# 334



## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Guys,

without your insterest and support it would be absolutely no reason to release new version of popular 3UP engine 

but, you've made alot to make it happen. So, here you're.

It's not just a next version. I took one year to completely rework it. That's why I decided to get rid of the leading letter "L". So now all my engines will have just numerical codes.

So, let's say hello to 334!










There're too many chnages to list all here, so you're welcome to visit my blog with tech details etc


And, yes, you can upgrade. In terms of sizes/electrical parameters it's compatible with L333.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Good news Serge :thumbsup:
I had a look on your site but could only see XP-G options..will there be XT-E and XP-E options available?


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

All the new 334 features look fantastic. Will XT-E be available?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Good news Serge :thumbsup:
> I had a look on your site but could only see XP-G options..will there be XT-E and XP-E options available?


XP-E, XT-E (XP-E HEW), Nichia and Samsung are also possible as a "custom" (you should see it in the list). I'll be increasing the list of possible configuration options.

Also you can shoose now from 4 max. power levels (15W, 10W, 6.5W and 4W).

New version features a better efficiency so they're about 1W less with the same LED current as L333


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## borrower (Feb 26, 2011)

Another impressive upgrade. Congrats. (Still loving my 332 and 333 builds. Will have to find a flimsy excuse to get a 334 one of these days.)


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Fantastic news about the battery options. It'll be great to be able to use both my 1S and 2S battery packs in the same light! 

I'm waiting for beamshots for the XT-E, if they will be any different than the XP-E HEW.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

CREE just renamed the product, so XT-E is just a new name of XP-E HEW.
I have XP-E HEW beamshots in my gallery (I also posted them on mtbr)

I have XP-E HEW R5 cool white (139lm at 350ma).


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> CREE just renamed the product, so XT-E is just a new name of XP-E HEW.
> I have XP-E HEW beamshots in my gallery (I also posted them on mtbr)
> 
> I have XP-E HEW R5 cool white (139lm at 350ma).


Thanks Quazzle. I have beamshots of the XP-E and XP-E HEW L333 here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/8169677-post60.html

There has been much talk about the XT-E being a great thrower, but the HEW version of L333 (Which is XT-E) didn't deliver the throw of the original XP-E.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

yes, XT-E (and XP-E HEW) use "remote phosphor" technology and pyramid-structure die which produce more "side" light. The die size is still 1mm x 1mm (as with regular XP-E) but due to remote phosphor which covers all led area the actiual emissive surface is much larger and closer to XP-G. In terms of light dissipation with clear 10mm optics XT-E stands somewhat in the middle between XP-G and XP-E (XT-E's produce a higher light intensity in the hotspot vs XP-Gs)


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## klynk (Apr 18, 2010)

Hell, gotta buy a new tripple - that would be fun.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

XT-E and XP-E HEW may share some of the same technology, but I don't believe they are the exact same LED with a name change. At least it doesn't look like it from the spec sheets. I may be missing something here, so I could be wrong.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I just used the product selector tool..different figures for the XT-E vs the XP-E HEW in the S2 bin (dam i ordered R5!:madman..
Whats also interesting is the comparison against the XM-L at lower current.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I noticed some difference too, so it's worth testing in the lab.

May be it's the same story as with early XP-Gs which were originally rated at 1A max and later on CREE updated just the datasheet not the product.

(by the way XP-E HEW and XT-E are not available with S2. the max bin is still R5 according to the datasheet at cree.com)


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## ecthelion (May 6, 2007)

ThinkBike said:


> XT-E and XP-E HEW may share some of the same technology, but I don't believe they are the exact same LED with a name change. At least it doesn't look like it from the spec sheets. I may be missing something here, so I could be wrong.


