# Scrub Components Brake Rotors



## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

I know these have been mentioned a few times on this forum, but just wanted to post up the weights vs. my stock rotors.

Scrub 160/140mm rotors:










Stock Avid rotors:










I'm still getting in a few lighter weight parts for the bike, but I hope with the stock tires it'll be sitting around 21.5lbs, and maybe 21lbs even with SLK tires.


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

Nice.

Can you tell me something - when you mount them are they true ? IE do they run straight ?

Im going to get a pair but the price of them they better be straighter than a straight thing in a straight place...!


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

Unfortunately not mounted yet, but I'll make note of that and post back!


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## Hardtailforever (Feb 11, 2004)

*Wow*

That's impressive. These rotors have me intrigued.


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

My husband installed them, but I've yet to run them (hope to this weekend, but the race bike isn't my every day bike). 

It'll take 2-3 rides to fully break them in, but I'm confident they'll be great. 

Will post a bit more once I get in a ride with them, and hope to get some pics outdoors of them installed.


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

Hubby confirmed the rotors were true at installation. They're still "breaking" in, so squealing a bit when you really get on them or on extended descents, but even from the first tap they work plenty well to stop the bike (levers didn't get anywhere near the bars, etc.). The power should continue to go up as the black layer builds up on the outside, and the squealing should go down 

Definitely happy with performance!


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Just curious, did you mount the 140 up front?


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

miss rides a lot said:


> Hubby confirmed the rotors were true at installation. They're still "breaking" in, so squealing a bit when you really get on them or on extended descents, but even from the first tap they work plenty well to stop the bike (levers didn't get anywhere near the bars, etc.). The power should continue to go up as the black layer builds up on the outside, and the squealing should go down
> 
> Definitely happy with performance!


So you are saying they are less powerfull than the stock avid rotors right? much less powerfull or just a litle less powerfull?


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

What happened to the Black ano?

I think it looks like a 160mm up front...the Specialized Brain E100 fork is a PM, not IS 74mm.


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## Circlip (Mar 29, 2004)

Can't use in wet = non-starter for me. Looks great for those living in drier climes.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

I wonder why they have such a wide braking track? It looks like it's 20-25mm wide, but there's not a XC bike brake out there with more than 16mm of pad width.


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## ohadamirov (Jun 26, 2008)

*I received mine yesterday!*

160+160 mm.I installed them,but yet no tried them. need to make beak-in process.


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## Batas (Jan 16, 2004)

Wtf! If they are bad in the wet, what's the purpose of a disc brake? I would stay with my powerful V's if I only ride in the dry!!


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

The brake track is wide so that they can make 1 disc that will work with every disc caliper.

Granted though - im not aware of any that wide. Juicys are 16mm wide which are amoung the widest. They could make the arms longer and the track thinner - would save weight.

I see though there 56grams instead of the claimed 54 grams.


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## snowdrifter (Aug 2, 2006)

So why can't they be used in the wet? 

What sense does that make?


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## civil (Feb 13, 2008)

Tiffster said:


> I see though there 56grams instead of the claimed 54 grams.


The extra 2g is from the little white sticker


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

I think they can - they just squeel a bit because you need to use organic pads and organics squeel when wet.

I may be wrong though.


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## Kwik (Aug 7, 2007)

Normaly organic pads don't last long enough in wet conditions.


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

Upandatem - the 140mm is on the back.



sergio_pt said:


> So you are saying they are less powerfull than the stock avid rotors right? much less powerfull or just a litle less powerfull?


I think they currently have just as much power as the Avid's. They should continue to gain power as they break in. I never had any problems with stopping or slowing down.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

The rotors run straight, so no issues with them being out of true.

On my .1 accuracy scale the Scrubs came in as:

180mm 65.2g
160mm 57.5g

They can scream like a banshee when I get a bit of snow on the rotors, but they were dry quickly and the noise goes away. Never used any rotors that don't squeal for a bit when wet. Since it's winter time here, I can't comment on their use under extremely wet conditions, but I imagine it would be the same? I remember how well V-Brakes work when wet, NOT!

The rotors are a bit noisy for the first ride, but they never squealed, they have some very strict instructions for breaking in that must be followed.

"The Scrubs are a powerful brake rotor, they dissipate heat extremely well, which means they don't fade very much, they can make a very small bit of noise during hard braking, but it is not bad, modulation isn't the best, but you can crank on these beasts and they never whimper during hard technical and long downhill braking"


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## epicbiker (Aug 26, 2004)

@miss rides a lot

Can you show your complete bike please?

Bye
Marcus


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Batas said:


> Wtf! If they are bad in the wet, what's the purpose of a disc brake? I would stay with my powerful V's if I only ride in the dry!!


I agree. Plus V's are lighter and cheaper. MUCH cheaper and doesnt mean theyr worse


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

epicbiker said:


> @miss rides a lot
> 
> Can you show your complete bike please?
> 
> ...


Full bike shot:


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## epicbiker (Aug 26, 2004)

Thank you!
Nice bike and great wether!

