# First real bike. First real ride today. My lessons learned. (pics!)



## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Bought this bike today for $560. Its a 2012 Trek Cobia 29er. Bike looks to be in excellent shape. I think the shifters / deraileurs might need to be adjusted. Im not sure. Ive never owned anythng more than the same 10 speed mtb I've owned since I was 12. (Im 40). (its like a 15" or smaller 84 schwinn ) So I may just need to get used to the shifters. It came with a under seat pack, some tools, a little mini botanger air pump...

Ive never ridden trails, only from building to building at my work, etc. Today was my first trail trip. 
Tidbits from that, and lessons learned. (Im a total noob, FYI) Total ride was ~ 4 miles.

1. My old hockey helmet is not a bike helmet. It gets hot in there.

2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow.

3. The gears on this bike confuse me. I would coast down the hills and lose all my energy before I found a gear for the uphill, often having to stop and push on the steer inclines. Thats not much exercise. I think I need to use the front sprocket / gears more? I dont think staying in the lowest front gear worked as well for me, but Im not really in shape or strong. I REALLY need to learn how to use the gears and mangage pedaling. Being out of shape probably doesnt help, but at times it turned into a series of drift and fail at finding a gear, get stuck halfway up, and push.

4. The seat on this bike SUCKS. Good lord that thing is painful. I read somewhere else that other people had the same complaint. I might get a WTB seat as alot of people seem to like those. Seriously - it feels like sitting on a pipe or something. The seat on my 84 kids size bike is more confortable. My freaking rear end still hurts.

5. Horses DO NOT like bikes. People on horses do not like bikes. I don't really care for large piles of horse crap in the middle of the trail either but we all have to share.

6. Next time, spray myself with off. The flies here this time of year are big enough to carry off small animals.

7. My camelback was a good idea. Glad I already had it. Drinking half of it when I pushed too hard the first leg, wasnt.

8. Holy crap hydraulic disc brakes are awesome. They can really bail you out.

9. Runtastic is a neat app.

10. This could be really fun if I learn how to control the gears on my bike and get a better seat. My biggest issue I think is the transition from downhill back to uphill.

Afterthought - I had to stop about every 1/2 - 3/4 of a mile today. Espeically at the start. I didnt know I was that out of shape. Maybe - also I dont know the bike that well or how to ride it and am wearing myself out.

ETA - I think my favorite feature on this bike is the brakes. They REALLY work well, and Im very happy with them. I cant say enough about hydraylic disc brakes for rider safety.


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## Penguin665 (May 8, 2014)

Hey, thanks for the advice/warnings. Not having been riding at all yet (still looking for a bike) it's nice to hear some stories from other beginners.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

And now Im going to ride to the farmers market to buy dinner! LOL


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## shawneeboy (Apr 21, 2014)

LOL that's awesome.

Best part: "it feels like sitting on a pipe" LOL

I just went for the first time last week and had the same experience minus the puking. Spent some time in parking lots all week practicing techniques going over curbs and cornering between street signs. Looking forward to getting back out next week.

Look forward to hearing more!!


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Well I just did 2 more miles going to the farmers market on paved roads. Something is DEFINTELY wrong with the rear shifters and or deraileur. 

The bike has SRAM X5s and its not shifting or holding gears right. I about broke my neck when I stood up in the pedals and it skipped a gear. Also sometimes it doesnt want to go into the next gear when I shift, it takes "2 clicks". I had to shift a couple time to get it into 10th and it doesnt sound "smooth" back there. It sounds like its on the edge of a shift constantly.

Maybe it needs a tune up and adjustment? Guy I bought the bike from said it probabl could use one.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Well I just did 2 more miles going to the farmers market on paved roads. Something is DEFINTELY wrong with the rear shifters and or deraileur.
> 
> The bike has SRAM X5s and its not shifting or holding gears right. I about broke my neck when I stood up in the pedals and it skipped a gear. Also sometimes it doesnt want to go into the next gear when I shift, it takes "2 clicks". I had to shift a couple time to get it into 10th and it doesnt sound "smooth" back there. It sounds like its on the edge of a shift constantly.
> 
> Maybe it needs a tune up and adjustment? Guy I bought the bike from said it probabl could use one.


Both your shifter and your rear derailleur have a barrel adjuster where the cable ends. Try the one at the shifter first. Turn it towards the front to be unscrewing it. This takes up slack in the cable by increasing the length of the housing. Try 4 or 5 clicks of the adjuster to start.


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## elborikua (Mar 14, 2014)

"2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow."

LMAO! You need to consult a doctor!


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

There are You tube videos on how to adjust derailleurs,you can also look up how to's on the Park Tools and Sheldon Brown sites.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

eb1888 said:


> Both your shifter and your rear derailleur have a barrel adjuster where the cable ends. Try the one at the shifter first. Turn it towards the front to be unscrewing it. This takes up slack in the cable by increasing the length of the housing. Try 4 or 5 clicks of the adjuster to start.


Hey I think that might have worked! Its for sure shifting smoother now. I wont know 100% till I can get out on it again. Thanks!


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

elborikua said:


> "2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow."
> 
> LMAO! You need to consult a doctor!


I think I just got all excited and over did it. Im a guy that hasnt exercised since I quit playing hockey 5 years ago......


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

LOL, welcome back to fitness.  On the bright side, this is probably the worst you'll ever feel outside of competition.

3. The gears on a bike are a little weird. It makes some sense when you think about how the ratio happens - a larger chain ring makes the gear higher, but a larger cog makes it lower. And getting the chain to move onto something larger takes more tension, so it's always actuated with the bigger lever, with more throw. There's a spring that goes in the opposite direction, and it just needs some cable tension to be released, hence the little lever.

tl;dr - the front and rear shifters work opposite each other.

