# Somewhat new to mountain biking



## vw_ev (Dec 22, 2009)

Hey guys,

I bought a 2008 mongoose blackcomb last year from the axis of evil, aka walmart.  I am not by any means a hardcore MTB'er yet, but am interested in picking it up and getting more serious with time. I purchased this bike more or less out of a LACK of commitment. I want to make sure I like this before I jump into the deep end and fork over 2-grand on a real mountain bike. The blackcomb is just a trasher bike for now.

I am well aware of everyones bitter distaste towards box store bikes. I am not disagreeing with you but ask that you give me some realistic expectations. My body is 5'11, 155 lbs. So I'm not too heavy. What kind of trails can I tackle with this? Maximum height on jumps etc?

I have ridden the bike around the street, dropped it off curbs etc... easy stuff, just to see how the bike responds. It feels solid and not sketchy. I then went on some local FS road's in my area at about 15 mph hitting some moderate rocks and getting maybe about a foot or two of air. Still held up just fine. I checked everything afterwards... welds, frame, bottom bracket, seat post, chainstays etc for damage/bending. Nothing. I checked the rims for bending... nothing, still true.

What would you say a realistic limit to this bike would be? Im afraid to take it any faster than what I have been doing out of gut feeling. 

Thanks


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Trust your gut feeling .


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

I had a Wallybike for years and I rode it HARD. It did fine. I wouldn't try taking it to a terrain park of anything. Singletrack w/ some friends would be your best bet.
I wouldn't try tackling anything beyond your skill level no matter what bike you have under you.
Try putting some better tires on it if you have the dough. It will improve your ride greatly. Maybe a new seat. The stock seats on them are junk. I had a Bell on mine. Nothing fancy.


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

^^ what he said.....sage advice. :thumbsup:


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## dhoffroad (Oct 5, 2009)

yea just go ride it. I started out riding a walmart bike, a Mongoose Snare, I too didn't want to spend the money on a bike till I was sure I wanted to get serious about riding. I put a few hundred miles of singletrack on that bike, I never did any big jumps on it but just your "basic" trail riding. the only problems I ever had with that bike was the brakes seemed to always need to be "adjusted". then when I figured that I wanted to keep riding and it was time to get a "real" bike I sold it.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Yeah be glad you have a bike; and go out and enjoy the fresh air.

Don't let anyone try to convince you to buy really expesive components to make it a better bike. It is what it is. And no $700 Crankset will change that. Save your money for when you feel like your skills have improved enough to where you need a better bike.
Those improvements I mentioned earlier will only improve the feel of your ride. Not make it a better bike.
Welcome to Mountain Biking:thumbsup:


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

don't get hurt on that bike now tho..

btw did you see any stickers on that bike that said not intended for off road use? i think that includes any type of trail riding. If the manufacturer of the bike suggests not doing it, i wouldn't do it!


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## ncblue (Nov 12, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> I had a Wallybike for years and I rode it HARD. It did fine. I wouldn't try taking it to a terrain park of anything. Singletrack w/ some friends would be your best bet.
> I wouldn't try tackling anything beyond your skill level no matter what bike you have under you.
> Try putting some better tires on it if you have the dough. It will improve your ride greatly. Maybe a new seat. The stock seats on them are junk. I had a Bell on mine. Nothing fancy.


This is sound advice, and is exactly what I am doing with my DS Schwinn. Add some good tires and a seat and ride the heck out of it.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Yah know I never understood that. Why make a bike that looks as if it is designed for off road, and then put a sticker on it saying the exact opposite??? Why make a full sus. bike that can't do more than the city sidewalk?? I believe my old Wallybike may have had one of those stickers but I ignored it and took that b*tch off along w/ the other warnings.
I believe it all boils down to liability. They know that one day it will break. And some bumbAss kid is going to take it out and try to pull off a Superman or something and get killed. CYB (cover your butt)


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## vw_ev (Dec 22, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome :thumbsup: 

im getting a general vibe that I should stick with the easy stuff for now lol. fair enough...

ive been eying the new kona dawg deluxe for awhile, and im thinking she will be the one i'll be getting eventually. anything to look out for with the dawg? 

p.s. i didnt notice any sticker saying i couldn't take it off road...ill try and find the manual... thats pretty hilarious :shocked:


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

That sticker can normally be found on the Top Tube; near the handle bars. I'll check my GF's bike and see if it has one. If it does I'll take a pic of it and post it.


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## dhoffroad (Oct 5, 2009)

the only sticker my 09 mongoose snare had was on the fork. and it's the only sticker that my wifes 09 mongoose status has on it.....


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

I wouldn't take it off of anything I wouldn't call a small drop or jump. Again, use your head, be safe and remember that bike has pieces on it that may not be so durable. You seem to understand the appeal of more expensive bikes, which is good. I would just add on that the temptation is there to want to upgrade your bike; but just put enough money into it to keep it riding until you can afford an upgraded bike. Have fun!


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Huh, never seen one quite like that one. But, of course I never read them. I peel them off then grab the GOOF OFF.
I wonder what they would define "Leisure Cross Country" as?? Did it come with a DVD of examples??? I think they mean something akin to the park where mothers push there stollers around to work off the baby fat. Do you really need suspension forks for that??? No, i don't think so.


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## vw_ev (Dec 22, 2009)

I found the sticker but it doesnt mention anything about not using it as a mountain bike... I took a picture (sorry its fuzzy, took it with an iphone)


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

That looks just like the on on my GFs Schwinn. Could you post a pic of the whole bike?? We could give you alot more advise from that.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Here it is:










Here's a linky if you want a closeup:

https://walmart.scene7.com/walmart/...goose Blackcomb Mountain Bike&categoryid=4171

It's a Wallygoose wannabe.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Hmmm. Ok. I can't tell from the pic, but make sure that the Hanger for the Rear Derailer is replacable. You should be able to tell because it will be a different color than the frame. If it is not I would be very careful. I had a Mongoose XR-500 that didn't have a replacable hanger and this summer it picked up a stick and broke the frame. Unrepairable. My frame is now trash.
The pedals look decent. Good thing they are not plastic.
Take off that CheapAss kick stand.
Keep and eye on the Crankset. the teeth might get bent or broken if you dig them into a fallen log on a trail.
If you want to save on a little weight you can cut some of that seatpost off. or buy a new one. Just make sure if you cut it you have at least 88mm of post in the seat tube. I wold suggest upgrading it. You can get a TITEC Hellbent made of 7075 Aluminum for about $20 at Cambria Bike.
The handlebar grips look like they wouldn't give you much to hold onto. Upgrade. You can get some for around $10 at a bike store.


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## vw_ev (Dec 22, 2009)

Drakken, thanks for the suggestions, i appreciate it. 

