# Alfine Assembly Help Needed



## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

Just got a new Alfine Internal Hub, Mine came without the sprocket-guard, Most of the ones that i have seen in photos showing the Alfine have the Guard.
I am having trouble getting it put together properly. Has anyone else bought one Recently and knows the proper arrangement/order of parts for one WITHOUT the Guard, it seems it is almost impossible to get the Cassette Joint Outer Lock Ring to turn when all is assembled, the instructions are NOT complete and VERY Vague and also ONLY show the model WITH the Sprocket guard, which mine came without.
The MAIN question i have is WHAT actually holds the SPROCKET to the HUB when the Cassette Shifting Joint is NOT attached, it seems i MIGHT just have an extra spacer which is what is making it confusing.
Any Help from someone experienced with the Alfine would be greatly appreciated.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

I have a Alfine hub, haven't used it yet. Mine didn't come with any sprockets, it did come with the inner guard. I have the 501 version of the hub, diagram found here:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...SG/EV-SG-S501-2788A_v1_m56577569830646705.pdf

I think the instructions found here are for the 500 version:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...7N0A-001_SG-S501-EN_v1_m56577569830638091.pdf

Looking at the diagram for the 501, the sprocket has the outer chain guide mounted on the sprocket. The instructions show a separate outer plate, maybe that's the difference between the older 500 and the newer 501?

Here's the Nexus 8R35 instructions, maybe these work for the newer Alfine 501 version:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...001_SG-8R30_8R35-EN_v1_m56577569830621137.pdf


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

The Nexus/Alfine (SturmyArcher/Sunrace, Sachs/Sram) hubs all use the same/similar 3-spline cog interface, the key is there is a split ring that snaps into the groove on the hub that holds the cog on.

The plastic guard on the Alfine is built into the cog (one side only) and is only available in 18t and 20t (I think), I'm running one of the older cogs on mine. The cogs can be flipped, which allows you 2 chainlines. If you flip the new cog with the plastic guard, you don't get the benefit. 

The outer lockring (plastic) should go one very easily, with minimal force. There should also be a plastic/rubber-like dust seal over the cog spline.


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## biketuna (Mar 28, 2008)

what's the difference between the 500 and the 501


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## knobbly2.35 (Mar 19, 2007)

Hi,

getting an alfine for my ht, but found out after ordering it that the chain line for the hub is 43ish mm while the frame has a chain line of 50mm :madman: . Will there be a problem with fitment? It is a slotted dropout frame if that's of any relevance. Thanks.


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## eric_syd (Nov 10, 2005)

*Frame chainline ?*

I don't think a frame has a specific chainline.

By stating 50mm, do you mean that's the closest position you can achieve with your chainring without touching the chainstays ?
If it is the case, forget my thread, If not: 
Chainline depends on your bottom bracket / crankset combination.
If you're using a square taper or Isis BB, you can just adjust the chainline by changing the spindle length and moving the chainring from the outside or inside position.
I have used my Alfine with a triple crankset with the chainring in the middle position without problem.


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

*alfine Cogs*



itsdoable said:


> The Nexus/Alfine (SturmyArcher/Sunrace, Sachs/Sram) hubs all use the same/similar 3-spline cog interface, the key is there is a split ring that snaps into the groove on the hub that holds the cog on.
> 
> The plastic guard on the Alfine is built into the cog (one side only) and is only available in 18t and 20t (I think), I'm running one of the older cogs on mine. The cogs can be flipped, which allows you 2 chainlines. If you flip the new cog with the plastic guard, you don't get the benefit.
> 
> The outer lockring (plastic) should go one very easily, with minimal force. There should also be a plastic/rubber-like dust seal over the cog spline.


