# (MkIII) Hopey Damper install pics...



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

This post is one in a series of twelve posts depcting the build of my Hollowpoint MkIII.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055

After browsing the glowing Hopey reviews on MTBR back in November '04, I posted this thread asking about a Hopey steering damper for my wife's bike, mainly in the interest of helping her out on some climbs.

https://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Extras/product_68285.shtml

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=60138

After installing her Hopey early this summer and observing some real improvements follow-up Hopey thread in how she negotiated terrain, I began playing with it myself and decided to install one on my own bike.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=105373

I've only taken the new bike out three times, so I'm not ready to post a full review, but my initial impressions are extremely positive. I especially appreciate that I can pay less attention to the front end of the bike while grinding up a steep climb. The bike tracks nicely through ruts at speed, and the Hopey really stabilizes things when plowing through sandy patches on the trail, working against front-end washout. I've yet to work it through any tight, technical terrain or rock gardens.

In any case, the purpose of this post is to review the installation. Hopey's installation instructions left me with some questions the first time around. I called back for technical support a couple of times, and have clarified the installation to where it makes much more sense (to me, at least).

https://www.merchantmanager.com/timhopey/mounting.htm

So on with the installation. First things first, you'll need to remove your star nut completely from your fork's steerer tube. I've outlined that procedure in a separate post.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189999

The Hopey kit consists of the damper cartridge, a post and an adapter bracket. Note that the damper cartridge has a 12mm nut at the bottom of the assembly that must be tightened from below (once the damper is inserted into the steerer), hence the need to remove the star nut.

This particular installation is intended to fit my MkIII's Zero Stack head tube, so the adapter is different than what would be included for a conventional threadless headset. Hopey also has adapters for Cannondale Lefty forks, OnePointFive steerers, a version to fit the RS Boxxer, and a "Superlight" version that shaves a few grams.










The first order of business is to remove the upper headset cup, install the adapter, and replace the cup. I've covered Homemade Headset Tools in a separate post.

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007

The threaded post hole in the adapter should be centered on the top tube. Don't tighten the pinch bolt yet.



















Here's where I break from Hopey's instructions just a bit.

The threads at the top of the damper assembly are not supposed to "nest in" or bottom out on the stem. The reason? When tightening the 12mm nut (which binds the damper to the steerer tube), the damper must be allowed to "pull down" into the steerer. If the stem restricts the damper from moving, the damper may be improperly secured to the steerer or the unit may be damaged.

My workaround? Leave about 5mm of steerer exposed above the stem...










...then place a 10mm spacer over it.

As it turns out, the inner diameter of a stem spacer is slightly larger than the inner diameter of a pinched stem. Where the threaded section of the Hopey would bottom out on the stem, it moves freely inside the spacer.










Next item is to load the headset bearings. Because the star nut has been removed, use a star nut substitute such as Profile Design's Gap Cap (https://www.profile-design.com/2006_product_pages/accesories/acc_karbon_gapcap.html), an FSA's Conix or Compressor (https://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=34&pid=250), or Azonic's Headlock to tighten the bearings. The Gap Cap and Compressor are usually available at shops that sell carbon road forks.

Tighten the plug to eliminate any fore/aft slop, but not so tight that the bearings bind when you turn the handlebars.










Once the headset bearings are sufficiently loaded, tighten the stem and Hopey adapter pinch bolts. Remove the star nut substitute from the top of the steerer tube.










You'll need to cut post so it ends 8mm below the top of the stem assembly. Measure twice, cut once -- additional posts can be ordered from Hopey if you screw up.










I use a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel, but a hacksaw works fine, too.

















Install the post into the adapter and grease the upper end where it will interface with the damper arm.










Screw the 35mm bolt (indicated) down towards the bottom of the threads. The damper will rest on this bolt once you insert it in the steerer.










Before inserting the damper assembly, identify the centering mark (small dimple: indicated) and ensure it aligned 180° from the damper arm. So yeah, it should be pointed straight forward when you set the damper assembly in the steerer tube.



















Now grab your 12mm socket and whatever extension arms you need to reach the 12mm bolt through the bottom of the steerer tube. It's a tight fit, so you may want to remove your front wheel for this step.

Initially, get the 12mm nut hand tight -- just enough so that the damper assembly doesn't rotate or pull out of the steerer.










Unscrew the 35mm nut to the top of the threads. This will give the damper assembly a bit of room to "pull down" into the steerer in the next step.










Grab your torque wrench (you have a torque wrench, right?) and torque that 12mm nut down to 18 to 24 foot-pounds.










Finished? Double check that the little alignment divot is still pointing straight forward. Keep in mind that the damper features a free (undamped) return to the center position, and if your little divot is canted off to one side, you're going to meet resistance when you turn the bars straight.

If the cartridge is off center, you'll need to loosen the 12mm nut and begin again.










If everything is centered, snug the 35mm nut down and hit the trail!










[TH]Index of MkIII Build Posts[/TH]
[TH][/TH][/TR]
[TD]*
MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics

Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)

Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)

Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment

White Brothers 2006 Technology*[/TD]

[TD]*White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn

Stripping Anodization

Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation

Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)

Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing*[/TD][TD]*Hopey Steering Damper Installation

Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame

Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools

Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut)*[/TD][/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]


----------



## RuNDmC1087 (Sep 13, 2004)

I never did understand what that thing actually does....


----------



## free-rider_down-hiller (Jun 1, 2005)

hey tell me how it work PM me ok


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

RuNDmC1087 said:


> I never did understand what that thing actually does....


Wait, and that's a MX bike in your avitar? I thought youz guyz were all about steering dampers!

Oh, wait, that's just a big azz DH rig.


----------



## Salami (Jan 13, 2004)

Speedub.Nate said:


> You'll need to cut post so it ends 8mm below the top of the stem assembly. Measure twice, cut once -- additional posts can be ordered from Hopey if you screw up


I didn't realize that the post was supposed to be cut to size. This is good news. Do you know if there is a limit of how much it can be cut down? I want to use one on my Sunday with a Boxxer direct mount stem, super short steerer tube.


