# Dirtbike handlebars on a DH rig ? need help



## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

Is it possible to get a dirtbike handlebar setup which is 1-1/8 1.125inchs which is like 28.5mm to a 31.8mm stem clamp ? are there spacers like I always see on the 888 setup they have some kind of red spacer in there.

any help as they are about same length etc around 31inches wide. plus if you wanted you could through the pad on there.


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

Why?


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

It would make front flips easier since they weigh more than 10 times as much as a 31" wide DH bar...

There is not really any reason to go through the trouble to mount those bars on a DH bike.


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

i dont know many people worried about weight that are bombing down a mountain on a 40 + pound bike. My question is , is it possible im not a conformist and try new things. I want some mean pro tapers. anyone know of any clamps?


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## justcheckin (Feb 19, 2009)

whats the clamp size?


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## csermonet (Feb 2, 2009)

get some answer mountain bike bars, save yourself the headache and the money. you can get a relatively cheap answer pro taper.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21380


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

csermonet said:


> get some answer mountain bike bars, save yourself the headache and the money. you can get a relatively cheap answer pro taper.
> 
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21380


I want a High rise bar and they are much stronger than a MTB bar.

also they are all 31 inches wide and have 3" rise bars.

having hard time finding 3 inch rise that looks halfway decent and that is 800mm wide

sidewall of the dirtbike bars are 5mm walls


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## brillantesdv (Oct 24, 2007)

if your doing anything where you need the strength of a moto bar...im sure youll need to worry about other stuff breaking besides your handlebars...

davidcopperfield??


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

brillantesdv said:


> if your doing anything where you need the strength of a moto bar...im sure youll need to worry about other stuff breaking besides your handlebars...


For the rest of you who would like to post please post about what im talking about i dont need to look at comments that have nothing to do with what im asking. I was pointing out a benefit i stated what i needed not needing opinions on why i dont need it.

please post helpfull information for what im asking

and helpfull information is not me going another route because i already know i can do that.


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## dwnhlldav (Feb 2, 2006)

airmiller44 said:


> is it possible im not a conformist


I'd say it is entirely possible that you are not a conformist.

Go drink 5 beers (save the sixth) slice up the cans to make shims to clamp your odd sized bars into a 31.8mm diameter stem. Now here is the important part, make sure someone has a camera, gather up the 6th beer and tell the camera person "Hold my beer and watch this" while you go and huck your ghetto shimmed moto handlebars.

One more thing to add.

A stupid idea in the name of not conforming is still a stupid idea.


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## b4 stealth (Sep 9, 2007)

I have never seen the product you are looking for, but I can gaurantee you its a bad idea.


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

the difference in weight seems to be about 4.5 ounces im not worried about that.


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

...


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

actually, i've seen it done on a set of fox 40s using protaper CR High rise bars, custom machined clamp though. and moto bars they arent that heavy... the forces of motocross on the bars often isn't that huge compared to freeride and dh so they don't need to be built much stronger, motocrossers like lightweight too.


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

AlexJK said:


> actually, i've seen it done on a set of fox 40s using protaper CR High rise bars, custom machined clamp though. and moto bars they arent that heavy... the forces of motocross on the bars often isn't that huge compared to freeride and dh so they don't need to be built much stronger, motocrossers like lightweight too.


Thank you it seems there is some constructive feedback here.

i mean its not like its going to look that different and the weight is nothing i dont know how u can be a weight weenie downhiller.

custom clamps shouldnt be hard at all.

I love the feel of my dirtbike bars and dont want to waste money on a set of bars I may not like.


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## 181picklz (Aug 5, 2009)

AlexJK said:


> actually, i've seen it done on a set of fox 40s using protaper CR High rise bars, custom machined clamp though. and moto bars they arent that heavy... the *forces of motocross on the bars often isn't that huge compared to freeride and dh* so they don't need to be built much stronger, motocrossers like lightweight too.


You do realize a light mx bike weights around 230lbs? Kart wheel a 40lb DH bike down the hill is a lot less stress on the bars then a 230lb dirtbike or a 400lb quad. MXers may like lightweight but I have never seen one set down a set of bars because they are too heavy.


