# Too much weight on my hands



## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

On my mountain bike, I definitely feel like there is too much weight on my hands, especially when seated and maybe riding an easy, smooth trail.

Are my bars too low?
Wrong stem, need shorter?
I'm positive the saddle isn't too high.

I'm a veteran rider and shouldn't need to be posting this question, but I am not sure what to do.

Thanks, everyone.


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## yzedf (Apr 22, 2014)

A higher bar height will help with that. Sometimes the bar is rolled too far forward or back too.


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## GJmtnbike (Nov 27, 2017)

Made a big difference, to me.

RaceFace Atlas 1.25” Riser Handlebar (Green) 785mm 32mm Rise


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

You need to engage your core more. When you are riding it should feel like you can take your hands off the bars. Do you have an abdominal injury?


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

New bike with more modern geo? By chance?


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Shorter stem, higher stem, or higher bars should all be considered.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

ballisticexchris said:


> You need to engage your core more. When you are riding it should feel like you can take your hands off the bars. Do you have an abdominal injury?


I find when I get tired, even just a little, I tend to lean back just a little and lock or at least straighten my arms. And that makes me "stiff" in the saddle, and I start to feel the weight on my hands. 

When I become conscious of it, I just lean forward a little bit, enough to crook my elbows, and that feeling disappears. Somewhat counter-intuitively, that means my core is supporting my weight rather than my hands. And it's not like my core is sore or tired and can't support me, it's just a sort of laziness that's easily overcome by thought. And, the whole business further strengthens my core.

Fit issues can certainly contribute, but try this first.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

dysfunction said:


> New bike with more modern geo? By chance?


Yes, new bike. 2022 Orbea Rise M20 Large. Regular bike is 2017 Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 Medium. I have not tried to look up measurements like top tube. I could do that, though.

Thanks for input.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

elder_mtber said:


> Yes, new bike. 2022 Orbea Rise M20 Large. Regular bike is 2017 Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 Medium. I have not tried to look up measurements like top tube. I could do that, though.
> 
> Thanks for input.


Yea. The steeper STA's tend to do that. All the usual advice is applicable, but I was curious if this was what caused the onset. Nice bike btw!


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

mikesee said:


> Shorter stem, higher stem, or higher bars should all be considered.


 mikesee, good to hear from another veteran here. Higher, and maybe shorter, is what it "feels like" to me.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

TwiceHorn said:


> I find when I get tired, even just a little, I tend to lean back just a little and lock or at least straighten my arms. And that makes me "stiff" in the saddle, and I start to feel the weight on my hands.
> 
> When I become conscious of it, I just lean forward a little bit, enough to crook my elbows, and that feeling disappears. Somewhat counter-intuitively, that means my core is supporting my weight rather than my hands. And it's not like my core is sore or tired and can't support me, it's just a sort of laziness that's easily overcome by thought. And, the whole business further strengthens my core.
> 
> Fit issues can certainly contribute, but try this first.


I have a terrible bad back, 3 fusion surgeries + back hurts every f***ing day. But this condition is not new.

Good idea about core support. I'd say in my normal flat smooth trail (paved path) position I definitely cannot take my hands off the bars. My chest and head would fall forward.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

elder_mtber said:


> I have a terrible bad back, 3 fusion surgeries + back hurts every f***ing day. But this condition is not new.
> 
> Good idea about core support. I'd say in my normal flat smooth trail (paved path) position I definitely cannot take my hands off the bars. My chest and head would fall forward.


Yeah, when I say lean forward, it's not so much that I feel in any way cramped; that, I think would start to implicate the fit issues and stem and bars and whatnot.

And, luckily, I have no back issues that make leaning forward just slightly any kind of issue.

New geo and dimensions puts a new twist on everything.


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## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

Yep, shorter stem, higher rise bars, more stem spacers, stem with some rise, all of those should help some. My only worry with pulling the bars back and up higher, is if that keeps enough weight on the front tire for turning, so you may find you have to find some sort of a compromise "good enough for both sitting and spinning, and standing and descending" situation. I had the same issue with my old bike, and it took some trial and error to get to where I was wanting it.

