# Tool for suspension fork top caps



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

The top caps on my DVO and Pike are 24mm, 30mm, and 32mm. My options:

1: regular sockets - get the job done but chamfered inside means possible slipping.

2: ground down sockets - same as above but sold with the chamfered edge ground off so they are flat. Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!

3: lunar tools wrenches Lunar Bike Tools nice tools and the price is right. However you can't measure torque which is important.

4: Unior flat sockets https://uniorusa.com/product-category/sockets-with-accessories-for-bicycles/

5: Abbey USA (if I win the lottery) - https://www.abbeybiketools.com/products/suspension-top-cap-sockets

6: Fox (if you prefer orange) - https://www.pinkbike.com/news/fox-offers-fork-top-cap-sockets-and-seal-drivers.html

right now leaning towards Unior option. Any other suggestions or cautions?


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

There is a lot more to our (Abbey) sockets than just removing the lead in. They are a fair bit smaller across the flats and fit a lot more snugly than a standard steel socket. I'm not sure if the people that have followed in our footsteps with purpose built sockets have adopted this feature but it's worth thinking about. Keeping them short is also nice to further prevent cam out, this is especially helpful on the 32 size as even a standard depth socket is pretty tall in that size.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I've considered buying the luna wrenches a couple of times as the price is right and I'm sure they work just fine. However, I've never had an issue using a nice crescent wrench...no marred anodizing etc. If I were a professional bike mechanic I'd consider the abbey sockets.


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

customfab said:


> There is a lot more to our (Abbey) sockets than just removing the lead in. They are a fair bit smaller across the flats than a fit a lot more snugly than a standard steel socket. I'm not sure if the people that have followed in our footsteps with purpose built sockets have adopted this feature but it's worth thinking about. Keeping them short is also nice to further prevent cam out, this is especially helpful on the 32 size as even a standard depth socket is pretty tall in that size.


No question these are the best option. However I've not heard of any issues with other cheaper options so long as care is given. The only time anyone reported an issue with damage to a top cap was one that was cross threaded at the factory. So these seem like a solution looking for a problem. I'm also looking to use them for non bike purposes and that means steel construction.

If they cost less, say $20, I could give it more serious thought. But for something I'll use 2-3 times a year I will probably go with a cheaper option that in the end will work the same for me.


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> I've considered buying the luna wrenches a couple of times as the price is right and I'm sure they work just fine. However, I've never had an issue using a nice crescent wrench...no marred anodizing etc. If I were a professional bike mechanic I'd consider the abbey sockets.


I don't have crescent wrench in this size so I have to buy something. My adjustable is too sloppy to trust for this job.

What brands do you work on? RS seems like they have taller caps. I also noticed they use craftsman 12 point chamfered sockets in their product manual. If it's good enough for them...


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## Cleaner (Mar 23, 2004)

I have wrenches similar to the Luna version but if you want one tool that will work with most of the hex top caps on forks the Knipex pliers wrench work effectively. Not as good as a dedicated tool and you can not attach it to a torque wrench but they are good for top caps and many other applications.

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-86032...&sr=1-1&keywords=knipex+10-inch+pliers+wrench

Amazon is not necessarily the best price in the USA. I bought mine from Zoro tools on sale for less.


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## oberwil (Nov 5, 2007)

I took my Craftsmen sockets to a machine shop and had them grind them flat and take some material off. I swapped services, and they did a real professional job.
So my two bits is you may want to look into finding a good machinist to take your sockets to and have them done just the way you want. Or if you have the tooling do them yourself.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Having nice, specific tools is nice, a socket with the bevel ground off properly works just fine. Got one of the guys at my brothers hydraulic hose place to lath them down for me, so no charge. Don't think even if I had the $$ I'd be spending $25 US per socket, even though they are nice.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Cheap sockets plus a belt-sander to take the chamfer off. Why pay more?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Doug said:


> I don't have crescent wrench in this size so I have to buy something. My adjustable is too sloppy to trust for this job.
> 
> What brands do you work on? RS seems like they have taller caps. I also noticed they use craftsman 12 point chamfered sockets in their product manual. If it's good enough for them...


The first fork I really worked on was a first run 36 talas that I converted to spring. I considered grinding down a socket on my bench grinder as I had already ground down wrenches to service my hadley hubs. First I thought I'd try an adjustable and the top cap spun out no problem. I've owned/worked on just about every fork under the sun including my current favorite forks since, MRP.