I don't like to shift the front as much. It makes a bigger change and is less reliable than the rear derailleur. So I tend to choose a chainring based on the trend of the terrain - am I climbing, mostly? Or am I mostly on rolling or descending trails? Then I shift the rear to keep me in a comfortable gear. If you have a triple, the large chainring is mostly there to look at, or to use on the road. That's not to say that I don't shift the front often too, just not as often as the rear. Ultimately, it's about what's working for me, and I'm suggesting this as a starting point that will maybe make some sense.

4. HTFU. At least for another couple weeks. Not every saddle works for every person, but no saddle works for someone who hasn't ridden in a while. Where is your weight distributed? It should all be on your sit bones. If not, you can try playing with the tilt and fore/aft position to make that happen. Your butt will still be sore, but that's not as much of a problem as being impotent. That would suck.

A couple links that may help you.
How to Fit a Bicycle
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Rear Derailler Adjustments (derailleur)

If you can sneak in a couple rides on pavement this week, maybe a half hour each, it'll give you an opportunity to work on pacing and get more comfortable with your drivetrain. Adding midweek rides is also great for fitness.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Thanks!

Ive been riding the "too small for me " bike though. I hear what you are saying - but I literally cant sit on the bike at this point. That seat is.... Well I'll try it for a bit longer I suppose, but thats the most painful thing Ive ever sat on. I will probably ride at lunch every day this week for 20 min or so. 

And yes the bloody shifters are backwards from each other LOL. THAT was aWTF moment


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## Max24 (Jan 31, 2013)

Borsig said:


> And now Im going to ride to the farmers market to buy dinner! LOL


Well that's where I used my bike the most before becoming more serious with it. Most of us started that way, running errands...


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## elborikua (Mar 14, 2014)

During the week I dont have time for long rides. I ride during my lunch break for about 45 minutes, but I change it up by doing intervals, hill repeats, etc... Every time I go out I try to make my lungs and legs explode. Come saturday/sunday I am ready for the 4 hour ride with plenty of climbing and so on. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk


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## WA-CO (Nov 23, 2013)

Great ride report.

My best comparison is similar to skiing. It's hard in the beginning, but each time you roll out the door, you gain experience. That experience builds and you'll get better. It's kinda two steps forward one step back. 

Lots of people ride. Hook up with someone who can help teach you a little. Use your local bike shop. I can't think of a single bike rider who's not willing to help or offer a little bit of advice.

Welcome to the tribe. If you commit to riding, most everyone will tell you it will change your life and in some ways help define you as a person. I STILL love to ride and have been at it a while. 

Keep after it. Have fun.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Maybe in some ways... I like skiing actually. Love it. But... I dont do CC. Only downhill....

Biggest difference? I ride the chair lift up the hill. With this - I pedal until I puke LOL. Ok so I was a little "enthusastic". There are still some up hills on this trail I will never see myself riding up. 

I do hope to get the transitions better though. Flying down a hill only to get 1/3 of the way up the next and nearly come to a complete stop sucks. I need to figure the gears out more to preserve momentum.

Gonna try and take the bike to shop tomorrow to have them look at shifters / deraileurs. Something still isnt quite right......


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## EmbraceTheHate (Sep 9, 2012)

Get your shifters dialed in. Take it to a shop and have them do it. Once they are in working order just ride. Every bike is different. Once you ride enough you will get a feel for what gear you should be in. Kinda like a standard transmission on a car. 

As far as you having to stop the first mile thats normal. But I highly suggest hydrating yourself on the next ride. You will be surprised how far you can go just by drinking water all week or so. Your legs are just not used to it. We all have been there. Keep riding and in a few weeks you will notice your pants are getting looser 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Back when I played hockey I could have been much better. My legs have not felt like this since I used to play 4 on 4 on a 8 man team. Bike shop says theyre backed up 3 weeks. I work on mechanical things all day. Just never a bike. I'll see what they say tomorrow, then research the how - to stuff. My rear end still hurts from that pipe... er seat.


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## EmbraceTheHate (Sep 9, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Back when I played hockey I could have been much better. My legs have not felt like this since I used to play 4 on 4 on a 8 man team. Bike shop says theyre backed up 3 weeks. I work on mechanical things all day. Just never a bike. I'll see what they say tomorrow, then research the how - to stuff. My rear end still hurts from that pipe... er seat.


Its relatively easy. Search youtube.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## Semitone (Dec 25, 2013)

I find that people on horses typically like bikers and are very courteous. I hope you know that it is customary to give the right of way to horses/riders and even the law in some places.

I come across horses frequently on the trail and have never had a problem but I stop and wait to get waived by, so as to not spook the horse or rider. ( Similar to how I treat them when I drive by in the car when they are on the road.) On many trails hikers and horses go in one direction, bikers the opposite. 

As for the sh!!t on the trail...well, it just adds to the challenge.,,but now your telling me I need to dodge the vomit also?? 

I can handle the dogs, the horses, the deer...it's the ticks that tick me off!

Enjoy your riding!!


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## EmbraceTheHate (Sep 9, 2012)

Semitone said:


> I find that people on horses typically like bikers and are very courteous. I hope you know that it is customary to give the right of way to horses/riders and even the law in some places.
> 
> I come across horses frequently on the trail and have never had a problem but I stop and wait to get waived by, so as to not spook the horse or rider. ( Similar to how I treat them when I drive by in the car when they are on the road.) On many trails hikers and horses go in one direction, bikers the opposite.
> 
> ...