Another random, and kind of outside the box thought, is that as long as you're not getting lots of pedal strikes, you could also get some longer cranks. As the saddle height is determined by the distance from the extended pedal to the top of the saddle, longer cranks allow for a lower seat height, which would help in this sitting and pedaling position, without messing with any of the standing fit.

I'm not sure if this is possible on an ebike (I have zero experience with them, as they're not legal most places near me, so I haven't looked into them much). But if it were a normal bike, its another option to consider.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

If your last bike was a Fuel Ex in Medium, a new bike with longer modern geo could be too big for you in a Large.
You can push your seat forward besides the other things.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

the rise comes with a 55mm stem and bars that have a small amount of rise. Get a 40mm stem and a 35-40mm rise bar. One of my personal favorites is the PNW range handlebar as it's 2014 aluminum which has nice vibration damping, 35mm rise and a bit more back sweep then is typical. As some one whom has back issues, and has sprained their hands more then a few times, it's a great bar for this bike. Fwiw, I have an XL rise and my wife has a M, I'm 6'2" she's 5'8" and neither of us are on the stock handlebar or stem.


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## allroads (Feb 24, 2004)

For the OP, have you considered your saddle tilt, and saddle profile for that matter, as part of the equation? The saddle angle can pitch you forward and thereby increase the forward lean and the weight on your hands. Of course, there are also other limits of comfort to consider when changing the saddle tilt.

Just a thought...


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## GoldenKnightMTB (11 mo ago)

I have a similar issue, my left wrist goes numb when I'm going downhill. I have tried rotating my grip angle, adjusting my dropper lever, brakes. I feel like my bars tilt down a bit. Should I rotate them forward/up a bit. 
Anyone had experience with Intense grips? which I'm using.


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## goofyarcher (Jul 12, 2020)

On my 2022 trek i went to 35mm 8% bars Spanks vibracore fixed it for me


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

eb1888 said:


> If your last bike was a Fuel Ex in Medium, a new bike with longer modern geo could be too big for you in a Large.
> You can push your seat forward besides the other things.


Going to try the seat forward adjustment. Thanks.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

elder_mtber said:


> Going to try the seat forward adjustment. Thanks.


Would help a great deal if you tell your height, if you are normally proportioned, and post a photo of the bike from the side. Right now we are shooting in the dark. More information will result in better advice.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

GoldenKnightMTB said:


> I have a similar issue, my left wrist goes numb when I'm going downhill. I have tried rotating my grip angle, adjusting my dropper lever, brakes. I feel like my bars tilt down a bit. Should I rotate them forward/up a bit.
> Anyone had experience with Intense grips? which I'm using.


Play with tilt, try different grips. Both are very personal and what helps one person may not help another. For me going to smaller grips helps with numbness,despite having relatively large hands. My buddy, it was larger grips.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Are you sure the nose of the seat isn't slightly too low?

It doesn't take much.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

elder_mtber said:


> On my mountain bike, I definitely feel like there is too much weight on my hands, especially when seated and maybe riding an easy, smooth trail.


Higher bars and/or a slacker seat tube will both reduce weight on the hands. A shorter stem could help depending on what you are running now.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

elder_mtber said:


> Yes, new bike. 2022 Orbea Rise M20 Large. Regular bike is 2017 Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 Medium. I have not tried to look up measurements like top tube. I could do that, though.
> 
> Thanks for input.


Good luck. I had the same problem with a new Ripley V4 I bought, ended up selling it.


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## grabek (Aug 4, 2006)

Had same problem. New geo bike with steep STA - too much weight on hands vs. old geo bike which feels fine. Riser bar, grips, shorter/longer stem - nothing solve my problem. 
One thing which make a difference was to move saddle back on rails. It turns out I prefer to sit more "behind" cranks.


