# 2016 Diamondback Mason Trail - Review, Thoughts, Discussion



## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

I have been looking to replace my 10 year old 26" hardtail for some time and my buddy, Unit91MS, came across the Diamondback Mason Trail. I have had it for a week and am very impressed with how much you get for the money. I want this post to be an outlet to tell what I have learned with this bike, answer any questions you might have, and provide accurate measurements of the bike.

First off, this bike is a screaming deal. I bought it direct from Diamondback for $750. The MSRP is $1400 and Diamondback is the only place that sells it that cheap. When you go to the website, you have to go to retailers and then be directed to shop.diamondback.com. My carton shipped from Ohio and got to Michigan in 3 business days. It took 4 days to get to Buffalo for my other friend that bought one.

Reasons for Buying:
The bike may have budget parts, but it has all of the best standards to upgrade from.
Fork has an air spring, boost spacing, and 15mm TA
Threaded BSA bottom bracket, (don't have to worry about press fit bearing!)
Hydraulic brakes with 180mm rotors front/rear 
Tubeless compatible rims
Rear boost spacing with 12mm TA
Grips have two lock rings per side, one on the outer end and one on the inner end
ISCG 05 mounting tabs
1x drivetrain with 30T front sprocket

Some discrepancies I found from the specs listed online are:
Both rotors are 180mm
Tire width is actually 2.8"

Assembly:
Assembly is straight forward. The website even has a tab of "Assembly" which makes it very easy to follow along and get the bike set up, even for a novice. A quick note, there is no bracket to space out the brake caliper on the fork. The post mounts are set up exclusively for 180mm rotors. If you are freaking out because there is no bracket, just put the caliper on and everything will line up. The derailleur was adjusted fairly well out of the box, but it is a good idea to go through and make sure everything is adjusted properly. I waited to take a ride before removing the plastic shield between the cassette and wheel.
I had to remove the right hand brake lever and reroute it through the frame as it was incorrect. Not a huge deal. Also note that the front brake hose goes between the fork and the wheel.

Fit:
I bought a medium because I am medium for everything. I am 5'7", with long arms and short legs. Below are some dimensions of me, and of the bike.


 Dimensions	 In	 mm	 Height	 67	 1701.8	 Wingspan (tip to tip)	 73.5	 1866.9	 Inseam	 30	 762	 Hip bone to ground	 33.5	 850.9	 Top of bent knee to foot	 21	 533.4	 Inseam	 30	 762	 First knuckle to mid shoulder	 25	 635	 axle to axle	 45.5	 1155.7	 Chainstay horizontal	 17	 431.8	 Chainstay along tube	 17.25	 438.15	 BB to seat clamp	 16.75	 425.45	 Stand over (3" in front of seat)	 28.5	 723.9	 Bar width	 30.5	 774.7	 center seat post to bar	 26.5	 673.1	 axle to crown	 23.5	 596.9	

I have the seat post maxed out past the recommended line. So be aware you might need to get a longer seat post. The reach feels good. A little tighter than I am used to, but I have had no issues riding it so far. I cannot hit my knees on the handlebar when riding.

Me standing over bike flat footed

Me failing to touch the ground when sitting on the saddle


Feet on platform pedals



Another sitting on the bike


Inside of rear cassette with plastic guard


Inside of rear cassette with plastic guard removed


Rear cassette and derailleur


Chain stretch on largest sprocket


Chain stretch on smallest sprocket

 
Cranks


Inside of chainstay (needs to be covered)


Back of seat stay, internal routing?


High direct mount for front derailleur


Bottom bracket. Mmm welds


Stem and Handlebar


Headtube


Fork lockout


Fork arch


Rebound adjuster


Front brake. Notice no adapter, the SR Suntour Raidon has post mounts meant for 180mm rotors


Rear brake


Right brake lever and shifter


Left brake lever

 
Actual tire width of , 2.8" for Chaoyang Big Daddy 27.5x3.5"


Seat clamp and seat post. Note that its maxed out even with my short legs.


Soon to go tubeless!


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

First ride impressions:
The grip is unreal. Over sandy rooty climbs I never lost traction. I haven’t been able to corner hard enough to lose the rear tire. 

I need to sand the brake rotor and pads as they are howling. I must not have bedded them in correctly. They still stop, but vibrate and make a lot of noise. 

The brake levers are awful if you want to one-finger brake. I moved the housing inboard and need to try to adjust the levers out more. I was squishing my middle fingers when braking.

The fork pressure was set very high from the factory (120+ psi). I set it to about 75 psi and it seems to be a good place to start. For reference I am 150 lbs. Rebound is set in the middle and might need a little more fine tuning.

The geometry seems to be working pretty well. I have no issue climbing and I have more confidence going downhill compared to my old hardtail.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Good write up, glad you enjoy your new ride!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Nice write up dude. Chaps my ass a bit that I spent so much on my fuse then found this for you guys. 

Another thing to note is the rebound adjustment is incredibly vague on the fork. The knob doesn't have any feedback so it's tough to tell where you are in adjustment. I believe I saw someone, maybe in the Norco thread actually had their rebound knob come off when adjusting. 

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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

I could loosen and tighten it all the way without it coming off. But yes there were not clicks or anything. I'm not convinced it really does much either. But again for the price I can't complain. I'll just save for a Yari


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> I could loosen and tighten it all the way without it coming off. But yes there were not clicks or anything. I'm not convinced it really does much either. But again for the price I can't complain. I'll just save for a Yari


It made a small impact but agreed, very minimal. The yari will change the way you view life.

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## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

Nice write-up; thanks. Fed-Ex is scheduled to drop off an XL Mason Trail for me today and I'll post some impressions as well. $750 was just to good of a deal to pass up giving one of these a try.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

CuzinMike said:


> Nice write-up; thanks. Fed-Ex is scheduled to drop off an XL Mason Trail for me today and I'll post some impressions as well. $750 was just to good of a deal to pass up giving one of these a try.


Unit91 and I have convinced 3 other friends to purchase the bike too! They all seem very happy with it. The Mason Trail seems like a great bike for both experienced and novice riders. 
I wonder if Diamondback gives out rewards for selling their bikes....


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

Hey, great post. Lots of useful info. This will be my first time back riding since about 15 years ago and my first bike since. It's still in the box, cannot wait to have it ready to go.

I have a question though. I have been reading up on going tubeless and noticed the rims that came with Mason Trail are tubeless ready, but the tires are not. Do you think there will be any issue using these tires as tubeless? I was looking at a new pair of WTB Rangers, but I'm cutting really close on my budget as I need a helmet, and multiple pumps(shock pump etc) and other misc items to do this right.

Thanks!


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## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

Got my XL Mason Trail delivered tonight. Ordered Monday, delivered today with free shipping. Can't beat that. 

I just put mine together and have only ridden it along the block so I can't add anything detailed, but will say this. 

- The stock generic Chinese tires are marked 3.5, but I'll concur that they are only 2.8s. 

- External rim width is a scant 32mm according to my micrometer. My "non-plus" 29er with Velocity P-35 rims are wider than these, so not really a true plus bike as it sits. I'm not even sure if I'd want to put full 3" tires on rims this narrow. 

- Build quality seems good for the price and the transmission shifts flawlessly out of the box. I'm impressed with this new Deore stuff, and I'm used to riding XTR on my 29er. We'll have to see how well it does on the trail. 

- The seatpost is too short. XL bikes shouldn't come with 350mm posts, so that will get swapped immediately.

Fit-wise it seems smaller than my other XL frames. I'm 6'4" with a 36" inseam. If I was any taller I would likely be too big to this frame. 

All that said, for 750 bones shipped it's still a pretty screaming deal that leaves plenty of room in my budget to upgrade. I'll post a more thorough review after I get some trail time on it.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

Great write up been waiting for some good reviews to come in to justify this bike. How long do bikes usually stay on db featured bike shop ? Going out of town so would like to wait till next week to order. Is the frame compatible with a internal dropper post? can't tell by there pictures. I'm 6,0 maybe 6,1 with a 32 Jean inseam I'm guessing the large would be the adequate size for me? Btw your pictures are not working.


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Are the tires wire bead? Also, how is the rolling resistance on them?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Thabreit said:


> Great write up been waiting for some good reviews to come in to justify this bike. How long do bikes usually stay on db featured bike shop ? Going out of town so would like to wait till next week to order. Is the frame compatible with a internal dropper post? can't tell by there pictures. I'm 6,0 maybe 6,1 with a 32 Jean inseam I'm guessing the large would be the adequate size for me? Btw your pictures are not working.


Pictures working for me. Large seems like it would be the size for you, but it comes down to personal preference.

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## us2000ua (Jun 5, 2016)

Pictures are not working for me.


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## Fleas (Jan 19, 2006)

CuzinMike said:


> Got my XL Mason Trail delivered tonight. Ordered Monday, delivered today with free shipping. Can't beat that.
> 
> I just put mine together and have only ridden it along the block so I can't add anything detailed, but will say this.
> 
> ...


I saw on the site that the rims were only 32mm. I thought that a true 3.5" tire would be pretty unstable. But does the frame provide enough space for a 3.5" tire if there was one?

-F


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## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

I measure about 0.4" of clearance on each side of the stock tire. I imagine on a wider rim a true 3" tire would fit fine, but I doubt if anything larger would.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

CuzinMike said:


> I measure about 0.4" of clearance on each side of the stock tire. I imagine on a wider rim a true 3" tire would fit fine, but I doubt if anything larger would.


That's just over 10mm.


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Are the tires wire bead? Also, how is the rolling resistance on them?


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

I updated all the pictures. Apparently Imgur doesnt like to host images. So I moved them all to photobucket, which was way easier.



djembe975 said:


> Are the tires wire bead? Also, how is the rolling resistance on them?


Tires are not wire bead and RR isn't noticeable worse than my 26er. These tires are pretty decent.

Also this wheels were the easiest tubeless conversion I have ever done. Unmounted easily, went back on easily, and seated immediately.

I also measured at over 12.5 oz per tube.

Left over night I lost no air pressure.

I rode a twisty trail yesterday at 15 psi and that was too high. I'll probably go to 12-13 psi. My gauge is awesome. Link to amazon. 0-30psi, peak hold, and $15





My homemade tire sealant. I made about a gallon for under $30. Each of these bottles is 16.9 oz and I used about 4 oz per tire.




I also wrapped my chainstay in some blue carbon look handlebar tape. No more chain slap! Plus it looks pretty good.


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## triathloner (Apr 5, 2008)

Care to share that recipe for the home made sealant? Stans is quite pricey in my opinion.


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## xgsjx (May 24, 2016)

triathloner said:


> Care to share that recipe for the home made sealant? Stans is quite pricey in my opinion.


From looking at it, I'd say it's McDonald's Strawberry Milkshake. It has the bits too.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

xgsjx said:


> From looking at it, I'd say it's McDonald's Strawberry Milkshake. It has the bits too.


Knowing scrapmetal, that sounds about right. Strawberry milkshake. Just add glitter.

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## xgsjx (May 24, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Knowing scrapmetal, that sounds about right. Strawberry milkshake. Just add glitter.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Gives a bit of bling & smells nice when you're riding.

Shame they're not available in the UK, especially at that price.


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## Malthraxian (Jun 24, 2016)

I ordered the Mason Pro Last night. I've only ever ridden a fully rigid 26. We shall see...


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

xgsjx said:


> From looking at it, I'd say it's McDonald's Strawberry Milkshake. It has the bits too.


Here are three threads that I saved for the concoction. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/homemade-tire-sealants-brews-457501.html
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/exhausted-tubeless-goop-777483.html
DIY tubeless sealant? « Singletrack Forum

You can get fancy and add different things to it. I kept it simple and its been working great for me so far.

 1 container (16 oz) of Latex Mold Builder 

5-6 parts RV Antifreeze, (contains propylene glycol). I put in enough to get to about 3/4 gallon of total fluid

A few containers of different size glitter. I think I found purple in a few different sizes. Some people say to shave old tubes and use the rubber particles, but that is a huge pain in the ass. The glitter seems to be doing just fine. You can add a bottle of Slime instead to get the particles, but I wanted to try the cheapest route.

Then mix and enjoy.

I had about 3/4 of a gallon when i finished and it was under $25. Figure 4 oz per wheel, that come out to 24 plus tires, or 48 regular tires.

Stans = $0.86/oz
My special sauce = $0.26/oz
Nice little cost savings.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Has anybody confirmed that those tires are indeed the same as panaracer fat-b-nimbles? There's anecdotal evidence on the internets that say they're made in the same factory, and from the look of the tread, its identical.

Anyway, if they are the same as the FBNs, expect them to grow just a little bit. Mine are now just about 2.9" at the tread and casing on i35 rims. Your rims are just a bit wider at 38mm inner, I believe.

Not a bad tire to start with, but I cant wait to wear mine out and swap in nobby nics or rekons.

EDIT: I just read that you measured the rims as 32mm external, so thats different from the advertised 38mm internal rim I expect it to come with. I doubt they'll grow any bigger than 2.8 in that case. Be careful with rolling the tire over the rim. Even on my i35s, they get a little squirmy.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

CuzinMike said:


> Got my XL Mason Trail delivered tonight. Ordered Monday, delivered today with free shipping. Can't beat that.
> 
> I just put mine together and have only ridden it along the block so I can't add anything detailed, but will say this.
> 
> ...


What do you think needs upgrading?


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

I'm seriously thinking about pulling the trigger on one of these. What's the actual weight of the medium? 

I'm sure this will be a life changing move for me. I'm new to MTB and ride a Vilano 29er. Next week I'm inheriting a 26"Diamondback sorrento that's been upgraded with a Reba and running 1x10. I just want something of my own.


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## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

Eventually I'll upgrade to wider rims and better hubs. For now I have a 400mm seatpost on order since I'm already at the limit line on the stock post and I still want the seat higher (I have a 37" inseam). I'll also add a higher rise bar. I wish they'd have left the steerer tube uncut so I could add another spacer. Being tall is no fun in the bike world. I also swapped out the stock grips for Ergons just because they're what I prefer. 

I spent about 2 hours on the trail with Mason today and I'm impressed. I love the geometry of this frame compared to the XC geo of my singlespeed on more technical terrain. It's super stable on the downhills and flats, yet I had no problems keeping the front wheel down on technical climbs. The tires were fantastic, to be honest. I didn't lose traction in places I normally do. Brakes are OK, not great but passable; more power would be nice, but they are silent. I weigh 190 and set the fork at 110psi. I used about 3/4 of the travel on some 2ft drops. 

So far I'm impressed. I honestly can't see a downside to plus tires if you ride for fun like most of us do.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Mike, I agree on most fronts. Wider rims, better hubs, and better brakes are what I would change first. I am going to take off my seat (Specialized Phenom), carbon fiber seat post, grips, and maybe handlebar. The diamondback handlebar is a little wide for some of the trails around here. Great for downhill, not great for technical tight tree stuff. 

I will note that the rear brake is howling/squealing and vibrating like mad. I already tried to sand down the disk and pads and re-bed the brakes, but that didnt help. My plan is to sand the rotors down more and try again. if that doesn't help I am going to swap over one of my extra 160mm rotors and just take the spacer off to convert the rear to 160mm. But again I am going to replace the brakes as soon as I can, I hate the modulation and lever actuation. Plus they aren't that good to begin with. Probably end up going with Shimano XTs because I have a bunch of Shimano mineral oil left over and they are fairly bulletproof and not crazy expensive.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> Mike, I agree on most fronts. Wider rims, better hubs, and better brakes are what I would change first. I am going to take off my seat (Specialized Phenom), carbon fiber seat post, grips, and maybe handlebar. The diamondback handlebar is a little wide for some of the trails around here. Great for downhill, not great for technical tight tree stuff.
> 
> I will note that the rear brake is howling/squealing and vibrating like mad. I already tried to sand down the disk and pads and re-bed the brakes, but that didnt help. My plan is to sand the rotors down more and try again. if that doesn't help I am going to swap over one of my extra 160mm rotors and just take the spacer off to convert the rear to 160mm. But again I am going to replace the brakes as soon as I can, I hate the modulation and lever actuation. Plus they aren't that good to begin with. Probably end up going with Shimano XTs because I have a bunch of Shimano mineral oil left over and they are fairly bulletproof and not crazy expensive.


Keep in mind your old bars are 31.8. Dbacks are 35.

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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

FYI for those wondering about what to set fork pressure to. Pressure is set by sag, or % of total suspension travel when loaded with bodyweight. Diamondback recommends 15-30%. This is an exert from their owner's manual.

The “SAG” (negative spring stroke) is the compression that is caused solely by the body weight and the position of the rider. The “SAG” depends on the position and weight of the rider and should be between 15% and 30% of the fork’s max travel depending on the intended use and preferences.


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## MiWolverine (Jun 15, 2009)

I've been also eyeballing this bike. Yesterday, I found a crack in my SC Superlight 26er frame and will need to replace it. I've been looking for an excuse to get into a + tire frame. Good part is, I have a lot of high(er)-end parts on my SL that will swap over to this bike. My only concerns are the fork, hubs and rims. Also, I'm not sure if I read this, but does the frame have a threaded bottom bracket?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

MiWolverine said:


> I've been also eyeballing this bike. Yesterday, I found a crack in my SC Superlight 26er frame and will need to replace it. I've been looking for an excuse to get into a + tire frame. Good part is, I have a lot of high(er)-end parts on my SL that will swap over to this bike. My only concerns are the fork, hubs and rims. Also, I'm not sure if I read this, but does the frame have a threaded bottom bracket?


Has a bsa bb with iscg05 tabs.

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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

So I found out today after talking to the LBS that the OEM pads are organic and garbage. The Tektro Auriga are on a lot of base level bikes. I ordered a set of sintered pads from Disco Brakes. Apparently the pads are the same as Shimano M525.
Here is a link for those interested
You can get replacement pads at CRC/Jenson/etc but I have had good luck with Disco Brakes and their prices are awesome. Plus you get many different pad material options.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

To answer some earlier questions:



Thabreit said:


> Great write up been waiting for some good reviews to come in to justify this bike. How long do bikes usually stay on db featured bike shop ? Going out of town so would like to wait till next week to order. Is the frame compatible with a internal dropper post? can't tell by there pictures. I'm 6,0 maybe 6,1 with a 32 Jean inseam I'm guessing the large would be the adequate size for me? Btw your pictures are not working.


Not sure how long it will be available. It's been a few weeks so I don't think you have anything to be worried about. Can't hurt to call DB and ask them. When I called asking if I will void my warranty by putting the bike together myself (it won't) they were very helpful and fun to talk to. 
I am not sure if it is compatible with an internal dropper. There is an access hole on the back of the seat stay above the BB, but I haven't figured out what its for. The top of the line DB Mason uses a KS Lev DX which has external routing. I can take a closer look. And as suggested before a L frame should work.



JK85 said:


> Hey, great post. Lots of useful info. This will be my first time back riding since about 15 years ago and my first bike since. It's still in the box, cannot wait to have it ready to go.
> 
> I have a question though. I have been reading up on going tubeless and noticed the rims that came with Mason Trail are tubeless ready, but the tires are not. Do you think there will be any issue using these tires as tubeless? I was looking at a new pair of WTB Rangers, but I'm cutting really close on my budget as I need a helmet, and multiple pumps(shock pump etc) and other misc items to do this right.
> 
> Thanks!


Wheels are already set up to go tubeless. All that is needed is valve stems, sealant, and to remove the tube.
The procedure I used was:
-Air down tubes
-Take off one side of tire (I did it by hand, didnt need tire levers)
-Remove tube
-Install tubeless valvestem (a universal one will work fine)
-Pour in 4 oz of sealant
-Install tire onto wheels
-Pump up tire to ~30ish psi to make sure it seats completely. I used a floor pump but made sure that most of the tire bead was close to the edge
-Hold wheel horizontal and smack the side of the tire on the ground to get sealant on the bead and seal it. Rotate and repeat on the other side

My tire sealed right away, if you find that there is some leaking I would leave the wheel on its side over night to get sealant to cover the leak and seal it.

I am a huge fan of these tires and wouldn't suggest upgrading them right away. I think new brake pads are far more worthwhile.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> To answer some earlier questions:
> 
> Not sure how long it will be available. It's been a few weeks so I don't think you have anything to be worried about. Can't hurt to call DB and ask them. When I called asking if I will void my warranty by putting the bike together myself (it won't) they were very helpful and fun to talk to.
> I am not sure if it is compatible with an internal dropper. There is an access hole on the back of the seat stay above the BB, but I haven't figured out what its for. The top of the line DB Mason uses a KS Lev DX which has external routing. I can take a closer look. And as suggested before a L frame should work.
> ...


I was wondering do you need the rim tape also?

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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

scrapmetal57 said:


> To answer some earlier questions:
> 
> Not sure how long it will be available. It's been a few weeks so I don't think you have anything to be worried about. Can't hurt to call DB and ask them. When I called asking if I will void my warranty by putting the bike together myself (it won't) they were very helpful and fun to talk to.
> I am not sure if it is compatible with an internal dropper. There is an access hole on the back of the seat stay above the BB, but I haven't figured out what its for. The top of the line DB Mason uses a KS Lev DX which has external routing. I can take a closer look. And as suggested before a L frame should work.
> ...


Awesome, thanks for the play by play. This will help a lot with my first time going tubeless.

@Daholla77 He told me in a pm that they come pre-taped.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

JK85 said:


> Awesome, thanks for the play by play. This will help a lot with my first time going tubeless.
> 
> @Daholla77 He told me in a pm that they come pre-taped.


Do you know if he had to drill the wheel for the stem.

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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

xgsjx said:


> From looking at it, I'd say it's McDonald's Strawberry Milkshake. It has the bits too.





Daholla77 said:


> Do you know if he had to drill the wheel for the stem.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


It really is that easy. You use the hole from the stem attached to the tube. The tape was already installed.

The steps I listed are literally all you have to do. I promise I didn't skip anything!

Also fun fact, the Tektro Auriga brake pads are the same as Shimano M535. I bought a bulk pack from Disco Brakes for $20 of semi-metallic. I'll report back how they work.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> It really is that easy. You use the hole from the stem attached to the tube. The tape was already installed.
> 
> The steps I listed are literally all you have to do. I promise I didn't skip anything!
> 
> Also fun fact, the Tektro Auriga brake pads are the same as Shimano M535. I bought a bulk pack from Disco Brakes for $20 of semi-metallic. I'll report back how they work.


Thank you

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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

Great thread. I received my Large Mason Trail a couple of weeks back and this is what I have to add. I am 6 ft tall with a 30" inseam and the large fits just right. I weight 260 and I think I'm running about 110-115 psi in the front fork. Tire pressures I can't remember right now, but I'm sure those will change after I go tubeless.

Setup was really straightforward and easy, even for a novice like myself. I've picked up on some things I need to address from this thread, such as the brake routing, which I'll address this week. The only changes I've made from the stock setup thus far are ESI chunky grips and the addition of a WTB Speed saddle. The only other changes I have planned are converting to tubeless and replacing the brake pads as I'm having the same brake issues mentioned by others.

I shopped this bike against the Fuse and Charge Cooker. For a few hundred less than the Cooker and for half of the Fuse, I am really pleased with the bike thus far. Keep in mind I'm a complete hack, and had not been on a trail for at least 15 years. This bike was picked up to replace a '97 Gary Fisher. For some reason I was charged sales tax in Texas by DB, so my tab came out to a little over $800 shipped.

I am pleased with my purchase and would recommend. Thanks again for starting the thread.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

spankbomb said:


> Great thread. I received my Large Mason Trail a couple of weeks back and this is what I have to add. I am 6 ft tall with a 30" inseam and the large fits just right. I weight 260 and I think I'm running about 110-115 psi in the front fork. Tire pressures I can't remember right now, but I'm sure those will change after I go tubeless.
> 
> Setup was really straightforward and easy, even for a novice like myself. I've picked up on some things I need to address from this thread, such as the brake routing, which I'll address this week. The only changes I've made from the stock setup thus far are ESI chunky grips and the addition of a WTB Speed saddle. The only other changes I have planned are converting to tubeless and replacing the brake pads as I'm having the same brake issues mentioned by others.
> 
> ...


I am the same height about the same on inseam. Glad that it fits you well. I am a big guy too 300+ buying one on thursday.

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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

I have one of these too, and am very happy with it so far.

The spec for $750 is ridiculous. External BB cranks with a narrow wide ring. Clutch derailleur with an 11-40 cassette, pretty good. Decent fork with a decent cockpit with a decent saddle and everything else. I paid $200 for a used up specialized hardrock, and this bike is replacing that and will be primarily used for kid toting and backup for when my main ride goes down.

The tires roll very well. I've used them for an extended road ride and while not the best choice, they held up well. I'm sure at this price point that they are wire bead. There's no way they put folding tires on a $1500 bike. Good to know they are tubeless compatible. Not sure whether I'll go that route but I might try!

I'll be anxiously waiting to hear your review of the upgraded pads. I think the brakes are surprisingly adequate for a budget setup, but I get the same howling and vibrating. I'm ready to swap for a pair of formulas or XTs that I have lying around, but if a set of pads will save them, I'll just save those for later. The modulation is good and overall power is adequate for trail riding, but they need help if you're going to get aggressive.

I can't figure out a place for internal routing. There are bolts on the downtube that look like they could hold cable guides, and that rear port looks more like an internal guide for a post than a derailleur. You'd end up with a pretty gnarly turn in your housing if you went that route though.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

sandwich said:


> The tires roll very well. I've used them for an extended road ride and while not the best choice, they held up well. I'm sure at this price point that they are wire bead. There's no way they put folding tires on a $1500 bike. Good to know they are tubeless compatible. Not sure whether I'll go that route but I might try!


I wouldn't be too sure.... 
 Checking out Chaoyang's website, the 27.5x3.5 tubeless ready tire is a folding bead. 


Part No.SizeETROTechnologyCompoundTPIBeadColorWeight(g)W113095275.5x3.589-584Tubeless Ready2C-MTB120FoldableBlack740


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Do they say tubeless ready though? Did the bead feel flexible like a kevlar tire? I'll check when I get home, but I'd be amazed if it were a 740g tire on a 1500 bike!


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

sandwich said:


> Do they say tubeless ready though? Did the bead feel flexible like a kevlar tire? I'll check when I get home, but I'd be amazed if it were a 740g tire on a 1500 bike!


You're a little hung up on the price. The chaoyang/ FBN has been one of the least expensive fat/plus tires on there market for almost 2 years.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

sandwich said:


> Do they say tubeless ready though? Did the bead feel flexible like a kevlar tire? I'll check when I get home, but I'd be amazed if it were a 740g tire on a 1500 bike!


You are correct, I am not 100% sure if they are tubeless ready. I can check too when i get home. I didn't take the whole tire off the rim so I didn't check thoroughly for a wire bead. It didn't seem like it though.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

tfinator said:


> You're a little hung up on the price. The chaoyang/ FBN has been one of the least expensive fat/plus tires on there market for almost 2 years.


Maybe, but this is a very common place to skimp on parts spec. I would be honestly shocked to see a bike at this price point with a narrow wide ring, clutch derailleur, plus wheels/tires, external BB, alloy cassette, as well as kevlar tires. I guess it's possible, but it's sort of like finding out the seat rails are also titanium, the chain is XTR level, the hubs are high engagement, the spokes are double butted, etc. These are all places that MFGs shave spec so they can put more obvious high end spec on their bikes.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Maybe this is some kind of marketing stunt. Have us advocate and sell the bikes for Diamondback. They save on advertising and distribution


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> Maybe this is some kind of marketing stunt. Have us advocate and sell the bikes for Diamondback. They save on advertising and distribution


It's worked so far. Combined we've gotten what, 4 purchases?

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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

I also own a Century disc that I got for a wicked deal from Jenson. There's so much value in these bikes it's silly. The century wasn't half as nicely specced as the mason though.


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## Malthraxian (Jun 24, 2016)

I got my Mason Pro yesterday. Got a sweet discount through work. Thing is killer from the brief ride around the block I did. Only problem I have right now is the KS lev dropper post is too high for me at it's lowest point. I'm 5'10 and so I'm either maxed on the medium or low end of the large frame. So I went large... Hoping my shoes will compensate cause it's just a tad bit high. Will post further later.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Add one more if still available next week, I'm debating between med and large. I'm in between sizes.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Jatrma said:


> Add one more if still available next week, I'm debating between med and large. I'm in between sizes.


I am ordering mine either this Wednesday night or Thursday morning

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Any advice on frame size? 
I new to MTB and not sure what to order. 
I'm a hair over 5'9" with a 31" inseam (measured barefoot) 

Right now I ride a junk 29er, when I borrow my buddies 26" medium diamondback I feel more upright and more comfortable. Both are considered a medium but his has a much shorter top tube.


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## Spokey-Doke (Apr 4, 2005)

I just ordered mine an hour ago. Should be a fun bike.

I'm 5-10 with a 32" inseam and went with the large. It has similar geo to a number of my large bikes.


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## kovarpa (Aug 13, 2006)

How much does the Mason Trail weigh? I am very intrigued, I could use this to get into bikepacking!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I was wondering how long did it take fir it to get to your house once you order the bike. I live N. California 

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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

kovarpa said:


> How much does the Mason Trail weigh? I am very intrigued, I could use this to get into bikepacking!


It was mentioned a few times earlier in the thread. In stock form its about 27.2 lbs for medium frame.



Daholla77 said:


> I was wondering how long did it take fir it to get to your house once you order the bike. I live N. California
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Also mentioned early in the thread. It took 3 business days from OH to MI. Not sure if they have more distribution centers. Should take less than a week.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Jatrma said:


> Any advice on frame size?
> I new to MTB and not sure what to order.
> I'm a hair over 5'9" with a 31" inseam (measured barefoot)
> 
> Right now I ride a junk 29er, when I borrow my buddies 26" medium diamondback I feel more upright and more comfortable. Both are considered a medium but his has a much shorter top tube.


I'm about the same as you, but a tad taller. I'm just shy of 5'10". I ordered the medium last night. Can't wait to get it!


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

flyinb501 said:


> I'm about the same as you, but a tad taller. I'm just shy of 5'10". I ordered the medium last night. Can't wait to get it!


I talked with Kevin via chat on diamondbacks website, he suggested I go with the medium. He also said he believes it will be available at this price through July. 
I'm just waiting on an insurance check to hit and I'll be ordering mine.

Coming from what I ride now this is going to change my life.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Checked the tires on my personal bike, they are printed with H-5176 on them.

This page: CHAOYANG Bicycle Tires-Big Daddy lists H5176 or H5176TR as model numbers. I'm guessing that means these aren't the "Tubeless ready" tires. That leaves either a single compound wire bead or two dual compound tires. Tough to tell by hand whether the factory tires are dual compound, but by the dirt pickup, I'm going with no.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Does anyone know if this bike is compatible with a dropper seat post?


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

Got mine a couple of days ago. Overall this bike is a steal at $750. Fit was great out of the box (6'-0", 32" inseam, bought the large). Excellent handling, great shifting, and the super wide handlebars were surprisingly comfortable. I even like the stock saddle. The Tektro brakes are the worst component by far. Stopping power is ok but the modulation is terrible. First wave of changes will be brakes (slx probably) and tubeless setup, then maybe new rims and/or wheels. Hub engagement is definitely on the slow side compared to my Stan's 3.3s. BTW, my main ride is a Salsa Spearfish, and the Mason will be a great change of pace bike.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I pull the trigger and I order one last nightin large.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

flyinb501 said:


> Does anyone know if this bike is compatible with a dropper seat post?


yes, it is of course. top end models come from the factory with some.

Whether it's compatible with internally routed posts is another question. There is a port on the BACK side of the seat tube, but there is no routing to that port. There are bolts on the underside of the downtube which could theoretically be used to hold cable guides, but the cable would have to take a pretty gnarly turn to get back into that port.

I think the best option would be a KS Lev or other collar-mounted dropper post. There is a ton of space for routing a dropper along the upper cable guides.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

Well add another to the list just ordered a large. Plus some tubeless stuff and a new fox hydration pack from Jenson. Pretty stocked to ride my first tubless bike. Should be a huge step up from my 2005 Raleigh m80


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## Spokey-Doke (Apr 4, 2005)

I ordered mine Tuesday night and received it this afternoon. Less than three days to Northern California. Apparently there is a west coast distribution center in SoCal.

The bike went together quite well and I am impressed with what I got for $750. Normally I start replacing parts immediately (I have an unused XT 11-speed group with nowhere to go) but I decided I am going to ride it as-is for a while. I want to see if it can hold up to some abuse.

This is by far the most slack head angle I have had. It will be interesting to see how the Mason handles compared to my Yelli Screamy (~68 degrees).


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Hi, new guy here. Looking to get back into things after a long hiatus. Had been drooling over some Airbornes, but saw this thread and the price for the trail and it piqued my curiosity. Also found the Mason is only a few hundred more on Amazon with a Reba. I guess my concern with the DB is the crazy fork angle and how it handles on pavement. I'very got a 3 year old and will be towing him around a good bit of the time. I'm also in Delaware, so downhills are minor.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I'd get this anyway even though you're in Delaware. Plus tires make a hardtail ride softer with more comfort. You won't have a problem steering the bike on pavement at the speeds you'll be riding. The Raidon has a no maintenance sealed damper like a car shock. The Reba is open bath. So oil changes are necessary over time. And the dampers it comes with aren't that good. If they had a Fox 34 for the $250 more that would be different.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

TripleTune said:


> Hi, new guy here. Looking to get back into things after a long hiatus. Had been drooling over some Airbornes, but saw this thread and the price for the trail and it piqued my curiosity. Also found the Mason is only a few hundred more on Amazon with a Reba. I guess my concern with the DB is the crazy fork angle and how it handles on pavement. I'very got a 3 year old and will be towing him around a good bit of the time. I'm also in Delaware, so downhills are minor.


I don't see the slack head tube angle as being any problem for pavement riding. If anything, it will track straighter on open roads.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

I'd been eying this bike simply as a backup and a "horse for the course" for different trails. I want a Torrent but the 7.2 w similar build is about 2x at retail. This thread turned me on to this bike and great price point. Regardless i would dump the Raidon for a better fork, upgrade brakes, wide range 10spd cassette, single ring, dropper post etc... so when all said and done - I'm still looking at $1500 but decent build.

On amazon, Diamondback has the Comp on sales. in Medium its 1599 but does have a Fox34 w fit4 damper, better brakes, drivetrain and dropper post. It's likely the smarter buy based on upgrades Id make. IF a small were an option, they have the comp for an incredible price just under $1200 and Prime shipping!! Gonna keep an eye out for next weeks "prime days" and see if the Medium comp will come down in price.

For $750 - the trail really is a steal in comparo to the rest of the options that are comparable.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

What tire pressure are you guys running?


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Thank you. All good insight. My issue now is seeing all the available diamondbacks. So last question on the this vs that topic and then i'my done. Mason trail vs overdrive comp?


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

TripleTune said:


> Mason trail vs overdrive comp?


The OD Comp is a useless(in a ht) straight 27.5. The Mason can run 29, 29+ front or 27.5+ which are close to 29 in diameter. 
The Comp is a noob first bike and the Mason is a multi-season next bike.


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Well ****, I don't wanna look like a noob. Time to commit I guess. This diamondback thing is still so new to me. Checked out their road bikes and kids bikes. Looks like some good value and with the amazon sales things can be here in 2 days. Again, thanks for the input with questions that have probably been posted 100 times already.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

TripleTune said:


> Well ****, I don't wanna look like a noob. Time to commit I guess. This diamondback thing is still so new to me. Checked out their road bikes and kids bikes. Looks like some good value and with the amazon sales things can be here in 2 days. Again, thanks for the input with questions that have probably been posted 100 times already.


The Mason Trail is 750 with free ship no tax.
Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail

Put the order in at Amazon and then call CS to get a price match.
https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Bicycles-Mason-Trail-Mountain/dp/B01FKZBACQ


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> The Mason Trail is 750 with free ship no tax.
> Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail
> 
> Put the order in at Amazon and then call CS to get a price match.
> https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Bicycles-Mason-Trail-Mountain/dp/B01FKZBACQ


No tax unless you are in california

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> The Mason Trail is 750 with free ship no tax.
> Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail
> 
> Put the order in at Amazon and then call CS to get a price match.
> https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Bicycles-Mason-Trail-Mountain/dp/B01FKZBACQ


What's CS?

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> What's CS?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Customer service likely

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## dsgcobra (Apr 18, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> What's CS?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


CS = customer service

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Gotcha, it wouldn't have saved me because I live California and we have to pay taxes on Internet sales over a certain amount. It would have came out the same for me.

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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Screw you guys. I hope someone is getting a cut for all these sales. Ordered mine. We'll see how it goes. I'm anxious to get back on two pedals. Thanks for this thread. Happy 4th!


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> No tax unless you are in california
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Texas also has sales tax, I'm guess there is a distribution center in Texas.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

TripleTune said:


> Screw you guys. I hope someone is getting a cut for all these sales. Ordered mine. We'll see how it goes. I'm anxious to get back on two pedals. Thanks for this thread. Happy 4th!


Scrapmetal nor I have received any royalty checks. We are open to donations though. 

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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Hopefully the moral satisfaction of creating a cult is enough. Double root canal and this bike have wiped me out. I do appreciate all the advice though.


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## KDOG72 (Jun 14, 2016)

Wow, great write up! I JUST bought this bike 5 days ago at the sale price. I'm digging it so far. 
Question: how do you adjust fork rebound? I didn't even know you could do that and mine seem kinda stiff.










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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

KDOG72 said:


> Wow, great write up! I JUST bought this bike 5 days ago at the sale price. I'm digging it so far.
> Question: how do you adjust fork rebound? I didn't even know you could do that and mine seem kinda stiff.
> 
> 
> ...


Should be a little red knob on the right side fork lower. The rebound on my raidon only made very subtle differences. Your air pressure in the fork will have the biggest impact.

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## KDOG72 (Jun 14, 2016)

Ok I see it.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

KDOG72 said:


> Ok I see it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Your pressure will have more of an impact on "stiffness" though

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## KDOG72 (Jun 14, 2016)

I'll have to look into it. I'd like my forks to give a little more. 

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

KDOG72 said:


> I'll have to look into it. I'd like my forks to give a little more.


When you drop your front tire pressure down from 30 to 12 you'll add a lot of softness to the ride. Benefit of wide.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I was wondering should I put it together my self or take it to my friends shop? I have to pay 100 dollars if I take it to my friends shop. Or should I just do it myself. I change the oil in my car and I have changed the spark plugs quite often. So I have some mechanical know how. The only thing I am worried about is setting the shocks.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

You can watch some vids about Airborne and BikeDirect on Youtube. It's easy if you have a multi-tool. You'll need to buy a shock pump for periodic use. and to change the psi to get it where it works.
You won't have difficulties, because there are vids on everything.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

I just ordered mine!!!

Hope it makes it here before the weekend


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Ordered mine in a patriotic frenzy of beer and shark week Monday and just got shipping confirmation for Thursday delivery. With that logic, yours should be in Friday. 
**** just got real. Already ordered a new helmet and fork pump. This thing is like a free puppy.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

KDOG72 said:


> I'll have to look into it. I'd like my forks to give a little more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Do you have a shock pump?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Can you use a regular airpump with a shrader valve on it. To use for your shock pump.

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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

ordered mine Friday and it showed up at my door today. Only problem is it's still on the truck being no one was home to sign for it.
*Dahola *you will need a pump designed just for air shocks and forks can be picked up anywhere from 20 to 40 bucks


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

TripleTune said:


> Ordered mine in a patriotic frenzy of beer and shark week Monday and just got shipping confirmation for Thursday delivery. With that logic, yours should be in Friday.
> **** just got real. Already ordered a new helmet and fork pump. This thing is like a free puppy.


Nothing better than patriotism, beer and shark week all mixed together.

I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas morning. 
I do need a budget shock pump. I had a hard enough time convincing the wife I "needed" the bike. 
Any recommendations?


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

I got the dreaded "do what you want." So I did. I'm all for frequenting the lbs. The bike line by me has some good employees. Beyond that, i'm cheap and Amazon has anything i could ever need. $90 helmet for $24. Sure. The fox Racing fork pump was $25. I'm no expert, i'm merely jumping on the bandwagon.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

I hate that response, so I opted just to order the RockShox pump and some valve stems so I can go tubeless at initial setup.. I mean whats another $50.....right?


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## ryoung035 (Feb 3, 2015)

I am placing my order tomorrow when I get off work. Super stoked! Been riding on my 2011 giant revel for 2 years now. Ready for an upgrade!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Ain't she pretty

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

What would be a good chain ring size to go up too. I know the current one is 30T trying to debate whether to go a larger ring or go to a 2x10. thanks


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> What would be a good chain ring size to go up too. I know the current one is 30T trying to debate whether to go a larger ring or go to a 2x10. thanks


That would depend on where you ride, how strong you are, etc.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Curveball said:


> That would depend on where you ride, how strong you are, etc.


Dirt rodes, streets, some hills. Kind of just starting out out.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> Dirt rodes, streets, some hills. Kind of just starting out out.


I wouldn't change anything. Ride it for 3-4 months and then decide if you need a bigger range or what.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

It would be my luck that my bike would come with something wrong, it's really minor but still annoying. Screw is bent and the inside nut turns with it. Anyone even know what the point of these screws are?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Thabreit said:


> It would be my luck that my bike would come with something wrong, it's really minor but still annoying. Screw is bent and the inside nut turns with it. Anyone even know what the point of these screws are?


They're either for a mud guard or bottle cages. Isn't it a frame boss though, as in the threaded portion is the portion you see the screw going into?

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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Sorry to hear about that screw. Off topic, thank you getting a close up of the colors. Love the gray and blue, but wanted to debadge. Looks like i'll have to just print up some lime green.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> They're either for a mud guard or bottle cages. Isn't it a frame boss though, as in the threaded portion is the portion you see the screw going into?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Didn't know what the name of it was. Yes it's the nutsert or frame boss that spins when turn the screw so it won't come out. Found a good video on how to fix it if anyone else has this problem. 



 Going to contact CS and see if They can get me a new color matched nutsert.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Thabreit said:


> It would be my luck that my bike would come with something wrong, it's really minor but still annoying. Screw is bent and the inside nut turns with it. Anyone even know what the point of these screws are?


Hate to hear about your issue, those are the type of things that normally happen to me. Good luck getting it fixed.

I was hoping mine would be here Friday but according to tracking it's scheduled to arrive Monday. 
I assumed it would ship from Texas since I was charged sales tax but it's coming from Ohio.


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## hhjj134 (Jul 9, 2014)

Hey guys, any of you are short like me 5'4? 
I am concerning the stand over height as the size guide shows even a small frame has 775mm stand over.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

You guys are a bad influence. I'm becoming tempted.


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## Biker833 (Jul 6, 2016)

I have the Mason Pro and routed my dropper on those screws there were cable route tabs that these screwed held down. I ran down under the BB and up the underside of the down tube. I later changed to shortening the cable and rerouting on the top tube


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Thabreit said:


> Didn't know what the name of it was. Yes it's the nutsert or frame boss that spins when turn the screw so it won't come out. Found a good video on how to fix it if anyone else has this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Going to contact CS and see if They can get me a new color matched nutsert.


I actually never thought these were reparable. I thought they were always brazed in.

Thanks for the info, a friend's bike has this issue and now I can fix it for her!


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

A couple questions to all the Mason Trail owners, how much do the stock tires weigh and how durable are they?


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

FedEx delivered the bike today. The box barely fit in the Jeep. Got it home and opened up...and that's it so far. Initial impressions, which are admittedly biased at this point, and purely based on looks, is more than I expected. I thought I would want to remove all the badging, but I like it. The subtle gray Diamondback across the top bar was a nice touch. Now I can't wait to get it together and out for a spin.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

TripleTune said:


> FedEx delivered the bike today. The box barely fit in the Jeep. Got it home and opened up...and that's it so far. Initial impressions, which are admittedly biased at this point, and purely based on looks, is more than I expected. I thought I would want to remove all the badging, but I like it. The subtle gray Diamondback across the top bar was a nice touch. Now I can't wait to get it together and out for a spin.


Congrats but you're killing me man, mine won't be here till Monday.


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

djembe975 said:


> A couple questions to all the Mason Trail owners, how much do the stock tires weigh and how durable are they?


I've ridden mine now five times, all rocky and rooted trails here in San Antonio and have had no issues whatsoever.

BTW, I'm a complete noobie-hack who runs over things I shouldn't. I'd say they're durable enough.

I'm too fat to care how much the tires weigh. Hope this helps.


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Jatrma said:


> Congrats but you're killing me man, mine won't be here till Monday.


Thanks man. If it's any consolation, it will probably be Monday before I get to ride mine. 
The box smells like baby angels and fresh rubber...with just the right dollop of grease. I love it. It's like that new shoe smell, but better.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

TripleTune said:


> Thanks man. If it's any consolation, it will probably be Monday before I get to ride mine.
> The box smells like baby angels and fresh rubber...with just the right dollop of grease. I love it. It's like that new shoe smell, but better.


Make sure to grease your axels my rear didn't have much if any on it.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Has anybody tried a 27.5+ x3.0 on the Mason's rims? I having a ***** of a time trying to find 27.5+x3.5.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> Has anybody tried a 27.5+ x3.0 on the Mason's rims? I having a ***** of a time trying to find 27.5+x3.5.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Their 3.5 measure at 2.8 anyway.

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## Biker833 (Jul 6, 2016)

I put Maxxis chronicles on my Mason Pro. Those tires are by no means aggressively knobby and with the slightest wheel flex I was getting rub on both sides at the top of the triangle. I had to Switch to a 2.8 again. The stock Bridger tire in the back lasted me about 5 rides with all the rocky terrain in the northeast of PA. So I have the Maxxis 3.0 on front and got a nobby nic with sidewall protection for the rear in 2.8. I spoke to DB and the bike is set up for 3.0 in the rear but I cannot see how with such limited clearance. I mean it is really tight.


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## KDOG72 (Jun 14, 2016)

Well I aired down at the suggestion of some here. I can see why. It certainly takes the jolt out of rocks, roots and hard bumps. I have a compact air pump that works with the presta fittings so I can air back up as needed. I'm getting ready to go back out on the trails again. 
Love this bike so far!

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

KDOG72 said:


> Well I aired down at the suggestion of some here. I can see why. It certainly takes the jolt out of rocks, roots and hard bumps. I have a compact air pump that works with the presta fittings so I can air back up as needed. I'm getting ready to go back out on the trails again.
> Love this bike so far!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Around 15 psi or a touch lower seems to be the sweet spot for most plus tires.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Unit91MS said:


> Around 15 psi or a touch lower seems to be the sweet spot for most plus tires.


No.
It varies front to rear and by rider weight and with terrain and speed. It also changes based on your rim width. 12psi front for me. More for the rear.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> No.
> It varies front to rear and by rider weight and with terrain and speed. 12psi front for me. More for the rear.


Notice how I said for most.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Unit91MS said:


> Notice how I said for most.


There is no most. Notice the NO.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> There is no most. Notice the NO.


Feel free to go average the pressures in the post your plus pressures thread. I'm in no way saying everyone should run 15 psi front and rear. I was mearly commenting on the seemingly median point people tend to prefer. Personally I run 13f 15r or 12f 14r depending on terrain with my 3.0 and I'm 250 lbs. Everyone's results will vary.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Unit91MS said:


> Personally I run 13f 15r or 12f 14r depending on terrain with my 3.0 and I'm 250 lbs. Everyone's results will vary.


Now that is a good post. What id rims?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> Now that is a good post. What id rims?


I assume you mean width? Scraper i45. 45mm internal width.

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Unit91MS said:


> I assume you mean width? Scraper i45. 45mm internal width.


Thanks.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I figure out the 3.5 thing it is the circumference of the tread or contact patch. So measuring from one side of the tread to the other it comes out to 3.5.

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## ryoung035 (Feb 3, 2015)

Just ordered mine. Super stoked. Judging by some of the posts, it seems like it should be pretty straight forward to put it together right? I really dont have much tools and not really mechanically sound haha. We shall see


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## Zac'teryx (Jul 8, 2016)

Great write up! I'm looking to get back into trail riding and gathering info before making a purchase. Been out of the game for a long time. I joined this site yesterday and this is the first thread I opened lol! Think it's a sign?


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## oldredbeard63 (Jul 9, 2016)

My Mason Trail was delivered yesterday. Just getting into biking and have a noob question. How do i remove the rear wheel with no dropouts? I can't for the life of me figure this out. Also, is it the norm now to have the front brake as the right side lever? That's how the bike was delivered. Thanks.


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

oldredbeard63 said:


> My Mason Trail was delivered yesterday. Just getting into biking and have a noob question. How do i remove the rear wheel with no dropouts? I can't for the life of me figure this out. Also, is it the norm now to have the front brake as the right side lever? That's how the bike was delivered. Thanks.


The Mason's wheel use thru-axles instead of QRs. Open the release on the left side, unscrew it several turns, then pull it out. Then you can take your wheel out. On the right side there is a nut with a flattened side that sets into the frame, and this is what the axle screws into. I keep knocking it out accidentally when I slide the axel back in, but it's no problem to put back into place. Just tighten the axle and close the release and your good to go.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

oldredbeard63 said:


> My Mason Trail was delivered yesterday. Just getting into biking and have a noob question. How do i remove the rear wheel with no dropouts? I can't for the life of me figure this out. Also, is it the norm now to have the front brake as the right side lever? That's how the bike was delivered. Thanks.


Yup. Thru axle just like the other response says. And in America at least, the rear brake is on the right.

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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Anyone set up the stock tires tubeless? If so how have they held up?


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## oldredbeard63 (Jul 9, 2016)

Thanks for the replies about the thru axle. I am in the U.S. and still confused as to why the front brake is on the right lever on this bike... took it for a spin today. Really awesome bike! The brake setup will definitely take some time to get used to, but all works well. I'm enjoying wrenching and learning about my new bike.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

oldredbeard63 said:


> Thanks for the replies about the thru axle. I am in the U.S. and still confused as to why the front brake is on the right lever on this bike... took it for a spin today. Really awesome bike! The brake setup will definitely take some time to get used to, but all works well. I'm enjoying wrenching and learning about my new bike.


You can switch it around so it's right brake, rear wheel, or have the bike shop do it. It's a simple change. You don't want to make a mistake at the wrong moment. I've heard motos set up that way (apparently, some wrenches will set up a bike with disc brakes the same as motorcycles). I've seen threads before that talked about this. No, bikes are not set up opposite in the US. It's just that bike is backwards.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

djembe975 said:


> Anyone set up the stock tires tubeless? If so how have they held up?


Only have on trail ride on them so far but Good no burping or leaks at all. Running around 15 psi rear 14 front on rocky rooty western pa trails.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Was wondering if scrapmetal57 or anyone had good results with the upgrading the brake pads to deal with the brake issues? 
My bike will be here tomorrow and wondering if I should go ahead and order replacement pads.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

oldredbeard63 said:


> Thanks for the replies about the thru axle. I am in the U.S. and still confused as to why the front brake is on the right lever on this bike... took it for a spin today. Really awesome bike! The brake setup will definitely take some time to get used to, but all works well. I'm enjoying wrenching and learning about my new bike.


The two Mason Trails I've seen both have had the front brake on the left lever and rear brake on the right lever. Not sure why yours would've come backwards.


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## oldredbeard63 (Jul 9, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> The two Mason Trails I've seen both have had the front brake on the left lever and rear brake on the right lever. Not sure why yours would've come backwards.


Thanks for the info. I'll probably just ride it for now as everything seems to be working as it should. What's that saying... If it ain't broke don't fix it. :thumbsup:


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

How is this bike performing out on the trail?

Does it do well in steep and rough conditions?


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

oldredbeard63 said:


> Thanks for the info. I'll probably just ride it for now as everything seems to be working as it should. What's that saying... If it ain't broke don't fix it. :thumbsup:


I wouldn't be surprised if the brakes can be swapped just like a shimano. Look for a good article, but it's basically remove the caliper from the fork, squeeze the lever until it's compressed in slightly, then remove and swap the lines. tighten, spread the pads in the caliper.

I have done this multiple times on shimano brakes with very good results. I've even swapped complete lines with no problems.



Curveball said:


> How is this bike performing out on the trail?
> 
> Does it do well in steep and rough conditions?


it's a solid performer, the geometry is A+, but it's still a hardtail. It punches above it's weight/price, but it's still a $750 bike. You won't win any races, but it sure is fun to ride.


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Looks like we may have cleaned out the supply. Link on Dismondback's website for the $749.99 deal sends me to a 404 error. 
I still haven't ridden the bike enough, but for what it is, I'm happy. Upgrades will come as needed, but until then, at least I'm not on the same bike as everyone else.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Did you guys have to adjust the fork pressure out of the box? Just playing around inside my driveway and bouncing the front end up and down I'm feeling a little clunking. Almost sounds like it is coming from the fork rebounding.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

My seam like at it had to much air.

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

TripleTune said:


> Looks like we may have cleaned out the supply. Link on Dismondback's website for the $749.99 deal sends me to a 404 error.
> I still haven't ridden the bike enough, but for what it is, I'm happy. Upgrades will come as needed, but until then, at least I'm not on the same bike as everyone else.


Going to the link I had bookmarked I got the same error, but going to the home page and searching featured bikes it still comes up at $749.

I got mine today and got it all together. I only got to play in the yard a bit and it feels strange. This is my first plus sized bike so I guess it's just different. 
Hope to take it out tomorrow for a short ride on my local trails. It's supposed to be over 100° all week so if I do go it'll be a quick little test run.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

flyinb501 said:


> Did you guys have to adjust the fork pressure out of the box? Just playing around inside my driveway and bouncing the front end up and down I'm feeling a little clunking. Almost sounds like it is coming from the fork rebounding.


Yes I had to adjust the pressure, I'm a little fella and it had way to much air. I set it at 75 lbs I think.

And to confirm the earlier post about tubeless.. Yes it's that simple, I had zero problems getting it to seat.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

TripleTune said:


> Looks like we may have cleaned out the supply. Link on Dismondback's website for the $749.99 deal sends me to a 404 error.
> I still haven't ridden the bike enough, but for what it is, I'm happy. Upgrades will come as needed, but until then, at least I'm not on the same bike as everyone else.


Same. Happened sometime last night. Going to the store home and then browsing for the bike works.

