# Heavy weight Clyde with biking history



## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

I am a 55 year old 5'8 and 445 pounds. My inseam is only 28 inches.
25 years ago I was a high mileage rider with an average of 300 miles a week doing a metric centery each weekend. We'll I obviously let life and my love of food take over.
I have lost 30 ounces and want to get my love of biking in my new lifestyle but haven't looked at bikes in a while.
I am looking to get an entry level (not a Huffy or toy bike) and ride it till it can't take any more and then upgrade. Do this a few times and work my way into a nice ride knowing that I will be hard on the bike.
Any recommendations? 26" wheels I would guess and maybe a 17" frame or so I guess. What does the equate to, a medium frame?
I am very capable of building/maintaining a bike as I use to build bikes a lot so upgrades are not a problem as things break and yes wheels will be an upgrade but I want something to give me a good start.
Budget..........Going to need to stay under $500. Thanks for any input.
Dano


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I think your biggest issue will be keeping wheels intact. I would recommend something like a hybrid, or (and I usually don't recommend this to road riders), but maybe a 29er MTB because it will be built for some abuse. The 'abuse' will be from your weight (not meaning to insult you) rather than hard riding so to speak. I know $500 isn't a lot to work with, but I think you need to start somewhere, and somehow, some way, you'll make it work.

This here is a type of bike that has only recently become more popular, and might be something that could work for you. The tires only take 8-12psi and act as the suspension of the bike, and could be something that would hold up while you get this part of your recovery. Right on budget too!

Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity Bullseye Monster


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

jeffj said:


> I think your biggest issue will be keeping wheels intact. I would recommend something like a hybrid, or (and I usually don't recommend this to road riders), but maybe a 29er MTB because it will be built for some abuse. The 'abuse' will be from your weight (not meaning to insult you) rather than hard riding so to speak. I know $500 isn't a lot to work with, but I think you need to start somewhere, and somehow, some way, you'll make it work.
> 
> This here is a type of bike that has only recently become more popular, and might be something that could work for you. The tires only take 8-12psi and act as the suspension of the bike, and could be something that would hold up while you get this part of your recovery. Right on budget too!
> 
> Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity Bullseye Monster


The fat bike is what I have been looking at over e past couple days.
I was looking at the Mongoose Dolomite and it seamed to get some good praise at the price point but will need some upgrades. It looks like the Gravity you inked may be a better bike for he mony...

With that said, I see alot of al aboutthe off road plusses of fat bikes but what about on road? Is there a big disadvantage in rideability or a massive difference in rolling resistance makeing it too much harder to get around town?

Thanks
Dano


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I own a dolomite, and the rear axles are made of cheese. It's a freewheel system, and everybody I know who doesn't baby it has bent an axle. And after the required upgrades, it's closer in price to the bullseye monster. The fatbike listed above is a good bike for the price, and since you like working on bikes, any online bought bike will work OK. I always have reservations on recommending bikesdirect or other online bike store bikes to those who are not mechanically inclined.

However, any new bike in the $500 range isn't going to be all that good. I'd honestly recommend finding a used mountain bike that is at least 8-speed (freehub axle, which is stronger) and riding it for a while. If you want to ride on roads/gravel/asphalt, just look for any old mountain bike. If you want to ride on trails, save some money and get a better bike.

As an alternative to the above bike, this one would be good also, for much less $. Setting up the drailure for 7-speed is easy, and I've heard some people had luck with 8-speed without doing anything or simply putting in a 1mm washer. You can also swap the front tire out for a 4" fatbike tire like the bullseye has.
BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping

If you find a bike with a suntour XCT suspension fork, walk away. It won't be strong enough for your weight, in regards to rotational flex. It uses 28mm stanchions (walmart bikes usually have 25mm). The XCM and XCR are better and have 30/32mm stanchions, but I'd still recommend a rigid fork for now. And at least 2" tires. Hybrid bikes are nice, but are usually limited to about 1.5" tires, which can still be bone rattling. 2" and larger tires are just more comfortable.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ok tried to get the Gravity Bullseye Monster but no 16" available in any color much less that lime green color I wanted. They have an 18 in flat black but the stand over is just under 31" and I have a 28" inseam at 5'8".

