# 2013 Kona Unit



## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

Sick raw finish! 180 degrees from the crappy 2012 Duke boys orange.....
2013 Kona Unit


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

Looks a bit wonky with the oversized head tube, but I guess that's to help accommodate suspension forks right?


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## jave-mtr (Jan 4, 2007)

Is that zerostack headset really an improvement? What replacement headsets will fit?


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

The only good reason for that headtube is so people can use forks with tapered steerer tubes that they already have. There isn't an actual need for it and all forks are still offered with 1 1/8" steerers anyway. EDIT: I'm not sure about what the actual headtube dia is.

I agree, it does look silly, and I like my 1 1/8" headtube on my 2012. And I love the orange too, but that raw is equally good looking IMO.


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## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

I just sent an email to kona asking about the headtube. Is it 1.5, or just zero stack? Can't tell from the site...

Personally, I think that it is a glaring oversight NOT to have a tapered compatible headtube on any bike these days. All their aluminum bikes have it, why not the steel?

The raw finish is so badass though....wow.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Mmmm, me likey.
The 70 degree H/A too is quite the change.


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

jave-mtr said:


> Is that zerostack headset really an improvement? What replacement headsets will fit?


I would imagine something like this Chris King InSet 1 GripLock Headset 2012 100061762 at CambriaBike.com would work.


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## jave-mtr (Jan 4, 2007)

It will be interesting to see what El Train finds out. Since no actual measurements are given regarding head tube inner diameters, right now it's hard to tell what would fit!


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

i really like the old school decal but the headtube killed it. the frame would be nicer in black, general lee look.


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## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

Here is what I got: I asked about the headtube, and about the Honzo 142x12 dropouts:

Hi Lincoln, 
The 142x12 dropouts will be available sometime in the late fall for aftermarket sales. Same setup as the ’11-’12 Unit/Big Unit. We’ll have geared and single speed options.

The Unit headtube is 44mm zero stack. You can purchase an alternative lower cup (which is external, same as the Honzo) to run a tapered fork.
Thanks,
Joe

This is great! Of course I just yesterday went and bought a 2012 Unit on closeout at my local shop because I am cheap and impatient....but having the tapered fork capability on the '13 frame is so awesome!!! And now that you can get the 142x12 dropouts, you could actually have a bike with modern components. These things just add to the versatility of this bike and put it ahead of other frames in the category (like the Karate Monkey). Kona Unit FTW!


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## DrewM (Jan 8, 2007)

44mm head tube gives you the most options.

-

Really, really like the 90's logos on the steel bikes!

-D


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## hansel12 (Jul 18, 2008)

I assume the Honzo will have the 142x12 rear and not the Unit? Also, any word as to whether the Unit will be sold as a frame-only option? The Kona site shows the Big Unit as frame-only and the Unit as complete. Maybe I just answered my own question.......


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## that guy again (Oct 6, 2006)

Kanik said:


> There isn't an actual need for it and all forks are still offered with 1 1/8" steerers anyway.


Um... no. Even if you can find a nice 29er fork now with a straight steerer, good luck finding one in a few years. The world has moved on.


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## El Train (Apr 21, 2007)

hansel12 said:


> I assume the Honzo will have the 142x12 rear and not the Unit? Also, any word as to whether the Unit will be sold as a frame-only option? The Kona site shows the Big Unit as frame-only and the Unit as complete. Maybe I just answered my own question.......


yeah, the unit has standard qr axle. I just wanted to see for future possibilities. I think 142x12 will become the new standard at some point....I think you can get frame only if you want to. Just ask your dealer. Or go to Bikeman.com. they have 2012s now and will probably have 2013s soon.


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

Pictures of Unit showing off its raw finish (it was posted on Facebook by Kona)


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## [email protected] (Jul 20, 2012)

She look awesome! I actually prefer my 2012 in duke boys orange over that finish, but to each their own! 

I don't see many "improvements" so to speak, rather just variations - but hell, it's a damn good bike in the first place.


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## rob1035 (Apr 20, 2007)

that guy again said:


> Um... no. Even if you can find a nice 29er fork now with a straight steerer, good luck finding one in a few years. The world has moved on.


The manufacturers and forums buzz have moved on, I'm still not convinced I *need* a tapered steerer....but that's another argument.

Hopefully this Unit will successfully answer a lot of the "I want a hardtail 29er and have $1000 to spend" threads...:thumbsup:


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## hansel12 (Jul 18, 2008)

El Train said:


> yeah, the unit has standard qr axle. I just wanted to see for future possibilities. I think 142x12 will become the new standard at some point....I think you can get frame only if you want to. Just ask your dealer. Or go to Bikeman.com. they have 2012s now and will probably have 2013s soon.


Excellent, thanks for the info.:thumbsup:


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

rob1035 said:


> I'm still not convinced I *need* a tapered steerer


Yeah, but you might need it in the future (i.e., it's future proof) - especially considering steel's durability. Besides, 1.125" forks can be retrofitted, so there's no significant downside. I'm happy to keep riding my '11 Unit with 9mm hubs but, if buying from scratch, I'd prefer the '13 for more fork/hub options. I hoped and fully expected Kona to do this for '13.

