# 8 speed shimano cassette which one is the best



## charlythen (Feb 17, 2012)

Hey guys, I'm new on the MTB and the forum, first forgiving if I violate any rules, but I have a question about buying this cassette I'm buying via ebay or amazon but I would like to choose the best quality and I would like have your help and opinion, ahy I leave the cassette below

Shimano HG51

Shimano HG41

Shimano HG41

Shimano HG-50

thanks guys


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

HG-50 and 51 are higher-spec than HG41. They're both fine cassettes.


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## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

My question would be where to get an 8 speed cassette with a 34t cog? My cannondale has one, but I can't find em anywhere.


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## winter (Nov 30, 2009)

charlythen said:


> I would like to choose the best quality and I would like have your help and opinion, ahy I leave the cassette below


Shimano stopped producing high end 8-speed stuff many years ago when they introduced 9-speed mountain shifters/derailleurs. At the time, there were some pretty loud complaints about planned obsolescence by the BigS. XTR and XT level 8-speed stuff are very hard to come by now a days, buy the best you can find or join the masses in riding 9-speed (or even go to 10-speed drivetrain). As for myself, I'm content with 9-speed drivetrain.



Cormac said:


> My question would be where to get an 8 speed cassette with a 34t cog


When on eBay or Amazon, use the search phrase "Megarange 8-speed" and a few listings will pop up from time to time. I had one of those 8-speed megarange cassettes many years ago, there was a big jump from 26T to the next gear at 34T; however, a 22/34 ratio or even 20/34 does come in handy when there's a steep climb and your legs are already feeling like noodles.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

I got a brand new HG-50 cassette without retail packaging for $2.34 off an eBay auction this summer. $7 shipping, but still under $10 total.

I've put a few hundred miles already and just no complains at all. Shift well and hold good.

But why did they stop making cassette with removable screw instead of the now riveted cogs ? The screws were so handy when you had to clean the cassette, just remove them and take everything apart to clean.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Just remove the rivet. You don't need it anyway, it's just there for convenience.


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## David C (May 25, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Just remove the rivet. You don't need it anyway, it's just there for convenience.


Yeah, that's what I was thinking about... And I have a few older 7 and 8 speed shimano cassette... I might do some maths and create a some custom ratios to my liking.

Since it's all HG cassette, shouldn't have a problem with shift ramps from 1995 to 2005ish, right ?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

David C said:


> Yeah, that's what I was thinking about... And I have a few older 7 and 8 speed shimano cassette... I might do some maths and create a some custom ratios to my liking.
> 
> Since it's all HG cassette, shouldn't have a problem with shift ramps from 1995 to 2005ish, right ?


Shift ramps are nice to have, especially for indexed shifting systems, but you don't really need them. Shimano and SRAM also line up the phases of the teeth on their cogs; this is also nice to have but not truly necessary. However, it does let you get away with a whole lot more in terms of shifting under load, loading incomplete shifts, etc. You can still break a chain if you're dumb about it, but get a little saddle time on something with a really old-school cog set and you'll see what I mean.

Personally, I wouldn't bother making a custom cassette. You're stuck with an 11t small cog, or maybe a 12t, for compatibility with the lockring. Sometimes the next larger cog interfaces with the smallest in a special way. IMHO, megarange sucks, so I like the steps between each cog to be reasonable. Shimano and SRAM already make the jumps proportional, except between the two largest cogs when it's a megarange cassette. So I buy an 11-34, ride it until it wears out, throw it away and replace. If there was a non-XTR 12-34, I'd get that instead. Oh well. I'm also somewhat tempted by the 12-36 - slightly smaller range, and gets rid of the awful 11-13 jump. I guess I just don't want to admit that I think I might like a 22/36 granny on a 26" hardtail.


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## JumpinStumps (Oct 30, 2013)

Sorry for the noobie questions on an older thread, but the topic seems right. I'll re-post elsewhere if need be.

My '96 8-speed Shimano drivetrain needs replacing. Middle ring is worn down and chain stretched out. I know I need a new middle chainring, new cassette, and new chain. Do I need to replace the XT derailer too if it's still working? (not sure if the little wheels get worn down too.)

Also, when replacing the cassette, am I able to replace with a more modern 9-speed cassette or does the width of the frame and range of the derailer limit me to an 8-speed? If I'm limited to 8-speed, I'm interested in getting an 11-32 to replace my 11-28 - and I do realize I'll need to size the chain to fit and make sure it works with the 22-32-42 chainrings up front.

Thank you!


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

You can go to nine speed - it would require a 9-speed shifter, chain, and cogset (and of course you'll also want to do your front rings since they're worn out.) The derailleur should be fine. If the wheels look really, really worn (they can actually function for an amazingly long time), they're easily replaceable if the rest of the derailleur is fine. 8 and 9 speed hub requirements are the same, so that'll slide right on.

If you stick with the 8, you'll want to do cogs, chain, and rings. A lot of times, it works out cheaper to replace the entire crankset than to replace the rings on an older one. 9 speed cranksets/rings are also compatible with 8 speed.


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## rumblytumbly (Jun 5, 2013)

My '96 8-speed Shimano drivetrain needs replacing. Middle ring is worn down and chain stretched out. I know I need a new middle chainring, new cassette, and new chain. Do I need to replace the XT derailer too if it's still working? (not sure if the little wheels get worn down too.)
------The derailleur pulleys last a long time, but if they are all rounded off at the teeth, they are replaceable for cheap. Factory replacements to match the derailleur from universalcycles or just some random chinese alloy 11t pulleys from the bay.