Yep, thats the beast above, lol

Per your suggestion Drak I took off the kickstand and all of the reflectors on the rims. The stock tires that come with the bike look decent enough... i dont know how they'll hold up though. They are tubed tires. I don't think I'll be upgrading anything on the bike except for maybe the seatpost like you said. I read some forum posts where people bent it over on even 2 foot drops, lol. So for safety reasons I might get something beefier. 

As for the rest, would you throw money into this bike if it were yours? honest question... i was just planning on riding it till it broke, whether thats one week or a year from now. Can some of the upgrade parts if I were to get them be transplanted onto a better mountain bike when I get that someday? If so that might be worth it.


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## JPark (Aug 12, 2009)

vw_ev said:


> Drakken, thanks for the suggestions, i appreciate it.
> 
> Yep, thats the beast above, lol
> 
> ...





> i was just planning on riding it till it broke, whether thats one week or a year from now.


Do this, and save upgrade $ for a better bike:thumbsup:


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

vw_ev said:


> As for the rest, would you throw money into this bike if it were yours? honest question...


Honest answer, no.



vw_ev said:


> Can some of the upgrade parts if I were to get them be transplanted onto a better mountain bike when I get that someday? If so that might be worth it.


Again, honest answer: yes you could transfer upgraded parts, but I wouldn't recommend upgrading. A suggestion is to fix small wear and tear things on this bike (worn/blown tires or tubes, brake pads, a brake or shifter cable, etc) and ride it until something expensive is needed, develop your skills and conditioning, take time to determine if you actually want to mountain bike, and if you want to move on and up, buy a solid quality bike from an LBS or at least an online retailer.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Like I said before. I rode a Mongoose much like that one for 9yrs. The upgrades I suggested *are* the things i would do if it were mine. They are not nessesary, but they will improve how the bike feels while riding it. 
As for the tires. There is nothing wrong w/ tubes. I ride tubes.
Not all parts will transfer. Take the seat post for example. It may be a 27.2mm and the one on your new bike (which ever you might pick in the future) might be 30.9mm. It will not switch over. Although sometimes you can buy a shim; but i have never tried that.
Ride it until it falls apart. You'll be happy that you have something to ride.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

wtf upgrade a walmart mongoose? you guys forreal? those things are a million pounds, rust like a *****, derailleurs don't work well, brakes constantly need adjustment and things just break. Bike shops also HATE working on them and will not give the dedication that they would normally give a better name brand bike.

If you're stuck on riding that then ride it until **** breaks, but you risk hurting yourself along the way. just because one person on these forums say they rode a mongoose doesn't mean you're all safe to go. The general consensus is that they are not even as good as the base level bikes from Spec, Cannondale, Trek, Giant, Marin, etc. I would not put my trust in those bikes. But if you do ride it and get hurt, best of luck to you in the recovery process

If you can, sell it. and buy another bike that you can trust.


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## JimC. (Dec 30, 2003)

*Never mind the*

warning sticker, it doesn't mean anything. Ride whatever and wherever you wish.

Permission for 6'+ jumps is here


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

vw_ev said:


> As for the rest, would you throw money into this bike if it were yours? honest question... i was just planning on riding it till it broke, whether thats one week or a year from now. Can some of the upgrade parts if I were to get them be transplanted onto a better mountain bike when I get that someday? If so that might be worth it.


Nah, when you're ready to buy a new bike, it's already going to have nice parts on it (unless you're buying a frame and building your own bike).

So if you dump money into better parts for this bike it will just delay when you can afford to get a nicer bike.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Oh, hey. Great! You could give him your bike *Or* the 2k for a nice one. either of which he would be pleased w/.
I think *if *he had the money in the first place he would have bought a "real" bike. were talkiing about someone who doesn't have the $. At least he wants to get out and ride. It would be nice if people were more supportive of that.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> Oh, hey. Great! You could give him your bike *Or* the 2k for a nice one. either of which he would be pleased w/.
> I think *if *he had the money in the first place he would have bought a "real" bike. were talkiing about someone who doesn't have the $. At least he wants to get out and ride. It would be nice if people were more supportive of that.


if he had the money in the first place, (which he did, he had $$$ for this bike) he would've still bought that bike because he was uneducated.

nobody is giving him a bike, nor money for a new one, thats his job. by "get out and ride" do u mean off road? because that can seriously be dangerous when hes landing a jump or his pedals hit a log and his pedals snap off the crank and he hurts himself, or when his wheels taco on a big hit and he faceplants.

we're supportive of riding, just not of doing stupid things. such as going against what the manufacturer recommends. If the people that know the bike the best say not to do something, don't do it; they know more than you.


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## Jason B (Aug 15, 2008)

vw_ev said:


> I don't think I'll be upgrading anything on the bike except for maybe the seatpost like you said. I read some forum posts where people bent it over on even 2 foot drops, lol. So for safety reasons I might get something beefier.


Umm, how about for safety reasons, don't do 2 foot drops on a bike not designed for it. :thumbsup:


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

louisssss, lay off and stop trolling these threads :madman:


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

mwc1 said:


> louisssss, lay off and stop trolling these threads :madman:


instead of you telling people to ride those mongoose bikes that ARE NOT MADE FOR OFF ROAD USE, on trails which are OFF ROAD? rft:8:::::::::::: D


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Hey louisssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss,

here's just a big, fat, sloppy *FYI*: not all wallygooses and tarschwinns have the said sticker you keep frothing over nor do they have any such warning in the owner's manual. Perhaps they actually built the bike for some offroad use, do ya think? How do I know this? I have actually looked at various bikes and manuals instead of simply posting here trying to look like some authority. Go the f*** outside and ride your bike.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

I am not sure why people are jumping on Louisss just because he is telling you things you don't want to hear. He is 100% correct - that is not a mountain bike. It was not built to ride off road, it was not built to handle the abuse of moderate trail riding, and it was certainly not built to withstand any kind of drop. Bikes like this are designed to LOOK like mountain bikes because that is what the kids they are purchased for usually want. They will never hit a trail, but they want to look like they have a beefy bike when they ride down the sidewalk with their friends. 

Look at some of the facts about this bike:
*it weighs almost 50 lbs
*it has single-walled rims
*all steel components (stem/bar/post/etc)
*it comes with a kickstand (bikes designed to go off-road have warnings NOT to ever equip kickstands because of the severe dangers they pose in mountain biking situations)
*it was not assembled by professionals

Reading the various reviews across the web for this particular bike are a great indicator of its intended use. Nearly all of them comment on the atrocious shifting and braking. Several say that it was great on the pavement but as soon as they took it off road the wheels went way out of true and most of the bikes bearings loosened up. There is one guy who claims he routinely does 20 ft jumps with it though.....he must be one hell of an e-biker.

