# OneUp Dropper V2



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Just a place to post to differentiate models.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts/products/dropper-post-v2


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

So is the cable actuation the same as V1? ie the outer cable sheath is used to actuate the mech


----------



## Big AC (Oct 12, 2012)

OneUp,

Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.

Furthermore, some of your promo shots show the V2 on what looks to be a Megatower. Bottom line: is the V2 compatible with the Megatower?

Thanks.


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Big AC said:


> OneUp,
> 
> Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.
> 
> ...


Also interested to know the answer to this but for the Nomad 4. Why would it not be compatible?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Big AC said:


> OneUp,
> 
> Your webpage for the V2 states "Compatibility: not compatible with all low shock style Santa Cruz bicycles". Depending on how I read this it's either all lower link SC bikes are out, or only some are out.
> 
> ...





Snap4130 said:


> Also interested to know the answer to this but for the Nomad 4. Why would it not be compatible?


The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.

We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).

Sorry for any confusion.


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

...


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

OneUp said:


> The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.
> 
> We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).
> 
> Sorry for any confusion.


How does it work on frames that clamp the cable outer?

I'd seen some people mention it's the cable outer that actuates the post but just thought they had it set up wrong as it didn't make much sense.

Can you explain why the outer needs 4mm movement for it to work? Interested to know how it works, love the idea of a post with that much drop and considering whether to hold on until you get it sorted. I've just bought a Nomad 4 frame to build up and need a new post for it, do you know when the option will be available?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Snap4130 said:


> How does it work on frames that clamp the cable outer?
> 
> I'd seen some people mention it's the cable outer that actuates the post but just thought they had it set up wrong as it didn't make much sense.
> 
> Can you explain why the outer needs 4mm movement for it to work? Interested to know how it works, love the idea of a post with that much drop and considering whether to hold on until you get it sorted. I've just bought a Nomad 4 frame to build up and need a new post for it, do you know when the option will be available?


The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

FWIW: When WolfTooth came out with their cable remote conversion for the Reverb, which also uses the housing displacement, I mentioned to them that many SC CF frames would be a problem due to the way SC's internal dropper cable guide tube would constrain the housing/cable. They said they were sure it wouldn't be a problem.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Hopefully, there's a fix for the SC bikes. I was planning on replacing the stock Reverb on my Megatower with a 210mm OneUp post.


----------



## Big AC (Oct 12, 2012)

OneUp said:


> The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight that you can't get the 4mm of housing movement required for proper feeling operation. It is only SC bikes that we know to be a problem.
> 
> We are working on a retrofitable option that will be rolled in once available. The Megatower in the press release is testing that system (it belongs to our sales manager).
> 
> Sorry for any confusion.


Thanks for the information, is it possible to get a rough ETA for the retrofitable solution?



jeremy3220 said:


> Hopefully, there's a fix for the SC bikes. I was planning on replacing the stock Reverb on my Megatower with a 210mm OneUp post.


If I remember correctly for the MT thread you'll be on an XXL. As the distance from the exit of the tube in tube to the actuator of the post might be longer due to the length of the seat tube you might get enough slack to make it worth, might (even getting some slack in the housing might not solve the issue). Hopefully OU can get a working retrofitable solution out soon as a 210mm post on a XXL MT sounds great.


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

OneUp said:


> The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.


Thanks for explaining it. It's the Nomad 4 CC frame in XL that i have that i'm looking to get the dropper for, if you are able to confirm if it would work it would be much appreciated.


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

I want to know about the actuation in the V2 as well. I Just got a V1 post and honestly it actuates like trash compared to other droppers. The slack in the lever during use feels low quality. The whole point of housing is for the low friction movement of the cable within, not to move the housing.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

scyrway said:


> The whole point of housing is for the low friction movement of the cable within, not to move the housing.


It's all relative. If the housing isn't constrained such that the post end of the housing can move 4mm freely, there's no difference between thinking it's the cable moving in the housing or the housing moving on the cable, and low friction smooth movement between the housing and cable will have the same beneficial effect.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Lone Rager said:


> It's all relative. If the housing isn't constrained such that the post end of the housing can move 4mm freely, there's no difference between thinking it's the cable moving in the housing or the housing moving on the cable, and low friction smooth movement between the housing and cable will have the same beneficial effect.


Let me get this straight, you are advocating moving the housing vs. the cable? The housing goes through all sorts of ports, bends and touches the frame in multiple spots. This makes no sense at all if you are saying it's the same thing. The housing is there to allow the inner cable to move due to these realities.


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

Jayem said:


> Let me get this straight, you are advocating moving the housing vs. the cable? The housing goes through all sorts of ports, bends and touches the frame in multiple spots. This makes no sense at all if you are saying it's the same thing. The housing is there to allow the inner cable to move due to these realities.


 yep, housing actuation is just poor engineering.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

I'm not advocating anything. I'm describing how it works. Only the end of the housing at the post needs be able to move those mm and it is in most all cases. In those situations there's no difference between whether the cable or housing is doing the actuation. There're a few installations where that end of the housing isn't free to move, and those are the problem.

What needs to be remembered is that a housing a cable work in opposition to transfer motion and force.


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

The slack in my remote dropper until I sit on my post tells me the difference. Other posts don’t exhibit this when using cable actuation because housing holds static tension. I was able to have a slack free, less forceful operation with cable actuated droppers.


----------



## Gendy (Feb 24, 2018)

How can a housing move a few mm at the end, but otherwise be static?


----------



## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Lone Rager said:


> I'm not advocating anything. I'm describing how it works. Only the end of the housing at the post needs be able to move those mm and it is in most all cases. In those situations there's no difference between whether the cable or housing is doing the actuation. There're a few installations where that end of the housing isn't free to move, and those are the problem.
> 
> What needs to be remembered is that a housing a cable work in opposition to transfer motion and force.


Unless I'm not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless it's stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

incubus said:


> Unless I'm not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless it's stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are understanding correctly. The housing must shift. The "slack" is assuming there is a fixed point of holding at frame insertion. On my evil that is not the case, so the housing slides in and out of the dropper routing hole.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

incubus said:


> Unless I'm not understanding how this post works... if only the housing at the post end needs to move (as you say) unless it's stretching somehow, all of the housing has to move.


At the remote, the housing is fixed and the cable moves within it. At the dropper, the cable is fixed and the housing moves over it. The housing can be fixed along it's length until a final length/bend at the post end that will allow it move the necessary amount.

OK. Here's an example that might help illustrate this. If you loosen the cable pinch bolt on a rear derailleur and pull the housing and cable out an inch or so such that the housing is clear of the RD, then tighten the pinch bolt, the housing will move as you click the shifter. It'll move toward the RD shifting to a lower gear and away shifting to a higher gear while the RD and cable remain fixed.

Disclaimer: I have no feeling about this one way or the other. I'm not saying it's good or bad. I've installed systems like this (Wolftooth cable remote for Reverbs) and understand how they work. They work perfectly fine if the installation criteria are met.


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

This is fair, but I still posit the actuation is less refined than having the cable do the actuation and allowed the housing to be fixed.


----------



## sptimmy43 (Jul 27, 2018)

This finally made sense for me. The reason they did this is it shortens the overall length of the post. That is a major selling point of the OneUp dropper. Maximum drop from the shortest possible post.

The e13 post that I just replaced is actuated by the inner cable, not the housing. The e13 actuator is easily double the length of the OU actuator.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Big AC said:


> If I remember correctly for the MT thread you'll be on an XXL. As the distance from the exit of the tube in tube to the actuator of the post might be longer due to the length of the seat tube you might get enough slack to make it worth, might (even getting some slack in the housing might not solve the issue). Hopefully OU can get a working retrofitable solution out soon as a 210mm post on a XXL MT sounds great.


Yep, the XXL MT should be here Friday. That's a good point. I may take some measurements when the bike comes and contact OneUp.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

sptimmy43 said:


> This finally made sense for me. The reason they did this is it shortens the overall length of the post....


Good point. I hadn't thought of that wrt the Oneup dropper. In the case of the Wolftooth cable remote for the Reverb, the post needs to have the poppet pushed. Using the cable to actuate it would require a lever of some sort on the bottom of the post (like the BikeYoke Dehy) to reverse its action. Using the housing to push makes it simpler and shorter. IDK what goes on on the bottom of the Oneup dropper.


----------



## IAmHolland (Jul 8, 2010)

Wouldn't housing movement rub/wear the frame over time? At least any finish would probably show rubbing?


----------



## scyrway (Jul 21, 2016)

IAmHolland said:


> Wouldn't housing movement rub/wear the frame over time? At least any finish would probably show rubbing?


This is one of my concerns for sure. Carbon is piss poor at abrasion resistance.


----------



## burt2020 (Jan 22, 2019)

jeremy3220 said:


> Yep, the XXL MT should be here Friday. That's a good point. I may take some measurements when the bike comes and contact OneUp.


FWIW: I have a large V3 bronson with V1 170 dropper and wolftooth remote, there is room to spare in seat tube and its been flawless


----------



## unrooted (Jul 31, 2007)

Goddamn I wish I would have bought a OneUp post this summer instead of the POS Specialized post I have, Specialized doesn't even sell service kits for them anymore...

Will Oneup provide service kits for posts after you move onto other designs??? I can't believe companies are treating $350 seat posts like they are a disposable item.


----------



## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

unrooted said:


> Goddamn I wish I would have bought a OneUp post this summer instead of the POS Specialized post I have, Specialized doesn't even sell service kits for them anymore...
> 
> Will Oneup provide service kits for posts after you move onto other designs??? I can't believe companies are treating $350 seat posts like they are a disposable item.


That's exactly why I bought the Bikeyoke Revive. 3+ years later, I'm glad I did.


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ FWIW: The new Reverb has a revive feature. Not sure if that's only on the AXS version or not.


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

"Available mid June" https://int.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts

Dang. Maybe I'll get a v1 170mm as those are now discounted.


----------



## Sospeedy (Oct 17, 2014)

OneUp said:


> The SC low shock is the only frame where we've seen an issue. On that bike the housing exits the tube-in-tube 1-3" from the bottom of the post. Normally the 4mm is easily achieved with the tiniest bit of slack housing (even when the housing is clamped further away). We are actually double checking the Nomad 4 because we've have a bunch of people tell us it's fine. The Bronson and Megatower are definitely troublesome so we assumed the Nomad 4 too. I'll update here and online once we've confirmed.


Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if you've come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Sospeedy said:


> Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if you've come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!


I've also been waiting for an update on this.

I've been putting off buying a new dropper to see if the new OneUp posts would fit, but i need to get something sorted so if they're not compatible i might as well pick something different up instead of waiting.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Sospeedy said:


> Hi Oneup, just wanted to see if you've come to a conclusion on the Nomad 4? Thanks!


We'll have a new actuator design that will be available along side the V2 in a few weeks for all low slung SC bikes. The Nomad V4 by all accounts works with the current actuator.

Cheers.
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

OneUp said:


> We'll have a new actuator design that will be available along side the V2 in a few weeks for all low slung SC bikes. The Nomad V4 by all accounts works with the current actuator.
> 
> Cheers.
> Jon @ OneUp


Does the new actuator utilise only cable pull or is there still that little bit of outer sheath movement required?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

robmac48 said:


> Does the new actuator utilise only cable pull or is there still that little bit of outer sheath movement required?


Only cable pull with no actuator length increase...

It is only needed on SC frames so will be a free add-on (meaning you'll be two actuators) until a rolling change can be made. That means you'll need to install it but it is a 5 minute job.


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

OneUp said:


> Only cable pull with no actuator length increase...
> 
> It is only needed on SC frames so will be a free add-on (meaning you'll be two actuators) until a rolling change can be made. That means you'll need to install it but it is a 5 minute job.


Thanks for the extra info! Do you know when they will be available? Will the actuator for SC frames be included or something available separately?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Snap4130 said:


> Thanks for the extra info! Do you know when they will be available? Will the actuator for SC frames be included or something available separately?


It is free with the purchase of a V2 dropper by checking a box when you purchase but as I mentioned needs to be installed. It will also be available separately as a paid for service part.









It is not compatible with V1 posts.


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

What are the differences from V1 to V2 other than the reduced length?

I just bought a V1 from Worldwide on clearance and am pondering returning it and waiting for V2 if there are other improvements to be had.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

mnpikey said:


> What are the differences from V1 to V2 other than the reduced length?
> 
> I just bought a V1 from Worldwide on clearance and am pondering returning it and waiting for V2 if there are other improvements to be had.


UPDATES

Shortest total length of any dropper
Shortest stack height of any dropper
New upper DU Bushing in the upper collar 
Increased bushing overlap and durability
100-210mm post lengths in 10mm increments.
20g lighter


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Hi, @OneUP;
I need to order a remote for the V2, going with a WolfTooth. Is it still 'preferred' to use the regular remote or is the Light Action remote an option as well?
Thanks.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)




----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

majorjake said:


> Hi, @OneUP;
> I need to order a remote for the V2, going with a WolfTooth. Is it still 'preferred' to use the regular remote or is the Light Action remote an option as well?
> Thanks.


I'd recommend our V2 dropper lever. The updated remote has the same awesome lever position for ultimate thumb wrap and control but now has a more durable aluminum body and is available in 22.2, I-Spec EV, I-Spec II and MMX clamp options, for perfect integration with your brake lever at no extra cost. It is also just $49...

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-posts/products/dropper-post-remote


----------



## LowLow (Sep 18, 2007)

majorjake said:


> UPDATES
> 
> Shortest total length of any dropper
> Shortest stack height of any dropper
> ...


Does any of this mean that it'll cycle more smoothly and not bind easily at the seatpost collar? I'd like to get the 210mm one, but my 170mm one up has these issues.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

minimusprime said:


> been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!


Shipping on or before June 28th.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> been waiting for these to start shipping for a while. I've been told mid-late june a few times by my LBS. Getting impatient!


Same here...Looks like 180mm Drop posts came available today....I'm hoping for a 120mm post so hopefully they come available soon!


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Twiggy said:


> Same here...Looks like 180mm Drop posts came available today....I'm hoping for a 120mm post so hopefully they come available soon!


Where did you see the 180 available?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

majorjake said:


> Where did you see the 180 available?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


On the OneUp site (at least on the Canadian site)- its the only option that you can now add to your cart...and that's new as of today....I've been checking daily


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Twiggy said:


> On the OneUp site (at least on the Canadian site)- its the only option that you can now add to your cart...and that's new as of today....I've been checking daily


No love in the USA yet.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

The 120mm 30.9 Post that I was waiting for came in to stock today!....Ordered within 5 minutes of getting a notification email!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

A quick update. 

Canada. All droppers are live!

Worldwide. Droppers are enroute to our US/UK warehouses. They should be up for sale Between Jun 21-28.

Thanks for your patience. 

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

For the record, Canadian orders won't ship to the USA....


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

...


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

USA orders are up, btw.


----------



## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

OneUp, please consider an offset head post in the future. 

We Specialized dicontinuing the old offset head Command Post and 9.8 being...iffy, it would be nice to have more options for offset droppers.


----------



## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

How does the one up like the cold? Like im talking -35C?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

PHeller said:


> OneUp, please consider an offset head post in the future.
> 
> We Specialized dicontinuing the old offset head Command Post and 9.8 being...iffy, it would be nice to have more options for offset droppers.


I do not see us releasing an offset head. We really do not believe in it. In all but a few cases we run our seats slammed fully forward.

Thanks for the feedback however,
Jon


----------



## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

^^^ that's good for you guys, but customers with different physiological requirements, different bikes, doing different riding might prefer or even benefit from a rear offset post.

Of course practically speaking, it's purely a business cost/benefit consideration; does the sales potential justify the cost. 

For you guys slamming the saddles forward, turn the offset post around so you can use the middle of the rails, or maybe slam it even further forward!!!


----------



## SacAndrew (Mar 6, 2017)

OneUp said:


> ...


Are the 150mm versions for the US already sold out? I'd love to grab one.


----------



## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Just grabbed one of the 210mm for my GG Smash XXL...does this work with any cable actuated remote?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

SacAndrew said:


> Are the 150mm versions for the US already sold out? I'd love to grab one.


The first round is gone. More should be available in the next 1-3 days.



sirsam84 said:


> Just grabbed one of the 210mm for my GG Smash XXL...does this work with any cable actuated remote?


Any remote that clamps the cable at the lever.


----------



## SacAndrew (Mar 6, 2017)

OneUp said:


> The first round is gone. More should be available in the next 1-3 days.


Excellent. Patiently waiting and refreshing the page twice daily. 👍


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

My 210 dropper arrived today. Good news, it fits! (XL Kona Honzo ST)

Will be finishing my new build next week when the last parts come in. Pretty excited to learn how important the extra 40mm of drop is worth to me over my current 170mm I have on 2 other bikes, also both OneUp droppers. Also curious to see if there's any noticeable improvements in performance. Will report back once it's up and running.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

deleted


----------



## SacAndrew (Mar 6, 2017)

150's back in stock. Just grabbed mine.


----------



## timh (May 24, 2006)

Can anybody confirm if a 210mm dropper can be fully inserted in to a Bronson V3 XL?


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Installed the dropper tonight. Wasn't overly impressed with how it felt TBH. Going on my experience with two of the gen 1 droppers I unthreaded the collar, hit it with some Slick Honey, and cycled it. Immediate improvement. 

Jury is out on the lever and how the post actually functions in the wild, still finishing my build but I'll report back when I get some ride time on it.


----------



## Arseni (Jun 28, 2010)

OneUp said:


> The new low shock style Santa Cruz bikes have tube-in-tube dropper routing that is so tight...


I see there is a new v2.1 actuator kit, that works with lower-shock-santa-cruz bikes.

Can it be used with V1 dropper? Or is it only for V2 posts?


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

timh said:


> Can anybody confirm if a 210mm dropper can be fully inserted in to a Bronson V3 XL?


Not exactly what you asked, but i can confirm the post can be fully inserted in an XL Nomad v4.

Fitted my post a couple of days ago. Swapping to the 2.1 actuator took a little while as the 2 bolt holes for the small hex bolts hadn't been machined properly. Had to clean them up a bit before the bolts would thread.


----------



## kkaufmann (May 22, 2019)

Just got my 180 v2 and installed, I also had to slick honey it quite a bit to quiet a squeak on rise. I had to reposition the white bushing so the open gap part wasn't over one of the travel reducing channels. It would feel clicky/indexy if I didn't because the white bushing opening would catch ever so slightly in the channels. Overall the jury is out for me, going to keep riding and testing.


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

Arseni said:


> I see there is a new v2.1 actuator kit, that works with lower-shock-santa-cruz bikes.
> 
> Can it be used with V1 dropper? Or is it only for V2 posts?


Only v2. I think it was mentioned in this thread.

Got my 31.6 210mm yesterday. No problems swapping to the v2.1 actuator. The post works fine though little resistance if not pressing down perpendicular with the post e.g. from the tip of the saddle. Extra 90mm over my previous 120mm dropper is nice.

I did not see any shims with my post. The retail package was open and post sticking out. I hope I did not throw the shims away with the big box where retail box was packed. I ordered my post directly from Oneup UK site.


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

hece said:


> Only v2. I think it was mentioned in this thread.
> 
> Got my 31.6 210mm yesterday. No problems swapping to the v2.1 actuator. The post works fine though little resistance if not pressing down perpendicular with the post e.g. from the tip of the saddle. Extra 90mm over my previous 120mm dropper is nice.
> 
> I did not see any shims with my post. The retail package was open and post sticking out. I hope I did not throw the shims away with the big box where retail box was packed. I ordered my post directly from Oneup UK site.


My shims were in the smaller box the post was in at the very bottom.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Maybe I missed this....
I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
Can you do the same with upward travel?

For example, I currently have a 170mm dropper. I want it to drop all the way down.
But I actually need the post to only come up to 160mm area.
Does this post do that?


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

lardo5150 said:


> Maybe I missed this....
> I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
> Can you do the same with upward travel?
> 
> ...


Yes.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

lardo5150 said:


> Maybe I missed this....
> I see you can adjust how far the post travels down.
> Can you do the same with upward travel?
> 
> ...


That is correct. Shimming the post reduces the travel as well as the total length.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

My 30.9 120mm Travel post cam in at 434g, exactly 1g below claimed. Super happy with that as its going on my RM Element that I'm trying to keep as light as possible.

Haven't gotten out on a ride on it yet, but first impressions are positive on the post. I'm a bit less certain how I feel about the ergonomics of the lever, which I feel could maybe be improved.


----------



## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Been using the 210mm post in my XL Nomad V4 this weekend and it's been fantastic! For anyone tall it's a game changer.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Ok 3 rides now with the 210mm w/ wolftooth lever and jag wire dropper pro kit on my L Nomad 4 and it’s pretty awesome. It is a little harder to get it to drop if any amount of weight is on the seat when using the lever (wolftooth). The lever will be extremely hard and won’t really activate the post and I don’t want to push harder as it doesn’t feel right (damage the housing or cable etc). It seems to be getting better each ride so maybe some break in required but I think the reverb was better in this one specific area example would be seated climbing and coming up to a tech section and wanting to drop the seat about an inch for a little more clearance/maneuverability. The reverb you could just stay seated pedaling and drop the seat, the oneup you have to stand punch the lever and then lower. It’s getting better though. Downhill I’m still not sure if I want it at 210 or 200, I went to a steeper place over the weekend but was having an off weekend and riding like total crap so I didn’t even try to clear some of the zones that I wouldn’t ever do with the 170. I see now Santa Cruz specs a 175 crank for sizes M-XXL when I got mine they only used 170, those extra 5 woulda been nice to have to keep the seat lower.

All in all great post so far and finally something for us taller riders.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Ok 3 rides now with the 210mm w/ wolftooth lever and jag wire dropper pro kit on my L Nomad 4 and it's pretty awesome. It is a little harder to get it to drop if any amount of weight is on the seat when using the lever (wolftooth).


Is it the regular or LA lever? The resistance when seated is typical of any similar hydraulics (Bike Yoke, RF, etc). You should just need a slight unweight (not full stand) to significantly reduce the force.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Regular lever.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Just want to confirm what I have been reading as I am considering this post.

The V1, the housing for the cable actually moved to actuate the dropper.

The V2, only the cable inside the housing moves.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

lardo5150 said:


> Just want to confirm what I have been reading as I am considering this post.
> 
> The V1, the housing for the cable actually moved to actuate the dropper.
> 
> The V2, only the cable inside the housing moves.


If you get the V2 with the optional 2.1 actuator (Santa Cruz loser shock option) then that is correct. The V2 stock currently is the same as the V1.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Regular lever.


That would be why. Our lever (and the LA) have significantly more leverage.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

OneUp said:


> That would be why. Our lever (and the LA) have significantly more leverage.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Hmm wolftooth has the regular as the recommended for your post so that what I went with. It appears to work ok just stiff when weighted but as you said if I remove the weight then it works fine.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Hmm wolftooth has the regular as the recommended for your post so that what I went with.


I'll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.

Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

OneUp said:


> I'll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.
> 
> Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.


by chance do you know the leverage ratio for the WT LA remote?

i've had the WT LA remote since it was released and used it with my 9point8 and oneup v1 dropper. i recently switched to the new oneup aluminum remote on my oneup v1 dropper and actually like it better. it's definitely easier to actuate.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

useport80 said:


> by chance do you know the leverage ratio for the WT LA remote?
> 
> i've had the WT LA remote since it was released and used it with my 9point8 and oneup v1 dropper. i recently switched to the new oneup aluminum remote on my oneup v1 dropper and actually like it better. it's definitely easier to actuate.


Thanks! We're stoked with the underbar position. It means you can actuate without having to unwrap your thumb from your grips.

Again only going from photos the WT LA looks to be about 3.5:1 and the PNW Loam Lever looks to be about 3.2:1 (assuming the press is mid paddle).


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

any coupon code for OneUp


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

OneUp said:


> I'll ping those guys to have that updated. The regular lever looks to have about a 2.5:1 leverage ratio (estimated from their photo). The OneUp lever is 4:1.
> 
> Out of curiosity why did you go with WT and pay extra for housing rather than use the OneUp lever? Our V2 lever in dialed.


At the time the one up lever was plastic and I got a discount code at sea otter for the wolf tooth. Also all reviews like the wolf tooth a lot. As for the housing kit it is jagwire a new one specific for droppers with a smaller cable OD (.8mm) and supposedly a more flexible housing. Just trying to make it as smooth and hydraulic like as possible while keeping cable reliability.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Speaking of levers, I get that OneUp would want us to use theirs, but to save money and time, could I just use my Reverb 1x remote that is there, and just swap out the post?
Or will there be issues there?


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

I went with the PNW Loam Lever over the OneUp remote because I had the V1 remote and that ridge pattern on the thumb pad was way too aggressive (painful). I don't really understand why dropper remotes need extra grip. I was fine with the smooth finish reverb 1x lever.

Also, the PNW lever is super short using the Sram matchmaker adaptor. Even with my freaky long thumbs it's hard to reach.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

I'm using a LA WT remote, coming from a Transfer post/remote.

The weight is good, not too stiff. The throw is a bit longer, might just need to find that sweet spot.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

majorjake said:


> I'm using a LA WT remote, coming from a Transfer post/remote.
> 
> The weight is good, not too stiff. The throw is a bit longer, might just need to find that sweet spot.


Don't think I'd mind more throw since the Reverb I'm familiar with on the x1 lever you need to bottom it out before the post would move, the WT standard I think begins to activate with not much throw (at least in the going up direction). More just trying to get a smoother operation and if possible be able to activate it with even a little weight on the seat, currently you can not push the lever if any weight is on at all. In fact the cable will slip in the lever before it will activate the post so I'm not real confident a longer lever is going to solve that.

I think I will give the new oneup a go since I have the WT all the way rotated to move the lever more under the bar (SRAM matchmaker) and could use it a bit more still.


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

Does anyone know the leverage ratio of the fox transfer lever? I'm really liking the 210 post so far!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

lardo5150 said:


> Speaking of levers, I get that OneUp would want us to use theirs, but to save money and time, could I just use my Reverb 1x remote that is there, and just swap out the post?
> Or will there be issues there?


Isn't a reverb hydraulic actuated?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Shadow4eva said:


> Isn't a reverb hydraulic actuated?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


bah, I think you are right. Crap.
Was trying to save 50 bucks.


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

lardo5150 said:


> bah, I think you are right. Crap.
> Was trying to save 50 bucks.


Yeah, lol... Anyways, a reverb *can* be cable actuated, but it requires the ReMote Sustain kit from WolfTooth.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Guy.Ford (Oct 28, 2009)

...


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Guy.Ford said:


> Hey @Oneup, what is the service like for the V2, same deal as the V1? Will there be a new instructions or will the old V1 instructions apply?
> 
> Thanks


A lot of it is very similar but we're trying to have more procedures documented as well as better assembly docs and service part availability.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## tuskenraider (Sep 9, 2012)

Tried fitting a 150 v2 on my medium Ripley V2 today and was happy to think I could get it to work with 140mm travel, but it all went sideways after attaching the cable to my standard Wolf Tooth lever. It was binding really bad. Checked the setup multiple times and I'm guessing the post was not happy with the cable angle from the bottom of the post to the exit port of the frame. I pretty much had the post slammed in the seat tube as far as it would go, but the port had to be at least 3-4 inches below the post. Pulling up the post 2-3 inches returned the action to what I assume was "normal", but it was still a short throw that took quite a bit of effort. I was almost wondering if the Santa Cruz option would handle this situation better, but having to seemingly buy another high leverage lever to lighten things up has made me abandon that idea. 3 hours and two wasted cables and it was back to the Bike Yoke 125mm.


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

tuskenraider said:


> I was almost wondering if the Santa Cruz option would handle this situation better, but having to seeming have to buy another high leverage lever to lighten things up has made me abandon that idea.


Yes, v2.1 actuator option would have helped. I can see how for v2.1 the light action WT lever is better as the post is quite firm to operate even with LA. I did not try the stock v2 actuator but swapped for v2.1 before installing the post.


----------



## cakemonster (Sep 30, 2012)

Have a new size small Nomad for my son and the Reverb that comes with it will not go into the frame all the way. He needs it in further, and would like to get rid of Reverb anyway.

Does the Nomad need the V 2.1 (not housing actuator) or just other models? (I see what it says on the site, but on this forum folks note the nomad/strega is OK).

Is the insertion length as short for the V 2.1 as the 2.0?

Does the V 2.1 work as well as the 2.0?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

cakemonster said:


> Have a new size small Nomad for my son and the Reverb that comes with it will not go into the frame all the way. He needs it in further, and would like to get rid of Reverb anyway.
> 
> Does the Nomad need the V 2.1 (not housing actuator) or just other models? (I see what it says on the site, but on this forum folks note the nomad/strega is OK).
> 
> ...


I'd recommend the V2.1 if it is fully slammed into the frame. The length is the same and the V2.1 will be smoother if space is limited.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Ok so downieville ride today and post was better than it ever has been. So I’ve come to the conclusion the 2.1 actuator needs grease! All the pins etc are assembled dry and after 2 rides mine started squeaking and feeling notchy/indexy. I took it back apart and dunked it in marine grease and worked all the pivots etc and wiped most the excess off (left some as water proofing). Today the post was great, you can still feel the detent in the lever from closed to open but no where near as bad and honestly the wolf tooth regular is acceptable now. I already have the oneup coming and I think I’ll mock mount it up and if the lever position feels better I’ll give it a go, if not I’ll look in to a return.

OneUp you guys should have the factory slap some lube on the pivot pins during assembly the actuator really needs it.


----------



## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

OneUp said:


> I do not see us releasing an offset head. We really do not believe in it. In all but a few cases we run our seats slammed fully forward.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback however,
> Jon


...Sounds like there's a need for a FORWARD OFFSET head! 9.8 released their forward offset option a few months back, however it is only available for their newest R line which tops out at 150mm travel.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> ...Sounds like there's a need for a FORWARD OFFSET head! 9.8 released their forward offset option a few months back, however it is only available for their newest R line which tops out at 150mm travel.


Am I not understanding, looking at their site, it says offset back, not forward.
Forward would mean you get 25mm more room to push the seat forward right?