Yep down here in Texas its common. Saturday I came into 3 riders on horses. I stop and let them by. Being a country boy I know a little about horses. I do not want to risk me and my bike spooking them. So I stop. Hikers I come up on I yell something like "ON YOUR LEFT" the majority move and I say thank you. Some are to arrogant and think they own the trail.....just how it goes. Horse **** is better then dog **** btw......

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Addendum to lessons learned-

Finding TWO ticks on your...... um.... junk is an unpleasant surprise. Of all the places, really?!


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

As to giving right of way to horses, yes. I grew up in the country so I understand .

When I saw horses coming I stopped and got off to make it easier on the beasties and their riders. Most were nice. One couple however was visibly irritated at my presence, and likely because their one horse was really not liking my bike, even withe me off of it, and 5 feet off the trail standing still....


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## Tasnoob (Feb 9, 2014)

Ha ha good advice I only took up riding a couple of months ago and still learn lessons every ride on the trail. Now my son has brought himself a bike so not only am I getting fit enjoying the outdoors and losing skin LOL I get to spend time with my son, not that it gets competitive, much.8)


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

If the seat sucks that bad, try a different one. I've been riding a long time and have long since toughened up the sitter, but some seat designs just absolutely kill me. 

Good job on the horse etiquette. Most people are appreciative, some people are just douchy, mostly those with douchy horses.

I've got a number of buddies who go through the puke stage every spring. It'll pass. Just keep getting out there.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

EmbraceTheHate said:


> Yep down here in Texas its common. Saturday I came into 3 riders on horses. I stop and let them by. Being a country boy I know a little about horses. I do not want to risk me and my bike spooking them. So I stop. Hikers I come up on I yell something like "ON YOUR LEFT" the majority move and I say thank you. Some are to arrogant and think they own the trail.....just how it goes. Horse **** is better then dog **** btw......
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


I find I do better when I don't yell at strangers. I drop to a walking pace and say "hello." I think the thing that pisses people off is if I startle them. For a while, I had a jingle bell on my bike. That actually worked even better.

I figure there are few enough hikers, at least most of the time, that it doesn't affect my ride or my workout much to drop a bunch of speed for those occasions. Of course there are even fewer hikers as I get higher up the mountain or deeper into the trail system.

Sometimes the most annoying groups are other mountain bikers. They'll be strewn across the entire logging road or stopped right at the top of a technical climb, right in the middle of the trail. WTF - have they never ridden the bikes that they're blocking me with?


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## Semitone (Dec 25, 2013)

Borsig said:


> Addendum to lessons learned-
> 
> Finding TWO ticks on your...... um.... junk is an unpleasant surprise. Of all the places, really?!


I don't know where you are riding but Lyme disease is a real problem in some places. It is particularly nasty because the symptoms are very much like the flu but it doesn't go away. In my experience, it cleans up well with treatment ( doxycycline) but, depending on the doctor can take a long time to diagnose. So if you get flu like symptoms and it doesn't go away just be aware that Lyme ( and other tick diseases, I've had others) is out there and check for that.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Virginia Coast....

The trail I will be learning on is Beaver Dam multi use trail, I think 9-12 miles. I did 2 in , 2 out my first ride.


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## Semitone (Dec 25, 2013)

I'm not familiar with Lyme being problem in Virginia but, in the future, who knows. In CT it is an epidemic. Everybody I know, who goes outside regularly, has had Lyme at least once. The telltale bullseye from the bite is not that common(I think I read where less than a third of the people actually find a bullseye, sometimes you don't even find the tick)

In any event, just keep it in the back of your mind, just in case.

I'm looking forward to going down to the Creeper sometime in the next couple years.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Well I just took it by the local trek dealer who has a great rep at my work. Loks like I will be without my bike for a week or two until they get to it. The wrench found that my crank bearing was loose and the deraileurs were out of a adjustment. If I had contunied to ride it like that, I would have worn the threads on the crank bearing hole in the frame. Could have been bad. Hes going to take care of that, and my deraileurs for $30. Well worth it for him finding a problem I was un aware of. He did say that the drivetrain looked in great shape otherwise and that there appeared to be very few miles on the bike (its a 2012). Chain gauge was "new". 

They also mentioned that it wasnt the ideal size for me (19) but should be OK since I would really be in between a 17.5 and 19. Im going to have them look at me on it when I go to pick it up (theyre backed up a week or so) and maybe put a shorter stem on it if needed. I thought it felt pretty good though, length wise.


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## 70sSanO (Nov 20, 2013)

On throwing up...

Going through half a camelback on a 4 mile ride is a lot of water. You can get sick to the stomach/throw up if you drink too much while you ride.

Hydrate yourself before you start and drink just enough to stay hydrated.

John


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

70sSanO said:


> On throwing up...
> 
> Going through half a camelback on a 4 mile ride is a lot of water. You can get sick to the stomach/throw up if you drink too much while you ride.
> 
> ...


I couldn't agree more. With that said "throwing up" happened to me as well on my very first ride, do not worry after 2- 3 rides, you wont even feel it but gota keep it consistent as much as you can (I Know life doesn't let us sometimes) Now I'm @ 3 times x week, and your body quickly adapts.

1 question for the OP, you do have padded riding shorts right?? Just making sure, I think is one of the most important things one needs to prevent a very sore bump.

Welcome to madness, if you stick to it, you will fall in love with it.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Fit is pretty individual.

When you can ride for about a half hour continuously, experiment with it some. If you find you need a really stubby stem, like 70 or less with relatively traditional bars or even less with wide bars, you're probably on too big a frame. Another way to look at it is that too big a frame will make your front wheel too light. There again, you need to be somewhat comfortable on a bike to tell a difference.


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## Eddie Austin (Mar 27, 2014)

I had nearly the same reaction my first time out. My eyes were bigger than my ability. Good job getting out there and I hope you stick with it man!