Here is my Epic



Weight is 8.65kg at the moment.

Bye
Marcus


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

miss rides a lot said:


> Full bike shot:


Thats good lookin!


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

epicbiker said:


> Thank you!
> Nice bike and great wether!
> 
> Here is my Epic
> ...


That is light!! Where'd you shave the extra 2~ lbs? I know your chain is switched out, crankset, stem, bar, grips, seatpost, saddle?

Did you switch to grip shift?

I might go grip in the front and keep trigger for the rear. I'm getting a KCNC seat post, and switching out to a Noir bar soon. I know it'll add some weight, but gonna go with Ergon grips (they are sooo nice to my hands). I'll probably wind up with a lighter-weight chain also eventually. I think keeping the stem.

D'oh! I just derailed my own thread.

Edit - also tires and I see rear der. and cassette. I'll be upgrading to full X0 at some point, but stock it's all XTR. We haven't changed much aside from the rotors and saddle!

I'll probably be trying the SLK Fast Trak's at some point, and may also put a 310 on the rear to check that out locally. Weather is not so good this coming weekend, so probably won't go for tires like that in the mud


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## pop_martian (Mar 20, 2007)

amillmtb said:


> Thats good lookin!


Man that's hot!


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

epicbiker said:


> Thank you!
> Nice bike and great wether!
> 
> Here is my Epic
> ...


Thats a hot bike.

You could go under 19lbs with a set of Marta SL's or Formula R1's. They both come in black and red, so they will fit your color scheme.


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## mcrent100 (Jan 25, 2007)

miss rides a lot said:


> That is light!! Where'd you shave the extra 2~ lbs? I know your chain is switched out, crankset, stem, bar, grips, seatpost, saddle?
> 
> Did you switch to grip shift?
> 
> ...


You should look into the No Tubes ztr race wheelset...1200 grams...I don't know how much the Stock Specialized wheels weight but would bet you could save 1/2 pound there...Also some lighter chainrings unless spesh has their own BCD on their rings...Just a few spots to save rotating weight...


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

20.8lbs last night with Fast Trak SLK front, Maxxis 310 rear tire. Truvativ Noir WC bar, Ergon GP1's.

Still waiting on the KCNC seat post. Probably won't switch out the brakes, but I might be changing to a front gripshift in the near future, as well as possibly getting a lighter chain.

We've talked a lot about a wheelset with ZTR rims, 190 hubs, and aerolites. Similar to what I'm running on my 29er right now (355's, 240s hubs, aerolites). Not sure I have that kind of money to bust out for the 190 hubs right now, though :thumbsup:


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## mcrent100 (Jan 25, 2007)

Have you weighed the Roval wheels yet? Just curious..If you switched out the wheels I would just use the ZTR Race Wheels with the American clasic hubs.. It would be the lightest way to go. I have beat the heck outa mine with no issues and I am 175 to 180...I woluld love to have the DT's but they are alot of money plus you cannot get the lightest Stans rim with the Dt's and thats the most important part to save the weight....OH and damn you have a nice bike!!!!


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## epicbiker (Aug 26, 2004)

amillmtb said:


> Thats a hot bike.
> 
> You could go under 19lbs with a set of Marta SL's or Formula R1's. They both come in black and red, so they will fit your color scheme.


Here is an excellist. Bike and list are changing almost daily. The R1 is ordered. But i get a white one with carbonlevers. I also changed the tires into some very light 2,25 RocketRons.



Bye
Marcus


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

is their a weight limit to these brakes. misridealot you look fairly light weight. how do they work for a heavier rider?


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## bhsavery (Aug 19, 2004)

OilcanRacer said:


> is their a weight limit to these brakes. misridealot you look fairly light weight. how do they work for a heavier rider?


Kinda a silly question:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momentum


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## chuckji (Feb 7, 2008)

*Roval Controle SL Weight*



mcrent100 said:


> Have you weighed the Roval wheels yet? Just curious..If you switched out the wheels I would just use the ZTR Race Wheels with the American clasic hubs.. It would be the lightest way to go. I have beat the heck outa mine with no issues and I am 175 to 180...I woluld love to have the DT's but they are alot of money plus you cannot get the lightest Stans rim with the Dt's and thats the most important part to save the weight....OH and damn you have a nice bike!!!!


Mine weighed 1400g exactly (with rim stips, but without valve stems).


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## iClique (Oct 7, 2008)

NICE BIKE!!! What kind of seat/post combo is that?


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

bhsavery said:


> Kinda a silly question:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momentum


not really since most weight weenie parts come with a weight limit to give the manufacture a guidline on how hard a part can be used and by whom.

and the wiki mention was worthless as heat not stopping power is what it is in reference to.

higher weight= more heat= bye bye two piece rotors and pads.

my question also addresses durability over longer periods of braking on steep hills as well.

comprende


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## miss rides a lot (Jul 23, 2008)

OilcanRacer said:


> is their a weight limit to these brakes. misridealot you look fairly light weight. how do they work for a heavier rider?