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Ok OneUp I got back to town and my remote has shown up. I’ve just test for it and this is not going to work for me. The lever is hitting my thumb, I have it as far inboard as possible and I run my brake levers further in than most people I know (sram matchmaker). So am I able to return this? It’s too bad, it’s a clean design but I think the whole lever needs to be moved further inboard. I can’t imagi anyone would run it in the furthest out position since the furthest in already has the lever sitting over the grip.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Ok OneUp I got back to town and my remote has shown up. I've just test for it and this is not going to work for me. The lever is hitting my thumb, I have it as far inboard as possible and I run my brake levers further in than most people I know (sram matchmaker). So am I able to return this? It's too bad, it's a clean design but I think the whole lever needs to be moved further inboard. I can't imagi anyone would run it in the furthest out position since the furthest in already has the lever sitting over the grip.


If you need to run it further inboard, you'd likely be better off with a 22.2mm clamp. Hit us up at [email protected]. I'm sure we can work something out.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Question on remote. I want to get the 120mm post as I need the low stack height. Problem is bike has shock/fork lockout mounted on the lower left bar where the oneup remote mounts (orbea oiz tr). Right now remote lever is a perpendicular to ground lever that fits right next to grip. Is there another remote lever with cable clamp that works with oneup that will fit with shock lockout?

I guess the shorter question...is there a 2x compatible lever for the oneup?


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

OneUp said:


> If you need to run it further inboard, you'd likely be better off with a 22.2mm clamp. Hit us up at [email protected]. I'm sure we can work something out.


I'm not really looking to go that route it kind of defeats the purpose of a clean direct mount. I'll email about my options for a return if possible (it has not been used and no markings). Build quality is good and I like that there is no play in the lever and the cable is covered from view (makes it look cleaner) but I'm really surprised how far in the lever is. I would think the length should end up the same position as the shifter lever on the other side (or at least error shorter so your thumb doesn't hit) but unfortunately that isn't the case. The oneup remote in the furthest in position still has the lever overlapping the grip whereas the right side shift has about a 1/8-1/4 gap between. This causing two issues, one your thumb hits and two you have to swing your thumb around the bottom and then up in order to press the lever. All in all it's not what I would expect, build quality is good but ergonomics is far off.


----------



## lankycrank (Mar 4, 2019)

Jesse Hill said:


> I'm not really looking to go that route it kind of defeats the purpose of a clean direct mount. I'll email about my options for a return if possible (it has not been used and no markings). Build quality is good and I like that there is no play in the lever and the cable is covered from view (makes it look cleaner) but I'm really surprised how far in the lever is. I would think the length should end up the same position as the shifter lever on the other side (or at least error shorter so your thumb doesn't hit) but unfortunately that isn't the case. The oneup remote in the furthest in position still has the lever overlapping the grip whereas the right side shift has about a 1/8-1/4 gap between. This causing two issues, one your thumb hits and two you have to swing your thumb around the bottom and then up in order to press the lever. All in all it's not what I would expect, build quality is good but ergonomics is far off.


Why not just swap the matchmaker pieces from left and right? Your dropper and shifter levers will move further inboard without affecting the brake position.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

lankycrank said:


> Why not just swap the matchmaker pieces from left and right? Your dropper and shifter levers will move further inboard without affecting the brake position.
> View attachment 1264667


I don't think the shift one matches up to the one up body also I have no issue on my right side so I'd have to go buy another right side matchmaker. A lot of hassle to make it work when I could just use the wolftooth I already have or add the LA lever for 20.00. I was interested in the lower thumb position of the oneup and longer leverage but seems the geometry is off (IMO). Like I said I'm surprised they'd have it that far outboard even in the furthest in position, if anyone used the furthest out position the lever would be halfway into their grip.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> I don't think the shift one matches up to the one up body also I have no issue on my right side so I'd have to go buy another right side matchmaker. A lot of hassle to make it work when I could just use the wolftooth I already have or add the LA lever for 20.00. I was interested in the lower thumb position of the oneup and longer leverage but seems the geometry is off (IMO). Like I said I'm surprised they'd have it that far outboard even in the furthest in position, if anyone used the furthest out position the lever would be halfway into their grip.


Hello Jesse,

Our position is very similar to the Reverb - See below. I has also going to suggest picking up a RH MMX adapter. They are compatible directly with the OneUp lever (One of our team riders does this for his Reverb 1X).


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Hello Jesse,
> 
> Our position is very similar to the Reverb - See below. I has also going to suggest picking up a RH MMX adapter. They are compatible directly with the OneUp lever (One of our team riders does this for his Reverb 1X).
> 
> View attachment 1264729


coming off a reverb I'd


















have to disagree with that finding. Ruler is a little crooked but not that far off and hand position is/was same, lever was never removed so lever position is 100% consistent. Like I said nothing wrong with the build quality but the ergonomics are a no go for me. its maybe like the length of the lever on the reverb got copied but the oneup being straighter (straight line = longer distance) didn't get taken into account.


----------



## useport80 (Mar 6, 2008)

this is what mine looks like.


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

How the heck do you remove a saddle from this post without having to fully remove the 2 bolts holding the rail clamps together? Never seen a seatpost that is so difficult to simply remove the saddle from it (unless I'm doing it wrong)?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

mnpikey said:


> How the heck do you remove a saddle from this post without having to fully remove the 2 bolts holding the rail clamps together? Never seen a seatpost that is so difficult to simply remove the saddle from it (unless I'm doing it wrong)?


The drop rail system does make it a little trickier but it is simple once you know how. The nice thing is that your saddle will be at the same angle because you never loosen the front bolt.

Remove
- Fully remove the rear bolt
- Tilt the saddle nose down
- Remove the lower clamp
- Remove the saddle from the upper clamp
- Remove the Upper clamp

Install
- front bolt and nut should still be attached to the post
- Slide the upper clamp onto front nut 
- Install seat to the upper clamp
- Slide the lower clamp under the seat rails
- Install the rear bolt

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Like I said nothing wrong with the build quality but the ergonomics are a no go for me.


Of course you can return it if you like but I'd recommend asking your LBS for a RH MMX adapter. There is likely to be one lying around.

Jon


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

OneUp said:


> Of course you can return it if you like but I'd recommend asking your LBS for a RH MMX adapter. There is likely to be one lying around.


Here is the RH MMX for $19 but I'm sure it could be had for a beer at your LBS.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...shift-bracket-fits-elixir-cr-elixir-mag-x0-xx


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

OneUp said:


> Here is the RH MMX for $19 but I'm sure it could be had for a beer at your LBS.
> 
> https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...shift-bracket-fits-elixir-cr-elixir-mag-x0-xx


what does this do? shift the lever over to the right?


----------



## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

lardo5150 said:


> what does this do? shift the lever over to the right?


It just mounts the remote further inboard compared to the left hand version.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Looking for more reviews on this dropper.
Besides the Reverb, ths is the only dropper that I can slam and still adjust to the right height.

So if anyone has the v2 installed, would love your opinion on it after you have put it through the ringer


----------



## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Curious how the operation of this post feels compared to the V1. The V1 is basically grindy feeling throughout it's travel (with the upper bushing and collar unscrewed it feels this same) compared to a Bikeyoke and a KSLev I have tried that just feel smooth and a PNW components that is smoother (but not Bikeyoke level smooth)

Is the V2 smoother in operation than the V1?


----------



## kkaufmann (May 22, 2019)

cassieno said:


> Curious how the operation of this post feels compared to the V1. The V1 is basically grindy feeling throughout it's travel (with the upper bushing and collar unscrewed it feels this same) compared to a Bikeyoke and a KSLev I have tried that just feel smooth and a PNW components that is smoother (but not Bikeyoke level smooth)
> 
> Is the V2 smoother in operation than the V1?


I had v1 (returned due to stiction) and now have v2 180mm. I've used v2 with both the regular and LA Wolftooth levers. I will say after applying a generous amount of slick honey under the collar and installing the different actuator (v2.1), my operation has been smooth for the last several weeks. I will say, the actuation using the v2.1 actuator is much better compared to the one that comes with it. Reason being, the one that comes with it from the factory would stick or be hard to actuate the first time after no use, but I don't have that problem with the v2.1 actuator. Lastly, I know you didn't ask, but the LA lever over the regular Wolftooth lever is much smoother/gentle on the thumb. It has a higher leverage ratio than the regular.


----------



## Twiggy (Feb 18, 2004)

Thus far I've been 95% happy with my OneUp V2 Dropper.... Its light, actuates easily, and returns predictably... my one complaint is that after ~3 rides mine is already developing side-to-side play :S ...luckily, not enough to notice while riding though.


----------



## pvd (Jan 4, 2006)

I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.

OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

pvd said:


> I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.
> 
> OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs


Great write up! Thanks.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

kkaufmann said:


> I had v1 (returned due to stiction) and now have v2 180mm. I've used v2 with both the regular and LA Wolftooth levers. I will say after applying a generous amount of slick honey under the collar and installing the different actuator (v2.1), my operation has been smooth for the last several weeks. I will say, the actuation using the v2.1 actuator is much better compared to the one that comes with it. Reason being, the one that comes with it from the factory would stick or be hard to actuate the first time after no use, but I don't have that problem with the v2.1 actuator. Lastly, I know you didn't ask, but the LA lever over the regular Wolftooth lever is much smoother/gentle on the thumb. It has a higher leverage ratio than the regular.


Is the v2.1 actuator just for Santa Cruz or is there a benefit for any bike?


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall. 

I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.

Post fully inserts into a Guerrilla Gravity Size 3 frame.

In comparison to my V1 post, the V2 post feels tighter (bushing, overlap?), the actuation mechanism is lower profile and seems to hold the housing and cable more securely. Clamping mechanism is unchanged.

Excellent function, low price, shortest insert.

Edit: @ Svinyard: I tried to PM, but your inbox is full 

"I had occassional stiction with V1, but only on my Revved Shred, it never happens on my Fezzari, and I don't remember it happening on my aluminum Smash.

I found the V1 to be very sensitive to seat post clamp pressure and at times it would get sticky when the weather was hot and dry; I live in the desert, so yeah, that sucks.

Adding more PSI and keeping the seat post clamp loose were helpful.

The V2 is much more powerful on the return and it did not seem to have any stiction when I clamped down the seat post clamp.

It's still early, maybe ask again in September 

That said, for $200, damn you get a super long post that doesn't wiggle and it holds the seat tight, hard to beat that even with the occasional stiction; every post I've owned has had issues with return."


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall.
> 
> I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.
> 
> ...


Any play (wiggle) in the seat?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Nurse Ben said:


> Just installed a One Up V2 210mm post, it replaced a One Up V1 170mm post, swap was supper simple, just loosen the cable at the lever, swap posts, and reinstall.
> 
> I'm using a short Wolf Tooth lever, works fine, plenty of leverage.
> 
> ...


thanks man, sounds like a winner! I just ordered up a 210mm (I'm 6-4) to replace my 170mm. I have a few bikes in the family and can put the 170mm V1 to use with shorter people (shimming is sure nice about now for that). Stoked to get the big drop!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

pvd said:


> I just did a little write up about the OneUp V2 seatpost. It looks to be a pretty good product. I hope it's useful.
> 
> OneUp 210 | Peter Verdone Designs


Great write-up. Definitely some tidbits we'll consider for the future.

Regarding the oversized pin kits, they should be available in all stores in a week or so. There is some play by design (like all droppers). With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding. The kit is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific application.

"If it's a cartridge similar to the KS LEV, then there's a lot of room for internal adjustments. If it's truly factory sealed cartridge, then it may require replacement when that time comes." - The cartridge can be opened with relatively standard tools (for a suspension shop). We chose to not recommend service as we do not have service centers worldwide. Instead, we sell the cartridge with very little markup. Disassembly is not recommended and would be completed at ones own risk but it is certainly possible.

"This post uses a 3mm rod and I had some 3mm titanium stock on hand" - This is my favourite line.

In retrospect we were light of instructions for the V1 and are looking to improve that.

Thanks PVD and everyone on this forum for your support and feedback.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Does the v2 post have "play"? Does the seat wiggle?


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Also want to ask about these oversized pins to remove play. What are these and where do you get them I don't see them on the site


----------



## MXIV424 (May 30, 2018)

I found this thread last night and headed to Jenson's today to buy it. I was sold with the 210mm drop in such a short overall package. It indeed fits my Intense ACV in XL no problem. While I don't posses the creative writing skills of some here (or a supply of precious metal stock in metric sizing haha), here's my take.

Good:

-210mm drop
-Doesn't wiggle or move or creak or make any noise 
-Doesn't feel flimsy at all
-Really decent MSRP

Bad:

-The mating of the lever and the housing is way too tight and will take considerable time to wear in. I had to loosen the hex bolt holding the lever to the housing and hit it with red loctite with no torque on it. I may pull the lever off the housing it and dremel it a bit to smooth it out, but without doing one of those things, it wouldn't release the lever enough to lock the post out. 
-it's leaving an oil ring near the top of the post when depressed and released again. The other reviews mentioned it needed extra grease, but mine will be collecting dirt there. I'm hoping that residual grease goes away after some use.

Second picture is the lever stuck open. I was trying to show the finish wearing off as it works itself in but couldn't really get it.

Overall, I'm happy.


----------



## tirrorex (Aug 4, 2018)

Could someone please confirm that the dropper v2 210mm will fit a nomad 4 XL frame ?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

lardo5150 said:


> Also want to ask about these oversized pins to remove play. What are these and where do you get them I don't see them on the site


They should be in stock in a few days.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit-1









All dropper posts require key way clearance. With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding. The kit is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific bike.

Start with the 3 pins marked with 2 lines. If play still exists move to the 3 pins marked with 4 lines.


----------



## lardo5150 (Oct 20, 2014)

Hey Oneup, if the post were to develop sag, is there a release valve or do you have to do maintenance on the post?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

lardo5150 said:


> Hey Oneup, if the post were to develop sag, is there a release valve or do you have to do maintenance on the post?


Replacement cartridges are $60 (less than a reverb service) and covered by warranty for two years.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

tirrorex said:


> Could someone please confirm that the dropper v2 210mm will fit a nomad 4 XL frame ?


I have a 210 in a large and it barely fits at full drop, my dad has it in an XL and fits with no issue and room to drop lower.


----------



## Douglas25 (May 24, 2012)

Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.


----------



## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Just got my 210mm in and just confirming that it does not go all the way into my Large 2019 Patrol. The insert length is 297mm, which is almost exactly where the bend in the seat-tube is, and that leaves about 50mm of post sticking out. However, it fits perfectly to my leg length unshimmed. If I had went 180mm, I would have an extra 30mm of post sticking out but with the option to slam it all the way into the frame if needed.

More just a PSA if anyone wants to put one on their Patrol.


----------



## tirrorex (Aug 4, 2018)

Jesse Hill said:


> I have a 210 in a large and it barely fits at full drop, my dad has it in an XL and fits with no issue and room to drop lower.


Awesome thanks mate


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Douglas25 said:


> Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.


What is your collars torque? Maybe its not the post but the seat post collar is too tight. I'd try it at 5nm...maybe 4nm if you have too. Keep us posted.

Of course you can unscrew the post's collar and dump some slick honey under that collar too.


----------



## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Just got my 210mm in and just confirming that it does not go all the way into my Large 2019 Patrol. The insert length is 297mm, which is almost exactly where the bend in the seat-tube is, and that leaves about 50mm of post sticking out. However, it fits perfectly to my leg length unshimmed. If I had went 180mm, I would have an extra 30mm of post sticking out but with the option to slam it all the way into the frame if needed.
> 
> More just a PSA if anyone wants to put one on their Patrol.


Just a follow up: Rode the bike last night on a variety of trails. Hit a jump line and the jumps are perfect, as the seat doesnt hit me in the air anymore. Climbs are also great - did 2100ft up in about 2 miles, and the ability to set the angle of the seat down even further is a huge win (and comfortable). The descent back down also kept the seat out of the way. Huge thumbs up from me.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Just a follow up: Rode the bike last night on a variety of trails. Hit a jump line and the jumps are perfect, as the seat doesnt hit me in the air anymore. Climbs are also great - did 2100ft up in about 2 miles, and the ability to set the angle of the seat down even further is a huge win (and comfortable). The descent back down also kept the seat out of the way. Huge thumbs up from me.


Isn't it awesome being tall and finally able to get the seat out of the way! Been wanting this ever since the reverb 125, then lev 150 wasn't enough and then reverb 170 was getting closer and now finally 210 (200 would probably be fine as well) and I can finally have the seat the same as my DH bike. Rode some steeper loose terrain today that I'd normally probably not ride and while still intimidating rolling into it once on the decent it is so much better. Now I just have to realize steep terrain won't be so bad anymore, have to break old habits/fears.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Douglas25 said:


> Does anyone have problems with there's not returning all the way? Just installed mine today and seems like it won't return the last inch.


Any update to this Douglas. Did you get it figured out? Was it a grease issue or something else? Looking forward to my 210 this week and the new design


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Got the v2 210mm w/ 2.1 actuator installed. No big rides yet but its definitely nice. I still have a v1 170mm that I'm putting on the wife's bike I think. The IGUS bushing, after bedded in, is a nice improvement on the v1 so far.

v2 is noticeably improved in a few areas. It comes up quickly at 275psi (same PSI as my v1) and doesn't show any signs of slowing near the top despite my post being clamped only 1in from the post's collar. I do have it clamped at around 3.5nm/4nm or so. I'm ok with that pressure so far. One thing I noticed is that the post doesn't require much, if any unwieghting to actuate it. I also had to lean on my v1 a fair amount to just push it down with my hand, this goes down more easily with less force. The cable pull actuation is easier to do than my v1 that used the housing. Its noticeably easier actuate at the lever. Not earth shattering but nice and feels good. Barrel adjustment removes any unwanted play. 

I really like that the post drops easily with my weight alone (no bounce required) and is easier to mash the lever...yet still comes up fast with a nice thwack. Even when its just down an inch or so it comes back aggressively which is a good sign.

Install was really easy once I got the original v1 off. The 2.1 actuator install was simple too, tho using a 15mm socket on the actuator's head alone was a bit odd at first (there is no socket interface on the 2.1 actuator). It was fine tho and worked at 5nm. As someone else suggested, I did add a bit of grease to the actuator. Once installed, it made a little creaking noise when actuated but after using it for 15mins or so it was unnoticeable after breaking in. No clunking or clicking etc, just a smooth actuation. I put a little slick honey under the collar just incase it was dry from sitting. 

The length is SUPER nice lol. I'm 6-4 and can see why you normal sized guys enjoy the 170mm/180mm posts. It gets everything out of the way. Easy to hop on the bike as well whilst being on the hill. For me it doesn't drop TOO much either; I can pedal a bit still with it entirely dropped without feeling like my knees are popping loose.

Nevertheless, a great purchase so far. Its real nice and not "just for the money" either. The updates close the gap for me between some of the other $$$ models like BikeYoke assuming everything stays tip-top. The extra length is undeniably awesome and a hot setup for us taller guys/gals.


----------



## LowLow (Sep 18, 2007)

I finally installed my 210mm OneUp dropper using the 2.1 actuator. I haven't ridden it yet but when I cycle it up and down with my hand, there is some noise in the dropper body, almost like something is loose or moving inside, and you feel a bump as you cycle through the first third of the travel. Anyone know what that is, and if it's normal? And, if not, how to fix it? 

I should note that I took apart the post to grease it up and install the 2.1 actuator, so maybe I screwed something up, but it wasn't particularly complicated, and I didn't see anything that could come loose.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

LowLow said:


> I should note that I took apart the post to grease it up and install the 2.1 actuator, so maybe I screwed something up, but it wasn't particularly complicated, and I didn't see anything that could come loose.


Hit us up at [email protected] we'll figure it out and get you sorted.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Deleted, I read your post wrong and it sounds like there is something internal perhaps that is a bit loose.

When I cycle mine in my hand, it doesn't do any of that. These are the things needed for proper assembly tho. Maybe you forgot one?

1- Remove the existing 2.0 actuator
2- Swap the rubber bumper from the 2.0 to 2.1 (maybe this was forgotten?)
3- Slide on the 2.1 and put the bolts in the right way (I did mine backwards for a second)
4- Torque down the 2.1 actuator using a 15mm socket head placed over the head of the actuator (no real socket interface). Tighten to 5nm.


----------



## kkaufmann (May 22, 2019)

Question for you Oneup, have you had any reports of the v2 dropper overall diameter being a few mm too narrow? The one I have is around 30.84 at the base for a 30.9. I've noticed a very slight knock/shimmy of my whole post if I grab the base shaft (not part that extends) and pivot it inside the seattube. I've torqued my clamp to 5.5nm and applied carbon paste. My frame is the 18' Pivot Mach 5.5. 

Thoughts or solutions?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

kkaufmann said:


> Question for you Oneup, have you had any reports of the v2 dropper overall diameter being a few mm too narrow? The one I have is around 30.84 at the base for a 30.9. I've noticed a very slight knock/shimmy of my whole post if I grab the base shaft (not part that extends) and pivot it inside the seattube. I've torqued my clamp to 5.5nm and applied carbon paste. My frame is the 18' Pivot Mach 5.5.
> 
> Thoughts or solutions?


I'm not sure what you're experiencing. Are you saying that you can spin the post lower in the frame after it's tight? 30.84mm is well within tolerance for a 30.9mm post.

Please give me some more info to troubleshoot.

Thanks,
Jon


----------



## cfrankscid (Feb 11, 2012)

I was having wrist issues because the matchmaker mounted lever was protruding too far to the left. I ordered the right side SRAM mmx adaptor and switched the lever over and it fixed the issue. Lever was moved over about half an inch. Just the right amount.


----------



## Grim (Aug 18, 2008)

I have just installed the 180mm v2 with the 2.1 actuator on a Medium Bronson v3.

Its only sticking out by about 2.5cm (could probably go down as low as 2cm).

It has replaced a 150mm v1 which I left sticking out by about 5.5cm (could have probably had it lower - I think from memory down to 3.5cm, but wanted extra seat height for full leg extension for climbing and also to ensure better reliability given actuator problems with the SC Bronson v3 frame).

Overall very happy with the v2 and the 2.1 actuator - looking forward to the first test ride tomorrow morning.


a couple of questions for OneUp however:


1. Does the actuator need to be fully tightened in to the body of the dropper? The way that the cable is routed through the Bronson frame is to the right of centre (while sitting on the bike) so having the actuator facing that direction is helpful to its reliability - fully tightening would actually make it face leftwards leadeing to an akward angle for the cable.


2. Is it possible to obtain the alluminium "screw" that is used by the barrel adjuster - it is very soft and mine has snapped due to cable tension. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money on a new remote when only one small cheap part of it has broken.

Many thanks


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Hey Jon so I have had the 210 version 2 post for a bit now and it’s been working out nicely. I didn’t get along with your guys lever, maybe if I had the right side matchmaker but by then I already had the wolftooth standard lever and the LA lever was only 20.00 vs the oneup and then a matchmaker. Anyhow now that I’ve had some time on it after lubricating the version 2.1 actuator and installing the LA wolftooth lever it has been working out great.

Now I’m just working dialing in the drop I want. 210 fits my frame but I’m starting to think it’s a little lower than I want, I’m thinking it’s subconsciously making me squat down lower leading to my quads fatigue on longer runs. I’ll probably test at 200 in the next few rides and then 190 but I thought I’d see if you guys have any info like a database of what height riders prefer what drop. I know it’s all personal preference just seeing if there is an avg. you guys have found. I’d be a 6ft rider with 34” inseam. It’s definitely better and more confident inspiring than the 170 reverb I had but now just trying to dial in that perfect amount.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Now I'm just working dialing in the drop I want. 210 fits my frame but I'm starting to think it's a little lower than I want, I'm thinking it's subconsciously making me squat down lower leading to my quads fatigue on longer runs. I'll probably test at 200 in the next few rides and then 190 but I thought I'd see if you guys have any info like a database of what height riders prefer what drop. I know it's all personal preference just seeing if there is an avg. you guys have found. I'd be a 6ft rider with 34" inseam. It's definitely better and more confident inspiring than the 170 reverb I had but now just trying to dial in that perfect amount.


I am also 6'0" with a 34" in seam. I ran 210mm for a while but decided to drop it to 200mm (that's where I'm happiest). I'm afraid we don't have much of a database. My gut is 6'1"+ is 210mm, 5'8"+ is 180mm, 5'3"+ 150mm, 120mm only is you are dealing with a tough frame.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Grim (Aug 18, 2008)

Hi Jon, are you able to get back to me on the two questions above? Thanks


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Sorry, missed these questions:



Grim said:


> 1. Does the actuator need to be fully tightened in to the body of the dropper? The way that the cable is routed through the Bronson frame is to the right of centre (while sitting on the bike) so having the actuator facing that direction is helpful to its reliability - fully tightening would actually make it face leftwards leadeing to an akward angle for the cable.


Yes it does need to be fully tightened. If not, the dropping motion could rotate the actuator eventually causing it to disconnect.



Grim said:


> 2. Is it possible to obtain the alluminium "screw" that is used by the barrel adjuster - it is very soft and mine has snapped due to cable tension. I would prefer not to spend a lot of money on a new remote when only one small cheap part of it has broken.


Where are you located? Hit us up at [email protected] for warranty of the barrel adjuster. Alternatively is it a standard part that is available at any LBS.

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

New V2 is working well, but one weird thing that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.

Thanks,

Mark


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Mark16q said:


> New V2 is working well, but one weird that that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark


So I had the exact same situation and even had the cable slip multiple times. I've since completely greased the version 2.1 actuator and went to the wolftooth LA lever and it's gotten a ton better. First actuation is still a bit detenty but it is a ton better and over the course of a whole ride its been good.


----------



## mati_luk (Aug 9, 2019)

Hi Jon,
I have a question - is the dropper remote body V2 match with Sram trigger clamp? On pictures it looks very similiar to yours handelbar clamps.

Thanks


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Jesse Hill said:


> So I had the exact same situation and even had the cable slip multiple times. I've since completely greased the version 2.1 actuator and went to the wolftooth LA lever and it's gotten a ton better. First actuation is still a bit detenty but it is a tone better and over the course of a whole ride its been good.


Actually did slip first time out and figured it was me not tightening enough. I didn't check the box for the free v2 actuator and now regretting that. Is there a way to still get that no cost?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

mati_luk said:


> Hi Jon,
> I have a question - is the dropper remote body V2 match with Sram trigger clamp? On pictures it looks very similiar to yours handelbar clamps.


Yes, The remote body works natively with the SRAM MMX adapter



Mark16q said:


> New V2 is working well, but one weird thing that I saw someone else mention here. The first time I use the trigger, it's really hard to pull. After that it's easy. Like something is hanging up on the actuator but then smooths out. Is there a way to avoid this, afraid the cable is going to slip based on how hard I have to push the release the first time. This is true whether I'm on or off the bike seat unweighted.


This is normal and will improve with use.

When the new post sits for a while (overnight for example) the oring inside the valve that is inside the cartridge conforms to the valve making is slightly more difficult to actuate the first time. Subsequent actuations are easy because the oring doesn't have time to conform. It should not be hard enough to slip the cable though. The cable bolt can be made very tight. It also has nothing to do with the remote or the post actuator.

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Yes, The remote body works natively with the SRAM MMX adapter
> 
> This is normal and will improve with use.
> 
> ...


Post worked great today and I found that keeping all the tension out of the cable helped with the first pull. Any slack at all made for rough pull. No creaking, returned with authority and did what it was supposed to do. Really impressive piece, especially considering cost. Thinking I'll be selling my revive rather than trying to figure out how to lower stack height.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.

There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.

*Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post?* I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

*OneSpeed* said:


> 210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.
> 
> There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.
> 
> *Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post?* I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.


Yeah, when the post is extended it rattles pretty good. Don't notice when it's dropped. It has noticeable fore aft play which seems a bit concerning.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

jeremy3220 said:


> Yeah, when the post is extended it rattles pretty good. Don't notice when it's dropped. It has noticeable fore aft play which seems a bit concerning.


That's not good.

Mine definitely rattles when it's part way down too, not just when it's all the way up.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

*OneSpeed* said:


> 210mm V2 dropper: is anyone else having rattling problems? Any high speed rooty sections or chattery rocks yield an extremely annoying rattling sound like someone put a handful of plastic marbles in my frame.
> 
> There is also WAY more play in this dropper than my other two OneUp 170mm V1 droppers. The saddle knocks back and forth and that is what is causing the sound.
> 
> *Is anyone else experiencing this with the 210mm post?* I have to say, if something is not extremely loose in there and it cannot be fixed, that will be a deal breaker for this thing. I'll dig deeper into it tomorrow. Kind of annoying though with only two rides on it. It did the same thing on the first ride too.


We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.

The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.

Apologies again for the inconvenience.

Reference - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.
2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.







7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Hi Jon,

Is the above rattle fix applicable if the post rattles in the fully up position or dropped? Mine rattles if the post is fully up and unweighted.

I'm also having an issue with the post not returning properly, though need to try adding more air. It's also making a squeaking noise when lowering the post the last inch or so, any ideas?

V2 180mm with the V2.1 actuator if that makes any difference.

Thanks


----------



## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

OneUp said:


> We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.
> 
> The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.
> 
> ...


"have traced it back to a missed assembly operation"

"Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end"

Does this mean post's have "electrical tape" factory installed?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

fathomer said:


> Is the above rattle fix applicable if the post rattles in the fully up position or dropped? Mine rattles if the post is fully up and unweighted.
> 
> I'm also having an issue with the post not returning properly, though need to try adding more air. It's also making a squeaking noise when lowering the post the last inch or so, any ideas?


Yes, this fix will quiet the rattle completely. Please check the air and make sure the seat collar is not too tight. If that doesn't correct the issue, email us at [email protected]



keen said:


> Does this mean post's have "electrical tape" factory installed?


Yes that is correct. The gap is so small <0.25mm that a plastic tape (electrical tape) is used as a bumper between the upper tube and the cartridge.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

OneUp said:


> Yes, this fix will quiet the rattle completely. Please check the air and make sure the seat collar is not too tight. If that doesn't correct the issue, email us at [email protected]
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Thanks Jon, upping the pressure to nearly 300psi (it was well below 200) seems to have sorted the return. I won't know for certain till I get a ride in next weekend.

