# The Lurch Lounge



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

This will be the thread for the Bikes Direct, Motobecane *Lurch 
*
Please post any questions, pictures, comments, modifications........here.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Now lets see who posts the first picture.


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## rschreck (Aug 11, 2014)

How come there isn't a Pugsley thread? I'm starting it. Haha.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Signature required....I will not be home at the time of delivery. :madman: Anyone use the "change delivery" option and have the bike sent to UPS Store?


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

rex615 said:


> Now lets see who posts the first picture.


Yeah, this will be fun. Mine doesn't arrive until 9/8. Others have already posted that theirs will be arriving as early as 9/4, so I'm looking forward to watching, while I'm waiting.


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

Mine is scheduled for delivery on 9/4 but may not be home to sign for it. I will probably have it redirected to a UPS store if it doesn't take additional days to do that.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

I tried to change delivery, but it would not allow me to do so. I was able to change it allow for delivery without signature. I will just have to wait and see how that goes. Delivery set for Thursday. At least I will be off on Friday to take delivery if they do not leave it Thursday. Fingers crossed.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Kickngas said:


> I tried to change delivery, but it would not allow me to do so. I was able to change it allow for delivery without signature.


Same here. The UPS site is not all that user-friendly wrt this action - I had to goof around for a while. I first went into the normal tracking screen and tried to use the 'Change Delivery' button,









. . . which would bring up this screen. When I logged in, it would just take me back to the first screen. And endless loop that was going nowhere.









Somehow, I eventually got to this page:









I clicked the 'Cycle Spectrum' link and it took me to this next page. I tried the 'Change Delivery' feature, and it sent me the message that I was not allowed to change delivery. Next I tried 'Provide Delivery Instructions'









. . . and it took me to this page, which allowed me to authorize the shipment release without signature.









I plan to work from home that afternoon so I am there when it comes anyway, but am glad to get the signature requirement waived, just in case it gets delivered outside of the estimated window.

I was hoping to get delivery changed to a pickup at UPS, on the off chance that this would allow me to pick it up on Friday, instead of waiting for delivery on Monday. I may try again next week to see if I can figure out a way to get this done.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Exactly what I had to do Spovegas...good tutorial. Looks like the only option. Oh well, the waiting has given me time to order accessories.


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

spovegas said:


> Same here. The UPS site is not all that user-friendly wrt this action - I had to goof around for a while. I first went into the normal tracking screen and tried to use the 'Change Delivery' button,
> 
> View attachment 919517
> 
> ...


Still can't get past the endless loop of signing in and changing delivery. Getting really frustrated. Considering UPS is the most expensive shipping option I figure they would have a functional website...


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

hedz0r said:


> Still can't get past the endless loop of signing in and changing delivery. Getting really frustrated. Considering UPS is the most expensive shipping option I figure they would have a functional website...


I have not tried 3 different browsers (Chrome, Firefox, IE) and none of them (no matter how many 'loops' I do of signing in and changing shipping) will let me progress to the calendar screen shown in spovegas's post. I have also noticed the website is too stupid to 'Remember Me' even when that box is checked.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

hedz0r,

Google 'ups my choice delivery planner' and pick the link shown.









It should take you to this page.









Follow the login process from here and it should take you right to the calendar.


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## Nail Every Trail (Sep 28, 2012)

The easiest way to change delivery option is to call Ups on the phone with your tracking number and tell them what you want. The web site bites. Good luck.


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

spovegas said:


> hedz0r,
> 
> Google 'ups my choice delivery planner' and pick the link shown.
> 
> ...


Yes I did end up doing this after I posted my last comment(rant). I have 3 packages being delivered this coming week, one on the 2nd, one on the 3rd and of course the Lurch on the 4th. My first two packages are listed on the Delivery Planner calendar and the Lurch is not. (go figure..) Begrudgingly I called UPS and their CSR was about as helpful as the website is. Unfortunately I was not able to 'release' my package via her, but she informed me I could on the website (......great......). She told me that since UPS only got the package yesterday it may be too soon to be able to control the shipping change on the website. This makes no sense to me as everyone's pre-ordered Lurch shipped yesterday and obviously people are able to change the shipping on their bikes. She told me to check their webpage the next few days to see if I will be able to change the shipping info then. Otherwise I need to call their Tech Support line. Since I am I am a software programmer I find this very frustrating and am positive she is feeding me a like of bull.... but will wait to see if I am every granted control over shipping on their awful website. My distaste for brown has just increased significantly.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

hedz0r said:


> Yes I did end up doing this after I posted my last comment(rant). I have 3 packages being delivered this coming week, one on the 2nd, one on the 3rd and of course the Lurch on the 4th. My first two packages are listed on the Delivery Planner calendar and the Lurch is not. (go figure..) Begrudgingly I called UPS and their CSR was about as helpful as the website is. Unfortunately I was not able to 'release' my package via her, but she informed me I could on the website (......great......). She told me that since UPS only got the package yesterday it may be too soon to be able to control the shipping change on the website. This makes no sense to me as everyone's pre-ordered Lurch shipped yesterday and obviously people are able to change the shipping on their bikes. She told me to check their webpage the next few days to see if I will be able to change the shipping info then. Otherwise I need to call their Tech Support line. Since I am I am a software programmer I find this very frustrating and am positive she is feeding me a like of bull.... but will wait to see if I am every granted control over shipping on their awful website. My distaste for brown has just increased significantly.


Sorry, man. Hope you have some better luck in the next few days.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Delivery scheduled for 9/4 and I should be home.


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

Nail Every Trail said:


> The easiest way to change delivery option is to call Ups on the phone with your tracking number and tell them what you want. The web site bites. Good luck.


Calling a person on the phone? what is that, sounds way to easy...


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

lbs.

rog


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Subbed. I want to live my Fatbike life vicariously thru you guys. Just emailed my signed contract to my new house tonight. Post lots of pics of your bikes and I promise to post a pic of my "New" house !


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## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

You guys should change the title of this thread to "the ins and outs of UPS delivery" and start a new Lurcher thread, lol.


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## dakar2001 (Apr 14, 2008)

I learned something!


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

FWIW, I never bother with all of the online delivery rescheduling stuff. I just leave a yellow sticky note taped to my front door that says "UPS (or Fedex) please leave delivery without signature". Hasn't failed me yet.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Stopbreakindown said:


> You guys should change the title of this thread to "the ins and outs of UPS delivery" and start a new Lurcher thread, lol.


Not as exciting as pic of new bike but the information is pertinent and timely because many of us are going through this same issue due to work schedules and what not.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

Stopbreakindown said:


> You guys should change the title of this thread to "the ins and outs of UPS delivery" and start a new Lurcher thread, lol.


No sh*t! By the time one of us gets his Lurch, there will be 5 pages of this crap. lol


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

I recently was having the same awful time trying to get a package (handlebar bag) left at my door without a signature. It finally worked after signing up for UPS My Choice through Facebook. https://apps.facebook.com/ups_mychoice/ I signed in through FB and then clicked the link in the FB UPS My Choice app for "Will Call" so I could pick up the package at a UPS Customer Center nearby. It was best option for me since I work during the week and was not home to sign for package after 2 delivery attempts. I just signed/picked up package today (Sat.) since their hours 10am-3pm fit my schedule on the weekend. It would be very helpful if UPS had online option so you could "Leave package at door without signature" and you could simply "check" a box that stated that UPS is not liable for packages left at residence.

The FB UPS My Choice app also has "Add Reroute Packages" = Invite trusted friends and family to accept packages on your behalf when you are away. When you click link, it brings up all your FB friends list and helps send them a message: "I need your help. Have you ever missed the delivery of an important package because you couldn't be home to pick it up? By accepting this request, you can receive rerouted packages from me in case I can't be at home. Please accept my request."

Hope this info helps someone.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

Stopbreakindown said:


> You guys should change the title of this thread to "the ins and outs of UPS delivery" and start a new Lurcher thread, lol.


90% of the posts in the 100 page plus Moto Bike's Direct thread are concerned with people who post to say one of three things: they ordered, their order is on the way, or they ordered a motobecane fatty vs. brand X. The other 10% is people posting to defend their direct, online purchase.

Pictures of bikes and actual ride reports appear as statistical anomalies.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

*Temporary Relief*









It is a stock pic from BD's Facebook page but at least it is a pic.

Mine is supposed to be team orange.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Thanks for posting a pic of MY bike!


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

OK. I decided on a Lurch. I just need to decide on size. I am 6' 1", but have long upper torso and arms. I wear long tall shirts, as large is to short and xl is too wide. My pants are 32" inseam. I have rode large Proflex 957 for 12 years (stolen), large Kona ht, large Specialized FSR Expert. 

I would assume a 20". 

Opinions?

This will be my only bike. Mainly used for towing kids in Burley and fun. Rare trail use. Lots of winter use.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

wrightcs77 said:


> OK. I decided on a Lurch. I just need to decide on size.
> I would assume a 20".


UPDATE



wrightcs77 said:


> Ordered the only 20" they had in stock. Not the color option I wanted, but a first fat bike is better than no fat bike!


Welcome: One more Lurch owner!


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

rex615 said:


> UPDATE
> 
> Welcome: One more Lurch owner!


Thanks. Looking forward to trying it out.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

I plan on taking the Lurch apart, before even riding it, to check everything out and replace/repack bearing grease. I figure it will be good insurance since I will be mainly riding the beaches of NC. On a mission. What grease would you guys recommend to help stave off the salt water as best as possible?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Kickngas said:


> I plan on taking the Lurch apart, before even riding it, to check everything out and replace/repack bearing grease. I figure it will be good insurance since I will be mainly riding the beaches of NC. On a mission. What grease would you guys recommend to help stave off the salt water as best as possible?


Marine grease is generally accepted as the best option for "ocean going" bicycles. You can use Phil's if you really want to be baller, but it basically repackaged marine grease.

While adjustment and lubrication is a very good practice with a new bike from BD, I don't know how much you can actually repack on a Lurch. According to the specs and what i can see in the pics, the bottom bracket is sealed and the wheel bearing appear to be sealed also.

The head bearings would be recommended since they are the first to get splashed if you don't run fenders.

Please let us know what you find when you do your initial inspection.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Will do. Pics as well!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

According to the UPS website my Lurch sat in Houston TX all weekend. At 6:13 am it left Houston. Still a long way from North Carolina.

Delivery is still scheduled for Thursday. 

Cant wait.


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

Ordered a lurch on Sunday. Waiting to get s shipping or tracking email. I know they were closed over the holiday weekend. Just never got a tracking number when I ordered like most seemed to have. 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

wrightcs77 said:


> Ordered a lurch on Sunday. Waiting to get s shipping or tracking email. I know they were closed over the holiday weekend. Just never got a tracking number when I ordered like most seemed to have.


I believe the tracking number is usually sent the next working day after you place an order. They have to process it and get in touch with UPS who actually activates the tracking number. So you should get one later today or tomorrow.

In the case of the "pre-ordered" Lurches, an inactive tracking number was issued the next day, but it didn't show activity until the bike actually shipped.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Ordered my black lurch a month ago. UPS says it will arrive by Friday. The only thing I have planned is to apply frame saver the inside of the frame and fork. I have some thomson bits from my 29r that might go on the lurch but I really wanna just leave it stock and just ride the damn thing! I would like to try tubeless at some point but I will wait till other folks do it first.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Slow Danger said:


> 90% of the posts in the 100 page plus Moto Bike's Direct thread are concerned with people who post to say one of three things: they ordered, their order is on the way, or they ordered a motobecane fatty vs. brand X. The other 10% is people posting to defend their direct, online purchase.
> 
> Pictures of bikes and actual ride reports appear as statistical anomalies.


haha! nailed it!


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

Slow Danger said:


> 90% of the posts in the 100 page plus Moto Bike's Direct thread are concerned with people who post to say one of three things: they ordered, their order is on the way, or they ordered a motobecane fatty vs. brand X. The other 10% is people posting to defend their direct, online purchase.
> 
> Pictures of bikes and actual ride reports appear as statistical anomalies.


You forgot to mention, "What size bike should I get?"


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sml-2727 said:


> You forgot to mention, "What size bike should I get?"


i
And a bunch of replies telling you the size you picked is wrong for you.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

My approach to the Motobecane Lurch (mine will be arriving tomorrow) was this:

I looked at the frame geometry of the Lurch on BikesDirect's website. It is uncannily close to the Surly Moonlander. I went to one of my trusted local bike shops, spoke with them about what I was planning on doing (transparency here was important to me) and took a few different size Moonlanders out for test rides. Now I'm 5'8" with a 30.5" inseam and freakishly long arms. I ended up deciding on the 16" Lurch. This may not be a luxury or opportunity that everyone has, but taking a look at the frame geometry and then finding a comparable bike in a shop to test fit yourself to has worked for me in the past and will likely work for me here.

Though these bikes come "90%" assembled, it'd be wise to make sure to torque the stem face bolts properly, check caliper alignment, and bed the discs gradually. There are some pretty good tutorials about bedding pads and rotors for optimal function. This one has served me well in the past: http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/

One of the great things is BikesDirect is producing a fat tire bike with a decent frame at a price that will get people that otherwise wouldn't be able to afford them, on a fat bike. The bike can easily turn into a tweaker's dream. Hope everyone that gets one enjoys it. I just wish I would have been a little more patient because now the purple is in stock (mine will be black).

I'll post some photos of the ride when I get it together this weekend and will be riding it in the last underwear bike ride of the year in Milwaukee.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

For those interested in geometry comparison.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

genefruit said:


> I just run across the Acros Blocklock headset that's been out for a few years but I'd never heard of it. I have not experience with it (yet) - BLOCKLOCK - ACROS


Neat solution to limit Fork travel. Might be useful for running a Bluto on the Lurch.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

That right there is very interesting. $71.00 for the upper headset assembly from Universal Cycles.


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## tyriverag (Jan 22, 2014)

Don't be afraid to weigh your brand new Lurch and/or parts!


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

I'll say upwards of 40 lbs depending on frame size.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

My lovely Yellow Lurch land in Wenatchee on Thursday 

Yes Dorothy, we will go riding fat on Friday!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Hackinator said:


> I'll say upwards of 40 lbs depending on frame size.


Since we are guessing, I say my 22" will go 38lbs.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

You are probably close, not 40lb. Lg Boris was 35lb. I'd guess 37/38
I cancelled a week ago but back in with 20/Grape. The small dia. tubes are just too nice

Edit/ I was referring to the first generation Boris/72TPI


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

rjedoaks said:


> You are probably close, not 40lb. Lg Boris was 35lb. I'd guess 37/38
> I cancelled a week ago but back in with 20/Grape. The small dia. tubes are just too nice


And most of that weight is in the wheels and tires, when ever I took them off the frame is super light.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

I will put mine on the digital scale this weekend when I build it at the shop and snap a photo for verification.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

rjedoaks said:


> You are probably close, not 40lb. *Lg Boris was 35lb.* I'd guess 37/38
> I cancelled a week ago but back in with 20/Grape. The small dia. tubes are just too nice


In that case, I will revise my guess to 37lbs. The Lurch's steel frame is prolly only 2 pounds heavier than the Boris' aluminium frame. The tires on the Lurch are probably lighter too.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

*No bike yet, but the goodies are starting to come in.*









My summer tires and a spare toob.

I will probably save the Snowshoes for that first snow. (like we get much snow in the Carolinas)

Plus these tires remind me of trials universals like they run on trials motorbikes.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

rex615 said:


> In that case, I will revise my guess to 37lbs. The Lurch's steel frame is prolly only 2 pounds heavier than the Boris' aluminium frame. The tires on the Lurch are probably lighter too.


Boris X9 tires are 120 tpi, Lurch tires are 72 tpi...so probably not lighter than the Boris tires. At least look at provided specs before guestimating. Is this entire thread going to be dominated by you guessing about sh!t and spouting conjectural crap? Because if so, I will start a different Lurch thread with actual info when mine arrives with useful information that can be utilized by other rider/owners. LOL to that.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> I will start a different Lurch thread with actual info when mine arrives with useful information that can be utilized by other rider/owners. LOL to that.


Be my guest, there is plenty of room on the internet.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> At least look at provided specs before guestimating. Is this entire thread going to be dominated by you guessing about sh!t and spouting conjectural crap? Because if so, I will start a different Lurch thread with actual info when mine arrives with useful information that can be utilized by other rider/owners.


Calm the hate if you can, man. Seems to just be people excited about their new rides. Seem like intellectual people that will share helpful information once the bikes arrive. Ain't no thang. If anything just let people know that commonly higher threads per inch mean lighter.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

He is just upset that his call to stop the use of LOL fell on deaf ears.

Post #3179 over on the "Moto / bikes direct fatbikes!" thread



watermonkey said:


> A Call to End the Use of ?Lol? | Thought Catalog


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

watermonkey said:


> Boris X9 tires are 120 tpi, Lurch tires are 72 tpi...so probably not lighter than the Boris tires. At least look at provided specs before guestimating. Is this entire thread going to be dominated by you guessing about sh!t and spouting conjectural crap? Because if so, I will start a different Lurch thread with actual info when mine arrives with useful information that can be utilized by other rider/owners. LOL to that.


I guess we'll see about tire weights soon, but 120 tpi vs 72 tpi isn't the only difference with the tires.

Boris X9 tires - VEE Rubber 26"x4.0 MISSION 120TPI FB F/V
Mission | VEE Tire Co.
1370 (probably 120tpi folding) -1930 (probably 72tpi wire bead) claimed 
Tire Weights for Fat-Bikes | FAT-BIKE.COM
1370-1420g measured

Lurch tires - VEE RUBBER	26X4.5 Snow Shoe SBK 72TPI Foldable
Snowshoe | VEE Tire Co.
1260g (probably 120tpi) -1485g (probably 72tpi) claimed

Supposedly, Vee is conservative with weight estimates, so the tires might actually be quite comparable in weight.
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/vee-rubber-snowshoe-4-7-weight-879551.html


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

Looking forward to see what people think when they receive their bikes Thursday. 

I will be getting mine on Friday. Hoping not too many issues.


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## treym563 (Jul 24, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Boris X9 tires are 120 tpi, Lurch tires are 72 tpi...so probably not lighter than the Boris tires. At least look at provided specs before guestimating. Is this entire thread going to be dominated by you guessing about sh!t and spouting conjectural crap? Because if so, I will start a different Lurch thread with actual info when mine arrives with useful information that can be utilized by other rider/owners. LOL to that.


So you're mad about someone not providing concrete evidence to support their claim, then you say "so probably not lighter than the Boris tires". Go home, Steve.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

"We were unable to dispatch the trailer on time. This may cause a delay." Ha! Good thing I stayed home from work today for the signature....


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Arrived*

Packaged as expected, no issues as of yet, but this is just the initial assembly. Didn't receive pedals. Initial impression - pretty impressed. Paint job is beautiful, welds are clean, packaged well and survived transport, pre assembly on par with the 100+ other bikes i've built out of the box. Time to tune and hit the trails (and steal pedals off another ride). Specs and weights to come.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Packaged as expected, no issues as of yet, but this is just the initial assembly. Didn't receive pedals. Initial impression - pretty impressed. Paint job is beautiful, welds are clean, packaged well and survived transport, pre assembly on par with the 100+ other bikes i've built out of the box. Time to tune and hit the trails (and steal pedals off another ride). Specs and weights to come.


That purple is freakin' awesome!


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Another purple here. Bike box had a few small holes at top and there is a bit of damage to clear coat on top tube. I can live with it but I'll ask BD about it. Otherwise bike is awesome, will hit local single track tonight. Weighs in at just under 40lbs for the XL with spd.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Those purple bikes would probably look good with the red rim strips that are supposedly included in the box.


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Yes the red rim strips are included but you know how it is when you just want to get it together and ride it around the block. Might try red tonight when I attempt tubeless.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Some initial weights - medium stock w/cheap plastic platforms - 38.5 ish lbs (headed to bike shop for ghetto tubeless supplies next - will weigh there with swapped out thompson elite setback post and stem and different (but same weight) wtb saddle.
stock saddle - 306 g
stock post - 340 g
stock stem (100 mm 7 deg.) - 158 g
red rim strips - 152 g/per strip.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Damn I shouldve got purple...looks surprisingly good.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Well Rex, looks like we were both wrong about the weight
The frames look beefier up close
Look great

Pedaling


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

As a complete and utter voyeur on this thread (me, one of the many 'guys still shopping for his first fattie' types), finally glad to be seeing, you know, actual bikes  and not invoices, shipping directions or accessories. 

Looking forward to the ride reports and pictures in the wild Gentlemen...


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

watermonkey said:


> Packaged as expected, no issues as of yet, but this is just the initial assembly. Didn't receive pedals. Initial impression - pretty impressed. Paint job is beautiful, welds are clean, packaged well and survived transport, pre assembly on par with the 100+ other bikes i've built out of the box. Time to tune and hit the trails (and steal pedals off another ride). Specs and weights to come.


So the bike didn't come with pedals? I thought it was advertised as sold with pedals. My orange lurch just arrived at my apartment, and before I head home I'd like to know if I'm going to need to buy pedals beforehand.


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## treym563 (Jul 24, 2014)

I think you answered your own question. You should buy pedals.


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## tyriverag (Jan 22, 2014)

Should have come with pedals: Pedals	VP-530 ALLOY BLACK W/CPSC REFLECTOR

But that purple looks A W E S O M E


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

tyriverag said:


> Should have come with pedals: PedalsVP-530 ALLOY BLACK W/CPSC REFLECTOR


What he said...thank you.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

rjedoaks said:


> Well Rex, looks like we were both wrong about the weight
> The frames look beefier up close
> Look great
> 
> Pedaling


My guess was wrong by quite a bit. Wishful thinking.....

Those purple bikes are looking awesome! Congrats guys.

Still waiting on mine.


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## Apeking101 (Sep 4, 2014)

Hi all,
Just pulled the trigger on a lurch, was wondering if one of you guys who have received yours could post a pic of the rear wheel seat stay clearance. Just curious how much room there is for larger tires.

Thanks in advance.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Hackinator said:


> upwards of 40 lbs depending on frame size.


I still lost because I went over on weight . Just got mine delivered to the office. I'll be assembling it at home in an hour or so. Photos to come.


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## draco_m (Oct 13, 2013)

Would LOVE to see detailed pics and get some "first ride" reports. Also let us know if there were any problems in the assembly process. Thank you so much to those who are taking the time to share information with the rest of us. Congrats on your beautiful new bikes.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

So SOOO jealous.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Apeking101 said:


> Hi all,
> Just pulled the trigger on a lurch, was wondering if one of you guys who have received yours could post a pic of the rear wheel seat stay clearance. Just curious how much room there is for larger tires.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


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## Apeking101 (Sep 4, 2014)

Awesome, thanks for the pics


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

To the individual that asked again - there were not any pedals in the box.
No assembly issues whatsoever. The only thing I've found so far is that there was one loose chainring bolt, and that tightened down easily enough.

First ride report: This bike is awesome. Snowshoes are great, minimal to nonexistent self steer. BB7's, once bedded in work great - not as good as the XT's on my Yeti, but damn close enough.

Samox - cranks seem fine and stiff, Q factor not as bad as I thought it was going to be. However, after several miles, as the front derailleur set in, I did drop the chain over the big chainring, and the pin to keep the chain from wedging between the crank arm and chainring is NOT long enough to keep the chain out, so stay on top of your high end limiter screw on the front derailleur. Maybe there's a bashgaurd in my future.

Fittment - I'm 5'10", 31 in inseam, 18" fits fine with sufficient standover for my preferences. I could not imagine going down to a 16" to gain a little more clearance. In fact, even on the 18", I'm using a Thompson setback post to gain a little room and would feel cramped if I went with less than an 80mm stem. But, I prefer to be stretched out more than some others.

More weights:
Front wheel with rim strip, skewer and 8" rotor = 1886 grams

I didn't weight the tubes, but they are meaty beasts.

Snowshoe - 1335 g


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

so how many folks who got their lurches with pedals? just trying to figure out if it was an error or if they really aren't shipping w pedals? don't want to finally get it and then not be able to ride...Friday shipping date for me!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Note: If you plan on assembling the bike yourself make sure you have a T25 Torx bit to install the front disc brake rotor bolts onto the hub.


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## NDTransplant (Feb 6, 2012)

Help out a noob to the FatBike Scene...

In the 'budget' fat bike arena.... the Motobecane Lurch, with it's tapered head tube and 'thru-axle ready wheels' (per Bikes Direct website) is the lowest price option that could readily accept the RokShox Bluto fork, AND accept a 5" tire. Am I correct in that statement?

If a Bluto is on one's the radar, perhaps the Sturgis Bullet becomes a better choice?

Lurch, Sturgis, super-cheap Boris X-5...having a heck of a time deciding what to do.

Gotta say the purple-colored Lurch...WOW!


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

watermonkey said:


> To the individual that asked again - there were not any pedals in the box.
> No assembly issues whatsoever. The only thing I've found so far is that there was one loose chainring bolt, and that tightened down easily enough.
> 
> First ride report: This bike is awesome. Snowshoes are great, minimal to nonexistent self steer. BB7's, once bedded in work great - not as good as the XT's on my Yeti, but damn close enough.
> ...


Thanks for the feedback and great to see the Snowshoes come in at a nice weight for being 72tpi 4.5's.

Annoyed that UPS didn't deliver on time today and hoping my bike is successfully delivered tomorrow...


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

who's going to be the first to slam the rear wheel forward in the dropouts? Since short chain stays seem to be in vogue .


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Different Lurch Frames?*

OK, let the weirdness begin. Hackinator, you're black frame is different than mine. Yours has a seat stay gusset, mine a cross bar, and I've got close to 3/4" tire clearance, one each side. You're showing <1/2". What size frame did you get? Looks like I already lost a cable housing clamp.
FYI - the snowshoes measure out at exactly 4" wide @ 10 psi.

Frame Flex - not noticeable, and I'm a pedal mashing clydesdale. Even when standing and pedalling hard, I don't notice much lateral flex at all. On my 575, if I really get after it, the rear carbon triangle flexes enough that the rotor briefly rubs. Maybe the massive 190 spacing adds some sort of additional structural strength.

This might be the prettiest bike I've ever rode. I don't normally name my bikes, but this one, I think, needs one.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> What size frame did you get?
> View attachment 921009
> View attachment 921010


Mine is a 16" frame.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

In the wild. Loving it! I'll post a review and more photos later.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

you guys all running high psi or does rim tape just pop outl ike that even at low pressure?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

Where did you get your scale at?


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

No pedals with mine either. :-( I know they weren't going to be top of the line, but I wanted what was advertised. Anyone else going to make a complaint?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

That purple sure is pretty, it was a close tie with yellow, but I just wanted something light colored for once; all my bikes are black.

If my wife likes it, the second one will be purple


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Got my size Medium Lurch today. Took my sweet time putting it together and just admiring it. I have ridden a lot of fatbikes, and I am very impressed with the quality of this bike. Frame is beautiful, components are good quality from what I can tell, paint job is great, packing job was good. There were a couple of minor scuffs on the left side of the frame, but not very noticeable. Pedals were not in the box. I wasn't planning on using them on the Lurch, but I was planning on putting them on my wife's bike. So yeah, I will send an email to BD about it. Derailleurs were dialed in right out of the box. Brakes work very, very well for mechanical. I've always had hydros and I'm impressed.

Looking at the tire clearance, there looks to be plenty of room for 4.8's in the front and rear.

From previous posts, I know this bike is heavy. However, it really doesn't feel heavy when I'm riding it. Going up hills are fine. I can tell it's heavier than my 29er, but it doesn't seem to affect the ride. It just rides more like a tractor instead of an SUV. It'll drop a couple of pounds when I convert to tubeless this weekend. I didn't get in a thorough ride since it's almost 95 degrees today. I'll post a better ride review later. For those who have ridden a Pugsley, it rides just like one of those.

It doesn't fit the bike carrier, but it will with a few modifications to the carrier.


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

YESSS!!!! First in with Metallic Gray! So many purples my head is spinning! 

First off, let me say this bike is VERY well put together, everything fits amazing and the frame welds are beautiful. Assembly went together just like every other mail order bike I've received (including 2 Airbornes) however I was not totally thrilled with the packing; more on this later.

As you can see from the box pics there were a couple 'blow-throughs' that had me concerned, but since all the pointy bits (axles and the like) had plastic protective covers this was a non-issue.





Heres my issue with the packing, upon opening the box everything looked okay. I lifted the bike up by the top tube and the frame and front wheel came out in one piece. The crank arm was 'threaded' through the spokes in the front wheel, immediately I noticed the front wheel was all kinds of dinged up (not just scratches, this is down to bare metal and rough) however the crank arm seemed fine.







Please note I have not spoken to BD yet to see what kind of resolution we can come to on the obviously damaged wheel.

Bike in the air, some red goodies thrown on already


and the money shots:









I tried very hard to get some pics of the beautiful Metallic Gray paint, but since I took delivery of the bike at 5:30 and it was well after 6:30 once everything was put together I was not able to capture how nice it REALLY looks but here are some attempts with the flash turned on.





Also my Lurch did not come with pedals or pedal washers. I cannot comment on the quality of the stem or handlebars or Avid FS5 brake levers as I changed all these out for other parts.


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## Nail Every Trail (Sep 28, 2012)

Wow, those Lurches look really nice in the pictures. So much nicer than the image BD has on their website. Enjoy them!


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Here's my orange.








Pictures don't do it justice. This color is juicier and richer.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Nice.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Initial observations after doing 40 miles on the Lurch:

1. Ensure the non driveside crank arm (two Allen screws) are torqued down to proper specs. I had some creaking/slipping happening until I set them to the correct torque.

2. Shifters and brake levers come installed in such a way that you or a mechanic will likely have to adjust them on the bars.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

hedz0r said:


> YESSS!!!! First in with Metallic Gray! So many purples my head is spinning!


Nice looking Lurch!

BTW, my wrists hurt just looking at the handlebar setup. I'd rotate the bars back so the sweep is actually sweep not rise, but maybe that's just me.

I like the red accents. Enjoy the ride...


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Photos of the Lurch for you all.


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## ElectronJunk (May 2, 2008)

*Lurch*









Put 12 miles of single track on the Lurch yesterday after getting it all setup the way I like and tensioning the spokes, and torquing all fasteners. This thing actually weighs 3 pounds less than my Motobecane Fantom Elite DS, which was a welcome surprise. Glad I got the 20" frame as the standover height is actually 30.5" compared to Bikesdirect 32" listing. Rolls very easy and climbs sandy rocky hills with ease. Very Pleased.


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Motobecane Fantom Elite DS weighs over 40 lbs? How is that possible?


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

I got my 14 inch black Lurch home last night. Everything looked good and went together nicely. I didn't have time to adjust the brakes or play with the derailleurs. I'm not good with derailleurs and have never adjusted a disk brake so we will see.....

A couple of questions:

There are two black plastic pieces about six inches long taped together, I have no idea what they are. packing material?

Also, the clear plastic piece between the cassette and spokes doesn't want to stay nice. Should it be removed?

Thanks in advance
Jim

Not sure why but I can't get my pics to upload??????


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

FYI: The Bikes Direct spec list shows pedals as NA and they are not shown on the pictures of the bike, so it looks like pedals are NOT included.

Sadly for me, my bike was delayed in TX for shipping, so I'm on hold until next week 

So, I was looking at the pics and it appears that the lower cup is internal to the frame. If this is the case, then an external cup would raise the front end more than 2mm, which should provide sufficient clearance for a Bluto.

Can anyone confirm?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

jimmac23 said:


> A couple of questions:
> 
> There are two black plastic pieces about six inches long taped together, I have no idea what they are. packing material?
> 
> ...


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> So, I was looking at the pics and it appears that the lower cup is internal to the frame. If this is the case, then an external cup would raise the front end more than 2mm, which should provide sufficient clearance for a Bluto.
> 
> Can anyone confirm?











Bottom cup is internal.


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## ElectronJunk (May 2, 2008)

froggy2288 said:


> Motobecane Fantom Elite DS weighs over 40 lbs? How is that possible?


I use my DS for downhill rides so I have heavy 2.4 inch wide tires, heavy duty tubes, dropper seat post, fenders, heavy duty Black Spire chainring protector, 8" front rotor, 7" rear rotor, head light and battery pack, besides the 08 Fantom Elite DS is a 30 lb bike stock. Comparing stock to stock yes the Lurch is 10 pounds heavier.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> FYI: The Bikes Direct spec list shows pedals as NA and they are not shown on the pictures of the bike, so it looks like pedals are NOT included.
> 
> Sadly for me, my bike was delayed in TX for shipping, so I'm on hold until next week
> 
> ...


As of yesterday when I got a screenshot of the BD lurch specs, pedals were still listed as included, which I included in my email to BD on the missing pedals, so they should honor the pedal specs thing and ship pedals to everyone on this order.

Looking at another FSA headset compared to the stock Lurch one, I calculated that an external lower cup would add an additional 7-8 mm of stack height below the head tube. More than enough for Bluto clearance, per the BD statement that the Bluto lockout did not clear the down tube by 2mm - we still don't know which size frame they were referencing with this.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> As of yesterday when I got a screenshot of the BD lurch specs, pedals were still listed as included, which I included in my email to BD on the missing pedals, so they should honor the pedal specs thing and ship pedals to everyone on this order.


watermonkey could you please post a sentence or two from your email to Bikes Direct requesting pedals be sent. I didn't receive them either and it would be helpful for all of us to send something to BD to get thos moving along.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

Hello,

I am sorry to hear your bike arrived without pedals, I will be glad to help.

Unfortunately The factory forgot the pedals in all of our lurches and we just found out. I have some pedals on order that I can send out when they arrive or I can simply refund you $20 and you can purchase the pedals of your choice.

Please let me know.

Best regards,

Larry @ Bikes Direct



Nurse Ben said:


> FYI: The Bikes Direct spec list shows pedals as NA and they are not shown on the pictures of the bike, so it looks like pedals are NOT included.
> 
> Sadly for me, my bike was delayed in TX for shipping, so I'm on hold until next week
> 
> ...


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> As of yesterday when I got a screenshot of the BD lurch specs, pedals were still listed as included, which I included in my email to BD on the missing pedals, so they should honor the pedal specs thing and ship pedals to everyone on this order.
> 
> Looking at another FSA headset compared to the stock Lurch one, I calculated that an external lower cup would add an additional 7-8 mm of stack height below the head tube. More than enough for Bluto clearance, per the BD statement that the Bluto lockout did not clear the down tube by 2mm - we still don't know which size frame they were referencing with this.


I'm not mechanically savy so pardon my dumb question...I believe the Bluto can be purchased with an optional remote lockout. Would the remote allow for additional clearance?


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Ralph said:


> I'm not mechanically savy so pardon my dumb question...I believe the Bluto can be purchased with an optional remote lockout. Would the remote allow for additional clearance?


The optional remote lockout is a handlebar mounted switch which allows the rider to turn the suspension feature of the fork on or off without having to reach down to the fork crown where the switch is commonly located. The remote lockout will have nothing to do with fork clearance.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

I think his question was will the lockout itself be a different shape and maybe clear the down tube


Pedaling


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

SeaHag said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am sorry to hear your bike arrived without pedals, I will be glad to help.
> 
> ...


If it were me i would take the $20. especially if they are the same bear traps that came on my bullseye monster.


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## brassos (Aug 10, 2014)

hey guys,
Just lurching...I mean Lurking. I bought a pair of these for my Boris.
They are new with removable pins.
Wellgo Platform Pedals LU313 with Replacable Pins 9 16 Blue BMX MTB | eBay
And cheap...far better than the ones BD sends us.
Scott


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## dakar2001 (Apr 14, 2008)

*Yella Fella*

Nice packaging. The paint is a little light in welds and a weird reddish powder was all over bike (from shipping?). Only casualty is crushed shift cable and no pedals&#8230; For the money can't go wrong.:thumbsup:


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## tonyvt (Mar 26, 2010)

My purple Lurch arrived this morning with numerous scratches and abrasions to the paint. Also there is more considerable damage to the bottom surfaces of the fork dropouts where large sections of paint are completely missing. The two taped together pieces of plastic mentioned in an earlier post appear to have popped off in transit causing the fork to rub on shipping box. I have emailed Bikes Direct and am waiting on a response.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

rjedoaks said:


> I think his question was will the lockout itself be a different shape and maybe clear the down tube
> 
> Pedaling


Thanks...yes, that's what I meant. I've got a remote on my hardtail and was wondering if the Bluto with remote might clear since it eliminates the lever.


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

BD refunded me $30 for the clear coat blemish that I touched up with a few drops of automotive clear coat. They did offer me to ship bike back and get new frame but I don't think it's worth it due to the tiny amount of damage. Also I got $20 back for missing pedals. BD customer service is fast and fair.


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## draco_m (Oct 13, 2013)

Is the Lurch the least expensive fatbike with steel (chromoly) frame?


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## gibsonra (Jun 6, 2004)

Love it. I have owned something from almost every brand and I love this bike. You need some knowledge to know how to set it up perfect. The brakes needed to be set up and many don't know how. Gears were close and the setup was nice. Great choice of components. Get it setup right and you will love it. Missing pedals was no big deal.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

I've never dealt with bikesdirect before, but this seems like pretty good customer service:

"Hi - Joe here with Bikesdirect. Thank you so much for ordering a Motobecane Lurch Fat bike. Customers are loving the Lurch and are sharing photos and comments in the Lurch Lounge on MTBR.com http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/lurch-lounge-928474-5.html Unbeknownst to us there was a mistake with the factory specs and pedals are not included. We have updated the site and apologize for that. Many folks already have pedals they prefer and usually toss out the entry level pedals. If you need pedals we can refund you $20 or ship you a pair of entry level platform pedals. If you want one of these options please reply to this email and clearly state which option you prefer. We will take care of you right away. ***If you have already been helped with this matter, please disregard this message*** Cheers and Happy Riding, Joe "


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## rschreck (Aug 11, 2014)

draco_m said:


> Is the Lurch the least expensive fatbike with steel (chromoly) frame?


Nope. That title belongs to Walmart fat bikes.


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## Xherion (Sep 5, 2014)

I just got my Lurch today. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the rotor bolts for the front tire. Am I missing something? I sent an email to BD, but I'd figure I'd ask here as well.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Blue Lurch has arrived. 38.4 lbs as you see it. One pinched derailleur housing, everything else looks ge eat.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

Xherion said:


> I just got my Lurch today. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the rotor bolts for the front tire. Am I missing something? I sent an email to BD, but I'd figure I'd ask here as well.


The 6 screws are in a small bag all by themselves. I had trouble finding them myself.


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## Xherion (Sep 5, 2014)

jimmac23 said:


> The 6 screws are in a small bag all by themselves. I had trouble finding them myself.


Thank you. I quadruple checked everything and can't find it. The box had a fist sized hole in it...I wonder if it fell out.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Rotor bolts are M5x10mm. You can likely find hex head version at the local hardware store. Use some blue locktite on them.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Late to the party, but here are a couple of shots of mine.

I changed the stem and handlebars, then in the second shot the tires and rim tape.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

rex615 said:


> View attachment 921286
> View attachment 921287
> 
> 
> ...


How do you like the orange? Is it me, or is this color slept on?


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## Mk3Rider (Dec 7, 2008)

Nice looking bikes guys!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> How do you like the orange? Is it me, or is this color slept on?


I don't know what you mean by "slept on", could you please explain.

I like it, but for some reason I expected it to be darker and more like the old Bridgestone orange and not metallic.








Still very happy though.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Yeah I got the same email from them Baker. I guess they don't know I had to cancel my order .


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Slept on. LOL. I like the Orange


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

New to the party too, here! Just got my Lurch today, in yellow. I'm in Ottawa, Canada, so had it shipped to a UPS Store over the border and drove down to pick it up after work, after it was delivered this morning. 

First impressions? Super-impressed!! The bike came well-packaged and well set-up from the factory. Shifters/derailleurs and rear brake were well adjusted. Threw the thing together and took it for a spin around the neighbourhood... Rides way better than any of the fatbikes I've test-ridden. Probably has a lot to do with the wheel/tire set-up, but I really like the way this bike handles. Oh, and speaking of handles, am I the only one who got a bike with the handlebars installed upside-down? I'll take care of that tomorrow... 

Overall, I feel like this bike is amazing value and blows away anything else in its category. This is my first purchase from Bikes Direct and I'm sure it won't be my last. I'm already thinking that I could easily get my money back on the Lurch, selling it locally, if I decide I want to move to something different like a Night Train. Or a Ti-Fatty when BD puts one out. 

Admittedly, there were a couple of small issues. Mine was shipped without pedals, like everyone else's.. The paint/powder coat was a little chipped-up on the dropouts, too. Not the end of the world, but something I hope BD will take into consideration. 

Oh, and I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the Boris X5 I got for the girlfriend came with an extra set of yellow rim strips to match my yellow Lurch! I'll be poaching those, for sure!!

In the meantime, I'm looking forward to getting everything set up properly and taking it for a better ride tomorrow. Maybe somewhere that I'm not disrupting basketball games when I ride across the playground!


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## gibsonra (Jun 6, 2004)

I almost missed them also. They are wrapped in plastic inside the rotor plastic. Easy to miss


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I got the front tire setup tubeless today. Used this method: How to set up a fat bike tubeless | Dirt Rag

Had a little bit of an issue with the small crack where the rim butts against itself. Used some superglue and small strips of gorilla tape and it seemed to seal up. Will post back with pictures when I do the rear tire. Gotta get some more weatherstripping first.

Before you guys ask, the reasons I go tubeless are:

1) Much less possibility of flats. 
2) Noticeable weight loss. Those fat tubes are like Coast Guard lifesaving devices.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

MaximumX said:


> New to the party too, here! Just got my Lurch today, in yellow. I'm in Ottawa, Canada, so had it shipped to a UPS Store over the border and drove down to pick it up after work, after it was delivered this morning.
> 
> First impressions? Super-impressed!! The bike came well-packaged and well set-up from the factory. Shifters/derailleurs and rear brake were well adjusted. Threw the thing together and took it for a spin around the neighbourhood... Rides way better than any of the fatbikes I've test-ridden. Probably has a lot to do with the wheel/tire set-up, but I really like the way this bike handles. Oh, and speaking of handles, am I the only one who got a bike with the handlebars installed upside-down? I'll take care of that tomorrow...
> 
> ...


Did you get taxed coming back over the border?


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Anyone have issues with the q/r on the rear? I did it up tight and it slipped and bit under heavy braking. I did it up even tighter so that it was extremely hard to lock by hand but it seems stable now. Does anyone know of bolt on skewers for 190mm? I have a nice set of bolt on for my xc bike but I think this fat bike could really benefit from some.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

neons97 said:


> Did you get taxed coming back over the border?


I had some fortunate timing... I'd been in the US for a week at the end of August, so ordered the bikes then. When I came back, I used my personal exemption and the "goods following" clause to cover most of the value of the bikes, even though I was importing them a week later. If you're thinking of pulling the trigger, maybe think about a weekend stay in the US. That gives you an $800 allowance for goods to bring back.

From CBSA:
48 hours or more	Up to CAN$800 - May include alcohol and tobacco products, within the prescribed limits set by provincial or territorial authorities. Goods must be in your possession at time of entry to Canada. Travellers absent for periods of 48 hours or more will have the applicable exemption level credited against the total value of goods.
7 days or more	Up to CAN$800 - May include alcohol and tobacco products, within the prescribed limits set by provincial or territorial authorities. For the seven-day exemption, goods may be in your possession at time of entry to Canada but are also permitted to follow entry to Canada (such as via courier, mail or delivery agency), except alcohol and tobacco products, which must be in your possession. All the goods will qualify for duty- and tax-free entry if they are declared at the initial return to Canada.


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## siv (Aug 13, 2006)

Here's a eBay link to Snowshoe 4.7 120 TPI tired I though you guys might appreciate. I wish they came on the Night Train I ordered.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291234093126


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## pxpaulx (Aug 5, 2014)

siv said:


> Here's a eBay link to Snowshoe 4.7 120 TPI tired I though you guys might appreciate. I wish they came on the Night Train I ordered.
> http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291234093126


These are the tires that come on the lurch.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

froggy2288 said:


> Anyone have issues with the q/r on the rear? I did it up tight and it slipped and bit under heavy braking. I did it up even tighter so that it was extremely hard to lock by hand but it seems stable now.


Mine did as well, when I was bedding in the brakes. I tightened down the rear QR tighter than I am comfortable tightening those fancy boutique QRs.

Seem to have solved the issue for now.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

rschreck said:


> Nope. That title belongs to Walmart fat bikes.


 Technically it doesn't. The Walmart bikes are High Tensile steel , not chromoly.



pxpaulx said:


> These are the tires that come on the lurch.


The Lurch comes with 4.5 72TPI Snowshoes, those are the 4.7 120TPI Snowshoes with the Silica compound rubber, which is supposed to perform better when it is really cold.


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## pxpaulx (Aug 5, 2014)

rex615 said:


> Technically it doesn't. The Walmart bikes are High Tensile steel , not chromoly.
> 
> The Lurch comes with 4.5 72TPI Snowshoes, those are the 4.7 120TPI Snowshoes with the Silica compound rubber, which is supposed to perform better when it is really cold.


My mistake! Still the same tire size wise, better off upgrading to the xl which is also 120tpi and only 16 bucks more for the pair. Could also get the bulldozers for ten dollars less with 5% off New customer code.


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Saw my first lurch last night!








Very impressed with how it road.








As you would expect, the tires were significantly bigger than my 4.0's.








My biggest surprise was now much lower the front of the frame was than my 18" bullseye monster. I didn't ask what size it was, but the owner was a big guy. 
EDIT - looking closer at my picture, I would say its an 18" like mine.














I think they like each other


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

froggy2288 said:


> Anyone have issues with the q/r on the rear? I did it up tight and it slipped and bit under heavy braking. I did it up even tighter so that it was extremely hard to lock by hand but it seems stable now. Does anyone know of bolt on skewers for 190mm? I have a nice set of bolt on for my xc bike but I think this fat bike could really benefit from some.


This was one of my concerns before ordering. A quality rear 190 QR can be found, but a 150 QR front is non existent, that I can see. These pieces are hardened so cutting new threads on a 170 would be difficult if impossible. Anyone ever done this?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Would a surly tuggnut solve the rear slippage issue? My rear is moving in on the drive side whenever I stand and pedal.


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## siv (Aug 13, 2006)

I'm still confused about tire size. Why would Vee Rubber make a Snowshoe in 4.5 and 4.7?


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## pxpaulx (Aug 5, 2014)

siv said:


> I'm still confused about tire size. Why would Vee Rubber make a Snowshoe in 4.5 and 4.7?


The 4.5 was really more like a 4. Think of the 4.7 as a correction on their part. Other discussions here have noted that the new h-billie tire is actually just a renamed original snowshoe. Most likely the 4.5 will be phased out once stock is gone.

There is a pretty good article over at fat-bike.com about the new snowshoe and bulldozer tires from awhile back for more info as well.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

sven98 said:


> Would a surly tuggnut solve the rear slippage issue? My rear is moving in on the drive side whenever I stand and pedal.


How can the wheel move forward when there is a stop? 
I mentioned this early, slam the rear wheel all the way forward and bypass the stops.

Pedaling


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## AdventureRider (Jul 17, 2014)

Anybody weighed these lurches. Is it 30 pounds like it says on the ups shipping info?


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

AdventureRider said:


> Anybody weighed these lurches. Is it 30 pounds like it says on the ups shipping info?


My small is 38.4 pounds with a set of Crank Brothers Candy 3 pedals. So, that would make it about 37.7 as shipped.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

rjedoaks said:


> How can the wheel move forward when there is a stop?
> I mentioned this early, slam the rear wheel all the way forward and bypass the stops.


Yeah I guess these screws bend super easy. I cut the allen head off and threaded the screw out backwards. No damage to dropout threads. Slammed the wheel forward..seems to work fine.


----------



## Xherion (Sep 5, 2014)

Thanks to everyone who helped with my missing rotor bolts. I was able to get some at at hardware store. This is my first flatbar bike, much less a fatty, so adjusting to this might take a while. Finished assembling it last night and here it is this morning.

Overall I'm happy. Small scuffs on the chain stays, but nothing big. Rotors need some adjustment but that's expected. This thing is heavy though! I'm used to a 20 lb road bike, so it's a big adjustment.


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## AdventureRider (Jul 17, 2014)

Xherion said:


> View attachment 921392
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped with my missing rotor bolts. I was able to get some at at hardware store. This is my first flatbar bike, much less a fatty, so adjusting to this might take a while. Finished assembling it last night and here it is this morning.
> ...


Road bike can't go everywhere...the lurch can. The lurch is a great looking bike. Use and abuse it...then in a couple years, powder coat it flat black!


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## doctor_spaceman (Sep 6, 2014)

long time lurker here on MTBR. 

I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a lurch, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some quick sizing advice before I seal the deal? 

I'm about 6 foot so my first instinct is to buy a large frame, but I see a lot of people who seem to ride a much smaller frame with the seatpost riding real high. as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the stand over height is a little lower than what is listed on the site, I was thinking about going for a medium frame and staying on the smaller side of the size range. I feel very comfortable on my Dirt jumper and would like to keep some of the same kind of maneuverability with a Lurch. Is my logic sound here? should I go with a Medium or size down even to a small frame? thoughts?


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## tonyvt (Mar 26, 2010)

sven98 said:


> Yeah I guess these screws bend super easy. I cut the allen head off and threaded the screw out backwards. No damage to dropout threads. Slammed the wheel forward..seems to work fine.


Have you had the chance to take your Lurch out for a ride since you slammed the wheel forward?


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

doctor_spaceman said:


> long time lurker here on MTBR.
> 
> I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a lurch, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some quick sizing advice before I seal the deal?
> 
> I'm about 6 foot so my first instinct is to buy a large frame, but I see a lot of people who seem to ride a much smaller frame with the seatpost riding real high. as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the stand over height is a little lower than what is listed on the site, I was thinking about going for a medium frame and staying on the smaller side of the size range. I feel very comfortable on my Dirt jumper and would like to keep some of the same kind of maneuverability with a Lurch. Is my logic sound here? should I go with a Medium or size down even to a small frame? thoughts?


I'm not an expert on these things, but I'm 5'-10" and I went with a large. The stand over is excellent, and it leaves me with what I perceive to be, at least a good 2" of room from the top tube. I don't feel stretched out or cramped.


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## dakar2001 (Apr 14, 2008)

5'9 and went with an 18"….perfect for me.


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

after a year of reading and researching fatties I finally picked up my lurch this morning, just got back from first ride; felt very much on display on a 4 inch tire metallic purple bike on city streets, lots of stares and smiles, don't like to attract attention to myself in general so was questioning whether this bike and I would be a good mix...just about then I turned off city streets and onto park trails...

my oh my, think that was the most fun I've had standing up ever, I've ridden and run through this park for last 5 years yet it felt brand new this time, can literally point this damn bike anywhere, had a few crashes and came out soaked but smiling like a fool! I didn't think I could convert so quick but it's unlike any biking I've ever done as a road/commuter/hybrid guy only
so far....fun fun fun!

as far a lurch specifics go, had same issue with rear qr, slipped on me a couple times while braking, had to tighten it down to point of uncomfortableness, hopefully that will help, seat also kept slipping, have it tightened harder than any qr seat I've ever owned....all in all extremely impressed and happy and look fwd to exploring new worlds on it again soon...definitely comes into it's own off pavement!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Successfully converted both tires on my Lurch to tubeless. I was going to take pictures, but there's really nothing to it. Used Gorilla tape and Stan's. Put some weatherstripping on either side of the rim to stop burps at low pressure, then covered them with more tape. Sealed up first try with the air compressor.


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## doctor_spaceman (Sep 6, 2014)

is there a website or a tutorial you used for reference? I would love to do this to mine once it arrives


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

sven98 said:


> Yeah I guess these screws bend super easy. I cut the allen head off and threaded the screw out backwards. No damage to dropout threads. Slammed the wheel forward..seems to work fine.


That should be fine unless running larger meats then a high quality bolt reversed w/ a nut would work. Bad design, the bolt doesn't hit the axle squarely.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

doctor_spaceman said:


> long time lurker here on MTBR.
> 
> I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a lurch, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some quick sizing advice before I seal the deal?
> 
> I'm about 6 foot so my first instinct is to buy a large frame, but I see a lot of people who seem to ride a much smaller frame with the seatpost riding real high. as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the stand over height is a little lower than what is listed on the site, I was thinking about going for a medium frame and staying on the smaller side of the size range. I feel very comfortable on my Dirt jumper and would like to keep some of the same kind of maneuverability with a Lurch. Is my logic sound here? should I go with a Medium or size down even to a small frame? thoughts?


I think you'll be unhappy on an 18" Medium Lurch. I'm 5'10" and got the 18". It works, but if I didn't already have a setback post, I'd be crowded. I've rode this bike at the pump track, in the skate park (crazy traction on the concrete walls - sooooo much fun) and rode the bejesus out of it today on my usual singletrack. Crazy ass fun, but I could honestly fit on a large. All of those super extended seat posts kind of freak me out - there's frame damage coming in the future for those setups.

Seat post slippage - mine was doing it too. The inside of the seat tube had a fair amount of grease on it, and regardless of how hard I clamped it down, 5 minutes later my post had dropped a few inches. I took some MEK on a rag and swabbed down the inside of the seat tube and the post, BUT, MEK eats paint, so keep it away from your paint job or your seatpost if its powder coated or painted (Thompson's are anodized - OK with MEK). No more slippage. QR skewers should be tightened down as much as humanly possible without using tools, to the point that you almost bruise your palm. Lightly grease the cam surface of the QR lever, and the ft/lbs of torque you can apply increases greatly. Haven't had a rear wheel shift yet.


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## doctor_spaceman (Sep 6, 2014)

this is exactly what I needed to hear!! unfortunately they are currently sold out of all the 18" frames... I would have totally settled for any color, but alas I will have to wait.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

*First (and second) ride impressions*

OK, I got the Lurch out for a couple rides.

The first ride was a 9 mile round trip into Keystone for an Oktoberfest Festival / Concert with the family. Lots of fun and lots of comments and sideways glances. The bike was fine on the streets and paved paths, albeit a little loud.

Lurch at Soda Creek by bbaker22, on Flickr

The second ride was a 10 mile mix, mostly singletrack. Messed around quite a bit with air pressure. Bringing it down low where the bumps disappear introduces lots of self-steer. Too high and it feels a bit sketchy. It'll take a bit to find the middle ground.

Lurch on Soda Creek by bbaker22, on Flickr

I had a heck of a time getting both disc brakes dialed in. Both have to be slammed completely to the outside to reduce (but not eliminate) brake rub. I suspect things will get better with brake wear, but I'm not impressed with those tolerances. I may need to have the mounting points faced to eliminate rub. And, I have had many many bikes with BB7's, so I'm not totally clueless.

I didn't even think about bike size, which means it must be the right size for me, 5'9" and small.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Okay, so here's my Mello Yello. Swapped out the bars since and set up the front brake. Got everything tweaked and torqued. I'll be wanting to re-route some of the cables at some point, but having too much fun to worry about that for now.


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## hedz0r (Jul 17, 2013)

baker said:


> OK, I got the Lurch out for a couple rides.
> 
> The first ride was a 9 mile round trip into Keystone for an Oktoberfest Festival / Concert with the family. Lots of fun and lots of comments and sideways glances. The bike was fine on the streets and paved paths, albeit a little loud.
> 
> ...


Did you center the caliper? Pull the brake cable tight and retighten the clamp on the caliper? Mine feel quite good, almost hydro feeling.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

hedz0r said:


> Did you center the caliper? Pull the brake cable tight and retighten the clamp on the caliper? Mine feel quite good, almost hydro feeling.


I've done everything I can think of to try to get it aligned. Cable tension has been checked. Tightening the cable would actually exacerbate the issue. It won't kill me to ride with slight rubbing, but it might drive me crazy  I'l check again after some more miles and see if I have better luck.


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## live2ride612 (Sep 7, 2014)

super psyched to have it built and a little bling'd!!


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I'll buy one when they put they Bluto on it.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> I'll buy one when they put they Bluto on it.


When the bike was first advertised, it was billed as being Bluto ready. Later they rescinded because of possible clearance issues between the down tube and the lockout mechanism.

Thus it seems unlikely they will offer this frame with a Bluto.


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Tubeless method works for me as well. Dropped ~1.3 lbs off bike using stans, weatherstripping, and gorilla tape. The lighter wheels make a massive difference in feel and acceleration of the bike.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I'm getting a fair amount of burping with the tubeless at medium to low pressure. Hopefully, it will settle down a bit after a few rides.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

MaximumX said:


> Okay, so here's my Mello Yello. Swapped out the bars since and set up the front brake. Got everything tweaked and torqued. I'll be wanting to re-route some of the cables at some point, but having too much fun to worry about that for now.
> 
> View attachment 921439


That yellow is awesome! But mellow yellow? How about SCREAMING YELLOW ZONKER!?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

froggy2288 said:


> Tubeless method works for me as well. Dropped ~1.3 lbs off bike using stans, weatherstripping, and gorilla tape. The lighter wheels make a massive difference in feel and acceleration of the bike.


had you just put lighter tubes in you woulda saved about the same weight and much less time/cost/effort. and less mess if you have to deal with a sidewall tear or tire swap.

rog


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Great looking lurches out there, lurcheads. Keep those pics comin'. :band:

Still waiting for someone to post pics of the gray . . .



live2ride612 said:


> super psyched to have it built and a little bling'd!!


live2ride612, that's bada$$. :thumbsup: That's my plan as well, blue on black. It was actually supposed to be blue on gray, :madman: but it will look just as good on the black that BD sub'd in. In addition to the grips, housing and rim strips, I've also got some blue candy's and a coupla really loud plastic bottle cages waiting. Thinking about pulling the trigger on this saddle, as well:


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## rajcoont (Jun 19, 2014)

after a bit of tweaking and refining this eve, I have come to the conclusion my rear disc mount is a bit off, tolerances are problematic on my end as well, and what I thought was pad rub even with pads wide open turns out to be something else









when bolts to attach to frame are tightened the whole bb7 pulls hard to right and makes outer pad hit rotor no matter what, but even worse pulls top washers directly on to rotor as well....gonna have to see of I can bed it back a bit, tried tonight without much luck...










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

start filing. carefully

8" flat file works well.

rog


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## ElectronJunk (May 2, 2008)

rajcoont said:


> after a bit of tweaking and refining this eve, I have come to the conclusion my rear disc mount is a bit off, tolerances are problematic on my end as well, and what I thought was pad rub even with pads wide open turns out to be something else
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had the same issue and was ready to take a file to the cups that were rubbing but decided to put a 1mm wide shim on the brake side of the axle instead and re centered the brake caliper and that worked just fine. I have extra shims laying around from RC car projects.


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## ElectronJunk (May 2, 2008)

doctor_spaceman said:


> long time lurker here on MTBR.
> 
> I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a lurch, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some quick sizing advice before I seal the deal?
> 
> I'm about 6 foot so my first instinct is to buy a large frame, but I see a lot of people who seem to ride a much smaller frame with the seatpost riding real high. as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the stand over height is a little lower than what is listed on the site, I was thinking about going for a medium frame and staying on the smaller side of the size range. I feel very comfortable on my Dirt jumper and would like to keep some of the same kind of maneuverability with a Lurch. Is my logic sound here? should I go with a Medium or size down even to a small frame? thoughts?


I am 6' even with a 33" stand over height with no shoes on and the 20" Lurch fits me perfect. I prefer a little lower seat and higher bar compared to cranking the seat way up in the clouds and bending down so far to the bars. I almost bought the 18" because I ride an 18" Motobecane Fantom Elite DS and love it. However I went with the 20" Lurch and have NO regrets at all, plenty of wiggle room when standing flat footed over the top tube. But fit is such a personal thing that no one can tell you what will work for you. Good Luck.


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## rschreck (Aug 11, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> had you just put lighter tubes in you woulda saved about the same weight and much less time/cost/effort. and less mess if you have to deal with a sidewall tear or tire swap.
> 
> rog


Who makes lighter tubes? Running Surly Nate's.


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

Q-Tubes Super Light 2.4"-2.7" or Kenda Superlight 2.4"-2.7" @256g
Schwalbe SV13F @185g


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

rschreck said:


> Who makes lighter tubes? Running Surly Nate's.


qbp q-lite 26 x 2.4-2.75=250 grams each.

rog


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

standover isn't nearly as important as tt length/reach. buying a bike that's too small just so that your boys aren't tickling/straddling the tt is a terrible way to make a bike work. jacking a seat way up and back and/or throwing a longer stem on the bike to try to get a better fit is no good, more often than not.

rog


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> standover isn't nearly as important as tt length/reach. buying a bike that's too small just so that your boys aren't tickling/straddling the tt is a terrible way to make a bike work. jacking a seat way up and back and/or throwing a longer stem on the bike to try to get a better fit is no good, more often than not.
> 
> rog


This. +1


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

I don't really care for the way the Qtubes ride, not very supple and leave a gap in tube/tire interface around the valve stem. Also very prone to pinch flats at lower pressure, at least in my experience - I know some people who love them and never have issues. ymmv.

I set up ghetto tubeless yesterday. I got a little carried away with the foam center/bead lock and had a bear of a time getting the tires on, but damn, those beads are never going to burp. They sealed up without sealant and just soapy water. Added 5 oz stans per wheel, and they haven't lost a lb of pressure since yesterday. I was not going to go ghetto, but I could not get gorilla tape or even tyvek tape to stick to the rim even after cleaning with MEK. Ghetto seemed the only option.


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## ElectronJunk (May 2, 2008)

rex615 said:


> This. +1


This, +2


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

First pictures of a Lurch in the snow!!!









And a Boris X5, for good measure...









Thank you to Bell Arena for supplying the ice scrapings!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

MaximumX said:


> First pictures of a Lurch in the snow!!! And a Boris X5, for good measure...
> 
> Thank you to Bell Arena for supplying the ice scrapings!


Exciting, This is the first (and official) incident of a Lurch in snow. Congrats!

A bit jelly too, I must admit.

cheers


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

Got my 20" Lurch on Friday. Some scratches on the head tube (biggest scratches), some on driveline chain stay. Had a bent spoke in the front wheel from the crank hitting it. Will be emailing the pics to BD.

Just rode the bike around the street briefly. I like it so far. Looking forward to getting a little bit of time on it.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

1st ride


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Im pretty excited to be receiving my Lurch on Wednesday! Looks like a lot of fun! Im 6'4" and got the 22" frame for anyone wondering.


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Cost of tubeless was some tape I had, 7$ of weather stripping and 12$ of Stans. Pretty sure two new tubes would be similar expense. Hopefully the benefit is less likely flats vs ww tubes. I have been running tubeless in all my mountain bikes and have only flatted once in a few years because the Stans had dried up and I did not add new. I do agree that some q-tubes SL would yield a similar weight result but at a lower durability most likely.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

froggy2288 said:


> Cost of tubeless was some tape I had, 7$ of weather stripping and 12$ of Stans. Pretty sure two new tubes would be similar expense. Hopefully the benefit is less likely flats vs ww tubes. I have been running tubeless in all my mountain bikes and have only flatted once in a few years because the Stans had dried up and I did not add new. I do agree that some q-tubes SL would yield a similar weight result but at a lower durability most likely.


Yes, but let's not forget about the time/frustration spent setting up/seating and mess if you do get a flat. Time is money, IMO, and changing a tube if you flat is wicked easy, quick, and clean. And you can patch them to avoid buying more tubes.

rog


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

newmarketrog said:


> Yes, but let's not forget about the time/frustration spent setting up/seating and mess if you do get a flat. Time is money, IMO, and changing a tube if you flat is wicked easy, quick, and clean. And you can patch them to avoid buying more tubes.
> 
> rog


If time is money, I would gladly spend $100 and/or 8 hours of my day if it meant a good tubeless setup. Frustration in the garage is way, way better than frustration with a flat out on the trail as my precious riding time is slipping away. Once you setup tubeless a few times, it becomes pretty easy. It takes me about 15 minutes per tire.


----------



## oops (May 28, 2005)

baker said:


> OK, I got the Lurch out for a couple rides.
> 
> The first ride was a 9 mile round trip into Keystone for an Oktoberfest Festival / Concert with the family. Lots of fun and lots of comments and sideways glances. The bike was fine on the streets and paved paths, albeit a little loud.


*@ Baker*...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

That is a ridiculous amount of time.......

rog


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

newmarketrog said:


> Yes, but let's not forget about the time/frustration spent setting up/seating and mess if you do get a flat. Time is money, IMO, and changing a tube if you flat is wicked easy, quick, and clean. And you can patch them to avoid buying more tubes.
> 
> rog


The method posted by others in the thread took me about 30 minutes from bike with tubes to tubeless. With tubeless if I get a flat I can always pop in a spare tube that I now have 2 of . Might get a little Stans on your hands but that just helps you grip the bars better.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

oops said:


> *@ Baker*...is this pic from the Summit Cove side of Keystone?


Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

baker said:


> Yes, we have a condo (partial ownership) right in Summit Cove. I've only been twice, so I have lots of exploring to do! I'm hoping the paved trails around there will be fun for snow biking in the winter...


looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

*Jimz Fatty pics*

I'm lovin my Lurch!!! It rolls over everythig and gives you confidence. Lots of trees down in the forest, some I could ride over, some i had to blaze a trail through the forrest to get around and the lurch didn't hesitate once. Too much fun!!!

Jim

Two pics showing how super reflective my rim tape is


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Lurch pilot, up the creek.

I am really liking this bike for the mountain trail we have in the Piedmont. 
Climbs very well and really inspires confidence when descending.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

I dig the orange, Rex. 

Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!

rog


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

newmarketrog said:


> Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!
> 
> rog


I'm 5'5" and prefer the seat high since I have two artificial hips. When I stand over the bike, my boys just touch the toptube.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> I dig the orange, Rex.
> 
> Who's 6'2 and bought that tiny black lurch pictured above? That be ALOT of post!!!
> 
> rog


It is amazing that it even the same bike (Small black vs XL orange)

The frame of the Black bike looks to me like one of the modern Observed Trials bikes, my orange frame looks almost like an old school 80's MTB.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.

Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Definitely an issue w / the small frame. The housing looks short from the pics which gives too sharp of an angle


Pedaling


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

Hackinator said:


> Speaking of the small Lurch, after riding this weekend I noticed that the front derailleur cable was wrapped around the drive side of the seat tube and not connected to the cable hanger on the back of it. I cut the cable and wrapped it around the non drive side and down, but this put the derailleur cable on such a severe angle that it interfered with shifting. I then wrapped the cable back around the drive side and used a zip tie (ugly and unclean) to connect it to the cable hanger. Below are photos of what I'm talking about.
> 
> Does anyone have any permanent solutions (aside from welding a new hanger higher up on the seat tube and not directly behind by the tire)? Anyone else experiencing this with their small Lurch? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


I have an XS and moved the cable to the drive side and skipped the cable hanger.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!!  :thumbsup:


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

jimmac23 said:


> 12 miles of singletrack today. LUVIN my Lurch!!!!!!  :thumbsup:
> View attachment 921987


Jim, the bike looks great. :thumbsup: How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

spovegas said:


> Jim, the bike looks great. :thumbsup: How hard was it to get the Moto decal off?


Thanks Spovegas, Actually, I cheated...covered it with a piece of black vinyl. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Also put a piece on the downtube. The metal Moto above the fork is just a sticker and peels right off.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

And the "JIMZ FATTY" is just a sticker I had made at a local sign shop.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Hackinator said:


> Any suggestions would be appreciated.


1x

or grow.

then go 1x

rog


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Trigger pulled on a small black. Almost the same geometry as my Soul Cycles Dillinger. I wanted purple, but, although it appeared in the drop down menu, it showed sold out at checkout.

Can't wait!


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## gresults (Sep 8, 2014)

I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.


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## MIKE157 (Nov 30, 2008)

Oh Boy , I had ordered a med. yellow Lurch on Aug. 3 , about 2 weeks ago emailed BD to say if they have a extra orange in med. to hook me up with that instead Long story short, got a email today saying they goofed up and don't have either bike for me ! But they made me a offer on a Sturgis Bullet that I could not refuse.......Hope all you guys and gals enjoy those great looking Lurch fat bikes . Now I wait again..........

Mike


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

*20" Weight Data Point*

According to my scale, fwiw:


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

All this talk about availability of bikes in certain colors and sizes has me wondering again.

Just how many Lurches were in that container?

It must be interesting to see the thought process behind those decisions, 
How many of each color, how many of each size? 
Do the people who ride small frames prefer certain colors vs those that ride larger frames?
How do they judge which color will be more popular? They did pick the colors to begin with. 

Obviously BD is good at these types of choices since most of us got what we wanted color and size wise, but then they have lots of experience.

I am sure Joe skims this thread now and then, maybe he will chime in with some insight, just for fun.


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

Received my yellow 22" Lurch yesterday. No good pics yet, but wanted to mention a few things. First off, the bike looks great!! The yellow is awesome, although it looks a little light in some areas, like it wasn't coated equally in places. No big deal. I had my rear derailleur cable crushed against the head tube and the cable is pulverized in one spot. I think I saw someone else had that problem too. Also, my handle bars were installed upside down. The shifters and cables were in the right locations, but everything was attached to the bars being upside down. I had to strip everything off, flip the bars, then re install everything. Kind of a pain. The first cable stop for the front derailleur was not connected, and the cable was routed incorrectly through the rear brake line, but since I had to strip everything off the bar, I routed it correctly, but now have to adjust the front derailleur. Lastly, I had a heck of a time trying to remove the rear wheel from the frame. I loosened the QR and attempted to pull the wheel straight out the back. The brake disc was getting stuck on the brake caliper. Do I just adjust the caliper up higher to allow the disc to clear it as I remove the wheel? I loosened the caliper a lot so I could remove the wheel, but don't think I should have too. Anyone else have an issue like that? Well, I am taking the wheels in to my LBS to make sure they are properly tensioned. I will get it back together again tonight and make some adjustments to the brakes and shifters.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

oops said:


> looks familiar...I lived in the Cove for several years...on Sunlight down from the fire station and also at Meadow/Vail Cr. ...you will have fun up there.....also run up to Montezuma and go explore...


We are about 2 blocks from the fire station. Looking forward to the exploring. My wife got up to Montezuma on Sunday, but I ran outta time. Seems like a good place to ride/ski.


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## KodiakBear (Feb 6, 2010)

gresults said:


> I'm thinking of purchasing a Lurch, but must admit I'm not much of a bike person so really confused about the size I should pick.. I'm 5'10" so by the chart on the site it shows a Medium 18",5'9' to 6'0" tall - The question is this a safe bet for sizing or should I be worried.


You and i are the same size, and i can comfortably ride 17 to 20 inch frames, 19 being my favorite. This bike doesn't appear to be lacking in seat tube or top tube length, so i would get an 18. The worst thing you want is a ton of seat post sticking out. I know other bd fatbikes run small, so search through and see what owners say.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Anyone tried a wider fat tire on the Lurch? I was initially optimistic about putting a 4.8 on there, but after looking at the space between the tire and chainstays, I'm not so sure. Definitely a 100mm rim with 4.8 would be close.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

That 's why they come with. 80's. I'd like to see a Bud on the on the stock rim


Pedaling


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## treym563 (Jul 24, 2014)

I've run the Snowshoe XL on my Lurch with the stock rims. Plenty of room. I switched back to the regular Snowshoe for summer riding because the XL's are noticeably harder to spin. I'll be putting the XL's back on for winter.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Stock tires seem to ride and grip pretty well on central PA singletrack. The snowshoes measure out to 4.1' on my calipers. Just for reference, I weight 230 and run 8/10 psi F/R. If I can truly run a bluto on this, I would consider ditching my 29er HT. Bluto would make an already awesome bike even awesomer in my opinion.


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## rover67 (Sep 10, 2014)

Got my bike a little while ago along with the first folks and I think so far it is well worth the money.

I only have two main gripes but it's probably not a big deal given the minimal investment here. 

Small non issue stuff: Mine didn't come with pedals and they credited me $20, it also needed some adjustments on front and rear derailleurs as well as brakes but that's to be expected. Also, the box it shipped in was busted through in a few spots and I am sure there are some scratches on the paint... again for $899 I really don't care, seems like some folks here are pickier. Honestly I think the paint ob is pretty nice. It's going to look like it was shipped without a box in a few weeks anyways after I ride the snot out of it and it has already been crashed hard anyways.

What I think is significant:

1. The wheels are hard to mount up tubeless. There is no real lip for the bead to pop up and over so ghetto tubeless may be the way to go so the bead fits tight. I tried gorilla tape over the stock rim strip and the front tire I got lucky with and it popped on. The rear I can't get. Maybe it's the tire/rim combo and some other tires would work better... not sure. Either way I don't mind, i'll ghetto it or throw in some foam and be done with it.

2. The rear brake caliper mounts seem to be welded a bit too far inboard. In other words, I couldn't get the rear caliper adjusted out away from the rotor enough. It's close as heck, but I still need a tad bit more. Even with the outboard pad of the BB7 caliper adjusted all the way out it still rubs a bit. Anyways, I ended up machining a bit off of the tab to post adapter to give me the clearance I needed to center the caliper up nicely.

Other notes:

I have on a 16" frame about 1/2 to 3/4" tire clearance all around on seat stays, chain stays, and seat stay gusset. The Seat tube gets a bit closer than that where the front derailleur cable mount is but that can be managed with the sliding dropouts. It'll probably be damned close if not hitting with the dropouts moved forward. Still don't care though as I like short chain stays and can manage.

It wheelies/manuals like a boss.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.

Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.

For reference, my Lurch is a 20".


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Good to know


Pedaling


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Great info, thanks guys. 

I'll second the wheelie "like a boss" statement. I was never a huge wheelie fan before, but I love wheelies on this thing. Since it's been raining nonstop since I bought it, I've been doing wheelies up and down the road every day. There's just something awesome about wheelies on a fatbike.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

spovegas said:


> I borrowed a Bud and a Lou from a buddy and threw them on the stock 80mm rims last night, just to see how they fit. There's lots of fork clearance in the front, lots of clearance at both seat and chain stays, as well as plenty of clearance at the chain, when in the lowest gear. The only place where there was interference was with the seat tube, with the adjustment screws removed and the hub slammed in the dropouts, which is where I would prefer to run it. So the adjustment screws will have to be used and the hub run farther back in the dropouts when running 4.8's.
> 
> Based on the amount of clearance I saw, I'm guessing that 4.8's on a 100mm rim would be no problem. From reports on this forum, tire width doesn't really change a great deal between 80 and 100mm rims.
> 
> For reference, my Lurch is a 20".


First off, thanks for doing that and sharing. great info.

Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

rex615 said:


> Also, would, something like the Surly Monkey Nuts help when running a bigger tire to use instead of the stock adjustment screws?


I was looking at those too. The only thing is that they look like they might put the wheel back too far..judging by pics Ive seen. Anyone know what the setback measurement is on these?

EDIT: They are 14mm


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## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

rajcoont said:


> after a bit of tweaking and refining this eve, I have come to the conclusion my rear disc mount is a bit off, tolerances are problematic on my end as well, and what I thought was pad rub even with pads wide open turns out to be something else
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you get this resolved?


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## dirtdawg21892 (Jul 20, 2009)

Saddle Up said:


> Did you get this resolved?


I had this problem on a bike I was putting together from mixed parts. I ended up machining the adapter down on the side that touches the frame. Just a few passes on the mill and it was good to go. Just a fallback if you cant get it figure out.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

rjedoaks said:


> I had a 20 grey on order for a month had second thoughts and canceled. Became jealous when these started shipping and ordered a Grape. The color is great but I just don't know if i could live with it. So I declined the shipment. If anyone is looking for a 20 grape, I'd call and ask about it. Maybe they can hook you up.


Good job. I'm sure they have nothing better to do than cater to you and your indecision.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

My indecision cost me 55 bucks, so I highly doubt they care .
I certainly didn't have to broadcast it, just thought someone might be looking for a 'Grape'


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

I have the black, would have loved to have that purple. Oh well.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


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## Gravelo (Apr 12, 2013)

You woould have a hard time convincing me that the purple one doesn" kick ass!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today, it was loosely packed, but suffered no damage. I went through the entire bike and everything was snug and preadjusted other than the brakes, even the tires were balanced and inflated. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock. Honestly, having been a shop guy, I gotta say, getting a fatty for $900 that is as nice as a bike costing twice that, we'll, it makes me wonder where the rest of the money goes....


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Adjust the pads all.the way out, make sure the cable is slack, make sure the rotor is flush on hub. Have your lbs look at it, honestly a half millimeter of paint will not make a difference


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> My yellow 18" Lurch arrived today. I changed to a red rim strip and red riser bars, otherwise it's stock.


Lets see a pic please. I was torn between the yellow and the orange. The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.

I am running a riser bar with a 40 degree sweep, what bar did you get?


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.









Also, here are a couple of pics showing clearance with the Bud and Lou mounted on the stock rims. Pressure is about 10 psi in both.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Just pulled the trigger on a black 20" lurch. Will be my first fatbike.

Wife was nice enough to let me get one before the price increase.

I've got a set of raceface atlas bars and esi chunky grips for it when it arrives. I'll end up putting a tubeless setup in it as well. Eventually I'd like to get a bluto on it but I'm going to go carbon bars/seatpost and hydro brakes first. I'd like to get this pig down to 32-34lbs eventually. 

Should be a nice change from riding a 24lb xc bike, heh.

Don't know how much winter riding I'll do in all honesty. My wife just had our 2nd kid, and she's had to take this season off of riding due to the pregnancy not being so easy on her. I'll tool around on this thing while she's re-gaining her fitness lost from taking 10 months off.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

rex615 said:


> The red rim strips should look great on the yellow bike.


You could then put on a clown outfit and go as Ronald McDonald.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Is the down tube "motobecane" a decal or painted?


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

big boy phil said:


> I've got a clearance issue with my front brake rotor. The rotor rubs the pad no matter how much I try to adjust it. I need to either remove the paint from inner part of disc brake tab, or machine a few thousandths off of the rotor mount. I'm hesitant to remove the paint, because it might not give me enough clearance afterwards. Any other suggestions? Oh, and the supplied washer on the disc brake rubs the rotor. I will have to look for a smaller diameter washer too.


I had the washer rub issue, also. Grabbed a spare kid for a third hand and managed to get the washer pushed out enough while tightening to eliminate the rub. As mentioned before, I also have the disc brake alignment issue. The joys of dealing with discount mail order bikes...pretty much what I'd expect.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Its Painted :madman:


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## draco_m (Oct 13, 2013)

Okay I thought I wanted a Lurch but am now unsure. Does every Lurch have this brake rotor clearance issue? Because I don't have the skills to do machining work. I pretty much need something that works out of the box with just simple adjustments that I could do myself or have a friend help me with.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

This is not a great picture, natural light is so much better. The Yellow is much warmer than it appears in this picture, the red rim liner sets off nicely with the yellow, red bars look good (Kore 25mm rise). I will add some more red bling over time, red QR post clamp and red pedals.

I am going to build some "skinny" wheels for three season use, 50mm to run some 2.75 Dirt Wizards.

I did try to "slam" the wheel forward and due to the size of the tires, you can only get the wheel so far before the tire hits the frame. With smaller tires I could pull the wheel all the way forward. I didn't measure minimum chainstay with the current whel position, but I did pull it forward another 1/2" or so over the way it was positioned from the factory; I'm about 2/3-3/4 forward.

It's a really nice bike, I have no complaints, other than I really wish I coudl have more than one color  I especially like the look of the grey and of course the purple.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I have had to do this sort of this on unicycle frames, but only in the early days when disc brakes were first being added; the frames were occassionally out of spec.

Facing the caliper mountin surface should not be necessary, these frames are done in a factory under controlled conditions, if it was a problem with one frame, it'd be a problem with many frames. So far we have one frame and one fork reported, that's not a lot.

I did notice that when I moved my wheel all the way forward, I had to readjust the brake. So make sure your pads are adjusted out as far as possible and your cable is slack.

Keep in mind that pads can be sanded down if they are too thick.

My Lurch was ready to ride in less than an hour, all that was needed was mounting the bars, installing the front brake and adjusting both brakes, installing the seat post, and drop the air pressure. It was so easy, they even had the gears preadjusted.

If someone is reading this trhead and worries that they won't be able to build the bike, then just take it to your LBS and pay them $50 to assemble the bike, no biggie, it is still a great deal. Honestly, it'd be a great deal at $1400.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

sven98 said:


> Its Painted :madman:


Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Took the Lurch out for a chunky lunch ride today. Lots of fun. Dropped 1.6 pounds by switching to the q-tubes and putting on a non qr seat post clamp that I had sitting around. BTW, 50% chance of snow showers here over night! 

Here are a few pics:

Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr

Motobecane Lurch on Flying Dog by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> Ugh. Not mad that it's branding, I just don't like the big decal on the downtube, not very clean. One thing I liked more about the Boris. I'm thinking of powder coating the rims white and using a white saddle to match my xc bike. We'll see how it looks in person. What are you guys using for colored rim strips? Thinking I want blue in mine. Might see if one of the guys with a fantom (comes with blue according to BD) would want to swap for the red set I'll get.


I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.

As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.

I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Just got back from my first single track ride. Took it on the local WORS course. Lots of stumps and roots but pretty fast with some sand pits. WHAT A BLAST! It was really fun to ride. I rode pretty hard and it held together. So, thats good! 








Loaded in the truck!








My fix for the rear tire sliding forward and bending the stop bolts. Some stainless 4 x 10mm allen head bolts put in backward. Worked great. If I slammed it forward the tire rubbed on the front derailleur clamp. Looks really clean too. :thumbsup:








The only damage out of the box. Send BD an email to see if they can help, otherwise it works fine.








Just put the red wheel strips in.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.


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## BigVaz (Feb 19, 2010)

msedbaue said:


> Also, ran the pressue at about 9-10 PSI. Still felt a bit bouncy.


What size frame is that and how tall are you?


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

BigVaz said:


> What size frame is that and how tall are you?


Im 6'4 got the 22".


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## BigVaz (Feb 19, 2010)

msedbaue said:


> Im 6'4 got the 22".


The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

BigVaz said:


> The fit feels good? How about your inseam? Any room between the top tube & the family jewels?


The fit feels great, I actually thought it looked small and it feels smaller than my superfly and monocog. Once I rode it for a bit it feels great.

Inseam is 34-36. About an inch or so between my business and the top tube.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

BigVaz said:


> What size frame is that and how tall are you?


For comparison, my Superfly is a 21.5", the monocog is a 21" and the domane is a 60cm.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I have an 18" Lurch, 32" inseam, there is loads of room, I could easily have gotten a 20", but it doesn't feel small.

Just got back from a couple hours mixed single and double track, played with pressures, high pressure handlesbetter but low pressure feels more cushy. The big tires are big, certainly mmore than you need for dirt.


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.

Is this what I need?
RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings

Also, can a few links be taken out of the chain or do I need a new chain? I thought some cheap chains could not be shortened, that is the reason I ask.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.

For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.

I can pretty much say, at this point, that it is what I thought it would be. It's not terrible, but it's not a super amazing value, either. It's a $900 mail order bike. There was some shipping damage and some things that needed to be fixed, and some aesthetic stuff I wanted to do.

Tonight, I finally got it to the point that I was ready to take it for a spin.









The two big takeaways from that short ride are how HEAVY this bike is. I've spent the last three years riding an aluminum 9:Zero:7, which wasn't exactly light, by any means, but when you get into the 30's, it seems like a few pounds make a huge difference. It's not a show stopper, but it's kind of a big deal. I'm not interested in spending very much money making this thing lighter, that would just be throwing good money after bad.

The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.

There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.









And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.

I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.

Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.

BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.

I'll keep hammering through the issues with my lurch, but I think I already know where this experiment is headed, for me, unfortunately.

My two cents only.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Got my Orange Lurch yesterday, very quick and easy assemble. No issues whatsoever, paint is nice and even, brakes work great, shifting easy and smooth. I did have a smashed brake cable housing, easy fix with some electrical tape. Loving the fatty so far...im swapping out the grips and rim strips, pics to come. BTW, if you have the orange and need pedals, the crankbros orange/black mallets on amazon are a perfect match on the color.


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

spovegas said:


> Since receiving my Lurch on Monday, I've been dinking with it after work for the last three nights. This is my first Bikesdirect purchase and it has been pretty much an experiment for me. As inexpensive as these bikes are, I was just really curious about what they were.
> 
> For me, I have some reasonable assembly and fab skills and part of the fun of bikes is goofing around with them and understanding what they are and getting them dialed in. I never expected the Lurch to overwhelm me. My biggest hope was that it didn't underwhelm me.
> 
> ...


**Sorry to copy the whole thing..working on my phone...

Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay. ....could you measure the Q factor. .that crank arm to stay looks really wide..

sent from my GS3 with my thumbs


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Axle length on these are 120mm. There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..there appears to be plenty of clearance between crank and chainstays, at least on my 20" lurch.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

jimmac23 said:


> I have the black Lurch and I "removed" the branding by putting a piece of black vinyl over it. You can't tell unless you look really, really close. Go to a local sign store and they might even have some scraps that they can give you. The metal piece on the headtube is just a sticker which peels right off.
> 
> As for rim strips, you can use duct tape. Or go to a hobby or fabric store and get cloth ribbon.
> 
> I have pictures if you look at my previous posts.


I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like.

spovegas - The pictures of that q-factor are pretty bad. I didn't even think of that, to be honest. I just put a narrow q-factor crank on my XC bike yesterday and took it for a test ride and loved it. Will be interesting to see how I do with the fatbike. I don't think you're being a killjoy or destructive when you're pointing out obvious flaws with a bike you've purchased and obviously spent some time setting up.

The killjoys are the folks that don't have one of these bikes, have never ridden one and then spew hate about it.

Do you think you can remove those spacers or swap the crank for a narrower q-factor by chance?

I experienced my first bikesdirect hate yesterday, when I went to the LBS that's closest to my house. (not the one I'm known at, that one is a 45 min drive for me). I haven't even got the bike yet.

I went to get a chain whip, some stans and shifter cables. I was with my 3 year old son who is obsessed with monster trucks. Obviously he gravitated to the fat bike they had on display which was a charge bike. I was looking at the offset lacing and the narrower hub arrangement (the main reason I ruled the charge out of my to buy list) while he was looking at it.

The employee came over and asked me what I was looking for and asked me if I was thinking of getting one. I told him I had a fatbike on order that should be here next week. When he asked what I bought, and I told him you could see that he tried to keep quiet about it but he had a look on his face of "ew". He got me my bottle of stans and found the chain whip and cable and just dropped the discussion.

He ended up talking to me about my other bike and the kind of riding I do and ended up being pretty cool in the end. Just kind of took me by surprise with the hate.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I've got a spare threaded XTR BB from the crank I just put on my XC bike (pf30). When I get mine I'll take the crank apart, put the XTR BB in and check to see if I can take the spacers out... assuming no one else does it before I get my bike.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

oops said:


> Can we get a couple pics of the drive side crank and clearance to the tire and chain stay


Here ya go. This is with the stock tire. If you go back to post 248, you can see the clearance with a Bud.











sven98 said:


> There is a 10mm spacer on each side of the BB shell. Wonder if these can be removed..


That's my plan for this weekend - see what I can do with the spacers. On the non-drive side, I'm hoping it will be pretty straightforward. Just completely remove or turn down the spacer. On the drive side, it will be more interesting. I want chain clearance for 5" tires, so I'll throw a big fat larry on the rear wheel and measure the clearance and reduce the spacer thickness accordingly. But I'll also have to figure out some way to reduce the thickness of the derailleur spacer. That will probably involve making a new one from a block of aluminum, or something.


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

spovegas said:


> I had the same brake problem as others. I used a file to remove the paint and a few thousandths of metal. You have to be careful to keep the file flat and exercise a little patience. I shot the bare metal with a thin coat of paint before remounting the caliper. Worked out great.
> 
> View attachment 922605


I am sure it is me but this does not look strong. I really hope I am wrong.....good info btw.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

spovegas said:


> The other thing that is way more concerning, though, is the Q-factor of this bike. I haven't measured it yet, but it appears to be GINORMOUS. Throughout the years of fatbike evolution that I have participated in, Q has always been a topic of debate and I've always thought that the whiners were, well, whiners. But I'm here to tell you that there's a limit, and I reached it tonight, because when I got home after my short ride, my knees were killing me.
> 
> There is just no way that you can have the chain to tire clearance that this bike has with the big meats that I tried on last night, or the humoungoloid crank to stay clearance shown in the pic below without kicking the Q to the moon.
> 
> And this has been my observation, generally, during the past three nights of futzing with this bike . . . the Bikesdirect organization is a copycat outfit that doesn't have much to offer in the way of design intent. The design features and intent of my lurch do not inspire me much. Does this mean it's a horrible bike? Certainly not. But a 190/150 bike that will run 5" tires at the expense of an unreasonable Q that will require a bunch more of my time to work through is doesn't end up being all that much of a bargain, in my mind.


As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.

If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
100mm BB
1 DS BB spacer
2 NDS BB spacers
1 11.5mm spindle spacer per side
http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FATBIKE-CRANK-CLEARANCES.pdf

While I certainly agree BD is not a market innovator, the Q-factor on the Lurch is just a product of having a symmetrical 190mm rear end.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl 

Seriously, I have played with Q for a long time, it is a much bigger deal on one wheel, yet I still found that it was not a problem to adjust.

In the case of the Lurch, I do believe that the spacers could be removed from the crank, though it'd require a new BB, but it looks like there is enough space to run 4" tires with no problem, maybe five inch if you offset the crank or space out the chain rings.

I took the maiden voyage yesterday, two hours of cranking, and even my notoriously sensitive hips and knees bothered me not.

In terms of heel strike on the chain stays, there is none, that's me with a sz 13-14 running platforms.

I do think that having so many hub width standards is a problem, but it's just the way it is until things settle out in the industry. It's not like "we" can do anything about it. 

As to what you get for $900 being "about what you should expect", that is pure nonsense. This is a great deal, unless you are a weight weenie and ride a Moots, simply put: This is a lot of bike for the money. Compare this bike to what you get in a hardtail 29er from a company like Redline or Raleigh, same quality, but with BikeDirect you get more for your money.

If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> The Q is no big deal, granted it's wide, but it's not so wide as to cause a problem for someone unless you are knocked knee and skinny like a little girl
> 
> If you are used to riding high end bikes, then why in the world would you "splurge" on a mail order bike, and then come here and complain, really...


This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. For those of us with bad knees, q factor is the difference between pain and riding for 1 mile, or being able to ride for 5 hours. If my seatpost is 10mm too low I get knee pain to the point of limping after I'm done riding.

Fatbikes to some are a novelty and a second bike, hence the "splurge" on something not necessary. When you spend $900 on something you have certain expectations, sure. The point of this discussion is to make the $900 is well spent in our minds and if there is issues, some of us like to solve them.

If the main issue with removing crank spacers is the FD, then I might just throw a narrow wide on it and swap it to 1x10. If I can do a 5" tire in front and a 4" tire in the rear I think it will more than suffice. I really don't want to go to a 1x setup at if all possible, though.

I put 800 miles on a narrow wide setup this year and in that mileage I ran through 2 xt cassettes, 2 11t cogs (on top of the cassettes) and about 4 chains. I'm about 175lbs and don't think I was that hard on the setup. I just swapped back to a 2x10 setup on my xc bike for that reason alone. I don't think I'll put enough miles on the fatbike to shred drivetrain componets like I have with the XC bike.

Haven't recieved a tracking number from BD yet, so I emailed them. Hopefully they're able to give me an ETA.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> I saw that you used vinyl. I work at a high end automotive dealership where we have a pretty extensive graphics department. I have a good relationship with the guys there, so they save me scraps of paint protective film (aka clearbra) to use on my cranks/frames and they also have a vinyl printer. Was thinking of having them do an argyle or flannel pattern for the downtube / top tube and matching the rim strips to it. I need to check to see what vinyl fabric, ribbon or tape I can find with the pattern that I'd like


Hey Utahbikemike, that sounds pretty cool. I really like to personalize my stuff. Try to make my ride one-of-a-kind.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

BD just emailed me. Guess they needed an extra security step since my billing address and my shipping address didn't match. I can appreciate extra security, so a thumbs up to them so far. (even though it might cost an extra day for delivery from my original order date).


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

The wide q factor bothered me the first mile or 2 of the first ride. But after that, i really didnt notice. Maybe its because you're constantly changing your body position (leaning, standing, sitting, etc) while mt bikin'. I almost feel like the wide q factor helps turning..there'a a lot of bike to lean into the turn so the wider stance gives your body more leverage...I dunno thats my theory and thats how it feels to me. Pedal striking happens a lot more on this bike compared to me 29er but thats the only downside...a small one. Still, Im extremely satisfied with my Lurch.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

car_nut said:


> As far as I can tell, the Lurch is following "industry standards" on this one(if such a thing exists in fat bike land). I don't see how you can turn down the spacers, since the spline on the crank spindle is only slightly deeper than what is necessary to work with the existing setup. What's driving this is the chainline necessary to fit a 5" tire with a 2x ring setup.
> 
> If you look at the Race Face setup table for a 190mm rear end, you need the following:
> 100mm BB
> ...


Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. :thumbsup: I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

Just a quick update for my front brake clearance issues. I filed/sanded a bit of the disc tab mounting bracket, and used smaller washers and was able to eliminate the rubbing. Quick ride in the parking lot was fun. Wontr be able to ride till the weekend, but I'm sure I ain't have any further issues. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

wrightcs77 said:


> Ok gang, want to put 1x11 set up on my Lurch I just got. I want to go with a 30t in the front for now. I don't know anything about the measurements.
> 
> Is this what I need?
> RaceFace Narrow-Wide Single Ring 30t x 104 Red, Chainrings
> ...


Anyone?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

spovegas said:


> Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. :thumbsup: I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.


Good luck and thank you for your in depth feedback/pics. I have a Night Train on order and will be dealing with this myself soon enough.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

wrightcs77 said:


> Anyone?


First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T_NW_RING_HARDWARE_COMPATIBILITY_CHART.pdf

After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

"This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "

Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it. All I did was refute what the negative that another poster wrote.

To repeat:

I have hip and knee problems like most people over forty, and the wide Q on the Lurch caused me no discomfort.

I have owned many bikes over the years and the quality of this bike is what one should expect from this level of bike, but the price we are paying is far less that we'd be paying at a bike store.

I have no issue with a scratch, a bent rotor, having to assemble a bike, or having an ugly decal, it's all easily fixable or ignorable.

All in, my POSITIVE attitude toward BikesDirect is that they are offering a decent product, at a decent price, for folks who don't want to blow a ton of cash on a bike that is for many a "seasonal" use.

Also, I don't drink with my bike, I drink with my wife


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

spovegas said:


> Thanks, car_nut, I appreciate this information. :thumbsup: I'll be digging into it more over the weekend.


One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.

Thanks!

http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FATBIKE-CRANK-CLEARANCES.pdf


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

car_nut said:


> One other thought while you're digging into this: could you try to measure the Q-factor as it's noted in the Race Face drawing? If you have the NDS crank arm off and are able to mount it as shown in the drawing, it should be easy to measure. Otherwise, you'll have to get a little more creative and measure to a spoke/rotate cranks/measure other side.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FATBIKE-CRANK-CLEARANCES.pdf


Will do.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Bike arrived today.

Shipping issues - UPS held the bike as a shipping "Exception" because the claimed weight was lower than the actual weight. It arrived on time, but there was a moment of fear that the bike wouldn't arrive in time to ride today on our first snow of the season.

Box arrived mostly intact. There were a few punctures in the cardboard - none in important places. No damage to the frame or other parts.

Assembly went smoothly. The front brake went on perfectly with no fiddling. I had to readjust the rear brake and tighten the bolts that hold the adapter to frame. Spokes could use some tension here and there, but the wheels are true.

I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the no-name cockpit components. They feel better than they looked online. However, the aluminum in the stem is super soft. The lock washer snagged on the stem face while tightening and took some of the metal off with almost no effort.

Tires were hyper-inflated. I didn't have a tire gauge, but I'd estimate they were at at least 35psi in the box. That may be related to the altitude up here (7700' ASL). I let a bunch of air out. Surprise - the Snowshoes are "tubeless ready!" I'll be doing the conversion next week, using this tape and Orange Seal's winter sauce.

Only other things that need immediate attention - I'm going to flip the stem and move the seat back a tiny bit. Reflectors will be removed and spoke guard destroyed. Otherwise, she's ready to ride.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> "This is the kind of attitude that's not helpful in a discussion. "
> 
> Mike, if you don't like my positive attitude, then you don't have to read it.


If that's you being positive I bet you're a lot of fun to be around. You called me a "knock'd knee'd skinny girl" that "splurged on a mail order bike and complained about it."

Unfortunately I do need to read it, to read the thread, unless you're on ignore.

Moving on,

Got my shipping conformation. Will be here Thursday next week. Will be a long week unfortunately.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Put on some Answer Carbon 20/20 Enduro bars and some ESI Chunky grips. Feeling dialed in now and ready for the snow. BTW, I haven't had any issues with the wider q-factor yet, but will keep a lookout for problems (I've already had multiple knee surgeries, but don't feel overly sensitive to q-factor).

P9120002 by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

*Q Factor*

This is my first experience with fatbikes and most of my mileage this season has been on a super narrow Q factor track bike. I did have some trepidation about the wide Q factor of fatbikes in general and specially about the 190mm bikes like the Lurch.

The first few times on my Lurch, it felt like I was ridding a horse, not necessarily uncomfortable, just really weird. That feeling quickly subsided and now I don't even notice it. I have ridden my Lurch exclusively since I got it, so perhaps when I swap back and forth with other bikes I might notice it again.

Fortunately I have had no unusual knee pain. I do have a bit of a trick knee but this bike doesn't exacerbate it. Mashing on a fixed gear bike does sometimes, especially in the hills. I have been told people over 50 should ride fixies, I do anyways.

I am really enjoying this bike.


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## wrightcs77 (Oct 6, 2008)

car_nut said:


> First, I assume you mean 1x10 and not 1x11. I can't find any specs on the Samox crank, but it looks to have a standard 104mm hole pattern. The 104mm BCD cranks aren't designed to go smaller than 32t. The 30t rings add some thickness to them to space it away from the crank arms and allow clearance. They also thread the ring itself instead of using bolts/nuts. You may need to pick up some new hardware depending on what you've got:
> http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/30T_NW_RING_HARDWARE_COMPATIBILITY_CHART.pdf
> 
> After you've got that sorted out, you just remove the small ring/front derailleur/shifter. Pretty much any chain can be shortened. The BD spec sheet says it comes with a KMC, which typically uses a removable master link. If that's the case, unsnap the master link and remove however many links you'd like. If not, you'll need to pick up a master link of your choice and then shorten it.