I checked out that Gravity Knockout for $299 and they even have a 16" green one with a few small scratches on the fork and scuffs on the crank for $269. The flaw in the design doesn't even bother me but wish I could find some reviews on it to know if it is better than the Dolomite....
I have seen some Surley's on ebay but getting up in the $800-$900 range once it gets here. The LBS has a used Trek mountain bike for $200 but it has a front shock fork and I want a solid fork


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

It's definately better than the dolomite. If I wasn't 6'5", I'd get one. Even the largest is still too small.

a couple links on it. A lot of the complaints are the standard "bikes direct sucks" sort of stuff. They're not as good as Surley, Salsa, or Trek of the world, but they don't cost as much either. For the price, they can't be beat. the second link is more about rat-rodding the bike, but it still has some good insight on the frame and tire clearance.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatbikes-under-$1000-bucks-937739-5.html#post11825461
Check out these $150 shipped Fatbike frames! | Rat Rod Bikes


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

DanoR59 said:


> The LBS has a used Trek mountain bike for $200 but it has a front shock fork and I want a solid fork


you can ask them if they would swap out the suspension fork for a rigid fork. they're cheap and they probably have one sitting around they could throw on for little to no $. even if they don't have a fork in stock, they can order one for less then $75, making it a good deal as long as you think the frame will hold up and the wheels won't need to be replaced immediately.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

So many decisions.......

the LBS has a Trek 4200 coming is on trade from the owners riding buddy (he is moving up) so after the weekend that will be available for $250 plus tax and the cost of a solid fork.

OR

I could get the Gravity Knockout with disc brakes and fat 3" tires for $269 shipped.

What is a guy to do? On one hand the trek would have better rolling tires (due to the Fat Tire size right?) but it is used but they will go through it before I take it.

For primarily road riding while I am shedding pounds I am thinking the trek may be a better choice and then come winter I could get darn near as much for the Trek as I paid and get into a higher level Fat Bike for the snowy weather and after building some endurance.

Am I mistaken that the fat bike will be a slower harder ride at first?

thanks guys


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

For road riding, where speed is a priority, I'd agree with the Trek. Although I personally think you could find a cheaper used bike that's already got a rigid fork. The Trek is OK, but nothing that special if you're just riding roads. Also, I doubt you'd get that much for the trek when you sell it. Assuming it is probably getting a markup at the shop, you might be able to get $100 to $150 when you sell it, unless it's traded for credit at the same shop. You should be able to find a good used 90s mountainbike for under $100.

If you want to loose weight, and the main purpose is loosing weight, the Knockout will put up a fight. Air the tires up and it'll be easier, but still not easy. Also, it's not about the width of the tire, it's about the tread. You can put 3" cruiser tires on it, and the knockout will roll like crazy.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Flame-Tires-Black/dp/B00QHA3CZW


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Well the long plan is to do some light to medium trail riding but that will be a couple bikes away of course.

OK I figured the footprint would make a difference but I will need to put some smoother non off road tires on for now in either case.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just saw this thread elsewhere on the site. Somewhat applies to putting regular mountain tires on a fat bike rim. They're discussing 2" tires on 80mm rims, which I think is a litle wide, but the knockout has 50mm rims, so it should work much better. any 2.2" tire or larger should work just fine on a 50mm rim. You would lower the height of the bike a lite bit, so like one of posts mentioned, be careful pedalling around corners.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/running-26-x-2-semi-slicks-80mm-fatbike-rims-971612.html


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ok I took the plunge.
I ordered a 16" Gravity Knockout in mint green. It had scratches on fork and a scuffs on the crank so they took an extra $30 off making it $269 shipped.
I don't see how I could go wrong.
What's the opinion out there about the wheels. The local bike shop will do a detailed tune on the wheels for $25 each. You guys think it would be worth it? Maybe just the rear?

I wish the rims weren't white but I'll live.

