# Torque wrench - how necessary?



## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Aside from slapping pedals on and changing flats, I've pretty much let my LBS handle repairs for me. As I result I have very few tools--allen multi-tool, pedal wrench--that's about it aside from my regular home tool box mish-mash. I'd LIKE to get better outfitted and start doing more of my own work, especially as now my main ride is a rigid single speed--I mean, if I can't handle THAT….!
So, how critical is a torque wrench for basic stuff? I have no carbon parts (yet--I may at some point put on bars). For example, I have some new locking grips I intend to throw on--the packaging gives a torque rating but can't I just "feel it out"? I certainly know how NOT to strip screws.
Or, is a good torque tool a must-have in the bike tool box? I was looking at 'em online and they're not cheap!


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## HitmenOnlyInc (Jul 20, 2012)

One of the most important tools you can have!

These work great! 
CDI Torque Products TorqControl TLA28NM Screwdriver, 2-8 Nm, 1/4-Inch Hex Magnetic Bit Shank with 6 Bits - - Amazon.com


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

If you have a good feel for not stripping threads, you can definitely live without one.

For more delicate components it is very much advisable.


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## ljsmith (Oct 26, 2007)

When dealing with carbon frames or parts a torque wrench is a necessity. Otherwise its a nice tool to have, but definitely not needed if you have a good feel for tightening bolts. I do all my own work on my bikes and I buy tools as I need them. I bought my first torque wrench when I bought my first carbon frame.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

ljsmith said:


> When dealing with carbon frames or parts a torque wrench is a necessity. Otherwise its a nice tool to have, but definitely not needed if you have a good feel for tightening bolts.


Sums it up. I've worked on machines of all kinds for decades, I have several torque wrenches, but for the most part the only place I use them is on the car. There are several reasons.

Firstly, many of the fasteners on bikes are very small so the margin for error is small too. With an Allan key you can feel how tight you are doing up a bolt but most torque wrenches are physically much larger and longer which ironically can make it easy to over tighten the bolt. The only way around this is to totally trust the wrench, but...

Most torque wrenches are not that accurate down at the sort of forces used for tiny fasteners and most won't cover all of the bolts on a bike. Ideally you need at least two. Plus you need to know what the required torque actually is. Some components have it printed on them but a lot don't and rough guides are just that. I made up a chart years ago listing the correct torque for dozens of different parts but I never use it. Too many times I found that I tightened the thing up to the given torque and it was too loose.

If you are good with your hands and have a good feel for mechanical things I think the best thing to do is learn how to feel how tight things are. Looking at the advised torques is a good idea though as it lets you know how tight different fasteners are relative to each other but alloy is soft and easy to strip. You really want to get a feel for how much force to use.

One idea is to try and find some scrap parts and experiment. Deliberately tighten up a stem until you strip the threads, it happens quite suddenly and you'll be surprised by how easy it is. An Allan key is a lever and applies more force than you might realise. Look at the size of the bolts, the length of them and get a feel for how much metal you're dealing with. Think about what the bolt is doing, how tight it needs to be.

Generally speaking most bolts are good when they get to the point where they hit the end, plus about a quarter of a turn max but you need to feel it. You need to respect the size and material of the fastener and component.

on the other hand, if you want to use carbon bars, buy a torque wrench and make it a flippin good one! ;0)


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Thanks folks! I think I can get by for now then--all I intend to do in the near future anyhow is put some new locking grips on. If I do get a set of carbon bars my LBS will put them on for free they said (I just bought this particular bike a month ago).

I do want to get tooled up I can be more self-sufficient with bike maintenance eventually. I'd actually love to take a bike maintenance/repair class if I can find one here in the Los Angeles area. Youtube videos are great but there's nothing like live in person, hands-on instruction.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I have a 5Nm torque key to deal with clamp bolts for handlebars and seatpost. I use it as much to ensure I don't over-torque carbon as to make sure that I am evenly tightening stem faceplate bolts. For alu seatposts and most other items, I'm not terribly concerned.