----------



## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

NATE ! amazing job. you need to write instruction manuals and your photos are fantastic.

i have a brand new Hopey for sale.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130351


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

M1_joel said:


> i have a brand new Hopey for sale.
> http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130351


Thanks, even though there is a real obvious mistake in the sequence of my photos.

For all you fence-sitters, one really nice feature of the Hopey is its resale value. No kidding, I had to bid on three on eBay before I got the first one for my sweetie's bike, and it ended up saving only $30 below retail. The Hopey is one of those do-hickies that if you don't like it, you can get most of your money back (assuming it's in nearly new condition).

That was my mindset when I bought the first one, but I quickly realized the thing works as advertised.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Salami said:


> Do you know if there is a limit of how much it can be cut down? I want to use one on my Sunday with a Boxxer direct mount stem, super short steerer tube.


Well, the post is 85mm long, and I assume it can be cut down pretty close to the wrench flats -- as long as the damper arm has something to engage.

But like I mentioned, Hopey lists a Boxxer version on their website. I don't know what's different about it (I can't tell from the picture), but it would seem that they have you covered.


----------



## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

i think the difference for the boxxer version is a lower profile cup that fits under the headset.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

M1_joel said:


> i think the difference for the boxxer version is a lower profile cup that fits under the headset.


Here's a pic of the Boxxer version Hopey shows on their website.


----------



## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

i also have the "boxxer" base plate. i'll have a closer look when i get home.


----------



## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

Nate,

Do you loose stem height on your steerer after installing the hopey?


----------



## austinb89 (Nov 6, 2004)

a couple kids i ride with said at snowshoe when there was a race and they had a hope damper boothe up. it was basically a treadmill with a bike mounted on it that had a really bumpy floor(to simulate rocks) they turned it on and u sat on the bike. they first had the steering setup without the damper then with it. they said it made everything sooo much smoother and controlled


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

artnshel said:


> Do you loose stem height on your steerer after installing the hopey?


If you're dealing with a pre-cut steerer on an existing installation _and_ you use my method with the 10mm spacer over the top, then yes, you'll lose approximately 8mm.

If, on the other hand, you eliminate the top spacer and work around the the Hopey threads bottoming out on the stem, then stem height will be where you left it (or approximately 2mm higher if you account for the adapter plate installed under the top headset cup).


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

austinb89 said:


> it made everything sooo much smoother and controlled


That's the key. Initially I was concerned it would reduce manuverability to the point I couldn't react as quickly as I'd like. After all, this is the same device I'm using to eliminate my wife's nasty habit of jerking her handlebars eight ways to Sunday when she gets a little intimidated, and is has helped her focus and maintain a straight track and power through stuff.

But in use it only damps handlebar movement, but doesn't lock it out or overly restrict it. It even feels very natural at speed when carving smooth singletrack, and lets me react but not over-control. In fact, it's so easy to work with that my wife, who started out with her Hopey in sort of a "mid" setting (a bit less than one turn shy of maximum), now rides hers near the max setting 100% of the time.


----------



## Dusty Bottoms (Jan 14, 2004)

RuNDmC1087 said:


> I never did understand what that thing actually does....


It ovalizes your headtube for you.


----------



## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

Speedub.Nate said:


> If you're dealing with a pre-cut steerer on an existing installation _and_ you use my method with the 10mm spacer over the top, then yes, you'll lose approximately 8mm.
> 
> If, on the other hand, you eliminate the top spacer and work around the the Hopey threads bottoming out on the stem, then stem height will be where you left it (or approximately 2mm higher if you account for the adapter plate installed under the top headset cup).


Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## CrashTheDOG (Jan 4, 2004)

Nate, very nice write up. I get grief from time to time for running one on my non-DH trail bike, but much like your wife I've come to appreciate the benefits it provides for low speed handling, particularly climbing, more than the high speed decents. It offsets the sloppy steering that is often associated with the slacker HA's of today's 5-6" trail bikes.

Here's a thread authored by tscheezy to help those that have forks with steer tubes that narrow or are plugged at the bottom not allowing for the necessary insertion of a 12mm socket from the underside of the crown. Couple of other things...



Speedub.Nate said:


> The threads at the top of the damper assembly are not supposed to "nest in" or bottom out on the stem.


I've had problems with my Hopey loosening up within the steertube from time to time. I wonder if the problem isn't related to the fact that I'm not using your method to prevent the "nesting?" I really don't want to lower my stem anymore than it is now, but what choice do I have at this point?



Speedub.Nate said:


> I use a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel, but a hacksaw works fine, too.


Another option is the use of a pipe cutting wrench. I like using it because it give me a nice squared end. After cutting it I simply run a file to remove any rough edges.

Again excellent post. Thanks!


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Damn shame all those photos Tscheezy posted along with that thread are missing. Good how-to, in any case. (What's the deal with him posting all the good stuff in the Turner forum though?)

I just got some of the same "not a DH rig" grief from a poster over at HCOR: http://www.hcor.net/postt24057.html . I should just throw the towel in and start riding down hills. Or shut my trap and make it my secret.

If you have to lower your stem 10mm to set the spacer on top, you can always get that height back with a slightly higher rise stem or a taller bar. I know you alrady knew that, but you knew I had to say it when you wrote it. 

Did you happen to use a torque wrench for the final tightening of your 12mm nut? Any chance it's too loose?


----------



## tscheezy (Dec 19, 2003)

Speedub.Nate said:


> What's the deal with him posting all the good stuff in the Turner forum though?


What's the deal with you posting this great info here? Pearls before swine and all that...


----------



## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

Hey I'm curious SpeedDub.Nate. I've got problems with fitness levels, lack off 'balls' to hit stuff, lack of jumping skills, etc. but I've never felt a need to dampen my steering. I've always felt I've had excellent control over my steering (one of my strong points in MTB'ing). 

What is the benefit of a steering damper? Does everyone need one and not realize it? I've never riden a bike with one so I have no idea how it feels. Is it really an epiphany when you ride a bike with a damper? If I had one on my bike would I be like "Wow! I can't belive I've ridden so far without one"?


