# My 24.8# 2010 SWORKS stumpy FSR. Goal is under 20#



## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

hey guys,


current setup is 24.8#. How can i get it under 20? i already order some parts and will update the post when its done. I will also post up pics when I'm finish. 

2010 sworks stumpy fsr
small frame
Carbon frame
S140TA fork
AFR Brain Fade shock
Formula R1 brakeset
SRAM XX Trigger
XTR front Derailleur
XX rear 
S-Works OS Carbon. 3 cogs
10 speed
sworks Carbon bar
Syntace stem
sworks carbon seatpost
Roval carbon wheelset 26"
Hutchinson lightweight tires. 2.0. Tubeless
Face off pedal
stock saddle
stock grips


Going 1x10 setup this wk with carbon spider, just waiting on the parts to get here. Using the stock OS carbon arms and XX1 chainring. Went with 30T front and 11-36 rear. Also order a full carbon saddle from china and lightweight pedal. Might take a few wks to get here. Also new ESI Grips. 

How much weight y'all think i would lose after going 1x10, new saddle, pedals and grips? 


edit: 
Decided to leave the brakes alone and save weight elsewhere.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

You could probably save in the range of 1 to 1.5 pounds with those changes, and they are good choices. All 3 are among the cheapest ways to save weight, especially if the saddle is off eBay.

As for dropping the brake, check out this thread as it is reversed, but similar:
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/no-rear-brake-845468.html

Next up for weight would be a wheelset, and lighter tires.

Can you tell us more about the carbon spider?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

figure you would give me some feedback. i was following your thread and you're the one that pointed me to the ESI grips and ebay saddle. Thx! 

Man, these are royal carbon wheel set, how can you do better? and which tires do you recommend? 

yea, i haven't received the carbon spider yet. the shop order them for me. I will keep u posted when i have them on.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Sorry, misread the wheelset. If you have the Control SLs, then you're pretty light.

Hutchinson has several "lite" tires, but the lightest I believe is the Mosquito at 590g. Not sure which one you have. On the lower end of the scale is Schwalbe Furious Fred at 315g, but they aren't for all riders and conditions. As reference though, assuming the Mosquitos, you'd save 550g on the rubber, or over a pound.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Unless all you plan to do is ride the bike path...there is no way I'd remove the front brake. The majority of your braking power comes from the front brake.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

yea, i been reading most people mainly use their front brake. I don't know why i only use my rear. I guess its riding style. 

correction on the spider, it is not carbon. Just the standard specialized one. 

also, using hutchinson python tire now. Will look into Mosquito ones. 


still waiting on the saddle, pedals and grips. I got my bike back from the LBS. Got the 1x10 setup done. Without pedals and front brake, it is 21.02#. Will update the posting with pictures after i finish. I don't think i can go under 20. I guess i'll be happy with low 20's.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Why are you putting 2.0" tires on a 140mm travel bike?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

stock tires are 2.2 front and 2.0 rear. 

i can adjust it to 115mm travel in the front.


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## holyPT (Dec 15, 2013)

Isn't stumpjumper more of a "enduro"/hard trail kind of a bike? (that is why it comes with the geometry for 140mm forks)

Although this might not be applicable since I did a XC build...
For part ideas check my signature. I have weights of multiple parts I used so you can have a decent look at things and do the math. Problem is I kinda use some expensive parts...


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Le Duke said:


> Why are you putting 2.0" tires on a 140mm travel bike?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He's riding XC-style trails.


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

If I only used my rear brake I wouldnt make it around some switchbacks instead I would down the side of mountain somewhere.

Plans look good but keep it functional that bike is pretty light as is for a bigger travel bike.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

Take out the front wheel and just do a wheelie the whole time


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

haha. considering but not set yet. still tying a few things. Everyones riding style is different and obviously skill level too. And how hard you push. I only go 50-60% out there. Also where you ride matter too. 


finally got my 1x10 setup and remove my front brake. it is at 21.02#. Order a new set of Schwalbe Furious Fred tires, will be here next wk. Still waiting on the new carbon saddle, pedals, CF seat clamp and ESI grips. Some parts coming from asia so might a few wks. Will update the post after everything is done with pictures.


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Le Duke said:


> Why are you putting 2.0" tires on a 140mm travel bike?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Reminds me of people who put $15,000 wheels and tires on a car worth $1,200.


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

More like cheap off brand tires for a sports car


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

my main goal here is the get it under 20. Decided to just leave the front brake on.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

Yellowr6 said:


> I don't jump or do stunt. I just go out there and ride. My goal is to finish a trail without hurting myself and have some fun.


Yellowr6....the best advise I'd give you is, put the front brake back on the bike and learn to use it. You will ride faster AND safer with it. Also, at this stage, it would be better for you to spend your TIME riding more and leave your money in the bank, unless being able to say that my bike weighs less than 20 lbs is more important than safety to you. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just trying to be real.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Dan GSR said:


> More like cheap off brand tires for a sports car


You could offer advice instead of slamming someone new to the forum.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

thx phlegm but its cool. it is what it is. 

thx jackdz for the advice i am good where i am now. Im having fun and not taking any risk. 


to close out the argument, i will try everything before removing the brakes. Even if i don't use them. haha. 


thx all for your advices.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Btw. How do u guys feel about clips (shoes)? I know its faster and easier to climb with. I tried it a few times but just can't stick with it. What if u hit a bad bump and can't get off? I guess Im not at that level to use clips yet. Plus I fell a few times using clips so it's not my thing.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Woohoo. Carbon saddle just came in today from Asia. Look pretty nice considering China stuff and $40. Wth, where's my ESI grips from the US? I ordered them at the same time.


