# Ammonia - Stuck Seat Post - What's your best technique?



## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

Got a very nice Rocky Mountain Hammer that I picked up for a song and that was in good condition with the exception of a stuck seatpost. Nothing else I have tried has worked so was going to try the ammonia trick that I have read about elsewhere.

Anyone have any advice on how long to treat the seatpost with ammonia? Did you do multiple rounds? How many hours did you leave it sit at a time? Anything else special you did?

Thanks in advance for any insight you may have.


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## mrjustin007 (Jul 22, 2008)

I tried many different methods to remove a stuck seatpost from a WTB Phoenix. Ammonia, WD-40, PB Blaster, dry ice, coke etc, etc. I ended up clamping the seatpost in a bench vice and twisting. Took about 1/2 hour to break loose. Take your time & go slow.


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

I've never used this stuff, but I am incredibly curious to know how well it works:

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - Chill Zone?

Other than that, the above referenced bench vise/wrestling combo works often. I've used Marvel Mystery Oil as a penetrating agent, based mainly on the prevailing superstition at a shop I used to work at.


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

Hmm, worth a shot with that finish line stuff. Already tried the vice approach and that bugger will just not let go. I am afraid that if I clamp the post any more it is going to deform the seat tube itself.


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## lewisfoto (Nov 12, 2013)

I have tried many different products but the seized area of the post literally becomes bonded to the seat tube which prevents the lubricant, ammonia or whatever from getting to the problem. I have found that torque is the only way to get the post out, which usually means that the post will be sacrificed. As a last resort try caustic soda, it dissolves aluminum but leaves steel alone. Clearly you can't do this with an aluminum frameset.

Linky:

Caustic Soda to melt stuck seatpost: COMPLETED!! (see p.2) | Retrobike


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

Someone here mentioned using a hammer drill with a chisel bit:
http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/ultimate-stuck-seat-post-fix-865635.html

I've not had the chance to try it out either, but this and the Finish Line stuff are interesting. I've removed a bunch of stuck posts in my time, the bench vise is always part of the solution.


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## Harryman (Jun 14, 2011)

Take the seat off (d'oh!) and heat the post with a torch, don't be shy, get it hot as hades. Let cool, you can toss some water on for grins if you'd like. This will often pop the bond and it's always fun to play with fire.


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

yep that is the weekend plan there as well. I also grabbed some of the stuff Jak0zilla mentioned too just in case. Never have had one so stubborn. Shortly I am just going to cut the dang thing out....... Post is already junk because of the vise. I just can't get over it being stuck so hard that it will spin in the vise instead of letting loose......


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## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

Last one I did I used crushed ice in the seat post and heat on the steel frame. Seat post was clamped in the bench vise. I stood on my workbench and twisted and pulled up on the frame. Worked well and entertained the neighbors. Next time I'll do it with the garage door closed.


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## Joe Steel (Dec 30, 2003)

I've never tried it, but I've heard of mixing ATF with acetone as an old ranchers trick to free rusted parts. Just googling, I found this interesting study: 
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Joe Steel said:


> I've never tried it, but I've heard of mixing ATF with acetone as an old ranchers trick to free rusted parts. Just googling, I found this interesting study:
> https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html


I've been using this, it's damn good. My father restores vintage farm machinery so he has to deal with a lot more rust than I do. The acetone does a good job of thinning so the mix penetrates a lot better. Thing is, a chemical bond is still a chemical bond and sometimes you have to resort to hot/cold methods or chemical warfare, but the acetone/ATF blend is a good one to keep on hand.

I just picked up an old Kona, not a lot of original parts but it does have the original Race Lite seatpost. It was stuck, so I tried some WD40 as a first step and a bit of twisting in some soft jaws in the bench vise. It came out okay but there some deep scoring in one part of it. Put a straight edge against the post and yep, it's bent. Dunno how it got jammed down that far in the first place but it did. The bend is about half way down so cutting it off above the bend is not an option unless I want to run an extreme dirt jump set up, which I don't.

Grumps


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## Fiskare (Sep 5, 2008)

First, I wouldn't clamp the SP in a vice and twist the frame. That's not a stress the frame was designed for. Like many others, I cut the SP out with a saw put together for the purpose. I have added the hammer drill technique mentioned by another forum member. That's a great way to go, but when it doesn't work I cut it and then hammer drill the carcass out of the ST. Here is a pic of the tool I use.


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

I am waiting to see if the finish line stuff will work at all but if not it is on to the saw.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Before you move onto the saw, which with patience will work....
You cut the seatpost right? Put something in the seatpost so it won't squish on the table vise. Maybe take the top piece you cut off down to the hardware store for a snug fitting something. Maybe a socket, pipe, ?
You're leaving the wheels on the frame right? it'll keep the frame from bending much better if you do. 
Think shock, jerk, snap, not just force to break it free. 
Is the frame aluminum too?


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## dcrowe (Oct 9, 2009)

I have another method. Drill it out using an Irwin Speed bore bit or similar. I did this with a pugsley once after giving up on heat and torque. A 1" bit will fit in the seat tube and do the job without damage to bit or bike. Left with a wafer thin bit of alum that was easily pulled out with some force. 

Note that this suggestion is only for OP rocky hammer with a 26.8 post and a steel frame. Not a good idea with alloy frame!


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## datmony (Jul 12, 2012)

That is not a bad idea at all.  I like that idea.....


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## Fiskare (Sep 5, 2008)

This is the last one I yanked. It pretty much speaks for itself. No affect on the frame.


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