# This is embarrassing (overtightened spokes)



## z1 zonly (Oct 5, 2006)

Well, some note-playing on the spokes revealed that many were very loose, so I went to work tightening with a handy Specialized multitool. My approach (an obviously uneducated one) was that each spoke should make an identical sound when plucked. So I tightened accordingly.

All went well, except that the spoke wrench almost began rounding on the spokes! That was my first sign of overtightening. I called it quits and put a new tube on a flat tire and hit the trail with a buddy. The first thing I noticed is my front wheel absolutely WOBBLING horribly.

So, is this a predicament that I can pull myself out of, or a job for the LBS? If it's the former, HOW?


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## kylejohn4543 (Jun 24, 2006)

As you tighten, if you don't loosen others along with it, the tension will be all thrown off, and the wheel thrown out of "true". You can fix it yourself, but it would be easier for the LBS. Parktool.com has some instructions on truing a wheel.


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## f0ggy (Jul 5, 2006)

learn from your lbs, books help but hands on helps better


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## Psycho Mike (Apr 2, 2006)

With a lot of careful work, I was able to get a decent true back into a wheel I mashed pretty good on a curb. It took a long time and was quite frustrating sometimes...

I'd say let the LBS do it as they have all the right tools and experience, but try to learn from them.


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## Tarekith (Mar 9, 2005)

Wheel tensioning is the only thing i take my bike to the LBS for these days. It's worth the money to have people with experience do it. I don't always have the patience, and it's easy to make it worse.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Feb 3, 2004)

Tightening your spokes without checking true can definitely lead to problems as you found out; if you had done this to most rear wheels you would have ended up with your wheel with incorrect dish (and if yours is a disc wheelset then that might be the case as well), as there is a difference in tension between drive and non-drive side (or disc/non-disc sides). Tension up to 20% difference in spoke tension average is not unusual. There are upper limits to tension, depends on your spoke/rim combo. Undoing what you did might not be too hard, but will require time and patience; a truing stand makes it a lot easier. You could detension the wheel some then go at it again. Wheel truing/building is an excellent skill to have; gotta start somewhere.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

z1 zonly said:


> So, is this a predicament that I can pull myself out of, or a job for the LBS? If it's the former, HOW?


Read the information at the following sites and decide for yourself whether you're able to do it or not.

http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/faq.htm#WTQ1
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html


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## kylejohn4543 (Jun 24, 2006)

KevinB said:


> Read the information at the following sites and decide for yourself whether you're able to do it or not.
> 
> http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/faq.htm#WTQ1
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html


The guy doesn't need to rebuild his wheels, he just needs them trued.


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## KevinB (Oct 5, 2004)

kylejohn4543 said:


> The guy doesn't need to rebuild his wheels, he just needs them trued.


I think these links are still worth reading, especially since Mike T's page describes how to do things without a lot of fancy tools. The initial sections of wheelbuilding (spoke length determination, lacing, etc.) can be skipped, but the portions regarding dishing, tensioning, and truing are all still applicable.


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## Adirondack Blues (Mar 4, 2004)

You don't necessarily need to spend big bucks at the LBS. If you are careful and understand what you are doing, you can true and tension (even dish) a wheel right on the bike without any fancy truing stands, tension gizmos, etc. You will, however, need a decent spoke wrench, several beers, and a quiet and uninterrupted place to work for an hour or so. Once you mess around with a few wheels, the process becomes less intimidating. BTW, the quickest way to make major changes to wheel tension or true/dish is to pull the rim strips and use a screwdriver to turn the spoke nipples from inside the rim. :thumbsup:


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## z1 zonly (Oct 5, 2006)

Adirondack Blues said:


> BTW, the quickest way to make major changes to wheel tension or true/dish is to pull the rim strips and use a screwdriver to turn the spoke nipples from inside the rim. :thumbsup:


That's pretty genius. I might actually attempt that.

From what I've seen of the rim strip, it looks to be adhesive backed. Is it a one-time use product, or can it be reused? If not, how much is a new one?


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## Adirondack Blues (Mar 4, 2004)

z1 zonly said:


> That's pretty genius. I might actually attempt that.
> 
> From what I've seen of the rim strip, it looks to be adhesive backed. Is it a one-time use product, or can it be reused? If not, how much is a new one?


Most rim strips/rim tape I've seen can be reused a few times with no problems. Hell, I reused Velox rim tape that was 30 years old and it still worked ok.

If not, they are very inexpensive to replace.


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## z1 zonly (Oct 5, 2006)

YES! Thanks so much!


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## Psycho Mike (Apr 2, 2006)

Just take it slow and easy...better to catch a little mistake and correct it early, than to knacker it worse than it already is.


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