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## Acko (Feb 18, 2014)

Yellowr6 said:


> call me crazy, i don't use my front brake. Considering removing them. What y'all think? haha


Have you got your life insurance policy sorted?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

woohoo. Pedals, grips and tires came in today. will have everything setup by tomorrow. pics to come.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

If you're not pushing hard enough for tire grip and protection to matter you could get away with a lighter frame and fork. That's a pound each at least. Basically your frame/fork are intended for riding fast on rough trails and are overkill for your riding. However, if you think that kind of riding sounds fun you should consider a dropper post, grippy tires, and a 50-70mm stem. You'll have to settle for around 25lbs in that case even with a fancy build.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

stupid amazon sent me the wrong tire. They sent me the fast fred tires and not the furious ones. Need to return it for the right one. So pics will come next wk. 

Got the new pedals, seat and grips on. Put the front brake back on. But remove the rear brake to see how it feel tomorrow on the trail. Also switch the front disc to 160mm (stock is 180) and remove the mounting bracket. With this current setup, it is at 21.11#. 

Yea, i had a dropper post before but never really use it. So i went back on the Sworks carbon post to save a little weight. I had grippier tires and tried many combos before but the 2.0 is good enough for me to do the trails around here. Yea, my original setup was around 25#. I prefer low 20 since i love to climb and i try not to push too hard going down.


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

Yellowr6 said:


> stupid amazon sent me the wrong tire. They sent me the fast fred tires and not the furious ones. Need to return it for the right one. So pics will come next wk.
> 
> Got the new pedals, seat and grips on. Put the front brake back on. But remove the rear brake to see how it feel tomorrow on the trail. Also switch the front disc to 160mm (stock is 180) and remove the mounting bracket. With this current setup, it is at 21.11#.
> 
> Yea, i had a dropper post before but never really use it. So i went back on the Sworks carbon post to save a little weight. I had grippier tires and tried many combos before but the 2.0 is good enough for me to do the trails around here. Yea, my original setup was around 25#. I prefer low 20 since i love to climb and i try not to push too hard going down.


Sounds like you should be riding a cyclocross bike. Removing a brake... Wtf... Pm me if you're selling a dropper.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Why don't you sell off your bike and build up a rigid 29er? Faster going uphill, and a lot lighter. 


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

maybe one day i will custom build up a rigid 26er when i get older and bored. I tried a 29er HT but didn't like it. Maybe my skill is not there yet to fully enjoy it. Im only 5'2 so it was a little difficult to ride a 29er. Yea, i guess my goal is to rigid a FS 26er and I'm almost there. i loves how a FS ride and feel. Im going for a lightweight FS XC bike that can do everything. If I'm hitting the single tracks, just leave it alone and fly out there. If one day my skill is there to hit the rougher terrain, i'll just adjust the fork for more travel and put back on thicker tires. I love my sworks so i am truly happy with my current setup. Just waiting on tires and i could post up some pics for y'all. 


I have total control of my bike so i am happy with its current setup. I just can't wait to try out the new tires this weekend at north tahoe. If y'all ever visit lake tahoe in CA, y'all must try the Tahoe rim trail and the Flume trails.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Imagine the control you'd have with both brakes. You can go so much deeper into the corners before getting on the brakes, and you'll have light years more control while braking. You'd honestly be surprised at how much harder you can brake using both front and rear brakes.

How often does your rear wheel lock up when using only your rear brake? Find yourself skidding into the corners a lot?


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Good that you're experimenting, and keeping track of the results. I'm not surprised, given you can hammer on the rear brakes without risk, but hammering on the front alone can be a disaster.

Civic makes a great point that when used together, you'll likely be faster than your rear-only times.

Ever watch the UK car show Top Gear? The hosts can thrash around the track in a Pagani, but not get the most out of the car given their skill level. The true test is when the Stig (anonymous pro driver) takes it out, and you can really see how fast the car is.

Bit of a stretch analogy, but the point is if you improve with both brakes, you should really see the times drop.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

edit: Decided to leave the brakes alone and save weight elsewhere.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

bike almost finish.....


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

woohoo! 19.15 oz without front brake. I will try to break down each items in grams over the winter when i get my gram scale. 


2010 sworks stumpy fsr
Carbon SMALL frame
S140TA fork
AFR Brain Fade shock
Formula R1 Rear brake with 160mm disc / mouting bracket
SRAM XX rear Trigger
XX rear Derailleur
S-Works OS Carbon crank with XX1 30T chainring
Sram 1090 10 speed chain
sram 11-36 rear cassette 
sworks Carbon bar
Syntace F109 stem (claim 111 g)
sworks carbon seatpost
Schwalbe Furious Fred. 2.0. Tubeless. (claim 315 g each)
Rubar flat pedal (claim 250 g pair)
Chain Full carbon saddle (claim 100 g)
ESI grips (claim 60 g pair)
TI bottle holder
Roval carbon wheelset 26" with carbon hub
Mavic TI skewer


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Looks good man! Now repeat with a 29er. 😊


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

You have suspension looking to write checks that the tires can't cash. 