Still have a funny squeak type noise in the last inch or so of drop. If it doesn't go in the next couple if rides I'll drop you a mail.


----------



## HOBA (Aug 26, 2019)

I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
Heres a video of it:






I only notice it, when pedaling out of the saddle with the post extended all the way.

Will this be fixed with the electrical tape?
I've also noticed, that the seatcollar (Number 8, mid cap assembly) come loose from time to time.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

HOBA said:


> I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
> Heres a video of it:
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, that video clearly shows the problem. I haven't worked on mine yet, I'll report back on how effective the fix is.



> I've also noticed, that the seatcollar come loose from time to time.


The seatpost collar on the frame? That is an unrelated issue. Hit it with some grease and torque it to 4nm.


----------



## HOBA (Aug 26, 2019)

*OneSpeed* said:


> The seatpost collar on the frame? That is an unrelated issue.


No sorry, I meant the „Number 8, mid cap assembly".


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

HOBA said:


> I've also noticed the ratteling noise just after a couple of rides.
> I only notice it, when pedaling out of the saddle with the post extended all the way.
> 
> Will this be fixed with the electrical tape?


Yup that is the knock that is eliminated with the process above.



HOBA said:


> I've also noticed, that the seatcollar (Number 8, mid cap assembly) come loose from time to time.


You'll need to use a strap wrench to tighten the collar. Alternatively you can clamp the collar in a bike stand and use both hands on the lower to get it nice and tight.

If you still have it loosening contact [email protected] and ask for TRAVEL SHIMS KIT - V2 (Part number SP1C0051). The kit contains an oversized oring that replaces oring 8d in the following exploded view. It would be free of charge if you are continuing to have loosening issues.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/travel-shims-kit-v2

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

*V2 Problem*

Jon,

Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!

I got a 180mm V2 about two weeks ago. I have only managed to get on 2 rides. Today, during the second ride, I noticed that my dropper post started to act like a suspension seat post. It bounces about 5mm when hitting some bumps while climbing and in fully extended position. When I drop it just slightly, or completely, the bounce goes away. Also, when the bounce occurs, it always goes back to full extension, I don't have to actuate the lever to get it to return to full extension. To me it seems I may have received a defective cartridge. I live in the Middle East, and I got my post mail order from a German shop. Before I sent it back to them for warranty and possibly to loose my post for several weeks, or longer, I thought I would check out MTBR to see if there was anyone else with this problem.

Any thoughts?

By the way, other than the bounce, I love how it has functioned. Much better than the BrandX it replaced! Oh and I have it on my 2017 Santa Cruz Chameleon with a WT remote.

Here are two pics:
Before the ride:








After the ride:


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

stinkydogfart said:


> Jon,
> 
> Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!
> 
> ...


Just a quick thought or two:

1- Check the cable tension at the remote. Maybe de-tension it just a bit.
2- What is your PSI? Mine is at 275psi and is def ideal. Comes up fast for sure even when my shorts get in the way and requires no "un-weighting" to drop it.


----------



## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

OneUp said:


> We're really sorry to hear that you are experiencing some rattling with your post. This is not a common issue, but we've seen it a few times and have traced it back to a missed assembly operation.
> 
> The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the fast and thorough reply. I followed the procedure and installed the tape. It is OK when the dropper is all the way up, but unfortunately when it's half way, or in any position other than all the way up, there is a ton of play. It rattles back and forth and makes a ton of noise.

I'm having a hard time uploading the video but I'd be happy to e-mail it to you.

Is there something else I can check or adjust? Is this a known issue?


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

svinyard said:


> Just a quick thought or two:
> 
> 1- Check the cable tension at the remote. Maybe de-tension it just a bit.
> 2- What is your PSI? Mine is at 275psi and is def ideal. Comes up fast for sure even when my shorts get in the way and requires no "un-weighting" to drop it.


Thanks for the suggestions!

With the Wolf Tooth Remote I have to run it loose to get the proper rotational position that is comfortable for my thumb. So plenty of slack there. As far as pressure, I have it set at 260 psi. It actuates smooth and fast. Quick to drop, like you say never having to unweight it before dropping. It pops up fast and smooth with a definite light clunk as it reaches full extension. All in all it is a really nice and smooth dropper no issues besides this annoying bounce. I am going to try to put the 10mm travel reducer pins in and see if it does it there, it doesn't do it when I drop the post 10 mm..


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

stinkydogfart said:


> Super cool you are here on the forum answering people's questions. Amazing for a company to be so forthcoming!


No problem. Our post is super easy to work on. People just need the information to understand the system. This is a great place to build that knowledge base.



stinkydogfart said:


> I noticed that my dropper post started to act like a suspension seat post. It bounces about 5mm when hitting some bumps while climbing and in fully extended position. When I drop it just slightly, or completely, the bounce goes away. Also, when the bounce occurs, it always goes back to full extension, I don't have to actuate the lever to get it to return to full extension.


This is a very weird issue as it only has a few of the symptoms for any given issue:

Option 1 - The cartridge is faulty and has air on the oil side. We have not seen this issue on V1 or V2 but it would cause a bounce. The problem is that that bounce would be anywhere in the travel, not just the top.

Option 2 - The top nut under the seat clamp is loose. This would cause free movement of the upper post at any point in the mid stroke but not when fully up. Also the movement would not be a bounce it would be free play.

Option 3 - The cartridge valve is not fully closed so the post is sinking. This would require that you press the lever to return the post to full height.

As you can see it doesn't match any of these troubleshooting options. Please try the shimming idea that you suggested. If that doesn't work we'll get you a cartridge replacement to rule the cartridge out. Just copy this conversation into an [email protected] email.

Jon


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

Ok, I did some more investigation. I installed all 6 reducer shims, and corrected my seat height accordingly. There is still bounce. I also noticed that with the shims and once I removed them, there is some sag, movement, when I first put weight on the post.

I also tried to tighten the top nut near the air valve. It just rotates the whole cartridge assembly in the seat post. I can't get it to tighten or loosen.

I followed these, but I'm stuck with the whole cartridge rotating:

1 - Remove the post from your bike and put it in a mid travel position.
2 - Remove your Seat, Clamps (1-4), and Valve Cover (5).
3 - Unscrew Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
4 - Unscrew Actuator (16) using either a 17mm wrench (V2) or a 14mm wrench (V2.1)
5 - Slide Cartridge (14) out of Upper Tube (7) while it is still attached to Actuator (16)
6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.

7 - Reinstall Cartridge (14) into Upper Tube (7) - It should now be a snug fit.
8 - Screw Actuator (16) back into Lower Tube (12)
9 - Activate Actuator (16) to fully extend the post
10 - Reinstall Cartridge Lockring (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
11 - Reinstall Valve Cover (5).
12 - Reinstall your Post, Seat and Clamps (1-4).

I don't see how you can stop the rotation to tighten or loosen this nut. In my mind, if you use a spanner socket on the bottom 4 pin cap, you would risk loosening that cap to the internals of the cartridge if the top nut didn't immediately come loose. The lower shaft that comes out of the cartridge is free to rotate, so if you hold it, the body of the cartridge still rotates with the top nut.

Anybody have any ideas for me to try? OneUp has been super cool over email, but I thought I would also put an update here.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

OneUp said:


> This is a great place to build that knowledge base.
> 
> Jon


I have a question that you might be able to help with.

I bought the 150mm v1 for a build on a size L commencal supreme sx frame. The issue im going to have is the clearance in the seatube for a cable is extremely tight, as in you have to force it past the main high pivot then down around the bottom bracket bearing and back up through the seattube. I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.

Will the V2 with the 2.1 actuator help with this? Also is the 150 v2 much shorter than the v1?

Thanks in advance,
Marcus


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

ATXZJ said:


> I have a question that you might be able to help with.
> 
> I bought the 150mm v1 for a build on a size L commencal supreme sx frame. The issue im going to have is the clearance in the seatube for a cable is extremely tight, as in you have to force it past the main high pivot then down around the bottom bracket bearing and back up through the seattube. I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.
> 
> ...


The v1 total length is 442mm for the 150mm. The v2 design is def more compact with the 150mm coming in at 420mm. All measurements quoted include the actuator length. I've had both V1 and now V2...the 2.1 actuator on the V2 (check the box when you buy) will help out for sure with this in my opinion. Its just a simple cable pull now.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

svinyard said:


> The v1 total length is 442mm for the 150mm. The v2 design is def more compact with the 150mm coming in at 420mm. All measurements quoted include the actuator length. I've had both V1 and now V2...the 2.1 actuator on the V2 (check the box when you buy) will help out for sure with this in my opinion. Its just a simple cable pull now.


Thanks for the quick response! Yeah, that's probably the way I'm gonna have to go to make this work.


----------



## 7BChM2 (Aug 28, 2019)

For anyone else considering doing the same, I've just put a OneUP dropper 150mm v2 post on my small sized 2019 YT Jeffsy carbon. Enough tube to have it slammed. Working fine with the e*Thirteen lever from the post its replacing. Reused the same inner and outer cable. Took a couple of goes tightening and loosing of cable tension at the lever to get the ferrule at the post end to bed in. Had to be careful not too tighten the seat post clamp too much.

it goes down low, it goes all the way up, it goes anywhere in-between. what an improvement on the e****Thirteen! 😄


----------



## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

I can't figure out what the point of the 2.1 actuator is. It isn't shorter. It doesn't move the extended part over since both sides protrude as much as the center piece of the 2.0. It does move the cable over, but not by much.


----------



## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

ATXZJ said:


> I am highly doubtful that there will be enough play for the housing to freely move and actuate the dropper.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Marcus


The housing doesn't move when the lever is pushed.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Schulze said:


> The housing doesn't move when the lever is pushed.


The housing does move when you push the lever with a v1 or v2 2.0 actuator. Its just the housing near the 2.0 actuator, not the whole thing. I have a v1 and v2 in hand and on bike. Grab your v1 (when its out of the bike) and try to actuate it with your hand. You have to push the green tip of the actuator into the post about 4mm and pop...the post will extend. The cable does nothing but help pull the housing into the actuator tip pushing it 4mm into the post to initiate extension. So...for SC bikes where it was to tight for this to work...the v2 2.1 actuator was required. The 2.1 actuator uses the cable head to pull down on a small lever inside the 2.1 actuator, thus extending the post. I'm sure I'm not using the ideal verbiage but you get the gist.

The 2.1 actuator is a welcome improvement imo having had both v1 and v2. Good design and still keeps the post ultra short (which is awesome). Great dropper.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Schulze said:


> I can't figure out what the point of the 2.1 actuator is. It isn't shorter. It doesn't move the extended part over since both sides protrude as much as the center piece of the 2.0. It does move the cable over, but not by much.


The 2.0 relies on the housing to be able to move as the housing is what actuated the post. This doesn't work in frames the have no room to leave the cable housing loose in the seat tube or frames that have the housing run though tight tubes (SC lower link bikes are used as the example). The 2.1 actuator the housing is fixed and never moves, now you no longer need to leave slack in the seat tube so you have effectively more room to lower the post (doesn't need to leave clearance for loose housing) and doesn't rely on the housing being able to move in the frame.


----------



## Gilgo (Jul 15, 2011)

Did the tape trick and it worked. Also changed the actuator to a V2.1 and initial impression is that the remote feels smoother.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Sounds to me like the 2.1 actuator should come stock.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

majorjake said:


> Sounds to me like the 2.1 actuator should come stock.


The V2.1 will be a running change. All 200mm now have 2.1s and the rest will follow over the coming months. The V2.0 is just as smooth provided you have the 4mm of housing slack inside the frame (this is a tiny amount that almost all bikes have). The SC low slung shocks have incredibly tight tube-in-tube routing so we needed to make something available immediately at launch.

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## Gilgo (Jul 15, 2011)

On the Ripmo I suspect the difference between the actuators is related to the design of the entry port for the housing. There is a sharp edge and no rubber grommets on the seattube entry port. When pulling on the housing it slides against the sharp edge giving friction. Combine that with me having a L frame and a 180mm post almost totally slammed... not a lot room for the housing to move freely. With bigger and smoother entry ports it would likely work the same with both actuators.


----------



## Schulze (Feb 21, 2007)

Jesse Hill said:


> The 2.0 relies on the housing to be able to move as the housing is what actuated the post. This doesn't work in frames the have no room to leave the cable housing loose in the seat tube or frames that have the housing run though tight tubes (SC lower link bikes are used as the example). The 2.1 actuator the housing is fixed and never moves, now you no longer need to leave slack in the seat tube so you have effectively more room to lower the post (doesn't need to leave clearance for loose housing) and doesn't rely on the housing being able to move in the frame.


I see that now, thanks. I didn't look at them too closely, just swapped them and installed.


----------



## Knesling (Sep 4, 2019)

Just to be clear. Oneup is changing all the droppers to the v2.1? If not, why wouldn't you want to get the v2.1 that only pulls the cable and not the housing? What would be the benefit from the housing moving?


----------



## Huexxx (Jul 23, 2019)

Hi folks.

I ordered my 210 one with the additional v2.1 actuator... and in my case I prefer the v2 one... Take into account that on several frames with a curved seat tube (like my Strive CF), if the seatpost is fully inserted v2.1 actuator, with non centered housing-stop position can end up so close to tube inner and make the things work worse.

In my case v2 works better, smoother and with lower remote lever travel. Also v2.1 made some strange sounds inside my frame...

This afternoon I'll remove the rattling and I hope this will be the last mod to the dropper.

IMHO the best to do is to offer both actuators and allow buyer to choose the prefered one.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

Hey Jon question on the oneup post. I have rebuild my dads post because it had the rattle so added tape and fix worked. Last night I rebuilt mine for same concern and found mine has an o ring around the outside of the schrader valve that my dads did not. I’m pretty sure his didn’t have one at all not just stuck to the seat head etc because the flats on the schrader valve were pretty even with the seat post head. So is his needing an o ring or did mine get something it wasn’t supposed to?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Jesse Hill said:


> Hey Jon question on the oneup post. I have rebuild my dads post because it had the rattle so added tape and fix worked. Last night I rebuilt mine for same concern and found mine has an o ring around the outside of the schrader valve that my dads did not. I'm pretty sure his didn't have one at all not just stuck to the seat head etc because the flats on the schrader valve were pretty even with the seat post head. So is his needing an o ring or did mine get something it wasn't supposed to?


They all have the oring by the valve. If you didn't see it, it was likely just inside the upper tube. If it is missing or misplaced hit us up and ask for SP1C0031 (KIT, CARTRIDGE HARDWARE).

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

I’m a few weeks into using my 120mm v2 replacing a bikeyoke. No issues with bikeyoke just too tall for my new bike. Using a cheapie amazon trigger and though it was sticky at first, everything is silky smooth now. I’m not using the 2.1 attachment. easy to modulate height no noises and pops up great. And the seat clamp hasn't loosened a bit and quite solid. For the cost and slight weight addition there is just no excuse not to run a dropper other than high level Xc racing where every gram counts.


----------



## Doug (Jan 12, 2004)

*Scratched stanction*

I got a new 210mm v2 and after a quick test ride to make sure it worked...I saw a scratch in the stanction. You can also see a faint line where something is rubbing. After some more actuations it got worse.

What could cause this? Any reason it may cause more problems?

I've opened a warranty claim with the place I bought it.


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I’ve had four V1 x 170mm, got a V2 x 210mm when they were first released, running it with a Wolf Tooth lever, very easy swap from a 170mm, has worked great, though it was a little sticky in the cold a few weeks ago.

The top cap/wiper seal is quite snug, i unscrews it and this was what slowing down return, hopefully it’ll wear in over time. The post is pretty long, so it flexes a smigein, but not enough to be noticeable. 

Post insert is really short, I’m amazed I can run such a long post slammed.

Two thumbs up!


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I just want to say that I have a 180mm v2 one up that I use on my giant trance 29, paired with a WT remote. I also have a bikeyoke revive 185 on my megatower that utilizes their remote. For the money, I think the oneup v2 is every bit as good as the bikeyoke in practical usage. 

The bikeyoke feels more expensive when using it. The operation is smoother, the feeling of the breakaway/actuation point in the remote is more buttery and easier to find for those 1/8 presses to slowly drop the post. In general, it's easier to intuitively ever so slightly actuate the remote and feather the control of the post. Overall, it just feels like a more premium product when it comes time to actuate the remote.

However, the OneUp post is noticeably firmer and has less vertical play/squish then the bikeyoke. This to me, is overall a good thing. However, it does transmit a bit more harshness through the saddle into the ole butt area. Again, I don't think this is a bad thing as it makes you in certain ways feel more connected to the bike and gives you better seat of the pants feel, but it is something to note. The overall remote feel is notchier (and yes i have used the v2 one up remote for comparison).

The bikeyoke does require fairly regular usage of the revive feature to curtail about 1/4" of sag that will develop over the course of say, 2-3 rides. Once done, it will curb that sag but there is no doubt the bikeyoke needs this feature for it's own longevity.

Overall, both great posts, but the oneup wins based on price, rebuild-ability and domestic customer support.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

minimusprime said:


> Overall, both great posts, but the oneup wins based on price, rebuild-ability and domestic customer support.


How is a seat post that requires the cartridge to be thrown in the bin and replaced with a new one winning on rebuild-ability?.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> How is a seat post that requires the cartridge to be thrown in the bin and replaced with a new one winning on rebuild-ability?.


Because for 60 dollars you can carry a spare cartridge with you. If you're like me and your evoc bag sees 5-10 uses a year and you do another 5-10 weekends away at races, events or destination rides over 5 hours from home, it's a no brainer. Maybe i'm scared from ending up across the country with a borked reverb... but the oneup provides a solution to a very real problem for people like me.

If we're going to base which post to buy based on carbon footprint and sustainability... then I would advise a new hobby. We in this niche like to think we do this and it's good clean fun, but this industry is anything but good and clean. We ride highly tuned machines made that are shipped across the globe to your door, made of cutting edge materials with a shockingly short lifespan (5 years).

TLDR; thanks for your comment on my post, but I think your focus on the sustainability of seat posts isn't a significant factor in choosing the right seat post.


----------



## thedrizzle (Feb 17, 2012)

Does anyone know if it is possible to change the drop on a 180 to 210?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

It is not. You can drop them down cannot raise them past their max height.


----------



## thedrizzle (Feb 17, 2012)

cassieno said:


> It is not. You can drop them down cannot raise them past their max height.


Cheers

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## planetx88 (Mar 24, 2012)

I've been regreasing more that I thought. Every once in a while my V2 180 starts feeling terrible. Unscrew the thumbscrew, grease it up, good to go. I have used slick honey (my go-to) and Kogel grease, and neither lasts more that 4-5 rides. Again, super easy to do on the fly, but seems unneseccary. Possible to run a foam ring in the future?


----------



## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

planetx88 said:


> I've been regreasing more that I thought. Every once in a while my V2 180 starts feeling terrible. Unscrew the thumbscrew, grease it up, good to go. I have used slick honey (my go-to) and Kogel grease, and neither lasts more that 4-5 rides. Again, super easy to do on the fly, but seems unneseccary. Possible to run a foam ring in the future?


I have a Fallline 9point8 that experiences similar lubrication issues. 9point8 isn't that easy to crack open so what i do is give a quick shot before each ride with this :https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-78920-High-Gloss-Coating/dp/B000WK5PWQ


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

keen said:


> I have a Fallline 9point8 that experiences similar lubrication issues. 9point8 isn't that easy to crack open so what i do is give a quick shot before each ride with this :https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-78920-High-Gloss-Coating/dp/B000WK5PWQ


How do you best use that stuff? I just got a can for all our suspension etc in the garage. Curious if there is a "best practice" or not. Also, how do you clean the stanchions before applying?


----------



## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

svinyard said:


> How do you best use that stuff? I just got a can for all our suspension etc in the garage. Curious if there is a "best practice" or not. Also, how do you clean the stanchions before applying?


No fanciness here : Quick wipe w/ a paper towel then a shot of spray followed by one cycle of the dropper - done. I have been nursing my 9point8 all season long. I was instructed by 9point8 to lube the internals which is only good for a few rides only.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

planetx88 said:


> I've been regreasing more that I thought. Every once in a while my V2 180 starts feeling terrible. Unscrew the thumbscrew, grease it up, good to go. I have used slick honey (my go-to) and Kogel grease, and neither lasts more that 4-5 rides. Again, super easy to do on the fly, but seems unneseccary. Possible to run a foam ring in the future?


I haven't had that happen with my 210mm, which has been a nice so far...the extra length is incredible. What do you mean by "feels terrible"? Is its the remote feel or when pushing the post down? Just curious. What PSI are you running at?


----------



## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

svinyard said:


> I haven't had that happen with my 210mm, which has been a nice so far...the extra length is incredible. What do you mean by "feels terrible"? Is its the remote feel or when pushing the post down? Just curious. What PSI are you running at?


This happens all the time with my V1. I was hoping the V2 has cured it. I thought the V2 was 185mm so maybe plaetx88 is referring to the v1 post?

When pushing down it just feels terrible, way to much friction, doesn't move smoothly, feels like I am fighting something. I think I have 300 psi in there (pumped it to max right when I got it - because I was also having issues with it not making it the last 1/4" up when the friction developed).

Then I have to do exactly this procedure "unscrew the thumbscrew, grease it up, good to go. I have used slick honey (my go-to) and Kogel grease, and neither lasts more that 4-5 rides."

Works again for a little bit, rinse and repeat all the time.

Good to hear that it's not universal experience with the V2.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

planetx88 said:


> I've been regreasing more that I thought. Every once in a while my V2 180 starts feeling terrible. Unscrew the thumbscrew, grease it up, good to go. I have used slick honey (my go-to) and Kogel grease, and neither lasts more that 4-5 rides. Again, super easy to do on the fly, but seems unneseccary. Possible to run a foam ring in the future?


It probably wouldn't hurt to contact OneUp about this. I've only been running a V2 for several months, and it has been great the whole time. No issues at all, past the cable housing popping out of the o-ring during installation.


----------



## Grooverider (Aug 24, 2018)

My v1 170 is giving me serious issues and I'm about to file warranty claim on it.
Hopefully my replacement or fix makes it last a little more than 7 months (got it earlier but didn't ride for a while).
Even after following all the maintenance videos and making sure it's well lubricated that thing would stop at about 1-2" before full extraction and sometimes it would take like 0.5-1 second to do so.
It was awesome for first few months thou.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Grooverider said:


> My v1 170 is giving me serious issues and I'm about to file warranty claim on it.
> Hopefully my replacement or fix makes it last a little more than 7 months (got it earlier but didn't ride for a while).
> Even after following all the maintenance videos and making sure it's well lubricated that thing would stop at about 1-2" before full extraction and sometimes it would take like 0.5-1 second to do so.
> It was awesome for first few months thou.


I'm sure you've checked your PSI, but if not, jump that to 280. Other than that, for sure contact OneUp support. They are great to deal with, no BS. At least try the new IGUS bushing before asking for a new post. They will prob just send you one. Its nice hard, slick plastic. Should/might get you back to what it was before. Some people had some deformation of the OG bushing


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Well I read this entire thread hoping it would answer my question. I purchased a V2 Oneup dropper for my wife's bike; really impressed with how compact the thing is. It's a great value it would seem. 
Anyways I need to reduce the travel 10 mm and watched a video. It seemed easy enough. I trimmed my shim to 10mm, tucked it in real nice, like it's down in there now and I can't see it. Used a very small allan wrench to tuck it way down, even on all sides. But I can't get the white bushing to go all of the way down so that I can screw the collar back on. Tried kind of slamming the collar down on it, tried lowering the post, raising the post. Not sure what else to do.
Help!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

I know you said you tried lowering the post, but just to make sure, the post does need to dropped about 2” from full extension. The way they are designed, they can over extend a small bit when the top cap is off. Making it impossible to get the bushing in and thread the top cap back on. So make sure you have it dropped about 2”, then try to push the bushing in and thread the top cap on.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Suns_PSD said:


> Well I read this entire thread hoping it would answer my question. I purchased a V2 Oneup dropper for my wife's bike; really impressed with how compact the thing is. It's a great value it would seem.
> Anyways I need to reduce the travel 10 mm and watched a video. It seemed easy enough. I trimmed my shim to 10mm, tucked it in real nice, like it's down in there now and I can't see it. Used a very small allan wrench to tuck it way down, even on all sides. But I can't get the white bushing to go all of the way down so that I can screw the collar back on. Tried kind of slamming the collar down on it, tried lowering the post, raising the post. Not sure what else to do.
> Help!


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the V2 dropper doesn't require you to cut anything to reduce travel. All you do is unscrew the collar, slide up the white bushing, install the little pin shims that come with the post, and close back up. Here are the V2 instructions: https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/travel-shims-kit-v2.


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the V2 dropper doesn't require you to cut anything to reduce travel. All you do is unscrew the collar, slide up the white bushing, install the little pin shims that come with the post, and close back up. Here are the V2 instructions: https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/travel-shims-kit-v2.


That's an entirely different way of doing it from what I've seen. I bought a little plastic shim kit and used those instead of the metal pins.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

s0ckeyeus said:


> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the V2 dropper doesn't require you to cut anything to reduce travel. All you do is unscrew the collar, slide up the white bushing, install the little pin shims that come with the post, and close back up. Here are the V2 instructions: https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/travel-shims-kit-v2.


It sucks that when you google 'OneUp dropper post travel reduction' you are linked to videos of the plastic shim kit being used. The seller (a major distributor that clearly had experience with the product) even described the process to me and clearly had done it before.

Communication has always been a weakness of OneUp imo.

Does anyone have any ideas for getting the plastic shim out of there? The ones I paid for and used already.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Suns_PSD said:


> It sucks that when you google 'OneUp dropper post travel reduction' you are linked to videos of the plastic shim kit being used. The seller (a major distributor that clearly had experience with the product) even described the process to me and clearly had done it before.
> 
> Communication has always been a weakness of OneUp imo.


The white plastic shim is what's used in the V1 dropper. The V2 method is probably better, but the tiny little pins can easily be misplaced. If you still have the stuff that came with the dropper, they would have come in a bag that also contained a bit of unlabeled grease.


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

Suns_PSD said:


> Does anyone have any ideas for getting the plastic shim out of there? The ones I paid for and used already.


Follow the service instructions and you should easily be able to remove the plastic once you have it taken apart. Be careful to hang onto all the brass pins! These instructions below are for the V1. The procedure is the same but the small parts are a little different on the V2. Look at the parts diagram for more info there..

V1 service instructions:
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-service-instructions

V2 parts diagram:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...22.1925553798.1571797104-896726251.1571797104


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

s0ckeyeus said:


> The white plastic shim is what's used in the V1 dropper. The V2 method is probably better, but the tiny little pins can easily be misplaced. If you still have the stuff that came with the dropper, they would have come in a bag that also contained a bit of unlabeled grease.


Yeah definitely different process. The video is right on the Posts main webpage on how to do it with a nice animation. Youtube is filled with Shim stuff tho...I think a lot of the issue there is that the Droppers are the same name so you get some cross pollination outside of OneUp's site.

Nice instructions here:
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/dropper-post-v2

Suns if you hit them up via email Corey will get back to you quick too. [email protected]


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks, all straightened out. It's a heck of a nice product and value. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

Has anyone tried these in Mondraker Foxy Carbon.. I have the 180mm version and have to raise it nearly 30mm higher than I need to for it to work correctly (it will easily drop that much more) - otherwise it just drops down as there is pressure on the cable... I have been waiting 2-3 weeks already for the V2 Actuator and am close to sending it back.. I don't see why I should reduce the travel when there is enough movement left in the post.. Hoping the V2 Actuator will help with this - Any thoughts??


----------



## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I have 2 Foxy's (29er for me, 27.5 SL for the wife) and they have a very sharp turn at the dropper cable.
Just installed the Oneup V2 with the newer style cable actuator on my wife's Foxy and am able to have the dropper just 1/4" from it's lowest position (any lower and the dropper quits working).
It's a nice product but my wife being light and not such a strong thumb does find it sticky, but bearable, with the easy leverage WolfCreek remote. I attribute the stickiness to the old 'you get what you pay for' thing. I do consider the V2 a killer value and product, it just isn't the equal of my KS Lev Ci nor should it be with the cost difference. 
Hope that helps. 

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Suns_PSD said:


> I have 2 Foxy's (29er for me, 27.5 SL for the wife) and they have a very sharp turn at the dropper cable.
> Just installed the Oneup V2 with the newer style cable actuator on my wife's Foxy and am able to have the dropper just 1/4" from it's lowest position (any lower and the dropper quits working).
> It's a nice product but my wife being light and not such a strong thumb does find it sticky, but bearable, with the easy leverage WolfCreek remote. I attribute the stickiness to the old 'you get what you pay for' thing. I do consider the V2 a killer value and product, it just isn't the equal of my KS Lev Ci nor should it be with the cost difference.
> Hope that helps.


Hmm. My V2 with the standard actuator and OneUp remote is super easy to drop. I don't know if I'd chalk this up to just "you get what you pay for." It's not unrealistic to expect the dropper to work. If it doesn't I'd verify the setup or get a hold of OneUp, even if it's possible there's a compatibility issue with the frame.


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

Suns_PSD said:


> I have 2 Foxy's (29er for me, 27.5 SL for the wife) and they have a very sharp turn at the dropper cable.
> Just installed the Oneup V2 with the newer style cable actuator on my wife's Foxy and am able to have the dropper just 1/4" from it's lowest position (any lower and the dropper quits working).
> It's a nice product but my wife being light and not such a strong thumb does find it sticky, but bearable, with the easy leverage WolfCreek remote. I attribute the stickiness to the old 'you get what you pay for' thing. I do consider the V2 a killer value and product, it just isn't the equal of my KS Lev Ci nor should it be with the cost difference.
> Hope that helps.
> ...


Thanks for that, it sort of reassures me that I should be able to drop it and it will work fine. Just got to wait now for the new actuator. The post itself seems to work alright currently - not at all sticky, and that is with the OneUp Lever - which I will say is nowhere near as nice as the Crankbrothers one it replaced..


----------



## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

Just had the v2 180mm dropper not stay up (or down either) on my R.M Slayer 2020 thats only a week old. It was below 0 degrees celcius so it might be due to cable housing freezing or something.. It works fine when I brought the bike back inside. The cable housing doesnt move very easily in this bike so maybe the v2.1 actuator would be better?