Otherwise, I applaud the raw/paint even if I'm not sure it's "me". And I like that Kona replaced the Ignitors with Ikons - besides performance, it should sell more bikes based on parking lot test rides (Ikons are lighter, smoother, and more plush).

I'm not sure I approve of the slacker headtube angle on what is a rigid bike. One could easily make the argument that Kona is "chasing" the industry this year with 1) the raw finish, 2) oversized headtube, and 3) slacker headtube angle. Personally, I couldn't be happier with the 2011-2012 geometry.

All that aside, aesthetically I prefer the skinny tubes and traditional headset.


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## BIGABIGD (Jul 24, 2012)

Anyone know what the Unit weighs? And has anyone put a carbon fork on one?


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

> Anyone know what the Unit weighs? And has anyone put a carbon fork on one?


Think mine was 27 1/2 lbs bone stock...2011. I had some mad money and ordered a niner carbon fork and bar for it, and eventually a wheelset, and it's down around 23 1/2 now...it does feel more lively slimmed a little, but it rides just fine stock :thumbsup:


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## akaHector (Apr 30, 2012)

I think that's a kick azz bike! only concern is how the steel will hold up. is it really a raw fame? maybe not a good idea for humid places - like here in the middle of Dixie.


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

I'd imagine it's got a clear powdercoat finish


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## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Downtube is also slightly bent. More space for crowns of various suspension forks? Stronger bond between downtube and headtube? 120mm forks, maybe?


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

Stevob said:


> I'd imagine it's got a clear powdercoat finish


Ya, it's got clear coat.


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## jave-mtr (Jan 4, 2007)

Has anybody heard some reliable information when we will be seeing these bikes shipped to dealers?


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

I.V.A. said:


> Downtube is also slightly bent. More space for crowns of various suspension forks? Stronger bond between downtube and headtube? 120mm forks, maybe?


For '13, the Unit's headtube is shorter and selling with a zero stack headset. Perhaps gives the frame some panache, too, although the bend makes the frame weaker (all things unchanged) as I understand.

The whole bike costs what a Niner steel frame costs - it's a bargain.


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## camarogirl5 (Aug 20, 2012)

have no clue trying to post 5 so I can start a thread sorry..


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## camarogirl5 (Aug 20, 2012)

...


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

jave-mtr said:


> Has anybody heard some reliable information when we will be seeing these bikes shipped to dealers?


My LBS said they get new Units in Sept/Oct.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

montana_ben said:


> Think mine was 27 1/2 lbs bone stock...2011. I had some mad money and ordered a niner carbon fork and bar for it, and eventually a wheelset, and it's down around 23 1/2 now...it does feel more lively slimmed a little, but it rides just fine stock :thumbsup:


I just put on some Stans Archs on mine and am running tubeless Schwalbes. Figure I've dropped at least a pound and a quarter of rotational weight, and it has made a big difference on the climbs. I agree it rode fine stock, but now that I have the new hoops on I'd never go back. They should do a cheapo and a less cheapo set up. Tubeless tires and decent rims kill it.


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## shackleton47 (Mar 15, 2011)

Price?


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Got the arch rims from Stans direct. They are onsale for 40 bucks now, get it while you can!
Built them around some fire-eye hubs that my friend is starting distribute in Canada in exchange for some design work. Build was 160 with decent spokes, so in total the wheels cost about 250, and they are great.


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## dc_glidden (Oct 27, 2011)

nice look


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## Flat Ark (Oct 14, 2006)

I.V.A. said:


> Downtube is also slightly bent. More space for crowns of various suspension forks? Stronger bond between downtube and headtube? 120mm forks, maybe?


I thought the bent down tube was there to give you more clearance to jam your foot in there so you can do freestyle tricks!???


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## Mad Dingo (Feb 9, 2006)

Bought one, should arrive next week. Will post pics. 

Thinking of WI ENO cranks. 

Thoughts? Better options? Has to be 44t minimum.


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

*Head tube angle*

Does anyone know if the head tube angle measurement on Kona's website is for the frame with the P2 fork on it, or with a suspension fork? Kona e-mailed me and said that the frame was designed to run a 100mm fork, but it doesn't make sense to list the HTA for a susp. fork when the frame comes with a lower axle-to-crown rigid fork. ???

I just ordered one of these (frame only), but now I'm concerned that the already slack HTA on the small (listed as 68.5) will get even more slack when I throw my 100mm fork on it.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

*a question of units*



cackalacky said:


> Does anyone know if the head tube angle measurement on Kona's website is for the frame with the P2 fork on it, or with a suspension fork? Kona e-mailed me and said that the frame was designed to run a 100mm fork, but it doesn't make sense to list the HTA for a susp. fork when the frame comes with a lower axle-to-crown rigid fork. ???
> 
> I just ordered one of these (frame only), but now I'm concerned that the already slack HTA on the small (listed as 68.5) will get even more slack when I throw my 100mm fork on it.


You're right, it doesn't make sense. Kona's website only references the complete bike with P2 fork, so its hard to imagine the geo numbers actually match up to some undisclosed suspension fork of different dimensions, right?