Thanks for this info - i eventually came to the same conclusion about the SNAP RING holding the COG on, there is No Notation about this in the instructions or illustrations that came with my hub, also, the 20t cog that came with it has NO Plastic Ring on it, as the one in the instructions DOES as well as Most of the Alfine's i have seen in PHOTOS, so it was a bit confusing at first, apparently there are a few varieties of these now. i was eventually able to assemble the parts and the outer LOCK Ring did easily Twist on once everything was installed properly - i just received my Hub, so maybe the newer versions no longer Have the outer Plastic Ring? Also wanted to note that my 20t Cog, which came with it is NOT reversible as it is OFFSET (see 3rd pic below). if you reverse it, the chain will rub against the HUB, there is not enough room to run it flipped over, maybe this is also a more recent part change? Also - MY HUB is labeled 501, i do NOT know the difference between a 500 and a 501, but mine is the Non-Brake Version and the 20t cog came without the Plastic Guide and it is a 36 Hole Hub, Has ANYBODY seen a 32 Hole Alfine YET?
Below Photo is the ASSEMBLED HUB, ready to be built into a wheel. Hope this helps.


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## EGF168 (Aug 13, 2007)

UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> Thanks for this info - i eventually came to the same conclusion about the SNAP RING holding the COG on, there is No notation about this in the instructions or illustrations that came with my hub, also, the 20t cog that came with it has NO Plastic Ring on it, as the one in the instructions DOES, so it was a bit confusing at first, apparently there are a few varieties of these now. i was eventually able to assemble the parts and the outer ring did Twist on easily once everything lined up properly - i just received my Hub, so maybe the newer versions no longer Have the outer Plastic Ring. Also wanted to note that my 20t Cog, which came with it is NOT reversible as it is OFFSET. if you reverse it, the chain will rub against the HUB, there is not enough room to run it flipped over, maybe this is also a more recent part change? i can post a photo later today.


I got mine 2 weeks ago and it came with the plastic ring on the outside, I ordered the 18T ring though so maybe you don't get one with the 20T or something. There is only 1 hub, but the differences are the amount of spoke holes, ring sizes, colour, grip or trigger shifter, belt drive ring, centerlock or non disk version and various different dropout fittings for different bikes. :thumbsup:


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> Thanks for this info - i eventually came to the same conclusion about the SNAP RING holding the COG on, there is No Notation about this in the instructions or illustrations that came with my hub, also, the 20t cog that came with it has NO Plastic Ring on it, as the one in the instructions DOES as well as Most of the Alfine's i have seen in PHOTOS, so it was a bit confusing at first, apparently there are a few varieties of these now. i was eventually able to assemble the parts and the outer LOCK Ring did easily Twist on once everything was installed properly - i just received my Hub, so maybe the newer versions no longer Have the outer Plastic Ring? Also wanted to note that my 20t Cog, which came with it is NOT reversible as it is OFFSET (see 3rd pic below). if you reverse it, the chain will rub against the HUB, there is not enough room to run it flipped over, maybe this is also a more recent part change? Also - MY HUB is labeled 501, i do NOT know the difference between a 500 and a 501, but mine is the Non-Brake Version and the 20t cog came without the Plastic Guide and it is a 36 Hole Hub, Has ANYBODY seen a 32 Hole Alfine YET?


I have an SG-S500 32 hole silver hub.

In this country (Canada) the Alfine does not come as a kit. The hub, cog, shifter, shifting joint, non-turn washers, and snap ring must be purchased separately.(!)

Only the 18t and 20t cogs have an option to come with the plastic chain guide. But they are also available without, like all the cogs from 16t to 28t. My lbs didnot have any of the 18t or 20t cogs with the plastic chain guide, probably because Shimano Canada didn't have any in stock.

My instruction show the snap ring, but I might be mixing it up with the instruction form my older Nexus hub. The snap-ring / split-ring has been used on geared hubs (ie: sturmy-archers, sachs, etc...) for a century, so if your use to fixing them, they are common knowledge.

If you flip the cog, a narrow chain should not rub the plastic ring on the hub (which makes up the other side of the chain guide when you use the special 18t or 20t cogs). This is suppose to give you 2 possible chainlines. However, with a mtb frame with 135mm spacing usually requires the outer chain line, which means you can't use the fancy cogs with the chain guides. The plastic ring on the hub can be removed, and that may be necessary to run the inner chain line with the some older cogs. Cogs were available from several manufactures, and may have different offsets.

My SG-S500 was labeled rim-brake only. However, if you took off the rubber cap, and unbolted the metal cap underneath it, there was a centrelock spline for the disc brake, which I am using.


