# I am having trouble unweighting the front wheel.



## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

Hi there, Clyde here at 6'4" 250 lbs. I ride a 2014 Scott Scale 960. I find unweighting the front wheel difficult. I took a beginners mtb course today and got a little better when the instructor showed me the wheelie technique to use the force of the pedal stroke to help lift the wheel.

I would really like to lift the front wheel off the ground with ease at any given time. This would help me to get over logs and rocks.

I am very heavy over my hands in general and getting the front wheel up is hard. This also makes descents a little scary. I think it has to do with a number of things:

1. I have a long torso so my weight is stretched out over the bars and front wheel.
2. I am heavy in general so there is a lot to move and lift.
3. My bike's geometry is not ideal in that:
a. The seat tube is not angled far back enough over the rear wheel.
b. It is an XC bike and is not designed for going over large trail obstacles. Or the bike just does not fit me well.
c. It has with a long top tube. This is comfortable for me but may hinder unweighting.
d. I have a long stem at 31.8mm and flat bars.
4. I am an advanced beginner and still learning so I just need to practice, watch videos, ride more, etc.

Item 3d. I can remedy with component changes by getting a shorter stem and riser bars. I could also get a new bike but I just got this one.  The bike is really comfortable for me and all other aspects of it I am happy with. It is really fast and climbs great. However I am a little uncertain about it toughness. I have yet to do any real drops but we will see how it holds up.

I just read an article on manualing but have yet to try it. With the difficulty I have been having I suspect it will be hard but I never know until I try.

If you could confirm or deny my ideas on why I am having trouble with unweighting and any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Disclaimer: You've got over a hundred pounds on me, I just stumbled in here clicking on "New Posts."

I think there are two problems, and they're related.

Your riding position is wrong, and your bike doesn't fit you. It's hard to have a good riding position on a bike that doesn't fit, at least as soon as I start getting tired. And it's hard to nail one's fit without a feel for what a good riding position is.

For me, it's about having most of my weight on my feet. You can't ski with heavy hands. Don't let the presence of handle bars confuse you - it's getting in your way on your bike too. Did your instructor talk about the Attack Position? Could you do it? Did you feel like you were getting pulled in some weird direction by your bike? Could you take your hands off the bars in the same position as your bike imposed when you did the Attack Position?

Your seated position should really not be very different from the Attack Position. Most of your weight should still be over your feet, and if you do transition into the Attack Position, you shouldn't have to move forward or backward, and you should be able to get off the saddle by any amount you want to.

If your technique and riding position are good, you'll have no trouble popping up your front wheel. Including on a XC bike - actually it was racing XC that I realized my technique blew. Everyone else was flowing over logs across the trail beautifully and I was doing some stupid thing with preloading my suspension and yanking upwards. But XC races are won on climbs, which often have ledges to get up. Being able to lift the front wheel with control is really important. XC races are sometimes lost on descents. Being able to lift the front wheel with control is really important.  Probably why your instructor was talking about it. Not the racing so much, but because it's important for mountain biking in general, even if you never want to compete and you want to ride off of boulders and woodwork.

If your stem isn't already flipped into the upward angle and at the top of the spacer stack, try that first. If it is, try the shorter stem or the risers. I'd suggest doing those one at a time.

You might also try when you're riding uphill. Having the bike tipped back a bit already can make it a little easier. Once you get a feel for the motion (reminds me of the tail wagging the dog) you can transfer it to riding on whatever grades.

If you're on clipless, I think it's useful to practice this stuff on flats. Ultimately I've gone back to clipless. I'm more comfortable that way. But the feedback from having a pedal I physically can't pull up on was useful, and being able to just step off the bike if I overshoot my balance point and loop out when I try to wheelie is nice.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Huh. I dunno if the pic was there and I missed it or if I spent way too long writing my post and you added it. So a couple thoughts.

That stem looks super low-angle. Is that a 0 or a +/- 6?

You complained about your seat tube angle or something. I don't care about my seat tube angle per se. I care about where my saddle is. Your saddle is sitting somewhat forward in the clamp. So you can slide it back a couple centimeters. Give it a shot - you could be right that it's too far forward for you.

