackets with the Origin8 100x164. I found a lot of yes and no but nobody could agree if it did or not. So I bought the parts. The good news is that the bottom bracket fits perfectly....but the bad news is that the Vuelta Montagna crankset does not fit. 

So, has anybody used a different crankset that would work? The only problem with the Vuelta is the left arm hits the frame.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

I notice they offer their bb's with different spindle lengths. What spindle length did you get?


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## bill8018 (Jan 20, 2017)

I have the longer 164 one. I'm going to try the Shimano M361 crankset, it will be in on Sunday. Another member on this forum did it, said it was close, but I'd rather have close than hitting.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Here it is fresh out of the box. Greased, tuned and ready for the build a bike program. Took it for a ride. Initial thoughts. Awesome!!!


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

Looking good!


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Nor'easter here today. Supposed to get my rapid fire trigger shift today. Not sure it will come in this weather. Been on a few rides. Took it on a short trail by my house. The trail had a small incline. I made it up no prob. But I can see how some of the bigger hills in my area may be tough. Will def be ordering the megarange soon. I know we get what we pay for. But even with upgrades we will have a nice bike at a fraction of the cost. What other upgrades might people suggest. Has anyone had any problems with the drive train?. Crankset, derailleur, chain? Btw. My brakes are actually very good. The stopping power impressed me. I will probably replace the levers. Plastic no bueno. I will keep you updated on my progress.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

bill8018 said:


> I have the longer 164 one. I'm going to try the Shimano M361 crankset, it will be in on Sunday. Another member on this forum did it, said it was close, but I'd rather have close than hitting.


The Shimano Acera M361 will work with the Origin8 100x164 bottom bracket on the Dolomite


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> The Shimano Acera M361 will work with the Origin8 100x164 bottom bracket on the Dolomite


pics? newer dolomite (offroad looking tires) or the old dolomite (psyco heavy block tread tires)? Basic Acera crankset off amazon? special version of it?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> Will def be ordering the megarange soon. I know we get what we pay for. But even with upgrades we will have a nice bike at a fraction of the cost. What other upgrades might people suggest. Has anyone had any problems with the drive train?. Crankset, derailleur, chain?


Since you're getting the acera shifter, I'd go with an 8-speed freewheel. That last megarange gear shift is still crazy huge. And an alloy brake lever for the left grip. the acera shifter should come with an integrated alloy brake lever, so no reason not to get a good one for the front brake too.

IMO, other than the shifter, the drivetrain wasn't that bad. Chain was a solid KMC chain (although I added a missing link so I could remove it easier for cleaning), the rear derailure is acceptable for the price, the shifter housing is legitimate shifter housing with internal plastic sleeve lining. Probably will rust if left outside, but if the bike is treated well, it should work fine for years.

Upgrades are a personal choice. new tires and tubes for light weight, although just tubes will make a noticeable difference. Handlebar and stem for a stronger and better quality, although the stock one is OK. Steel handlebar, so it's heavy and there have been reports of it bending under heavy landings. Seat, because it's a personal thing. Grips will be needed because you're getting rid of the grip shift. And a good set of grips are nice.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> pics? newer dolomite (offroad looking tires) or the old dolomite (psyco heavy block tread tires)? Basic Acera crankset off amazon? special version of it?


Look at page 50 of this thread. I posted some pics of my ride (Dolo)


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## tonered (Mar 7, 2016)

drdave81 said:


> Got my dolo last week and after a few tweaks it rides pretty decently. I have new rotors on the way since these are a bit warped. Also, would this be the correct size bolt to switch the front wheel over to a quick release? I would order the skewer as well. I don't have a bike rack, and with the front wheel off, it will fit just fine in the back of my Jeep.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/HUB-AXLE-SET-RR-10x1x135x146QR8sCRMO/dp/B000AO9PCU





watts888 said:


> Yes, but... the stock axle is an English thread and this is metric. Almost no difference, but you need to make sure you don't mix and match the axle nuts. Also will need to move over the dust shield. Simple tap off and tap on with a socket and light hammer taps. May need to add a washer or two to space the axle width to 135mm, and may need to redish the rim to center it a tiny bit. Easy tasks.


I just want to say thanks. I picked up that axle a month or so ago and just installed it this weekend. I cut off two threads from one side then gently ground it down until it fit perfectly. A little off of both sides.

This will make transporting a lot easier and faster.

Have a good one.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Since you're getting the acera shifter, I'd go with an 8-speed freewheel. That last megarange gear shift is still crazy huge. And an alloy brake lever for the left grip. the acera shifter should come with an integrated alloy brake lever, so no reason not to get a good one for the front brake too.
> 
> IMO, other than the shifter, the drivetrain wasn't that bad. Chain was a solid KMC chain (although I added a missing link so I could remove it easier for cleaning), the rear derailure is acceptable for the price, the shifter housing is legitimate shifter housing with internal plastic sleeve lining. Probably will rust if left outside, but if the bike is treated well, it should work fine for years.
> 
> Upgrades are a personal choice. new tires and tubes for light weight, although just tubes will make a noticeable difference. Handlebar and stem for a stronger and better quality, although the stock one is OK. Steel handlebar, so it's heavy and there have been reports of it bending under heavy landings. Seat, because it's a personal thing. Grips will be needed because you're getting rid of the grip shift. And a good set of grips are nice.


Got about 20 miles on it so far. Would have more if not for the 3 days of rain. But I love the way it rides. Some road and some trails. The stock freewheel is fine for slight uphills, but def will upgrade. It's a bit of a workout getting it rolling, but not nearly as bad as some reports I've heard. Once it gets rolling, it's like a freight train. It's a great feeling. I have also run some road and trail tests to get a feel for the weight and maneuverability.

It feels a lot lighter than I thought it would be on jumps. Granted I am not doing Mountain Creek downhill jumps. But for the average rider its great. Maybe it's the shock effect of the tires, but it gets up pretty easy and lands softly.

And maneuvering is also very good as well. Its no skinny, but it handles great. The best part to me is top speed handling. Hitting a sharp turn on a trail at the bottom of a steep hill is amazing. After a few of those the confidence in handling is proven quickly. It takes the cake over any skinny in that aspect.

Watts,
I agree with you on the drive train components. KMC is a good name and all of the components are good quality for the money spent. I am not expecting miracles with this thing, but it rides really smooth and easy. If and when things break or wear out I will replace as needed. Even the twist shift is actually pretty smooth. But that is one thing that held true to the reviews. It is easy to inadvertently shift on trails. Got my trigger from UPS and will switch that out this weekend. Question with that. Can you switch to trigger without removing entire cable? If so a good instructional link if anyone has one?...

As far as the weight and tires? I am fine for now. Replace as needed.

Handlebars? I love them. My Trek 820 had 635mm. Over 700 is nice even with the big tires. I feel like I have complete control. Stem is fine too. Wont be doing enough to bend/break either of them.

Brake levers, definitely upgrade.

Seat, is a lot better than the seat on my Trek, but I hated that seat and probably will hate this one on the many long rides I have planned in those Pine Barrens. So definitely upgrade that too.

Elite riders who spend thousands on a bike, and ride it hard all of the time...I get why they spend that much. And I agree with their rationale.

Average riders(Novice to Intermediate). My recommendation is for you. I have spent $209 so far. When I am done, I will have spent less than 300. That number will vary slightly, for each consumer, due to personal taste. I highly recommend this bike to anyone new to fat biking. Its a great bike for the price.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> Can you switch to trigger without removing entire cable? If so a good instructional link if anyone has one?...


Sorry, but you have to pull the entire cable out of the housing and shifter. In principle, might be a good idea to stop by an LBS to get a spare cable (couple bucks). An alternative is a Bell brand cable and housing kit from wallyworld. The housing is junk for indexed shifting, but OK for the brake. The metal cables are simple and the same quality as stock dolo cables.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Watts
Yeah. I thought so. Just wanted to be sure. Not a problem. Plenty of links for that. Thanks for the info.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Since you're getting the acera shifter, I'd go with an 8-speed freewheel.
> 
> Well I bought the 7 speed shifter. Question. Is the stock chain compatible for the 8 speed sunracer freewheel?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> Is the stock chain compatible for the 8 speed sunracer freewheel?


Yes. 5,6,7 & 8 speeds all use the same chain size, commonly sold as an 8-speed chain.

Since you bought the 7-speed shifter, I'd stick with the stock a 7-speed freewheel till it goes out. Better to do a crankset swap to get the lower gears if this is the case. The shimano crank and the origin8 bottom bracket mentioned above are supposed to work well together and clear the frame. Can't get much better than that for cheap.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

I bought my son the kid's version of the Dolomite/Mallus, the Pug. Most everything is the same as the Mallus, so I bought the upgraded bottom bracket, 8-speed trigger shifter, 8-speed freewheel, etc. Almost no grease on anything. So we installed all of the parts last night without a problem, but the chain binds in 1st gear (smallest gear is 1st, right?) It actually is catching between the frame. I have an 8 speed chain, but was trying to re-use the 7-speed chain. There doesn't seem to be any major difference between the chain width, but I don't have a caliper handy to check for sure. That being said, the hanger bolt pokes out the back of the bike frame, which is not the case on my Mallus.

Worst case senario we swap the 8-speed onto my Mallus and I put the hi-range 7-speed on his bike, but I've already cut the shifter cable so it will be to short. How hard is it to replace the cable?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Cable swap is easy. To get the 8 speed to work, just throw a washer on the axle before pitying on the wheel. Spreads the area between the frame and gears. What I did on the dolomite, and it worked fine.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Cable swap is easy. To get the 8 speed to work, just throw a washer on the axle before pitying on the wheel. Spreads the area between the frame and gears. What I did on the dolomite, and it worked fine.


Cool, thanks for the tip!


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

I have a 30T on mine and it makes a huge difference n heavy thick stuff.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

I have a Dolo and a vinson. Have the cheap 90 buck chinese fork on the Dolo which works reasonably well. Found this yesterday and ordered. Will replace the one on the Dolo and probably order a 2nd for the Vinson. 5" travel, up to 5" tire, bluto quality air fork. 5.8 lbs. https://lunacycle.com/luna-lander-fat-suspension-fork-for-sondors/


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

steve1324 said:


> I have a Dolo and a vinson. Have the cheap 90 buck chinese fork on the Dolo which works reasonably well. Found this yesterday and ordered. Will replace the one on the Dolo and probably order a 2nd for the Vinson. 5" travel, up to 5" tire, bluto quality air fork. 5.8 lbs. https://lunacycle.com/luna-lander-fat-suspension-fork-for-sondors/


Just wondering how you can compare it with a Bluto? Have you tried both?


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

The YST bb is back on Amazon as of right now.


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

So I finally got the Vueltra crank and YST cupset installed. The 32T ring is about what I was looking for, slightly lower gearing. I did a ride after work today on some technical trails (Hartshorne Woods Park, NJ), which this heavy pig wasn't intended for, just to put it to the test. Bike itself did surprisingly well, but the drivetrain was a mess. Chain kept coming off the crank ring on every rough bumpy downhill and shifting was horrible. When I got home I riveted the stock chain guide on the inside of the chainring so the chain is now sandwiched between that on the inside and the 42t sprocket on the outside. The chain is also real loose when in high gears (going downhill) so I'm guessing I may have to shorten the chain a link or two running the smaller 32t chainring to get rid of the slop? 
I also adjusted the derailluer (H,L, and index)and it's better but still noisy and not as smooth as I'd like. The Tourney is a piece of garbage. So what is a good 7 speed derailluer upgrade? Anyone try Altus?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Nice work, I run on the 22T at all times because I live in the woods. Pretty sure I removed multiple links, can't remember exactly now but my chain is significantly smaller than stock. Either way you can use an online calculator I think, to determine chain length for your certain gearing. 

The stock chain is actually pretty strong too.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

SRAM x4 derailleur and shifter, set the limits for 7 speed. In the future you could upgrade to 8 speed freewheel and set the limits back to 8 speed. You could also get a One Up narrow wide chainring for $40 for your Vuelta crankset to help with chain retention.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

The offset from the stockchainring to aftermarket ones like Vuelta are a good 8+milimeters. I'd look for a 64BCD chainring that's in the 29T range for a better chainline. I found a 29T controltech alloy ring for $8 on amazon. The price bounces around between under $10 and over $45. And yea, cut the chain some. You can also tighten up the derailure's spring by using the second tension spring hole in the derailure housing. Park tools has some instrucitons on how to do it under their servicing and rebuilding a rear derailure section.

Altus is an OK upgrade over the Tourney. Not amazing, but you'll notice it on the bumpy trails. You can also find older Allivio and even Deore 8-speed derailures that will work. Basically, if it's shimano and designed for 8-speed, it'll work.


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## steve1324 (Jul 12, 2014)

There ad states compare to a Bluto. I personally have not tried a Bluto. Don't ride aggressively enough to need it.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I imagine it rides closer to what a suntour XCR with air cartridge would ride. Acceptable fork with rebound adjust, but when it comes time to do any service, happy trails to you.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

First time on a local trail near my house I dropped the chain three times. A lot of steep hills and stumps. Went to my LBS. They were very helpful. They told me to remove 2 links and sold me two pack of master links for a dollar. I put one on and I have been back out there four times. I haven't had a problem since. And shifting is smoother too. Trail is fun as hell now. Still think this bike is awesome.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just keep in mind that the rear hub uses a freewheel style, and a larger section of the axle is not supported by bearings like a freehub. It does have an increased risk of bending the axle during jumps/logs/roots. Even small ones. The hub will still work, but once they start bending, you have increased risk of damaging the bearings and bearing race surface. Every now and then, take the wheel out and check the axle to see if it's bent. Just spin the axle around a couple times and you'll know. If it's bent, when you put it back in the frame, make sure the bend is facing upward (like a "U" shape). That way, when you do further landings, you push the axle back straight.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Thanks Watts. Took it all apart last night. I went with the megarange(figured I would try the $15 fix before spending more money). Anyway I love the megarange. Took it out for a test ride last night on some trails near my house and it ran really smooth. The 24-34 shift was smooth and the granny gear is amazing. Haven't made it to that hilly trail by my house yet, but I can tell the 34t is going to get me right up them hills. I already use the 24 a lot on that trail. So its the perfect ratio for me. I used to make it easily on my Trek and that is what the granny gear felt like. I think I will have a blast when I get a chance to take on them sandy trails in the Pines too. When I took the rear wheel apart I checked it like you said Watts. Everything was perfect. I am 230 and have been running this thing hard on that trail. Jumps, stumps and quick downhils. Harder than I have run any other bike I've owned. Seems to be holding up great. I will check it periodically. Figured while I was in there I would clean and regrease again too. Why not... grease is cheap. I may eventually upgrade to YST just because its not expensive and much easier to work with. I am thankful for all the help I have found on this thread. I have always been the type that's not afraid to learn new things. This site is helping me become my own bike maintenance mechanic. And this Malus has kept me smiling since I took it out of the box.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

*night ride*

testing out the freewheel on local trail


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## Doctorsti (May 25, 2008)

Just a heads up for anyone roaming this thread the Mongoose Hitch is selling for $79 free shipping right now from Walmart. Seriously can't even buy a tires for that price. For a project $79 is exactly the right price.


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## narroway (Feb 7, 2017)

*$80 Fat Bike*



Doctorsti said:


> Just a heads up for anyone roaming this thread the Mongoose Hitch is selling for $79 free shipping right now from Walmart. Seriously can't even buy a tires for that price. For a project $79 is exactly the right price.


Doctorsti, That's great your kinda reading my mail. Im roaming this thread because I just ordered the Hitch for $79 and Im trying to figure what to do to it when it gets here.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

It didn't last long. Just checked the website 249$ shipped 😭😔


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## narroway (Feb 7, 2017)

Luis_fx35 said:


> It didn't last long. Just checked the website 249$ shipped 😭😔


Dammmit...... So sorry to hear that man. That was very short lived wonder if it was some sorta glitch. watch Ill prob get a "sorry your order has been canceled" type of message


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/MALUS.jpg

Transforming to Beast Mode. Getting there! This is my playground.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

I know it's in here somewhere, but I don't have access to a computer right now and using phone is tough to search. So my question. Would you recommend tubeless for this bike. It just seems like it would save a lot of weight and seems to make sense for this bike. Has anyone done this. Pros and Cons. Thank you.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

I have an awesome Dolomite, but for some reason my pic won't post in this thread. When I figure it out how to get the thumbnail and emoji options, you will be amazed. Soon to be bedazzled....

https://plus.google.com/114863097524180831430/posts/cnWSmdBKpwq


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

Scottster said:


> I have an awesome Dolomite, but for some reason my pic won't post in this thread. When I figure it out how to get the thumbnail and emoji options, you will be amazed. Soon to be bedazzled....
> 
> https://plus.google.com/114863097524180831430/posts/cnWSmdBKpwq


Looks like you added a front hub motor?


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

A quick update on the Vuelta Crank and 32t chain ring. I shortened the chain 2 links and now the tension is right. I also couldn't get the crappy Tourney derailleur to run or shift smooth after a few rides in the sand and getting hit and bent around in the woods a few times. Slight upgrade to the Shimano Altus for $20 and all is back to normal. Seems like a needed improvement over the Tourney. 
The 32t chain ring does improve the low end over the 36T that comes on the Malus, but I'm not sure yet if it will be low enough in the forest. I'll be riding the forest tomorrow in 3" of snow that fell today and see how it feels. My feeling is I may have to go 27T or 28T to be where I need it. And the small 22T ring on the Vuelta is definitely too low for the terrain. Stay tuned.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

Jammr said:


> Looks like you added a front hub motor?


Oh yes. You know that's right. 52v- 1000w -25mph-72lbs-

https://lunacycle.com/fat-ebike-kit-1000-watt-waterproof-connectors-4-inch-rim/


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

*Derailleur*



Jammr said:


> A quick update on the Vuelta Crank and 32t chain ring. I shortened the chain 2 links and now the tension is right. I also couldn't get the crappy Tourney derailleur to run or shift smooth after a few rides in the sand and getting hit and bent around in the woods a few times. Slight upgrade to the Shimano Altus for $20 and all is back to normal. Seems like a needed improvement over the Tourney.
> The 32t chain ring does improve the low end over the 36T that comes on the Malus, but I'm not sure yet if it will be low enough in the forest. I'll be riding the forest tomorrow in 3" of snow that fell today and see how it feels. My feeling is I may have to go 27T or 28T to be where I need it. And the small 22T ring on the Vuelta is definitely too low for the terrain. Stay tuned.


Haven't had a problem yet with the tourney jammr. With these bikes sometimes I think it's just luck of the draw. It's been shifting smooth and easy. My upgrades have made it a different bike. I did the chain thing too and added a master link for easy access. The mega range has been awesome. Conquering steep 80 ft hills like nothing. And then trigger shifter is awesome too. I love it. Just contemplating lighter tubes or tubeless now. Have rims half drilled out. 16 holes on each rim right now. Was running out of time so figured I would throw on some tape and finish later. Needed to get a ride in. Lol. Will finish that this weekend. Lighter tubes or tubeless? Staying tuned for your fix on the crank issues. Good luck. Keep us posted.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

I am looking to paint the black rim that came with a hub motor to match the other red rim and make a Dolomite look better. So far the closest color match I can find is Massey Ferguson Red. If anybody knows a better color, please let me know


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## Jammr (Oct 2, 2016)

pathfinder67 said:


> Haven't had a problem yet with the tourney jammr. With these bikes sometimes I think it's just luck of the draw. It's been shifting smooth and easy. My upgrades have made it a different bike. I did the chain thing too and added a master link for easy access. The mega range has been awesome. Conquering steep 80 ft hills like nothing. And then trigger shifter is awesome too. I love it. Just contemplating lighter tubes or tubeless now. Have rims half drilled out. 16 holes on each rim right now. Was running out of time so figured I would throw on some tape and finish later. Needed to get a ride in. Lol. Will finish that this weekend. Lighter tubes or tubeless? Staying tuned for your fix on the crank issues. Good luck. Keep us posted.


Problem I had was I put the Tourney thru the ringer in just a few rides. Covered and clogged up with beach sand one ride caused problems, stick jams, and getting hit and bent up a few times in the forest was too much. Just not very robust. Don't know how the Altus will hold up but it looks beefier. I didn't go the Mega range route because of the big leap between 1st and 2nd cog. I want all the gears to be lower so a smaller front chain ring makes better sense for me. Might go to trigger shift. Just working on getting this beast as best I can for what I ride. It's heavy at 46 lbs but the weight doesn't bother me with this bike. I even use the kickstand. lol. Makes a stronger rider when I get back on my other MTB's which are 28 and 22 lbs. I only use this bike to ride the local ocean shoreline sand and snow, where the other bikes aren't capable. 
So far it's been a cheap way to Fat Bike and IMHO a good deal if your willing to accept the weight and it's shortcomings and throw a few cheap upgrades at it. LBS says they'll give me a great deal on a Trek Farley 5 FB but I think this bike is all I need for what and how often I use a Fat Bike. Time will tell.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

Laid back seat post with 5" offset puts my seat over the back tire making my Dolomite more comfortable to ride.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Jammr. I got the "older" model with the charcoal rims. It weighed 43.1 lbs out of the box. I just weighed it yesterday at 40.6 lbs. That's just from losing the reflectors, the kickstand and drilling some holes. If I can get it down to 36-37 I would be happy with that. Even 38 would make me happy. Plus the ten I have dropped in the month that I've had this thing definitely helps as well. If I stay with the tube set up, the lighter tubes, new stem, and possibly new bars, will get me real close to the desired weight. Then I am done. My Trek 820 is 33 lbs. I will never get the speed comparable to my Trek. I don't care about that because the Malus is fast enough for me and the trade off for a few pounds and traction control is priceless. Funny thing is I ride on sand and snow as well. But I also ride it on all of the trails that I rode my Trek on and it has made me feel like a better rider. I know I am not, but I, confidently, do way more on it than I did on the Trek. The trails are way more fun now and I am on it almost every day. Still feeling sturdy and very smooth. Best investment I have ever made for my outdoor activity lifestyle. It has already paid for itself and then some.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/thumbs/MALUS.jpg
https://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/thumbs/IMG_11621.jpg

what a difference a day makes. same spot. one day 65 degrees. the next 25


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> Would you recommend tubeless for this bike. It just seems like it would save a lot of weight and seems to make sense for this bike. Has anyone done this. Pros and Cons. Thank you.


IMO, I wouldn't bother on this bike. It can be done with enough effort and technique, but not worth it. The rims are kinda junk for a tubeless setup. Split tube with sill foam is the best way, but even that is a challenge. Even if you do get it setup, pretty high risk of burping the tire off the rim.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Thanks Watts. That's why I was asking. There are some quality light weight tubes out there anyway. I am just trying to save some weight wherever possible. It wont matter much on my long rides in the pines. But I do ride some nice trails with some gnarl to them and I get this beast in the air sometimes. Just trying to make it as fun as possible without breaking the bank.


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## joemartucci (Feb 10, 2017)

Hey everyone, I'm looking at getting a dolomite on amazon and there are SO MANY mongoose fat tire models. I'm not sure which to get. I see the Dolomite, Malus, and Hitch. There are also the Beast and Brutus but I don't want the foot brake. All of these models seem identical aside from the drivetrains.

I believe the Malus is the newer version of the dolomite and is lighter. The Hitch has different rims with the tube holes which probably makes it lighter than the Malus. I can't find any real info.

Any recommendations?


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## plc1fp (Dec 16, 2016)

I just got a hitch on sale and it seems to be lighter than my Dolomite and ha drilled rims
Dolomite 48lbs versus Hitch 42 lbs. Watch for a price rollback as I got the Hitch for $79 on a 12 hour rollback last Sunday.


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## joemartucci (Feb 10, 2017)

duplicate post, sorry!


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## joemartucci (Feb 10, 2017)

plc1fp said:


> I just got a hitch on sale and it seems to be lighter than my Dolomite and ha drilled rims
> Dolomite 48lbs versus Hitch 42 lbs. Watch for a price rollback as I got the Hitch for $79 on a 12 hour rollback last Sunday.


$79!? Where?


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## plc1fp (Dec 16, 2016)

Walmart last Sunday, but the rollback was short lived and the price returned to $249 a short time later. Someone posted the rollback price in the Fat Bike forum.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Worth calling wallyworld to see if you can get that price. IMO, I'd rather have the hitch or malus because of the slightly longer fork. I thought the dolo's fork was too short for the mountain bike handling I prefer. It was fine on road/beach/flat stuff though.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

joemartucci said:


> Hey everyone, I'm looking at getting a dolomite on amazon and there are SO MANY mongoose fat tire models. I'm not sure which to get. I see the Dolomite, Malus, and Hitch. There are also the Beast and Brutus but I don't want the foot brake. All of these models seem identical aside from the drivetrains.
> 
> I believe the Malus is the newer version of the dolomite and is lighter. The Hitch has different rims with the tube holes which probably makes it lighter than the Malus. I can't find any real info.
> 
> Any recommendations?


I have the Malus. I love it. It's also a few pounds lighter than the dolomite. Maybe a pound or two heavier than the Hitch. They are all good bikes. Great for the price. Read through this thread. It helped me tremendously. Take your time. Don't rush.i chose the Malus because it's lighter than the dolo and I was able to find a lot more info and reviews on it than the Hitch. The Hitch might be a great bike. Research. The dolo and Malus are no brainers. Only rider preference separates them IMHO. Good luck and have fun


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## Doctorsti (May 25, 2008)

I got both of my $79 Mongoose Hitch in today and weighed the one I assembled at 44lbs 10oz. I have a beast as well and it's surprising how much lighter the wheels on the hitch are now. Has to be a combo of the drilled rims and lighter tires. At 44.6lbs I'm pretty happy as I was expecting a 50lb bike. 

Currently trying to set up the total garbage mechanical discs. These levers are total trash and will be upgraded first. 

I don't think it will take much to get this down to 40lbs or less. Shoot, for $80 purchase price I can guilt free put $170 into it and still be at the low retail price of $249.

One getting built up for some simple trail riding with my 8 yr old and the other getting turned into a beach bike. Really happy I fell into that crazy stupid deal! I mean there is zero chance Walmart made anything on this bike selling it for $79 with free FedEx 2 day shipping from Florida to Delaware. The shipping on 50lbs bike box is at least that much by itself. Totally insane.


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## joemartucci (Feb 10, 2017)

Doctorsti said:


> I got both of my $79 Mongoose Hitch in today and weighed the one I assembled at 44lbs 10oz. I have a beast as well and it's surprising how much lighter the wheels on the hitch are now. Has to be a combo of the drilled rims and lighter tires. At 44.6lbs I'm pretty happy as I was expecting a 50lb bike.
> 
> Currently trying to set up the total garbage mechanical discs. These levers are total trash and will be upgraded first.
> 
> ...


That is an awesome buy. I am so upset I missed it!


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## Franklee90 (Feb 11, 2017)

I have a mongoose malus bought it from Kmart done went through all components & made some upgrades & modifications I used an E-type front derailleur trigger shifters/brake levers combo Shimano ultus note the E-type front derailleur mounts on bottom bracket


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Weighed the one I assembled at 44lbs 10oz.[/QUOTE]

Wow. I thought they were a bit lighter than that. My Malus weighed 43.1 out of the box. I weighed it 3 times to be sure. Replace grip with Shimano trigger shift. Cut the chain by two links. Removed kickstand and reflectors. Replaced Falcon freewheel with Shimano Megarange(love it). Drilled out both rims. Now waiting on some ultra light tubes and a 45mm stem. I will weigh again after all is done and report.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Great night. 65 degrees


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Can't figure these pics out for the life of me. looks way better in my gallery


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## Franklee90 (Feb 11, 2017)

Who knows something about momentum fat bikes found one for bout $560 at my local bike shop


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

This guy on eBay is selling a Malus with speed vee tires. People say it takes about 10lbs off the weight if upgrading the inner tube as well. He also upgraded to 21 speed with tourney shifters

Look at this on eBay mongoose Malus 21 Speed Vee Tires For Sand,asphalt,dirt | eBay


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Franklee
Well there is a thread on this site. "Giant Fatty for $590". Not sure if you saw it yet. Six pages long, and seems to be still running. Check it out. Just read the whole thing. Extract the info you need and ignore the haters.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Scottster said:


> This guy on eBay is selling a Malus with speed vee tires. People say it takes about 10lbs off the weight if upgrading the inner tube as well. He also upgraded to 21 speed with tourney shifters. 365$ price tag sounds a bit steep
> 
> Look at this on eBay mongoose Malus 21 Speed Vee Tires For Sand,asphalt,dirt | eBay


I got the Malus for 209 to my door. That would put him at a $155 in upgrades. I doubt he put that much into it. He never intended to ride it. He only upgraded to get someone to bite. Don't bite. Buy stock and upgrade according to personal preference. 10 lbs? Hmmmm???

