# Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rubs and sq



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I bought a Fuji nevada 1.6 29er and the brake is horrid. 

Came with Promax Decipher hydraulic brakes and whenever you align it after a week or so it starts to rub again

and the front won't stay straight to align neither. 

I am currently forced to disconnect both brake and ride with no brake which is somewhat dangerous.This is a brand new bike bought for Christmas.

I am so disappointed I am thinking of buying some Sain Style or Shimano mechanical brake on Amazon. Sainstyle is $75 for both kit front and back and they are I heard rebranded AVID BB5

But I am afraid that it will be like promax and will always rub

I wanted to scrap this for V brake but then realized the frame cannot hold vbrake. 

Huge mistake buying a bike with disk brake. If only I had known


----------



## hoolie (Sep 17, 2010)

Fred Flinstone also hates them.


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

Get someone who knows what they're doing to have a look at your brakes.

Take the bike back back to where you bought it, if you bought it from a shop.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

hoolie said:


> Fred Flinstone also hates them.


Touche' !
:lol:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

yeah I bought it from a shop

I took it back once and they aligned it and let out some brake fluid

But you know 3 weeks later same thing. Not enough clearance from brake pad to rotor. Hydro is only 1mm, how much will mechanical give me?

I got 6 months warranty on them but its so irritating to have to carry back this every month or few weeks just to solve this brake issue. 

A experienced mechanic told me he will be there Saturday and he said bring it when he is there so he can have a look at it. 

But I fear it will always give this problem because I red promax is garbage brake brand


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

hoolie said:


> Fred Flinstone also hates them.


What a douche

Just because disk brakes are all the rave right now don't mean that its even necessary.

The speeds that a bicycle move at, rim brakes are more than sufficient enough to stop the wheels. And too much power on the front will cause you to topple over.

I was fooled or atleast I THINK I was fooled into buying a bike with disc brake. I don't know if I have a bad experience and its an isolated incident and that people have disk brakes for years without ever having to adjust anything or if disk brakes are all bad in General.

I am new so I am seeking answers.

No need to be a douche


----------



## Cotharyus (Jun 21, 2012)

You're just having a bad experience. Having ridden mountain bikes on mountains, trails, fire roads, and the best looking gaps through trees we could find at the time (where there were no trails) since some of the first rim brake models all the way up to the latest and greatest, I can honestly say that my level of comfort is much higher with disc brakes than it ever was with rim brakes, especially on steep stuff that crosses streams and such. Rim brakes would go completely away for a period of time if they got wet or muddy, while I've never had that problem with discs. 

Certainly there's a chance you aren't riding conditions that require the stopping power available from discs, and would be fine with rim brakes, but much like suspension, people have decided that disc brake technology is the way to go, and it's unusual to find a bike without either of those two these days. I'd let a good mechanic take a look at what's going on, and be sure to tell them if there is some inherent problem with those brakes to replace them with something different. There's certainly nothing wrong with mechanicals, BB7's are the only way to fly for sheer reliability and simplicity, and they're also fully adjustable. There are any number of inexpensive hydro options from Shimano that will likely serve you well, too.


----------



## Rock (Jan 13, 2004)

john5220 said:


> What a douche
> 
> I am new so I am seeking answers.
> 
> No need to be a douche


What question did you ask so that someone can give answers? Your 4th post and you are already calling names? Lighten up. Have you ever been on the internet before? Smart-ass answers are part of what makes these forums fun as well as informative.

Straight talk. You bought a relatively inexpensive bike with inexpensive brakes. There is a reason they are inexpensive, they are not as good as more expensive brakes and may take extra time to set up and even then may not function as well or be as quiet as some brakes that may cost slightly more. Welcome to the wonderful world of upgrading. One of the favorite pass times of mountain bikers everywhere. Take this as a learning experience and try not to get so frustrated over bike gear issues. You can still ride right? It may not be the quietest ride you will ever take, but it sounds like you really need to get out and ride. Listen to what Cotharyus says. Good info and know that this will get fixed at some point.

If you do decide on an inexpensive upgrade, I recommend Shimano BR-596 brakes. You can get a set (front and rear) for $120-$140. Fool proof, quiet. Everybody loves them.

Welcome to the forum and mountain biking. We can be a surly bunch, but we have a lot of fun too.


----------



## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

The entire mountain biking world has been converted to disc brakes. They are on bikes costing 5 or 10 thousand dollars and more. You really think they are the worst thing ever invented or do you think the problem may simply be with you and/or your equipment?

I guarantee you that disc brakes are not the worst thing ever invented. Guitars are the worst thing ever invented. Every time I try to play one, nothing comes out except this horrible noise. Stupid guitars.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Is the brake rubbing the whole time, or does the disc just a rub at a certain point in the rotation? Sometimes if rotors are a little warped, the rotor will hit the brake pad at a certain point. Usually this can be solved by gently straightening the rotor. As long as the shop will do work for free, just bring the bike in. If there's a continuing problem, maybe they'll help you find another solution. In the mean time, you'll probably be fine riding with a little rub.

As far as discs vs rim brakes, decent disc brakes are way better than rim brakes. In the mountain bike world, this is pretty much a consensus opinion at this point.


----------



## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

You are talking about a POS brake being a POS....what did you expect?

Yeah, low end disc brakes are usually troublesome....they are meant to be disposable...not serviceable.

That being said....how often are you removing your front wheel? This seems to cause a lot of issues when it comes to disc alignment. Can't tell you how many times a customer came into the shop complaining that brake was rubbing....only to find that they were not getting the wheel back in the right way.

Also, good luck trying to put rim brakes on your disc specific bike....which they all are these days. What makes them "disc specific" you ask:

1. No posts on frame or fork for rim brakes
2. Rims have no braking surface for brake pads


Even road bikes and CX bikes are making the jump to disc brakes....just part of the evolution.....get used to it.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Yeah the shop will align it for free for the next 6 months.

Sometimes the brake will rub the whole time. If I adjust it will stop rubbing right now the back seems fine so I am using the back alone and have slackened the front.

Both will rub at a wobble but both rims are slightly out of alignment which causes the rub at certain points even when its aligned.

Remember also I am 260 pounds I am an Obese person so this may have a play in why all of this is happening.

Maybe I am too fat for a bike?

But I will carry it back tomorrow for a look in the shop but ultimately I know after thw warranty it will still rub. I just know it, cheapo brake.

I have however read promax brakes are total garbage.
This is the video I recorded of my bike anyways

Fuji Nevada 1.6 29er Mountain Bike in the Caribbean - YouTube


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Are you sure your front wheel is on right? The trueness of your rim has very little, if anything, to do with your brake rotor. If both are "wobbly," it's possible your wheel isn't all the way in the drop outs. I suppose it's also possible your rim is out of true and your brakes are having issues (weight could be an issue). Regardless, I wouldn't recommend messing with the brakes unless you know what you are doing. A little rub isn't a huge deal. Not being able to stop is.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

nah its in correct all the way.

The little rub I can excuse but it tends to squeak a whole lot when its rubbing. And it can sometimes range from slight rub that you don't notice to very noticeable that stops you.

Problem usually happens more often mid day in high wind. It really rubs and locks down hard in mid day sun and high wind.

Kinda like my old 1993 honda civic it never used to start in the sun. Sold it to buy a bike to avoid that problem and yet again LOL

Maybe the brake is just garbage?


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Your wheel being out of true has nothing to do with the brake.

The rotor will come out of true however. That may be the case as you are heavy and will put a lot of strain on the brakes. 

Try a set of BB7s. I haves those and the 5s, great mechanical brakes, easy to adjust. 

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## Shakester (Jun 26, 2012)

The squealing or squeaking, is usually from contamination of the brake pads. Any kind of oil, even from your fingers, on the rotor is enough to contaminate them. 

As for the rubbing, it could be the rotors itself. Some rotors warp and takes constant flexing back to have it stop rubbing. You can try removing the caliper and just spinning the wheel to see if thats what it is. If thats what is wrong with it, try replacing the rotors and see if that helps, making sure that the rotor is bolted on with even torque on all the screws as well.


----------



## Jem7sk (Jan 17, 2013)

I had a similar problem with some cheap Hydros... upgraded the rotor with a nicer rotor and it is perfectly straight with no issues at all. The cheap rotor that came with my bike would warp all the time. This one hasn't warped yet. The wheels spin forever now.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

john5220 said:


> i am currently forced to disconnect both brake and ride with no brake which is somewhat dangerous.


*BANZAI!!*


----------



## bgfthntr (May 18, 2009)

BB7's...... simple and effective....problem solved:thumbsup:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

So quick question

Which is easier to adjust and less likely to rub BB5 or BB7?

Also is this rebranded Avid? would you all recommend this sain style?

Amazon.com: SainStyle NV-5 HS1 Mechanical Bike Disc Brake Front+Rear Disc 160mm Rotor Brake Kit for Mountain Bicycle: Sports & Outdoors

I am looking for something on the more affordable category.

I am contemplating buying just 1 kit for either the front or back as I just use my MTB for commute to work which is only 4 miles on relatively flat roads.


----------



## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

smilinsteve said:


> do you think the problem may simply be with you and/or your equipment?


That's what she said?


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Are these rebranded Avid bb5 brakes? or a scam?

Amazon.com: SainStyle NV-5 G3 Mechanical Bike 160mm Rotor Brake Disc Kit for Mountain Bicycle: Sports & Outdoors


----------



## Shutter Jim (Feb 2, 2011)

john5220 said:


> Yeah the shop will align it for free for the next 6 months.
> 
> Sometimes the brake will rub the whole time. If I adjust it will stop rubbing right now the back seems fine so I am using the back alone and have slackened the front.
> 
> ...


You are a big person. This is not a criticism. I am a big person, too. What may be happening is that your big-ness is causing the axle in your wheels to flex (I'm assuming you have standard Quick Release axles on your bike). This flex is probably causing the rub on your brakes. This is probably why the shop is able to center the brakes while the bike is on the stand, but why you experience rub when you are on the bike.

As I see it, Your choices are to:

1.) Get a more stout QR axle (long-shot, and probably won't make a difference)

2.) Get a new wheel set that has stouter through-axles (very expensive)

3.) Do the best you can at riding as much as you can and drop about 40 pounds (time consuming and potentially frustrating, but much more fun in the long run, possibly).

Keep on riding!


----------



## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

Wheel bearings and hubs adjusted and tight? Wheels in the dropouts correctly? Start there.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

^^ ok thanks guys will check its adjusted proper in dropouts and yes its quick release. 