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

itsdoable said:


> I have an SG-S500 32 hole silver hub.
> 
> In this country (Canada) the Alfine does not come as a kit. The hub, cog, shifter, shifting joint, non-turn washers, and snap ring must be purchased separately.(!)
> 
> ...


Great info - thanks for the Details. I suppose with a Very Narrow chain - the offset cog MIGHT be flipped, but it would be TIGHT... i use an 8 speed chain, it looked like it would rub, but i have NOT actually installed mine in a frame yet to test that. WIsh i COULD have gotten a 32 Hole Hub as i am finding it tough to find a 36 Hole rim that i want... but i am optimistic i will.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

Knee-Toe, Looking at your pixs you've got it right. I just got mine up and running. I flipped the cog outward, makes the chain line right for using the middle chain ring of a 50mm triple. I've got a 32T Surly stainless chain ring and 32/34T bash guard on order.



UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> ...WIsh i COULD have gotten a 32 Hole Hub as i am finding it tough to find a 36 Hole rim that i want... but i am optimistic i will.


Harris has 32H Black Alfine hubs :thumbsup:


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

*Alfine looks great*



pursuiter said:


> Knee-Toe, Looking at your pixs you've got it right. I just got mine up and running. I flipped the cog outward, makes the chain line right for using the middle chain ring of a 50mm triple. I've got a 32T Surly stainless chain ring and 32/34T bash guard on order.
> 
> Harris has 32H Black Alfine hubs :thumbsup:


Thanks for the Chain-Line INFO and GREAT PICTURE. I do NOT have a Frame to install mine into YET, but yours looks great! WHAT SIze Rear cog are You running on your Set-up? Looks Larger, maybe 22t?


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> ...I do NOT have a Frame to install mine into YET, but yours looks great!


Thanks, are you waiting for something special order or are you still trying to make up your mind? We love helping spend other people's money 



> WHAT SIze Rear cog are You running on your Set-up? Looks Larger, maybe 22t?


Yes, that's a 22T. I'm replacing my 27 speed disaster that had a 22/34 as a low gear. I need something close. With 1st gear reduction of .527, a 32T frt and 22T rear on the Alfine is the same as a 22 frt, 30 rear (deralliuer style). Only question is, can the Alfine take such a low primary gear? I ground it up the local sled hill, no bad sounds, time will tell


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## eric_syd (Nov 10, 2005)

*to answer your question....*

MY HUB is labeled 501, i do NOT know the difference between a 500 and a 501, but mine is the Non-Brake Version and the 20t cog came without the Plastic Guide and it is a 36 Hole Hub, Has ANYBODY seen a 32 Hole Alfine YET?
I have a 32H 18T Alfine with centerlock mount.


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## knobbly2.35 (Mar 19, 2007)

the Alfine has arrived, yeah! But it came as a package with the chain guide cogs. Anyone know who makes the off-set cogs so I can use the outer chainline for my mtb frame? Thanks.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

eric_syd said:


> MY HUB is labeled 501, i do NOT know the difference between a 500 and a 501, but mine is the Non-Brake Version and the 20t cog came without the Plastic Guide and it is a 36 Hole Hub, Has ANYBODY seen a 32 Hole Alfine YET?
> I have a 32H 18T Alfine with centerlock mount.


501 version has some slight differences. Shimano Help desk has a diagram, it's too large file size and I can't upload it.

Harris has 36H and 32H black hubs, Shimano NA is out of silver.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

knobbly2.35 said:


> ...Anyone know who makes the off-set cogs so I can use the outer chainline for my mtb frame? Thanks.


Jenson has the best price on Shimano cogs that I've seen:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CS309Z02-Shimano+Cassette+Cogs.aspx

Anthing smaller than 19T has to be turned outward or else the chain hits the hub.


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## knobbly2.35 (Mar 19, 2007)

thanks pursuiter


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

The outboard cog position on an Alfine should yield a chainline of 49mm OCL(I think), which should line right up with a chainring in the middle position of most MTB triples, leaving the outer position open for a bashguard. The downside is the fact that your middle-ring size will probably be limited by the drive-side chainstay. I've been building Nexus/Alfine bikes with chainrings ranging from 30- to 38-teeth, and cogs from 16- to 22-teeth. Shimano recommends that your gearing doesn't venture too far below 2:1 in the 1:1 gear(#5).