The key is to orient the crescent in the proper direction, get it as tight as possible, & as parallel as possible. While socket & wrench tolerances are all over the mab it's possible to tighten the crescent in such a way that it's engaging the entirety of the full 2 sides of the top cap nut where box wrenches and sockets are more or less only engaging very little of the nut at it's points. That's not to say abbey's sockets aren't very tight, they may be, I've never handled one.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

If I worked on alot of suspension I would get the abbey, they look very nice!


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## aluminiumsucks (Jan 14, 2006)

Park Tool also makes the SKT-6. It's a six piece set of flat faced sockets. Check those out here: SKT-6 Flat-Faced Socket Set | Park Tool


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

aluminiumsucks said:


> Park Tool also makes the SKT-6. It's a six piece set of flat faced sockets. Check those out here: SKT-6 Flat-Faced Socket Set | Park Tool


Those look nice. Price seems right too, about $50 or so for the set. Calling my local shop now....they are new so may not be in stock or available just yet.


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Ebay & a file. About as cheap as you can get and every bit as reliable as those hilariously over priced options. Then again, I guess if nice tools make you feel all warm & fuzzy go for it.

And you are saving money doing the work yourself...but still...


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

eshew said:


> Ebay & a file. About as cheap as you can get and every bit as reliable as those hilariously over priced options. Then again, I guess if nice tools make you feel all warm & fuzzy go for it.
> 
> And you are saving money doing the work yourself...but still...


I'm concerned with the tolerances on some of the cheapies. I have enough Harbor Freight and other cheap tools to know that they measure in "ish" when making cheap tools. Their 20mm socket is 20mm-ish. My higher priced tools fit better and don't mar or round the stuff they are tightening/loosening.

Plus time. I don't have the time to grind them down and am not sure I could get it both flat and level.

Not to mention a 32mm socket isn't exactly cheap even with the chamfers.

It will be the Park tools for me. The price is quite good for a set with this many. I'm not sure I could get decent chamfered sockets for much less.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

While I have some DIY methods when it comes to bikes, I've invested in some nice tools over the years. It's as much as a hobby to me as the riding. A finely made tool is not only nice to gaze at and admire, it has a feel to it in your hand. I know this tool is going to last a long time and will be a pleasure to use every time.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

WHALENARD said:


> The key is to orient the crescent in the proper direction, get it as tight as possible, & as parallel as possible. While socket & wrench tolerances are all over the mab it's possible to tighten the crescent in such a way that it's engaging the entirety of the full 2 sides of the top cap nut where box wrenches and sockets are more or less only engaging very little of the nut at it's points. That's not to say abbey's sockets aren't very tight, they may be, I've never handled one.


Even with your method you're still transferring the torque at the two corners at either end of your adjustable wrench. The tighter the fit the more of the flat you can use but you are ultimately still transferring the torque at the corner. This is the problem with loose fitting tools in general, they only grab at the very corner and that's how things get damaged.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

No argument here, and not recommended for everybody. Part of me thinks the old marzocchi with the cassette tool is a way better system and part of me thinks if you need high end sockets to remove a top cap without marring it you have no business digging into your fork. Mechanical availability is lost on those without the head for it.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

eshew said:


> About as cheap as you can get and every bit as reliable as those hilariously over priced options.


What do you do for a living? Would you be willing to accept a steady job for $1.75 an hour?


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Cleared2land said:


> What do you do for a living? Would you be willing to accept a steady job for $1.75 an hour?


I don't understand where your going with this. We're talking about a sockets. Sockets that are either very nice and $50 ea. Sockets that are pretty nice and $20 ea, or sockets that are made in China and could be ground down to work reliably for anywhere from $5-$10 ea. Even cheaper if you're lucky enough to have a pawn shop or second hand store that sells em.

Worked on bikes and cars for 20 years, if you're doing an axle nut that needs to be torqued to 300 ft/lbs you need a good socket. If you're torquing an aluminum top cap to 16 ft lbs you need to be careful.

My Chinese or 2nd hand Craftsman sockets that I ground down don't slip and do the job just fine.

My job pays me well enough, I wouldn't take a job for $1.75 and hour. But my money is for my family and everything they need now and moving forward. It's not my job to support a business that makes something I don't need. My money is saved or invested and spent on day to day needs and occasionally spent on recreation. When it's spent I get the most out of it, sometimes expensive tools are needed to save money in the long run, that's fine. I don't have the need for hand made boutique tools so I don't buy them. No one needs hand made boutique tools.

