# Best do it all 150mm-ish bike?



## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Ive been running a Transition Smuggler and a Commencal Supreme 29er for the last couple of years, but want to go down to just one bike and probably do a couple more enduro races this and next year. Ive only used the Supreme about 12 times this year and haven't raced it this year either, the enduro races around here seem a little more accessible and affordable.

So the question is what does everyone think the best do it all enduro/AM bike is? I go the bike park a descent amount and am 1.5 hours away from Pisgah but my local trails are very much on the XC side, but I dont mind pedaling a bigger bike around these trails.

I guess my main question as well is there anyone that has been using any of these for some descent bike park use I know they will all be great in Pisgah type riding.
Will probably buy slightly used so aluminum frame is ideal.
Norco Sight
Specialized Evo alloy (front runner for me right now)
Specialized enduro (carbon only and have seen alot crack)
Transition Sentinel
2022+ Capra
Trek slash 
Any other suggestions


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

The Stumpjumper Evo Alloy is awesome. 

I'm blown away with the versatility it has shown. Tons of geo adjustment to dial in how _you_ want it, climbs great, tons of traction and a blast on the way back down. 

Biggest tradeoffs from my old bike (Ripley V4), clearly, it's not as light and it's not as poppy and playful. It's also more limiting when it comes to droppers, your best bet is the OneUp dropper if you want to maximize drop and I'm not really that big of a fan of the OneUp. With the OneUp, I was able to cram a 210mm dropper, trimmed down to 200mm, on my S4 Evo Alloy.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

FrankS29 said:


> The Stumpjumper Evo Alloy is awesome.
> 
> I'm blown away with the versatility it has shown. Tons of geo adjustment to dial in how _you_ want it, climbs great, tons of traction and a blast on the way back down.
> 
> Biggest tradeoffs from my old bike (Ripley V4), clearly, it's not as light and it's not as poppy and playful. It's also more limiting when it comes to droppers, your best bet is the OneUp dropper if you want to maximize drop and I'm not really that big of a fan of the OneUp. With the OneUp, I was able to cram a 210mm dropper, trimmed down to 200mm, on my S4 Evo Alloy.


Yeah I have really been leaning towards the evo I just think it seems like a killer do it all, the adjustable headset cups they talk about is it a separate cup on top of the actual pressed in cups? Or do you have to punch out and press a different top cup into the frame?

I found a great deal on an evo alloy but he has it setup as a mullet which I don’t think I’d prefer but with everyone wanting to do a mullet would probably be easy enough to find someone to trade me a 29er rear wheel and he still has the oem 29er rear link.


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

Austin-nc said:


> Yeah I have really been leaning towards the evo I just think it seems like a killer do it all, the adjustable headset cups they talk about is it a separate cup on top of the actual pressed in cups? Or do you have to punch out and press a different top cup into the frame?
> 
> I found a great deal on an evo alloy but he has it setup as a mullet which I don’t think I’d prefer but with everyone wanting to do a mullet would probably be easy enough to find someone to trade me a 29er rear wheel and he still has the oem 29er rear link.


The cups are not really "pressed in" like with a traditional headset cup the needs to be pressed in and punched out. They can be removed and installed by hand. Headset tension holds them tight; this system seems to like higher than normal headset tension. 

Agreed, I don't think it would be all that hard to trade for a 29" rear wheel, I wouldn't let that hold me back if it's a good deal and he still has the stock 29" link.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Oh man that makes the evo even more tempting obviously not something you’d Change a lot but if I have a weekend trip to snowshoe planned or something put it in the slacker position. Does the frame feel pretty beefy? I don’t crash a lot but I don’t want to feel like I’m beating the crap out of it at the bike park.


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

Austin-nc said:


> Oh man that makes the evo even more tempting obviously not something you’d Change a lot but if I have a weekend trip to snowshoe planned or something put it in the slacker position. Does the frame feel pretty beefy? I don’t crash a lot but I don’t want to feel like I’m beating the crap out of it at the bike park.


It does feel like a really stout frame. I was originally between the carbon frame and the alloy. But I've seen enough cracked carbon Evo frame pics that it kind of made me a little warry, and a lot of the reviews I have seen pretty much all said the alloy bike was stiffer than the carbon version. 

Since I'm in the 200ish pound range, I decided I wanted the stiffer, less flexy version. 

So far, I haven't noticed any flexing issues from this bike. When I built it up, I was really impressed with the build quality of the frame and how dialed the whole thing seems to be.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

FrankS29 said:


> It does feel like a really stout frame. I was originally between the carbon frame and the alloy. But I've seen enough cracked carbon Evo frame pics that it kind of made me a little warry, and a lot of the reviews I have seen pretty much all said the alloy bike was stiffer than the carbon version.
> 
> Since I'm in the 200ish pound range, I decided I wanted the stiffer, less flexy version.
> 
> So far, I haven't noticed any flexing issues from this bike. When I built it up, I was really impressed with the build quality of the frame and how dialed the whole thing seems to be.


Thats good to know, Ive pretty much only had Transitions and Commencals all very durable frames albeit heavier. I am just not a fan of Carbon really, I just dont see the advantage except maybe on a XC bike. Even if you buy it brand new and have a lifetime warranty you are kind of hoping they have stock when you need it, I have a buddy that is on his 3rd Enduro frame and not from big crashes but he said he doesnt care the bike is so good.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

Everybody is going to be bias as to what they are riding. 

I am riding an Orbea Occam, it is great. But if I was to buy a new bike and funds were not limited, We Are One Arrival, without a doubt.


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

All I can add is to put the Ripmo AF on the list. Gives up a tad on the bike park/enduro end for some phenomenal pedaling characteristics on the climbs and xc-ish stuff.


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## Offthepath (Dec 29, 2020)

If it's between the alloy Evo and Enduro, I'd give the Enduro a good look. It's going to be the same weight (possibly lighter) as the alloy Evo but have tons more potential. I had a carbon EVO and now an Enduro. There are very few situations where I preferred the Evo over the Enduro and when the Enduro is better, it's a lot better. 

In the past 4 years, I've broken the frames on a trek remedy, banshee Titan, and carbon EVO. Knock on wood, the Enduro is still holding up. 

