# Very bad news on the light front (DX Bike light )



## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

It is quite good

This is my take on the DX bike light .
A guy on the Singletrack forum bought one and kindly sent it to me to pull apart and give it the once over

First up very nice box even with magnetic closures 









WEIGHTS AND SIZES
I will let the pics tell this bit

































On Opening the box I was shocked a little on the actual size of the thing as I try to make my lights as small as possible , this is tiny .
And looks on the outside to be a real nice product 
the battery is neat and well packaged with a good connector set 
I cant see any problems at all from the outside so time to have a look a little deeper.

first before unscrewing the the bezel I did a very non techy test the seal 
this involved sucking with the whole bezel in my mouth to creat a vacuum and you can soon tell if it is sealed and it passed with flying colours no leaks there.

I also did the same test on the switch end and that was good too .



























































No real issues so far The alloy in side is very soft and poor quality but not a problem 
there were signs of small bits of swarfe around but so far not in any place to cause shorts.

the first main niggle shows itself the screw holding the mount only 2 threads holding the thing together
ok as the second pic shows it cannot be too long but a couple more threads would be better 

















just prior to unscrewing the retainer ring I did notice this large piece of swarfe hiding there.
the bits on the right are just stringy plastic



































Still nothing too bad found yet but was a bit concerned about the swarf inside with the driver board . I was just going to reassemble it as it belonged to some one else but after I saw the swarfe it need cleaning out so dismantled it and found that the P7 on its star was glued to the heatsink with a clear epoxy .

So this was removed and the star glued back in with Arctic Alumina epoxy 
then it was just a reversal to reassemble

some thermal past on the heatsink and screw threads of the retainer 
and some silicon round the cable . and I did put in a slightly longer screw to hold the bracket


















































Ok so now some thoughts .

When I first plugged it in the first thing I did was just sit it on the desk and wait to see how hot it got and how fast , now this is a rare sunny day in blighty with a nice 20 degree c ambient temp and after 7 minutes it was quite warm getting hotter than I would normally like so I ended the test and started the take down .

I was quite pleased it was getting warm as this meant some transfer of heat was happening.
The worrying thing about this is after the rebuild it got very hot real quickly like 3 minutes 
so in very high ambients it stands a good chance of overheating the led .

Also I am just 1.5 hours in to a runtime test with a desk fan on full blowing over the light and is has stabilised at 35 degrees c so I dread to think what the internal temps could get to if I had not added the thermal epoxy and paste

No beam shots to compare it with my other lights yet but will try and get some tonight

so as it stands it looks like it will take quite a few sales away from the main light makers 
and also makes DIY seem a bit daft as there is no way you could build a light of this quality for the price . including battery and charger.

The main failings I think will be the mount breaking as you stretch the oring round the bars or pulling the bolt out of the 2 threads holding it 
, possibly overheating issues in warmer climes than the uk if the user is not carefull to switch to low in times of low airflow

also maybe the cable pulling out of the light when the mount breaks in a stack .

I cannot comment ot the electronics as I know nothing about them suffice to say the quality is no where near Taskled stuff

I would like to say it is rubbish dont buy it but Cant as I would buy one if I was in the market for a budget light .


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

I'm not sure why you'd consider it a bad thing for the bike light world. 

In my opinion any product that will get more people out and riding is a great thing. This will certainly also help riders everywhere be safer while riding out in the dark. 

This also won't kill off the DIYers. Believe me, those with the motivation to DIY will continue to do so  
If anything it provides a great housing for people to mod and help create their own one off lights from. 

I've built my own triple and double cree lights and the experience was a blast. That being said I purchased one of these Sunday and I'm anxiously awaiting its arrival!


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Popper252 said:


> I'm not sure why you'd consider it a bad thing for the bike light world.
> 
> In my opinion any product that will get more people out and riding is a great thing. This will certainly also help riders everywhere be safer while riding out in the dark.
> 
> ...


Sorry popper that is the Yorkshire sarcasm and irony .:thumbsup:

It is bad news for the main light makers it is good news as you say as it will get more folks into it it does make diy seem daft if you were doing it for money saving reasons


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

You've pretty much summarized my findings with the lights. Pretty much ends my DIYing days. Only a few thing left to do on this light : 
1. Strip down and clean up any swarf
2. Lap the Led and the heat sink - then tap a couple of screws with thermal compound or AA. 
3. Replace the screw with one a bit longer.

I feel kinda sorry for all the folks I just built lights for. Typically my costs were 30-50% more than the DX light, although I did have better chargers and we ran better (taskled) drivers. But there was no way my housing could match in finishing. I do believe my heatsinking is better though.


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## WindWithMe (Apr 17, 2008)

I've had this light for around a week now,and have only ran into one problem. It seems every time I would hit a bump it would turn off. I isolated the problem in the battery pack,and proceeded to take it apart. The first thing I noticed was a loosely soldered wire connecting the top of the board. A quick soldering and some vinyl electric tape seems to have eliminated any turning off issues. I rode last night on very rough terrain just to make sure that I won't have this issue later on. 

When I got home I put my bike in the basement and forgot that I had left the light on. 2 hours later I noticed a light was on in the basement and realized I had left the light on medium. I felt the light and it was only warm to the touch. It still appeared to have lots of juice left in it. 

For the price I paid,I'm very happy with this light so far. Here is a pic of the wire I soldered.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

WindWithMe said:


> Here is a pic of the wire I soldered.


Excellent that you solved the problem! Thanks for the pic.


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

+1 on general consensus of this light. 
Good light if you disassemble it, clean, AAA the star, and thermal grease it.
Cost is excellent.
The removal and then AAA 'ing of the star into place is going to be the most difficult part of the process. Easy enough if you build your own. I truly worry about how long the P7 would last without a better thermal path. I was shocked when I removed the star and saw that a little splotch of green glue held the star to the heat sink. 
I put a D bin P7 in one of the lights. Better color rendition. Whiter light and less green. Consider ordering a D bin star when you order your lights.
I put a MC-E in another of the lights. Beam does not focus at all with the included reflector. Nothing surprising about that really. 
No other reflectors here to experiment with for the MC-E.  
Not sure who out there might have a box full of spare bits to experiment (ahem....Troutie) with.......


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

I just did this little test to see how fast the temp ramps up



This was after the mods to it , now I wish I had done it before 
the probe was right next to the dome with a little blob of compound to help the connection
the case was at 30 degrees at the 2 minute mark and I believe the dies will be a good deal hotter than the probe


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

the good news for the bike light industry is that I haven't been able to connect to deal extreme for a couple of days now. Not sure what is going on.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> Sorry popper that is the Yorkshire sarcasm and irony .:thumbsup:
> 
> It is bad news for the main light makers it is good news as you say as it will get more folks into it it does make diy seem daft if you were doing it for money saving reasons


Sorry for the misunderstanding  Sometimes the humor gets scrambled a bit while crossing the Atlantic 

Thanks for the great pics as well!


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## mha[email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

I wouldn't give up on DIY lights just yet. Whoever is making this light is not doing any QA (quality assurance) that I can see. All the aluminum pieces Troutie calls swarf are one example of that. I had lots of "extra" aluminum in my lite as well.

They are also cutting corners on the electronics. The most flagrant example of that is the resistors labeled R03 and R04 on the "top" of the driver board. These are current sense resistors, and will have 2.4 amps running thru them when the light is on high. Look at how small they are. At least one of them will burn up before too long. The one with R100 printed on it has 2 amps running thru it when the lite is on high. It will need to dissipate almost half a watt and it is at most an eighth of a watt resistor. Sooner or later it will go poof, and your lite will either stop working, get very dim, or look like a short to the battery pack (which looks like it doesn't have a fuse, so it might go boom).

I'm going to repeat Troutie's test with a fan, but I'll be measuring temps of parts on the driver. Pretty much any readings above 100C mean you will fry the part after a while. Seems silly to use a LED that can last 50000 hours and pair it with a driver that will last a few hundred hours.

It might be possible to replace R03 and R04 with slightly larger resistors that are rated for more power. Even then a bit of AAA over the resistors and touching the edge of the housing wouldn't hurt. It would provide a thermal path to cool the resistors.

So I don't have any trouble saying these are rubbish, and maybe even dangerous the way you get them from the factory.

Too bad they look so nice. A lot of folks will be impressed by the bling and get one. But the stuff inside ...

Mark


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

Cheers for that info Mark be interested in your findings .

I finished the runtime test and it managed 3 hours 20 mins on full .

Then put it on charge and 1 hour later the casing of the charger hit 51 degrees c 
again being an electronics numpty I dont know what to make of that but it seems a tad hot to me.


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

I just finished putting my charger back together. I'll post pictures of the innards later. I wasn't too impressed with what I found, but at least it has a fuse . I haven't run the light long enuff to try charging the batteries yet.

You're right, 51C is a bit warm for what should be a switching supply. It is rated at 8.5 volts with 1.8 amps output. So if its 80% efficient it will need to dissipate 3 watts, which could make a housing that small get pretty warm. Given the internal construction of the charger, I would suspect some internal part (the transformer?) is getting really hot. 80% would be pretty good efficiency for a cheap switching power supply. If the efficiency was lower the case would heat up faster.

How long did it take to fully charge the batteries? I would expect something like 2 hours. Or did you decide to let things cool off first?

Mark


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

It is still chargeing and just about on the 2 hour mark now. so will keep my eye on it .
in between drinking beer and BBQing some bits of animals.


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

On my board the part labeled R04 on the PCB, has R100 printed on it. It is a .1 ohm resistor. The part labeled R03 on the PCB has R500 printed on it. It is a .5 ohm resistor. I'll refer to these resistors as R100 and R500. The may be switched around on your board, but that won't matter, they are wired in parallel. The current sense voltage across these parts is .2 volts, according the the SM5241 driver chip data sheet. So R100 has .2 volts divided by .1 ohms of current running thru it (from the equation V = IR we get I = V/R), or 2 amps. 2 amps is a lot of current.

It was hard to rig a setup where I blew air across my test LED and didn't blow air across the driver board. I found a setup that seemed to work. After 5 minutes R100 was up to 80C and still climbing. After 15 minutes it got up to around 91C. There may have been some cooling from stray air currents. It's hard to hold a thermocouple on tiny parts, and the driver's brass holder gets pretty darn warm (53C), so the whole thing was hard to hold. My readings may have been a bit on the low side. My guess is if you run the light long enuff on high, you will eventually fry R100, and the light will stop working.

R500 was typically 10C cooler than R100. Most other parts on the board got warm, but not as warm as R100. The mosfet got to around 50C. The diode stayed below 60C. The inductor got up to around 55C. It's hard to tell how much of this heating was caused by power being dissipated in the part and how much was due to heat flowing along the PC board from R100. Sigh ... wish I had access to a nice FLIR camera. They make figuring out thermal flows on printed circuit boards easy.

Running the light on low, R100 never seems to get above 50C. All other parts were pretty cool as well.

There may be some thermal regulation built into the micro on the button side of the driver. I had a couple of instances where the light dimmed or shut off, or the red LED came on. I may have shorted something with my thermocouple, or it could be the dying gasps from the micro as it goes into thermal runaway mode . I'll have to dig up my oscilloscope and look at a few signals on the board before I'm sure what's going on.

For now I'd say if you don't want to replace R100 and R500 with something more reasonable (like 2 R180 resistors in a larger package perhaps), you are probably OK AAAing the crap out of the resistors, driver, LED, case etc. A blob of AAA that covered the R100 and R500 resistors and touched the driver's brass holder would help keep R100 cooler.

If you don't want to put in new resistors, but are handy with a soldering iron, there is one thing you could do that might help R100 survive longer. Touch up each end of the resistor with some leaded solder. As the resistor heats up it expands, then contracts as it cools. The solder on my light looks lead free, and lead free solder isn't as flexible as solder based on lead.

Mark


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Troutie,

Modded my board to use three .27 ohm resistors in parallel instead of the .1 (R100) and .5 (R500) in parallel. I desoldered the old resistors and then removed any remaining solder using solderwick. I laid 2 down flat where the old resistors were. I then soldered the third on top of the 2, sort of in the middle of them. I'll try to post a picture later.

results:
time, stock, modded
5 min, 80, 70
10 min, 85, 71
15 min, 91, 71

That seems like a pretty flat temperature curve compared to the stock setup. I'd probably feel pretty comfortable running this light on high for the 3+ hours you got, after I do all the heat sinking mods.

I used 1/2 watt 1210 sized resistors like these: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=RHM.27SCT-ND

Now my light will be a little less bright than a stock light. The new current sense resistor is .09 ohms vs. .0833 for the old setup. So my lite on high will pump about 10% less current thru the LED. I don't really care as I'm going to install a D bin P7 LED. That should make up the difference.

My next mod will be to remove the tantalum cap that the power leads are soldered across. It's only rated at 10 volts. I want to replace it with something rated for 20 volts or more. Most of the rest of the parts on the board should be able to run up to 20 volts. That will let me run the light on the 9.6 volt nicad and 11.1 volt lipo batteries I have for most of my DIY lights. You might even be able to use a 14.8 volt li-ion battery with the light. The low battery LED won't work right for any other battery than the 8.4 volt li-ion that comes with the light, but it's nice to have options.

I also want to change the power leads running into the light. They are only 22 guage and are kind of marginal for the 1+ amp of current they need to carry. I'll probably change the light to use some Tamiya or Dean connectors and 16 gauge silicone coated wire. The wire is much more flexible than the stock 22 gauge wire and should last longer. The Tamiya and Dean connectors are pretty common on RC battery packs.

For DIYers this lite has potential as a decent backup light. Or one to help your friends fix up. It's not a great light, but for someone on a tight budget, with decent soldering skills, it's not a bad deal. I still think that as it's shipped from DX, it's garbage (what we call rubbish here across the pond).

Hope your seared bits of dead animal flesh were tasty,

Mark


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

he mark That is great I wish I had the electronic savvy to do stuff like that one small problem is my colour blindness does not help .
which is why George`s products are so good for me.

right Me and the little dog went for a late walk in the woods to get the beam shots 
I aint saying owt about them just posting them before ebaying all the tools in my garage.

first up standard mtbr settings and same place as most of my others

DX cheapo light on high and low


















and for a comparison a MCE with ledil Iris optic hi @ 700ma and bflex low so a tad lower than the DX


















Yes thanks the Bbq was a normal rainy affair over here but tasty .


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> first before unscrewing the the bezel I did a very non techy test the seal
> this involved sucking with the whole bezel in my mouth to creat a vacuum and you can soon tell if it is sealed and it passed with flying colours no leaks there.


This quote is worthless without photos! :lol:

JZ


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Troutie,

Cheer up dude. I think your MCE with the Iris lens looks so much better than the DX lite. The color is warmer, the DX light looks very green (though you might not notice if colorblind). I wouldn't hock your machine shop just yet. And if you do, how much would it cost for shipping to the former colonies  ? Probably too much. Your lathe looks pretty heavy.

I think the way to beat the DX lights is to point out to people that their quality sucks. "Yep, go buy that $80 light, and next month, after it leaves you in total darkness on a fast hairy downhill 20 degree slope, full of sharp rocks and pungi sticks (what we call the small sharp tree stumps that are left over after trail building sometime), come back and talk to me about better equipment".