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

181picklz said:


> You do realize a light mx bike weights around 230lbs? Kart wheel a 40lb DH bike down the hill is a lot less stress on the bars then a 230lb dirtbike or a 400lb quad. MXers may like lightweight but I have never seen one set down a set of bars because they are too heavy.


good thing they normally dont cartwheel and just fall over on the bars. quads your right they cartwheel everywhere and break you in the process thats why 2 wheels rock

also on a quad at least you would rather have some bars that will bend vs the bars being too strong and bending your steer tube etc. ive done that its no fun.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

I wasn't aware that MX bars were that light, ya learn something new everyday. Most people these days are trying to keep their front end reasonable low as well as having a sub 40# build.

The BB on your bike is super high so having higher rise bars may be more comfortable for you. I still think you should spend the money on a proper set of MTB bars though.


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## 181picklz (Aug 5, 2009)

If you have never kartwheeled a bike you have never raced mx.............

As for the bars:

+ Strong, Cheap
-Unnecessary

Try it if you have the chance? F-it why not?


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

GearTech said:


> I wasn't aware that MX bars were that light, ya learn something new everyday. Most people these days are trying to keep their front end reasonable low as well as having a sub 40# build.
> 
> The BB on your bike is super high so having higher rise bars may be more comfortable for you. I still think you should spend the money on a proper set of MTB bars though.


If I can find a bar thats over 30 inches wide with 3 inch rise and 31.8 clamp and reasonable price ill go for it. but im not seeing anything i Like. I need a rise im 6'4 and always feel i need them higher. for my dirtbike i got 3 inch rise and the clamps have risers its still a little low for me.

I will keep hunting and at least i have this in the back of my mind.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

hey it's all about money

if you want a beer cooler on your bike most people would say no....but if you pay someone enough dough then you can get whatever you want


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

i've cartwheeled an MX bike before, damn 4-pokes and the compression braking...

they snapped and got buried in the clay track... which tore the hose off of my awesome magura hydraulic clutch :madmax: 

i'd call it an advantage, they are heaver but you also get a stronger bar (i know i said they weren't built that much tougher, "that much" being the key phrase)

cheaper, they come in more choices (i've been doing MX for a long time, there are literally a few thousand different bars, and that's just the solid ones. the anti vibe bars are amazing too)


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## justcheckin (Feb 19, 2009)

look at a set of nukeproof bars, they come in 680mm and 720mm


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

justcheckin said:


> look at a set of nukeproof bars, they come in 680mm and 720mm


yeah but once again they are not 30 inches wide and they only come in less than a 2 inch rise ...


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

airmiller44 said:


> i dont know many people worried about weight that are bombing down a mountain on a 40 + pound bike. My question is , is it possible im not a conformist and try new things.


First of all: If you're "bombing" down a hill and can't grasp why weight is important (to a point) then you're probably a hack. It's a hell of a lot more fun to get playful and throw the bike around. You also might have to change directions every once in a while. In that case a quicker bike that accelerates faster is going to be faster and more fun. To answer your "conformist"/"try new things" comment: Many of Azonic's bars are basically lightened Moto bars. I'd call that an appropriate adaptation. To top it off Renthal used to market MTB bars. They still make em but you have to ask nicely. There are many other examples. The point is this is completely unoriginal (if that's your goal) and adds no functionality over mtb bars that are often basically lightened moto bars. I'd be willing to bet they are often manufactured on the same lines. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a pair of KORE Torsions in 800mm zero rise. They will be a revelation to you. Generally the mtb community has the basics figured out. Don't try to bring back ridiculous 90's trends that have already been proven to be egregiously wrong.


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

airmiller44 said:


> I want a High rise bar and they are much stronger than a MTB bar.
> 
> also they are all 31 inches wide and have 3" rise bars.
> 
> ...


They are stronger because they are designed to hit things going 80+. MTB bars are designed to hit things at 40-50 mph. There are very few examples of broken bars where the bar was appropriate for the application.

Three inch rise bars are stupid. Lower bars lower your center of gravity, increase traction, increase pumping power, and are a better design. It's MUCH easier to engineer a strong flat bar than one with 4 bends.

If you like overkill that is massively over the top and totally unnecessary at the expense of performance then you sir are a tool.