I'm finally joining this trend I helped scrapmetal start, ordered a medium for my girlfriend. She's going to love the upgrade over what she's been riding.

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Here's a new working link for anyone who wants to jump on board 
Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail


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## imbabob (Nov 1, 2005)

The next level up Mason is on sale for $999. Not sure how long its been there just noticed.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Just spoke with them. This one works.

Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail

and the $999 Mason in black.
Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason


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## MiWolverine (Jun 15, 2009)

Hmm, maybe I'll hold out until the Mason Pro is offered at over half off.


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

Bollox. I was looking at the Mason too. Oh well. A few upgrades I probably wouldn't notice anyway. That and I like the gray and blue look.


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

The Mason for 999 is a smoking deal. X5 & X7 drive with a reba shock.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Chad_M said:


> The Mason for 999 is a smoking deal. X5 & X7 drive with a reba shock.


The Reba is worth it, I prefer the 1x the trail comes with. Deore is very good quality

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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

Unit91MS said:


> The Reba is worth it, I prefer the 1x the trail comes with. Deore is very good quality
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I like the 1x on the trail but I would have gone for the Mason at $1k if it had been at that price. Reba and Brakes would have been worth, but the Mason trail is still an awesome deal.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

no doubt if the pro shows up at half off in near future - it would be worth if for components/build alone...


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

I wish I would've held out for the Mason. Oh well, still very happy with my purchase and no issues to report, other than the brakes.

BTW, anyone install new pads and report their findings?

Thanks,
Jon D.


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

So is the consensus that the Mason is worth the extra $250 for the forks/brakes/drivetrain?


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## tom103 (Jul 15, 2016)

Well went to order the Mason Trail and they were out of stock on my size and they won't be in for another month. So I went with the Mason that's also on sale and it seems like a pretty darn good deal so I'm not that upset about it now it's the waiting game 

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

tom103 said:


> Well went to order the Mason Trail and they were out of stock on my size and they won't be in for another month. So I went with the Mason that's also on sale and it seems like a pretty darn good deal so I'm not that upset about it now it's the waiting game
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it's a great deal, I wish it was that price when I ordered my trail. Then again I'm 100% happy with my trail. 
I've only have a short outing on it but it was a blast to ride.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

It looks like you could attach another ring to the inside of the crack to make the bike a 2 x 10. What would you guys think would be the proper size ring ? Thank you


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

Just ordered the Mason, and a fork pump/bottomless tokens from Jenson. I'll post some pictures when I get everything!


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> It looks like you could attach another ring to the inside of the crack to make the bike a 2 x 10. What would you guys think would be the proper size ring ? Thank you


You'll need some spacers, I'd think, as the chain-like will be awful.

I don't know what the current gearing is, so I can't tell you what to put on, but I think 36/26 is pretty common.

If the existing chain ring is narrow wide, then it's going to be very difficult shift with.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

tfinator said:


> You'll need some spacers, I'd think, as the chain-like will be awful.
> 
> If the existing chain ring is narrow wide, then it's going to be very difficult shift with.


The chainline isn't an issue if you're only using the small chairing with the 3-4 biggest cogs (the way it's meant to be), just imagine a 3x10 drive train where the biggest chainring is missing.

You cannot shift a narrow wide chaining but you could still mount the small chainring without any front derailleur and shift it manually as sort of a bailout gear


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Steel Calf said:


> The chainline isn't an issue if you're only using the small chairing with the 3-4 biggest cogs (the way it's meant to be), just imagine a 3x10 drive train where the biggest chainring is missing.
> 
> You cannot shift a narrow wide chaining but you could still mount the small chainring without any front derailleur and shift it manually as sort of a bailout gear


Yeah. I was getting it backwards, he'd have the lowest low gears, but by mid cassette would likely need to shift it back up.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Steel Calf said:


> The chainline isn't an issue if you're only using the small chairing with the 3-4 biggest cogs (the way it's meant to be), just imagine a 3x10 drive train where the biggest chainring is missing.
> 
> You cannot shift a narrow wide chaining but you could still mount the small chainring without any front derailleur and shift it manually as sort of a bailout gear


So you would say probably better off getting a front derailleur and a new crank?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> So you would say probably better off getting a front derailleur and a new crank?


Why do you want a front derailleur? As someone very hesitant to leave 2x10, I wouldn't ever go back. 11-40 and 30t is perfect gearing in my opinion.

My girlfriends' arrived today and built it up. She loves it so far. First trail ride on it tomorrow. I get 29.6 pounds for a medium sans reflectors with tubes still in and race face Chester pedals on my scale that is known to be pretty accurate. Quite a bit higher than scrapmetal weighed his in at

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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Daholla77 said:


> So you would say probably better off getting a front derailleur and a new crank?


never


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> So you would say probably better off getting a front derailleur and a new crank?


If you're that worried about it, you're better off spending the $250 to get the next higher model that comes 2x. Cause then you'll also get a better fork, etc.

If you already have the 1x version, then maybe just going to a 28 from the 30 up front would okay.

How much time have you put on the bike?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

tfinator said:


> If you're that worried about it, you're better off spending the $250 to get the next higher model that comes 2x. Cause then you'll also get a better fork, etc.
> 
> If you already have the 1x version, then maybe just going to a 28 from the 30 up front would okay.
> 
> How much time have you put on the bike?


A couple of days, I was just thinking more torque when going up hills.

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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> A couple of days, I was just thinking more torque when going up hills.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I would ride it ten or so times before you make any big changes.

If you need that bail out gear on long climbs or long days I get it.

If your hills are technical, then being in a low gear will make it harder most of the time.

But, different strokes as they say...


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

tfinator said:


> I would ride it ten or so times before you make any big changes.
> 
> If you need that bail out gear on long climbs or long days I get it.
> 
> ...


Changing to the sun race 11-42 cassette would be an option as well

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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

My Mason Trail arrived yesterday, got it assembled, and installed a DNM dropper. I was having an issue with the derailleur not getting the chain all the way onto the largest cog, it was also contacting the top couple cogs. Tonight I adjusted the B Position and dug into the limit issue. The screws ended up being effectively all the way out, and it still didn't quite work right, so I ran the screw back in some, and checked the cable tension. I ran the barrel adjuster all the way in, and took the slack out of the cable at the cinch bolt. It immediately started working better, I brought the barrel adjuster out a couple clicks, and it hit the sweet spot. I can't wait to get it on the trails. Of course it rained tonight, so I will probably have to wait a day or two more. 









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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

Good luck with the new ride. I picked one up a few weeks ago and have put a couple hundred miles on. Will convert to tubeless later this week. A couple observations/thoughts/suggestions: 

- Stock shock is not bad for the trails around my home (lots of roots and rocks) and it only took a couple minutes to dial it in (needed to lower air pressure because it was set pretty high). I still regret not getting the next model up because the RS on the next model up and the brakes are much better than the Trail model. Unfortunately the standard Mason was not on sale when I picked up mine. 

- Brake rotors were a bit warped out of the box and needed truing (thankfully my neighbor had a Park truing tool and was able to get them straight). 

- Cable management out of the box is not good. I suggest taking off the right shifter and re-routing the cables around the left side (both brake and shift cables). It looks cleaner and doesn't rub against your shock crown. Eventually, dirty cables rubbing against shock crown will wear away paint. Not sure why it comes this way because all pictures have cables routed around the left side. 

- Tire pressure (with tubes) seems to work well around 15 for front, 17 or so in the rear. I'm going to see how low I can go when it's tubeless. Stock tires are very similar to Pararacer Fat B Nimble which is not a bad thing. I like the size and traction is pretty good on dirt, mud and loose gravel. Also rode on some sandy soil and traction was surprisingly good. 

Overall, the Mason Trail is a really good bargain for $750. I like the 1x10 drivetrain and shifting (after some minor adjustments) is pretty good. I'm on the lookout for a Fox or RS replacement shock in the near future but plan to ride the Raidon until it gives up the ghost. Next upgrade will be brakes. The stock brakes are acceptable but I prefer Shimano and you can get a decent set of 640 Zee's for not a lot of money. 

The Mason geometry makes downhill rides really fun and the semi-fat tires are fast and give enough cushion on rough terrain to put a smile on your face. The stock bars are really wide and it took me a while to get used to them. I was thinking about cutting off a half inch on each side but decided to keep them long because they do provide more stability on rough down-hill rides. 

After riding this bike for a few hundred miles, I borrowed my friend's older MTB with 26" wheels and a ~70 degree head tube angle. It felt very strange, because my weight was positioned way forward. The tighter wheelbase and geometry of the 26" was more agile but very scary on down hill runs and I found myself missing the cush of the fat tires. Looking forward to taking this bike to some challenging (for me!) technical downhill trails soon. I live in the midwest and challenging technical downhill opportunities are very rare. Lastly, the Mason climbs better than i expected, for a 30+lb bike. Even with the weight savings of going tubeless, this is no weight weenie bike, but the gearing and excellent traction make it not bad in this area.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Just ordered my trail. Damn you internet! Too good of a deal to pass up. 

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## dsgcobra (Apr 18, 2016)

I was wondering if anyone could give some sizing help. I had an XL Overdrive sport. The frame size was 22" and the stand over was listed at 32.5". When I stood over the bike my man parts where more than resting on the top tube almost being pushed up by it. I'm 6'1" with a 33" in seem. 

As a side not I'm looking to get into some mtb races not highly competitive but more for fun. Would the trail be a capable bike for this? And would it be possible to put 27.5s on it or would the BB be getting lowered to much? 



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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Jackman65 said:


> - Cable management out of the box is not good. I suggest taking off the right shifter and re-routing the cables around the left side (both brake and shift cables). It looks cleaner and doesn't rub against your shock crown. Eventually, dirty cables rubbing against shock crown will wear away paint. Not sure why it comes this way because all pictures have cables routed around the left side.
> .


This... I just rerouted my shifter cable this weekend after noticing it rubbing some of the paint off the fork.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

dsgcobra said:


> I had an XL Overdrive sport. The frame size was 22" and the stand over was listed at 32.5". When I stood over the bike my man parts where more than resting on the top tube almost being pushed up by it. I'm 6'1" with a 33" in seem.


Too big of a frame. Not much can be done about that. Going to 27.5" tires would work, and you'll probably gain about 3/4", but you will lower the bottom bracket some. Almost guaranteed to hit pedals with 27.5" wheels if your ride trails though. IMO, for the cost of some 27.5" wheels, I'd rather get a large frame and swap the parts over, or sell the XL bike and buy a new bike. Might find someone local to you that's willing to trade either complete bike or just the frame. No harm in asking around.


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## dsgcobra (Apr 18, 2016)

watts888 said:


> Too big of a frame. Not much can be done about that. Going to 27.5" tires would work, and you'll probably gain about 3/4", but you will lower the bottom bracket some. Almost guaranteed to hit pedals with 27.5" wheels if your ride trails though. IMO, for the cost of some 27.5" wheels, I'd rather get a large frame and swap the parts over, or sell the XL bike and buy a new bike. Might find someone local to you that's willing to trade either complete bike or just the frame. No harm in asking around.


I did sell the Overdrive and looking at the the mason now. And just wondering about frame sizing. How tall and what inseem others are and what size bike they got

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> Changing to the sun race 11-42 cassette would be an option as well
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Wouldn't I need a new shifter. If I went to a 11 speed?

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> My Mason Trail arrived yesterday, got it assembled, and installed a DNM dropper. I was having an issue with the derailleur not getting the chain all the way onto the largest cog, it was also contacting the top couple cogs. Tonight I adjusted the B Position and dug into the limit issue. The screws ended up being effectively all the way out, and it still didn't quite work right, so I ran the screw back in some, and checked the cable tension. I ran the barrel adjuster all the way in, and took the slack out of the cable at the cinch bolt. It immediately started working better, I brought the barrel adjuster out a couple clicks, and it hit the sweet spot. I can't wait to get it on the trails. Of course it rained tonight, so I will probably have to wait a day or two more.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did the same thing today I had the same problem with the chain rubbing on the upper rings.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> Wouldn't I need a new shifter. If I went to a 11 speed?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Still a 10 spd. Just a 42 instead of 40 up top.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> Still a 10 spd. Just a 42 instead of 40 up top.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I think that if I am going to change the cassette. I am going change it to a 11 Speed.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> I think that if I am going to change the cassette. I am going change it to a 11 Speed.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Then, you will need a new shifter and derailleur.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Has anybody put 27.5x3.0 tires on the Mason? I am thinking about switching to 3.0 due to the availability.

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## Biker833 (Jul 6, 2016)

I Have the Mason Pro and ran the stock wtb tires 2.8 for 5 rides until the sidewalls got too cut up due to no sidewall protection and the rocks around here. I switched to 3.0 maxxis chronicles for the front and rear. They are by no means knobby but the rear tire had significant rub at the top of the yoke and bottom of the triangle. This wa with very minimal wheel flex. I don't know how you can even run any 3.0 tire on this bike. I love everything about the bike but this let me down a little bit. I spoke to DB and they said it could take a 3.0 it was a costly trial and error. I put a nobby nic 2.8 on the rear as a fix


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Woah sorry everyone, I wasn't getting email notification about the thread and throught it was dead. I guess 8 pages and 197 replies say otherwise!

To answer some questions:



Jatrma said:


> Was wondering if scrapmetal57 or anyone had good results with the upgrading the brake pads to deal with the brake issues?
> My bike will be here tomorrow and wondering if I should go ahead and order replacement pads.


It apparently was a separate issue which I will discuss at the end of this post.
I finally did install the new brake pads and they seem to be awesome, but I haven't had the chance to ride on them yet. I am still not a fan of the levers and how far they move towards the handlebars. I took the calipers off and pushed the pistons out a little bit to get some better initial bite and that helped.



dsgcobra said:


> As a side not I'm looking to get into some mtb races not highly competitive but more for fun. Would the trail be a capable bike for this? And would it be possible to put 27.5s on it or would the BB be getting lowered to much?


Depending on your area, I'm sure there are MTB races all over. I am in SE Michigan and there are races every few weeks. We have a mix of competitive riders and complete novices. Some bigger races will even have different distances and classes to accommodate everyone. We also have some races that are more like giant group rides where they don't time you and feed you in the middle.
I would advise against going to 27.5. I would go to a 29 regular width wheel/tire before trying 27.5.



Daholla77 said:


> Wouldn't I need a new shifter. If I went to a 11 speed?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Similar to what many other people in this thread say, I would suggest leaving the bike as it is for a while and then upgrade if you truly feel it is necessary. When I ride I use maybe 3-4 gears total. You can make up a lot of gearing issues with strong legs! If you ride more I guarantee you will move to an opinion of wanting less gears. There is a reason some of the fastest MTB racers have singlespeeds... Plus this bike is very capable in stock form and it is much cheaper to upgrade yourself then upgrade the bike!


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

I have diagnosed the howling rear brakes and it turned out to be a loose or broken rotor bolt.
Replaced front and rear pads
Bedded in with 10 stops from 15mph to 5mph each brake separately
Removed rear rotor, noticed one bolt was loose
Sanded rotor to eliminate any pad deposit high spots
Installed rotor and when I went to tighten the bolts down this happened...


The head snapped right off.
Luckily I am a wizard and used a screw driver and hammer to reverse the shank and remove the bolt.



I replaced the bolt with an extra I had lying around.
Rode the bike around and there was no more noise!

I sent an email to DB letting them know what I found and they are going to send me a free shirt. 
So I encourage all of you to email DB if you have any actual issues with your bike. It seems like they are doing a great thing and rewarding their customers for trying to help the company out. I am an even bigger fan of Diamondback after this. Obviously don't abuse this, but it seems they are receptive to actual issues with their bikes.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

scrapmetal57 said:


> I have diagnosed the howling rear brakes and it turned out to be a loose or broken rotor bolt.
> Replaced front and rear pads
> Bedded in with 10 stops from 15mph to 5mph each brake separately
> Removed rear rotor, noticed one bolt was loose
> ...


Glad you got it all worked out, I only have about 20 trail miles on mine plus playing around in the yard but I haven't had any brake issues.

I was able to adjust the levers where I can one finger the brakes without hitting any other fingers.

Thanks for creating this thread
I don't know how many bikes were purchased because of your review but, I wouldn't have even known about this bike, not to mention the deep discount. I'm loving my Mason and will put it to the test in a couple of weeks when I take it up to Taos/Angel Fire for a little mtb vacation with my oldest son. Looking forward to riding real trails and getting out of this flat barren hot climate I call home.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Just confirming when I buy new tires skip the 3.0's and just go for the 2.8's? It will have the same look and feel right?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> Just confirming when I buy new tires skip the 3.0's and just go for the 2.8's? It will have the same look and feel right?


They will look and feel .2"smaller. Whether you notice is up to you.

The tread and casing of a tire will matter a lot more than a claimed .2" size difference


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Because people were saying true 3.0 tires won't fit, is that correct.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> Just confirming when I buy new tires skip the 3.0's and just go for the 2.8's? It will have the same look and feel right?


A true 2.8 will fit just like your current tires. The 3.5 actually measure 2.8 width outer knob to outer knob.

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## tom103 (Jul 15, 2016)

So I just took my Mason out last night for its first ride and I loved everything about it except for the saddle, can anyone recommend me a more comfortable one?


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

tom103 said:


> So I just took my Mason out last night for its first ride and I loved everything about it except for the saddle, can anyone recommend me a more comfortable one?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


WTB Pure V


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Because people were saying true 3.0 tires won't fit, is that correct.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I plan on 3.0 rocket rons front and back once I wear out the ¨imitation fat b nimble¨ tires. From what I hear the rr´s are 2.8 actual.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

tom103 said:


> So I just took my Mason out last night for its first ride and I loved everything about it except for the saddle, can anyone recommend me a more comfortable one?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't mind the saddle but the grips are killing me, even with gloves


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

Just received my Mason. Everything is looking good other than the cranks and BB. They are Shimano M627 cranks and SM-BB52 instead of the Raceface Ride specified on the Diamondback website. Investigating further it looks like none of Diamondbacks bikes use Shimano cranks?

Can anyone tell me if these are equivalent level parts? I tried googling around but couldn't find anything definitive.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

So add my name to the list of Mason Trail owners. Thanks for the info on this OP! I bought a much more expensive bike, of near equal quality, but with oldschool geometry. Will be returning it before I even bother riding it. Now I've got a good 500-600 extra for upgrades on the mason trail.

I was looking at getting a pair of WTB Scrapers (45 mm) and WTB Trail Boss tires. Can I reuse the DB spokes/hubs for those, or do I need to look at getting a new set of spokes/hubs? If so, can anyone recommend something affordable?

Cheers & thanks.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

ButtaYoBreadd said:


> Can anyone tell me if these are equivalent level parts? I tried googling around but couldn't find anything definitive.


Well, I can't really tell you, but from my quick price search, Race Face definitely costs more than the Shimano. That said, the Mason being just $250 more is still an awesome deal if you're looking for 2x10, better brakes, and a better fork. I chose the trail because I wanted a 1x platform and planned on replacing a few parts anyhow.


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## hwcn (Jul 31, 2010)

Does anyone have the frame weight in Medium?

Trying to pull the trigger on the Mason, but the hideous green rims are stopping me. I would buy the Comp in a heartbeat if it were on sale for around $1,300!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

hwcn said:


> Does anyone have the frame weight in Medium?
> 
> Trying to pull the trigger on the Mason, but the hideous green rims are stopping me. I would buy the Comp in a heartbeat if it were on sale for around $1,300!


The bare frame weight, I do not. The complete medium I weighed at 29.5 ish with reflectors removed and tubes in.

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

hwcn said:


> Does anyone have the frame weight in Medium?
> 
> Trying to pull the trigger on the Mason, but the hideous green rims are stopping me. I would buy the Comp in a heartbeat if it were on sale for around $1,300!


Aww come on, the hideous green is the best part. Just pull the trigger


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Does anyone plan on riding this bike in the winter? If so, what tires will you be running?

BTW, I've had my Mason Trail out twice now and loving it!


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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

I'm still a little upset I pulled the trigger too soon, before the regular Mason with RS fork went on sale. The fork alone makes the regular Mason a much better deal. The Raidon fork on the Trail is decent but it's not as serviceable as the RS (and i think it's heavier) and the Shimano brakes on the regular Mason (*the one for $1K) are probably better than the Tek's on the Trail. 

I'm not a fan of the green wheels but the bike is for riding, not a show-piece, so I'd be willing to live with it. Upgrading the Raidon is probably not an option for me at the moment because it has zero resale value and the RS I want to get is over $500, half the price of the new Mason on sale. I've already ridden the bike for at least a couple hundred miles and it is a blast on the trails. 

The modern geometry is much different than the old MTB's I've owned over the years. Downhill rides are so much fun, the brakes are a little squeaky but they stop well (mine has 180mm disks front and back, not 160 rear as stated in the specs), finally getting used to the wide bars, and the shifting is perfect. I bought new grips but have not installed them because I don't mind the stock grips. Lastly, the Chinese "Fat B Nimble" knockoffs are really nice. I wish these tires were available for purchase in the US because they are perfect for the trails I ride and I would rather not pay the $$$ for a set of Fats when these wear out. 

Purchasing the Mason was the best value, best MTB decision I have made. It might eventually morph into a gateway drug to more expensive models but, for now, I'm loving it. Might upgrade the brakes to Shimano Zee's if I find a good enough deal and might even go to 11 speed down the road. The first upgrades will be a good dropper post, tubeless and an Ergon saddle. I'm actually getting used to the original saddle and it's not too bad. The bike is heavy but climbs well because of the gearing and mad grip of the big tires.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Jackman65 said:


> I'm still a little upset I pulled the trigger too soon, before the regular Mason with RS fork went on sale. The fork alone makes the regular Mason a much better deal. The Raidon fork on the Trail is decent but it's not as serviceable as the RS (and i think it's heavier) and the Shimano brakes on the regular Mason (*the one for $1K) are probably better than the Tek's on the Trail.


To be honest, I think they're both equally good deals, and it really depends on what you want to upgrade, or not upgrade... and whether you enjoy 2x10 or 1x10. I'd say just consider the $250 saved towards a future fork upgrade if it's on your list.

Glad to hear you like the bike, still waiting for mine to arrive, then I'm taking it to the shop to build some new wheels/hubs. Do you know if the chinese knockoff tires can run tubeless on a 45mm? Was planning to buy some WTB's in either case. I'd say way for part sales come winter, then upgrade away


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

hwcn said:


> Does anyone have the frame weight in Medium?
> 
> Trying to pull the trigger on the Mason, but the hideous green rims are stopping me. I would buy the Comp in a heartbeat if it were on sale for around $1,300!





Jatrma said:


> Aww come on, the hideous green is the best part. Just pull the trigger





Jackman65 said:


> I'm not a fan of the green wheels but the bike is for riding, not a show-piece, so I'd be willing to live with it.


Aw I like my green rims


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

ButtaYoBreadd said:


> Just received my Mason. Everything is looking good other than the cranks and BB. They are Shimano M627 cranks and SM-BB52 instead of the Raceface Ride specified on the Diamondback website. Investigating further it looks like none of Diamondbacks bikes use Shimano cranks?
> 
> Can anyone tell me if these are equivalent level parts? I tried googling around but couldn't find anything definitive.


An update on this. Got in contact with Diamondback and they are sending me the correct Race Face Ride crankset. Only thing that sucks is I am out the cost to have my LBS install it :\


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

deviantek said:


> To be honest, I think they're both equally good deals, and it really depends on what you want to upgrade, or not upgrade... and whether you enjoy 2x10 or 1x10. I'd say just consider the $250 saved towards a future fork upgrade if it's on your list.
> 
> Glad to hear you like the bike, still waiting for mine to arrive, then I'm taking it to the shop to build some new wheels/hubs. Do you know if the chinese knockoff tires can run tubeless on a 45mm? Was planning to buy some WTB's in either case. I'd say way for part sales come winter, then upgrade away


It's funny that you called them Chinese knock offs. The only difference is that they don't have the label... They're coming from the same place as the panaracer.

Yes, they go tubeless just fine, although if they're wire bead sometimes that's more difficult


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

ButtaYoBreadd said:


> Aw I like my green rims


I wasn't bashing on the green, I'm digging on them. If I had the option I would have gone black/green on my trail.



ButtaYoBreadd said:


> An update on this. Got in contact with Diamondback and they are sending me the correct Race Face Ride crankset. Only thing that sucks is I am out the cost to have my LBS install it :\


Glad they're making it right.. If you have the proper tools installation should be relatively straight forward.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

tfinator said:


> It's funny that you called them Chinese knock offs. The only difference is that they don't have the label... They're coming from the same place as the panaracer.
> 
> Yes, they go tubeless just fine, although if they're wire bead sometimes that's more difficult


Well, I called them chinese knock offs only because everyone else has referred to them as such (directly quoting the person I replied to). Who said anything was wrong with chinese knock offs anyways? I always love a good deal. You ass-umed me to mean that they weren't as good as known brands?

Are they wire beaded then?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

deviantek said:


> Well, I called them chinese knock offs only because everyone else has referred to them as such (directly quoting the person I replied to). Who said anything was wrong with chinese knock offs anyways? I always love a good deal. You ass-umed me to mean that they weren't as good as known brands?
> 
> Are they wire beaded then?


It's ironic that you assumed that I assumed, when i didn't at all.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

tfinator said:


> It's ironic that you assumed that I assumed, when i didn't at all.


Interesting... Then why would one of such high stature point out a quote about Chinese knock-off's and then make a defensive statement about said tires? Anywho, I'll entertain your chivalry, and now challenge you to a duel of wordsmiths...._TO MENTAL FATIGUE DEATH._


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

deviantek said:


> Interesting... Then why would one of such high stature point out a quote about Chinese knock-off's and then make a defensive statement about said tires? Anywho, I'll entertain your chivalry, and now challenge you to a duel of wordsmiths...._TO MENTAL FATIGUE DEATH._


I don't get it.

So anyone know if these are wire bead?


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

I believe the op said they are folding, would have to dig back into this thread to find it.


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## jayrock2000 (Jul 24, 2016)

I believe both the mason and the mason trail are sold out at the low price. I just tried to purchase one and both the sale prices were gone.


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

They still show up for me. You need to look at "featured bikes"under "shop " in the menu.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

jayrock2000 said:


> I believe both the mason and the mason trail are sold out at the low price. I just tried to purchase one and both the sale prices were gone.


http://shop.diamondback.com/mason-trail

Diamondback Bikes - Hardtail - Mason


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Does anybody know of a list of companies that make 148 boost cranks and chain rings that fit the mason trail. Been looking but can't seem to find them. Thanks Derrick


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## jayrock2000 (Jul 24, 2016)

Odogg79 said:


> They still show up for me. You need to look at "featured bikes"under "shop " in the menu.


Thank you, i have it now


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## jayrock2000 (Jul 24, 2016)

Anyone have an opinion on purchasing the Mason trail vs the Mason. The way I see it, its a toss up between the 1 x 10 on the Mason trail vs the Rockshox fork and the better brakes on the Mason. Any help would be appreciated, I would like to get this ordered soon.


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

jayrock2000 said:


> Anyone have an opinion on purchasing the Mason trail vs the Mason. The way I see it, its a toss up between the 1 x 10 on the Mason trail vs the Rockshox fork and the better brakes on the Mason. Any help would be appreciated, I would like to get this ordered soon.


I went with the mason personally. For the better tires, double wall rims, fork, and brakes it seemed like it was worth the extra coin.


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

jayrock2000 said:


> Anyone have an opinion on purchasing the Mason trail vs the Mason. The way I see it, its a toss up between the 1 x 10 on the Mason trail vs the Rockshox fork and the better brakes on the Mason. Any help would be appreciated, I would like to get this ordered soon.


Really wouldn't be hard or too expensive to make the Mason a 1x10. All you need is a ring and a cassette.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Odogg79 said:


> Really wouldn't be hard or too expensive to make the Mason a 1x10. All you need is a ring and a cassette.


Arguably it'd be as easy for the trail to have a nicer rockshox

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## tom103 (Jul 15, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Arguably it'd be as easy for the trail to have a nicer rockshox
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Maybe but also breaks tires ect on the Mason are better.

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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I'd spend the extra $ for the Trail with a Reba fork. Either keep it as 2x, or go 1x for the $30-40 raceface NW chainring and the 11-42T sunrace cassette. Sell the 2x chainrings and the cassette.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

tom103 said:


> Maybe but also breaks tires ect on the Mason are better.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think the tires and brakes are probably personal preference. The trail tires are identical to fat b nimble which many people seem to like. The brakes on the mason still aren't brakes I'd choose if building frame up.

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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Arguably it'd be as easy for the trail to have a nicer rockshox
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


The Reba on sale is still around $500 so it's a way better deal to get the regular Mason. It also has better brakes and possibly better rims. The Mason can be easily converted to a 1x10 for ~$150 - 200 and would be a better bike for less money. I'm not crazy about the Trail's brakes but they stop me so I'm not complaining. They are a bit squeaky and I'm hoping a change of pads will address that issue. I like the Fat B Nimble type tires and the stock rims have held up to some fairly large hits without issue. FWIW, I like the color of the Trail better (gray and blue) than the black/seasick green wheels of the regular Mason but it's a moot point because I've already got a couple hundred miles on my Trail and can't return it (and selling it is too big a hassle). Will replace the Raidon with a RS Reba when it dies or when i find one cheap over the winter.

It's a really fun bike and I've got the shifters and shock dialed in perfectly. if funds are tight or you really can't live with those green wheels, the Trail is an amazing bargain. It's a solid platform and the geometry is perfect for the trails I ride and more technical ones I hope to ride soon. Bought the stuff to convert to tubeless but haven't had the time. Maybe tonight after work!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Jackman65 said:


> The Reba on sale is still around $500 so it's a way better deal to get the regular Mason. It also has better brakes and possibly better rims. The Mason can be easily converted to a 1x10 for ~$150 - 200 and would be a better bike for less money. I'm not crazy about the Trail's brakes but they stop me so I'm not complaining. They are a bit squeaky and I'm hoping a change of pads will address that issue. I like the Fat B Nimble type tires and the stock rims have held up to some fairly large hits without issue. FWIW, I like the color of the Trail better (gray and blue) than the black/seasick green wheels of the regular Mason but it's a moot point because I've already got a couple hundred miles on my Trail and can't return it (and selling it is too big a hassle). Will replace the Raidon with a RS Reba when it dies or when i find one cheap over the winter.
> 
> It's a really fun bike and I've got the shifters and shock dialed in perfectly. if funds are tight or you really can't live with those green wheels, the Trail is an amazing bargain. It's a solid platform and the geometry is perfect for the trails I ride and more technical ones I hope to ride soon. Bought the stuff to convert to tubeless but haven't had the time. Maybe tonight after work!


Yeah, but if I'm spending in the 5 to 6 hundred range on a fork I'm going for a yari, which I did. And If it's going to cost around 200 to go 1x10, the difference between the mason and the trail is now nearly the 500 for the fork anyway.

To not have to put up with the monster energy color scheme, that seems worth it to me. Obviously all personal opinion.

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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I've seen a few people mention replacing the stock brake pads for better braking performance. What pads are you replacing them with? I'm a clyde who needs all the help I can get slowing the bike down. Thanks, guys.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Discobrakes.com

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> I've seen a few people mention replacing the stock brake pads for better braking performance. What pads are you replacing them with? I'm a clyde who needs all the help I can get slowing the bike down. Thanks, guys.


I'd suggest going with a Shimano SLX or slightly less powerful Deore m615 front brake. It'll bolt right on without a bleed or hose mod.
Shimano SLX M675 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles $59
Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles $55


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

Awesome, thanks just placed an order. 

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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> Awesome, thanks just placed an order.


Go for the SLX at $5 more.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Yeah, but if I'm spending in the 5 to 6 hundred range on a fork I'm going for a yari, which I did. And If it's going to cost around 200 to go 1x10, the difference between the mason and the trail is now nearly the 500 for the fork anyway.
> 
> To not have to put up with the monster energy color scheme, that seems worth it to me. Obviously all personal opinion.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I feel the same way. Converting down to 1x10 or 1x11 wasn't worth the cost to me. If you enjoy 2x10, then the mason is definitely the way to go. 1x10 was my choice as I figure I'll ride the raidon for a few years, then get something like a manitou or fox on the front at a later date (when boost forks come down in price).


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

eb1888 said:


> I'd suggest going with a Shimano SLX or slightly less powerful Deore m615 front brake. It'll bolt right on without a bleed or hose mod.
> Shimano SLX M675 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles $59
> Shimano Deore M615 Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles $55


Cheers, been wondering which brakes to choose.

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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

Anyone made any modifications to their Mason yet? 

I'm busy with work and will not have a chance to do the tubeless conversion until this weekend. Have some ODI grips on order and thinking strongly about a set of Shimano Zee or XT brakes. The XT's are only a few bucks more than the SLX, but I'm leaning towards the twin piston Zee's (which I believe are Shimano's cost reduced Saint 820's). If the new pads don't improve the performance, the stock brakes are gone (will go on my son's bike which is currently set up with mechanical discs). The Saint shifter also looks pretty cool and is not expensive. The stock shifter works perfectly and I'm too lazy to mess with it. Maybe in the winter!

My biggest problem is finding time to ride. Weather was really bad last weekend, hot (100F) and rainy so the trails were not rideable. I did a 15 mile ride on a limestone trail to get some exercise but nothing fun. 

Cheers,

J


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am planning on getting Lizards skins custom made grips. I am trying to find companies that make 148 boost chain rings and crank that fit the mason trail in blue.

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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

The Mason Trail is down to $700 on Diamondback's website right now.


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## tom103 (Jul 15, 2016)

Anyone going to throw a dropper post on? I've never had one and I'm not sure what size I would need but they seem to be an awesome upgrade 


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

tom103 said:


> Anyone going to throw a dropper post on? I've never had one and I'm not sure what size I would need but they seem to be an awesome upgrade
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I looked in to getting one, but as I'll be doing mostly downhill with this bike, I don't see the benefit vs. extra weight. They look to be extremely useful on XC/park terrain.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

WerewolfJones said:


> The Mason Trail is down to $700 on Diamondback's website right now.


Wonderful... just days after I purchased it... lol.


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## TripleTune (Jan 4, 2011)

$700...those bastards.

Anyone having issues with heel strikes on the boost frame? So far not an issue and still getting used to things, but I am beating the hell out of both heels.


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## mountainfly (Jul 28, 2016)

First time poster. I road bike, recently put some knobby 35 tires on it and played around with a few beginner trails. Liked it. Want to purchase my first mountain bike. Trail or the base Mason? Is paying a 40% premium worth it for the components? Would i even notice? Would I be better off with the Trail anyhow since I never use only but a few of the lower gears on my road bike when I did go out on the trails? Would I be sorry you think a few months down the line and wished I would have paid a few hundred more for a ?noticeably? "better" bike? Money is not the primary concern, value is.

Thanks all


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I would get the Mason trail I have it and love it

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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

I love my trail, but who's to say I wouldn't love the Mason just a little more.. I'm new to MTB and this is my first real bike, so I doubt I'd really notice the difference between the 2 except maybe the brakes. Then again I'm not having brake issues some of the others have had. 


If I had a only a $1000 budget???? And the bike difference was $300 ??? I'd probably go with the trail and use the $300 for upgrades, nothing drastic but I wouldn't mind a new saddle, grips and pedals. 

But if money isn't the issue and value is the priority??? The Mason is probably the better value but personal preference plays in as well... I love the 1x10..

That was probably more rambling than useful information, like I said Im new to this game and just giving my .02


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

mountainfly said:


> First time poster. I road bike, recently put some knobby 35 tires on it and played around with a few beginner trails. Liked it. Want to purchase my first mountain bike. Trail or the base Mason? Is paying a 40% premium worth it for the components? Would i even notice? Would I be better off with the Trail anyhow since I never use only but a few of the lower gears on my road bike when I did go out on the trails? Would I be sorry you think a few months down the line and wished I would have paid a few hundred more for a ?noticeably? "better" bike? Money is not the primary concern, value is.


The Trail is good value with $300 for upgrades that'll be better than the Mason. 
Now if they would list the Comp with the Fox 34 and a dropper for 1150 that would be different.


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## Cheeserockets (Jul 28, 2016)

Anybody built one up with a 140mm fork? I'm thinking about the base model and snagging a 140mm RS revelation or pike (used off pinkbike). I know the pike will fit 2.8 tires not sure about revelation.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Cheeserockets said:


> Anybody built one up with a 140mm fork? I'm thinking about the base model and snagging a 140mm RS revelation or pike (used off pinkbike). I know the pike will fit 2.8 tires not sure about revelation.


The head tube angle would be painfully slack with a 140mm.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

OK guys I have a question/problem... 
I've got a terrible creaking coming from the crank/BB. 
This started during my ride Tuesday night. Last night I pulled the crank put a little grease on the bearing contact points and tightened it back up. My torque wrench didn't go high enough but the creaking was still there. Today I torqued it the middle of the spec and it was still there. I went to the high side of the torque specs and it seems to be worse than before... 
Could the BB be loose? I don't have a BB bracket wrench, but will try to get one tomorrow. 

I'm heading on a mountain bike vacation early Monday morning and want to get it corrected before I do serious damage. 

Any suggestions?? 
Thanks


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

First suggestion would be,yes get a proper bb wrench socket. Tightening the crank itself probably won't fix your problem.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Odogg79 said:


> First suggestion would be get a proper bb wrench socket.


Was about to edit my original post when your reply popped up.

I went through it all again and found nothing out of the ordinary. I had my son and wife both listen as well as a couple of guys I ride with and we all agreed to was coming from the BB/crank area... I would've bet a paycheck on it.

Now for the embarrassing part/solution. Just for giggles I was going to remove the rear wheel check everything there, as soon as I released the lever I heard the creak. Hmm.. I loosened the nut a quarter then and silence... I pulled the axle and put a thin layer of grease and everything seems good to go.. I do a little more test riding tomorrow.

I feel kinda stupid but relieved.. It's weird I haven't touched the rear wheel since I first got the bike but it seems that was the issue


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

UPDATE:

I called Diamondback Corporate HQ (Sales) and mentioned the price drop on the Mason Trail (all I did was leave a voicemail and my Order #), the women in sales called me back to inform me she had credited the $49 price drop back to my card. Worth a shot gents!

Here's the contact # if you would like your $49 (assuming you just recently purchased):

800-222-5527 ext 2395


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Cheeserockets said:


> Anybody built one up with a 140mm fork? I'm thinking about the base model and snagging a 140mm RS revelation or pike (used off pinkbike). I know the pike will fit 2.8 tires not sure about revelation.


Getting a 140mm is my future plan. Going to use and abuse the 120mm Raidon for now, but I like how you think. My upgrades so far were to get WTB Scraper wheels, still using the DB hubs, and WTB Trail Boss 3.0 tires, and of course running a tubeless setup with orange stuff sealant. Changed out the pedals as well (stock DB pedals are pretty damn heavy). Shop is working on the wheelset build and will pick up the bike tomorrow.

In a year or two I have my eye set on this fork:
https://www.manitoumtb.com/products/forks/machete/
Hoping the 140mm pricetag won't be too out of control!

Also, I'd say go ahead and use the stock tires, they appear to be pretty good quality. If i wasn't upgrading the wheelset, I would have stuck with those tires. Cheers!


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Jatrma said:


> Was about to edit my original post when your reply popped up.
> 
> I went through it all again and found nothing out of the ordinary. I had my son and wife both listen as well as a couple of guys I ride with and we all agreed to was coming from the BB/crank area... I would've bet a paycheck on it.
> 
> ...


Lol... That's the way it goes! Thru axle is all new to me. I've always had the best luck tightening my 9mm skewers as much as possible.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Jatrma said:


> Was about to edit my original post when your reply popped up.
> 
> I went through it all again and found nothing out of the ordinary. I had my son and wife both listen as well as a couple of guys I ride with and we all agreed to was coming from the BB/crank area... I would've bet a paycheck on it.
> 
> ...


I dealt with creaking for such a long time on my first road bike. Refaced the bb and chased the threads... All of it.

Then one day I squirted some lube in the clip less pedal... Problem solved.

I never had the heart to tell my buddy who had helped me try to chase it down.


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## acf3passion (Jul 29, 2016)

Is this a good bike for a beginner who's looking to hit casual trails with moderate roots / minor hills + also a fair amount of pavement riding?

I live in Northern NJ on the NJ side of Hudson river. If this is 'strictly' a 'trail' bike and is somehow terribly bad on asphalt riding, please let me know.

*Is is bike truly worth $1200-1500 that's discounted to $700? (In other words, it truly is a good deal vs spending $700 on other bikes?)*


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

acf3passion said:


> Is this a good bike for a beginner who's looking to hit casual trails with moderate roots / minor hills + also a fair amount of pavement riding?
> 
> I live in Northern NJ on the NJ side of Hudson river. If this is 'strictly' a 'trail' bike and is somehow terribly bad on asphalt riding, please let me know.
> 
> *Is is bike truly worth $1200-1500 that's discounted to $700? (In other words, it truly is a good deal vs spending $700 on other bikes?)*


Mountain bikes in general aren't the most efficient pavement pounders. For a bike that you want to enjoy on the trail it's tough to beat this bike for the price. My one friend who purchased rides it alot on the pavement and has no complaints. A 32t front chain ring may help if you do a lot of paved riding.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

A 27.5+ hardtail is more of a fun bike for heavy trail riding, it's totally overgunned for normal gravel paths and will just drag you down on the long run.

If you intend to ride mixed terrain a 29" hardtail or even a fully rigid Gravelbike might be the better option here depending on your preferences


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## acf3passion (Jul 29, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Mountain bikes in general aren't the most efficient pavement pounders. For a bike that you want to enjoy on the trail it's tough to beat this bike for the price. My one friend who purchased rides it alot on the pavement and has no complaints. A 32t front chain ring may help if you do a lot of paved riding.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


1. Does this bike have a quick release so I can throw this in my compact SUV?

2. What do I completely need to assemble this + get started? So far I gathered allen wrenches, shock pump, and air pump.

3. 17" or 19"? My biggest reservation is that it won't fit. I'm 5'11" which is at the cusp of both. Do LBS carry these to try out?

And for accessories, get fitted with a helmet + gloves


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

acf3passion said:


> 1. Does this bike have a quick release so I can throw this in my compact SUV?
> 
> 2. What do I completely need to assemble this + get started? So far I gathered allen wrenches, shock pump, and air pump.
> 
> ...


The bike has through axles but they are both quick release. Either wheel can be removed in a matter of seconds with no tools.

Your basic tool set is all you need, i believe every bolt required for assembly needs only an allen key. Everything is metric. Torque wrench is ideal but not required as long as you're careful.

Make sure your air pump is compatible with presta valves

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

And for size that's going to have to be personal preference a bit. I have 3 friends under 5'8" including the OP riding 17" frames and 1 friend above 5'11" also riding a 17" frame. 

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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

at 5'11" you need a 19" frame


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## acf3passion (Jul 29, 2016)

Thanks for quick responses guys. Ever since I wanted to get into MTB 3 days ago, I got sucked right in for constant reading.

I'm just not 100% sure if this bike is right for me. Based on your info, it's not the best for gravel/walking trail/normal roots.

I'm a boring 34 yo new parent who just wants to get out there on weekends and ride in the woods and not risk injury. That's detrimental to the family with a 1 yo and working wife.

I guess I don't know what I want yet. I'm even reconsidering roadbike- for nice scenic rides up and down Hudson river on NJ side. But what I hate about roadbiking is dealing with traffic and becoming that 'cyclist' drivers find them as a nuisance.

Just venting out loud. I'm ready to go out, but this bike seems too skewed towards technical dirt pounding. (being a 27.5+).

Maybe pick up a hardtail 29er, call it a day and enjoy both asphalt riding & moderate trail? If so, any recommendations for 29er that's tough to beat as this bike in terms of value? (@ $500-700 price point)


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

29er hardtail or Gravelbike depending on the terrain and handlebar preferences. Coming from Mountainbike I bought a Kona Rove ST a few months ago and never thought I could come so far on gravel in just one day.

Take a look at Giant Revolt or Felt V85


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

acf3passion said:


> Thanks for quick responses guys. Ever since I wanted to get into MTB 3 days ago, I got sucked right in for constant reading.
> 
> I'm just not 100% sure if this bike is right for me. Based on your info, it's not the best for gravel/walking trail/normal roots.
> 
> ...


Keep in mind that you can put a 29" wheel set on this bike

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## mountainfly (Jul 28, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Keep in mind that you can put a 29" wheel set on this bike
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


It would piss me off if I used this bike with the gearing offered for pavement riding.


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## mountainfly (Jul 28, 2016)

acf3passion said:


> Thanks for quick responses guys. Ever since I wanted to get into MTB 3 days ago, I got sucked right in for constant reading.
> 
> I'm just not 100% sure if this bike is right for me. Based on your info, it's not the best for gravel/walking trail/normal roots.
> 
> ...


Just get a diamondback overdrive from nashbar. I think it'll suit you needs well.

They have an additional 21%/25% sales every other day bring it down close to 50% off MSRP. Which brings to another point. Diamondback MSRPs are asinine. 30% off MSRP will give you a similar build from a local bike shop. 50% is a good deal if you're willing to buy without trying.

Prices when on sale.

$450
Diamondback Overdrive Sport 29er Mountain Bike - Nashbar Exclusive
$670
Diamondback Overdrive Comp 29er Mountain Bike - Nashbar Exclusive

I just ordered the mason only because I already have a road bike. It's a rigid fork with drop bars that I put knobby tires on, which still is half the width tire as the mason. And I take it on beginner single tracks with no issues, even some intermediate. The overdrive will be more than adequate for the type of dual purpose riding you plan on. And later on if you really get into it, get a dedicated all mountain bike.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

mountainfly said:


> It would piss me off if I used this bike with the gearing offered for pavement riding.


That's personal preference. But I agree that a 30t with 11 in the back is not enough gear for me on the road. Likewise, my 56t with 12 in the back on my road bike would absolutely slay me on the trail. We have no idea what kind of pace he rides when on the road or on the trail.

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## acf3passion (Jul 29, 2016)

I guess I can't even decide what I want to do, let alone zeroing in on a specific bike.

*A proper mountain bike: (be it 27.5 or 29er with front shocks)
*+Get to be out in the woods, a truly new scenery
+A new 'adventure' as I've never done something like this.
-Does not cover much distance vs road-biking (naturally so). I have this assumption that it's not as 'refreshing' if I'm just constantly stuck in rough patches doing 0-5 mph.
-I HAVE to drive out to trails then bike. This may be a considerable nuisance.

*An 'adventure' road bike that can handle gravel / packed dirt*
+NJ/NY is very roadbike friendly. Tons of routes that are amazingly beautiful. Up and down the Hudson river on both sides of NJ/NY.
+Do NOT have to drive. I can just leave out of my garage, ride up to GWB, then go into NYC and comeback for a half to full day.
+The nearby Overpeck park is huge and I can just ride there too.
+I'd assume less dangerous than MTBing. Yes cars are dangerous, but MTB I KNOW I'll hurt myself sooner or later. It's my personality to push myself.
+An 'adventure' bike can handle minor packed dirt/travel trail which will fulfill my needs
-No woods experience


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## hhjj134 (Jul 9, 2014)

acf3passion said:


> I guess I can't even decide what I want to do, let alone zeroing in on a specific bike.
> 
> *A proper mountain bike: (be it 27.5 or 29er with front shocks)
> *+Get to be out in the woods, a truly new scenery
> ...


My riding is kinda similar to you that I do about 60% MTB and 40% road bike with friends. I currently have a 29er hardtail and really considering the Mason.

Here are the reason why i want to switch to Mason which is a more MTB oriented bike. For road biking, all I do is just cruising around and take the time enjoy the ride and scenic with friends, I dont really care about speed. I probably can ride any bike for it.
On the other hand for MTB, you really need to push yourself and improve the time and speed to enjoy the fun of MTB. So you will have a lot more demand from the bike doing MTB.

So at the end of the day, you just need to figure out which discipline you really want to push. If neither, than just get a overdrive 29er or even a hybrid bike which can do both evenly. But the thing is if you found out later, you like to push for one of them, you will be in my situation: spend more to get another bike...


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Something else to keep in mind. this bike with a 29er wheelset and a 32/11 gearing will easily maintain speeds of 18mph. If you spin like crazy, you can get faster. It's not going to be as fast as a road bike, but the gearing on the mason is pretty wide. I've ridden my 1x10 29er on road rides before, and except for the long downhills that I'm just coasting on, I have very few problem keeping up from a gearing standpoint. Keeping up with roadie on a 17 pound roadbike with a mountainbike is a little more difficult.


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## Ohioboy (Jul 6, 2016)

I bought the Mason Trail about 3 weeks ago to ride on singletrack and asphalt paths. I am loving it! This forum encouraged me to buy it. I have plenty of gear for the singletrack but need more for the asphalt to get a good workout. Has anyone tried putting a 32, 34, or 36 tooth chainring on the Mason Trail? I hope to put a 36 tooth on but fear it will rub against the frame. Any thoughts or experiences?


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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

My Mason Trail came yesterday and I've set it up but have not yet had a chance to ride it. The rims say "offpiste" and "double wall" so I'm thinking it may have the same wheelset as the $1k Mason? Can anyone with the more expensive model confirm that it has better than 16-point freehub engagement?


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Ohioboy said:


> Has anyone tried putting a 32, 34, or 36 tooth chainring on the Mason Trail? I hope to put a 36 tooth on but fear it will rub against the frame. Any thoughts or experiences?


thoughts:
you can use a ruler to check the frame clearance

the radius of a 36T chainring is: 36/2/3,1415/2 + 1/8"

I think a 36T is overkill, I ride a 38T on my gravelbike but with 35C tires


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Thought I'd share some pictures. Just got the bike back from the shop after a wheel build. I haven't ridden it yet, but I'll give a report on that come Monday or Tuesday. The shop was really impressed by the bike at $700 (+wheels/tires). OEM DB Hubs were reused for the wheel build (as boost hubs are still ludicrous $$).

Frame: Mason Trail - Large
Wheels: WTB Scraper's 
Hubs: Stock - OEM DB
Tires: WTB Trail Boss 27.5x3.0 (tubeless, using orange sealant)
Pedals: Performance Cycle branded plastic/studs (the work quite good)

Everything else is stock. The shop mentioned that they prefer the raidon fork more than the Reba for durability and being far easier to work on (whether that's true, beats me).

MTBR appears to restrict my direct image links from imgur, so here's the album link:

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

There is no work on the Raidon. It has a sealed damper like a car shock. A reba has an open damper which needs oil changes.
The Raidon can benefit from a swap of the grease in each leg with 15cc of 15w suspension oil. This helps it stay smooth and compliant. There's a thread in Suspension.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

eb1888 said:


> There is no work on the Raidon. It has a sealed damper like a car shock. A reba has an open damper which needs oil changes.
> The Raidon can benefit from a swap of the grease in each leg with 15cc of 15w suspension oil. This helps it stay smooth and compliant. There's a thread in Suspension.


Cheers, thanks for that info!


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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

Here's the Raidon oil bath conversion thread:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/switching-grease-oil-raidon-due-stiction-853706.html


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

deviantek said:


> Thought I'd share some pictures. Just got the bike back from the shop after a wheel build. I haven't ridden it yet, but I'll give a report on that come Monday or Tuesday. The shop was really impressed by the bike at $700 (+wheels/tires). OEM DB Hubs were reused for the wheel build (as boost hubs are still ludicrous $$).
> 
> Frame: Mason Trail - Large
> Wheels: WTB Scraper's
> ...


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Also for anyone wondering I did the shimano brake pad swap and they made a marked difference. The stock Tektro pads seemed to go from open to locked very quickly, with new pads the modulation is much more fluid and I feel as if I have more stopping power, though that could be placebo. Either way, pretty worthwhile upgrade until I feel like getting new brakes. 

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

FourthOf5 said:


> deviantek said:
> 
> 
> > Thought I'd share some pictures. Just got the bike back from the shop after a wheel build. I haven't ridden it yet, but I'll give a report on that come Monday or Tuesday. The shop was really impressed by the bike at $700 (+wheels/tires). OEM DB Hubs were reused for the wheel build (as boost hubs are still ludicrous $$).
> ...


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## DETarch (Feb 26, 2011)

Are these carried in-store anywhere? Hesitant to impulsively purchase online without any seat time at all.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

REI Bloomington has a L Mason Pro on the floor you can take out.


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## oldredbeard63 (Jul 9, 2016)

This totally worked! Took a few days but they called me back.


deviantek said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> I called Diamondback Corporate HQ (Sales) and mentioned the price drop on the Mason Trail (all I did was leave a voicemail and my Order #), the women in sales called me back to inform me she had credited the $49 price drop back to my card. Worth a shot gents!
> 
> ...


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

Did you contact them by phone or email? I just received my Mason which also has the Shimano crank. I emailed DB and they responded by saying that they were all shipping with Shimano now, and that the price had been reflective of the cheaper Shimano crank. . .and that they are in the process of updating their web specs to remove reference to the RF crank.



ButtaYoBreadd said:


> An update on this. Got in contact with Diamondback and they are sending me the correct Race Face Ride crankset. Only thing that sucks is I am out the cost to have my LBS install it :\


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Just a little update on my mason-trail.. 
I'm still loving it. Just got home from a little mtb vacation with my oldest son. 
Tuesday we did the 22 miles south boundary trail from Angel Fire NM down to Taos. Unbelievable ride if ever get the chance, TAKE IT. Wednesday we did the 14 mile Horse thief trail. 

South Boundary has a little of everything, steep climbs to start off, then some really fast flowing single track. The bike seemed to love it as much as I did. There was another fast rooted downhill and the combination of the tires and front shocks soaked but every bump and honestly I was probably going faster then I should have been. 
The last 3 miles is steep, rocky and technical. The Mason handled it with no issues except the brakes started to squeal a bit, but I was on them pretty hard. 


The saddle is brutal on these long rides, but other than that I wouldn't change anything about this bike.