The established bike light companies won't lower their price to compete with this garbage. I don't think us DIYers need to lower what we charge for the stuff we build. It's usually as good quality as what most of the big boys sell, uses the latest technology, and is way better quality than the DX lite.

I messed around with the P7 for a while and eventually decided the MCE is a better solution. The drivers are way easier to design (which is what I enjoy doing), and the selection of optics is better.

Keep building! If you stop, where will I get all my good optics info from?

Mark


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

JimZinVT said:


> This quote is worthless without photos! :lol:
> 
> JZ


JZ 
:lol:thanks I just realised how daft that would look I will get the wife to do anymore suction tests

Mark 
Cheers mate I was only joking about selling the tools , using tools is the only thing I am good at .

Yes there will be a lot of sales based on the cheapness and probably a few failures 
already got one over here , a guy left if plugged in in his bag and it got switched on 
well it comes on on high with the first press so it got pretty hot .
he wants me to repair it . do you think it will be the driver that dies first or the P7
He says it comes on but very dim .

Yes when I shone them side by side the MCE was a lot nicer and I could see the shade difference

I also went back over my beam shots and the 6 XPE Troutlight just blows it out of the water

Been fun testing it though 
and maybe DX should send me some empty cases as commision but I cant get a ledil iris in to it


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Troutie, Thanks for the review and the beamshots. :thumbsup: I can't say that I'm much impressed with the beam output from this light. The high is not too bad but like someone else said it looks greenish. I'm not sure just why that is but it might have something to do with maybe a cheaper bin run of the P-7's that SSC was trying to get rid of. So the consensus seems to be if you buy one of these you have to:
1) remount the LED with thermal paste
2) clean out any loose bits
3) use a longer screw to hold the mount to the base. Some Locktite wouldn't hurt either.

I think if I bought one of these I would almost surly replace the stock P-7 with a D-bin like 
*mhahn* suggested. Considering all you would have to do to make this a long running usable light I tend to think it just might be easier to buy a simple stock MTE P-7 torch of your choosing and then do a simple "dummy battery" mod to make it more longer running. I only say this because I've seen the output of the P-7 torches and they are pretty decent. In my book a MTE P-7 5-mode with Turboferret dummy battery and external battery upgrade mod would be the better way to go. I would like though to really see one of these new bike lights compared to the standard P-7 torches.


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## moggy82 (Jan 30, 2009)

Cat-man-do said:


> Troutie, Thanks for the review and the beamshots. :thumbsup: I can't say that I'm much impressed with the beam output from this light. The high is not too bad but like someone else said it looks greenish. I'm not sure just why that is but it might have something to do with maybe a cheaper bin run of the P-7's that SSC was trying to get rid of. So the consensus seems to be if you buy one of these you have to:
> 1) remount the LED with thermal paste
> 2) clean out any loose bits
> 3) use a longer screw to hold the mount to the base. Some Locktite wouldn't hurt either.
> ...


I have to agree totally with you, i have already emailed troutie about some of these issues.

I have a turboferret setup but the driver is a bit poor so isn't even as bright as this light.

Can anyone recommend a good 3-4.5v ish input single sided, 17mm driver for my turboferret setup? That has good (read useful) modes. e.g 700, 1400, 2800.


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Troutie,

On the lite that ran too long on high: my guess is the P7 is toast. It'd be easy enuff to test, just install a new P7 (unless this one was held down with AAA). If the lite is still dim, the driver is dead. If the driver died, I'd bet one of my homemade MCE drivers to one one of your MCE iris housings that it's the resistor with R100 printed on it that burned up. It would be pretty easy to replace R100 (and R500) with a couple of R180s (.18 ohms) in a 1210 smd package (smd = surface mount device). Just requires decent soldering skills, some solderwick, and a jewler's loupe or very young eyes (me I have a jeweler's loupe). Of course if R100 shorted, it might have burned up the mosfet as well, so you may have to replace more than just R100.

Well this failure shows I don't need to do any further testing to see if the micro is smart enuff to turn down the light when it gets hot. It's just has a simple program that monitors the switch and sets the pwm duty cycle on the driver chip to high, low, and flashing. The battery monitoring is done by a separate voltage level monitor IC. It's what lights up the green LED if your battery is OK, and that's why the green LED stays on even after you turn the lite "off". Means you need to unplug it or you'll drain down the battery in a few days.

Glad to hear you're not planning on selling the shop.

Mark

PS one last question (well 2 actually). Do you remove the housing for the lens when you use the iris? What's the diameter of the lens itself?


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> If anything it provides a great housing for people to mod and help create their own one off lights from.


Not really, IMO

I have been staring at this housing for a few days now and cannot come up with any easy way to modify it.

The main problem is the housing depth and that short squatty reflector.
I stock two reflectors that throw out much nicer beam shapes, but they will not fit into the housing and still have room for switches and electronics.

If you can live with the light the way it is, then you are good to go.
I blew mine up and so I am trying to figure out a way to wedge in new electonics, but looks like I will have to cut a custom circuit board on my CNC to git-r-done.

Here's some more beam shot comparisions also in case someone missed my post about this light.
https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BeamShots1.htm

And more photos of the guts here.
https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights35.htm


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## Village (Sep 8, 2008)

Troutie and Mark,

Thanks for the in-depth review and electrical analysis! The driver component concerns really makes me feel better about sticking to the TaskLED stuff.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Troutie,
> 
> On the lite that ran too long on high: my guess is the P7 is toast. It'd be easy enuff to test, just install a new P7 (unless this one was held down with AAA). If the lite is still dim, the driver is dead. If the driver died, I'd bet one of my homemade MCE drivers to one one of your MCE iris housings that it's the resistor with R100 printed on it that burned up. It would be pretty easy to replace R100 (and R500) with a couple of R180s (.18 ohms) in a 1210 smd package (smd = surface mount device). Just requires decent soldering skills, some solderwick, and a jewler's loupe or very young eyes (me I have a jeweler's loupe). Of course if R100 shorted, it might have burned up the mosfet as well, so you may have to replace more than just R100.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mark You may have a few mails when the guy sends his light and I might try the replacing of smd stuff with a powerfull magnifier ( old eyes too ) .

I found the iris was quite sensative to position on the led and the best position was in the holder so I think it is best left in it holder it is a knob hair under 35 mm out of the holder 
so would fit MR11 stuff 
but again the height over the led was sensative and resting on the led is out

I agree with EL34 about the modding potential in my opinion it would be easier to make a housing than a heatsink and bits to fit in 
the front bezel is pretty good though


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Another problem, besides the housing being so short, front to back, is that it really does need to be disassembled to clean up all those metal machining bits. 

Then you run into the problem that I had and someone else here had. The dang wires are soldered very poorly to the driver board and they break off easily.

Then you have to resolder them properly, all the while making sure you are very carefull not to damage anything else so you can get it back together and have a light that will function properly.

My advice on this light would be, *do not go out with just this one light*.
Take two lights so you don't get stranded.
A helmet and bar light should do the trick.
Ya know how Murhpy's law works.


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

> Originally Posted by El34
> My advice on this light would be, do not go out with just this one light.
> Take two lights so you don't get stranded.
> A helmet and bar light should do the trick.
> Ya know how Murhpy's law works.


According to Murphy, both your lites will die. While your going down a steep hill. Very fast. There are lots of turns. And big drop-offs on one or maybe both sides.

But if you patch the DX lite up, it might be OK as a backup lite.

Troutie,

On the Ledil Iris, is it possible to remove just the upper part of the holder, and still have the lower part position the lens correctly. I know it probably won't hold it very well, but I'll deal with that.

I've been building MCE lights with 1.5 inch tubing (which just happens to have a smidge over 35 mm for an inside diameter), so you can probably see where I'm going with this.

Does anybody know of a Ledil dealer that carries the Iris here in the former colonies? I've got nothing against Cutter, they were kind of slow with my first order, but the second was fast enough for traveling halfway across the world. I'd just rather get one or two locally if I can.

Mark


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## searchtime (Jul 6, 2008)

*The Holy Grail (Monty Python style)*

Hello to one and all in this very interesting thread, [email protected] and troutie-mtb you guys seem to have this light thing dialed in so here are a couple of stupid questions that need a couple of brilliant answers. But perhaps some background first.......

Once upon a time in a land far far (and I mean the far from everything type of far) away (New Zealand) there lived a knight who was very unhappy. The reason for his gloom was the fact that his trusty stead (Fred the Epic Comp) was afraid of the dark. Now our MTB rider was a handy sort of fellow so he decided that a set of lights would solve this most vexing issue and thereupon produced a 35w helmet mounted halogen light complete with 450 kilogram battery. Now after competing in his first tournament with other brave knights in the kingdom of Rotorua he realized that he was riding in the dark with what could be likened to a kerosene lamp. Upon this realization he asked another good knight "from where doth thou purchase such lights that shine like dragons eyes" and he replied "What??"
After a period of time had passed and the question finally understood he then replied "You must travel to a distant land known as MTBR Forums, there you will find knights with wisdom in the ways of the dragons eyes" Upon his arrival at this land he found that as wise as these knights may be then could not tell him directly what was the best type of dragons eyes, and that he must choose his own path. upon receiving this information he thought "Bugger!!"

And here we end up at question time

At the moment I ride with a DX MTE 2 mode https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12623 that I think is great but I would like to build something using a P7 and a bigger battery pack. I have manufactured UHMW battery packs to take 2 and 4 x 18650 batteries for friends building their own lights but they don't know much about P7s.

1 - How can I build or where can I buy a good driver for a P7 that will give a high and low mode?

2 - Could I just run a battery pack to the torch that I am using and not blow it to bits?

Manufacturing the bits and pieces for housings and adaptors is no problem its just the electronics that have me stumped.


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Kaidomain has a three output level  driver  that works fairly well. I have built around a dozen lights with this driver and all are working fine. I do re-solder all wires since the provided ones are very thin and the soldering is coarse.
Have also built 8 direct drive P7 D bins, LEDs from Kaidomain as well. All are working fine. They can only handle a 2 cell parallel 18650 battery. The three cell packs always cause the LEDs to flash and turn off. Too many amps??? Not sure, but only the one or two cell packs work on my Direct Drive P7's.
Hope that helps. 
Personally I don't do any building with the P7 anymore. Small reflector and lens ,sub 20 mm, options sort of suck for the P7. This light with its 37 mm reflector does work well though. 
The XP-E LED and lenses from http://Cutter.com.au rock.. Set those up with a maxflex or fatman from Taskled.com and you will always have more light than you need.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> According to Murphy, both your lites will die


What's the other one, can't remember it exactly.
According to O'Tools law Murphy was an optomist? 

Searhtime, If you are handy at building from scratch, check out my High-Low P7 driver mod here. It uses a mofified switch and two 1.4amp current limiting boards.

You run your battery packs as 3.6 volt.
I ususlly solder together 4 x 18650's in parallel which has been working out great, but you can solder any number of 18650's together to make your run time longer or shorter.
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights26.htm


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## sdnative (Aug 10, 2008)

Great work trout, and digging on all the tech talk that's bouncing around. Makes this engineer at heart feel at home. 

My take is pretty simple ...you obviously get what you pay for. It's cheap, and performs like it. Not the first to state this either. 

And from those beam shots was expecting leprechauns to leap from the bushes to steal me lucky charms; what a fugly tint. Haven't seen neon greens like that since college. 

Temp is way way too high, which is huge deal. That heatsink base the LED is mounted to is total junk. I mean come on ...there is a big hole right under the LED where all the heat is being produced. There is no cross section for the heat to transfer through either. Plain stupid design; not to mention the epoxy deal. I bet the led die temp is off the charts!! ...poor little guy. Maybe that was why it was soo green; the green flash of a slow painful death. 

Means the usable life of the led will suffer big time, flux will constantly decline with use due to continued high temp exposure, as well as severely lackluster "true" output all along due to high temp flux dropoff affects. ROFL, 900 lumens, yeaaaah fricken right. That's the best part to me. Sad thing is that many will believe it. 

BTW, Trout, your light was better by a HUGE margin. I personally would pay more for that. 

And obviously assembled poorly; do I need to even go there. But cost is soo cheap, what can you honestly expect. 

All insults aside, this light is great though. Will get people riding more ...and the people who want the best will still spend their money for the real thing. And like Mark pointed out, if anything, longterm it will make more believers of us DIYer's who are truly pushing tech well past the OEM levels. 

Anyway ...feel better after finally reading through the post ...was really worried at first glance  Since just starting to get my own light thing rolling. 

Will still DX for the little gagets that beak after the first day of playing and prodding though. Love that place.

Rant rant rant...

~Chris

Random, any of you from San Diego, CA?


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

sdnative said:


> My take is pretty simple ...you obviously get what you pay for. It's cheap, and performs like it. Not the first to state this either.
> ...
> 
> do I need to even go there. But cost is soo cheap, what can you honestly expect.
> ...


In a thread 1-2 years ago on CPF we discussed how cheap a bike light could be and when the prices would come down dramatically. Here we are.

So what are we looking at, another 30$ for some quality control, better led and driver, customer service?

This will get more people riding, but its a little cheap at 80$ (selling for 130US$ here in NZ)... it would be good if it came in a kit with a helmet torch/mount so at least people would be able to get home, and not kill themselves when the light goes out bombing down a hill.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Troutie,
> 
> On the Ledil Iris, is it possible to remove just the upper part of the holder, and still have the lower part position the lens correctly. I know it probably won't hold it very well, but I'll deal with that.
> 
> ...


It would not be possible to remove the top and just leave the base as the optic clips in to the top of the holder and so the 2 bits would just be flapping about .

Acouple of pics to help out



















it does have a 1 mm lip round the edge which could be usefull for mounting
doesnt show up to well as the camera struggled to find a focus 
now I have had a real close up looksee I have a real stupid/ or fantastic :idea: but aint telling yet.


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## Fury25 (Oct 22, 2008)

*Possible upgrade*

Hi Guys,

I too have ordered some of these lights, but on further investigation these appear to have been 'inspired' not by Lupine's Tesla, but rather the Korean *"onethelight marrow".*

This light (based on its specs) is configured with the SSC P7 D bin - so maybe better at reaching the claimed 900 Lumen?????

*Link: **http://wonderbike.co.kr/shop/shop/item.php?it_id=1240825535*

*English Link*: *http://wonderbike.co.kr/shop/shop/largeimage.php?it_id=1240825535&img=1240825535_l1*

*QUESTION - ASSISTANCE REQUIRED*

Based on the above, I have ordered SSC P7 D bin stars to retrofit on the DX magic light, but the star has 2 +ive and 2 - ive terminals to which one can connect to the driver.

Which terminals do I solder to????


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Fury25 said:


> the star has 2 +ive and 2 - ive terminals to which one can connect to the driver.
> 
> Which terminals do I solder to????


one of each....your choice.

JZ


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Fury,

You need to connect the red wire to either of the pads labeled + and the black wire to either of the pads labeled -. Clean the pads and apply a little flux before soldering. Use a lead based solder if you can get one. Hopefully your light will have red and black wires like mine did. If your star looks like the one in your picture, you may need to do a bit of filing to get things to fit. The star in the light is round.