Just actually looked at the link. It's 385. and 21 days left, so it will be more. That's very high. Starts moving into a different price point. That's too high.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

pathfinder67 said:


> I got the Malus for 209 to my door. That would put him at a $155 in upgrades. I doubt he put that much into it. He never intended to ride it. He only upgraded to get someone to bite. Don't bite. Buy stock and upgrade according to personal preference. 10 lbs? Hmmmm???
> 
> Just actually looked at the link. It's 385. and 21 days left, so it will be more. That's very high. Starts moving into a different price point. That's too high.


The link was just for reference. Trying to give people some ideas on removing weight. I doubt somebody would fly out to Puerto Rico for a Malus. Even if it were the most bad ass Malus on the planet.

Also, the seller is not making a profit. Looking at the upgrades done to the bike, he is trying to recover money invested. 
Tires 120$
Crankset 40$
Derailer, shifter, 21 speed upgrade. 50$
Malus 205$

Total investment - 415$ plus tax and shipping if applicable


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

I dropped a little over 7 lbs changing out tires and tubes. Well worth it.


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## Scottster (Feb 8, 2017)

Trying to take weight off a bike can be some of the most expensive upgrades a person can do. If I wanted a light bike Motobecane or Gravity would be the way to go. 

The dolomite has a sturdy steel frame. Thats why I bought it. These are great bikes to mount motors on. After spending 1200$, my Dolly is a Beasty 70lbs. 52v 1000w. Li-ion 35 mile range to cutoff voltage.

My Dolomite 
https://plus.google.com/114863097524180831430/posts/cnWSmdBKpwq


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## Franklee90 (Feb 11, 2017)

The lbs I talked to bout using my E-TYPE front derailleur told me that it wouldn't work but I just proved wrong I'm also using a suntour triple I pulled from a Schwinn along with the seat post & handle bars


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## Franklee90 (Feb 11, 2017)

I had to make a cable stop for the cable sleeve & use zip ties to hold it to the frame


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Pack66 said:


> I dropped a little over 7 lbs changing out tires and tubes. Well worth it.


What tires and tubes did you get?


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Beast in the wild.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> Beast in the wild.


Pixelly


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Yup. Cant figure these damn pics.


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## Polycrono (May 11, 2012)

I read the whole thread. My stepdad invited me to go with Florida with him and told me I could bring a bike. I've got a bullseye monster that the frame fork hubs and spokes are original on. I like it a lot and I'm glad it's where I started. I ordered a dolomite about halfway through my reading, got it Tuesday, and already had parts ready. I put on the lasco crank off the gravity with a raceface NW 32t and a 26t, and a trigger shifter/brake lever off of a diamondback hybrid. Aluminum bars, post, shorter stem. Tektro novela calipers off the gravity I never used. I rode it around with the stock tires and tubes before I swapped them with vee 8s and tubes from the gravity. I was actually pretty impressed with them despite their weight and I'll be bringing them with us in case conditions warrant them. I've never ridden anywhere but here in western Massachusetts and I'm pretty excited about riding fat in the warmth again. I really am very happy with the dolo. Once you're on it you don't notice heavy it is, it's just smiles. It definitely feels more like a cruiser compared to my gravity, which feels like a mountain bike with big tires. I don't know how much it weighs but it's much lighter than the dolo. We leave tomorrow, I can't wait. Knowing the dolo from the thread I'm bringing quite a few tools with me, but I feel like thanks to Canoe, watts888, AZINGER, momikey, and probably some others, I'm well prepared for whatever happens. Thanks to everyone, except the people that only asked about cranksets. I'm pretty sure that was asked on every page. Oh and I thought about trying the BC63L BB out of the gravity, but the spindle was much shorter, and I had some sunlite bearings unused from something else, so I greased it up and put those in. Spins fine for now. Has anyone actually bent their frame for a 170 rear end? I've got the 50mm rims that came on the gravity(way back) and was thinking they'd be great for summer, and casette and nonbendy axle. And they tubeless ok. I don't know if I can post pictures but it pretty much looks like everyone else's dolo. Thanks again everyone I learned a lot! Jacob


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

drdave81 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO9PCU?redirect=true&pldnSite=1
> 
> This is the one that Watts linked a page or two back.
> 
> ...


I was wondering the sizes of front and back for Malus? Thoughts are running around my head for quick release.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

pathfinder67 said:


> I was wondering the sizes of front and back for Malus? Thoughts are running around my head for quick release.


Same as dolo. 135mm front, 190mm rear. QR up front is super easy. Any rear mountain bike axle and QR will work. The rear? keep it as the 190mm threaded or buy a whole new wheel. The hassle of finding a 190mm QR axle and skewer isn't worth it.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Polycrono said:


> Has anyone actually bent their frame for a 170 rear end? I've got the 50mm rims that came on the gravity(way back) and was thinking they'd be great for summer, and casette and nonbendy axle.


I don't remember hearing anybody doing it on this post, but it's a steel frame. You're not going to hurt it. Just have to be careful when bending it to go a little at a time to make sure both sides come in evenly. Follow sheldon brown's procedure for bending a steel frame and it's easy. It's only 1cm per side, so it won't take much. And re-align the dropouts afterwards. Easy with a crescent wrench and some bolts.

I was going to do it, but I ended up buying a BD boris instead of a wheelset. For my height, the dolo was just too short. Fun, but short.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Same as dolo. 135mm front, 190mm rear. QR up front is super easy. Any rear mountain bike axle and QR will work. The rear? keep it as the 190mm threaded or buy a whole new wheel. The hassle of finding a 190mm QR axle and skewer isn't worth it.


Yes. I committed the cardinal sin on this thread. I asked before I read. I saw your post on page 51 regarding someone with a bent axle fix solution and it had the info there. In the process I found this quote referring to Polycrono's question.

"Bends easily without reducing strength and Sheldon Brown did a great writeup on how to bend a steel frame and restraighten the drop outs. And 170mm hubs with 36 spoke holes are much easier to find."

Next time I will read before I ask. Most of the questions have an answer somewhere in here.
Thanks Watts


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## Polycrono (May 11, 2012)

I saw that posted many times, just wondered if anyone had done it here. Maybe I'll be the first. After Florida.

Edit: I guess if someone here had done it I would have read about it.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Good . and keep us posted.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.htmlluck


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Polycrono said:


> I read the whole thread. My stepdad invited me to go with Florida with him and told me I could bring a bike. I've got a bullseye monster that the frame fork hubs and spokes are original on. I like it a lot and I'm glad it's where I started. I ordered a dolomite about halfway through my reading, got it Tuesday, and already had parts ready. I put on the lasco crank off the gravity with a raceface NW 32t and a 26t, and a trigger shifter/brake lever off of a diamondback hybrid. Aluminum bars, post, shorter stem. Tektro novela calipers off the gravity I never used. I rode it around with the stock tires and tubes before I swapped them with vee 8s and tubes from the gravity. I was actually pretty impressed with them despite their weight and I'll be bringing them with us in case conditions warrant them. I've never ridden anywhere but here in western Massachusetts and I'm pretty excited about riding fat in the warmth again. I really am very happy with the dolo. Once you're on it you don't notice heavy it is, it's just smiles. It definitely feels more like a cruiser compared to my gravity, which feels like a mountain bike with big tires. I don't know how much it weighs but it's much lighter than the dolo. We leave tomorrow, I can't wait. Knowing the dolo from the thread I'm bringing quite a few tools with me, but I feel like thanks to Canoe, watts888, AZINGER, momikey, and probably some others, I'm well prepared for whatever happens. Thanks to everyone, except the people that only asked about cranksets. I'm pretty sure that was asked on every page. Oh and I thought about trying the BC63L BB out of the gravity, but the spindle was much shorter, and I had some sunlite bearings unused from something else, so I greased it up and put those in. Spins fine for now. Has anyone actually bent their frame for a 170 rear end? I've got the 50mm rims that came on the gravity(way back) and was thinking they'd be great for summer, and casette and nonbendy axle. And they tubeless ok. I don't know if I can post pictures but it pretty much looks like everyone else's dolo. Thanks again everyone I learned a lot! Jacob


Good luck with the trip, glad you like the bike even with owning a Gravity BEM. Sounds like you can turn a wrench so nothing on this bike should be impossible. Post pics of it when you get down there. Mine is apples to oranges with my FS mountain bike but damn the dolo can climb up anything with the right gearing and enough leg muscle.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

pathfinder67 said:


> Good . and keep us posted.
> 
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.htmlluck


Pathfinder, the only thing worse than your pics are your links!!!

Just kidding,

but nothing is working!


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## Polycrono (May 11, 2012)

If you delete the luck it works. Only problem with that is it only describes spreading the triangle.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

momikey said:


> Pathfinder, the only thing worse than your pics are your links!!!
> 
> Just kidding,
> 
> but nothing is working!


Oh, happy times. Tears are coming out of my eyes.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Desert night ride...Dolo style.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

momikey said:


> Pathfinder, the only thing worse than your pics are your links!!!
> 
> Just kidding,
> 
> but nothing is working!


I can build a house(I know because I have before). I can build a bike(Well I am learning to now anyway)... But my computer skills suck...Always have and always will.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

momikey said:


> Pathfinder, the only thing worse than your pics are your links!!! Just kidding, but nothing is working!


https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attac...fhttps://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Much better. Just some of my many adventures on the Trek and the Malus.
https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I take it all back!

Bike looks good too!


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

:eekster:Thanks. Still a work in progress. Not because it needs much more work, but because this is becoming addictive very quickly.

https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif


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## Speedracer508 (Feb 12, 2013)

been following this thread, First off i want to start by saying my go to ride is my 2013 steel kona honzo that i ride and know i can throw pretty much what ever my body will take. some free ride but mostly all mountain type stuff and love the bike. i say this due to my expectations are low on the dolo. Living in Mass not far from cape cod , id like to use bike as well for fishing along the canal with a rack on back for rod holder . 

i ordered a dolo from walmart for 200 $ shipped to my door coiming this week coming , plans are to put bike together and go weight it on a legit bike scale locally stock. 

my budget on this thing total will be 350 $ range total with bike , change tubes and tires , shifter ect . Then see the difference in weight 

i have a bunch of spare parts from other bikes as well that i will see what i can use , i even have a spare set of bb5 brakes off an older bike i had


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## Speedracer508 (Feb 12, 2013)

parts i have laying around 
crank brothers mallet pedals 
avid bb5 brakes 
set of answer riser bars 
couple of stems 
3-4 saddles from bmx to old mtb 


i went through this thread , i will know on the 21st when it arrives , bit off hand i assume the seat post and handle bars are aluminum ? if not i think i can shed some weight there


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Nice ride you have Speedracer. You will love the Dolo for the beach at the cape and for fishing trips too. Its a work horse. It just keeps rolling over anything. I have the Malus. Same but different. It rolls over sand like nothing. I trail ride on it too. Its even fun on trails. With a 350 price range you will have an awesome bike. I got the Malus for 209 to my door. So far I have put about $50 into it. Now after reading through this thread quite a bit, I am thinking about bending the frame to get to the 170mm range for the rear axle. More options that way. I know I probably could have waited to save more money and get the Gravity BEM or something similar. But I will have a great bike for under 400 when I am done, and I am having a lot more fun this way. Enjoy the riding/building and keep us posted.


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## Speedracer508 (Feb 12, 2013)

thanks , 

biggest thing is my expectations are low , and i didnt get it to ride hard and shred i have a honzo for that . 

figuared i could try it in the snow but more or less put a rack on back with some rod holders. use it to fish the canal at the cape ect 

i personally wasnt going to spend big money on a fatbike just for recreation use , if i was going to be riding it all the time(trails) and didnt have my honzo , then i would


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

Check this out: https://www.walmart.com/ip/TIRES-PA...4598&wl11=online&wl12=146128489&wl13=&veh=sem


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Cruisin the wetlands by my house. Oyster Creek

https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
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https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

pathfinder67 said:


> Cruisin the wetlands by my house. Oyster Creek


The Malus seems to have better geometry then the Dolomite. Is the Malus similar to the Hitch?


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Guapo,
Well I made some personal preference upgrades and a couple of minor mechanical upgrades. But nothing major. She rides smooth and fluid. I am not sure of the specifics, but the geometry for me is almost perfect. I am 6 ft. The only complaint is the stem. It seems to be an issue for some people. It is long on all three. It bothers some peoples back/neck area. For me its my neck. I get some neck pain after a ride. I have a much shorter one on order. I know this will fix the problem because I will ride more upright. The leaning forward with my head up is what does it. But other than that I love it. I haven't measured but the height is nice. Crank placement is perfect for me. The crank arms are the right length. Handlebars are perfect width. They are right around 700mm. The Dolo/Hitch comparison is listed in this thread somewhere. With specifics. From the comparison I saw, I would say the Hitch/Malus are close. I don't get into geometry too much. I just look for a nice smooth ride. But someone here will answer your question better than I can.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

pathfinder67 said:


> Guapo,
> Well I made some personal preference upgrades and a couple of minor mechanical upgrades. But nothing major. She rides smooth and fluid. I am not sure of the specifics, but the geometry for me is almost perfect. I am 6 ft. The only complaint is the stem. It seems to be an issue for some people. It is long on all three. It bothers some peoples back/neck area. For me its my neck. I get some neck pain after a ride. I have a much shorter one on order. I know this will fix the problem because I will ride more upright. The leaning forward with my head up is what does it. But other than that I love it. I haven't measured but the height is nice. Crank placement is perfect for me. The crank arms are the right length. Handlebars are perfect width. They are right around 700mm. The Dolo/Hitch comparison is listed in this thread somewhere. With specifics. From the comparison I saw, I would say the Hitch/Malus are close. I don't get into geometry too much. I just look for a nice smooth ride. But someone here will answer your question better than I can.


I have a Dolomite and my son has a Hitch and I personally like the way the Hitch feels like a larger, more upright bike. I'm for sure going to consider a Malus in the future and I'll give my Dolomite to my youngest son


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

They are all great bikes at this price point. I do some trail riding, but not much. I am more into the XC aspect of riding. I am at the edge of 1,000 square miles of woods. A lot of sand roads/trails, so this bike is a no brainer. Its great on the road and great for exploring and beach riding. I put the Shimano megarange freewheel on for the granny gear and this bike rolls right over sand and goes up almost any hill. I have read on this thread that the geometry for the Malus and Hitch are a little better than the Dolo. So it should be a good move for you. Maybe do some browsing on this thread or type in what you want on google and a lot of times it will bring you to specific discussion from this thread. There are a lot of knowledgeable members here who will eventually answer you as well. I would definitely recommend buying one. I got mine from Academy for 209 delivered. I've had it almost 2 months now and ride it every day. Worth every penny.


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## Dolomitebeast (Feb 21, 2017)

*New to me dolomite loving it!*

Just bought me this Dolomite for $120 off craiglist. Was barely used and I'm enjoying every minute of it. Changed out the handle bars added a bag and rack. I've ordered a ebike kit which should make it a ton of fun.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

So far I have really liked the upgrade on my Malus with the 3x Vuelta front chainring. I didn't think I'd use the large ring at all but have found I prefer using that on roads/paved trails. Yesterday I took it on some woodchipped trails in a park not far from me. Put the chain on the smallest front chainring and had no issues climbing some pretty steep terrain. The bottom of this hills were a combination of mud, melting snow and tons of leaves and the thing plowed right through. If I was on my 29er I am pretty sure I would have been on the ground after the first mud pit.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Repoman. I agree. It rolls over and up just about anything. Took the Malus deep in the Pines yesterday. Found my doorway trail and spent some time on Preacher's Hill.

https://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
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## Honton (Feb 27, 2017)

Hey my #fatbiking friends I feel like I might be bothering you guys, but as a noob, I look up to you guys for help..
Im looking for possible upgrades and ideas to make my dolomite as safe and reliable as I can.What do you guys think of these changes??
Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailer
Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifters
Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel Megarange
Locking handlebar grips
YST Sealed BSA cupset w/Bearings English threads 
FSA Self-extracting crank bolts, JIS-M8


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## drdave81 (Sep 1, 2016)

I did the shifters, megarange, grips and cupset on your list, all good. The derailleur that is on the bike isn't too bad. You don't need the crank bolts since the crank arms are held on by nuts, not bolts. Depending on your riding, you'll want to do something about the brakes, the calipers and levers, they kinda really suck IMO.


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## skota23 (Mar 7, 2011)

Tires are a great upgrade as well, rotational mass makes a big differance


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Honton said:


> Im looking for possible upgrades and ideas to make my dolomite as safe and reliable as I can.What do you guys think of these changes??
> Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailer
> Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifters
> Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel Megarange
> ...


Looks good, basic upgrade stuff. Covered a lot through this thread. 
#1, get alloy brake levers. The stock plastic levers are horrible.

I'd get the 8-speed stuff instead of the 7-speed, but they both work. You can also get the 8-speed shifters with brake levers included for about the same price. And avoid the megarange freewheel if you're going to ride on trails. OK for road/gravel/sand. That last jump is annoying on trail. 8-speed freewheels are easily available in 13-32T count cogs for reliable and even shifts through the range.

The stock rear derailure isn't bad for casual riding, but nothing against upgrading it. Especially if you plan on riding through bouncy stuff.

Don't get the FSA bolts. The YST cups re-use the stock axle, so you're stuck using the stock nuts. If you really want to upgrade the crankset, there are some posts a couple pages back about using a 100mm shell/167mm axle cartridge bottom bracket and shimano m131 crankset.

I've seen pictures of the stock handlebar bending under heavy users. It's steel, and they were big users. Easy to find decent 31.8mm clamp size alloy handlebars and stems for under $20 total. $10 for alloy handlebars that will work with the stock stem.

When the stock brake calipers wear out in time, Shimano mechanical brake calipers if you're cost conscious (~$15-20 each), Shimano hydraulic, or Avid BB7. The stock brakes with decent levers actually were OK when set up well. Shimano mechanical brakes are just a lot better and will work with the acera shifter/brake combo lever.


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## Speedracer508 (Feb 12, 2013)

grease lots of grease


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## Honton (Feb 27, 2017)

I bought the bike off a guy and I think he upgraded some stuff here is what he posted "Mongoose dolomite fat bike 26"x4" tires.
all bearing been cleaned and lubed with Park Tool Polylube.
extended seat post and stem extension.
Very comfortable for people over 6" tall.(I'm 6"5' tall)
comes with Kryptonite u-lock, seat cable lock, small portable air pump, cup holder.
LED headlight and LED taillight.
Li-ion 12v battery pack with charger included.
spare VeeRubber inner tube.
upgraded 203mm disc rotors with Shimano brake calipers and levers.
spare new Shimano brake pads.
Rims been painted over due to original paint flaking off."
And Im looking to change the cranks because IDK if it was me being heavy, mongooses cheap parts or the previous owner didn't tighten it, but my left crank got stripped and came off when I was test riding last night. Rendering my newly purchased used bike useless. So IDK whether to change to a quality crankset or just replace the left crank


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I assume you mean the crank arm feel off the axle in the bottom bracket? In that case, I'd do the origin8 cartridge bearing bottom bracket and Shimano m131 crankset swap. If the crankarm has fallen off once while pedaling, good possibility it's been damaged enough that it will never fit back on properly.

For everything else, I'd just swap to an 8-speed trigger shifter if you'd rather have a trigger shifter. IMO, the stock grip shift worked OK, but I hate grip shifters. Good for big thick heavy gloves though. Trigger shifters don't work when you wear mittens.


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## Honton (Feb 27, 2017)

watts888 said:


> Looks good, basic upgrade stuff. Covered a lot through this thread.
> #1, get alloy brake levers. The stock plastic levers are horrible.
> 
> I'd get the 8-speed stuff instead of the 7-speed, but they both work. You can also get the 8-speed shifters with brake levers included for about the same price. And avoid the megarange freewheel if you're going to ride on trails. OK for road/gravel/sand. That last jump is annoying on trail. 8-speed freewheels are easily available in 13-32T count cogs for reliable and even shifts through the range.
> ...





watts888 said:


> I assume you mean the crank arm feel off the axle in the bottom bracket? In that case, I'd do the origin8 cartridge bearing bottom bracket and Shimano m131 crankset swap. If the crankarm has fallen off once while pedaling, good possibility it's been damaged enough that it will never fit back on properly.
> 
> For everything else, I'd just swap to an 8-speed trigger shifter if you'd rather have a trigger shifter. IMO, the stock grip shift worked OK, but I hate grip shifters. Good for big thick heavy gloves though. Trigger shifters don't work when you wear mittens.


Yeah it was beyond busted. Is the m131 compatible with the dolomite? I don't know much when it comes to compatibility and bikes. I don't like grip shifter at all. I do want triggers because I don't need to worry about using mittens because I live in Cali where snow isn't that big of a problem. Also why an 8 speed instead of the 7?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Other dolomite owners say they've used the M131 with the origin8 bottom bracket without problems. The origin8 bottom bracket is a cartridge bearing bracket, and it is just a better bottom bracket than the adjustable one that comes stock. The M131 also lets you manually change the gearing up front. Small ring if you're riding a lot of hills, middle ring for casual riding, big ring if you're sticking to flat road.

8 speed uses the same shift spacing as 7-speed, so 7 and 8 speed shifters are interchangeable. Using an 8-speed shifter on the stock 7 speed freewheel just means you have an extra unused shift point at the end. Adding an 8-speed freewheel instead of a 7-speed freewheel gives you more gear options. Only problem is minor clearance between the chain and the dropout, but this is easily solved by sticking a washer on the axle.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

Honton said:


> Yeah it was beyond busted. Is the m131 compatible with the dolomite? I don't know much when it comes to compatibility and bikes. I don't like grip shifter at all. I do want triggers because I don't need to worry about using mittens because I live in Cali where snow isn't that big of a problem. Also why an 8 speed instead of the 7?


 Go to page 50 of this thread and see the links I posted for the cranks and bottom bracket that I use on my Dolomite. I also posted pics of my Dolomite on page 50. I'm in Cali also, can't wait for summer time


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Hey guys. As you can see I am really enjoying my Malus. All is good right now but as Watts has said(as well as other posters) its just a matter of time before I start having axle problems in the rear. And I do like to play rough sometimes on this beast. Just weighing some future options. Will the wheel linked below take a freewheel or is conversion to cassette necessary? Looking at both rear wheel sets on that page. I know I would have to bend the frame a little on each side and adjust the drop outs. But I am OK with that. Just wondering if I can use my current freewheel?

On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Keep flipping the axle over in your frame. It'll keep bending back straight and continue to work (until it eventually braeks, but hopefully that should be a long way off).

That 190mm wide hub wheel will fit on the dolo no problem. If you're currently using an 8-speed freewheel, I'd highly recommend grabbing the shimano 11-32 8-speed cassette (sunrace makes a cheaper one about the same quality). It's a good cassette for an 8-speed setup.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Watts
Yes. That is my plan. I read that here in one of your posts. Ends up Bend down. It is fine right now but when it bends I will ride it until it breaks. Also I just checked. It's a no brainer for the sunrace cassette at around 12 bucks a pop. Thanks


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## Honton (Feb 27, 2017)

Guapo613 said:


> Go to page 50 of this thread and see the links I posted for the cranks and bottom bracket that I use on my Dolomite. I also posted pics of my Dolomite on page 50. I'm in Cali also, can't wait for summer time


Thanks so much for all of your guys' help. My updated parts list is
TOPCABIN Double Lock on Locking Bicycle Handlebar Grips

*Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailleur 7/8-Speed SGS Long Cage 
*
Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth


*Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset
*
*BB SET OR8 100x164 P/P XLT SQ STL-CUP
*
*Shimano SL-M310 Acera Shifter Right (8 Speed*
*Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset*


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

pathfinder67 said:


> Hey guys. As you can see I am really enjoying my Malus. All is good right now but as Watts has said(as well as other posters) its just a matter of time before I start having axle problems in the rear. And I do like to play rough sometimes on this beast. Just weighing some future options. Will the wheel linked below take a freewheel or is conversion to cassette necessary? Looking at both rear wheel sets on that page. I know I would have to bend the frame a little on each side and adjust the drop outs. But I am OK with that. Just wondering if I can use my current freewheel?
> 
> On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel


If you are getting those rims, spend the extra money and get an 8 speed cassette for it. The only real reason to use a freewheel is because that is what the Malus wheelset accepts.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

Repoman14 said:


> If you are getting those rims, spend the extra money and get an 8 speed cassette for it. The only real reason to use a freewheel is because that is what the Malus wheelset accepts.


Agreed. Already checked out the sunrace cassette for 12 bucks a pop. Its a no brainer. 
Thanks


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Repoman14 said:


> So far I have really liked the upgrade on my Malus with the 3x Vuelta front chainring. I didn't think I'd use the large ring at all but have found I prefer using that on roads/paved trails. Yesterday I took it on some woodchipped trails in a park not far from me. Put the chain on the smallest front chainring and had no issues climbing some pretty steep terrain. The bottom of this hills were a combination of mud, melting snow and tons of leaves and the thing plowed right through. If I was on my 29er I am pretty sure I would have been on the ground after the first mud pit.


Just got a slighly used Schwinn Biggity (Malus clone?) for my brother off local classifieds for $150. New is $400 with tax around here.

Surprised to find ChaoYang 4" (FBN clones) tires on it as these usually are 1400-1500g each. I don't have the bike at my place, so can't take it apart and find out, but does anyone know if these are the same tpi/weight tire? I can mount brand new 120tpi Vee Mission and Vee8, but these CY tires would have more bite on snow so if they are under 2000g, I'd keep them. Also anyone know weight of stock tubes. I could get 26x2.4-2.7 365g HD tubes in for $9 each.

Again, can't check whats in there right now, but would like to get this thing fixed up for snow trail riding on the cheap asap. I will go through this thread later this weekend to do some research. I have some ideas as I helped a friend finish up Ironhorse Dolomite build last year. Tube/tire swap alone was like 8lbs on that thing.

Another nice surprise was this bike comes with Tektro Auriga caliper on the back, no name on the front. Rear one feels great, front could be better. I may get Avid FR5 levers for $10 a pair eventually, just to get a nicer feel.

Most importantly I want to get the gearing right. With the Dolo with got 13-34 8speed freewheel, Acera mech, Altus 8 speed shifter, KMC chain, and while much better than stock, still not great for snowy trails. This one has strickter budget so I'm thinking Vuelta crank for $35 and shorten original chain is all I would need? Straight bolt on after taking off big ring and keeping 32/22T? I would just manual shift to granny when needed. Do I need longer chainring bolts? If I feel spendy I may get Altus trigger shiter for under $20.

Lastly down the road I may pickup some takeoff wider alloy handlebars and shorter stem, maybe alloy seatpost and nicer pedals.

Does it have 27.2 or 30.9 seat post diameter?

Anyone ever figured out geo #s?


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## Franklee90 (Feb 11, 2017)

kryten said:


> Just got a slighly used Schwinn Biggity (Malus clone?) for my brother off local classifieds for $150. New is $400 with tax around here.
> 
> Surprised to find ChaoYang 4" (FBN clones) tires on it as these usually are 1400-1500g each. I don't have the bike at my place, so can't take it apart and find out, but does anyone know if these are the same tpi/weight tire? I can mount brand new 120tpi Vee Mission and Vee8, but these CY tires would have more bite on snow so if they are under 2000g, I'd keep them. Also anyone know weight of stock tubes. I could get 26x2.4-2.7 365g HD tubes in for $9 each.
> 
> ...


I have an E-type front derailleur for sale if you would like to buy it I'm currently using one on my bike but have on extra of you want it


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

Since its the same frame as the Malus, the seatpost is likely 28.6. If you aren't adding a front derailleur, no need to even take the large chaining off. It can serve 2 purposes - a bash ring/guard for the smaller rings in case you bottom out on a rock or a large ring for riding on paved surfaces.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Repoman14 said:


> Since its the same frame as the Malus, the seatpost is likely 28.6. If you aren't adding a front derailleur, no need to even take the large chaining off. It can serve 2 purposes - a bash ring/guard for the smaller rings in case you bottom out on a rock or a large ring for riding on paved surfaces.


I will be ordering the Vuelta Comp crankset. Just want to make sure it is the right p/n everyone is successfully using. Down side 1-3 months delivery time.

https://www.amazon.ca/Vuelta-815002...0081UV654/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Anything else I need to worry about, or is it just unbolt old, bolt on new, possibly shorten chain a link or two if only using 32/22T or get a longer chain if using 42T as well?

