# Rohloff club members invited !



## goldinjohn (Oct 25, 2006)

here is the DEAL ! 
i know there is alot on the subject around here, but lets try and put ONE FULL ON thread
out for every body from beginner like me to the experts (Speedub.Nate & co).
pro's & con's, durability, maitenance, whight compare to regular gear setting.....
on a personal note i'm going to build a custom trail bike (HT) so how this can work for me on the trail - up, down, fast, tech'.....
i'm sure a lot of people out there are intrested so every body that have something to share is invited.
thank you
John


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

I'll start! ...with my favorite chart, "Speedhub efficiency vs. an XT drivetrain" as published by German BIKE magazine some years ago now.

But in this case, I'll use it to address a question you asked me in a PM earlier, regarding Speedhub gearing as compared to a 27 speed derailleur setup.










The lower plot shows the Speedhub (steady red line) vs. the XT (slightly longer blue line). The Speedhub loses approximately one gear click to the derailleur when compared against an 11-32 cassette.

It is more directly equivalent to a 24 speed (8 speed) derailleur setup using an 11-28 cassette.

I have some new weight data I'm pulling together, but I'll have to wait until later to share that and some other info.

Hopefully in the mean time some other Speedhub riders will chime in.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Here's part two of my response. It's a weight worksheet I've been wanting to do for a long time. It's not yet complete, and I still have to go back and double check everything, but it's an interesting start.

Because it's such a large file, click on the image to open the full-sized worksheet in a new window. It prints pretty well onto legal sized paper.



This is meaningless without the weights of the components that will be replaced or modified by the Speedhub (and that is the part that is incomplete).

Major examples are: Rear hub, shifters, granny and large chainring, cassette, front and rear derailleur.

Minor examples are: Brake rotor and bolts, reduced chain, changes to amount of cable and housing required, changes in spoke length, and changes if switching from a 36H to a 32H wheel (a 32H Speedhub wheel will build stronger than a typical 36H wheel).

Sample weights can be looked up at weightweenies.starbike.com.

I still have to go through and verify everything on this, so don't take it as gospel just yet (and let me know if you see something suspicious, or if I'm forgetting something).


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

How 'bout a 'sticky' here? With the myriad Speedhub threads it would benefit the newcomer to see these consolidated. I'd like to think we have enough for a separate thread, but probably a sticky would be ideal 



goldinjohn said:


> here is the DEAL !
> i know there is alot on the subject around here, but lets try and put ONE FULL ON thread
> out for every body from beginner like me to the experts (Speedub.Nate & co).
> pro's & con's, durability, maitenance, whight compare to regular gear setting.....
> ...


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

*Here's my Big Hit FSR / Speedhub / e.13 SRS DH setup*

This is a project I've been looking forward to for some time. The stock drivetrain on my new-old stock '05 Big Hit left a lot to be desired in the way of reliability and shifting performance. I'm looking forward to dialing everything in this weekend at Diablo.

The key challenges were obtaining the right chainline up front and coordinating chainguide installation with BB length. I'm not ready to build wheels yet, so I found a bike shop in MA that built up another successful Speedhub wheel and had them take on the 24" project.

Here's a closeup of the e.13 SRS guide. I probably don't need both upper and lower keepers, but I'll try it out to see what works before subtracting parts. I tried multiple spacers (supplied by e.13 with the SRS) between the ISCG mounts and the backplate and found that 2 thick/black spacers on each bolt work best. Chainwheel featured is e.13's guide ring, in 42t trim.

Other drivetrain setup notes:
-Removed stock Truvative 113x68/73E bottom bracket
-Removed E-type front derailleur
-Installed Truvative DH ISIS 118x73 bottom bracket with 1-2 spacers on the drive side (I'll try with both to see it this makes any difference in performance)
-Installed new SRAM chain










Here's a closeup of the hub. This is the first time I've tried using Rohloff's DH guide companion, and it should keep the chain from going anywhere but the rear cog. I very rarely experienced rear cog deraillment with my last long travel Speedhub build (Intense Uzzi SLX) but I thought an extra few grams wouldn't hurt for extra reliability. Removing the cog for the first time proved difficult; I visited my LBS to leverage their extra long handled wrench when what I had on hand wouldn't budge the cog.
Speaking of the cog, it's a good thing Rohloff makes reversible ones. I hadn't noticed any wear-related drive problems on my last bike, but when I installed it on the Big Hit there was considerable chain skipping over the rear cog. When I reversed the cog it went away. This is a stock 16T version.










Here's a pic of the non drive side. Nothing too funny here, just a Speedbone and an 8" rotor (an upgrade from the old 6" version being run on the last host). 
My last attempt at replacing the shifter cables resulted in quite a hack job. Ignore them  . The Speedhub is very forgiving on how you run shifter cables..even my late night efforts resulted in a reasonably smooth shifting setup with all 14 gears.










Here's the finished product: 
I'm awaiting an upper drop crown so I can mount the 888.










The final touch was an oil rinse & change, but I didn't grab any pictures. The manual is quite easy to follow on this one. I use separate syringes for drain (dirty) and fill (clean) tasks. New oil made things just a bit smoother and less noisy.

This is the second long travel FR/DH bike to host this Speedhub, over 4 years. I'd say over time I'm paying less for drivetrains for FR/DH with the Speedhub than with the typical worn out 2x9 parts that were replaced much more regularly.


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

*Here's a 2006 Stumpjumper Pro XC Speedhub Conversion*

With all of the Speedhubs out there these days it's getting nearly unremarkable now to see one :thumbsup:

*History:*

I found a lightly used Speedhub 14/DB on the MTBR classifieds a while back and discovered upon trying to build it up that it was missing several key parts. These parts must have made it impossible for the previous owner to use it at ALL, which probably explains the deal I got on it at the time.

Parts added/replaced: Rim (29" to 26" conversion), paper gaskets, freehub springs, shifter cog, shifter box, tensioner.

The project added 1.5# to my Stumpjumper's weight. This included moving from a stock UST rear tire to a DH-like Hansventure w/ DH tube. Once the Speedhub is mounted, I don't like to bother with pinch flats...

*Results:*

My weekend shakedown cruise was as expected: uneventful. The Speedhub just works. It's a lot noiser than my Speedhub #1, which tells me that it was probably bought new for a project by the previous owner (or someone he knew) and never/seldom used.

I'm contemplating a front ring chain guide device for near total reliability. On a 10 mile off road ride consisting of mostly rock gardens I lost the chain 3 times. It's not a showstopper, but on a 5" travel bike high speed sudden bumps will probably warrant a front chain keeper. I've played with the Rohloff XC guide a bit, but the seat tube of the Stumpy is manipulated in a way that makes it tricky to mount something there. More work is needed...

Pics below:

-Adam

Any good wrenching project begins with some Unibroue. Subject hub #2 is on the left.










Some missing bits were found via trial & error. The latest Rohloff manual helps VASTLY over the stock literature I had. Thanks to Thomas @ Rohloff USA for squaring me away here.









Here's the non-drive side nearly finished. The build was nearly identical to my last FSR style install, an Intense Uzzi SLX.










Here's a shot of the drive side. Removing the conventional drivetrain was a joy, even if it was SRAM XO. That stuff is the best 3x9 setup I've yet tried. My last XC race resulted in a DNF after the hanger snapped during shifting in some mud/under what would ideally be normal load.










Here's the finished product: A new & improved 2006 Stumpjumper Pro.










For now I'm using a loosely-applied Rohloff XC chainguide installed where the front derailleur used to be. It doesn't easily fit the shape of the seat tube, so I'll be converting it to a more permanent solution using the e.13 LG-1 chainguide.


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

*My Uzzi SLX - First Speedhub in 2002*

And here's the rig that started it all: My Intense Uzzi SLX heavy duty trail/FR rig.
This is the post-warranty build after a frame failure claimed the original polished (was black from the factory) frame.

This was my first Speedhub build and I enlisted the help of Sheldon Brown @ Harris Cyclery to do the initial wheel build and installation. That Mavic D321 rear wheel lasted several seasons with a single truing and survived weeks in Whistler, Moab, and Lynn Woods.










Rohloff's 14 Speed Grip Shifter. Somewhat more friction than I'm used 
to coming from Shimano's rapidfire world. It's nice to be able to grab a handful 
of gears all at once, as opposed to clicking away until the right gear is 
reached.










Here's a side view of the setup hub. The crankset is a RF Turbine LP 
(Isis, 180mm) with 44t ring up front.










And a closeup.The Rohloff chain tensioner spring self-destructed after 5 miles on 
the trail, so a low-end Shimano derailleur is filling in until I get a better 
chain tensioner solution. UPDATE: Rohloff is now using a stronger DH spring in the tensionsioners they sell, and an upgraded spring is available for $3.










Here's a shot of the external shifter box, Speedbone, and Rohloff-supplied 
Hayes 6" rotor. I'll be ordering a spare rotor to have on hand just in 
case.










Here's the non drive side showing the external shifter box and cable routing.










Here's a side view of the latest configuration: The rear derailleur thingy 
has been replaced with the proper Rohloff chain tensioner. I also made the 
gearing a little more hill-friendly by swapping in a 42t DH ring up front.










And here's a 3/4 view of the same setup:










A word on Durability:

The Speedhub has performed nearly flawlessly since 2002 with only annual oil changes. I installed it on a second Uzzi SLX following a catastrophic frame failure. Despite what happened to my frame (and leg, yikes that metal was sharp) the Speedhub system quickly transferred to my new bike.

You could say the hub is more durable than some frames:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Adman said:


> I found a lightly used Speedhub 14/DB on the MTBR classifieds a while back and discovered upon trying to build it up that it was missing several key parts. These parts must have made it impossible for the previous owner to use it at ALL, which probably explains the deal I got on it at the time.


I had a similar opportunity -- picked one up for a song. Turned out to be missing one of the very very tiny, easy to lose shift springs, which must have led the original owner to think the hub internals were shot. For the price, I got my hands on a nicely broken in, beautiful hub, to build into a rear wheel for my 29" hardtail.

