# mobydrv is born - all your cycling single LED driver needs in one :)



## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Hi all,

I've been working with DrJones from BLF for the past month or so to design the ideal low cost single LED bike light driver. It's based on the venerable Nanjg AMC7135 linear drivers (max input 5.5V) and it's set up to use a tactile/ electronic switch to make housing/ remote switch design easier.

Link to his website: DrJones' Custom Firmware Drivers

Standout features:

1) fully programmable - it has 2 mode groups that you can switch between, each with up to 7 power levels that you can customise with one of 12 brightness levels. Each mode group has its own memory, so you'll go to the last used level when you switch between them.

2) Custom UI - short clicks to go up levels, long presses to go down. So to go between Med and High, just click up, press down, click up, press down. No need to cycle through the other modes in that mode group.

3) Battery level indicator and low voltage protection - you can get a read out of battery voltage by press&holding when the light is off; each blink = 0.1V above 3V (so six blinks = 3.6V or ~50% capacity). When battery voltage drops below 3V, output is halved which allows voltage to rise above 3V and should get some useable "out of the woods" time. Every time it subsequently goes below 3V output halves again, until it drops down to moonlight mode (~1% max drive) so you'll never be left completely without light.

4) Oscillating "on-and-flashing" strobes - 2 oscillating strobe modes (regularOoOoOoO and double-pulseooOoOoooooOoOooo) with 2 different power levels each in a 1 to 4 ratio (flash is 4x the drive current of steady state).

5) High 18kHz PWM, so no whine or flicker

6) Ships by default with 2 mode groups; group one has 2-50-100% and group two has all the strobes.

7) Available in max drive currents from 1.05A to 2.8A in 350mA increments, although I'm sure he'd be able to add or subtract chips to order, he's a very helpful guy.

8) The switch is wired up to one of the stars and driver ground, so it's pretty simple https://drjones.dyndns.info/lumodrv-connect.jpg

I think this will make a neat driver in between the cheap'n'cheerful AMC7135 drivers from China and the boutique Taskled drivers. Hopefully most of the features of the latter with the price closer to the former. I think it will make an awesome rear light driver too, with the ability to have whatever set up of solid and flashing modes you want (or even just one flashing mode!).

Speaking of price, each driver (whatever the power level) is $7 and shipping is $2 for single sided drivers (up to 1.4A) and $2.50 for double sided drivers.

I've just paid for my first one, a 2.1A driver to set up in Master-Slave configuration for a new helmet light. Hopefully the ~$20 I'll have saved will stop her eyebrow rising as far as it usually does (it'll pay for the battery too!).


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Bloody brilliant! I may upgrade the lights I did with the Lupodrv driver.
Thanks for the hard work, Matt (and doc Jones).

Do you have a link to buy them?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

thanks! I'm super impressed by the work DrJones has put into this (my side has largely consisted of "hmm, I don't think that'll work so well for cycling, try this"), so he definitely deserves the majority of the credit for this. I'm even thinking of tearing down the 2 bike lights I have that use linear drivers to replace them with these, as I've never been 100% happy with the Judco switches I use.

No link to buy them, just PM DrJones at http://budgetlightforum.com/user/417 for a quote or PM me for his email (thanks for the reminder!).


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

I have to ask since I am getting use to thinking about things with a clicky switch... what is an electronic switch (I know the obvious answer), but can you link to one someone where for my visually challenged mind. Ready to start working on a brighter (more LEDs) light so I want to wrap my mind around the new switch option.

This is kind of topical because I lost a driver (yup, I lost it somewhere in my house) and am not ready to build with the b3Flex I bought.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

an electronic/ tactile switch is one which carries little current (compared to a clicky that carries all the current) and is used to close a circuit. In the case of light drivers, it usually pulls a voltage to 0V which is interpreted by the driver as a signal.

here's a very fancy one I used with the Taskled drivers
search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=EG4574

but you can get them in all shapes and sizes.