It sounds like a lot of the cracked enduros were earlier years. I haven't seen as many reports of 22-23 Enduros. Plus, specialized will actually warranty the Enduro compared to the down tube on the Evo.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Offthepath said:


> If it's between the alloy Evo and Enduro, I'd give the Enduro a good look. It's going to be the same weight (possibly lighter) as the alloy Evo but have tons more potential. I had a carbon EVO and now an Enduro. There are very few situations where I preferred the Evo over the Enduro and when the Enduro is better, it's a lot better.
> 
> In the past 4 years, I've broken the frames on a trek remedy, banshee Titan, and carbon EVO. Knock on wood, the Enduro is still holding up.
> 
> It sounds like a lot of the cracked enduros were earlier years. I haven't seen as many reports of 22-23 Enduros. Plus, specialized will actually warranty the Enduro compared to the down tube on the Evo.


Wow suprised you cracked the Titan, those frames seem bulletproof what year was it and how did you like it compared to the other bikes you mentioned?


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

LMN said:


> Everybody is going to be bias as to what they are riding.
> 
> I am riding an Orbea Occam, it is great. But if I was to buy a new bike and funds were not limited, We Are One Arrival, without a doubt.


And why is that? The 130mm version or ?? And how would you build it up?


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

150mm bike isn't suitable as do it all Enduro bike. This is just a trail bike 

You need 180mm travel for Enduro. 

Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

kapusta said:


> All I can add is to put the Ripmo AF on the list. Gives up a tad on the bike park/enduro end for some phenomenal pedaling characteristics on the climbs and xc-ish stuff.


I had the Ripmo AF on my list as well. But reports of it having a flexy rear triangle turned me off. 

Have you seen an issue with flex?


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Picard said:


> 150mm bike isn't suitable as do it all Enduro bike. This is just a trail bike
> 
> You need 180mm travel for Enduro.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


I dont know I think it kind of depends on the bikes, there are some 150-170 bikes that are super burly and slack and low but also some that just seem to be aimed a little more towards the sharper handling, better pedaling. The new Canyon Strive would be ideal but too much $$.

For some reason the Ripmo just doesnt do it for me, besides it seeming like more of a long legged trail bike I think im tired of people telling me how good it is on the "rough trails" near us which are just rooty XC trails, bike shops around here are good salesman I think.


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

I can only comment on the riding performance of the Trek Slash as that's what I have. Nothing short of amazing as a do it all bike with a lot of adjustability. I have not had the chance to do the downhill parks. Just local trail riding and getting suspension dialed in. 

I'm running flat pedals and good high top MTB specific shoes. 170mm front/160mm rear travel. I have the Mino Link set to high position. 

Getting to the trail: I simply lock the rear shock and go. It's a beefy bike and heavy so on road performance is slow as expected. Comfortable though. I have peeled off a few miles at a time on the pavement and up long grades with little drama.

Smooth to medium rutted up and down trails: Unlock the shock and just ride. Very little suspension bobbing on the flat sections. When climbing steep hills I find keeping the shock unlocked works the best for putting traction to the ground. 

The sides of RR tracks are the funnest (in my urban environment) to practice off camber performance in loose rocks. 
Just lean weight the outside pedal and the bike will dig in and go forward.

Flowing single track: This is one of the places where the Slash really shines. Your speed is only limited to your skill. 

Steep, rough and rutted downhill: This is where the Slash is nothing short of amazing and confidence inspiring. I actually have to brake hard and go slow as my novice "C" rider skill level is not even close to this bikes capability.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Austin-nc said:


> I dont know I think it kind of depends on the bikes, there are some 150-170 bikes that are super burly and slack and low but also some that just seem to be aimed a little more towards the sharper handling, better pedaling. The new Canyon Strive would be ideal but too much $$





ballisticexchris said:


> I can only comment on the riding performance of the Trek Slash as that's what I have. Nothing short of amazing as a do it all bike with a lot of adjustability. I have not had the chance to do the downhill parks. Just local trail riding and getting suspension dialed in.
> 
> I'm running flat pedals and good high top MTB specific shoes. 170mm front/160mm rear travel. I have the Mino Link set to high position.
> 
> ...


Good to know about the Slash as well thats another one high on my list that I think would certainly be a blast in the bike park. There are so many reviews on all these bikes but real world stuff is so much more helpful vs the reviews that are really just riding certain terrain that is probably best suited for the bike but not exactly the only thing someone buying the bike is only riding.


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## Offthepath (Dec 29, 2020)

The titan was a 21' so not the updated seat tube. Yeah I was really bummed out, especially because it was a "new" in the box used frame, so no warranty. The prior owner got it as a warranty replacement for a titan he broke witch should have been a red flag. Everything you hear though makes it seem like they are bombproof frames. Although there are several reports now of cracked titans at the seat tube, which is where mine broke. 

It's too bad, I really liked the titan. I think Banshee did a great job on the rear suspension and overall balanced geo of the bike. 

A quick comparison.....

These were all 1 bike setups. My riding ranges from park in the summer, rough and steep single track and a few Enduro/cross country races. I'm 220 and believe that fun is fast  

-Overall, my biggest complaints about the carbon EVO was the lack of support from the rear end. The faster and bigger you went, the less support you got. As a bigger rider, this may be more pronounced and if your under 190 or so, may not be as big of an issue. 

Another issue was the low BB. For general riding I adapted pretty quick, but when standing up charging and mashing the pedals, rock strikes were a real concern. 

The one area the Evo still shines is very steep and loose down hills. The length and low BB made it very confidence inspiring in these situations. 

-The titan has so much confidence on big hits. It reminded me of my dirt bike, you can launch it off, or into, almost anything and you know it will suck it up. The bike handled and turned great. Seated climbing was really good. Probably the best out of the Evo and Enduro. 

The downsides were that it rode the heaviest out of the three, although on paper it's similar to the Enduro. Repeated hits and chatter/chunk we're not as smooth as the Enduro. When trying to go really fast and mashing the pedals in rough terrain (ie racing) it felt slow and took much more energy compared to both the Evo and Enduro. 

-the Enduro has been the best overall compared to the Evo and titan. Pedaling and climbing is on par with the Evo. Suspension works really well in rough stuff. Not as much support as the titan for big hits, but 100x better than the Evo. Biggest advantage of the Enduro is how fast it is when pedaling and pushing the bike hard. Handling is quicker than the titan. 

Hopefully that helps.


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## EVgEEk (Jan 8, 2015)

FrankS29 said:


> I had the Ripmo AF on my list as well. But reports of it having a flexy rear triangle turned me off.
> 
> Have you seen an issue with flex?


