# Review: Forward Components eBB for conventional BB shells



## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

(Note: wordy preliminary review...)









This joins Tr!ckstuff's Exzentriker as the only eccentric BBs that will fit a conventional BB shell.









The Forward Component eBB consists of a burly pair of heat treated stainless steel cups, and a rotating aluminium insert which has a set of enduro cartridge bearings pressed off center into them, and is fixed in place by 6 set screws. Rotating the insert allows you to adjust the chain-stay length by 15mm, which should allow you an unlimited choice of ratios by careful chain-ring-cog selection and/or the use of a half link. The installation tool for the cup is provided, and the eccentric insert adjustment needs a 2.5mm allen. Installation and adjustment was trouble free, but it takes more time than standard eBBs. The component has a nice raw finished with tight tolerances. In short, it is nicely made, and installs and works as described.









Compared to a standard external bearing cup, this unit is definitely heavier - 148g per cup compared to ~42g for a Shimano. Most of the weight is in the thick stainless steel cup, which provides space for the set screws, and rigidity for the eccentric adjustment. The BB shell should be faced for any external BB cup installation, but this is more important with this eBB due to the independent eccentric adjustments.

Another limitation is that you can only use it on 68mm shells, as the additional space required for the eccentric insert and locking mechanism uses up 5mm of additional space, which is what crank makers allow with spacers for 73mm BB shell compatibility. However, with the right crank, I was able to get it to fit a 73mm BB shell (more about that later).

The 6 setscrews used to lock the eccentric do not have to be very tight, and there is a warning that over torquing them may cause damage to the insert, especially near the thin side but the bearing. Because the installation tool is held in place by the same 6 setscrews, it is pretty easy to get a feel for how tight they need to be. If the tool will stay put installing the cup with a 16" headset wrench, then it's not going to move with the eccentric insert. And on the topic of warnings, Forward Components recommends the eccentric be only used in the "high" position (shaft above the center of the BB shell) so that there is more material in the eccentric to support the loads. This means you will always increase your BB height.









Once the cups are installed, the eccentrics are inserted (fully greased) and the crank inserted. All 12 setscrews are loosened (6 per side) and both eccentrics can be turned in unison by your fingers. When the correct chain tension is obtained, the drive side setscrews are snugged down. Then the non-drive side eccentric is adjusted to center it in the middle of the play, and it is snugged down. Pretty easy, and it works fine, but 12 setscrews does take a bit longer. I found that if a setscrew on the drive-side ends up aligned with the chain-stay, and due to the geometric peculiarities, it can be near impossible to access that setscrew. To finish snugging down the eccentric, I had to remove the crank (pretty easy really). However, I re-faced the BB shell a tiny bit (ie: one turn of the tool), and reinstalled the cups, and now all the setscrews are easily accessible with the crank installed.









Standard MTB cranks (104 BCD) need to have the granny ring mount shaved down to clear the larger BB gearing cup. Some road cranks, which have a larger BCD may clear without any modification. Forward Components emailed me that they were working on a tool to shave down the granny mounts so that a granny ring could be remounted with spacers. So I figured I'd wait for the tool. However, I didn't get my username for nothing, and being restless, I started looking at my 73mm BB shelled frame that needed a tensioner (IGH application). After measuring out a Shimano FC-M532 crank, I figured it would work if I completely remove the granny ring mounts. And the FC-M532 crank was pretty inexpensive.









Here is the crank mounted on a 73mm BB shell with the Forward Component's eBB. 3 spacers are supplied to allow the crank arms to clear the eccentric insert, minimum one per cup, and the 3rd allows for some chain line adjustment. This crank has been installed with no spacers, the shape of the spider was such that if I shave off the granny ring mount completely, it would clear the eBB cups. With one spacer on the non-drive side, I had the correct spacing for a 73mm BB shell. So far so good.

_Caveats_:

I had some reservations about corrosion (road salt when commuting), the eccentric insert is raw aluminium, and the set screws are steel. I liberally greased the inserts, and used anti-seize on the set screws. I don't expect any creak issues with this design, but that, and longevity will take time to determine.

By the nature of the design (spacers on the axle instead of on the cups), the bearings ride further inboard than on conventional external units. Some Shimano axles are taper walled, so by moving the bearing seat inboard, it sits on a thinner walled part of the hollow axle - how this affects longevity remains to be seen.

And as I said before, you'll probably have to shave off the granny ring mounts.

_Compared to the Exzentriker_:

I don't have one, but from what I've heard, they work fine. The main difference is price, the Exzentriker cost more that 2x. However, it is available in various colours, has a simple one screw adjustment, and is lighter. I almost bought one, but was balking at the price (bad exchange rate!), if Forward Components had waited longer to announce their eBB, I would probably be writing about both.

_Conclusions_:

BB are one of those things that you install and ignore, unless they cause problems. This one works fine so far, and provides chain tension adjustment, which means you can convert any hard-tail or URT bike to a SS or IGH without a dérailleur style tensioner. This one I can recommend.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Stupendous write-up. Nice job.


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Great. Loads of relevant detail, good pics and no hype. Thanks.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Yeah. What he said.

--Sparty


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

Velobike said:


> Great. Loads of relevant detail, good pics and no hype. Thanks.


+1 on that !


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## Caffeine Powered (Mar 31, 2005)

This just occurred to me. Unlike an EBB, the Bb cups are solidly treaded into both sides. If one BB cup is rotated the other rotates as well. With this system, would it be possible to have one side rotate without the other? In other words, let's say you rotate the drive side 15 degrees to obtain optimal chain tension. Is it easy to match the non-drive side the same 15 degrees of rotation? My concern would be that the spindle would no longer be parallel with the BB shell centerline. Thus the spindle axis would not be perpendicular to the bearing surfaces and would put pressure on the bearings and then there'd be problems. 

To that end, is there any reference markings on the cups other than the set screws to aid in that alignment?

I'm really curious because as soon as I have the extra money I'd like to get one to put in a bike I have.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

Caffeine Powered said:


> To that end, is there any reference markings on the cups other than the set screws to aid in that alignment?
> 
> I'm really curious because as soon as I have the extra money I'd like to get one to put in a bike I have.