I'd contact the manufacturer directly regarding weight limits. I'm guessing they don't have them, but honestly can't say. As you note, I don't have to worry about that  I'm also running 160/140, so I'd think a heavier rider might prefer to stick with 160's fr/rear.


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## bhsavery (Aug 19, 2004)

OilcanRacer said:


> not really since most weight weenie parts come with a weight limit to give the manufacture a guidline on how hard a part can be used and by whom.
> 
> and the wiki mention was worthless as heat not stopping power is what it is in reference to.
> 
> ...


Sigh. 
Let me explain more slowly then (pun intended).

Brakes have to slow you down. They do this providing turning the energy of you going forward into, yes heat or noise (believe it or not those squealy brakes are slowing you down, albeit annoyingly). Its all about energy dissipation.

The point here is that brakes are taking the energy from your momentum and turning it into heat/other stuff to slow you down. Agreed?

Momentum is not just a made of "weight" though. It also is proportional to the velocity. So you could have the same force from braking a 100lb guy from 20mph as a 200lb guy from 10mph. *So putting a weight limit on a brake rotor is kinda silly unless you also put a speed limit on them. *

Obviously I'm oversimplifying here, but the forces on brakes are much different than say the force on a lightweight stem.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

scrub doesn't have a weight limit on their rotors (per their website)

IF the material that they use is what i think it is, then it is just as strong as stainless and nearly as tough. they do say that you should only use organic pads, which leads me to believe that the toughness isn't quite as good as stainless. heat dissipation is claimed to be better than stainless, which could very well be true.

for riders 160-185 i would say if you use 160 rotors front and rear you will not have any issues with overheating (this of course depends heavily on rider skill and terrain). under 160 you should be able to get away with the 140mm rear rotor like what missridesalot has. i am sure that some riders use 140's and weigh 190lbs... but i KNOW that i can't get away with that due to riding style and i weigh less than 185lbs.

i am sure that missridesalot will post up longer term results later in the year... i fully expect that these rotors will perform great and last the full season and then some.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

whybotherme said:


> i am sure that some riders use 140's and weigh 190lbs... but i KNOW that i can't get away with that due to riding style and i weigh less than 185lbs.


I use 140 in the rear without any issues. Necessary rotor is more of an issue of available traction. On some skinny XC tires I will lock out the rear with a 140 without much effort. 160 will just lock out easier and will make it a bit more difficult to modulate.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

Curmy said:


> I use 140 in the rear without any issues. Necessary rotor is more of an issue of available traction. On some skinny XC tires I will lock out the rear with a 140 without much effort. 160 will just lock out easier and will make it a bit more difficult to modulate.


i disagree.

first of all larger rotors help to NOT lock the brakes. locking the brakes causes a decrease in friction which increases your stopping distance. (not to mention the whold skidiot thing)

about modulation: larger rotors do allow more mechanical advantage for the caliper, but what that gives you is better feel (providing you have skill in braking and decent brakes ie. correctly proportioned piston surface area and displacement, not a jab just saying). larger rotors yeild better power, heat dissipation... better braking BUT at a weight penalty.

like i said, it all depends on rider and terrain. certain really big riders can get away with a 140 rotor while some smaller riders can reach the limitations of a smaller rotor pretty quickly. at 160lbs i still ride like a DH racer and on a real long, fast, technical descent if i am pushing hard i can overheat a 140 badly without intending to, of course at 200 i needed all the rotor i could get!


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

whybotherme said:


> i disagree.
> first of all larger rotors help to NOT lock the brakes. locking the brakes causes a decrease in friction which increases your stopping distance. (not to mention the whold skidiot thing)


Incorrect. For a given pressure in the system there is a given force on the caliper. Friction is proportional to that force. Torque is that force multiplied by rotor diameter. Locking happens when torque applied by the brake exceeds torque from ground traction. With a larger rotor it will apply larger torque for the same force applied to the lever thus locking the wheel sooner. Mechanics 101.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

Curmy said:


> Incorrect. For a given pressure in the system there is a given force on the caliper. Friction is proportional to that force. Torque is that force multiplied by rotor diameter. Locking happens when torque applied by the brake exceeds torque from ground traction. With a larger rotor it will apply larger torque for the same force applied to the lever thus locking the wheel sooner. Mechanics 101.


maybe all he tried to say was that larger rotors give better modulation which on the other hand reduces the chance of locking the brakes. 
But you are also correct - you need much less handforce on the lever to get the same amount of brakepower out of a larger rotor...so by using the same handforce you sure lock up faster than with the smaller rotor.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

Curmy said:


> Incorrect. For a given pressure in the system there is a given force on the caliper. Friction is proportional to that force...


disagree. when you overheat the system you lose braking force. Thermodynamics 101 (yes i have taken both those classes and many more).

btw.. i am not questioning your skill as a rider or intellect, and appreciate the discussion. i do however think that if we as engineers sat down at a whiteboard we would be on the same page.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

whybotherme said:


> disagree. when you overheat the system you lose braking force. Thermodynamics 101 (yes i have taken both those classes and many more).