The part about being assembled by walmart is also critical, as they do not have trained mechanics putting their stuff together. Before I would even dream of taking this bike on any surface it would need to be fully tuned by a bike shop to ensure 1) it is safely assembled (proper torque on bolts etc...loose crap on the trail is not fun) 2) it is properly adjusted for safety (brakes, seat post, etc...) 3) it is properly adjusted for performance (shifting, suspension although I do not believe this bike has adjustable suspension). This will cost you 50-60 bucks but is absolutly necessary if you intend to ride the bike in any situation other than coasting in your driveway.

Long story short, you could spend 3k upgrading every part on the frame and it would still weigh 40 lbs and not work well in trail conditions. If you really want to MTB, your best bet is to try to sell this for $200ish and then put that money towards an entry level bike from a bike shop. A shop will fit you correctly, back up their product, and keep you riding safely with good performance. Putting money into this bike would be a complete waste.

This will never be a real mountain bike, so if you insist on riding it offroad just do so until it breaks and you get hurt. A good analogy is the venerable Pontiac fiero. Back in the day you could buy a kit to make a cheapo ponitac fiero look exactly like a ferarri. No matter how much it looked like a super car it still drove like a POS pontiac.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Malibu412 said:


> Hey louisssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss,
> 
> here's just a big, fat, sloppy *FYI*: not all wallygooses and tarschwinns have the said sticker you keep frothing over nor do they have any such warning in the owner's manual. Perhaps they actually built the bike for some offroad use, do ya think? How do I know this? I have actually looked at various bikes and manuals instead of simply posting here trying to look like some authority. Go the f*** outside and ride your bike.


hey dickface, i know its not a good mountain bike. you think otherwise, take a pic of your new mongoose when you get one so i can laugh my ass off.

and its cold, i prefer not to ride now


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

Use it till you bruise it and then learn from your mistake. 

Ignore the internet goblins. :thumbsup:


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

apat13,
its not what he says, but how he says it......what several of the posters here have done is to encourage the OP to enjoy his bike. i don't think that anyone is advocating that its the most wonderful or capable bike that can bomb any downhill trail....quite the contrary, that its is acceptable for "beginner" trail riding......i've see several posters admonish the OP to be reasonable in his/her expectations on the bike, make sure its safe, or other positive comments as to some inexpensive mods to make the bike more efficient/enjoyable......

then comes the other types of response (typified by louissssss) that have a obvious tone that condescends or demeans beginners who dare to post about their dept. store bike acquisition....maybe not so much in this thread, but is several others....

why is sooooo hard for some "experts" here to accept that fact that some people could EVER possibly enjoy riding a dept store bike? some comments even monger fear as if to intimidate such begginners from even mounting their new ride for fear/embarassment of it falling apart as soon as it hits the dirt.....to me, this is a disservice to new riders. if this is all a rider can afford, then lets not drop the gate on him before he even gets started, i'd rather educate and encourage a new rider than watching the "thought police" rend him and his choice of bike......


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

louisssss said:


> hey dickface, i know its not a good mountain bike. you think otherwise, take a pic of your new mongoose when you get one so i can laugh my ass off.
> 
> and its cold, i prefer not to ride now


I bet you have a hard time wiping your ass. Your type makes me laugh my ass off. :thumbsup:


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

louisssss said:


> don't get hurt on that bike now tho..
> 
> btw did you see any stickers on that bike that said not intended for off road use? i think that includes any type of trail riding. If the manufacturer of the bike suggests not doing it, i wouldn't do it!


To be fair to louissssss, his first post was not condescending or rude. In fact, this gets right to the heart of the issue. This bike is not intended for real off road use. That is not to say people cannot or have not done so and enjoyed it, just that the bike is not designed to withstand the abuse and as such there are safety issues. On the question of upgrading the components the fact that the bike is not designed for the rigors of off road makes it a real waste of time and money. Would you try to turn a ford fiesta into an off road machine by upgrading all its parts or would you save the money and put it towards a jeep?


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

mwc1 said:


> apat13,
> its not what he says, but how he says it......what several of the posters here have done is to encourage the OP to enjoy his bike. i don't think that anyone is advocating that its the most wonderful or capable bike that can bomb any downhill trail....quite the contrary, that its is acceptable for "beginner" trail riding......i've see several posters admonish the OP to be reasonable in his/her expectations on the bike, make sure its safe, or other positive comments as to some inexpensive mods to make the bike more efficient/enjoyable......
> 
> then comes the other types of response (typified by louissssss) that have a obvious tone that condescends or demeans beginners who dare to post about their dept. store bike acquisition....maybe not so much in this thread, but is several others....
> ...


just telling it like it is, if you can't handle the truth, get out of a forum... do you expect people to encourage you and say you've made the right decisions throughout life? we're not here to baby the OP, he posted asking for opinions about his new bike, we gave it. if you disagree with me, lick it


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

mwc1 said:


> then comes the other types of response (typified by louissssss) that have a obvious tone that condescends or demeans beginners who dare to post about their dept. store bike acquisition....maybe not so much in this thread, but is several others....


Oh, I'd say so much in this thread:



louisssss said:


> wtf upgrade a walmart mongoose? you guys forreal? those things are a million pounds, rust like a *****, derailleurs don't work well, brakes constantly need adjustment and things just break. Bike shops also HATE working on them and will not give the dedication that they would normally give a better name brand bike.
> 
> If you're stuck on riding that then ride it until **** breaks, but you risk hurting yourself along the way. just because one person on these forums say they rode a mongoose doesn't mean you're all safe to go.


louissssssssssssssssssssssssssss, if you actually were a reader, you would notice in post 22 of this thread that I do not advocate upgrading this bike but rather ride it in a limited fashion offroad, fix minor stuff that breaks and learn some basic offroad skills. I don't ride a department store bike although I did buy a couple for my kids while they were growing up and growing fast. I wouldn't buy a dept store bike now but I know some feel money is tight or they are reluctant to step up to a quality bike for fear they may not like offroad biking. I have never said this is a proper way to get into mtb riding but for those who have gone this route, I'd rather encourage them to move in a safer and more positive direction rather than condescend and belittle. You have your way and I have mine. To each....

BTW, you're a pu*** 



louisssss said:


> and its cold, i prefer not to ride now


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Go get him Guys.
For your information I rode one of those bikes for 9yrs. and never had a problem until my rear derailer broke. I'm sure your Mommy told you to use the crosswalk but do you??? Everytime???? Do you go halfway down the block just so you can cross the street or do you wait for a chance and take it???
And YES, there is a very good possibility that it could break and he could get hurt. But I am hoping that he has enough DamnSense to not try any serious trails on that bike. But I do not think that the thing will dissolve after riding threw a puddle. I'm sure it is ok to go riding out at the park or on a gravel road. Jumps or DownHill. Definetely not!


