# 1up Quick Rack PLUS Addon Security



## big0mike (Jun 11, 2010)

Has anyone come up with or found an ingenious solution to securing your Addon rack to your 1up Quick Rack? I'm guessing not since I've looked through a little bit of this forum and seems no beautiful solution has been found.

I've got the newest 1up and it has a lock that blocks access to the allen head bolt to loosen the whole rack. Just from the looks of it I'm guessing it would take little effort to use a hammer to break off the lock but it might deter most thieves.

But, there is no way to secure the addon to the quick rack itself. Until I come up with something I'll likely just secure everything with a long cable like I did when locking my bike to the old Thule except I'll route to secure the rack just as much as the bike itself.

Or maybe a small cable or U lock.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

Somebody had a set up with a U-lock that went from the hitch to the main part of the main rack. Locked like it fit perfectly.

The security pins on the 1Up rack are not the standard security bolts. The pin in the center is larger so regular tools won't fit.

J.


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## big0mike (Jun 11, 2010)

I found something similar while Googling the topic.

Not sure what you are saying about the "security pins." I think you may be trying to describe the special allen head screw with the hole in it but not sure...


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

big0mike said:


> I found something similar while Googling the topic.
> 
> Not sure what you are saying about the "security pins." I think you may be trying to describe the special allen head screw with the hole in it but not sure...


Yes. In other words, the security allen screws are not industry standard so tools out there are not supposed to work in the 1Up Rack. Theoretically, higher security.

I've had one since they first came out with three add on kids and now about 20K+ miles on it. I've never worried about the rack being stolen.


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## big0mike (Jun 11, 2010)

That's good to know it's not a standard "hex with a hole" bolt but I'm still worried about it being swiped.


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## RancidSLP (Nov 6, 2008)

I use a small ulock to attach the rack to the hitch. Then if I want to lock the bike up, I use a long cable to wrap it around the bike and lock it using the ulock to the car.


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## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

What if you were to drill a hole through the two plates that connect the add on to the quick rack? Then maybe find a padlock that was long enough to fit through that hole? I just ordered my add on so I'll be doing some additional research on how to secure this.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

cycljunkie said:


> What if you were to drill a hole through the two plates that connect the add on to the quick rack? Then maybe find a padlock that was long enough to fit through that hole? I just ordered my add on so I'll be doing some additional research on how to secure this.


Just get a long shackle padlock and drop it over the bars where the add on meets the prior rack/add on. If you have more than one add on, just get keyed alike locks and one for each add on.

Model No. 140QLH | Master Lock.

There's a variety of lock shackle lengths and widths.

J.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

JohnJ80 said:


> Yes. In other words, the security allen screws are not industry standard so tools out there are not supposed to work in the 1Up Rack. Theoretically, higher security.
> 
> I've had one since they first came out with three add on kids and now about 20K+ miles on it. I've never worried about the rack being stolen.


I'm pretty sure they are in fact industry standard, hex with a hole in the end. One of the other threads talked about it.


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## JohnJ80 (Oct 10, 2008)

1up says no last time I asked them but who knows. Either way it's a deterrent.


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## big0mike (Jun 11, 2010)

JohnJ80 said:


> Just get a long shackle padlock and drop it over the bars where the add on meets the prior rack/add on. If you have more than one add on, just get keyed alike locks and one for each add on.
> 
> Model No. 140QLH | Master Lock.
> 
> There's a variety of lock shackle lengths and widths.


I don't think this would work because of the thickness of both pieces of aluminum together. It's gotta be nearly an inch or thicker which makes for a lock larger than anything I've ever seen. Even the lock you linked to only has 13/16 space between both sections of the shackle.



cycljunkie said:


> What if you were to drill a hole through the two plates that connect the add on to the quick rack? Then maybe find a padlock that was long enough to fit through that hole? I just ordered my add on so I'll be doing some additional research on how to secure this.
> View attachment 1116357


This is actually an exceptional idea based on the assumption that putting a hole in the aluminum would not weaken the racks in any way...

