# Trued a wheel for the first time - Mavic Crossmax SLR - Yay!!



## snovvman (Jan 4, 2010)

I bought a set of used Mavic Crossmax SLRs, and the rear wheel was a bit out-of-true. I researched and digested the concept of truing, and learned that I must use the tool to hold the bladed-spoke while turning the nipple. For you experienced folks, I know it's not a big deal. Alas I'm a noob, and always thought that turning wheels is a dark art.

I don't have a truing stand, so I used the zip-tie trick with the bike up side down. I was able to get the wheel true to less than 0.5mm on either side. I was pleased.

The wheel is not out of round so I didn't have to deal with that. If I did, I presume I would loosen/tighten the two spokes in the area equally?

I am amazed how a 1/8 or 1/4 turn makes such a big difference.

Cheers.


----------



## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

*Crossmax SL's*

The good news is when you get them true they will tend to stay that way. Yeah, only a little adjustment needed on the stout bladed spokes to make a significant correction. Toss the 1/4 turn; 1/2 turn logic out the window. Minor tweaking is okay, but any significant adjustments require you consider spoke tension, wheel dishing (centering), and both radial and lateral trueness. As wheels age it all becomes a compromise between these four considerations. Personally I compromise in this descending order 1) dish, 2) lateral, 3) spoke tension (relative to each side), and 4) radial trueness. 
Basically, I'll give up a little radial hop at the cost of keeping my spokes evenly tensioned.

Since you said your wheels were used; Check the play on your freehub (wiggle the cassette). If there is significant play and the SL's are of the older design, new undersized nylon bushings (-.003) are available on eBay.

I rode two sets of SL's for 5 years each on two different bikes and they were amazing... They still run true and have no dents in the sidewalls. Just wish the earlier design freehub had been better; **the newer SL's have more pawls and a bearing in place of the nylon one. Pricey but probably worth the cost. **_It was pointed out this statement (in gray) is incorrect_.

This is my setup for dealing with conventional laced wheels (note the dial indicator attached to stand and spoke tension meter hanging in the center of the peg board). Wheel truing maintenance with the SL's was less frequent.


----------



## snovvman (Jan 4, 2010)

Thank you for your reply and detailed information.

I have some follow up questions:

1) Why is dish the most important?
2) Can one true the wheel simply by having exacting and correct poke tension?
3) Presuming that everything else is okay, is radial trueness achieved by equally adjusting the tension of the two opposing spokes?
4) One thing that I found confusing was the lack of starting point of reference. If the wheel is out of round "all over" laterally, which way do I true the wheel? To the left or right? How would one know without having some specifications/measurements?

I am familar with the Mavic hubs and bushing issues. I found the bearing replacement (in place of the bushing) kit on eBay and it worked out great. Comparing the Mavic technical manuals between the different years, it looks like they still use the 2-paw, nylon-ish bushing system on 2009/2010 wheels. I'm curious about your description of the "newer" SLs having more paws and bearing in place of nylon. The 2008 manual (last year for SL, I think), still shows the 2-paw, as will as the 2009/2010 SLRs...

To me, being able to "hold" the bladed spoke is actually easier/better when truing the wheel. Round spokes must be more of a pain? Is this why you say conventional-laced wheels are harder compared to SLs?

Thanks again!


----------



## MarkHL (Oct 12, 2004)

snovvman said:


> Thank you for your reply and detailed information.
> 
> I have some follow up questions:
> 
> ...


Question #1 - Imagine trying to hold a straight line on a log ride or ladder with your front wheel not in align with your rear wheel. You're bike will be wanting to turn in an arc for which you'd have to counter-balance in order to keep going in a straight line. You don't have to compromise on dish, you can always get the wheel centered. Additionally, If your wheel is not dished properly, you spoke tension is screwed up...

Question #2 - Probably not, but it would be a good starting point. Your drive side of year rear wheel and the disc side of your front wheel will have about 10%-15% more relative tension on them than the non-drive side. This has to do with the flanges being unequal distance from the centerline of the hub. You have to pull harder on the drive side to get it dished (centered) because it's closer to the center of effort (If you view directly in back of your wheel you will see the drive side spokes are less angled (straighter) from the wheel to the hub than the non-drive side).

Question #3 - It's always a compromise based on spoke tension... By opposing spokes, I assume you mean adjacent to the affected area, because to loosen the ones 180 out would cause that area to expand outward. With Crossmax's you may get away with adjusting only one spoke directly opposite of the hop or flat spot... for conventional spokes 2, 3, 4 spokes depending on severity (length) of the affected area... Normally if using four spokes turn the first one 1/4 turn, the next two 1/2 and the last one 1/4. But like I stated earlier I won't sacrifice spoke tension to adjust a minor amount of radial untrueness.

Question #4 - Without a dishing tool I'd look at your wheel between the chain stays and go the direction that is needed to center the wheel between them. Remember, the drive side should be noticeably tighter. You can pluck the spokes like a guitar string and listen for the same relative sound. However, my experience (using a spoke tension meter) has taught me that sound and spoke feel can be deceptive.

Put some light lubricant on the spokes where they enter the wheel and it will make adjusting them a lot easier. That plastic Mavic spoke wrench will not last too long, you can get a metal one from various vendors (Jenson's for sure).

Also all tension adjustments are based on a wheel without an inflated tire, since inflating the tire will reduce the spoke tension considerably, but that's okay... If you were to tension to max with a fully inflated tire your rim would be over-tensioned. Remember _relative spoke tension keeps your wheels running true longer_ and you won't suffer spoke breakage from too loose of spokes.

Yeah, with rounded spokes you have to make sure you don't "wind them up" when tensioning them. The Crossmax's were just rigid and didn't take much effort to keep true... Conventional DT Swiss 4.2d wheels (32 hole with 1.8mm straight gauge spokes) are not as forgiving in rocky terrain. I have some spare (new) rims, so when I toast one, I'll just lace another one up.

I checked out the Mavic Dealer site and you are right on the pawls and bushing. I'd read the descripton for the SX.


----------