I do pay more attention to crank bolts, also. On my Bucksaw with RF Turbine CINCH crankset, a torque wrench helped me diagnose that I had one too many spacers on the spindle, and helped me make sure that I was tightening the fixing bolt tight enough. 50Nm is no joke, and I do not have a good feel for something that tight, especially on a crank arm that wants to rotate as I tighten it. I used a simple beam style one for that. They're fairly inexpensive and they work. I also got a set of socket-type allen bits to use on it (or a ratchet).


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

NateHawk said:


> I have a 5Nm torque key to deal with clamp bolts for handlebars and seatpost. I use it as much to ensure I don't over-torque carbon as to make sure that I am evenly tightening stem faceplate bolts.


With carbon I don't really see that you have a choice. It's too critical. I have a friend who buys lots of second hand carbon stuff but I wouldn't touch it. You don't know what's been done to it.


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## Max24 (Jan 31, 2013)

HitmenOnlyInc said:


> One of the most important tools you can have!
> 
> These work great!
> CDI Torque Products TorqControl TLA28NM Screwdriver, 2-8 Nm, 1/4-Inch Hex Magnetic Bit Shank with 6 Bits - - Amazon.com


That's exactly the one I use. Works great!


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## root (Jan 24, 2006)

I don't have a torque wrench appropriate for bike and have gotten by years without it. I do have now a carbon bike w carbon bars but still do without. If you've got a good feel for fastners you can get by fine. With carbon parts it is advisable though. Lock on grips will be fairly hard to overtighten as the allen key is super thin, not to say it can't be done. Oh, and if you do get a toque wrench, make sure you read the correct spec. I recall someone posting on forums saying he used a wrench, but he was reading it wrong using the wrong scale and totally overtorqued and snapped bolt. Just about all wrenches designed for home mechanic and car use are too big.


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## borabora (Feb 16, 2011)

Own one but don't really use it. I do use carbon paste on most small parts whether carbon or not. I find that I don't have to apply a lot of torque for things to be tight when using the paste. For bigger threads such as pedals, bottom bracket, suspension bolts etc. I think over-tightening and stripping the thread would take an effort.

I used to own a Trek Madone carbon road bike that had an inverted seat post. So the post was female and the frame portion was male. Stupid design. I used the torque wrench on the seat post as over-tightening could crack the frame.


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## gsa103 (Sep 1, 2014)

Richey Torque Key or equivalent is the most useful for bikes (CDI thing above looks great but expensive). Most parts where you care about torque are small and difficult to get a standard torque wrench on. Most torque wrenches are for higher values and aren't accurate at the ~5 Nm that most bike parts want. A Torque Key or similar just replaces the allen wrench you would normally use to tighten.

You don't need a torque wrench if you're not a gorilla and don't have carbon parts.


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## bigkat273 (Jan 16, 2008)

My dad gifted me a pair of snap on torque wrenches (ft/lbs & in/lbs) a few years ago. Local dealer calibrated them for free and I use them all the time. But when working outside my house they have given me a better feel for what a given amount of torque feels like. So it's win win for me.


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## Betarad (Oct 24, 2009)

I also have several really good Snap-on torque wrenches from my previous life as a heavy equipment mechanic, but all those years wrenching (and busting a few bolts along the way) has conditioned my “feel” for fastener tightness, so I rarely use them. One application that I always use my in/lb torque wrench on however, is the cassette fastener. It’s a bit of an odd configuration for a fastener, and I found out the hard way many years ago that it strips pretty easily, yet it’s critical that it gets tightened adequately. Never had any issues whatsoever tightening my cassettes since using a torque wrench religously.


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## terrasmak (Jun 14, 2011)

I only use mine on engine internals and lug nuts.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

I have one but don't use it on the bike to be honest. I have checked a few times and I'm usually in range. You know when you're forcing something, and you should know what not to force.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

I am a firm believer in having the correct tool for the job. When I put swap wheels/tires on my vehicle I use my torque wrench, and when I wrench on my bike I use a torque wrench on any parts that have a value provided by the manufacturer. 

Know what? I can honestly say I have NEVER stripped a bolt/mounting interface on any of my bike stuff, car stuff, motorcycle stuff (including aluminum cylinder heads etc).

Ya, It was a $100 investment - but it has saved me lots of $$$ over the past 20 years.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

I have one, but have never used one on a bike in the 25 or so years I've been working on them, and I haven't stripped or broken anything in at least 7 months.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

006_007 said:


> I am a firm believer in having the correct tool for the job.