Based on all the data sheets I can get from Cree, I'm pretty sure you are correct. XT-E is a different product than XP-E HEW. It has a 5 degree narrower viewing angle, is binned at much higher temperatures, and is rated for up to 1500 mA. Supposedly based on newer semiconducting SiC material.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

so let's see how it works with real 10mm optics. Anyone had XT-E's in hands?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

quazzle said:


> I noticed some difference too, so it's worth testing in the lab.
> 
> May be it's the same story as with early XP-Gs which were originally rated at 1A max and later on CREE updated just the datasheet not the product.
> 
> (by the way XP-E HEW and XT-E are not available with S2. the max bin is still R5 according to the datasheet at cree.com)


Well, if you need a tester to compare beamshots of an XT-E R5...


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## The Understater (May 6, 2007)

Quazzle, can you just confirm please whether the 334 will track both Li-ion and Li-po or only Li-ion battery packs.

Thanks,
Blair.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I don't use *LiFes* because they suck but I can set up the monitor for it, no problem (it will be a custom engine).

By default the system supports LiIon/LiPo nominal cutoffs with automatic cell count detection (just plug-and-play)


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, are you confusing Lipo with LiFePO4? 

I believe when bshallard says "Lipo" he is referring to the Lithium Ion battery packs frequently used by RC hobbyists. Same voltage range, same Lithium Ion technology as the 18650 Lithium Ion cells and usually less expensive.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Must admit i was confused by this..
As long as the voltage range is the same, it cant be a problem can it?

2s 18650 7.4v
2s lipo 7.4v


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> Quazzle, are you confusing Lipo with LiFePO4?


ahhh, sorry, yes, I meant LiFe of course. As the LiIon/LiPO - they share mostly the same thresholds so it will work just out of the box.

Basically just two thresholds make sense (they're all explained in the datasheet but i'll repeat here)

3.2V per cell - reduce the output to 10% (not compulsory)
3.0V per cell - switch the light off (button is locked)

Also there's overvoltage check - 4.4V per cell. The battery is not recognized as a valid LiPo/LiIon if it exceeds 4.4V per cell.

PS. I use 3P2S flat-cells pack on my MTB (custom build from factory LiPos)


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

anybody notice the color shift, to the side on the XP-E ?
also on the XP-G shot, it seams to have more detail on the ground.
ether focus was a little different, or the XP-G was mounted a little lower.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

rschultz101 said:


> anybody notice the color shift, to the side on the XP-E ?
> also on the XP-G shot, it seams to have more detail on the ground.
> ether focus was a little different, or the XP-G was mounted a little lower.


it's NOT just XPE, it's XPE HEW (sounds similar but CREE confusing us as it's completely another product). Regulaer XPEs provide a very nice throw:










when mixed with floody XPGs we're getting almost ideal outdoor light:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

no updates about the engine, just new visual effect (doesn't work in IE7,8 and all mozillas/firefox)

Lux-RC Labs - Welcome

(hint: just sit staring at the black flashlight photo)


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

quazzle said:


> no updates about the engine, just new visual effect (doesn't work in IE7,8 and all mozillas/firefox)
> 
> Lux-RC Labs - Welcome
> 
> (hint: just sit staring at the black flashlight photo)


Thats "handy" 
Quazzle any chance you can point in the right direction on how you created your blog please?
I like the way your comments are posted as a speech bubble..not seen that before.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Goldigger said:


> Quazzle any chance you can point in the right direction on how you created your blog please? I like the way your comments are posted as a speech bubble..not seen that before.


thanks 

just php coding, I did it from scratch on last NY holidays but it's not ideal. I hate the way it resizes the bubbles and also I hate that only 6 answers are allowed (no horizontal scrolling). I'm redoing the site engine now (you can see the test prototype here), I'm working on the menu structure now but then I'll updrade the comments to make it more fit for interest discussions (with hot topics, last discussed etc)


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, is it possible to program the Master unit so the the power to the Slave unit was turned Off/On after a certain number of clicks? 

In two light systems, this would be one way to choose which beam gets used, especially when one uses a narrow optic and the other a wide or elliptical optic.

You had shown a beam shot of a two light engine unit using both narrow and elliptical optics that was very nice. I built a unit just like that and there were certain times that really only needed one of the beams. When I ride in the city, I really only need the elliptical, when I'm out on the trail again, I'd use both of them.

