# Slick bridges



## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

I have two wood bridges on trails I help maintain that often times can get half way submersed in lake water, pending the severity of the storms and flooding we get (Florida). The slick surface left after the flooding makes the bridges unable to even walk across without slipping. Building the bridges higher is not an option.

While I was out in Colorado last month, I noticed they lined their wood bridges and ladder bridges with a metal mesh material so that tires and soles of shoes could have traction. It worked great out there.

Does anyone know what type of material is used for traction on wooden bridges? If so, have you ever seen is galvanized? I'm afraid if it wasn't, it would rust into an awful mess and could be even more dangerous.

HELP!


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## Fattirewilly (Dec 10, 2001)

SoWal_MTBer said:


> I have two wood bridges on trails I help maintain that often times can get half way submersed in lake water, pending the severity of the storms and flooding we get (Florida). The slick surface left after the flooding makes the bridges unable to even walk across without slipping. Building the bridges higher is not an option.
> 
> While I was out in Colorado last month, I noticed they lined their wood bridges and ladder bridges with a metal mesh material so that tires and soles of shoes could have traction. It worked great out there.
> 
> ...


Skid Tex additive. We mix it an opaque oil based stain.

RustOleum.com


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

I can't use anything like that. These lakes are Coastal Dune Lakes and only occur in a few places in the world. They are protected. Using something like that would never get approved. I guess I should have mentioned that.


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## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

I'm a Florida rider as well, but when I was in Georgia, the long bridges were covered in what looked like rabbit fencing to me. It's a galvanized steel mesh that has a square grid with about 1/2" squares, if I remember correctly.Smaller mesh and heavier gauge than chicken wire.


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## epic (Apr 16, 2005)

That metal mesh is some kind of material used for drywall.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

I don't endorse this company. I just did a quick Google search. I've used this stuff all over the place. The stuff they use to back stucco is the right gauge but I don't know if you can get it galvanized. Usually it isn't.

Expanded metal products that are left in their primary expanded state (not flattened).


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## natzx7 (May 30, 2007)

This is what I was thinking of. I guess they call it hardware cloth. It's galvanized.
Hardware Cloth, 10 ft. x 24 in. - 3627047 | Tractor Supply Company


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks everyone! This rodent mesh stuff looks promising and is galvanized to boot! Going to make a run to the hardware stores tomorrow and check it out.


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Actually, now that I know it's generally referred to as hardware cloth, I actually found this article by the Forest Service outlining it's use for bog walks, wetland bridges, etc.

Wetland Trail Design and Construction: 2007 Edition - 07232804 - Forest Service Publications - Publications - Recreational Trails - Environment - FHWA

You guys rock!


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## Summit Ridge Guy (Aug 16, 2010)

SoWal MTBer, any thoughts on elevating the bridges?? Just saying...............


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## robbiexor (Aug 22, 2011)

Hardware cloth has a notoriously short wear life and becomes more of a problem as it starts to break down. The potential for cuts and flats usually isn't worth the ease of implementation .


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## tflounder (May 12, 2008)

Summit Ridge Guy said:


> SoWal MTBer, any thoughts on elevating the bridges?? Just saying...............


That would be my first solution.

We use the no-slip paint on structures in SFL. Works great but does get worn off over time. I have also seen structures that have been covered with asphalt roof shingles.


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Wow, that looks like an awsome ride!:thumbsup:

Just not the snakes and gators:skep:


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## fell_brook (Mar 14, 2011)

I just saw on a downhill video that they lined their wooden structures with chain linked fencing. I would think that would last a long time.


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

In Markham Park we use asphalt shingles for the wood features and it works fine. I can see a problem with them in a wetland area, as they could leach out some unwanted chemicals. The wire mesh may be your best alternative and I would pose the question as to what is used in the Rockies section on the forum... Some trail build guy will be able to tell you.

Why is increasing the elevation not an option???


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## TORQUE-29er (Nov 26, 2008)

:idea:home depot has lath :thumbsup:>>>not purdy but works well :eekster: 27 in. x 8 ft. Steel Lath-2.5 METAL LATH at The Home Depot


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

TORQUE-29er said:


> :idea:home depot has lath :thumbsup:>>>not purdy but works well :eekster: 27 in. x 8 ft. Steel Lath-2.5 METAL LATH at The Home Depot


that was the stuff I was talking about. thanks Torque, I couldn't remember what it was called. Do you know if you can get galvanized lath? It doesn't say in the product description at Home Depot.


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## TORQUE-29er (Nov 26, 2008)

Trail Ninja said:


> that was the stuff I was talking about. thanks Torque, I couldn't remember what it was called. Do you know if you can get galvanized lath? It doesn't say in the product description at Home Depot.


I think it is galvanized,from what i've seen this stuff doesn't rust


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

Looks nice enough and should wear better than shingles. It will allow the wood underneath to dry out also as the biggest problem we have down here is wood rotting out, even if it is PT..
I'll propose this to the peeps in charge and see if it is feasible for us to use as well...:thumbsup:


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

More great information here! I really appreciate everyone's recommendations and input. Positive rep all-around!

Currently, I can't raise the bridges for a number of reasons. The first being cost. I'm currently the only trail maintenance volunteer with the land manager. Initially, many people showed interests and I created a legit group to organize, but I seem to find myself alone performing all of the work thus far.