Thank you very much.

The cranks on the Lurch have a 4.5mm thick spacer. I will be ordering a 30t nw front ring soon.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

900 bux? Killer. It's a bike like any other. Just a better deal than most. Ride n smile

rog


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

spovegas said:


> I know this is a pretty major fanboy thread in nature and I'm not trying to be a killjoy, but it is pretty much true that you get what you pay for in this case, IMHO, and there's this general idea running through the thread that these bikes are of the same quality as Surly and others at a much lower price, and it is just not true. Design details are important, and add up.
> 
> Will a BD bike work for you? Quite possibly. And if that's the case, then great. But I recognize that companies that like Surly and Salsa and Fatback and 9:Zero:7 and the other early pioneers that moved this whole fatbike "thing" to where it is today were manned by folks who are invested in riding and making the experience the best they possibly can for their customers.
> 
> BD, on the other hand, just wants to take current design standards that others have developed and try to deliver them to the masses at a much reduced price. Volume is everything. If you go look at the geo charts, the lurch and pugs geo are DEAD NUTS. I didn't check it for all sizes, but I guaran-damn-tee you it is the case for the 20". The fact that they prioritize customer service and make us all feel warm and happy is an interesting twist to the emotional appeal equation. What is very clear to me, though, is that they don't have any expertise in designing intelligent, innovative bikes.


Very well said.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

*Lurch Q And BB Details*

Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.

This thread has pretty much digressed to the emotional BD-thread norm, but there are a few really good guys who are are currently involved in the discussion:

car_nut (top 'o the list)
Utahbikemike
ultraspontane
Ufdah

and others

You good guys make it wortwhile to go to the following trouble. Happy trails and tailwinds and all that. Hope it's all self-explanatory. If not, hit me up.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

spovegas said:


> Need to issue a nerd alert: The following will appeal to about 0.2% of the readers here, but for the other 5 of you guys, I hope it's helpful.


This is most excellent {pushes taped glasses onto bridge of nose}

So it looks like the Samox cranks have a Q of about 232mm. The Race Face Turbines are 222mm. So, certainly some room for improvement there from a design perspective. It looks like if you went to a 1x 170mm crank you wouldn't completely ruin the chainline, but a 2x is definitely out. There's definitely frame clearance for a 170mm set, but I don't know if foot/heel clearance becomes an issue.

Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
Samox..........................232......................??
Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7

I just came across this article which explains it all far better than I could:
Salsa Cycles

EDIT: This one has some good info and pics on fitting 170 cranks to 190 frames:
Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Big Orange Lurch!!!


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

cavedweller32 said:


> Big Orange Lurch!!!


Beautiful!! If I'd ordered earlier I'd be rocking an orange one too!

For now I'll have to settle for Mello-Yello. ;-)


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

cavedweller32 said:


> Big Orange Lurch!!!


I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance. 

I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline. 

I emailed BD as their site showed a blue 20" (which I wanted in the first place) to change frame colors. I got no email back, except tracking information which showed a black frame. I don't know what I'm going to get at this point so I'm assuming it's going to be black. 

I was going to start shopping for rimstrips and such, but I'm not so sure at this point. 

I'm getting excited, though. I love that black bike with blue accessories.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

cavedweller32 said:


> Big Orange Lurch!!!


The white looks awesome. Reminds me of an orangesicle.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Utahbikemike said:


> That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.


That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.

Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Samox crankset weight?*

Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here. 
My two cents - I like the Q factor. It reminds me of the difference between skiing on old school skinny skis with a narrow stance, and riding new all mountain/powder skis with a wider stance. The narrow Q of my cross bike kills my hips after only 10 miles.


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## Joe from CO (Sep 13, 2014)

Great idea with the backward allen head bolt. I removed the flimsy bolts and jammed the axle all the way forward. I put a Vee8 4.0" tire (for more speed and smoothness until the snow flies) on the rear and it just fits with about 1/4 inch to spare on the der. bracket. I'll use the allen bolt when I put the snowshoe back on. Thx!


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

*16" Team Orange and 18" Grape Soda*

Finally had a chance to take the bikes out yesterday. Mine is the Orange one. So far so good. Will be changing to riser/sweep bars soon because of shoulder issues. FWIW, I have had 4 knee surgeries and had no issues with the wide Q factor (YET).


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

car_nut said:


> That's not going to happen. The Samox is just like a Shimano by the looks of things. The NDS arm slides onto the splined spindle and is locked in place by pinch bolts. There's a little extra depth on the spline to make sure you can snug it up against the bearings. If you remove the spacers you'll have the same Q-factor, the crank will just slide back and forth in the BB by 10mm.
> 
> Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).


I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain. Moving the chainline by 10mm is a lot. Looking at my extra xt crank and raceface 34t ring, you might be able to put it on the crankarm side of the spider to offset it.

Qfactor might not even be an issue for me - I've never ridden the bike, it's speculation at this point. I definitely want to keep it 2x, though.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Utahbikemike said:


> I meant to say that the stock 190mm crank won't work, but it looks like a 170mm may if you go 1x drivetrain.


Gotcha. Yep, that looks to be very doable.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Crank........................Q..............Inner ring chainline
> Samox..........................232......................??
> Race Face 170 1x...........202.....................68.0
> Race Face 190 3X..........222......................70.7
> ...


Dang, I should have thought to measure the chainline. I looked at the crankset and couldn't figure out an accurate way to measure it while it's off the bike without a bunch of goofing around, so I will follow up with that when I put the bike back together.

Thanks for posting the articles. The Salsa one, especially, is just excellent.

So I should mention that the tire that was mounted up when I measured the chain to tire clearance was a Big Fat Larry, and I pumped it up to 15+ psi to get the width reasonably up there. I just now went and measured the width and it's 103.6mm. So if I double the clearance of 12.3 and add it to the BFL width, I come up with 128mm, which is theoretically the widest tire/rim combo you could run without chain rub. For perspective, the surly chart lists the width of a Lou on a 100mm rim at 121mm.

I'm think I'm back to my assertion that BD chose to provide clearance for the widest rim/tire combos out there by going to their component partner and having them jack up the Q. From a mass appeal perspective, chain or frame interference issues are probably way more problematic for them than a few complaints about an extra wide Q or a chain alignment setup that's getting pretty out there. Their mission is to sell a ton of cheap bikes and they have to make compromises and decisions based on rock-bottom economics to be able to do that.

I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.

At any rate, I'm just going to think about it for a while, and maybe look into inexpensive options for swapping in a different crankset. Since the bike is already torn halfway down, I'm gonna framesaver it today and put it back together and then go ride it as-is. I have very little time on it so far and I need to put a few hours in to figure out of the Q is gonna be a show-stopper. As others have said, maybe my body will adjust with some saddle time and it won't be an issue. That would be great.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

car_nut said:


> Even if you could just remove the spacers, that would move the chainline in by 10mm which isn't going to work well. The Lurch is designed with a 190mm rear end which is meant to accept ~5" tires. This results in a large Q factor. No real way around it. If you need a narrower Q, your best bet is to go for one of the 170mm frames (Boris, FB4, Framed Minnesota etc).


This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

watermonkey said:


> Spovegas, thanks for the detailed feedback on the Q factor of the Samox and your detailed writeup. Did you happen to get a weight on the crankset? For reference, your fame clearance measurements are based on a 20" frame? I wonder how much crank-chainstay clearance there is on the other smaller models. There's definitely less tire clearance on the 16" vs 18" frames per posted pics here.


watermonkey, yes, 20" frame. Here ya go . . .


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

*Tube And Tire Weights*

I weighed one of my tires at 1270g and a tube at 590. That's a really reasonable tire weight. Switching to a lighter tube, like a Q-tube, is an easy and inexpensive way to shave over a pound off of your stock lurch.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

20 in large


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

rex615 said:


> I like the white accents. Is that a 20" or 22"?


20in large


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## Negotiator50 (Apr 21, 2012)

baker said:


> Switching to q-tubes saved 650g (1.43lbs) of rotating weight for me. For $18. That is an incredible savings to dollar ratio...


Which q-tubes are you using?


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

spovegas said:


> I stared at the crankset for a while this morning to see if there was any reasonable way to machine it down so I could remove the spacers. I *think* the spindle is shrunk fit into the drive-side arm, and maybe I could take it to work and get it apart and cut 20 mm off the end and put it back together, but that would leave the drive side bearing race in the wrong location. Not sure how big of a deal that would be - the race is very close in diameter to the rest of the spindle.


If you can press the spindle out, and you have the skills/means, I would look at taking the 20mm out of the middle of the spindle, sleeve it and TIG it, and you should be able to keep the races where they belong.

NO clue if it's feasible or will be strong enough.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Negotiator50 said:


> Which q-tubes are you using?


The 26x2.4-2.7 ones from here:

Q-Tubes Super Light 26" Presta Tube > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tubes | Jenson USA


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Kickngas said:


> So, Q-Tubes or tubeless? Most people are going tubeless for weight savings, but I don't think they are losing much more than you did with the Q-Tubes. Plus it is a lot less of a hassle.


I suppose it depends on your intended usage and patience / free time. We don't have lots of goat heads around here and I didn't have the patience / time to get things setup tubeless right now. Hence, my decision to go with lighter tubes rather than mess with tubeless.

I'll probably jump on the tubeless bandwagon once I have more time and other people have really ironed out the process.  I also need some time and miles on the lighter q-tubes to see if they will work for me. In the past, I ran ultralight tubes for endurance races (think Leadville 100) and ended up regretting it.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

baker said:


> The 26x2.4-2.7 ones from here:
> 
> Q-Tubes Super Light 26" Presta Tube > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tubes | Jenson USA


The q superlights are great, but I've found the regular q tubes 26 x 2.4-2.7 at only 25 grams heavier per tube (280 grams) with a .9mm thickness vs .73 thickness of the q-lites, are quite a bit more durable and last much longer without developing weird leaks over time. Plus the regular q tubes are a few bucks cheaper each.

rog


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

If you want lighter tubes and your running 4" tires, try a Maxxis 26 x 2.2-2.4 welterweight, it's 300 gms works great.

As to crank width, a narrowed crank will work fine, the bb is 100mm standard, just get narrower cranks. I'm going to swap cranks because I will never run a 5" tire with a 2 x 10.

The chain line is terrible stock, not sure what they were thinking. Perhaps 5" tires only belong with IG hubs...


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'll go tubeless, but with the amount of sealant I think it'll need I doubt it will be any lighter. It mostly comes down to thorn punctures and pinch flats.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)




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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

spovegas said:


> This is true for the widest tire/rim combos, but I think my measurements show that with a BFL on the 80, I could get away with running a 170mm crank. Even if I went to a slightly wider tire like the Lou, I might have some slight chain rub in the lowest gear, but I think I could live with that. I had light chain rub with certain tires on my 9:Zero:7 and it wasn't really that problematic. It might be reasonable tradeoff to get the Q down, for some folks.


When I was re-installing the crankset, I slid it in without the driveside spacer to see how it would look, and the big chainring hit the chainstay. I didn't think to take a picture, but you can get the idea from this picture . . .









It wasn't a ton of interference, so possibly a smaller chainring would solve the problem. Anyway, for anyone wanting to go this route, something to be aware of.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Qtubes...Two rides, 20 miles. Woke up to a flat tire this morning. Cactus spine, so tubeless would have been advantageous. Or maybe, I should just stay on the trail...



20140914_133014 by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?


I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.

Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.

rog


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Anyone having problems with self steering? I took the lurch out for the first time today on some fast singletrack. Started with 20 psi then gradually went down in pressure. I liked the lower pressure but as the more I dropped psi the more self steering I felt. The worst being 8psi. The faster I went the more difficult time I had turning the bike...like I lost power steering. Is this something to get used to with fat bikes or do I need to keep more psi in the front vs the back. I will keep experimenting bit just wanted some input from others.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> One ounce weighs approximately 30gms, you'll need 6-8 ounces, it'll be as light as a light tube, thorn resistant, bigger chance of rim roll off, probably need more pressure, mixed bag. I run all my wheels tubeless except fat, better bet is to run a tube and sealant. Is there a presta tube with a removable core?


Yeah, I had a couple. Can't remember what brand they were though. I think they were giant branded tubes but I'm not 100%. Another possibility is kenda. I buy a tube, wrap it up and tape it to throw in my saddle bag.

Thinking of trying homebrew sealant due to the amount of money it will cost me in stans


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

*Rear hub issues*

Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:

1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:








2. The reason I took off cassette was to investigate a strange noise from the rear hub. I did a race on Saturday (local race series had a novelty race for fat bikes) and there was a loud persistent noise from the rear hub that got louder when cornering or at higher speeds (either pedaling or coasting makes no difference). My teammate said he could hear it from at least 50ft behind me. It's hard to describe the noise but it is not a noise that rubbing tires or brakes makes (I can see that there is loads of tire clearance and I removed my caliper completely to make sure). This noise first appeared (less loudly) the day before near the end of a practice lap and I thought it was something rubbing so I checked over bike at night and made some minor adjustments. When riding on the roads around my hose Friday night before the race all seemed good and no noise was heard. Come race day the noise starts up about half a mile into the race and gets louder over time. It seems that it takes a bit of warm up for it to get noisy (tested this after race). So Today (Sunday) I pulled it apart and everything looks clean and seals are intact but the main hub bearings have some resistance/gritty-ness to them and the free hub bearings are worse. I can only assume that my bearings are defective and under load they do not spin as freely as they should.

Note: I am a large heavy rider 6'4" ~205 lbs so when I am mashing down on the pedals up hills I probably put some high loads into the hubs but nothing that a non-ww bike should not be able to handle. I have ridden the bike for about 50 miles on trails and maybe 3 miles on roads in town. I have ridden in some mud and puddles but the seals should keep that stuff out and have not not washed bike yet and never wash my bikes with a powerful water jet.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

I was getting a similar noise from the rear wheel on the inaugural ride yesterday. I noticed that the set screw on the non-drive side was loose. Tightened it and banged the wheel on the ground and the noise went away. Maybe your wheel was not centered properly?


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

As far as I can tell using a digital caliper the rear wheel is centered and the set screws are hand tight against the axle. If it were not centered I think the only sounds would result from brake or tire rub which I do not have.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

Ouch. Better not try SS with that hub.


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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

he


Utahbikemike said:


> That's most excellent news. Should be able to drop the spacers and have crank clearance, but I'm wondering about heel clearance.
> 
> I'm going to ride it as-is before tinkering with it to get a good baseline.
> 
> ...


I ordered the "last one" 20" blue on Friday morning when they posted it. I was talking with BD the day before about the Grape one somebody said they were returning. They didn't know anything about it but told me they had one blue left which they added to the site and I ordered.

I got the confirmation email and a UPS shipping label created (though it hasn't left the warehouse yet). And their site still shows a "last one" 20" blue available.

So not sure if there is still one left or not.


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## fdznmstr61 (Sep 15, 2014)

My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

fdznmstr61 said:


> My front wheel hub came with an end cap on the disc brake side through which the fastener bolt extends through but not one on the other side of wheel hub. Is this correct? Should there be a end cap of each side of the front wheel hub?


If you mean this cap, then yes. They can be removed if you are going to run a through axle, but are required if you are going to use a QR needle.


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## fdznmstr61 (Sep 15, 2014)

Yes, that is the cap. Thanks bud.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

newmarketrog said:


> I ride the cape quite often where thorns are everywhere. Q-lite toobz and one scoop of stanz keeps me from getting thorn flats. So not much heavier than tubeless requiring more stanz and maybe lighter compared to split tube/stanz. You don't need removable cores. You unthread the small nut, drop valve stem thingy into tube and hold it between fingers while you squirt stanz in out of a small Elmer's glue type bottle with the cap nozzle thingy sliced so that the opening has to be pressed around the presto valve shaft.
> 
> Removable cores make it easier but only saves maybe 20-30 seconds each tube over the non removable core type.
> 
> rog


This is great stuff, rog. Much appreciated. :thumbsup:


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## frank jalbert (May 31, 2013)

*My Lurch*


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

So after putting approx. 50-60 miles on the Lurch, I am strongly considering going 1 x 10. My only reservation on this is actually riding in the snow! I haven't ridden a fatbike in the snow yet (which is why I got this guy, winter commuter/playing around). Does anyone with some snow riding experience think that you will need the 22t inner ring? If I went 1 x 10 it would be a 32t.

Thanks for the input!


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## drmayer (Apr 19, 2007)

in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sven98 said:


> My dropout wont stay put. Slammed the wheel all the way forward which works great for teh drive side not moving forward. But my problem is when Im doing extreme braking the disc slide slides back.....cant win. Any other suggestions besides tightening the skewer? Ive got it quite tight Im afraid of breaking it.


Removing the heavy powder coat paint from the contact surfaces of the fork ends might help, particularly from the inside. You can apply a thin coat of spray paint on the exposed metal to keep the rust at bay.

Lubricating the cam surface on the QR will help increase the clamping force and lower the amount of force required to close the handle.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

drmayer said:


> in my experience for snow riding you will want something smaller than the 32 up front. I would go a max of 30t up front and get a 42t for the rear. i ran with a 26t front and a 11-36t rear last year and did fine. i'll be running a 28t 11-42 this year.


Thanks for the advice! I was thinking the 32x36 would be enough to spin through anything! I guess Ill probably leave it with the stock setup through the first winter and go from there. I haven't shifted out of the big ring since I got it, that's what got me thinking. It would really clean up the bike without all those pieces for the front derailleur.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I picked up some used Missions 26 x 4, they are not substantially narrower than the Snowshoes, maybe 1/2". but they are a lot shorter, so I was able to slam the wheel all the way forwward with room to spare.

The Lurch is an agile little fatty 

Still contemplating the Bluto, not sure if I want to make it more slack, might have to splurge for an AngleSet so I have choices.

I want 120mm!!

I still need to move the caliper forward


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

froggy2288 said:


> Not sure if anyone else has had these issues but I'll post as notice to everyone:
> 
> 1. The free hub body is getting trashed by the included cassette after only about 50 miles of riding. I am buying a spidered cassette to prevent further damage. It was very hard to remove the cogs today, had to do it one by one and use a flat-tip to assist. Picture:
> View attachment 923453
> ...


Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs

Thanks


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

skywardx said:


> Could you post which spidered cassette you use that works with these hubs
> 
> Thanks


Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super soft one.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

froggy2288 said:


> Was going to pick up a XT 11-36. Ideally I'd get a full spidered one but there are not many options except for or SRAMS crazy expensive cnc ones. If I still have issues after filing down the damage and using the XT then I'll get a steel free hub body to replace this super one.


Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.

Thanks again for the reply


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## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

skywardx said:


> Ya many I have seen cluster the larger 3 cogs but the smaller remaining ones are still independent. I know that some of the wear that you have shown is normal and usually slows down considerably but with only 50 miles makes me wonder if its a bit premature.
> 
> Thanks again for the reply


I would agree that is seems premature. I have used deore cassettes on alum bodies and this level of damage shows up after a few hundred miles. I can only think that since other entry level cassettes are at least pinned together they cause less damage than this one that has every cog separate. The xt has the 5 lower gears on spiders and the top 4 free. Hopefully this will reduce the damage but I think a steel body is in the future.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

**


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

Wrong Forum


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Draper Virginia, New River Trail


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

pspycho said:


> Wrong Forum


You should have left it up, you made some interesting points.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Looks like the price is officially $999!

Right off the bat I would like to mention that I have been having a lot of fun with my Lurch! My personal opinion is that if you want to buy a bike that you ride all the time, through all four seasons, there are some nice options on your "name brand" bikes, and it would probably be beneficial to have the support of your LBS. For someone who just wants to have a fun time, ride in the winter and play around with a bike I think the Lurch is a pretty darn good option. The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts. Honestly, Im not sure this will be as much of a problem in snow due to less traction. Everything else is manageable.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> The biggest thing right now I think would be a nice to have would be thru-axles. Then we wouldn't have to worry about the axle sliding on the dropouts.


I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

rex615 said:


> I am not sure the new style of thru-axles and horizontal fork ends are compatible.
> This pic show how Surly (a big fan of horizontal fork ends) is doing it on the new Ice Cream Truck.
> 
> View attachment 923890


Yeah, Im not sure they are either! It would just be a nice feature. NightTrain anyone?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Looks like Pauls will be offering a cam style 190 QR soon.

Quick Release Skewers from Paul Component Engineering

The dropouts is really the only thing that bothers me about this bike. Everything else seems fine for now.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.

The advantages of a horizontal drop out are the ability to adjust the wheelbase length and to run single speed without a tensioner.

This "problem" is certainly not a significant reason to skip this bike.

Moving my wheel forward and running 4" tires took the Lurch from turtle to rabbit, it is a fun little bike now, so for me it is a true multipurpose bike. If I had to stay with 5" tires and the longer wheelbase, I would have skipped buying a fatty.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> It is not that hard to get the wheel to stay in place, there are a multitude of options, for sure the Lurch drop outs are no different than for any other bike with horizontal dropouts.


What was your solution? Under hard braking my still slides and I have the skewer cranked down pretty hard. I have a few bikes that are SS and I do not have the same problem. My initial thought is the force from the tire on the ground. There is a lot more friction there before sliding than a 2.1" tire!

Im not too worried when it comes to that in the snow, but I certainly have moved the rear axle a few times riding on hard packed single track. Edit* - And I agree, its certainly not a reason to skip this bike!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

> What was your solution?


Tug nuts, spacers, normal stuff.

You need to clean the paint off the inside and outside of the stays; don't go crazy, just clean the area that contacts the QR and hub, then clean the knurling on the friction faces to remove paint already scraped off, do this to both the hub and the QR.

You can also change the QR to a thru axle, though I'm not sure who makes that sort of thing in a 190mm, but there are solid axles as well as modified skewers that can be tightened like a "nut and bolt".

You should be able to make this thing work, I have had no problems and mine is just as it came from the factory.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.

Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sven98 said:


> Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match.


And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

> And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.


yes...it's not the bike, track bikes also have horizontal drop outs.

If the OP really wants something to keep the axle in place, perhaps you could rig some sort of retainer using the set bolts, maybe flipping a tug bolt around?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

rex615 said:


> And yet Surly has horizontal fork ends on all their fatbikes.


They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Anyone use some winter specific shoes? Any recommendations?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sven98 said:


> They are moving to modular dropouts on most of their MTB/Fatbikes now. You can still get them as horizontal (SS), thru or QR. Pretty cool stuff.


True, and i like the idea of having choices on the same bike. 
For as much as I like horizontal fork ends (I have several single speeds and IGHs) they do make removing the rear wheel a bit more challenging.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Just ordered up a pair of Bulldozers for winter. This is gonna be good...


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

I'm 280 and have been standing and mashing on mine without problem...same with braking. So far my dropouts have not been a problem. I did take the advice of putting some lube on the qr cam so I could get a little more bite.



sven98 said:


> Sliding dropouts on a fat bike with ridiculous amounts of traction and a rider who mashes and weights over 230 lbs probably arent the best match. Thru axle is not an option on this frame. I will try the paint scrape and see. Tugnuts are just for preventing moving forward not backwards with braking.
> 
> Maybe carbon friction paste might work too, I read elsewhere on mtbr.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Good to hear SeaHag. I did what everyone said and removed the paint from both sides of both dropouts where the skewer clamps down. I also greased the cam on the skewer...way easier to clamp down now. Ill give it a whirl this weekend.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

*Lurch Bluto has arrived!*

Well, not exactly arrived (PrePay Ships Jan15th to30th) but looks sweet and only $300 more than now $999 reg Lurch!

Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

I wonder if that is the same frame as is on the rigid Lurch or if it is a different frame.

There was the issue with the lockout clearing the downtube. Maybe they resolved it by using a spacer on the fork.

Either way it looks really good!


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Ufdah said:


> They bent the down tube as seen on the CAD diagram of the product page for clearance.











I saw that drawing, but the bike in the pic sure looks like it has a straight downtube.









Confused rex is confused.


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

I'm sure they don't actually have the frames made yet, just spec'd out. They probably just photoshopped a fork on the original lurch pics for a sales diagram...


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Ufdah said:


> Yup, just checked and the new picture is a composite of the original picture of the lurch with the front fork of the "bullet" models.


The lies, until when the lies.

well Photoshop anyways.

That means the current Lurch is not retrofittable.

Should be called the LurchII if it is a different frame.


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80° you might bump the fork and down tube.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Ufdah said:


> I don't think it would take much to make it fit though. Either a ball peen hammer to the down tube, an angleset headset, putting a small spacer below the crown race of the fork or an external bottom headset bearing... But your right, as it comes from the factory if you tried to turn over 80° you might bump the fork and down tube.


 You are right, it shouldn't be too difficult. Strangely enough I don't really want a suspension fork, i just like to have the option.

Well a Lefty would be cool.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Get the medium*



Cody01 said:


> So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?


I'm 5'10" and the medium is almost too small. The small will be like a BMX bike.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Cody01 said:


> So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?


I am 5'9" and 30" inseam. I went with a small and it fits pretty well, if not slightly cramped, but After riding my friends Medium, I probably could have gone with that and been Ok. Torso and arms are other variables to consider, but adjustments can be made with bars, stem and seat position/height. I suggest the Medium for you.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I'm six foot, 32" inseam and an 18" fits well for reach, though the standover is enough that I'm sure a 20" would fit fine. If you like a smaller fit, go small. The bikes come with super long seat posts!

I'm running a 45mm stem, 760mm bars, with the seat set back some, it's a quick handler for sure.

And I got a Bluto on the way  pics and fit fixed to follow...


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

zakfoyer said:


> Has anyone had issues with the spacing between the rear drop outs? My bike arrived in a damaged box, with some paint chips on it, and bikesdirect quickly credited my account for the paint chips. During set up I noticed the rear quick release was on very tight - and was hard to remove- so I didn't mess with it. During the first ride - it popped open and the wheel slipped out - when I tried to put it back on- I have to force the dropouts together by leaning the bike on the ground to get the quick release skewer to fit (even then - it was super tight - and I didn't have enough for the spring, or more then one or two turns on the thread). I took it to the LBS who said the frame is more then an inch out of skew - which seems like a pretty extreme issue to be caused by shipping. They mentioned a frame builder could work on it - but I don't want to hire a frame builder to fix a new bike. Waiting for a response from bikes direct (I just emailed them).


How much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"

A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.

Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

I just picked it up from LBS - it's more then the rear drop outs that are out of whack. They are saying the whole back of the bike is more then an inch off. I've attached some photos that show how far the dropout's are in relation to the length of the QR skewer. If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring. I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.

View attachment 924383
View attachment 924384




rex615 said:


> Howr much larger is the space between the forks ends than the hub width? It is not an inch, or is it? I am trying to understand the difference between the fork ends being too far apart and the LBS saying the frame is "out of skew"
> 
> A steel frame can be cold set to bring it back into shape, but it is not ideal and certainly should't need to be do to a new frame.
> 
> Please keep up posted on the development and resolution of your problem.


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

zakfoyer said:


> I've attached some photos


I can't see the pics. Can you check on your end?



zakfoyer said:


> If a huge amount of pressure is applied - it is possible to get the QR threaded - but not fully, and with no room for the spring.


One would have to believe that if it was that far off at the factory assembly they would have noticed and fixed it on the spot. It isnt a difficult fix if you are a framebuilder. Delicate and precise, yes.



zakfoyer said:


> I'd really not have to do frame work on a new bike - but lets see what Bikesdirect says - all the past customer service reviews are good - so hoping they will swap this one out as well.


Let us know, from the reports (and my own personal experience) so far they have been pretty good about resolving issues.

Again keep us posted and best of luck.


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

Thanks Rex - Here is a link to the photo - photo 1.JPG : Free Image Host.


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

My response from BD below (only a few hours after I emailed!). Hopefully I'm not hit with the shipping charges and can buy a replacement Lurch at the old price.

---
Hello,
I have contacted my office and you should receive return instructions shortly.
Best regards,
Larry @ Bikes Direct


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

zakfoyer said:


> Here is a slightly better photo- it' shows the spacing as 8.25" (210mm) - It should be 190mm.
> 
> View attachment 924385


BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!

Okay, that was insensitive... I do hope you get a replacement at the same cost.


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## brassos (Aug 10, 2014)

here is the lockout headset if you all upgrade to bluto. May help.
BLOCKLOCK - ACROS


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

MaximumX said:


> BD leading the charge to the new standard of 210MM spacing to clear 6" tires!!!


Need a motor for that.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

"Upgraded" photo of the bent down tube on the Lurch II. Or what ever it will be called.
Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

The Lurch FS looks pretty sweet! :thumbsup:


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kinda crazy how many folks purchase or consider purchasing the wrong size bike........thinking that it's the correct size........

rog


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Went for it tonight. Rides great!:thumbsup:


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Went for it tonight. Rides great!:thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 924567


Any issues with the Race Face 1x setup? Any dropped chains?


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

skywardx said:


> Any issues with the Race Face 1x setup? Any dropped chains?


Non yet - Its been working great. It is a Narrow Wide ring.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Non yet - Its been working great. It is a Narrow Wide ring.


Cool...thanks...Going to set a Night-Train the same way. Hows the gearing feel overall with a 30t? or is that a 32t?


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

skywardx said:


> Cool...thanks...Going to set a Night-Train the same way. Hows the gearing feel overall with a 30t? or is that a 32t?


Its a 32t. I have a few friends running similar gearing on their pugs through the winter, so I thinking it will be ok. We will see when it comes to some deep snow if I can push through!


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Its a 32t. I have a few friends running similar gearing on their pugs through the winter, so I thinking it will be ok. We will see when it comes to some deep snow if I can push through!


Ya Ive been running a 32t on my Specialized EVO HT 1X with a 11-36 out back and feel rite at home with it, but that's also a 25 pound bike so I'm thinking a 30t might be a better fit for me considering the weight of these fat bikes.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Goddamnit - second ride on the Lurch and flatted BOTH tires. That'll teach me to ride tubes. Conversion is going to happen earlier than expected.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

djrez4 said:


> Goddamnit - second ride on the Lurch and flatted BOTH tires. That'll teach me to ride tubes. Conversion is going to happen earlier than expected.


Which method do you plan to use?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

I just got done re-doing my HL-80's/snowshoe 4.5's tubeless on my Lurch (the hl-80 is the common BD rim). No pics, as it is the same as the pics on the previous page. Replaced the stock rim strip with tye-dye duct tape and secured down with clear packing tape (stock rim strips weigh a whopping 160 g). Then, I put down three layers of the blue sil-foam (a little thicker than the pink) to build up the middle. Used the split tube method and a little soapy water in a spray bottle, and the tire seated no problem. I used a compressor, but it probably would've seated with a floor pump. Re-broke the bead (don't have removable cores), added 5 oz. stans, re-pumped, and was riding 5 minutes later. I've tried 2 different tape methods and both were horrible failures. FYI - do not use CO2 to fill your tires with Stans's. Little did I know, CO2 causes the latex to set up. Within 4 days of setting up tubeless last time (and using CO2 from my keg fridge bottle to seat the beads), the solutions separated into one giant wad of bubble gum and a bunch of useless ammonia water - thus the tubeless redo today.


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

The *U*nited *P*arcel *S*ervice dropped off a purple nurple grape soda 22m extra large bike off today. I took it out for a hot lap. I'm 6'3" and wear 34" length trousers.

The bike had a few minor scrapes, and there was a hole in the box at the rear derailleur. The derailleur hanger was bent pretty bad, but it was coaxed right back into shape with an 8" adjustable.

Does anybody fancy stories, photos and or opinions about the size for riders my height? Keep in mind that I'm really a road cyclist who uses a mountain bike for railroad grades when it rains and snows, I don't jump, ride those narrow hilly bumpy trails. I only ride a railroad grade. It's smooth enough that I also take my road bike on it with 28mm tires. Hence my needs probably differ from somebody who does a lot of those technical trail type riding.

Cheers,
appalachian_kamper


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Appalachian_Kamper said:


> The *U*nited *P*arcel *S*ervice dropped off a purple nurple grape soda 22m extra large bike off today. I took it out for a hot lap. I'm 6'3" and wear 34" length trousers.
> 
> The bike had a few minor scrapes, and there was a hole in the box at the rear derailleur. The derailleur hanger was bent pretty bad, but it was coaxed right back into shape with an 8" adjustable.
> 
> ...


I suppose it doesn't hurt to get more information from a different perspective! Whats your intended use for the lurch? I would email BD about your derailleur. they may be able to help.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

> Does anybody fancy stories, photos and or opinions about the size for riders my height?


Whatever is comfortable for the riding you do, so longer and taller for easier riding where you'll just be sitting and spinning, shorter for more agility if you plan to be moving around a lot while you move. I went with a shorter frame because I do want mnine for playing around, like a really fat BMXer.

Why does a roadie want a fatty anywho?

I can't imagine what your going to think of five inch tires, it's gonna feel like your riding through quicksand 

If you already have the 22" frame, what are you asking about specifically? Are you more interested in knowing about setting it up??


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

skywardx said:


> Any issues with the Race Face 1x setup? Any dropped chains?


I just took a raceface/wolftooth setup off my xc bike. I ate through 2 cassettes, 3 chains, 1 rear derailleur clutch (xt) and 1 34t narrow wide cog in about 700 miles according to strava. It was nice, but the drive train wear was crazy. I washed and oiled my chain religiously. Went back to 2x10 and am happy as a clam. Will be interesting to see what I get out of this drive train.

I got my lurch and got it built yesterday. I rode it around for about a mile. The cranks are super wide, will be interesting to ride clipless.

My bike was pretty banged up and BD insulted me with a $30 cosmetic only refund. I responded that I thought that was insulting because the crank, front wheel and frame were all pretty beat up. They then stepped up to $50 and said that's all they could do. Oh well. I'll get a ride on it hopefully tomorrow or Sunday, post pictures of damage, weigh wheels before and after tubeless conversion and respond with my thoughts.


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> I suppose it doesn't hurt to get more information from a different perspective! Whats your intended use for the lurch? I would email BD about your derailleur. they may be able to help.


Thank you for your response. As I've stated previously, I intend to use it on a railroad grade only. I sometimes have four or five miles of roadway to ride until I get to the rails to trails. The trail is flat due to following the creek. I believe it only rises 80' in its entire length of ten miles. It will also become my rain/snow bike. Further still, I have two trails within 15 miles of my house that are 50 miles round trip each, both being former railroad lines as well, and I do ride year round every day regardless of whether it's 100° Fahrenheit or -10°. I care little if it's bucketing, freezing rain, or snowing.

I'd e-mail BikesDirect, but after reading *Utahbikemike's* post, I don't feel interested. I am more function over fashion. I'll beat the bike up in due time myself. I fixed the derailleur hanger myself. It was bent hard enough that it wouldn't shift into the two smallest gears on the cassette. I've built a few bikes in my time, and I have always done all my own work, so I took off the derailleur, clamped an 8" adjustable to the hanger, and straightened it myself. When I put it back together, it shifted fine through all the gears, so Rob is your father's brother.

Since I came from road bikes, it was rather strange to pedal such a wide spaced crankset. I had the sensation that I was on the doctor's table, and my legs were in those menacing looking stirrups. I got used to it quickly, and when I later went on a trip with my road bike, the transition back made me feel like I was pigeon toed...

I have more than ten acres to ride on with our property and that of the neighbor's. About six or seven of that is mowed field. I had a 2006 Trek 820 with 2.5" tires. It was rather slow to ride through the yard to the neighbor's. The Lurch just floated over the grass with a lot less effort than my old mountain bike when I transitioned from the driveway to the field. Additionally, the neighbor has a huge sand pit where her pool used to be. The pit was recently weeded, so the sand was churned up and soft. I easily rode across it. That would have bogged down my old mountain bike with 2.5" tires.

I rode the rail trail with the Lurch today. It's 10 miles each way. I neither had a cyclometer nor a watch, but it_ felt _ just a tad slower than my road bike. I think some of it had to do with the high and wide cassette. I suspect a tighter road cassette will solve some of this, but I don't expect it to be as fast as my road bike when the trail's in good condition. Cyclists share the trail with equestrian traffic, so after a cavalcade goes through, I'm sure the Lurch will be faster across the washboard effect the horses create.

Since I ride less than a +/- 1° grade, the weight of the bike wasn't as noticeable as I'd suspected. There's a definite drag, but it's not that bad. My biggest complaint is the high and wide cassette drove me to distraction. The 11 - 36 10 speed gearing is going to have to fly. I'll try a road cassette with more reasonable gearing for my riding. Either a 12 - 23 or 12 - 26 'cause the stock selection really left me wanting, as I frequently found myself stuck between one gear that was too low and the next jump was too high.

Is it me, or does that heavy wheel spinning at 20 - 30 mph give a lot of gyroscopic effects? I had to use noticeable effort at those speeds to get it to turn. At low speed, the thing possesses a Mack truck turn radius compared to my 1984 Trek 760 and 1990 Trek 1000, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, 'cause it was nice for a change to be on a bike that's not so damned skittish.

Bike fit: Since I am riding railroad grades, I obviously don't need a small frame. Moreover, I'm sick and tired of brick and motor shops trying to shoe horn me into a small frame 'cause that's what the pros are riding. After 35 years of buying the occasional new bike or having a sales rep tell me to ditch my 25 and 30 year old road bikes to get something new, I skipped the local bike shops and bought my first online bike.

I was a bit concerned that the XL 22M Lurch was going to be too big for me 'cause I am 6' 2 1/2" tall with a 34" inseam in trousers. I can stand flat footed over the bike at the headset, so this thing is not too big for me. I wanted to put that out there in case there are others who're curious. I don't have a problem putting a foot down. It feels smaller than my 60cm Trek 1000 and 62cm Trek 760.

When I got stuck between gears, I noticed it's rather bouncy. It felt similar to my first mountain bike that suffered from shock bob when I got out of the saddle to ascend hills. I put a rigid fork on the previous bike to solve my problem. Perhaps better riding technique or the road cassette and or tire pressure changes may solve it.

Photos of the minor damage:






















***Note, the minor cosmetic dulling of the paint looks much worse than what the photos show. Some 2000 grit wet sanding and then buffing compound would easily take it out in my limited auto body/painting experience. As stated previously, I don't care about the damage. It's a bike to be used... Your views may vary.



Nurse Ben said:


> Whatever is comfortable for the riding you do, so longer and taller for easier riding where you'll just be sitting and spinning, shorter for more agility if you plan to be moving around a lot while you move. I went with a shorter frame because I do want mnine for playing around, like a really fat BMXer.


These are exactly my thoughts, and I couldn't agree more.



Nurse Ben said:


> Why does a roadie want a fatty anywho?


They say a photo's worth 1,000 words, so this is my reason.









If you care to read more, Wouldn't you agree that bikes are fun to ride? Personally, I don't care what they are, but my trail riding isn't much different than my road riding with the exception that I don't have to deal with hills on the trails. I go from point A to point B as fast as I can. Additionally, this past winter, we had 30 days of snow and ice cover. Then it warmed and melted it away. One week later, it snowed once or twice a week for the next two months. Granted they were small storms, but with 0° - 10° daytime high temperatures, it didn't take long to accumulate a 2 foot snow base, and I know people ride snowmobile on the trail, so they keep it somewhat packed. If that doesn't work, I'll chain the tires and ride it on the road. That's not an option with my road bikes.



Nurse Ben said:


> I can't imagine what your going to think of five inch tires, it's gonna feel like your riding through quicksand


You know, I worried about that myself, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. My biggest gripe is the cassette that I wrote about earlier. It is noticeable. The weight of the bike is horrible going up hills, which I don't often do. Once on the trail, I get up to speed, and just hold it, so once it's accelerated up to speed, it's not as hard to maintain as I thought it was going to be.



Nurse Ben said:


> If you already have the 22" frame, what are you asking about specifically? Are you more interested in knowing about setting it up??


I think I've already addressed these questions, so I'll cut the less patient a break. Thanks for responding to my post.

One last photo for the girls:









Cheers, 
appalachian kamper


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> I just took a raceface/wolftooth setup off my xc bike. I ate through 2 cassettes, 3 chains, 1 rear derailleur clutch (xt) and 1 34t narrow wide cog in about 700 miles according to strava. It was nice, but the drive train wear was crazy. I washed and oiled my chain religiously. Went back to 2x10 and am happy as a clam. Will be interesting to see what I get out of this drive train.


Im curious to why you think you damaged your components so much? Any thoughts?


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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

Appalachian_Kamper said:


> The *U*nited *P*arcel *S*ervice dropped off a purple nurple grape soda 22m extra large bike off today. I took it out for a hot lap. I'm 6'3" and wear 34" length trousers.
> 
> The bike had a few minor scrapes, and there was a hole in the box at the rear derailleur. The derailleur hanger was bent pretty bad, but it was coaxed right back into shape with an 8" adjustable.
> 
> ...


Wow. I'm also a similar story. But am 6" and ordered a 20" blue but instead am getting black because BD can't find the blue one in their warehouse. My black will be here Wednesday. I too am mostly a road rider and do rails to trail and with a hybrid road bike. I rarely do mountain biking but may get more into it. I mostly bought the lurch for winter snow riding.

Thanks for all the posts. Excited to get my bike and assemble. Also am going tubeless as well so appreciate all the early people's feedback.


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

sdkjr said:


> Wow. I'm also a similar story. But am 6" and ordered a 20" blue but instead am getting black because BD can't find the blue one in their warehouse. My black will be here Wednesday. *I too am mostly a road rider and do rails to trail and with a hybrid road bike. I rarely do mountain biking but may get more into it.* I mostly bought the lurch for winter snow riding.
> 
> Thanks for all the posts. Excited to get my bike and assemble. Also am going tubeless as well so appreciate all the early people's feedback.


You're welcome. Now addressing the bolded comments, now you've done it! First road bikes, second hybrids, now a mountain bike, soon it will be another mountain bike, then maybe a cyclocross, and I've just got to try one of those down hill trails... Hahaha, it's like eating sweets, you can't have just one! Proceed with caution.

I bet the 20" frame will fit you well.

Cheers, 
appalachian kamper


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Im curious to why you think you damaged your components so much? Any thoughts?


Instead of downshifting, I'd stand and crank because the gears were so far apart. When I was going downhill I was in the 11t cassette gear 99% of the time because I could never get the 13 and 15 to shift properly or reliably once I had more than 100 miles on a cassette. The narrow wide ring collects grime like a magnet and packs it in the chain everywhere.. It is not designed to shed mud at all. (Some companies are putting groves in them this year to help with that)

I'm not going to lie, I'm hard on components but I maintain and take care of my stuff with a level of ocd. I'm the kind of guy that waxes my frames.

If you're riding relatively flat stuff the 1x10 is nice. Just be aware it takes a lot more maintenance. My climbs are usually 1500-2500ft of vert over 12-25 miles. If you're curious and want my strava link I can post it, but I'm having issues with copy/paste on my phone right now


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

PS, here's a pic of my bike all built. Ordered a carbon seat post, carbon bar and homebrew stuff to swap over to tubeless should be here Wednesday.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

skywardx said:


> Ya Ive been running a 32t on my Specialized EVO HT 1X with a 11-36 out back and feel rite at home with it, but that's also a 25 pound bike so I'm thinking a 30t might be a better fit for me considering the weight of these fat bikes.


Had my LBS set mine up with 30 x 11-40. Works perfectly. No dropped chains. So much fun climbing stuff.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> So now that some you have a Lurch maybe you can help with sizing. I'm 5'9" and overweight currently with a 30" inseam pants. Should I get a small or a medium?


I'm the same height with 30-31 inseam. The bikes seem to run small to me. I'm glad I went with the 20". Fits perfectly. Handles devine  Bike fit is such a personal thing. Someone much taller than me might prefer a smaller frame. I did switch the stem to an 80mm with a slight rise.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

*Orange touch up paint code*

So after only a few rides, I have noticed my front brake cable has rubbed through the paint where it routes behind the head tube. Bikes Direct says the paint code is "YS740". Would I just take this code to an auto paint supply store to color match?
I have scoured the web for sites that allow you to enter your automotive paint code, without results. In the mean time, I have put clear automotive film under cables where rubbing may happen.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Quick ride today..no rear dropout slippage :thumbsup:

Motobecane Lurch by Sven98, on Flickr


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

skywardx said:


> Any issues with the Race Face 1x setup? Any dropped chains?


Also forgot to mention, you start dropping chains when the narrow-wide wears out.. even with a clutch derailleur

Anyone seen a carbon fork being made for 150mm front hubs? Looks like all of them on ebay are for 135mm hubs.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Also forgot to mention, you start dropping chains when the narrow-wide wears out.. even with a clutch derailleur


I think the application of your 1x10 to mine is apples to oranges. 700 miles on your xc bike with tons of climbing/thrashing is pretty different than commuting to work in the winter and riding through the snow! Parts wear, but I think from an overall durability standpoint the 1x10 should work nicely for my application.


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

sven98 said:


> Quick ride today..no rear dropout slippage :thumbsup:


I sometimes skid my rear tire to give an appropriate warning for the overly sensitive types our world seems to be filled with. Skidding the tire seems to be the _least _offensive method of all means I've tried over the years, so I lean on the front tire to get as much weight off the rear tire as possible, and lock it up the rear tire for a half second. I was trying to give warning to three women who were taking up the entire 12' width of the trail. The flippin' rear wheel came out of the drop outs. The noise of the rear tire skidding 'cause it fell out scared the women to death, so naturally, I got chastised as I passed them  That's a new one for me, and I've done a lot of stupid things on a bicycle...

Cheers,
appalachian kamper


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

You never hear of that happening w/Surly because they use Shimano skewers. Hope makes a 190 qr


Pedaling


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Here is BDs replacement for my bent skewer! Seems to be much higher quality, and red!


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Appalachian_Kamper said:


> I sometimes skid my rear tire to give an appropriate warning for the overly sensitive types our world seems to be filled with. Skidding the tire seems to be the _least _offensive method of all means I've tried over the years, so I lean on the front tire to get as much weight off the rear tire as possible, and lock it up the rear tire for a half second. I was trying to give warning to three women who were taking up the entire 12' width of the trail. The flippin' rear wheel came out of the drop outs. The noise of the rear tire skidding 'cause it fell out scared the women to death, so naturally, I got chastised as I passed them  That's a new one for me, and I've done a lot of stupid things on a bicycle...
> 
> Cheers,
> appalachian kamper


Oh man you must live in my town. 10-12' trail and two women with asses like 100lb feed sacks taking up all of it. I never thought of locking up a tire as I hate to slow my forward momentum. I do however dive my bike off into the grass and bushes to go around. That always makes them think a bear or mountain lion is about to get them.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Lurch in the wild*








From today's ride.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Orange you happy to see a lil of NYC?


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> View attachment 925046
> 
> From today's ride.


Awesome!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Appalachian_Kamper said:


> I sometimes skid my rear tire to give an appropriate warning for the overly sensitive types our world seems to be filled with. Skidding the tire seems to be the _least _offensive method of all means I've tried over the years, so I lean on the front tire to get as much weight off the rear tire as possible, and lock it up the rear tire for a half second. I was trying to give warning to three women who were taking up the entire 12' width of the trail. The flippin' rear wheel came out of the drop outs. The noise of the rear tire skidding 'cause it fell out scared the women to death, so naturally, I got chastised as I passed them  That's a new one for me, and I've done a lot of stupid things on a bicycle...
> 
> Cheers,
> appalachian kamper


I very much like skidding and scaring the crap out of people that insist on wearing two ear buds. They usually don't hear me if I give them an "on your left" anyways.

Had a jogger jump 3ft off the trail into scrub oak and get stuck. I laughed and felt bad, but you need to pay attention sometimes.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

*High pitched squeak from hubs?*

Anyone else getting this? Started in the rear hub a couple of rides ago then disappeared....now it is in the front. Very annoying, maybe it will go away on its own. If not, what would be a fix?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Kickngas said:


> Anyone else getting this? Started in the rear hub a couple of rides ago then disappeared....now it is in the front. Very annoying, maybe it will go away on its own. If not, what would be a fix?


spray the rubber gasket thingy with a triflow type lube where the rubber gasket thingy meets the hub. use a flat head screwdriver to get the lube to get in there a bit better.

rog


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

newmarketrog said:


> spray the rubber gasket thingy with a triflow type lube where the rubber gasket thingy meets the hub. use a flat head screwdriver to get the lube to get in there a bit better.
> 
> rog


Thanks Rog, sprayed some Gibbs lube on the gaskets and it cleared right up!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Kickngas said:


> Thanks Rog, sprayed some Gibbs lube on the gaskets and it cleared right up!


you're so welcome.

glad it worked for ya!

rog


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Damn you all! I saw a fat bike on the beach yesterday and had to check them out. I spent the last couple hours reading up on the BD Lurch here and before I realized it I done dinged my credit card for a black 22. 

I now need a good cover story for my wife. I don't think "it followed me home " will work this time 

BTW Only the Black was left in 22" at 7pm Sunday.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Velonomad said:


> Damn you all! I saw a fat bike on the beach yesterday and had to check them out. I spent the last couple hours reading up on the BD Lurch here and before I realized it I done dinged my credit card for a black 22.
> 
> I now need a good cover story for my wife. I don't think "it followed me home " will work this time
> 
> BTW Only the Black was left in 22" at 7pm Sunday.


Congrats, and welcome to the Lurch Lounge.

Oh and pics or it didn't happen


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

*Minor Lurch Frame Mod*

I wanted to put a rear rack on my lurch, but there were no attachment points for the front stays. The alternative was rather inelegant (zip ties and duct tape), so I decided to just bite the bullet.

















For anyone interested, this rattle can is a dead nuts color match, by chance.









I top-coated it with this, to blend everything together.









I'm pretty sure my aftermarket coating system is more durable than the stock paint job, which is not. Durable.

I'm also pretty sure the above statement will get nurse ben all worked up, given his contention that this bike is one hundred percent exactly equivalent to the powder coated surly, while saving the buyer hundreds, if not thousands.

Whatevs.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

spovegas said:


> I'm pretty sure my aftermarket coating system is more durable than the stock paint job, which is not. Durable.
> 
> I'm also pretty sure the above statement will get nurse ben all worked up, given his contention that this bike is one hundred percent exactly equivalent to the powder coated surly, while saving the buyer hundreds, if not thousands.
> 
> Whatevs.


After just two rides, my front brake cable sawed through the clear coat, paint and primer behind my head tube. No doubt this is not powder coated!


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Kickngas said:


> After just two rides, my front brake cable sawed through the clear coat, paint and primer behind my head tube. !


I had the same thing happen. My headtube is nearly down to bare metal in some places. When I have the time I'm going to strip the bike down and have it powdercoated.


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## Apeking101 (Sep 4, 2014)

I had the same problem with regards to the cables rubbing the paint. I noticed it early and took both brake cables off and shortened them a little which helped. Did not shorten the shift cable housing however. I went to the lbs and while getting some bottle cages and a pump, asked for something that may help the cable rub issue. They ended up giving me these clear rubber/plastic type adhesive pads for free (awesome). They are bearly noticeable and have completely solved this issue for me. Just fyi, I have the size 16" frame.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Wow on the UPS truck already! I might be riding by Friday. All my bike kit and parts are still up in NY. I'll have to find some cheapo pedals so I can ride it this coming weekend


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

I was able to take my fatty out for a ride yesterday...Oh boy do I love this bike!! It rolls over just about everything, climbs well, and attracts all kinds of comments. What an attention whore!! I can't wait to get out and ride it some more. I've kept it mostly stock, only thing changed is the seat, stem, brake levers and rim strips. I've ordered some q lite tubes hoping to drop a little weight, but if they don't work out, no big deal. I will say that the stock tube is ginormous!! It's pretty comical once it's out of the tire. Anyway, happy riding to all!! Enjoy your fatties!! FYI, I'm riding the 22" frame. I'm 6'4, don't know my inseam, but I have a little bit of room for standover. Overall, the geometry feels like a smaller bike. It's not uncomfortable at all, and I enjoy riding it, so that's all that matters.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

big boy phil said:


> I was able to take my fatty out for a ride yesterday...Oh boy do I love this bike!! It rolls over just about everything, climbs well, and attracts all kinds of comments. What an attention whore!! I can't wait to get out and ride it some more. I've kept it mostly stock, only thing changed is the seat, stem, brake levers and rim strips. I've ordered some q lite tubes hoping to drop a little weight, but if they don't work out, no big deal. I will say that the stock tube is ginormous!! It's pretty comical once it's out of the tire. Anyway, happy riding to all!! Enjoy your fatties!! FYI, I'm riding the 22" frame. I'm 6'4, don't know my inseam, but I have a little bit of room for standover. Overall, the geometry feels like a smaller bike. It's not uncomfortable at all, and I enjoy riding it, so that's all that matters.


That second to last pic is great!....thanks for sharing


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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

Velonomad said:


> Wow on the UPS truck already! I might be riding by Friday. All my bike kit and parts are still up in NY. I'll have to find some cheapo pedals so I can ride it this coming weekend


Jealous. I originally ordered a blue one on 9/12/2014. Didn't hear from BD until I called them early last week asking whats up with shipping. That was when they said they couldn't find it and were sending me a black. That one went out on 9/18/2014 but my delivery date isn't until 9/24. Amazed you are getting yours just one day later - you must be closer to Texas than me (I'm in Michigan)! That is awesome. Happy riding


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Paint is paint, powdercoat is paint, it's more durable than spray on paint, but it still scratches, chips, and wears off. 

I've splurged for powder many times, but it's really not worth the trouble. 

As for spray on paint being as durable as factory paint, not likely.

I ride my bikes, they never look new again, so why pretend? All I worry about is rust.

I still don't understand why anyone would but a cheap ass fat bike, complain about it's weaknesses, then start making upgrades.

For anyone reading this thread who is on the fence about buying a bike from Motobecane, please pay attention to your needs and desires, this bike is not an end all and be all to fat bikes. It is a decent bike for a decent price.

For perspective, my 650 FS cost more than four times as much as my Lurch. 

And I like them both


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I wanted some three season tires for use until it snows, was talking to Shiggy about the Floater, read the reviews, and ordered a set from the UK. Amazingly they arrived in four days. 

I have two rides on them so far, they are great tires, zero autosteer, no issues with steering under hard braking, very nimble for a big tire.

I highly recommend them!

I also went to a short stem and that really quickened the action


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

It's not a "cheap ass fatbike". That's the mongoose bikes. I'd consider these midrange.

Why upgrade? That's half of the fun with a new bike. Tinkering, setting it up and customizing it.

Is the bike rideable as is? Sure. Do I need a carbon bar and seapost? No, but it makes it a hell of a lot nicer to ride. It also makes it mine.

From my rainy ride on Sunday. It was pouring but it was one of the most fun rides I've had in recent memory.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

Everyone upgrades, no matter what they paid or what brand the bike is. That is part of the fun. Ride.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Kickngas said:


> Everyone upgrades, no matter what they paid or what brand the bike is. That is part of the fun. Ride.


Agreed!


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Added some personal motivation on the Lurch to match my single speed tonight!:thumbsup:


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I think one of the most frustrating things I've ever done is yet to convert this bike to tubeless. I tried to get this thing to seal for two and a half hours before throwing the tube back in. I did measure it before and after tubeless and found it saved 340 grams per tire.

I was unable to get it to seal. For some reason it leaked between the butt joint in the rim and out of the rim strip. Going to pick up some 24" tubes and go ghetto tomorrow.


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## stephend9 (Jan 28, 2010)

I spent all afternoon unsuccessfully trying to set my 2 Lurch's up tubeless. On mine, I replaced the rim tape with some really tight strapping tape, then used window foam and finally gorilla glue. No dice. I hear tiny leaks around the rim holes and no amount of stans shaking seems to seal these up.

So on my wife's lurch, I left the rim strip in and just added weather stripping to the edges and then gorilla taped each side with 1" and then finished up with 1.8" gorilla tape in the center connecting the two side pieces. The bead seats fine on hers, but somehow air and stans are getting through and coming out the rim and spoke holes.

On both of the bikes, I covered the rim joint area with tape on the inside, but somehow I think it's still getting though. Just not sure how.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

I've put quite a bit of time into ghetto tubeless fat setups over the past couple of years, to the point I think I have kind of a "feel" for what will/won't, does/doesn't work. And when I started playing with the tires and rims that came on my lurch, there is just no way that you're going to get things to seal tubeless without going split tube, IMHO.

I have a few different tires and tubes in my possession that I am playing with and swapping in/out, so going tubeless doesn't make much sense for me at the moment, but if I were to go that route, it would surely be split tube.

(I'm sure that the fact that I don't believe the stock setup is awesome and totally conducive to plug-and-play tubeless will infuriate fanboy nurse ben, so watch for the obligatory backlash. :madmax


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Yeah...I tried tubeless on the front wheel. I used clear gorilla tape and built up the center with one wrap of foam (stuffed used to seal the sill plate on a house). Couldnt get it to seal at all, even with my compressor. So...tubes for now.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Agreed - there was no way in hell that taped tubeless will work on these rims. Split tube ghetto with 2-3 layers of sill-foam under the split tube, 5 oz stans, and you're golden. I've rode every single day since setting this up and have yet to even burp at PSI's as low at 7 on techy singletrack. 

2 week ride report - it just keeps getting funner on this thing. No mechanical issues, the wheels haven't fallen off, this is a good bike. I did run the rear wheel all the way forward in the drop-outs. It did liven up the ride, but also made it a little more harsh. The are not any clearance issues with the stock wheel/tire setup all the way forward on the 18" frame - I did have to zip tie the front derailleur housing to the seat tube, but other than than, it works fine. Bigger winter tires will require moving the wheel back a little, but not a ton. 
FYI - I made some laps on a friends Pugs over the weekend. I found it flexier than the Lurch. In some instances it felt more compliant to trail features, in others, overly flexy. Six one way, half a dozen another. Both rides were fun.


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## stephend9 (Jan 28, 2010)

I've never let a tubeless setup beat me, but after getting more ideas from friends and 8+ hours of work I still can't get this setup to stay inflated overnight tubeless. I gave tubeless one more chance, but now I'm back to tubes. Here's what I did in case anyone wants to learn from my failures. The rim tape was removed before I started all this:

1. Buffed shiny rim surface with light sand paper to get better tape adhesion. Sanded down some of the really sharp spoke nipples just in case they were causing holes in the tape.
2. Clean rim with alcohol and lint free cloth.
3. Super Glued inside of rim joint.
4. 17mm Strapping tape in center channel between nipples. I did this first wrap extremely tight.
5. 2 wraps of 1.88" black Gorilla tape. One on each side of the rim channel. They slightly overlap the center piece of strapping tape and sit very smooth and seemed to have a great seal with the rim.
6. This step I haven't seen anyone else do, but it was way better than weather stripping (which seems to pack down fast). I cut a section out of a cheap Wal-Mart foam closed cell camping pad the width of the deep center rim channel (about 2 inches wide). I taped this into the center of the rim which filled everything up nicely and forces the tire toward the edge making it seat much easier (although still requires a compressor. This foam is closed cell so I didn't even bother covering it with tape. I just used a piece of gorilla tape and stretched it tight and taped over it lengthwise with a 12 inch piece of tape. I located the small gap in the camping pad over the valve hole.

The result was slow leaks where stans bubbled out of the nipples and rim holes. It would take about 30 minutes to drop from 20 psi to 5psi. Oh well, back to tubes.

I've ordered some "Tough and Wide 2.88 Gorilla tape" from Amazon and will try again soon once the new tape arrives. I'm hoping that one continuous piece will work better and that the multiple tape pieces may have been the source of the leaks. Just a guess though.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Great info stephend9. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Good luck with the wider tape.


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

So I am in no way a "weight weenie", but I am wondering what might be some parts of the bike to consider changing in order to drop the overall weight? I love the bike as it is now, but as we all do when we're not riding, we like to turn wrenches. So if there's any weight to be lost on the Lurch, where would you all look? I was thinking seat post, handle bars, tubes, tires, crankset?? Not really sure where else to look. Does anyone happen to know what some of the stock parts weigh?


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

big boy phil said:


> So I am in no way a "weight weenie", but I am wondering what might be some parts of the bike to consider changing in order to drop the overall weight? I love the bike as it is now, but as we all do when we're not riding, we like to turn wrenches. So if there's any weight to be lost on the Lurch, where would you all look? I was thinking seat post, handle bars, tubes, tires, crankset?? Not really sure where else to look. Does anyone happen to know what some of the stock parts weigh?


The frame and fork!

Seriously though, probably post, bar & tubes are probably the cheapest grams per dollar. Going 1x will shave a pound for about $60 for a narrow-wide chainring. But your conditions/riding may not suit a 1x set-up. Crank is going to save you about 1/2 lb, but at about a $250 price tag to go to a Race Face Turbine Cinch. Brakes will save you some weight as well .


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## stephend9 (Jan 28, 2010)

I dropped a pound by going 1x10* with a 34T narrow-wide chainring.

*I left on the 22T chainring. I live in the mountains of Colorado, so in case I'm doing a huge climb up to a pass on a slow day I can just reach down and manually move the chainring to the 22T. There's no chain drop protection (other than the Type 2 clutch derailleur) so I will put it back on the big ring before doing any rough descending, but for normal slow climbing or snow riding I don't expect to drop a chain.


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## rschreck (Aug 11, 2014)

big boy phil said:


> So I am in no way a "weight weenie", but I am wondering what might be some parts of the bike to consider changing in order to drop the overall weight? I love the bike as it is now, but as we all do when we're not riding, we like to turn wrenches. So if there's any weight to be lost on the Lurch, where would you all look? I was thinking seat post, handle bars, tubes, tires, crankset?? Not really sure where else to look. Does anyone happen to know what some of the stock parts weigh?


The whole bike.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Good luck getting the Lurch to run tubeless, I have some tubeless skills, even got my 36er wire bead to seal, but these rims no go. Perhaps with the help of a tire shop, they have very high flow to pop the bead in place.

You can run 300gm tubes with some sealant, it's fairly light and kinda thorn resistant. So far straight tubes are working for me.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

What weight 

Perhaps the best way to think about weight on a fat bike is to look at what is different between a fat bike and a non fat bike

Tires and tubes, an extra kilo per wheel

Rims and hubs, an extra half kilo per wheel

The parts are inexpensive, so they probably weigh more, but when you consider all that wheel weight, losing 50gms on stem.and bars is not much.

For sure, lose the big tubeless rotational weigh is more noticeable when riding.

A narrower tire may not be that much lighter; the Snowshoes are ~ 1500gms, but I really noticed an increase in agility going to floaters (1450gsm)


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> . . . the Snowshoes are ~ 1500gms . . .


No, they're not, ben. You're not even in the ballpark.









phil, the biggest bang for your buck is to drop $20 on some Q-tubes. It will buy you over a pound. That's the end of the low hanging fruit, though.

Everything else will start to add significant expense to a budget bike, so it's up to you as to how creative you want to get and how much cash you are willing to throw at a mail-order bike to turn it into something different than it is.

I think it's a pretty good value as-is. Yep, it's fairly heavy. I would suggest throwing some light tubes on and then just go ride. If you want a lighter fatbike, the most economical way to get there is to pony up and purchase something that has been designed to be light. Otherwise, you're just throwing good money after bad.

I've posted crank weights and others have posted weights of other components on this thread. If you're interested in doing your homework, it's out there for the taking.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Mine were just under 1500gms, weighed em' both...my point is that the tires are not extremely heavy compared to a typical fat tire, but they are twice the weight of a typical mtb tire.

For a budget bike it is not heavy, but if weight is an issue, then don't buy a budget bike.

By the time you spend the cash to upgrade this bike to "lightweight", you could have purchased a higher quality bike with a better frame set.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

If you want a "lightweight" bike, don't expect a fat bike to ever become a featherweight. The bikes are fat and, well, they are heavy. I have seen some in the low 20's, but like anything else, you have to pay to get certain attributes you like such as light weight carbon frames and wheels. The Specialized I test rode for a weekend was very nice, but the price was out of my range. I like my Lurch and knew going in that it would be a cheaper bike with a lower quality frameset and heavy, but for my purposes, it fits my needs therefore I am content...for now.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> For a budget bike it is not heavy, but if weight is an issue, then don't buy a budget bike.
> 
> By the time you spend the cash to upgrade this bike to "lightweight", you could have purchased a higher quality bike with a better frame set.


^^^Completely agree, Ben.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

If I stay in the fat bike game long enough, and I use the bike as much as I think I will, my guess is that I'll go full boat and get a lightweight blinged out FS, probably have two wheel sets to make it more four season.

I first got hooked on fat while riding muni, started with a Larry, it rolled everything, made me full like superman. I just really like the way fat tires ride, they may not be ideal for everything, but they are sure fun! I am really excited about getting my Bluto on this weekend (figures crossed). 

There's a guy in town who is trying to get a Bucksaw, I can't wait to give it a spin


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

I think the lurch is great "as-is". My 29er is 12 lbs lighter than the lurch and honestly I cant tell the difference while riding. Climbing seems almost easier on the lurch, especially over rooty/rocky climbs...gotta be the volume of tires and the traction they deliver. I dunno, I really like the way the lurch is and weight reduction is not really #1 priority for me. I did the normal stem/bar/grip swap, added pedals and Im done for now.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Lurch showed up on time and in excellent condition, Two quick questions. The front brake disc bolts are those T25 Torx size?( T20 is largest I have on hand) I don't have any tire tools down here with me so I need to make a LBS run,will standard tire levers or a quik-stik remove the tires?

Rick


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Velonomad said:


> Lurch showed up on time and in excellent condition, Two quick questions. The front brake disc bolts are those T25 Torx size?( T20 is largest I have on hand) I don't have any tire tools down here with me so I need to make a LBS run,will standard tire levers or a quik-stik remove the tires?


T25 is correct. Regular or no levers should remove the tires. Mine are quite loose.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Yet another terrible ride on the Lurch ;-)

77 and sunny by bbaker22, on Flickr

Old Chub by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## tonyvt (Mar 26, 2010)

Fat Bikes should have been called Chub Bikes!


baker said:


> Yet another terrible ride on the Lurch ;-)
> 
> 77 and sunny by bbaker22, on Flickr
> 
> Old Chub by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

baker said:


> Yet another terrible ride on the Lurch ;-)
> 
> 77 and sunny by bbaker22, on Flickr
> 
> Old Chub by bbaker22, on Flickr


Now that seems like an awesome ride! Thanks for the pics!


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

baker said:


> T25 is correct. Regular or no levers should remove the tires. Mine are quite loose.


Thanks


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Tried to split tube tonight.. Regular q tube 24x2" tube.. It wasn't wide enough and that's all the lbs by me had. What light qtube works the best in these things? Think I'm going to do a light tube with 2 oz stans (homebrew) in the tubes and forget about tubeless. 

Took this bike up and down 2k ft of vertical over 11 miles last night. Definitely has a more relaxed climbing style, you can just sit and climb over everything. Rear tire didn't wash or spin while cranking hard. Downhill reminded me quickly that the bike was rigid. With a bluto I bet this bike would be a much better descender but it's decent as-is for sure. The bb7s are actually pretty decent. Good power and great modulation.

Next week I start getting Chinese carbon bits, which should help a bit with ride quality.

Biggest thing I've noticed with the wide q factor is that different muscles in my butt were getting worked versus my xc bike. It hasn't been a factor other than that. Loving this bike for the money.


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## stephend9 (Jan 28, 2010)

Utahbikemike said:


> The bb7s are actually pretty decent. Good power and great modulation.
> 
> Next week I start getting Chinese carbon bits, which should help a bit with ride quality.


If you really want to get the most out of the BB7 brakes, swap to some Avid "speed dial" levers with the modulation adjustment. After I did this upgrade on my Lurch and trued the rotors really well I feel the stopping power is up there with my top hydraulic brakes.

I stole a chinese carbon handlebar and seatpost off my old single speed and it really helped the feel and ride of this bike. You won't be disappointed with this upgrade on the Lurch.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Assembled my Lurch this evening. I ran into that brake rubbing issue on the rear wheel. No amount of pad adjustment or realigning the caliper would stop the rubbing. The disc was too close to the caliper and the operating pad was retracted all the way in. I just began to disassemble the caliper to sand some material off of the caliper bracket( It is much easier to sand that little aluminum bracket than the steel mount). I suddenly noticed that the caliper had sufficient clearance at the front of the caliper. After studying it a few minutes, I removed the caliper and compared the alignment of the brake caliper mount to the center line of the frame with 2 straight edges. Ha! the caliper mount is out of alignment by a good millimeter. Compare the two red circles in the photo. 


I took a 8" adjustable wrench and gave the mount a little tug to the outside and moved it a good millimeter. I bolted the caliper back on and tried aligning it again. It lined up perfectly to factory spec with no rubbing

I'll post more pics and first ride report tomorrow.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Velonomad said:


> I took a 8" adjustable wrench and gave the mount a little tug to the outside and moved it a good millimeter. I bolted the caliper back on and tried aligning it again. It lined up perfectly to factory spec with no rubbing


Good idea. I think I'll check on my alignment the next time I have the bike up on the work stand.

Thanks!


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## Bryan1113 (Feb 21, 2013)

Was all in to buy Surly Pugs but saw Lurch on Bikesdirect....Looks like very sweet ride at amazing price! How do you all like your bikes? No winter riding for me...Just dry desert trail riding


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Bryan1113 said:


> Was all in to buy Surly Pugs but saw Lurch on Bikesdirect....Looks like very sweet ride at amazing price! How do you all like your bikes? No winter riding for me...Just dry desert trail riding


I guess to quickly summarize this thread. Some people think they are the best, some think they are functional and a good value bike.

Personally, I bought it to ride in the snow and have some fun when on slower group rides! I have had to make a few modifications here and there, nothing major. I really enjoy riding it! Its no beauty queen, weighs approx 38 lbs on the 22" frame.

I can tell you this, every time I ride it I have a big smile on my face!

I hope this helps!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Fat bikes are heavy, but that's the price for riding fat.

If my fat bike was my only bike, I'd spend more and get the lightest bike possible.

For comparison, my 650fs cost $4000 plus, my Lurch cost $900.

If you don't ride snow, you don't need 5" tires, so figure that when you pick a bike. 

If you are buying for desert riding, why go so fat, why not a plus series bike? A nice 29+, 650 +, or even a 26 + might be a better choice.

Front suspension is worth the price, you save ~$150 getting it with the bike, but then you have to wait until December.

I bought the Lurch for the sliding drop outs, which allow me to slide the wheel forward and reduce wheelbase for improved handling. With 4" Floaters I have a very nice handling bike, quick for a fatty, but it's still a heavy bike; I won't weigh it, what's the point?

Sometimes it's worthwhile getting an inexpensive bike to start, especially wen you're buying into a new "style", because it's hard to know what you will like until youget a chance to do some riding.

It's been raining, normally we are dry, the rain brings out the clay... so last night I slogged up a bunch of slimy double track that I never would have made on my skinny tires, then I connected with some swoopy single track that was a hoot on fatties, then I busted my way through a mix of double and single track all the way home, never really regretting the choice to bring a fatty.

Tires matter, make sure you pick some that suit your needs.


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## Bryan1113 (Feb 21, 2013)

Well currently ride Trek Superfly and it's great bike...There are just so many trails and areas where Fat Bikes are perfect where I live. Spending 2k plus for one is way out my budget right now so this looking like great option.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

So today was first day with the Lurch. All in all very pleased with it. Dealing with Bikes Direct was painless and the bike arrived in 3 days. No damage what so ever to the bike from shipping.

This is my first production bike since I bought a tandem in 1992. All the others I own (7 currently) are bikes I built including the frame sets.
Having built and repaired a number of frames over the years I don't get much impressed these days about higher end production frames. I have seen just as many broken $1500 frames as $150 frames. If the welds are clean and the alignment is within a millimeter or two it will ride just fine. The Lurch has nice smooth even welds, I have seen worse on much more expensive bikes. I did a quick check on the frame with a straight edge and a fishing line. Everything looked good. no crabbing or twist I could detect. The only tweak I had to make was to the rear brake bracket mentioned in an earlier post

Components, there is nothing I hate. The SRAM X7- X9 derailleurs and shifters are proven, they shifted quickly and reliably. The Avid brakes once adjusted worked great. The wheel set is decent I looked at the wheelset more than anything else when I was choosing which bike to order. The Novatec(JoyTech)hubs are not Hope ,Chris King or XTR's but they are a well regarded OEM hub with cartridge bearings which means I can upgrade the bearings to a high end bearing once they wear out.

Nothing wrong with the Weimann rims, but because I ride in loose sand a lot, I may eventually change to 4" wide rims to get a broader, flatter contact patch. The rim prices are coming down and the choices are getting better, Maybe next year.

I do have a minor gripe with the crank Q-factor which measures inside the arms about 205mm. (vs average 170 mm for MTB's) I'm long legged and it didn't cause me any knee pain after several hours of riding but it feels weird. The extra 20mm in spindle length requiring the two 10 mm spacers is IMO unnecessary. Sounds like something was misunderstood when the crank was spec'ed. There is way more than enough clearance for the crank arms and inner chain ring. This amount of spacing is not seen on the Surly Ice cream Truck nor the new Trek which both have 100mm BB's. I will probably replace the crank (~$175-$250) once these chain rings wear out.

I didn't weight it , It feels about the same as my 38 lb tandem. More effective IMO and a helluva lot less expensive to remove several lbs from the rider than the bike.

The changes I will make soon are swapping the saddle out for a Brooks B17 (I have an extra),different grips and adding bar ends. Pedals, I'm using a pair of $7 dept store pedals. I'm thinking of a large BMX type with SPD on one side.

I rode it about 15 miles around town this morning to bed the brake pads and get used to it. It makes a great urban bike too. Pot holes curbs and railroad tracks matter less.

Went to the beach this afternoon and rode another 12 miles, 6 of that into a 25-30 mph wind. I loved riding it in the sand! It easily plowed right through the loose dry stuff and handled both hard packed and soft wet sand with ease. It bought me instant cred with the Jeep and Bubba truck crowd on the far end of the island. It drew a crowd timed I stopped. I loaned it out to 4 different people to try. Hard to ride this bike and not smile!


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Bryan1113 said:


> Was all in to buy Surly Pugs but saw Lurch on Bikesdirect....Looks like very sweet ride at amazing price! How do you all like your bikes? No winter riding for me...Just dry desert trail riding


I have only had mine for a day and I'm loving it. It is a good value for a mid-range bike. Just keep in mind you might have a couple bugs to work out for that low price.

BTW, f you have an extra $2500 burning a hole in your pocket take a look at the Ice Cream Truck,IMO more similar in spec to the Lurch than the Pugsley


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Can someone throw me a link for the lightweight qtubes? Are they just the normal 2" ones and they stretch out?


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Utahbikemike said:


> Can someone throw me a link for the lightweight qtubes? Are they just the normal 2" ones and they stretch out?


This might help
Lighter Fatbike Tube Alternatives | FAT-BIKE.COM


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Bryan1113 said:


> Well currently ride Trek Superfly and it's great bike...There are just so many trails and areas where Fat Bikes are perfect where I live. Spending 2k plus for one is way out my budget right now so this looking like great option.


I was in the same boat! Just wanted something that wasnt really, really expensive (I realize this is relative, but anyway) that would be fun to ride. I do agree that buying a little more expensive bike will have its advantages, but if an 85 chevy will do the work, why buy a Ferrari?

You dont need to spend many thousands to have fun on a bike.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Velonomad said:


> I do have a minor gripe with the crank Q-factor which measures inside the arms about 205mm. (vs average 170 mm for MTB's) I'm long legged and it didn't cause me any knee pain after several hours of riding but it feels weird. The extra 20mm in spindle length requiring the two 10 mm spacers is IMO unnecessary. Sounds like something was misunderstood when the crank was spec'ed. There is way more than enough clearance for the crank arms and inner chain ring. This amount of spacing is not seen on the Surly Ice cream Truck nor the new Trek which both have 100mm BB's. I will probably replace the crank (~$175-$250) once these chain rings wear out.


We covered this one earlier in the thread. It looks weird, but it is the configuration that appears to be typical for 190mm bikes. There's clearance to move it in, but you'll create an improper chainline unless you go 1x. The chainline and 190mm was necessary for 5" tires. The Ice Cream Truck uses a wider press fit shell and the Surly OD crank which has a tweaked ring offset to accommodate.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

car_nut said:


> We covered this one earlier in the thread. It looks weird, but it is the configuration that appears to be typical for 190mm bikes. There's clearance to move it in, but you'll create an improper chainline unless you go 1x. The chainline and 190mm was necessary for 5" tires. The Ice Cream Truck uses a wider press fit shell and the Surly OD crank which has a tweaked ring offset to accommodate.


Thanks for the reply, I missed that conversation when I was reading through all the posts. I saw your link to the Race Face crank. I pretty certain what is going on is that some manufacturer(s) are sticking a longer spindle into a 70mm width crank and correcting the chainline with 10/11mm spacers.

On my bike, Chain line at the crank as measured is ~74 mm to the inner face of the outer chainring. On the cassette from the inner face of the 5th cog to center line of the bottom bracket is a ~ 70-71 mm. The Q to the inside of the crank arms is 205 mm . Measuring across the chainstays at the tip of the crank arms I get 159 mm.

Here is the spec drawing for the SRAM X9 with 100mm BB for fat bikes


The X9 chain line at 69.5 mm is within 1-2 mm of the center of the cassette, no issue there. The Q-of the X9 crank arms is 179 mm which should give 10 mm of clearance at each side.

Here is a link to the Surly OD cranks for 100mm BB. The Pugsley would fit but only 7-8 mm clearance to the Chainstays. https://surlybikes.com//uploads/downloads/Surly_Crankset_Dimensions.PDF

Anything I'm missing here?

BTW: The X5 fatbike crankset has the same specs


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Velonomad said:


> Thanks for the reply, I missed that conversation when I was reading through all the posts. I saw your link to the Race Face crank. I pretty certain what is going on is that some manufacturer(s) are sticking a longer spindle into a 70mm width crank and correcting the chainline with 10/11mm spacers.
> 
> On my bike, Chain line at the crank as measured is ~74 mm to the inner face of the outer chainring. On the cassette from the inner face of the 5th cog to center line of the bottom bracket is a ~ 70-71 mm. The Q to the inside of the crank arms is 205 mm . Measuring across the chainstays at the tip of the crank arms I get 159 mm.
> 
> ...


So does this mean the spacers aren't necessary?


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Sparkitekt said:


> So does this mean the spacers aren't necessary?


The spacers are necessary with the crankset the Lurch comes with. It won't work at all with out them. I'm guessing the newer cranksets from SRAM and the Surly OD may have less of an angle in the crank arms and an offset in the crank spider so they don't need the spacer to clear the chainstays or get a good chain line on the 190mm rear hub.


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## Kickngas (Aug 6, 2013)

velonomad, looks like you rode Wrightsville....I am in Wilmington also. Planning a ride next week on Holden Beach. Send me a PM and maybe you have the time to join in with me and my buddy on our Lurch's!


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Kickngas said:


> velonomad, looks like you rode Wrightsville....I am in Wilmington also. Planning a ride next week on Holden Beach. Send me a PM and maybe you have the time to join in with me and my buddy on our Lurch's!


Actually that was Carolina Beach. I'll send you a PM later today. I'm out of town from next Wednesday to Monday. Low tide is at 5pm today I'm heading out right now to Fort Fisher to ride the beach towards Bald Head.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Velonomad said:


> On my bike, Chain line at the crank as measured is ~74 mm to the inner face of the outer chainring.


This is the part that is confusing. If you look at the Race Face chainline chart, the inner ring chainline should be in the ~74mm range. Surly cheats this a bit and puts their's at 72mm for the Moonlander (the Moony has a chainline equivalent to a 190mm symmetrical). The Pug chainline is equivalent to a 170mm frame.

The SRAM cranks are not intended for 190mm framesets, 170mm only. That doesn't mean it won't work with the narrowed chainline, but you'll have limited access to the cassette when in the smaller ring (not an issue IMO). You won't have clearance for anything bigger than the 4" tires you currently have though.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

So if one were to goto a 1x setup on the lurch, could I use a 170 width crank (like a raceface turbine) and have an ok chainline ? My right knee would thank me.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

car_nut said:


> This is the part that is confusing. If you look at the Race Face chainline chart, the inner ring chainline should be in the ~74mm range. Surly cheats this a bit and puts their's at 72mm for the Moonlander (the Moony has a chainline equivalent to a 190mm symmetrical). The Pug chainline is equivalent to a 170mm frame.
> 
> The SRAM cranks are not intended for 190mm framesets, 170mm only. That doesn't mean it won't work with the narrowed chainline, but you'll have limited access to the cassette when in the smaller ring (not an issue IMO). *You won't have clearance for anything bigger than the 4" tires you currently have though.*


Ha! Thanks! I knew I was missing something. You are right about the tire-to-chain clearance. It is 13-14mm now. Installing a crank like a Sram X9 that clearance would fall to about 6 mm. That Sram bottom bracket doesn't use any spacers on 100mm so no where to cheat to gain any clearance, Surly MoonLander is the only one that will fit and maintain tire clearance. The Moonlander will reduce Q by 22 mm over the OEM crank, that is pretty significant. I might go ahead and order one next week.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

sven98 said:


> So if one were to go to a 1x setup on the lurch, could I use a 170 width crank (like a raceface turbine) and have an ok chainline ? My right knee would thank me.


71-
I would think so, If the chain line is around 71-72mm( that is what I measure to the center of the cassette) and the inside Q of the crank arms is at least 179mm it should work. If you wanted to go cheap you could get a Sram X5 and throw away the inner chainring.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

sven98 said:


> So if one were to goto a 1x setup on the lurch, could I use a 170 width crank (like a raceface turbine) and have an ok chainline ? My right knee would thank me.


I dont see from the chart that going with a Raceface turbine for a 170mm rear spacing would give you more than a 66.5mm chainline,

From the chart http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/FATBIKE-CRANK-CLEARANCES.pdf

170..........Single Ring 32-38t........66.5 chainline.........Max Tire...4.0
170...........Single Ring 30t............64.5 chainline........Max Tire...4.0

The 190mm spaced Turbine in a single ring setup would give you a 75mm chainline and allow a 5 in. tire but still a 222mm Q-factor albeit better than the 232 you now have.

Tech talk from Salsa:
a frame with a 190mm rear hub should never be paired with a 66.5mm chainline crankset, as this will also result in a drastic misalignment of the chainrings to the cassette. Yes the cranks will turn and the gears will go around - but the misalignment will result in poor drivetrain performance and premature wear - fingernails on a chalkboard for the drivetrain designer

Forgive me if I am misinterpreting the chart, just trying to further the discussion


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

skywardx said:


> Forgive me if I am misinterpreting the chart, just trying to further the discussion


What you've quoted is spot on, but if you read between the lines it might be possible. First option is the one in bold with "direct mount flipped". This only works with the Cinch or Next SL. That config uses a 170mm spindle with a flipped direct mount to give the correct chainline.

Another option which isn't quite so clear to me is using the outboard position of a 3x crank. I believe the chainline listed for the 170mm 1x is at the inboard position. Mounting it on the outside should give a ~8mm offset, which would put it at 76mm.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

car_nut said:


> What you've quoted is spot on, but if you read between the lines it might be possible. First option is the one in bold with "direct mount flipped". This only works with the Cinch or Next SL. That config uses a 170mm spindle with a flipped direct mount to give the correct chainline.
> 
> Another option which isn't quite so clear to me is using the outboard position of a 3x crank. I believe the chainline listed for the 170mm 1x is at the inboard position. Mounting it on the outside should give a ~8mm offset, which would put it at 76mm.


Once again another teachable moment from car_nut:thumbsup:

(I believe the chainline listed for the 170mm 1x is at the inboard position)

I thought that was the case, I assumed that with a 1x setup the single ring(nw) was always mounted in the outboard position for clearances and such and based off that assumption mounting the ring inboard would further reduce the chainline. Kind of confusing when 30t nw rings are designed with an offset to allow clearance for the spider, suggesting the outboard mount. Looking at the chart they list a change in the 1x chainline from 66.5 for the 32-38 rings to 64.5 for the 30t indicating an offset ring. Not sure why they dont list a 170 turbine 1x outer ring position chainline spec. They would have to assume some would be interested in keeping proper chainline, max tire size while achieving reduced Q-factor using a 190mm hub in a 1x setup. I guess the Raceface chart listing the inner ring specs is more in line with tire/chainline compatibility then chainline/Q-factor regardless of tire size going 1x.


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## Traktor (Oct 18, 2004)

Anyone riding Bud and Lou on a Lurch? Do they fit?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Okay, so for those who don't want to think so hard about the the crank offset (moi)...

I am only interested in running 4" tires, but I want to retain the 2 x 10, what cranks will allow a narrower q without messing with the chain line? 

Thanks


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Nurse Ben said:


> Okay, so for those who don't want to think so hard about the the crank offset (moi)...
> 
> I am only interested in running 4" tires, but I want to retain the 2 x 10, what cranks will allow a narrower q without messing with the chain line?
> 
> Thanks


Surly OD is pretty much your only choice with a meaningful difference. You have to understand the order of the decision tree:
- Decide what tire clearance you want
- Select necessary rear hub spacing (190mm in this case)
- Use crankset with appropriate chainline

Even if you decided to only use 2.0" tires from now on, you're still stuck with that 190mm rear end. If you only wanted clearance for 4" tires and a narrow Q, then a bike with 170mm rear spacing would have been the better choice.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

car_nut said:


> Surly OD is pretty much your only choice with a meaningful difference. You have to understand the order of the decision tree:
> - Decide what tire clearance you want
> - Select necessary rear hub spacing (190mm in this case)
> - Use crankset with appropriate chainline
> ...


Yup. The Moonlander is about the only thing that fits properly at this point without changing the chain line and/or the tire clearance. If I wasn't wanting to use a larger tire or rim in the future and I wanted as low a Q as possible I would put a SRAM X5 or X9(chain line be damned). I rode 16 miles of logging trails today and I kept experimenting with pedaling while I had my feet tucked in and barely dragging on the crank arms. It felt more natural to me so I ordered a Moonlander crank when I got home.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

skywardx said:


> Not sure why they dont list a 170 turbine 1x outer ring position chainline spec. They would have to assume some would be interested in keeping proper chainline, max tire size while achieving reduced Q-factor using a 190mm hub in a 1x setup. I guess the Raceface chart listing the inner ring specs is more in line with tire/chainline compatibility then chainline/Q-factor regardless of tire size going 1x.


I'm looking at my crank options for my NIght Train coming in just over a month. I was thinking exactly the same thing as CarNut, as long as the Q is wide enough to clear the chainstays under power/flex, and there are no heel-rub issues. But since the CINCH 170mm spindle with a flipped ring shows a Q of 202mm, a Turbin/Ride 104BCD with a Q of 200 (2mm narrower) shouldn't pose much more of a problem for clearance.

The reason I think RF isn't posting this 170mm OLD crank with an outboard position 1x ring is that they are trying to drive all of us to buying their all-new CINCH system with a direct-mount ring. As a marketer, would you rather tell early-adopter customers searching for niche/individualization to a $350 solution (Cinch Cranks, proprietary Bottom Bracket, proprietary Direct Mount Ring, proprietary BB tool) or a $150 solution (Ride Crank + NW ring)?

I'm going with a Ride/outboard 30T NW set-up as long as chainstay clearance is sufficient.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Snowy Lurch*








All fendered up and ready for muck. Vail Pass.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

neons97 said:


> I'm looking at my crank options for my NIght Train coming in just over a month. I was thinking exactly the same thing as CarNut, as long as the Q is wide enough to clear the chainstays under power/flex, and there are no heel-rub issues. But since the CINCH 170mm spindle with a flipped ring shows a Q of 202mm, a Turbin/Ride 104BCD with a Q of 200 (2mm narrower) shouldn't pose much more of a problem for clearance.
> 
> The reason I think RF isn't posting this 170mm OLD crank with an outboard position 1x ring is that they are trying to drive all of us to buying their all-new CINCH system with a direct-mount ring. As a marketer, would you rather tell early-adopter customers searching for niche/individualization to a $350 solution (Cinch Cranks, proprietary Bottom Bracket, proprietary Direct Mount Ring, proprietary BB tool) or a $150 solution (Ride Crank + NW ring)?
> 
> I'm going with a Ride/outboard 30T NW set-up as long as chainstay clearance is sufficient.


Im in the same boat as you are waiting for the boat....:crazy: That is to say Im waiting on the Nighttrain as well and going 1x asap. Already have the 30tnw and have been kicking around the idea of trying a narrower Q 170 crank. I noticed Trek is using the Raceface Ride on the Farley 6 albeit a 2x10 setup using 3.8 tires....might be another option to consider.

Your thinking on the push to drive us into buying the newer setups is a good point. Why would you point out that existing 170mm offerings in cranks going with a 1x setup(assuming they do in fact work in this case) would be an option dealing with 190mm rear spacings Q-factor and chainline, when you offer newer products that might fit the bill....who knows.

Thanks for the input.....Come on Oct30!!!!!:drumroll:

PS: I know this is the Lurch thread but its all good :nono:


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

I went beach cruising today.


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

watermonkey said:


> All fendered up and ready for muck. Vail Pass.


That pic gives me warm fuzzy feelings!


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Hackinator said:


> View attachment 927660
> 
> 
> I went beach cruising today.


Nice pic!


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

skywardx said:


> Im in the same boat as you are waiting for the boat....:crazy: That is to say Im waiting on the Nighttrain as well and going 1x asap. Already have the 30tnw and have been kicking around the idea of trying a narrower Q 170 crank. I noticed Trek is using the Raceface Ride on the Farley 6 albeit a 2x10 setup using 3.8 tires....might be another option to consider.
> 
> Your thinking on the push to drive us into buying the newer setups is a good point. Why would you point out that existing 170mm offerings in cranks going with a 1x setup(assuming they do in fact work in this case) would be an option dealing with 190mm rear spacings Q-factor and chainline, when you offer newer products that might fit the bill....who knows.
> 
> ...


Using a 100mm spindle crank on a 190mm old rear end theoretically works for a 1x setup with a flipped NW ring in the outboard position for chai line and shifting wise. Also for tire clearance for a full 5" tire.

The only thing we don't know is if a 200q (ride/turbine 104bcd) or 202q (turbine conch) will clear the chain stays and offer sufficient heel clearance. This will be unique to each frame model.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

*The fungus among us.*









We've had some exceptionally large mushrooms this year.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Is anyone running a Bluto on their Lurch? So far my only "complaint" with the bike is fork flex on sweeping down hill runs.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

> Is anyone running a Bluto on their Lurch? So far my only "complaint" with the bike is fork flex on sweeping down hill runs.


I have a Bluto on the way...

Fork flex, seriously, how can you even tell with those big fat tires?

I'm no lightweight and I can't feel any flex, though depending on tyire pressure I can get a fair amount of vague steering and some wallowing.

Now that I'm running the Floaters I really like the ride, it's pretty quick handling for a fatty, 760mm riser bars, 45mm stem mostly slammed, wheel all the way forward, 18" frame.

Once I get the Bluto installed, then we'll see about how fast I can go downhill


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> I have a Bluto on the way...
> 
> Fork flex, seriously, how can you even tell with those big fat tires?
> 
> I'm no lightweight and I can't feel any flex, though depending on tyre pressure I can get a fair amount of vague steering and some wallowing.


I can flex the fork quite a bit if i push the bike against a locked front brake. In actual riding conditions i have never noticed any "wandering" that I couldn't attribute to the soft tires.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Please keep us posted on what you think of the Bluto. Yeah...downhill in sweeping turns, especially when breaking I can feel the flex and the break starts to rub. I'm far from an expert in this stuff, I'm guessing fork flex, or possibly the wheel/hub weakness??


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Ralph said:


> Please keep us posted on what you think of the Bluto. Yeah...downhill in sweeping turns, especially when breaking I can feel the flex and the break starts to rub. I'm far from an expert in this stuff, I'm guessing fork flex, or possibly the wheel/hub weakness??


Brake rub? You might want to check your wheel and see if the QR is tight.

I don't have any pad rub no matter how hard I ride the bike, and I run a fairly tight tolerance.

It's a pretty beefy fork, even when I jump it doesn't seem flexy. I'd expect that the Bluto will flex more, but some of that stress will be taken up in the fork action.

I have some cranks on order too, I think they're X5, I'm gonna check them out for chain line, possibly go to a 1 x 10, though I have to lose my granny gear which works great for creeping slimy stuff. I have an extra 40t and a NW 30t, already have the Type 2, so it'd be an easy fix.

Anyone want to trade a fresh E Thirteen 40t red for a comparable 42t?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

I can get the front brake to rub veeeery little on my driveway, standing and mashing and moving the bike side to side like a BMXer. But trail riding I cant tell. Bluto would be sick on this bike fo sho. Would like too see pics!


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Thanks. I had my LBS (who assembled the bike for me) double check it. He agrees it's the fork. He also thinks the Lurch is a good value. 

Converted mine to 1x. Running 30t N/W with 11-40. Rode 12 miles Sunday with 2k of climbing and no problems rolling over anything.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

rex615 said:


> I can flex the fork quite a bit if i push the bike against a locked front brake. In actual riding conditions i have never noticed any "wandering" that I couldn't attribute to the soft tires.


a bluto will ensure WAY more flex than you could ever hope for.....

rog


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My fork is flexy. I get brake rub pretty bad when cornering hard. I most notice it on pavement 20-30 mph. One reason I've been hoping for a 150mm carbon fork.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Anyone found a decent rear rack? I need a spot for lunch and extra layers. I can't use a frame bag because I use both water bottle holders.


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## jmnxtd (Nov 7, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> My fork is flexy. I get brake rub pretty bad when cornering hard. I most notice it on pavement 20-30 mph. One reason I've been hoping for a 150mm carbon fork.


Check out the new framed bikes 150mm carbon fork. It is available soon and should be pretty reasonable. Plus it should fit the lurch fine.

Alaskan Carbon Fork | Framed Bikes


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Crank update: FSA Comet 100mm BB, 36/22

Installed these last night, they are significantly narrower than the stock cranks, I used the stock 5mm spacers and wavy washer, had to use a smaller derailleur spacer:
- 5mm clearance between the chainstay and the 36t chainring
- Chainline is pretty good, better on the larger cogs than the stock cranks
- The chain is inboard of the chaninstay about 5mm
- Chain clearance is greater that 10mm for a 4" tire (Floater), might be good enough for a 5" tire.
- Shifting is great in all gears


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Bluto Fit Update:

I got my Bluto yesterday, we did a mock up to check fit. Using the stock race, the fork hit the downtube on both legs, when we spaced the race ~5mm up the fork, the air side cleared, but the lock out knob still hit the frame, when we spaced the race 10mm we cleared on both sides with a few mm to spare.

So, a local guy is going to machine a race for me that has 10mm of extra height, then we'll reinstall and see how it goes.

I got the 80mm Bluto knowing that I'd have to space the fork at least 5mm. Once I get a feel for how the increased sag rides, I might go to 100mm...

Hopefully I'll get the race this week 

Option two is to pick up an external cup headset, likely an angleset and see if it increase clearance sufficiently. I won't go this route unless I dislike the sag cuz that's getting pricey...for what is supposed to be an inexpensive bike


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Bluto Fit Update:
> 
> I got my Bluto yesterday, we did a mock up to check fit. Using the stock race, the fork hit the downtube on both legs, when we spaced the race ~5mm up the fork, the air side cleared, but the lock out knob still hit the frame, when we spaced the race 10mm we cleared on both sides with a few mm to spare.
> 
> So, a local guy is going to machine a race for me that has 10mm of extra height, then we'll reinstall and see how it goes.


Please let us know how things go with this, Nurse Ben. I'm wanting to put a Bluto on my Lurch and have been looking into the options. Would it be possible, rather than having a race machined with 10mm of height, to just use 10mm of spacers? Not ideal, obviously.

Also, I was browsing Bikesdirect today and ran into this: Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM ROckshox Bluto Equipped

Bikesdirect is making a Lurch that is Bluto ready. It has a downtube that is angled so the Bluto can clear it. Kind of wish I would have known this because I would have held off on purchasing the steel forked Lurch.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Any spacers would need to be part of the race or it would not be stable.

It'll work, don't sweat it, there are races made by King and others that will likely work, also the angleset will work.

The thing that folks aren't seeing is that adding a 120mm Bluto to a Lurch is gonna wack out the geometry something fierce, so an angleset may be necessary anywho.

There will always be something new and better, it's how the industry rolls. People who buy the Lurch with a Bluto this year will bemoan not waiting another year for the full suspension aluminum Lurch with the Pike


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> There will always be something new and better, it's how the industry rolls. People who buy the Lurch with a Bluto this year will bemoan not waiting another year for the full suspension aluminum Lurch with the Pike


Great reminder. I've been having so much fun with my fatbike that I have to remind myself sometimes to calm down on the tweaker tendency and just enjoy the ride.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Anyone found a decent rear rack? I need a spot for lunch and extra layers. I can't use a frame bag because I use both water bottle holders.


I just got one of those cheap ($20) Bell clamp on racks for now. It stays put and doubles as a partial fender.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> , they are significantly narrower than the stock cranks,


Cheers, that looks like very little loss in tire clearance.

Have you measured the new Q factor?


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Nurse Ben...what size is your bike?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

My Lurch is an 18", I'm 6', 32" inseam. I like having a tighter geometry, the long bar and short stem, combined with he short wheelbase really spice up the ride. The stock seatpost is plenty long enough.

I like the Lurch because it's not a fancy bike, I don't have much invested, but it's good enough that I don't feel like it holds me back. Then when I want to throw some different tires or a narrower crank on the bike, it's not a big deal.

I could afford to buy as much bike as I wanted, a Bucksaw with the full tilt boogie, but somehow making this forty pound bike fly is just as much fun 

Heading to Green Dot tonight, gotta' wear down my puppy:


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> My Lurch is an 18", I'm 6', 32" inseam. I like having a tighter geometry, the long bar and short stem, combined with he short wheelbase really spice up the ride. The stock seatpost is plenty long enough.
> 
> I like the Lurch because it's not a fancy bike, I don't have much invested, but it's good enough that I don't feel like it holds me back. Then when I want to throw some different tires or a narrower crank on the bike, it's not a big deal.
> 
> ...


I was curious because I've got the 20" and think the Bluto might clear the tube. Are you thinking of switching tires? Rode with the fast guys last night. Had some tire slide on sharp turns, thinking I want something with more aggressive side lugs.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I suppose frame size could make some difference, but I doubt you will make up all 10mm.

