# Torque specs for carbon handlebars?



## jmallory (Jul 29, 2008)

I got some Raceface Sixc carbon handlebars and they didn't come with torque specs. Do I use the specs on the aluminum stem or call Raceface? What are you guys doing? Also, is carbon paste necessary and are all the torque specs the same for all the controls? Thanks!!


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## Jason81 (Oct 8, 2012)

I bought a pair of pro tapper bars, I torqued them down to five n/m. That's what the torque spec is on the stem. Haven't had any problems yet. As far as the levers and shifter goes, I just guessed. No problems there either or I just go lucky. I also haven't used the carbon paste either. Never heard of it till I read your post.


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## BrentP (Jul 6, 2007)

4-6 N/m is appropriate for bars. IMO you should always use carbon friction paste. It prevents any chance of damaging CF parts by ensuring a tight connection at the lowest possible torque.


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## Jason81 (Oct 8, 2012)

BrentP said:


> 4-6 N/m is appropriate for bars. IMO you should always use carbon friction paste. It prevents any chance of damaging CF parts by ensuring a tight connection at the lowest possible torque.


I will go look for that stuff. Is that something the LBS will have in stock?


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## BrentP (Jul 6, 2007)

Jason81 said:


> I will go look for that stuff. Is that something the LBS will have in stock?


Yes, it should be an in-stock item at any decent LBS. There are several different brands, but it all does basically the same thing. I use this product from Finish Line, and have been extremely happy with it.

I use it on every component interface, carbon to carbon or carbon to alloy, to ensure I have a solid, non-slip connection (seatpost, saddle rails, controls, grips, etc.). It used to drive me crazy when my alloy Thomson seatpost would slide down into my carbon frame over the course of a ride, even though I had the collar torqued down as tight as I dared. A little carbon friction paste cured the problem and gave me a secure fit at a torque setting well below recommended specs. It's fantastic stuff and a little goes a long way... a small tube will probably last you the rest of your riding career.


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## Jason81 (Oct 8, 2012)

BrentP said:


> Yes, it should be an in-stock item at any decent LBS. There are several different brands, but it all does basically the same thing. I use this product from Finish Line, and have been extremely happy with it.
> 
> I use it on every component interface, carbon to carbon or carbon to alloy, to ensure I have a solid, non-slip connection (seatpost, saddle rails, controls, grips, etc.). It used to drive me crazy when my alloy Thomson seatpost would slide down into my carbon frame over the course of a ride, even though I had the collar torqued down as tight as I dared. A little carbon friction paste cured the problem and gave me a secure fit at a torque setting well below recommended specs. It's fantastic stuff and a little goes a long way... a small tube will probably last you the rest of your riding career.


Thanks bro. I will be picking some up.


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## shopcat_cycles (Dec 28, 2007)

Check to see if your stem is carbon compatible. If so, use the torque specs for the stem. Manufacturers don't provide torque spec for handlebars.


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## ShinDiggity (Mar 29, 2010)

Get a product like this one. It makes life easy. Preset to 5 nm. I use it on all controls, seat binder and stem. Actually I don't tighten the levers quite that tight so they move on impact. I never go beyond the click on any carbon fiber item.


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## Jason81 (Oct 8, 2012)

ShinDiggity said:


> Get a product like this one. It makes life easy. Preset to 5 nm. I use it on all controls, seat binder and stem. Actually I don't tighten the levers quite that tight so they move on impact. I never go beyond the click on any carbon fiber item.
> 
> View attachment 858909


I picked one of those. Makes life easy.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

I had a set of Carbon bars that were used beyond their intended service life. Decided to see how hard I could clamp down on them with an old stem.

Stripped the bolts on the stem before I damaged the bar.

Just torque them to the stems limit.


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## Blk02 (Apr 15, 2006)

I torque mine to 4nm with a CDI preset torque key. You can get them for around $20.00. The torque value on the stem is usually the max torque for the stem bolts and not the target torque value. You want to stay under the stated max torque at least 1nm. Also, never turn a bolt in small increments to reach the intended torque value. Also take note of whether the stem manufacture specifies dry or greased threads for their bolts as this can make a large difference.


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## Robg68 (Oct 27, 2013)

I picked up one of these today. Well worth the $20.00

Bikes I currently have. 2014 Trek Fuel EX 8 29er. 2013 Trek Mamba 29er.


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