The Wonderbike onethelight looks very interesting and like it might be better built. If nothing else in comes with a warranty. The price looks a bit more reasonable (to compete against), as of today, it sells for about $142 (of 87 pounds for Troutie). Probably a bit more with shipping, etc. The onethelight sounds like it doesn't have any thermal regulation, and has the same silly user interface that makes you turn the light off to switch back to high mode. I like a user interface that cycles between high and low (like a car's highbeam switch).

The design of the DX lite is very similar, but you can tell just from the pictures there are some differences.

Anybody speak Korean, It might be interesting to order one of these.

I also found out something else about the DX lite that makes me want to lower my rating of it from "buy if you know how to fix it" to "probably best to stay away from".

The marking on the charger looks like a European CE marking. This would imply that it had passed some kind of safety review of its design. For those in the former colonies this is like a UL rating, except the CE rating is required in European countries.

On careful comparison with the official CE logo I found the DX lite CE logo on the charger is a bit off.










Hmmm ... looks bogus to me. The red logo is the one off the charger. The Black logo below it is the official CE mark layout.

I also found an interesting reference to bogus CE markings on wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_mark...using_CE_marks

My guess would be that the charger and battery pack in this light have not been reviewed by any safety organization at all. Li-Ion batteries have been known to explode. and/or burn.

Based on trouties experience with the charger running hot, I will be recharging my light out of doors. In a metal bucket. On a 50 ft extension cord, stretched as far from the house as possible .

Mark


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> I just did this little test to see how fast the temp ramps up CUT


Thankyou troutie for this great review and all those tech suggestion.:thumbsup:


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

Troutie I am a little concerned about what I read in your first post.

Where on earth did you get the idea of putting something hard, warm, and that diameter in your mouth and start sucking? 

what is the world coming to


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## kiodo (Oct 23, 2007)

troutie-mtb said:


> It is quite good
> 
> Still nothing too bad found yet but was a bit concerned about the swarf inside with the driver board . I was just going to reassemble it as it belonged to some one else but after I saw the swarfe it need cleaning out so dismantled it and found that the P7 on its star was glued to the heatsink with a clear epoxy .
> 
> ...


Troutie, how did you disassemble parts to this point? I've managed to dismount the thing, but stopped one pictur before the one I quote here. I'm a total zero in electronics, but I'd like to try to improve the DX light


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I also found out something else about the DX lite that makes me want to lower my rating of it from "buy if you know how to fix it" to "probably best to stay away from".
> 
> The marking on the charger looks like a European CE marking. This would imply that it had passed some kind of safety review of its design. For those in the former colonies this is like a UL rating, except the CE rating is required in European countries.
> 
> ...


I charge my lipo batteries in the fireplace. Still would be quite an event if one was to go thermal. Your link to wikipedia doesn't work. Is your assertion that the device couldn't get a CE stamp if the label doesn't match the dimensions of the official CE stamp? Seems like a stretch. It would be nice if there was a searchable database of CE/UL certifications like the FCC has.


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

unterhausen,

Wikipedia must have changed the link, try this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ce_mark#Rumor_about_confusing_CE_marks

or just read the entry for CE mark:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ce_mark

The point I was making is not about sloppy printing. A lot of Chinese companies put a mark on their products that looks a lot like the European CE mark (claiming it stands for China Export). The European CE mark is only allowed on products that have passed rigid safety, health, and environmental requirements. It is required thru-out most of Europe. It is quite expensive to test a product to meet CE requirements.

The Chinese CE mark is in my opinion deceptive. As far as I know, there is no testing to put the Chinese CE mark on a product. It looks a lot like the European one (see picture in an earlier post). It could lead unwary consumers to buy a product assuming it was safe. It seems pretty sleazy to me when you put this mark on a poorly built product that has potentially explosive li-ion batteries in it.

Mark


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Hi, anyone know any driver how of the pic, with the switch solder in the middle??










Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Rezzerected (Mar 1, 2009)

Well, I just came back from a shortened night ride and I'm quite disappointed.

I received my DX Bike Light a few days ago, and after it was fully charged, tested it out the first night with just a quick ride up and down the street and for less than a few minutes, while holding it in my hand without moving.

I don't have any experience with the P7 flash lights, but coming from a "120 lumens" LED flashlight I got from Sam's Club that I've been temporarily using as my bike light, I was pretty happy with the huge improvement. I also liked the beam pattern, as it was not too spotty and not too floody, and there wasn't a dark spot. From the packaging to the exterior build quality, it feels and looks pretty nice. There are no instructions or anything inside the packaging though.

I was really excited to finally get a chance to test it out on a night ride tonight, but about 10 minutes into my ride, the light quit working. While playing around with it I was able to get it to come on once but that was it. At this point it appears dead to me. The green light comes on when the battery pack is connected, but I also noticed that a couple of times that light was not coming on, despite it still being connected.

I have a feeling we're going to see a huge defective rate with these units. At $80, I feel like I just got duped considering this didn't even last more than 15 mins. I really know nothing about LEDs and while I'm a DIYer for some kind of projects, I really do not feel like brushing up on my weak electronics knowledge and learning more than I want JUST to make this light work. 

I purchased this knowing that it probably wouldn't last me very long but it would last long enough where I felt I got my $80 worth. I didn't expect it to die 10 mins into my ride. Thank god I was riding in the city and not going fast on a dark, downhill ride.

So my advice is: If you don't know how to fix this when it goes out, DO NOT waste your $80.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Rezzerected said:


> Well, I just came back from a shortened night ride and I'm quite disappointed.
> 
> I received my DX Bike Light a few days ago, and after it was fully charged, tested it out the first night with just a quick ride up and down the street and for less than a few minutes, while holding it in my hand without moving.
> 
> ...


Hi, I think that the problem is the poor quality of the driver. The problem could are that some component it have disolder. Dismantle the light and check with the picture of _troutie-mtb _are equal and don't missing some component.

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

> I was really excited to finally get a chance to test it out on a night ride tonight, but about 10 minutes into my ride, the light quit working. While playing around with it I was able to get it to come on once but that was it. At this point it appears dead to me.


It is looking like this DX light _is_ "very bad news" :bluefrown: It pisses me off when poorly designed products like this are sold. rft:

Sorry to hear of your troubles, Rezz. It sounds like a bad connection/solder joint maybe. If you open it up and poke around a bit you might be able to locate it....might not be too big a hassle to fix. I think there has been mention of some specific connections people have found to be bad, somewhere up above in this thread. One was in the battey pack, i believe.

I guess I will _not_ be recommending this thing to folks wanting to get into night riding cheaply. :nono:

JZ


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

I think if you read this thread you'll find enuff info to attempt to repair your light.

First, the good news. If the green led comes on every time you plug the battery in, then your battery is probably OK. The green led is driven by a voltage detector chip.

I'd open it the lite up, and look for little bits of aluminum all over the driver board. Remove those if you find them, an old toothbrush and rubbing alcohol work pretty well. If you find much there, the driver may be toast, but it's worth cleaning it up and seeing if it works. The brass ring the driver is soldered to comes out with a fair amount of force. You'll need to take it out to get at both sides of the driver. I popped it out using a flat blade screwdriver wedged in the slot the power wires come out thru.

If it still doesn't work, make sure the wires to the P7 are still soldered in place. Some folks have reported them coming loose.

If you have a fine tip soldering iron, you could try touching up the solder conenctions you can get to easily.

If you are feeling ambitious, and have some experience soldering surface mount parts, you could try replacing the resistors I did (see my earlier posts in this thread).

Good luck,

Mark


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Our club has ordered 5 of these lights. After reading these reviews, I have done some basic clean up of the lights by adding thermal compound and blasting these with compressed air to clear up any swarf. Each light has about 10 hrs total run time now. The longest ride has been about 3 hrs running 50/50 high and low. Mostly mountain biking.
0 failures/issues to date. 
We are pleased with the light and have just ordered another 10 for other riders.
My diy cutters triple q5/r2 at 700ma are slightly brighter with more throw. But for a handle bar light - the spread is fine.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Yeah, I agree that the main issue seems to be the amount of aluminum shavings, next is the weak solder joints on the LED wires.

Mine died a horrible death on the bench, but it did work for a while.
Hard to say what it was because I had been inside it a few times and resoldered several items.

That's ok, it's going to get an upgrade when I get a bit of time to work on it.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Our club has ordered 5 of these lights. After reading these reviews, I have done some basic clean up of the lights by adding thermal compound and blasting these with compressed air to clear up any swarf. Each light has about 10 hrs total run time now. The longest ride has been about 3 hrs running 50/50 high and low. Mostly mountain biking.
0 failures/issues to date. 
We are pleased with the light and have just ordered another 10 for other riders.
My diy cutters triple q5/r2 at 700ma are slightly brighter with a throw. But for a handle bar light - the spread is fine.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

heatstroke said:


> Our club has ordered 5 of these lights. After reading these reviews, I have done some basic clean up of the lights by adding thermal compound and blasting these with compressed air to clear up any swarf. Each light has about 10 hrs total run time now. The longest ride has been about 3 hrs running 50/50 high and low. Mostly mountain biking.
> 0 failures/issues to date.
> We are pleased with the light and have just ordered another 10 for other riders.
> My diy cutters triple q5/r2 at 700ma are slightly brighter with a throw. But for a handle bar light - the spread is fine.


heatstroke, does that mean that this light will not be as bright as a cutter XR-E R2 quad at1 amp with medium optic(my DIY light I use the most)? Both use 4 dies just in a different package so I thought there wouldn't be much in it.


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## vroom9 (Feb 24, 2009)

yetibetty said:


> heatstroke, does that mean that this light will not be as bright as a cutter XR-E R2 quad at1 amp with medium optic(my DIY light I use the most)? Both use 4 dies just in a different package so I thought there wouldn't be much in it.


Your XR-E light is pushing 1000ma and the P7 is only speced for 700ma.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> P7 is only speced for 700ma.


700ma per die x 4 = 2800ma total


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## bikerjay (Sep 16, 2007)

Will a hip CC or hipflex board fit inside this light head in place of the bad dx board.


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## troutie-mtb (Sep 20, 2007)

certainly not a hipflex Be a waste of a great driver too

you would get a B/Max flex in but then it would be no good with the P7

there is really not a problem can the busted ones not be replaced by DX s warranty 
or am I just an optimist


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## Itess (Feb 22, 2009)

bikerjay said:


> Will a hip CC or hipflex board fit inside this light head in place of the bad dx board.


I have read several successful reports about usage of this driver: KD Super Output SSC P7 LED Driver Board (Low/High/Middle,5.5V~15V) SKU: S005296.


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## Rezzerected (Mar 1, 2009)

Hey guys,

First of all, I'd like to ask for everyone's forgiveness for a question that's probably very noobish to most of you LOL.

I haven't heard great things about DX's customer service and I'd like to resolve the issue if I can so I don't have to eat up return shipping. I'd like to open this up to clean up the metal shavings and possibly see if I have a connection that came undone. I don't have the greatest soldering skills, but I feel comfortable enough soldering a wire back on if I have to. Soldering on a new resistor, that's a whole other thing and I'd have to feel a lot more secure about my skills before I attempt that. 

But I feel dumb as heck at the moment because I don't know how to get the LED and its components outside of the housing. Basically I have the lens cover and reflector off but I'm not sure as to how I should go about removing the rest out of the housing without damaging it. Please help me get past my first hurdle! Thanks in advance!


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Definately not as bright, I believe the SSCP7 typical numbers are 700lumens when driven at 2800ma (the quoted number is maximum). The DX light is driven at about 2.4 amps(if I am not mistaken) , so it is outputting about 600 lumens based on the spec sheets. 
Your 4xR2 at 1000ma is churning out about 880 lumens


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## jbassett (May 26, 2009)

heatstroke said:


> Your 4xR2 at 1000ma is churning out about 880 lumens


An XR-E R2 LED is rated at 250 lumens when driven at 1A, which makes 1000 lumens.
However, that it then drawing 4A which means shorter runtimes and more heat 
There is a balance in all things


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Rezzerected said:


> I haven't heard great things about DX's customer service and I'd like to resolve the issue if I can so I don't have to eat up return shipping.


Rezz, I've never dealt with their customer service, but in a post a while back from (I think) RandyBoy regarding the DX tr-801 torches he mentioned that DX has a return center in Miami FL. so maybe the shipping $ won't be too much. Unfortunately it took him _many_ e-mails and phone calls and many weeks to get the issue corrected. He did get what he wanted eventually. I believe the way to start the process is to open a return ticket somewhere on the DX website. Good luck, and let us know how it works out!

JZ


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

Rezz, here's the thread I mentioned above.

JZ


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Funny this should pop up, that's what I am doing right now.  

I have dealt with DX customer service several times.
The overall experience has not been very good.

They kept sending the wrong reflectors, even though they knew they were wrong.
I sent one batch back to Miami.
They said they got the return and would credit me the shipping cost and then send the correct reflectors.

I never recived the correct ones or the credit on the shipping. That was over a month ago.

When you go to the customer service web site and create a ticket, someone will handle that claim. The girl I have dealt with several times seems nice, but her replies are always like something she is reading off a stock reply form.

Once the rep contacts you and you reply to the customer service rep, you will not be able to contact them again.
You can only contact them if they contact you first and then a link will appear that you can click on and continue the dialog.

Just a heads up on what possibly to expect.
Your mileage may vary.

Back to contacting Dx to get this mess straightned out.
see ya


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## Jim Z in VT (Sep 9, 2007)

With Randy's difficulties with DX, the refund didn't come through until he got PayPal involved

JZ.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Jim,
Thanks for the tip, that's what I may end up having to do.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

We've just received a new batch of lights (2nd batch of 5 lights). They have lengthened the screw a couple of mm. So now about 5 threads engage the body.


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

JBassett,
Welcome to the Board. Following your posts over at CPF for a long time. Getting your technical expertise over here will be good for all of us.......:thumbsup:


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

jbassett said:


> An XR-E R2 LED is rated at 250 lumens when driven at 1A, which makes 1000 lumens.
> However, that it then drawing 4A which means shorter runtimes and more heat
> There is a balance in all things


Cheers, I am aware of that, but more suprised that it isn't as bright as heatstrokes tripple running at 700ma.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

yetibetty said:


> Cheers, I am aware of that, but more suprised that it isn't as bright as heatstrokes tripple running at 700ma.


Actually its 270lm @1A, so 880 for four is a reasonable estimate of output with optics losses included.


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## sdnative (Aug 10, 2008)

LOL ...I'm not at all surprised it's not as bright. 

It's cheap import junk; designed poorly on top of it.


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

gunna order me a 2nd DX light to get a total of 1200 min - 1800 max lumen for under $200 before they sell out completely. Both up front, 1 pointed straight for throw and wide + 1 angled down lower for seeing road-trail and wide.

Then later may buy a 3rd as a rear light with some red automotive lens repair tape on it !! - should be good for the world's brightest rear light blowing the current DiNotte 200L = $229 ! OUCH !! out of the water .

You can never have enough red rear light in the city IMHO.

ps. i went to your site sdnative, and the lights and specs look impressive too, but when i click on buy = "under construction, come back soon"


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## sdnative (Aug 10, 2008)

Yep, still workin away. No buy page in the next week either; but will be one soon. 