And yes it aligns good in the stand and when I sit on the bike and drop in a pot hole the brake comes out of alignment.

Perhaps it really is my fat rear? 

Spending plenty money is out of the question.

So what I am going to do is drop about 50 pounds. lol This is cheapest way out and healthier on my body.

But do you guys think there is still the chance that its the terribad promax brakes? and that avid bb7 can fix this problem or is it ultimately my fat rear?

Will Avid fox the problem even though I am fat or is it a no no and I have to lose the weight?


----------



## Shutter Jim (Feb 2, 2011)

john5220 said:


> ^^ ok thanks guys will check its adjusted proper in dropouts and yes its quick release.
> 
> And yes it aligns good in the stand and when I sit on the bike and drop in a pot hole the brake comes out of alignment.
> 
> ...


ProMax brakes are low-end. That said, I would hold off on replacing them with Avids or some other variety until you've dropped some weight (that is, unless, the brakes have totally lost their stopping power, in which case they should be replaced immediately). I believe the issue has to do with the weight. Another poster said to have the bike shop make sure that your hubs are properly adjusted, and this, too, is great advice. If there is too much play in the hubs, then this could be contributing to the issue as well.

You will lose weight if you ride frequently. I've reduced my girth significantly, and it is not exaggeration when I say that bicycling has literally saved my life.

Best wishes!


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

ok but what about the front now? there is little to no weight in the front of a bike and same problem.

And not only that when aligning the brake on the adapter it moves. You can flash a light from the other end and see when its aligned proper. But when you got to tighten it enough so it can hold proper without moving it shifts.

You need super human strength to hold it one spot to tighten it without moving. when i say tighten I mean the caliper on the adapter. Caliper keeps moving off the adapter and holding the brake lever does not help

Putting call cards between the disk and the pads don't help because again it moves off the 1mm.

Back however does not have this problem. Back goes out of alignment when I drop in a hole, man not even that the back goes out of alignment sometimes when you just hold a brake. However I am sure the back is super tight so the caliper does not move its something else.

That part could be my fat behind.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'd stay away from those you linked. Probably the same quality as the Promax. 

It's not your weight. Many rider's more "clydes" than you, including me. BB7 all the way, easily adjustable and good large pads. Would also recommend the 180mm rotors if you're doing a lot of hard braking. The 160's will work, just not as well. 160's are also slightly less likely to warp and rub, simply because they're smaller. I'd still go for the 180's. BB5 are nice, but smaller pad. Cost difference is small enough between them, get the good stuff. Will need new levers too. Any linear pull will work. Avid makes some called speeddial 7's that are supposed to be great. I want to get some for one of my bikes, just haven't done it yet. 

Shimano's hydraulics are supposed to be good also, lots of info on the forum about which are the most cost effective intro sets. They will cost a bit more than the BB7's, but worth it if you really push your brakes.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

^ thank you friend. I taught something was wrong and it probably was not my weight it does not add up

because again the brake can go out of alignment without even falling in a pot hole. I just am hell bent on it being trashy promax brakes.

I should also note both brake setups feel like its grinding on rough steel when I hold a brake at high speed. And you can hear loud grinding noises when you hold the brake at high speeds also.

It feels like something is going to snap or brake.

I heard the BB7 has some kind of third alignment bolt that allows for alignment that no other brake caliper allows so you don't need to rely on only the 2 bolts that the caliper is on.

For now I think I will go with the 1 BB7 setup.

*Question where do I put it? front or back? if you are using 1 brake should it be infront or back?*

I also wanted to get some road tires maybe 700x38c. should be better for commuting than my 2.1 inch knobbys yeah?

Meh I think will keep the knobbies lol. They get me from point A to B.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

These are a set I got, and I haven't had any problems. Some concern with the chinese ones being knock offs, but the calipers look legit. The rotors, definitely not real Avids, but they are still good rotors. Once you throw in some new levers, the price is pretty much on par with the Avid Elixer's though, so if I didn't have levers, I'd go up to the Elixer's.

New 2012 Avid BB7 Mountain Mechanical Disc Brake Calipers HS1 Rotors 160mm | eBay

2012 Avid Elixir 1 Hydraulic Disc Brake G3 Set White | eBay


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

so I realized the problem is not just the caliper refuses to remain still when tightening but the adapter also moves off its correct position. 

If I was superman I could hold the caliper one spot and align it.

how much MM clearance does mechanical brakes have? this hydro ius maybe 1mm or less

there are 2 washers on the end of the caliper bolt where the allen key goes in is that correct? no other parts has washers

i wonder why does 2 washer need to be in the same place


----------



## Jem7sk (Jan 17, 2013)

john5220 said:


> so I realized the problem is not just the caliper refuses to remain still when tightening but the adapter also moves off its correct position.
> 
> If I was superman I could hold the caliper one spot and align it.
> 
> ...


I had the same problem with my cheap rotors. Your rotors are warped. As I said earlier buying better rotors for $15 each fixed my problem.


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

john5220 said:


> so I realized the problem is not just the caliper refuses to remain still when tightening but the adapter also moves off its correct position.
> 
> If I was superman I could hold the caliper one spot and align it.


Post some photos of the brake setup.



> how much MM clearance does mechanical brakes have? this hydro ius maybe 1mm or less


Mechanical brakes can be setup so the pads are further away from the disc but this means that the brake lever will need to be pulled more before the brake engages, if the pads are too far away the brake rotor you won't be able engage the brake fully before the brake lever hits the handlebar grip.

The closer the pads are to the rotor the better but rotors need to be true.



> there are 2 washers on the end of the caliper bolt where the allen key goes in is that correct? no other parts has washers
> 
> i wonder why does 2 washer need to be in the same place


What are you talking about ?


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

watts888 said:


> Some concern with the chinese ones being knock offs, but the calipers look legit.


Legit like the following brakes but with a different brand name on them ?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/944314464/BICYCLE_BRAKE_CALIPER_ANS_02.html


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Google how to setup mechanical brakes. It sounds like to me you are attempting to eyeball it. There's a good method to it that's easy, I'm on my phone otherwise I would explain it. Google is your friend.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Also, if you upgrade your brakes, actually upgrade them. The BB7s can be had for 80 front and rear. Its a bargain for the adjustability and reliability

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

where you getting BB7 for that price?


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

You can get them cheaper then $80

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=Avid+BB7&_ipg=200&rt=nc


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

IS that really Original genuine avid BB7?

says shipped from hong kong. Can we trust that seller? cause I normally buy from Amazon.


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

fibica are knockoffs, bottom line. buy them from a reputable dealer. i know because i bought from them, a set of bb7's for a commuter and there are differences in calipers and rotors when side by side of the real deal. those from fibica don't set up easily either.

@fastbanana, he has hydros looking to buy mechs


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

fishwrinkle said:


> fibica are knockoffs, bottom line. buy them from a reputable dealer. i know because i bought from them, a set of bb7's for a commuter and there are differences in calipers and rotors when side by side of the real deal. those from fibica don't set up easily either.


Got any photos of the calipers side by side ?


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I see amazon.com llc has it for $50 per 1 rotor.

You can get them direct from amazon.com stocked in the US. not merchant or anything like that.

wonder if its worth $50 for just 1 rotor or just buy the whole knock off kit form ebay front and back for $60?


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

What a thread!

Okay, I'm a big guy (240 all geared to ride) and ride bikes with qr axles and flexy steal frames and forks. Occasional brake rub but not constant. I use decent quality mechanical and hydraulic brake sets and adjust as necessary. 

Just buy some BB7s and have someone knowledgeable help you set them up and show you the adjustments. 

The Sain brakes don't look like rebranded Avids. They are inexpensive but don't come with levers or cables so you have to figure those extra costs into your total.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

^ what do you think about fibica knock off replica BB7 brakes?

Any significant disadvantage over originals because Original BB7 costs $50 for 1 rotor alone.

IF there are significant difference in alignment and adjustment then I will go with 1 original BB7 from amazon.com as the seller because I know amazon.com sells originals

But $60 for front and rear BB7 calipers replicas with rotors is quite tempting. 

I am not into stopping power I just want something that holds fairly ok and don't rub.


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

@cobba, i don't but the red inner and outer dials on the fakes are more maroon where the real are red, even though the fibica pic shows red. the fake rotors have uni-directional milling where the real have multi directional and the logos are completely different colors. i had to send one fake back as it had bad machining where the piston seated into the caliper. the dials are also not very defined in the clicks when indexing the pads.


----------



## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

john5220 said:


> IF there are significant difference in alignment and adjustment then I will go with 1 original BB7 from amazon.com as the seller because I know amazon.com sells originals
> 
> But $60 for front and rear BB7 calipers replicas with rotors is quite tempting.


You get what you pay for. There is no free lunch.
If you want to take your chances go ahead, but don't say you weren't warned if/when it doesn't work out.
Buy the real deal, and only cry once.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

^^ I like that advice.

yeah I will go with the Originals its gonna cost me about $100 US alteast for rotors lever cables and a caliper genuine stuff from amazon LLC.

I trust amazon 100% with my life but not the merchants.

I see rocboys selling them but not interested in them I rather pay the extra from amazon LLC.

So no more crying for me. And for now 1 brake will do, will put it in the back I think. Later on I will buy for the front.

I also like the lever feel of mechanical brakes. Hydros only move a couple MM.

this is it btw

Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Avid BB7 MTB G2 Front or Rear Rotor (160mm)

$54 from amazon. And they have it stocked in the US so it will reach me quicker here in the Caribbean.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Why not buy just the BB7s calipers, levers and cables/housings and reuse your current rotors,thereby saving the money for new rotors? You can get BB7s with adapter brackets to work pretty closely with your current rotor size. I would never purposely ride with only one brake, especially since the front does about 70-80% of your stopping.


----------



## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

Glide the Clyde said:


> Why not buy just the BB7s calipers, levers and cables/housings and reuse your current rotors,thereby saving the money for new rotors? You can get BB7s with adapter brackets to work pretty closely with your current rotor size. I would never purposely ride with only one brake, especially since the front does about 70-80% of your stopping.


BB7's have always come with rotors....unless that has changed in the last couple of years.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

^^^ they also sell a less expensive assembly w/o rotors.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

john5220 said:


> ^^ ok thanks guys will check its adjusted proper in dropouts and yes its quick release.
> 
> And yes it aligns good in the stand and when I sit on the bike and drop in a pot hole the brake comes out of alignment.
> 
> ...