Kona's website list the 2013 fork's axel-to-crown length as 18.5" (470mm) and NOT ~505mm for a 100mm fork. The 2012 Unit's fork is listed as 19.9" (505mm). And the 2011 is listed as 18.2" (462mm). So who friggin' knows!

For strict geo numbers, I'd be more likely to trust the website and guess the e-mail was just saying a 100mm "works fine" with the frame (it won't break, geo is in the ball park, etc).


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Yeah, I think I'm overthinking this. I just sent my question above to Kona support and this is what they e-mailed me:

_*Hi, when you get the 100mm fork on and set it up with normal sag you'll get
pretty well the same geometry as with the stock P2.

No one's come back and said too slow or floppy yet.

Happy Trails! *_

So I'd say the website references the geo with the rigid fork. 
Going to stop obsessing about this. The Kona I rode yesterday, while it had the rigid fork on it, rode just fine...

BTW, Ryder1, where do you see the axle to crown length?


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

cackalacky said:


> Ryder1, where do you see the axle to crown length?


The "FL" (fork length) number on the Detailed Specs page is the a-to-c.


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## HelmutHerr (Oct 5, 2012)

jave-mtr said:


> Has anybody heard some reliable information when we will be seeing these bikes shipped to dealers?


From my understanding the things are selling out before they've even arrived, which is creating a backlog.

I'm in Australia and the shop postponed delivery by another week because they're cramming them on crates as fast as possible and still haven't shipped mine.


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

cackalacky said:


> I just ordered one of these (frame only),


2013 frame? Where did you buy it from? My LBS only sells as complete bike, and only frames I could find online were 2012 frames.


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## Mad Dingo (Feb 9, 2006)

I ordered mine from Bikeman.com. Super good service. Came a couple days ago. I upgraded the BB and Crankset and kept everything else except the wheels.

It looks even better in person.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I run a 100mm fork on mine and didn't find any noticeable change to the geo. So much more fun to ride with a little squish up front, just don't buy a Rekon.


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## Moonshine (Aug 12, 2008)

I've got a 2011 Unit and run a 80mm WB Magic29 fork and didn't notice any difference in handling except for the squish. I enjoyed riding rigid but as my skills progressed I was trying knarlier trials and the rigid was beginning to beat me up pretty bad! Still, the Unit is an excellent bike, so I'm set for a good while! And I appreciate the upgrades for 2013, so any of you on the fence should at least sip the kool-aid since the new bike "conforms" with the new component designs that are offered now.

And while I also appreciate the different finishes offered each year, I'm glad I was able to get the white version late last year since I like that color combo the best! But to be fair I haven't seen a 2013 in person yet, so WTF am I babbling about anyway...


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## HelmutHerr (Oct 5, 2012)

What's comparable to the Unit in the price range? I'd love to have it, but if the supplier delays me for another week I reckon I'll pick up something else instead, since I want to go on a group ride some friends have planned soon.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

How much does the Large 2013 frame weigh?


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## wfo922 (Dec 14, 2009)

Is it available as frame only?


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## RyeRey521 (Jun 9, 2012)

I believe only the "Big Unit" is for sale as a frame only... Thats the Scandium version...

On another note, I love the hardware for the rear sliders.... I've seen them in person and would love a set for my monocog flight.....


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

*Yes you can*

You can buy the regular Unit as frame only. I believe the cost is around $500 or a bit more. Here's mine built up as a 2x9:


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

Just picked up my 2013 in 18". Bit heavier than I thought it'd be. 27.4lbs


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

crackerbat said:


> Just picked up my 2013 in 18". Bit heavier than I thought it'd be. 27.4lbs


Stock wheelset is heavy. Not bad to start with I guess, but the upgrade to tubeless etc. makes a huge difference. Dropped a pound or so outta my wheels/tires without spending too much dough.


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

jcitizen1 said:


> Stock wheelset is heavy. Not bad to start with I guess, but the upgrade to tubeless etc. makes a huge difference. Dropped a pound or so outta my wheels/tires without spending too much dough.


I lost more weight than the bike weighs recently.. cheaper and more fun to lose weight on me.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

How much does 2013 frame only weigh?


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> How much does 2013 frame only weigh?


no idea, but i'm sure it's a pig. thick tubes are thick.


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## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

crackerbat said:


> no idea, but i'm sure it's a pig. thick tubes are thick.


The reason I'm asking is I have the white 2011 version. I read somewhere the 2013 weight is considerably lighter than the older models. Doesn't matter much to me, just curious.


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> The reason I'm asking is I have the white 2011 version. I read somewhere the 2013 weight is considerably lighter than the older models. Doesn't matter much to me, just curious.


I dunno.. my flatmate has a 2006 20" unit 2-9 and it weighs .4 lbs more only than my 18.
I should also add, he's put a heavier DH bar on it, bigger chainring, heavy ass steel pedals, and is running much heavier wheels. (he's a biiiiiig dood)


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

Dictatorsaurus said:


> How much does 2013 frame only weigh?


5.5 lbs. We stripped one down at work the other day to compare it with the 2011 frame. No real weight difference.