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## JBarnes (Aug 3, 2016)

I have 2 rides on my Mason. Rolls on the flats just about as good as my 29er Overdrive Sport, grabs better traction when climbing, and inspires more confidence on the down hills which allows for a faster decent. I am now a believer in the 27.5+! My bike was also delivered with the Shimano BB and Crank and I was also told that there was a mistake on the DB web site and they are now spec'd with Shimano. I mentioned this web site/thread and explained that I thought I was getting a better Spec'd bike than what was delivered. DB then offered to refund $40 to my card for the mix up. I felt this was fair and accepted and they sent the refund. So far DB Customer Service has been good.


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## JBarnes (Aug 3, 2016)

My only complaint so far is the "too short" seat post. I have to pull the post out of my Overdrive as the Mason post is about 3/4" too short.


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

JBarnes said:


> My only complaint so far is the "too short" seat post. I have to pull the post out of my Overdrive as the Mason post is about 3/4" too short.


I emailed them about my seatpost and they sent me a generic replacement - at least it was long enough!

Been riding it on-and-off with my Spearfish and I'm really enjoying it. The brakes will get swapped soon and I'm really interested to see how it performs with different tires - maybe some Rocket Ron's?

Also, it looks like they are starting to sell out of them - no more Mason Trail in large or XL, and the Mason is almost gone in Small and XL.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

I joined the Mason Trail club as well as the deal was far too good to pass up. The first bike I received had a bent derailleur hanger and the fork was missing the rebound adjust and a bolt to hold the uppers to the lowers which made it unrideable. I gave DB a call and they were fantastic. They fixed the issue immediately and sent me a new bike! I was super stoked on this as they went above and beyond. I knew this was very out of the ordinary to have a bike missing pieces on the fork. I don't blame DB at all for this. I received the replacement bike and went to my local trail to break it in. Its an intermediate rated XC styled trail with a bit of everything so its great for getting a feel for a new bike. I got about 3 miles in and the bearings in the rear hub seized up completely which left me to walk my bike out at least a mile and a half. Has anyone else had these issues with the bearing in the hubs? By looking at the posts in this thread I have just gotten extremely unlucky with my bike. That being said the little bit that I have ridden it, I've loved it, tons of grip, handles super well. The build quality of the frame seems top notch. If you're looking to get one, I'd still recommend it especially at the price it is as currently. I believe I have just had a stroke of bad luck with this purchase. Overall It has been an over all blast to ride, when it works...


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

efinses said:


> I joined the Mason Trail club as well as the deal was far too good to pass up. The first bike I received had a bent derailleur hanger and the fork was missing the rebound adjust and a bolt to hold the uppers to the lowers which made it unrideable. I gave DB a call and they were fantastic. They fixed the issue immediately and sent me a new bike! I was super stoked on this as they went above and beyond. I knew this was very out of the ordinary to have a bike missing pieces on the fork. I don't blame DB at all for this. I received the replacement bike and went to my local trail to break it in. Its an intermediate rated XC styled trail with a bit of everything so its great for getting a feel for a new bike. I got about 3 miles in and the bearings in the rear hub seized up completely which left me to walk my bike out at least a mile and a half. Has anyone else had these issues with the bearing in the hubs? By looking at the posts in this thread I have just gotten extremely unlucky with my bike. That being said the little bit that I have ridden it, I've loved it, tons of grip, handles super well. The build quality of the frame seems top notch. If you're looking to get one, I'd still recommend it especially at the price it is as currently. I believe I have just had a stroke of bad luck with this purchase. Overall It has been an over all blast to ride, when it works...


I think you did get a bit of bad luck, but it's not the first hub failure I've heard of on this bike. I learned about the Mason trail on Facebook, and person who posted about has had two rear hubs fail. I'm enjoying mine but I do worry a bit about the rear wheel.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

kwabbott said:


> I think you did get a bit of bad luck, but it's not the first hub failure I've heard of on this bike. I learned about the Mason trail on Facebook, and person who posted about has had two rear hubs fail. I'm enjoying mine but I do worry a bit about the rear wheel.


 Yup just got an email back from DB. Their manufacturer, Novatec, informed them that they had a bad batch of hubs go out and novatec is dealing with it directly so I will have to ship my wheels back to them and they will respoke a new hub for me. Not ideal but getting the issue resolved. So more than likely if you have quite a few rides on your bike already your hub is fine. Mine was shot almost immediately.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

efinses said:


> Yup just got an email back from DB. Their manufacturer, Novatec, informed them that they had a bad batch of hubs go out and novatec is dealing with it directly so I will have to ship my wheels back to them and they will respoke a new hub for me. Not ideal but getting the issue resolved. So more than likely if you have quite a few rides on your bike already your hub is fine. Mine was shot almost immediately.


Woah boy, I hope this doesn't happen to me! I reused the stock hubs, for my i45 Scraper wheel-set build. That would be a costly rebuild if it goes south!


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## snakedoc74 (Jul 18, 2016)

...


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## snakedoc74 (Jul 18, 2016)

Any idea if we contact them with the serial # if they can tell us if ours are part of that bad batch?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Does anybody know where you can get a Raidon remote cartridge for under 75? Plan on putting a remote lockout on my Mason Trail 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

eb1888 said:


> Just spoke with them. This one works.
> 
> Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason Trail
> 
> ...


Looks like I got here too late. The mason trail is now out of stock and mason is no longer $999. I was considering an Orbea Alma or MX 29 10 or maybe try to find a used Trek Stache 7 29+.

I am completely new to this and want to ride trails in the beautiful Wasatch mountains where I live. I am pretty sure I'd get into some downhill but have a lot of climbing.

Any thoughts?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

my suspicion is that they likely have a good amount of the higher spec comp and pro sitting around and will be looking to thin that inventory. Keep checking back as if either of those end up w similar reductions you could get a truly no upgrade spec for not much more... if by chance they hit close to that 50% range - i will be seriously thinking about one - heck - even if to get the spec kit and move to another frame...


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

They have no XLs in Comp or Pro.
If you want one in another size call and ask for a corporate discount code.

The Trail is available in S and M. The Mason in S, M and L.
Their site goes down for a time periodically. It'll come up again. If not call them.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

well - maybe being height challenged could one day pay off for me if they drop em and have medium available


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

*where*



eb1888 said:


> They have no XLs in Comp or Pro.
> If you want one in another size call and ask for a corporate discount code.
> 
> The Trail is available in S and M. The Mason in S, M and L.
> Their site goes down for a time periodically. It'll come up again. If not call them.


Where are you seeing it available?


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

modturnip75 said:


> Where are you seeing it available?


This has happened before. 
Go to their site and click SHOP at top right. Hit the Featured Bikes on the drop down. You'll see the bikes but the individual page shows Error. That Error message happens now and then. It goes away. Or call on Monday.
Looks like they are out of stock. Call. They'll work with you.


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## genecapps (Aug 8, 2016)

deviantek said:


> FourthOf5 said:
> 
> 
> > They're the i45 model (i believe the inner diameter is obviously smaller then the "45". But it is a noticeable size difference from that of the blue rims.
> ...


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Had two Mason Trails at Kingdom this weekend, the OP and my better half. Nothing but smiles. We had 3 total plus bikes in our group of 6 including my Fuse.


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

genecapps said:


> I'm riding on the BLUE rims tubeless. I can get the rear tire down to about 15 psi and front to 13 psi. Any lower and the tires squirm if I ride hard into the corners. I'd like drop the pressure a smidge more for comfort but can't with the BLUE rims. Is there an improvement in regards to cornering hard with the scraper i45 rims? Or do you think a better tire might reduce squirm?


I honestly couldn't tell you. I never even rode the bike with the stock wheel set. The stock tires though do look plenty beefy to be mounted on wider rims... pretty good looking tread for a no-name brand! I think the squirm is mostly due to the size of the stock blue wheels.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

deviantek said:


> I honestly couldn't tell you. I never even rode the bike with the stock wheel set. The stock tires though do look plenty beefy to be mounted on wider rims... pretty good looking tread for a no-name brand! I think the squirm is mostly due to the size of the stock blue wheels.


Fyi, if you're talking about the Chao yang (same thing as a fat b nimble), then light weight is one of the only good things about it. Unfortunately they haven't proven durable, and have a ton of rolling resistance as compared to the traction they give.

I think they're an okay dry conditions tire, but when they need to be replaced, it would likely be good to look for something different.


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## genecapps (Aug 8, 2016)

deviantek said:


> I honestly couldn't tell you. I never even rode the bike with the stock wheel set. The stock tires though do look plenty beefy to be mounted on wider rims... pretty good looking tread for a no-name brand! I think the squirm is mostly due to the size of the stock blue wheels.


I think you're probably correct... The narrow blue rims are probably the squirm culprit. The stock tire and stock rim combo = a light bulb shape, and when running at low pressure and thrown into a hard corner, the tire deflects or squirms.

Sorry for all the questions but what pressures are you running in your wheelset and are you gettingthe squirm effort in the corner? I'm considering the upgrade to the Scraper i45 rims but hesitant to drop the coin.


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## MiWolverine (Jun 15, 2009)

Mason Pro is $1624.


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

*Deal?*



MiWolverine said:


> Mason Pro is $1624.


Is this a good deal or for these $$$ would I be better off considering a full suspension?

What about a mason comp for $1380? Is that a better deal?


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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> Is this a good deal or for these $$$ would I be better off considering a full suspension?
> 
> What about a mason comp for $1380? Is that a better deal?


I think it's a great deal. Put it this way, if I didn't already have my Mason Trail, I'd jump at this one. Overall better bike. The shock, brakes and drivetrain are better and I believe the wheels/tires are better. Stock tires on the Trail are okay but as previous people have stated they lack traction and durability. Mine are starting to wear and lose traction. Wet traction was never great to begin with.

Please note, the higher the price, the more the alternatives, but I'd take the Comp for under $1400 in a minute. The components are several levels up from the Trail and it has a dropper post. Getting the Trail or regular Mason to that level would cost you much more. If it goes down any more, I may be forced to get one and sell my Medium Trial.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Has anyone figured out if these bikes can run an internally routed dropper?

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

FourthOf5 said:


> Has anyone figured out if these bikes can run an internally routed dropper?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


 Yup all of them have internal routing. Unfortunately its not all the way through the frame. There is a port by the BB to route one.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

efinses said:


> Yup all of them have internal routing. Unfortunately its not all the way through the frame. There is a port by the BB to route one.


Good enough for me.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Question:

I have a neighbor who was about to purchase a mason trail, but they went out of stock, and now he's kicking himself. Now that the Mason Pro is on sale, would it be worth buying the bike, and doing a frame swap (i.e. paying $900 extra for the components that are on the Pro - upgrading from trail components)? I know the fox 34 is a nice fork, and the dropper post is nice. All told I'd be looking at $1000 with a shop 'frame swap' build. Thoughts?


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## mountainfly (Jul 28, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> Is this a good deal or for these $$$ would I be better off considering a full suspension?
> 
> What about a mason comp for $1380? Is that a better deal?


Disclaimer: new to this

If you have to ask, you're probably new to mountain biking as well. I ended up getting the Mason trail, $700, I realize it's no longer available. The pro is is $1000 more, comp is double that $700. While the components by itself are probably well worth that amount in monetary difference between the different models (is it? I don't know), I'm not sure it's actually worth it personally for a novice like me. The Trail is more capable on the single tracks that I currently ride then I'm capable and have the balls for. I'll ride it for a year or so to figure out what I really want/need. $1700 seems like awfully a lot of money to test it out to see if it's what you're looking for.

I kind of already want a full suspension. My garage already have my road bike, wife's road bike, kids bike trailer, jogging stroller, regular stroller, 2 wagons, and a bunch of other crap. I will have to get rid of the mason trail if I ever get a full suspension, I'm glad I bought the cheaper model. I Though I actually like not having a front derailleur in the cheapest model.

If money is not a concern, but the one that looks better to you. I'm sure they're both great deals.


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## phuchmileif (Aug 10, 2016)

So I ordered the Mason [vanilla] last week and have been waiting on it to ship. Gave them a call today to find out what's up and thought the info was worth sharing, in case anyone else is in the same position-

They're not shipping any more Masons right now, to include to the Trail and maybe the Comp model...that's why they're off the site. So, the good news to anyone who feels like they missed out: you may still have a chance to get one.

But, the bad news to anyone who placed an order last week, and is seeing it still stuck in 'processing'...your bike probably won't ship this month. I was told on the phone that it would probably be next month before they had a new batch of rear wheels to swap onto their current inventory.

They said the Mason Pro definitely has a different wheel/hub and is not affected. Sounded like the Comps still had the bad hubs, but I'm not 100% on that.

I can't be all that upset. The company seems really good to deal with, and they were honest and apologetic. And they haven't charged me for the bike- so basically I'm just sitting on a pre-order right now. They said it shouldn't be a problem to cancel if I end up buying something else.


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

*yup*



mountainfly said:


> Disclaimer: new to this
> 
> If you have to ask, you're probably new to mountain biking as well. I ended up getting the Mason trail, $700, I realize it's no longer available. The pro is is $1000 more, comp is double that $700. While the components by itself are probably well worth that amount in monetary difference between the different models (is it? I don't know), I'm not sure it's actually worth it personally for a novice like me. The Trail is more capable on the single tracks that I currently ride then I'm capable and have the balls for. I'll ride it for a year or so to figure out what I really want/need. $1700 seems like awfully a lot of money to test it out to see if it's what you're looking for.


Yea it's my first real mountain bike in 20 years. That is why I wanted the trail, it's perfect price point to try out mtb again. 1399 or 1623 isn't horrible either, I just am kicking myself I didn't get the trail. I could wait until september and we will probably see it pop back up but who knows if it'll be 700 clams ever again.


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## mountainfly (Jul 28, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> Yea it's my first real mountain bike in 20 years. That is why I wanted the trail, it's perfect price point to try out mtb again. 1399 or 1623 isn't horrible either, I just am kicking myself I didn't get the trail. I could wait until september and we will probably see it pop back up but who knows if it'll be 700 clams ever again.


Get the cheaper one. $50 for helmet, $50 knee pads, $50 elbow pads, $50 comfort/protective shorts, $50 multitool/spare tube/ mini pump/lube/tire lever, $50-200 bike carrier/hitch/tail gate pad, $150 misc other crap. It adds up.

I say elbow and knee pads because I took a decent hit today, realized I probably should of had it. Messed up my hip too.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

A ways back, I saw someone ask about if anyone else is ruining a dropper on their bike. I am running the DNM dropper from Amazon. It's awesome, $140 to your door. I'm completely hooked on it. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Duzer (Jul 27, 2016)

Jatrma said:


> This... I just rerouted my shifter cable this weekend after noticing it rubbing some of the paint off the fork.


How did you reroute the shifter cable? I want to route mine to the left side of the head tube. Do I disconnect it at the derailleur or at the shifter?


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Pull the grip, brake lever then the shifter off and pass it through the frame.


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## Duzer (Jul 27, 2016)

Odogg79 said:


> Pull the grip, brake lever then the shifter off and pass it through the frame.


Thanks, that's exactly what I did when I couldn't figure out another way.


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## CuzinMike (Jul 6, 2010)

I’ve decided to sell my Mason Trail after half a dozen rides due to no fault of the bike…it just doesn’t fit me. I’m 6’4”, 37” inseam and am always on XL/21” frames with no issue. With the Mason I couldn’t get enough leg extension without pulling the stock post past its minimum insertion line. A 400mm post solved that problem, but now I find the bars are too low. Since I can’t add more spacers I was getting ready to pull the trigger on a riser stem and riser bars, but then I swung by my LBS and saw they had an XL Cannondale Beast of the East 2 with a paint ding on the top tube on closeout and it fit me like a glove, so it ended up being new bike day all over again. 

I’m hoping to sell the Mason locally this Friday, but if that falls through I’ll post up to the classifieds here so someone can get a chance at an XL Trail for less than what I paid for it.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Unit91MS said:


> Had two Mason Trails at Kingdom this weekend, the OP and my better half. Nothing but smiles. We had 3 total plus bikes in our group of 6 including my Fuse.


Checking in: I probably have 100+ miles on my Mason Trail. I'm running F13/R14 psi in the blue rims/original tires no problem. Discobrake pads are working great, still a little noisy but lots of modulation and stopping power.

The only bad news is that the crappy Yakima bike rack I am using rubbed a hole in the pain on my top tube   
I'm planning on selling a bunch of stuff so I can buy a 1upUSA rack and never worry about it again.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> Checking in: I probably have 100+ miles on my Mason Trail. I'm running F13/R14 psi in the blue rims/original tires no problem. Discobrake pads are working great, still a little noisy but lots of modulation and stopping power.
> 
> The only bad news is that the crappy Yakima bike rack I am using rubbed a hole in the pain on my top tube
> I'm planning on selling a bunch of stuff so I can buy a 1upUSA rack and never worry about it again.


The rt76 rotors went on, I'll let you know if it helps the noise.


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## codycups13 (Aug 19, 2016)

this is an all around great trail bike. stock from the factory it can handle alot of abuse. i found that the tires wear out after a few months of riding i had replace the front tire with a wtb bridger 3.0 and it impoved the overall handling and made a huge difference in traction now the front end never slips or squrms when corning hard. the suntour radion lockout works great but the rebound control seems to be worthless as there is little difference in fork performance when adjusted fully both ways. i replaced the fork with a 140mm rockshox yari. and the handle bars with nukproof warhead 20mm rise ...such a dramitic performance increase .... check out these videos of me riding the mason trail ... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCynGqevsZSGnmyw1LOMJffg


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Some goods for my bike

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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Some goods for my bike
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


What's that on the derailleur mount?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

What in gods name is that on the handlebars. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

It a boombotix speaker that you can mount to your bike. Please don't enlighten me on how I am the devil and yes it is loud enough for me. Sorry I ask a questions about speakers and a I got six pages of how horrible and it will never be loud enough for you


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Odogg79 said:


> What's that on the derailleur mount?


That is a Wolf tooth components front derailleur cover.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/accessories/products/front-derailleur-mount-cover

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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> It a boombotix speaker that you can mount to your bike. Please don't enlighten me on how I am the devil and yes it is loud enough for me. Sorry I ask a questions about speakers and a I got six pages of how horrible and it will never be loud enough for you
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I don't find them horrible because they're not loud enough, I find them horrible because they destroy any chance at peace and tranquility for anyone else on the trail. My trails my be more populated than yours though.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

scrapmetal57 said:


> Checking in: I probably have 100+ miles on my Mason Trail. I'm running F13/R14 psi in the blue rims/original tires no problem. Discobrake pads are working great, still a little noisy but lots of modulation and stopping power.
> 
> The only bad news is that the crappy Yakima bike rack I am using rubbed a hole in the pain on my top tube
> I'm planning on selling a bunch of stuff so I can buy a 1upUSA rack and never worry about it again.


sintered pads? might do the same.


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

Having trouble with my mason. Seems to be the crank/chain or possibly the hub. I started this thread about it if anyone could offer some guideance:

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...k-chain-noise-video-1020984.html#post12795658


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> It a boombotix speaker that you can mount to your bike. Please don't enlighten me on how I am the devil and yes it is loud enough for me. Sorry I ask a questions about speakers and a I got six pages of how horrible and it will never be loud enough for you
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


No enlightenment. I just find it a bit humorous that you've thought you needed different tires and drivetrain before putting much time on the bike and then end up with that.

Personally, the speaker probably isn't a great way to get any good karma on the trail. Disrupting other people's ride with your music, adding danger not being able to hear people coming behind you or around the corner. Ear buds are the furthest I'd take music on the trail. Personally I prefer to leave everything behind and enjoy the trail without distraction.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> No enlightenment. I just find it a bit humorous that you've thought you needed different tires and drivetrain before putting much time on the bike and then end up with that.
> 
> Personally, the speaker probably isn't a great way to get any good karma on the trail. Disrupting other people's ride with your music, adding danger not being able to hear people coming behind you or around the corner. Ear buds are the furthest I'd take music on the trail. Personally I prefer to leave everything behind and enjoy the trail without distraction.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I was just wondering about stuff, not plan on changing things until something wears out. So when I do decide to make that change I can just go and do it. Planning ahead. But I think I mention before that I don't see anybody where I go, so I am not bothering anybody.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Plus once again it is not that loud that I can't hear anybody, so if I do see somebody I can hear them. I still here all the birds and cars that drive by.

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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

As long as you enjoy it and it makes your ride more pleasant, that's ultimately the most important thing. 

What do you think of the bike now that you have some more miles on it? 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> As long as you enjoy it and it makes your ride more pleasant, that's ultimately the most important thing.
> 
> What do you think of the bike now that you have some more miles on it?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


I love it, It kind of give you a false sense of "I can go anywhere" because of the tires. Which may get me in trouble someday. But I am learning how adjust the derailleur on my own and the ins and outs of my bike. I am tempted to take it apart just to see how to put it back together. But ya I love it

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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

my first post, just to report that my mason trail's rear hub crapped out on me on my 5th ride. 

here's the noise the hub is making:






for those who had the same issue, how did u remedy it? I contacted Novatec (hub manufacturer) and they sent me an email with address to send the item. Do I send just the hub? or the entire rear wheel? Would they reimburse me for the shipping? Pretty bummed.


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## GuitsBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

I would contact diamondback first and see if theyll send out a replacement part. Is it just the freehub? If so, see if novatec will sell you one outright, that way youre not down for months while the warranty exchange is in transit. And when it finally arrives, youll have a backup part.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

bd772 said:


> here's the noise the hub is making:


Something to check is removing the plastic disc. I've had those plastic discs come off the spokes and make an annoying rubbing sound like that. Not quite as loud, but definitely a plastic/rubber/metal grinding sound. If left alone, the disc can brake off the spokes and get caught up with the cassette. When that happens, the disc starts turning with the cassette and destroys the spokes. It sounds like the metal pawls and ratchet mechanism are engaging properly, so I can't help but thing it's the plastic disc or something else stuck between the cassette and the freehub.


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## ButtaYoBreadd (Jul 15, 2016)

bd772 said:


> my first post, just to report that my mason trail's rear hub crapped out on me on my 5th ride.
> 
> here's the noise the hub is making:
> 
> ...


I would call novatec back and ask them those questions.

I would also contact diamondback and see what they can do for you. A failure after 5 rides is not acceptable.


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## Muirenn (Jun 17, 2013)

Daholla77 said:


> Plus once again it is not that loud that I can't hear anybody, so if I do see somebody I can hear them. I still here all the birds and cars that drive by.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


But they can hear you. Ugh. That would be aggravating to ride the same trail.


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

To add to the hub failures. Put me in the not so lucky camp. Although my problem isn't like the one in the video posted above. My cassette spins freely and appears normal. My rear wheel stiffens up completely when the quick-release is tightened normally. This all happened riding the bike. It just gave out and stiffened up like crazy. I tried taking the brakes off too, so it's not them. The wheel does spin freely off the bike and when the QR is opened. It's only when I tighten the QR up. Also, just to say, its not that I have it too tight. Even if I turn it a tiny bit to tighten it, the wheel starts to stiffen hard.

Is this hub/bearing failure?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

JK85 said:


> Is this hub/bearing failure?


Sounds like the hub axle/nut/bearing assembly wasn't done properly at the factory. Cartridge bearings, so it could be something as simple as a blob of paint or the axle spacer's aren't right. It could also be a case of over tightening the thru-axle, but I doubt it. I don't think they need tightened down as much as QR, but shouldn't be that far off.
SOLVED: Rear axle over-tighten? - Pinkbike Forum


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

Okay, I may have dun goofed here. I didn't realize I was missing a spacer. I took it off again and I definitely don't have one. And mind you, I rode the bike for around 100 miles no issues before this. Is there suppose be a spacer/washer?


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

JK85 said:


> Okay, I may have dun goofed here. I didn't realize I was missing a spacer. I took it off again and I definitely don't have one. And mind you, I rode the bike for around 100 miles no issues before this. Is there suppose be a spacer/washer?


There are no spacers if you're simply just removing the wheel. Unless something broke and fell out somewhere.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Somewhere in this thread (should be the last couple of pages) someone had a hub failure and contacted diamondback and they confirmed a bad batch of hubs from their supplier. I've heard numerous people rave about DB customer service. My first call would be to them. I'm sure they'll get you fixed up.


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

Jatrma said:


> Somewhere in this thread (should be the last couple of pages) someone had a hub failure and contacted diamondback and they confirmed a bad batch of hubs from their supplier. I've heard numerous people rave about DB customer service. My first call would be to them. I'm sure they'll get you fixed up.


I can confirm that 1) DB Customer service is great, and 2) there was a bad batch of Novatech rear hubs on the Mason and Mason Trail. My Mason hub just seized after about 20 miles of riding.

Diamondback is referring to Novatech to replace the hub. They'll ask you to send your wheel in, and they should replace the hub and send it back.
I have not called them yet, but their CS number is: 951-225-4514


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

Okay, great, thanks guys. I put in a RMA request and now have to ship it in. Can't wait to get back on it.


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

ButtaYoBreadd said:


> I would call novatec back and ask them those questions.
> 
> I would also contact diamondback and see what they can do for you. A failure after 5 rides is not acceptable.


I agree with you. I had contacted DB. All they did was give me Novatec's number. Novatec says to send the wheel in. Now I have to pack it up and get it shipped and wait. I don't know how good DB's customer service is... but they haven't done much about this issue other than to point the finger to Novatec. Very disappointing since I can't ride for a while.


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

JK85 said:


> To add to the hub failures. Put me in the not so lucky camp. Although my problem isn't like the one in the video posted above. My cassette spins freely and appears normal. My rear wheel stiffens up completely when the quick-release is tightened normally. This all happened riding the bike. It just gave out and stiffened up like crazy. I tried taking the brakes off too, so it's not them. The wheel does spin freely off the bike and when the QR is opened. It's only when I tighten the QR up. Also, just to say, its not that I have it too tight. Even if I turn it a tiny bit to tighten it, the wheel starts to stiffen hard.
> 
> Is this hub/bearing failure?


I had the same issue when my hub failed. I can't tighten it without seizing the wheel from turning at all. if left loose so the wheels don't tighten, then the axle isn't secured. I'm thinking its related to the faulty hub. If the hub is not seized, when the axle is tightened the wheels should turn freely. Since it's seized fully or partially, when I tighten the axle as I would normally, it completely stiffens the wheel. What you see on my youtube is that when turning the cassette backwards, there's grinding. Which tells me the hub is shot... try taking your rear wheel off and turning the cassette backwards.

DB should do a voluntary safety recall on these... they know the issue, and it can be dangerous, yet they just wait for each consumer to fail during mid-ride to get them fixed. Unbelievable.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

bd772 said:


> I had the same issue when my hub failed. I can't tighten it without seizing the wheel from turning at all. if left loose so the wheels don't tighten, then the axle isn't secured. I'm thinking its related to the faulty hub. If the hub is not seized, when the axle is tightened the wheels should turn freely. Since it's seized fully or partially, when I tighten the axle as I would normally, it completely stiffens the wheel. What you see on my youtube is that when turning the cassette backwards, there's grinding. Which tells me the hub is shot... try taking your rear wheel off and turning the cassette backwards.
> 
> DB should do a voluntary safety recall on these... they know the issue, and it can be dangerous, yet they just wait for each consumer to fail during mid-ride to get them fixed. Unbelievable.


It seems like a failure, but not really dangerous.

Maybe their customer service could be better, but a recall is not something to be taken likely- which is why it's only done for things that fail catastrophically and cause potential death.


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## justin70 (Sep 17, 2007)

When will these be back in stock!!!


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## genecapps (Aug 8, 2016)

I think my Mason Trail hubs are going out too. There's about 10 rides on it and the hubs are pretty noisy. I sent Diamond a request to swop out the M. Trail wheels for the M. Pro wheels and I would be willing to pay for the upgrade. I'll let you know if they bite at the request.

Lastly, I swopped out the rear stock tire for a WTB Trail Boss 3.0. I thought it was a reasonable $65 upgrade for improved traction, less squirm in the corners, and was able to drop the tire pressure from 14 to 13 psi.


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

genecapps said:


> I think my Mason Trail hubs are going out too. There's about 10 rides on it and the hubs are pretty noisy. I sent Diamond a request to swop out the M. Trail wheels for the M. Pro wheels and I would be willing to pay for the upgrade. I'll let you know if they bite at the request.
> 
> Lastly, I swopped out the rear stock tire for a WTB Trail Boss 3.0. I thought it was a reasonable $65 upgrade for improved traction, less squirm in the corners, and was able to drop the tire pressure from 14 to 13 psi.


Thats a good idea. Im still unhappy that I have to pack up the wheel and ship it. Dont u get a kick out of how close thr bike tire price is to a car tire? Lol


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## genecapps (Aug 8, 2016)

tfinator said:


> It seems like a failure, but not really dangerous.
> 
> Maybe their customer service could be better, but a recall is not something to be taken likely- which is why it's only done for things that fail catastrophically and cause potential death.





bd772 said:


> Thats a good idea. Im still unhappy that I have to pack up the wheel and ship it. Dont u get a kick out of how close thr bike tire price is to a car tire? Lol


I agree... Mtb tires are way expensive for what they are. Diamondback never responded to my email request so i just called. Customer Service stated a bike shop needs to determine the hubs are bad and they would only deal with the issue through the bike shop. They also stated if the part is bad, they would not do an upgrade, even if I paid for the upgrade. To me this business approach transpires... Diamondback can inconvenience you by selling you a bike with bad hubs and you have to wait on Diamondback to fix the problem the cheapest way possible. Not impressed with how the issue is being handled!


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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

genecapps said:


> I agree... Mtb tires are way expensive for what they are. Diamondback never responded to my email request so i just called. Customer Service stated a bike shop needs to determine the hubs are bad and they would only deal with the issue through the bike shop. They also stated if the part is bad, they would not do an upgrade, even if I paid for the upgrade. To me this business approach transpires... Diamondback can inconvenience you by selling you a bike with bad hubs and you have to wait on Diamondback to fix the problem the cheapest way possible. Not impressed with how the issue is being handled!


I chalk this up to the downside of buying a $700 bike on-line. Pay more and buy from a real bike shop and you will get better service. I hope my hub holds up...

It's not surprising they won't let you upgrade. If they did, it would be unmanageable I'd upgrade my wheels and shocks. When these wheels go, I'm going to get a set of customs on wider rims.


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## Jackman65 (Jul 13, 2016)

genecapps said:


> I agree... Mtb tires are way expensive for what they are. Diamondback never responded to my email request so i just called. Customer Service stated a bike shop needs to determine the hubs are bad and they would only deal with the issue through the bike shop. They also stated if the part is bad, they would not do an upgrade, even if I paid for the upgrade. To me this business approach transpires... Diamondback can inconvenience you by selling you a bike with bad hubs and you have to wait on Diamondback to fix the problem the cheapest way possible. Not impressed with how the issue is being handled!


I just posted and got an error message. Hopefully this isn't a double post.

This is the downside of buying a $700 bike online versus going to a real bikeshop. It's great until something breaks or needs warrantee service. Not surprised they will not allow you to purchase upgrades. Doing so would be unmanageable. DB is selling these bikes at a drastically reduced price. No free lunches, unfortunately.


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

Question for other Mason Trail owners. The bottom bracket on my non drive side is not sitting flush with the frame. There is a small gap between it and the BB shell. Tring to post a pic but can't figure it out. Is this normal?


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

*Is this space between the shell and BB normal on all Mason Trails?*


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

ElGreco said:


> Question for other Mason Trail owners. The bottom bracket on my non drive side is not sitting flush with the frame. There is a small gap between it and the BB shell. Tring to post a pic but can't figure it out. Is this normal?


Pic posted. I don't think that's normal, you should be able to screw it in tighter with the correct bb tool.

I would not ride like that.


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

ElGreco said:


> Question for other Mason Trail owners. The bottom bracket on my non drive side is not sitting flush with the frame. There is a small gap between it and the BB shell. Tring to post a pic but can't figure it out. Is this normal?


 Mine isn't flush either. No expert, but probably normal. In regards to the hub failures, I shipped my rim/hub back as I did not have the tools to take it apart. It cost me $61 to Fedex ground this from MA to CA. I've emailed DB to hopefully cover this.


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

Thanks JK85! I actually got a tool on there and tried to tighten it and that's as far as it goes. Big relief knowing that they didn't screw my BB in wrong and wreck the frame!


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

Jackman65 said:


> I chalk this up to the downside of buying a $700 bike on-line. Pay more and buy from a real bike shop and you will get better service. I hope my hub holds up...
> 
> It's not surprising they won't let you upgrade. If they did, it would be unmanageable I'd upgrade my wheels and shocks. When these wheels go, I'm going to get a set of customs on wider rims.


Agreed.

While it certainly is a more varied experience and often more of a hassle, this is part of the trade-off of getting a bike at roughly half the competitors cost.
Between their online store clearance, discount web retailers (they're often 50% off on the Clyme and such places) and other steeply discounted sales outlets, Diamondback sells a package that very few other manufactures offer.

There is a reason Diamondback can sell these bikes for as cheap as they do. They are not hand-built and tuned by a shop mechanic before coming to you, and it seems like there is not the consistency between builds that more expensive bikes exhibit.

It can be frustrating if you're not anticipating the potential hassle, so compare the cost to your other options and see if it is really worth it to you to just get the cheapest bike you can find online.

I got the Mason trail a couple of months ago and have been very happy with it for the price, but it has not been without headache. It came with the Shimano crank (annoying, but fine), the rear hub failed (working with Novatec on that one), and also arrived with a defective fork (not DBs fault). Diamondback stepped up and sent me a replacement fork and stood behind their product.

If you're not interested in turning a wrench on your bike, then a Diamondback probably isn't the best option. But, if you enjoy working on your ride, and want some more money left over to customize and upgrade parts down the road. . .then I think Diamondback is a great brand for the money, and makes some really fun and capable bikes.

My first real mountain bike was a Diamondback a few years ago. It got me in the door at a low price, and was a great opportunity for me to learn how to maintain and upgrade a bike to really create something unique and enjoyable.


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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Bummer you guys are having rear hub issues. I've got a couple more rides on mine and the only issue I've had is hitting my handlebars on tight trees.

If my hub ever does go, it will be replaced with a set of chinese carbon fiber wheels of 40-50mm width.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

scrapmetal57 said:


> Bummer you guys are having rear hub issues. I've got a couple more rides on mine and the only issue I've had is hitting my handlebars on tight trees.
> 
> If my hub ever does go, it will be replaced with a set of chinese carbon fiber wheels of 40-50mm width.


Just a heads up as the frame is set up for boost spacing. Not sure if the chinese carbon wheelset will be boost spacing


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

efinses said:


> Just a heads up as the frame is set up for boost spacing. Not sure if the chinese carbon wheelset will be boost spacing


Nearly all the Chinese options in 40 to 50mm width offer boost spacing.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

Unit91MS said:


> Nearly all the Chinese options in 40 to 50mm width offer boost spacing.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


Well damn, I might have to look into a set of those


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Unit91MS said:


> Nearly all the Chinese options in 40 to 50mm width offer boost spacing.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


What's is the websites?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Ican, Deng fu, workswell, light bicycle, there's a ton. Ebay and amazon even have them I believe. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

*2017*

2017 bikes are available to peek at on diamondback go to the "compare" tool and you can see new 2017 masons.

They are moving to 1x11 on the mason,comp,pro. Pics show red paint jobs on the comp+pro.








COMP







MASON







PRO

So what is the benefit of the 1x11? Are front derailleurs a thing of the past and I should not bother with the old models? Do you find that 2x allow you to do more climbing or is it just as good on the 1x11?


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## justin70 (Sep 17, 2007)

1x11 will limit your high end gearing. You can get a small chain ring to allow you to climb the steeps, but then you might be spinning out on the flats. If you're heavy, like me at 270, a 2x chain set is a must to have the necessary range, IMO. The only 1x option I'd consider right now is SRAM eagle which is a 1x12 with a 50 tooth rear cog... but it's expensive $$$.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

justin70 said:


> 1x11 will limit your high end gearing. You can get a small chain ring to allow you to climb the steeps, but then you might be spinning out on the flats. If you're heavy, like me at 270, a 2x chain set is a must to have the necessary range, IMO. The only 1x option I'd consider right now is SRAM eagle which is a 1x12 with a 50 tooth rear cog... but it's expensive $$$.


I'm ~255 and disagree. I find that the 30t with 11-40 is actually too many gears. I'm actually considering going to a 32t in the front. I find the gearing to be plenty sufficient for any north east riding I've done so far. It is possible to spin out on flats or downhills, but I've only ever noticed that being a problem on a paved surface, never a trail.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## justin70 (Sep 17, 2007)

Unit91MS said:


> I'm ~255 and disagree. I find that the 30t with 11-40 is actually too many gears. I'm actually considering going to a 32t in the front. I find the gearing to be plenty sufficient for any north east riding I've done so far. It is possible to spin out on flats or downhills, but I've only ever noticed that being a problem on a paved surface, never a trail.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


 ultimately I think it depends on how big your mountains are, and whether you're a muscle bound Clydesdale or more on the flabby side.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

modturnip75 said:


> Are front derailleurs a thing of the past?


yes.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

justin70 said:


> ultimately I think it depends on how big your mountains are, and whether you're a muscle bound Clydesdale or more on the flabby side.


Typical rides are in the 750 to 1700 ft of elevation gain range. Local stuff isn't as big as some of the trails we ride when we take trips. Leg muscles make more of a difference than gearing for me at least.

Most gym memberships are cheaper for the year than an all new drivetrain 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

New bling glad I didn't listen to the guy at diamondback he said the spacers were 30mm but it was actually 15mm. Bought a caliper and measure it my self.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

what is that and what does it do?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

modturnip75 said:


> what is that and what does it do?


It is a wolfs tooth components spacer

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

For those with hub issues, Diamondback and Novatec have done a great job handling this. Novatec sent a new, upgraded hub to my local shop that I have used for wheel builds and paid him to re-lace my wheel. I was back in business in about two weeks.

Diamondback sent me a new rear mech hanger becasue the old one had gotten chewed up when the hub locked and the end caps were spinning in the frame, they also tossed me a longer seat post for my trouble, which is exactly what my size medium bike needed.

All in all, they handled this great and I'm happy with how things turned out. Gives you confidence in the brand.


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

ElGreco said:


> For those with hub issues, Diamondback and Novatec have done a great job handling this. Novatec sent a new, upgraded hub to my local shop that I have used for wheel builds and paid him to re-lace my wheel. I was back in business in about two weeks.
> 
> Diamondback sent me a new rear mech hanger becasue the old one had gotten chewed up when the hub locked and the end caps were spinning in the frame, they also tossed me a longer seat post for my trouble, which is exactly what my size medium bike needed.
> 
> All in all, they handled this great and I'm happy with how things turned out. Gives you confidence in the brand.


This is good to hear.

My experience with Diamondback and Novatec have both been positive as well. Novatec at first was going to pay to have a local shop re-lace the wheel with a new hub, but decided that they wanted to inspect my hub themselves. They paid to have the whole wheel shipped to them, and will be replacing the hub and sending the wheel back shortly.

Diamondback was great when I dealt with them in getting a replacement fork when my Reba was faulty. They stood behind their product and promptly sent a new fork.

Overall I have been impressed with their service even when the product issues are generally outside their control.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Signed up to share my experience w/ the rear hub as well.

Bought the Mason Trail in June, have probably put about 100 miles on it as well. Ran flawlessly until I got a pinch flat on the original rear tube. Decided to take it as a sign to go tubeless after seeing how easy @scrapmetal57 said his conversion was. I will say it was the easiest 20 min I could imagine, the bead is REALLY tight though.










When I removed the rear wheel I first noticed what is labeled here as the "non drive side spacer" was loose to the slightest touch. I thought this was odd but just snugged it up lightly and figured it was a through axle thing (first rear thru-axle I've had)










I found that by doing so, once the axle had been clamped down, there was a noticeable resistance being exerted (like a few have noted before) and I backed the "spacer" back out a touch to balance the pressure once the axle was on. it was okayish but as soon as I took the bike out yesterday for my first ride it felt like the rim was shifting/flexing and I pulled the wheel back out, snugged it up again (lightly) and continued on. Less than 1/2 mile later the rear hub started sqeeking LOUDLY and when I flipped the bike, the rear wheel was no longer spinning freely and the whole assembly seemingly just CRANKED itself down completely.

We attempted to back the "spacer" out so that I could limp the bike back but we couldn't put enough torque on it on the trail to back it off and ended up loosening the thru-axle to just allow it to spin to limp back. and managed to lose the retaining nut for the rear axle on the trail as nightfall approached so I called it a night.

Now on to the better news. Like many suggested, I contacted Diamondback customer service. I spoke to a rep who acknowledged the known issue with a batch of hubs on that bike, he said Novatec was addressing RMA's directly. He gave me the contact of Mike @ 951-225-4514.

While I had diamondback on the line I mentioned that my seatpost seemed short vs the listed 350MM on the sizing guide and also that I lost my axle nut.










He said he definitely had some of the retaining nuts and would mail one right out. He also checked his accessories and found me a longer post that he is mailing to me as well at no charge. Great experience there!

When I called Novatec, Speaking to Mike he instructed me to fill out an RMA request on their website and said another person from his group would be calling me within 24 hours to assist in the return of the wheel since its a known issue. They will be installing a different hub and relacing the wheel for me and will ship it right back. At this point I'm waiting for that follow up but its only been an hour or so.

Overall, I think their response was reasonable and helpful. Now to see how quick they can get me turned around. The weather is too perfect right now not to ride!


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

Got my rim/hub back. Popped it back on the bike and good as new. Only problem is they of course had to take the pre-tape off the rim to re-spoke it.

Though I managed to go tubeless first day I had the bike, thanks to how easy it was, I'm seriously stupid when it comes to this. Can anyone link me the right sized, and best tape for my rim so I can get it tubeless again? I see Stans is recommend a lot, I'm just not sure on the size. I don't know which one.

Thanks


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

JK85 said:


> Got my rim/hub back. Popped it back on the bike and good as new. Only problem is they of course had to take the pre-tape off the rim to re-spoke it.
> 
> Though I managed to go tubeless first day I had the bike, thanks to how easy it was, I'm seriously stupid when it comes to this. Can anyone link me the right sized, and best tape for my rim so I can get it tubeless again? I see Stans is recommend a lot, I'm just not sure on the size. I don't know which one.
> 
> Thanks


With a tight bead on a tubeless rim, your really just need to make sure you cover the spoke holes. I think I use 3/4" width on everything from standard rims to fat bike ones. 
Stans is just scotch 8988 tape. I'm not positive on the numbers, but it's similar to that and if you google it you'll find it. You can get 10 rims worth for what it would cost to do two with proper stans.

Just remember to stretch it hard. And get it totally flat.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

JK85 said:


> Got my rim/hub back. Popped it back on the bike and good as new. Only problem is they of course had to take the pre-tape off the rim to re-spoke it.
> 
> Though I managed to go tubeless first day I had the bike, thanks to how easy it was, I'm seriously stupid when it comes to this. Can anyone link me the right sized, and best tape for my rim so I can get it tubeless again? I see Stans is recommend a lot, I'm just not sure on the size. I don't know which one.
> 
> Thanks


Good to know, I'll get the tape in advance.

Novatec sent me a shipping label today and the wheel is off, hopefully have it back soon.

was the new hub noticeably different/upgraded?


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## JK85 (Jun 23, 2016)

tfinator said:


> With a tight bead on a tubeless rim, your really just need to make sure you cover the spoke holes. I think I use 3/4" width on everything from standard rims to fat bike ones.
> Stans is just scotch 8988 tape. I'm not positive on the numbers, but it's similar to that and if you google it you'll find it. You can get 10 rims worth for what it would cost to do two with proper stans.
> 
> Just remember to stretch it hard. And get it totally flat.


Okay, cool. I'll check that out. Thanks tfinator.



ShadowGLI said:


> Good to know, I'll get the tape in advance.
> 
> Novatec sent me a shipping label today and the wheel is off, hopefully have it back soon.
> 
> was the new hub noticing different/upgraded?


Unfortunately, I'd be the wrong person to ask as I know jack**** about hubs and it's internals lol.


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

I'm really enjoying this bike. After having it for 3-4 months, I'm ready to upgrade past the saddle, grips and tubeless. I really like the benefit of the plus size tires, but I have the rear tire pressure up way high in order to reduce the tire squirm in the turns. I'm looking to upgrade the wheelset and would like to keep it under $500. I've been looking at the i45 scrapers with either dt240 or hope evo 2 hubs, but would like to get more feedback here if possible. Pic for attention...


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

I selected the i45 Scrapers with DT350 hubs. LBS will be doing the assembly. Now I'm scratching for some new tires. It never ends.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

really interested to see what you think about the i45's and DT Swiss hubs, I 've heard the hoops really tighten up cornering and the hubs have significantly better engagement.. be sure to share the fit and results, it will be much appreciated.


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

spankbomb said:


> I selected the i45 Scrapers with DT350 hubs. LBS will be doing the assembly. Now I'm scratching for some new tires. It never ends.


You'll really like that wheelset. 
Just make sure to not go too big on the rear tire. I got a set of WTB Trail Boss tires, but when mounted on i45 Scrapers the rear tire stretched just enough to start rubbing at anything over about 10psi. A true 2.8" tire on the i45 is probably a better fit for the rear of a Mason.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

Anyone have any experience putting fork oil in the air chamber of the Raidon fork on this bike to make it more progressive? I'm running about 20% sag and I am happy with the small bump compliance but I am bottoming the fork out (more harshly than I'd like) off some like 2ish foot drops (with landings). I don't want to pump the pressure up and lose the small bump compliance to avoid bottoming the fork out. I notice the fork doesn't really ramp up towards the end of the travel much at all.


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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

spankbomb said:


> I selected the i45 Scrapers with DT350 hubs. LBS will be doing the assembly. Now I'm scratching for some new tires. It never ends.


Please post pics of the new rear wheel with tire clearance. I'm eventually (well, less eventual if my hub explodes) going to build up a new wheelset and I was leaning toward a WTB Asym i35 in the rear over anything wider because of concerns about clearing the chainstays.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Well I think you can add me to the list with the failed hubs. 
I thought I was in the clear but this morning the rear locked almost completely up. I could spin the wheel backwards and it would release. I'd ride a couple hundred yards and it'd lock again. 
I went to release the axle lever and it was way way tighter then I've ever set it, I had to pry it up. The wheel spins free with the lever released but the slightest pressure on the level and it drags. 
When I removed the wheel the hub nut on the cassette side fell off. It had worked its way totally off the threads. I put it back hoping that would cure the problem but no luck. 

Guess I'll call them tomorrow and get a RA#
Any clue on turnaround time?


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

Jatrma said:


> Well I think you can add me to the list with the failed hubs.
> I thought I was in the clear but this morning the rear locked almost completely up. I could spin the wheel backwards and it would release. I'd ride a couple hundred yards and it'd lock again.
> I went to release the axle lever and it was way way tighter then I've ever set it, I had to pry it up. The wheel spins free with the lever released but the slightest pressure on the level and it drags.
> When I removed the wheel the hub nut on the cassette side fell off. It had worked its way totally off the threads. I put it back hoping that would cure the problem but no luck.
> ...


Yup, that sounds like the usual failure. Bummer.

My turnaround time was about 10 days, but that included shipping the entire wheel to and from Alaska. If you can talk them into sending you the replacement hub, and paying to get it re-laced locally, you might be able to get back on the trail more quickly.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

crash_happy said:


> Yup, that sounds like the usual failure. Bummer.
> 
> My turnaround time was about 10 days, but that included shipping the entire wheel to and from Alaska. If you can talk them into sending you the replacement hub, and paying to get it re-laced locally, you might be able to get back on the trail more quickly.


Wow that's way faster than I expected. 
I have a backup bike so I should be able to survive the downtime from the Mason.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

Welp, happened to me today too, at least I was only about a mile and a half from the trailhead via a dirt road. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Johnboat75 (Aug 16, 2015)

I've been waiting for the Mason Trail to come back in stock. I wonder if it's been out of stock this whole time because of the hub issues.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Is anyone planning on riding their Mason in the winter? I would like to, but I'm not seeing any snow tire options...


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## geo253 (May 27, 2016)

Johnboat75 said:


> I've been waiting for the Mason Trail to come back in stock. I wonder if it's been out of stock this whole time because of the hub issues.


I talked to DB last week and they said it would be like February before we see some 2017 Masons. Has anyone been told the same story?


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## Johnboat75 (Aug 16, 2015)

geo253 said:


> I talked to DB last week and they said it would be like February before we see some 2017 Masons. Has anyone been told the same story?


Really, they told me the end of October.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

duh, duh, duhn... and the plot thickens. 


i stumbled across this thread a couple of days ago and yes, they were a steal, but i've been looking at current prices and don't really see them worth it now. what am i missing?


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

fishwrinkle said:


> duh, duh, duhn... and the plot thickens.
> 
> i stumbled across this thread a couple of days ago and yes, they were a steal, but i've been looking at current prices and don't really see them worth it now. what am i missing?


I'm still happy with my buy, the only downfall is a possible bad rear hub but even with downtime it was still $750 for a 27.5+ boost spaced, 1x10 with hydraulic 180mm f/r brakes, tapered head tube, 120mm air shock w lockout, threaded Eco crank and overall really solid build.

As a follow up, I got my wheel back and investigated the hub, perhaps someone with a stock one can pull it apart to compare but the replacement SOUNDS like it has faster engagement, it can be tightened snugly with wrenches and has no feeling of resistance, the biggest thing I noticed is the cap on the brake disk side sits to the outside of the hub seat and has an o-ring seal.





































And rim retaped ready for tubeless again


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Oh, and measured rear rim, 32mm outer, 27mm inner width


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## Kamperdog (Feb 3, 2014)

Watching this thread closely. I haven't noticed any issues yet with mine. I'm loving this thing so far. Im always getting stopped and complimented on it.

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

ShadowGLI said:


> Oh, and measured rear rim, 32mm outer, 27mm inner width


Dear lord so narrow, I knew it was narrow but I was really hoping that it was 32mm inner....
Also has anyone had any issues with their bb? Mine is already super creaky and I don't ride in super wet conditions and keep everything clean. I'm surprised it has already started going...


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

efinses said:


> Dear lord so narrow, I knew it was narrow but I was really hoping that it was 32mm inner....
> Also has anyone had any issues with their bb? Mine is already super creaky and I don't ride in super wet conditions and keep everything clean. I'm surprised it has already started going...


My Bottom Bracket has been great so far.. after the rear hub replacement, all seems quite well.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I rode my bike up in the hills behind my work the other day. I think that I am going to eventually convert my bike to a 1 x11. lol. But I might wait to see how it is after I get use to it. But it was hella fun riding down to the bottom. The shocks worked great!


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

efinses said:


> Dear lord so narrow, I knew it was narrow but I was really hoping that it was 32mm inner....
> Also has anyone had any issues with their bb? Mine is already super creaky and I don't ride in super wet conditions and keep everything clean. I'm surprised it has already started going...


I had a slight creak in mine, I pulled the crank and added a thin layer of grease, silence and smoother operation ever since


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

*Been Upgrading*

So, I finally have some pics and I owe you all some more. First, the what's been done:

Rerouted cables
Shortened stock handlebars to 730mm
ESI Chunky grips (2nd pair)
2.8 WTB Ranger rear
3.0 WTB Bridger front
i45 Scrapers with 350 DT Swiss Hubs tubeless
WTB Speed saddle

I need to post more pics showing the clearance in the rear. Since I usually don't ride in wet/muddy conditions, maybe I could've shoved a 3.0 Ranger in there, who knows.

I still need to fine tune the rear derailleur and try the previously mentioned oil mod for the front fork and upgrade the brake pads. All in due time.

Later,
Jon D.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

spankbomb said:


> So, I finally have some pics and I owe you all some more. First, the what's been done:
> 
> Rerouted cables
> Shortened stock handlebars to 730mm
> ...


How do you like the i45 scrapers? I am looking at either getting those or the sun ringle mulefut 50s (which I can get for a bit cheaper).


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

spankbomb said:


> So, I finally have some pics and I owe you all some more. First, the what's been done:
> 
> Rerouted cables
> Shortened stock handlebars to 730mm
> ...


Looking good, the new wheel/tire combo looks awesome, as does the cable routing... would surely be interested in seeing the clearance on the rear tire with the updated wheels as well.


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

I am 5'8" and wonder if the 19" large frame is too big for me. I am pretty sure I should get the med frame but wondering if anyone else my height rides a large and feels more comfortable on one.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> I am 5'8" and wonder if the 19" large frame is too big for me. I am pretty sure I should get the med frame but wondering if anyone else my height rides a large and feels more comfortable on one.


I'm a hair under 5'10" and have the medium, it's about perfect. At 5'8" I'd recommend the medium


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

Jatrma said:


> I'm a hair under 5'10" and have the medium, it's about perfect. At 5'8" I'd recommend the medium


Dang thought that would be the case. There was a used one up for sale on Craig's.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

The medium would almost certainly be better for you, at 5' 10" I'm on a large, and it occasionally feels on the large side, but overall is a good fit. 

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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> Dang thought that would be the case. There was a used one up for sale on Craig's.


If the price is right, might be worth trying out. I'm 5'10" w a medium but there are times I wished I got the large.


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

ShadowGLI said:


> If the price is right, might be worth trying out. I'm 5'10" w a medium but there are times I wished I got the large.


I'm 6'0" and I think the large is a bit too small, especially with the stock stem. I put a 90mm stem and it's a lot better, but I think it takes a away a little from the intended ride of the bike. My wife is 5'8" and she has ridden it and thinks that it fits just just.

Even being a bit too small, it's still a blast to ride, but I can see why so many plus bike makes have moved to longer top tubes this year.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

kwabbott said:


> I'm 6'0" and I think the large is a bit too small, especially with the stock stem. I put a 90mm stem and it's a lot better, but I think it takes a away a little from the intended ride of the bike. My wife is 5'8" and she has ridden it and thinks that it fits just just.
> 
> Even being a bit too small, it's still a blast to ride, but I can see why so many plus bike makes have moved to longer top tubes this year.


I am 6'0 with short legs(31 inseam) but long arms. I have the Large. It fits me perfectly once I adjusted the seat for my legs. I don't feel over extended at all. So it really depends on your body.

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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I should've been more specific, like Daholla77, I have short legs and a long torso and arms. The length of the frame is great, but the seat feels a bit tall on some nasty stuff even with my dropper all the way down. 

