# Dropper Post Question



## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

First mountain bike, first dropper post. Now, when I picked the bike up I knew instantly the seat was too high. I asked the LBS to adjust it and he said to adjust by using the dropper post. Is this normal practice? So now I have to fiddle with it every time I put it up to find the right pedaling position again?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Pennywise said:


> First mountain bike, first dropper post. Now, when I picked the bike up I knew instantly the seat was too high. I asked the LBS to adjust it and he said to adjust by using the dropper post. Is this normal practice? So now I have to fiddle with it every time I put it up to find the right pedaling position again?


Whoa whoa whoa....that shop guy needs to be punched in the nuts. You do NOT adjust saddle height (fitment) by using the dropper.

Extend the dropper to max height, and set your pedaling position at max height of the dropper. Sometimes, the dropper equipped on stock builds is too long. This happens sometimes when folks have short legs. Sometimes a shop will be nice and do a trade for a shorter one that'll fit you better. Sometimes they put the onus on you to buy a new post and then sell the one that's too long. I personally don't like that method, but a fair number of shops do it.

You need to talk to that guy's boss and make sure he's corrected. And if HE'S the boss, you probably ought to find a new shop.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

Sad to say that I agree with Harold's ending comment -the shop needs to know the staff is suggesting to adjust height based on dropper extension position.

Is there any chance you mis-understood what was suggested? I am not implying you are wrong, just asking a question that if you play it back in your head the way it was described to you, could you have misunderstood because you may not be familiar with terminology?

But yes, the seat height should be adjusted as if there were no dropper installed. Raise/lower it at the seat clamp.
Do not over-tighten the clamp.
Then enjoy riding and learning when/how to use the dropper technology.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Yes to the above. With the post fully extended, adjust the saddle to the optimal pedaling height using the seat post clamp. If the post can not go low enough because the stanchion collar is hitting the seat post clamp or the bottom end is hitting something in the seat tube, you need a shorter dropper. 

And yes to going back to the shop and ratting out the ignorant employee (probably a roadie) for the sake of other customers and the shop. If your post is too long, you may want to try to get them to swap it out for an appropriate length post.

And do not take it upon yourself to kick him in the nuts. His supervisor should be the one to do that.


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

Harold said:


> Whoa whoa whoa....that shop guy needs to be punched in the nuts. You do NOT adjust saddle height (fitment) by using the dropper.
> 
> ...


Would be fitting somehow to have the shop guy stand above the lowered dropper, and reset it repeatedly.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Either your bike shop guy meant for you to lower the seatpost in the frame, which is normal, or that mechanic needs a dropper post blasts into his balls repeatedly. The seatpost should fit you at fully extended position.

Setting the saddle height is not difficult, but it's also something that the bike shop can't do without you present. Saddle height needs to be set within 1/4" of perfect for each individual rider. If you didn't stick around and ask for help with this, the bike shop should not be offering remote advice.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

phlegm said:


> Would be fitting somehow to have the shop guy stand above the lowered dropper, and reset it repeatedly.


If that's how the shop guy sets his dropper seat post height, then it's gonna happen sooner or later.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Oh god, I knew that sounded ...off. I test rode in the parking lot so he could make adjustments. I said “the one thing that I notice is the seat is too high to pedal when all the way up” and he said “oh, yeah just lower the dropper to where it’s comfortable when pedaling”. “Is that what people normally do when it’s too high?” and he said “yup”.

I’m not too worried as long as it can be adjusted properly. But I don’t know if it can go any lower until I try to loosen and push it down further...maybe an inch or 2.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

Pennywise said:


> Oh god, I knew that sounded ...off. I test rode in the parking lot so he could make adjustments. I said "the one thing that I notice is the seat is too high to pedal when all the way up" and he said "oh, yeah just lower the dropper to where it's comfortable when pedaling". "Is that what people normally do when it's too high?" and he said "yup".
> 
> I'm not too worried as long as it can be adjusted properly. But I don't know if it can go any lower until I try to loosen and push it down further...maybe an inch or 2.