The biggest difference for me is that they're much easier to actuate (less feedback though) and, because they don't carry much current, they tend to be much more reliable in my hands than the Judco switches I've been using as clickies.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

must do more reading.... I have a secondary light on hold, so I have to figure out the switch thing and then I will likely try one of these out.


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## Knight511 (Nov 26, 2010)

My mind works slow... but I got it now. Normally closed (on); momentary open (off) switch. Got it.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Knight511 said:


> My mind works slow... but I got it now. Normally closed (on); momentary open (off) switch. Got it.


No, the manual switch is a click-on, click-off.
The "electronic switching" circuit needs a normally open momentary switch to briefly close the circuit to change modes.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

someone over on BLF posted a great video of the driver in action:

mobydrv - programmable driver mainly for cycling (electronic switch) | BudgetLightForum.com

looks like I'm going to be fitting this to a bunch of lights, especially my triple red XP-E commuter light


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

Greetings, 

I would just like to confirm that I am very impressed with this driver. Since that video I added one more mode in constant illumination section (5%-25%-50%-100%). Programming is not so hard as it seems to be, I failed only 2 times before succeeding  but now it's perfect 
The problem is: I have only one of these drivers and many plans for it, I must buy more 

Here is one of my ideas: buy 2x ordinary Qlite Nanjg105C drivers, remove MCU's from them (to make them "slaves"), connect them to DrJones driver (which will be "master" driver) and add 3xXM-L2 U2 emitters, pinch of thermal paste, bit of copper and a bit of aluminium, some good wires and 4 batteries 
*Welding goggles = mandatory


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks for doing the video.
I'm planning to set up my drivers the same way, with the 4 modes.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

You're welcome


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

sounds like a neat plan sirius, don't forget to take pictures before you're blinded  Glad you like the driver too, DrJones was simply awesome to work with (if you can call what I did work!).


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Haven't built a light in ages, but it was dumping rain and stupid TSN decided the second Pyrinees stage of the Tour wasn't interesting enough to broadcast, so I put together another Easy2LED light with the MobyDrv and an XML-2 on a nice copper star from the invaluable Matt.

Build was straightforward enough, but the LED contacts are very tiny, especially if you use beefier wires so it's a bit fiddly there to not short it out to the case/batt contact. Next time I'll try and paint something on the ring to insulate it a bit first.

https://drjones.dyndns.info/lumodrv-connect.jpg

Once built, the light program is good. It's simple, but most of what you need is there. I really like the battery voltage indicator mode, and also the idea that as the battery runs down it keeps reducing brightest instead of warning flashes then cut-off.

I wanted to add another power level, as it comes with 3. Only beef I have is that you have to add additional levels after the existing 3, so it means reprogramming the levels on all of them as you end up with low, med, high, low when you add one. A good change for Dr.Jones to make would be for any new levels to be added immediately after the one you were on before programming, which is how brightness and flashing programs work.

Otherwise, so far so good.


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*I need to order one of those drivers to try out*

Been prototyping a weapon light in between bike light builds









Is running an XP-G2 mated to a Regina reflector, single mode current regulated at 800 ma's at the moment. Thinking a mobydrv mady be just the ticket.

About 1 7/8" long and 7/8" diameter

****


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

At my request DrJones created a slightly different version of mobydrv code to be more flashlight friendly  Regular mobydrv has a feature that does not allow you to turn it off so easily while riding, there is no instant OFF capability, if you are in 4-th mode you have to go: 4->3->2->1->and only then it's OFF, version I requested (ordered it today, should be here in couple of days) has a instant off function from any mode you are using currently, so now its: short tap (<1/3s) switches up a mode, a longer tap (>1/3s) switches down a mode, and a hold (>1s) switches off. If this one better suits your needs just contact DrJones and ask for mobydrv with instant off funcition


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Sirius9 said:


> At my request DrJones created a slightly different version of mobydrv code to be more flashlight friendly  Regular mobydrv has a feature that does not allow you to turn it off so easily while riding, there is no instant OFF capability, if you are in 4-th mode you have to go: 4->3->2->1->and only then it's OFF, version I requested (ordered it today, should be here in couple of days) has a instant off function from any mode you are using currently, so now its: short tap (<1/3s) switches up a mode, a longer tap (>1/3s) switches down a mode, and a hold (>1s) switches off. If this one better suits your needs just contact DrJones and ask for mobydrv with instant off funcition


Even better. *Now* you tell me! I wonder if Dr.Jones can pre-program them with 4 or 5 modes on request too?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

scar said:


> Been prototyping a weapon light in between bike light builds
> 
> View attachment 814388
> 
> ...


Will the Mobydrv be too much power for a single XP-G2? Won't 3A blow it to kingdom come?


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

Well, mobydrv is fully programmable so you can delete or add what ever mode you want, I think up to 8 constant modes + blink-blink modes.
XP-G2 will handle 3A but you have to have VERY GOOD cooling and it must be on a Noctigon (or similar) copper star 
or
you can remove couple of 7135 regulators (only leave 4 or 5) and use it like that with XP-G2 
or
since mobydrv has 12 levels (in %: 1 2 5 10 16 25 32 40 50 63 79 100) you could programm it so the max level you use is not greater than 50%


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I was thinking of using a Moby for a single red Cree taillight, but I think I'd need to hook it up to an XML first and program it for lower output as you suggest, Sirius. 

Removing 7135s can be a pain.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

hmm, red cree XP-E emitter will accept only up to 700mA according to CREE (http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXPE.pdf) maybe a bit more if you overdrive it so you would be better with 2.8A Nanjg (with mobydrv) that has older 350mA 7135 regulators and you could divide them in pairs (by cutting PCB leads) to drive 4 x red XP-E emitters with one driver


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

interesting sirius, I didn't realise that you couldn't turn off by a press and hold in any mode. Sounds like a great improvement. 

Great feedback Rich and glad you liked the LEDs. I was just thinking about emailing you to see if they arrived ok. Hope you like the custom lapping job on the stars  I agree that soldering thick wires to Nanjg drivers is a PITA, especially compared to the through holes on Taskled drivers. Using silicon or teflon wire helps a hell of a lot - it's pre-tinned and the insulation doesn't melt. I also think that modes should be added above the mode that you're in so that you can insert modes without having to reprogram the others. BTW, you can order Mobydrv drivers with however many 7135 chips on that you want, so you shouldn't have to take any off unless you want to use one you already have. If so, the easiest way is to get a wide tipped iron, melt a blob of solder across the 3 front pins of the chip and then lay the iron across the pins. As soon as it starts moving, pick it up with a pair of tweezers. Once I heard about that method I haven't had any problems removing them. Plus you'll then have spares if you ever want to increase the current of a driver.

Cool light scar, looks great. Wouldn't you want a momentary pressure switch for a gun light? Most of the gun light builds I've seen on BLF seem to use them, although I haven't personally got a clue about the pros and cons 

BTW, another linear driver seems to be taking shape, I'll post a new thread.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Sirius9 said:


> hmm, red cree XP-E emitter will accept only up to 700mA according to CREE (http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXPE.pdf) maybe a bit more if you overdrive it so you would be better with 2.8A Nanjg (with mobydrv) that has older 350mA 7135 regulators and you could divide them in pairs (by cutting PCB leads) to drive 4 x red XP-E emitters with one driver


nah, they'll take 2A easy on copper  A really neat option that I've used in a rear light is mounting then on a triple parallel star from Illumination Supply. I'm only driving them at 1.4A pulsed, so each LED is seeing 450mA or so, but it's stonkingly bright, even in bright sunlight. I don't think that much higher than 2A total would be worth doing as you'd probably cause more accidents by blinding drivers than save by them seeing you


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

mattthemuppet said:


> nah, they'll take 2A easy on copper


interesting, I didn't play with them so far. Nice idea would be to use defused TIR optics and that triple star


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

that's just 2nd hand info, Match on BLF did the testing, although I don't think that he did it on copper and I can't find the thread 

When I re-did my rear commuter light, I just left it as a mule. Unfortunately, it doesn't throw very far and way more light than necessary comes out the sides, so I bought a tight and a medium triple optic from IS. Just haven't had time to play with them yet!