Your stock brakes are terrible, The 'SainStyle' brakes are a cheap knockoff.I suggest Avid BB7 with some quality brake cables and housing,that should solve most of your problems.I think it is possible that your wheels may be flexing under your husky body? inexpensive wheels tend to do that.I suggest staying with mountain bike tires, they tend to be more durable.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'd get new rotors. Assuming the rotors on your bike are Promax (same as the calipers), it's worth it to upgrade.


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

watts888 said:


> I'd get new rotors. Assuming the rotors on your bike are Promax (same as the calipers), it's worth it to upgrade.


He's trying to keep the costs down. I think it wise to have front and rear with the Promax rotors rather than just the rear with all Avid. That's why the suggestion. But I agree with you.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

I believe that there is a certain price one has to pay for quality bike components.Promax and crap like that are simply non functional components that only resemble mountain bike components.It seems like the OP needs to pay the lowest price possible for a set of brakes that are not going to fall apart,come loose all the time,have cheap rotors that warp easily? BB7s fit the bill.I am in his place I set the bike aside and wait until I can afford the BB7s and also try to determine if the wheels are staying true for more than a few days? also have the bike shop demonstrate how to properly secure the quick releases.I think your bike shop should give you more support? like selling you a set of brakes that work


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Again, I got front amd rear BB7s from a reputable dealer for 80. With rotors and hardware. And BB7s are an upgrade from any hydro lower than shimano quality. Sram, promax, other OE brands.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

BlueSkyCycling.com - 2012 Avid BB7 Disc Brake Combo Kit here is a decent price on a complete kit:thumbsup: showing you this since you will need everything listed on the kit.You may be able to save a bit more somwhere else.I thought this was a good deal since postage will be affordable from a single source.I am frustrated when a bike shop sells **** to someone new to the sport.


----------



## longhaulcommuter (Jan 3, 2014)

Two of my bikes are disc. One never rubs. The other rubs and I have spent more time fixing it than riding it. That may only be a slight exaggeration! Anyway, don't give up hope. I am sure the shop will fix it for free.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

IC2 said:


> BlueSkyCycling.com - 2012 Avid BB7 Disc Brake Combo Kit here is a decent price on a complete kit:thumbsup: showing you this since you will need everything listed on the kit.You may be able to save a bit more somwhere else.I thought this was a good deal since postage will be affordable from a single source.I am frustrated when a bike shop sells **** to someone new to the sport.


Hi friend thank you very much for the link.

This is a very good price. And it seems legit.

Do I have to buy it right now or can I wait? I mean is this some kind of special going on right now?

Because I have $600 US left on the loan for this bike

I paid back $100 so far because I only bought it last month.

I was contemplating selling it and getting a road bike but I like the upright position of a MTB.

And then a road bike can't hold my 260 pound arse


----------



## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

IC2 said:


> BlueSkyCycling.com - 2012 Avid BB7 Disc Brake Combo Kit here is a decent price on a complete kit:thumbsup: showing you this since you will need everything listed on the kit.You may be able to save a bit more somwhere else.I thought this was a good deal since postage will be affordable from a single source.*I am frustrated when a bike shop sells **** to someone new to the sport.*


When someone comes in with a very small budget, and all they can afford are the "****" bikes....that is what they are gonna get. 

The LBS does not spec the parts of the bike. :thumbsup:

Can't blame the LBS for any of this. :nono:

Can't tell you how many times a new rider/buyer came into the shop:

Buyerr: "Im looking for a FS bike with 6" of travel."
LBS: "What is your budget?"
Buyer: "I have $400....$500 max. :madman:


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

john5220 said:


> Do I have to buy it right now or can I wait? I mean is this some kind of special going on right now?
> 
> I was contemplating selling it and getting a road bike but I like the upright position of a MTB.


If they don't have it at this price, someone will. Always sales going on somewhere.

And don't you dare go roadbike. They are the devil. In reality, if you're thinking about that for commuting or exercise, I'd get a lightweight disc wheelset with some hybrid/road tires. A friend started getting into biking because me and some other guys were talking about it. He bought a $600 road bike because it looked good. It's a nice bike, but he doesn't enjoy it. I explained road biking as just going fast in a straight line with the wind hitting your face, while mountain biking is an adrenaline filled festival of the senses with the occasional crash. I hooked him up with a long-term loaner $40 Trek 820 and he rides it more than his road bike.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

All bike shops are reliable, they are never dishonest,lbs employees are never rude or condescending to customers.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

john5220 said:


> Hi friend thank you very much for the link.
> 
> This is a very good price. And it seems legit.
> 
> ...


The deal has been around for awhile and probably will be around indefinitely.I know plenty of guys your size that ride mountain bikes, they all have resorted to heavy duty components.Most the guys lost weight eventually,they were motivated to lose weight and mountain bikes are a fun way to do so.I hope that if you go with the Avid BB7s your problems are solved.I have built up multiple bikes and have relied on the internet to find good deals.Bluesky cycle is reliable.Good luck to you.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

As mentioned already, big dudes + cheap bikes/components = problems. I have friends that can just look at most bike parts that come stock on bikes and they break. They replace most of the stock parts over time with stronger parts. I live in an area where there's really no significant aggressive riding opportunities, but the big guys I know who ride have to buy freeride bikes and components so they can have some semblance of durability.

I agree with folks that are recommending Avid BB7's. I think they're better than most cheap hydros. Cheap hydros in most cases are a downgrade from cheap v-brakes. If you want quality hydros, you're going to have to spend some money.

I have a set of "BB7's" from fibica. They work. The manufacturing tolerances of them may be a hair looser than Avid's but they stop me on my commute bike. But like I said, if you want something good quality, you'll have to spend a little for it.


----------



## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles

Best brakes for the money. BB7s are great too.
NEW! AVID BB7 Brakeset w/ levers + rotors - Pinkbike


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

One last help I have decided to go with this combo

BlueSkyCycling.com - Avid Mechanical BB7 Disc Brake w/ HS1 Rotor 160mm

BlueSkyCycling.com - Avid FR-5 Brake Levers 2012

BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano Brake Cable

its $66 in total for a complete single kit for 1 side.

I am thinking back wheel? will use 1 brake for now. I cannot afford the avid kit for $140 but I can afford a single solution for $66 and this way I get my BB7 and I don't think I need more than 1 brake for now. After I pay out my loan I can order for the other wheel

Please tell me if those $9 avid Levers will work with the BB7

BTW these items are located in the US right? because my freight forwarder is located in Florida. ALA skybox that ships to the caribbean.


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i'd put it on the front


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

front. That's where you really want to do most of your braking from anyway. The lever's would work, but I'd hold out for the speedial 7's.

Another source. Hard to beat $35-$40 for a good (relatively speaking) set of front hydraulics. They're OEM takeoffs, so new, but were installed on bikes or returned from a factory where they would have been installed but never made it to a bike.
Disc Brake Sets - Brakes - Mountain


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

with the link above i'd go for the shimano slx set for $180. i suggest staying away from avid hydros. i've gone through 4 sets of different tier levels of the elixir lineup. 2 sets of 1's, set of 3's and my 2nd set of xo's i sold on flea bay to get shimano zee's. i couldn't have made a better decision. ime avid hydros leak and are constantly needing maintenance.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

john5220 said:


> One last help I have decided to go with this combo
> 
> BlueSkyCycling.com - Avid Mechanical BB7 Disc Brake w/ HS1 Rotor 160mm
> 
> ...


 BlueSky is located in California.The Avid FR-5 levers will work according to the description,not as adjustable as more expensive Avid mechanical brake levers....I would use them on one of my bikes.They have a toll free number if you have any concerns or questions, do not take our word for it.The shimano brake cable you mention would require a cable housing and assorted small hardware.Your bike shop may be a better source for a non hydraulic brake cable.It has been fun trying to help you out from all the way out here in cold Idaho territory.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

you need something like this and the right tool.BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Kit


----------



## The Understater (May 6, 2007)

John before you spend any more money, can you post a couple of close up photos or video of your brake calipers and mounts? There really shouldn't be any reason for the calipers to come out of alignment if they are set up correctly. If they are staying put, then it is possible that your wheels are moving in the dropouts, and it is the wheels causing the rubbing.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Will post later but I know the problem is with the trash brake. Cause bb7 has way more clearance also what would I be missing out on if I don't buy avid speed dials?


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Perhaps you can check out Price Point for the BB7's...on sale.

Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake 2013 | Avid | Brand | www.PricePoint.com


----------



## ziscwg (May 18, 2007)

I have to keep this one near my Lefty thread being the worst thing ever invented


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

john5220 said:


> what would I be missing out on if I don't buy avid speed dials?


It's not that the speeddial 7's are the best levers out there, but they are a really good match for the BB7's. The speeddials basically allow you additional control of the leverage that's applied to the brake. If you wanted to save money, really any long pull levers will work with the BB7's. Also, if your brake cable/sleeve isn't a good set, you probably won't notice much beyond what you'd get with a simple lever set either.

My opinion, if you're buying a set of BB7 brakes, you're going to need new levers & cables. If you've got to buy new ones anyway, a good set of cables and levers will cost a bit more, so it's worth it to me.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

john5220 said:


> Will post later but I know the problem is with the trash brake. Cause bb7 has way more clearance also what would I be missing out on if I don't buy avid speed dials?


Well this has been an interesting thread; and now I'll play:

If you can't set up your Promax brakes, you won't be able to set up any new brake you get.

You don't have the nicest brakes out there but they're certainly not disposable. There is nothing about that brake that makes it inherently impossible to get it to work properly. I fear you're not fully assessing the situation and you're trying to throw money at a problem. The BB7/5 will be easier to keep from rubbing because of the individual pad adjustment dials but unless the caliper is square and adjusted properly you'll lose braking power as you adjust to remove pad rub. The BB7s are just like any other brake; the wheel has to be in straight and firm on the QR, the rotor has to be true and tightly attached, the caliper mounting adaptor has to be tight, the caliper has to be aligned to the rotor properly, and everything has to be clean. If you're missing even one of those pieces (or any others I missed) then your brakes won't work properly no matter how much you spend on them.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

my hydro locks up in hot sun bro

has to be the brake is cheap and bad


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

john5220 said:


> my hydro locks up in hot sun bro
> 
> has to be the brake is cheap and bad


There is air in the system and it needs to be bled. Then your current brakes may work okay. Nice thing about cable brakes over hydros is no need for bleeding, only adjust as needed.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

john5220 said:


> my hydro locks up in hot sun bro
> 
> has to be the brake is cheap and bad


1. I'm not your bro.

2. Just like your car, the sun is not the cause of things not working.

The reason your brakes lock is that they aren't set up properly. Bleed them.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

ok might be worth it to go back to the shop and let them bleed them.