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

mwc1 said:


> apat13,
> its not what he says, but how he says it......what several of the posters here have done is to encourage the OP to enjoy his bike. i don't think that anyone is advocating that its the most wonderful or capable bike that can bomb any downhill trail....quite the contrary, that its is acceptable for "beginner" trail riding......i've see several posters admonish the OP to be reasonable in his/her expectations on the bike, make sure its safe, or other positive comments as to some inexpensive mods to make the bike more efficient/enjoyable......
> 
> then comes the other types of response (typified by louissssss) that have a obvious tone that condescends or demeans beginners who dare to post about their dept. store bike acquisition....maybe not so much in this thread, but is several others....
> ...


Thak you so much for your well thought out and insightful comments??
Your words made me aware of something that most of us may not have noticed. If Louissss is such a "pro" what is he doing in the Beginers Corner? I suppose it's the only way he can feel any sense of superiority amongst his peers.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

I agree w/ you whole hearted. And when I suggested minor upgrades I did not mean for the OP to run out to the store and pick them up. Over time, after getting some experience, that's when I would pick up things like new tires or a seat post. And even then,,,,Buy On Sale.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> I agree w/ you whole hearted. And when I suggested minor upgrades I did not mean for the OP to run out to the store and pick them up. Over time, after getting some experience, that's when I would pick up things like new tires or a seat post. And even then,,,,Buy On Sale.


yo man what kind of seatpost would you recommend for this 2009 Mongoose Blackcomb?
i want to upgrade my mongoose bolt!


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## nankerphelge (Jan 21, 2008)

*Wal-Mart bikes.............*

...................my biggest concern would be safety issues. In other words - ride it, enjoy it, don't put money into it, but most of all don't get hurt. The fact that it was not assembled by a professional can certainly be a bad thing. It was built by someone who just doesn't know what they're doing. As an example it is not uncommon at all to see bikes on the floor at wally world with the front fork installed backwards. That being said, let me tell you this: Mongoose makes some of the baddest a** mountain bikes on the planet. You just can't get them at Wal-Mart:


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Not all Walmarts have some pimple faced mouth breather putting bikes together. Or atleast 10yrs ago they didn't. I have a cousin who used to work for HUFFY. And his job was to go to all the Walmarts in the region an put bikes together. All bikes together. He had all the bike shop tools and had to go to training for it. Just so you guys know. As for backwards forks.... I have seen some of those in Mtn Bike Magazines. I think that is so they can use them on 29ers. Or maybe the don't have an outsider put their bikes together anymore.
PS Those are some nice looking Mongeese dude


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> Not all Walmarts have some pimple faced mouth breather putting bikes together. Or atleast 10yrs ago they didn't. I have a cousin who used to work for HUFFY. And his job was to go to all the Walmarts in the region an put bikes together. All bikes together. He had all the bike shop tools and had to go to training for it. Just so you guys know. *As for backwards forks.... I have seen some of those in Mtn Bike Magazines. I think that is so they can use them on 29ers. * Or maybe the don't have an outsider put their bikes together anymore.
> PS Those are some nice looking Mongeese dude


orly, so those bike mechanics at walmart, they purposely install forks backwards on their mongoose and huffy mtb's so that their hardcore users can install 29ers on them?
cool didn't know that


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> As for backwards forks.... I have seen some of those in Mtn Bike Magazines. I think that is so they can use them on 29ers.


I'm sorry , but you are speaking of things that you have little to no knowledge of .


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Q: Would I advise someone that is looking for a mountain bike to shop for and buy one from Walmart?
A: No. I think there are better choices available for most people in most circumstances.

Q: Would I advise someone to absolutely not ride their Walmart bike offraod?
A: No. There are bikes all over the world that are far more fragile that will only see offroad use in their lifetime. I would tell them it's not wise to do a lot of jumping on it, but if they want to ride it (moderately) on XC trails, I wouldn't tell them not to.

The bike will not spontaneously combust, just don't thrash it really hard, replace what breaks with modestly better parts and start saving now for something sturdier since it is apparent you do like the activity. 

If there is nothing wrong with the current seatpost, leave it be. However, most department store bikes all come in more or less the same size (medium or 18"+/-), You, at 5'11", are most likely a little too big for that bike to fit you correctly. If you are wanting a new post that is longer because you need the seatpost higher, it's likely because the bike is too small for you. Another reason to see this bike as a short term solution while you look for a bike that is built for harder use and is the proper size for you.

Tires, OK, those are something you could always use on another bike and won't be a waste of money on the Walmart bike. Good move to remove the kickstand as they can flop down when you hit a bump and cause you to lose control.Also, most department store bikes all come in more or less the same size (medium or 18"+/-), You, at 5'11", are most likely a little too big for that bike to fit you correctly.

So, while the OP's situation is not ideal, it's not anywhere near dire either. Realize that your bike is not a sturdy as it could be and it is likely too small to be most efficient for you. But if that's what you've got for now, ride it and enjoy it until you are able to upgrade the entire bike.

Cheers


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

AZ.MTNS said:


> I'm sorry , but you are speaking of things that you have little to no knowledge of .


+1. I am also very curious how Drakken managed to ride a 2008 model bike for 9 years....


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

apat13 said:


> +1. I am also very curious how Drakken managed to ride a 2008 model bike for 9 years....


i think he states he used to ride bike "like" the blackcomb (ie a walmart model).....its a xr-500 (see post #20)


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

mwc1 said:


> i think he states he used to ride bike "like" the blackcomb (ie a walmart model).....its a xr-500 (see post #20)


I know, I was just taking a jab at a guy who's short post history is rife with gross misinformation, uniformed opinion, and technical ignorance.


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

apat13 said:


> I know, I was just taking a jab at a guy who's short post history is rife with gross misinformation, uniformed opinion, and technical ignorance.


whoa, a bit harsh....didn't have coffee yet this morning?


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Nobody really cares and keeps track of walmarts mongoose bikes they all suck even compared to the base entry level bikes from trek spec or cannondale


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## mwc1 (Sep 21, 2009)

hmmm, thats odd louissss....if you're not keeping track of success/failure rate of mongoose bikes, then how can you broadly generalize and claim that "they all suck" compared to entry level treks and c-dales?


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## 1998 schwinn (Jul 2, 2009)

Ride it on some easier trails...fire roads etc to get use to riding generally. Then maybe consider picking up something on craigslist or ebay that is lighter and more aggressive as you gain experience. It's a great to get a good solid fram set and components. Also, you should look around at the trails and ask questions when you ride. Biker are more than willing advice after a ride to newer riders.

Keep reading the threads...been riding 20 years now and I've learned a lot since joining.

I started on a hand me down low end Spec. hardrock rigid (too big for me evenand suntour thumb shifter...sore thumb shifters) back when and I rode it hard for 2 years chasing my friends with nicer rigs and more experience around the trails. You will really appreciate your next ride and it will be nice to say "I remember when I rode that???????