The set screws are in the fixed "outer" part that screws into the BB shell, so they don't change position. Your reference would be the milled "scallops" on the circumference of the eccentric cup. 
The "Exzentriker" does have index marks for this purpose, but the best way is to set them up is by adjusting the drive side tension first (obviously you have to follow this adjustment with the non-drive side) and then set the final position by finding the null point equidistant from where you can feel a bit of resistance as you turn the eccentric one way and then the other. I use this method for the "Exzentriker" .

It's harder to explain than it is to do (for me at least  ) and it's really not any big deal, you don't have to do it that often.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Caffeine Powered said:


> This just occurred to me. Unlike an EBB, the Bb cups are solidly treaded into both sides. If one BB cup is rotated the other rotates as well. With this system, would it be possible to have one side rotate without the other? In other words, let's say you rotate the drive side 15 degrees to obtain optimal chain tension. Is it easy to match the non-drive side the same 15 degrees of rotation? My concern would be that the spindle would no longer be parallel with the BB shell centerline. Thus the spindle axis would not be perpendicular to the bearing surfaces and would put pressure on the bearings and then there'd be problems.
> 
> To that end, is there any reference markings on the cups other than the set screws to aid in that alignment?


There are no marks on the FC version. You set the chain tension by turning both together - they will bind if they get too far out of phase. Then you snug down the set screws on the drive side. The non-drive side will still be able to rotate a few degrees back and forth, and you just have to find the center of that play, either by marking the limits with a pen, or eyeballing the scallops. In practice it is pretty easy. You'll spend more time loosening and tightening the 12 set screws.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

Too bad there's no way to make the FC EBB work with a square taper crank.

Is there?

Thanks,
Sparty


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Sparticus said:


> Too bad there's no way to make the FC EBB work with a square taper crank.
> 
> Is there?


You'd have to make a 24mm shaft with a square taper and preload adjustment on it - and the Q-factor would be horrendous (unless you could find some retro non-low-profile square taper cranks...)

What you really want is one of these:








Unfortunately it never got produced.

I don't have any issues using the external bearing cranks, they work well.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

itsdoable said:


> ...
> 
> I don't have any issues using the external bearing cranks, they work well.


I would happily use an external bearing crank if only one was available in 195mm length.

Darn it. Thanks just the same.

--Sparty


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

Very interesting. Do you think this is as good of an option for custom bikes? Meaning designing a custom bike with the intention of using the FC product to tension the chain, over regular EBB's or Paragon dropouts?


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

Wish I Were Riding said:


> Very interesting. Do you think this is as good of an option for custom bikes? Meaning designing a custom bike with the intention of using the FC product to tension the chain, over regular EBB's or Paragon dropouts?


Not for me - in an ideal world a "standard" EBB or Paragon sliders would always be my choice for a custom SS.
However, both the Exzentriker and the Forward Components BB's give the possibility of using a frame that you already own and like without having to faff around with ugly, noisy and just in-the-way mech. hanger mounted tensioners (and without getting the welding gear out !) I'd rather use one than have track ends anyway..

They work, and work well IMHO - the only downsides seem to be slightly fiddly access for adjustment and limited crank choice.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Sparticus said:


> I would happily use an external bearing crank if only one was available in 195mm length.











They are kind of pricy though. I thought there was a German company making custom cranks too.



Wish I Were Riding said:


> ...Do you think this is as good of an option for custom bikes?...


No reason why you can't do it, but I'd think that you'd be better off with something that was not designed to retrofit into an exisiting frame. But people like things like the Eno Eccentric hub, enough to buy a new non-ss frame for SS use.


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## Wish I Were Riding (Jan 30, 2004)

itsdoable said:


> No reason why you can't do it, but I'd think that you'd be better off with something that was not designed to retrofit into an exisiting frame. But people like things like the Eno Eccentric hub, enough to buy a new non-ss frame for SS use.


That's kind of what I'm thinking about. I have Paragons, and they have worked fine. I don't like the look much. I have EBB's, and they are fine too. I wish they didn't add so much weight to the frame. I might have to just try the Eno some day like PeT did.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

*Thanks for that pic & info*



itsdoable said:


> They are kind of pricy though. I thought there was a German company making custom cranks too.
> 
> ...


In the past, Zinn's square taper custom length cranks were made by High Sierra Cycle Center, then labeled for Zinn. I own 3 sets of these cranks (in 195mm length) sans the Zinn label by going direct to HSCC (and saving hundreds of dollars in the process).

But alas, the cranks in your photo above are not offered on HSCC's site (although the square taper variety are still offered there). So either Zinn is making his own custom length cranks or HSCC has a non-compete agreement that has not expired or Zinn is sourcing these from someone else entirely.

Buying those cranks and the FC EBB would certainly be an expensive retrofit. Might as well buy a new custom frame.

Anyway, thanks again.

--Sparty


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## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

Sparticus said:


> I would happily use an external bearing crank if only one was available in 195mm length.
> 
> Darn it. Thanks just the same.
> 
> --Sparty


It would take some trickery, but you could get to 190 mm with this set-up. Replace the current bearings with ones that have a narrower ID (19 mm or 22 mm) and run a set of 3-piece BMX cranks. You might have to machine a tube spacer for the inside, as the stock ones likely won't fit.


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

Andy R said:


> The set screws are in the fixed "outer" part that screws into the BB shell, so they don't change position. Your reference would be the milled "scallops" on the circumference of the eccentric cup.
> The "Exzentriker" does have index marks for this purpose, but the best way is to set them up is by adjusting the drive side tension first (obviously you have to follow this adjustment with the non-drive side) and then set the final position by finding the null point equidistant from where you can feel a bit of resistance as you turn the eccentric one way and then the other. I use this method for the "Exzentriker" .
> 
> It's harder to explain than it is to do (for me at least  ) and it's really not any big deal, you don't have to do it that often.


One of my customers has stated that his Trickstuff Exzentriker requires you to remove the crank before readjusting. I am not sure if he means one crank arm, or both. Has this been your experience, or is this perhaps a unique situation based on specific component combinations?


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

forwardcomponents said:


> One of my customers has stated that his Trickstuff Exzentriker requires you to remove the crank before readjusting. I am not sure if he means one crank arm, or both. Has this been your experience, or is this perhaps a unique situation based on specific component combinations?


Well, presumably he means that it's a bit difficult to access the drive side eccentric cup in order to rotate it, as it's obstructed by the spider and chainring. There will be this same issue with the FC setup too presumably?