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## WhiteDLite (Mar 4, 2016)

grabek said:


> Had same problem. New geo bike with steep STA - too much weight on hands vs. old geo bike which feels fine. Riser bar, grips, shorter/longer stem - nothing solve my problem.
> One thing which make a difference was to move saddle back on rails. It turns out I prefer to sit more "behind" cranks.


Well now I'm going to try moving seat back.. I've never thought moving it back would relieve some hand pressure. Seems counterintuitive, but I'll try it. Thanks,


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## NC_Foothills_Rider (11 mo ago)

I was having a similar issue on my new bike with the OEM 20mm riser bar with maximum spacers underneath the stem. Replaced with 40mm riser and lowered it 10mm on the steerer. Slightly increased reach and raised the grips about 10-15mm over the stock setup. It doesn't sound like much but it made a very noticeable difference in terms of weight distribution for better cornering and somehow my hands weren't going numb on my last two rides.

.


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## pedalinbob (Jan 12, 2004)

WhiteDLite said:


> Well now I'm going to try moving seat back.. I've never thought moving it back would relieve some hand pressure. Seems counterintuitive, but I'll try it. Thanks,


This.
There are other excellent excellent pieces of advice, but this one is huge.

Steep STA/saddle forward is likely to tip you onto your hands.
Slacker STA/saddle to the rear, will move your hips, torso and upper body rearward in relation to your legs. Your rearward hips/forward legs will counter balance your upper body while in the saddle, and give you some balance to help keep from pitching forward.

You may need to raise the bars and place a shorter stem so you don't end up with an overly acute hip angle while seated.

You will need to focus more on weighting the front wheel on climbs and in corners.

I'm in the minority here, but I despise steep STA.
I know there are certain advantages, but our trails are very pedally, and I have very long femurs, so steep STA are very uncomfortable for me.

I don't completely buy the "stronger core" advice. I have a pretty strong core for a 53 year old, and my back/core tires pretty fast with a forward saddle.

Bob


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## Crankout (Jun 16, 2010)

Yeah, so this song immediately popped into my head when seeing the Thread title...


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

pedalinbob said:


> I don't completely buy the "stronger core" advice. I have a pretty strong core for a 53 year old, and my back/core tires pretty fast with a forward saddle.


It's probably less about having stronger muscles in your core, and more about _engaging_ the core muscles that you do have as others have mentioned.



ballisticexchris said:


> You need to engage your core more. When you are riding it should feel like you can take your hands off the bars. Do you have an abdominal injury?





TwiceHorn said:


> I find when I get tired, even just a little, I tend to lean back just a little and lock or at least straighten my arms. And that makes me "stiff" in the saddle, and I start to feel the weight on my hands.
> 
> When I become conscious of it, I just lean forward a little bit, enough to crook my elbows, and that feeling disappears. Somewhat counter-intuitively, that means my core is supporting my weight rather than my hands. And it's not like my core is sore or tired and can't support me, it's just a sort of laziness that's easily overcome by thought. And, the whole business further strengthens my core.
> 
> Fit issues can certainly contribute, but try this first.


For me, when I moved to a bike with a steeper STA than I had been accustomed to, I had to adjust my riding position in a similar way. My core muscles actually aren't all that strong these days. They could definitely be stronger and it occasionally is relevant in riding. However, engaging your core to support you body on the bike is less about strength and more about a consistent lower intensity use of those muscles.

Also, I think part of it is that adjusting your position this way changes the angles of your wrists and the pressure points of your hands on the grips. If you're not getting straight forearms to your wrists, which are perpendicular to the grips, then you should make some tweaks to adjust that.

OP's medical history/back issues definitely throw a wrinkle into things and it's entirely possible that some bike geometries aren't going to allow for a good fit that works within those limitations.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Cary said:


> Would help a great deal if you tell your height, if you are normally proportioned, and post a photo of the bike from the side. Right now we are shooting in the dark. More information will result in better advice.


I'm 5'10". I used to be 6' but degenerative disc disease literally shortened my spine. And led to my 3 low back surgeries.

