# Best 3/32" Chain for my SS



## pulsepro (Sep 13, 2007)

I want to know what everyone thinks is THE BEST 3/32" chain for your SS; multi speed or SS-specific. I'm most interested in a chain that wears/stretches as little as possible. I've mostly used SRAM 8 speed chains and KMC X8.93 chains. I typically find that the SRAM chains wear quicker than the KMC X8.93. I'm willing to spend more cash to get a chain that lasts longer and requires less wheel/tension andjustment. I don't want this to be another 1/8" VS 3/32" chain discussion.


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

KMC Z610 HX is probably THE BEST singlespeed chain.


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## TwigJumper (Mar 14, 2012)

KMC x8.99


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## AlexCuse (Nov 27, 2011)

pulsepro said:


> I don't want this to be another 1/8" VS 3/32" chain discussion.


Ah, yet another collection of anecdotes about why one brand is better than all the others it is then  If you have a 29er this might be helpful: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/single-speed-29er-chains-770880.html

On a somewhat serious note I think you do tend to get what you pay for with chains - I just don't like to pay alot. I picked up a dura-ace chain that was for some reason on sale cheaper than other 10 speed options for my cross bike a few years ago and I find myself wondering if it will ever die. The main benefit seems to be smoother shifting (not so much a concern with singlespeeds) but it does give me a tiny bit of hope that your question has a definitive answer.

I usually run sram 8 speed chains because they are cheap/available at LBS and they seem to hold up fine, as long as I get one of the nickel plated models. I do replace them every spring though, whether needed or not.

There seems to be a useful chart here Chains for heavy riders » Super Clydesdale but it is put out by a chain manufacturer so not entirely sure how seriously to take it.


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

keep in mind that the chain life is dependent on your chainring/cog life. so even if you have a nice chain but your cog or chainring wears fast, then your chain will be forced to a premature wear as well.


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

fishcreek said:


> keep in mind that the chain life is dependent on your chainring/cog life. so even if you have a nice chain but your cog or chainring wears fast, then your chain will be forced to a premature wear as well.


Exactly, and the same is true vice versa. A chain that stretches quickly will wear out the sprocket and chainring much faster. It's also not a good idea to mix old and new chainrings, sprockets and chains because if one of those is worn it will increase wear on the new parts. Many people don't know this.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

Fatsinglespeeder said:


> Exactly, and the same is true vice versa. A chain that stretches quickly will wear out the sprocket and chainring much faster. It's also not a good idea to mix old and new chainrings, sprockets and chains because if one of those is worn it will increase wear on the new parts. Many people don't know this.


so you just replace eveything every time the chain stretches????? i can maybe see buying a nice chain while your rings and sprocket are new but eventually an 8 dollar kmc chain is as good as it gets and if it wears prematurely your still getting extra life out of your "worn" rings and cogs. finally when a new chain won't even fit the teeth anymore replace it all and start again.

i'll stop since i am dragging this off topic. my chains never exceed 10 bucks and seem to work quite well.


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

max-a-mill said:


> so you just replace eveything every time the chain stretches?????


No. I measure my chains occasionally and when one is stretched then I examine the chainring and sprocket and if there's no visible wear then I put a new chain on and put the old one in my parts bin. If there is visible wear on the chainring and sprocket then I keep the old chain for a few more months and then replace it with another old chain from my parts bin. Eventually everything wears out to the point that the chain skips and then I throw everything out and start over with new parts.


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

sorry to be a continued internet smart-ass but where does one get worn "parts bin" chains... my used chains usually go in the garbage. i would never re-use them cause they are worn out and stretched when i remove them.

wouldn't a cheap new chain be better than a worn parts bin chain? that is how i roll 90% of the time anyhow. usually takes a couple ride to quiet down if the sprockets are nearing the end of useful life but eventually they all mesh together (or it is time for a whole new setup). usually get at least 5-6 chains out of a drivetrain. my white industries freewheel has probably seen at least a dozen new chains, that thing is indestructable. they need to make chainrings out of that steel!

finally, if you really run your SS dirvetrains till they skip hat's off to you... that is one WORN OUT drivetrain. i consider myself pretty damn cheap and i have never let a drivetrain wear down that much.

edit: DOH; after rereading your post, it makes sense. reusing old stretched chains still sounds sketchy though...