What the Exzentriker *really* needs to facilitate adjustment is a couple of notches or shallow blind holes on the periphary of each eccentric cup so that one could use a "C" spanner to adjust them - this C spanner need only be a light affair so you could easily carry it along with your normal trail tools. I keep meaning to modify mine and make the spanner but I just haven't got round to it yet, - I'll do it next time I strip it down....in the meantime I just rotate the cup with some slip-joint pliers (with duct tape protected jaws so as not to damage the finish). As long as you break the grip of the locking barrel nut (by loosening the allen screw and then tapping it back in) the eccentric rotates easily enough. If it doesn't then it's time to strip it and clean/regrease it.

Removing the crank for access?? Then how does one check the position, since you then have no chainring or chain in place either? Presumably by an endless trial and error process I suppose but not really practical. I don't think that particular cranks would make access more difficult - I'm using XT cranks and had to machine off the granny ring bosses for clearance anyway.

So, the Exzentriker isn't without its faults, and if your FC version had been available a year ago then I would probably have bought that instead. At the end of the day, the opinion seems to be that they both do what they were designed for:thumbsup: and with something like this the user always will have to put up with, and adapt to, a few little idiosyncrasies


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## twestis (Dec 18, 2007)

forwardcomponents said:


> One of my customers has stated that his Trickstuff Exzentriker requires you to remove the crank before readjusting. I am not sure if he means one crank arm, or both. Has this been your experience, or is this perhaps a unique situation based on specific component combinations?


You do not need to remove any of the crank arms to adjust it although it can be kind of tight to get hold of the Exzentriker on the drive side. The trick is to really get it released by loosens the fixing bolt AND makes sure the nut (silver thing on the pic) has released, it tends to get stuck... Then it moves very smooth and is easy to adjust.

I was a bit late there 

Interesting product from Forward Components and great review! :thumbsup:


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

twestis said:


> You do not need to remove any of the crank arms to adjust it although it can be kind of tight to get hold of the Exzentriker on the drive side. The trick is to really get it released by loosens the fixing bolt AND makes sure the nut (silver thing on the pic) has released, it tends to get stuck... Then it moves very smooth and is easy to adjust.
> 
> I was a bit late there
> 
> Interesting product from Forward Components and great review! :thumbsup:


Seems that we agree on the method required though :thumbsup:


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

Andy R said:


> Well, presumably he means that it's a bit difficult to access the drive side eccentric cup in order to rotate it, as it's obstructed by the spider and chainring. There will be this same issue with the FC setup too presumably?
> 
> What the Exzentriker *really* needs to facilitate adjustment is a couple of notches or shallow blind holes on the periphary of each eccentric cup so that one could use a "C" spanner to adjust them - this C spanner need only be a light affair so you could easily carry it along with your normal trail tools. I keep meaning to modify mine and make the spanner but I just haven't got round to it yet, - I'll do it next time I strip it down....in the meantime I just rotate the cup with some slip-joint pliers (with duct tape protected jaws so as not to damage the finish). As long as you break the grip of the locking barrel nut (by loosening the allen screw and then tapping it back in) the eccentric rotates easily enough. If it doesn't then it's time to strip it and clean/regrease it.
> 
> ...


Just like the Exzentriker, the drive side adjusting eccentric on the Forward Components EBB is more difficult to access due to the crank arm spider. Its an unavoidable situation. Low profile spiders are less of an issue, obviously. A tool to adjust the EBB would work well on the non drive side, but would be more tricky on the drive side due to the spider and the chainrings.


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

forwardcomponents said:


> Just like the Exzentriker, the drive side adjusting eccentric on the Forward Components EBB is more difficult to access due to the crank arm spider. Its an unavoidable situation. Low profile spiders are less of an issue, obviously. A tool to adjust the EBB would work well on the non drive side, but would be more tricky on the drive side due to the spider and the chainrings.


Just a suggestion - feel free to shoot me down in flames 

If, instead of the "scalloped" shape to the eccentric cup, it had six or eight "notches" (like an old type BB lock ring) would it not be possible to use a thin "C" spanner for adjustment, even on the drive side? It might need to be slightly cranked to clear the chainring.
This would be practical on a slightly modified Excentriker (one of these days I'll get round to it...)- I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well on your EBB.

Sorry for hijacking this thread, BTW....


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## soslow (Jan 22, 2006)

*Question for Forward Components*

Forward Components, when will you have your next batch finished?


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

soslow said:


> Forward Components, when will you have your next batch finished?


Two to three weeks is the expected timeline. I don't anticipate the delays that we experienced last time.


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## hellocook (Nov 5, 2006)

i understand the additional weight is 200g. how does this compare to the trickstuff solution?


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

hellocook said:


> i understand the additional weight is 200g. how does this compare to the trickstuff solution?


The Trickstuff Exzentriker will be the lighter of the two but I can't find any details of the weight, either on the website or in the installation leaflet.
I should have weighed it before installation I suppose, just out of curiosity....


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## twestis (Dec 18, 2007)

My Exzentriker weights 216g including all parts/both cups. Forward components is stated above to be 148g per cup which would give 296g vs 216g.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

This one should be in the IGH forum, but since this started here:

One big reason to use this eBB was to mount a Rohloff hub on my Haro Sonix without a tensioner (but it would be just as good as a SS). The Sonix is one of the few suspension frames that have a fixed BB to dropout distance, allowing tensionerless setups with SS and IGHs. It also has a 73mm BB shell, and it is recessed inside the concentric links:










The ID of the link is just shy of the Forward Components eBB cup, so to make the cup clear, I had to remove about 0.5mm from the base of the non-drive side cup.










An Exzentriker would also have to be modified for this install. The Drive side is not recessed, so that cup fits as is.

After installation, the cup looks like it actually belongs there:









Again, I'm using a FC-M532, which has an interface that can clear the larger cups without extra spacers, allowing this to be installed on a 73mm BB shell (FC only specs this eBB for a 68mm BB shell). The chain stays on this frame have lots of clearance around the cups to access the set screws, even if the setscrew lines up with the cs (unlike my previous frame).

I really do intend to install one of these on a simple 68mm shell frame, but these were much more interesting to do.

On another note, I recommend that you check the credentials of the mechanics tuning your suspension.








"...you need less rebound..."