I didn't measure the Q before and after, what does the stock crank run?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> I suppose frame size could make some difference, but I doubt you will make up all 10mm.
> 
> I didn't measure the Q before and after, what does the stock crank run?


232 mm per *spovegas *fine work.



spovegas said:


> View attachment 923037
> 
> 
> View attachment 923038


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

First Look ? FSA Comet Fatbike Crank | FAT-BIKE.COM

Looks like 209mm, so a savings of 13mm, 1/4" plus per side, also lost some weight in the process


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

The qr on my front tire loosened up. I initiat tightened it with the force of a Jedi, and after a few rides it just gave. Luckily I noticed it when I was off the bike.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Lurch on Indy*








Got a chance to play in the snow again today. I'm really impressed with the traction of the snowshoes. Forgot my gauge, but think I was down around 5 psi, no burps on the split-tube setup. What a hoot.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> Bluto Fit Update:
> 
> I got my Bluto yesterday, we did a mock up to check fit. Using the stock race, the fork hit the downtube on both legs, when we spaced the race ~5mm up the fork, the air side cleared, but the lock out knob still hit the frame, when we spaced the race 10mm we cleared on both sides with a few mm to spare.
> 
> ...


IF.....I'm reading the specs right on the Chris King site, an external lower would add 14.2 mm of lower stack height. That should do it.....shouldn't it?


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

EDIT: My bad, it looks like this may not be the right one...

Anglset is still an option, but first I'm waiting on the custom race.

With the CK cup, will it only work with a CK headset? I supposes that could be less $$ than an Angelset, though the Angleset has another neat property


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Looks like 209mm, so a savings of 13mm, 1/4" plus per side, also lost some weight in the process


That is really good. I just did a quick measurement of the Boris X7 and if I did it right, I got 206mm and that bike has a 170mm rear hub.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

looks like you bought a frame size too small. layback post (a lot of it showing), and a long stem............

mmmmm, snow......

rog


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got some specialized tubes. Need to stretch them out quite a bit but if they work they'll shave 362g per wheel. Got a ton of green stuff coming for the bike. Loving it so far.

Paint on the frame is soft and I had a squeak in the bb develop but a small amount of grease fixed it.


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> had to use a smaller derailleur spacer...
> View attachment 928035
> 
> View attachment 928036


Did you buy or make the new derailleur spacer?


----------



## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Pic from the other day


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

On my Lurch, the cables are rubbing the head tube so much that the clear coat is coming off the frame. Looking at the cables, they don't appear to be too long, so trimming them down might make them too short. I've got some electrical tape on the head tube for the moment, but anyone else had this problem?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Barheet said:


> On my Lurch, the cables are rubbing the head tube so much that the clear coat is coming off the frame. Looking at the cables, they don't appear to be too long, so trimming them down might make them too short. I've got some electrical tape on the head tube for the moment, but anyone else had this problem?


One possible solution: Clear tape that can be applied to the frame to protect it. There is a special tape somtimes called "helicopter tape" or "racers tape" that works very well.

Bike shops usually have something similar and might sell you a small amount.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Hackinator said:


> Did you buy or make the new derailleur spacer?


My buddy had different thicknesses, so this is ~10mm, the other was closer to 20mm.

I rode the bike last night with the Comets and it shifted no different than stock, totally loving the reduced Q, it was very obvious as I felt more compact, less tire strike, fewer scratches from bushes.

It's looks like I could even go narrower, less the 5mm spacers on both side, if I swapped the 36t outer for a 32t. I doubt I'll make the change as I still want to run 5" tires.

So as I understand it, this crank is designed for 177mm spacing, right? And the 190mm spacing is designed for running 5" tires wihout offset...


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

rex615 said:


> One possible solution: Clear tape that can be applied to the frame to protect it. There is a special tape somtimes called "helicopter tape" or "racers tape" that works very well.
> 
> Bike shops usually have something similar and might sell you a small amount.


So are you saying you don't have the same problem?


----------



## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Doesn't matter what frame you have , if you don't protect the area from cable rub, you'll end up with what you have described


Pedaling


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Barheet said:


> So are you saying you don't have the same problem?


I haven't noticed it but then I really haven't looked for it either. I could check when I get home tonight.

My frame is 22" so maybe the cables are in a slightly different position.

I guess it isn't really something that i really worry about.


----------



## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Cable rub- 
That front brake cable can be easily rerouted by removing the grip, remove the front brake lever and reroute the cable so that it comes out from under the fork. It will naturally curve away from the headtube. Its real easy but I wish I did it on day one.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Just reroute the cable. I did mine without thinking when I changed bars at the initial build. You can put a clear protective tape on the paint.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sven98 said:


> Cable rub-
> That front brake cable can be easily rerouted by removing the grip, remove the front brake lever and reroute the cable so that it comes out from under the fork. It will naturally curve away from the headtube. Its real easy but I wish I did it on day one.





Nurse Ben said:


> Just reroute the cable. I did mine without thinking when I changed bars at the initial build. You can put a clear protective tape on the paint.


I just thought of something. I always run my front brake on the right (like a Brit) so that may explain why i haven't noticed cable rub. I changed the cable over when I first assembled the bike.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Barheet said:


> So are you saying you don't have the same problem?











Don't know if this helps illustrate my situation, but as you can see (OK, pic is not so good) but my cable barely touch the frame.

I am not sure if it because of the different frame size or because I run my front brake on the left side.

Hope you figure something out for your circumstance.

cheers


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

this whole cable rubbing frame madness is really something else.

you nancys should all be riding ti.......

rog


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> rubbing


twss


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Green stuff is starting to roll in. Carbon seatpost and fizik test seat.. made a huge difference in ride comfort. Can't wait to get my carbon bar and install my grips.


----------



## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Green stuff is starting to roll in. Carbon seatpost and fizik test seat.. made a huge difference in ride comfort. Can't wait to get my carbon bar and install my grips.


Will carbon bars and seatpost really make a big difference? Ive always had aluminum (expect road bike). I was thinking of investing in some, but I was unsure.


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Will carbon bars and seatpost really make a big difference? Ive always had aluminum (expect road bike). I was thinking of investing in some, but I was unsure.


In my experience, they do dampen annoying vibrations, particularly important on a road bike with skinny high pressure tires.
On a fatbike that might not be as necessary, but just the bling factor and the "coolness" would justify it.

Also, they are generally lighter and in really cold weather a carbon bar doesn't feel as cold because it isn't as effective a heat sink as aluminium.


----------



## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

rex615 said:


> Also, they are generally lighter and in really cold weather a carbon bar doesn't feel as cold because it isn't as effective a heat sink as aluminium.


Agreed. That is why I picked up foam grips for my Fatboy. SRAM makes a locking set or the Ritchey WCS are nice. I like the cushion that comes from the foam grips, but got them for their insulating properties as well.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

On the Bluto fit thing...

We canned the custom race idea, then tried to find a lower external cup to fit the 56mm HT, but the only one that exists (and will work) is part of an Angleset, so a Cane Creek +5/-5 deg is on the way. The stack may be excessive, fortunately I have a smaller frame, so I shoudl be rolling some time next week.


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> We canned the custom race idea, then tried to find a lower external cup to fit the 56mm HT, but the only one that exists (and will work) is part of an Angleset, so a Cane Creek +5/-5 deg is on the way.


Keep us posted on the progress. I would appreciate seeing how it works out.


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

newmarketrog said:


> this whole cable rubbing frame madness is really something else.
> 
> you nancys should all be riding ti.......
> 
> rog


Dear Rog,

The Lurch is a steel frame. Steel rusts. Thus the need for paint.

Love,

Nancy


----------



## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Qr handle bent today. Now what?


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> Qr handle bent today. Now what?


The needle can be disassembled and the handle changed if you can find one with the same diameter hole.

The needle threads into the round piece in the handle. You have to remove the set screw in the side first.


----------



## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

rex615 said:


> The needle can be disassembled and the handle changed if you can find one with the same diameter hole.
> 
> The needle threads into the round piece in the handle. You have to remove the set screw in the side first.


Thanks. I'm going to see what options I can find...are these qr's budget-type?


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> Thanks. I'm going to see what options I can find...are these qr's budget-type?


I don't know if they are budget or not, they look about par with what comes on bikes these days unless you get really good hubs. Shimano QR's seem a bit better to me.

I like to use the term coined by Sheldon Brown "boutique" QRs as opposed to the old school type with the internal cam.

Those skeletonized handles are supposed to save weight but they are more fragile. I have bent several on other bikes, particularly on seat clamps. They do look high tech.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> On the Bluto fit thing...
> 
> We canned the custom race idea, then tried to find a lower external cup to fit the 56mm HT, but the only one that exists (and will work) is part of an Angleset, so a Cane Creek +5/-5 deg is on the way. The stack may be excessive, fortunately I have a smaller frame, so I shoudl be rolling some time next week.


Why not this? Chris King NoThreadSet Ec Taper Headset > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA
I was thinking about getting this anyway, well, because its a Chris King headset. Is the bore not deep enough? Granted, the angleset is cool and on my radar too.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

rex615 said:


> In my experience, they do dampen annoying vibrations, particularly important on a road bike with skinny high pressure tires.
> On a fatbike that might not be as necessary, but just the bling factor and the "coolness" would justify it.
> 
> Also, they are generally lighter and in really cold weather a carbon bar doesn't feel as cold because it isn't as effective a heat sink as aluminium.


Actually the humming that the tires develop is dampened. It made a huge difference. You'll most notice it on hardpack or on the road, but it decreases hand and wrist pain and let's me ride for longer. Worth the $30 they cost me for sure.

I'm having a hard time stretching the 3.0 tubes. They're uneven in thickness so the bead won't pop on one side. Been trying at 20psi, didn't want to go any higher and blow out my duct tape rim strip

Any tips?


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Don't worry about stretching the tube, just install it, inflate it, and go ride.

I have used 2.2-2.4 tubes in fatties and never had a problem. I`ve.used Maxxis welterweight, 300gms, going for dh light q tubes this time, add a little sealant.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My only worry is that the bead isn't seating completely. The tire is pretty out of round and its quite noticeable while riding


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> Qr handle bent today. Now what?


Mine was bent out of the box. BD sent me a nice replacement from Hope! Really nice. I posted a picture a few pages back.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

msedbaue said:


> Mine was bent out of the box. BD sent me a nice replacement from Hope! Really nice. I posted a picture a few pages back.


I wrote to bd immediately after it happened, and the response from Larry was to find one at an lbs, since they're all out.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> I wrote to bd immediately after it happened, and the response from Larry was to find one at an lbs, since they're all out.


That stinks! I had a similar response when one of my crank arm bolts was stripped. I had to drill it and use and easy out to remove it. He pretty much said, bummer dude, bring it to a machine shop.

This is the one they sent me. It is really high quality.

http://www.amazon.com/Hope-Fatsno-Skewer-190mm-Red/dp/B00K3PQ4FW


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Hope he offered to pay for it..


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I finally got the tire to seat with the lighter tube. Used water mixed with dish soap for lube and let the tube stretch overnight in the tire/wheel without the beads popped at 25 psi. Let the air out, lubed the beads and reassembled and inflated. Beads popped at 20psi after it sat for a minute or so.

My wife and i went on a short ride today (8mi or so) and I had the lighter tube in front and the carbon bars. Made a huge difference.


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

15 miles on the Milwaukee River trails. Loving the alloy pedals with traction pins and having the tires inflated to 10psi.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Utahbikemike said:


> Hope he offered to pay for it..


Nope. Just a pat on the back and some wise words.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Anyone else having this issue? It looks like it's adhered to the frame w gum.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Sparkitekt said:


> Anyone else having this issue? It looks like it's adhered to the frame w gum.


I just checked mine and its fine. Housing stops in these locations are notorious for getting bent like this, especially when loading onto a bike rack. Your's looks as if it has been bent in, after fabrication and prior to painting. QC issue, and worth pursuing.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

watermonkey said:


> I just checked mine and its fine. Housing stops in these locations are notorious for getting bent like this, especially when loading onto a bike rack. Your's looks as if it has been bent in, after fabrication and prior to painting. QC issue, and worth pursuing.


Good eye, watermonkey! I was mounting the bike on a rack, but used the seat tube as a mounting point, rather than the top tube. Let's see what bd's willing to do for me...


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

What's everyone's opinion of the Vee Snowshoes? What tire would you replace it with? I'm still playing with various PSI, but experience lots of washouts in loose gravel.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Ralph said:


> What's everyone's opinion of the Vee Snowshoes? What tire would you replace it with? I'm still playing with various PSI, but experience lots of washouts in loose gravel.


The Snowshoes are big and fat, probably good for snow and sand, but not that great for anything else. I have ridden a lot of fat tires, best ones for multiple surfaces One One Floaters, maybe Nates if you like Surly casings.

I have some Vee Rubber Missions I'd sell cheap if you want them.

I got some Floaters after talking with Shiggy, and after having ridden them for a couple weeks, I think they are a great fat bike tires, they actually make a fat ride like a normal bike 

On the Bluto front: My Angleset has arrived, today at lunch it gets installed, then "fingers crossed" I will be riding it tonight, yeah!


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I really like the Snowshoes. They do seem to washout sometimes in really loose gravel, but what tire doesn't? They have far superior traction compared to the most aggressive tires I have used on my 29er, the Kenda Nevegal. The Snowshoes have good traction in all terrain that I have ridden so far...which is everything but snow and ice.


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> The Snowshoes are big and fat, probably good for snow and sand, but not that great for anything else. I have ridden a lot of fat tires, best ones for multiple surfaces One One Floaters, maybe Nates if you like Surly casings.
> 
> I have some Vee Rubber Missions I'd sell cheap if you want them.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nurse Ben. I've checked out the On-one. Great price compared to everything else. Too bad there's not a "tire" store where you could actually look at the various tires.

I sent an email to BD this morning stating I was happy with my purchase but disappointed they didn't release any info on a Bluto Lurch. Surprising since they usually have new product teaser posts on Facebook. My question was if they were going to offer a Bluto fork for purchase. I also asked for a list of parts to add a Bluto.

Last question: Any idea of rim weight? I'm thinking of buying either the Sun Ringle Mulefut 830g or the Nextie carbon 650g but don't want to spend the $$ if there's not a big weight difference.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Snowshoe love*

I've rode the stock Lurch Snowshoes so far on desert sandstone, greasy riverbed baby head rocks, leaf strewn buffed out trails, muddy and rooty trails, concrete skate parks, pump tracks, basalt outcrops, deep sand, gravel, cow sh*t, and yes, even on ice and snow. So far, they have done everything I've asked them to and then some with amazing traction, at psi's from 4-13. I regularly ride no handed at all psi's to rest my lower back, meaning....very little self steer. FYI - these are set up split-tube tubeless, may be a factor vs. tubed setups. They're also one of the lighter fat tires out there. I love em, and can't justify spending $$$ on anything else until they're trashed. YFBMMV.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Ahhhh! The hub ends are not convertible from QR to thru axle, now what???

Did anyone have different hubs adaptors included in their packaging?

The way they come, the QR adaptor pulls out from the hub ends, the hubs ends are dimensioned for the Maxle, but then I need spacers to make up the ~10mm or so gap that remains. It looks like I need different hubs ends....


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Bummer! I did not get any other adapters with my front hub. I just assumed, apparently incorrectly, that is was the correct fit. Sorry Nurse Ben, that truly sucks. So...you need the endcaps for the 201-SB-15 to make this work? I've been looking for you, and haven't found them on-line yet.


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> On the Bluto front: My Angleset has arrived, today at lunch it gets installed, then "fingers crossed" I will be riding it tonight, yeah!


Any update on the Cane Creek Angleset and Bluto fork?


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Hackinator said:


> Any update on the Cane Creek Angleset and Bluto fork?


The Cane Creek Angleset fit fine, I believe it is a 56mm cup size. I got the +0.5deg, you can get a number of different lower cups for $20 each if you want more or less slack. The cup alone will not work with anything but an Angleset. I was not able to find a lower cup that would work outside of what is available with the Angleset...

I'm running zero degree now with the stock fork. The stack at the bottom is +10mm, the top stack is a little less, the clearance should be enough, but I didn't check it as I was on hold waiting for an answer on the thru axle hub ends.

I have an email and call into Novatec in California, and this is the email I got from BikeDirect:

"Hello,

I am sorry but it sounds like the spacers were not included in the parts box with your bike.

We have these spacers on order and as soon as they arrive I will send you out a set.

Best regards,

Larry @ Bikes Direct"


----------



## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Anyone think this would work on their Lurch?

Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

msedbaue said:


> Anyone think this would work on their Lurch?
> 
> Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life


Without building up the middle channel with foam, I found it impossible, not just difficult, but impossible, to get the beads to seat - the gap is just too big on these weinmann rims with the stock snowshoes. And that was using the strap method and a big a*s compressor that pushes alot of air. Sill foam and split tube and loving every mile. YFBMMV.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I bought some Q Tubes 26 x 2.4-2.75, they are listed as Freeride/DH tubes, they have a removeable core, they weigh 250gm.

I added a full scoop of Stans using a syringe. They filled up nicely, no issues at all, I rode them today with pressures between 8-12 psi.

Q Tube weight with Stans was 300gm.

The stock tubes weigh just over 600gms!

The difference in ride was very noticeable, especially when starting from a stop and making low speed transitions.

I also tried to make my tires (Floaters) tubeless and it was a no go. I imagine it is possible, but with a decent 300gm sealant filled tube, why bother.

A tubeless set up, including tape, valve, and four scoops of sealant is going to ~150gms, so for a 150gm savings you get: a real PITA to fix on the trail, a tire that is more prone to roll off flats, more effort setting up your wheels, and it's a pain to swap tires.

300gms with a cup of sealant


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> I bought some Q Tubes 26 x 2.4-2.75, they are listed as Freeride/DH tubes, they have a removeable core, they weigh 250gm.
> 
> I added a full scoop of Stans using a syringe. They filled up nicely, no issues at all, I rode them today with pressures between 8-12 psi.
> 
> ...


bingo!

rog


----------



## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

Four rides in and loving my Lurch! I'm 6'3" with long legs and the 22" frame fits great. I've put in five solid rides on it and have been having a ball. It definitely doesn't replace my Intense Spider Comp trail bike for some of the climbing/descending that we have here in Durango, CO but it sure does a lot of things well, and fun! I put 780mm pro taper bars on it w/ a 75mm stem and also went ghetto tubeless with reflective yellow rim tape and 24x2.5 QBP split tubes, 6oz of Stans ea. Cut 300g/tire and improved tire feel. Tubeless wasn't TOO bad although I did manage to blow the back wheel of the rim two times at 30psi when seating the bead.  Third time was the charm. I didn't build up the center. I just removed the valve core to allow more air in from the compressor and put a 29" tube around the OD of the tire to help hold the bead snug and it pumped right up.

On two of my rides on the Lurch it was a far superior choice over my Spider. One was navigating local trails that had been washed out by 2.5 inches of rain with deep trenches in them and all rutted out. The traction and rollover of the big tires made it way easier than my 29x2.4 Ardent's even. The other ride was just today and it was through some "badlands" in Farmington, NM which included several miles of soft deep sand, sandy washes, and dry sandy river beds. It was Pinon Mesa trail. I absolutely couldn't believe that I was able to ride my bike up, over, and through the stuff I did today. It was so ridiculously easy it felt like I was cheating. I saw several spots where others had to push their bikes through the sand and I could hardly tell I was in it! Even though my Lurch comes in right at 37lbs as it sits (11lbs more than my trail bike) it is a hoot to ride! Enough with the words here are a couple pics from today.

Oh, BTW, the bike is blue, red, yellow, and white for the Colorado State flag. Hoping to add a little more red as upgrades allow. I also have to put a dropper on this thing. I've been ruined on that now...





















I also took a trip to the moon to see how the riding was there. It was surprisingly great:


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Droppers are nice, but doing the fatty is such a different pace, it just doesn't seem necessary, it's good to do a little flower smelling once in a while 

If you like the wide bar/short stem thing, try a 60mm or even shorter; I'm running a 45mm


----------



## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

I'm not sure if it's my technique or body physiology but even at 75mm the handling gets quite squirrely on climbs. I've got a 60mm stem but I sacrifice too much stability when I use it. (Meaning it causes me to consistently not clear stuff I normally could.)

With the dropper I concur in some regards (trying to enjoy the ride, not setting KOM's) but there's an element of pure control and safety that takes joy away from the ride when the trail gets so steep that you literally cannot stop. If my seat post is fully extended for my 36" inseam it begins to feel quite unsafe. So as it is now there are mandatory "dropper stops" where I do the good old fashioned dismount, drop the seat with the QR then descend. Long story short, I hear ya but a dropper is on my short list.


----------



## nlambert (Oct 10, 2014)

I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.


----------



## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Took a little detour from my normal commute route to work.

Doing the Lurch Lambeau Leap!!


----------



## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

^^^righteous!!!^^^


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

nlambert said:


> I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.


Lube the little cam block on the clamp QR. that will help increase the clamping force and keep you from bending the handle.


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> Doing the Lurch Lambeau Leap!!
> View attachment 930118


Great photo.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

nlambert said:


> I got my Lurch about a week and a half ago and so far my main complaint is the seat post clamp. I can not manage to get it tight enough. That and the cables rub the head tube but that was easiliy fixed with some good tape.


I'm not happy with the seat clamp either. It helped to clean whatever grease was in the seat tube out, but the post still migrates down. I haven't been able to find a decent replacement in a 29.8mm size, but from doing some searches, it sounds like most people needing a specific 29.8mm clamp just size up to a 30.0 without issue, frame paint taking up the last .2mm from tubing o.d. specs. I've got Salsa flip-lock's on my other bikes and never have to think about them. In fact, they clamp tight enough to hinder operation of a KS dropper if I'm not careful. I'll see if I can find one in town tomorrow and report back on fit and function.


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> I'm not happy with the seat clamp either. It helped to clean whatever grease was in the seat tube out, but the post still migrates down. I haven't been able to find a decent replacement in a 29.8mm size


I experienced the same issue with the stock seatpost clamp. I replaced it with a Thomson. Though it isn't a quick release, it is 29.8mm and has never slipped.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got my cheap carbon and green stuff installed. Much love for this thing.

Also, this picture illustrates why getting rid of the fatbike tubes saves like 360g per wheel. The small tube is a 29er 2-3" tube.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

How does it ride with the 29 3" tubes?? Nice looking carbon, feel any different?


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Got my Lurch mods done last week. I replaced the stock crank with a Surly Moonlander I scored through my old LBS who had one as a takeoff that he discounted to me. I omitted the 2.5mm crank side spacer. because of that I had to the chamfer the splines slightly on inside of the crank arm to preload the bearing. This reduced the Q to 110mm which is 26mm less than I measured on the stock crank. It feels much better! The Moon lander crank is a tad lighter than the stock crank. The chain clearance in granny gear is 13mm to the tire.



I installed O-Eight sealed cartridge bearing BMX pedals($44). Very low profile and large platform. Works good wearing Chuck Taylors!

From the spare parts box. I fished out a well broken in Brooks B-17 saddle, a forgotten Jandd frame bag along with some WTB barends and grips from around 1986. I also shortened the bars to 620mm which is more in line with all my other bikes. Increases steering effort but not enough to affect the handling adversely for me.

I'm happy with everything else .Total out of pocket cost was just under $250.


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## jimmac23 (Oct 27, 2013)

*Help with 170 mm crank arms*

Hi, I would like to put 170mm crank arms on my Lurch. Not interested in new bb or chainrings. Can someone steer me in the right direction???

Jim


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> How does it ride with the 29 3" tubes?? Nice looking carbon, feel any different?


Thanks. The gyroscopic effect of the wheels was reduced quite a bit which made the bike feel more nimble but less stable at super slow speeds. I like the change as the bike is easier to ride at higher speeds.

If you've never ridden carbon seatposts/handle bars I wouldn't ever try. You'll be ruined and only want to ride them from here on out.

This bar is a flat 720mm that cost me $30 shipped but took a month to get here. Compared to my enve flat 740 bar on my xc bike, the cheap one weighs 40 grams more, is more flexy and isn't finished as well. It's a great fit for the lurch.

The seat post is similar, in flex and carbon quality. Great fit for the lurch, but it took 3 weeks to get. I definitely recommend both.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Forgot to say, switching the saddle and seat post saved 214 grams, handle bars saved 100 grams and tubes saved 340 grams per wheel (680 total). Saved a few lbs for $60 in carbon, $40 seat and $16 in tubes. Overall very happy.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Forgot to say, switching the saddle and seat post saved 214 grams, handle bars saved 100 grams and tubes saved 340 grams per wheel (680 total). Saved a few lbs for $60 in carbon, $40 seat and $16 in tubes. Overall very happy.


Thanks for the info! I may have to try the smaller tubes!

I forgot to say, I have some on the way as well! Im going with seatpost, handlebars and stem!


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Mello Yello, now... CARBONATED!









Got my 'Dozers mounted...









And added some flashy accents!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nice bar, what one is that one? I might have to switch to a riser bar, I can't get enough bar height where this fork is trimmed. Would rather do a carbon fork and leave the steerer on the long side.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Also forgot to mention, I'm not using the 29er tubes in my fatbike. I'm using 26x3" specialized normal tubes. That was just what was handy for pictures


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

It's a KORE bar, similar to this one:

Kore Carbon Rizer BAR 660mm | eBay

It came on a semi-complete GT Zaskar I bought a couple years ago and never finished off. Frame and all the carbon and NOS XTR goodies were too nice for me to ride! Finally decided it was time to get off the pot and do something with them, at least the carbon... So I've got the KORE bar, stem and I-Beam seatpost blinging out my Lurch.


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## hotrozz (Oct 24, 2010)

What are the flashy thingies in the photo's above?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I just bought a riser, incase my shorter stem isn't enough.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Lined the rim strips with silvery retro-reflective tape and wrapped some yellow reflecty stuff I had lying around on various parts of the frame.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

1111111111111


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> 1111111111111


Definitely


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

people still use bar ends? every once in a while a customer comes in and asks me where the bar ends are. i can't help but make a bit of a smart a$$ comment.

rog


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I've thought about putting a small set on with some ergo grips for long rides. They're cheap because they aren't fashionable.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> people still use bar ends? every once in a while a customer comes in and asks me where the bar ends are. i can't help but make a bit of a smart a$$ comment.


Haha! I love it when service-types make smart a$$ comments to me. Gives me a big smile when I go spend my money elsewhere.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)




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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

MaximumX said:


> Mello Yello, now... CARBONATED!
> 
> View attachment 930434


What size length stem is that? I can't tell by BD's spec sheet what size stems come from the factory.

Thanks!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Stock stem length is size dependant, my large came with a 110. (Have a 90 on order). Think xl is 120, med is 100. It lists it on bikes direct spec sheet


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## cousinit (Oct 12, 2014)

*Lovein the LURCH!*

:thumbsup:

Doesn't get much phat-er than Bend, Oregon!


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

In case you were wondering about the durability of the Lurch.... came up short on a double...

No damage.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> No damage.


If that was you casually strolling toward the bike when it settled, I'm impressed. I think I would've at least taken a knee after that one!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Oregon looks unreal nice.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

MaximumX said:


> If that was you casually strolling toward the bike when it settled, I'm impressed. I think I would've at least taken a knee after that one!


I went over and ended up on my feet. Yes. I am the one in red.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

cousinit said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> Doesn't get much phat-er than Bend, Oregon!


Fabulous photography.

Also love the Jones Loop.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

MaximumX said:


> Haha! I love it when service-types make smart a$$ comments to me. Gives me a big smile when I go spend my money elsewhere.


Nashbar, Performance, PricePoint and Bikes Direct love it too.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I've been running the Q-tubes 2.4-2.7 in my rear tire lately. It's only been a couple of weeks. However, the tube blew out over the weekend. I wasn't doing anything aggressive at the time, just rounding a gentle corner. I weigh 175 with full gear and CamelBak. With winter coming, I just put the stock tube back in. The front tire is holding air very well with the gorilla tape tubeless setup. 

I think the Q-tubes are too thin and too small to hold with the aggressive trails I ride, especially in the rear tire. But it may have just been a fluke.


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## skywardx (Aug 3, 2014)

Barheet said:


> I've been running the Q-tubes 2.4-2.7 in my rear tire lately. It's only been a couple of weeks. However, the tube blew out over the weekend. I wasn't doing anything aggressive at the time, just rounding a gentle corner. I weigh 175 with full gear and CamelBak. With winter coming, I just put the stock tube back in. The front tire is holding air very well with the gorilla tape tubeless setup.
> 
> I think the Q-tubes are too thin and too small to hold with the aggressive trails I ride, especially in the rear tire. But it may have just been a fluke.


Regular or Superlites?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I'v ealways run skinny tubes for fat tires and never had a failure. I have had a fat tube failure...

You don't need to run superlights, just get the DH/FR tube, it's 250gm, less than half of the stocker.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

That was pretty clean.

I'll bet you're glad those trees stayed out of your way :eekster:



msedbaue said:


> I went over and ended up on my feet. Yes. I am the one in red.


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## Homegrown77 (Sep 7, 2009)

Hey All,

Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.

Happy Riding!


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Homegrown77 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.
> 
> Happy Riding!


Thanks for the info. I sent an email asking if they will be offering a Bluto to those of us that purchased the original Lurch. No response. Do you have any info?


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

Ralph said:


> Thanks for the info. I sent an email asking if they will be offering a Bluto to those of us that purchased the original Lurch. No response. Do you have any info?


My guess is that they won't offer it as the original Lurch is not "designed" to accept a Bluto...so why would they offer an option for something that doesn't technically fit? AND...they would rather you just buy a new Bluto FS from them with the curved downtube and the bluto already installed.


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## Homegrown77 (Sep 7, 2009)

I would agree with neons97. I asked BD directly about buying a standard Lurch along with a Bluto when I asked about buying a rigid fork separate. The response did not mention the option of buying the Bluto. They are not a RS retailer so they may not have the rights to anyway.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

neons97 said:


> My guess is that they won't offer it as the original Lurch is not "designed" to accept a Bluto...so why would they offer an option for something that doesn't technically fit? AND...they would rather you just buy a new Bluto FS from them with the curved downtube and the bluto already installed.


Excellent points. I've got a large, I'd be willing to take the chance that it would fit.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I also have a large. I was planning on trying it this next summer.


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## cousinit (Oct 12, 2014)

thanx rex, yup, Jones loop, worth every penny!


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

skywardx said:


> Regular or Superlites?


Superlites.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Bluto Update:

I finally got a response from Novatec USA:

"Hi Ben,

You do need a conversion kit to change to 15mm or 20mm thru axles. You need to pull out the QR end caps (if they are to tight use the QR and push them out from the opposite side) and the new adapters push into the the hub. The cost for the adapters is $18.00"

Total cost for ends and shipping was $25.

I am going to ask BikesDirect to cover the cost as these parts were supposed to be included with the bike.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Here's the response I got from BD;

"Hello,
I am sorry but we were unaware that the factory did not included the spacers for the 15mm thru axle when we created the listing but we have spacers on the way and as soon as they arrive I will send you a pair and email you tracking.
Best regards,
Larry @ Bikes Direct"


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Here's the response I got from BD;
> 
> "Hello,
> I am sorry but we were unaware that the factory did not included the spacers for the 15mm thru axle when we created the listing but we have spacers on the way and as soon as they arrive I will send you a pair and email you tracking.
> ...


Does that mean they'll be sending them out to all Lurch purchasers?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

I honestly don't know. I just made my case that I have a Bluto I can't use right now, and this is the response I got. They are trying to make it right, and did refund for missing pedals, so I can't fault them in any way - they've responded to every issued I've had. 

Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but. Now a carbon fatty w/carbon hoops and Bluto is another story altogether.


----------



## AdventureRider (Jul 17, 2014)

With the gravity FS coming its over....motobecane just did what big names from specialized, trek, etc couldn't do. Pretty sure all eyes are on full suspension setups right now


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Same situation here, they refunded me the cost of purchasing the hub ends from Novatec.

I might have my ends this weekend, in which case I'll swap out for the Bluto, feedback to follow 

Unlike Watermonkey, I can't wait to get front suspension, fast trail riding with big tires is really bouncy, so a little give in the front end will allow me to run a higher tire pressure without getting hammered.

I have no doubt that in time I will have an FS fatty, I think it would be a great compliment to my "skinny" FS.

Right now I have my eyes on building a set of midfat 650b wheels for the Lurch, gonna saddle up with some Vee Rubber Trax Fatty 3.25"

For the techies out there: What are the odds that 190 rear hub spacing will be the norm for FS Fatties? Is 170mm more likely due the realities of building an FS fatty and only being able to squeeze in a 4" tire?


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Same situation here, they refunded me the cost of purchasing the hub ends from Novatec.
> 
> I might have my ends this weekend, in which case I'll swap out for the Bluto, feedback to follow
> 
> ...


Sorry if this is a dumb question....why 650B and not 26 or 29. I'm interested in purchasing a 29+ or maybe converting my Lurch and saving up for a carbon fatty.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Not a dumb question, it's the same question I had until someone pointed out that a taller or shorter tire diameter would change the ride height and or cause clearance issues. The 650b+ tires are about the same diameter as a 26 x 4" tire.



Ralph said:


> Sorry if this is a dumb question....why 650B and not 26 or 29. I'm interested in purchasing a 29+ or maybe converting my Lurch and saving up for a carbon fatty.


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> I honestly don't know. I just made my case that I have a Bluto I can't use right now, and this is the response I got. They are trying to make it right, and did refund for missing pedals, so I can't fault them in any way - they've responded to every issued I've had.
> 
> Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but. Now a carbon fatty w/carbon hoops and Bluto is another story altogether.


I'm now thinking the same thing. Instead of a Bluto, adding a stiffer carbon fork. Switching the tires to Nards or maybe, like NurseBen converting to 650B or 29+ and saving for a carbon fatty.


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Not a dumb question, it's the same question I had until someone pointed out that a taller or shorter tire diameter would change the ride height and or cause clearance issues. The 650b+ tires are about the same diameter as a 26 x 4" tire.


Thanks! I'll be watching for your posts on the changes.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got about 90 miles on it now, put a 90mm stem on it and that was the trick for fitment for me. I was able to ride for 22miles today, normally I could only do 15 or so before my knees would start killing me. This thing works great on loose stuff, like the fallen leaves this time of year.


----------



## singletrackmack (Oct 18, 2012)

Homegrown77 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> Thanks for everyone's contribution to a great thread. For those who are interested in buying the Lurch FS with the Bluto fork but still interested in running rigid sometimes (like me), I confirmed that BD will be selling Lurch forks by themselves starting in January. That sold me on waiting for the FS to ship in late January if it means that I can run rigid in the snow and run the Bluto the rest of the year. It's going to be a long winter until it arrives.
> 
> Happy Riding!


Looks like the lurch rigid fork is a 9mm QR, but the Lurch FS with Bluto is a 15mm. I am assuming you would need to run a 9mm with a conversion from 15mm to 9mm to run the rigid lurch fork. Do you know if they are going to make the sturgis/night train rigid forks available? I would much rather run a 15mm thru on the rigid than switch to a 9mm given my 240lb frame.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

watermonkey said:


> Luckily, the more miles I get on the Lurch, the less and less likely it is that I'm going to put suspension on it. The boss wanted to ride the Lurch this weekend, so the Yeti 575 came out of mothballs for a ride. All the suspension bob and messing with lockout levers and switching from climb to downhill mode, etc, etc, drove me nuts. I couldn't wait to get back on the Lurch. Even the downhill wasn't that much fun. When the suspension was most active, I felt disconnected from the trail, when it didn't, I lost traction because even 2.5 tires seems silly skinny these days. Going fat's ruined me for anything but.


Yup

Sussy bob, levers, stuff, more stuff, trail disconnect, boinga boinga.......

With the right air pressure you really shouldn't be getting "bounced around" on the rigid fatty. I sure don't with 9.5 front and 9.25 rear.

rog


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Got the Novatec hub ends, they were the wrong ones, so now I'm waiting on a response from Novatec...

I just ordered some Origin 8 fat bike parts to build a second wheel set: 190/150 hubs and 60mm rims. Once I get them built I'll report back with weights and such... and how they work with skinny 3-4" tires 

Hey UtahMike, that looks like Pipeline. Both my kids are the U. Do you ever ride at Antelope during the winters? I would think that'd be a great place to fat bike when the hills have snow/mud.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Again, that sucks. Was really hoping to see your Bluto'd up Lurch on here. Did you put the angleset in yet with the stock fork? Curious if slackening out the fork angle changed the ride much.


----------



## nocobandit (Oct 21, 2014)

So how tall are you and what's your inseam? Wanting to order but this info on sizing is a bit confusing huh?


ElectronJunk said:


> View attachment 921142
> 
> 
> Put 12 miles of single track on the Lurch yesterday after getting it all setup the way I like and tensioning the spokes, and torquing all fasteners. This thing actually weighs 3 pounds less than my Motobecane Fantom Elite DS, which was a welcome surprise. Glad I got the 20" frame as the standover height is actually 30.5" compared to Bikesdirect 32" listing. Rolls very easy and climbs sandy rocky hills with ease. Very Pleased.


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

nocobandit said:


> So how tall are you and what's your inseam? Wanting to order but this info on sizing is a bit confusing huh?


Roughly 31" inseam. Compared the BD specs to standover/top tube measurements on my other bikes and went with the 20. I tend to fall between med and large sizes and prefer to size up. Changed out the stem to 80mm adjustable with slight angle up. Fits perfectly.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Got the Novatec hub ends, they were the wrong ones, so now I'm waiting on a response from Novatec...
> 
> I just ordered some Origin 8 fat bike parts to build a second wheel set: 190/150 hubs and 60mm rims. Once I get them built I'll report back with weights and such... and how they work with skinny 3-4" tires
> 
> Hey UtahMike, that looks like Pipeline. Both my kids are the U. Do you ever ride at Antelope during the winters? I would think that'd be a great place to fat bike when the hills have snow/mud.


It's actually the foothills of the east side of alpine, the trails lead up to Lambert canyon.

I generally ride there as the trail is accessible riding my bike from my garage.

I also ride corner quite a bit, since its on my way home from work.

I've ridden pipeline, its up Millcreek canyon.

The trail by the U is Bonneville shoreline. I've ridden up there, also ridden bobsled which is quite fun.

Where is antelope? Like antelope island? I'm planning on riding Bonneville shoreline towards draper in the winter, or even Lambert depending on when I get a new house.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

watermonkey said:


> Again, that sucks. Was really hoping to see your Bluto'd up Lurch on here. Did you put the angleset in yet with the stock fork? Curious if slackening out the fork angle changed the ride much.


Yeah, I'm already running the Angleset at 0deg, the slack is just from the ~10mm extra stack on the bottom; another 10mm on top as well.

I really didn't notice the difference, it is a real quick bike (relatively speaking) with the narrower tires, short stem/wide bars, and the wheel all the way forward.

If I don't get a response about the hub ends by this weekend, I'm going to cut down the ends I received from Novatec and use them as "spacers", which should work well enough in the short term.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

What size frame you running, ben? Thinking about blutoing the lurch and building a Chinese fatty, them moving the bluto to the chinese frame.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

A new fun headset cap for the lurch!








Why not put the heavy one on top?!?


----------



## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Has anyone felt any sort of play from the fork under hard braking? It feels to me like there's like a slight pop in the headset when I hit the front brake too hard.


----------



## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

I had to REALLY crank down on the top cap to eliminate the slop. First try I didn't snug it down enough and could still feel the slop...


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I generally check all my nuts and bolts every other week or so to make sure nothing is working its way loose. It definitely sounds like you have a loose top cap. Make sure to also check rotor bolts and brake caliper bolts. You really don't want those coming loose.


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Barheet said:


> I generally check all my nuts and bolts every other week or so to make sure nothing is working its way loose. It definitely sounds like you have a loose top cap. Make sure to also check rotor bolts and brake caliper bolts. You really don't want those coming loose.


Good advice, but just to clarify. It doesn't mater if the top cap is loose as long as the stem clamp is tight. You can actually run without a top cap in place with no ill effects. The top cap and its bolt, preload the head bearing, the stem clamp locks it in place.

Check your brake caliper bolts like *Barheet *suggests, then loosen the stem clamp then tighten the top cap. You can rock the bike against a locked front brake to ensure you have taken all the play out of the head bearings. Then tighten the stem clamp.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

but don't forget to turn/rock your bars/stem side to side after loosening the stem clamping bolts to make sure that things are freed up before tightening top cap bolt down to bring things together.

rog


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Utahbikemike said:


> What size frame you running, ben? Thinking about blutoing the lurch and building a Chinese fatty, them moving the bluto to the chinese frame.


18"

Chinese fatty, as in a carbon frame?

I'm holding out for an FS fatty/crossover mid fat, two wheel sets for four season use, 2 x 10, sometyhing to compliment my FS daily driver.

Stil no word from Novatec, I'm tired of waiting, so I'll be cutting down the ends this weekend to use as "spacers". I also have some wheel parts coming a mid fat build, going for the Trax Fattys


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Yeah, as in carbon frame. I'm riding a 20" and hope shims won't be necessary to fit the lurch.

I'm definitely a 2x10 guy. Ran my xc bike 1x10 for 600 miles or so and found it wasn't for me.

I think a bluto'd carbon frame bike with 4" tires would be more than sufficent for what I ride 90% of the time. Would like to be as close to 25lbs as I could.


----------



## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)

hello Lurchers! Hit the " Buy Me Now but my wife might kill me" button the other night at 1am on BD for the lurch and can't wait to see it! Enroute and here in a few days! Got one of the last ones.. (yeah right) blk...22 inch. I wanted orange b/c I already have a blk knolly and green one too so I wanted more flare but no big deal... I think the pics you guy have up are great of every color. I'll have a paint party in the future for the frame if needed to fulfill my color fetish.

Sooo.. I savvy to a point but this might be a stupid question.. what size seat collar is it again? I want to buy a better one b/c of no slippage but getting a little confused on order. I'm about 260+ w/ gear and don't want to fool around with that part among other stuff.
Also is everyone tubeless? I was def going to go Tubeless but just might get some tubes and fill those puppies up with 8-10 oz of stans in the tubes for low low pressure.. some of you are doing that right? Sounds simpler to me. 

THanks guys! 
cheers!


----------



## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

Bizarro said:


> hello Lurchers! Hit the " Buy Me Now but my wife might kill me" button the other night at 1am on BD for the lurch and can't wait to see it! Enroute and here in a few days! Got one of the last ones.. (yeah right) blk...22 inch. I wanted orange b/c I already have a blk knolly and green one too so I wanted more flare but no big deal... I think the pics you guy have up are great of every color. I'll have a paint party in the future for the frame if needed to fulfill my color fetish.
> 
> Sooo.. I savvy to a point but this might be a stupid question.. what size seat collar is it again? I want to buy a better one b/c of no slippage but getting a little confused on order. I'm about 260+ w/ gear and don't want to fool around with that part among other stuff.
> Also is everyone tubeless? I was def going to go Tubeless but just might get some tubes and fill those puppies up with 8-10 oz of stans in the tubes for low low pressure.. some of you are doing that right? Sounds simpler to me.
> ...


If the stock seat collar slips, there's likelu something else wrong such as post or frame tolerance issues. But do it for bling/customization/save a few grams (literally).

Few have luck going tubeless with the weinnmann hl80 single wall rims as they are not designed to be tubeless. I've read ghetto tubeless is my painful. But full tubeless will require so much building up of the centre channel that any weight savings is eaten up by that material. Go ghetto or super light tube and stans.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I haven't had an issue with my seatpost.

Tubeless is garbage with these wheels, I tried for over 4 hrs to get them to seal and I couldn't get them. Just get some lightweight, normal 26" tubes and call it a day. Using specialized 26x2-3" tubes without sealant. No issues so far.


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

I did succeed w/ ghetto tubeless using QTubes 24x2.4-2.75. After adding 6oz of Stan's to each tire I still saved over 300g / tire. I did have to remove the valve core and inflate with a compressor as well as wrap a 29" tube around the tire to help it seat... But after doing those things it really was easy!


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## dakar2001 (Apr 14, 2008)

Saw this post and picked up some Specialized 26x2-3" tubes. Seemed to have worked. Tires appear narrower/taller, can't wait to try tomorrow. Thanks.



Utahbikemike said:


> I haven't had an issue with my seatpost.
> 
> Tubeless is garbage with these wheels, I tried for over 4 hrs to get them to seal and I couldn't get them. Just get some lightweight, normal 26" tubes and call it a day. Using specialized 26x2-3" tubes without sealant. No issues so far.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

You'll be happy. Saved 360 grams per wheel if I remember correctly. Super slow speed stability is compromised, but the bike becomes much more lively and handles much better at speed.

I have one underseat pack I use for both my bikes (29er xc, lurch) and I like being able to keep one spare tube for both bikes. 

I had a hard time getting the specalized tubes to get the beads to seat under 20psi. I inflated them overnight and let the tubes stretch, then deflated and lubed the beads with soapy water and re-inflated. They then seated correctly and I dropped the pressure to where I ride (8psi rear, 9-10 front) and haven't had any issues so far. No where else have I been able to drop 1.5lbs on a bike by replacing $18 worth of tubes.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

good on ya mike!

rog


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

We got Bluto!

What a difference, more control, more comfort, more fun 

Pics on Monday, mtbr doesn't likely phone.

5mm clearance between the lockout lever and the downtube running zero degree Cane Creek Angleset with external cup (~56mm id)


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> We got Bluto!
> 
> What a difference, more control, more comfort, more fun
> 
> ...


so this is your 1st ever front suspension fork as well? crazy but i thought these boingo forks have been available for like 25 years!

rog


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Not my first suspension by a long shot, but it's my first fatty suspension


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

So jealous..


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Bluto Yes!!!! Pics...now....what do I need to order??? Where did you order from. What size lurch you gotz???


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## Rockin (Apr 29, 2004)

Anyone with a 22" frame that can post up real world standover measurements? In between the 20" and the 22" - leaning toward the 22" as my ETT lengths are normally 24.5".


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Cane Creek 0deg/-1.5deg Angle Set (~56mm External Cup)
One One Floaters 26 x 4"
Bluto 80mm Fork
Lurch 18" Frame

I believe the combination of stack and fork extension decreased HA by ~ 1 deg, not enough to notice a reduction on agility, possibly a little more "floppiness" when climbing, but consider that I am running the wheel all the way forward in the drops outs.

Overall the ride is pretty durn good. I was able to clean a loose section of goatheads last night that has confounded me on my FS 650, I think it is more due to being on fat tires that have more surface area, but the fork helps me keep the wheel on the ground.

The night before I cleaned a steep double track that was a walk without the fork, this was a standing climb where I locked out the fork, I credit the slight give in the fork as allowing me to keep the bike on a straight track.

But it was on the down that having a fork on a fat bike really shines. I cooked a section of downhill, jumping rocks and roots the whole way, literally dropped my dogs like they were walking; one of them is usually able to keep pace. It makes me dream of having an FS fatty


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Just for perspective: My favorite hard tail of all time is the Kona Honzo/Taro, which I still have; the Taro is my wife's, she stole it  

When I get my KHS 6500 (650b FS) I was looking for a ful suspension that felt like my Honzo, but was more agile and more comfortable for long days in the saddle. The KHS does the job, but nothing rides like a hard tail.

My goal with the Lurch is to have a bike that crosses over for rides that are muddy, snowy, sandy, rocky, or where I just want a big bruiser bike. I plan to have two wheelsets, 26" x 80mm/4-5" Snowshoes and Floaters (current) and 27.5 x 45mm 3+" Fat Trax or ??? (in process).

I highly recomend adding a Bluto, fat tires are too bouncy unless the air pressure is very low, which then causes sluggish steering and less precise control when riding fast; "the drift". With the Bluto I can run higher tire pressures without suffering bounce AND my front end stays down vs skittering about.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Nicely done. Thanks for the all the feedback.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> I highly recomend adding a Bluto, fat tires are too bouncy unless the air pressure is very low, which then causes sluggish steering and less precise control when riding fast; "the drift". With the Bluto I can run higher tire pressures without suffering bounce AND my front end stays down vs skittering about.


Great review Ben, thanks.

What tire pressure are you running now and how much were you running before Bluto.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

"Too much bounce without a bluto" lol

rog


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

rex615 said:


> Great review Ben, thanks.
> 
> What tire pressure are you running now and how much were you running before Bluto.


I was running ~8psi for trail riding, but this was only to keep the bouncing to a minimum. Really, an even lower psi, 6-7# would have been better, but the steering just got too sluggish and the tires would feel to "drifty.

I prefer to run ~10psi, but without the Bluto it was really too bouncy. After adding the Bluto I can run 10psi and the front end stays on the ground, the backend still bounces but not nearly as much as it did without the Bluto.

Folks who ride fast on their fatty know about the bounce, it can be really destabalizing, it can throw you off your line, it can be downright scary when making high speed turns on uneven terrain (all I ride, duh).

Now maybe I'm not as talented as someone like rog, but adding the Bluto to my fatty made the Lurch an equal player in my stable.

If you think about it, we nearly all ride suspension bikes, adding fatter tires is no more a replacement for suspension than walking is a replacement for gears; I'm an ex single speeder, argue all you want, gears rock!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I usually ride about 10psi front, 8-9 psi rear. If I had a bluto I'd run the front around 12. The bike sucks on the downhill, I'm hoping the bluto will make it better.

Looks like there is enough room to clear the snowshoes too.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Utahbikemike said:


> I usually ride about 10psi front, 8-9 psi rear. If I had a bluto I'd run the front around 12. The bike sucks on the downhill, I'm hoping the bluto will make it better.
> 
> Looks like there is enough room to clear the snowshoes too.


I would think there is plenty of room, the Snowshoe is only 1/2" wider than the Floaters.

It's worth getting a Bluto if your ride fast on dirt. Last night I went as fast, possibly faster in certain sections, than I would go on my FS. Between the Bluto and slacking out the HA, it's my fatty downhilling machine 

The cool thing is I feel way more comfortable being all "moto boy", putting a foot down, jumping anything in the way, it's like being in a big 4 x 4, I can be all reckless and the margin for error is really wide.

When is bikes direct gonna bring out their FS?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

The gravity FS doesn't look that great to me. I'm not digging the super high pivot.

I definitely ride fast on dirt, so I'm thinking I'm going to do it. Might wait until next year and see if other manufacturers make fat forks to bring the prices down. 

Next big purchase will be carbon rims for the XC or bluto for the fatbike. Really depends what happens when the snow starts flying.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

$500 for a Bluto, that's just about the least I have paid for a suspension fork. I paid a whole lot more for my Pike! 

Of course you'll need an Angleset....so add another $125.

Yeah, we could have waited for the Lurch with a Bluto, but who suspected (not me), and of course those suckers are sitting around waiting while we're riding


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Nice job NB. Im not really familiar with the angleset headset... Did you have to set the angle at something other than zero?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

*My lurch*

Just wanted to pop by and show you guys my lurch.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

rain100 said:


> Just wanted to pop by and show you guys my lurch.


Nice bike. What crank are you using?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Here's the order number for the headset I used to get Bluto clearance:

zs44/ec56 upper/lower cups

There may be options for adjusting head angle, but keep in mind that most angleset users are trying to slack the head angle, so if you are trying to recover a bunch of head angle so you can run 120mm fork, we'll good luck with that!


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

rain100 said:


> They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.


Any idea of weight savings from the stock rim to the Mulefut?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

rain100 said:


> They are sram x9 cranks with wolf tooth components snowflake chainring for 190mm rear end fatbikes.


With this setup, is the q-factor the same as stock?


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

Rockin said:


> Anyone with a 22" frame that can post up real world standover measurements? In between the 20" and the 22" - leaning toward the 22" as my ETT lengths are normally 24.5".


I've a 22" framed Lurch. I measured 36" at the head tube and 31.5" at the seat tube.















I'm 6' 2-1/2" barefoot, and I wear a 34" inseam in Levi's 501s. I've no problems standing over the bike at any part of the top tube.

I hope this helped.

Cheers,
appalachian kamper


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## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

rain100 said:


> I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.


Thanks! I just put on Bud/Lous. Look like next up are some new rims.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Was that the weinmann hl 80's that you weighed?

rog


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## OnThaCouch (Oct 2, 2010)

rain100 said:


> I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.


Which tape did you use to go tubeless? How's it holding up with the Snowshoe/Mulefut combo?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> With this setup, is the q-factor the same as stock?


The q factor is much better with the x9 cranks; however, you do have to use a chainring for short spindle sram direct mount cranks for the chainline to be correct.


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> Was that the weinmann hl 80's that you weighed?
> 
> rog


yes.



OnThaCouch said:


> Which tape did you use to go tubeless? How's it holding up with the Snowshoe/Mulefut combo?


I used scotch transparent tough tape. The Mulefuts are awesome, they set up tubeless very easily, and I was even able to get the bead to seat without an air compressor!


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Bring on the snow!

J.Paks frame bag on my Motobecane Lurch by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Anyone have problems with their chain? Just snapped mine. Switching from small to large cog on my crankset while riding on a flat - nearly no torque. This is the second time I've broken a chain, the other time it was deserved. (spokes ate a derailleur)

Only 95 miles on this chain

Will be replacing with a KMC 10.93, I've had good luck with those.


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## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers - 
Will this fit - 
Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I think its a 100mm bb with 2 10mm spacers


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Whats wrong with the spindle? Mine squeaked a bit until I greased the contact points.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Nope, mine haas been fine, but I'm running a different crank and tires.

Maybe you don't have enough chain tension, ie chain is too long to it "flips" into the tire?

There should be enough clearance, take a look at the spacers on the cranks and make sure they have them set up correctly...

About the only thing I do these days is lube the chain and spray the bike off when I'm back home 

Lovin' the Bluto, so fun to rip down a hill, jumping rocks, waaaay more control than a rigid fork.

There's definitely an FS fatty in my future 



Utahbikemike said:


> Anyone have problems with their chain? Just snapped mine. Switching from small to large cog on my crankset while riding on a flat - nearly no torque. This is the second time I've broken a chain, the other time it was deserved. (spokes ate a derailleur)
> 
> Only 95 miles on this chain
> 
> Will be replacing with a KMC 10.93, I've had good luck with those.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

zakfoyer said:


> No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers -
> Will this fit -
> Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.


190 rears use the longer spindle. 
The Fatboy has a press fit BB, so no on swapping.

Pedaling


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

The stock Lurch crank is very similar to the Samox (same, but unbranded?), also the chainrings are the same size, so I'm not sure what benefit you would get from changing cranks.

If you want to go narrower for running 4" tires, you can get the FSA Comet Fat Bike crank, that's what I run and I have no complaints.



zakfoyer said:


> No chain issues - but have a bb spindle issue - I'm unclear if it's a 100mm with 20 mm spacers, or 120mm with 20 spacers -
> Will this fit -
> Samox crank and bottom bracket that came off a 2014 Specialized Fatboy. It has about 10 rides on it and is in excellent condition. 2 x 10 with 22/36 chain rings, alloy 100 mm CNC spindle, 175 mm long crank arms and includes the PF30 Samox bottom bracket.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Nothing was wrong that I could see. I'm just going to throw another chain on there and hope for the best. I've beat the snot out of this bike and if the chain was going to break there were lots of better times to do it.

I don't even wipe mine off anymore, it just gets thrown in the garage. Now daylight savings is gone, I'm going to get some night rides going on this thing. Hoping I have sufficient clothing for the winter, but we'll see.

I definitely need some gloves and a balaclava or ear band


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## singletrackmack (Oct 18, 2012)

rain100 said:


> I weighed the weinmann rims, and they were 1054 and 1060g. The mulefuts were 805 and 809. All in all, I saved about 1.5 pounds per wheel between the new wheels and going tubeless.


I am assuming you are using the original hubs that came with the lurch. What about the spokes? Where you able to use the same spokes or did you get new ones? Also, did you rebuild the wheel with the new rim yourself?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

singletrackmack said:


> I am assuming you are using the original hubs that came with the lurch. What about the spokes? Where you able to use the same spokes or did you get new ones? Also, did you rebuild the wheel with the new rim yourself?


I used the original hubs. The spokes and the rims were both taken off of a Trek Farley 6. The spokes built with the original rims were 258mm all around. The spokes to build the mulefuts were 267mm and 265mm. If I had the choice, I think 267 all around would work the best, although the 265s built up the front wheel just fine. For me, the fat bike rims have been the easiest wheels to build yet.


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## cousinit (Oct 12, 2014)

32 tooth 1x 10 speed? OBTW, they look like jet fighters, not snowflakes :thumbsup:


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

cousinit said:


> OBTW, they look like jet fighters, not snowflakes :thumbsup:


Funny, I though the same thing.


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## cousinit (Oct 12, 2014)

So rex, I still don't see a small chainring upfront on that close-up shot, or is that just a weird camera angle? still wondering if that's a 10 or 20 speed Lurch?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

cousinit said:


> So rex, I still don't see a small chainring upfront on that close-up shot, or is that just a weird camera angle? still wondering if that's a 10 or 20 speed Lurch?


Maybe *rain100* will chime in, but it looks like a 1X10 to me, no front derailleur is a clue, (although some don't mind hand shifting).


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Follow up on Lurch with Bluto:

I have been riding the Lurch more than my FS, and even though it is kinda heavy and akward at times, it is really fun to ride. I have been working on letting the back end drift around on turns, have yet to really push the front end out, but it might be that I'm not trying hard enough.

I'm running the Bluto 80mm fork as it was shipped, standard oil and tokens (4?), 120psi seems to work for me (190#). I use the full travel when I start jumping and doing drops, but there have not been any harsh "bottoming out". 80mm is fine, but I could see running 100mm travel, but I feel like 120mm would be wasted. I might just order a new air cartridge and try it out.

The way I have the bike set up (short stem 45mm, long bars 740mm, short wheel base slammed forward) it is about playful as a fat bike can be, nimble for a fat bike. It is so nimble that at times it's a bit twitchy when climbing steep grades with an irregular surface; the front end lifts.

On the downs she is steamroller, I go waaay fast, but it is so secure feeling have yet to scare myself, though I have come close to blowing through corners. The BB7 brakes work, that's for sure! 

I'm thinking about a drop post, especially cuz the stock post is a PITA to get secured; I hate to loosen it on the downs because then it sarts sliping.

For my next ride I'm going to play around with wheel position and see how much of a difference it'll make to put the wheel in the middle of the drops, end of the drops, etc...


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Here is the current configuration of my Motobecane Lurch. Added a Ritchey Comp Stem, Ritchey Comp Seatpost, YAWYD top cap, Revelate Designs Bags, some Specialized lock-on grips, cheap NSbike platforms, SDG Bel-Air Saddle, NiteRider lights, and SKS fenders.

Riding the front at 9.5PSI and the rear at 8PSI. I do a 10 mile commute (one way) to work every day and the snow is starting to fall here in Wisconsin.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Mmmm...Motorbacon


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## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Props on the Thomson stem. Your bike is so clean, Sven! How do you like the mud shovels?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Hackinator said:


> Props on the Thomson stem. Your bike is so clean, Sven! How do you like the mud shovels?


Thanks. The stem/bars/grips were hand me downs from my 29er. The stem is an 80, bars are 720s. The front mudshovel is great. The rear, I dunno....I broke the clamp the first day I installed it. PDW sent me a new clamp within days. Still doesnt stay put very well, it swivels side-to-side sometimes. As far as keeping my backside clean, that works well!


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

And, it begins. 7 degrees and snowing....

Lurching through 7 degree snow by bbaker22, on Flickr


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

How are those Snowshoes doing in the snow?


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

I can't give you feedback of much substance,but they worked fine in the one snow ride I did with a few inches of snow.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

*Tubeless Step-By-Step*

Got my Lurch tubeless setup working the other day - mostly, still have slow leaks on the rear. Front wheel was a breeze and didn't require building up the middle, rear did require building up the middle and was a total PITA but was definitely worth it. These huge tires seem to really benefit from the lower rolling resistance of tubeless.

Step by step how I did it. Hopefully it helps someone:
1 - Cut and remove OEM liner
2 - Throw some super glue on the rim weld. I read this somewhere but didn't do it, and I think this is why my rear is leaking.
3 - There are some injection nubs on the tire right on the bead. Cut these off.
4 - Use Duck Brand tape sticky side up for a liner. Use a small section face down to hold the face up stuff in place. Get an ironic pattern, of course. Mustaches seem to work well.
5 - Seal over this with Gorilla Tape - Get the "Tough & Wide" 73mm wide stuff.
6 - Poke a hole for valve stem, install one of the types with a removable core and use a compressor with one of those air blow off guns with the rubber attachment. Like this one: Sears.com Good luck if you don't have a compressor...
7 - Attempt to inflate. You will probably fail, but this will give you an idea of how much you will need to build up the middle to get a seal.
8 - Build up the middle as required. I used Carmacell Insulation Tape P/N TAP18230 from Home Depot.
9 - Seal over insulation tape with more Gorilla Tape. I cut both the insulation tape and gorilla tape into thinner strips for the outer sides of the rim for this part. Cutting the gorilla tape while its still on the roll seems to work well. Rest your knife on a block or book.
10 - Stans, use your air blow off gun with the valve core off to get your initial seal. After this, you should be able to get the bead to seal easier.
11 - Pray it holds
12 - ride


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

*Bluto Fit Question*

OK now I've got a question for anyone who has installed a Bluto on the Lurch without the downtube bend. Nurse Ben, anyone else?

How much extra lower stack height is required? I read somewhere that its 2mm, but that doesn't sound like much. Is this true?

I'm thinking a Chris King InSet #2 might do the trick.

The OEM FSA headset supposedly has a 2.9mm bottom stack height. The Chris King InSet #2 should fit this frame and has a 5.6mm bottom stack height.

5.6mm-2.9mm = 2.7mm. Will 2.7mm of extra clearance be enough? Alternatively, has anyone tried the ball peen hammer method? Thanks in advance


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Alternatively, has anyone tried the ball peen hammer method?


You are not seriously considering putting a dent in the downtube of your frame, intentionally, are you?


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

rex615 said:


> You are not seriously considering putting a dent in the downtube of your frame, intentionally, are you?


Haha, yeah I actually did give it some thought. I'm not super attached to this frame yet. Maybe it IS a really awful idea... Since its a thick steel frame, I wasn't super worried about the frame integrity if I just need a small dent. Of course there's rust from chipped paint and all that business. But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Haha, yeah I actually did give it some thought. I'm not super attached to this frame yet. Maybe it IS a really awful idea... Since its a thick steel frame, I wasn't super worried about the frame integrity if I just need a small dent. Of course there's rust from chipped paint and all that business. But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.


I'm OK with "forming" a chainstay. Maybe a seat tube. But the bottom side of the down tube right in front of the head tube? Son, you must not like your teeth very much.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bike'nSplit said:


> But yeah, the headset swap is a much lower risk fix.


Not to mention less permanent.

Particularly if you are not attached to the frame, a dent like that would surely reduce its resale value.

Plus the downtube is one of the most stressed tubes on the frame.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

car_nut said:


> I'm OK with "forming" a chainstay. Maybe a seat tube. But the bottom side of the down tube right in front of the head tube? Son, you must not like your teeth very much.


Hmmmm. Yeah, forces backwards with wheel on rocks and stress points and all that business. Putting the hammer away sheepishly now...

So back to the original question for Bluto owners if they think 2.7mm extra clearance should do the trick?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Hmmmm. Yeah, forces backwards with wheel on rocks and stress points and all that business. Putting the hammer away sheepishly now...
> 
> So back to the original question for Bluto owners if they think 2.7mm extra clearance should do the trick?


No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.


Bummer. Good to know, thanks. I was hoping to stay away from the Cane Creek Angleset since the guys at my LBS were strongly recommending against it due to the clunking issues many have had. I was also trying to avoid the added complexity of the angle adjustment options. Anyone know of any other headset that might fit the bill?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

oh how i love my q-lite tubes


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

watermonkey said:


> No way. The Cane Creek adds 14-15 mm bottom stack, and after install NurseBen stated there was only 5mm clearance.


No, you need way morr than 2mm. With the CK Anglesset I have just enough; 5mm is less than 1/4".

It's worth the extra expense, the final product is a sweet ride.

I'd do it again , but I'd go for 100mm


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)




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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Took mine out in 29 degrees on wednesday. I didn't overinflate my tires, they were set to normal pressures in the garage. When riding and the bike cooled I found the pressure to be too low. I then pinchflatted 4 miles from my house. No big deal, hadan extra tube. I didnt have a pump just co2. Below freezing a co2 cart barely inflated the tube past completely flat. I had 4 carts and all of them only filled the tube half way to the sidewalls. 

Ended up carrying the bike 4 miles (because it wouldnt roll and I didnt want to roll it on bare rim) until my wife finally answered the phone and came and picked me up a mile from home. Definately adjusting the pressures with the bike at riding temp and carrying a pump.

Was super fun and bike did well up until that point. Feel like there will be more lessons learned but overall ill do it again. Im just worried about my knees. Ridi g more than 10 miles in the cold messed by bad knee up pretty bad. Might have to end up with a 170mm rear ended bike or get a road bike for the winter. I could barely pedal, when I was hiking and carrying the bike they felt fine. Knee wasnt an issue until cooler weather unfortunately. Going to try tomorrow during daylight


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## Coacher1967 (Nov 16, 2014)

First snow ride. Wow great fun. Temp. Out side was 10 deg. But still most fun I have had in a long time. 45 min. Ride in 3 inches of snow in the dark with a bike light. Q factor who cares. The bike is a snow bike and kicks a$$ in the snow.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

So I have considered ordering a fat bike, is the Lurch a bad choice for single-track dirt?

Thanks Lurchers!


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Does anyone know torque specs for the Samox crankset?


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

*Samox crankset on the Lurch*

Does anyone know the torque spec for the crank arm bolt on this crankset?
Thanks


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

giff07 said:


> Does anyone know the torque spec for the crank arm bolt on this crankset?
> Thanks


as hard as you can torque it.

rog


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Auzyman said:


> So I have considered ordering a fat bike, is the Lurch a bad choice for single-track dirt?
> 
> Thanks Lurchers!


No. It's great. I've never ridden mine on anything else.

Ride today was awesome. 20f and nearly no snow.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)




----------



## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Thanks mike! The* amount of options available is a little overwhelming!

Also just ordered lurch with bluto! 

Time to wait 2 1/2 months :madman::madman::madman::madman:


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

Did a 30 mile ride in the white stuff here in Madison, Wisconsin today. The bike is definitely a snow bike. Only complaints I have are the cable housings have compressed a little in the cold making shifts not as smooth and the tires slip a bit in the wet, slushy stuff.


----------



## bobdurden (Apr 24, 2013)

Hackinator said:


> View attachment 939545
> 
> 
> Did a 30 mile ride in the white stuff here in Madison, Wisconsin today. The bike is definitely a snow bike. Only complaints I have are the cable housings have compressed a little in the cold making shifts not as smooth and the tires slip a bit in the wet, slushy stuff.


Hackinator, sweet looking ride! Where did you get those fenders?


----------



## Hackinator (Sep 3, 2014)

bobdurden said:


> Hackinator, sweet looking ride! Where did you get those fenders?


Thanks! It has been a work in progress and isn't light fully loaded but being able to get out in the cold and quiet makes me forget about that. The fenders I got directly from QBP. They are available most anywhere though. Search for SKS Grand M.O.M. (rear) and Grand D.A.D. (front). Portland Design Works also makes the Dave's Mud Shovels. Haven't tried those but some others on here can likely weigh in on them.


----------



## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

For you guys that went 1x10 with the race face chain ring did you need to get spacers or longer bolts. Just curious


----------



## chromeeyes (Nov 18, 2014)

*mud shovels*









The mud shovels are quite light. Additionally, they are wider than the SKS fenders which sold me. The worked great on my second slush ride....hence the purchase.


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Hello Lurchers,
I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
Thanks in advance,
Ed


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

giff07 said:


> Hello Lurchers,
> I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
> Thanks in advance,
> Ed


On a Medium Lurch, stock 400mm post and WTB saddle set at 35 1/2", it leaves 3" of post above the minimum insertion line below seat collar. I'm 5'10.5", current seat measurements are at 36 1/2 (pedal axle to seat top). See the http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/motobecane-sturgis-night-train-thread-932345-31.html thread, post 772 for my breakdown on Med Lurch sizing vs other BD fatties. I think the Lurch runs smallish, still rides well, but would rather have it in a Large. I'm OK with the height of the frame, just think the top tube is too short making for a cramped cockpit. I've got a Sturgis Bullet on order and sized up to a Large.


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> On a Medium Lurch, stock 400mm post and WTB saddle set at 35 1/2", it leaves 3" of post above the minimum insertion line below seat collar. I'm 5'10.5", current seat measurements are at 36 1/2 (pedal axle to seat top). See the http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/motobecane-sturgis-night-train-thread-932345-31.html thread, post 772 for my breakdown on Med Lurch sizing vs other BD fatties. I think the Lurch runs smallish, still rides well, but would rather have it in a Large. I'm OK with the height of the frame, just think the top tube is too short making for a cramped cockpit. I've got a Sturgis Bullet on order and sized up to a Large.


I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Ralph said:


> I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.


On the other hand, I am the same size and ride a small.  Top tube length is comparable to my other bikes and feels good.


----------



## froggy2288 (Jan 25, 2010)

Carbon fork questions.......

So for carbon forks that fit our bikes I can only find the Framed Alaskan and this ebay one:

Fork:
2015 Fatbike Carbon Fork 15 150mm Skewer D Brake Snow Bike Carbon Fork New Sale | eBay
T/A:
Snow Bike 15 150mm Front Fork thru Axle Quick Release Fat Bike Fork Axle Skewer | eBay

Is there anything else for 15x150mm? 
Anyone know anything about that one on ebay? 
Does anyone know details on the carbon fork from Framed, like who makes it?

I wound not mind dropping 2.2 lbs off the front end and having a thru axle


----------



## chromeeyes (Nov 18, 2014)

giff07 said:


> Hello Lurchers,
> I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
> Thanks in advance,
> Ed


I'm 5'11" and the medium is a great fit for me.


----------



## ntm1973 (Jan 7, 2013)

Can anyone post a picture of a surly Bud and/or Lou mounted up to show the frame clearance? I am thinking of pulling the trigger on one but am concerned about the tire clearance.


----------



## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

ntm1973 said:


> Can anyone post a picture of a surly Bud and/or Lou mounted up to show the frame clearance? I am thinking of pulling the trigger on one but am concerned about the tire clearance.


Try page 10, Post #248


----------



## Ralph (Aug 22, 2014)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Try page 10, Post #248


I replaced the Snowshoes with Bud/Lou and couldn't be happier. No more washing out, self steer.


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Ralph said:


> I agree, I think the Lurch runs small. After measuring my current mountain bikes, I opted to go with a large. I'm only 5'9" with 30-31" inseam and it fits fine. I did put on a slightly shorter stem.


Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
Thanks, Ed


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Geometry is here: Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM

ETT's
Small 22.9
Medium 23.4
Large 24.0

Standover
Small 29.9
Medium 31
Large 32.3

And today's Lurch pic...
PB180010 by bbaker22, on Flickr


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Auzyman said:


> Thanks mike! The* amount of options available is a little overwhelming!
> 
> Also just ordered lurch with bluto!
> 
> Time to wait 2 1/2 months :madman::madman::madman::madman:


It'll be worth it. I wished the bluto was available when I ordered mine.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

giff07 said:


> Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
> Thanks, Ed


I normally ride a large, I'm 6" with a 32.5" inseam. I feel like I could have done a XL with a 50-70mm stem. I feel like my seatpost is pretty high, but my reach is perfect with a 90mm stem. If you're on the edge, I'd go with the larger size but I prefer the feeling of a larger frame.


----------



## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

giff07 said:


> Thanks Watermonkey, Ralph and Baker, I am currently leaning towards changing to a size Large. Anyone here with a Large Lurch that is 5' 11 1/2" tall? Hows it fit? Ralph, what is the standover Ht @ the bottom bracket and the Effective top tube length in inches?
> Thanks, Ed


I'm 5' 11-1/2", normal proportions. I bought a Lg. First ride, my initial impression was that the cockpit felt so cramped that I was sure they had shipped me a Med by mistake, but I measured everything, and sure enough, it was a Lg. I've since swapped bars and done some minor tweaking and have gotten very used to the fit and like it a lot. Fit is so subjective and there are some people that prefer a really tight, compressed cockpit, but unless you're one of them, I'd suggest a Lg. FWIW.


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks all
I hope to put mega miles on this bike with the wife as a diversion from our MTB tandem. That is why I am so concerned about frame size. Has anyone measured the standover on their large. If I look at the sizing chart it shows 32.3 inches and the geometry chart shows 30.2 inches. Quite a difference, wondering which is correct.
Ed


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Another thing to keep in mind, the smaller frames have less space for frame bags, and on one of the gazillion posts on here, diminished tire clearance in the rear.


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

froggy2288 said:


> Carbon fork questions.......
> 
> So for carbon forks that fit our bikes I can only find the Framed Alaskan and this ebay one:
> 
> ...


That fork looks interesting and affordable. Buy it and let me know how it works ;-)

I'm tempted to pull the trigger, actually. We'd also need the conversion endcaps for our hub. Any idea where we can source those?


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Just a note to thank everyone for all the input ....I have called BD and changed my order to a Large frame size. Now the second week in January can't get here fast enough!
Thanks again,
Ed


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I'm 6', 32" inseam, I ride a medium Lurch 18", it fits well, small enough to feel agile without feeling croweded, that's with running a 45mm stem. It has similar fit characteristics to my FS which is also a medium and has a long TT running a short stem.

The top tube on the Lurch is pretty long, so it's really more about reach and overall cockpit size than standover. Standover on the Lurch is pretty low for a steel frame. I feel stretched running anything longer than a 60mm stem, my seat is just forward of center.

I don't think I'd pick a frame based on how much seat post is showing or how much room it has in the triangle, that's like picking a tire because it's lightweight; you are skipping the important stuff.

The Medium frame has enough room for a good sized bag if you are so inclined. I run a large roll up Topeak seat bag and a water pack with room for gear. I think a bar bag would be my preference if I needed more space for "crap", esp bulky stuff like clothes.



giff07 said:


> Hello Lurchers,
> I have a med. Lurch on backorder and am wondering about sizing. I am 5' - 11 1/2" tall of average proportions . Since I am at the top of the range I am wondering if a Large frame might be a better fit. Are any of you my size and what size did you order? Does it fit well or would you change to a different size? I am just trying not to need to return my frame for a size swap when it arrives in January. My center of pedal axle to top of saddle measurement is 35 1/2". Would one of you be kind enough to measure your medium and large frame at this setting and tell me how far from the min. insertion mark on the seat post this leaves you.
> Thanks in advance,
> Ed


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks Nurse Ben,
I measured a 26" wheel hardtail MTB that I have owned and ridden for a long time and feel fits pretty well. In comparing the measurements from that to the geometry listed for the Lurch I find it closer to the Large than the medium. The top tube is 1/4" longer on the Lurch than on mine but I am running a 110 mm stem on my hardtail so I can make that up there. Most of the other parameters match the Large geometry.
I appreciate the input,
Ed


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Novatec small parts - might be a source*



baker said:


> That fork looks interesting and affordable. Buy it and let me know how it works ;-)
> 
> I'm tempted to pull the trigger, actually. We'd also need the conversion endcaps for our hub. Any idea where we can source those?


BDop Cycling Co

I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

watermonkey said:


> BDop Cycling Co
> 
> I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.


Cool, let me know what you find out about the d201sb/d202sb parts.

Edit: I just sent them an email regarding the endcaps. I'll post up their response.

Thanks


----------



## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

About the Novatec 15mm thru conversion parts...

I emailed Novatec, and here's what I got back from [email protected]:

Hi Steve,

We have these parts on back order from Taiwan. They should be available before the end of the year.

Thanks
Henry

I asked him to drop me a line when the parts are available - haven't heard back


----------



## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Sorry, I'm a few post behind but here is my 2 cents on sizing. I have the 22" and find it fits me perfectly. I'm 6'2" 180 lbs with a 32" inseam. I'm running the bike stock except for I changed out the rear tire for a LOU 4.8". Ive got a several off road hours on this bike and love it so far. I can see the free hub body is going to be an issue as it already has deep slots worn into it from cogs on the cassette. Kinda dumb they went with an alloy free hub body.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

'eh - been using hopes with my normal MTB. I have over 1k miles on the freehub. Takes a bit to get the casette off the freehub, but it doesn't have any measurable effects on anything.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I have scoured the Earth looking for the hub ends, I have been in regular contact with Novatec USA, I purchased the ends they suggested, but they sent me the wrong ends, then they put me on hold. the holiday slow downs are here, I suggest you make your own using the QR ends, this works fine. Or swap hubs.

I love my Bluto 



Bike'nSplit said:


> About the Novatec 15mm thru conversion parts...
> 
> I emailed Novatec, and here's what I got back from [email protected]:
> 
> ...


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

If you guys find them, let me know. Im either going to do a carbon fork or a bluto depending on bluto prices next year


----------



## serenitycyclist (Sep 25, 2014)

*First Post*

Hi guys, I've had my Lurch for a couple months now and I thought I would post some pics...









well one pic made it, the server must not like 4MB pics. Pics taken at Great Bear zip 13069, NY


----------



## serenitycyclist (Sep 25, 2014)

my cockpit, I cut 1 1/2" off the bars...

http://thinker.smugmug.com/Bicycles/i-tdZc9r3/0/S/Lurch%20SMALL%20PIC-S.jpg


----------



## serenitycyclist (Sep 25, 2014)

*Front or Rear racks for the Lurch*

Has anybody tried the Fat bike OMM rack on their lurch? I need to carry my metal detector in my panniers so I'm looking for some racks. Not much for a 190MM rear end that I can find.

thanks for any help, Steve


----------



## Pasquale (Oct 7, 2014)

NICE! Thanks for posting picture. What size did you buy?



serenitycyclist said:


> Hi guys, I've had my Lurch for a couple months now and I thought I would post some pics...
> 
> View attachment 940995
> 
> ...


----------



## serenitycyclist (Sep 25, 2014)

I'm 5'10" 32" inseam and the 20" is perfect for me.


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Has anyone had success in setting up the stock wheelset from the Lurch for Ghetto Tubeless? If so, what pressures do you run and what method did you use?
Thanks,
Ed


----------



## Pasquale (Oct 7, 2014)

Thanks for your help on sizing. I 'm 5'8 31.5" inseam..I guess an 18" would work for me, but a 20" would also prob be fine.


serenitycyclist said:


> I'm 5'10" 32" inseam and the 20" is perfect for me.


----------



## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Nice lookin' ride Serenitycyclist! Can't wait to get mine.
Ed


----------



## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Solved the alloy free hub issue. Jensen bikes has XT cassettes for 50 bucks. I'll use the one off the Lurch on one of my other bikes. The XT has an alloy carrier that has 6 gears together which will spread the force/impact out over a very broad area. My 3rd gear cog has worn a notch at least 1 mm long. It is worn through the smallest land already and will be through the others in the next few rides. 4th gear isn't far behind. If you people ride 'em hard up hills/stairs/rocks or whatever take a look at your freehub bodies.


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got my first snow ride today. Cut 11 miles of singletrack through 2-6" of snow. It's definitely harder than I thought. Bike is also a lot more capable than I imagined. The few super steep areas I thought I'd have to hike were no issue. Couldn't imagine it with a bud/lou combo. Definitely hooked on the snow riding. Also think I'm going to go carbon fork.


----------



## zakfoyer (Sep 18, 2014)

I stripped out my non drive side crank arm by cross threading the pedal (yes, i'm an idiot) - and am having the hardest time figuring out how to get a replacement crank arm - anyone think this will fit - 2015 Samox pf30 Fatbike crankset For Sale
or leads on whee to get a replacement?


----------



## Pasquale (Oct 7, 2014)

Thanks for posting this. Good to know. also, what did you mean about Bud & Lou - would you imagine it being even better with those tires? Thats what I'm guessing you meant.


Utahbikemike said:


> Got my first snow ride today. Cut 11 miles of singletrack through 2-6" of snow. It's definitely harder than I thought. Bike is also a lot more capable than I imagined. The few super steep areas I thought I'd have to hike were no issue. Couldn't imagine it with a bud/lou combo. Definitely hooked on the snow riding. Also think I'm going to go carbon fork.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Wanna buy my cranks? Stock Lurch cranks, complete with BB and chain rings, used maybe ten days.

Send me a PM if interested.



> I stripped out my non drive side crank arm by cross threading the pedal (yes, i'm an idiot) - and am having the hardest time figuring out how to get a replacement crank arm - anyone think this will fit - 2015 Samox pf30 Fatbike crankset For Sale
> or leads on whee to get a replacement?


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Yep. Bud and lou tires. Supposedly the bees knees, but these snowshoes are pretty good. Also liking the muckynutz front fender


----------



## rover67 (Sep 10, 2014)

Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week. If anybody sees one for sale PM or call/text me. nine oh one three 59 one eight two 7.

It was the early lurch with the straight downtube (pretty distinctive).

Had some other identifying features as well.

-Marco


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

rover67 said:


> Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week.
> 
> -Marco


That sucks!


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

rover67 said:


> Welp, our grey size small Lurch got stolen from our house in Boulder, Co this past week. If anybody sees one for sale PM or call/text me. nine oh one three 59 one eight two 7.
> 
> It was the early lurch with the straight downtube (pretty distinctive).
> 
> ...


You should post this as its own thread -with pics. I'm sure the community will rally.


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

watermonkey said:


> BDop Cycling Co
> 
> I came across this yesterday - the only hint of any place that has Novatec small parts for sale. They do not have specific Sb201-202 parts listed, but do mention that they work OEM, so might have a direct line to Novatec. The do have freehub bodies and bearings, so if they're legit, and I'll find out soon, I'm going to place an order for some backup parts. I also saw that they have a free hub body with a steel spline to prevent gouging. Not having a source for the small parts is really my only complaint about Nocvatec - my hubs are still buttery smooth.


BDop's reply to my question regarding end caps for the Lurch front hub:

"Thanks for the email. I'm sorry but we don't have stock or access to any fat bike product at the moment.

Try contacting HENRY at Novatec USA."


----------



## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Finally got a nice long ride in the snow on my Lurch. That thing is a beast. It was everything I was hoping for in a fat bike for snow use. Did about 15 miles in 3-4 inches of snow. Had a few slips with the front tire (on the corners) until I dropped the psi a few pounds. I don't have a gauge, so I don't know what it was. But it was pretty squishy. After that, it did very well. 

Tires are not as good as Nates or Husker Du's in the snow, but they are still very good. I didn't have any crazy slipping like I've seen some people claim. Good traction even going uphill in the snow. 

Very happy with my Lurch. Even happier with the price.


----------



## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

baker said:


> BDop's reply to my question regarding end caps for the Lurch front hub:
> 
> "Thanks for the email. I'm sorry but we don't have stock or access to any fat bike product at the moment.
> 
> Try contacting HENRY at Novatec USA."


At least you got a response...thanks for the feedback. The next step is bikefettish.com, https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bikefettish/175171749183552, a California shop, nothing up and running on line, but their facebook page is updated regularly, and they seem to be really into Novatec hubs and wheels, so I'm going to try and order a freehub through them. Again, updates as (if) I have them. I've been nervous about the novatec free hub, so have been checking it regularly, and there are no issues whatsoever. The initial gouging from the cassette rings seems to have been the last of the minor damage and hasn't progressed, bearings are still smooth, and the 4 pawls and ratchet ring are in great shape. If I can readily get replacement bearings and parts, then I'm sold on these.


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Some fatbike wheelsets on sale:

Save Up to 60% Off FatBike, MTB, Road, Lifestyle Bicycle Bike Wheels for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

I picked up the Fatbike 29er wheelset. Thru axles 150/190 with WTB Bronson tires. Novatec hubs. So, I'm hoping the endcaps will be interchangeable with my stock Lurch wheelset. That'll give me the opportunity to run fat and skinny wheelsets, as well as give me the 15mm endcaps for running a Bluto and/or carbon fork.


----------



## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Excited !! Ordered a large orange Lurch and the wait till mid Jan is going to be painful to say the least...

Question for those who can answer, What size rim tape will work with the stock rims?


----------



## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> Excited !! Ordered a large orange Lurch and the wait till mid Jan is going to be painful to say the least...
> 
> Question for those who can answer, What size rim tape will work with the stock rims?


Congrats,

The stock rim tape is 2 1/2 inches wide.Any wider and it will go underneath the tire beads. The holes are 1 1/4 inches in diameter, so it needs to be wider than that.

Several have used duct tape successfully, particularly the kind with the designs on it.


----------



## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Would a 1x10 wolf tooth conversion be pretty straight forward on the lurch?


----------



## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I wouldn't go 1x10 if you're planning on riding on snow or anything fairly hilly. I thought the bike was severly under geared until snow riding and steep loose climbs. This is where the bike really shines. You'll loose more weight changing the tubes than switching to 1x10 anyways.


----------



## rover67 (Sep 10, 2014)

good idea, what's the best forum to post in?


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

*snow!*


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

+1 on Mike's comments, the low gearing on a fatty is important for anything with a grade. If you only ride flattish/rolling terrain, then go for it.

I have 1 x 10 on my Honzo and 1 x 11 on my FS. they work, they are simpler, but the weight savings is negligible. 

The only significant advantage of a 1x is if you find yourself switching chain rings often AND you don't use your extremes (high and low). 

There are times when I consider ditching the X01 stuff because even a 30 x 42 is tall in certain situations, but it sure does shift nice


----------



## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

baker said:


> Some fatbike wheelsets on sale:
> 
> Save Up to 60% Off FatBike, MTB, Road, Lifestyle Bicycle Bike Wheels for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes
> 
> I picked up the Fatbike 29er wheelset.


These wheels/tires arrived today. I think they'll give me some good options. I can now run my Lurch as a 29er. I can use the 15mm end caps to run a Bluto or a carbon fork. The end caps fit the stock Lurch wheelset. The wheels also came with the rear 9mm q/r axle kit (including the q/r).

Weights
Front wheel/tire with 15mm endcaps (minus reflector): 2115g
Rear wheel/tire with thru axle (minus reflector): 2351g

Guestimating...the bike will be about 5 pounds lighter in 29er configuration.

I also ordered some Innova Gravity Vidar 29x3.0 tires that I'll try out with these wheels just for the heck of it. The rims are about 5mm narrower than recommended for a 3.0" tire, but we'll see how they work.

Amazon.com : Innova 29 x 3.0 Fat Bike Tire With Tube! Gravity Vidar Black 29 Inch Package : Sports & Outdoors


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Did some mods to my lurch last night. 

Switched the samox crank for a SRAM X5 2X10. The big ring juuust barely clears the chainstay, but it works. Q factor is way smaller than stock as the X5 is designed for 170MM frames. It shifts fine. I also had to swap the front derailleur hanger for one designed for 100MM BB. Problem solvers part #FS1327 is what I used for that.

I also went ghetto tubeless...wow it was easier than I thought. I used a 24" tube and 4-6oz of sealant. I also used a layer of sill foam under the tube. Mod is cheap and well worth it.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Pics...or it didn't happen. And, if you get around to pics, can you show how much the chain clears the tire when in granny? Much appreciated.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Here ya go...

Maybe just under 10mm clearance in low gear.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Thanks man.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Is that the X5 clearance with the stock Snowshoes?

I haven't checked my FSA Comets with the Snowshoes; I ride 4" Floaters, but I have plenty of chainring clearance and my chainline is good.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Yeah its the stock snowshoe tire slammed all the way forward. Chainline is good enough and shifts great.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

In regards to 150mm hub adaptors:

On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 2:13 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Ben,

They were out of stock n the 15mm adaptors in Taiwan the expected delivery date Jan 30 2015

Thanks
Henry


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Bluto update:

Still lovin my Bluto, rode a bunch of single track yesterday, big climbing on steep mix of old snow, fresh snow, and ice. Temps in the twenties with no appreciable loss of function; I set the fork pressure when cold, 120psi, I weight 190#, sag was ~25%.

I do think that I'll increase to 100mm of travel, I can use up the 80mm pretty fast when riding through rollers on a downhill.

Climbing is great with the Floaters, I was able to have good up and down performance running 10psi, no need to drop pressure as I still had enough footprint to to stick on the icey spots. If the surface was less firm, deeper unconsolidated snow, I probably would have dropped pressure. I did slide the wheel back ~10mm to reduce wheel lift and this has made the Lurch behave better withut reducing playfulness.

I am riding a medium frame, which is smallish for my 32" inseam, however the Lurch has a fairly long top tube, so even running a 60mm stem I still feel very comfortable sitting and when climbing or doing tech stuff I can really throw the bike around without feeling like the bike is "riding me". Running a slacker front end with the Bluto and Cane Creek Angleset is probably adding to that long feeling front end


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

Got out for my first real snow ride yesterday! 1,750' of climbing in 5 miles then back down! (Glad I left it 2x10...) I started at 7psi and ended at 4psi rear and 2.5 in the front. At the beginning I was trenching in really bad and was constantly spinning out. After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.

Here are a couple pics from the ride:


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Did anyone use Frame Saver on their Lurch frame for protection?
Ed


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.

What ghetto tubeless method did you use to allow those low pressures without burping? Using the stock wheels and tires I assume?
Thanks
Ed

Great looking Lurch BTW!


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

giff07 said:


> Did anyone use Frame Saver on their Lurch frame for protection?
> Ed


I did. I use a different brand but its the same thing.

https://progoldmfr.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

My new dry season wheels are in progress:

Origin 8 Fat Bike Hubs (150/190), steel freehub body!
Velocity 650b Duallys Velocity "Dually" 26" Wheel Set: Final Review 
Vee Rubber Trax Fatty Vee Tire Trax Fatty 27.5" X 3.25" Tires: Quick Review


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

giff07 said:


> What ghetto tubeless method did you use to allow those low pressures without burping? Using the stock wheels and tires I assume?
> Thanks
> Ed
> 
> Great looking Lurch BTW!


Thanks for the Kudo's! I was going for Colorado flag colors, red, blue, white, and yellow... The yellow rim tape is actually reflective which is fun at night.

To go tubeless I used QBP 24x2.4-2.75" tubes, split open. I didn't use sill foam under them but if I have to take them apart I'll probably do that just for ease of seating the bead. It wasn't too bad to get air in them without the foam but I did have to fiddle with it a bit and remove the valve cores. As far as reliability goes they've been bombproof. I've done some ridiculously rocky and bumpy downhills without issue as well as pushing it pretty good in dirt corners. On my trip in the snow last Sunday I was hitting speeds over 35mph, and at one point while in the mid 20's I got into (bounced across) some 1ft deep car tire ruts without destroying anything, and that was all at the low tire pressures. Although the tires faired well my seat got turned 90º and my left sit bone is bruised from landing on the top tube because the bouncing was so violent!

Yep, stock wheels and tires. Rear tire is showing threads on the sidewalls from all the flexing but tread is still looking good.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks for the reply. My Lurch wil lbe here in Jan. and have heard mixed reviews on converting the stock wheels to tubeless. I definatly will give it a try.
Ed


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Has anyone changed the front ring to 32t with the stock front derailleur? Just wondering if you have room due to the water bottle cage / FD clamp. I have a 30t NW race face ring and a 32t ring in my parts bin. Wondering if I should go 1x10 or keep it 2x10 with a 32t

Will be on a lurch with bluto when its ready to ship next month.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Does anyone else have a really hard time getting there wheels on and off? It seems like my front fork has some alignment issues.


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## fletchercole (Dec 2, 2014)

I thought the reason to go tubeless was to make the bike lighter. Are there any other reasons to go tubeless? Does it allow for better traction in snow? Also, why use a QBP split tube in going tubeless? I would think the weight of the split tube would defeat the purpose of going tubeless in the first place. Please forgive my ignorance as I'm a newbie.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

You save weight over the heavy tubes that come in fat bikes, pull a tube out and compare it to a 24" tube you use for split tube - there's a huge difference in weight, and with split tube you're not using even all of that 24" tube after you trim it back. 

That said, I would do split tube even if it didn't save me weight as I've had zero deflation issues since going tubeless in February of last year. Prior to that I three or four pinch flats with tubes in there (both the heavy ones and the Qtube light ones). We don't have thorns around here, so I don't have to worry about that.


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## fletchercole (Dec 2, 2014)

What is the benefit of going tubeless with a 24" split tube versus going tubeless with no tube at all, using the duct tape/gorilla tape method I have seen demonstrated on You Tube?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I think weight-wise there is little difference (maybe a slight advantage to tape). I have seen a lot of people be successful with tape, but the three or four times I tried it the Stans fluid eventually got under the tape and undermined the "stick" on the tape. I gave up before trying that transparent duct tape that more people seem to be using now. I got the tape to take air, but it was leaking within a few days. 

Some will say it's harder to change tires with the split tube method, but I really haven't had any issues, the split tubes I have in my Fatboy have been in there with three different sets of tires.

I guess in my mind, split tube is pretty much foolproof, I don't like wondering if my tires are going to be flat when I go to grab my bike for a ride.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

NoTubes - Tire Sealant, Path of Death Puncture De&#8230;: NoTubes - Tire Sealant, Path of Death Puncture Demo - YouTube


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

The rimtape only method doesnt really work on these HL-80 rims. I tried and many others tried on this thread too. I couldnt get the tire to seat no matter what I did. You probably could get it to work with a really thick layer of foam under the tape. I had 2 layers under my tape and it didnt work.

Split tube is easy.


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## Captlink (Apr 7, 2012)

Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.


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## anomad (Nov 16, 2009)

sven98 said:


> Split tube is easy.


I just picked up a couple 24" tubes and some stan's. I am planning to drill out the rims to accept schrader valves.

Is a 24x1.75-2.1 tube wide enough? It measures about 45mm across, deflated. I better have a close look at this before I cut it in half!


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

If you can swing by Home Depot and grab some "sill foam" for installing windows and put it under your tube it'll be a LOT easier to seat/inflate the tire.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Captlink said:


> Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.


Steel Frame > Aluminum =P I rather have steel any day if I can make it happen. I also like Sram better. I was considering the Boris Brut but I cant stand Shimano on MTB's. For road I dont like SRAM.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Captlink said:


> Why did you buy the Lurch over other models and if there was one upgrade less a Bluto what would it be.


I originally ordered a BorisX7. Said it was in stock, we bought 2. Next day the wifes shipped and I had an email to call BD. Said they made a mistake and the black Boris X7 was not available in my size. That same day we went to a local trailhead and there was someone there with a Black Lurch. It was love at first site. On the drive home wife says "Your calling and ordering a Lurch aren't you?" Who was I to argue? So in a sense the Lurch itself is my upgrade. Further down the road I would like to upgrade the wheelset. Of course its not due until the second week in January.
Ed


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## mtb_fun (Sep 19, 2014)

Ufdah said:


> Got out for my first real snow ride yesterday! 1,750' of climbing in 5 miles then back down! (Glad I left it 2x10...) I started at 7psi and ended at 4psi rear and 2.5 in the front. At the beginning I was trenching in really bad and was constantly spinning out. After I dropped the pressures it was AMAZING! So much fun, I was squealing like a kid! Fairly stock Lurch + 780mm bars, a cheap Tmars dropper and ghetto tubeless.
> 
> Here are a couple pics from the ride:
> View attachment 945282
> ...


Hey, I know where that is. La Plata canyon. Can't mistake that chimney on the edge of the road.

I will definitely be taking my Sturgis Bullet there this winter.


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## Ufdah (Sep 9, 2012)

If you haven't ridden ridden Pinon Mesa just south of you on your Sturgus you need to take a trip! Super fun! Also make sure to make the Tour De Fat in Sand Canyon Feb 28th: https://www.facebook.com/events/754329374637209/


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> In regards to 150mm hub adaptors:
> 
> On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 2:13 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> ...


I've got an extra set of adapters if someone needs them immediately for a BLUTO they're waiting to install. I slapped a BLUTO on last weekend, but didn't care for what it did to the geometry. If I had a large Lurch, it would be a different story, but on my Medium that just fits and rides snow well (really well, actually), things got too wonkified. Went immediately back to rigid. I'll just wait until my Sturgis Bullet shows, and that will be my trail ride. So, if someone wants to borrow these spacers for a few months to get their BLUTO up and running until BD sends them out, PM me and I'll get them to you pronto. If there are multiple responses, in fairness, I'll go in the order that PM's are received. Happy Fatsivus.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

*Cassette Swap*

Quite a ways back in this thread, or maybe it was the moto/BD thread, there was some concern over the material strength of the free hub body and a few reports of individual cogs "digging into" the FH body. My imagination about what was happening to my own FH body was starting to run a little wild and I decided to spend 50 bucks on a new, decent quality cassette. Seemed like a fair price for some peace of mind.

My lurch has a coupla hundred miles on it and has seen a lot of steep climbing, but not much out of the saddle climbing. Physics-wise, where you're applying the most force to this interface is where you're a heavier guy and you're standing and applying the full force of your body weight to the end of the crank on the downstroke and transmitting it back through the drivetrain components to the splines. A lighter guy just isn't gonna put as much hurt on it. Likewise, if you're a heavy guy and you're seated, but have the leg strength to *almost* lift your ass off the saddle with your pedal downstrokes, you're also exerting a ton of force. And congratulations on your awesomeness.

I am neither of these, but I also think I'm heavy and strong enough to have put a fair amount of stress on the FH body. I was surprised to see that the damage was not as great as I had guessed, based on the anectdotes I'd read.

On the stock Lurch cassette, the only two rings that are "spidered" are the two biggest. The other 8 are independent. This is a photo with all 8 indies removed and the two big spidered ones still in place:









So take a look at this next photo. Where the two big spidered cogs land, there is no damage. Then, there are six intermediate cogs where there is some minimal damage, and then there is almost zero damage where the two smallest cogs land:









Here's a pic of the spidered large cog assembly:









Here's the replacement cassette:









And here's the old (L) and new (R):









So right away, the thing that's majorly apparent between the two cassettes is that the Shimano has the *three* biggest rings spidered, thereby spreading the force out over a greater area:









Better even, is that the the next three rings are also spidered together. Word.









So the only four rings that are indy are the four smallest:









So here's my takeaway. Unless you're a +200 Lb dude who totally MASHES, and I mean in reality, not in your dreams, you probably don't have much to worry about with the stock freehub. It's not a great piece of work, for sure, but like a lot of other stuff on the BD bikes, it's good enough for most of us. As always, YMMV.

I'm glad I did the swap, as it will make the bike a little stronger and it provided further confirmation that you get what you pay for when you buy a BD bike, and that if you are willing to recognize and accept that, the BD solution might be exactly the right one for you.