You may disagree, but you are wrong for the reason that you need to discuss things that are relevant to the issue at hand - that is what I used to teach my students.

Here is what you wrote:



whybotherme said:


> first of all larger rotors help to NOT lock the brakes. locking the brakes causes a decrease in friction which increases your stopping distance. (not to mention the whold skidiot thing)
> 
> about modulation: larger rotors do allow more mechanical advantage for the caliper, but what that gives you is better feel (providing you have skill in braking and decent brakes ie. correctly proportioned piston surface area and displacement


That is wrong and irrelevant.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

you win. :thumbsup:

missridesalot will be putting some more abuse to those sweet rotors tomorrow in preparation for the first race of the US Cup series next weekend. i hope to be able to snap some decent pics. hopefully some of them come out...


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

whybotherme said:


> you win. :thumbsup:


Indeed.


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

bhsavery said:


> Sigh.
> So you could have the same force from braking a 100lb guy from 20mph as a 200lb guy from 10mph. *So putting a weight limit on a brake rotor is kinda silly unless you also put a speed limit on them. *
> QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

oilcan...

if i get a set of these for my bike i will let you know how they fare. missridesalot doesn't really push hers that hard (read: skinny ass girl) but if i ever put a set on one of my bikes i will.

FWIW... Scrub claims that these dissipate heat better than stainless. i kinda buy that statement because stainless isn't the best conductor of heat.


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## bhsavery (Aug 19, 2004)

OilcanRacer said:


> i tend to cook rotors only from descending very very high altitudes taking the road back home from riding the trail. unfortunately not all trails end up in front of my house.:madman:


Right Exactly my point. The limit on when a rotor will overheat is not just dependent on rider weight, just as much, if not more important is the type of braking you do, terrain etc.

Like others have said, in certain situations (flat land slow rider) a 140 rear rotor will work for a 250 lb guy no problem.


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## robbieracer (Dec 3, 2004)

I am keen to get some of these rotors, however I am wondering which brakes work best with the pads that they require?

I am running Avid Juiceys right now with sintered pads on normal rotors and they are not very impressive.

Perhaps Formula or Magura might have a nice feel and plennty of power?
I am running 7" rotors and places here are plenty steep, so i am after a solid effective brake with as much feel as possible

cheers

Rob :thumbsup:


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## amillmtb (Jun 24, 2005)

robbieracer said:


> I am keen to get some of these rotors, however I am wondering which brakes work best with the pads that they require?
> 
> I am running Avid Juiceys right now with sintered pads on normal rotors and they are not very impressive.
> 
> ...


You could run organic pads. The pad life is much shorter, but they are lighter and they have better stopping power.

Any upgrade to either Formula or Magura will be a huge upgrade in stopping power compaired to they Juicy's.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

robbieracer said:


> I am keen to get some of these rotors, however I am wondering which brakes work best with the pads that they require?
> 
> I am running Avid Juiceys right now with sintered pads on normal rotors and they are not very impressive.
> 
> ...


Rob,

I ride pretty hard (DH racer) and have not had problems with the Juicy's. I have several sets dating as far back as 05. If you are running 185 rotors front and rear and don't have enough power I would say that you probably need to flush the fluid out of them and redo the bleed process. Make sure you use the higher temp non-silicon brake fluid and that you flush them completely. Another problem I have had previously is the O-rings (especially the one on the caliper under the bleed screw) breaking down. Make sure the O-rings are in good shape and that they are in the right place. If you still have problems there could be a couple of issues... the first one that I would go after are the brake lines. On my DH race bike I was running XT brakes and they lacked power until I changed over to Goodridge SS braided lines. The difference was HUGE (picked up some weight though). As far as the pads go, the organic pads do work better under certain conditions but they wear faster. Also the organics are the only way to get the super light aluminum plate kind. Formula brakes are really sweet but expensive and the price has kept me from buying them. Another brake that I really like is the Hope M4's. I have them on my SuperD bike with 185 rotors front and rear and they are really awesome.


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## robbieracer (Dec 3, 2004)

I have used Juicey 7's, Juicey5's and ultimates, and only the ultimates have given any trouble at all. The5s in particular were really good. Avid do seem to have seal issues witht he ulitmates where they get spongy and need bleeding, even from new, and I am not sure yet whether it is an actual seal quality or machining issue.

I would not be going to braided lines as it is a very light trail bike, but I do take your point about braided lines! perhaps on my next steamer bike...