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## winbert (Sep 22, 2005)

anthony.delorenzo said:


> It would take some trickery, but you could get to 190 mm with this set-up. Replace the current bearings with ones that have a narrower ID (19 mm or 22 mm) and run a set of 3-piece BMX cranks. You might have to machine a tube spacer for the inside, as the stock ones likely won't fit.


Excellent idea!:thumbsup: Sooooo, does anyone have something specific in mind for the narrower-ID bearings that Anthony suggested? I'd love to give this little beauty the ultimate test by converting my tandem to a single-speed! I could just run 180mm external-bearing stoker cranks, but would prefer to run 185 or 190mm Profile BMX cranks for extra leverage...

thanks,
winbert


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## ISuckAtRiding (Jul 7, 2006)

what grade stainless? guessing 17-4?


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

winbert said:


> Excellent idea!:thumbsup: Sooooo, does anyone have something specific in mind for the narrower-ID bearings that Anthony suggested? I'd love to give this little beauty the ultimate test by converting my tandem to a single-speed! I could just run 180mm external-bearing stoker cranks, but would prefer to run 185 or 190mm Profile BMX cranks for extra leverage...
> 
> thanks,
> winbert


Interesting idea. What is the OD of the spindle that you are considering? What crankset do you have in mind? Custom spacers have been made for FSA and Truvativ spindles, so BMX spindles can easily be accomodated.


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## winbert (Sep 22, 2005)

forwardcomponents said:


> What is the OD of the spindle that you are considering? What crankset do you have in mind?


19mm OD ti BMX spindle, Profile Racing BMX Race crank arms w/ FSA spiders - both 4-bolt, one for double-ring (no granny mounts) and one for triple-ring set-up. Currently mounted w/ Niner bio-centric EBB which, similar to yours, turns a 68mm BB shell into a 73mm.

thanks,
winbert


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

winbert said:


> 19mm OD ti BMX spindle, Profile Racing BMX Race crank arms w/ FSA spiders - both 4-bolt, one for double-ring (no granny mounts) and one for triple-ring set-up. Currently mounted w/ Niner bio-centric EBB which, similar to yours, turns a 68mm BB shell into a 73mm.
> 
> thanks,
> winbert


The FC EBB only works with standard threaded shells using 24x1.37 threads. It will not fit with the Niner frame's oversized BB shell. Are you suggesting that the FC EBB will be installed into the Niner EBB?

The FC EBB does not turn a 68mm shell into a 73mm BB shell. It requires a 68mm BB shell, but is not generally compatible with a 73mm BB shell.


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## winbert (Sep 22, 2005)

forwardcomponents said:


> Are you suggesting that the FC EBB will be installed into the Niner EBB?


Nope, I would be mounting the FC EBB on a standard 68mm BB shell (either on a single bike or on the rear of a tandem). Just letting you know how the Profile BMX cranks are currently mounted (e.g., BB shell width accommodated by spindle length).



forwardcomponents said:


> The FC EBB does not turn a 68mm shell into a 73mm BB shell. It requires a 68mm BB shell, but is not generally compatible with a 73mm BB shell.


Sorry, poor choice of words on my part. It's my understanding that with the FC EBB you'd run external-bearing cranks arms/spindle without the spacers req'd for a 68mm shell (e.g., the setup you would use for a 73mm BB shell). Is that correct?

thanks,
winbert


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

winbert said:


> Nope, I would be mounting the FC EBB on a standard 68mm BB shell (either on a single bike or on the rear of a tandem). Just letting you know how the Profile BMX cranks are currently mounted (e.g., BB shell width accommodated by spindle length).
> 
> Sorry, poor choice of words on my part. It's my understanding that with the FC EBB you'd run external-bearing cranks arms/spindle without the spacers req'd for a 68mm shell (e.g., the setup you would use for a 73mm BB shell). Is that correct?
> 
> ...


Correct. A 73mm bottom bracket shell would leave insufficient space on the spindle to attach most crank arms. It has worked with one particular crankset, but that is the exception to the rule.

So all you really need is a pair of spacers to fit between the 19mm or 22mm spindle OD, and the 24mm bearing ID. Assuming that there are no features on the crankarm to interfere with the EBB cups, you should be fine.


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## Alias Pauly (Aug 15, 2008)

Forward Components, I have a question about the new road version of the EBB. It says on the blog that it is significantly thinner than the MTB version, how much thinner? Is it comparible to, or the same as a shimano BB cup?

I ask as I'm curious if this road EBB could then be used on a 68mm BB shell with a MTB crank with the usual 5mm of spacers between the frame and cup? Could it then also be used with a 73mm BB frame without spacers? If so, it would effectively render the MTB version obsolete, as the road version would be lighter (I presume) and more versatile.

Am I close to the mark or way off? Interested to know, as one of these would finish off my single speed project nicely, although I would have to buy a new round chain ring. Much difference in weight, any reason why it wouldn't be suitable for MTB use?

Thanks,
Paul


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

Alias Pauly said:


> Forward Components, I have a question about the new road version of the EBB. It says on the blog that it is significantly thinner than the MTB version, how much thinner? Is it comparible to, or the same as a shimano BB cup?
> 
> I ask as I'm curious if this road EBB could then be used on a 68mm BB shell with a MTB crank with the usual 5mm of spacers between the frame and cup? Could it then also be used with a 73mm BB frame without spacers? If so, it would effectively render the MTB version obsolete, as the road version would be lighter (I presume) and more versatile.
> 
> ...


The road version is 2.5mm thinner on each side. It is currently being tested off road, on an _unmodified _XT crankset. This configuration will work on 68mm bottom brackets with unmodified cranksets, and on 73mm bottom brackets that have been modified (granny mounts removed).

The website has not yet been updated to reflect this development, as it is still under review. Manufacturing has been suspended temporarily until a decision can be made as to whether to maintain separate road and MTB versions, or produce one universal version for road and MTB.

We expect to decide very soon, and it looks like the universal version will be the choice.

There is also a new tool that allows you to align the bearings so that they are accurately in phase. This alignment is determined by a precise mechanical alignment, rather than the visual method currently in use.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

3/23/2010: I purchased a FC EBB only to find out that my old frame has a stress fracture. The workmanship and manufacturing on these things is awesome. If anyone is interested, please let me know- it's available for sale. Full set with spacers and all. 