Drill the hole but make it big enough for one of their locks which is actually smaller than you'd need for your average padlock.

1UPUSA.com 2" Hitch Bar Lock

It would lock just like they lock the tires to the arms.

My thought, if someone was adept at welding aluminum, was to make a structure like they have on the racks main attachment to the hitch and weld it to the add-on racks. One could then use the stock 1up lock to secure the add-ons to the rack.











JohnJ80 said:


> Shark said:
> 
> 
> > I'm pretty sure they are in fact industry standard, hex with a hole in the end. One of the other threads talked about it.
> ...


It probably is an industry standard. Just one that no one uses. Or didn't. They used to replace your rack if it was stolen. Not any more...


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

I'm just about to order a one 1UP hitch rack with 2 add-ons (4 bikes total). I'm thinking a cable lock will work just fine and I won't get the wheel locks.

Has anyone found good options other than the 1UP locks for the hitch or add-on rack?

Hitch Bar Lock
$19.00








Add-On Lock
$19.00








Wheel Lock
$19.00


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

I'm paranoid, so I use these:

Chain - https://www.tulsachain.com/security-chain/security-chain

Locks - https://www.mul-t-lock.com/en-US/site/mul-t-lock/products/padlocks/


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

coke said:


> I'm paranoid, so I use these:
> 
> Chain - https://www.tulsachain.com/security-chain/security-chain
> 
> Locks - https://www.mul-t-lock.com/en-US/site/mul-t-lock/products/padlocks/


That is secure for sure. I would say I'm looking to cover more of the 80-90% range. If someone wants my stuff bad, they'll take it. At that point I would rather loose what ever they are taking and not risk more damage.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

gundrted said:


> That is secure for sure. I would say I'm looking to cover more of the 80-90% range. If someone wants my stuff bad, they'll take it. At that point I would rather loose what ever they are taking and not risk more damage.


I just don't trust cables since they can be cut so easily. Most padlocks are brittle, and can easily be opened with a hit of a hammer. Like you said, if someone wants something they'll get it, but I just prefer to not make it so easy.

:nono:


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

coke said:


> I just don't trust cables since they can be cut so easily. Most padlocks are brittle, and can easily be opened with a hit of a hammer. Like you said, if someone wants something they'll get it, but I just prefer to not make it so easy.


Agreed. That is way I'm questioning the locks from 1UP.


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

Does anyone know the diameter of the hole that goes in front of the bolt tensioning the rack to the hitch.

Its the vertical hole at the end of the 2in bar stock. It looks like a shackle diameter of .25in may fit.









I'm thinking of this lock may work.

Model No. 1471DAT
3-1/2in (89mm) Long Trailer Coupler Latch Lock
https://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/1471DAT








Here is a comparison of three hitch compiler locks.
https://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product-compare?ids=1471DAT,1475DAT,2847DAT


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## HaxEJxuK (Jul 28, 2011)

Whichever lock you go with, make sure you grease the heck out of it. I would maybe even pack it in key hole and any opening then put extra to cover it.

My lock that I put on looks like it's seized due to weather and salt and have to cut it if I ever want to pull it out.


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

HaxEJxuK said:


> Whichever lock you go with, make sure you grease the heck out of it. I would maybe even pack it in key hole and any opening then put extra to cover it.
> 
> My lock that I put on looks like it's seized due to weather and salt and have to cut it if I ever want to pull it out.


+1 on this. I always cover and lube my lock used in a rack.


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

I got a trimax 2.5in coupler lock and it fits great in the 1up. I don't keep my rack on the car at night on the street. It gets garaged when not in use. I feel this lick is much more secure the the one offered by 1up. It's also all stainless steel and has a round key. I don't grab a pic with it installed. The bung in the 1up is 2in. That means the lock had about 1/2in of play. This didn't bother me at all.

Trimax SXTC2 Premium Stainless Steel Coupler Lock (2.5" Span)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W0RPYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3N96AbW6P2YMK









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