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> I should've been more specific, like Daholla77, I have short legs and a long torso and arms. The length of the frame is great, but the seat feels a bit tall on some nasty stuff even with my dropper all the way down.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Ya until I adjusted the seat I was debating about returning it. Because it was riding all up in my taint. 

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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Ya until I adjusted the seat I was debating about returning it. Because it was riding all up in my taint.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I've started swapping to my stock post when I go to the bike park and won't be sitting and pedaling at all. The solid post let's me drop the seat an extra inch and a half.

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## specialfxn (Oct 25, 2016)

Aloha,

Add me to the list of rear hub failures. Can anyone give me the which hub model it is and where to find the serial number. I am currently filling out the RMA and need the info.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I used the bike's serial number, and the way I found the part number was to jump on the diamondback website and use the chat window that pops up. They'll answer pretty quickly. 

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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

specialfxn said:


> Aloha,
> 
> Add me to the list of rear hub failures. Can anyone give me the which hub model it is and where to find the serial number. I am currently filling out the RMA and need the info.


They said to leave the default hub in the drop down and just put like 123 in the serial number but put a note in the comments/text field of what was going on (that you bought the bike and had the failure) did you call them? They can talk you through it if needed


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## Kamperdog (Feb 3, 2014)

Hey guys, forgive me for asking since I don't have time to go through the whole thread, but what are the symptoms of this hub failure? Should I go through the RA process even though mine seems fine? And what is the oil mod?


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Kamperdog said:


> Hey guys, forgive me for asking since I don't have time to go through the whole thread, but what are the symptoms of this hub failure? Should I go through the RA process even though mine seems fine? And what is the oil mod?


The hub failures are all in the last 3 pages of the thread. The hub failure for me happened when my back wheel started squeaking (like if you were trying to turn a rusty/seized bolt and it didn't want to move) when I was riding on the trail, I pulled my wheel off and was unable to turn the bearing assembly of the wheeel (if you hold the middle of a hub it should spin freely).

That's really it, the issue seems to be that it seats poorly and can tighten itself while riding.


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

*Sorry for the delay*

Been traveling or sick the last three weeks and still don't have a ride report on the new wheel/tire combo. Clearance in the rear on the 2.8 WTB Ranger is about 5/16" to 3/8" at about 25 lbs of pressure.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I finally got my wheel back from Novatec. The delays definitely weren't their fault, but the frustration was incredible. 3 weeks door to door from Minnesota. They received it on a Friday afternoon, and had the new hub laced and shipped the next Monday morning despite some apparent issues at their facility. UPS really pooped the bed though. They sent the wheel to the wrong state, and sent it back to Novatec, who received it, for the second time, the Monday after the first sent it out. Brandon at Novatec relabeled the box and took it to the UPS facility immediately. Brandon was great, by the way, he immediately answered any questions and kept up with me on status. Then UPS continued to suck, as they didn't actually ship the wheel until Wednesday, which meant the wheel didn't arrive back in Minnesota until 8pm last night. 3 weeks to the day that it left here. Normally I'm a super patient dude, but our season is running out of time up here in the North. In fact, I now have 2 riding days left most likey before our first snow which is supposedly coming Friday. 

Again, definitely not the fault of Novatec, and Brandon was great to deal with. I'm going to get the rotor, cassette, tube, and tire back on it tonight hopefully so I can get a couple rides in tomorrow and Thursday afternoons. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

So I heard some creaking noises coming from the head-tube. I decided to pull the stem and take a look.

What I found was a TON of rust in the headset. I ride a little in the rain, but not a lot. The upper headset is caged ball bearings and is all steel. The lower is cartridge, but I don't think its sealed. It is also steel.

Anyway, rust all around. Had to soak everything in wd40, scrub, clean and then heavy coats of marine grease.

Has anyone switched out the stock headset bearings for sealed ones? If so, did you have to pull the cups? or can you just pop the cartridges into the existing cups.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

ElGreco said:


> So I heard some creaking noises coming from the head-tube. I decided to pull the stem and take a look.
> 
> What I found was a TON of rust in the headset. I ride a little in the rain, but not a lot. The upper headset is caged ball bearings and is all steel. The lower is cartridge, but I don't think its sealed. It is also steel.
> 
> ...


Interesting, I wanted to clean and regrease my headtube in the coming weeks, maybe I'll need to order some parts based on what other owners have found


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## Sleepy1 (Sep 27, 2016)

So...
I ordered my Mason Trail on August 3, just as the hub issue was coming to light. Diamondback cancelled my order and I was told I would have the opportunity to purchase again when it was sorted out. I called to talk to a nice guy in sales on November 11 and he said they had several size M in the warehouse. Furthermore, they honored the original price and I am now awaiting the delivery of my bike this Friday. I'm stoked!


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

ElGreco said:


> So I heard some creaking noises coming from the head-tube. I decided to pull the stem and take a look.
> 
> What I found was a TON of rust in the headset. I ride a little in the rain, but not a lot. The upper headset is caged ball bearings and is all steel. The lower is cartridge, but I don't think its sealed. It is also steel.
> 
> ...


I've been thinking about tearing into mine and this prompted me to go ahead and do it. 
I found a small bit of rust on the upper bearing but everything else looked good and clean.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Anyone have a part number/source for derailleur hangers for the Mason? I don't need one, but I'd like to know where I can get spares if/when it comes up. 

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## arsci (Jul 24, 2016)

FourthOf5 said:


> Anyone have a part number/source for derailleur hangers for the Mason? I don't need one, but I'd like to know where I can get spares if/when it comes up.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Replacement Derailleur Hanger Aluminum H317 Diamonback

My Mason came with a bent hanger and the replacements were backordered at DB. I bought this hanger and it worked well.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

arsci said:


> Replacement Derailleur Hanger Aluminum H317 Diamonback
> 
> My Mason came with a bent hanger and the replacements were backordered at DB. I bought this hanger and it worked well.


My hero. Thanks!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

arsci said:


> Replacement Derailleur Hanger Aluminum H317 Diamonback
> 
> My Mason came with a bent hanger and the replacements were backordered at DB. I bought this hanger and it worked well.


Great, I have suspicions that mine is tweaked as well, going to order a couple of these to keep around.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

What should look for or hear If your hanger is tweaked

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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

terrible shifting in some gears no matter what you adjust. ie: barrel, limit or b screw.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=Y7Oo_oHtER8


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

seth's bike hacks is a good channel.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am planning on upgrading my sunrace cassette to their 11 speed cassette. Do I need to change anything out side of the usual of a derailleur and shifter. The guy at the bike shop was saying that I would need a whole new hub to do it. I figure if I stay with the same company it would be a easy change. Thanks D

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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

It says right in the description that it will work on 8-9-10 speed standard hubs. Although it won't give you more range, it will make the ratios closer.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Scrapmetal57,
I saw your detail post regarding the Mason Trail. I'm considering on of the Mason series and was looking for sizing advice. I'm 5'7" with a 29" inseam. I like a longer top tube, especially with the current short stem/wide bar trend. My current 9:zero:7 has a 583mm TT with a 110mm stem. The bike is a small as I wanted decent standover in the snow. I would need a medium in the Mason series but their listed 787mm standover is a concern. Your measurements in your post are different from Diamondback as you show 723.9mm or 28.5" measured 3" from the saddle.
I guess the question is, will a medium work for my short legs as the small size has too short of a TT.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Tiboy said:


> Scrapmetal57,
> I saw your detail post regarding the Mason Trail. I'm considering on of the Mason series and was looking for sizing advice. I'm 5'7" with a 29" inseam. I like a longer top tube, especially with the current short stem/wide bar trend. My current 9:zero:7 has a 583mm TT with a 110mm stem. The bike is a small as I wanted decent standover in the snow. I would need a medium in the Mason series but their listed 787mm standover is a concern. Your measurements in your post are different from Diamondback as you show 723.9mm or 28.5" measured 3" from the saddle.
> I guess the question is, will a medium work for my short legs as the small size has too short of a TT.


I should have mentioned that I'm also considering the 2017 Raleigh Tokul 4130 in a medium as the SO is more favorable at 745mm. My neighbor bought one and it's really nice.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I was talking to CS at Diamondback.com and I explained to them that I have been riding the mason trial for 6months now and I was thinking about upgrading the the drivetrain once it wears out to a 1 x 11 and the guy said that i shouldn't do that because it will take away from performance and that the bike is optimized for 1x 10. So would he be correct or should I put a bigger ring in the back. Or just replace the 10 speed cassette with another 10 speed cassette with a wider range. Looking for a little more umph on the climbs Thanks D


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

i don't see how going from 10 to 11 speed will take away a bikes performance? why don't you just put a smaller ring up front, do you often ride the tall gear with the stock setup?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

When i am on hills I do in my area when i am in the flat areas not so much.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

tall gear meaning 10, not biggest size wise. what i am getting at is why 11 speed if you're not running the gambit on the 10? just throw a cheap n/w up front and call it a day


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Pretty Much if I am not using all of the gears on a consistent basis there is no need to upgrade.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Saw these were listed as $799 direct from Diamondback. Seems most on here got theirs for $750 awhile back. Where did you buy for that price? Seems it should be at least that inexpensive now that 2017s are ready?

Almost bought a Performance Access Growler Charlie 27.5+. Anyone see those? Has 1x11, SLX brakes and a recon air fork. Looked really cool and I wasn't in the market for a 27.5+. Was $799 but they had Double points so it would have been $160 store credit back. Now it is $80 Store credit back.

Reba is far superior of a fork on Mason but would prefer at least Shimano brakes....

Thoughts?

I have a '16 Comp Overdrive now which replaced the Nashbar Overdrive Comp that I think was a '15.

Thoughts?


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Saw these were listed as $799 direct from Diamondback. Seems most on here got theirs for $750 awhile back. Where did you buy for that price? Seems it should be at least that inexpensive now that 2017s are ready?
> 
> Almost bought a Performance Access Growler Charlie 27.5+. Anyone see those? Has 1x11, SLX brakes and a recon air fork. Looked really cool and I wasn't in the market for a 27.5+. Was $799 but they had Double points so it would have been $160 store credit back. Now it is $80 Store credit back.
> 
> ...


We bought them direct from Diamondback, here; Diamondback Bicycles - Sale. That's the only place you could buy the Mason trail for $750. As you can see there are no masons of any level on there now and the trail hasn't been there for quite a while. I know performance and maybe a couple other places have it for msrp or close to it.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Okay, thank you. The Mason with the Reba fork is on sale for $799 free shipping from Diamondback.


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## Odogg79 (Jun 20, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Okay, thank you. The Mason with the Reba fork is on sale for $799 free shipping from Diamondback.


What the??! I couldn't see that when I checked just a little bit ago. And i see the trail is up for 700.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Odogg79 said:


> What the??! I couldn't see that when I checked just a little bit ago. And i see the trail is up for 700.


Diamondback Bicycles - Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason

$799, clearing out the 2016s I guess...


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## GunnyJC (Nov 27, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Pretty Much if I am not using all of the gears on a consistent basis there is no need to upgrade.


Looks like the Mason Pro uses the following 1 x 11 gearset so I would think it could be used on the other versions?

Shimano XT M8000 11spd (11-40t)


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## NoCoRider (Dec 1, 2016)

GunnyJC said:


> Looks like the Mason Pro uses the following 1 x 11 gearset so I would think it could be used on the other versions?
> 
> Shimano XT M8000 11spd (11-40t)


Yes - with enough $$$ for new parts one can upgrade the Mason Trail to a 1x11 setup. First item to check is whether or not the existing freehub is 11spd compatible and if not can a new freehub body be purchased. If the answer to both of these is "no" then add a new rear wheel to the shopping list... Next check to see if the rear derailleur is 11spd compatible - if yes then you'll only need to buy a new shifter.

The 10speed chain and crankset should work fine in 11spd - but buying an 11spd chain will frequently make the drivetrain quieter.


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## NoCoRider (Dec 1, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Diamondback Bicycles - Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason
> 
> $799, clearing out the 2016s I guess...


Just ordered one of these - the Mason is an upgrade to the Mason Trail. IMHO the extra $100 buys a lot of better parts (fork, 2x10 shifters vs 1x10, brakes, tires). The frame and some of the parts remain the same.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> I was talking to CS at Diamondback.com and I explained to them that I have been riding the mason trial for 6months now and I was thinking about upgrading the the drivetrain once it wears out to a 1 x 11 and the guy said that i shouldn't do that because it will take away from performance and that the bike is optimized for 1x 10. So would he be correct or should I put a bigger ring in the back. Or just replace the 10 speed cassette with another 10 speed cassette with a wider range. Looking for a little more umph on the climbs Thanks D


Other than a possible weight savings on the high end 11 speed systems you are not really going to gain much. Most of the current 9-10 speed systems out there are 11-34 or 11-36, the Mason stands out with its 11-40. The 11 speed systems do sometimes have a 42 or 44 big ring, but for the cost ($200+ for the cassette alone) it seems like you'd be better off changing your front gearing if you NEED it for the climbs... personally I feel like the 30t front w/ 40t rear is almost too low as it stands.

It doesn't matter how many gears you have, what matters is your min and max as those are going to determine your climbing gears and speed gears, having one extra interval in the middle is sort of a waste for the money imho.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

NoCoRider said:


> Just ordered one of these - the Mason is an upgrade to the Mason Trail. IMHO the extra $100 buys a lot of better parts (fork, 2x10 shifters vs 1x10, brakes, tires). The frame and some of the parts remain the same.


That thing is a smoking deal, honestly if I had the extra money I'd buy that and sell off the trail, but at this point I have more important bills to cover.


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## Mr. Doom (Sep 23, 2005)

ShadowGLI said:


> Other than a possible weight savings on the high end 11 speed systems you are not really going to gain much. Most of the current 9-10 speed systems out there are 11-34 or 11-36, the Mason stands out with its 11-40. The 11 speed systems do sometimes have a 42 or 44 big ring, but for the cost ($200+ for the cassette alone) it seems like you'd be better off changing your front gearing if you NEED it for the climbs... personally I feel like the 30t front w/ 40t rear is almost too low as it stands.
> 
> It doesn't matter how many gears you have, what matters is your min and max as those are going to determine your climbing gears and speed gears, having one extra interval in the middle is sort of a waste for the money imho.


11-46 XT XT cassette is $78 from Jenson. Sram GX 10-42 is $80 on ebay. Complete 1X11 drivetrain Shifter/cass/chain/der/ring run under $250 now.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Can this bike take a 3.0 tire?

Been considering the Access Growler Charlie 27.5+ since I saw one at the local Performance bike shop... LOVE the Schwalbe Nobby Nic 3.0 tires on this bike that come stock...

Then I saw the deal on the Reba equipped Mason Trail... about $100 more but way better fork, thru axle in rear... Not crazy about SRAM brakes but Shimano brakes I prefer aren't an expensive swap...

The only concern I have is with tire clearance... I was hoping that Performance had a Mason Trail in stock but they didn't. 

Been wanting a FAT BIKE for quite some time but have held back knowing I live in southern California where a tire that fat would probably be overkill. The 27.5+ seems like a good compromise.

Thanks in advance!


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Schwalbe Nobby Nic 3.0 will fit no issue up front, in the rear, especially with wider rims, it might get some light rubbing under cornering as they have pretty solid side tread... 

here is a pic of someones 2.8" so you are only going 1/4" wider you should be okay. That said, it seems like 2.8" is a sweet spot for these bikes for traction without fold/rollover on the tires. They are only a 27mm ID wheel (32mm OD).


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## NoCoRider (Dec 1, 2016)

ShadowGLI said:


> Other than a possible weight savings on the high end 11 speed systems you are not really going to gain much...


I agree the weight savings are negligible. IMHO the single largest advantage of the 1x11 over 1x10 is the wider range available. The 11spd 10-42 is 4.2x from low to high versus the 11-40 (3.6x) of the 10 speed. Next up of course is the uber expensive 1x12 10-50t cassette.

Being a long time roadie it took me a while to learn, and appreciate, that mountain bike cassettes need to have large jumps to reduce the number of times one has to double and triple shift. Or perhaps that's just me?


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## NoCoRider (Dec 1, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Can this bike take a 3.0 tire?
> 
> Been wanting a FAT BIKE for quite some time but have held back knowing I live in southern California where a tire that fat would probably be overkill. The 27.5+ seems like a good compromise.


If you're riding a lot of loose gravel or sand then you'll appreciate a wider tire. Fatter tires also help on steep climbs and descents. I've been seeing some 4" fat bikes and a lot of the mid-fat's lately. So it really comes down to what you're going to be riding and how you want the bike to perform as the fat tires will definitely be more work.


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## NoCoRider (Dec 1, 2016)

Has anyone tried fitting 29er wheels into the Mason Trail? Several mid-fat makers (Scott, Salsa, others) are advertising that one can run a 29x2.3(ish) wheel in place of the 27.5x2.8". In the case of the Salsa Bucksaw, they advertise 26x4, 27.5+ and 29+.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ShadowGLI said:


> Schwalbe Nobby Nic 3.0 will fit no issue up front, in the rear, especially with wider rims, it might get some light rubbing under cornering as they have pretty solid side tread...
> 
> here is a pic of someones 2.8" so you are only going 1/4" wider you should be okay. That said, it seems like 2.8" is a sweet spot for these bikes for traction without fold/rollover on the tires. They are only a 27mm ID wheel (32mm OD).


Pic?


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

NoCoRider said:


> If you're riding a lot of loose gravel or sand then you'll appreciate a wider tire. Fatter tires also help on steep climbs and descents. I've been seeing some 4" fat bikes and a lot of the mid-fat's lately. So it really comes down to what you're going to be riding and how you want the bike to perform as the fat tires will definitely be more work.


Understood. I would keep my 27.5...just looking for something different to add to the stable. Before we got some recent rains, the trails around southern California were super dusty and loose so a bigger tire would have been more advantageous.

Another consideration is I'm looking for something a little "softer" on the ride before I invest in a high dollar (relatively speaking) full suspension...


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Here are some of the prior posts



Biker833 said:


> I put Maxxis chronicles on my Mason Pro. Those tires are by no means aggressively knobby and with the slightest wheel flex I was getting rub on both sides at the top of the triangle. I had to Switch to a 2.8 again.  The stock Bridger tire in the back lasted me about 5 rides with all the rocky terrain in the northeast of PA. So I have the Maxxis 3.0 on front and got a nobby nic with sidewall protection for the rear in 2.8. I spoke to DB and the bike is set up for 3.0 in the rear but I cannot see how with such limited clearance. I mean it is really tight.





spankbomb said:


> So, I finally have some pics and I owe you all some more. First, the what's been done:
> 
> Rerouted cables
> Shortened stock handlebars to 730mm
> ...





spankbomb said:


> Been traveling or sick the last three weeks and still don't have a ride report on the new wheel/tire combo. Clearance in the rear on the 2.8 WTB Ranger is about 5/16" to 3/8" at about 25 lbs of pressure.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Thank you ShadowGLI!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Mr. Doom said:


> 11-46 XT XT cassette is $78 from Jenson. Sram GX 10-42 is $80 on ebay. Complete 1X11 drivetrain Shifter/cass/chain/der/ring run under $250 now.


That's what I was looking at.

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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

I just ordered a Mason Trail! Priced at $660! I cant wait to ride it! Do the stock tires have a weeping problem when converted to tubeless?


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

ocam said:


> I just ordered a Mason Trail! Priced at $660! I cant wait to ride it! Do the stock tires have a weeping problem when converted to tubless?


Hi, how did you get it priced at 660? Showing 700 for me right now.


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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

I got a discount from the company i work for


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## kwabbott (Mar 13, 2011)

ocam said:


> I just ordered a Mason Trail! Priced at $660! I cant wait to ride it! Do the stock tires have a weeping problem when converted to tubeless?


I didn't have any trouble with the stock tires after converting to tubeless. Easy conversion, no leaking, no weeping.


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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

I ended up getting the regular mason for $799 , do you guys think it is worth the extra $?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Morris759 said:


> I ended up getting the regular mason for $799 , do you guys think it is worth the extra $?


Yes, even if it wasn't I would say that though.

The purchase is made! Ride it like you stole it (and post photos)!!!


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

diamondback CS is kind of terrible. I called asking for a reach measurement and the guy didn't know the difference between that and effective top tube. he probably doesn't know what 11 speed would do to the bike (nothing) so he doesn't want to mess things up.

That being said, 11 speed requires a different driver (XD) or the xt setup, and I don't believe the XT setup is that good (spacing drops the chain under backpedaling)


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Does the bike come with tubeless valves?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

No you have to buy those

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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Daholla77 said:


> No you have to buy those
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Bummer. Are the rims setup for tubeless or do you have to buy rim strips?

I have an Overdrive Comp and it came with valves and the rims were already setup...

Thanks in advance for your help!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

On the mason trail they are ready to go.

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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

deviantek said:


> Hi, how did you get it priced at 660? Showing 700 for me right now.


It was a discount through the company i work for


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Bummer. Are the rims setup for tubeless or do you have to buy rim strips?
> 
> I have an Overdrive Comp and it came with valves and the rims were already setup...
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help!


This is the factory taping and a Stans No Tubes Valve installed


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ShadowGLI said:


> This is the factory taping and a Stans No Tubes Valve installed


Nice, thanks for posting! Very close to pulling the trigger on this...


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## deviantek (Jul 6, 2016)

Question: Considering buying a "Mason" for the S/O. Is it as easy as removing 1 of the cogs, the front derailleur, and shifter, to get it to 1x10? What additional parts would I need?

I have the mason trail, and considering getting her a mason to fork swap. Any advice is appreciated. If it's not worth the effort, I'll just get her a trail.

Cheers,
Thanks


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## MASC1104 (Feb 2, 2015)

Just FYI and for those that may not have noticed, DB is spec'ing the Mason with a "Shimano M627 double crankset". The pic on their site of it is shows a RaceFace Ride crank and chainring with the RF graphics blacked out of the pic.

Diamondback Bicycles - Diamondback Bikes, 2016 Mason

The same year model bike, at Jenson's, you can see the RF crank with the graphics. Its also double the price.

Diamondback Mason Bike 2016 > Bikes > Mountain Bikes | Jenson USA

Obviously, change of specs by DB but using an older pic. Just wanted to point that out in case you were expecting one thing and getting another depending on where you bought or what pic you saw.

For that price give me the M627 crank!!!!!


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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

Got my mason today. Still unopened box, very exited I might assemble it tonight


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

GunnyJC said:


> Looks like the Mason Pro uses the following 1 x 11 gearset so I would think it could be used on the other versions?
> 
> Shimano XT M8000 11spd (11-40t)


That's what I was thinking. Because the xt was what I was thinking about upgrading too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Okay, I am pulling the trigger but would like advice on sizing... I am thinking of ordering the Small.

I have a 2016 Diamondback Overdrive Comp in medium and I clear the top tube ~1.5" with my feet flat on the ground.

I tried a Performance Charlie Growler in store and was shocked the small fit me and the medium was too big. The big tires make a difference.

I am 5'11" with ~31.5" inseam. My torso is a bit longer. On my current bike I run a 110mm stem vs stock stem which was 39mm.

Small seems like what I should order. Do you agree?

Thanks in advance!


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Spicy, I'm 5‘7", 30" inseam and I comfortably ride a medium. 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

FourthOf5 said:


> Spicy, I'm 5'7", 30" inseam and I comfortably ride a medium.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Oh my, I guess I should order a medium then?!?! Can others reply with their height and bike size! Thank you in advance!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Oh my, I guess I should order a medium then?!?! Can others reply with their height and bike size! Thank you in advance!


6'0, 31 inseam. Bike size large. I have long arms

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

I'm 5'10, bought a medium and probably could've made a large work as well.

The conventional wisdom is that you shouldn't put a longer stem on a "new trail geometry" bike like this, because it is designed for relatively wide handlebars and a short stem.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Thank you everyone for the replies, EXTREMELY helpful as I would have ordered the wrong size! I am going to order a medium!


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I'm 5' 10", long arms, and the large is great, though a medium probably would've worked well too. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

I just got my Mason (not Trail, regular Mason) in the mail and put it together.

Initial observations:
- Tires: WTB Trailblazer tires are disappointing; only measure 2.375" wide, far from the the 2.8" claimed
- Weight: weighs approx 30.4 lbs. Hopefully I can get that under 30 by going tubeless
- Stem: I was supposed to get a 45mm stem but they included a 60mm
- Brakes: tons of play; need to be bled before riding
- Seatpost: with today's sloping top tubes, why would anyone even make a 300mm stem; you'll need to budget for replacing the seatpost as it is way too short for anyone with anything close to normal proportions

EDIT / UPDATE: just chatted with DB customer service. Since their size guide lists the 45mm stem and 350mm seatpost they're sending me the proper replacements free. Nice!


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> I'm 5' 10", long arms, and the large is great, though a medium probably would've worked well too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk





WerewolfJones said:


> I'm 5'10, bought a medium and probably could've made a large work as well.
> 
> The conventional wisdom is that you shouldn't put a longer stem on a "new trail geometry" bike like this, because it is designed for relatively wide handlebars and a short stem.


I'm also 5'10" and went with the medium.

If you look at the Mason geometry the Medium seems like is much more in line with today's desired geometry.

The top tube length in the large is only increased by 18mm / 0.75" over the medium.

But the large increases the seatpost length by 51mm / 2 inches.

The Large also comes with a 60mm stem (medium comes with a 45mm stem) to further increase reach. I'd rather see DB increase the reach on the large via longer top tube - not a longer stem.

I wanted the shorter seatpost length of the medium should I decide to run a dropper seatpost in the future.

And if I find the medium a little cramped and want longer reach I can move up from a 45mm stem to a 60mm stem. Much easier to change stems than change frames.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

Like I said, the medium probably would've worked well too. I've been considering swapping to a shorter stem, and a shorter seatpost would be nice so that I could run a longer dropper, but those are minor complaints. Overall I'm quite happy with the fit. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

tjc4golf said:


> I just got my Mason (not Trail, regular Mason) in the mail and put it together.
> 
> Initial observations:
> - Tires: WTB Trailblazer tires are disappointing; only measure 2.375" wide, far from the the 2.8" claimed
> ...


On a plus side, the 180/160mm brakes are actually 180mm Front and Rear so you got that going for ya


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

WTB Bridger Light Tire - 27.5 x 3.0 on sale at REI for $29.93. Bought a couple to try though not sure one will fit in the rear...


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

Really 2.375" wide tires? that isn't a 27.5+ then? Can anyone else confirm that the tires aren't mid-fat? I might have to get the trail.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

I just ordered a mason yesterday and also the the wtb bridger 3.0 tires to from Rei. Can anyone confirm the internal width of db offpiste32 wheels? Worried that it will be too narrow for 3.0 tires.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

modturnip75 said:


> Really 2.375" wide tires? that isn't a 27.5+ then? Can anyone else confirm that the tires aren't mid-fat? I might have to get the trail.


I don't have calipers to measure properly. I just lay a tape measure across the top and do my best to measure from widest point to widest point so it may not be exact.

That said I've probably measured 10x and I've gotten as small as 2.25" and as large as 2.45" but 2.375" is by for the most common measurement I come up with.

Here's a pic of the WTB Trailblazer on the Mason's Off Piste 32 rims with ruler:

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

It was hard to hold ruler and take pic at same time but should give you a good idea.

Also, here's a pic next to my other bike with a 29 x 2.25 Nobby Nic (which actually measures 2.125" using my ruler method) for comparison.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

I read two reviews of WTB Bridger 27.5+ tires that were supposed to measure 3.0" and reviewers reported they measures 2.95" and 3.0". But I beleive both of those reviewers were running rims wider than the 32mm rims that come with the Mason and Mason trail.

I'm thinking with plus size bikes the rim width may play a bigger role in determining the tire width than it does on non-plus bikes.

So I'm not sure who to point the finger at here. Did WTB mark the tire as being much bigger than it actually is? Or is DB at fault for providing rims that are too narrow for plus tires?


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Whew. Finally worked my way through this whole thread.  We get discount pricing direct from Diamondback where I work and I noticed on the discount site they had the regular Mason for $795 so I pulled the trigger on one. They had the Mason Trail for $660 but only had it in a 17" and I think I'm probably better off on the 19" (6'0"). 

I'm a former road racer but have 0 experience on MTB. This seemed like a solid choice especially for the money, but from reading this I can tell I have a lot to learn. Looking to go tubeless out of the gate (sounds like it's pretty straight forward to convert). 

It sounds like the stock tires on the regular Mason are thinner than advertised which is disappointing, so new tires might not be far behind (suggestions appreciated).


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Chadz said:


> I just ordered a mason yesterday and also the the wtb bridger 3.0 tires to from Rei. Can anyone confirm the internal width of db offpiste32 wheels? Worried that it will be too narrow for 3.0 tires.


On the Mason Trail they are listed as a 32mm rim, internally they measure 27mm w/ a caliper gauge.



tjc4golf said:


> I don't have calipers to measure properly. I just lay a tape measure across the top and do my best to measure from widest point to widest point so it may not be exact.
> 
> Here's a pic of the WTB Trailblazer on the Mason's Off Piste 32 rims with ruler:
> 
> ...


What is on the side of the tires? does it say 27.5x2.8?

found this in a google search for that tire, 









Maybe they fitted the wrong size tire by accident?

I know the trail is listed as having a 3.5 when in actuality the manufacturer lists it as a 3.5x2.8 tire (HxW (its oval vs circular). But the WTB, from what i've seen is a width measurement.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

ravenmore said:


> It sounds like the stock tires on the regular Mason are thinner than advertised which is disappointing, so new tires might not be far behind (suggestions appreciated).


I'm new to 27.5+ bikes / tires so I don't have personal experience with all the tires.

And tires will perform differently in 26, 27.5 27.5+, and 29 varieties.

That said, the consensus seems to be that with wider plus tires you have more tire area in contact with the ground which provides improved traction.

Because of the greater contact area, you are less dependent on aggressive tread patterns for grip. And you might want to run a less aggressive tread pattern because aggressive tread patterns tend to add weight and increase rolling resistance.

So, if I could pick any two 27.5+ tires for my bike, not based on personal experience with the 27.5+ models, but performance in 29" size and the more contact area theory, I'd run Schwalbe Nobby Nic 3.0 up front and Schwalbe Rocket Ron 3.0 in the back (both with "snakeskin" for increased sidewall strength).

Both are light, fast rolling and very well regarded.

I like the Nobby Nic more as a front tire because it has more aggressive tread than the Rocket Ron and I find tread makes more of a difference up front with cornering / steering grip. But I imagine the Nobby Nic would make a decent rear tire too and NN front and back would be my second choice.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

ShadowGLI said:


> What is on the side of the tires? does it say 27.5x2.8?


Yes, it says 2.8 x 27.5.



ShadowGLI said:


> found this in a google search for that tire,


69.3mm would translate to 2.73" which is much more in line with what I'd expect from a 2.8" tire. Maybe the person who took the photo is running their tires on wider rims... idk?


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Cool thanks. I'm going to be commuting a lot on this bike so I might go with the Rocket Ron on both the front and back. I'm fortunate in that I have a 12 mile commute to work with probably 80% of it on dedicated bike path and a good chunk of that is going through parks with crushed granite trails. My road bike would wash out and get squirrely in areas where the gravel gets a little deep. There are also a bunch of full blown mountain bike trails off to the sides in the parks the main trail cuts through, so I'll be exploring those as well now.


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## RC Av8r (Aug 7, 2016)

Add me to the Mason owners club.

I stumbled onto this thread the other day and couldn't pass up the screammin' deal on a Mason comp. $1308 delivered! I priced the components individually and it came out to over $1700. Not including the Frame and a few other items. Get it while you can!!

If no one answers the tire width on a larger rim I will when my comp gets here Tues (fingers crossed). The comp has 50mm rims.


I do have a question for anyone that might know. Are Shimmano SLX (M675) brakes any better than the Avid DB3's that come on the comp?

I just installed those on my current 2006 stumpjumper this summer. And just had to replace the rear brake lever last week cause a tree decided to jump infront of me on a tight turn....


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Chadz said:


> I just ordered a mason yesterday and also the the wtb bridger 3.0 tires to from Rei. Can anyone confirm the internal width of db offpiste32 wheels? Worried that it will be too narrow for 3.0 tires.


I don't have calipers but I have the Bridger 3.0 on my trail and have had zero issues. 
Here's a pic with clearances


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

Does anyone have recommendations for a good tire to run for snow?


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> WTB Bridger Light Tire - 27.5 x 3.0 on sale at REI for $29.93. Bought a couple to try though not sure one will fit in the rear...


ohhhh good deal. did they fit?


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## Osco (Apr 4, 2013)

"WTB Bridger Light Tire - 27.5 x 3.0 "
So they call that light ?
1100 plus grams ? one review said 1200 was listed weight. I'm glad I don't ride in rocky places but to stop sidewall rips I guess. 
I considered my Rekon 27.5 x 2.8's heavy at 800 grams
Or are all 3.0 wides that heavy ??


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

modturnip75 said:


> ohhhh good deal. did they fit?


Got the tires; not the bike. Haven't been home the last two times they tried to deliver and probably won't open up the bike until Xmas...

Tires look nice though!


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Jatrma said:


> I don't have calipers but I have the Bridger 3.0 on my trail and have had zero issues.
> Here's a pic with clearances
> View attachment 1109486


Thanks. I only ordered 1 for the front. So is it a good match for the stock wheel? Grips well and not too rounded?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

So I hope this wasn't an impulse buy, but I bought a Mason Comp last night. I was looking for a $2K-ish hardtail but couldn't pass this up for $1220 shipped. Hopefully this bike rips.

...and now I wait.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

It should rip, its a great value every day but when its half price its an epic steal.


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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

I rode my Mason Trail for a week now and its awesome! Love plus tires! And it was easy to convert to tubeless. I used the stock tires and the pre-installed rim tape was great.


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

Chadz said:


> Thanks. I only ordered 1 for the front. So is it a good match for the stock wheel? Grips well and not too rounded?


I've only been riding for about 9 months so I'm completely new to MTB, this is my first real bike but I grew up on a bike and MTB is like 2nd nature to me. 
I think it has a ton of grip. Compared to the stock tires that came on the trail, the Bridger is much better. Rolls faster, and has more grip.

It could probably benefit from a wider rim bit perfectly fine to me.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

ShadowGLI said:


> On the Mason Trail they are listed as a 32mm rim, internally they measure 27mm w/ a caliper gauge.
> 
> What is on the side of the tires? does it say 27.5x2.8?
> 
> ...


Thanks. I spoke with DB cs and was told the rims are "32mm ext and about 29.5 int", I dont know how accurate that is. Artscyclery lists the trailblazers as 2.67 wide on a 44.75int rim WTB Trail Blazer 27.5 Plus Tire. These are def undersized. I have a 2.4 goma on oozy 295 rims on my commencal and the tb doesnt look much bigger. I will be picking up the bridger today and will be trying it out.

For people looking for a wheel upgrade, these are $375 and 35int Mercury Wheels X3 27.5 Plus Boost Wheelset | Competitive Cyclist. Also, for people who have upgraded to 11sp, I would like to buy your sunrace casette if you're selling.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

So this might be a silly question, but here goes... Wouldn't one be able to run regular 27.5 tires on these rims? Might be an option for those getting new wider rims... I want this to be a primarily 27.5+ bike so might consider getting wider rims for the stock hubs down the road... Just a thought, not sure it will matter in my case...


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

The tires will fit but you will lower your bottom bracket, don't know by how much but could mean pedal strikes when you ride.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chadz said:


> The tires will fit but you will lower your bottom bracket, don't know by how much but could mean pedal strikes when you ride.


Yeah. Mason BB height is listed at 13", so it might be OK to give up a bit, as long as the difference was less than an inch. No guarantees on performance though.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Okay, that makes sense. A set of 29" wheels would make more sense...


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Okay, that makes sense. A set of 29" wheels would make more sense...


I believe this frame is virtually identical to the original mason frame, which was an aggressive 29er hardtail. I think they simply widened the drops and called it a B+ now. My 29er wheels fit on this frame but I'd like to get a set of wheels that are directly compatible (ie boost) so I can simply swap between one and the other (fat for winter, narrow for road and kid hauling).


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Got my Mason yesterday and built it up. I had wonderful luck in that as I was taking all the packaging off the bike fell over on its side. Like buttered toast it fell with the bad side down and went down on the drive train. Since handlebars and pedals weren’t installed the rear derailer took the brunt of it, and it bent the derailer hanger hard enough that the derailer was in between spokes. I bent it out by hand. It’s working but needless to say shifting is a little off. I’m going to swing it by a shop and have them do a more professional job. 

I hope I put it together right. The instructions for installing the front brake caliper weren’t very clear. Did the best I could by looking at pics of assembled bikes. It is working. Does the caliper cable really run inside the fork? The instructions did say to do that. The front


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Here is a pic of my front caliper installed - let me know if something is 'off'.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

sandwich said:


> I believe this frame is virtually identical to the original mason frame, which was an aggressive 29er hardtail. I think they simply widened the drops and called it a B+ now. My 29er wheels fit on this frame but I'd like to get a set of wheels that are directly compatible (ie boost) so I can simply swap between one and the other (fat for winter, narrow for road and kid hauling).


I believe the 29" version had shorter chainstays and slacker head angle. The HA difference might be because of the longer fork. They might have just changed the rear triangle.


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## RC Av8r (Aug 7, 2016)

For those that were wondering the width of the trailblazer 2.8's on wider rims.

I got my Mason Comp today and on the DB OffPiste50 rims the sidewalls of the 2.8" tires measure 2.78". The lugs on the other hand only measure 2.36".

Hope that helps some.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Hi guys,
I'm tempted on jumping on this. I'm looking for an AM HT bike that's easy to manual, but I notice the chainstays is 440mm, which is longer than the Overdrive I currently own. Does it mean that this bike will actually be harder to manual? What's your thought?


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

joxong said:


> Hi guys,
> I'm tempted on jumping on this. I'm looking for an AM HT bike that's easy to manual, but I notice the chainstays is 440mm, which is longer than the Overdrive I currently own. Does it mean that this bike will actually be harder to manual? What's your thought?


I haven't practiced manuals that much, but the biggest problem I have with getting the front end up is that I'm a sissy.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Hi guys,
> I'm tempted on jumping on this. I'm looking for an AM HT bike that's easy to manual, but I notice the chainstays is 440mm, which is longer than the Overdrive I currently own. Does it mean that this bike will actually be harder to manual? What's your thought?


I should be getting mine tomorrow. I'll get it built up and give my 2 cents. I don't think 17.3" is unreasonable, but it was definitely one of the reasons I hesitated to buy the bike. I'm interested to see how the geometry all works together. Chainstays don't always tell the whole story.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

:madman:

Wifey picked up the bike from the local FedEx office. The box was open so she had them make a note but checked quickly and it seemed everything was there. Just took a look at it and BUMMER! I don't know if this was FedEx handling the package abruptly with three attempted deliveries or Diamondback packed it badly. The seatpost/seat was definitely loose which I'm sure caused this.

Going to put a claim though Diamondback tonight...let them deal w/ FedEx if need be. I just want a bike that isn't gouged...


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ravenmore said:


> Got my Mason yesterday and built it up. I had wonderful luck in that as I was taking all the packaging off the bike fell over on its side. Like buttered toast it fell with the bad side down and went down on the drive train. Since handlebars and pedals weren't installed the rear derailer took the brunt of it, and it bent the derailer hanger hard enough that the derailer was in between spokes. I bent it out by hand. It's working but needless to say shifting is a little off. I'm going to swing it by a shop and have them do a more professional job.


One of my favorite tools is the Park Derailleur Alignment tool. Every bike I have checked with it has been out of alignment.

Checked out my damaged bike. As mentioned earlier, the width of the tires is disappointing. I measured and these Mason tires are only 1/8" wider than the 2.2" tires on my Diamondback Overdrive! I hope the 3" tires I bought are significantly wider...I know the narrow rims on this Mason aren't helping. The rim width is the same as my regular bike.

It does seem there is good room for bigger tires even in the rear. I don't want to have to get wider rims right off the bat to have a real plus bike...otherwise having two hardtails with same tires is pointless...


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Lovespicyfood said:


> View attachment 1110278
> 
> 
> :madman:
> ...


That sucks. The box mine came in was opened as well and taped shut when it arrived.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks s0ckeyeus. Waiting eagerly of your opinion. I agree chainstays length wouldn't tell the whole story. With it being an aggressive AM, I would think it would be easier or the same. What kind of bike do you have now?



s0ckeyeus said:


> I should be getting mine tomorrow. I'll get it built up and give my 2 cents. I don't think 17.3" is unreasonable, but it was definitely one of the reasons I hesitated to buy the bike. I'm interested to see how the geometry all works together. Chainstays don't always tell the whole story.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Thanks s0ckeyeus. Waiting eagerly of your opinion. I agree chainstays length wouldn't tell the whole story. With it being an aggressive AM, I would think it would be easier or the same. What kind of bike do you have now?


My current bike is not much to brag about. It's a pretty much non-stock '08 Gary Fisher Marlin I've been riding since 2007. It's been a decent bike and seen all sorts of trails it wasn't necessarily designed for, but I'm looking forward to finally getting something more current that hopefully fits my riding style better. We'll see.

My Mason Comp was delivered this morning. I half-seriously considered going home "sick," but I've made it the whole day. Only 10 minutes left + travel time...


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Ha ha.. I definitely know that feeling 

I purchased the 2016 Overdrive Comp just 3 months ago when I started mountain biking. So I really need to have a good excuse to tell my SO to be buying another bike so soon.



s0ckeyeus said:


> My current bike is not much to brag about. It's a pretty much non-stock '08 Gary Fisher Marlin I've been riding since 2007. It's been a decent bike and seen all sorts of trails it wasn't necessarily designed for, but I'm looking forward to finally getting something more current that hopefully fits my riding style better. We'll see.
> 
> My Mason Comp was delivered this morning. I half-seriously considered going home "sick," but I've made it the whole day. Only 10 minutes left + travel time...


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Just did tubeless. Trail blazer vs bridger.The bridger is a taller tire, im guessing about half an inch.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

OK. So it took about 5 hours, but I finally got my Mason Comp together enough to ride. Anyone who has small children might understand how hard it is to get this sort of thing done despite a million interruptions, entire shelves brought crashing to the ground, breathing treatments, bath time, meltdowns, etc. I had to move the brake levers in-board to get them just in the right spot for one-finger braking and get the dropper post lever in the right spot. I still need to adjust the derailleurs and maybe straighten out the rear rotor a bit, but my bike is rideable. I strapped on a light and took it for a spin in a park right down the street from my house.

For me, this bike was like a new pair of jeans. At first, I wasn't a fan. The tires were too big and "soft." The top tube wasn't long enough. The chainstays weren't short enough. The riding position was too upright. I'm 1/2" shy of 6'1" but I needed the dropper post inserted all the way, which was a little surprising (not to mention, whoever constructed the post tucked in the saddle side cable end just the wrong way so that it actuated the dropper even when the lever was released). I had my doubts about this thing.

I didn't find manuals especially easy or difficult. Part of the issue might be the 6 pound front wheel (fully loaded). However, I could hop this bike like a beast and wheelie drops were easier than on my 26er. I was impressed by the way the bike handles. It felt stable and confidence inspiring in even tight turns. I'm pretty sure it turns better than my other bike. It climbs surprisingly well. I pointed the bike straight up a couple very steep grassy hills and made it up no sweat with very little squirm on the front end. Descending was fantastic too. I rode down a steep, rocky decline (basically a drainage area with 6"+ rocks) I'd always wondered if it was rideable. With this bike, it was.

That was pretty much the theme of my ride. I kept seeing what I could actually do with this thing, and came away riding features I'd never ridden before. By the end of the short hour I spent outside, I was seriously impressed. This bike is not for everyone, but I'm pretty sure it is for me. I do wish the bike was a bit lighter, but it doesn't feel heavy when riding, except when trying to manual (of all things). Going tubeless should help out a bit. I still need to get the bike out to the trails to test it and see how it handles jumps, but I think I'll be happy with it.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Chadz said:


> Just did tubeless. Trail blazer vs bridger.The bridger is a taller tire, im guessing about half an inch.
> View attachment 1110439


Thanks much for posting that pic! That tire looks HUGE! This makes me happy as I wanted a thick tire compared to my other bike.

What's the actual width of the bigger tire?

Been reading up on rim width discussions. Seems the regular Mason and Mason Trail have rim widths that are a little narrow. However, it seems there are no standards and the difference in that Bridger tire is a perfect example! A narrow rim can make the tire more rounder which can aid maneuverability but then apparently you can't run as air pressure as low as the sidewalls will flex more.

Pretty interesting...


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

joxong said:


> Ha ha.. I definitely know that feeling
> 
> I purchased the 2016 Overdrive Comp just 3 months ago when I started mountain biking. So I really need to have a good excuse to tell my SO to be buying another bike so soon.


Funny, I purchased the exact same bike 3 months ago also! I could resist the clearance price and the air fork was a worthy upgrade from my older Overdrive Comp. Sold the old bike for a decent amount so the newer model was cheap. Wasn't sure if I was going to like the 27.5 tires (had 29er's on the older bike) and ended up liking them more!


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Lots of great info here to read! I'm considering a Mason and was wondering if anyone has successfully removed any of the overdone Diamondback branding the various Mason models are covered with. I don't mind a few locations but not on every piece and part of the bike. I have removed silkscreened logo from stems, handlebars, seat posts with acetone safely as long as the components black base color was anodized. Anybody removed decals from the frames or components with success?


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

So mason + bridger tires is ~ $160 more than the mason trail. Still a better pick based on the shock and components on the mason?

I really think I want plus sized tires and those small rims seem to negate the big tires. Kinda sad DB didn't include the plus size wider rims all the way down the line.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Tiboy said:


> Lots of great info here to read! I'm considering a Mason and was wondering if anyone has successfully removed any of the overdone Diamondback branding the various Mason models are covered with. I don't mind a few locations but not on every piece and part of the bike. I have removed silkscreened logo from stems, handlebars, seat posts with acetone safely as long as the components black base color was anodized. Anybody removed decals from the frames or components with success?


Not possible on the frames as decals are clear coated.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

@Lovespicyfood, the knobs measure around 2.9" for the Bridger vs 2.4" for the Trailblazer.

@modturnip75, the best deal right now is the Raleigh Tokul 4130. Just found it after my purchase. If i didnt have my Mason, this is what I would get. It comes with Yari fork, NX 1x11, dropper seatpost and 50mm rims for $1019.99 thru corporate discount. I do like the geo on the mason better and the tokul is steel frame if that matters to you.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Chadz said:


> @Lovespicyfood, the knobs measure around 2.9" for the Bridger vs 2.4" for the Trailblazer.
> 
> @modturnip75, the best deal right now is the Raleigh Tokul 4130. Just found it after my purchase. If i didnt have my Mason, this is what I would get. It comes with Yari fork, NX 1x11, dropper seatpost and 50mm rims for $1019.99 thru corporate discount. I do like the geo on the mason better and the tokul is steel frame if that matters to you.


Yes, the 2017 Raleigh Tokul 4130 is a great option, well done with a nice build and 50mm rims. My neighbor has one and I was impressed, an excellent vaule at 1019.00.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Raleigh and Diamondback are same owners; makes sense.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

@s0ckeyeus,
Thanks for your early review. Amazing you can get it all build up and even trial run after work and with small kids in tow too. Definitely appreciate the effort. I think I'm just about sold on the Mason Comp . Do you know how many mm the travel of the dropper post is? I asked DB that question and they didn't know.

@Lovespicyfood,
So do you own both 2016 Overdrive Comp & 2016 Mason (Comp as well?) now? If so, how do you compare the two? I'm considering the Mason Comp, and wondering if I should keep both or they're close enough that the Mason can be my primary ride.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

joxong said:


> @Lovespicyfood,
> So do you own both 2016 Overdrive Comp & 2016 Mason (Comp as well?) now? If so, how do you compare the two? I'm considering the Mason Comp, and wondering if I should keep both or they're close enough that the Mason can be my primary ride.


Yea, I own both. My Mason is the regular version. However, my first bike was delivered with damage. The replacement is at FedEx waiting to be picked up.

I have Bridger Tires and will go tubeless right off the bat. My thoughts are that they will be significantly different so I will keep both! 

That's the plan at least...


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Tiboy said:


> Yes, the 2017 Raleigh Tokul 4130 is a great option, well done with a nice build and 50mm rims. My neighbor has one and I was impressed, an excellent vaule at 1019.00.


Personally not a fan of a steel frame though I know many are. My biggest issue is it can RUST.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> @s0ckeyeus,
> Thanks for your early review. Amazing you can get it all build up and even trial run after work and with small kids in tow too. Definitely appreciate the effort. I think I'm just about sold on the Mason Comp . Do you know how many mm the travel of the dropper post is? I asked DB that question and they didn't know.


Not sure. I actually think DB should have gone with a shorter travel post to allow a greater range of default saddle heights. Like I mentioned earlier, for some people the bike could fit great if they could get the seatpost down to the right height. I have mine pretty much all the way down to the seat collar, despite being almost 6'1". With the seatpost fully lowered, the saddle is well out of the way. I probably won't have to lower it that far in real life.

DB's listed seatpost length corresponds to the 100mm travel version of the KS Supernatural, but if you compare the travel of the seatpost to the travel of my fork, it doesn't appear to be the 100mm version. Comparing the seatpost to the fork stanchions, I would guess my post has 125mm of travel. I don't know. Maybe I got a longer version. The stock pic seems shorter: https://www.diamondback.com/shop/me...ikes-16-mason-comp-blk-profile.jpg_1458762939

Unfortunately, DB includes the non-tubeless ready Trailblazer on the Mason and Mason Comp. I might still have a go with tubeless though. I have run non-tubeless ready tires as tubeless with success in the past. Not a huge deal, but it might be good to know. I'm going to keep my eye out for tire deals. The Bridger deal is nice, but I'm not sure I want to go 3.0.

Here is a pic of mine built, all stock except for the seat collar:


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Unfortunately, DB includes the non-tubeless ready Trailblazer on the Mason and Mason Comp. I might still have a go with tubeless though. I have run non-tubeless ready tires as tubeless with success in the past. Not a huge deal, but it might be good to know. I'm going to keep my eye out for tire deals. The Bridger deal is nice, but I'm not sure I want to go 3.0.


I didn't realize the Trailblazer was offered in a non-tubless ready version.

Per the WTB website the Trailblazer is "Available only in a TCS tubeless option to properly benefit from enhanced volume"

s0ckeyeus, did you get this ask DB or WTB about this?

Regardless of whether it's tubeless ready or not (I'm running mine tubeless) it seems to me that biggest weaknesses of the Mason are the rims and tires.

The 32mm outside / 29.5 internal width on the Mason Trail and Mason small for a plus rim.

And the Trailblazers have been a bit disappointing to me so far (~20 miles ridden).

(1) Width - I emailed WTB saying my trailblazers aren't anywhere near 2.8". In response WTB stated "In our experience these tires mount up closer to a 2.6 on wider rims, though again the width of the rim will be a large factor." So really this is a 2.6" tire on a wide rim and probably a 2.4 - 2.5" on the narrow Mason / Mason Trail rims.

(2) Knob width - since the knobs are so narrow and the tire has a squared profile, leaning the bike hard in turns feels a bit sketchy to me. Like if I lean to hard I'll lose the side knobs / traction.

(3) Durability - I tore an outside knob partially off in my first 10 miles riding on familiar XC trails on which I've never had any tire damage in 2+ years of riding. Tear was too big for sealant to plug. I applied some Gorilla Glue and now it holds air but I have no idea how long that will last.

(4) Weight - tires seem to roll fast once spinning but are definitely more work to get spinning than the 29" tires on my old bike. I took the tire off to apply the Gorilla Glue to the inside of the tear as well. Since the tire was off I figured I'd weigh it. Weighed in at 1060-1070 grams. Stated weight of 980g isn't light. 1070g is pretty damn heavy (especially for a 2.4-2.6" tire). In light of the comments above regarding these not being tubeless tires, I'm wondering if these tires are cheaper in other regards (weight? durability?) too.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

The trailblazers we have dont have the tcs labeling. If you look at the specs on the db website, only the pro has the tcs tires whereas regular mason and comp have trailblazer 27tpi. Im guessing what we have are factory only tires that are rated non-tubless and not available for consumer purchase.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tjc4golf said:


> I didn't realize the Trailblazer was offered in a non-tubless ready version.
> 
> Per the WTB website the Trailblazer is "Available only in a TCS tubeless option to properly benefit from enhanced volume"
> 
> s0ckeyeus, did you get this ask DB or WTB about this?


Yes, DB told me they were not the same tires as on the Pro. Like Chadz said, these must be a OE tire. The rims on the Mason and Mason Trail are too skinny, but the ones on the Comp are huge. I almost wish they were a little smaller. Still with the savings on my bike and being $800 under budget, I could always upgrade to a new wheelset for my Comp.

If the Gorilla Glue doesn't hold, you can always patch the tube on the inside with a standard patch. I've had good luck with that, even with small sidewall tears.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

P.S. I confirmed my suspicion about my dropper. It has 150 printed right on it.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Swapped my rear tire with a torn sidewall to the front with the oem tube, redid tubeless in the rear. Fixed the tension on my recently installed dropper post, and reworked the cockpit for looks as well as to stop the rear brake from killing the finish on the form any further. Also swapped the grips around to get the logo facing forward.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Is it normal for cable to damage the paint job? I'm noticing the same thing on my current Diamondback. Or it's just that Diamondback doesn't have good paint job?


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

I can't decide if I should buy the Reg Mason w/Bridger 3" Tires. That seems like it would give me the 27.5 plus experience even with narrow rims. Or if I should just upgrade a lot and get a 1500-1600 bike at the LBS. 

This is my FIRST mtn bike in 20 years. I live in UTAH so I have tons epic of trails and terrain nearby. I assume the Mason will work okay here but the people I see here run full suspension. 

Any of you here that have owned the bike (Trail or regular Mason) can you tell me do you regret it? Am I going to want a new bike next year?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

joxong said:


> Is it normal for cable to damage the paint job? I'm noticing the same thing on my current Diamondback. Or it's just that Diamondback doesn't have good paint job?


That's normal. Usually people put little stickers or tape to protect a frame (if they care).


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

I have the Mason trail and it's bone stock except seat and peddles. I absolutely love the bike. No issues.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

joxong said:


> Is it normal for cable to damage the paint job? I'm noticing the same thing on my current Diamondback. Or it's just that Diamondback doesn't have good paint job?


