# Scott Scale Jr 24 build, need advice!!!



## kle5701 (Jun 3, 2016)

I found a good deal on a 2012 Scott Scale Jr 24 ($90) but was surprised that it was so heavy, ~28lbs. I disassembled the bike and weighed all parts. Plan is to keep only frame (maybe fork, front rim) and try to build one up to around ~22lbs.

I've already got a few parts on order but am not sure on some of them; I'm not very technical on this so will be learning as I go along.

BTW, see 2nd picture. The weight on some of these parts is absolutely ridiculous. And this is coming from one of the best MTB company.

Questions:
1) I want a 1x drivetrain but am not seeing any options to purchase light ~150mm crankarms that are the 4 spindles variety to go along with the ~32T Raceface narrow wide chainring. Most are the 5 spindles for BMX which would force me to buy the 40T chainring. Also, I'm not really clear on how to set up drivetrain, so hopefully, I don't buy wrong/incompatible parts.

2) The rear wheel is too heavy at 1300g. The frame has no disc brake option where there are a lot of wheels available but I don't see any light rim-brakes wheelset available to purchase?

3) I might consider upgrading to the RST First Air fork, but I don't see where I can even buy one. The weight saving is small (~150g) but this is for my oldest son with a younger one who will inherit this bike afterward so I'm willing to spend a little extra to have a really good bike.


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## lem2 (Mar 2, 2008)

This is what I use but only comes in tapered, I used it with a race face 32t

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cranks/150-thorn-10464-pcd-triple-crankset-mk2-black/?geoc=US



















I have an XT 9sp casette, Deraileur, shifter and chain is new. During my build for my son went with 1x10, LMK

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## firemanj92 (Mar 29, 2006)

I went here for the RST 1st fork it was approx $200 delivered give or take at the time. They delivered via DHL in less than a few days to U.S. For cranks I went to acebmx.com-they have a plethora of a selection or use Dan'scomp.com. My son's Scott spark 24 weighs in at 21lbs for a full suspension with x0 drivetrain, Marta disc, Stan's built wheels, Xfusion shock, RST 1st fork, carbon cockpit and of course signed by Brandon Semenuk.

RST F1RST Air 24" MTB Fork white | Forks Shop


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

I got a chainring and crank from trailcraft bikes, very happy with it. Running it with a zee 10 speed derailluer and shifter. That fork is pretty light compared to most OEM forks I've seen, most were well over 2000g. If you do change it, I got my first air from Bike Shop | Bike-Discount: Shop with Best Price Guarantee also, took a bit longer than the previous poster.

For rims, I used velocity aeroheat 20" for my little guy with rim brakes. They do make a 24". Velocity - Aeroheat - 24" [507] - MSW

Stay away from Koozer hubs that I used, go with BHS or even novatech. The Koozer have all kinds of issues.

btw, pay attention to the bead seat. Don't know if it applies to the 24", but I remember having issues mistakingly getting 20" rims that were slightly larger than the stock 20" rims. There is a difference with the Bmx type stuff, which also affects tire choice.


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## kle5701 (Jun 3, 2016)

Fireman, Erock,

Thanks. Between the RST First Air fork and the Trailcraft crankset, I'm going to go with the crankset. It's pricey but the weight saving is big (350g). I would only be saving 100g with the RST First fork and the current one seems adequate to me.


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## firemanj92 (Mar 29, 2006)

If you go with the RST 100g plus the 350g that will equate to about 1lb of savings. The RST air fork does perform way better than the oem fork that was the selling point for me and I was unable to rebuild the OEM-seal/wipers went bad. I had narrowed it down to a used Sid, RST 1st but couldn't find a decently priced used Sid. The wheelset is another great way to go on a diet but I had to go custom.


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## kle5701 (Jun 3, 2016)

In an effort to control cost, i'm likely going to keep my wheelset. Do any of you think these stock 24" rims can be converted to tubeless with the Schwalbe Rocket Rons I have on order?


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## jestep (Jul 23, 2004)

Erock503 said:


> Stay away from Koozer hubs that I used, go with BHS or even novatech. The Koozer have all kinds of issues.
> 
> btw, pay attention to the bead seat. Don't know if it applies to the 24", but I remember having issues mistakingly getting 20" rims that were slightly larger than the stock 20" rims. There is a difference with the Bmx type stuff, which also affects tire choice.


What problems are you having with the koozers? Ours are still working great, but just wanted to know if there's something we should look out for or something we can do to prevent problems.


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## jestep (Jul 23, 2004)

Not sure if they discontinued them but the ebay spectra 152mm cranks were only about $40 shipped. Can run 2x or can run 1x with a light bash guard and they come in under 600g if you get rid of the steel rings. Since all these bikes still use a square taper BB, it's an easy swap.

I wouldn't try to run tubeless with these rims and 24" rocket rons. It might be possible, but I think it's going to be messy at best and may not work at all.

You can use the schwalbe 20" tubes with the 24" rims though. It's a pain to mount them and easy to pinch when mounting, but they weigh under 100g each. SV7C is the PN for the ultra light 20" tubes.