UPDATE- SOLD


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## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

I'm halfway through installing my FC EBB. Turns out that mine were shipped without any spacers or o-rings. I was going thorugh the instructions...:

2. Install 2 MTB spacer rings onto spindle (Spacer rings are for MTB application only, road installations do not require spacer rings. All other instructions apply to both road and MTB applications). 
Shimano standard MTB offset distances require two spacers on the drive side. Slide spacers all the way up against the inside face of the drive side crank arm. Counterbored features of the spacer must rings face inwards, towards the bottom bracket. Install the two supplied 22mm x 1.0mm o-rings in the counterbore space between the two spacer rings. The o-rings will ensure that the grany ring mounts of MTB cranks do not contact the face of the EBB.

..and I found that I didn't have the two 1mm O - rings. FC promptly sent me two 0-rings and then I found that the 2 'mtb spacer rings' were not the standard BB rings that come with every BB. So I realised there were more bits that hadn't been sent,
So now I need these two other spacer rings and I can't find the dimensions of what these should be. No response from FC yet, it's been dragging on for too long. I've paid to have the granny ring bolts ground down and now realised that shouldn't have been nessacery if I'd had the rings.


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

Hud said:


> I'm halfway through installing my FC EBB. Turns out that mine were shipped without any spacers or o-rings. I was going thorugh the instructions...:
> 
> 2. Install 2 MTB spacer rings onto spindle (Spacer rings are for MTB application only, road installations do not require spacer rings. All other instructions apply to both road and MTB applications).
> Shimano standard MTB offset distances require two spacers on the drive side. Slide spacers all the way up against the inside face of the drive side crank arm. Counterbored features of the spacer must rings face inwards, towards the bottom bracket. Install the two supplied 22mm x 1.0mm o-rings in the counterbore space between the two spacer rings. The o-rings will ensure that the grany ring mounts of MTB cranks do not contact the face of the EBB.
> ...


The instructions are very detailed and describe all the parts as well as the process. Modifying cranksets is not necessary. You should have contacted Forward Components before modifying the crankset.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Hud said:


> ..and I found that I didn't have the two 1mm O - rings. FC promptly sent me two 0-rings and then I found that the 2 'mtb spacer rings' were not the standard BB rings that come with every BB.


Are you sure you ordered the MTB EBB and not the Road EBB?


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## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

Yes I ordered the mtb EBB. Look I'm not that fussed about the crankset. The trouble was the extra bits didn't arrive and there was no parts list to check everthing off against so I've been muddling through the assembly process.
Forwardcomponents I just got your email reply and I'm not sure what happened to my email I sent.
Anyway I don;t want to make this an attack, I'm just a bit frustrated. The EBB is a great piece of kit, I just need to get the spacer rings and I'll be sorted.


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

Hud said:


> Yes I ordered the mtb EBB. Look I'm not that fussed about the crankset. The trouble was the extra bits didn't arrive and there was no parts list to check everthing off against so I've been muddling through the assembly process.
> Forwardcomponents I just got your email reply and I'm not sure what happened to my email I sent.
> Anyway I don;t want to make this an attack, I'm just a bit frustrated. The EBB is a great piece of kit, I just need to get the spacer rings and I'll be sorted.


Please review your Paypal invoice. You ordered the road EBB which does not come with an MTB spacer kit.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

I accidentally ordered the Road kit instead of the MTB kit as well on my last conversion. It's pretty easy to do, and I was a bit rushed when I was on thier website. The website is clear, but you have to look around and read it.


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## Hud (Jun 22, 2004)

itsdoable said:


> I accidentally ordered the Road kit instead of the MTB kit as well on my last conversion. It's pretty easy to do, and I was a bit rushed when I was on thier website. The website is clear, but you have to look around and read it.


I'm glad it wasn't just me then.
Sincere apologies to Eric and Forward Components.
I take back all my criticism.

Now I'm off to hide under a rock...


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Don't hide under it Hud, ride over it.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Does anyone know if the FC EBB uses the black plastic shim/spacer for the bearings like Shimano uses? Or are the bearings like the Enduro ones, where the BB spindle rests directly on it?

Has anyone upgraded the FC EBB bearings to Enduro bearings yet? Any issues?


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## nonfortuna (Aug 16, 2009)

I have one; the spindle sits directly on the bearings, which I believe are Enduro per FC spec.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

nonfortuna said:


> I have one; the spindle sits directly on the bearings, which I believe are Enduro per FC spec.


I thought I'd read that as well, but the FC site says "_The bearings are standard Shimano Hollowtech II replacement bearings by KML_". Maybe they've changed bearings? It also looks in the pictures on the site, that the spacers seat inside the bearing.

http://forwardcomponents.blogspot.com/


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## nonfortuna (Aug 16, 2009)

It does appear as though the design has changed slightly. I have the 1st gen road version, from before there was a "Universal" design. It lacks the spacers you noted on the website.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

The initial version used Enduro cartridges with no shims.

The current version used standard cartridges with shims, similar to Shimano. You can still replace them with the Enduro bearings.

I have both.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both systems. 

One of the drawbacks of cartridge bearings in this environment, is that sometime one will seize early on - it has to do with a combination of pressurised water, single lip seals, 60% fill grease packing, carbon steel races, etc... If one seizes, the crank shaft will friction spin on the ID race. Shimano uses a plastic shim that is sacrificial, so you only have to replace the cartridge and the shim. If your crank shaft is aluminium, with the enduro, the aluminium shaft will spin on carbon steel, and with wear the shaft, which is not replaceable. Of course one of the things enduro does is pack the bearing ~100% fill with grease, which goes a long ways to preventing a cartridge seizure.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

itsdoable said:


> The initial version used Enduro cartridges with no shims.
> 
> The current version used standard cartridges with shims, similar to Shimano. You can still replace them with the Enduro bearings.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much, that's great information. I've always wondered why Shimano chose to use a plastic shim.

When using the Enduro bearings, did you have any issues getting the second seal in place? Did it seat nicely into the EBB? Do you think the Enduro's inner race could score the crank's spindle if the bearings aren't lined up exactly (which could happen with an EBB)?

Do anyone know why FC moved from the Enduro bearings to the KML bearings?


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

bad mechanic said:


> When using the Enduro bearings, did you have any issues getting the second seal in place? Did it seat nicely into the EBB? Do you think the Enduro's inner race could score the crank's spindle if the bearings aren't lined up exactly (which could happen with an EBB)?


