# method for tightening wheel with horizontal dropouts



## scn (Apr 25, 2006)

I wanted to find out what methods you guys use for tightening the rear wheel/keeping chain tension on a bike with horizontal dropouts without the use of chain tugs. I have a TOP and can pull the rear wheel back and tighten the nutted axle. It stays tight for a while but eventually slips forward letting the chain tension go too light. I tighten the nuts as much as I can with a regular length box wrench, so I could add some leverage to see if I can keep it from slipping... Obviously the wheel isn't slammed, but I like the current gearing and chain stay length I have set up.

Also, any methods for pulling the rear wheel straight back and keeping it centered between the chain stays? If I really crank on the wheel I usually get it off center some.

thanks all


----------



## XSL_WiLL (Nov 2, 2004)

You're probably using regular serrated flange nuts. Get a set of track nuts. It has a "floating-integrated" washer type dealy. The nut spins on the washer. You can put more torque on it and it is less likely to slip.

If it always pulls to one side, pull to the other side before tightening.

Is your chain new? If it is, it could just be that the chain is stretching.


----------



## scn (Apr 25, 2006)

Thanks for the reply. I am using a wheels manufacturing axle with the "problem solver" nuts that have the captive, or floating, washer, so maybe I just need to use my torque wrench to get some better leverage. It could be the chain stretching also, but its been ridden several times so I thought it was done with the initial stretch.

As for tightenting one side then the other, I'll need to work on that. I had tried it before and had the problem of not being able to adjust one side when the other was tight enough to hold the wheel in place. Might just need some more force. thanks again


----------



## markf (Jan 17, 2007)

is there a reason you can't or don't want to use a chain tug? i love mine, and had my nuts slip a couple times on my eastern despite a pretty long wrench and tightening them really really tight at the shop.


----------



## scn (Apr 25, 2006)

Well the drop outs on the Trail-or-Park are angled so chain tugs would need to be modified. It wouldn't be too difficult just a little grinding. I just thought it would be possible to get everything tight without them. Its not an issue with a slammed wheel so I could do that. Or just get some DMR tugs and grind them down to fit. But like I said, I like the current setup I have (minus having to tighten the wheel after every ride)


----------



## designmonkey (Nov 10, 2006)

Depending on how much space there is between the seat tube and the wheel, jam a tennis ball or rolled up towel in there, then tighten the wheel down. It holds it in place while you tighten the nuts. Works pretty good on my fixed-gear.


----------



## sittingduck (Apr 26, 2005)

Anything smaller than 14mm is real hard to keep from shifting. If I were you, I would try to rig up a chain tug.


----------

