# In the Market for a New Welding Hood



## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

What is everyone using, and why? 
Should I go Auto-Darkening? Battery operated or Rechargeable?
Either way I go I'll be getting a BIG window.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

I use the Huntsman hoods that are "For brazing only". They are cut down so they are a little lighter than the full coverage versions. They can be kind of hard to find but I'm pretty sure they still make them. I've got one of the full coverage hoods that I keep a darker lens in for doing heavier work though. 

My 2 cents on auto darkening hoods. I've never used one that I could tolerate. The clarity on every one I've used is 2nd rate and the tint isn't consistent through the entire viewing field. I used one while I was learning how to weld but after I melted the second one I gave up and went back to a glass filter plate.


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## RCP FAB (Jun 15, 2011)

Jackson big window with a gold lens. One of the lightest helmets you can get and mine was $30 and $10 for the gold lens.

Auto darkening helmets are a complete waste of money imo.


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## smdubovsky (Apr 27, 2007)

The really cheap autodarks are usually junk but I hear the ones just off the bottom of the line are 'ok' for occasional welders. More sensors = better. Battery + solar assist = better. Shade 3 in clear state = better.

I had a jackson htls I was happy with until it just plain started dying of old age (breath condensation eventually started corroding the battery contacts - but it already lived a hard life as I had bought it used.) Upgraded to a miller digital elite a couple yrs back so it would detect the really low inverter arc better. GREAT helmet. I weld more roll cage type stuff than I do bikes and the X-mode rocks when crap is in your way or your welding 'by braile' on the backside of something. No clarity or consistency problems w/ either. Both go to ~3 when clear. Cheap ones sometimes only go to ~5.


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## ROSKO (Oct 11, 2009)

A helmet is a tool like any other and each style has it's place. I keep both handy. For what it's worth auto-darkening helmets have improved by leaps and bounds in recent years and a decent one will no longer cost you an arm and a leg. I use a Jackson NexGen which has a relatively large screen and multiple sensors- you still have to be wary of sensor location when welding. For complex/ difficult positions or fixturing it really does help to be able to keep the helmet down while repositioning etc. Just my $.02


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## DPowell (Jul 5, 2011)

Check out the weldingtipsandtricks web site. He has good things to say about the auto darkening hood from Northern Tools and its only about $50.00.


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## Stevoo (Mar 9, 2007)

I have a Miller auto darkening hood. Use it for TIG. Once you try it I bet you won't go back. I held off getting one because of price and had always used traditional hoods. Still use a regular Huntsman that I have had forever for stick welding and other big welding jobs.

Tried a cheapo auto darkening hood and it was terrible. The diff between a quality hood and a cheapo is quite evident.

The clairity on the Miller auto darkening hood is really, really good. Added a magnifying inner lens which I really like. Being able to see the puddle well is a big part of TIG welding for me.


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## Kavik (Apr 13, 2007)

smdubovsky said:


> The really cheap autodarks are usually junk but I hear the ones just off the bottom of the line are 'ok' for occasional welders. More sensors = better. Battery + solar assist = better. Shade 3 in clear state = better.
> 
> I had a jackson htls I was happy with until it just plain started dying of old age (breath condensation eventually started corroding the battery contacts - but it already lived a hard life as I had bought it used.) Upgraded to a miller digital elite a couple yrs back so it would detect the really low inverter arc better. GREAT helmet. I weld more roll cage type stuff than I do bikes and the X-mode rocks when crap is in your way or your welding 'by braile' on the backside of something. No clarity or consistency problems w/ either. Both go to ~3 when clear. Cheap ones sometimes only go to ~5.


x2
I used a Huntsman for 15 years and switched to the same Miller hood. However, the digital Elite is spendy.


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## Rody (Sep 10, 2005)

Jeremy,

Me likey for 17 years...

Huntsman fiber helmet with Big window

WeldingDepot -- Huntsman® 451P Welding Helmet 4-1/2" x 5-1/4" Fixed Front Vulcanized Fiber

and add this for clarity...

golden lens for great visualization

WeldingDepot -- Lens 4-1/2" x 5-1/4" GOLDEN VIEW Gold Polycarbonate Shade 8 - 12

rody


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## edoz (Jan 16, 2004)

Rody said:


> Jeremy,
> 
> Me likey for 17 years...
> 
> ...


That's exactly what I have (with extensive cutdown), and I rarely miss my autodark.


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## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

DPowell said:


> the auto darkening hood from Northern Tools and its only about $50.00.


I think I'll pass on anything from NTool or Harbor Freight. I'll swing into NTool and check one out, but I doubt I'll bite.



Rody said:


> weldingdepot.com


Most helpful. Thanks!


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## Glen1978 (Aug 4, 2011)

SpeedGlas or GTFO! Ive had them all over the years welding for a living. Had an older friend that would only wear the old school pipeliner helmets until his brother brought him and extra Speedglas that he had.....now thats the only thing he uses. I bought a big Miller MIG and gota free Miller auto lens with it and it was OK at best....finally crapped out and I bought a SpeedGlas 9002X. Ive had it for around 5 years now and only replaced the lenses in it a couple times.


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*What timing!*

My crappy AD helmet started flashing at me yesterday... perfect time to get something new, great advice Rody! Many thanks!

_Walt



Rody said:


> Jeremy,
> 
> Me likey for 17 years...
> 
> ...


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## A. Spence (Sep 25, 2009)

*Good tip, thanks.*

Rody,

can you plug a cheater lens into that Huntsman helmet?

Right now I use one of the basic Jackson helmets with the smaller window. It's ok. I like the headgear, but I've been wondering if a larger viewing window would be better. Seems to me like it would have to be.