Keep riding.

Crazy Eddie


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

No padded shorts yet. But I guess I need some. 

The bike doesnt feel uncomfortable. Then again it's my first adult bike. 

The sales guy was kind of "mr expert" and saying he wouldn't have sold me the 19. The older, seemingly more experienced wrench said I looked to be in between sizes and it was fine. Id the bars are a stretch, pur a shorter stem on it, you'll be fine. 

I can also straddle it fine. Im 5'11...... the bike is a 19


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## 70sSanO (Nov 20, 2013)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I don't like to shift the front as much. It makes a bigger change and is less reliable than the rear derailleur. So I tend to choose a chainring based on the trend of the terrain - am I climbing, mostly? Or am I mostly on rolling or descending trails? Then I shift the rear to keep me in a comfortable gear. If you have a triple, the large chainring is mostly there to look at, or to use on the road. That's not to say that I don't shift the front often too, just not as often as the rear. Ultimately, it's about what's working for me, and I'm suggesting this as a starting point that will maybe make some sense.


This is really great advice, but I will take it one step further. Block out the large chainring by screwing in the front derailleur H screw so you can only shift between the small and middle chainrings. Try to ride flats, rollers, and down hill in the middle and only shift to the small when grinding uphill. It makes it easier if you only have 2 choices. You will also learn to anticipate what gear you should be in.

John


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121338332868

No more hockey helmet. Saw this had good reviews and grabbed it up.


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## Semitone (Dec 25, 2013)

Borsig said:


> The older, seemingly more experienced wrench said I looked to be in between sizes and it was fine.


A lot of us are "in between" sizes on various model bikes. Every mfg.'s frames are slightly different so sometimes you can get a better fit with some brands rather than others. From experience, I know I prefer to go down in size in a mountain bike ( I prefer the better stand over and smaller frame) and typically up in size on a road bike, if necessary.) You can tweak the stem, the offset on the seat post, change cranks, and a few other places but best to start in the right spot, if possible.)

My personal experience is that bike shops will try to sell you their inventory and say "It's fine, we can adjust it" but getting it right to start with is best. I don't see a lot of people who fit well on their bike...many of us just get close and make it work. It is very hard to find every bike to try, in the right size, before purchasing.

Another thing I find quite interesting is the really large variance of peoples proportions for a given height. You can get some pretty large differences in two people of the same height but much bigger inseams or torsos and arms than I would have guessed if I hadn't seen a some of the data.


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## crackerdog (Dec 18, 2011)

Don't stand completely still for horses. They are prey animals and standing still is what the predators do. Talk and move slowly so they aren't spooked. Some horses just spook really easy also. 
Throwing up is what happens when your heart can't keep up. Slow down at first and take it easier for a couple of weeks. 
If the seat if one of those things that come on new cheap bikes, then go buy the WTB, I love mine, you'll eventually want it anyway. It will still hurt for a couple of weeks no matter which saddle you use.


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## ThaiMTB (Jun 25, 2013)

When I first started riding the local trail I could hardly finish one lap and had to stop 4-5 times. Average time for people on one lap being around 30 minutes I probably spent close to an hour there for the first time. I couldn't believe how out of shape I was either! About 2-3 weeks later, riding 2-3 times a week I was finally able to finish one lap without stopping and now a year later I do 3 laps without stopping. My behind was sore for the first 10 rides or so and I was looking to buy a new saddle but luckily didn't as it now feels great after getting used to it (my bike came with a WTB thou..).

I found it difficult to pace myself in the beginning but riding with friends helped with this a lot. Be patient and in a couple of weeks time riding is a lot easier and gets more fun as well. Have fun!


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Im already having withdrawls. I want my bike back! Luckily I have a lot going on this week and weekend and no time to ride. Hopefully I will see it back soon, they said up to 2 weeks. (backlog in the shop)


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Two weeks??

It's not that hard to fix these things. You can also ask if they do appointments.

If anything's harder than getting back in shape on a bike, it's probably getting back in shape by running...


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

The "waiting room" is overflowing with bikes at this place. Its not rideable as it is, the crank bearing is loose, and riding it will likely damage the bottom bracket threads. 

Its only $30 to have the bearing tightened and the shifters and derailuers (which are very out of adjustment) set. Worth it to me for sure, but I just have to wait in line.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

You need a couple specialized tools to tighten the bottom bracket yourself. Neither is terribly expensive, however, especially if you already own an open-end wrench or socket wrench, and the shop probably has them in stock and can make sure to sell you the right things if you decide to take it on yourself.

Mountain bikers should know how to adjust their own drivetrains. It's a little harder the first time because you need to know how to adjust your expectations too. But we all had to do it the first time at some point.

parktool.com posts the procedures for all this.


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## lotusdriver (Sep 15, 2013)

Getting back into shape will take a while, so be patient.
It does depend on your age of course, as well.

I started riding again last year and have been going out 3-4 times every week, sometimes more.
At first l blew up on the first hill, or got to the top gasping for breath, my heart rate at 165.
But slowly things improved. And l mean slowly.....over months.

Now l am much fitter although some of my friends still disappear on hills to wait at the top for me. 
I have found that slowly, the amount of effort l can put in without burning out has increased, and my heart rate has fallen so on the hill where it reached 165 it now sits in the 140's and l don't get out of breath by the top.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

I also would recommend seeing if you can square away the shifting and BB yourself if you're at all comfortable working on mechanical stuff. Good to know how to do it, and should have you up and running a lot sooner.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

It looks like you are getting a fair price for the work. But I agree with the recommendation to begin the maintenance learning process with the same intent as you are investing in learning riding skills. The knowledge can be as important to you on the trail. Vids are a good starting point. 30 minutes per procedure will get you mostly there. Everything is basic and low tech, you will like developing a tuning touch and the connection will improve your riding. You notice things and react before they get bad.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Oh I fully intend to learn all the maintenance. I wanted it looked over by someone experienced, with it being used, etc. After that, I'll be getting the tools needed to do it myself.