I have a "DIY light build article" coming up with Mountain Bike Action Magazine, and am trying to finish the entire site up and other production details in prep for that, rather than focusing on selling kits right now.

Can say though, I'm not planning on clearing the ankles with my pants in an attempt to compete w/DX. The low cost sprial of death; too much work and no $ in the pockets to show for it.

I’m still of the feeling you get what you pay for. If you want the best it costs money; it's always been like that. Anyone can put a number like 900 on the box and get a few suckas. Even if they deliver lackluster performance in the end …for that cheap I don’t think I even would be pissed off. 

Anway… “check back soon”


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Just a bit of info, but I have just noticed the thread on the "non diy" lights forum about the same DX light. Geoman is importing these lights and checking the quality before he sends them out.
It may be a better option for some.


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## Popper252 (Jan 24, 2007)

Yup, I just placed an order with him and I already have my Tracking Number. With DX it took a week just to ship it. 

I should have my light in a matter of days rather than weeks. 

Just a note, this is my second light  One from DX and now one from Geo.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Its a good idea to buy a light that has been gone over and had all the loose ends tied up.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Another update : 
Out of 10 lights, no issues with the lights but we have an issue with 1 charger. It would quit charging after about 1/2 an hr. 
Not sure why, it is not the battery since we tested a different charger. 
Looks like the original charger was overheating and tripping - note that I dont know enough to know if the charger has thermal protection.

But I tested it out of the housing and it charged the batt fully. So I drilled the charger housing and reassembles and it works.


----------



## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Heatstroke,
If you need another charger, PM me.

I reconfigured my battery pack into a 3.6v parallel arrangement, and so I am not using my charger.

I think I used it 2 or 3 times before my Dx light went kaboom.


----------



## raid (Sep 18, 2005)

Hello,
my charger came "death on arrival"
Can please somebody tell me colourcode or value for the burned resistor.It is the resistor behind the led, in the picture in the black circle :










thanks


----------



## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Hi, I can't help you with the codes, but if you live in the US and want my charger for $5, PM me.

It will be about $5.00 to ship it to us addresses.


----------



## raid (Sep 18, 2005)

Sorry, i live in germany..but the charger is very easy to open, maybe you can take a look inside ?
That would be great


----------



## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I plan to buy one of these lights and mod as per previous threads, is it possible to swap for a better colour led that isn't so green? Can I swap for a http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721 as I have read these are good.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Looks like red yellow gold on mine (2.4 ohms?) with a gold precision band (5%)

Mark


----------



## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I can't see the posts in correct order, do I need to change some settings.


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## lidarman (Jan 12, 2004)

This obviously doesn't kill the DIY market....it's a "pre built" DIY light. You get one and fix it or enhance it.

I just ordered one myself.


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## raid (Sep 18, 2005)

[email protected] said:


> Looks like red yellow gold on mine (2.4 ohms?) with a gold precision band (5%)
> 
> Mark


Thank you Mark, i hope that i can replace the resistor.

Thank you very much !


----------



## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

Mr AB said:


> I can't see the posts in correct order, do I need to change some settings.


open the thread .....
...... at the top of the thread is `Display Modes`
click on the dropdown arrow
select `switch to Linear Mode`

................ we`ve all been there! :thumbsup:


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

raid,

Forgot to mention it's at least a 1 watt or maybe even 2 watt resistor (bigger than usual).

Poke around on Digikey, you should be able to finding something up to 5 watts that you can make fit. Shipping to Europe will kill you, but you might be able to find a local source.

I'll have to fire my charger up and see what parts gets hot. I've never really run the light on the battery pack for long. I've been having to many cheap 18650s go poof on me lately.

Mark


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Update on light 11-15. 
This is our 3 batch of lights...taking us to 15 lights. 
I tore apart the lights to QC and clean up : 
1. All lights were clean inside - no swarf
2. Still using the longer screw on the mount .
3. One light was missing the insulating plastic washer and the LED was not epoxied down properly - it was loose!. That would have fried the led pretty quick if the driver had not shorted out due to the wires shorting across reflector.

You definately have to QC these lights...

Quick update : Light 15 with the loose led died due to a bad solder joint on the led. This led was AA'ed in and the solder joint fixed . no Problems.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Sounds like they are doing a bit better, eh?

That plastic washer was important on my light because they cut the hole in the reflector way too large.
The fit around the LED lens was sloppy, which let the refelector drop down closer to the LED + and - connections.

Any sort of reflector tilt side to side would short out the driver board.

Which was exactly what happened to my light. (my fault)

The washer was there to stop that from happening.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Update; light 16- 20 : Another batch of 5 lights. 

Again, 1 light with a loose led and missing plastic isolation washer.
Needed AA and a bit of quick scissor work on a plastic card...

No other issues with this batch - no swarf. 

Batch 5 on order ( no 21-25)


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Great to hear that the Quality seems to bee a little better!

Heatstroke where do you buy your batches? from DX or Geoman?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

DX for their free shipping. I am in Malaysia and shipping direct from China makes more sense than the US


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

So i took my 1st tumble with these light - a light rain, a newly paved road, kinda of oily, and taking a turn and down i went.

Anyways the 2 DX lights were working flawless b4 - during and after it, - even the o ring mounts held in place.

Now my knee-hand-and shoulder didn't fair as well but nothing that should stop me from going out again tomorrow !


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## lidarman (Jan 12, 2004)

I just got mine, charged it. Ran it at full power for 3.5 hrs. Worked really well. Took it apart, added a little thermal paste to make it better.

I do worry about how hot it gets. It cannot be touched after a couple of minutes. I devised a way to mount it on the helmet but wonder if this is a good idea as hot at it gets.....of course this was in my office and not moving, but still, it gets really hot.


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

Heatstroke, how long are you having to wait for your lights?
I ordered 2 from DX a week ago and the status still says: Waiting for supplier

Just wondering when I should expect to receive mine.
Let's just say I'm a little excited to get them and use them. 

We have a weekly night race series starting tomorrow and I wanna know how many races I am gonna have to still ride with my old crappy lights.


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## jbassett (May 26, 2009)

lidarman said:


> I do worry about how hot it gets.


I did some measured tests on mine and the temperature in static air is high, but well below the LEDs maximum rating. The chart attached is captured from a temperature sensor mounted in one of the recesses in the case at approximately the location of the LED in the case. After it stabilised on 'full' power I dropped it down to 'low' and let it stabilise again. I then swapped it to 'flash' but decided to stop at the point it wasn't increasing much as I had an early start the next day.

One good thing is that at least the case is getting hot which means it must be well bonded (thermally) to the LED; I'd be much more concerned if it was only warm or cool.


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## lidarman (Jan 12, 2004)

jbassett said:


> I did some measured tests on mine and the temperature in static air is high, but well below the LEDs maximum rating.


Nice plot. Thanks for sharing that data.

I was thinking of mounting mine to my helmet but worry that 90 C temps on a helmet near my head is not such a good idea. I figured the electronics would tolerate those temps.

Do the commercial lights made by NiteRider, etc get this hot on the housing?


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

your scalp is safe. LOL

We have been riding with very hot lights on our heads for many years.
Halogens were riping hot.
my HID's are way hot also

Feels quite nice on the fingers when it's cold out.
reach up and grab the light to warm up the hands a bit.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Thanks for the plot nice plot JB. A couple of thoughts:
- what was the ambient air temperature? This helps with understanding the rise.
- the outer fins on the case will not be anything even close to the junction temperature of the LED(s). Was this where the probe was?
- the case eventually will get hot even with poor bonding (the heat has to get out, the internal temperature rises to make this happen...).

Cheers


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## lidarman (Jan 12, 2004)

El34 said:


> your scalp is safe. LOL
> 
> We have been riding with very hot lights on our heads for many years.
> Halogens were riping hot.
> my HID's are way hot also


Really? I guess you have, I have not.

My halogen never got this hot, neither does my HID.

This is "I can't touch it" hot.

Plus, I haven't studied the problem but that much heat on the foam of a helmet cannot be a good thing.

90 C is near water boiling...very hot for organic life forms..Thus while boiled chicken is so yummy.


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## lidarman (Jan 12, 2004)

bradjackson said:


> Heatstroke, how long are you having to wait for your lights?
> I ordered 2 from DX a week ago and the status still says: Waiting for supplier
> 
> Just wondering when I should expect to receive mine.
> ...


I got mine last saturday after ordering it shortly before.

Hmmmm..

PS: If I was you, I would charge and test yours a full cycle anyhow before using it in a race given the QC issues described above.

Use your reliable unit until then.


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

my 32 watt halogen is much hotter than this both stationary and in the wind.

Either way, a light, be it Halogen, HID or LED, while on the helmet you also have the thickness of the helmet and it's rigid foam to give you insulation from the heat, imho.

ps. i also like to warm up my fingers on the light on cold rides


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> ps. i also like to warm up my fingers on the light on cold rides


If we stop, I'll have a hand wrapped around the helmet light and one on the bar light.
Takes my hands about 20-30 minutes to warm up on cold winter rides rides.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Update2 of light 16-20
One Battery charger has died. I've not stripped it down yet. It just shows the green light a few seconds after starting the charge. It may be the PCB as well on the light. I'll check and update later.


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## moggy82 (Jan 30, 2009)

Update from me:

I had one of the first ones, i ordered the day it came onto DX, done about 5 rides with it now. Last night was probably the wettest/nastiest ride i have ever been on and this light performed brilliantly and after inspecting it at home after the ride all was dry in the light, battery and connector. Where as my P7 torch on my bars had water on the reflector/under the glass. I have mounted mine on my head similar to the pic i have seen floating around using the o ring around the front opening. Very happy with it, especially after my leaving it on in my bag error!


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## tkstrong (Jul 16, 2009)

Hi guys,
Brand new here - First Post.

I just received 2 of these lights. As per the recommendations both here and over on C.Pforums I had a look inside to check them out. Im not a complete newbie to electrical things but am still pretty green ! The inside of mine had no shavings and in addition, both LED lights appeared to be well glued down to the star with some kind of heat past. I was not expecting this as to date I don't think anyone has experienced anything but epoxy holding things in.
One light had some frayed wire / rough solder job on the main power leads on the driver board - easily fixed. The other light was ok, except it was missing the plastic insulation ring which stops the reflector shorting out on the LED supply wires. Again, this was easily fixed by cutting a doughnut piece out of some clear plastic card.

I then AAA'd the two resistors on the top side of the driver - I think this has been mentioned around the place a bit. The idea is to hopefully create a heat bridge across to the Brass Pill... Unsure how successful this mod will be. Finished off by using arctic alumina on everything else that pressed in or screwed together. 

Just how much longer these mods will make it last - who knows.

I do have a question for those who are well versed in the electronics field... One of the lights , when plugged in, actually glows very slightly / dully. It is drawing current from somewhere and I can't figure it out. It is quite normal and is just as bright as the other light. There are no signs of problems... just that when you turn it off, hold it up close to your eye and cup your hands over it you can see the LED glowing slightly. Sometimes it even has a slight flicker but under a normal room light you would need to be very attentive to see the issue. In the dark it is quite obvious. Does anyone have any ideas what the issue may be? I can only think that the clicky switch is not really working that well and is leaking power?


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Update3. Light 21-25, 
Looks like they have done another minor mod to the light. The mcpcb of the LED is now held in place by 2 small screws and the epoxy is replaced with thermal compound. Moving in hte right direction.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Cool, so they drilled and threaded a couple screw holes.

Would like to see a pic of that if possible.

Thanks
Doug


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Nice to hear that they are improving their light!!

Looks like i will order one too soon :eekster: (just waiting for further improvements  )

keep us updated!!!!!!!


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

Thanks heatstroke, that is good news.
I am still waiting for my first 5 to arrive: 
2 ordered on 10 July & another 3 ordered on 16 July.

My order status on DX's site still says "Waiting for supplier"
Man these guys are slooooww!! But I guess that's the "price" we pay for free shipping!


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Sorry, did not take photos, and all the lights are now with their new owners. 
There is nothing much to see, I suspect they used self tappers screws and did not tap the holes.


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## Sanoske312 (Aug 4, 2008)

*Which Light To Get*

posted in wrong area sorry


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

*Recent P7 Modifications - Star Retained With New Screws*

Yuk - posting images is not working - I sort out what I've stuffed up...


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks heatstroke, was just curious.
Not much to see I suppose.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

OK - it was limitation of this site regarding size and number of photos. Here is a link to the content on the New Zealand Vorb mountain bike site. Sorry for the hassle: http://www.vorb.org.nz/building-night-lights-t55312-855.html#p2126396


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

Marc2c you say on that other site - nice mods btw:
"On a helmet they put my Lupine Wilma's 830 lumens to shame."

wow - this is before and after the mods right? 

Lupine Wilma 6 defeated


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## falldowngoboom (May 27, 2006)

Mark2c - GREAT PHOTOS of the new innards!!!!!!

Still waiting on my 3 lights to arrive, message now changed to "Order received - In stock" so hopefully they'll arrive in a week or two. My Jet Lites bit the dust (along with me on a steep rocky plunge - ouch) a week ago, and I'm looking forward to the new lights.

Question: with the apparent improvements (perhaps not quite complete "fixes") in the construction, are all your steps needed? Certainly opening up and cleaning the swarf and checking connections at a minimum seem warranted.

- If they are using some thermal paste, why remove it and replace it with your own? Was it too thick, crap application, poor quality paste, or something other?

- With the improved thermal transfer, even if I pull it apart to check the solder connections (EL34 and others had problems), is it necessary to replace the resistors? I am very uneducated in electronics, so forgive me if this a very pedestrian question. My electronics training is based mostly on me shoving paperclips into outlets and putting batteries on my tongue (no, not recently)

- If I should solder two resistors together and replace for good reasons, where is the best place for me to source such specific pieces - a hobby shop, electronics store, other ideas?

- Last question - I see you are using what I believe is conductive thermal paste, I only have non-conductive paste, is that a step backwards? Paste is cheap, and I can get some silver based paste easily. Again, electronics newbie here, hopefully not a totally stupid question.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

The mods I've done don't change the light output or beam shape.



wheeler26 said:


> Marc2c you say on that other site - nice mods btw:
> "On a helmet they put my Lupine Wilma's 830 lumens to shame."
> wow - this is before and after the mods right?


It is the beam shape, the Lupine does not have a hotspot which makes it great for the bar light.

FDGB, yes the swarf could start conducting at an awkward moment. IMHO the heatsinking design is marginal, well less than ideal, so the poor goo they use conspires to reduce life etc (still way better than halogen...), but importantly the surface mount resistor will fail due to being underspecified for the job it is doing.

Both the heatsink goo and the heatsink glue I use are not electrically conductive.

The two resistors to buy from any electronics shop etc is: "0.2 Ohm, 0.6 Watt".


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Going back to troutie-mtb post of June (first in this thread) the Chinese have been improving both the implementation and the assembly quality. It is probable they will get it sorted soon - which would be great for all of us! Consistently sorted - now that is another thing all together. I imagine the volumes being produced must be ramping up rapidly now.