Good point about the big ring. Also was not aware you could mount front mech on these. Will have to research e-type mechs, but ok with manual shift tbh.

28.6 is an oddball size, isn't it? I may just leave it alone then...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If I was going to order a new crank, I'd get the shimano one knowing that it will work with the origin8 100x167 cartridge bottom bracket. In time, the stock bottom bracket will need removed/replaced. Not sure if the vuelta comp crankset will clear with the origin8 BB, but the shimano one has been tested.


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

kryten said:


> I will be ordering the Vuelta Comp crankset. Just want to make sure it is the right p/n everyone is successfully using. Down side 1-3 months delivery time.
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Vuelta-815002...0081UV654/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
> 
> ...


You have to use a Problem Solver if you want a front derailleur. There are a few people on here who have done it.

The seat post size is odd, but but it's pretty easy to find 28.6 posts, especially online. My 
LBS has all kinds of older random stuff so I had no problem swapping the steel one with a new alloy one.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> The Shimano Acera M361 will work with the Origin8 100x164 bottom bracket on the Dolomite





watts888 said:


> If I was going to order a new crank, I'd get the shimano one knowing that it will work with the origin8 100x167 cartridge bottom bracket. In time, the stock bottom bracket will need removed/replaced. Not sure if the vuelta comp crankset will clear with the origin8 BB, but the shimano one has been tested.





Repoman14 said:


> You have to use a Problem Solver if you want a front derailleur. There are a few people on here who have done it.
> 
> The seat post size is odd, but but it's pretty easy to find 28.6 posts, especially online. My
> LBS has all kinds of older random stuff so I had no problem swapping the steel one with a new alloy one.


Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?

Shimano Acera M361 Triple Chainset Square Taper | Chain Reaction Cycles

As for front derailleur, looks like either DP0930 or DP0910 would work, but from a bit of reading, seems like I would have still have to fabricate a spacer to get the derailleur into the right position so if this is correct, I will pass on that and manual shift.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

kryten said:


> Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?


Looks to be the same ones mentioned here. I'd get the 170mm length ones, just in case.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-50.html#post12791303


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

kryten said:


> Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?
> 
> Shimano Acera M361 Triple Chainset Square Taper | Chain Reaction Cycles
> 
> As for front derailleur, looks like either DP0930 or DP0910 would work, but from a bit of reading, seems like I would have still have to fabricate a spacer to get the derailleur into the right position so if this is correct, I will pass on that and manual shift.


You just need one of these to get the direct mount front derailleur into the correct position

Problem Solvers


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

watts888 said:


> Looks to be the same ones mentioned here. I'd get the 170mm length ones, just in case.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-50.html#post12791303


Perfect, I was planing to get the 170 if it fits.

Do I want to get the YST cup set, or the Origin 8 BB, or leave it the way it is for now? Prices shipped to Canada seem to be a lot higher for all options.



Repoman14 said:


> You just need one of these to get the direct mount front derailleur into the correct position
> 
> Problem Solvers


Awesome! Thanks for the link.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

If you're swapping cranks, I'd swap out to the origin8 bottom bracket now. You'll need to take the original axle and cup/cones out anyway to clean them, and since the YST cups are the same price as the origin8, I'd rather have the ease of maintenance/installation with a cartridge bottom bracket.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

kryten said:


> Perfect, I was planing to get the 170 if it fits.
> 
> Do I want to get the YST cup set, or the Origin 8 BB, or leave it the way it is for now? Prices shipped to Canada seem to be a lot higher for all options.
> 
> Awesome! Thanks for the link.


The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

watts888 said:


> If you're swapping cranks, I'd swap out to the origin8 bottom bracket now. You'll need to take the original axle and cup/cones out anyway to clean them, and since the YST cups are the same price as the origin8, I'd rather have the ease of maintenance/installation with a cartridge bottom bracket.


It is about $15 vs $37 shipped for me to Canada, YST vs Origin 8, but I agree, I'll rather do it once and be done, just don't want to order parts that won't work together.



Guapo613 said:


> The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus


Did you mean 100x164? Or is there longer one available somewhere. This is what I found so far.

https://www.amazon.ca/SET-OR8-100x1...rds=BB+SET+OR8+100x164+P/P+XLT+SQ+STL-CUP+ENG

I will have access to the bike this week and will measure bb shell on Biggitty/Malus with digital caliper.

Also, and I realize I may understand this wrong, with the Origin 8 being shorter spindle, would I be able to use 32/22 rings? Would not 22T be too far inward and therefore when used chain will be rubbing rear tire? 32T may be fine, but not the best chain line still? So with this setup would best way be to swap outer 42T with 30T 104bcd ring (extra $) which would be the smallest I can bolt on the outer position?

With YST cups and original spindle, Shimano 361 crank, I could take off 42T and leave 32/22T with reasonable chain line and no rub?

Basically, just want to convert to 32T/22T combo reliably and on a budget. I still need to buy some tools to do the job. I will shift manually for now.

Just want to clarify things and make sure I understand this correctly.

I can order Vuelta or Shimano 361 crank, YST cupset or Origin 8 bb so just want to know which combinations is best for what I want to accomplish and would be straight bolt on without any issues.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus


Looks like Biggitty/Malus has 110mm shell as well. I tried with a digital caliper, but could not get 100% accurate measurement because of the bash guard is somewhat in the way, but it looked like it should be about 110mm shell.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

kryten said:


> Looks like Biggitty/Malus has 110mm shell as well. I tried with a digital caliper, but could not get 100% accurate measurement because of the bash guard is somewhat in the way, but it looked like it should be about 110mm shell.


I personally was going to take 5mm off of each side of the shell on my son's Malus so that I would have more options as far as bottom bracket/crankset go


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

This thread needs a picture and a post. Ocotillo in bloom.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Desert sunsets...


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

*Update* I found this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/hig...id=0d0213b6-398c-4191-9b5c-2ca3a5af7238&tpp=1 .The 100mm x 177mm bottom bracket is a better fit for the Dolomite. I took 9 days to get to my house and its perfect. This will solve any clearance issues that you may have with chain stays on the Dolomite.

I'll post pics later


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## mabrodis (Oct 19, 2005)

Guapo613 said:


> *Update* I found this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/hig...id=0d0213b6-398c-4191-9b5c-2ca3a5af7238&tpp=1 .The 100mm x 177mm bottom bracket is a better fit for the Dolomite. I took 9 days to get to my house and its perfect. This will solve any clearance issues that you may have with chain stays on the Dolomite.
> 
> I'll post pics later


Interested to see the pics. Nice find!


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

I got the Costco version a few weeks ago and have been discovering how week my bicycle toolkit is. I took apart the front wheel hub to find a rust bubble in the bearing race. The face for the brake disc wasn't lined up too, so the disc is always going to rub somewhere. Fortunately I have a 1500W electric hub wheel on the way to replace it. I also have a 203mm rotor and adapter that greatly improved braking power, and I'm looking forward to trying it on the new wheel. 

I also have a shock seat post and gel seat laying around that's now on this bike. 

YST bottom bracket bearings should be installed tomorrow.

I'll also be installing a rear rack. I want to take some long rides on this thing, and because I live in the desert, I'll need to be able to carry lots of water. 

I haven't broken open the rear wheel hub yet, but I already ordered new bearings since the ones in the front wheel were looking and feeling less than spherical. 

I'm not too upset. It's a cheap bike, and I expected to get what I paid for. It should be a fun bike once I have things sorted.


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## spf808 (Mar 7, 2016)

Has anyone successfully used the Origin8 100x167 cartidge bottom bracket on a Malus? Would you say this setup is substantially more durable than a stock drivetrain with YST bearing cups? Most importantly, does anyone have the part number or direct link to the Origin8 part?


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

spf808 said:


> Has anyone successfully used the Origin8 100x167 cartidge bottom bracket on a Malus? Would you say this setup is substantially more durable than a stock drivetrain with YST bearing cups? Most importantly, does anyone have the part number or direct link to the Origin8 part?


The Malus has a 110mm bottom bracket I believe. If that is the case, this is what you need: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-...2793786920.html?spm=2114.40010508.4.33.fWRLLH


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## pete123 (May 27, 2017)

Hi!
This is my first post.
I just got this bike off ebay (germany) for 225€. It seems to be pretty identical to the mongoose dolomite, but it has an alloy frame, stem, handlebar, seatpost and crank! The front and rear hub and headset bearings were too tight. Fork is a little bent. Weld looks solid. I will keep you updated, as soon as i put some miles on it. 3x9-speed is intended. May take some weeks, though.
Awesome thread so far! 
Lots of great ideas and intructions.


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## spf808 (Mar 7, 2016)

Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.

I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.


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## Guapo613 (Aug 21, 2016)

spf808 said:


> Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.
> 
> I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.


The Dolomite, Hitch and Malus use a freewheel style and not a cassette style.


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## xenologer (Nov 1, 2016)

spf808 said:


> Sorry if this a noob question, but is a cassette part of the freewheel or are they two different systems? I tried to read up on the internet but I've come across conflicting info.
> 
> I just bought a megarange for my Malus but haven't installed it yet. I'm considering returning it and going the 8 speed 11-32 route instead.


Cassette and Freewheel are completely different systems
and they are not interchangeable
freewheels do not come in 11-32. the 11tooth high gear is simply too small to physically fit on a freewheel. 15 is the usual limit on these.
Additionally they are Usually only 7 speed, a few are 8 but these are unusual and may not fit.

Cassettes are definitely better, both for durability and gear options.
But since the systems are integrated into the wheel hub, upgrading is extremely costly.

learn more here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html


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## spf808 (Mar 7, 2016)

Thanks, that was helpful guys. Sometimes I need things spelled out for me. I don't have the luxury to buy parts that might .ot fit or work with my setup.


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## elpuru (Jun 2, 2017)

Hey guys! I just owed my first bike/dolomite. Im currently in the process of painting the bike to my like and comfort. Im in a tight spot now trying to choose a different handle bar and seating for the bike. I had me mind to have a hydraulic seat pole for a smoother ride even though the tires will issues that sort of help but I'm looking to advance the bike to my liking. I will upload photos one day to shout you all I'm getting my hands into.


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## elpuru (Jun 2, 2017)

Where did you manage to get your seat post?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

elpuru said:


> Where did you manage to get your seat post?


I got a Kalloy one off ebay for $18. It worked OK, and was better than some I've used. Just came across this earlier today when looking for my kid's bike. Cheap $10 gamble. If anybody gets one, post how it is.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CPBLLW


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## Repoman14 (Jun 1, 2014)

elpuru said:


> Hey guys! I just owed my first bike/dolomite. Im currently in the process of painting the bike to my like and comfort. Im in a tight spot now trying to choose a different handle bar and seating for the bike. I had me mind to have a hydraulic seat pole for a smoother ride even though the tires will issues that sort of help but I'm looking to advance the bike to my liking. I will upload photos one day to shout you all I'm getting my hands into.


I'd recommend buying a cheap stem and upgrading to 31.8mm handlebars. I waited for a sale on Nashbar and bought these:

Nashbar Black Ops Flat Mountain Handlebar

and used this cheap but durable stem:
Mountain Bicycle Road Bike Handlebar Stem Aluminum Alloy 1 1/8" 31.8mm Black | eBay


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Found this bottom bracket in my Costco version. It had sealed bearings. I was going to install the YST kit, but wouldn't sticking with this be better? If not, I'm going to have to try harder at pulling the axle out.



http://imgur.com/zGsiQ


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> The Malus has a 110mm bottom bracket I believe. If that is the case, this is what you need: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-...2793786920.html?spm=2114.40010508.4.33.fWRLLH


So the 110x167 from this link is confirmed to fit on Malus? Planning to add Vuelta crankset too.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Guapo613 said:


> The Malus has a 110mm bottom bracket I believe. If that is the case, this is what you need: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Fat-...2793786920.html?spm=2114.40010508.4.33.fWRLLH





kryten said:


> So the 110x167 from this link is confirmed to fit on Malus? Planning to add Vuelta crankset too.


Ordered 110x167 bottom bracket and Vuelta 175mm crankset for Biggity DLX (Malus). Will see what happens.

What bottom bracket tool do I need to do this job?


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

It has been a long time, but I'm finally riding my bike again. Today was the first ride as an electric bike. The 203mm disc brakes harder than before, but I want more with less travel and effort, so I'll order hydraulic brakes. I could have had an accident on today's trial ride when the rear tire came off the bead. I'm hoping that's due to poor installation on my part rather than poor quality of the wheel or tire because that's something I can address before the weekend.



kryten said:


> Ordered 110x167 bottom bracket and Vuelta 175mm crankset for Biggity DLX (Malus). Will see what happens.
> 
> What bottom bracket tool do I need to do this job?


It looks like you'd need a tool like this to remove the bottom bracket. 
https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicycle-Shimano-Bracket-Removal/dp/B00811WQJS/

Have you removed your pedals? Those use another tool. I bought mine from a lbs, but I think this would work too. One of the reviewers said it worked on his Dolomite.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

leaftye said:


> It has been a long time, but I'm finally riding my bike again. Today was the first ride as an electric bike. The 203mm disc brakes harder than before, but I want more with less travel and effort, so I'll order hydraulic brakes. I could have had an accident on today's trial ride when the rear tire came off the bead. I'm hoping that's due to poor installation on my part rather than poor quality of the wheel or tire because that's something I can address before the weekend.
> 
> It looks like you'd need a tool like this to remove the bottom bracket.
> https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bicycle-Shimano-Bracket-Removal/dp/B00811WQJS/
> ...


I do have pedal wrench, just not crank puller, bb lockring wrench and bb removal tool yet.

Also curious if this has a chance to work on these bikes with Vuelta crankset. E type LX mech?

Shimano LX Front Mech E-Type 9sp M580 | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Got the Vuelta mounted on the stock BB, still waiting for the 110x167 bb to arrive.

If I get an 8 speed shifter, as long as I correctly set rear derailleur limit screws, I can use it without issue and have one unused click on the shifter, correct? If that is true, might as well get an 8 speed shifter in case I want to get 8 speed freewheel down the road.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

What 8 speed freewheel are you planning on? I have a DNP Epoch that I'm planning to install tonight.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Not sure yet, as it won't be in this round of upgrades. Was considering either 13-32 Sunrace or 13-34 Sunrace (not Alpine) whichever I can get here. Was just on their web and they do have 9 and 10 speed freewheels available. Would these still work with proper shifter and derailleur on this bike?

I noticed DNP Epoch freewheels, I was not sure if 11T would work on these bikes. If it does that would be awesome, more expensive than Sunrace but would go that route for sure.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

The DNP Epoch freewheel works in all gears. I just took it for a very brief test ride. Right now it seems to shift less fluidly than the original freewheel, and I'm going to try more adjustments to improve shift quality. It gets close to the tire, so those with wider tires and wheels may not be able to use this freewheel.

The low gear works pretty well as a granny gear now. I'll need to wait until later today to test the 11T gear at 30mph.

I have it paired with the Shimano ST-EF51. I was looking for a brake/shifter combo to free up space on the handlebar. I really need to post some pictures.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

I did about 25 miles today with the DNP Epoch freewheel. It performed nearly flawlessly. There were a couple times where it took a few teeth to go up a gear somewhere in the mid gears, but it did go. I'm sure that's due to my adjustments. The highest 34T gear still feels a little slower, but that could be all in my head.

Bottom line is that it did what I wanted. The 34T is the granny gear I've been wanting, and I can still spin at 40mph with the 11T.

The only bummer is that the shifter doesn't quite clear my throttle, so I had to move the shifter a half inch to the left instead of butting against the throttle. I'm going to get a left handed throttle anyway because downshifting is tough to manage while staying on the throttle. It's doable, but I still want the shifter closer to the grip.

Here's how the bike is currently sitting.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Do any of you guys know how to disassemble the kickstand? The shaft on mine bent, and I want to get it fixed.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Oh well, kickstand came off. I still like having a kickstand for commuting and doing errands, so I'll try Luna's fat bike kickstand.

I installed hydraulic brakes on 203mm discs up front, and screwed that up. It was spaced out too far, and wore out the lower part of the pads. I've lowered them, but I may have to get new pads and disc to get it to 100%. 

The rear caliper and disc was replaced today with a Shimano mechanical caliper and 180mm disc. The old ones had plenty of power, but I couldn't get them to stop squealing. Because replacement pads were nearly as much as new calipers, I sprung for the upgrade. The new calipers uses less expensive pads with roughly twice the surface area.

I'm having a hell of a time finding a good way to mount a rear light. The combination of rear rack and fat tire are limiting options. Seat post mount doesn't work because the rack hides it. Rear rack mount doesn't work because the adapter hits the tire. For now I've mounted a light on the left seat stay, but that won't work when I use both panniers. 

Mounting the front tire is still giving me issues. I used the zip tie trick, which improved things greatly, but it still isn't perfect. These tires are almost done, and hopefully this issue goes away with new tires.


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## TheRealJonnyD (May 24, 2017)

*Dolomite, the remix.*

I present to you, my Dolomite.















Frame: Dolomite
Fork: Vinson
Bars: Generic carbon fiber 660mm
Stem: Wake BMX style
Headset: AEST sealed bearing
Seat: Gav1n
Seatpost: EVO 400mm
Wheels: Vinson
Tires: Chaoyang 26x4.9
Tubes: QTubes 2.3 superlight
Cassette: Sunrace 8spd 11-42t
Crankset: Vuelta MTB comp 175, setup for 1x with Snail 30t narrow-wide, k-pedc alloy pedals
BB: AliExpress no-name 100x177 sealed
Rear Derailleur: cheapo Tourney TY300, extended range with Chinese no-name tailhook
Shifter: Sunlite 8spd/brake lever combo
Brakes: Front, Avid Elixir 1 and G3 203mm rotor. Back Avid BB7 and G3 203mm rotor

Weighed in at 39lbs in full trim. I had to slightly manipulate the chainstays for the 4.9 tires. My buddy Mike @ Capital Region Customs (upstate NY) powdercoated the frame/fork for me in prismatic powders H.D. teal over heavy silver. I couldn't be happier.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Sweet bike, I like everything about it! Just researched that BB that you posted, I might order that one before winter gets here, does it change the Q-factor at all or are your feet just as far apart as the stock BB.

Nice work.


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## TheRealJonnyD (May 24, 2017)

momikey said:


> Sweet bike, I like everything about it! Just researched that BB that you posted, I might order that one before winter gets here, does it change the Q-factor at all or are your feet just as far apart as the stock BB.
> 
> Nice work.


Thanks man! I've put some serious work into this thing and a bit of money, but I'm still happy I did.








Spindle width is very close to stock. It spins very smooth, too. I'd definitely recommend it. I think I paid around ~$20 shipped and it arrived in about 15 days.

-JD


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

TheRealJonnyD said:


> Thanks man! I've put some serious work into this thing and a bit of money, but I'm still happy I did.
> 
> View attachment 1153720
> 
> ...


Nice bike! I've been looking at a few parts from AliExpress... which party's would you order again? How do you like the Wake stem? I've thought about aluminum bars from AE, but I think I'll go carbon from XMCarbonspeed instead.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Looking at this bike again this morning and I'm tempted to ask one of the guys in the Vinson thread to sell me their stock set of wheels if they've upgraded. Also did you notice a difference with the fork, I kinda love my Dolo in the snow so I never thought about a fork swap.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Ok, so I have AliExpress 110x167 bottom bracket here for the Malus and a brand new Deore LX E-type derailleur for $5. It was listed as dual pull when I ordered, but the packaging it came in has bottom pull on it. I also picked up Altus SL-M310 front shifter as well. Already have Vuelta crankset installed on the stock BB for the time being.

I'm assuming derailleur will mount to the frame as pictured, correct? What else is needed to make this work? I was looking at some problem solvers cable guides and cable stops etc. What would be the best way and most economical to get this done? I can still return unopened Altus shifter if this is gonna turn into a nightmare and too much expense and be out $5 for the mech. I will put in sealed BB in either way.


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## TheRealJonnyD (May 24, 2017)

momikey said:


> Looking at this bike again this morning and I'm tempted to ask one of the guys in the Vinson thread to sell me their stock set of wheels if they've upgraded. Also did you notice a difference with the fork, I kinda love my Dolo in the snow so I never thought about a fork swap.


The vinson fork is quite a bit lighter and has slightly more axle to crown height, so the tire clearance is better. These Chaoyang 26 x 4.9s are F'n massive, so the clearance is appreciated. I didn't really notice too much difference in handling, but it's not very stiff. If a carbon fork pops up for cheap I'll likely swap it out.

All in all, out of my random assortment of 15 or so bikes -- this one is my favorite. It started as a stock, $125 Craigslist special and turned into something great (to me lol).


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## Log Home (Jul 15, 2017)

TheRealJonnyD said:


> I present to you, my Dolomite.
> View attachment 1153711
> 
> View attachment 1153712
> ...


Nice bike. How did you manipulate the chainstays for the bigger tires?


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## red94yj (Sep 5, 2011)

That is a good looking bike. Is that weight a typo? Everything is lighter than stock and it only saved 6 lbs.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

What's up Fatboys?

Haven't posted since back in March. The Malus is still riding like new and haven't made any upgrades since my last post due to finances. But it is still shifting smoothly and I am still rocking those stock Chinese tires. I don't know if I will change them. They seem to perform really well in deep sand and climbing as well. Those are my two biggest obstacle in this area. Weight of the tires has not been an issue at all. Also control has never been an issue either. Don't ask me how many miles are on it, because I just get on and ride. Not a strava or gps guy. Been real busy lately but still find time to ride the local trails. Mostly pavement thru the summer due to ticks here in the pines. Still loving this bike after 8 months and a lot of miles. I am not a jumper when I ride so I can't give you any advice on that. But I ride a lot of hilly trails with endless stumps for some fast bumpy rides. The bike has held up well. Rear axle still holding up too. About to start hitting the trails again. Will keep you posted and pics to come soon. Ride fat my friends.


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## pathfinder67 (Nov 26, 2016)

and btw. RealJohnny. Great job Looks Awesome!!!


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## red94yj (Sep 5, 2011)

Has anybody converted a hitch to single speed? Just thinking about it.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Can someone confirm which bottom bracket from AliExpress works with the malus? The last few pages mention a 100x177 sealed bottom bracket which seems too wide for the malus and then someone else bought a 110x167 sealed bottom bracket but he never posted pics with everything installed. I replaced my huffy frame with a 2017 malus frame and I love it, just need that bb replaced. Thanks.


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## theWrathofKhan (Jun 21, 2016)

Luis_fx35 said:


> Can someone confirm which bottom bracket from AliExpress works with the malus? The last few pages mention a 100x177 sealed bottom bracket which seems too wide for the malus and then someone else bought a 110x167 sealed bottom bracket but he never posted pics with everything installed. I replaced my huffy frame with a 2017 malus frame and I love it, just need that bb replaced. Thanks.


I was told this 110mm here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fat...32793786920.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.8WZ3yb


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## DirtyHun (Jan 9, 2011)

This is a very cool thread.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Thanks, I'll post some pics later today


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## highspeedgt (Oct 23, 2017)

I just joined the forum, however I remember looking at this post YEARS ago when I was looking to buy my fat bike. Ended up with a Mongoose Hitch, which has gone through some major changes since it's initial purchase!

I actually recently started a YouTube page, and the first few videos featured my Hitch. If you're interested, have a look and let me know what you think.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHHbBYZi_g4AsBkDzdr2Djg

I just got some new camera gear, and am almost done revamping my workshop so that I can make higher quality videos. If anyone wants to see a "How to" video of upgrades I've done, or any other videos, feel free to let me know.

Anyways... Here's my beauty!


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

highspeedgt said:


> I just joined the forum, however I remember looking at this post YEARS ago when I was looking to buy my fat bike. Ended up with a Mongoose Hitch, which has gone through some major changes since it's initial purchase!
> 
> I actually recently started a YouTube page, and the first few videos featured my Hitch. If you're interested, have a look and let me know what you think.
> 
> ...


That is a great looking bike. I'm just finishing building up Malus for my brother for winter. Should be right around $350CAD all finished. Very similar upgrades to yours so far.

Subscribed to your channel. Funny, was just helping my friend paint garage floor in his new house a day before you posted that video.


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## highspeedgt (Oct 23, 2017)

kryten said:


> That is a great looking bike. I'm just finishing building up Malus for my brother for winter. Should be right around $350CAD all finished. Very similar upgrades to yours so far.
> 
> Subscribed to your channel. Funny, was just helping my friend paint garage floor in his new house a day before you posted that video.


Awesome, and thanks for the sub! I was initially looking for a Malus, but I could never seem to catch one at a good price. I actually snagged this Hitch on Black Friday for $135!!!

The weather here has been a bit crummy the past week or so, so I figured I'd revamp my workshop. Just finished it up yesterday and did a review of my CO-OP hardtail in the new workspace.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Hey guys, wondering if anyone knows if the Dolomite’s headtube is capable to take the cane creak EC 44/40 conversion headset to accept Tapered forks?


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## SteeleRyder (Oct 16, 2017)

Waiting on my hitch to arrive I’ve already ordered some upgraded parts has anyone recently ordered from amazon and had any issues once it was received anything in particular I should be looking out for? I’ve read pretty much through all of this thread but things have changed over the years so I’m unsure on what to expect. I’m a real beginner haven’t rode a bike since my early teens (bmx) days so this is going to be an adventure. I want to do some trails but most likely I’ll be rural riding street/woods depending on Wheather. I was on a pretty tight budget not wanting to dump too much money in until I’m sure I’m going to actually use whatever bike I picked up. Has anyone updated the suspension on the solo or hitch?


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Don’t ride it, re-adjust and re-grease the hubs or permanent damage will occur because the hubs and headset are over tighten from factory. If you don’t have cone wrenches or the proper tools take it to a local bike shop and tell them to adjust the hubs and headset. Upgrade little by little to shed some weight over time. The Luna Lander suspension fork will fit because it is a straight steerer and has quick release dropouts which fit the bike hubs. You will fall in love with this bike, have fun and enjoy 👍😁.


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## SteeleRyder (Oct 16, 2017)

Question which hyraulic brake system has been used is it the Shimano M315 800mm and rear 1450mm? It’s available on Amazon... 

Also thinking of getting a Shimano Altus or the SRAM X1 BB30 crankset.. any one have recommendations


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## highspeedgt (Oct 23, 2017)

SteeleRyder said:


> Question which hyraulic brake system has been used is it the Shimano M315 800mm and rear 1450mm? It's available on Amazon...
> 
> Also thinking of getting a Shimano Altus or the SRAM X1 BB30 crankset.. any one have recommendations


Yes, I have the M315 800mm/1450mm on my Hitch, which I got off Amazon. You'll have to shorten the rear hose, because it's about 8 inches too long. You'll also need to find a way to secure it to the frame, because it won't fit inside the top tube cable stays.


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## highspeedgt (Oct 23, 2017)

SteeleRyder said:


> Waiting on my hitch to arrive I've already ordered some upgraded parts has anyone recently ordered from amazon and had any issues once it was received anything in particular I should be looking out for? I've read pretty much through all of this thread but things have changed over the years so I'm unsure on what to expect. I'm a real beginner haven't rode a bike since my early teens (bmx) days so this is going to be an adventure. I want to do some trails but most likely I'll be rural riding street/woods depending on Wheather. I was on a pretty tight budget not wanting to dump too much money in until I'm sure I'm going to actually use whatever bike I picked up. Has anyone updated the suspension on the solo or hitch?


This is an awesome bike to get back into riding! I agree with Luis_fx35 that the hubs, and in my case bottom bracket and headset need to be cleaned, greased, and adjusted before any riding occurs. They are poorly setup out of the box.

I haven't done any suspension upgrades, and I ride this thing hard. I have done several other upgrades though. I cover them all in one of my recent videos. Have a look if you're interested.


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## SteeleRyder (Oct 16, 2017)

Thanks I’m going to add those to my next order! I haven’t assembled my hitch yet, just got it last night. Once I do I’ll have it ran through by my local shop cause I don’t have everything I need. Or should I just order a basic bike mechanic tool kit and do it myself I’m pretty sure I can get mostly all the tools I need for what I’m going to pay someone to do a full run through. What’s your thoughts? Is it worth having a professional run through it?


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## highspeedgt (Oct 23, 2017)

SteeleRyder said:


> Thanks I'm going to add those to my next order! I haven't assembled my hitch yet, just got it last night. Once I do I'll have it ran through by my local shop cause I don't have everything I need. Or should I just order a basic bike mechanic tool kit and do it myself I'm pretty sure I can get mostly all the tools I need for what I'm going to pay someone to do a full run through. What's your thoughts? Is it worth having a professional run through it?