Edit: It happened again on a 30 minute ride.. The cable housing was pre installed on the bike but otherwise I had to install the post myself.. Maybe I need to take out the housing and reinstall it to maybe get a better movement space?


----------



## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

The housing seems to be inside a tube inside the frame.. So maybe its the same case like in santa cruz newer frames?


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

Jukis said:


> Just had the v2 180mm dropper not stay up (or down either) on my R.M Slayer 2020 thats only a week old. It was below 0 degrees celcius so it might be due to cable housing freezing or something.. It works fine when I brought the bike back inside. The cable housing doesnt move very easily in this bike so maybe the v2.1 actuator would be better?
> 
> Edit: It happened again on a 30 minute ride.. The cable housing was pre installed on the bike but otherwise I had to install the post myself.. Maybe I need to take out the housing and reinstall it to maybe get a better movement space?


I had a look at the Slayer and the Seat Tube doesn't look like it would be too obtrusive as the kink looks quite slack. The design on the Mondraker has the shock running though the seat tube and the frame is very tight where the cable runs through. 
I was limited on my old Dune also, just hoped that the OneUp would be better as it is a fair bit shorter than my old CrankBrothers Highline I had on that.
Fingers crossed the V2 Actuator will help...


----------



## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

Its not a problem with the kink being too tight, its the problem with the cable housing guiding tube (inside the frame) being too tight and coming too far(it guides the housing to come up to seat tube).


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

Jukis said:


> Its not a problem with the kink being too tight, its the problem with the cable housing guiding tube (inside the frame) being too tight and coming too far(it guides the housing to come up to seat tube).


I understand now, the cable runs inside a tube to guide it... Great in theory just not for this post. The V2 Actuator may well sort yours as well. Certainly hoping it does mine.


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

i bought a v2 150 mm dropper from the european distributor (i'm in france) and i believe it came with a v1 actuator, even though all v2 31,6 were supposed to come with the 2,1 actuator. Does this move the cable or the cable housing?

How can i get the 2.1 actuator?


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

rod9301 said:


> i bought a v2 150 mm dropper from the european distributor (i'm in france) and i believe it came with a v1 actuator, even though all v2 31,6 were supposed to come with the 2,1 actuator. Does this move the cable or the cable housing?
> 
> How can i get the 2.1 actuator?


That version moves the housing.

You can buy the other version straight off OneUp UK website.


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

Right, but on their site it says that all new posts ship with v 2.1

Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

rod9301 said:


> Right, but on their site it says that all new posts ship with v 2.1
> 
> Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


That was not always the case and I would not be suprised if some shops still have some old stock. That's why ordered mine directly from oneup EU store. I've had a 210mm 31.6mm version since the release and now I'm getting 210mm 30.9mm for my new bike.


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

hece said:


> That was not always the case and I would not be suprised if some shops still have some old stock. That's why ordered mine directly from oneup EU store. I've had a 210mm 31.6mm version since the release and now I'm getting 210mm 30.9mm for my new bike.


Yeah, but i ordered it from the one up Euro store in uk.

Hopefully someone from one up is reading this and refunds the extra money i spent

Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

But why are you buying the v2.1? You shouldnt get it if you dont need it. V2 is smoother *IF* your cable housing isnt blocked. Which bike do you have?


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

Jukis said:


> But why are you buying the v2.1? You shouldnt get it if you dont need it. V2 is smoother *IF* your cable housing isnt blocked. Which bike do you have?


I have a haibike with external routing, but i can use the internal, with a zip tie.
I'm worried that the cable housing will stick, or not move freely.

Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jukis (Sep 26, 2016)

If it goes inside the frame from behind a straight seat tube, or from the front of it, it will quite surely work very well with the 2.0. I have similar on my mondraker panzer with wolftooth sustain reverb modification.


----------



## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

I have a 2019 Size Large SC Bronson. I built it with a 170mm reverb B1 post. I had to use the reverb barb https://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Reverb-Hose-Barb-Post instead of the connectamajig as space was that tight. The reverb is now shot and I am done playing that game. Based on what I have read in this thread:

1) The 180mm drop OneUp V2 is the same 480mm length as the 170mm reverb. So this will fit in my L Bronson and then I can adjust the travel height if needed?

2) If I order the Oneup from a major US based online retailer I may or may not get the 2.1 actuator that I need for the Bronson installed on it. They may have old stock? If it doesn't come installed I will need to order one from OneUp for $20?

Thanks


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

dba4life said:


> I have a 2019 Size Large SC Bronson. I built it with a 170mm reverb B1 post. I had to use the reverb barb https://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Reverb-Hose-Barb-Post instead of the connectamajig as space was that tight. The reverb is now shot and I am done playing that game. Based on what I have read in this thread:
> 
> 1) The 180mm drop OneUp V2 is the same 480mm length as the 170mm reverb. So this will fit in my L Bronson and then I can adjust the travel height if needed?
> 
> ...


Do you not get the option of choosing to have the V2 actuator with it? It's an option on UK sites, I just never thought I'd need it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

dba4life said:


> I have a 2019 Size Large SC Bronson. I built it with a 170mm reverb B1 post. I had to use the reverb barb https://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Reverb-Hose-Barb-Post instead of the connectamajig as space was that tight. The reverb is now shot and I am done playing that game. Based on what I have read in this thread:
> 
> 1) The 180mm drop OneUp V2 is the same 480mm length as the 170mm reverb. So this will fit in my L Bronson and then I can adjust the travel height if needed?
> 
> ...


1) Most likely. Measure the stack of the Reverb and compare to the OneUp to be sure. My KS 150mm post had an almost identical stack to the 180mm OneUp.
2) It probably wouldn't hurt to check with the vendor you're buying from or directly from OneUp to confirm the actuator. Otherwise, you'd need to get the 2.1 from someone, wouldn't necessarily have to be OneUp.


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

rod9301 said:


> Yeah, but i ordered it from the one up Euro store in uk.
> 
> Hopefully someone from one up is reading this and refunds the extra money i spent


I just received a new 30.9 210mm v2 dropper from One Up UK store. It also has v2 actuator  Well, I think my new frame should not have any problems with the moving housing so this should be fine.

On my other bike I have a 31.6 210mm v2 with v2.1 and indeed it is not very smooth to actuate even with Wolftooth light action lever. I never tried it with v2 actuator.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

dba4life said:


> 1) The 180mm drop OneUp V2 is the same 480mm length as the 170mm reverb. So this will fit in my L Bronson and then I can adjust the travel height if needed?


The OneUp V2 180mm is 480mm including the actuator. The 170mm Reverb is 480mm not including any type of connector



dba4life said:


> 2) If I order the Oneup from a major US based online retailer I may or may not get the 2.1 actuator that I need for the Bronson installed on it. They may have old stock? If it doesn't come installed I will need to order one from OneUp for $20?


We have been selling most sizes with the V2.1 actuator installed for about a month. To be safe you would have to order direct from www.oneupcomponents.com to ensure that you be the updated design.

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

OneUp said:


> The OneUp V2 180mm is 480mm including the actuator. The 170mm Reverb is 480mm not including any type of connector
> 
> We have been selling most sizes with the V2.1 actuator installed for about a month. To be safe you would have to order direct from www.oneupcomponents.com to ensure that you be the updated design.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jon

Can you confirm this is the 2.1 actuator? It looks like it from your website pictures, but the retailer told me they were still selling the 2.0 actuator.


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

dba4life said:


> Thanks Jon
> 
> Can you confirm this is the 2.1 actuator? It looks like it from your website pictures, but the retailer told me they were still selling the 2.0 actuator.


That's the new one

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

dba4life said:


> Thanks Jon
> 
> Can you confirm this is the 2.1 actuator? It looks like it from your website pictures, but the retailer told me they were still selling the 2.0 actuator.


That is the 2.1 actuator.

I sent email to One Up Uk and they quickly sent the v2.1 which my dropper should have had shipped with.


----------



## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

DamianShep said:


> That's the new one
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cool. I had contacted Backcountry and they told me they were still shipping the 2.0 version. And I got the 2.1 version lol. And I will have an extra one when OneUp ships me the one ordered from them.


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

dba4life said:


> Cool. I had contacted Backcountry and they told me they were still shipping the 2.0 version. And I got the 2.1 version lol. And I will have an extra one when OneUp ships me the one ordered from them.


Does anyone know if the Actuator is in UK stock?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

V2.1 is in uk, i just got over from them 

Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


----------



## s-master (May 15, 2018)

I received my 210mm dropper post 3 weeks ago and just noticed that the site that I bought if from now offers 2020 model with "improved adjustment"(mentioned on the site). Same price. Is this only the new 2.1 actuator? In what way is it better than 2.0?

Also, I notice a little bit of "sinking" with the post. It is around 2-3mm, so it is not excessive. To be honest, I don't notice it while riding. I notice it while I am off the bike and lean on the post. Is this a warranty issue? Does it usually get progressively worse over time? Previews brand-x post didn't have this, even after two years of riding. It was 100% sink free. 

Currently I am running it in full 210mm configuration. 210mm drop is great, but maybe I don't need full 210 drop. If I lower it to 200mm or even 190mm, would I notice any better durability, because torque on the bushings would be reduced? FYI I am not that heavy (72kg naked) and real seat tub angle is 71°, so not too slack.

thank you


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

s-master said:


> Also, I notice a little bit of "sinking" with the post. It is around 2-3mm, so it is not excessive. To be honest, I don't notice it while riding. I notice it while I am off the bike and lean on the post. Is this a warranty issue? Does it usually get progressively worse over time? Previews brand-x post didn't have this, even after two years of riding. It was 100% sink free.


Out of curiosity, are you on a hard tail or full suspension? I noticed sinking in my 180 V2. I also had a bit of a bounce in it when I hit bumps or rock gardens while climbing in the sitting position. I am on a 2017 Santa Cruz Chameleon hard tail. I sent my first post back for warranty and the second post was the same. 2-3mm sag when weighted, another 4-5 mm of travel with hard hits while sitting. Total of 5-7mm of movement. OneUp has been super cool. They didn't find anything wrong with my first post. So I'm just riding this one. It seems nobody else is having this problem.. I'm heavy though.. 110 kg with gear on.


----------



## s-master (May 15, 2018)

Hey,
I am on full suspension bike. Most of the bumps are absorbed by the suspension, so force on the post while riding is not that high. This might be the reason for me not noticing it while riding.

I might as well just ride it than, and if it gets worse, I will warranty it.


----------



## Old Dirty B (Jan 4, 2019)

Im considering the oneup v2 210mm post. A crucial aspect for my bikefit is the ammount the saddle can be tilted downwards (to the front). Can anybody measure and tell me how much this can be done?

The bolts of my current fox transfer already contact the clamps and i actually need a tad more tilt. One of the bolts already snapped because of this.

Tnx in advance!


----------



## dba4life (Aug 26, 2011)

I now have the OneUp v2 installed on my 19 Bronson with the 2.1 actuator and it is working very well.

After living years with reverbs where I did not lift them up when lowered, is that necessary with the OneUp? Any other practices to avoid with this post to ensure maximum longevity?

The only service I can find is to remove the collar and re-grease. Is there an recommended interval for doing that? 

Thanks


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

I bought a150 mm dropper from uk, came with the old actuator. I ordered then the v2.1 actuator, and my mechanic said that when he installed it, it causes air to leak .

Anyone understands what the problem is?

He thinks the old actuator will work fine

Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

rod9301 said:


> I bought a150 mm dropper from uk, came with the old actuator. I ordered then the v2.1 actuator, and my mechanic said that when he installed it, it causes air to leak .
> 
> Anyone understands what the problem is?
> 
> ...


I didn't think this was a sealed part.
How long did it take you to get the actuator I'm still waiting for mine and where did you order from?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Just a follow up from when I got mine in August:

Flawless. 

I am re-using my old Race Face lever by just reversing the cable itself and cutting it short at the lever. The leverage isn't ideal, but it works for now. I will probably pick up a real OneUp lever soon, but I'm not in a super hurry. It also creaks a bit when climbing because it is literally bottomed out in my frame and I haven't pulled it out to grease it. 

So, other than everyone pointing out that I am compensating for something when I raise it, the only two complaints I have about it are directly my fault. 10/10; would buy again.


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

Just a follow up for me too. I Have received the V2.1 Actuator and fitted it (dead simple). Now sits 15mm lower in my frame at least so I would say a total success. Works flawlessly too. up to OneUp from me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dtheo (Sep 18, 2005)

does anyone find this post to be kind of finicky to drop? I feel like I have to put a bit more work to get on the front of the saddle to drop it compared to others. Anyone feel similar or not?


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

dtheo said:


> does anyone find this post to be kind of finicky to drop? I feel like I have to put a bit more work to get on the front of the saddle to drop it compared to others. Anyone feel similar or not?


No problems here, mine drops dead easy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

dtheo said:


> does anyone find this post to be kind of finicky to drop? I feel like I have to put a bit more work to get on the front of the saddle to drop it compared to others. Anyone feel similar or not?


The "wiper" is kinda snug, so I get some slow return when it's cold.

I fixed this problem by unscrewing the wiper, sliding it up a couple inches, then smearing a thin film of Slick Honey on the shaft, pushed the shaft down so the grease is below the level of the threads, then screwed the wiper back down.

Great post overall.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Nurse Ben said:


> The "wiper" is kinda snug, so I get some slow return when it's cold.
> 
> I fixed this problem by unscrewing the wiper, sliding it up a couple inches, then smearing a thin film of Slick Honey on the shaft, pushed the shaft down so the grease is below the level of the threads, then screwed the wiper back down.
> 
> Great post overall.


Maybe double check your air pressure as well. I few appear to have left the factory under pressure. the air valve is just under the saddle clamps. It should be 250-300psi depending on the return speed you like.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## MAX_C199 (Dec 16, 2017)

Just got my 210 on my new ripmo Af. I've paired it up with a pnw loam lever, but I've found when I push the lever past a certain point the actuator clicks. As well as this the dropper seems to have a bit of friction in the initial portion when returning from full drop. I've seen about people having to grease it up with suspension grease, but I don't have any currently. Is the packet of grease that the dropper came with for external or internal use?


----------



## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

MAX_C199 said:


> Just got my 210 on my new ripmo Af. I've paired it up with a pnw loam lever, but I've found when I push the lever past a certain point the actuator clicks. As well as this the dropper seems to have a bit of friction in the initial portion when returning from full drop. I've seen about people having to grease it up with suspension grease, but I don't have any currently. Is the packet of grease that the dropper came with for external or internal use?


Use the packet. Unscrew the collar. Press the post down a few inches and let it return. A bushing should pop up grease under it. Push the post down a few inches to put bushing back. It won't go back in fully extended.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I wish OneUp would label the packet of grease they include, or at least mention it somewhere. I didn't know exactly what it was until I opened it.


----------



## zambo78 (Mar 2, 2018)

Hi, i'm new to oneup V2 dropper... i've a 180mm V2 31.6
I've so far installed the V2.1 actuator and it was very simple..but is it normal that the v2.1 actuator when tightened is not "aligned" with the back graphics? i've tightened with very little force as was the original v2.0 when i removed it...

Second question: when it will be the time for a complete rebuild and regrease, or simply changing the cartridge, is there a complete guide with pictures? From what i see from the exploded diagram, I think that the main thing would be unscrew the cartridge from the lockring, then all will come apart... should i simply turn the cartridge by hand it it will unscrew from the lockring?


----------



## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

Just installed a 170mm post and very pleased. I've had multiple Reverbs, KS Lev, and Crank Brothers Highline is the one that I've been running and this post beats them all. Love the light action on the lever and I like that you can easily access the air valve, unlike other posts I've had.


----------



## DETarch (Feb 26, 2011)

Just got my 180mm + PNW Loam lever installed as well. It replaced a 150mm Fox Transfer and stock Fox lever. Overall, the Fox was smoother and seemed to have less 'stiction,' but for the price and 30mm extra travel, I'm very satisfied. Going to try and grease the bushing under the collar per the direction below to see if it helps.

PNW is my favorite lever I've used, FWIW. I've had a Wolftooth lever and the stock Reverb Southpaw and Transfer levers for comparison.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

We get a lot of requests to help people determine how much drop we can squeeze into their frame.

To help, we've created the following online tool. You just need two measurements and we'll even tell you how we stack up against the other guys.

I hope this community finds it useful.

STEP 1 - Measure Dimension X on your current post. This is your current ride height. The distance should be from the top of the seatpost collar to the middle of your saddle rails.

STEP 2 - Measure Dimension Y by inserting a rigid post or tape measure into your frame until it hits an obstruction.

All measurements are accurate to the best our our ability based on published dimensions of competitive posts. If you notice any errors please contact us.

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2










Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## AFWY (Dec 7, 2010)

Anyone fit a 180mm in a 2019 Large Carbon Transition smuggler?


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

Anyone have the collar back off randomly?



AFWY said:


> Anyone fit a 180mm in a 2019 Large Carbon Transition smuggler?


Don't know if this helps, but I'm pretty sure I could fully drop a 180 into a M Carbon Patrol.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

AFWY said:


> Anyone fit a 180mm in a 2019 Large Carbon Transition smuggler?


@AFWY - It will depend on how high you run the post. Checkout of dropper calculator to see.

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2



EatsDirt said:


> Anyone have the collar back off randomly?


@EatsDirt - Some of the first posts were assembled with a slightly undersized midcap oring. Part 8d on the following exploded drawing:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

email us at [email protected] referencing this conversation and we'll ship you replacement service part kit SP1C0051.

Alternatively, if you have a strap wrench a drop of blue loctite will keep it tight.


----------



## tomahawk66 (Sep 10, 2019)

@OneUp any plans to go even longer than 210 in future or do you think you're close to the maximum possible at 210?

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

tomahawk66 said:


> @OneUp any plans to go even longer than 210 in future or do you think you're close to the maximum possible at 210?


Never say never, but for the first time our best selling length isn't our longest. I think our industry leading length choices of 100-210mm in 10mm increments have the 99% percentile covered.

At 6'0" I run a 200mm (shimmed 210) setup on my Enduro rig and 180mm on my down-country bike.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

My bike came with a V1 and the collar has a lot of friction, is it possible to remove the brass pins so the collar can be removed and cleaned? It was ok until muddy winter riding so I assume some dirty water got in there. I regreased everything and its smooth and fast with the collar unscrewed, but with the collar on its slow and doesnt extend all the way 100% of the time even at 280psi. I tried working Sram Butter into the collar by wiggling it down the post and put a big glob of grease under it but it only lasts about 10 drops before its back to feeling dry.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

idividebyzero said:


> My bike came with a V1 and the collar has a lot of friction, is it possible to remove the brass pins so the collar can be removed and cleaned?


Sorry about the issue. Yes the brass keys can be removed using a pair of pliers (preferably a Knipex) but you should have replacements ready. I would recommend hitting us up a [email protected] for a replacement upper bushing (SP1C0062).

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

Hi Jon,
Is there a service document for the V2 post yet or is it still a case of following the V1 document linked above? Think mine needs doing in the near future.
Thanks


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

fathomer said:


> Hi Jon,
> Is there a service document for the V2 post yet or is it still a case of following the V1 document linked above? Think mine needs doing in the near future.
> Thanks


We have updated our service instructions. They are linked from the Dropper product page but I've put them below for easy access.

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean 
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-rebuild

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## fathomer (Apr 24, 2012)

OneUp said:


> We have updated our service instructions. They are linked from the Dropper product page but I've put them below for easy access.
> 
> https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean
> https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-rebuild
> ...


Thanks Jon, much appreciated :thumbsup:


----------



## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

OneUp said:


> Never say never, but for the first time our best selling length isn't our longest. I think our industry leading length choices of 100-210mm in 10mm increments have the 99% percentile covered.
> 
> At 6'0" I run a 200mm (shimmed 210) setup on my Enduro rig and 180mm on my down-country bike.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Seriously, 210mm is the same travel as a DH suspension fork, that's plenty!


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I'd happily go more. 
I reckon the future is posts that can move the saddle fore/aft on the fly.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## tomahawk66 (Sep 10, 2019)

Nurse Ben said:


> Seriously, 210mm is the same travel as a DH suspension fork, that's plenty!


When you put it like that...

Seriously, I think it's great that this big a drop is available, but also great that bike brands are producing large and XL frames with short seat posts. I'm not particularly tall at 185CM but the Ibis Ripmo AF I'm looking at has a 419mm seat post length which means even with the 210mm V2 I'll have it 38mm above the collar.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

OneUp said:


> We have updated our service instructions. They are linked from the Dropper product page but I've put them below for easy access.
> 
> https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean
> https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-rebuild
> ...


My 180 seems to be developing some lateral movement, is there an easy fix for this?
Thanks..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

DamianShep said:


> My 180 seems to be developing some lateral movement, is there an easy fix for this?
> Thanks..


Hey Damian,

We do have a simple kit to help you.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit-1

All dropper posts require some key way clearance. With so many different frames, clamps and ride heights it's not possible to ship play-free without running the risk of binding. This kit is meant to remove additional play that might develop over time or, for the more mechanically inclined, to tune the play out for a specific bike.

Start with the 3 pins marked with 2 lines. If play still exists move to the 3 pins marked with 4 lines.









I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^Are the extra pins that come with the post larger diameter? I plan to service mine and would like to tighten it up a bit while I'm in there. 

Big big fan of this post, I think it's the best value if not best post on the market right now. I see more and more people are having seat mast failures with the other popular brand at twice the cost.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

WHALENARD said:


> ^Are the extra pins that come with the post larger diameter? I plan to service mine and would like to tighten it up a bit while I'm in there.
> 
> Big big fan of this post, I think it's the best value if not best post on the market right now. I see more and more people are having seat mast failures with the other popular brand at twice the cost.


Thanks Whalenard!

The pins that come with the post are for travel adjustment. They are the same size as stock.

The oversized pin kit has two sets that are incrementally larger than stock.

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

OneUp said:


> Hey Damian,
> 
> We do have a simple kit to help you.
> 
> ...


Sorry have you got a link for a UK site? Also why should I pay for this, the dropper has play in it and I could surely warranty it... I like the dropper just curious..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

DamianShep said:


> Sorry have you got a link for a UK site? Also why should I pay for this, the dropper has play in it and I could surely warranty it... I like the dropper just curious..


Hey Damian,

Here is the UK site link.

https://uk.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit

There is some float in the system on purpose to keep things moving smoothly. That said, if you feel the play is excessive or unreasonable hit us up at [email protected] with some more info. If there is anything wrong with the post we'll make it right.

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## DamianShep (Oct 9, 2019)

OneUp said:


> Hey Damian,
> 
> Here is the UK site link.
> 
> ...


No worries, I ordered the kit.. I just have to fit it now...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cerpss (Sep 13, 2015)

I just ordered a 120mm post and a Wolftooth barcentric remote to go on a Scott Spark clone I'm building. Wolftooth said they tested this remote with the oneup and said it worked well but it's a different feel than an traditional under bar lever. Hopefully it doesn't take too much force. I currently use a specialized post and 2x compatible vertical grip lever so hopefully it's no worse or better than that


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

My v2 has started to stick with 5nm on clamp. If I go to 4nm it doesn’t stick but slips.its clean and have lubed with honey slick with no change. When I pull the collar up to lube, it is really tight movement on the seat post shaft even with lube and thinking this is the issue. Should the collar be really tight or move smoothly when unscrewed? Ideas appreciated.


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> My v2 has started to stick with 5nm on clamp..


Mine was getting super slow and hard to return to the top. Slathering some grease under the cap helped a little. But not enough. So I did the full tear down and saw that between the seal lips, the rubber was completely dry, no grease. So upon reassembly, I made sure to smear some around so when I put the seal cap back on the shaft it would have grease between the lips. I think the lower wiper was tight enough I wasn't getting much grease up in the seal when I would smear it under the cap before.

Now it pops up fast enough I need to be careful!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Mark16q said:


> My v2 has started to stick with 5nm on clamp.





stinkydogfart said:


> Mine was getting super slow and hard to return to the top.


Hey guys, sorry for the issues. Can you confirm that you checked the air pressure. Spec is 250-300psi.

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

My air pressure was fine. After cleaning and greasing everything I set the pressure to about 290 psi. It’s working great. Smooth and fast! It’s seen some hard riding since I got it in the fall, and quite dusty conditions so I figured the maintenance was justified.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Hey guys, sorry for the issues. Can you confirm that you checked the air pressure. Spec is 250-300psi.
> 
> I hope that helps,
> Jon @ OneUp


Put on the gauge and lost a lot of air so not sure what it was at. Had to try a few pumps as kept losing pressure but found one that worked. Pumped it to around 290, tightened clamp to 5nm and its working well. clearly it had lost pressure, any reason to think it may have a leak or is this normal ?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Mark16q said:


> Pumped it to around 290, tightened clamp to 5nm and its working well. clearly it had lost pressure, any reason to think it may have a leak or is this normal ?


Hey Mark,

All air systems will lose air over time but this should be more of an annual check or as needed. The posts are shipped and stored for as much as 3-4 months. They are also stored partially compressed where the internal pressure is higher. As such, we recommend checking the pressure when the post is first installed. If you are continuing to lose air regularly hit us up at [email protected].

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Hey Mark,
> 
> All air systems will lose air over time but this should be more of an annual check or as needed. The posts are shipped and stored for as much as 3-4 months. They are also stored partially compressed where the internal pressure is higher. As such, we recommend checking the pressure when the post is first installed. If you are continuing to lose air regularly hit us up at [email protected].
> 
> ...


Thanks Jon, appreciate the follow-up. Thinking mine might have arrived on the low side, as it's returning much better now than ever. Do you recommend a particular pump that doesn't lose air on removal? I've got various fox pumps and they all were hard to keep the air in when I pulled them off.

Thanks again,

Mark


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Mark16q said:


> Thanks Jon, appreciate the follow-up. Thinking mine might have arrived on the low side, as it's returning much better now than ever. Do you recommend a particular pump that doesn't lose air on removal? I've got various fox pumps and they all were hard to keep the air in when I pulled them off.


Good to hear!

The air you hear escaping is actually from the pump hose not the dropper itself. When removing, the dropper valve closes before the pump unseals. This is also why the pressure looks lower when you attach the pump - the hose is filled with air from the post so the pressure drops (usually about 20psi).

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

OneUp said:


> Good to hear!
> 
> The air you hear escaping is actually from the pump hose not the dropper itself. When removing, the dropper valve closes before the pump unseals. This is also why the pressure looks lower when you attach the pump - the hose is filled with air from the post so the pressure drops (usually about 20psi).
> 
> ...


while I know that's supposed to be the case, with 2 of my pumps the post didn't have enough pressure to even lift at all. When I took it off, it was more of a psssssssssssh vs. pfffft. So thinking the pump isn't working right. These were the pumps that fox gave for free. What do you like and I'll buy a new that should operate as designed. Thanks!

Mark


----------



## glockrocket17 (Aug 26, 2015)

I have a bontrager pump that works good. Any pump that has a release at the should work to keep the air in the component. Then when you release it the only air you lose is the air in the hose.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chicane32 (Jul 12, 2015)

I have to add air every 2-3 months when my post slows down. Non issue for me.


----------



## MikeInPA (Mar 18, 2017)

Jon -

FYI what follows is the latest in a back-and-forth with Corey at OneUp. He's been trying to help, but I thought I'd give you a crack at solving my issue. Thanks!

"_Corey -

Here's what I can tell you: The bike I'm having the issue with is a Trek Fuel EX 9.9. I have an EX8 with a V1 OneUp on it and it's butter smooth by comparison. On that bike I use the OneUp lever.

-- The 9.9 is factory new, but just to be sure I replaced the housing with SRAM shifter housing and a new cable for about a 5% improvement.

-- I routed the cable the only way it can be routed; I know it's proper.

-- The V2 actuator .... the actual part at the bottom of the dropper itself.... is VERY stiff. It's very difficult to move by hand. I have other droppers (like the stock Bontrager) to compare it to, and it's just plane stiff. In other words, it takes a hell of a lot of force to actuate the dropper, so much that it completely overwhelms a Wolf Tooth (style) lever every time. Impossible to use that lever. I am currently using the stock Bontrager lever with the V2, and while it works, I have to say that it's simply unpleasant to operate, especially compared to my V1 with the OneUp lever.

I have of course thought of swapping levers out, sacrificing the sweet action on the EX8/V1/OneUp lever setup to try to get the 9.9 with the V2 operating decently, but I don't want to do this. I am also not convinced that just buying a OneUp lever for it will cure the issue, because it's just too damn stiff. I don't want to keep throwing money at the issue. I don't think any lever will be up to the task of actuating this dropper without very heavy thumb pressure. And like I said, it makes using certain levers impossible; the cable will slip under the pinch bolt/washer. The Bontrager lever uses a small allen bolt that pinches the cable very directly and it's very secure.....however, next will be a broken cable (my prediction.)

Also, please remember that the heavy pressure required is constant, but it's made much worse if I have my weight on the seat. Much worse.

Thanks for looking into this,

MikeInPA
_


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

MikeInPA said:


> Jon -
> 
> FYI what follows is the latest in a back-and-forth with Corey at OneUp. He's been trying to help, but I thought I'd give you a crack at solving my issue. Thanks!


Hey Mike,

Corey is right here beside me and even mentioned it to me. It sounds like the actuator might have been damaged if it's that hard to move. I'll let him continue on e-mail in the interest of having the info all in one place. Regardless we'll get you sorted.

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## MikeInPA (Mar 18, 2017)

OneUp said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Corey is right here beside me and even mentioned it to me. It sounds like the actuator might have been damaged if it's that hard to move. I'll let him continue on e-mail in the interest of having the info all in one place. Regardless we'll get you sorted.
> 
> ...


Hi Jon -

Thanks....yeah, Corey got back to me really quickly, right after I posted here. He is sending a lever for me to try (which is a very generous move that I really appreciate!) If it's still too stiff, I will take the actuator out and look it over carefully and get back to you guys.

Goes without saying, but you guys are awesome!

Mike


----------



## Maxis (Jan 29, 2016)

Hi Guys,

anyone has had problems using the V2 remote with I-Spec EV?