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

jcitizen1 said:


> Stock wheelset is heavy. Not bad to start with I guess, but the upgrade to tubeless etc. makes a huge difference. Dropped a pound or so outta my wheels/tires without spending too much dough.


I have the 2012 Unit and had it down to 26 pounds just by switching the bar, grips and putting kenda karma's on it. That stock wheelset is like 2100 grams or so. 550 gram rims and a 470 gram rear hub.


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

RyeRey521 said:


> I believe only the "Big Unit" is for sale as a frame only... Thats the Scandium version...
> 
> On another note, I love the hardware for the rear sliders.... I've seen them in person and would love a set for my monocog flight.....


Kona sliders are rock solid. They're so easy to use too. So far they've been really good at locating my wheel for good chain tension and no brake rub. This is with 10mm QR. Clearly the 12x142 is much better for that.

I took the annoying nuts off my set screws. They're unnecessary. Just tighten the set screws against the sliders after you tighten the main screws, and they won't move. The sliders are Al so it bites in well enough and holds.


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

Wate0rman said:


> I think that it is a glaring oversight NOT to have a tapered compatible headtube on any bike these days.


The tapered headtube needed to be done. Even the Shimano pro fork is not offered with an 1 1/8" steerer tube next year. There are still plenty of 1 1/8" options out there but a lot of suspension and carbon forks are going to a tapered head tube. Even some carbon forks are coming with a 15mm thru axle. There maybe 1 1/8" forks available now but lets face it in 2-3 years that number will drop.


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## pilonidal (Dec 29, 2012)

just ordered '13 unit...cannot wiat!

am planning to convert to 1x9 or 10...

Will I need to get anything else than the pats below to complete the conversion?
-rear wheel stans flow w/x9 hub
-shifter/derailleur sram x9 type 2 short cage 10 speed

still don't know about the cassette, any recc's?

[and i'm one of the wankers trying to reach 5 posts, apologies if I is in the wrong thread]


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## Sandrenseren (Dec 29, 2011)

Why not try it as a single speed for a month or two, you might enjoy it! I bought a 2012 Kona Unit just to see what all the single speed fuss was all about and now I don't ride my geared bike anymore, the Unit is just a lot more fun.


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## pilonidal (Dec 29, 2012)

not a bad idea...


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

pilonidal said:


> just ordered '13 unit...cannot wiat!
> 
> am planning to convert to 1x9 or 10...
> 
> ...


Why didn't you buy a honzo then? 1x10 with sliding drop outs, Only real difference between the frames is the geometry.

But you will need a chain guide and the CC-G hanger from Kona, they don't come with the bike. New chain and I would recommend a 11-36 cassette for that. I have a Unit and thought about doing the 1x9 conversion for some gravel road riding but its like a minimum of a $500 conversion. Plus the single speed is so much fun.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm looking to place an order for a Unit here in the next few weeks. I have been torn over building or buying complete. I've been offloading extra stuff from other hobbies to help funds, but I feel that buying complete will be the best option for me at this time. I will sell some more stuff to put towards a better wheel set though.


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## pilonidal (Dec 29, 2012)

buy a used wheel set...i mean i think that's a cheaper option...
or just get strong pulling the stock load...

and @NrsRider, honzo is too squishy up front for me, though i loved the olde blue...


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

I´m most likely going to order a Unit in the near future. Unfortunately I won´t be able to test bike sizes before i pull the trigger on one. I´m 6´2´´ 33´´ inseam.What size units are you guys riding?


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

dgroberts said:


> I´m most likely going to order a Unit in the near future. Unfortunately I won´t be able to test bike sizes before i pull the trigger on one. I´m 6´2´´ 33´´ inseam.What size units are you guys riding?


6'3" with a 34" inseam riding a 20". Fits me well. I do have the post on the high side but I was scared to order a 22" with out seeing one in person.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

Ordered a 19" unit two days ago. Hopefully getting it next week. Looking forward to playing on it. 

Purchased as a second 'play' bike but curious about the whole single speed thing.

Does anyone know if the orange stickers are easy to remove? Do the sit on top of the steel lacquer? Thinking about 'personalising' with something daft.

Also, whats the clearance like front and rear? Anyone tried a 2.3 gato or similar on theirs?


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

@octaviuos I checked today at work and there are a few layers of clear coat on top of the stickers.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

Nrs1rider

Thanks for the info. Any idea about clearance on bigger tyres? 

Anybody running a 2.4 ardent up front?

Final question, ive tried and failed with google - what size is the rear cog?


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## azmtbkr81 (Oct 10, 2005)

What a great looking frame, love the raw finish and old school decals.

I have an '07 Unit 2-9 that I love and am curious how the updated geometry compares to the '07. The 2013 has a slacker headtube angle, higher bottom bracket, and slightly longer top tube. Has anyone ridden both variations?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

Is there a difference between the '12 and '13 model?
I'm looking for my first singlespeed and can get a '12 model for a very nice price

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

octavius said:


> Nrs1rider
> 
> Final question, ive tried and failed with google - what size is the rear cog?


