# Some bar stock, 3 MC-e's and a Maxflex 3



## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

So I spent months trying to work out how I could drive a triple MC-E with my existing 14.8v batteries. I found a couple of possible drivers but all had their problems. In stepped StevelKnivel that assured me I could use a maxflex to drive two parallel strings of 6 die. This would only give each string 600mA, not the 700mA I greedily wanted, but this was the best option by far. Thanks StevelKnivel

This was to start as a simple build using lots of aluminium "flat bar" laminated together to make the light body to house a triple MC-E build. Then it was suggested that a laminated body was not a good heat sink, something about junction temps Thats where it stalled.

Then Troutie offered lots of encouragement and advise. Below is the build details of what followed.

Step 1
Plan what you are building. I used this program http://www.cadlogic.com/products/draftit/
Thanks again Troutie
Sorry but I can't post my drawing. If you want a copy then PM me, but you will need to download the above program

Its easier with pics









































Hope I haven't bored you all. Trail pics and video, the real reason I built this, will follow in the not too distant future.

Thanks heaps to Steve, Smudge for the heads up on the wire, my mate Rob who insisted this couldn't be done (it only made me more determined) and of course Troutie. Much appreciated.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

WOW FANTASTIC WRITE UP AND BUILD THERE STU 

I cant wait to see the video


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Uh, wow! What kind of blade do you have on your saw?


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

One of the best write ups I have read emu, Well done. The light looks pretty darn bright too... I bet you are happy with it :thumbsup:

How are you finding the beam and what optics went into it... apologies if that is listed in the post somewhere, I went looking but couldn't find it.


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## sxr-racer (Nov 17, 2005)

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/59001.html

You needed one of these. I would think after the time you spent drilling all those holes that the cost of one of these would have paid off!!!!!!!!!

Looks good.


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## HuffyPuffy (Jun 9, 2008)

Great looking light, that is a very clever case design!


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## mdsjack (Oct 26, 2007)

which lenses for your Old and New builds?


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## StevelKnivel (Jun 23, 2007)

Very nice write up and awesome light! I'm glad the maxFlex is working for you!


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## hootsmon (Feb 7, 2008)

An inspiring write-up, and an awesome light. Well done!

Out of curiousity, how did you cut the screw-threads in Step 7? Is it worth the trouble to use taps & dies, or simply drill & cut threads using steel-bolt itself?


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## kgardnez (Jan 31, 2004)

I would highly recommend using a tap for the treads, otherwise you might never get the bolt out of the galled aluminum.


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

Nice job. Great photos!


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks guys for all the positive feedback 

Now to try and answer the questions

Pinkrobe, 
I'm using the standard blade that came on my Metabo compound saw. It is a 210 x 2.8 x 30mm 42T blade. The teeth have a negative rake on them. The important thing to remeber when cutting the aluminium is to not try and take too much at once. The fins are 5mm deep but each groove was cut with about three passes. Its also important to remember to use lots of lube. The blade was regularly sprayed with WD40

Ocean Breathes Salty,
Wrapped with the output, but not so the beam patterns. I used the XR-E XLSL -7090- 247 optics from cutter. It currently has 2 x 8* and a 25* in it. The 8* have very noticeable donuts and have an overall useable beam width almost identical to the 25*. The overall beam is quite wide but I wanted more of a flood pattern because this will primarily be used for night videos with my GoPro cam. I'll reserve final judgement at the moment till its been on trail

SXR-Racer,
Nuh what I needed from the start was one of these 







it made a huge difference to how quickly I was able to drill everything out. Next time though I wouldn't do the perimeter drilling like that, it was a PIA

mdsjack,
new lenses, see my response to Ocean Breathes Salt. The old lenses are the square Ledil ones from Cutter. From memory a SS, Diffused and Medium

Hootsmon,
as kgardnez said, definitely use a tap and die set. I got this Frost set







from Bunnings for about twice the price of what I paid for the individual "taps" I bought, which were the ones I broke.

Again, thanks for all the positive feedback.

Night video will follow, the real test


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

emu26 said:


> you wont see on the night trails till early next year when I return from the states,


:arf: what so no video till then :arf:


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## Guest (Dec 3, 2008)

Hi Emu26 / Stuart,

Great work when will you next be out for a night ride so I can join you.


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## cytoe (Jan 20, 2004)

Nice looking light. Your writeup looks better than most product manuals.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks Cytoe, my mates reckon I like the sound of my own voice so maybe that helps

Oh look, there's one of them now. 
Hi Beany, sadly you won't see me on the night trails till early next year when I return from the states, maybe you should hook up with that other new guy Hot Rod

Just worked out how to post the plan. Phone camera pic of my computer screen, bodgey but it'll give you the idea


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

You could do a printscreen and save it as a jpeg 

Lets see if this post goes in the right place


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## }SkOrPn--7 (Aug 15, 2008)

Thanks Emu for a great write up and help so far this is a really stellar thread.


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

}SkOrPn--7 thanks mate, parts list and suppliers as requested

hyperlinks are to suppliers

Battery - 14.8v 4.8Ah Li-Ion protected

Driver - MaxFlex3 with the following settings
-	Current 1200mA
-	Low Bat warning @ 13.5v
-	Mid Bat warning @ 14.0v
-	Warning indication Flash through main LEDs
-	Duomode selected @ factory levels

LEDs  - 3 Cree MC-E M bin WG tint 
-	wired as 2 parallel strings of 6 die @600mA each

Optics - Cree XR-E XLSL-7090-247
-	2 8* and 1 25*

Connector - 2.5mm DC In line jacks

Wire - internal 7 x .20 PTFE
-	to connector ? Just some scrap twin I had

Aluminium - 40 x 40mm 6061(?) solid bar


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## Pitto (Sep 26, 2005)

major bit of DIY milling there. a sprial milling cutter used with the cross slide vise would may have sped things up. still a top effort.


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

You built that housing with just a chopsaw, drill press and some hand tools!?! That's awesome:thumbsup: 

JZ


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks heaps Jim, but I think Aaron has taken it to the next level
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=5158873#post5158873

Don't know if I should hang my head in shame at my comparitively slopy work or step up to the plate and start the companion helmet version


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

No shame needed it is a brilliant build with the tools available

Though aarons is very nice too .

With what you have learnt the next one will be even betterer


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## ocean breathes salty (Oct 1, 2006)

emu26 said:


> Don't know if I should hang my head in shame at my comparitively slopy work or step up to the plate and start the companion helmet version


Aaron's router bit in combination with your shiny new cross slide vice should be just the trick to perfect your next build. You have to step up :yesnod:


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

ocean breathes salty said:


> Aaron's router bit in combination with your shiny new cross slide vice should be just the trick to perfect your next build. You have to step up :yesnod:


Unfortunately for my family, garage floor and bank balance, that was always going to be the right answer


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Can't believe this over two years old and I've barely used it.

Improvements are on the way


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