I took a couple of simple tape measure readings. A big difference is the distance from the center of the top of the seat tube to the center of the stem (reach?). The Trek (on the left with the seat bag) is a full inch shorter. Also, I am riding the Trek with a little higher saddle position than the Orbea.










Frame geo - a big diff appears to be the reach. About 1 inch. Other differences, Rise has a longer chainstay (bad), a longer wheelbase (bad), and a slacker head tube. No wonder I am having trouble with tight, rough switchbacks!
Thanks for your interest.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

allroads said:


> For the OP, have you considered your saddle tilt, and saddle profile for that matter, as part of the equation? The saddle angle can pitch you forward and thereby increase the forward lean and the weight on your hands. Of course, there are also other limits of comfort to consider when changing the saddle tilt.
> 
> Just a thought...


Yes, I have moved that a little. Raising the nose seems to help but causes other problems. Like rubbing uncomfortably. And getting weight on the front when needed.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

dysfunction said:


> New bike with more modern geo? By chance?


Yes, 2022 Orbea Rise M20. Other bike is a 2017 Trek Fuel EX 9.9.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Cary said:


> Play with tilt, try different grips. Both are very personal and what helps one person may not help another. For me going to smaller grips helps with numbness,despite having relatively large hands. My buddy, it was larger grips.


I'm not having numbness or wrist pain problems but my triceps feel they are working too hard.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

elder_mtber said:


> I'm 5'10". I used to be 6' but degenerative disc disease literally shortened my spine. And led to my 3 low back surgeries.
> 
> I took a couple of simple tape measure readings. A big difference is the distance from the center of the top of the seat tube to the center of the stem (reach?). The Trek (on the left with the seat bag) is a full inch shorter. Also, I am riding the Trek with a little higher saddle position than the Orbea.
> View attachment 2000072
> ...


One note. Reach is a frame dimension that's more relevant to a standing position. It's the horizontal distance from the bb to the head tube. Reach on its own has nothing to do with STA. It's not as relevant to seated position. 

Seated position is described more by the ETT. And these bikes only differ by 2mm.

STA is going to describe the relationship between Reach and ETT. The closer the two measurements are together, the steeper the STA. The farther apart, the slacker the STA.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Harold said:


> One note. Reach is a frame dimension that's more relevant to a standing position. It's the horizontal distance from the bb to the head tube. Reach on its own has nothing to do with STA. It's not as relevant to seated position.
> 
> Seated position is described more by the ETT. And these bikes only differ by 2mm.
> 
> STA is going to describe the relationship between Reach and ETT. The closer the two measurements are together, the steeper the STA. The farther apart, the slacker the STA.


Thanks, I had that wrong. The 1-inch difference I (tape) measured is from the center and top of the seat tube to the center of the stem. Apparently, this is a non-geo distance. I was trying to measure from the saddle to the stem. The bikes do have different STA s so I understand that will make a difference in the distance to the saddle.

Do you see any significant geo/size differences that will affect bike fit?

Thanks.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Harold said:


> One note. Reach is a frame dimension that's more relevant to a standing position. It's the horizontal distance from the bb to the head tube. Reach on its own has nothing to do with STA. It's not as relevant to seated position.
> 
> Seated position is described more by the ETT. And these bikes only differ by 2mm.
> 
> STA is going to describe the relationship between Reach and ETT. The closer the two measurements are together, the steeper the STA. The farther apart, the slacker the STA.


OK, I tape measured carefully from the top center of the steerer (stem bolt head) to the back of the saddle. Trek is 27.75 and Rise is 28.0. Both bikes are running 50mm stems and the same Bonty Arvada saddle.

FWIW.

This afternoon I'm going to ride the bikes back-to-back up and down the street and compare "feeling."


