# Right xt crank arm is stuck



## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

The situation is as follows. I removed the left crank of shimano xt fc m 770 as it should be done. I removed the right crank arm several times over the last few years but now it seems to be stuck. Normally i give it a little pat with a hammer and it comes out easily. Now however, even with firm hits it doesn't move an inch. Any suggestions?


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

I've seen some signs of wear on Hollowtech2 crank spindles, so it is possible that there is some irregularity there, and it is binding at the bearings. You could try pushing the cranks up and down or side to side, looking for a spot where the spindle will come out.
Other possibilities...
- remove the left BB cup. That may give some free movement
- try to get some WD44 onto the spindle. It might free up something.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

I also tried to remove the left BB cup, seems so be quite stuck also, but i didn't apply to much force since i am a bit afraid for the carbon frame. Also applied something like WD40 but didn't help it seems. I will put on a bit more and use some more force.

What I do see is that the bearing sealing of the left side rotates together with the crank. I don't know if this should be the case?

Thanks for the reply!


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Piece of 2"x4" onto the spindle end and then give it a really good whack with a metal hammer, really good, it will come out. Now once you get it out you'll need to take some fine sand paper to it and polish it back up, check bearings, replace as necessary and then lots of good grease on reassembly. Finally know that you need to remove them every few months and clean and re-grease once this happens or it will stick again. I've got a XTM760 HT2 crank from 2005 that's still going strong, just need some TLC as there are some short coming to the external bearing setup, Shimano for me has the least, but left side bearing still goes way too fast compared to the right.


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## .40AET (Jun 7, 2007)

If a standard hammer doesn't work, move up to a bigger one until it comes out. Use the 2x4 as mentioned to protect the threads. I have a BFH that sad never failed me.

Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

I'd spray some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on the spindle where it goes in the BB bearings and let it sit for a while. THEN the 2X4 and the BFH. Then clean the shaft as LyNx suggested. While you have it apart take the cups off and replace the bearings with Enduros. They have bigger ball bearings and better seals thant Shimano. Use a lot of never-sieze or grease on the BB cups and lots of grease on the shaft when you put it back together. Too bad you live so far away or I'd say bring it over and I can teach you how to fix it. Good luck!


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies!

I managed to get the crank set out by tapping it quite hard with a steel hammer onto a piece of wood on the spindle. So once the left side was in the frame, it got stuck again an I used a smaller aluminium tube, put it in the BB and tapped the crank out. So it seems the problem is at left part just behind the part where you put the left crank arm on. I also see some stripes there. So i will clean it properly.

Bottom bracket is still quite stuck, but i ll try on that tomorrow.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You do know that both sides of a BB tighten the same way and undo the same way? I.E. One side has a reverse thread (drive-side) you undo both going in the same direction you pedal ;-)


PierreV.E. said:


> Thanks for all the replies!
> 
> I managed to get the crank set out by tapping it quite hard with a steel hammer onto a piece of wood on the spindle. So once the left side was in the frame, it got stuck again an I used a smaller aluminium tube, put it in the BB and tapped the crank out. So it seems the problem is at left part just behind the part where you put the left crank arm on. I also see some stripes there. So i will clean it properly.
> 
> Bottom bracket is still quite stuck, but i ll try on that tomorrow.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

PierreV.E. said:


> Thanks for all the replies!
> 
> I managed to get the crank set out by tapping it quite hard with a steel hammer onto a piece of wood on the spindle. So once the left side was in the frame, it got stuck again an I used a smaller aluminium tube, put it in the BB and tapped the crank out. So it seems the problem is at left part just behind the part where you put the left crank arm on. I also see some stripes there. So i will clean it properly.
> 
> Bottom bracket is still quite stuck, but i ll try on that tomorrow.


The bearings are almost certainly shot (due to corrosion on the spindle/bearing interface), so replace that bottom bracket, as others have suggested.

The spindle may or may not be salvageable. Pictures would help.


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## jochribs (Nov 12, 2009)

wschruba said:


> The bearings are almost certainly shot (due to corrosion on the spindle/bearing interface), so replace that bottom bracket, as others have suggested.
> 
> The spindle may or may not be salvageable. Pictures would help.


Agree 100%. And cleaning away the corrosion might actually change the diameter of the spindle, causing play. Use some fine steel wool, not emory paper or anything like that. WD-40 the area while ringing the steel wool around it. Good luck man. Hope it isn't too pitted on you.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

What bb are you using? I'm guessing it's one that doesn't use a plastic sleave between the spindle and ID of the bottom bracket.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

LyNx said:


> You do know that both sides of a BB tighten the same way and undo the same way? I.E. One side has a reverse thread (drive-side) you undo both going in the same direction you pedal ;-)


So I don't have to start with the left side?