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Khemical said:


> Does everyone need one and not realize it? I've never riden a bike with one so I have no idea how it feels. Is it really an epiphany when you ride a bike with a damper? If I had one on my bike would I be like "Wow! I can't belive I've ridden so far without one"?


Khem, I wouldn't call it an epiphany. (I wouldn't even go so far as to call my beloved Speedhub in such terms of importance -- nothing can escape the essence of a bicycle: two wheels and a way to propel them. I continue to enjoy riding a hardtail.)

Does everyone need one? No. Can anyone benefit from one? Sure... even a roadie. Should everyone rush out and buy one? That's the all important question -- Hopey isn't handing these out for free, no government grant money or matching funds is available for Hopey purchase, and, lets face it, lots of things are more important in life that a steering damper on a mountain bike -- tires, brake pads, chains and beer, just to name a few.

What I'd really recommend is check out the reviews and the two threads I linked to in my first post. Do your own cost / benefit analysis, realizing that if you absolutely hate the thing, you can resell it on eBay and recoup most of your cash.

So far I'm digging it. I haven't yet decided "I have to have one for my other bike." Some Hopey owners have absolutely expressed that desire. Others haven't. Ya gotta make that call for yourself after riding one for a while.

I doubt this helps answer your question, but the reality is, there is no right answer to your question.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Khem,

Just a follow-up to my previous post. On the last two rides I dialed the Hopey down -- effectively turning it off -- for various segments of the ride. I wanted to note the differences.

Here's a quick and dirty analysis I came up with on today's ride.

Steering, just like front forks and rear suspension, is a form of shock absorber. Hit a rock or a rut the right way, and it deflects the front wheel. Your arms are the damper and spring, if you will.

Add hydraulic damping to the equation and the workload imposed on the arms is significantly reduced. If surprised me how notable the difference was. We adapt to the change, of course -- to the point that after using the Hopey for a while, it doesn't feel like it's doing anything. Or more to the point, turn it off, and _holy crap!_

I'm continuing to notice the most marked improvement on technical climbs. It does a very nice job of filtering out any unwanted front wheel wandering: Point 'n Shoot, as I mentioned in a previous post.

Justifying it? I'll never be able to make that call, not with cost and weight being such personal choices.

But I gotta be honest, I think I'm going to crave one on my hardtail once I get it rolling again.


----------



## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

Thanks for the detailed write-up Nate, it was very informative. I've got a friend that develops a lot of arm pump when riding at ski resorts. I wonder if a damper might help him?


----------



## free-rider_down-hiller (Jun 1, 2005)

how much diffrence does the hopey make


----------



## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

free-rider_down-hiller said:


> how much diffrence does the hopey make


do you really want to know or you posting just to post????....looks like the ladder


----------



## NorKal (Jan 13, 2005)

SHIVER ME TIMBERS said:


> do you really want to know or you posting just to post????....looks like the ladder


A ladder is something you climb or ride your bike on, I believe you meant "Latter"


----------



## vpsaline (May 9, 2006)

Ok well I finally got mine, but I have a few things im worried about.

1. The dampening effect stops working when my stanchions are near the toptube of the frame. Why doesn't the hopey work that far off center?

2. It seems like if when I turn left, it is more immediate and stronger, then when I turn right and it is less immediate and less stiff.

Any tips?

:madman:


----------



## vpsaline (May 9, 2006)




----------



## vpsaline (May 9, 2006)

*NOTE I DID NOT DO THESE TWO STEPS, COULD THIS BE REASON SOMETHING FEELS FUNNY?*

...


----------



## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

M1_joel said:


> NATE ! amazing job. you need to write instruction manuals and your photos are fantastic.
> 
> 
> 
> > man very impressive Nate


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

vpsaline said:


> *NOTE I DID NOT DO THESE TWO STEPS, COULD THIS BE REASON SOMETHING FEELS FUNNY?*


The Hopey only provides damping 22° away from center, in either direction. Face it, if you've got the wheel cocked that far off center at speed, you're in big trouble and need an airbag!!

No idea why damping would feel stronger in one direction. Best to email Hopey and ask that question (please post their reply -- I'm curious).

As for the "immediacy" of damper engagement, you're probably slightly off center. It is difficult to tell from your pictures, but you may need to recenter your dot.

The part about adding the 10mm spacer to the top... well, like I mentioned in my write-up, I broke from the instructions, but did so on the advice of Tim Hopey.

Without the extra spacer, the damper tends to rest ON the steerer tube (instead of inside). The spacers give a few millimeters of room for the damper to move while pre-loading the headset.

Whatever you choose to do, I doubt this step has any bearing on the problem you've observed.


----------



## vpsaline (May 9, 2006)

My first impressions are that there should be a more systematic, fool-proof way of finding perfect center. 

Also the hopey should dampen in a speed sensitive fashion. Riders dont need as much dampening @60kmh as at 5kmh. The spinning of the wheels alone keep the rider on rails at 60kmh. 

Also its not a question of dampening beyond 22 degrees for the fun of it, but to keep the sensation linear throughout the handlebar's rotation.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Yeah, I suppose there is room for improvement -- and everyone is going to have a wish list. However, I'm impressed with how they could cram what they could into such a small, lightweight, uncomplicated package.


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Nate, Thanks for posting these instructions. I referred to them often during my recent Hopey damper installs.

I have some comments regarding the methods used for loading the headset bearings:


Speedub.Nate said:


> Next item is to load the headset bearings. Because the star nut has been removed, use a star nut substitute such as Profile Design's Gap Cap, an FSA's Conix or Compressor, or Azonic's Headlock to tighten the bearings. The Gap Cap and Compressor are usually available at shops that sell carbon road forks.