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

dwnhlldav said:


> Why?


well i'm sure the mother of the person that decided that they would squeeze a cow's teat and drink whatever came out said the same thing 

in short: because we can


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

Mr. Blonde said:


> They are stronger because they are designed to hit things going 80+. MTB bars are designed to hit things at 40-50 mph. There are very few examples of broken bars where the bar was appropriate for the application.
> 
> Three inch rise bars are stupid. Lower bars lower your center of gravity, increase traction, increase pumping power, and are a better design. It's MUCH easier to engineer a strong flat bar than one with 4 bends.
> 
> If you like overkill that is massively over the top and totally unnecessary at the expense of performance then you sir are a tool.


if you think im a tool over 4 ounces i find that quite funny. more weight equals more momentum down a hill so it doesnt bother me as my riding style is not full blown racing. So before you run your mouth you can ask questions. Once again if you cant read i need a rise as im lanky as **** and ergonimcs change with that my center of gravity is already high because my height.

im sure full blown racers would really care but these bars are for me and what I would like and ive already put it out there im not sure and im still looking for mtb bars but you pointed it out there really isnt much of a difference and they are pretty much the same, i jsut cant find the same measurements etc.

id love to see someone crash at 80mph on a dirtbike and give a **** about their handlbars as they would be in the ER instantly or in the freezer.


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

Mr. Blonde said:


> They are stronger because they are designed to hit things going 80+. MTB bars are designed to hit things at 40-50 mph. There are very few examples of broken bars where the bar was appropriate for the application.
> 
> Three inch rise bars are stupid. Lower bars lower your center of gravity, increase traction, increase pumping power, and are a better design. It's MUCH easier to engineer a strong flat bar than one with 4 bends.
> 
> If you like overkill that is massively over the top and totally unnecessary at the expense of performance then you sir are a tool.


your username is fitting


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## justcheckin (Feb 19, 2009)

i thought they made them in a 3" rise, my bad


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

airmiller44 said:


> yeah but once again they are not 30 inches wide and they only come in less than a 2 inch rise ...


Just get some MOTO bars and some shims machined? Go to a machine shop I'm sure it'll cost 20 bucks tops. It's not that hard. If you're unsure of widths and such.....get a micrometer. Can't see why anyone would need "help" or "tips" on how to do this?


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## brillantesdv (Oct 24, 2007)

Gemini2k05 said:


> Can't see why anyone would need "help" or "tips" on how to do this?


because its an internet MTB forum. everyone needs their hand held when making a decision.


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## AlexJK (May 2, 2009)

181picklz said:


> You do realize a light mx bike weights around 230lbs? Kart wheel a 40lb DH bike down the hill is a lot less stress on the bars then a 230lb dirtbike or a 400lb quad. MXers may like lightweight but I have never seen one set down a set of bars because they are too heavy.


 but are you really worried about your bars whilst your head is hurtling towards an awfully big tree?

i care more about the strength of the bar while i'm still on the bike


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

The logo at the top says MTBR but I know this has to be Pinkbike...

2001 was gnarcore! Bring it back!


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## hankthespacecowboy (Jun 10, 2004)

I've actually done it. Regular mountain bike handlebars made me feel like I was riding a tricycle or something. I pulled the Pro Tapers off my ATK and ran them on my Uzzi for quite awhile. Still my favorite handlebars, just a bit too much rise. For a shim, I just used a piece of 1" copper tubing from the hardware store. Cut it in half and "viola!" perfect cheap handlebar spacer. Just pick up one of the short pieces used for butt joints. I'm pretty sure it cost me less than a dollar.


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## eabos (Jun 11, 2005)

Hank seems to have the answer your looking for. One thought though, if you're trying to get more height using the 3" rise could you go the other route and find the highest rise 30" mtb bar out there and make up the rest of the difference using more headset spacers and a higher degree stem?


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## MTB-AHOLIC (Oct 8, 2005)

Mr. Blonde said:


> First of all: If you're "bombing" down a hill and can't grasp why weight is important (to a point) then you're probably a hack. It's a hell of a lot more fun to get playful and throw the bike around. You also might have to change directions every once in a while. In that case a quicker bike that accelerates faster is going to be faster and more fun. To answer your "conformist"/"try new things" comment: Many of Azonic's bars are basically lightened Moto bars. I'd call that an appropriate adaptation. To top it off Renthal used to market MTB bars. They still make em but you have to ask nicely. There are many other examples. The point is this is completely unoriginal (if that's your goal) and adds no functionality over mtb bars that are often basically lightened moto bars. I'd be willing to bet they are often manufactured on the same lines. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a pair of KORE Torsions in 800mm zero rise. They will be a revelation to you. Generally the mtb community has the basics figured out. Don't try to bring back ridiculous 90's trends that have already been proven to be egregiously wrong.


Very True. Ive used several different kinds of bars and could tell no life changing difference. Its just a minor improvement I suppose. Don't get mad when you ask a question and people give you different comments and suggestions. If a bunch of people say its not a good Idea than your not going to prove them wrong cause you asked the question. Also, not many people put moto bars on their downhill bikes so there will not be a quick easy solution. If you want to go be mr. american chopper and fabricate a new handlebar system do it...don't argue online about it. I don't even use handlebars anymore...


