# Kona Stinky



## eymana (Jan 29, 2011)

any ideas to loose some weight on this tank, new to mountain biking and might not have made the best purchase for what kinda of riding i do so i'm gonna need to make it work.


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## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

The Stinky isn't usually the kind of bike people try to shed tons and tons of weight from but there are a few large parts that can (depending on your current setup) help shave some weight. The wheelset, crank, fork, and tires are good places to start but without build information and specifics, it is difficult to give advise.


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## eymana (Jan 29, 2011)

mtbnozpikr said:


> The Stinky isn't usually the kind of bike people try to shed tons and tons of weight from but there are a few large parts that can (depending on your current setup) help shave some weight. The wheelset, crank, fork, and tires are good places to start but without build information and specifics, it is difficult to give advise.


Its pretty muck a stock bike its the deluxe I guess


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## bmxconvert (May 17, 2006)

Do us a favor in helping you. Figure out what model year your bike is, go to Kona's site and copy the spec list for that specific model and year and post it here.

That way it's easy for anyone who glances here to make quick references off the top of their head rather than having to go out of their way to figure out any components you have.

As mentioned previously, the places to start out saving weight will be: wheels, tires, cranks, fork, rear shock(if not air or ti sprung).


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## mtbnozpikr (Sep 1, 2008)

I don't have the stock Stinky build memorized either. It is also important to know what type of rider you are. If you are a freerider or downhiller, suggestions for saving weight might be a bit different than if you are a cross country racer. Again, the Stinky is a freeride/downhill bike and weight can be saved but that bike is designed to take big hits and saving weight incorrectly will compromise strength.


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## eymana (Jan 29, 2011)

I'm gonna be using the bike for trailriding and some climbing for around some trails here in Billings. Then i will be taking it to Bigsky resort which has the best downhill in Montana.
I guess i kinda want to make it an all around bike. Dont have much $$$ i bought it at a pawn shop for $500


Frame tubing : Kona Clump Aluminum, 7" Travel
Rear Shock : Fox Vanilla DHX 3.0
Fork : Marzocchi Drop Off Triple 170mm
Headset : TH
Crankarms : TruVativ Hussefelt-Howitzer
Chainrings : TV Rockguard /36/24
B/B : TruVativ Hussefelt-Howitzer
Pedals : Kona Jackshit
Chain : Shimano CN-HG53
Freewheel : Shimano CS-HG-50 11-32 9 speed
F/D : Shimano Deore
R/D : Shimano Deore LX
Shifters : Shimano Deore
Handlebar : TruVativ Hussefelt OS Riser
Stem : TruVativ Hussefelt OS
Grips : Kona Jackshit
Brakes : Hayes Hydraulic HFX-9 HD V8
Brake Levers : Hayes Hydraulic HFX-9 HD V8
Front hub : KK Disc
Rear hub : Shimano FH-M525 disc
Spokes : Stainless 14g
Tires : Maxxis Minion DH 26 x 2.5
Rims : Sun MTX-S
Saddle : WTB Pure V Comp
Seatpost : TruVativ XR Double Clamp
Seat clamp : Kona QR


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## The Beater (Aug 17, 2008)

Change the tires from the 2 ply minion to a single ply ardent or minion or even some dual compound Nevigals, 2.35 up front and maybe a 2.1 in the back if the rim will allow that skinny of a tire. You could get a way lighter wheelset but it would cost at least 200 ish. 

Also get some 1.9-2.1 tubes for the new tires that should be 4 lbs or so, If you can find a set of used SLX cranks they should be cheap and light for the bike however I am not sure if the stinky uses a 83mm BB spacing.

ditching the tripple clamp fork for a modern 170 would shed a ton of weight but will cost a bunch.

getting a set of clipless pedals like and Xt or Crankbros Candy will say a half pound.

Also switching up the handle bars seat post ect are cheap area's to lose weight.

Best spot to start are the tires and tubes.

I can't say what would be next with out knowing what you want to spend.


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## seppk (Apr 29, 2009)

Instead of the Fox Vanilla, replace it with a Fox DHX air (or similar dh/am air shock from another company) Should save a really good ammount of weight and not much suspension performance will be lost due to the more downhill specific tuning of the dhx and simmilar shocks. Also, Like others have said, a tire switch, maybe even some Schwalbe Nobby Nics if you want light (higher price and not as aggressive and durable)


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## Wheelspeed (Jan 12, 2006)

Based on you saying you 'probably didn't buy the best bike for you' and not having a ton of money to blow...

I'd leave it alone. You have $500 now that you're willing to spend to try to make it into something it's not. Instead, enjoy it for what it's good at for a season and pick up a used cross-country bike next winter.

Otherwise, sell it for $400 or $500 and then look for a nice used trailbike for $800 or so.

Just my opinion.


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## The Beater (Aug 17, 2008)

I think he paid 500 for it, I would try selling it if you can for the same and then get an actual xc bike if you have to keep it then change the tires ect, but keep in mind a good set of tires will run you around 100-150 with tubes


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## eymana (Jan 29, 2011)

Wtf


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## bmxconvert (May 17, 2006)

Start with your wheels. Those MTX S-types are heavy especially when mounted on that Shimano rear hub.

If you want to really drop some weight for your day to day trail use, take a look at offerings from American Classic or WTB. Both make light, durable "all-mountain wheels" that will fit the Stinky. Throw on some single-ply tires like a Larsen TT/High Roller combo or similar and you'll find the bike will feel much more playful(due to dropping significant rotational weight).
Keep your S-types around with some DH casing tires for days when you go to lift-resorts

You could drop a good amount of weight, and improve the bikes overall versatility by going with a single crown air sprung, travel adjust fork.
Of course air sprung will be lighter and the travel adjust will help you tame that "freeride geometry" into something that's not too horrible going up hill.
Take a look at a Lyrik DH Dual Position. They're air sprung, 170mm travel and have a reduced travel mode for those uphill moments.

The HG50 cassette is heavy, but isn't worth replacing until you drop significant weight such as the wheels.
The Howitzer bottom bracket has a very bulky spindle, however replacing it requires new crank arms. I would go for a set of MRP Camber, e.13/the Hive, Gravity Lights, Saints or Descendant cranks for something that will be durable enough to lift days but light enough for trail days.
That bike does use a 73mm shell so if you plan on spending most your time trail riding then XT, SLX, Stylo, or Atlas cranks could work just fine as well.


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## Wheelspeed (Jan 12, 2006)

eymana said:


> Wtf


Sorry, not trying to insult you. The Stinky is a cool bike for terrain parks and DH. But once you start pricing some mods to make it lighter and have a better climbing geometry, you'll find that it adds up fast.


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