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## Fatsinglespeeder (Jan 24, 2013)

I use Surly sprockets and Surly stainless steel chainrings and my drivetrains last for a very long time. You asked me what I do and I told you. I don't expect you to do what I do. Do whatever makes sense to you. Everybody has different priorities.


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## RojoRacing53 (Jul 23, 2013)

I bought 6 cutter chains from competitive cyclist when I ordered my frame and the first one seams to be working good so far. I've got about 200 extremely hard miles(lots of 15% or great accents) on it so far and it hasn't had any hiccups so far. The reason I ordered 6 of them is at $3 a piece I figured I could just use them for super muddy rides or testing before I toss on my $30 KMC d-101. In 200 miles the chain has worn from the .25 to the .5 only park tool chain wear tool so ether it broke in or maybe its only going to last another 300-400 miles. I figure at $3 a piece if I get 5-600 miles out of them I'll be happy.


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## DrewM (Jan 8, 2007)

pulsepro said:


> I want to know what everyone thinks is THE BEST 3/32" chain for your SS; multi speed or SS-specific. I'm most interested in a chain that wears/stretches as little as possible. I've mostly used SRAM 8 speed chains and KMC X8.93 chains. I typically find that the SRAM chains wear quicker than the KMC X8.93. I'm willing to spend more cash to get a chain that lasts longer and requires less wheel/tension andjustment. I don't want this to be another 1/8" VS 3/32" chain discussion.


I've used a variety on chains (Shimano/SRAM/KMC/Wippermann) in year-round riding situations, in steep terrain, and in very wet conditions.

I do find it terms of breaking chains the problem went away when I started using 1/8" chains - but the trade off was much faster wear of 3/32" cogs (stainless) and rings (alloy).

The last couple of years I have been putting more hours (and more aggressive hours) on one bike then years previous and I swear by the Wippermann Weistern 108 1/8" chain. No broken chains, they last a long time, and whether it is the plating process or the quality they do not wear my cogs/rings like other 1/8" kit I have tried - still running a 3/32" drivetrain otherwise.

-D


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## TroutBum (Feb 16, 2004)

SRAM 8 speeders. $20. 

Lather. Rinse. Repeat.


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## briscoelab (Oct 27, 2006)

I like the Sram 890 chains, although the 870's are cheaper and easier to find. I've not seen any actual real world difference between them.


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## asmallsol (Sep 20, 2007)

RojoRacing53 said:


> I bought 6 cutter chains from competitive cyclist when I ordered my frame and the first one seams to be working good so far. I've got about 200 extremely hard miles(lots of 15% or great accents) on it so far and it hasn't had any hiccups so far. The reason I ordered 6 of them is at $3 a piece I figured I could just use them for super muddy rides or testing before I toss on my $30 KMC d-101. In 200 miles the chain has worn from the .25 to the .5 only park tool chain wear tool so ether it broke in or maybe its only going to last another 300-400 miles. I figure at $3 a piece if I get 5-600 miles out of them I'll be happy.


I bought a bunch of those chains. They are pieces of junk. They would seriously stretch noticeably each ride. I would have to adjust my sliders before each ride. Eventually (after maybe 200 miles) I almost maxed out my sliders. For being so heavy and thick, I have no clue how it stretches so much. For reference, I'm 150lbs and although I'm a pretty fast rider, I don't think I should be killing chains that quick.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

Cheap chains are made from cheap materials. That's why they stretch and they don't last very long.

*Sent from my SGH-T959 using Forum Fiend v1.0.1.*


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## constmgr (Dec 24, 2008)

I have also been having problems finding a 3/32" chain that lasts more than 300 miles. Over the past two years i have rapidly "stretched" SRAM 890, 870 and 830 chains, a NOS Sachs Sedis 8 speed chain and a Shimano LX/105 chain. I run 34t Mono Veloce front and CK SS 20T rear, both in excellent shape. Lots of high desert climbing though, often continuous for a mile before a reprieve. Does the grind take that much more out of a chain? I typically get 900-1,000 miles on a well maintained 9 speed chain on my geared bike doing steeper climbs. What advantages does the KMC 610 chain have over the 8.93? I have yet to try these.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Weird, I ride in the desert quite a bit with longish climbs and haven't had any Sram or any other chain die out after 300 miles. 