I bought the V2 Remote to mount on my new brakes with I Spec EV and i can't find a good thumb position, the level is to far way from the thumb :???:


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Maxis said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> anyone has had problems using the V2 remote with I-Spec EV?


Sorry for the issue. Our original EV lever was only XTR compatible because Shimano shortened the adjustment slot on XT and SLX. As such, we had to redesign the part.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/small-parts/products/dropper-remote-clamp-i-spec-ev-v2

Hit us up at [email protected] if you have any questions.

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## MikeInPA (Mar 18, 2017)

OneUp said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Corey is right here beside me and even mentioned it to me. It sounds like the actuator might have been damaged if it's that hard to move. I'll let him continue on e-mail in the interest of having the info all in one place. Regardless we'll get you sorted.
> 
> ...


Hi Jon -

Corey sent a lever as well as a new actuator. Excellent improvement with just the new actuator, but the lever really sealed the deal. There's still just a bit of resistance when my weight is on the seat, but nowhere near what it was, and not nearly enough to make the cable slip like it did several times before.

OneUp for the win!

Thanks!!!


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Hey OneUp

I've got maybe 2-3mm of vertical play in my post when I pull up on my seat. Perfectly fine when at top of travel. 

Thoughts?

Cheers


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

northvanguy said:


> Hey OneUp
> 
> I've got maybe 2-3mm of vertical play in my post when I pull up on my seat. Perfectly fine when at top of travel.
> 
> ...


Nevermind... It's that stupid little nut feature around the shraeder valve that keeps coming loose... especially when I take my shock pump off....seems to loosen it off.

Any suggestions for getting that tight? What position should post be in to get it tightest? What do you use?

Cheers


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Nevermind... It's that stupid little nut feature around the shraeder valve that keeps coming loose... especially when I take my shock pump off....seems to loosen it off.
> 
> Any suggestions for getting that tight? What position should post be in to get it tightest? What do you use?
> 
> Cheers


Sorry you hear that. You should tighten it when fully extended. The best home tool is a pair of needle nose pliers.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Little loctite or nah?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Little loctite or nah?


I little bit of blue loctite would be ok if it continues to loosen. Honestly I've not heard of them loosening after being fully tightened.

Cheers,
Jon


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Hey OneUp,

I just got my v2 150mm post installed and so far seems great, I’m looking forward to riding with it soon. However I do have a question about rotating the actuator. My seat tube has a bend where the suspension rocker axle passes, and the axle passes through the seat tube towards the front of the bike. The actuator on my post when fully tightened points the cable housing right into the axle and there is no room for the housing to pass between the axle and seat tube wall. If the actuator is rotated towards the back of the bike, the angle of the cable housing is perfect to pass behind the axle. Is it possible to rotate the internals/upper tube of the dropper so that the actuator can point the cable housing towards the rear of the bike while allowing the actuator to be fully tightened in place? Or do you have a suggestion to lock the actuator in place when loosened a half turn?

For now I have it loosened a half turn to get it to fit, planning to revisit it tomorrow to try and figure something out. 

Thanks!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Nickbm3 said:


> Is it possible to rotate the internals/upper tube of the dropper so that the actuator can point the cable housing towards the rear of the bike while allowing the actuator to be fully tightened in place? Or do you have a suggestion to lock the actuator in place when loosened a half turn?


Hey Nick,

I don't recommend running the actuator loose a half turn. If you choose to go that route you should at least apply a blue loctite to the threads.

You could remove the lower tube and reorient it by 60, 120 or 180 degrees. The laser logo would no longer be in line with the back of the bike but it would help.

You would just need to follow these instructions and rotate the lower tube on step 7.

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Thanks Jon. I ended up reorienting the lower tube which worked perfectly. 

Got a few rides in this weekend. Love the post, it’s so much better than the reverb I was using.


----------



## Agar426 (May 29, 2009)

I like to run the dropper as low as I can go so that when it's dropped, it's as low as possible. Unfortunately, with the Fox Transfer 150mm dropper, when it's fully extended, it's probably 10mm, if not 20mm short of ideal pedal stroke length. Obviously, I could simply raise the post up. This brings me to my question:

Can I run the 180mm dropper in the size medium Yeti SB140 frame, and have it slammed as far as it can go? The inserted length of the 150mm transfer post, according to the drawings, is 245mm, 273.7 if you measure to the end of the actuator. According to Oneup's web site, the 180mm dropper is 252mm, 267mm to the end of the actuator. However, the Yeti owner's handbook states that 245mm is the max insertion length, and the drawing it uses shows the 245mm measurement to the end of the actuator, so it doesn't jive with the Fox drawings. I am thinking I would only be able to insert the Oneup to the 245mm distance, leaving 7mm exposed, which would still be fine I believe. 

I think that the 180mm dropper, with the option to shim it down to 160, will give me the best option to get both, a dropped seat that is as low as it can go, as well as an extended length that will optimize the pedal stroke.

Thank you!


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Agar426 said:


> I like to run the dropper as low as I can go so that when it's dropped, it's as low as possible. Unfortunately, with the Fox Transfer 150mm dropper, when it's fully extended, it's probably 10mm, if not 20mm short of ideal pedal stroke length. Obviously, I could simply raise the post up. This brings me to my question:
> 
> Can I run the 180mm dropper in the size medium Yeti SB140 frame, and have it slammed as far as it can go?


The best option is for you to check out handy dropper post length selector.

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2

From what you said here are my assumptions.
- Slammed fox 150 is 10mm too low. so your X is 220mm
- You can slam a 150 transfer into the frame so Y is at least 273.7mm

If those are both correct then the calculator say 180mm.









I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## Agar426 (May 29, 2009)

OneUp said:


> The best option is for you to check out handy dropper post length selector.
> 
> https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2
> 
> ...


Awesome Jon, thank you very much!!


----------



## linclinc (Jan 10, 2019)

*Forward offset head. Pretty please.*

@oneup Any chance of releasing a forward offset head? Maybe like the 9-point-8 forehead?

My seat is slammed forward in the rails and I'm still not in the position I want to be when climbing seated. It's a long legs problem, but also an issue for 'normal' people increasingly riding uphill on longer travel bikes running proper sag. You end up with very slack seat angles - even on modern geo frames.

Pretty please, would be the best little upgrade ever.


----------



## JimmyC (Dec 19, 2005)

A big plus one for linclinc’s idea.


----------



## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Hi Jon,

I purchased a OneUp post from a shop (Edgar Bikes) Feb of this year. I have noticed the last 5-6 weeks, the collar (nut) keeps coming loose after about 1-2 weeks of riding. I have the 180 dropper on my XL Tallboy. I still have about 4 inches of exposed post so I do not clamp on it when it goes in the stand.

FWIW, EdgarBikes (Mike K) is shifting away from retail and focusing on custom suspension tuning.

Any suggestions of how to keep it from loosening? Blue LocTite? Some grease? I have a nice new Knipex wrench I use to tighten it about as much as I feel comfortable tighten it.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

mbcracken said:


> Hi Jon,
> 
> I purchased a OneUp post from a shop (Edgar Bikes) Feb of this year. I have noticed the last 5-6 weeks, the collar (nut) keeps coming loose after about 1-2 weeks of riding. I have the 180 dropper on my XL Tallboy. I still have about 4 inches of exposed post so I do not clamp on it when it goes in the stand.
> 
> ...


Sorry about that man. We had a few early V2s go out with an undersized collar oring (8d in the following exploded view).

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...9284.471822565.1588096404-48126078.1561583738

Hit us up at [email protected] and ask for SP1C0051 which includes the correct oring.

I hope that helps,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## mbcracken (Aug 12, 2006)

Thanks Jon...emailed you guys. 👍


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

To follow up an earlier post where my v2 wasn’t reliably returning, my shock pumps couldn’t get over 250 psi which wasn’t enough. Just received Topeak pump with pressure release, aired it up to 290 and it’s perfect. Interestingly it’s even more consistent going down. Wish I didn’t have to take the seat off to do this, but still better than having to return it for repair. Maybe v3 can have easier access to the valve..

Now if they would just open all the trails I could really enjoy it.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Took mine apart for the first time and serviced it for the season. Man is this thing dead simple, even down to only using 3 keys. Easily the most simple one I've worked on, very clever. I especially like how the actuator is attached, sturdy, clever, dead simple and then all threads into the body = fewer parts and **** to go wrong. I also like how the seat mast and bolt/nuts are built. This post is a winner for sure and after having apart will be my go to recommendation for a dropper . Kuddos Oneup.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

My V2 210mm was getting a little slow to return after 8mo or so. After a bike wash it wasn't coming all the way up. I unscrewed the post's collar and the seal wasn't moving smoothly. I used my fingernail to remove some of the gunk in it (not sure if it was helpful or not) and then put some slick honey under the seal then slid it up and down a bit. Also put some slick honey under/over the bushing etc. All very standard stuff, took less than 5 minutes. After that it was popping up good as new with 280 PSI. Love this thing, it just plain works.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

WHALENARD said:


> Took mine apart for the first time and serviced it for the season. Man is this thing dead simple, even down to only using 3 keys. Easily the most simple one I've worked on, very clever. I especially like how the actuator is attached, sturdy, clever, dead simple and then all threads into the body = fewer parts and **** to go wrong. I also like how the seat mast and bolt/nuts are built. This post is a winner for sure and after having apart will be my go to recommendation for a dropper . Kuddos Oneup.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk





svinyard said:


> My V2 210mm was getting a little slow to return after 8mo or so. After a bike wash it wasn't coming all the way up. I unscrewed the post's collar and the seal wasn't moving smoothly. I used my fingernail to remove some of the gunk in it (not sure if it was helpful or not) and then put some slick honey under the seal then slid it up and down a bit. Also put some slick honey under/over the bushing etc. All very standard stuff, took less than 5 minutes. After that it was popping up good as new with 280 PSI. Love this thing, it just plain works.


Thanks for the feedback guys!

Cheers,
Jon @ OneUp


----------



## zambo78 (Mar 2, 2018)

OneUp said:


> Sorry about that man. We had a few early V2s go out with an undersized collar oring (8d in the following exploded view).
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...9284.471822565.1588096404-48126078.1561583738
> 
> ...


Hi Oneup... i have from December 2019(bought online) a 180 V2 (and then i bought from your official website only the upgraded v2.1 actuator)

i have the problem that the dropper doesn't return to full extended by itself. After reading and watching i've also seen that the problem is the collar... also without the seal spring, and with the collar unthreaded it goes up and down really difficult by hand on the tube... 
With the collar off and putted on top, the dropper return to full up perfectly with lots of power!!!! I don't expect any sagging when riding... so i suppose the problem seem really the collar sealing.... so tight.
I do the basic lubricate maintenance every 2/3 rides, and from the beginning i've seen that the seal collar was soo tight also when new...but it worked....
I've try to lubricate it, remove the seal spring, try to lubricate inside, but not working..
Maybe i have the defective seal collar? That is too tight? (my 2 previous KS dropper when unthreaded the collar goes up and down with ease)
Should i do a complete rebuild?
The pressure seem good, but to check it, should i only remove the saddle and the i can remove the valve cover or should i disassemble the entire dropper?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

zambo78 said:


> Hi Oneup... i have from December 2019(bought online) a 180 V2 (and then i bought from your official website only the upgraded v2.1 actuator)
> 
> i have the problem that the dropper doesn't return to full extended by itself. After reading and watching i've also seen that the problem is the collar... also without the seal spring, and with the collar unthreaded it goes up and down really difficult by hand on the tube...
> With the collar off and putted on top, the dropper return to full up perfectly with lots of power!!!! I don't expect any sagging when riding... so i suppose the problem seem really the collar sealing.... so tight.
> ...


This is is going to be air pressure. When the post is fully extended pump the cartridge to 250-300psi.

I hope that helps,
Jon


----------



## zambo78 (Mar 2, 2018)

OneUp said:


> This is is going to be air pressure. When the post is fully extended pump the cartridge to 250-300psi.
> 
> I hope that helps,
> Jon


Thank you, tomorrow i will try and i will let you know if it's pressure low, or if it's the collar that is binding..
Do i only need to remove saddle? The part 5 (valve cover) is only fixed by "pressure" and i can remove it simply with some pliers and access directly to the valve?

By the way... fantastic dropper.. i'm happy since now, i hope to solve this..cause i don't want a dropper from another brand... i love the oneup features and support:thumbsup:


----------



## terrasmak (Jun 14, 2011)

Put the 180 on my bike and on install I knew it would be close so I ran it right on the collar. Would not work, had to raise the post 1/4 inch to get it to come back up when compressed.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

zambo78 said:


> I do the basic lubricate maintenance every 2/3 rides, and from the beginning i've seen that the seal collar was soo tight also when new...but it worked....
> I've try to lubricate it, remove the seal spring, try to lubricate inside, but not working..
> Maybe i have the defective seal collar? That is too tight? (my 2 previous KS dropper when unthreaded the collar goes up and down with ease)
> Should i do a complete rebuild?
> The pressure seem good, but to check it, should i only remove the saddle and the i can remove the valve cover or should i disassemble the entire dropper?


I've got a new 210 v2 2020 dropper. The collar is definitely too tight, need a hard push by hand to move it along the stanchion. Moreover it doesn't prevent a dust to get inside, after ~50hrs the post began to return slowly... cleaning and regreasing reverted it back.

Seems the seal in the mid cap assembly needs an improvement.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

zambo78 said:


> Thank you, tomorrow i will try and i will let you know if it's pressure low, or if it's the collar that is binding..
> Do i only need to remove saddle? The part 5 (valve cover) is only fixed by "pressure" and i can remove it simply with some pliers and access directly to the valve?
> 
> By the way... fantastic dropper.. i'm happy since now, i hope to solve this..cause i don't want a dropper from another brand... i love the oneup features and support:thumbsup:


Sorry for the curt response I was travelling and unable to explain fully.

I am confident that the issue is only air. Did you check the air when it was first installed? The part is stored compressed and often shipped via air a few times.

Simply remove the clamps (Items 1-5 of the following link) to access the air valve. The pressure should be 250-300psi when fully extended.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

If that does not completely solve the issue the following procedure can be used to add grease. The post came with a satchel of slickoleum grease.
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/dropper-post-v2-service-clean


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

accordnick said:


> I've got a new 210 v2 2020 dropper. The collar is definitely too tight, need a hard push by hand to move it along the stanchion. Moreover it doesn't prevent a dust to get inside, after ~50hrs the post began to return slowly... cleaning and regreasing reverted it back.
> 
> Seems the seal in the mid cap assembly needs an improvement.


I've had the 210mm for almost a year now. Completely maintenance free until two weeks ago. After a wet ride 2wks ago and cleaning the bike, the post struggled to come up. The collar seal was preventing full extension because things were a bit dried out or something to that effect. When I unscrewed the collar, it was difficult to slide it (collar/dust seal) up and down the station. I cleaned the bushing (which wasn't really dirty) and greased everything lightly with Slick Honey. Good as new after that. The collar dust seal does seem to be rather snug tho for better or worse. It was keeping dirt/gunk out of the post. It was even removing the grease as I moved it up and down after greasing it. Regardless it's had no impact on the posts function (@280 PSI). The post will still snap up and even if my shorts or leg are in the way. I've only ever had to grease it that one time. I'm guessing your post might have needed a little re-greasing when you got it new.


----------



## holler (May 18, 2020)

Hi Jon, 

I’ve been riding the 150mm v2 dropper with the 2.1 actuator for a hand full of rides now. The dropper is otherwise working fine (swift movement up and down when actuated). In addition the post creeps up slowly when fully lowered and can be pulled up with very little resistance. I would expect the post to stay slammed when dropped and not nudged, if I briefly move the bike by the seat.

I (double) checked the cable today that it is not crammed in the tubes nor overtightened. I left a little bit play on the (One Up) lever to make sure that the it’s not tight.

What should I check next?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

svinyard said:


> The post will still snap up and even if my shorts or leg are in the way. I've only ever had to grease it that one time. I'm guessing your post might have needed a little re-greasing when you got it new.


I've done the first cleaning and re-greasing at ~15 hrs. Maybe I'm too strict but compared to BikeYoke Revive this post requires more frequent maintenance and not so smooth even after the service. The tight seal seems one of the reasons.


----------



## zambo78 (Mar 2, 2018)

OneUp said:


> Sorry for the curt response I was travelling and unable to explain fully.
> 
> I am confident that the issue is only air. Did you check the air when it was first installed? The part is stored compressed and often shipped via air a few times.
> 
> ...


HI,
checked the pressure was 150psi... pump it to 260psi and now it goes up quickly with force!
The post is ok, but i'm still asking me why the seal is always been so tight?
Every time a wash the bike i do a quick service to the dropper(as your video tutorial) by regreasing with sram butter grease the inner white spacer and the seal collar... it really seems that it's dry in the "inside", and it needs to go off the shaft so you can apply with your finger some grease in the "inside".. (don't know if i've explained correctly my idea, i'm not english)..

P.S. for who want or need to check periodically the air pressure: you can remove the saddle and not loose your tilt settings, simply removing completely the back screw and nut, then tilt to forward the upper clamp and slide off the lower clamp and the saddle. You have now access to the air valve. As the front screw remain at the same setting, you can then have your saddle almost as it was before.


----------



## holler (May 18, 2020)

holler said:


> Hi Jon,
> 
> ...
> 
> What should I check next?


Today I checked the pressure and the collar on the lower tube. Pressure looks good and the collar is very tight. Didn't get it loose with my hands only.

Jon, is this how the droppers are intended to function?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

holler said:


> Today I checked the pressure and the collar on the lower tube. Pressure looks good and the collar is very tight. Didn't get it loose with my hands only.
> 
> Jon, is this how the droppers are intended to function?


That does sound strange. We may need to send you a replacement cartridge if that is the case. e-mail us at [email protected] and reference this discussion. Whatever the issue is we'll get you sorted.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## holler (May 18, 2020)

Thanks Jon. The email is on its way.


----------



## IPA Rider (Aug 24, 2008)

1up website tells me the V2 180mm 31.6 is sold out...what is the word on availability?

thanks....


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

I’m getting a noticeable amount of play on mine, can feel it easily when riding. Not so much a rocking motion but more a turning feel. Everything lubed and snug. When new this was not an issue. What might be worn here?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Mark16q said:


> I'm getting a noticeable amount of play on mine, can feel it easily when riding. Not so much a rocking motion but more a turning feel. Everything lubed and snug. When new this was not an issue. What might be worn here?


Look at post #293 in this thread to see OneUps response/solution.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

svinyard said:


> Look at post #293 in this thread to see OneUps response/solution.


Thanks for the info. I scrolled quite a bit back, but not that far. Does less than a year-old in dry weather conditions seem right for this? It became noticeable rather abruptly too. I don't mind the $12 if that is what it takes, but I am gentle on my gear and maintain it, so the play is a bit surprising.

Mark


----------



## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

@oneup and anyone else who could help here

I'm running a 210 v2 oneup on my new large SC Hightower 2 CC.I built the bike 3 weeks ago with no dropper issues.The last couple of days the dropper started to have problems,sinking slowly when sitting full extented and the slowly returning when fully pushed down.

I've checked today to my LBS and when we pulled it out of the frame we've found this:

The paint gone on that spot and i don't know why.The function issue still remaining,thought initially it was something with cable tension but nope..I'm using Wolftooth's LA remote.


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

I have a 150 dropper.
It doesn't go deep enough in the seat tube , so it's about 1/4 inch too high when it's fully extended.

They talk about adjusting the travel.

Would the adjustment prevent the seat from rising to the very top?

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

Fitted a 180 dropper into my Titan and install was pretty painless but I do have one gripe. The dropper refuses to budge with any weight on the seat. I have to completely unweight before the mechanism will release and then it retracts. Is this normal behaviour for this post? 
I'm running a standard action wolftooth lever which apparently isn't ideal after reading post #88 from John @ Oneup but I went with Wolftooth's recommendation on their site. The post has 300psi in it and I've greased it prior to install.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

rod9301 said:


> I have a 150 dropper.
> It doesn't go deep enough in the seat tube , so it's about 1/4 inch too high when it's fully extended.
> 
> They talk about adjusting the travel.
> ...


It depends what you mean by "very top." The adjustment would essentially set a new "very top" which would be less than the old "very top." Your post just wouldn't have 150mm of travel any more.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

springs said:


> Fitted a 180 dropper into my Titan and install was pretty painless but I do have one gripe. The dropper refuses to budge with any weight on the seat. I have to completely unweight before the mechanism will release and then it retracts. Is this normal behaviour for this post?
> I'm running a standard action wolftooth lever which apparently isn't ideal after reading post #88 from John @ Oneup but I went with Wolftooth's recommendation on their site. The post has 300psi in it and I've greased it prior to install.


My v2 210 isn't like that. It'd be annoying for sure. Drop your PSI down to like 270 and "overgrease" it. Maybe try tuning your cable's barrel adjuster to remove or add slack to it as an experiment. I've had my v2 post (wolftooth LA remote) for almost a year and the one thing I've learned, when needing to grease it after 9mo of use, is that you want to "overgrease" it everywhere. That's my annecdotal experience at least. I don't think there is a downside to it. Worth a shot


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^ Mine isn't like that either and those are good suggestions. I'd wager it's in the actuator. Try a drop of oil in there and actuate it a bunch of times while looking at it. Could be a burr or something from when it was machined or installed. 

*Also make sure the actuator isn't making contact with anything and recheck your cable tension as the above poster mentions^. Sounds like the actuator is not fully engaging. 
Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## dooner (Jan 20, 2004)

I just installed a 150 v2 on my wife's Yeti SB5 and it is binding badly when fully inserted to the top of the seattube. If I pull it out at least 6mm it is fine but then we'd have to reduce travel down to 130mm. 

Anyone else have this issue and is there a fix?


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

dooner said:


> I just installed a 150 v2 on my wife's Yeti SB5 and it is binding badly when fully inserted to the top of the seattube. If I pull it out at least 6mm it is fine but then we'd have to reduce travel down to 130mm.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue and is there a fix?


The actuator is contacting or the cable is binding. I think, but am not sure, you can rotate the actuator 180° which may or may not net you more clearance.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## dooner (Jan 20, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> The actuator is contacting or the cable is binding. I think, but am not sure, you can rotate the actuator 180° which may or may not net you more clearance.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


Sorry, I should clarify that it is binding when the seatpost collar is tightened. It does not bind when fully inserted with the collar bolt loosened.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

dooner said:


> Sorry, I should clarify that it is binding when the seatpost collar is tightened. It does not bind when fully inserted with the collar bolt loosened.


Ha, that changes things.
This may or may not work but worth a shot. There is a plastic collar that I assume is to stop the pins from slamming the upper bushing. You're most likely cinching the seat collar right on it. Try unscrewing the the upper bushing (threaded, spins right off) and pushing down that plastic collar past where the seatpost collar engages the seatpost. Tighten the seatpost collar and rethread on the the upper bushing assembly. Again, not sure if that's your issue but my best guess and would take a minute to see if it solves the problem.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

svinyard said:


> My v2 210 isn't like that. It'd be annoying for sure. Drop your PSI down to like 270 and "overgrease" it. Maybe try tuning your cable's barrel adjuster to remove or add slack to it as an experiment. I've had my v2 post (wolftooth LA remote) for almost a year and the one thing I've learned, when needing to grease it after 9mo of use, is that you want to "overgrease" it everywhere. That's my annecdotal experience at least. I don't think there is a downside to it. Worth a shot





WHALENARD said:


> ^ Mine isn't like that either and those are good suggestions. I'd wager it's in the actuator. Try a drop of oil in there and actuate it a bunch of times while looking at it. Could be a burr or something from when it was machined or installed.
> 
> *Also make sure the actuator isn't making contact with anything and recheck your cable tension as the above poster mentions^. Sounds like the actuator is not fully engaging.
> Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


Thanks for the replies. To recap what I've done....greased the life out if it prior to install after reading the posts on here. Checked cable routing and tension. Tried with no slack and too much slack. Actuator functioning well and not fouling on anything....it can be relatively easily activated by hand out of the bike.

Once it's all back together it functions really well until weight is on the seat. I reduced the pressure to 250psi and this helped a little but it still holds on until I take weight off. I didn't think it would be annoying but on the trail it definitely is.

Any comment [email protected]??


----------



## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Are you emailing customer service? That seems to be the best way (surprise!) to get your problems resolved.


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

cassieno said:


> Are you emailing customer service? That seems to be the best way (surprise!) to get your problems resolved.


Yes mate but no harm in asking if others have experienced the same thing.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

I recently got a 210mm v2.1 

When I’m extending the post, I find it makes a sort of hollow empty sound as it extends? Is this normal? Almost a bit rattle like as it hits the top? 

Also if I sit on the post at full extension after a while if I stand off the saddle and press the remote the post extends or at least clicks like it’s gone up again? As though it’s sagged a little?


----------



## cacatous (Dec 1, 2013)

Hey all,

Has anyone had to replace a cartridge yet? I'm trying to work out the real cost of the post over a couple of years.

If I need two cartridges (AU$200) over a 2 year period then should I consider a Bike Yoke or Rockshox Reverb C1 instead?


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

hambocairns said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Has anyone had to replace a cartridge yet? I'm trying to work out the real cost of the post over a couple of years.
> 
> If I need two cartridges (AU$200) over a 2 year period then should I consider a Bike Yoke or Rockshox Reverb C1 instead?


The cartridge in mine just failed. I've had it for just under a year. There is a problem with the brake. OneUp has already sent out a warranty replacement. OneUp is a great company with great communication. I would and will buy another for my other bike at some point when it's dropper fails.

Don't OneUp Droppers come with a 2 year warranty?

I have had nothing but trouble with Reverbs in the past so hands down OneUp is better. I have no experience with Bike Yoke.


----------



## cacatous (Dec 1, 2013)

So it sounds like a cartridge should last at least a couple of years. I wasn't sure if there's an official expected lifespan for one.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I have a 2013 KS LEV that still works just fine with original cartridge. It has a gazillion hard miles on it. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## cacatous (Dec 1, 2013)

Oh wow, so it's almost the 'lifetime' of the dropper then. OK sounds like a good value product then.


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Weird issue I've been having with mine that I've not read about yet.
Mine makes a loud audible squeak when I lower and raise it. Sounds like letting air out of a balloon while stretching the balloon's mouth. 

The sound is coming from the cartridge. I've completely removed the outer tube and cycled the post up and down on the floor. Other than the noise, the posts is working as normal. Extension is fast and smooth and dropping it doesn't take much effort. 

I see that a new cartridge is $60 but they are out of stock on the 150mm cartridge.

Mine is still under the 2 year warranty. Bought it from Jenson so I've emailed them last week. If they don't reply, should I contact OneUp?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

the-one1 said:


> Weird issue I've been having with mine that I've not read about yet.
> Mine makes a loud audible squeak when I lower and raise it. Sounds like letting air out of a balloon while stretching the balloon's mouth.
> 
> The sound is coming from the cartridge. I've completely removed the outer tube and cycled the post up and down on the floor. Other than the noise, the posts is working as normal. Extension is fast and smooth and dropping it doesn't take much effort.


The same "wheeeep" noise while lowering. My dropper post is 210 mm and 1600 km old.


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

accordnick said:


> The same "wheeeep" noise while lowering. My dropper post is 210 mm and 1600 km old.


What did you end up doing about it?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

the-one1 said:


> What did you end up doing about it?


Nothing yet. It's still about 1.5 years of warranty and I have a backup dropper. )


----------



## Wazzatron (Apr 24, 2013)

stinkydogfart said:


> The cartridge in mine just failed. I've had it for just under a year. There is a problem with the brake. OneUp has already sent out a warranty replacement. OneUp is a great company with great communication. I would and will buy another for my other bike at some point when it's dropper fails.
> 
> Don't OneUp Droppers come with a 2 year warranty?
> 
> I have had nothing but trouble with Reverbs in the past so hands down OneUp is better. I have no experience with Bike Yoke.


Man I need to speak to who ever you did...

My first 210mm dropper's cartridge is failing (after 8 months). The thing will not stay put and the guy I'm speaking to at Oneup just keeps sending me the service guides.

My second 210mm OneUp dropper which is less than a month old on my other bike will not stay fully extended and when it's fully down it slowly creeps up. This started today. I've made sure the actuator isn't being slightly activated.

My first one, I've taken the cartridge out and depressed it on the bench only to watch it slowly extend without any actuator attached.

Starting to lose my patience with this company, but it sounds like I'm just not speaking to the right person.


----------



## Jesse Hill (Dec 29, 2006)

```

```



Wazzatron said:


> Man I need to speak to who ever you did...
> 
> My first 210mm dropper's cartridge is failing (after 8 months). The thing will not stay put and the guy I'm speaking to at Oneup just keeps sending me the service guides.
> 
> ...


Yea you definitely got the wrong person. Their support has been nothing short of awesome when I've dealt with them.


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

Wazzatron said:


> Man I need to speak.


Just to verify, you are communicating directly with OneUp, right?

I tried Where I bought mine from and they were useless. The OneUp guys have been Aces!

When I first communicated with them they sent me links to instructions in order to help diagnose the issue. Once going step by step through the trouble shooting they took care of me.


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

accordnick said:


> Nothing yet. It's still about 1.5 years of warranty and I have a backup dropper. )


*Update. I sent a warranty request to Jenson (place I bought it from), no reply. Also sent Oneup an email, they replied next day. I have a new cartridge in the mail from Oneup. All I had to do was describe the problem, describe my troubleshooting steps, provide receipt and address.


----------



## Wazzatron (Apr 24, 2013)

stinkydogfart said:


> Just to verify, you are communicating directly with OneUp, right?
> 
> I tried Where I bought mine from and they were useless. The OneUp guys have been Aces!
> 
> When I first communicated with them they sent me links to instructions in order to help diagnose the issue. Once going step by step through the trouble shooting they took care of me.


Yeah I'm speaking to OneUp directly. I've learned with bike parts to always go straight to the manufacturer. Your reply gives me some hope. Maybe I'll start a fresh email and hopefully get some one different.


----------



## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

My Oneup V2 was sticky (i.e. got stuck down in the travel then started scratching the stanchion). I tried it for 6 months it never really improved, emailed OneUp, they sent me a new one, and it's fine now.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Sorry to hear about the issues guys and specifically the run-around Wazzatron. The rising on its own is a weird one. Our Customer service goal is pretty much "Make it right". We do ask for some troubleshooting checks first but if there is a fault in the product we'll replace it (even if you didn't buy direct from us).