Now to wait for delivery.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

i dig it. 

i wouldn't recommend the "detailed" tune. is that more elaborate than truing them? I would have them checked real quick to make sure they are true and spokes are properly tensioned, but paying $50 is ridiculous. I'd do it quick for you for $5 a wheel, or even free for a friend or regular customer. 

these kind of rims don't see the kind of stress a normal wheel sees. the wide rim and tire are more forgiving on wheel parts. 

the only thing that scares me on a bike like this is the brakes. clean them up real good, pads and rotors, before you use them. they're likely contaminated with grease or oil and it will be nearly impossible to get them to work properly. consider removing them and hitting them with a blowtorch to burn off the crap, also eliminates the need to "bed in" the pads. 

also check every nut and bolt for tightness before you ride. there may not be any grease in the BB or the pedals, or the seatpost, or anywhere else it is supposed to be. probably not shocking information here, just going over the basics. i know some of these issues exist, i bought a BD bike last year. just do a thorough job during assembly. 

save your $50, buy a comfy saddle, and enjoy the new ride... and include pics when it arrives.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

I use to build my own wheels 20 some years ago. If I am just checking for uneven tension I can handle that. I plan on taking everything apart and greasing everything. Thanks for the brakes info. We didn't have disc brakes back then. I even thought about painting taping off the nipple and painting the white rims. I may not but the white I don't care for.
Yes a seat would be a better investment and maybe some smooth tires.

Can't wait.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

BENKD29 said:


> i dig it.
> 
> i wouldn't recommend the "detailed" tune. is that more elaborate than truing them? I would have them checked real quick to make sure they are true and spokes are properly tensioned, but paying $50 is ridiculous. I'd do it quick for you for $5 a wheel, or even free for a friend or regular customer.
> 
> ...


When you say to use a torch are you talking about the pads and how much do you toast me?

Would a degree set sprayed all over the pads and rotors do the job?

Do you guys have a favorite grease, chain lube, cable lube?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Just heat them up high enough to burn off any oil. some people throw them in an oven, but you must have a very forgiving wife to do that. I normally hit them with carburetor cleaner a couple times. Not as good as cooking them, but it works. I haven't had any brakes from bikesdirect come to me contaminated, but still not a bad idea to clean them in principle. 

For grease, I use marine axle grease (for boat trailers) because it's more of a waterproof grease and it's dang cheap from harbor freight. You can also get Park tools bearing grease. It works good too, just more expensive. It does have a much better applicator nozzle. the harbor freight stuff just comes in a mini grease gun tube and you get it all over your hands. That's what they make soap for though.

I'd also spring for a wider handlebar. The stock one is steel, and a good quality 750mm wide aluminum alloy one is only about $30 on amazon.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

torch them till they de-gas. that's the important part of bedding in brake pads. (same for automotive brakes.) by default you will burn off any oil or contamination. just get them good and hot, don't try to melt them. 

a degreaser could work, but you will still have to bed in the pads which requires multiple runs going down a LONG steep hill doing repeated hard stops. torch is faster/easier, and if your taking things apart anyway... 

i recommend park grease, but for most things any old grease will do. 

chain lube will be specific to your region. i live in upstate NY and ride in a variety of dirt, dust, mud, wet, snow, you name it. I use Dumond Tech (the blue one), so do friends, no complaints. 

any old cable lube will do. 

I also agree with Watts888 that wide bars are great, but unless your doing some serious offroading and downhill 750mm may be overkill. plus i'm not sure how long your arms are and or how wide bars effect riders shorter than me? maybe 700-720 would be better? not sure how wide stock bars are?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

Has it come in yet?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I wouldn't use degreaser. Much more likely to leave behind some solvents. Get some brake cleaner spray if you want to squirt the pads.

I'd just bed them in by riding around. If you don't much in the way of hills, just hold them on while you're riding and pedal against the drag here and there. You'll feel them getting stronger within a short while.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

WooooooHoooooooo it's here. Came in in great shape. I got it for $269 shipped ($30 off) due to "scratches on the fork" and yes I see the marks but it wasn't anywhere need as bad as I was expecting.
This thing is beautiful. The best way I can describe the color is it's a pearl frost mint color. I didn't think I would like the white rims but I do and the black sores are cool.
Everything it clean, well made and a cool looking bike. Did not have a pump at my coffee shop so couldn't test ride yet but will.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Pics


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Pics


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Couple more pics


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## Barman1 (Jan 8, 2014)

Nice, and I like that color. :thumbsup:
Have fun Dano.