I took a ton of grief on this thread for countering the notion that you get the "same exact bike as a Surly or Spesh or Trek or fill-in-the-blank for *hundreds* less." I guaran-damn-tee you that the cassette/FH body quality differences propagate into the hub and throughout the rest of the fine details of the bike.

And I'm not saying that's necessarily a bad thing. If the bike does for you what you need it to do, and it fits your budget, then it seems to me that it's a win. But if you expect to spend a third of what you would on a big brand bike and get the exact same quality, then I think it's a you-problem, not a bike problem.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks for the thorough opinion in the freehub. You are right that the spidered cassette helps vs individual cogs. 

But I disagree with your assessment that "bd cheaper out here and you get what you pay for" the hub/freehub is a "Novatec" hub they make hubs for dozens of other private label OEM's and hub brands. 

This freehub gouging issue is not exclusive to the Novatec hubs. It is an issue throughout the industry with aluminum freehubs. Just google or search non-fat portions of this site. It is a symptom of all of us wanting lighter bikes and manufacturers trying to find ways to lower weight. 

You will find many many pg1030 cassettes spec'd with aluminum freehubs. From specialized to bikes direct. All of these setups are prone to freehub gouging. And any of these bikes costs many times more. 

The takeaway here should really be:

Aluminum freehubs shouldn't be spec'd with spider less cassettes. And has nothing to do with the "bikes direct value equation"

But, we all want a certain pricepoint and OEM's all want a certain profit margin.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Sadly its not the novatec hub its just Aluminum is prone to this and rider depending it can happen. I have a few hubs with aluminum bodys and even a SS using a thing steel stamped cog that has no problems but I know others that have destroyed them and even using thicker cogs.


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## neons97 (Jun 11, 2013)

ian0789 said:


> Sadly its not the novatec hub its just Aluminum is prone to this and rider depending it can happen. I have a few hubs with aluminum bodys and even a SS using a thing steel stamped cog that has no problems but I know others that have destroyed them and even using thicker cogs.


Exactly my point it's use of aluminum to chase lower weight which customers want, combined with spider less cogs. Doesn't matter what hub brand or bike brand. So this is not a "bikes direct cheaped out and you get what you pay for"

In fact, if they really wanted to cheap out, they would have spec'd a steel freehub but then we would all complain how heavy the bike is and complain how "bd cheaped out by using cheap and heavy steel like on super low end and department store bikes".

We are fickle consumers aren't we?


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

neons97 said:


> Thanks for the thorough opinion in the freehub. You are right that the spidered cassette helps vs individual cogs.
> 
> But I disagree with your assessment that "bd cheaper out here and you get what you pay for" the hub/freehub is a "Novatec" hub they make hubs for dozens of other private label OEM's and hub brands.
> 
> ...


neons97, thanks, you make some great points.

I wasn't clear on this, but my thought was not that they cheaped out on the hub so much as it was that they cheaped out on the spiderless cassette. With that said, I have not gone out and done a comparison of what is spec'd on some of the various models of the brand names I referred to, so a broad assumption is probably not exactly fair.

However, I do think that given the price point of BD bikes, it's fair to assume that the quality threshold illustrated by this issue will be consistent throughout the rest of the bike. Which is fine. I'm happy that I was able to get this bike for $900. I have had to fuss with some quality issues, starting right from the time I opened the box and have had to replace some parts and expect that I will have to replace some more in the near future. Part of the deal. It's a decent, serviceable bike, nothing more, nothing less.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

I also swapped out cassetes for the same reason. Wish I could post photos of mine, the groves in the freehub body were much longer. 3rd and 4th gear grooves were nearly worn through the smallest of the lands used to orient the cassette. I am having fun on this bike BUT I am getting tired of "trailside engeneering" to keep it going. It hasn't stranded me yet but the headset has loosened a few times mid ride, the rear brake caliper has to be tightened frequently as it slides in the mounting slots that were needed to allow horizontal drops. There were other issues also that needed attention. Luckily I am a part time mechanic at our LBS. 
Oh well it is a fun bike to mess around on. Check us out on youtube at #websterOUTLAWS, #kitCARSON (that's me doing the wheelie), and some other websterOUTLAWS videos.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Still lovin da Lurch...I just wish the snow would stick around longer


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## anomad (Nov 16, 2009)

The 24x2 tube I picked up was barely big enough split to fill the rim and no way I was going to seat it without an air compressor (mine is in storage). So I threw the tube back in and went car camping. I like the lurch a lot more than the kona wo I had, based on my one ride today around dry areas of the great salt lake (low water levels right now so we rode in the lake).


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

So since the Lurch is steel who here has the guts the Bluto it, cut the rear, and weld up a rear sussy setup. I'm almost thinking about buying one just to try the project.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

*Catching Freshies on AZ trail*

Went for a couple snow rides this weekend. Not a ton of snow here yet but just enough to make it interesting, maybe 4" I'm instantly hooked on snow riding. I definitely wasn't setting any speed records, but my Sunday ride was some of the best fun I've had on a bike. Not really an adrenaline high, just super zen happy fun time. Like skiing.



























Thoughts on the bike: My tubeless (gorrila-tape, foam and stans) is holding up well, but once I get the pressure around where I want, the tires start burping, which is no fun. Maybe I didn't build up the bottom of the rim enough. I decided to go for the expensive fix on this one, 90mm carbon rim wheels from Q2 cycling on order! Pricey, yes, but I've always thought wheels are the single most important upgrade performance-wise.

Unlike some others here, the wide Q-factor on this crankset is trashing my knees. I'm 5'7", and in good shape, but I inherited bad knees. So, Race Face Next SL 1x setup on the way. 75mm chanline with 202mm Q factor. I'm hoping this will help. Also got a wolftooth 42t cog for the rear to help keep some of the gearing range.

Am I spending too much money on this bike? Maybe. Although, I think the Lurch is a good platform to try out fat biking. There's a learning curve for the equipment on this sport, and I think if I would've plopped all my money down at once for a fancy Titanium dream-weenie, I wouldn't have ended up with the optimal setup. Also, I didn't know if I was going to enjoy slogging through the snow on a bike. Turns out its great fun.


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## ntm1973 (Jan 7, 2013)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Went for a couple snow rides this weekend. Not a ton of snow here yet but just enough to make it interesting, maybe 4" I'm instantly hooked on snow riding. I definitely wasn't setting any speed records, but my Sunday ride was some of the best fun I've had on a bike. Not really an adrenaline high, just super zen happy fun time. Like skiing.
> 
> View attachment 946866
> View attachment 946867
> ...


Great pics Bike'nSplit.

I can understand the apprehension of buying expensive parts for a budget frame but you can always move those parts to something else in the future if you choose to upgrade although I don't see much else out there in a steel frame with 190mm rear and a non PF bottom bracket. If I didn't have so much money invested in Pugsley wheels, I'd buy a Lurch now too. I'd like to here about your experiences after the upgrades, especially with regards to weight and q factor.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Went up to the Methow Valley and rode some "groomed" trails while my wife was XC skiing. The skiing was terrible, lots of icey spots and hard crust, BUT the biking was awesome 

And the Bluto was really nice to smooth out the bumps and provide cushionin for jumps!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Id still love to know if anyone has A) Changed the front ring to a 32T and had a problem with the water bottle cage mounts in the way of the derailleur clamp and B) Anyone attempt to bash the crankset using something like a BBG?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Spovegas, does the xt casette shift better? 

I run XT on my other bike and love them, I mostly hate the noise the sram casette makes while shifting.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Utahbikemike said:


> Spovegas, does the xt casette shift better?
> 
> I run XT on my other bike and love them, I mostly hate the noise the sram casette makes while shifting.


Can't say yet. For various reasons, I've mostly been riding my skinny-ass bike since the swap.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Possible rack to get to work on the Lurch.

Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Bike Rear Rack - US$25.55


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Utah,
I went with the XT cassette also. No improvement in shifting but I'm not gouging the freehub body anymore. If you want to improve shifting toss the X9 and go with ANY Shimano. The only SRAM mountain shifters I've can say were smooth and positive are higher end Grip Shift. As a bike shop mechanic I know many others prefer SRAM so as they say "Your mileage may vary".


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> Utah,
> I went with the XT cassette also. No improvement in shifting but I'm not gouging the freehub body anymore. If you want to improve shifting toss the X9 and go with ANY Shimano. The only SRAM mountain shifters I've can say were smooth and positive are higher end Grip Shift. As a bike shop mechanic I know many others prefer SRAM so as they say "Your mileage may vary".


Its funny you say that because I have two MTB's with Shimano and all my others all have SRAM and I must say I HATE my Shimano stuff but when it comes to road I love Shimano groups and cant stand SRAM.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.


I've definitely considered that this might be a problem. However, I'm hoping the 42t Wolftooth rear cog will make things doable. According to Sheldon Brown's gearing calculator 28t front/42t rear is halfway between 1st and 2nd /granny with the stock setup.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

You'll be all set with a 28 front. Where I live we have to ride a bit of roads to connect trails (check out #websterOUTLAWS on youtube, that's me in the aero position on the road just goofing around) so it's nice having the 36 in front. I actually wish I had a triple in front, guess I'm dating myself but I like having options for any condition.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'm running XT casette, XT RD, XT FD, XTR crank, XTR shifters on my XC bike - Love love love that setup.

I don't care for the sram shifters on the lurch, sounds tin-y when shifting and i miss being able to switch multiple gears in both directions. Will say it's been reliable so I haven't had a reason to switch it. I feel like the crank gears are made of old tuna can lids they're so soft and flexy. Definitely think a crank would help this bike a lot.


Been riding my skinny bike too, it was like 55degress pretty consistently for the last couple weeks. Definitely unseasonably warm. Rode the fatbike on sunday. Was 28deg leaving my house at 9 am, about 10 or so it warmed to above freezing - turned my bike into a muddy mess, so I invested in a rear fender. Going to try and ride it tomorrow night and see how it does.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Got a chance to test out my DIY studs today! Great ride!


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> To anyone out there considering the trendy 1X10 set-up I say good luck pedaling in deep snow. I finally got a chance to ride some deep heavy snow and what a work out it is even in granny/ first. I'm glad I didn't have a heart rate monitor on, it would have told me to go to the hospital, and I am in very good cardio shape. You may be OK on groomed trails or well packed snowmobile trails with a 1X set up.


You could still do a 1x setup with a smaller ring in the front. I have really strong legs and I was really huffing in 5 inches of fresh powder in the small ring. But I never got down to granny gear. In fact, I've never used the granny. Anyway, I use 1x on my 29er, but my Lurch will remain 2x10. Don't care about weight anyway.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

28/42 would be close enough to stock gearing 24/36. Anything less would be chore. I just don't get the 1x craze, I have three bikes set up 1x and they are not better than 2x, they are.more limited in range no matter how you cut it. The only reason to go 1x is if you don't need a wide range of gears. For anything but flat, you need the range.



Bike'nSplit said:


> I've definitely considered that this might be a problem. However, I'm hoping the 42t Wolftooth rear cog will make things doable. According to Sheldon Brown's gearing calculator 28t front/42t rear is halfway between 1st and 2nd /granny with the stock setup.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Who needs range? Or gears? 1x1 is the way to go....all you need is muscle to turn the wheels!!!!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

I have a single speed 29er and a single speed roadbike. The 29er is for the trails when they are dry and fast, the roadbike is for winter riding. The Lurch is for muddy , snowy trails with lots of hills. It doesn't matter if you are Hercules, you need gears here, unless you like walking through the woods. If you don't need gears wal-mart has a fatty for $300.


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

How tall are the folks riding 16" frames? I am 5'7" and not sure which to go with.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

I am also 5'7". My 16" frame fits great.

Compare effective top tube lengths to your current bike(s) if you are worried.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Go with the TT over what others are riding but at your height unless you have freaky long arms and long legs the 16 will most likely fit you better. I am 5'10.5 and went with a 18 the TT is in the same range as my other bikes and the stand over is perfect. My friend has a 16 and fit her perfect at 5'7 with a longer inseam the reach was perfect and the 400mm post got her saddle height and some.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

LaXCarp said:


> How tall are the folks riding 16" frames? I am 5'7" and not sure which to go with.


I'm 5'8" and got the 16... it fits with a long-ish stem and risers. Hindsight being 20/20, I would've gone with 18 and a shorter stem.

Sixes, I guess.


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## Joyota (Aug 27, 2013)

Thinking about getting a Lurch, but I want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. From the photos, I don't see any braze-ons on the seat stays. Has anyone mounted a rack other than a seat-post rack?


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

MaximumX said:


> I'm 5'8" and got the 16... it fits with a long-ish stem and risers. Hindsight being 20/20, I would've gone with 18 and a shorter stem.
> 
> Sixes, I guess.


What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

LaXCarp said:


> What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.


Keep in mind that your Knolly and the Lurch have two completely different Geo and are meant to be ridden different. Your Knolly has a 67 Head and a 69 Seat tube angle the Lurch is 70.5/72. Riding a stubby stem on the Lurch is probably going to feel really twitchy with those angle.

Also if you are not over 5'9 the 18 is going to be a ton of top tube in your crotch While I would base your choice over TT mainly also keep in mind if you are not X height a fat bike is going to feel massive with someone on a small frame. I would compare a Fat bike to a 29er. Because the extra meat on the tires will gave you a similar stance. If you could ride a 17.5 or 18inch 29er with out feeling like you are out of place then Id say it could work for you but if you have to toss a leg over to mount the bike and feel like your wheel base is way to long for you to comfortably handle then get the 16. They are not nimble when they are one size to big for you no matter how short of a stem you run.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

If you ride a medium Endorphin, then the medium 18" Lurch has the most similar specs.

I ride an 18" Lurch with a 60mm stem/760mm bars, I was riding a 45mm stem but it was a little tight for my knees when climbing out of the saddle.

I'm 6', 32" inseam, normal proportion. I ride an 18" Honzo and a medium KHS 6500. I was riding larger frames a few years ago, but it seems like the frames are getting stretched as the stems get shorter; kinda reminds me of shopping for women's clothing...

I think the Lurch with short stem rides well, I also have it slacked out a bit with the CC Angleset and the Bluto.

I'm not sure that I would go back to a 45mm because the bike handles better with the 60mm; less twitchy on the down, less wheel lift on the up. I also slid the wheel back ~10-15mm to reduce wheel lift, which helped helped with handling all the way around. I think stem length matters, but with sliding drops you can really tweak the ride.

I could ride a Lurch Large (20"), but it would be a big stretch and I don't think I would feel as "in the bike" as I like to feel. I am definitely a lover of tight cockpits and quick handling.



LaXCarp said:


> What stems are people using on the 16" frames? I have been leaning 18" for this reason. My trail bike, a medium knolly endorphin I run a 45mm stem on. I would like to run no longer than a 50mm on this bike and was thinking I may be too cramped on a 16" with this.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Trail side engineering?

Well, I ride my Lurch a lot, but I still have yet to have a trail failure other than seatpost slippage.

The aluminum freehub gauging is typical, don't sweat it.

I have yet to have any caliper or rear wheel slippage, that's with me mashing some big hills up and down in the Cascades, 200# plus kit.

It's a really solid bike, all I did was add the Bluto/CC Angleset, change tires, tweak the top end (bar, stem, grips). It rides like a much more expensive bike 



dirtyroadie66 said:


> I also swapped out cassetes for the same reason. Wish I could post photos of mine, the groves in the freehub body were much longer. 3rd and 4th gear grooves were nearly worn through the smallest of the lands used to orient the cassette. I am having fun on this bike BUT I am getting tired of "trailside engeneering" to keep it going. It hasn't stranded me yet but the headset has loosened a few times mid ride, the rear brake caliper has to be tightened frequently as it slides in the mounting slots that were needed to allow horizontal drops. There were other issues also that needed attention. Luckily I am a part time mechanic at our LBS.
> Oh well it is a fun bike to mess around on. Check us out on youtube at #websterOUTLAWS, #kitCARSON (that's me doing the wheelie), and some other websterOUTLAWS videos.


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## FatBikeNoob (Aug 20, 2013)

Joyota said:


> Thinking about getting a Lurch, but I want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. From the photos, I don't see any braze-ons on the seat stays. Has anyone mounted a rack other than a seat-post rack?


From the Lurch picture, it looks like a rack bolt hole down by rear derailleur. You can then just use seat post rack bracket like the one below. https://www.bikebagshop.com/sunlite..._7c1316_a_7c6496_a_7c11461678157&SSAID=822416


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Nurseben,
Consider yourself lucky. 3 in my group all bought Lurches at the same time and we all seem to be constantly tinkering to get them dialed in. To be fair we are quite abusive on equipment, riding drops, lots of roots, up and down stairs picnic tables etc, etc. None of us regret buying the bikes however and (knock on wood) I have 4 rides now without anything more than a bent brake lever from a failed attempt at riding up a 3 1/2 foot embankment out of a creek. I really had to sweat the gouging, I have never seen gouges as elongated as what I had, and I am a bike mech. The XT cassette cures that issue.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Think I'm done buying stuff for this bike. I've pretty much got it dialed in. I *might* buy a bud/lou setup after trying to ride it through deep snow. (8-12")

I fell a lot, and it was pretty miserable. It was so deep I couldn't see the singletrack underneath and I found I was ping ponging off the sides of the singletrack. At some point someone rode it while it was snowing and created another tire path underneath that my bike would randomly follow without warning. Pretty frustrating.

Had good luck with the revelate frame bag, muckynutz front fender, front fender on the rear and the gut fender on the downtube. Keeps me dry and gives me plenty of room to stow a thin rain jacket, cold weather jersey balaclava, spare pair of gloves, and a tire gauge. The thin side is great to hold a multi tool and snacks/nutrition. Running a medium sized bag on my large frame. The large sized bag was much too large and wouldn't have let me use water bottles.

Finally got around to installing a riser bar, think I should have done it sooner but I just don't care for upsweep on bars. To get the stack height I wanted with a flat bar I would have had to buy another fork. At that point I think I'll get a fatboy.





Cleaned it up today:





Going to try again tomorrow, I'm hoping the trails are packed a bit more.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Today my rear wheel finally began to play slip and slide within the dropout under hard braking. It's disgusting that something like this can happen. Twice I almost hurt and ended up taking a train back home with my bike in limp mode. I'm really disappointed.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I've never had an issue with the rear dropouts sliding, I've got over 200 miles of HARD riding on this thing.

You oil/grease the skewer pivot? Mine's TIGHT.. have to use gloves to loosen/tighten it.

I had the brake caliper bracket mount slide against the frame. I had to re-tighten it with loctite and haven't had an issue with it again.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I have ridden sliding drops for over thirty years, starting with BMX in the seventies, and though they can slip, it is not that hard to make them stay in place. It's pretty much a user thing. I think it's important that the user understand how sliders work. Talk to your LBS about tips, there's no reason to blame the equipment or the mfg.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Thanks Utah. I never tried those fixes, for I never had an issue...til now. 
Nurse, considering it's my first time experiencing this, the only thing I can blame is the product itself. I've been more than content with the bike until now. 
Rather than sending me off to the sages for answers, how about you share some of your 30+ years of experience with me? Not many mechanics at these shops can say they've got the same amount of time under the belts.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Sparkitekt said:


> Today my rear wheel finally began to play slip and slide within the dropout under hard braking. It's disgusting that something like this can happen. Twice I almost hurt and ended up taking a train back home with my bike in limp mode. I'm really disappointed.


This would be called user error 0.o I have multiple bikes with sliding dropouts and never had any problems with them moving unless they loosen up and I dont run a chain tug. The Lurch even has bolts to stop them from moving. QR should be snug that it isnt pulling it on top of that. My Nashbar Fatty has the same style dropout and it has never once changed positions in the last year of heavy use.

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/lurch-blk/images/IMG_8230.jpg


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

Let's jump on the user error bandwagon. 

Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Sparkitekt said:


> Let's jump on the user error bandwagon.
> 
> Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
> Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)


Like I said I have the same dropouts and never once had them move on me. Its user error because they shouldnt move if the QR is snug. I have tons of miles on my fat bike and I have never ONCE seen them go out of alinement. Even on my other SS that use the same dropouts they have never once moved no matter how hard I ride it.

And IF your QR was down so tight that it shouldnt have moved and it did then direction of travel would cause that QR is snap in half if you had that much force or dig into your dropouts.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Don't sweat the blame, it is user error because there is no design failure other than a broken QR that will cause the wheel to slip except imroper install. Denial will not solve the problem. If you were a riding buddy, I'd fix it for you.

To start: 

1) clean the paint from the drops, inside and out.
2) clean the paint and grime from the knurled areas on the hub and QR
3 grease the QR cam contact.
4) adjust the Allen bolts
5) clamp it down as tight as you can


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Sparkitekt said:


> those fixes,


You are not the only one to have this problem, but take heart, it isn't a flawed design. Surly, who know a thing or two about fatbikes, have used this same style of dropout for many years.

Lubricating the pivot contacts on the QR will hep it clam down harder while requiring less force at the QR lever.

Sanding of the excess paint from the QR contact surfaces on the drop outs will help too. make sure you do both the inside and the outside. Also clean any debris/loose paint of the QR clamping faces.

EDIT: Ben beat me to it, at least we didn't give conflicting advice.


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## anomad (Nov 16, 2009)

+3

My lurch slipped the rear QR under hard rear braking the first couple rides. I cleaned everything up and tightened it down "tight as a bull's a-hole" and its never budged since. I didn't sand or lube anything, just cleaned.


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## anomad (Nov 16, 2009)

I have the large revelate tangle bag on my 22" fit is OK for a non custom bag.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Sparkitekt said:


> Let's jump on the user error bandwagon.
> 
> Ian, while you're assuming it's my mistake- broaden your perspective and also assume that I just may have done the right thing as well.
> Now considering the direction of travel in relation to the direction in which the wheel slips under hard braking; do you think the "bolts to stop them from moving" are actually preventing the wheel from moving rearward? (Hint: opposing directions)


I've pretty much stopped contributing to this thread, because the place runs on emotion and there doesn't seem to be much appetite for any kind of objective analysis. Just couldn't let this one go, though.

Sparkitekt, I am *NOT* in agreement that your problem is due to user error. I think that user operation of the modern quick release mechanism is pretty well understood and that most people get that the first course of action, if your wheel slips in the dropouts, is to tighten the nut and apply more force to the cam lever. Duh. I think it is a reasonable expectation that when you buy a complete bike, and adjust the nut such that a reasonable amount of force is applied to the cam lever to secure the wheel in place, it shouldn't slip.

There are obviously some people that have had zero problem with slippage and I am happy that they haven't had to deal with this. But this thread is also full of reports from people who have experienced this problem, and I am one of them. At first, it was really bad, so I can totally relate to your level of frustration. I've spent a lot of time thinking about and working on the problem, and wondering why some have experienced the problem and others haven't. It's easy to jump to the conclusion that it's due to manufacturing variances (or user error, jeez, give me break), but I don't think that is the case here. I think it probably has more to do with combined body/bike mass. High mass hurts you in two ways: it increases your forward intertial force, and it provides you with the increased equal and opposite tractional force. I theorize that the people who haven't had to deal with the problem are on the lighter side of the combined mass spectrum.

There are two components that contribute to the hub/axle's ability to resist the forces that want to move it in the dropout: the clamping force and the coefficient of friction between the mating parts. Without a sufficient coefficient of friction, even a super high clamping force won't be sufficient. (ian: this is engineering 0.o)

Most of the suggestions so far have been with respect to increasing the clamping force and this is certainly important. The most significant opportunity for improvement here, IMHO, is the application of some light oil (Tri-Flow or the like), to the cam interface.

The coefficient of friction issue is harder to tackle. Component design and materials of construction start to come into play here. The first thing I did was to replace the stock skewer with a high quality aftermarket skewer, which in my case was a Hope. This cost me about $20 + shipping.

Here's a pic of the surfaces of the stock skewer parts that bear against the outside of the dropouts:









And here's a pic of those same surfaces on the Hope:









Both the stock and Hope parts have spent considerable amounts of time in service. The Hope's "teeth" are noticeably more sharp, both visibly and to the touch. Note also that the Hope set has a steel insert on the nut. Not sure why the other side doesn't, but my theory is that the design is optimized to resist the forces imposed by pedaling, which would act primarily on that side of the axle. In reality, I think the higher forces may end up being exerted on the braking side.

Likewise, here are a coupla pics of the surfaces on the stock Lurch hub that bear against the inside of the dropouts. The NDS surface is knurled, but the teeth are worn pretty flat at this point. The DS bearing surface doesn't have any knurls.

















By comparison, here are some pics of my Alfine hub that was obviously designed to live in sliding dropouts. Knurled surfaces on both sides. This hub has a lot of miles on it and, but the teeth are still fairly sharp and distinct, both to the eye and to the touch.

















Sorry for the poor quality of these next pics - hard to get a the camera in position between dropouts that allows for focus. But the first is a pic of the inside of a dropout of my Karate Monkey that the Alfine lives in. Notice the "bite marks".









Here is the inside of the two dropouts on the Lurch. I know these aren't great pics, but there isn't much in the way of bite marks. Much more evident of smooth surface against smooth surface, which is not ideal.

















There's not a lot that can be done about the inside dropout interface, without spending quite a bit of money. Removal of paint may hinder more than help, since the stock skewer interfaces appear to be softer than the steel dropout material, and may have more "bite" in the paint than they do in the bare steel.

In my experience, the $20 investment in the Hope (or equivalent quality) skewer will be the biggest help in reducing or eliminating the problem (don't forget to lube the cam, as you still want all the clamping force you can get). This fix, for me, hasn't totally eliminated the problem (I just moved the wheel in the dropouts during hard braking again a couple of weeks ago to the point where the tire sidewall knobs were hitting the chainstay, a sound/feeling I now know all too well), but it has reduced it to a very infrequent level that at this point is more of an annoyance than any kind of show stopper.

Hope (pardon the pun) this helps.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

spovegas said:


> Hope (pardon the pun) this helps.


I also got a hope skewer which eliminated my slippage as well.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Spove, you try putting valve lapping compound on the smooth surfaces. (Dont use on the knurled stuff)

It's the only stuff I know of that would increase the coefficent of friction. Just an idea, never used it on a bike as this is my only sliding dropout frame I've owned.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> I also got a hope skewer which eliminated my slippage as well.


Looking to order a skewer before mine gets here. Where did y'all find them for $20?


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Utahbikemike said:


> Spove, you try putting valve lapping compound on the smooth surfaces. (Dont use on the knurled stuff)
> 
> It's the only stuff I know of that would increase the coefficent of friction. Just an idea, never used it on a bike as this is my only sliding dropout frame I've owned.


Mike, I haven't, but I think that's a great idea that's worth trying.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

Auzyman said:


> Looking to order a skewer before mine gets here. Where did y'all find them for $20?


Sorry, I was not remembering quite accurately. Looks like they're more in the $25 range, plus shipping. One source here.


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## mxer (May 27, 2006)

Spove, how about some friction paste if you have that and not valve lapping compound on the shelf?


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

mxer said:


> Spove, how about some friction paste if you have that and not valve lapping compound on the shelf?


Not sure. I don't really know much about the ingredients of friction paste, but since it's designed primarily to be used between carbon and aluminum surfaces, I'm not sure how it would hold up in this application. Might be worth a try.


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## Aceldama (Jan 18, 2005)

spovegas said:


> Not sure. I don't really know much about the ingredients of friction paste, but since it's designed primarily to be used between carbon and aluminum surfaces, I'm not sure how it would hold up in this application. Might be worth a try.


It's basically fine sand suspended in paste.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

About to pull the trigger on the Lurch X9 with the Bluto......for the price I can't see a reason not to do it.

Am I right in assuming these wheels are offset style? Or am I wrong about that?

Thinking that at 5' 10-5'11" 185lbs and 32" inseam that the 18" with the Bluto would be the right size.....since the Bluto adds 1" tot he stand over.....

Thinking of picking up carbon bars, Ergons and a better seat clamp right from the get go.....anything else?

BTW, what pedals are people using in the snow? Flats like Wellgos or SPDs.....I have a couple pairs of 545s laying around I could use....best of both worlds.....

Thanks

Steve


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

Just ordered an 18" Orange tonight after reading all 910 posts on this thread. Bike should arrive in a couple of weeks. I'm curious to see if BD paid attention to this thread and made any improvements re: back wheel slippage/cheap skewer, rear brake mount, etc, from the last shipments to the one expected in a couple of weeks. 

Thanks to all for the honest and informative posts re this bike, it made all the difference in terms of feeling informed for ordering one online! I'll post my experience with shipping, assembly, etc.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Nine hundred and ten, it's a bike. I think I'm with Spov.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

River19 said:


> About to pull the trigger on the Lurch X9 with the Bluto......for the price I can't see a reason not to do it.
> 
> Am I right in assuming these wheels are offset style? Or am I wrong about that?
> 
> ...


Hi there! I think its a pretty good choice on the Lurch! Im having a lot of fun with it!

IM 6'4" on the 21", so sizing is hard for me to answer! I put some carbon bars on mine, nice in the cold. I also swapped out the seatpost clamp and rear skewer. No issues. I also replaced the stop bolts for the rear tire with some rear facing 4x10mm stainless ones, pics on page 11.

I ride SPDs. I have been on SPDs and anything else just feels weird.

My only long term complaint about the lurch is the difficulty getting the front and rear wheels off. They just are not very smooth. Maybe its user error.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

River, Wheels are not offset type as on many Surlys. This makes them a bit easier on and off. I had to do a little rear brake caliper finagling with some spacers to get enough room for the rotor to clear the caliper but now it seems to be OK.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

msedbaue said:


> My only long term complaint about the lurch is the difficulty getting the front and rear wheels off. They just are not very smooth. Maybe its user error.


Removal of the front wheel should be no different from any other disc brake front wheel. Just unscrew the QR enough to get past the retaining lips on the fork.

The rear wheel is a bit different because of the horizontal dropouts. Biggest tip to getting it on and off with out a battle is to lock the rear derailleur so as to not have to fight chain tension. The locking feature on the derailleur is very handy.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> River,  Wheels are not offset type as on many Surlys. This makes them a bit easier on and off. I had to do a little rear brake caliper finagling with some spacers to get enough room for the rotor to clear the caliper but now it seems to be OK.


Thanks for the clarification. I'm debating the Boris vs. Lurch either with the Bluto.....I don't see myyself necessarily running 5" tires......so I'm wondering if the added Q etc. of the Lurch is necessary.

Update:
Awe crap, I just went through the Sturgis vs. Lurch vs. Boris thing for a few hours.....back to the lurch....if I am honest with myself I will probably only use this in snow and muddy/crap weather.....therefore, I probably will like 4.5" snow shoes.....and BB7s (again after riding them years ago).

My only concern is the Lurch weight.......btw, I read the tubes can be swapped for something lighter.....Q Tubes?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

*clarification*

I wouldn't worry about the weight, just realize it's heavy. One advantage to the weight issue is that your other bikes will feel light. I busted out my old Yeti 575 the other day because the trails were frozen solid and after many rides on the Lurch that old 29lb bike felt really light.The Lurch is a great bike in mud and cruddy conditions. Q factor is a personal thing I guess. I never gave it a thought until I read many posts here, so I guess it does bother some. I wouldn't worry much about front suspension either, the front tire provides quite a bit of squish. It's all roots and rocks where I ride and I never wished for suspension on the Lurch, even on 3 hour rides. The Snowshoe tires are OK but Surly Bud and Lous are MUCH better at handling slimey camber. I love BB7s, Ive had at least one set on a bike since they came out and do not feel that they are a handicap even compared to the Hayes Hydros on my Yeti or the Avid Hydros on my Scott. With the Lurch just be ready to tinker alot to get it "dialed", although some here will dis agree with that.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> I wouldn't worry about the weight, just realize it's heavy. One advantage to the weight issue is that your other bikes will feel light. I busted out my old Yeti 575 the other day because the trails were frozen solid and after many rides on the Lurch that old 29lb bike felt really light.The Lurch is a great bike in mud and cruddy conditions. Q factor is a personal thing I guess. I never gave it a thought until I read many posts here, so I guess it does bother some. I wouldn't worry much about front suspension either, the front tire provides quite a bit of squish. It's all roots and rocks where I ride and I never wished for suspension on the Lurch, even on 3 hour rides. The Snowshoe tires are OK but Surly Bud and Lous are MUCH better at handling slimey camber. I love BB7s, Ive had at least one set on a bike since they came out and do not feel that they are a handicap even compared to the Hayes Hydros on my Yeti or the Avid Hydros on my Scott. With the Lurch just be ready to tinker alot to get it "dialed", although some here will dis agree with that.


Thanks again.

I don't mind some time on the park tool stand to play with things.....I will probably immediately swap out the bars, grips, stem, pedals and seat.....and clamp.....

Is the dialing in more from shifting issues?

And I'm absolutely getting the Bluto lol......my arms have taken a pounding from 20 years of 12 hour keyboard and mouse days.....


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Shifting was one issue, I ended up putting a new cable on the rear derailleur and it shifts ok, but not up to Shimano standards. Rear brake caliper tended to slide in its slotted mount. Had to add a few spacers to get the rear caliper at the right height or the top of the rotor would rub on the caliper. The rear slides out of the drops once in a while on super steep climbs, although knock on wood that has not happened in a while. Stock cassette gouged the freehub body almost to the point where 3 gear was going to just slide around in the new groove. XT cassette fixed that. Steering head bearings tended to loosen frequently, but seem to have settled now. That's about it,nothing that made me walk, just a bunch of small stuff and I'll be honest I'm a bit abusive.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Cool thanks.

I'm used to running SRAM drivetrains, all 1x9s at this point though on my FS, my softail and my HT......2x still on my wife's FS however......all SRAM, so hopefully it is familiar quirks.

I have run BB7s before, have a set on a shelf right now from 2006, believe it or not all of my bikes successfully run Juicy 7s with no issues.

The thing on that list that worries me a bit is the dropout thing......I haven't had sliding dropouts since I stopped racing BMX in 1990......lol....What is the trick with those? Scrape off some paint, maybe throw some loctite on the bolt surface where it meets the frame?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Mine has had to be tightened a few times so the paint kinda came off on its own. Maybe that's why it now seems to stay tight.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My rear caliper did that. Took the paint off, primered the mounts and all is swell.

Jagwire housing and cables on everything made a big difference for the better


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## psychlist (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks spovegas! and everyone else posting in this thread! I'm happy to announce that I just bought my first off-road bike. I've been a road rider for many years; now I'm ready to take to the dirt, snow, gravel, whatever with my recently ordered Lurch! Can't wait until it arrives! I'm also considering a hard tail MTB, although that will have to wait a while.

Thank you all for the valuable insight and informative posts!


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Congratulations. You are going to have a blast on this thing. I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable. The waiting is going to drive you nuts. But it'll be worth it. Enjoy.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

psychlist said:


> Thanks spovegas! and everyone else posting in this thread! I'm happy to announce that I just bought my first off-road bike. I've been a road rider for many years; now I'm ready to take to the dirt, snow, gravel, whatever with my recently ordered Lurch! Can't wait until it arrives! I'm also considering a hard tail MTB, although that will have to wait a while.
> 
> Thank you all for the valuable insight and informative posts!





watermonkey said:


> Congratulations. You are going to have a blast on this thing. I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable. The waiting is going to drive you nuts. But it'll be worth it. Enjoy.


I took my 26er Full Sus to the trails today just to mix it up. It went back in my truck after about 15min and me hating not riding my fat bike =P Out came the fatty and I had blast like I always do!

So my Lurch with a Bluto will hopefully be shipped with in the next two weeks. I have the following sitting in my parts box waiting for it to arrive!

740mm Bars
90mm Stem
Lock-on Grips
SPD's
Race Face Narrow Wide 30T Chainring
42T OneUp Rear Cassette kit W/16T

Going to run it 1x10 and hopefully it will do well in the snow and on the climbs. I went back and forth about running a 32/22 chainring set up or 1x10 and after talking with my friend I am kind of convinced that the 42T OneUp kit should be a good bail out gear and for snow give me a wide range of gears since I will be using it along side a 30T Chainring.

Felt like I have been waiting so long for it to come off preorder but these next two weeks are going to drag!


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## psychlist (Jan 3, 2015)

watermonkey said:


> I love my Lurch. After riding this, the idea of getting on a "normal" hard tail mountain bike is laughable.


So...what I'm hearing is..."once you've had fat, you never go back"









Thanks Ian and Watermonkey!


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Took our my 1997 Ibis Alibi 1x9 today.......33 degrees.....right before the snow.....had a blast.....love that friggin' classic HT......

A couple Surlys past me going the other way.....cliche'....lol

I am thinking the Lurch is a good way to get a quality dedicated snow bike with a Bluto.....I can buy nicer wheels at some point......and here's the laughable part.... I can buy the Lurch for $1300......ride for a while....if I like the FB thing, I can buy a Surly etc. frame for $500-600 and still only be within a hundred bucks or so of the rigid Pugsley build which wouldn't be able to handle a 5" tire......


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Eeeehhh.. even with a 42t casette gear and 30t crank - good luck in the snow

I ran a 34t narrow wide and 42t casette on my 29er. I had insaine amounts of drivetrain wear (600-800mi before chains/casettes needed to be replaced) I could never get it shifting decent, either. Id adjust it and it would need readjustment 100mi later. (Full xt drivetrain)

In snow I find myself living in the granny gear on the lurch. The rd freezes and doesnt shift anyways. I usually ride this bike in poor trail or weather conditions so I bet wear with a 1x setup would be much worse. This bike is suprisingly good out of the box, although I feel like the crank/gears are the first thing worth upgrading (after your favorite cockpit setup of course)

Other thing about 1x setup is that the gear jumps are larger and finding the perfect amount of effort to move quickly and not sweat will be much more difficult. Thats actually the hardest thing for me... riding slow enough to not sweat but going quick enough to keep my core temp up


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> Eeeehhh.. even with a 42t casette gear and 30t crank - good luck in the snow
> 
> I ran a 34t narrow wide and 42t casette on my 29er. I had insaine amounts of drivetrain wear (600-800mi before chains/casettes needed to be replaced) I could never get it shifting decent, either. Id adjust it and it would need readjustment 100mi later. (Full xt drivetrain)
> 
> ...


Im in NJ so for me the trails are a bit different. I got to ride a 1x11 fat bike and felt like it had solid gearing but I can also just leave the granny on the lurch and just move it to the little ring if I really end up needed it. The OneUp kit (and others) seem to work better with SRAM, from what I have found online and talked to my friends. Shimano RD tend to not take to well to the big cog kits.

I run a 1x9 on my one 29er and i don't or haven't noticed any massive wear to the cassette or chain out side the normal use. I really only use my 32T ring on my normal trails, my granny gets used when I am in deep deep deep swamp mud or sugar sand and on a few gnarly climbs out side my normal stomping ground. So I will give it ago and report back out the 1x10 lurch works out. If worst case is it sucks in the snow I will just turn it back to a double for the winter and back to 1x10 for the spring, summer, fall. When I got to ride the 1x11 it felt like over kill for the gears and I never even made it to the bail out, but then again that was in the fall/winter with great trail conditions. Also the OneUp kit comes with a 16T cog so you don't have that big gap. Personally Id like to drop the 11T cog if I could. I found a thread that someone did just that and got a bigger lock ring. So he was able to keep his gearing while adding the 42T and only losing a cog I almost never use.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

Hello everyone, I think this is the first time I've posted on these forums in over 10 years. I didn't know what my old log in was so had to register a new one. I just ordered an orange Lurch last night. I've been looking at fat bikes for the past year or two and can remember when the bike shops in Anchorage had the expensive and wide snowcat wheels back in the late 90's. They were mind blowing! 

I've been considering a fat bike off and on for a couple years and finally stopped by REI about a month ago to check them out in person. I was shocked by how expensive they were ($1,600-$2,000) and they weren't even brands I'd heard of, Charge and Cogburn. I then kind of decided on a Specialized Fatboy and called on one to learn my size wasn't in stock and weren't sure when one was coming in. I then stumbled on the bikesdirect outfit and after a lot of reading, including this whole thread, I ordered one. 

For me, I can't justify spending the money they want for the brand name fatbikes. I mean really, what are you getting? It's a rigid MTB with big tires. It's the same basic thing as was first marketed in the early 80's, a tougher, more capable bicycle equipped (for the time) with big tires and capable of being ridden off-road. The bike OEM's must be laughing all the way to the bank with the soaring popularity of these very basic and heavy bikes that can't cost much to manufacture since there is nothing to them. I've never bought anything from bikesdirect and had to fight my inner bike snob to actually go through with it. But, I'd feel like a chump for spending what, $2400 for a Surley Ice Cream truck which the Lurch seems based off of? $2400 and you don't even get a suspension fork, fricking crazy!!! 

I'm looking forward to the arrival of my bike. It appears it is made in Taiwan just like all the other brand name frames out there. In my research I learned even Cannondale now has their bikes built in Asia. I'm left dumbfounded as to how the brand name manufacturers can justify the ridiculously high prices for these very basic and simple bicycles.


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## MaineColtsFan (Sep 6, 2014)

*I'm Probably Done*

Love my Lurch. I got one of the first bunch to hit the States. I could have left it stock&#8230;but I love to tinker. As it sits, it is now just under 28 lbs. Not bad for a Large. A very fun bike to ride in all conditions.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

How'd u get it so light?


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## Appalachian_Kamper (Jul 18, 2014)

Auzyman said:


> How'd u get it so light?


Just by going off MainColtsFa's photo, I'd say it looks like he's put on a carbon wheelset, front fork, seat post, seat, and probably a carbon stem and handle bars for starters. If he went tubeless... It's not too hard to drop 10+ lbs on one of these bikes, the question is, how much do you want to spend?

Cheers,
appalachian kamper


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## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)

nice ride Maine!! yeah... would love a spec list on that lurch.. nice!

My Blk Lurch is a pig... I love it.. Had to replace the rear Hub with a Hope Snopro... cracked in half... I'm a bit of a torque m monster on some things at 255. hehe..

Anyway...after a few upgrades with the hub and tires...(put bud and Lou on...and raceface stem and bars...etc.) I'm looking for a good set of cranks?? Anyone have a good upgrade they're using? 

thank you!
cheers!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Auzyman said:


> How'd u get it so light?





Appalachian_Kamper said:


> Just by going off MainColtsFa's photo, I'd say it looks like he's put on a carbon wheelset, front fork, seat post, seat, and probably a carbon stem and handle bars for starters. If he went tubeless... It's not too hard to drop 10+ lbs on one of these bikes, the question is, how much do you want to spend?
> 
> Cheers,
> appalachian kamper


^^^^^ Carbon!! My Nashbar fatty is in the low 30's I wanna say 31 or 32lb now? It was easy to drop the pounds after swapping out the cockpit and once I upgraded to X9/BB7 that shaved some more off. Carbon rims, new hub, replacing the heavy cockpit will do wonders for these bikes. The frames alone are no more in weight then other fat bike steel frames.

Mhhh has for cranks Id probably just wait until they break on you, maybe just change the rings out? From what I have seen the stock cranks seem to just be on the par with the X5 SRAM fat bike cranks other then logo. Or at least thats what people are saying they resemble. Someone I know has the same crankset and its holding up well. I have Hussefelt on my Nashbar and I really enjoy them. They are for 100mm BB as well.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Greetings, haven't been on this site for quite a few years. Now that I am doing the fat bike thing, I'm baaackkk!! 

Just ordered the 2015 Lurch in black. Would like to do the blue/black combo. Blue seat post clamp, skewers, brake handles, stems, etc... 

Any suggestions on these items??


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Wow, guess we are in a parallel universe. I just ordered the Lurch ( first time fat biker ) and it's been as long since I've been on MtBr.


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## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)

ian0789 said:


> ^^^^^ Carbon!! My Nashbar fatty is in the low 30's I wanna say 31 or 32lb now? It was easy to drop the pounds after swapping out the cockpit and once I upgraded to X9/BB7 that shaved some more off. Carbon rims, new hub, replacing the heavy cockpit will do wonders for these bikes. The frames alone are no more in weight then other fat bike steel frames.
> 
> Mhhh has for cranks Id probably just wait until they break on you, maybe just change the rings out? From what I have seen the stock cranks seem to just be on the par with the X5 SRAM fat bike cranks other then logo. Or at least thats what people are saying they resemble. Someone I know has the same crankset and its holding up well. I have Hussefelt on my Nashbar and I really enjoy them. They are for 100mm BB as well.


Thanks Ian.... that's some of the info I was looking for! I was wondering about the cranks. They have been fine so far but I guess the "upgrade itch" gets to me more often nowadays with more than one bike now. Love the snopro hub now... little pricey b/c only a few options for 190 rear spacing... but looks and feels killer over the Novatec...going to see if I can get money back or something for that broken hub... it's only been a few months since owning my Lurch...this thing has been through everything except snow so far.. so cool.

Thanks again!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Ok guys, so close to the next batch shipping !!! The wait has been agonizing to be sure !!

I'm 5' 10" 175 lbs 32" inseam and ordered the large. I chose the large based on the previous comments in here and the fact that I don't really plan on 'aggressive' single track and such. More so just to be my winter ride instead of putting studs on my Vaya and having the winter abuse on it as well.

Just getting a little nervous about the 'large' vs 'medium' decision....

Any more opinions/advice from any of you that have either and now have more miles on them??

Thanks for all the input in here !


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Im 5'10 with a 32.5 inseam and if I got a Large I would have hated it on my other fat bikes. To long of TT for me with out having to pull the stem way back and to much TT in my junk when not on the bike. I have a Medium Nashbar fat bike and a Medium dead eye monster SS and ordered the Medium Lurch with Bluto. The Medium frames with a 400MM post work great for my body. But a Large would be a no go just to big of a bike. But the same would go for a road bike or a MTB, I pick the size on what I am comfortable on. Aggressive trail riding or just touring Id still want a bike that fits . me. You might like it as to each is own but you might like a Medium over that Large. The bike has a longer wheel base so it will be great in the snow as it stands no matter what size you pick

I think the main question is what are you riding now in terms of size? How does that feel? Have you ridden a 29er and if so do you ride a Medium or Large? If you ride a Medium and ever tried a Large and it felt to large then this is going to be the same case.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

I'm with you, Dirty Thirty, same dimensions and I ordered a 20" today. It's the cockpit that I was concerned with. Too short on a medium for my tastes.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Me too Dirty Thirty. Measured Effective TT and Standover of my current 26"Mtb and the Large is the closest to those numbers. I am 1 1/2" taller and about 5lbs heavier than you. My inseam is a 32.5". I still think I made the right decision. However I am also anxiously awaiting delivery in a couple weeks. Time will tell.
Ed


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Spovegas,
I am going to do the blue / black frame thing like you did. Where did you get a blue QR for the front hub??

Thanks


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> View attachment 928175
> 
> Got a chance to play in the snow again today. I'm really impressed with the traction of the snowshoes. Forgot my gauge, but think I was down around 5 psi, no burps on the split-tube setup. What a hoot.


Curious on any info on the fenders in the pic. Thanks in advance.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

murph007 said:


> Spovegas,
> I am going to do the blue / black frame thing like you did. Where did you get a blue QR for the front hub??
> 
> Thanks


murph, that was actually the rear skewer.

Here ya go.


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## MaineColtsFan (Sep 6, 2014)

Thanks. 
Like A-K notes, I threw a bit of carbon at it. Seat post, stem, riser bar, SRAM XX cassette and Selle Italia SLR saddle were parts I had left over from other builds. The carbon fork, Nextie 65mm rims, Sarma rear and Carver front hubs were the new purchases. I set the wheels up tubeless. Most of the weight drop came with swapping out the wheel set and the fork. The carbon fork did add a bit of height (about a half inch) to the front in comparison to the stock fork though not enough to frig up the handling. I essentially doubled the cost of the bike, but I still feel like it was a bargain compared to other brands offerings.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

DirtyThirty said:


> Ok guys, so close to the next batch shipping !!! The wait has been agonizing to be sure !!
> 
> I'm 5' 10" 175 lbs 32" inseam and ordered the large. I chose the large based on the previous comments in here and the fact that I don't really plan on 'aggressive' single track and such. More so just to be my winter ride instead of putting studs on my Vaya and having the winter abuse on it as well.
> 
> ...


For me, with your same dimensions, the Medium is too small. It the primary reason I'm getting a Large sturgis bullet, hopefully at the end of this month. The cockpit is just too small, too much seatpost, too long of a stem to make it fit. It works, but Large would be better. I put a Bluto on it, and it was ridiculous - just amplified how small it fits....for me, others will and have chimed in that the medium is the way to go. If I had the large frame, it would be Blutoized, probably carbon hooped up, etc. but it would just be putting good money after bad. Love the bike, shoulda gotta large.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Cold ride today!

\


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I received an email from BD with my UPS tracking number. Pretty excited to see my new bike. South Central Alaska is currently experiencing a very low snow winter. It is terrible as far as snow machining goes but conditions are really good for winter biking. It's actually an epic winter in my area for winter biking. The last time I was really into winter biking I was using studded Nokia's that were 2.something wide and I thought those were awesome for the Anchorage area. When I moved back home to a maritime climate with tons more snow they just didn't provide the floatations I needed. I'm hoping the new bike will work better for our trails that don't recieve the traffic like those in Anchorage. My local trails never get packed down as hard as the ones in Anchorage and the Mat-Su valley. 

I'm inclined to believe that because our snow contains more moisture, it doesn't pack down as hard. I'm not sure what the science is behind it, just something I've observed.


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## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)

shreddin on this LURCH for 3 months now and love it! It's a pig and I'm 255 on this steel bombma mama and it's the tits. Few upgrades...Hope SnoPro hub (b/c I thrashed the other one..torqued it to death)...raceface bars...grips...stem..and runnin stans in the tubes for ultra low pressure for rock crawlin' and such.

cheers fat friends!


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## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)




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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Really excited as arrival day nears! What parks are those photos from Bizarro? How'd the Lurch handle the beach? Pics are great, keep 'em coming!
Ed


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

spovegas said:


> I've pretty much stopped contributing to this thread, because the place runs on emotion and there doesn't seem to be much appetite for any kind of objective analysis. Just couldn't let this one go, though.
> 
> Sparkitekt, I am *NOT* in agreement that your problem is due to user error. I think that user operation of the modern quick release mechanism is pretty well understood and that most people get that the first course of action, if your wheel slips in the dropouts, is to tighten the nut and apply more force to the cam lever. Duh. I think it is a reasonable expectation that when you buy a complete bike, and adjust the nut such that a reasonable amount of force is applied to the cam lever to secure the wheel in place, it shouldn't slip.
> 
> ...


I greatly appreciate your response. You've been the most informative and non-judgmental person I've come across on here. Thanks again. I spoke to BD and they are working on sending me out a new skewer. Once I receive it, I'm gonna thoroughly reread your post and apply some of your knowledge on my issue.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

FSA Comet, light, string, fair price, better BB than RaceFace, works great on 4" tires and it significantly reduces Q factor. I don't have a 5" tire handy, otherwise I could tell you more about clearance. Using the stock wheelset, with the chain in the largest sprocket (36) and the smallest chainring (22), the chain is no further inboard than the inside edge of the chainstay. I figure a 5" tire would clear fine.



Bizarro said:


> nice ride Maine!! yeah... would love a spec list on that lurch.. nice!
> 
> My Blk Lurch is a pig... I love it.. Had to replace the rear Hub with a Hope Snopro... cracked in half... I'm a bit of a torque m monster on some things at 255. hehe..
> 
> ...


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

*Front Skewer in Blue??*



spovegas said:


> murph, that was actually the rear skewer.
> 
> Here ya go.


Thanks, what did you do for the front skewer??


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

What is everyone using for rear racks??

I found the Axiom Fatliner DLX that runs under $60. Not bad compared to $120 plus everywhere else.


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## spovegas (Oct 2, 2009)

murph007 said:


> Thanks, what did you do for the front skewer??


Just using the stock one. No slippage there, so no reason to change.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

spovegas said:


> Just using the stock one. No slippage there, so no reason to change.


True, but now your skewers look bruised...... black and blue!!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

murph007 said:


> What is everyone using for rear racks??
> 
> I found the Axiom Fatliner DLX that runs under $60. Not bad compared to $120 plus everywhere else.


I posted this earlier in the thread. Just ordered one yesterday to try out when my Lurch gets here.

Rack from Banggod ~$26.00


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Just took a $1300 flyer on a blue 18" with Bluto......if I hate it.....not much harm done....I can part it out lol......


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

DirtyThirty said:


> I posted this earlier in the thread. Just ordered one yesterday to try out when my Lurch gets here.
> 
> Rack from Banggod ~$26.00


Let us know what you think of the Axiom Fatliner. I am on standby to order that one as well.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Bizarro said:


> View attachment 953097
> View attachment 953100


Bizarro are you in NJ by chance >_> That fat bike looks really familiar!



River19 said:


> Just took a $1300 flyer on a blue 18" with Bluto......if I hate it.....not much harm done....I can part it out lol......


Im sure your going to love it Steel frame, nice groupset and fat bike!!! I have mine in gray ordered and all the parts waiting to be put on it!


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

If you currently have a BikesDirect bike and pre-ordered it, how long did it take to ship? BD gives a range for the current batch of Lurches of 9-16 Jan. I'm wondering if mine will arrive in time for a trip on 17th. I ordered it in early December. I'm guessing it's not likely.


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## Claim-jumper (Jan 8, 2015)

After patiently waiting/saving for MANY years, I finally pulled the trigger on a gray 2015 Lurch FS Bluto. I have been out of the biking scene for way to long...I'm excited to jump back in with this bike. I've enjoyed reading through this tread, as it has been pivotal in helping me make my decision on which FB to purchase. Now, the waiting game!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

From TX to NJ it takes me about 3 shipping days to get a bike from BD or Bikesisland. Not sure what state you are in but its possible if it ships out on the 9th you will have it for the weekend for sure. 

I have bought a few bikes from them and they ship out same day for the most part or next day early AM. But with the preorder the date is more of a guide line. My self am hoping that the Lurch Bluto ships on the 15th but it can be up till the 30th for it to leave the warehouse.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

histrionicus said:


> If you currently have a BikesDirect bike and pre-ordered it, how long did it take to ship? BD gives a range for the current batch of Lurches of 9-16 Jan. I'm wondering if mine will arrive in time for a trip on 17th. I ordered it in early December. I'm guessing it's not likely.


I think a few of us are waiting for the shipment to go out tomorrow. I was looking at the UPS shipping order and changed the delivery option from signature to leave at front door ( you can search the forum on how to do this - took me 30 minutes). I see on the tracking info that it was leaving from Cycle Spectrum in Houston. I did a career in Houston and now I'm in the great white North. So I was familiar with the bike shop and know that it is out of business (at least at that location). So I called customer service and they confirmed my order being shipped tomorrow. I inquired about Cycle Spectrum and the operator said that she isn't quite sure about the Houston location since she is in Florida. She acknowledged that BD has numerous warehouses in Florida and Texas. 
I did find out some info why Cycle Spectrum shows up on the shipping info..... Not sure why there is a conflict of who really is the "founder" of bikes direct since their site has both names in different sections of the site. First, David Sander - he started the Cycle Spectrum bike chain and later Bikes Direct as told by an article here: VeloBusiness Then we have the "about us" page where it states the Dr. Mike Spratt is the CEO and fonder of Bikes Direct: Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes from Bikesdirect.com | About Us .

:skep: Soooo there you go.... too much info.... my apologies!!!!!


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

Thanks for that, I appreciate your sleuthing.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

histrionicus said:


> Thanks for that, I appreciate your sleuthing.


Mike also owns Cycle Spectrum, Bike Island, and (pretty sure) World Cycle.

OK, I promise I will stop now.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

So given that I have a Lurch on the way in the next few weeks......I'm thinking of picking up the following prior to it arriving:

Hope skewer for the rear......

Q Tubes....

Ergons (I have them on all my bikes).....

New seat clamp......probably a Woodman or Salsa like our other bikes....

Jury is out on the seat.....I usually ride WTB Vs but we'll see

I think the 120mm stem will probably be a wall hanger eventually but I will need to see how things fit.....

Am I missing anything to address known issues?

Thanks

Steve


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

River19 said:


> So given that I have a Lurch on the way in the next few weeks......I'm thinking of picking up the following prior to it arriving:
> 
> Hope skewer for the rear......
> 
> ...


Are you going with a particular color scheme??


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

murph007 said:


> Are you going with a particular color scheme??


Well, I went blue on the frame so I was thinking of using the red rim strips....and I always have a good amount of red on my bikes where possible...but I could also add white for a little patriotic thing.....

What did you have in mind?


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Just was wondering how you were going to bling it. I'm doing the black frame because when the dings and scratches come, I can touch it up easily. Going to do the common blue highlights with the black. Hope they were right on the send out tomorrow??


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

Murph,
Where in the great white north are you? I, too, am anxiously awaiting my Lurch shipment and live in TC, MI.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

MattinTC said:


> Murph,
> Where in the great white north are you? I, too, am anxiously awaiting my Lurch shipment and live in TC, MI.


Ah, wife is from Boyne City. I was raised in Muskegon. We are now in Bayfield, WI.

Home


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

You will need to come up and ride along the ice caves.

Stay at our place superiorhorizons.com


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Ill admit it...Im rrreally jealous of all you future blutofied lurch owners.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

AAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!

....tick tock....tick tock....


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

DirtyThirty said:


> AAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!
> 
> ....tick tock....tick tock....
> 
> View attachment 954246


Same here!! No word or indication of shipment as stated from the shipping slip and the operator when I called. Minus one point on BD.

I just bought up my UPS shipping ship info and the note that said "Ships on 1/9/14" is now gone. Might be time to call and find out what the "new" shipping date is going to be.

Anyone get a shipping notification yet??

Here is a possible reason:


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

My emailed receipt said "shipped date: 1/16/2015". I ordered it on 12/31/14. Anyone else get this on their receipt?


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

I have 1/30/15...ordered 11/5/14


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Maintenance update: After about 700 miles my rear hub was sounding pretty nasty and making loud clanking sounds when re-engaging. I pulled the free hub apart, very easy on this hub, and found grey sludge like stuff in there. I cleaned it out with a rag and all the palls looked good as well as the teeth inside the hub. Since I'm riding a lot in single digit temps I filled the hub with a full synthetic 5w/30 and put it back together. The seals must be good because nothing, not a drop, leaked out. Now she's nice and smooth sounding, but still will clank a bit when I'm abusive. Though the clank is much quieter now and not as frequent. Glad I got mine in Sept. , they were $899 and I think I had it in about a week.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Anyone upgraded the chain rings yet? I want some new ones and wondering if there is anything decent. I want to stay 2×10 but dont necessaraly want to buy a whole new crank. I've got a mason jar thats my bluto fund and dont want to take too much out of it. I'm getting pretty close to pull the trigger.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

MattinTC said:


> My emailed receipt said "shipped date: 1/16/2015". I ordered it on 12/31/14. Anyone else get this on their receipt?











yep. On tracking it still says the 16th as previous picture shows. I get more communication on ordering stuff under 20 bucks....

It'll get here.... it's kinda like when you have to go to the bathroom real bad... the closer you know you are getting to a bathroom the worse it is


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

The notes section on my UPS still shows a shipping date of Jan 9th. What's up with that??


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable. 

Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable.
> 
> Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.


What happened? Pics? Could you just buy new chainrings?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Utahbikemike said:


> My crank cogs are smoked. My small one is unrideable.
> 
> Any crank suggestions? Someone mentioned the FSA comet earlier, but can only find it in 170mm spacing.


Im using the sram x5. About $100 new on ebay.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Yeah, I could buy rings but after reading the fat boy thread (same crank spec'd on low end build) i have no desire to keep it. Should also mention I hate sram shifting, so I'm hesitant to pick up an X5 or X9 crank. I had a spare aluminum 22t cog from a crank that got 1x converted so it's a good bandaid until I can get a crank. The bad gear looked like a saw blade. Strava says I have 225 miles on the bike.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)




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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Wow... I have ~260 per strava and mine look brand new. I interesting. I did run a 1x10 when it was not so snowy out though. That ring looks great too.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Looks like the chain link size is not compatible with the chain ring or the chain got worn


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Id just buy new rings, screw a whole new crankset. The ones that come on the lurch are not that different from the X5 srams.

If you want some good cheap rings look up Vuelta chainrings. They sell them on Nashbar and you can get them cheap on sale. I picked up two 32T rings one for $10 returned but brand new and the other for under $18

34T
Vuelta 104/34 Mountain Bike Chainring

32T
Vuelta 104/32T Mountain Bike Chainring

22T
Vuelta 64/22 Tooth Mountain Bike Chainring

24T
Vuelta 64/24 Tooth Chainring

I am going 1x10 on mine but I got the 32T for a 2x10 set up if 1x10 fails me in the winter as I dont wanna run the stock 36T and the other just for a backup ring.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

murph007 said:


> Looks like the chain link size is not compatible with the chain ring or the chain got worn


Chain measures .5 on my park gauge



ian0789 said:


> Id just buy new rings, screw a whole new crankset. The ones that come on the lurch are not that different from the X5 srams.
> 
> If you want some good cheap rings look up Vuelta chainrings. They sell them on Nashbar and you can get them cheap on sale. I picked up two 32T rings one for $10 returned but brand new and the other for under $18
> 
> ...


That's what I was looking for, thanks.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I was curious about where most bikes were manufactured and found this. 
inrng : who made your bike

I thought it was pretty interesting to see how a number of the big name OEM's have their frames produced in the same Taiwanese factory.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

murph007 said:


> The notes section on my UPS still shows a shipping date of Jan 9th. What's up with that??
> 
> View attachment 954524


WOW, Bikes Direct and shipping date change number 3. 
Those of you that thought your bike was going to ship on the 9th?? WRONG
Ship on the 16th?? - WRONG!!!!

Ship on the 20th??? Possibly?

Quote - ."They are expected to be in by the 20th
and we will email everyone and ship
ship them as soon as they come in.
If you have anymore questions, please let me know.
Thanks again and have a great weekend,
Karla "


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

murph007 said:


> WOW, Bikes Direct and shipping date change number 3.
> Those of you that thought your bike was going to ship on the 9th?? WRONG
> Ship on the 16th?? - WRONG!!!!
> 
> ...


While that sucks... it does happen, when it ships it ships nothing you can do. Really you cant go wrong with the bike so if you have to wait a bit longer so be it. Mine says 15-30th and while I hope its the 15th I wouldnt be shocked if they shipped them out at the end of the month. Who knows the reason but its a risk you take pre ordering anything.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> While that sucks... it does happen, when it ships it ships nothing you can do. Really you cant go wrong with the bike so if you have to wait a bit longer so be it. Mine says 15-30th and while I hope its the 15th I wouldnt be shocked if they shipped them out at the end of the month. Who knows the reason but its a risk you take pre ordering anything.


So true!! She did email me back and stated that the Lurch bikes "should" be going out by the 16th instead of the 20th. But like you say, who knows with the pre-orders. Sad thing is that we get planning events betting on the dates given are accurate.

Looking at dropping the order (which one can do) and buying a Trek Farley 6. My LBS has a pretty decent deal on one. Decisions, decisions......


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Well IF it was me Id just stick with the lurch, I would not be happy with the frame material vs getting the bike faster. While it would fit my needs or wants in the end I want the bike I am going to love. If the Trek Farley will fill your needs Id go for it. I just know from personal XP I built an aluminum SS a while back and after a month of having it I ended up just building a steel frame SS and loving it. Should have just done it the 1st time but I was impatient and needed to just fill the void


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

It sucks, yes... ...but let's remember what we agreed to...


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> Well IF it was me Id just stick with the lurch, I would not be happy with the frame material vs getting the bike faster. While it would fit my needs or wants in the end I want the bike I am going to love. If the Trek Farley will fill your needs Id go for it. I just know from personal XP I built an aluminum SS a while back and after a month of having it I ended up just building a steel frame SS and loving it. Should have just done it the 1st time but I was impatient and needed to just fill the void


That's what I need to hear. Need to stay the course!!!


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

DirtyThirty said:


> It sucks, yes... ...but let's remember what we agreed to...
> 
> View attachment 955015


Oh, I agreed completely..... BUT.... When your shipping information says Jan 9th for a shipping date AND the customer service from last weeks call confirms a Jan 9th shipment... One would give some credence to the latest and greatest information from the company.. No??

To there defense. They explained to me that the additional words were cut off from the UPS shipping message. Ships Jan 9th - Jan 16th. And apparently the customer service person on the phone read the same thing I did.

I am going to be more realistic and plan on riding my Lurch sometime in April... that way I shouldn't be disappointed!!!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Hahah yeah Murph just keep your eye on the prize! Its going to be well worth the wait, I remember when I ordered my nashbar fat bike 1st day they released presales. I felt like it took so long to get shipped. Day of shipping I check the order and find out they never sent mine out. So I called up and they said "O yeah you did pay for it MONTHS ago but you used paypal and since it wasnt available paypal kicks the transaction out. So even tho I payed for it on the billing side Nashbar fawked up because instead of auto billing me date of sale or calling me to confirm the transaction they just let it b . Delayed my order by a few days after they got it fixed but I was so craving it. I almost caved and just went with the Moto FB4 or Boris X9 at the time just to have it ASAP. Well Im glade I waited and I ended up getting rushed shipping from Nashbar / they honored my 25% off / free shipping even tho they had to redo my order. Haven't been off the bike since I got it a year ago. 

I would be shocked if I got mine before the end of the months, I have been looking at my OneUp kit and and Narrow wide ring like its going to make my bike get shipped any faster. One can dream


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> Hahah yeah Murph just keep your eye on the prize! Its going to be well worth the wait, I remember when I ordered my nashbar fat bike 1st day they released presales. I felt like it took so long to get shipped. Day of shipping I check the order and find out they never sent mine out. So I called up and they said "O yeah you did pay for it MONTHS ago but you used paypal and since it wasnt available paypal kicks the transaction out. So even tho I payed for it on the billing side Nashbar fawked up because instead of auto billing me date of sale or calling me to confirm the transaction they just let it b . Delayed my order by a few days after they got it fixed but I was so craving it. I almost caved and just went with the Moto FB4 or Boris X9 at the time just to have it ASAP. Well Im glade I waited and I ended up getting rushed shipping from Nashbar / they honored my 25% off / free shipping even tho they had to redo my order. Haven't been off the bike since I got it a year ago.
> 
> I would be shocked if I got mine before the end of the months, I have been looking at my OneUp kit and and Narrow wide ring like its going to make my bike get shipped any faster. One can dream


Good info. I paid via Paypal also. Is it April yet???


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I checked and the only email I received was from a week or so ago that said my bike was shipping on the 16th. I guess we'll see what happens.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Well for BD they take your money and thats that. Nashbar they put a temp hold on your account. So we are good with BD using paypal.


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

hate to be so negative, but this totally sucks...


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

MattinTC said:


> hate to be so negative, but this totally sucks...


And you guys thought I was crazy looking at April as when I will get the bike!! NICE!!! I wonder if BD invests all that prepay cash and pulls in even more of a profit before actually paying for their shipments??:skep:


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Hey Utah, That thing is fried. I have over 600 miles on mine and it is worn but not like yours. I'm cheap, I would just replace the worn granny with a steel one. They last about 3 or 4 times longer. I wouldn't replace the cranks until they are shot. I've had my crank apart a couple times and pulled the bearings, popped the dust seals and re-packed them with a good synthetic grease. The bearing are not of the highest quality but at least they are easy to service and regular Shimano external BB bearings will work when the OEMs are done.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I got the same email. Too bad about the delay but it sounds like it is out of their hands and due to shipping issues. Bums me out though. I originally was looking at buying a Specialized Fatboy but they didn't have my size in stock. Had I known it was going to take over 6 weeks to get my bike..... Hmmm, I wonder if they've got my size in a Fatboy in? I wonder if I'll get charged to cancel my order as it isn't my fault for the delay?


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> I'm cheap, I would just replace the worn granny with a steel one. They last about 3 or 4 times longer. I


This is the route I am going when it is time for mine. Mine has close to 500 miles and still looks fine.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Thats what I think ill do. I emailed BD and theyre sending me another 22t ring. They didnt have any bbs, so theyre sending me the TA hub caps to fit a bluto at no cost to make nice. Fair enough for me.

I pulled apart the stock bb and cleaned the bearings. I ran them on a drill with atf as lube for a while to get rid of the grit in them. Cleaned them out and packed them with grease. There is a small amount of grit, but nothing terrible. I'll use them in the winter and use the xtr bb I have in my box-o-parts in the summer.

The two cogs should last 400 miles at worst. I dont know if I'll get that many miles on this bike this year. When the weather clears ill go back to riding the xc bike. Going to do the bluto relatively soon, hoping that will make it more summer friendly and reduce arm fatigue. Im also thinking of doing mulefut rims and some more summer friendly tires like ground controls


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## steveski (Jun 4, 2013)

does anyone have experience with the last round of ordering Lurch's, say in September? Doesn't BD usually start to list quantities when they are getting low stock? The clock is ticking to convince the wife on this purchase...


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Nope normally its "Size 18(last one) and thats it. I have been looking to see if the bluto lurches are selling out and the other day they had 16,18,20 now just 18,20. Its just luck of the draw. Heck I started a thread about the gravity SS fat bike and by the time I got the info I wanted and hashed out the pros and cons I had it in orange in mark cart and when I went to paypal it was solid out. I still love it in black =P

Well tomorrow is the 15th so I am waiting to see if I get the email as well saying delayed shipping due to.... Will report back when I find out what the outcome is!


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

*and...more bad news*

:madman:


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

:madman:

<edit> sorry everyone, I WOULD love to be talking tech, building, and ridin ... </edit>

ok... I was trying to be level headed about this ... but March F#!$%@#$ 6th possibly...

I guess waiting that friggin long is one way to NOT ride my Vaya in the damn salt and briney winter !!!!

Come one, come all ... get yer bikes at www.BikesDelay.com !!!

I know 'it's' out of their control but @#$ !!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Id buy a specalized or trek at that point. Seriously.


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## JordyB (Oct 26, 2007)

HAHA, at this point, can us Alaskans finally get free shipping BD? ;p


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Not going to lie, if my order is delayed to March...I will probably cancel


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Ordered the Lurch with Bluto and so far it looks like a Jan 30th shipping date, in theory......

It would be nice to actually use it with snow around, but if it doesn't come before the snow goes bye bye....so be it.....I'll ride it sparingly over the summer and get it ready for next winter.....


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

A little good news...

The jackasses that I work with (a bunch of fellow mtn bikers) pulled a practical joke on me. That last email from BD about a March delivery date is a fake. Notice the email address. I just caught it. I'm really sorry, if I freaked anyone out.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Good going now you can bail out D-30 if he made it down to BD head warehouse and went postal on the place =P


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

MattinTC said:


> :madman:


That was too funny! I was like what!? That's coming to my town, WTF? I know the stevedores who unload the freight, then I saw the railroad comment and figured something was weird.

On another note I compared specs on the Lurch to the base model Fatboy and the Lurch comes with higher end components. I'm just going to sit tight and wait for my bike to ship.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

ak-rider said:


> That was too funny! I was like what!? That's coming to my town, WTF? I know the stevedores who unload the freight, then I saw the railroad comment and figured something was weird.
> 
> On another note I compared specs on the Lurch to the base model Fatboy and the Lurch comes with higher end components. I'm just going to sit tight and wait for my bike to ship.


That was my process as well....I looked at damn near everything in the $2000 price range as frankly I didn't want to spend even that......The Surly was a $900 bike being sold for $1800 and the Fatboy was even worse for the price. Spec'd like a $600 Monocog for $2100....please. I can get a Lurch with a $550 Bluto, the same cranks as the FB, X9 shifters, Rear D., X7 Front D, BB7s etc. for $1300......please. I can hate the Lurch and shift the components to another frame for less than a glorified fat Monocog for $2100.....and have a better spec'd bike when I'm done.

I will stick with my Lurch order......it's a snow bike for me and worst case scenario it is a parts donor....lol


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Deep breaths in and out guys. Seriously if you think its only a winter bike you gotta be fooling your self (no offense) The stupid amount of fun you are going to have on any fat bike just makes you wanna ride it all the time. Anyways like I said in a prior post just wait it out because to drop stupid money on something you dont even want in the long run is just not worth it. 

I still havnt gotten an email saying if mine is stuck on the same cargo hold up as you guys but Im sure its going to be. Obviously I have a fat bike but prior to that we still got out and at least attempted to get some miles in the snow!!!! Its going to be well worth the wait!


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

ian,
what and when did you order?

Also, all others who are waiting for their Lurch to be shipped...Did you guys get an email that said your shipping is delayed???


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Start of November I ordered a Lurch W/Bluto the Pre-ship was for the 15-30th of this month.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

ian0789 said:


> Deep breaths in and out guys. Seriously if you think its only a winter bike you gotta be fooling your self (no offense) The stupid amount of fun you are going to have on any fat bike just makes you wanna ride it all the time. Anyways like I said in a prior post just wait it out because to drop stupid money on something you dont even want in the long run is just not worth it.
> 
> I still havnt gotten an email saying if mine is stuck on the same cargo hold up as you guys but Im sure its going to be. Obviously I have a fat bike but prior to that we still got out and at least attempted to get some miles in the snow!!!! Its going to be well worth the wait!


I hope you are right, but if I find myself neglecting my other rides, something is wrong with me.....there is space for all of them


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

Looks like it was a good thing I ordered when I did. They no longer list any 16" orange bikes. The 16" black ones are also not listed. 16" is still shown for Purple.


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## bcriverjunky (Jul 8, 2014)

MattinTC said:


> A little good news...
> 
> The jackasses that I work with (a bunch of fellow mtn bikers) pulled a practical joke on me. That last email from BD about a March delivery date is a fake. Notice the email address. I just caught it. I'm really sorry, if I freaked anyone out.


OMG! This is the funniest thing Ive seen in a long time. LMAO


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Thanks, I'll send you the bill for new panties since I know I can't get these knots out.

You friggin pecker ROFLPIMP.

Saw this on fat bike trader:


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

I'm debating between the sturgis and lurch. Question is, how much heavier is the the lurch compared to the sturgis and does it make a difference? Also, does each bike have its own purpose? I am really liking my gravity monster but, the wife wants it and I get to upgrade so, I'm going to go with a bike with a bluto. $1500 price range


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

I checked my shipping info from UPS for my LURCH FS BLUTO that I ordered on 09/19/2014 and it says:
"Shipment Information Voided"
"United States 12/29/2014 6:42 P.M. Voided Information Received"

Anyone have an idea what is going on!!!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Bugout Bikes said:


> I'm debating between the sturgis and lurch. Question is, how much heavier is the the lurch compared to the sturgis and does it make a difference? Also, does each bike have its own purpose? I am really liking my gravity monster but, the wife wants it and I get to upgrade so, I'm going to go with a bike with a bluto. $1500 price range


The Sturgis is going to be a little lighter but at the same time a good steel frame isnt that much then aluminum. When you make the choice you are choosing to have a better ride quality from the steel frame vs aluminum. And YES you can feel the difference on what material you are riding on a fat bike even tho people seem to think you cant. That would be like someone saying you cant tell the difference between carbon and aluminum on a full suspension mtb.

In terms of the 2 bikes, the lurch you get better brakes (BB7 vs Lower end Hydro) Sram X7/9 vs Sram X5/7. You do get a Thru Axle rear vs QR and only front thru axle on the Lurch but the Lurch has sliding dropouts and can be made into a SS easy. If you like the feel, look and style of steel and what better group set go for the lurch if you want a bit lighter bike but in the end even out in terms of weight because of slightly heaver parts and an Aluminum frame go for the Sturgis

Both bikes are going to be a blast to ride and can handle anything you toss at them.


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> The Sturgis is going to be a little lighter but at the same time a good steel frame isnt that much then aluminum. When you make the choice you are choosing to have a better ride quality from the steel frame vs aluminum. And YES you can feel the difference on what material you are riding on a fat bike even tho people seem to think you cant. That would be like someone saying you cant tell the difference between carbon and aluminum on a full suspension mtb.
> 
> In terms of the 2 bikes, the lurch you get better brakes (BB7 vs Lower end Hydro) Sram X7/9 vs Sram X5/7. You do get a Thru Axle rear vs QR and only front thru axle on the Lurch but the Lurch has sliding dropouts and can be made into a SS easy. If you like the feel, look and style of steel and what better group set go for the lurch if you want a bit lighter bike but in the end even out in terms of weight because of slightly heaver parts and an Aluminum frame go for the Sturgis
> 
> Both bikes are going to be a blast to ride and can handle anything you toss at them.


Wow. Thanks brother. This helps a ton

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

mtbfs29 said:


> I checked my shipping info from UPS for my LURCH FS BLUTO that I ordered on 09/19/2014 and it says:
> "Shipment Information Voided"
> "United States 12/29/2014 6:42 P.M. Voided Information Received"
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is going on!!!


Did you pay with Paypal?? So far my slip is still good but on hold.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

*I Found Our Pre-Ordered Lurch Bikes!!!!!*









I pretty sure they are in the gray container on the left.............


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

Opps...lets send out the delay e mails


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Whew!! Good thing they got the gray container off before the accident!!! But I think my new shifters are going to be bent...........


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

sorry, the gray container has the 2016 Framed fat bikes....I am not a fan...


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Yes, I agree!! Not much improvement from the earlier models.


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

murph007 said:


> Did you pay with Paypal?? So far my slip is still good but on hold.


Yes I did pay with Paypal


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

mtbfs29 said:


> Yes I did pay with Paypal


You might want to check your Paypal account and see if the transaction was cancelled due to the seller's inactivity. Sometime Paypal will cancel a transaction if the payment was not accepted within a certain time.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got my 22t replacement cog and bluto endacaps on friday. They sent me a sram cog (better quality). Very happy with bd at this point.

Lbs offered me a good deal on a bluto so its going to happen sooner rather than later


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

murph007 said:


> You might want to check your Paypal account and see if the transaction was cancelled due to the seller's inactivity. Sometime Paypal will cancel a transaction if the payment was not accepted within a certain time.


I checked my paypal account. Transaction was not cancled. I emailed bikesdirect to see what is going on


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Utahbikemike said:


> Got my 22t replacement cog and bluto endacaps on friday. They sent me a sram cog (better quality). Very happy with bd at this point.
> 
> Lbs offered me a good deal on a bluto so its going to happen sooner rather than later


Are the end caps free?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Dunno.. they offered them up since they didn't have any bb's


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Lurch front thru axle front end caps from Bikes Direct*



sven98 said:


> Are the end caps free?


They'd better be for all original Lurch purchases. See highlighted spec sheet below for the first gen Lurch.








In my opinion, they owe every single first gen Lurch owner a set of these for free. Getting them aftermarket is a nightmare. If you plan to run a Bluto or thru axle carbon fork, you're going to need them. They are responsible for adhering to their published spec sheets. If you bought something from your LBS that claimed a component could do X, and then found out they were wrong, would you let is slide, or hold them accountable? Same thing applies to BD. I was unable to run a Bluto on my Lurch for months while waiting to get the axle conversion endcaps from BD, and I'm not the only one that had to deal with this. This is part of the process of going direct to customer on anything. BD was not being misleading or or trying to pull one over on us, just one of the many details that slipped through the cracks - like claiming the first gen Lurch was Bluto ready and then come to find out the crown wouldn't clear the downtube. Live and learn, thus gen 2 of the Lurch with the bent downtube. Ask for your conversion caps, I'm sure they'll send them out, but you'll probably have to ask first. In BD's defense, I got my endcaps when I pressed the issue, for free, next day shipped and had my Bluto up and running.

I think this stuff is why BD has such a bad rep around here. However, this stuff happens with every bike company out there, all the time. The only reason it makes it so prominently to the public forum with BD is that, well, their bikes go directly to the pubic. Most of this stuff gets sorted out in bike shops before a bike makes it to the floor or to a customer, and for the most part, the general public is none the wiser. And, most of the time, perceived problems are just that, perceived because people without adequate skill put together a BD bike incorrectly and scream bloody murder about poor quality or blah, blah, blah, when really, everything is fine. Rant done.


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

mtbfs29 said:


> I checked my shipping info from UPS for my LURCH FS BLUTO that I ordered on 09/19/2014 and it says:
> "Shipment Information Voided"
> "United States 12/29/2014 6:42 P.M. Voided Information Received"
> 
> Anyone have an idea what is going on!!!


Update on my Lurch

From BD
Thanks for your email and order. 
As soon as the bikes show up and 
ship to customers, the tracking info will reactivate as soon as UPS 
scans the label.

If there is anything else I can help you with, please let me know. 
Thanks again and have a great day!


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## psychlist (Jan 3, 2015)

Oh well…we wait. I'm riding my trainer to get/stay in shape; the Lurch will be a pleasant surprise when it comes! Plus, it sounds like it's worth the wait!


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

So, you want to know where your Motobecane frames come from???

"Kinesis Industry Co. Ltd. is a manufacturer of aluminum and carbon fiber bicycle frames, forks, and components. Based in Taiwan, it has a plant in Guangzhou, China, and an American subsidiary (Kinesis USA, Inc.) in Portland, Oregon that generates $5-$10million in annual sales.[1] The company was founded in 1989 by former employees of Giant Bicycles, and is headed by Tom Jeng.

Kinesis manufactures and markets it own brand of frames, forks, complete bicycles and accessories[2] which are available only in Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Germany, Israel, South Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, and the United Kingdom.[3]

Brands also manufactured by Kinesis include Diamondback Bicycles, Felt Bicycles, GT Bicycles, Schwinn, Jamis, K2, Raleigh, Trek, Kross and Kona - as well as the brands marketed by the U.S. company Bikesdirect.com: Motobecane USA, Dawes USA, Cycles Mercier, Windsor America.

Kinesis employs 1,430 people.[4]

In December 2001, Kinesis acquired Mountain Cycle, a bicycle manufacturer in Portland, Oregon,[5] and in June, 2006, sold it to Ideation Industrial, a Taiwanese manufacturer.[6]"


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Just curious, if you had $200 to spend on your Lurch for upgrades, what would you buy and why?


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

$200? Let's see... I spent $200 on some Vee Bulldozers... And another $200 on some carbon bits, bar, stem post... My next few $200ses are going to be put toward a lighter wheelset, I think... Or maybe a NightTrain Bullet frame.


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

So has anyone received their new Lurch from the January shipment yet?


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## psychlist (Jan 3, 2015)

bbucey said:


> So has anyone received their new Lurch from the January shipment yet?


I haven't. See pages 41 and 42 of this thread for more info and laughs for why shipment is delayed. Some information may not be entirely accurate, although it is humorous.


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

Yeah I saw those, and was really bummed then had a good laugh at the pranksters that pulled it off. Was just curious if anyone had seen any movement on their tracking numbers. Mine was not scheduled to ship until Jan. 30, so I'm not late as of yet.


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

Auzyman said:


> Just curious, if you had $200 to spend on your Lurch for upgrades, what would you buy and why?


The first money I spent was on some mulefut rims, with takeoff spokes, that came to about $200. The takeoffs spokes from the trek farley 6 worked perfectly with the novatec hubs.

They took pounds off the bike by going tubeless, they are relatively cheap, and they look much better than the weinmanns (I think).

Designed for tubeless wheels will take off waaaaaay more weight than carbon bars, seatpost, or a lighter stem ever will. In addition, the weight loss will be more noticable because it is in the wheels.

Highly recommended!


----------



## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Damnnn that looks insane! I'll have to do that when it comes in!


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

rain100 said:


> The first money I spent was on some mulefut rims, with takeoff spokes, that came to about $200. The takeoffs spokes from the trek farley 6 worked perfectly with the novatec hubs.
> 
> They took pounds off the bike by going tubeless, they are relatively cheap, and they look much better than the weinmanns (I think).
> 
> ...


What is the make of the air pump and are you happy with it??


----------



## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Nothing to report as per my order. Still no email saying its delayed but they do have till the end of the month to ship it out. Hopefully soon, All good anyways I took a week of from road and mtb to give my body a long overdue break. Now I am just chomping at the bit to ride any bike no matter what it is lol.

Did anyone from the Lurch Bluto buyers get an email like the other guys did?


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

ian0789 said:


> Nothing to report as per my order. Still no email saying its delayed but they do have till the end of the month to ship it out. Hopefully soon, All good anyways I took a week of from road and mtb to give my body a long overdue break. Now I am just chomping at the bit to ride any bike no matter what it is lol.
> 
> Did anyone from the Lurch Bluto buyers get an email like the other guys did?


Ordered a Lurch Bluto 1/12, no new emails from BD......just sitting tight at this point, which is fine......


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Placed a new order today for a grey 18" with Bluto.

I had a black 16", but it was too small and I sold it. 

I'm planning to order either an IP-019 or an IP-018 with the fork from the 019, swap most of the components over, and have the equivalent of a Framed Alaskan Carbon with rigid and Bluto for around $1800 instead of $2700. (This assumes I can get around $2-300 for the Lurch frame)

How did I get permission from the boss? I followed the rule: X = N-1 where X is the number of bikes I have and N is the number of bikes that will cause her to leave me. I sold my Niner and will end up barely out of pocket when it all shakes out.

Anyone want a Lurch frame next month? It'll be barely used!


----------



## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Also, posted yesterday on Bikes Direct's Facebook page:



> I never dreamed I would need to inform customers of something like this.
> 
> The situation is Asia for shipping is getting worse everyday. Normal crossing and unloading time of 30 days is expanding to 60 days. Vessels that should be unloaded and headed back to Asia to get more products are sitting in the water waiting.
> 
> ...


----------



## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

murph007 said:


> What is the make of the air pump and are you happy with it??


It is a lezyne HV pump http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HV/dp/B005UZOJZ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421894767&sr=8-2&keywords=lezyne+hv&pebp=1421894772460&peasin=B005UZOJZ2

I like it; however, a mishap with my bike rack means that it is no longer with me. I only got to test it out at home, as well as using it once on the trail.

In terms of pumps I've used it's probably the slowest to get the chuck attached to the valve. The positive side is that it fills fat bike tires faster than the other hand pump I've used, a topeak mountain morph.


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## dslranger (Apr 19, 2005)

I wonder if this has something to do with the west coast longshoremen slow down during contract negotiations?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Got the 100mm Bluto installed on my non-kinked Lurch tonight. I took off the lockout lever and it clears the down tube just fine.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Well I'd guess April for the bikes?


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

dgw2jr said:


> Got the 100mm Bluto installed on my non-kinked Lurch tonight. I took off the lockout lever and it clears the down tube just fine.


Looking good! You'll have to tell us if you notice the geometry change compared to the rigid fork.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

djrez4 said:


> Also, posted yesterday on Bikes Direct's Facebook page:


While delays suck; it sounds like there is a chance that eventually this situation can impact many bike companies and retailers. If containers full of Shimano parts or SRAM parts don't hit the shores on time, your favorite mail order companies may be out of stock for a while on common parts.....

Interesting.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Friggin yeah friggin yeah !!! My tracking just updated and my lurch is starting it's trip to me !!!


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

dgw2jr said:


> Got the 100mm Bluto installed on my non-kinked Lurch tonight. I took off the lockout lever and it clears the down tube just fine.


Nice! So I assume you reused the stock headset? What size frame is your lurch?


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

DirtyThirty said:


> Friggin yeah friggin yeah !!! My tracking just updated and my lurch is starting it's trip to me !!!


When did you purchase?


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> Friggin yeah friggin yeah !!! My tracking just updated and my lurch is starting it's trip to me !!!


Yeah, When did you order? I ordered on 12/28/2014 and mine has not updated.

Also, djrez, when did you order?


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

I just got an email stating that it was going to be delayed up to 3 weeks.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

djrez4 said:


> When did you purchase?


November


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

MattinTC said:


> Yeah, When did you order? I ordered on 12/28/2014 and mine has not updated.
> 
> Also, djrez, when did you order?


Last night. Got an email with a tracking number stating that it would ship on the 30th, but then...



bbucey said:


> I just got an email stating that it was going to be delayed up to 3 weeks.
> View attachment 957739


I got this email as well.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

dgw2jr said:


> Got the 100mm Bluto installed on my non-kinked Lurch tonight. I took off the lockout lever and it clears the down tube just fine.


Definitely size dependent. I thought about doing that on a non-kinked Lurch size small, and it didn't work. The fork struck the downtube on both the air fill side and the lockout lever side. So I zip tied a section of the stock grips to the downtube as a bumper and called it good.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

djrez4 said:


> I got this email as well.


Yep - just received the same email this afternoon. Very disheartening...:madman:


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> Friggin yeah friggin yeah !!! My tracking just updated and my lurch is starting it's trip to me !!!


Did you order a standard Lurch or a Lurch FS? I ordered a reg Lurch and no email and no movement on my UPS shipment tracking.


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

for those of you that are getting the 3-week delay emails, which Lurch did you order - reg (no bluto) or FS?


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

MattinTC said:


> for those of you that are getting the 3-week delay emails, which Lurch did you order - reg (no bluto) or FS?


FS - sounds like the non-FS models came in?


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

Archangel6 said:


> FS - sounds like the non-FS models came in?


Archangel, When did you order?


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

The FS w/ the Bluto


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

Archangel6 said:


> The FS w/ the Bluto


When?


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

Bluto for me. Order on 12/31 with a ship date of 1-30 but I guess I won't be seeing it until end of Feb.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I've not received any new emails, I ordered a rigid Lurch on 12/30/14.


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

ak-rider said:


> I've not received any new emails, I ordered a rigid Lurch on 12/30/14.


ak-rider, any movement on your shipment tracking?


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Same email here.....no big deal.....it's already paid for.....it would be nicer to see more snow with it, but I'll have it dialed in for next year....


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

River19 said:


> Same email here.....no big deal.....it's already paid for.....it would be nicer to see more snow with it, but I'll have it dialed in for next year....


River, which bike did you order? Rigid fork or w/bluto?


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

MattinTC said:


> River, which bike did you order? Rigid fork or w/bluto?


Bluto......on 1/12........


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## sebob (Mar 14, 2008)

What's up Lurchfolks. I am tempted to pull the trigger and join ya but all this shipping hubbub has got me a bit worried. 
Is the current estimated shipping date (1/23-2/6) still correct, or will it be three weeks after that?
Not to steal the thread's thunder but I might just have to pull the trigger on this guy for $250 more..very tempting. Any thoughts on that?


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

MattinTC said:


> ak-rider, any movement on your shipment tracking?


I just checked and the UPS info seems unchanged. It just says the label has been created. I still haven't received any new emails from BD. The last one I received was the one that described the shipping delay and new dates of 1/23-2/6.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

I ordered November 2nd it took about a week before I got an email about my purchase. Idk to me its worth the wait Sebob...you get a bluto fork at a steal of a price.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Just remember that if you change your mind on the order and BD has not shipped, you can cancel your order if you find something else you would rater buy. So it's putting money down to get in line with the option to step out when you like.


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## sebob (Mar 14, 2008)

Sounds like I might have to go for the Lurch, thanks guys.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

And for the record, this type of crap happens with damn near every other manufacturer/brand. Ever hear the horror stories of ordering a bike through the LBS? They get jerked around by the parent company just like an end user like ourselves with BD does. They are all at the mercy of when the ship comes in, when the factory can make that frame size and get it here etc.

I remember Scalpels and Rize's taking months after the LBS promise date for folks. Especially one off ones like odd sizes....

Which is why, I'll sit patiently and ride the other bikes I have, it is what it is.


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

Has anyone been able to get their lurch down in weight significantly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kllrbee (May 5, 2014)

Hey Guys, 
I ordered a rigid Lurch a few weeks ago....1/11....not too long ago. 
Ive been following this thread since. 
My ship date is for 1/23-2/6....and I have not received any emails saying otherwise. Except for 1 which was a couple days after I ordered informing me that the delivery would be pushed back from a starting ship date of 1/16 to 1/23...no biggie....its just a week.
Just wanted to share for those of you who were inquiring on the different ships dates of the rigid vs bluto.

Honestly, one of the reasons why I ordered this bike over some others from Motobecane is cuz I thought this bike was practically in stock and I would have it relatively quick.
Obviously, that has not been the case. 
I understand it is out of their hands... Im not complaining here. But its given me some time to think about some of the other offerings. Specifically the Night Train Bullet. Its 500 bucks more and its ship date begins 1/30.....so only a week difference from the Lurch rigid.

Just wondering how much "better" of a bike it is. Aluminum vs CroMo....Hyd brakes vs Mech....obviously Bluto fork. Im not noticing much more of a difference though. But maybe Im missing something. 

Problem is this will be my first fat bike and Im not entirely sure how Im going to use it. Initially, I was thinking purely winter snow bike. If that's the case, then I would just go rigid. But Im just not sure how much Ill use this bike at other times of the year for the tech trails I ride. If I end up absolutely loving it, I may just sell my Giant XTC carbon 29er. And if that's the case, I think Id want the Bluto and Hyd brakes.

So it seems I can stick with the rigid Lurch and possibly upgrade to Bluto later.....OR....spend the extra 500 now and have it but possibly not need it.

Please give me your opinions either way.

Thanks very much


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

kllrbee said:


> Hey Guys,
> I ordered a rigid Lurch a few weeks ago....1/11....not too long ago.
> Ive been following this thread since.
> My ship date is for 1/23-2/6....and I have not received any emails saying otherwise. Except for 1 which was a couple days after I ordered informing me that the delivery would be pushed back from a starting ship date of 1/16 to 1/23...no biggie....its just a week.
> ...


Sorry for the bad news but, nighttrain isn't shooping until May brother.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

That date is for the Night Train. The Night Train *Bullet* (I know it is just one more word, but grammatically speaking, does make a difference when communicating in the written form), ships earlier; Jan 30th - Feb 16th, barring shipping delays.

For what its worth, I own a Lurch, ride the crap out of it and love it, but have a Sturgis Bullet on order. The Lurch, for me, comes up short for summer riding. High speeds through chunky, techy terrain is very exciting on an unsprung fatty. Doable, fun, and frightening all at the same time. Old elbow and shoulders looking forward to a Bluto. I think the Lurch will be a much better snow ride, however, thus, two fattys.


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

Watermonkey, your correct however, look at what sizes are available (none). My guess is that when sizes become available, ship date will change to May. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kllrbee (May 5, 2014)

Bugout Bikes said:


> Watermonkey, your correct however, look at what sizes are available (none). My guess is that when sizes become available, ship date will change to May.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, I noticed that too, but wasn't sure what to make of it. Do they have no sizes or all sizes? I assume none. If that's the case, forget it. Ill stick with the Lurch and hopefully have it in a couple weeks. I can always upgrade Bluto later and although hyd brakes are nice, they are not absolutely necessary for me.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Not to change the subject but here's what happened with my Lurch this week. At 687 miles (per strava) my rear hub failed completely and left me stranded 5 miles from my car. It was a long walk in bike shoes as I do not have a cell phone. Because I've had the bike more than 30 days I e-mailed Novatec and still have not heard from them yet. Of the 3 of us that bought a Lurch in my group 2 have had a rear hub failure that has left us stranded. The 1 that has not failed is making awful noises that make us think it will fail soon. I replaced the wheel with one I bought at the shop where I work,which is a Surly with a Novatec hub. So WHEN this one fails at least I'll be able to get a warranty replacement.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

What is that failed on the hub?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I love this bike!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Good to see my lurch being loved like it should. :thumbsup:

You moved fast with the bud/Lou and bluto. Bet that thing rips


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Utahbikemike said:


> Good to see my lurch being loved like it should. :thumbsup:
> 
> You moved fast with the bud/Lou and bluto. Bet that thing rips


I put 10psi in the tires and it moves. It's actually a ground control on the rear. Don't feel like I need the crazy traction and resistance of the Lou. Yet


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Oh yeah, saw the bud and just assumed on the rear. I liked 10f 8r, but with the bluto I'd try 11 or 12 to get it to lean over easier. If you don't end up using that frame bag let me know and I'll buy it back from ya, or trade you some of my home brew sealant if you need it.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Rex, Pretty much complete failure. The free hub is cracked in 2 places where the palls are attached. One of the cracks runs the entire length of the free hub body, from the pall all the way out to where the cassette mounts. In the hub itself is a steel ring that the palls on the free hub engage to drive the wheel. That steel ring has broken free from the aluminum hub and still I have heard nothing from Novatec. I had a feeling that the hub was going to be the Lurch's Achilles heel.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

dirtyroadie, bummer about the hub failure. I'm having a carbon wheel from Q2 cycling being built up, and I'm waiting on them to get Novatec hubs in stock. They have hubs from Chosen ready to go. Do you know anything about Chosen? I'm wondering if they would be a better option. Word is Chosen makes 9zero7 and On-One hubs? The only drawback I can see with them so far is that they are loud.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

B n S, I would recommend anything BUT Novatec. I have no experience with Chosen Hubs. Novatec uses an aluminum freehub that is prone to cracking. Mine cracked is 2 places and a friend of mine had his actually break inside the hub which did not allow the wheel to freewheel. Granted our group is a bit more abusive than most, but it should have lasted more than 687 miles. I've got thousands of miles on a cheap Mavic Cross land wheel on my Yeti, and I don't baby that bike and thousands of miles on the Shimano hub on my Scott Scale 29er with no problems.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Slow going in deep powder


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> Rex, Pretty much complete failure. The free hub is cracked in 2 places where the palls are attached. One of the cracks runs the entire length of the free hub body, from the pall all the way out to where the cassette mounts. In the hub itself is a steel ring that the palls on the free hub engage to drive the wheel. That steel ring has broken free from the aluminum hub and still I have heard nothing from Novatec. I had a feeling that the hub was going to be the Lurch's Achilles heel.


Doesn't sound good. I'll keep an eye on mine.

Let us know how it goes with the replacement hub.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Good Morning! I want to thank everybody who has posted here. It has been a help for me. Pulled the trigger on a 22 Lurch today. With all the posts I will check all the little possible problem areas before rolling off on that first ride. Lube and tighten the QR's, clean the seat post and seat tube and tighten the clamp, align the brakes. I am right about 200 lbs and I do not ride that hard with pedal mashing so I am not expecting the freewheel/hub to be a problem for me.
I am a Surly guy ( LHT and Ogre ) but I just did not want to plunk down $2700 bucks for an Ice Cream Truck on a bike that I am not sure how much I will ride or like. BD is a pretty good alternative to get into the fat bike platform and try it out. Worst case is, I will not like it and can turn around and sell it, especially looking how popular they are and the trouble everybody is having getting shipping in. Best case is, I will love this bike and ride it a few years and then be ready to upgrade to the ICT. I am pretty damn stoked to get this in and tinker with it and ride it and mess around with the air pressures and just have fun!!