I've tried both the _Gap Cap_ and the _Compressor_, and IMHO, the _Gap Cap_ is the superior product. I've been unable to get FSA's _compressor_ snug enough to stay in place within the steerer tube so that the top cap could be tightened. That said, if I could get it to hold, I think I'd like the _Compressor_ better since getting the plug tight within the steerer tube and tightening the top cap are two separate operations. When using the _Gap Cap_, tightening the gizmo inside the steerer happens at the same time as loading the headset bearings. After a point, it gets very hard to tighten the _Compressor_'s bolt and it's hard to tell whether it's due to bearing preload or whether the Gap Cap is just getting insanely tight within the steerer.

I have yet to try it, but Azonic's _Headlock_ may be the best solution of the lot. Tightening the _Headlock_'s top cap bolt ought to have a very similar feel to tightening a bolt into a star nut. You can usually tell when you're getting into the right ballpark by the amount of torque required to tighten the topcap bolt. (I don't know what this torque value is precisely, but I've done enough of them now to know it when I feel it.)


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Thanks Nate for the great instructions! It answered almost all my questions. I have heard of some ovalized head tubes. How could that happen? Could I leave the star nut in to load the bearings then take it out before I put the damper in?


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

I suppose, but that seems like a lot of trouble to install and then drill out a star nut, when options like Head Locks and Gap Caps exist.

I'm not sure what to make of the ovalized head tube comment. Pick the headset with the deepest cup insertion available? I dunno. Definitely a question for Tim Hopey.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Speedub.Nate said:


> I suppose, but that seems like a lot of trouble to install and then drill out a star nut, when options like Head Locks and Gap Caps exist.
> 
> I'm not sure what to make of the ovalized head tube comment. Pick the headset with the deepest cup insertion available? I dunno. Definitely a question for Tim Hopey.


My star nut is already there, so I thought when I do get the damper, I would use the star to preload before getting rid of it.

I paid attention to front wheel movement today, and even on the road when pedaling, the front wheel is moving around a lot to the pedal rhythm. So I can only imagine how much an improvement a damper would make. I think it would make as big of a difference as stable platform suspension.

Are you still happy with your damper?


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> My star nut is already there, so I thought when I do get the damper, I would use the star to preload before getting rid of it.


No doubt you can do this, but once the star nut is gone, you'll have to find some other method for adjusting the preload in the future. The Azonic Headlock looks like a good solution. (See my earlier post.)


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Yea, I think I might go with the Hope.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Are you still happy with your damper?


Yeah, I am... although I haven't installed it on my RIP9. The bracket is mounted, but I was playing with different stem lengths and never followed up. I'll be installing it soon.

Also thinking of throwing one on the tandem. That front end gets to rocking on a standing climb.


----------



## f3rg (Aug 29, 2007)

Nice write-up, Nate. I'm wondering if my wife might benefit from one of these...

Any idea what the weight is?


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

f3rg said:


> Any idea what the weight is?


Hopey's site lists the weight at 140 grams. There's a lighter weight version that weighs 125 grams.


----------



## OilcanRacer (Jan 4, 2008)

seems like this might work good at the end of the day when you are getting really tired and need a little bit of extra hmmph.....

other than using it on newbies it seems that you would get weaker and slower with this on all the time?

another toy for the masses


----------



## matthew4president (Dec 18, 2007)

why dont you just learn to steer and save yourself the money and hassle


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

matthew4president said:


> why dont you just learn to steer and save yourself the money and hassle


Eh... yeahbut, you could make the same argument about suspension forks, rear shocks, disc brakes, fat tires, wide handlebars, clipless pedals, gear/derailleurs, etc.

A steering damper is another tool available to riders. In fact, I think I'm going to swap one over to our tandem, because there are a lot of wobbles and weight being thrown around that really make for jerky steering. Could better technique address that? Yeah, probably, and that'll come with time.

In my wife's case, I'm able to fit a short stem, making it easier for her to lift her front end and giving her a little more confidence on downhills. Meanwhile, the Hopey eliminates much of the twitch that would otherwise be associated with that short stem length, which especially helps her on slow climbs.

On my MkIII (the bike in my write-up), the Hopey was a nice addition. On my current bike, a RIP9, I don't miss it much. So it's really bike (and rider) dependent.

But this is getting WAY off topic. The point of this thread was to guide installation. If you want to debate the pros and cons of a Hopey, there are plenty of threads elsewhere (many of which aren't two and a half years stale). If you prefer stale debates, click on those first two links in the first post.

- Nate


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

I am sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have been following these threads for a couple years. I am finally planning on buying my wife a Hopey this month, and I just have one question about the install:

Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer? I guess you could screw up with your drill and damage the Hopey post, but I am lazy and do not really want to buy any of these other methods of tightening down my headset.


----------



## bullcrew (Jan 2, 2005)

Vern Vega said:


> I am sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have been following these threads for a couple years. I am finally planning on buying my wife a Hopey this month, and I just have one question about the install:
> 
> Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer? I guess you could screw up with your drill and damage the Hopey post, but I am lazy and do not really want to buy any of these other methods of tightening down my headset.


No! WHen you assemble it there is a 12mm nut that has to be reached through the bottom of the steer tube. It pushes out 3 flanges that dig into the steer tube, the there is a nut ontop ot the damper that you screw down that pulls everything tight!

Its stupid simple!!!! She'll love it.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

asdfg


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Vern Vega said:


> Couldn't you leave the star nut in intially to set the preload and tighten the stem, and then just remove the star nut once you are ready to stick the cylinder inside the steerer?


Yes, absolutely.

The other devices are good to have on hand. There's a good chance you'll want to recenter or swap the stem, or reinstall the Hopey for some reason. For less than $20, it's money well invested.

But for the first go-around, you can compress the headset with the star nut, tighten the stem, remove the star nut, and go on from there.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Thanks, that's a great point re: future adjustments. Probably a good enough argument to convince me to do it the right way the first time!


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Vern Vega said:


> For the install posted by Speedub.Nate above, he removes the star nut, and then he has to use some other means of securing the headset to preload the headset bearings before installing the cylinder. I was just wondering if I could leave the star nut in to do the preload, and then remove the star nut just before dropping in the cylinder?? Wouldn't be the cleanest way to do things, but as stated I am lazy.......and cheap.