I supposed the people who said the brakes are terribad brands and I needed BB7 were wrong?

I say this thread has gotten even more interesting.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

*Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rub...*

Those brakes are cheap but not impossible to set up correctly.

BB7's are solid, reliable brakes and work well for what they are but are not better than good hydros.

Your weight may well be causing enough flex in the fork and/or wheels to be a significant contributing factor.

The best way to isolate complex problems here is to start with the simplest, cheapest solutions. Ensuring those brakes are set up and functioning correctly is absolutely essential to pinning down the problem. Make sure an experienced mechanic is doing it. Bleeding brakes is not a rush job for some inexperienced seasonal punk to be doing. It is not hard but is very detail oriented work. Same with aligning the calipers. With the tight tolerances it takes attention to detail to get right.

Only when your brakes are properly set up will you be able to tell if fork or wheel flex is contributing to your problems. Unfortunately, the problem won't just magically go away at a certain weight. Inexpensive components tend to flex more. I noticed that at 150lbs in college on my first mtb that cost less than what you have. Expensive weight weenie components also flex a bit. Bikes and components that don't flex much tend to cost some money. Durable stuff doesn't have to be hugely expensive but rarely is it spec'd on new bikes from the manufacturer. Either you wait to replace the flexy stuff until it breaks or you suck it up to upgrade earlier.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

john5220 said:


> ok might be worth it to go back to the shop and let them bleed them.
> 
> I supposed the people who said the brakes are terribad brands and I needed BB7 were wrong?
> 
> I say this thread has gotten even more interesting.


Let me put it this way: if you can't set up your current brakes reasonably well then you will have trouble with any brake no matter how much you spend.

There aren't a ton of things that could be wrong, it would benefit you to find out what your current issue(s) may be before you go thinking that just buying a new brake will solve everything.

You say your brake is rubbing, why is it rubbing? Let's go through some possibilities:

The caliper is off center relative to the rotor. You can usually check this by eye and be good enough. If the rotor appears to be in the center of the gap in the caliper then you're on the right track.
Your pads are extending and retracting unevenly. You'll notice this by looking at the amount the pistons are sticking out of the caliper. If one piston is sticking out more than the other you may have a sticky piston. Also check to see that both pistons are moving in and out and doing so at the same rate. If you need to clean it up and press the pistons back in.
Caliper is not aligned to the rotor. The caliper can be out of alignment in at least two directions. First check that the caliper is hitting so that the front edge and back edge strike at the exact same time. Visually that would be an even gap all the way from the front of the pad to the back on both sides of the caliper. The caliper can also be misaligned such that the caliper is "twisted" in relation to the rotor meaning that the top of one pad and the bottom of the other would strike first. This is harder to fix on non-Avid brakes and on Avid brakes I loathe the adjustment for this issue but, I guess, it at least has it (CPS washers).
If, even after very careful adjustment, the pads are still rubbing you still have some work to do. First, re-bed in the pads. One brake at a time, find a good hill where you can drag the brake and heat it up or pedal around dragging the brake to heat the pad up. When you've gotten it pretty warm, so that you wouldn't want to touch it but not so much that the rotor discolors then douse the caliper, pads, and rotor with water. The brakes will probably be pretty weak after this. Now proceed with the normal pad bed in procedure of doing a series of firm brakes. Repeat with the other brake. After this you might need to repeat your caliper adjustments to get rid of the rubbing.
Your mechanic "let some fluid out" which is probably on the right track. If you're still rubbing make sure you get a good bleed where the tech presses the pistons back into position with the system open. Some brakes (looking at you, Avid) may need several bleed attempts to clear all the nooks.
Have you made sure the issues like tight and properly placed QR levers, tight rotors, and tight caliper adaptors are all taken care of?
Failing that, some brake and bike combinations will rub a little. No matter what I do to my bike I can't get rid of brake rub when the rear brake gets overly warm. I actually know that it's because I need to face my rear caliper adaptor mounts but I haven't deemed it dire enough to beg my old shop to let me use their very expensive tool to do so.

I didn't notice anyone saying that you "needed" BB7s. You asked what brakes to replace yours with and the reasonable response for a budget is BB7. In fact, it's the only reasonable response for a cable actuated disc brake because the others are terrible and that one is very good. With the ability to perform more adjustments comes the _need_ to perform more adjustments. Where hydraulic brakes automatically adjust for pad wear that's your job with cable brakes. Not a huge deal but it means you better be comfortable with adjusting and knowing how any why to adjust your brakes; which of course brings me back to my original point.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just want to point out, Promax is the same brand that is used on a couple of the wal-mart and Target bikes. I googled Promax hydraulics, and the Decipher model appears to have decent design and were actually used on some Gary Fishers. However, they're still an intro level brake set that will need replaced in time. If they have under 500 miles of light trail/gravel type use, they should still be ok to do all the stuff listed. Heavy trail use will probably bring it down to ~100-200 miles before they start acting wierd. Once they start acting wierd (pads move inside caliper, caliper is warped, leaking seals), have to do a cost comparison. If the LBS is going to charge over $30 to do any of the brake bleeding/service listed above, it's worth it to look at new brakes.

I have to agree with an earlier post, pictures really are worth a thousand words.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I see very nice read here.

Ok I will have the shop look at it, I will be off thursday and friday so will try to get my brother to carry the bike with his pickup.

BTW when I say the brakes lock up in the sun I mean the back brake pads rub very hard against the rotors if left in the sun for 2 hours etc.

But I shall carry it back first since I have 5 months warranty on the bike.


----------



## time229er (Oct 30, 2013)

*yep, M615...*



moefosho said:


> Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles
> 
> Best brakes for the money. BB7s are great too.
> NEW! AVID BB7 Brakeset w/ levers + rotors - Pinkbike


 OE on my '14 Nail Trail...scary good :yesnod:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Can you all check and tell me if my rims can hold my 260 pound weight?
Fuji Bikes | MOUNTAIN | SPORT - HARDTAIL | NEVADA 29 1.6

That's my bike is the rims of decent quality?

Also is it possible for bb7 to rub?

And how hard is it to setup?

Thinking of buying 1 set for the front alone. And maybe buy the other one later on.

BTW can my rims take v brakes? How do I know?

Drilling holes on the fork seems like a possibility to install v brakes.

My bike shop is illiterate and tell me that nothing is wrong with my brakes rubbing and that its better for me because I will lose more fat this way since its so hard to pedal.

I am at a loss, BB7 was my only hope now the experts on this forum has advised me that bb7 isn't the solution and the problem is with my cheap rim flexing and poor setup.

All this headache should not be a concern for a bicycle. My friend warned me about going disk brakes and that I should have gone rim brakes but I didn't listen I said disk brakes look so cool.

All I ever wanted was to ride my bike to work and to the swimming pool. I am desperately trying to sell it at a loss but no one wants to buy it locally here.

I was so close to buying at least 1 bb7 set and now I am heading the issue isn't the brake. This brake was rubbing from day 1.

The Fuji Nevada 1.5 had Hayes MX 5 and it never rubs this was when I was in the store and I tried it out.

But didn't have the extra $120 US for it.

My original plan was a hybrid road bike Fuji absolute 1.4

But they didn't have my size and I made this regrettable decision. The shop claims I am the only person with issues with this model of bike.

But I bet they say the same to every customer with issues.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I am thinking to screw it and just listen yo earlier advice and jump out the money for bb7 at least 1 so I will know if this cheapo promax decipher is the problem.

My local shop also does not know how to bleed hydro's. 

I can align it pretty well to the point where there is a gap and can be seen with a flash light from the other end but this garbage can never stay aligned I just need .5 mm Clarence


----------



## invictarocks (Sep 6, 2012)

If something is 'changing' with the heat making the brake lockup or drag bad, it's got to be the fluid/air/moisture in the brake line expanding. Have the shop flush and bleed with the right fluid for your brake.

Mechanical BB7's would be easier for you in the long run.

If you are riding slow and flat terrain, I'd put the "good" brake in the rear. (Remember the coaster brakes boys?)

Good luck!


----------



## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

> the problem is with my cheap rim flexing


A cheap rim that flexes won't affect a disc brake or disc brake rotor.



> Also is it possible for bb7 to rub?


Yes, all brakes can rub if they aren't setup properly.

A disc rotor also needs to be true, a measurement of 0.5mm isn't much to look at but it can affect how a brake works if a rotor is out of true by that amount.

When tightening the bolts that attach a caliper, you need to do it with small amounts at a time and you need to go from one bolt to the other and back again continually until the bolts are torqued to the correct amount.

Are you using a torque wrench when tightening the bolts ?


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Yeah that's what I am saying. Its not my weight because it is rubbing from day 1. But I knew nothing and the store said the rub is normal and it will break in soon. This never happened and they realized they had to adjust it.

The other day rain was falling and water went into the resivour where the lever is and it was bubbling slightly. There is a hole on top of the resivour where the lever is.

Man now I see why mechanical are the best. None of this bleeding crap.

I am going with the bb7 for the rear. Later on if this problem is fixed permanently I will buy a set for the front.

My LBS is a bad shop and they are clueless on what to do their mechanics are dudes listening to rap music all day with earphones in their ears. They are lazy and useless.


----------



## Zerort (Jan 21, 2013)

This guy is such a troll. And you all fall for it.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

The Understater said:


> John before you spend any more money, can you post a couple of close up photos or video of your brake calipers and mounts? There really shouldn't be any reason for the calipers to come out of alignment if they are set up correctly. If they are staying put, then it is possible that your wheels are moving in the dropouts, and it is the wheels causing the rubbing.


 Exactly.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

john5220 said:


> ok might be worth it to go back to the shop and let them bleed them.
> 
> I supposed the people who said the brakes are terribad brands and I needed BB7 were wrong?
> 
> I say this thread has gotten even more interesting.


Question is, is your bike shop reliable? have they provided at least some education about securing your wheels etc? I suggested the BB7s because I think their is a strong possibility that your stock brakes will never be satisfactory.Try and exhaust all your options with the bike shop before you spend any money? does the bike work ok after a tune up? for how long? what are they telling you?