To any prospective Speedhub owners: If you see a deal on one, it's probably worth picking up. These hubs don't break! In fact, they get better with age. Chances are that any fix would be extremely cheap to initiate.

Missing shift springs is a popular problem (due to careless disassembly by a user).

In the event of hub overload (say, from under-gearing it), chances are the inexpensive and easy-to-replace nylon sheer pins failed, disconnecting the hub shell from the innards.

And as for lubrication, even the rep at Rohloff USA tells me he accidentally ran one of his personal hubs without oil for a few hundred miles before realizing his mistake, and the hub is still running fine.


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

Updated for true DH play:
-Swapped in a 2006 888 RC2x and stored the '66SL for trail use.

Here's a fall weekend @ Diablo, rolling off the 'Porch Drop' w/Speedhub.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Now for a little Speedhub Light rumormongering.

About a year and a half ago, news of the development of a Speedhub Lite hit MTBR.

Details were sketchy, but this much was known: It would be about a pound lighter, sport a 200 pound rider weight limit, and cost a few hundred bucks more.

Announcements were pushed from Interbike '05 to Sea Otter to Interbike '06. An article was anticipated to appear in one of the trade mags. 

Yet, here we are in November of '06, and nothing new.

Here's the latest unconfirmed morsel of speculation:

The 200 pound weight limit didn't sit well with some -- it implies a "weaker" hub, and how many would want to give up Rohloff's famous reliability for a 400g weight savings?

So back to the drawing board.

The new plan is this: 
- No rider weight limit, but a restriction against tandem use. 
- Not just "about a pound" of weight savings, but a full "metric pound" -- yep, 500g!
- (biggie!) Axle end adapters for 130mm, 135mm, 150mm and 150 x 12mm.
- Likely a 10% to 15% increase in price.

No update on timeline. Could be spring. Could be Interbike '07. Heck, could be never!

Anyway, like I say, no confirmation on this, no source to cite, but definitely something to look forward to.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

*Several Rohloff's ...*

I have had several Rohloff setups on different bikes.

This is my latest one, a NinerBikes SIR9 with a Rohloff. Very reliable. This bike is set up as my off road cruiser for longer rides, incorporating some road riding to the trailheads.

I also use this same bike sometimes as a road cruiser with Nano's or big slicks on it for longer road rides.

The Rohloff hubs have all been 100% reliable, I have never had a single problem with any Rohloff I have ever used, nor have I heard of any Rohloff owner breaking a Speedhub.

I have seen many long-distance Rohloff Hubs with many thousands of miles on them with no problems.

R.


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## poppy (Jan 24, 2006)

*Great Thread*

Great Thread John
did not think about this setting for my new bike but reading all that and looking around a little it's getting intresting,
Great posting Speedub.nate looking forward for the rest of it
Rainman how your bike whight in this setting ?
the new lighter one can be great but i guess no one can say much about it right now !?
retrofit !!!???
this one should make for a good sticky
keep it coming


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## VernDog (Jan 17, 2004)

*This is mine*

Great thread..Here's mine, a 2006 spot 29er with the disc version speedhub, I had picked this hub up second hand, changed the oil, cables, and sprocket, good to go!!

My first hub, way back in 200, is still going strong, though really silent now, many miles later!!

SpeedduteNate, was bidding on yours on ebay for another build/project, see what happens

Only real thing I'd like to see is a faster engagement point like hadley or king hubs use, but if it works good, then don't mess with it..


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Vernon VernDog said:


> SpeedduteNate, was bidding on yours on ebay for another build/project, see what happens
> 
> Only real thing I'd like to see is a faster engagement point


Good point on the hub engagement. I measured this once, and the Speedhub is nearly identical to the XT hubs of a few years ago.

Unfortunately, Shimano has recently seen the benefit of increasing the number of engagement pawls, but Rohloff has gone with the status quo.

Definitely merit to increasing this for technical conditions.

Vern, I'm honored you were bidding on my lil 'ol hub on eBay. Tough parting with it, but I'm facing facts that the tandem isn't going to be reality in the next year or two, and I'd much rather have that nice Mrazek frame I've billboarded at the bottom of my listing. I figure when the tandem becomes reality, I can share a Speedhub wheelset to keep costs in check.


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## goldinjohn (Oct 25, 2006)

great stuff everybody thank you so much for coming out and for shering all thati see some people mention some noise from new unit, what kind of noise are we talking about is it only when shifting or more then that ?
thank you again
John


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Noise? Luck of the draw, and function of use.

One of mine is near noiseless. Wouldn't think anything of it if you heard it on the trail.

Some have loud engagement pawls that stand out while coasting.

One of mine is particularly "whirrey" in gear 3 -- almost sounds like a resistance trainer on a quiet morning ride.

While there is some variability in this department, there is one constant: They all get quieter and smoother with age. An new Speedhub can feel a little rough and run a little loud as all the gears mesh together and break in. This roughness you can not only hear, but feel through the pedals.

Couple hunderd miles and an oil change and it is greatly diminished. A thousand or so miles and it's smooth running.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

poppy said:


> Great Thread John
> did not think about this setting for my new bike but reading all that and looking around a little it's getting intresting,
> Great posting Speedub.nate looking forward for the rest of it
> Rainman how your bike whight in this setting ?
> ...


 The current weight of my SIR 9 with Rohloff and Reba fork is about 30lb. As I already have another lightweight One Niner [20lbs] singlespeed the extra weight of the SIR 9 is no problem to me. The SIR 9 originally started out as a fairly light singlespeed bike, but after getting tired of riding to the trailheads on it as a singlespeeder, I fitted the Rohloff Speedhub and converted it into it's present form as a cruising / offroader with the capacity to do onroad trips as well.

This is a very good bike in it's current guise, it can go hard on both sealed or unsealed roads, and handles everything off road that I throw it at with ease. In many ways it is the ideal bike, it has such a wide range of usage.

With a quick change of wheels, it becomes a road tourer or commuter, another quick change back to the knobbies and you have a very fast mountainbike which can be ridden through the traffic on the way to the trails, then back home again. All in all, a very capable machine.

On the trails, I can ride it flat out using all the gears, or just cruise it along like a singlespeed in a leisurely fashion enjoying the view and nature. It climbs like a mountain goat, and the extra weight of the Speedhub seems to give it a stability and rear wheel traction that my lightweight singlespeed lacks in some situations.

Rohloff Speedhubs are really a great way to travel. . . 

R.


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## Mr.Bob (Jan 6, 2004)

Here's my somewhat unique torque arm experience.

I had a Gary Fisher frame that didn't include standard disk brake mounts so my options to handle the torque reaction were the bracket that mounts to the chain stay or I could buy the Trek disk brake adapter for my frame and mount a speedbone to that (I'm not even sure that would've worked).

Anyway, the chain stay bracket is supremely lame in my opinion so that was out and I wasn't particularly thrilled by the thought of spending more money on an adapter and speedbone so I decided to just make my own.

Picture #1 is of my first pass, basically a poor man's speedbone that bolted to the same place the disk adapter would've gone. Not pretty and heavy (1/4" plate steel) but it worked just fine. The cable routing is the only thing that bugged me about it. I really wanted the cables to run up parallel to the seat stay without those big loops.

The next two pictures are of what I ultimately ended up with. It's an extension that bolted on to the dropout so that I could use the OEM axle plate. That let me put the shifter box right where I wanted it. The extension is definitely overbuilt but I wasn't willing to spend anymore time on it when I couldn've been out riding instead. Nonetheless, it turned out pretty nice I think.


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## red-haze.com (Jan 16, 2004)

VernDog, What is that front hub? Is it a SON disc generator hub? I'm looking to make an "everything" bike with a maybe the Rohloff and the SON hub driving LED lights. Are you heading down that road too?
thanks
bob


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## red-haze.com (Jan 16, 2004)

Rainman, that is the smoothest speedhub shifter installation I've seen yet (not that I've seen many). Underhang looks very nice. Can we see a pic from the back looking forward to show the lines of sight on the disc brake/shiftplate side?
thanks
bob


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

Having a separate topic for Rohloffs sounds good to me.

I'd like to hear opinions on things that make chains and cogs wear longer. e.g.:

Do you prefer a hunting tooth setup, or one with even tooth counts and should the chain have an even or odd number of links?

Do you always run the chain facing the same way and same direction?


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## minus9 (Oct 7, 2005)

I've been running a Rohloff hub on my Titus Moto-lite for about a year and a half. My only problem with the setup is that the weight of the hub effectively shifts the center of mass toward the rear. This can take some getting used to.


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## VernDog (Jan 17, 2004)

*Interesting*

Interesting chain tensioner you have, Looks bullet proof!! What is the make/model on your Ti frame?

Cheers



☻☻☻ said:


> Having a separate topic for Rohloffs sounds good to me.
> 
> I'd like to here opinions on things that make chains and cogs wear longer. e.g.:
> 
> ...


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## VernDog (Jan 17, 2004)

*Interesting*

Interesting chain tensioner you have, Looks bullet proof!! What is the make/model on your Ti frame? Oh, And I agree on the "hunting tooth" effect, to break up that same tooth to tooth "hammering effect" for sure. I usuall y run a 15 or 16 with either 41 to 46 tooth fron t ring, also, using a smaller cog (15 tooth) puts less torque into the hub, (geared higher)

Chains, pretty much run a new one every season, pending condition/mileage, etc.

Cheers



☻☻☻ said:


> Having a separate topic for Rohloffs sounds good to me.
> 
> I'd like to here opinions on things that make chains and cogs wear longer. e.g.:
> 
> ...


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

Vernon VernDog said:


> Interesting chain tensioner you have, Looks bullet proof!! What is the make/model on your Ti frame? Oh, And I agree on the "hunting tooth" effect, to break up that same tooth to tooth "hammering effect" for sure. I usuall y run a 15 or 16 with either 41 to 46 tooth fron t ring, also, using a smaller cog (15 tooth) puts less torque into the hub, (geared higher)
> 
> Chains, pretty much run a new one every season, pending condition/mileage, etc.
> 
> Cheers












It's a 6al4v ti one that I made. Works really well on a rigid frame.