Once installed, you can use that really large (35mm) nut on the Hopey Damper to set the headset preload. So another way to do it is to put the stem on as tightly as you can without a star nut or star nut replacement. Then, install the damper per Nate's instructions. Once that's done, loosen the stem and use the 35mm nut to set the headset preload. Once you're happy with it, tighten the stem and then tighten that 35mm nut a bit more.

The one problem with this approach is that with the damper installed, it's difficult (due to the damper's action) to feel how tight you have the bearings by turning the handlebars back and forth. If there are other drawbacks with this approach, I'm sure that someone will mention them...


----------



## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

Speedub.Nate, thanks a bunch for the great write-up. Great product but the instructions are not perfect, this really helped solve my install issues. Tim Hopey should post it on his own site.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Okay, I got the wife's Hopey installed last night....Thanks Speedub.Nate for the great write up, and the tip on the homemade headeset press. Everything went smoothly until I had to tighten the 12 mm hex nut: The extension rod for my socket wrench was barely long to reach up the stem, an then my wrench range was limited by the down tube. I got through it eventually, though.

Anyway, this is not a complaint so much as a question...seems there is a lot more play in the steering damper at the center position than I expected. The stem can turn 1 or 2 degrees in either diretion before the dampening kicks in. Is this normal? I kind of expected it to hold the stem perfectly straight, although I guess I can see where a little play might be desirable.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Vern Vega said:


> ...seems there is a lot more play in the steering damper at the center position than I expected. The stem can turn 1 or 2 degrees in either diretion before the dampening kicks in. Is this normal?


That's about how mine both work. I don't know if it's intentional, i.e. designed that way, as opposed to acceptable slop, but whatever the case, I think it's normal.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Okay, cool. I guess I didn't screw anything up, and I can go ahead and leave postive feedback for my Ebay seller.  

My wife is still a little unsure how useful it is, but she's excited about the possibilities.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Vern Vega said:


> My wife is still a little unsure how useful it is, but she's excited about the possibilities.


My wife is the same. She questioned the Hopey and thought it was an insult that I installed it on her bike. But after she rode with it for a while, I turned if off (lowest damping setting), and she couldn't help but to notice the difference.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Just wante dot update my wife's experience with her Hopey steering damper. In a nutshell, she loves, and cannot imagine ever riding without it.

For some background, my wife is 5' 3", and barely weighs 100 pounds. She has been riding for over 7 years, and this will be her 4th year of racing. She has great balance and decent technical skills, but she is a very slow descender. I have often noticed that she looks like she is really fighting her handlebar through the technical stuff, and sometimes when I follow her on a long forest service road climb her tire marks look like I'm following a snake. As she gets tired she tends to pull on the bar with every pedal stroke.

She has had instruction from some of the best coaches in the country, and yet she still has these problems.

So, I thought the damer would help her out. At first she just thought it made steering feel tight, and didn't really understand what it was doing for her. Every week, I tightened it down a bit more without her noticing. I immediately noticed her downhill speed increasing. She is still slow, but she is gaining confidence. We just finished the Snake Creek Time Trial in Dalton, GA, and she said she was flying over the rocks like never before -- but instead of crediting the steering damper she just assumed her skills had magically increased. 

On Sunday we were out at one of our favorite trails, and I decided to turn off the damper. I waited until we crossed a rock garden. Then we stopped and I turned off the damper and asked her to ride the garden again. She barely went 30 yards before she lost her balance and started twisting the handlebar around and had to stop. She wouldn't even try the rocks and insisted on getting the damper back on. Now she understands why her skill was improving.

Granted, this was not a fair test. I am sure if she rode around for a few minutes without the damper she would remember how to maintain control of the bar without overcompensating, but it was pretty funny to watch. However, all she neede was that brief encounter to realize what the damper was doing for her and (finally) thank me for getting it.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

Vern Vega said:


> Just wante dot update my wife's experience with her Hopey steering damper. In a nutshell, she loves, and cannot imagine ever riding without it.


Cool beans. I love witnessing this kind of progress (that is to say, with my wife... I'm sure the same holds true with you).

Even more impressive this past summer was getting my wife on 29" wheels (she's 5'5"). Two areas of rapid, vast improvement were steep climbs, and downhill confidence -- even more so than when we added the Hopey.

Anyhow, "crutch" or not, little tools like the Hopey can make a difference.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Resurrecting this thread yet again....

I posted this question in the Specialized forum, but I figured why not reach out to the guys who have personal knowledge?

We are considering getting my wife a Specialized Era FSR Expert Carbon (her race team has a sponsorship deal). The LBS does not have one in stock, so I cannot see what the headset is like. Specialized describes it as "1-1/8" Threadless, Campy style upper and lower cartridge bearing". I am ignorant, and do not really know what that means....do I need to purchase a different type of bracket? (she currently uses a standard 1-1/8" threadless King headset).


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Vern Vega said:


> I posted this question in the Specialized forum, but I figured why not reach out to the guys who have personal knowledge?
> 
> We are considering getting my wife a Specialized Era FSR Expert Carbon (her race team has a sponsorship deal). The LBS does not have one in stock, so I cannot see what the headset is like. Specialized describes it as "1-1/8" Threadless, Campy style upper and lower cartridge bearing". I am ignorant, and do not really know what that means....do I need to purchase a different type of bracket? (she currently uses a standard 1-1/8" threadless King headset).


After reading the Park Tool description of the Campagnolo Hiddenset, it seems to me that you won't be able to use a Hopey damper with that headset. The description says:

_The bearings cone races do not press into the frame. The frame has a specially machined headtube to accept the bearings._​
This suggests to me that there's no headset cup to which you'll be able to attach the Hopey Damper's bracket.


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

I got an email from Tim at Hopey, and he claims the zero stack bracket will work, although one might need to use the replacement bearing cup they send with the bracket.

In the meantime, we decided against the Specialized bike, but its good to know that in theory this will work.


----------



## Speedub.Nate (Dec 31, 2003)

If Kevin's description is correct, then Tim is wrong and the Hopey will not work. I've used the Hopey on two Zero Stack bikes, and they do indeed require press-in headset cups to clamp to.