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

robbieracer said:


> I have used Juicey 7's, Juicey5's and ultimates, and only the ultimates have given any trouble at all. The5s in particular were really good. Avid do seem to have seal issues witht he ulitmates where they get spongy and need bleeding, even from new, and I am not sure yet whether it is an actual seal quality or machining issue.
> 
> I would not be going to braided lines as it is a very light trail bike, but I do take your point about braided lines! perhaps on my next steamer bike...


ahhh! my wife has a set of ultimates with a similar issue. if you hold pressure on the lever the lever will slowly travel all the way to the bar. i think the problem is the master cylinder is bleeding pressure back into the reservior. this is not a problem with heat because it happens in a static situation standing still, cold.

i have not had the lever replaced but i am sure that if i did the problem would go away. these brakes didn't have the problem when we bought them two years ago but picked it up somewhere along the way (i think i noticed it a couple months ago and told her to just deal with it till she got her new bike. hahaha!)

if your brakes are fairly new i would contact avid. i am sure that if you and i both have the same issue then they know about it!


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

What organic pads are the lightest and best....


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Don't know about the best, but the lightest I've found, and used successfully for a couple years now are the Kool Stop organics with aluminum backing plates.


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## STS (Jun 24, 2004)

also A2Z with alu backing plates

about scrub rotors, they have an insane price
I would have bought a 180mm one, but not at $140


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

we are using the Avid ones. Kool Stop is actually suggested by Scrub.

action shot!


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the pad info, it helps.

Just curious if any Magura Marta SL Riders know the weight of the pads that come with them; I guess they are not aluminum backed or organic.

Ya, as with scrubs 180mm, I agree... 140$... savn for the new Tomac Type X.. and 2 rotors with the Ti bolts (310$, I believe). Is a big chunk into the penny Jar.

Thanks again,
Blown Civic and Why Bother Me (Nice action pic)


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

If you want to try to keep it fairly budget you can use 3 steel bolts instead of 6 Ti and have it about the same weight. lots of racers are using only 3 Ti bolts. Sauser supposedly ran 3 Al bolts for the WC.


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## pastajet (May 26, 2006)

I have tested different rotors so many times it makes my head hurt, one thing I have found that it is best to use 6 steel rotor bolts. You can use the Ti bolts but they are harder to torque down as much as steel and after using them a number of times the torx heads tend to strip. Or try 3 steel and 3 TI, that is a good compromise. 

In regards to doing 3 bolts, after lot's of testing I have always found that 3 bolts tend to loosen up pretty quickly, and the last thing I want is a loose sloppy rotor. Yea, some rotor designs have less the 6 bolts, I have just found that on 6 bolt designs my rotor bolts loosen with 3 bolts. Just not a place I skimp to lose weight.

IMHO Pro Racers don't count since they are only doing it for one race and they tend to have the bike checked and rechecked.


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

yep... the bike pictured on this thread gets torn down every time it gets ridden. every bearing checked, every bolt torqued. can't win the race if you have mechanicals. i run 6 Ti bolts on the front wheel and 3 on the rear. just a little extra margin of safety on that critical front brake.

photos to follow but she won the US Cup Rnd #1 by 10 minutes (Cat 1, 2 laps).

Thanks Scrub Components!


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## Thomas Anderson (Mar 10, 2006)

You wait till I get my gender change, I'll kick her ass! Right J ?!


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## whybotherme (Sep 12, 2008)

Thomas Anderson said:


> You wait till I get my gender change, I'll kick her ass! Right J ?!


if i can't beat her you won't either!  maybe if you use some super duper matrix stuff on her... 

when are you going to get your skinny but back on the bike and come racing with us?!?!?!


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## josliver (Oct 5, 2007)

*Hope mini X2 with Scrub rotors*

Did anyone try the Hope mini X2 with the Scrub rotors with good results?
How do you compare the stopping power between the Scrub and the Hope floating rotors?
I am not able to efficiently stop with the Scrub rotors on my bike after around 200 Km.
Braking is noisy and power is low.
I am using 160/160mm.

Thank you...... JOliveira


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## MisterC (May 17, 2007)

Not sure anyone still cares but, my Scrub White rotors just came last week and I finally got them on today.

Went 140mm in the rear and, with my XTR caliper, I lost the brake spacer altogether (was surprised how heavy these are) which made the total weight savings almost .5 lbs.

Rotors total weight, 98g. The Hayes they replaced were 204.

Bike now sits at 18.07. Bummer is, the ti bolts are bigger than the steel they replaced and they don't fit between the rotor and the fork. So they had to put the steel back on and the clearance is super close. Hope this doesn't matter.

Hopefully the Niner carbon fork won't have this problem.

Sorry for lack of scale picks, forgot to bring my camera to the shop and I don't have a hanging scale here. Next time I bring it in, will do.


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## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

so for those that have been using these, how long are they lasting compared to other rotors?

i just noticed i have gone thru another set on rotors on my training wheels(gotten too thin). not that i ride the brakes, its just that we have a lot of steep and high mountains here with not much flat.


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## nikoli8 (Mar 23, 2008)

Can you cut them down.. or is it a diameter issue..


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## MisterC (May 17, 2007)

Its the head of the screw coupled with the thickness of the rotor. Has nothign to do with the length of the threaded piece into the hub.


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

Did you get your lbs to instal a set of brake rotors ? Would it not have been quicker to do yourself ?