Also, when replacing the cassette, am I able to replace with a more modern 9-speed cassette or does the width of the frame and range of the derailer limit me to an 8-speed? If I'm limited to 8-speed, I'm interested in getting an 11-32 to replace my 11-28 - and I do realize I'll need to size the chain to fit and make sure it works with the 22-32-42 chainrings up front.
---chances are you've got a medium or long cage 8 spd derailleur. Not a problem going to a 34 or 36 tooth 8 or 9 speed cassette. You would need to upgrade your shifter, though, since that is where the indexing is. The derailleur is just a spring, the shifter tells that spring how far to move between cogs. 9 speed cogs move a little less between gears than an 8 speed with more indents but overall range is about the the same. Likewise, the hub you have will likely fit 8,9,10 speed cassettes just fine it's just the spacing between the individual rings is narrower going up in number of gears.


---plus what slapheadmofo said


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## JumpinStumps (Oct 30, 2013)

Very helpful responses - and fast! I'm really enjoying getting back into mountain biking after taking some years off with kids. I may just try to make these drive train upgrades myself. Seems like a good way to learn more about the bike and to save a few bucks. Thank you!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Since this is a 26" tire, I'd keep the cassette at 32 teeth or less. For anybody else reading this in the future, that huge jump from the 7th to 8th "mega-range" gear is a shock to the system. Personally, avoid the mega range cassettes for anything you'll use on the trails.

9-speed is a doable upgrade, but with a 96 stumpjumper, I'd keep it 8-speed. Keep it original, keep it cool. Should be able to get a good 8-speed cassette for $15-20 and a KMC chain for $12 off Amazon. Less if you shop around on ebay and the various online bike stores. 

The middle ring will be more difficult to find, but should be available. The problem with the crankset is if they used square taper, it'll be difficult to find a good quality square taper crankset, and I think the stumpjumpers from this time period used a larger diameter bottom bracket. Makes replacing just the chainring a more viable option.


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## JumpinStumps (Oct 30, 2013)

Thanks, watts888. I love the "keep it original, keep it cool" suggestion! I was thinking of bringing my top (or is it called low?) end to 30 or 32 for a bit more leverage and to try to keep from the granny gear. Looks like SRAM has an 11-30 option (SRAM PG-830 8-Speed Cassette) and one is on ebay for <$20.

Since my crankset and bottom bracket all seem fine, except for the middle ring, I'll just try to find a 32T replacement for that.

I also learned that going 9-speed would require replacing shifters too, so I'm sticking with 8.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I'll take all the granny gear I can get, as long as the spacing is even. And I feel no shame about using it. It helps me stay in the cadence range and effort level I want - I'll take that.


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## JumpinStumps (Oct 30, 2013)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I'll take all the granny gear I can get, as long as the spacing is even. And I feel no shame about using it. It helps me stay in the cadence range and effort level I want - I'll take that.


I didn't mean I was shamed about the granny gear. Was more a point of me not shifting in and out very smoothly... I seem to overshoot when getting back to the middle ring. I know this is a "user error" and I should probably just work on that vs. fiddling with the gear ratios!


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## akaHector (Apr 30, 2012)

So, are you guys saying that an 8 speed dérailleur can work as a 9 speed, provided that the shifters and chain are 9 speed? I've got some drivetrain work to do and wanted to go up to 9 speed but didn't want to fork out the cash for a new deraileur. Thanks!


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

Yep an 8 speed Shimano RD will work fine with all but Shimano 10 speed Dynasis. Just ensure that the cassette and shifters are matched (it is also best to use a 9 speed chain with a 9 speed cassette).
The amount the derailleur moves is controlled by the shifter and matched to the cassette spacing; for every 2" of cable pulled by the shifter the derailleur moves 1" (with 10 speed dynasis they changed this to 1 and bit to 1 so these won't work).
After breaking a 9 speed RD I've used an 8 speed RD as a stop gap on a 9 speed system and it worked fine.
Just ensure that the 8 Speed RD has the capacity to take the biggest cog size if you go to 9.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

JumpinStumps said:


> I didn't mean I was shamed about the granny gear. Was more a point of me not shifting in and out very smoothly... I seem to overshoot when getting back to the middle ring. I know this is a "user error" and I should probably just work on that vs. fiddling with the gear ratios!


Sounds more like a tuning problem to me. The front shifts are never as good as rear shifts, but on a Shimano trigger system, you should be able to just click the appropriate lever and have it work.


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## akaHector (Apr 30, 2012)

SimpleJon said:


> Yep an 8 speed Shimano RD will work fine with all but Shimano 10 speed Dynasis. Just ensure that the cassette and shifters are matched (it is also best to use a 9 speed chain with a 9 speed cassette).
> The amount the derailleur moves is controlled by the shifter and matched to the cassette spacing; for every 2" of cable pulled by the shifter the derailleur moves 1" (with 10 speed dynasis they changed this to 1 and bit to 1 so these won't work).
> After breaking a 9 speed RD I've used an 8 speed RD as a stop gap on a 9 speed system and it worked fine.
> Just ensure that the 8 Speed RD has the capacity to take the biggest cog size if you go to 9.


Thanks, bro! That is a nice revelation.


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