Your hand is a far more advanced instrument than any torque wrench and sometimes is the correct tool for the job.


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## kyle242gt (Nov 12, 2012)

Twenty+ years of wrenching on cars, I figure my internal torque wrench is well calibrated. But I have yet to mess with anything mission critical (rear suspension bearings for instance).


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

The only times I use a torque wrench is when working on carbon, and my engine block and lugs. I'm not advocating not using one but after a while you get a feel for how right the bolts should be.


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

I haven't used one on my bikes ever. And I've never had a failed carbon part(first carbon bars were in the late '90s). So either I have a fairly well calibrated torque hand or the acceptable range is greater than people think.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

TBarnaby said:


> So either I have a fairly well calibrated torque hand or the acceptable range is greater than people think.


Bit of both probably.


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## sinfony78 (Dec 2, 2012)

have a 2005 hardtail...i'd tighten bolts on that thing by hand without any issues, bike is still good to this day...since i got a new bike 2 years ago, i got a torque wrench, but basically, just don't be stupid when tightening and it's all good...i've actually been stupid on the old bike, but the thing still rides great with no component issues

but i'll reiterate what everyone says, once u go carbon, i'd go with a real wrench


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## jekylljim (Nov 10, 2014)

I believe warranties are void if you maintain your bike without adhering to the specified torques. They'd have to prove you haven't been using a torque wrench though - I would imagine this could be quite difficult unless there were other bolts on the bike obviosuly over-tightened.

I use one and it is good for piece of mind.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I don't usually feel like I need them, but these torque keys are so nice to use that I do so often with things like stems, chainring bolts, and seatpost binders with a carbon seatpost.

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

> Most torque wrenches are for higher values and aren't accurate at the ~5 Nm that most bike parts want.


There are torque wrenches commonly available for every fastener and torque.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Cleared2land said:


> There are torque wrenches commonly available for every fastener and torque.


Yes, pretty much, but it'll get expensive if you buy them all. You can cover most of the bolts on a bike with one bike-specific wrench.


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## bing! (Jul 8, 2010)

Harbor freight torque wrenches, fixes a couple hundred bikes in 3 years, no problem.

I use it mainly for brake caliper, crank arms, fork lower legs, suspension pivots, etc.

Around the cockpit, I use the Ritchey torque key as its preset.


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## dietz31684 (Mar 30, 2010)

I own one but have never used it on my bike. I even bought a set of metric allen key sockets specifically for my bike, but I've never used them. I service everything myself, but have no carbon parts. I would use for carbon. 

I'd say it 100% depends on how much you've worked on things. You can't just tighten the hell out of every bolt on a bike without stripping something.

So to answer "How Necessary?" - I say it depends on the person


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

If you are a serious at-home mechanic and have lots of carbon fiber bits on your bike, yes, its necessary. They aren't that much money. I use the Spin Doctor one from Performance and have been happy with it.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

gsa103 said:


> Most torque wrenches are for higher values and aren't accurate at the ~5 Nm that most bike parts want.





Mr Pig said:


> Yes, pretty much, but it'll get expensive if you buy them all. You can cover most of the bolts on a bike with one bike-specific wrench.


Well...Mr Pig you are correct, but my comment directly refered to gsa 103's comment that "Most torque wrenches are for higher values and aren't accurate at the ~5 Nm that most bike parts want." Wrong...there are torque wrenches COMMONLY availalable for every torque and fastener. I'm guessing he's refering to torque wrenches for tractors or something (Ft. Lbs).

And, to further expand on your comment Mr Pig...You really only need one torque wrench for most bike fasteners (a few rare exceptions) and that's a lower value (torque value [range], not cost value)and for domestic North America that would be an In. Lbs. torque wrench.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I got this. It'll work well for most of the bike bolts.

CDI TorqControl Adjustable T Handle Torque Wrench 2 - 8 Nm


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

RS VR6 said:


> I got this. It'll work well for most of the bike bolts.
> 
> CDI TorqControl Adjustable T Handle Torque Wrench 2 - 8 Nm


That looks pretty cool. Perfect size.


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