Yeah bearings are most probably cooked. I heard an annoying noise during the last rides when I put power on the pedals. This is also why I'm taking it apart.

BB is shimano.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Ah, no, no you don't, but I guess that's how Shimano describes the install and removal, but I've done it boths ways without issue.


PierreV.E. said:


> So I don't have to start with the left side?
> 
> Yeah bearings are most probably cooked. I heard an annoying noise during the last rides when I put power on the pedals. This is also why I'm taking it apart.
> 
> BB is shimano.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

So drive side bearing came loose easily. Left side is still a pita. Also, bb was installed other way around compared to what tech docs say.


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## jochribs (Nov 12, 2009)

PierreV.E. said:


> So drive side bearing came loose easily. Left side is still a pita. Also, bb was installed other way around compared to what tech docs say.


Make sure you have got that right. You may be tightening the cup rather than loosening it. They (the cups) should both loosen towards the front of the bike. (If they're english) As in, put the wrench on the cup, in a forward orientation to the bike, and push 'down'. It will also help to have the wrench in that position and use the previously mentioned hammer to give the wrench some 'firm' taps, if you will. The taps help to create moment of inertia and shouldn't hurt the bike at all. Once you see a little movement, use hand strength.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

Yeah a got the direction right. Also bb was installed as it should. I only thought it was the case because the inner cover was still attachted to the left part and not to the right, as in the techdocs. 

So i used the hammer on the tool. It didn't come lose. 2 times i could turn it a bit with arm force but then it got stuck again. The bearing rotate more than 1 round but i don't see it coming out. So i'm starting to fear the thread has come lose in the frame.


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## jochribs (Nov 12, 2009)

Keep going. I'd give it a couple more whacks. If the threaded insert is rotating in the frame, you're already screwed, so trying again and looking closely at it to see what it actually moving isn't going to hurt anything anymore than that. 

Better yet, look at the threaded insert from the other side of the frame while moving the cup a bit to see what's going on. 1 turn isn't going to look like much, especially if there is a spacer/dirt there. You might actually be getting the cup loose. Good luck man.


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

I would spray the cup and whatever little bit of threads showing, both inside the BB (where the cup threads in to it); and the outside of the cup, with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. here is a thread I posted showing a threaded rod to hold the BB tool on the cup. That might help you be able to put more needed force on the wrench. Good luck with that. I'd like to hear how it all turns out.

http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/homemade-tool-keep-bb-cuptool-fixed-658693.html


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

The bb turned a few times round by using a hammer and sometimes just arm power. Still no signs that it is actually comming out. So i suppose i'm ****ed.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

oh that's nice, automatic swearing protection


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

There still isn't a gap between the BB cup and the frame?


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

Please post some pictures of the BB and the cup and show us what separation (if any) there is between the side of the BB and the cup. Did you try using any Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, or anything similar?
You may try turning it to the right (tightening the cup), for a bout 1/2 a turn of the wrench, and then go back to the left to loosen it. sometimes the "back and forth" action helps to break it free. Wish you lived here so I could see this "stuck BB cup". What frame is it?
Your predicament is very interesting and has aroused my curiosity, but I really feel your frustration......Hope you get it out soon with NO thread/cup damage.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

It is a cube elite hpc 2010 frame. And yes I applied penetrating oil lots of times.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Oh Boy, oh boy, oh boy, oh boy  Good luck dude, but sounds like you're in need of some professional help from a good shop who deals with carbon. I'd personally shoot an e-mail off to Cube and ask them their thoughts on this before your ruin the frame.


PierreV.E. said:


> It is a cube elite hpc 2010 frame. And yes I applied penetrating oil lots of times.


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## IRONMAN1518 (Jul 19, 2008)

Any update on your dilemma? Hope you were able to solve it without any destruction. Please let us know and send some pics....?


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

sliding some pvc over your wrench can help you to gently apply much more torque. a 2-3 ft section will give you a lot more force. Because you can be gentle with it you can detect if anything bad is happening vs whacking with a hammer. I have never done this with a stuck bottom bracket so I dont know if it will damage anything.


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## PierreV.E. (Mar 18, 2012)

So, an update. I didn't manage to get the left cup off. I removed the sealing so i could access the bearings and cleaned it. Greased it and installed sealings again. Also used a bit of sandpaper on the crank axle and put some grease on it, went back into the frame as it should. First few kilometers on the bike were fine, but creaking sound started again unfortunatly.


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