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## dan4jeepin (Apr 9, 2007)

Ditching a front brake to save a little weight is silly. One day when your single brake has an issue and fails you may end up hurting yourself or someone else when you crash into them.


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

Id snap pieces off that thing like crazy.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Thx phlegm! Ur large niner is impressive! Under 20 without using a leftie or cheating liked I did, great job!


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Here's the thing. 

I'm a bit of weight weenie myself. My 29er HT (race bike) is under 20lbs. I love a light bike as much as the next guy.

But, if you actually ride those tires and get anything close to full travel on that bike, you are going to hurt yourself. Those tires are not going to make you noticeably faster going uphill. They will, however, make you very slow going downhill.

Please, reconsider using those. I don't want to have to call a helicopter for you if we ever meet in the woods.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Cool duke. Thx for the heads up. I'm goun try it next wk and see how it feel. I'm not fast or anything.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

It does seem strange to see nothing attached to the left side of the bar.


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## HBSURFDAD (May 29, 2014)

If you really want to go as lite as possible and don't care about performance (you are very much trading lower weight for performance), try trail running. All you would have is the weight of the shoes. With you crushing your friends uphill at 50% effort you will be the hill climbing king with just a set of montrails on your feet!


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

yea surfdad. i seen some trail runners out there and its pretty hardcore too. One day, maybe i'll try trail running. Did the Kalalau trail in Kauai this past year. Its so amazing out there. Wish we could bike there or i would do it yearly too. If y'all never hike the kalalau, go try it. google the video, it will move you. Well, its a 11-12 miles backpack thing so you need to be a little fit.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

I ran in and out the Kalalau trail wearing just boardshorts ( talk about weight weenie) a couple years ago. Weirded out the tourists.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

awesome Lelandjt. U didn't camp? man, that place is liked a little paradise. Yea, if i was local, i would run it at least once per month.


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

yellowr6, did you consider ditching the brain shock & fit a convention shock? I'm pretty sure the weight saved would allow you to run both brakes & still keep the current low weight.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Yellowr6 said:


> awesome Lelandjt. U didn't camp? man, that place is liked a little paradise. Yea, if i was local, i would run it at least once per month.


Just jogged in and out cuz my girl was hanging out at the beach by the parking lot. I live on Maui and go to Kauai sometimes to visit friends and take the girlfriend on a little trip.
I like the idea about ditching the Brain. You could get one of those DT carbon shocks or the X Fusion little lightweight shock.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Geez, I don't know about dropping the brain. You don't buy an SWorks stumpy to not run the brain.

I wonder how much the brain cylinder and hose weighs tho.


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## HBSURFDAD (May 29, 2014)

Phlegm,

This is not about design or application, this is about making something as lite as possible without thought to safety or performance. 

After we try to make everything as lite as possible can we try for colors next? I want to trade my brakes for something green or blue...............


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## PauLCa916 (Jul 1, 2013)

Seems like a waste of a bike to me.
I would just buy a Chinese Carbon frame and build it up.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

scant said:


> yellowr6, did you consider ditching the brain shock & fit a convention shock? I'm pretty sure the weight saved would allow you to run both brakes & still keep the current low weight.


haha. u guys got me thinking. So i got a hold of this Fox RP23. Adaptive Logic with AUTOSAG and boost Valve, kashima coating, reb and separate climbing setting and custom 3-position low-speed comp adj. 197x51mm.

Got bored today and work on it. here's the update and weight. I decided to just put the front brake back on and work around it. And i won't kill myself out there. Im happy with 20.05 oz

Yea, went to ride the Tahoe rim trail and flume trail this past weekend. Yea, i needed my front brake there and put on my original sworks tires. Had a blast.

i'll give it a try maybe this weekend with the Furious Fred and RP23. here's current pics of the bike new setup.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

phlegm said:


> Geez, I don't know about dropping the brain. You don't buy an SWorks stumpy to not run the brain.
> 
> I wonder how much the brain cylinder and hose weighs tho.


i don't have a gram scale yet. But i could tell you in oz.

With my front brake on and the brain shock. Bike weight in at 20.14 oz.
with my front brake on and the RP23, bike weight in at 20.05 oz.

so i saved 9 oz for removing the brain.

Edit. According to the fox site. The rp23 weight in at 8 oz ish. So the stock shock with brain is about 17 oz or 1.01 oz.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Lelandjt said:


> Just jogged in and out cuz my girl was hanging out at the beach by the parking lot. I live on Maui and go to Kauai sometimes to visit friends and take the girlfriend on a little trip.
> I like the idea about ditching the Brain. You could get one of those DT carbon shocks or the X Fusion little lightweight shock.


hey Lelandjt. I will be in maui at the end of the month with my lady. 3-4 days. we Doing the Haleakala Crater early morning. Is it true you can take a tour up there and ride a bicycle down?

and any good trails out there? thx man!


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

btw, anyone here can explain to me what is a evo link? increase the travel by a tap?


thx!