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

a suit stopped me on the street today saying that he could see my bright light from blocks away down the street. Asked where he could buy it for his Motorcycle - i told him to look here.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

*Thanks geoman!*

I think we have to thank geoman for the infos he is giving to magicshine!! :thumbsup:

Look here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3021800&postcount=67


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## falldowngoboom (May 27, 2006)

Electronics question  - my local electronics shop is great (the also online electronics plus store), did not have the 0.2 ohm 0.6 watt, but had 0.2 ohm 0.5 watt resistors. I picked a couple of those up for a whopping $.50 each. Will those do the trick, or will it ultimately be no improvement over the surface mount resistor? They willl be getting a new shipment in a few days, so if needed I can leave it as is for now and get them in a week.

Is it more of a heat/surface mount or electronics improvement? Just curious.

Thanks for all the TREMENDOUS photos and information. I'm glad you guys (and gals) have nothing better to do. (just kidding... sort of :thumbsup: ).


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I got a replacement DX bike light today and can confirm that the new light now uses heat compound and screws. The strobe mode doesn't seem that fast like some torches as I can count the flashes, was the original light fast?


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I have just done a quick measurement of current being used and it appears to use 2.7 times less current in low mode.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

how many milliamps did you measure in low mode?


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

The measurements I took were from a split battery lead using a clamp meter.
I was only getting 1.2 Amps being drawn from the battery in high mode and 0.4 in low mode. I just though that this may help give a ratio of battery consumption in each mode.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

ah ok, was just curious about an actual figure because I didn't have a high figure to do the math with.

My DX light blew up before I was able to get good measurements and it supposedly was running 2.4 amps on high, not the full 2.8 amps.


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

Is the 1.2 Amps about right for an 8.4 volt battery in high mode?
If so I guess the low mode is around 0.8 amps at the led?


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## falldowngoboom (May 27, 2006)

FWIW - three lights received - two had the screws to fasten the star down, the third had the holes tapped and ready, but was completely missing the screws (great quality control - how'd they miss that). There were metal shavings in all three lights, so a high power vacuum or blower should be used at a minimum if you don't want to completely pop the brass fitting out. All had a reasonable amount of (hopefully) thermal paste in relevant areas, though far from perfect. So far, batteries and chargers are behaving normally.

As far as soldering the replacement resistors in, you guys are nuts (and more power to those who made that mod)! That is a seriously small piece of work you've been able to accomplish, jeweler's loupe recommended indeed. I decided to leave it alone and see what happens.

Two steps forward, one step back.

I guess by the time these ~$80 lights puke out, I destroy them somehow, or they get permanently "borrowed" by my wife for her night riding escapades, they'll have these small issues resolved and the next set will be even better.


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## jbassett (May 26, 2009)

Mark2c said:


> Thanks for the plot nice plot JB. A couple of thoughts:
> - what was the ambient air temperature? This helps with understanding the rise.
> - the outer fins on the case will not be anything even close to the junction temperature of the LED(s). Was this where the probe was?
> - the case eventually will get hot even with poor bonding (the heat has to get out, the internal temperature rises to make this happen...).
> ...


Thanks Mark,

The ambient temperature was 23°C.

The sensor was connected in the base of the scallops where the fins are very short. An optical IR thermometer gave virtually the same readings. There will be a temperature gradient from the LED chip to the outer case, but it's difficult to quantify. Unfortuntely it is impossible to measure the junction temperature of the LED with destroying it; pity they don't build in a temperature sensor element. I do have a thermocouple that could be mounted to the LED's base, but even doing that would affect the temperature achieved as the case couldn't be closed properly.

Agreed the case would eventually get hot, but the rate of rise suggests the bonding is pretty good; the rate of rise is as fast the MTE P7 torch I have and that's after optimising the heat flow from the LED to case.

I'll see if I can get the themocouple onto the LED base without a significant impact to case integrity.

Regards
_ ___ _ Jan


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

My DX light go on 1.5A on hi mode at full charge batt, this was a little surprise for me  I find that it pretty warm at "no riding mode" and when I ride the temperature is ok - not very hot, so I think that 1.5A set because of that reason, to against owerheating. Ha, I can imagine If it goes оn full power 2.8A, definetly big owerhiting.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Where do you measure the current - at the led or the battery. 
If it is at the battery then the total power is about 12.6W (your battery at full charge is 8.4V), assume 85% efficiency of the driver, then the LED is pulling about 2.8A.


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

heatstroke said:


> Where do you measure the current - at the led or the battery.
> If it is at the battery then the total power is about 12.6W (your battery at full charge is 8.4V), assume 85% efficiency of the driver, then the LED is pulling about 2.8A.


Between the batt and driver. Why do you taking the starting point is a power - 12.6W? (maybe I am understand you incorrect) The current is a primary and actual parameter, we can measure it and calculate the real power we have, but not to take the theoretical value of power and calculate the current and hope it be there.


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

jetigm said:


> My DX light go on 1.5A on hi mode at full charge batt, this was a little surprise for me  I find that it pretty warm at "no riding mode" and when I ride the temperature is ok - not very hot, so I think that 1.5A set because of that reason, to against owerheating. Ha, I can imagine If it goes оn full power 2.8A, definetly big owerhiting.


at about 1.5 A then the light would only put out about 400 lumens - but this is brighter than that by at least a few hundred lumnes i think


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## jbassett (May 26, 2009)

wheeler26 said:


> at about 1.5 A then the light would only put out about 400 lumens - but this is brighter than that by at least a few hundred lumnes i think


The 1.5A is from the battery, not to the LED. The previous posts clearly state the LED is at probably at about 2.8A which will give the full (nominal) 700 lumens.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

deleted due to duplication


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Cause the LED maximum current is defined at LED and not at the battery . The P7 led is 2.8 Amps max. As you rely on drivers to regulate the current to the led, you will not be 100% sure what is drive current unless you know exactly the driver efficiency. 

Typical drivers are 80-90% efficient. 
So if you had measured 1.5A at the battery and you know your battery voltage then you can estimate the current at the LED. 

The DX lights battery is configured 2s2p (li-ions). Fully charged is 8.4V...... and this means about 2.8A at the led assuming 85% driver efficiency


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Yes, I agre with you, but the "Driver to LED" current cant be higher of "Batt to Driver" current, so if I have the 1.5A between the batt and driver it only be the less current on led, that's what I am try to say previously.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

jetigm said:


> Yes, I agre with you, but the "Driver to LED" current cant be higher of "Batt to Driver" current, so if I have the 1.5A between the batt and driver it only be the less current on led, that's what I am try to say previously.


You're incorrect on this point. The battery to driver current in a buck type (voltage reducing) driver will be lower than the driver to LED current when the battery voltage is higher than the LED Vf.


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## jbassett (May 26, 2009)

Vanvbiker is correct and that is the whole purpose of these drivers. A single LiPo cell can't always produce enough voltage to drive a P7 LED (or Cree XP-E, XR-E or MC-E LED for that matter) at full current; they can require 4.2V to achieve the rated current due to manufacturing tolerences. Using 2-cells in series allows the required voltage to be achieved without having to boost it, which is much more efficient.

In simple terms these switch-mode drivers take in pulses of power and gives them back out again at the desired current. If the required voltage is less than the input then the output voltage is reduced, which requires less input current to give the same power. Obviously nothing is 100% efficient so more power has to be input than output, with the inefficiency being converted to heat by the driver.


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## OldMTBfreak (Apr 8, 2006)

What you are missing is power. Power (watts)=volts X amps. So, if the controller for the led is outputting 2.8 amps at 3.5 volts, this is 9.8 watts. The controller is about 90% efficient. So the controller draws 10.9 watts from the battery to input 9.8 watts into the led. Now if the battery voltage is 10.9 volts (keep the math easy)(10.9V X 1A = 10.9W), then 1 amp is drawn from the battery. If the battery is 5.45 volts, then 2 amps are drawn from battery. easypeasy James


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> You're incorrect on this point. The battery to driver current in a buck type (voltage reducing) driver will be lower than the driver to LED current when the battery voltage is higher than the LED Vf.


YES, you right. Sorry for my incorrect post's at this point, i haven't much experience at step-down drivers yet. I thought about this and measure the driver to led current and it was 2.4A and batt to driver current was 1.5A. 
Thank's for an explanation.


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Does anyone know what PWM controller is used in this driver?


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

The driver used is the SM5241. If you read Chinese: http://www.micro-bridge.com/data/semi-micro/SM5241.pdf

Looks like an interesting chip. Wish there was an English translation for the pdf file.

Mark


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

SM5241-2MHz, 36V, PWM control of high-power LED driver circuit 
Overview 
SM5241 is a continuous current mode step-down switch, constant 
Flow, high efficiency LED driver controller. Input Voltage 5.5V ~ 
36V, particularly suitable for wide input voltage range applications. As a result of external 
MOSFET control, it can drive multiple or more series, in parallel 
High-power LED. 
SM5241 external circuit is very simple, just have to go through an external 
Resistors set the output current. SM5241 using current detection methods, the precision 
Reaches 5%, sufficient to meet the general brightness of the lighting display and the stability of 
Requirements. Up to 25W of output power. 
SM5241 hysteresis due to control of a load transient 
Have a very fast response speed of the input voltage with a high inhibition 
比. Inductor current ripple of 20%. Maximum operating frequency can be 2MHz. 
Features 
Operating frequency up to 2MHz 
5.5V to 36V input voltage 
Maximum luminance control frequency of 20KHz 
Hysteresis control: no compensation 
± 5% current accuracy 
5V, 2mA-chip voltage regulator 
-40 To 125 degrees Operating Temperature Range 
Small SOT23-6 package 
Apply 
Construction, industry, environment lighting 
Automobile taillights, fog lamps 
MR-11, M-R16 and other LED lights 
Lights, emergency lights, advertising lights, decorative lights 
Typical applications map (350mA)


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## AlisterG (Nov 14, 2008)

That's interesting, if I understand correctly, the driver could run 4S1P MC-E's with a 4 or 5 cell Li-ion. Wish DX would sell the can on its own.


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Who know were to by this SM5241 with shipping to europe. Or maybe anyone suggest a same drivers by another vendors.


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

I FINALLY received my first 3 DX bike lights today!! Ordered on 16 July.

I was so hoping to have them for last night's night race. 
The tracking records show that the parcel arrived at my local post office at 17:30. The race started at 18:00. Talk about close but no cigar!!

Anyway I picked them up this morning and now I feel like a kid at Christmas time. Can't wait for it to get dark so I can see just how bright these things are.

I've had some fun today at the office though, people seem to have a natural inclination to look into it and then turn it on. It's fun watching their reaction.
Something like mosquitoes being drawn to those blue bug zapping lights. LOL


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## Jasjaz (Jul 24, 2009)

Has anyone identified whether the lights from DX show any of the modifications that Geoman has suggested and obtained from the manufacturer?


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

My recent light from DX has the thermal paste mod and the led screwed down. For the money they are great lights, I should of got 2. The only think going against them is the quality control but this can be easily rectified if you can inspect them before use.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Just wondering....Has there been any more reports of people buying these getting the "greenish" light tint that was reported with the early buyers? For me that was the deal killer. If the new ones are a nice bright white I just might have to reconsider getting one. Anyone out there have any photos of the new ones ( purchased in the last 30 days ) ??


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I will post up a comparison shot between my fenix l2d q5 and the dx bike light, are white wall photos ok?


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

In the last two months I know of 5 of these delivered - none were green - all pure white.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Mr AB said:


> I will post up a comparison shot between my fenix l2d q5 and the dx bike light, are white wall photos ok?


Wall photos would be my last choice. In order to judge throw and beam pattern it really is best to do an outside photo, preferably over a natural surface in the 150 to 200ft range with some objects spaced out at different distances for reference. With a wall photo we might be able to discern tint..maybe. Anyway, you asked...


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

Havn't had chance to do any night photos but my friend got his dx light today.

Mine is a warm white/slight yellow tint and his
is a cooler white/blueish tint but seems brighter.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Mr AB said:


> Havn't had chance to do any night photos but my friend got his dx light today.
> 
> Mine is a warm white/slight yellow tint and his
> is a cooler white/blueish tint but seems brighter.


You wasn't expecting consistency........ was you?


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

Mr AB said:


> Havn't had chance to do any night photos but my friend got his dx light today.
> 
> Mine is a warm white/slight yellow tint and his
> is a cooler white/blueish tint but seems brighter.


i also find my 3rd latest dx light seems brighter overall, but when i look at them both head on they seem the same - either way it's good.


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

*Better battery case?*

One area where this light system could stand some improvement is the battery pack. The current fabric case and velcro attachement leaves a lot to be desired. Last night whilst out testing this light for the first time the velcro gave way and ejected the battery, leaving it dangling by the cable. :eekster: This was on a paved trail ride so I can't imagine this would hold up to any serious off-road riding. 

There are definitely some better attachment methods out there. In particular Dinotte seems to have one of the better ones with a hard shell case and strong velcro straps that provide a very solid attachement to the bike.

Curious to hear if any of you have found better ways to mount the battey?


----------



## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

Did you not thread the square loop through the second square loop?


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Mr AB said:


> Did you not thread the square loop through the second square loop?


Huh, is that even possible? It's defintely not obvious if that's what you're supposed to do, but I'll check that out when I get home.


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## UCLA ANDY (Jun 28, 2008)

Forty miles, four rides of single track and XC and no issues with the battery pack. The light slightly moves up down on rough terrain. No big deal, because the light is bright.


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

I have been threading the square loop through the other one, but I am not convinced that this will hold if the velcro comes loose.
I think what will be best is another velcro strap to go around the whole battery & frame, just to be on the safe side.


----------



## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

Did our first 3hour plus ride last night- some impressions
1) Wish I had a remote switch to move between modes- not a bad thing just a wish
2) I use the Mawri offset mount I got from EI34- works great love it.
3) Battery came with no velcro strap just the case- I use an old tennis elbow strap (2" wide) to hold to my stem- works great no issues
4) Battery was good to go- half the ride or so on hi other half on low- took an hour and a half for it to charge this morning.

Light is pretty white- at this price I might pick up a second light for the bars. For sure I will get a second battery for the real long epics (price is very good).

Longevity will be the next test and for that ONLY time will tell.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Good report!

Glad the DX to Marwi adapter is working out for you also.


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

El34 said:


> Good report!
> 
> Glad the DX to Marwi adapter is working out for you also.


I am really looking forward to getting the parts I ordered from you to finish those Mawri Conversions to P7.

The DX works great- but I would like the option of a back up and helmet mount.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Every year older you get, your eyes gather less and less light.

I am 50+  

I am up to the point where I am going to run 2 Marwi P7's on the handlebars and one on the helmet this fall and winter.

I only need to run one of the Marwi's on low for the long uphill climbs.
But on the decents, I will have all 3 Marwi P7's blazing baby.  

Probably see some fall leaves catch on fire after the bike rips past. :thumbsup:


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Anyone helmet mount these?

Also looking for an option to mount one on either side of the chin bar of a full face. Two of these should light things up nicely for night time DH laps.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

I am not familiar with how that chin bar works.
Got some good pics of a helmet and how I could possibly get a Marwi to work with that?

Cyclist, spelunkers, adventure racers, divers, hunters, gun mounted lights.

I am up for all of that.