Trying "real" flat pedals was a revelation for me. If your pedals are annoying you, give something nicer a shot. Flat pedal afficionados will probably come in with some nicer recommendations, but for a low-dollar option, the Redline Alloy pedal worked pretty well for me.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

It might be a little to do with your position on the bike, but it's 90% technique anyway. I can pop the front wheel of my road bike when I have to and that's on drop bars and way more stretched out than on a mtb.
Practice, practice, practice. It's easier with some suspension as well. Push down and 'pre-load' the suspension, then pull up on the bars. You don't need the wheelie technique to pop the front wheel.
Your stem is not 31.8mm long. That's the size of the clamp ie what diameter bars will fit. Given how much seatpost you have out, your weight is quite a long way up and back close to the rear axle and therefore quite a long way back.
You said it yourself - you're new to this. Get out and ride and ride with someone else if you can. It's practice you need.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

Folks, thanks for the replies. I do ride the stock flats with some plastic toe hooks added.

@AndrwSwtch: I was taught the attack position. It felt ok. I did feel a little unbalanced when standing because of my stretched out position. When you say the bike doesn't fit me are you saying the frame or is it just due to the stem and bars? Yeah I added the pic a few minutes later. The stem is probably longer than 32mm you are right and is pretty straight. Looks at least double that. I have moved my seat back on the rails and lowered the tube since that pic.

@TooTallUK. Yeah I know what you mean. I did improve a good deal after that first class by at least getting the wheel up a little with the wheelie technique. Using the attack position and being on my feet more helped too. I hope to get better in practice.

I am very comfortable on the bike seated. Standing I feel a little off balance but hopefully that will change. I wish I had tried standing during my test ride, I just didn't think to do it since I am newbie.


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## JHH (Jul 4, 2013)

1. Ride more
2. move seat back on rails
3. Ride more
4. Slam stem against top tube/head tube
5. Ride more
6. learn to shift your ass over the back of your seat
7. Ride more
8. Get a shorter stem
9. Ride more
10. Ride more.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Having your weight on the pedals makes the front heavier. If you're not doing anything to reduce that, it's obvious that your wheel is going to want to stay on the ground. Throwing your hips back will move your weight off the pedals and help get the wheel up uninhibited. This hip movement is the most important step of wheelies, manuals, and "J-hops" (and other maneuvers). You can actually initiate a wheelie without hands with it. The pedal stroke only works if you can put out a large amount of torque at a low speed, which doesn't work too well when actually riding on the trails. Preloading the front tire and suspension can help get the front up too. Try actually making yourself loop out backwards with a wheelie, and control yourself from actually going over the back with the rear brake in your practice to get a feel for getting the front wheel up more than a foot. This applies to basically all types of bikes and types or rider builds, including your bike and your body. Your type of bike is far from being one the hardest to get the front wheel up, I'd say it's more on the easier side. Picture your ass being behind the rear axle and aim to do that without getting out of the saddle--push your weight back through the saddle, and when the bike tilts up, it will get there.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ I agree with others above. it's 95% technique, but to assist you while your learning you can flip your stem to raise the handlebars a bit. it's not going to solve your problem, more like a band-aid, but it will reduce your weight on the handlebars slightly. 

in the pic the riding position looks pretty good, with the handlebars slightly lower than the saddle. I made cockpit adjustments a few times over my first year of riding. both with saddle and stem/bars. 

when you are approaching an obstacle your weight should be mostly on your feet, not your saddle, though it should be pretty easy to get the front wheel up either way. that will allow you to more easily shift you entire body weight rearward assisting the front wheel up. also using the pedal stroke (in some scenario's) is equally effective. 

it just takes practice i guess. I'm not sure how long your chainstays are, but that is another big factor in the ease of raising the front wheel. probably more so than your riding position on the bike.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I don't know if your frame is right for you or not. You really have to play with your cockpit setup. 10 mm changes in stem length and 5 mm changes in stack height can make a pretty big difference. Stem length is measured from the center of the handlebar clamp to the center of the stem clamp.

Roadies refer to the relationship between handlebar height and saddle height as "drop." I think there are a lot of things that drive what that should be for any individual rider. Someone with long arms and a really high power to weight ratio would use a lot of drop. Someone with short arms and a low power to weight ratio or limited range of motion would probably use negative drop - handlebars higher. Don't be afraid or embarrassed to use whatever works for you.