The ti frame is a Habanero (Chinese) from www.habcycles.com. I got it earlier this year (2006). No model name that I'm aware of, but it is the disk version.

David


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

To summarize, is it correct to say that the gear hub produces a 400-500 g lighter bike and a more robust design, but for more money?

What is the price tag, again?


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## Mr.Bob (Jan 6, 2004)

Killroy said:


> To summarize, is it correct to say that the gear hub produces a 400-500 g lighter bike and a more robust design, but for more money?


No, you'll end up with a bike that weighs about that much more, not less.



Killroy said:


> What is the price tag, again?


About $1k.


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## Adman (Jan 13, 2004)

*Are you running just the bashguard ?*

That's a nice looking setup! Are you running the e.13 front guide (SRS) or just a bashguard ring? I'm running an SRS setup on one bike and was wondering of the bashguard only was sufficient to keep the chain on up front. 
-Adam



minus9 said:


> I've been running a Rohloff hub on my Titus Moto-lite for about a year and a half. My only problem with the setup is that the weight of the hub effectively shifts the center of mass toward the rear. This can take some getting used to.


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## Killroy (Mar 9, 2006)

Mr.Bob said:


> No, you'll end up with a bike that weighs about that much more, not less.
> 
> About $1k.


Opps, I should read more carefully.

Weight and cost a very important in the trade study, when the internal hub weights the same or less and costs less than $500, PM me. Till then, I will stick to the tried and true gearing system.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Killroy said:


> Weight and cost a very important in the trade study, when the internal hub weights the same or less and costs less than $500, PM me. Till then, I will stick to the tried and true gearing system.


Weight and cost are important because they are tangable numbers that are often given too much importance. But so it goes...

I think what you'll find that a number of current Speedhub owners shared the same weight and cost concerns prior to purchasing their first hub. But after owning one for a short time, they'd do it again in a heartbeat. Hub #1 was the hardest for me. The others followed without much hesitation, once I knew the performance and long term cost advantages.


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## nimble (Aug 2, 2004)

How difficult is it to change a flat? Speed bone with disc, vs like a vandesel ? with a rohloff specific dropout?


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

Easy to do.. it just involves an extra step in the usual process, that being the detaching of the shifter box from the hub.

[ Preliminary bad language..[swearing] deleted...  ]

1 : Detach Shifter box after loosening thumb-screw.

2 : Drop out wheel.

3: Fix flat.

4: Inflate tire.

5: Refit wheel on bike.

6: Re-attach shifter box and tighten thumb-screw.]

7: Ride.

R.


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## Mr.Bob (Jan 6, 2004)

nimble said:


> How difficult is it to change a flat? Speed bone with disc, vs like a vandesel ? with a rohloff specific dropout?


It depends on the configuration. If you have the external shifter box and either the rohloff dropout or speedbone, it's easy. It's a little more painful when you have the internal shifter and/or the chainstay torque bracket but it's still not bad. No tools are required in any case.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Being a long time Rohloff user and MTBR poster, so I'd better post, eh. My first Rohloff hub was in 1999(?) and I didn't have a digital camera back then, so here's my list of Rohloff equiped bikes, missing a few early ones:

I don't think this was the first bike I mounted the hub on, but it's the oldest picture I have:








Its and old Wolf Creek frame (Russian Ti) that cracked a year later.









Airborne TiHag - I was originally going to get the steel Hag, but they ran out of stock. Currently an off-road fixie.









I bought the Brodie Unibomber before the TiHag with the intention of making it a Rohloff bike, but I started riding it as a single speed first... Currently converting someone else to an SS.









An old Brodie Rocket frame that converted to Rohloff nicely, my first full disc version. Currently a Single Speed under someone else.









This MagMaa (Custom frame builders in Sweden) was the first Rohloff specific frame I bought, it uses the OEM-2 torque arm _without_ the Speedbone as it is unobtrusively build-in inbetween the seat and chain stay. It's currently my main commuter/foul weather SS bike.









This is an old Sanvik Ti softail frame, which had a short life with the Rohloff speedhub before being reverted to a Single Speed (there's a trend here...)









This byStickel was built as a Rohloff bike using a custom OEM-1 dropout design, which works very well. It's my main gearie ride, and has been across North America, above 10,000' in the Rockies, and _in_ the ocean.









An old Catamount URT frame modified to take a Rohloff hub without tensioners.









My wife's Rohloff, and second bike from byStickel. A few minor refinements made this the nicest OEM-1 type frame I've ever seen.

Here's a closeup of the rear triangle showing what I think is the cleanest cable runs for this hub:








The Phil Woods' version with the shifter mounted under the seat stay (Like the one posted previously) is just as good IMHO.

Missing is a Litespeed Obed-FS with an Amp B3 rear that was Rohloff'ed. And some other early experiments.

They are heavier than derailleurs, and have a few quirks, like shifting between 7 & 8. Maintenance is about the same as derailleurs in that you have to check and replace stretched chains or you'll have cog & chainring wear issues. Oil change is every 2 years, unless you live in cold climates like me (>0C winters), then it's twice a year with winterizing. What you gain is reliability (no mechanicals on the trail) and fast precise shifting.

Although I have never broken a hub, my original 1999 hub is not with me anymore - it was sent back to Rohloff for a disc upgrade, but because the hub was such an early non-stnadard version, they had to custom build a disk flange for it, which leaked oil since the tolerances back then were different (they were hand selecting and fitting the components to build those hubs). So in the end, they replaced it with a new one.

Cheers,

Tom


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## VernDog (Jan 17, 2004)

*front hub*

The front hub is the "mini" version of the seismic epicenter front hub, this is the 4" flange version.. Seismic made these thing with 6" diameter flanges a while back, late nineties I believe..


red-haze.com said:


> VernDog, What is that front hub? Is it a SON disc generator hub? I'm looking to make an "everything" bike with a maybe the Rohloff and the SON hub driving LED lights. Are you heading down that road too?
> thanks
> bob


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

*Rohloff issue*

A friend just this last weekend has some issue with one of his hubs which he has had on a tandem for I'm not sure how many years.

He's a very strong, tall rider, though his stoker is more gentle, but more recently he has had his cranks set up out-of-phase. That is, the stoker cranks are oriented 90 degrees relative to the captain's. This smooths out the power cycle, but it also means that there is never a reduction in the pressure on the hub, so that gears would always be changed under pressure.

He said he tought that he knew what the problem would be and would look into it. As I am new to Rohloffs (I've only had this bike just over a week now), the technical details went over my head.

I should be able to report his resolution in a week or two.

Here's mine, a custom solution from an Aussie builder Baum.


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## alias (May 9, 2005)

*tensioner question*

So I would like to build a Rohloff into an existing vertical dropout hardtail that I have. I am thinking to use an MRP or similar lower arm and roller as as tensioner. I have seen this before in use on a single speed w/ vertical D/O's ...any thought on this as a speedhub tensioner??

Thanks


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm a new Rohloff user myself and so far-so good. I'm not wild about having to use a grip shift style shifter and I'm working on a design for a trigger shifter. I built this frame a few weeks ago and love the whole setup. I'm still undecided about whether to run the cables up top (as I did on this one) or below the chain stay (possibly on a frame I'm building for my wife next month)

More details on everything here


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

alias said:



> I am thinking to use an MRP or similar lower arm and roller as as tensioner. I have seen this before in use on a single speed w/ vertical D/O's ...any thought on this as a speedhub tensioner??


Basically, anything that will work to tension a singlespeed will work to tension a Speedhub.

On a hardtail, there is no need I can see for a sprung tensioner (whether from Rohloff or Surly) if a fixed tensioner or roller will suffice.


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## Mr.Bob (Jan 6, 2004)

smudge said:


> I'm a new Rohloff user myself and so far-so good. I'm not wild about having to use a grip shift style shifter and I'm working on a design for a trigger shifter.


I wasn't a particular fan of gripshift either but it really is the best way to shift the Rohloff. Being able to rip through a bunch of gears quickly is one of my favorite features of the hub. Give it some time and you too will see the light


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## goldinjohn (Oct 25, 2006)

☻☻☻ said:


> It's a 6al4v ti one that I made. Works really well on a rigid frame.
> 
> The ti frame is a Habanero (Chinese) from www.habcycles.com. I got it earlier this year (2006). No model name that I'm aware of, but it is the disk version.
> 
> David


David , 
do you have more pics of this part ?
thank you

John


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## goldinjohn (Oct 25, 2006)

Speedub.Nate said:


> Basically, anything that will work to tension a singlespeed will work to tension a Speedhub.
> 
> On a hardtail, there is no need I can see for a sprung tensioner (whether from Rohloff or Surly) if a fixed tensioner or roller will suffice.


Like what ?

John


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

Is the new lighter weight one ever going to hit the market?


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

goldinjohn said:


> David ,
> do you have more pics of this part ?
> thank you
> 
> John












This is all I have. I'll take some more, soon.

There are 10 of the 16 teeth engaged...

David


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

goldinjohn said:


> David ,
> do you have more pics of this part ?
> thank you
> 
> John


Some more:


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

Took mine out on some easy singletrack this morning. Still with the slicks on so I don't want to tackle anything to technical yet. A couple of times I got stuck trying to change from 8th to 7th. Pretty annoying. Even happened on a steep bit of sealed bike path. Is it something that you get used to or as the hub wears in does the change become smoother?

I'm finding that through most changes I have to back off the pressure a fair bit more that with derailluers. 

I don't know how much riding the previous owner did, so I'm not exactly sure when to do the first oil change. Any suggestions?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> Is the new lighter weight one ever going to hit the market?