But as I said in my previous post, if it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy to have a sweet set of sockets, then that adds value as well. It's your money. And if I was in your shop working on my fork I'd use your sockets rather than mine. Just don't want to pay for them.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Your point is well taken.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

This is why i don't have kids, shiny tools!


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

And I wasn't sure I'd get any replies!

The Park sockets are looking more and more like a great deal. Now if only anyone had them for sale.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

I bought cheap sockets on ebay, a few seconds on my neighbours bench-sander and they work perfectly. 

This is not a demanding application here. Unless you work on a shop and service forks all the do da day expensive sockets are not remotely justified.


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

Mr Pig said:


> I bought cheap sockets on ebay, a few seconds on my neighbours bench-sander and they work perfectly.
> 
> This is not a demanding application here. Unless you work on a shop and service forks all the do da day expensive sockets are not remotely justified.


Yep, 5" angle grinder and a 80 grit flap wheel do a beautiful job, just use a decent fitting socket. If you have access to a lathe, turn em down.


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## reptilezs (Aug 20, 2007)

to those that are grinding down sockets. consider getting impact grade or uncrhomed(snap on industrial is black oxide) sockets. the chrome can chip and cut you


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ Good point!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

*Sweet...*


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## Black Dog Suspension (Dec 1, 2017)

The abbey sockets have been amazing and very reliable for us since we sprung for them. I would highly recommend them for heavy shop use. I had used ground down sockets before with mixed results. This is by far a better route for home use than using a crescent wrench (don't use a crescent wrench!), but don't get the cheapest ebay socket you can find. Your suspension is likely the most valuable piece on your bike, it's not worth screwing it up with cheap tools.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

I went the cheapo way with all those sized. Over the years as I got new fork I bought 6pt sockets (cheap ones since I am going to hack them up) and removed the chamfer. I had one machined down by friend, I did one myself on a bench grinder, and one with an angle grinder. They all came out flat and work great. A cheap 32mm was a bit harder to find but a Saturn fuel filter socket is that size and only $5-7 online or at Pep boys.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

The thing with sockets is you're not applying force in the plane of the faces so there is a propensity for the socket to lever off the hex head, especially shallow heads like a fork cap. The shorter the socket, the better. A wrench with a jointed head can help mitigate this. Applying a counter force at the head of the wrench, of course, is also good, and, maybe counterintuitively, an extension can help with this.

I haven't tried it, and am not recommending it, but a Knipex Pliers Wrench might do it. They only work on two faces but they grip them tightly and they work in the plane of the head.


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## Joe_Re (Jan 10, 2011)

Lone Rager said:


> I haven't tried it, and am not recommending it, but a Knipex Pliers Wrench might do it. They only work on two faces but they grip them tightly and they work in the plane of the head.


I ran into a few forks where the clearance between the crown and top-cap was so minimal that my socket wouldn't fit. I don't remember which ones they were. The Knipex Pliers Wrench saved the day, but that is the exception, not the rule. I always use a socket where I can.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

Joe_Re said:


> I ran into a few forks where the clearance between the crown and top-cap was so minimal that my socket wouldn't fit. I don't remember which ones they were. The Knipex Pliers Wrench saved the day, but that is the exception, not the rule. I always use a socket where I can.


That is what this thread is about. The chamfer on the bottom of your standard socket makes it unsuitable for use in fork service. You either need to remove the chamfer or buy that abby set.



Lone Rager said:


> The thing with sockets is you're not applying force in the plane of the faces so there is a propensity for the socket to lever off the hex head,....


I totally get this. When using a headset press I always remind my friends to grab both handles of the tool and not try to turn it with one hand. Goes in much straighter that way.

I haven't had any problems with turning fork caps with a ratchet but if I did I would get a T-handle driver. I use these to turn taps all the time.


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## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

Ratt said:


> That is what this thread is about. The chamfer on the bottom of your standard socket makes it unsuitable for use in fork service. You either need to remove the chamfer or buy that abby set.
> 
> I totally get this. When using a headset press I always remind my friends to grab both handles of the tool and not try to turn it with one hand. Goes in much straighter that way.
> 
> I haven't had any problems with turning fork caps with a ratchet but if I did I would get a T-handle driver. I use these to turn taps all the time.


Good suggestion about the T Handle. I will check those out.

I have been very happy with the Park set. The only issue has been DVO needs a thin wall socket for the Diamond damper. For that I used a dremel to make a standard socket thin enough and ground some of the chamfer down just to make sure it had about 5mm on the fitting.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

A bit OT, but Rockshox going to a cassette tool to remove the air spring cap is an interesting development.