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

Going back to your previous post, it seems like your shop is horrible.Any other shops in town? what a shame you are stuck with a bad shop that is obligated to do free maintenance for a year? if you decide to do your own installation and maintenance I am worried that you may become very frustrated.With some patience and online research you can maintain your bike.Are you willing to do that? your bike frame will not work with V-brakes.....no tabs on the frame.


----------



## Shutter Jim (Feb 2, 2011)

Zerort said:


> This guy is such a troll. And you all fall for it.


Nailed it!


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

Posting this wheelset just to let you know how much a decent heavy duty 29' wheelset cost.This wheel would be excellent for a big guy like you however there is no way you can afford this type of component..right? seems like buying the BB7 is the way to go IF they are installed and broken in properly.If you still have problems the next concern would be the quality of your current wheels (Vera Terra brand, WTF?).Very frustrating that your bike is possibly not a good match for your expectations.I am building up a hardtail mountain bike, bought the frame and components online,doing all my own wrenching and the bike is still costing me around $1900.00:eekster: you will see much discussion about the minimum cost of an entry level bike, that seems to be around $1400.00 for a hardtail mountain bike.Factor in that you need more robust components and the cost is quite a hindrance.Hang in there and methodically try to solve your problem? your stuck with the bike eh?Azonic Outlaw 29" Wheelset > Components > Wheel Goods > Mountain Bike Wheels | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

Shutter Jim said:


> Nailed it!


the guy seems sincere.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

IC2 said:


> Going back to your previous post, it seems like your shop is horrible.Any other shops in town? what a shame you are stuck with a bad shop that is obligated to do free maintenance for a year? if you decide to do your own installation and maintenance I am worried that you may become very frustrated.With some patience and online research you can maintain your bike.Are you willing to do that?


Hi friend

Yeah the lbs is really bad they never fix it proper and claim that's how its supposed to be. Always saying crap like it will work eventually and keep riding it so.

A bunch of rap music punks they hire as mechanics because they wanna pay cheap so they take what they get and they undersell other shops now I see why the other shops charged more.

There are other shops you know but this particular one I bought my Fuji from and I expect them to honor the warranty.

They do fix it and the brake work for a couple weeks and eventually go bad.

Will posting pics help?

I have a nexus 4 that takes good pics in the sun.

I will also record a video and post it up tomorrow I am at work right now.

Yeah I am stuck with this bike and can't get it sold for much. I paid $4000 TT for it 1 US = $6.50 TT

I tried to get $3500 for it but no one is biting and I rather buy bb7 kit set for $1000 TT rather than sell it for $3000

I will post pics in the morning.


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

Cheap brakes tend to need more maintenance or poorly designed.It is difficult to troubleshoot your bike online even with pics.Your brakes are bubbling at the reservoir?yikes! that could mean a poorly sealed reservoir cover.Ask them to replace the brakes under warranty with BB7s.I know some guys that force the issue with a bike shop and had the brakes replaced for free.If your bike shop refuses it may be time to say goodbye.Have a reputable bike shop evaluate your bike? if that is affordable for you.The frame looks solid:thumbsup:,goodnight.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

cobba said:


> A cheap rim that flexes won't affect a disc brake or disc brake rotor.
> 
> Are you using a torque wrench when tightening the bolts ?


SO why then does the experts on this thread say the cheap rim and my heavy fat body causes the rim to flex and hence causes the brake to rub?

And no never heard of a torque wrench, I use a Allen key to tighten the caliper bolts.

The rear seems to work flawless in the night time I just came from work 3 Am riding in 22 degrees Celsius cool temp outside. All the way the back wheel would spin perfect freely for years and years it refuses to stop.

Anytime the sun hits the bike it will freeze the wheel. So I am going to assume this needs bleeding and will try back my LBS one more time and see if they will bleed it.
If all that fails I will go with the BB7 and read properly how to set it up.

And I love my frame its perfect and a beauty.

this is my bike the pics I took 1 month ago

https://oi41.tinypic.com/1zf7vk3.jpg

https://oi43.tinypic.com/2rddc80.jpg

and a video from last month also

Fuji Nevada 1.6 29er Mountain Bike in the Caribbean - YouTube


----------



## Shutter Jim (Feb 2, 2011)

john5220 said:


> SO why then does the experts on this thread say the cheap rim and my heavy fat body causes the rim to flex and hence causes the brake to rub?


Once again. Listen carefully.

1.) It is possible that your wheel has lateral flex because the quick-release axle is not sufficient to deal with your girth (how tall are you, anyway?). That is a much different scenario than your apparently mistaken interpretation that your weight is causing the rim itself to flex.

2.) OR that your quick release on the front is not sufficiently locked down (make sure that the wheel is properly centered in the dropouts, that the QR handle points toward the ground and does not meet any interference from the fork, and is properly locked--being tight enough that when fully closed, it should leave a pretty good indentation in your hand when you close it).

3.) OR that your hub is not properly adjusted and is providing for lateral flex of the wheel OR that your QR is not properly tightened, which would allow for flex in a properly adjusted hub.

4.) OR if you really are seeing a marked difference due to temperature variation, it could mean that there is an overpressure scenario going on in your hydraulic fluid; the shop could remove a tiny bit of the fluid (and I'm talking only a few drops here) to alleviate internal pressure to the system.

I find it hard to believe that the bike shop isn't able to troubleshoot this issue. However, there seems to be much chaotic speculation going on and all kinds of attempts to randomly change one variable or another. Unless there is a logical, systematic approach to troubleshooting this issue, it won't be solved. Since I do not have the bike in front of me, and since there are apparently lots of issues being "lost in translation," I cannot know the exact cause of the problem.

If I had the bike in front of me, I'm pretty sure I could troubleshoot the issue; there is nothing remarkable about me, and I'm pretty sure if someone approached this issue calmly, they could troubleshoot it as well; your bike shop could do it. Maybe the key is to bring it back to them and "start from scratch" with a full explanation of what is going on.

ProMax brakes are cheap and awful, but they can be successfully set up and operated.

Good luck.

Over and out.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

john5220 said:


> Can you all check and tell me if my rims can hold my 260 pound weight?
> Fuji Bikes | MOUNTAIN | SPORT - HARDTAIL | NEVADA 29 1.6
> That's my bike is the rims of decent quality?


They will for a while. Eventually you'll need to replace them though so save a bit of your budget for that day.



john5220 said:


> Also is it possible for bb7 to rub?


Absolutely, they need to be adjusted like any other brake. I actually have more issues with slight rubbing on my BB7s than my other brakes due to the fixed pad needing to be pretty close to get a good brake feel. Nothing that's a show stopper, but worth mentioning.



john5220 said:


> And how hard is it to setup?


There are countless great videos on youtube about this very topic.



john5220 said:


> Thinking of buying 1 set for the front alone. And maybe buy the other one later on.


Pretty good plan, the front is the one to choose if you're going to choose one.



john5220 said:


> BTW can my rims take v brakes? How do I know?


No. You would know by if the rims had a machined brake track on them. Those usually look silver and have flat vertical walls.



john5220 said:


> Drilling holes on the fork seems like a possibility to install v brakes.


OH GOD NO! Don't even consider this.



john5220 said:


> My bike shop is illiterate and tell me that nothing is wrong with my brakes rubbing and that its better for me because I will lose more fat this way since its so hard to pedal.
> 
> I am at a loss, BB7 was my only hope now the experts on this forum has advised me that bb7 isn't the solution and the problem is with my cheap rim flexing and poor setup.


You're mixing up terms here and you still don't seem to understand your problem. First, rim flex doesn't matter; rims are the part that the spokes attach to and hold the rubber part. You're actually concerned with frame/fork flex which is why people(me) keep telling you to check your QR.

Your problem is that you don't know what your problem is. You haven't figured out yet if it's a bleed or alignment or if your frame is flexing. You can't fix a problem you don't know the cause of.



john5220 said:


> All this headache should not be a concern for a bicycle. My friend warned me about going disk brakes and that I should have gone rim brakes but I didn't listen I said disk brakes look so cool.
> 
> All I ever wanted was to ride my bike to work and to the swimming pool. I am desperately trying to sell it at a loss but no one wants to buy it locally here.
> 
> ...


Ok, take a deep breath and relax. Your bike isn't hopeless but it sounds like your bike shop may be. Are there any other bike shops in your area? Tell them that you bought it somewhere else and you regret it because their service department refuses to help you. Now, you're going to have to pay for the work but you're more likely to get it to work. Make sure you ride the bike when you pick it up from wherever you take it and make sure you're happy before you pay.

The BB7s are a better brake, no question; but you still don't understand what your issue is.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Have you thought to look here? This thread might just be your cup of tea.

Clydesdales/Tall Riders


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks zebrahum

I asked my brother to drop me to the bike shop as soon as he gets time. I did as you guys suggested and told them their service is disgusting and that I will be contacting FUJI about their level of service they are giving since they claim to be an authorized distributor for Fuji Bikes for the Caribbean, They told me they do have an experienced mechanic named Jerrad. I never saw this guy before.

I only learned about this guy yesterday because he is usually at anyone of their 3 branches. So all I need to do is confirm when he is there, I spoke with him over the phone and he has advised me to only bring in the bike when he is there.

So I am going to hold off on the BB7 until he can have a look at this bike and figure out the problem. So I will keep you guys posted as soon as I get it into the shop one last time with this guy.

Some friends has also told me about other bike shops I didn't know off.

These guys here are authorized Specialized Distributors for the Caribbean

https://www.facebook.com/Mikes.BikesTT

so if all else fails I can also check them.


----------



## Shakester (Jun 26, 2012)

Disc brakes can get pretty finicky, especially when it comes to rubbing. Added flex on a wheelset (hub) can cause the a wheel to bow a little which would cause rubbing.  If you adjust your calipers then take off your wheel, but don't put it on with the same amount of torque that you had when you adjusted it, it will rub. If you look at the amount of space between the pad and the rotor, there isn't much room to wiggle.

I've always had great luck with the people at Mikes Bikes around here. Hopefully, they can iron out your problem.


----------



## crackerdog (Dec 18, 2011)

I find it hard to believe it is weight. I have BB7 on my Xtracycle with a cheap $100 wheel and I've carried 200lbs of load plus my 210lbs and it didn't affect my disc brakes at all. My xtracycle is an old steel specialized 'street stomper' so not some fancy great bike. I'm sure you can fix the problem once you can find someone to diagnose it correctly. Hang in there.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Dude. Fly me down there, and I'll fix your brakes for you.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Dude. Fly me down there, and I'll fix your brakes for you.