I guess I could solve my own problem by building a two engine light with each engine being a Master unit and having two remote switches to control each engine, but I'm still wondering of it's possible to have the master control unit turn off the power to the slave unit.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

I'd recommed using two masters for that. Yes, it's about $10 more but it's better using two control buttons with simple instant single-click UI. Using just one with multiple-clicks and facny UI I think is not safe for an MTB rider on a track. 

Let's see what guys say.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

quazzle said:


> no updates about the engine, just new visual effect (doesn't work in IE7,8 and all mozillas/firefox)
> Lux-RC Labs - Welcome
> (hint: just sit staring at the black flashlight photo)


I hadn't noticed that before, it's a good effect. You may have a spelling mistake, using "Restoked" instead of "Restocked", but you might mean it as a play on words.

I have one of the new FL33s with 2 18650 batteries and would like to know if I can turn off the standby flash for by the light head and the switch. I see I can turn it off for the light head by using the alternative functions, but then the switch flashes.

Also, my Sony non-protected batteries are too short to work. Do you have any that recommend?

Tim


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Wombat said:


> I have one of the new FL33s with 2 18650 batteries and would like to know if I can turn off the standby flash for by the light head and the switch. I see I can turn it off for the light head by using the alternative functions, but then the switch flashes.
> 
> Also, my Sony non-protected batteries are too short to work. Do you have any that recommend?
> 
> Tim


hello Tim,

the standby flash is not active in tactical mode so you can try to switch to tactical.

In fact flash consumes very low current (about 50 uA) so it can't make the runtime or storage time significantly shorter.

Why you need to turn the flash off? From my experience it helps alot when you need to find the light in dark room. Another guy found the FL33 in the trees just thanks to this flash

We recommend AW cells, the new ones are rated at 3100mah. If you're using a 16 watts version on full these two will provide 1.5 hours runtime

There's a CPF thread where this FL33 size is discussed


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

just want to thank quazzle for the 334 engine!! :thumbsup:


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## klynk (Apr 18, 2010)

Any chance to see some beamshots "samsung vs. cree"?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

klynk said:


> Any chance to see some beamshots "samsung vs. cree"?


sure, I'm collecting the whole bunch of "new stuff" to make all together. I already built Nichia 219's and SAMSUNG 3535 engines. Today I received new XT-E (cool and warm) and next week I should have XB-D's

Any advise about scene?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

So is this the brightest one?

334MC-XPG-6500-A-LMH
Master light engine. 15 watts (1300 lumens). 3UP CREE XP-G R5 6500K (Cool white). Low-Mid-High (power pulse control).

I thought you mentioned a 1400 lumen one but ?

THX


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

yes, this is now the most bright one. Make sure you need LMH because with mom button you have a way more functions and what's even more important - with mom button you can get rid of the power switch.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> yes, this is now the most bright one. Make sure you need LMH because with mom button you have a way more functions and what's even more important - with mom button you can get rid of the power switch.


Now that I know how to use it, I like my 332 operation - the single button to turn it on/off, and adjust the medium level. I guess I must be looking at the wrong one.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

OK, so this is what I want?

334MC-XPG-6500-A-MOM
Master light engine. 15 watts (1300 lumens). 3UP CREE XP-G R5 6500K (Cool white). Mom button UI.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

Hello quazzle

I am really looking forward to a foto of your 334 engine with three nichia 219 high CRI LEDs. If these can deliver a good throw and really can be powered by one 18650 (higher Vf than Cree?), they would be perfect for a small helmet light.

Scene in the woods, as shwon in the fotos in this thread is very good, as long as there is no snow - is it allready gone there? Even better would be some small stones and or gras on the path or next to it under the trees (to see how well colors/patterns/shades can be seen).