Anyway - you can purchase low profile titanium rotor bolts, it's not to uncommom for standard bolts not too fit. There's a place here in the UK sells them if your wanting a set.


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## MisterC (May 17, 2007)

Its not quite that simple. My LBS forgot to order my organic pads and I swapped the hayes rotors to another bike.

So the LBS agreed to lend me a set of theirs until the pads came in. So they did the swap for me when the pads did come in.

Yes, normally it would be quicker for me to do it myself.

Do you have a link to those low profile bolts or should I just google it?


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## Tiffster (Jan 30, 2008)

http://oscommerce.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=26_24&products_id=106


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Just ordered a set of scrub 160's to replace the 220g's worth of formula rotors on there right now!


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## usuckpoo (Mar 16, 2009)

Hi guys, has anyone had issues with the performance of these discs relative to the rest of whats being offered on the market?

I have mustered enough courage to make that dent in my wallet, but i just want to make sure i dont compromise on anything apart from losing my hard earned moneies, such as a lack of braking power or the possibility of warped discs from hard riding (Both of which i heard were symptoms of scrub discs thus far)


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## unsuspended (Dec 17, 2005)

So I just decided to take a look at Scrub's website. Let's see. $145 per rotor, $35 per bolt kit, and $22 per pad kit. About $400 total to save the weight of 100 grams, one gram weighing the same as one paperclip. Those are some very expensive paperclips. Hopefully you are all sponsored by Scrub and get this crap for free.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

unsuspended said:


> So I just decided to take a look at Scrub's website. Let's see. $145 per rotor, $35 per bolt kit, and $22 per pad kit. About $400 total to save the weight of 100 grams, one gram weighing the same as one paperclip. Those are some very expensive paperclips. Hopefully you are all sponsored by Scrub and get this crap for free.


If you can not afford it - it does not mean it is crap.

You can buy bolts and pads cheaper - it will cost you the same as bolts and pads for any other rotor out there. Many rotors go for around $40 to $60. So it is really under $200 extra that you pay to save 100g. Thus your math is off. $2 per gram is not the best ratio, but close or better to what most manufacturers charge for weight savings on their top end complete bikes.


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## dmcgoy (Apr 16, 2006)

unsuspended said:


> So I just decided to take a look at Scrub's website. Let's see. $145 per rotor, $35 per bolt kit, and $22 per pad kit. About $400 total to save the weight of 100 grams, one gram weighing the same as one paperclip. Those are some very expensive paperclips. Hopefully you are all sponsored by Scrub and get this crap for free.


Just because you can't afford it (neither can I!) doesn't mean it's "crap".


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## p_shep (Jan 12, 2005)

Yeah, Aston Martains are **** too.


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## ohadamirov (Jun 26, 2008)

unsuspended said:


> So I just decided to take a look at Scrub's website. Let's see. $145 per rotor, $35 per bolt kit, and $22 per pad kit. About $400 total to save the weight of 100 grams, one gram weighing the same as one paperclip. Those are some very expensive paperclips. Hopefully you are all sponsored by Scrub and get this crap for free.


I sponsored by myself !
Personally i don't give a **** to spend nearly 400$ to save another 100 grams, i'm not a rich men but i like my hobby ! Most important thing, that's not only one of the lightest rotors on the market, but they also durable and performs well !

You beter take a look on Carbon-Ti's rotors ... 400 euros each.
Regards, Ohadamirov..


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

cant w8 to get my 2x160mm hope i get them this weekend


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## Kwik (Aug 7, 2007)

Robin v Berkel said:


> cant w8 to get my 2x160mm hope i get them this weekend


Hey Robin,

I ordered mine 6 weeks ago, still havent got them. I hope you don't get them this weekend, or else I am the second person with scrub rotors in Nederland


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

Kwik said:


> Hey Robin,
> 
> I ordered mine 6 weeks ago, still havent got them. I hope you don't get them this weekend, or else I am the second person with scrub rotors in Nederland


damn postoffic thy say thy open to 15:00 onlye thy are open to 13;30 now it close so i get them inday or 2

i order my no more then 4 weeks go from http://www.dulight.fr/catalog/


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

i got my set to day wil see how thy work if thy work super i go get 140mm 


thy looks nice on my bike 
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/3580795/


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## robbieracer (Dec 3, 2004)

Upandatem said:


> Just ordered a set of scrub 160's to replace the 220g's worth of formula rotors on there right now!


How have the brakes been so far?
Are you using the standard Formula organic pads?
Cheers!!!!

Rob


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

robbieracer said:


> How have the brakes been so far?
> Are you using the standard Formula organic pads?
> Cheers!!!!
> 
> Rob


I wish I could give you something rob, but I haven't got them yet. 

I ordered them form mtbr member jmartpr so they should be here soon, if not this week then probably early next week sometime. I also ordered a set of kool-stop organics from scrub so I won't be using the stock R1 pads for the simple fact that I don't think pads that have been broken in on the steel formula rotors will work too well on the new scrubs.