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## ItsJustMe (Aug 19, 2009)

Excellent thread here guys, I just discovered it. FWIW, I ordered mine last week from GeoMan and got it in on Friday, and posted my stuff over on LiveJournal here:
http://johnridley.livejournal.com/266955.html

My stuff is not nearly as thorough as what's already on this thread, but it may show that the manufacturer has moved forward on having better QC and better assembly technique. I found no machining flecks or crud inside mine at all, and there was thermal paste everywhere that it should have been, in appropriate quantities.

I have read that GeoMan has worked with the manufacturer on these points, so that could be why the quality has improved. Whatever the reason, I'm glad it got sorted before I bought mine to head into fall/winter commuting season, when I'll be running my lights 90 minutes a day.


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

ItsJustMe - nice review

"What I'd like to see:
I'd prefer that the cord was shorter, and that an extension cord was either included or made available for those wishing to helmet-mount. There's no earthly reason for the cord to be nearly this long except for helmet mounting.
"

Agreed !!



"Took a little video of what my setup looks like from the side of the road. Even though in general the planet bike superflash is a pretty good taillight, in this video you can see that it's completely obliterated by the Dinotte."


I also put one of these magic shines on the rear with a strip of red automotive lens repair tape over it and it will easily overpower the much more expensive Dinotte and super flash at the same time. I can see it light up stop signs blocks and blocks and blocks behind me ))


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

ItsJustMe said:


> Excellent thread here guys, I just discovered it. FWIW, I ordered mine last week from GeoMan and got it in on Friday, and posted my stuff over on LiveJournal here:
> http://johnridley.livejournal.com/266955.html
> 
> My stuff is not nearly as thorough as what's already on this thread, but it may show that the manufacturer has moved forward on having better QC and better assembly technique. I found no machining flecks or crud inside mine at all, and there was thermal paste everywhere that it should have been, in appropriate quantities.
> ...


I just checked out your Journal entry and I must say, you did a very good write up...photos look great as well..:thumbsup:


----------



## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

kwarwick said:


> One area where this light system could stand some improvement is the battery pack. The current fabric case and velcro attachement leaves a lot to be desired. Last night whilst out testing this light for the first time the velcro gave way and ejected the battery, leaving it dangling by the cable. :eekster: This was on a paved trail ride so I can't imagine this would hold up to any serious off-road riding.
> 
> There are definitely some better attachment methods out there. In particular Dinotte seems to have one of the better ones with a hard shell case and strong velcro straps that provide a very solid attachement to the bike.
> 
> Curious to hear if any of you have found better ways to mount the battey?


I wrap a velcro strap around the entire battery and stem once on the bike. It hasn't come loose on me yet, but this is just a precaution.

Something else I have done is to take a piece of old MTB tube the length of the battery and stretch it over the battery. This provides some protection should the battery ever fall out of its fabric pouch. It also gives the battery a tighter fit into the pouch, and will make it more waterproof.


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## hiroshima (Apr 17, 2006)

Does anyone know if there is a possibility of running this light off of Dinotte batteries. I like the form factor of the Dinotte batts and they are weather sealed and come with a reliable charging system. From my eyes it looks like they use the same connectors, but I don't know the voltage output of either the Dinotte or the Magicshine.

I have a 400L and an upgraded Minewt that I use, but think adding this as a bar mount and moving one of the lights to my helmet for ~800-1000 lumens.


----------



## ItsJustMe (Aug 19, 2009)

hiroshima said:


> Does anyone know if there is a possibility of running this light off of Dinotte batteries. I like the form factor of the Dinotte batts and they are weather sealed and come with a reliable charging system. From my eyes it looks like they use the same connectors, but I don't know the voltage output of either the Dinotte or the Magicshine.
> 
> I have a 400L and an upgraded Minewt that I use, but think adding this as a bar mount and moving one of the lights to my helmet for ~800-1000 lumens.


All it really needs is something around 7-8 volts at 3 amps. You should be able to run it off of anything that can deliver that, all you need is the right connector, and it's a pretty standard looking connector.

However, the connectors are not exactly the same. According to one source, the electrical part inside is the same (I can't verify) but if you look carefully, on the Dinotte, the male electrical part has a female waterproof surround. On the Magicshine, the male electrical part has a male waterproof surround.

ASSUMING that the electrical part is the same, you could use these together but there would be no waterproofing at the electrical connection. You'd have electrical male to female, but waterproofing male to male and they would not overlap and provide any seal.

Personally I'm just going to use some waterproofing tape on the Magicshine and call it good. Really, a baggie wrapped tight around the wire and zip tied with a little dob of silicone inside (if you're really paranoid about it) and then put into the carrier would do just fine too. I'd probably skip the silicone myself.


----------



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2007)

Based on the parts used in the driver for this light (at least the one I took apart), I would not use much beyond 8.2 volts as a battery source. This works fine with a couple of LiIon cells wired in series (or a 2s2p configuration). 6 NiMh cells wired in series should work as well. The input filtering capacitor (in the unit I dissected) is rated for 10 volts, so even something like a 9.6 NiMh battery (when fully charged, which can put out more than 10 volts) could blow the cap, and make your lite not work.

The folks who manufacture these lights cut costs to the bone. If it's 1 cent cheaper to use a 10 volt rated cap vs a 16 volt cap, they choose whichever is cheaper. I can understand their desire to keep costs low, but it makes it hard for someone who wants to use different batteries.

Note: a higher voltage battery may seem to work for a while. A cap rated at 10 volts can tolerate 16 volts for a while, and then suddenly go "zort" on a long, steep, very dark downhill. Don't assume that just because a battery you hook up to the light works in a short test it will continue to do so.

Mark


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

If anyone interesting about rebuilding the electronic, I can post my experience (scheme, PCB, firmware). After upgrade I have "low"->"mid"->"Hihg" modes. Now I have more usability and reliabiliti. I throw away "computer" (one PCB side) and made my own which based on ATTINY13.


----------



## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

Hi, you programmed the ATTiny13?

I have been curious about that for a while.
I looked into a while back, but never followed up.

I would like to see your schematic, pcb and info please.
Thanks,
Doug


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

jetigm said:


> If anyone interesting about rebuilding the electronic, I can post my experience (scheme, PCB, firmware). After upgrade I have "low"->"mid"->"Hihg" modes. Now I have more usability and reliabiliti. I throw away "coputer" (one PCB side) and made my own which based on ATTINY13.


would it be possible to offer these new drivers for others to upgrade? :thumbsup:

how much would that cost?


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

El34 said:


> Hi, you programmed the ATTiny13?
> 
> I have been curious about that for a while.
> I looked into a while back, but never followed up.
> ...


Ok, soon I will post the info.


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Whitedog1 said:


> would it be possible to offer these new drivers for others to upgrade? :thumbsup:
> 
> how much would that cost?


If you mean to by my upgraded drives? - no, but you can build your own if you have proper skills.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

Ok!  

Hopefully someone with propper skills will build some for us guys who like to upgrade our dx p7 light!

is it also possible to raise the drive current on high from 2.4 to 2.8A?? :eekster:


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Whitedog1 said:


> Ok!
> 
> Hopefully someone with propper skills will build some for us guys who like to upgrade our dx p7 light!
> 
> is it also possible to raise the drive current on high from 2.4 to 2.8A?? :eekster:


Yes, but in that case you have more heat and less non riding time with "on" light. Just put the lower risistors in driver side (inductor side) on the bard.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> Ok, soon I will post the info.


Ok, thanks, I'll check it out as soon as I see it posted

Appreciate it :thumbsup:


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

Here we go  My project, enjoy
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6045361#post6045361


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## serotonin (May 22, 2008)

What's the safe way to get your light disassembled past this point? It seems the two holes which are drilled into the inner silver ring play a key in this. Is it threaded or something? I tried to move it around with a small screw driver but didn't want to try with much force, as to not smoke the new light.

I poped out that plastic insulator ring and tried loosening the two small #1 phillips screws in there, they were pretty damn loose. I don't even think they're threading up to whatever is back there, feels stripped out big time.

Thanks for any assistance!










PS: It took about two weeks from order to delivery for this light. It is a very nice white, no noticeable green tint. I fired the light for about 30 seconds to make sure it works.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Hi NT (neuro-transmitter), the aluminium is threaded. Info on how to deal with it is here: http://www.vorb.org.nz/building-night-lights-t55312-855.html?hilit=mark2c#p2126396. Hope that it is helpful.


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

serotonin said:


> What's the safe way to get your light disassembled past this point? It seems the two holes which are drilled into the inner silver ring play a key in this. Is it threaded or something? I tried to move it around with a small screw driver but didn't want to try with much force, as to not smoke the new light.
> 
> I poped out that plastic insulator ring and tried loosening the two small #1 phillips screws in there, they were pretty damn loose. I don't even think they're threading up to whatever is back there, feels stripped out big time.
> 
> ...


A pair of long nose pliers will do. Stick the points into the 2 holes on the aluminium ring and carefully turn it counter-clockwise.


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

El34 said:


> Glad the DX to Marwi adapter is working out for you also.


When you use that adapter with the DX light, are you able to adjust the angle up or down? 
On the bars this wouldn't be a concern obviously because you can just tilt the whole mount up or down, but on a helmet, I'd be limited to where I can place it (because of the helmet vents), so I'm wondering if I can just angle it up or down.

From the pics on your site it looks like it can, by just loosening the big bolt, adjust angle and tighten bolt. Sound right?


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

Yes it allows for up and down adjustments


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Update Light 20-25
25 lights in total now with our club...
2 failed this weekend. We get a green battery indicator when the lamp is plugged in to the battery but no power to the LED. I've checked the LEDS and they are still good. So it must be the driver board that has died. 

Hopefully this will not occur again with the others. 

Time to talk to DX.....


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Suggest a check of the low ohm resistors - their rated power is being exceeded.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Mark2c, I assume you are replying to my 2 light failure. Anyway I checked both lights and the low Ohm resistor, and they seem good. My MM does not have the resolution to measure that low (min 0.1 ohm) but I do get continuity across the resistors. Any other ideas ?


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

Does anyone know what an equivalent replacement driver for this light would cost from DX?
Which drivers would be compatible?


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## jetigm (Apr 14, 2009)

heatstroke said:


> Any other ideas ?


Check the stabilizer "in" & "out" voltage.
Check the pin 7 (PWM out) of SOIC8 controller. Logical "0" present cause the P7 off, two different types of PWM present cause the "mid" and "flash" mode. This is the final point to ensure that "computer" is work. So if after clicking the switch the status of PWM out pin would not change - the "computer" is not working.
If "computer", current limiting resistors and P7 is OK it seemed to the PWM controller (on driver side) is not working. 
Check the switch also.


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## heatstroke (Jul 1, 2003)

Switch is OK - I checked continuity through it. So on to Pin 7 Output. 

I plugged Pin 7 out into an exoquantum analizer and powered up throught the flux capacitor a nominal voltage of 3.3V. Pin 9 then gave up and went home for a beer. 

Sorry mate - what you wrote is pretty close to swahili to me. My electronic engineering is limited to V=IR and a few other simple equations. 

If someone can translate, it'd be much appreciated.
Cheers
Rich


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

heatstroke said:


> Switch is OK - I checked continuity through it. So on to Pin 7 Output.
> 
> I plugged Pin 7 out into an exoquantum analizer and powered up throught the flux capacitor a nominal voltage of 3.3V. Pin 9 then gave up and went home for a beer.
> 
> ...


I'll take a stab at it...I think he is saying if pin 7 has no voltage ( during any of the mode changes ) ( Pin 7 being the PWM ( pulse width modulation ) output that controls the mode output of the LED ) THEN...something is wrong with the driver ( chip )


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

Anyone found a proper charger, other than the charger for the Canon BP-511? My charger was DOA. The charger led is always green. 
I emailed DX but they don't bother to answer, so I must find other way to charge the batt. pack.
Do you think 4 18650 protected cells would power the light properly? That way I could charge them individually.


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

Geoman sells chargers for the DX light and he is state side.


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## bravellir (Nov 24, 2008)

tks, but I’m in Europe and was trying to find a something this side.


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## mojojojoaf (Sep 9, 2008)

ooh yeah- sorry bro. good luck.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

The battery pack has a single protector PCB and 4 x 18650 batteries. As such any standard 7.2V Li-ion charger will do the job. 

I've used a Kento charger and it works well (faster too, but not enough to cook the batteries). 

Don't use a fast battery charger (eg fast drill or RC) as these will be cheap slow charge cells.


----------



## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

shirk said:


> Anyone helmet mount these?
> 
> Also looking for an option to mount one on either side of the chin bar of a full face. Two of these should light things up nicely for night time DH laps.


Its not a full face, but this old VistaLite Nitestick helmet mount works well on my Fox Flux. The velcro strap would easily run around a chin bar. Battery currently running on the back of the neck tensioner, but has easily long enough cord to stick it into the top of a camelback or on the upper back of the helmet.




























Took these out for their first ride at Majura in Canberra on the weekend while at the World Champs. Beam was great, white, no yellow. Bar clamp worked fine. Was running a Light & Motion HID on my helmet and the combo worked well. No probs with the battery bag, wrapped around the stem fine and shook the sh!t out of it without issue.

I pulled it apart pre ride and found no swarf and there is thermal paste in there...

Will probably get another one to replace the much larger HID.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

*Helmet Mounts...*

Subtle Adjustment for clarity & my helmet - using a spare Lupine mount...


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## 96m2comp (Oct 12, 2007)

Piker,

Did you by chance try removing the bottom "bracket" of the Magicshine, and see if the light would mount to the Vistalite helmet mount just like the old Vistalites? I was "Shocked" when I saw your pictures as I was going to try using my Vista helmet mounts! lol

Chris


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## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

96m2comp said:


> Piker,
> 
> Did you by chance try removing the bottom "bracket" of the Magicshine, and see if the light would mount to the Vistalite helmet mount just like the old Vistalites? I was "Shocked" when I saw your pictures as I was going to try using my Vista helmet mounts! lol
> 
> Chris


I did, but the supplied screw is not long enough. The light housing is also a little large, so it doesn't fit snuggly into the vistalite mount. I'll find a longer screw and see how that goes, but for now the rubber ring is very secure, at least as secure as it is when bar mounted...


----------



## drew2002 (Oct 23, 2008)

Just received my light from GeoMan--thanks dude! I noticed when I disassembled it there was no sharf (sp?) and fortunately there was thermal paste all around the edges. Haven't tried it out on ride yet, but hoping to go tonight. When I turned it on, I just about blinded myself, even not looking directly into it. Look forward to seeing how it will fair on the trails.

Where are people mounting the battery pack? I zip-tied it on the back of my saddle, just above my bike bag.


----------



## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

Happy night riding with your new light.
If you are mounting the battery near the saddle, then where are you mounting the light head?
There is no way my cable would be long enough to reach from the handlebars to the saddle.

I wrap mine around the stem, no issues so far.


----------



## Hudnut (Apr 12, 2005)

Can anyone explain how that nylon battery bag is supposed to mount? Mine has 2 loops that appear to have no purpose. It looks like they are for an additional strap but if I wrap the flap around the stem and velcro it there one of the loops is covered. Anyone have a battery mounting pictures.