I have a Ripmo AF and weigh close to 200lbs. I ride the bike fairly hard and haven't noticed any flex, but I'm also no Jeff Kendall-Weed.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Offthepath said:


> The titan was a 21' so not the updated seat tube. Yeah I was really bummed out, especially because it was a "new" in the box used frame, so no warranty. The prior owner got it as a warranty replacement for a titan he broke witch should have been a red flag. Everything you hear though makes it seem like they are bombproof frames. Although there are several reports now of cracked titans at the seat tube, which is where mine broke.
> 
> It's too bad, I really liked the titan. I think Banshee did a great job on the rear suspension and overall balanced geo of the bike.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response, really seems like the enduro may be worth it for me if I can find one in really good shape, the EVO is sick but if it starts to lose support on successive bigger compressions it may not be ideal, which is to be expected its more of a long travel trail bike suspensin platform vs the enduro which is basically off the Demo.


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## Offthepath (Dec 29, 2020)

Austin-nc said:


> Thanks for the response, really seems like the enduro may be worth it for me if I can find one in really good shape, the EVO is sick but if it starts to lose support on successive bigger compressions it may not be ideal, which is to be expected its more of a long travel trail bike suspensin platform vs the enduro which is basically off the Demo.


Are you looking for a used bike? FWIW, after getting burned on the titan, I will never buy a used bike again. A warranty isn't 100% protection, but it's just too risky otherwise.

Even though it seems there are fewer reports of cracked newer model enduros, I wouldn't buy a used one given it's track record.


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## AEyogi (Nov 19, 2021)

Been seeing Ripmo AF's for sale right now.


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Forbidden is a great Enduro bike
It can accept dh fork 

Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


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## Mac_89 (Mar 24, 2021)

Lots of Santa Cruz Megatower V1s going cheap recently with the new model starting to come into stores. Just for example there's one going near me that's 10 rides old and looks immaculate for £3500. It's an S build with a brand new Zeb on the front.

It might look like a big unwieldy enduro bike on paper, but I've always felt it rides more like a trail bike on stilts (which it is really). Slightly more conservative geometry and pedals extremely well. Still rips when you point it down though. Our riding styles sound pretty similar. I do all day epics, enduro, park, XC fitness rides. It definitely "comes to life" more on fast enduro stages or rough natural descents, but it's not a chore to pedal around all day. The Hightower V2 is a great bike too - slightly more agile and a little better up the climbs.


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## smoothmoose (Jun 8, 2008)

Orbea Rallon if you can get you hands on it. Enduro race horse that's happy to pedal all day and cruise and hustle a bit on the XC trails too. I'm coming from a 130mm bike and don't feel I'm losing much in terms of responsiveness or pedalability.

I mean, you can look at all the enduro round up reviews on Pinkbike, Enduro-Mag, Vital, etc and see which bikes fits you needs and style best.

FWIW, I never rode the Euduro, but did ride Kenovo SL which very close and didn't like it at all. Just felt dead to me and a bit too much to maneuver. Same with the Transition Spire. That said, I only 5'5" and prefer mullet setup. So if I were to go with Specialized, I would pick the SJEVO.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Yeah I should probably mention that I will be on an XL no matter the bike, good to hear about the Megatower, I will look into those as well I had a V3 Nomad carbon frame and it felt very very durable and was until I sold it. Did not expect this many replies but good to hear real world feed back on these bikes from real people. Guess I will have to update this when I find something should be in the next week or so. 

If anyone is interested in a Commencal Supreme 2019 tricked out build let me know!


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## WhiteDLite (Mar 4, 2016)

😁Arrival 2023-152 | We Are One Composites


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Mayhem 150


In this era of mind-boggling complexity, we at Spot Brand never forget that the best solutions are often the simplest and most elegant.




spotbikes.com


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Canfield Lithium
Guerilla Gravity Smash


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

I'd recommend a Revel Rail if climbing is involved. 



https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-the-155mm-revel-rail-29-wants-more-uphill.html


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## Zoomie (Dec 26, 2008)

Revel Rail 29


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## DGUSMC (Jan 29, 2021)

Austin-nc said:


> Ive been running a Transition Smuggler and a Commencal Supreme 29er for the last couple of years, but want to go down to just one bike and probably do a couple more enduro races this and next year. Ive only used the Supreme about 12 times this year and haven't raced it this year either, the enduro races around here seem a little more accessible and affordable.
> 
> So the question is what does everyone think the best do it all enduro/AM bike is? I go the bike park a descent amount and am 1.5 hours away from Pisgah but my local trails are very much on the XC side, but I dont mind pedaling a bigger bike around these trails.
> 
> ...


I wanted the Raaw Madonna when my desires sounded like yours. I favor the lesser known brands just because I like to tell myself I am supporting smaller businesses but that one ticked all the boxes for me.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I haven't ridden a Rail, but I own a Lithium.. looking at the geo's, I'd expect the Lithium to be a bit 'rowdier'. With that said, I've also ridden that on stupidly easy trails and been surprised at how it dealt with them. Either way, the CBF is a completely unique suspension.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

dysfunction said:


> I haven't ridden a Rail, but I own a Lithium.. looking at the geo's, I'd expect the Lithium to be a bit 'rowdier'. With that said, I've also ridden that on stupidly easy trails and been surprised at how it dealt with them. Either way, the CBF is a completely unique suspension.


Ive looked at the Lithiums as well, as small as it is the lack of descent water bottle location kind of sucks


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Austin-nc said:


> Ive looked at the Lithiums as well, as small as it is the lack of descent water bottle location kind of sucks


It sort of sucks, but with a bottle top cover.. it's ok. It really is the only knock I have against it. I dug it so much, I also have a tilt and that has the same damn location.


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## AEyogi (Nov 19, 2021)

The Atherton 150 looks fantastic, and is getting great reviews.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

my budget is probably about $4500-$5000 so the atherton and sure as hell the we are one are way out of the budget


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## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Mac_89 said:


> Lots of Santa Cruz Megatower V1s going cheap recently with the new model starting to come into stores. Just for example there's one going near me that's 10 rides old and looks immaculate for £3500. It's an S build with a brand new Zeb on the front.
> 
> It might look like a big unwieldy enduro bike on paper, but I've always felt it rides more like a trail bike on stilts (which it is really). Slightly more conservative geometry and pedals extremely well. Still rips when you point it down though. Our riding styles sound pretty similar. I do all day epics, enduro, park, XC fitness rides. It definitely "comes to life" more on fast enduro stages or rough natural descents, but it's not a chore to pedal around all day. The Hightower V2 is a great bike too - slightly more agile and a little better up the climbs.