I'll be sure to keep you posted though! :thumbsup:


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## MisterC (May 17, 2007)

Being cautious I took mine off for Big Bear due to the muddy conditions. So I don't really know yet and it hasn't stopped raining since so...I got nothin.

But I am curious, they tell you you need to leave them home if it gets muddy. So, does anyone have any more specific details about this? I assume they must be able to get wet, what about the muddy conitions makes these inappropriate?


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

*Scrub Rotor + 09 Marta pads*



rockyuphill said:


> I wonder why they have such a wide braking track? It looks like it's 20-25mm wide, but there's not a XC bike brake out there with more than 16mm of pad width.


yes its wide, but only just wide enough for 09 Marta (semi) Magnesium with the broader Louise/Julie pads


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

culturesponge said:


> yes its wide, but just about wide enough for 09 Marta's with the Louise/Julie pads


Is it just me or can one see the vibration of the discs by just looking at the pads traces on the rotor?


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

nino said:


> Is it just me or can one see the vibration of the discs by just looking at the pads traces on the rotor?


my rotors & pads have bedded-in nicely and pretty much work silently even under really hard braking, i've done about 200 miles on them.

i think its traces of pad track marks from when they were brand new & just starting the bedding-in process, soon enough pad build up will obscure it. mrs culturesponge's Scrubs have continuous layer of pad tracking - she's clocked up over 600 miles with hers


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

culturesponge said:


> my rotors & pads have bedded-in nicely and pretty much work silently even under really hard braking, i've done about 200 miles on them.


No, you did not get. Nothing that Nino does not personally use himself can possibly perform well - it has to vibrate. Only Alligator rotors with EBC gold pads can possibly be any good. It has the lowest bzing m-factor, as measured by German magazines.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

Curmy said:


> No, you did not get. Nothing that Nino does not personally use himself can possibly perform well - it has to vibrate. Only Alligator rotors with EBC gold pads can possibly be any good.


hah! don't know if that was his intention but now i'm even more paranoid now using alloy rotors with a 5g 12t Chris King lockring rather than a regular one that weighs 4 grams more - i might be a candidate for a weenie Darwin award

...........edit to reduce excessive ! .............


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

Curmy said:


> No, you did not get. Nothing that Nino does not personally use himself can possibly perform well - it has to vibrate. Only Alligator rotors with EBC gold pads can possibly be any good. It has the lowest bzing m-factor, as measured by German magazines.


HA - i got you in that other thread didn't I? That wasn't against you in personal at all. I try to keep it topic related.

My question here was honest-not trying to make any negative comments. I never did on these rotors and won't do so. I sure would do when i would have some bad own experience. It just seems the braketrack has marks from a certain vibration. I have never seen something similar so i just asked.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

nino said:


> HA - i got you in that other thread didn't I? That wasn't against you in personal at all. I try to keep it topic related.


You got me?? 

You did annoy me with some utterly baseless assertions, but if such things ever "got me", I would not be using internet forums.


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

Curmy said:


> You got me??
> 
> You did annoy me with some utterly baseless assertions, but if such things ever "got me", I would not be using internet forums.


good thing you can't read german then


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

nino said:


> My question here was honest-not trying to make any negative comments. I never did on these rotors and won't do so. I sure would do when i would have some bad own experience. It just seems the braketrack has marks from a certain vibration. I have never seen something similar so i just asked.


if you look closely you can see the same marks in most of the Scrub rotor pics on this tread, its just part of the normal bedding-in process - they can howl like a newborn when they are brand new, especially when mounted with centrelock adapters.

Scrubs perform as well as steel rotors in the dry mountainous terrain here with a dedicated set of KoolStop or SwissStop organics + they are an initially expensive but highly effective way to reduce rotational weight - nino your missing out

...........edit to add back edit............


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## nino (Jan 13, 2004)

culturesponge said:


> your missing out


No i don't. I do ride in the wet as well, on a regular basis (i'm in Switzerland) and if i use heavy discbrakes i at least want all the advantages of them. The biggest benefit discs have over Vs is their wet-performance....

I won't use parts that hurt performance where i need it.


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## Broccoli (Jun 11, 2008)

nino said:


> good thing you can't read german then


No, and I have no intention of learning it. Anything worth reading is translated to English, and for my personal use English, Russian and now picking up some Spanish is enough.


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

nino said:


> No i don't. I do ride in the wet as well, on a regular basis (i'm in Switzerland) and if i use heavy discbrakes i at least want all the advantages of them. The biggest benefit discs have over Vs is their wet-performance....
> 
> I won't use parts that hurt performance where i need it.


ah yes v brakes, i have lots of scars to remind me of those antiquated things

its no problem for me to change rotors + pads to suit the conditions, i pull the Scrubs if theres any chance of very muddy trails or for where there's excessively long steep descents - there's quite a few mountains ranges over here in california as well you know (but usually obscured by smog)

Scrubs handle heat alot better than my Stans alloy rotors used too.