Secondly, the cost to build new bridges. These aren't simple walk-overs. When the lakes rise, the water moving beneath the bridge can be very strong. The new bridges would have to be built very well. I've already put out a few hundred dollars of my own making fixes, buying supplies, etc elsewhere on the trail. Funding for this type of stuff is pretty much non-existent.

Lastly, I'm not an experienced wood worker...yet.

That said, I was trying to find a fix that could last until something changes and I either have more help, more money, etc.

Thanks again everyone!


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Land Manager just returned my phone call and said his boss in Tallahassee gave him approval to go purchase rolls of galvanized lath and rodent mesh! I'm picking it up tomorrow. I will report back with finished product when I get this stuff down on the bridges.


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

What about rough cut lumber? Score the surface with a saw?


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## TORQUE-29er (Nov 26, 2008)

SoWal_MTBer said:


> Land Manager just returned my phone call and said his boss in Tallahassee gave him approval to go purchase rolls of galvanized lath and rodent mesh! I'm picking it up tomorrow. I will report back with finished product when I get this stuff down on the bridges.


The lath comes in sheets and has sharp edges you may want to cover these edges 
to prevent flats and people tripping on them. you could use something like this trim piece.>>>1/2 in. x 10 ft. Metal L Trim-360082321 at The Home Depot If you can't find flat stock,just bend this flat or as needed,cut with tin snips and frame the lath like you would a picture,use big head galv. roofing nails or simliar screws .:thumbsup:


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## 475856 (Feb 6, 2010)

SoWal_MTBer said:


> Land Manager just returned my phone call and said his boss in Tallahassee gave him approval to go purchase rolls of galvanized lath and rodent mesh! I'm picking it up tomorrow. I will report back with finished product when I get this stuff down on the bridges.


That is good news! 
To get help doing any kind of trail work is like pulling teeth from a worm. If all the lip service we get would move dirt as well as hot air, we'd be riding Mount Everest!!
Don't let it get you down and remind yourself that you do this for yourself and no one else. This will keep you sane.. Believe it, lest you want to go :madman:....:ihih::cornut:


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

i've seen galvanized chain link fence used as well


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks for all the help everyone. The first two bridges turned out great! I'll post up some detailed shots of what we used, how it was affixed, etc, but in the meantime here is a time-lapse video of some bridge maintenance.






Trail Work Day Time-lapse from Pine Trail Mountain Bikers on Vimeo.


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## ghglenn (Jan 26, 2012)

Nice job. Looks really good.


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## Summit Ridge Guy (Aug 16, 2010)

Love the pink wheelbarrow!! :crazy:


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Summit Ridge Guy said:


> Love the pink wheelbarrow!! :crazy:


In all fairness, it was red, but see's a lot of use.


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## Tulok (Oct 9, 2012)

Good work man, Now come to Socal and help me!


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## SoWal_MTBer (Jan 4, 2012)

Tulok said:


> Good work man, Now come to Socal and help me!


Would if I was closer!


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## kevindsingleton (Sep 17, 2012)

A bridge that's underwater is a paved creekbed! 

Great work on adding some traction. Sorry you have to do it all alone.


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## singlesprocket (Jun 9, 2004)

i've done this for a while now and it has help up on some dimensional wood features for over 10 years. i cut the shingles into pieces about 3" wide. coat the bottom of the shingle with a quality roofing cement. then nail the shingle down with galvanized roofing nails. i use around 4 nails.

some ramps that i built for a local trail



















oh, i always stain/paint the features that i build, as well as using an outdoor construction adhesive. it costs a little bit more but the features last.


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## CVSP.TC (Sep 21, 2020)

*elaborate please?*



robbiexor said:


> Hardware cloth has a notoriously short wear life and becomes more of a problem as it starts to break down. The potential for cuts and flats usually isn't worth the ease of implementation .


do you find that hardware cloth wears quick regardless of gauge? we can get 19 or 23 gauge for our boardwalks but i don't wanna invest in this if it's gonna last.

the boardwalks i'm fixing are in a protected natural area with many rare plants, so the grip paint or shingles are not a good option. i've looked into the steel lath but was told by an avid mtn biker that these can really tear you up if you biff. advice on all those options?

i hadn't even heard about chainlink fencing before this... does anyone have any specific experience with it?

thanks in advance!


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

Go with rough cut pressure treated. Score the surface if needed.


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## CVSP.TC (Sep 21, 2020)

leeboh said:


> Go with rough cut pressure treated. Score the surface if needed.


thanks! about how many years have you seen this option last?


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## CycleKrieg (Dec 19, 2013)

Livestock panels as deck mesh gripping is cheap, easy and lasts a long time.

You know, people have details for this sort of stuff...


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

CVSP.TC said:


> thanks! about how many years have you seen this option last?


 15 or so in New England.


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## indytrekracer (Feb 13, 2004)

We only deck bridges with rough cut cedar. This provides good traction without any metal, paint, or treatment chemicals. The decking typically outlasts the ground treated Stringers.

Typically we get the rough cut boards from Menards, but you can often get from a local mill and then get a very aggressive rough cut.


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## ki5ka (Dec 17, 2006)

*8 years on...*

So_WalMTBer, you still around?

Hows that wire mesh holding up?


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