Yeah for some reason whenever a long travel 29er Santa Cruz comes out people act like it's an absolute monster truck and start asking "is it too much bike?". It happened with the Hightower LT, Megatower V1 and now the MTV2. However none of them have crazy geo for their time. The MTV1 pedals very well and is plenty poppy. The only downside is the STA could be a bit steeper but slamming mine all the way forward eliminated the pedal bob. Maybe on the steepest climbs it won't be as efficient as something with a 78° STA but otherwise it should pedal as well as any other long travel bike of similar weight.


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## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

The first bike I thought of for that mix was the Ripmo AF. But from what I hear it definitely gives up a bit at the bike park.

I looked long and hard at the Stumpjumper Evo Alloy personally. But I'm a slightly larger rider (6'1", close to 200lbs with gear), and the reports of their low bottom out resistance was worrying to me.

The Raaw Madonna V2 is another bike I looked at closely, but the pricing just didn't work out for me. However, the exchange rate has changed a bunch lately, and it should be a bit more affordable. Last I looked it was still up around $2500-2600 without a shock. It may be lower now though.

Another option might be a Propain Spindrift or Tyee. They are both more travel than you're wanting, but the reviews all say they pedal way better than they should. And they are quite affordable. You can get the AL Spindrift for $1700 without a shock, or $1950 - 2400 with a shock.

Also, what about a GG? You could have seat stays for the Gnarvana, and then ride it as a Trail Pistol or Smash or something like that on the local trails.

I ended up with a Banshee Titan, but I picked it up right before the seat tube revision (new under warranty at laest). I've had the Banshee for 9 months now, and haven't had any problems cracking yet. And I've quite enjoyed it. It pedals well, and has a lot more progression and mid stroke support than the Kona Process I had before.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

This bike fits your budget and gets pretty rave reviews.

Aeris AM9 V3 - SRAM Eagle 12 Speed | Bird MTB // Born in Swinley, Built in the UK.


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## RickBullottaPA (Mar 4, 2015)

Definitely go ride a Santa Cruz Hightower as well. I usually change bikes like I change socks, and I have been on the same Hightower for years. It's a true "swiss army bike" that I've used for 24 hour races, XC races, enduro races, bike park days, stage races, lots and lots of epic rides, and even a DH once (OK, I might be a little underbiked for that one). Climbs like a goat too. I also like that it uses a threaded bottom bracket and easy to service suspension bearings and such.


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## norcalbike (Dec 17, 2004)

Ripmo still unbeatable in this category imo, if climbing is a priority.


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## Bikeventures (Jul 21, 2014)

Without reading the previous posts, I'm certain the answer is "the bike I own" 😁


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Eminent cycle. 

Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

Scott Ransom. 170mm bike that can be pedalled all day long, and used prices are reasonable. Available (if you can find it) in all aluminum, all carbon, or halfway in between (aluminum rear end).

Of course I am just following the thread's principle of recommending the bike I currently ride.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Preston67 said:


> Scott Ransom. 170mm bike that can be pedalled all day long, and used prices are reasonable. Available (if you can find it) in all aluminum, all carbon, or halfway in between (aluminum rear end).
> 
> Of course I am just following the thread's principle of recommending the bike I currently ride.


does the handlebar mounted lockouts make a big difference? Seems like a good way to make it more versatile


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## Preston67 (Mar 20, 2008)

I mostly used it on roads. Our trails are tech so didn't normally use it too much on trail and bike pedalled fine without it. In fact I am now running a coil shock and only miss the lockout on smooth road climbs. I will say I would never run a lockout shock without a remote though, that's a game changer if you like to lock out.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

honestly the only time I use a lockout was when I had my patrol with a cane creek coil on local trails. My local stuff is XC but still a little elevation change I really don’t mind pedaling something non ideal there. A lot easier to pedal a enduro bike on tame trails than it is to ride an XC bike at a bike park lol


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## snow snakes (Sep 13, 2021)

Bikeventures said:


> Without reading the previous posts, I'm certain the answer is "the bike I own" 😁


I'll tell you it's definitely not the bike I own


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

This thread has gotten everyone involved 😂
Be a dick move if I didn’t tell everyone what I ended up getting should be less than a couple weeks I’ll have something haha


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

Austin-nc said:


> This thread has gotten everyone involved 😂
> Be a dick move if I didn’t tell everyone what I ended up getting should be less than a couple weeks I’ll have something haha


Dick moves, it’s pretty much what MTBR is known for!


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

westin said:


> And why is that? The 130mm version or ?? And how would you build it up?


-It is a good looking bike (yes looks are a factor).
-by all reports it rides amazing. Climbs great, hitting podium in 150mm form at EWS.
-local company (based 1km from my work) that does everything in house and pays its employees quite well
-they also support there products really well.


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

LMN said:


> -It is a good looking bike (yes looks are a factor).


Maybe for yourself. Looks are of ZERO consideration for bicycle purchase. Functionality and reliability are the only 2 things I look at.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

ballisticexchris said:


> Maybe for yourself. Looks are of ZERO consideration for bicycle purchase. Functionality and reliability are the only 2 things I look at.


Have you ever seen one in person? You might change your mind.


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

LMN said:


> Have you ever seen one in person? You might change your mind.


Don't get me wrong. I may very well like the look of a bike. However it's meaningless if it does not perform or equipped to my standards.

For example the Orbea Occam is a hard pass for me just for the fact is uses a cheap BB386 EVO press-fit bottom bracket. I will not own a bike unless the BB is threaded.


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## FrankS29 (Oct 23, 2019)

ballisticexchris said:


> Don't get me wrong. I may very well like the look of a bike. However it's meaningless if it does not perform or equipped to my standards.
> 
> For example the Orbea Occam is a hard pass for me just for the fact is uses a cheap BB386 EVO press-fit bottom bracket. I will not own a bike unless the BB is threaded.


I get what you’re saying, but pressfit is much, much better than it was before.

Plus there are great options like Wheels Manufacturing thread together BB’s that are fantastic.

At this point, pressfit wouldn’t stop me from buying a bike.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

ballisticexchris said:


> Don't get me wrong. I may very well like the look of a bike. However it's meaningless if it does not perform or equipped to my standards.
> 
> For example the Orbea Occam is a hard pass for me just for the fact is uses a cheap BB386 EVO press-fit bottom bracket. I will not own a bike unless the BB is threaded.


Actually an Occam has a threaded BB.

But that being said BB issues have more to do with the quality control of a company than the type. Some companies just have inconsistencies with their frames, and their BBs have issues threaded or pressfit.