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Jim Bangs said:


> Good Morning! I want to thank everybody who has posted here. It has been a help for me. Pulled the trigger on a 22 Lurch today. With all the posts I will check all the little possible problem areas before rolling off on that first ride. Lube and tighten the QR's, clean the seat post and seat tube and tighten the clamp, align the brakes. I am right about 200 lbs and I do not ride that hard with pedal mashing so I am not expecting the freewheel/hub to be a problem for me.
> I am a Surly guy ( LHT and Ogre ) but I just did not want to plunk down $2700 bucks for an Ice Cream Truck on a bike that I am not sure how much I will ride or like. BD is a pretty good alternative to get into the fat bike platform and try it out. Worst case is, I will not like it and can turn around and sell it, especially looking how popular they are and the trouble everybody is having getting shipping in. Best case is, I will love this bike and ride it a few years and then be ready to upgrade to the ICT. I am pretty damn stoked to get this in and tinker with it and ride it and mess around with the air pressures and just have fun!!


Welcome Jim! I've been "on the Lurch waiting list" since November and like you can't
wait. Hopefully they will be here soon!
Ed


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

By the way, I went to order up some pedals for this and the computer is asking me a thread size, 1/2" or 9/16". Which do I order to fit Lurch crank arms?? Thanks!


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Jim Bangs said:


> By the way, I went to order up some pedals for this and the computer is asking me a thread size, 1/2" or 9/16". Which do I order to fit Lurch crank arms?? Thanks!


9/16"


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Well, we are now 3 for 3. 3 in my group bought Lurch bikes and all 3 have now had rear hub failures. The last hold out called last night to advise me that his free hub body had cracked. Novatec does not respond to e mails or answer the phone. Not sure what to do next. Maybe call Bikes Direct and see if they have a different contact.

SVEN98, Get a Lou on there, it is night and day compared to the snowshoes in deep snow. If ya can swing it get the Bud also, way better on off camber trails. Save the Vee Rubber tires for summer.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> Well, we are now 3 for 3. 3 in my group bought Lurch bikes and all 3 have now had rear hub failures. The last hold out called last night to advise me that his free hub body had cracked. Novatec does not respond to e mails or answer the phone. Not sure what to do next. Maybe call Bikes Direct and see if they have a different contact.
> 
> SVEN98, Get a Lou on there, it is night and day compared to the snowshoes in deep snow. If ya can swing it get the Bud also, way better on off camber trails. Save the Vee Rubber tires for summer.


Maybe try to get the ABG hub? Support will probably just send you the same freehub model as what you got now.

Wheel Parts-FREEHUBS 11SPD


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> Well, we are now 3 for 3. 3 in my group bought Lurch bikes and all 3 have now had rear hub failures. The last hold out called last night to advise me that his free hub body had cracked. Novatec does not respond to e mails or answer the phone. Not sure what to do next. Maybe call Bikes Direct and see if they have a different contact.
> 
> SVEN98, Get a Lou on there, it is night and day compared to the snowshoes in deep snow. If ya can swing it get the Bud also, way better on off camber trails. Save the Vee Rubber tires for summer.


My freehub's fading fast. The first few times I got in there to check things out, everything looked perfect. With the longer days, I've been adding the miles these last few weeks, and its taking its toll. Almost all snow riding too. Not alot of dirt showing around here right now. Getting skipping, scoring of freehub body as if its flexing into the ratchet ring, and deformation around the bases of the pawls. I noticed that the 2015 D202SB-AA Novatec hubs are claiming 5 bearings, where as these are 4 bearing units. Wonder what they've changed? I also noticed that Novatec implicity warns against using unspidered casettes with individual rings on their alloy freehubs - unlike what was spec'd on the Lurches from BD.


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

Hmm seems like people are having a good amount of issues with their Lurches


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

watermonkey said:


> My freehub's fading fast. The first few times I got in there to check things out, everything looked perfect. With the longer days, I've been adding the miles these last few weeks, and its taking its toll. Almost all snow riding too. Not alot of dirt showing around here right now. Getting skipping, scoring of freehub body as if its flexing into the ratchet ring, and deformation around the bases of the pawls. I noticed that the 2015 D202SB-AA Novatec hubs are claiming 5 bearings, where as these are 4 bearing units. Wonder what they've changed? I also noticed that Novatec implicity warns against using unspidered casettes with individual rings on their alloy freehubs - unlike what was spec'd on the Lurches from BD.
> View attachment 959074


My mitigation plan is to replace the PG-1030 with an XT cassette. The lower gears are mounted to a spider carrier to spread the load out over the freehub. I'll spend $60 to save myself the trouble of dealing with a blown freehub. Looks like it will save a few grams too!


----------



## WesternMD (Jan 25, 2005)

Which ones are the "sex months"??? Been married for 13 years and it is still a little more regular than that...


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## Auzyman (Oct 23, 2014)

WesternMD said:


> Which ones are the "sex months"??? Been married for 13 years and it is still a little more regular than that...


Best post ever


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

has anyone else had any movement on their shipment tracking for those of us that ordered a rigid-fork Lurch?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

dgw, 
That's what I did. The XT cassette prevents the gouging on the cassette carrier but it doesn't prevent the cracking where the palls are. Does anyone know if anyone makes a steel free-hub that fits this hub?? I've searched but can't find anything.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> dgw,
> That's what I did. The XT cassette prevents the gouging on the cassette carrier but it doesn't prevent the cracking where the palls are. Does anyone know if anyone makes a steel free-hub that fits this hub?? I've searched but can't find anything.


Did you check out the ABG freehub? I don't think it's steel but it's supposed to be stronger than stock.

Edit: I see. The ABG is anti bite guard. One of the splines is steel.

https://www.bdopcycling.com/Wheel Parts-FREEHUBS 11SPD.asp

Relevant


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Great link dgw2jr

Wheel Parts-FREEHUBS 11SPD

In addition to the available hub options I wonder if they have a through axle option for the Lurch hubs so cure the slipping QR. I run a TA on the King hub I have on my Air9 and I prefer that setup.

Anyone tried this?


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Archangel6 said:


> Great link dgw2jr
> 
> Wheel Parts-FREEHUBS 11SPD
> 
> ...


Like some others here, I bent my Novatec skewer handle trying to prevent slipping. The Paul 190mm skewer solved those problems for me. You can get it a lot tighter a lot easier.

Quick Release Skewers from Paul Component Engineering


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Also, Archangel, they do have through axle end caps. Try contacting [email protected] for the end caps. I was able to get 15mm thru end caps for the Bluto directly through him once they were in stock, although it took a while


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Also, Archangel, they do have through axle end caps. Try contacting [email protected] for the end caps. I was able to get 15mm thru end caps for the Bluto directly through him once they were in stock, although it took a while


I actually have the Lurch w/Bluto on order (if it gets here before 2015 is over) so I'm good on the front end. I'm more interested in the read hub options at this point without going to a completely different hub option.


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## chromeeyes (Nov 18, 2014)

*frame bag*

Just an fyi - I can't remember if this was posted here before, but I have a medium Lurch and the Ibera large frame bag fits like it was made for it and for 10% of what a relevate bag costs I figure it's worth a try. I "get" why you'd buy a relevate bag and they're really cool, but for my uses this will be great. Figured that if y'all weren't looking for a deal you would have bought a Salsa anyway.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

No movement on my shipping yet for a rigid lurch.


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

What fenders do you have on that sweet looking Lurch?


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## chromeeyes (Nov 18, 2014)

Dave's mud shovel fenders by Portland design works. Real wide they keep the mud off me, but not my bottom bracket.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

*Cancelling Order...*

The repair/replace list is about as long as the waiting list.... I'm out!!! I'll wait to buy a used one from someone that has worked the bugs out and has blinged it out.

I will advise how easy or difficult cancelling an order with Bikes Direct will be. So far I have emailed them. I will call customer service later today.

In the mean time, I'll keep riding my custom studded 29er on Lake Superior.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

murph007 said:


> The repair/replace list is about as long as the waiting list.... I'm out!!! I'll wait to buy a used one from someone that has worked the bugs out and has blinged it out.
> 
> I will advise how easy or difficult cancelling an order with Bikes Direct will be. So far I have emailed them. I will call customer service later today.
> 
> ...


Makes sense depending on your situation.

I already have a few items on the way to make the bike more mine.....and I figure even with some changes/upgrades (which I would probably make to any bike) I will still be many $ ahead of a comparable Salsa, Surly etc.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

Thinking of cancelling my Lurch order and going with a Borris X9. Seem like similar specs, just an AL frame. I prefer steel, but really want to ride ASAP. Thoughts on Lurch vs Boris X9?


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

histrionicus said:


> Thinking of cancelling my Lurch order and going with a Borris X9. Seem like similar specs, just an AL frame. I prefer steel, but really want to ride ASAP. Thoughts on Lurch vs Boris X9?


Lurch - 190, 70.5° HA, X9 triggers, Novatec hubs, Vee Snowshoe, better fork.
Boris - 170, 70° HA, X7 triggers, NoName hubs, Vee Mission, worse fork.


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## distracted (Jan 16, 2015)

The Boris X7 comes with Vee8 tires. While not the greatest (self-steer under 10 PSI), they do have a better reputation than the Vee Missions that come on the X5 and X9. Still not sure about the reliability of the hubs, but then there have been failures with the Novatec hubs, too.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Cancelling the Lurch order with Bikes Direct was painless and received prompt response from Paypal that the purchase was refunded. Good luck to all you Lurchers out there!!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

I have to give a thumbs up to Bikes Direct. After many attempts , that were ignored, to contact Novatec regarding hub failure I contacted Bikes Direct to see if they had another contact address. Bikes Direct sent me out another wheel and didn't ask for the defective one back. I'm very impressed with BD customer service.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I've been tempted to cancel my order a few times now but there is no other fat bike out there that compares for the money. Every time I'm tempted to call the LBS about a Specialized Fatboy I think how I'm going to spend more for lower quality components. I'd rather have higher end components than a rigid, carbon fiber fork.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

ak-rider said:


> I've been tempted to cancel my order a few times now but there is no other fat bike out there that compares for the money. Every time I'm tempted to call the LBS about a Specialized Fatboy I think how I'm going to spend more for lower quality components. I'd rather have higher end components than a rigid, carbon fiber fork.


And the same cranks, and worse brakes, worse shifting components etc.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> I have to give a thumbs up to Bikes Direct. After many attempts , that were ignored, to contact Novatec regarding hub failure I contacted Bikes Direct to see if they had another contact address. Bikes Direct sent me out another wheel and didn't ask for the defective one back. I'm very impressed with BD customer service.


That is awesome!


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## Shinkers (Feb 5, 2014)

Are the hub issues here really worth being concerned about? I think these things look amazing, but it's a lot of money (for me) for a mechanical problem to pop up sooner rather than later.


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## Bizarro (Apr 20, 2006)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> I have to give a thumbs up to Bikes Direct. After many attempts , that were ignored, to contact Novatec regarding hub failure I contacted Bikes Direct to see if they had another contact address. Bikes Direct sent me out another wheel and didn't ask for the defective one back. I'm very impressed with BD customer service.


That is too cool!!I thrashed my rear hub shortly after receiving my Lurch back in Oct.. I'm a torque monster at 250 anyway so I kinda new it was coming so I invested in a Hope Snopro and wow... awesome! few upgrades with bud and lou and my own bars...stem...saddle..etc... great bike!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

More kudos to Bikes Direct. My new wheel showed up today, as promised, and it has a new Snowshoe tire mounted on it AND (wait for it) THE FREE HUB IS STEEL !!!!!! I guess Novatec realized they had a problem. I just wish I knew Bikes Direct was going to go above and beyond expectations before I spent a bunch a money on a new wheel from the shop I work at. Oh well it's always good to have a spare.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> More kudos to Bikes Direct. My new wheel showed up today, as promised, and it has a new Snowshoe tire mounted on it AND (wait for it) THE FREE HUB IS STEEL !!!!!! I guess Novatec realized they had a problem. I just wish I knew Bikes Direct was going to go above and beyond expectations before I spent a bunch a money on a new wheel from the shop I work at. Oh well it's always good to have a spare.


don't take it personally but you sound like one of those guys who could break titanium so at some point you will put it to good use =P

A++ for BD they are always good like that.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I suspect the new Lurches will come with upgraded an upgraded hub.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> More kudos to Bikes Direct. My new wheel showed up today, as promised, and it has a new Snowshoe tire mounted on it AND (wait for it) THE FREE HUB IS STEEL !!!!!! I guess Novatec realized they had a problem. I just wish I knew Bikes Direct was going to go above and beyond expectations before I spent a bunch a money on a new wheel from the shop I work at. Oh well it's always good to have a spare.


You scored. BD offered to sell me a steel freehub body at cost, you got a wheel, hub and tire, free. I bought two, since Novatec is so hard to find parts for. My steel freehubs should be here Monday. How many pawls are in the steel freehub body on the replacement wheel BD sent?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

watermonkey, 4 pawls (I spelled it correctly, unlike in previous posts). If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge for the steel freehub? I would like to have a spare around.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

$20, shipped, but that was the warranty agreement per BD. Might be more, and probably will, if just looking for spares. I'm pretty psyched about the possibility of a 4 pawl steel freehub. This makes me a little more interested in swapping out to enduro bearings on this hub knowing that the freehub isn't disposable. I'm a little confused on this however, as one Novatec catalog listed the D202SB as a 4 bearing hub, and another catalog as a 5 bearing unit. When the Sturgis Bullet finally gets off the boat, I'm going to tear down the Lurch hub and look into this. A few of the LBS keep trying to push Hopes on me, but there's no way I'm paying that high of a price for a hub with known cratering issues. I'm also going to begin looking into a solid axle for both the Lurch (QR) and Sturgis (12mm thru). I carry so much crap with me as it is, a wrench for a bolt on hub is inconsequential. I really believe that hub flex is what's trashing every hub on the market on these 190mm setups.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

That's funny, the wheel showed up in a cut down Sturgis Bullet box. When it showed up I noticed that the freehub looked different so I ran for the fridge to grab a magnet and sure enough it's steel. I pulled it all apart, because that's what I do, and I see 2 bearings in the freehub and 3 in the hub itself. 
Anyway, I rode 15 miles of snowmobile trails today with a buddy who has an Icecream Truck. It was a workout but not as fun as riding singletrack, plus it was 10 degrees F and windy so that didn't help.


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## evilunclefred (Feb 1, 2015)

Just ordered a Blue Lurch Bluto medium. Tons of great info in this thread. Time to order some lock on grips, hope skewer, pedals and extra tubes. Now the waiting game begins.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

evilunclefred said:


> Just ordered a Blue Lurch Bluto medium. Tons of great info in this thread. Time to order some lock on grips, hope skewer, pedals and extra tubes. Now the waiting game begins.


Welcome to the waiting list Uncle Fred! From what I gather its worth the wait!
Ed


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

The blue ones are much faster than the other ones. I haven't had an issue with the stock skewers slipping since the paint wore off the drops. My greatest improvement to my lurch was the addition of Bar Mitts. Now if I could just keep my feet warm. Even if you have to wait til spring, it'll be worth the wait. These things are incredibly fun to ride, like a monster truck with two wheels. Over 700 miles on mine since September and the novelty has not worn off yet.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

A little Lurch racing! 9th overall!


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks for the photos and video! Gives us on the wait list some hope. How did you feel the Lurch faired against the major manufactuers Fat Bikes. Did you feel held back by any aspect of it? Congrats on the 9th place for the #9 entry plate.
Ed


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

The one thing about it that is no surprise is that its heavy. Not a real big deal, but if you wanted to compete on a higher level/use your fatbike for racing a lot, I would recommend something a bit lighter. That being said, I beat quite a few Yampas, fatboys, farleys, etc... So I think it does the job! The top three positions were Beargreases and Yampas. One Yampa had the new HED carbon fiber wheels with Dillingers setup tubeless. It was pretty awesome.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

msedbaue said:


> The one thing about it that is no surprise is that its heavy. Not a real big deal, but if you wanted to compete on a higher level/use your fatbike for racing a lot, I would recommend something a bit lighter. That being said, I beat quite a few Yampas, fatboys, farleys, etc... So I think it does the job! The top three positions were Beargreases and Yampas. One Yampa had the new HED carbon fiber wheels with Dillingers setup tubeless. It was pretty awesome.


Thanks! My race time will be limited and recreational at this point in life. I always see peolple thinking they can buy speed. If it makes a huge difference then it justifies the expense but "great golf clubs a'int gonna make me Arnold Palmer either". Glad to hear it does the job.
Ed


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

I bought mine for the same reason, fun winter riding. It is a blast to ride (and fun to race, just more work!)


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Novatec steel freehub bodies - 4 pawl*

I received the steel, 4 pawl freehub bodies from BD today. Let the pedal mashing continue.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> I received the steel, 4 pawl freehub bodies from BD today. Let the pedal mashing continue.
> View attachment 961025


Do you know if we can we buy these as a spare part from BD?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Rex, I'm not sure, but I'd definitely give it a try. Since I was buying one at cost to replace the damaged existing one, I queried them if I could purchase two, so I'd have a backup for the Sturgis as well (if it ever gets here). I got two, so I guess it was OK by them. I'd really like to see BD start keeping some of this stuff in stock for its customers (and the thru axle/qr adapters as well) since Novatec small parts don't seem to exist outside of the OEM world. I can say, its just in time. I think the number of miles left on the existing freehub are numbered, in single digits. I sure hope the ratchet ring isn't trashed.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

msedbaue, I sure enjoyed the video!! Nice road to ride on. I must say, it looks like you have perfected the jogging, swing the leg over mounting technique!!


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

I ordered a rigid orange in 22" on 1/24/15. I just got a shipping notification that a label had been created for shipping on 2/13. Perhaps this is just BD pre-processing the order, but hopefully this means they are anticipating sending out some bikes soon!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Watermonkey, I'll bet your ratchet ring will be OK. The teeth on mine looked new. I think it was just a fluke that the ring separated from the hub.(HOPEFULLY) I wonder if all the new ones will be shipped with the steel freehub? Maybe that is the delay in shipping everyone is experiencing.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Rex, I'm not sure, but I'd definitely give it a try. Since I was buying one at cost to replace the damaged existing one, I queried them if I could purchase two, so I'd have a backup for the Sturgis as well (if it ever gets here). I got two, so I guess it was OK by them. I'd really like to see BD start keeping some of this stuff in stock for its customers (and the thru axle/qr adapters as well) since Novatec small parts don't seem to exist outside of the OEM world. I can say, its just in time. I think the number of miles left on the existing freehub are numbered, in single digits. I sure hope the ratchet ring isn't trashed.


Thank you sir. I will give it a try.


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## evilunclefred (Feb 1, 2015)

Just got an email with a UPS shipping label for 2/16, but the email also said there could be a 3-5week delay


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Jim Bangs said:


> msedbaue, I sure enjoyed the video!! Nice road to ride on. I must say, it looks like you have perfected the jogging, swing the leg over mounting technique!!


Thanks! Unfortunately I got to use it a little more than I wanted too!


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

rex615 said:


> Thank you sir. I will give it a try.


I'd move quickly. BD, as of this morning, only had 3 left in stock. They were also unsure if future novatec spec'd bikes would have alloy or steel freehub bodies, but that Novatec was aware that alloy one were cratering. Good luck.


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## NuMexJoe (Jan 12, 2004)

IIRC, the Lurch has shorter chainstays, too. I count that as a positive.



djrez4 said:


> Lurch - 190, 70.5° HA, X9 triggers, Novatec hubs, Vee Snowshoe, better fork.
> Boris - 170, 70° HA, X7 triggers, NoName hubs, Vee Mission, worse fork.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> I'd move quickly. BD, as of this morning, only had 3 left in stock. They were also unsure if future novatec spec'd bikes would have alloy or steel freehub bodies, but that Novatec was aware that alloy one were cratering. Good luck.


Thanks again Watermonkey (cool handle by the way). I have just sent them an email, lets see if i can still snag one.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Sorry guys, but don't get your hopes up. Just got an email stating the last week in Feb. as the shipping window for the Lurch I ordered in Nov. (Ridgid, 20" Black). I am so bummed as I am going to N Carolina(Kitty Hawk ) and Wife and I will be staying right on the beach @ the Hilton. Hoping to get some beach riding in. She has a Boris but it appears I may need to rent something. Now I need to find a neighbor to sign for the Lurch 'cause I know it will come while we are away. Guess it sucks to be me!(Not really)
Ed


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

I just got an email this morning that my bike was going to be delayed another 2-3 weeks. That did it for me. I called an LBS and put a deposit down on a base model Fatboy and then cancelled my order. BD now has a 16" orange Lurch available. Canceling my order was painless and I got a full refund. Being in Alaska shipping on the Lurch was $150 so the Fatboy while more expensive was not a huge leap in $. 

I was really looking forward to my Lurch but I just got sick of waiting. I ended up getting the last small size Fatboy the LBS had in stock. I'm looking forward to finally having a bike as we move towards the nicer part of winter. I got to thinking and suspect the shipping delay would start affecting bike store stock as well. 

I have to admit that even though I was okay with Motobecane painted on my downtube, I could never really silence my inner bike snob and not having a "brand name" bike did bother me. I guess I'm vain. I do take some relief that now I don't have to explain what a Motobecane is. Everyone knows the Specialized brand and if I decide I don't like this style bike, resale will be higher and easier. I don't like that the components are lower end but ultimately the frame is more worth upgrading and I've ended up upgrading every single bike I've bought or frame I've built. 

Hopefully the Lurches come in sooner for everyone than my pessimistic outlook believed!


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Eh...doesn't change my plans at all. I can always go skiing.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

*Bluto*

I just Blutofied my original Lurch 1.0 ride (Nurse Ben style) with 100mm travel and the Cane Creek angleset, 0 degree 57mm external cup. It slackened my head angle by 3 degrees and rides like a beast. It's geo is very similar to the Ice Cream Truck....very happy with this upgrade. Also got 45NRTH Cobrafist pogies and Dave's Mud Shovels on.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

cavedweller32 said:


> I just Blutofied my original Lurch 1.0 ride (Nurse Ben style) with 100mm travel and the Cane Creek angleset, 0 degree 57mm external cup. It slackened my head angle by 3 degrees and rides like a beast. It's geo is very similar to the Ice Cream Truck....very happy with this upgrade. Also got 45NRTH Cobrafist pogies and Dave's Mud Shovels on.


If I may ask, where did you get the end caps to convert the front hub?


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

I called BD...had them in hand 3 days later. Plenty of clearance btw...


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

*Freehub*

Check your freehub. The lurch has been popping in the smallest cog in both chainrings. It was only happening occasionally (like going up a big hill) but now I can make it pop on my driveway. Removed the cassette which took me 20 minutes becasue it dug in... and saw this. I only have 150 miles!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

West Coast Ports Could Shut Down in Days, Cripple Asia Trade - NBC News


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Not good news Dirty Thirty. Hopefully the container that has our orders in it is part of the 50% that is moving through the backup!!


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

I called BD and told them of my free hub fears...free new steel free hub in route.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

cavedweller32 said:


> I called BD and told them of my free hub fears...free new steel free hub in route.


wtf? They are charging me $29 for a steel one.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Not sure...I've been in contact with them a lot regarding the bluto upgrade, missing hub caps...pedals...etc...they have always hooked me up no problem.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

sven98 said:


> wtf? They are charging me $29 for a steel one.


me too


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

cavedweller32 said:


> I called BD and told them of my free hub fears...free new steel free hub in route.


CD - do you already have your Lurch? I have yet to receive mine, but considering all of the FH issues I'm 1/2 tempted to email them about it now.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

sven98 said:


> wtf? They are charging me $29 for a steel one.


Yeah, fairly inconsistent response from BD on this. I got mine for $20, you guys paid $29, but someone got a whole wheel and tire for free. Go figure. The being said, I've got three days in on the steel freehub and have yet to hear or feel a pop or ping, when it was pretty consistent before. I could care less about the gouging, which is where I think most of the pinging was coming from as the rings bit deeper into the alloy and shifted under load. What had me really concerned on the alloy one was the deformation of the center of the body below the pawl pocket, effectively reducing the contact area of the pawl in the ratchet ring, and causing it to engage at a less than optimal angle. So, while I think it is [email protected]# that we even had to pay for these, consider it money well spent if it keeps you riding and be happy that we were able to get Novatec repair parts, and and upgrade at that. I've got a feeling that fatbike hub parts of any kind are going to be on the lean side for a while until the west coast port crap settles out. Bdop doesn't have the steel ones, and while Bikefettish is listed as a distributor for Novatec, the phone has never been answered any of the 5 times I've called to inquire about Novatec hub parts.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

I have had mine since october....it's the original lurch....I just added the bluto myself...see pics a few posts back.


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

Does anyone know where to get touch up paint for the orange lurch??? I kicked the crap out it with my cleat...on accident....and chipped the paint pretty badly. Oh btw
..the bluto is no good at 9 degrees...it completely collapsed. I read they are not recommended below 20 degrees and now I know why....now gotta get the Turnagain cold weather upgrade seals....damn


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

Thinking of switching my order from a Lurch to a Fantom FB5 2.0 or 3.0, which BikesDirect has in stock and can ship now. The port worker situation doesn't seem to be getting better anytime soon and I want to ride. The Fantom seems like a good deal. Any thoughts on the Lurch vs. Fantom? And the Fantom 2.0 vs. 3.0? Thanks for the input.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Can some post up these numbers from a Large (20") pretty please.

Thanks in advance !!



Appalachian_Kamper said:


> I've a 22" framed Lurch. I measured 36" at the head tube and 31.5" at the seat tube.
> 
> View attachment 935066
> View attachment 935067
> ...


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

histrionicus said:


> Thinking of switching my order from a Lurch to a Fantom FB5 2.0 or 3.0, which BikesDirect has in stock and can ship now. The port worker situation doesn't seem to be getting better anytime soon and I want to ride. The Fantom seems like a good deal. Any thoughts on the Lurch vs. Fantom? And the Fantom 2.0 vs. 3.0? Thanks for the input.


Does anyone know if anything is being done to address the West coast port receiving/delivery issues? I purchased my Lurch in Nov. for a January 9th shipment and have been "rescheduled" 2 times and am now a month overdue. I am beginning to think it may be time to explore other options. Anyone know anything about the situation??
Ed


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

West Coast ports could shut down in next 5 days - Silicon Valley Business Journal

The situation doesn't look good. I ordered a Lurch in early December. Just cancelled it and ordered a Fantom FB5. It will arrive on Thursday. Will be riding it next weekend . Too much uncertainty with the Lurch.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

histrionicus said:


> West Coast ports could shut down in next 5 days - Silicon Valley Business Journal
> 
> The situation doesn't look good. I ordered a Lurch in early December. Just cancelled it and ordered a Fantom FB5. It will arrive on Thursday. Will be riding it next weekend . Too much uncertainty with the Lurch.


Thanks Histrionicus (I think)! I too want to ride especially since my wife received her Boris in Nov. and been really enjoying it. My luck tends toward me cancelling the order and buying something else and the ports and workers resolving their issues the next day.
Oh well!
Ed


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Just curious if anyone is using a 30t RF NW single ring on they're Lurch and do you like it. I'm debating a 30t or 32t 1x10 when mine gets here. Also, safe to assume that the Samox crank is 104BCD?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I spent the whole day getting these Weinmann rims converted to tubeless. One trip to Walmart, one trip to home depot, another trip to Lowe's and I finally got everything set up. They've been holding at 20psi for the last three hours. Hopefully they'll still be inflated in the morning.

I was concerned about bead security but when I unseated them to add sealant it took more force than I expected.

Here's what I used:

http://m.lowes.com/pd/GORILLA-2-88-in-x-90-ft-Black-Duct-Tape/3391254
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Dow-3-12IN-FOAM-SEAL-ROLL/50071519


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

dgw2jr said:


> I spent the whole day getting these Weinmann rims converted to tubeless. One trip to Walmart, one trip to home depot, another trip to Lowe's and I finally got everything set up. They've been holding at 20psi for the last three hours. Hopefully they'll still be inflated in the morning.
> 
> I was concerned about bead security but when I unseated them to add sealant it took more force than I expected.
> 
> ...


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

giff07 said:


> Please keep us posted on how you faired!
> Ed


It's been 15 hours and they are still holding.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

dgw2jr said:


> It's been 15 hours and they are still holding.


Awesome. I would prefer to use this method of ghetto tubeless than the split tube method. I would be interested in results when you do ride them and air pressure/conditions. Is there anything you learned or would do differently.
Thanks for your time.
Ed


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Ship unloading resumes at West Coast ports amid labor dispute - LA Times



> Ship unloading resumes at West Coast ports amid labor dispute
> 
> Dockworkers resumed unloading ships at West Coast ports Monday after employers suspended those operations over the weekend amid an ongoing labor dispute.
> 
> ...


Looks like we're back in business for the moment.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I have a 30t with a 42 oneup kit for mine. But..... its still on back order so I cant tell you how thats working out for me lol. Personally Id take the 30t over 32 for 1x10. I got to test out a Trek 1x11 and felt like it was a solid combo using a 30T and the big bail out. The OneUp kit with a 30T is about as close as you can get to the 1x11 set up with out going full blown drivetran upgrade. Id say it also depends on what you are riding and how strong you are. Your not going to lose any massive speed going 30T but you could really need that smaller gear if you have gnarly climbs

104BCD as well for the cranks


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

djrez4 said:


> Ship unloading resumes at West Coast ports amid labor dispute - LA Times
> 
> Looks like we're back in business for the moment.


Well thats good news, Thanks!
I contacted BD on Facebook and through customer service asking what the situation was and what was being done and got the standard "thanks for being a good Bikes Direct customer" for the third time. In the end they told me there was nothing new to report and I should email my senator and congressman about solving the problem. I immediately told them I didn't feel their response was acceptable. WTF????
Ed


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

giff07 said:


> Well thats good news, Thanks!
> I contacted BD on Facebook and through customer service asking what the situation was and what was being done and got the standard "thanks for being a good Bikes Direct customer" for the third time. In the end they told me there was nothing new to report and I should email my senator and congressman about solving the problem. I immediately told them I didn't feel their response was acceptable. WTF????
> Ed


And the acceptable response would have been? "Hi! We're bikes direct and we can solve all the world's problems. Please stand by while we wave our hands and make the ports open again!"

Or you can cancel or change your order to get a bike that's in stock?


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

bump on getting measurements from someone that has a large Lurch sans bluto at the head tube and the seat tube from the ground.

Thanks in advance.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

dgw2jr said:


> And the acceptable response would have been? "Hi! We're bikes direct and we can solve all the world's problems. Please stand by while we wave our hands and make the ports open again!"
> 
> Or you can cancel or change your order to get a bike that's in stock?


Thanks again for the info! Don't misunderstand, but after the third time since Nov. the stock answer has worn itself thin. All I was asking for was an update. If you are able to obtain the information then why aren't they. I wanted an update to be able to decide wheather I should cancel, rethink my decision on the Lurch(change to something in stock) or wait it out a little longer. I did explain that I really wanted the Lurch but was concerned the labor/ port negotiations were at a standstill. They provided me with no information at all. Having paid for the bike in Nov. I would think they could offer more than that. While I do not appreciate your sarcasim and attitude I do thank you again for your information. 
Ed


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

I posted the info. Not Sarcasmo.

While our screennames may be the same length and start with the same letter, I post because I care (and because I'm also waiting on my Lurch).


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

djrez4 said:


> I posted the info. Not Sarcasmo.
> 
> While our screennames may be the same length and start with the same letter, I post because I care (and because I'm also waiting on my Lurch).


I do realise that the other post came from a different source. That person and I were involved in a tubeless tire info exchange hence my thanking him for his info. In re reading my post I can see the thought of confusion. I apologise for any confusion. Your info on the ports reopening gave me some hope that perhaps we will see our fat bikes in the near future. Fingers crossed!
Ed


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

giff07 said:


> I do realise that the other post came from a different source. That person and I were involved in a tubeless tire info exchange hence my thanking him for his info. In re reading my post I can see the thought of confusion. I apologise for any confusion. Your info on the ports reopening gave me some hope that perhaps we will see our fat bikes in the near future. Fingers crossed!
> Ed


Sorry, Ed. The following comment struck a chord with me and I reacted harshly.



> I immediately told them I didn't feel their response was acceptable. WTF????


I have heard this many times. A company I once worked for was in a similar situation with a union. It's hard to tell a customer you can't produce something you've promised them because of reasons beyond your control. When someone tells you your response is unacceptable, how do you respond to that? Thank them for their observation? Apologize again and again until they grow weary of the conversation? Lie to them and tell them they'll have product first thing in the morning?

I have no doubt BD is shaking in their boots and soiling themselves waiting for a resolution on this issue because they probably feel exactly the same way I felt in that similar situation. This is like a make or break the business type thing. The latest news is good but it still seems up in the air. I hope you guys get your bikes soon because they are pretty damn awesome!


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

dgw2jr said:


> Sorry, Ed. The following comment struck a chord with me and I reacted harshly.
> 
> I have heard this many times. A company I once worked for was in a similar situation with a union. It's hard to tell a customer you can't produce something you've promised them because of reasons beyond your control. When someone tells you your response is unacceptable, how do you respond to that? Thank them for their observation? Apologize again and again until they grow weary of the conversation? Lie to them and tell them they'll have product first thing in the morning?
> 
> I have no doubt BD is shaking in their boots and soiling themselves waiting for a resolution on this issue because they probably feel exactly the same way I felt in that similar situation. This is like a make or break the business type thing. The latest news is good but it still seems up in the air. I hope you guys get your bikes soon because they are pretty damn awesome!


No worries my friend! I hope for our sake and theirs the differences are ironed out soon and we can all carry on!
Ed


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Archangel6 said:


> Just curious if anyone is using a 30t RF NW single ring on they're Lurch and do you like it. I'm debating a 30t or 32t 1x10 when mine gets here. Also, safe to assume that the Samox crank is 104BCD?


I'm using a Next SL with a 28T N/W flipped ring. This keeps the Q-factor narrow (202mm) and the chainline centered (75mm). I'm using a WolfTooth 42T ring on the rear cassette. Haven't dropped a chain. I had some mild knee problems with the wide Q-factor of the Samox crank that are gone since I switched.

For biking in snow, this gearing is perfect for me. For the summer I'm planning on switching to a 30T up front. However, summer is already here in the southwest mountains...


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

*Snowmobiling*

I got out and rode about 15 miles of snowmobile trails today. This was very difficult as we keep getting snow and thus the trails are not very packed down yet. I'll try to attach some photos.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

well, there was another one but it won't download.:madman:


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

There it is! It's interesting what you see waaayyyyy out behind the farms.:skep:


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

A sweet old Scout? Nice!!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Was a sweet Scout, about 35 years ago! They don't make them like that anymore. New 4x4 s are all posh and civilized. Even my base Tacoma 4x4 has air conditioning a fancy stereo with CD player and a lot of speakers, cloth seats and carpeting.


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

My UPS account is showing movement on my Lurch. 
Scheduled Delivery Updated To:
Tuesday, 02/17/2015, By End of Day


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

mtbfs29 said:


> My UPS account is showing movement on my Lurch.
> Scheduled Delivery Updated To:
> Tuesday, 02/17/2015, By End of Day


Just curious which one you ordered (Bluto/ridgid) and when.


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

Bluto I ordered it in September


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

mtbfs29 said:


> Bluto I ordered it in September


Welp - that gives us hope!!


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Hallelujah!

:rockon:

But mine has no movement.

:smallviolin:


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

HMMM, I was just about to cancel and go with a Fatboy cause I can have in tomorrow. I will give it until the middle of the week, if I don't see any movement on my order I will go that route. I understand this was out of their control but I want to ride, and not having a fatbike is driving me insane since I've already paid for it.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

djrez4 said:


> Hallelujah!
> 
> :rockon:
> 
> ...


Mine either! Hope they ship soon. Its good to see some positive results at least!!
Ed


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## Wisconsinite762 (May 24, 2014)

Bought a used Lurch today, will hopefully get it to my local trail tomorrow! Has a carbon bar, studded tires, and a Hope rear skewer, otherwise it's stock. My plan is to just the ride the snot out of it as is, and only repair/replace things as needed.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I sent an email out this afternoon asking about whats up with the shipping date for the Lurch's with Bluto's. I am NOT going to cancel my order as I have everything I want for it sitting in my closet waiting for the bike but this last few weeks of waiting is dragging for me. I keep looking at the sample picture of the Gray Lurch and drooling.

Im sure they are going to say soon some time with in the next week but I just gotta get some form of an update. This would be week 3 if I am not mistaken.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

dgw2jr said:


> It's been 15 hours and they are still holding.


I can pretty much guarantee you that the gorilla tape method does not work with the stock Lurch. It will hold air, but it will burp when riding, especially in the rear tire and at low pressures. Also, at low pressures the tires deform so much worse without a tube. I could see a crack forming after a lot of use with these tires.

I am thinking of trying the split tube method once things warm up a bit. Has anyone had any long-term success with split tube this winter at low pressures?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Barheet said:


> I can pretty much guarantee you that the gorilla tape method does not work with the stock Lurch. It will hold air, but it will burp when riding, especially in the rear tire and at low pressures. Also, at low pressures the tires deform so much worse without a tube. I could see a crack forming after a lot of use with these tires.
> 
> I am thinking of trying the split tube method once things warm up a bit. Has anyone had any long-term success with split tube this winter at low pressures?


Yes...do it.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Barheet said:


> I can pretty much guarantee you that the gorilla tape method does not work with the stock Lurch. It will hold air, but it will burp when riding, especially in the rear tire and at low pressures. Also, at low pressures the tires deform so much worse without a tube. I could see a crack forming after a lot of use with these tires.
> 
> I am thinking of trying the split tube method once things warm up a bit. Has anyone had any long-term success with split tube this winter at low pressures?


Gorilla tape works great if you can make it work, some rims you have to build up the side walls almost to the point you might as well just use split tubes. Also some have had good luck using foam in the center and then gorilla taping like a mofo. Also the tape can lose its stickiness and come undone. One of my friends had that happen a few times when doing the tape method on his Moto FB4 Rims

Split tube is great and works very well but you need to make sure you tires dont get to to low that you can burp the tire off the rim. Split tube will hold better then gorilla tape. The only downside to it is if you cut your split tube extremely close to give it a really clean look dismounting the tire can make your split strip useless so leave a bit more flap so if you need to dismount the tire for any reason you can reuse the strip.

I went split tube on a bunch of my MTB's for a while as a project last year. They held up great and once mounted they never lost air or burped. I ended up going back to tubes as I felt safer not having to be worried about setup failing or blowing a tire off the rim. It does work and will hold up in the cold just as good as any other ghetto method.

Btw my friend is still running split tubes in the winter and they are holding up just fine.
-------------------------------------------------

Also got this email in the morning:
Hi Ian,
Thanks for your email and order.
We did get a few of them in on a container of other bikes that showed up
but it was literally only a handful of that model (1, maybe 2 in random sizes and colors).
We were able to ship to the first couple of people who ordered but that was it.
As soon as your bike comes in you will be receiving an email stating it has arrived
and will be shipped.
If there is anything else I can help you with, please let me know.
Thanks again,
Karla

So it seems like we are still just waiting with out any real idea when they are coming in.


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

Great news my Lurch was delivered today. I'm going to assemble it tomorrow. I'll try to post a few photos


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Barheet said:


> I can pretty much guarantee you that the gorilla tape method does not work with the stock Lurch. It will hold air, but it will burp when riding, especially in the rear tire and at low pressures. Also, at low pressures the tires deform so much worse without a tube. I could see a crack forming after a lot of use with these tires.
> 
> I am thinking of trying the split tube method once things warm up a bit. Has anyone had any long-term success with split tube this winter at low pressures?


I continued this conversation in another thread. I was not confident in the tape and foam setup from the get go so I went with split tube. I have about 50 miles on the split tubes this weekend riding in Cedar City, Flagstaff, and Sedona. Tomorrow we'll throw in a few more miles here in St. George and Hurricane. No burps and no pressure loss so far.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

mtbfs29 said:


> Great news my Lurch was delivered today. I'm going to assemble it tomorrow. I'll try to post a few photos


I hate you!!


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

I've discovered that "works" is a relative term when dealing with the foam and gorilla tape tubeless. At trail pressures (>10 psi), I get no burping and I feel very confident with this setup, so for the summer it might be OK. 

At pressures under 10psi though, expect some burping. I've been able to get by with 5psi or so for snow riding as long as I make sure I check the pressure every time I stop and add some air as necessary. Maybe 2 or 3 times a ride. Kind of a pain in the ass.

It might also be worth noting that the foam that I used tends to get a bit waterlogged and the Stans seems to disappear under the top layer of tape and into the foam, making my wheels heavier every time I add more. The foam also compresses over time, and if you decide to change tires after a couple months you might have to redo your foam and tape. I've gotten very quick at this now. :madman:

In my opinion, the pain in the ass factor for setting the wheels up tubeless is a major downside of the stock Lurch. I haven't tried the split tube yet, but I'm still waiting for my easy tubeless carbon wheelset if that gets here someday...


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

mtbfs29 said:


> Great news my Lurch was delivered today. I'm going to assemble it tomorrow. I'll try to post a few photos


Congrats - glad to hear they're coming in!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bike'nSplit said:


> :madman:
> 
> In my opinion, the pain in the ass factor for setting the wheels up tubeless is a major downside of the stock Lurch. I haven't tried the split tube yet, but I'm still waiting for my easy tubeless carbon wheelset if that gets here someday...


I must be a Luddite and won't win any popularity contest for saying this, but for me, tubeless just isn't worth the apparent hassle. Granted I haven't actually tried it on my own bikes, but have had to deal with it out on the trail.

Maybe when more tubeless friendly wheels are commonplace.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Rolling resistance is night and day - makes the fat bike speed penalty a lot less noticiable


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

Archangel6 said:


> I hate you!!


Don't hate me because I have a Lurch, hate me because I ride better than you.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Rolling resistance is night and day - makes the fat bike speed penalty a lot less noticiable


This is where I think the potential lies. It would make the tires behave as though the sidewalls were more supple, particularly at the low pressures fat bikes use.


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## bbucey (Jun 2, 2010)

Just saw on BD FB page that just about every other Fatbike is now in stock, except the Lurch. Would be nice if the technology was available where they could actually track their shipments and provide some updates to their customers. At least be able to say that the bikes are off the cargo ships and in route to their warehouse or something that would give us hope.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

I feel for you guys that have been waiting so long. I ordered mine the last week on January and I am feeling antsy, so I can imagine how some are feeling with orders pending for so long.


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## Nurse Jim (Feb 17, 2015)

When did you order yours? I placed my order in December and still patiently waiting.


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

Got my 18" orange lurch today!!! Rigid Fork. I ordered at the end of Dec.

A few comments/observations...
1. Not a scratch on it. It looks great. Very satisfied with the orange. 

2. The cable to the front derailleur will need to be re-routed to the front of the seat tube. The way it is set up now, the cable is about 1/8" from the rear tire. 

3. I replaced the rear stock skewer with a Hope that I ordered ahead of time. After comparing the stock with the Hope, its easy to see the difference in quality. 

4. One of the hex head screws in the horizontal drop-outs was bent pretty badly. I replaced both long screws with two shorter ones that I screwed in from the other direction to avoid those, too, bending.

5. No pedals. I can't recall? Did others get platform pedals with their Lurchs?

6. The front rotor was not installed. The directions call for a T25 bit that can inserted in a torque-able tool. My buddy is a bike mech and has one, so no big deal. I just wanted others to be aware of this.


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## weekness (Feb 18, 2015)

histrionicus said:


> Thinking of switching my order from a Lurch to a Fantom FB5 2.0 or 3.0, which BikesDirect has in stock and can ship now. The port worker situation doesn't seem to be getting better anytime soon and I want to ride. The Fantom seems like a good deal. Any thoughts on the Lurch vs. Fantom? And the Fantom 2.0 vs. 3.0? Thanks for the input.


Did you switch your order? I did.


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## Nurse Jim (Feb 17, 2015)

weekness said:


> Did you switch your order? I did.


I was tempted to do as well. But hearing that some have made their way in, I'm hoping more will trickle in.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

MattinTC said:


> Got my 18" orange lurch today!!! Rigid Fork. I ordered at the end of Dec.
> 
> A few comments/observations...
> 1. Not a scratch on it. It looks great. Very satisfied with the orange.
> ...


Pics or it didn't happen....


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

rex615 said:


> I must be a Luddite and won't win any popularity contest for saying this, but for me, tubeless just isn't worth the apparent hassle. Granted I haven't actually tried it on my own bikes, but have had to deal with it out on the trail.
> 
> Maybe when more tubeless friendly wheels are commonplace.





Bike'nSplit said:


> Rolling resistance is night and day - makes the fat bike speed penalty a lot less noticiable





rex615 said:


> This is where I think the potential lies. It would make the tires behave as though the sidewalls were more supple, particularly at the low pressures fat bikes use.


Goatheads. Nuff said.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

dgw2jr said:


> Goatheads. Nuff said.


I won't argue with that. If I had to deal with that curse, then I am sure tubeless would be a necessity not a choice.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

Yup. It arrived last week. Fun to ride for sure. The Lurch is a better bike for the money, but those Lurches are on a barge anchored offshore, the Fantom is in my shop. Big difference.



weekness said:


> Did you switch your order? I did.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Nurse Jim, I ordered mine on January 24th, so, I have not been waiting as long as most of the guys here. It is still my High School basketball season ( I coach) so, not much extra time for riding until the end of this month. Then I hope it arrives magically on my door step!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Stans or Homebrew in my tubes has saved me and I know it works. If I had stuff like goatheads yeah I might consider going back to split tube but for me what works and gives me no issues is keeping it simple. Have a tube in my MULE and only ever needed to change a flat on the trails once and bolder I blasted trying to hit a KOM would have killed anything tube or not lol.

Tubeless does have some +'s but it also has some hype behind it. I know tons of people who rave about going tubeless and then I go see how air they are running and its rock hard and you just think to your self why even spend the money. If you can get it to work and you feel confident with your self up / using it to your benefit then more power to you!

On a side note last night on the news they actually had been talking about the ports backed up. I was cracking not thinking BD was making it up but I didnt actually think it was as bad as they said it was with those pictures till they showed some footage on the news.

I had some great snow miles in this afternoon on my Nashbar fat bike and while riding I couldn't help but dream about what some of the trails would be like with the fork to suck up the hiking tracks =O


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

When you place your order?


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

mtbfs29 - when did you order yours? -


mtbfs29 said:


> Great news my Lurch was delivered today. I'm going to assemble it tomorrow. I'll try to post a few photos


----------



## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

MattinTC said:


> Got my 18" orange lurch today!!! Rigid Fork. I ordered at the end of Dec.
> 
> A few comments/observations...
> 1. Not a scratch on it. It looks great. Very satisfied with the orange.
> ...


How do you like the fit of the 18"/medium ? What's you height/inseam?

Have you checked the hub body to see if they switched out to the steel yet?


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## mtbfs29 (Jan 17, 2015)

Reman said:


> mtbfs29 - when did you order yours? -


September


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

mtbfs29 said:


> September


Thanks - I ordered mine in mid January...and this is the latest email I received from them: Hi,
Thanks for your email and order.
As it turns out, we have not received any new updates as of yet and
are still waiting on your bike to arrive. We think they should be here w/ in the next week or 2
as of right now.
As soon as we hear something or they show up, we will notify
all customers immediately.
Thanks again,
Karla


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

From Facebook -



> ‪#‎WARNING‬: Any day now- some of these ‪#‎fatbikes‬ will be available and ‪#‎INSTOCK‬ smile emoticon Could be Today. Keep watching closely smile emoticon
> Save Up To 60% Off Fat Bikes and Fat Mountain Bicycles from bikesdirect.com
> ‪#‎bikesdirect‬ ‪#‎snowbikes‬ ‪#‎fatbike‬ ‪#‎mtbr‬ ‪#‎fatwallet‬ ‪#‎slickdeals‬ ‪#‎walletpop‬ ‪#‎motobecane‬ ‪#‎mountainbikes‬ ‪#‎rockshox‬ ‪#‎bluto‬


Looks like the FBs and the Boris models showed up, but no sign of the Lurches yet.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

For those of you that received yours, how does it work??? Will there be an e-mail telling me that it is on the way, or, does it just show up one day???


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Since I cancelled my Lurch order and while everyone else is waiting... I have been riding my recently purchased 2014 Pugsley that I got on Craigslist for $1100. Nothing needs fixing or replacing.... Sigh!! Hope you all get your bike soon.....


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Glad to hear some of you guys are getting your bikes. Hopefully they are shipping with the steel freehub body. With the steel one it has been much quieter with more positive engagement. I'm up to almost 850 miles on my lurch so far, here's a pic of some deep snow down hillin' we did today. Too much snow now, on much of the singletrack, but the snowmobile trails are pretty good. Good luck putting some 4.8 or 5.0 s on that Puglsly Murph.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I checked my tracking number yesterday and it says shipment information voided so IDK if they got some in or because the label is so damn old. Hopefully it will be shipped soon. Had some great miles in the snow this afternoon on my other fatty so Im still just holding out!!! BD has a few or had a few other fat bikes with forks in my size available for shipping but if it isn't steel I really have no interest in it long term.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

There's no denying, the Lurch is a tough deal to beat. Great specs at a great price. Now they just need to ship them.


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## evilunclefred (Feb 1, 2015)

With more snow on the way yesterday and more coming this week, I cancelled my order for a lurch bluto and went to my lbs. 50+ fat bikes in stock. Got a deal on a leftover fatboy. I'm happy, should have done this from the start.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

I will move on to my Pugsley forum now!! Still enjoying riding my sub-standard, minus 5 inch tire bike ( waiting for the Motobecane 15" tire frames ) 

We had Wisconsin Public Television helicopter crew film 26 local bikers riding across Lake Superior to Madeline Island for their "Wisconsin From The Air" program.

Enjoy riding!! And don't wait forever to do so!!

Photos


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Murph.... "Server not found" Cant see the pictures!

Maybe because I have a fat bike I still cant bring my self to go with anything other then the Lurch Bluto. Possibly because for the price its also the best fat bike with a fork out at the moment even if its locked up on some crate! If you are going for the ridged version then yeah there is some awesome options out. I must say I do really like the way the Fatboy looks in that Army Green. Those ground control tires look really aggressive


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

murph007 said:


> I will move on to my Pugsley forum now!!


Enjoy your bike and remember you are still welcome to hang out here.


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## murph007 (Jan 4, 2015)

Thanks, I get the email alerts when someone posts here. 
Here's some pics of the group a mile out on Lake Superior. Waiting for video from Wisconsin Public Television. And another link that should work.
I bought a 2013 Pugsley Necromancer - If you notice the microshifters are under the handle bars is because I can't stand not being able to flip the bike over to work on it. I just put my favorite shifters on it - SRAM X.O Gripshifts. No matter how cold my hands I can always shift these.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

So I Paid $100 more for the Fandom FB5 2.0 than a Lurch. It seems to me that the Lurch is superior in every spec over the FB5: rims, hubs, derailleurs, shifters brakes.... but, for some reason, Bikesdirect lists the FB5 2.0 has having a higher retail price at $2999 compared to the Lurch at $2599. Why? I'm really thinking of selling the FB5 I have when the Lurches start to ship and getting a Lurch because they are a much better bike. There are no options in my town for new fat bikes from local shops for less than 2K (!), so I'll be able to sell the FB5 without losing much on the resale price. Bikesdirect is really on to something by having a diverse selection of fat bikes with good specs for ~1K.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

histrionicus said:


> So I Paid $100 more for the Fandom FB5 2.0 than a Lurch. It seems to me that the Lurch is superior in every spec over the FB5: rims, hubs, derailleurs, shifters brakes.... but, for some reason, Bikesdirect lists the FB5 2.0 has having a higher retail price at $2999 compared to the Lurch at $2599. Why? I'm really thinking of selling the FB5 I have when the Lurches start to ship and getting a Lurch because they are a much better bike. There are no options in my town for new fat bikes from local shops for less than 2K (!), so I'll be able to sell the FB5 without losing much on the resale price. Bikesdirect is really on to something by having a diverse selection of fat bikes with good specs for ~1K.


Dont ever go by a retail price they are always all over the place. No offense but you paid more for less or just to have it now vs waiting for the lurch to ship. I wouldnt have spent that much on the FB5. The Brut is a bit nicer of a bike and a bit less if you wanted Aluminum and a OS headtube for later fork swapping!


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

No offense taken. I knew what I was doing. Best riding of the year is Feb and March here and I've got a lot of miles on the FB5 already, miles I wouldn't have if I waited for the Lurch.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

well im sure you can recap some of the cash and if you think of it as getting the miles you wouldnt have then its a win win or at least thats what id do =P


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## UT29ers (Mar 1, 2012)

First of all, I must say I'm one lucky SOB! Sounds like I'm the only one that has received his Lurch.

I placed the order in late Dec, and my Lurch FS arrived last Friday. Box had a 6" hole on the side upon arrival. Luckily no damage to bike or components. Packaging inside was impressive, and setting it up was a breeze. I put it together in a couple of hours.

I'm 5"101", and the 20" fits great with a 70mm stem. I hope this helps others with sizing.

I read the entire Lurch Lounge thread before I mine ordered in Dec. Past issues have been addressed: Rear steel hub, rear Novatec skewer is now knurled to prevent slipping (none notice during maiden ride, see below), lockout on read derailleur for ease of removing rear wheel.

BTW, also ordered a 29er wheelset from BD as my "summer wheels", and these fit great - plenty of clearance all around, and hub on these wheels is also steel. Funny, the wheels showed up a week after I ordered. So I had the 29er wheels for more than a month, but no bike.

Maiden ride today, and all I can say is wow. Very Impressed! The Lurch worked flawlessly, and the Bluto 120 is awesome. Luckily we had some fresh powder today, after a month of dry, rare spring-like weather here in Utah. Hopefully I can still ride in snow over the next month.

In summary, patience my friends! Resist the urge to cancel. It'll be well worth the long wait. I almost cancelled mine a couple times. Glad I held out. BD put together a killer package. You're getting a heck of a deal. Awesome components for the $, and a frame that rides great based on one ride:thumbsup: I've been riding for 15+ years, plus I have a couple of high end 29er bikes for comparison currently in my stable. I know, I have THE disease! I normally don't keep bikes long, but I can see myself riding this thing a lot of miles.

Here is proof that my Lurch did arrive.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Lucky dog! Looks good! Cant wait for mine to ship maybe this week!


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## UT29ers (Mar 1, 2012)

Ian, Yeah, not often I get lucky. Hopefully ya'll get your bikes soon. Good luck!


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

That looks so nice! Good for you!! I have been patient and will continue to be so....but....a little more antsy. Our bball season ended abruptly this weekend so now I have the time and wish I was riding a fat bike in the snow!!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

UT29ers, Looks nice. The blue ones are the fastest by the way (guess what color mine is?) I wish I could send you 3/4 of our Lake Ontario snow. I'm not exaggerating when I say if you put a foot down off the trail you sink up to your hip. (or balls deep as my buddy likes to say).
Murph, If you get this I'm sorry if I offended you. I can understand the frustration of ordering something and not getting it. Especially a bike!!!


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Shipping lines and dockworkers reach deal; port shutdown averted - LA Times

Hopefully we'll see some movement!


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Archangel6 said:


> Shipping lines and dockworkers reach deal; port shutdown averted - LA Times
> 
> Hopefully we'll see some movement!


But they're also saying up to two months to push through the backlog. So, let's hope our bikes are on the first ship!


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

*Check out this Fat bike..*


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

I bet that has some self-steer.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

*Polishing a Lurch*

Pretty much doubled my investment, but quite a difference in rideability...


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

MaximumX said:


> Pretty much doubled my investment, but quite a difference in rideability...


Tires can make or break the bike, man. The stock tires rode like crap for me. They just felt dead, like I was using those solid rubber inner tubes from walmart. The investment in good tires is totally worth it.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Those looks like Nextie Carbon Rims and a carbon fork to me. Great looking Lurch. Did you keep the stock hubs or buy pre bilt wheels. What kind of fork is it and how much lighter did it make it. Next you will be going tubeless.:thumbsup:
Congrats on the upgrades.
Ed


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

giff07 said:


> Those looks like Nextie Carbon Rims and a carbon fork to me. Great looking Lurch. Did you keep the stock hubs or buy pre bilt wheels. What kind of fork is it and how much lighter did it make it. Next you will be going tubeless.:thumbsup:
> Congrats on the upgrades.
> Ed


Tubeless as soon as I get the valves! ;-)

Theyre not Nexties... Well, I didn't get them from Nextie. They seem to be pretty much identical, but I got them from Q2, built on Chosen hubs. Got the fork from them too.

All told, I'm about six pounds lighter... More when I get rid of the tubes!


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Very Nice! Like everyone else I'm still waiting somewhat patiently. Hoping to hear something in the next few days.
Ed


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Well, I've been playing with mine since September, so it was time to freshen it up a bit! ;-)


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Ed, I am there with you!!! It is hard to read how guys are modifying and improving their rides when I just want the bike to arrive and ride it!! First thing I do in the morning is check my e-mail to see if it is on the way.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Jim Bangs said:


> Ed, I am there with you!!! It is hard to read how guys are modifying and improving their rides when I just want the bike to arrive and ride it!! First thing I do in the morning is check my e-mail to see if it is on the way.[/QUfat bikes in early Nov. and my wife got her BorisOTE]
> 
> Me too Jim, the hardest part for me is we ordered the fat bikes in early Nov. and my wife got her Boris X7 right away. My biggest reservation at this point is the Lurch will arrive damaged in some way and there won't be a replacement. I thought about cancelling or changing my order to something in stock through either BD or locally but I really like the Lurch. I think we are on the downhill side of the wait at this point. Thanks for the co-miseration. I'm confident it will be worth the wait.
> Ed


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Nice, job, Maximum. I'm going to look into those Q2 rims. 

Could everyone else please stop talking about how you're waiting for your Lurch? It takes a long time to sift through all that.


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

Just got this great email from BikesDirect - I ordered on January 28th - hopefully a lot of people waiting on this forum will be getting their Lurch in the next few days
:
Hi, Thanks for being a smart cyclist and saving hundreds on your new Motobecane Fat Bike.

Update on your order - A container with SOME prepay bikes arrived, FINALLY! Now, this container did not have the entire shipment on it so you happen to be one of the lucky ones who ordered early. Please enjoy your new bike but understand there are still many other customers who are still waiting patiently.

We will be shipping your order today! Please track your bike using the UPS tracking # that was sent to you shortly after ordering your bike. If you do not see it, please check your spam folder. *If you need that info re-sent, please reply to this email and let us know.

Thanks again for being a smart cyclist and saving hundreds off your new Motobecane Bike.

Best regards,

The Friendly Folks at Bikesdirect.com


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Did you order ridgid or Bluto? Thanks for the update!!!
Ed


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

I ordered the Lurch Rigid.



giff07 said:


> Did you order ridgid or Bluto? Thanks for the update!!!
> Ed


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

I got the same. Orange Rigid 22". Ordered 2/2


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

EZSnow - Nice! Happy Days - still lots of snow where I live (New Jersey). Can't wait to get on and ride.



EZSnow said:


> I got the same. Orange Rigid 22". Ordered 2/2


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks for the quick responce. In between your post and my reply I received the same exact email. I ordered in early Nov. and a Black Rigid. So for all those waiting there is light at the end of the tunnel!
Ed


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

If you look at the Bluto Lurches it shows AVAILABLE!!!!! In a few sizes of each color sooooo I am praying that they are going to be going out as of today!!!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Just got my shipping notification also today !!! Rigid 20" orange. And we just got snow yesterday and are expecting more Sunday through Thursday, YIPPEEE !!!

I think I just jizzed in my pants... (aka The Lonely Island)


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Sorry about that Barheet. Was not my intention to waste your time.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Just got my shipping notice. Huzzah!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

djrez4 said:


> Just got my shipping notice. Huzzah!


As did I! Bluto Gray Size 18


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## evilunclefred (Feb 1, 2015)

Should have waited one more week. fml lol


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Jim Bangs said:


> Sorry about that Barheet. Was not my intention to waste your time.


I wouldn't lose any sleep over it Jim Bangs. Still 
appreciate your posting and mean what I said. It appears Barheets issues are solved after today anyway...... Good luck and enjoy your Lurch!:thumbsup:

Ed


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

WTH..I had to cancel my order back in August (Wife decided to buy a house) and have been off this thread for a while. I came back and since BD website did not say anything about the bike not being in stock I ordered a Bluto grey 18" Lurch. Now I'm reading this and people are still waiting for their bikes?


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

To clarify - Lurch Fatbikes with Rockshox Bluto Forks are instock. All preorders of those have shipped. Site has been updated to show what's now instock.
Note- Dallas TX has frozen roads and this will cause some delays for UPS movements/tracking updates. Happy Riding


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

joebikesdirect said:


> To clarify - Lurch Fatbikes with Rockshox Bluto Forks are instock. All preorders of those have shipped. Site has been updated to show what's now instock.
> Note- Dallas TX has frozen roads and this will cause some delays for UPS movements/tracking updates. Happy Riding


NICE! Thank you!


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## 2002 Sport (Feb 13, 2015)

joebikesdirect said:


> To clarify - Lurch Fatbikes with Rockshox Bluto Forks are instock. All preorders of those have shipped. Site has been updated to show what's now instock.
> Note- Dallas TX has frozen roads and this will cause some delays for UPS movements/tracking updates. Happy Riding


Hey Joe, can you confirm if the preordered Sturgis Bullets also shipped?


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## Dolbydarma (Mar 16, 2013)

Lurch with bluto weight???

I've scrolled through this forum for a couple days and just can't find an actual full bike weight. Even a bathroom scale weight would be great. If it happens to be a 20" even better 

Thanks everyone! 😃


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

100mm BB FSA Comet Fat Bike Cranks will clear the oem tire with ~ half inch to spare, so no need for a 120mm crank.

Happy riding.


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## Dolbydarma (Mar 16, 2013)

No one's weighed there Bluto Lurch?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

My 22 inch rigid Lurch is just a hair under 40 lbs with Shimano 540 pedals, a water bottle cage, seat pack with a tube. So it ain't no lightweight. It is fun to ride though and I have about 870 miles on mine now. If you're obsessed with weight this is the wrong bike.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> 100mm BB FSA Comet Fat Bike Cranks will clear the oem tire with ~ half inch to spare, so no need for a 120mm crank.
> 
> Happy riding.


 So I can just get said crank and bolt it on? No need for those stupid aluminum spacers on the stock crank? Can you post pics? Now that I have the rear hub sorted I would like a better crank set.


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## Dolbydarma (Mar 16, 2013)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> My 22 inch rigid Lurch is just a hair under 40 lbs with Shimano 540 pedals, a water bottle cage, seat pack with a tube. So it ain't no lightweight. It is fun to ride though and I have about 870 miles on mine now. If you're obsessed with weight this is the wrong bike.


Thanks!


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> How do you like the fit of the 18"/medium ? What's you height/inseam?
> 
> Have you checked the hub body to see if they switched out to the steel yet?


Sorry for the delay responding. I'm 5'9" with a 32 inseam and this bike fits like a glove! I don't know my bike part names, but the my good friend is a former bike mechanic (14 years in Portland OR) and we disassembled just about everything. The hub inside the rear cassette is pretty lightweight-looking aluminum. Everything else was really solid.


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## MattinTC (Dec 29, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Pics or it didn't happen....


Took it for my first real ride this morning. I love this bike!


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## cfanto (Oct 13, 2010)

*sizing for 5'6" w/ 29" inseam*

I've been lurking in the Boris, Sturgis/NightTrain forums as I wait for BD to restock their inventory. I originally dismissed the Lurch because of the steel frame but now I'm having a change of heart (esp. since they have sizes available to fit me)... so I began reading this forum & drooling at all the pics.

So now, I'm trying to figure out the best size for me. Based on BD's sizing recommendations, I should get an XS (14") Lurch. But that just seems waaaay too small. I'm curious if anyone else my size went w/ a Small (16") Lurch instead of the XS? And for those that do have the XS, are you still able to fit a frame bag?


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Hmmm.... I'm 5'8"with a 30" inmseam and I bought the 16. I ended up putting on a slightly longer stem and low-riser bars to tweak the fit. Standover is generous.... Based on your measurements, I'd be looking at the 16" too, but that's just me.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

I one-uped and did the 1X10 on my lurch.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

sven98 said:


> I one-uped and did the 1X10 on my lurch.


What are you running up front?


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Archangel6 said:


> What are you running up front?


Looks like an X5 crank with a RF n/w 30t. Did I guess right?


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

djrez4 said:


> Looks like an X5 crank with a RF n/w 30t. Did I guess right?


 Thats it!


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

sven98 said:


> Thats it!


Great - thanks! I'm going to start with a 32t n/w and drop down if needed.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

The angles on this thing are a bit nuts. BB drop is, to my eye, negligible. Good thing I'm just putting the parts on a IP019.









(No, it's not fully assembled)


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

Yeah I agree. the 120mm fork is too long for this frame.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

djrez4 said:


> The angles on this thing are a bit nuts. BB drop is, to my eye, negligible. Good thing I'm just putting the parts on a IP019.
> 
> View attachment 969200
> 
> ...


Thats not a bad idea! I never thought of that. Keep us posted. Are you going to run the Bluto or the carbon fork?


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Xpcgamer said:


> Thats not a bad idea! I never thought of that. Keep us posted. Are you going to run the Bluto or the carbon fork?


Both! I'll start a new thread about it.


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## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

What size frame is that? After you swap over the parts, I might be interested in the frame.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

deuxdiesel said:


> What size frame is that? After you swap over the parts, I might be interested in the frame.


18". It'll have the stem, bars, seatpost and FD as well.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

djrez4 said:


> 18". It'll have the stem, bars, seatpost and FD as well.


Good to know people are interested in the left over Frames .


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

djrez4 said:


> 18". It'll have the stem, bars, seatpost and FD as well.


Yup, interested in an 18" frame as well.


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

Has anyone tried the 29er wheelset offered by bikes direct? Just wondering how the lurch felt with the wheel swap. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk


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## Claim-jumper (Jan 8, 2015)

soon...:thumbsup:


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## Claim-jumper (Jan 8, 2015)

*real substance, very engearment?*



djrez4 said:


> The angles on this thing are a bit nuts. BB drop is, to my eye, negligible. Good thing I'm just putting the parts on a IP019.
> 
> View attachment 969200
> 
> ...


Smug, yet very thorough unveiling of a bike that many of us have been patiently waiting for. I very much look forward to your upcoming thread on how you have "beaten the man" and achieved the holy grail of the cheapest carbon fat bike hack known to man. Good thing you aren't just wasting our time, you know, with the thorough and very detailed report that you have bestowed upon us common steel framers that have been waiting for this bike to ship...

By the way, you should really check out Dave's website (engearment.com) as it is very, 'engaging' - Their motto: "We love gear as much as you do, but we understand that sometimes, life gets in the way of finding the perfect gear for your next excursion. So, we want to share our knowledge and experience with you."

Good luck with the bluto clearance issue on that POS carbon frame...and thanks for sharing your 'knowledge' to the Lurch Lounge forum


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

Thanks for telling people to head to the website. I also appreciate your critique of my post. Is there something you'd like to know about the Lurch?


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

djrez4 said:


> Is there something you'd like to know about the Lurch?


Just curious about the point of your comment "The angles on this thing are a bit nuts. BB drop is, to my eye, negligible."


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

It means that the Lurch is not a suspension corrected frame, that BD slapped a 120mm suspension fork on without consideration of what it would do to the geometry of the bike.


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

They don't list an axle to crown measurement with the geo spec on their bikes. That's been a red flag for me ever since I've been interested in them. Suspension corrected is just a buzz word. I've been wanting to bury the "suspension corrected" term. From here on and out "suspension corrected is a dead term.


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## djrez4 (Apr 6, 2012)

watermonkey said:


> It means that the Lurch is not a suspension corrected frame, that BD slapped a 120mm suspension fork on without consideration of what it would do to the geometry of the bike.


Basically this.

If they put any thought into the geometry (or even if they just copied the Pugs), the bike would have certain handling characteristics. Increasing the A/C significantly will change the handling of the bike. Whether it's good or bad, I can't say. When I had one, I thought the rigid Lurch could have used a slacker HT angle.

Tossing a 120mm fork on there without any design consideration is a bit silly, but it could still be loads of fun. My comment on the BB drop was just the first thing that caught my eye and was a symptom of throwing the fork on there without changing the frame.

I'm sure someone with framebuilding experience can provide better insight.


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

kidd said:


> They don't list an axle to crown measurement with the geo spec on their bikes. That's been a red flag for me ever since I've been interested in them. Suspension corrected is just a buzz word. I've been wanting to bury the "suspension corrected" term. From here on and out "suspension corrected is a dead term.


I really don't know what exactly you're trying to argue for here. I, too wish that bikesdirect would supply the A/C measurements on their bikes, rather than me having to buy the bike and measure myself. What I don't understand is why you want to get rid of "suspension corrected" term.

On a 2015 salsa mukluk, the A/C is 483mm. On a Surly Ice Cream Truck, the A/C is 487. Both are listed as suspension corrected.

The A/C measurement for a 80mm bluto fork with 25% sag is 483mm. This means that if you swap the stock forks on either the mukluk or ICT, the listed frame angles will still be applicable and the bike will ride as designed.

The A/C measurement for the stock lurch fork is ~465mm. The A/C of a 120mm bluto fork is 531mm. This means that the bike will handle very differently with a 120mm bluto than it does stock.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Doorbell just rang !!!


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## kidd (Apr 16, 2006)

I don't understand what you want me to explain? You seem to have a firm grasp of the problem. What fat bike has an axle to crown of 531mm? Salsa may be trying to set their bikes apart .to justify someone paying a higher price.


rain100 said:


> I really don't know what exactly you're trying to argue for here. I, too wish that bikesdirect would supply the A/C measurements on their bikes, rather than me having to buy the bike and measure myself. What I don't understand is why you want to get rid of "suspension corrected" term.
> 
> On a 2015 salsa mukluk, the A/C is 483mm. On a Surly Ice Cream Truck, the A/C is 487. Both are listed as suspension corrected.
> 
> ...


----------



## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Well mine is all built up, will take some pictures tomorrow of it but its a Gray Lurch W/Bluto size 18! Love it and have yet to get a ride on it =P 1x10 using the 42T OneUp Kit was easy to set up and actually didnt need to even tune the rear derailleur out of the box. I took the granny off and just went with the 30T Narrow Wide Race Face. I was going to leave the granny on for snow but over this weekend I got to demo a 1x11 Bucksaw and Beargrease. Since no one was at the demo due to weather other then a small amount I was able to horde them and get a nice solid 2hrs+ out on the trails with them. I found I didnt need more then what I had and actually had extra. Talking to one of the shop guys he said even 1x10 would be solid with my gearing.

Box came smashed to **** but actually not a scratch on the bike. Only thing I had to really do was tighten the left side BB cup and since I was taking the crankset off it was not really a problem. Paint looks great and happy I went with the gray, it looks like its brown in some light then changes to a Gun Metal look. Only thing I can say is the Hub that was sent out has the aluminum body so hopefully that would cause a problem and my left brake leaver bolt was almost stripped out from factory assembly. I probably have one in a bin. Also small mark around the FD clamp again over tightening. No biggie!!!

So mine is set up with:
740mm Bars
90mm Stem
30T RaceFace NW
42T W/16T OneUp cog kit
Stans in my tubes (Not tubeless just using it to seal up on the go)
Lock-On Grips
Shimano SPD's 

I also have a BBG Bash that I was able to mount on the outside of the crankset believe it or not using long chain ring bolts. But I wanna see if I tap the chain ring or chain at all before I use it. The 1x10 looks very nice and would like to leave it as is. Also sizing.... Very happy I picked the Medium 18. That thing is a monster with the front fork. The Bucksaw I demo'd was a large and it just felt like I was fighting the bike vs it nimble and compliant. Also if I dismounted Id probably get a junk full of top tube if I was to far forward!


----------



## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Pretty dang impressed with the fit and finish of the Lurch !

Slight adjustment on the low side of the RD and the drivetrain was spot on. Normal tweaking to the rims. No grease in the seattube. BB was good. Disappointed the rear hub body is still aluminum, must have just switched them on a couple... Rear disc brake was aligned perfectly. The rear skewer doesn't seem as bad as I thought from past reports but have a hope on the way for insurance. The cassette is spidered only on the largest two gears but have a XT cassette enroute.

My big gripe is that the front brake mount is way off. With the pads, in particular the outer, adjusted all the way out there is still major rubbing. The only way to correct it is to adjust the seating of the wheel in the dropouts so that one side isn't seated. I am not going to ride that way.

The only way I see getting it to work is having the BB7's mounting face milled 1-2 mm off or figuring out a way to attach something to the fork brake mount and seeing if bending it out some would help. The latter solution doesn't seem wise, the mount is so narrow and stout, and to be honest I don't like the first either...

...maybe adding a washer as a spacer on the inside of the dropout, don't like having to do that either...

Has anyone had to deal with this on theirs? I remember reading about someone dealing with the rear.

Recommendations welcome.


----------



## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

DirtyThirty said:


> Pretty dang impressed with the fit and finish of the Lurch !
> 
> Slight adjustment on the low side of the RD and the drivetrain was spot on. Normal tweaking to the rims. No grease in the seattube. BB was good. Disappointed the rear hub body is still aluminum, must have just switched them on a couple... Rear disc brake was aligned perfectly. The rear skewer doesn't seem as bad as I thought from past reports but have a hope on the way for insurance. The cassette is spidered only on the largest two gears but have a XT cassette enroute.
> 
> ...


I had the EXACT same issue on my orange 22". I was thinking the adapter was too thick, or the spacing wasn't correct on the end caps of the hub... neither seemed to be a problem. When I had the wheel out, I noticed the front tab of the left dropout was tweaked toward the center of the fork. When the skewer was tightened against the hub, it squared up the dropout, which in turn pulled the brake in too close to the rotor.

I used one of the cardboard tubes that was in the packaging to protect the finish and used a pretty large crescent wrench to get it back to straight. It's steel, so you can move it around a bit, but it's still a relatively small part, so go easy and only move it as much as you need to. I figured it was a shipping issue. Since the fix was so easy, I wasn't about to call the mothership for a solution.

Put 7 miles on it in the snow tonight. It was slow going, but that's because I haven't been on a bike since december... not the bike's fault!!


----------



## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I just want to let you guys know, IME, sealant in tubes does not work. A little over a month ago I thought I could get by on sealant in tubes but I picked up a ton of goat heads while riding in St. George and the tube didn't seal. It just blasted Stans all over the inside of the tire. 

The problem is that most tubes have some talcum powder or some other dry lubricant inside of them that the Stans bonds to. This leaves you with only the liquid component which doesn't seal punctures. You'll know if you have this problem when you can hear a large Stans booger bouncing around in the tube.


----------



## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

dgw2jr said:


> I just want to let you guys know, IME, sealant in tubes does not work. A little over a month ago I thought I could get by on sealant in tubes but I picked up a ton of goat heads while riding in St. George and the tube didn't seal. It just blasted Stans all over the inside of the tire.
> 
> The problem is that most tubes have some talcum powder or some other dry lubricant inside of them that the Stans bonds to. This leaves you with only the liquid component which doesn't seal punctures. You'll know if you have this problem when you can hear a large Stans booger bouncing around in the tube.


I have stans and homebrew in all my MTB and ONE road bike that I use in the rain as well as two cross bikes. Never had a problem with it and has saved me from walking or patching a few times. Heck a few months ago I found a torn in my one fat bike and pulled it out, hissed a few seconds and closed right up. I didnt even bother to pull the tube out and patch it its been going for months holding air.

Dirty that tab looks bent, you might have to just rig something to bend it over a MM. Its no big deal since its steel. I know someone who had the same problem on the rear brake tab and had to do the same thing to get it to work.


----------



## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

ian0789 said:


> I have stans and homebrew in all my MTB and ONE road bike that I use in the rain as well as two cross bikes. Never had a problem with it and has saved me from walking or patching a few times. Heck a few months ago I found a torn in my one fat bike and pulled it out, hissed a few seconds and closed right up. I didnt even bother to pull the tube out and patch it its been going for months holding air.
> 
> Dirty that tab looks bent, you might have to just rig something to bend it over a MM. Its no big deal since its steel. I know someone who had the same problem on the rear brake tab and had to do the same thing to get it to work.


Yes, a single solitary thorn would not have been a problem I'm sure. A couple dozen goat heads at 10psi? A whole 'nother story.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

dgw2jr said:


> Yes, a single solitary thorn would not have been a problem I'm sure. A couple dozen goat heads at 10psi? A whole 'nother story.


Well everything has its limits, I have seen tubeless setups fail from one small hole! Regardless it DOES work in a tube from small pinch flats or thorns. Just saying it does work or I wouldnt be adding the extra weight of the stans to my bikes. Also you can get stans balls in tubeless setups as well. I pulled a set of tubeless tires off a rim and there was some nice ones floating around. It could have been from a Co2 or just old dried up stuff.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

The rack I posted a while back about from either Bangood or Aliexpress would not work on the Lurch.

So I went up the street to ModernBike and picked up this one for 56 bucks [ Axiom Fatliner ]. Very sturdy and well put together with a Lifetime warranty.

I drilled new holes for the front rack mounts to allow the wider attachment spots on the Lurch to work since I wasn't buying a seat stay mount at this time. Fits great with plenty of room all around. The only concern I have is that it sits a little rear ward. I'll pass judgement after I get some rides under my belt with panniers.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)




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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Mine came today, already mostly assembled, just have to slap the front disc on and swap out some parts....Hope skewer, Ergons, lighter tubes, red rim tape etc. 

Impressed with the packaging and overall quality.

Paint is pretty nice actually.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Changed my calendar up to work from home tomorrow so I can sign for my Lurch. Just got a notice that due to weather my shipment may be delayed. "Yay!" Hopefully my date hasn't changed from tomorrow.


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## 779334 (Oct 10, 2014)

dirtyroadie66 said:


> View attachment 967265


That's not a fattie, it's obese!


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Finally got my 20" Lurch/Bluto setup. The comments lead me to believe that the sizes tended to lean toward the smaller side so I went with the 20" however @ 5' 11" w/32" inseam I've finding that the 20" is too big. So if anyone larger that I that feels their 18" is too small let me know and maybe we can swap frames (prefer grey)


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

I believe there was a guy stripping their Motobecane Lurch FS BLuto for the parts and I think it is an 18 inch. Let me try to find that thread and maybe you can get his frame?


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Found him - you might send him an IM? See if he'll sell you his frame? http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/lurch-lounge-928474-53.html#post11810041


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

I made a custom framebag for my Lurch.

DSCF5417 by Evan.Feekes, on Flickr

DSCF5415 by Evan.Feekes, on Flickr

DSCF5413 by Evan.Feekes, on Flickr


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

joebikesdirect said:


> Found him - you might send him an IM? See if he'll sell you his frame? http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/lurch-lounge-928474-53.html#post11810041


Thanks - I saw that post. I'll hang out a bit and if anyone ends up being on the same page and needing to swap.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Not trying to say "I told you so" But I was preaching to how many people to stay away from going up a size in this thread to the point I just gave up to save my fingers the aggravation of typing x.x Good luck hopefully that guy would be willing to swap or sell the frame!

I honestly couldnt even imagine riding the Large and with a bluto it would be out of the question that thing sits at such a monster looking stance its not even funny. Id be fighting the bike the whole time. Im just a bit over 5'10 and the Medium was perfect just like my other medium fat bikes.

Tomorrow I have an epic snow covered trail ride I am looking forward to with the Lurch! I had my 1st ride on it Wednesday and have been out sick the last two days. The bike is great and I am very happy with the purchase! I have a feeling my Nashbar fatty is going to be benched or used as my local across the street trail bike. OneUp kit and 30T ring worked great in the slushy slop I took it in so will find out how it does in the fresh snow tomorrow. After riding the 1x11's in ice and snow I have a feeling it will be great!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

I am absolutely happy that I went with the large rigid Lurch !!! 5'10" with 32.5 inseam.

Most of the talk of going up a size related to the rigid Lurch...

If I was doing the bluto I would have gone with the medium though.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

After my first shakedown run on my 18" Bluto Lurch.......I agree with the last few posts, I am 5' 11" and I have a Medium Cannondale which is a tad small from a frame perspective as well as a Medium original Ripley which is about right and a 19" Alibi HT that fits very well for a larger frame and the 18" Lurch with the Bluto is about perfect, any larger and it would look like Big Foot in blue.

A few early observations......so glad I have a Hope skewer to put on.....stocker is a bit of a POS and slipped pretty quickly, I cranked it up for now. 

The Snowshoes are gripping my very cold packed snow in northern VT fine so far.

I was ready to swap out grips ASAP but I might hold off as I will be using larger gloves with this beast.

Riding flats again with hiking boots feels very crude compared to my Sidis and SPDs.......feels really weird.

Looking down at a 4.5" tire and that large fork crown is pretty funny.....

The Bluto felt pretty good right out of the box and I like the compression adjustment.

Things shifted well right out of the box.

BB7s were cake to setup......and feel pretty damn good.....

I thought the stock stem would put me in a very stretched position, but honestly, it isn't too bad so far and it isn't an immediate upgrade like I thought it would be.

Is it heavy......yes and no.....my other bikes are reasonable ranging from 22.5lbs to 26lbs and while I think this beast with stock tubes is probably close to 40lbs.....when I'm riding it, it doesn't feel too bad and lifting the front end is easy.....

A few more shake down runs before I take a longer ride on this guy.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

I too, am very happy from both a quality and fit perspective of my large rigid Lurch. Would choose Med. if I bought a Bluto Lurch. Was able to get my exact fit measurements dialed to match my other MTB bikes. I am 5-11 1/2 with a 32.5 inseam. First real ride will be tomorrow and they will get longer as time goes on. It was definately worth the wait!
Ed


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## jllive (Mar 8, 2015)

Just a quick request for sizing... at 5'8.5 with a 30.5 inch inseam, would those of you with the Lurch recommend a 16" or 18" frame?
Cheers


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

jllive said:


> Just a quick request for sizing... at 5'8.5 with a 30.5 inch inseam, would those of you with the Lurch recommend a 16" or 18" frame?
> Cheers


Rigid or Bluto? What type of riding do you want to do on it? I sized according to my current 26'er MTB and feel very comfy on my Large rigid. If I was going suspension I would have gone to a Med. I am 5' 11 1/2 and of average proportions and weigh 175 lbs. The sizing chart puts me between Med and Large. My riding is many different terrain features from the beach to some reasonable hills and single track. FWIW.
I have only had my Lurch for 2 weeks but have already ridden on the beach, in the snow and some flooded, muddy, frozen single track and am very happy with my choice.
Ed


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## jllive (Mar 8, 2015)

Bluto. I'm 170lbs and ride mostly rocky single track trails in the AZ, CO and NM area .


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

I think for more technical terrain smaller is better IMHO. Hopefully those that own and have experience with the Bluto Lurch will chime in. I am in NJ and our trails go from fast and flowy to rocky single track and all in between. Mostly fast and flowy with small climbs where I am. I don't think you will be disappointed in the Lurch. A bit on the heavy side but a great dollar value.
Ed


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

I'm looking forward to pulling the stock tubes and putting in the Q tubes and reducing some of the rolling mass on the massive tires.

I think this bike is a perfect snow bike for me, unlike others I don't see myself abandoning my other rides for a fat rig during the summer, I can certainly see some rides being given to the Lurch in messy weather or just for kicks.

If someone is under 6' and has normal proportions I think you stay with the 18" frame with the Bluto........like I said, I'm 5'11" and the 18" is more than large enough and standover is reasonable but I'm tilting the bike to touch when on the seat as it does sit much higher than some of my other rigs.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I just ordered a Lurch Bluto (because it was in stock with the color and size I wanted).

Pretty sure Im going to want to get rid of the Bluto in favor of a carbon fork.

Is anybody going to want the Bluto? What's the thing worth....roughly?

Edited to add...it's a 16" bike, so the steerer will be too short for some bikes. Looks like with the included spacers it'll be good for 14, 16 and 18" frames, 20" frames likely only if set up with no spacers.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Well just got my Lurch and just slapped it together enough to throw it on the rack and drop it off at my LBS. The bike looks GREAT! It is not as heavy as I thought. I guess I am use to much heavier bikes but this feels good. I have Easton Carbon Bars, Easton Havoc stem, Easton Carbon seat post and Bontrager seat that are also getting put on. I also have Surly Holy Rolling Darryls wheelset and Fat B nimble tires so I can go tubeless. Hope to drop some more rotational weight. Pics when I get it back in my garage.


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## cfanto (Oct 13, 2010)

MaximumX said:


> Hmmm.... I'm 5'8"with a 30" inmseam and I bought the 16. I ended up putting on a slightly longer stem and low-riser bars to tweak the fit. Standover is generous.... Based on your measurements, I'd be looking at the 16" too, but that's just me.


Thanks MaximuumX!


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## cfanto (Oct 13, 2010)

*Lurch 14" pics anyone?*

Crap! looks like the 16" yellow is no longer in stock.

Does anyone have any side views of the 14" XS Lurch?
I saw jimmac23's black "Jimz Fatty" but looks like cockpit may be tight, but then again it may just be the angle of the shots... hoping someone has a direct side view so I can get a better visualization of how the cockpit may fit. Also, I believe he mentioned he was 5'5" and it looks like the seatpost is already extended quite a bit out. I'm 5'6" w/ a 29" inseam, so I'm concerned if I'd still be able to get enough leg extension w/ the 14" frame.

Thanks in advanced!


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

I'm waiting on a rigid 22" purple. Ordered at the end of January. No word if the ports are moving yet. Keep the pictures coming! They look great. I'm planning on using mine for a commuter - anybody ride theirs to work?


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

River19 said:


> I think this bike is a perfect snow bike for me, unlike others I don't see myself abandoning my other rides for a fat rig during the summer, I can certainly see some rides being given to the Lurch in messy weather or just for kicks.


That's what I thought when I first got this bike. Then I threw a Bluto and some tubeless lightweight wheels on, and my suddenly my "skinny" bike that I loved so much is relegated to commuter status. Definitely not saying fat is for everybody (like racers) but after lightening the bike up a bit, the speed penalty is minimal. The rougher the trail, the more speed you make up. The extra traction of the fat tires on the trail is addictive.

Of course its great as a snow bike. I've found that studded 4.8 snowshoes XL work better for snow. The stock Snowshoes run out of traction for icy conditions or snow deeper than 4" or so. 4.8" tires on 90mm rims will get me through snow to about 8" deep or so. We just got 14" over a couple days recently. Too much snow:









What to do? Put the stock tires back on and drive 45mins south to Sedona where the dirt is nice and tacky after a good soaking!





















God I love Arizona


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## Claim-jumper (Jan 8, 2015)

*Lurch Bluto Review*

I've had the 20" Lurch Bluto now for about a week and overall I am very impressed with the bike. I'm 6'1" and the large frame just barely fits me...if I was 1/2" shorter, I would have exchanged for a medium frame. This bike, with the Bluto, runs big.
The bike shipped without any damage, and assembly was very easy - requiring just a simple realignment of the disc brakes. I have approximately 100 miles ridden on the bike thus far and the only issue that I've encountered is slippage on the rear horizontal drop-out. The Novatec skewer is an utter POS and I have a Hope skewer on the way to replace it, as I have already bent the current skewer. I've been out of the bike scene for awhile, but I do not understand the logic behind the rear horizontal drop-out for a fat bike (my bike friends say it works well for single speed bikes...why in the hell would anyone single speed a heavy fat bike like the Lurch is beyond me). I find this to be the biggest flaw of the bike so far. My plans for the bike are not that extravagant, as I do not have the capital to upgrade on 'wants'. As of now, I have a Hope skewer and a 90mm stem on order. I also just received my Revelate Designs frame bag which fits the bike perfectly and am very pleased with. 
My first fat bike experience was 7 years ago on my friend's original Pugsly...I fell in love with it instantly, but not the price they were going for. I'm glad that I waited, as I feel that the Lurch Bluto is an amazing value and would recommend it to any novice/intermediate rider out there looking to get a fat bike. I've been out of the bike scene for too long and I'm glad that this is the bike that I chose to rekindled my passion for riding, which it most certainly has done.





















Trying to get in as many snow rides as possible...the weather here in SW Colorado has been extremely warm since I received the bike.

Cheers :thumbsup: and happy riding!

Sven


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

dledinger said:


> I just ordered a Lurch Bluto (because it was in stock with the color and size I wanted).
> 
> Pretty sure Im going to want to get rid of the Bluto in favor of a carbon fork.
> 
> ...


IIRC about $550-600ish


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

River19 said:


> IIRC about $550-600ish


Sweet. I don't think I'll ask for near that, but it'll pay for what I need it to pay for anyway.


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## Bokchoicowboy (Aug 7, 2007)

Question on fit of the Lurch, with or without Bluto:

I am curious about the reach on this bike, how stretched out are you over the bike relative to the standover sizing? Are the top tubes long relative to the height of the frame?

I am 6'1" average build 33 1/2 inch inseam. I figure the 20" would probably fit, but the 18 might be closer to what I need. This is an issue because I am one of those circus clowns who try to put offroad drop-bars on everything I ride. A shorter top tube is better for drops, but I have used a higher rise stem to make things work on other bikes in the past. I even had a drop bar on a GT LTS-1 that was pretty stretched out but a riser stem made it work. 

I am interested in this offering from BD as it has cable disc brakes, which would work with an existing bar/brake lever/shift lever setup I have waiting to be put onto a bike.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

I can speak to the 18" Lurch....5'11" here 32" inseam give or take (at least in pants)....I thought the 100mm stem would stretch me out and was thinking about dropping coin on a new stem before the bike ever showed up. glad I didn't as the stock stem is fine for me at this point. Maybe after enough miles I might feel different, but never once in my test riding (about 5-6miles) did I think about the stem or weight being too far forward etc.

I also found the bike easy to wheelie with and without pedal input, the chain stays feel relatively short for me so all in all it feels pretty comfy so far.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Hi - best way I have found to decide on a size of bike is to find out my current fave fitting bike's Effective Top tube and then pick whatever size has the most similar length. You can adjust the saddle and purchase a longer or shorter / taller stem to fine tune things if you need to. Hope this helps


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Does anyone know the axle to crown on the stock rigid fork?


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Great pictures BikenSplit!


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## hico (Mar 10, 2015)

newbie here. Ordered the Lurch on friday and received on Monday. I am now a member in good standing in the lurch Lounge. Now let the upgrades begin. Hope skewer, stans's to go tubeless, new tires etc... Need recomendations from the fat bike vets to fine tune this beast. See if I can keep the fat bike trend going down here in the lone star state. Great site by the way. I spent a lot of time on it before I decided to purchase the lurch instead of the farley or fatboy.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

dledinger said:


> Does anyone know the axle to crown on the stock rigid fork?


Should be the same as this fork:
FREE SHIP 48 STATES* FAT BIKE FULL CRMO FORKS PROMO SALE TAPERED CRMO STEERER, Fat Bike FULL CRMO FORKS

455mm (+/-2mm)


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Sweet. thank you! 

I was hoping that was the same fork.

This is great info. I didn't realize how little the weight the Bluto cost over the stock fork. Looks like about 100 grams before cutting the steerers, and notwithstanding any differences in axles/ end caps.

Conversly, the carbon fork will save about 2.1 lbs over the CroMo fork, and a little more over the Bluto.

Wonder how the handling will be with the 480 axle to crown. Still no where near as extreme as the Bluto at 531....before counting any sag.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Does anyone know were to order Novatec hub parts?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Archangel6 said:


> Does anyone know were to order Novatec hub parts?


http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=11731400


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

dgw2jr said:


> The Lurch Lounge - Page 46- Mtbr.com


Ha - thanks! Forgot about that post. Finally made contact with Henry @ Novatec. Hopefully he can answer my question and give me a place to go to so that I can order what I need.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Remember- the weight quoted is with the UnCut Steerer tube fork which is 300mm
A 120mm Bluto with 30% sag has Axle to crown of 531-36 = 495mm. Factor in the squishy fatbike tire and the difference to most would be little to none. 



dledinger said:


> Sweet. thank you!
> 
> I was hoping that was the same fork.
> 
> ...


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Joe,

We've five bikes from BD in the past five months at an average of around $900 or so. I've never called to compain about a scratch, blemish or any unattended detail. I figured if my Lurch had any issues I'd let you know about.

It came in today and has NONE. Our carbon fork came in too (which exceeded my expectations).

Assembly was as easy as the rest of our BD bikes. Free hub is steel. Bike and fork in great shape despite the abosultely worst boxes we've received from UPS yet. Couldn't find fault with the contents if we tried.

She's all set up and ready to go...and the Bluto is boxed up for sale


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Wel I had it on the trails today. The rear skewer is weird. It slipped so I have ordered a Hope. Bike did great but I truly have something to learn about tire pressures for sure. I was bouncing all over the roots and rocks on the trails


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Just set up my front wheel tubeless via the Norweigan method. I've been reading about all the successes and failures and hedged my bet this looked like the best option. Inflated easy and seated solid against the rim. Not even a minor leak anywhere. 

With 7oz of Stans the complete wheel went from 3684 to 3164 grams for a savings of 520, or a little over a pound.

Wish me luck!


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Hi Xpcgamer, which Hope Skewer do you order to fit????


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

dledinger said:


> Joe,
> 
> We've five bikes from BD in the past five months at an average of around $900 or so. I've never called to compain about a scratch, blemish or any unattended detail. I figured if my Lurch had any issues I'd let you know about.
> 
> ...


Is that a Fender Princeton?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I wish...its a Super Champ.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Jim Bangs said:


> Hi Xpcgamer, which Hope Skewer do you order to fit????


Hope QR Skewer 190mm. Came out to 28 bucks.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

FWIW, my stock skewer stopped slipping once the paint wore off the drops. Close to 900 miles on it now, but snow is too soft to ride now. 12 inches of slush basically so I'm back on the road with skinny bike for now.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

*Any solutions for this or response from BikesDirect?*

Wanted to check in to see how you solved the poorly manufactured front caliper mount problem. I have the same situation. The mount of the fork is misplaced and puts the caliper too close the the disc; so close in fact that the mounting washers for adjusting the caliper's position relative to the disc actually touch the disc. I've double checked the seating of the wheel in the fork and the installation of the disc on the wheel and both are fine. I know I can grind the mount on the fork down to correct this, but I am disappointed to have to do this to a brand new bike. Did you contact BikesDirect about this? Any other orange Lurch owners dealing with this. I've seen in this thread this same problem described for the rear caliper mount.



DirtyThirty said:


> Pretty dang impressed with the fit and finish of the Lurch !
> 
> Slight adjustment on the low side of the RD and the drivetrain was spot on. Normal tweaking to the rims. No grease in the seattube. BB was good. Disappointed the rear hub body is still aluminum, must have just switched them on a couple... Rear disc brake was aligned perfectly. The rear skewer doesn't seem as bad as I thought from past reports but have a hope on the way for insurance. The cassette is spidered only on the largest two gears but have a XT cassette enroute.
> 
> ...


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

I had the same trouble on my orange lurch. 
Loosen the skewer and see if the left dropout stays in line with the axle. Mine was a little pigeon-toed (for lack of a better drscription) on the left fork leg. Clamping the skewer down would square it up, but it also pulled the brake mount out of position, causing it to interfere with the rotor. 

Use some heavy tagboard or cardboard to protect the finish of the dropout, and straighten it with a large crescent wrench. On mine just the front tab of the left dropout was tweaked inward. It was very simple to straighten. It's steel, you can move it a decent amount without fear of it snapping.

This is a really easy fix.


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

Yup, that was exactly the problem and your fix worked perfectly. Thanks for posting. Seems unlikely to be a problem caused during shipping as the problem has shown up 3 times in this forum. Bikes come pretty well packaged with the front skewer in place. The shipping box for mine was in perfect shape, no evidence of getting slammed around. Regardless, it obviously was not checked in the factory before disassembly for shipping. Ride on.


EZSnow said:


> I had the same trouble on my orange lurch.
> Loosen the skewer and see if the left dropout stays in line with the axle. Mine was a little pigeon-toed (for lack of a better drscription) on the left fork leg. Clamping the skewer down would square it up, but it also pulled the brake mount out of position, causing it to interfere with the rotor.
> 
> Use some heavy tagboard or cardboard to protect the finish of the dropout, and straighten it with a large crescent wrench. On mine just the front tab of the left dropout was tweaked inward. It was very simple to straighten. It's steel, you can move it a decent amount without fear of it snapping.
> ...


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

So wanted to give my thoughts on my new toy. I went with a size 18 Lurch W/Bluto and I can say it is hands down the best bike buy I have in my stable. Its all the love of the fat bike I already had but now with the ability to ride it faster and harder then before. Having that front fork isn't a must but it sure has its place on the trails. 

Overall fit of the bike is fantastic! @ 5'10 its a perfect match for me. Top Tube is great and the stand over is roomy. The paint is really well done on the Gray, it has some sparkle to it that adds a nice touch. The rims are straight and look well built, I am not going tubeless so I don't care that they are hard or almost impossible to set up(Split tube would work no problem so keep that in mind) The snowshoes are great, they remind me a bit of Nates but with more bite. I am running a 1x10 and I did that right out of the box so I cant comment on the stock gearing but personally I'd probably change the front ring to a 32 over the 36 is I was keeping it 2x10.

So I was able to still get a hand full of snow rides in since we did have a snow storm shortly after my lurch showed up. I have taken it in new snow with only me out on the trails laying down tracks. I have ridden it on ice, slush, slop and still the bike was great. This thing is a snow machine, even with the 1x10 set up I had no problem getting out and riding for 2-3hrs. I have gotten it out now on the trails with about 85-90% dirt, today it should be 95-100% clear and I cant wait. What I can say about riding it on normal trails is it lets me ride way more aggressively. 120 Travel on that fork and how the bike sits really makes you wanna bomb down sections. It really is an animal and out of the box its really to go rip down the trails. 

I wasn't sure how clearance would be with the 1x10 so I did get a bash for it(BBG bash can be mounted right onto the crank with longer bolts) but I haven't found a need for it. Took it over some log piles that every now and then I could clip my bash on my Nashbar Fatty and I have not had any problems with a 30T ring. But if you are looking for a bash option check out Erin's stuff from BBG or send him an email, always very helpful! 

