# First Bike...Trek X Caliber?



## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Gonna buy my first mountain bike within the next weeks I have narrowed my options down to the X-Caliber 4 and the X-Caliber 5. I know the only difference between the two is components. Being that I am just getting into the sport, will I notice a difference between the two? Are the upgraded components worth the extra $110?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I can't remember how Trek numbers their bikes. What fork is on each?


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## stevieray05 (Nov 9, 2005)

The biggest difference is the fork. The xcal 4 has a real cheap 75mm. The G2 frames are designed for 100mm fork travel with 51mm offset crowns. While the xcal 5 has a 100mm fork nether model (4 or 5) has the offset that the frame is designed for. The offset fork is designed for the g2 geometry created by Gary fisher. Not having a fork with the offset will give the bike poor handling. 
Honestly I would spend the extra 200.00 for the xcal 6. That will get you Shimano hydraulic brakes, some SRAM components, better crank, wheel upgrade and a 100mm fork with 51 mm offset and lockout. Much better value in my opinion. The xcal 5 is not worth the extra 110.00 when you look at what the xcal 6 has for 200.00 more.
I have 2011 xcal with the g2 geometry and 51mm offset fork and I can say it handles amazing. Good luck.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Do the upgraded components just make the bike easier to ride? Sorry for all the questions but trying to learn about all this stuff.


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## stevieray05 (Nov 9, 2005)

That is a great question to ask. The g2 geometry is designed to work with the special fork, like the one on the xcal 6. I have not ridden the models you are looking at but based on my 15 years of buying and riding bikes of all kinds I would say the x cal 6 will handle much better. That in my opinion would make the bike a better choice and make your ride more enjoyable.
The 4 is a nice entry level bike but if you are contemplating spending $110 more for the 5 I would strongly recommend going for the x cal 6. You are getting much more for your money and that model will hold up better as you hone your off road skills.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

So would you not recommend the 4 either?


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## stevieray05 (Nov 9, 2005)

I would go with the 6. I look at the upgrade cost of a bike. Rims, brakes and fork are very expensive to upgrade.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks for the input. I have another question. Each level of bike in the x-cal group has 2 different color options and their not offered on the other ones in the catalog as far as I can tell. Since they are all the same frame can you not get them in the other colors? Color won't change my decision but I like some of the colors that aren't offered on the model bike I have looked at,


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## stevieray05 (Nov 9, 2005)

Unless your local dealer can work something out like swapping frames, I would say the colors are limited to what Trek offers....there have been many bikes I have liked but hated the colors. I can defiantly relate to that.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Speedracer 64 said:


> Do the upgraded components just make the bike easier to ride? Sorry for all the questions but trying to learn about all this stuff.


They vary.

Most of them aren't different enough to be worthwhile.

One of the major steps up in level that happens around this pricepoint is to a "real" fork. Bad suspension forks are worse than just riding rigid - they allow the front wheel to twist, so it's hard to hold a line, and heavier riders find that their forks bounce, like a pogo stick, instead of rebounding in a controlled way. Lighter riders may find their forks just don't compress in the first place.

Cheap bikes can also come with components you just have to throw away when you wear them out. Stuff like crank sets with the rings riveted on and wheels with unsealed hubs.

The X-Caliber series is in an awkward pricepoint. Consumers demand a suspension fork and disc brakes, but the bikes don't really cost enough to give Trek a budget for worthwhile parts. Probably they could do a little better just offering a rigid bike with Vs, but they probably don't think it would sell.

You are spending enough money to get a good bike. Just not a new one - are you open to secondhand?


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

I wouldn't rule out secondhand. I don't know what to look for and and stay away from. That's my biggest fear with buying one secondhand is getting screwed.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Start with bike shops. Most decent-sized cities and college towns support some bike shops carrying used bikes. Make some phone calls and you'll find out what's in your area. You can still ride a bunch of bikes back to back that way, and you'll be starting on something tuned up. Ask what kind of warranty they offer. I wouldn't expect more than 30 days, but that's some assurance that they aren't just sending clapped out bikes back out the door without fixing them up.