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

prude said:


> ...Shimano recommends that your gearing doesn't venture too far below 2:1 in the 1:1 gear(#5).


Where did you get this info from?


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

That's the "official" stance of Shimano N.A., according to their rep, who was leading a Nexus clinic at FrostBike this past February. To be more specific, I believe he said that Shimano recommends that you stick with a 2:1 ratio, to avoid damaging the hub's internals. However, I have several friends riding lower range than that, with no ill effects thus far(knock on wood). I personally didn't feel a need to go lower than that, except on my Karate Monkey, where I'm running a 38x19 to offset the gear increase of the larger wheel size.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

Thanks, I've never seen anything in writing. I'm running 32x22 on my Alfine and 34x18 on my Nexus 8R35, if either blows up I'll re-think my set up. The SRAM i-M9 allows 1.73, I suppose the Shimano is even tougher.

Do you have any experience with the Nexus roller brake?


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

Boy, do I ever! I've set up several, in varying incarnations. So far, the IM70 has worked best. Pretty much all of 'em suck compared to a cable-actuated disc: They're heavy, draggy, pain in the butt to remove/replace the wheel, and none too much modulation. Still probably better than a rim brake, though.


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

prude said:


> That's the "official" stance of Shimano N.A., according to their rep, who was leading a Nexus clinic at FrostBike this past February. To be more specific, I believe he said that Shimano recommends that you stick with a 2:1 ratio, to avoid damaging the hub's internals. However, I have several friends riding lower range than that, with no ill effects thus far(knock on wood). I personally didn't feel a need to go lower than that, except on my Karate Monkey, where I'm running a 38x19 to offset the gear increase of the larger wheel size.


...Thanks for the Shimano Rep Info, i Think i understand his Meaning, Rohloff too says do not go below a 2.4:1 Gear Ratio. (Chainring/Cog Ratio). SO, Your Gear RATIO, @ 38/19 IS Always 2:1, regarding the Shimano Hubs when in the #5 (1:1) Position, the INPUT GEAR RATIO is Not Lowered or Affected by Wheel Size or Crank Lengths. The actual or Effective Gear Ratio against the HUB does NOT change, what Shimano (and Rohloff too) are attempting to do is limit the amount of Pedaling Forces Directly applied to the Hub, as you stated, SO Regarding Gear RATIO, yours IS a 2:1, as far as Gain Ratio or Gear Inches traveled when pedaling said Bicycle, that is a different Conversation and Not really Applicable to the scenario you mentioned. This Info is based on my own somewhat limited info and experience with IGH's, i have a Rohloff, Nexxus 7 and Alfine 8 now, IGH's RULE!
Hope this helps keep some of the IGH confusion down a bit. So, Gear Ratio in THIS scenario is really addressing Limiting the Pedaling Forces


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

prude said:


> ...Pretty much all of 'em suck compared to a cable-actuated disc: They're heavy, draggy, pain in the butt to remove/replace the wheel, and none too much modulation. Still probably better than a rim brake, though.


OK, so I have it set up right 

Is the finned thing supposed to be loose/floppy until the brake is applied?


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## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

prude said:


> That's the "official" stance of Shimano N.A., according to their rep, who was leading a Nexus clinic at FrostBike this past February. To be more specific, I believe he said that Shimano recommends that you stick with a 2:1 ratio, to avoid damaging the hub's internals. However, I have several friends riding lower range than that, with no ill effects thus far(knock on wood). I personally didn't feel a need to go lower than that, except on my Karate Monkey, where I'm running a 38x19 to offset the gear increase of the larger wheel size.


Was that specific to the Nexus, or was it also for the Alfine? I got a different response on the phone from a Shimano tech who told me there were no limits on the gearing ratio for the Alfine. I am running 33x22, putting some very hard torque on the hub (big rider with 190 mm cranks) so I am constantly paranoid about this.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

anthony.delorenzo said:


> ...I am constantly paranoid about this.


AD, I wouldn't worry. There's a thread on the 29er forum with lots of riders running low gears and no issues. There's nothing in writing, a Shimano tech is going to say higher is gooder, the higher the gear the better for the life of the hub. I couldn't care less, factoring in the cost of new chains/cassettes/derailliuers, not to mention the incredible hassle factor of traditional gears, I think I can swing a new Alfine every year 

When an IGH fails, the sun gears start wearing out, you'll hear grinding long before the hub dies completely. I'm not worried about a failure that could cause injury, there should be plenty of warning. It's much more likely the chain will fail suddenly.