If the bearing seats are machined or otherwise integrated into the head tube (non-removable), there will be nothing for the Hopey bracket to attach to, short of drilling a hole in your bike's top tube.


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Vern Vega said:


> In the meantime, we decided against the Specialized bike, but its good to know that in theory this will work.


I still have my doubts.

If by "1-1/8" Threadless, Campy style upper and lower cartridge bearing", Specialized is referring to the Campagnolo Hiddenset, then there doesn't appear to be any bearing cups to which to attach the bracket. Look at the picture below from the Park Tool web site. No headset cups.










If Specialized is referring to some other system with headset cups, then it'll work.

It may also be the case that Hopey has machined a special cup which'll fit that frame. In that case, you'd presumably use a bearing different than the one intended for use with that frame.

In any case, if you end up considering that Specialized bike again, and want to use a Hopey damper with it, I think some more investigation is in order. If you do end up going that route, let us know what happens...


----------



## Vern Vega (Aug 10, 2006)

Tim said Specialized is using a zero stack headset with a removable cup. I haven't seen one in person, so I don't know.


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Vern Vega said:


> Tim said Specialized is using a zero stack headset with a removable cup. I haven't seen one in person, so I don't know.


According to the Specialized web site, the Era FSR Comp and Era FSR Expert uses 10mm insertion alloy cups. The carbon versions of the Era use Campy style bearings, etc. Could it be that Tim was looking at the specs for the non-carbon frames?

FWIW, my wife's (carbon fiber) Ibis Mojo has the headset cups integrated into the head tube. I couldn't figure a way to use the Hopey damper with that frame either.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

What if I have a carbon fork that has no hole in the bottom?


----------



## womble (Sep 8, 2006)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> What if I have a carbon fork that has no hole in the bottom?


Then you're kind of hosed because you really do need to be able to tighten that nut at the bottom of the damper unit.


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

*Hopey Damper play*

Sorry to re-resurrect the thread. Great thread by the way, on topic, informative, polite. :thumbsup:

I just bought a used hopey damper, which I have not yet installed, but I have some concerns about it's undamped play. The upper control arm/bracket (i.e. the piece of aluminum that sticks of the top of the damper and engages the post you cut to length) has slop/play it in.

I've heard some CENTER play is designed in to the unit, however the play in my unit exists in all positions because the source of this play is not from inside the damper's "guts." Rather the source of the play is from where the aluminum upper control arm engages the steel shaft of the damper. When you look closely at the unit from the side and wiggle the control arm back and forth, you can see the control arm moving while the damper's steel shaft remains still. It's like when you have a socket on a nut and the socket is just a little to big. Given that that control arm is aluminum and the damper shaft is steel and the engagement between the two is a simple hex pattern, I'm thinking it's only a matter of time before the engagement hole of the control arm "rounds out" and develops more and more slop.
Or, is this somehow part of the design? 
I bought the unit from someone who had it serviced by Hopey, and then never reinstalled it. So it hasn't been used since Hopey rebuilt/served it, so Hopey must have found the slop/play acceptable.

Anyone have similar experience with their dampers? Thoughts? Thanks guys!


----------



## PapaSmurf99 (Sep 13, 2010)

Could someone please tell me what hopey damper actually does?


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

First some terminology. "Springs" resist position: You compress a spring and hold it, it pushes back until it gets into it's "unsprung" position. 
"Dampers" resist motion: A damper doesn't care where it is, it just don't want to move from one spot to another.

Shocks (and suspension forks) have a spring and damper: they resist position and motion.

The Hopey steering damper is just a damper (no spring). It resists the motion of turning your handle bars. The faster your handles try to turn the more resistence the damper provides.

Steering dampers are used on big lifted trucks to prevent the front wheels from wobbling at high speeds. Steering dampers are used on MX because they have a big heavy front wheel (compared to a mtb) that gets knocked around with massive amount of energy and a humans arms aren't strong enough to absorb, so the damper absorbs.
On mounting biking, it helps in a different way, it help by preventing over correction. The mbt front wheel is so light, it's easy to move (both from rocks hitting it, and from the human's input). Often times when we're trying to balance and steer and get through rocky stuff or keep a straight line, we turn our handlebars TOO much. The damper helps reduce excessive front wheel steering.



PapaSmurf99 said:


> Could someone please tell me what hopey damper actually does?


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

Smurf,

I think it is for people who have never lifted a weight in their life and have a hard time keeping their handle bars straight. 
A better investment might be a gym membership. 

Eric


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

Eric, comments like that are the cancer of forums. Keep it to yourself. You are wrong and uneducated.



rugbyred said:


> Smurf,
> 
> I think it is for people who have never lifted a weight in their life and have a hard time keeping their handle bars straight.
> A better investment might be a gym membership.
> ...


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

*Hopey Damper zero-stack extra deep cup*

I'm trying to install my damper and have run into a problem at step #1.

My bike has a 44mm/semi-integrated/zero-stack headset so I bought Hopey's zero-stack base bracket w/ "extra deep cup." The extra deep cup is 2mm deeper so that that 2mm bracket doesn't change the insertion depth of the upper cup into the head tube. Sounds great, right? Well, it looks like the inside depth of the Hopey upper replacement cup is too shallow! :madman:

At least too shallow for an FSA Orbit Z headset, that is unless I'm not understanding something.
As shown in the attached pictures, you can see that the orange inner sleeve insert for the upper bearing is supposed to sit level with the top edge of the bearing cup. This way the top cap can seal the bearing. However, with the extra deep cup, the bearing doesn't seat as deep and so the orange inner sleeve insert sits above the bearing cup, thus not allowing the top cap thingy to make a seal.

Has anyone else noticed this? Maybe there's another headset with shallower bearings that fit the Hopey extra deep cup? Maybe for some reason you don't need the orange inner sleeve insert when using the damper?

Thanks guys.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

DirtyMartini said:


> Eric, comments like that are the cancer of forums. Keep it to yourself. You are wrong and uneducated.