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

gticlay said:


> OK, so this is what I want?
> 
> 334MC-XPG-6500-A-MOM
> Master light engine. 15 watts (1300 lumens). 3UP CREE XP-G R5 6500K (Cool white). Mom button UI.


yes, this is a classical engine, and it's still the best in terms of overal performance


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

mrradlos said:


> Hello quazzle
> 
> I am really looking forward to a foto of your 334 engine with three nichia 219 high CRI LEDs. If these can deliver a good throw and really can be powered by one 18650 (higher Vf than Cree?), they would be perfect for a small helmet light.
> 
> Scene in the woods, as shwon in the fotos in this thread is very good, as long as there is no snow - is it allready gone there? Even better would be some small stones and or gras on the path or next to it under the trees (to see how well colors/patterns/shades can be seen).


219's are almost the same die size as XP-G's so the light dissipation patern is almost the same. Together with CARCLO 10507 it's somewhat in the middle, about 24 FWHM degrees.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just added:
- 3UP CREE XT-E (4 power levels)
- 3UP Nichia's Hi-CRI 4500K (4 power levels)
- 3UP Samsumg 5000K (4 power levels)

comes next:
- 3UP CREE XB-D

here


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

new 3 step wizard makes the triple selection/configuring easy. The first step - you choose the engine type based on different wiring diagrams/app notes. On the second step you select the LED brand/type. The last step - you define the max power rating based on total luminous flux vs efficiency figures.

Direct link to the 334 configuration wizard


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> just added:
> - 3UP CREE XT-E (4 power levels)
> - 3UP Nichia's Hi-CRI 4500K (4 power levels)
> - 3UP Samsumg 5000K (4 power levels)
> ...


Nevermind - there's great info on his site.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Got my 334, to use in the old Chelboed 3X housing.
The good:
Nice unit, good color spectrum and the new UI works well. Connectors are a godsend. 

The bad:
Things are just too tight in this tiny little housing. There is absolutely no spare room to tuck away wires. The wires I have to fit in there and splice to the connector wires wouldn't allow the optic to sit properly so it's not throwing a great beam.

So, it's either time to re-use it in an Easy2Led housing or give this one away and start fresh with a new board and optic.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

> The wires I have to fit in there and splice to the connector wires wouldn't allow the optic to sit properly


Ofroad'bent, I'm sorry to hear that it's a tight fit for your wires. You mentioned that you had to splice the wires, is that the problem? If you didn't have to splice them would everything fit? Are you using the "super flexible silicone" wires from lux-rc to wire it up?

I'm glad to hear that the UI and tint / color temp is nice. What model 334 did you order?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

ThinkBike said:


> Ofroad'bent, I'm sorry to hear that it's a tight fit for your wires. You mentioned that you had to splice the wires, is that the problem? If you didn't have to splice them would everything fit? Are you using the "super flexible silicone" wires from lux-rc to wire it up?
> 
> I'm glad to hear that the UI and tint / color temp is nice. What model 334 did you order?


Everything would have fit just fine if it was just the thin silicone wires.
The problem has to do with the tiny housing- there is absolutely no extra space. 
In order to get strain relief I had to splice the wires "inboard". In an Easy2LED housing there should be lots of room to splice outboard of the 334.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Everything would have fit just fine if it was just the thin silicone wires.
> The problem has to do with the tiny housing- there is absolutely no extra space.
> In order to get strain relief I had to splice the wires "inboard". In an Easy2LED housing there should be lots of room to splice outboard of the 334.


Did you order up the 334MC-XPG-6500-A-MOM? I'm curious how much brighter it looks than the Original 332.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I got the XPE mom version. I don't think it's any brighter than my previous 332.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

just returned from the trees (it's 3:00 AM here). 11 makeups were captured (all triples, CARCLO 10507 lens, all driven with 1.5 amp).