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

I actually MEANT to say I'm running a 36x19 on my IGH 'Monkey. A 29" wheel will yield a 3" higher gear than a 26" in ALL gears, all other things being equal. Rohloff recommends 2.4:1 because the hub doesn't reach the 1:1 ratio until 11th gear. I was referring to the overall gearing of the drivetrain; of course you can't change the ratios internally. ;>)


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

I imagine it applies to the Alfine, too. I find it hard to believe that they made the Alfine any WEAKER than the Nexus. The rep just said to keep it AROUND 2:1 for overall gearing; I've gone lower with several bikes, with no ill effects so far. 33x22 is probably lower than I would go, and I only weigh about $1.45; but I really don't feel any need to go that low, either. I usually gear IGH bikes with the overall ratio right 'round where I would put a single, give or take(~2:1 for off-road, EXCEPT on a Rohloff). Pursuiter's right; there'll be PLENTY of warning before she blows. Just watch for the signs...
I guess I WOULD be somewhat concerned about catastrophic failure of the ratcheting mechanisms; those pawls are REALLY tiny...


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

Pretty much. They're basically a different twist on a drum brake, with the cam pushing the rollers against the inside of the brake pads, and the brake pads against the inside of the drum. Seems a bit 'round about and complicated; I don't know why you wouldn't just go with the simpler, more direct action of a drum brake. It's a wonder to me that they've been around as long as they have. I suppose someone at the big "S" bought a "bill of goods" on the design, and they had to get their investment back for the (undoubtedly EXPENSIVE)tooling. Do make sure that you've got your brake lever in the short-pull(cantilever/caliper) position, as per Shimano's recommendation; the modulation's crappier, but the power's increased.


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

prude said:


> ...I guess I WOULD be somewhat concerned about catastrophic failure of the ratcheting mechanisms; those pawls are REALLY tiny...


- no worse than a chain breaking

- the pawls are tiny on all freewheels, never seen a catastropic failure (yet). We're only speaking about 1HP motor.


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

If you've set up the chainline correctly, there should be no chance of chain breakage on a single-chainline IGH setup.
I HAVE seen freewheels fail catastrophically, it's usually not very pretty. Some of the pawls in those hubs are about 1/3 the size of normal freewheel pawls.
I have also been able to get several different IGHs to skip, especially in the lower gears, when the overall gearing is set up too low. I suppose I would at least invest in a BallFrog...


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## pursuiter (May 28, 2008)

Time will tell. Have you seen more failed freewheels than chains? 

I was looking at the Nexus 8R35/8R30 instructions and they specifically state to stay close to 2:1. No such language in the Alfine instructions. I am running 34/18 (1.89) on my 29er commuter. I never use 1,2 or 8. 3 and 4 rarely. 5,6,7 all the time. (So I'm really running a close ratio SA 3-speed?).


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Chains and freewheels both fail (on SS or IGH setups). Chains usually fail because something gets caught in there, or there is enough slack/wear for the chain to get hung up on a tooth. Cheap freewheels fail regularly, usually the pawls get sluggish because of grease & cold, and don't completely engage, or the pawl carrier or ring crack.

IGH's usually fail due to shifting under load, when you up-shift, a set of pawls are release and engage, and if they are a bit sluggish and don't engage completely, and you are on full power, it's not hard to get the grunch. If the pawl is then damaged (or contaminated) then you can get some slippage in that gear.

If you are gentle on the shifts, then something else usually breaks, like the axle or half shaft. BTDT.


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## prude (Nov 18, 2005)

That pretty mucha sum-up. Whether I've seen more chains than freewheels fail would depend on the specific cause. Most chain failures I've witnessed have been due to improper setup/chainline, poor maintenance, chainring grinds(Gawd!); while ALL of the freewheel failures I've seen have been due to internal failure. They haven't just been cheap freewheels, either, though premium models like the White seem virtually indestructible(as well they should!).


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Great thread. I was going to post some questions, but reading the posts above answered most of what I was going to ask about.