So comparing this bike to some of the other high end fat bikes I got to ride and I have to say I am really really happy with it. I did swap the bars and stem out but other then that and the 1x10 conversion I left the bike stock. Its well worth the money and I think that if you are looking to get a sick fat bike this is the way to go. The big name bikes I got to demo where great and fun to ride but if I was spending that kind of money I could have bought to lurches 0.o even after I bought the Lurch and did my upgrades I still saved a ton of money and I have the bike I pictured in my mind. Also its steel! I would have payed more and got a frame I wouldn't really love.

Sure you dont get that LBS backing you up but for me out of the box my left brake lever mounting bolt was rounded out and my head badge wont stay always stuck on the left corner. One email to BD and they sent a new bolt and badge out to me. Would this have happened if it was at a shop? No because they would have seen it before the bike was ready to go to the customer and fixed it with out me knowing. But since I am play LBS I have to fix it. Im very much ok with that 

Edit: I still see alot of people talking about the rear QR slipping. I have not had a problem with mine, maybe I just gorilla tighten it down already but after each ride I have checked and its staying in place for me. Have 6 or 7 rides on mine and not one problem maybe my luck will run out soon....


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

dledinger said:


> Just set up my front wheel tubeless via the Norweigan method. I've been reading about all the successes and failures and hedged my bet this looked like the best option. Inflated easy and seated solid against the rim. Not even a minor leak anywhere.
> 
> With 7oz of Stans the complete wheel went from 3684 to 3164 grams for a savings of 520, or a little over a pound.
> 
> Wish me luck!


As many here already know....this wasn't a good plan. I just had collarbone surgery about 2 weeks ago, so I can't ride hard. But I figure if I can make them burp by hand at 10 PSI, it probably wont hold up for riding. Went back to the tubes for now.

In the mean time, cool silver glitter duct tape at Walgreen's to use for rimstrips. Also got rid of the front derailluer and set it up as a 1X10 like our other bikes.

Gonna have a hell of a lot of fun with this bike!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Im not sure what Norweigan method is but split tubes will work no problem with these rims. My friend is still running his with no PSI drops or burps.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

ian0789 said:


> Im not sure what Norweigan method is but split tubes will work no problem with these rims. My friend is still running his with no PSI drops or burps.


No problems here either but I wonder if it's because I'm using a Bud and Ground Control.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

ian0789 said:


> Im not sure what Norweigan method is but split tubes will work no problem with these rims. My friend is still running his with no PSI drops or burps.


It uses weatherstripping to build up the bead seat, and replaces the split tube with a few wraps of plastic pallet wrapping. Apparently, its very popular in Norway.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Does anyone have a set of 15mm thru axle adaptors for a Bluto?

I made some spacers back when they were unavailable, now I'd like to replace them with the real deal.

Anyone got a set they can spare?

Send me a PM, much obliged


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Right when your BLUTO build got up and running, I contacted BD directly and asked for a set, as they were supposed to come with the first gen Lurch anyway. Eventually, when they were in stock, BD sent me a set, free of charge. I have had zero success with contacting the US Novatec rep, Bdop cycling, or Bikefettish for aftermarket Novatec parts.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Guys I have to buy a 150mm front hub to lace up a Holy Rolling Darryl to my Lurch. What kind of spokes do I have to order? Either buying the Chosen hub or another 9 zero hub.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

watermonkey said:


> Right when your BLUTO build got up and running, I contacted BD directly and asked for a set, as they were supposed to come with the first gen Lurch anyway. Eventually, when they were in stock, BD sent me a set, free of charge. I have had zero success with contacting the US Novatec rep, Bdop cycling, or Bikefettish for aftermarket Novatec parts.


They are out of stock until April. I sold the bike, my buddy wants the real ones.

Anyone??


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> Right when your BLUTO build got up and running, I contacted BD directly and asked for a set, as they were supposed to come with the first gen Lurch anyway. Eventually, when they were in stock, BD sent me a set, free of charge. I have had zero success with contacting the US Novatec rep, Bdop cycling, or Bikefettish for aftermarket Novatec parts.


This. BD customer service sent out a pair to me free of charge just last week.


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## GoPlayOutside (Aug 19, 2009)

Hi, I’m close to pulling the trigger on a 18” Lurch, but undecided if I want to go with the Bluto or not, most if to all will be on single track. How does the 18” handle with 120mm Bluto fork, 120mm just seems to be an over kill. Any input will be greatly appreciated


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

histrionicus said:


> Wanted to check in to see how you solved the poorly manufactured front caliper mount problem. I have the same situation. The mount of the fork is misplaced and puts the caliper too close the the disc; so close in fact that the mounting washers for adjusting the caliper's position relative to the disc actually touch the disc. I've double checked the seating of the wheel in the fork and the installation of the disc on the wheel and both are fine. I know I can grind the mount on the fork down to correct this, but I am disappointed to have to do this to a brand new bike. Did you contact BikesDirect about this? Any other orange Lurch owners dealing with this. I've seen in this thread this same problem described for the rear caliper mount.


As with others, my dropout is a little pigeon-toed on the left as well. I have yet to bend it any yet. I felt more comfortable bending the mounting tabs for the calipers. brakes are pretty much spot on presently. Wonder why this is seems to be an orange specific problem...

Has anyone received a rigid lurch that has the steel hub yet?? Wonder why only the bluto'd ones are getting switched?

Absolutely LOVIN this thing !!! Close to 300 miles so far. Thinking all my cable stretchin is done, only two adjustment sessions so far. I am impressed with paved trail performance of the stock shoes.

The trails around Des Moines here are awesome IMO (for my style of riding). This trail goes in a 70 mile loop with loads of fun just off the trail via your own trail and single tracks. ...bonus is there are bars within a hop skip and a jump 










PS. To date I haven't had one slippage of the stock rear skewer...knock on wood. Hope is sitting on a shelf when and if it does though.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

DirtyThirty said:


> PS. To date I haven't had one slippage of the stock rear skewer...knock on wood. Hope is sitting on a shelf when and if it does though.


I used to have major slippage, but after following some advice on here Ive been fine since: removed paint on contact surfaces of the dropouts and greased the skewer cam.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

sven98 said:


> I used to have major slippage, but after following some advice on here Ive been fine since: removed paint on contact surfaces of the dropouts and greased the skewer cam.


I hope it continues to hold up for you! I did the same thing, and I was fine for a while too, but I was still tightening the skewer down pretty hard and it gave way one day.

I noticed everyone seems to go for the Hope skewer when this happens. The Hope one looks nice, but I wanted to throw out an alternative again. Paul Components makes one for a 190 dropout. It looks really nice and is designed so that you can tighten the p!$$ out of it without worry. Plus its made in the USA! Downside is its $50 instead of $30 for the Hope skewer. I've been very happy with mine.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

After one 2 hour ride of climbing and such. Not sure why pic has rotated but you get the idea. Any ideas on replacing that bolt? The other side is the same. Do I need it?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I took the springs off and screwed them in the other way, so the axle rests against the head of the screw. Bottomed then backed out two full turns gave me 1/4" of clearance up front.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

dledinger said:


> I took the springs off and screwed them in the other way, so the axle rests against the head of the screw. Bottomed then backed out two full turns gave me 1/4" of clearance up front.


Brilliant! Any idea on how I can get these out?


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

No great ideas. I'd probably try to cut the head off with a dremel or maybe even a hacksaw and run the screw out the back. That way you're not running the bent screw through the frame.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Xpcgamer said:


> Brilliant! Any idea on how I can get these out?


Turn the bolt so it is perpendicular to the drop out and then bend it back straight as you can get it, Dremel off the head, and take it out the back side. What I would do.

Surly Monkey Nuts v2.0

Thought about getting the monkey nuts.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Xpcgamer said:


> Brilliant! Any idea on how I can get these out?


Turn the bolt so it is perpendicular to the drop out and then bend it back straight as you can get it, Dremel off the head, and take it out the back side. What I would do. Surly Monkey Nuts v2.0

Thought about getting the monkey nuts.



Bike'nSplit said:


> I hope it continues to hold up for you! I did the same thing, and I was fine for a while too, but I was still tightening the skewer down pretty hard and it gave way one day.
> 
> I noticed everyone seems to go for the Hope skewer when this happens. The Hope one looks nice, but I wanted to throw out an alternative again. Paul Components makes one for a 190 dropout. It looks really nice and is designed so that you can tighten the p!$$ out of it without worry. Plus its made in the USA! Downside is its $50 instead of $30 for the Hope skewer. I've been very happy with mine.
> 
> View attachment 973927


Like the orange !!


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

I am a bit frustrated with BD. Not that I do not have my bike yet. I understand the shipping, container ship, dock labor issues, backload, etc. problems.
What I don't get is the lack of info from BD. I have sent them a couple of e-mails just looking for some info and communication and have gotten zero response from them. If it is no news I still appreciate a response. I am a big boy, I can take bad news if that is what it is.
Is anybody else experiencing this??? Looking forward to riding my bike when it arrives.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Jim Bangs said:


> I am a bit frustrated with BD. Not that I do not have my bike yet. I understand the shipping, container ship, dock labor issues, backload, etc. problems.
> What I don't get is the lack of info from BD. I have sent them a couple of e-mails just looking for some info and communication and have gotten zero response from them. If it is no news I still appreciate a response. I am a big boy, I can take bad news if that is what it is.
> Is anybody else experiencing this??? Looking forward to riding my bike when it arrives.


Hi Jim,
I feel your pain brother. I ordered my Lurch in early Nov 2014 for a Jan 9 2015 delivery window and wound up receiving it at the end of Feb /first week in March. Many times I thought about buying a brand name locally or cancelling my order completely but I can say first hand that its worth the wait. I had the same frustration as you trying to get info from BD. I had the most success at this email [email protected] and spoke to Karla but was able to find the most info on their Facebook page. Subscribe to the Bikesdirect page. All one word not the one with Bikes Direct. I hope this helps and you get your Lurch soon.
Ed


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

Ed, I got a private message through this forum, so kudos to BD for this quick response and for them keeping an eye out for their customers who are on these forums.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Jim Bangs said:


> Ed, I got a private message through this forum, so kudos to BD for this quick response and for them keeping an eye out for their customers who are on these forums.


Glad to hear it Jim! If I had one complaint about BD, that would be it. I hope your Lurch is on its way soon, you will love it!
Ed


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## histrionicus (Jan 8, 2015)

*Lurching the overflow*

The Lurch is a fun ride. My 20" frame weighed in at 39.4 lb out of the box. That's almost 6 lbs heavier than the 19.5" Fantom FB5 2.0, which also has heavier wheels (dbl walled, 100mm front, 80mm rear) than the Lurch. Not surprised steel is heavier, but a bit surprised by how much heavier. Ride on.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Xpcgamer said:


> After one 2 hour ride of climbing and such. Not sure why pic has rotated but you get the idea. Any ideas on replacing that bolt? The other side is the same. Do I need it?











More detail on Page 11 of this thread.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

msedbaue said:


> View attachment 974493
> 
> 
> More detail on Page 11 of this thread.


Well the brake side is done but the drive side snapped while trying to bend the screw back to shape a bit to try and cut off. I tried to grind a slot in it to use a flat head and one of the "ears" I created snapped off. Great! Is that screw really needed? I have no idea on how to get it out. If I try to use an extractor on the frame side I am afraid I will chew up the threads.


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## msedbaue (Mar 16, 2014)

Xpcgamer said:


> Well the brake side is done but the drive side snapped while trying to bend the screw back to shape a bit to try and cut off. I tried to grind a slot in it to use a flat head and one of the "ears" I created snapped off. Great! Is that screw really needed? I have no idea on how to get it out. If I try to use an extractor on the frame side I am afraid I will chew up the threads.


Its not really needed. If you slam your axle to the front and your tire doesn't rub youre good to go.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I think if I couldn't get it out the back, I'd oil it up and go out the front. Not much to lose at this point.

As above, if you can slide the wheel all the way forward and still have clearance and its straight side to side...nope. Not needed. I think my tire would have been a little tight for my taste though.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

I'm getting this bad boy dialed in and its getting better! Pic with my Lurch sitting next to my "Other" Fatty.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Lookin' good!

How did you make out with those screws?


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Left the little "nub" alone and screwed the other thread end first with the head acting as the stop for the axel. Had to remove a couple of links but she rides nice. It is noticeably lighter via my scale (my arms when I pick it up). Can't wait to go tubeless and add the new front rim.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I'm looking to put a new wheelset on my Lurch, but I'm not sure what all my options are. I want the new rims to be as tubeless ready as possible. The options for fatbikes seem to be pretty limited, but the Mulefuts caught my attention even though they are pinned and not welded. 

Does anyone know of full wheelsets that can be purchased that would fit the Lurch? I'm open to all options, but I do not have the budget for carbon rims. 

My other option is to just use the hubs that came with the Lurch, but I would have to have my LBS build them.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

I picked up Holy Rolling Darryls. The front was 130MM so I am waiting to buy a new 9zero7 hub in 150 TA for the bluto. The Rear came with a 190mm QR so I just bought a new Free Hub and slapped the Sram rear cassette on it. Now I am running Fat B Nimbles and 2.3 tubes. That with the 1x10 set up really seemed to lighten the bike up.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

29er wheels with tires for the lurch, 250 bucks!

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/parts/bicycle-wheels-sale.htm


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

After reviewing what some folks have posted, I decided to remove the rear dropout bolts that have bent for some people. I'm just not going to take that chance. I replaced them with 4x10mm allen head screws, which worked perfectly. I had considered the Monkey Nuts, but those are $25. I may yet need them when I put on the Bud and Lou next winter, but for now I'll stick with my .80cent bolts. 

After searching and searching for a wheelset that will fit, I have determined that there is nothing unless I want to buy a new fork. I briefly considered that, but I like the stock fork. So, I think I'll just order new rims and have them put on my hubs. I wish I was experienced at wheelbuilding, but since I'm not, my LBS will do it. I've decided to go with the Mulefut rims. I'll lose a little bit of weight, but more importantly, I'll have a solid tubeless wheelset that won't burp. I'll post pics when I get that done. 

Also, I considered what some have said that the Lurch is a cheap bike that is not worth upgrading. I disagree. The Lurch is a quality bike in my opinion. I think I'm going to keep it for a long time. Since it was so cheap, I can justify some upgrades and still come in below budget.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Barheet said:


> After reviewing what some folks have posted, I decided to remove the rear dropout bolts that have bent for some people. I'm just not going to take that chance. I replaced them with 4x10mm allen head screws, which worked perfectly. I had considered the Monkey Nuts, but those are $25. I may yet need them when I put on the Bud and Lou next winter, but for now I'll stick with my .80cent bolts.
> 
> After searching and searching for a wheelset that will fit, I have determined that there is nothing unless I want to buy a new fork. I briefly considered that, but I like the stock fork. So, I think I'll just order new rims and have them put on my hubs. I wish I was experienced at wheelbuilding, but since I'm not, my LBS will do it. I've decided to go with the Mulefut rims. I'll lose a little bit of weight, but more importantly, I'll have a solid tubeless wheelset that won't burp. I'll post pics when I get that done.
> 
> Also, I considered what some have said that the Lurch is a cheap bike that is not worth upgrading. I disagree. The Lurch is a quality bike in my opinion. I think I'm going to keep it for a long time. Since it was so cheap, I can justify some upgrades and still come in below budget.


If cheap they mean inexpensive they would be right, but after working on mine a bit and comparing it to others, the quality is comparable, and the components are better than you will touch at you LBS branded bikes short of $2500+. Look at the component spec on a rigid Fat Boy and compare them........that there is $2100 for a "cheaper" spec no matter how you cut it. Them there are expensive decals......

Same with the $1700 Rigid Surly......


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

I got a chance to ride my buddy's Surly, Ice Cream Truck and I must admit that it felt MUCH lighter and the Shimano drivetrain felt 10 times better than my Sram X9. BUT, not so much lighter to justify the more than double retail price. Now with over 900 mostly hard, abusive miles my Lurch has fared well. Freehub basically disintegrated, and rear hub failure, both taken care of well after warranty period by Bikes Direct. Original chain was worn beyond measurement (Park Tool) at about 800 miles and a set of brake pads. That and a bunch of tinkering and trailside "engineering" initially to get it dialed. All in all a great bike for $900. Now that our glacier here in the northeast is receding I will take off the Bud and Lou and remount the Snowshoes, which work well in mud but not so well in snow.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

That's interesting about the ICT feeling light. I think they tip the scales just shy of 40lbs.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

I find it ironic that a tire named "Snowshoe" sucks in the snow. But it does!


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I thought there was a dedicated thread for this but I couldn't find it.

My Novatec freehub is gouged to hell. Hopefully the 29er set I ordered doesn't have the same problem.


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## cfanto (Oct 13, 2010)

Not isolated to just the Novatec's... this scenario's pretty typical when using an alloy freehub w/ the lower-end cassettes that doesn't use a spider carrier. The Hope Hoops on my Giant Reign had the same issue. I eventually replaced the freehub w/ Hope's steel version while still running the HG-61 (non-spider'd cassette). I'm curious if Novatec sells a steel freehub for these hubs?



dgw2jr said:


> I thought there was a dedicated thread for this but I couldn't find it.
> 
> My Novatec freehub is gouged to hell. Hopefully the 29er set I ordered doesn't have the same problem.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Luckily, the 29er wheel set I got today has a steel freehub.

Total weight for the 29er wheels and tires is about 9 pounds versus 20 pounds for the fat wheels and tires. Feels like a dang rocket ship now!


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

dgw2jr said:


> Luckily, the 29er wheel set I got today has a steel freehub.
> 
> Total weight for the 29er wheels and tires is about 9 pounds versus 20 pounds for the fat wheels and tires. Feels like a dang rocket ship now!


Broke in the new wheel set today with a ride of 17 miles and 3000 feet of elevation gain. Felt good to be back in the big ring.

The Bronson 2.2 Comp tires that come with these wheels aren't the lightest at 950g a tire but I picked up a goathead in the front and the massive tread saved me from a flat. Regardless, tubeless tires are on the way.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Good to know they came with the steel freehub. What about endcaps? Did the wheelset come with everything needed to convert both hubs between qr and thru axle?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

MaximumX said:


> Good to know they came with the steel freehub. What about endcaps? Did the wheelset come with everything needed to convert both hubs between qr and thru axle?


Yes they came with everything to adapt between QR and TA. I had to pull the 12mm axle out of the rear hub and install the QR axle that comes in a bag attached to the wheel. The 15mm TA spacers for the front hub were already installed.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

Good to know. Thanks!


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Jim's arrived today and let me tell you they are 4.8" Fo-sho


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Does anyone know if the Samox bottom bracket is comparable to Shimano or SRAM? I have some creaking that all know remediation efforts will not get rid of so I want to replace.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Archangel6 said:


> Does anyone know if the Samox bottom bracket is comparable to Shimano or SRAM? I have some creaking that all know remediation efforts will not get rid of so I want to replace.


I have an XTR bottom bracket on my Lurch.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

dgw2jr said:


> I have an XTR bottom bracket on my Lurch.


Thanks - For those interested the FSA MegaExo BB-8000 ceramic BB will work with these cranks. You will need to use 2 spacers per side as the non-drive side cup is 2.4mm narrower that the Shimano or Samox equivalent.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I finally got my Mulefut rims on my Lurch. I did not weigh them because I don't weigh any of my bike stuff. But I will say that acceleration is definitely quicker, the wheels feel significantly lighter, and the whole bike is more nimble.

A word of warning: The Snowshoe tires on these rims are SO TIGHT!! I didn't think I was going to get the front tire on. I honestly don't know if I'll ever get it off. Hopefully, it stretches a little bit. The rear tire was a little easier, or my technique just got better. It also takes a ton of air to get them totally seated. You can literally pump them up with a floor pump, but getting the tire all the way to the edge of the rims takes a lot of pressure. I haven't had them out on the trail yet, but I couldn't burp them even at very low pressures. Tubeless setup was a breeze. Just used the rim strip, gorilla tape, and Stan's valves.

I also had BD send me a steel freehub body, which is now installed. The aluminum one was gouged up, just like everyone else. Big difference in durability on that sucker.


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## Xpcgamer (Nov 14, 2011)

Nice! I went with Holy Rolling Darryls myself with Fat b Nimbles.


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

I do not understand removing a alloy freehub body because you want to run a crap cog stack. Hey, I have this heavy crap part that tearing up my light good part.....so I should ditch the light part so the whole bike can weigh more.....sorry but:madman:


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

MUSTCLIME said:


> I do not understand removing a alloy freehub body because you want to run a crap cog stack. Hey, I have this heavy crap part that tearing up my light good part.....so I should ditch the light part so the whole bike can weigh more.....sorry but:madman:


Your post directly contradicts your signature. :madman:


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## Beicster (Feb 9, 2007)

MUSTCLIME said:


> I do not understand removing a alloy freehub body because you want to run a crap cog stack. Hey, I have this heavy crap part that tearing up my light good part.....so I should ditch the light part so the whole bike can weigh more.....sorry but:madman:


That is one way of looking at it. Another way is to look at it is keeping the light good part (which may or may not be better, just lighter) locks you in to always buying the more expensive replacement cassette. My choice would be to tolerate a few extra ounces to save bucks down the road.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

If anyone has an alloy freehub that isn't chewed up too bad that you no longer want message me.


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## csf (Apr 28, 2007)

*Sizing help*

Looking at the lurch with bluto and wondering which size would b best? Im 5'-4" with a cycling inseam of 31" as measured by the instructions on the competitive cyclist site

Size 14 or 16?

Dont want to b stretched out. Ride desert single and dbl track
Anyone with similar measurements what size you riding?

Thanks!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

MUSTCLIME said:


> I do not understand removing a alloy freehub body because you want to run a crap cog stack. Hey, I have this heavy crap part that tearing up my light good part.....so I should ditch the light part so the whole bike can weigh more.....sorry but:madman:


I don't think the PG1030 is a particularly "crap" cassette. It comes stock on many bikes with price tags far exceeding the Lurch. No one here is really complaining about the weight, either, but that it doesn't play well with the aluminum freehub. If BD is willing to send a steel freehub for little or nothing, then why buy a new cassette?

FWIW, the PG1030 is within 40ish grams of an XT cassette. On a fatbike that's not enough for me to change it out until I wear it out.


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

dledinger said:


> I don't think the PG1030 is a particularly "crap" cassette. It comes stock on many bikes with price tags far exceeding the Lurch. No one here is really complaining about the weight, either, but that it doesn't play well with the aluminum freehub. If BD is willing to send a steel freehub for little or nothing, then why buy a new cassette?
> 
> FWIW, the PG1030 is within 40ish grams of an XT cassette. On a fatbike that's not enough for me to change it out until I wear it out.


Any mtb cog stack without an al core is not worth keeping imo. Use them for other things like boat anchors or paperweights for your desk in a wind tunnel.


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

The spec-ing of the SRAM 1030 cassette is baffling. With everything else these bikes come loaded up with- X9 everywhere it matters, nice cable brakes, etc... then to spec a 1030 cassette- especially when an alloy freehub is (was) on the spec sheet, just doesn't make sense. Good on bikesdirect for sending out steel freehubs though. 

I mean, I understand WHY they did it- they did it to save money. It just doesn't fit with the rest of the build. 

My Lurch shipped with a steel freehub body, but I wasn't happy with the shifting on the 1030 cassette. I had an SLX cassette laying around, so I tried that and the bike shifts noticeably better on the bigger cogs. As an added bonus, I don't have a pile of 15 loose items the next time I remove the cassette! 

I also swapped the 36T for a 32T in front. Even on the road I couldn't get to the small end of the cassette, and I was wanting a couple easier gears on the trail without dumping into granny. This is another spec that baffles me, but I suppose it looks good on a gear range chart or something.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

EZSnow said:


> The spec-ing of the SRAM 1030 cassette is baffling. With everything else these bikes come loaded up with- X9 everywhere it matters, nice cable brakes, etc... then to spec a 1030 cassette- especially when an alloy freehub is (was) on the spec sheet, just doesn't make sense. Good on bikesdirect for sending out steel freehubs though.


It might not match the rest, but there's plenty of more expensive bikes with the same or cheaper cassettes. The Fatboys are having the same problem with their Sunrace cassettes eating the aluminum freehubs. From what's been posted on here it appears Specialized dealers are not willing to fix it on the Fatboys. One dealer that posts here says its normal, more or less, so there's nothing to fix.

If this is the big thing that everyone takes exception to with this bike, then IMO, it's relatively minor. At the price one can live with it, swap cassettes, or take advantage of BD sending out steel freehubs.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

MUSTCLIME said:


> Any mtb cog stack without an al core is not worth keeping imo. Use them for other things like boat anchors or paperweights for your desk in a wind tunnel.


That 30-40 extra grams ought to slow a boat down just enough for drift fishing walleye on the big lake.


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## MUSTCLIME (Jan 26, 2004)

dledinger said:


> That 30-40 extra grams ought to slow a boat down just enough for drift fishing walleye on the big lake.


I think that number is for a 32 tooth...the 36 tooth is a bit heavier imo. I like to take the cheep cog stacks apart, hand them out to local kids telling them they are throwing stars and Darwin sort it out...


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

EZSnow said:


> The spec-ing of the SRAM 1030 cassette is baffling. With everything else these bikes come loaded up with- X9 everywhere it matters, nice cable brakes, etc... then to spec a 1030 cassette- especially when an alloy freehub is (was) on the spec sheet, just doesn't make sense. Good on bikesdirect for sending out steel freehubs though.
> 
> I mean, I understand WHY they did it- they did it to save money. It just doesn't fit with the rest of the build.
> 
> ...


Hey EZ,
What 32 T chainwheel did you use and where did you get it. Would like to do the same with my Lurch. The 36 is a little too much on the trail.
Ed


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

giff07 said:


> Hey EZ,
> What 32 T chainwheel did you use and where did you get it. Would like to do the same with my Lurch. The 36 is a little too much on the trail.
> Ed


I used a shimano FC-M760. It's a 9-speed middle ring with a 104BCD.

Be careful not to get one of the shimano "system" rings with the composite in the middle, they don't fit on non-shimano cranksets. Ask how I know. :madman:

As for the 1030 being spec'd on more expensive bikes- sure it is. And it's spec'd on those bikes for the same reason it's spec'd here- to shave a few bucks off the cost so they can hit the price point. Most buyers aren't going to look at the spec sheet close enough to notice- or care. The other bit on this bike that makes me chuckle is the hollow pin, skeletonized chain. "Here's a (just under) 40 pound bike but it's got a hollow pin chain!" ...  huh?


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Took the Lurch out for the first real ride last night with the new Mulefuts. Definitely a significant improvement in weight, acceleration, and climbing. The bike actually doesn't feel like such a tank anymore and even "pops" when I jump it off stuff. 

Also, ZERO burping so far. Even at low tire pressures, zero burping. That's what I was looking for. 

Regarding the cassette that's got everyone so worked up: My philosophy is generally, "If it isn't broken, don't fix it." The cassette works just fine. The bike shifts great. BD sent me a new freehub at minimal cost, which solves my problems of the gouged aluminum freehub, so problem solved. Why on earth would I fork out money to replace a perfectly good cassette?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Barheet said:


> Took the Lurch out for the first real ride last night with the new Mulefuts. Definitely a significant improvement in weight, acceleration, and climbing. The bike actually doesn't feel like such a tank anymore and even "pops" when I jump it off stuff.
> 
> Also, ZERO burping so far. Even at low tire pressures, zero burping. That's what I was looking for.
> 
> Regarding the cassette that's got everyone so worked up: My philosophy is generally, "If it isn't broken, don't fix it." The cassette works just fine. The bike shifts great. BD sent me a new freehub at minimal cost, which solves my problems of the gouged aluminum freehub, so problem solved. Why on earth would I fork out money to replace a perfectly good cassette?


Very cool - looks like you kept the Novatec hubs. What did your spoke lengths come out to, front and rear, drive and non drive sides, or were you able to just re-lace? I haven't seen erd's for the hl-80's anywhere. Thanks for the feedback. Since switching over the steel freehub body, I've had no further hub or cassette issues, on either my Lurch or Sturgis Bullet.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Not sure on the spokes. My LBS did the work and I let them select the spokes. Wheelbuilding is one of the few things I'm not going to bother learning since I don't see myself doing it more than a few times in my entire life.


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

Came with a steel freehub body. So much fun.


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

c3x8 said:


> Came with a steel freehub body. So much fun.


You got it!!! Looks great, Have Fun!! And bonus on the steel free-hub.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

Whats the word on yours Jim Bangs??


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## Jim Bangs (May 15, 2013)

giff07 said:


> Whats the word on yours Jim Bangs??


Tap, Tap, Tap, goes my big toe. I could change to the orange like c3x8 did but I am going to try and hold out for the Purple.


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## giff07 (Jun 7, 2010)

its worth the wait!!!
Ed


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

I decided this would be a good week to service the 100mm Bluto on my Lurch. Before I pulled the fork off the bike I took some measurements. Standover height at the middle of the top tube (center brake hose retaining clip) was 34 inches, and 38 inches at the junction of the top tube and head tube. My inseam is 32 inches! :eekster: I've had some close calls. The bike needs quite a bit of leaning over when I bail out.

I installed the stock rigid fork and measured again and came up with 31 inches center of top tube and 33.5 inches at the TT/HT junction. I should have measured the BB height as well but I'm going to guess it's at least 2 inches lower. Just riding it around the neighborhood I noticed it is quite a bit more lively in handling and a bit easier to pedal. HT angle is around 68° with the Bluto and 70° with the stock fork. I'm guessing the ST angle is affected the same amount.

The 100mm Bluto has an axle-to-crown length of 511mm, where the stock rigid fork is 455mm. At over 2 inches, that's a huge difference! I'm going to swap in the 80mm air spring rod which will lower the A2C to 491mm. 20% sag on the 80mm should be 475mm vs 491mm sag @100mm. That's still 20mm over stock but it should even out as the fork runs through it's travel on the trail.

I'll let y'all know how this experiment turns out.


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## ronsfi (May 31, 2009)

So my Lurch came with a bent dropout screw straight out of the box. Glad I caught it early because I was able to get it to screw out. I purchased some Surly Monkey Nuts and found they would not fit because the screw that holds them together was not long enough to let them to fit the width of the dropouts. Otherwise they fit like a glove, so I went to my favorite hardware store (Parkrose Hardware) in Portland and they had the exact screw I needed. They went on in a jiffy, work well and look awesome. I will be putting them to the big test tomorrow.


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## ronsfi (May 31, 2009)

So my Lurch came with a bent dropout screw straight out of the box. Glad I caught it early because I was able to get it to screw out. I purchased some Surly Monkey Nuts and found they would not fit because the screw that holds them together was not long enough to let them to fit the width of the dropouts. Otherwise they fit like a glove, so I went to my favorite hardware store (Parkrose Hardware) in Portland and they had the exact screw I needed. They went on in a jiffy, work well and look awesome. I will be putting them to the big test tomorrow.


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

It's been two weeks since I got fat and I love every part of it! Single track is amazing, riding to work is a hoot and it fits like a glove. Just today I noticed cracks in the tires. Cracks next to the lugs and in between them. Has anyone else experienced this? Only time I've ever had cracks in bike tires was on super old or tires with at least a few thousand miles on them...


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Just ordered my Lurch.  Yellow 20in with Bluto. May sell Bluto and go carbon rigid. What are sub $250 carbon fork options? 
What are good crankset upgrades? 
Lastly rear rack options? 

Well, now that I pulled the trigger, I'll go back and re-read the 59 pages... :0


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Fwiw it took 5 hrs to read the 59 pages.  
Was able to answer some of my questions.
Still want carbon fork ideas and rear rack thoughts. 
Thx.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Congrats- you'll love that Motobecane Lurch! We have carbon forks with tapered steerers for $199. People have posted that link before so should be kosher - here you go: FREE SHIP 48 STATES* Fat Bike FULL CARBON FORKS Tapered Carbon Steerer, Thru-Axle

Rear racks- here link to video of someone who added a rear rack to their fatbike:





and some discussion about rear racks for fatbikes
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/racks-fit-fatbike-933323.html


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Joe- thanks for the reply. It must be noted that things like this and the unparalleled customer support/service is what sealed the deal for me to make the purchase. Thanks again.

M


joebikesdirect said:


> Congrats- you'll love that Motobecane Lurch! We have carbon forks with tapered steerers for $199. People have posted that link before so should be kosher - here you go: FREE SHIP 48 STATES* Fat Bike FULL CARBON FORKS Tapered Carbon Steerer, Thru-Axle
> 
> Rear racks- here link to video of someone who added a rear rack to their fatbike:
> 
> ...


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

I'm pre-ordering some parts before the ups man comes. As a small Clyde I only ride Thomson posts. The longest one I have in 27.2 is a 330. Will this suffice or do I need to order a 410? I ordered a 20in and I'm 6'1.5", and ride pretty flatfooted. Any thoughts, guesses are welcomed.


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

Meek said:


> Joe- thanks for the reply. It must be noted that things like this and the unparalleled customer support/service is what sealed the deal for me to make the purchase. Thanks again.
> 
> M


They do have phenomenal customer service. Being the fatass I am I bent the seatpost on the first ride and a new one is on its way. The cracking tires situation was also addressed with speed and clarity.

As far as seatpost length goes, I would order longer. You can always cut some off, but you can't add some on.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Meek said:


> I'm pre-ordering some parts before the ups man comes. As a small Clyde I only ride Thomson posts. The longest one I have in 27.2 is a 330. Will this suffice or do I need to order a 410? I ordered a 20in and I'm 6'1.5", and ride pretty flatfooted. Any thoughts, guesses are welcomed.


I'm 5'10"+ on a Medium frame, and my 330mm Thomson setback was just a little too short for me to be comfortable with, also a clyde. On a large frame, for me it probably would have been ok, but I'd still prefer to have the post extend below the top tube/seat stay junction on the bike a bit, even accounting for the Lurch having the top tube gusset. The Large frame has a 51mm longer seat tube, though. Its going to be close. Best info I can give. Hope it helps. Current setup is a Thompson 410, and I feel there is less flex over the 320.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Thanks Guys. 
Another noob question:
I'm going to be doing some beach riding/mostly asphalt/general trail riding. Are the Snowshoes good enough or should I get something else? I'd like to swap before I ride so the parts Im selling will be mint. Read the Big Fat Larry's are great on sand but at $130 a piece....
Thx.


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

Meek said:


> Thanks Guys.
> Another noob question:
> I'm going to be doing some beach riding/mostly asphalt/general trail riding. Are the Snowshoes good enough or should I get something else? I'd like to swap before I ride so the parts Im selling will be mint. Read the Big Fat Larry's are great on sand but at $130 a piece....
> Thx.


I'd argue that they're a great tire for general riding.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

*Some Lurching*


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Meek said:


> Just ordered my Lurch.  Yellow 20in with Bluto. May sell Bluto and go carbon rigid. What are sub $250 carbon fork options?
> What are good crankset upgrades?
> Lastly rear rack options?
> 
> Well, now that I pulled the trigger, I'll go back and re-read the 59 pages... :0


I did exactly what you're considering and went with the BD carbon fork. I'm pleased with how it all worked out.

Please share your results if you happen to find a crankset that you like.


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## ronsfi (May 31, 2009)

I ended up with the Axiom Fatliner FatBike Rear Rack. It fits perfect on the 190 hub and it's priced right on Amazon.


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## ShredMaster (Feb 7, 2015)

dledinger said:


> View attachment 987160
> 
> 
> View attachment 987161
> ...


Where are you riding dledinger... looks like something I would love to shred. Jealous.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

My Lurch just arrived. The yellow looks very nice. I think I'll have to wait until Thursday to put it together as I ordered some Boeshield T-9 for it and won't get it until then...
It gives me time to decide if I want a 1x drivetrain. The front der is HUGE. I'm going to swap in an XT cassette. Ordered a rack for it. Debating whether or not to put trekking bars on it...
Also will use the red rim strips I assume are in the box that has stuff in it. Lastly considering using my Brooks B-17....
Decisions, decisions.  

Couldnt wait. Swapped cassettes (319g vs 395g) and threw on some circa 1995 Shimano m747 pedals and took a spin...

My Salsa Lip Lock is too big at 32.0. Does anyone know if I need the 30.0 or 30.6? Thanks.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Sorry, need to order a Salsa Lip Lock asap as I will need to lock it up periodically and won't lose my Thomson and Brooks in 2 seconds with the quick release (maybe 3-5sec with LL.. sigh). Which size do I need for the Lurch, 30.0 or 30.6? Thx.
Fwiw my 32.0 was a little too big.


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

Meek said:


> Sorry, need to order a Salsa Lip Lock asap as I will need to lock it up periodically and won't lose my Thomson and Brooks in 2 seconds with the quick release (maybe 3-5sec with LL.. sigh). Which size do I need for the Lurch, 30.0 or 30.6? Thx.
> Fwiw my 32.0 was a little too big.


Take it to a bike shop and try them both dudeski


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Friggin love this bike !!!


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Meek said:


> My Lurch just arrived. The yellow looks very nice. I think I'll have to wait until Thursday to put it together as I ordered some Boeshield T-9 for it and won't get it until then...
> It gives me time to decide if I want a 1x drivetrain. The front der is HUGE. I'm going to swap in an XT cassette. Ordered a rack for it. Debating whether or not to put trekking bars on it...
> Also will use the red rim strips I assume are in the box that has stuff in it. Lastly considering using my Brooks B-17....
> Decisions, decisions.
> ...


Do not use those rim strips...they're massively heavy.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Which are preferable? And what's the final verdict on the split tube method?


watermonkey said:


> Do not use those rim strips...they're massively heavy.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Interesting. With Bluto, minus the plastic rear der ring, change to xt cassette, change to thomson post, diff saddle, and adding pedals(!)(cheap Wellgo Mg-1) am ~37.7...
Will weigh at lbs soon when finalizing this round of upgrades...



spovegas said:


> According to my scale, fwiw:
> 
> View attachment 922119
> 
> ...


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Double post


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Meek said:


> Which are preferable? And what's the final verdict on the split tube method?


My split tube setup is just sitting in the garage since I've got the 29er wheels on. They've been holding air since January.


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## SeaBass_ (Apr 7, 2006)

Meek said:


> Interesting. With Bluto, minus the plastic rear der ring, change to xt cassette, change to thomson post, diff saddle, and adding pedals(!)(cheap Wellgo Mg-1) am ~37.7...
> Will weigh at lbs soon when finalizing this round of upgrades...


Go 1x, Thomson Stem, Carbon Bars, Tubeless, Phil Wood 100mm bb, and light vintage square taper cranks and report back!


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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

*Lurch Bent Dropout Bolts / Freehub*

Both my horizontal drop out bolts bent pretty badly.









I noticed them while riding - ended up scraping the side of the tire pretty badly.









Email to BD didn't help - they just said it was due to the QR not being tightened down - which definitely was not the case as it was super tight. Then they said just remove the screws and they would pay for me to get new screws. BD also said my tire would be fine, but I'm a bit concerned.

What BD don't factor in is that there is no way to remove these bent screws. I ended up having to dremel both screws out of the dropouts - however this left the screw body within the frame threads. Had no way of getting it out. And the frame got scratched up too. I tried to just slam the rear tire all the way forward, however it is bumping up against the front deraileur.









So I had to buy some Surly Monkey Nuts. Waiting for them to arrive but reading an earlier post, it looks like the screws will not be long enough.

I got the lurch back in September, so I'm assuming my freehub is alloy and will be going out soon too and will need to spend more money on a steel hub. Just another thing to add on.

I love riding the bike and it handled really well. Just disappointed in these issues.


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## ronsfi (May 31, 2009)

Yeah I had to get longer screws for the nuts, but they have been working very well. I'm glad I read this forum before I received the bike. I was looking out for this issue. The part of the screw still left in the dropouts will not be an issue with the MNs as long as they're trimmed flush.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Lurch had a busy weekend


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Just realized I bent my drive side one already too. Damn slow Amazon seller, been waiting for my Hope Fatsno skewer since the weekend before I even got my bike. Well, it didn't play well with my new rack, but just pulled my Surly tugnut off one of my fixed gear bikes and put it on. In retrospect I should have done this initially.


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## sdkjr (Mar 29, 2013)

Disappointing that there are so many people having issues with bent drop out screws. BD should do something about it.

And yes, the part of the screw that is remaining is flush with the frame, so I should be good to install the Monkey Nuts.


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

The track-style (or horizontal, if you prefer) dropouts don't really fit this bike. Vertical dropouts would be the way to go. 

That said, for whatever reason, it's what these bikes have and we get to deal with them. There really isn't a great solution from the manufacturing perspective aside from changing to a different style of dropout, which doesn't help the rest of us. 

For those who haven't yet bent the screws... Take them out, throw the springs in the trash, and reinstall them from the rear. Screw them all the way in. Reinstall the wheel, set the skewer as tight as you can reasonably get it, and ride with confidence. 

Early in my lurch experience, I slid the hub in the dropout while braking. Since I tightened it good and tight it hasn't been an issue.


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

And ill find out soon if the meatier Hope Fatsno grips tighter than the Novatec skewer...


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

My only other gripe is that while I like the paint color, it's almost as bad as a Maaco paint job. Literally have 3 places where there is virtually no paint...


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Q: how much do carbon bars dampen road buzz? I signed up for a bike tour and like this bike enough to want to ride it. Stupidly, I have a high end built Surly LHT, but want to part it to pimp this and have a few extra bucks...
Couple of q's:
Will going to full rabbit status help my wrists? Carbon bars? Slicks? Both carbon bar and slicks? Or keep the LHT for another month...?
Trip will be in Florida Keys. 
LHT is full dura ace with XT shadow line rear der and cassette, rotor rings, 135mm powertap, fenders, rack, etc...
I just don't enjoy riding it. I enjoy full bore ass kicking or sitting upright...


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Meek said:


> LHT is full dura ace with XT shadow line rear der and cassette, rotor rings, 135mm powertap, fenders, rack, etc...


There can't be many LHTs with a powertap. I **** it!


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## grenspot (Feb 17, 2011)

My inner monologue about whether or not I need a fat bike has finally decided in favor of a new ride. The lurch is my first choice, but I am starting to think 26" fat wheels may be a bit one dimensional. I am hoping to get a second set of 29+ hoops as well. Anyone running 29+ wheels on a lurch and liking it? What does it do to the ride quality and geometry? Cheers


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

double


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## c3x8 (Mar 10, 2015)

*Fat rack and new rubbers*

Snowshoes that came on the bike had severe age cracking so bikesdirect replaced them, ensuring future bike purchases through them!

New Snowshoe XL are right at 5" wide at the lugs with 80mm rims. Plenty of room for them in the rear, front has room for at least another inch on each side. Blackburn Outpost fat rack installed without a hitch. Ortlieb classic panniers fit just fine. Expensive rack but it is absolutely solid. I've considered mounting it on the front to get some weight off the rear tire.


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

MUSTCLIME said:


> I do not understand removing a alloy freehub body because you want to run a crap cog stack. Hey, I have this heavy crap part that tearing up my light good part.....so I should ditch the light part so the whole bike can weigh more.....sorry but:madman:


 Kinda late on this one but I have to say that if you haven't yet destroyed the alloy freehub body yet YOU are just too weak. Myself and two friends all bought Lurches (Lurchi?) in September and within a month all three freehub bodies were blown up beyond being used. BD took care of us all beyond what we expected and the steel ones hold up well. 1000 hard miles now and still a ball to ride.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Wife wants a small yellow Lurch Bluto but they are sold out. Tried to buy the blue one as the site says they are available but paypal says they are sold out too! Hopefully a new shipment comes in soon...

Update: just got a response from bd. Lurch will be restocked in October


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I am looking to possibly put a Bluto on my 1st generation Lurch. I just got the rubber spacers from BD a few days ago, so now it can be a reality. Has anyone installed a Bluto with success? How do you get the Bluto to clear the downtube?


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Barheet said:


> I am looking to possibly put a Bluto on my 1st generation Lurch. I just got the rubber spacers from BD a few days ago, so now it can be a reality. Has anyone installed a Bluto with success? How do you get the Bluto to clear the downtube?


It will work just fine but if you dump the bike its fork is going to smack the frame. I have a 650B that the lockout knob doesnt clear and its only an issue if I lay the bike down. Its a steel frame so I wouldnt worry to much about it. If it was carbon Id say think twice. The only difference is the down tube in terms of 1st and 2nd gen. Also I think someone put a bluto on a 1st gen and didnt have a problem.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Yes, I'm aware of that problem. I saw a post from a guy who took off the lockout knob and it cleared the downtube. But it's nice to have the lockout for long climbs, so I was hoping to leave it on there. Is there something else that can be done?


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Barheet said:


> Yes, I'm aware of that problem. I saw a post from a guy who took off the lockout knob and it cleared the downtube. But it's nice to have the lockout for long climbs, so I was hoping to leave it on there. Is there something else that can be done?


Honestly Id take the chance of a small dig in a steel frame vs trying to modify the frame of any sort. If the frame would exccpt an external headset it could give it the small mm it needed but since that isnt an option you can take the knob off like someone else did(Honestly I ride my lurch with bluto 99% of the time and I never lock out my fork or touch the knob) or try and modify the frame but that would weaken the downtube.

If you are concerned about the frame you could get some 3M heavy duty tape and put it on the downtube to help save the paint in the event of a crash and it would also help to take some of the force. Steel is strong stuff you really are going to have to crash it hard to dent the frame. Deep scratch will most likely happen over structural frame damage. Just look for the stuff they put on cars to protect the headlights or body. Its almost like a heavy duty chain stay protector. Put a layer or two on the side / under the downtube and Im sure you will be fine. That is personally what I would do.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I wasn't planning on modifying the frame. Guess I'll try it out by taking off the lockout knob and see how it goes. Got the Bluto ordered. Can't wait to try it out!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Barheet said:


> I wasn't planning on modifying the frame. Guess I'll try it out by taking off the lockout knob and see how it goes. Got the Bluto ordered. Can't wait to try it out!


Someone pages and pages back wanted to take a hammer to his frame to see if he can dent it some for fork clearance. So just wanted to state bad idea if that was even a thought lol. I think you will be ok with out the lockout knob. Once I got my pressure set how I like it in the fork and tires I find I never need to adjust the fork. I just leave it open and have had no problems with climbing. Id still look at that frame protector 3M clear stuff. It might do the trick to help protect and its clear so it wont be to noticeable if you keep it on the bottom of the down tube and have it come on mid way incase the fork whips around.

Bluto is a ton of fun. I have a ridged fat bike and I thought hmmm why would anyone want a fork on a fat bike then I got one and it just opened up a whole new world of fun for trail riding! You will love it, the bike has some crazy BB clearance with the fork and the stance is just nasty!


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Barheet said:


> I am looking to possibly put a Bluto on my 1st generation Lurch. I just got the rubber spacers from BD a few days ago, so now it can be a reality. Has anyone installed a Bluto with success? How do you get the Bluto to clear the downtube?


I put a 120 mm bluto on a 1st gen Lurch and hated it...too wonky in geometry, but my Lurch is a medium and I should have been running a large, so that exacerbated the issue with geometry. I didn't mess with down tube clearance since I decided early on that it raised the front too much for my preferences. 100 mm maybe, 80'd be better, but horses for courses and we all ride different trails.

All that being said, look back for posts from NurseBen, he was the first to get a Bluto on a first gen, and even listed clearance measurements and lower headset cups part #'s to get the crown to clear. Keep in mind, his info might be specific to a certain sized frame and may not translate onto a smaller frame. Its been done, and some people really liked it.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Barheet said:


> I wasn't planning on modifying the frame. Guess I'll try it out by taking off the lockout knob and see how it goes. Got the Bluto ordered. Can't wait to try it out!


What length of travel did you get?


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

dgw2jr said:


> What length of travel did you get?


100mm. 120mm looked to mess up the geometry and 80mm is not enough.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

Barheet said:


> 100mm. 120mm looked to mess up the geometry and 80mm is not enough.


100mm will mess up the geometry as well. Even the 80mm is about an inch taller than the stock rigid fork.

Fortunately, the travel adjustment is pretty cheap and easy to do if you decide 100mm is too much.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

The FS Lurch sells with a 120mm Bluto. Is that a problem out of the box?


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

soarftb said:


> The FS Lurch sells with a 120mm Bluto. Is that a problem out of the box?


Yea. I think they sell them with the 120mm for marketing reasons. Customers, especially the type that are new to the sport, are easily sold on big numbers. So it sounds like a super awesome deal at first but really you're getting a bike with jacked up geometry that is too tall in the front end for what the frame was originally intended for.

The frame is built for a short fork and a BB height around 12.5 inches. Typical hardtail XC 29er geometry. BD should really spec these with 80mm forks.


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## Gambit21 (Feb 6, 2015)

watermonkey said:


> but my Lurch is a medium and I should have been running a large, so that exacerbated the issue with geometry.


Doesn't work that way.
The fork will alter/decrease the head angle on the large the same as a medium.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I dont know I love my 120 bluto it rides everything like a dream. Yes at 1st I felt it was a bit strange on the 1st ride but I was riding fat bikes with just ridged forks. I have to disagree the bike rides fine with 120mm of travel. And as for Geo on the 1st and 2nd Gen I thought they are the same other then the down tube changed for clearance. I think if you go from any drastic change in terms of travel its going to feel different. I know now I jump right on my lurch or 650b both with 120 forks and if I get on my other bikes with 100 travel I can totally tell the difference but not in a bad way just how the bike handles in terms of going of logs or steep rooty down sections.

The bluto fork can be changed in how much travel you have with kits so if you find you crave more you can make the 100 a 120. Also if it was on a small medium or large the geo would change the same.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Got the Bluto installed, but I didn't realize it would need a different bracket for the brake caliper. Anyway, I called Modernbike here in Des Moines and they said I needed this one.

While I was at it, I ordered the Hope QR skewer. I really like Modernbike. I have ordered from them before and highly recommend them. It helps that they are here in Des Moines and I get orders quickly.

On a side note, the Bluto does not fit under the downtube on my medium frame. It's not even close. I'll put some tape on it to prevent scratches, but otherwise I'm not too worried about it.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Thought I'd post a quick review of the 1st gen Lurch with a Bluto added. The bike feels like...well, a different bike. The 100mm of travel has raised the front end significantly. I wasn't sure if I'd like it, but I really do! It feels more aggressive. It rides just like my hardtail 29er that I sold to buy the Bluto. The fork is much more flexy than the steel fork, which does take a few minutes to get used to. But the fork is well built and handles the bumps extremely well. I don't sense any front wheel flex like I did with my 29er front wheel while cornering. It is very confidence inspiring going downhill. I did have to adjust my body position for steep climbs, though. But it still climbs like a goat. Having suspension on a fatbike is a different sensation than a 29er hardtail. The bike just feels more aggressive and more fun. 

With the Bluto and Mulefut rims, among a few other things, I have spent slightly less than $1700 on this bike. Still less than a new Pugs or Mukluk and it has a Bluto. Love it.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Hello, first post here, but have read the entire thread searching for tidbits of info. Lots of great stuff here! Ordered my 20" rigid Lurch on Thursday and am supposed to pick it up from the UPS center on Wednesday next week. They didn't have my size in a Bluto model, so I figured I'd just pick up a fork myself. With that in mind, Is the Bluto a drop in replacement other than hub spacers and a brake mount? Thanks in advance!


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

You will need a crown race and a star nut as well but yes other then that you will be able to just swap it back and forth. Most races are interchangeable, id say once you get it go to your local shop and see if they have any for sale or look around on ebay. They are cheap if you dont feel like removing the one and swapping it back if you wanna change the fork.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

First ride on the rigid Lurch this evening!!! Picked it up from UPS at lunchtime. No problems with assembly, and despite ordering a 20" which I thought might be on the large side, the bike fits perfectly. (I'm 5'10, 33" inseam, btw) I'm very glad I didn't go with the 18". I pulled out the screws from the dropouts and turned them around as others had suggested, but I didn't want to have just the head as a spacer. I slipped a 3/8" collar over the screw, and then a smaller nylock nut to fit into the radius of the dropout. The end result gives a strong spacer which positions the axle roughly halfway into the dropout. The 3/8" collar is the same size as the dropout in both height and width so there's really no way for the screw to bend. It's a nice fit. I had thought about making some form of custom spacer, but I think I'll run with this for a while and see if there's any need to do anything else. 

As for the first ride... it was only 8 miles, mostly paved paths and easy dirt trails, but I did eventually end up on the sandy shoreline of Lake Erie and was AMAZED at how well this bike does in sand. I don't recall ever having so much fun going so slow on a bike! I could easily stop in a trackstand and check out things in the sand then just pedal off with no stability issues whatsoever... truly a unique experience. On the way out of the beach area I saw a large area of piled grass clipping from the park maintenance people. This pile was roughly 2 ft deep, 30 ft long, and 20 ft wide... it was pretty huge. I rode past it chuckling that I wonder if this bike could float through THAT.... and then curiosity got the better of me and I went back and rode right over it in the granny gear. Again... just the strangest thing!!! I LOVE this bike and I haven't even put the Bluto on it yet! I do think I'll like it better with the Bluto, but when it arrives I've ordered the 80mm air shaft and tokens for it so that my geometry stays a bit more stock. I figure I have 4 inches of travel on my FS bike, so 3 inches of front fork on this fatty should be fine to take the edge off things. I can't say enough about how cool this bike is!!! I haven't ridden or raced in 15 years. I turned 50 this year and I'm trying to get motivated to get my cycling legs back... My FS bike has collected dust because there's just been no real desire to ride. After tonight's ride on the Lurch, I just want to get back out, explore trails, and do silly sh!t again!! If anyone is on the fence about getting one of these... my .02 is DO IT!!!


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

^^^I enjoyed reading this. Glad you are enjoying your new bike.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

I installed the 120mm Bluto today. I had emailed BD regarding 15mm hub spacers and they replied within 2 hours that they had sent them out to me for free. What great service! Three days later (today) they arrived as promised and I was able to install Bluto. I had ordered the caliper spacer from the above quote from Barheet, however after scratching my head for a while I went back and read the link for that part. That bracket is for a 200mm front rotor!!! The Lurch has 180mm front. I pondered things a bit and debated buying yet another bracket, but instead ran into town to the LBS and picked up an Avid 203mm rotor. It fits fine, and although I can't tell from riding in the driveway I'm sure theres additional brakeing power / mechanical advantage involved over the 180mm.

After getting Bluto installed, I started messing with head angles. The bike sure sits up tall with the 120mm fork!!! Holy cow! Anyway, out of curiosity I wrapped the top bearing area of the head tube with electrical tape until it's outer diameter matched (closely anyway) the OD of the bottom bearing housing. Now I have two reference points to put a digital protractor against and see what the head angles really are with this fork. Of course this is some serious backwoods engineering, but it's at least in the ballpark. I bled air from the fork (to compress it) to get to the following readings;

Stock AC of Cro-Mo fork = 70 degrees
80mm Travel at 20% Sag = 69 
100mm Travel at 30% Sag = 68.7
120mm Travel at 30% Sag = 68.2

So, as far as I can tell there is a difference of 1.8 degrees from stock when you're running the 120mm Bluto. Of course thats not going to be a static number as you move through compression and rebound strokes.

Just some brief browsing turned up this link, with this info regarding the angles I measured today.

Frame Geometry: Part 2 - Trail Handling | Singletracks Mountain Bike News

"In between these two extremes is the All Mountain or Trail bike, which attempts to be a good climber while still descending confidently. These are the most common bikes on the LBS showroom floor and will have a head tube angle in the 67 to 70 range and relatively short chainstays."

Soooo.... long story short... I had already bought the 80mm air tube and a bag of tokens, but I think I'm going to ride it as-is for a little while and see how it suits me.

Oh...and if anyone was wondering... latest generation Lurch frame clears Bluto by roughly a half inch. (as it should, right?)

37.6 lbs with 120 Bluto

Hope that helps someone!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Thought I'd pass on a couple of ideas. The space between the spokes and fork was too wide for my computer to work properly, so I used a rubber muffler hanger to make a spacer that kinda takes on the shape of the fork leg and won't scratch the paint. The other thing I did was to make some aluminum cuffs for my Yakima rack. Obviously the fatbike tires are too big to sit down into the stock tray, and although the bike rides fine up there with a strap on each tire, I wanted something to help hold things a little better while loading or unloading. I made the back side of the cuffs taller so I had a larger surface to press against while loading.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Good idea. You're also not going to be skipping "arm day" anytime you have to hoist that beast on top of the car. LOL!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> Good idea. You're also not going to be skipping "arm day" anytime you have to hoist that beast on top of the car. LOL!


Ha! I was just thinking the other day that it was odd that I could feel a little soreness in my triceps after riding this bike... I attributed it to absorbing bumps from the rigid front end, but I think you may be right! 40lb shoulder presses to get the thing on the car must be helping too!! 

On a side note... you referenced a caliper adapter in your earlier post #1528. Did that actually work out for you? I ordered from your link but turns out it was for a larger disc. Just curious if I misread something.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Yes, that part I quoted works. It's for a maximum rotor size of 200mm, so it works fine with a 180mm rotor.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

After mounting the caliper with the adapter, my 180mm disc was only maybe 1/3 into the pad area of the caliper. When I looked at the specs for the adapter it says it's for a 180mm rear, or 200mm front. I'm not sure how you'd have an adapter capable of working for a a range of 180 to 200 on the same application (front) since the brake pad area itself isn't much more than about an inch or so. I could be completely wrong (and my wife will vouch for that) but I wouldn't be surprised if you took a peek inside your front caliper from above, that you'd see you're only getting a small amount of contact area on your 180mm rotor. I had over 10mm worth of gap which was rectified by going to a 203mm front rotor. The only reason I even bring this up is because other people may be combing this thread, as I did, looking for all the pieces and parts to convert a rigid Lurch to a Bluto. Your post was the only mention I saw of needing an adapter, so THANK YOU for that!! I'd just like to clarify whether it really is the correct adapter. I now know it works with a 200mm rotor.... but I'm just not seeing how it could be set up properly for the stock 180mm rotor.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> Yes, that part I quoted works. It's for a maximum rotor size of 200mm, so it works fine with a 180mm rotor.


Just a quick observation in addition to my previous post.... Just because the adapter is spec'd for a "maximum size of 200mm" doesn't mean it works correctly with anything smaller. If the adapter is designed for a 200mm rotor, then anything smaller than 200mm is going to give you less and less brake pad contact. At some point you'd end up with the rotor not even entering the caliper (say 100mm rotor?) or in the case of the Lurch 180mm, the rotor just barely entering the caliper. Yes, the brakes "work" but not at all correctly, or efficiently. I believe your actual contact area is very, very minimal and you may be running the risk of binding your caliper.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

You are correct that I have less brake pad contact with the rotor. It looks to be about half. I'm not sure what it means to "bind the caliper," but braking seems undiminished. If this is not the correct bracket, I would be curious as to what the correct bracket is.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> You are correct that I have less brake pad contact with the rotor. It looks to be about half. I'm not sure what it means to "bind the caliper," but braking seems undiminished. If this is not the correct bracket, I would be curious as to what the correct bracket is.


I honestly don't know if the caliper will actually bind. I'm just thinking of it in terms of mechanics. I've used a generic picture of a caliper and drawn in my pre-school rendition of a rotor in yellow. Imagine using your hands to press the pads together on that partially inserted rotor. If the rotor was halfway through, or more then you would probably be able to press without issue and just end up with pads that wear like the example picture.

Now imagine that the rotor is only inserted halfway or less into the caliper.... as you press the pads together the unsupported top portion of the pads are prone to collapse inward and result in uneven pressure across the caliper surface. I see that as a potential for binding in the same way that calipers on automobiles can get "cocked" sideways and cause significant problems.

As far as which bracket is correct.... to be honest I started looking at the different adapter options which were included with the paperwork of the bracket. I decided that I was stuck with a "used" bracket that probably had very little chance of resale. By the time I eat the cost of the first bracket, then order what I "hoped" would be the correct bracket, I was essentially out $50 in which case running to the LBS and buying a 203mm rotor was a sure fix, and theoretically increased my braking power up front due to a larger rotor diameter. I can now sell my 180mm rotor and try to do a little damage control.

The pictures are purely for illustrative purposes... they are not Avid BB7 calipers or pads.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

^^^^^^if your brake pads look like this, then you're asking for an eventual brake failure and a trip to the ER. While it MAY work at first, as the pads wear, like in the above pics, the remaining pad will act as a block, preventing the contact part of pad from actually making contact with the rotor, thus rendering the brakes useless. You are overheating a smaller cross section of the rotor, and getting diminished braking performance. Get the right brake adapter.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

watermonkey said:


> You are overheating a smaller cross section of the rotor, and getting diminished braking performance. Get the right brake adapter.


Or get a 200mm rotor...


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> as the pads wear, like in the above pics, the remaining pad will act as a block, preventing the contact part of pad from actually making contact with the rotor, thus rendering the brakes useless.


 From the pic above, it looks like the pads are very close to that point already.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

watermonkey said:


> Get the right brake adapter.


I would be happy to, but I don't know which one is correct. Do you?


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

rex615 said:


> From the pic above, it looks like the pads are very close to that point already.


That picture I posted was from a google search.... not actual pads of mine or anyone I know of. I was trying to illustrate what would happen to pads if you run with a mismatched rotor / caliper setup. Neither the calipers pictured, nor the pads are even on a Lurch with BB7 brakes. Sorry if I confused things with the pictures.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I didn't even think about this being a problem, but I guess I never fully inspected the position of the caliper on the rotor. So, thanks for the catch! It looks like I need to pick up a 200mm rotor. When I switch back to the rigid fork in the winter, I'll have to swap out the bracket and rotor, which is annoying. Oh well.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> I would be happy to, but I don't know which one is correct. Do you?


If you'd rather not do a rotor swap to a 200mm rotor, then perhaps someone with a Bluto / Lurch directly from BD could take a picture of the adapter that came on their bike? I "THINK" it will be this one... but like I said, I would rather upgrade to a 200mm rotor than spend more money guessing on another adapter.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> I didn't even think about this being a problem, but I guess I never fully inspected the position of the caliper on the rotor. So, thanks for the catch! It looks like I need to pick up a 200mm rotor. When I switch back to the rigid fork in the winter, I'll have to swap out the bracket and rotor, which is annoying. Oh well.


Make sure you keep the adapter on each fork as they are not interchangeable. You'll only be swapping the rotor. I was thinking I would do the same thing, but after changing the travel on the 120 Bluto down to 80mm, I'm liking it so much I don't foresee me changing back to rigid, ever. The difference in handling between the 120 and the 80 is remarkable, IMO. The 120 is certainly rideable, but the slight head angle difference going to the 80 is really quite noticeable.... and all for the good.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Yep, that's what I meant. I miswrote it. Ran into town to get a 200mm rotor, but nobody had it, including ModernBike. They had it, but not in the store. So I ordered it. Anyway, thanks for the catch. It'll be nice to have a bit more power in the front.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Lurch update.........

So, after claiming this would be primarily a winter bike (and it will dammit) my wife insists that I ride it on the bulk of our rides to slow me down some.....so, I have ridden it about 40% of the time.

I love it.

The bluto does make for a more slack head angle but I have no issues riding this. We did a nice muddy, rooty, tacky rocky trail yesterday along with some rolling flowy stuff and the added traction was awesome.....cleared things the skinnies wouldn't be able to.

The jump down from 36T to 22T is too much for my trails though....thinking a 32T is in my future.

The Hope skewer is the way to go......

And I swapped out the cement tubes that were stock......so far so good and noticeably lighter.

It doesn't ride too heavy for me.......I dont' struggle as much on climbs as I thought I would. but when I go back to my 22-24lbs bikes I feel like a rocket...

Awesome bike for $2K or less.....


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

32T is the big ring this bike really should have been spec'd with. It has no business trying to make you tug a 36t gear around. I swapped mine to 32 after just a couple rides and I love it. It has plenty of gear for flat traveling on pavement to get to the trail, and it moved me over from the easiest 3-4 gears on the cassette to mid-cassette.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

EZSnow said:


> 32T is the big ring this bike really should have been spec'd with. It has no business trying to make you tug a 36t gear around. I swapped mine to 32 after just a couple rides and I love it. It has plenty of gear for flat traveling on pavement to get to the trail, and it moved me over from the easiest 3-4 gears on the cassette to mid-cassette.


Could not agree more.

My buddy's Framed fatty has a 28T "small" ring which is also a nice size. I think a 32 T is in my future.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Here are some pics of the finished product. First generation Lurch with Bluto, Mulefut rims tubeless, Hope rear skewer, and 200mm rotor up front that completely dwarfs the rear one. This is the summer package. In the winter, I'll switch back to the steel fork and smaller rotor, and probably a Bud and Lou. I'm going to ride these Snowshoes until the threads are popping out. I love them for summer riding.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Sharp looking bike! That front brake is HUGE!!!


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Barheet said:


> Here are some pics of the finished product. First generation Lurch with Bluto, Mulefut rims tubeless, Hope rear skewer, and 200mm rotor up front that completely dwarfs the rear one. This is the summer package. In the winter, I'll switch back to the steel fork and smaller rotor, and probably a Bud and Lou. I'm going to ride these Snowshoes until the threads are popping out. I love them for summer riding.
> 
> View attachment 1000313
> View attachment 1000314


Mine looks exactly the same without my truck's brake rotor on the front. I have yet to need more braking then I already have....but we'll see.

Ergons and clipless on mine though....


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

If we're showing off our "truck rotors" then here's mine. 203mm front rotor, Bluto shortened to 80mm (really the cats @ss for Bluto length, IMO), Hope skewer, Time ATAC pedals, WTB comfort zone clamp on grips, stock wheels, tires, and tubes (for now). 

I had a chance to ride this bike back to back along with my Trek Fuel FS bike earlier this week. I was really hoping to find that I would plod along on the fatty and just ride the Trek like a madman... accelerating up hills and climbs, hopping obstacles, carving turns, etc, etc.... all the typical visions of mountain biking grandeur... 
All of my preconceived notions were destroyed, one by one. The fatty weighs over 10lbs more than the Trek and yet the fatty was easier and more enjoyable to ride in every single circumstance I could put them through. I rode the same trail on both bikes, back to back. I imagine the weight penalty is there for acceleration, but the flip side of that is once you get that mass rolling, it also tends to CONTINUE rolling more so than the lightweight bike. All in all I came home with the realization that the fatty could do everything the FS bike could do, only better, except for manuals and hops... but that didn't seem to matter because the spongy tires and large amount of rotating mass just helped it steamroll over everything anyway! I'm 50 yrs old... I'm not going to be racing anymore and so the whole weight disadvantage thing just doesn't really apply to my riding. I can honestly say I passed far more young guys on 29ers than those who passed me. There has to be something to this bike....cuz it sure isn't my exemplary fitness level!

The other thing that hit home (almost literally) was that I bought this bike to SLOW DOWN on rides with my wife. She is a more relaxed cyclist than I have ever been. I would find myself coasting 80% of the time on the Trek, waiting for her to catch up. When I stumbled upon a fatbike in the LBS a few weeks ago I thought "Hey! this aught to slow me down or at least give me something to do while waiting on her". So that vision became reality this past Monday evening. While she got her sweat flowing on the paved path, I was in and out of the trees, up and down embankments, down and back up the sledding hill, and basically going all over like a kid on a sugar buzz... We were never more than 20-30 yards apart from one another, and both got our own unique "workout" in for the evening. It was absolutely great! Both of us said that was the best bike ride we'd ever been on together and we can't wait to do more. That would have been impossible without the fatty because half of the stuff I ran off to ride through would've been far too soft and loose to ride the skinny bike on. This is the perfect playbike, heavy weight and all. 

My Trek is now for sale because I just can't think of a place where I would ride it and not wish I had the fatty in case I wanted to veer off and explore.

Oh.... one last thing (sorry for babbling).... I LOVE the hum of the tires on pavement....lol I don't even have to say "on your left" anymore because people keep turning around to see what the hell is coming up behind them! 

I feel like a kid on a bike again!! I love my Lurch!


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^awesome writeup! I love seeing posts like this. Welcome to the club. It's a matter of days before your wife is going to want one too. You think you're having fun now? Wait until you get to play on this thing in the snow.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

I think I've been bitten as well.....I love riding my other bikes as well, but I kinda get the fatty thing now....kinda like a kid running around with big boots looking for puddles to stomp in. Frankly the crap I would ride around before and possibly widen a trail section.....you know there are only so many times you can go over the bars or bang a tire/rim hard into an unforeseen rock or deep root in a blind puddle before you avoid them some of the time on skinny tires....with the fatty.....I rode through the middle saying "try and stop me".....lol

I seriously will look at one for my wife.

Also....we rock the Yakima clampy hitch rack thing and found that dropping air pressure and a strong bungee cord allowed us to use the rack with the fatty without modification of the rack. just bring a real pump with you......not just one of those "bent over on the side of the trail looking like you are jerking off while pumping feverishly pumps" you carry in your back pack.

bcucoach2 - How did you swap to 80mm? If I get one for my wife she will need the drop to 80 or 100 from 120


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

River19 said:


> I kinda get the fatty thing now....kinda like a kid running around with big boots looking for puddles to stomp in.
> 
> bcucoach2 - How did you swap to 80mm? If I get one for my wife she will need the drop to 80 or 100 from 120


The kid looking for the puddle comment was hilarious (and apropos)!!

As for the fork, You'll need;

- RockShox Bluto Air Shaft Solo Air 80mm travel 26" A1 ~$30
- (4) Bottomless Tokens p/n 11.4018.032.003 ~$17
- 5w and 15w Fork Oil (I used motorcycle fork oil...same stuff...but much cheaper)
- Bluto Basic Service Kit (You'll need the crush washers for sure, and the other seals will be nice to have if you nick something up or need them down the line) ~$18
- Slick Honey or whatever lube you like for the stanchions / bumpers, etc... ~$15
- Bluto Service manual downloaded from the SRAM website
- Some type of long nose syringe in ml measurements to get the oil into the lowers through the little bolt hole.

Two observations...

I rode the 120mm Bluto before knocking it down to 80mm. The difference in bike handling is night and day (IMO). With the 120, the slacknicity (that's a technical term isn't it?) of it all makes the front end want to tuck under and just feels like a geometric mismatch. I could feel it immediately while riding at slow speeds, but as an example, take any mountain bike you own and while holding it by just the seat, lean it and walk it into the tightest turn you can (hands off the bars).... it'll only turn so far, no matter how you lean the bike, fast or slow.... Now, do the same with a 120mm Lurch... BUT BE WARNED, the wheel is going to turn in and tuck under and the bars are going to try and smack the top tube if you don't catch them in time. (No, I didn't catch mine in time...)

That difference in handling characteristic is blatently apparent when going from the 120 Bluto to the 80mm. The 80mm makes this bike feel like a cross country bike again... no bad habits, no weird tucking traits. As far as I can tell the difference is only 1.5 degrees or so in the head angle, but there has to be more going on with rake and trail along with that head angle change. I originally thought "eh...1.5 degrees or so... big deal... 120mm looks bad ass...I'm keepin it!" And then I felt the difference (remember I purchased this bike as a rigid) and said "this ain't right".

Is 120mm rideable?? Oh Absolutely.... as many people have already found, but I must say again, in my "old man" viewpoint... the 80mm is really what this frame is wanting. I would venture to say that unless you're just bombing down ski hills, hitting logs, rocks, and stray mountain goats like a pro DH rider wannabe, the 80mm serves this bike perfectly. I'm #200 (200#?) with a camelbak and while I have maxed the stroke on 80mm according to the red rubberband, I have NOT felt it bottom.

2nd observation (you forgot I mentioned two, didn't you?)

If I were to do the travel change again, I would VERY seriously consider spending the money on the Extended Temp Range seal kit from Turnagain which will allow you to keep the Bluto on during whatever season / temp you decide to ride in.

I've sold my 180mm disk on ebay because I have no intention of going back to rigid. When winter comes I'll try the Bluto as is, but if it has problems, I'll be putting the ETR kit into it. I wish I had known about the ETR kit BEFORE i did my travel change... Live and learn, right?

Leaving the soapbox now...


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

I sold my 29er last month. I do still have my road bike, but I am a full time fatty rider.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Also I must disagree that you need to be doing downhill stuff to need more than 80mm on the Bluto. The aggressive trails around here cause me to use all the travel on a 80mm fork. But 100mm is enough. As for the geometry change, it's a slight adjustment, but I like the change.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Barheet said:


> Also I must disagree that you need to be doing downhill stuff to need more than 80mm on the Bluto. The aggressive trails around here cause me to use all the travel on a 80mm fork. But 100mm is enough. As for the geometry change, it's a slight adjustment, but I like the change.


I guess all I was saying is that even though I do use all the travel of the fork, I haven't felt it do anything harsh at all...and I can't help but think back to my XC rigs of the past that had 80mm on them and they always did fine if you set them up properly. The geometry change was more than worth losing a little travel, at least for me. You're probably a faster and more aggressive rider than I am so as with all things, YMMV... If we all liked the same things, we'd be a pretty boring bunch!!


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

True dat. There's a dude around here that runs full suspension rig, I think it's the Salsa Horsethief with 120mm travel. He swears it's necessary. So yeah, I dunno, lol.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

It's interesting, I really don't mind the 120, which when set with 25% sag or so feels fine to me. I go back and forth among the bikes in my sig and trust me those early original Ibis frames are quick handling rigs, but when I get on the fatty it takes maybe 30seconds to get used tot he handling. Heck it feels different anyways due to the monster truck tires.

I find the overall length of the bike more noticeable than the head angles. My Rush is very long and this bike is right there with it, the two Ibis bikes are shorter wheelbase and it is noticeable. I kinda like how the Lurch rides and I have been fighting a love affair with riding it as I feel like I'm cheating on my other bikes......lol

This weekend I'll be on the Cannondale I think.......or maybe the 2001.......


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

This post is for Joe from Bikes Direct, or any other BD people. I know you're reading this. I mean, you link this thread on your site. 

The stock rear skewer that comes with the bike is total crap. It slides all over the place in the dropout. I emailed BD customer service awhile back and asked them for a replacement skewer, but their response was, "Tighten it harder." Yeah, I did that. I tightened it to the point where I was afraid of bending or breaking it, but it still slid in the dropout. 

I purchased a Hope skewer and it hasn't moved once, and I didn't even tighten it very hard. In fact, I can't MAKE it slide in the dropouts, and believe me, I've tried. I've ridden as fast as I could down a hill, then locked up the rear brake and skidded for 30-40 feet. It didn't move in the dropout. That would never happen with the stock skewer. 

So why don't you stop with the lame excuses of "it needs to be tightened harder," man-up and confess that the stock skewer sucks.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Barheet said:


> So why don't you stop with the lame excuses of "it needs to be tightened harder," man-up and confess that the stock skewer sucks.


I would "man up" and try to tighten it harder; some people are stronger that others, so YMMV. I have the stock skewer on my lurch, weight 225lbs, crank like a horse and ride it daily on some some pretty technical single track and I have yet for it to move.


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Archangel6 said:


> I would "man up" and try to tighten it harder; some people are stronger that others, so YMMV. I have the stock skewer on my lurch, weight 225lbs, crank like a horse and ride it daily on some some pretty technical single track and I have yet for it to move.


Lol tell that to the people who bent the lever by tightening it too hard. I tightened it so hard that it left a red mark on my hand for 10 minutes. With the the Hope skewer, which was $23, it's easy as pie. Also I have no idea what ymmv means.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Mine doesn't slide. I guess MMMV, too.


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## Beicster (Feb 9, 2007)

I suppose it is possible that there was a bad batch so that some work and others don't.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Barheet said:


> Lol tell that to the people who bent the lever by tightening it too hard. I


If the you are able to bend the lever, it is likely the cam pivots were not lubed.


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Beicster said:


> I suppose it is possible that there was a bad batch so that some work and others don't.


prepping the dropouts and tightening the p!ss out of the skewer is what worked for me.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Archangel6 said:


> prepping the dropouts and tightening the p!ss out of the skewer is what worked for me.


I also prepped the dropouts, but instead tightened the crap out of the skewer, a subtle nuance from tightening the piss out it, one method is standard, the other method is metric. These bikes are all metric. Get it straight. YMAMMMV.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

I never even gave the stock skewer a try... I immediately replaced it with a Hope and haven't had anything move yet. 

On the up-side... I was able to sell the stock skewer on eBay for $450. 

Incredibly, there are people out there clamoring for the latest technology regarding "Intertia Controlled Variable Wheelbase Systems"... (Not enough free time today to come up with a clever acronym) 

Wait... got one.
YAMAHAMMV


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

I know a lot of you have already taken the time and trouble to post numbers in the forum, but If anyone wants stock components weighed, I have the bike apart and can get info for you on a good gram scale.
I failed to weigh the bare frame before it went off to be powder coated, but I can weigh it when it comes home Wednesday. 

I don't mean to open the whole "It's a fatbike.... you shouldn't worry about weight" can of worms... but it's my bike... and since I'm rebuilding it with my personal touches... I"m going to also see how many ounces I can shed in the process....just for fun!!


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

bcucoach2 said:


> I failed to weigh the bare frame before it went off to be powder coated, but I can weigh it when it comes home Wednesday.


I'd be interested to know what it weighs


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bare frame without the fork would be interesting.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Not sure how much powder coating might add over factory paint, but I wouldn't think it would be much. I'll get a weight either way.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

bcucoach2 said:


> Not sure how much powder coating might add over factory paint, but I wouldn't think it would be much. I'll get a weight either way.


"Factory Paint" on the Lurch is powder coat, albeit not very thick in places.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Messing around with the front wheel today... weighed the stock tire, tube, rimstrip, and wheel w/o rotor. 

Tried a few variations of tape combinations for lighter rim strips and ended up settling on a single wrap of black duct tape at 20g compared to the stock strip at 145g. 

I used baby powder on the adhesive side to get rid of the tack (which also helped with the fresh Q-tube and tire bead seating). 

Total weight savings for a change of rimstrip and tube was 17.65 ounces for just the front wheel assembly. 

Painter says the frame will be ready to pick up at lunch tomorrow... I hope like hell I like the color!!!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

My 20" Lurch frame weighs 3338 g ( 7lbs 5.74 oz) 

Surly ICT in 18" is 2920 ( 6lbs 7oz)


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## Archangel6 (Sep 16, 2008)

bcucoach2 said:


> My 20" Lurch frame weighs 3338 g ( 7lbs 5.74 oz)
> 
> Surly ICT in 18" is 2920 ( 6lbs 7oz)


Wow - (same frame) I didn't think it would weigh that much! So once I replace mine with the carbon frame (SN01) I should be around the 26lb +/- range.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

bcucoach2 said:


> My 20" Lurch frame weighs 3338 g ( 7lbs 5.74 oz)
> 
> Surly ICT in 18" is 2920 ( 6lbs 7oz)


Thanks for taking the time to record that for us.:thumbsup:


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Well...it's lost a few lbs and if the LBS can get their act together I should be dropping a little more soon. I actually paid a little more to support them and have them order the RF cinch setup for me (going to 1x10, 28x11-40) but they messed up and ordered the Sram compatible chainring instead of the cinch, and also ordered an X-style 100mm BB instead of the 30mm x 100mm needed for the cinch.... arghhh... Drives me nuts when I can research whats needed, but the owner of the LBS just half-asses the order.

Anyway... lost 3lbs, 1 oz lbs so far, but with most of that in the wheels I'm really surprised how much easier it is to accelerate. I wasn't going to switch to Q tubes until I flatted, or got really bored.... but while waiting for the paint and parts I figured I'd go ahead and switch.. I'm really glad I did now!

I should lose almost exactly 1 more lb (15.6oz) after putting on the new seat, seat post and cinch cranks. 

No, it's not necessary... but it's fun... and there won't be another Lurch quite like it. 

Weight savings per postal scale

Front Wheel -473g
Rear Wheel -501g
Front Derailleur assy -363
Seat Clamp -31
Stem -28

Original crankset, rings and BB = 832
Cinch with 28t and BB = 656
Forgot to weight the wolf 40T...


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Nice work. What's the total weight now? I went 1X10 early on with mine and I love it. No snow here and pretty flat, so no need for super low. In fact, you probably know the area given your headbadge! Lol. 

If my memory serves correctly, mine is around 33 or 34lbs as 1X with everything stock except the tubes and rim strips...but I'm running th carbon fork. I went two layers of duct tape, one inside out, and 24" Q-tubes. Tubeless hasn't worked out for me, but I'd like to inch my way closer to 30 for sure.

I'm kind of suprised at the stock crank and BB weight you posted, it's actually not too bad. I wouldn't mind finding a takeoff crank/BB for my Mongoose! I am pretty sure that giant square taper crank is a beast....and the 165mm arms with 96 BCD are kind of a turnoff.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

dledinger said:


> Nice work. What's the total weight now?


Thanks! I don't know the total weight yet... our "high tech" digital bathroom scale seems to be a tad psychotic and will vary it's findings based on .... mood?...lunar activity?...hell I don't know. The thing just annoys me!!

When I get everything on the bike and how I want it (no OCD here....lol) I'll take it in to work on the uber fed-ex scale and get an accurate weight. I do know what I've shed so far, only because I trust the digital postage scale... otherwise I'd be in the dark.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

You motivated me to go hang some parts on mine for my wife. I put a Fire Eye 30T front ring and added an 40T expander. I'm not real familiar with SRAM 10 speed stuff...this is the first expander sprocket I've added that wasn't with a Shimano derailluer. I've been swearing by XT with a RAD cage....but dang this X9 was EASY to set up. Going to be an awesome ride.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Oh...and my bathroom scale shows 33.8 on my setup.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

dledinger said:


> Oh...and my bathroom scale shows 33.8 on my setup.


Wow...that's a great weight! I figure with this bike, and especially with stock rims, I'll be pretty happy to get to anywhere near the low 30's.

This is my first bike with SRAM.. so it's rather new to me also. My last race bike (in 2000) was all Xt and XTR with a rapid rise RD which I just LOVED.... and I still miss. I have to admit this X9 stuff is shifting very cleanly so far, even with some poorly timed high load shifts.

I did take the analog bath scale out to the garage and it read right around 34.... but there again, I don't know how far off it is.

I'll be curious to see how well a single wrap of black duct tape holds up as a rim strip... only 20g as opposed to ~145-150g for the stock strip.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I think you'll do fine with the tape. I did my other fat bike with cheap blue duct tape, then a single layer of house wrap tape to get rid of the stickiness. The tape is plenty strong with room to spare. Love your idea with the baby powder. I'll finitely try that next time it is all apart.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Finally have the bike done how I want it and brought it in to weight it.

35.25 lbs on a certified scale. I knew my bathroom scale was lying to me!!!

I was hoping for under 35, but it is what it is. I love the bike with the new paint and parts, had a lot of fun making it "mine". For the money invested, you still can't touch the component level without doubling the money. It's not the lightest, but it "lighter" and still completely reliable. 

I"m a little confused as to the comments I've read about spending money on this bike as opposed to going with a "quality" frame set or bike.... 

Unless this frame literally cracks, or bends, or does something of that nature, what defines a "quality" frameset over this one? 
It hasn't done anything weird with my 200lbs on it, and I haven't heard of anyone breaking one yet. I know some had issues with caliper mount tabs on the fork.... is that the biggest complaint? It's slightly heavier than other frames...sure... but I need to drop about 20lbs myself before I can condemn a frame for being 1.5lbs heavier than a high dollar bike.

My bike is now MUCH better spec'd, lighter, better suspended, one of a kind, and still less expensive than a new ICT. (Am I making a big assumption here in that the ICT is a "quality" bike??) Seems like a no brainer to me, but it wouldn't be the first time I've missed something!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

This bike is a great deal, IMO.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Oh...and now that the glitch is fixed....I think 35lbs with a Bluto in your frame size isn't so bad! It's a suspended, steel-framed fat bike, after all!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

dledinger said:


> Oh...and now that the glitch is fixed....I think 35lbs with a Bluto in your frame size isn't so bad! It's a suspended, steel-framed fat bike, after all!


Which glitch was that??


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

I meant the site was down when I was trying to reply.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

I've got several months and a few hundred miles on mine with the Bluto and so far so good.

Only changes have been Q Tubes, Hope Skewer, Ergons and pedal swaps in and out for SPDs for summer and platforms for winter.

so far I love it.

I climb a bunch in Northern New England and even when I ahve to put my head down and climb fireroad slogs or long pavement, I find the granny unncessary. That being said, I think I will drop a few teeth off the "big ring" of the 2x10 as the drop to the granny is silly and too drastic.

Bike is incredibly stable and fun.

I would say compared to my XC bikes.....this is like riding a bike with no power steering.....more effort to maintain lines etc due to the fat aspect. But traction in gobs.....


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## Mockpo (Jan 5, 2015)

I searched but didnt find anything about front/fork racks. Has anyone tried one other than the OMM? The Axiom works great for the rear but I'd like the option to have bags up front too.


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## Velonomad (Dec 13, 2005)

Blackburn now has a Fat Bike rack. Fits front or rear

OUTPOST FAT BIKE RACK


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## Mockpo (Jan 5, 2015)

Thx, looks great..will order one and post a review.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

bcucoach2 said:


> If anyone wants stock components weighed, I have the bike apart and can get info for you on a good gram scale.


Did you happen to get a weight on the stock handlebars when you had your apart? I'm probably going to swap to a riser bar when I get my Lurch and would like to be able to compare weights.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

bcucoach2 said:


> If anyone wants stock components weighed, I have the bike apart and can get info for you on a good gram scale.


Did you happen to get a weight on the stock handlebars when you had yours apart? I'm probably going to swap to a riser bar when I get my Lurch and would like to be able to compare weights.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Just wondering if any one knows if this is a known problem with the crankset / bottom bracket but I seem to have play in my crankarms when they are at 3 and 9 o clock position. I can turn the silver spacers as well, just wanted to see if others are having similar play. I have gone over everything and cant figure out if its just because of the crankset using spacers or if there is something wrong with the crankset its self. I replaced the bottom bracket with a stock one I found on ebay brand new and still same play. No matter how tight you tighten the compression bolt down you still can feel the crank arms move a bit and the spacers still turn. On the bottom bracket its self I have 2 black spacers on one side and 1 black spacer on the other. Is this also what others have as well? Im just trying to think if maybe even one of the black spacers is a hair of a mm off. I contacted BD about it and got a poor response from them so I sent them another email and still havnt heard back from them. 

Other then the crankset I have been having problems since the start I love the bike. Have tons of miles on it and its my main ride but Im a bit upset that Im not having any luck with this BB/crankset. I see they are shipping them out with Ride cranks, Id honestly rather have the lower end ride race face cranks then these. These have been nothing but a problem since day one.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Raceface ride cranksets are definately an improvement.

I have 2 spacers on my nds amd 1 spacer on the ds. 

Check the crank spindle for wear marks. Its wierd that it would only have play in that one spot.

If you're not doing something silly, like tightening the crank pinch bolts before the preload or have a bunch of dirt in there, I'd most likely point my finger at a worn crank spindle as you've already replaced bearings.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Thanks Mike, you kind of just confirmed what I was thinking that crank spindle is worn. I have cleaned the BB, spacers, crankarms the whole 9 a number of times, gone over torque spec for the BB no matter what it gets play. I just ordered a set of the ride crankarms and bb for 110. Figured I got a ton of use out of these and they are the only thing I wanted to upgrade on the bike so might as well. These are not going to last much longer. I might just beat the heck out of them till they are fully destroyed but I doubt they will even see it till this years snow lol. Its my main ride so it gets the most action these days. Funny thing is I have had no problems with the QR moving or the hubs "Knock on wood" and this one is one from the 1st shipment. Only thing I did have a problem and still do is the QR on the seatpost sucks, my post slips daily have to readjust it once per ride. Just use some tape to mark it but even used carbon paste to see if that would help the slipping.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

If your bb bearings siezed, your spindle basically turns inside the bb race. Happened to one of mine, thankfully had it greased and caught it before it caused issues. 

I haven't had any hub, seat clamp or qr issues with mine. Ive worn out the chain rings with like 100 miles on them and hate setting up the wheels/tires tubeless but it's been a blast. 

It holds up to abuse well, I'm only like 10 sec behind on my 3 min flow trail behind my nomad and it's held up to the dj jumps just fine. I was going to build an aggro ht but feel it's not necessary with the fat b nimbles on it in the summer and bud/lou in the winter.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

So, it's been a while since i posted about my lurch. I sold it and bought it back several months later. The paint was scratching, putting and chipped in a few places. I sanded the frame, primered it and then painted it with metallic black automotive paint. Then applied 2 cans of clear lacquer, cut and buffed the entire frame. I then paint protection filmed most of the frame. It turned out awesome.

Added a bluto, changed the cockpit and put some fat b nimbles on for the summer. Bike is rocking on and can't be happier with it.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

Utahbikemike said:


> Raceface ride cranksets are definately an improvement.


The Raceface components have disappeared from the Lurch spec sheet. Anyone know the scoop?

edit: honest they did, but they're back now

edit validation:

Hi,

You are NOT going crazy!!! IT informs me that there was an issue over the weekend with some code and the listing reverted back to the old spec.

Thanks,
Chris


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## Norsk (Sep 22, 2015)

*First post and first BIG issue*

Good day all, this is my first post on here so I thought Id make it a good one. I have had my lurch+bluto since about February (2015) and I noticed this last Friday I have a crack in my frame.  I don't beat my bike too bad, curbs, mountain bike trails in Duluth and the Twin Cities. I am really just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and wanted to see if you guys think it might be a defect. The crack in on the seat tube at the drive side seat stay. I also have two small cracks at the seat clamp area. I don't have the seat post very high (because im kinda short). Sorry if my pics done work. Thank you all for your help, have a great day eh. Takk


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Contact BD.. they do have a lifetime warranty


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Yeah man shoot them an email they are normally really good with stuff like that. Not sure what to make of it but thats a nasty crack in the frame for sure. I have abused mine since I got it (1st batch of bluto) and my frame is still strong as heck.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

The rear cluster on my Lurch looks different, it doesn't have that tab.

What size is yours?


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## Norsk (Sep 22, 2015)

Good morning all, Thank you guys for your replies. I sent bikes direct an email and am waiting for a response. rex615 I believe my frame is an xsmall (14") I am 5'4-6" depending on shoes.  It fits pretty well. I think the tab that is on there is for a fender. Thanks again for everyone's help. Have a great day eh. Takk


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## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

I'm thinking of buy the Lurch. 6'7" so going for the 22" frame. Anyone close in height or running the 22"? Would enjoy your thoughts on the fit.
H


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

I'm 6'4" on a 22". I put wider bars and a shorter stem on right away, and I'm running the seat pretty far forward. I'm planning to replace the (bent) seatpost with one with less (or zero) offset to shorten the bike up. There is also plenty of seatpost still in the frame to go up for someone taller. 

I'm happy with the fit regardless, and with a little wider bars and the seat set back, there's probably plenty of room for a 6'7" guy.


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## Shelterock (Apr 30, 2015)

EZSnow said:


> I'm 6'4" on a 22". I put wider bars and a shorter stem on right away, and I'm running the seat pretty far forward. I'm planning to replace the (bent) seatpost with one with less (or zero) offset to shorten the bike up. There is also plenty of seatpost still in the frame to go up for someone taller.
> 
> I'm happy with the fit regardless, and with a little wider bars and the seat set back, there's probably plenty of room for a 6'7" guy.


Sweet, that's good to hear! Thanks for the quick response. H


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## Mockpo (Jan 5, 2015)

Shelterock said:


> I'm thinking of buy the Lurch. 6'7" so going for the 22" frame. Anyone close in height or running the 22"? Would enjoy your thoughts on the fit.
> H


Im 6-4, long legs on a 22, i added the longest Thomson post and its out pretty far with room to spare. I expect yours would be quite high and exposed. Wider bars were needed as well and for me, putting those bars up at a higher angle, 32 degree if i recall. I got it sized in well now for myself but im not an aggressive MB rider...i got it for treking/exercise in the snow...though now that i think of it, ive been on it more than my others this summer....i really like it. Has anyone with the 1.0 straight down tube on a 22" fit the Bluto without any modification or changing out the headset?


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Bike pronography

San Francisco Peaks - Flagstaff, AZ
Sept 26 2015
























Grand Canyon in the background here - can't really see in this picture though.

Snow is coming fellas


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Could I ask a favor of one you fine Lurch owners, could one of you please measure your seat tube from the approx center of your BB to the top of the seat tube? 

I'm curious if MB is using the same measuring technique that Surly uses where they only measure to where the seat tube meets the brace as illustrated in the pic attached. Which if your considering a dropper post, can make a diff in which drop you can use.

Thanks


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

Mine is 16" from center of the BB to top of the seat tube - not where the seat tube meets the brace.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

So sorry , I did not see this question, and I'm sure you've moved on either way. I did not get a weight from the stock bars and have since cut them as an experiment, so nothing of value would come from them at this point. Sorry again for missing this question!

Sorry, didn't select the quote...


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

So jealous!! What a beautiful place! Nice Pics... thanks for sharing them!

Sorry, selected wrong reply option... no quote!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Looking good! Really nice job. I went to Bud & Lou this past week and am really happy with them. Another "horrible" place to ride I see.... wow.. I need to move West some day.

Sorry, selected wrong reply option... no quote!

Mod, feel free to delete / clean up my mess!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

BikesFloat said:


> Did you happen to get a weight on the stock handlebars when you had your apart? I'm probably going to swap to a riser bar when I get my Lurch and would like to be able to compare weights.


So sorry , I did not see this question, and I'm sure you've moved on either way. I did not get a weight from the stock bars and have since cut them as an experiment, so nothing of value would come from them at this point. Sorry again for missing this question!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Bike pronography
> 
> San Francisco Peaks - Flagstaff, AZ
> Sept 26 2015
> ...


So jealous!! What a beautiful place! Nice Pics... thanks for sharing them!


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Utahbikemike said:


> So, it's been a while since i posted about my lurch. I sold it and bought it back several months later. The paint was scratching, putting and chipped in a few places. I sanded the frame, primered it and then painted it with metallic black automotive paint. Then applied 2 cans of clear lacquer, cut and buffed the entire frame. I then paint protection filmed most of the frame. It turned out awesome.
> 
> Added a bluto, changed the cockpit and put some fat b nimbles on for the summer. Bike is rocking on and can't be happier with it.


Looking good! Really nice job. I went to Bud & Lou this past week and am really happy with them. Another "horrible" place to ride I see.... wow.. I need to move West some day.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Lurch fitted with Bud & Lou... I've only ridden them this week, dry and wet trails, and have yet to feel anything slip. It's like riding a two wheel tractor.


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

Bike'nSplit said:


> Mine is 16" from center of the BB to top of the seat tube - not where the seat tube meets the brace.


Thank you very much that was just the info I needed. :thumbsup:


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## octavian8 (Oct 2, 2015)

Unsatisfied with BikesDirect:
I have been unable to get/buy a steel freehub replacement from BikesDirect for the last 5 months. I have an original model lurch, and yes this is an old issue I know. Apparently, they ran out of them, and have not been helpful in helping me find another source. This a product defect that BikesDirect is not satisfying the warranty for. What are my options ?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

octavian8 said:


> Unsatisfied with BikesDirect:
> I have been unable to get/buy a steel freehub replacement from BikesDirect for the last 5 months. I have an original model lurch, and yes this is an old issue I know. Apparently, they ran out of them, and have not been helpful in helping me find another source. This a product defect that BikesDirect is not satisfying the warranty for. What are my options ?


Its an uphill battle for sure. However, Novatec's site now lists a new US contact, whereas a few weeks ago is was BS company called Bikefetish that didn't really seem to exist. I would try this info below. If that fails, the only other source I've found for Novatec small parts is Bdop cycling, but haven't used them nor does their website list small parts on a hub specific level for any of the D201 or D202 hubs.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Hi- octavian8
Please understand- we are at the mercy of our suppliers. In this case it is Novatec. 
We deal with our factory contacts in Asia so you may have luck contacting the USA branch directly? I don't handle the warranty / service so can't comment more about your specific case and I will refer you to Novatec to support their hub.
Joe



octavian8 said:


> Unsatisfied with BikesDirect:
> I have been unable to get/buy a steel freehub replacement from BikesDirect for the last 5 months. I have an original model lurch, and yes this is an old issue I know. Apparently, they ran out of them, and have not been helpful in helping me find another source. This a product defect that BikesDirect is not satisfying the warranty for. What are my options ?


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

octavian8 said:


> Unsatisfied with BikesDirect:
> I have been unable to get/buy a steel freehub replacement from BikesDirect for the last 5 months. I have an original model lurch, and yes this is an old issue I know. Apparently, they ran out of them, and have not been helpful in helping me find another source. This a product defect that BikesDirect is not satisfying the warranty for. What are my options ?


I made contact with Nettie at Novatec, USA. Emai: [email protected]. She got back to me FAST. They have these steel freehubs in stock, and will facilitate shipment through their distributor Bike Fettish.

THIS IS A BIG DEAL - there is finally a viable contact for us to find the small parts to replace lost parts and to maintain these Novatec hubs.


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## octavian8 (Oct 2, 2015)

watermonkey said:


> I made contact with Nettie at Novatec, USA. Emai: [email protected]. She got back to me FAST. They have these steel freehubs in stock, and will facilitate shipment through their distributor Bike Fettish.
> 
> THIS IS A BIG DEAL - there is finally a viable contact for us to find the small parts to replace lost parts and to maintain these Novatec hubs.


Thanks, I was able to get a steel freehub from Novatec support. They were quick/easy to deal with.

The 'solution' I'm going to try:
1. Use replacement steel freehub.
2. Replace the original cassette with a Shimano XT so as more cogs are spidered together. This cassette is discussed earlier in this thread. The cassette was about $60.


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## octavian8 (Oct 2, 2015)

duplicate post


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Did my first endurance race on the Lurch last Saturday. Crashed and bent the hanger on the first lap and couldn't shift more than 3 gears for the rest of the race. Still I finished. Bike handled great...loving it.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

It's tight... Like going to need to grind off a cable guide, tight... But they fit, barely! 

Just hate that I have the first gen Lurch with the weinmanns instead of the mulefuts the newer ones are coming with...


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## rain100 (Sep 12, 2014)

MaximumX said:


> It's tight... Like going to need to grind off a cable guide, tight... But they fit, barely!
> 
> Just hate that I have the first gen Lurch with the weinmanns instead of the mulefuts the newer ones are coming with...


That looks awesome! Makes me wish I could keep mine. How close does the chain come to contacting the tire?

I would highly recommend switching to the mulefuts if you can.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

rain100 said:


> I would highly recommend switching to the mulefuts if you can.


Send me yours if you're not keeping the bike!! ;-)

Zero issues with chainline. Once that seattube cable guide is gone it should be fine, though I might take off the front derailleur anyway. I don't imagine I'll be doing much "big-ring cruising" on these tires...