I work on things for a living, so shouldnt be an issue!


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

So the center chain ring on my cobia is missing a tooth. BCD104, 33T. 

I was thinking of going to a BCD104 32T , becasue the 33t ones I can find are all quite expensive. Id like to not spend too much on this repair. 

Thoughts? I was looking at a few for around $20, the truvativ steel one, a race face alloy one thats on clearance for around $20 at pricepoint....


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Steel 32 is fine. Pricepoint automatically charges 1.29 insurance. You have to tell them you don't want it.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Race face turbine is the same price. Any difference?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Borsig said:


> So the center chain ring on my cobia is missing a tooth. BCD104, 33T.
> 
> I was thinking of going to a BCD104 32T , becasue the 33t ones I can find are all quite expensive. Id like to not spend too much on this repair.
> 
> Thoughts? I was looking at a few for around $20, the truvativ steel one, a race face alloy one thats on clearance for around $20 at pricepoint....


Is it skipping or anything? I've been chipping teeth on the big ring on my hardtail all along, and it's not actually doing anything wrong. At one point, I put enough of a burr in it to cause problems, but a hand file took care of that. To look at the ring, I'm a little surprised it still works well. But it's not there to look at.

Other things equal, I'll always choose Shimano's rings for multispeed setups. Though sometimes they're not cross-compatible with other brands' spiders, so you have to be a little careful.

Better rings have both machined-in features and pins that help shift up, and some teeth with modified profiles to help shift down. There are also a ton of different aluminum alloys and heat treatments, and that affects wear life. The machining process used matters too. At the low end, I could probably have the sheet metal shop near my office laser cut a flat chainring from sheet metal, no other processing steps, and have it install okay and work. But the nice ones do shift better. Even with a missing tooth, come to think of it.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

unfortunately it does have a slight skip to it. It also sometimes wants to drop to granny, but hasnt done that much lately.

We tried a Shimano ring I think from an XT set on it at the bike shop. Did not fit the SRAM S800 crankset.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

If you're not stressed out about weight, get the steel one. It's a pretty high-wear part.


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## Berts1011 (May 20, 2014)

Hello guys... I am new to the forum as well as the sport.
I need some advice .... I am looking to buy my second mountain bike.
I found a 2010 specialized stumpjumper Marathon 29 ( aluminum) with rockshox reba rl and slx components in brand new condition shipped to me for $900
I tried doing some research but I couldn't find any information on the bike

Any advice will be greatly appreciated


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Well I went ahead and bought the steel truvativ trushift 32t. 

The only real problem I see with that, is that its a 9 speed chainring. The set is a SRAM S800 (22/33/44) 10 speed. The actual replacement ring (X9/X0) is around 70-100 bucks depending. If this steel truvativ ring doesnt fit, I'll send it back and just buy a chainring set, or crankset. I can get a cransket or chain ring set for the price of the 33t ring thats a direct replacement.

ETA - I also hope that the 32vs33t chainring doesnt throw out my nice gear ratios.


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## the other Anne (Feb 14, 2014)

Borsig, one thing to think about as you continue riding is that riding a bike is not like playing hockey. In hockey, you go out for your shift, go all out for 60 seconds, and then change. In cycling, you have to keep riding, so you can't use the all-out effort you used to do when you were on the ice. 

Try downshifting and practicing riding along, pedaling steadily, at a pace you can keep up. This is key. When you get to an uphill, go to a lower gear-- that's why you have gears. Soon shifting gears will be second nature.

Once you have the base level of fitness that allows you to do the whole ride without stopping, you can begin to work on sprinting and stuff like that. But now is the time to develop the base fitness.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Serfas saddles are your friend for your seat problems. They pretty much eliminate the need for bike shorts, and are much cheaper.
https://www.serfas.com/products/index/saddles/


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

the other Anne said:


> Borsig, one thing to think about as you continue riding is that riding a bike is not like playing hockey. In hockey, you go out for your shift, go all out for 60 seconds, and then change. In cycling, you have to keep riding, so you can't use the all-out effort you used to do when you were on the ice.
> 
> Try downshifting and practicing riding along, pedaling steadily, at a pace you can keep up. This is key. When you get to an uphill, go to a lower gear-- that's why you have gears. Soon shifting gears will be second nature.
> 
> Once you have the base level of fitness that allows you to do the whole ride without stopping, you can begin to work on sprinting and stuff like that. But now is the time to develop the base fitness.


You know - thats probably a very good analogy. I do go just like that, perhaps thats why I liked hockey so much. I'm more of a burst type person. But I sure did treat it like a hockey shift. Man thats pretty spot on.

Unfortunately my middle chain ring is skipping pretty good. Looks like I wont be able to go trail this weekend. Im limited to granny and road gears ATM.


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## the other Anne (Feb 14, 2014)

Consider the best defensemen in the NHL. They probably play for some team you hate, and they probably are on the ice for 30 minutes against your favorite team. An NHL game lasts 2 or 2 1/2 hours. So they're only playing 20-25% of the time.

