# turning fallen trees into bridges



## Dragon21 (Aug 10, 2014)

Im having a hard time locating information on this. I have some family property i plan to start buidling some features on after deer season. ive been looking into what exhisting things i can turn into rideable features. one thing we have a few of is fallen trees. I have seen where people flatten the top part of the tree to make it (more)rideable. What is a good tool/ method for doing this?

Thanks!


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## aero901 (Apr 11, 2012)

Chainsaw. We built a 40' log skinny recently from +18" diameter oak logs. Instead of using the saw to plane off the tread, we cut into the log 1.5-2" deep every 2" and broke/cut off the resulting blocks with a sharp rogue hoe. Watch those shins when chopping off the blocks. This leaves a really grippy surface.

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## Dragon21 (Aug 10, 2014)

Thanks, that looks exactly like what im looking to do


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## thefriar (Jan 23, 2008)

aero901 said:


> Chainsaw. We built a 40' log skinny recently from +18" diameter oak logs. Instead of using the saw to plane off the tread, we cut into the log 1.5-2" deep every 2" and broke/cut off the resulting blocks with a sharp rogue hoe. Watch those shins when chopping off the blocks. This leaves a really grippy surface.
> 
> ​


+1... Its my avatar...


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## 9.8m/s/s (Sep 26, 2005)

FYI- sledgehammer works even better than rogue hoe for removing the pieces. Aim at a 45 degree angle to the top of the first one and you should be able to remove 3-4 per swing. Think break, not cut.


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## aero901 (Apr 11, 2012)

We first tried using the back of the rogue hoe like a sledgehammer to knock out the pieces but the cutting edge ended up working much better. It probably didn't help that the blocks were short and wide and hard to get much leverage on. If you have never worked with white oak, it is extremely difficult to get the grain to split and, when it does, it is not usually a clean break. I can see the sledgehammer technique working well with less tough straight grained woods and "tall and skinny" blocks though.


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## 9.8m/s/s (Sep 26, 2005)

aero901 said:


> We first tried using the back of the rogue hoe like a sledgehammer to knock out the pieces but the cutting edge ended up working much better. It probably didn't help that the blocks were short and wide and hard to get much leverage on. If you have never worked with white oak, it is extremely difficult to get the grain to split and, when it does, it is not usually a clean break. I can see the sledgehammer technique working well with less tough straight grained woods and "tall and skinny" blocks though.


The leverage issue is tough. I was working with red oak on the logs in the picture. After the first 15ft or so, we realized any time/ energy we were saving with less cuts, we were wasting on the backend with the sledgehammer bashing them out. After that we cut much shorter spacing (longer relative height).

The other thing that helped -I was originally knocking the chipped pieces out after every hit, but I realized leaving the separated pieces on the top gave greater room for error in the swing- hitting the spent ones, the energy will flow through them like a Newton's cradle and pop off the ones you're aiming for. 
I did the first 115ft that way and they have held up great. I got lazy for the other 120ft and split the logs down the center- they are holding up ok, but I'll need to wrap a number of spots in chicken wire or something as they are beginning to splinter a bit.


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