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

elder_mtber said:


> Thanks, I had that wrong. The 1-inch difference I (tape) measured is from the center and top of the seat tube to the center of the stem. Apparently, this is a non-geo distance. I was trying to measure from the saddle to the stem. The bikes do have different STA s so I understand that will make a difference in the distance to the saddle.
> 
> Do you see any significant geo/size differences that will affect bike fit?
> 
> Thanks.


a steeper STA will raise your butt higher above the bb (and, by extension, the ground). without correspondingly raising the grips, this _will_ have the effect of tipping you more forward on the bike. this is what I and others have experienced with needing to adjust how we hold our bodies to ensure that our wrists are straight, elbows bent, and our core is engaged to support our torsos.

the only thing that sortof describes this effect is the STA, and somewhat indirectly.


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## Al Fong (Oct 20, 2021)

Because of your bad back, you're probably leaning on the bars to absorb some of the trail vibration. You can get away with it on smooth easy trails at slow speed, but you have to get off the saddle when things get rougher or faster. As a veteran, you obviously know that, and I struggled with the same issue for quite a while and tried most of the recommendations posted here: adjust the bar ht., saddle position, change the grips and get a softer handlebar. Each of those things helped a tiny bit with the wrist pain, but didn't help me ride better cuz the problem wasn't the bike, it was my riding position. First I tried light hands/heavy feet, with the foot wedge-heel down on the lead foot and toe down on the rear. That helped with going otb, and I thought I should be able to let the bike move around under me, but still too much hand pressure and couldn't truly separate myself from the bike. Then I tried straighter legs and hinging at the hips rather than bending the upper back. The straighter upper back and hip hinge also helped, but I didn't need straighter legs. Then one day, I tried bending/lifting my elbows more and it all came together. With a slight bending and lifting of the elbows and upper arms, it was harder to lean on the bars and I found myself using my legs more and hovering over the center of the bike with no pressure on my hands/arms. Even tho this arm bend lowered my upper body more towards the bars, there was way less pressure on my hands as I was using my legs and torso for support, rather than the arms. You have to consciously choose to use your legs more, or you will likely default to leaning on your arms to take pressure of bad back, however flexing the elbows and raising the upper arms make the choice easier as it's more difficult to support your upper body with bent arms. Also making the choice easy will be how much better you will ride when you feel yourself separate from the bike and are able to easily let the bike roll over terrain without you getting pushed around thru your arms, and freely maneuver the bike into the angles you choose. This moderate elbows out position, with relaxed arms and chest, and flat lower back allowed me to really separate my body from the bike and easily absorb undulations, rocks and roots with my legs and hips, lean the bike left and right in the corners, and keep my balance on slippery terrain when the bike skids under me. I had the ride of my life the day I discovered this, and I'll never forget it. Hope this helps.


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## grabek (Aug 4, 2006)

My concern: is frame to small if you have to move the saddle back on rails not because of increasing the reach but saddle/crank position?


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## Ptor (Jan 29, 2004)

pedalinbob said:


> I'm in the minority here, but I despise steep STA.
> I know there are certain advantages, but our trails are very pedally, and I have very long femurs, so steep STA are very uncomfortable for me.


I believe pedalinbob has this nailed — I’m in complete agreement. I‘ve solved my “steep STA” problem (and my 4 year-old bike‘s STA isn’t as steep as bikes being made today) by putting on a setback dropper (9point8 fall line). That allowed me to get my hips far enough behind the bottom bracket to effectively support my body while in the saddle. Lots of handlebar height and stem length adjustments were tried before that, but it was the setback behind the bottom bracket that was the solution. My wrists thank me every ride…


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

elder_mtber said:


> Yes, new bike. 2022 Orbea Rise M20 Large. Regular bike is 2017 Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 Medium. I have not tried to look up measurements like top tube. I could do that, though.
> 
> Thanks for input.


You went from a short reach to a long reach, why?

If you were comfortable on your old bike, I'd set up a new bike the same. If you want to make changes, do them incrementally, move your seat up/down, fore/aft 5mm at a time.

You're just too stretched out, so the best you can do with the new bike is slide your seat forward and shorten your stem.

As I've gotten older, I find my comfort is best on a shorter bike with a higher bar position.

If you can, I'd swap your bike for a smaller one.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

elder_mtber said:


> mikesee, good to hear from another veteran here. Higher, and maybe shorter, is what it "feels like" to me.