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

AZ.MTNS said:


> I'm sorry , but you are speaking of things that you have little to no knowledge of .


All we need to do is set him to PMing everyone with a Manitou and informing them their fork is installed backwards.:thumbsup:



mwc1 said:


> hmmm, thats odd louissss....if you're not keeping track of success/failure rate of mongoose bikes, then how can you broadly generalize and claim that "they all suck" compared to entry level treks and c-dales?


All you have to do is look at them to figure that out. The best Walgoose would still worse the lowest from the big 4. Louissss isn't the brightest and is a bit of a Special Ed fanboy but his point is still valid. There is no point upgrading that type of bike if you plan to continue MTBing. That money would better used toward buying a used entry level bike. You may not like the idea but unless someone informs them of the differences and limitations of the toys they will not know better.

Can they continue to ride it? Of course but they need to understand the limitations for there own safety.


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

I think Louis has multiple personalities and doesn't know what his other half wrote previously.


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## 1998 schwinn (Jul 2, 2009)

*good points all around*

So many people start mtbing b/c it looks cool or their friends are into it until they realize it's alot of work in the beginning to develop good riding skills. The expense of the bike is nothing compared to a really bad injury.

The obvious theme from all the advice in this thread, no matter the approach we've taken, is that we are concerned for safety (esp when it comes to jumps and drops etc) and there is no doubt that a quality bike makes a difference.

I put my 5 yo in a quality haro bmx 16" from my lbs with training wheels. At 6, he flies in this thing (no training wheels) and I expect to spend $300 plus for his first alloy 20" mtb soon from my lbs (the gary's seem nice for kids but can't find one used anywhere)

It seems that most people who really take to the sport move on rather quickly from big box bikes anyway. HAVE FUN!:thumbsup:


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Remy Darke said:


> All we need to do is set him to PMing everyone with a Manitou and informing them their fork is installed backwards.:thumbsup:
> 
> All you have to do is look at them to figure that out. *The best Walgoose would still worse the lowest from the big 4*. Louissss isn't the brightest and is a bit of a Special Ed fanboy but his point is still valid. There is no point upgrading that type of bike if you plan to continue MTBing. That money would better used toward buying a used entry level bike. You may not like the idea but unless someone informs them of the differences and limitations of the toys they will not know better.
> 
> Can they continue to ride it? Of course but they need to understand the limitations for there own safety.


isn't that exactly what i said?? That any bike from walmart regardless of price doesn't even compare to the base bikes from S,CD,or Trek. by keeping track, i meant nobody cares about the models of which mongoose is what @ walmart. Not like we care that the Cannondale F3 is better than the Cannondale F5, etc.

no i'm not exactly a S fanboy, i'd easily take a CD or a Trek any day over my RH. My lbs just couldn't offer me as good of a deal as they did for my bike ($200 off msrp, tax free + some other perks for buying from them)


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

louisssss said:


> isn't that exactly what i said?? That any bike from walmart regardless of price doesn't even compare to the base bikes from S,CD,or Trek. by keeping track, i meant nobody cares about the models of which mongoose is what @ walmart. Not like we care that the Cannondale F3 is better than the Cannondale F5, etc.
> 
> no i'm not exactly a S fanboy, i'd easily take a CD or a Trek any day over my RH. My lbs just couldn't offer me as good of a deal as they did for my bike ($200 off msrp, tax free + some other perks for buying from them)


Yes it was which is why the reply was directed at mwc1 who seems to take offense at any attemp to explain the difference between department store toys and Mt bikes whether it be informative or sarcastic.

That may be the case but you've come off as quite fanboyish in alot of your posts.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Remy Darke said:


> Yes it was which is why the reply was directed at mwc1 who seems to take offense at any attemp to explain the difference between department store toys and Mt bikes whether it be informative or sarcastic.
> 
> That may be the case but you've come off as quite fanboyish in alot of your posts.


not a fanboy to anything other than good bikes for the money!

i was actually a a hair away from buying a cannondale F4 instead of my RH. 
today, i'd gladly upgrade my bike to a cannondale f3.


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## buryurfear14 (Mar 6, 2009)

apat13 said:


> To be fair to louissssss, his first post was not condescending or rude. In fact, this gets right to the heart of the issue. This bike is not intended for real off road use. That is not to say people cannot or have not done so and enjoyed it, just that the bike is not designed to withstand the abuse and as such there are safety issues. On the question of upgrading the components the fact that the bike is not designed for the rigors of off road makes it a real waste of time and money. Would you try to turn a ford fiesta into an off road machine by upgrading all its parts or would you save the money and put it towards a jeep?


:lol:

Google "Ford Shogun"

not saying he should mod the walgoose, just thought it was funny you used the fiesta.


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

louisssss said:


> not a fanboy to anything other than good bikes for the money!
> 
> i was actually a a hair away from buying a cannondale F4 instead of my RH.
> today, i'd gladly upgrade my bike to a cannondale f3.


You'd have to get an F1 for it to be an "upgrade" but the question would be why? The geometry of the RH and the F series is almost identical and unless you're in love with a lefty you'd be better off sticking with what you have. You ride mostly flat singletrack?


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Remy Darke said:


> You'd have to get an F1 for it to be an "upgrade" but the question would be why? The geometry of the RH and the F series is almost identical and unless you're in love with a lefty you'd be better off sticking with what you have. You ride mostly flat singletrack?


lefty > reba in performance and weight
styling of CD > RH subjective

yes, i will gladly take a cannondale f1 also


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

louisssss said:


> lefty > reba in performance and weight
> styling of CD > RH subjective
> 
> yes, i will gladly take a cannondale f1 also


Barely in weight(2 ounces). Lefty has a bit more travel than the Sl. Peformance wise it's a toss up. The carbon Lefty was pretty impressive in stiffness though.

Styling? You mean lack of? Go for a Scalpel or Rush.:thumbsup:


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

Remy Darke said:


> Barely in weight(2 ounces). Lefty has a bit more travel than the Sl. Peformance wise it's a toss up. The carbon Lefty was pretty impressive in stiffness though.
> 
> Styling? You mean lack of? Go for a Scalpel or Rush.:thumbsup:


more like half a lb.

LEFTY SPEED w/DLR - 3.01 lbs http://www3.cannondale.com/suspension/10/index.html
2010 Reba SL Dual Air - 3.58 lbs http://www.sram.com/node/45/brand/rockshox/src/fam

the lefty is about the stiffest fork on the market

and like i said, styling is subjective.


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## mudlover71 (May 20, 2006)

Remy Darke said:


> You'd have to get an F1 for it to be an "upgrade" but the question would be why? The geometry of the RH and the F series is almost identical and unless you're in love with a lefty you'd be better off sticking with what you have. You ride mostly flat singletrack?