Look for a feeling of being well balanced when you're pedaling in the saddle, and for your handlebars to be wherever you want your hands to be when you're in the attack position.

The bottom line is that a bicycle is just another tool, and its value is in how it facilitates your riding.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

Varaxis and Ben thanks for the replies. A lot of good points that I should try. I just hope it is not the geo of my frame that is the problem, like the top tube being too long. I just bought the bike and don't want to have to buy another.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

JHH said:


> 1. Ride more
> 2. move seat back on rails
> 3. Ride more
> 4. Slam stem against top tube/head tube
> ...


Jhh thanks for the pointers. I am hoping more practice will help like you say. In point 4. you say lower the stem as much as possible. Wouldn't that counter what I want to do? I would think I want the stem and front end as high as possible to aid in lifting it. Thanks.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

soarftb said:


> Varaxis and Ben thanks for the replies. A lot of good points that I should try. I just hope it is not the geo of my frame that is the problem, like the top tube being too long. I just bought the bike and don't want to have to buy another.


Actually a longish top tube facilitates lifting and floating the front wheel. However, having your bike pull you off your center so you have to support yourself on your hands gets in the way of that. Lately, bikes have been changing a little bit toward having a longer top tube and shorter stem to put the rider in the same position. That puts less weight on the front wheel.

I think you're overworrying frame geometry, though. It doesn't sound like you've done much beyond adjusting the height of your saddle to make this bike work better for you. It always takes me a little time and experimentation to really nail the cockpit setups on my bikes, and more often than not I've ended up substituting other stems and handle bars to get there. Not saying you need to do that, but at the very least, experiment with what you've got.

If you really think the geometry on this bike is wrong, demoing other bikes is free. Actually it can be really useful - either you ride something and say, "Wow, this is what I really wish I was on," or you try some other bikes and they're pretty underwhelming and you're much more confident in your choice. I guess if you ride something you like and you legitimately can't afford it, that's kind of a bummer. But your sig block doesn't read that way.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

Andrew some great points. Thanks for your advice.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

Probably mostly technique. I weigh about the same as the OP, for what its worth, and can get the wheel up whenever I want.

Work on the manual technique. You shouldn't need a pedal stroke to get it off the ground (I didn't know they actually taught this as a "technique"). Don't jerk on the bars or try to 'pull up,' either. It is all about weight transfer and getting your body back in a good position, pushing through the pedals keeping the heels down, etc.

Bike geometry can help or hinder, however. My Enduro makes things very easy to get the wheel off the ground due to short chain stays and longer top tube. I rented an XC 29'er a month ago, and it took a lot more focus to get that thing off the ground.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

"It's all in the hips"... but just saying that isn't going to be as helpful as finding the right setups where you can have a more favorable weight distribution to start off with. 

Don't be afraid of spending time goofing around with the seat all the way down - it's tiring stuff, and may require taking some breaks, but just horsing around without that fifth point of contact will inform you muscle memory wise about a lot of things - not to mention being able to put your weight hilariously far back to see how the bike behaves from way back there.
Most of the actual rotational force that picks up the front can actually be made from weighting 'under' the front axle (90%) and providing a small amount of upward force through the bars (10%), if timed right it is a mini-manual that will bring the front wheel up to go quickly over, and with the weight already biased over the rear all of the good options are available for getting the rear wheel over the same obstacle. If it feels like you're just doing a big pelvic thrust, you're really close to getting it.


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

I am your size exactly and ride a XC Airborne Seeker. First thing I would say is unless a poster is similar in size, the advice won't really apply to us. I assume you have a 22" frame or close to that. At our size and weight, getting the balance point right is critical. That is what most posters are saying by "bike fit" or geometry. For smaller people, the bikes just fit a lot better. For really big guys, bikes don't always fit right. You are in the Clyde forum, so maybe everyone posting is our size, I don't know.