I'm still running square taper cartridge BBs on many of my bikes, so my experience with external BBs is limited. But we do have many in the group using them, and we've had a few early seizures, some running for a many years - in fact some of the longest lived cartridges were the opposite pair to one that seized early. And a few replaced due to regular wear and tear (shimano, truvativ, FSA). We have not had any enduro's seize yet, so I've not seen what damage they can do to the crank shaft. The enduros have all installed fine with their instructions. I have not needed to change the cartridges in any of the FC eBB's yet.



bad mechanic said:


> Do anyone know why FC moved from the Enduro bearings to the KML bearings?


Best to ask Eric @ FC himself, but considering that they seem to do a fair bit of testing, I'm guessing that they held up fine, cost less, & are easier to get. Anything that keeps the price reasonable is fine with me.


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## neusaab (Mar 22, 2006)

Hey Forward Components are you going to answer my emails? I'm thinking about buying your product but at this point I'm a little nervous about customer service.


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

neusaab said:


> Hey Forward Components are you going to answer my emails? I'm thinking about buying your product but at this point I'm a little nervous about customer service.


I always answer emails. I have not received any from somebody identifying themselves as neusaab. PM me.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

forwardcomponents said:


> I always answer emails.


This.

He patiently answered all of my inane and pedantic questions stretched out over many emails before I finally bought one.


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## farmerfrederico (Nov 8, 2007)

Any chance this would work on a 100mm BB on the aluminum 907 fatty frame with a Suryl Mr. Whirly Crankset?

Thanks.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I think you'd have a problem as the chainrings on a Mr. Whirly attach via the granny ring mounts.


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## neusaab (Mar 22, 2006)

*Can anyone lend me the installation tool?*

I got the Universal BB from a friend but don't have the install tool. Of course I'll gladly pay your shipping if you could send it my way. Thanks.


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## reyesjames (May 2, 2009)

question: to use a ecc bb you have to have a oversized BB ? 73mm ??


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## xced (Jun 9, 2007)

is a truvativ firex gxp compatible?


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## veloreality (May 10, 2009)

reyesjames said:


> question: to use a ecc bb you have to have a oversized BB ? 73mm ??


no. 


xced said:


> is a truvativ firex gxp compatible?


yes.


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## vindiggitydog (Aug 6, 2008)

Sparticus said:


> " one was available in 195mm length".
> 
> Damn Sparty, I know you are from the PNW.......are you a sasquatch on an SS with those 195mm cranks?????


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## mini73 (Jun 20, 2010)

Thinking aobut getting for my SS. Planning on getting some used XTR cranks. I think they are the FC-M950 180 mm ones. Anyone have ideas if this will work with the FC EBB? Here is a pic of the was I'm thinking of buying


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

mini73 said:


> Thinking aobut getting for my SS. Planning on getting some used XTR cranks. I think they are the FC-M950 180 mm ones. Anyone have ideas if this will work with the FC EBB? Here is a pic of the was I'm thinking of buying


It will not. The FC EBB requires a crankset with an integrated axle like the Shimano Hollowtech II.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

mini73, XTR 950s run on cartridge BB (integrated axle, bearings and case unit, with most of it, including the bearings, located inside of a frame's BB shell), whereas EBB kits, including the one by Forward Components, are designed to work with external bearing cranksets. It's not going to work.


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## mini73 (Jun 20, 2010)

thanks for the replies. I figured it out that they would not work once I researched it some more. Good thing I did not buy them! Now just got to figure out which route to go. Going to get a crank set that I can use the this ebb with. Suggestions?


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

mini73 said:


> Going to get a crank set that I can use the this ebb with. Suggestions?


Yes, talk to crazy8, he's a member on here, and buy one of his ceramic coated, modified XTR m960 cranks. They are light, durable, and beautiful. You can also ask 1SPD and ancient rascal how they like theirs.

Here's mine:


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## mini73 (Jun 20, 2010)

I like those and would like to get some XTR's but right now they are out of my price range since I just got finished buying disc's and a new carbon fork for the bike! I have seen a Truvativ stylo, 175mm for a good price. I think this will work with the FC ebb. Right? If so, i'm going to go with it for now until I get more funds up.


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## red5jedi (Feb 22, 2006)

*Stumpjumper Expert Carbon 29*

I have a 2010 Stumpjumper Expert Carbon 29 that has a "Custom Shimano BB-91, OS, press-in bearing" and I have converted it to SS and would like to use a EBB for chain tensioning but does anyone make one?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

A Forward Components EBB should work. The other option would be an ENO Eccentric Hub (but you'd have to rebuild your wheel).


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

alshead said:


> A Forward Components EBB should work. The other option would be an ENO Eccentric Hub (but you'd have to rebuild your wheel).


there are no threads in the BB shell on that Specialized frame, so the FC EBB won't work.


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## Andrew.reid (Sep 3, 2010)

I have a set of Race face Deus XC cranks i would like to use. will they work with the FC EBB?


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## pcoady (Feb 23, 2007)

Yes, I just installed that exact setup on Tuesday (raceface dues xc). I lopped off the granny gear mounts with a dremel tool, but after receiving it, I think the clearance would have been ok. 

Quick and easy install. Very well made component in my opinion. Limited miles on it so far. Sure is nice to get ride of the singleator.


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## rasse1977 (May 16, 2008)

pcoady said:


> Quick and easy install.


I guess that since you had to remove the granny mounts you have a 73 mm BB...? Did you just mount the new cups with no spacers or...?

Maybe you could post a pic...?


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## pcoady (Feb 23, 2007)

rasse1977 said:


> I guess that since you had to remove the granny mounts you have a 73 mm BB...? Did you just mount the new cups with no spacers or...?
> 
> Maybe you could post a pic...?


I removed the granny mounts before the FC EBB came. Looking at it now, I'm pretty sure I could have left them on. I've got 68mm shell and used both the supplied MTB spacers on drive side.


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## Mike A. (Aug 16, 2010)

I understand that with the FORWARD Component, you still have to fuss with chain length AND possibly still have to use a HALF LINK? I'm looking at this vs. the White Industries hub. I want reliability and safety. THOUGHTS? I am converting a 98 Kona Cinder Cone steel frame.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Mike A. said:


> I want reliability and safety.


And simplicity.

I reckon that with an eccentric hub one also needs an eccentric disk brake adapter? And this factors into lowering overall simplicity of drivetrain setup and adjustment.