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## cavedweller32 (Sep 12, 2014)

I need advice on a rack for my lurch...I want to strap a chainsaw on the back of this puppy!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My front hub bearings are shot. Anyone know the sizes for the stock novatec hubs?


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

cavedweller32 said:


> I need advice on a rack for my lurch...I want to strap a chainsaw on the back of this puppy!


I highly recommend the Axiom Fatliner DLX rear rack. You can see in post #1346 my mounting and slight modifications. The rack has close to 1500 miles on it since without a single problem. The only thing I am going to do this winter is make some thicker aluminum mounts to replace the thin banana shaped offset mounts (the bottom mount). The mounts don't look like they are going to fail at all but I do see that they sway just a touch under "my" loads.









My left pannier has a cooler that holds a 12 pk, the right holds everything else, the trunk bag has my amp+battery and has room for another 6 pk(or anything else). I haven't ever put a number on weight but as you can imagine it's not skinny...

For $56 it's a no brainer IMO. All you have to do is make a saw scabbord/ holder and bungee it down and go.

I'll post later how I mount my saw as in a couple of weeks I will be going to do some trail trimming.

Let us see how you tackle it when you do !!

Dirty


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## Mr Pink57 (Jul 30, 2009)

Does anyone have pics of the 2016 and specifically the rear axle, not sure if its a thru bolt/axle or still a QR the description is confusing to me on the website.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Rear is QR on all Lurch. The rear hub can be used as a thru-axle but comes configured as QR 

Honestly I am unsure if the thru-axle conversion parts come with or it might be a simple as pulling off the end caps?


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## dirtyroadie66 (Nov 21, 2014)

It's been a while since I've been here. Looks like freehub body issues persist. Glad Novatec is finally helping out. They flat out ignored my requests. Bikes Direct was great and helped me out. Took the fat girl out for a ride last saturday and found that the two sets of bearings in the freehub body were rusted up solid. Luckily I am a parts hoarder and still had my crappy broken alloy freehub body around. The bearings in that were fine. Just popped 'em out, pried out the seals, stuffed some more grease in them then put them in the steel freehub body. Probably got wet earlier this year when I was riding in a creek that was waist deep. I took all the other bearing apart and dried them out, regreased and reassembled them but must have forgot those two. Ready now for another 1100 miles.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Anyone upgraded their wheelset want to get rid of the originals?

Let me know


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> Anyone upgraded their wheelset want to get rid of the originals?
> 
> Let me know


The "original" originals, like the Weinmanns? I'm looking into upgrading mine in the next few weeks...


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> My front hub bearings are shot. Anyone know the sizes for the stock novatec hubs?


Hi - it is the 6902 Sealed cartridge bearing
one for each side


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

I was thinking about upgrading the wheels but my hubs are holding up and the stock rims are only 195g heavier then a set of mulefut 80's so till they get destroyed Im keeping them. I will say I am envious that the new bikes are coming with race face cranks. I ended up upgraded mine to the same ones as I had a massive amount of play in the crankset. I swapped BB and after a few rides play came back, I had the crank preset so tight I thought I was going to strip it and still got a ton of play. I checked my friends lurch and same issue with his cranks. I tried using FSA 1mm spacers on each side and got the play out for a ride or two then it came back. I dumped the crankset and no problems what so ever.

Talked to BD from the time it started (few months after the 1st shipment of blutos got sent out) and they said no parts. Months later still same response, frustrated and pissed off I got a set of Race Face from Wiggles and have been great.

I also bent the stock seatpost somehow 0.o..... I was swapping posts out so my friend could ride it and didnt wanna lower the post with out losing my mark so swapped to a backup post. Turns out it was bent, luckily I had a nice race face post sititng in my parts bin and swapped it out for that. 

My final 2cents on the bike are this:
If you take away the post, stem, bars and crankset you have a solid bike for the money. I dig the snowshoes even tho they just got swapped for nates as I have almost worn them out. The frame is great and no issues what so ever, the fork is holding up to tons of abuse on the trails and no issues what so ever! The wheel set is not the lightest but then again we are riding fat bikes and ones not made of carbon fiber  , the seat is actually not that bad at all and I enjoyed using it till I upgraded to something of my own personal liking. The BB7's work great and more then needed to stop me at 155-160lb. X9 Rear is doing great and X9 shifter is doing its job! I went with a 1x10 setup as well. The cassette is not worn out but my chain is just about due to be replaced. Nothing bad but tons of miles and 1x set up I feel beats them up a bit more. Wheelset isnt to bad if you are running tubes in it, to setup tubeless you would probably need to do split tubes but for me I have no interest in it.

So with that said for 1300 you get a solid foundation and Im happy with the bike. I think the parts and frame are well worth the money if you keep in mind you need to swap out a few things out of the bike. I have beaten the heck out of my lurch and its still running strong. The fork is great tho I do find my self thinking about getting the carbon one for when I just wanna keep it simple or go faster! For 1300 I would have gotten a much lower speced bike with similar bits just slapped with logos so for me the minor upgrades have been worth it. 

My upgrades to the bike are:
1x10 set up using RF NW 30T and 42 Oneup rear kit
Race Face: Bars, stem, post, crankset
Surly Nate tires / 4.7 Snowshoes (after I used up the stock snowshoes)

Overall not to bad and not alot of money invested into the bike! still got a screaming good rig with out spending more then $1600


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> My upgrades to the bike are:
> 1x10 set up using RF NW 30T and 42 Oneup rear kit
> Race Face: Bars, stem, post, crankset
> Surly Nate tires / 4.7 Snowshoes (after I used up the stock snowshoes)


What didn't you like about the stock bars and stem?


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

BikesFloat said:


> What didn't you like about the stock bars and stem?


I like a wider bar, 740+ is normally what I like to ride so it was just a personal thing for me. I have one bike that has some 700's and I can notice the difference in the ride when on it. Just about every bike I have is 740-800 with one 700 and one 710.

I was riding 740 with a 90mm stem then went to a 740 with a 70mm stem and enjoy it. Have a set of 810's with a 75mm stem for another fat bike going to try out.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

*Class of 2016 shipping*

I didn't expect my 2016 Lurch FS to arrive for a couple more weeks, but it showed up today.

A preliminary bit of advice for those who will be unboxing theirs in the coming days ... After removing the saddle/seat post and the 4 spacer boxes which go around the rear wheel (one of the boxes has manuals/booklets, rim strips, misc.), lay the box drive-side down and slide the remaining contents out. The left-side crank arm is threaded through the spokes of the front wheel.

Heeheehee those tires are BIG!


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

MaximumX said:


> The "original" originals, like the Weinmanns? I'm looking into upgrading mine in the next few weeks...


Yes, I want to be able to put the new studded Snowshoe XL's on a set so I can swap them when needed this winter. I would love to spring for some Mulefuts and build them up but I have(...want to) to put about $1500 in my touring rig and in town touring rig...

I found a set of the gold Weinmanns complete with tires for $200 but not digging the gold personally.


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## clipless (Aug 2, 2006)

BikesFloat said:


> I didn't expect my 2016 Lurch FS to arrive for a couple more weeks, but it showed up today.
> 
> A preliminary bit of advice for those who will be unboxing theirs in the coming days ... After removing the saddle/seat post and the 4 spacer boxes which go around the rear wheel (one of the boxes has manuals/booklets, rim strips, misc.), lay the box drive-side down and slide the remaining contents out. The left-side crank arm is threaded through the spokes of the front wheel.
> 
> Heeheehee those tires are BIG!


I didn't think mine was going to show up until next week. It was a nice surprise to come home to.

I ran across the same problem you did when unboxing it. No damage to the wheel though. The packaging job was top notch. The empty boxes did a great job keeping everything from moving around. One of those boxes contains the extra rim strips and all the manuals, so don't throw them all away.

I was able to get everything installed last night after my daughter went to bed. It took about a 45 minutes to unpack everything and install the seat post, handlebars, front caliper and front rotor. I'm going to align the brakes, tune the derailleurs ,and do a nut and bolt check on it tonight when I get home and hopefully bed the brakes as well. I'm taking Friday off to go ride this puppy.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything. The only slight negative is that the paint is a little thin on some edges, especially where the seat and chain stays meet up with the rear drop outs. You have to be close to notice. Everywhere else the paint fabulous.

I ordered some gorilla tape and some stans. Looking forward to setting this up tubeless, but I'd like to get a few hundred miles on it first.


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## Steak (Oct 30, 2015)

Got my new Lurch Tuesday morning. Had trouble with front brake caliper rubbing on the mounting bolt. Has anyone else experienced this? I had to clean up the mounting surfaces with a file. Still have a minor pad rub. Plan on tweaking the fork a bit to completely eliminate

First ride report: Wednesday night group ride on a muddy trail at night. Had a blast! Didn't have to worry about what was on the trail, just bombed over and through everything. Locked up the brakes to avoid running over a rider that fell in front of me (on a cross bike) and slipped the rear wheel in the dropouts. Other than that no problems.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Clean the paint off of the sliders and out of the skewer itself. That fixed my issues with the wheel moving. Other folks have had to change skewers.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Clean the paint off of the sliders and out of the skewer itself. That fixed my issues with the wheel moving. Other folks have had to change skewers.


This, and lube the cam on the skewer, that way it takes less force to close it tightly.


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Steak said:


> Got my new Lurch Tuesday morning. Had trouble with front brake caliper rubbing on the mounting bolt. Has anyone else experienced this? I had to clean up the mounting surfaces with a file. Still have a minor pad rub. Plan on tweaking the fork a bit to completely eliminate.


There were a few others that had this issue, I think confined to orange bikes, for whatever reason. Seems the fork dropout was twisted, which puts the caliper mount at an odd angle when the wheel is tightened. Crescent wrench to tweak the dropout--problem solved.

Any pictures of these new bikes? Mine is on the move with UPS!


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## clipless (Aug 2, 2006)

gringoloco78 said:


> There were a few others that had this issue, I think confined to orange bikes, for whatever reason. Seems the fork dropout was twisted, which puts the caliper mount at an odd angle when the wheel is tightened. Crescent wrench to tweak the dropout--problem solved.
> 
> Any pictures of these new bikes? Mine is on the move with UPS!


A pic from my first ride yesterday. The trail was nothing but wet leaves, and this bike just ate it up.


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## clipless (Aug 2, 2006)

*2016 Lurch First Ride*

I took the day off work yesterday so I could get my first ride in. It was about 10 miles of trails with about the same distance in transit on paved paths and dirt roads. Overall, I couldn't be happier with how it went.

It turns out my floor pump gauge doesn't start working until about 20 psi, so I had no idea how much pressure I was running. At times it felt a little bouncy, but not too bad. I never had any self steer issues, so I'm pretty sure I was in the ballpark. The front end just stuck, but my feet were kicked off the pedals a couple times due to bouncing over roots and rocks. Speaking of which, I think I might throw some eggbeaters on this bike for trail riding. I bought some Wellgo MG-1's, but I might save those for the winter. They gripped really well with just some hold hiking boots on.

As far as assembly goes, I too struggled with the front caliper. I could never get the outside pad to not rub at least a little bit. I screwed around with it for over an hour before I gave up. My fork dropouts are aligned, despite this being an orange bike. After bedding the pad, it's pretty much a non-issue at this point. Although the headset seemed tight enough at home, I had to put almost a half turn in to the stem cap while riding. After that, the front end was solid.

I like to do my front braking with my right hand, so I swapped the levers from left to right. The stock grips were going to be too much of a pain to remove, so I cut them off and slapped on some lock-on grips I had lying around. I had some numbing issues with my hands, so I think a set of Ergon's or ESI extra chunkies might be in future. I've used Ergons before and they help, but don't eliminate the numbing. Anyone have experience with the ESI grips?

Besides the grips, the only other non-stock part is the Hope skewer I installed on the rear. It has noticeably better knurling than the stock one. One of the axle spacing screws was bent, so I removed them both and liberally tightened the skewer, no issues with slippage on my ride. I couldn't quite run the rear wheel all the way forward, there was some interference with the front derailleur clamp.

As long as this bike holds up, and I have no reason to suspect it won't, then this will easily be the best $1000 I've ever spent on a bike.


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## msquire311 (Oct 31, 2015)

Got my Lurch yesterday. Had ordered Hope skewer for the rear 200mm. Pretty sure I bought directly off a link from this forum. Anyways it is too short. Any idea where I went wrong? Do I need something longer or did I receive the wrong part? Thanks for any help. This forum was most helpful in my purchase. If it would only stop raining so I could take it out!


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## clipless (Aug 2, 2006)

msquire311 said:


> Got my Lurch yesterday. Had ordered Hope skewer for the rear 200mm. Pretty sure I bought directly off a link from this forum. Anyways it is too short. Any idea where I went wrong? Do I need something longer or did I receive the wrong part? Thanks for any help. This forum was most helpful in my purchase. If it would only stop raining so I could take it out!


I ordered this one from Amazon. It was the 190 mm blue one. The seller was excelcycle.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

Mine arrived on Wednesday, this is from my first ride on Friday (my 1st Fatbike ride ever).
I also filed the inside of the disk tabs on the fork and on the frame. Other than that, everything worked pretty well right out of the box (even had air in the tires). I did check the freehub body just to make sure it was steel (it was). The bike weighed in right at 38 pounds after I put pedals on it, and I certainly noticed that on climbs. Actually this thing climbs like a goat, the traction I was getting was amazing, it's just a goat with a bit of a weight problem.
For people still looking for sizing info (as I was), I'm just under 5' 10" and the 18" frame is about right. I usually prefer 19" to 19.5" frames for XC but do have a couple of 18" frames, so I was struggling deciding on the size. For the type of riding I plan on doing with this, the smaller size was the way to go for me.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

*Non drive side rear hub end cap - check and tighten.*

I posted this in the Sturgis/Night Train thread, but it applies to you Lurcher's too. The Novatec D202SB rear hubs are prone to having the non drive side end cap loosen up. This leads to slop and play where the freehub body pawls engage the ratchet ring. On all three of my fat bikes that have these hubs, Lurch, Sturgis and Night train, this end cap works loose with regularity. Blue loctite helps, but you need to add it to your regular maintenance checks to prevent wear in the hub and damage to the pawl/ratchet ring interface. Aside from this, and paired with the steel freehub body, these are still rolling smooth. Sorry, don't remember what the spanner wrench sizes are for it. Happy trails - and fresh tracks to those of you with snow on the ground.


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## Steak (Oct 30, 2015)

*Muddy Purple Lurch after first ride*


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## teamcogs (Nov 3, 2015)

Hi everyone! Thanks so much for the information in this thread - you've helped persuade me to purchasing a Lurch yesterday! This is my first fatbike, and I can't to jump into this world - and just in time for the snow and mud in California!

I've noticed a few things to keep an eye out for when the bike comes (like rear QR might need to be replaced and/or dropout sanded a bit), and was wondering if anyone had a list going of everything to be aware of. I read a few things about the hub, but not sure what exactly to look for based off what I've read so far. I'm an ok wrench, and have a stand and good amount of tools, but have never done a mail order bike like this, so the initial QC check is new to me for sure.

Thanks for the help, looking forward to posting some pics once I get to hit the trail!


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## terricksa5 (Sep 22, 2009)

Ok, i am seriously considering one of these. 

I am 5'6" and according to the size sheet i should be an XS but based on Geo and comparing that to my Niner Air9 S that I ride a S Lurch should work. Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on the sizing.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

terricksa5 said:


> I am 5'6" and according to the size sheet i should be an XS but based on Geo and comparing that to my Niner Air9 S that I ride a S Lurch should work. Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on the sizing.


I'm 5'8" with about a 30" inseam. I've been riding a 16" Lurch and while it fits, I find I'm almost borderline wanting a larger size. Standover would hold me back from actually going a size up, especially now that I'm running larger tires.


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

MaximumX said:


> I'm 5'8" with about a 30" inseam. I've been riding a 16" Lurch and while it fits, I find I'm almost borderline wanting a larger size. Standover would hold me back from actually going a size up, especially now that I'm running *ridiculously huge* tires.


^^^fixed it for you.


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

watermonkey said:


> ^^^fixed it for you.


*smiles*


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## delock (Oct 23, 2015)

Is a size 22 too tall for someone 6'6"?


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

*Bugs and Lurch at Warda*

I shook down the Lurch this weekend at Bluff Creek Ranch in Warda, Texas. The wife and I camped and had the entire ranch to ourselves. Only the upper trails, and some of the singletrack around the big pond were open. All told, there was about 6 miles of trail to work with.

Impressions: It took me a while to get the position of the brake levers and shifters just right. The SRAM shifters took a bit of getting used to, as I've always been a Shimano guy. I kept wanting to use my index fingers! The gear spacing between the two sprockets up front was really wide. I would be humping along in the big ring looking for ever lower gears, and when I finally decided to drop to the small ring I was spinning like crazy. I found it tough to make a smooth transition from big ring to small without it being an abrupt change.

I was in between sizes on the frames. I got the 17.5" (or was it 18?) and the cockpit felt a bit cramped. I pushed the seat all the way back on the rails and rotated the bar forward so the sweep became a bit of a rise. This got me properly stretched out, but tha bar configuration just felt weird. I think I need a riser bar.

My rear skewer came loose several times and the wheel slid backwards in the dropouts on the left (non-drive) side. Eventually I guess enough paint wore off the frame and it finally held, albeit after tightening it as hard as I could. I wonder why the dropouts are horizontal instead of agled vertically like all other bikes I've owned?

The last "issue" I had was that I was never able to get my seatpost to stay put. No matter how hard I tightened the QR on the post, it would slowly creap down.

I got my Stan's No Tubes setup the night before the ride. I started to make the conversion and had a lot of trouble getting the tire off the rim. Only after watching a couple of utube videos did I finally figure out how to stand on the tire to break it loose from the rim. By the time I got the tire off, I wasn't feeling confident enough about the conversion to follow through with it the night before a long trip to ride. I swapped in the red rim liner on the front, and put my tube back. You can see in my riding pic that I have one red wheel! Hang loose Stan. I'll be back to tackle you soon!

Now, it wasn't all bad with my Lurch. I've been on a fairly heavy full suspension rig for quite a while now, so even though Lurch weighed in at ~ 38 lbs, it didn't feel to portly to me. The trails were spongy sand and rock, with lots of slippery roots mixed in. The tires hooked up amazingly well. Also, I could drop down to that micro granny gear and make seated climbs that I felt like I wouldn't normally have made on my old bike. Like I said before, I had a hard time choosing between the big and small ring, but I think I'll sort that out in time.

So, I've ordered some aluminum Ritchey Riser bars to get the ergos right. I also got a non-QR seat post clamp, hoping that will solve my slipping post issue. I'm gonna put on some red grips to keep going with the red trim started by those bonus rim strips that came with the bike.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

surferbugs- clean off all the lube on the seatpost and inside the seat tube. Then try some carbon friction paste on your seatpost


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

delock said:


> Is a size 22 too tall for someone 6'6"?


Hi - that's probably a good size for you unless your torso is longer than most of your height? What is your inseam standing straight against a wall in your riding shoes with a book spine pressed upwards snugly between your legs as if seated on it?


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

joebikesdirect said:


> surferbugs- clean off all the lube on the seatpost and inside the seat tube. Then try some carbon friction paste on your seatpost


Thanks Joe. Actually, I put some assembly grease on the post and inside the seat tube at assembly. Someone taught me that a long time ago as a tip when 2 types of metal touch (i.e. aluminum and chromoly). I wiped the post down the first time it slipped, but never the seat tube.
peace ..... bugs


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## delock (Oct 23, 2015)

joebikesdirect said:


> Hi - that's probably a good size for you unless your torso is longer than most of your height? What is your inseam standing straight against a wall in your riding shoes with a book spine pressed upwards snugly between your legs as if seated on it?


29/30


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

hi - if you are 6 foot 6 inches that cycling inseam cannot be correct. I am about 5'7" and have a cycling inseam of 31.25 inches.

Most 6' tall men have 35 inches.

Be sure to have a friend help you.

Wear your riding shoes
Take a hardback book or tel directory. Straddle the book spine up.
Stand with your back and heels flat against a wall. 
Have your friend put the end of the book flat against the wall and slide upwards firmly into your crotch. 
Measure from the top of the book spine to the floor.
That's your cycling inseam. 
I am going to guess that's going to be around 38 inches.
Hope this helps


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## delock (Oct 23, 2015)

joebikesdirect said:


> hi - if you are 6 foot 6 inches that cycling inseam cannot be correct. I am about 5'7" and have a cycling inseam of 31.25 inches.
> 
> Most 6' tall men have 35 inches.
> 
> ...


37 is the number


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

delock said:


> 37 is the number


Then 22" is your Lurch number.:thumbsup:


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

I am 5' 8" with a 31'' inseam and 16" size small is good.
It fits much bigger than my 16" mountain bike with 26" wheels.
I would not want bigger.



terricksa5 said:


> Ok, i am seriously considering one of these.
> 
> I am 5'6" and according to the size sheet i should be an XS but based on Geo and comparing that to my Niner Air9 S that I ride a S Lurch should work. Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on the sizing.


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*Seat Tube water bottle cage*

Id like to put a second water bottle cage on my 16" Lurch FS - on the seat tube. Problem is that the clamp for the front derailleur is in the way. Any good solutions for this one?


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

kevinstheone said:


> Id like to put a second water bottle cage on my 16" Lurch FS - on the seat tube. Problem is that the clamp for the front derailleur is in the way. Any good solutions for this one?


Shim it out with washers. I also believe you can buy spacers that will do the same but probably cheaper and easier to head to hardware store and buy some small washers.

Here is link to spacers http://problemsolversbike.com/products/spaceouts

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I ended up trimming a cage to fit with the clamp. Works swell.


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

Guy.Ford said:


> Shim it out with washers. I also believe you can buy spacers that will do the same but probably cheaper and easier to head to hardware store and buy some small washers.
> 
> Here is link to spacers Problem Solvers
> 
> Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk


Cool! thanks, to all responders


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I also use the knurled nuts that come on presta tubes to space out the water bottle cage on my other bike.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Finally getting to put the Lurch to my inteded use...

snow ride by Brad Baker, on Flickr

fatbikepreserve by Brad Baker, on Flickr

Enjoying the deep stuff by Brad Baker, on Flickr

Big drifts by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

*FatGuy + Lurch + Bluto ??*

I have now read this entire thread. The information is invaluable (esp. frame sizing, steel vs. aluminum hubs, dealing with horizontal drop-outs, etc...) !! :thumbsup:

But I have a bit of a different issue.

I am 300+ LBS. Wanting to buy a Lurch for exercise and weight loss. My elbows/shoulders aren't what they used to be, and I'd like to ease some of the abuse they'll endure. So I'm thinking about getting a Lurch + Bluto.

But I'm concerned that the Bluto might not be sturdy enough to handle my weight. I've read some people saying that the Bluto is pretty flexy. And the max PSI charts don't go up to 300LBS.

SO I need input from some of you who've used a Bluto extensively...

*QUESTION:* Do you think it can handle my weight reliably? Even if I have to pump it up to 160-170+ PSI? I know the specs say that the Bluto can go to 200PSI, but haven't been able to find anyone discussing it under these kinds of circumstances.

FWIW... I am not going to be a speed demon on this bike. In fact, I'm sure I'll be pretty damn slow until I lose 50-60LBS... Also, I'm not going to be doing wild jumps and tricks. But the trails I'll be riding are desert washes with lots of bumps, rocks, sand, loose dirt. Stuff like this:









Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread!


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## jllive (Mar 8, 2015)

*To Bluto or not to Bluto*

I don't have extensive experience, but have ridden both rigid and Bluto on a variety of other fat bikes. I would highly recommend getting the Bluto, especially considering the minimal price difference. If you are so inclined to ride rigid initially, you can always a) lock the Bluto out b) purchase a rigid fork from ebay, craigslist or bikes direct and swap it out until you want to put the Bluto back on. It will cost you a lot more to buy a rigid Lurch and then add a Bluto later. I have found the Bluto really great for trail riding, takes the edge off and at 40 my body isn't liking the hard impacts too much. Hell.... try the Bluto for a bit and then if you find it isn't rigid enough for you presently grab a rigid fork and throw it on.


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## mwagner_mn (Nov 22, 2015)

*Axle solution for Lurch+Bluto+Rigid*

Hi!

I recently bought a Lurch FS (w/Bluto) and added a CrMo rigid fork from Motobecane to the order. My plans are to use the rigid for bike packing adventures (front rack) and use the Bluto for "fun mode" trail riding.

Upon receiving them I realized the axle mismatch problem. That is, the Bluto has a 15x150mm thru-axle and the rigid fork is for traditional 9mm dropout w/5mm skewer -- the wheel that comes with the Lurch FS is thru-axle which makes it unusable with the rigid fork without adapters.

I found two adapter solutions. The first is to contact Novatec who makes some 5mm QR side caps for your thru-axle hub. But I've found these are scarce. NovatecUSA said there was only one set in the US currently. I found a couple more sets on aliexpress.com (Alibaba service directly from China), but that's it.

The second solution, which I think may be better, is a guy I found thru eBay that makes uncommon parts for fat bikes. His name is Chris and his little business is MTBtools. I contacted him to custom make an adapter for my situation, and he said it would be very simple. Within a day he made a batch and put them on eBay: MTB Tools Fat Bike 15mm x 150mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay

Mine is on its way so I haven't tried it yet, but I'm confident it'll work pretty good.

The only problem then is to source a 150mm skewer. Best solution I can find so far is to buy a 170mm and continue the thread a bit farther with a thread cutter and then trim the excess.

So, just thought I'd share in-case anyone else was looking for a solution to this problem.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Fwiw, my buddy that rides fatbikes with me is 6'1" and is 270lbs. He use to be closer to 400. 

He just got a fatboy trail and hasn't had anything negative to say about the bluto. 

Just killed my 2nd 22t cog.  

First cheap stock samox one made it 80 miles, second truvativ made it 300. Have another trivativ. I don't generally ride the bike unless it's in snow or mud, so I'm not expecting the world.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I have that skewer, endcaps and fork rotting in a box in my garage. If anyone wants a rigid setup lemme know, i have no desire to return this bike to rigid unless i sell it.


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*Fat bikes and Fat guys*



SuperFat said:


> I have now read this entire thread. The information is invaluable (esp. frame sizing, steel vs. aluminum hubs, dealing with horizontal drop-outs, etc...) !! :thumbsup:
> 
> But I have a bit of a different issue.
> 
> ...


I'm 265lbs and the shocks were stiff enough right out of the box that I have not felt the need to spend $40 on a shock pump - only had my bike a few weeks. I'm a spinner not a crusher, so there is very little pogo'n from the shock, more from the tires. Even then I stand and crush the pedals the pogo'n from the shock is not that bad - more bounce comes from the tires. As for injuries I have a torn rotator cuff and am missing an ACL. I am happy with the shock absorption. 
If for no other reason, fat guys look good on fatbikes!


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## grayroamer (Nov 24, 2015)

*Your Motobecane Lurch Bluto Travel Setting*

Hello,
I'm new to the lounge, but I'm already "on a mission". 
Please vote on your Bluto's travel setting:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/your-motobecane-lurch-bluto-travel-setting-995924.html

Thank you,
Sebastian


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

kevinstheone said:


> I'm 265lbs and the shocks were stiff enough right out of the box that I have not felt the need to spend $40 on a shock pump - only had my bike a few weeks. I'm a spinner not a crusher, so there is very little pogo'n from the shock, more from the tires. Even then I stand and crush the pedals the pogo'n from the shock is not that bad - more bounce comes from the tires. As for injuries I have a torn rotator cuff and am missing an ACL. I am happy with the shock absorption.
> If for no other reason, fat guys look good on fatbikes!


Thanks for this, kevinstheone. Really glad you're enjoying your Bluto! I'm guessing that I'll be just fine, since I'm not going to be a real aggressive rider.

Hope so, because I pulled the trigger yesterday, and my Blue Bluto'd Lurch will be here on Friday! Woohoo.

Seriously thinking about getting my wife an XSmall Lurch. She's a little thing - 5'2" and 105lbs. Hoping the Lurch isn't going to be too much for her.


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

I've been researching fat bikes for a few months now and torn over if I would even like it. Rode a pugsley and ice cream truck recently at a LBS and fell in love. I generally don't get out riding during the winter, but have hopes this will get me out more and active, especially with the dog it can be hard to keep up where we go hiking in deep snow.

I gave myself a $1000 budget for this fat bike trial so my options were limited. I narrowed my choices down to a lightly used Pugsley setup X9 1x10 on craigslist, the lurch and possibly coughing up the extra scratch for the new Wednesday. So far I'm pleased with my choice on the lurch.

Lurch was delivered yesterday. Got it all put together last night and took it for a good 8 mile maiden voyage today. The SRAM drivetrain shifts so smooth and needed only minor tweaking out of the box. Brakes were extremely easy to setup. Thanks to this thread I took some sandpaper to the rear drop outs and lubed the cam on the skewer, cranked it down, no slip so far. I'm 5'9" 31" inseam with shoes so I was torn on the 16" or 18" frame. Ended up going 18" and feel that was the right choice. The cockpit feels just right any smaller would be cramped imo. Comparing the 18" frame geo also matched what I test drove at the LBS (pugs&ICT in "medium").

My only complaint so far would be the 4.5 snowshoes. Seems most are not fond of them for a snow tire, but I feel they performed horribly if there was any kind of side grade or climb in the 3" or so of snow. Granted it was quite slushy, as we got 8" last Saturday and its melting. I washed out a couple times and had to get a foot down. I'm thinking I'll ask Santa for a Lou to put on the back as the rear wheel seemed to struggle the most, especially on climbs. Certain areas of the trail were quite icy but I did seem to have great traction, which surprised me after the poor performance in snow.

Considered going 1X10 sooner then later but quickly changed my mind after today's ride, utilizing all gear ranges. We get quite a bit of snow here and I can see the granny being quite useful. For now gonna keep it stock and just replace/upgrade as parts break/fail.

If anybody can help point me in the right direction, I'm torn on using the Q Tubes light weight 2.4-2.7s and going with a lighter rim strip or going all out tubeless? I've never setup a bike tubeless so it'll be a learning experience for sure, gonna start researching this now but if anyone can shed some light feel free!

Overall very pleased with my purchase and good value this bike offered to get wet so to speak in the fat bike world. My black lab seems to enjoy it as well!

View attachment 1031177


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

Haste11 said:


> I've been researching fat bikes for a few months now and torn over if I would even like it. Rode a pugsley and ice cream truck recently at a LBS and fell in love. I generally don't get out riding during the winter, but have hopes this will get me out more and active, especially with the dog it can be hard to keep up where we go hiking in deep snow.
> 
> I gave myself a $1000 budget for this fat bike trial so my options were limited. I narrowed my choices down to a lightly used Pugsley setup X9 1x10 on craigslist, the lurch and possibly coughing up the extra scratch for the new Wednesday. So far I'm pleased with my choice on the lurch.
> 
> ...


Pretty bike. I really liked my Lurch, same color. I had the first generation with the weinmann rims and lesser crank. Your build is really nice out of the box. The snowshoes are OK, and I had fun in the snow on them, when the snow was dryer and the trails were packed. Once they the snow got wetter (slushy) they were a handfull. A Bud/Lou transformed this bike in the snow - really a night and day difference in the snow. Overkill and then some on dirt, but worth their weight when it comes to snow riding for me. The q tubes superlights don't fill big tires well, and are prone to pinch flatting when you really start to run low snow riding psi's (3-5 for max float). The mulefut's set up tubeless exceptionally well. Do it right from the beginning, buy their rim strips and the mulefut tape and valves. The system simply works. If you're simply going to be crawling through deep snow in granny most of the time, weight saving from tubeless aren't really that big of a deal. At higher speeds, especially in the dirt, it matters, low range grinding away - not so much. I'd start with bigger tires, keep it simple with the tubes, and if you get the bug to ride in the spring and summer, then do the tubeless thing. Have fun. I now have a sturgis bullet and night train bullet - the Lurch is better in the snow.


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

Perfect, thank you for the reply Watermonkey. That's exactly what I needed to know. I think I remember seeing your grape lurch near the beginning of this thread when I started from the beginning. Caught my eye! 

I'm gonna ride it as it, do bud and lou as we get more snow. Then tackle tubeless with the mulefut strips, tape and valves for the spring/summer.

Edit: if you don't mind me asking why did you get rid of the lurch? How ya enjoying the sturgis/night train?


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## grayroamer (Nov 24, 2015)

Yesterday I had pulled trigger on an 18in "blutoed" Lurch in yellow.
I just ran on local MTB trail and was passed by a guy on a fat bike.
Next week, it might be me... yey!


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

grayroamer said:


> Yesterday I had pulled trigger on an 18in "blutoed" Lurch in yellow.
> I just ran on local MTB trail and was passed by a guy on a fat bike.
> Next week, it might be me... yey!


Congrats grayroamer! Indeed you will be tearing up the trails sooooon.

I ordered the same bike (in blue). Scheduled to be delivered on Friday. Can't wait to get it rockin' and rollin'.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Haste11 said:


> Perfect, thank you for the reply Watermonkey. That's exactly what I needed to know. I think I remember seeing your grape lurch near the beginning of this thread when I started from the beginning. Caught my eye!
> 
> I'm gonna ride it as it, do bud and lou as we get more snow. Then tackle tubeless with the mulefut strips, tape and valves for the spring/summer.
> 
> Edit: if you don't mind me asking why did you get rid of the lurch? How ya enjoying the sturgis/night train?


I dont mind the snowshoes for snow and while they do work.... Running osmething like Nates will make it night and day! Either Nates or Bud/Lou will work out for you in the snow but save the shoes then for summer riding for sure. I have a set of nates now on my other fatty and you can feel them when your 1st getting it up to speed.

BTW I wanted that color so bad, I bought the 1st batch of bluto Lurch and they didnt offer that color. I still to this day think about buying the purple lol.

Good pick the on 18. Im 5'10 with a 32.5 inseam with no shoes on and the 18 is perfect with a 400mm post. I actually swapped out the 400 for a 375 race face and im JUST making it by a few MM to spare. My friend has a 16 and hers is wayyyy to small I was fixing something on it one day and took it for a test spin to see if the issue was still there and I felt like I was riding a little kids BMX.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Just got my lurch today I am try to put some new tires on the stock tire ARE ****ING SO TIGHT!!!! There is no way in hell to get them off maybe cut them in half I am pissed as hell about this is it the rims or the tires either way total ********


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> Just got my lurch today I am try to put some new tires on the stock tire ARE ****ING SO TIGHT!!!! There is no way in hell to get them off maybe cut them in half I am pissed as hell about this is it the rims or the tires either way total ********


Roid rage calm the heck down. Its not the tire its the rim. They are tubeless rims and that is the point of them. Step one, calm down and take a big breather. Now step two take your palm of your hand and push the tire from the side wall with all the air out of the tube into the center of the rim to break the bead. If you can break the bead then bring it to your shop and get a lesson on tire removal one o one. If you cut the tire off the rim or even thought about it you should not be building a bike-in-a-box. Not trying to be mean but the rims are made to lock the bead in so you dont blow them off the rim. Or you can send me your new wheels and I will send you mine that anyone can dismount in no time ^_^


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Its not me the I broke the bead on one tire its way to tight I broke the plastic tire removal tool trying to get them off. I have removed many tire in my time I know what I am doing


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

This way you buy a bike and shop so you dont have to deal with this kinda of crap


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Very close to call bikes direct and getting my money back


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> Its not me the I broke the bead on one tire its way to tight I broke the plastic tire removal tool trying to get them off. I have removed many tire in my time I know what I am doing


Obviously you dont THEY ARE TUBELESS Rims. This is the point of them. You wanna see tight look at my carbon fat bike wheel set. Its called technique, you busted a tire leaver so you are trying to man handle the tire off the rim. Push it to the center and work on one side at a time.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> This way you buy a bike and shop so you dont have to deal with this kinda of crap


No you buy a bike from a shop because you dont know what the fawk you are doing... Dont blame BD you are an idiot. Do you think if you bought a bike from your local shop that sold you the same wheels and tires they wouldnt do the same? Stop now before you look like more of an idiot.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

I dont need to hear from you again Ian0789 I know what I do your not helping


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Dont worry I requested a refund dont need help anymore thanks


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> I dont need to hear from you again Ian0789 I know what I do your not helping


You are retarded Good Day. BTW they are going to laugh in your face you are a noob that is all!

So really do you actually think your wheelset would be any different if it was from a shop?! Same wheels and tires there is no difference....


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

ian0789 said:


> You are retarded Good Day. BTW they are going to laugh in your face you are a noob that is all!


Thanks for nothing your useless go troll some place else I know how to take a tire off a rim done it a million times


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> Thanks for nothing your useless go troll some place else I know how to take a tire off a rim done it a million times


I told you what to do your to stupid to listen. Stop eating paint chips and crying..


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

hoobash said:


> Just got my lurch today I am try to put some new tires on the stock tire ARE ****ING SO TIGHT!!!! There is no way in hell to get them off maybe cut them in half I am pissed as hell about this is it the rims or the tires either way total ********


Are you using tire levers? This is the first time I've heard about this problem with the SnowShoes.


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## Deep Thought (Sep 3, 2012)

:lol:

Tight beads ruin lives. Happens to the best of us, Hoobash. Take a deep breath and remember that it's just a bike tire.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Deep Thought said:


> :lol:
> 
> Tight beads ruin lives. Happens to the best of us, Hoobash. Take a deep breath and remember that it's just a bike tire.


Getting pissed because I was fighting it in the garage for 45 mins with no luck went to the bike shop got some metal park tool levers spend another 30 mins got the front off I don't understand how you could run tubes with this set up changing a tube on the trail isn't happening and tubeless set ups do fail but not offended if something happens with this your waking


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Have a bike in my garage that I can't ride new bike day should be fun this is just a cluster f


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> Getting pissed because I was fighting it in the garage for 45 mins with no luck went to the bike shop got some metal park tool levers spend another 30 mins got the front off I don't understand how you could run tubes with this set up changing a tube on the trail isn't happening and tubeless set ups do fail but not offended if something happens with this your waking


Because after you ride the damn thing the tire isnt going to be as hard as it is to get on and off the 1st go around. Put a new tire on a carbon clincher and see how hard it is to get on 1st time around. After a ride and inflated its easy to get back on and off. Im not trolling you but making dumb comments and getting angry at your lack of building bikes and sayings its BD's fault is just arrogant. You got upgraded rims be freaking happy. Take the time to research what beadlock is how to break a bead on a tubeless rim and you would find you didnt need to buy new tire irons or break your old one. If fact you should have just manned up and brought them to the shop so ONE OF THEM could show you so you dont spend more time hatting your bike. But no instead you will call me a troll because things are not going your way.

BD didnt **** you over and if you got any bike from trek, salsa or surly with Mulefut rims youd be having the same problem. So keep that in mind. I have a set of carbon fat bike rims and YES they are very hard to break the bead off to the point I used gorilla tape around the spoke holes vs rim tape so I could make it easier to take a tire off. The other thing is patients, keep calm and work the tire. Tubeless fails and so does a tube so take the time to master taking your tire off so if you need to fix a flat you are not walking or tossing your bike like a baby into a tree....


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

You kept telling me I didnt know what I was doing when in fact thats not the case this is not good a tire you have to battle to get off there is no reasonable way to repair a flat with this set up that worrys me if I am riding in the middle of the winter I get a flat 5 miles from my car



ian0789 said:


> Because after you ride the damn thing the tire isnt going to be as hard as it is to get on and off the 1st go around. Put a new tire on a carbon clincher and see how hard it is to get on 1st time around. After a ride and inflated its easy to get back on and off. Im not trolling you but making dumb comments and getting angry at your lack of building bikes and sayings its BD's fault is just arrogant. You got upgraded rims be freaking happy. Take the time to research what beadlock is how to break a bead on a tubeless rim and you would find you didnt need to buy new tire irons or break your old one. If fact you should have just manned up and brought them to the shop so ONE OF THEM could show you so you dont spend more time hatting your bike. But no instead you will call me a troll because things are not going your way.
> 
> BD didnt **** you over and if you got any bike from trek, salsa or surly with Mulefut rims youd be having the same problem. So keep that in mind. I have a set of carbon fat bike rims and YES they are very hard to break the bead off to the point I used gorilla tape around the spoke holes vs rim tape so I could make it easier to take a tire off. The other thing is patients, keep calm and work the tire. Tubeless fails and so does a tube so take the time to master taking your tire off so if you need to fix a flat you are not walking or tossing your bike like a baby into a tree....


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Had known these rims where like this I wouldnt have bought them end of story I wish I told upfront these rims should only be run tubeless and hope they dont fail thats the truth


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

hoobash said:


> Had known these rims where like this I wouldnt have bought them end of story I wish I told upfront these rims should only be run tubeless and hope they dont fail thats the truth


Ok so you know what you are doing but you don't understand that the tire can be run tubeless or with a tube? Its BEAD ****ING LOCK get that into your head.... You don't know what your doing end of story because you have no concept of what a tubeless ready rim is. What do you not get about this? Why are you even trying to change the freaking tires in the 1st place. Go ride the damn bike. The tire is not tight any freaking tire you put on that rim is going to be very snug its a tubeless ready bike. For the love of god stop claiming you know what your doing. Im telling you you dont because well lets face the facts. You are pointing the finger at the rim, then the tire, then claiming BD shafted you. How about you go look in the mirror while you point that finger around.

Don't wrench on a bike when you have no clue what your doing. Yes you changed a tire on a regular rim but this is a tubeless ready rim so stop patting your self on the back and except you need to LEARN how to change one on a tubeless ready rim NOT a tubeless READY rim.

If you had any idea what you are doing you would not be fighting a tire and crying on the internet that is that. Im sorry for my harsh post but it pisses me off when people like you bash on stuff because lack of experience. Thats great if you can change a flat but welcome to the new 2015+ standards of rims now get used to dealing with change. Almost all bikes these days are coming with tubeless ready rims, while this was not so common in prior years is almost a standard on most rigs.

You know why no one posted taking your side? Because everyone else who lurks this thread was probably thinking the same thing I told you in my past posts. Look how helpful everyone is in this thread about reviewing these bikes. No one is going to come running to your side out of pure ignorance.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'd gladly trade my weinmann rims for those


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Sorry I don't meet up to your standards thanks for not helping



ian0789 said:


> Ok so you know what you are doing but you don't understand that the tire can be run tubeless or with a tube? Its BEAD ****ING LOCK get that into your head.... You don't know what your doing end of story because you have no concept of what a tubeless ready rim is. What do you not get about this? Why are you even trying to change the freaking tires in the 1st place. Go ride the damn bike. The tire is not tight any freaking tire you put on that rim is going to be very snug its a tubeless ready bike. For the love of god stop claiming you know what your doing. Im telling you you dont because well lets face the facts. You are pointing the finger at the rim, then the tire, then claiming BD shafted you. How about you go look in the mirror while you point that finger around.
> 
> Don't wrench on a bike when you have no clue what your doing. Yes you changed a tire on a regular rim but this is a tubeless ready rim so stop patting your self on the back and except you need to LEARN how to change one on a tubeless ready rim NOT a tubeless READY rim.
> 
> ...


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Btw ian I added you to my ignore list no need to read your crap anymore later to you


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

So I just want to say sorry for going off the deep end I was working on that stupid tire for 45 mins with no luck and it was driving me crazy. I was able to get the original tires off and replaced them with kenda juggernaut put them on and got them seated then I tried to get them off in order to see if I could change a flat tire if need they are worse then the vee rubber tires no chance I could get them off this is a issue I would need to be able to fix a flat I had no intention of going tubeless but I guess I have no choice so much for switching tires for winter riding if the tubeless fails its walk a bike back to the car


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

If any of you have these tires set up with tubes you should be very worried about this I would not to far from home or the car


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## Deep Thought (Sep 3, 2012)

Why would you not go tubeless on a fat bike, though? Tubes alone weigh like, 420g each! Who wants to carry nearly an extra pound of rubber around?


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

I wouldn't be concerned and I don't carry tire levers or tools when I ride. I'm very confident in my mechanical skills, 20 years of riding (DH, xc and road) and wrenching bikes, never found a tire /rim combo I couldn't remove by hand.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'm not running tubless on the weinmann rims because at 6psi the wheels basically fall off the rims and burp/unseat.

Mulefuts would be a different story and there would be no reason to not go tubeless.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

I wanted to be able to switch tires in the winter time with no hassle but it looks like that wont be the case anyway I got as a 3rd bike for beach and snow I have a mukluk and muze for trail riding


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Why do you need to switch tires in the winter, seriously?


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Some tires are better for winter some better for snow


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> Why do you need to switch tires in the winter, seriously?


DUH Utah! Maybe if you knew as much as him youd know that LOLOLOL. Im happy I made his ignore list, at least he can figure out how to block me.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

There is no chance you could remove these tires by hand no way no how its not happening



Guy.Ford said:


> I wouldn't be concerned and I don't carry tire levers or tools when I ride. I'm very confident in my mechanical skills, 20 years of riding (DH, xc and road) and wrenching bikes, never found a tire /rim combo I couldn't remove by hand.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

I was probaly going to go tubeless at some point but I wanted to run tubes for a while looks like I have no choice but to set them up tubeless now. Whats the point of the red rim strips? Are they for tubeless? They dont fit on the rims they are too small


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

hoobash said:


> There is no chance you could remove these tires by hand no way no how its not happening


I thought the same thing, at first. After wrestling with them for a while, I got the hang of it, or they stretched, or a little of both. I actually managed to install by hand; removal required pocket sized nylon levers. 


hoobash said:


> I was probaly going to go tubeless at some point but I wanted to run tubes for a while looks like I have no choice but to set them up tubeless now. Whats the point of the red rim strips? Are they for tubeless? They dont fit on the rims they are too small


I think they supplied the wrong red strips. Mine were identical to the black, factory installed strips, just in red.


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Duplicate...


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## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

hoobash said:


> There is no chance you could remove these tires by hand no way no how its not happening


And that is why you failed.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

hoobash said:


> Some tires are better for winter some better for snow


Isn't that the same thing?


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

hoobash said:


> If any of you have these tires set up with tubes you should be very worried about this I would not to far from home or the car


Hi hoobash. I just got my Lurch on Friday. Started the process to go tubeless this afternoon.

You weren't kidding! The Snowshoes are extremely difficult to get off the Mulefut rims - especially since it's my first time. Without the right tools, forget it! The job would be impossible without some good, strong, (and thin) levers. I eventually figured out the trick and the second wheel was easier than the first.

But personally, I am glad that they are such a tight fit. That means the bead is going to be rock solid.

Really excited about my Lurch! Can't believe the overall value.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

hfghf


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

hoobash said:


> hfghf


Cool. Sell me those terrible Mulefuts. I'll gladly send you my weinmann rims, and the tires literally fall off the rim when the tire/tube is deflated. Front hub has new enduro bearings with 20 miles on them, rear hub bearings got repacked as there were no issues.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

*Lurch Tires are Tough but do-able.*

So, I've had my Lurch now for about a month. I too had a really tough time getting the snowshoe tires off the Mulfut rims. Only after watching a few u-tube videos did I finally figure out to lay the wheel on its side and step down on the tire to pop the bead off the rim.

Once the bead is broken, the battle is only half over. Traditional ways of levering the tire off the rim will work. But, your average run of the mill tire levers will bend, break, and fail. Park Tool heavy duty steel tire levers solved that problem for me. Also look at getting some Uncle Dick's bead slip to aid in removing and replacing the tire on the rim. That stuff flat out works.

After riding 20 miles or so the bead breaking step was a little bit easier, but getting the tire off/on the rim was still a Herculean task. Someone earlier in this thread touted their "mechanical skills" and ability to get any tires off the rim by hand. That's bunk. You've done something different before, therefore you can do anything else in the future is so ridiculous it hardly warrants a mention here, except that it's kinda funny. Unless your fingers are steel tire levers and you ooze lube from under your fingernails, YOU WILL NOT GET THESE TIRES OFF THE RIMS BY HAND. No way, no how.

Armed with my new levers and lube, I tackled the Tubeless setup with a Stan's fat tire kit. Following the simple instructions on the package I got the tires seated with just my floor pump. I had to pump them up to around 25 psi to get the final "POP". A little bit of sealant leaked out the seam where the rim is pinned together, but that sealed up fast and held perfectly every since. The front tire held the first time and has not lost pressure yet. The back tire went from 12 to 8 psi on the first ride. Since then I've pumped it back up and a week later it's still holding.

I'm riding dirt singletrack now and seems like 8 to 10 psi is the sweet spot on the tire pressure. Traction is phenomenal, and the rolling weight loss with the tubeless setup is palpable. I've swapped out the bar for an Easton Monkey riser bar, got me a carbon fiber seatpost just because they are so cheap, put on a red hope rear skewer, some red grips, and a set of XT pedals. The red bits go nicely with the red rim strips I put in during the tubeless changeover. The bike is exactly 36 lbs now, when it was 38 out of the box with no pedals. There's no way to express how happy I am with the bike now. It fits, it works, and it's so much fun that I just put my tired old FSR up on Craigslist.

Don't let the tight tire issue get to you. With a few cheap tools you can make them work, and it won't be much different than what you're used to dealing with on any of your old bikes. Tubeless is the sh*t and I highly recommend making that change. I carry the big ol' tube, a fistfull of CO2 cartridges, and of course my sturdy new tire levers with me in a seat pouch, but realistically don't ever expect to need it.

Hooray Lurch!


----------



## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

SurferBugs said:


> So, I've had my Lurch now for about a month. I too had a really tough time getting the snowshoe tires off the Mulfut rims. Only after watching a few u-tube videos did I finally figure out to lay the wheel on its side and step down on the tire to pop the bead off the rim.
> 
> Once the bead is broken, the battle is only half over. Traditional ways of levering the tire off the rim will work. But, your average run of the mill tire levers will bend, break, and fail. Park Tool heavy duty steel tire levers solved that problem for me. Also look at getting some Uncle Dick's bead slip to aid in removing and replacing the tire on the rim. That stuff flat out works.
> 
> ...


SurferBugs... thank you for your post. It encouraged me so much. I have been STRUGGLING with these tires and rims. First I struggled to get the tires off. Finally got it, but only after much blood and cussing.

Then after taping, I struggled to get the beads set. I COULD NOT get them to seat. But you said that you got them set with just a floor pump. So I knew I was missing something. Anyway, I went back out and made some fine adjustments (worked the tire edges as far to the outside as possible) -- and then started pumping like a madman. And it WORKED! ...ahhh that clorious sound of the beads POPPING into place!

Anyway... just wanted to thank you and let you know that you made my day.

Side note... I'm going to try some of that Uncle Dick's bead slip stuff. Thanks for the heads up.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

SuperFat,
That's awesome that you finally got your tubeless to work. I was put off when I came back to this thread. I posted up when I first got the Lurch, and was sad to see all the hating going back and forth when I came back to the forum. I'm glad I helped encourage you. Post a pic when you get it all set up!
peace .. ! ..
bugs


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

*Lessons from Ian*



ian0789 said:


> Roid rage calm the heck down. Its not the tire its the rim.
> 
> They are tubeless rims and that is the point of them.
> 
> ...


*Its not the tire its the rim. *

You're wrong. It takes 2 to Tango. A rim by itself is not a problem. A tire by itself is not a problem. A rim AND tire with tight tolerances can make installation and removal difficult. Get a floppy old 30 tip wire bead tire and it will go on that rim with no problem.

*They are tubeless rims and that is the point of them. *

You're wrong again. It's not a tubeless rim. The rim is tubeless compatible. If you put a tube in it is it now a tubefull rim? Get your facts straight before you spew hate.

*If you can break the bead then bring it to your shop and get a lesson on tire removal one o one.*

If you *can* break the bead take it to the shop? What are you talking about? If the problem is breaking the bead, and you *can *do it, why take it to the shop. That makes no sense at all.

Before you go spewing hate and acting all experty, check yourself and your advice. It is not good.


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

SurferBugs said:


> SuperFat,
> That's awesome that you finally got your tubeless to work. I was put off when I came back to this thread. I posted up when I first got the Lurch, and was sad to see all the hating going back and forth when I came back to the forum. I'm glad I helped encourage you. Post a pic when you get it all set up!
> peace .. ! ..
> bugs


Will do man. Your Red on Black Lurch is looking badass.

Mine is a Large Bluto'd Lurch in Blue.

My Wife's is a Small Rigid Lurch in Orange. Her bike should arrive on Thursday -- and now that I (mostly) know what I'm doing, setting her up tubeless should be easier. Just wish I could find some nice orange rim strips for her.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

ian0789 said:


> No you buy a bike from a shop because you dont know what the fawk you are doing... Dont blame BD you are an idiot. Do you think if you bought a bike from your local shop that sold you the same wheels and tires they wouldnt do the same? Stop now before you look like more of an idiot.


*you buy a bike from a shop because you dont know what the fawk you are doing*

Wrong again. Buying a bike from a shop makes sense for many people. Doing something that makes sense does not make someone an idiot. I have a good buddy who wrenched for a bikeshop to put himself through college. He knows how to do any and everything to his bikes. Now he owns his own company and buys all his bike gear and service from Mellow Johnny's in Austin. He can afford any bike gear and all the professional assembly, tuning, upgrading he wants. He buys from the Local Bike Shop because HE'S RICH and can do whatever he wants. If he wants new tires he drops the bike off at the shop, tells them what he wants, and then pays and rides. He chooses the LBS for convenience, and assurance that the work is done right. I assure you he's no idiot. Stop getting so caught up in calling people names and trying to be right, because you're wrong about just about everything you spew here.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

Colored rim strips are cheap. You can find anything you want on the ol' inter web. The only hiccup I had with my tubeless setup was that the extra red rim strips that came with my bike were pretty wide sitting there inside the rim. I took an exacto knife and trimmed them all the way around before applying the orange tubeless tape. That way the tape had more rim surface to stick to and seal the tire. I'm like you in that now I'm trying to convince my wife that she "needs" a fatbike too! I kinda like the top tube shape on the Boris better for her. The BD charts on the standover height for the Boris look like a better fit for her at 5' 3". It would be nice though to be a 2 Lurch family!


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

SurferBugs said:


> Colored rim strips are cheap. You can find anything you want on the ol' inter web. The only hiccup I had with my tubeless setup was that the extra red rim strips that came with my bike were pretty wide sitting there inside the rim. I took an exacto knife and trimmed them all the way around before applying the orange tubeless tape. That way the tape had more rim surface to stick to and seal the tire. I'm like you in that now I'm trying to convince my wife that she "needs" a fatbike too! I kinda like the top tube shape on the Boris better for her. The BS charts on the standover height for the Boris look like a better fit for her at 5' 3". It would be nice though to be a 2 Lurch family!


Yep. You're thinking EXACTLY the same thing we were with regard to the Boris. I like the looks of the Boris as a "girls" bike quite a lot.

But after looking at how sharply the top tube of the XSmall Lurch slopes down, we decided that the Lurch was a better value overall -- especially since the tubeless rims were a _"Must-Have"_ item for us.

My Wife is also 5' 3". And judging by the pics in this post and this post it looks like a rigid (non-Bluto'd) XSmall should fit her well. Will let you know when it gets here.


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

Bikes Direct has agreed to take my bike back as a return I am just so feed up with deal with it I dont even want to look at it anymore. :madman:


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

SurferBugs said:


> *Its not the tire its the rim. *
> 
> You're wrong. It takes 2 to Tango. A rim by itself is not a problem. A tire by itself is not a problem. A rim AND tire with tight tolerances can make installation and removal difficult. Get a floppy old 30 tip wire bead tire and it will go on that rim with no problem.
> 
> ...


Hmmm if you CANT break the bead. Sorry for the type but you seem to be over looking my post a little to much and YES its a tubeless rim so you can run a tube it in but its meant to be safely run tubless with no tube pushing the bead into the bead hook at low PSI so yeah thats the point of a bead lock.

Get any tire and put it on that rim its bead lock so any tire is going to be a pain to get on and off the 1st time. I have done tons of tubeless, ghetto tubeless and split tube conversions. I think I have more then enough facts to go spewing my hate on the intronetz Congrats on your 1st tubeless setup but even a monkey can do these wheels. Heck you could have saved your self the money of the stans kit and used 2 old presta valves and some tape.

So next?



hoobash said:


> Bikes Direct has agreed to take my bike back as a return I am just so feed up with deal with it I dont even want to look at it anymore. :madman:


And that's my point Super. THIS GUY buys a bike from a bike shop because he doesn't know what he is doing. And he still doesn't. I never pick or troll on people but this dude is crying over nothing, nothing at all. He doesn't know what he is doing and wont take anyone's advice. Thats great your friend is rich and has money to spend on anything he wants, well some of us dont and rather learn to do our own wrenching and feel accomplished for building a bike. Hoobash is just crying vs trying to learn how to do it. I shouldnt even need to justify why I called him out just read his posts.....

Returning a bike because it actually is working as intended... Wow thats a logical reason.... I hope its a medium so I can scoop it up as a return =P


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

OK. Forgive me if this has been covered, but...

I'm 6'1" with a 34+ inseam. 19" bikes fit me perfectly. The Lurch is available in 18" and 20". 

Which will fit me better? I need to add that I have a serious dislike of frames that are even a tiny bit too big.


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

*Brake rotor, tire bead, and other things*

Well I purchased two Lurches about 10 days ago, an orange 14" for my 5'3" daughter and a purple 18" for my 5'10" son. I was a little worried that I'd have the front brake rub problem, and anecdotal evidence seemed to indicate that was a problem on the orange bikes. To my surprise, the orange bike went together without a hitch but the purple bike has the rotor rub problem. I checked the dropout alignment with the Park alignment tool and it was spot-on. So I removed the brake (but not the mounting bracket) and the problem is obvious, as can be seen in the attached photo. The brazed-on fork brake mount is obviously crooked. Now I could start filing or bending and what-not, but instead I opted to send an e-mail to BikesDirect service to ask them what they'd do for me. I'll update when I receive a reply.








As for the tires -- you can't remove these by hand. To the person who brags that he can remove any tire by hand, why don't you save your comments for stuff you actually have first-hand experience with? I, too, have not used a tire lever since about 40 years ago, and since that time have never met a tire that could thwart me -- until now. I stood on this sucker and it just laughed at me. And I weigh 200 lbs. The funny thing is, you don't even realize what an ass you are making of yourself, because every single person who's actually bought one of these bikes knows you are full-of-sh*t and you're the only one who isn't in on the joke!  And you can spew at me for posting this, but that just gives all us Lurch owners more to laugh at.


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Is the lower mounting bolt area of the bracket thicker than the upper, or is that an optical illusion due to the angle of the pic? Fwiw, I experienced the misalignment on my orange fork--tweaked it with a crescent wrench and good to go.


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

I think that is an optical illusion. I could start tweaking but not until I get the go-ahead from BD in case it snaps off.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

VelvetHog said:


> OK. Forgive me if this has been covered, but...
> 
> I'm 6'1" with a 34+ inseam. 19" bikes fit me perfectly. The Lurch is available in 18" and 20".
> 
> Which will fit me better? I need to add that I have a serious dislike of frames that are even a tiny bit too big.


Hey VH,
I'm 5' 10" and I got the 18". It was a tad small for me, and I made it work by getting a riser bar and running the seat back as far as I could. So, I definitely think the 20" is a better choice for someone 6'1". I'm guessing it will fit you like the 18" did me, a touch small but workable. 
bugs


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

VelvetHog said:


> OK. Forgive me if this has been covered, but...
> 
> I'm 6'1" with a 34+ inseam. 19" bikes fit me perfectly. The Lurch is available in 18" and 20".
> 
> Which will fit me better? I need to add that I have a serious dislike of frames that are even a tiny bit too big.


Definitely get the 20. Im the same height and inseam and I have quite a bit of seatpost showing on my 20". If I were to do it again, I would go for the 22". Toptube length is short on these bikes.


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Sven and Bugs, thank you very much!

NOW... Since the size is sorted, Black or Purple...


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

empire_builder said:


> Well I purchased two Lurches about 10 days ago, an orange 14" for my 5'3" daughter and a purple 18" for my 5'10" son. I was a little worried that I'd have the front brake rub problem, and anecdotal evidence seemed to indicate that was a problem on the orange bikes. To my surprise, the orange bike went together without a hitch but the purple bike has the rotor rub problem. I checked the dropout alignment with the Park alignment tool and it was spot-on. So I removed the brake (but not the mounting bracket) and the problem is obvious, as can be seen in the attached photo. The brazed-on fork brake mount is obviously crooked. Now I could start filing or bending and what-not, but instead I opted to send an e-mail to BikesDirect service to ask them what they'd do for me. I'll update when I receive a reply.
> View attachment 1033340
> 
> 
> As for the tires -- you can't remove these by hand. To the person who brags that he can remove any tire by hand, why don't you save your comments for stuff you actually have first-hand experience with? I, too, have not used a tire lever since about 40 years ago, and since that time have never met a tire that could thwart me -- until now. I stood on this sucker and it just laughed at me. And I weigh 200 lbs. The funny thing is, you don't even realize what an ass you are making of yourself, because every single person who's actually bought one of these bikes knows you are full-of-sh*t and you're the only one who isn't in on the joke!  And you can spew at me for posting this, but that just gives all us Lurch owners more to laugh at.


Well, I already got a reply from Larry at BD. He encouraged me to try bending the mounting tab, and that if things go horribly wrong, he will make it right.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

empire_builder said:


> Well, I already got a reply from Larry at BD. He encouraged me to try bending the mounting tab, and that if things go horribly wrong, he will make it right.


It is steel, you should be ok.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Yeah you just need to bend the tabs, happened on my friends brand new lurch. Few easy ways to go about it just need to make some kind of makeshift lever to move it a hair. 

O and btw then explain how I get my tires on and off my carbon tubeless fat bike rims and carbon clincher road bike wheels as for I'm full of ****. Seriously you shouldn't be breaking a freaking tire lever off trying to get a tire off a rim unless you are doing it wrong.... Maybe I use my magical full of **** powers to change tires in a pinch 0.o Or I know how to remove tires on tubeless wheelsets with out breaking tools or rims. I can tell you for a fact the carbon rims have a much higher bead hook then those mulefut rims

And btw I had my lurch way before you did so if anything I think you guys are giving me something to laugh at. You got upgraded rims and are crying about the fact you can actually run them tubeless if you wanted to. Id gladly give you my set of DL 80's for your mulefut wheels so you dont have to stand on them to dismount a tire. You can just look at them with low PSI and they will fall off.


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## sportscarfan (Jun 14, 2015)

Are there any shorter riders on a Lurch FS? I am 5'4" with a 28" inseam, and am interested in a Lurch...want to make sure a 14" with Bluto will not be too tall... 

Thanks!


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## hoobash (Oct 2, 2007)

I had but a kenda juggernut sport on the front rim of mine I couldnt get one of the beads off before I sent it back. I had know if it was me so I took it to my LBS and the owner tried for 15 mins and said he would have to damage the rim for the tire to come off. I ended up sending the rim back with tire looks like I am down $63 on a tire


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

VelvetHog said:


> Sven and Bugs, thank you very much!
> 
> NOW... Since the size is sorted, Black or Purple...


Purple, purple, purple, PURPLE, PURPLE, PURPLE!!!! Did I say purple?

I would've got my GEN01 Lurch in purple but they only had yellow left when I finally ordered. Of course, that might it easier to hide a yellow Sturgis in the garage 6 months later... ;-)

Oh yeah... Also, PURPLE!


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Seriously though, X. What do you think about the Lurch in purple? haha


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

OK, X. Just for you I ordered a 20" Purple people eater about 3 minutes ago!

Where do these ship out of?


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*Bashed front derailleur*

I've had my Lurch FS for about a month now. The gears came set up perfectly out of the box - no adjustments to be made - so I did not worry about it until today....While riding down the road - no bumps - my chain got caught in the outside derailleur chain guide. It sliced off the right side of a chain link and bent the chain and front derailleur. Either the derailleur was not torqued down properly or the chain was defective. Perhaps a lesson to new bike owners to check the torque on all bolts!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I've never broken a chain before owning this bike. With this bike I've broken 2 and they were both from shifting the front chainring while on power. 

The chain gets caught just right between the big cog, derailleur and small cog then gets sheared.


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

VelvetHog said:


> OK, X. Just for you I ordered a 20" Purple people eater about 3 minutes ago!
> 
> Where do these ship out of?


BD is in TX


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Performed a (mostly) complete disassembly when I received my 22" XL orange, just for fun, and to grease/lube/adjust everything to my liking. Grabbed some weights while it was apart and thought I'd share with the group. All measurements are grams on a proven accurate scale, but as always, YMMV...

Handlebar - 260
Grips - 84
Seat - 285
Seat Post - 340 (w/ hardware)
Seat Clamp - 49
Crankset - 843 (w/ chainrings)
Bottom Bracket - 102 (w/ spacer)
Chain - 245
Cassette - 385
Frame - 3508 (w/ headset cups)
Fork - 1675
Headset - 112 (minus cups)
Stem - 146
F Brake - 371 (caliper/cable/lever)
R Brake - 388
F Derailleur - 392 (der/cable/lever)
R Derailleur - 407
Rotors - 131/161 (w/ screws)
Skewers - 72/90
Red Rim Strips - 302 (pair)
F Wheel Assy - 1279 (no tires/tubes/skewers)
R Wheel Assy - 1604
Tire - 1347 (each)
Tube - 566 (each)

There are definitely some cheap/easy places to lose some weight, if desired...


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## MaximumX (Sep 6, 2014)

VelvetHog said:


> OK, X. Just for you I ordered a 20" Purple people eater about 3 minutes ago!
> 
> Where do these ship out of?


If mine were purple it would be named the Purple Nurple, but thats just me... PPE works too! ;-)


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

Thanks gringoloco78 for the weights. I usually will do that (though not quite to the level you did) but haven't had the time or urgency to do it with mine yet. I have to say i'm disappointed with the frame/fork weight. A steel frame is going to be a little heavy,but it doesn't have to be that heavy. That's what I would expect from bottom-of-the-line or dept store frame. 
Those tubes gotta go.



gringoloco78 said:


> Performed a (mostly) complete disassembly when I received my 22" XL orange, just for fun, and to grease/lube/adjust everything to my liking. Grabbed some weights while it was apart and thought I'd share with the group. All measurements are grams on a proven accurate scale, but as always, YMMV...
> 
> Handlebar - 260
> Grips - 84
> ...


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

That's 33.3 pounds in total. Seems pretty light. No?


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

I hear people pronouncing this brand of bike as Moto be CANE. In the past (WAY back) it was always pronounced as Moto be CON.

Class?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I must have got hosed getting a 1st gen. I weighed mine this morning with a bud front and a GC rear and it came out to 45 lbs. It has a bluto, but it was only 5 grams heavier than my steel fork. I also have a lot lighter cockpit and seat.

Definitely itching for some new hoops and crankset.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

VelvetHog said:


> That's 33.3 pounds in total. Seems pretty light. No?


You need to double up the weights for things that have more than one (tires, tubes, rim strips).


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

He he. Duh. Forgive me I was dropped on my head (repeatedly) as a small child.

How about 37.53 pounds?


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

I get 38.5 on the bathroom scale with Odyssey twisted PC pedals and Odi lock-on grips.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

6lbs would be sweet to lose. Might just get a new frame when i win the lottery


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Utahbikemike said:


> 6lbs would be sweet to lose. Might just get a new frame when i win the lottery


Agreed. FM190 or N019 are looking pretty good, and only around $600. The Lurch is nice as-is though. Could drop the same pounds in the cockpit and tubeless, maybe 1x10.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> I must have got hosed getting a 1st gen. I weighed mine this morning with a bud front and a GC rear and it came out to 45 lbs. It has a bluto, but it was only 5 grams heavier than my steel fork. I also have a lot lighter cockpit and seat.
> 
> Definitely itching for some new hoops and crankset.


Damn dude I think mine was like 34 or 35lb and its 1st gen with a bluto. I dropped the crankset after having tons of issues with it for some race face. I swapped out alot of the stop parts but still have the wheelset and drive trans other then converting it to a 1x10



gringoloco78 said:


> Agreed. FM190 or N019 are looking pretty good, and only around $600. The Lurch is nice as-is though. Could drop the same pounds in the cockpit and tubeless, maybe 1x10.


My FM190 is 27/28lb depending on tires mounted and that thing rips! I actually came back to my other fat bikes and felt like a fat kid huffing and puffing 1st few rides. Worth it and fun for sure!


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## tbonegreen (Sep 17, 2009)

I just sold my Boris and am looking at upgrading to either a Lurch or Sturgis. Does anybody have any pics of the latest Lurch with the Mulefut wheels and other upgraded parts form the latest order?

I'm not too concerned about weight of the bike - any reasons why you guys went Lurch over Sturgis?

Thanks!


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

There's pics a few pages back of some of the new ones; can't seem to get mine to load. I wanted an orange Sturgis, but they only had green, so I ended up with a Lurch...


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Orange 22", Odi/Vans lock-ons, Odyssey twisted PCs, BD red rim strips:


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

tbonegreen said:


> I just sold my Boris and am looking at upgrading to either a Lurch or Sturgis. Does anybody have any pics of the latest Lurch with the Mulefut wheels and other upgraded parts form the latest order?
> 
> I'm not too concerned about weight of the bike - any reasons why you guys went Lurch over Sturgis?
> 
> Thanks!


I just wanted steel frame and sliding dropouts as well. If I did it again I would have gone with the Lurch. The Aluminum frames are probably a hair lighter but something about a steel frame and the tubes just fancy my bike buy.


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

tbonegreen said:


> I just sold my Boris and am looking at upgrading to either a Lurch or Sturgis. Does anybody have any pics of the latest Lurch with the Mulefut wheels and other upgraded parts form the latest order?
> 
> I'm not too concerned about weight of the bike - any reasons why you guys went Lurch over Sturgis?
> 
> Thanks!


When I compared the bikes my main reason for choosing the lurch were-
-Steel chromo frame
-preferred lurch geo
-Mech BB7
-drivetrain/shifters
-slightly lower price

That being said the sturgis looks like a great bike and I would of been happy with it as well. After reading the specs again also looks like it comes TA out of the box? Which would of relieved some of my concern people were having with the QR(rear) on the lurch. I took the precautions of lubing the cam, sanding/roughing up the drop outs. Reversed the horizontal drop out screws with added spacers from the hardware store. No problem yet.


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Exactly what ian said.


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Holy crap my Lurch left BD this afternoon and will be on my porch Wednesday afternoon. This will be my first brand new bike since 2003. Bring it!


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

I ordered a 14" for my 5'4" daughter, I am going to surprise her with the bike this weekend and I can update you then. The main reason I went with Lurch for her is that it was the smallest 26" wheel fatbike that I could find, and after measuring the standover on her existing bike that fits her, it seemed like it would work where others would not. BTW it is a really sweet looking bike:








It went together without a hitch, except that the rear derailleur needed a minor bit of adjustment. I think the color is gorgeous. Also I got her these beartrap pedals. They're cheap, they come in an assortment of colors and I think they are perfect for winter riding. Unfortunately orange is out of stock, so i went with green for contrast.

Oh, and I also cut a few inches off the seatpost because it was way too long for this frame, and I rearranged the headset spacers to lower the bars. BD sets up every size bike exactly the same, which is kind of silly, but I guess they have to do it for economics of scale. They also use the same length crank on the 14" as the 18" -- 175mm -- which is too long for a person of this stature. That's a greater sin IMHO.:nono: Also that is not the stock saddle - I'm sure she would have complained about the narrowness of the one that comes with the bike.


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

*And the purple lurch turns out great*

Completed assembly of the purple lurch that I bought for my son:







I had to tweak the front brake mount to get it aligned properly, but now it's perfect. The gears were perfect out of the box.

I went with some gold-colored beartrap pedals that you can get for cheap on amazon. I think it looks pretty snazzy!


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

Thanks for the weight breakdown, gringoloco. The tires are better than I expected but those tubes are a real eye-opener! And the frame is much heavier than I expected, unfortunately.:eekster: Iwonder what the aluminum BD frame weights? One of the main reasons I went with the Lurch instead of the Boris was to get the better (and I'm sure lighter) wheels, my reasoning being that most of the extra weight on a fatbike is in the wheels. I'm kind of bummed by that frame weight number.


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Two sweet looking bikes!

My purple one will be here tomorrow. Can't wait!


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

First off-road ride today!!!

Lasted about 35 mins. Was going awesome until I shredded my chain!

Going up a steep hill - shifting rear derailleur down to a lower gear - 'POP!', 'grind', 'POP!', 'grind' 'POP!'... :eekster:

Caught myself and recovered so as not to tumble down the hill. Turns out I popped the links apart in 3 separate places. :madman:

Spent about an hour and a half straightening out links and piecing it back together. It's better, and it works but I would NOT trust it to hold up under any kind of rigorous use.

Hoping some of you fine gentlemen can recommend a *heavy duty* chain that will work with my disabled Lurch. Don't care about weight. I'm 300+ LBS and I need something that can handle lots of torque.


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

empire_builder said:


> I ordered a 14" for my 5'4" daughter, I am going to surprise her with the bike this weekend and I can update you then. The main reason I went with Lurch for her is that it was the smallest 26" wheel fatbike that I could find, and after measuring the standover on her existing bike that fits her, it seemed like it would work where others would not. BTW it is a really sweet looking bike:
> View attachment 1034368
> 
> 
> ...


 HA! Bought the same exact bike for my wife! She's 5'3" and it fits her beautifully. She's totally loving it.

Got her the SAME EXACT pedals (in orange). :thumbsup:

I j ust need to find her a more comfortable seat and get her shifted over to tubeless.

Nice choice, empire_builder. You have a lucky daughter!


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Dude, you need a motorcycle chain. 

Following you super-clydesdales on flat terrain is torture. Mega power!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

If you want to sell off some of those 175mm raceface cranks i could use a set


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

Ok, so I'm researching chains and I'm rather befuddled. What should I order?

Based on what I've read, 8-speed chains are built a bit sturdier than 10-speed chains. So will a 8-speed chain work on a brand new Lurch? Or am I stuck buying a weaker 10-speed chain?

Thanks.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

SuperFat said:


> Ok, so I'm researching chains and I'm rather befuddled. What should I order?
> 
> Based on what I've read, 8-speed chains are built a bit sturdier than 10-speed chains. So will a 8-speed chain work on a brand new Lurch? Or am I stuck buying a weaker 10-speed chain?
> 
> Thanks.


Do NOT use anything other then a 10 speed chain. Be mindful of your shifts, honestly Im sure I will get flamed for this but if you break a KMC chain you did something wrong. If you shifted under a heavy load and it jumped gear or got caught on the shift and jammed that was your doing not your weight. I know tons of guys who are in your range and dont snap brand new chains. Just be careful and mindful. If you use a lower then 10 speed chain it will not shift right and kill your cassette. But mainly wont shift properly.


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Pro sprinters (road) and track riders put out more power than anyone on Earth and their chains can take it. Be careful shifting and I doubt you will have any further problems. Drive systems on bikes are designed to shift under load, but they require a bit of learned finesse.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

SuperFat said:


> Ok, so I'm researching chains and I'm rather befuddled. What should I order?
> 
> Based on what I've read, 8-speed chains are built a bit sturdier than 10-speed chains. So will a 8-speed chain work on a brand new Lurch? Or am I stuck buying a weaker 10-speed chain?
> 
> Thanks.


SFat,
My Lurch came with the KMCX10 SL. As far as I can tell the "SL" means something like "Short Lived" or "Silly Light". Get yourself the KMCX10-93. This is the heaviest and likely most durable chain that KMC makes for a 10 speed setup. This is a solid chain that is durable and long lasting. It runs from $20 to $30 depending on where you buy it. It also has the missing link master link setup which makes installation and removal easy (once you know how they work!) The chain is not an area to look for weight savings. Strength is what matters, and I recommend this one.
bugs


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## SuperFat (Nov 15, 2015)

Thanks guys. I appreciate your advice. I ordered the SRAM PC-1051 chain late last night before your replies came in. The KMC chain left a bad taste in my mouth, though (admittedly) my problem was most likely user error.

I agree with what SurferBugs said... the "SL" isn't an ideal pairing with Fat Bikes. It is too flimsy, IMO. And I read 1 or 2 reviews online that stated the same opinion.

The links that shredded on my bike were bent badly - and not the way you might think.









They were bent outward across the back of the link plate and taco'd in the front. The bends coincided with the weak points of the links - where the cutouts are. This, of course, popped the outer plates off the front pins on each link.

It also destroyed the KMC master link. The little metal ridges on the pins were sheered off.









Anyway, I'll try the SRAM chain. If I don't like it (or if I blow it out too), I'll try the heavier KMC as you suggested, SurferBugs.

Thank again, guys.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

+1 for the kmc 93 chains. They're the best/strongest I've found.


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## bendyBus (Dec 10, 2015)

Anyone else have any problems with the chain tensioner bolts on the Lurch? I took mine out for the first time a couple of weeks ago and mine got bent all to hell, which is sad considering I was just riding it on snowy pavement. I know I can just replace the bent one, but I'd like to prevent it from happening again if I could. Any suggestions?


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Which chain tensioner bolts are you referring to? The chain tension is handled by the derailleur


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

VelvetHog said:


> Pro sprinters (road) and track riders put out more power than anyone on Earth and their chains can take it. Be careful shifting and I doubt you will have any further problems. Drive systems on bikes are designed to shift under load, but they require a bit of learned finesse.


VHog's reply is on point. Track riders shift (NEVER). Pro road sprinters like M. Cavendish or M Kittel have their sprint gear dialed in like 3 months before they start sprinting. They definitely don't shift during the sprint. When mountain biking a little pre-planning-your-shift will do wonders for the longevity of your drive train. My experience with my Lurch is that the range overlap between the lowest gear on the big chain ring and dropping it down to the granny gear is extreme. You have to figure out in advance where you want to be gear wise and make gear changes way in advance. I've never had a bike with this harsh of a transition between the big and little ring; probably just a symptom of the compromise that is the 2 by setup. Get a bomber chain, try to anticipate your shifts as best you can, sit your f $ t a$s down (Ricky Bobby "with all due respect") and put the power down in the G gear SuperFat and climb everything. You Got This!

Bikes don't surf


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

bendyBus said:


> Anyone else have any problems with the chain tensioner bolts on the Lurch? I took mine out for the first time a couple of weeks ago and mine got bent all to hell, which is sad considering I was just riding it on snowy pavement. I know I can just replace the bent one, but I'd like to prevent it from happening again if I could. Any suggestions?


Flip them around so the bolts' Allen heads are in the slotted dropout. Slam the axle forward, tighten QR, adjust brake caliper accordingly. If you're buying new, 4mm x 10 is a good length.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to SurferBugs again.
(great info - thanks)


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## bendyBus (Dec 10, 2015)

Utahbikemike said:


> Which chain tensioner bolts are you referring to? The chain tension is handled by the derailleur


This is what I'm dealing with. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology, I'm kind of a noob when it comes to bikes. I'm going to contact Motobecane as well, but I just thought I'd see if anyone here had a way to prevent this from happening again.


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## bendyBus (Dec 10, 2015)

gringoloco78 said:


> Flip them around so the bolts' Allen heads are in the slotted dropout. Slam the axle forward, tighten QR, adjust brake caliper accordingly. If you're buying new, 4mm x 10 is a good length.


Just so I'm clear on what you're saying. I attached a pic above. And you're saying to screw in the bolts from the opposite direction? So, from right to left according to the image?


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

bendyBus said:


> Just so I'm clear on what you're saying. I attached a pic above. And you're saying to screw in the bolts from the opposite direction? So, from right to left according to the image?


Exactly. This is a common issue with these bikes. The screw is a 4mm (or M4); use a shorter allen screw replacement (10mm length) from your local hardware store and insert it backwards. The original screws will work, too, just not as pretty, as the threads will be sticking out.

Doing this will eliminate the possibility of the screw bending, and greatly reduce the chances of your quick release skewer slipping, which causes wheel misalignment.


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## bendyBus (Dec 10, 2015)

gringoloco78 said:


> Exactly. This is a common issue with these bikes. The screw is a 4mm (or M4); use a shorter allen screw replacement (10mm length) from your local hardware store and insert it backwards. The original screws will work, too, just not as pretty, as the threads will be sticking out.
> 
> Doing this will eliminate the possibility of the screw bending, and greatly reduce the chances of your quick release skewer slipping, which causes wheel misalignment.


Excellent. Thanks for the help!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Oh yeah.. those.

I flipped mine around but my middle knobs rubed the front derailleur cable so i put some washers underneath the head to space the wheel back a bit.


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

bendyBus said:


> This is what I'm dealing with. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology, I'm kind of a noob when it comes to bikes. I'm going to contact Motobecane as well, but I just thought I'd see if anyone here had a way to prevent this from happening again.
> 
> View attachment 1034914


Bendybus, I went to the hardware store picked up (2) M4x20 Allen head bolts hardened, also (2) #8 3/8" spacers(didn't have metric spacers) also a small pack of nylon washers #8 as well. Installed reverse and this will keep the original spacing as the stock bolt. So far this has served me well and no issues so far. I will post a picture when I'm home if you need


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## VelvetHog (Jul 17, 2010)

Just did my first ride on the Lurch. Right around 18miles. 10 inches of fresh everywhere, but the plowed dirt road I was on. Great traction. Zero issues. Great scenery. I'm very happy with this frame. Very stiff and responds well even with the big tires. My only other fat bike ride was last week on a rented 2016 Kona WO. I rode for a full two hours. The Lurch felt a bit heavier, but the Kona was an absolute noodle in the rear triangle area. The Lurch was quite stiff and tracked much better. Also this is my first ride on a bike with a SRAM drivetrain. I have only had Shimano in the past. I am very impressed with the SRAM. We will see how well it shifts after it has some grime and miles on it. 

Anyway after a piddly 18 miles I am very happy with this bike.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

Haste11 said:


> Bendybus, I went to the hardware store picked up (2) M4x20 Allen head bolts hardened, also (2) #8 3/8" spacers(didn't have metric spacers) also a small pack of nylon washers #8 as well. Installed reverse and this will keep the original spacing as the stock bolt. So far this has served me well and no issues so far. I will post a picture when I'm home if you need


BendyBu

Same scenario for me and similar solution as Haste. I didn't even know my bolt was bent, but after seeing these posts decided to check it out. Sure enough, my drive side bolt was bent just like the photo. The bend was not quite as extreme, but bent none the less. I was able to straighten it with a flat blade screwdriver, but when I tried to back it out by hand the threads were smashed where I'd levered on it. So I threaded the bolt almost all the way back in, and then hacksawed the head off. I had to disassemble the blade from my saw, then reassemble after passing it through the rear triangle. The bolt head was fairly easy to cut off. With the head off I carefully threaded the bolt out in the direction of the horizontal dropout. It came out easily.​At the local Ace Hardware I got 2 hardened M4 bolts, but went with 12 mm length. This was just long enough that they barely protruded when I inserted them backwards and screwed 'em in. Oh, I used a small aluminum spacer to get the position right. I don't know the exact spacer size, just eyeballed it. I got lucky and the reassembly went perfectly. The rear axle was properly aligned, and I didn't have to adjust the brake, although I was prepared to.

Pictures below show the new bolts and spacer, and what they looked like on final install. I haven't ridden it yet, but don't expect any problems. If I have issues, I'll update this post. Otherwise no news is good news.

I hope BD sees all the posts on this issue. It clearly must be considered a defect. My replacement parts were almost exactly $2 at the local ACE Hardware. If you get a new Lurch, you should strongly consider making this upgrade before you even step on a pedal. To perfect the upgrade, scrape the paint off the contact patch on the sliding rear dropouts, and get a fancier rear skewer like the Hope skewer in my photo. Good luck!

















​


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Anyone have a bare frame weight for the lurch? Forgot to qeigh mine when i had it disassembled and the search function is lacking.

3508 for an XL frame with headset cups.. juet had to go back a couple pages


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

Bendybus were you able to get your bent drop out bolt removed? Here is what my setup looks like, very similar to surferbugs. I swapped it to this while putting the bike together, didn't wanna deal with em bending. Not sure if the nylon washers are really necessary but seems to be doing great so far, 200miles, 200lbs and I lock up the bb7s often..









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wisconsinite762 (May 24, 2014)

...


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

SuperFat said:


> Thanks guys. I appreciate your advice. I ordered the SRAM PC-1051 chain late last night before your replies came in. The KMC chain left a bad taste in my mouth, though (admittedly) my problem was most likely user error.
> 
> I agree with what SurferBugs said... the "SL" isn't an ideal pairing with Fat Bikes. It is too flimsy, IMO. And I read 1 or 2 reviews online that stated the same opinion.
> 
> ...


Superfat,

Don't let these skinny guys tell you it's all about your technique. I'm 280 out of the shower, and I broke that chain on my first ride. Then I broke it again two more times. Hollow pins and skeletonized side plates have no place on a super-clyde drivetrain. Each time I pressed out the bent parts and put it back together with a KMC missing link. It never broke in the same place twice, and it broke under power, not while shifting. I finally replaced it when it was too short to get into big/big anymore. I like Shimano XT chains. They shift well and seem to hold up for me. I've been running them on my trail bike for 3 or 4 years, and they hold up far better for me than the cheaper SRAM 8-speed stuff I had on my previous bike.

I have an XT chain on my lurch now, but I've only ridden it once due to crappy weather.

I also swapped out the 36T big ring for a 32T. I strongly suggest the 32t. I run a 36t on my 26er trail bike, but 36t is too much gear for these fatties. 32 is the way to go- it reduces the need for granny ring shifts and still gives plenty of range on top. It also tightens up the shift in and out of granny ring when you do need to shift the front.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

*Ring Swap 36t to 32t*



EZSnow said:


> I also swapped out the 36T big ring for a 32T. I strongly suggest the 32t. I run a 36t on my 26er trail bike, but 36t is too much gear for these fatties. 32 is the way to go- it reduces the need for granny ring shifts and still gives plenty of range on top. It also tightens up the shift in and out of granny ring when you do need to shift the front.


Now THAT sounds like a good idea! Any recommendations on a particular 32t ring? Also, was it a DIY job, or did you need a shop's help to make the change out? Any derailuer adjustments or chain shortening to make it work?


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

It is a regular shimano 32t ring. I don't recall the number or anything. I would guess there are dozens of chain rings that would fit. 

I changed it this summer, I think I moved the front der down a bit, but I didn't shorten the chain... it was doing a pretty good job of that on its own. If I weren't having the chain issues previously mentioned, it would have been a good idea to pull out a link or two. You don't NEED to shorten the chain, because it should already be sized to hit little/little without having the chain fall slack, but conventional wisdom would be to shorten it.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

*29er Wheel Set for Lurch FS*

I've been looking at options for gravel riding with my Lurch FS. One of the options I'm looking at is to use a 29er wheel set. Any thoughts about the 29er fat bike wheel set offered by BD???

Save Up to 60% Off FatBike, MTB, Road, Lifestyle Bicycle Bike Wheels for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

Even though I'd change the tires that come with the set, having a lighter/skinnier/faster wheel/tire for gravel (and some pavement) riding seems more financially appealing than considering a separate bike for the task.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I have that wheelset and never use it. Thinking of unlacing them and having some marge lites laced on instead.

I do have a super sweet trail bike, so this bike gets neglected quite a bit in the summer. I hated the wider q factor with narrow tires. With the fat tires its not a huge deal to me for some reason


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> I hated the wider q factor with narrow tires. With the fat tires its not a huge deal to me for some reason


Although this doesn't seem to make sense, I totally get it.


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## SurferBugs (Oct 27, 2015)

BikesFloat said:


> I've been looking at options for gravel riding with my Lurch FS. One of the options I'm looking at is to use a 29er wheel set. Any thoughts about the 29er fat bike wheel set offered by BD???
> 
> Even though I'd change the tires that come with the set, having a lighter/skinnier/faster wheel/tire for gravel (and some pavement) riding seems more financially appealing than considering a separate bike for the task.


B Float,

I get wanting to dial in/optimize a bike for a particular kind of riding. I can't tell you how many times I've swapped tires and the front cog on my Motobecane Outcast 29er singlespeed. Honestly though, the thing that makes riding my Lurch so much fun is those big fat tires. I don't ride on snow (because I'm in south Texas), but so far I've ridden my Lurch on the beach, on the road, and on singletrack. Aside from the beach riding I have better/other bikes more suited to any particular type of riding than the Lurch. Road bike on the road. Singlespeed for looking cool around town and impressing my bros. Full Sus MTB for technical singletrack. Now I just ride my Lurch in all those settings because it's just so much fun. Ride your Lurch as is and have fun. It should work pretty well for "gravel riding". Blow by some skinny arm shaved leg roadie one day with those big Snowshoe tires humming like a motorcycle and enjoy the look on his face. If you wanna be lighter, go ahead and set it up tubeless. That really makes a noticeable difference and is alot cheaper than another set of wheels.

Shoot, by the time you drop $250 on that wheel set and then swap out the tires, you're getting close to the price of a 2016 Motobecane 429HT 29er , and that's a complete bike for $300!


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## voodoodr (Dec 24, 2015)

Delete


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Anyone tried relacing a mulefut rim to a bike that came with weinmans? Wondering if the spokes will work or if ill have to get new ones.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

For what it's worth, this was my solution. I used a nylock nut so that the radius kinda fit into the front of the frame and the collar matches both the height and width of the drop-out so the bolt really can't ever go anywhere ever again.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Meant to post a couple pics of Lurch in the one and only snow we've had here in SE Michigan this winter... The bike just rocks and never misses a beat. I'm extremely happy with the 1x10 and Bluto arrangement.


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

Have done about 4 rides now with the Lurch and couldn't be happier (though I am debating what life would be like with a Bluto - once I am gassed at the end of a ride, it would be nice to let the fork do a little of the modulation for me).

I am 6'3" and 195 pounds and have the XL frame. The sizing is perfect, except the reach with the 120mm 7degree stem is too far out causing me to slide forward on the saddle and get sore wrists. I replaced with a mid riser bar and 100mm 17 degree stem that are much better now.

I went 1x10 before the first ride with a 30 tooth race face ring and added the 42t wolftooth cog in the back with the filler 16t cog as well. I have only ridden very flat trails in the river bottoms so far, and for that it is perfect. Will report back after I tackle something more moderately hilly, but don't suspect I will have any regrets.

I also reversed the spacer bolts in the rear dropouts. With the 1x10 I was able to sink them fully to the head (going from the rear toward the front) then slam the wheel all the way forward and still have plenty of clearance at the seat stay. No problems with the wheel sliding back.

One problem I have had, that others have mentioned is getting the seat post to stay tight. The first ride I had sank about 4 inches after 10 miles before I realized. I was like 'man, it is getting hard to pedal..." I have it cranked super tight and it holds about 95% well. Might try some friction paste or roughing up the seat post or something...

FYI, the bike with an XL frame, rigid fork, with 1x10 is 38 pounds. Good enough. Considering I am usually carrying 10 pounds of gear anyways, I don't worry about weight of the bike much.

Definitely loving the bike. Wasn't sure I would be into winter biking so I bought the Lurch as a good value entry point bike and it has blown me away. If I knew I would have loved it as much as I am so far, I might have sprung for one of the Ti FS bikes


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## LBIkid (Mar 16, 2007)

Looking for a medium Lurch if anyone is selling. PM with details.


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## ChasingChubby (Dec 21, 2015)

OK, need some advice, trying to decide if I should get the rigid LURCH or the FS, heres the rundown
1) I am a Clyde - 6' 2" - 250#
2) No snow riding, only trails, some single track and the typical So. Cal. stuff
3) I am just starting to MTB
4) I want to have a second set of wheels that are 29 or 29 plus
This will be my only MTB, other than an old school HT that I use around town


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

IMO - if you are going to have one bike and you aren't including snow riding, I wouldn't get a fat bike. That is not to say a fat bike can't be fun on the trails, but I think your skills are going to progress quickly and you are going to want something more nimble. Being a big guy throws a bit of a twist in things, but assuming it is within spec, if I were to suggest one and only one bike for someone that won't be riding snow, it would be a 650b+ front sus. I am far from the expert, but from my moderate experience with bikes it is by far my favorite to ride for anything other than snow.

That being said, if you are set on the fat bike, I think the lurch is the perfect entry. Cro Mo and a good enough platform to upgrade cockpit and drivetrain to your preferences. If it is going to be your only bike and a trail bike, step up and get the Lurch FS with the Bluto for sure.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

I have a rigid Lurch as my only off road bike. I like it and don't want suspension, however lots of Lurch riders here rave about their Blutos, so it is worth considering.

I believe a fat bike is a good choice for a beginner, the added traction inspires confidence and the large tires don't require as much skill in picking and maintaining a line. This would help shorten the learning process and may even help reduce the number of spills.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

rex615 said:


> I have a rigid Lurch as my only off road bike. I like it and don't want suspension, however lots of Lurch riders here rave about their Blutos, so it is worth considering.
> 
> I believe a fat bike is a good choice for a beginner, the added traction inspires confidence and the large tires don't require as much skill in picking and maintaining a line. This would help shorten the learning process and may even help reduce the number of spills.


+1 What Rex said about it being a good choice for a beginner... I've ridden and raced MTB for years but now that Im in my 50's I've sold off everything other than the Lurch with a 80mm Bluto and I have no regrets whatsoever. The group of riders I could hang with in the past, I can still hang with or pass on the Lurch. The guys that used to drop me, still drop me... The big difference I see these days is that riding is more fun on the fatty. I don't worry much about lines, or sand, or mud, or snow, or parked cars, or children... 
When people on the trails ask if I like the bike for summertime single track riding, I tell them it's an absolute blast. My favorite line is to say "you could put Helen Keller on this thing, point her into the woods,, and she'll make it out the other side". The bike goes where bikes shouldn't be able to go.
I thought the rigid Lurch was ok when it arrived, but now that I've had the Bluto I'll never even think of going back. Just my .02


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## ChasingChubby (Dec 21, 2015)

Thank you Thank You.....
Great advice, I was leaning towards the Lurch FS, just needed some input from more savvy riders. Can't I get a set of wheels on BD for 29+ that fit the bike also?


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

Can't say I disagree with anything you guys said - the fatty is just dead simple to ride and always fun. Just to make sure it wasn't overlooked though, I was advocating a 650b PLUS (3 to 3.5" tire). I went from a 29er with a 2.25" to a Specialized Fuse, and I felt like my riding skill quadrupled overnight, but it was still very fast and light and dynamic enough that I feel like I won't become too skilled for the bike anytime soon.


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

bcucoach2 said:


> ... or mud, or snow, or parked cars, or children...


Lol


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## ChasingChubby (Dec 21, 2015)

I will probably doing a bit of hike a bike for a while, hope it pushes nice as well.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

ChasingChubby said:


> Thank you Thank You.....
> Great advice, I was leaning towards the Lurch FS, just needed some input from more savvy riders. Can't I get a set of wheels on BD for 29+ that fit the bike also?


I believe you can get the narrower wheels, but I'll tell you my view on that, FWIW. I've ridden the summer on single track, dirt roads, paved paths with my wife, literally everywhere you would think to ride a bike, and a few places you wouldn't have though of. Just about the time I tell my wife I might want to get another "skinny bike" so I can haul ass once in a while, it occurs to me that one of the greatest things about a fatty is that you can go anywhere at any time. If I were on skinny wheels I wouldn't be having as much fun... period. On a skinny set of wheels I may go a little faster and work a little less.... but those aren't priorities for me anymore. I can honestly say that the overwhelming majority of the rides I do, I end up venturing off into places that only the fatty can go. It may only be for a hundred yards into something, or it may be to detour along a beach....but either way, being on the fatty continues to allow diversity to rides that would otherwise become mundane.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

ChasingChubby said:


> OK, need some advice, trying to decide if I should get the rigid LURCH or the FS, heres the rundown
> 1) I am a Clyde - 6' 2" - 250#
> 2) No snow riding, only trails, some single track and the typical So. Cal. stuff
> 3) I am just starting to MTB
> ...


Rigid or FS will work for you to do all the things you listed. Its mainly about IF you want a fork or not. I have a Bluto and love it but I also have 2 rigid fatty's and love them as well. I cant say the fork is a game changer. Its nice to have some times but then other times I dont even find a major need for it. On bombing downhill sections its always a nice plus to have but when climbing I enjoy the feel of my rigid fatty.

As for 29er or plus wheels both can do that. You just need hubs that are the same size as your dropouts. I just built a set of 29er plus wheels for my rigid fat bike. It was between building them for my lurch with a bluto or a rigid steel. I picked the rigid and am super happy I did! Can just swap back to my fat wheels when the snow hits or blast around on my 29er on roids!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'll disagree with the guy above me.

The fork is a game changer. 

Even riding in snow, it takes the edge off some of the bigger chatter.

In the summer it takes the bike to the next level.

It's not necessary, but after having a fat bike with a bluto I'll never ride one without it.


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## ChasingChubby (Dec 21, 2015)

I think due to the cost of upgtade, it makes sense to just get it. Due to budget I was considering the Bullseye Pro, but at 250 pounds, I thought the cromo frame was better, any thoughts


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

ChasingChubby said:


> I think due to the cost of upgtade, it makes sense to just get it. Due to budget I was considering the Bullseye Pro, but at 250 pounds, I thought the cromo frame was better, any thoughts


Aluminum is typically stiffer than chromoly, but I think you'd be hard pressed to feel a difference with fat tires under you. As for strength, I think it's a moot point, especially if you're a newer rider because you're not going to be stressing the frame by pounding on it. Even if you were beating on it, frames are built pretty well these days. Sure there are failures now and then, but it happens with every material from carbon to steel and failures are the exception, not the rule.

The Lurch is spec'd a little better than the Bullseye and also seems capable of larger / wider tires due to rear dropout width which you may want to have later on.

I would say get which one makes you grin.... It doesn't matter if the bike is all carbon, unobtanium, and space age polymers... if it doesn't turn you on just looking at it, then you're probably not going to want to be on it as much as the one that really trips your trigger. Both bikes are fine choices, especially to get your feet wet (and muddy)... You won't make a poor decision, either way.


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## ian0789 (Jul 15, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> I'll disagree with the guy above me.
> 
> The fork is a game changer.
> 
> ...


The fork is definitely worth it if you get it, not saying its not good but its one of those things maybe I take for granted having one with a fork and others rigid? Yes when it freezes over it does take up some ice chatter but when in the new stuff I found I liked my rigid fatty or the lurch just stayed locked out. It depends on how you like your riding style as well. I love my rigid SS, the new 29er plus set up I have going on my other fatty is amazing and I find I stay away from my Lurch. With that said if I go to a place that is rocky and has a ton of fast down sections I will take the Lurch over my rigid.