18t


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

Cif said:


> Is there a difference between the '12 and '13 model?
> I'm looking for my first singlespeed and can get a '12 model for a very nice price
> 
> Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


I'd say the only real difference is the internal headset on the '13 that lets you run a big external on the bottom. You can't run a tapered steerer fork on a '12.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

crackerbat said:


> I'd say the only real difference is the internal headset on the '13 that lets you run a big external on the bottom. You can't run a tapered steerer fork on a '12.


The only thing I might "upgrade" is a suapension fork but there are plenty 1 1/8 forks around.

So the only really difference is the orange color? That I like enough for 300 euro difference in price

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

Cif said:


> The only thing I might "upgrade" is a suapension fork but there are plenty 1 1/8 forks around.
> 
> So the only really difference is the orange color? That I like enough for 300 euro difference in price
> 
> Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


Prettymuch.


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

Cif said:


> The only thing I might "upgrade" is a suapension fork but there are plenty 1 1/8 forks around.
> 
> So the only really difference is the orange color? That I like enough for 300 euro difference in price
> Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


If your looking into size 20´´or 22´´ you might want to note . . 
2013 in sizes 20´´and 22´´have got slightly slacker head tube angles - now 70 and 71.
The 2012 in the same sizes was/is 71 and 72 . . .


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

What are people paying for the frame/fork combo? Thinking about ordering one in the near future.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

Picking mine up tomorrow, sticking on some xo brakes and new grips straight away. 
Heading out on Sunday hopefully if I can shake this flu. 
Ill get back with my initial thoughts, really looking forward to it...


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

octavius said:


> Picking mine up tomorrow, sticking on some xo brakes and new grips straight away.
> Heading out on Sunday hopefully if I can shake this flu.
> Ill get back with my initial thoughts, really looking forward to it...


Nice upgrade.. I'm finding the the BB7s to be plenty, and they are barely broken in. The stock grips are pretty crap.


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## chongoman (Jun 25, 2006)

Does anyone have any info on tire clearance of this frame? 
Will Panaracer Rampage 2.35, or the Ardent 2.4s fit well?


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

chongoman said:


> Does anyone have any info on tire clearance of this frame?
> Will Panaracer Rampage 2.35, or the Ardent 2.4s fit well?


The tire clearance increases as you move the wheel back in the sliders but I have 2.1's on mine right now and would have no problem fitting a wider tire on there in the 2.3-2.4 range.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

picked up my 19" unit on saturday. bike looks beautiful, has to be seen in the flesh and in daylight - lovely. no photo's yet, sorry. set it up on saturday night with xo brakes from my other bike. also fitted my favourite tyres - 2.3 geax gato's front and rear (same width as ardent 2.4 - trust me). my sliders are in as short as they can on the rear and clearance is fine at both ends.

managed out yesterday for a few hours, i should add it my first time since i was about 5 , ive been on a single speed. it was cold, rainy and windy (it is scotland in february after all) but i was eager to hit the mud opting for a fairly flat loop to try everything out.

i absolutely loved it, had a laugh at my 3 or 4 attempts to shift up and down... the best part of the loop was along a very slippy muddy river bank and gearing required a bit more effort than what im use to but love the black/white nature of it - your either riding or walking. loads of teeth gnashing as well.

noticed that the chainstays behind the bb shell is a bit a shelf for mud but everything kept rolling just fine despite the dollop of muck catching a ride. 

ill trim the bars down to 680mm but other than than, id say its just about spot on for me. ill plan to head into the hills properly next weekend for a more major ride. 

very early days on a single speed but i reckon this will really help both my riding and fitness. i also note that there is a lot less to 'think' about, gears dont exactly tax your brain but its another aspect that you can forget about and just ride. its quiet as well other than the heavy breathing...

its a bit heavier as well but im certainly no weight weenie. it will be interesting to compare the kona to my other bike (a 20 speed ti jones) after ive exclusively ridden one gear over everything i normally ride over the next few week. who knows? that might just lose 19 gears as well?

overall, a fantastic bike for the money and throughly recommended in my very limited experience so far. cannot wait to get out again. work really gets in the way sometimes...


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

oct,
Take her out for a few more rides before cutting the bars.
Find the x-width real helpful when grinding, or mashing away.


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

Flyin_W said:


> oct,
> Take her out for a few more rides before cutting the bars.
> Find the x-width real helpful when grinding, or mashing away.


Speaking of bars - what is the actual width of the bars and what sort of length is the stem on the stock build?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

dgroberts said:


> Speaking of bars - what is the actual width of the bars and what sort of length is the stem on the stock build?


My 2012 has 710mm wide bar and a 80 mm stem

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

Cif said:


> My 2012 has 710mm wide bar and a 80 mm stem
> 
> Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


Ok, thanks. I guess the ´13 has the same setup.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

By the way, my '12 is size 19".
Maybe there s a difference in sizes

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

Could be, i´m going for a ´13 size 20"


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Got my 2013 unit yesterday!! Threw some parts on it that I had at the house....looks great, and having the first ride saturday! Weighing in at 22 # 4oz. Pretty dang light, and there really isnt anything weight weenie about it other than the fork! 

I will post pics and some parts that I weighed individually while I had it apart. But, i probably won't post until Sunday.