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

LMN said:


> Actually an Occam has a threaded BB.
> 
> But that being said BB issues have more to do with the quality control of a company than the type. Some companies just have inconsistencies with their frames, and their BBs have issues threaded or pressfit.


I'm only going off of the Occam specs. Maybe old specs? BB choice can turn similar to an oil thread so I will just leave it as earlier stated as I would not consider a press fit BB. Ever. I am very picky on every single component. Had it not been for price point I would have built my own bike up from the frame. 

As it is I had to make compromises on suspension choice, brakes and various other components. I'll change out as parts wear out.


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## LMN (Sep 8, 2007)

ballisticexchris said:


> I'm only going off of the Occam specs. Maybe old specs? BB choice can turn similar to an oil thread so I will just leave it as earlier stated as I would not consider a press fit BB. Ever. I am very picky on every single component. Had it not been for price point I would have built my own bike up from the frame.
> 
> As it is I had to make compromises on suspension choice, brakes and various other components. I'll change out as parts wear out.


Really old specs. 2016 Occam was pressfit. Put 15,000km on that bike with no BB issues.

I have had probably 50 bikes with pressfit BB. The only issue I ever had was my 2007 specialized tarmac where they had pressed in threaded cups. That bike creaked like crazy!

Honestly I have had more issues with threaded BBs. I just last week pulled the BB on my Occam cleaned it and greased it. My press fit bike don’t require the same periodic maintenance. But I do appreciate how easy it is work on a threaded BB bike.


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## billb0872 (Sep 6, 2007)

It hasn’t been mentioned yet so I’ll throw it out there, Evil Offering. I have a gen 1, it’s a fantastic bike. I weigh 205ish, it’s durable, playful, just a real nice bike


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

What about evolve bike? This is a good direct consumer brand bike

Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


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## KennyWatson (Sep 4, 2017)

Some great recommendations and some random ones in here! 
I don't get the comment that you need 180mm for Enduro. I mean most EWS riders are on 150-160mm bikes, looking at top riders, Melamed on altitude, Rude on SB150 for starters.

Speaking of which, I didn't see rocky altitude mentioned yet. Comes in alloy, adjustable, and generally well reviewed everywhere. Megatower V1 is a smart suggestion as well since they're like luxury cars, they depreciate like crazy one they're the "older model" so will be some good deals around I bet. 
Agree on Bird as well, except the Aether 9 might be a little too "trail" and the Aeris might be a little too beastly.

Commencal meta TR, Banshee Prime are good options for alloy "tweener" bikes too, although people either love or hate commencals geo. 

I had a ripmo AF and definitely found it flexy. It definitely straddles Enduro and trail but I found that annoying. It felt too big to really shine on mellow stuff, but when things got gnarly it was just ok. 

I think ripmo carbon must be really good though, a little lighter and stiffer, but once you're in that price range options abound.

In the expensive carbon world rail 29 is an interesting option. I am on a rascal and like it but it would be pretty challenged in an Enduro race.


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## Muddy-Runs (Sep 14, 2018)

Santa cruz Bronson or Hightower.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

Offthepath said:


> If it's between the alloy Evo and Enduro, I'd give the Enduro a good look. It's going to be the same weight (possibly lighter) as the alloy Evo but have tons more potential. I had a carbon EVO and now an Enduro. There are very few situations where I preferred the Evo over the Enduro and when the Enduro is better, it's a lot better.
> 
> In the past 4 years, I've broken the frames on a trek remedy, banshee Titan, and carbon EVO. Knock on wood, the Enduro is still holding up.
> 
> It sounds like a lot of the cracked enduros were earlier years. I haven't seen as many reports of 22-23 Enduros. Plus, specialized will actually warranty the Enduro compared to the down tube on the Evo.


By "broke" do you mean cracked? Or actually broke all these frames? (and I know in terms of being able to ride the bike a crack still equals a bike that you shouldn't ride) Did the Titan just get the crack at the weld that prompted the seat tube update? (checked mine again today and still good!)


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## CalvinHobbs (Aug 23, 2011)

Stumpjumper EVO alloy does look pretty great, but I'll throw 2 more bike options into the fray:

Devinci Troy with carbon front, aluminum rear - I had an all carbon devinci troy 2021 and it was a great bike... my favorite recent bike. I owned a carbon ripmo v2 and I like the Troy much more. Punches way above its 140mm rear travel class with a beautifully progressive suspension; great bike for a running a coil shock. Reasonably efficient pedalers and very nimble. Stiff, overbuilt carbon frame... but compared to aluminum, it's lighter. Superboost rear though. They also have all aluminum frames.


Reeb Squeeb, can run 130 or 150mm rear or 160mm rear mullet mode. Made in USA with a good suspension design. I think one of these frames might be next on my list.


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## jonesey382 (6 mo ago)

I don't see any real sense in buying new, if your only gonna need 5 inches of travel. Find a used Transition bottlerocket and just shred man. Save your " Brand new" bike money for if you decide to hit some double blacks and need some squish. The big boy lines at my local parks get decimated by gnards on early 2000s trail rigs all the time, to the point where it pisses off the richy-bitchy crowd. Don't overthink it, Craigslist is your best friend on this. Pinkbike is a far back, almost not worth mentioning, second place. Have used both but Craigslist is way more convenient. Just my unsolicited advice, without reading anything but the headline.


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## The Boz (Sep 28, 2011)

What do you guys think the Fezzari Delano Peak? 135mm rear, 150mm fork.









Delano Peak


All Mountains, Any Adventure. The perfect balance between climbing and descending for all-mountain riding. All mountains, all trails, every day. The Delano Peak makes every trail the funnest trail. All-Trail Mountain Bike.




fezzari.com


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## kapusta (Jan 17, 2004)

FrankS29 said:


> I had the Ripmo AF on my list as well. But reports of it having a flexy rear triangle turned me off.
> 
> Have you seen an issue with flex?


I don't own one, but I spent three days on one last spring in CO. I weigh 175lbs and the flex is not something I noticed. To be fair I have not spent much time on newer CF frames though.

However, as this thread goes on, it is looking like the OP wants something more DH gravity oriented than the Ripmo. Hard to tell. "Do-it-all" can mean a lot of things and when one is replacing a 120mm XC bake and a 200mm DH bike with the intention of riding everything from XC trails to lift-served DH park. It is all individual tastes as to what you are willing to compromise on.