That depends on your confidence level and desire to work on the bike. I am a huge advocate of doing my own bike work, and having the tools is a huge bonus down the road for any additional repairs. I'm confident that you can get all the tools to make these adjustments for less (probably substantially less) than paying a bike mechanic.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Did anybody mount Snowshoe XL 4.8" tires on the Malus? Wondering if these fit.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Tried to install sealed 110x167mm bottom bracket on the Malus I got from AliExpress earlier this year and while it fits and both Vuelta crank arms (converted to bash guard/32/22T) clear chain stays without issue, spindle on the drive side sticks out less than on the non drive side meaning chain will rub tire in the easiest gear on freewheel and 22T up front. I'm guessing I can't install this bottom bracket from non drive side with the cup on drive side as it does not want to thread in...?

























Original axle is 175mm long, so what are my options at this point apart from ordering YST cup set?


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## SteeleRyder (Oct 16, 2017)

Finally got everything assembled with a few upgrades and I must say... the hitch is a very nice ride! Everything came in as it should have upgraded to rapid fire shifter and mega range free wheel of course had to update the grips next upgrade is the seat cause it’s killing me.... lol.. I’m a big guy 6’0 370 and it’s rough... bike handles my weight great.. can’t say it’s a breeze uphill I’ve only had 3 short rides and well I’ve felt everyone of them afterwards. I ride motorcycles and for the most part I’m very athletic even at my weight so maneuvering is no big deal even did some jumps nonthing too much just seeing how it would up...


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Reasembled everything with original unsealed bottom bracket cups, packed with tons of grease though. Will most likely get the YST sealed cup set especially as this is a winter snow bike if only I could find it somewhere for 'reasonable price'. Shipped to Canada from Amazon or ebay is over $40 CAD and on our own wonderful Amazon.ca it is $66 + shipping, wtf? That is just outrageous.


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## headwind (Sep 30, 2004)

kryten said:


> Resembled everything with original unsealed bottom bracket cups, packed with tons of grease though. Will most likely get the YST sealed cup set especially as this is a winter snow bike if only I could find it somewhere for 'reasonable price'. Shipped to Canada from Amazon or ebay is over $40 CAD and on our own wonderful Amazon.ca it is $66 + shipping, wtf? That is just outrageous.


Where did you buy one of these bikes in Canada?


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

headwind said:


> Where did you buy one of these bikes in Canada?


Kijiji for $150 slightly used. Canadian tire used to sell Ironhorse Dolomite (same as Mongoose Dolomite) and now Schwinn Biggity Dlx (same as Mongoose Malus).


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## headwind (Sep 30, 2004)

kryten said:


> Kijiji for $150 slightly used. Canadian tire used to sell Ironhorse Dolomite (same as Mongoose Dolomite) and now Schwinn Biggity Dlx (same as Mongoose Malus).


I'd buy one just to thrash it!


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

@Kryten.

Why not buy a RF BB and crank complete for $104usd? UniversalCycles has them at a decent price.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Pack66 said:


> @Kryten.
> 
> Why not buy a RF BB and crank complete for $104usd? UniversalCycles has them at a decent price.


I already bought and installed Vuelta crankset and cheap sealed 110x167mm bottom bracket. That sealed bottom bracket would work if I was doing 1x, but for 2x with 22T granny gear it does not. I will try to do the garden hose O ring trick today and will be maintaining and regressing stock BB regularly I guess...


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Shouldn't any external cup BSA BB work for this thing?


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Test ride last night, perfect conditions.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Hey guys, I have a 2017 Malus with the red drilled wheels. My seat post keep moving even though I only weight 145 lbs. I purchased a better seat clamp but I noticed that the stock clamp is welded to the seat tube. Have anyone replaced the the seat clamp and encountered this problem on the Dolo, Hitch, or the old Malus? I don’t know how to remove it without damaging the seat tube and the paint? Thanks


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Did garden hose O ring mod to 'seal' the bottom bracket. I think it turned out ok and looks like it should keep out most of the grime from entering bb shell and wiping away grease.

My first winter test ride went well apart from wiping out on ice less than a minute into my ride. (I'm used to my Dillingers)

So today got bored and drilled holes and studded these Chaoyang 4.0 tires that come stock on the Malus with the 30 left over studs I had from studding my D5s last winter. Was planning to use Gorilla glue or some sort of silicone sealant but wanted to go for a ride already and did not. 30 is of course not enough to make much difference, mainly wanted to see if they would hold. Spent almost two hours on trails and some pavement riding commuting to trails and did not loose a single one.

Unfortunately these tires, while probably half the weight of the original Dolo tires, are not adequate for any type of winter trail riding. Main issue is complete lack or corner knobs. Even in the rear they don't have much bite. I was planing to get some more studs, but now my dilemma is if it is even worth studding or should I just get better tires first. :???:


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## SteeleRyder (Oct 16, 2017)

So I’ve really been enjoying my hitch! So far I’ve upgraded the grips,freewheel, and shifters. I ran across a deal online looking for some new crank arms and got a race face turbine crankset for 40.00 bucks it was normally a whole lot more up to 280.00.. I also ordered bsa sealed bearings for the bottom bracket as I doubt the race face one will fit but I wanted bettter crank arms so it was a good deal. All that’s left is my bars and stem and brakes for now. At some point I might update the headset and forks but for now that’s the only plans I have. As far as the stem and bars I’m thinking about keeping it race face what’s your thoughts on their products... I’ve found a race face respond set for like 80.00 bucks bars are 785 stem is 45 degrees, feeling like this cheap fat bike will be a super nice ride when Its all said and done. It is heavy but I haven’t upgraded the seat post are tubes and tires that will lighten it up at least 8 pounds from what I understand...


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## DirtyHun (Jan 9, 2011)

Hey, you wild and crazy Dolomiters. I just wanted to offer you various take-off parts from my Diamondback El Oso Grande. Chances are, they would be upgrades, so if you think you might want them, they're yours for the cost of shipping.

I have a set of 31.8 mm bars, a seat (and a seatpost, but I think it is too thick for the Dolo), and a 1 1/8" stem up for grabs. 

Let me know if you want any of these items.


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## Vtwinsideways (Dec 4, 2017)

Just bought a 2017 Dolomite black with blue rims and over the last 3 weeks I have done some upgrades to it as well as tearing down all bearings and cleaning and regreasing them. After the initial rebuild, including adjustments to the brakes, I wasn't impressed with the braking (yeah, I know now that there is a break in period) so I swapped out the rotors for a set of 203mm Ice-Tech RT 86's. I used Shimano adapters and found that they were a direct fit for the rears, but for the front I had to go to the LBS to find an oversized bracket that I could machine to fit so that the adapter and caliper would fit. Just curious if anyone else has had this difficulty?


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

I use BB7 calipers with 160mm rotors so I'm not sure about a rotor that big if you are using stock calipers.









-15 this weekend in VT.


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## Gelthos (Jan 11, 2018)

So I just got my new Hitch and immediately went to work. Carbon bars, Avid brake levers, sun race trigger shifter, Kore lite seat post and seat, and a xt Mtb crank set. I'm surprised and disappointed that it still comes in at 43lbs. Will tires and tubes make that big of a reduction?


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## DirtyHun (Jan 9, 2011)

Gelthos said:


> So I just got my new Hitch and immediately went to work. Carbon bars, Avid brake levers, sun race trigger shifter, Kore lite seat post and seat, and a xt Mtb crank set. I'm surprised and disappointed that it still comes in at 43lbs. Will tires and tubes make that big of a reduction?


Tires alone can knock 3-5 pounds off.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

At an absolute minimum, replace the tubes and rim strip. Throwing in something like a 27.5+ tube or a 26x2.7 DH tube will knock off at least a pound. replacing the rim strip with tape helps too. I think the stock tubes were from tractors or left overs from the 1930's. Stock tires aren't that far off.


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## Paul Fithian (Dec 28, 2017)

Set your wheels up tubeless with stretch wrap and new, lighter tires if you can. This took over 8 lbs off of my GMC Yukon.

See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-stretch-wrap-procedure-1066204.html

Removing rotating weight is the first place you should start, it makes more difference than anywhere else on the bike.


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## Gelthos (Jan 11, 2018)

Paul Fithian said:


> Set your wheels up tubeless with stretch wrap and new, lighter tires if you can. This took over 8 lbs off of my GMC Yukon.
> 
> See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tubeless-stretch-wrap-procedure-1066204.html
> 
> Removing rotating weight is the first place you should start, it makes more difference than anywhere else on the bike.


I was wondering about going tubeless.


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## momikey (Aug 6, 2014)

Bump in hopes everyone is riding and not posting!


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Gelthos said:


> I was wondering about going tubeless.


I've gone tubeless with FBNs. Used the ghetto tubeless method with split tubes. Well worth the hassle for Arizona trails.


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## Vtwinsideways (Dec 4, 2017)

Dolomite black&blue version is back in stock at Wally World. For $179.99 again. https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Mongo...75035&wl11=online&wl12=55456516&wl13=&veh=sem


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## Vtwinsideways (Dec 4, 2017)

momikey said:


> I use BB7 calipers with 160mm rotors so I'm not sure about a rotor that big if you are using stock calipers.


Got some miles on the 203's and they are working out great with the stock calipers. With me currently at 315lbs the bike around 50, I definitely need the extra braking. I'll be throwing on another 30-50 in gear to do some back country fishing. Hopefully by mid summer I'll be a lot lighter.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Possible upgrade time. Fat suspension
Has anybody had any experience with the Whool or Pasak fat forks? I've seen a couple posts about the spring cartridge version with 28mm stanchions, but they seem to be the same as a suntour XCT. OK fork, but a little flexy under a clyde. There is a 32mm stanchion air cartridge version that I'm looking at. If you have one (or want to buy one and be a test dummy), speak up. Here's a link to one of them, but there are other sellers out there.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kal...t-120mm-travel-Beach-oil-gas/32796974016.html
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JX29B

cross posted to a couple of the other non-lbs fatbike discussions.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Two different quetions...

A. Can anybody tell me if a Maxxis FBR or FBF 26 x 4.8 tire will fit on the back of a Mongoose Hitch? Info on the other Mongoose Fat Bikes would be helpful as well.

B. What are the differences in the Hitch and Dolomite frames? Particularly when it comes to fitting a large rear tire...I know they are very similar but are they identical...would a wider tire fit on the rear of the Dolomite than the Hitch.

Appreciate any help.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Bullfrog123 said:


> ...B. What are the differences in the Hitch and Dolomite frames? Particularly when it comes to fitting a large rear tire...I know they are very similar but are they identical...would a wider tire fit on the rear of the Dolomite than the Hitch.


Dolomites are not even identical. 
outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")
So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

watts888 said:


> Possible upgrade time. Fat suspension
> Has anybody had any experience with the Whool or Pasak fat forks? I've seen a couple posts about the spring cartridge version with 28mm stanchions, but they seem to be the same as a suntour XCT. OK fork, but a little flexy under a clyde. There is a 32mm stanchion air cartridge version that I'm looking at. If you have one (or want to buy one and be a test dummy), speak up. Here's a link to one of them, but there are other sellers out there.
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kal...t-120mm-travel-Beach-oil-gas/32796974016.html
> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JX29B
> ...


I ordered a front wheel assembly (27.5 x 52mm internal width rim) for a Mongoose Terrex and it was less than $50 delivered to my door. I then bought a Suntour XCR fork (about $100) and replaced the front end on my Hitch...used a 2.8" wide Maxxis DHF tire.

Steers a lot quicker and still rides very nice.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Dolomites are not even identical.
> outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
> original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
> late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")
> So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.


Thanks Canoe...yea Mongoose tends to make changes along the way that is why it is important for everyone to record the model and date code on the bottom of the seat stay before it falls apart. I have two Mongoose Terrexs...one is 135mm rear spacing and the other one is 147mm (I think...it is wider).


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Dolomites are not even identical.
> outside-outside spread of chain stays at inner rim
> original Dolomite March 2014, 8 3/16"
> late summer/fall 2014, 191mm (7.52")
> So are you getting a used one or a new one? Perhaps people with a new/newer frame can measure for you or post what fits theirs.


Just measured my Hitch...it is the same as the later Dolomite...about 7.5".

Dang just when Walmart gets the Dolomite back in stock too...oh well I have the 4.8 Maxxis FBR ordered and I am going to try it. My measurements indicate it is going to be really close on whether it fits or not.

Thanks again for the info and the quick response.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

*Freewheels*



leaftye said:


> What 8 speed freewheel are you planning on? I have a DNP Epoch that I'm planning to install tonight.


FWIW, anybody changing the Freewheel (some call it a cassette but the correct terminology is a Freewheel)....the DNP has a finer engagement (more teeth) than most Freewheels and works quite well IMO.

It is possible to disassemble a DNP freewheel and the four smallest gears can be interchanged or exchanged for gears from a cassette. Not something I would recommend because the little nut that holds the gears on is very thin. The ID of the gears is a nine spline just like the gears on a cassette...the three big gears are different. Other brands of Freewheels are different and do not allow this mod.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Bullfrog123 said:


> ...It is possible to disassemble a DNP freewheel and the four smallest gears can be interchanged or exchanged for gears from a cassette. Not something I would recommend because the little nut that holds the gears on is very thin. The ID of the gears is a nine spline just like the gears on a cassette...the three big gears are different. Other brands of Freewheels are different and do not allow this mod.


I don't believe I've heard of that before. Is it too late for you to post photos of that?


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Canoe said:


> I don't believe I've heard of that before. Is it too late for you to post photos of that?


Yes, It is all back together and I am riding it now...actually have a BBSHD electric motor powering it. That is why I need to change the gearing around. Had to disassemble it with a punch and a hammer. One option for putting it back together is to leave off the smallest gear and find a nut with the correct threads. I couldn't find one...that is why I used blue loctite and the original nut.

Even the two local bike shops I checked with didn't have a tool/spanner to fit the nut...I am sure DNP did not intend for anyone to take their Freewheel apart.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Photos of the end setup?


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Photos of the end setup?


The pink nail polish is on the little nut...be careful, it is only about one thread thick.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Thanks!

That's one limited chainline off the front. Why the high tooth count? Not enough torque?


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Thanks!
> 
> That's one limited chainline off the front. Why the high tooth count? Not enough torque?


I ride single track/off road only and I geared it to have the motor spinning full speed when the bike is going about 18 mph. I run a 28 tooth front on the bike pictured and on the rear I can use the cog the chain is on or one on either side of it and the chain line stays very straight.

IMO, if anyone is building an electric bike and intends to ride off road...the only choice for a motor is the Bafang BBSHD. I started with a MAC IGH motor and tried everything possible to keep it from overheating with no luck.

The BBSHD is about as simple as it gets as far as installation.

I'd recommend a 14s battery as well...can't go over 60 volts or the BBSHD will throw an error and with the 14s you have a little more power than the 13s...8% more as a matter of fact.


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## 93EXCivic (Mar 12, 2018)

So would a Dolomite off Craigslist be the cheap and fun introduction to fat biking that I think it would be?

How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

93EXCivic said:


> How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?


I can't comment on fit.

But, they're a very "budget" bike. 
To get any life out of them, before you ever ride it you need to check, clean, grease, the front & rear hubs, bottom bracket, sometimes others. 
If you're buying used, was that done, or what components are now trash on the bike you're looking at.

It will take some bike knowledge to check it out and know if you're looking at replacing the rear or rear hubs, bottom bracket, etc..


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## 93EXCivic (Mar 12, 2018)

I figured I would throw a few of the upgrades on here at it if I did buy one since honestly many of them are pretty cheap changes. Plus giving it a good once over.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

93EXCivic said:


> I figured I would throw a few of the upgrades on here at it if I did buy one since honestly many of them are pretty cheap changes. Plus giving it a good once over.


Most people do, but one of the common issues out-of-the-box is incorrect hub bearing torque and/or dirt/metal in the grease. If that wasn't addressed, hubs & relacing can cost. And hard to resisting going for new spokes & nipples. And upgrade to cassette instead of freewheel. Starts to add up.

Spindles are soft too, so not only BB bearings, but possibly replacing a bent or destroyed spindle. At 6'2" you're likely a Clyde too, so fairly common to end up with a bent spindle down the line. Look back through recent pages for the *cartridge replacement that uses the out-swept crank arms*. That cartridge is not a direct replacement, but with the correct crank arms people report it's working.

Do consider the cost of a used Dolo PLUS all of the repairs and upgrades you'd need or want. Then compare that to the cost of a used better Fat Bike in good repair.

That said, I'm not parting with my Dolo...


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Here is my take on any of the Mongoose fat tire bikes...Hitch, Dolomite, Malus, etc.

Fairly strong frame but all of the components on the bikes i.e. shifters, brakes (levers, calipers, and pads), derailleur, pedals and just about anything you can unbolt is on the cheap end of the scale...that is how you can buy it for less than $200. If you are just going to cruise around on the bike and not get too serious or rough with it the bike is great. All of the cheap components work, just not as efficiently as a $3,000 bike.

You can slowly but surely upgrade components and still have a lot less in the bike than anything that will compete with it but it is going to take you some time and money.

If anyone ever tries to disassemble the bottom bracket, I'd highly recommend you watch the video I am posting a link to at the bottom...I have had several Mongoose bikes that must have had a 1,000 lb gorilla on the assembly line tightening the cup that screws into the frame. I actually chipped a large craftsman crescent wrench attempting to disassemble the bottom bracket. Following the procedures in the video and soaking it with penetrating oil for a few days made it a piece of cake.

Here you go:


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Bullfrog123 said:


> ...You can slowly but surely upgrade components and still have a lot less in the bike than anything that will compete with it but it is going to take you some time and money...


You can, but this is not necessarily true. 
It depends on what you upgrade, used or new parts, and the level/quality of parts, and paying for the work or DIY.

In looking at the Total Cost of one's upgrades, a number of people have upgraded the Dolo to the point where they could have spent the same money - or less - and got a lot more bike, used and even new. It will depend on your choices (which are often determined by what is available in used parts where you are, and in your DIY skills).

Plus the choice on replace/upgrade can be taken away from you if you're buying used and miss that something is trashed and must be replaced before you can safely ride.


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## 93EXCivic (Mar 12, 2018)

Canoe said:


> Most people do, but one of the common issues out-of-the-box is incorrect hub bearing torque and/or dirt/metal in the grease. If that wasn't addressed, hubs & relacing can cost. And hard to resisting going for new spokes & nipples. And upgrade to cassette instead of freewheel. Starts to add up.
> 
> Spindles are soft too, so not only BB bearings, but possibly replacing a bent or destroyed spindle. At 6'2" you're likely a Clyde too, so fairly common to end up with a bent spindle down the line. Look back through recent pages for the *cartridge replacement that uses the out-swept crank arms*. That cartridge is not a direct replacement, but with the correct crank arms people report it's working.
> 
> ...


Ok maybe it makes sense to spend the bit extra to get a new one? Either way, I figured on checking the hubs, repacking the bearings, new tubes and maybe YST bearing and cup before riding. I'd hit some of the lighter trails and see if I like a fat bike. I figure if I don't at all I could sell for some lose of money but not the end of the world. If I kind of liked I could hold on to a Dolomite and slowly do little upgrades and use it for those occasional time I want a fat bike. I really like modifying and tweaking things so it would be a fun project if nothing else. If I really liked fat biking, I'd sell the Dolomite and grab a nicer fat bike. As far as the Clyde, I am currently 215lb but trying to get down to 200-205 over the next few months. Not sure if that counts as a clyde or not.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Sounds like you're looking at it in the right way and have or can develop the skills for the work that make upgrades economical.

Used Dolo is fine, IF you can determine the condition of what you're getting. You might even find one with key upgrades done. 
But buying new is the way to be as sure as one can. Just make sure you service everything before you ever ride it, or else you can be trashing the bearing surfaces.

No one has chimed in yet, but a number of taller riders got longer seat posts. Some a longer tube and/or riser stem; some with riser bars (like BMX).

Like fat
Great idea to test 'fat bike', but ride a Dolo vs. ride a nice Fat Bike can be two different things. Some people have tried a Dolo as a first fat and had it turn them off of fat, then later rode a 'nice' Fat Bike and went wow. With the parts and skills, you can imitate nice for a good price; watch your costs.

Clyde - BB
The YST at no wiggle yet zero preload is amazing. Best BB I've ever had, even over Shimano XT and XTR (not on Dolo). The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite - Page 12- Mtbr.com
But rider weight or punching can bend the spindle. Hence the cartridge BB with the swept crank arms.

Clyde - rear axle
And its soft rear axle can get bent too. (Soft rod combined with freewheel hub: bearings are at freewheel locations, not cassette locations...)








So if you end up replacing the rear hub, a rider with some weight should be going freehub & cassette not freewheel hub.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

I've got a 9 speed freewheel (generic Chinese I think) I picked up at a local co-op. Planning to put it and an old 9 speed shifter on fairly soon. Hopefully no adjustment needed to the chainline.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

93EXCivic said:


> How do they fit a taller rider (6'2")?


Being 6'4", I'll chime in on this. You'll need a crazy long seat post, and it will need to be decent quality. I bought a $15 one that was 450mm long, and it bent on the first ride, on asphalt and gravel. To me, the cost to get a good seat post plus common "little" upgrades justifies the upgrade cost to get one off bikesdirect.

$400 bikesdirect fatbike; 8 speed, alloy handlebar and seatpost, alloy brake levers,

$200 mongoose + $40 for basic 8-speed freewheel and shifter, $10 for grips, $10 for some brake levers, $25 for a seatpost, $15 for a handlebar. Lets call it $300. This still will have the 10 pound tubes, uncomfortable seat, heavy steel frame, freewheel rear hub, oversize front chainring (ok for road, not for trails, easily messed up bottom bracket and wheel bearings, and questionable quality brake calipers. All of which will need to be completely taken apart, re-greased, and reassembled. I guarantee they will not be good from the factory. I found metal shavings in every bearing plus the front wheel had a damaged bearing race from when they over tightened it during assembly.

Not saying you wouldn't have problems with bikesdirect stuff, but at least it starts out a little better and is much easier to work on. If you don't plan on doing any upgrades or would heavily modify any bike you get anyway, the dolomite (and it's family of fat) will work.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

Hey all, just grabbed a used dolo (appears lightly used, almost zero usage really). One thing I searched for here is weight tolerance and I can't come up with a solid answer.

The guy stated it was about a year old, figuring 2016/2017 model (common blue/red). When I ride it, the front has a random squealing sound (not brakes). It appears more aggressive when I pedal. It's definitely only when I ride on it, otherwise makes no noise when I roll it around. 

I can't tell if it's the headset or front wheel axel/bearings. The rear which has most of the weight does not make the random squeal. It is a random but often occuring squeal, each lasting a 1~3 seconds. No specific pattern or riding style changes the random sound, except a bit more while pedaling. 

Since I have stock (need to change) far forward handlebars, I'm leaning a bit hard forward on the headset. It kinda hurts my hands. And the sound is really hard to target, headset or wheel. It almost sounds in between them. Very odd! 

Ideas? Thanks!


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

watts888...what are you going to do to tension your chain? I just installed a Surly "Singleator" on my single speed Hitch which is really just a red Dolomite and it works great.

omi...I think you are on the right track i.e. a bearing. My first guess would be the front wheel bearings. Mongoose is notorious for over tightening them. But it could be the headset. Pull the front wheel and grease the wheel bearings then check the preload on the bearings. Make sure that the preload doesn't change when you are installing the wheel and tightening the nuts on the axle. I think you'll need a 17mm cone wrench...I bought a set of cone wrenches from Jensonusa not long: Foundation Cone Wrench Tool Set | Jenson USA


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Not odd at all. 
Very typical for bikes at this price point (and seen in the Dolo) to arrive as new with debris in any/all of the bearings, including bits of metal shavings. 
As new, before ever riding this bike (or others of similar quality) you need to clean out and degrease the bearings, regrease and take care when setting the torque (don't over torque and damage the low quality bearings), as the threads at this price point are sloppy and it may take a few tries to get it right. 
As your bike was obviously driven, likely before the above servicing was done, inspect for damage, replace as necessary. You may need to replace the hub. 
Do this servicing for the front, rear, bottom bracket and steering.

Rear axle and the pedal spindle are known to be of soft material and prone to bending. If you're a clyde, expect this; pedal gently, avoid bumps. 

Or get a better spindle (source?) or get the replacement cartridge and swept crank arms that has been used successfully as documented in more recent posts in this thread. 
If you need to replace the rear hub or axle, remember that freewheel hubs have an inboard load on the drive side that tends to bend the axle. Seriously consider a freehub and cassette replacement, instead of another freewheel hub.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Anybody looking for handlebars with more sweep....the "Origin8 Bat Wing MTB Handlebar" works fairly well. They have a 25 degree sweep angle, 660mm wide, and a 31.8mm clamp.
I went with a Truvativ Hussefelt Stem (40mm length). The bars are about $40...cheapest I could find with 25 degree sweep angle and the stem is about $25. The bars are flat i.e. no rise...you can add a stem riser if you want to raise them up, I did.

The 660mm width is a little narrow for downhill but works great for riding in the woods so you don't slam your knuckles in to trees .


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

Thanks for the info Canoe/Bullfrog. I did read half the internet and this forum seems to be the best of the bunch. It's just intimidating as this is the first bike in 25 years for me, just to cruise on paved back streets with my kid. 

I see so many acronyms and informed wording here that it's like a new language. I assume Clyde is a big person in any way? That I am if so. Tall and wide .

Per the info here I will service all you mentioned (or, have it done to be honest). The front wheel is at the shop as I write this being packed. Over time, the usual total transformation of upgrades will happen but it really is easy for me stock too.

I looked at some of the saddle recommends and I really need a huge saddle to be comfy. I'm using a pretty large schwinn 11.5" now, but I can bend the metal rails it sits on with one hand. Seated it stays just fine but does anyone have a super comfy, large mens saddle to recommend? (I grew up with banana seats!). I'm about to weld a motorcycle seat on this thing..

Thanks!

Edit:

Exactly like what was just posted while I posted. The stock handlebars are in the dirt. I'm putting half my weight to the headset lunging forward. I need it up like 6 inches or more and toward me. I just need to decrypt the language


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Try a Nashbar SC1 Comfort Saddle, not the largest but comfy: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling...ddles/nashbar-sc1-comfort-saddle-nb-sc1s-base

The cloud 9 seats look good but are pretty wimpy, I bent mine.

Yep...Clyde is short for Clydesdale i.e. a LARGE horse...or person. I am one as well.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

Ahh okay.

I'm using something that is bigger already, 330mm https://tinyurl.com/y84mhq2k Schwinn Breeze Comfort Foam saddle. It's comfy, I just don't want to be out riding and find out the hard way I'm walking the fat bike home from a few miles away . So if anyone knows of something in that 330mm/13in (could be 11in, doesn't specify which dimension is width/length), and is unusually strong, that's what I need! (Along with brakes, dual crank, brakes, tires/tubes, .......)


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

I tried the largest Cloud 9 which is 12x12: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat and I like my Nashbar SC-1 better (mine measures 8.5" wide and 11" long).

Tires depends on the surface you are going to be riding...I have had really good luck with Maxxis. Off road I'd go with the FBF/FBR 26x4.00 with a 60 tpi casing. 60 is stronger and more puncture resistant than 120 but the ride isn't quite as plush..I take care of that with air pressure. The tread pattern is too aggressive for pavement. Anybody have a recommendation for pavement tires?

Brakes...first upgrade your rotors front and rear to 180mm. Your stock brakes will work better just keep them adjusted. When they get to be too aggravating or you want even more...go to hydraulics. My personal preference is shimano. Here is an option: Shimano BR-M395 Disc Brake | Jenson USA Jenson is pretty helpful if you need it.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

I guess it comes down to if anyone knows of some kind of rating or method to know if a seat is strong. The feature points don't say that it strives to be stronger than a typical seat. The two metal rails might be just the same size, same problem. Do those bars have a name or a desirable material stronger than steel? These are the odd niche things I struggle to find.

Are the Maxxis lighter than stock dolos? I see everyone mention dropping upwards of 7lbs just from tire and tube alone. Are those street tires and/or recommended because they're lighter?

The bike shop mentioned these bikes have a low aggressive handlebar for a reason. They're meant for hard riding. It might be wrong, but I already have the bike, so is there a hybrid/comfy handlebar that most people use outside standard bmx handlebars? Something that can come close to turning it a bit more like a cruiser? The bmx handlebars make it look a bit strange to me, but who knows, it might be awesome and finally get me sitting more upright. Right now it's just too much pressure on my hands.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

omi said:


> ... I see everyone mention dropping upwards of 7lbs just from tire and tube alone. Are those street tires and/or recommended because they're lighter? ...


