# I'll be building up a Mongoose Ritual frame



## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

In case anyone cares to check it out or help with some of my noob questions 

I have been riding an '03 Specialized HR since I bought it new (first mtb). Been itching for a newer DJ style 26er for awhile, but couldn't justify the cost. Ended up getting this one for $100 and it was local so no shipping :thumbsup: Its never been used but from looking at the mongoose site its not a current year model, maybe someone will chime in with the year.



















I have never built a bike from just a fame before, so I haven't done anything with BBs or headsets. I guess any 1 1/8" headset will do?
And is an "standard American bottom bracket" what most all BMX bike run? 
I like the idea of BMX cranks anyway ...










I sold my books back for a whopping $71 today so if I could pick up a crankset and bb for that I would be set. I plan to rob my HR of what I can to get it going. It has a new set of Azonic Outlaws and BB7s, as well as an '05 DJ3 that will get me by for now.

Its no MOB but I don't need a MOB anyway. Fun on a budget is what I am after. Thanks for any help.


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## droptopchevy (Sep 3, 2008)

Looks like an 05'
Do you have all of the tools for a building a bike?


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Well I have alot of auto mechanic tools, but no I don't have a crank arm puller or a cup press.

I found the tech section on danscomp and it pretty much covers what I need to do.
http://www.danscomp.com/serve.php?serve=faq&html=faqs_tech.htm

I think I can do the headset with my rubber mallet as they suggest, or even in the vice. As for the cranks I am hoping I won't have to pull them back off, but if I do I think my 2 arm ball joint puller will work.

Now to find some cheap parts.


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## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

looks pretty good for an unused 05. I am running an 07 ritual and i love it,great bike!

here is a 3 piece crankset with bottom bracket for 50, and you would just have to buy a chainring (cheap)

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=27252

i dont know anything about it but im sure someone else will chime in...


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## jeffgothro (Mar 10, 2007)

Thats an american BB. Dont worry to much about installing it, its a piece of cake like the headset...its pretty hard to f*ck up intalling one - in fact, I find headsets harder to install in making sure I remember if the actual bearings cages are installed face up or face down. Cool frame, looks like a rider.

I call this face down.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

*thanks for the replies*

I found this Poverty crankset on danscomp for $50 as well

http://www.danscomp.com/451053.php?cat=PARTS

Can anyone say if ones better than the other?


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## jeffgothro (Mar 10, 2007)

If your going to skimp on the cranks at least get decent ones, those povertys are garbage.

Redline Monsters

74.00 free ship.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Redline-BMX-Mon...ryZ48843QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

in chrome

http://cgi.ebay.com/Redline-BMX-Mon...ryZ48843QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Standard Redlines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Redline-Proline...yZ158982QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I dont know how much your willing to spend...but I would just get some profiles over anything I've posted, yeah, they cost a bit more, but they will be the last set of cranks you should have to buy for a while.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

I agree. Drop the extra coin and get something decent. Profile cranks have a pretty decent warranty if you do manage to mess them up.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Well $50 was looking really good ... but I could do $75... would rather not go higher than that, need money for handle bars as well.

Would you say those Redline monsters would be better than these Voxoms?










Also $75 shipped


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## jeffgothro (Mar 10, 2007)

I would go with the monsters, simply because they are sealed bearing and a good reputable brand with a good track record, everyting you've posted is roller bearing, and while nothing is wrong with that generally its better to buy sealed, they are smoother and tend to keep dirt out more and I honesly think you will like them better.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

jeffgothro said:


> I would go with the monsters, simply because they are sealed bearing and a good reputable brand with a good track record, everyting you've posted is roller bearing, and while nothing is wrong with that generally its better to buy sealed, they are smoother and tend to keep dirt out more and I honesly think you will like them better.


They're not roller bearings, just unsealed balls. Unsealed balls CAN roll quite smoothly, but the bearings and races are typically pretty spotty on those low end sets. It can always be replaced with a sealed bottom bracket later...


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## jeffgothro (Mar 10, 2007)

un-sealed, caged, rollers - (un-sealed) I spose of you want to get technical about it, to me they are one and the same.

Actually, I think alot of sealed bearings probably use a cage, but the cages may have less bearings in them.I forgot what brand it was but I tore a sealed bearing apart once - it rolled smooth as glass, much to my surprize (was my first time tearing a sealed bearing apart) it had a caged bearing inside with 4 evenly spaced bearings inside a steel cage.

I dont believe my Solid crank bearings use a cage, I was repairing the plastic dust cover (it got a slight tweak from my screw driver hitting it) and if I remember it had loose ball bearings inside the cup and there was a race in the cup.