Honestly, I have every assurance they are working on it.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=241727&p=2410996

I'd bet you'll hear something around Sea Otter. I gather they were shooting for this past interbike but just couldn't wrap it up in time.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

slaw said:


> ...I got stuck trying to change from 8th to 7th. Pretty annoying.Is it something that you get used to or as the hub wears in does the change become smoother?
> 
> ...I'm not exactly sure when to do the first oil change.


The 7/8 thing is pretty normal. Partly a function of wear, partly of rider familarity. Give it time, you'll get used to it.

The difference is that with derailleurs, you've got to shift a little before top of stroke and allow time for the chain to carry through the shift... some times as much as one third of the pedal rotation.

With the Speedhub, you can wait until top center of the stroke, because of the instantaneous nature of the shift. Sometimes you'll need to "burp" your pedal stroke just slightly... a fraction of a second enought to let the gear drop into place. This will become second nature really quickly.

If you ever find yourself stuck in 1 when you really want to be in 8, or vice versa, just lay of the shifter and again, "burp" your pedal stroke. The gearwill drop immediately when you lay off the pedal pressure.

As for the oil change, since there is no way to determine the amount of oil in the hub, assume the worst and change it now. Why chance it?


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## roxie (Oct 23, 2006)

Just picked up a used hub. Only have one ride but had a monent where the hub freewheeled. Not sure what i did but it corrected itself. Is this a common problem or do I have a hub in need of work? Also the shifter doesn't seem to drop to 1st gear. Anyone have suggestions?


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## roxie (Oct 23, 2006)

*new to hub*

Anyone ever have the hub freewheel. Mine did on the first ride last night, but corrected itself and did'nt do it again. Problem or something I need to do to fix as in set up. Also appears to not go into 1st gear. suggestions appriciated.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

roxie and roxie,

The hub not shifting into first is almost certainly a cable set up problem on your part. You can verify this by removing the external shifter box and using an 8mm box wrench to turn the gear exposed gear selector through all fourteen gears.

This can likely be resolved through your barrel adjusters. If not, you'll need to re-cable the bike, and re-cut the cables. Cable length is perhaps the most tedious and precise aspect of the Speedhub installation, and it is important to get it right.

As for the freewheeling, this typically occurs when one or both of the tiny shifter springs are missing from underneath the external shifter unit (as shown in the attached photo). These glamorized BIC pen springs seem to be the root cause of all evil associated with the Speedhub.

In fact, this hub pictured was one I picked up recently on eBay for a bargin price of $350. It was missing one of these springs. I'm guessing the seller thought is was trashed, hence the low Buy It Now price. I dropped in the missing spring, changed the oil, and the hub works perfectly.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

roxie said:


> Anyone ever have the hub freewheel. Mine did on the first ride last night, but corrected itself and did'nt do it again. Problem or something I need to do to fix as in set up. Also appears to not go into 1st gear. suggestions appriciated.


1st gear - as Nate said.

Freewheeling - I get that once in a while, even with the springs in place. Usually occurs at low temps (<0C) and I have not winterized the hub yet. Sometimes will occur when the oil is dirty, empty, or in dire need of a change. Usually only occurs on shifts between specific gears in the low end.


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## roxie (Oct 23, 2006)

Nate, where can i get the springs if indeed they are missing. Thanks. As for first gear, it seems the shifter goes past 14 the same amount so i'm thinking its the posistion of the shifter.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

roxie said:


> Nate, where can i get the springs if indeed they are missing. Thanks. As for first gear, it seems the shifter goes past 14 the same amount so i'm thinking its the posistion of the shifter.


I suggest you try Harris Cyclery first. They seem to actually stock Speedhub parts. There are a few other shops around the country that do, but I don't know 'em by name.

Alternative is to email or call Rohloff USA in Oakland. A bit tricky to get ahold of some times, but he doesn't seem to have much probem dealing direct with customers.

As for the shifting, remove the thumb screw from the external shifter box. Work the shifter and observe which way the cable pulls. Then use the barrel adjusters to pull the cable just enough to complete the shift from second to first.


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## Mr.Bob (Jan 6, 2004)

roxie said:


> Anyone ever have the hub freewheel. Mine did on the first ride last night, but corrected itself and did'nt do it again. Problem or something I need to do to fix as in set up. Also appears to not go into 1st gear. suggestions appriciated.


Do you know for sure that it isn't shifting into first or could it be that the numbers on the shifter just don't line up correctly? For instance, you could be in gear 1 but the shifter says 2. Do you only count 13 gears when you run through them all?

Another possibility is that when the shifter box was taken off the shifter was moved before it was reattached, causing the shifter to indicate a different gear than the hub is actually in. I've accidently done this before but I think it was off by more than one count though.


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## goldinjohn (Oct 25, 2006)

*Thank you*

Thank you everybody for all the info and pic's, i got i think all the info i needed to make up my mind in favor of the speed hub.
just one more thing, i'm looking for a custom builder to build the bike, i was thinking of thylacine he made a bike with speed hub (from his website) so he know it and the bikes are very nice, but, but, but he is in the the other side of the world (Aus) so i'm not sure about it, you know time zone, comunication, shipping,,,
so if eny of you know a good builder for the job (Ti) pleas let us know.
Thank you again
John


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

*Ideal suspension frame for a speedhub?*










Assuming you were willing to make a new left hand drop out to accomodate an OEM axle plate I reckon this frame would be pretty good for a speedhub. You wouldn't need a chain tensioner or a speed bone.

I have a speedhub on an old Giant MCM-990 frame. I keep meaning to take pictures... I'll get around to it one day.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

The Lenz Revelation has been available with a Rohloff specific dropout since the beginning of time. Lenz's Concentrak pivot is identical to the Kona.

Unfortunately, it introduces some compromises that in my opinion are not worth the loss of the rear tensioner.










Did you see the Haro design we're talking about in the other thread?


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## nimble (Aug 2, 2004)

*Rear wheel build?*

In anticipation of my hub coming in the mail...Is 2 cross pattern on a 700c rim what is reccommended for off road? Also does anyone have a spare (rohloff dropout type) axle plate they would be willing to part with? I may need one?


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## Jerk_Chicken (Oct 13, 2005)

I would never spend my hard-earned money on a bike with a bb shell pivot.

NEVER.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

nimble said:


> Is 2 cross pattern on a 700c rim what is reccommended for off road?


Yes, 2x is recommended, and it's what I've built twice now and soon a third time for 29" wheels.

Some folks, unintentionally or not, lace their Speedhubs 3x on 26" and even smaller wheels, and
although some of the spoke angles and flange clearances are suspect, they seem to get away
with it. So yes, you could lace 3x on a 29" rim. But 2x is preferrable.


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## Thylacine (Feb 29, 2004)

Jerk_Chicken said:


> I would never spend my hard-earned money on a bike with a bb shell pivot.
> 
> NEVER.


Wiser words have never been spoken.


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

Thylacine said:


> Wiser words have never been spoken.


What exactly do you see as the problem? I'm not being patronising; I genuinely don't know how the bearing is constructed...


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Timbo said:


> What exactly do you see as the problem?


There are a few.

I can't speak from experience on reliability, but my understanding is these oversized pivots are difficult to manufacture, difficult to align, and lack lateral stiffness. Reliability, simplicity and stiffness would be the #1 "pro" on any list of desireable single pivot traits. If anyone wants to correct me on these points, go for it, I'm all ears.

But from a performance standpoint, a bottom bracket is a poor location for a pivot.

For one, drive forces are usually directed somewhere above the bottom bracket, leading to compressive forces under normal acceleration. If the bottom bracket is high (in line with the axles), this isn't a concern.

Secondly, the high relative alignment of the chain will also attempt to compress the suspension under high pedaling forces.

Braking performance will stiffen like any other single pivot suspension design.

I suspect pedal kickback will be noticable because, even though there is zero chainstay growth, the cog will "drive" the chainring (2.5x its size) under normal compression.


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

Mini review:

I'll only talk about the negatives here, assume that i'm happy with everything else.

You can't shift "under load" like you can changing down an HG cassette, but it's much better than changing up on said cassette.
Most of the mounting options are a bit hacky, but then so are derailleurs.
That %^&*ing twist shifter -- I'm just not a grip shift fan. It's also a rather silly triangular shape which makes it very difficult to comfortably grip (which you need to to reach the brakes). I put mine in my lathe and made it circular; it's better now but I'd still prefer a trigger.
The centre of gravity change. It's fine for trail riding for the most part, but when doing table tops or doubles I find I need to pull up and push forward much more aggresively than I did before. I think it's more than just getting used to it. It's certainly not prohibitive, but it _is_ a compromise.


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

*Chain weights*

I just flushed out the old lub and replaced with new, also installed a new cog. While the KMC X10SL Gold chain was off, I compared its weight to a Wipperman Ti chain. Both are the right length for my Rohloff setup.

KMC:









Wipperman:









Those are both low weights, another area where you save a few grams with a Rohloff.


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## perryr (Jul 26, 2004)

Heres my Ti Pissoff adapted to a Rohloff. EBB. I pull the cables and throw on a SS wheel for Single Speed riding. I set the bike up for SS for most the year, and ride it as a Rohloff through the winter months. I have sinced changed to a Reba fork with adjustable travel, its a great bike! Heres shots of the dropout mod and cable routing.


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## ☻☻☻ (Aug 4, 2006)

perryr said:


> Heres my Ti Pissoff...


That's a nice looking bike.


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## Thylacine (Feb 29, 2004)

Timbo said:


> What exactly do you see as the problem? I'm not being patronising; I genuinely don't know how the bearing is constructed...


The pivot is not inline with the chain torque vector, meaning that without loads of platform damping, it would bob like you wouldn't believe. There's nothing to counter this force so the chain is free to act on the suspension. It's about as an advanced a design as the high pivot Treks from the mid 90's.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

red-haze.com said:


> Rainman, that is the smoothest speedhub shifter installation I've seen yet (not that I've seen many). Underhang looks very nice. Can we see a pic from the back looking forward to show the lines of sight on the disc brake/shiftplate side?
> thanks
> bob


 Heres a couple..of quick pics..