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## AndyMc2006 (Mar 12, 2014)

Nice, that should keep you moving for a while.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

I really like the looks and feel of the bike but haven't been able to take her for a quick ride due to finding my pump shot. I already ordered wide bars, some good pedals and a set of grips. Wanting to put some Maxxis 2.5 wide slick tires.
Now I need to find a good blog spot for my journey.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Pump recomendasions ?


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## bigflamingtaco (Oct 26, 2013)

Sorry I'm late to the game here!

Having been through this, albeit starting at about 50lbs lighter, I can tell you there will be many a broken spoke in your future. You are lucky that the front wheel is 32h. Mine was 28h, and after about two years I'd had enough of averaging a snapped spoke on the rear wheels every month, and 3-4 on the front each year. Most oem wheels are rated for 180Lb riders, so you see where that leaves us. Not much to be done except keeping after the tension and replacing them when they break, until you are ready to build up some durable wheels.

My breaking point was the first time I rode a trail. I was down to 360 at the time, had ridden hard for a year and a half, was up to a 17mph average on my road rides, and was running out of gear on sections of the trail. I knew that I would have to build stronger wheels for the bike to survive off the beaten path.

When you get to that point, there are previous year parts-o-plenty to build up a strong wheelset on the cheap. I laid down less than $400 and had my shop build up a set of Mavix 729's on a rear 36h Saint and front 32h XT.These wheels don't care that I'm hitting jumps on the trail at 370Lbs. Not a single complaint.

I originally never considered actually mountain biking, but figured the wider flange separation in the rear made for a stronger wheel. As I was riding on the road only at the time, I picked up a set of Geax Evolutions since I woundn't wear the snot out of the Kenda Nevegals in a month. They have turned out to be very solid tires for both road and dry trail. I have not yet had a flat in four years and 4k miles.

Crank... If you start riding the trails while still above 300, and the bike came with a tapered crank, you are going to want to swap that out for a Deore crank that won't budge under the weight. They are $39.99 at Jenson right now.

If your hands hurt, a pair of gel padded gloves and some bar ends for additional positions helps a lot. I removed the grips for a while and wrapped bar tape over a single strip of bar tape where my hands put pressure on the bar. I used this trick to get though double centuries without numb hands back in the day, and it helped a lot until I strengthened my hands and shed that initial 50 lbs. Now that Oury has lock-on grips, that might be an easier to install option. I hear they are really comfortable. Ergonomic style grips might also work well, but they scream old person bike to me, and I'm not ready for that.

I was kneeing myself in the gut twice every stroke, and that was forcing my knees out a bit, so that my feet pointed out, and therefore my heels were striking the chainstays. I got tired of fiddling with my foot position contstantly. A set of pedal extenders solved that. I have wide feet, so someone with narrower feet may not experience this issue at all. I also picked up a shorter stem with a taller angle. This helped with both the sore hands and knee to the belly issue.

Good luck!


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

DanoR59 said:


> I really like the looks and feel of the bike but haven't been able to take her for a quick ride due to finding my pump shot. I already ordered wide bars, some good pedals and a set of grips. Wanting to put some Maxxis 2.5 wide slick tires.
> Now I need to find a good blog spot for my journey.


Just start a new thread under the motobecane forum (I know it's not a moto, but it seems everything from bikesdirect ends up there anyway) once you get some rides in. Show pictures and let us know how it goes.

Were you able to get the 8th gear to work, or didn't even try?

Also, you can fit a full blown fatbike tire in that fork, so when you get down to a comfortable weight and want to really hit the trails, I'd just throw a 4" up front and go to town.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Thanks for joining in Big flaming taco. 
I figure there will be issues with certain things on the bike but I accept that and will keep on top of the wheel situation.

Other than the upgrades I already ordered I do want to change the seat. Back in my healthy racing days I rode Brooks saddles and I want to do the same. Just trying to deside on the model. The spring seats look great but I am not sure they will handle my weight or just bottom out.
I do have access to an old Brooks large rivet model but it's been sitting out and it will sag and slit more than likely.
We'll just got done with my opening shift at my coffee shop so time to go get a pump so I can take the first test ride.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

I just noticed the seat that comes on the Gravity Knockout is a woman's WTB Speed She saddle.