You don't want to go on a bike ride and only ride for 20% of the time. You don't want to stop after sixty seconds of pedaling. That's not fun. So you have to dial back your effort.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Borsig said:


> Well I went ahead and bought the steel truvativ trushift 32t.
> 
> The only real problem I see with that, is that its a 9 speed chainring. The set is a SRAM S800 (22/33/44) 10 speed. The actual replacement ring (X9/X0) is around 70-100 bucks depending. If this steel truvativ ring doesnt fit, I'll send it back and just buy a chainring set, or crankset. I can get a cransket or chain ring set for the price of the 33t ring thats a direct replacement.
> 
> ETA - I also hope that the 32vs33t chainring doesnt throw out my nice gear ratios.


Should be fine. 10-speed rings are thinner, but I doubt you'll feel a difference and the wear life will be better. I doubt you'll be able to feel the difference in the shift pattern either, even if you rode a couple bikes back-to-back.


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## bachman1961 (Oct 9, 2013)

Borsig;

Congrats on getting into biking and shape while offering some fun stories. Many of your experiences are shared by most that got into riding or back to riding at some point. You've opened the door to great advice from others here .... thanks for that !

It's fun to reminisce;

*Seat experience;* I discovered (or was counseled) on giving the seat (any seat) some time. It may well be a problem but going to a bike seat for hours from not having been on one at all or in recent times is going to offer some new  feelings. Riding the bike a few times a week or even once a week for awhile will let you learn if you'll get used to it. Even if, or especially so with a new seat purchase. 
That said, I'm sure many bikes come with so/so seat quality at best and many are likely sub-standard. I'm sure seats are the most upgraded item on bikes and the first thing that gets swapped out if the owner knows what seat he/she had and liked.
In my case, I found that soft squishy seats that seemed the obvious choice were never the comfortable ones.

*Fit experience;* The fit should allow you comfort, room and no pain. Seat height (easily adjusted) can = knee pain and I'm glad you got some shop advice on the bike size and it seems to be "about right" or between sizes. 
I don't think anyone gets a bike that isn't somewhat adjusted or tuned to fit. It's the first thing I'd get checked if new to it and getting a bike used that didn't come from a store where the pro's would normally advise. I think I'm on an 18" with good stand-over, about a 33" inseam and just a teeny bit over 5'10". If in between, I went smaller thinking I might do more tech terrain and want extra room. At the time of purchase, I was almost 15 years younger and 6'0". :eekster:

*Shifting tips-* Glad to see some various input on the front/rear derailleurs. 
Those most common theme I get about shifting is _terrain familiarity_. If you know what's ahead or coming up on the ride, you'll know or learn what speed, how to use momentum or which gear to choose or be ready for. I think of _new rides as a rehearsal_ knowing the next time I ride that section, I'll likely do better. Sometimes I'm not in the right gear and lose power on the climb before getting to the top. Or, maybe my weight shift wasn't ideal and I lost traction on loose stuff going up.
The fun is getting it right and even if it isn't perfect on the first run, _you get to go back and tame those trails with added skill_, trial and error and knowledge of what to expect next time around.

I think of it as downhill skiing.... many times I have skied with people who claim they have/had never fell or crashed (and they probably didn't). Some were_ beginners for life _and some that were around long enough got to the intermediate level but more by luck or happenstance than by learning skills and being out there for the thrill and adventure.

Enjoy the bike and keep on posting !!


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## the other Anne (Feb 14, 2014)

Interesting point, bachmann about terrain familiarity.

While all of us can shift better on routes we've ridden before, I think it's important to learn to shift successfully on routes we've never ridden before. Of course, it depends on whether someone is a "park" rider who likes to ride and re-ride familiar trails or a "wilderness" rider who likes to go off somewhere and ride, but IMO someone who can't (relatively) successfully manage shifting on new terrain is missing a skill that a lot of us value.


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## bachman1961 (Oct 9, 2013)

the other Anne said:


> Interesting point, bachmann about terrain familiarity.
> 
> While all of us can shift better on routes we've ridden before, I think it's important to learn to shift successfully on routes we've never ridden before. Of course, it depends on whether someone is a "park" rider who likes to ride and re-ride familiar trails or a "wilderness" rider who likes to go off somewhere and ride, but IMO someone who can't (relatively) successfully manage shifting on new terrain is missing a skill that a lot of us value.


Yeah, that definitely can or will come with some riding experience.
Maybe we forget or take for granted what we've learned.

I'm certain we gain intuitive instincts on terrain we've never been on before meaning the newer bikers are going to gain those insights with experience and may get better at anticipating the potentials as they ride, being more at-the-ready for changes in speed, gearing, and riding position.

I can't think of anyone I know who stuck with a sport if they were not improving and enjoying it. My mom lost interest in downhill skiing after a few injuries that limited her to a lifer-beginner.


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## jcd46 (Jul 25, 2012)

As a new rider that has been my approach, to become familiar with a trail first sort of "master" it -although that's a big word for my skills right now- It gave me more confidence, and it helped me a lot with shifting gears. I know what's coming up next and how to handle it.

Don't get me wrong I do throw in a different trail every now and then, and I'm planning to now explore my regular trail more as there are several routes around it but the part I know makes it for a very enjoyable ride because I'm better skilled at it. 

I'm lucky in my area we have a few trails close by all different levels.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Guys I think I might want another "stem" - something shorter, but not in height, maybe to pull the handlebars back an inch or inch and a half or so? I seems like that might give me more control. 

Other than the LBS, which is a pain for me to get to during business hours, how would I know the right size for one of these? It currently has a Bontrager stem, with no measurement number on it anywhere that I can see.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

You've probably noticed that stems have four specs that matter: length, angle, steer tube size, and clamp size.

Length is measured center-to-center from the steer tube to the handlebar clamp. It comes in 10 mm increments, so if you can measure that precisely, you're close enough.

Angle is almost always around 6 degrees on stock stems. Just stick with that unless you have a reason to change.

