# How to build northshore bridges



## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

I'm planning on building a northshore-style bridge in my backyard, and I was wondering if anyone has any tips for me.


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## OGJON (Apr 15, 2009)

search is your friend this topic has been covered many, many times


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

I looked up "north shore bridges" and didn't find anything.


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## bankerboy (Oct 17, 2006)

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=508943

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=558099&highlight=bridge+building

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=524336&highlight=bridge+building

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=359215&highlight=stunt+build

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=354900&highlight=stunt+build

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=473345&highlight=stunt+build


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## OGJON (Apr 15, 2009)

thealmightywes said:


> I looked up "north shore bridges" and didn't find anything.


here's the thread I started when I 1st joined up asking the same Q.

plenty of links on North Shore

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=510142


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

None of those threads are about what I asked for, which is _how to build the bridges._ Not pictures of them.


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## bankerboy (Oct 17, 2006)

I am not trying to start a war. While you may not believe these threads to be helpful, you really should read through the threads and not just look at the pretty pictures (although they give up a lot of detail in themselves).

You will learn about:

*stringers* - the boards/logs that support the deck. You will most likely want something that has little/no spring to it.

*fasteners* - why deck screws are far superior to nails

*tread * - the surface the deck is made of. What is good/bad, how far to space them, why a natural surface has better traction than a finished one. How much overhang on a stringers is acceptable.

*support* - What works best is different conditions, why you shouldn't attach structures to living trees

*upkeep* - what/how often something needs to be done

Granted these are not in any one convenient place. The information is scattered among the threads, but it is there.

I have yet to see anyone post detailed, step by step directions in the construction. It is usually pictures of the progress, completion, and use. You just have to piece it together.

If you don't want to do this, buy a book. There are many trail building books. IMBA was mentioned and there are several others. There is no free lunch. You either have to spend time doing the research or spend money to get the condensed, item specific instructions you seek.

What ever you wind up doing, good luck. It is a lot of work to build it but a heck of a lot more fun to nail your own stunt. :thumbsup:


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

Thanks bankerboy, I read through most of the threads and didn't see anything,I guess I just have to look harder.


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

Also, would these work as a deck material? I have a ton of them left over from a fence project.


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## bankerboy (Oct 17, 2006)

Depends on how narrow you want the tread. They look about 14 ish inches long? They will work for the straight run but you may need a wider tread into corners. Your back tire will fall on the inside line of your front. Roll your bike in dirt to calculate the minimum width needed in the corner. 

I would also recommend you pre-drill the holes on the treads (slightly smaller diameter than the fastener) to avoid splitting. 

Be sure they are strong enough to support you, gear, and of course your bike. Nothing better than spending lots of time building only to wind up with stitches because of inadequate materials.


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

They are about 15" long, yes.


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

They look narrow enough that you could probably stagger them when you get to a corner effectively giving you 24" or more of width. You'll need at least 3 stringers in the corners to do that


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

thealmightywes said:


> Also, would these work as a deck material? I have a ton of them left over from a fence project.


Having built my fence, those look like cedar 1x2's. If they're not more than an inch and a half thick, I'd advise against using those.


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## thealmightywes (Dec 13, 2008)

ebxtreme said:


> Having built my fence, those look like cedar 1x2's. If they're not more than an inch and a half thick, I'd advise against using those.


They are redwood, which I think is strong enough, but then again I know absolutely diddly-squat about wood consistency and grain patterns.


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

thealmightywes said:


> They are redwood, which I think is strong enough, but then again I know absolutely diddly-squat about wood consistency and grain patterns.


I suppose it depends on how wide your stringers are apart, but I wouldn't trust a 1x2. I suppose if you're the only one riding it, then it might not matter though.

These cedar rungs are roughly 1.5" thick.


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## OGJON (Apr 15, 2009)

since you said you missed any relevant info/links
here is one of the links from my previous post

http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/index.html


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## lou_b_83 (Nov 3, 2007)

I am trying to do a bridge myself. I have a question. 

How do I split 5 foot long logs to make them flat on 2 sides? I am looking to make a ladder jump. The wood would have to be 2 inches or thicker. Any help would be great. Thanks.


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## Bob W (Jul 6, 2004)

*Split*

Depends on how big the log is. If you have several wedges you can start one then go down the log (be mindful of the grain) and use seveal to slit it longways. the second is to use a chain saw to cut it flat.

Your doing this in your backyard/private property...right?


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

Splitting a log that long without the split twisting is likely to be tough unless you have some really big straight grain logs to start with.

There are a couple of work arounds. For stringers, you can "mill" the flat edges with an axe or chainsaw. For decking, add a third stringer and use shorter deck boards alternating. This method tends to draw people to ride right up the middle of the ramp as it looks more solid.

Not the best example but you can get the idea.


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## lou_b_83 (Nov 3, 2007)

Bob W said:


> Depends on how big the log is. If you have several wedges you can start one then go down the log (be mindful of the grain) and use seveal to slit it longways. the second is to use a chain saw to cut it flat.
> 
> Your doing this in your backyard/private property...right?


Yea on my land. I have a 8 ft steep down hill that I want to turn into a drop with a tran. BUT I kind of want to do it with logs I have and not buy wood. Yea know keep it natural. :thumbsup:


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## redriderbb (Aug 30, 2005)

*Book.*

Roy Underhill - (PBS Woodwright's Shop) - A practical Guide to Traditional Woodcraft. The entire first chapter is on tree selection. VERY...GOOD...READ.

Ben


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