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

*Can't slip anything past you guys!*

Yep, still in the prototype phase. Was proofing out the size concept first so just had the driver and the LED sitting around. 

The concept is to just hit a quick "blip" of the light to disorient the attacker.

***


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

nope, we're a shifty sneaky crowd, that's for sure 

If it's for disorientation, would a high frequency strobe be an idea? I've read about the US military funding research into visual disorientation. It would make aiming harder if that was needed, but then hopefully you'd be able to smack 'em with a large frying pan instead.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Sirius9 said:


> At my request DrJones created a slightly different version of mobydrv code to be more flashlight friendly  Regular mobydrv has a feature that does not allow you to turn it off so easily while riding, there is no instant OFF capability, if you are in 4-th mode you have to go: 4->3->2->1->and only then it's OFF, version I requested (ordered it today, should be here in couple of days) has a instant off function from any mode you are using currently, so now its: short tap (<1/3s) switches up a mode, a longer tap (>1/3s) switches down a mode, and a hold (>1s) switches off. If this one better suits your needs just contact DrJones and ask for mobydrv with instant off funcition


E-mailed DrJones, and he has no problem supplying a Mobydrv with 4 or 5 modes and hold-off feature, so that should make programming super-easy.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I had gotten 2 Mobydrvs and 2 XML-2s, so I put together another light for a friend.
This time I got smart and took the light to work to solder the wires to the LED under my microscope. It was a lot easier, but still very fiddly. I think the silicone wires I am using are flexible but too heavy gauge.

I used a much thinner and more flexible wire for the switch, but in screwing the back cap on (after pre-twisting counterclockwise for 2 turns) it still pulled the switch star contact right off the board. I was able to solder right to the IC contact on the other side, but that was fiddly and the contact might be a bit dubious back at home without the scope.

I like the simplicity of the MobyDrv and some of the other features, but an L-Flex is much easier to solder up. You shouldn't need a microsurgical operating setup to do it.

I think I have asked this before, but anybody have a specific wire recommendation for the LED wires? It's hard for me to order online without actually holding the wires in my hand.



Ofroad'bent said:


> Haven't built a light in ages, but it was dumping rain and stupid TSN decided the second Pyrinees stage of the Tour wasn't interesting enough to broadcast, so I put together another Easy2LED light with the MobyDrv and an XML-2 on a nice copper star from the invaluable Matt.
> 
> Build was straightforward enough, but the LED contacts are very tiny, especially if you use beefier wires so it's a bit fiddly there to not short it out to the case/batt contact. Next time I'll try and paint something on the ring to insulate it a bit first.
> 
> ...


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I found 22 AWG and 24 AWG silicone wire online. Would either of these do for running power from the board to the LED- a run of about 2-3 cm max?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I use 22AWG teflon wire, which is a perfect size but the stiffness can be a pain sometimes (but useful in others), so I'd go for a 22AWG silicon. At the run lengths we work with, 22AWG is more than enough.

I agree about soldering to Nanjg drivers, it can be a pain. With the teflon wire I use, the core is solder impregnated, so I just bend the bare wire end into a right angle and solder it flat to the pad. I find that this gives a far better join than soldering the wire perpendicular.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> I use 22AWG teflon wire, which is a perfect size but the stiffness can be a pain sometimes (but useful in others), so I'd go for a 22AWG silicon. At the run lengths we work with, 22AWG is more than enough.
> 
> I agree about soldering to Nanjg drivers, it can be a pain. With the teflon wire I use, the core is solder impregnated, so I just bend the bare wire end into a right angle and solder it flat to the pad. I find that this gives a far better join than soldering the wire perpendicular.