The cable routing from the factory is terrible, too long, improperly routed etc. Spending the time to clean things up would be the first thing to do.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

For those that have gone tubeless with the Bridger tires, how much Stan's did you use for each tire? 4oz?

It was not easy to get these tires on, boy are they tight on the rim!


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> For those that have gone tubeless with the Bridger tires, how much Stan's did you use for each tire? 4oz?
> 
> It was not easy to get these tires on, boy are they tight on the rim!


On the trail I did just under 1/2 cup,


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

modturnip75 said:


> I can't decide if I should buy the Reg Mason w/Bridger 3" Tires. That seems like it would give me the 27.5 plus experience even with narrow rims. Or if I should just upgrade a lot and get a 1500-1600 bike at the LBS.
> 
> This is my FIRST mtn bike in 20 years. I live in UTAH so I have tons epic of trails and terrain nearby. I assume the Mason will work okay here but the people I see here run full suspension.
> 
> Any of you here that have owned the bike (Trail or regular Mason) can you tell me do you regret it? Am I going to want a new bike next year?


You realize they have the awesome comp for $1,200 right? Dropper, wider rims etc


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

No regrets. Love the 1x setup on the trail but the regular Mason at $799 is a steal.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ShadowGLI said:


> On the trail I did just under 1/4 cup,


Wow, that's only 2 ounces...hmmm... I am kind of new to tubeless having done it for the first time on my Overdrive Comp. I have to say I like it, being able to run lower tire pressures really helps traction.

Unfortunately, the Overdrive Comp tires weep sealant. Not uncommon from what I've read.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Before you ride, do the Stan's shake, and if you can't hear the stuff sloshing around, then you need more. 

Some tires take more to seal up then others. There's no set number or formula.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I am starting out with around 4 oz of sealant in my tires. I had to get a compressor to get the front tire seated, since I took the tire off completely to see how much it weighed. I left half of the rear tire seated and was able to get the job done with a floor pump.

I might upgrade my wheelset if I can find a good deal. Lots of people are complaining about the narrow rim on the Mason Trail, but the 50mm Mason Comp is a bit big, and that adds extra weight. My frame with everything minus wheels weighed 19 lbs. The wheelset with tubes, tires, and rotors weighed like 12-13 lbs. I'm pretty happy with the fork, dropper, and other components on my Comp, but I think I'd prefer a lighter wheel with like a 35mm - 40mm internal rim width.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Chadz said:


> The trailblazers we have dont have the tcs labeling. If you look at the specs on the db website, only the pro has the tcs tires whereas regular mason and comp have trailblazer 27tpi. Im guessing what we have are factory only tires that are rated non-tubless and not available for consumer purchase.





s0ckeyeus said:


> Yes, DB told me they were not the same tires as on the Pro. Like Chadz said, these must be a OE tire.


That's pretty lame. If WTB says the Trailblazer is "available only in a TCS tubeless option" and weighs 980g then I'd say that a non-TCS tire that weighs 80-90g more isn't a Trailblazer. That seems like a bait and switch move on DB's part and reflects poorly on WTB too.

If someone tells me they're selling me X I don't feel like I should have to ask "when you say X, do you really mean X?" or compare spec sheets for similar products to determine that when they say X they really mean Y.

On a positive note, I dropped the pressure in my pseudo-Trailblazers from 17psi to 14.5psi and my ability to lean the bike in corners increased a good deal. I'll try dropping a little lower on my next ride and see what happens.

That said, I can't wait to add a 0.4" of width and shed over pound of rotational weight when I upgrade tires.



s0ckeyeus said:


> If the Gorilla Glue doesn't hold, you can always patch the tube on the inside with a standard patch. I've had good luck with that, even with small sidewall tears.


Yeah, I got a patch kit and was going to apply it on top of the Gorilla Glue repair. But I got a little carried away with the GG, and it expands after application, so once it was done I didn't think I had enough exposed rubber for proper vulcanization to occur between patch and tube. If the GG doesn't last, I'll scrape it off and try the patch.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Wow, that's only 2 ounces...hmmm... I am kind of new to tubeless having done it for the first time on my Overdrive Comp. I have to say I like it, being able to run lower tire pressures really helps traction.
> 
> Unfortunately, the Overdrive Comp tires weep sealant. Not uncommon from what I've read.


SORRY SORRY 1/2 cup, not 1/4... I did like 3.5oz on the 3.5in (actually 2.8in) tire.

my apologies


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

So I couldn't resist any longer and bite the bullet on Mason Comp. I just can't see to find anything close in the price range w/ the fork & dropper post.
How difficult is the setup & installation? Last time when I bought the Overdrive Comp, I ended up taking it to LBS even though it's Ready-Ride already. At that time I know nothing about bike though. On this one I'm thinking of trying to install it myself, but if it's a lot more involved (ie install break, adjust dereilleur, etc), I may have to take it to LBS again. 
For you guys that install yourself, do you guys have a torque wrench? I'm just afraid that I over tighten or under tighten the bolts. Is there a good rule of thumb?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> So I couldn't resist any longer and bite the bullet on Mason Comp. I just can't see to find anything close in the price range w/ the fork & dropper post.
> How difficult is the setup & installation? Last time when I bought the Overdrive Comp, I ended up taking it to LBS even though it's Ready-Ride already. At that time I know nothing about bike though. On this one I'm thinking of trying to install it myself, but if it's a lot more involved (ie install break, adjust dereilleur, etc), I may have to take it to LBS again.
> For you guys that install yourself, do you guys have a torque wrench? I'm just afraid that I over tighten or under tighten the bolts. Is there a good rule of thumb?


The bike is mostly put together. The trickier parts like the crankset and fork are already installed. The back brake, derailleurs, and chain are also pre-installed. The brake levers and shifters are attached to the handlebar. Basically all you need to do is remove the packaging, install the handlebar, attach the front brake, and install the front wheel. The dropper post also needs to be installed, but the cable will come attached. You will just need to put in the post and mount the remote.

My derailleurs weren't really adjusted either. The front derailleur wasn't even close, but that's as easy as adjusting the limit screws and getting enough tension on the cable. The rear derailleur needed one limit screw adjusted and a little more tension on the cable, but it was almost useable out of the box.

When you mount your bar, I recommend taking off the grips and moving your brake levers in-board and the shifters toward the grips. This allows you to get the brake levers in the perfect spot for one-finger braking and also opens up some room for your seatpost remote. I was happy to see the shifters don't have indicator windows, which frees up more real estate and allows you to get everything in the right spot.

I definitely say you should give it a go. If you screw it up, you can always take it in. If you already know how to adjust derailleurs, then you should be fine. If you don't, you should learn. I don't have a torque wrench and can't say I've ever used one. None of the components on this bike are carbon fiber, so you should be OK using your judgment as long as you don't go too crazy tightening things. You aren't likely to injure yourself undertightening a brake lever or shifter. Just make sure the stem is good and snug, but you don't have to crank it.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Like s0ckeyeus said, its not too hard to assemble. One thing I did, like most people here, is rerouted the cables. To me, the way its routed is backwards so just reverse it (see shadowgli's post). My wheels also needed some minor truing.

I just installed a reverb dropper. Good pricing from random bike parts. I still have to shorten the cable and do a bleed. Also waiting on 30t chainring and 11-42 cassette.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Both of my brakes were rubbing out of the box as well as the derailers not being adjusted.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

So anyone have any suggestions for a different wheelset? I think I want to get some wider rims and something that's a little lighter if possible. In the road bike world my favorite thing to do was to go buy some Kinlin rims and then get whatever spoke/combo I wanted and would have a wheelset built up. Usually ended up with something that was pretty strong and very light for about $400 - $500. Don't know if you can do stuff like that here or if it is just better to buy something complete out of the box.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks guys for the guidance. The bike will be coming today already. I think I'm definitely going to try installing it myself, and learn a few more things about bike. I can take my time since I have another bike.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> So anyone have any suggestions for a different wheelset? I think I want to get some wider rims and something that's a little lighter if possible. In the road bike world my favorite thing to do was to go buy some Kinlin rims and then get whatever spoke/combo I wanted and would have a wheelset built up. Usually ended up with something that was pretty strong and very light for about $400 - $500. Don't know if you can do stuff like that here or if it is just better to buy something complete out of the box.


I'm considering new wheels but am waiting to get a few trail rides in, and also to see how much $$$ I get for Christmas. I think the stock wheels on the Comp are pretty decent, but they are pretty wide for 2.8" tires and therefore heavier than necessary. I think a 40mm rim would be ideal. Lighter tires would be a good upgrade too.


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

Love my i45/DT Swiss 350 hub combo. Biggest tire I'd recommend is 2.8 on the rear with the wider wheel combo. Pics in post #424.


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## Ltdan12a (Jun 15, 2012)

Reading this thread REALLY makes me want to pull the trigger on one of these!!! I've been waiting for the Salsa Timberjack, but they are on intergalactic backorder. 

Do we have any taller riders here? I'm looking to order the Comp, but they are out of stock on the XL, with no more coming in... 

I'm 6'3", 250 pounds


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## Kayoige (Dec 7, 2016)

Anyone have any 'before' pictures of the cable routing? I hve a Tokul 3 that is similar and wondering if I should do the same.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

I've been commuting to and from work on my new Mason. Had a really nice sunset on the way home so I took advantage of it.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Kayoige said:


> Anyone have any 'before' pictures of the cable routing? I hve a Tokul 3 that is similar and wondering if I should do the same.


No pic but before the right shifter cable stayed on and went down the right side of the top tube. Left cable went down left side.

After people just had cables cross in front of the head tube and go down the opposite side of the top tube.


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## Kayoige (Dec 7, 2016)

Thanks! Would love to see the close-up of the re touted cables interested the top tube. Seems doing it this way would make the cable angle more extreme


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Kayoige said:


> Thanks! Would love to see the close-up of the re touted cables interested the top tube. Seems doing it this way would make the cable angle more extreme


Below is an after pic of my bike. You can see the cables cross in front of the head tube.

It actually makes the cable angle less extreme. Cable doesn't have to make as sharp a turn. This, in theory, can improve shifting.

A few other reasons to consider re-routing: (1) factory setup had cables rubbing on frame/fork and rubbing can mess up paint, (2) I think it looks better, (3) I picked up a pair of x9 shifters on ebay for $33 shipped so I had to mess with cables to install them anyway.

I'd definitely recommend going to the x9 shifters. Shifting is snappier now and it's a very cheap upgrade (and I've listed the replaced x5 shifters on ebay and if they sell it will be even cheaper).


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

tjc4golf said:


> Below is an after pic of my bike. You can see the cables cross in front of the head tube.
> 
> It actually makes the cable angle less extreme. Cable doesn't have to make as sharp a turn. This, in theory, can improve shifting.
> 
> ...


tjc4golf,
Nice job on the cable re-routing! Should have been done like this from the factory.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Tiboy said:


> tjc4golf,
> Nice job on the cable re-routing! Should have been done like this from the factory.


Thanks!



s0ckeyeus said:


> I might upgrade my wheelset if I can find a good deal. Lots of people are complaining about the narrow rim on the Mason Trail, but the 50mm Mason Comp is a bit big, and that adds extra weight. My frame with everything minus wheels weighed 19 lbs. The wheelset with tubes, tires, and rotors weighed like 12-13 lbs. I'm pretty happy with the fork, dropper, and other components on my Comp, but I think I'd prefer a lighter wheel with like a 35mm - 40mm internal rim width.





ravenmore said:


> So anyone have any suggestions for a different wheelset? I think I want to get some wider rims and something that's a little lighter if possible. In the road bike world my favorite thing to do was to go buy some Kinlin rims and then get whatever spoke/combo I wanted and would have a wheelset built up. Usually ended up with something that was pretty strong and very light for about $400 - $500. Don't know if you can do stuff like that here or if it is just better to buy something complete out of the box.





s0ckeyeus said:


> I'm considering new wheels but am waiting to get a few trail rides in, and also to see how much $$$ I get for Christmas. I think the stock wheels on the Comp are pretty decent, but they are pretty wide for 2.8" tires and therefore heavier than necessary. I think a 40mm rim would be ideal. Lighter tires would be a good upgrade too.


I've got the narrow rims. I'm not upgrading. Three reasons: (1) I'm cheap; (2) tires are a much cheaper upgrade; (3) riders win races, not bikes.

Before you upgrade wheelsets, I'd encourage you to try new tires.

I got a Rocket Ron 2.8 w/ Snakeskin in the mail today. It weighs 715g on my scale.

Decided to mount it up front since I like a little more width in front (would probably make a good rear too though).

I took off my front Trailblazer and weighed it after doing my best to clean off all sealant residue and let it dry off. Weighed in at 1055g (which is similar to my rear which I previously weighed at 1065g).

Trailblazer > Ron: a savings of 350g or 0.77 lbs.

Mounted on the narrower Mason rims, the Rocket Ron measured 2.6" wide at the casing. Side knobs protrude a bit from casing and knob to knob measured 2.8".

Just got back from a ride. Rode the Trailblazer in the back at 13 psi. Ron in front began at 14 psi but since I didn't give it time to properly set up tubeless yet it's slowly leaking a bit and I ended at 10 psi.

It felt like a new bike. So much faster. Much more of a difference than I expected.

I don't Strava so this was not scientific. But I did a 15 mile trail system that I'm very familiar with. No problem on my previous XC bike. On the stock DB I definitely felt sluggish and winded. Had to stop for a few breaks. Exhausted when I finished. Today I felt like I was back on my XC bike (with all the benefits of longer travel, slack geometry, cush of wider tires, etc).

I just took a peek at WTB's 27.5" rims (only because WTB popped up first for whatever I searched for in google - I believe other rims will tell a similar story). Going from their cheapest rim at $55 / piece to their most expensive carbon rims at $550 / piece saves you a total of 153 grams.

That works out to $3.24 per gram saved.

I got my Ron used on ebay for $35.50 shipped (new ones go for $67 shipped). I saved 350 grams. That works out to $0.10 / gram saved. Even purchasing the tires new we're only talking $0.20 / gram saved.

And you can save 700g (1.54 lbs) by switching both tires. In contrast, your max weight savings for two rims is ~300 grams.

Tires are also further from the hub than rims making their weight more important (in other words, a gram saved on the tire will have more of an impact than a gram saved on the rim).

Once I get a replacement for the Trailblazer in the back I feel like this thing will fly.

With plus tires' lower pressures and increased contact area with trail you can get away with running a less knobby tire like the Ron.

The only potential problem I foresee is sidewall strength. Hopefully I don't start shredding sidewalls. But that's why I went with the Snakeskin and so far so good.

And, by my math, you'd have to shred a ton of tires before the rims start looking like a smarter performance investment.

I was hoping that this could be my one bike. A bike that offered XC speed on the flats while offering stability on descents. After first few rides I was not super optimistic. Seemed I'd have to make a lot of speed compromises. But after today's ride I'm thinking I made the right call.

And I still have another 350g of rotational weight to shed. This thing is gonna fly!


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Definitely good points. If I were to upgrade it wouldn't be solely for weight savings. I definitely agree that people shouldn't jump the gun and start upgrading everything. You have to spend a decent amount of money to get a noticeable difference.


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## flyinb501 (Feb 12, 2013)

I will probably do the same. I don't see the need to upgrade wheels.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

I am still trying to get my bike ready for it's first ride- been busy of late. I was initially bummed about the "narrow" rims but after a lot of reading, it seems tire choice makes some of the biggest differences and since there is no standard, I will wait it out.

Unfortunately, it looks like we have some significant rain coming in. Hopefully I will be able to do a first ride this weekend if things dry out...


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## vernondozier (Aug 31, 2011)

damn that was a good deal.....


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Got out early this morning and finally got a real test ride in while the trails were frozen. Everything went great. It felt surprisingly similar to my other hardtail, which is a good thing for me. I was glad to have a little of the trail chatter dampened by the tires, but was relieved to not have the dull-ish feel of a full fat tire. All in all, I'm super happy with this bike.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

I noticed a small paint chip on my bike. I don't notice any damage on the box though, so it's probably something that was loose inside (maybe the seatpost). You guys think it's worth getting a replacement w/ DB or maybe have them compensate? Tried to call them up, but I think they're on holiday already as no one picks up the phone. If I want it replaced, then I'll have to wait till next week and I can't wait to start setting it up . It's something that I think I can live with, but it's just annoying.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

that does suck, but i definitely would not bother with that. just not worth the hassle imo. i never dealt with db cs directly ,but i'd imagine it's not the best. i'd just dab it with a sharpie and call it a day


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Looks like the drive side chain stay in the picture. I always wrap the stay with a piece of inner tube and zip ties to prevent the chain from slapping the stay and messing up the paint. This would cover your defect and provide future protection.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

looks like a seat stay to me


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Yes, it's the drive side, but it's the seat stay that gets damaged. I do plan on covering the chain stay w/ something, so I might as well do it for the seat stay as well. Good suggestion! So if DB comes back to offer discount, then great. If not, that's fine too, but I can start setting up today .


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## imbabob (Nov 1, 2005)

It will be just one scratch of probably many after a few rides. Enjoy the bike and don't worry about it.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

joxong said:


> Yes, it's the drive side, but it's the seat stay that gets damaged. I do plan on covering the chain stay w/ something, so I might as well do it for the seat stay as well. Good suggestion! So if DB comes back to offer discount, then great. If not, that's fine too, but I can start setting up today .


Sorry, thought it was the chain stay


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## Jatrma (May 8, 2016)

It does suck that it's scratched but like others have said, it'll get scratched before long anyway. Get some automotive touch up paint and call it good. No one but you will ever know it's there, but I do understand that you will know it's there. 
I got some pretty good scratches on my mason trail when it was about a month old from me not paying attention when packing the truck for a MTB vacation. I went the touch up paint route.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

So the easy part is all done. I put up the front wheel, front brake, dropper post & reorganize the cabling. No test ride yet. Did you guys oil the shock, grease anything or lube anything? I only grease the pedal before installing and planning to lube the chain after setting derailleur. Anything else I should do to oil, grease or lube?

Now the harder part: straighten derailleur hanger, adjust both front & rear derailleur, and adjust brake (both pad are rubbing). Any good video that goes in detail to do the 3 things above? I think I should do it in that order? I hope my wheels are true too, I haven't tested it.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

joxong said:


> So the easy part is all done. I put up the front wheel, front brake, dropper post & reorganize the cabling. No test ride yet. Did you guys oil the shock, grease anything or lube anything? I only grease the pedal before installing and planning to lube the chain after setting derailleur. Anything else I should do to oil, grease or lube?
> 
> Now the harder part: straighten derailleur hanger, adjust both front & rear derailleur, and adjust brake (both pad are rubbing). Any good video that goes in detail to do the 3 things above? I think I should do it in that order? I hope my wheels are true too, I haven't tested it.


I'm no mechanic so take this advice with a grain of salt...

Don't grease the fork! Grease anything that screws on (stem, pedal, thru-axels, etc). Grease the seatpost too.

You can adjust the high and low limit derailleurs settings yourself pretty easy.

My rims came true. If you want to try on own here's a video that shows you how to do it with zip ties. 




I still plan on getting a minor true done by LBS after ~100 miles of riding (I think the stress of a few miles can help revel any imperfections). For this sort of preventative, minor truing I think a proper truing stand is better than zip ties.

Straightening derailleur hangars requires a special tool. Take to LBS.

I have LBS deal with rubbing pads too. I've tried doing this on my own but I get better results and save a lot of time and aggravation by having LBS do it.

A few $$ at LBS can be money well spent.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Definitely don't oil the fork. All the oil it needs is inside the fork. I don't know if I'd assume the hanger is jacked either. Mine wasn't. Also I seriously doubt you'd need to true the rim.

For brakes, you can loosen the bolts, pump the brakes hard a few times then hold the lever down and tighten the screws again. It might take a few tries, but this usually works unless your rotor is bent.


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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

Has anyone installed a internal dropper post on their mason? I dont see where you would secure the cable after it comes out of the hole near thr BB


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ocam said:


> Has anyone installed a internal dropper post on their mason? I dont see where you would secure the cable after it comes out of the hole near thr BB


I think they want you to route it up the down tube. Mine came with plastic guides that are screwed into the two spots on the down tube to do this with.


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## ocam (May 29, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I think they want you to route it up the down tube. Mine came with plastic guides that are screwed into the two spots on the down tube to do this with.


I only got the C-clips. How do those guides look like?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ocam said:


> I only got the C-clips. How do those guides look like?


They look kind of like this:


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## Mchmnd (Dec 26, 2016)

*Mason comp*

I picked up the mason comp, and am going to go for my first real ride today. I'm really stoked about the bike. My first new ride in 11 years. I demoed a 6fattie, and then found the mason before I bought a Fuse.

Fwiw, mine came with the box previously opened and taped back shut. The tools were missing, the pedals and seat post were both loose, a few rubs and scratches on the frame. The front rotor was bent and the brake levers bolts were stripped and mounted British style.

That said, DB CS had new tools to me in 2 days and new pedals (wellgo) and then when I discovered the brakes bolts were stripped (they're m5x16 FYI), I just asked CS for the specs so I could go to Lowe's and the guy said "I've got a set of TRP slate t4's here if you want them" and 4 days later those showed up too. All this transpired through their little chat pop up on the website. Honestly it's one of the better customer service experiences I've had with mail order stuff. And I don't care about scratches and scuffs cause I'm the guy that will drop it out of bed of the truck, crash it in the parking lot, or some other dumb thing.

Now to see if the no tubes works with the trailblazers. I set them up yesterday and they appeared to seal. One of the tires was a pain in the ass to get to seat though.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Finally got mine together and took it for a late night spin. OMG, it feels great! To my surprise, it feels substantially lighter than my Overdrive Comp, even with the heavy Bridger tires (though tubeless).

Cables are still a mess. Question, if I cut the drive cables, will the end caps pop off the old part to re-use? Not sure where I would get those...

Also, seatoost is too short. . Gotta get. 400mm replacement at least asap....


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

So I weighed both of my bikes on my scale and turns out the Mason is only 1/2 pound lighter...but my scale accuracy is .5 increments so I guess it could be a bit lighter than indicated. Either way, I am happy it is not heavier!

Got some 4mm ferrules from Performance on the way home so will be shortening shifter cables momentarily.

Also ordered a 400mm seat post.

Hope to get a real ride this weekend but rain is expected again....


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I hear creaking coming from the bottom bracket. What does that mean?

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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Daholla77 said:


> I hear creaking coming from the bottom bracket. What does that mean?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

I shortened my shifter cables. First photo shows how much I cut off. The smaller length I cut off was from the rear derailleur. I decided to route them the same way as stock with shortened lengths. I think it came out well! I could afford to shorten the hydraulic cables too but I know that's a more involved process and not sure I'll do it any time soon..

I bedded in the brakes and I have to say I'm PLEASED. I have heard some disparaging comments about SRAM brakes. Have Shimano Deore on my Overdrive, I was expecting the worst. To my delight, the brakes feel STRONG and no squeal so far! I even borrowed a buddy's bleed kits for SRAM brakes hearing that they often needed to be bled out of the box but the lever and feel is very good so I think they are fine. I might just bleed them anyway since I have the kit.

After bleeding the brakes, I was really worried that the 400mm seatpost might not be long enough. Can't believe I was going to get a small...and wasn't sure I was wrong at getting a medium since I'm ~5'11". However, standover height is comfortable and I have ~2+ inches of room.

I measured the distance from my overdrive seat rails to the pedals and it came out to 34 1/4". I measured the same length on the Mason and it stands at 32 1/2". Given the 50mm longer post is an extra almost 2", I think I'll have just about 1/4" to spare! WHEW!

Lastly, for anyone curious, I measured 5 7/8" from floor to center of pedal for ground clearance. This was in comparison of 5 3/8 on my Overdrive Comp.

View attachment 1112637

View attachment 1112641
View attachment 1112636


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Anybody end up doing the metallic brake pad swap?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Lovespicyfood said:


> I bedded in the brakes and I have to say I'm PLEASED. I have heard some disparaging comments about SRAM brakes. Have Shimano Deore on my Overdrive, I was expecting the worst. To my delight, the brakes feel STRONG and no squeal so far! I even borrowed a buddy's bleed kits for SRAM brakes hearing that they often needed to be bled out of the box but the lever and feel is very good so I think they are fine. I might just bleed them anyway since I have the kit.


I'm not going to say there haven't been valid gripes with Avid brakes, but I think some of the drama gets overblown online. Everyone used to complain about Juicy brakes (turkey gobble, etc.), but I have run Juicy 5s on my 26" hardtail for about 8 years and haven't had much of a problem, other than a stuck piston and maybe a couple small issues. I'm perfectly comfortable with the DB3s I have.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

sandwich said:


> Anybody end up doing the metallic brake pad swap?


Yes, and it worked pretty well. New brakes are still coming before spring though, so if you have the cash I'd just upgrade if I were you.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Are you in SoCal by any chance? Just wondering. I'm looking forward to try my mason this weekend as well, but rain is definitely coming on Friday 



Lovespicyfood said:


> Hope to get a real ride this weekend but rain is expected again....


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

FourthOf5 said:


> Yes, and it worked pretty well. New brakes are still coming before spring though, so if you have the cash I'd just upgrade if I were you.
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


much appreciated. The cost of new brakes isn't THAT much more than metal pads alone.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

joxong said:


> Are you in SoCal by any chance? Just wondering. I'm looking forward to try my mason this weekend as well, but rain is definitely coming on Friday


Yes, I'm in Ventura County. There's a trail off Moorpark Rd. in Thousand Oaks that sheds rain quite readily from what I've heard from a local mtn. biking club so I may try that... The 2nd storm is supposed to have a higher chance of being more significant though...we'll see...


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

My rear hub is making a noise that scares me a bit. I'm no bike mechanic but it sounds like something is wrong and I'm concerned the hub will meet a premature death.

Link to video:





Note: noise just isn't in this one spot. Hub makes the creaking sound around the full rotation of the hub. I'm just focusing on this little section to isolate the creaking sound from the proper clicking sound the points of engagement make.

DB chat is offline today (I suppose for holidays). When they're back in I will share with them.

In the interim I figured I'd share with y'all to see if you've had similar issues with your Masons and/or thoughts regarding causes / solutions.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

tjc4golf said:


> My rear hub is making a noise that scares me a bit. I'm no bike mechanic but it sounds like something is wrong and I'm concerned the hub will meet a premature death.
> 
> Link to video:
> 
> ...


Amazing how many rear hub issues are showing up. I asked Diamondback online about this and the response was "Novotec has gone through our bike inventory and there should be no more 2016 bikes sent out with issues". I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2017 Mason Pro (killer build at a great price) and hope the Xdrive compatable hub is a better design than the 2016 standard hub.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

I think I finally finish setting up the bike. The hanger was definitely off, I'm glad I bought the hanger alignment tool, I've used it twice already. I had to adjust the brake rotor a bit and also manually adjust the caliper to prevent it from squeaking. The back break is still squeaking faintly, but I'm just going to let it go hoping by it'll disappear after use.

Adjusting the derailleur is the messy bit. I think I still need to adjust the front derailleur a bit as I noticed slight rubbing noise when I'm on highest gear front & back. After adjusting the rear derailleur, I can shift to all gears except when it's biggest in the front & back. I ended up adjusting the L limit screw to fix it. I'm not sure if that's proper or not, but I can shift to all gears now.

A couple pix below. The cabling is still a bit mess, I may have to zip tie a few more things.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Interesting, I'm in Ventura County as well. Is that the trail that starts at the end of Moorpark Rd? (Space Mountain or something) I haven't really venture out before, I've only been exploring the Chesebro area and building stamina there 



Lovespicyfood said:


> Yes, I'm in Ventura County. There's a trail off Moorpark Rd. in Thousand Oaks that sheds rain quite readily from what I've heard from a local mtn. biking club so I may try that... The 2nd storm is supposed to have a higher chance of being more significant though...we'll see...


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Looks good, joxong. The little piece meant to hold the dropper cable didn't work so well for me, so I took one of the cable guides and zip tied it through the bolt in the seat collar. I had to use a thin zip tie and go kind of diagonal with it, but the cable guide is straight and looks like it's meant to be there.

My cable routing is still not ideal, but I might leave it until I replace the cables/housing. I guess I can redo the included stuff, but I'm not super motivated to do that. It's more an aesthetic thing at this point. I have WTB Rangers coming in tomorrow to try out. I bought 2.8s. I thought about 3.0, but I'm not sure about clearance in the back. Anyone have luck with 3.0s on the Comp/Pro rims?


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

tjc4golf said:


> My rear hub is making a noise that scares me a bit. I'm no bike mechanic but it sounds like something is wrong and I'm concerned the hub will meet a premature death.
> 
> Link to video:
> 
> ...


That sucks! Before I ordered my Mason I called into DB and inquired about this issue. The rep said that the defect was fixed and bikes were being shipped with no issues. I hope mine is okay...


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I haven't had hub issues yet should I worry? I have over 108 miles on it.

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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

joxong said:


> Interesting, I'm in Ventura County as well. Is that the trail that starts at the end of Moorpark Rd? (Space Mountain or something) I haven't really venture out before, I've only been exploring the Chesebro area and building stamina there


Yes, that's the one! It's a great ride! I live 5 minutes away from Sycamore Cyn, lots of great trails and you can go from highway 101 all the way to PCH! Instant message me if you want/need any help/info.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

I've never had a bike with thru axles... Saw the warning from DB that came with the bike and it said that you should tighten the thru axles until it takes 100-200N of pressure to close the "quick release." 

Is that correct?

Seems to me as long as the thru axles are screwed in all or most of the way, there should be no issues and the closing pressure of the "quick release" shouldn't matter.

Am I missing something?!


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## modturnip75 (Aug 6, 2016)

tjc4golf said:


> My rear hub is making a noise that scares me a bit. I'm no bike mechanic but it sounds like something is wrong and I'm concerned the hub will meet a premature death.
> 
> Link to video:
> 
> ...


I thought those hub issues were unique to the Mason Trail. Dang...hope they will swap out those hubs for you. Maybe get they will give you the 50mm hubs


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Just finished mine. Added sunrace casette, rf chainring, reverb dropper and spank spoon pedals. Might change the grips. They seem a little thin. Will know after first ride tomorrow. Hopefully my hubs are fine.














]


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

I really like my Mason but I have to admit I hate the color on the wheels lol.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Bbc gr.


Chadz said:


> Just finished mine. Added sunrace casette, rf chainring, reverb dropper and spank spoon pedals. Might change the grips. They seem a little thin. Will know after first ride tomorrow. Hopefully my hubs are fine.
> 
> View attachment 1113062
> 
> ...


What cassette did you move up to 11 or stayed 10

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I bought 2.8s. I thought about 3.0, but I'm not sure about clearance in the back. Anyone have luck with 3.0s on the Comp/Pro rims?


Well, it turns out I answered my own question. I accidentally ordered the 3.0" Rangers, and I'm glad I did. Frame clearance looks fine. The chain gets closer than the chainstays when shifted to the smallest chainring up front and largest cog out back. The tire profile on the 50mm rims (still baffled why DB chose 50mm ID) looks a whole lot better than the 2.8 Trailblazers, and they are 0.5 lbs lighter each tire. Ironically getting the TCS tire to seat was way harder than the wire bead tires that came stock. The bike feels way less sluggish now with the new tread and is noticeably lighter.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Daholla77 said:


> Bbc gr.
> 
> What cassette did you move up to 11 or stayed 10
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


10sp 11-42 $45 on ebay.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Lovespicyfood said:


> That sucks! Before I ordered my Mason I called into DB and inquired about this issue. The rep said that the defect was fixed and bikes were being shipped with no issues. I hope mine is okay...





modturnip75 said:


> I thought those hub issues were unique to the Mason Trail. Dang...hope they will swap out those hubs for you. Maybe get they will give you the 50mm hubs


When I chatted with them yesterday they said "it may be bearings... Will you please email me your information so I can follow up next week. Bearings are usually not a warranty item but I will have our team review the situation next week."

Hopefully they do the right thing.



Daholla77 said:


> I haven't had hub issues yet should I worry? I have over 108 miles on it.


Unfortunately I think only time will tell. In that regard I'm kinda glad my hub went bad quick. I think the sooner it goes bad the more likely it is to get warrantied.



Chadz said:


> Just finished mine. Added sunrace casette, rf chainring, reverb dropper and spank spoon pedals. Might change the grips. They seem a little thin. Will know after first ride tomorrow. Hopefully my hubs are fine.
> 
> View attachment 1113062


Looks good! I may go 1x10 soon too.

I also notice you have the centerline rotors. Masons were spec'd with the G2 and that's how mine came. Did you upgrade them yourself or is that how they came?



ravenmore said:


> I really like my Mason but I have to admit I hate the color on the wheels lol.


Agreed. Looks like the bike a 15 year old would ride. Unfortunately I'm not 15


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Chadz said:


> 10sp 11-42 $45 on ebay.


I am thinking about up grading my cassette just not sure the way to go about it, either go full new cassette or just buy a larger ring, or upgrade to 11 speed.

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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Daholla77 said:


> I am thinking about up grading my cassette just not sure the way to go about it, either go full new cassette or just buy a larger ring, or upgrade to 11 speed.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Dont you have a 30 chainring and 40 casette? A 42 wont make much difference. You would just have to get stronger or change everything 11spd switch to 46 casette and/or 28 chainring, 50 eagle is too much. If its still not enough go 2x10.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Yes 30 front 40 back

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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

tjc4golf said:


> When I chatted with them yesterday they said "it may be bearings... Will you please email me your information so I can follow up next week. Bearings are usually not a warranty item but I will have our team review the situation next week."
> 
> Hopefully they do the right thing.
> 
> ...


It looks like the site was updated. It came with g2 but i talked to cs and asked because the specs originally said centerline and they sent it to me.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Yeah, the dropper post cable is kinda angled instead of straight down, so it made it more difficult. I had to reroute the dropper post cable through the small triangle section just behind seat post (where the seat post & seat stays meet) to make it work.



s0ckeyeus said:


> Looks good, joxong. The little piece meant to hold the dropper cable didn't work so well for me, so I took one of the cable guides and zip tied it through the bolt in the seat collar. I had to use a thin zip tie and go kind of diagonal with it, but the cable guide is straight and looks like it's meant to be there.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks for the offer Lovespicyfood, I may just take you up on it sometimes in the future. If I see someone riding Overdrive Comp or Mason around here I'm gonna assume that would be you. I don't see many people w/ HT around here or even people riding DB bikes.



Lovespicyfood said:


> Yes, that's the one! It's a great ride! I live 5 minutes away from Sycamore Cyn, lots of great trails and you can go from highway 101 all the way to PCH! Instant message me if you want/need any help/info.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

So the Trailblazer tires that come stock are wire bead? Finally got around to pulling them off the rim. Looks like it...

Think I might get some WTB Rangers and go tubeless. Trying to decide if I want to try to put a 3.0 on the rear or go with 2.8.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Yes they are wire bead


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

Ok. So ordered a Mason lastnight. Should see it next week. Hoping it makes it here in one pice. I prefer a 1x set up. So has anybody ran the sunrace 10 speed 11-42 cassette with a 32 tooth narrow wide chain ring? Any issues with the stock derailleur? Also has anybody internally routed a dropper post yet? A dropper will be my first upgrade. Also going to take a chance with putting the stock tires tubeless. Any feed back is appreciated.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

Lots of talk regarding rear hub issues, damage from shipping, bike modifacations, etc. How about a few ride reports from Mason owners? I would really like feedback on this series as I'm planning to order a Mason soon.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Kenny75077 said:


> Also going to take a chance with putting the stock tires tubeless. Any feed back is appreciated.


They should work fine tubeless, at least they did for me. I've never really had trouble running non-tubeless tires as tubeless. The Trailblazers were pretty easy to seat and didn't weep any sealant.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> Think I might get some WTB Rangers and go tubeless. Trying to decide if I want to try to put a 3.0 on the rear or go with 2.8.


Like I posted earlier, 3.0 Rangers have a nice profile on the 50mm rims, but I'm not so sure about the narrower rims. If I had the narrower rims, I'd definitely go 2.8. Nurse Ben on here is selling some barely used 2.8 Rangers (tough casing) for pretty cheap. That might be a good option.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

Tiboy said:


> Lots of talk regarding rear hub issues, damage from shipping, bike modifacations, etc. How about a few ride reports from Mason owners? I would really like feedback on this series as I'm planning to order a Mason soon.


I've loved mine so far, despite the hub issue. I'll be hitting the Duluth trails on Monday for some snow riding. I'll report back with the positives. I put about 100 miles on it this summer and fall, and about 10 so far this winter, 5 on frozen but dry xc singletrack and a 5 mile commute. I'm looking forward to getting on the packed snow singletrack with some serious ascending and descending.

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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

First ride finally with this bike...because of recent rains, rode a trail that was known to survive rains well...not sure on that, it was pretty muddy in a few areas...

I had some trouble getting used to the geometry at first. This ride has a few short and steep climbs, somewhat technical. The first few hills I had a hard time keeping the front tire down. Different position than my last bike. Concentrated on leaning forward while seated and pulling on the bars. That did the trick.

Had some issues out-of-the-box getting the rear derailleur setup but after some tinkering, got it to work well. Bike shifted really well on the trail.

Loved the Reba fork, big step above the air Rekon I have on my other bike. LOVED the thru axles and boost hubs, wheels felt really strong. I had ~17lbs in front/rear tires. I could feel the flex of the sidewalls a bit but wheels felt planted. 

It was interesting to hear and feel the bigger tires on the trail. Definitely slower to get to speed but once at speed, they gave a nice feel.

I had a few creaks from the seatpost and stem. Not too bad. Greased them tonight so hopefully that takes care of the noise. Brakes worked well but I need to try to get the lever closer to the bar as they are too far away for my hands. Hope I can move them in a lot closer as I had moved them in closer already a bit.

Rear brake howled a little bit at times. Not too bad, but if it continues will want to try to fix that.

All in all, it was a decent first 8 mile ride! Making some small adjustments to make the next ride better.

As it stands, the bike feels substantially different than my other hardtail (a normal 27.5). Given this, will probably keep both bikes since they feel so different!


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

Chadz said:


> Just finished mine. Added sunrace casette, rf chainring, reverb dropper and spank spoon pedals. Might change the grips. They seem a little thin. Will know after first ride tomorrow. Hopefully my hubs are fine.
> 
> View attachment 1113062
> 
> ...


How dose it shift with that cassette. I am looking at doing the exact same. Would like to know ahead of time if it works.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Kenny75077 said:


> How dose it shift with that cassette. I am looking at doing the exact same. Would like to know ahead of time if it works.


The sunrace casette works great. I did have to get a longer chain and it has a backpedalling issue on the 42 but it doesnt affect me during climbing.

Ive had 2 rides so far. I got the mason as a backup bike and for tamer trails. My main bike is a commencal meta v4. Im an average climber and just climb to get to the downhills. The mason feels better climbing but im used to slack bikes (meta has 66ha). The traction during climbs is amazing. Jumping and downhills feel stable. The bigger tires really help plowing through roots and rock. The trails her in NJ arent the best condition now so couldnt really test turning. Still need to play with tire psi and fork settings. My arms felt sore after the first ride. The brakes are suprisingly not bad. The biggest difference for me when i switched to full sus is I can ride longer as u dont get as beat up and tired vs a hardtail still holds true. I still prefer my meta though not a fair comparison (full sus, pike, guide brakes). Overall very happy with the bike. A lot of fun and the geo fits me really well.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Didnt see this posted here. Short vid of how capable the mason is


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Switching to tubeless this week - so it sounds like the existing rim tape is compatible? Should I pick up some Stan's just in case?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> Switching to tubeless this week - so it sounds like the existing rim tape is compatible? Should I pick up some Stan's just in case?


The wheels are tubeless ready. All you need to do is add the valves and some sealant.


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

How much sealant are you guys using. Will 4oz per wheel be fine?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Kenny75077 said:


> How much sealant are you guys using. Will 4oz per wheel be fine?


Yeah, that seems to be a good starting point.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> The wheels are tubeless ready. All you need to do is add the valves and some sealant.


Cool - Have some WTB Rangers coming tomorrow so I'll convert when I put 'em on.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

I went to swap my front and rear tires as my tubeless rear got a tear in the sidewall but was otherwise fine. Figured put the tubed front on the damaged tire and use the good front to the back and reapply tubeless. The bead seemed really lose and it is just not holding air. I'm a bit disappointed but I figure I will probably just grab some quality tubeless ready tires soon and get rid of the chongyangs (*sp). Or I'll just run tubed rear as well until spring. I haven't decided yet.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Lovespicyfood,
When did you go to that trail? I'm thinking of going this Saturday, but there's more rain Wed & early Thursday, so I'm hoping it'll be decent by Saturday.
I forgot, did you switch to tubeless already on your Mason? I'm still debating whether I should convert to tubeless now or just wait it out until I'm sick of patching tube.

I haven't been able to take my Mason to the trail, but I was able to ride it around the street for a bit. The geometry definitely feels different, but I feel like the Mason fits me better when I first rode it. The handle bar is wider compared to my Overdrive, but it doesn't feel that way. When I first rode the Overdrive, it felt a bit awkward at first, and it still feel a bit awkward at times.

With my limited skills, I do feel like I can do what I need to the bike easier. When jumping off a curb, I can control whether I want to land back wheel first or both wheel better.



Lovespicyfood said:


> First ride finally with this bike...because of recent rains, rode a trail that was known to survive rains well...not sure on that, it was pretty muddy in a few areas...


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

tjc4golf said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I've got the narrow rims. I'm not upgrading. Three reasons: (1) I'm cheap; (2) tires are a much cheaper upgrade; (3) riders win races, not bikes.
> 
> ...


Yeah but the wheels on the Mason are just fugly. 

You do make plenty of good points and I am also changing out the tires and converting to tubeless.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

joxong said:


> Lovespicyfood,
> When did you go to that trail? I'm thinking of going this Saturday, but there's more rain Wed & early Thursday, so I'm hoping it'll be decent by Saturday.
> I forgot, did you switch to tubeless already on your Mason? I'm still debating whether I should convert to tubeless now or just wait it out until I'm sick of patching tube.
> 
> ...


I did Los Robles/Space Mtn. on Sunday. I think you would be okay this Saturday provided it doesn't rain too much. The trails in Dos Vientos imo shed rain better than Los Robles.

Yes, my bike is tubeless. I bought the 3.0 WTB Bridger Light Tires and used 3.5 oz per tire. Pretty easy but getting the tires on the rim was challenging...they are TIGHT. However, the tires are holding well and do not seep sealant through the sidewalls (unlike the Kenda Honey Badgers on my Overdrive).

Agree with you on the handling of the Mason. It is definitely setup better for downhill and I could see how that would make you more comfortable. On my ride last Monday, I "looped" the bike going up a technical and steep incline. Happened so fast before I could react I was on my butt!  The big tires setup tubeless have a ton of grip...with my other bike, there would have been no way I could have looped it. I'm sure I'll get more used to the geometry as I ride it more...have only put ~15 total miles on the bike to date...


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ravenmore said:


> Yeah but the wheels on the Mason are just fugly.
> 
> You do make plenty of good points and I am also changing out the tires and converting to tubeless.


Agreed, they are kind of KID-LIKE with the BRIGHT GREEN! Wish they were black...


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Agreed, they are kind of KID-LIKE with the BRIGHT GREEN! Wish they were black...


Heh - I even toyed with the idea of hitting them with a can of matte black spray paint. 

Got the new tires yesterday. Was going to ride into work this morning but my knee is swollen like a balloon - I guess from riding more than normal lol.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

ravenmore said:


> Heh - I even toyed with the idea of hitting them with a can of matte black spray paint.
> 
> Got the new tires yesterday. Was going to ride into work this morning but my knee is swollen like a balloon - I guess from riding more than normal lol.


Be careful and perhaps tweak your bike adjustments and clipless pedals adjustments (if using them)! With a new bike I always make minor adjustments after every ride until it fits me well.

When I had a road bike a couple years back, I remember not being able to walk after the first few rides my knees were so messed up! With incremental adjustments, it became a non-issue for me.

If you think about the repetitive motion biking entails, it's easy to see how minor adjustments can have great affect. It was easier to ride long on a road bike which only exacerbated the problem...


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Yeah I think it's a combination of my seat position and me constantly trying to push a monster gear - something I was always guilty of when riding/racing road bikes as well. 
Also I am riding more now that I got a new toy. 

I got a 3.0 Ranger for the front and a 2.8 for the rear. I'm tempted to send the 3.0 back and get another 2.8 - just holding them I can feel a substantial difference in weight. Batteries are dead on my scale but I'll try to weigh them to see what the difference actually is.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> I got a 3.0 Ranger for the front and a 2.8 for the rear. I'm tempted to send the 3.0 back and get another 2.8 - just holding them I can feel a substantial difference in weight. Batteries are dead on my scale but I'll try to weigh them to see what the difference actually is.


What casing? I got the 3.0 light/fast rolling version, and they were pretty close to advertised weight. I bet they are only about 30 grams heavier than the 2.8s.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> What casing? I got the 3.0 light/fast rolling version, and they were pretty close to advertised weight. I bet they are only about 30 grams heavier than the 2.8s.


The 3.0 does have the enduro casing. I didn't notice until after I ordered them.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> The 3.0 does have the enduro casing. I didn't notice until after I ordered them.


Ah. That's probably it. I was surprised how light my tires felt. They roll a lot faster than the Trailblazers too.

The jury is still out on the 3.0 in the rear. In granny gear, I have about 2 mm of clearance between my chain and my tire. From what I've gathered from the fat bike forum, this might not be a big deal. We'll see. Temps are dipping into the teens this weekend, so our soupy trails will be nice and frozen for a 2nd real ride on Saturday. I'll be able to take it on some more technical trails this time. Should feel more at home.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

And actually they sent me a Light/High grip in the 2.8. I ordered the Light/Fast so it looks like both might be going back. 

Lol - Texas here. We usually just put our bikes away if it dips below freezing. We're supposed to hit the mid twenties this week/weekend.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> Lol - Texas here. We usually just put our bikes away if it dips below freezing. We're supposed to hit the mid twenties this week/weekend.


That's a nice problem to have. Yesterday was 60F. Today the high is 35F. Tomorrow we'll have snow. Our temps are crazy in the winter, and our clay soil suffers from freeze thaw all winter long. Our riding window is pretty much early morning and later at night if the trails are frozen, otherwise it's sloppy.


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## RC Av8r (Aug 7, 2016)

Sorry for the long read. I didn't think I was going to go this far into it. Halfway down is my review.

Here's my take on the Mason Comp after 2 rides now. After the 1st ride I was on the fence of if I was going to like this bike. After the 2nd ride I love it!

I have only been riding for the last year now. I've been riding a 2006 Stumpjumper for the last year, 26" tires, 3x9 and 28 lbs. I was lusting over the Salsa Timberjack for a month or two, but it was looking to be impossible to find anytime soon. I was going to wait until March or so to start looking again for it. One day I was just looking around at other plus bikes just to see if I could find something with a similar groupset to the TJ and stumbled upon this thread. I found the Mason Comp on DB's website for a steal at $1220. Close to the same level components, but with a dropper post and a way way better fork for $220 less.... Sold!

When I got the bike and assembled it I was disappointed that it came in at a hefty 31.5 lbs. I knew it was going to be heavier than my last bike because of the tires alone, but was hoping for something closer to 30.

I went tubeless right away. I couldn't get the front tire to seat with a floor pump with the valve core in, no problem with the core removed. I had taken the tire completely off the rim to get a weight, which is why it was so hard to seat both beads. For the rear I only broke one bead off the rim and it seated no problem with a floor pump. I only had a little sealant leak out on the front at the bead, and zero sealant leak on the rear.

Now onto the the 1st ride. I started out all stock except tubeless. 20 psi f/r. I met a buddy who's been riding for years and is much faster than me at the trail and off we went for the maiden voyage. 6 mins in I went OTB at small creek crossing. There was a tight right hand turn, just before the creek which has large stones, 8" across, you are supposed to use to ride across. Not being used to the larger tires and slacker geo the bike didn't turn as quickly as I wanted it to. I missed the stone crossing by about 2", tire dropped into the 8" deep creek and over the bars I went. I was uninjured, but the bike sustained scratches to the rear derailer and the shock (thankfully not the stanchions), and bent my brake lever. No sending it back now! lol I get up, dust myself off, check the bike over and continue on.

After about 15 mins I was spent. I was in the 36 tooth up front the whole ride (except the last 20 mins of our ride), plus trying to keep up with a faster rider, plus no breakfast and I was thirsty before we even started. After about 45 mins my lower back started aching, it also started feeling like someone was taking a ball peen hammer to my taint.

All of these factors added up to the most brutal 1 1/2 hour - 10mi ride I've ever had. I was really concerned that this new bike was going to take forever to get used to, if ever...

So I made a few changes to the bike. 1st thing to change. The seat! Literally everything hurt after that first ride, but the one that hurt the most was the most private. I swapped out the stock seat for my trusty WTB Speed seat from my other bike. This is the most comfortable bike seat I've ever had. This seat also had slightly longer seat rails allowing me to move the seat a little further back.

Next, lower the stem. Who the F cut the steerer tube on my fork, or decided the length to cut it? There were 3 5mm long spacers under the stem, but with the length they cut the tube it is impossible to move the stem down. No matter how you stack the spacers it always resulted with the top of a spacer being level with the steerer tube. Making it impossible for the cap to not touch the steerer tube. The only solution was to go to the LBS and get a 10mm long spacer. And you can only move the stem down either 10 or 15mm. So I started at 10mm drop. This along with moving the seat back a little further back should help with the lower back pain.

On to the bar width. The day after my shoulders were a little sore from the much wider bars. Here in North Texas almost all of our trails have some pretty tight tree gates and with the stock width of these bars I am going to hit a tree, guaranteed! So I'm starting of with cutting 20mm each end. I'm most likely going to have to get rid of some more, but we'll see how this much works first.

I also swapped out the grips with the ones from my old bike. The stock skinny grips were causing my hands to go numb more than normal. For some reason I don't get "arm pump", my hands go numb when gripping the bars too hard for too long. And I swapped out the crappy pedals for my normal set. Flats for life!

Two weeks later, with a bunch of changes made it was time for the 2nd ride. This time it was going to be a less demanding ride. My normal riding partner is my fiance and she is a slower rider than me, so no trying to drop the hammer to keep up with a faster rider. I dropped the tire pressures down to 16f/18r. I forgot my pressure gage on that 1st ride so I couldn't play around with the pressures then. The bike felt so much better with the lower pressures. Mid ride I lowered them to 15f/17r and think I can go a little lower. With those pressures it felt like I could pump off everything on the trail. Tons of fun!

I also spent the whole time in the 22 tooth front ring. Which was much easier on my legs and the climbs, although there were quite a few times where I needed some more top end. Didn't bother to try and switch to the 36 for the few seconds at a time it would have been useful.

The only issue I had on that ride was the tires. IMO, the 2.8 Trailblazers have a lack of side knobs. I had a couple instances of the front almost washing out on some fast sandy bermed turns. It could have just been the corners that day, but I've ridden thru there faster with my 2.3 x 26 without a problem.

As far as aches and pains, on a 2hr 15min - 15mi ride. Zero! Legs were good, cause I wasn't pushing hard to keep up, and was out of that tall 36 gear upfront. Hands only went a little numb once, that's par for the course for me. No shoulder pain. No lower back pain. And most importantly, no power sapping, spirit breaking pain in "the fun zone"!

*Review starts here....*

I'm really looking forward to getting back out on the bike now. The extra level of cushion and traction from the plus size tires is exactly what I was hoping the plus size tires would be. I though about looking for a full squish bike, but all of the trails around here are really just XC trails with little advanced sections thrown in every now and then. I think a FS bike is overkill for the local trails, even though all the "cool kids" around here are all kitted up in their spandex with their clipless shoes on CF FS bikes. I think most of it is a waste. The plus size tires are a great compromise between a XC bike and FS, IMO.

As with most bikes you are probably going to want to get different tires. The lack of side knobs on the trailblazer really limit it's cornering ability. That and the weight, mine weighed in at 1050g, keep these from being really great tires. I'm thinking about getting the Maxxis 3C/EXO/TR Rekon+'s. At 780g each, ditching the tubes (which I already did, 300g/ea or so) and putting these tires on I could drop about 1200g/2.6 lbs of rolling mass from the bike. That will make an amazing difference to the overall ride.

The rims are on the heavier side, even for 50mm wide rims. You could go get lighter rims with better hubs, but your looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $600 for a new set with a minimal reduction in weight. Changing tires and going 1x is a much cheaper way to drop a few pounds from your ride.

The FOX 34 is a freakin dream, at least compared to my 2006 FOX RL90 on the Stumpy. Which did an amazing job on the trails around here, especially for being 10 yrs old. I'll probably add a cartridge to it to get a little more progressive spring rate and play around with the settings a little. I went for 25% sag and 2 clicks less rebound than recommended for pressure.

The dropper has worked flawlessly so far, only two rides in though.... It's a little weird getting use to using it, but it's nice to have. I couldn't really put one on the Stumpy. I wish they went with an internally routed post since the bike is capable of running one, but it was nice it came on this model at such a low price.

The 2x10 system, functionally, works very well. It was easy to get the limits set, first time I've ever done that. I found the video from gmbn to be very helpful getting it dialed in.



 But as far as useful for me, meh. The 10spd GX rear derailer works great. Shifts are quick and crisp, and being able to grab 5 easier gears at one time on the shifter is pretty nice. The 2x up front is the problem. The 36 is too big for my weakling legs and the hills and I was begging for more top end when in the 22. I don't really like messing around with the front derailer while out on the trail, It always messes up my flow when I need it the most. I already have on order a 32 tooth Raceface narrow wide to go 1x. This will give me an almost identical setup to my stumpy that I was use to. Stumpy was 3x9 (22/32/44 x 11-36) always ran it in the 32 upfront on the trails, and going 1x10 on the Mason will be 32 x 11-36. I will go 1x11 very soon with a 11-42 or 46, and upgrade the Mrs's bike with the GX 10spd gear (she's on a crappy acelra 3x8). Using the Cinch system of the Raceface cranks. I'll be able to ditch the spider, 22/36 rings, derailer, cable, and shifter. Weight unknown as of yet, but will update when I get it all done. For those that have the big hills to climb for the sweet descents the 2x10 will probably be a non-issue. But for the mostly flat, smallish climbs and even smaller descents of my local trails the 2x10 doesn't work well.