I've also seen a Bullseye bearings from the inside, for the cranks they use a caged needle bearing.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Balls and needle/roller bearings are quite different.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Alright, well I'll probably order the Redlines on monday unless you guys think I can find better for $75.

I was also looking at the $16 Aheadset from danscomp

But now I am kind of thinking $25 shipped for this FSA pig might be a good deal
http://cgi.ebay.com/FSA-Pig-Headset...ryZ56189QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem









Unless someone has something bad to say about it. It's $40 on danscomp.

Still looking at $30 for a seat, $13 for a post, probably $5 for a clamp, $20 for pedals, probably $35 for handle bars, grips, a front brake lever without a shifter, chain ring...


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The Pig is alright. If you pay a few bucks more you can have the Pig DH Pro with sealed cartridge bearings.


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## hardrocker77 (Sep 7, 2008)

You can out a headset in with a rubber mallet? I'm hopefully going to get a new frame for Christmas, and will be putting a new headset in it, so I can do it myself with out a press? Is this hard? I can do bout everything on the bike cept for crank(have a friend with the tools for this)/headset removal install because I dont have the tools, should I try this? It would save me from going to the shop and having to pay.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

hardrocker77 said:


> You can out a headset in with a rubber mallet? I'm hopefully going to get a new frame for Christmas, and will be putting a new headset in it, so I can do it myself with out a press? Is this hard? I can do bout everything on the bike cept for crank(have a friend with the tools for this)/headset removal install because I dont have the tools, should I try this? It would save me from going to the shop and having to pay.


I linked to the danscomp how to section in my second post.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

How would you say these Odyssey 41 Thermals compare to the Redlines?










I tried to find some more info on their site but its under construction. Wondering what they usually sell for.


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## jeffgothro (Mar 10, 2007)

http://goodsbmx.com/odyssey41-thermalcranks.aspx


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Thanks, I ended up finding them on flatlandfuel.com as well for $89 also without a bb. I guess I'll wait and see what they go for on ebay and if they get too high fall back on the redlines. I hate to wait though, I am so anxious to ride this bike.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

I got the Odysseys, and the Pig DH Pro. And all the other odds and ends should be on the way.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

So far the Odysseys are fighting me. The bearings tapped in with the rubber mallet no problem but the cranks and spindle are a fine spline and do not have pinch bolts. 

The instructions say to align the splines and tap them on to get started and draw them on with the bolts :madman: they are such a tight fit, crazy hard to tighten down.

Thankfully the set came with a crank removal tool. I found that if I backed the arm off a little every so often and resumed tightening down it went a little easier. I did grease the splines as directed.

Unfortunately the drive side arm wants to go on ever so slightly crooked  its barely noticeable where the arm and sprocket meet the adapter, but quite obvious by how untrue the sprocket spins.

I pulled it off and tried starting it out straighter but ended up the same. I don't understand how something that fits this tight could go all the way on without being straight. The left side was just as difficult to tighten down but sits straight. 

Not sure what to do, but I'll keep messing with it.

edit: talked to odyssey today, they suggested putting one of the fine tuning spacers between the arm and the sprocket. That seemed to take care of it. They said sometimes the boss is welded too low.


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## yellowjeep (Aug 20, 2008)

Pictures of progress?


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

I think I'll go get a chain tomorrow and maybe finish this up. Would 3/32" be the size to use for a 1x8 with a bmx front ring?


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## Foreveralout (Jun 20, 2008)

if you have a 3/32 front ring, then yea.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Hmmm.... I have this 30T Integral sprocket 









I guess if its 1/8" then my rear der. and cassette probably won't get along with a 1/8" chain will they?


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Got time to mess with the bike and it is definately an 1/8" sprocket. So I picked up a KMC bmx chain at my LBS thinking I might just roll ss for awhile ...

Well the rear axle didn't fit :madmax: I had been planning to run the through axle that came with my outlaws but the drop outs aren't that big. Switched back to the QR and its a little loose, I suppose that means these are 3/8" drop outs 

Spend more money, wait for more parts ... a feeling we all know and love 

$20 for a 12mm->10mm conversion axle . And I was planning to just run my cassette and buy spacers at a later date but I feel like if I am ordering the axle I might as well pick up this Sette ss conversion kit since its on sale for $13
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/16...d-Parts/Sette-Single-Speed-Conversion-Kit.htm

Can anybody comment on the quality of the Sette kit? Or how good of a ratio 30x16/18 would be?