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

texasnavy05 said:


> Got my 2013 unit yesterday!! Threw some parts on it that I had at the house....looks great, and having the first ride saturday! Weighing in at 22 # 4oz. Pretty dang light, and there really isnt anything weight weenie about it other than the fork!
> 
> I will post pics and some parts that I weighed individually while I had it apart. But, i probably won't post until Sunday.


must have had some good stuff sitting at home to lose 5 and a half pounds with just left overs :0


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## supersquad3 (Jan 13, 2008)

any ideal of the frame weight?


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

supersquad3 said:


> any ideal of the frame weight?


Someone stripped one down, 5.5lbs not sure what size it was.


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## supersquad3 (Jan 13, 2008)

I'd really like to build up a 650b explosif, but heard its close to six pounds. Hate buying hardtail frame that weights more than my full squish frame.


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

*Here's my new Unit!*

Finally got around to putting up some pics.

Final weight was 22lbs 4 oz with another 300 grams to be shaved when my post/stem/bar get here. So, mid 21lb range. Not bad at all!!

Here is a list of a few things that I weighed from the stock build as I was swapping things out.

-Kona p2 29er fork-1158 g
stem-128g
bar 286 g
grips 93g
pedals 528 g
tires-712/708 g
tubes 182/ 191
reflectors 117 g
front qr 57 g
front wheel (with tape, no valves, no qr) 1071
front rotor 151
rear qr 66 g
rear rotor 119
I didnt have the tool to remove the cog, so i weighed the rear wheel with it, but i suspect the cog only added about 35-50g rear wheel was 1381 g
bashguard with bolts 118 g
32t chainring 40 g
post 337 g
wtb volt saddle 287

I swapped out the wheels, fork, saddle, cog, tires, pedals, rotors, grips, and removed the bash.


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## supersquad3 (Jan 13, 2008)

thanks for posting the pics. Gives me a idea that they can be built up light. What size frame is that?
thanks


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

supersquad3 said:


> What size frame is that?


19 inch frame

also, ive heard alot of good stuff about the bb7's but i honestly feel like they aren't very powerful at all. I'm thinking about getting some organic pads to try and help, but I may just get some slx and be done with it. ideas?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I just placed my order for an 18" Unit!

Also use the directions in this link to set up your BB7s and they will through you over the bars.

Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

HA I couldn't afford that type of Unit!


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## jackspade (Jul 23, 2010)

Is there any 26" wheels for this type?
I only see 29" on the websites. 

I really love Kona since I have one now, it ride like a wind swoosh swoooshh.. humpffhh humpffh.. #*%^& ... 

Oh wait that's sound of some gear riders trying to catch up with me.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

If you look for an older frame they were once 26" same with the Explosif.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

just a quick update.

4 hours on saturday up the hills

4 hours on sunday on a coastal trail

ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC!!

totally loving my unit, still getting my head around one gear but its really starting to click. 

its silent which seems oddly beautiful and the geometry, wide bars (thanks flyin_w you were right) are so assured.

the gato's give an ideal amount of float (25 rear and 23 front) and my xo's are super powerful.

blasted a section yesterday that (felt) like the fastest ive ever ridden it.

grinning lots - feeling it in my legs today but thats got to be a good thing.

is it the weekend yet?


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## jackspade (Jul 23, 2010)

worrptangl said:


> If you look for an older frame they were once 26" same with the Explosif.


Oh I see, I know explosif and too bad it's too expensive for me.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

jackspade said:


> Oh I see, I know explosif and too bad it's too expensive for me.


Not the new one. The older frames. The geometry might be slightly different but they still had sliders if I remember correctly.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

octavius said:


> just a quick update.
> 
> 4 hours on saturday up the hills
> 
> ...


Sounds like you're hooked on SS. One gear is all you need.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

- 2012 head tube only accepts 1 1/8 straight steerers.
- head tube angle ia different on frame sizes above 20" (not 100% sure about that though)
- Colour

I love my 2012 unit in 19"

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I just got the call that my unit with be shipping out monday!! It took the my LBS negotiating with their distributor for over a week to get the shipping down since it was a custom order. The distributor wanted $400 to ship it!! I asked if they were adding a pallet to the weight. I'm happy though it's $50 higher than initial quote for shipping but was told I would be taken care on the back end since I have some parts to be put on instead of the OEM.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

I love my 2013 Kona Unit! My first SS and I'm hooked! 

Mods so far are: Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers (made a huge difference), ODI Rogue Grips (the most significant upgrade for me), BBG Drilled Alloy Bashguard (just cos I had a new one lying around and it's a little lighter), Wellgo V12 Pedals (also had it stock and better than standard pedals) and mounted up the Garmin 705 on the stem.

Also just drilled a hole at the lowest point of the bottom bracket as I've already had a heap of water collect in here. Almost seized a bearing on the non-drive side of the BB, I'd certainly suggest at least regularly checking this, there is no where for water to go from here. 