R.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

smudge said:


> I'm a new Rohloff user myself and so far-so good. I'm not wild about having to use a grip shift style shifter and I'm working on a design for a trigger shifter. [/IMG]


If you do one that is working , I'll be the first buyer.......
I absolutly hate Gripshifts type shifter....


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

I have actually had something like that planned for a while...
















...I just need to summon up the time (and energy) to actually manufacture it. I've heard rumours that Nicolai are making a trigger shifter soon though, which kind of puts me off doing so .


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## arandal (Apr 2, 2004)

*Here is my bike with a rohloff*

I've posted pictures before when this hub was on my prior bike. Anyway, the Rohloff hub continues to do well on this current setup. I am attempting to lighten the wheelset by going with xm819 rims and all that stuff, but a new baby in the next two weeks will get in the way of such upgrades for a while. Right now the rims are Mavic 321, built by The Missing Link in Berkeley a few years back. I also need to put on a larger chainring, possibly a 40t. blah, blah, blah... Anyways.....


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## BiggerT (Jul 12, 2006)

*Just had it fitted and I think its bust already !!!*

Hi,
I'm running a Stumpjumper FSR. Just bought a Rohloff off Ebay. Had it fitted by my LBS and took it out this evening. In the lower gears 3,4,5 there were times when the cranks would just spin, ie the hub was not engaging. Very frustrating, especially as I've waited a long time to get one and start using it. 
Anyone had similar experience? Is it bust already? Any suggestions what it might be and what I need to do to put it right ?


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## VernDog (Jan 17, 2004)

Check the cable tension, if the tension is set to high, slippage may occur, slacken the cable tension a little first,a quick check on the hub would be to manually shift using an 8mm wrench on the cable box pulley hex nub , if your hub is the ex type, another possibility could be the oil needs to be changed, agood rinse and fresh oil may help out.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

...Or, the previous owner (or your shop) may have inadvertently misplaced one or both of those springs in the photo of post #51 of this thread.


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## crepitus (Nov 24, 2004)

Nate
I too have a VanDessel BuzzBomb. I just got a Avid dics brake to put on the back. I know I need the specific rotor. What do I need for the hub conversion. All I can find is on Sheldon Brown site, mentioning a $210 disc conversion kit. Is that right? $200 for the disc cap?
thanks


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## crepitus (Nov 24, 2004)

that chain tensioner is awesome! I bet you could make some $$ if you produced those for sale. I will be the first in line. how much??


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

crepitus said:


> ...mentioning a $210 disc conversion kit. Is that right? $200 for the disc cap?


I imagine that price includes the hub cap (which comes with a main bearing and seal installed) and the external shifter box, which is probably the bulk of the price.

If your hub is already outfitted with external shifting (as opposed to cables running directly into the hub), then you should only need the hub cap and rotor.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Timbo said:


> Assuming you were willing to make a new left hand drop out to accomodate an OEM axle plate I reckon this frame would be pretty good for a speedhub. You wouldn't need a chain tensioner or a speed bone.


The old and new style Kona A frames can both be adapted to easily fit a Rohloff hub by using a Rohloff-ready dropout from Brodie's 1 Ball frame, or a Misfit Psycle sliding dropout which is Rohloff ready. The A frames have the same BB concentric pivot as the Kona Cowan DS frame.

I've had the Rohloff on both the old and new Kona A frame, the older frame is lighter and has a higher ratio suspension (2.33:1 rocker ratio 1.5" travel shock for 3.5" travel) and the newer frame has a 2.0:1 ratio (2.0" travel shock for 4" travel). The lower ratio shock setup on the new frame tends to react more to pedal loads when you're starting out in a taller gear, and it seems to ride a bit harsher than it's shorter travel predecessor. It's easy to swap the SS and Rohloff drivetrain between the two A frames, only takes about 30 minutes to get them both reassembled so it's easy to compare them back to back..

Bikeman is listing the new style Kona A frames on their website.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

.....


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Some mo'


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Tscheezy, those tires are perverse! Are you having fun on that thing, or is Barny riding it exclusively? Either of you developing any love for the Speedhub yet? Also looks like some super-low tundra-crawling gearing you're running.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

She has only had one ride on the setup so far (the weather can't seem to make up it's mind so we went back to the standard rigs with studded tires for all the ice today) but it worked well. The Rohloff lends itself to this application very well as chainline is a real issue with such big meats (more precisely, the chain rubbing on the tire), so a "singlespeed" outboard chainline is the optimal solution. I didn't want to bother buying a new chainring, so we are running the 32. Since Barny only weighs 130#, I am not too concerned about her shredding the guts of the hub.  Plus, riding on snow sort of limits the torque you are going to lay down anyway.  She had some troubles with the 7-8 gear transition once or twice and needed to learn to back off the power during shifts, but I think she will get the hang of it. It's also her first time on gripshift style shifting, so she even twisted the wrong direction a few times. Baby steps. She's a super strong, technically adept rider, and digs the concept of snow biking, so I anticipate we will get some miles out of this monster yet. You look at a bike like that and think it's just gonna suck the life out of you, but she was actually pretty impressed at how well it rolls. 

Hopefully some action shots this weekend. This thread sorely needs some of those.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Geezz, those nokian......

But not much space between the tire and the wishbone for packed snow !


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## lesvan (Jun 15, 2006)

I am just getting into a Rohloff - waiting for it to arrive off of ebay. I have a Kona DAwg Primo fram I want to put it on. Is it possible to not use a tensioner? Do I need to "lop off" the old drop outs? That seems a bit much for me.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

lesvan said:


> I am just getting into a Rohloff - waiting for it to arrive off of ebay. I have a Kona DAwg Primo fram I want to put it on. Is it possible to not use a tensioner? Do I need to "lop off" the old drop outs? That seems a bit much for me.


The Dawg is 4-bar, right? You'll have to run the tensioner. Really no way around it on most FS bikes.


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Shots from last weekend, about 8AM. This bike is terrific in the snow, running the Nokian WXC300's and there's just enough rear suspension movement when pedaling (Fox RP3 on the Kona A) to keep the rear end from breaking loose when nice even spinning isn't an easy option. It's so fast and easy to do big gear changes that you sometimes need on slippery sections. And it's so slush resistant. 

Last year I had the Rohloff hub on a Brodie 1 Ball frame but the hardtail really bounced off of ruts and ridges in the snow, the rear squish helps keep the studs in contact with the snow/ice surface better. Still a bit of a hand full when the front wheel finds an ice rut under the snow.


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## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

no idea how i stumbled upon this thread, but anyway, some fun instigating comments:

-hey tscheezy did you steal those tires off a tractor or what the hell 

-anyone that buys a bike called "pissoff" is as pompous as the whole SS fad itself. it might be a pretty bike, but this is the internet and that's my opinion, so deal with it.

-as much as i bag on the SS cult fanboys, i honestly do hate the standard bicycle drivetrain and think it sucks rotting donkey balls. i long for the day when a reliable sturdy internal geared hub hits the market that doesn't both weigh a friggin ton or break the bank. i truly hope the boys and girls from Rohloff can make it happen soon, and i can tell Shimano to kiss my ass once and for all...

-i think that's about it. oh yea, snow sucks, and so do tubes. i'm sure those are drivetrain related _somehow_


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

Inspired by tscheezy's shots of his speedboneless setup, I decided to hack up my rear brake to get the same sort of thing. The Juicy's have this CPS thing whereby the caliper is post mount onto what is effectively an IS adapter, but with conical washers so that it can be aligned perfectly.

What I've done is to mill a 1.4mm flat around the rearward side of the IS adapter and lathed a couple of 3mm spacers to go inbetween my frame's mount and the adapter. I'm pretty happy with it; it looks a lot cleaner now without the speedbone.


















​


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Timbo,

When you say you "milled" it, does mill = flat file, or did you really approach this with some technical precision? FWIW, I likey!


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Timbo said:


> Inspired by tscheezy's shots of his speedboneless setup...


I prefer "speedfilleted," personally.


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

Speedub.Nate said:


> When you say you "milled" it, does mill = flat file, or did you really approach this with some technical precision? FWIW, I likey!


I used my milling machine .



tscheezy said:


> I prefer "speedfilleted," personally.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Timbo said:


> I used my milling machine


Dude!


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## Scherge (Nov 7, 2006)

Timbo said:


> I have actually had something like that planned for a while...
> 
> ...I just need to summon up the time (and energy) to actually manufacture it. I've heard rumours that Nicolai are making a trigger shifter soon though, which kind of puts me off doing so .


hi timbo,

wow, this looks great. you should try to realize your idea concerning a trigger shifter.

btw you are right; nicolai plans to have a trigger shifter for speedhub production ready for eurobike 2007, but nevertheless you should continue with your plan.

regards,
philip

p.s.: here a pic of my 2006 helius fr with speedhub: http://fotos.mtb-news.de/fotos/showphoto.php/photo/260252/cat/11809


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## Timbo (Jan 8, 2004)

Scherge said:


> btw you are right; nicolai plans to have a trigger shifter for speedhub production ready for eurobike 2007, but nevertheless you should continue with your plan.


Where did you hear of this anyway? Is it confirmed on any website?


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## Scherge (Nov 7, 2006)

Timbo said:


> Where did you hear of this anyway? Is it confirmed on any website?


i have this info from a personal conversation with falco mille, one of the nicolai employees during this year's yearly in-house exhibition, where the company's crew always show people around the whole production facility and present next year's products.

but you will also find this confirmed in the web: http://www.g-boxx.com/

just read the pdf-file, it is mentioned there besides the announcement of a new gearbox with 7 or 9 speed for freeride use to come next year. i just hope that they can hold the schedule with all their gorgeous inventions...i am so eager to read the first reviews about these things...


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## wookieone (Mar 21, 2006)

*rohloff questions*

so all you rohloff experts, what is the smallest front chainring recomened or succesfully used out there? I hope to maybe get myself one of these babies but will be both trail riding and Touring with a bit of weight and want to be sure it will supply low enough of a gear to get up steep hills without busting the knees out. Seems most pictures show big gears up front, what sort of gear ratios does this allow? Would love any advice thanks.