Sounds like the dropper is too tall for you. In your other thread, you posted a photo of your bike and I think you still had some room to drop the post into the seat tube a bit more. I would do that. You want the dropper post to fit properly at maximum extension. If the post is slammed to the seat tube and it's still too tall, you could try talking to Trek and see if they will do a swap out for better fitment. Trek is really good at taking care of riders.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Battery said:


> Sounds like the dropper is too tall for you. In your other thread, you posted a photo of your bike and I think you still had some room to drop the post into the seat tube a bit more. I would do that. You want the dropper post to fit properly at maximum extension. If the post is slammed to the seat tube and it's still too tall, you could try talking to Trek and see if they will do a swap out for better fitment. Trek is really good at taking care of riders.


Cool thanks! Here is a picture...is there any way to tell if I can drop the seat tube more? My post is fully down, not sure if that matters when looking.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

It looks like there's quite a bit of room to drop the post further into the frame. If the cable is routed internally, pull the excess out the cable port in the frame as you lower.

If the seatpost won't go down any more, there might be a structural obstruction in the frame like a water bottle cage mount. If that's the case, you need a shorter dropper post, unfortunately.

Shame on that mechanic for his ignorance.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

Pennywise said:


> Cool thanks! Here is a picture...is there any way to tell if I can drop the seat tube more? My post is fully down, not sure if that matters when looking.


In your other photo, it looks like there is a structural bend that may limit the amount of insertion. The only way to find out is to just lower the post down more and see how much more it will go in. Just do what mack said and pull some of the slack out from up front as you insert it.


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## sturge (Feb 22, 2009)

Loosen clamp and try lowering it. If you don't have a torque wrench, take note of how tight the clamp bolt is when loosening. Try to stay within that range when re-tightening. With some droppers, if you torque the clamp bolt too tight it can affect how the dropper works.

Oh...and your description of what the shop told you is typical from what I've seen around here. I'm sure there's a few good ones out there but I haven't had a shop touch any of my bikes in 20 years.


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## Forest Rider (Oct 29, 2018)

The more this story unfolds I have two thoughts:

1) shop person didn't quite understand just how much too talk the seat is and offered a quick solution, maybe for the test ride only but unlikely. Assume buyer would eventually lower the seat the scosche or two required or fit. However, shop dude should have realized the seat is 2" too tall just from watching him ride in the parking lot.

2) shop dude didn't want to redo the install because of the effort involved to pull cable slack out from an extreme adjustment. It's not like he wanted the seat lowered 1/4" which takes 90 seconds, but rather pull the cable back and lower seat a lot which takes more time to make sure cable is still in a good path and doesn't rattle in the frame (if internally routed).

What size frame is your bike? I have 2 bikes sized medium. The collar of the dropper is an inch to inch and a half above the seat tube. Indicating it has further insertion than yours, assuming we have a similar length seat post. I've only had 2 posts and 2 bikes, I'd assume a post is selected that matches the frame size, instead of saying a post with the longest length isn't spec'd for an XS or Small frame. LOL

Good luck, I'd say you'll be hauling your bike back for an adjustment. Once it's 'close' you can, at home, raise/lower to meet your needs without issue.
My seat post has been slipping and I'd stop a few times on a ride to raise it 1/4" or more. That's not a big deal as far as adjustments go.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Forest Rider said:


> The more this story unfolds I have two thoughts:
> 
> 1) shop person didn't quite understand just how much too talk the seat is and offered a quick solution, maybe for the test ride only but unlikely. Assume buyer would eventually lower the seat the scosche or two required or fit. However, shop dude should have realized the seat is 2" too tall just from watching him ride in the parking lot.
> 
> ...


It's a size M/L which is 18.5. Sounds like I should take it back to the shop for the cable slack management huh?


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

I adjusted the seat tube all the way in. Pushed it down as far as it can go. Only got me a tiny bit closer but still too high. I am thinking I just need a shorter dropper. Any suggestions?


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## BushwackerinPA (Aug 10, 2006)

short dropper or another brand.

One-Up has the most drop you can get for given length. IMO its still to not have much as possible, you can always use less if dont want to use it all.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

What dropper post is that? Some of them can be shimmed a bit.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Pennywise said:


> It's a size M/L which is 18.5.