Anyway, I found it very hard to lift the front wheel on my 29er. That is somewhat just how they are with XC geom, ie. long chain stays (length of pedal center to rear wheel center). I experimented with sliding my seat all the way back and all the way forward. It makes a huge difference. Sliding forward made lifting the front wheel impossible. I couldn't get my weight back far enough to overcome the rotation forces. Getting back far enough (off the seat) is the key technique and you will need to get better at that. When I slid my seat all the way back, it was much easier. Still was hard though. So I changed my "cockpit" geometry by shortening my stem by 70 mm (a huge number but it needed it, it was that far off for my body dimensions) and raising my bars 3 inches (another big number that was needed). Smaller people never have bikes that are this much off in geometry, so they don't appreciate what it feels like. After shorter stem, wider taller bars, I did the seat move again. Success, with it all the way back my bike was a wheelie machine. Slide back a little of the seat and the wheel pops up. Butttt, on the trail I wheelied up every hill I tried to climb. Ok, had to slide the seat forward some and find a reasonable balance point. I favored climbing over light front end in the end. Now when I stood up, I felt a lot more balanced too. You need to move your seat all the way back and see how that feels. If you can lift the front wheel better, then time for a shorter stem and taller bars. I use a 40mm stem and 3" riser bars. I would like to go another inch on the bars, but I haven't found any with that much rise to date. 

Once you have a reasonable balance point dialed in, then its time to work on technique and all the other things posted above. If you can't find a balance point, then it really is time for a different bike with a different frame size most likely.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

Why are you on the seat when you're trying to lift the front wheel? I'd guess, aside from the occasional lift to get up and over a rock or root when climbing, 90% of my front-wheel-lifting efforts are done standing up and back in "attack mode."


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

Tystevens said:


> Why are you on the seat when you're trying to lift the front wheel? I'd guess, aside from the occasional lift to get up and over a rock or root when climbing, 90% of my front-wheel-lifting efforts are done standing up and back in "attack mode."


You definitely should not be seated when trying to loft the front wheel.

To learn how to do manuals, it is much easier if you drop your seat all the way down when practicing. You can then drop your but all the way down to the lowered seat, then quickly straight back, and drop your heals in one quick motion. It takes some time to practice this until you are comfortable with it.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

Bttocs said:


> I am your size exactly and ride a XC Airborne Seeker. First thing I would say is unless a poster is similar in size, the advice won't really apply to us. I assume you have a 22" frame or close to that. At our size and weight, getting the balance point right is critical. That is what most posters are saying by "bike fit" or geometry. For smaller people, the bikes just fit a lot better. For really big guys, bikes don't always fit right. You are in the Clyde forum, so maybe everyone posting is our size, I don't know.


My approach was rather similar, although I didn't have problems unweighting (a 22" DB Overdrive C6), going with a much taller fork (34mm A2C growth), and wider bar (720) really improved a lot of things - so making changes all around the cockpit should always be on the table.

I'm partially with Ty about when it's an issue - on my original setup for that bike it was only an issue unweighting up climbs (where I was parked on the nose of the seat), and now it's a lot less of one (even slamming and flipping the stem, and even running a 5mm rise bar inverted), so when/where it's happening is really relevant. If it's still an issue to unweight from attack position, then I would have to think it's a combination of a really unfavorable setup (a good thing to fix, but not free) combined with a need to build a bit more technique (costs time, but is always worth spending the time as long as the former isn't so jacked up you're just hurting your shoulders).

The more I look at that bike, I have questions about the sizing - if that's a 20", then the problem might be entirely right there - being 2" shorter and a bit lighter, I had to say not to the cheaper and in-shop 20" version of my bike because it felt that extra bit cramped, and blindly ordering the 22" was a lot better.


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

For myself, I do need to work on my manual technique and don't always do that movement when I need to get over a log. Lots of times I am pedaling right up to the log, or rock, and just stand up and bounce the bike and pull up on the bars. I think what you are saying is start a little earlier, get off the seat and slide my butt back to do a manual to lift the wheel with the hip thrust technique. For the rear tire unweight, shrug shoulders, or whatever to get the over the log. I don't have a dropper post and have pretty much left my seat in one place all season. Time to start lowering the seat and doing some practicing in a grassy park.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Hmm, I wonder if seriously trying to lift the wheel to 12 o'clock and telling the rider to hit the rear brake just enough to stop the loop out, and use body weight to *_as gently as possible, lower the front wheel_* would be a good training drill for those that can't wheelie/manual. The drill will emphasize positioning body weight and rear brake modulation. Maybe use some sort of short roller or mound under 1' tall to assist with front wheel lifting. In case it's not obvious, you shouldn't try to force yourself to be in the saddle for this drill.  Don't slam the front wheel on the ground too hard now...