My shortlist for a do-it-all bike came down to the Ripmo and the Canfield Tilt. Home trails are rough XC stuff without huge elevation, but lots of rocks and roots, but also make trips to places like Pisgah a few times a year, and do a trip to the park every once in a blue moon. I went with the Tilt. it gives up some on climbing to the Ripmo, but is a more fun bike on the way down, IMO. I did not mention the Tilt becuuse the OP specified 150ish travel, and the Tilt is 138 in the rear (I run 150 up front). But if Park is the main focus, I guess I would look at neither of these and in fact not be specifying 150mm bikes, but more like 160+.

Maybe the OP could be looking at a Canfield Lithium.


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## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

Not sure if anybody mentioned the canyon spectral. I have the CF7 and it pedals great, I never even use the "whatever the lever is called" on the shock and it doesn't bob at all. Feels like a big marshmallow monster truck. Mine weighs in at an actual 30.5#'s with seat, pedals, bottle cage, and computer in XL size (upgraded wheels + cassette, swapped stem and bars, faster lighter tires that aren't as grippy or durable as stock.) Back tire grabs traction like crazy on the climbs and the bike saves me from myself on the descents. 

Joe


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

So many good choices these days, you best bet is to make a list of needs, thneeds, and icing.

For me, I value kinematics first, geo second, and quality/appearance/brand thirds.

I've moved these around over the years, though appearance has never really mattered too much to me; I rode a white frame at one point.

A water bottle is just not that important these days, we have backpacks and waist packs, and for a short ride there's no need for water. I'd rather have good suspension and good geo/fit, if that means there's no room for a water bottle then that's fine. If we were talking XC bikes or bike packing, then yeah, I'd want a couple water bottles inside my frame, but for a big travel enduro bike, nah.

So to the OP or anyone looking to buy a new bike, you should demo some suspension designs, take the time to tweak the settings while you ride; NEVER accept the settings the demo guy sets, be you're own mechanic.

Once you find a suspension design you like, then look around and find all the bikes that have that suspension. For example, Revel and Canfield both run CBF, the Revel is carbon and costs more, their geo is similar to Canfields, maybe a touch more conservative. I chose Canfield because the price was right and I like Canfield as a brand. 

In terms of reviews and people's opinions, I don't know that I'd pay attention what anyone thinks because they're not you. I have buddies riding all kinds of stuff, I try theirs, they try mine, none of us agree on what is "the best". Set up and tuning is everything, but if you happen to jump on a bike that feels magical, pay attention cuz there may be something there you should adopt.

Over time I have evolved a cockpit fit that meets my body proportions, mostly based on comfort. I use the set up from my previous bike to set up the new bike, so all my bikes fit me about the same.

So yeah, try some bikes, learn how different suspension ride differently, then go through your list and find the ones that best suit your needs.


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## #DEL# (Jun 7, 2021)

Fastskiguy said:


> Not sure if anybody mentioned the canyon spectral. I have the CF7 and it pedals great, I never even use the "whatever the lever is called" on the shock and it doesn't bob at all. Feels like a big marshmallow monster truck. Mine weighs in at an actual 30.5#'s with seat, pedals, bottle cage, and computer in XL size (upgraded wheels + cassette, swapped stem and bars, faster lighter tires that aren't as grippy or durable as stock.) Back tire grabs traction like crazy on the climbs and the bike saves me from myself on the descents.
> 
> Joe


+1 Spectral is good one, but don't get twisted it pedals good for long travel trail bike (I have 29 CF 9 with carbon wheels). Even I use "whatever the lever is called" on the rear shock, I consistently lose to myself (on a cross-country bike) a few mins on 30 mins uphill on almost any trail. I mean when you hear advertisement that "do it all bike" climbs efficiently etc ... keep in mind it is all relative.. so compare apples to apples... it climb efficiently compared to similar bikes. The difference with light XC bike is noticeable with few pedal stokes. 

Now Canyon offer also Spectral CF 125 with 140 mm travel ... so just decide how much travel you actually need and how much you usually climbing.. If you usually do longer rides with 2000+ ft elevation I think CF 125 is better all rounder... since CF 29 is closer to enduro bikes, Actually Canyon's Enduro rider Jack Moir was riding Spectral for enduro and really liked it, but since canyon offer Strive models he basically switched to it..


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

In the spirit of talking about the bike you have, I have a Marin Alpine Trail XR. I got it with the same general thoughts as the OP except I don't race. I thought the 150 rear might help it cross over from the craziest downhills to easier trails. It has Ultimate level suspension on both ends and it's the most quality damping I've experienced. I've got it set to baseline settings which feel a bit stiff but well controlled. The coil has a climb switch. Somehow I didn't realize until after I had it how close it is to a Sentinel from a geometry standpoint. I think I'd like the 5 mm longer chain stays on the Sentinel. The biggest downside I feel is the weight. It just feels kind of heavy pedaling it around. I'm wondering if lighter wheels would make me significantly happier. It blows me away how it feels downhill. There is no built in adjustability so it's like it's stuck in slack mode. That concerned me when I first threw a leg over it but got used to it and am happy with that aspect now. I do think it's worthwhile looking at the spec and cost of this bike to keep in mind while looking at other choices.


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## justwan naride (Oct 13, 2008)

I was looking for a bike with similar design brief and ended up with a Privateer 141. Other bikes I was looking were the Orbea Occam LT, Ibis Ripmo AF, Commencal Meta TR, Marin Alpine Trail. I later rejected the Occam after reading that it's a bit more XC compared to the others. From the rest, most of them simply wouldn't be availiable for a long time in my size. Privateer offers the option to put a (refundable) deposit and reserve a bike/frame from the next batch, so it was a zero risk move, plus the reviews were very favorable.

I was concerned about the super steep STA and resulting short ETT in contrast with the long reach, but in practice the geometry works very well. I still needed some time to get used to it as it's much longer in wheelbase compared to my last ride.

141mm of travel doesn't sound like much, but the overall character of the bike leans a lot on the gravity side of things. It will take a coil if needed and is sold with one in the Ohlins build. It's a hefty beast so not the best on undullating terrain, but is otherwise a very efficient climber, mostly due to the responsive suspension and forward-biased seated position. The climb switch on the Float X firms things up, but isn't really necessary apart from very steep fire road climbs. I now tend to just leave it open. I've found myself pedalling up a couple of sections I had to push before. I've already done a few >40km days with more than 1200m of elevation and I feel like I can pedal all day on it. I feel I'd be confident taking it to a multi day event.