DOWNLOAD THE PICTURE (1200 x 1072, it's TOO large to post it here)

LIST:
#1 CREE XP-E R3 WD0 Cool White
#2 CREE XP-E R3 4D0 Outdoor White
#3 CREE XP-G U1 Q3 ra90 HI CRI 3000K CCT 
#4 CREE XP-G Q5 3000K CCT Warm White
#5 CREE XP-G R5 1C0 6500K CCT Cool White
#6 CREE XP-G R4 4D0 4500K CCT Outdoor White
#7 CREE XT-E R5 6500K CCT Cool White
#8 CREE XT-E 3000K CCT Warm White
#9 NICHIA 219 R10 L SW45 ra92 HI CRI 4500K CCT Neutral White
#10 NICHIA 219 5000K CCT Neutral White
#11 SAMSUNG 3535 5000K CCT Neutral White

CAMERA SETTINGS:
NIKON D60 AF-S NIKKOR 18mm 
ISO 100
W/B DIRECT SUNLIGHT 0:0
5 sec F4.2


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

wow, I really like those Outdoor White tints, plus the last two Neutral Whites. The ones warmer than those just looked brown or orange. What's the colour temp for Cree's Neutral White? Somewhere between Cool White and Outdoor White?

I can see what the torch/ flashlight peeps are on about when they're singing the virtues of neutral white temps.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

> I can see what the torch/ flashlight peeps are on about when they're singing the virtues of neutral white temps.


My interest in something other than cool white started when I saw some photographs taken using high CRI flashlights. I knew the color rendering would be better, but I was very surprised at the improvement in depth perception as well.

I like the neutral, outdoor, high CRI LEDs (with the exception of the XPG high CRI). By comparison, cool whites look like black & white photographs.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Thanks for the beamshots!

I really like the XT-E Beamshot - nice throw and good spill to the sides!
Also the Samsung does a very nice job!
But i don't like the Nichia cause it seems they have less throw!
In my opinion ist the XP-G outperformed by the XT-E - so i would say somewhere in the middle between XT-E and the samsung led version.

I would say the outdoor and 5000cct versions are the way to go for me!


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

> #9 NICHIA 219 R10 L SW45 ra92 HI CRI 4500K CCT Neutral White
> #10 NICHIA 219 5000K CCT Neutral White


Quazzle, I believe #9 is referred to as the H1 version (NVSL219A-H1-E), is #10 the H3 version? What is the full model number of #10?

Thanks for going out into the woods at 3:00 AM to take all these pictures. :thumbsup:


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

I am also very impressed with the samsung. Any one know of a source for them on 10mm boards in the US. So far i can only find them in the 334 or on a german website. The german site has outrageous shipping. Something like 90 bucks since they only ship global express mail. At this point I might even be willing to buy bear emitters and try my hand at surface mount soldering. blank xp foot print 10mm boards are easy enough to get.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, do you have the individual high res photos that you used to create the page with the 11 different beam shots? 

If you could make those available via some links, we would be able to see how the various lights affect the ability to see smaller details. Zooming in to the more distant parts of the image would let you compare the throwing capabilities in more detail as well.

Thanks.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

please give me a few days to complete new beamshot comparison tool (the hi res photos will follow)


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> please give me a few days to complete new beamshot comparison tool (the hi res photos will follow)


Can you do a 332 vs 334 XPG max bright, same lens please?


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

gticlay said:


> Can you do a 332 vs 334 XPG max bright, same lens please?


It doesn't make a sense as both regulators drive the same current (depending on the version up the 1.5 amp) and use the same MCPCB insulation material. So you will see no difference on the beamshots. The difference is in the regulator efficiency. New 334 consumes about 1 watt less delivering the same output as 332 so it will affect the runtime and the body temperature. 334 lasts longer and stays cooler.


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

for power consumption
is that the total watts, or just the LED ? 
to gauge , battery runtime 
you'd pick the max watt you want to run, and can still program it for lower modes ?
is that correct ? 
and wonder about the price difference ?
since a 4W or 14W should be the same LED's, same driver, same parts ?
almost $10 difference ?


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Hi quazzle one short question:

I have the 334 mom button version: is the favourite mode stored after disconnecting the battery?
Or do i have to reprogram the fav.mode of the light each time i connect the battery to the light - bike light usage?

Thanks


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Whitedog1 said:


> Hi quazzle one short question:
> 
> I have the 334 mom button version: is the favourite mode stored after disconnecting the battery?
> Or do i have to reprogram the fav.mode of the light each time i connect the battery to the light - bike light usage?
> ...