I will also make this offer.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

*Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rub...*

Wait a sec...do you leave the bike locked up outside all the time?

That could be a big source of your problems. Leaving bikes locked up outside for long periods of time introduces lots of extra maintenance especially when there are extreme conditions (rain, snow, heat, cold, etc). It is very hard on soft rubber parts and a little less hard on hard plastic parts. That could be why your brakes lock up when they are hot and might be why you have any problems with them at all.

Get a bleed and find someplace sheltered for the bike for storage. At least someplace out of the rain and direct sun. A shed, patio, garage, or even inside the house. Something.


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

Lots of great advice in this thread. 

XT M785 disc brakes are found on Google for $89 per wheel. 

Just a suggestion.


----------



## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

+1 on the m785... such great brakes..i put them on and havnt thought about my brakes since..


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

Additionally I cannot overstate the fantastic performance (heat management and no squealing) of Ice Tech rotors, I'm running RT-86 which is Shimano's best offering for non-centerlock hubs. Since they are a 2-piece rotor, they don't resonate like single-piece designs. The center aluminum spider is much more laterally stiff than 1-piece rotors I am aware of, thus damping most vibration in comparison. My previous Formula 1-piece rotors literally rung like a bell when tapped, as they had essentially no lateral stabilization allowing them to squeal like a choking goose when riding. Also the Ice Tech rotor braking surface is a sandwich of hard steel laminated on top of an aluminum core. This helps draw heat away from the braking surface. Additionally the cladded material distribution disrupts longer oscillatory waveforms into shorter segments, reducing the power of resonant pressure waves within the outer disk.

Sorry to essentially write an ad for recent Shimano brakes, but ditching my Formulas was literally the best upgrade I've ever made in terms of riding satisfaction and I don't often see this sentiment expressed on these forums. I now think about my brakes less than tires, which is unbelievable to me considering I used to spend more time on my Formula brakes than the rest of my bike combined (mostly due to squeal).

Interesting technical overview:
» Shimano ? Ice Technologies XTR Benchmark Test - Sick Lines ? mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource


----------



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Had to chime in here. I'm a big rider, 270lbs a d experienced ops troubles with both cheap stock brakes and bb7s. Problem one was rotors, I tried to go light weight rotors, bad idea, warped all the time. G2 rotors that came with my bb7s needed to be tried them worked great.

Second thing is, ur axle qrs. At our weight they need to be a bit tighter to keep things from flexing too much. I occasionally get rub now on trails when putting alot of lateral force on things but its minimal rub. When they think ur qr skewer is set tighten it another 1/4-1/2 turn then lock it.

If u have money being ur bike is entry lvl, I advise same thing in doing, Shimano brakes. M596 I have tried on riding someone else bike and are amazing compared to my bb7s. No noise, solid and smooth. Shimano hydraulics are awesome, I'm going either slx or xt. Depends on if I can get them with white hoses or have to buy white hoses.

Sent from my Nokia Stupidphone using Tapatalk


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

*Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rubs*

also OP mentions the calipers don't stay aligned. one solution to this is to roughen the caliper stock where it interfaces the post using coarse sandpaper or a file to create a knurled pattern. the added roughness, even if fairly slight, can be sufficient to prevent sliding. replacing titanium post mount bolts with steel can also help.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Have one other issue the back run the spokes keep coming lose. The wheel then waggles and yeah I trued it but the right side spokes are very tight but still pulls to the left and I am forced to bring the left spokes relatively lose to keep it straight.

U guys think this rim is just cheap junk or the shop mechanics are just lazy and stupid?


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

BTW those shimano xtr has easy pad adjusters on both sides like the bb7?

Because I found these on amazon for $25 and they can be adjusted on both sides for clearance.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

:


john5220 said:


> Have one other issue the back run the spokes keep coming lose. The wheel then waggles and yeah I trued it but the right side spokes are very tight but still pulls to the left and I am forced to bring the left spokes relatively lose to keep it straight.


:madman: Nah, man. Don't go messing with your wheels unless you know what you're doing, especially not on a new bike.


----------



## abelfonseca (Dec 26, 2011)

I think a good bleed and a set of shimano internal cam quick release skewers will solve your issues. I had a similar problem, it turned out to be the flimsly stock skewer. Every time I braked hard, the front wheel would move in the dropout and the brake would start to rub. To check, open the skewer with the bike upright. I you hear and/or feel the wheel shifting into place in the dropout when you do thi,s then your are having the same problem I was.

Good Luck

Amazon.com: Shimano HB-RM50 Front Quick Release (Silver): Sports & Outdoors


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Yeah trying to get my brother to drop the bike for me in the shop because he has a hilux.

It needs a good bleed.

Doubt its the qr because the back works fine apart from the bleed issue where it locks up When u first ride it after it is parked up for over night.

But for the wheels why is the spokes coming lose when I go down in pot holes?


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'm starting to think, you're bike is haunted.

Spokes can come loose, but really shouldn't. Have the LBS true the wheel and tension the spokes, because this is something they should have done before it left the shop. If they didn't do it then, it should have been done during you're first tune-up (some LBS will include a 1 or 2 month tune-up in the original cost to give you a chance to ride it a bit and check what needs adjusted)


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

OK I will have them true the wheel and let them know at least 6 spokes come very lose every 2 weeks especially when I go down in pot holes.

At least we all understand now never to buy a Fuji in future.

I should have gone cannondale a real bike made in good ole USA instead of this Fuji trash made in China.

I wish the Germans still built bikes and stuff. You can imagine how awesome a bike would be if made in Germany

I heard even in the 18th century, Chinese swords were garbage and back then people used to say if you want something good get a good Japanese sword.


----------



## abelfonseca (Dec 26, 2011)

john5220 said:


> Doubt its the qr because the back works fine apart from the bleed issue where it locks up When u first ride it after it is parked up for over night.


Exactly! Brake forces are way stronger in your front wheel thant the back. The front QR has to withstand much greater forces than the back QR.

Cheers


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Ow ok I see.

Ok will check it out to see if its the qr when I reach home

U may be onto something.


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

c-dale's are made in taiwan and vietnam. it's not the bike, it sounds like it's the shop. as mentioned before, you should have a few "free" tunes from when you originally purchased it. i know i had a year of tunes and 3 flat fixes that were included when i bought my bike. pot holes are definitely evil for rims, as with all square edged hits, do try to avoid 'em or practice your bunny hopping over them. i hope you can get this resolved soon so you can get out there and enjoy your new found hobby a lil bit more.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Wow didn't know cannondales are now made in taiwan wtf.

Yeah I will avoid potholes of bunny hop over them next time. Will try to get the bike in the shop Wednesday or Thursday my brother should have time by then.

And yeah the shop is pretty bad but holding on with them so they can honor the warranty for now I got 6 months warranty


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

*Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rub...*

Most manufacturer warranties are for at least 3-4 years. You should look into that for your bike. Still, if a shop is bad, they can cost you money in the long run.

You have not answered whether you lock the bike up outside all the time.


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

watts888 said:


> I'm starting to think, you're bike is haunted.
> 
> Spokes can come loose, but really shouldn't. Have the LBS true the wheel and tension the spokes, because this is something they should have done before it left the shop. If they didn't do it then, it should have been done during you're first tune-up (some LBS will include a 1 or 2 month tune-up in the original cost to give you a chance to ride it a bit and check what needs adjusted)


+1 you're right.



john5220 said:


> BTW those shimano xtr has easy pad adjusters on both sides like the bb7?


What is this 'adjustment' you speak of  That knob provides for tolerancing within the design (a feature!). I have never needed one with SLX/XT/XTR calipers.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

we have a very serious problem

my back rim is bent beyond repair. Its extremely out of true 10 spokes came lose today.

And when I tighten it back it still wobbles horribly bad. The spoke tension has gotten to the stage where even if one side becomes so lose to the point where it it falls out it will still pull to the that very same side. And the opposite side where you would tighten it to bring it back to true is rock solid it can barely tighten anymore I think anymore and it would pop a spoke or something

No amount of tightening can fix this. Its because its a 29 inch rim its obviously weaker.

wtf LOL I wonder if local bike shops have devices to straighten back bent rims?

If not u guys think I can just ride it bent as is? what would happen?


----------



## ca_rider (Feb 3, 2008)

If this is a new bike that sounds like a warranty issue irrespective of the fact it's a 29.

If you want to understand wheels, this is the place to start:
The Bicycle Wheel 3rd Edition: Jobst Brandt: 9780960723669: Amazon.com: Books


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

*Disk Brakes are the worst thing ever invented. My Promax Hydraulic always rub...*

You are a big guy who will be hard on parts. Plowing into potholes will destroy rims regardless of how heavy you are, especially if you do it often or your tire pressure is too low. It won't matter if the rims are 29" or 20"


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Why is this thread still going?

Heavy riders need heavy duty parts. Cheaper bikes are especially prone to sacrificing durability to make them affordable. Ok for riders *half your weight. Not so much for you.

Fuji makes a decent bike. But 600 bucks doesn't get you far in any brand. To put it in perspective, the wheels that should hold up to your abuse will cost at least 250 bucks (Slx hubs and flow rims)

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Biking is not your thing.


----------



## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

Issues like this is the reason I no longer buy a Wal-Mart bike for myself.

Here's an example.
Can anybody tell me what's wrong in this picture?


----------



## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

Here's a better shot.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Other than the fact it's a walmart bike. Wheel on backwards, but at this point, that's the least of the rider's worries.


----------



## abelfonseca (Dec 26, 2011)

The wheel and tires arent setup tubeless. Thats whats wrong.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

abelfonseca said:


> The wheel and tires arent setup tubeless. Thats whats wrong.


----------



## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Sweet, it's a 1x6 drivetrain. Awesome on those steep climbs. And it's got a shox suspension. I bet it's great on jumps.


----------



## mattnmtns (Sep 16, 2010)

I vote John5220 for fisherman of the year.


----------



## lubes17319 (Dec 19, 2005)

Is that one of those fancy downhill bikes I've heard about?


----------



## mtb_beginner (Jul 20, 2013)

watts888 said:


> Other than the fact it's a walmart bike. Wheel on backwards, but at this point, that's the least of the rider's worries.


Good catch! I'll probably post this pic in a new thread and test my fellow beginners.


----------



## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

mtb_beginner said:


> Here's an example.
> Can anybody tell me what's wrong in this picture?