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## yellowjeep (Aug 20, 2008)

A file is your friend dude. 2mm out of the top of that drop out could be done easy.

Edit. Don't run a QR in fork ends like that.


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

The Sette kit doesn't offer much chainline adjustment, though you can adjust your chainline with your cranks too.

A 30/16 is a bit too light for my tastes, but maybe it'll work out alright for you.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

yellowjeep said:


> A file is your friend dude. 2mm out of the top of that drop out could be done easy.
> 
> Edit. Don't run a QR in fork ends like that.


I have been considering a little angle grinder love. I am currious how moving the axle up 1mm might affect brake alignment.... I guess its only a mm ....I could add a couple washers to the caliper mount if it even needed it. Haven't seen any 12mm tugs, might drill out some 3/8" tugs.

Not really planning to run the QR other than around the driveway to try to determine what gear ratio I want.



XSL_WiLL said:


> The Sette kit doesn't offer much chainline adjustment, though you can adjust your chainline with your cranks too.
> 
> A 30/16 is a bit too light for my tastes, but maybe it'll work out alright for you.


I think it would be too slow on top as well. I really like the versatility of gears ... but going ss means I have all my HR parts free to reassemble it back to stock, and just have a separate albeit much lamer bike for trail riding.

Thanks for the input, I'll report back with what I figure out.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

This is where I am at right now. Rideable but I need to get a SS kit before I can put any time on it. The 1/8" chain and cassette hate each other. 


Levers and tires are on the someday list.


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## yellowjeep (Aug 20, 2008)

Looks really good man, what did you end up doing to get the wheels to fit?


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

yellowjeep said:


> Looks really good man, what did you end up doing to get the wheels to fit?


It has 12mm dropouts now :thumbsup: Got it real close with the angle grinder and then the last little bit with the file. Took quite a while as the file has very little effect on the 4130, but I am pleased with how it turned out. Went back over them with some black touch up paint and they might as well be factory 12mm.

Picked up a pair of Primo tensioners and drilled them to 1/2". Before the tensioners keeping the axle in place and brake aligned was frustrating to say the least.


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## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

looks awesome dude!

give a ride report sometime too (well i already know i have a ritual  )

levers...under 20 for avid speed dial 7s, i rock them and i like them alot with the little red adjuster knob

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BL306E01-Avid+Speed+Dial+7+Levers+08.aspx

or under 15 without the speed dial adjustments

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/16...akes/Non-Disc/Avid-FR-5-Brake-Levers-2009.htm


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## Foreveralout (Jun 20, 2008)

fyi, if you look in the single speed forum FAQ there is a write up telling you how to make cassette spacers out of pvc. you should be able to pick up a sprocket for like 5 bucks and a piece of pvc for 1 or 2 bucks at lowes.


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## yellowjeep (Aug 20, 2008)

How far do you have the wheel pulled back in the drops?


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

yellowjeep said:


> How far do you have the wheel pulled back in the drops?


Maybe 3/4" or so. I had it on the 17t and moved it to the 15t . I think if I stay 15t I can pull another link out and be close to all the way foreward.


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## mudtoy1986 (Dec 29, 2008)

so when did mogoose start making good bike again i remember back in the late 80's early to mid 90's mongoose was a great company like shcwin and gt


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## germ-X (Jan 27, 2009)

looks like a good start. keep us updated on your build.


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## JFoster (Apr 6, 2005)

Got some more parts in. Mounted the tires tonight and took it for a quick spin. 

Wow, what a difference good tires make :thumbsup: rolls so smooth and turns so quick. They're both 2.35 SNAFU tires. A rim job rear and knob job up front.

I'm no master of the the manual, and I am way out of practice but this bike is so stable on the rear wheel ... I was pulling about 30 footers in the drive way and with some time I think I can really improve. Although I could sit and pedal wheelies for blocks on the Hard Rock, manuals never felt that balanced. Can't really sit and pedal at all on the goose, with the seat so low. Still haven't spent more than ~20min on it though, been below freezing here.

If / when I decide to put gears on it the black SNAFU sprocket is 3/32" so I am ready to go. IDK though, this steel frame + SS just feels so solid and its so quiet... 

I went ahead and pulled the cassette apart and made pvc spacers. So far so good. It seems like as narrow as that cog is that it would eventually cut through the splines on my free hub .... I guess nobody's had that problem ?


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## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

Steel freehubs won't have any problems with those skinny little cogs. Some aluminum freehubs might have a little bit of scoring... but it's not a big deal.


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## spazzy (Aug 15, 2004)

nice, i think you will like those tires, i love them, and they are cheap too!

looks like a great finished build!


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