You can also use sites like bikepedia.com to find out what a bike's original MSRP was, and identify model years and original equipment. I think a new bike drops about 40% of its value relative to MSRP when someone rolls it out the door of the shop.

For your budget, look for name brand forks and hydraulic disc brakes. (RockShox, Fox, Marzocchi, Avid, Shimano, some others.)

Finally, relax. Murphy's Law states that you're going to find out something you're not stoked on with a secondhand bike. But compare what you got secondhand to what you'd have had if you went retail, and you'll get over it fast.

Do you have any friends who ride?


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

No friends that ride. I live in a college town with a couple of bike shops. I haven't asked any of them about used bikes. 


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## Marc2211 (Aug 6, 2013)

I have an X-Cal 5 as a backup bike which I ride a fair bit - and very much enjoy. The geometry is excellent, it is comfortable and really forgiving. The frame is the same across the whole X-Cal range, so I honestly think that if you plan to buy a bike, then upgrade when/if you need to, it is a nice platform. 

People are right in asmuch as the 6 is probably the 'sweet spot' for beginners, but in honesty the stock Suntour fork is not up to the job on anything but fire roads, and is installed across the whole range up to the X-Cal 9. 

I bought the 5, installed a Rockshox XC32 (you can get them for ~130USD), some upgraded brakes (SLX for ~100USD) and as I damaged a wheel, some new Shimano MT-55 wheels. This transformed things for very little money. 

As long as you are happy to upgrade as you go, I think the X-Cal is a nice start point. 

In terms of colours, yes they are specific to each number increment. Imho the grey/green X-Cal 5 paint is the nicest across the line - so I started there!


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

stevieray05 said:


> The offset fork is designed for the g2 geometry created by Gary fisher. Not having a fork with the offset will give the bike poor handling.


Well that is just not true. You will find actually that a lot of people upgrade these bikes to non g2 forks and say they either didn't notice, notice but didn't care, or preferred the change.

Stevieray's other points are very good though. Its really all about dollars. The more you spend the more you get. But the suntour isn't a good fork either. You dont get a rockshox 32 until the 8 (not the 9) and even then at a 1000 bucks its kinda rough. I'm also not a fan of what Trek has done with this line but like others have said its a good frame at the pricepoint and worth upgrading (wisely) if you get into it


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## Marc2211 (Aug 6, 2013)

hankscorpio said:


> Well that is just not true. You will find actually that a lot of people upgrade these bikes to non g2 forks and say they either didn't notice, notice but didn't care, or preferred the change.


I have changed both my X-Cal and Fuel Ex 29er to standard 48mm offset forks (XC32 and Revelation RCT3), and not used the G2 geo. I'd love to say that I found the G2 gave a more precise agile feeling to the bike, floating through all corners etc, and I noticed a huge change in handling after the swap out... but I didn't. I am clearly a hack as I noticed no real difference at all in the course of my normal riding.

Both bikes handled really well before, and also handled really well after (the only difference I noticed that was on the Fuel Ex, I got rid of some very slight unwanted low speed oversteer after the change, so I actually prefer the 48mm fork).

Marc


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Marc2211 said:


> I have changed both my X-Cal and Fuel Ex 29er to standard 48mm offset forks (XC32 and Revelation RCT3),
> 
> Marc


I'm fairly certain those are both actually 46mm offset (which is standard) and that only furthers the point that you can change and not make the handling "poor." Manitou's go 48 which is what I have and I prefer it as well.


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## Marc2211 (Aug 6, 2013)

hankscorpio said:


> I'm fairly certain those are both actually 46mm offset (which is standard) and that only furthers the point that you can change and not make the handling "poor." Manitou's go 48 which is what I have and I prefer it as well.