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## Joe_Re (Jan 10, 2011)

Ratt said:


> That is what this thread is about. The chamfer on the bottom of your standard socket makes it unsuitable for use in fork service. You either need to remove the chamfer or buy that abby set.


For the record, my sockets are hand ground, then filed/sanded/deburred. I like nice tools and don't mind spending the money, when I have it, for them. With exceptions, nice/expensive tools make the job go more smoothly.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Lone Rager said:


> The thing with sockets is you're not applying force in the plane of the faces so there is a propensity for the socket to lever off the hex head, especially shallow heads like a fork cap. The shorter the socket, the better. A wrench with a jointed head can help mitigate this. Applying a counter force at the head of the wrench, of course, is also good, and, maybe counterintuitively, an extension can help with this.
> 
> I haven't tried it, and am not recommending it, but a Knipex Pliers Wrench might do it. They only work on two faces but they grip them tightly and they work in the plane of the head.


You can apply force in the plain parallel to the fastener with a socket, it just takes a little care. Putting the palm of your off hand on the back of the ratchet does a lot to prevent cam out. Having a socket that isn't over clearanced helps a lot as well.

The Knipex Pliers Wrench is a great tool and is probably the best option for top caps if you're not going to buy a specific tool for that job. Turns out they are also great for damn near everything else. We have several pairs in the shop and use them all the time.



Lone Rager said:


> A bit OT, but Rockshox going to a cassette tool to remove the air spring cap is an interesting development.


Only on the short travel forks at this point where knee clearance is a larger concern. It's a more complicated part to make so I doubt we will see it adopted across all suspension platforms but who knows.


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## Ratt (Dec 22, 2003)

Joe_Re said:


> For the record, my sockets are hand ground, then filed/sanded/deburred. I like nice tools and don't mind spending the money, when I have it, for them. With exceptions, nice/expensive tools make the job go more smoothly.


I am assuming you are nicking the crown with your socket. 







Its hard to see in the Fox service guide but they bevel the outer edge of the socket to clearance the fork the crown.
View attachment 1175440








In their video guide you can see how much bevel they added and that they homebrew tools too.



customfab said:


> ... Having a socket that isn't over clearanced helps a lot as well. ....


Yes, there is that fine line of making it too thin for wobble or cracking. I used to make homemade thin wall sockets for Marzocchi All-mtn footnuts. Cracked so many when I mindlessly use one elsewhere on the bike.



customfab said:


> ...The Knipex Pliers Wrench is a great tool and is probably the best option for top caps if you're not going to buy a specific tool for that job. Turns out they are also great for damn near everything else. We have several pairs in the shop and use them all the time..


No experience with those pliers but do you think these would work as well? I love these when working overhead and I have to reach down into my bag for another tool, I can just leave this wrench in place.

I just saw your avatar and just now made the connection. Very nice tools there.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Marzocchi used cassette tool top caps for years. 
We're recommending knipex pliers, but poo pooing crescent wrenches? Lol.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Knipex Pliers Wrench is an amazing device, as are some of their other tools. No comparison with a crescent wrench, though that hybrid crescent/visegrip wrench looks like it might be OK. 

The Knipex Cobra Pliers are amazing too, though not for use on something you don't want to mar. I once used them with a three foot extension on the handles, putting a heck of a lot of force on that extension, and they did the job. I was amazed they didn't break. 

Another one is their Bolt End Cutting Nippers. These things have quickly cut through any cable lock I tried them on. Great for stealing bikes, though that wasn't what I was doing.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

WHALENARD said:


> We're recommending knipex pliers, but poo pooing crescent wrenches? Lol.


Completely different tools. The Pliers Wrench squeezes as it turns where the adjustable wrench just turns. The difference is pretty significant.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Lone Rager said:


> though not for use on something you don't want to mar.


That is the gist of my post. The top cap on my mrp is 2mm tall and machined out for the adjuster. The ham fisted home mechanic could easily crush it with a knipex plier. I like them more than most indexing spanners. My bread and butter for years was kitchen and bath remodeling. For finished fittings the knipex are #1 as they were (mostly) fool proof for my guys.


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## OwenM (Oct 17, 2012)

He specifically said the *Cobra* wasn't for use on things you don't want to mar, which it isn't, 'cause it mars everything you put it on. Best tool of its kind, though, and probably gets mentioned automatically because it'll make an instant Knipex fan out of you. But it's not what he was talking about for topcap use. The pliers wrench isn't something I'd go out and buy to use on a topcap, either, but shouldn't hurt anything.