Future plans are: Carbon Bar and Seat Post for a little more give and to lose a little weight, and I'll probably go to a Stans wheelset and run tubeless too eventually. I'm not real happy with the BB7's, maybe I'll get used to them but I've got Avid Elixr CR's on my other bike and BB7's aren't a patch on those. 
I'd like to get the bike down to sub 10kg which is quite achievable by the looks. But overall for the money - hey I'm loving this thing!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

gilly_mtb said:


> I love my 2013 Kona Unit! My first SS and I'm hooked!
> 
> Mods so far are: Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers (made a huge difference), ODI Rogue Grips (the most significant upgrade for me), BBG Drilled Alloy Bashguard (just cos I had a new one lying around and it's a little lighter), Wellgo V12 Pedals (also had it stock and better than standard pedals) and mounted up the Garmin 705 on the stem.
> 
> ...


I follow the directions in this thread for my BB7s and with very little effort you can go over the bars. Being that you have SD7 levers you can really dial in the feel.

Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Yeah I set them up using that page's directions, and yes they pull you up but I'm not convinced they could ever be as good as decent hydros. Maybe I'll have another go at it or try some different pads..


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I don't preach BB7s but I know that I haven't had any issues with them. I want to try the new XT's though.


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## BroadStBike (Dec 12, 2012)

Hi all. I ordered a '13 Unit yesterday and will be upgrading a few parts from my old SS. What size seatpost does the Unit take? 31.6"? Sorry if it's been mentioned and I didn't catch it. Thanks.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

BroadStBike said:


> Hi all. I ordered a '13 Unit yesterday and will be upgrading a few parts from my old SS. What size seatpost does the Unit take? 31.6"? Sorry if it's been mentioned and I didn't catch it. Thanks.


27.2mm

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## BroadStBike (Dec 12, 2012)

Thanks Cif!


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Well today I pulled the BB7's pads from the front of the Unit, cleaned and reinstalled. What I found in doing this was that they were never properly installed to start with! They were a ***** to get back in, but once they were properly in with a definite CLICK, they sat back in at least 5mm more than previously. Followed the mini resource setup guide once again that worrptangl posted above, and they are different brakes!

I can now pull the bike up on the front wheel easily with just one finger on the lever! Glad I didn't give up on them and can't wait to hit the trails. 
I have since read that you can have the pads nearly seated and they will work, but not well. So a huge thanks to the bike shop that I got the Unit from, another piece of shoddy work. They also left the rear cog loose, the chainring bolts started creaking, yep loose, BB was shimmed on the wrong side so the chainline was out and the brake discs were badly warped from the moment I left their shop. I got the last 19" 2013 Unit in the state and had no choice but to buy from them. :S

Ah well. It's riding fantastic now and will for years - I'm happy!


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## T__King (Mar 6, 2013)

Hey all, first post here. Glad to have found this site and all the excellent resources that it includes. I am about to buy a 2013 unit, but just have a judgment question for all of you.


The local shop has 2013's for roughly $1000, and has 2012's for roughly $850. From lurking around the site it appears that the only major change from 2012 to 2013 is the head tube? Which will affect what forks you can change to if you would like? Essentially the 2013 offers a more generic headtube setup that will allow it to accept a wider range of forks for better forward adaptability from a parts standpoint? 

I am a constant customizer to everything I buy, so this might be worth the $150 difference to me, as I plan on keeping this bike for the life of it. 

If anyone would want to confirm what I posted, or refute it, that would be much appreciated!

FWIW I am in Lincoln, NE and am most likely going to go through Monkey Wrench Cycles.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

T__King said:


> Hey all, first post here. Glad to have found this site and all the excellent resources that it includes. I am about to buy a 2013 unit, but just have a judgment question for all of you.
> 
> The local shop has 2013's for roughly $1000, and has 2012's for roughly $850. From lurking around the site it appears that the only major change from 2012 to 2013 is the head tube? Which will affect what forks you can change to if you would like? Essentially the 2013 offers a more generic headtube setup that will allow it to accept a wider range of forks for better forward adaptability from a parts standpoint?
> 
> ...


I bought a 2012 because it was 200 euro cheaper then a 2013.
Totally happy with my Unit.

As for the fork change... The only thing I would change it to would be a carbon rigid fork.
There are plenty of those with a straight steerer

Sent from my HTC one X CM10 using Tapatalk 2


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

gilly_mtb said:


> Well today I pulled the BB7's pads from the front of the Unit, cleaned and reinstalled. What I found in doing this was that they were never properly installed to start with! They were a ***** to get back in, but once they were properly in with a definite CLICK, they sat back in at least 5mm more than previously. Followed the mini resource setup guide once again that worrptangl posted above, and they are different brakes!
> 
> I can now pull the bike up on the front wheel easily with just one finger on the lever! Glad I didn't give up on them and can't wait to hit the trails.
> I have since read that you can have the pads nearly seated and they will work, but not well. So a huge thanks to the bike shop that I got the Unit from, another piece of shoddy work. They also left the rear cog loose, the chainring bolts started creaking, yep loose, BB was shimmed on the wrong side so the chainline was out and the brake discs were badly warped from the moment I left their shop. I got the last 19" 2013 Unit in the state and had no choice but to buy from them. :S
> ...


Glad to hear that you got them working.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

texasnavy05 said:


> Finally got around to putting up some pics.