Also, that Huntsman looks nice and compact. The Jackson I'm using is bulkier and hard to get into tight spaces.

Lastly, I've tried the Horror Fright autodark helmet that others have mentioned. 
In general it gets good reviews but I think that few are using it for low amperage welding of thinwall tubing. 
I got flashed like crazy welding even 035 cro mo. Bad headache, no fun. I'll probably give it away to someone for mig welding which I hear it works well for.

Alistair.



Rody said:


> Jeremy,
> 
> Me likey for 17 years...
> 
> ...


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

*Slight digression...*

What shade do y'all use for low-amperage (ie bike stuff at <100 amps) TIG work? I've used my craptacular/now broken AD helmet most of my welding "career" so I'm not really sure what I should be looking for. 10? Higher? Lower? I want my eyes to be happy, but I like to see what I'm doing, too...

So, quick poll - who uses what?

-Walt


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## febikes (Jan 28, 2011)

I have been using speedglas with shade level 9 and it works well.


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## Rody (Sep 10, 2005)

Allistair,

Never tried to put a mag lens in it, so I cannot answer that question definitively. I've been happy buying the 6 dollar 3 pack of granny reading glasses at the five and dime, so have not felt the need 

cheers,

rody


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## edoz (Jan 16, 2004)

A. Spence said:


> Rody,
> 
> can you plug a cheater lens into that Huntsman helmet?
> 
> Alistair.


I've seen cheater lens setups for that hood. Check your local welding supply, they should be able to hook you up.


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## edoz (Jan 16, 2004)

Walt said:


> What shade do y'all use for low-amperage (ie bike stuff at <100 amps) TIG work? I've used my craptacular/now broken AD helmet most of my welding "career" so I'm not really sure what I should be looking for. 10? Higher? Lower? I want my eyes to be happy, but I like to see what I'm doing, too...
> 
> So, quick poll - who uses what?
> 
> -Walt


I use a gold shade 10 and it works pretty well as far down as I need to go. I usually get down to 25-30 amps on stainless for some projects, but I also need to be able to run 250 amps on aluminum without switching hoods.
If I ran low amp dc all the time I'd probably go to a 9.


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## A. Spence (Sep 25, 2009)

Rody, Eric,

thanks. I'll check it out and see what the LWS says. 

Using some cheapo reading glasses is a good idea too. My eyesight is actually good but I'm still a beginner when it comes to welding. I find that the cheater lens give me a better chance of not screwing up. Maybe when I get some more experience I'll find that it's not necessary anymore.

I've never tried a quality AD helmet, only a crappy one. I had been under the impression that it was all AD helmets these days but the more I looked into things in the bike building world, I found that many experienced builders are using standard helmets.

In my research I came across two tips that really helped me in being able to see the puddle more clearly.

1) A post by Don at Anvil recommending a lighter shade filter for welding thinwall tubing. I've gone to a no.9 and it's helped a lot.
2) A post by Drew at Engin recommending a gold lens filter (which several have already mentioned here).

Using this combination, a No.9 gold lens, I find the clarity of the weld puddle to be quite amazing.

Alistair.


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## Crispy01 (May 4, 2011)

+1 to the miller elite, so light and easy to change shades and good positioning of the sensors.

Low amperage it is good to be able to change the shades from a 12-13 for aluminium to 10-11 for stainless and 8-9-10 for chromolly.


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## j-ro (Feb 21, 2009)

I use 9 in my auto hood for thinwall tig and max it out at 12 for Al.
I have a big screen jackson non auto with a 9 That I use for bikes as well, the brand of glass lenses that my lws carries seems to run a little dark- I could probabally run an 8.


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## Cracked Headtube (Apr 16, 2006)

Well, thanks to all for sharing their preferences. I couldn't wait for mail-order and my LWS has slim pickins. So I ended up with an inexpensive Jackson non-auto with a big window. I'll be using it for the first time tonight!


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

I used a Miller Elite AD until this year when I went back to a gold 9 shade. The gold shade has MUCH better color, is more crisp and I never get flashed when I'm in a weird position. I'd get flashed a few times per frame when the sensors didn't get a good blast of UV (or whatever it is that makes them work) and have to take five mins or so to wait for the white spots to subside. At first, I missed the ability to reposition quickly, but I quickly developed a method to move around without having to lift the hood.


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## RCP FAB (Jun 15, 2011)

I never really gave lens shade a thought. In the fab shops I worked at I always ran a gold 11, when I picked up my new jackson helmet I grabbed a 10, because that was all they had.

Most of the charts I found online say, for tig, less than 150amps to use a minimum of an 8. Do you notice a difference with a lighter shade? I would keep my 10 for aluminum or heavy steel work, but I can count the number of times in the past 6 months that I had my welder above 80amps on one hand.

Thanks
Ryan


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

RCP FAB said:


> Do you notice a difference with a lighter shade? I would keep my 10 for aluminum or heavy steel work, but I can count the number of times in the past 6 months that I had my welder above 80amps on one hand.
> 
> Thanks
> Ryan


Most definitely.


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## RCP FAB (Jun 15, 2011)

I'm going to try out an 8 tomorrow, my LWS doesn't stock odd numbers, if its not enough I will order a 9.

Thanks


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## DEFCON4130 (Dec 19, 2009)

I use a gold passive shade 11.. sometimes 10 when I have to lean far from the tourch.

At work we keep the lights dim... sounds crazy but your eyes adjust and you can run a darker lens. Give it a try.. just give yourself 10min or so in low light before you start.


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