I ride similar sized frames, and occasionally encounter dropper fit issues. One of my bikes has a 125mm Thomson. There weren't many longer droppers when I bought it, but I MIGHT be able to fit a Oneup 150mm dropper in that frame at full drop.

My hardtail is a TIGHT fit with a lot of droppers. Some won't fit at all. I'm using a Oneup 150mm dropper that's inserted as far as it will go (still lots of room to the collar, but there's a frame bend that stops it), and I had to reduce it to 130mm of drop to get it to fit. I REALLY like the Oneup dropper, in part because it gives you the most drop for the shortest length, but also because you can reduce the amount of drop to help make it fit more bikes and more people.


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## Battery (May 7, 2016)

I definitely recommend calling Trek HQ and ask them for assistance. They may be willing to switch out the dropper. I believe you have a 125mm dropper on that bike. The smaller sizes do come with 100mm droppers (same model). Trek might be willing to do a straight swap on the posts for you.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

Pennywise said:


> I adjusted the seat tube all the way in. Pushed it down as far as it can go. Only got me a tiny bit closer but still too high. I am thinking I just need a shorter dropper. Any suggestions?


From the photo, you have 3-4 inches sticking out of your seat tube. Did it hit something in the tube and stop? Perhaps the cable is impeding it? Pulling the cable out is not a big deal, just gently do it: if the post moves a half inch, about a half inch of cable should come out. Now, if you have to move the seatpost all 3-4 inches, there may be too much cable hanging out and you'll need to shorten it and that will require the shop's assistance, but you can at least have your seat height correct.

Also, you don't want to just shove the seatpost down on top of the dropper cable, you might crimp the housing.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

TwiceHorn said:


> From the photo, you have 3-4 inches sticking out of your seat tube. Did it hit something in the tube and stop? Perhaps the cable is impeding it? Pulling the cable out is not a big deal, just gently do it: if the post moves a half inch, about a half inch of cable should come out. Now, if you have to move the seatpost all 3-4 inches, there may be too much cable hanging out and you'll need to shorten it and that will require the shop's assistance, but you can at least have your seat height correct.
> 
> Also, you don't want to just shove the seatpost down on top of the dropper cable, you might crimp the housing.


It was all the way down...wouldn't go any further. I'll go back it out a little due to the cable crimping possibility. Damn. Lol


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Battery said:


> I definitely recommend calling Trek HQ and ask them for assistance. They may be willing to switch out the dropper. I believe you have a 125mm dropper on that bike. The smaller sizes do come with 100mm droppers (same model). Trek might be willing to do a straight swap on the posts for you.


I'll call Trek tomorrow and post my results. It'd be awesome if they swap with me.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Pennywise said:


> It was all the way down...wouldn't go any further. I'll go back it out a little due to the cable crimping possibility. Damn. Lol


@twicehorn YOU WERE RIGHT!!! I undid the seat tube clamp completely, and twisted an pushed until the seat post went down far enough. Much much better! Now I just need to get the extra cable cut and capped. Might do this myself because I plan to learn anyways. Probly need some tools...thank Zeus for the internet!


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

Pennywise said:


> @twicehorn YOU WERE RIGHT!!! I undid the seat tube clamp completely, and twisted an pushed until the seat post went down far enough. Much much better! Now I just need to get the extra cable cut and capped. Might do this myself because I plan to learn anyways. Probly need some tools...thank Zeus for the internet!


Good deal. I might go ahead and let the bike shop do it. Because the end of that particular housing is buried in your seat tube, that complicates things a bit. Probably better to learn about housing chopping on a derailleur housing that at least has both ends free.

One thing you might want to do before you call your seat adjustment done is smear some grease on the post around the area where the clamp will grab it. Seat posts are notorious for creaking and popping and some grease can help with that.

Also, depending on how much cable you pulled out, you may not need to trim it. You could just pull it out so it's part of the "bouquet" around your bars.