The Avid DB3 brakes work well. They stop the bike very quickly and have a good amount of modulation. I wasn't happy that the lever for the rear bent on me in the 1st 6 mins on the bike. But lots of things can go bad or get broken when you go over the bars... At least I can order a new lever and replace it. They never howled at me except for when they were wet. But nearing the end of my 2nd ride there were a few times where I was on the brakes a little more and a little longer than wanted to be because the Mrs's was in front of me slowing me down, and they were just starting to howl as they started getting hot. We'll see how they go on the next ride. I bedded them in before going on that 1st ride, I might need to do it again.

For the rest of the cockpit. It's going to all be a personal preference thing. FOR ME. I didn't like the extra wide bars, I will hit a tree with those airplane wings. The grips are too skinny, I'm used to gripping bigger things. Getting the dropper post switch to play nice with the front derailer triggers was tough, very little clearance with the trigger when dropping it low. The choice of 3 5mm thick headset spacers wasn't a great idea. It made it impossible to change the height of the stem and bars. If they used one 5mm and one 10mm it's possible. And that SEAT, I don't think I've ever had that much pain to that area ever...

For the geometry of the bike. I really only have my 2006 Stumpjumper to compare it to. The Mason definatly goes down hill better, but it also has a much better fork and larger volume tires, and felt very stable especially the rougher it got. I think if I had the same size tires on both bikes either way, they would climb very simillar. The only edge the Stumpy had over the Mason is the snappyness in turns. The Mason definitely takes more effort to turn. But alot of that could be the fact that the tires and rims probably weigh twice as much.

Sorry for the long read.

Happy trails!!


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Well holy crap - replaced the batteries in my scale. Now this is with packaging, which is pretty minimal, - the 3.0 tough fast weighed in at 1099 grams. Yeah, think it is going back.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Nice review, RC. Your experience with the bike mirrors mine in some ways. I'm also coming off an older 26", and this bike so far feels like what I've been missing. I like hardtails but didn't always like dealing with the trail chatter. The plus tires take away some of that. I need to get more rides in, but the weather hasn't been cooperating.



RC Av8r said:


> For some reason I don't get "arm pump", my hands go numb when gripping the bars too hard for too long.


As Lee McCormack says, "Light hands, heavy feet." :thumbsup:



RC Av8r said:


> The only issue I had on that ride was the tires. IMO, the 2.8 Trailblazers have a lack of side knobs. I had a couple instances of the front almost washing out on some fast sandy bermed turns. It could have just been the corners that day, but I've ridden thru there faster with my 2.3 x 26 without a problem.


You might consider a 3.0" tire in front. IMO, the profile of the Trailblazer doesn't work well with the 50mm rims. They gripped well for me as long as I didn't lean the bike hard. Once I did, the sidewall would hit the ground and the bike would wash out. I ran the Trailblazers at 15 psi to start, but lowered them on the trail to 14 psi. I guess with the new tires, I'll start at 14.



RC Av8r said:


> The rims are on the heavier side, even for 50mm wide rims. You could go get lighter rims with better hubs, but your looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $600 for a new set with a minimal reduction in weight. Changing tires and going 1x is a much cheaper way to drop a few pounds from your ride.


Did you happen to weigh the wheels without the rotors? I'd be curious to know the weight, if you did. The problem with upgrading the wheels is that these hubs are included on some $500-$600 wheelsets. It doesn't seem worth it to pay that much to get the same hubs. If I were a half-decent wheelbuilder or had the time to learn, I might try a 40mm hub instead. Like you said, tires are a pretty good upgrade right off the bat. I dropped a pound just by changing tires and now have a better tire profile.



RC Av8r said:


> For the rest of the cockpit. It's going to all be a personal preference thing. FOR ME. I didn't like the extra wide bars, I will hit a tree with those airplane wings. The grips are too skinny, I'm used to gripping bigger things. Getting the dropper post switch to play nice with the front derailer triggers was tough, very little clearance with the trigger when dropping it low.


I'm going to hit a tree for sure. Of course, I hit trees on narrower bars too. The bar length seems pretty good for me. I positioned my dropper remote right next to the grips. I put the front shifter a bit further in and the brake lever next to it the furthest in.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Since I can't ride my bike until the weekend, I took a pic for vanity's sake...


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Like the color scheme on the comp much better. No day glow wheels.


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## RC Av8r (Aug 7, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Did you happen to weigh the wheels without the rotors? I'd be curious to know the weight, if you did. The problem with upgrading the wheels is that these hubs are included on some $500-$600 wheelsets. It doesn't seem worth it to pay that much to get the same hubs. If I were a half-decent wheelbuilder or had the time to learn, I might try a 40mm hub instead. Like you said, tires are a pretty good upgrade right off the bat. I dropped a pound just by changing tires and now have a better tire profile.


I did weigh the front wheel without the tire, but I can not find where I put that paper. As soon as I find it I'll report back.



ravenmore said:


> Like the color scheme on the comp much better. No day glow wheels.


I actually hate the forest green on the Comp. I can't find anything but some colored bolts that are close to the same color. And I can't think of any other colors that bike parts come in that would go with the forest green. Maybe red, but it's not Christmas anymore. lol

At least there are a multitude of products out there for the zombie green you have. I'd much rather have that.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

I had an old anodized orange bottle cage laying around that I just threw on there. I kind of like how it goes with the zombie green in a joker'ish kind of way. I might add more orange bits as I go. Was thinking of going 1x10 and might get an anodized chain ring to start.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I only work in black. And sometimes very, very dark gray.

(Or dark green in this case.)


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Normally so do but might get a little crazy with this one since it's already half way there straight from the manufacturer.


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

so my mason came in to day. every thing seemed ok aside from the derailleur hanger being so badly bent the derailleur was sticking out the other side of the wheel. i attempted to bend it back and it snapped. i reached out to customer support and they are sending a new hanger. 
i did set the stock tires up tubless no problem. and got evrything else set up. all i have left to do is switch my brakes so the back brake is on the left and not the right. going to try a trick a guy at a bike shop explained to me and see if i can pull it off without having to blead the brakes.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

3.0 Ranger going back and have 2.8 light/fast coming by Saturday.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ravenmore said:


> Normally so do but might get a little crazy with this one since it's already half way there straight from the manufacturer.


That was a Batman quote from Lego Movie. You'll need some purple if you you're going full-out joker. I am staying Batman-ish on my bike. :thumbsup:



Kenny75077 said:


> so my mason came in to day. every thing seemed ok aside from the derailleur hanger being so badly bent the derailleur was sticking out the other side of the wheel. i attempted to bend it back and it snapped. i reached out to customer support and they are sending a new hanger.
> i did set the stock tires up tubless no problem. and got evrything else set up. all i have left to do is switch my brakes so the back brake is on the left and not the right. going to try a trick a guy at a bike shop explained to me and see if i can pull it off without having to blead the brakes.


Why on the left? Are you switching shifting too?


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

I used to stunt ride on sport bikes. Used to having a back brake on the left and front on the right. I have my Kona set up the same way


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Kenny75077 said:


> I used to stunt ride on sport bikes. Used to having a back brake on the left and front on the right. I have my Kona set up the same way


Figured it Had to be something like that. That would really throw me for a loop. I'm doing bad enough adjusting from a Rapid Rise rear derailleur to standard.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I was super disappointed by my Fox Float this morning in the cold (9F). Then I realized I had turned the damper to the firm setting instead of open. Doh!

The DB3s weren't so great in the cold. The back brake would engage when the lever was almost all the way forward, then on a subsequent pull, the lever would almost go to the bar. I hope it's just a bleed issue. Otherwise, the bike was great, considering the conditions.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

Anyone have a large Mason they can measure the "reach" on? Frustrating that DB doesn't list it on their site...

Thansk!


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I was super disappointed by my Fox Float this morning in the cold (9F). Then I realized I had turned the damper to the firm setting instead of open. Doh!
> 
> The DB3s weren't so great in the cold. The back brake would engage when the lever was almost all the way forward, then on a subsequent pull, the lever would almost go to the bar. I hope it's just a bleed issue. Otherwise, the bike was great, considering the conditions.


That sounds like the same issue guides have in heat.

Almost no bite, and by the time you get any the lever's at the bar. Then you let it go, and the pads don't return all the way!


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

Lovespicyfood said:


> WTB Bridger Light Tire - 27.5 x 3.0 on sale at REI for $29.93. Bought a couple to try though not sure one will fit in the rear...


Rats!!!!


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

spankbomb said:


> Rats!!!!


Still on sale!


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## dlanes (Nov 30, 2016)

I got my mason last month and couldn't help myself to a few upgrades.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Apparently Amazon doesn't know that 27.5 and 29" are two different sizes. They keep sending me 29" tires every time I order 27.5. So I just ordered a Bridger from REI - I'm saving about $25 also.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

I live in an area that tends to benefit from aggressive tread, giving some Maxxis Minions a shot.

Hoping they arrive sooner than later.


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Man the wheel color on the regular Mason is just killing me. I'm seriously about to take some black matte spray paint to them.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

ravenmore said:


> Man the wheel color on the regular Mason is just killing me. I'm seriously about to take some black matte spray paint to them.


I bet you could do a cool theme with some of the new plastidip colors w/ metalizer/gloss etc.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/plasti-dip-colors


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## azbrooks21 (Jan 17, 2017)

looking at throwing some new tires on my trail. Mainly do desert rides, so dirt and rocks. thinking nobby nic up front and rocket ron in the back, just not sure on size. Was thinking 2.8 cause of the smaller rims on the trail or do you think the new 2.6 would be a better fit? currently feel a little slow on the stock china tires...


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

I was really considering the 2.6" before I pulled the trigger on the 2.8", but from the feedback on general 27.5+ threads, it seems the Schwalbe/Maxxis type tires with sidewall protection give significantly more responsive handling than the no-name chinese tires lots of bikes have from the factory. Perhaps try a demo bike at your LBS and see how they handle at your preferred pressure?


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

azbrooks21 said:


> looking at throwing some new tires on my trail. Mainly do desert rides, so dirt and rocks. thinking nobby nic up front and rocket ron in the back, just not sure on size. Was thinking 2.8 cause of the smaller rims on the trail or do you think the new 2.6 would be a better fit? currently feel a little slow on the stock china tires...


I can run down to about 13 psi on a 2.8 Nobby Nic on the stock rim in front before it feels too flexy. I weigh 160ish pounds with gear on.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

azbrooks21 said:


> looking at throwing some new tires on my trail. Mainly do desert rides, so dirt and rocks. thinking nobby nic up front and rocket ron in the back, just not sure on size. Was thinking 2.8 cause of the smaller rims on the trail or do you think the new 2.6 would be a better fit? currently feel a little slow on the stock china tires...


Schwalbe has a guide but only gooes up to 2.4 tires. Stans guide says flow (29mm) is good up to 2.8 tires.https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/
Also, going with 2.6 might lower your bb.


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## azbrooks21 (Jan 17, 2017)

Chadz said:


> Schwalbe has a guide but only gooes up to 2.4 tires. Stans guide says flow (29mm) is good up to 2.8 tires.https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/
> Also, going with 2.6 might lower your bb.


Based of this guide and the standards they use, "we came up with a rough guideline suggesting your rim width should be between 32% to 70% of the tire width", would put a i29mm rim using a tire size between 1.63" - 3.5". But they go to say, "a good starting point is likely using a rim with an inside width of 50-65% of your tire width" which would give a tire size between 1.75" - 2.28". So a 2.6" tire would be @ 44% and a 2.8" tire @ 41%.

Lol, not sure if this has helped me or made it more difficult too choose. I think numbers here show a 2.6" tire is more suited for the rim and i think the max it would drop my BB is .75", putting it at 12.25".

Probably won't be buying tires untill next month so that gives me a few weeks to stew...


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## gottarex (Aug 28, 2009)

Anywhere else I can get a Mason Trail for cheap? Currently looking for a cheap 650+ HT bike.


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## azbrooks21 (Jan 17, 2017)

looks like they are no longer listed on the DB site for sale and looks like it's a newer model as the specs are different. The trail now comes with i38mm rims.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

azbrooks21 said:


> looks like they are no longer listed on the DB site for sale and looks like it's a newer model as the specs are different. The trail now comes with i38mm rims.


ugh, so jealous they finally put the right sized wheels on. guess I'm relegated to just getting new rims and relacing wheels.

Looks like they also changed the crank, chain ring, bottom bracket and rear dropout as well


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Finally converted to tubeless. I did a Ranger Light Fast 2.8 in the rear and got a Bridger 3.0 from REI for the front. I put 20 miles in yesterday and think I'd prefer the Ranger on the front as well, but that was a heck of a deal. Anyway even going with the bigger tire in the front I still dropped a bit under 2 pounds. Feels like a different bike.

One think I have to admit the handlebars are crazy wide. Definitely need to get some shorter bars as well.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

ravenmore said:


> Finally converted to tubeless. I did a Ranger Light Fast 2.8 in the rear and got a Bridger 3.0 from REI for the front. I put 20 miles in yesterday and think I'd prefer the Ranger on the front as well, but that was a heck of a deal. Anyway even going with the bigger tire in the front I still dropped a bit under 2 pounds. Feels like a different bike.
> 
> One think I have to admit the handlebars are crazy wide. Definitely need to get some shorter bars as well.


While bars have been getting wider by about 20cm per year (I made this up, but it feels right) unless you want different sweep or rise, I works just cut your existing bars.

Take 5-10 mm off each side with a hack saw, round out the ends with a file or sand paper and re install grips. Then ride a month and do it again if needed.

Then later if you want new bars you'll have an idea of what to get without going to narrow


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## ravenmore (Apr 12, 2005)

Was wondering about that. Good idea.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Solved my backpedaling issue. It seems u need a spacer to get an ideal chain line when converting to 1x. I installed a 32t oval that has a built in spacer. No more problems when backpedalling from 42.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Well the new Maxxis Minion DHF and DHR II came in, they are SO much more aggressive then the stock "trail" tires. They do run quite a bit smaller than advertised, but I'm not even that upset since the factory 32 wheels have an ID of 27mm and these seem to be paired much better.

Factory tire was about 71mm casing to casing, 73 knob to knob.

The Rear Minion was about 62 casing to casing but 68 knob to knob. I show the caliper gauge from the first tire hovered over the 2nd to show the difference.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

ShadowGLI said:


> Well the new Maxxis Minion DHF and DHR II came in, they are SO much more aggressive then the stock "trail" tires. They do run quite a bit smaller than advertised, but I'm not even that upset since the factory 32 wheels have an ID of 27mm and these seem to be paired much better.
> 
> Factory tire was about 71mm casing to casing, 73 knob to knob.
> 
> ...


Jesus those suckers are chunky. Makes the stock tires look like a sick joke.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I'm still kind of lusting after a new wheelset with a narrower rim than the 50mm I have and a rear hub with better engagement. My old bike had 54 POE so dipping to 15 is a noticeable drop off, even while riding on the trail. I guess I could try selling my stock wheels, but I might just try to get used to what I have and go from there.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Took my Mason out for the first "real" ride today. We've had a ton of rain so it finally was a weekend I could ride. I did ~17 miles.

It felt GREAT! Got some PR's on downhill sections of ride. No PR's going uphill but I'm out of shape so that wasn't a surprise. 

I was really impressed with the brakes. They are a lot stronger than the Deore brakes I have on my other bike. They were quiet this time...they did squeal a bit on the other short rides I've done the past month or so. Hoping that the long downhill on the ride today might have really broken in my pads to prevent squeals down the road...

Also impressed with the through axles. I've never had a bike with through axles and this combined w/ the boost spacing makes the steering and handling seem so much more planted!

I'm planning on riding the "old" bike tomorrow so it will be interesting to compare and contrast the rides...

Either way, super happy w/ this Mason, especially since the PRICE was so low...


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I had to take the 3.0 Ranger off the back of my bike. I was getting some rub on the chainstays when the frame/wheel flexed. I have the Trailblazer on for now, but that tire is such a boat anchor I might have to replace it with a 2.8 Ranger.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

two things: the stock tires on the mason trail are most certainly wire bead. There was some debate several pages back but I finally got around to taking my tires off the rim. The casing is pretty thin, so I don't expect there's a ton of weight to be lost with kevlar beads, but the stock tires do not fold.

That being said, they set up tubeless super easy and I can't complain about that!


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

sandwich said:


> two things: the stock tires on the mason trail are most certainly wire bead. There was some debate several pages back but I finally got around to taking my tires off the rim. The casing is pretty thin, so I don't expect there's a ton of weight to be lost with kevlar beads, but the stock tires do not fold.
> 
> That being said, they set up tubeless super easy and I can't complain about that!


I can attest to the soft sidewalls, I went to the Maxxis Minion DH's after tearing a 1/4" long hole in the side of my rear tire in a rock garden.

all good now though


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

ravenmore said:


> Finally converted to tubeless. I did a Ranger Light Fast 2.8 in the rear and got a Bridger 3.0 from REI for the front. I put 20 miles in yesterday and think I'd prefer the Ranger on the front as well, but that was a heck of a deal. Anyway even going with the bigger tire in the front I still dropped a bit under 2 pounds. Feels like a different bike.


Did you ever put a Ranger up front? I have the same combo as you and the Bridger up front continues to wash out on tight, fast turns either hard pack or loose. I've changed pressures up and down and seems better at 25+ psi.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

spankbomb said:


> Did you ever put a Ranger up front? I have the same combo as you and the Bridger up front continues to wash out on tight, fast turns either hard pack or loose. I've changed pressures up and down and seems better at 25+ psi.


I have a 3.0" Ranger up front. I haven't washed out yet, but trail conditions have either been pretty tacky or completely frozen, other than a little dust and some gravel. I'm in the 13-15 PSI range up front. In similar conditions, I washed out on Trailblazers, which is really the only plus tire I have to compare to. Overall, I've been pretty happy with their performance.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Short vid of riding the Mason @ Lewis Morris Park, NJ.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chadz said:


> Short vid of riding the Mason @ Lewis Morris Park, NJ.
> 
> [video]https://www.facebook.com/justint720/videos/10210552567603315/[/video]


Link doesn't work. Are privacy settings set to public?


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Link doesn't work. Are privacy settings set to public?


Fixed it. Thanks.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chadz said:


> Fixed it. Thanks.


Cool. I'm suffering here. The weather has been awesome, but I shipped my rear wheel off to Novatec last week. I had a little roughness in my rear hub and contacted them about it and asked if the engagement was upgradeable (it isn't). Originally they were going to send a new freehub body, but they didn't have one available and offered to upgrade my hub for free. They even provided a shipping label. I totally didn't expect that kind of service, but I'll take it.

My other mtb needs damper service, and I don't really feel like riding without any rebound. Until then...


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Cool. I'm suffering here. The weather has been awesome, but I shipped my rear wheel off to Novatec last week. I had a little roughness in my rear hub and contacted them about it and asked if the engagement was upgradeable (it isn't). Originally they were going to send a new freehub body, but they didn't have one available and offered to upgrade my hub for free. They even provided a shipping label. I totally didn't expect that kind of service, but I'll take it.
> 
> My other mtb needs damper service, and I don't really feel like riding without any rebound. Until then...


I never looked at my hub before shipping (siezed) but when it came back it SEEMED better. took photos of the inside of the hub. it has a noticibly faster "click" as you roll.









high res

__
https://flic.kr/p/30549117796


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Cool. I'm suffering here. The weather has been awesome, but I shipped my rear wheel off to Novatec last week. I had a little roughness in my rear hub and contacted them about it and asked if the engagement was upgradeable (it isn't). Originally they were going to send a new freehub body, but they didn't have one available and offered to upgrade my hub for free. They even provided a shipping label. I totally didn't expect that kind of service, but I'll take it.
> 
> My other mtb needs damper service, and I don't really feel like riding without any rebound. Until then...


Are you sending your wheel and they will install a better hub? Better how, more durable higher poe?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chadz said:


> Are you sending your wheel and they will install a better hub? Better how, more durable higher poe?


Yeah. They are upgrading to the D712SB-B12. The one that comes stock is the D342SB-SL-B12. The stock hub has an internal spline like traditional Shimano hubs, whereas the D712SB has a pawl system with 27 POE.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ShadowGLI said:


> I never looked at my hub before shipping (siezed) but when it came back it SEEMED better. took photos of the inside of the hub. it has a noticibly faster "click" as you roll.


That looks like it's probably the same hub I'll be getting. DB kind of skimped on the rear hubs for these bikes, but Novatec has been pretty awesome to deal with. In my case, at least, they have gone above and beyond what I would have expected.

My hub didn't seize, but the freehub sounded rough when I spun the rear wheel in the stand. I also had two rides where my rear thru-axle came loose. I don't know if that could be related to the hub or something else.


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## crash_happy (Mar 4, 2015)

Given the actual winter we've been having here in Alaska the Mason has been on vacation in the garage for a few months. It finally warmed up a bit, though, so I've been running it a on some of the winter trails now that I got a set of Bridger 3.0s installed.

Added about 110 Kold Kutter ice screws to each tire for insurance, and it seems to be well worth the effort! Quite impressed with the 3" tires on snow, and the kold kutters on ice. Handles winter admirably - and it remains a very playful bike - just hopping snow drifts and railing icy singletracks instead of dirt.

New hub seems to be holding up fine, as well as the rest of the stock bike.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Interesting on the hubs...I called Diamondback before I ordered my Mason awhile back and the rep claimed they took care of all the stock...hope that is the case with mine. So far no issues.

Love the bike but this wet winter is buzzkill for riding of late...can't believe how much rain we've gotten in southern California!

Of interesting note, I rode the Diamondback '16 Comp Overdrive after having ridden the Mason for the past 30 miles or so... Even though I had put new tires on it and "tuned it up" I was really disappointed in the ride/feel. The Mason feels so much more planted w/ thru axles/boost hubs and fatter tires. I suppose it helps that the Mason is also ~1/2 pound lighter than the Overdrive comp...

Thought was was going to keep both bikes but now leading towards getting rid of the Overdrive Comp...we'll see...going to give it a few more rides before I unload it...


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Interesting on the hubs...I called Diamondback before I ordered my Mason awhile back and the rep claimed they took care of all the stock...hope that is the case with mine. So far no issues.


My guess is you'll be fine. I didn't seem to be having the issue other people have complained about, at least not yet. My hub just sounded like the bearings were rough when the freewheel spun. It might have been fixable, but a hub shouldn't need any sort of service with only 50 hours or so of ride time.

My wheel will finally be back on Monday. Novatec pretty slow getting my wheel to UPS. I would have assumed they'd have daily pick-ups, but I guess not. They generated the label a week ago, but the wheel didn't get to UPS until Monday and didn't ship out until yesterday. I'm dying for a ride. My fork needs service on my other mtb, so it's currently not trail worthy and has been relegated the trainer.

My work also gave me a GoPro as a gift for being here 10 years. That makes waiting for my rear wheel even harder.


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## Kayoige (Dec 7, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> My guess is you'll be fine. I didn't seem to be having the issue other people have complained about, at least not yet. My hub just sounded like the bearings were rough when the freewheel spun. It might have been fixable, but a hub shouldn't need any sort of service with only 50 hours or so of ride time.
> 
> My wheel will finally be back on Monday. Novatec pretty slow getting my wheel to UPS. I would have assumed they'd have daily pick-ups, but I guess not. They generated the label a week ago, but the wheel didn't get to UPS until Monday and didn't ship out until yesterday. I'm dying for a ride. My fork needs service on my other mtb, so it's currently not trail worthy and has been relegated the trainer.
> 
> My work also gave me a GoPro as a gift for being here 10 years. That makes waiting for my rear wheel even harder.


Similar experience here. With less than 10 miles on the rear hub of my Tokul 3 the freehub bearings sounded really rough so I sent my rear wheel into Novatec and it should be there by Friday of this week. How long did it take them to service the wheel?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Kayoige said:


> Similar experience here. With less than 10 miles on the rear hub of my Tokul 3 the freehub bearings sounded really rough so I sent my rear wheel into Novatec and it should be there by Friday of this week. How long did it take them to service the wheel?


Good to hear you got them to move forward with the replacement. My wheel arrived on a Friday. They said they serviced it on Wednesday, but the wheel didn't ship until the following Monday. I don't know if they sent me a tracking number prematurely, or if they just didn't ship right away. Total time will be 3 weeks by the time I receive the wheel, including the 4 days transit time each way.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Does anybody know of mud guards that fit our bikes. Back and front. Thanks D.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Does anybody know of mud guards that fit our bikes. Back and front. Thanks D.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I run a mucky nutz guard up front. Don't have much need for a rear.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Does anybody know of mud guards that fit our bikes. Back and front. Thanks D.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


I also don't run a rear but I installed a Marsh Guard up front, Went on easy and looks great. I don't have a picture handy though as I just installed it recently.

Only authorized US vendor (the Amazon ones are not real from what I read). MarshGuard Plus Fork Fender


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## WerewolfJones (Jul 26, 2016)

I have a smaller mucky nutz fender up front.

Pros:

 is a fender
 fits Raidon 27.5+ fine

Cons:

 says "Mucky Nutz"
 says "Mucky Nutz" in lettering large enough to read

I really need to turn the little bastard inside out.

In other news, I asked Diamondback about bolt-on downtube cable clamps for a dropper post. They said they don't stock them and told me to go buy some nylon cable clamps. I bought these (size 3/16") and they work fine. I'm not sure they'll survive an impact but the downtube should be pretty protected and I now have a supply of a hundred of the things.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Got my wheel back. The new hub feels so much better. No roughness and much better engagement. Of course we had unexpectedly awesome weather most of the time my wheel was out. Now the wheel is here, it decides to rain. Oh well. Maybe I'll get a ride in this weekend. Overall, I was impressed with Novatec's service.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

So while I love riding my bike, my satisfaction with diamondback is dipping. I had the hub replaced last fall, throughout which DB and Novatec customer service was very responsive, but it still took multiple weeks to get my bike back in order, effectively squashing the remainder of the riding season. I did manage to get one short ride in before the snow flew, and I got a single snow ride in this winter. I also got a single sub-10 mile ride in this spring. Total on the new hub is <20 miles. I brought my bike into my neighborhood bike shop Monday to go over a few things with them (Great guys who are a Diamondback dealer). The plan was to convert the bike to tubeless and talk through some weight saving changes I could make. However, as soon as it was on the stand, the mechanic said he could feel some weird vibrations when the wheel spun. He wanted to dig deeper, so I left it there. They took it apart today and gave me a call. The new hub is failing already ("the bearings are crunchy"), the bottom bracket threads were not well cut, and there was "a whole bunch of metal in the BB." They took pictures that I'm waiting to see. They're dealing with Novatec this time, so hopefully it'll happen a little faster this time. 

If the trails were open up here in the North yet, I'd be more upset than I am, but it is still disappointing. 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Kayoige (Dec 7, 2016)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> So while I love riding my bike, my satisfaction with diamondback is dipping. I had the hub replaced last fall, throughout which DB and Novatec customer service was very responsive, but it still took multiple weeks to get my bike back in order, effectively squashing the remainder of the riding season. I did manage to get one short ride in before the snow flew, and I got a single snow ride in this winter. I also got a single sub-10 mile ride in this spring. Total on the new hub is <20 miles. I brought my bike into my neighborhood bike shop Monday to go over a few things with them (Great guys who are a Diamondback dealer). The plan was to convert the bike to tubeless and talk through some weight saving changes I could make. However, as soon as it was on the stand, the mechanic said he could feel some weird vibrations when the wheel spun. He wanted to dig deeper, so I left it there. They took it apart today and gave me a call. The new hub is failing already ("the bearings are crunchy"), the bottom bracket threads were not well cut, and there was "a whole bunch of metal in the BB." They took pictures that I'm waiting to see. They're dealing with Novatec this time, so hopefully it'll happen a little faster this time.
> 
> If the trails were open up here in the North yet, I'd be more upset than I am, but it is still disappointing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


Please share your pictures when you get them. I have a Raleigh Tokul 3 and just sent in my rear wheel because of hub noise after less than 10 miles.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I'll definitely post the pictures when I get them.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> So while I love riding my bike, my satisfaction with diamondback is dipping. I had the hub replaced last fall, throughout which DB and Novatec customer service was very responsive, but it still took multiple weeks to get my bike back in order, effectively squashing the remainder of the riding season. I did manage to get one short ride in before the snow flew, and I got a single snow ride in this winter. I also got a single sub-10 mile ride in this spring. Total on the new hub is <20 miles. I brought my bike into my neighborhood bike shop Monday to go over a few things with them (Great guys who are a Diamondback dealer). The plan was to convert the bike to tubeless and talk through some weight saving changes I could make. However, as soon as it was on the stand, the mechanic said he could feel some weird vibrations when the wheel spun. He wanted to dig deeper, so I left it there. They took it apart today and gave me a call. The new hub is failing already ("the bearings are crunchy"), the bottom bracket threads were not well cut, and there was "a whole bunch of metal in the BB." They took pictures that I'm waiting to see. They're dealing with Novatec this time, so hopefully it'll happen a little faster this time.
> 
> If the trails were open up here in the North yet, I'd be more upset than I am, but it is still disappointing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


That sucks. Any idea what hub you ended up with after the first replacement? If my hub fails, I'm going with a totally different wheelset. Maybe prices will be down a bit by then. With any luck though, the D712SB I just got will last a while.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> That sucks. Any idea what hub you ended up with after the first replacement? If my hub fails, I'm going with a totally different wheelset. Maybe prices will be down a bit by then. With any luck though, the D712SB I just got will last a while.


So, I just spoke to the mechanic. He spoke to Diamondback, and it turns out that a new hub was not actually put on the bike. They replaced the axle, and one of the bearings. Now the freehub is failing, and they are replacing that now. I was told that they were replacing the entire hub, so that is a bit disappointing as well. My guy Rich (owner of the LBS) made sure to point out that issues like this are reasons why buying direct from Diamondback is cheaper. I'll keep you guys updated on how it turns out with the LBS. I'm super happy to have them in the neighborhood (5 blocks from home), and am glad I finally decided to have them go through the whole bike, like I should've right away upon arrival. I'm a mechanically apt dude and I prefer to do the work myself, but this is a situation I'm glad a trusted pro is doing.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Jerome_Bergquist said:


> So, I just spoke to the mechanic. He spoke to Diamondback, and it turns out that a new hub was not actually put on the bike. They replaced the axle, and one of the bearings. Now the freehub is failing, and they are replacing that now. I was told that they were replacing the entire hub, so that is a bit disappointing as well. My guy Rich (owner of the LBS) made sure to point out that issues like this are reasons why buying direct from Diamondback is cheaper. I'll keep you guys updated on how it turns out with the LBS. I'm super happy to have them in the neighborhood (5 blocks from home), and am glad I finally decided to have them go through the whole bike, like I should've right away upon arrival. I'm a mechanically apt dude and I prefer to do the work myself, but this is a situation I'm glad a trusted pro is doing.


The hubs Novatec has been replacing these with seem pretty decent. It's too bad they didn't replace your hub to begin with. Sorry about your luck with the other stuff, but hopefully you won't have any more problems once things get sorted out.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I'm confident it'll be solid once everything thing is sorted. Goes to show that I should've taken the bike completely apart when I first got it. I was too anxious to get it on the trail though. 

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I got my new hub out on the trail this weekend. I was pretty impressed with it. Here's a short video of my ride:


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I got my new hub out on the trail this weekend. I was pretty impressed with it. Here's a short video of my ride:


Those are some good looking trails... thanks for the share. it always kills me how "not aggressive" gopros make trails seem... but once you know the scale you can appreciate what people record.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ShadowGLI said:


> Those are some good looking trails... thanks for the share. it always kills me how "not aggressive" gopros make trails seem... but once you know the scale you can appreciate what people record.


Ha! Yeah. My wife made me cut out some "boring" parts. They certainly don't feel boring when riding them, but I guess they don't translate well to the camera.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

So as much as I've been okay w/ the factory pedals. I'm thinking of doing a mild upgrade. I think I've narrowed it down the Race Face Chester Composite Flats or Nukeproof Neutron EVO (Electron EVO) Flats.

Bike as it sits now:










pedals are below. 
A) Which Pedal (does anyone have experience with either)
B) What color? (eventually I plan to get some wider rims (if I do raceface those will be black/grey) and Chainring (questioning red or black on that).














I'm torn because I'd do red/yellow/purple and could tweak future mods accordingly. (bars etc). I feel like its becoming too grey/blue already, worry blue pedals will not be as exciting. maybe they would pop better once the rims are on.

I'm mostly concerned w/ getting a reliable/durable pedal without blowing a ton of money (otherwise I'd just get CrankBros Stamp Pedals in red)


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

I have HT plastic pedals (diety compounds) and have had really good luck with them.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

sandwich said:


> I have HT plastic pedals (diety compounds) and have had really good luck with them.


I had seen the Deity Compound v2's when I was looking, saw a few people say they wish it had a little bit more grip (being 6 vs 7-8 and the inner plastic pins were a bit easy to bust off. Are you finding they are holding up pretty well? are you in an area you find pedal strikes occur with any regularity? I tend to ride a lot of trails with large rocks, trees and property walls (Northeast, state forests etc).


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

ShadowGLI said:


> So as much as I've been okay w/ the factory pedals. I'm thinking of doing a mild upgrade. I think I've narrowed it down the Race Face Chester Composite Flats or Nukeproof Neutron EVO (Electron EVO) Flats.
> 
> Bike as it sits now:
> 
> ...


I have yellow Chesters on mine and it looks pretty good. With the addition of yellow ESI chunky grips and the yellow maxxis lettering I think it'll really pop.

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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

ShadowGLI said:


> I had seen the Deity Compound v2's when I was looking, saw a few people say they wish it had a little bit more grip (being 6 vs 7-8 and the inner plastic pins were a bit easy to bust off. Are you finding they are holding up pretty well? are you in an area you find pedal strikes occur with any regularity? I tend to ride a lot of trails with large rocks, trees and property walls (Northeast, state forests etc).


I keep them on my DH bike, and ride exclusively in the northeast. I can't tell you exactly how they'll fair in the super rocky trails out here, but they've been on my DH bike for like 6 years. I don't get a ton of days, but they have held up extremely well, better than some atomics I had back in the day. They still spin smooth and are only missing an endcap. I have a friend who is a hack and his pair is also holding up well, as far as I know. I ride them with 5.10 impacts and have ZERO problems with grip.

I ride clipless on trail because that's the era I grew up in, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend these pedals over and over again. Plus, they come in colors which you can use to get matchy matchy with.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am really thinking about getting the chesters or the black magic by funn mtb

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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

So I can get the Pro version brand new from factory with free shipping for 1700. Is this bike worth it or should I wait for more info on the SC Chameleon


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

sml-2727 said:


> So I can get the Pro version brand new from factory with free shipping for 1700. Is this bike worth it or should I wait for more info on the SC Chameleon


For the price the Mason is better spec'd. The frame construction on the SC is pretty boss though. If I was dropping approx. 2 grand I'd probably get the Chameleon, but it's a close thing and it comes down to personal preference with frame design.

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Man. I was having unpredictable performance from the front derailleur on my Mason Comp. The derailleur is fine, but it turns out the mount is broken. The one side of the channel on the mount is bent out, meaning I get play backwards. I guess I can always go 1x, but I'll see what DB has to say. 2x is kind of nice around here.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Did anyone ever measured their 2016 Mason geometry? I remembered it having 66.5 degree HA, but I asked DB for the full spec and they said there was a mistake. They gave me the full spec and it listed the HA as 68. I'm not sure who's correct here. I have the 2016 Overdrive as well, and its HA is 68, and they ride very differently. 

Oh, I finally converted my Mason comp to tubeless... saved 0.5lb . Total weight of the bike is 32.25lb ....


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

joxong said:


> Did anyone ever measured their 2016 Mason geometry? I remembered it having 66.5 degree HA, but I asked DB for the full spec and they said there was a mistake. They gave me the full spec and it listed the HA as 68. I'm not sure who's correct here. I have the 2016 Overdrive as well, and its HA is 68, and they ride very differently.
> 
> Oh, I finally converted my Mason comp to tubeless... saved 0.5lb . Total weight of the bike is 32.25lb ....


I don't own the bike but you can approximate the headangle given the other geometry numbers of the bike are correct:

headangle = invtan ((stack)/(front center - corrected fork offset - reach))

I'm aware that the raw fork offset isn't measured parallel to the ground but rather orthogonal to the headangle, so use this

corrected fork offset = cos(90 - assumed headangle) × fork offset

for a "corrected fork offset" in above calculation.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Did anyone ever measured their 2016 Mason geometry? I remembered it having 66.5 degree HA, but I asked DB for the full spec and they said there was a mistake. They gave me the full spec and it listed the HA as 68. I'm not sure who's correct here. I have the 2016 Overdrive as well, and its HA is 68, and they ride very differently.
> 
> Oh, I finally converted my Mason comp to tubeless... saved 0.5lb . Total weight of the bike is 32.25lb ....


I remember 68 from when I bought it. I don't believe the geometry changed from 2016 to 2017. The HA on the site now is probably right, although there have been errors on there (like the 55mm BB height listed). The old 29er version was had a HA 66.5, I think. Whatever the case, I'm still loving this bike, even though I killed the FD on this ride: 



.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Geometry is weird and DBR isn't very good about answers. I remember calling once and they told me that reach is the same as effective top tube, and refused to budge when I told them it isn't. I measured the chainstays multiple times, and I come up with 438mm, measured from center of BB to axle center parallel to the center plane of the bike. They list 450mm.

Also, I converted my bike recently to 29er. Rides a lot faster/nimbler without all that weight, but feels like way less of a monster truck. BB height is 12.5", if anybody cares.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks guys for the reply. If the HA is 68 as well, then I wonder what makes the bike feels so different compared to the Overdrive Comp. I need to compare the geometry of the two. The 2 bikes feels very different, I feel a lot more comfortable and confident on the mason.

@s0ckeyeus, yeah I love this bike too. Although I got a pretty major injury caused by this bike. Messed up my knee pretty bad when going a little too fast in the corner. Tore the PCL and grade 2 on MCL .

@sandwich, which 29wheel did you have? I'm toying with buying a FS 29er that can take a plus tire, so I can swap tires between the two.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

sandwich said:


> Geometry is weird and DBR isn't very good about answers. I remember calling once and they told me that reach is the same as effective top tube, and refused to budge when I told them it isn't. I measured the chainstays multiple times, and I come up with 438mm, measured from center of BB to axle center parallel to the center plane of the bike. They list 450mm.


I thought they listed 440mm for the chainstay, which is about what I measured too (not too carefully). They're definitely not 450. Their numbers do kind of suck and seem to change inexplicably.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> @s0ckeyeus, yeah I love this bike too. Although I got a pretty major injury caused by this bike. Messed up my knee pretty bad when going a little too fast in the corner. Tore the PCL and grade 2 on MCL .


Bummer. My worst wreck was in the video I posted. Not too bad, but my backside was sore for a few weeks. I haven't quite gotten used to the lower BB height. I keep getting pedal strikes in the most unexpected places.


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

I checked the ha when i first got the bike with a phone app and it was around 66.5 static (unsagged). I can check again later and take a pic. With 20% sag or 24mm, i think 68* sounds right.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Chadz said:


> I checked the ha when i first got the bike with a phone app and it was around 66.5 static (unsagged). I can check again later and take a pic. With 20% sag or 24mm, i think 68* sounds right.


I did a rough measure with a clinometer app and got about that at the fork legs too. To make sure my measuring technique was a close enough estimate, I measured my old XC hardtail and got around 71 degrees, which is about right for that bike. The head angle on the Mason Comp, with a 130mm travel fork, definitely doesn't appear to be 68 degrees unsagged. The 120mm travel Masons might be more towards the 68 mark.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

joxong said:


> @sandwich, which 29wheel did you have? I'm toying with buying a FS 29er that can take a plus tire, so I can swap tires between the two.


I bought a Sun Ringle Charger comp setup off of pinkbike. Swapped the XD driver for a shimano. I need new axle caps to get the spacing right, but I ended up using a washer which got me close enough to adjust the shifting. With the correct caps, I should be able to swap as needed.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I thought they listed 440mm for the chainstay, which is about what I measured too (not too carefully). They're definitely not 450. Their numbers do kind of suck and seem to change inexplicably.


Diamondback Mason Comp - www.joe-bike.com

https://www.diamondback.com/mason-comp-2512

So the 2016s are gone off the site, but you are correct, the 2017s have 440mm listed, which is close enough to what I measured. I bought the bike for the original listed geometry, which is above in the joe-bike link. That geo is identical to the original mason.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

sandwich said:


> Diamondback Mason Comp - www.joe-bike.com
> 
> https://www.diamondback.com/mason-comp-2512
> 
> So the 2016s are gone off the site, but you are correct, the 2017s have 440mm listed, which is close enough to what I measured. I bought the bike for the original listed geometry, which is above in the joe-bike link. That geo is identical to the original mason.


Yeah, that probably is the original Mason geo. I don't know how many changes they made going to the plus version, but the BB height and chainstay length listed there are definitely not what's on my bike.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I'm only a few pages in so maybe this gets asked/answered somewhere in the thread...but how the heck did you guys end up getting this thing for half price? I have corporate pricing on DiamondBack but that only knocks the price down to around $1000. Probably still a decent deal but $700 is even better and cheap enough that I'd probably take a chance on the bike.


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Nubster said:


> I'm only a few pages in so maybe this gets asked/answered somewhere in the thread...but how the heck did you guys end up getting this thing for half price? I have corporate pricing on DiamondBack but that only knocks the price down to around $1000. Probably still a decent deal but $700 is even better and cheap enough that I'd probably take a chance on the bike.


This was last summer and DB was liquidating their 2016 stock.

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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Ah...dang.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Yeah, that probably is the original Mason geo. I don't know how many changes they made going to the plus version, but the BB height and chainstay length listed there are definitely not what's on my bike.


FWIW I measured the head angle with an iPhone app.

Mason- 66.3* I have a 2.4 ardent on the front and a 2.2 on the rear right now.
My following measures 67.2
My GT Fury 63*

So, it's relatively accurate, and I'm getting a 66.5 measured HA. Not bad.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

So it looks like my rear hub is toast... It makes a TERRIBLE noise when freewheeling...

Should I reach out to Diamondback or Novatec directly?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Lovespicyfood said:


> So it looks like my rear hub is toast... It makes a TERRIBLE noise when freewheeling...
> 
> Should I reach out to Diamondback or Novatec directly?


I skipped DB and went straight to Novatec. I worked out well for me. The hub failing now is probably a blessing in disguise. I'm way happier with the upgraded hub than the one that came stock.


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

anybody have details on the silent recall? i don't have problems with my hub yet, but I am certainly from the group that has had problems. I don't want to miss out due to time.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Anyone else with the Avid DB1 brakes (shipped on the Mason) experiencing excess "play" in levers?

Mine seem to take a very long lever pull to engage. My brakes have been freshly bled and the pads seem to have plenty of life left.

Here's a little video I created showing the issue: 




Any tips on addressing this would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tjc4golf said:


> Anyone else with the Avid DB1 brakes (shipped on the Mason) experiencing excess "play" in levers?
> 
> Mine seem to take a very long lever pull to engage. My brakes have been freshly bled and the pads seem to have plenty of life left.
> 
> ...


I don't really think the first part of the video is a problem. The second part is what I'd be worried about. If you're braking hard, it's conceivable that you'll pull the lever all the way to the bar. The only time I've seen this is when there was a bleeding issue. They wouldn't necessarily be spongy if the problem is not enough fluid in the system to begin with. It probably wouldn't hurt to double check for possible leaks and rebleed. What bleed block did you use?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Did you use old DOT fluid like your other thread implies? If so, I'd rebleed with fresh fluid. DOT 4 is pretty cheap.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

DOT fluid doesn't get spongy over time, it sucks in some humidity but not enough to pose a danger to the rider, that whole old DOT fluid hysteria is just BS


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Steel Calf said:


> DOT fluid doesn't get spongy over time, it sucks in some humidity but not enough to pose a danger to the rider, that whole old DOT fluid hysteria is just BS


No hysteria going on here. The guy's question is about why his brake lever pulls just off the bar. No one said the fluid itself would be spongy (reread my post). Brakes feel spongy when air is in the system, but just because the brakes don't feel spongy doesn't means something else is not wrong with the bleed. I know that if I had just bled my brakes with older DOT fluid and had an issue, I'd go spend $5-6 on new fluid and re-bleed. If you have better advice, post it up.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

The Avid DB1 brakes are still based on the Taperbore design which proved to be soo reliable that Sram eventually had to abandon the Avid brand, so I'd just sell these brakes and cut my losses instead of theorising about bad DOT fluid here.

That being said a fresh bleed could surely solve the spongy lever feel but requires are bit of knowledge and care to be done successfully as DOT is a potential hazard.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Steel Calf said:


> The Avid DB1 brakes are still based on the Taperbore design which proved to be soo reliable that Sram eventually had to abandon the Avid brand, so I'd just sell these brakes and cut my losses instead of theorising about bad DOT fluid here.
> 
> That being said a fresh bleed could surely solve the spongy lever feel but requires are bit of knowledge and care to be done successfully as DOT is a potential hazard.


I don't think being told to trash the brakes is what tjc4golf is asking for though. Taperbore has/had its problems, but I doubt that's what's causing this issue. Bleeding the brakes isn't that hard as long as you follow the instructions.

tjc4golf, you might try posting your video in the braking forum so other people will chime in.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Taperbore is a faulty design by principle, better stay away.

Bleeding the brakes requires a bleed kit and some time to work on it with no guarantee of success with this problematic brake design.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I don't really think the first part of the video is a problem. The second part is what I'd be worried about.


I'm not worried about the first part. Apologies if that wasn't clear. The first part is perfect - brakes engage immediately and the lever has a nice, solid feel.



s0ckeyeus said:


> If you're braking hard, it's conceivable that you'll pull the lever all the way to the bar.


 I haven't been able to get the brakes all the way to the bar. Once they do engage they feel firm and powerful. They just feel like they're lacking control and finesse because it takes a long lever pull just to get to the point where they engage.



s0ckeyeus said:


> The only time I've seen this is when there was a bleeding issue. They wouldn't necessarily be spongy if the problem is not enough fluid in the system to begin with. It probably wouldn't hurt to double check for possible leaks and rebleed. What bleed block did you use?





s0ckeyeus said:


> Did you use old DOT fluid like your other thread implies? If so, I'd rebleed with fresh fluid. DOT 4 is pretty cheap.


I don't profess to be a brake expert so I could be mistaken, but, if it were an issue with the brake fluid or the bleed itself, I think the problem would be evident with the bleed block installed.

Bleeding block - used a bleeding block from an Avid bleed kit.

Brake fluid - yes, I used fluid from the bottle that had been opened once and resealed two years ago. But from the input I got in that other thread you found, it sounds like the only potential problem with this is that some water got absorbed into the fluid reducing its boiling point. This could lead to brake failure under extreme breaking (i.e. when the fluid boils). Even if the fluid absorbed so much water than it became 100% water, the boiling temperature would be 212 degrees. In the video it's a cool day and I'm gently pulling on the lever - not extreme conditions that could get the fluid over 212 degrees.

Air - I could have failed to get all the air out of the system when I bled the brakes but if this were the case I believe the problem would also be evident with the bleed block installed. However with the bleed block installed the lever engages immediately and is very firm. I'd go so far as to say it feels rock hard and solid when pulled. Exactly how I'd like it to feel with pads and rotors replacing the bleed block.



Steel Calf said:


> That being said a fresh bleed could surely solve the spongy lever feel but requires are bit of knowledge and care to be done successfully as DOT is a potential hazard.


The video was shot after the third bleed. I rebled twice in an effort to fix the issue but got the same results each time. Each time I followed the official Avid bleed video on YouTube using an official Avid bleed kit.

If there is no play / sponginess with the bleed block installed, do you think it's possible that air is the issue?

As mentioned above, I'm no brake expert, but my understanding is that if air were in the system, I'd be able to feel it not just with the pads/rotor installed but also with the bleed block. They feel rock hard with the bleed block in.



Steel Calf said:


> The Avid DB1 brakes are still based on the Taperbore design which proved to be soo reliable that Sram eventually had to abandon the Avid brand


Given what I've described above I think I'm starting to run out of troubleshooting options and the brake system may just not be that great.

The only thing I haven't tried which may or may not be a smart idea would be to bleed with the pads / rotors in rather than using the bleed block.

I understand hydros are supposed to auto-adjust for pad wear. But I'm thinking this could be a ghetto way to force a little extra fluid in the system and effectively manually adjust for pad wear.

Good idea? Bad idea?



Steel Calf said:


> The Avid DB1 brakes are still based on the Taperbore design which proved to be soo reliable that Sram eventually had to abandon the Avid brand, so I'd just sell these brakes and cut my losses instead of theorising about bad DOT fluid here.


The thought of throwing these on eBay and picking up some Deore or SLX brakes (no personal experience with either but they seem like amazing budget brakes from what I've read) has definitely crossed my mind.

That said, times are tight and I'm lazy so I'd love to fix these if possible.



s0ckeyeus said:


> tjc4golf, you might try posting your video in the braking forum so other people will chime in.


Yes, I thought about posting it there initially. However as you discovered I recently posted another thread there. And maybe I shouldn't feel weird about it but I felt a little weird about posting there again so soon - kinda felt like I'd be spamming that section. So I wanted to give it a little break before posting there again. But if I can't solve the issue here I'll post there in a day or two.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Reached out to Novatec and they're sending me a replacement...no problems and they seemed to know exactly the issue. Hoping to get the parts by this weekend as we're in the same state...

I've generally been pretty happy with these brakes. I did replace the stock pads w/ some cheap Chinese pads when they got annoyingly loud. Stock pads had grooves in them that I tried to sand out but it didn't work.

Anyone else like these brakes?


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Lovespicyfood said:


> I've generally been pretty happy with these brakes. I did replace the stock pads w/ some cheap Chinese pads when they got annoyingly loud. Stock pads had grooves in them that I tried to sand out but it didn't work.
> 
> Anyone else like these brakes?


You running the DB1s? Do your brakes have a lot of play before they engage?


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

tjc4golf said:


> You running the DB1s? Do your brakes have a lot of play before they engage?


Yep, DB1s. No play at all.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

So after putting on a couple hundred miles on my Mason Trail I finally had enough of the stock tires. I replaced them with Schwalbe Rocket Ron 3.0 which have made a night and day difference. The bike is more agile, less rolling resistance and squirm, and better grip. I am still running the stock blue rims and while they might be a bit on the narrow side for true "plus bike" rims but the new tires make the width far more tolerable. I also picked up the new Suntour Aion 35 which made the handling insanely good. The combination of the new fork and new tires makes the bike suck up virtually every bump and just absolutely rips. The stock Raidon fork shares stanchions with the Epixon TR which is offered in 140mm travel. That is why the Raidon has such long stanchions and does not use all of the stanchion when bottomed out. The axle to crown height is still 1/2in higher on the Raidon than on my new 130 mm Aion. My head tube angle is slightly steeper with the new fork but not noticeably different.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

So now that Novatec is sending me a replacement hub I'm thinking I might as well replace the rims with width more appropriate for the plus tires. Can anyone recommend some rims that don't break the bank and can be purchased online? 

Seems there's still quite some debate on the best width but certainly something wider than the stock 32mm is in order...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

efinses said:


> I also picked up the new Suntour Aion 35 which made the handling insanely good.


I'm debating right now if upgrading from a 120mm Suntour Raidon 27.5+ to a 130mm Suntour Aion 27.5+ is worth it. Please elaborate how the two forks compare, I'll call Suntour HQ on Monday and ask them about the axle two crown measurements of both forks as there's no documentation available online but your comment about the Raidon being taller with less travel was very interesting - did you release the air and test if the fork arch hits the tire at full compression?

Apart from the better damping and thicker stanchions the Aion has another big advantage over the Raidon: Travel can be increased in 10mm increments from 130 to 160mm by using internal spacers, more travel means a slacker headangle and a slightly raised bottom bracket - the later very important for people who intend to run slightly smaller 2.6 tires without running into clearance issues (pedal strikes)


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

efinses said:


> I also picked up the new Suntour Aion 35
> 
> The axle to crown height is still 1/2in higher on the Raidon than on my new 130 mm Aion.


are you sure? How did you obtain these measurements?

According to official spec,
the 120mm Raidon 650b+ got 530mm Axle-to-crown, the 130mm Aion 650b+ got 535.5mm


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> I'm debating right now if upgrading from a 120mm Suntour Raidon 27.5+ to a 130mm Suntour Aion 27.5+ is worth it. Please elaborate how the two forks compare, I'll call Suntour HQ on Monday and ask them about the axle two crown measurements of both forks as there's no documentation available online but your comment about the Raidon being taller with less travel was very interesting - did you release the air and test if the fork arch hits the tire at full compression?
> 
> Apart from the better damping and thicker stanchions the Aion has another big advantage over the Raidon: Travel can be increased in 10mm increments from 130 to 160mm by using internal spacers, more travel means a slacker headangle and a slightly raised bottom bracket - the later very important for people who intend to run slightly smaller 2.6 tires without running into clearance issues (pedal strikes)





Steel Calf said:


> are you sure? How did you obtain these measurements?
> 
> According to official spec,
> the 120mm Raidon 650b+ got 530mm Axle-to-crown, the 130mm Aion 650b+ got 535.5mm


I simply measured from the axle to the top of the crown where the damper/air valve is located. While taking pictures of my measurements I realized I was slightly off with my initial measurements and therefore by saying the Raidon was 1/2" taller was not quite right so that is my bad. Either way it is slightly taller. You can also see the extra stanchion that the Raidon has. The black O ring is where the fork bottoms out, 120mm of travel. The Aion use the full stanchion upon bottoming out.





