+100% on ^. I have 40 years of experience on two wheels. And when I saw 40 years, I mean almost every day, along with hours per day on dirt bikes and mountain bikes. I have ridden a bike with a Hopey damper. A steering damper will make *anyone* a better rider on dirt bikes or mountain bikes. I just wish I could put one on my carbon rigid bike. The carbon fork doesn't have a hole in the bottom of the steerer tube.


----------



## bullcrew (Jan 2, 2005)

rugbyred said:


> Smurf,
> 
> I think it is for people who have never lifted a weight in their life and have a hard time keeping their handle bars straight.
> A better investment might be a gym membership.
> ...


yeah lol im 235 lbs and used to spend 4 hours a day in the gym lifting weights. i use one for certain rides.

compound fractured my wrist and 160+ sparrow fractures (drunk driver hit me at 60) wont go into the fact i was a bag of smashd bones and blood but the damper keeps the wrist from locking up and helps when doing multiple runs at tunnel and the bigger resorts.
after running one because of this reason id use one anywase. when my buddies arms are smoked i have less arm pump and fatigue. going into the next day of riding my wrists arent jacked.
you can dial it off and use as desired which is what i do when i dont need it and it helps when climbing especially with big bikes.

love mine.


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

bullcrew said:


> yeah lol im 235 lbs and used to spend 4 hours a day in the gym lifting weights. i use one for certain rides.
> 
> compound fractured my wrist and 160+ sparrow fractures (drunk driver hit me at 60) wont go into the fact i was a bag of smashd bones and blood but the damper keeps the wrist from locking up and helps when doing multiple runs at tunnel and the bigger resorts.
> after running one because of this reason id use one anywase. when my buddies arms are smoked i have less arm pump and fatigue. going into the next day of riding my wrists arent jacked.
> ...


----------



## Archi-Magus (Feb 22, 2010)

rugbyred said:


> Smurf,
> 
> I think it is for people who have never lifted a weight in their life and have a hard time keeping their handle bars straight.
> A better investment might be a gym membership.
> ...


Try riding moto with and without a damper and your attitude will change. A steering damper is an excellent piece of technology. It's even nice on sport bikes.


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

Archi-Magus said:


> Try riding moto with and without a damper and your attitude will change. A steering damper is an excellent piece of technology. It's even nice on sport bikes.


i don't think anyone disagrees that it is necessary on a moto. this forum, however, is not for 700lb motorized vehicles. relevance to mtb use is subjective. to some it is as useful as bar ends and to others, well, it's as useful as bar ends.


----------



## PapaSmurf99 (Sep 13, 2010)

So basically it just adds resistance to you handlebars so that its harder to turn, which keeps you stable at higher speeds? Seems legit.


----------



## [email protected] (Dec 29, 2003)

My experience with steering dampers is both good and bad. However I've only used them on MX bikes in off-road conditions. At higher speeds or in faster rocky situations they are very good. At speed they allow you to relax more and focus on the terrain rather than on controlling the bike. In rocks they keep the bike going straighter and where you point it. However, in loose or slippery conditions I don't like them. They actually get in the way of controlling a bike in slippery mud or snow. A steeering damper actually causes a bike to scissor at the head tube instead of the front wheel moving and finding traction or correcting for slipper conditions. This may be why you don't see World Cup racers using them. Instantly reacting to slipper roots and loose conditions is so important at that level.


----------



## NWS (Jun 30, 2010)

DirtyMartini said:


> Eric, comments like that are the cancer of forums. Keep it to yourself. You are wrong and uneducated.


Bravo.


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

The Hopey damper will add resistance as you turn the bars away from center, but does not damp as you return to center.

If by "higher speeds" you mean faster handlebar turning speeds, then yes.

If by "high speeds" you mean going down the hill faster, then yes also, but it will also ad stability when going down the hill slower (or going slowly across a skinny or through a rock garden etc).

Also, turning your front wheel suddenly, quickly tends to initiate a front wheel slid (lose of traction) which is not good. The faster you're going the less margin of error you have available for controlling the front wheel, and once you start to slid you start to lose control. The damper will help prevent suddenly turning the front wheel too much too fast, and in turn prevent you from losing traction at higher speeds. At lower speed, it's not a matter of losing traction as much as keeping a straighter line by keeping a straighter front wheel.



PapaSmurf99 said:


> So basically it just adds resistance to you handlebars so that its harder to turn, which keeps you stable at higher speeds? Seems legit.


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

That makes a lot of sense. If you're going that fast, and are that good at controling the front wheel, I could see a damper getting in the way.



[email protected] said:


> My experience with steering dampers is both good and bad. However I've only used them on MX bikes in off-road conditions. At higher speeds or in faster rocky situations they are very good. At speed they allow you to relax more and focus on the terrain rather than on controlling the bike. In rocks they keep the bike going straighter and where you point it. However, in loose or slippery conditions I don't like them. They actually get in the way of controlling a bike in slippery mud or snow. A steeering damper actually causes a bike to scissor at the head tube instead of the front wheel moving and finding traction or correcting for slipper conditions. This may be why you don't see World Cup racers using them. Instantly reacting to slipper roots and loose conditions is so important at that level.


----------



## rugbyred (Aug 31, 2006)

dirtymartini,
I may be wrong, but I am definitely not uneducated. I admit that I choose my words incorrectly. I have been in a sour mood as of late (just found out I going under the knife).
As for you bullcrew, very impressed with your ability to recover from something as traumatic as you did. My hat goes off to you.
What were you training for that you spent four hours a day in the gym? I have found that any longer than 90min in the gym and I can not get out of there fast enough. My workouts are tailored to that as well.
Once again, my apologies for being a grouch.

Eric


----------



## DirtyMartini (Aug 5, 2010)

Apology accepted. That was very decent of you. 
For what it's worth, I should have said "uneducated on this matter." I'm sorry.
Good luck under the knife.



rugbyred said:


> dirtymartini,
> I may be wrong, but I am definitely not uneducated. I admit that I choose my words incorrectly. I have been in a sour mood as of late (just found out I going under the knife).
> As for you bullcrew, very impressed with your ability to recover from something as traumatic as you did. My hat goes off to you.
> What were you training for that you spent four hours a day in the gym? I have found that any longer than 90min in the gym and I can not get out of there fast enough. My workouts are tailored to that as well.
> ...