I don't think louisss rides anything other than pavement. Look at the armadillo tires in his sig. Just because he has a mt.bike doesn't make him a mountainbiker


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

Hmmm That's quite a weight loss from last years. I spent a week on a Scalpel 1 and was pretty impressed with the stiffness of carbon Lefty but not so much the suspension characteristics.



mudlover71 said:


> I don't think louisss rides anything other than pavement. Look at the armadillo tires in his sig. Just because he has a mt.bike doesn't make him a mountainbiker


Yeah, that could be very well true. How bout it louisss?


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

mudlover71 said:


> I don't think louisss rides anything other than pavement. Look at the armadillo tires in his sig. Just because he has a mt.bike doesn't make him a mountainbiker


nope its just an addition over my stock parts, i keep my stock tires for trail riding. 
maybe i should add your mother to my signature


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## Blksocks (Dec 22, 2009)

louisssss said:


> nope its just an addition over my stock parts, i keep my stock tires for trail riding.
> maybe i should add your mother to my signature


It seems you're not much of a thinker and couldn't come up with something witty for a reply so resulting to middle school insults shows who you are.

Nothing.

Louissssssssssss is now known as "Loupiss" See what I did? and I didn't need to drag your mother into this nonsense.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Well....*



mwc1 said:


> hmmm, thats odd louissss....if you're not keeping track of success/failure rate of mongoose bikes, then how can you broadly generalize and claim that "they all suck" compared to entry level treks and c-dales?


I'm ignorant of specific failure rates of any brand of bike. Generally however, I would say that bikes that have a warning label indicating that they're specifically not intended for off-road use "suck" for mountain biking as compared to entry level bikes that are specifically intended for off-road use.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*^^Agree^^*



jeffj said:


> Q: Would I advise someone that is looking for a mountain bike to shop for and buy one from Walmart?
> A: No. I think there are better choices available for most people in most circumstances.
> 
> Q: Would I advise someone to absolutely not ride their Walmart bike offraod?
> ...


This is a solid response. I agree.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

I'm not saying That. Just that about 10 yrs ago, they used to hire people in to put bikes together. Now, they probably just grab someone and hand them some tools and tell them to put the bikes together. I don't know for sure. Does anyone know anyone that works there??? Maybe they would know.
O'm just going from what I know. That's all.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

apat13 said:


> +1. I am also very curious how Drakken managed to ride a 2008 model bike for 9 years....


I might have hit a wrong key. I ment to type 2000. Sorry if any confusion.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

louisssss said:


> yo man what kind of seatpost would you recommend for this 2009 Mongoose Blackcomb?
> i want to upgrade my mongoose bolt!


I'm new to the bike building thing. But I bought a TITEC Hellbent from Cambria bike for $20. You might want to get some other suggestions from more experienced guys before you buy. But hey, ride the bike first and see how it feels to you. Then decide on what you don't like and see if it is in you budget to fix it. Or if it is even worth fixing. Although alot of guys will tell you "nothing". It's your bike--- Do your own thing.
I'm gonna get blasted for that you know.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

AZ.MTNS said:


> I'm sorry , but you are speaking of things that you have little to no knowledge of .


Maybe I don't know much but if you have the June '09 issue of Mtn Bike mag on page 39 has an ad for the PIVOT Mach 4 and the fork sure looks like it is backwards to me.
But I *never* claimed to know everything.
Also, same thing on page 14 (same issue) for the SCOTT Genius ltd.
Maybe I'm just way off the the mark but it looks to me that the bridge connecting the two absorbers is on the wrong side of the fork. What's up w/ that????


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

apat13 said:


> I know, I was just taking a jab at a guy who's short post history is rife with gross misinformation, uniformed opinion, and technical ignorance.


Your right. I am new to this forum. And new to _High End _Mtn Biking. I never said I was an expert. And If I ever gave any wrong information, I am sorry. Please correct me. But please do so in a informative and respectful manner. 
I do not intend to lead anyone down the wrong path. I just wanted to support fellow riders from those who take enjoyment in making others feel inferior. I did nothing but give my opinion. If the OP does not appreciate that he can skip over my posts. But if you look back he seems to appreciate the fact that I am treating him w/ respect and trying to help.
I will try to leave all the "technical" stuff to those that know better.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> Maybe I don't know much but if you have the June '09 issue of Mtn Bike mag on page 39 has an ad for the PIVOT Mach 4 and the fork sure looks like it is backwards to me.
> But I *never* claimed to know everything.
> Also, same thing on page 14 (same issue) for the SCOTT Genius ltd.
> Maybe I'm just way off the the mark but it looks to me that the bridge connecting the two absorbers is on the wrong side of the fork. What's up w/ that????


:bluefrown:


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

louisssss said:


> not a fanboy to anything other than good bikes for the money!
> 
> i was actually a a hair away from buying a cannondale F4 instead of my RH.
> today, i'd gladly upgrade my bike to a cannondale f3.


But what if you don't have the money?? What if YOU didn't have the money to buy the Whatever-the-hell it is you ride?? Does that mean that you would not ride because you couldn't afford some $4k bike??? Or would you buy something in your budget so you could get out there and ride??? And besides; maybe after 1 season of riding he decides that this just isn't for him. Atleast this way he doesn't have an expensive bike to try to find a new owner for. 
And you all might want to take into consideration that this guy is a beginner and could use your help. (that's why he is here) And I am sure he does not plan on taking his Wallgoose on any of the hard trails that most of you all live on. Atleast I hope for his safety he doesn't.

Not attacking anyone. Just wondering if anyone gave any of this any consideration.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

AZ.MTNS said:


> :bluefrown:


What?!?! Am I wrong? If I am, please inform me of what I am looking at. I don't know as much as you guys do. I got on here so i could learn too.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

If u can't afford $2000 minimum for a good quality car. R u going to buy a shitbox with no airbags for $800? No you don't drive an unsafe car and die with no airbags and unsafe tires. 

So if you don't have enough to purchase a bike that is safe for off road use then I wouldn't buy a bike at all. 

So let's say I only have $250 right now to but a bike. I will NOT buy a shitty mongoose from walmart


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

Drakken_11 said:


> What?!?! Am I wrong? If I am, please inform me of what I am looking at. I don't know as much as you guys do. I got on here so i could learn too.


http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=forks


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Hey, My first car was an '83 celica and it had no air bags, and I loved that car. Up until the day I had a head on collision and my seatbelt bolt broke and my face slammed into the dashboard. I had broken my cheakbone, the floor of my left eye socket blew out and i almost lost my eye. They had to literally roll my face up like a fruit roll up so they could sow it back onto the underlying tissue. And I would love to have another car just like it.

And if a "shitbox" is all I could afford that YES. I would take the shitbox.

And hey, if you would rather sit on the couch while the othere Wallybikers are out there risking life and limb that's your decision. I have no problem w/ that.