The 334's memory retention is about 30sec. Normally it's enough to replace the batteries. If you disconnect it for a longer time, it will return to factory settings (datasheet answers all such questions much faster than I do 

Adding/programming fav. mode requires just one long press so it souldn't be a problem to program it again, right?

Also, there's no need to disconnect the 334 from the battery when you switch the light off. The parasitic current drain is very low (>50uA), it's almost zero so it won't drain your battery when it's sleeping.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

rschultz101 said:


> for power consumption
> is that the total watts, or just the LED ?
> to gauge , battery runtime
> you'd pick the max watt you want to run, and can still program it for lower modes ?
> is that correct ?


absolutely. But even though a low version is still more power efficient because it uses different compoents (including inductor) which are optimized for lower currents. It also explains some price difference.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

quazzle said:


> The 334's memory retention is about 30sec. Normally it's enough to replace the batteries. If you disconnect it for a longer time, it will return to factory settings (datasheet answers all such questions much faster than I do
> 
> Adding/programming fav. mode requires just one long press so it souldn't be a problem to program it again, right?
> 
> Also, there's no need to disconnect the 334 from the battery when you switch the light off. The parasitic current drain is very low (>50uA), it's almost zero so it won't drain your battery when it's sleeping.


*hit, i missed that part!!
Why does it reset if the battery is diconected?? I have to disconect the battery to charge it! And now, anytime conecting it to the battery i have to program it again - that's not a feature - that's a bug!! :nono:

Probably i can handle this, but I have customers - and I don't think they can!! :eekster::eekster:
Not everyone out there is a programming nerd...:madman:

Plese don't missunderstand that - your engines are really nice but not user friendly in this case!


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Whitedog1 said:


> *hit, i missed that part!!
> Why does it reset if the battery is diconected?? I have to disconect the battery to charge it! And now, anytime conecting it to the battery i have to program it again - that's not a feature - that's a bug!! :nono:
> Probably i can handle this, but I have customers - and I don't think they can!! :eekster::eekster:
> Not everyone out there is a programming nerd...:madman:


"programming" just sounds complex but it takes just 1 (one) press and a few seconds.

But your concern is well understood. I'll add FLASH non-volatile memory in next release. And a motion sensor as a bonus, ok?


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Whitedog1, I have the 334 as well and it's super easy to "program". But I do understand that it would be nice if the favorite level would be held in non-volatile flash memory. Just less stuff to fool around with.


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

I just finished testing my new 334 Nichia 219 high CRI A series engines.

Master and slave units in a Gili Generation III housing.

Two narrow clear carclo 3 up optics.

Some observations:

Color rendering - I'll never go back to cool white. From now on it's neutral or high CRI.

Nichia beam pattern - Smooth as silk and very even from side to side and from the front of the wheel to the horizon.

The combination of high CRI color rendering and Nichia beam pattern has improved my peripheral vision 100%. I used to get night blind from the cool white XPGs hitting the foreground with a wall of light that would reflect back into my eyes.:eekster: While the XPGs were super bright, I'd turn my head and look off into the forest and see nothing but a blanket of pitch black darkness.

I like the new user interface:

334 now lets you choose a light level from 1-100% for favorite mode. Older L333 would only go to 50% max for favorite.

On the Flash and Tactical Mode side of things (SOS flash, 30 Sec Flash, Mental Strobe & Tactical Flash ) I've decided that I really like the Tactical. Press the button and you get a 100% brightness, flash for as long and you hold the momentary button. Great for daytime riding if you've got a remote momentary button. If you see someone ahead, just hit the button. Entering an intersection? Manually flash as many times and as slowly or quickly as you like. Think of it as a bright flash of light that works like a horn. I think Quazzle should call it a "Light Horn". I could see riding with this mode all day long and using almost no battery power.

The only thing I don't like about this setting is that you need to disconnect the light from the battery to get out of it, but I don't see any other way since anytime you press the button, the light goes on.

Adding non-volatile flash memory for the favorite mode would be nice. I was playing around with the light settings some more and so edited my previous post to agree with Whitedog1 on the issue of saving the favorite mode in non-volatile flash memory. Many people are creatures of habit and will find a favorite light level and rarely if ever want to change that setting. The non-volatile flash memory would make a big difference for those people.