Reducing the weight is nice as you're not carrying it around, and you'd have faster acceleration, but neither is the major reason for upgrading tire & tube. The primary benefit is greatly reduced rolling resistance. Lowered mass of tires means *less robbing of energy as the tire deforms and reforms into/outof the contact patch as it rolls along*. Lots of tire choices.

For the same reason, people like going Getto Tubeless (so instead of a big heavy tube, or a normal tube, there's no tube robbing energy as it deforms and reforms as the wheel rolls along. For your usage, don't bother with Getto Tubeless, and it's a pain to do on a Dolo anyway due to the tire bead seat.

So ditch the stock tubes; check through the various recommendations, which may vary depending on the tires you chose.



omi said:


> ... so is there a hybrid/comfy handlebar that most people use outside standard bmx handlebars? Something that can come close to turning it a bit more like a cruiser? The bmx handlebars make it look a bit strange to me, but who knows, it might be awesome and finally get me sitting more upright. Right now it's just too much pressure on my hands.


You can try all sorts, but many people have fit issues with the swept cruiser bars. Can't make the turn when you can't swing the bar through your own body.

People with the issues you describe usually eventually end up using BMX bars. If you're worried about looking a little weird, remember, it is a fat bike. And who cares if it means you get to ride it without damaging your wrists.

BMX bars are not all the same. Check out their options. 
I use BMX and an adjustable stem. Gives me max adjust-ability of the location of the grips and the angle of the grips.
There were some important issues with which style of clamps in the adjustable stem, but I can't find where I put the notes or images. 
(and unfortunately, all of the helpful links became useless with one of the updates to mtbr) 
ah; found this one
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-25.html#post12711435

You could look at the Ergon GC1 style cork/rubber grips, but with BMX bars it's at different angles and you're no longer putting your upper body weight on your hands, just part of the weight of your arms.

With Clydes, don't forget stopping power. 
Even upgrading one brake to a BB7 and 180 or ~200 would provide a lot of improvement. Normally braking is primarily done on the front, but with a Clyde sitting up straight, I'd be tempted to put the best on the rear. 
I cheated and just got a set of BB7 on sale for the front and rear.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

Ahh I thought the extra weight added centrifugal force which slowed it down overall, didn't think about the plyability. That makes sense and I'll hunt down something less nobby/offroad. It has so much now it sounds like a rumble strip. 

My brakes were misaligned and I already noticed it bending the rotor, digging into the pad at an angle, cutting it up. That was painfully quick! Upgrade and calibration time for sure.

Thanks for the link and yes I do agree turning will be compromised, and wrists are worth protecting more than anything. Bmx it is!

Thanks again Canoe, time to go shopping!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

omi said:


> Ahh I thought the extra weight added centrifugal force which slowed it down overall, didn't think about the plyability.


The greater mass compared to non-fat can mean that the rotational momentum keeps the fat wheel rotating over minor obstacles that slow down non-fat bikes. But you're not going on a trail. 
The pliability is also affected by 30 TPI, 60 TPI or 120 TPI casing. 
Knobs on pavement are known for causing more deforming than one would get from a street tire.

Seats...
Before you spend money, you should do some research on what is currently known about bike seats. Some of what has been determined is counter intuitive. Bigger & foamier is not necessarily best, but might be. 
And some seats it's varying degrees and type of cushion (or not) on plate held by springs, others the seat is sorta like a hammock, and you have the option of a seat post suspension/shock. A Clyde friend has a $12K road bike with a seat that is carbon fibre that looks like a shoe horn, and he swears it's the most comfortable seat he's ever had. Of course he may just be trying to con me into trying to ride it...
(I'll be trying a long Loaf seat for my cargo fat bike)
BUT, where your weight will be transferring to the seat will be changing once you're in an upright riding posture. What you find most comfortable as a seat right now could change dramatically once you've got BMX bars positioned where you want them.

Unless you have a clear determination of a choice, I'd suggest spending your money in steps, to reduce the likelihood of needing to spend it twice. Used bike repair co-ops are a great source of cheap stuff to try out before you buy nice, if that's needed. Thinking seats & bars.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

lol
Here's a seat I found at the bike co-op, on my 26" 47mm trials rim.









If refurbishing a old rusted seat of questionable strength, or it's a newer seat with a thin plate, you can epoxy support stays/ribs onto its underside.

Should put that on my friend's 12K road bike and his shoe horn on my Dolo and go to the July bike meet.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

All wise advice. 

Is there a rail rating? It seems the same diameter seat to seat. At my size no springs matter, ~400lb. Sheer strength is all I seek, along with comfort. My legs push this tiny 7 speed stock dolo with no effort at all.

200ish (mm) rotors and bmx handlebars are next. Aside a Dick's Sporting Goods tune to repack front/back, bracket and headset. 

I really can't find, and need, a super saddle.

Thanks!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

omi said:


> All wise advice.
> Is there a rail rating? It seems the same diameter seat to seat. At my size no springs matter, ~400lb. Sheer strength is all I seek, along with comfort. My legs push this tiny 7 speed stock dolo with no effort at all.
> 200ish (mm) rotors and bmx handlebars are next. Aside a Dick's Sporting Goods tune to repack front/back, bracket and headset.
> I really can't find, and need, a super saddle.
> Thanks!


I've never heard of a rail rating. The other issue will be the strength of the seat post, particularly if it is extended. 
You may need to consider a Loaf Seat. Like a Banana Seat, only shaped more like a loaf of bread, somewhat tapered down towards the front. Google. 
The front goes on the seat post, with a pair of stays going down to the rear axle. I'm using aluminum hospital crutches for mine, but I'd use steel tube for yours. Go right to the axle, other than to the frame. 
A stock Loaf Seat would have your weight too far back on the bike. You'd need to move the seat post attachment point somewhat back on the seat. 
However, you can build your own. In your case, your height will determine distance from hip to pedals, so you can build it shorter (or match your seat length needs), the 'plate' can be plywood on a thin steel plate for load distribution of the seat post. Quality dense upholstery foam with an outdoor 'leather' cloth over it. Google Rat Rod bikes. 
If there's a place that makes seats for motorcycles near you, you should talk to them.

If you stand up on the pedals, or use those strong legs to power/punch the pedals, you may (should expect to?) bend the stock Dolo bottom bracket spindle. So don't be surprised if that happens. 
Early on, someone found some harder spindles. However, for your use I'd suggest looking back in more recent threads for the replacement cartridge people are using. It's too short to work stock, but someone discovered that with swept crank arms (model mentioned in the posts) it is reported to clear the rear stays.

All of the cheap bikes use freewheel, which means the freewheel hub. Those that end up bending the axle through weight or a jump reported that they sometimes got away with loosening the axle nuts and rotating the axle so the bend was then up. Maybe o.k. for a one-of event, but metal fatigue will catch up with that, quicker with a bigger bend or repeated bending. Expect to have to go with a rear freehub (that can take the weight) and a cassette. At the time you do that, get quality spokes and nipples (those are cheap).

MAKE sure that there are no loose spokes. You don't want the wheel doing a taco (folding).


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

So it's not just taking the weight, but how the seat supports you. No telling what will work.

Some of the old motorcycle style seats did have (normally) useless seat springs as they were too strong. May work for you.









A loaf seat style mounting should allow you to use a variety of seat shapes supported in that manner (takes away having all of the load on the seat post). The Rat Rod mod world also has people making custom seat posts out of strong stock, should you find a suitable seat that only needs the seat post to mount.

And there's some odd ball style seats. All sorts out there, off the shelf and custom. I am NOT suggesting one with a seat back (but who knows), but those seats were advertised with such.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

omi said:


> ...200ish (mm) rotors...


Will need new mounts for the brakes to fit the larger diameter rotors. 
It may be time to get one 200ish rotor and one *new caliper* that is capable of grabbing it well, reliably and without doing damage. In your case, if upgrading one, I'd go for the rear wheel. You will have a lot of momentum, so upgrading both front & rear is a very reasonable choice if you have the budget.

I like the BB7, but they have to be setup correctly, which usually requires a (surprisingly specific) procedure be followed. But then I like playing with gear, which is why I bought the BB7's more expensive adjustable levers while knowing that I'd run them at full pull all the time anyway. I'll be going to TRP Spyke mechanical calipers (Spyke are the MTB ones) gripping ~200 for my cargo fat.

Since the time I got my BB7s, there are others' favourite brakes that have been suggested more recently in this thread, including a hydroponic (really spell check?) hydraulic set or two. I have no experience with those, but if the more recent postings' brakes are as low and easy maintenance as people have posted, they're likely a better choice for your use than the BB7.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/best-seat-big-guys-1078011.html#post13664229

https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergonomics/sqlab-concepts/sqlab-the-way-to-the-perfect-saddle.html

Do remember that you'll be sitting up, so the style of seat that fits you best may be different, but I've heard tons about seat vs. bone width in recent years.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/best-seat-big-guys-1078011.html#post13664229
> 
> https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergonomics/sqlab-concepts/sqlab-the-way-to-the-perfect-saddle.html
> ...


WOW!
That link someone posted in that thread sure is great. Take a good look around that site.
Includes increasing the seat width based on upright posture.


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## omi (May 31, 2018)

Thanks a bunch for all this information consolidated! I've run into some electrical issues on my car (might need the bike more than I think oy) so I haven't had time to mess with the bike just yet. And this weekend won't be a riding weekend, like last, all rain. 

I'll have to consume all this info on my computer. That's more than enough to kill a cell battery!

Dick's Sporting Goods is where I had my front hub repacked. It spins for days and the little old man working there gave me a ton of info. They do a full seasonal service (front/rear hub, bottom bracket (apparently the pedal axle?), brakes and all torque and calibration, for $40! Includes repacking, so less for me since I did the front already. That seems extremely cheap, but this guy knows his stuff. And he just loves working on bikes. No pits in the hub or bearings. All regreased and spins for dayyyyys on a light spin. I actually managed to get an honest craigslist buy, 100 for a dolo when no store has it and it is actually almost never used. 

Sorry for the late response. I will read it all and after I get the bike tuned I'll respond if anything interesting shows up. Overall, very happy with the stock bike (except seat, handlebars, pedals, brakes and 7 gears), but I always knew it was a strong frame and a place to start learning. For street and in low gear, I can even seat peddle on light grass slopes. But I do need more torque and less weight. More of the loss should be me than the bike 

Thanks again!


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Bullfrog123 said:


> I tried the largest Cloud 9 which is 12x12: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat and I like my Nashbar SC-1 better (mine measures 8.5" wide and 11" long).
> 
> Tires depends on the surface you are going to be riding...I have had really good luck with Maxxis. Off road I'd go with the FBF/FBR 26x4.00 with a 60 tpi casing. 60 is stronger and more puncture resistant than 120 but the ride isn't quite as plush..I take care of that with air pressure. The tread pattern is too aggressive for pavement. Anybody have a recommendation for pavement tires?
> 
> Brakes...first upgrade your rotors front and rear to 180mm. Your stock brakes will work better just keep them adjusted. When they get to be too aggravating or you want even more...go to hydraulics. My personal preference is shimano. Here is an option: Shimano BR-M395 Disc Brake | Jenson USA Jenson is pretty helpful if you need it.


Well I can tell you what seat NOT to get...the Selle Royal Drifter Relaxed Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling...s/selle-royal-drifter-relaxed-saddle-sr-drift The curvature of the nose hits you in the wrong place...if you know what I mean. If you adjust the nose down enough so that it doesn't hurt then the seat is tilted so far forward you want to slide off of the front.

I know it isn't the largest seat around but the Nashbar SC-1 Comfort Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling...ddles/nashbar-sc1-comfort-saddle-nb-sc1s-base is the most comfortable I have tried. The Cloud 9 seats "look" comfy but I had tried a couple of them including the largest one they make (which is pretty big) and the Nashbar sc-1 is a little more comfortable...not as big but a little more comfortable. Here is the Cloud 9 seat I tried: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

I thought I was going to ride mine around again this weekend. Almost everything was stripped off the frame last fall, and all I needed to do was put it back together with a new fork and headset. It was going well until it came time to put the handlebar back on, and oops, I forgot I had thrown the handlebar and headset away. At least this gives me an excuse for some upgrades in this area, along with new pedals. It'll probably drop about a pound, which isn't much compared to the heavy factory tubes and tires I'm still using. I'll part together a parts list when it's put together.


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## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

Bullfrog123 said:


> Well I can tell you what seat NOT to get...the Selle Royal Drifter Relaxed Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling...s/selle-royal-drifter-relaxed-saddle-sr-drift The curvature of the nose hits you in the wrong place...if you know what I mean. If you adjust the nose down enough so that it doesn't hurt then the seat is tilted so far forward you want to slide off of the front.
> 
> I know it isn't the largest seat around but the Nashbar SC-1 Comfort Saddle: https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling...ddles/nashbar-sc1-comfort-saddle-nb-sc1s-base is the most comfortable I have tried. The Cloud 9 seats "look" comfy but I had tried a couple of them including the largest one they make (which is pretty big) and the Nashbar sc-1 is a little more comfortable...not as big but a little more comfortable. Here is the Cloud 9 seat I tried: New 12" Cloud 9 Gel Bicycle Seat


Guys and gals, for the love of whatever you hold dear, spend some time reading the threads re saddle fit. 
Go to a shop that has an ass-o-meter and actually find out what size of saddle you should be trying to find. Within each size there are many options, more padding, less padding, gel, cutouts, suited for upright, moderate or aggressive racing positions. 
But if you intend to ride your bike further than the corner store, for any time or distance, almost no one will be well served by those 12 inch wide sponge mattresses.
Very few people would actually need a saddle much wider than 155-160mm. 
Your weight is actually supported by your sit bones. So after anything less than a short commute all that excess padding will only serve to irritate the soft tissue surrounding the sitbones as they sink into all that excess padding trying to find something to support them.
Sure a firmer normal saddle will take some time to adjust too, but in the long run you will be better off.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

MozFat said:


> Guys and gals, for the love of whatever you hold dear, spend some time reading the threads re saddle fit.
> Go to a shop that has an ass-o-meter and actually find out what size of saddle you should be trying to find. Within each size there are many options, more padding, less padding, gel, cutouts, suited for upright, moderate or aggressive racing positions.
> But if you intend to ride your bike further than the corner store, for any time or distance, almost no one will be well served by those 12 inch wide sponge mattresses.
> Very few people would actually need a saddle much wider than 155-160mm.
> ...


Yup!

I guess they didn't bother checking out what was at the links provided over at the Clydesdales/tall forum.



Canoe said:


> Do take a look at this post, thread and around the Clydesdale/tall forum.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/best-seat-big-guys-1078011.html#post13664229
> 
> https://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-ergonomics/sqlab-concepts/sqlab-the-way-to-the-perfect-saddle.html
> ...


Surprisingly easy to measure yourself too. 
And to adjust that measurement for riding posture. 
And to check the curve of a seat for matching that adjusted measurement.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Is there any reason I shouldn't take apart my bottom bracket with sealed bearings and try to make it work with the YST bearings?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

leaftye said:


> Is there any reason I shouldn't take apart my bottom bracket with sealed bearings and try to make it work with the YST bearings?


What sealed bearing?

YST with zero preload is amazing, BUT you're stuck with the original long and too soft spindle. Too many end up bent.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Canoe said:


> What sealed bearing?
> 
> YST with zero preload is amazing, BUT you're stuck with the original long and too soft spindle. Too many end up bent.


Oops, not sealed. This thing.










I'm hoping it's the same spindle, and that I don't screw it up if it's different because I don't know if I can get another one.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

leaftye said:


> Oops, not sealed. This thing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well, that would certainly screw it up. That's not a spindle, that's a cartridge bearing. Someone has already solved the issue of the original weak spindle and bearing.

Are your crank arms straight or curved outwards?


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Seats...yes again . Found a little discussion back on page 5 where somebody else liked the Nashbar SC-1 seat. I still stand by it as my #1 for relatively upright riding comfort. Plus it isn't sooo big that it allows you to stand and ride fairly aggressively if that is something you want to do.

Bottom bracket removal...it can be next to impossible, I speak from experience. Check out this video...I ended up making a similar tool and soakinig my threaded section with Aerokroil penetrating oil and it came apart fairly easily without an impact wrench: 




Don't get in a hurry they can be tough to loosen. When I say soaked, I mean I removed the spindle and turned the bike on its side and had a plastic container with the penetrating oil in it so that the fixed cup was immersed in the oil. I let it soak for several days. Then by using the tool in the video and a crescent wrench, it came apart fairly easily.


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

Okay, hands off the bottom bracket for now. I didn't consider that the shell would add stiffness, and didn't know the shaft was prone to bending. So that's nice a difference for the Costco version. Unfortunately I realized you guys had been saying the Mongoose version had 100mm rims, and the Costco only has 80mm rims. 

I'm waiting for my handlebar to be delivered today, but I'm estimating a 1.3 pound savings from swapping pedals, stem and handlebar.


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## INABIL (Apr 6, 2010)

Where to buy a rear axle for the Dolomite?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

INABIL said:


> Where to buy a rear axle for the Dolomite?


Woo boy.

Pacific Cycles is likely the only source of the stock part. 
At one point, someone had a limited run of either rear axles or BB spindles. It's been too long for me, I forget. Search. Or maybe someone will chime in.

If you can't get one, you can get one machined, and hopefully out of better axle material. This could cost, and you still have a freewheel hub, same quality bearings, same quality seat, flange, etc..

If not, then it's new hub time.









You can get a new freewheel hub, and repeat the issue of having the drive side load on bearings that are well inboard of the frame. (Red dots for bearings in diagram)
Or you can get a freehub and a cassette, and not have the problem again, while having better quality and a lot more choice in gears on a cassette.

p.s.
You'd get to buy spokes & nipples too, and learn how to use a spoke calculator and how to build a wheel.


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## INABIL (Apr 6, 2010)

Thanks, it's a neighbors bike and doesn't want to up grade. I used to work in a machine shop and that seams to be the expensive way (tooling).
If I can't get stocker I'll look for a 190 mm quick release.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

INABIL said:


> ... If I can't get stocker I'll look for a 190 mm quick release.


Make sure they understand that another stock part is just a stop gap: same soft stock part, same freewheel design.

"Quick release" meaning a QR "freewheel hub" or a QR "freehub hub"?
If their weight or riding style meant that they trashed one axle, then not a good ideal to get another freewheel.


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## INABIL (Apr 6, 2010)

Quick Release axle.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Good luck finding a 190mm QR axle. You might be able to get one from a Minnesota fatbike. I think they had a 190mm QR at one time, but I don't think they offered the axle seperately, only a whole wheel. And if you try to get a new hub, the 36h hole hub will be a challenge to find in a 190mm length too. Better to get a 36h 170mm hub and bend the frame a little bit. Ultimately, I ended up getting a bikesdirect fatbike because the rear hub kept failing.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Hello “FAT” guys,

I know everyone can get a pair of hubs 135/190 with 36 holes from AliExpress for less than 50$, even LBS will rebuild our wheels using the same spokes. So basically, you could rebuild your wheels to quick release and cassette compatibility for under 150$. When I swapped my hubs to quick release and cassette compatible, my fat bike capabilities increased significantly, I know it is a bit heavy for being a steel bike, but it felt completely different after the upgrade.

I’ve been riding my fat bike on a daily basis for over 2 years. I take sandwich deliveries to a school campus and I average 25 miles a day after I go back home from work. I’ve been riding in the cold, rain, humidity, heat and the hubs were working fine if you service it accordingly. The hubs probably have more than 30k miles on them.

The other day I noticed that the inner part of the hub got damaged and even if I replace the outside cones and bearings the hubs won’t spin freely anymore.

My hubs are the quando hubs 135/190 36 holes. I don’t know what is the Thread Pitch of the axles but They could be used to convert to quick release with your existing freewheel hubs on your Dolomites, Malus, and Hitch or any other fat bike with 135/190 dropouts in need of quick release axles.

PM me with an offer for a pair of hollow threaded axles 135/190 with front and rear quick release skewers.


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## Luis_fx35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Nm, it will be listed on eBay.


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## bholio2 (Oct 21, 2013)

In case anyone is considering the dolomite, hitch or malus, you may want to consider the Mongoose Juneau at Amazon which has comes with some of the upgrades that are mentioned in this thread.

The bike costs between 325 and 430 at Amazon, depending on timing. Fits in between the Dolo and the Vinson in the line up I guess.

Drivetrain is 3x7, with a freewheel in the back  
e-type front derailleur. 
Quick release hubs front and rear. 
135 front/ 190 rear spacing.
Sealed bottom bracket. 
80mm wheels (as opposed to 100mm on the Dolo). 
Frame, fork and most components are aluminum. 
Tires are fat b nimble knockoffs. 
Weight 35-36 pounds.

I have one. The 35-36 weight is accurate. Like the Dolo, it should be taken apart, inspected and greased before use.

If you can get it at the lower end of the price range, its a bargain. At the higher end, you are approaching a Bikes Direct bike. If not for the freewheel, I think it might have been comparable to a BD bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Juneau-Bicycle-Green-Medium/dp/B01GZSMDFU


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bholio2 said:


> In case anyone is considering the dolomite, hitch or malus, you may want to consider the Mongoose Juneau at Amazon which has comes with some of the upgrades that are mentioned in this thread.
> ...


From April 2017 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mongoose-juneau-assembly-review-1043621.html

You're already in that thread. Let that thread know if anything is different from what is posted there in 2017.


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## bholio2 (Oct 21, 2013)

Thanks for letting me know what other threads I have posted in.

I mentioned the Juneau in this thread because, like the Hitch and Malus, it is a possible alternative to the Dolo for some people, depending on budget and what they are looking for.

I'm not selling these things, I just thought it would be helpful for people to know of another option in this difficult price range for fat bikes.

Didn't realize I was expected to ask permission before posting in 'your' thread... Sheesh!



Canoe said:


> From April 2017
> https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/mongoose-juneau-assembly-review-1043621.html
> 
> You're already in that thread. Let that thread know if anything is different from what is posted there in 2017.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

bholio2 said:


> Thanks for letting me know what other threads I have posted in.
> 
> I mentioned the Juneau in this thread because, like the Hitch and Malus, it is a possible alternative to the Dolo for some people, depending on budget and what they are looking for.
> 
> ...


Since you didn't, I'm was letting others know where the thread on that bike is, so they can get more info on it.

And I was suggesting that you add any info you can on that bike in that thread, so people interested in that bike don't have to go to multiple threads.

But thanks for letting us know how you think.


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## Weaselspeed (Dec 8, 2014)

Seems like the Dolomite has moved on to a 110mm BB. I was re-gifted one of these pigs and bought the origin 8 BB. Went to install it tonight and the spindle was all wobbly. Got out a measuring tool and the width of the frame is 110. Grumblemrppphhmmmrrmmm measure twice (or once since i never looked), order once


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

4,400 miles on my Dolomite changing the handlebars to "ape hangers", I ride mainly on neighborhood roads and got tired of riding bent over. Now I'll be up right for leisurely riding. Joe Greer on YouTube helped me order parts from Amazon.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Finished and can ride upright. Next a new seat.


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## Vtwinsideways (Dec 4, 2017)

*Just about done*

A big thanks to Canoe and all who have shared their knowledge here. 
Let the judging begin...


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!


Before you do, you may want to check out the $449 with 4" on 27.5 at Costco stores. A hell of a lot more bike. I.E, Atlus, etc.. I'd take it over my Dolo any day.

Seen in the stores in Ottawa, I don't see in on their web site Costco.ca. I didn't take the time to check on the bike, intending to check their web site, so I don't know if it's freewheel or freehub, and now I can't find out online.

If you're a Clyde (heavy) or intend to do some serious riding, you'll break the freewheel in time and then you'll need to replace parts or upgrade to freehub.

A friend saw them too and said it was a Giant frame, rebranded. I think he said it was aluminum.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!


P.S.
Last year I saw Schwinn Biggity in CT that are NOT Dolomites nor Hitches, but something different. Same build quality & components, fancier dressing. There were other more expensive fat bikes too, all in the same build quality, etc., with some extremely minor improvements: all still department store bikes. The bike at Costco with 4" on 27.5" is up at an entirely different level. What I call the beginning of a real bike, not a department store bike.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!


Schwinn Biggity DLX, $379 (CAD) at CT. 
My god NO! That bike is not worth that.

Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD). 
It's worth the trip, even if you have to drive to another town. If no one has a membership, lookup how to get a Costo Giftcard which will allow you to enter and purchase with it. Call the store first to ensure they have them in stock.


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## kryten (Mar 8, 2012)

Canoe said:


> Schwinn Biggity DLX, $379 (CAD) at CT.
> My god NO! That bike is not worth that.
> 
> Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD).
> It's worth the trip, even if you have to drive to another town. If no one has a membership, lookup how to get a Costo Giftcard which will allow you to enter and purchase with it. Call the store first to ensure they have them in stock.


I agree, however I see Biggity's for $150 - $200 on classifieds often as people ride them once and realize they don't like cold or they are in no shape to ride and enjoy riding a 50lb bike.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

kryten said:


> I agree, however I see Biggity's for $150 - $200 on classifieds often as people ride them once and realize they don't like cold or they are in no shape to ride and enjoy riding a 50lb bike.


Good point, but...
... did the original owner know to clear, clean and repack the bearings in the front, rear & bottom bracket, or did they ride it as-in from the store and trash the bearings/seats. Did they bend the freewheel or the long vulnerable BB spindle. Did they check the spoke tension or did they damage the rim (spokes, hub(s)).

If you're getting a second hand "department store" level bike, you have to know to, and how to, check for those issues and any others that department store bikes are known to have, and/or be prepared to spend the time and/or $ to fix or upgrade them. Suddenly your $150 bike is:

a piece of trash you want to sell off, or 
worse, you put $100 or $200 into it before you decided to sell the problem to someone else, or 
you suddenly have $350 or $450 into the bike, only it's still a $200 bike for which the factory got paid $30 to $40. 

I love my Dolo. 
But you have to be prepared to either service, repair or upgrade some things yourself, or pay more $ for someone to do it for you. If you have the know how, or are willing to learn, and have parts or a bike co-op nearby, or have $ for parts, you can get it done cheaply or frugally - your choice - (and possibly have a lot of fun - I do). Else it can quickly cost you more than a reasonably good bike, used or new, would have cost you if you'd known how much you'd end up putting into it.

Else you're going to end up throwing it in the recyle/trash sooner or later, or selling/giving the problem to someone else.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys

1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.

2. I know about the issues I might face along with maintenance, and I accepted that a long time ago.

Can you guys give any advice for when I do get it? Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option


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## Saskrider (Jun 30, 2016)

Canoe said:


> Good point, but...
> ... did the original owner know to clear, clean and repack the bearings in the front, rear & bottom bracket, or did they ride it as-in from the store and trash the bearings/seats. Did they bend the freewheel or the long vulnerable BB spindle. Did they check the spoke tension or did they damage the rim (spokes, hub(s)).
> 
> If you're getting a second hand "department store" level bike, you have to know to, and how to, check for those issues and any others that department store bikes are known to have, and/or be prepared to spend the time and/or $ to fix or upgrade them. Suddenly your $150 bike is:
> ...


 This is extremely good advice


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## Saskrider (Jun 30, 2016)

snowymountains24 said:


> Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys
> 
> 1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.
> 
> ...


Shoveling snow for a fat bike at 13 is the raddest thing I've ever heard on here Wish more guys your age had this attitude. Have fun on the new bike! But dont buy a money pit


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> Alright, just keep 3 things in mind, guys
> 
> 1. I can't afford anything more. I'm on a tight budget, I made all of my money shoveling snow, and I'm only 13, turning 14 next year.
> 
> ...


O.k.
Tight budget it is. 
So you need to be very frugal.

Are you able to buy new, or are you buying used?
If used, then you need to learn how to make sure you're not buying someone else's money pit.

How much you need to address will also depend on: your weight, and how you intend to ride. As in, will you be cruising along, or are there places there where you can hammer it. Jumps are NOT a good idea, due to the long/weak bottom bracket spindle, and that it's a freewheel with a soft & vulnerable axle (look up the page or the page back for the images showing what/why).

You'll need to check the bearings of: front hub, rear hub, bottom bracket. If the axles, seats or bb spindle are damaged, you're into some $ to fix this. Which is why they're an issue used, or if you ride it before cleaning them out and repacking before the bike's very first ride. You're also hoping the guys int he store didn't ride it around the store or out back. If new, if possible, get one in its box, so you know it hasn't been messed with.