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## Mike A. (Aug 16, 2010)

ok, what if i converted to rear disc...then no brake adjustment would be required if i went eccentric hub or had a bike builder torch the frame and convert the vert drops to horizontal...right? sounds not so simple...just trying to toy with ideas here. I read on the forward website that you might still need a half link...which is something i want to avoid...


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

The fc ebb definitely has a smaller adjustment range and you MIGHT half to use a half link, but it is definitely safe and reliable


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mike A. said:


> ok, what if i converted to rear disc...then no brake adjustment would be required if i went eccentric hub


nope, it requires an extra adapter with its own eccentric mounts like J said


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## Mike A. (Aug 16, 2010)

...hmm - what if i had a frame builder convert to horizontal drops (Paul Components)...would the disc convert alleviate the need for any funky brake adjustments when you moved the wheel? i dont think so...but i am a newbie to this.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Mike A. said:


> ...hmm - what if i had a frame builder convert to horizontal drops (Paul Components)...would the disc convert alleviate the need for any funky brake adjustments when you moved the wheel? i dont think so...but i am a newbie to this.


horizontal drops need disc adjustments, but simple ones not funky one


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## Andy R (Nov 26, 2008)

Mike A. said:


> I understand that with the FORWARD Component, you still have to fuss with chain length AND possibly still have to use a HALF LINK? I'm looking at this vs. the White Industries hub. I want reliability and safety. THOUGHTS? I am converting a 98 Kona Cinder Cone steel frame.


It's not something worth worrying about - you have to "fuss" with chain length (ie shorten the chain to the correct length) with any singlespeed, so how much harder is it to do just because you might need to use a link-and-a-half and two master links compared to using just one master link? It might take an extra 30 seconds of your time (maybe).
Safety (and reliability) isn't an issue as any chain is no stronger than its weakest link anyway (and the master link is no weaker than any other).

I have a "normal" Phil Wood EBB on one of my bikes but I still use a link-and-a-half in the chain to get the correct tension with the eccentric where I want it to be (at about the 9 o'clock position).


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Mike A. said:


> I understand that with the FORWARD Component, you still have to fuss with chain length AND possibly still have to use a HALF LINK? I'm looking at this vs. the White Industries hub. I want reliability and safety. THOUGHTS? I am converting a 98 Kona Cinder Cone steel frame.


The Eno might require a half link as well, but provided you use the proper half link and master links, it will be as strong as the rest of the chain. The FC EBB, Eno, and the other tensioning systems you mentioned are all equally safe.

That said, just buy the FC EBB. It's perfectly safe, and once it's set up, you can forget about it, and it's incredibly convenient since you can still use a QR on the rear if you want, don't need to adjust the rear brake, and you never have to worry about retentioning your chain after removing your rear wheel.


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## Sparticus (Dec 28, 1999)

bad mechanic said:


> The Eno might require a half link as well, but provided you use the proper half link and master links, it will be as strong as the rest of the chain. The FC EBB, Eno, and the other tensioning systems you mentioned are all equally safe.
> 
> That said, just buy the FC EBB. It's perfectly safe, and once it's set up, you can forget about it, and it's incredibly convenient since you can still use a QR on the rear if you want, don't need to adjust the rear brake, and you never have to worry about retentioning your chain after removing your rear wheel.


^^^ this.

Listen to this guy. He's not really a bad mechanic, he just plays one on TV.

--sParty


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Mike A. said:


> I understand that with the FORWARD Component, you still have to fuss with chain length AND possibly still have to use a HALF LINK? I'm looking at this vs. the White Industries hub. I want reliability and safety. THOUGHTS? I am converting a 98 Kona Cinder Cone steel frame.





Mike A. said:


> ok, what if i converted to rear disc...then no brake adjustment would be required if i went eccentric hub or had a bike builder torch the frame and convert the vert drops to horizontal...right? sounds not so simple...just trying to toy with ideas here. I read on the forward website that you might still need a half link...which is something i want to avoid...


If you are careful with the selection of cog and chainring, you will not need a 1/2 link with the FC eBB. If you are trying to use some existing cogs or chain rings, you may need a 1/2 link, they only cost ~$2 so they should not be an issue. There are a lot more fiddly things with a conversion than a 1/2 link.

Both the FC eBB and the WI ENO eccentric hub are reliable. If you like to change gear ratios a lot, then the Eno may be easier, depending on how anal you are about the brakes. But then, if you like to change gear ratios a lot, maybe you should be riding a geared bike...

Converting a frame to track mounts (horizontal mounts) is clean and nice, and if you get the disk mounts that allow rotational adjustment on the caliper, it can be placed at exactly 12:00 such that you can move the wheel anywhere in the slot and still have adequate braking ie: no brake adjustment necessary.

The nice thing about the FC eBB is, if you have an external BB crank, you are ready to go. Plus cogs & SS specific chain ring (which are advisable)

With the Eno Eccentric, you need the entire wheel built up on the hub, plus a freewheel (+ chainring) so it become more expensive.

With track mounts, you should use a bolt on hub (new wheel) plus cogs or freewheel, and chain ring. Plus the frame work.

You can see why people like the FC eBB, it a quick simple conversion that works as advertised.


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## one piece crank (Sep 29, 2008)

itsdoable said:


> BB are one of those things that you install and ignore, unless they cause problems. This one works fine so far, and provides chain tension adjustment, which means you can convert any hard-tail or URT bike to a SS or IGH without a dérailleur style tensioner. This one I can recommend.


Can you tell me the resulting chain line with this set-up?

Thanks,
Tom P.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

one piece crank said:


> Can you tell me the resulting chain line with this set-up?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom P.


chainline should remain the same as with the original bottom bracket, i,e. 50mm


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## wolfy (Dec 21, 2004)

*73mm + Stylo*

I got one of these and started reading the directions and noticed the non-compatibility issue with the 73mm BB.

Question #1: is there a workaround that doesn't involve cutting my frame?

Question #2: since they're on back order, anyone want to buy mine?

-M


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

wolfy said:


> I got one of these and started reading the directions and noticed the non-compatibility issue with the 73mm BB.
> 
> Question #1: is there a workaround that doesn't involve cutting my frame?
> 
> ...


#1 - Yes, cut the granny mounts off your crankset.

#2 - Buy your FC EBB you mean?


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## wolfy (Dec 21, 2004)

So it's the granny mounts hitting the EBB shell is the only problem with the 73 mm shells?