Going down it's very responsive despite the weight and length and encourages getting creative. It can easily follow full on enduro rigs, at least untill things get both too fast and too rough. There the geometry still keeps it manageable but lack of suspension becomes evident. It likes both natural terrain and man made flow. In fact I think I had one of my best riding days on the steep, bikeparky trails on a mountain a couple of hours away. It does like to be ridden with weight on the front and this required some cockpit experimentation and technique adjustment on my part. 

Stiffness will never be a concern at my weight, but this thing is built like a tank. The lower part of the seat tube is made up of two square shaped cast halves that are welded together. This part houses the BB and pivot axles and seems to be spine of the frame. The one piece rocker is significant in build as well. Cable routing is fully external apart from the dropper post and the rear derailler cable that goes through the chainstay. Guides keep everything neatly in place and I used a foam liner for the dropper cable to avoid rattling. Turns out it's a very quiet frame. Post insertion depth is excellent and the raw option both emphasizes the industrial look and gives me peace of mind when it comes to scratches etc.

I got mine as a frame and used parts I already owned, but if you go for a complete bear in mind that the stock Hunt Trail Wide wheels are on the light side and may not cope well with bike park and enduro races. Don't know if you will find any used 141's, but even as new they are well spec'ed for reasonable amounts of money. In my case the frame was cheaper than the next option by 400€ and included the headset, seat tube colar and their new chainstay protector. Float X shock is the performance elite and has rebound, low speed compression and two position climb switch.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Nurse Ben said:


> So many good choices these days, you best bet is to make a list of needs, thneeds, and icing.
> 
> For me, I value kinematics first, geo second, and quality/appearance/brand thirds.
> 
> ...


Yeah i kind of agree with that, suspension and geo are the most important. I would say a water bottle is pretty important for me, not a deal breaker but damn its convenient. I can not stand to have wear a back pack it jumps around and is hot as hell. Summers can get up to 90 degrees here even in the mountains I usually do big bottle on the bike then a bottle in a hip pack works pretty great and if you are spending the day in the bike park its nice to have water on tap. 

I have had a Giant trance, V3 nomad, 2018 Transition Patrol, Mysmuggler and the Supreme I have now so Ive tried a few different designs. 
I would always pick good geometry over more travel a 160mm bike with shitty geo is way sketchier in rough stuff than a 140mm bike with good geo. 

Had a hugey on my DH bike yesterday, busted up a couple ribs so will be off the bike for a couple weeks minimum so that should give me some more time to find something and also not feel as bad about selling the Supreme 😅


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Got a buddy wanting to sell a Norco Sight as well, so another one on my radar.


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## ocnLogan (Aug 15, 2018)

Austin-nc said:


> Had a hugey on my DH bike yesterday, *busted up a couple ribs* so will be off the bike for a couple weeks minimum so that should give me some more time to find something and also not feel as bad about selling the Supreme 😅


Condolences!

I broke a few ribs last year, and just attempting to get out of bed was excruciating. The 2nd day through about the beginning of the second week was by far the worst. Good luck on your recovery.

FWIW, I looked closely at the Norco Sight for a while. Its a really well reviewed bike, but it seems the shock is a bit undersized for "senders", or heavy riders. Its got a 185mm x 52.5mm stroke shock on it for 150mm of travel. In comparison, my Titan has a 205mm x 65mm stroke shock on it (12.5mm more shock stroke), for only 5mm more travel. Which means the Titan runs much lower air pressures, and is also harder to bottom out.

Also, I've now noticed that I'm pretty sensitive to stack height. And the Sight is on the lower side of average there, fwiw (it may not matter to you). But being an XL sized rider, I thought it was worth mentioning.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

ocnLogan said:


> Condolences!
> 
> I broke a few ribs last year, and just attempting to get out of bed was excruciating. The 2nd day through about the beginning of the second week was by far the worst. Good luck on your recovery.
> 
> ...


Yeah thanks for that after sitting at work today Im thinking I only bruised a couple, ive broke them before and it was much worse so hopefully just some bruised ribs and a stiff neck. 

I noticed thats the main complaint with the Norco is just a lackluster rear end suspension feel, it makes sense though it would probably be harder for a shock to work as good with such a small stroke for the travel. Hell the thing looks tiny on the bike when you see it even.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Need to throw the newest iteration of the Alchemy Arktos into the mix. Seriously awesome bike. Has a 150/170 option that has some very recent reviews out there from a couple online mags. I went 135/150 to replace my RipmoV2... its not as urgent pedaling (not far off tho!) but DH is better and the bike just feels way deeper and more confident for less travel front and rear!! For me its a brilliant brilliant bike at an amazing value for the builds. Interesting that w a link and & shock I can go to 150 - and a air spring for fork- travel change to 160/170 and a whole different bike. Take a look - boutique goodness, burly frame build, patented suspension that works and some well thought out engineering and flexibility.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

KennyWatson said:


> Agree on Bird as well, except the Aether 9 might be a little too "trail" and the Aeris might be a little too beastly.


I still see the 150 mm travel Aeris AM9 on their website. Although I think it's being replaced by the 160 mm travel Aeris 9.


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## nobody special (Jun 21, 2019)

So I live in roughly the same area as you (maybe further east in NC) and have a a Stumpjumper Evo, and a Commencal Meta AM, and ride both on XC trails, and local pedal up DH trails, and out at Beech / Sugar / Snowshoe. For me Beech / Sugar are a 3.5 hour drive from greater Raleigh area. Typical local XC ride is 10-30 miles and 80-200 feet/mile of climbing, depending on the trails.

You are overthinking the SJ Evo. Twenty years ago if someone told me I "would own a Specialzed and would think it is the best bike I've ever owned" I would have laughed at them and said something like "Specialized makes crap bikes", or equivalent. However, here I am 20 years later. The SJ Evo is faster on XC trails than both my Meta AM and my Jamis Komodo 29 hardtail. The SJ Evo climbs far better than the Meta and about the same as the Jamis. I can sprint smooth hills on the Jamis faster but as soon as the climb becomes technical, the SJ Evo is a far better performer. SJ Evo descends better than the Meta. The SJ Evo jumps better than the Meta. The SJ Evo turns better than the Meta. SJ Evo is lighter and has storage. When I first bought the SJ Evo I thought the swat box was a gimmik and figured I would never use it. At this point I stuff so much junk in the down tube I can't remember what I did before I had it, its like the dropper post of bike frames. I ride with my 11YO frequently so I always pack snacks and juice boxes and band aids, and extra stuff for both bikes, etc.