----------



## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

bradjackson said:


> Happy night riding with your new light.
> If you are mounting the battery near the saddle, then where are you mounting the light head?
> There is no way my cable would be long enough to reach from the handlebars to the saddle.
> 
> I wrap mine around the stem, no issues so far.


The newest lights from Geoman have a longer cable. Including the section on the battery, the total length is about 53 inches.


----------



## johnnyspoke (Sep 15, 2005)

Hudnut said:


> Can anyone explain how that nylon battery bag is supposed to mount? Mine has 2 loops that appear to have no purpose. It looks like they are for an additional strap but if I wrap the flap around the stem and velcro it there one of the loops is covered. Anyone have a battery mounting pictures.


Kind of hard to explain, but I've found that I can wrap the velcro of the bag around my stem, and it holds fine like that. If you take the plastic loops, you can turn one sideways and push it through the other one, when it straightens out, it locks together for extra security. Although, to be honest, I've never had the bag come loose, and I've used it maybe a dozen times so far.


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## CathastrophiX (Sep 28, 2008)

Headlamp version available at DX now:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

CathastrophiX said:


> Headlamp version available at DX now:
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489


Yeah, just saw that. They're including a headband (which can easily be converted into a helmet mount with some velcro) AND it's a buck cheaper.......BUT, it says 3 modes whereas the new ones that Geoman is selling are now 5 modes. Also, do the new ones at DX have the longer cord? Hmmm, inquiring minds wanna know.


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## seeker (Feb 15, 2004)

5 modes?

the one i got last week from geoman has 3 - h-m-s


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

seeker said:


> 5 modes?
> the one i got last week from geoman has 3 - h-m-s


They just changed them to: high - med - low - strobe - sos.


----------



## one piece crank (Sep 29, 2008)

Hmm, do any of you remember toe clips, or am I dating myself? All you have to do is run the toe clip strap through the outer plastic loop on the batter case, and tighten it on you frame, stem, etc.

If you don't know what a toe clip is, you should stop by your LBS and pick-up a few. Put them in your toolbox, trunk and camping gear - they are that versatile! Oh, and use one of them for your light...

Tom P.


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## Piker (Sep 18, 2005)

Good if they are switching to 5 mode, as having this thing mounted on your head could get a bit hot with the current hi/lo! You'd want to be careful using it for camping, the beam would burn a hole through your tent! Converting the DX headlamp mount to helmet mount will be easy...

Does GeoMan 'rebuild' and 5 mode mod all the DX lights he ships?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Piker said:


> Does GeoMan 'rebuild' and 5 mode mod all the DX lights he ships?


Geoman does not sell "DX" lights. He sells Magicshine lights bought directly from the manufacturer with his input into the specs and QC.

DX apparently sells a different version.


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## Craptasticycle (May 29, 2008)

Mark2c said:


> Subtle Adjustment for clarity & my helmet - using a spare Lupine mount...


I have the same magicshine / L&M helmet mount hybrid, my LM was an old Solo. I used the old LM battery pack too, just paid $47 for the MS lighthead only from geoman.

Just got mine Monday, has the long cord but only the 3 mode switch.


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## gfourlias (Aug 24, 2009)

As I saw at Geoman it is the same light as DX only with different brand.
I have bought the light myself from DX and it is exactly the same; not only the light but the box, the graphics etc.
Probably, they have a new version of the driver which is good since the 500 low mode is too bright for commuting and the flashing is at 900 lumen which is too bright to use.


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## CoAXx (Dec 30, 2007)

It wouldt be nice to have a head- and bikemount version. Can't You buy the hadmount seperatly?


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

For me I'd just like 2 modes
HIGH
+
Fast Flash/SOS


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## WeakMite (May 11, 2004)

I'd like for them to add a bluetooth interface and internal CPU that's running voice recognition software inside the MagicShine light... 
so I can simply say "high" or "low" or "off" into my bluetooth earpiece_!_


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

You forgot to mention that it should _include_ the BT headset, and the accompanying charger, and be priced under $100:thumbsup:

Personally, I'd be content with a remote control module that I could mount onto my handlebars, etc. Never been a fan of that voice recognition stuff


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## gfourlias (Aug 24, 2009)

Yes you can. At both sites


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## bradjackson (Jul 9, 2009)

WeakMite said:


> I'd like for them to add a bluetooth interface and internal CPU that's running voice recognition software inside the MagicShine light...
> so I can simply say "high" or "low" or "off" into my bluetooth earpiece_!_


When greeting a fellow cyclist riding in the opposite direction, you had better make sure you say Hello, and not Hi.


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

:lol:


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

bradjackson said:


> When greeting a fellow cyclist riding in the opposite direction, you had better make sure you say Hello, and not Hi.


The word for super high mode should of course be "FAAAAAAAARK"


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

So, is the geoman cord longer than the DX cord? I'm looking to buy one of these .


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## Sliverboy (Nov 3, 2008)

CoAXx said:


> It wouldt be nice to have a head- and bikemount version. Can't You buy the hadmount seperatly?


DX now sells a helmet mount version of this light.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489

It's even a little cheaper than the original handle bar mount version.


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## loz234 (Sep 20, 2009)

hi guys, so has anyone bought one from dx in the last week or so? does it have the 5 modes like the geo ones?
cheers


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

I think maybe my post got missed, or maybe no one knows:
Is the geoman cord longer than the DX cord?


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## loz234 (Sep 20, 2009)

gmcttr:


> The newest lights from Geoman have a longer cable. Including the section on the battery, the total length is about 53 inches.


it would be cool if these improvements (ok some people don't see the 5 modes as an improvement!) were also added to the ones dx are selling


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

Thanks, yeah not sure I need 5 modes, but a longer cord would be nice so I could use my bike bag. I am definitely going to buy one of these lights, I thought I"d try and find a decent price on one, and I can't see spending $200+ dollars on a light


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

crrimson said:


> I think maybe my post got missed, or maybe no one knows:
> Is the geoman cord longer than the DX cord?


The last 2 bar mount versions that friends recieved from DX (2 weeks ago)had around 18 inch wire.
It could be that the head mound versions have a longer wire.


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I decided to order one of these the day they were listed on DX. Has anyone had confirmation of a delivery I am still waiting.


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

Mr AB said:


> I decided to order one of these the day they were listed on DX. Has anyone had confirmation of a delivery I am still waiting.


When you say "the day they were listed on DX", what exactly do you mean? The original ones (sku# 25149 ) were first listed *months* ago, and plenty of people have received them already.

Or are you talking about the new ones with the headstrap (sku# 29489)? These just came out, and I kinda doubt if many (if any) people have received this one yet.


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

Yes I am talking about the new version.
When you buy from DX you get a second email as soon as the parcel is shipped.

I am asking, has anyone who has ordered a newer dx light had shipping confirmation?

I am now hoping I don't end up with a 5 mode light.


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## Craptasticycle (May 29, 2008)

Mr AB said:


> Yes I am talking about the new version.
> When you buy from DX you get a second email as soon as the parcel is shipped.
> 
> I am asking, has anyone who has ordered a newer dx light had shipping confirmation?
> ...


Did you notice that the "new version" isn't magicshine branded? Same box without the MS logo. Also comes with a lower amp charger according to the pics, and says it's current limited to 1000ma. If it were just one difference I'd say typo but with all 3 there is something going on - I'm suspicious if maybe these are 2nd quality parts that failed some QC check and are getting resold at a safer / lower current?

Or could just be DX typos...


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## serotonin (May 22, 2008)

Anyone know where I can find a replacement charger? Mine was DOA and I'm not getting any help from DX.

Thanks!!! :thumbsup:


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

take a look at Geoman's site: HERE

:thumbsup:


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

It looks like the new version has a cheaper charger at only 1000 ma instead of 1800 ma.
I think this is where they have got the 1000 from. Maybe the cheaper charger allows then to make the procuct slightly cheaper and also include the headset. There is no way they limit the current to 1000 ma max as this would be no way near the 900 max lumens.

What type of charger comes with the latest geomanlight ?


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## Craptasticycle (May 29, 2008)

Mr AB said:


> It looks like the new version has a cheaper charger at only 1000 ma instead of 1800 ma.
> I think this is where they have got the 1000 from. Maybe the cheaper charger allows then to make the procuct slightly cheaper and also include the headset. There is no way they limit the current to 1000 ma max as this would be no way near the 900 max lumens.
> 
> What type of charger comes with the latest geomanlight ?


Doesn't the first gen light only really put out around 500-600ish lumens anyway? Anyway it's something like that so I wouldn't look at the 900L max spec on the new one as any real indicator. You'd need 2800mA and ideal cooling to ever get 900 lumens, they are just advertising theorectical max for the led.

Probably is the same lighthead and the 1000ma a type... but if I got one I'd do a side by side comparison with one of the lights that has MagicShine written on the box to make sure it's not a new cheaper knockoff of a cheap knockoff :skep:


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## Tuff Gong (May 8, 2009)

Mr AB said:


> It looks like the new version has a cheaper charger at only 1000 ma instead of 1800 ma.
> I think this is where they have got the 1000 from. Maybe the cheaper charger allows then to make the procuct slightly cheaper and also include the headset. There is no way they limit the current to 1000 ma max as this would be no way near the 900 max lumens.
> 
> What type of charger comes with the latest geomanlight ?


The Geoman version I recieved 2 weeks ago has the 1800ma charger.


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

I am sure these lights are all coming from the same manufacturer. I have made my order now so will also compare it to my original light when it arrives, as the earlier thread I am still waiting for despatch confirmation.


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## Craptasticycle (May 29, 2008)

Mr AB said:


> I am sure these lights are all coming from the same manufacturer. I have made my order now so will also compare it to my original light when it arrives, as the earlier thread I am still waiting for despatch confirmation.


Yeah, you're probably right.

But... another differecne is the new head mounted light isn't listed under the bike lights category, it shows up under "SSC Flashlights" and the mount looks more like a "hiking light" than a helmet mounted bike light. Assuming it is intended to be a hiking light, you're going to get less airflow (slower speed walking) so maybe they had to drop current for longevity/overheating reasons. Also a lower current draw would require less battery capacity, which would require a lower charger current to charge up in the same time...


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## JCYC5 (Sep 4, 2009)

If you have a Giro Xen helmet like me.....

Don't need a mount!

I just use the smaller O-ring and run the cable internally, between the shell and the suspension liner.


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## serotonin (May 22, 2008)

Anyone know if the cells in the battery pack are protected or unprotected cells?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

serotonin said:


> Anyone know if the cells in the battery pack are protected or unprotected cells?


The individual cells are not protected. The battery pack has a protection pcb. See post# 5 of this thread.


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## serotonin (May 22, 2008)

Thanks for the clarification! One last question:

Since my battery pack is unable to be charged, for the time being, I'm curious if I could get away with using two 18650 cells in series, to run this light on low? The batteries I have on hand are "TrustFire Protected 18650 3.7V True 2400mAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries" from DX.

Thanks a ton everyone!!


Edit: It seems this is feasible, just wondering if it's safe to do. I'm not sure how much current you can draw from these batteries safely.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Two protected 18650 cells in series should work on low beam. Cheers


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Mr AB said:


> It looks like the new version has a cheaper charger at only 1000 ma instead of 1800 ma.
> I think this is where they have got the 1000 from. Maybe the cheaper charger allows then to make the procuct slightly cheaper and also include the headset. *There is no way they limit the current to 1000 ma max as this would be no way near the 900 max lumens.*
> 
> What type of charger comes with the latest geomanlight ?


I just want to point out that the input current to the battery from the charger has nothing to do with the *_output current from the battery to the LED_. * That is determined by the driver assuming that the batteries are capable of supplying max voltage/current requirements for the LED. I doubt the MS outputs a visually realized 900lm. I think if you get 600lm on high you can assume you've got your money's worth. If these output anything over 600lm then I think I can safely say that for $89 you've made out like a Freeking bandit.


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Cat-man-do said:


> I just want to point out that the input current to the battery from the charger has nothing to do with the *_output current from the battery to the LED_. * That is determined by the driver assuming that the batteries are capable of supplying max voltage/current requirements for the LED. I doubt the MS outputs a visually realized 900lm. I think if you get 600lm on high you can assume you've got your money's worth. If these output anything over 600lm then I think I can safely say that for $89 you've made out like a Freeking bandit.


Agreed.

Now compared to my 830 lumen Lupine Wilma the beam on these rock as a helmet light - brighter in the centre, but still with good peripheral spread. An utter bargain.


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## peglar (Sep 15, 2009)

ok so i have plumped for this light and i have to say on first inspection i am very impressed.

one question though...

i would like to make an extension cable for it and a higher capacity battery pack. so my question is

does anyone know where i can get the same connectors that they have used?

thanks in advance!


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

If you could post a photo of the cable and connectors, then maybe we could find them on Mouser or Digikey - electronic parts websites, if they are available.


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## peglar (Sep 15, 2009)

crrimson said:


> If you could post a photo of the cable and connectors, then maybe we could find them on Mouser or Digikey - electronic parts websites, if they are available.


hope this shows what you need.


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## ortelius (Dec 6, 2007)

Look for DC (barrel) connectors, 5.5mm outer diamter, 2.1mm inner diameter.


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## peglar (Sep 15, 2009)

excellent thanks for that

i now have more questions...

firstly could i use the attached to put batteries in parallel to adde to the runtime?

and all the barell connectors i can find dont have that lip that is on the female connector to provied a water resistant seal (not waterproof i know but better than open to the elements)


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## wrench177 (Dec 27, 2007)

peglar said:


> excellent thanks for that
> 
> i now have more questions...
> 
> ...


Those look like Trail-Tech connectors. They can be bought from BatterySpace.com.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

You could always buy the Y-cable from Geoman and cut it up to get what you need.


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## Mr AB (Sep 8, 2008)

The trailtech lead is only 6 inch.
I have the early dx light and would also like to extend the cable like the geoman version.

Can geoman supply a cable only?

Another possibility it cut the cable, extend it, and solder an extension in,
then use heat shrink with glue inside to seal the joints??


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

Mr AB said:


> ......
> 
> Another possibility it cut the cable, extend it, and solder an extension in,
> then use heat shrink with glue inside to seal the joints??


this is what i would do


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

Mr AB said:


> The trailtech lead is only 6 inch.
> I have the early dx light and would also like to extend the cable like the geoman version.
> 
> Can geoman supply a cable only?
> ...


These were my thoughts as well, I know DX has incredibly slow shipping usually, how long would I have to wait to get one of these lights if I ordered tonight?


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## wrench177 (Dec 27, 2007)

BatterySpace does have longer, coiled Trail-Tech cables in both male and female connectors. You could make your own extension by soldering/heat shrinking the wires together. Or simply extend your current wire with one of the coiled connectors. Making an extension gives you the option to add/remove length as needed.

I'm not 100% sure, but, the Dinotte connectors look like Trail-Tech's with an added "sleeve" that extends over the housing. Can someone confirm/deny this? If this is the case, they sell a 36" extension that could get you rolling right out of the box.


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## ggualdi (Apr 10, 2006)

Hi evrybody,

Just last night I've bought the DE lamp below

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29489

Then I've seen that they have also this one

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149

Can someone tell me wich one is better (in particular the led) ? perhaps I can ask to change the item ..