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

finally pick up a Feedback gram scale. i dissemble most of the parts off the frame and weight it with pics. Total is 9192 grams. My goal is under 9071 grams or 19.998 lbs. I need to cut down 121 grams. I just order a new set of rotors from taiwan. It will saved me 30 grams. And i order a few TI bolts for my calipers. That will also saved me 6 grams. With those new parts, i will get closer to 9071 grams. I'm also looking into getting a KCNC rear mount bracket too but need to find the right size. Theres a few other small stuff I'm looking at too. I will hit my goal of under 20#! nothing will stop me now. Parts coming from Asia so it will take a few wks. 


pics to come. I broke down everything besides the frame with the rear shifter, rear derailleur and crankset.


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## scant (Jan 5, 2004)

Yellowr6 said:


> haha. u guys got me thinking. So i got a hold of this Fox RP23. Adaptive Logic with AUTOSAG and boost Valve, kashima coating, reb and separate climbing setting and custom 3-position low-speed comp adj. 197x51mm.
> 
> Got bored today and work on it. here's the update and weight. I decided to just put the front brake back on and work around it. And i won't kill myself out there. Im happy with 20.05 oz
> .


I'm glad you found a compromise you're happy with. I've held a brain shock before & knew it was pretty heavy


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

scant said:


> I'm glad you found a compromise you're happy with. I've held a brain shock before & knew it was pretty heavy


What do u ride currently? How's ur setup?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

i order a few more cheap things from china. 

new disc will save me -30 gram
TI bolts: -6g
CF holder: -18g
TI skewer: -39g
new pedal: -72

total saved: -165g. Total spent on these parts : $100. 


i should be under 20# after these new parts. 


if these parts can't get it to my goal, last resort is to upgrade my sworks bar to a Easton E90 bar. My sworks bar is 171g. The easton one is 135g. but cost $120 shipped from ebay.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

here's the breakdown:

1. 10M carbon frame with XX carbon rear trigger, XX rear derailleur, SWORKS OS carbon crank with XX1 30T chain ring:

2769 g

2. S140TA fork : 1608g
3. Campy headset: 66g
4. spacers/cap/TI bolt: 12g
5. RP23 shock w/mount: 328g
6. Roval carbon front rim/hub: 646g
7. Roval rear rear rim/hub: 772g
8. valve stem x2: 11g
9. Furious Fred Front tire 26x2.0: 334g
10. Furious Fred rear tire 26x2.0: 323g
11. XX cassette 10 sp 11-36T: 210g
12. Mavic Front skewer: 42g
13. Mavic rear skewer: 45g
14: formula R1 front brakeset: 244g
15. Formula R1 rear brakeset: 258g
16. rear mount w/TI bolts x2: 25g
17. R1 front disc: 87g
18. XX rear disc: 95g
19. front caliper bolts: 22g
20. rear caliper TI bolts: 16g
21. TI rotor bolts x12: 15g
22. SRAM PC-1090 chain: 254g
23. Syntace F109 stem: 102g
24. Sworks carbon bar: 171g
25. ESI grips w/caps: 65g
26. Sworks carbon seatpost: 180g
27. Full Carbon seat: 116g
28. Seat clamp: 19g
29. Rubar pedals: 242g
30. Bottle holder w/TI bolts: 50g
31.Tubeless sealant 3oz: 80g 


Feedback scale: 9192g or 20.30#


new parts coming in:

Gatorbrake ARIES Stainless RED disc: 76/76 (-30g)
Front TI caliper bolts x2 w/spacers: 16 (-6g)
CF bottle: 26 (-18)
TI Skeller: 48 (-39)
TI Pedals: 170 (-72)

*final ext: 9027 (19.90)


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

here's pics. open to suggestion to save weight. thx.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

more pics.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Hey, thx for all the pics & weights. I know it takes a lot of time, but it's a great reference.

Wow, that one FF tire at 323g is crazy low - maybe a record of some kind.

Have some random ideas if you still can't hit sub-20 lbs after the latest parts come in. Some are tiny changes:

-lots of grammage to be saved on both the seatpost and bars - potentially 140g between the 2 of them, but it will cost you
-drop the bottle cage, or buy a side-load carbon one for half the weight or less
-you can get skewers from Tune that are less than 20g each, so 25g there each
-looks like you have a brake adapter there, 25g. You might be able to use the rotor size natively designed for your frame (140mm rear?), and drop the adapter, and use a smaller and lighter rotor at the same time.
-move to Lizardskins DSP grips for half the weight

...and I realize you have new pedals on the way, etc.

Still some good weight to be lost.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

phlegm said:


> Wow, that one FF tire at 323g is crazy low - maybe a record of some kind.


Just so you don't accuse me of brain damage, I thought that was a 29er tire, which are claimed at 360g. 323g would have been awesome, almost to the point of being dangerous. 

The 26-inch versions are claimed by Schwalbe at 315g, so 323 is actually pretty good.

For whatever reason, there is a fair amount of variance with tire manufacturing.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

phlegm said:


> Hey, thx for all the pics & weights. I know it takes a lot of time, but it's a great reference.
> 
> Wow, that one FF tire at 323g is crazy low - maybe a record of some kind.
> 
> ...