----------



## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

I tried one immediately took it off hinders sensitivity and feedback at the experienced rider level and found it to be actually dangerous in gotta correct now situations in extreme tech sections,a novice might find them use full to give a sense of stability and to build confidence.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

techfersure said:


> found it to be actually dangerous


That's a new one.


----------



## bullcrew (Jan 2, 2005)

rugbyred said:


> dirtymartini,
> I may be wrong, but I am definitely not uneducated. I admit that I choose my words incorrectly. I have been in a sour mood as of late (just found out I going under the knife).
> As for you bullcrew, very impressed with your ability to recover from something as traumatic as you did. My hat goes off to you.
> What were you training for that you spent four hours a day in the gym? I have found that any longer than 90min in the gym and I can not get out of there fast enough. My workouts are tailored to that as well.
> ...


Was into body building and mass then cardio cutting ontop of boxxing and fighting. usually split into 2 2hour sessions.


----------



## 1962 (Feb 23, 2008)

*hopey still in biz ?*

so is hopey still around ? because i have one thats been in the box for awhile and i need to sell it but it needs to be sent back to hopey to be recentered. what do you guys think it's worth in this condition ? ...ralph


----------



## tartosuc (May 18, 2006)

techfersure said:


> *I tried one immediately took it off* hinders sensitivity and feedback at the experienced rider level and found it to be actually dangerous in gotta correct now situations in extreme tech sections,a novice might find them use full to give a sense of stability and to build confidence.


you did not use it long enough.
i'd say it takes 1 or 2 days to get used to it after that you are hooked.
I had one for a season, and loved it,i'm an experience rider.


----------



## big_slacker (Feb 16, 2004)

saturnine said:


> i don't think anyone disagrees that it is necessary on a moto. this forum, however, is not for 700lb motorized vehicles. relevance to mtb use is subjective. to some it is as useful as bar ends and to others, well, it's as useful as bar ends.


Sportbikes are generally in the 400 lb range and MX less. Modern DH bikes are more and more similar to dirt bikes and I think the relevance is certainly there when you reach higher speeds through rough stuff. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

1962 said:


> so is hopey still around ? because i have one thats been in the box for awhile and i need to sell it but it needs to be sent back to hopey to be recentered. what do you guys think it's worth in this condition ? ...ralph


Google is your friend!


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

big_slacker said:


> Sportbikes are generally in the 400 lb range and MX less. Modern DH bikes are more and more similar to dirt bikes and I think the relevance is certainly there when you reach higher speeds through rough stuff. :thumbsup:


the .000001% market share is enough, i suppose.


----------



## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Can you adjust the amount of damping on these things? 

If not, well thats just silly, if so, then you should be able to adjust the damping to your liking/conditions.


----------



## saturnine (Mar 28, 2007)

yeah, there's a dial on top. you can turn it off entirely, as well.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

How's the damper holding up Nate?


----------



## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Old thread revision, looking for long term use reports. Are any of the original posters to this page still using their Hopey? If not, why? How has it held up?


----------



## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

Captain Cobb said:


> Old thread revision, looking for long term use reports. Are any of the original posters to this page still using their Hopey? If not, why? How has it held up?


I'm still using one of three that I had installed on our bikes a number of years ago. The two that are no longer in use were sold along with the bikes upon which they were installed and, so far as I know, they're still in use.

The only issue I've had with the one on my bike was that the bottom portion of it came loose from the steerer tube one time. It was easy to fix; it's likely that I didn't tighten it adequately to begin with. (On that particular fork, it's difficult to access the tightening nut.)

My wife was using one of the dampers. I built her a new bike which used a headset that wasn't compatible with the Hopey damper. When she started riding her new bike, she immediately noticed and missed the damper. (She's adapted though.)


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Back from the dead!


----------



## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

KevinB said:


> I'm still using one of three that I had installed on our bikes a number of years ago. The two that are no longer in use were sold along with the bikes upon which they were installed and, so far as I know, they're still in use.
> 
> The only issue I've had with the one on my bike was that the bottom portion of it came loose from the steerer tube one time. It was easy to fix; it's likely that I didn't tighten it adequately to begin with. (On that particular fork, it's difficult to access the tightening nut.)
> 
> My wife was using one of the dampers. I built her a new bike which used a headset that wasn't compatible with the Hopey damper. When she started riding her new bike, she immediately noticed and missed the damper. (She's adapted though.)


Thanks for the follow up, I've been debating one for a few years and haven't pulled the trigger yet. But I'm in the process of building a new bike, and the time to consider one is now.


----------



## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Captain Cobb said:


> Old thread revision, looking for long term use reports. Are any of the original posters to this page still using their Hopey? If not, why? How has it held up?


I ride a Hopey and have for about 8 years now. Amazing little unit.

The caveat? Only on snow, where the damper helps to limit front wheel drift and wander.

I've tried to like them on dirt, but have never been able to adapt. They take control of the front of the bike, so now you're fighting the bike *and* the damper. Always ended up just turning it off for dirt, which is plenty easy to do.


----------



## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

mikesee said:


> I ride a Hopey and have for about 8 years now. Amazing little unit.
> 
> The caveat? Only on snow, where the damper helps to limit front wheel drift and wander.
> 
> I've tried to like them on dirt, but have never been able to adapt. They take control of the front of the bike, so now you're fighting the bike *and* the damper. Always ended up just turning it off for dirt, which is plenty easy to do.


Thanks for the report Mike, I have a couple of friends that run a Hopey and swear by them, but I wanted to get an expanded opinion about these little units.


----------



## karpiel (Aug 27, 2010)

Hey Tim

Please reply to me regarding tbe two dampers I sent back to you, please !

Thank you

Richard Hayter
Ireland


----------