-M


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Yup.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

wolfy said:


> ...is there a workaround that doesn't involve cutting my frame?


The original review post (from 2009) was installed on a 73mm BB shell using the 1st version of FC's eBB, which only worked with a handful of cranks (on a 73mm shell). The current version is lower in profile, and just requires the granny ring mounts removed, as previously mentioned.


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## rasse1977 (May 16, 2008)

itsdoable said:


> The current version is lower in profile, and just requires the granny ring mounts removed, as previously mentioned.


On my M970 cranks I removed the granny mounts and a few mm of the spider and now it fits perfectly.

The EBB worked well for the first 2 rides then slipped for the next 2-3 rides. I've found that the set screws need to be pretty tight and I haven't had any issues for the past month.


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## FirstStateCamber (Jul 4, 2006)

FC still in biz? Email on their site no worky? Sent him a PM...


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

They're in the middle of producing a new version of their EBB, and they expect it sometime this summer.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

*Any update?*



bad mechanic said:


> They're in the middle of producing a new version of their EBB, and they expect it sometime this summer.


Would really like to try their product


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## p nut (Apr 19, 2007)

I'd like to see their new product as well.


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## wrhxc (Jan 25, 2010)

bad mechanic said:


> They're in the middle of producing a new version of their EBB, and they expect it sometime this summer.


Any updates on their EBB? The website is down.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

Stick a fork in it... they're done. It could have been an accident, but he hasn't just stopped paying for hosting he has also let the domain name registration expire which means he doesn't think he'll be needing that website again


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

he is still lurking, and wondering too on what happened.

http://forums.mtbr.com/member.php?u=415456

his last post regarding EBBs was April.

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/phil-wood-philcentric-ebb-standard-shells-661690-3.html#post7926239

i think its too bad if it was cut short. not many businesses like this with competitive quality and value.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

Who knows. Life might have got in the way.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

boomn said:


> Stick a fork in it... they're done.


How do you know he's done?


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

bad mechanic said:


> How do you know he's done?


I didn't say I knew for sure and I'm not saying he won't ever come back in the distant future, but not updating the website for a very long time and then deciding not to pay to renew the domain name (giving up his right to that address)... well that just doesn't say much good about business plans to me


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

There may even be a business name change for them soon.


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## boomn (Jul 6, 2007)

I must add that I will be very happy to be proven wrong. I've been wanting one for myself for a while now


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## Guest (Oct 2, 2011)

Write and ask him.


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## p nut (Apr 19, 2007)

There are too many good options out there now for this to matter any more (PF30 adapter, new frame, eno, etc). I also tried to get on the site a few days ago only to see it doesn't exist anymore. Oh well.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Well, it's confirmed. He's closed up shop.


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## Guest (Oct 5, 2011)

That sucks. I don't like not having product support on something I just bought.


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## waterxracer585 (Apr 18, 2006)

BEER is still around! BEER Components


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## zaskaranddriver (Oct 14, 2009)

*I wouldn't sweat it*



miwuksurfer said:


> That sucks. I don't like not having product support on something I just bought.


The FC EBB is such high quality kit, I wonder if you'll ever even need product support.


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## FirstStateCamber (Jul 4, 2006)

This is why i went with a ENO ecc hub, super simple and very effective. Plus I didnt want to cut the granny bosses off my carbon Noir crank...


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## squak (Feb 13, 2006)

*FC EBB Help*

Apparently Forward Components is done; too bad, the FC EBB is a great product. I have an FC EBB (the universal version) that has worked really well on my single speed cyclocross bike (68mm BB shell and Shimano Ultegra 6700 crankset). I was thinking about moving it to a mountain bike (73mm BB shell and Shimano mtb crankset), but don't have the spacer kit that I think is required for use with mtb cranks. If I can't get the mtb spacer kit from Forward Components (sent them an email and waiting to hear back) is there a suitable alternative that I might find at the local bike shop or elsewhere? Anything else I need to consider before I move the FC EBB from a cyclocross frame/road cranks to a mtb frame/mtb cranks?

Thanks.


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## FirstStateCamber (Jul 4, 2006)

I've said it once before, get a white ind. eno eccentric rear hub and relace your rear wheel! Over cost is about the same or less and you can run a std BB and and crank that fits! I did this and it works awesome, adjustment is simple an fast even on the trail! No crank to remove!!! No crank chainring bosses to cut! I got tired of waiting on FC and went this route and will do it again on future builds!!!


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

squak said:


> Apparently Forward Components is done; too bad, the FC EBB is a great product. I have an FC EBB (the universal version) that has worked really well on my single speed cyclocross bike (68mm BB shell and Shimano Ultegra 6700 crankset). I was thinking about moving it to a mountain bike (73mm BB shell and Shimano mtb crankset), but don't have the spacer kit that I think is required for use with mtb cranks. If I can't get the mtb spacer kit from Forward Components (sent them an email and waiting to hear back) is there a suitable alternative that I might find at the local bike shop or elsewhere? Anything else I need to consider before I move the FC EBB from a cyclocross frame/road cranks to a mtb frame/mtb cranks?
> 
> Thanks.


I thought the spacers were only required on the 68mm BB shell setups, and not for the 73mm shell.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

FirstStateCamber said:


> I've said it once before, get a white ind. eno eccentric rear hub and relace your rear wheel! Over cost is about the same or less and you can run a std BB and and crank that fits! I did this and it works awesome, adjustment is simple an fast even on the trail! No crank to remove!!! No crank chainring bosses to cut! I got tired of waiting on FC and went this route and will do it again on future builds!!!


+1. I've even considered getting a custom frame built up with std vertical dropouts, std bottom bracket & adjustable brake mounts just so I can use the Eno hub. It's gotta be the most fool proof way to go SS.


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## J. Random Psycho (Apr 20, 2008)

Stevob,
how is an ENO eccentric hub better than sliding dropouts like ones Paragon does?

With ENO eccentric hub, you'll want to also run the eccentric caliper adapter (I'm running one on my Transition Bank which has eccentric dropouts). And a freewheel, which constrains your choice of chainline, and closes the option to run some derailer-based gears with the same wheel.


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## justilew (Aug 6, 2004)

There is a used Forward Component eBB listed here: Forward Components Eccentric Bottom Bracket (No More Chain Tensioner) | eBay


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