A cartridge bottom bracket is nice due to sealing for longevity, but the YST bearing is ~$10 and is super smooth if set to the correct torque.

All you need to know - apart if exact parts to fit (which has to be measured to check your bike for model changes or different parts used) - is in this thread. Unfortunately, the forum paging changed, so the refernce links are all wrong; but, look at the first page of posts for some of the things to consider.

Can you tell us how many dollars you have to work with? For bike, grease, parts, etc..


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Canoe said:


> O.k.
> Tight budget it is.
> So you need to be very frugal.
> 
> ...


Alright, for one I'm buying it new
Second, for now i'll have the money to buy the bike, and over time I'll save up more money to make sure if anything goes wrong I'll be prepared

One upgrade I intend to make eventually on it will be handlebars. I weigh 170, and I plan to ride it as a 3 in one, a cruiser, mountain bike, and a get-around-town bike.

If you've got any other advice or pictures of your dolos to share with me, go ahead! I will obviously set aside some dollars for grease and everything, but for now I need to plan.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> ... Here in windsor, ontario there is unfortunely no other way I can get a fat bike other than getting the schwinn, so I have no other option


I got my Dolo from Walmart.com, delivered to the store in Ogdensburg, NY. I drove an hour down to pick it up and bring it back across the border. Shipping to the store was free. I paid HST at the border. Plus USD into CAD. 
If you know someone with a car and passport who can cross over to Detroit for you, you should be able to have them go pickup something you order. Depending on the sources, it's easier if someone with a credit card pays and you pay them.

i.e., the current Dolo from Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Mongoose-Dolomite-Men-s-Fat-Tire-Bike-Black/55456516
$269 USD / $354 CAD
or 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Limited-Edition-26-Men-s-Fat-Tire-Bicycle-in-Black/520043916
$219 USD / $289 CAD

Watch for sales.

That Costco Northrock $445 CAD 27.5 is often $300 USD, for $395 CAD.

Things can also be shipped to a UPS store in Detroit for pickup. The fee for that services is usually $5 USD. Of course, the shipping charges from whomever shipped it.

Is there a bike co-op there where you can pick through used parts, use their tools, and they usually have some nights/weekends where there's a bike mechanic guiding people working on their own bikes.

Also, don't be shy to ask here if someone has a spare part you can use. Easier for someone in Canada to send if they have a spare part to gift you or sell cheap. Also, I have a bike co-op I can get parts at cheap, say a different freewheel gears more useful for fat bikes than the stock gearing usually is.

Don't post your email, phone, address, etc.. in a post. Do anything like that in PM, and carefully.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ... All you need to know - apart if exact parts to fit (which has to be measured to check your bike for model changes or different parts used) - is in this thread. Unfortunately, the forum paging changed, so the refernce links are all wrong; but, look at the first page of posts for some of the things to consider.
> ...


The first first post of this thread was updated to point out Recommended Upgrades, Popular Upgrades, and Also Done. 
The links are broken - search.

p.s.
Site search sucks. Use google to search mtbr.com.

p.s.s
Look at all the fat bikes at CT. Especially if there's a 27.5" rim instead of 26" - rubber just behaves better on them (less self stear). 
Talk to the department manager at CT and explain that you've been saving your snow shoveling money and ask if that bike will be going on sale.  One never knows unless one asks.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Canoe said:


> The first first post of this thread was updated to point out Recommended Upgrades, Popular Upgrades, and Also Done.
> The links are broken - search.
> 
> p.s.
> ...


It is from Canadian tire! Its got extremely good reviews on it, so when I get the oportunity in about march or april i'll let you guys in on it.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> ... If you've got any other advice or pictures of your dolos to share with me, go ahead! I will obviously set aside some dollars for grease and everything, but for now I need to plan.


You've got this huge thread to browse/search. 
Goto the first page and use the references there that pull your interest and search (for where they're located now...).

Crappy Tire has the grease. Before you ride it ever, you want to clear out and repack the bearings. You be filling their entire space so there's no room for water with salt to get in. You need the tools for the bearings. Same for getting YST bearings for the bottom bracket spindle. 
_Permatex Ultra Slick Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease_
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-12.html#post11662503

You'll be getting a can of Fluid Film (FF)($15 at crappy tire), to spray a shot inside the frame wherever you can to prevent rust. You will also be using it on your chain, after you wipe as much oil/grease off of the chain as possible. And on the gears. And possible a shot down the brake cables (if mechanical, which it highly likely is) and the shifting cables. Or pull the cables out and give them a wipe down with the FF. Wipe down the spokes & frame well, so it gets in any nooks and cranies. 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/anti-corrosion-product-shootout-1073581.html

If you find a different bike on sale, take photos of the whole bike, the closeup of gears, brakes, etc., and post and ask "what is it?" 
Crappy Tire has a half dozen fat models going in/out of stock in the store here in Ottawa.

Once you have a bike, post it's components and we can see what should be upgraded, or what can wait or what is fine. Some of the newer fat bikes have usable rubber, compared to the original Dolo rubber.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

So you've got time to watch for sales.

And you'll be buying at the end of the "fat bike" season as far as most people consider fat bikes. So the CT dept manager may be interested in clearing them out. I don't know how much discretion they have.

FF goes on sale for $10 a can from time to time. One can is enough for ages.

Maybe you can ask clients if they've got any old CT money they don't want.

The YST BSA "sealed" (it has a rubber seal) bearing & cup
Don't get it with a spindle. 
BSA ~= English threading BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW 
Should be ~$6 USD. Plus shipping, etc.. Can take time to get in, and can be shipped cheap from States by U.S. Postal Service (USPS). 
NEVER SHIP ANYTHING FROM THE STATES TO CANADA BY UPS. 
Or your LBS (local bike shop) should be able to get one in for you. Expect $10 to $20 CAD. Search this thread to get the part number and what the box looks like. Confirm with the seller that they're selling the same part.

Watch out for jerks like this one, for this $6 YST bearing for $101 CAD.
https://www.amazon.ca/YST-Sealed-Bearings-English-Threads/dp/B001CK0ETE

$8.99 USD ebay.ca (~11.80 CAD, shipping ~$14 CAD)
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YST-MTB...ottom-Bracket-Bearing-Kit-Chrome/362257042610

Quite often you can find a real store behind the ebay or amazon ads, and buy directly for less.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Lots of fuh fun - NOT!
The forum search returns page based links that don't work... 

But, I belive I've figured out the change in forum links from page based to post based addressing. So I'm updating the info links within the forum that appear on the early posts on page one of this thread.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> I'm planning on buying a dolomite. In canada, they call it the schwinn biggity DLX. Will post updates to it soon!


I was going back through posts. Apparently the Schwinn Biggity DLX is a Malus. 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/d...olomite-902410-post13409610.html#post13409610
So there will be differences, yet same same.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Canoe said:


> I was going back through posts. Apparently the Schwinn Biggity DLX is a Malus.
> https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/d...olomite-902410-post13409610.html#post13409610
> So there will be differences, yet same same.


If you wanna see it for yourself, here it is. The new model is black, although I might peel off the labels if I find them to look weird.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...-s-hardtail-mountain-bike-26-in-0711653p.html

I usually lurk through here to get ideas on tips and how I can customize my own bike in the future, as I've been waiting to get this for almost 2 years. Shovelling snow, I've made the money, but I'm going to wait til march since i'm about 100 dollars short.

I usually follow tips from this guy, he posts great tips and has all the videos I might need. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHHbBYZi_g4AsBkDzdr2Djg

As promised, I will post it when I get it! Thank you all for the tips.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ... Get the Costo Northrock 4" on 27.5" for $449.95 (CAD)...


Anyone considering the Northrock 4" fat, be aware there are two versions: 

one is *26"* rims & tires, 
the other is *27.5"* rims and tires. 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbikes-under-$1000-bucks-937739-6.html#post13976832


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## OrigamiFisherman (Feb 1, 2019)

Does anyone know where i can get a suspension fork (spring or air) for my mongoose dolomite UNDER $100?


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

Is there a place to buy the front and rear axle nuts besides calling Mongoose cust service? Thanks,
Felkers


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Axle nuts...available from multiple locations but I like the Problem Solvers pictured below and available from: https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/product/problem-solvers-axle-nut-182061-1.htm










Suspension Forks...going to be tough to get a decent fork for $100 but the Suntour XCR coil fork might come close. I have several and they work pretty good. If you can spend a little more the Suntour Raidon Air fork is nice...buy the new 32mm air cap with five volume spacers, it will allow you to tune the fork to your exact needs.


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

They show three sizes, so is ith the 3/8 size? Fit for both front and rear? thanks for the advice!!!
Felkers

Part Numbers
Option	UPC	MPN	Store SKU
10 x 1mm	708752026506	HU7100	
3/8 x 26 tpi	708752037267	HU7101	
9 x 1mm	708752037274	HU7102	PRO26696892T


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Felkers said:


> They show three sizes, so is ith the 3/8 size? Fit for both front and rear? thanks for the advice!!!
> Felkers
> 
> Part Numbers
> ...


Definitely not 10mm.

I am pretty sure the 9mm ones are what you want for both the front and the rear..definitely maybe. It has been a long time since I ordered them so I am going on memory.

Anybody else know for sure?


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

Anyone know the difference between Mongoose Dolomite and the Mongoose Hitch and Mongoose Malus? Thinking of getting a new bike and I can find the same price for all three of these. I have a three-year old Dolomite now.


Thanks,
Felkers


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Felkers said:


> Anyone know the difference between Mongoose Dolomite and the Mongoose Hitch and Mongoose Malus? Thinking of getting a new bike and I can find the same price for all three of these. I have a three-year old Dolomite now.
> 
> Thanks,
> Felkers


The difference is color...pick the one you think looks the best .

Has anybody else found any difference besides color?

Actually it is color and the Hitch has rims that have the big holes in them to make them lighter. The Malus and the Dolomite have solid rims.

Earlier versions of the Dolomite had a different frame spacing at the front of the rear tire...I believe they are all the same now.


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

*More info on ordering parts from Pacific Cycle*

I got a reply from Pacific Cycle and they have the axle nuts for $1.25 each. Darn cheap! I'm going to get a bunch of maintenance parts while I'm at it - maybe bottom bracket parts, cassette etc.

*UPDATE:
*
ordered lots of spare parts from Pacific Cycle. Very cheap prices. Got all the bottom bracket assy parts and a bunch of other stuff for about $75.00 shipped. Only thing I didn't like was their 26 x 4 Inner tube price ($22.25 each) These are way cheaper on Amazon (about $13.00)

Pacific Cycle is at: 800-626-2811 Monday-Friday 8am-5pm CST and you need the model info from the sticker on the bike. 
Looks like this:
Item R4144
Manuf date: FSD0715AG


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

I ride the heck out of a Dolomite - I wanted a big, heavy and stable bike for workout sessions! I actually have added weights on it. They are so cheap I can just get a new one if my old one breaks down! I am trying to keep my old one going though. Really enjoy the bike.


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## S_Antonovich (Jul 3, 2018)

This is my dolomite...i think. It was spray painted green and pink when i bought it and was told it was a schwinn biggity originally. Frame seems to look the same. I painted it (I'm an auto painter by trade), the frame is a honda blue and the rims are a custom high metallic and pearl that look very nice especially when the sun hits them. I built it up with a wide easton carbon bar, tektro novella brakes ($30 off kijiji), easton grips and some cheaper parts i had lying around the house. It looks like i may be getting a set of specialized ground control tires for $150 canadian which seems like a great deal. The chaoyang tires that came on it are quite worn.

as it sits now, i spent $180 CDN and it works great. that's including two innertubes.

my goal now is to just get it lighter over time as i need to replace stuff.

Have many people run a 4.6 tire? i couldn't find any info in this thread specifically regarding the ground controls. Tires in canada seem so much more expensive than what i see people paying in the states.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Felkers said:


> I ride the heck out of a Dolomite - I wanted a big, heavy and stable bike for workout sessions! I actually have added weights on it. They are so cheap I can just get a new one if my old one breaks down! I am trying to keep my old one going though. Really enjoy the bike.


Me too 15 more miles and I'll have 5,000 miles in 3 years of riding, some days it's very tough to pedal when the wind is blowing.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Finally got the biggity today. So many opportunities can come out of this. What do you guys think? Everything seems to be greased.









Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Tires....I ran a Maxxis FBR 26x4.80 on the rear of my Mongoose Hitch for a little while, not sure the Dolomite has the exact same frame spacing so be careful before you spend the money on a new tire. The 4.80 FBR was massive...actually too big for me. I went to a Maxxis 26x4.00 FBR and it works nicely.

Forks...you can get a Suntour XCR spring fork for not much over $100 if you shop around and the XCR air fork is a few dollars more BUT the biggest tire that will fit in it is a 27.5x2.80. I bought a front wheel for a Mongoose Terrex from Pacific Cycles...about $25 plus shipping and installed it along with the XCR spring fork. Works pretty good for me and the suspension fork really softens the ride compared to the rigid fork that came on the bike. The 27.5x2.8 front wheel/tire steers a lot easier than the fat tire but does not have the flotation that a fat tire has if you ride sand/snow.


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

Anyone try putting pedal extenders on one of the Mongoose fat bikes. I'm a little worried how the crank arms will hold up to that stress.....thanks Felkers.


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

You on the same tires all 5,000 or did you get new tires? What did you get if you got new ones?

Thanks,
Felkers


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> ... Everything seems to be greased.


oops
I missed this.

Many people report their Mongoose/Pacific/department-store bike arrives greased, but they find small (or large) metal particles in the grease. Which is why the recomendation remains to take every thing with a bearing or bushing apart, remove the grease, clean the surfaces, regrease and reassemble, so riding it doesn't trash the bearings or seats, etc.. Also this should be done before the bike is ever riden. Which is why you want one still in the box from the back and not the one they put together and rode around the back of the store before putting it out front...

So if you didn't do that, or if one is buying used, it's recomended to do that asap.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Felkers said:


> Anyone try putting pedal extenders on one of the Mongoose fat bikes. I'm a little worried how the crank arms will hold up to that stress.....thanks Felkers.


If it's the stock arms, it is a $40 bike (that's around what the factory gets).

If you're using non-stock quality crank arms, and aren't worried about an even wider Q-factor...


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## Felkers (Jun 3, 2019)

I think I'm good on the pedal extenders. I've been using them for about a month with no issues at all. The only extend the pedals out by 20 mm but it makes a big difference for me and keeps my knees away from the bike frame. Only about $15.00 for the extenders and well worth it!
Thanks,
Felkers


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## Greg 1966 (Aug 9, 2019)

Newbie here, I picked up a used Dolo cheap. The brakes are gone except for the rotor. Lever calipers everything. I have been reading the forum off and on for several days now. Y'all seem like good folks. I am 5'8" 225lb. I understand the stock brakes are crap. I need to get a new set up for the front and the rear. Rather than buy individual components, is it possible to find and a complete set r.e. levers, cables, calipers and rotors in one kit? from one manufacturer so it all works together? Want to set the Dolo up for street cruising and park riding. Asphalt, concrete, and packed dirt, some gravel and sand but no mountian down hills, to old for that. Thanks in advance.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Sure EBay has a lot of options with complete set ups. Search around because you can find them cheaper than the link I am giving you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-De...var=413866146652&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

With Shimano brakes the higher the first digit the better they are...i.e. 6000 is better than the 5000 series. This is a good opportunity to set up the levers on the sides you like as well i.e. I like my front brake on the right just like a motorcycle. Most US bikes have the front brake on the left. Definitely go hydraulic...the ONLY mechanical disc I would consider is the SRAM BB7 but for less money you can go hydraulic and have better brakes. The 6000 series Shimano is nice, the 5000 are pretty good, hit or miss with the 3000 series...some I have had work well, some not so good.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

I recommend the BB7, as they work great, but they're a pain to adjust and keep re-adjusting as the pads wear. And I have mods to take play out of the line for better modulation. Hmmm. Why do I keep recommending them... 

I can't recommend hydraulic, as I've never gone that route. And I like being able to repair most things about my brakes if something should ever happen out on the trail (but that's not your use). But I hear that most hydraulic don't have the issues I have with my BB7. If I had the bucks, I'd go for the mechanical TRP Spyke calipers, for super easy setup and great grip. But they're hard to find as more people go hydraulic - there must be a reason for that. 

Due to the weight/inertia of the spinning fat wheels, I would recommend getting MTB brakes, not road brakes. Whatever you do don't mix MTB & road brake components. 

If you had parts available from a bike co-op, that would be a way to save some bucks. But if you can afford new, remember that bad brakes could cost you your life. 
Note that often last years model of brake components or sets can be found at huge discounts. Often the only change in product is colour or the box they come in. 
And my fat LBS often has stuff in their basement, old stock or new ordered-in but not picked up, for less than online prices, and often their regular stock prices are same or less than online, with no shipping wait nor cost. 

p.s.
As you're new to a Dolo, and hence probably to fat bikes, upgraded tires over Dolo stock tires, even cheap fat bike tires, can make a huge improvement in ride and enjoyment. Same for lighter tubes. Same for a lot of things. Check the first page for a lot of popular things people have done.


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## Greg 1966 (Aug 9, 2019)

Just a quick question on my Dolo. Is there any place where there is a parts list or part diagram with part descriptions, specs, and part numbers. A service manual? I saw canoes list for part weights. I bet most of that info is in this forum somewhere. I just got a beat to **** dolo with a good frame, wheels, and tires. I feel like I am lost in the dark and relying on you kind folks to provide me with the info I could get from a simple 1 or 2 page document or spend hours looking for this forum for each part i need. I love this forum and am learning for it all the time, but frankly the search sucks. So I want to find a list, manual, diagram of the stock parts with part numbers or dimensions used on a stock dolo. This bike is going to need a lot of new components but without a guide is just feel lost. Yes I can measure everything with calipers and I will but I dont know what is stock on the DOB. Help!


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Greg 1966 said:


> ... Is there any place where there is a parts list or part diagram with part descriptions, specs, and part numbers. A service manual? ... So I want to find a list, manual, diagram of the stock parts with part numbers or dimensions used on a stock dolo. This bike is going to need a lot of new components but without a guide is just feel lost. Yes I can measure everything with calipers and I will but I dont know what is stock on the DOB. Help!


Not that I've ever seen.
If the bottom bracket or spindle is toast, I'd suggest you get the cartridge & swept crank arms that is documented more towards the end of this thread. 
The site's internal search is often useless. Use google to search the site.forum.

But, you may be near or dead in the water, if the hubs are trashed: bearings, seats, axle. You need to find replacements with 36 spokes. Or order Dolo hubs from Pacific Cycles. Which means you'd have the rear freewheel hubs that have a soft axle and are prone to bending (if you're a clyde, like to punch the cranks, or like jumps, or sometimes, it just happens). At 225 lbs., I'd guess that at some point you can expect to replace any new stock hubs you buy due to a bent axle.

So address the hubs first. Before you spend any money. If you can't solve that for reasonable dollars, ...


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

Definitely a hassle to go tubeless with the stock wheels and tires but it is possible. Probably not the 'right' way of doing it but my aim was to simply get rid of my tubes to simplify and mitigate risks on my rides. Also, tubes cost a lot, are heavy, and I got two tube flats.

The things I used beyond what one would normally use to go tubeless are:
compressor
super glue
window seal / weatherstrip - to help the tire keep it's form and seat the 'bead'

Here is the method I used:

remove wheel, tire, and tube
remove and cut down existing rim strip closer to each spoke (bout a half inch on each side) - this doesn't have to be exact, I just tried to make sure each spoke was covered by the strip
clean wheel and strip thoroughly and let dry
super *glue* the line where the wheel meets, inside and out and let cure
replace rim strip and align the valve hole with the wheel valve hole
using gorilla tape - I used the widest rolls I could find - tape the entire circumference of the barrel where the rim strip sits. I did one pass on the left, one on the right, and one in the middle for each wheel and I did not tape any of the bead seat or wheel lip
poke the valve hole in the tape
I then ran a few more tape strips around the area of the valve hole (left, right, center - about 12" each) to raise that area up - the valve hole is much bigger than a presta valve which is what I used for my tubeless setup. I think I used at least 1 1/2 rolls of tape total
find some rubber *window seal / weatherstrip* (not the foam looking stuff) and run strips on either side of the barrel as close to the bead seat as possible
it may help to super glue the weatherstrip in place and wait for it to cure just to be sure it won't unstick (this happened once while I in the process and I had to reapply the weatherstrip). If you choose not to super glue (that's a lot of glue) just press it down well and let it sit for a day
I now replaced the tubes and tires and aired them up to 30psi and rode them like that for a few days in the hopes they would seat easier when I removed the tubes
carefully remove the tube from one side of the wheel, insert a presta valve (core removed) and remount the tire
soap it up real well with soapy water and give a blast of air from a compressor
if it seats and holds air, let it air down and pour about 4oz of sealant in it (I used the syringe method so I didn't have to mess with the tire) and give it another blast of compressed air
if it doesn't seat, lather the bead and sidewall with more soapy water and try again...
once the tire seats and holds air insert the valve core, shake/roll it around and air up to 15-20psi
get the wheel back on the bike and ride it around for a bit then leave it to check the pressure in the morning.

What a hassle... but worth it. I run my tires around 10-12 psi right now and I've found that they do not leak in an amount that my floor pump can measure


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Wow!

Congrats!

Size of that rubber window-seal/weather-strip?

I hope you have photos of that setup before the tire got put back on...
I'd love to see them.

Two cautions:

Gorilla Tape - very variable results with that product. 
- Can't figure out if it's old stock, heat-damaged stock, counterfeit product or just a wide QA acceptance that leads to its adhesive letting go. 
- Check the tubeless tape thread for a better choice if your rolls fail over time in heat or contact with the sealant. 
Super Glue - known to be brittle and fail with vibration/stress. 
- I used JBWeld to seal my rim seams, which seems good, but I'm thinking perhaps the rubber-roughened super glue is a better choice.


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

I thought about buying tape made specifically for tubeless setups but I already had the gorilla tape as well as super glue in the garage so I gave those a try on my front wheel. Thanks for the suggestions, if my setup goes south I'll consider these options after I tear down to investigate the point of failure.

I think I ended up buying weatherstrip that was 1/4" x 5/16" but I would suggest buying a weatherstrip that is as tall as possible if going this route. Also, in my picture I feel I could have saved myself some trouble by placing the weatherstrip even closer to the flange/bead seat. The idea of holding the bead close to the seat does help with this size wheel and tire combination though.


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

Also, just an aside, this is an example of the weatherstrip not to use:








It's more like a foam and it absorbs any sealant (or other liquids) in the tire and effectively prevents it from doing its job. So if anyone attempts this, learn from my mistakes and use the tallest and densest weatherstrip you can find.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

usuallypanda said:


> ... I think I ended up buying weatherstrip that was 1/4" x 5/16" but I would suggest buying a weatherstrip that is as tall as possible if going this route. Also, in my picture I feel I could have saved myself some trouble by placing the weatherstrip even closer to the flange/bead seat. The idea of holding the bead close to the seat does help with this size wheel and tire combination though.


Thanks for those photos. Now I understand what you meant by rubber weatherstrip.

I've even looked into making a bead seat. 
- Aluminum tube epoxied into place similar to your weatherstrip, and 
- then an epoxy/micro-bead slurry to fill between the tube and the rim to make a seat/shelf for the bead; alternately, a bonding silicone caulk.

I went as far as getting the aluminum tube, but then discovered that the hardware stores no longer carry the 24-hour-cure epoxies, just 3 to 5 minutes cure products, which will release under heat...
The rubber-toughened super glue may work for that, but I'd prefer an appropriate epoxy due to the rim's thermal cycling and resulting expansion/contraction.

Another option I was considering is structural spray foam to fill the whole space across between the opposing bead seats, then trim it down by the seats to make a channel, with the channel & flat skim coated with an expoxy/micro-bead slurry to toughen and seal the foam surface.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

usuallypanda said:


> Also, just an aside, this is an example of the weatherstrip not to use:
> View attachment 1280095
> 
> It's more like a foam and it absorbs any sealant (or other liquids) in the tire and effectively prevents it from doing its job. So if anyone attempts this, learn from my mistakes and use the tallest and densest weatherstrip you can find.


Others have tried that type of foam, or even pool-noodles, with a sealing layer of tape/wrap over top, but found that it compresses over time and doesn't do the job they'd expected.


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

Canoe said:


> Thanks for those photos. Now I understand what you meant by rubber weatherstrip.
> 
> I've even looked into making a bead seat.
> - Aluminum tube epoxied into place similar to your weatherstrip, and
> ...


Your aluminum tubing idea sounds interesting. I doubt I would have thought of that. I briefly thought about using spray foam since I have a couple cans laying around but decided it would be a little messy and I didn't want to do any foam sculpting at the time. I honestly hadn't thought about the sealant being absorbed by the materials I was working with so that threw me for a loop when my rear wheel failed to seal properly.

I also briefly thought about what it would take to engineer beadlocks into the wheels but after taking a few measurements I dismissed the idea (not to mention the added weight and crazy cost for materials). The 100mm wheel is sort of an oddball and I can imagine how easy it would be to go tubeless with a narrower wheel but tinkering is fun so I can't complain.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

On the 50 mm rim, I just throw a 20" tube on it and that inflates and pushes the beads onto the seats. Needs a second valve & hole to get air into the tire (maybe there'd be enough for winter float if I used a 26" MTB tube that also expanded outwards more... haven't tried).

I thought about trying that with the 100 mm rim and three or four 20" tubes, but didn't.

The aluminum tube could even be deformed some to fit closer to the seat; it won't be taking any meaningful load.

It could even be cut in half down it's length, and glued in curve inwards, then using a piece of wood one could bend the raised end towards the seat, then fill between it and the rim to make a ledge for the bead to sit on.

Anyone wanting to bond such aluminum, remember a light sand to remove the aluminum-oxide before you bond. Wet sand with acetone works well.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Canoe said:


> ... It could even be cut in half down it's length, and glued in curve inwards, then using a piece of wood one could bend the raised end towards the seat, then fill between it and the rim to make a ledge for the bead to sit on.


Or with the right size, just squish the tube to better fit.

Cut in half (and debur & sand), to minimize material use/cost.


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## Greg 1966 (Aug 9, 2019)

Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

Greg 1966 said:


> Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?


Do you have the right size and the right number of bearings?
Is the seat trashed?
From my answer to you above...


Canoe said:


> ... But, you may be near or dead in the water, if the hubs are trashed: bearings, seats, axle. You need to find replacements with 36 spokes. Or order Dolo hubs from Pacific Cycles. Which means you'd have the rear freewheel hubs that have a soft axle and are prone to bending (if you're a clyde, like to punch the cranks, or like jumps, or sometimes, it just happens). At 225 lbs., I'd guess that at some point you can expect to replace any new stock hubs you buy due to a bent axle.
> 
> So address the hubs first. Before you spend any money. If you can't solve that for reasonable dollars, ...


I don't recall ever seeing anyone post the bearing count nor size.
I'd take the whole wheel in to the LBS to get bearings. If you have it nice and grease free, they'll see the bearing seat and likely tell you if it's shot. New hub time.

If the rear is fine, you might be able to get the front running by replacing its bearings. It _might_ be more economical to order a new front hub from Pacific, so you know the hub should be good. But you have to know how to build a wheel (and tighten and stress it properly) (or pay someone). If you're a gentle rider, you're likely to get reasonable life out of a stock front hub.

At your weight, I would NOT recommend a stock hub for the rear, as it is most likely inevitable that the rear stock axle will bend... If there's an issue with the rear, you're looking at finding a workable replacement hub, or more likely the smarter move is a new rear wheel with easier to obtain parts. And then, stick with freewheel or go to freehub & cassette?
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dolo-semi-wild-mongoose-dolomite-902410-15.html#post13600347


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

Greg 1966 said:


> Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?


In my infinite wisdom I forgot to measure the bearings when I had the wheels off but I did count them.
I counted 9 bearings in the back and 8 in the front (on each side, so per hub 18 and 16 respectively), though it looked like the front should have had 9 as well. I should be able to get bearing measurements when I take the wheels off this weekend. If you beat me to it, post it up.

Maybe Canoe will update the informational thread with this new data


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

> _Ok this bike is a mess. Need front wheel bearing size and count please. Went to LBS and took bearings with me. Used what they gave me, seems to be a lot of slop and wheel doesn't run smooth. Help?_


Looks like the hub and bottom bracket bearing size is 1/4" ( don't have a set of calipers )


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

My front wheel was rough too, but it was because of a defect in the bearing race.


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## usuallypanda (Sep 4, 2019)

leaftye said:


> My front wheel was rough too, but it was because of a defect in the bearing race.


