# loose headset?



## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

I'm building up a new on-one Inbred frame and run into this little problem with the headset (i think). It's a FSA Orbit XLII cartridge bearing headset. I pressed the cups in the frame with a proper tool, no problems, installed the bearings and other headset parts, spacers under the stem, the stem and more spacers on top. There is sufficient amount of spacers sticking out above the steerertube to tighten the headset but I just can't get it tight enough. I can tighten the headcap as tight as I can and there's still play in the headset. I've installed several headsets before and never ran into this problem so I'm a little confused.
Any one any suggestions?
The headset came packaged with a little black plastic ring that holds the lower bearing in the lower cup. Does that need to be installed too or is that just for shipping/packaging purposes? I installed it, do I need to take that out?
Hope I make some sense here and any help is appreciated.

Thanks.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

annoying crack said:


> There is sufficient amount of spacers sticking out above the steerertube to tighten the headset but I just can't get it tight enough.


Are you absolutely certain about having a sufficient amount of spacers? Because you're experiencing the classic sign of bottoming out the top cap on the steerer tube.



> The headset came packaged with a little black plastic ring that holds the lower bearing in the lower cup. Does that need to be installed too or is that just for shipping/packaging purposes? I installed it, do I need to take that out?


You've got me here. I'm not familiar w/your particular headset. Did a diagram or instructions come w/the headset? Have you looked on FSA's site for a diagram? I don't recall ever seeing a headset of any type come with a plastic retaining ring inside the lower cup.


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

JonathanGennick said:


> Are you absolutely certain about having a sufficient amount of spacers? Because you're experiencing the classic sign of bottoming out the top cap on the steerer tube.
> 
> You've got me here. I'm not familiar w/your particular headset. Did a diagram or instructions come w/the headset? Have you looked on FSA's site for a diagram? I don't recall ever seeing a headset of any type come with a plastic retaining ring inside the lower cup.


I'm absolutely sure that there are enough spacers. After my first try to adjust the headset, that was my first thought too. I added a 10mm spacer on top just to be sure there was enough room... same result.
I just tried and took out the little black bearing retainer... same result.
I am left looking at the bike and see nothing wrong at all. It just won't go tight and everything is in place.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

There's not many pieces to get wrong. The "little black bearing retainer" is probably the lower bearing seal and needs to be in there.

Here's the diagram if it helps...http://www.fullspeedahead.com/storage/insidetech/items/EN_0079bdb3-ec09-44e5-b7ba-50c5b6b487de_Orbit%20XL%20II.pdf


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

May need to face your headtube...


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## rockyuphill (Nov 28, 2004)

If you could post an "exploded view" photo of your headset/headtube/steerer with all the bits pulled apart so we can see the order and the arrangement of the pieces, that would give us a better idea of what might be happening

Things I've seen that cause the mystery wiggle: crown race installed upside down, not quite enough space between top of stem and inner lip on the headset top cap.


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

Ok, so I was sure that the headset was installed correctly so I figured that maybe because the headtube was not faced the paint was not letting the cups sit right. I knocked the cups out of the frame, removed the paint on the top and bottom of the headtube, reinstalled the headset/forks and... still the same thing!! I had always checked for a loose headset by keeping the front brake applied and rocking the bike back and forth. I finally decided it HAD to be something else. So, I checked by holding on to the bottom of the forks and the stem and to my horror, there was no play there? 
It could only be the front brake or wheel then. I checked all the brake hardware and everything was tight. Put in a new skewer in the wheel, reinstalled and still the same loose feeling? Finally, I put in a different wheel and EUREKA, solved. 
So, I got that solved but now I have a new question, where could the play in the wheel come from? It's build on XT hubs with centerlock disk. I checked the disk and it's on tight, bearing adjustment seems ok but it's hard to tell.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

FWIW, I have sometimes felt wobble from my tire tread squirming on the floor. 

If the problem went away with a new wheel, then I'd suspect bearing play, but you say you've checked for that. 

Not sure what else to suggest.


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

JonathanGennick said:


> FWIW, I have sometimes felt wobble from my tire tread squirming on the floor.
> 
> If the problem went away with a new wheel, then I'd suspect bearing play, but you say you've checked for that.
> 
> Not sure what else to suggest.


For the moment I'm just happy to have figured it out and finish the build. I can finally start riding the bike as soon as it stops pouring rain here.
I changed the tires over from one wheel to the other so it's not that. I guess it can only be play in the bearings, I'll look into that later... Thank you for the suggestions though. It's appreciated!


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Try putting the "bad" wheel in another bike..that would tell you if it's the wheel or not.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

annoying crack said:


> ...removed the paint on the top and bottom of the headtube, reinstalled the headset/forks and...


By the way, that's not facing the head tube.


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## Devinci luvr (Jul 26, 2009)

I have a rigid fork I use to check headsets. Just stick it through and see if there is play or pop a wheel on it as I find you can never really tell with shocks what is going on even turning the wheel sideways or against the wall.


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

bad mechanic said:


> By the way, that's not facing the head tube.


I know, but I don't have to tool to do so (more expensive then my frame!) and removing the paint was as close as I personally could get it.
Anyway, that was not the problem.


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## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? also, where did you get your frame from?


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## annoying crack (Jan 15, 2010)

fbabrove said:


> Did you ever figure out what the problem was? also, where did you get your frame from?


Yes I did, it was the wheel that I was using. there was nothing wrong with the headset or frame, the play came from the wheel. :madman:
I bought the frame from ON-ONE UK. I'm loving it, lots of singlespeed miles on it, even some touring. Will get geared up and get a front suspension fork put in it in a few weeks for a 2 weeks bikepacking tour.


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## fbabrove (Nov 9, 2011)

NIce, sounds awesome. I recently converted to a 1.9 setup, and I've got to say I am loving it. People complain about needing a chain guide system or something to keep the chain from jumping off, but I went with a single speed chain ring up front and haven't dropped a chain yet. Glad you are enjoying the bike.


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## ukuberv700 (Mar 26, 2011)

Check for play in the rivets on the centre lock disc? I have an XT CL disc which was giving some play and it turned out the rivets where moving ever so slightly! It's off the bike and a KCNC adapter with clean sweep disc in its place.


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