The Aion is noticeably stiffer both laterally and torsionally which makes it very responsive. Because of the larger stanchions and beefier fork you will add about 200ish grams to your bike. It is also quite a bit more supple and has better small bump compliance over the raidon. The low speed compression helps dial in the fork much more and helps reduce brake dive which I had a serious issue with on the raidon. The rebound adjustment seems to be more fine tunable.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

efinses said:


> I simply measured from the axle to the top of the crown where the damper/air valve is located


Goddamn it it's called axle to crown, if you don't know how to measure axle to crown and unwilling to lecture yourself on google either then don't state wrong numbers here as facts and even elaborate on them



efinses said:


> My head tube angle is slightly steeper with the new fork


Although I'm thankful about anyone who's sharing his thoughts about new components in a forum I'm starting to consider most of your findings here as kind of a psychological self reassuring strategy to justify your purchase and pretty much useless for people who are looking for an objective comparison.

Based on your previous post I actually called Suntour today and asked them why the Raidon 120mm has 1/2" more a2c than a 130mm Aion and they sure called me BS on that and confirmed the numbers I stated before.

Sorry pal I can see you're trying so hard but people like you are just creating more confusion than enlightenment


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

Steel Calf said:


> Goddamn it it's called axle to crown, if you don't know how to measure axle to crown and unwilling to lecture yourself on google either then don't state wrong numbers here as facts and even elaborate on them
> 
> Although I'm thankful about anyone who's sharing his thoughts about new components in a forum I'm starting to consider most of your findings here as kind of a psychological self reassuring strategy to justify your purchase and pretty much useless for people who are looking for an objective comparison.
> 
> ...


Sorry that I found incorrect measurements, I am sure you have never made any mistakes. Also saying my findings are a "psychological self assurance strategy" based off incorrect measurements is a bit of a bold statement. I am not all that concerned about the a2c length and would not change my purchase based off of it. You completely disregarded me admitting that I incorrectly measured it initially and any comments about how the the fork actually performed while compared to the Raidon and jumped straight to a mistake to feel the need to be a dick. If you are going to make such a fuss about the a2c measurement then you should probably comment about how the stanchion on the Raidon measure to 140mm while the fork only uses 120mm of it.


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## R_Pierce (May 31, 2017)

Alright guys, in your expert opinion is this bike worth spending the extra money on over the Framed Marquette Alloy w/ Suntour Raidon Fork and SRAM X7?

Link to the bike I'm talking about:
Framed Marquette Alloy Bike 27.5x3" - X7 Suntour Raidon Fork 2017


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Got my parts from Novatec and had the LBS install them...couldn't figure out how to get the old freehub off...

Everything is SILKY smooth! Interestingly enough, the old parts seem just fine appearance wise...

Hoping this fix lasts!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Man did I bite it , Riding my bike home from Karate practice. I stood up to pick up some speed and my foot slipped, crotch went into crossbar, feet dragging. Brain told me to grab the break, bad advice from brain because that cause me to grab way to much break and I proceeded to flip over my handle bars(looking liking handy man)and landed on the corner of the handle bar. So if you heard somebody in Suisun Water front yelling "aaaaaahhh Sshhhiiiiiiitttt. It was probably me. Lol. Now I have big ass knot on my left thigh. Lol but I made it home. Bike had some scratches but its expected. #rookiemistakes, #yesyoucangrabtoomuchbreaks, #laughingaboutitmakesmefeelbetter.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So I decided to get these since the grip on the DB ones are starting to fail.









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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Lol, handi man! Well glad ur somewhat ok and you got handi man blue pedals


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

some photos from a few weeks back at Paris Mountain State Park in SC.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Nice

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Pretty aren't they.









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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Okay, I take everything back about the brakes... took the bike down a steep(-17%) but short (.6 mile) run today and the brakes literally FAILED. And they failed early which I guess I am lucky...

I kept pulling harder and they just felt numb and my speed kept increasing. I literally unclipped and Fred Flintstoned a stop as I turned into the hill to slow myself down. 

Never had anything like this happen before. Walked down the hill and they started working again. Good initial bite and strength.

Not sure I can ever trust them again...at least down that hill...


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Okay, I take everything back about the brakes... took the bike down a steep(-17%) but short (.6 mile) run today and the brakes literally FAILED. And they failed early which I guess I am lucky...
> 
> I kept pulling harder and they just felt numb and my speed kept increasing


The Sram DB1 brakes you're running are still based on the Taperbore design which proved to be soo reliable that Sram had to abandon the whole Avid brand name 2 years ago.

The small reservoir with little oil volume in the lever could be the reason for the sudden total loss in braking power although without any further inspection it's unclear what exactly happened


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## Chadz (Nov 7, 2014)

Maybe im lucky, Ive had no issues with my brakes. Ive ridden it on the glen park enduro courses.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Also got this motivational piece for my bike









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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

I saw DB had some good deals, but I am not confident putting a bike together. The Overdrive Comp looks great also for the price but they are almost never on sale. They must sell too well.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

J_Ghost said:


> I saw DB had some good deals, but I am not confident putting a bike together. The Overdrive Comp looks great also for the price but they are almost never on sale. They must sell too well.


You can buy the bike and have a LBS put it together for you, or if you have a local Diamondback authorized dealer see if they will price match (adding the money for their building/tuning it when received).


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

ShadowGLI said:


> You can buy the bike and have a LBS put it together for you, or if you have a local Diamondback authorized dealer see if they will price match (adding the money for their building/tuning it when received).


There is Dick's Sporting Goods around, which has some DB and GT on their site, but they don't price match the website. Also REI which is a ways away.


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## trojan9x (Dec 5, 2005)

J_Ghost said:


> There is Dick's Sporting Goods around, which has some DB and GT on their site, but they don't price match the website. Also REI which is a ways away.


I've yet to find a bike shop that will price match Diambondback's corporate discount prices, including REI.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

Love my Mason Trail! About 6 weeks in. Replaced pedals with blue chesters, added WTB Pure V Race saddle, Ergon grips. Loving all three changes big time. Riding with vans and they stick on my pedals.


Couple quick questions.....I am still building fitness - more than 50% of my rides are at 180bpm or above so I get that...but my quads STAY sore. I'm wondering if my seat is too low...how would I know? They burn early and often on any climbs. I'm off the saddle a lot so I'm thinking of getting a dropper.

Is there one that's recommended and what size would I need? I have some Amazon gift cards to use so hopefully I can find it on there. What's the typical cost for my LBS to install a dropper? My tech skills are limited 

I did have one small issue and DB has been great so far. My shifting was acting weird so I took it in to my LBS and they said the chain was sized too small and I had them replace it. They also said once the new chain was on that the Shimano M615 derailleur that came on it was spec'd for 36T Max and my Sunrace was 11-40 and that this would eventually cause an issue with my derailleur. I called Shimano and they said the same. Called DB and they said they had not ever heard that and that's it been tested over and over no the combo works fine. They even called my LBS and spoke to the head mechanic which was cool. 

In the end they offered to pay for my chain replacement ($40) and are sending me a Shimano 11-36 cassette. Should I use that or someone in another thread recommended a goat link?


Thanks in advance -


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Coyote_Lover said:


> Couple quick questions.....I am still building fitness - more than 50% of my rides are at 180bpm or above so I get that...but my quads STAY sore. I'm wondering if my seat is too low...how would I know? They burn early and often on any climbs. I'm off the saddle a lot so I'm thinking of getting a dropper.
> 
> Is there one that's recommended and what size would I need? I have some Amazon gift cards to use so hopefully I can find it on there. What's the typical cost for my LBS to install a dropper? My tech skills are limited


It's possible the saddle is too low. The old heel on the pedal trick works OK for me. This link says it often results in the saddle being too low, but I like my mtb saddles on the lower side anyway: How to get your bike saddle height right - BikeRadar USA. Check the fore/aft position of the saddle as well.

I don't have any specific recommendations on droppers. My DB Mason Comp came with a 150mm KS Supernatural. I like it so far, but the travel would be too long if I were any shorter. I'd recommend going with a 100mm or 125mm, whatever dropper you choose to go with. Installing a dropper is super easy. It might be worth giving it a try yourself.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

I picked up the bike today from LBS and it had a new chain but the shifting is still a major issue in the lowest gear. Won't stay in the lowest gear at all. I ordered a goat link - will be here Sunday...I really hope that helps!

I'm also looking at a dropper post. I have some Amazon gift cards from work rewards and can spend $300'ish. Not every good dropper is on there.....the Bikeyoke Revive, Brand-X Ascend or 9point8 are not on there. Leaning towards the Crank Bros Highline for just under $300 with 3yr warranty. My stack height is 135mm so I'm assuming the 125mm will work ok? What else could I spend some coin on while I have free money?!?? Riser handlebar maybe? Have about $500 total to spend before wife catches wind and buys $500 worth of Legos for our daughter lol

Help me spend!


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

^I'm really interested in a dropper post too...considering I spent $799 on my Mason, it's a bit hard to fathom spending half of that on a dropper... Anyone uses one of the less expensive options out there?

I was thinking of looking used on **nkbike or other places as it seems some people have to have the latest and greatest...seems 100-125mm is "old school" and 150+ is the new standard. I'm think 125 would be good enough for me.

I have a buddy that has a Reverb but they seem to need rebuilds way too often and the cost he's paid for these is ridiculous imho...


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

I ordered the KS eten 30.9 100mm from Amazon - $149 I think. The 125mm would not fit per my LBS. It'll be here Wednesday


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Okay, I take everything back about the brakes... took the bike down a steep(-17%) but short (.6 mile) run today and the brakes literally FAILED. And they failed early which I guess I am lucky...


I was able to fix my Avid DB1 brakes.

Here's a step by step guide for you and anyone else who might be having trouble with Avid brakes:

(1) Loosen Avid brake lever bolts
(2) Loosen Avid caliper bolts
(3) Remove Avid brakes from bike
(4) Install Shimano Deore (or higher brakes)
(5) Be amazed by ease of Shimano setup, power, modulation
(6) Sell Avid brakes on Ebay

I was able to get Deore 615 front and rear brakes for $90 new. Sold the Avids for $50. Amazing ROI.

Everyone says get Shimano brakes but I didn't realize how amazing they were until I tried (had Hayes Stroker Trail before the DB1). Riding is much more fun now.



Lovespicyfood said:


> ^I'm really interested in a dropper post too...considering I spent $799 on my Mason, it's a bit hard to fathom spending half of that on a dropper... Anyone uses one of the less expensive options out there?
> 
> I was thinking of looking used on **nkbike or other places as it seems some people have to have the latest and greatest...seems 100-125mm is "old school" and 150+ is the new standard. I'm think 125 would be good enough for me.
> 
> I have a buddy that has a Reverb but they seem to need rebuilds way too often and the cost he's paid for these is ridiculous imho...


I agree on the dropper to bike price ratio. I'm running a KS Crux Integra. I paid $77 plus shipping on Ebay. It was easy to install and has worked flawlessly thus far.

It is only 100mm or travel but it has been enough for me. I have never run a dropper before so maybe I would like a 125 or 150 more. But maybe once saddle is out of the way it's out of the way. Doesn't matter if its 10mm or 100mm out of the way it's just out of your way.

A PinkBike review of another KS 100mm travel model stated "We were worried that going from the 125mm drop we're used to would be a problem, but in the end it's not something we noticed out riding."

The Reverb servicing stories scared me away from that model. From what I've read hydraulic droppers seem to be more finicky in general and I'm a low maintenance guy so the simplicity of a mechanical system appealed to me.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

tjc4golf: hahaha...love those directions to fix the DB1 brakes!  I actually was just thinking about what I could get for the DB1 brakes if I sold them to offset the purchase of new brakes... If I didn't have that experience, I would have never considered getting rid of them...and now I've ridden them several times with no issues. I just can't go down such a steep hill... Interestingly enough, I ride Sycamore Cyn in southern CA and there's a fire road that is STEEP going from the mtn. side where I'm on the brakes a lot because there are a lot of people and I've never had an issue there. 

I can get a set of Shimano XTs for ~$200 so I think I'm going to do it for piece of mind...

Regarding dropper posts, did a little research and it's not cheap at ~$300, but the Crank Bros Highline 160mm dropper seems like the cat's meow! I like how it has an internal cartridge and is triggered by a normal cable. The prior 125mm version has a lot of good reviews of being very reliable. And it has a 3 year warranty which is really promising!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Dropper posts are amazing. I have a hard time going back once I use one for a little while. Lowering the center of mass gets me through corners so much faster, and even an extra 2" gives me lots of movement room going down rocky roots.

On the cheap droppers, I've got one of the Tmars $100 off amazon, in a 27.2mm and 31.6mm size. The 31.6mm is much better. After ~50 hours riding the 27.2mm one (and a 240lb rider), it has developed a lot of rotational play. I've taken it apart and cleaned it (which is stupid easy to do), and nothings busted. Just getting play in the plastic slide guides. Repair kit is something like $20, just don't need it yet. When I bomb down a hill, I really don't notice. The 31.6 has been much better, but only has about 20 hours on it.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Lovespicyfood said:


> tjc4golf: hahaha...love those directions to fix the DB1 brakes!  I actually was just thinking about what I could get for the DB1 brakes if I sold them to offset the purchase of new brakes... If I didn't have that experience, I would have never considered getting rid of them...and now I've ridden them several times with no issues. I just can't go down such a steep hill... Interestingly enough, I ride Sycamore Cyn in southern CA and there's a fire road that is STEEP going from the mtn. side where I'm on the brakes a lot because there are a lot of people and I've never had an issue there.
> 
> I can get a set of Shimano XTs for ~$200 so I think I'm going to do it for piece of mind...
> 
> Regarding dropper posts, did a little research and it's not cheap at ~$300, but the Crank Bros Highline 160mm dropper seems like the cat's meow! I like how it has an internal cartridge and is triggered by a normal cable. The prior 125mm version has a lot of good reviews of being very reliable. And it has a 3 year warranty which is really promising!


Highline reviews look promising. And XTs are certainly nice. Couldn't go wrong with either.

I'm budget minded so I'm happy with the ~$300 savings gained with the the KS / Deore combo.

Saving up for a wheelset that's a little wider and a lot less neon green.

For $340 you could get a front and rear WTB Scraper i40 wheelset.

I see you say in an earlier post that you found the DB1 stronger than the Deore brakes on a different bike. I did not find this to be the case. Are you perhaps running smaller rotors on that other bike?


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

tjc4golf said:


> I see you say in an earlier post that you found the DB1 stronger than the Deore brakes on a different bike. I did not find this to be the case. Are you perhaps running smaller rotors on that other bike?


Yep, that's a Diamondback Overdrive Comp and they're 160mm rotors.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Coyote_Lover said:


> I ordered the KS eten 30.9 100mm from Amazon - $149 I think. The 125mm would not fit per my LBS. It'll be here Wednesday


I have the 100mm KS ETen as well, paid $75 from a buddy who upgraded his DB Mission. I will probably upgrade to a 125 at some point as I have the 100mm at the minimum insertion point on my Medium Mason (I also had issues with my original seatpost being too short as well). but there should be NO issue fitting a 125mm in that frame. (med+) photo below


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

Rode with my new eten dropper post and loved it. Also liking the new Cromag bars.

I'm still having some shifting issues at lower gears even with my new goatlink but love the bike when it shifts properly 

I get caught in the wrong gear often and find myself trying to muscle thru it and it just doesn't want to stay in gear 1&2 the rest of the ride. Not sure if it is something I'm doing or what.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

My Mason Trail is back at the LBS. Lowest two gears just not working at all. They don't think the goat link is helping 100%. Decided to just put 36T cassette on that DB sent me. Still a bit at a loss why my Shimano m615 shadow plus that is spec'd for a 36t cassette was put on a 40t cassette as a standard spec and there hasn't been more issues with it anywhere else...how much different will my bike ride with 36t instead of the 11-40T?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Coyote_Lover said:


> My Mason Trail is back at the LBS. Lowest two gears just not working at all. They don't think the goat link is helping 100%. Decided to just put 36T cassette on that DB sent me. Still a bit at a loss why my Shimano m615 shadow plus that is spec'd for a 36t cassette was put on a 40t cassette as a standard spec and there hasn't been more issues with it anywhere else...how much different will my bike ride with 36t instead of the 11-40T?


I'm assuming they already checked the alignment of your derailleur hanger and all that stuff. Sucks to have issues. The good news is 11-36 isn't going to be drastically different, although you might find yourself needing an easier gear on climbs. I run 32 x 11-36 on my Mason Comp, and I like it fine.

If you have trouble getting up the hills, you can always go with a smaller chainring up front. Otherwise, you can upgrade your rear derailleur to one that accepts 42t, which wouldn't be much more expensive than a new narrow-wide ring if you find a deal online.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

I have a buddy that's looking at a mason trail… He is 6'1" barefoot probably closer to 6'2" in shoes… With the XL be the right size for him? I have the large and I'm 6' exactly


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

Coyote_Lover said:


> My Mason Trail is back at the LBS. Lowest two gears just not working at all. They don't think the goat link is helping 100%. Decided to just put 36T cassette on that DB sent me. Still a bit at a loss why my Shimano m615 shadow plus that is spec'd for a 36t cassette was put on a 40t cassette as a standard spec and there hasn't been more issues with it anywhere else...how much different will my bike ride with 36t instead of the 11-40T?


While it's true that rear derailleurs have a total capacity listed in their specs, it does not automatically mean that you absolutely cannot run a cassette with a higher tooth count. Plenty of folks here have been adding either complete cassettes and/or extended range cogs (42t, 46t or higher) to their existing setups without the need to upgrade the rear derailleur.

I have the same setup as yours on the DB Rely Trail (Sunrace 11-40 plus Shimano Deore M615) and also run 10 speed Sunrace 11-42 cassette on my DB Mission 1 with SRAM X7 rear mech. Both setups run flawlessly. The only modification on my Mission was to adjust the B-screw. You should seriously take another look at all of the driveterrain components as there is no reason shifting onto the lowest cogs should be problematic. I know you said you had your LBS work on the bike but it would not hurt to take another look. I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are but wrenching on your own bike can be quite rewarding experience.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Coyote_Lover said:


> I have a buddy that's looking at a mason trail&#8230; He is 6'1" barefoot probably closer to 6'2" in shoes&#8230; With the XL be the right size for him? I have the large and I'm 6' exactly


It depends. I'm 1/2" shorter and the large fits me like a glove, but I feel I'm right on the line as far as L/XL goes in DB sizing. Maybe he should test ride yours. If he goes with the XL, he might want a shorter stem.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

My buddy is looking to get into riding with me. He is looking at MT ($900)and also gets a good deal on the Mason at $795.

Which is the better deal for the money?

Mason specs:


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## FourthOf5 (Apr 11, 2016)

Coyote_Lover said:


> My buddy is looking to get into riding with me. He is looking at MT ($900)and also gets a good deal on the Mason at $795.
> 
> Which is the better deal for the money?
> 
> Mason specs:


If MT means Mason Trail, then the Mason at $795 is hands down a much better deal.

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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

Here is his Corp discount thru his work

Mason Trail $670
Mason $795


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

The black "Mason" comes with 11speed drivetrain / Rock Shox fork and is lighter - better deal.


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## spankbomb (Mar 28, 2012)

So a few weeks ago I broke my left hand during a gravel race and am now looking at converting my Mason into my main gravel ride until I get back to 100% from my injury. 

My first step will be reaching out to Novatec to replace the rear hub on the stock wheel set which is currently sitting in my garage as my back up wheelset. Second Step will be finding a 27.5 or 650b tire that I can use as a gravel tire. Any tire recommendations out there?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Coyote_Lover said:


> Here is his Corp discount thru his work
> 
> Mason Trail $670
> Mason $795


I would get the mason

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

New handle bars









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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

what kind, length, rise?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

fishwrinkle said:


> what kind, length, rise?


They are Easton Haven 35 they are 750 length with 40mm rise

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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

:thumbsup:


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Trying debate if I should get a shorter stem and also what length

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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

*Short top tube?*



Coyote_Lover said:


> Here is his Corp discount thru his work
> 
> Mason Trail $670
> Mason $795


Hmmm,, I got signed up on the corporate website, but all I see in stock is the pro, at least in size medium. Which makes me wonder if work-related discount gets access to a different pool of bikes in stock. Or they just sold out in the last two days.....

Either way when looking at the geometry I was surprised to see the ETT is just 585 on the medium, compared to the fuse that I ride, which is 575 in small (and 609 in medium). Do you riders find the mason feels kind of short for its listed size? Looks like I'd have to jump to a large to get more stretched out.


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

JScoot said:


> Either way when looking at the geometry I was surprised to see the ETT is just 585 on the medium, compared to the fuse that I ride, which is 575 in small (and 609 in medium).


solution: ignore ETT, it's just a number without practical meaning
I could elaborate on that but tired doing so..

stick to reach and stack, they make geometry comparison as objective as possible, unfortunately many people still struggle to understand that


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> solution: ignore ETT, it's just a number without practical meaning
> I could elaborate on that but tired doing so..
> 
> stick to reach and stack, they make geometry comparison as objective as possible, unfortunately many people still struggle to understand that


Fair enough.... anyone have or have a link to the reach and stack numbers for the mason? This info is conspicuously missing from the DB website.....


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## Steel Calf (Feb 5, 2010)

click here:
https://www.diamondback.com/mason-trail-3068#bike_sizes


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## S​​usspect (May 12, 2017)

Steel Calf said:


> click here:
> https://www.diamondback.com/mason-trail-3068#bike_sizes


Thanks. I guess I was looking at 2016 bikes. Now that I compare 2016/2017 it looks like they've made the 2017 a bit more compact (shorter ETT at least, don't have both sets of numbers to compare reach & stack).

I know this thread is has 2016 in the title, but.... anyone here on a 2017?


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> New handle bars
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice!

I have been bouncing back and forth on bars, for some reason I want to do gold lol. how are you liking the 40mm rise? I was torn between 20mm and 40mm. did you lower the stem vs original to offset the rise? I read some reviews that when hitting 40mm it felt great on the descents but made the front wheel squirly on the climbs on a more slack bike like ours.

at the same time, my next mod is some new pedals, was doing raceface chesters but saw some comparisons the the brand new OneUp Composite and the reviews have been glowing.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/comp-pedal

OneUp Composite flat pedal review - Mtbr.com












MTBR.COM said:


> *Pros*
> 
> $48 price for quality design and construction
> Very grippy, without being too sharp
> ...


So they basically say there are no cons... IMHO


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

ShadowGLI said:


> Nice!
> 
> I have been bouncing back and forth on bars, for some reason I want to do gold lol. how are you liking the 40mm rise? I was torn between 20mm and 40mm. did you lower the stem vs original to offset the rise? I read some reviews that when hitting 40mm it felt great on the descents but made the front wheel squirly on the climbs on a more slack bike like ours.
> 
> ...


I haven't done in any serious riding on the new bars yet but today I will and I will let you know.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

After riding on them today my arms are in a better position but I am still going to get a 50 mm stem. Easton havoc 35, 50mm length. Then I think it will be perfect 

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Hey Guys I am thinking about getting a torque wrench for the bike, I was wondering would the Ritchey Torque Key suffice or should I get a more expensive one?


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Daholla77 said:


> Hey Guys I am thinking about getting a torque wrench for the bike, I was wondering would the Ritchey Torque Key suffice or should I get a more expensive one?


I use one on my carbon bikes and we used the same in the shop I worked at. They work great IMO. For anything higher then 5Nm I have an inexpensive Craftsman beam style torque wrench that does the job just fine.


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

Rear Wheel Creak

So I got the replacement hub about a year ago and everything has been just fine. But now my rear wheel has developed a creak when I am not pedaling and have weight over the rear wheel. It is definitely coming from the hub. I disassembled the whole thing, checked the pawls, greased it all and put it back together - still creaking.

The only thing odd that I noticed is that there was some scoring in the middle of the axle (the actual axle, not thru axle). It is like a cut mark about half way along the axle that goes all the way around.

Anyone deal with this? Any ideas?


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

Ok. So I got in my sunrace 11-42 cassette. My derailleur is hitting. It. The one screw is all the way out. Is there a quick "cheap" fix for this. Or so I have to change out my derailleur. I want to ride Sunday and don't have $60 to swap the derailleur right now. I will get pics when I get home.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

What derailleur?


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

I believe it is the x7. It is a 2016 Mason. The one that was set up 2x10


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

The 10spd X7 has a 36T capability so that's probably why you're having issues. Maybe try a longer b-screw which is the cheapest option. But that might not end up working. You'll probably need a new longer chain as well if it even works but expect not so smooth shifting, at least going onto the 42T, if it does end up working at all. I was able to get my Ultegra r/d on my gravel bike to work with a 36T cassette when it has a 32T limit by using a longer B-screw.


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

If my math is right with the 11-42 wouldn't that be a 31 tooth difference. So it should work in theory. I will look in on replacing the b screw with something longer tomorow.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Just to clarify...when you say the r/d is hitting...you mean the upper pulley is hitting the largest cog when you try to shift onto the 42T? Or at least not giving enough gap for the chain? 

Also...what are you running up front?


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

Yes. The upper pull is binding on the 42 tooth cog. I have a wide narrow 32 tooth sprocket.


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## Kenny75077 (Dec 31, 2016)

Here is what I'm dealing with. Think I need to shorten my chain more. Cant get it on the big cog.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So I was doing a bolt check and this happen. So I was wonder what size bolt did you replace them with? All the other one are fine. Would it be a bad idea to go for a ride? Thanks guys.









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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

Kenny75077 said:


> Here is what I'm dealing with. Think I need to shorten my chain more. Cant get it on the big cog.


Before you adjust the chain, try the longer B-screw. See my last post on this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/families-riding-kids/has-anyone-seen-diamondback-splinter-24-wild-989393.html. Different bike but the same rear cassette and similar rear mech. I picked up flat head screw from Home Depot (M4 - 0.7 either 25 or 30mm) and reverse-threaded it. Works like a charm.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

scrapmetal57 said:


> I have diagnosed the howling rear brakes and it turned out to be a loose or broken rotor bolt.
> Replaced front and rear pads
> Bedded in with 10 stops from 15mph to 5mph each brake separately
> Removed rear rotor, noticed one bolt was loose
> ...


Where can you get the extra bolts from, That are tougher?

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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Fastenal, mc master carr, any quality fastener store


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## sandwich (Sep 24, 2005)

Daholla77 said:


> So I was doing a bolt check and this happen. So I was wonder what size bolt did you replace them with? All the other one are fine. Would it be a bad idea to go for a ride? Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


me too. you'll be fine with 5 bolts. ran 5 on my DH bike for years.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I started the process of converting my raidon to a remote lock out. I start by putting together the remote lock out mechanism. Once the remote cartridge comes in I will take pics are do a video if people are interested. The black tubing and the medal caps doesn't come with the kit, I had to get those from my local shop.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> I started the process of converting my raidon to a remote lock out. I start by putting together the remote lock out mechanism. Once the remote cartridge comes in I will take pics are do a video if people are interested. The black tubing and the medal caps doesn't come with the kit, I had to get those from my local shop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk




















































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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

So I managed to rip the sidewall of my rear tire yesterday . The tear is about 1/2", so I guess I need to get a new tire. For those of you that have replaced the OEM tire, which tire did you guys get? I'm thinking of getting the Maxxis Minion DHR 2 with the 120TPi as it's lighter than the 60TPi. I might replace both tires with the same Minion DHR2.
Would you guys recommend the Rekon? I know that tire is designed more for XC.


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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

Ugh 120tpi is more than 60tpi weight wise when looking at dh tires and more threads less rubber on xc, so you're sorta right. Twice the threads and there is another layer of rubber. Basically 2 60tpi sidewalls. 

Idk your trail conditions but i love my aggressor/minion ss combo. I have weird trails where half the time it's sandy and the other is a clay loam that turns very hard in the dry season and slick as snot in the wet. When really wet that combo sucks, but thats a low percentage of trail time.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

I thought I was reading it wrong, but the dhr 2 120 tpi is lighter than the 60: Minion DHR II Plus | Maxxis Tires USA
I dont see aggressor being offered as plus tire?

Im in socal.



fishwrinkle said:


> Ugh 120tpi is more than 60tpi weight wise when looking at dh tires and more threads less rubber on xc, so you're sorta right. Twice the threads and there is another layer of rubber. Basically 2 60tpi sidewalls.
> 
> Idk your trail conditions but i love my aggressor/minion ss combo. I have weird trails where half the time it's sandy and the other is a clay loam that turns very hard in the dry season and slick as snot in the wet. When really wet that combo sucks, but thats a low percentage of trail time.


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

I was riding a short downhill section of my local trail and back tire started rubbing side of frame so I stopped to investigate and rear thru axle was loose. I tried to tighten but it kept spinning. Checked the other side and it looked like the part the thru axle threads into popped out. Is that common?

Had to slowly single speed it back as axle kept popping out when I shifted.

I called DB anf they are sending me a new one but it may take a week. Would a place that carries DB possible have one of these too? Does it just "pop" back in?

Pic of mine and pic of what it's supposed to look like:


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Mine looks totally different than that. This is what mine looks like. It screws into a part that is flanges out on the outside.









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## fishwrinkle (Jul 11, 2012)

joxong said:


> I thought I was reading it wrong, but the dhr 2 120 tpi is lighter than the 60: Minion DHR II Plus | Maxxis Tires USA
> I dont see aggressor being offered as plus tire?
> 
> Im in socal.


disregard my ignorance to what forum i'm in


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

Daholla77 said:


> Mine looks totally different than that. This is what mine looks like. It screws into a part that is flanges out on the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I pulled my original pic from DB stock photo but you're right I found a pic of my bike and zoomed in and mine is the same. Thanks for pointing that out!

I wonder if a place like performance bikes or somewhere that carries DB may carry it. Going a week without riding may make me cranky lol


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

joxong said:


> So I managed to rip the sidewall of my rear tire yesterday . The tear is about 1/2", so I guess I need to get a new tire. For those of you that have replaced the OEM tire, which tire did you guys get? I'm thinking of getting the Maxxis Minion DHR 2 with the 120TPi as it's lighter than the 60TPi. I might replace both tires with the same Minion DHR2.
> Would you guys recommend the Rekon? I know that tire is designed more for XC.


I did the Minion DHF and DHR respectively in the 60TPI as I am ~250lbs and wanted the extra durability and lasting tread of the harder knobs, honestly they are so much stickier than stock and still are in great shape, no lost nubs/wear (I read reviews that the 3 layer tires chewed up much faster)

plus they look good. I did the 2.8" version (narrower than 2.8 by a bit but the responsiveness is excellent)
Stock Mason Trail tires (also ripped a hole in the rear sidewall)









Minion 









Comparison


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks Shadow, after much reading, I think I'm going to go with Rekon 2.8 rear & DHR2 2.8 front.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I was wondering have any you guys tried the oval chain rings on the Mason. Diamondback CS said it won't fit but they also said that the Mason trail can't be made into 1x11 but people have done that. 

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Daholla77 said:


> I was wondering have any you guys tried the oval chain rings on the Mason. Diamondback CS said it won't fit but they also said that the Mason trail can't be made into 1x11 but people have done that.


I have a direct mount 32t Absolute Black oval on my Mason Comp. I can't think of a reason why an oval ring that is properly sized and resulted in a good chainline wouldn't work.

Having run an oval ring for like 4 months, I'm not really sure if the ovality makes that much of a difference. I don't think whatever performance advantage they might have would make me want to pay extra just to go oval or prematurely swap out a perfectly good round ring.


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## chelboed (Jul 29, 2005)

Daholla77 said:


> So I was doing a bolt check and this happen. So I was wonder what size bolt did you replace them with? All the other one are fine. Would it be a bad idea to go for a ride? Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'd take the other 5x out, grab the broken one with some vice grips and take it out. Then go to your LBS and get a new bolt. (they'll likely just give it to you)

If not, email / PM me and I'll mail you one. I've got several.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

chelboed said:


> I'd take the other 5x out, grab the broken one with some vice grips and take it out. Then go to your LBS and get a new bolt. (they'll likely just give it to you)
> 
> If not, email / PM me and I'll mail you one. I've got several.


Thank you I did just that, I plan on ordering some titanium ones so hope they work good.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I have a direct mount 32t Absolute Black oval on my Mason Comp. I can't think of a reason why an oval ring that is properly sized and resulted in a good chainline wouldn't work.
> 
> Having run an oval ring for like 4 months, I'm not really sure if the ovality makes that much of a difference. I don't think whatever performance advantage they might have would make me want to pay extra just to go oval or prematurely swap out a perfectly good round ring.


I notice all the major oval producers, are creating 30t ones so I would think that they would fit. Just trying decide which one is better. Absolute talk about WTC, One Up that they didn't do their research and they are just copying them. So I don't know.

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Daholla77 said:


> I notice all the major oval producers, are creating 30t ones so I would think that they would fit. Just trying decide which one is better. Absolute talk about WTC, One Up that they didn't do their research and they are just copying them. So I don't know.


30t is going to be similar to a 32t at the widest point, which isn't big. I wouldn't think you'd run into any issues. It's hard to know if AB is blowing smoke or not. Again, I didn't notice any earth-shattering improvements. If you want a little more traditional shape, Wolf Tooth would probably be the one to go with. Between OneUp and AB, I'd probably just go with the better price. The AB rings do look awesome though. I went with the AB ring and OneUp chainguide.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Looking to get some new tires for the bike I am looking at Ritchey Comp Z-Max Evo Mountain Tire: 27.5X2.8, and the Vee Tires Trax fatty. I was wondering if anybody has tried these before. Looking for something that has good traction on dirt but good rolling on pavement. Thanks









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Also wondering something else, getting a short stem. A 50mm in length. I am looking at the Easton havoc since I have the easton haven handle bars. Or race Face. What you guys recommend? Thanks

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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

I have been riding a regular mason 2016 and thinking of handle bar upgrade. Saw those Easton handlebars on sale but was doubting on the width. Mine are 760mm and use to ride with 800mm. Do the feel short? I have do ride a lot of rocky stuff and like to look for technical trails. I have a large mason and I am 6ft tall


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Morris759 said:


> I have been riding a regular mason 2016 and thinking of handle bar upgrade. Saw those Easton handlebars on sale but was doubting on the width. Mine are 760mm and use to ride with 800mm. Do the feel short? I have do ride a lot of rocky stuff and like to look for technical trails. I have a large mason and I am 6ft tall


Don't feel short one bit

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## Rycan86 (Aug 2, 2017)

Hello all!

I recently bought a 2017 Mason Pro after lots of research. I couldn't pass up the corporate deal and I absolutely LOVE the bike...

... but dammit all if plus tires, (specifically 2.8 inch wide tires) aren't fragile.

BOTH Nobby Nics that came with the bike have been KIA.

The first one was killed by a dog ear shard of glass that made its way through the tire and made sure the dirt that was already on me was glue with Stans... ya... Not Schwalbes fault... Bought a replacement Nobby Nic because, why not, it felt great to ride and I know nothing about tires.

But the second one was the result of a misjudged bunny hop that caused me to land my rear tire directly on the corner of a curb and causing a puncture at the base of a knob. I was able to patch it and it seems to be holding well, but I consider it enough of a loss to contemplate buying another tire to replace it.

Any other Mason owners have any recommendations? Is it possible to mount a 29er tire on my rims (Diamondback Blanchard 38R, Tubeless Compatible, 32h)?

Edit: Saw the tire recs above and will consider. 29er question still stands :thumbsup:

More pics of my lil Red bike with my lil Red Wagon


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Hi all,
I'm getting the itch to get a new wheelset for my 16 Mason Comp. I know some of you were contemplating of replacing the massive 50mm inner width with something smaller. What did you end up with? I'm considering going to 35mm inner width and considering the Quality Wheels/WTB Asym i35 combo, Sun Ringle Duroc 40, or the Mercury X3. I really don't know how to judge what makes a good wheel. Any thought on the 3 above?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Hi all,
> I'm getting the itch to get a new wheelset for my 16 Mason Comp. I know some of you were contemplating of replacing the massive 50mm inner width with something smaller. What did you end up with? I'm considering going to 35mm inner width and considering the Quality Wheels/WTB Asym i35 combo, Sun Ringle Duroc 40, or the Mercury X3. I really don't know how to judge what makes a good wheel. Any thought on the 3 above?


I ended up keeping my wheels after the warranty rear hub upgrade. I haven't had any real-world issues with the 50mm, even with a 2.8" tire on the rear, at least not enough to warrant spending extra cash. I almost bought the 35W Hope wheelset: https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-hoops-pro-4-wheel-275-88531.html. This is definitely worth considering if going 35mm. I don't have any experience with the Mercury X3, but the rear is the same I received from Novatec. It's definitely a step up from the stock hub, and you can get some good deals on Mercury wheels, especially with Active Junky cash back. I considered the Durocs too. Ultimately, I didn't think spending $400+ on a new wheelset was worth it for me.

Really pay attention to the hubs you're getting, particularly the rear hub. A lot of the Quality brand wheels come with Formula hubs, which aren't always so great. I don't think engagement is a huge issue (15 POE like stock Mason hubs is too low for my taste though). Wheel build definitely matters, but it's hard to know when buying how good a build is. I've heard nothing but positives about the Hope build above. I think for the money, it's hard to beat it (even though it's coming from Britain).


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Rycan86 said:


> Hello all!
> 
> I recently bought a 2017 Mason Pro after lots of research. I couldn't pass up the corporate deal and I absolutely LOVE the bike...
> 
> ...


Schwalbe is pretty much known for this, right? I wouldn't give up on plus so quickly. Run the tires for a while and swap them out when they're no longer reliable. You might want a heavier casing if you keep having troubles, or just move away from the Nobby Nics.

You can't mount 29" tires on a 27.5" rim. You'd need a new wheelset to run 29" tires. Congrats on the bike, by the way. I've been super happy with my '16 Mason Comp.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I ended up keeping my wheels after the warranty rear hub upgrade. I haven't had any real-world issues with the 50mm, even with a 2.8" tire on the rear, at least not enough to warrant spending extra cash. I almost bought the 35W Hope wheelset: https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-hoops-pro-4-wheel-275-88531.html. This is definitely worth considering if going 35mm. I don't have any experience with the Mercury X3, but the rear is the same I received from Novatec. It's definitely a step up from the stock hub, and you can get some good deals on Mercury wheels, especially with Active Junky cash back. I considered the Durocs too. Ultimately, I didn't think spending $400+ on a new wheelset was worth it for me.
> 
> Really pay attention to the hubs you're getting, particularly the rear hub. A lot of the Quality brand wheels come with Formula hubs, which aren't always so great. I don't think engagement is a huge issue (15 POE like stock Mason hubs is too low for my taste though). Wheel build definitely matters, but it's hard to know when buying how good a build is. I've heard nothing but positives about the Hope build above. I think for the money, it's hard to beat it (even though it's coming from Britain).


Thanks s0ckeyeus for your input! So the replacement hub that you get from Novatec is the Mercury rear hub? I actually did look at that hope wheelset last time from Merlin, but not sure why I didn't consider it. Thanks for the Active Junky tip too... 6% from Jenson.. man I'm missing out 

Yeah, my only concern w/ the Quality Wheels is they didn't mentioned the exact Formula hub that comes with it, and I want the flexibility to change the drive from HG to XD down the road if needed. Considering they're almost the same price, I don't see a reason going WTB route.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Thanks s0ckeyeus for your input! So the replacement hub that you get from Novatec is the Mercury rear hub? I actually did look at that hope wheelset last time from Merlin, but not sure why I didn't consider it. Thanks for the Active Junky tip too... 6% from Jenson.. man I'm missing out
> 
> Yeah, my only concern w/ the Quality Wheels is they didn't mentioned the exact Formula hub that comes with it, and I want the flexibility to change the drive from HG to XD down the road if needed. Considering they're almost the same price, I don't see a reason going WTB route.


No, I believe the Mercury is a rebadged Novatec, although I could be wrong. It has 27 POE and looks exactly the same as the hub I have. Not a bad hub. Another option if you have a budget closer to $500 is to get a wheelset built. There are some builders who ship and have reasonable rates. It just depends on what kind of budget you're looking at.

If you haven't signed up for Active Junky, shoot over a PM with your email and I'll send an invite. Or at least get an invite from someone to get the sign up bonus.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Got some goods coming In. An Easton Havoc 50mm stem, CST Patrol tires, Zefal mud deflector, SR Suntour remote lock out cartridge. Getting the front end done then next drivetrain. 

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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Rycan86 said:


> Hello all!
> 
> I recently bought a 2017 Mason Pro after lots of research. I couldn't pass up the corporate deal and I absolutely LOVE the bike...
> Any other Mason owners have any recommendations? Is it possible to mount a 29er tire on my rims (Diamondback Blanchard 38R, Tubeless Compatible, 32h)?
> ...


Congrats on the purchase. I'm still thoroughly enjoying my 2016 Mason Comp. Was thinking of getting a full suspension bike, but I think I'm going to hang on to the Mason longer and just do a few upgrades.

As for your questions. It's a 27.5 rim, so I'm pretty sure you can't put a 29er tire on it. Is the current NN tire that you have the SnakeSkin version? From what I noticed OEM tire is usually the Performance level that has no SnakeSkin.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> No, I believe the Mercury is a rebadged Novatec, although I could be wrong. It has 27 POE and looks exactly the same as the hub I have. Not a bad hub. Another option if you have a budget closer to $500 is to get a wheelset built. There are some builders who ship and have reasonable rates. It just depends on what kind of budget you're looking at.
> 
> If you haven't signed up for Active Junky, shoot over a PM with your email and I'll send an invite. Or at least get an invite from someone to get the sign up bonus.


S0ckeyeus, PM sent. I'm trying to limit my budget to $500 including shipping and everything. Maybe I should do some more research on custom wheelset and see if sub $500 is possible. The user review for the Hope 35w at ChainReaction is a bit concerning though. Any recommendation for wheel builder?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> S0ckeyeus, PM sent. I'm trying to limit my budget to $500 including shipping and everything. Maybe I should do some more research on custom wheelset and see if sub $500 is possible. The user review for the Hope 35w at ChainReaction is a bit concerning though. Any recommendation for wheel builder?


Invitation sent. I remember seeing some recommended wheelbuilders somewhere on this site and some of the prices looked pretty reasonable. Some of the guys operate off of eBay or Facebook. You might want to post up in the wheel forum on here to get recommendations. It's been a while since I was looking at wheels and forget their names. I once had a set of wheels under $500 from CUSTOM HAND BUILT BICYCLE WHEELS Built By Professionals - Prowheelbuider.com with Bitex hubs (same as the Bike Hubs Store ones people seem to like), but they might have had a special promotion going. Custom and semi-custom wheels start getting expensive fast, and you usually end up paying more than a pre-built wheel.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

It came, Easton Havoc 35 50mm love so far have ridden it yet.









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

My tires came they are 2.8 but they measure more towards a 2.6, so once again they are measuring the contact patch probably. I had the caliper out to 2.8. Just a little short.









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Putting in a remote lockout.









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Remote lockout cartridge final came in it works great yaaah









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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

*Novatec replacement hub - drive ring cracked*

Finally found the source of the creaking coming from my rear wheel. The ring is cracked in three places. Trying to work with Novatec to figure out solution. Check this if you have a mystery creak back there.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

ElGreco said:


> Finally found the source of the creaking coming from my rear wheel. The ring is cracked in three places. Trying to work with Novatec to figure out solution. Check this if you have a mystery creak back there.
> View attachment 1152347


How you get that off?

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ElGreco said:


> Finally found the source of the creaking coming from my rear wheel. The ring is cracked in three places. Trying to work with Novatec to figure out solution. Check this if you have a mystery creak back there.
> View attachment 1152347


That sucks. Was that a hub you got through warranty replacement of the stock hub?


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

This was the warranty replacement hub. It lasted about 500 trail miles.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

ElGreco said:


> This was the warranty replacement hub. It lasted about 500 trail miles.


That sucks. I hope mine holds up.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

ElGreco said:


> Finally found the source of the creaking coming from my rear wheel. The ring is cracked in three places. Trying to work with Novatec to figure out solution. Check this if you have a mystery creak back there.
> View attachment 1152347


The solution is to buy a different hub. Standard issue Novatec crap. Don't waste your money getting a warranty hub relaced into that wheel - throwing good money after bad. Just walk away. Don't look back. Get something else. Novatec sucks, and Diamondback sucks for continuing to spec these on their bikes. I know that Diamondback knows that these hubs suck, and they still continue to use them. They leave us to deal with the inept Novatec warranty process directly through Novatec. On multiple previous warranty claims, Novatec themselves had trouble locating these same ratchet rings, a Sram freehub body, and an axle. What kind of a hub manufacturer has difficulty finding an axle or freehub body? When I finally did get a replacement ratchet ring, they told me once I put the new one in, to ride it "gently" for a while, as the new ones have a tendency to crack right away. Seriously? I have fought this battle ten ways from Sunday with Novatec and Diamondback and finally threw in the towel.

Those guys can go eat $h1t. These hubs have cost me a lot of money and time in dealing with warranties and repairs, but most importantly, a crap ton of riding time. These hubs cannot be ridden even moderately hard. They should have the same stickers on them that WalMart puts on their mountain bike shaped objects..."Not intended for offroad use".


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Bad thing is...MANY bike companies spec these hubs whether branded Novatec or rebranded house brands on their bikes...even "highend" brands. So it's not just a DB thing.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Nubster said:


> Bad thing is...MANY bike companies spec these hubs whether branded Novatec or rebranded house brands on their bikes...even "highend" brands. So it's not just a DB thing.


Yeah. I think the one DB originally specced on the bike (D342SB) was not a great hub by any stretch of the imagination. My experience with the replacement hub has been good so far, but who knows? Like you say, the D712SB (warranty replacement hub) is pretty popular. I'm not sure if this is a common problem or not.

Unlike watermonkey above, I didn't have any costs related to the warranty replacement, but I chose to chip the wheel to them. My experience with Novatec customer service was actually pretty good, but maybe I got lucky.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Yeah...I'm sure there's varying degrees of quality in the Novatec line...so perhaps DB is scraping the bottom of the barrel while other brands like Santa Cruz are a bit higher up the ladder.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

So I couldn't resist on getting the Hope Wheelset. It's hard to pass it up for the value. I'm planning to run them tubeless in the future, but for the near future I'm going to be using tube. The wheelset comes with this kind of rim tape. I know this tape is meant for use with tube. My question is, should I install this tape while using tube, then replace with tubeless tape later? Or just go straight with tubeless tape? Or maybe put the rim tape now, then overlay with the tubeless tape later? 
As you can tell, I never tape a rim before . This is the tape that I'm planning to use for tubeless: 3M Polyethylene Film Tape. It was really cheap when I got it (about $9).


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> So I couldn't resist on getting the Hope Wheelset. It's hard to pass it up for the value. I'm planning to run them tubeless in the future, but for the near future I'm going to be using tube. The wheelset comes with this kind of rim tape. I know this tape is meant for use with tube. My question is, should I install this tape while using tube, then replace with tubeless tape later? Or just go straight with tubeless tape? Or maybe put the rim tape now, then overlay with the tubeless tape later?
> As you can tell, I never tape a rim before . This is the tape that I'm planning to use for tubeless: 3M Polyethylene Film Tape. It was really cheap when I got it (about $9).


Either ride it as is with a tube or set up the rim for tubeless right out of the gate. You don't want to tape over a rim strip. Let us know how the wheelset is.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks s0ckeyeus. I think I'll set up the rim as tubeless out of the gate. Will keep you guys posted.


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## k1ng (Aug 4, 2008)

hello all,

i was hoping i could get some tech assistance with my mason. i was pedaling on a flat section of trail and all of a sudden i hear a single loud popping/snapping/breaking noise and i am unable to pedal.

i take a closer look and my rotor is pushed against one of the brake pads. i try taking off my wheel and everything seems to be fine. i put the wheel back on and i cannot tighten my thru axle without the brake pad pushing up against the rotor. i took off the wheel again and checked my brake pads, all good. i also checked my brake housing mounting bolts and they are tight. this leads me to believe maybe some sort of spacer broke that limits my thru axle from being over tightened? as i tighten it, i can watch my frame/brake housing being pulled in.

i have tried all sorts of googling, i cannot really find any answers.

i attached some pictures if maybe someone can point out something i am missing?

thanks for any help!


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

Do you have the original wheels. There is a known issue with the original hub being defective. Take the wheel out and spin it. If the axle end caps turn with the wheel then the axle is locked and you have one of the defective hubs.


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## k1ng (Aug 4, 2008)

ElGreco said:


> Do you have the original wheels. There is a known issue with the original hub being defective. Take the wheel out and spin it. If the axle end caps turn with the wheel then the axle is locked and you have one of the defective hubs.


i do have the original wheels.

are these the axle end caps?


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## k1ng (Aug 4, 2008)

i made a video! so what i am trying to show at first is the rotor centered in the brake pads before closing the cam. i then spin the wheel, and close the cam. as seen from the video, the axle is very loose (takes little effort to close) yet still pulls the brake over and slows the wheel. and in the last view i am trying to show how much the brake moved over. and the brake housing mounting bolts are tight.


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

k1ng said:


> i made a video! so what i am trying to show at first is the rotor centered in the brake pads before closing the cam. i then spin the wheel, and close the cam. as seen from the video, the axle is very loose (takes little effort to close) yet still pulls the brake over and slows the wheel. and in the last view i am trying to show how much the brake moved over. and the brake housing mounting bolts are tight.


I would try to tighten the clamp on the axle making sure the wheel is set correctly. After you are certain the wheel is tight and secure, loosen the two bolts (5mm allen I believe) holding the brake caliper and re-center over the rotor. Squeeze the brake lever and very slowly re-tighten the bolts, incrementally one after the other. When reasonably tight, release the brake level and check for clearance.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Just put on today a absolute black 30t oval. I notice that I get up to speed faster so far.









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## rdalexanry (Sep 10, 2017)

Anyone done any down hill runs? I've got a stock mason trail and going to try a run here soon that has a couple 10ft drops and a few small table tops. I'm curious if I should bump the tire pressure to over 20 psi I'm only a little worried about if the tires squirm on the landing.


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

It really looks like your axle end caps are moving with the wheel. They should not be moving.

Take the wheel off the bike. Hold on to end caps. Spin wheel. Does the wheel move freely, or does it want to spin the end caps. If the later, then you may have the defective hub that locks your end caps.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

rdalexanry said:


> Anyone done any down hill runs? I've got a stock mason trail and going to try a run here soon that has a couple 10ft drops and a few small table tops. I'm curious if I should bump the tire pressure to over 20 psi I'm only a little worried about if the tires squirm on the landing.


in really aggressive transitions between jumps I found doing like 22-23 psi rear helps a bit on the tire rollover on my Maxxis Minions, at 17-18psi I can feel it. In corners I have not had an issue though, its just pumping transitions at the bottom of jumps.


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## k1ng (Aug 4, 2008)

joxong said:


> So I couldn't resist on getting the Hope Wheelset. It's hard to pass it up for the value. I'm planning to run them tubeless in the future, but for the near future I'm going to be using tube. The wheelset comes with this kind of rim tape. I know this tape is meant for use with tube. My question is, should I install this tape while using tube, then replace with tubeless tape later? Or just go straight with tubeless tape? Or maybe put the rim tape now, then overlay with the tubeless tape later?
> As you can tell, I never tape a rim before . This is the tape that I'm planning to use for tubeless: 3M Polyethylene Film Tape. It was really cheap when I got it (about $9).


have you had a chance to ride the hope wheelset??


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

k1ng said:


> have you had a chance to ride the hope wheelset??


I finally got it installed a few days ago. Putting on the nobby nic tire was such a pain. Maybe it's the combination of the rim, tape & tire, but this was the hardest tire w/ tube installation I ever done. 
A bit of comment on the the film tape. The tape is very stretchable which made it conforming to the rim really easy. The tape was 2" in width, and I had to cut it down to 38mm width to fit the rim. The biggest downside for the tape is that it's fairly easy to tear. I was trying to use the tire lever to seat the tire and I managed to tear the tape which prompted me to re-tape . Cutting the tape to smaller width is not an easy feat as well, there would be some section in the roll, that didn't get cut properly and it would just stretch, ruining the tape edge. In short, in the future, I think I would just spend the little bit of money to get the Stan tape with proper width. It's not worth the hassle. If you look at Amazon, this tape is actually even more expensive 

Now as for the rim itself, I have no complain, the build quality looks good. The sound of the hub can annoy you, but I think it's sexy . The rear rim is almost 300gr lighter than the old rim. I put on NN 3.0 on the front & NN 2.8 on the back, it made the wheel less square look compared w/ stock combo (the 50mm rim & WTB 2.8 tire).

As for ride impression. I'm not sure if I can form any conclusion yet, I was expecting faster climbing time, but Strava is proving otherwise (it's relatively the same). I don't think I notice the sluggishness, but going from WTB 2.8 to NN 3.0 must've made quite a different. I think I have too much change (different rim, different front tire, with tube), to be able to attribute the difference to the rim itself. Sorry I can't offer more definitive feedback on the rim.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Trying going tubless with the stock rims the Front one work good. The Back wheel I could not for the life of me get the valve to sit correctly so it wont leak air. I pumped up and let sit, I made sure that I swished the sealant around and nothing. It is starting to get expensive to go tube. I bought new valves and still no go. Thought about retaping but damn it I want to ride. So tube back in and when I get more money tube is going back in the front.

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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

No idea how I pulled this one off as I didn't hit anything.


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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

I had a regular 2016 mason, did that 4 times in 6 months to the cassettes. Diamondback helped me with the first one. Hanger usually bent too


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Morris759 said:


> I had a regular 2016 mason, did that 4 times in 6 months to the cassettes. Diamondback helped me with the first one. Hanger usually bent too


Yeah, I am legitimately confused though as the bike has basically stood in my garage since my last ride and I noticed that as I was climbing, my gear kept jumping and I figured my hanger was bent and I tried setting my upper and lower limits at the trail with no avail. Then i noticed it was just gears 7-8 and realized the issue.


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## Szy_szka (Oct 29, 2015)

ShadowGLI said:


> Yeah, I am legitimately confused though as the bike has basically stood in my garage since my last ride and I noticed that as I was climbing, my gear kept jumping and I figured my hanger was bent and I tried setting my upper and lower limits at the trail with no avail. Then i noticed it was just gears 7-8 and realized the issue.


How do you get your bike to and from the trail? Any chance for an accidental contact with the cassette while the bike is being on the bike rack/carrier?


