# Replacement crank suggestions for 91 Merlin



## StephenR (Apr 5, 2011)

After a few years layoff from riding I was going over my 91 Merlin mountain bike to tune it up for some spring riding and noticed that my non drive-side Grafton crank is cracked. They held up pretty well for me considering they were put on the bike back in 93. Frame still has the WTB grease guard bottom bracket. I stopped obsessing over and keeping up with the march of progress enough years ago that I could use some pointers about replacement cranks. From my limited research so far it seems like using new drive train components is not a cost effective way to go and may be impossible due to the changes in frame tubing etc. over the years. Any suggestions for compatible vintage cranks would be much appreciated. Chain alignment etc. is currently good and money is currently tight so if there is a possibility of replacing only the broken crank with an inexpensive mis-matched crank temporarily while I search for either another set of joystix or different vintage cranks that would be helpful in getting me back out and riding quickly. Below are the rest of the specs for the bike. Certainly no longer state-of-the-art but it is still a nice ride that seems worth salvaging. 

One other quick question. I am not sure how to measure the length of my current crank arms. Do I measure the entire length or from the center of where they attach to the spindle

Thanks!

1991 Merlin titanium hardtail frame
Rockshox SID fork (1999)
Wheelsmith wheel set with Mavic rims, White Industries hubs
Grafton Joystix
Grafton brake levers with Shimano XTR brakes
Shimano XT thumbshifters with XT and XTR drive train components
Chris King no-thread headset
Ibis Ti stem and Ti handlebars
WTB Greaseguard BB
Selle Italia Ti Flite saddle


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## Rumpfy (Dec 21, 2003)

Finding replacement Joystix in good shape would set you back.

Good strong replacement options that fall in line with what you've got going on that won't totally break the bank...

Ritchey Logic
M900 XTR

Not sure on your Graftons, but usually the length is stamped on the back of the crank arm.


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## StephenR (Apr 5, 2011)

Hey Eric
Thanks for the suggestions. Length was definitely stamped on the back (175mm), never noticed before.

Realize that if I find a set of joystix in good shape they will be expensive. I would think that changing the type of cranks may also mean replacing the bb spindle so that the chain can be aligned properly and not everyone knows how to work on the WTB bb. Will have to see if the added cost of having the work done plus the cost of different cranks may end up costing almost as much a set of used joystix.


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## Jak0zilla (May 16, 2010)

AFAIK the Graftons were an easy replacement for other cranks of their vintage. Without doing the research, i'd say a Shimano crank of the day will be an easy replacement.

I'd say pull off the cranks and measure the total BB spindle length. If it's ~122mm an XT will work. If it's ~113mm an XTR should work. These are of course gross generalisations, but with a bit of measurement and some research I'm sure you can find a replacement without much money or stress. Most aftermarket cranks of this era were meant to be easy for a bike shop to just pull the Shimano OEM's off and put the CNC stuff from the display case on in their place.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Have Sugino crankset with rivited on chairings slightly used
Have Suntour xc comp crankset slighly used, and Suntour xcm crankset which is the same as xcpro but with metal chainrings brand new in box
Pretty sure the above 3 will work but not 100% because of what bb you may have.
Also have a shimano m739 crankset slightly used in need of a chainring bolt or 2. Not sure if this set will work since it's off a 95' stumpy. Pretty sure they're all 175mm exept for the xcm is 170mm but will check to verify if your interested. 

Think from shimano you'd be looking for M730, m60, or maybe m550. The only other ones that I can remember that may fit would be older Ritchey Logics, Mavic 637, older Cook Bros, Toplines, period correct White Industries, and of coarse Graftons as already mentioned, but again, depends on bb. Older Kooka could work also but unless your under 130# wouldn't.

To anyone else before you feel the need, just trying to help a fellow mtber in need so please save me from the OH you should pay the $2 for classified BS because I'd be glad to hold on to them just the same.

If interested in any send a pm
Pete "themeat"


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## yo-Nate-y (Mar 5, 2009)

Indeed---depends on your BB length. 
Another option would be to check ebay for single Grafton arms. I've seen them every now and again and they go for less than the $150-ish that full sets usually get.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

Also gotta say that I put a brake booster on the rear of my ti frame and was amazed at the difference it made. Well worth the added grams IMO.


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## StephenR (Apr 5, 2011)

Wanted to thank everyone for the suggestions so far. When I get a chance to pull off the old cranks I will be checking the length of my bb spindle and will report back.


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## Crash Section (Jul 22, 2010)

*Crank options*

The Grease guard BB is specific for a square taper. Therefore, just go into a bicycle shop that sells used bikes/vintage and you will certainly find a square taper 175mm crank arm. Just put it on and make sure that it clears the chainstays and you are in business. (Sugino, Campy, Shimano, etc...) I would not even worry about the specific taper campy vs shimano. Torque it properly and you'll be fine. Another good set of square taper cranks might be the Turbine LPs if you can find them.

Regarding the GG BB, I've taken mine apart by pressing and hammering out the spindle and bearings and replacing the unit with a set of Enduro 61903 srs abec 5 bearings, and while I was at it, a Phil wood ss spindle. My creak is gone. This was for road, but it should work the same on the mtb.
E


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