Steer tube is almost definitely 1-1/8". It's hard to find anything else, but there are a couple other sizes out there. That's the outside diameter of the fork's steer tube up at the top.

Clamp size is either 25.4 or 31.8. That's the outside diameter of the handlebar at the stem clamp. You can tell by sight if you know what you're looking for. Post a pic if you're not sure.

Small differences in stem length make a surprisingly large difference, and it can take some experimentation. My recommendation would be to get a cheap stem 10 or 20 mm shorter than what you've got.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Thanks! Yes mine looks to be 99/100mm or so. 

I was looking for something cheap on ebay.

As a side, the front has.developed a quiet annoying squeak and a slight drag. Ill try adjusting the.brakes again, but im not sure thats what it is. This thing needs more maintenance than my car!

ETA- it does look like the "non moving" side of the front disc brake is touching the rotor. That doesnt seem normal? Time to google adjustment technique. Theyre hayes dyna comp


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

When I adjust brakes I loosen the caliper bolts, set the pad in a few clicks, hold the brake and tighten the bolts. Then back the pad back out til it's not rubbing, but not bending the disc. If the pad is set too far in, you loose braking power. After that, adjust the outer pad or throw to make the lever comfortable. Some people use a business card instead of moving the brake pad to tighten the caliper. Either works, I just find it easier to move the pad. It accomplishes the same thing.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

If your brakes were fine before, leave them be. You can spend your life screwing around with them. At least, unless they're really dragging.

Are your brakes hydraulic or mechanical? I Googled the brake and saw pictures of something hydraulic. There should be no non moving side. Some brakes don't open very wide, however, and the pistons can stick.

For stems, there's usually a $15 stem on Nashbar. I doubt EBay can save you any money.

I had an interesting conversation with my brother the other day. He owns a couple bicycles, but recently bought a motorcycle. He was complaining about the fragility of bicycles. I said they were optimized; he asked if that was engineer speak for "fragile." Although I actually do very little work on bikes I only ride on the road. I bet you'd do a lot of work on your car if you drove off-road a lot.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

Oh yeah totally.. I slam into trees and roots and rocks.. I fully expect things to break . If you go into this sport thinking that you aren't going to break anything, you are going to be really disappointed.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Nearly 10 miles saturday!
Sunday I did 4 and was exhausted and couldnt go any more.
3.5 miles Monday while I waited on the turtles at the tire shop to rotate my tires. 

Sand sucks. I don't like riding in sand. 
Mud sucks. I dont like riding in mud. Sand and mud are not fun. 

Seat still sucks. I ordered a new one LOL. 

I need some padded shorts, and maybe a shorter stem. Uphills are very hard and some I dont think I will ever be able to climb, but I am enjoying myself.

I straightened my 33t chainring, and it no longer skips. Yay. I will keep the 32T I ordered as a backup. Bled and adjusted my brakes, but I think I got something on the front pads. I will cook em with a torch this week some time. 

Broke a spoke on the trail saturday. Got a stick caught in the wheel and broke one. Is it serious? Should I even worry about it?


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Replace the spoke you broke. It's not hard to do yourself, but you do need the correct length and a couple tools. Get the spoke and a spoke wrench at your shop. Take the wheel with you.

You'll need to true the wheel afterwards. I'd be surprised if Park Tool doesn't have a good writeup. Check Sheldon Brown if not.

If you don't, the wheel will develop a wobble that will get worse and worse until the wheel folds. It'll take some time, but no sense destroying an otherwise good wheel.

So, medium serious.


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## rangeriderdave (Aug 29, 2008)

Replacing a broken spoke isn't that hard if you have and know to use the right tools. You should replace it ,missing spokes make wheel weaker ,and easier to go out of true. Which wheel ,if the rear ,non or drive side?


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

rangeriderdave said:


> Replacing a broken spoke isn't that hard if you have and know to use the right tools. You should replace it ,missing spokes make wheel weaker ,and easier to go out of true. Which wheel ,if the rear ,non or drive side?


I rode a little tonight and the wheel has a clear wobble in it. I would assume thats from a non-true / weak spot?

I'll head to the LBS tomorrow and hopefully get a spoke and the tools to replace it. I think the little nut that holds it to the rim is messed up too.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Your rim is positioned by the spokes. Remove one and the two pulling it the other way on either side will do exactly that. They're under a fair amount of tension.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Your rim is positioned by the spokes. Remove one and the two pulling it the other way on either side will do exactly that. They're under a fair amount of tension.


Fixed it tonight -

Spoke - $1 LBS
Tools - $47, LOL

The mechanic at my LBS never fails me for the right tools. I bought the tols there today, but was kind of pissed I was charged more than MSRP for the chain whip tool. Oh well. His advice was worth $5 I suppose. And I like the mechanic. Just not the shop that much.

MSRP is MSRP. Charging over MSRP is like "market value addendum" on a new car that drives it 3k over MSRP. makes me want to go there alot less.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

You'll use a lot of those tools again and again, though.

Do you have a plan for truing the wheel once the new spoke's in place? It's important to get tension and true at least fairly close.


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## Semitone (Dec 25, 2013)

LBS? You mean a "real" LBS as in B&M? Mine charges $90/hr labor and a 20% premium if you bring your own parts...

I guess that's why I use my "virtual" LBS of Youtube and 2 day shipping from Amazon.

Maybe I'm just cheap but I can buy a lot of tools, and break a lot of stuff while learning for $90/hr plus MSRP.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

AndrwSwitch said:


> You'll use a lot of those tools again and again, though.
> 
> Do you have a plan for truing the wheel once the new spoke's in place? It's important to get tension and true at least fairly close.


I marked the replaced spoke and tightened it until the visible wobble in the wheel went away. Then I tightened the one behind it a bit as it felt loose. To the naked eye it looks pretty good.