Maybe I will go grab that brooks and check it out.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Traded even up for Brooks. It's in wonderful shape with Pre Softened in seat and large rivet. Brooks Professional onside.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Here is the first info on the clearance problem with 8th gear and rear frame triangle.
The chain is oh so close to the frame. Not a curly touching but I would think under hard acceleration it could. I will get a washer and see if that will help and still maintain the axle in the drop out enough. If not, limiting the travel with the stop screw should work fine. 
The other concern is the other side of the frame. I haven't ever had disc brakes before but the clearance between the outer edge of the rotor and the frame is almost nonexistent. I tried to shoot a pic but was hard to show it. A washer on that side could take care of that also if needed but again wondering if the axles ends will be long enough to safely set in the frame.

My wheels both have small hops in them. Yes I am being picky but they are not perfect by any means.

I have trouble loading pics. I have tried and tried. The others took a bunch of tries the other day. I will try again after posting this.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

*Disc spacing*

Too Close or Normal?


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

That's mighty close. The disc shouldn't wobble though, so if it clears now, I think it'll be OK. Just keep an eye on it. Worst case, bend the rotor just a tiny bit inwards all the way around.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

The wheels have a wobble not the disc.
I just can't believe That it will hold that tight clearance over time. Going to return it and move on.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

But now what to do. Almost to the point of breaking down and buying a new Trek for $499. Or there's the Gravity Monster fat bike.......
Or maybe that used Specialized Crossroads with all new parts is still available for $200.
Specialized Crossroads Hybrid Bike 19"/48cm 21Speed Free Delivery


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## bigflamingtaco (Oct 26, 2013)

Or, you can buy used. I picked up a year old Trek 4300 for $280 that had been ridden a handful of times on paved paths, and once on a smooth dirt trail. Dealer wanted $670 for the new model. Divorce sales are awesome.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

bigflamingtaco said:


> Or, you can buy used. I picked up a year old Trek 4300 for $280 that had been ridden a handful of times on paved paths, and once on a smooth dirt trail. Dealer wanted $670 for the new model. Divorce sales are awesome.


Yes that would be sweet. Not many bikes for sale around here. $500 for the Gravity Bullseye Monster isn't horrible but the wait til mid or late July for it to ship would be tough or the Gravity Bullseye for $450 ready to ship would be cool (monster has 4" tires the regular Bullseye has 3") but I am afraid of ending up in the same position I am now. I hate this, I was so ready to start my journey.
I even have parts coming but they will be good on any bike I end up with.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

wait, so the wheels are out of true a little, and the rotor has little clearance, so your scrapping the bike!??

did you try to true up the wheels? remember, these are cheap wheels and are pinned rims, not welded, they are not going to be perfect looking. they also will not see the kind of stresses and abuse that a normal wheel will have to endure due to the rim width and fat tires. tensioning the spokes properly should make the wheel plenty strong.

I've seen fat rims bent to hell with a big wobble in them and the rider had no idea it was like that until we just happen to have the bike in the shop and put the wheel in the truing stand. granted it was a welded Surly rim but just an example.

my BD fatbike came with tight clearance on the rear rotor too. getting the rear wheel in and out of the frame caused some scraping of the paint on the chainstay on the disc brake side the first time or two till i noticed the problem. i think it's a common design flaw on these bikes.

i checked mine and it looks like i may have a tiny bit more room than you, but i wouldn't scrap the whole bike based on that alone. the rotor is bolted to the hub and not going to move over time.









this is a cheap bike, if you return it and buy a different cheap bike you are likely to run into similar, but different, problems. you just have to kind of work through them and take it as it comes. you can't expect perfection at this price point.

if this is the bike you want i encourage you to try and make it work before giving up so quickly.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

BENKD29 said:


> wait, so the wheels are out of true a little, and the rotor has little clearance, so your scrapping the bike!??
> 
> did you try to true up the wheels? remember, these are cheap wheels and are pinned rims, not welded, they are not going to be perfect looking. they also will not see the kind of stresses and abuse that a normal wheel will have to endure due to the rim width and fat tires. tensioning the spokes properly should make the wheel plenty strong.
> 
> ...