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## tweeder82o (Oct 1, 2018)

yea definitely something the LBS should have taken care as part of your purchase... the fact that he was the one that set you up on a test ride he should have known how.

even if he was too lazy to adjust it for the test ride, he for sure should have adjusted it post purchase

congrats on the bike and glad to see that you are getting a lot of help from this forum


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## phlegm (Jul 13, 2006)

tweeder82o said:


> yea definitely something the LBS should have taken care as part of your purchase... the fact that he was the one that set you up on a test ride he should have known how.
> 
> even if he was too lazy to adjust it for the test ride, he for sure should have adjusted it post purchase
> 
> congrats on the bike and glad to see that you are getting a lot of help from this forum


Look, the OP only spent $4k. Hardly worth the LBS' time, right?


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

phlegm said:


> Look, the OP only spent $4k. Hardly worth the LBS' time, right?


Oh, come on. You have to spend at least $5k for it to be worth adjusting the seatpost height, and $10k to trim any cables that are too long.


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## tweeder82o (Oct 1, 2018)

Harold said:


> Oh, come on. You have to spend at least $5k for it to be worth adjusting the seatpost height, and $10k to trim any cables that are too long.


since for under $4k, you get someone to tell you the wrong information about the dropper, then i'd assume that from $4k to $5k, you'd at least get someone who'd tell you the proper way to adjust your dropper post, but with the wrong torque value and wrong wrench size.


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## Pennywise (Sep 11, 2019)

Hahaha! Exactly! I have officially made the decision to do all of my own bike work...aside from maybe trimming the excess dropper cable. First one is on them while I look to the great intra net for the rest...oh wait, that’s YOU! Lol thanks everyone


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Trimming a dropper post cable is definitely something worth DIYing. It's not hard, although your LBS treated it like pulling teeth.


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## TwiceHorn (Jun 18, 2014)

mack_turtle said:


> Trimming a dropper post cable is definitely something worth DIYing. It's not hard, although your LBS treated it like pulling teeth.


No, but inasmuch as it is inadvisable to cut it while cable resides inside, and the ways in which the cable is secured at the lever vary wildly, he might actually need to detach it from the bottom of the dropper post before whacking, which may be a little more fiddly than a newb should get into.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Like I said, it's not that hard. I mastered installing and adjusting an Odyssey Gyro on my BMX bike when I was 13. The average adult can figure it out.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Pennywise said:


> Hahaha! Exactly! I have officially made the decision to do all of my own bike work...aside from maybe trimming the excess dropper cable. First one is on them while I look to the great intra net for the rest...oh wait, that's YOU! Lol thanks everyone


I'd recommend, first, finding a shop (or specific shop employees) that you trust. I don't care who you are, at some point you're going to need a shop's service department for a job.

I suppose if you have a bottomless pit of cash, it's going to take you some time to build up a reasonably useful toolkit so you can work on the most common things on your bike. There will still be a few rather expensive tools for the uncommon jobs. I've been riding and accumulating bike tools for 20yrs and there's still stuff I don't have. For example, there are a TON of different bottom bracket tools and I just have a few of them, since that's a tool that I only buy as I need it and my bikes have only had a few different types of bottom brackets all said.

For this job, though, you won't need a ton. Just a set of metric hex keys (buy a decent quality general set at a hardware store or similar), some cable/housing cutters, and a torque key (I really like the CDI preset ones). Reason for the torque key is that dropper posts are sensitive to clamp pressure. Too tight and it will restrict the operation of the dropper and possibly damage the internals. I have a 5Nm one that works well for seatpost clamps and stem faceplate bolts (actual torque is less important there with aluminum parts, but you DO want the bolts to have even/equal torque to avoid cracking the faceplate of the stem) and other clamp interfaces on the bike.

Buy yourself a workstand sooner rather than later, though. It will pay dividends. I got a Park stand used about 17yrs ago and I still use it.


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## Jwiffle (Jan 26, 2004)

Glad OP got it sorted. As a counter point, some Giants have been coming with really long droppers that are too high at full height for a lot of customers. I'll suggest they'll want a shorter dropper, and they'll go, "Nah, I'll just lower the dropper a bit." 

But, no, the dropper is for lowering the seat for gnar, not adjusting for proper pedaling height. (Only exception is neutral support bikes in road races)


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