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## Rainman (Apr 18, 2004)

wookieone said:


> so all you rohloff experts, what is the smallest front chainring recomened or succesfully used out there? I hope to maybe get myself one of these babies but will be both trail riding and Touring with a bit of weight and want to be sure it will supply low enough of a gear to get up steep hills without busting the knees out. Seems most pictures show big gears up front, what sort of gear ratios does this allow? Would love any advice thanks.


32 tooth on the front with a 13 tooth rear cog is the minimum Rohloff recommended ratio.

The standard gearing is usually 38/16.

R.


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Ok, the pics as promised:




























She is still having troubles with the 7/8 gear transition. It totally locks out.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

tscheezy said:


> She is still having troubles with the 7/8 gear transition. It totally locks out.


Nevertheless, a *great* looking hub you've got there, Tscheezy!


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## Oslo_biker (Nov 30, 2005)

Timbo said:


> ...I just need to summon up the time (and energy) to actually manufacture it. I've heard rumours that Nicolai are making a trigger shifter soon though, which kind of puts me off doing so .


Well, Rohloff is going to introduce a trigger shifter themselves for the Speedhub Light that will be available after Eurobike 2007.


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## geiranders (Jan 25, 2005)

*Latest news and facts about Speedhub Light*

Oslo_Biker is right, just thought I could pass on some more information I got first hand from Rohloff in Germany today:

This week the German magazine Bike published a short interview with Bernhard Rohloff, who stated that the new Speedhub Lite will be released in spring 2007. My local dealer in Oslo soon after claimed this information was incorrect, and that there is no release date yet. Being a journalist at the norwegian mtb magazine terrengsykkel.no, I called up the Rohloff HQ to check out the facts. I then had two conversations with product manager Carsten Geck and mrs Rohloff herself, she runs the sales department.

This is what they had to say:

- The new Speedhub Lite will be 500 grams lighter
- It will also be smaller than the existing model
- It will most probably have a trigger shifter option
- It will have a 100 kg rider weight limit
- It will not be guaranteed for tandem use
- It will last for at least 50.000 km of "sporty riding"
- It will cost approx 30-50% more than today's version
- It will be shown at the Eurobike show in september 2007
- Hopefully they will supply dealers with the new hubs shortly after

Regarding the 50.000 km estimate, Mr. Geck said the lighter hub's internals would be subject to wear over time, as opposed to the original hub, which will not develop wear in the internal components as long as it gets the oil changes in time... They look at the Speedhub Light as a racing part, made for riders that are not obsessed with eternal component life.

If I ride six hours every week all year, averaging 6 km/h on technical trails - I'll get more than 26 years out of the Speedhub Light....

They have been working on the Speedhub Light project full time for two years now, and Geck explained this task as a very difficult one. They could not yet say wether the new hub will be compatible with the old shifters. Mr Geck added that the internals are totally different than today's hub, and that cramming all the internals into the new, more compact format really is a huge engineering challenge. He also stated that the development of the trigger shifter is not finished, and would only say that they "most probably" would release it along with the new hub in September next year.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Yewaahhh , good news , it's gonna put a bit of pressure on Shimano and SRAM now that there won't be that "weight penality" 

Do you know if it is still 14 speeds ?
Same % ratios ?


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## rs3o (Jan 12, 2004)

This is huge (as is the price!). I hope another item they have addressed is eliminating the speedbone with disk brakes though it appears from one of the above posts that there is an elegant work-around. I'll start saving up now so I can get the light version for my RacerX and move the current Speedhub to the commuter bike. Woohoo!


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## geiranders (Jan 25, 2005)

fokof said:


> Do you know if it is still 14 speeds ?
> Same % ratios ?


Still 14 speeds, didn't talk about the ratios - but they ensured the function would be the same.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Beautiful! That is great news, now that it is coming directly from the source.

Honestly, I'm going to have a tough time justifying the extra bucks for the weight it saves, and not to mention the "less robust" internals. But all the same, this 500g reduction addressess the major complaint among the most vocal Speedhub opponents (too bad the high price is tied for major complaint #2).


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

That does sound interesting. I would sort of need a few folks to verify the 50k lifespan first though, so I guess I may have to wait a little...


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## salimoneus (Oct 12, 2004)

geiranders said:


> ...
> - It will be shown at the Eurobike show in september 2007
> - Hopefully they will supply dealers with the new hubs shortly after
> ...


so basically sometime early 2008? ugh...


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

tscheezy said:


> ... I would sort of need a few folks to verify the 50k lifespan first though....


Not to worry, there are plenty of us around!

I'm sure they would do something for you if it didnot live up to it's design criteria - that's been my experience to date with Rohloff.


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## TiRyder (Mar 8, 2005)

*Rotors?*

Anyone know where I can get some Rotors?

I did the research, mainly on MTBR.com, read the reviews, and spoke to Thomas at Interbike before deciding to go with the Rohloff. Now I have a new Rohloff mounted to a new Mooto-X and cant hit the trails because I have no rotor. I have called and emailed Thomas, but have not gotten a response.

I would really rather have the Galfer Wavy. I have called Galfer direct, but they are curently out of stock. Seems I cant find the rotors in stock any. The best I have found is the older style round rotor from SJScycles.com in the UK. I would rather buy from US.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks - Rob


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## Oslo_biker (Nov 30, 2005)

Order directly from Germany at Starbike.com. You'll find everything you need there.


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

Hope is doin some :
http://www.hopetechusa.com/voir_mm2disc_image_3.html

Check at Sheldon brown , the best Speedhub guy around ;

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/rohloff/parts.html#discs


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

Magura USA can supply the Marta rotor for a Rohloff, it was about $75 if I remember correctly, you can contact them directly at www.magurausa.com

I bought a Galfer Rohloff rotor from Webcyclery.com when I bought my Rohloff wheelset from them, a phone call might be needed, they don't list them on the site.

Speedgoat.com lists a Rohloff brake rotor (likely a Galfer)



TiRyder said:


> Anyone know where I can get some Rotors?
> 
> I did the research, mainly on MTBR.com, read the reviews, and spoke to Thomas at Interbike before deciding to go with the Rohloff. Now I have a new Rohloff mounted to a new Mooto-X and cant hit the trails because I have no rotor. I have called and emailed Thomas, but have not gotten a response.
> 
> ...


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

I'm still getting used to that 7/8. It's a pain when you're locked (well, in top gear).

I did the oil change on the weekend. Initial feeling is that it is a quieter and smoother in the gears that were already smooth. Will need to give it more of a wearing in I suppose.

There's a link to a video of the oil change process here (as well as some other useful Rohloff info):

http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/faq.html


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## red-haze.com (Jan 16, 2004)

*Dirty Dog Dragon rotor from Universal*

Universal mike ordered mine and he got it in a few days and shipped it up to me.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=14352&category=15
just finished my rohloff build and mounted it all on the Vulture, heading out in a few minutes to try it on local trails.

the dragon rotor looks very nice, now I want one for the front.

bike ON
bob


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## testudograeca (Jun 16, 2006)

*Some Speedhub-equipped bikes.....*

Hello there,

I'm fairly new to this forum, but I've been using Speedhubs for a while now.

I've grown tired of extolling their virtues to friends who can't seem to understand why I like them so much, so it's good to be able to post some photos for people who are interested&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.

This was the first bike I built using a Speedhub. It's an On One Inbred EBB with added cable guides -








Here's a webpage I knocked up in an attempt to explain my reasons for going Rohloff - http://www.diesel.34sp.com/iainsinbredrohloffpage.htm

The following are a few other bikes I've built up using Speedhubs -

Specialized FSR










Dawes Edge FS










Orange Sub 5










Orange 5 - one of my favourites










and from the other side&#8230;.










My wife's Giant Trance










My Giant Trance










And these are my current bikes -

Thorn Raven Enduro










Nicolai Helius CC










On One Inbred 29er








I hope the photos are of use to some of you. When I first started using them, information on Speedhubs was harder to come by than it is these days. As a result, I had to use a lot of guesswork with my early builds. I've amassed a collection of images showing cable routing, etc, on different installations in various frames - you never know when these things might come in handy - I seem to have a habit of changing my bikes (not hubs) rather more often than I should&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;

For anyone who has wondered what it's like, here are a couple of photos of the Rohloff factory, taken on a recent trip there to have one of my hubs converted to disc spec.​
















Cheers,

Iain


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## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

A few more action shots:


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

*Rohloff Speedhub and my Scott Genius*

Bike is clean :thumbsup:


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

*Rohloff Speedhub and my Scott Genius*

and now finally dirty


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## thebigred67 (Mar 29, 2005)

I love that part that David has. It would be awesome to see a sprung version that would work on a bullet!


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

News of Rohloff's upcoming Speedhub Lite (now _Speedhub 09_) here: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=341260


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## JEA (Aug 24, 2004)

About Rohloff and chain tensioner without a spring for a hardtail.
I found these pictures, made by David, see page 1

























































Inspired by this tensioner we decided to make our own
After receiving the dimensions from this tensioner made by David 
and receiving some dimensions of the Rohloff hub provided by Carsten Geck from Rohloff AG

We build one

































According to Carsten it wouldn't work, the chain will jump off the derrailleur wheel.
And that is what happened. 
So we improved the thing by using a larger derrailleur wheel and on the inside we positioned an piece of an old derailleur cage.
On the inside the chain is guided by the derailleur cage and on the outside the chain is guided by the holder itself.
We tested it for many miles through rough terrain, the driver is an experienced competition driver. 
https://www.pleijwierden.nl

And until now the system worked well.
Regards from Holland
JE


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

*Rohloff fitted to a specialized enduro*

Hi I am awaiting my new hub and am wanting thoughts on chain guides. Are they a definite requirement for a full sus bike? I guessing the answer is yes so what is recommended?
The rohloff CC chain guide wont fit my Enduro due to size of the seat stay tube.
I was looking at a E Thirteen LG1 ISCG - ISCG 05 . do I really need the bottom guide as well or will just the top do the job?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

TF2 said:


> Hi I am awaiting my new hub and am wanting thoughts on chain guides. Are they a definite requirement for a full sus bike? I guessing the answer is yes so what is recommended?
> The rohloff CC chain guide wont fit my Enduro due to size of the seat stay tube.
> I was looking at a E Thirteen LG1 ISCG - ISCG 05 . do I really need the bottom guide as well or will just the top do the job?