I understand about the wheels. If that was the only things I feel like it's no big deal and I am ready to work through the "Cheap Bike Blues" but the clearance is just too tight. If I put a piece of paper between the rotor and frame it will mark and almost cut the paper.

I tried shimming the axel on the brake side and the clearance was about an eight of an inch which was fine but the rotor drags on the pad and the wheel has resistance rolling. I have not looked real close but I didn't see any place to adjust the position of the caliper.....Is there an adjustement normally? Now that I am writing this maybe there is an adjustement I missed.............. This would make my day, more like my week. Alls I need is a 16th to an 8th of an inch.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

yeah, there is no individual pad adjustment but you can move the caliper. (higher end brakes do have individual pad adjustments like Avid BB7's)

just losen the caliper mounting bolts till it wiggles freely, then grab the front brake lever hard. while holding the lever, tighten the caliper bolts a little at a time alternating bolts until tight. then release the brake lever. sometimes you have to do it 3-4 times to get it right.

if the pad still contacts the rotor a tiny bit after you get it the best you can, the rotor is slightly bent or warped. this is very common and easily fixed.

get a crescent wrench and put it on the rotor where it is contacting the pad. you want the wrench to just barely fit on the rotor. gently pull the rotor which ever direction you need to. it doesn't take much to move them. do a couple of gentle pulls and check by spinning the wheel. then a couple more if needed and check again.









you can google it or just check out youtube for a video if my instructions are crappy.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

BENKD29 said:


> yeah, there is no individual pad adjustment but you can move the caliper. (higher end brakes do have individual pad adjustments like Avid BB7's)
> 
> just losen the caliper mounting bolts till it wiggles freely, then grab the front brake lever hard. while holding the lever, tighten the caliper bolts a little at a time alternating bolts until tight. then release the brake lever. sometimes you have to do it 3-4 times to get it right.
> 
> ...


Good news. Got home and found the block adustmenŕs that will answer all the concerns . Bad news heading to a funeral till Monday so can't fix it till I get back


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

I was kind of sad to hear you were planning on returning it, especially after I advised getting it. Sorry about that. If you are keeping it, there are a lot of adjustments that can be made to get it right. just let us know what's bugging you about it, and we probably can give recommendations or idea to try. 

For the wheel hop, make sure the tires are actually centered on the rim bead. Sometimes, fat bike tires don't want to seat quite right. I had to use a ratchet strap once to get one to seat.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

watts888 said:


> I was kind of sad to hear you were planning on returning it, especially after I advised getting it. Sorry about that. If you are keeping it, there are a lot of adjustments that can be made to get it right. just let us know what's bugging you about it, and we probably can give recommendations or idea to try.
> 
> For the wheel hop, make sure the tires are actually centered on the rim bead. Sometimes, fat bike tires don't want to seat quite right. I had to use a ratchet strap once to get one to seat.


Watts, the problem I had you had no idea was going to be there. 
Let me start by saying no one was as bummed as me about returning it. Your recommendation was perfect.
I knew about the 8th gear problem and I shimmed that side and it fixed the 8th gear clearance problem but due to the change in the rear triangle pushing toward the disc (which is what pointed out the rotor clearance problem, causing the brake disc to rub on the frame. After removing the shims found the minute clearance. I tried shimmy both bur the caliper was out of line with the disc and I had no idea that there was a lateral adjustment. So it looks like when the funeral weekend is over I will get to set all right with the Gravity.
I traded the woman's saddle it came with for a Brooks Professional saddle with the big rivets that one's I conditioned and cleaned it found it to be in wonderful shape and close to new. I have an order coming with some sealed bearings platform pedals, 760 wide bars to trim for a custom fit nice grips.
Love building bikes. It's been a long time and new style as technology but still love it and like to get things as smooth as pose.
I will say this also. Bike Island was nothing but help full and offered to send me a label to send it back without hesitation which I am glad I didn't.
I did get a chance to watch 2 videos and read an article about setting up mechanical disc brakes so when I get home I will be ready to re pack the rear wheel bearings and get everything installed and set. Then the front and head set get greased. Bottom bracket is sealed so it's good.
Ride time!!