What did you do? Or did you resolve the problem somehow?


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## leaftye (Dec 27, 2007)

usuallypanda said:


> What did you do? Or did you resolve the problem somehow?


I can't fix something like that without replacing parts, so I ordered a front hub motor kit. In retrospect, I should have returned the bike since even if I still made it an ebike, a mid drive or rear hub motor would have been better. Now if I decide I want to convert to that, I still have to build or buy a new front wheel.


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## klunky chris (Dec 13, 2019)

Has anyone found a source for a 110mm cartridge bottom bracket? My new black/blue Dolo has the wider bottom bracket and I haven’t found anything anywhere....


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

klunky chris said:


> Has anyone found a source for a 110mm cartridge bottom bracket? My new black/blue Dolo has the wider bottom bracket and I haven't found anything anywhere....


I haven't heard of that. 
May be easier to get a LBS, bike mechanic or bike maker to trim the shell down to 100 mm. Then you can get the cartridge others here have used, along with swept out crank arms so you can clear the chain-stays.

The cut-down could be done with a metal-cutting wheel on your tool of choice (but it would be a long job with a Dremel). Go for 101 mm, a little at a time so you don't overheat the metal & paint that's remaining, and use something to protect the rest of the bike. Then get the shell faced square with the proper facing tool. The facing tool is too expensive to buy for a one-time use, and not many bike mechanics have one. But someone near you must have one and can do that part of the job. You may need to extend the tap into the shell some more for the threads on the cartridge.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

This was my bike when it was new









Bike after handlebar swap and seat replacement

Hi all, it's been a few months since I posted here but if you scroll down to about June you'll be able to see my first post here about my bike. I've made a few upgrades to my biggity (Canadian version of dolo), including a better seat and handlebars.

I'm 14, about to be 15 so I don't have a lot of money but I have saved up enough to buy an air fork. I'm in Canada, could anyone recommend any fat tire air forks in the 100 range?

I've been looking at this one. Yes, I am aware that it's a Chinese brand, but it suits my needs and as long as it does the job I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.ca/RONSHIN-Alumi...ds=bolany+fat+bike+fork&qid=1580059884&sr=8-5

I can't exactly spend 300+ dollars because I don't have 300 dollars, I have a savings of about 80 and the opportunity is coming next weekend to buy the fork.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> ... but it suits my needs and as long as it does the job I'm happy with it. ...


I'd hate to start a poll on how long people think a $100 fork will last. 
See if you can google to find actual owners.

Have you measured:

the width of your rims,
the width of your tires,
the height or radius of your tires.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Tires are 4.0 Chaoyang tires, rims are 100mm. The fork itself fits the length of the stock fork so i won't need to cut anything. 

I'm obviously going to keep the other fork incase anything goes wrong.
Most of the reviews i've seen have been good, and that there aren't any issues they've had.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> Tires are 4.0 Chaoyang tires, rims are 100mm.
> ...
> Most of the reviews i've seen have been good, and that there aren't any issues they've had.


Again, have you _MEASURED_?

Reviews on amazon where you'll give them your money, or elsewhere around the net?


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Reviews from all around, amazon and different websites they sell it on


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> Reviews from all around, amazon and different websites they sell it on


As in, only places they sell it on?

And, have you actually measured?


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Do you mean the width of the tire or the size of the tire?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

snowymountains24 said:


> Do you mean the width of the tire or the size of the tire?


Sizes are nominal, not exact.

A tire will have a different profile on different rims, and depending on how much pressure is in it, and sometimes how old it is. The tire is likely wider than the rim, but some tires _just_ fit on a wide rim. Same for the effective diameter/radius.

You need to actually measure:

the rim width, 
the tire width at its widest (and at your street inflation pressure and at your lowest trail riding pressure - see which is widest), and
the tire diameter/radius, again at your inflation min/max (measuring diameter at the horizontal and halving that can be easier than measuring from centre of axle - you'll see which is easier for you). 

You want to compare those measurements to the fork measurements to ensure you've got clearance for the width of the tire (rim is likely fine, given the 135 mm and fork design) and that the tire will clear the cross piece on the fork. And the clearance between the front axle centre to the top of the forks.

For future use, you should also measure the clearance between the tire and the chain stays and seat stays and seat tube, and the max width between the stays (where the tires is) and the min radius between the axle centre and the seat tube. That's the maximums for the rear tire.

You're likely fine on width, but be sure. You're not likely to need a wider tire to try and float on top of sand or snow where you are. 3.8" will usually fit on 100 mm rims, but a wider tire has a nicer profile and can be inflated into a rounder shape for street use. Consider what tires you'd be likely to get when your current ones wear out.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

I bought the fork, but as an experiment to see how long it'll last. Video below explains:


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Ended up not buying the fork, seller had too many sketchy reviews and i'd rather just buy it from the company themselves, which is fulfilled by amazon. Keep in mind i'm not exactly a MTB'er. I use my bike for commute and I dont have much money at the moment. I've been needing shifters for a while and some new grips since the ones that came stock on the bike are uncomfortable. The grip shifter works but I always end up accidentally shifting all the time while going on trails. Trigger shifters fix that problem, at least.

In the meantime, I bought a few things, some new shifters, brake levers (I've put the levers on but not the shifter, I'm sort of inexperinced with shifter installation and while I know it's probably not hard I'll have my local bike shop install it for 20 dollars) and i'm expecting some grips and a new handlebar stem to come tomorrow.

I'll need to wait for a while before I can save up another 160 since i've already got 30 in my account, but for right now i'll have to wait. I'm slowly making upgrades as I go

Heres some of the stuff I ordered:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MD4NNT3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C5CROUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00288JJQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MW64D8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not much, but it'll be better than what I've got now. I'll update you guys soon when I eventually do order the fork in about 2 months from now.


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## KillerAJD (Jun 23, 2020)

Hey there All,

Did about 500 miles on my Malus the last few months, but wasn't paying complete attention to maintenance, and the crank arm threads on the non-drive side of my bottom bracket spindle(?) are shot. Tried tapping new threads, but that didn't last long. I'm not able to find anywhere that sells some kind of direct replacement, and some advice I saw on contacting Mongoose directly hasn't got me very far as they are currently extremely backlogged on support right now. Does anybody know of a direct replacement that can be purchased somewhere outside of Mongoose? Hopefully on Amazon/Ebay? I'm open to other, smaller online stores though. Still learning on bike stuff, so I'm not sure what will/won't work.

The bottom bracket shell (again, not sure if that's exactly what it's called? Just going off context on the original post in this thread) looks to be 110mm, but I don't currently have the crank arms off so i don't know the exact spindle length (I can pull stuff apart and get that if needed).

Any help is appreciated. I was planning on upgrading to a non-fat tire hardtail and just keeping the Malus around for family/screwing around, but bike inventory has been decimated by Covid, so I'm having to make do with what I've got currently.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

KillerAJD said:


> ... the crank arm threads on the non-drive side of my bottom bracket spindle(?) are shot. ...
> The bottom bracket shell (again, not sure if that's exactly what it's called? Just going off context on the original post in this thread) looks to be 110mm, ...


Getting a spindle that fits, let alone quality, is difficult. The stock is a metal that is, well, too soft; known for wearing and bending. At one point I think someone was machining them out of a decent metal for ~$110.

Your best bet is a replacement cartridge and new crank arms. The cartridge is a lot shorter than the stock spindle (~BB width plus length to attach crank arms), so you need swept crank arms so they sweep outwards and clear the chain stays and your heels clear the chain stays.

Start at the end of this thread and work backwards to find the posts that detail the cartridge that works and the swept crank arms that work. Nothing wrong with used arms from a bike co-op, etc.. This is the time to get same length, shorter or longer to better match your needs.

Make sure you measure the bottom bracket shell correctly. 
If it's too long for the known cartridge, you can get the shell cut down and re-faced and tapped for the cartridge size that is known to work with the swept arms. That job is easy - IF you have the correct facing tool. They are not cheap. Not common even at bike shops. A bike builder should have the tool, but they build bikes not repair them, and may not want the liability of trimming and refacing the shell to make it square on a low end POS bike fearing they get blamed for problems with the bike.


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## Thorack (Jun 24, 2020)

Well,

Howdy all. Got my Dolomite on 3 JUN 2020 and finaly have it setup pretty well with the advice on here. 

New YST BB, new Shimano hydraulic brakes and 180 rotors, new Shimano 7 gear w/Mega range setup, new 32t Suntour crankset, new head set, new Shimano trigger shifter, new stem 38.1 and 110m long, new 800mm w75mm rise handle bar, new Fooker pedals, and cheapo handgrips.

I'm 325lbs and she rides like a dream with the stock seat. 

I bought a bunch of Chinese Sealed BB to try out. The 100x177 I know wont work and I havent yet tried the 110x167. 

Regreased everything and found the ball bearing races in the wheels were well greased but the BB was dry as a bone. 

Had to take it to the LBS to get the head set put in and the brakes bled after I shortened them. Guys at the store thought it was a great looking bike. They sell mostly Specialzed stuff, and not cheaply.

Just giving a shout out to all those here providing great info. THANKS

Thorack


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## KillerAJD (Jun 23, 2020)

Canoe said:


> Getting a spindle that fits, let alone quality, is difficult. The stock is a metal that is, well, too soft; known for wearing and bending. At one point I think someone was machining them out of a decent metal for ~$110.
> 
> Your best bet is a replacement cartridge and new crank arms. The cartridge is a lot shorter than the stock spindle (~BB width plus length to attach crank arms), so you need swept crank arms so they sweep outwards and clear the chain stays and your heels clear the chain stays.
> 
> ...


Gotcha, I appreciate the info! I'll start searching through the thread for cartridges/swept crank arms that'll work.

EDIT: Just wanted to update in case people are needing something similar to myself. Went through the thread a bit, and found a possible cartridge set that might work, but the listing has changed, and the measurements didn't seem like they'd work (the shell on my bike is indeed 110mm, vs the more part-friendly(?) 100mm). Currently would be a pain to get the shell faced, and timewise, it would be a bit before that could happen, and I really wanted the bike back up and running ASAP. I also have yet to hear anything from Mongoose, so even if I wanted to just buy the stock part, I can't currently.

Managed to find a company online located in Washington state selling the whole bottom bracket assembly for (relatively?) cheap at $25+shipping. Found it at Sickbikeparts.com (https://sickbikeparts.com/bottom-bracket-cartridge-170mm-fat-tire-bike-83-110mm-bb/). The listing noted it as a cartridge bb, but the photos made it look almost identical to what was in the bike already. It seems like this online shop is more for parts putting small engines on bikes, but the bb setup looked like it would fit just fine (and the spindle is actually even a bit wider, which I was fine with).

As a note, I did find another company seemingly selling the same thing, but it was like $10 more expensive, so I just ordered the cheaper one, and I don't have a link to the other site I found it unfortunately.

Anyways, shipping was quick since I'm relatively close, and I got the part in the other day. It kind of shocked me though, because it didn't look like what I had ordered/expected. Instead, it didn't have any surfaces for the ball bearings/bearing cage to push up against, and the diameter was the same along the entire thing until it tapered to the square crank ends. It did look like it was potentially two pieces? But the darker end may just be machined differently? Not sure. It ALSO came with sealed bearings installed already. Finally, the cups clearly used a different tool to install then what was on there initially (which was also different from the YST sealed cupset that I had put on a bit ago). Turns out, it uses a 20-spline bb remover tool (the Park tool I grabbed was the BBT-22).

Pulled the original bb apart, cleaned it up, greased the stuff, and went to install the new one when I got to the non-drive side and realized it didn't come with a lock ring. Not sure if this is intentional, or you are expected to have one, but I just used the one that was on the previous bb cup and put it together. The ad also shows spacers, I think(?), and it didn't come with those either.

Haven't taken it for a spin yet as I need to install a new rear axle I bought awhile back as well, but it seems to work fine? No idea how long it will last or if I did something wrong/this part actually won't work, but if it at least limps the bike along a bit longer until I can get something else and keep this as a spare, that'll be fine. It pedals smooth with no load, and there's zero play without having to fuss around like with the previous cup/cone bb. I also ordered a second one yesterday to install on my brothers Dolomite if his spindle takes itself out.

Image links if attachments don't work:
https://i.imgur.com/h1mCy2w.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0qgEFWH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RojnaV5.jpg


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## Sir8alot (Jul 4, 2020)

My Dolomite cruiser


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## dj_elite (Aug 7, 2020)

KillerAJD said:


> Gotcha, I appreciate the info! I'll start searching through the thread for cartridges/swept crank arms that'll work.
> 
> EDIT: Just wanted to update in case people are needing something similar to myself. Went through the thread a bit, and found a possible cartridge set that might work, but the listing has changed, and the measurements didn't seem like they'd work (the shell on my bike is indeed 110mm, vs the more part-friendly(?) 100mm). Currently would be a pain to get the shell faced, and timewise, it would be a bit before that could happen, and I really wanted the bike back up and running ASAP. I also have yet to hear anything from Mongoose, so even if I wanted to just buy the stock part, I can't currently.
> 
> ...


any updates on this bottom bracket?


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## KillerAJD (Jun 23, 2020)

dj_elite said:


> any updates on this bottom bracket?


Yeah, sorry! Seems to work fine if you install it correctly. You do indeed need to reuse the lock ring from the stock BB (or acquire a new one I guess?). At the time, when I installed it, I wasn't even thinking and continued to screw in the cup until the face of the cup was INSIDE the BB, which pushed the bearing in. This meant the bearing was only halfway inside the cup when I backed the cup out to where it needed to be (there's nothing on the spindle itself that stops the bearing from moving, other than it being press fit on). I thought it would be fine so I left the bearing where it was, but soon after it slipped outside of the cup and was loose. Pulled the spindle out, put it in a vise, and gently pushed the bearing back out to where it needed to be and reinstalled it and it's doing great.

Ended up not putting as many miles on it (only about 100) as I thought I would though, because soon after I managed to purchase a hardtail mtb, so I've been riding that instead. If you are just wanting to replace the stock part with something seemingly equivalent at worst, and possibly a bit better at best, then it seems to be a perfect solution.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Hey guys, its been a few months. I took a chance and bought the fork. Took two months to arrive and put it on last thursday. Works great, but can't ride the bike at the moment because I need new brake cables and housing and I'm waiting for them to come.








before









after

Buying new tires in a few days. Schwalbe jumbo jim liteskin set for 125 from someone. Thats a great deal, I think, considering one of the tires go for more than 130. Eventually might buy new seat, seatpost, brake caliper, ETC. Can't do anything with back brake until I get stripped torx key screw off. Then I'll worry about it later.


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## JackOfDiamonds (Apr 17, 2020)

So is this bike still available anywhere?

Even in the pacific cycles website it's not featured. Is it discontinued forever, and if so what's the next best thing?


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

JackOfDiamonds said:


> So is this bike still available anywhere?
> Even in the pacific cycles website it's not featured. Is it discontinued forever, and if so what's the next best thing?


In Canada, I saw a bike in Crappy Tire from Pacific Cycles (source of Dolo) that is somewhat more than a Dolo. Instead of gears suitable for cruising, it has better gearing, much closer to what one expects on a "real" fat bike (but don't expect any miracles). It had better components but off the top of my head I'm not remembering what they were. Unlike a Dolo, there was nothing that needed to be upgraded to ride it like a fat bike. So slightly better quality, but still a budget bike. I have no idea what the brand/model name that bike gets in the States or elsewhere.

I would assume there's the same caution to try and buy one in a box, instead of assembled by someone making minimum wage in a department style store, and BEFORE you ever ride it, take the wheel bearings and bottom bracket apart and clean and regrease to ensure there is no debris or metal particles left in there from manufacture.

Next step up from there, is the Northrock fat bike at Costco. 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbikes-under-$1000-bucks-937739-3.html#post13320441
Some posts on the web claim some of its components can't be upgraded, but they're all better quality than what is on the Dolo, Malus and the one I saw above. Some people dis their quality, but my nephew is a Clyde and got their Northrock 29er and loves it (after wheel properly tensioned and he got my large pedals).

For other options, check the Fat Bikes under $1,000 thread
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbikes-under-$1000-bucks-937739-3.html
Some people haven't been posting sub $1,000 bikes under there, so also browse the first two or three pages of this forum to see if anything looks promising.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Can anyone tell me the Head Tube Angle on the Mongoose Hitch?

Or the Dolomite...since they may be very close?

I called Pacific Cycles and they didn't know :eekster:. 

Thanks


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

*Dolo coming in the mail soon*

First time posting. Recently bought a dolomite from Walmart online for around $260, I expect it to arrive this weekend. In preparation I've been bouncing around on this thread. It seems an overwhelming majority of you have done the YST bearings upgrade. Unfortunately, it seems these are now discontinued. I think I saw one listed on eBay for $99 but otherwise they are nowhere to be found.

Am I mistaken? Is there still a source for these, or is there an equivalent?

I may also have some questions about some salvage equipment I have lying around. I have an old Specialized comfort bike that I am already salvaging for parts. It's a 3x8 24-speed, with combo Alivio v-brake lever and shifters, an Acera FD and a Deore RD. I was considering moving all of that to the Dolo and getting the recommended Shimano crank and the Sunrace 11-34T 8-speed megarange freewheel. Any concerns come to mind or anything I ought to watch for? I'm pretty sure the v-brake levers will be fine with the mechanical disc brakes, probably most worried about if it's possible to mount the FD anywhere and where to put the cables (since I don't yet have the bike in front of me). I can post pictures of what's currently on the Specialized if it helps. The bike is probably 15 years old or so.


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

tastysurprise said:


> Recently bought a dolomite from Walmart online for around $260, I expect it to arrive this weekend.
> 
> ...
> 
> I have an old Specialized comfort bike that I am already salvaging for parts. It's a 3x8 24-speed, with combo Alivio v-brake lever and shifters, an Acera FD and a Deore RD. I was considering moving all of that to the Dolo and getting the recommended Shimano crank and the Sunrace 11-34T 8-speed megarange freewheel.


The bike arrived yesterday. Before that, I already knew I wanted a 3x8 setup (I was following "Reid's build") so I went ahead and got the 175 42-32-22 crankset he used, but I went with the Sunrace freewheel. I realized I couldn't use my salvaged front derailleur so I found a good used one matching Reid's on eBay, and got the mount he used from ModernBikes.com. I believe I can still salvage the rear derailleur.

The first thing I decided to do was overhaul the headset. I quickly realized that I wanted to replace it... it more or less fell apart in my hands after removing the stem and spacers. So I got a "FSA The Pig 1-1/8 Threadless Headset" from Walmart for around $25.

Then I got a 110mm adjustable stem that would take my 1" handlebar from the other bike (it's not the greatest handlebar but it saves me some effort moving all the shifters, levers and grips that I wanted to salvage). I also went ahead and got the bottom bracket from Sick Bike Parts referenced above, since the YST bearings seem to be nowhere to be found.

I'm still not sure how I'm going to route the cable for the front derailleur but I'll figure something out. I also had to pick up a couple tools but I won't count that towards the total cost of the bike, which is now going to be $499 once it's all put together. It feels a little funny buying a bike and replacing pretty much everything but the tires (which I will probably replace), wheels, fork, brakes (not sure, might replace) and frame. But in the end it's still half what any other decent fat bike would cost (hell, even just one decent tubeless wheel is often seen for $300), and it's going to be a fun project. Wish me luck.

BTW I got the bike from Walmart but according to the label on the box, it was shipped directly from Pacific Cycles.


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## Canoe (May 10, 2011)

tastysurprise said:


> ... It seems an overwhelming majority of you have done the YST bearings upgrade. Unfortunately, it seems these are now discontinued. I think I saw one listed on eBay for $99 but otherwise they are nowhere to be found.
> Am I mistaken? Is there still a source for these, or is there an equivalent?. ...


I haven't gone looking lately, so I'm surprised to hear they're not all over still.

But, and I wish you'd read this before going with the triple front. A real cartridge BB seems to be the longest lasting way to go, and have a strong spindle/"axle". We don't know how strong the parts _you_ get from _your_ SickBike's purchase. Let us know how it works out. And post any photos you took of what parts arrived.


----------



## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

It seems the community has cooled some since the last time I was in here. I just measured my Dolomite's BB...the blue metal part looks to be 106mm...I thought the Dolomite BBs were either 100mm or 110mm. Any suggestions? Am I measuring it wrong?


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Pack66 said:


> It seems the community has cooled some since the last time I was in here. I just measured my Dolomite's BB...the blue metal part looks to be 106mm...I thought the Dolomite BBs were either 100mm or 110mm. Any suggestions? Am I measuring it wrong?


Found another 100x177 BB on Amazon that gets good reviews, most of which mention the Dolomite.


https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY1-Bracket-BSA-Innenlager-100177mm-100177MM/dp/B07R6GTLJ2/


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

tastysurprise said:


> Found another 100x177 BB on Amazon that gets good reviews, most of which mention the Dolomite.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/VGEBY1-Bracket-BSA-Innenlager-100177mm-100177MM/dp/B07R6GTLJ2/


Thanks for the information, I have seen that BB on Aliexpress, but wasn't sure if it would work because it's 100x177. Sounds like it barely hits the chainstay, so either new crank arms to go with it...or look for 100x(something more than 177).

With the new look to MTBR, it's hard to search a specific thread anymore. Thanks again!


----------



## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Pack66 said:


> With the new look to MTBR, it's hard to search a specific thread anymore. Thanks again!


If you are in the thread, just go to the top of the search, and start typing... it should give you three options, one of which is to search within your current discussion thread.


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Pack66 said:


> Thanks for the information, I have seen that BB on Aliexpress, but wasn't sure if it would work because it's 100x177. Sounds like it barely hits the chainstay, so either new crank arms to go with it...or look for 100x(something more than 177).


Sounds like one review did say that, others had a different opinion. I wasn't sure if the reviewer who "shimmed" his was using stock crank arms, and his Dolomite is quite old (he mentioned 2009). Many of the reviews of successful installations are quite recent, within the last few months, so I'm assuming they apply to more recently-made Dolomites as well (of which mine is one).


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

JackOfDiamonds said:


> So is this bike still available anywhere?
> 
> Even in the pacific cycles website it's not featured. Is it discontinued forever, and if so what's the next best thing?


My first post, not sure if this answers the question. I've looked at the fat tires for quite a while. I purchased a mongoose dolomite through Walmart at the begining of December. I upgraded the pedals and the saddle, I had no intention that it would be a luxury bike, just something to have some fun in snow and around here on flat singletrack. So far so good, worth the $260


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Update on my "project" so far.

Ended up going ahead and getting the 100x177 BB that I linked above from Amazon. So I had both the Sick Bike parts BB and that one, and could compare. I decided to try to install the cartridge BB first, since the 177mm axle was a bit longer than the 170mm of the Sick Bike part.

The axle is plenty long... however the cartridge is too short. As I screwed in the non-drive side support cup, it moved deep within the frame before becoming flush with the bearing. In fact I was able to take a second cup from the Sick Bike part, and screw it in on top of the other one, so that I could get a lock nut on there. Even still, it seems very strong and smooth and might still be preferable to installing the Sick Bike part. I can always go back to it if some disaster happens.

Once I put the Shimano cranks on, I had 2cm clearance on the non-drive side, and 2.5cm clearance on the drive side, to the chainstay. If I had used the Sick Bike part instead, I probably would have had 1.7cm on the drive side. This seems to be a ton of room.

Attaching a couple pictures. First one shows the crank installed on the BB, with the front derailleur attached using the direct mount clamp. I also have bear claw pedals I had lying around put on the cranks (the color is an awful mismatch to the blue but who cares).










Next one shows the handlebar, grips, and combo shifter/brake levers I salvaged, and put on the adjustable stem. Also shows the upgraded headset.










While I'm at it, here is the rear derailleur I salvaged:










I overhauled the front wheel hub. Only things left to do are to overhaul the rear hub and replace the freewheel with the Sunrace mega range, reattach the chain (hope it's long enough) then run all the cables and tune it up. The freewheel removal tool I had on hand didn't work, so I had to get another tool that should be arriving today. Hopefully will be all up and running sometime tonight or tomorrow.


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

I like the upgrades, the rise on the handlebars looks good. I also upgraded pedals to the bear trap style, I was able to find them in the blue, but your feet cover them anyways. Very nice job. I don't care what anyone says, it was built as a cheap bike, it is what you make of it, mine is nothing more than fun casual rides in the sand and snow.


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Ok it's all put together. The freewheel removal tool took an extra day to get here, thus the delay . Some final pics are below. First one is just a shot of the bike, you can see the salvaged saddle I added.









Next is a picture of the drivetrain. You can see how I ended up routing the front derailleur cable... kinda shoddy but it works. There is the Sunrace freewheel... I had to add a small additional spacer... ~1-2mm on the axle between the bearing cup and the locknut on the drive side, in order for the chain to be able to access the smallest cog. Got it shifting relatively smoothly.










Last another close-up of the bars, new headset, new stem, and the salvaged grips/shifters/levers:









On the test rides I really enjoyed the upright riding position. But this bike is definitely heavy. Feels sluggish for that reason. I only rode it up and down the street so far. Can't wait to take it to the beach!


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

BTW found this deal on 120 tpi tires, looks almost TGTBT but thought I'd give them a try:








Wolftrax 26 x 4in 120Tpi Fat Bike Tire


The Wolftrax 26 x 4in tire is nothing but grippy goodness. Made by Innova, this 120TPI bearclaw of a tire rolls confidently on the loose stuff like snow and gravel while still confident and efficient on pavement and hardpack. Updated model with thinner casing; improved traction at low pressures...




www.framedbikes.com


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

tastysurprise said:


> BTW found this deal on 120 tpi tires, looks almost TGTBT but thought I'd give them a try:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So my oem say 20psi...assume this is a heck of a tire upgrade for roughly $60? Might be worth snagging a set


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

I picked up a couple, will let you know. I also started a conversation with Jim from Fatty Strippers (ba da bing!) and might try to use his stuff to go tubeless. Took it for a longer test ride (at the beach this time) and generally it was great. Some adjustments are still needed... I need to fine tune the rear derailleur a bit, and apparently I didn't tighten the wheel hubs enough because after a longer ride than up-and-down the block, there was too much play in the wheels. I did notice that the brakes are barely acceptable... if I ever take this on a mountain bike ride and not just beach cruising, that will be an absolute necessity to upgrade (but I have my Salsa El Mariachi 29er!). Rode at 6-7 PSI on the stock wheels, this was great for the harder packed sand but probably would like to go lower on the softer sand... but I'll usually just plow through a short section of soft stuff to get to the harder-packed stuff anyway  Here is a pic of the bike at the beach:


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

My "beach" pic would be covered in 6" of snow🤣


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## mrand (Dec 28, 2020)

Hey guys
I've noticed the YST Sealed BSA cupset w/Bearings English threads is no longer available. I was looking for an inexpensive bottom bracket upgrade for beachriding for my mongoose dolomite (blue wheels). Hoping for a sealed option like the YST which everyone seems to love. thanks for the advce


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

mrand said:


> Hey guys
> I've noticed the YST Sealed BSA cupset w/Bearings English threads is no longer available. I was looking for an inexpensive bottom bracket upgrade for beachriding for my mongoose dolomite (blue wheels). Hoping for a sealed option like the YST which everyone seems to love. thanks for the advce


I noticed that too, I got the same bike, and ended up going with this, and it's working stupendously:
Amazon.com : VGEBY1 Bottom Bracket, BSA-Innenlager Bike Square Taper Bottom Bracket for Fat Snow Bike 80142 100155 100177mm : Sports & Outdoors

However you ought to know that the cartridge itself is too short. I put on a second bearing support in order to get a locknut on. But I also bought this, which is a bit shorter but seems like it ought to work great as well:
Bottom Bracket Cartridge 170mm FAT TIRE BIKE -83-110mm BB

For the full story, my diatribe is only a few posts prior.


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## mrand (Dec 28, 2020)

thanks so much for your post and for all these details. Im still a little confused and need a little clarity if you dont mind. 

which of these 2 BBs would you prefer? Did you have to steal parts from each to make it work since the cartridge is too short? Looking for the best sealed option on the cheap for heavy sand riding

many thanks!!


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## mrand (Dec 28, 2020)

can you please clarify this: "I put on a second bearing support in order to get a locknut on' Do possibly have a link for the "second bearing support"


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

mrand said:


> can you please clarify this: "I put on a second bearing support in order to get a locknut on' Do possibly have a link for the "second bearing support"


When you install either of these two choices, you take the threaded bearing support cup off from one side of the BB.
This will expose one of the sealed bearings. I've circled it in the below picture. Note that this picture is probably not of the 177-length version, it came from the Amazon link:










Removing that will allow you to then screw in the BB and tighten with the BBT-22 20-spline tool. Then on the other side of the bike, you screw in the bearing support cup until it stops, becoming flush with the bearing, using the same tool. Then ideally, you would use the lock ring that came with the bike to lock that side down, using a spanner.