Sry, yes indeed - 46mm, thanks for picking it up.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

So if I buy a 5 and decide to upgrade it down the road, will the components off the 6 automatically be the best choice? Everybody talks about the fork on the 6 is optimal does that mean down the road that's the best option for a 5? The question is for all the components as well.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Nope.

If you're going to upgrade, do it like you mean it. Go for Shimano Deore or better. Not sure where that breakpoint happens in SRAM, but someone who knows their line better will chime in. Get a serious fork - last I researched, I decided Recon Gold or go home. Get hand-built wheels with serviceable, well sealed hubs.

While I don't like retail bikes in this pricepoint or the "buy a cheap bike and upgrade everything" plan, it's also something I've done. It does have the advantage that I got to choose my components. Instead of the slightly less crappy cheap fork that's still crappy, I could choose to put on something nice. (EBay FTW.) I also got nice hydraulic discs without passing through intermediate steps, etc. If I had spent more at the outset, and had the hookup then that I do now, I'd have spent a less on that bike. But the result's been nice and my shiny new bike is probably never going to be mine quite the way my old Hardrock is.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Ok that's what I was thinking but wasn't sure.


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## hankscorpio (Jun 20, 2012)

Speedracer 64 said:


> So if I buy a 5 and decide to upgrade it down the road, will the components off the 6 automatically be the best choice? Everybody talks about the fork on the 6 is optimal does that mean down the road that's the best option for a 5? The question is for all the components as well.
> 
> Sent from my IPhone 5 using Tapatalk


Definitely not. I dont think anyone meant to say its optimal. At the very least that fork meets the intended geometry of the frame but its still a sub par fork. None of the components on any of those bikes less then the 8 are parts you would upgrade a 4 or 5 to. you would go past them.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

I was just wondering. I know the components are better as you go up just wasn't sure if when it comes time to upgrade those are the ones to use. I've heard people saying I'll save money by buying the higher end bike up front but if those parts aren't what I would upgrade to then I don't see how.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Moving up one level sometimes buys a little time. Sometimes people also back themselves into corners by buying too low end. For example, if a bike ships with rim brakes, putting discs on it usually requires new wheels.

Where things really change though is when you move up to a bike with components you'd keep on purpose. That's why I was trash-talking this entire pricepoint. I think it's a pretty bad value. Still, a lot of us started on bikes we'd never buy, given the chance to do it over. You'll like MTB or not, regardless of the equipment.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

I rented an X-Caliber 9 and really liked it. It had the Rock Shox XC32 fork on it. Not a high end fork but still a nice fork. For a hardtail bike like this one at this price point, the fork is probably the most important upgrade of them all. Spend a little more now and save a ton of money later by getting the good fork, instead up having to spend another $300 for a better fork afterwards.

As for other upgrades; derailleurs, brakes, and tires are the most common. Just keep in mind that a new complete bike costs much less than if you were to buy all of the components individually. My advice is to get the X-Caliber 8 or X-Caliber 9 instead. They are a better value than spending more money later to upgrade a bunch of components.


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

I'd consider used. One of these guys were nabbed for $550 shipped. Holy crap tower pro + full SLX. amazing deal. EBay finds reward patience.

trek x-caliber | eBay


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

bob13bob said:


> I'd consider used. One of these guys were nabbed for $550 shipped. Holy crap tower pro + full SLX. amazing deal. EBay finds reward patience.
> 
> trek x-caliber | eBay


I don't know enough about bikes to buy used. Don't know the difference between good and bad components. What to look for and stay away from.

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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

I used to think buying lower end was fine, and really how much difference could the fork make? Boy was I wrong on many levels. 

Went from a 2003 ironhorse warrior disc pos to a 2009 Cannondale rush sl6. The fox float fork and shock was pure awesomeness, but the bike was much to large. I made a mistake of buying a bike that was too large because it was a good deal. Rode a bike I was unhappy with for two years before selling it and buying another bike. 