-Yea. Those are 26". 323 is dangerous low. Went out today and the back wheel keep hopping under heavy braking into the turn. 
-The Easton bar is my next wish list. I'll save 36g
-order a CF holder From China. Will save 16g
-order TI skewer to saved -39g
-I don't think I could run with no adapter.
-too bad I didn't know about the DSP. I'll do it if I'm short a few gram.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

hey phlegm,

was following ur posting on ur 2013 HT. I saw that tried to use the less amt of sealant for ur tubeless so got me thinking. I used about 2 oz per wheel and thats a lot. Did you use liked 0.5 oz? or was it 1 oz each? i decided to loose the air and redo it. i release half of the sealant and pump the tire up. Its holding up so saved around 45g for both wheel. 

also, WTH, i order a new set of DSP grip. I'll transfer my ESI to my bro's bike. Its only $20 for the DSP. not too much.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yellowr6 said:


> hey phlegm,
> 
> was following ur posting on ur 2013 HT. I saw that tried to use the less amt of sealant for ur tubeless so got me thinking. I used about 2 oz per wheel and thats a lot. Did you use liked 0.5 oz? or was it 1 oz each? i decided to loose the air and redo it. i release half of the sealant and pump the tire up. Its holding up so saved around 45g for both wheel.
> 
> also, WTH, i order a new set of DSP grip. I'll transfer my ESI to my bro's bike. Its only $25 for the DSP. not too much.


I managed to get by with half a scoop of Stans in a 29x2.1 tire. For a smaller volume 26 inch tire that should easily work. Note that you definitely want to carry a spare tube - you should always carry one anyway.

Good luck getting those ESI grips off the bars. . I usually have to cut them.


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## Duckman (Jan 12, 2004)

Ever tried the air compressor routine for those ESI grips? I've yet to have any issues with any grips, going on or off(I don't use lockons).


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Nope. No issue removing the esi. I had to remove it to weight it. I used water in the beginning to install them and had to remove them a few times to install my brakes so I guess it's not tight on.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Added: 

New DSP: 27g
Esi: 65. 


new disc will save me -30 gram
TI bolts: -6g
CF holder: -18g
TI skewer: -39g
new pedal: -72g
DSP : -38g

total saved: -203g. Total spent on these parts : $120


Looking at cutting 7 oz total. Or almost 0.4 lbs. yea, I'm good now. 


Final ext: 19.13 oz or 19.80 lbs.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*Done?*

Are you actually saying that you're done?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

phlegm said:


> Are you actually saying that you're done? [/QUOTE
> 
> Haha. U got me. Maybe the easton bar and a lighter post. Xmas is Comin up.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

never stop. 


just order more TI bolts for my stem, brake clamp and a new seat clamp weighting 9g. Also decided to change out my black shifting cable to RED. A little color custom. Will post pics when I'm done. Cant wait.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

DSP grips. 26g


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Yellowr6 said:


> DSP grips. 26g


I wonder what the adhesive tape adds to them? Maybe 2g?


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

phlegm said:


> I wonder what the adhesive tape adds to them? Maybe 2g?


yea, probably 2g so 28g total. Too late to weight them, already on the bar. Love the DSP over the ESI anyday.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

a few new parts are in:

1. RED seat clamp: 11g
2. 4x TI brake clamp bolts: 6g
3. RED cap with TI bolt: 12g
4. 4x TI caliper bolts: 15g per set


Adjusted weight: 9154g or 20.2# or 20.03 oz. 


still waiting on new RED disc, CF bottle holder, TI skewers, RED pedals.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

new pedals. Bike now at even 20#. Order a new RED/blk KMC chain today just to match my color scheme. 

was thinking about getting a new 3k carbon bar from china that weights 125g for $25 shipped. My sworks is 171g. But somehow i can't pull the trigger. I already got under my goal, figure i trust my sworks UD bar over the china stuff and a handlebar is pretty important.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

new discs and skewer. Total now is 9021 grams. PT scale showing 19.15 oz. Almost done.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

interesting. Put on RED Jaywire rear shifting cable and saved 2 oz. I guess my original ones wasn't Jaywire. Maybe the original owner did a service on it and replaced them with the cheap ones. 

Now weight 19.13 oz. Just waiting on a few TI bolts and a new chain and Im really done.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

here's the stem with TI bolts. saved 6g.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

new chain and CF holder. Finish built.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

final numbers:

2010 sworks SJ FSR

1. 10M carbon frame with XX carbon rear trigger, XX rear derailleur, SWORKS OS carbon crank with XX1 30T chain ring: 

2723g

2. S140TA fork : 1608g
3. Campy headset: 70g
4. spacers/cap/TI bolt: 12g
5. RP23 shock w/mount: 328g
6. Roval carbon front rim/hub: 646g
7. Roval rear rear rim/hub: 772g
8. valve stem x2: 11g
9. Furious Fred Front tire 26x2.0: 334g
10. Furious Fred rear tire 26x2.0: 323g
11. XX cassette 10 sp 11-36T: 210g
12. TI Front skewer: 23g
13. TI rear skewer: 26g
14: formula R1 front brakeset: 241g
15. Formula R1 rear brakeset: 255g
16. rear mount w/TI bolts x2: 25g
17. Gator front disc: 78g
18. Gator rear disc: 78g
19. front caliper TI bolts: 15g
20. rear caliper TI bolts: 15g
21. TI rotor bolts x12: 15g
22. KMC X2.0 red/blk chain: 235g
23. Syntace F109 stem: 96g
24. Sworks carbon bar: 171g
25. DSP grips w/caps: 28g
26. Sworks carbon seatpost: 180g
27. Full Carbon seat: 116g
28. Seat clamp: 19g
29. aest pedals: 168
30. CF Bottle holder w/TI bolts: 38g
31.Tubeless sealant: 80g