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## jasonvelocity (Jul 21, 2006)

I have aBontrager Crowbar on my DJ, and I would recommend them.


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## crazy Jim (Mar 31, 2005)

I mounted Honda motorcycle bars to my BMX back in '71, back then there were not a whole lot of options for parts


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

I've heard of people doing this. Usually super tall guys. The biggest issue is finding a bar with a competent backsweep and upsweep since they are way different for MX bars. These days the widths are basically the same. You still see some WC guys running 2" rise bars, or some higher. Not many, but you'll see it here and there.

The weight is not really all that much more than a decent DH bar. If you're doing anything besides an anorexic racer-weenie build, it's completely negligible.

If you need to shim it down, you can buy bend-able shimstock and form it around the bars. I personally wouldn't do this, but I've seen it done, both with bars, and with people adapting smaller clamp diameter moto forks into triple clamps that are a mm or two larger diameter. Again, sketchy spot to be shimming down a clamping diameter if you ask me, but I've seen it done successfully.

Don't get a crossbar style bar. They are more prone to snapping at the crossbar mounts where a normal bar might bend instead. They're really made to be a short-lived handlebar because of that, and if you honestly think you need a pad to keep your face from smashing into the stem and steerer tube....well, figure something else out, like keeping your head up.


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

AlexJK said:


> your username is fitting


You like Quentin Tarentino movies?


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## chris_d (Apr 5, 2008)

lame


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

DHidiot said:


> I've heard of people doing this. Usually super tall guys. The biggest issue is finding a bar with a competent backsweep and upsweep since they are way different for MX bars. These days the widths are basically the same. You still see some WC guys running 2" rise bars, or some higher. Not many, but you'll see it here and there.
> 
> The weight is not really all that much more than a decent DH bar. If you're doing anything besides an anorexic racer-weenie build, it's completely negligible.
> 
> ...


yeah thats the issue im pretty tall for almost any bike and have really long arms. for now I have bought a pair of 28" bars to see how i like them if it doesnt work out I at least know it can be done if i really need it. Trial and error

thanks for all the info and the copper fitting sounds easy if i decide to go that route.


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## cyrix (Jan 29, 2008)

Mr. Blonde said:


> You like Quentin Tarentino movies?


His comment was referencing your username involving "blonde." In other words he was implying you were being dumb with your assertions about the OP's inquiry. Your subsequent response only affirms his belief.


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## Gemini2k05 (Apr 19, 2005)

Just a pro tip, if you're starting from the bike setup in your signature (I assume that's the way it is right now?) just try some regular 30-31in mtb bars first, see how you like it. The truvativ boo-bars are pretty solid, come 31" wide and are 2inch or 1.5inch rise. I'm 6'7" and enjoying those right now. It also looks like you could stand to move your crowns/integrated stem up a little more. Dunno if your steerer tube has any more room but you not topped-out on the stanchions.


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

cyrix said:


> His comment was referencing your username involving "blonde." In other words he was implying you were being dumb with your assertions about the OP's inquiry. Your subsequent response only affirms his belief.


You fail at sarcasm.


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## cyrix (Jan 29, 2008)

Mr. Blonde said:


> You fail at sarcasm.


Oh lighten up francis.


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## davep (Mar 11, 2005)

airmiller44 said:


> ...having hard time finding 3 inch rise ...


There is a very good reason for this!


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

Gemini2k05 said:


> Just a pro tip, if you're starting from the bike setup in your signature (I assume that's the way it is right now?) just try some regular 30-31in mtb bars first, see how you like it. The truvativ boo-bars are pretty solid, come 31" wide and are 2inch or 1.5inch rise. I'm 6'7" and enjoying those right now. It also looks like you could stand to move your crowns/integrated stem up a little more. Dunno if your steerer tube has any more room but you not topped-out on the stanchions.


im pretty close to being topped out but your right i can move the fork a little higher to raise the bars a little. steer tube is maxed out there is one spacer below the skull stem and its got a decent rise to it.

ill try raising out stanchions, every little bit will help.

Thanks


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## airmiller44 (Aug 20, 2009)

davep said:


> There is a very good reason for this!


LMAO on twisting my words nice one tho haha


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## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

OP. Just get as set of 30 in MTB bars. Deity, Cromag, Sunline,... ect.. what ever your heart desires. I believe my Dirty 30's have a 1 or 1.5 inch rise, as for the others not sure. 