But please tell me, why such animosity towards beginners who just want to get outside and ride?? I know we can't afford the nicer bikes, but do we deserve to be treated w/ such hostility??? What did we do to you??? If you don't like Wallybikes, Don't ride one. which clearly you wouldn't. I'm willing to bet (and I may be wrong) you wouldn't even be seen on a trail w/ a Wallybike rider. Not that they should take those bikes on the harder trails that you are used to. Would you not be willing to advise a novice rider and help them w/ the knowledge you have gained??


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*Clarity...*



Drakken_11 said:


> Hey, My first car was an '83 celica and it had no air bags, and I loved that car. Up until the day I had a head on collision and my seatbelt bolt broke and my face slammed into the dashboard. I had broken my cheakbone, the floor of my left eye socket blew out and i almost lost my eye. They had to literally roll my face up like a fruit roll up so they could sow it back onto the underlying tissue. And I would love to have another car just like it.
> 
> And if a "shitbox" is all I could afford that YES. I would take the shitbox.
> 
> ...


You're receiving grief because you're passing your ignorant opinions off as facts in a beginner's forum. People come here looking for qualified asnwers and advice. And you're giving them incorrect answers.

Go here and hear the first couple of posts:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=579035


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Remy Darke said:


> http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=forks


Oh, huh. I didn't know they did that. Thanks.
But may I ask. What is the advantage (if any) to that design??? I never noticed that when i was looking for a new fork. but then again, they are out of my price range. Do other companies make forks like that??
C this is good. I'm learning something.

Yeah, I sure that the Wallybikes that were spoken of did not have those on them.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

AZ.MTNS said:


> :bluefrown:


+1. When I read his description of the brace being on the wrong side first I /piccard, then I /lol, then I /wtf is he joking?, and finally I /omfg he is not joking.....AND he is trying to give advice to others.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

assembled by a walmart "mechanic"...


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

highdelll said:


> assembled by a walmart "mechanic"...


 The fork is backwards .


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## Frosti (Jun 15, 2009)

nice obstacle clearance there. no need for a bash guard now.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

AZ.MTNS said:


> The fork is backwards .


 beat me to it.


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

Drakken_11 said:


> Oh, huh. I didn't know they did that. Thanks.
> But may I ask. What is the advantage (if any) to that design??? I never noticed that when i was looking for a new fork. but then again, they are out of my price range. Do other companies make forks like that??
> C this is good. I'm learning something.
> 
> Yeah, I sure that the Wallybikes that were spoken of did not have those on them.


DT Swiss makes some. The reverse arch is supposed to be stiffer than normal forward arch.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

Remy Darke said:


> DT Swiss makes some. The reverse arch is supposed to be stiffer than normal forward arch.


Manitou didn't start the whole reverse arch thing 2001 or 2002. I was curious about it when I saw it so I called our dealer account rep and asked about it. After a short conversation about stiffness and such, he told me point blank it was done to differentiate themselves from rock shox. I don't have any citations for this, but I remember a bicycle retailer article that tested both arch positions and found there is no difference in stiffness.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Ken in KC said:


> You're receiving grief because you're passing your ignorant opinions off as facts in a beginner's forum. People come here looking for qualified asnwers and advice. And you're giving them incorrect answers.
> 
> Go here and hear the first couple of posts:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=579035


Ok. But what "fact" did I give out. I was sure I was just giving my opinion. And I already appoligized for possibly giving out incorrect information.
But I think maybe you should go after those people who are also not following your own words.
"Act like an adult"
What about those that are rude to people who have come here looking for help???
Do you admonish them as well.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*You're missing the point...*



Drakken_11 said:


> Ok. But what "fact" did I give out. I was sure I was just giving my opinion. And I already appoligized for possibly giving out incorrect information.
> But I think maybe you should go after those people who are also not following your own words.
> "Act like an adult"
> What about those that are rude to people who have come here looking for help???
> Do you admonish them as well.


You haven't come here and asked a question or asked for help. You've given your opinions, got called on your opinions and rather than saying, "my bad" or "I was wrong", you continued to defend your opinion as fact.

And now you're acting like a victim because people became more insistent that you stand down.

I'm not sure how you're contending that I'm not acting like an adult. I'm offering you advice and speaking plainly to you about why people have taken umbrage with your posts. If that offends you, I'd suggest that your skin is too thin to hang out here and dispense wrong answers. Your feelings are going to get hurt.


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## apat13 (Jun 19, 2006)

FYI - any history of working in a bike shop entitles one to be rude to everyone who has never worked in a bike shop.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> Ok. But what "fact" did I give out. I was sure I was just giving my opinion. And I already appoligized for possibly giving out incorrect information.
> But I think maybe you should go after those people who are also not following your own words.
> "Act like an adult"
> What about those that are rude to people who have come here looking for help???
> Do you admonish them as well.


I would quit while I was ahead if I were you . The beginners forum is for the noobs to come ask questions from the more seasoned riders on the board , not ask for opinions from other noobs . If you read the other thread that Ken pointed you towards you would understand . :thumbsup:


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Oh, Well I can see how it would set them apart. But out of curiosity.... Could you put it on a 29er like that. Seems to me that it would create tire clearance.
I know that all that must sound insane to you guys. but is it possible???


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## Remy Darke (Mar 18, 2008)

apat13 said:


> Manitou didn't start the whole reverse arch thing 2001 or 2002. I was curious about it when I saw it so I called our dealer account rep and asked about it. After a short conversation about stiffness and such, he told me point blank it was done to differentiate themselves from rock shox. I don't have any citations for this, but I remember a bicycle retailer article that tested both arch positions and found there is no difference in stiffness.


Yeah that's what I figured too but both Manitou and DT Swiss claim increased strength with the reverse arch. I didn't notice a difference between Manitou and forward arch forks but then I figured maybe I don't ride hard enough. They're all stiffer than the fork I have on my own bike.


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*No!*



Drakken_11 said:


> Oh, Well I can see how it would set them apart. But out of curiosity.... Could you put it on a 29er like that. Seems to me that it would create tire clearance.
> I know that all that must sound insane to you guys. but is it possible???


A 29er requires a fork that has 1.5" more clearance than a 26" bike. Using a fork for a 26" wheeled bike for a 26" wheeled bike will not work.