I did just buy some KMC 8.93's from my LBS and compared to 610's, they feel lighter. Have only had them for a few miles, so can't comment on life. They seem pretty solid, though. If these work out, my Sram purchasing days are over, as they were $12 each.


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## DrDon (Sep 25, 2004)

Connex 7R8

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## am_dial (Aug 10, 2008)

SRAM 850/870/890 or sometimes the 951 -- mostly depending on what's on sale. I get 2000-2500+ miles out of these on my SS road bike, and 1000+ miles out of these on the SS mt bike.


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## michael1 (Nov 17, 2011)

Any new consensus on this now that a few years have elapsed? Edit, I actually think I want a 1/8" chain...

Need to decide between KMC 710SL and 810SL (TiNi)


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

why would you want a 1/8" chain? this has been discussed to death on this forum: 1/8" chains offer no benefits over narrow chains.


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## michael1 (Nov 17, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> why would you want a 1/8" chain? this has been discussed to death on this forum: 1/8" chains offer no benefits over narrow chains.


I read through a bunch of old threads and I saw a lot of people say that, but not everyone seemed to agree. I realized 710SL is the chain I have been using and it has worked flawlessly for me. I have seen images of snapped chains where the failure was in the plate at the pin joint -- the 710SL clearly has bigger plates than a regular chain, but maybe that's because a 10 speed chain is my reference point.

It seems among 3/32" chains there are still split opinions. Out of Connex and the various KMC offerings, what do people think is the best option nowadays?


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

sram vs shimano, coke vs pepsi, ford vs chevy...

where are the belt drive foks?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

max-a-mill said:


> sram vs shimano, coke vs pepsi, ford vs chevy...
> 
> where are the belt drive foks?


Out riding, not getting their fingers greasy fixing broken chains.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

I like to use old road bike chains. 

Ultegra and dura-ace chains are awesome! They are light and super strong (but pricey)


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## max-a-mill (Apr 14, 2004)

btw according to what i have seen with shimano chains; xt = ultegra and xtr = dura-ace.

if you can save a couple bucks going road vs mountain or vice versa you'll end up with the same chain; they all work great; but i always ditch the stupid pin attachment and put a kmc or sram quicklink in it's place. having a quicklink is always better than not having one in your chain.


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## orvil (Feb 19, 2016)

You guys can laugh and scoff at this all you want but I used to snap SRAM and Shimano chains like over-cooked spaghetti but I've been running a Bell SS/3-speed chain from Walmart on 2 different SS builds and haven't had a single issue. I'm a Clyde at 225# and I'm running an aluminum chain ring (32t S/R)/Niner Cogalicious (20t) combo. It might be quite a few grams heavier, ok a LOT heavier, but I'm never on the side of the trail repairing snapped chains anymore.


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## MidnightFattie (Jun 13, 2017)

Single speed Tour Divide record holder Chris Plesko uses Sram 991.


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## michael1 (Nov 17, 2011)

Ended up buying a KMC 810, which is definitely overkill since I was fine on a 710sl. Tensile strength is 1300 kgf compared to 1200 for 610hx.


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## tomboniboi (Jul 31, 2009)

Full disclosure..Im the Connex sales agent. The longest wearing 3/32 single speed chain is the Connex 7R8. Because it's got bushings, the chain wears forever.


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

tomboniboi said:


> Full disclosure..Im the Connex sales agent. The longest wearing 3/32 single speed chain is the Connex 7R8. Because it's got bushings, the chain wears forever.


Honestly thank you for suggesting that chain. I'd looked at connex in the past but ones I saw were expensive. This is reasonably priced and I trust connex and their reusable link. Just gotta wait for my kmc x10.93 to wear - has > 1500 miles and is still not near 0.5.


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## buell (Oct 15, 2015)

tomboniboi said:


> Full disclosure..Im the Connex sales agent. The longest wearing 3/32 single speed chain is the Connex 7R8. Because it's got bushings, the chain wears forever.


what about the 1r8?


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## eri (Sep 4, 2012)

buell said:


> what about the 1r8?


Look at the specs they list. 1r8 is 1500n, 7r8 is 2000. 7r8 is heavier. Looks like a beast!


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