................edit to reduce blah.............................


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## p_shep (Jan 12, 2005)

nino said:


> Is it just me or can one see the vibration of the discs by just looking at the pads traces on the rotor?


Just received mine :thumbsup: and can tell you those marks are machining marks.


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## eliflap (Dec 13, 2007)

i used last year the Scrub's ... maybe one of the firsr pairs delivered 

used with Marta SL and Koolstop organic pads

i have no issues in the wet ... my first ride with that set up was under a damn rain....  


personally i liked Scrub . but i did not like the blue colored spider ...

now i see there are some new colors .... :thumbsup:


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## zburt (Jun 9, 2007)

I ride in the rain all the time and other then they become loud, no issues. They work great in the rain and stop great. They are lighter then the stock rotors that came with my avid utlimates and stop better! 

If your having problems with low clearance of the rotor bolts then try the ti rotor bolts from scrubs. They are very low profile and the only ti bolt that cleared my forks on the front!

AGAIN-They work great in the rain! Are loud, but dry quickly under hard braking.


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## slyboots (Sep 16, 2005)

I didn't have problems with Scrubs in wet either. They do work.
And regarding those wavy marks on a newly bedded rotor - they even out with more use. My rotors don't have them. So, no worries guys, they don't pulse when braking.


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

...just got my scrub rotors today! Now just waiting on the koolstop pads I ordered from scrub...


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## p_shep (Jan 12, 2005)

Oh MY GOD they are loud!

I've done way more then 25 hard brakes on them and they still make SO much noise.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Anyone used the scrub rotors with formula R1 brakes?


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

sergio_pt said:


> Anyone used the scrub rotors with formula R1 brakes?


...have the R1's, have the Scrubs, just waiting on the organic pads.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

sergio_pt said:


> Anyone used the scrub rotors with formula R1 brakes?


I've got 3-4 good rides on that exact combination now. Only have the front R1, because the rear is B.O. from ChainReactionCycles. I'm using them with KoolStop organic pads. I hate the fact that I've put "heavier" brake pads (steel backing plates) onto my uber light brakes (Tom - Kool Stop are you listening?). However, the performance is top notch as far as I am concerned. They modulate as well and have just as much power as any other brake I've ever used. I'm currently using M975 XTR with Kool Stop organics with aluminum backing plates and 140mm rear Scurb rotor on the back (duh!). As soon as my back brake is shipped, I have the rear Kool Stop pads waiting to go with the Scrub rotor.


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Just got my kool stop organic pads today and threw them in my R1's. Just like BlownCivic I'm not too happy about swapping out aluminum backed pads with steel backed ones but whatever. 

I only managed to do the intial break-in proceedure (25 hard stops each brake) and man do these things howl. I expect them to quiet down a little but I doubt they'll ever be completely silent which is not a problem for me as I like a little noise to warn-off hikers. 

Power is still not quite up to what my steel rotors had but not too far off and it should improve soon.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

thats great. Seems like a good combination to save weight. 
thanks. keep posting your experiences.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Upandatem said:


> I only managed to do the intial break-in proceedure (25 hard stops each brake) and man do these things howl. I expect them to quiet down a little but I doubt they'll ever be completely silent which is not a problem for me as I like a little noise to warn-off hikers.


Expect them to become silent. The only time I've heard them make any noise (since initial break-in) is when they are wet, and as far as I know that's the case for most any disc brake setup.


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## p_shep (Jan 12, 2005)

The rear's silent (or near enough), but my front STILL makes SO MUCH noise!

I wonder if kool-stop have considered doing alu specific compounds?


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

my 140mm Rotor is 43gr i wis it was 39gr 


bike is now 8.17kg ( RK SS 2.2 ) with 140mm


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## culturesponge (Aug 15, 2007)

Robin v Berkel said:


> my 140mm Rotor is 43gr i wis it was 39gr
> 
> looking good Robin v Berkel, i really like this build - your bike has grown on me
> 
> ...if you wanted to loose 4g on your Scrubs, get out your dremel, it shouldn't take more than 1/2 an hour to mark out the areas then grind them out


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## Robin v Berkel (Aug 19, 2008)

culturesponge said:


> Robin v Berkel said:
> 
> 
> > my 140mm Rotor is 43gr i wis it was 39gr
> ...


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## elmar schrauth (Dec 15, 2006)

Does anybody know, why they dont produce them anymore ?


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

I think it wasn't enough demand for them mainly because if the high price . Functionally they are awesome and bloody light . I love mine and I actually like them more than my carbon ceramic rotors and that's saying something . Unfortunately you have to either get them second hand or try Ebay for any NOS ones .


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## Spin Cycle (Nov 6, 2004)

elmar schrauth said:


> Does anybody know, why they dont produce them anymore ?


 you can still find them around new

r 2 bike has 140 mm black with green ring


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## Seb K (Apr 21, 2009)

That's been there for ages . I think 140mm is a little small . I learnt that the hard way !!!


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