Someone used the quick release as a wing nut on the red bike.


----------



## sandiego (Sep 18, 2013)

mtb_beginner said:


> Here's a better shot.


Holy cable routing! :shocked:

And shouldn't the front brake be on the left side of the bars (left if riding the bike)?

Edit-Nevermind... looks like they actually got that right. :skep:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

good day everyone

would like to let you guys know I finally got my bro to transport my bike back my bike to Bike Inn today for service thats my LBS. 

I met a guy name Jerrad, he has been fixing bikes for 18 years and apparently he is the go to guy when you need something done professionally.

When I told him how the other retards setup my bike and caused the brakes to rub and said thats ok and ride it so and how they released fluid to adjust it he just said they had no idea what they were doing and that they were new mechanics just recently hired.

He said he will make sure this problem does not happen again and he will true the wheels for me cause he uses tension gauge etc and all those professional stuff. He said not to worry because the rim isn't badly bent or anything like that and it can be fixed easily so not to worry about anything.

What had happened is after reading up about these things on forums and people giving me advice that the bike shop is retarded, I investigated what other mechanics they would have and they told me about him and infact the woman advised me to only bring the bike when Jerrad was there as he is a pro at this. 

After speaking with him and having him give me advice about not contaminating the brake pads with oil from my fingers etc I realized then and there this guy is the person I have been dreaming off. 

And he isn't like those other retards they had before who only had headphones in their ears he was very professional and listened and gave me good advice on some basic stuff. He also told me about the lateral flex etc, however he said thats not what is causing my problem.

He said it was setup badly and I Was given bad customer service from the start.

So lets see what happens I will collect it tomorrow, I am so glad I carried it back to rectify the problem first before ordering the avids. He told me cheap or expensive Hydro brakes should not have this problem that I am having and everything is indeed a poor setup from the start.

he also told me both brake rotors are warped and the brakes needs a good bleed. 

Will keep you guys posted.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

mtb_beginner said:


> Here's a better shot.


Reflector is crooked


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

john5220 said:


> retards retarded retards


You knew less than them so what does that make you?


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

jeffw-13 said:


> You knew less than them so what does that make you?


That's a lie

I knew hydro are self adjusting and it don't just break in and become lose with a little riding

you are not in any position to judge me because I spent my life savings on this bike and I was lied to and given a set of run around on something that should have been properly fixed from day one.

thankfully for this guy he is hard working and knows his Job and actually takes pride in what he is doing so hopefully this fixes everything because he did say I wont have any problems for along time.


----------



## musikron (Jan 16, 2013)

smilinsteve said:


> Guitars are the worst thing ever invented. Every time I try to play one, nothing comes out except this horrible noise. Stupid guitars.


Thems fighting words! (I'm the Guitar Doctor, whithout guitars I'd be broke and dead.)


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

the pros say hydros are self adjusting so when the brake pads get worn it self adjusts hence why you do not need to adjust it everytime the pads get warn.

Guess thats a lie.

My bad.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

wooo hoo got back my bike today.

They did a good Job it seems, my rim that I taught was bent and could not fix they fixed it perfect and both spokes are tight and nice.

Brakes work excellent, back has ever so slightly rub but nothing you can notice. Its 99% better than it was before so I can live with a 1% imperfection. 

However for whatever reason he said he did not do a force bleed. He said it was not needed, I don't know what he did then but it works near perfect now and didnt lock up in the sun or anything.

Also it was done for free he even cleaned and polished the bike for me looks brand new once more.

HE said after the 6 month warranty the price for such a service with trueing the wheel and aligning the derailleurs and brakes is a total cost of $85 TT which is actually 

$13 US

would u guys say $13 US is a fair price for a full tune up on a bike every 6 months?


----------



## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

john5220 said:


> would u guys say $13 US is a fair price for a full tune up on a bike every 6 months?


Absolutely not. You should just get rid of the bike and take up running.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Glad everything worked out for you. Can't wait for the next update.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

jtmartino said:


> Absolutely not. You should just get rid of the bike and take up running.


Smarmy much? It's not uncommon for shops to charge $20+ (US) per brake. Ideally, the OP would learn at least the basics of brake maintenance so he wouldn't have to take the bike in all the time...


----------



## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

There are a few books out there on maintenance. Buy once and save the money. But its not a bad price.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

yeah it's a good price, but if you were to maintain it you will learn a lot about your bike. just think when the most inopportune time comes on the trail, & you'll have that knowledge.


----------



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Just make sure Jarred is gonna be there.


----------



## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Smarmy much? It's not uncommon for shops to charge $20+ (US) per brake. Ideally, the OP would learn at least the basics of brake maintenance so he wouldn't have to take the bike in all the time...


Damn man, you couldn't see sarcasm if it punched you in the face.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

jtmartino said:


> Damn man, you couldn't see sarcasm if it punched you in the face.


Whatever, man. Not sure you caught the irony.


----------



## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

That's it, I'm movin' to a developing nation, just so I can get my bike serviced....

I've gotta say, I think I'd hand over $13 even if it wasn't asked for out of sheer embarrassment at the low cost - the guy has to eat ( as clearly he isn't paying rent).

Awesome thread , lol


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

jtmartino said:


> Damn man, you couldn't see sarcasm if it punched you in the face.


Sarcasm does not translate well through text. Yours is no exception.


----------



## pharmaboy (Nov 11, 2005)

jtmartino said:


> Damn man, you couldn't see sarcasm if it punched you in the face.


Um, are you guys seriously not getting sarcasm from that post . LOL - if English is your second language, then fair enough - other than that, we surely don't need < sarcasm > tags!

Jt, I thought it was funny anyway....


----------



## jtmartino (Jul 31, 2008)

pharmaboy said:


> Um, are you guys seriously not getting sarcasm from that post . LOL - if English is your second language, then fair enough - other than that, we surely don't need < sarcasm > tags!
> 
> Jt, I thought it was funny anyway....


Thanks man, some dense dudes here.

Seriously though, $13 for a tuneup is hilariously cheap. Try $60 at most shops around here...


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

pharmaboy said:


> Um, are you guys seriously not getting sarcasm from that post . LOL - if English is your second language, then fair enough - other than that, we surely don't need < sarcasm > tags!
> 
> Jt, I thought it was funny anyway....


I got the sarcasm loud and clear, too.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

OK. Do we need to dig out the dictionary? LOL.

_*Smarmy* (adj.): excessively or unctuously flattering, ingratiating, servile, etc._

Obviously, jtmartino's was not being flattering, ingratiating, or servile. Here's another definition for you:

_*Irony* (noun): the use of words to convey a meaning that is the opposite of its literal meaning._

Did I miss the sarcasm, or did jtmartino miss the irony? Maybe I shouldn't confuse the issue by joking around and trying to be helpful in the same post. Whatever the case, this whole discussion is a waste of time. :thumbsup:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Lol yeah even at $3 an hour us that I work for $13 is super cheap to service a bike with full tune up including washing and polish with full degreasing and reoiling etc its not just derailleur adjustment they really do fix everything out nicely and retention spoke etc


----------



## IC2 (Aug 29, 2013)

john5220 said:


> Lol yeah even at $3 an hour us that I work for $13 is super cheap to service a bike with full tune up including washing and polish with full degreasing and reoiling etc its not just derailleur adjustment they really do fix everything out nicely and retention spoke etc


Nice how it all worked out it seems that the bike shop needed a bit of pressure to get them to do their job:skep:I hope we all were of some influence in solving your problem.I guess you like mountain bikes now? maybe eventually move on to a better components when possible......take care Bro


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Hey yeah I almost forgot about this thread.

Since I last got them to do it proper nothing ever went out of alignment again...
Amazing how well it works now

Ow and I got my results from school and I passed my advanced diploma in computing. So I can go onto a final year degree now and one day move out of this airline and make more than this $3 an hour.

I think things worked out so well for me. Coming back to this thread is like a distant nightmare for me in some ways.

I so peaceful now its like this thread is just a ghost town where bad memories lived at one time.


----------



## bikeclub2014 (Feb 14, 2014)

Hi John.

Advantage of disc brakes over v-brakes: stopping power is applied at the center of rotation + more stopping power. Ditch the hydraulic brakes which can all be a little finicky and go with some reliable linear pull mechanical disc brakes like avid bb7. They have increment dials on both sides of the calipers to fine tune the pad adjustment. The rotors must be " tweaked " as well or trued.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

guys I sold the bike. Someone offered me 88% of what I paid for it and I let it go.

This was just in case it gives the same issues in future and then I really wanted a roadbike or hybrid instead for easier pedaling and less rolling resistance. So it was a great opportunity to get rid of the bike.

Now I am looking into a roadbike or a hybrid roadie.


----------



## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

john5220 said:


> ...
> 
> Now I am looking into a roadbike or a hybrid roadie.


Why?

Let me be the a-hole who puts it out there: what are you actually looking for? I'm not sure you didn't make a bad decision. i hope you didn't, but I'm thinking you did.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I had the bike up for sale for some time now. I decided on keeping it after Jerrad fixed it for me.

trinituner.com ? FS: Almost NEW Fuji Nevada 1.6 29er Mountain Bike $3500 SOLD

here this is the ad I had up for the bike on our local website that we sell stuff.

I forgot to remove the ad and then some guy called asking if I had a Fuji bike for sale. I said um yeah but I am not selling it again I am thinking of keeping it, he told me to think about it over night and get back to him. He said he had $3500 cash in hand for the bike. I paid $4000 for it and it still had 4 months warranty remaining on it from the LBS.

My brother encouraged me to sell it. "Partly because he was irritated having to carry it back 3 times in a row to have it fixed" is what I gather. So I knew in the back of my mind his intentions were not for me but for him.

So when the guy said he was leaving to come collect the bike I said you know what lets do this another day. "I changed my mind on selling it" he said WTF are you kidding me? hell no I am coming NOW for it I already paid a guy for transport etc etc etc.

I said ok come for it. Was sort of hurtful selling him the bike, felt like it was a really bad decision but I kept thinking what if this problem happens again in future and it goes out of warranty then I would have to pay granted though it would be $10 USD which is nothing.

But I will be honest its easier to pedal my 26 inch crappy Chinese rusty bike. Someone told me its inertia, and the overall weight and knobby tires that contributes to all of this. One person said ignorance is bliss and that it won't matter since I never had a roadie I won't know what I am missing.

right NOW I feel GREAT. I am being honest because I can now again once more search for a new bike but this time with much more experience than before.