Thinking about wheelie geo makes me understand why the longer CS, the increased BB drop, and how high the stack is (and steep seat angle) affects the wheelie-ability of the bike (all of which 29ers detract from). Would prefer if the the CS were short, BB a bit higher than the rear axle, super low front end, and maybe even a banana seat and high riser bars... :lol:


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

I used to practice lofting front wheel onto sidewalk from the street. I then started practicing on parking lot curbs and small sets of stairs. Here is a blog article I wrote about it:

The Frugal Mountain Biker: Part 10 - Get some mad skillz yo! | The Mountain Bike Life


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

Bttocs said:


> For myself, I do need to work on my manual technique and don't always do that movement when I need to get over a log. Lots of times I am pedaling right up to the log, or rock, and just stand up and bounce the bike and pull up on the bars. I think what you are saying is start a little earlier, get off the seat and slide my butt back to do a manual to lift the wheel with the hip thrust technique. For the rear tire unweight, shrug shoulders, or whatever to get the over the log. I don't have a dropper post and have pretty much left my seat in one place all season. Time to start lowering the seat and doing some practicing in a grassy park.


Well, I guess there are 2 different reasons to lift the front wheel. The first is when climbing and trying to get up and over an obstacle; you are probably going pretty slow when this happens. The second is when moving at speed. The technique for each is quite different, I suppose. Which are you talking about?

When it is the former, I am often still seated, as I generally climb sitting. A little lift of the front wheel, maybe coordinated with a pedal stroke, and then another hard stroke and push on the bars to get the rear wheel over the obstacle.

When I'm at speed, I am almost always standing, and the wheel lift is more of a manual technique (weight back, push through the pedals). Helps a lot if the seat is dropped when trying to do this.


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

I am talking about the at speed wheel lift. I agree with what you say in both instances. I need to improve on my manual technique for the speed case. A lot of times I am on a relatively flat section of trail, so I maybe seated or standing. If seate, I do stand before I try to go over the obstacle. I haven not dropped my seat, though. I don't have a dropper post so I have my seat set about 1" down from road bike height. I can just get my weight off the seat by fully extending my legs if needed, in lieu of fully standing up. Next time I ride a rough trail, I will try dropping it another 3" or so and see what difference that makes.


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## coke (Jun 7, 2008)

Skimmed through this thread and didn't see these mentioned.

Make sure your fork is set up properly. You want somewhere between 20 to 30% sag.

Speeding up the rebound a couple clicks can make a difference on how easy it is to lift the wheel.


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

I thought more about this and realized I am riding flats and it may be easier getting the wheel up clipless. If attached to the pedals I can lift up on them with my legs giving more lift to the front end. Confirm or deny? Thanks.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Deny. Both the wheelie motion and manual motion are based on pressing through your foot. Doesn't matter if you're using clipless pedals or flats.

Trying to lift your bike with your legs is a bit like trying to lift yourself up by your boot straps..


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## soarftb (May 18, 2015)

OK thanks Andrew. I guess clipless would only help with bunny hops then.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

It's just "cheating" and improper technique. It's like saying it's not efficient technique pull up on your pedal stroke, but better to merely unweight it and suck it up enough to not offer any resistance on the other side's downstroke (unless inefficient brute force is needed to sprint or to break out of a stall). Doing it for a bunnyhop results in a 2-wheel hop, which is not a real J-hop style bunnyhop (more useful version for getting over obstacles), which actually incorporates a manual into the first half of its movement. If you lift your feet to help lift the front wheel, you might get it to somewhere between 1 and 2 o'clock, but if will slam right back down violently. You got to spring your weight backwards behind the rear axle. Try over exaggerating the rearward springing (loading the bike with both the upper body and lower body through the pedals, before springing back), and try and tap the rear brake as late as possible to get a feel of the wheel in the air and maybe work on getting the bike going up straight, rather than turning to a certain side.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

I wouldn't classify it as cheating - it's a lot more like learning how to ollie on a skateboard, but insisting on wakeboad loops to learn the skill... it does work, but if you're reliant on that the technique is poor, being reinforced with the wrong technique, and as such opens up some possibilities for injury, as it's getting the wheel(s) up, but not necessarily unweighting them correctly.