Having both I find I swap back and forth alot so its hard to say that the bluto is going to end up dictating what bike I ride. Personally Id get the bluto and buy the carbon fork from BD to have the option to ride both if I was doing it again and only had one fat bike


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

I am sure it is mentioned somewhere in these 74 pages, but I just replaced my stock tubes with Specialized 26x2.3/3.0. The pair of stock tubes I had were 578g and 538g for a total or 1116g or 2.4 pounds for the pair (yikes!).

I forgot to measure the specialized tubes, but from what I can find, their reported weight is 280g for about 1.2 pounds a pair, or half the weight of the stock tubes. Bathroom scale confirmed, went from 37.6 pounds to 36.4 pounds (XL frame, 1x10)

That's a savings of 1.2 pounds give or take for $20 and about 30 minutes of work (those beads are no joke!).


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My tires don't inflate evenly and i have a hard time trying to get my beads to seat when using undersized tubes. The 24" versions stretch and work more evenly versus the 26" tubes. 

I've just stuck to using surly fat tubes because the sidewalls are softer and they inflate much more evenly


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

Interesting. I have seen the threads on the 24 inch tires, but it seems like that is a lot of stretch being asked of the tube. I am sure it is fine, but the 26 seemed safer. I inflated to about 28psi for each to pop the bead into place then dropped down and it stayed seated nicely.

Just got back from a quick 8 mile trail ride and the bike felt a bit more nimble. Glad I made the swap, assuming the tubes don't split


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

They also pinch flat much easier. I looked at them and they'd go flat.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

I've had good luck using Q-Tubes SL 26" x 2.4-2.7 running my air from 10-11lbs down to 5lbs depending on the conditions. With the traction of Bud and Lou I've been able to run the 10-11lb pressure to help with rolling resistance and still have tons of traction in the summertime. I dropped to 5lbs for the snow. I wouldn't trust a patch on a tube that has to stretch as much as these, so I keep a spare tube with me. It's sealed in a baggie and covered in baby powder.


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

*Fun Lake Ride*









Studded tires on a frozen lake is a lot of fun.

Lake Mary
Flagstaff, AZ
1/3/2016


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

Fatbiking with my kids and their Lurches at Devil's Thumb Ranch in Fraser, CO last week. My daughter (11) is on the orange 14" Lurch in the foreground. My son (14) is on the 18" purple in the distance. They love 'em.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Bike'nSplit said:


> View attachment 1040106
> 
> 
> Studded tires on a frozen lake is a lot of fun.
> ...


Nice pic! Which rims are those?


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## Bike'nSplit (Nov 14, 2014)

bcucoach2 said:


> Nice pic! Which rims are those?


Thanks! Cheap-o Chinese 90mm carbon rims from Q2 Cycling: 26er Q2 Carbon Fat Bike Width 90mm Tubeless Compatible Double Wall Rim Weigh 680g

They're pretty nice, and made a huge improvement in handling and acceleration, especially when set up tubeless


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

Does anyone know the paint code for the orange? The giant white band on the downtube kills what would be a beautiful bike. Would love to repaint the downtube. Totally fine if that voids the warranty - it is a cro mo frame, think I will be ok 

Looking forward to putting Bud/Lous on it before this weekend. Have been frustrated with the stock snowshoes washing out up front and spinning out in back. Think the snowshoes (ironically) will be great spring/summer/fall tires, but they are marginal for snow.


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## rex615 (Aug 2, 2014)

smhmpls said:


> Does anyone know the paint code for the orange? The giant white band on the downtube kills what would be a beautiful bike. Would love to repaint the downtube.











I realize beauty can be very subjective and I am sure your bike will look good without the white band but one of the reasons I picked the orange Lurch was because it reminded me of this bike.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My bike looks immensely better without the decals


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

smhmpls said:


> The giant white band on the downtube kills what would be a beautiful bike.


I agree. I have no issues displaying the Moto logo, but this one is like a gaudy bulletin board interrupting an otherwise awesome vista. Begs to be removed or covered. I did some yellow and orange vinyl surgery on my yellow Lurch. It turned out somewhat ghetto on real close inspection, but an improvement if you ask me. Poor phone photos though.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

empire_builder said:


> Fatbiking with my kids and their Lurches at Devil's Thumb Ranch in Fraser, CO last week. My daughter (11) is on the orange 14" Lurch in the foreground. My son (14) is on the 18" purple in the distance. They love 'em.
> View attachment 1040195


Somehow missed your post.... wow, that's a beautiful picture and a beautiful place!! Not quite like the scenery we have here in the Detroit area, lol.


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

FWIW, $150 and three day turn around for a bead blast and fresh, quality powder coat on the frame. Motobecane tube decals can be had from ebay if you wanted to put the name back on. I chose to make it more of a "mystery" bike and leave the brand off. My bike started out as the orange and white Lurch.


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

bcucoach2 said:


> FWIW, $150 and three day turn around for a bead blast and fresh, quality powder coat on the frame. Motobecane tube decals can be had from ebay if you wanted to put the name back on. I chose to make it more of a "mystery" bike and leave the brand off. My bike started out as the orange and white Lurch.
> View attachment 1040850


That might be an option too, but I really like the orange. Might try and match the paint and just rattle can and clear the down tube.

The other dilemma though is I wish the standover clearance was greater. I am about to put Bud/Lous on tonight and despite being 6'3" - I think I am going to be at about my max standover tolerance. Wish the top tube had a little more drop. May end up with a different frame altogether next winter...


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

smhmpls said:


> I am sure it is mentioned somewhere in these 74 pages, but I just replaced my stock tubes with Specialized 26x2.3/3.0. The pair of stock tubes I had were 578g and 538g for a total or 1116g or 2.4 pounds for the pair (yikes!).
> 
> I forgot to measure the specialized tubes, but from what I can find, their reported weight is 280g for about 1.2 pounds a pair, or half the weight of the stock tubes. Bathroom scale confirmed, went from 37.6 pounds to 36.4 pounds (XL frame, 1x10)
> 
> That's a savings of 1.2 pounds give or take for $20 and about 30 minutes of work (those beads are no joke!).


So much for my 36.4 pound Lurch - I just put Surly Bud/Lou on and while I could have run the 26 x 3.0 tubes, I just felt like I was pushing my luck with a bigger tire and threw the Vee rubber 26 x 4.5 tubes back in. With the heavy tubes and the larger tires I am at 39.2 pounds. But the thing looks like it could crawl through hell and back with the tall lugs on these tires. Looking forward to trying them out.

Incidentally, my standover is now 34 inches mid top tube with these tires. I have about a mm of clearance at that... no bueno.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Enjoying the Lurch and the Bluto

9" of freshies by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Baker - Very cool pic......tis the season.....or maybe, twas the season......

I have had my Lurch with Bluto for one year at this point (give or take) and I love the damn thing. Took the advice on this thread and immediately swapped the rear skewer for the Hope and swapped to Q-Tubes. 

I rode it about 150 miles in the summer, maybe 200 miles......heck I don't know, I used it more in the summer than I thought. Fun bike. Tons of traction........rode some gnarly wet muddy rocks and roots with it and laughed at clearing spots we normally would be challenged heavily to maintain progress.

Plenty of hate for BD bikes on this forum, but honestly, if you know your way around a bike from a wrench perspective, I laugh my ass off at the folks wasting money paying $1000 more for a sticker on the frame and a crappier set of parts.

All that being said, I just bought my wife a Scott Big Ed as I got a good deal and I can get it next week vs. ordering another BD now for her.

I plan to proudly ride the Moto sticker on this thing as I climb pass or ride past the sticker snobs that still think the equipment is more important than getting out and riding whatever blows your hair back.

Enjoy......


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## bcucoach2 (Jun 21, 2015)

Great pic Baker!


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

River19 said:


> Baker - Very cool pic......tis the season.....or maybe, twas the season......
> 
> Plenty of hate for BD bikes on this forum...


Thanks. I don't really care what random people on the internet think of BD. The Lurch works fine for me. 



bcucoach2 said:


> Great pic Baker!


Thanks. I got out for another ride near Keystone, Colorado this morning. Nothing too exciting, but the conditions were good and I was digging the Lurch/Bluto combo. The Bluto is tons of fun in the technical stuff...but I really bought it to save my achy elbows from refrozen footprints.

I haven't been obsessing over the Lurch's portliness, but whenever I upgrade, I think about getting something lighter. Next week, I'll be replacing my Ringle Zuzu flat pedals with some Xpedo Spry pedals. That'll drop about 260g of weight.

I also have a set of XT hydraulic disc brakes just sitting around. I wasn't really planning on putting them on the Lurch, but I switched out bikes with a friend last week and even his lower-end Deores seemed way way nicer than my BB7's. I've ridden BB7's on most of my bikes for years, but I suppose I'll give the XT's a go on the Lurch.

Here is another Lurch photo (don't think I posted it in this thread before)...

Flying Dog by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

The XTs will be a nice upgrade. Early on with winter stuff people were worried about the hydros and the fluid getting gummy in the cold so everyone was thinking BB7s were the cat's ass for fat bikes. The BB7s work great and they are very simple obviously and not too heavy all things considered but I think the whole winter/hydro fear is largely noise seeing as how more and more FBs are coming with good hydros.

The XTs will be good....


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

My rear hub is on it's last leg. The bearings are so smoked the casette barely freewheels. The others that support the axle are super gritty. Tried to clean and re-lube them to no avail.

I originally disassembled the hub because it sounded like the ratchet pawls were skipping while freewheeling. Looks like my freehub was contacting the ratchet. My pawl pockets look ok, but there is a groove worn down the middle of the rarchet. Trying to decide what to do at this point. Replace the hub, new wheelset or new bike.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

So what I've decided to do. I have a set of 29er wheels that bd offered a while back. I unlaced them and will use these hubs with a set of mulefuts I'm hoping to pick up tomorrow after work.

Going to put a new set of bearings in this wheelset. Looks like the damage is from play in bad bearings causing contact with the pawl retainer clip. With new bearings I think the hub will be rideable for quite a while since my pawl pockets will be ok. I'll keep the weinmanns for emergencies and just ride the newer set. I'm pretty sure the wear is from neglecting my bearings and just relubing bearings when they should have been replaced
2 seasons on these bearings with almost no love seems fair to me. If I kill another novatec hub I'll look elsewhere but it seems like all rear fatbike hubs have issues at this point.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Liking the new brakes (XT M785) and pedals (Xpedo Spry) on my Lurch.

Spruce Mountain snow ride by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## dubblewubble (Aug 21, 2013)

Hey guys. New to the fat bike scene, pretty new to the site, but not new to cycling. Just ordered an 18" Rigid Lurch in Grape Soda and I'm pretty excited (hopefully it fits, I'm 5'10" so it should work. They didn't have any other size options in any other colors anyways. Anyone know if they'll ever restock sizes?)

Anyways, from what I have read, this is what you guys have been recommending:

1. New Hope skewer.
2. Sand where contact will be made between skewer and frame for better grip.
3. Flip tensioner bolts around to prevent bending.
4. Checking alignment on brakes (bent mounts)

Anything crucial that I'm missing? Also thinking of going tubeless right out of the box (the stock tires will work for that, right?)

Cheers!


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Sounds like you have the punch list pretty much down. I'd say the Skewer is the main thing to nail right away. I swapped mine out after my first ride.

I haven't touched my tensioner bolts.....

Brakes were fine out of the box but check them....

Swap out the tubes to something that weighs less than a car....Q Tubes worked for me.

Obviously some people wet themselves over tire choice....and if it is still coming with Snowshoes, I haven't' had any problem with the Snowshoes....I rode a few hundred miles this summer on loamy singletrack and wet muddy roots and rocks with nothing but traction. And we just rode this weekend in 4-5" of falling powder where I broke trail with no issues and then the next day on groomed (by snowmachine) singletrck with powder over it and was fine. Tires are expensive, some people get all worked up over them, personally I've found pressure has more to do with traction than the tire themselves in many cases. I say get out and ride on the Snowshoes and see if they work for the conditions you ride in. If they don't, play with the pressure, only if that fails to help would I consider new rubber.

It is a great bike, and for the price it is a fantastic bike. Ride it and enjoy.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Lurch with studded 29x3.0's...good times

29+ studded tires on the Lurch by Brad Baker, on Flickr

29+ Lurch by Brad Baker, on Flickr

Wheelset from BD: Save Up to 60% Off FatBike, MTB, Road, Lifestyle Bicycle Bike Wheels for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes
Tire info here: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/diy-29-studded-tires-1001167.html


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Baker......I love it. I have the same ride, same color......thought about doing the 29er thing, but enjoyed riding it fat in the summer as well to mix things up.

For basic wheels that provide another option the price is easy on the wallet.


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## dubblewubble (Aug 21, 2013)

Thank you, River19!


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## dubblewubble (Aug 21, 2013)

Well, never mind. Got an email saying I've been refunded, and another saying they oversold the Lurch I ordered  no other Lurches in my size either. Oh well, guess I'll keep shopping.


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Oh man, I am sorry. I guess that suggests people are buying the Lurch......

What size did you try to order?


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## dubblewubble (Aug 21, 2013)

18" frame. Tried to order the blue FS that says "LastOne" before the rigid, but PayPal told me it was sold out.


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## josephjosephson (Aug 19, 2015)

baker said:


> Lurch with studded 29x3.0's...good times
> 
> 29+ studded tires on the Lurch by Brad Baker, on Flickr
> 
> ...


Very cool.

I gotta ask, and this is for anyone, why does the frame geo look so different than what BD shows on their site in the pics?
See https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/fat-bikes-lurch-x9-fatbikes.htm for reference. Does the geometry differ that much between sizes? I saw someone post an orange 14" some pages back that showed the down tube to be connected even lower on the seat post tube (or whatever it's called). The pics on the site show a much more level top tube. Does this one look different because of the 29er wheels? I'm thinking about grabbing my wife one of these, but this is a bit confusing.

Thanks

Update: here is the 14" from the post:








And here is a pic from BD'S site:









TIA
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

The smaller frames have a lower top tube and shorter seat tube to create a reasonable standover height given the fixed wheel size. Geometry chart is here:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/lurch-fatbikes-geo.gif


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## josephjosephson (Aug 19, 2015)

Kinda figured, but wow does it look different between a smaller and larger size frame. Not sure how I missed the chart. Going to blame it on using a cell phone. Thanks a bunch....now to decide if this is the one. I love the price and components, but the weight seems a bit much for a small lady, and there seems to be a lot of rear hub issues (among some other possible problems). I'll spend the next day or two combing this thread. It looks like BD may have changed out the free wheel body on the rear hub to be steel now, but not positive....thinking aloud. Anyway thanks again!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

josephjosephson said:


> Kinda figured, but wow does it look different between a smaller and larger size frame. Not sure how I missed the chart. Going to blame it on using a cell phone. Thanks a bunch....now to decide if this is the one. I love the price and components, but the weight seems a bit much for a small lady, and there seems to be a lot of rear hub issues (among some other possible problems). I'll spend the next day or two combing this thread. It looks like BD may have changed out the free wheel body on the rear hub to be steel now, but not positive....thinking aloud. Anyway thanks again!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


No problem. And, the weight is real. My small with some upgrades is 36.8 pounds. It is a pig, but I still like it.


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

The freehub bodies are steel now, which in most cases is a downgrade due to extra weight. You'd be hard pressed to find many high end hubsets with a steel freehub body. However, it prevents the inexpensive cassettes from digging into the splines, which was something people complained about on the early bikes. 

I managed to tear up the pawls in my freehub, despite the steel body. It was very cold out, and I fear that the grease I lubed the pawls with was too thick in the cold. I was in granny gear when I heard the first "pop" and the "pop" noises got more frequent as the ride went on. 2 of the pawls were completely destroyed, the other 2 are misshapen but still there. 

Long story short, BD sent me out a new freehub body pronto, and I had zero down time. The new body and pawls were lubed with a very light gun oil and I'll keep an eye out for wear. 

The picture posted earlier of the ratchet drive inside the hub... I believe that's what it is supposed to look like. Mine looks the same, and initially I thought it was damaged, too. But after cleaning it completely and looking very carefully at it, I'm fairly certain that groove is there to allow the retaining clip some space to expand as the pawls move across the ratchet ring.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm a BIG dude, and I was tugging on this thing in granny ring when it started acting up. Freehub issues are a way of life for me. The only solution I have found is Industry9 hubs..... $$$$ In no way would I blame BD for this problem, and they still managed to take care of it.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got a set of mulefut rims locally. Laced up the front one tonight with hubs from the BD 29er set i had that i never used. Black DT comp spokes and silver alu nipples. Stoked to get these trued and tires mounted.

Kinda worried about the alu nipples, but we'll rock em for a season and see what happens.


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## Dolbydarma (Mar 16, 2013)

*Quick vid*

Here's a quick vid of my Moto Sturgis and my bud's Lurch this Saturday here in Colorado Springs.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

The only thing to worry about with the hubs is loctiting the axle endcap with blue loc tite and that the bearings that come with the hubs are junk. I replaced all my bearings in the hubs and all is good in the world.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Got my wheels mounted. The mulefuts are MUCH better wheels. My GC on the rear was tight but seated at 20 psi, front is a bud that was looser but still tight. I bet i could have seated them with a floor pump. I mounted them with tubes for the time being, to seat the gorilla tape. 

Without going tubeless it saved me 450g and i added a steel freehub.


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## toad37 (Feb 3, 2016)

Wow, these look so fun. I'm jonesing to order one, any word on when the restock (if any) will occur? I need an XL! TIA )


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## dubblewubble (Aug 21, 2013)

toad37 said:


> Wow, these look so fun. I'm jonesing to order one, any word on when the restock (if any) will occur? I need an XL! TIA )


An email I got from a rep said not until the fall :/


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## toad37 (Feb 3, 2016)

dubblewubble said:


> An email I got from a rep said not until the fall :/


Oh bummer! Thanks for the reply though!


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

Good morning all!
Got an upgrade question I'm hoping someone can help with. I haven't had a chance to look at my bike or these parts together, but I'm hoping I can get everything I need together to make the upgrade possible. So my cousin gave me his old set of Magura MTS hydraulic disc brakes and rotors, and I wanted to throw them on the Lurch. The new rotors are 203 and 180. What will I need to set these up on the Lurch? I have the first run Lurch with Weinmann wheels and BB7 mechanical brakes. I'm assuming some new caliper adaptors are needed. Is it just a matter of buying 203mm and 180mm adaptors? I've never done a brake upgrade like this before, so sorry if it's a silly question.
Thanks


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

I will be putting my XL Orange Lurch up for sale shortly if anyone is looking. Bike is like new, has about 6 rides on it. Really a great bike, I just got upgraditis and bought a different bike.

XL
Orange
Front is 1x with RaceFace 30t (will include the 2x bits if you want to switch back, x9 shifter and x7 front derailleur)
Rear is 11-36 with X5 shifter and X7 rear derailleur
Race face allow riser bar
All the stock parts other than that. Everything pretty much like brand new.
Pedals not included.

Probably looking for $900. Might be too lazy to ship, pickup around Minneapolis would be ideal.

**BIKE IS SOLD***


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## toad37 (Feb 3, 2016)

smhmpls said:


> I will be putting my XL Orange Lurch up for sale shortly if anyone is looking. Bike is like new, has about 6 rides on it. Really a great bike, I just got upgraditis and bought a different bike.
> 
> XL
> Orange
> ...


Wish I closer. How tall are you to have chosen the xl? I'm 6.3" with 33 inseam.

Also, what bike did you upgrade to? 

Thanks


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## smhmpls (Oct 20, 2015)

toad37 said:


> Wish I closer. How tall are you to have chosen the xl? I'm 6.3" with 33 inseam.
> 
> Also, what bike did you upgrade to?
> 
> Thanks


The bike just sold to someone that lived about 2 miles from me actually, was happy to find a local buyer for sure.

I am 6'3" as well and it was the right size for sure. My inseam is a little longer than yours and the only thought is that the standover height with big tires (bud/lou or bigger) gets pretty tall. You would be fine, especially with winter boots on, but just one thought on the XL frame. Otherwise was super happy with the bike and the new buyer is really excited to.

I bought a 2016 Framed Alaskan alloy with the carbon fork. Have been sick and haven't even had a chance to ride it yet, but it is a great looking bike and considerably lighter.

If you haven't already, join the Fat Bike Trader group on facebook. Lots of great deals on there!


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Can someone with the newer bikes with the faceface cranks tell me how the bottom bracket comes spaced? I just got a turbine crankset and it required 2 on both sides. The q factor is huge and my chainline SUCKS. 

My chainline lines up with the 4th smallest cog with a narrow wide chainring. I feel like im going to have to keep running it as a 2x so i don't cross the chain so much


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

Utahbikemike said:


> Can someone with the newer bikes with the faceface cranks tell me how the bottom bracket comes spaced? I just got a turbine crankset and it required 2 on both sides. The q factor is huge and my chainline SUCKS.
> 
> My chainline lines up with the 4th smallest cog with a narrow wide chainring. I feel like im going to have to keep running it as a 2x so i don't cross the chain so much


NDS - (1)2.5mm spacer 
DS - (2)2.5mm spacers

FWIW The lurch WILL take a 170mm rear hub spaced crank if going 1x10 and flipping the chainring outwards. It will greatly reduce Q factor as well, while keeping IMO a perfect chain line.

I recently upgraded the stock race face ride cranks to race face Aeffects. Went from a 228mm to 205mm Q factor huge difference, love the cinch set and simplicity of a single 26T ring.

When researching RF cranks it seems the turbines have a wider Q then others(Aeffect/next SL). http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/Crank_Q-factors_and_chainlines.pdf

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

big boy phil said:


> Good morning all!
> Got an upgrade question I'm hoping someone can help with. I haven't had a chance to look at my bike or these parts together, but I'm hoping I can get everything I need together to make the upgrade possible. So my cousin gave me his old set of Magura MTS hydraulic disc brakes and rotors, and I wanted to throw them on the Lurch. The new rotors are 203 and 180. What will I need to set these up on the Lurch? I have the first run Lurch with Weinmann wheels and BB7 mechanical brakes. I'm assuming some new caliper adaptors are needed. Is it just a matter of buying 203mm and 180mm adaptors? I've never done a brake upgrade like this before, so sorry if it's a silly question.
> Thanks


These bikes come stock with 180mm rotors so you will need a 203mm spacer for the front. Don't run a 203 in the back as it's not designed for that.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

I'll have to mess with it later. It required 2 nds and 2 ds. I did find some adjustment by moving some rubber washers that ill have to do.


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## big boy phil (Jun 10, 2005)

Has anyone looked into making the lurch a 29 plus? I'm considering it. Just not sure if 29 plus would fit. I think 27.5 plus would fit though. Any thoughts on this?

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

Both should fit. 5" tire bikes usually have clearance for 29+


I moved those spacers and my chainline is centered. Should be good to go for the summer. I'll definately keep it 2x for winter.


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Dropped 7 pounds from my XL, down to 31.5. Race face/wolftooth 1x10, carbon fork, carbon seatpost, Q-tubes, Juggernaut Pros. Totally different bike now:


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

gringoloco78 said:


> Dropped 7 pounds from my XL, down to 31.5. Race face/wolftooth 1x10, carbon fork, carbon seatpost, Q-tubes, Juggernaut Pros. Totally different bike now:


That's beautiful! Were you able to reduce the Q factor by switching to this setup?


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Sparkitekt said:


> That's beautiful! Were you able to reduce the Q factor by switching to this setup?


Thanks for the compliment! No change in Q--just switched to a narrow-wide front chainring on the 190 cranks.


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## Sparkitekt (Nov 9, 2012)

gringoloco78 said:


> Thanks for the compliment! No change in Q--just switched to a narrow-wide front chainring on the 190 cranks.
> View attachment 1068066


I have the same color Lurch in large. The Q's starting to become a killer for me when I transition between the Lurch and my regular beater. It seems like support on this sub forum dropped off the radar after everyone took delivery. :/


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

Sparkitekt said:


> I have the same color Lurch in large. The Q's starting to become a killer for me when I transition between the Lurch and my regular beater. It seems like support on this sub forum dropped off the radar after everyone took delivery. :/


You MIGHT get a 170 crankset to work. There is about 13mm of clearance between the crank arms and chain stays. Maybe give it a try and let us know if it works.


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## empire_builder (Apr 10, 2008)

So if you added up all you've spent, what other bikes could you have bought in that price range? Just curious.


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## Haste11 (Jul 5, 2014)

gringoloco78 said:


> You MIGHT get a 170 crankset to work. There is about 13mm of clearance between the crank arms and chain stays. Maybe give it a try and let us know if it works.


I no longer own the lurch but it DOES indeed clear a 170 spaced crank with comfortable room to spare 1x*. I ran the race face Aeffects 170 spaced for the direct mount chain ring option and reduced Q factor was greatly appreciated.

Edit: see post #1895


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## gringoloco78 (Oct 31, 2015)

empire_builder said:


> So if you added up all you've spent, what other bikes could you have bought in that price range? Just curious.


Maybe a nicer BD bike? Or an RSD Mayor. Or an entry level big name bike.

Fork - $100
Tires -$110
1x10 - $120
Seatpost - $30
Misc - $100


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## Meek (Sep 11, 2005)

Which q-tubes fit the 4.7 snowshoes on my Weinmanns? Thanks.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jul 25, 2016)

I have been looking at getting this bike. Will it hold up to 275 lbs? Any big guys on here with experience with this bike?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

BullseyePrecision said:


> I have been looking at getting this bike. Will it hold up to 275 lbs? Any big guys on here with experience with this bike?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I'm about that weight right out of the shower. I've been on an XL Lurch for a little over a year now, although it is not my primary bike.

I broke one set of freehub pawls, but B-D sent me a whole new freehub free of charge. Mine broke when slogging through 8" of wet, heavy, unpacked snow in granny ring. I used a much lighter lube when I reassembled it, and it's been fine since. I have been meaning to pick up a handful of replacement pawls so I'm not screwed the next time it happens.

I broke the chain... Hollow pins and skeletonized side plates don't last long under big boys. Swapped it over to an XT chain.

Bent the seatpost. :smallviolin:

I like the bike a lot. I changed the big ring to a 32t, the bars and stem to my liking, and I have a set of Surly Lou tires for winter. I would also recommend turning the dropout bolts around before you even ride it. Even with the little bit of messing around I've done with it, it's hard to beat it for the money. With the Mulfut rims they have on them now, I'd almost buy it again!

You have probably already figured out that big guys break bikes and require some special attention. Lurch is a good starting point.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jul 25, 2016)

So the Lurch FS has Bluto. I'm pretty new at this. Can someone explain to me what Bluto is?

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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

BullseyePrecision said:


> So the Lurch FS has Bluto. I'm pretty new at this. Can someone explain to me what Bluto is?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Bluto is the suspension fork. The regular lurch (non-"FS") has a rigid fork. No suspension. It's a couple hundred cheaper. Get the FS if you can afford the difference.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jul 25, 2016)

EZSnow said:


> Bluto is the suspension fork. The regular lurch (non-"FS") has a rigid fork. No suspension. It's a couple hundred cheaper. Get the FS if you can afford the difference.


Ok thanks for the info

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*Re problems with Lurch...*



EZSnow said:


> I'm about that weight right out of the shower. I've been on an XL Lurch for a little over a year now, although it is not my primary bike.
> 
> I broke one set of freehub pawls, but B-D sent me a whole new freehub free of charge. Mine broke when slogging through 8" of wet, heavy, unpacked snow in granny ring. I used a much lighter lube when I reassembled it, and it's been fine since. I have been meaning to pick up a handful of replacement pawls so I'm not screwed the next time it happens.
> 
> ...


Good answer EZ. I'm 265lbs and I would like to add that I also broke the chain and the seatpost. I made the mistake of lubing the post and it was forever slipping down. The quick release clamp was not doing the job so I replaced it with a standard clamp, which I could tighten with an hex key. The seatpost eventually bent from over tightening. I replaced it with another aluminum post but used Carbon fiber grit lube to keep it from slipping - works fine now.

I also bent the seat rails on the seat that comes with the bike. I am not a hard rider, just hit a few good bumps. Also bent the front rim a bit when it got pinched between 2 rocks. It straighen out well, not really the rim's fault

Otherwise I am happy with the bike, only a few poorly spec'd parts on what is otherwise a good bike.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jul 25, 2016)

kevinstheone said:


> Good answer EZ. I'm 265lbs and I would like to add that I also broke the chain and the seatpost. I made the mistake of lubing the post and it was forever slipping down. The quick release clamp was not doing the job so I replaced it with a standard clamp, which I could tighten with an hex key. The seatpost eventually bent from over tightening. I replaced it with another aluminum post but used Carbon fiber grit lube to keep it from slipping - works fine now.
> 
> I also bent the seat rails on the seat that comes with the bike. I am not a hard rider, just hit a few good bumps. Also bent the front rim a bit when it got pinched between 2 rocks. It straighen out well, not really the rim's fault
> 
> Otherwise I am happy with the bike, only a few poorly spec'd parts on what is otherwise a good bike.


So the seat post should be switched out?

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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*re bent seatrails*



BullseyePrecision said:


> So the seat post should be switched out?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


The seat lasted 9-10 months and was reasonable comfortable. I would not change it out till you have to.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jul 25, 2016)

kevinstheone said:


> The seat lasted 9-10 months and was reasonable comfortable. I would not change it out till you have to.


Oh okay that's good.


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## countryboy_mike (Sep 21, 2016)

*Finally got a fattie! 2017 Lurch*









I love this bike. I am surprised how nimble this beast is. Can't wait to try it in the snow, the primary reason I bought it. Its awful fun on the dirt as well, though. I will be converting to tubeless this weekend.


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## countryboy_mike (Sep 21, 2016)

bcucoach2 said:


> Meant to post a couple pics of Lurch in the one and only snow we've had here in SE Michigan this winter... The bike just rocks and never misses a beat. I'm extremely happy with the 1x10 and Bluto arrangement.
> View attachment 1038739
> View attachment 1038740
> View attachment 1038741
> View attachment 1038742


 Where was this at. I just picked up a 2017 Lurch and live in Howell. I know of a few groomed trails in my area, but was curious where you were riding.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

Awesome! Love to see more pics 



countryboy_mike said:


> View attachment 1095641
> 
> 
> I love this bike. I am surprised how nimble this beast is. Can't wait to try it in the snow, the primary reason I bought it. Its awful fun on the dirt as well, though. I will be converting to tubeless this weekend.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Yay great thread! I just joined the club and ordered my 2017 Lurch FS Bluto (with New SRAM GX) before even realizing there was such a dedicated community of Lurchers(?)

I test rode a Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 at REI and liked it a lot, but at 2 grand for no suspension decided to save some money a go with the BD option, looks like it was the right choice judging by all the feedback here.


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## joebikesdirect (Sep 5, 2014)

@haymaker- yes, these Motobecane Lurch FS front suspension fatbikes with Rockshox Bluto forks are underpriced for now at only $1299. May go up at least $100 to $200 soon. Especially since rigid fatbikes with lesser parts are selling for up and around $2,000 - wow. The Lurch FS with Bluto is way underpriced at $1299.

You did great getting yours now. Post some pics when you get it out riding


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

*First week 2017 Lurch FS*

I unboxed and assembled my 2017 Lurch FS on Friday. It only took 4 days from order to ship across the country!

I've had it on a 20 mile gravel ride, and 15 miles of single track so far. Surprisingly, I am getting PR's on trails that I've ridden many, many times on an aluminum rigid fat bike. I'm no racer nor do I set out to be the fastest, but this bike feels like a rocket compared to my lighter fat bike for some reason.

I'm running Jumbo Jim 4.0's on it as they're my favorite 'dry weather' fat tire, and I have the dropouts pushed in pretty far. Excellent handling and geometry, not far from a 27.5 trail bike.

Everything about this bike screams quality, and I love the geometry. I think cable brakes (bb7) were a good choice for this ride as an expedition / do it all fatty. They're plenty powerful - I think even more than my hydros, but I'm finding them to be a bit more 'binary' than hydraulics (on/off).

More to come! I need to get some better pics, but this is the only one I've felt like getting off and taking so far. Very impressed with the value of this bike.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Not the photo I was hoping to post when my Lurch arrived this afternoon  Sent an email to BD Service,, waiting for a response. This isnt a scratch where 50 bucks off will make it right !


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

haymaker said:


> Not the photo I was hoping to post when my Lurch arrived this afternoon  Sent an email to BD Service,, waiting for a response. This isnt a scratch where 50 bucks off will make it right !
> 
> View attachment 1096531


Geez! That is bad. BD will take care of you, they will definitely have to go over UPS for that one. UPS must have drop kicked the box to dent this bike..


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

haymaker said:


> Not the photo I was hoping to post when my Lurch arrived this afternoon  Sent an email to BD Service,, waiting for a response. This isnt a scratch where 50 bucks off will make it right !


That sucks!

Was anything else damaged, or can they send you just a frame?

What does the box look like?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

The box is pretty beat up, rear wheel bent. I just got a UPS return label emailed to me, so guess BD want me to ship it back, no reply to my email ,so guess they'll send me a replacement once this one's returned? Sucks having to wait, but Definitely dont wanna refund, just wanna ride!

Anyone know a number to call, would rather speak to them in person than wait on an email?


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

haymaker said:


> Anyone know a number to call, would rather speak to them in person than wait on an email?


(904) 928-2453


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

vid1900 said:


> (904) 928-2453


Thanks, tried calling them & left a VM. In the meantime packaged up the bike and dropped off at UPS for return shipping. Hoping they can turnaround a replacement quick and dont run out of the Lurch FS in yellow 20inch! The color looked nice and those tires man, can't wait to try them out when all this gets sorted.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Heard back from them, new Bike is on the way, psyched! Nice to have deal with a company with decent customer service, got my fingers crossed that UPS take better care of this package!


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

haymaker said:


> Heard back from them, new Bike is on the way, psyched!


Did you actually get a phone call back and speak with a human, or just an email?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

vid1900 said:


> Did you actually get a phone call back and speak with a human, or just an email?


An actual real human! I was shocked


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

I have the worst luck, UPS Tracking said Monday delivery at first, that fell back to Tuesday and now it states "Due to operating conditions, your package may be delayed. / Delivery will be rescheduled." with no delivery date.


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## vid1900 (Jun 8, 2016)

haymaker said:


> UPS Tracking said Monday delivery at first, that fell back to Tuesday and now it states "Due to operating conditions, your package may be delayed. / Delivery will be rescheduled." with no delivery date.


OMG, can you imagine what they are doing to that box?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

vid1900 said:


> OMG, can you imagine what they are doing to that box?


Don't even joke about that, I'm having nightmares about that already, ha!

Assuming my Lurch ever arrives in one piece I wanted to make sure I had everything i needed ready to start riding after reading all 39 pages of this thread.

I've ordered the Hope Fatsno QR Skewer 190mm and will check on the brake alignment before riding. Some on here say they have reversed the screws in the rear dropouts and some have replaced them? What have you guys replaced them with and is it necessary with the Fatsno skewer?

Also, I'm considering ordering the 29er wheelset that BD sell for fair-weather riding but will wait until Spring for that. Anything else I should look out for?

(edit: Also ordered some Qtube super lites, will give those a try first before attempting to go tubeless)

Am i missing anything?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Yay, finally my Lurch arrived and other than a scuffed up chainstay all is good. The front brake is indeed rubbing like a ...... despite how much I fiddle with it, but the gearing front & rear seems well tuned out of the box, all and in took 30 minutes to get fully assembled this evening, accept now its dark so havent ridden it yet, can't wait for the weekend!


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## Barheet (Jul 13, 2012)

Congrats on the new Banana Lurch! Looks sweet. For the front brake rub, make sure the rotor is not bent. You can spin the wheel and check. The BB7's are really easy to adjust. They have a knob on the caliper for moving the pad in and out. As long as it's not rubbing constantly, you should be able to break them in pretty quickly. 

Also, get yourself a light for riding a night. It greatly extends my riding time in the fall and winter.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Got out this evening on the new Lurch, and absolutely love it. Got quite a few comments on the trails, fatty's are still unique enough to catch the attention of most.

This thing is a tank and just ploughs over the rock gardens, no more looking for the best line DH just point this thing forward and smile hard 

It's a different story up hills, feels like riding a kids bouncy castle with wheels on uphill streets, even with the fork locked out, it was quite funny but it didn't stop me from climbing on the trails though, this thing can climb anything and I managed to get up some climbs I'd never done before. With the daylight hours dwindling a light is definitely going to be a good idea. Can't wait for the bad weather now


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

A a couple more for you from my second ride out, getting the hang of it now. Absolutely no adverse effects felt in my knees from the wide Qfactor as others have mentioned some earlier posts.


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## steveski (Jun 4, 2013)

Does anyone have any of the hub ends/spacers for the stock rigid fork? I have a Bluto on my Lurch and wanting to swap back to the rigid fork, but replaced my hub ends...


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## kevinstheone (Nov 2, 2015)

*weight of small frame*

Just weighed my size small lurch frame - an a bathroom scale so take it for what it is worth - 7.0lbs


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

I've added a phone mount and some mud guards to the front and rear of my lurch and am enjoying exploring trails that were out of reach to me before on my 27.5 and not being stopped by any trail obstructions, rocks, pools of water or horse manure and staying dry


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

FS: 2015 Bluto 100mm + Cane Creek Angleset + 15 thru axle hub adaptors, $500 plus shipping.

Selling this for a freind, the fork and angleset were installed in a late 2015 Lurch, both are in excellent shape, fewer than two dozen rides. The Fork has some scuff marks from use, but no damage. This is the non RCT3 fork.

The Bluto makes a great upgrade to a Lurch, softens the ride, increases traction, really makes the Lurch shine.

To run a Bluto on the original Lurch, pre-bent frame design, you will need an Angleset, hence the two being sold as a package. The Angleset alone is worth $150.

The only caveat to this sale is he needs the original 9mm QR hub adaptors.

Send me a PM and I'll forward his contact info.


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## SHO4CY (Nov 18, 2016)

Peoples,

Brand new to the forum. Finally bought a Bluto Lurch (grey 20"). Hoping to get some help here. Put it together last night. There seems to be a decent amount of rubbing on the front disk. It is 100% even rubbing all the way around. No amount of adjustments on either dial gets rid of it. 

Are the mounts of the caliper adjustable? If not how the heck are you supposed to get the disk to not rub? Help!


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> To run a Bluto on the original Lurch, pre-bent frame design, you will need an Angleset, hence the two being sold as a package. The Angleset alone is worth $150.


Why? To avoid the crown hitting the downtube? In my experience, the Bluto on a pre-bent frame design has been fine (and a god-send for my [email protected] elbows). I might be an outlier, but I don't care if my crown dings my downtube...


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

SHO4CY said:


> Peoples,
> 
> Brand new to the forum. Finally bought a Bluto Lurch (grey 20"). Hoping to get some help here. Put it together last night. There seems to be a decent amount of rubbing on the front disk. It is 100% even rubbing all the way around. No amount of adjustments on either dial gets rid of it.
> 
> Are the mounts of the caliper adjustable? If not how the heck are you supposed to get the disk to not rub? Help!


Iirc you have to install the caliper yourself, do you probably just have it off center with the rotor. Get down to eye level with the rotor so you can see which side its rubbing on, the loosen the caliper bolts enough so that you can move and center the caliper over the rotor. Tighten a bit, recenter, then tighten down. Fine tune with the dial and cable tension.

One other point to make sure of is get that front axle tight. The alignment of the wheel changes as you tighten the axle.


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## SHO4CY (Nov 18, 2016)

jerrduford said:


> Iirc you have to install the caliper yourself, do you probably just have it off center with the rotor. Get down to eye level with the rotor so you can see which side its rubbing on, the loosen the caliper bolts enough so that you can move and center the caliper over the rotor. Tighten a bit, recenter, then tighten down. Fine tune with the dial and cable tension.
> 
> One other point to make sure of is get that front axle tight. The alignment of the wheel changes as you tighten the axle.


Thank you! I will give it a go tonight and see what happens. I'm assuming ideally there is no disk drag? Or is a little ok? Thanks!


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

SHO4CY said:


> Thank you! I will give it a go tonight and see what happens. I'm assuming ideally there is no disk drag? Or is a little ok? Thanks!


That's up for debate I think. I like a firm feeling brake (little travel), but I also like a quiet bike. I set it up as tight as possible with no noise. Sometimes you just have to learn to live with a little noise on discs, especially if wet.

Also, if everything is in alignment and it still rubs, you may just have the cable too tight.


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

SHO4CY,

I like to squeeze the brake to let it align itself to the rotor. 

Start with the caliper bolts tightened. Dial in the brake pads a few clicks, then hold the brake lever firmly. While holding the brake lever, loosen the caliper bolts a half turn or so- just enough so that you can wiggle the caliper around by hand. When you move it, you're flexing the rotor, so don't move it much, just enough to see that it's free from the mount. While STILL holding the brake lever, alternate between the mounting bolts, tightening them slowly. If you give it one big twist, the caliper will almost certainly twist out of alignment. Once the bolts are snug, you can release the brake handle.

There will almost certainly still be brake rub. Dial back the pads until the brake is quiet. I usually run the inboard pad as close as I can without it rubbing, then adjust the touch off point with my outer pad or a cable adjustment.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

baker said:


> Why? To avoid the crown hitting the downtube? In my experience, the Bluto on a pre-bent frame design has been fine (and a god-send for my [email protected] elbows). I might be an outlier, but I don't care if my crown dings my downtube...


You don't know what you're talking about. There is considerable interference on the original Lurch with a Bluto. The impact would break the top of the fork. The angleset is the right way to solve the problem. Go back to the first few pages of this thread, you'll see my posts.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> You don't know what you're talking about. There is considerable interference on the original Lurch with a Bluto. The impact would break the top of the fork. The angleset is the right way to solve the problem. Go back to the first few pages of this thread, you'll see my posts.


Not seeing anything substantial in there except your comment that there is 2mm of interference. Anyway, maybe I've just gotten lucky and not had the impact break the top of the fork.  Here are some Lurch/Bluto photos. Fun stuff!

Flying Dog by Brad Baker, on Flickr

9" of freshies by Brad Baker, on Flickr

The Lurch by Brad Baker, on Flickr

29+ studded tires on the Lurch by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## cfanto (Oct 13, 2010)

Keep in mind the frame sizes... the larger frame sizes may have just enough fork clearance without having to use an angle set.

For example, on some small & medium Specialized frames, they have rubber fork bumpers attached to the lower tube to prevent the pike from slamming into the frame, but my buddy with same exact bike (but in large) doesn't have this bumper - the fork clears fine.


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## Burdman (Nov 9, 2005)

Just pulled the trigger on a Lurch w/Bluto! My first Fattie, so really looking forward to getting it and get out on the trails and in the snow(if we ever get more snow in Colorado?)! Will update post with pics and etc when it arrives!


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## rb_sailorman (Dec 16, 2016)

Just bought my first fat bike. I got the 2017 Lurch in black. I know from follow thread I should get new skewers. What length? Anything else besides the rear dropout bolts?


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

The seat post binder is TRASH. I'm a big dude, so I'm used to slipping seat posts, but this one wouldn't stay put no matter what I tried. I replaced it with a Thompson binder, and it wasn't until I took it off the bike how bad it is. The cam bears in plastic, which rests against a sheet metal cup. on a bike that's otherwise a good value, this part is awful.


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## rb_sailorman (Dec 16, 2016)

Thanks I'll look at that also when it arrives


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## bhc (Sep 27, 2005)

I also bought Lurch this fall, so a 2017 model. It looks like a lot of the problems mentioned have been taken care of. No issues yet, and I have a lot of cold, snowy miles already. I am around 215 pounds. But no issues with slippage on seat post, and no issues with skewers moving. I have been mine own amateur mechanic for 35 years, so just plan on riding it and replacing parts when they wear out.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

I was one of the people who got in on the first generation Lurch pre-order a couple years ago; and didn't receive the 15mm front hub axle caps that were supposed to ship with the bikes so you could mount a Bluto.
At the time of purchase, I didn't see myself getting a Bluto for it, so I didn't pursue Bikesdirect for the axle caps...and now it's probably too late.

So does anyone here in the Lurch lounge have a set they'd be willing to sell? Or does anyone have the part numbers I'd need to order a set? My shop mechanic tried getting in touch with Novatec and they've been a ***** to get any response from...as usual.


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## sven98 (Aug 6, 2011)

I MIGHT still have mine, BD sent them to me after I asked for them. Sold the bike recently but didnt give these to teh new owner. I will check tonight.


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

Spacers for Bluto:
I purchased my Motobecane Lurch from Bikes Direct last earlier this year which I love. I recently purchased a Rock Shock Bluto fork as an upgrade and need spacers to have it fit correctly. Specifically I'm looking for

Novatec hub Info: 3 in 1 D201SB 15x150 adapters. Does anyone know where to get theses?


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

*BD has the spacers*

Email Bikesdirect and tell them what you need. I recently decided to get a carbon fork and need to go to a thru axle. They sent me a paypal charge for $19.95 or so and sent the spacers.

Now I'm just waiting for the 29+ wheelset to come back in stock at BD to use on gravel rides in the spring.


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

Greenbeard said:


> Email Bikesdirect and tell them what you need. I recently decided to get a carbon fork and need to go to a thru axle. They sent me a paypal charge for $19.95 or so and sent the spacers.
> 
> Now I'm just waiting for the 29+ wheelset to come back in stock at BD to use on gravel rides in the spring.


Thanks Greenbeard - great idea, i just assumed they wouldn't be dealing with "after-market" parts. Good luck - hope you don't have to wait too long the for the new wheels.


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

SeaHag said:


> I was one of the people who got in on the first generation Lurch pre-order a couple years ago; and didn't receive the 15mm front hub axle caps that were supposed to ship with the bikes so you could mount a Bluto.
> At the time of purchase, I didn't see myself getting a Bluto for it, so I didn't pursue Bikesdirect for the axle caps...and now it's probably too late.
> 
> So does anyone here in the Lurch lounge have a set they'd be willing to sell? Or does anyone have the part numbers I'd need to order a set? My shop mechanic tried getting in touch with Novatec and they've been a ***** to get any response from...as usual.


SeaHag - I'm in the exact same boat - i just emailed Bikesdirect and they responded very quickly - they are invoicing me for $19 and sending the adapter.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

Reman said:


> SeaHag - I'm in the exact same boat - i just emailed Bikesdirect and they responded very quickly - they are invoicing me for $19 and sending the adapter.


Great to hear...thanks. What was the email address you used? Not sure if I email the same one I did for my broken frame.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

SeaHag said:


> I was one of the people who got in on the first generation Lurch pre-order a couple years ago; and didn't receive the 15mm front hub axle caps that were supposed to ship with the bikes so you could mount a Bluto.
> At the time of purchase, I didn't see myself getting a Bluto for it, so I didn't pursue Bikesdirect for the axle caps...and now it's probably too late.
> 
> So does anyone here in the Lurch lounge have a set they'd be willing to sell? Or does anyone have the part numbers I'd need to order a set? My shop mechanic tried getting in touch with Novatec and they've been a ***** to get any response from...as usual.


Wanna trade? My buddy has the 15mm TA adaptors for bluto, needs the 9mm QR for the stock fork.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> Wanna trade? My buddy has the 15mm TA adaptors for bluto, needs the 9mm QR for the stock fork.


I haven't yet secured the Bluto to make the switch to; but even if I had them, I was thinking of keeping both so I could switch to the rigid fork for bikepacking...figuring the front fork bosses would give me added carrying capacity.


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

SeaHag said:


> Great to hear...thanks. What was the email address you used? Not sure if I email the same one I did for my broken frame.


Just talk to Larry at [email protected]


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## Reman (Aug 16, 2012)

[email protected] - the guy who responded was named Larry - they responded within 30 minutes and sent me a $19 PayPal invoice. The spacers should be delivered in 5-7 business days.


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## Coyotefred (Dec 21, 2016)

*Lurch FS sizing for 34" inseam?*

Hello Lurchers,

Looking to buy myself a Christmas gift, and was hoping for some sizing advice on the Lurch FS with bluto. I'm 6-1, 34" inseam, about 25" torso and arms.

The 20" size is what BD's size guidelines recommend, but I'd prefer the gray, which is now only available in 18" and 22".

I might just stick with the 20" in blue to be safe, but wondering whether I could get away with the 18", maybe with seatpost and/or handlebar/stem mods if needed?

Most of my riding won't be particularly fast/steep/aggressive, but year-round longer rides over pasture/two-track/foothills and some gravel grinding on county roads to get there...

Thanks for your help/advice,


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## Geoff_L (Dec 20, 2016)

With several inches of snow on the ground in North Dakota I've been thinking of getting a fat bike. Surly is certainly the most well known steel fatbike brand but the Lurch looks like a great value. If I'm not mistaken the Lurch has Puggsley like geometry with an update to run 5 inch tires , symmetrical rear end and Bluto capable. Just looking for a fun bike to ride in snow, ride some summer single track and handle bike packing duties. May even setup single speed sometimes.

Have any of you with a Lurch rode any Surlys? Have any comments on how they compare?


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## River19 (Jul 3, 2007)

Just for the record, I'm going on my third winter with my Lurch and I still love it. Heavy? yes. Fun to ride? Hell Yes. My wife has a nice Scott Big Ed and her small has about 4-5 lbs on my steel Lurch but you know what?.......in the snow when it was 7 degrees last weekend and we were playing in fresh snow.......life was good.....


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

Geoff_L said:


> With several inches of snow on the ground in North Dakota I've been thinking of getting a fat bike. Surly is certainly the most well known steel fatbike brand but the Lurch looks like a great value. If I'm not mistaken the Lurch has Puggsley like geometry with an update to run 5 inch tires , symmetrical rear end and Bluto capable. Just looking for a fun bike to ride in snow, ride some summer single track and handle bike packing duties. May even setup single speed sometimes.
> 
> Have any of you with a Lurch rode any Surlys? Have any comments on how they compare?


The Lurch is actually a clone of the old Surly Moonlander. Another board member from our club had a Moonlander which I got to sample on a few rides and influenced me towards purchase of the Lurch. The ride felt very similar; but the Surly products custom butted tubing does make for a lighter frame & fork than Motobecane's Lurch. Even with a couple additional pounds on the bike, the ride is great and I've been completely satisfied with my Lurch. I did run into a warranty issue with a cracked frame recently and they warrantied it with a new frame; so they'll stand behind their product too.


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## rb_sailorman (Dec 16, 2016)

The Axiom Flatliner DLX a friend has it on his.
https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Fatliner-Bike-Rack/dp/B00S2QYNI4



Joyota said:


> Thinking about getting a Lurch, but I want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. From the photos, I don't see any braze-ons on the seat stays. Has anyone mounted a rack other than a seat-post rack?


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

rb_sailorman said:


> The Axiom Flatliner DLX a friend has it on his.
> https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Fatliner-Bike-Rack/dp/B00S2QYNI4


I'm not sure how many pages that quote from*Joyota* goes back, but according to the BD Lurch page:



> Now with rear rack braze-ons.


But the Fatliner works either way.

I expect my Lurch to arrive on or about Tuesday the 27th.


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## Geoff_L (Dec 20, 2016)

*Lurch vs Surly Offerings*

I'm not all that concerned about the weight unless it impacts the way the bike handles. Two pounds heavier than a Moonlander would seem to be a lot for the frame alone but I'm more concerned about the tires and wheels when it comes to weight. I'm leaning towards the Bluto model but the steel fork would definitely be better for bike packing.

Where I live it is so tough to get a test ride on virtually anything. Fargo ND is 100 miles away and the Surly dealer there only had a couple of Pugs on the floor and none in my size. He could build me an Ice Cream Truck with similar specs to a Lurch for over a grand more. Possibly some improvements in frame design over the Lurch but I figure I could strip most of the parts off the Lurch, buy the Surly frame and still have some change in my pocket.

I bought a steel track bike for commuting from BD and have been completely satisfied. Turns out its almost an exact clone of Surly's Steamroller. Whoever BD has making their fames knows what they are doing and providing great value. The bike was also assembled and packaged well.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

SeaHag said:


> The Lurch is actually a clone of the old Surly Moonlander. Another board member from our club had a Moonlander which I got to sample on a few rides and influenced me towards purchase of the Lurch. The ride felt very similar; but the Surly products custom butted tubing does make for a lighter frame & fork than Motobecane's Lurch. Even with a couple additional pounds on the bike, the ride is great and I've been completely satisfied with my Lurch. I did run into a warranty issue with a cracked frame recently and they warrantied it with a new frame; so they'll stand behind their product too.


Did you weigh both frames with all the parts stripped off or are you estimating? The BD site says it uses butted chromoly. I've read the ICT frame is built in a different Taiwan factory called Maxway. Could be that they are made to different specs?



Geoff_L said:


> I'm not all that concerned about the weight unless it impacts the way the bike handles. Two pounds heavier than a Moonlander would seem to be a lot for the frame alone but I'm more concerned about the tires and wheels when it comes to weight. I'm leaning towards the Bluto model but the steel fork would definitely be better for bike packing.
> 
> Where I live it is so tough to get a test ride on virtually anything. Fargo ND is 100 miles away and the Surly dealer there only had a couple of Pugs on the floor and none in my size. He could build me an Ice Cream Truck with similar specs to a Lurch for over a grand more. Possibly some improvements in frame design over the Lurch but I figure I could strip most of the parts off the Lurch, buy the Surly frame and still have some change in my pocket.
> 
> I bought a steel track bike for commuting from BD and have been completely satisfied. Turns out its almost an exact clone of Surly's Steamroller. Whoever BD has making their fames knows what they are doing and providing great value. The bike was also assembled and packaged well.


I've read in a number of places that Kinesis in Taiwan is the factory that makes the motobecane BD bikes. Kinesis industry CO.,.


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## carbuncle (Dec 9, 2005)

It is, and they have been making name-brand bikes for other companies for decades. BD is their way of getting a piece of the pie.


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

The more I've researched into what factories actually build bikes the more impressed I've become with BD's businesses model. My Dad got a Boris two years ago and it was a nice bike. I think the bike industry has become very threatened by the direct to consumer business model. I bought a Framed bike for my wife using the direct to consumer process and it was easy and the bike was super nice. I wouldn't want to be in the local bike shop business but times change. I also think the big name bike companies have been gouging us for years, particularly when the bikes should cost less due to the cheap labor costs in Taiwan and China.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Mmmm...Lurching around in the snow near Keystone

Soda Creek by Brad Baker, on Flickr


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

ak-rider said:


> Did you weigh both frames with all the parts stripped off or are you estimating? The BD site says it uses butted chromoly. I've read the ICT frame is built in a different Taiwan factory called Maxway. Could be that they are made to different specs?
> 
> I've read in a number of places that Kinesis in Taiwan is the factory that makes the motobecane BD bikes. Kinesis industry CO.,.


It was just comparison of the reported frame and fork weights off some websites found google searching. Surly advertises several of their bikes have triple-butted tubing. I doubt the Motobecanes are getting that high a quality tubesets...but maybe they are a little stronger for it??


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## countryboy_mike (Sep 21, 2016)

*Seat Post Clamp.*



EZSnow said:


> The seat post binder is TRASH. I'm a big dude, so I'm used to slipping seat posts, but this one wouldn't stay put no matter what I tried. I replaced it with a Thompson binder, and it wasn't until I took it off the bike how bad it is. The cam bears in plastic, which rests against a sheet metal cup. on a bike that's otherwise a good value, this part is awful.


What size clamp did you replace it with? I am having the same slipping issues and I only weight 165 lbs.

Mike


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## watermonkey (Jun 21, 2011)

I put a Salsa quick release clamp on my Lurch (bike is long gone - hopefully new owner is still having a blast on it). The size that should have worked for a steel frame and the seat post size was a little snug, requiring me to grind off some of the paint and primer to make it fit - after that, it was perfect. I'd take it with to a LBS to test fit instead of buying a clamp online because of this.


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

countryboy_mike said:


> What size clamp did you replace it with? I am having the same slipping issues and I only weight 165 lbs.
> 
> Mike


I got a Thomson bolted clamp- 29.8mm. Fits great. I have only ridden once since then, but it seemed to hold so far. I have a hundred pounds on you.


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## DirtyThirty (Nov 29, 2014)

Been absolutely LOVING my Lurch for the last two years !!

Haven't had one issue with it to date.

I am just now considering a bluto upgrade and need some input from those that have ridden the Lurch both ways. It looks like the length of the bluto raises the head tube up an inch or two, how has this affected the ride/ride position/etc for those that have ridden it both ways? My riding is 80% trail/adventure touring(so it would be locked out) and 20% single track. Do you think it would be worth while to do?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Was hoping to get out in the first real snow storm of the Season here in the Boston area but didn't get more then half a mile from my home before a link on the KMC chain snapped. Very disappointing, ended up going home and getting my Cannondale Trail 2 out and had fun on that instead.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

Finally got a little snow to ride on in Southern Minnesota. This is my LURCH 2.0...Cracked the original first generation frame and got a new Bluto-ready frame replacement. Not much left of the original now except the shifter, derailleur, and front wheel. Everything else was broken and/or upgraded.


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## lateshoe (Jan 20, 2017)

Okay, so I have caught some serious fat bike fever over the past few weeks and after doing my research (including reading this whole thread and most of the sturgis/nighttrain thread) i'm about ready to pull the trigger... but of course i'm hung up on a couple things. 

First the size as it seems to be a common topic. i'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam and i cant seem to decide on whether to get the 16 or 18 bluto. does the bluto fork really have that much of an impact on the standover? some say the lurch runs a little small but if the bluto brings the standover to 32" i fear for my future children. my torso is a lot longer than my legs which makes me lean towards the 16, especially if i want the bluto.

I'm also second guessing if i really need the bluto (mainly because they are sold out of the color i wanted). I dont do a lot of aggressive riding but i do enjoy rocky and rooty single track. I'm planning on using this as my all season ride and i'm wondering if the bluto would be overkill and an additional maintenance issue with the snow and mud.

Kudos to all who have contributed to this thread. I can't wait to post pics when i finally make a real decision... for now i'll have to keep beating on my Fantom Trail i bought for $200 on craigslist.


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## traditiionalist (May 26, 2014)

DirtyThirty said:


> Been absolutely LOVING my Lurch for the last two years !!
> 
> Haven't had one issue with it to date.
> 
> I am just now considering a bluto upgrade and need some input from those that have ridden the Lurch both ways. It looks like the length of the bluto raises the head tube up an inch or two, how has this affected the ride/ride position/etc for those that have ridden it both ways? My riding is 80% trail/adventure touring(so it would be locked out) and 20% single track. Do you think it would be worth while to do?


I really like these orange lurches. They remind me of the old Bridgestone bikes, which happen to be one of my favorite bikes graphic wise.


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## trailville (Jul 24, 2006)

lateshoe said:


> I'm also second guessing if i really need the bluto (mainly because they are sold out of the color i wanted). I dont do a lot of aggressive riding but i do enjoy rocky and rooty single track. I'm planning on using this as my all season ride and i'm wondering if the bluto would be overkill and an additional maintenance issue with the snow and mud.
> 
> Kudos to all who have contributed to this thread. I can't wait to post pics when i finally make a real decision... for now i'll have to keep beating on my Fantom Trail i bought for $200 on craigslist.


If you intend to ride year round I would suggest getting the Bluto. I didn't get the Bluto with mine (mainly because I felt nostalgic about the matching orange steel fork, plus this was my first fat and I really didn't know what I would want to do with it) and realized rather quickly I should have. It's not an issue in the snow, but when I ride dirt I wish I had the Bluto.


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## lateshoe (Jan 20, 2017)

trailville said:


> If you intend to ride year round I would suggest getting the Bluto. I didn't get the Bluto with mine (mainly because I felt nostalgic about the matching orange steel fork, plus this was my first fat and I really didn't know what I would want to do with it) and realized rather quickly I should have. It's not an issue in the snow, but when I ride dirt I wish I had the Bluto.


Just pulled the trigger on a bright yellow lurch w/ bluto. I originally wanted blue which was sold out but the more i looked at the yellow the more it grew on me. now i'm liking it as much if not more than the blue. it's an outrageous bike so why not have an outrageous color? reminds me of the 'top banana' mopars of the early 70s.

-update- just got my lurch. the pics on the website/web don't do the yellow paint justice. it's stunning in person. couldn't be happier. haven't had a chance to put the bike together but i took it out of the box and everything looks good not even a scratch that i could fine. even the box was in great shape. i feel like a kid on christmas!


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## sumeri28 (Jan 21, 2016)

*2015 Bluto Lurch*

Not sure if this is allowed, anyone want to buy my Lurch? 18" 
Probably won't ship it, $850. North Central PA

Slightly bent Speed Dial lever(left) but have originals
Small piece of front skewer plastic broke (nbd)
Tires have some sidewall wear due to rocks, doesn't affect anything
No pedals
Lock on grips (not shown)


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## lateshoe (Jan 20, 2017)

Finally had time to put my lurch together. All that's left is to get the brakes dialed in and cut down the seat tube (the thing is a mile long) and she's ready to go. I have tomorrow off so i'm hoping to be able to hit the trails. Just got a few inches of fresh powder and there's more on the way today.  Can't wait to get lurchin' around the Finger Lakes! Very impressed with this bike.

Sizing input bc i know it comes up a lot: I am just shy of 5'10" with a 30.5" inseam and the 18 fits great. Stand over w the bluto leaves about 1/2 inch or so to spare. Felt a bit stretched out due to my shorter arms but a 60mm stem fixed that. Large would have been too big, small too small, glad i went with the med.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Nice lurch, I have the same model. Had fun with it out it the snow in Mass. today.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> Wanna trade? My buddy has the 15mm TA adaptors for bluto, needs the 9mm QR for the stock fork.


Hey Nurse Ben. If your buddy is still looking for the 9mm QR adapters, I should have them around here somewhere. Shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can find them and get them off in the mail to you. Sorry I didn't see this earlier...


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## countryboy_mike (Sep 21, 2016)

*Seat Post Slipage*



countryboy_mike said:


> What size clamp did you replace it with? I am having the same slipping issues and I only weight 165 lbs.
> 
> Mike


For those interested I put a 30.0mm Salsa Lip-Locker on the bike and haven't had any slipping issues since.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

Duh ... can someone remind me whether or not my 2016 Lurch was shipped with rear hub spacers? I had a lengthy interruption half way into changing wheelsets during which one of my dear family members "tidied up" my work area. Now after mounting my new 29er wheels (the ones from BD which have the same hub as the stock wheelset), I cannot get hardly any gap at all between the outside brake pad and the rotor on the rear wheel even when fully retracted (stock rotor and BB7 brakes). Now I'm wondering whether or not there were spacers on the hub of the rear Mulefut wheel when I removed it. If there were any spacers, they have been "misplaced".

So before I start trying other adjustments (I also reversed the dropout adjustment screw while I had the wheel off), I thought I'd ask this embarrassing question.


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

BikesFloat said:


> Duh ... can someone remind me whether or not my 2016 Lurch was shipped with rear hub spacers? I had a lengthy interruption half way into changing wheelsets during which one of my dear family members "tidied up" my work area. Now after mounting my new 29er wheels (the ones from BD which have the same hub as the stock wheelset), I cannot get hardly any gap at all between the outside brake pad and the rotor on the rear wheel even when fully retracted (stock rotor and BB7 brakes). Now I'm wondering whether or not there were spacers on the hub of the rear Mulefut wheel when I removed it. If there were any spacers, they have been "misplaced".
> 
> So before I start trying other adjustments (I also reversed the dropout adjustment screw while I had the wheel off), I thought I'd ask this embarrassing question.


If you were missing 10mm hub spacers, you'd know it because there's no way the wheel would sit in the frame. I don't have my Lurch anymore, but I don't think the QR version needed extender endcaps for the novatec hubs.

I've had the problem you're describing, though, with other bikes. If it's rubbing towards the outside, loosen up the QR a touch if it's really tight. If that doesn't fix, you may need to re-align the calipres up a bit (not just the pads). Different hubs always line up differently. I think it's pretty common to have to do some brake adjustments after swapping wheelsets.

If it's rubbing towards the inside, then tighten the QR, or consider adding spacers to the inside of the rotor where the bolts affix (moving the rotor further from the hub).

Hope this helps!


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## mehlertmj (Jan 12, 2017)

Any tall riders on here, 6'6" and above? I'm looking at the Lurch and wondering what the fit is like. I know it's advertised to 6'8", but how does the geometry feel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## EZSnow (Aug 27, 2011)

mehlertmj said:


> Any tall riders on here, 6'6" and above? I'm looking at the Lurch and wondering what the fit is like. I know it's advertised to 6'8", but how does the geometry feel?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm at 6'4", which I know wasn't your question, but I had to shorten my 22" up a bit to make it fit right. I swapped the stem down to 90mm, but added a slightly wider bar with some rise in it. I got rid of the (bent) offset seatpost for a straight post. I wouldn't change what size I bought, but if there is some room to size down a couple inches, there's room to size up a little, too.


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## Mockpo (Jan 5, 2015)

EZSnow said:


> I'm at 6'4", which I know wasn't your question, but I had to shorten my 22" up a bit to make it fit right. I swapped the stem down to 90mm, but added a slightly wider bar with some rise in it. I got rid of the (bent) offset seatpost for a straight post. I wouldn't change what size I bought, but if there is some room to size down a couple inches, there's room to size up a little, too.


Totally agree and did the same things, though I went with a Richey adjustable stem as I wasn't sure which size I needed. Wider handlebars and straight seat post makes this bike fit just right. Got the longer Thompson post and it really sits up quite a ways but I have long legs so I needed the largest frame. No regrets buying this bike.


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## ckcoolic (Feb 3, 2008)

I was one of the 2014 pre-orders and have been riding my Lurch year round for over 2 years now. Fantastic bike! After browsing this thread, I checked my dropout screws and they were bent, so I replaced them. The seatpost is garbage and was replaced after only a handful of rides. The cockpit was also too flexy and I upgraded that with a sturdier stem and handlebars. These items are pretty much standard to get replaced anyway reguardless of bike, so overall, this has been a fantastic bike.

I recently found a screamin deal on a 100mm Bluto on eBay that I couldnt pass up. Larry at BikesDirect sent me the front hub adapters at a great price and they also came with a complementary flask (thanks!). Overall, favorite bike in my stable!

IMG_2930 by ckcoolic, on Flickr

IMG_2929 by ckcoolic, on Flickr


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

I thought folks might be interested in seeing my Lurch with the 29er+ wheel set BD is selling. If you have the Bluto or carbon fork with the through hub, the front wheel will work out of the box. Otherwise, the wheels come with a QR converter for the rear wheel but none for the front. BD said I could order one from Novatec, but a phone call to them received no response. I found one from MTB Tools for 21.99 and it seems to work well. Clearance is mostly quite good on the wheels. The only tight spot is where the front derailleur cable is cable tied to the raised eyelet on the frame. I'm thinking of moving the cable off the top of the eyelet and maybe eventually filing the eyelet off. Anyone have experience with doing that?
So far the wheels are working well and I like having the 3 inch tires for general trail riding. The wheels are about 3 lbs. lighter overall than the Mulefuts (still running tubes in both).


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

EricColo said:


> So far the wheels are working well and I like having the 3 inch tires for general trail riding. The wheels are about 3 lbs. lighter overall than the Mulefuts (still running tubes in both).


How are you finding the wheels, do they alter the bike geometry at all? Thinking i should invest in a pair as a cheaper alternative to that n+1 bike I've been considering


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

haymaker said:


> How are you finding the wheels, do they alter the bike geometry at all? Thinking i should invest in a pair as a cheaper alternative to that n+1 bike I've been considering


I can't say I've noticed a change to geometry. Because the tires are smaller than the 4.8s on the Mulefut rims, it mostly offsets the taller rim size. My standover is still about the same. Probably less than 1/2 inch change.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

EricColo said:


> I can't say I've noticed a change to geometry


Thanks, that's good to hear. I see the 3inch 29+ wheelset on sale on BD right for 250 bucks for the lurch, they also have a 3.25inch 2.75+ set with same front and back hubs.

Now I'm unsure of which to get.


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

After I ordered the 29+, I thought about the 27.5+ and wondered which would work out best. As I mentioned, the 29+ tire does have tight clearance with the front derailleur cable. Seems like the 27.5+ might also be a little more lively for trail riding. They probably are a little lighter as well.
Part of my reason for buying the Lurch is to tour off-road. I'm looking at doing a section of the Great Divide route, and having done a section previously, know it will be a mix of forest service type dirt/gravel roads and some pavement. I figured the 29s would roll all those surfaces nicely with a load. A friend who I road the previous section with, and who has since ridden another section, did them on a Pugsley and that worked well.


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

EricColo said:


> After I ordered the 29+, I thought about the 27.5+ and wondered which would work out best. As I mentioned, the 29+ tire does have tight clearance with the front derailleur cable. Seems like the 27.5+ might also be a little more lively for trail riding. They probably are a little lighter as well.
> Part of my reason for buying the Lurch is to tour off-road. I'm looking at doing a section of the Great Divide route, and having done a section previously, know it will be a mix of forest service type dirt/gravel roads and some pavement. I figured the 29s would roll all those surfaces nicely with a load. A friend who I road the previous section with, and who has since ridden another section, did them on a Pugsley and that worked well.


Eric, What kind of pressures do you run on the WTB 29 wheelset and how have they been? They're a great price (can't even get the hubs to build my own for 250), but curious if the i25 rims are too narrow. Have you gone tubeless yet? Any thoughts are appreciated!


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

I've been running about 12 psi, mostly doing mountain trail riding, lots of rocks and some drops, and a little worried about pinch flats from running less. Would have liked to tried it on some sand riding in Moab but decided I didn't want to carry two bikes.
For anything bigger than the 3" tires the rims are likely narrow, as you suggest. The 3s seem to inflate to a good shape.
I've decided against tubeless for now. I wouldn't mind losing the weight but didn't want them to set over the winter with sealant drying. This isn't my regular ride, so in general I'm a bit concerned about the sealant just coagulating in the bottom of the tire.
I reached the same conclusion on the wheel price and figured I'd get more riding out of having the two different sized sets of wheels. Haven't had much snow yet in Denver to really try out the fatties. Hoping to get up into the mountains in the next few weeks.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

I'd been thinking of getting a new 29er FS bike but instead just ordered the 29+ WTB wheels for my lurch from BD, I already got spare 180 and 160 rotors. Now just gotta order the cassette and should be ready to ride on them as soon as they arrive until the snow arrives in New England. Hoping that makes the bike a little snappier as fun as it is to ride in any conditions I feel like I'll get more out of the bike with these wheels 3 out of the 4 seasons of the year.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Would love to see more photos of peoples lurches out in the wild, here's mine pretty much as spec, only had to replace a broken chain so far. Not had any issues with the handlebar, seat post or drop screws as mentioned by others and I'm a 210lb+ guy, getting lighter each ride tho 









I've since taken off the reflectors, will be adding a light for some night riding that I got on order, and of course the 29+ wheels once they arrive.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Got out to the local trails in the Boston area today before it got dark and had them pretty much all to myself.









I realized pretty quickly I need to adjust the tire pressure as I was running too high and not getting the tank like traction i did earlier in the year. Also I'm out of practice at hauling all this weight up hill having been riding my hardtail trail bike all season. Looking forward to the bad weather


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

My 29er wheelset set for my Lurch came from BikesDirect this afternoon, the box was a bit beatup and wheels will definitely need truing but I figured that would be needed anyway.
























Took me over an hour to get them on, having not initially realized the rear hub needed to be taken apart and the axle on the wheels replaced with the one sent separately, not sure why this wasnt attached by default?? But anyways got the axle swapped and now have the wheels mounted on the bike, too dark to get out and try it today but looking forward to trying them this weekend. For the most part the brakepads dont catch the new rotors and the wheels spin freely, but as I said will need truing at some point.


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

I've been on the fence of buying a fat bike, and which to get. Finally settled on a lurch with a bluto, but damn I wish I could get it in purple 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jerrduford (Sep 14, 2015)

monkey50 said:


> I've been on the fence of buying a fat bike, and which to get. Finally settled on a lurch with a bluto, but damn I wish I could get it in purple


Heard that. I don't have my lurch anymore, but I really wish the purple was available with a bluto. I really liked the metallic gray that I had. Still kind of regret selling it, but I like my ice cream truck a lot too.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

haymaker said:


> I'd been thinking of getting a new 29er FS bike but instead just ordered the 29+ WTB wheels for my lurch from BD, I already got spare 180 and 160 rotors. Now just gotta order the cassette


What cassette did you get for your 29er wheelset? After only one round trip of swapping the stock cassette between the mulefuts and i25s, I'm ready to go plug and play.

I was suspicious about the 3" Trax Fatties working with the i25 rims, so I put a set of 2.5" Surely Extraterrestrials on mine. Are you guys noticing a need to run higher pressures than you'd like in order to avoid squirm/roll with the Trax Fatties?


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

It's here and mostly built.. can't wait til tomorrow to ride it

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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

BikesFloat said:


> What cassette did you get for your 29er wheelset? After only one round trip of swapping the stock cassette between the mulefuts and i25s, I'm ready to go plug and play.
> 
> I was suspicious about the 3" Trax Fatties working with the i25 rims, so I put a set of 2.5" Surely Extraterrestrials on mine. Are you guys noticing a need to run higher pressures than you'd like in order to avoid squirm/roll with the Trax Fatties?


I bid and won a auction for a Shimano CS-HG62 MTB Cassette 11-36T 10-Speed and got one for 30 bucks, seems to be working well.

I've not noticed any squirming, running them the pressure they came in from BD but i've only ridden them once, I've put the true fat wheelset back on to enjoy the snow here in New England.


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

BikesFloat said:


> What cassette did you get for your 29er wheelset? After only one round trip of swapping the stock cassette between the mulefuts and i25s, I'm ready to go plug and play.
> 
> I was suspicious about the 3" Trax Fatties working with the i25 rims, so I put a set of 2.5" Surely Extraterrestrials on mine. Are you guys noticing a need to run higher pressures than you'd like in order to avoid squirm/roll with the Trax Fatties?


I haven't noticed a problem with the 3" squirming. I've been running about 12-15 psi. The trails I've been riding are fairly rough, so I didn't want to go lower for fear of pinch flats (still running tubes).


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

BikesFloat said:


> What cassette did you get for your 29er wheelset? After only one round trip of swapping the stock cassette between the mulefuts and i25s, I'm ready to go plug and play.
> 
> I was suspicious about the 3" Trax Fatties working with the i25 rims, so I put a set of 2.5" Surely Extraterrestrials on mine. Are you guys noticing a need to run higher pressures than you'd like in order to avoid squirm/roll with the Trax Fatties?


I have been ridding the 3" Trax Fatties since last spring when I got the wheels. I have ridden almost everything with these tires; gravel, pavement, hard dirt, technical rocky rooty single track, mud, and snow. pressures were mostly set by feel but probably ranged from about 12-20psi. I don't have a tone of MTB experience, but did not notice much squirm (if I did it was probably at lower pressures on hard surfaces). The Trax Fattie is a very fast rolling tire that still has plenty of grip on gravel, dirt, rocks, and roots. The tires are fast in light to moderate snow, but may require more skill to stay upright. As of now I'm designating the Trax Fatties as my "All Season tires" and I'm getting some studded Snowshoe XL tires for snow and ice. the Trax Fatties are not the best tire for any situation, but they work better than expected for most situations.


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## countryboy_mike (Sep 21, 2016)

haymaker said:


> Would love to see more photos of peoples lurches out in the wild, here's mine pretty much as spec, only had to replace a broken chain so far. Not had any issues with the handlebar, seat post or drop screws as mentioned by others and I'm a 210lb+ guy, getting lighter each ride tho
> 
> View attachment 1170114
> 
> ...










Here is Lurch and I in the "Badlands" of Island Lake Rec Area in Brighton MI. This is our "the trails are **** but still want to ride" place to go. Hundreds or acres of sand dunes, two track, rock piles and some singletrack.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Bumping this because I just ordered a rigid Lurch this morning. Can anyone tell me if the newer rigid Lurches still use a front hub that can convert from 9 mm to 15 mm? 

Very stoked on this bike after shopping used for a while. I plan on going 1x11 and swapping out the cockpit for Race Face 70 mm stem and 785 mm bar. Other than that, this things is nicely spec'd to roll right outta the box.


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

The Novatec hubs can be used with QR or thru-axle. The Lurch only comes with the QR parts so you will need to email Bikes Direct and ask for the spacers to use the front hub with a thru axle (about $20). When you get them remove the QR end caps and put the thru-Axle end caps on. I did this with when I installed a carbon fork.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Greenbeard said:


> The Novatec hubs can be used with QR or thru-axle. The Lurch only comes with the QR parts so you will need to email Bikes Direct and ask for the spacers to use the front hub with a thru axle (about $20). When you get them remove the QR end caps and put the thru-Axle end caps on. I did this with when I installed a carbon fork.


Thanks for the info. I decided to scrap the rigid fork and cough up the extra $200 for the Bluto. I realized I can't use my roof rack adapter with a 9 x 150 mm drop outs. Kind odd they use a QR on such a wide axle. Oh well, Bluto here I come.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

My new Lurch FS showed up yesterday and I gotta say I'm impressed. I was skeptical about buying from Bike Direct but it exceeded my expectations. The bike was packaged nicely and mostly assembled. Wheels and rotors were true, tires were seated and the fork was installed. It was a breeze getting it together and swapping out a bunch of parts.

The damn thing is heavy, (which I expected) so I swapped some parts out to shed a little weight:

2x10 GX drivetrain swapped for a 1x11 GX drivetrain
OEM bars, stem, seatpost swapped for lighter Race Face bar, stem, seatpost
tubeless conversion

Rain and lack of daylight will push my first first ride back to a few days but I'm looking forward to getting it in the snow.


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

Ive had mine for a few weeks and did a 1x front setup too and also scrapped all the stock alloy parts for carbon pieces, I’m guessing it saves 1.5-2lbs, im also going tubeless, hope to do that tonight, my orange goo and stems showed up last night. 
Even riding it in stock trim it carries its substantial weight very well and handles impressively, but I’m pretty excited to see what the reduction in rotating mass does for it!


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## brockcot (Apr 19, 2010)

Hey guys. Anyone have any luck putting Eagle on their Lurch? I have a 2016 FS, and I have an extra GX Eagle shifter and derailleur that I want to throw on the fattie. I currently have a 1x10 setup with a OneUp 42t. It has an standard free hub on the Novatec D202SB-QR-S4S. I need to put on the XD driver on it to make it fit. Can anyone tell me if Novatec makes those drivers for my hub? I have tried reaching out to them a few times with 0 response. HELP.


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

I’m not sure, but if you hit a snag and can’t get it done, the sunrace 11-42 cassette is direct fit and works terrific. 


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

brockcot said:


> Hey guys. Anyone have any luck putting Eagle on their Lurch? I have a 2016 FS, and I have an extra GX Eagle shifter and derailleur that I want to throw on the fattie. I currently have a 1x10 setup with a OneUp 42t. It has an standard free hub on the Novatec D202SB-QR-S4S. I need to put on the XD driver on it to make it fit. Can anyone tell me if Novatec makes those drivers for my hub? I have tried reaching out to them a few times with 0 response. HELP.


Sun Race makes 12 speed cassette that fits a standard Shimano driver. Problem solved.

http://www.sunrace.com/en/products/detail/csmz90

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## mehlertmj (Jan 12, 2017)

How are the BD 29+ and 27+ wheelsets holding up? I’m on the fence on which one to pick for my ICT. Does it mess with geometry much? How are the hubs? Does anyone plan on upgrading them or are you just happy with the $250 and you’re going to run them until they break?


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## OttaCee (Jul 24, 2013)

VTSession said:


> My new Lurch FS showed up yesterday and I gotta say I'm impressed. I was skeptical about buying from Bike Direct but it exceeded my expectations. The bike was packaged nicely and mostly assembled. Wheels and rotors were true, tires were seated and the fork was installed.  It was a breeze getting it together and swapping out a bunch of parts.
> 
> The damn thing is heavy, (which I expected) so I swapped some parts out to shed a little weight:
> 
> ...


Matt - I'll be interested in your report on how your like the bike and changes. There's one for sale locally and its pretty enticing. You going to make it down to Wompatuck for SNOWPATUCK in 2 weeks?


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## JeepRage (Oct 7, 2017)

OttaCee said:


> Matt - I'll be interested in your report on how your like the bike and changes. There's one for sale locally and its pretty enticing. You going to make it down to Wompatuck for SNOWPATUCK in 2 weeks?


Local MA riders? I was there yesterday.


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

mehlertmj said:


> How are the BD 29+ and 27+ wheelsets holding up? I'm on the fence on which one to pick for my ICT. Does it mess with geometry much? How are the hubs? Does anyone plan on upgrading them or are you just happy with the $250 and you're going to run them until they break?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the 29+ wheelset and I love it. I measured the 29+ wheels/tires to be about 3/4 inch taller than my 4.25 Snowshoes mounted to the 80 mm mulefut rims. The bike is noticeably taller with the 29+ wheelset. I think the 29+ is closer diameter to ~5 inch fat tire and the 27+ is probably closer to 4 inch fat tire diameter. The tires roll fast and have served me well on gravel, grass, dirt, technical rocky terrain, and even some light snow. I have had no problems with the hubs they are the exact same hubs on my mulefut wheels. The hubs come set up for thru axle front and rear but also has the parts to go QR on the rear. The front hubs need different spacers on the ends to work with QR. I am happy with the 29+ wheelset and the only thing I have thought about changing are the tires, but these are serving me pretty well so far.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

OttaCee said:


> Matt - I'll be interested in your report on how your like the bike and changes. There's one for sale locally and its pretty enticing. You going to make it down to Wompatuck for SNOWPATUCK in 2 weeks?


I hope to make more weight saving upgrades and will certainly update as that happens. I'd love to make to SnowPatuck in a few weeks but living in Vermont now makes it harder to get down that way these days.

I really miss riding Wompy, I hope to get a ride in there when I'm down visiting family at the end of Feb.


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## brockcot (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks VTSession! That is the solution to my problem. I was able to get in touch with Novatec, and they are currently working on a XD driver for the 202 hub, but nothing is finished yet. They expect to have the driver out mid 2018. For now, I ordered the Sunrace you recommended. It looks like a perfect solution for me. I may be sacrificing the 10t, but its for my Lurch; I am more worried about low end, not high.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

brockcot said:


> Thanks VTSession! That is the solution to my problem. I was able to get in touch with Novatec, and they are currently working on a XD driver for the 202 hub, but nothing is finished yet. They expect to have the driver out mid 2018. For now, I ordered the Sunrace you recommended. It looks like a perfect solution for me. I may be sacrificing the 10t, but its for my Lurch; I am more worried about low end, not high.


Glad I could help. I've got SunRace wide range cassettes on 2 of my bikes and they're great parts for the money. You'll also love the low end gears on the fat bike, makes snowy climbs just a little easier.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

So what's the Lurch seat post collar/clamp size? Website says 29.8 so I got a Thomson in that size and its way too small. What gives? The QR one just won't clamp tight enough.


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

31.8 for the forte clamp from performance, they (performance bike) offer 2 sizes and it’s the smaller one. I tried ordering a 29 clamp off amazon and had the same results, I actually took the stock q/r clamp into the shop and matched it up


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

What’s everyone using for a rear wheel skewer? I’ve got the stock one cranked crazy tight and I still keep kicking the wheel out of alignment at the worst possible time 


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

monkey50 said:


> What's everyone using for a rear wheel skewer? I've got the stock one cranked crazy tight and I still keep kicking the wheel out of alignment at the worst possible time
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3PQ4FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## monkey50 (May 12, 2009)

Thanks!


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Is there any way to use a stiffer, 10 mm axle on the Lurch? I recall being able to do this on the last bike I had with a 9 mm QR.


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## brockcot (Apr 19, 2010)

*Finished product (Eagle on my Lurch FS)*

Attached are the final photos of my Lurch with Sram Eagle GX, courtesy of the Sun Race 12 Speed cassette. Stoked to try it out. Last item is to throw on the Eagle chain (tonight after work).






















VTSession said:


> Sun Race makes 12 speed cassette that fits a standard Shimano driver. Problem solved.
> 
> SunRace | CSMZ90
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dtrimpi87 (Mar 19, 2018)

New Lurch owner here. 2018 Lurch FS. I upgraded from a Bullseye Monster LTD. Just received it Saturday and put 10 miles on it. Loving it so far. This is the 22" frame model.


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## Utahbikemike (Sep 11, 2014)

BikesFloat said:


> What cassette did you get for your 29er wheelset? After only one round trip of swapping the stock cassette between the mulefuts and i25s, I'm ready to go plug and play.
> 
> I was suspicious about the 3" Trax Fatties working with the i25 rims, so I put a set of 2.5" Surely Extraterrestrials on mine. Are you guys noticing a need to run higher pressures than you'd like in order to avoid squirm/roll with the Trax Fatties?


I had a set of the 29+ wheels and tried them. They were unrideable imo. The 25mm internal rims were way too narrow. You had to run over 30 psi to keep them from folding over the rims and that kind of defeats the purpose of having plus tires.

The wtb rims were rebuilt onto my surly commuter where they fit my 38c tires perfectly. They're nice rims but the sizing is all wrong for plus tires. You'd want a 40-60mm rim for a 3" tire.

I tried them twice and realized I'd just rather ride the 5" tires. I might rebuild the hubs with some 27.5 fat rims and try that


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Still enjoying riding my lurch with the 29+ wheelset around the Boston area through the extended winter season.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Utahbikemike said:


> I had a set of the 29+ wheels and tried them. They were unrideable imo. The 25mm internal rims were way too narrow. You had to run over 30 psi to keep them from folding over the rims and that kind of defeats the purpose of having plus tires.
> 
> The wtb rims were rebuilt onto my surly commuter where they fit my 38c tires perfectly. They're nice rims but the sizing is all wrong for plus tires. You'd want a 40-60mm rim for a 3" tire.
> 
> I tried them twice and realized I'd just rather ride the 5" tires. I might rebuild the hubs with some 27.5 fat rims and try that


I do know what you mean about the tire pressure, I am running at close to 25-30psi myself, but do still prefer to run them to the full fats for distance treks, but the fats are more fun in the snow, on the beach and in general. I wouldnt say the 29+ are unusable, I'm enjoying having the option of swapping back and forth, see my previous post.


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## EricColo (Oct 24, 2017)

*29+ tire pressure*



haymaker said:


> I do know what you mean about the tire pressure, I am running at close to 25-30psi myself, but do still prefer to run them to the full fats for distance treks, but the fats are more fun in the snow, on the beach and in general. I wouldnt say the 29+ are unusable, I'm enjoying having the option of swapping back and forth, see my previous post.


Just wanted to give a different perspective. I've been running mine with about 15 psi with no problems. I weigh about 175. I've even run them a little lower, maybe 12 psi, but that does make me a little nervous about pinch flats.


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## pasdell (Oct 17, 2016)

*Clydeworthy Lurch?*



Dtrimpi87 said:


> New Lurch owner here. 2018 Lurch FS. I upgraded from a Bullseye Monster LTD. Just received it Saturday and put 10 miles on it. Loving it so far. This is the 22" frame model.


Hey man, how big are ya? I'm 6'7'' here with a 34in inseam and I've been eyeing a 22'' Lurch for a while now. How's she fit and ride?


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## G-Force2016 (Apr 2, 2018)

Hey! New to fat biking and this forum. Assembled 2 Lurch FS bikes from BD. Did 1st ride with wifey along lakeshore past weekend -- all good. Then I noticed her bike's rear wheel is out of dish. Only learned that terminology after online research last couple days. My bike has rear wheel centered between frame. Her bike has tire just 5mm from frame on brake side. I'm a do-it-yourselfer, but no bike mechanic. Have watched the vids, but don't think I should be attempting a fix on a new bike. Sooo, first, is this a problem to be concerned about? Second, if it is a concern, should BD make good on it? Many thanks for your thoughts on this! Mike


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## BlueCheesehead (Jul 17, 2010)

G-Force2016 said:


> Hey! New to fat biking and this forum. Assembled 2 Lurch FS bikes from BD. Did 1st ride with wifey along lakeshore past weekend -- all good. Then I noticed her bike's rear wheel is out of dish. Only learned that terminology after online research last couple days. My bike has rear wheel centered between frame. Her bike has tire just 5mm from frame on brake side. I'm a do-it-yourselfer, but no bike mechanic. Have watched the vids, but don't think I should be attempting a fix on a new bike. Sooo, first, is this a problem to be concerned about? Second, if it is a concern, should BD make good on it? Many thanks for your thoughts on this! Mike


1.) Make sure her quick release axle is fully seated in the dropout.
2.) Try swapping wheels with your wife's bike. You need to determine if the problem is with the wheel's dish or if it is an issue with the frame. If her wheel sits centered in your frame, then the issue is with her frame.
3.) BD should correct the problem...assuming its not fixed by #1 above.


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## G-Force2016 (Apr 2, 2018)

Geez, it was as simple as the axle not fully seated in the dropout. I feel dumb even posting about it. Thanks so much!


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## G-Force2016 (Apr 2, 2018)

I am 6'2" with a 33" inseam. I have maybe 1" of stand over space on my 20" when wearing a light winter boot. Arms are 36" and it's just right for me with seat in back position. BD site says Bluto adds 1".


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## G-Force2016 (Apr 2, 2018)

*New Bike Pics*

Hey Lurchers! Pics of FS model on my property from 2 weeks ago. Road Lake Ontario shoreline for ~5.5 miles last weekend -- AWESOME!!


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## G-Force2016 (Apr 2, 2018)

And my better half (not the dog ) showing-off her new toy. She LOVES it!


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Great to see some new Lurch pics on the thread, keep them coming 

Here's mine from my first day back on the trails this season, great to be back out there in the wild, even if it is cold, wet and windy as hell with trees down everywhere!


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

G-Force2016 said:


> I am 6'2" with a 33" inseam. I have maybe 1" of stand over space on my 20" when wearing a light winter boot. Arms are 36" and it's just right for me with seat in back position. BD site says Bluto adds 1".


The Lurch is a tall bike for sure, I also got the 20" am 6' with 31" inseam and have the same crotch clearance issues as you, it's even worse with the 29+ tires, i think it has added another inch to the height. A very high riding bike, i need to rebuild up my confidence on the trails being this high off the ground for sure!


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## delock (Oct 23, 2015)

I recently picked up a set of Borealis fat bike wheels with surly bud and lou tires.

What parts do I need to make them plug and play similar to the factory wheels?

I have currently Vee Apache on my current wheels for urban riding.


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## delock (Oct 23, 2015)

*Wheel set parts advice needed*

I recently picked up a set of Borealis fat bike wheels with surly bud and lou tires.

What parts do I need to make them plug and play similar to the factory wheels?

I have currently Vee Apache on my current wheels for urban riding.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

delock said:


> I recently picked up a set of Borealis fat bike wheels with surly bud and lou tires.
> 
> What parts do I need to make them plug and play similar to the factory wheels?
> 
> I have currently Vee Apache on my current wheels for urban riding.


If they are the same width hub set with quick release skewers, they should slide right into your drops. If you didn't make sure to by the right size hub spacing, you may still be able to use them with some adaptor caps to convert from through axle to quick release in the proper width.


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## CarlSlin (Jul 15, 2018)

*Badlands*



countryboy_mike said:


> View attachment 1177278
> 
> Here is Lurch and I in the "Badlands" of Island Lake Rec Area in Brighton MI. This is our "the trails are **** but still want to ride" place to go. Hundreds or acres of sand dunes, two track, rock piles and some singletrack.
















Use the 3 Winter Access (WA) points to avoid damaging the Blue trail.
Enjoy Island Lake Badlands while you can before they close it off in the near future.


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## CarlSlin (Jul 15, 2018)

Tall Riders Note: I'm 6'7" with long legs. Ordered the biggest frame in Jan 2015. To keep handlebar height even with seat height, used about a 2 1/2" riser stem. Immediately destroyed the stock seat post, so bought a Thompson bent post. 

Bent Rear Axle Drop Screws Fix: Bent the rear axle drop screws, so cut, reversed them to secure 1/4" fabricated spacer blocks. You can cut off bent screws with a 1/8" round tile hacksaw blade while still bent in the fame. Bought a quality axle QR. See early Lurch posts. 

Now it's a fantastic well fitting bike with many miles!


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

So I have the 29+ wheelset on my lurch and was wondering due to the height of 29+ wheels and the squishiness of them in the rims would I be able to get away with putting normal 29 2.4s on these instead of the trax fatty 2.9 3s? I think there's still enough BB clearance to get away with it.


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

haymaker said:


> So I have the 29+ wheelset on my lurch and was wondering due to the height of 29+ wheels and the squishiness of them in the rims would I be able to get away with putting normal 29 2.4s on these instead of the trax fatty 2.9 3s? I think there's still enough BB clearance to get away with it.


I have been using 2.1 thunder burts for gravel and some trail riding with no problems. I have had a pedal strike or two on high spots, but I'm not the only one hitting in those spots.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Greenbeard said:


> I have been using 2.1 thunder burts for gravel and some trail riding with no problems. I have had a pedal strike or two on high spots, but I'm not the only one hitting in those spots.


Awesome thanks for the feedback! I just ordered two Continental Trail King II 2.4 , will try setting them up tubeless with the WTB i25 rims, looking forward to a more snappy feeling bike until the bad weather returns.


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## Greenbeard (Dec 19, 2016)

haymaker said:


> Awesome thanks for the feedback! I just ordered two Continental Trail King II 2.4 , will try setting them up tubeless with the WTB i25 rims, looking forward to a more snappy feeling bike until the bad weather returns.


I used the WTB tubless tape for the i25 (30mm I think) and had no issues setting up tubless with the thuder burts.


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

Greenbeard said:


> I used the WTB tubless tape for the i25 (30mm I think) and had no issues setting up tubless with the thuder burts.


Yeah Just realized tonight that I would need the rim tape after taking the trax fatty tires off the wtb rims and seeing the inadequacy of the tape that was in there with the tubes. So ordered some of the width u mentioned after double checking on the WTB site. Hoping the trail kings are as easy as your thunderburts were!


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

*29er wheels on the Lurch*

Managed to get the new Trail Kings setup on the WTB rims and ready to ride, just waiting for the heat and humidity in New England to cool later this week! Looking forward to a less squishy ride vs the Trax Fatties from BD.


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## BikesFloat (Jul 27, 2015)

haymaker said:


> So I have the 29+ wheelset on my lurch and was wondering due to the height of 29+ wheels and the squishiness of them in the rims would I be able to get away with putting normal 29 2.4s on these instead of the trax fatty 2.9 3s? I think there's still enough BB clearance to get away with it.


I'm a full-time traveler, so the Lurch is my only ride. I run a set of Geax Tatoo 29 x 2.3s with my BD 29er wheelset for pavement and groomed bike paths. I'm content with the fit and feel.


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## mehlertmj (Jan 12, 2017)

I see BD no longer has the Lurch on their website. It kind of makes me sad. I’ve always wanted one, but when I was going to buy one I found a screaming deal on an Ice Cream Truck that I couldn’t pass up. 


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

I'm sure this was covered but searching the thread turned up tons of results.

Any luck setting up the stock Maxxis tire tubeless with the existing Mulefat rims? I'm pretty sure the OEM Minions are not tubeless ready according to Maxxis but I figured someone was able to make it happen.


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## Cerpss (Sep 13, 2015)

VTSession said:


> I'm sure this was covered but searching the thread turned up tons of results.
> 
> Any luck setting up the stock Maxxis tire tubeless with the existing Mulefat rims? I'm pretty sure the OEM Minions are not tubeless ready according to Maxxis but I figured someone was able to make it happen.


I had some non-tubless (120 tpi) Minions I set up tubeless on mulefuts. I set them up 2 times. I bought them used and the previous owner had at least attempted tubeless because there was sealant residue with glitter inside. The 2nd time I set them back up I did have to use a strap around the outside to help keep them flat and force the beads onto the bead shelf. Once on the wheels they were hard to get off.


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## VTSession (Aug 18, 2005)

Cerpss said:


> I had some non-tubless (120 tpi) Minions I set up tubeless on mulefuts. I set them up 2 times. I bought them used and the previous owner had at least attempted tubeless because there was sealant residue with glitter inside. The 2nd time I set them back up I did have to use a strap around the outside to help keep them flat and force the beads onto the bead shelf. Once on the wheels they were hard to get off.


Thanks man. I'll try the strap technique to get the bead in place.


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## dogmotor (Nov 20, 2010)

Always thought Orange was the coolest color for the Lurch. Is it ever coming back?


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

It's Lurch Season!


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## haymaker (Jul 12, 2013)

BikesFloat said:


> I'm a full-time traveler, so the Lurch is my only ride. I run a set of Geax Tatoo 29 x 2.3s with my BD 29er wheelset for pavement and groomed bike paths. I'm content with the fit and feel.


I had enjoyed the Conti Trail kings 29x2.4 (see photos above) for the majority of the last few months, but it's snow and winter season here in NewEngland now, so the fatties are back on and the true reason I love the Lurch returns


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## no one in particular (Jan 30, 2004)

So my lurch is looking a little different these days...









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## mountainbiker24 (Feb 5, 2007)

So I am in the process of buying a Lurch, and I would like to get narrower cranks.. I know it has been discussed earlier in this thread, but is there chainstay clearance to run cranks designed for 170mm rear hubs, such as SRAM direct mount w/ 0 offset or Race Face Cinch cranks like the Aeffect? It would be 1x, so I think I have the chain line figured out. Thank you and Merry Christmas!


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## mountainbiker24 (Feb 5, 2007)

mountainbiker24 said:


> So I am in the process of buying a Lurch, and I would like to get narrower cranks.. I know it has been discussed earlier in this thread, but is there chainstay clearance to run cranks designed for 170mm rear hubs, such as SRAM direct mount w/ 0 offset or Race Face Cinch cranks like the Aeffect? It would be 1x, so I think I have the chain line figured out. Thank you and Merry Christmas!


I don't know about SRAM, but the Race Face Aeffect 100mm cranks do not clear the chai stays. If you bought them, you will need to return them. I hope this helps!


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## H_Tuttle (Feb 27, 2007)

the last of the Lurches?

Save up to 60% off new Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Lurch X9 SRAM

$698


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## customx253 (Mar 6, 2019)

Well I snagged one. I took me longer to read this whole thread than it did to assemble it. Thanks for all the tips guys.


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## LBIkid (Mar 16, 2007)

Does anyone have an 18" Lurch with Bluto lying around that they're not currently riding? If so, I may be willing to take it off your hands.


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