What is your price range? I just picked up a 2013 x-caliber, which has a Rockshox Reba RL, deore front deraillure, SRAM x7 rear, elixir 1 brakes, and some other decent stuff for $1200 brand new from my LBS. Hoping to hit some trails tomorrow to see what all the 29er fuss is about. I can tell you I immediately loved the way it handled. Even with the big wheels it feels more stabile and agile than my rush did. It will take me some time to get used to a hard tail again after riding a full suspension bike for a couple years.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Looking to spend around $500. Also been trying to find a higher end used bike with no luck.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

In your range with a good fork and drive components the Marin Bobcat Trail 29 on ebay is one of the best options.
You can also get a BikeDirect Gravity Point 1 and do the Raidon upgrade through Suntour for about the same total price.


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## Sickmak90 (May 27, 2012)

You could get the x-caliber 4 which will give you a good base to upgrade on later. Parts are pretty low end and the fork will likely be a pogo stick.

I am all about getting the best bang for the buck but I'll probably never buy a bike online. I'd rather ride a lower end bike that fits me instead of a nice bike that doesn't.


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## Highland (Jun 24, 2013)

I have the X-Cal 6 and it's perfect for rail-trails and fire roads which is where I ride mostly. I went with the 6 for the hydraulic brakes and lockout feature on the fork. The only thing I upgraded on my 6 was the pedals... bought some Nashbar Verge Platform pedals with traction pins.


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## nugzboltz (Apr 8, 2007)

OP, I would stay away from online bikes since you'll have no idea if they fit you. And buying from your LBS will get you warranty support if anything goes wrong. 

And I think that you would be fine with an xcal 6. At the price point of the xcal series there will always be something better, so if you get serious about biking, you will be doing upgrades anyway unless you start out with a 4 figure bike.

So don't worry too much about chasing specs and enjoy what you have first. I started out on a $500 mongoose similar to the xcal 5 but with no disc brakes and 50mm of fork travel and enjoyed it for years.


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## Speedracer 64 (Oct 15, 2011)

Yeah I am afraid to get a online bike and it either be junk or not right for me


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Speedracer 64 said:


> Yeah I am afraid to get a online bike and it either be junk or not right for me.


Ride some different size bikes. Get an idea of what size is right.
Go in and out of ditches and fast on grass for a better level of info.
Call the people at Crosslake Bikes and ask for help in selecting the right size.
It's usually not that difficult.
The "junk" you want to avoid is the cheap fork on all the bikes they will offer you locally in your price range. 6.2 lbs with only a greased coil spring on one side. ...No adjustable rebound equals pogo stick to bounce your hands off the bars. ...28mm tubes equals flexing for poor control through bumps and ruts. Parking lot test rides will not show the truth.

Go to REI. They will allow a return if you find a lack of performance. The Novara Ponderosa is nearly the same as the Marin Bobcat, both have the same fork. You can begin to see how it rides and adjusts.


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## Biocoug1 (Feb 26, 2014)

I own the X caliber 8. I upgraded the pedals to Specialized white ones, Lizard skin Bearclaw grips, a new saddle and fenders. I have very much enjoyed riding this thing for the three months I have owned it. It climbs great, corners real nice and I have done a couple jumps on it. All in all I love the X-cal for my first Hardtail 29er.

MY next purchase is my first Enduro bike. Here is my X-cal for **** and giggles. Any questions let me know. The upgrade from the Suntour to the Rockshox is pretty significant. The X-cal 8 also uses the SRAM X7 front and real derailuers, they are very smooth in shifting. The Hydraulic brakes are huge! I can stop on a dime on this thing. 

The best upgrade with any X-caliber starts with the 8 and 9. I wanted the 9, but all in all I think I was happiest with the 8 and upgrading minor components. 
Hope it helps.


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