Then maybe get a new stem. You know, something with a bit more rise / stack hieght to it. From what I read, and it was a tough read, you are running the Direct mount on your 888? You could think about dropping that for something non-direct mount. That should raise your bars approx 2-3 inches. Hell if your steertube permits, you can raise it 4 inches using spacers. I would be more apt to try this route that to fabricate some shims for moto bars. 
But, if you are gonna do it, good luck! What works for some, doesn't always work for others. But please post some pics.
~Sodak


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## mtbames190 (Nov 18, 2005)

airmiller44 said:


> I want some mean pro tapers. anyone know of any clamps?


Then go buy some protapers that are made for mtb. Ever think of that????


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## adamantane (Jan 27, 2005)

handlebars made for dirtbikes are too wide in the middle in my experience...but 31.8 diameter is 31.8...if they work for you go for it...you can get used oversized bars for dirtbikes for like $20


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## zerossix (Jul 25, 2004)

Truvativ Boobar.

http://www.sram.com/en/truvativ/freeridedownhillpremium/boobar/boobar.php

780mm

First post in like 4 years, I'm back in the game.

edit: nearly three...


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## frorider (Apr 2, 2005)

i am liking my 31 inch wide race face FR atlas bars. A bit more sweep than the boobars, i believe.

you can get shims made that will do a good job here but if i were you i'd get some 31 inch mtb bars and play around w/ stem and spacers until you get the hand position you want.


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## IFELL (Jan 18, 2005)

*To answer the original question...*

I have two bikes with mx bars on them right now, an urban assault bike (Mountain Cycle Rumble) and a fixed gear MTB (Monocog). All you need is a BMX stem, which has the same clamp diameter as your standard/traditional mx bars. One bike has Fly X7 mx bars and the other has EMGO quad bars. Just be cautious of the different back and upsweep compared to MTB bars.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Why stop at just the MX bars? Man up and put on a whole MX fork (this topic has been covered here extensively as well). With the MX fork you can easily mount MX bars........


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## norbar (Jun 5, 2007)

airmiller44 said:


> If I can find a bar thats over 30 inches wide with 3 inch rise and 31.8 clamp and reasonable price ill go for it. but im not seeing anything i Like. I need a rise im 6'4 and always feel i need them higher. for my dirtbike i got 3 inch rise and the clamps have risers its still a little low for me.
> 
> I will keep hunting and at least i have this in the back of my mind.


Actualy you don't need extra rise if you are higher. The frame may be too short for you but lengthening the bike with higher bars is stupid and will make your weight ballance funky. Don't mean to offend you but you seem like a person who gets his idea with little to no care for real life experiance of the rest of the world. While sometimes it may be good but it is usually as long as you are not swimming against the current of LOGIC! 
Get yourself normal bars instead of ****ing up your riding position - get them wide not really high - ie 800mm kore (or gravity if I'm not wrong). If you really need high (which for real dh is kinda stupid ) go with spank 777.


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## davec113 (May 31, 2006)

Yup, my bike came with a Bonty 50mm 10 deg. stem, I went to a direct mount with lower rise bar and it was a really big difference. I may actually throw a thicker spacer under the top crown to bring them back up a bit, they're lower than my trail bike handlebars now. OP, I can sell you the Bonty stem for cheap if you want it... it's white.


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## wcpa911 (Jan 6, 2017)

Alloy 28.6mm Mx bars weigh somewhere between 700 and 850 grams depending on the rise. For perspective, race oriented bmx bars with 8" rise tend to weigh between 650 and 750g and are made with 22.2mm chromoly. 
Now, the highest rise, widest, renthal alloy mtb bars weigh about 310-360g depending on year of make. These bars supposedly can withstand almost anything you can throw at them on a bike. You could go carbon dh and drop an additional 100g or so and still be pretty damn tough. 

But, for an additional 500-600g, over a pound of weight, you can get the toughtest bars in the world. I've crashed hard numerous times and have never bent a set of renthal or pro taper mx bars. I'm talking cartwheeling bike down a hill I didn't make it up.
To answer your question, the simplest thing to do would be to get yourself a pair of 7/8" (or 22.2mm) renthals and a bmx stem. The stem would be significantly stronger than a dh stem, as would the bars. You even get a cool crossbar pad bc you'll obviously need it. They also make 8" for pit bikes which used to get thrown on our bmx bikes. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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