What happened to me is that piece circled above continued to move deep within the frame as I turned it, before finally stopping once becoming flush with the bearing again. So there was no way to add a lock ring. So I screwed in a second one  Kinda shoddy but I was able to at least lock down that side, because adding the second one enabled exposure of a few threads outside of the frame.

Looking at the Sick Bike part, it probably would not have this problem. But, the axle is 7mm shorter. Nonetheless I think this would enable the required clearance for the cranks I bought (I put on a triple-front from Shimano). Did not check whether the stock cranks would work with either of these options but it seems like they would be fine. I may end up using the Sick Bike part if something goes wrong with what I did.

I didn't buy a second support cup, I simply borrowed from the Sick Bike part  You could try starting with the Sick Bike part since I think that would fit better, and if it doesn't work or breaks, then salvage that cup for the other option?


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

BTW there is another possible option that could work:








Origin8 100x164mm XLT Square Taper Bottom Bracket


<ul> <li> Designed for fat bikes </li> <li> Chromoly spindle </li> <li> Sealed bearings </li> <li> Steel cups </li> </ul> <p> UPC 888571013427 </p> <p> Manufacturer Number VP-BC63 </p>




www.modernbike.com





It's pretty cheap but 164mm could potentially be a tight fit not sure. Could be worth a try as well.


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## mrand (Dec 28, 2020)

I appreciate all your help. I'll respond back here with my results also. If anyone has any more info on alternate sealed bottom brackets that are definite turn key fitments it would be greatly appreciated


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Been riding this bike on the beach and I love it, except for a couple things. Brakes suck, and the Sunrace freewheel sucks too. Can't stop on any steep grades. The freewheel is wobbly and clunky. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this freewheel, twice as expensive and I'm not sure of the quality of components from this company:





freewheel sizes 8-9 | Dimension Bike Products


Dimension freewheel sizes 8 through 9




www.dimensionbikeproducts.com





If I can get the brakes to where they need to be, I'll be letting you all know how the DOLOMITE manages the single track in the Soquel Demo Forest. Hydraulic seems like overkill for a bike this cheap, I'm already $500 and don't want this to be a money pit. But the tinker bug keeps biting me


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Well this is either TGTBT or the gods are smiling upon me (or the odds are ever in my favor, or whatever). Free brakes? Wanted to go large on the front rotor and replace both brakes. Can't go wrong with free.


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

tastysurprise said:


> Can't go wrong with free.


Well they caught the error after all


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

For going tubeless, I went with the split tube method. Works just fine. Go with lightweight tubes, split down the middle and place on the stock rims. Also, recent pic from today...


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

Pack66 said:


> For going tubeless, I went with the split tube method. Works just fine. Go with lightweight tubes, split down the middle and place on the stock rims. Also, recent pic from today...
> 
> View attachment 1909673


Saguaro cactus is a nice touch. Love desert rides.


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

I put the $30-each Framed Wolftrax 120 TPI tires on, I think it's a definite improvement in traction on the sand, maybe a bit lighter too. No issues with fit at all.


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## 13MikeH (Dec 5, 2020)

looks really good...palm trees...sand...man that's my long term goal in retirement. I need a happy place to ride


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Posted in daily pics. New Wolftrax on back, full tubeless.


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## Mongoose To Motorized (Jan 14, 2021)

Canoe said:


> Measurements to the nearest 1/16".
> (indoors, on flat concrete floor, frame vertical, fork straight)
> (I'm describing where I measure to/from, in case I chose the wrong point; I'm sure someone will be kind enough to correct me)
> 
> ...


My spindle is not 189mm it's 177mm and my shell is 112mm, I bought it late 2020. Also, I am looking for a replacement spindle. Mongoose says they are on back order till late March.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Anybody ever use This crankset to replace the square taper bb? My bottom bracket is about 112mm long so this would actually fit.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

Mongoose To Motorized said:


> My spindle is not 189mm it's 177mm and my shell is 112mm, I bought it late 2020. Also, I am looking for a replacement spindle. Mongoose says they are on back order till late March.


Check the thread, probably within the last 10 pages, there was a bunch of discussion on spindles.

KillerAJD mentioned this BB: Bottom Bracket Cartridge 170mm FAT TIRE BIKE -83-110mm BB


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

snowymountains24 said:


> Anybody ever use This crankset to replace the square taper bb? My bottom bracket is about 112mm long so this would actually fit.


Snowy, I've looked at that one but haven't tried it. I've talked with OneTrustMan and he's used this one:









Kurbelgarnitur 22/32x170 BSA auf Lager 120mm Inkl online kaufen | eBay


Entdecken Sie Kurbelgarnitur 22/32x170 BSA auf Lager 120mm Inkl in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!



www.ebay.de





When I asked him about this one: 








44.63US $ 16% OFF|Prowheel Snow Bike Crank Sprocket 170mm Bb100/120mm Fat Bicycle Crankset 32t/34t/36t/38t/40t/42t 104bcd Narrow Wide Chainring - Bicycle Crank & Chainwheel - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com





He said it should work. You should measure your BB (as there is a 100mm and a 110mm BB depending on which year Dolomite you bought) and email the seller to see what the Q factor is...Q factor is the space between crank arms and should tell you if it will fit.


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Pack66 said:


> Snowy, I've looked at that one but haven't tried it. I've talked with OneTrustMan and he's used this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I measured my BB about 3 months ago. It's 110, which is why I'm going for that and not the prowheel raid as onetrustman did. It looks like the bottom bracket adjusts in length, since it comes in two pieces and has the measurements 83/100/120 on the pictures of it. My best bet would probably be going with the 120mm version.


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)

New Dolo found in the wild...



https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mongoose-Dolomite-ALX-fat-tire-mountain-bike-16-speeds-26-inch-wheels-large-frame-grey/842674902



Maybe worthy of its own thread?


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## Pack66 (Jul 7, 2015)




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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Pack66 said:


> New Dolo found in the wild...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's like almost an entirely different bike! Aluminum frame, front derailleur, trigger shifters, rim cutouts... I wonder what the crucial updates would be for that one. Costs a bit more...


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

tastysurprise said:


> That's like almost an entirely different bike! Aluminum frame, front derailleur, trigger shifters, rim cutouts... I wonder what the crucial updates would be for that one. Costs a bit more...


It's nice looking for sure.. but definitely same cheap brakes. Would be more worth it to upgrade I think. Too bad it doesn't come with a tapered headset.


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## Bullfrog123 (Mar 21, 2018)

Can anybody tell me the width of the rear hub on the new Dolomite ALX?

Is it 190mm like the old Dolomite and the Hitch or is it narrower?

I am tired of bending the 190mm 9mm axles...contemplating building a wheel with a 10mm threaded rod.

Thanks


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## Nappa3xl (May 1, 2021)

Hello all, 

New to the community, wanted to say love the forum!


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## tastysurprise (Dec 2, 2020)

Hey it's been a couple months but I have an update on my Dolo. I installed the BB7 brakes and the 203mm rotor in the front. After doing so, I think the BB7's are something of a luxury item for mechanical brakes. They are easy to adjust and higher quality than the existing brakes but might not be worth the cost to upgrade, on the Dolo. However, the 203mm rotors are a definite necessary upgrade IMHO. If you do this, you will need the Shimano SM-MA-F203 IS/Post Front adapter. Should be easy to find at a couple different online stores. Wanted to share because I noticed that a lot of folks ask about what adapter is needed for 203mm rotors for the Dolo and nobody ever gives out this info. BTW Avid doesn't make 203mm adapters anymore which is why you need the Shimano.


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## emedlin (Nov 26, 2018)

I put a pair of BUCKLOS 203mm adaptors on my Malus recently to go with some 203mm rotors. The problem is the stock brake calipers only seem to contact about half the rotor. Much like the picture in one of the amazon reviews for the adapters. Can anyone give me the exact measurements of their adaptors? I would like to compare it to mine. Also, why do some brake calipers like the stock ones and BB7's have washers on both sides of the brake caliper where it mounts to the adaptor vs only on one side like the Shimano M375. It seems if I removed the washers from one side of the stock brakes it would drop them in more and make more contact with the rotors. But, without the adjustment of the second set of washers I am not sure if it would line up.

Amazon links to the ones I purchased.
rotors
adapters


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## maho248 (May 30, 2021)

This forum is awesome! I have a brake rotor noise question I'm hoping you all can help with.

I bought an old Dolo (blue with red wheels) for $50 that still had all the original parts, mostly because I want to learn more about bike mechanics but also figured it could be fun to ride when done. I stripped it down to the frame and replaced everything but the wheels. All Shimano brakes and drivetrain, and most of the other upgrades mentioned here. I can post a list later, but I have a question maybe some more experienced wrenches can answer.

I took my freshly-upgraded Dolo out for a test ride yesterday and I noticed that when I lean to turn the bike, the brake rotors rub. Actually, they do more than rub. It sounds like I put cards in my spokes like I did when I was a kid to make a motor sound. Clearly, something isn't right. On the stand, everything rolls smooth and no rubbing.

I'm thinking maybe I left too much play in the wheel when I reassembled the axles after replacing the bearings and grease. I tightened enough to remove any play in the axle but with more focus on keeping the wheel spinning smooth as possible. Maybe with my weight (250) I need to pack them tighter?

I appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.


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## jpitcher332 (Jun 7, 2021)

I'm digging this thread. Hard to find many people out there on Dolo's that actually praise them for what they are. I bought one a few months ago and I love it so far, for the most part. No major upgrades yet... replaced the seatpost and seat... swapped out that god-awful grip-shifter for a Shimano Rapidfire shifter... new grips and new pedals to replace those janky stock ones. 

I do want to update the rear cassette and (naturally) the derailleur to go with the new cassette. Just not sure what will fit the Dolo's rear-end. I'm keeping the crankset as a single sprocket but would (ideally) like to go to 10 or so in the back to get a better low-end for climbing this behemoth of a bike (and my big a$$) up hills. Want to swap out the brakes as well -- the stock ones don't seem to have much stopping power and they are noisy as hell (not sure yet if that's the rotors causing the noise or the pads.. maybe both?)

Any recommendations on a 10+ cog rear cassette, derailleur for 10+ cassettes, and/or brake caliper/rotor upgrades? Don't really want to dump tons of $$ into this but looking in the neighborhood of $300 or so if possible. 

TIA!


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## maho248 (May 30, 2021)

jpitcher332 said:


> Any recommendations on a 10+ cog rear cassette, derailleur for 10+ cassettes, and/or brake caliper/rotor upgrades? Don't really want to dump tons of $$ into this but looking in the neighborhood of $300 or so if possible.
> TIA!


Sounds like you may have a much newer Dolo than I have, but I tried to go up from the stock 7-speed freewheel to an 8 speed and I couldn't index the gears because of too much freewheel wobble. So good luck with 10. I ended up replacing it with a Shimano 7-speed and it works great. Freewheel wobble is often caused by flaws in the manufacturing of the hub, so unless I replace the wheel ($$$$), that's as many gears as I'll get in the back. I put a triple on the front but with no derailleur -- I'll move the chain manually if I really need to based on terrain.

Don't forget to replace your chain if you go with more gears in back.

For brakes, I upgraded to hydro and bigger rotors with this kit: Amazon.com : JGbike Shimano MT200 MTB Hydraulic Disc Brake Set for Mountain Bike Bicycle MTB XC Trail, e-Bike, Fat Bike, The Best Upgrade kit for Mechanical Disc Brake : Sports & Outdoors

The brake lines had to be bled after install (even though they say pre-bled), but otherwise was a pretty straightforward upgrade.


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## TwistedJake (Jun 16, 2021)

This thread is great!!! I picked up a used Dolomite a couple months ago as my first bike since I was a kid some 20+ years ago. Needed something to be active on that wasn't an expensive gym membership.

I'm mechanically inclined but so much as changed in the bike world since I was a kid I honestly feel like I'm starting over.

For right now my current want is to simply get lower gearing. I don't think I need more gears for what I'm doing but an overall lower gear would be great. 1st gear isn't low enough for me to go up some hills. The whole cassette vs freewheel thing confuses me as I'm not entirely sure what I have or need. I've read through this thread but a lot of the info and links are dead.

Can anyone help me out with suggestions on what to do? Links to purchase would be greatly helpful. (Amazon delivers to my house daily already.)

I'm also reading that a worthwhile upgrade is the shifter from grip to something like the Shimano Rapidfire but there are so many options I'm not sure which to get. I'm all about staying budget on this bike. I just want to enjoy it and learn. When I know more about things and what I want I'll invest in a nicer bike but for now trying to not dump a ton of money into it.


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## bobk77 (May 14, 2012)

Here is mine Dolomite with the "few" mods


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## snowymountains24 (Feb 5, 2019)

Still have my (rebranded) dolo after 2 years. It's still serving me well as a daily driver but thinking of picking up a new one eventually. I've put just about 800+ dollars worth of upgrades into mine. For a first time build it was fun to do. It's definitely served its purpose for me.


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## jpitcher332 (Jun 7, 2021)

maho248 said:


> Sounds like you may have a much newer Dolo than I have, but I tried to go up from the stock 7-speed freewheel to an 8 speed and I couldn't index the gears because of too much freewheel wobble. So good luck with 10. I ended up replacing it with a Shimano 7-speed and it works great. Freewheel wobble is often caused by flaws in the manufacturing of the hub, so unless I replace the wheel ($$$$), that's as many gears as I'll get in the back. I put a triple on the front but with no derailleur -- I'll move the chain manually if I really need to based on terrain.
> 
> Don't forget to replace your chain if you go with more gears in back.
> 
> ...



As an update: I rebuilt the rear wheel with a freehub so that I could get away from the freewheel. Dropped a MicroShift Advent X groupset onto the bike and it's been a dream.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

theWrathofKhan said:


> I guess I really should by a caliper, but I don't have one handy, which is why I asked.


To determine diameter without a caliper: 

Tightly wrap a piece of string once around the bar with some overlap
With the string held tight, draw a line across the two wraps of string at the overlap
Remove the string
Measure the distance between the marks
The measured distance divided by 3.14 = diameter of the bar


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

jpitcher332 said:


> As an update: I rebuilt the rear wheel with a freehub so that I could get away from the freewheel. Dropped a MicroShift Advent X groupset onto the bike and it's been a dream.


jpitcher332,

I have some questions about your freewheel to freehub swap:
1. Which hub
2. Which spokes and nipples did you use?
3. What spoke tension did you use?

Thanks


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Canoe said:


> Before you ride it ever, you want to clear out and repack the bearings. You be filling their entire space so there's no room for water with salt to get in.


Canoe,

Thank you for starting this thread. I’m waiting on delivery of a Malus from Amazon. I know that I have to clean and re-grease all the bearings.

QUESTION: When you say “filling their entire space”, do you mean the filling the entire bearing cup or the entire hub? Just want to be sure I understand your recommendation.

Thanks


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

bobk77 said:


> Here is mine Dolomite with the "few" mods


bobk77,

Your bike looks great.

Question: Freehub rear wheel?


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Last week I ordered this ”used - damaged packaging” Malus from amazon.com/warehouse. Hopefully, I didn’t outsmart myself. We’ll see!


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

jpz0883 said:


> Last week I ordered this ”used - damaged packaging” Malus from amazon.com/warehouse. Hopefully, I didn’t outsmart myself. We’ll see!


You might want to get one of these https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Acer...eywords=shimano+sl+m310&qid=1637357537&sr=8-3


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

jpz0883 said:


> Last week I ordered this ”used - damaged packaging” Malus from amazon.com/warehouse. Hopefully, I didn’t outsmart myself. We’ll see!


UPDATE #1, 11/19/2021 : The fork on the “used-damaged packaging” Malus is severely bent. When the front wheel is installed, the tire is being pushed into the right fork leg hard enough to prevent the wheel from turning at all.

It’s too bad. Everything else seems to be okay. Paint is good. Rear rim is true. No wobble in the freewheel. Shifts into all seven gears.

I’ll call Pacific Cycle Support tomorrow. If I end up having to send the bike back to Amazon, I’m going to put big notes on it indicating that it has a bent fork so that it isn’t sold again with the bent fork.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

striker64 said:


> You might want to get one of these https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Acer...eywords=shimano+sl+m310&qid=1637357537&sr=8-3


striker64,

Thanks. The Malus arrived with a fork that was bent enough to make the bike unrideable. l’ve got to get that resolved first.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

jpz0883 said:


> UPDATE #1, 11/19/2021 : The fork on the “used-damaged packaging” Malus is severely bent. When the front wheel is installed, the tire is being pushed into the right fork leg hard enough to prevent the wheel from turning at all.
> 
> It’s too bad. Everything else seems to be okay. Paint is good. Rear rim is true. No wobble in the freewheel. Shifts into all seven gears.
> 
> I’ll call Pacific Cycle Support tomorrow. If I end up having to send the bike back to Amazon, I’m going to put big notes on it indicating that it has a bent fork so that it isn’t sold again with the bent fork.


Update #2, 11/20/2021: Amazon offered me a 50% refund. I figure the tires, tubes, and wheels are worth that.

Been looking online for replacement forks. Carbon forks are easier to find than steel, but I have no desire to go carbon. I’m going to check out suspension forks, too.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

jpz0883 said:


> Update #2, 11/20/2021: Amazon offered me a 50% refund. I figure the tires, tubes, and wheels are worth that.
> 
> Been looking online for replacement forks. Carbon forks are easier to find than steel, but I have no desire to go carbon. I’m going to check out suspension forks, too.


Update #3, 11/22/2021
Update #3:
Good News: Pacific Cycle is going to send me a new fork under warranty.
Bad News: The part is on back order until February.

QUESTION: Anybody have a steel fork off of a Mongoose steel-frame fat bike (e.g., Dolomite, Malus, Hitch, Aztec, Argus ST 26) for sale?


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## <JoeBike> (Dec 29, 2021)

bobk77 said:


> Here is mine Dolomite with the "few" mods
> View attachment 1936920


Hi Bob! Are you able to tell me what upgrades you did? Your bike looks awesome and I have one coming next week after being on a steely Dolo for the past year. Most specifically the cassette and crank?! If anyone else on here knows what it is too that would be great. I’ve also been looking at an SRAM sx 1x12 on Alibaba but there’s all these options I don’t quite understand…thank you.


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## <JoeBike> (Dec 29, 2021)

jpz0883 said:


> Update #3, 11/22/2021
> Update #3:
> Good News: Pacific Cycle is going to send me a new fork under warranty.
> Bad News: The part is on back order until February.
> ...


Sorry double posting the quote button just showed up. I do have Dolomite I’m looking to sell but would it be worth to part it out? I’ve also been looking for a suspension fork everyone rips on the Amazon cheapos.

Any thoughts on these forks? Seem to be selling daily when I see the stock numbers. 

GXFWJD 26 Inch Bike Suspension Forks 4.0 Fat Bike Straight Front Fork Downhill Mountain Bike MTB Fork 1-1/8 Disc Brake Air Fork 170mm Travel E-Bike Front Fork BMX 2850g (Delivery from USA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HC1Y7Q...abc_RJ5J7QTNJP1B0JZ2QCK9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just don’t want to spend over $200 because what I would want to spend on the ALX I could get on bikes direct for 2k a souped up bike. Thanks.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

01/17/2022 Dolomite $280 at target.com
30% off, regular price $400
blue frame, red rims


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

01/20/2022 Dolomite $280 at amazon

blue frame, red rims


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

This 9-minute video has interesting information for those of us who choose to ride heavy(😱) bikes.

Per testing by the maker of the video:

Each kg (2.2#) adds 1-2 minutes to a 100 km (61 mile) ride with 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) of elevation gain
Each kg (2.2#) adds 10-20 seconds to a 100 km (61 mile) ride on flat terrain

Unless you’re racing or having to carry your bike up to your 4th-floor walk up, bike weight doesn’t make as much difference manufacturers and bike shops would have us believe.

[YT=do not obsess over weight]


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## whipnet (Dec 30, 2021)

Love my fat bikes. Rode my Malus 2200 miles last year.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

My Dolomite has 9,650 miles purchased in April 2016.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

DIY fork-straightening on my BSO

I bought a Mongoose Malus. It had a bent fork. When I installed the front wheel, the right-side sidewall was pressed hard against the fork leg. Both fork legs were bent.

I used a come-a-long to straighten the fork legs. I hooked one end to the kickstand and looped the cable near the fork-leg dropout. On my first try, I pulled both legs a little too far. I used the come-a-long to pull each leg back a little bit. Close enough for government work!

(Harbor Freight sells a come-a-long for about $20. No affiliation.)


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

To be clear, the post above was about my repair hack. The post was not intended to be critical of Mongoose, Pacific Cycle, or Amazon. 

I am a fan of Mongoose, Pacific Cycle, and Amazon. As far as I am concerned, they’ve all been fair with me.

The bent fork wasn’t Pacific Cycle or Mongoose’s fault. It was shipping damage.

I bought the bike “used” from the Amazon Warehouse at a discounted price. Because of the bent fork, Amazon offered me a choice of returning the bike for a full refund or an additional discount if I kept it. I chose to keep the bike.

Mongoose has offered to replace the fork under warranty when that fork is back in stock or to partially reimburse me if I find a suitable new replacement fork at a bike dealer. Given current market conditions, I can understand why there are extended delays for replacement parts.


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## Mrdjpk (10 mo ago)

Here’s a few pictures of My EBike Malus. Upgrading to Shimano Ice rotors 203/160 and brakes to TEKTRO DORADO HD-E725 Front And Rear with power cutoff


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Mrdjpk,
Nice job! 
Were you able to buy the rear wheel as assembly or did you have to lace the motor to the Mongoose wheel?


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## Mrdjpk (10 mo ago)

jpz0883 said:


> Mrdjpk,
> Nice job!
> Were you able to buy the rear wheel as assembly or did you have to lace the motor to the Mongoose wheel?


Pre laced and the new 4piston brakes are sick stop on a dime even down hill


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## fireproof69 (9 mo ago)

striker64 said:


> My Dolomite has 9,650 miles purchased in April 2016.


That looks pretty sweet. I'd love to see some riding video from the side profile of these with the high bars.

I have the same bike, and been getting a few upgrades for it. Trying to get active riding, but not looking for aggressive trail riding. Just around the neighborhood, and eventually some flat gravel trails.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

striker64 said:


> My Dolomite has 9,650 miles purchased in April 2016.


Okay 10,000 miles on Wednesday!


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

fireproof69 said:


> That looks pretty sweet. I'd love to see some riding video from the side profile of these with the high bars.


YouTube video of me (72, 5’9”, 30” inseam, 215#) on my Mongoose Malus with SUNLITE D-Cruiser Handlebar, 32" W x 13.5" H x 7/8", Black:


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Because of the information in this thread, I was able to modify my Malus to make it a very enjoyable for me (72, 5’9”, 215#, 30” inseam) to ride where I ride (suburban Chicago streets and bike paths):

DNP 7-speed, 11-34 freewheel
Shimano FC-M311 22/32/42 chainwheel (manual shift)
SUNLITE D-Cruiser Handlebar, 32" W x 13.5" H x 7/8", Black
ISM Touring Saddle - Black
Metal pedals
Click shifter
With the mods, weight is still under 50#

Thank you everyone, especially @Canoe and @striker64.


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## striker64 (Aug 16, 2016)

Going to need tires soon, can't believe the price of tires these days. Even from China they want a lot.


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## ebolamonkey (Nov 18, 2020)

Bullfrog123 said:


> Can anybody tell me the width of the rear hub on the new Dolomite ALX?
> 
> Is it 190mm like the old Dolomite and the Hitch or is it narrower?
> 
> ...


190mm in the rear.


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Mongoose Malus Tire & Tube Weights

I used a digital scale to weigh the front tire and tube that came with my Mongoose Malus.

Chao Yang tire, 26x4.0: 1554g
tube: 524g
F wheel assembly without tire & tube: 2082g
The weights listed above were within +/- 0.1# of the weights I got using a digital bathroom scale.

Per Schwalbe, their 26x4.0 butyl tube weighs 390g.

Weights for other fat tires listed below.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

I just clicked by to see if this thread was really 156 pages long.

It is.

Whoa. Amazing.

Ta ta!
=sParty


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

jpitcher332 said:


> As an update: I rebuilt the rear wheel with a freehub so that I could get away from the freewheel. Dropped a MicroShift Advent X groupset onto the bike and it's been a dream.


jpitcher332,

Found out that Mongoose sells a complete freehub rear wheel for $54. Thinking about upgrading my Malus to a cassette.

Questions:
1.) No problems using the Advent X derailleur on a Mongoose steel frame with an integral hanger?
2.) Which cassette are you using?

Thanks


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## Slloyd70 (6 mo ago)

jpz0883 said:


> jpitcher332,
> 
> Found out that Mongoose sells a complete freehub rear wheel for $54. Thinking about upgrading my Malus to a cassette.
> 
> ...


Link or infor on that wheel?? Been looking for something like this for a while


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

@Slloyd70,

Per Mark Ketcham in the Mongoose Fat-Bike group on Facebook, these are the part numbers for replacement wheels for a Mongoose Juneau that fit Mongoose steel-frame fat bikes.

Rear wheel assembly with cassette-type hub: RW260779
Rear wheel Skewer: RQRAB1
Front wheel assembly: FW260779


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## Slloyd70 (6 mo ago)

Thank you very much....not on Facebook so I never would have found this


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Slloyd70 said:


> Thank you very much....not on Facebook so I never would have found this


I haven’t pulled the trigger on a new rear wheel yet. If you do, let us know how it works out.


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## MTB_Underdog (Jul 8, 2020)

jpz0883 said:


> Mongoose Malus Tire & Tube Weights
> 
> I used a digital scale to weigh the front tire and tube that came with my Mongoose Malus.
> 
> ...


So I just picked up a Dolo for my son's Christmas, he's been wanting one for a while now to goof around on. Haven't put it together yet, am I reading correctly that I can drop 1400g (3#) of rotating weight by swapping tires? Wow!

Of course, that would mean buying $180 worth of tires for a $228 bike... Guess I'll resist going down the rabbit hole for now, he's got other stuff to ride if he wants light!


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

MTB_Underdog said:


> So I just picked up a Dolo for my son's Christmas, he's been wanting one for a while now to goof around on. Haven't put it together yet, am I reading correctly that I can drop 1400g (3#) of rotating weight by swapping tires? Wow!
> 
> Of course, that would mean buying $180 worth of tires for a $228 bike... Guess I'll resist going down the rabbit hole for now, he's got other stuff to ride if he wants light!


What's more important weight or rolling resistance?

Per the CyclingAbout youtube channel, bicycle weight “penalty” for a 200-watt rider is less than manufacturers and dealers trying to sell lighter stuff would have us believe.

Flat ride: Each kg (2.2#) adds 10-20 seconds to a 100 km (61 mile)
On a 1.8% grade: Each kg (2.2#) adds 1-2 minutes to a 100 km (61 mile) ride with 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) of elevation gain


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

MTB_Underdog said:


> So I just picked up a Dolo for my son's Christmas, he's been wanting one for a while now to goof around on. Haven't put it together yet, am I reading correctly that I can drop 1400g (3#) of rotating weight by swapping tires? Wow!
> 
> Of course, that would mean buying $180 worth of tires for a $228 bike... Guess I'll resist going down the rabbit hole for now, he's got other stuff to ride if he wants light!


Is rotating weight really that much more important than static weight?
bicycles: rotating weight vs. static weight?

bike radar: 



gcn tech: 



cyclist: Do light wheels beat a light frame?


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## jpz0883 (Oct 23, 2021)

Best Replacement Axle for a Malus?

The rear axle on my Malus has a slight bend on the cog side.
QUESTION: Is there a better, stronger than a replacement rear axle from Mongoose?

Context: Dressed to ride, I weigh 215#. I ride pavement and bike trails. No single track. No jumps. My Malus has a 19.5 gear low gear (22t chainwheel, 34t cog). Stock low gear was 38.7 gear inches (36t chainwheel, 28t cog).


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## rete (Sep 23, 2019)

jpz0883 said:


> Best Replacement Axle for a Malus?
> 
> The rear axle on my Malus has a slight bend on the cog side.
> QUESTION: Is there a better, stronger than a replacement rear axle from Mongoose?
> ...


Unless you're 120lb or less, every freewheel axle eventually bends.

See post 3109 above


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