Not a requirement, but chances are you'll need one. Of course you'll want a SS-style chainring with full height teeth to help prevent the chain from derailing, but in my experience, even that's no guarantee. I rode one bike many times before my chain began falling off -- three times in one ride. On another bike without a chain guide, on my second ride out, a dropped chain resulted in a bent chainring and spider.

Due to seat tube issues, I run the E Thirteen LG1 on my wife's bike and it works great. I've hacksawed the lower roller off so that all that's there is the chainguide mounted to the plate. Works wonderfully.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

Thanks for your thoughts. I was reading about the E thirteen LG1 last night. The manual for the LG1says the chainring needs to be mounted in the middle position. My understanding is to get the correct chainline of 54mm for the Rohloff I need to use the outer ring position. How did you go setting that up?
Ive been looking at Blackspire and E-thirteen Chainrings in the SS/ downhill design. Are these worth looking at or can you recommend any other chainrings that will give a good life span.


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## BiggerT (Jul 12, 2006)

Hi

I'm running a rohloff on a Full Suss Stumpjumper. No chain guides. Just a rohloff tensioner on the back and a normal chainring up front. I don't do extremely extreme but do quite rough stuff. Had no issues at all.No chain derailment, no skipping. All works great.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

I guess I'll just try it out then and go to a chain guide if required. I am assuming that a single speed chain would help. Not having as much side ways flexibility built into them for changing would help them stay on rather than using a 8 or 9 speed chain.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

TF2 said:


> Not having as much side ways flexibility built into them for changing would help them stay on rather than using a 8 or 9 speed chain.


If you do, be sure to report back. I've only run 8 and 9 speed chains on mine. I read some advice that suggested a singlespeed chain is less tolerant because it doesn't provide as much side-to-side flex, making it easier to derail on a full-suspension bike when the trail is bouncing it around. If you run without a guide, try both types of chain and let us know which works better.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

Will do. I'll keep you informed. Now I just need it to turn up so I can start running it in. If ever I needed an excuse to put some miles on my bike this is it.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

TF2 said:


> The manual for the LG1says the chainring needs to be mounted in the middle position. My understanding is to get the correct chainline of 54mm for the Rohloff I need to use the outer ring position. How did you go setting that up?
> 
> Ive been looking at Blackspire and E-thirteen Chainrings in the SS/ downhill design. Are these worth looking at or can you recommend any other chainrings that will give a good life span.


Oops, sorry, missed this question.

You're correct, the outer position of a crank with a 47.5/48mm chainline gets you a 54mm chainline at the outer ring position -- right in line with the Speedhub cog.

On this setup, I used a longer spindle to bump the chainline out so the chainring would line up with the middle ring position. You'll need to go 4mm wider (8mm total when you're shopping for spindle length) than the 50mm chainline that seems prevelent these days.

I've used Surly stainless, Blackspire DH and DS, and various Salsa rings with great success. No complaints with any of them.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

OK this is the problem..
I am about to set up my Specialized Enduro SL with my first Rohloff hub. 
I have just purchased a E-13 chainring and found it is designed to be fitted to the middle ring position. ie the recess for the bolts is on the inner face of the chainring:madman: 
.
1. Can I just turn it around to face the other way or do I have to buy a new chainring 
I see that FSA make a chainring with both sides recessed so that it can be fitted to the middle and outer chainring position.

I am running with XT cranks which has the outer chainring sitting more than the 54mm recommended is this a problem or does it not have to be exactly 54mm??
Thanks


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Those recesses (counterbores) need not be a factor. In fact, a great benefit of the Speedhub is that chainrings, once worn, can be >reversed< for about 2x the life -- which, of course, means flipping the counterbores facing the other direction.

So don't sweat it, mount it. Make sure the chainring nuts have enough extension to engage the spider.

Use bottom bracket shims and chainring spacers to get as close to "perfect alignment" as you can muster. Some tolerance is allowed, but the straighter your chainline, the smoother, quieter, and longer your drivetrain will run.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

*New Rohloff fitted*

Ok the new hub is on. It weighed in at an extra 540 grams more than previous setup (Specialized Enduro Expert) . This was checked by weighing all components coming off and all new components going on. Using calibrated scales.
I have now done 135km mainly off road with the hub fitted so I am no expert but I will say the bike feels well balanced with no obvious change in handling. the noise is not an issue 7th gear makes some sound but it is not anything annoying and going by other posts this gets better with more Km done.
So I can only say that this hub is a wonderful piece of equipment and it is nice to be able to change gears when desired which was good on the weekend ride with mud areas putting a stop to pedalling at times. Just change down and keep on going.
One happy customer.:thumbsup:


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

*I need some help*

Hi
I need some help here. I lost one of the bolts from my speedbone, that one, which holds the support peg (there are 3 bolts in total, 2 for brake caliper and one for the support peg).

Can someone tell me what are the measurements of that bolts
thanks


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

*Chain life with Rohloff*

I have now done approx 700 Km's with my new hub:thumbsup: . I guess 2/3 on road 1/3 off road. I checked the chain today and was surprised to see that the chain wear indicator on the .75 setting was already falling into the links(Park tools chain wear indicator). It has been quite dry since fitting the hub so minimal mud riding. Is it just me I thought the chain life was typically longer due to the straight chainline setup. I am running a E13 40T chainring with the standard 16T rear sprocket and a Connex Wipperman 808 8 speed chain. The chain is cleaned and lubed after every off road ride. Are others getting longer life out of there chains


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

*re: Chain Life w/ Rohloff...*

It's been awhile since I've had a derailleur drivetrain to compare to, but my non-mileage based assessment is extended life due to the Speedhub. 700km / 430 mi is way too short.

However, your measuring device is suspect. I'm not a fan of those drop 'n go chain checkers -- not even Rohloff's -- because they measure for chain wear using a false premise, and will always give a false positive.

Rather than re-ranting what's already been ranted, check out this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=215824

Grab a ruler and check again. I'll bet your chain is A-OK.


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## slaw (Apr 6, 2004)

I've been using the same Connex chain and it looks like it is worn out after what seems to be too short a time (not sure of the distance - maybe 1 or 2000km). Time to try a different chain I think. Initially my chain line was out by a few mm so that might have contributed.


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

I've been trying to come up with what could possibly contribute to short chain life when running a Speedhub. I'm at a loss.

No matter what:

- Same pedaling loads on the chain as a derailleur setup, since the hub is essentially geared the same as a derailleur setup, minus all the side loads and shifting abuse.

- Same straight-as-an-arrow chainline of a singlespeed setup, potentially minus most of the loads a hammering singlespeeder can dish out when stomping up a steep hill.

There's really nothing else different.

So just based on that logic the life span should be longer, or under certain conditions, identical to, those two conventinal drivetrains. I can't think of any factor where it would become *worse*. 

And to repeat myself, I'd re-think my choice of measurin' stick. As shown in the thread I linked to, my Rohloff gauge indicated "done" when in reality I was only half-way to the magic mark.


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## TF2 (Feb 17, 2008)

I have re measured my chain with a rule. It is probably half worn and not .75 as the tool indicated. But it still seems to be quicker wear than I would of expected.:madman:


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Hey, just to mix things up a little and keep this thread fresh, lemme throw this beauty at you guys.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Chain-life - I get the same chain life as an SS bike, which is less than dérailleurs. I think it is because the main reason for wear is dirt & mud, and since the Rohloff (or SS) keeps working in the worst mud, you just grind the chain down. Dérailleurs prevent excess chain wear in these instances by jamming up and stopping the chain. Also the chain is shorter. Actual chain life depends on riding conditions & quality of chain, and for me it can vary from 2 months to 2 years.

As for chain measuring devices, I like the Rohloff one best. The Park is very go/no-go, and the no-go is usually too late. The new Fizer I have is also very nice. After a while, you get a good feel for when the chains are worn, and I find that the .75 on my Rohloff is a good gage - the .75 on the Park is too late. Hanging the chain on the wall next to a new one is good too, but I don't take my chains off my bikes unless I have too.

Speedub: is that a Formula 210 rotor for a Rohloff? or an the old 4-bolt sub-standard?


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## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

itsdoable said:


> As for chain measuring devices, I like the Rohloff one best. The Park is very go/no-go, and the no-go is usually too late. The new Fizer I have is also very nice. After a while, you get a good feel for when the chains are worn, and I find that the .75 on my Rohloff is a good gage - the .75 on the Park is too late. Hanging the chain on the wall next to a new one is good too, but I don't take my chains off my bikes unless I have too.
> 
> Speedub: is that a Formula 210 rotor for a Rohloff? or an the old 4-bolt sub-standard?


Close: the rotor is a custom cut 220mm with a Speedhub 4-bolt mount. This will find a home on the back end of our tandem, just as soon as I can secure a hub & wheel for it.

Just a quick recap of my experience with the Go/No-Go wear gauge vs. rulers:
https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=215824

Photo #1: Rohloff gauge @ 0.075mm (0.59% stretch) reads "DEAD: Trash-Can It!"
Photo #2: Same chain with 15" ruler: 368mm=NEW, 370mm (white mark)=0.5% - chain is only half-way dead.
Photo #3: Same chain with yardstick: Green=NEW, Red=DEAD (0.5%), chain is only half-way dead.

You can dive into the post I linked to for all the juicy details.


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## itsdoable (Jan 6, 2004)

Speedub.Nate said:


> Just a quick recap of my experience with the Go/No-Go wear gauge vs. rulers:
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=215824


Yes, read the write up, good stuff.