By the way, if anyone is thinking of using a small compact housing like the generation III mentioned above, be aware that with two series A engines, it gets very, very hot. It will get so hot that you can't hold it. This is not a problem with the housing or the 334. It's an end user problem (that would be me)

I don't care if it gets hot. As long as the LEDs aren't going to burn out and they are rated for those temps. I'd rather have a smaller, hotter housing than a larger heavier housing.

Now that the 334 has wisely implemented software temperature mangement, idiots like me need to order custom engines. Why? In the past the L332/L333 would run up to 120C before the light would go down to about 2% (you can correct me on this Quazzle, I'm just guessing). In the past I could cram two 15 watt engines into this housing and as long as I was riding at least 7-10 mph, I could ride it at full blast until my batteries died.

Now, if I run the light on high, I have a max of 5 minutes before the software temp management brings the light to the built in low setting. :madman: Last night if was about 58 F /15 C and I was riding at 22 mph / 35 kmh (slight downhill of course) and I couldn't get the light to stay on high for more than a minute.

I should have probably ordered a custom engine with a cutoff at the maximum operating temp for the Nichia which is 100C (max LED junction temp is 150C)

The software temp management is a good thing. I'm just trying to do something that's not normally recommended.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

thank you for very detailed feedback, apparently the temp. cutoff should be a user-configurable setting that you may change at home. That's the next hint for 335 version


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

quazzle said:


> "programming" just sounds complex but it takes just 1 (one) press and a few seconds.
> 
> But your concern is well understood. I'll add FLASH non-volatile memory in next release. And a motion sensor as a bonus, ok?





quazzle said:


> thank you for very detailed feedback, apparently the temp. cutoff should be a user-configurable setting that you may change at home. That's the next hint for 335 version


hey, yes thanks - that would make your engines perfect! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
now waiting for 335


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, I'm curious about something. It's an extremely faint pulsing of the light that seems to occur every 3 seconds or so.

I can't see it when riding. 

I have to get very close to the light and put my face at the same level and look at it 90 degrees offset from the beam (from the side). Only then can I see a very faint pulsing of the light about every 3 seconds. Is this due to the PWM Pulse Width Modulation used for dimming / changing the light intensity?

It doesn't affect how the light is used as it can't be seen while riding.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Whitedog1 said:


> hey, yes thanks - that would make your engines perfect! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: now waiting for 335


thanks!

but I didn't tell that 335 comes soon  no deadline so far


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ThinkBike said:


> Quazzle, I'm curious about something. It's an extremely faint pulsing of the light that seems to occur every 3 seconds or so.


It's not PWM. Every 2.5sec it measures the voltage/temperature so I switch the light off on about 50µs (microseconds) to increase the measurement accuracy. The running regulator generates alot of highfreq noise. I can leave it running all the way but in this case the voltage/temperature measurement will be far less accurate.

you have a very sensitive eye as 99.9% cannot tell so short break.

It amazes me what a top notch instrument the human eye is. Really. It can tell a very short break, just imagine, 1µs is just a 1/1000000 of second.


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## ecthelion (May 6, 2007)

*XB-dD ETA?*



quazzle said:


> just added:
> - 3UP CREE XT-E (4 power levels)
> - 3UP Nichia's Hi-CRI 4500K (4 power levels)
> - 3UP Samsumg 5000K (4 power levels)
> ...


Are you going to have a standard offering of this one soon, or is it custom only?


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

> thank you for very detailed feedback, apparently the temp. cutoff should be a user-configurable setting that you may change at home.


Re:Temp Cutoff - I think even 80C is too low. Cree is binning their LEDs at 85C and that's not even the max operating temp. The Nichia are less efficient than some of the Cree and have a max operating temp of 100C.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

yes, I had to increase it up to 100C. 
Already done.


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

ecthelion said:


> Are you going to have a standard offering of this one soon, or is it custom only?


After XB-D testing I discarded this idea. This led type requires PCB modification, it's not worth it.