Guys I have no trails to go on, I ride on the asphalt. I wanna go longer distances now and I am of the belief a roadie/hybrid will get me there easier. Also lifting the mtb up the stairs was quite a task. A roadie/hybrid would be so much lighter.

Infact now IF and I really do mean IF I buy a disk brake bike ever again, I could always go with this cutie running them legendary BB7

Anyroad 1 (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

But right now my budget limits me to around $630 USD which is about $4000 TT. the giant is atleast double that price.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I will also say this. Another major factor was the bike was too small for me. It was 17 inch and all calculators tell me I need atleast 18 inch minimum.,

At the shop it felt good. But after riding it for 30 minutes I can feel how small it was, it also hurt my knee a little you could feel the lack of 1 inch if all I could do was gain 1 inch I would be happy. even moving the saddle 3/4 inch didn't do it for me I then realized I needed like 18.5 inch frame.

It truly was a good opportunity to get rid of the bike if you ask me. The shop didn't do a very good job at fitting me at all. But all this is great experience in buying a new bike now I know what size I need which will be 19 inch on hybrids. 19 would get me there to the sweet spot. 

In contrast the 17 inch hybrids they had were WAAAAAY to small. Felt more like a 15 inch hardtail MTB.


----------



## bikeclub2014 (Feb 14, 2014)

Hi John, 

If you like the way bigger tires ride ( MTB ) but desife a better top speed ( ROAD ) I highly recommend considering a " CROSS " bike. Cyclocross. It is lime a road bike for rough terrain. 26" inch wheels take more of a beating. Maybe a hybrid mountain bike ? What ever you decide, you must always keep on truckin'.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Hey thanks I will check out cyclocross bikes.

They seem to be a little different from Hybrids? because TREK seem to think so. They have a section for FX which is hybrid and cyclocross.


----------



## Amiinderschweiz (May 29, 2017)

LMAO here, Luv'ed the Fred Flintstone jibe hahahah
I got to this forum because I googled Decifer brakes, as crappy as they are, they are a Huge improvement to rubber pads and cables. I know I have a POS bike that only looks like a Mountain Bike, it has crap Suntour shocks, worthless for off road and down hill... and crap brakes, Decifer. I thank all the members for being surly, as life without laughing at oneself is a much too serious life, (spoiler alert, we don't get out alive :-D ) also those that offered a modest priced replacement brakes, thank you.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

It is nice to see you replied to a 3 and a half year old thread for no apparent reason.

FYI I sold that bike with hydraulic brakes years ago and bought the Giant Revel 3 and never had to worry about brakes again since they use old school brake. 

My Giant has served me for what I needed though I had issues due to my weight with spokes breaking but other than that it is a fine bike. Some things feel cheap about it like the crank when it was making a loud knocking noise that has now gone away

I will never buy a bike with hydraulic brakes because I have no use for it.


----------



## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

keep up the dry humor for years to come, it's almost as dry as the fish taco i had last night. then i got extra sauce. keep on keepin' it drenched in sauce


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

Its a 2014 necro thread


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

My Giant Revel 3 was stolen yesterday, it was the bike I bought after making this thread I remember making this thread about the Fuji nevada and the issues I had with the disk brake. Sold it and bought the Giant Revel 3 it was simple linear pull V brake and it was easy to manage myself. The Giant Revel 3 served me faithfully for 3 years though the paint started to crack, the rear hub was just broken and the wheel would wobble the spokes always broke after every 2 months. Could be my weight 260lb and all that caused it, overall the bike served me well.

Last night some low life thief came into my garage downstairs and went off with my precious bike while I was asleep, it was my fault for not locking it down I just got negligent as the bike started to age was dirty and back wheel started giving problems and so I stopped securing it properly.

I have a job so I guess I could always buy a Fuji Absolute

Fuji Bikes | Absolute 2.1

my local bike shop here in Trinidad (Caribbean) sells this line of bike. I am thinking of getting one of these hybrids.


----------



## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

Bummer about the bike, sorry man, Hopefully the rear hub will completely explode while the low life is riding really fast and karma will happen.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

We can only wish for the adage of 'what comes around, goes around'.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

chazpat said:


> Bummer about the bike, sorry man, Hopefully the rear hub will completely explode while the low life is riding really fast and karma will happen.


Thanks man, such is life.

I will buy a better bike and have it in my room next time. For them to get my next bike they are going to have to go through me and a machete.

Luckily I didn't pay to fix the Giant bike, the gears stopped changing and handle bars melted away lots of scratches on the handle from me transporting my Weed Wacker on it yeah I have a small plantation with 160 small coconut trees so I used the bike to maintain the land etc.

There are some bikes on Amazon like the Diamond Back so I might also look into that but I believe the Fuji Absolute 2.1 is a better buy than going through Amazon

One thing to note I do have $500 USD in my Amazon account through gift cards over the years so if I bought a bike on Amazon it would cost maybe $170 USD to ship to the Caribbean. But I will try to get one locally first the fuji looks excellent

https://nwprogear.com/wp-content/up...id-City-Commuter-bike-brand-new-nwprogear.jpg

^ love this one its like $400 USD locally.


----------



## BigHit-Maniac (Apr 13, 2004)

Do yourself a favor and save up some money for a set of Shimano SLX or one-step lower Hydraulic Disc Brakes. Have the shop install, cut the hoses, and bleed them. Then tell me disc brakes suck. 

They're the absolute BEST brakes for your dollar. The ones that came on your bike aren't meant for long term trouble free use. Period.


----------



## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

BigHit-Maniac said:


> Do yourself a favor and save up some money for a set of Shimano SLX or one-step lower Hydraulic Disc Brakes. Have the shop install, cut the hoses, and bleed them. Then tell me disc brakes suck.
> 
> They're the absolute BEST brakes for your dollar. The ones that came on your bike aren't meant for long term trouble free use. Period.


Dude, I don't expect you to read the whole thread but at least read through some of the latest posts, he sold the bike over three years ago!

But I do like my SLXes.


----------



## brakemaster (Sep 2, 2017)

john5220 said:


> Last night some low life thief came into my garage downstairs and went off with my precious bike while I was asleep, it was my fault for not locking it down I just got negligent as the bike started to age was dirty and back wheel started giving problems and so I stopped securing it properly.


That sucks. All I can say is bikes are meant to be stored inside your home not a garage. If you happen to live in a building or place where they have a special purpose so-called "secure" room for storing bicycles DON'T use it. Garages and otherwise "secure" bicycle storage rooms are all hot spots for bicycle theft. Store your bikes inside your bedroom if you have to it's the only way.


----------



## BigHit-Maniac (Apr 13, 2004)

chazpat said:


> Dude, I don't expect you to read the whole thread but at least read through some of the latest posts, he sold the bike over three years ago!
> 
> But I do like my SLXes.


im officially giving up on this forum.


----------



## Kev711 (Jul 31, 2017)

smilinsteve said:


> I guarantee you that disc brakes are not the worst thing ever invented. Guitars are the worst thing ever invented. Every time I try to play one, nothing comes out except this horrible noise. Stupid guitars.


.....


----------



## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

Wow
Some people need to give up on bikes and just be hikers.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Or, just stay home.


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

brakemaster said:


> That sucks. All I can say is bikes are meant to be stored inside your home not a garage. If you happen to live in a building or place where they have a special purpose so-called "secure" room for storing bicycles DON'T use it. Garages and otherwise "secure" bicycle storage rooms are all hot spots for bicycle theft. Store your bikes inside your bedroom if you have to it's the only way.


yes I learned my lesson now next time its in my bed room

btw would you recommend me this bike? I have $600 USD in my amazon account and I will have to pay maybe $170 US from my credit card to the sky box company to ship it to the Caribbean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N459XVX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


----------



## silverface (Jun 30, 2010)

*how to correct your promax brakes*



john5220 said:


> I bought a Fuji nevada 1.6 29er and the brake is horrid.
> 
> Came with Promax Decipher hydraulic brakes and whenever you align it after a week or so it starts to rub again
> 
> ...


you need to put spaces on the brakes this will lift them and the disk wont run so deep in the caliper


----------



## demonlarry (Jun 20, 2011)

watts888 said:


> I'd get new rotors. Assuming the rotors on your bike are Promax (same as the calipers), it's worth it to upgrade.


Sounds like slightly warped rotors...

over torqued at the hub?


----------



## demonlarry (Jun 20, 2011)

chazpat said:


> Dude, I don't expect you to read the whole thread but at least read through some of the latest posts, he sold the bike over three years ago!
> 
> But I do like my SLXes.


:madman::eekster:


----------



## john5220 (Jan 1, 2014)

I sold that bike years ago, bought a Giant Revel 3 and it lasted me 3 years until someone stole it.

Then I bought a 2017 Fuji Nevada 1.9 with mechanical disk brakes and it works perfectly


----------



## mtb_phd (Jun 28, 2017)

I actually had a similar issue with a pair of Sram Guide brakes locking up in the heat. It turns out that a batch of master cylinders were made incorrectly, and that the heat caused the pistons to expand and lock up. These were under warranty, so it's possible that your brakes might qualify for a free replacement as well.


----------



## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

:madman::madman::madman:


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

mtb_phd said:


> I actually had a similar issue with a pair of Sram Guide brakes locking up in the heat. It turns out that a batch of master cylinders were made incorrectly, and that the heat caused the pistons to expand and lock up. These were under warranty, so it's possible that your brakes might qualify for a free replacement as well.


Does no one read anymore? HE SOLD THE BIKE! A LONG TIME AGO...which is when this thread began. But it seems to not want to die, so... :lol:


----------



## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

noapathy said:


> Does no one read anymore? HE SOLD THE BIKE! A LONG TIME AGO...which is when this thread began. But it seems to not want to die, so...


skimmed your post...

Has the OP tried different pads and realigning them


----------



## Sparkman999 (Dec 19, 2017)

noapathy said:


> Does no one read anymore? HE SOLD THE BIKE! A LONG TIME AGO...which is when this thread began. But it seems to not want to die, so... :lol:


The new owner may need help with those brakes...


----------



## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

cmg71 said:


> skimmed your post...
> 
> Has the OP tried different pads and realigning them


Good question. I'm afraid you'll just have to read the thread like everyo...actually, nevermind. Yeah, he did all the things.



Sparkman999 said:


> The new owner may need help with those brakes...


I'd imagine so. Keep an eye out for a thread titled, "Dude sold me a bike with POS brakes - need help 3 years ago!".


----------

