# Specialized s-works m2 "pro" inquiry



## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Hi there, I enjoy your lively discussions on this forum (though never participated).

My new-to-me 1992 s-works purple haze frame has translucent decals (downtube "SPECIALIZED" and chain stay "M2 Pro" - why would Specialized use translucent decals!?) with "M2 Pro." I have seen some pics floating around in this forum with M2 Team from 1992 but have not seen Pro. Does anyone know the difference(s) between Team and Pro? My guess is the parts spec (XT instead of XTR/SunTour) or sold as a frame set, but I haven't found any distinction being made. Any more tube manipulations on Team model than Pro model? Is this one of 500 made? Maybe this is a replacement frame eh? Doesn't bother me either way, it's a solid, no crack frame. My size to boot! It rides really, um, harsh

Anyway, why did Specialized use transparent decals? I say this because all other yellow decals (including Duralcan) are 100% intact. If only downtube decals had faded, that's a pretty awsome effect, don't you think? And I'm 99.9% sure it's not peeled off, as the chain stay protective film is applied over the "M2 Pro" translucent decal (see pic).

Thank in advance. It just makes me wonder as none of the 1992/1993 catalogue mention anything about "Pro" model. And all pics have yellow "SPECIALIZED" downtube decals.


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

hatake said:


> why would Specialized use translucent decals!?)


It looks cool? 



hatake said:


> My guess is ...... or sold as a frame set, but I haven't found any distinction being made.


Pretty sure that they decal-ed the framesets sold separately with "Pro". I'm not at all sure though, it's been a long time and I wasn't looking too closely at the decals.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Hmm, I expected yellow decal, so I was going to make one - until it made me think somehow it was how it came out from the factory. I would've taken Ned replica if I had a choice. This one has its own character, just wanted to see how it was originally.


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## IF52 (Jan 10, 2004)

My 92 purple haze S-Works M2 had all subtle decals like the one in the picture except the S-Works decals on the head tube and seat tube which were yellow and red I think.


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## hatake (Jul 16, 2004)

Hey IF52, thanks for confirming. I doubted that it faded only on such a spot on area, but couldn't figure out why Specialized used that kind of low key decals. And someone else's beautiful M2 purple haze on this forum (yours for one) having regular yellow letters didn't help either


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## Dutchboy1 (Jul 29, 2011)

Hi hatake,

I tried to look at your pic but it has been removed.
I think I have the exact same bike in mint condition...< 75mi...
I bought it new and have been storing it in my basement for 20yrs.
I just took it out this summer and added some goodies to it. I really like the bike.
The boys at the LBS thought it was so cool to see a bike with 'Made in USA' on it.


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## uphiller (Jan 13, 2004)

While those shifters are totally functional, the brake levers they are attached to are designed for V-Brakes. Your current combination of V-Brake levers with cantilever brakes gives you a brake with poor stopping power and a rock-hard feel at the lever. Do yourself a favor and replace either the brakes with V-Brakes (if you're not so concerned with maintaining the bike's period correctness, which is already compromised by the seatpost), or the shifter-brake levers with something from the early 90's (if you are concerned with period correctness).


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## Mr Cabletwitch (Apr 16, 2009)

uphiller said:


> While those shifters are totally functional, the brake levers they are attached to are designed for V-Brakes. Your current combination of V-Brake levers with cantilever brakes gives you a brake with poor stopping power and a rock-hard feel at the lever. Do yourself a favor and replace either the brakes with V-Brakes (if you're not so concerned with maintaining the bike's period correctness, which is already compromised by the seatpost), or the shifter-brake levers with something from the early 90's (if you are concerned with period correctness).


I'm pretty sure you can get those shifter brake lever combos in a canti lever. It could be that.


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## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

uphiller said:


> While those shifters are totally functional, the brake levers they are attached to are designed for V-Brakes. Your current combination of V-Brake levers with cantilever brakes gives you a brake with poor stopping power and a rock-hard feel at the lever. Do yourself a favor and replace either the brakes with V-Brakes (if you're not so concerned with maintaining the bike's period correctness, which is already compromised by the seatpost), or the shifter-brake levers with something from the early 90's (if you are concerned with period correctness).


Thats a slippery slope. I totally agree though. Some used xt or xtr v-brakes would be a good upgrade. Better yet find some xt thumb shifters and the old brake levers. We can let the seatpost slide. Were Thomson posts around in 92?


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## uphiller (Jan 13, 2004)

The levers on the bike are definitely V-levers, the pivot is very close to the handlebar... I think some of the levers have a second leverage position, you disconnect the brake, pop the cable out of the lever and then move the link-y think the cable hooks into down a notch in the lever. Not sure if those particular levers have that feature, and also, I recall that the second leverage position is still on the high extreme of canti territory, ie, it is not ideal.... Not just a question of taste, but also of safety, as cantis with a V-lever have very poor stopping power, esp. if you are coming from discs.


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## old'skool (Jul 2, 2011)

@ Dutchboy : 

Nice bike !!!

I would ditch the shifters/brake levers. Grab an LX or XT rapidfire. *ahem* I just happen to have a LX set laying around.....


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## proslackass (Aug 16, 2009)

What is the diameter of the head tube? It looks like 1 1/8, but I don't know...


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

proslackass said:


> What is the diameter of the head tube? It looks like 1 1/8, but I don't know...


looks like 1" to me.


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## muddybuddy (Jan 31, 2007)

proslackass said:


> What is the diameter of the head tube? It looks like 1 1/8, but I don't know...


Head tube is probably about 1-3/8" to 1-1/2"


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## nailtrail (Jul 13, 2011)

that purple thing is pretty...


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