I read that it is better, before to use the lamp, to make some adjustments ...can someone list the adjustments needed?

Thank you very much
Regards
Guido


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## wrench177 (Dec 27, 2007)

ggualdi said:


> Hi evrybody,
> 
> Just last night I've bought the DE lamp below
> 
> ...


This has been discussed in another thread I believe. Common belief is that these are basically the same light, one with an elastic head band and one without. The Magicshine logo appears to be missing from the 29489 sku and there is some miss information about the emitter. DX lists it as a Cree SSC P7, but, Cree doesn't make a P7, SSC does. More than likely a typo on the part of DX.


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## ggualdi (Apr 10, 2006)

wrench177 said:


> This has been discussed in another thread I believe. Common belief is that these are basically the same light, one with an elastic head band and one without. The Magicshine logo appears to be missing from the 29489 sku and there is some miss information about the emitter. DX lists it as a Cree SSC P7, but, Cree doesn't make a P7, SSC does. More than likely a typo on the part of DX.


Thanks wrench177

should be a typo also the difference below ?

sku.29489 -> Circuitry:	Digital Regulated 1000mA Current Output
sku.25149 -> Circuitry:	Digital Regulated 2400mA Current Output

Thanks again


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## transamman_2000 (May 11, 2008)

Anyone confirm the Dinotte cable or either. My battery pack lacks about 6 inches from making it to my camel pack pocket  Does geoman sell a extension cable?


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

You could use the Y-cable to get 6". See post 258.


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## ExtremeSportsLighting (Oct 12, 2009)

Hi

Has anyone had any trouble with the battery Protection Circuit?
When I connect the battery to the light, nothing happens (It did work origionally, got a few rides out of it) If I put a multimeter across the battery it reads 8.2 volts, but this drops top about 2 volts as soon as I connect the light. I repeated the test connecting the Multimeter before the Protection PCB, the vlotage remained at 8.2 volts. I treied plugging the light into a Bench Power supply. The light worked fine.
I inspec ted the circuit unted a microscope and found 2 open joints, I resoldered them, but it is still not working.
Please help!


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

ExtremeSportsLighting said:


> Hi
> 
> Has anyone had any trouble with the battery Protection Circuit?
> When I connect the battery to the light, nothing happens (It did work origionally, got a few rides out of it) If I put a multimeter across the battery it reads 8.2 volts, but this drops top about 2 volts as soon as I connect the light. I repeated the test connecting the Multimeter before the Protection PCB, the vlotage remained at 8.2 volts. I treied plugging the light into a Bench Power supply. The light worked fine.
> ...


Where did you buy yours from? And why didn't you send it back?


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## ExtremeSportsLighting (Oct 12, 2009)

*DX Light Battery PCB*

I am repairing it for a friend, he got it from DX online I think. He has had no response from them.There are also logistical problem returning goods from here, deepest darkest africa, well Cape Town.


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## daniel58 (Sep 27, 2008)

*Cable for batteries in parallel*



peglar said:


> excellent thanks for that
> 
> i now have more questions...
> 
> ...


Yes they should work, if they are for trail tec type connector use in (5.5mm x 2.1mm) format like in the below example from batteryspace.com; which turns two male connectors ends into one female end:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptor1femaleto2inseriesmaletrailtechcoaxisplugycable.aspx

The female business end of a typical 5.5mm x 2.1mm trail tec connector looks like this to help clarify compatibility:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptortrail-techcoaxislockablefemaleplugwith6prewire.aspx

cheers to trail tec connectors


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

I am not sure if people are still wondering about any of this, but here are couple of observations. I just recieved 3 units from DX, the ones with the headband mount. I took them all apart and they look good. I found no metal shavings anywhere and there was heat transfer compound where it needs to be. The LED MCPCP is heald down with screws, like the more recent pictures. The switch is 3 mode, Hi, Low,, Flashing. This is fine with me, I think 5 is too many. The wire leads are pretty short. I plan on mounting mine to my helmet, and have to see if they are long enough with the battery in my top camelback pocket.

The charger is 1800mah, just like the other one.

The connectors are NOT compatible with the trailtech ones, I tried and it is a no-go.

I am not crazy about the helmet mount, it puts the light up too high. I am working on modifying a Cateye helmet mount and will post pictures when done.

I think that is it.

Mark


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

I just got back from a ride with mine and my rear blinkie died so I put it in SOS mode on one sketchy section of road and it definitely got some attention. Every reflective surface on the road and signs were on stobe! Pretty wild looking.

I'm planning on using it as a rear blinkie from hell once my DIY light is done...gonna put in a red reflective lens and point it backwards on SOS.


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## HEY HEY ITS HENDO (Feb 23, 2008)

....................."I'm planning on using it as a rear blinkie from hell"
not a smart move, :nono: i fear that irresponsible use of high power led lights on public highways just like this, WILL see them regulated and/or even banned
do you drive a car Rich? at night? The Megalumen lights we love to build and own really are blinding, please use them responsibly


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:


> ....................."I'm planning on using it as a rear blinkie from hell"
> not a smart move, :nono: i fear that irresponsible use of high power led lights on public highways just like this, WILL see them regulated and/or even banned
> do you drive a car Rich? at night? The Megalumen lights we love to build and own really are blinding, please use them responsibly


Thanks for your concern, but I'll do what's safest for me. And that's running the brightest, most annoying rear light that I can. What's irresponsible is what most drivers are doing--texting, talking on cell phones, etc...everything except paying attention to the road. Have you had a friend killed by a car Hendo?


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## daniel58 (Sep 27, 2008)

bikeny said:


> I am not sure if people are still wondering about any of this, but here are couple of observations.
> 
> I just recieved 3 units from DX, the ones with the headband mount. I took them all apart and they look good.
> 
> ...


On the trailtech connectors, if they are a no-go it is relatively routine to connect a male and female trail tech connectors on each respective end(link supplied below);

just remember, when wiring up the external battery pack up to the DC power jack that the MS lamp center pin has to have the red, positive voltage or hot side wired to it;

so one might want to check with a multi-meter to verify polarity for postive polarity to the center pin of DC power Jack or else one might burn up ones brand new MJ lamp.

I just checked and verified the polarity setting coming off the lithium ion battery charger male plug end, before typing this and it is confirmed positive polarity on the center pin being supplied to the lithium ion battery pack jack end(female end) coming off the li-ion battery pack, I learned this lesson with a flashlight led lamp that I personally blew up stupidly in a "poof" of smoke; $15.00and now as a result I alway check-no matter what to prevent that from ever happening again.

The main advantage of using the trail tec connectors is they are of course both naturally lockable and also waterproof as well; so this upgrade to the connecting cable/connectors will serve one for a very long time.

So it is ultimately worth upgrading, fortunately it is a relative routine, relatively inexpensive and not to uncommon an upgrade project to undertake.

All one needs is both ends of the trail tech connectors and the shrink tubing splicing in of the proper polarity wires to the LED Lightset's positive and negative wires(following the above multimeter verification/confirmation test- center pin has to have the positive voltage on it)

Here is the needed trail tech cable/connector part(link supplied below) if your making an extension cord that could also be retractable:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connect...techcoaxislockableconnectorwith8coilcord.aspx

Another advantage of doing it this way is the spliced in trail tech connectors is not only both lockable and waterproof but they are also made of coiled cable that simply stretches or retracts as needed with plenty of length to run out if need be(up to eight feet or as little as needed); either way it is all good and at a good price to boot.

The weakest link in the system is often times the connecting cables/connectorizing ends(they may be to short, they may be to long, they may be not waterproof, they may be not lockable, they may be not compatible)

and this particularly simple and routine upgrade solution can simultaneously solve all of ones potential set of problems that might present themselves on any particular P7 LED Lightset; including naturally of course the Magicshine P7 LED Lightset

In one fell swoop at a particularly attractive upgrade price one can insure that the cables are the right type, length, and the right waterproof/lockable features(half hour tops to complete this simplest of DIY upgrade projects-even if you are all thumbs, though one needs a soldering gun and some rosin core solder of course:???: )

Now of course if you wanted to use two rechargeable lithium ion batteries to double run times one could use the needed trail tech cable/connector part(link supplied below) even if the connectors on the battery pack are not compatible/even if the connector coming from the MS LED Lightset is not compatible (using heat shrink tubing at splice points):

Simply, attach these on each of the two lithium ion batteries(after it is proved they are not trailtec compatible):

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptortrail-techcoaxislockablefemaleplugwith6prewire.aspx (trailtec female)

Then, use this trailtec adapter to combine/connect the two female DC trailtec power outputs from the lithium ion battery packt:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptor1femaleto2inseriesmaletrailtechcoaxisplugycable.aspx (trailtec 2M to 1F)

and then in addition, use this trailtec adapter to connect/combine the two MS LED Lightset male end trailtec plugs to the previous trailtec adapter female end:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptor1maleto2inparallelfemaletrailtechcoaxisplugycable.aspx (trailtec 1M to 2F)

Finally, one replaces the two male DC power connectors coming from the MS LED Lightset; (after it is proved they are not trailtec compatible) with one of these:

http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptortrail-techcoaxislockablemaleplugwith6prewire.aspx

Its simple really, just look over the above trailtec adapter/connector supplied referencing linked pictures and anyone can figure it out; trust me.

Do just the DIY upgrade extension cable upgrade project or even better do the the twin battery parallel connection upgrade project also as well at the same time.

Either way it will all be "good", with lots to "cheer" about when one is all done with one or both projects.

cheers and hooray


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## wheeler26 (Apr 18, 2009)

Rich_SC said:


> Thanks for your concern, but I'll do what's safest for me. And that's running the brightest, most annoying rear light that I can. What's irresponsible is what most drivers are doing--texting, talking on cell phones, etc...everything except paying attention to the road. Have you had a friend killed by a car Hendo?


I'm with you Rich, i've been using one of this as a rear red light for about 4 or 5 months now and it gets attention and cars give you a wide berth. Like you said, it lights up signs blocks and blocks away behind you.

I use mine on solid instead of flash for short rides else flash - i put a piece of red automotive rear lens repair tape on it - it dims the output a bit but better than white at the back.


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## 1113562 (Nov 5, 2009)

Hi, J Bassett, was that temp test after you rebonded the P7 or the stock item?

I have a few techy questions:-

Does anyone know what capacity the 18650 batteries are that come with the sheapo DX light? I mean the actual tested Ampere Hour not whats printed on them!

It sounds to me that they are not half bad cells compared to the crud I've bought recently from China/Hong Kong with claimed 2800 mA.hr. 

Where do you get hold of the D or even E bin P7's for upgrades? and are all P7s 12 mm dia as the Seoul BIN tech note indicates an 8 mm dia option? 

Is the thermal resistance from junction to base PCB of P7 stil 8C/watt as per the tech note on thermal management?

That's about it folks


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## nick d (May 25, 2007)

Hi, just a couple quick questions about this light. Is this the light you guys are talking about in this thread: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149

And as far as light output, how would this compare to a Minewt USB? I understand that the quality of the construction may not be as good, but is it really alot brighter?

I know these are probably dumb questions, but im just getting into night riding so i dont know squat about lights....

Thanks!


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## daniel58 (Sep 27, 2008)

nick d said:


> Hi, just a couple quick questions about this light. Is this the light you guys are talking about in this thread: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149
> 
> And as far as light output, how would this compare to a Minewt USB? I understand that the quality of the construction may not be as good, but is it really alot brighter?
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, Niterider's Minewt USB is rated lumen output is only 100lumens.

One would be far better served by Dinotte 200L's offering as that is at least 200lumens(twice as bright)if one wanted to get one of the "big ten bicycle lighting system manufacturers".

or if you are really still set on Niterider's Minewt series, at least get Niterider's Minewt 200 that gives one 200lumens though at closer to $200.dollars.

Either way stay away from Niterider's Minewt USB to dim to be of use to see road obstacles and road obstructions; you will not be terribly happy with that choice at all(sorry 100lumens does not cut it out in the field).

One really needs closer to 400 to 500effective lumens out in the field to ride safely and enjoyably, so one might think of getting two of the 200lumen series bicycle lighting systems for either handlebar and/or helmet mounting.

MagicShine is one conversely absolutely amazing intensely bright led torchlight and the MS Led lightset beam pictures are at the(supplied link for your reference).

http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/

Take particular note in the light beam reference pictures that the Magicshine blows away the Cygolite Dual Cross lighset bicycle lighting system.

Take particular note in the light beam reference pictures that the Magicshine even does better than the Cygolite TridenX lightset bicycle lighting system which is an over $300 Led lightset bicycle lighting system, mighty impressive lighting output luminage comparison.

When I brought the MagicShine MJ-808 I to had initial concerns and initial questions, I waited close to two months before pulling the trigger to buy the MagicShine, and I can safely say it is a "no brainer" its one heck of a bicycle lightset lighting system; buy it with the $10head/helmet mounting option and use it as an incredibly powerful and versatile "handsfree" flashlight.

Today, it is brighter than my previous Led bicycle lighting system, a Princeton Tec Switchback Series I; absolutely blows it away "no question about it".

In addition, the head/helmet mounting option has enabled me to "literally blow out" and "literally blow away" just about any high intensity three watt Led flashlight(rechargeable model) while at the same time being both portable and "handsfree"(a bonus); which was an unexpected added utility. I have used this to "mow the lawn" after 7pm due to daylight savings time-its daylight outside as I can see tree roots and everything else with this light; nothing short of amazingly bright.

The actual light output in the sample provided link above is both accurate and precise in representation; and I can say definitively my only regret that I did not purchase this Magicshine Led Lightset Lighting system sooner.

If you do get it make sure to get it from geomangear his customer service is absolutely superb and responsive and decisively quick and efficient-->big kudos to the "G" man, he stands behind what he sells<--

cheers enjoy the pictures, good luck on your choice/selection; let us know how you make out by writing a review on your choice and impressions.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

nick d said:


> Hi, just a couple quick questions about this light. Is this the light you guys are talking about in this thread: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149
> 
> And as far as light output, how would this compare to a Minewt USB? I understand that the quality of the construction may not be as good, but is it really alot brighter?
> 
> ...


Yes that is the light.

Yes it is a LOT brighter than the Minewt USB.

If you are in the USA, pay a few extra $'s and get it from GeomanGear.com. His version has a short cord + extension cable, great customer service and you will get it much faster.


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## odtexas (Oct 2, 2008)

Bumpage about our original tear down (Troutie) and concerns of the Magic Shine. Plus this quote seems to be the first reference on MTBR to this Korean light retailer.
Only took them a year and a half to find us...........

Good find there Fury25



Fury25 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I too have ordered some of these lights, but on further investigation these appear to have been 'inspired' not by Lupine's Tesla, but rather the Korean *"onethelight marrow".*
> 
> ...


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## crrimson (Jun 26, 2008)

I was just looking for this thread last week and couldn't find it! I needed to repair my magicshine. This thread had me sold on the light, here are some pictures I took tearing mine apart, the light melted one of the wires, and it would short out and shut off on me during rides:


















Just fixed it last week.

Also just heard this:
"Magicshine 900 PLUS Lightset
GeoManGear has temporarily discontinued sales of Magicshine lightsets due to our concerns regarding the quality of Magicshine's lithium-ion battery..."


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