I dont mind buying the tools. I mind paying $28 for a tool thats $22 MSRP. The mechanics advice is valuable to me. But I wont go there unless I need him. I dont mind paying MSRP for items when it comes with good service and advice.Paying over that makes me feel like Im being ripped off, even if it was maybe 6 bucks.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Feel the spoke against the ones next to it, on the same side of the wheel. Try to get the tension to feel about the same.

If you use disc brakes, people's opinions differ about whether to true a wheel very much, or just try to match spoke tensions. It may not be the same thing anymore with your wheel - it's kind of a wash with new rims.


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Thats pretty much exactly what i did


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## Borsig (May 8, 2014)

Also to add- the new seat I got - (WTB Speed V - paid $28) makes a huge difference for the price paid. Huge. Im sure there are better seats out there, but for $28 new Im fine with this for now. 

major difference.


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## grantini (Sep 14, 2014)

It is important to be courteous to riders, walkers, and birdwatchers. We had a major section of our trails shut down at one point because the birdwatchers complained about the mountain bikers ruining the birdwatching. The last thing you want to do or need to do is spook a horse and end up with someone being injured. As a matter of course, when I see a horse, I stop and dismount, say hello, comment on the weather and let them pass. A few bad eggs (or uninformed eggs) can do tremendous damage to the entire mountain biking community.... When in doubt, dismount.... don't blast past walkers or force them off the trail, it's just common courtesy. Oh, and join a club and volunteer for trail maintenance days.... you will get to know people AND you will do your part.... (and you will learn about more cool trails!)


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## grantini (Sep 14, 2014)

Its always good to know how to fix and adjust your own gear.... I rode motocross for years and eventually could rebuild a motor with no problem, same with replacing a clutch or rebuilding forks. You aren't cheating your LBS when you do that, in fact they will often help. You should always rely on them for parts, skill, REAL repairs that are beyond your capability, equipment and ultimately; bikes. As for Lyme disease, always spray yourself, we live in Delaware, and I've had lyme twice and our youngest son ended up having knee surgery after finally getting rid of it with IV treatment. It's a nasty nasty thing. I got it both times from mountain biking..... Virginia isn't far from Delaware, if you don't have it you will. Finally, develop a relationship with your LBS. Find guys you like, and get to know them. Don't be annoying but ask questions, buy your gear there, don't "comparison shop" on Amazon. You will be surprised, eventually you won't wait three weeks, they will ask "is it here?" and when you say yes, they will say "bring it in." You are at a disadvantage as you bought your bike used so you don't have that kind of grease yet, but if you support your shop eventually you might. Oh, padded shorts? DEFINITELY.


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## grantini (Sep 14, 2014)

As a follow up on the LBS relationship; I've been dealing with the same mechanic since the late 80s. I don't even consider making an appointment or scheduling a repair... I'm always stunned when I realize that other people have to do that! The foundation you build today will pay dividends for decades and frankly those guys become your friends and mentors.... I don't even question what things cost. They treat me fairly and are always proactive in helping me through new stuff or broken stuff.


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## NDD (Jul 22, 2013)

EmbraceTheHate said:


> Its relatively easy. Search youtube.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2


This is so true. Trust me. If I can successfully adjust the indexing and limit screws on my front and rear derailleurs, you can do it. Just make sure you don't push buttons before asking questions.


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## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

I found that your leg strength builds up pretty fast if you just keep at it every day. The first couple of days I started riding again were pathetic, I could barely handle .25mi up hill before my legs turned to noodles, but after just 5 days I can do over 1 mile up hill without feeling exhausted (this weekend I plan on pushing myself as far as I can go since my main limit has been daylight thanks to getting off work right at sunset). 

The seat pain also goes away fast. The seat hurt my ass pretty bad making me think I need a better seat, but its more of a case of just building up some harder tissue on your butt. My bike has a decent WTB seat and it hurt like hell on my first ride, now its bordering on comfortable.


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## el_dedo (Oct 5, 2013)

Borsig said:


> View attachment 892460
> 
> Bought this bike today for $560. Its a 2012 Trek Cobia 29er. Bike looks to be in excellent shape. I think the shifters / deraileurs might need to be adjusted. Im not sure. Ive never owned anythng more than the same 10 speed mtb I've owned since I was 12. (Im 40). (its like a 15" or smaller 84 schwinn ) So I may just need to get used to the shifters. It came with a under seat pack, some tools, a little mini botanger air pump...
> 
> ...


as for horses, talk to the rider as you approach, talk the entire time. What horses dont like is you moving quickly and with no noise, what in nature acts like that you ask? Predators....so the horse gets spooked a bit.


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## Rhodyman (Aug 7, 2015)

Thanks for resurrecting this two year old post. It has a great quote!:

2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow.


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## el_dedo (Oct 5, 2013)

Rhodyman said:


> Thanks for resurrecting this two year old post. It has a great quote!:
> 
> 2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow.


lol, didnt see the date, nice 2 years dead, pretty rotten by now


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Rhodyman said:


> Thanks for resurrecting this two year old post. It has a great quote!:
> 
> 2. Throwing up sucks. I rode about a mile. Stopped, threw up, and about passed out - literally. I slept against a tree for about 30 minutes and went back at it. I am OUT of shape. Wow.


Haha, saw that. Don't miss the bit about the seat! Too funny, and brutally honest description of the experience. :lol:


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## Rhodyman (Aug 7, 2015)

noapathy said:


> Haha, saw that. Don't miss the bit about the seat! Too funny, and brutally honest description of the experience. :lol:


Lmao - Great stuff! Wish the OP followed up on how's he doing now.


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