The low BB on SJ Evo is a real thing, but honestly, I reset my suspension to 18% front sag and 22% rear sag, and I don't have pedal strikes anymore. I run the Meta at 20% front and 25% rear so not too much different than the SJ Evo. I took advice from people on the internet at first and was running the SJ Evo sag at almost 30%, that is a mistake, 30% sag is too much for the SJ Evo. It rides better and jumps substantially better at low sag and corresponding rebound / damper settings. Set with 30% sag it was killing my hands and pedal striking multiple times every ride.

I put about 900 miles on SJ Evo since I bought it in Feb 2022 and it is a very easy bike to ride and does pretty much everything well. My Meta AM was my old trail bike and is now my park bike, but honestly, the SJ Evo is better at the bike parks, unless you plan to ride the double black diamonds all day long at full speed with no brakes. However, if you are selling your Supreme, that is probably not what you are doing. My Meta is an older 2019 model and I have about 3500 miles on it so I am very familiar with both bikes. MY son is almost tall enough to ride the Meta otherwise I would sell it. Next year the Meta will probably be his bike park machine, and I may buy him an SJ evo frame to swap all his Diamondback Release parts on to (he is almost grown out of the Release).

I bought the Expert but I looked hard at the Alloy Elite. If aluminum cracks, and you re-weld it, it just cracks again eventually. Been there and done that. Carbon can actually be repaired more easily. If you want the carbon repair to look pretty it is expensive. If you don't care how it looks, the carbon repair can be much cheaper.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Picard said:


> What about evolve bike? This is a good direct consumer brand bike
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908W using Tapatalk


Interesting. I've never heard of Evolve. Squamish based is somewhat close to me.

Their bikes look pretty interesting.


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## EVgEEk (Jan 8, 2015)

Austin-nc said:


> I noticed thats the main complaint with the Norco is just a lackluster rear end suspension feel, it makes sense though it would probably be harder for a shock to work as good with such a small stroke for the travel. Hell the thing looks tiny on the bike when you see it even.


I rented a Norco Sight for a few days on a riding trip to Pisgah. OMG it performed so well I was thinking of buying one. The only thing that held me back was that my home trails in Raleigh NC are much more mellow and determined the Sight was just too big of a bike for that area. I went with a RipmoAF, which has similar suspension numbers but very different riding feel.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

Well guys, I finally pulled the trigger on a bike.
2021 Trek Slash 9.8 XT Size Large, After doing a lot of geometry comparing to past and current bikes the Large is very close to most bikes that I am comfortable on, the XL is huge, especially since this bike will be seeing some tame XC type trails when I am going for short after work rides. I am 6'2" for reference.
Way more carbon than I prefer but I will most likely sell the wheels for some nice alloy and the original owner was a very nice guy that is more than happy to help with any frame warranties if needed, I got it for a pretty ridiculous price so I made compromises.

Here she is, should be in the mail tomorrow morning heading my way will update with ride report.


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## DGUSMC (Jan 29, 2021)

Austin-nc said:


> Well guys, I finally pulled the trigger on a bike.
> 2021 Trek Slash 9.8 XT Size Large, After doing a lot of geometry comparing to past and current bikes the Large is very close to most bikes that I am comfortable on, the XL is huge, especially since this bike will be seeing some tame XC type trails when I am going for short after work rides. I am 6'2" for reference.
> Way more carbon than I prefer but I will most likely sell the wheels for some nice alloy and the original owner was a very nice guy that is more than happy to help with any frame warranties if needed, I got it for a pretty ridiculous price so I made compromises.
> 
> ...


Nice! That set-up (size and geo) is very close to my 2019 Sentinel and with the cascade link on mine it’s a nice balance between pedal-ability, handling and being able to manage rougher stuff. Of note: the bb drop is similar also and I had to switch to 165mm cranks so depending on sag/how low the Slash sits in travel you may find you want shorter than the stock 175s.


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## ballisticexchris (Jun 14, 2016)

Very Very nice!! That Slash is not going to disappoint you. Very versatile machine. Do yourself a favor and play around with suspension settings and tire pressures. You can transform it into the perfect ride quality for whatever trail condition you encounter.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

justwan naride said:


> I was looking for a bike with similar design brief and ended up with a Privateer 141. Other bikes I was looking were the Orbea Occam LT, Ibis Ripmo AF, Commencal Meta TR, Marin Alpine Trail. I later rejected the Occam after reading that it's a bit more XC compared to the others. From the rest, most of them simply wouldn't be availiable for a long time in my size. Privateer offers the option to put a (refundable) deposit and reserve a bike/frame from the next batch, so it was a zero risk move, plus the reviews were very favorable.
> 
> I was concerned about the super steep STA and resulting short ETT in contrast with the long reach, but in practice the geometry works very well. I still needed some time to get used to it as it's much longer in wheelbase compared to my last ride.
> 
> ...


This is one of the best-written reviews on this site. Very clear and informative.


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## justwan naride (Oct 13, 2008)

Austin-nc said:


> Well guys, I finally pulled the trigger on a bike.


Congrats, she's a beauty! 

Don't rush to get rid of the carbon wheels, give them a try first. I'm firmly in the "don't need carbon" camp (monetary reasons mostly), but if possible do a back to back test against alu wheels because you might end up prefering the stiffness and direct feeling of the stock hoops.


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## weeksy950 (Jan 11, 2012)

Yeah that's spot on... i was about to say my Fuel was right in your ball-park for ideal... but the Remedy and Slash are also right there... Congratulations.


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## Austin-nc (Apr 18, 2018)

justwan naride said:


> Congrats, she's a beauty!
> 
> Don't rush to get rid of the carbon wheels, give them a try first. I'm firmly in the "don't need carbon" camp (monetary reasons mostly), but if possible do a back to back test against alu wheels because you might end up prefering the stiffness and direct feeling of the stock hoops.


Yeah, I think I am going to get an insert for the rear atleast, bike park season will last only another month then will probably put some lighter faster rolling tires on for all the trail duties then shop around in the winter for a somewhat descent alloy set and put some heavy sticky tires on them and use them for park duty.

Only Carbon thing im against is handlebars, 99% of people never have an issue but my wife snapped a set of SixC downhill bars last year and it was sort of scary until you find out where the broken off piece ended up when the dust settles (luckily she was still holding onto it). That being said I do have a set of Carbon Bars on my 120 travel trail bike but thats different than a bike that can do some serious speed and therefore crashes!


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