Total gram: 8956g or 19.74 lbs

(19.11 oz)


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Yellowr6 said:


> hey Lelandjt. I will be in maui at the end of the month with my lady. 3-4 days. we Doing the Haleakala Crater early morning. Is it true you can take a tour up there and ride a bicycle down?
> 
> and any good trails out there? thx man!


Sorry. I missed this post when you made it. Talk to Aaron who owns Krank Cycles (808) 572-2299. Tell him Leland sent you. It's a shop in Makawao which is halfway up the road going up the volcano. He has rental bikes and all the info on trails. There's a trail from the top that comes halfway down that people shuttle and a trail network area just above Makawao good for doing loops.


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## Lelandjt (Feb 22, 2008)

Your R1 brakes have the FCS adjusters. I added those to my sets of Formula brakes and was surprised how heavy they were. I didn't weight them but they felt like chunks of steel. I bet you'd be happy with the default feel of the brakes if you remove them. It's really easy. Unscrew the 8mm hollow bolt that holds the hose into the adjuster. Then unscrew the adjuster from the lever. Now screw the bolt into the lever. If you do it quickly and carefully you might not even have to bleed the brakes.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

got my hands on a set of XX brakeset from my buddy's bike he's selling. He offer them to me for my R1s. So we weight them. Can't believe my R1s are about 500g total and his XX total is 350g. So i can save 4 oz from switching. Why not, right. Also, his XX lines are a bit long. Going to my LBS next wk and see what can my guy do to help. He mention to me before to shorten the rear line to get it thru the frame to have a cleaner look and also save a little weight. Maybe i can cut more than 150g from my brake set. 

yea, after the switch, i am looking at 19.7 oz. Maybe I can get it under 19 now. Next thing is the fork. Will be a tough one to decide on. Currently I'm using the stock S140TA but have it set on 115mm travel. Total weight is 1600g. can someone please point me to the right direction? i am looking for a fork around 1300g and about 120mm travel. Probably don't need a brain anymore since I'm running a RP23 shock right now. Also, i need to make sure it will fit my bike. How do you tell? sorry, i have no clue about suspension. A month ago, i had no clue about XC, AM and travel and tires size. haha. Yea, current setup is more a XC bike but one day, i want the option to go AM. 


or, should i just leave it alone? how can i save 7 more oz or 200 grams? 



thx.


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## bridgestone14 (Mar 22, 2005)

You can get a rock shox sid from pricepoint that is between 1300 and 1400 grams in a 120mm. It will be easier to find a fork with a 15 mm through axle, I am assuming that you can swap the end caps on your wheelset and set them up to take a 15mm through axle, but I am not positive. You will need a tapered steertube, meaning that the top of the steer tube has an 1 1/8 diameter and the bottom has a 1 1/5 " diameter. This is to match the tapered head tube on your frame. You could swap out the headset and get a straight 1 1/8th steer tube fork but that is probably more trouble then it is worth. 
A rock shox revelation will get you some more travel, but will only save you a 100grams or so. 
You can also get a fox 32 float in 120mm that is close to 1300grams. Make sure you get the factory CTD version. Foxracingshox.com It also comes in a tapered steer tube and a quick release drop out.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

*..*



bridgestone14 said:


> You can get a rock shox sid from pricepoint that is between 1300 and 1400 grams in a 120mm. It will be easier to find a fork with a 15 mm through axle, I am assuming that you can swap the end caps on your wheelset and set them up to take a 15mm through axle, but I am not positive. You will need a tapered steertube, meaning that the top of the steer tube has an 1 1/8 diameter and the bottom has a 1 1/5 " diameter. This is to match the tapered head tube on your frame. You could swap out the headset and get a straight 1 1/8th steer tube fork but that is probably more trouble then it is worth.
> A rock shox revelation will get you some more travel, but will only save you a 100grams or so.
> You can also get a fox 32 float in 120mm that is close to 1300grams. Make sure you get the factory CTD version. Foxracingshox.com It also comes in a tapered steer tube and a quick release drop out.


Believe me, I'd love to find a 1300g fork (even with 95mm travel, let alone the 120mm), but that number seems pretty low to me.

For example, my scale shows something like 1556g for a 2014 SID WC, although the brain surely adds some weight.

Are you sure of your numbers?


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## bridgestone14 (Mar 22, 2005)

I don't weigh a lot of parts, so I was just pulling the weights off of the website. Googling sid weight suggests that they might be shooting a little low. I was pretty surprised that the 32 fox float at 120mm comes in at 1350grams. Bike 26 Forks | FOX
But no, I haven't weighed these forks.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Also, I'm assuming 29er, which is stupid. 26 should drop some weight, although still skeptical.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

thx guys. I'll deal with my brakes first and scope around ebay and craigs. i'll c what i can find for a good deal. might just stay with my stock one for now. Next season project.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

what u guys think about the Rock shox SID world cup forks? compared to the Fox float 32. 