I suspect there are some differences between gages, and if the tool has been dropped or banged around.

My experience with the gages is that my chains are fine right until the Rohloff tool drops in all the way (@0.75), then if I run the chain a bit more, it always skips on some cogs of a cassette, or makes noise on a new SS cog. So I often replace the chain just before the tool drops all the way in. My new Fizer tool is graduated in 4 steps, and behave similarly.

My Park tool is definitely a go-no go, it does not drop in till much later, and I always have to replace cogs or chain rings. I've been meaning to grind that tool down a bit so it drops eariler, but I haven't bothered since the Rohloff works for me.

I've used the ruler method (mostly before I got the rohloff tool) and it's good. But I find it hard to accurately place the reference end of the ruler, while checking the other end. Any tiny error or slip means the reading is crap. Also eyeballing the center of the pin (I often go from the edge of the pin) is not that easy. Sometimes its hard to place the ruler while the chain is on a bike, especially with SS drivetrains with a short CS.

Thus for the chains I use, and the wear I get, I've found the Rohloff (and the Fizer) tool to be more practical, and sufficiently accurate.

PS; do you have another one of those rotors?


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## robcalm (May 7, 2007)

*wavey rotor source*

Hi there,

Does anyone know where I could get one of the galfer wavey rotors for my speedhub. I know they aren't made anymore, but maybe there is some old stock out there somewhere. Failing that, any recommendations for the best rotor for the speedhub. I've seen the ones with dragons, and lizards and bunnies and stuff, but I'm not a fan of all those sharp bits sticking out!

Rob


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

You could go for the Marta SL Rohloff rotor

http://www.magura.com/7thsenseCMS/index.php?id=11090&L=1


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## robcalm (May 7, 2007)

*mmm nice*

Thats a tidy looking rotor. I'll see if i can find any online retailers for it... maybe you have a link?

Also, while I'm on it,

I have a problem with my speedhub moving in the dropout when a lot of sideways stress is put on the back wheel (read: hitting the ground hard and kind of sideways due to lack of rider skill). Compared to all other hubs, which have a sort of grooved washer that sits up against the frame, the speedhub is smooth. I have tried a couple of different QR skewers, but no luck. Has anyone else had this problem or knows of a possible fix. Maybe there is a particular skewer brand that holds on tighter?

My bike is a Santa Cruz superlight set up for heavier trail riding, and I use juicy 7 brakes. The thing about the dropout on this frame is that it is smooth on both sides, with no grooves to stop the slippage... kind of irritating.

Rob


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

I bought one of the rotors from Magura USA, but they stopped dealing directly with consumers. Any bike shop that sells Magura should be able to order them.

I switched to a DT Swiss QR skewer as I had the same sort of problem of my hub slipping out of the dropout on my Kona A.


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## robcalm (May 7, 2007)

Thanks a heap, I really appreciate your fast and helpful replies. I was going to order some stuff from universal anyway, so that is just perfect. What brakes do you run, and do you see any issues with the magura rotor with the juicy 7's (I would guess not).

Rob


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## fokof (Apr 24, 2006)

robcalm said:


> Does anyone know where I could get one of the galfer wavey rotors for my speedhub.


There you go;

http://www.speedgoat.com/productB.asp?part=136461


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## richdirector (Apr 25, 2007)

*My build*

I built up a bike last year. 
http://richards-titanium-rohloff-mission.blogspot.com/










Used old GT xizang and rohloff. Built up on Mavic XM819 hoops - front hub is Hope Pro3 - brakes Avid / XTR .... moots seatpost (1cm too short :madman: )
Have been playing around with the setup a bit and just about to change the gearing - was still using a 32:16 setup so need to get it up to a 38:16 40:16 but really dont want to lose the perfect length :eekster: - At the moment not having to use a tensioner and I love the simplicity of it all.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

*Custom rotor*



Speedub.Nate said:


> Hey, just to mix things up a little and keep this thread fresh, lemme throw this beauty at you guys.


Hmmm, any chance that they cut 200 or 203 mm rotors?


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## nicolap99 (Mar 21, 2006)

*Nicolai Helius CC Rohloff*

Just keeping the thread fresh, see my new bike.

Nicolai Helius CC Rohloff - frame is a Rohloff specific version with custom cable routing for the Speedhub.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Nice! What did you have to do to the width of the drive train and shimming/spacing the front ring gear to compensate for the Rohloff rear sprocket to have a straight drive line for the chain?

I've got a Bionicon Edison about to get switched over to a Rohloff from a 135mm DT Swiss 440 FreeRide with a Sram 11-34 990 cassette. Front end is a Truvativ Firex 3:3 with 175mm cranks.


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## nicolap99 (Mar 21, 2006)

Thanks RandyBoy

Using a Shimano XT HTII chain set, the bottom bracket shell width is 68mm, so I'm using the standard set up for these cranks.
One 2.5mm spacer on the non drive side - and two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side.

The 38T chain ring is in the outer chain ring position (where the 44T would normally be). Chainline is spot on.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Improvising here since I've only had the Rohloff 20 hour in this picture. Still need to get a 203mm adapter for the Formula rear, and a proper tensioner for the chain, as well as a 38 tooth ring gear is on the way. Oh yeah, and the 729 is "cooked" as the previous owner stated. He used it for free ride, the pedals in the lower 7 gears have a different feel under load, there's a lot going on inside that hub whirling away.

I bought this second hand, and the owner didn't seem to ride it much, injured his ACL early on.




























Two months ago, my Bionicon Edison looked like this:










I greased the external gear box up with a slight film of high temp moly bearing grease, adjusted the cables to get a bit of the slop out of the shifter at the grip, and the beast whirs along now like a Rolex...Hmmm maybe more like a TagHeuer Carrera Chronymetre.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Killroy said:


> To summarize, is it correct to say that the gear hub produces a 400-500 g lighter bike and a more robust design, but for more money?
> 
> What is the price tag, again?


About that much more in weight, and as of Sept 2008, about $1400. The little goodies you need to complete a Rohloff add up fast, $90 rotor, speed bone, chain tensioner or some models. Plus figure the price of a rim, spokes and nipples, plus labor to build it up, if you don't have the skills yourself.

But it's worth it, once you get over the price tag.


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## YONO (Aug 9, 2005)

*Hardtail Pinch Flat Hell*

I'm starting to loose it. I'm pinch flatting all the time on my local trail.

What are you other hardtail SpeedHubbers doing about this?

I've tried the tubless (Stan's conversion) and that works well for a while. I get frustrated not knowing when I need to add/replace sealant to the tire.

I'm on a RhynoLite 29er rim and a Little Fat Albert Tire on the rear.

Is there a combo that people have found to be a good solution? Tube or tubless?

Maybe I'm getting cheap tubes from the LBS. They are Bontrager.

At this point, I'd settle for just a bunch of commiseration but if anyone has some suggestions, I'm all ears.


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## Ptor (Jan 29, 2004)

YONO said:


> I'm pinch flatting all the time on my local trail.
> 
> What are you other hardtail SpeedHubbers doing about this?


Ghetto-tubeless using Small Blocks, Nanoraptor, Ignitor, or Fast Track have all worked well for me. Really, you just have to get competent with tubeless. Consider weighing your wheel every couple of weeks and if you drop 1/2 the weight of the juice you've added, then it's time to put some more in through the valve stem. The residue left behind as the juice dries out weighs next to nothing, and particularly in the context of the weight of a Rholoff wheel it really is nothing...

Also, little fat albert tires don't have that much volume and considering how small they are they're not that light. So try a tire with more volume -- the Nanoraptor is a nice tall tire with lots of volume and in my view would be a lot less likely to lend itself to pinch flats than an albert...


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## YONO (Aug 9, 2005)

*Nanoraptor and the sauce*

Great stuff. Thanks for the advice. Would you say Stan's sealant or Bontrager Super Juice, or something else?


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## Ptor (Jan 29, 2004)

YONO said:


> Would you say Stan's sealant or Bontrager Super Juice, or something else?


I haven't used commercial stuff in several years, but the Stan's worked well enough back then (just expensive) and I've never used the Bontrager stuff. My homemade stuff is different every time, but the last time around I used (more or less) the following formula (culled from various MTBR posts on the topic): 1 part latex mold builder, 1 part anti-freeze (prevents freezing and rapid evaporation), 1 part slime. I used about 60 ml of this mix per tire. I note that mounting a fresh tire quickly uses up some of the sealant. If you really want this to work when you mount a new tire, add the sealant, get it to seal, ride if for a few days (maybe 50 miles) and then pop the bead off the rim, drain the fluid that's there (many times it's clearly been depleted of the latex and slime sealant) and put in a fresh 60 ml aliquot of sealant. Then ride flat free (barring a sizable side-wall cut) for 2 or 3 months. When you can't hear the sloshing anymore, or the wheel loses weight, or you think it might be time, use a 30 ml syringe to shoot some more sealant through the valve. I use a homemade rim strip made from a 650c presta tube with a removable presta valve, so adding sealant is very easy. I top my tires off about every 3 months and end up ruining about one tire a year with some nasty cut -- but those are my only flats. I don't change tires except for when I trash one, so the hassle of set-up is more than made up for the lack of flats (I live in rocky cactus country, so lots of opportunities for punctures and pinch-flats. Tubeless coupled with the Rohloff (or singlespeed) and no suspension has made my riding damn near maintenance free...


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## YONO (Aug 9, 2005)

*Got it*

Thanks PeT, I'm all in. I love the DIY factor. Thanks for sharing your formula for the sealant. I'll post back how it goes after a few runs down my local "pinch flat" hill. That is a beautiful and clean setup you have there in the picture.


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## tatankainlondon (Apr 4, 2004)

JEA said:


>


What a beauty :eekster:


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## finger51 (Jul 21, 2006)

Scherge said:


> hi timbo,
> btw you are right; nicolai plans to have a trigger shifter for speedhub production ready for eurobike 2007 ...


LOL!


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