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Can you check the rear derailleur to see if anything is damaged? I have the 2016 Mason comp, and I've experienced the derailleur hanger got badly bent just from riding on the trail w/o hitting anything. It was really obvious that the hanger bent to the inside. After the 1st time it happened, I replaced the hanger. It was fine for a while, then I noticed that all of a sudden I hear a like a grinding noise when I'm at the lowest gear. When I inspected at home, I saw that the hanger was a bit damaged at the point where it was making contact w/ the derailleur b-plate washer (near where the b-screw). I noticed the b-plate washer of the derailleur was a bit stripped. I probably have to upload some picture for this to make sense.


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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

Every time that happened to me it would bend the hanger. It was always climbing, zero problems on those same climbs on my db line or current catch 2


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Szy_szka said:


> How do you get your bike to and from the trail? Any chance for an accidental contact with the cassette while the bike is being on the bike rack/carrier?


I use a thule side arm carrier (holds the front wheel)

It's not to say something couldn't have hit it some how, but I don't remember noticing an issue on my last ride and I'm unaware of anything happening to the bike between my prior ride and this one.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Hi guys, here's what I meant earlier about the b-screw washer getting stripped:















I'm thinking there's some fundamental design flaw with how the b-screw washer interfacing w/ the derailleur hanger. Below are pictures of my derailleur hanger. The black one is the original hanger. The silver one off the bike is my 2nd hanger (probably used for about 3 months). The one on the bike is a brand new hanger that I just put on the bike. I haven't even taken it for a ride yet, just adjusting the derailleur at home and you can see it has already developing a damage. This is brand new derailleur and hanger.






















Do you guys notice any of this problem?


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

@ShadowGLI,
And you know what, while I was adjusting the derailleur with a new chain, rd, cable & hanger, I noticed that the chain is making slight noise on the 3rd lowest gear... and walla.. I have the exact same problem as yours!







Looks like it's happening to 3 people already. Anybody else with similar problem? I can't just continue replacing cassette.. that's nuts. I really think its some design flaw.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ElGreco said:


> This was the warranty replacement hub. It lasted about 500 trail miles.


How did you remove the ratchet ring? I got a replacement under warranty also but I can figure out how to get the old one out. I suspect it's a press fit but getting the bad one out is the issue for me.


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## Morris759 (Mar 19, 2016)

tonyride1 said:


> How did you remove the ratchet ring? I got a replacement under warranty also but I can figure out how to get the old one out. I suspect it's a press fit but getting the bad one out is the issue for me.


You need the cassete removal thing that goes in the center and the tool with the chain. Mine where reallyhard to turn, scared me a bit the first time


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

The ratchet ring is threaded in. You need the right tool for the ring you need to remove. When removing, heat is your friend along with a half inch drive ratchet and leverage multiplier (long pipe on ratchet). Thats how I did my Sun Ringle hub.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Rngspnr said:


> The ratchet ring is threaded in. You need the right tool for the ring you need to remove. When removing, heat is your friend along with a half inch drive ratchet and leverage multiplier (long pipe on ratchet). Thats how I did my Sun Ringle hub.


I think this one is pressed in. Novatec seems to sell a tool for the threaded one but not the pressed version. I'm not sure how they expect people to replace the ratchet ring themselves without resorting to potentially sketchy DIY tactics.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

No, the ratchet ring is definitely not threaded in. I've attached a picture of my wheel taken apart showing just the ring in the free hub body. You can see the 6 notches around the circumference of the silver ring. Also attached are the pictures of the actual replacement ring with the same notches. No threads at all. This ring is obviously a press fit ring and not threaded. I just need to get the old ring out so I can get the new ring in.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Sorry, there's is the old ring still in the free hub. As you can see it looks just like the one the OP posted in post #909.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Could the cassette issues above be due to an insufficiently tightened lock ring? What cassettes are people having problems with?

As for the B-tension plate issue above, I've not had any problems. I had to replace my hanger, but that was due to getting hit by a rock. My old hanger has no damage like that shown in the picture and my derailleur (stock GX) has had no issue either. You might want to try a steel B-tension plate like this one Derailleur Hangers - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - Bicycle Repair & CNC Milling - Whistler BC. Maybe a little Loctite on the derailleur threads would be good to ensure that the derailleur isn't coming loose and ruining your B-tension plate.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tonyride1 said:


> Sorry, there's is the old ring still in the free hub. As you can see it looks just like the one the OP posted in post #909.
> View attachment 1171734


Did you try contacting Novatec? I can't really see any damage on the one in your picture. I'd probably end up just running the old one.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Did you try contacting Novatec? I can't really see any damage on the one in your picture. I'd probably end up just running the old one.


I actually ended up keeping the old one in there and just replaced the pawls. The hub failed because it loosened up and the pawls got chewed up. At the time I didn't know if the ratchet ring was also damaged so when I contacted Novatec they sent me both the pawls and the ratchet ring. I was able to replace the pawls no problem. But I couldn't figure out how to remove the ring. I contacted Novatec but got no reply. Later I found out the rep I was dealing with no longer works there so I'm SOL. It appears the ring didn't sustain much damage so I'm still able to use it but I would still like to know how to get it out in case I do need to replace it.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I think this one is pressed in. Novatec seems to sell a tool for the threaded one but not the pressed version. I'm not sure how they expect people to replace the ratchet ring themselves without resorting to potentially sketchy DIY tactics.


WOW! That sucks!


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

If it's broken in multiple spots I would try a hammer and punch to see if I could get it out in pieces.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I think what's needed is called a blind bearing extractor tool or something to that effect. I just wanted to be sure before I get one.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Rngspnr said:


> If it's broken in multiple spots I would try a hammer and punch to see if I could get it out in pieces.


There's bearings on the other side so if you try to hammer it through you can damage the bearings.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Mine lock ring was tight. The cassette has no play at all. This is my original cassette (HG50 I think). I'm replacing it with HG81.

I thought about getting that steel B-tension plate, but it's pretty pricey compared to a brand new derailleur and plus I saw the video to replace looks like a pain to do. Hopefully the new RD will be ok.



s0ckeyeus said:


> Could the cassette issues above be due to an insufficiently tightened lock ring? What cassettes are people having problems with?
> 
> As for the B-tension plate issue above, I've not had any problems. I had to replace my hanger, but that was due to getting hit by a rock. My old hanger has no damage like that shown in the picture and my derailleur (stock GX) has had no issue either. You might want to try a steel B-tension plate like this one Derailleur Hangers - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - The Fix Bicycle Products Inc - Bicycle Repair & CNC Milling - Whistler BC. Maybe a little Loctite on the derailleur threads would be good to ensure that the derailleur isn't coming loose and ruining your B-tension plate.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Hi guys,
Here's the response I got from DB when I brought it up to their attention:


> It would appear that the derailleur may have been installed improperly as the piece which locates the derailleur on the hanger was contacting the hanger as the hanger bolt was tightened, causing damage to the hanger and derailleur. The hanger still looks usable. The derailleur might be repairable if the locating piece can be straightened and the b tension can be properly adjusted.


I'm a little confused with their response. See picture below with how I'm naming the component. How can the B-Tension Plate not touch the Hanger since the
B-Tension Plate is a loose piece? When you tighten the B-Screw, it'll push
the B-Tension Plate to hook up w/ the Hanger. How should the RD be installed? If it was improper installation, I want to do it the right way now with the new RD & hanger I just got.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Hi guys,
> Here's the response I got from DB when I brought it up to their attention:
> 
> I'm a little confused with their response. See picture below with how I'm naming the component. How can the B-Tension Plate not touch the Hanger since the
> ...


Honestly, that was my first reaction too, but it's really hard to tell from the pictures. The B-screw is supposed to sit on the triangular section,
and the flat part is supposed to rest on the notch in the hanger. That explanation is probably not great, so check out this picture (it's also in the GX manual on page 7: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...rev_c_2x_3x_mtb_derailleurs_user_manual.pdf):







.


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## Tiboy (Dec 10, 2012)

joxong said:


> Hi guys,
> Here's the response I got from DB when I brought it up to their attention:
> 
> I'm a little confused with their response. See picture below with how I'm naming the component. How can the B-Tension Plate not touch the Hanger since the
> ...


I agree with the response DB provided. You can see the B screw plate was bent and the derailleur hanger is damaged. Easy mishap when installing a derailleur if you are not paying attention. Was this done from the factory?


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

Here's a picture from another angle. I think this is how the Hanger, B-Screw & B-Tension Plate should connect when installed right? I'm pretty sure that's how I've always done it, I'm not sure how I could've bent the B-Tension Plate and damage the hanger during install.


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## ElGreco (Mar 24, 2014)

Since mine was cracked in 3 places, I just used a picks and was able to pull out one piece, then the rest just fell out.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Here's a picture from another angle. I think this is how the Hanger, B-Screw & B-Tension Plate should connect when installed right? I'm pretty sure that's how I've always done it, I'm not sure how I could've bent the B-Tension Plate and damage the hanger during install.
> View attachment 1172025


Yeah. That's the way it goes.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I ordered a custom wheelset a couple weeks back, and it's supposed to be arriving on Friday. I'd been going back and forth about upgrading for about a year. I haven't had any trouble with my rear hub since being upgraded by Novatec, but the i50 rims were hard to get over, especially since I couldn't run a 3.0" tire in the back with them and getting too much sidewall damage with a 2.8". My new wheels will have i40 WTB Scrapers, Bitex hubs (96 POE rear), and Sapim Race spokes. Should be nice.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Yeah. That's the way it goes.


Thanks s0ckeyeus. That's how I've always been installing it. Not sure what would've bent the derailleur tension plate & damage the hanger last time. Anyway, they're all new again now, hopefully no damages now.


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## joxong (Dec 13, 2016)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I ordered a custom wheelset a couple weeks back, and it's supposed to be arriving on Friday. I'd been going back and forth about upgrading for about a year. I haven't had any trouble with my rear hub since being upgraded by Novatec, but the i50 rims were hard to get over, especially since I couldn't run a 3.0" tire in the back with them and getting too much sidewall damage with a 2.8". My new wheels will have i40 WTB Scrapers, Bitex hubs (96 POE rear), and Sapim Race spokes. Should be nice.


Yeah that should be nice. I'm running the Hope wheelset with NN 3.0 front and 2.8 back and the tires looks much better w/ the less wider rim. NN has much more drag going up n down compared to WTB though.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

joxong said:


> Yeah that should be nice. I'm running the Hope wheelset with NN 3.0 front and 2.8 back and the tires looks much better w/ the less wider rim. NN has much more drag going up n down compared to WTB though.


Yeah, I've heard that about those tires. I'm looking forward to the narrower rim. 50mm is just huge. My rear rim has a noticeable dent in it, not enough to cause any issues with tubeless or performance but it's there. I'll probably hold on to the wheels though and keep them as a spare.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

New wheels arrived yesterday, and I was able to get out while the trails were still frozen this morning. I'm super happy with the wheelset. The bike is way livelier, and I was able to drop over 1.4lbs in wheel weight. The stock wheels were 2627g. Heavy! The new ones are 1976g, and the i40 rims result in a way better tire profile. The difference in the way the wheels handle was even greater than I anticipated.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

joxong said:


> @ShadowGLI,
> And you know what, while I was adjusting the derailleur with a new chain, rd, cable & hanger, I noticed that the chain is making slight noise on the 3rd lowest gear... and walla.. I have the exact same problem as yours!
> View attachment 1171712
> 
> Looks like it's happening to 3 people already. Anybody else with similar problem? I can't just continue replacing cassette.. that's nuts. I really think its some design flaw.


Talking to a bike shop they said it happens from shifting under load. I actually called Sunrace and they sent me a replacement in under a week. I think its part of the challenge of having so much grip and torque going through big gears like that.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

tonyride1 said:


> I think what's needed is called a blind bearing extractor tool or something to that effect. I just wanted to be sure before I get one.


Its called a blind hole bearing puller - I picked one up at Harbor Freight several years ago. https://www.ebay.com/i/262443097362?chn=ps

I pulled this ratchet ring on my Novatec fatbike hub - same part. FYI - on the first gen novatec hub, they do thread in, and you need a different specialized single use tool to remove it. Most people that have replaced these press fit ratchet rings have had them fail (crack apart) shortly thereafter. I am slowly relacing new hubs in to replace all of the crappy Novatec rear hubs that have come stock on my 3 DB bikes, and two BD fatbikes - they're just not worth the headache.

I've treated myself to a Hope and DT swiss rear hub, but also really liking the Bike Hub store hubs too - pretty cheap and so far really solid.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

watermonkey said:


> Its called a blind hole bearing puller - I picked one up at Harbor Freight several years ago. https://www.ebay.com/i/262443097362?chn=ps
> 
> I pulled this ratchet ring on my Novatec fatbike hub - same part. FYI - on the first gen novatec hub, they do thread in, and you need a different specialized single use tool to remove it. Most people that have replaced these press fit ratchet rings have had them fail (crack apart) shortly thereafter. I am slowly relacing new hubs in to replace all of the crappy Novatec rear hubs that have come stock on my 3 DB bikes, and two BD fatbikes - they're just not worth the headache.
> 
> I've treated myself to a Hope and DT swiss rear hub, but also really liking the Bike Hub store hubs too - pretty cheap and so far really solid.


Thanks but I think I'm going to go your route if and when the hub goes. Just get a decent hub and build a rear wheel around it.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

watermonkey said:


> I've treated myself to a Hope and DT swiss rear hub, but also really liking the Bike Hub store hubs too - pretty cheap and so far really solid.


I've been impressed with my Bitex (mfg of BHS) hubs too, but I've only had them for a few weeks. They aren't blingy or super noisy, but they are light and seem to be solid.


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## fmendes (Jun 25, 2016)

So I have a 29er Rocky Mountain Instinct and am looking for a second bike for when I feel bored with the RM. For $700 would this Mason Trail be a good call? I'm a heavy person (260lb) so I'm a bit concerned about the problems people are posting with the cassette and hub. The only upgrade I'd surely do would be dropper seatpost, and I'm absolutely not concerned about weight (of the bike, I'm concerned about mine ).

Thanks!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Sram nx 1x11 installed last weekend









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

fmendes said:


> So I have a 29er Rocky Mountain Instinct and am looking for a second bike for when I feel bored with the RM. For $700 would this Mason Trail be a good call? I'm a heavy person (260lb) so I'm a bit concerned about the problems people are posting with the cassette and hub. The only upgrade I'd surely do would be dropper seatpost, and I'm absolutely not concerned about weight (of the bike, I'm concerned about mine ).
> 
> Thanks!


When I got the bike I was 385 and now 315 it has been one helluva bike. I haven't had the hub problems yet. Everything has been maintance or upgrades.

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

fmendes said:


> So I have a 29er Rocky Mountain Instinct and am looking for a second bike for when I feel bored with the RM. For $700 would this Mason Trail be a good call? I'm a heavy person (260lb) so I'm a bit concerned about the problems people are posting with the cassette and hub. The only upgrade I'd surely do would be dropper seatpost, and I'm absolutely not concerned about weight (of the bike, I'm concerned about mine ).


The hub thing would be the only thing to be concerned with. If you get a current bike and not old stock from 2016, the hub issue would likely not be a factor. The cassette problems people were having were almost definitely not a problem with the bike itself. In my opinion, You could do a whole lot worse than $700.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Adding some protection today.









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Funn zippa taco bash Install









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## Fuel53 (Nov 1, 2006)

Is that a '16 frame? They removed the erroneous listing of 05 tabs on all 2017 after I complained about mine but the new Mason 2 has ISCG 05 has them listed again but clearly not installed. Sloppy. They should just put them on there again.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Fuel53 said:


> Is that a '16 frame? They removed the erroneous listing of 05 tabs on all 2017 after I complained about mine but the new Mason 2 has ISCG 05 has them listed again but clearly not installed. Sloppy. They should just put them on there again.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Yes it is a 2016

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## richj8990 (Apr 4, 2017)

The small 15.5 inch frame version is on sale at Amazon for $679.99, regularly $1400

https://amazon.com/Diamondback-Bicy...r=1-27&keywords=27.5+mountain+bike&th=1&psc=1


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Has anybody upgrade the front rotors yet to a 203. I was thinking about upgrading just the front since rear is the biggest it can go at 180. Thank you.

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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

richj8990 said:


> The small 15.5 inch frame version is on sale at Amazon for $679.99, regularly $1400
> 
> https://amazon.com/Diamondback-Bicy...r=1-27&keywords=27.5+mountain+bike&th=1&psc=1


Thats the 2017 model so you get wider rims, SRAM crank


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

The size is right for me, so I am thinking about getting a 2017 model.

Anyone know actual width of the wheels (inner and outer)?
I know specs say 38.

Also, anyone put an oval ring on the 2017 with SRAM crank?

And last question...anyone with 2017 model having the hub issues?

thanks


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## hell_yes (Mar 17, 2018)

I'm joining the party a little late, but happy to be in the club. I picked up a 2017 Mason Trail from Diamondback directly about three weeks ago. I've got about 100 gravel miles on it. It's my first MTB so getting accustomed before hitting some real trails. I'm stoked.


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

urgent request.

would anyone be willing to measure from the top of your seat to the ground in the seats's lowest position?

and measure from top of the frame's seat tube to the ground?

please let me know what size and year Mason you have.

thanks !


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

ok, measurements no longer needed (was trying to see if the women's Rely Trail in size large would work for us and needed some dimensions to compare0.

Mason Trails came back in stock ever so briefly this evening and we were able to grab two. Phew !

thanks !


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## Amelia Adventures (Mar 23, 2018)

*Mason Dropper post*

2017 Mason Trail:

Looking for dropper post install advise.

Small bike frame, i'm 5'5"

Right now I have exactly 125mm travel from top to bottom when moving seat post up and down while riding. Should I go with a 100mm just to be conservative and would I be able to dial in exact fit over time better than 125mm dropper?

Has anyone installed internal dropper on Mason? Looking at pictures of Mason 2 it looks like it goes under bottom bracket on up lower tube?
Any instal advise or dropper post recommendations?

Thanks in advance,
Thomas


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Amelia Adventures said:


> 2017 Mason Trail:
> 
> Looking for dropper post install advise.
> 
> ...


The dropper cable exits on the back of the down tube and runs under the BB and up. DB includes hardware to secure the cable for bikes that don't come stock with an internal dropper. To be safe, you might want to go with the 100mm dropper if you only have 125mm to work with, since the collar on the dropper post takes up some room too.


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

2017 tires on the Mason Trail say they are 3.0". 

Did the 2016s have 3.5 on the sidewall or 2.8 ? 

I dont have a caliper to measure the true width of casing.

Are these the same tires that came on the 2016 ?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

k9adv said:


> 2017 tires on the Mason Trail say they are 3.0".
> 
> Did the 2016s have 3.5 on the sidewall or 2.8 ?
> 
> ...


The 2016 Mason Trail came with 3.5" Chaoyang Big Daddy Tires. You might do a search to see if you can find their actual width or measure with a ruler. I'm assuming it's not a great tire. The other '16 Masons came with 2.8" WTB Trailblazers, which were pretty crappy and heavy.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

s0ckeyeus said:


> The 2016 Mason Trail came with 3.5" Chaoyang Big Daddy Tires. You might do a search to see if you can find their actual width or measure with a ruler. I'm assuming it's not a great tire. The other '16 Masons came with 2.8" WTB Trailblazers, which were pretty crappy and heavy.


Mine came with the Big Daddy's. They say 3.5 but that is the contact patch. The actual with was 2.8. they lasted me quite along time

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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

Daholla77 said:


> Mine came with the Big Daddy's. They say 3.5 but that is the contact patch. The actual with was 2.8. they lasted me quite along time
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


ok, they actually said 3.5 on them?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

k9adv said:


> ok, they actually said 3.5 on them?


Yup

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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

What brake pads do you guys recommend over stock? 
My front pads are great but my rear feel so soft, have no power, and constantly squeak


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Thabreit said:


> What brake pads do you guys recommend over stock?
> My front pads are great but my rear feel so soft, have no power, and constantly squeak


It's probably the brakes, not the pads. If you want you brakes to function correctly, replace the brakes.

Mine came with Avid DB1. Replaced with Shimano Deore - would highly recommend.

Swap only cost me about $75 after I sold the DB1 on eBay. Braking so much better now and the Shimano brakes are maintenance free in my experience.


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

may have a new, never used, size small 2017 Mason frame for sale soon, if anyone is interested.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

tjc4golf said:


> It's probably the brakes, not the pads. If you want you brakes to function correctly, replace the brakes.
> 
> Mine came with Avid DB1. Replaced with Shimano Deore - would highly recommend.
> 
> Swap only cost me about $75 after I sold the DB1 on eBay. Braking so much better now and the Shimano brakes are maintenance free in my experience.


I plan on switching my Tektros for Shimano SLX in the next couple of months.

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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

Ended up picking up Shimano xt’s for the rear seem really nice compared to the stock build quality wise. Have not been on the trails yet waiting for a bleeder bottle to come in so I can shorten the brake line some.


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## narcoleptic (Aug 21, 2015)

Does anyone have a Chaoyang Big Daddy tire they'd be willing to sell? The stock tire on the 2016 Mason Trail. I rolled the bead on one of mine and its stuck inside out.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

narcoleptic said:


> Does anyone have a Chaoyang Big Daddy tire they'd be willing to sell? The stock tire on the 2016 Mason Trail. I rolled the bead on one of mine and its stuck inside out.


I don't have a Chaoyang but I do have a pair of Kenda Havok Sport 2.8" tires you can have really cheap. Where are you located?


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

narcoleptic said:


> Does anyone have a Chaoyang Big Daddy tire they'd be willing to sell? The stock tire on the 2016 Mason Trail. I rolled the bead on one of mine and its stuck inside out.


Why would you want another Big Daddy? Maybe give a Rocket Ron, Nobby Nic, Rekon, High Roller, Minion, etc. a try.


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## narcoleptic (Aug 21, 2015)

tonyride1 said:


> I don't have a Chaoyang but I do have a pair of Kenda Havok Sport 2.8" tires you can have really cheap. Where are you located?


North Texas, near Fort Worth.



tjc4golf said:


> Why would you want another Big Daddy? Maybe give a Rocket Ron, Nobby Nic, Rekon, High Roller, Minion, etc. a try.


They've been just fine for the trails around here and they're cheap. Just figured I'd try to find a cast-off first, I can't really spring for a set of new tires right now and this was due to my stupidity.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

I found the stock tires to be fine but once I switched to a 3.0 rocket ron I'd never go back. The RR have a much better tire profile (even on the stock blue rims) much less rolling resistance with a similar amount of grip. Search around pink bike buy/sell for tires. I found a set of basically brand new rocket rons for $40.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

North Texas means they'll need to be shipped and that's probably not worth the cost or effort. I'm in Central NJ.


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## k9adv (Mar 17, 2018)

Brand new, never used size small Mason frame for sale

http://forums.mtbr.com/classifieds/...ason-frame-size-small-never-used-1077077.html


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Scored a set of 29er Bontrager wheels w 2.35 tires for 180 shipped to have something a little faster rolling and sharper. Gonna go test em out today.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

ShadowGLI said:


> Scored a set of 29er Bontrager wheels w 2.35 tires for 180 shipped to have something a little faster rolling and sharper. Gonna go test em out today.


I like it.


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## hell_yes (Mar 17, 2018)

ShadowGLI said:


> Scored a set of 29er Bontrager wheels w 2.35 tires for 180 shipped to have something a little faster rolling and sharper. Gonna go test em out today.


Very cool. How's the tire clearance?


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

hell_yes said:


> Very cool. How's the tire clearance?


Tons in the back, maybe 1/4" front with the mud guard.

Went out for the maiden ride today, went well overall, climbing on dirt was excellent, a little sharp on rock gardens. Only real issue I had was rolling the sidewall on the front tire descending and scrubbing out. Did not have the grip and sidewall stability the 2.8" minions do.


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## Thabreit (Jun 23, 2016)

What fork pressure came stock in this bike and what pressure are you guys running for your weights?


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

I think mine was around 75 psi when I got it, but I run it at about 140 normally. I'm a clydesdale (270#) and I like a stiffer fork. That being said, I just got it back from my local mechanic who rebuilt it and put in a volume spacer to give it a more progressive spring rate. I'm going to start with it at 125 and work from there. I picked up a rigid fork to use while mine was being rebuilt and to use for bikepacking. I disliked it strongly on the trail.


Thabreit said:


> What fork pressure came stock in this bike and what pressure are you guys running for your weights?


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Sadly the Mason Pro is on the chopping block. DB won't be bringing it back and will only restock the lower spec Masons.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Nubster said:


> Sadly the Mason Pro is on the chopping block. DB won't be bringing it back and will only restock the lower spec Masons.


The Comp and Pro were great bikes. I'm kind of bummed they are discontinuing them, but not too bad because I have mine already. The Sync'r Carbon looks like it'll be sweet though once it comes out.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I may put my Mason Pro in Medium up for sale if anyone is interested.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am planning on putting shimano brakes on my Mason. I was wondering does anybody know which adaptor I need to install the brakes. Both of my rotors are 180. Thank you


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am planning on putting shimano brakes on my Mason. I was wondering does anybody know which adaptor I need to install the brakes. Both of my rotors are 180. Thank you


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

What brakes are on there now? I think you should be able to mount them right on the existing brackets or adapters as long as those adapters are for the rotors you have on the bike.


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## Lovespicyfood (Aug 4, 2012)

Just sold my Mason for $625, not bad since I paid $799 1.5 years ago...

I never loved the bike I think mostly because of the narrow rims and the tire profile created because of this. Didn’t want to spend the money to change out rims to find out if it made the difference.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

tonyride1 said:


> What brakes are on there now? I think you should be able to mount them right on the existing brackets or adapters as long as those adapters are for the rotors you have on the bike.


Correct, they already have spacers installed. You only need adapters if you are going up to 203mm's


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Just sold my Mason for $625, not bad since I paid $799 1.5 years ago...
> 
> I never loved the bike I think mostly because of the narrow rims and the tire profile created because of this. Didn't want to spend the money to change out rims to find out if it made the difference.


Not Bad, honestly, I just put Maxxis Minion DHF/DHRII in 2.8" on last year, with 18 PSI front and rear I never had any issue of rolling beads and got great bite cornering. At some point I'd consider doing a 35mm rim, and I got some 29" wheels for efficiency, but I don't like the lack of bite they have (although they climb very efficiently).

I will prob sell those alone at some point unless I find a killer deal on some Minions or Assegai's for it. Maybe try the new continentals.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

tonyride1 said:


> What brakes are on there now? I think you should be able to mount them right on the existing brackets or adapters as long as those adapters are for the rotors you have on the bike.


They are the original one that came with it the tektro Aurigas. Also looking magura mt2 also.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

ShadowGLI said:


> Correct, they already have spacers installed. You only need adapters if you are going up to 203mm's


My front brakes don't have a spacer the rear one do though.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

What also wondering is the the raidon brake post says 160mm rotor but my bike came with rotors 180mm back and front so would I only need an adaptor for the rear brake. Or just use the one that is already there and save some money. But part of me is like buy at least one for the back since that has an adaptor any way.

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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Daholla77 said:


> My front brakes don't have a spacer the rear one do though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


As long as you're not changing the size of the rotors you don't need any adapters or additional adapters. Just replace the calipers. I'm not familiar with the brakes you have on now but do you know if they're post mount or IS mount for both front and rear? If you're not sure the post pictures of he mounting points for both front and rear.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

tonyride1 said:


> As long as you're not changing the size of the rotors you don't need any adapters or additional adapters. Just replace the calipers. I'm not familiar with the brakes you have on now but do you know if they're post mount or IS mount for both front and rear? If you're not sure the post pictures of he mounting points for both front and rear.


They are post mounted.

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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

Daholla77 said:


> They are post mounted.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Then you should be good to go. Just remove the old brake calipers and replace them with the new Shimano ones. If the fork didn't have an adapter or spacer for the size of the rotor there then it doesn't need one. For the rear just keep the adapter on and install the new rear caliper.


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## ShadowGLI (Sep 15, 2016)

Yeah fork is designed for a 180mm, on 2016 model bikes, they said rear brake was 160mm but they did in fact come with 180mm instead. *bonus*


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## coastalcliff (Jul 27, 2018)

Does anybody know of anyone who has converted this to an ebike?


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## coastalcliff (Jul 27, 2018)

Lovespicyfood said:


> Just sold my Mason for $625, not bad since I paid $799 1.5 years ago...
> 
> I never loved the bike I think mostly because of the narrow rims and the tire profile created because of this. Didn't want to spend the money to change out rims to find out if it made the difference.


He'll be pretty bummed if he hears about the current sale on DB's site. $609.99 including free shipping, includes a tool kit and mud guard, and free professional assembly and adjustment if you choose to have it shipped to a local dealer. Mine was tax free. Sale ends 7/31/18. All sizes available as of today. Must have been a restock as the XL was sold out yesterday. Several other bikes on sale too, including the Mason Trail 2, but lots of sold out sizes.


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## narcoleptic (Aug 21, 2015)

coastalcliff said:


> He'll be pretty bummed if he hears about the current sale on DB's site. $609.99 including free shipping, includes a tool kit and mud guard, and free professional assembly and adjustment if you choose to have it shipped to a local dealer. Mine was tax free. Sale ends 7/31/18. All sizes available as of today. Must have been a restock as the XL was sold out yesterday. Several other bikes on sale too, including the Mason Trail 2, but lots of sold out sizes.


This post brought to you by Chex Mix.

Except for the rims, the Mason Trail was better equipped than the Mason 1.


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## coastalcliff (Jul 27, 2018)

narcoleptic said:


> This post brought to you by Chex Mix.
> 
> Except for the rims, the Mason Trail was better equipped than the Mason 1.


Yes, a good deal, but a good deal differently equipped from the "Trail". Pretty deceiving how they've named and described these, with the original Mason Trail bike, and now this Mason 1 trail bike, with the word trail only used in the categorization and description of the bike.


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## charrito_jlh (Nov 23, 2017)

So I just picked up a large Mason 2 from DB. I went with this size comparing to my current bike. The medium would have been too cramped. 

The problem is that the seatpost seems a bit too high and it's already at full insertion. Is there a way to limit how high the dropper rises or do I just need to replace it with a shorter dropper?

All other dimensions feel perfect and if I lock the dropper a few mm before it fully extends it works perfectly. But out on the trail it might be a PITA having to work it this way.

Any suggestions? Shoes with thicker soles maybe?

Sticky shoes & sharp pedals.


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

charrito_jlh said:


> So I just picked up a large Mason 2 from DB. I went with this size comparing to my current bike. The medium would have been too cramped.
> 
> The problem is that the seatpost seems a bit too high and it's already at full insertion. Is there a way to limit how high the dropper rises or do I just need to replace it with a shorter dropper?
> 
> ...


If your dropper is already inserted all the way down then the only thing to do is to replace it with a shorter one. You can't set the highest point of the rise unless you lower it a bit to your desired height each time you raise it but that's a pain.


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## charrito_jlh (Nov 23, 2017)

tonyride1 said:


> If your dropper is already inserted all the way down then the only thing to do is to replace it with a shorter one. You can't set the highest point of the rise unless you lower it a bit to your desired height each time you raise it but that's a pain.


Yep...that's what I thought. I may contact DB to see if they are willing to do an exchange. If not I'll find a shorter one. I think the one I have on my Specialized is a bit shorter...I'll check.

Sticky shoes & sharp pedals.


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## Jerome_Bergquist (Jul 16, 2016)

coastalcliff said:


> Does anybody know of anyone who has converted this to an ebike?


Why would you? It's a slack all mountain hardtail, I can't imagine you would be able to set it up with a motor and maintain it's balance (F/R weight distribution) and if you did set it up with a motor it wouldn't be very good at what it does. If you want to retrofit a motor on to a bike, there are bikes that would work better for what you'd be using it for (commuting, etc. I'm assuming).

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## PalmBeachR (Jul 31, 2018)

coastalcliff said:


> Does anybody know of anyone who has converted this to an ebike?


I have a Mason1 on the way (my first MTB), my plan B is to convert it to an ebike in case I just dont like mountain biking.

Google is your friend, there is a Reddit thread about it, also few other DB models that were converted.
You can look at other bikes (similar geometry, different brands)

Based on the extensive research I did on ebike conversions. I'd say the best would be a mid-range motor (BBSHD, or even a BBS02) with downtube battery for a sleek look or a triangle battery for more range.

The whole installation process is straight forward, so many videos covering this topic.


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## efinses (Aug 5, 2016)

Anyone know the weight of the stock blue rims? I am looking at new wheelsets and want to know if I would save or add weight with a wider alloy rim.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

What is the biggest rotor size can you put on the rear of a Mason trial? I am planning on putting 203 on the front with an adaptor but I am wondering could you do the same on the back with an adaptor. Thank you


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## tonyride1 (Oct 5, 2005)

I think you could but why? Bigger isn't always better. I have 180s on my Mason Pro. They stop fine and I'm no lightweight. Having brakes that are too large make them more susceptible to locking up, especially in the rear. Just a point of reference, on my Endure bike I have 203 up front and 180 in the rear and I have to feather the rear brake to keep it from locking up.


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## quinton (Aug 6, 2012)

Wish i would have got in on the sale,i need a new bike for son and daughter !


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## AshBorer (Oct 2, 2018)

a diamondback rep told me that he doesnt know for sure but he guesses that a mason 2 restock will come in around mid November

I think this is the bike that im going to get, I definitely will go try some bikes at my LBSs though. Unfortunately a lot of the brands ive been looking at aren't carried by any of them so ill prob just order something online unless I find something that I really like.


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## quinton (Aug 6, 2012)

What do you think the price will be?


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## AshBorer (Oct 2, 2018)

quinton said:


> What do you think the price will be?


well the 2018 was $1399 msrp but you could easily get it for $1150-1200 with the corporate discount. When you create a diamondback account you can create it with a corporate code, I used "CYCLE4TAW" and It worked for me. Maybe try it?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I installed new rotors on my bike 203s in the front and 180 in the back just waiting on the adaptor for the brake to show up to finish it off.









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## AshBorer (Oct 2, 2018)

6'0 with a 33" inseam. Would a large mason 2 fit ok?


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

AshBorer said:


> 6'0 with a 33" inseam. Would a large mason 2 fit ok?


Most likely. I'm 6' 1/2" with longer inseam and ride a large 2016 Mason Comp. It fit me like a glove stock, but I size my bikes so that the distance between the bottom bracket and the grips matches the distance between my feet and my hands (hands at bar width), which isn't the way most people seem to do it.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Have a 2016 Mason. Front derailleur cable rusted so now I'm effectively running a ghetto 1x10. Going to make it an official 1x10.

Two questions regarding the conversion...

(1) Chain Line - Want to move the chain line in so the single chain ring lines up with the center of the cassette.

I think there's a small spacer on the drive side of the bottom bracket that I could move to the non-drive side (highlighted in small red bracket in image below - sorry it's hard to see - look closely).

But I don't have a BB tool and want to do this job as easy as possible.

My double chain rings each have their own mount points on the crankset. So I think they're each attached with a set of single chainring bolts.

Could I just get a set of double chainring bolts and add a spacer with the spacer used to move the chain ring in? If so, any advice on the spacer? Something I could pick up at home depot? A regular old washer?










(2) Going to keep the original cassette for now (36t largest cog). I have the original x7 rear deraileur. Can anyone tell me by looking at the pic if it's a medium cage or long cage? Or tell me how to measure? I'm trying to figure out the largest cog I could use with this derailleur.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

What are the smallest tire size we can fit on the 2016 mason Trail without issues? Thank you.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am wondering are people still dealing with the rear hub problems from 2016. I am just now starting to deal with it, I think. I am wondering would Novatec still warranty it? But if that doesn't work out, I am wondering Should I just buy new hubs or get a whole new wheel set. THe WTB scrapers and The Mercury x3 boost wheel set. THey were going for about 250 to 270. As for the hubs I have found some decent ones for about 100 to 120 for a set. I was thinking hubs but I have no clue on how to disassemble a wheel. Thank you


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

Daholla77 said:


> What are the smallest tire size we can fit on the 2016 mason Trail without issues? Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Mason Trail has the i29 rims, right? (I know that's what the regular Mason has).

2.3 tires on i29 rims shouldn't be a problem. I think 2.5-2.6 is the sweetspot for i29. Could go down to 2.3 or up to 2.8 though. Probably safer to go skinnier than fatter.



Daholla77 said:


> I am wondering are people still dealing with the rear hub problems from 2016. I am just now starting to deal with it, I think. I am wondering would Novatec still warranty it? But if that doesn't work out, I am wondering Should I just buy new hubs or get a whole new wheel set. THe WTB scrapers and The Mercury x3 boost wheel set. THey were going for about 250 to 270. As for the hubs I have found some decent ones for about 100 to 120 for a set. I was thinking hubs but I have no clue on how to disassemble a wheel. Thank you


I got my rear hub warrantied immediately and it's still working (though I recently got a second wheelset). I doubt 2+ years later they will help you out.

Will be cheaper and less time consuming to buy a complete wheelset.

Can't speak for Mercury but WTB i40 Scraper wheelsets for $250 delivered to your door on eBay can't be beat in my opinion.

I'm running Scraper i40 front and Asym i35 rear. Had an i45 rim up front previously but that was too big / heavy for my taste.

I'd also consider a 29er wheelset in the i30 range for use with 29x2.5-2.6 tires if I were you.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tjc4golf said:


> I'd also consider a 29er wheelset in the i30 range for use with 29x2.5-2.6 tires if I were you.


Would those tires fit? I thought the max for the Mason frames was 29 x 2.3.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Would those tires fit? I thought the max for the Mason frames was 29 x 2.3.


I haven't tried it myself but I thought I read somewhere they would. And logically I'd think they'd fit.

The frame can fit 27.5x2.8 "plus" tire (plus tires have extra height making them nearly as tall as std 29 tires) in the rear easily. So I'd guess a standard (i.e. normal height) 29x2.6 shouldn't be too tall or too wide.

Can't guarantee anything though. And it may depend on the tire.

A lot of the new "wide trail" 2.5-2.6 tires aren't that wide. I put a Maxxis Rekon 2.6 on my stock DB i29 rims and it measures no more than 2.4. In contrast, Schwalbe 2.6 are more like plus tires - more voluminous than Maxxis 2.6.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I will probably go with the i40's because I want to stick with 27.5 x2.8 tire size


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tjc4golf said:


> I haven't tried it myself but I thought I read somewhere they would. And logically I'd think they'd fit.
> 
> The frame can fit 27.5x2.8 "plus" tire (plus tires have extra height making them nearly as tall as std 29 tires) in the rear easily. So I'd guess a standard (i.e. normal height) 29x2.6 shouldn't be too tall or too wide.
> 
> ...


Tire height is a big part of the issue. I don't think it's going to fit. The Mason frame tapers in at the seat stays and chain stays too much.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Daholla77 said:


> I will probably go with the i40's because I want to stick with 27.5 x2.8 tire size


i35s would be good for 2.8 too. I have i40 Scrapers and had issues with rim strikes in the rear when I ran 2.8 tires, but that may have had something to do with the tires I was running too (WTB Rangers).


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Tire height is a big part of the issue. I don't think it's going to fit. The Mason frame tapers in at the seat stays and chain stays too much.


Maybe it won't fit. But the quoted conversation below suggests to me that it probably will...



ShadowGLI said:


> Scored a set of 29er Bontrager wheels w 2.35 tires for 180 shipped to have something a little faster rolling and sharper. Gonna go test em out today.





hell_yes said:


> Very cool. How's the tire clearance?





ShadowGLI said:


> Tons in the back, maybe 1/4" front with the mud guard.


"Tons in back" sounds promising and applicable to all 2016 Mason owners.

The front would obviously depend on your fork. ShadowGLI has the Suntour fork. I've got the Reba. IDK what fork you have but here's a thread that shows Reba fits 29+ tires.

So I'm like 99% sure a 29x 2.5 setup would work for me. And I'm 98% confident could even do a 29 x 2.8 front and 29 x 2.6 rear setup.

Anyone have a suitable 29" rear wheel / tire combo to test with? Would love to know for sure...


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

tjc4golf said:


> Maybe it won't fit. But the quoted conversation below suggests to me that it probably will...
> 
> So I'm like 99% sure a 29x 2.5 setup would work for me. And I'm 98% confident could even do a 29 x 2.8 front and 29 x 2.6 rear setup.
> 
> Anyone have a suitable 29" rear wheel / tire combo to test with?


I have the Fox Float 34, which has a ton of room, but I'm not looking to switch. This doesn't look like a ton of room though. See how the chainstays start tapering right near the knobs of the tire? Obviously, a 2.6 is going to be wider and taller than the tire in the picture. I could be wrong though. Maybe it'd work.


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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

s0ckeyeus said:


> I have the Fox Float 34, which has a ton of room, but I'm not looking to switch. This doesn't look like a ton of room though. See how the chainstays start tapering right near the knobs of the tire? Obviously, a 2.6 is going to be wider and taller than the tire in the picture. I could be wrong though. Maybe it'd work.
> 
> View attachment 1235647


Yeah, hard to tell. Definitely more room at seatstays than chainstays. Maybe ShadowGLI was looking at seatstays when he said "tons of room."

If I got a 29 wheelset it'd be a second wheelset - not a primary wheelset - to swap in / out with my current 27.5+ i40/i35 wheelset so I'd want something different, not something redundant, and I'd go with a more XC oriented 29 wheelset making the question of whether it can fit something bigger than 29x2.35 in the rear moot for me.

Interesting question though and I think some would like a 29x2.5-2.6 setup so hopefully someone has a wheel / tire to test with and can definitively answer.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Is it worth it doing internal routing for a dropper post? I want to use the port that they gave us but it seems like once it comes out there is no place to secure it. But to go back up the post and across the top tubes. But the external route looks more decent and protected because it goes along the bottom of the top tubes.

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## Mchmnd (Dec 26, 2016)

My mason has 3 holes on the bottom of the down tube, and I think came with 3 cable retainers that would mount to theim for internal routed droppers.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Mchmnd said:


> My mason has 3 holes on the bottom of the down tube, and I think came with 3 cable retainers that would mount to theim for internal routed droppers.


I have those 3 holes but I don't remember it coming with clips to hold tubing. So do you know where we can get the clips to do it. Thank you

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## Mchmnd (Dec 26, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> I have those 3 holes but I don't remember it coming with clips to hold tubing. So do you know where we can get the clips to do it.


There's a few out there it looks like:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/ragley-universal-cable-guide-kit/rp-prod104665

Or your local hardware store might have generic cable clamps like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQ8PZRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fJoDb1RWCS8Y


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Mchmnd said:


> There's a few out there it looks like:
> https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/ragley-universal-cable-guide-kit/rp-prod104665
> 
> Or your local hardware store might have generic cable clamps like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQ8PZRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fJoDb1RWCS8Y


Thank you, did you ever have problems with cables getting hit?

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## Mchmnd (Dec 26, 2016)

Daholla77 said:


> Thank you, did you ever have problems with cables getting hit?


No, but I routed my cable unconventionally, using a piece of tubing affixed to the top tube with the stock dropper. It drove me crazy having it loose, and I'm trying to tame it, it would bind and effect the performance of the dropper, this lets it slide freely and cost about $3.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

If I went external I thought about doing it this way but not so much slack.









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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

The bikes did come with clips to route an internal dropper, but you can pick up similar ones at a bike shop, online, or maybe a hardware store. 

The Masons with the KS Supernatural also had a piece of plastic to keep the cable in check. I zip tied mine to the red collar on the seatpost, and it works great like that. I wasn't sure I'd keep the Supernatural, but it's worked fine for me. I still don't know why they'd include an external dropper on a frame with internal routing or why they'd spec a 150mm dropper when it'd cause many people to have to run the saddle jammed all the way down (like Mchmnd's bike above).


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## Mchmnd (Dec 26, 2016)

Yeah I used the included guide for a while, but it got funky and I was starting to get kinks so I had to go a different route. The 150 is too much for me too, by maybe half an inch. I’d get a new one, but I think I’m on the verge of getting FS bike. 

I’d be careful to leave enough slack, I actually had to go longer on mine when I went to the jones bars. If you go short and it tensions the line it will “drop” the post.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I am thinking about getting this dropper post because I am 6ft with a 31 inseam.









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## scrapmetal57 (Sep 18, 2012)

Looks like lots of cable slack up by the handlebars with the stock routing. Let me know how the dropper works out, I've been riding this bike for 3 years and it definitely needs a dropper.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Mchmnd said:


> Yeah I used the included guide for a while, but it got funky and I was starting to get kinks so I had to go a different route. The 150 is too much for me too, by maybe half an inch. I'd get a new one, but I think I'm on the verge of getting FS bike.
> 
> I'd be careful to leave enough slack, I actually had to go longer on mine when I went to the jones bars. If you go short and it tensions the line it will "drop" the post.


Getting rid of the quick release seatpost clamp might help make the cable routing easier. You don't really need quick release with a dropper.

The 150mm dropper is tricky on this bike (at least for this dropper). I'm 6'1", so it's worked out fine for me, but I'm at the upper limit of sizing for the large frame.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So my rear hub finally went bad. I can't do a warranty thing because I bought it in 2016. Looking at what's out there on the market it is cheaper to buy a new decent wheelset then buy a good Hub. So I am looking at these two rims one is the actual rim with and one is a little bit wider. Tryin to figure out if I should go wider one is 35mm inner diameter and the other is 30 like the rims that came with my bike. Diamondback says 30 pro closet says go 35. Thank you
https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-345-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-blue
https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-395-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-red


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## narcoleptic (Aug 21, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> So my rear hub finally went bad. I can't do a warranty thing because I bought it in 2016. Looking at what's out there on the market it is cheaper to buy a new decent wheelset then buy a good Hub. So I am looking at these two rims one is the actual rim with and one is a little bit wider. Tryin to figure out if I should go wider one is 35mm inner diameter and the other is 30 like the rims that came with my bike. Diamondback says 30 pro closet says go 35. Thank you
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-345-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-blue
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-395-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-red


Diamondback replaced my rear wheel when the hub went bad, with a 30mm Fratelli wheel. I then bought a set of Mercury X3 Plus wheels which are 35mm internal when the hub on the Fratelli went out. I've had the Mercury wheels with WTB Ranger 3.0 tires for the last three years, they've been great. Honestly I couldn't really tell the difference between the 30 and 35mm wheels, and since the ones you've linked are the same price its really up to you. I've not had a problem with rocks hitting the rim with the 3.0 tires. You may have an issue depending if you go with a narrower (maybe 2.4) tire. I have a 2.8 tire on a WTB Scraper 40mm wheel with no rock damage.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

narcoleptic said:


> Diamondback replaced my rear wheel when the hub went bad, with a 30mm Fratelli wheel. I then bought a set of Mercury X3 Plus wheels which are 35mm internal when the hub on the Fratelli went out. I've had the Mercury wheels with WTB Ranger 3.0 tires for the last three years, they've been great. Honestly I couldn't really tell the difference between the 30 and 35mm wheels, and since the ones you've linked are the same price its really up to you. I've not had a problem with rocks hitting the rim with the 3.0 tires. You may have an issue depending if you go with a narrower (maybe 2.4) tire. I have a 2.8 tire on a WTB Scraper 40mm wheel with no rock damage.


So you didn't have any problem with fitment? Then I Might go for the 35 then, I bought some WTB Trailblazers 2.8 tires and since my original wheels have started to go bad I am going to wait to get the new rims to install them. Hell these rims has lasted me a 123-pound weight loss. So when I got the bike I was about 390- 385. I bought it in 2016. Thank you.


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## narcoleptic (Aug 21, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> So you didn't have any problem with fitment? Then I Might go for the 35 then, I bought some WTB Trailblazers 2.8 tires and since my original wheels have started to go bad I am going to wait to get the new rims to install them. Hell these rims has lasted me a 123-pound weight loss. So when I got the bike I was about 390- 385. I bought it in 2016. Thank you.


No, even with the 3.0 tires there is about half-inch of chainstay and seatstay clearance.


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> So my rear hub finally went bad. I can't do a warranty thing because I bought it in 2016. Looking at what's out there on the market it is cheaper to buy a new decent wheelset then buy a good Hub. So I am looking at these two rims one is the actual rim with and one is a little bit wider. Tryin to figure out if I should go wider one is 35mm inner diameter and the other is 30 like the rims that came with my bike. Diamondback says 30 pro closet says go 35. Thank you
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-345-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-blue
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/spank-oozy-trail-395-aluminum-tubeless-27-5-wheelset-red


wow your original hub lasted this long?? good for you!


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

bd772 said:


> wow your original hub lasted this long?? good for you!


:lol: Yeah, those hubs were terrible. Mine lasted only a few months.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So I have new goodies coming in for my bike. Bought a new set of wheels. Sun Ringle Duroc 40's( cheaper than a good hub) and I got SLX 4 piston front and Rear Brakes. So I had to get another adaptor for the front break since it is a 203mm Rotor. I have been contemplating about putting a 203mm rear rotor in the rear. I was wondering does anybody know if it will fit. I know people will be like It is too much brakes but I am a big guy still pushing 300+ solid. Thank you


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> So I have new goodies coming in for my bike. Bought a new set of wheels. Sun Ringle Duroc 40's( cheaper than a good hub) and I got SLX 4 piston front and Rear Brakes. So I had to get another adaptor for the front break since it is a 203mm Rotor. I have been contemplating about putting a 203mm rear rotor in the rear. I was wondering does anybody know if it will fit. I know people will be like It is too much brakes but I am a big guy still pushing 300+ solid. Thank you


How did it work out for you? I've been wanting do get new wheels for my stock Mason Trail... been dealing with some knee pain and hoping that lightening the bike will help a bit.


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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

s0ckeyeus said:


> :lol: Yeah, those hubs were terrible. Mine lasted only a few months.


Same here. Still on the replacement hub, as it's been holding up so far. Good to see that others are still riding/enjoying the bike as well. I got the itch to do something with the bike though. What have you upgraded? mine is stock other than a bit longer stem and a carbon bar.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

bd772 said:


> How did it work out for you? I've been wanting do get new wheels for my stock Mason Trail... been dealing with some knee pain and hoping that lightening the bike will help a bit.


Wheels are coming today waiting on UPS. The brakes should be in by this weekend. I would check to see if your seat is the right hight. I was having problem with my crank coming loose but I put some blue loc Tite hopefully that fixes that. I think I am going to go for a shorter crank due to having a 31 inseam. I am going to go down to 170.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

bd772 said:


> Same here. Still on the replacement hub, as it's been holding up so far. Good to see that others are still riding/enjoying the bike as well. I got the itch to do something with the bike though. What have you upgraded? mine is stock other than a bit longer stem and a carbon bar.


I have add Ergon grips, PNW components ranger dropper post, Wolftooth Dropper lever. I upgraded to magura mt2's from the original brakes. But Now I am going Shimano SLX four piston back and front. Also going 203 rotors Back and Front. Currently it is 203 front and 180 back. WTB Koda seat, Wolf tooth seat post clamp. The Drive train I upgraded to Sram NX drive train 1x11 currently. But I am I am really thinking getting the BOX TWO prime 9 Drivetrain. I figure I can get the same range with less pushes of the button and it is durable why not. The Sun ringle Duroc 40's come today. Waiting on UPS! So I am go from a 30 inner Diameter wheel to a 36 inner Diameter wheel.

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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

The Wheels Are here yes! The brakes this weekend!









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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

I did the front tire and it was perfect now I can't the rear tire to seat. I am not sure if it is my pump it what. Grrrr!

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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

bd772 said:


> Same here. Still on the replacement hub, as it's been holding up so far. Good to see that others are still riding/enjoying the bike as well. I got the itch to do something with the bike though. What have you upgraded? mine is stock other than a bit longer stem and a carbon bar.


I have the 2016 Mason Comp and really haven't upgraded much. The replacement hub I got from Novatec really wasn't that bad, but the stock rims were way too big. I replaced with Bitex hubs and i40 WTB Scraper rims, but ruined the rear rim and went to a KOM Tough out back. I've been pretty happy with the wheels.

Other than that and the usual contact points, I just went 1x and added a wider range cassette,replaced the KS dropper (which croaked) with a OneUp 180mm dropper, and added a Rimpact in the rear. It's been a fun bike.


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## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

bd772 said:


> How did it work out for you? I've been wanting do get new wheels for my stock Mason Trail... been dealing with some knee pain and hoping that lightening the bike will help a bit.


Not likely. Check your saddle height and fore/aft position. It's likely your saddle is too low.


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So my bike came with 180 front and back. The back was with an adaptor. So was it a 160 post mount with a 180 adaptor? If so would I need an adaptor that fits a 160 post mount but for a 203 rotor? I am still interested in doing 203 front and back. Thank you


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

So on the last post about my brakes I poorly assumed that that my rear brake was 180mm without an adaptor. But it was 180 with an adaptor. So the original size was a 160mm post mount with an adaptor to fit a 180mm rotor. As usual things come in the mail at different times. The adapter came first still waiting on the 203mm rotor. So now I got the right adaptor for a 160mm post mount to fit a 203mm rotor. I had the old 203mm rotor from the front. I decided to Installed it on the rear wheel and put the new adaptor on and it to see if it  fits. It fits perfectly. So now I have major stopping power. So now I have 203mm rotors front and back. Can't wait for the new rotor to come in to finish braking in the brakes Yeaaaah. #stoppingpower. #shimanoslx4piston, #stoppingonadime #dontgrabtoomuchbrake
#keepmovingforward.









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## Rycan86 (Aug 2, 2017)

I swapped out my oem Shimano Deore brakes on my Mason Pro with Shimano Saints


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Rycan86 said:


> I swapped out my oem Shimano Deore brakes on my Mason Pro with Shimano Saints


Nice!


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

Does anybody know the reach numbers on a mason trail?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

My rear wheel has finally kicked the bucket. Now I have to decide on new wheel or new hub.

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## bd772 (Apr 6, 2015)

Daholla77 said:


> My rear wheel has finally kicked the bucket. Now I have to decide on new wheel or new hub.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


Aww shucks... how many miles? have you ever serviced the bearings?


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## Daholla77 (Jun 7, 2015)

bd772 said:


> Aww shucks... how many miles? have you ever serviced the bearings?


No and it has lasted me 4 years.

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## tjc4golf (Mar 5, 2010)

has anyone tried this as a mullet with a 29er wheel in front? if so, how'd it go?


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