Wazzatron - PM me your Name and I'll look into it.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

the-one1 said:


> *Update. I sent a warranty request to Jenson (place I bought it from), no reply. Also sent Oneup an email, they replied next day. I have a new cartridge in the mail from Oneup. All I had to do was describe the problem, describe my troubleshooting steps, provide receipt and address.


Thank you for keeping us informed. Seems One Up has very good support team. I'll send them an email.


----------



## Wazzatron (Apr 24, 2013)

I'm happy to report that 2 new cartridges are on their way from OneUp. Thanks Jon, and thank you OneUp!


----------



## iij (Dec 21, 2016)

I have a 180mm V2 post that I installed two weeks ago and I've had problems with it creeping up without any weight on it or sinking with weight. Checked it today without any cable tension and it stilled behaved the same, so I pulled it out of the bike and did a service according to Oneup's guides hoping to solve it, but it still behaves the same, even when compressed without the post mounted in the bike.

Is there any fixes for this, or did I get a faulty post?


----------



## Wazzatron (Apr 24, 2013)

iij said:


> I have a 180mm V2 post that I installed two weeks ago and I've had problems with it creeping up without any weight on it or sinking with weight. Checked it today without any cable tension and it stilled behaved the same, so I pulled it out of the bike and did a service according to Oneup's guides hoping to solve it, but it still behaves the same, even when compressed without the post mounted in the bike.
> 
> Is there any fixes for this, or did I get a faulty post?


I experienced the same issue. It seems to be an issue with the cartridge which is not serviceable (but is replaceable). OneUp are sending me a new cartridge free of charge.


----------



## eleminohpee (Nov 20, 2010)

Wazzatron said:


> Man I need to speak to who ever you did...
> 
> My first 210mm dropper's cartridge is failing (after 8 months). The thing will not stay put and the guy I'm speaking to at Oneup just keeps sending me the service guides.
> 
> ...


I am having the same issue with my new dropper on the 2nd day of use. They must have a bad batch of actuators. They said they are sending out a replacement but it hasn't shipped yet. A little frustrating that I have to work on a part that has less than 5 hours of use but I am willing to give it a go.


----------



## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to hear about the issues guys and specifically the run-around Wazzatron. The rising on its own is a weird one. Our Customer service goal is pretty much "Make it right". We do ask for some troubleshooting checks first but if there is a fault in the product we'll replace it (even if you didn't buy direct from us).
> 
> Wazzatron - PM me your Name and I'll look into it.
> 
> Jon @ OneUp


Mine just started rising on its own too within the last few days: the post starts slowly rising about a half inch every few minutes and will fully extend itself in around an hour. I just emailed you guys this morning about it, but I know you got my back. Been flawless the last year of heavy use.


----------



## SikeMo (Mar 17, 2013)

Yet another person with problems. The first one I had started basically grinding and squeaking when moving it up and down. Got a warranty replacement and after the three rides, it's creeping down while I sit on it.

You get what you pay for, I guess.


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Those with issues of posts "drifting" up or down...I've had a couple of buddies with this and it was fixed by loosening the cable via barrel adjuster. The cable was too taught and was allowing the post to move a bit.


----------



## iij (Dec 21, 2016)

svinyard said:


> Those with issues of posts "drifting" up or down...I've had a couple of buddies with this and it was fixed by loosening the cable via barrel adjuster. The cable was too taught and was allowing the post to move a bit.


I've had the same issue with the post out of the bike, with nothing mounted to actuate the post. Tested that just to make sure that the cable wasn't binding or anything that might actually actuate the post.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Sorry to hear the issues guys.

We have identified an assembly issue with the oring inside the main lock valve of the cartridge. The oring appears to have been nicked during valve assembly on some posts leading to creep (up or down) of the cartridge. The valve and oring design has not changed for a few years so we are confident we aren't dealing with a design issue.

I know this is a let down but we will do whatever is necessary to get you, our customers rolling. If you have an issue with your post please contact [email protected].

Sorry again for the inconvenience, please bear with us while we make it right.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## eleminohpee (Nov 20, 2010)

OneUp said:


> Sorry to hear the issues guys.
> 
> We have identified an assembly issue with the oring inside the main lock valve of the cartridge. The oring appears to have been nicked during valve assembly on some posts leading to creep (up or down) of the cartridge. The valve and oring design has not changed for a few years so we are confident we aren't dealing with a design issue.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear this.

Any idea how long the replacement pieces will take to get to us? I'm crossing my fingers mine might get shipped and make it to me before this weekend or this will be my 3rd missed weekend of riding on a month old bike do to the seatpost.

Thanks


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

eleminohpee said:


> Glad to hear this.
> 
> Any idea how long the replacement pieces will take to get to us? I'm crossing my fingers mine might get shipped and make it to me before this weekend or this will be my 3rd missed weekend of riding on a month old bike do to the seatpost.
> 
> Thanks


Shipping time is usually 2-4 days from when you receive the confirmation. Reply to your order or shipping confirmation so we can look into it directly.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## rod9301 (Oct 30, 2004)

I have about 100 hours on my 150. How long before i need a replacement cartridge on average?



Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

rod9301 said:


> I have about 100 hours on my 150. How long before i need a replacement cartridge on average?


With the exception of this recent assembly error we see very few cartridge issues. Most people should expect ~3 years of use, warranty replacements are available for free up to two years and are $60, aired up and ready to go after that time.

Jon


----------



## s-master (May 15, 2018)

Hello guys,

I think I have a problem with my ONEUP dropper V2, 210mm. It is now 10 months old.

At one point, I realised that there was a small pool of oil under my bike, it looked like it was dripping from the small hole below my bottom bracket. When I removed the dropper post, It was obvious, that it was coming from the dropper post. Actuator was covered in oil and inside of my seat tube was also very oily. When I unscrewed the actuator, the grease that was supposed to be there was "impregnated" with oil and everything looked nasty. The foam "ring" above the actuator was totally filled with oil. While I was squeezing it, a lot of oil was dripping out.

To me it looks like the cartage has failed and leaked oil. It is still supporting my weight OK for now.. But if I want to move the bike and grab it by the seat, while the seat is lowered, it will extend a bit, like there is air in the cartridge and when you release the seat, it will go back down.

@OneUp: Can you please help me out here? Who should I contact, so the problem is solved as soon as possible? I am able to replace the cartridge myself. I am located in europe.

Thank you and best regards


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

s-master said:


> @OneUp: Can you please help me out here? Who should I contact, so the problem is solved as soon as possible? I am able to replace the cartridge myself. I am located in europe.


Sorry for the issue. That is very strange. Please contact [email protected] and note your MTBR user name.

We'll get you sorted immediately.

Jon @ OneUp


----------



## s-master (May 15, 2018)

@OneUp, thank you for your quick response, will shoot you an email.

Best regards


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

I'm having a minor issue with my 210mm post that I've not seen mentioned. The post can be pretty hard to depress the first time on a ride or even if I've taken an extended break (maybe 15 min. or more?). It can get your heart rate up quickly when you take off and head down the trail only to discover you can't get the seat down the first time you need it. A little extra effort and it will go down and then seems to go down with relative ease for the remainder of the ride (I put the post up/down pretty frequently while riding).

I've popped the white bushing up and greased the post, but that didn't really seem to help. I haven't checked the pressure, but it seems adequate, as I have no issue with the post coming back up properly. I've had the post less than 2 months (about 350 miles) and it has been consistently acting this way since new. 

Otherwise, the post works well and I really like it. I guess my work-around is to make sure I cycle the post at the start of every ride so I can avoid the adrenaline rush from it sticking at the first attempt to drop it.

Anyone else having this issue?

AM.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^That does sound like a lube issue. In addition to making sure the upper bushing is cleaned and lubed I'd also service the keys etc., making sure they are clean and lubed. Good thing about this post is it's dead simple to service. 
My post does start to get a bit of stiction identical to your description after x-hours of use. Unscrewing the upper bushing and packing that v shaped void with slick honey has it back to smooth as can be.

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

Yeah, I guess I should pull it apart and check it. Factories don't tend to be as careful when it comes to greasing things as we will be.

My son has been rocking a V1 post for 3 hard years and it's been uber reliable for him. That made it an easy decision for me to choose the Oneup post which also just happens to give me the most drop (210 mm) of any post out there. I absolutely LOVE putting this thing down for a gnarly descent and having the seat be completely out of my way!

I'm planning to get some of their pedals and their chain/bash guide if they ever get them in stock. Their products seem to have really become popular!

AM.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

I pulled it apart last night and there seemed to be ample grease, but it was dark/contaminated. I cleaned it all up and put it back together with fresh grease and it works great for now. Went on an early AM ride and no stiction so far. 

When I put my shock pump on there, it registered about 205 psi, so assuming I lost about 20 psi into the pump, I was a little low at approximately 225 psi. I pumped it up to 250 which didn't really change the return rate much - maybe a smidge.

I'll follow up in another month or so to update the thread on how it's holding up. Maybe my conditions are going to require more frequent service?

AM.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I run mine at 210 also and weigh 235ish at my fighting weight. That's a TON of leverage at the upper bushing. I'm sure some containments slip by as a result. With that I've done one full service and one upper bushing lube in 2 years of flawless use. All other factors aside (cost, drop, simplicity, etc. etc.) that's remarkable in my book. Especially considering the headaches most all other droppers eventually turn into. One other tip I do is to apply a drop of oil on the actuator mechanism and down the actuator tube/plunger...silky smooth. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

I've had/rebuilt Reverbs, 9Point8, KindShock, and Gravity Dropper. I'm sorta done with complicated rebuilds, which was another huge selling point for this dropper. I'm really pleased with the simplicity of disassembly/service. If this stiction issue is resolved, I'll be a happy camper. Thanks for your thoughts/advice.

AM.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

I'm still toying with a Fox Factory Transfer 'cause they look cool and are nice and smooth but the though of having to send it in every 2-3 seasons for servicing isn't appealing. These self contained mechanical droppers are so easy to self-service/repair. 

Lov'n my OneUP.


----------



## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

I am having the same sticking issue as well. Its been like this since day 1. Even took it apart and added grease right after I got it. Aired it up to max PSI and no change. Only thing that helps is to loosen my seat clamp a tiny bit. But then the seat wants to rotate. Tighten it back so the seat doesn't rotate and then it hangs up again. Frustrating. This is on an aluminum frame. My PNW and Bike Yoke never have this issue on my carbon frames. Is this the reason?


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

You might try some carbon paste or even hairspray to help reduce the tendency to rotate at lower clamping pressures. I use hairspray and it seems to work well.

AM.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I have found carbon paste to be counterproductive on seatposts but I weigh 235. I simply make sure both mating surfaces are super clean with isopropyl alcohol. I also make sure my seatpost collar is lubed and clean to minimize pinch points. I'd wager a quality seatpost collar would help in this regard as well. Hairspray may indeed help, never tried it. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

I have some gel based carbon paste and it uses silica as the aggregate to provide the bite. Damn, my Brand-X has some long scratches now. 

I've seen a different carbon paste that uses plastic beads instead. Not as anti-slip as the silica for obvious reasons but it doesn't scratch up your posts reducing the resell value of 'em. Just can't ever find it.


----------



## lynkchiz (Jul 5, 2015)

Greetings MTBR community  im from the Philippines and i had been a lurker for years here in mtbr and thanks to this thread i have recently acquired a brand new OneUP Dropper V2 180mm locally purchased here in the Philippines via a well known big Local bike shop.

Right out of the box what i noticed immediately was that the Version 2.1 actuator was really hard to press manually by the finger and required a really good effort to manually depress the actuator by hand, to the point its a bit painful to the thumb before it moves, (required times 2 the effort to move the actuator compared to my Giant Contact SL 100m dropper and Fox Transfer 125mm dropper) so i thought maybe the resistance of the actuator was just part of the design

So i went to set it up in my 2015 Giant Reign 2 Large, new inner cable and outer housing, lubed the inner cable and organized the cable for minimum bends.

Right off the bat i have noticed that the dropper lever is very hard to press and requires a great effort for the dropper to drop my saddle, so after my first ride left thumb is a bit sore because of the added effort i need to exert. Im using the stock giant contact SL dropper lever which is not the WT style. It was buttery smooth before with my Giant Contact SL 100mm dropper and Fox Transfer 125mm dropper using the lever.

2nd Problem is i think the canister has a problem, post is creeping down a few centimeters when im tackling rocky sections while seated 1 to 2 centimeters, almost an inch. Didnt experience that with my previous droppers.

3rd problem: The post wont go down with the lever if i have weight on the saddle, need to stand first or lift my butt a little before pressing the dropper lever and then the dropper will drop, when im seated or weight is on the saddle the lever is ROCK hard to press, whats causing this?

i have tried it fully slammed and mid slammed to rule out if maybe the actuator is hitting something, nada still the same. Tried fiddling the barrel adjuster on the lever to give it a little slack or no cable slack, still the same.

Maybe someone have also experienced this? would love to hear what are your work around guys. This is this is my first oneUP product purchase. Im really optimistic about this brand and would like to have a pleasant experience. God Bless

Pic of my bike with the Oneup V2 180mm: https://freeimage.host/i/29amVR


----------



## Captain Kirk (Aug 21, 2020)

Lynkchiz I have had the same problem with my lever being really stiff & hard to push. 
I spent a couple of hours today regreasing & trying the cable without the seatpost attached & everything seems to work well & smooth until it's all back together. I found if I unweight the seat the lever is very easy to push & the post drops easily but with my weight on the saddle the lever bends until it stubbornly drops the seat.
The bike is a Trek Rail emtb & using the stock bontrager lever. 

@Oneup any ideas?


----------



## hece (Feb 27, 2017)

OneUp said:


> The tight clearances between the upper tube and the cartridge, required for assembly, can occasionally result in a knock between the inside of the upper tube and the outside of the cartridge. We have a simple fix for you to add in the missed step and silence the rattle that you are experiencing. The attached process details the steps that you can take. It's a one beer job and should take no more than 15 minutes.
> ...
> 6 - Apply two wraps of electrical tape to the main body of Cartridge (14) 40mm from the end.
> ...


Yesterday I also noticed the post rattling when fully or almost fully extended. Today I opened the post in order to apply the electrical tape. I found that my post already had the two layers of tape. So I added a third layer and it seems to have fixed the issue. My post is 210mm 30.9 variant and it has seen about 100h of use since last November.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Did somebody get replied from OneUp support last 3 weeks? They sent me an email 29.07 with a promise of cartridge replacement, and no answers to my emails at all since then... (


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

accordnick said:


> Did somebody get replied from OneUp support last 3 weeks? They sent me an email 29.07 with a promise of cartridge replacement, and no answers to my emails at all since then... (


No reply yet here either. My post just failed last week and I emailed OneUp on Friday, so it hasn't been very long yet.


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

Mine failed last week on Friday night, I got a response to my email on Sunday and yesterday got confirmation of parts being shipped soon. I'm happy with that despite then saying 5 days from confirmation to actual ship. They are working Sundays!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

rain164845 said:


> Mine failed last week on Friday night, I got a response to my email on Sunday and yesterday got confirmation of parts being shipped soon. I'm happy with that despite then saying 5 days from confirmation to actual ship. They are working Sundays!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I'm curious, what email address did you use? I emailed [email protected] as I saw it in one of their responses about warranty issues.


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

Double post 😜


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

I used the email from their website.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Nickbm3 said:


> No reply yet here either. My post just failed last week and I emailed OneUp on Friday, so it hasn't been very long yet.


Have they replied you? Mine emails are still ignored. ( I mailed to [email protected].


----------



## Nickbm3 (Nov 10, 2010)

accordnick said:


> Have they replied you? Mine emails are still ignored. ( I mailed to [email protected].


Yes they replied. I initially emailed the address you listed, but after not hearing anything for a few days I forwarded the email to [email protected] address. OneUp responded to that one quickly and promptly sent out a replacement cartridge which arrived today. On unpacking it I do notice some differences so I will test it out and report back, so far it doesn't appear to compress all the way.


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

Nickbm3 said:


> Yes they replied. I initially emailed the address you listed, but after not hearing anything for a few days I forwarded the email to [email protected] address. OneUp responded to that one quickly and promptly sent out a replacement cartridge which arrived today. On unpacking it I do notice some differences so I will test it out and report back, so far it doesn't appear to compress all the way.


When did they approve your warranty claim, and when did it ship? My claim was approved on the 14th and I haven't gotten a shipping notification yet. Ups and fedex don't show any pending shipments either.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## johnnybg (Sep 24, 2019)

*oneup dropper v2 "squeak"*



the-one1 said:


> Weird issue I've been having with mine that I've not read about yet.
> Mine makes a loud audible squeak when I lower and raise it. Sounds like letting air out of a balloon while stretching the balloon's mouth.
> 
> The sound is coming from the cartridge. I've completely removed the outer tube and cycled the post up and down on the floor. Other than the noise, the posts is working as normal. Extension is fast and smooth and dropping it doesn't take much effort.
> ...


I have that same squeaking noise on two oneup v2 droppers (210 + 180mm) even after making a complete service.
Have you got any information from onup about that?

Thanks
Johann


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

johnnybg said:


> I have that same squeaking noise on two oneup v2 droppers (210 + 180mm) even after making a complete service.
> Have you got any information from onup about that?
> 
> Thanks
> Johann


Oneup took care of it and sent me a new cartridge.


----------



## rain164845 (Jul 6, 2008)

My new cartridge just showed up. They had a delay importing them into the US, which I completely understand. They also upgraded the shipping. Great service.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## markmrobbins (Jun 13, 2020)

apologies in advance if this has already been answered, I scanned through the thread and didn't find anything...

I'm planning on getting a v2 dropper to replace the fox transfer 125mm that came on my bike. I'm quite short but realized I can fit a 150mm dropper so want to upgrade. Question is: should I get the oneup remote or should I keep the fox remote? I'm more interested in performance than saving money.

Thanks in advance,

Mark


----------



## johnnybg (Sep 24, 2019)

markmrobbins said:


> apologies in advance if this has already been answered, I scanned through the thread and didn't find anything...
> 
> I'm planning on getting a v2 dropper to replace the fox transfer 125mm that came on my bike. I'm quite short but realized I can fit a 150mm dropper so want to upgrade. Question is: should I get the oneup remote or should I keep the fox remote? I'm more interested in performance than saving money.
> 
> ...


Hi Mark,

i have the 210mm V2 with the oneup remote which works really very smooth with not really much thumb power needed.
On my wifes bike we have the 180mm V2 and he wanted to keep the shimano remote. It works but she needs really way more power compared to my setup.

The oneup remote has a really nice feel and maybe its the big bearing they use which makes the difference. Same on a friends bike who uses the bikejoke remote with the v2 (he needs even more power than on my wies bike)
So both bikejoke and Shimano dont really use a bearing, so i Don know what the fox looks like but the oneup remote is worth every penny.

ride on
Johann


----------



## johnnybg (Sep 24, 2019)

the-one1 said:


> Oneup took care of it and sent me a new cartridge.


thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## ehfour (Oct 17, 2016)

Got a new 180mm V2.1 that has started to develop side to side play; Normal or not?

About the same or more than a reverb for reference


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

ehfour said:


> Got a new 180mm V2.1 that has started to develop side to side play; Normal or not?
> 
> About the same or more than a reverb for reference


You're talking about rotational play?


----------



## ehfour (Oct 17, 2016)

the-one1 said:


> You're talking about rotational play?


yes rotational play


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

They all get some rotational play. I think I've got around 1.5-2mm of rotational play. You get used to it. Can't feel it when you're riding other than when you're off the bike and moving it around.


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

ehfour said:


> yes rotational play


You can get a pin kit to reduce or eliminate the play. OneUp makes oversized pins that take up any gaps in the tolerances.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/all/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit-1

That is, when they actually get them back in stock.


----------



## ehfour (Oct 17, 2016)

stinkydogfart said:


> You can get a pin kit to reduce or eliminate the play. OneUp makes oversized pins that take up any gaps in the tolerances.
> 
> https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/all/products/dropper-v2-oversized-pin-kit-1
> 
> That is, when they actually get them back in stock.


Perfect! Thanks sdf


----------



## KevinBel (Dec 1, 2019)

johnnybg said:


> The oneup remote has a really nice feel and maybe its the big bearing they use which makes the difference. Same on a friends bike who uses the bikejoke remote with the v2 (he needs even more power than on my wies bike)
> So both bikejoke and Shimano dont really use a bearing, so i Don know what the fox looks like but the oneup remote is worth every penny.


So I have just got myself a OneUp v2 180mm with a BikeYoke Triggy to actuate it, and I have the same feel, it needs a lot of force to actuate the dropper. Doesn't feel very smooth.

Are there more people here using the BikeYoke with the OneUp?
Would like to hear some more experiences. :thumbsup:


----------



## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

KevinBel said:


> So I have just got myself a OneUp v2 180mm with a BikeYoke Triggy to actuate it, and I have the same feel, it needs a lot of force to actuate the dropper. Doesn't feel very smooth.
> 
> Are there more people here using the BikeYoke with the OneUp?
> Would like to hear some more experiences. :thumbsup:


Same set up - same issue...super hard to press the lever!

Have a bikeyoke / Wolftooth set up on a different bike and its butter...so different


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Muttonchops said:


> Same set up - same issue...super hard to press the lever!
> 
> Have a bikeyoke / Wolftooth set up on a different bike and its butter...so different


I'm using a Shimano lever and it's also fairly difficult to press and has a very indirect feeling. I may have to shell out for a OneUp lever.


----------



## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

Paranoid_Android said:


> I'm using a Shimano lever and it's also fairly difficult to press and has a very indirect feeling. I may have to shell out for a OneUp lever.


Mine is a lot better. Took it all apart and checked everything. 
1. The bike yoke lever was quite stiff. Loosened the bolt holding it in place and around which it pivots. Sprayed silicone lube. 
2. Ensured cable / housing had no friction. 
3. Ensured the cable end was fully seated INTO the bottom of the seat post. Have to force it in so that the housing is literally attached to the seat post. Be sure not to pull this off when inserting the post again 
4. Ensured no play in cable. I

Not quite as smooth as my other setup but there is a better chance I don't get tendinitis in my thumb.


----------



## Muttonchops (Jul 16, 2004)

Paranoid_Android said:


> I'm using a Shimano lever and it's also fairly difficult to press and has a very indirect feeling. I may have to shell out for a OneUp lever.


Mine is a lot better. Took it all apart and checked everything. 
1. The bike yoke lever was quite stiff. Loosened the bolt holding it in place and around which it pivots. Sprayed silicone lube. 
2. Ensured cable / housing had no friction. 
3. Ensured the cable end was fully seated INTO the bottom of the seat post. Have to force it in so that the housing is literally attached to the seat post. Be sure not to pull this off when inserting the post again 
4. Ensured no play in cable.

Not quite as smooth as my other setup but there is a better chance I don't get tendinitis in my thumb.


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

That's promising. I might replace the housing and check everything. Cheers


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

accordnick said:


> Have they replied you? Mine emails are still ignored. ( I mailed to [email protected].


Finally Oneup sorted things out and sent me a new cartridge. :thumbsup:


----------



## BluePitch (Sep 13, 2009)

Resolving


----------



## nemesis256 (Aug 16, 2014)

I've had the V1 dropper for a couple years now and I'm tired of the air constantly leaking. I even changed the cartridge back in the spring. Still only lasts a few weeks, sometimes only a couple days before I don't get full extension. Is the V2 dropper any better for leaks? Since it's shorter, do I need a new cable or housing?

Edit: OK, nevermind. I cleaned and re-greased the dropper (also something I did in the spring) and without touching the air pressure, it's now much better. Didn't even look that dirty, but I guess there was enough crap to make it return slowly.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Just did the rebuild on my v2 and there were 2 thin o rings about the Id of the outer post. Didn’t see where to use them and the oneup pic of THe kit Doesn’t show them. Any ideas?


----------



## stinkydogfart (Mar 12, 2018)

Mark16q said:


> Just did the rebuild on my v2 and there were 2 thin o rings about the Id of the outer post. Didn't see where to use them and the oneup pic of THe kit Doesn't show them. Any ideas?


Just a guess, but one probably goes on the top cap just above the threads.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...37.841473007.1604286348-1686660240.1597336815


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

stinkydogfart said:


> Just a guess, but one probably goes on the top cap just above the threads.
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...37.841473007.1604286348-1686660240.1597336815


That does look like the one. Might help in wet climates, not going to pull it apart to put it in there. Weird that they do t show it as part of the kit, must've been on the fly addition.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I really could use a pair of rebuild kits for the v2 droppers. The gluide rings in the top caps are pretty much trashed on both of mine. Of course, out of stock everywhere. Hopefully I can find some soon. I'm a bit surprised just how fast these posts seem to go through the top cap bushings and guide rings... I've got about 1200 miles and 12 months on both of mine and they are toast.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

minimusprime said:


> I really could use a pair of rebuild kits for the v2 droppers. The gluide rings in the top caps are pretty much trashed on both of mine. Of course, out of stock everywhere. Hopefully I can find some soon. I'm a bit surprised just how fast these posts seem to go through the top cap bushings and guide rings... I've got about 1200 miles and 12 months on both of mine and they are toast.


Yep agree. Out of stock everywhere! Really a nuisance as the collar seal on mine is done and now basically needs a clean every few rides.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

The rebuild kits went back in stock last night. Order yours up if you are needing one.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Those oversized shims sure taking their sweet time to restock in Canada...


----------



## mtnbiker4life (Sep 19, 2005)

I bought a brand new v2 post and stock it has more play then my 6 year old Thomson post. So coming from the factory with 2+ mm of play is pathetic and should be stated in the advertisement that play is normal. Should I have to rebuild a brand new seat post?


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Just installed my rebuild kit, and post definitely snaps up faster. But still a ton of play and a new issue. The threaded top cap/seal keeps loosening up. I am not using a tool to tighten it but never had this issue before. I could hit it with a strap wrench but seems weird that this is happening. On a 2 hour ride today had to snug it down twice at least 3 full turns. Anyone else have this?


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Mark16q said:


> Just installed my rebuild kit, and post definitely snaps up faster. But still a ton of play and a new issue. The threaded top cap/seal keeps loosening up. I am not using a tool to tighten it but never had this issue before. I could hit it with a strap wrench but seems weird that this is happening. On a 2 hour ride today had to snug it down twice at least 3 full turns. Anyone else have this?


Never had this happen on mine but I give it a 1/4 turn with a strap wrench. On my Brand-X, it would loosen a good turn or so at the end of a ride.

I did order the rebuild kit and oversize pins to get rid of some of the side to side play.


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

Mine comes loose periodically. I usually notice (even more) play in the post and then it takes me all of 2.74 seconds to tighten it back up. After living with a Reverb and then a leaky 9Point8, I'll gladly take this V2 OneUp with a little more play than I wish it had and a tendency for the top cap to loosen once in a while. First World Problems!

AM.


----------



## Mark16q (Apr 16, 2006)

Attacking Mid said:


> Mine comes loose periodically. I usually notice (even more) play in the post and then it takes me all of 2.74 seconds to tighten it back up. After living with a Reverb and then a leaky 9Point8, I'll gladly take this V2 OneUp with a little more play than I wish it had and a tendency for the top cap to loosen once in a while. First World Problems!
> 
> AM.


Strap wrench and hopefully that does it. Just strange as the last collar seemed to get tighter and even if I hand tightened needed the strap to loosen it. Oneup must've changed something, but just glad that it doesn't seem nearly as sticky as it used to be.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Not sure if it's the same as the Brand-X but don't overdo the strap wrench tightening. I believe if you tighten it too much, it will affect performance. You can use some heavy grease like the Park Tool one, on the threads to keep it from loosening.


----------



## BluePitch (Sep 13, 2009)

Trinimon said:


> Not sure if it's the same as the Brand-X but don't overdo the strap wrench tightening. I believe if you tighten it too much, it will affect performance. You can use some heavy grease like the Park Tool one, on the threads to keep it from loosening.


What about a drop of blue loctite to secure the collar?


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

Anyone else have a v2 where the guide pins give a slight clack when post is raised/lowered or is mine unique?


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

EatsDirt said:


> Anyone else have a v2 where the guide pins give a slight clack when post is raised/lowered or is mine unique?


Definitely no "clack" when my post is raised. More of a "thunk" sound. Maybe you need some more lube on the guide channels/pins?


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

The sounds my post makes, aside from the normal top out thunk, is in both directions and must be coming from the pins migrating in the key ways.

If anyone knows the exact cause or if it’s an indication that I need to tear into it I’d love to know. Trying to prolong service as long as possible as reinstalling/faffing with saddle position is my personal torture.


----------



## KevinBel (Dec 1, 2019)

Mark16q said:


> Just installed my rebuild kit, and post definitely snaps up faster. But still a ton of play and a new issue. The threaded top cap/seal keeps loosening up. I am not using a tool to tighten it but never had this issue before. I could hit it with a strap wrench but seems weird that this is happening. On a 2 hour ride today had to snug it down twice at least 3 full turns. Anyone else have this?


Did you put that oring back you asked about earlier?
That helps it from unthreading....


----------



## KevinBel (Dec 1, 2019)

Muttonchops said:


> Mine is a lot better. Took it all apart and checked everything.
> 1. The bike yoke lever was quite stiff. Loosened the bolt holding it in place and around which it pivots. Sprayed silicone lube.
> 2. Ensured cable / housing had no friction.
> 3. Ensured the cable end was fully seated INTO the bottom of the seat post. Have to force it in so that the housing is literally attached to the seat post. Be sure not to pull this off when inserting the post again
> ...


I have opened up the post yesterday and cleaned and lubed it. No difference in the actuating.
Tried the Triggy while not attached to the post but instead pull on the inner-cable-barrel, but it works without friction.
Checked that the outer-cable-end is properly seated in the actuator-housing and there is no play on the actuating before putting it back in the seat tube, but no difference.

I have to check a bit more with the cables and if it's maybe the hole/bend in my seattube that causes extra friction.

Else I guess I am just gonna buy a OneUp remote..