I'm looking at a SID WC, weighting in around 1350g for a 26". 


can someone tell me whats the difference from the:

SID
SID WC
SID WC XX

weight vs performance. thx.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Yellowr6 said:


> what u guys think about the Rock shox SID world cup forks? compared to the Fox float 32.
> 
> I'm looking at a SID WC, weighting in around 1350g for a 26".
> 
> ...


So, you've put Furious Freds on this bike.

You've traded your R1s (great brakes) for XXs (mediocre at best).

Now you're going to put a 100mm fork on a bike that is supposed to use a 140mm fork? You know you are going to very seriously compromise the geometry of what is already a seriously compromised machine, right?


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## Back2MTB (Jun 4, 2014)

Le Duke said:


> So, you've put Furious Freds on this bike.
> 
> You've traded your R1s (great brakes) for XXs (mediocre at best).
> 
> Now you're going to put a 100mm fork on a bike that is supposed to use a 140mm fork? You know you are going to very seriously compromise the geometry of what is already a seriously compromised machine, right?


It doesn't seem like the bike is for riding, just weighing and photo sessions.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Le Duke said:


> So, you've put Furious Freds on this bike.
> 
> You've traded your R1s (great brakes) for XXs (mediocre at best).
> 
> Now you're going to put a 100mm fork on a bike that is supposed to use a 140mm fork? You know you are going to very seriously compromise the geometry of what is already a seriously compromised machine, right?


From day one, my priority is weight. I heard so much about the FF, i just needed to try and i do love the speed. Don't mean my next set will be FF, depend on how i feel and where we go riding.

yea, i got this stumpy for a very good deal. I should of got a epic instead but too late. I didn't know what i know now. Im going to work with what i have now. Next bike will be a epic for sure.

The stock brakes on this bike is the XXs. Yea, the R1s does feel better than the XX. But brakes is brakes. Both will stop you. Again, i see weight first and both brakes are not too far apart. See it this way, i have both now instead of just one. haha.

I am clueless about suspension so I'm still learning. The stock fork support 115mm to 140. I have it set on 115. So, what will 100mm do to the bike geometry? but yea, u got me thinking twice now so maybe i should just leave it alone or how about a 120mm travel fork?

all this to me is just trial and error. Im still learning and many more things to learn. I can't change the frame but everything else can be change. Tire sizes can be switch out within minutes, so can brakes and suspension.

thx for the advice.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Back2MTB said:


> It doesn't seem like the bike is for riding, just weighing and photo sessions.


haha. is this a weight weenies forum or not.

i tried to ride once per wk. So far, every wk i tried something different.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Back2MTB said:


> It doesn't seem like the bike is for riding, just weighing and photo sessions.


Why are you visiting the WW forum?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Yellowr6 said:


> From day one, my priority is weight. I heard so much about the FF, i just needed to try and i do love the speed. Don't mean my next set will be FF, depend on how i feel and where we go riding.
> 
> yea, i got this stumpy for a very good deal. I should of got a epic instead but too late. I didn't know what i know now. Im going to work with what i have now. Next bike will be a epic for sure.
> 
> ...


Well, XXs fail a lot more often than R1s. XXs have poor modulation compared to R1s or XTR. XXs are not as powerful as those two, either.

FFs are a great tire for crushed limestone, rails-to-trails paths. For actual mountain biking, you WILL be faster, both up and down, on a tire with actual tread on it, and a casing that will support it. Rocket Rons, and Conti Race King SuperSonic 2.2s, for example, will be significantly faster on a mountain bike trail, while only weighing 300g more for the set.

With switching from a 140mm fork to a 100mm fork, you're probably changing the HTA by about 4 degrees, which is a pretty significant difference. That's going from mountain bike to a road bike. Again, if you're just riding on paved or crushed limestone bike paths, that's fine, but if you're actually riding offroad, the steep HTA, in combination with the VERY unbalanced suspension capabilities, are going to lead to some problems.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Le Duke said:


> Well, XXs fail a lot more often than R1s. XXs have poor modulation compared to R1s or XTR. XXs are not as powerful as those two, either.
> 
> FFs are a great tire for crushed limestone, rails-to-trails paths. For actual mountain biking, you WILL be faster, both up and down, on a tire with actual tread on it, and a casing that will support it. Rocket Rons, and Conti Race King SuperSonic 2.2s, for example, will be significantly faster on a mountain bike trail, while only weighing 300g more for the set.
> 
> With switching from a 140mm fork to a 100mm fork, you're probably changing the HTA by about 4 degrees, which is a pretty significant difference. That's going from mountain bike to a road bike. Again, if you're just riding on paved or crushed limestone bike paths, that's fine, but if you're actually riding offroad, the steep HTA, in combination with the VERY unbalanced suspension capabilities, are going to lead to some problems.


yea, still not set on the XX yet. I'm giving it a full go today on the XX and make a final decision. Maybe i will look into the newer R1s. The carbon ones i saw somewhere. 500g for brakeset seem a bit high.