Umm, we're on the old rider forum ... most of us are veteran riders 

Mike's not that old, he's just grumpy like an old man


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> You went from a short reach to a long reach, why?
> 
> If you were comfortable on your old bike, I'd set up a new bike the same. If you want to make changes, do them incrementally, move your seat up/down, fore/aft 5mm at a time.
> 
> ...


I'd like to try that but just not possible - as long as I am married. Ha, ha.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> You went from a short reach to a long reach, why?
> 
> If you were comfortable on your old bike, I'd set up a new bike the same. If you want to make changes, do them incrementally, move your seat up/down, fore/aft 5mm at a time.
> 
> ...


Oops, I made a reply error.

I'd like to try that but just not possible - as long as I am married. Ha, ha.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Yeah, my banker would frown at that too 

Shortest stem possible, 32mm, then adjust the seat to get the best fit.

Low seat and high bars will shorten the distance you have to stretch.

Take some measurements from you're other bike: BB center to bar center, nose of seat to bar center, use spacers, shorter stem, and seat position to approximate the fit off your old bike.

I'd do the stem swap first: Amazon.com : 35mm stem mountain bike


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## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

I don't think screwing around with stem, bars, etc is the answer

I assume you're talking about riding on flat terrain.

If you have too much weight on your hands, lower your torso and bend your elbows. You should be able to ride without any weight on your hands.

Try it

Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

rod9301 said:


> I don't think screwing around with stem, bars, etc is the answer
> 
> I assume you're talking about riding on flat terrain.
> 
> ...


He's an elder rider, ie he' s been around bikes for a while, he was also comfortable on his other bike, so it's only the new longer bike that's causing a problem.

So yeah, he probably knows all the tricks ... you're speaking to the choir.

He got a bike that's probably too big, he needs to make it smaller, hopefully he can make it small enough.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I probably have a 35mm stem lying around, if the bars are 31.8. I'm about 100% sure of this, as I think I saw it in my spares bin yesterday. Come to think of it, I might also have a PNW bar lying around too.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> Yeah, my banker would frown at that too
> 
> Shortest stem possible, 32mm, then adjust the seat to get the best fit.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'm working on those fit changes. Ordered a higher rise handlebar. It's coming from England. To Overland Park, KS. Basically, the center of the USA. 

Was looking at some of the stems from your link (thanks). $22 to $92.❗ I believe in good parts and tools and bikes and stuff but don't want to get gouged. Might get the $22 if I can overcome my concern that it is unsafe. No way ever on the $92.😊


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

dysfunction said:


> I probably have a 35mm stem lying around, if the bars are 31.8. I'm about 100% sure of this, as I think I saw it in my spares bin yesterday. Come to think of it, I might also have a PNW bar lying around too.


Bars are 35mm. Thanks for the thought.


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## elder_mtber (Jan 13, 2004)

rod9301 said:


> I don't think screwing around with stem, bars, etc is the answer
> 
> I assume you're talking about riding on flat terrain.
> 
> ...


Cannot do the no weight on either bike, but closer on the Trek. Have to sit up near straight for no hands. I've got a much higher rise bar coming. Let's see what that does.

Thanks.


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## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

elder_mtber said:


> Cannot do the no weight on either bike, but closer on the Trek. Have to sit up near straight for no hands. I've got a much higher rise bar coming. Let's see what that does.
> 
> Thanks.


No, you need to bend over and bend your elbows till you feel no weight on your hands.

Technique and strength instead of bandaids

Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk


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## Stewiewin (Dec 17, 2020)

elder_mtber said:


> On my mountain bike, I definitely feel like there is too much weight on my hands, especially when seated and maybe riding an easy, smooth trail.
> 
> Are my bars too low?
> Wrong stem, need shorter?
> ...


maybe seat is at max


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## WhiteDLite (Mar 4, 2016)

So I bumped my seat back a good bit on a 78 STA and I believe it helped tremendously. So worth scooting seat back for sure. I think it even helped the the hot spot I was getting since switching to clipless.


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