With my KindShock Lev it was always buttery smooth with the Bikeyoke Triggy. On my other bike I actuate a Brand-X with the Triggy and that also works perfect..


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Attacking Mid said:


> Mine comes loose periodically. I usually notice (even more) play in the post and then it takes me all of 2.74 seconds to tighten it back up. After living with a Reverb and then a leaky 9Point8, I'll gladly take this V2 OneUp with a little more play than I wish it had and a tendency for the top cap to loosen once in a while. First World Problems!
> 
> AM.


Sorry to hear that. The cap should not loosen certainly not every ride. contact us at [email protected] referencing that you discussed it on MTBR and ask for a "V2 Travel shim kit" - SP1C0051. It comes with a replacement oring for the seal head - Number 8d from this exploded view.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0558/5501/files/Dropper-V2-exploded-A.pdf

https://can.oneupcomponents.com/collections/dropper-small-parts/products/travel-shims-kit-v2


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

Trinimon said:


> Those oversized shims sure taking their sweet time to restock in Canada...


Sorry for the delay. Back in Stock.

Cheers - Jon @ OneUp


----------



## zstover (Jul 8, 2020)

I just want to say that I love this dropper post. I have a 2020 fuel ex AL in M/L size. It came with a 130mm dropper with a really tall collar and a tall seat clamp. I had about 4" of extra seat post exposed.

After many trips to the garage to measure, re-measure, and measure again, I concluded that the maximum seatpost insertion that trek lists for this frame is extremely conservative at 280mm for the aluminum size M/L. I found no resistance or change in angle or diameter to over 310mm on this frame so I chose to order the 210mm version. Given my height, inseam length, and frame size, I am not able to use the full 210mm of drop, but shimmed to 190mm with the collar slammed to the frame put my seat height within ~3mm of where it works well for me. 

Due to the much lower stack height and lower clamp height, I have gained much more drop than just the 60mm drop difference would suggest. It feels like a completely different bike. Before I always felt the seat and had concerns when hanging off the side or back of the bike. The extra drop allows me more comfort and confidence when using bike/body separation. 

Return speed is better than the brand x that came on the bike and rotational play is lower as well. For $210 it's a super solid buy.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^Agreed. Third season on mine with 1 simple service. Imo it's the best value dropper out there if not the best dropper out there. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> ^Agreed. Third season on mine with 1 simple service. Imo it's the best value dropper out there if not the best dropper out there.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


Exactly. My 9point8 was buttery smooth and worked great..... when it managed to hold pressure. I had MANY rides where I lost pressure and had to pull the seat up by squeezing with my thighs while depressing the lever (gets old quick). This OneUp isn't quite as smooth and it has more play all around, but when I press the lever it comes back up - every time. Also, I can just barely fit the 210mm into my frame far enough for my seat height (no shims), so it offers me the absolute most drop of any dropper. I LOVE putting that seat down and out of the way as much as possible. Color me a fan.

AM.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

My revive is indeed much smoother. However, the all so important micro adjustments are much easier and more intuitive to nail on the OneUp. I've forgone using the verbage "smooth" for the term "action". The action on the OneUp is excellent. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Just throwing this out there in case someone else experiences the same issue.

I ordered the v2.1 actuator and installed it. I noticed after a 10-15 minutes of riding the seat post crept up about 5mm. At first I though it was too much cable tension so I let out more cable from the remote and made the cable very slack. Still no difference, post still crept up.
Got home and removed the post from the bike, removed the cable from the actuator and watched the post still very slowly crept up. After 10 minute the post was about 5mm up again and still moving.
I remove the new v2.1 actuator and the post no longer crept up. 
Turns out the inner actuation shaft is a hair too long with the new v2.1 actuator. I filed about <1mm off the pin shaft, reassembled everything and the post no longer crept up on its own.


----------



## drjos (Jan 25, 2004)

Just a quick note on using the Shimano SL-MT800-L dropper lever with the V2.1 dropper. Not a great match. The leverage of the Shimano lever is a little too low. I switched to the OneUp IPSec-ev lever and it is now very smooth and easy to actuate.


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

You guys are cracking me up.....

One way to minimize the "housing play" if you will, is to:

1) Determine your proper housing length.
2) Be sure both ends of the housing are snug in the carrier on both ends, while post is out of seat tube.
3) Tighten cable on lever, adjust barrel so there is zero free play - snug (leave yourself adjustment to provide free play)
4) Insert post slowly while relieving the cable housing manually at exit point in synchronized motion, push n pull.
5) Once post is at proper seat height and tightened, adjust barrel for proper free play.

If you skip step 3, you can get some extra cable housing play as you insert the post and pull the housing out, especially on tight routing. If this happens you get the "housing play", so when you actuate the cable the housing first tightens (if it can move) then the cable does the pulling.

This is why I prefer a set screw on the post side to hold the cable housing in place, or better yet 9point8 design eliminates all this.

Of course all this can vary on different frame designs...My Evil Following routing was killer and I could easily push the post straight in, no pull required almost guaranteeing your housing is snug, Commencal META, not so much, most ebikes too, not so much.


----------



## Desertride (Nov 1, 2012)

KevinBel said:


> I have opened up the post yesterday and cleaned and lubed it. No difference in the actuating.
> Tried the Triggy while not attached to the post but instead pull on the inner-cable-barrel, but it works without friction.
> Checked that the outer-cable-end is properly seated in the actuator-housing and there is no play on the actuating before putting it back in the seat tube, but no difference.
> 
> ...


Don't waste your time with the one-up remote. The issue is the actuation mechanism on the post itself being stiff. I have tried three different remotes, including the one-up, and all three have the issue of quite high initial force required to actuate.


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

drjos said:


> Just a quick note on using the Shimano SL-MT800-L dropper lever with the V2.1 dropper. Not a great match. The leverage of the Shimano lever is a little too low. I switched to the OneUp IPSec-ev lever and it is now very smooth and easy to actuate.


This is my experience, exactly. I liked having the Shimano dropper lever matching my shifter, but the OneUp lever has a far lighter feel and is very ergonomic.


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

Desertride said:


> Don't waste your time with the one-up remote. The issue is the actuation mechanism on the post itself being stiff. I have tried three different remotes, including the one-up, and all three have the issue of quite high initial force required to actuate.


Quite correct. Feeling may be better with a long-lever remote (like WT light action and so on). Haven't checked it yet.
Another problem is in the main dust seal, IMO it adds a ton of friction at the starting point...


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

accordnick said:


> Quite correct. Feeling may be better with a long-lever remote (like WT light action and so on). Haven't checked it yet.
> Another problem is in the main dust seal, IMO it adds a ton of friction at the starting point...


I have some Bike Yoke posts as well and everything about the OneUp takes much more force. In isolation, I might think the friction wasn't terrible, but after using Bike Yoke, it's very distinct. Adding to that, certain remotes just feel completely dead. Unfortunately, the WT Light Action didn't help things either (for me).


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

I also have three BikeYoke posts. Each time lowering OneUp I remind myself I shouldn't expect the same smoothness and robust from it, just because it's costs a half of BY. ) One Up also has less stack/total length and weight. It really needs the dust seal update to decrease friction...


----------



## longhornrider134 (Jan 8, 2021)

Hey y'all - first post here, so go easy on me haha. I just recently started having some issues with my OneUp V2 210mm and I'm wondering if y'all have some input. I noticed it was:

1) Sagging by about 15-20mm under my weight at full extension
2) Not staying put and slowly rising when all the way down or partially extended

I tried both looser and tighter cable tension settings (which didn't help) and checked the air pressure, which was at the recommended 250 PSI. After pulling it off of the bike I can recreate issue number 2 when actuating the post by hand. Does this sound like a failing cartridge to y'all? Unfortunately, the post was purchased second-hand so I don't think I have any warranty protection from OneUp. Should I try a rebuild first and see where that gets me?


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

If you remove the actuator from the cartridge and also remove the cartridge from the post, and lay the cartridge on the table. Then observe the cartridge if it expands on its own. If it does, it's a bad cartridge. You'll have to replace the cartridge.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

longhornrider134 said:


> Hey y'all - first post here, so go easy on me haha. I just recently started having some issues with my OneUp V2 210mm


Hey there,

Fire over an email to [email protected], along with a few photos or short video of what's going on, and we'll see if there's anything we can do to help troubleshoot with you.
Feel free to mention this post on MTBr, and we'll go from there.

-Gavin


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Finally I decided to upgrade RF turbine dropper (surprisingly it last 3 years of abuse) to one up dropper post to get maximum amount of drop;
Basically ordered Dropper and PWN dropper post lever(one up not in stock), however to my surprise dropper post comes without cable and hose, lever comes with cable only, why the f*** not to include hose? why end user should order hose separately, pay for additional shipping, etc?

So One up gets - solid Plus
PWN - solid Minus

Bought via competitive cyclist however I would imagine that does not matter since I would expect this to be in the box;

Other than that happy with purchase so far, dropper fits perfectly into the frame; Head design quite nice, operation smooth;


----------



## staind (Sep 17, 2004)

thinking of getting this. from this thread, it's better paired with a wolf tooth remote?


----------



## longhornrider134 (Jan 8, 2021)

OneUp said:


> Hey there,
> 
> Fire over an email to [email protected], along with a few photos or short video of what's going on, and we'll see if there's anything we can do to help troubleshoot with you.
> Feel free to mention this post on MTBr, and we'll go from there.
> ...


Just wanted to provide an update - although he was under absolutely zero obligation to do so, Gavin offered to send a replacement cartridge for free. Just another example of OneUp customer service going above and beyond. Thanks so much y'all!


----------



## Attacking Mid (Dec 10, 2004)

I just use one of those Chinese ZTTO remotes with mine and it works just fine. YMMV.


staind said:


> thinking of getting this. from this thread, it's better paired with a wolf tooth remote?


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

staind said:


> thinking of getting this. from this thread, it's better paired with a wolf tooth remote?


They are most universal, well made and reliable offering on the market, you will pay 10$ or so more, however it will outlast any of competitors and will work with almost any dropper except RS;

Also i can recommend shimano, in case you will find them anywhere


----------



## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Nick_M said:


> Finally I decided to upgrade RF turbine dropper (surprisingly it last 3 years of abuse) to one up dropper post to get maximum amount of drop;
> Basically ordered Dropper and PWN dropper post lever(one up not in stock), however to my surprise dropper post comes without cable and hose, lever comes with cable only, why the f*** not to include hose? why end user should order hose separately, pay for additional shipping, etc?
> 
> So One up gets - solid Plus
> ...


All PNW remotes come with cable and housing AFAIK. If it didn't contact who sold it to you.


----------



## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

Really glad to hear other people are experiencing the stiffness of the actuator on these posts. I'm using a wolftooth LA remote on a low slung SC and I've had to tighten the remote FT to get it to stand a chance of holding on to the inner cable. It doesnt slip through now but still tough as old boots to actuate it. Has rotational play when fully extended and when dropped any distance, for those people who say they can't feel it, I'd check all your bearings etc. as you may have play there too and be completely unaware because I can definitely feel it when I ride. I'm on the stock alert for a oneup remote but I really dont think it'll make a vast difference and I'm ready to get rid of the whole thing. I had a thomson dropper for about 4 years and there was never any rotational play and it was smooth as silk to drop but it only comes in 150mm.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

From afar can't help but think that's a cable or routing issue. Thompsons were definitely stiff/clunky compared to droppers of today...or in their day too. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

I just swapped out my 180mm OneUp dropper on the FS for a 200mm Fox Transfer. No, no, I'm not ditching it. I actually like my OneUp, just that it's moving over to a new HT build. I never realized how firm my Wolf lever was when actuating my OneUp. It's not stiff, just very firm. When I actuated the same Wolf lever on the Fox, I thought the Fox was broken because it's at least 50% less force to actuate than the OneUp. Then again, one if mechanical, the other is hydraulic.


----------



## Golf_Chick (Aug 22, 2013)

The fox is hydraulic? I thought it was mechanically cable operated just the same? or do you mean the internals are hydraulic. It's definitely not a cable issue as even out of the frame it needs a ridiculous amount of force to actuate it and this is exaggerated again by the routing.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Golf_Chick said:


> The fox is hydraulic? I thought it was mechanically cable operated just the same? or do you mean the internals are hydraulic. It's definitely not a cable issue as even out of the frame it needs a ridiculous amount of force to actuate it and this is exaggerated again by the routing.


The internal is hydraulic and actuated via a cable. I think it just needs to pull open a valve and your body weight pushes the oil into the other chamber. Then again, maybe the mechanical cylinder ones like OneUp, PNW etc work in a similar manner. My buddy has a RaceFace Aeffect dropper on his Santa Cruz, it's super easy to actuate the lever as well. My old Brand-X lever was as firm as the OneUp but I had to really lean into it to drop the saddle.


----------



## eleminohpee (Nov 20, 2010)

Anyone else have issues with the post going up too slow? I just swapped the cartridge out, and it’s moving pretty slow. I didn’t check the air pressure because I thought they came with correct air and ready to go. It’s definitely too slow now, but when I compared it to a friends I realized that my old one before the cartridge died was also much too slow. Any tips or thoughts?


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

eleminohpee said:


> Anyone else have issues with the post going up too slow? I just swapped the cartridge out, and it's moving pretty slow. I didn't check the air pressure because I thought they came with correct air and ready to go. It's definitely too slow now, but when I compared it to a friends I realized that my old one before the cartridge died was also much too slow. Any tips or thoughts?


it even printed on the box - pump before installing saddle;
300 psi - max


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

I had to inflate mine up to 280psi to get that nice quick return speed. Also, check that your seatpost clamp isn't too tight.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I run mine just shy of 300psi. Snaps up with a nice audible thunk.

Just a got a new 34.9, while kinda heavy, it's super smooth. 

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Trinimon said:


> The internal is hydraulic and actuated via a cable. I think it just needs to pull open a valve and your body weight pushes the oil into the other chamber. Then again, maybe the mechanical cylinder ones like OneUp, PNW etc work in a similar manner. My buddy has a RaceFace Aeffect dropper on his Santa Cruz, it's super easy to actuate the lever as well. My old Brand-X lever was as firm as the OneUp but I had to really lean into it to drop the saddle.


OneUp cartridges are also hydraulic with an air spring.


----------



## eleminohpee (Nov 20, 2010)

Nick_M said:


> it even printed on the box - pump before installing saddle;
> 300 psi - max


Mine was a warranty replacement cartridge so it just came in a plastic bag. I was referring to the OneUp rep that posts in here quite often had mentioned that the cartridges come aired up and ready to go.

I'm going to double check the air pressure right now. Ill also check the collar but I always torque it to spec so I don't think that'll be the issue.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

eleminohpee said:


> Mine was a warranty replacement cartridge so it just came in a plastic bag.
> 
> I'm going to double-check the air pressure right now. I'll also check the collar but I always torque it to spec so I don't think that'll be the issue.


Hello!

We typically recommend checking the pressure in the cartridge just before you re-install the saddle clamp rails, as it's pretty quick to check and can save you some trouble in the long run.
Often they're inflated between 280-300 PSI when they ship, but I'll usually check as I'm installing a post (or cartridge), just to be 100% sure.

If something doesn't seem right though, we're always available at - [email protected] to help!
- Gavin


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Didzy2009 said:


> I recently got a 210mm v2.1
> 
> ...Also if I sit on the post at full extension after a while if I stand off the saddle and press the remote the post extends or at least clicks like it's gone up again? As though it's sagged a little?


Mine recently developed the same issue. Did you figure out what the problem was?


----------



## skyno (Jan 9, 2012)

Big shout-out to OneUp for great customer service. The ispec mount for my remote broke and they warrantied it straight away - had the replacement part in my hand just a few days later. I have had 5 of their posts over the years and this is the 1st problem I have ever had and they take care of their loyal customers.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Hey @OneUp

Any idea how to keep this nut from loosening?

I find over time it comes loose and also every time I take my shock pump off it twists it off with it.

There's nothing more I hate than taking my seat off 

Thanks


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

northvanguy said:


> Hey @OneUp
> 
> Any idea how to keep this nut from loosening?
> 
> ...


Hey there, I'd suggest a small dab of blue loctite to help keep the cartridge lockring in place, if you find it's repeatedly loosening.

If you continue experiencing any issues / have any other troubleshooting questions, 
you can always fire an email over to [email protected] and you'll hear from us within a day or two!

- Gavin


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Any tips for a post that has become increasingly more difficult to activate? V2.1 actuator + OneUp lever. It’s not horribly stiff, but takes noticeably more force than this setup originally did. I’ve given it a fresh cable which hasn’t helped.


----------



## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

Paranoid, my version 2.1 was like that from the start. I can use it but it's very stiff, and impossible to actuate if my weight's on the saddle. I asked OneUp about possible fixes and they're sending me a new actuator.

Tim


----------



## Paranoid_Android (Oct 11, 2006)

Wombat said:


> Paranoid, my version 2.1 was like that from the start. I can use it but it's very stiff, and impossible to actuate if my weight's on the saddle. I asked OneUp about possible fixes and they're sending me a new actuator.
> 
> Tim


Oh cool, I'll chat to the support guys. Thanks.


----------



## TrailBlaza (Sep 2, 2008)

Hey I just ordered the v2 dropper without remote. I currently have a Wolf Tooth Remote Dropper Lever and Jagwire Pro Dropper housing kit. Are these compatible with the One up dropper?


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

TrailBlaza said:


> Hey I just ordered the v2 dropper without remote. I currently have a Wolf Tooth Remote Dropper Lever and Jagwire Pro Dropper housing kit. Are these compatible with the One up dropper?


Yup

Sent from my moto g(6) forge using Tapatalk


----------



## longhornrider134 (Jan 8, 2021)

Posting this here because I can't find a similar thread for the V1 - I'm having some issues with a V1 post that I think might relate to the cartridge. I haven't tried disassembling it yet but it fails to actuate most of the time, and when it does, it doesn't make it to full extension. I've checked that the air pressure is in the 250-300 range (it is) and it does this off of the bike - cable tension and those sorts of factors aren't at play. Thoughts on what might be going wrong and what I could try in terms of potential remedies?


----------



## drjos (Jan 25, 2004)

longhornrider134 said:


> Posting this here because I can't find a similar thread for the V1 - I'm having some issues with a V1 post that I think might relate to the cartridge. I haven't tried disassembling it yet but it fails to actuate most of the time, and when it does, it doesn't make it to full extension. I've checked that the air pressure is in the 250-300 range (it is) and it does this off of the bike - cable tension and those sorts of factors aren't at play. Thoughts on what might be going wrong and what I could try in terms of potential remedies?


Does your top white busing have a lip? A lipless bushing was a fix for similar behavior I had. OneUp sent me one for free.


----------



## longhornrider134 (Jan 8, 2021)

drjos said:


> Does your top white busing have a lip? A lipless bushing was a fix for similar behavior I had. OneUp sent me one for free.


It does have that lip on the upper bushing, and you may be spot on with this - just disassembled, cleaned and re-greased the whole post and the cartridge seemed to be working fine with the upper bushing undone. It's having the same issue now that it's fully put back together.


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

I had my first real issue with my post. The saddle started coming up on me during rides. Then I noticed that it'd also go down if enough pressure was applied. The good news is the dropper is still under warranty for a few months and a new cartridge is on the way. The support team responded quickly and got my warranty shipped out right away.


----------



## bikeman_2 (Oct 12, 2005)

Hallo,

Ich habe einen 150mm V2 im SC Bronson (S) und habe folgendes Problem: 
Wenn ich in der Mitte und vor dem Sattel sitze, geht die Stütze perfekt runter. Wenn ich hinten auf dem Sattel sitze, funktioniert nichts. 
Hast du eine Lösung


----------



## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

New v2 post with less than a dozen rides died yesterday on Day 4 of a 10 day road trip.. . Luckily Jenson had a 210 air cartridge in stock and it will be here tomorrow...

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## TraxFactory (Sep 10, 1999)

bikeman_2 said:


> Ich habe einen 150mm V2 im SC Bronson (S) und habe folgendes Problem:
> Wenn ich in der Mitte und vor dem Sattel sitze, geht die Stütze perfekt runter. Wenn ich hinten auf dem Sattel sitze, funktioniert nichts.
> Hast du eine Lösung


Nicht hinten sitzen? 
Vielleicht brauchen Sie nur einen Service.









DROPPER POST V2 CLEAN & GREASE SERVICE


Tools needed Waterproof grease (ie. Slickoleum, Slick Honey) Rubbing alcohol 2 & 5mm hex Pick tool Needle nose pliers Strap wrench 14 mm or 17mm wrench (or adjustable wrench) Lint-free Cloth COMPLETE EXPLODED VIEW & PARTS LIST This service should be completed every 50-100hrs of riding depending...




can.oneupcomponents.com


----------



## s0ckeyeus (Jun 20, 2008)

Dagonger said:


> New v2 post with less than a dozen rides died yesterday on Day 4 of a 10 day road trip..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know you already ordered a replacement, but you should probably get the other one replaced under warranty.


----------



## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Yeah I emailed Oneup already. Waiting for a reply.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## manelnunez (Aug 31, 2011)

Hi, I'm a new owner of a oneup v2 and it has bushings play straight away from the box. Is it normal? 

Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Skulls Road (Jul 20, 2020)

manelnunez said:


> Hi, I'm a new owner of a oneup v2 and it has bushings play straight away from the box. Is it normal?
> 
> Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


If you're referring to the side to side play, yes that's normal. Mine does it. My PNWs do it too.


----------



## manelnunez (Aug 31, 2011)

Skulls Road said:


> If you're referring to the side to side play, yes that's normal. Mine does it. My PNWs do it too.


Yes, I'm talking about that play. My old x fusion manic did not have any play... It was a surprise for me that the one up has it straight out of the box.

Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Coming from a Revive which is really tight I was a little put off by the OneUp movement too. Ultimately I never notice it riding so what's the difference? 

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## Fajita Dave (Mar 22, 2012)

Same here. Coming from a Crank Bros dropper I was really surprised by the side to side play straight out of the box and the zipper sound when operating.

Zipper sound is gone now since it's broken in and I don't notice the play much while riding. When I do notice the play it doesn't bother me at all so no big deal. For $200 it's been perfectly reliable and I don't feel compelled the shell out another $100+ for a dropper just to stop the side to side play.


----------



## two-one (Aug 7, 2008)

OneUps website says they are having e-mail problems. I had contact with them 3 weeks ago about a cartridge problem, but never heard from them again, very strange. Sent 3 more e-mails, but no response.
Anyone else have any communication issues lately?


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

two-one said:


> OneUps website says they are having e-mail problems. I had contact with them 3 weeks ago about a cartridge problem, but never heard from them again, very strange. Sent 3 more e-mails, but no response.
> Anyone else have any communication issues lately?


I had communication problems like you've described, solved by using my gmail account.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Fajita Dave said:


> Same here. Coming from a Crank Bros dropper I was really surprised by the side to side play straight out of the box and the zipper sound when operating.
> 
> Zipper sound is gone now since it's broken in and I don't notice the play much while riding. When I do notice the play it doesn't bother me at all so no big deal. For $200 it's been perfectly reliable and I don't feel compelled the shell out another $100+ for a dropper just to stop the side to side play.


Plus they make a larger pin/key kit if needed.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

manelnunez said:


> Hi, I'm a new owner of a oneup v2 and it has bushings play straight away from the box. Is it normal?
> 
> Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


Yes, pretty common with all droppers out there. If you want to reduce the rotational play, OneUp sells a oversized pin kit that will take out some of the slack.


----------



## manelnunez (Aug 31, 2011)

Trinimon said:


> Yes, pretty common with all droppers out there. If you want to reduce the rotational play, OneUp sells a oversized pin kit that will take out some of the slack.


Yes I know but for me the oneup has too much.

Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

manelnunez said:


> Yes I know but for me the oneup has too much.
> 
> Enviado desde mi ALP-L09 mediante Tapatalk


To each their own. I have a bike yoke revive in my fleet, as well as 2 one up v2's. When in the shop, the play in the one up posts bothers me... when on the bike, it's unperceivable. The revive on the other hand, is butter smooth, has very little play and technically, is superior in most ways. Ironically, I like them both equally, and I am just as happy to use either while on the trail.


----------



## Desertride (Nov 1, 2012)

Paranoid_Android said:


> Any tips for a post that has become increasingly more difficult to activate? V2.1 actuator + OneUp lever. It's not horribly stiff, but takes noticeably more force than this setup originally did. I've given it a fresh cable which hasn't helped.


Any luck? I've cleaned and lubed just about everything trying to reduce the stiffness in the actuator.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Check and see that there are no kinks to the cable housing or that the housing isn't worn and also check the end caps at the end of the housing for any damage so they're not pinching the cable. I usually add a very thin layer of lightweight grease on the cable to keep it slick. Can also check the lever to see if it's not binding by backing off the barrel adjuster or loosening the cable clamp screw.


----------



## fhm3rc (Aug 18, 2018)

Any one got a OneUp lever handlebar clamp they want to part ways with? Send me a DM


----------



## ervandew (Apr 29, 2014)

Is there a solution to rattling when the post is partially or fully dropped?

I scanned through this thread and seems like most rattling reported is when the post is fully extended, but mine is dead quiet at full extension. It's not until I drop it even a little that it rattles like crazy (seems to sound worse the lower the post is, but that could just be the sound resonating more in the frame the lower it is). Seems like OneSpeed has/had the same issue but I didn't see any replies to their issue.

FWIW, the post has been doing this since it was brand new.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

ervandew said:


> Is there a solution to rattling when the post is partially or fully dropped?
> 
> I scanned through this thread and seems like most rattling reported is when the post is fully extended, but mine is dead quiet at full extension. It's not until I drop it even a little that it rattles like crazy (seems to sound worse the lower the post is, but that could just be the sound resonating more in the frame the lower it is). Seems like OneSpeed has/had the same issue but I didn't see any replies to their issue.
> 
> FWIW, the post has been doing this since it was brand new.


Under the seat where the air valve is there's a nut that holds it in place.

I'd suggest checking that is tight.

When fully extended it might be held in place by force but once travel dropped perhaps the pressure is gone.

Just an idea... could be completely and utterly wrong.


----------



## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Is there any way to get in contact with oneup UK? 

I received a post that got a scored shaft on the first ride. 

A quick inspection showed the top bush had been crushed and there was almost no lube. 

Not the best start, but mistakes happen. 

What's important is how the mistakes get rectified... They've had weeks to respond to the emails... 

Can anyone assist?


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

CaveGiant said:


> Is there any way to get in contact with oneup UK?


Hey there,

I'm sorry to hear about the delay in our response! We're typically able to respond within 48hrs or so.
We had an issue with our email server recently, and a number of emails were lost/ never received.

If you reach out again in a new email, we can start to remedy this for you.

OneUp UK is actually just our small team here in Squamish!

- Gavin


----------



## ervandew (Apr 29, 2014)

northvanguy said:


> Under the seat where the air valve is there's a nut that holds it in place.
> 
> I'd suggest checking that is tight.
> 
> ...


That nut was indeed loose so I tightened it down. Unfortunately, it didn't seem to have any affect on the rattling noise.

I appreciate the suggestion though.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Well I'm out of ideas. Not really many parts on the dropper. 

Unless something to do with the cartridge. 

Good luck.


----------



## ervandew (Apr 29, 2014)

Contacted oneup and they are sending me an oversized pin kit. Hopefully that does the trick.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

If it is the pins I reckon just some grease would hold them still. 

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

OneUp said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I'm sorry to hear about the delay in our response! We're typically able to respond within 48hrs or so.
> We had an issue with our email server recently, and a number of emails were lost/ never received.
> ...


I just got a message back saying warranty accepted.

It appears my first impression was false.

Thanks for sorting it.

Let's see what happens next =)


----------



## Mikey1212 (Nov 2, 2020)

stinkydogfart said:


> Ok, I did some more investigation. I installed all 6 reducer shims, and corrected my seat height accordingly. There is still bounce. I also noticed that with the shims and once I removed them, there is some sag, movement, when I first put weight on the post.
> 
> I also tried to tighten the top nut near the air valve. It just rotates the whole cartridge assembly in the seat post. I can't get it to tighten or loosen.
> 
> ...


I just found this post from '19 while looking to solve the same issue (rotating cartridge, unable to tighten nut). 
Maybe it's been resolved before but that's how I just didi it:

"Drive" a wedge between the cartridge and the inner surface of the tube. By "drive" I mean to gently insert something that provides friction. The gap is really narrow so after trying a few things i ended up using the pointy end of zip ties. I stuck a few in there with moderate force and that provided enough friction to fix the cartridge in place. I was then able to get the tighten the nut. Pull out the zip ties - done.

Hope that helps.


----------



## TrailBlaza (Sep 2, 2008)

Anyone know the best solution to rid of the creaking sounds during pedal strokes while seated? Mine is mainly from the left stroke as my butt leans left and puts pressure on saddle. I can mimic the sound without pedaling by leaning left while seated. Definitely not seat as I've tried multiple at different tightness.


----------



## Skulls Road (Jul 20, 2020)

TrailBlaza said:


> Anyone know the best solution to rid of the creaking sounds during pedal strokes while seated? Mine is mainly from the left stroke as my butt leans left and puts pressure on saddle. I can mimic the sound without pedaling by leaning left while seated. Definitely not seat as I've tried multiple at different tightness.


You have to grease your saddle rails.


----------



## Mikey1212 (Nov 2, 2020)

grease saddle rails, service / grease seat post. have you tried one of those / both?


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

Anyone else experience terrible creaking from their post? When I pulled mine out it has a few wear marks on the front, which I suspect is from rubbing in the carbon frame and what is making the noise. 
I serviced the post, greased the rails, and put fresh assembly compound on, but the creak slowly comes back after a couple rides.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

You're getting movement at your seat binder. Can't say exactly why that is but make sure it's oriented correctly, torqued correctly and possibly just buy a nicer one. 

*Also, personally I am not a fan of carbon paste for high load areas like a seat post. I have much better success with rubbing alcohol on both services, clean as can be. 
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

j.swagner said:


> View attachment 1946348
> 
> Anyone else experience terrible creaking from their post? When I pulled mine out it has a few wear marks on the front, which I suspect is from rubbing in the carbon frame and what is making the noise.
> I serviced the post, greased the rails, and put fresh assembly compound on, but the creak slowly comes back after a couple rides.