Clips are a lot more about lateral stability over chatter/chunder/braking bumps and pedaling efficiency with less to drag/bash over rocks on technical climbs than anything else - being able to get more altitude on bunny hops is not a reason to gl clipless by itself.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

Don't over-complicate it. It just takes practice, and don't expect to be an expert overnight.

For me it was easiest to practice using the sidewalks right in front of my house. Start off on low easy sidewalks, move yourself up to taller ones, and then to parking lot curbs. It is mostly about how quick you shift your weight back, dip your heals, and timing. Don't pull up on the handlebars with your arms. 

Some bikes are much more difficult to get the front wheel up because of their geometry than others. A 29er with longer chainstays, longer wheelbase, that has you stretched out in an XC position with more weight over the handlebars will be more difficult. You can still loft the front end on a bike like this, just not as easily. A BMX bike is super easy to lift (almost like cheating). Don't even bother trying it on a low slung beach cruiser bike.


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## Bttocs (Jun 21, 2014)

I went out and practiced manuals last night per what you all have been saying. I dropped my seat about 3" to give me more room. I realized I had have been doing what you say for the most part. I focused on pushing more and harder with my feet and less pull up with my arms. Worked pretty well, but the wheel would come up and then go back down. I was never able to get to a balance point where I could hold the wheel up. on my motox bike I loved to wheelie and could ride it a long ways. The motor is doing the work for the most part though. 

I came to realize the motion is similar if you walk next the bike holding the handlebars. Throw the bike forward quickly to give it some momentum, and then pull up and back on the bars. The front wheel comes right up and pivots about the back wheel. The manual is similar momentum for the bike, only your feet supply the forward push on the pedals, and the lower your body is, and the lower angle you push through, the better. I always needed some pull with my hands, couldn't do it with just legs. No matter how far back I got (hands on bars still) I couldn't raise the front wheel without the leg push and pull on the bars. I also couldn't apply enough opposite force to keep the front wheel up.

I have seen some video's where people can balance with the wheel up, basically a wheelie. Doesn't seem possible on my XC 29 bike


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

It's all possible. You just need to practice.

If it's possible on a road bike, it's possible on your XC 29er. You just need to learn and practice.


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## blundar (Jan 18, 2013)

It sounds like you are well on your way now. Just keep on practicing. After a while, it just becomes just another tool in your skills bag that you can use with full confidence consistently. 

On the trail, most manuals that I do are to get over a log across the path. After getting the front wheel up and over, I then un-weight the back tire to get the back end over without loosing too much momentum.

Sometimes I will also do manuals for small drop-offs so that I can land square on both wheels at the same time, instead of heavily on front wheel first. Either way, I only loft the wheel enough to do the obstacle. This is definitely not high enough to balance myself on one wheel.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

Bttocs said:


> I have seen some video's where people can balance with the wheel up, basically a wheelie. Doesn't seem possible on my XC 29 bike


It's possible, but also consider that you're now riding with your hands almost 5' off the ground, given the wheelbase of the bike and likely balance point if you get there - I struggle to not loop out when I'm doing that on my XC hardtail, it just feels like I'm trying to do a wheelie on a drag bike that I'm gaining so much extra height off the ground and losing stability with it... I really mostly just do this horsing around, and I lack the balance to sustain any kind of useful distance while up there (20ft at the top end), but it still reinforces proper unweighting on the front, and reminds me to use technique when touching down; doing full on wheelies is just for showing off to my wife while she's working hard next to me on her road bike, because I'm a jerk.


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## Tystevens (Nov 2, 2011)

Bttocs said:


> I have seen some video's where people can balance with the wheel up, basically a wheelie. Doesn't seem possible on my XC 29 bike


Oh, I'm sure it's possible. There are people than can do stuff on a bike that most of us can't even dream of.

But it isn't necessary. I cannot ride an extended "wheelie," using manual or other techniques. But I can get my front tire up high enough any time I need to. It just takes practice.

Good luck!


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Do you guys find it easier on longer bikes with a short stem or a shorter bike with a longer stem? Assuming the saddle to bar distance stays the same.


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