# converting vintage steel mtb to 26" touring rig



## aruuk (Jun 18, 2007)

Hi Everyone,
I suspect this may not be the correct forum and apologize if so, but maybe someone can direct me to the right place to address converting a vintage steel mtb into a 26" touring rig(not for expedition, just paved/gravel touring). Looking for recommendations on which bikes make the best mounts and discussion on parts swap necessary to accomplish the conversion. Especially interested in the advice of those who may have attempted a similar project.
Thanks in advance for your help.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

Sounds like the right place to me. I know a lot of the regulars have done similar.


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## jeff (Jan 13, 2004)

The relaxed geometries and longer wheelbases points to the fact that most frames back in the 80's were built to tour. I would look to bikes from the later 80's and earlier. It's hard to find a frame from that era that does not have braze on's for racks and fenders and many were set up for low rider fronts.


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## wxflyer (Apr 30, 2006)

I have an '89 Ritchey Outback that I use as a commuter. I suspect it would be a great touring rig, but I haven't taken it out for more than a 25 mile ride or so. All the required braze-ons are there. Other than the Old Man Mountain rear w/Arkel panniers and newer saddle, the bike is stock. Oh, I've also mounted a pair of Maxxis Overdrive tires. Very stable, comfortable bike. Mine has a semi-high rise stem. Like jeff said, there are plenty of MTBs from this era that would make good touring bikes.


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## Flying-Monkey (Apr 15, 2012)

Pictures!

I'm looking forward to more details.


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## oldskoolwrench (Jul 12, 2012)

Just about _any_ 'old school' MTB can be used for touring; IMHO (read:humble) I would say it's a matter of how you want the frame equipped. Braze on's will be plentiful, brake choices abound, but the real deciding factor is size. Of course, since you're going to be on hard surfaces you can go up in size as compared to a dedicated off road rig.

There was a guy here in the Big D that had an older Supergo Access MTB for sale on CL; Columbus SL MTB tubing, box crown Cro-Mo fork, full XT M730 w/ BioPace, and it was in a nice burgundy color. That would make a great touring bike! :thumbsup:


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## doc Zox (Sep 16, 2010)

the first gen Jamis Dakar had upper pannier braze ons on the fork, lower rack braze ons and fender braze ons.


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## laffeaux (Jan 4, 2004)

I converted an '86 Ritchey into a touring bike. There's no major parts swap needed to make a mountain bike ready to tour. As others have, look for a frame with rack braze-ons, and longer chain stays if you plan on using panniers (short stays will lead to your heels catching the panniers). Find a frame that is built with a slightly thicker-walled tubset that will hold up better under load - loaded panniers will make the frame want to twist in ways that you don't want it to. "Race" frames (especially from the '90s) aren't as good a candidate due to the thin-walled tubesets used to build them.

As far as components go... Make sure that you have a comfy saddle. The wheelset should have at least 32 spokes, and the spokes should be "standard" (no fancy special spokes that can't be easily found and replaced) - if you use vintage parts make sure that the nipples aren't frozen to the spokes (as aluminum nipples tend to be). The gearing should be low - climbing a long steep hill with extra gear is a lot harder than you think it's going to be. The stem/bar should allow you to be comfortable for a long period of time - a "race" position is great for going fast but not so good for riding for hours or days on end. And lastly, choose components that are easy to adjust and repair - i.e. if a component requires a special tool to adjust and decides to need adjustment mid-ride are you going to have that tool with you? Pretty much if you can't adjust/repair the component with a multi-tool it might be a bad choice.

The last thing is water supply. The more water a bike can carry the better it is for touring. Make sure that it was at least two cage mounts; three is better. On long rides I carry a backpacking water filter/pump to refill my bottles - assuming that there is a water source in the area.

Otherwise pick a frame and components that are dependable - knowing that a part will work in adverse conditions is more important than weight or the "bling" factor.


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## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

One candidate for a project like this is the '87 Schwinn High Sierra. It has long chain stays, thicker tubing, braze-ons for double bottles, and full rack and fender braze-ons (including low-rider braze-ons on the fork). It will require roller cams or U-brakes.


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## aruuk (Jun 18, 2007)

*Great replies*

Great replies from everyone so far, Thank you to All.
Speaking of High Sierras, I have an '84 and I'm finally retiring it from mtb use which is exactly what drove me to the topic question. My bike has suffered a front brake mount failure which may be putting it out of service, hence my search for recommended frames. I love the long wheelbase on my HS it is my favorite climber of all(beats my 9r and a Fisher for uphill traction on loose terrain especially when out of the saddle. Not so hot on the downhills, the springy frame bounces wonderfully on large rocks. If I can get the fork fixed I might try it out for touring but the hard use it has seen as a mtb worries me somewhat as a risk if I load it as heavy as my trek 520. From what I've read recently the '87 is a much improved frame over the '84.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

aruuk said:


> Great replies from everyone so far, Thank you to All.
> Speaking of High Sierras, I have an '84 and I'm finally retiring it from mtb use which is exactly what drove me to the topic question. My bike has suffered a front brake mount failure which may be putting it out of service, hence my search for recommended frames. I love the long wheelbase on my HS it is my favorite climber of all(beats my 9r and a Fisher for uphill traction on loose terrain especially when out of the saddle. Not so hot on the downhills, the springy frame bounces wonderfully on large rocks. If I can get the fork fixed I might try it out for touring but the hard use it has seen as a mtb worries me somewhat as a risk if I load it as heavy as my trek 520. From what I've read recently the '87 is a much improved frame over the '84.


Why not just use your 520? I've got 700x40 cross tires on mine along with some dirt drop bars and it does great on dirt and gravel and even some singletrack. I don't really use it for loaded touring, but that is what it's designed for.


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## aruuk (Jun 18, 2007)

*520?*

Good question. The 520 is going out the door. I did put some fat cx style tires on for daytouring on canal trails but the tree roots and potholes finally proved to me I bought too tall a bike(should have know better but didn't). Conversely, I put some skinnier tires on my High Sierra and really liked the feel on pavement and off so I'm hot to build a 26" tourer in a smaller framer.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

My 520 is a little bigger than I'd prefer for riding singletrack, but it feels real good on dirt roads, roads, and gravel. I purchased it new in 1994 and had the bike shop fit it for me since I didn't know anything about road bikes. (still don't). In fact, in '94 mtbs were so popular in the midwest (we were a little late to mtbs) I had a hard time even finding a local shop that stocked road bikes. I'm really glad I got the 520 though, I've thoroughly enjoyed it over the years.


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## paramount66 (Jun 14, 2009)

I know a guy who toured on his 26" steel mountain bike from Cleveland Ohio to the southern most point of South America and back. Then He commuted on the bike for years, probably still is! Ran it mostly stock (early 90's stuff) except for skinnier smoother tires. Rode 26" because he said it was easier to find 26" stuff (ie tires, spokes and rims) when you are REALLY out there like in deepest darkest Bolivia! I believe him! Experience COUNTS! By the way it was a Trek 930! No shocks!


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

paramount66 said:


> I know a guy who toured on his 26" steel mountain bike from Cleveland Ohio to the southern most point of South America and back. Then He commuted on the bike for years, probably still is! Ran it mostly stock (early 90's stuff) except for skinnier smoother tires. Rode 26" because he said it was easier to find 26" stuff (ie tires, spokes and rims) when you are REALLY out there like in deepest darkest Bolivia! I believe him! Experience COUNTS! By the way it was a Trek 930! No shocks!


Would you mind sharing who it was? I live in suburban Cleveland. There's a big cycling community here. Which is amazing considering the terrible weather.


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