I'm running a V2 dropper in my Pivot Switchblade, and one in my Borealis Flume. The Flume creaks like crazy. I suspect that it has more to do with the build tolerance of the seat tube than the post. Park Tools assembly paste lasts longer than anything I've used, I only have to re apply after a dozen+ rides.

I put a taller seatpost clamp on too, helped a bit.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

majorjake said:


> I'm running a V2 dropper in my Pivot Switchblade, and one in my Borealis Flume. The Flume creaks like crazy. I suspect that it has more to do with the build tolerance of the seat tube than the post. Park Tools assembly paste lasts longer than anything I've used, I only have to re apply after a dozen+ rides.
> 
> I put a taller seatpost clamp on too, helped a bit.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


I'll have to try a different compound and clamp, I'm just using Finish Line and the stock Santa Cruz clamp.

I suspect it's the post because I had no issues with the original Reverb creaking and never had to reapply any paste to it either.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

The squeezy is an excellent binder. Does a good job of offering full circumference pressure. 

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

j.swagner said:


> View attachment 1946348
> 
> Anyone else experience terrible creaking from their post? When I pulled mine out it has a few wear marks on the front, which I suspect is from rubbing in the carbon frame and what is making the noise.
> I serviced the post, greased the rails, and put fresh assembly compound on, but the creak slowly comes back after a couple rides.


Yep same issue running a 210mm V2 in my Tallboy.


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Does anyone with the creaking post issue have some accurate calipers they can use to see if the post is anywhere near the spec diameter?

I raised it with OneUp when I first identified the issue and they basically said that it wasn't them, they're within tolerance. It would be good to confirm this.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

majorjake said:


> Does anyone with the creaking post issue have some accurate calipers they can use to see if the post is anywhere near the spec diameter?
> 
> I raised it with OneUp when I first identified the issue and they basically said that it wasn't them, they're within tolerance. It would be good to confirm this.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


I just measured the part outside the frame, pretty spot on at 31.6mm. I'll measure the inner part next time I pull the post


----------



## accordnick (Sep 13, 2012)

jeremy3220 said:


> Yep same issue running a 210mm V2 in my Tallboy.


The same issue, 210 mm in Tallboy 4 CC.  BY Squeezy clamp. No creacks when running Revive 213 in this frame.
I suspect that OneUp lower tube deforms under the load.


----------



## Nick_M (Jan 16, 2015)

Have question either to one up officials or community:

My seat at the knee level or so, after latest bike park trip, during the dh ride post releasing up either by knee hit or on own( not sure, asume the first) however you start with slammed seat and it rises during the run (dad jokes aside, not f fun) , pedaling uphill - holding rider weight just fine;


how can i fix?
what is wrong?

Post on warranty tho

Cheers


----------



## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Tweak tension on cable perhaps??

Sent from my Asus Rog 3


----------



## Dagonger (Dec 8, 2011)

Weirdest thing today.. first and only issues.. 
Threaded collar came completely loose.. easy fix but weird incident. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Dagonger said:


> Weirdest thing today.. first and only issues..
> Threaded collar came completely loose.. easy fix but weird incident.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


You see this all the time on telescoping suspension seatposts (you know, the cheapies that come on hybrids) and most dropper posts (But--surprisingly--not Reverbs, since that part is turned with a _wrench_, unlike pretty much every other dropper).

Any time something has 'wiggle' rotationally, and a threaded part over top of it, it's going to work stuff loose if it isn't as tight as possible necessary. Usually a good woof with a rag wrapped around is sufficient. I would consider it normal-to-good if I need to pull out the strap wrench to undo that part of the post.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

Does anyone know where one might purchase a 210mm replacement cartridge for the V2 that is in stock? 

Can't seem to find them, OneUp is out of stock etc...


----------



## TrailBlaza (Sep 2, 2008)

accordnick said:


> The same issue, 210 mm in Tallboy 4 CC.  BY Squeezy clamp. No creacks when running Revive 213 in this frame.
> I suspect that OneUp lower tube deforms under the load.


Yeah it's a big bummer since the creak is so f'ing annoying. Mine creaks mainly when I apply pressure to the left side of the saddle. After purchasing the post, I had no creaks for 3-4 months now have one on every pedal stroke.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Has anyone had this issue at all? (Will need sound up to hear problem)






- YouTube


Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.




youtube.com





And it does it anywhere in its travel






- YouTube


Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.




youtube.com





terrible knock noise sounds dreadful riding on rough terrain?

Only 4 weeks old from new don't really want to start dismantling anything on it but will if it's a easy fix any ideas?

pushes down and pulls up a good 2-3cm and knocks klunks etc as it goes back down

weirdly it's gone no side to side play whatso ever totally solid probably the best I've had from new even including the revive

any help appreciated coming from a bikeyoke revive I really am disappointed ☹


----------



## majorjake (Sep 5, 2017)

Didzy2009 said:


> Has anyone had this issue at all? (Will need sound up to hear problem)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Reach out to OneUp directly, they have outstanding customer service.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Ok found the culprit it's this lock ring was really loose below

upon tightening it back up it never actually comes to a hard stop? Should it just hit a stop? It's taken out all but a minimal amount of knock/looseness now but still has a tiny bit&#8230; I used circlip pliers to tighten it down but it just kept going and never stopped, I assumed it would but didn't dare keep just going any thoughts guys?


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

I've got both versions on my bikes. V1 less friction to dis engage.


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

I'm trying to decide on a dropper post for my old school 2008 Scott Ransom. From a sizing point of view, OneUp seems to have the best post for my requirements as the low stack height would allow me to run a 150mm dropper instead of 125mm for most other brands.

The challenge with this frame is it has an open seat tube so while I could run the cable into the bottom of the post, it would be exposed to the elements.










Has anyone come up with a boot or cover of some sort for the bottom of the dropper post to keep debris from messing up the cable actuator mechanism? The only other dropper I know of that has such a cover is Brand-X, but I'm assuming it would only fit their posts?


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

j.swagner said:


> View attachment 1946348
> 
> Anyone else experience terrible creaking from their post? When I pulled mine out it has a few wear marks on the front, which I suspect is from rubbing in the carbon frame and what is making the noise.
> I serviced the post, greased the rails, and put fresh assembly compound on, but the creak slowly comes back after a couple rides.


Wrapped some gorilla tape around the narrower part of the post where I had some of the rub and so far I haven’t heard the creak come back. Fingers crossed it stays silent


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Wondering if anyone else has an issue with the post collar seal coming unscrewed on its own? My LBS suggested I should check it before every ride. To me, that seems kinda silly, but they were right - before every ride I notice it's loose and need to tension it up. Had it pop out twice on the trail, first time I lost a guide pin. What gives?

V2, 210 length.


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

BmoreKen said:


> Wondering if anyone else has an issue with the post collar seal coming unscrewed on its own? My LBS suggested I should check it before every ride. To me, that seems kinda silly, but they were right - before every ride I notice it's loose and need to tension it up. Had it pop out twice on the trail, first time I lost a guide pin. What gives?
> 
> V2, 210 length.
> 
> View attachment 1956334


I haven’t had any issues. Have you tried some Loctite on the threads?


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Put a dab of marine grease or PPL1 grease on the threads and snug it "lightly" with a strap wrench.

Never had that unscrewing on my v2 dropper (though my top cap looks very different to yours) but my old Brand -X Ascend II used to unscrew every couple rides.


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Here’s my actual post. Snagged the other photo from oneup site.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I have a, 30.9 - 180mm and a 31.6 - 210mm, v2 one up. My 30.9 post top bushing/dust wiper thing does loosen from time to time. I'd say it does so with a frequency of it coming loose 1/16 - 1/8 of a turn in like 6-7 rides. I ended up putting a single wrap of teflon tape on the threads to stop it from coming loose. I still check it often.


----------



## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I've not experienced it coming loose but I have a good monkey grip with hand tight. 

I keep my seal head well lubed, too. I'd wager if it was dry or dry-ish that would accelerate or help facilitate it coming loose every time you're raising your post. 

When you're tightening the collar make sure your post is not all the way extended, but somewhere in the middle. Once you feel like you have it bottomed out continue to apply pressure as you wiggle the post around a little bit. That along with keeping the collar well lubed, I would simply try that before doing anything else. 

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk


----------



## BmoreKen (Sep 27, 2004)

Thanks for the replies. I just pushed the seat about 1/4 way down, unscrewed the wiper seal cap and pulled that up, applied Slickoleum on the tube, pushed the seal back down, then wiped the Slickoleum off the threads, applied regular grease to the threads, and tightened her up. Then worked the post full travel a few times to make sure the light grease worked around enough. It didn't seem dry before, but it shoots up like a rocket now.

In going through this, I suppose the light grease on the threads could allow the threads to work loose prematurely, and it's easy to get the grease on the threads as you push/tighten it back up since it just gathers up the grease you just applied. I may try the teflon tape idea, next.

We'll see how it goes.


----------



## Didzy2009 (Jan 18, 2009)

Is anyone using a PNW loam lever with the one up v2? Does it work well? I find the latest one up lever pretty awful, I can’t get my thumb in a good position on it on MMX and it feels relatively stiff compared to my friends wolftooth


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

9Point8 has their Digit 2.0 dropper lever that's on sale for Black Friday at 30% off. It's identical to the WolfTooth Lite dropper levers and buttery smooth. Not sure how much you'd get dinged in the UK with duties etc.


----------



## TheOtherOne (Jul 27, 2020)

FIY, OneUp has 15% off this weekend using "save15%". Not sure how much longer it will be going on though.


----------



## n3sta (Jul 31, 2019)

How do these work in cold weather? I was about to lose my mind with the Reverb Stealth in any temperature below 55F last fall...


----------



## drjos (Jan 25, 2004)

n3sta said:


> How do these work in cold weather? I was about to lose my mind with the Reverb Stealth in any temperature below 55F last fall...


My has worked OK. When it feels a little slow/sticky put a little thin lube on an stanchion and cycle it a couple of times and its good for a few rides.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

j.swagner said:


> Wrapped some gorilla tape around the narrower part of the post where I had some of the rub and so far I haven’t heard the creak come back. Fingers crossed it stays silent


How's it working?

I bought the Squeezy clamp and it's actually louder now, lol


----------



## j.swagner (Dec 14, 2018)

jeremy3220 said:


> How's it working?
> 
> I bought the Squeezy clamp and it's actually louder now, lol


Still silent, I pulled the post recently and the tape is ripped up in a spot so it will likely wear out eventually but for now it’s still working


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

j.swagner said:


> Still silent, I pulled the post recently and the tape is ripped up in a spot so it will likely wear out eventually but for now it’s still working


Interesting. I'll probably give taping it a shot but I'm getting to the point of giving up and ordering a Revive.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Fwiw, on my megatower, my oneup v2 posts can start creaking about once a year. I wrap the bottom of it in teflon tape to stop it from chafing the inside of the seat tube. Wrapping the reduced diameter portion and the bottom portion with 1-2 wraps seems to do the trick. Getting it into the seatpost without ripping up the tape can be tricky, but it does work. In contrast, the other one up v2's I have, both on my rise and my giant trance advanced 29, do not have this issue and don't need the tape.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

minimusprime said:


> Fwiw, on my megatower, my oneup v2 posts can start creaking about once a year. I wrap the bottom of it in teflon tape to stop it from chafing the inside of the seat tube. Wrapping the reduced diameter portion and the bottom portion with 1-2 wraps seems to do the trick. Getting it into the seatpost without ripping up the tape can be tricky, but it does work. In contrast, the other one up v2's I have, both on my rise and my giant trance advanced 29, do not have this issue and don't need the tape.


Oddly enough I've had one in my Megatower longer than the Tallboy by about a year. It's never creaked, although I did have to fix it the cartridge rattle issue with the two wraps of electrical tape.


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

jeremy3220 said:


> Oddly enough I've had one in my Megatower longer than the Tallboy by about a year. It's never creaked, although I did have to fix it the cartridge rattle issue with the two wraps of electrical tape.


I think my issues is exacerbated because I have a 210mm post, as low as it can possibly go in my XL frame, before the actuator starts acting up. I think there is some weirdness to how santacruz does, or does not fully reem/finish the seat posts where the internally sleeved dropper remote routing comes out.


----------



## Offthepath (Dec 29, 2020)

I just got a oneup 180mm dropper and it will not release (or takes a lot more pressure) when sitting with all your weight on the saddle. If you unweight the post and push the release it drops fine. It seems to happen at any travel. 

I previously had a dropper that had the cable furrel end connected at the remote. I have reused this remote and soldered an end onto the cable so it works with the oneup post. I don't know why this would be an issue, but wanted to mention it. 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Anyone running a OneUp dropper slammed and having it sticking if you tension the seat post clamp? I just serviced my dropper with a v2 service kit and it's stiff to push down or up if I run it slammed which is the normal position. The old collar measures .98mm thick, the new one measures 1mm. If I clamp the dropper 1/2 or so from slammed, it works fine.

I'm guessing the dropper stanchion is getting pinched because the new collar is thicker. It ran fine for the most part with the old one. I guess I'll have to put hit the new collar with some sandpaper.


----------



## gocat (Feb 27, 2012)

Trinimon said:


> Anyone running a OneUp dropper slammed and having it sticking if you tension the seat post clamp? I just serviced my dropper with a v2 service kit and it's stiff to push down or up if I run it slammed which is the normal position. The old collar measures .98mm thick, the new one measures 1mm. If I clamp the dropper 1/2 or so from slammed, it works fine.
> 
> I'm guessing the dropper stanchion is getting pinched because the new collar is thicker. It ran fine for the most part with the old one. I guess I'll have to put hit the new collar with some sandpaper.


I run mine slammed. No issues.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

gocat said:


> I run mine slammed. No issues.


Well that's disappointing for me. I've always had it being finicky running it slammed with how much clamp tension is used. I originally had it on my FS carbon frame. I could torque the seat post clamp to 2.8Nm and it would not shift out of place under normal riding and it worked decently. I ended getting a Fox for the FS and moved the OneUp to the HT. 

If I set the torque to above 2.6Nm with the new service kit, the dropper starts to stick. If I back off the torque, the saddle works normally but I can also rotate it easily in the seat tube. I've put back the previous collar for now. Ah well.


----------



## idividebyzero (Sep 25, 2014)

I installed a 34.9 and its making a clank when it engages on and off, anyone know what is causing that? I think it's the pins sliding up and down since there is some up and down play when halfway down (but not full extended or lowered), is that normal?


----------



## oab1 (Apr 18, 2018)

Trinimon said:


> Well that's disappointing for me. I've always had it being finicky running it slammed with how much clamp tension is used. I originally had it on my FS carbon frame. I could torque the seat post clamp to 2.8Nm and it would not shift out of place under normal riding and it worked decently. I ended getting a Fox for the FS and moved the OneUp to the HT.
> 
> If I set the torque to above 2.6Nm with the new service kit, the dropper starts to stick. If I back off the torque, the saddle works normally but I can also rotate it easily in the seat tube. I've put back the previous collar for now. Ah well.


I have the same issue on the v1. It makes sense since you basically clamping on the upper DU bushing, where there is the least amount of clearance for the post. Gotta use some assembly paste (fiber grip or similar) so you can get away with the lower torque on the seatpost clamp without the saddle spinning every which way. I am either going to downsize to a 150mm post myself, or track down some old shims and run it with less drop so it can stick up a bit out of the seat tube.


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

I'll continue to knock down the bushings to 0.98mm if they keep coming out in 1mm thick until I get bored and switch to another brand. I've tried the least amount of torque that will allow the dropper to work freely but with assembly paste etc, the seat rotates with a light bump.

Not being able to run your dropper slammed is a bit ridiculous. No knock on OneUp. I got lots of their other stuff and love 'em and have promoted them to a lot of friends etc. Never had an issue the past two seasons until the recent service kit fiasco.


----------



## JohSch (Sep 19, 2016)

OneUp engineered the V2 a bit weird (the upper bushing is responsible for restricting the max travel of the post).
So therefore the travel pins always crash into that bushing until they wander into it (which doesn´t take long).

Problem:
As soon as they do, the posts gets stuck somewhere in travel as the bushing is heavily deformed and hinders the posts movement.
Plus you´re getting ~175mm instead of 170mm of travel as the pins slide halfway into the bushing.

My OneUp 180 eats up the upper bushing like crazy, so I would have to exchange that bushing every other month(!), which doesn´t seem to be reasonable to me.

Poor solutions:

OneUp first had sent me free rebuild kits
then voucher codes for rebuild kits,
I started to turn them upside down, 
or turn them a bit to give the pins a new place to attack
sand them down when they´re deformed, etc
but this is all just treating the symptoms and not a long term solution.











Is there another, better solution to this?


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

Aren't all the mechanical droppers designed like this ie use a bushing to stop the guide pins/keys? I wish there was a better workaround because I've had to do the same maintenance every couple months when the dropper starts getting sticky ie sand down the high spots, rotate it a little so the keys can start impacting a new fresh part of the bushing. It's worse when you run the dropper slammed.


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Is the wear caused by guide pins impacting the bushing each time the post is raised? If so, I wonder if running lower air pressure in the cartridge would reduce the wear on the bushing at all?


----------



## REZEN (Aug 7, 2020)

My 210 has lasted 2-4 rides per week for 1.5 years without more service than opening the top and pushing in some slick honey. I just replaced the bushings, didn't notice what you are seeing though with the guide pins mashing into the top bushing....


----------



## JohSch (Sep 19, 2016)

Trinimon said:


> Aren't all the mechanical droppers designed like this ie use a bushing to stop the guide pins/keys? I wish there was a better workaround because I've had to do the same maintenance every couple months when the dropper starts getting sticky ie sand down the high spots, rotate it a little so the keys can start impacting a new fresh part of the bushing. It's worse when you run the dropper slammed.


No, there are other ways to stop the posts extension, f.ex. put a topout bumper into the cartridge/spring as f.ex. the Reverb, forks and shocks have. OneUp 180s cartridge´s max extension is about 183mm, the bushing stops it at 180mm.


I´ve contacted them:


OneUp said:


> Indeed the bushing is designed to be a replaceable wear item. rather than the top out contacting a less replaceable component of the post, the bushing takes the hit and can be replaced or cleaned up as you've been doing.
> 
> honestly, it's not common someone is able to wear them out that quickly. you must be getting a good amount of miles in.
> Typically it will take 250-350 hours of riding to potentially require replacement. regular clean and grease will extend this timeline.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

Anyone try cutting the travel reduction pins to be able to adjust the travel in smaller increments yet? Bad idea?


----------



## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

jeremy3220 said:


> Anyone try cutting the travel reduction pins to be able to adjust the travel in smaller increments yet? Bad idea?


I've considered it a few times. I have a 210mm post and I have it shimmed down to 190mm in one of my bikes, and I could really run it at 195ish. I figure the best way might be to use a drill stop and drill 3 holes in a block of wood, that way you can cut them all at once and ensure they are all the same size. You'd still need to come up with a good process of rounding the edges, but I figured i'd tackle that if/when I ever decided to do it. I will say, i feel like it's going to be pretty hard to get those little buggers in there once they are cut down to 5mm.


----------



## daviduk (Jul 30, 2021)

hi all

just bought a new v2.1 150mm one from activesport uk and fitted today and its got some horrendous saddle twist and rocks back and forth thru the post.
i see there are some oversize pins to buy for them but they are sold in sets of 3 when this post has 4 pins i believe?


----------



## yoyobuya (11 mo ago)

zstover said:


> I just want to say that I love this dropper post. I have a 2020 fuel ex AL in M/L size. It came with a 130mm dropper with a really tall collar and a tall seat clamp. I had about 4" of extra seat post exposed.
> 
> After many trips to the garage to measure, re-measure, and measure again, I concluded that the maximum seatpost insertion that trek lists for this frame is extremely conservative at 280mm for the aluminum size M/L. I found no resistance or change in angle or diameter to over 310mm on this frame so I chose to order the 210mm version. Given my height, inseam length, and frame size, I am not able to use the full 210mm of drop, but shimmed to 190mm with the collar slammed to the frame put my seat height within ~3mm of where it works well for me.
> 
> ...


Hey Zstover - Are you still liking the Oneup 210 on your Fuel Ex? I’m considering one for my EX m/l as well. Still can‘t believe that thing fits in our frame. Debating on the Oneup 210 and the BY 185. I would have sent you a PM but as a new member I’m not able to yet.


----------



## defdes (Aug 21, 2018)

Would there be any reason to order the V2.1 actuator if I don't have any space issues? I didn't realize it was an upgrade and am expecting delivery of my 180mm dropper today. I would order it prior to install if there were any benefits other than space.


----------



## jeremy3220 (Jul 5, 2017)

I think they all come with the 2.1 actuator now.


----------



## defdes (Aug 21, 2018)

Thanks man, I just looked more closely at the image on the Jenson site and you appear to be correct.


----------



## ehfour (Oct 17, 2016)

Just checking in- that its common for the air cartridge's to leak/lose air over time

Last clean and grease I swear I pumped it up to 300PSI and check yesterday and its was done to 155PSI

Time for a new cartridge or just add air like in my tires once in a while?


----------



## jasonp22 (Oct 5, 2016)

I've had mine for almost 3 years and it has not leaked air over time. I've only deflated/inflated it once (for a full servicing), and the pressure has always maintained.


----------



## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

ehfour said:


> Just checking in- that its common for the air cartridge's to leak/lose air over time
> 
> Last clean and grease I swear I pumped it up to 300PSI and check yesterday and its was done to 155PSI
> 
> Time for a new cartridge or just add air like in my tires once in a while?


Losing some pressure over time is normal...well over 30% is definitely not. 2 things at [maybe] play here: not accounting that connecting the pump causes a drop in pressure (but not that big...), or ambient temperature affecting current pressure. The second bears some explaining: if you inflated to 300PSI in the mid summer, and checked it in the dead of winter in an unheated garage, it'd be lower, significantly. If you combine the two things, I could see your pressure 'loss' being plausible. 

That said, it's far-fetched. Maybe shoot @OneUp an email.


----------



## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

ehfour said:


> Just checking in- that its common for the air cartridge's to leak/lose air over time
> 
> Last clean and grease I swear I pumped it up to 300PSI and check yesterday and its was done to 155PSI
> 
> Time for a new cartridge or just add air like in my tires once in a while?


I lose that much pressure with a immediate reconnect. Low volume, high pressure. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

Had another cartridge crap out on me today on my OneUp V2, making it 3 thus far.
First one was last day on a 3 day MTB trip. Seat post wouldn't stay up or down even with the cable removed from the post. Got home and took out the cartridge and it wouldn't stay compressed. And when compressed, it wouldn't stay down.
2nd one was 42 miles into a 50 mile ride, same issue as above.
3rd one happened today, same symptoms. This one I decided to take apart the cartridge to see the issue. The tiny spring at the head of the actuator is broken into two pieces. I don't have the other two broken cartridges to look into as I already threw them away.
I followed this process to take it apart. You can see the tiny spring at the actuator head. NSMB.com - A Look Inside the OneUp Dropper Post V2

Instead of ordering a new cartridge again, I ordered a PNW Loam. I'm done with the One Up.


----------



## EatsDirt (Jan 20, 2014)

the-one1 said:


> Had another cartridge crap out on me today on my OneUp V2, making it 3 thus far.
> First one was last day on a 3 day MTB trip. Seat post wouldn't stay up or down even with the cable removed from the post. Got home and took out the cartridge and it wouldn't stay compressed. And when compressed, it wouldn't stay down.
> 2nd one was 42 miles into a 50 mile ride, same issue as above.
> 3rd one happened today, same symptoms. This one I decided to take apart the cartridge to see the issue. The tiny spring at the head of the actuator is broken into two pieces. I don't have the other two broken cartridges to look into as I already threw them away.
> ...


What lever are were you using? I wonder if too much cable tension and/or too much cable throw is hammering the plunger assembly…


----------



## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

^ that's a high possibility the cause of the problem. I'm using a race face lever.


----------



## mnpikey (Sep 18, 2017)

I have two V2 180mm droppers and one V1 180mm dropper on various bikes. V1 is my old dropper and now on my wife's bike. One V2 on my own MTB and another on sons. One on my current MTB has over 10,000 miles in 2 years now and still working like new. The V1 wife is using has around 8,000 miles and also working like new. No complaints here!

Only issue, I just built up a new Santa Cruz Blur with AXS and installed an AXS dropper. OneUp has set the bar high for the AXS dropper to perform! Due to the large collar on the AXS dropper, I had to install a 150mm travel. On the same bike, a 180mm OneUp dropper gave the exact same overall extended height. Just wanted to get rid of the extra cable and have an extra battery on the bike in case it was needed for the drivetrain on longer 100+ mile rides.


----------



## northvanguy (Sep 24, 2010)

Hey All

I'm on a 210mm V2 dropper... has worked flawlessly for years but now starting to ghost move a bit when not fully down or up.

Basically if post is fully down it works. If fully up works. 

Anything in between it seems to creep. Up if I'm standing or down if I'm sitting.

I've made sure the cable not too tight. Have checked the actuator. 

Even changed the housing and cable not long ago.

I'm not really familiar with how the cartridge works so not sure if it's just time for a swap out or not?


----------



## Trinimon (Aug 6, 2019)

northvanguy said:


> Hey All
> 
> I'm on a 210mm V2 dropper... has worked flawlessly for years but now starting to ghost move a bit when not fully down or up.
> 
> ...


Sounds like the cartridge is pooched. You can contact oneUp and see if they will send you a free one or you can buy a replacement one on their site. It's an easy 15min swap.


----------



## teK-- (Dec 3, 2011)

JohSch said:


> OneUp engineered the V2 a bit weird (the upper bushing is responsible for restricting the max travel of the post).
> So therefore the travel pins always crash into that bushing until they wander into it (which doesn´t take long).
> 
> Problem:
> ...


Excuse my ignorance, but is this part the upper bushing?










It just looks thinner/whiter than the pic you posted.

I took mine out after the first 3 rides to check and it has some very light gouges in it.


----------



## HardManPedal (Mar 18, 2021)

I have a problem with a new V2 210. It doesn't return all the way on the bike.
When it is 300psi out of the bike, though the dropper can return completely, the dropper moves rather slow.
When I insert it into be bike with only 2N.m clamp, the dropper didn't return all the way up.
There is a significant resistance in the dropper. What is it? Upper white bush being too thick? 
If I sandpaper the white bush, how much grind is too much?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

Double check the air. It sounds like there isn’t enough air in it (300psi should make that thing fly out with a hard thwack sound, especially when out of the bike (or in it). Sometimes these tight air valves on droppers aren’t conducive for a proper release when unthreading the shock pump. I’ve had to do it a time or two on a recent KS Lev post.



HardManPedal said:


> I have a problem with a new V2 210. It doesn't return all the way on the bike.
> When it is 300psi out of the bike, though the dropper can return completely, the dropper moves rather slow.
> When I insert it into be bike with only 2N.m clamp, the dropper didn't return all the way up.
> There is a significant resistance in the dropper. What is it? Upper white bush being too thick?
> If I sandpaper the white bush, how much grind is too much?


----------



## HardManPedal (Mar 18, 2021)

It's 300 psi. It's slow rising, not to the top. 
What is it? Upper white bush being too thick?
If I sandpaper the white bush, how much grind is too much?


----------



## svinyard (Aug 14, 2017)

sounds like it could be the bushing. Contact OneUp, they’ll be able to help you faster and likely send you the parts that you need quickly. If it’s not coming up fast while out of the bike, something is definitely wrong.

have you tried greasing it with fresh slickoleum? Maybe it’s just bone dry? It’s a really fast and easy thing to do


----------



## HardManPedal (Mar 18, 2021)

svinyard said:


> sounds like it could be the bushing. Contact OneUp, they’ll be able to help you faster and likely send you the parts that you need quickly. If it’s not coming up fast while out of the bike, something is definitely wrong.
> 
> have you tried greasing it with fresh slickoleum? Maybe it’s just bone dry? It’s a really fast and easy thing to do


The dropper is greased. I sandpaper the bushing from 1.20mm to 1.10mm. But the dropper still have the same strong resistance even after I remove the upper bushing. Something else is wrong.


----------



## HardManPedal (Mar 18, 2021)

I find where the problem is. 
It's either the diameter of the upper tube or the lower tube. 
They are too tight, there is a lot resistance even without a bushing with only 3N.m clamp. 
I continued sanding down the bushing from 1.10mm to 1mm. With 3N.m clamp, there is still resistance. 
I tried to manually push and pull the dropper up and down when holding the lever. The upper tube is even scratched with already sanded bushing with only 3N.m clamp.
It's a waste of time after a month of delivery.


----------



## OneUp (Nov 26, 2013)

HardManPedal said:


> I find where the problem is.
> It's either the diameter of the upper tube or the lower tube.


Hey there, I'm sorry to hear about the slow extension, and the damaged stanchion.
This sort of thing is typically covered under warranty, as it's considered a manufacturing defect.

If you can shoot us an email - [email protected]
I'd be very keen to help you get rolling again.

If you include your proof of purchase, shipping address, and the photos above, we can sort you out quickly.
Please feel free to reference this post on MTBR if you'd like.

Gavin
@OneUp


----------



## dculotta (Feb 3, 2013)

Hello all, hoping for help with a quick question. OneUp says the 210mm dropper can be shimmed down to 190mm travel, but I’ve seen lots of places (that aren’t OneUp) saying a 210 shims down to 180. Can anyone confirm if this is true, or that the 210 only goes to 190? Thanks!

I tried to skim this thread for answer; forgive me if I missed it.


----------



## Octopuss (May 30, 2020)




----------



## ciorbarece (2 mo ago)

Hi, I own a 120mm v2 Dropper. Is it possible to remove ALL the preinstalled pins, so that the dropper expands to 130mm?

I remember that one set of 3 pins comes preinstalled, hope that is correct.


----------



## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

ciorbarece said:


> Hi, I own a 120mm v2 Dropper. Is it possible to remove ALL the preinstalled pins, so that the dropper expands to 130mm?
> 
> I remember that one set of 3 pins comes preinstalled, hope that is correct.


I'm pretty sure the pins are what prevent the upper part of the post from rotating relative to the lower, so no you can't run the post without them.


----------