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## WeLight (Aug 12, 2007)

ThinkBike said:


> Quazzle, I believe #9 is referred to as the H1 version (NVSL219A-H1-E), is #10 the H3 version? What is the full model number of #10?
> 
> Thanks for going out into the woods at 3:00 AM to take all these pictures. :thumbsup:


You will find these are a limited edition H1 in the B10 flux


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## ThinkBike (Jun 16, 2010)

Quazzle, as of today, I don't see any 3up LED engines on your site lux-rc.com. Any idea on when your site will be updated to show the 334 engines?


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

quazzle said:


> just returned from the trees (it's 3:00 AM here). 11 makeups were captured (all triples, CARCLO 10507 lens, all driven with 1.5 amp).
> 
> DOWNLOAD THE PICTURE (1200 x 1072, it's TOO large to post it here)
> 
> ...


Hi Quazzle, what about to add the CREE XP-G2 and XP-E2 to these photos!?:thumbsup:


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

Hi Guys,

in 2013 we change the way it works. The DIY parts will be available only for "authorized" builders. Good news that the prices will be cheaper. Bad news we will supply the parts only to limitted number of builders. 

Kind regards,
Serge


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> in 2013 we change the way it works. The DIY parts will be available only for "authorized" builders. Good news that the prices will be cheaper. Bad news we will supply the parts only to limitted number of builders.
> 
> ...


So no more MTBR + Easy2led purchases?


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Interesting switch in business model. It you don't mind, would tell us the reason for the change?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

quazzle said:


> guys,
> 
> without your insterest and support it would be absolutely no reason to release new version of popular 3up engine
> 
> ...


especially after this.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

oh oh ooohhhh that's not so good for us! 
Hopefully we all will be "autorized" builders!!? :thumbsup:


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> Interesting switch in business model. It you don't mind, would tell us the reason for the change?


My guess is all the damaged posts on the boards from attempts to solder wires and fit the optics- a problem solved by the connector kit.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Ofroad'bent said:


> My guess is all the damaged posts on the boards from attempts to solder wires and fit the optics


I'm pretty certain you are right. Exactly the reason I never sell a "kit". Not enough profit in this to "warranty" dead parts caused by inexperienced assembly.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

could also be the difficulty of matching small scale orders with a varied inventory and constant LED refreshes. By only selling large lots to builders that know how to assemble them, it'll be easier to match orders and inventory without being caught out with a load of old XP-E/G boards that no one wants.

that plus warranties is my guess. Shame though. Time to start reflowing your own parallel triples and choosing your own driver.


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## phburns (Sep 30, 2008)

As requested, 3 XM-L Driver/Emitter module DIY | BudgetLightForum.com

http://www.brightlightmodules.com/


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

...


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

We're going through a drastic website redo, sorry that no LEs available online, this should be fixed soon.

If you have an urgent need in 334 engines please contact me by email at SALES [AT] LUX-RC.COM (replace [AT] with @).

- Please specify the led brand/bins/color temperatue;
- MOM button or power pulses UI
- Max. power level (now we can supply up to 20Watts)

Datasheet (PDF) download link:
http://www.quazzle.com/temp/334/LUXRC-334-EN-29APR2012.pdf


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## rschultz101 (Oct 5, 2009)

could you post the 312 datasheet ?
would like the 312 with xp-g2 and 1.5A
2A on copper be great, 20mm be ok.
and spot lens
thanks


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## quazzle (Apr 1, 2009)

312 is a very simple regulator board, it's only 14.5mm in diam, 1A, no copper.
http://www.quazzle.com/temp/312/L312PCB-EN-200410.pdf

It was designed for ultra-small 10mm light called L31, you can see its photos/drawings here:
Âñòðå÷àéòå, L31 - íó î÷åíü ìåëêèé ìîäóëü ñ âñòðîåííûì äðàéâåðîì - Ðàçðàáîòêè îò Lux-RC - FONAREVKA.RU - Âñ¸ î ôîíàðÿõ è îñâåòèòåëüíîé òåõíèêå


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