Would 24 be too thin?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

if you already have it and the runs are short, I'm sure you'll be fine. We go overkill on DIY stuff, so most likely 22AWG is unnecessary  I think the MS cables I use have 24AWG and they do just fine with 2A+ over relatively long distances (12in?). I think I'll have to use something different for my next light though, as 6A will probably be too much for 24AWG!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> if you already have it and the runs are short, I'm sure you'll be fine. We go overkill on DIY stuff, so most likely 22AWG is unnecessary  I think the MS cables I use have 24AWG and they do just fine with 2A+ over relatively long distances (12in?). I think I'll have to use something different for my next light though, as 6A will probably be too much for 24AWG!


No, the stuff I have for signal wire is even thinner. 
I'm just looking for the easiest wire to work with in small spaces that will carry the current well. Just trying to decide between 22 and 24g for my next order.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

that's easy, buy both  For e-switch wires, I use the thinnest I can find, say 28AWG or thinner. It doesn't carry hardly any current, so you might as well make it as light and easy to use as possible.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

I usually use AWG22 or even AWG20 (just in case I bought couple of meters 18AWG ), haven't had any problems with soldering it to drivers, of course, you need to pretin the ends, hold the driver with something so it doesn't move while soldering and use appropriate soldering iron (i found out that small soldering points like stars on NANJG tend to "unstick" when you pull the wire soldered to pad if they are soldered with to high temperature or to powerful soldering iron. For example. 60W soldering iron is too much for this little stars) . 

When soldering leads for the button on mobydrv you really don't have to use thick wire, even the tiniest (I presume 28AWG or something like that) will do the job.
To avoid pulling the star of the driver you need to relieve the stress from the soldering point, I do it like this: after I soldered the wire for button I put a generous amount of fujik silicone glue on top of the solder points and leave it for 24h to harden. 
After this, you would really have to put some effort to get that wire off and since this is permanent solution don't forget to test it prior of gluing everything


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Good idea to glue the wire on after soldering. 
Still looking for an answer- is 24g enough to power an xm-l at 3A over a short run or should I use 22g?

I might just redo this light with thinner wires and glued contacts with a new MobyDrv Q board anyway.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

According to Table of AWG wire sizes 24AWG wire is good for up to 29A (30 seconds burst) so it should work just fine for only  3A in prolonged period of time.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Thank you. That should make working on this board easier.


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## Whitedog1 (Feb 3, 2009)

found These on the hobbyking Forums:

max. longtime current (rule of thumb - depends on ambient temperature and air flow)
8 AWG 200 amps
10AWG 140 amps
12AWG 90 amps
14AWG 60 amps
16AWG 35 amps
18AWG 20 amps
20AWG 12 amps
22AWG 10 amps

outside Diameter (hobbyking Silicon wires) 
8 AWG = 6.5MM
10AWG = 5.5MM
12AWG = 4.5MM
14AWG = 3.5MM
16AWG = 3.0MM
18AWG = 2.8MM (294 count .08 conductor)
18AWG = 2.3MM (150 count .08 conductor)
20AWG = 2.0MM
22AWG = 1.7MM
24AWG = 1.6MM (6.5AMPS)

needed heatshrink sizes:
10MM Heatshrink for 8AWG
6MM Heatshrink for 10-12-14 and 16AWG.
6mm shrinks to 2.8mm (measured while posting)
4MM Heatshrink for 18-20AWG
3MM Heatshrink for 22-24AWG


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ok, next build:
MobyDrv Q, 22g power wire, 24g to LED, Thin signal wire to switch, epoxy on everything once it's working.