It's like trying to run 20" tires on 17" rims.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Drakken_11 said:


> Oh, Well I can see how it would set them apart. But out of curiosity.... Could you put it on a 29er like that. Seems to me that it would create tire clearance.
> I know that all that must sound insane to you guys. but is it possible???


a reversed arch does not equal longer lowers


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Ken in KC said:


> A 29er requires a fork that has 1.5" more clearance than a 26" bike. Using a fork for a 26" wheeled bike for a 26" wheeled bike will not work.
> 
> *It's like trying to run 20" tires on 17" rims*.


ahh beat me to it

No need for tire levers tho!!   :nono: :eekster: :skep:


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Ken in KC said:


> You haven't come here and asked a question or asked for help. You've given your opinions, got called on your opinions and rather than saying, "my bad" or "I was wrong", you continued to defend your opinion as fact.
> 
> And now you're acting like a victim because people became more insistent that you stand down.
> 
> I'm not sure how you're contending that I'm not acting like an adult. I'm offering you advice and speaking plainly to you about why people have taken umbrage with your posts. If that offends you, I'd suggest that your skin is too thin to hang out here and dispense wrong answers. Your feelings are going to get hurt.


You are in fact speaking to me as an adult. And for that I thank you. but I did not realize that I had ever stated a "fact". Just my own opinion. I you can show me where I did state a fact I will indeed appoligize and say that I was wrong.
But are you turning a blind eye to those who very vehemently chide someone for their choice in bikes without taking into cosideration their budget, interest in Mtn Biking, or skill level??? And there is alot of attacks all over this forum very similar to these.
I am not attacking you.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Oh, no. That's not what I ment. ummm. It looked as if it crossed over the tire at a lower position, instead at the top of the tire it is lower. THat probably makes no sense at all. Hope someone knows what I ment


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

I do know enough geometry to know that any distance from the center of a circle to the outside will be equal all the say around. But if the headtube angle was steep enough, wouldn't it cross the tire at a different angle.
Wishiing I could draw it out. I'm sure I am proabably wrong about all this.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

apat13 said:


> FYI - any history of working in a bike shop entitles one to be rude to everyone who has never worked in a bike shop.


Sig. worthy .


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

apat13 said:


> +1. When I read his description of the brace being on the wrong side first I /piccard, then I /lol, then I /wtf is he joking?, and finally I /omfg he is not joking.....AND he is trying to give advice to others.


Yes, I was wrong. I admitted that a bit ago. Sorry about that. My bad.


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## highdelll (Oct 3, 2008)

Drakken_11 said:


> *I do know enough geometry to know that any distance from the center of a circle to the outside will be equal all the say around.* But if the headtube angle was steep enough, wouldn't it cross the tire at a different angle.
> Wishiing I could draw it out. I'm sure I am proabably wrong about all this.


what does the HTA have to do w/ anything?

Seems like you're answering your own question in bold...


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## JPark (Aug 12, 2009)

Picture the fork off the bike standing vertically. Would it make a difference which side the arch was on? No, and if you held the tire and spun the fork, it would not change this.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

JPark said:


> Picture the fork off the bike standing vertically. Would it make a difference which side the arch was on? No, and if you held the tire and spun the fork, it would not change this.


exactly, i thought you (drake) knew that it doesn't matter where the contact is on the circle, the distance from the axle is always the same


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

So, let me get this straight. Because I am new I cannot have an opinion, just ask questions. Well then how long before I can have the write to an opinion?? is there a test I must take first of something???


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

Your right. guess it's one of those things that looks like it would work from a certain angle.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

no they're just being internet bullies.

you're allowed to give you're opinion all the time. its a forum

you're just frowned upon when you try to pass your opinion as fact or spread misinformation


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> So, let me get this straight. Because I am new I cannot have an opinion, just ask questions. Well then how long before I can have the write to an opinion?? is there a test I must take first of something???


.......


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

JPark said:


> Picture the fork off the bike standing vertically. Would it make a difference which side the arch was on? No, and if you held the tire and spun the fork, it would not change this.


No, You guys are right. guess I was thinking out of the box or something. Way out of the box. Or I was thinking that if the center of the hub was further out from the frok it might work. Thought it was a wonky idea anyway.


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## Drakken_11 (Dec 21, 2009)

louisssss said:


> no they're just being internet bullies.
> 
> you're allowed to give you're opinion all the time. its a forum
> 
> you're just frowned upon when you try to pass your opinion as fact or spread misinformation


What is this......Support. And from one of it least likely of suspects. 
i will try to do better in the future. Please be patient -all.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Drakken_11 said:


> What is this......Support. And from one of it least likely of suspects.
> i will try to do better in the future. Please be patient -all.


Just one big happy disfunctional family .


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## sponger (May 14, 2006)

louisssss said:


> If u can't afford $2000 minimum for a good quality car. R u going to buy a shitbox with no airbags for $800? No you don't drive an unsafe car and die with no airbags and unsafe tires.


I see what you're trying to say, but I don't think that's a very good analogy. I'll give you that unsafe tires are unsafe --period. But, a car shouldn't be classified as unsafe just because it doesn't have airbags.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

Awwwww


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## Ken in KC (Jan 12, 2004)

*It's perspective...*



Drakken_11 said:


> You are in fact speaking to me as an adult. And for that I thank you. but I did not realize that I had ever stated a "fact". Just my own opinion. I you can show me where I did state a fact I will indeed appoligize and say that I was wrong.
> But are you turning a blind eye to those who very vehemently chide someone for their choice in bikes without taking into cosideration their budget, interest in Mtn Biking, or skill level??? And there is alot of attacks all over this forum very similar to these.
> I am not attacking you.


Facts and opinions are almost interchangable words here because new riders/posters don't know whether the poster giving advice is offering correct or incorrect advice.

Most people (especially new posters) misunderstand most people's advice on big box bike purchases. They're not looking down their noses at anyone's bike. They are pointing out that most mountain style bikes sold at Wal-mart have a disclaimer stuck on them or in the owner's manual stating that the bike isn't intended for off-road use.

When someone comes here wanted to upgrade component on their bikes that aren't intended for off-road use, they often lack perspective. Most worthwhile upgrades will cost more than the total cost of their bike. So rather than spending $300 on a new fork for a $150 bike, the poster would be much better off simply buying a new bike that is designed and built to be taken on singletrack.

You asked me why I've not called out people who are chiding people for their choices on bike purchases. Mostly, it's because I don't usually read or respond to posts after the correct answer has been given unless I feel I have something to add. Or I happen to read the thread because I'm bored and stumble in to it. It's also because new posters haven't figured out how to use the site search function.

Every week the forum receives new posts about which upgrade to perform or which bike within $x budget. I tend not to read those threads at all because 90% of the time, the answer is the same and is provided within the first post or two.

If you stick around, you'll figure out fairly quickly who the e-tards are and who offers solid advice. You'll also learn that regardless of who you are, you should be expected to be called out if you post incorrect information. Owning up to giving poor or incorrect advice (being an adult) results in people moving on. Defending incorrect information will result in the hounds being unleashed.

Speaking of e-tards: Regardless of your mountain biking experience level, everyone is welcome to offer an opinion. But when you're called out, those of us with thicker skin see it as either education or someone correcting our mistake. Those of us who aren't especially bright or who have really thin skin consider the responses internet (sic) bullying.


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