I'm hoping to run my cable up the chainstay on my Pugsley and the clearance between the chain and cable is tight when I run the 21T cog in the outboard position. When I flip the cog to the inboard position I get lots of clearance, but it might mess up my chainline. 

I'm hoping to get my cranks tomorrow so I can finish up. I'm running a Phl Wood square taper BB so I have a bit of play in the BB to move the chainring as long as it clears the front of the chainstay.

I'm planing on running a 32T chainring with a 21T cog. I've also got an 18T cog if I want to move the gear range up a bit. I'm not a big guy so hopefully I won't break anything with that ratio below 2:1.


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

*post a pic*



vikb said:


> Great thread. I was going to post some questions, but reading the posts above answered most of what I was going to ask about.
> 
> I'm hoping to run my cable up the chainstay on my Pugsley and the clearance between the chain and cable is tight when I run the 21T cog in the outboard position. When I flip the cog to the inboard position I get lots of clearance, but it might mess up my chainline.
> 
> ...


Very COOL - post a pic wen you finish her up, would love to see it!


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> Very COOL - post a pic wen you finish her up, would love to see it!












Here you go....more pics here....:thumbsup:


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## UN-COG-KNEE-TOE (Mar 7, 2008)

*Very Nice Alfine Set-up*



vikb said:


> Here you go....more pics here....:thumbsup:


.....GREAT BIKE - the racks are very nice too... good stuff! Thanks for posting the photo link!


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## 20.100 FR (Jan 13, 2004)

how do you guys suceed in installing the snap ring that locks the cog ? I have really a hard time, it's pretty stiff !


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## forwardcomponents (Dec 2, 2008)

prude said:


> The outboard cog position on an Alfine should yield a chainline of 49mm OCL(I think), which should line right up with a chainring in the middle position of most MTB triples, leaving the outer position open for a bashguard. The downside is the fact that your middle-ring size will probably be limited by the drive-side chainstay. I've been building Nexus/Alfine bikes with chainrings ranging from 30- to 38-teeth, and cogs from 16- to 22-teeth. Shimano recommends that your gearing doesn't venture too far below 2:1 in the 1:1 gear(#5).


Where did you find this information? I am trying to find out what the lowest gear ratio is for my Nexus 3 Disc hub(SG-3D55). It's all laced up into a wheel, and the shifter is on order, but I have no idea what gear ratio I can get away with. The instructions tell me nothing in several different languages! It came with a 19 tooth cog, for what that's worth.


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## komekomegaijin (Nov 9, 2008)

20.100 FR - you took the words right out of mouth! I just came on here looking for an answer to the same question!

Anyone got any tips on how to instal the snap ring that holds the cog on?



EDIT: 
Ok, quick answer to my own question - 2 flat head screwdrivers and brute force! Heaven forbid I ever want to change the cog!

Try to get one end of the snap ring pushed right down so it's almost engaging the groove. Hold it in position firmly with one screwdriver. Use the second screwdriver to work your way around from the end of the snap ring that you're already holding, prizing it over the flange. As you move around move the "holding screwdriver" along until you can finally press the other end of the snap ring into place. 

Hope that makes sense.


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## vorsprung (Dec 18, 2009)

Excellent information in this thread

I recently got a 36h Alfine and had the same puzzlement over what the instruction sheet calls the "Guard Plate"


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

A year ago there was discussion in this thread of the Shimano BR-IM70 roller brake. Is there a way to use this brake on the Alfine hub?

If not, is there another solution for using a roller or drum brake on an Alfine hub? 

I've got a 32H Alfine sitting here, but I'm not going to be able to use it without an alternative braking option -- rims and discs are out of the question for this particular bike.


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## TheBikeMechanic (Oct 26, 2009)

UN-COG-KNEE-TOE said:


> Great info - thanks for the Details. I suppose with a Very Narrow chain - the offset cog MIGHT be flipped, but it would be TIGHT... i use an 8 speed chain, it looked like it would rub, but i have NOT actually installed mine in a frame yet to test that. WIsh i COULD have gotten a 32 Hole Hub as i am finding it tough to find a 36 Hole rim that i want... but i am optimistic i will.


What kind of a rim are you looking for?


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