I'll look into the Rocket Rons for my next set. Since my bike is in the mid 19s, i can afford adding on another 300g. I want to improve my cornering technique and i don't think the FF will be smart to practice on. Lol. but if you can corner with the FF, you can corner with any tires. Yea, was watching some cornering technique video and all this time, I'm doing it wrong. My background riding is from a motorcycle and u lean into the corner with the bike. I guess with MTN biking, its opposite. U push away from the bike. I'm going to give it a try today.

you have a very good point on the HTA. i will look into it. how about 120mm travel? well, if I'm going to try different tires and continue to improve my skills, eventually my current fork will come in handy.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

new brakes and new chain. shorten the lines as much as possible. didn't really help. New weight: 19.07 oz or 8819 grams. or 19.44 lbs.


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## CuddlyToast (Oct 30, 2013)

Le Duke is right.

He is making some seriously valid points. I would avoid a fork swap, putting a 100mm would make it so twitchy, it would seriously affect your riding. The whole bike would feel like you are leaned forward, as the front end would be dropped so much. Even a 120 mm fork will handle poorly. Stick with the fork length. There are some ridiculously light options from DT Swiss, if you want to go that route. 

Also, i wholly recommend the rocket ron for your next tire. Those furious freds have almost no side knob, and will incredibly difficult to teach you the feeling of tires hooking up when leaned over.

I see that you got the xx's. While their weight is alluring, i have seen some serious injuries caused from master cylinder failures. I would still recommend in the long run to look into the formulas, but try out the xx's. If they work for you, that's awesome, but there is a reason people are trying to sway you away from them.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

CuddlyToast said:


> Le Duke is right.
> 
> He is making some seriously valid points. I would avoid a fork swap, putting a 100mm would make it so twitchy, it would seriously affect your riding. The whole bike would feel like you are leaned forward, as the front end would be dropped so much. Even a 120 mm fork will handle poorly. Stick with the fork length. There are some ridiculously light options from DT Swiss, if you want to go that route.
> 
> ...


thx guys. man, what i don't understand is why the Stock S140TA give u an option of 115mm travel and 140? if the frame is built for 140, why specialized gives u two option. Yea, for sure 100mm won't work. u would think 120 is ok with the stock fork being 115-140.

Yea, i can't wait to try the rocket ron. These FF is only for speed, not sure if i can trust it completely into a turn at high speed.

I haven't had any issues with these XXs yet, crossing my fingers. But i been hearing only bad things about them. I still have the R1s but it is the older model i guess. i will look into getting the newer R1s model and give it a try.

thx again guys!


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## moefosho (Apr 30, 2013)

The fork travel can be dropped but that is only intended for steep long climbs. For all other riding, it should be at 140mm.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Yellowr6 said:


> thx guys. man, what i don't understand is why the Stock S140TA give u an option of 115mm travel and 140? if the frame is built for 140, why specialized gives u two option. Yea, for sure 100mm won't work. u would think 120 is ok with the stock fork being 115-140.
> 
> thx again guys!


Investigate "Fox Talas" and "Rockshox Dual Position".

Lower the front end for climbs, raise it back up for descents.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Cool guys. I'll do more research.


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

its been a fun journey guys, i am finally done with this bike. Thx all for ur advices and tips. i got a new used Rockshox SID 120 RLT fork, a newer model used R1 brakeset with carbon levers and a new 3k full carbon bar from china (620mm) compared to the stock 660mm. My arm is short so the 620mm feel so much better. I came up with two setup, a 18.15 oz XC ish bike and a 20# Trail bike. I will be testing out this winter and see which setup is more fun. I liked the climb, the speed but also the DH and cornering. here's the new parts:


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

Here's the XC ish setup:

1. 10M carbon frame with XX carbon rear trigger, XX rear derailleur, SWORKS OS carbon crank with XX1 30T chain ring: 2723g
2. Rockshox SID 120 RLT fork: 1438g
3. Campy headset: 70g
4. spacers/cap/TI bolt: 12g
5. RP23 shock: 328g
6. Roval carbon front rim/hub: 646g
7. Roval rear rear rim/hub: 772g
8. valve stem x2: 11g
9. Furious Fred Front tire 26x2.0: 334g
10. Furious Fred rear tire 26x2.0: 323g
11. XX cassette 10 sp 11-36T: 210g
12. TI Front skewer: 23g
13. TI rear skewer: 26g
14: R1 front brakeset: 172g
15. R1 rear brakeset: 184g
16. rear mount w/TI bolts x2: 25g
17. Gator front disc: 78g
18. Gator rear disc: 95g
19. front caliper TI bolts: 14g
20. rear caliper TI bolts: 14g
21. TI rotor bolts x12: 15g
22. KMC chain: 234g
23. Syntace F109 stem: 96g
24. 3k full carbon bar: 125g
25. Lizardskin DSP grips w/caps: 27g
26. Sworks carbon seatpost: 180g
27. Full Carbon seat: 116g
28. Seat clamp: 19g
29. aest pedals: 168g
30. Red cage w/TI bolts: 50g
31.Tubeless sealant: 70g

Total gram: 8598g or 18.95 lbs

(18.15 oz)


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## Yellowr6 (Mar 30, 2011)

here's the 20# Trail setup with:

S140TA fork: 1608g
Rocket Ron 2.25: 479g
Racing Ralph 2.10: 463g


total: 9053g


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