I found a gauge on the silicone wire I have been using and it's 22g. Still too thick and rigid for easy soldering to MobyDrv.


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## Sirius9 (Apr 24, 2013)

It's all in technique and experience, little practice and you will be able to solder AWG20 wire to that driver with 0 problems in just couple of seconds


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Whitedog1 said:


> max. longtime current (rule of thumb - depends on ambient temperature and air flow)


Keep in mind that these values are R/C oriented. . For wiring inside the lighthead you have pretty warm ambient temps and no airflow. For wiring between the battery and light you have a length of 2 or 3 feet in some cases. Voltage drop running high current in small conductors is energy lost to heat. Bad for efficiency.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Vancbiker said:


> Keep in mind that these values are R/C oriented. . For wiring inside the lighthead you have pretty warm ambient temps and no airflow. For wiring between the battery and light you have a length of 2 or 3 feet in some cases. Voltage drop running high current in small conductors is energy lost to heat. Bad for efficiency.


I'm only talking about the short run of wire from driver to LED for 24AWG. I'm using heavier gauge on the battery wire, with short 1" leads of 22AWG silicone wire going into the light from the battery wire.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Since the run is short and the driver is about 3A you'll be fine with 24AWG. 

If this was from the battery to the driver with 2.5 feet of wire, you would lose ~10% of your battery voltage through the cable. This is how some builders used to run the old P7 LEDs direct drive to the battery. The cable and connections provided enough resistance to prevent runaway current through the emitter.

The R/C oriented table shows 24AWG good for 6.5A "rule of thumb - depends on ambient temperature and air flow". A reference book I have from the shows 22AWG at 3A for continuous duty in enclosures.


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## savvas (Mar 21, 2011)

mattthemuppet said:


> I've been working with DrJones from BLF for the past month or so to design the ideal low cost single LED bike light driver. It's based on the venerable Nanjg AMC7135 linear drivers (max input 5.5V) and it's set up to use a tactile/ electronic switch to make housing/ remote switch design easier...


Hi Matt,

I have a question about the Mobydrv please. I have actually attempted to ask this on the BLF forum but there's something about their posting arrangements that still escapes me! And I would have asked Dr Jones directly but he seems super-busy so I thought I'd come to mtbr first.

I've bought a Mobydrv 1.4A. Dr Jones has kindly wired it with 2 x 700ma separate 'channels' so I can run front and rear day-time 'running' lights separately on my cargo bike. I thought I was all set to design the led arrays but I've realised there are some holes in my understanding as to how the linear driver works.

I understand that white and red LEDs have different Vf ratings - approx 3v and 2v respectively - as well as corresponding different max voltages. Based on these differences I've been trying to work out appropriate front and rear LED strings.

For the front I figure I can just use 2 (350ma) or 3 (approx 230ma) *********** LEDs in parallel as their vf and max voltages more or less coincide with what a single 18650 will deliver and in 2/3P they'll make good use of the 700mA available.

However the rear set up appears less clear cut. Wile I think I understand how to accommodate the 700mA on tap, I'm uncertain about the lower Vf of the red LEDs. If I use 2 or 3 red power LEDs in parallel, will they end up being 'over-volted' due to their lower Vf and Vmax? Or will then Mobydrv just somehow follow the load and just deliver the appropriate Vf as necessary?

This quandary is further complicated because I've also bout some 100ma 'straw hat' red 1/2W LEDs to experiment with a large-array tail light as well.

Any guidance you (or others) can offer would be much appreciated.

Savvas.


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## savvas (Mar 21, 2011)

savvas said:


> Hi Matt,
> 
> I have a question about the Mobydrv please.


All's good! Dr Jones has come to my rescue, reminding me of the elementary relationship between current and volts! And how the linear driver will push through whatever voltage is required to deliver the required current! So I'm happy again! So easy eh...
Savvas.


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