If you do decide to upgrade wheels in the future, make sure to get mountain bike rims or make sure the BSD on the rims works for mountain bike tires. As others have pointed out, the BMX rims aren't always the same size as mountain bike rims. 

We were able to find some 24" WTB DX23 rims, but probably got lucky. These are good and fairly light rim brake rims if you are able to find any.

As far as forks go, a SID will raise the front end a bit over an inch for the 80mm disc versions, but is a way better fork.


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

jestep said:


> What problems are you having with the koozers? Ours are still working great, but just wanted to know if there's something we should look out for or something we can do to prevent problems.


I'm having no issues so far either, but check the Koozer thread in the wheels and tires forum. People are grenading them like crazy(adult weights). I can't recommend them anymore after seeing all the issues.

edit: if rumor is true, the 2015 versions were a lot better, which is what I have. If you built them a while ago, you might get lucky like me. The newer versions have the black free hub, and are plagued with issues.


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

kle5701 said:


> In an effort to control cost, i'm likely going to keep my wheelset. Do any of you think these stock 24" rims can be converted to tubeless with the Schwalbe Rocket Rons I have on order?


You could always use the "ghetto" tubeless method if the normal methods don't work. They worked for a whole season on my oldest's 24" spec stock rims before I got the crest. IIRC, I used a 20" or 16" tube.






Normal method


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## kle5701 (Jun 3, 2016)

I'm at work so will watch the youtube video later. What is meant by ghetto tubeless; I see that term used a lot. Do you mean using Stan's rim tape, removable valve core, and sealant? If it's possible, this is what I prefer for my son's 24" wheels.


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

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I linked to the normal method using a stans kit. The ghetto method involves using a smaller diameter tube partially inflated, stretching it around the rim centered, then cutting a line down the center of the tube. It acts as a rim strip, then you cut the excess off after mounting the tire.

ive also used this method on a 20" rim with the MSW for rim brakes. You just have to trim it closer to the tire bead so it doesn't interfere with the brake pads.


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## jestep (Jul 23, 2004)

Erock503 said:


> I'm having no issues so far either, but check the Koozer thread in the wheels and tires forum. People are grenading them like crazy(adult weights). I can't recommend them anymore after seeing all the issues.
> 
> edit: if rumor is true, the 2015 versions were a lot better, which is what I have. If you built them a while ago, you might get lucky like me. The newer versions have the black free hub, and are plagued with issues.


I think mine had an alloy freehub if I remember correctly when I installed the cassette. We built them this winter, but I think I got mine back in November of 2015, so I might be ok. They're a little noisy, but otherwise have been working great. Rider is only 55lbs though, so any of them might last forever with that sort of abuse...


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

jestep said:


> I think mine had an alloy freehub if I remember correctly when I installed the cassette. We built them this winter, but I think I got mine back in November of 2015, so I might be ok. They're a little noisy, but otherwise have been working great. Rider is only 55lbs though, so any of them might last forever with that sort of abuse...


Yeah, my guys are 67 and 62lbs, and increasing daily, lol. Both of them are using the koozers. I was a little bummed when I saw the newer versions come out after I built mine, but now I'm thinking I might have got lucky. Just not looking forward to having them grenade miles from a trailhead. Gonna be a long walk back...


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## stom_m3 (Jun 28, 2011)

kle5701 said:


> I found a good deal on a 2012 Scott Scale Jr 24 ($90) but was surprised that it was so heavy, ~28lbs. I disassembled the bike and weighed all parts. Plan is to keep only frame (maybe fork, front rim) and try to build one up to around ~22lbs.
> 
> I've already got a few parts on order but am not sure on some of them; I'm not very technical on this so will be learning as I go along.
> 
> ...


I built up the RC version of this bike at 22lbs. I've included a lot of weights in my build thread. Take a look and let me know if you have any questions. Also, did I see that correctly that your rear tube was 500+ grams??


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## kle5701 (Jun 3, 2016)

Stom_M3, you read correctly, one of the tube is 580g. I don't understand why anyone would do this to their kid's bike. As soon as I decide on the crankset (Trailcraft or Redline Microline), my bike will end up at 22.3lbs. I can get it to ~21 lbs if I do something about the 1300g rear wheel, but that will be costly.


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## jestep (Jul 23, 2004)

kle5701 said:


> Stom_M3, you read correctly, one of the tube is 580g. I don't understand why anyone would do this to their kid's bike. As soon as I decide on the crankset (Trailcraft or Redline Microline), my bike will end up at 22.3lbs. I can get it to ~21 lbs if I do something about the 1300g rear wheel, but that will be costly.


I was wondering about that as well. More than 1lb of rubber in a 24" tube. That's completely crazy...


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## GhostOfForumsPast (Feb 16, 2016)

Counterpoint:

Stop obsessing about grams as they relate to your kid's bike.

Build it and get them riding it. The inane weight weenie stuff matters much more to you than it does to them.

Signed,

Yeah, he rode a stock Scale Junior 24 and turned out ok even though I didn't freak out about the weight


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