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Ok been thinking. 
The rear axle would be much stronger if I was willing to put in a solid axle and give up the advantage of the quick release. I need to add the length of the total of 4 stainless washers (2 easy side) and two nuts and lock washers.
I will have to add a wrench to my flat kit but I think the strength would be worth it and I would still have to replace the axle either way due to the spreading of the frame from shimmed.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Got home from my brother in laws (wife's brother) funeral and got straight to work on bike.

We'll the solution I thought I had figured out did not work. There is not enough side to side movement available in the caliper mount so I brought everything back as it came. Tweeted the rotor and set the brakes up as shown on line. I am going to see how she does for next day or so but bike Island already sent a replacement frame set so when it gets here I will put the rear wheel in an see if there is more space for the rotor. 
I got in my package of parts while I was gone so mounted the new 762 bars with new comfort grips and put some bar ends I had around on them. Man these bars are wide but I have a wide reach so going to try them for a while before trimming them.
Put on my nice all metal sealed bearing platform pedals and water bottle cage. Looks cool, did I say bars are WIDE?
I will post some pics liter but the site won't let me upload photos from my phone for some reason.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Replacement frame came in, in lighten speed. Put the rear wheel in frame and a nice 3/8" spacing. Now I will start switching parts to the new frame and service every lube and adjustment.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

DanoR59 said:


> Ok been thinking.
> The rear axle would be much stronger if I was willing to put in a solid axle and give up the advantage of the quick release. I need to add the length of the total of 4 stainless washers (2 easy side) and two nuts and lock washers.
> I will have to add a wrench to my flat kit but I think the strength would be worth it and I would still have to replace the axle either way due to the spreading of the frame from shimmed.


Actually, the hollow tube axles are really strong. I'd stick with the QR axle. Plus, axles in this length are a pain to find. They are a bike specific thread pitch (m10x1.0) and trying to find axle cone nuts in the 1.25 metric fine thread pitch is almost impossible

Does the new frame really require all those spacers on the brake side, or is it looking better? I'd also high recommend you not bend the frame. Steel frame, not a problem. Aluminum frame, can quickly become a problem.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

No spacers required at all for the disc to clear with plenty of room. I have not put the chain side together so I am not sure about the chain rub yet but I am just going to adjust the limit screw so I will be running it as a 7 gear rear as expected.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

I got everything greased and parts switched over to replacement frame.
Bike looks great and everything fits as it should. Going to take her out in the AM for a quick ride to see how she feels about my weight and make final tweets. 
I have a feeling that 5 he stem will be replaced with a shorter one and of course I already put the 762 bars on Jr with bar ends. I may end up pulling the bar ends but I had them so I put them on.
MY maxxis 2.5" road tires will be here soon and I will mount them but otherwise I THINK SHE IS READY.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Finished project.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Another pic.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

Took the bike out for a run down the block.
Couldn't hardly get foot on top of pedal when in the top position. Yes flexibility will need to improve but other than that she rode smooth as silk. Being use to touring bikes in the past had me feeling award on this thing and the tires felt wired to me being use to small smooth high pressure tires.
wondering if a 175 crank is too long or should I just work on it.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

shorter crank really won't gain much, 5mm is barely worth it. If your seat is where you need it for height, you should be able to get your feet all the way around the pedal stroke.

What pressure are you running the tires at? Should have a high pressure listed on the tire. If they seem slow rolling, I'd take the pressure up to about 10-15 psi below the max and see how it feels.


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## DanoR59 (Jun 14, 2015)

watts888 said:


> shorter crank really won't gain much, 5mm is barely worth it. If your seat is where you need it for height, you should be able to get your feet all the way around the pedal stroke.
> 
> What pressure are you running the tires at? Should have a high pressure listed on the tire. If they seem slow rolling, I'd take the pressure up to about 10-15 psi below the max and see how it feels.


Running at 25 psi.

Once I got my foot on the pedal I could pedal ok just getting it up there was tough.


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## watts888 (Oct 2, 2012)

couple weeks in. How's the knockout going? Have you swapped tires, and if you did, what did you get and how much clearance between the tire and frame?


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