I originally ground down a cheap 6pt 24mm, but just enough to get past the bevels. It was a loose fit, though. Ended up buying a shorter one that works better and doesn't mar the caps in spite of being 12pt. Very limited options for 24mm locally, for whatever reason. In hindsight, after spending $25 on a pair of sockets, grinding the original one down, and still having one that's less than optimal, that Abbey for $35 online sounds pretty good. Knowing me, I'll end up buying one now that I know about it


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## 2000_Mesa (Jan 13, 2018)

I have a 2001 Rock Shox Jett front fork with one top cap measuring 24mm and the other has a preload screw and a 3/4" cap (measured with digital micrometer). The Luna Bikes 24mm Fork Cap Wrench makes sense for the right side but the tines on the preload screw would prevent using a socket or wrench similar to the Luna wrench. I've tried using box wrenches and adjustables. I'm concerned about damaging the soft plastic cap.

The manuals I can find talk about the preload adjuster but not about it's related cap.

Would a cone wrench work (assuming I can find a 3/4")?

Any other suggestions?


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*To bring back this topic*

I eventually bought a 24mm Abbey tools socket for my Rockshox fork and it worked quite nicely. I now need a 28mm and 32mm for Fox fork. Not sure if there is a difference between the Abbey sockets and the branded Fox sockets?


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Green vs. Orange


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

And apparently I need 2 different tools to punch the lowers off, good grief!


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

For me, it eases the pain of buying quality specialty tools when you consider it usually covers the expense of the LBS doing the job, or significantly subsidizes the cost of having it done.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I hear ya, I DIY everything I can. No master mechanic here but I tend to figure things out eventually. Thanks to the kind folks at MTBR (and youtube) done learned me a'plenty.

Actually I haven't had the best experience with the work done at my LBS's which nudged me even more to tackle everything myself.

Just need the Park truing stand and I can open up my own shop.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

dundundata said:


> And apparently I need 2 different tools to punch the lowers off, good grief!


Lol...yes.

If you have a Fox 32...they use one size.

As for the top cap socket...I have both the Unior and Park sockets. They get the job done and are reasonably priced. The other must have if you have flangeless fork seals...is the piloted seal driver. Makes installing the seals so easy. The seals press in straight every time. The Fox 34 press also work with the Rockshox 35mm seals.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Fox 36, thanks will add to the collection


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## Thoreau (Jun 15, 2017)

dundundata said:


> And apparently I need 2 different tools to punch the lowers off, good grief!


Just did my 34 last night for the 4th time since getting it. I just remove the nut, then thread it back on just to where it's engaging all the threads in the nut, put the socket back on, and tappity tap with a small hammer. Bonus tip, remove those plastic crush washers before hammering to give a little more clearance and ensure everything un-seats on the first attempt.

Hasn't failed me yet, and as long as you aren't going full hulk, doesn't seem to be having any adverse affects on either the nut or the threaded bit. I eyeballed the special tools from Fox for that purpose but I'll be damned if I could bring myself to spend that much coin... and i LOVE buying tools. (Just adopted a rather pricey Park Tool BB press set yesterday... damn it's nice, lol.)



RS VR6 said:


> Lol...yes.
> 
> If you have a Fox 32...they use one size.
> 
> As for the top cap socket...I have both the Unior and Park sockets. They get the job done and are reasonably priced. The other must have if you have flangeless fork seals...is the piloted seal driver. Makes installing the seals so easy. The seals press in straight every time. The Fox 34 press also work with the Rockshox 35mm seals.


I may just be lucky and have a magical adjustable wrench (I mean it's pretty nice, Kobalt brand) but I've just never had an issue using that on either my Fox 34, or my Rockshox Revelation. I can definitely see the value for a shop since time is money, but for a home mechanic doing this once a year or so, I can spend the 30 seconds it takes to carefully use an adjustable wrench.

Kinda made my life a hair easier on my Fox 34 because I swapped out the air side cap with an MRP Ramp Control module. That uses a basic 10mm socket to get the first nut off and then just a normal cassette lock ring tool for the rest.

Only special tool I've found that's really needed/worth it for home use is the thing from Fox for seating the new seals. THAT tool is worth it's weight in gold for damn sure.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I ended up getting the 2 Fox sockets. The Abbey tools would have been a little more money. Also got the lower leg tools, I was surprised how heavy and beefy they are. That's about $130 altogether, and add another $35 for the seal driver tool. 

Now that you say it that's always how I've taken forks apart, thought there was something special about this one that you needed the leg tools.


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