Mate, that is, without exception, one of the best looking bikes I've ever seen.

I'm looking at a Kona Unit myself, but am a bit unsure of sizing.

I'm 6' with 32" inseam, all my other bikes are large and have a 23" or 23.5" top tube, and fit me well.


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

Not sure if I'm going to be able to ride one.. I really wish it came in 17"!

Anyone about 5'9-5'10 w/ 30" inseam riding a Unit? What size? I'm leaning towards the 18".


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

PDXDrew said:


> Not sure if I'm going to be able to ride one.. I really wish it came in 17"!
> 
> Anyone about 5'9-5'10 w/ 30" inseam riding a Unit? What size? I'm leaning towards the 18".


I know a few people around your height that are riding 18" units with out any problems. If anything just go to a Kona dealer and try out a 18" 29er all the geometries are pretty similar.


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## PDXDrew (Mar 1, 2008)

Nrs1Rider said:


> I know a few people around your height that are riding 18" units with out any problems. If anything just go to a Kona dealer and try out a 18" 29er all the geometries are pretty similar.


Good idea.

I might go ahead and order a set of stans Flow EX.

Anyone have recommendations on city / commuting tires I can put on the stock wheels?

Something like this?

Schwalbe Big Apple Raceguard 29Er Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

PDXDrew said:


> Good idea.
> 
> I might go ahead and order a set of stans Flow EX.
> 
> ...


Well any 700c or 29er tire will work. I don't know what your desired width is. There a ton of tires out there that aren't sold online as well. But something like these Michelins are half the price of those schwables and come in widths up to 47c.

Michelin City Reflective Strip Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## Xavonseine (Nov 1, 2012)

PDXDrew said:


> Good idea.
> 
> I might go ahead and order a set of stans Flow EX.
> 
> ...


Schwalbe Fat Franks are a possible alternative to the Big Apples. They look quite good (available in dark, brown and cream colors) and are grippy on the asphalt, even wet. These tires never failed me yet.

But note that their maximum width for 29ers is 50mm (2") while the big apples go to 60mm (2.35").

Interesting info from the Schwalbe website: "The [Fat Frank] tread design was modeled after patterns taken from our SCHWALBE archives - a grippy BMX profile paired with a classical motorcycle tire tread. Fat Frank offers more than just stunning looks; Contrary to many other wide tires it is technically on the cutting edge. Its interior is identically constructed to that of SCHWALBE's Big Apple, thus it rolls with great ease. In terms of comfort it is certainly in the category of a genuine balloon tire. Due to its large volume it can be ridden at low air pressure (about 1.5 to 2.5 bar) and therefore gently absorb those nasty bumps in the road with great success."

No, my last name is not Schwalbe


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## bjmurray (Mar 9, 2013)

+1 on the flows with this bike set up as rigid. mine on order right now


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

​
Just back from a six hour loop of the pentland hills just south of Edinburgh. Another pretty much flawless day on the unit.


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## bjmurray (Mar 9, 2013)

Here's Mine... finally enough posts to share some pics


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Nice BJ! I have orange ODI loc rings for my Rogues and orange Straitline Defacto pedals that will be going on my Unit when it comes in. Looks great!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Ok this question for owners of the complete 2013 Unit.

How hard was it to convert the stock wheelset to tubeless? Which kit did you use? ie 29er all mountain kit or 29er XC kit etc...


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## BroadStBike (Dec 12, 2012)

Good looking Unit BJ! How do you like the carbon fork? Did you try out the stock P2 steel fork first? Much difference, if you did?


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Anyone notice any oxidation underneath the clear coat on their raw Unit frame? I have a couple of spots. I contacted Kona about it, and they said it was nothing to worry about, that all steel frames had this, (but you can't see it because of the paint job) and that it wouldn't spread. I guess after a while it won't matter, when the clear coat gets worn, you can get it off. Still kind of a bummer on a brand new frame...


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

cackalacky said:


> Anyone notice any oxidation underneath the clear coat on their raw Unit frame? I have a couple of spots. I contacted Kona about it, and they said it was nothing to worry about, that all steel frames had this, (but you can't see it because of the paint job) and that it wouldn't spread. I guess after a while it won't matter, when the clear coat gets worn, you can get it off. Still kind of a bummer on a brand new frame...


Yeah I've done a few snow rides here in Milwaukee, WI.. i got orange on both sides of the sliders.. some of the welds.. the bracing on the downtube, and anywhere there's a hole in the tubes (like fender mounts and gas release ports from welding.)


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

crackerbat said:


> i got orange on both sides of the sliders.. some of the welds.. the bracing on the downtube, and anywhere there's a hole in the tubes (like fender mounts and gas release ports from welding.)


 Par for the course then, I guess. When they say RAW, they mean it. I wonder if the new Honzo is the same way. It has color in the matte finish, but I think you can also see the steel underneath...


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

cackalacky said:


> Par for the course then, I guess. When they say RAW, they mean it. I wonder if the new Honzo is the same way. It has color in the matte finish, but I think you can also see the steel underneath...


The Honzo is a bronze-ish color. Kona calls it matte gold.

Are you running the stock wheelset tubeless?


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

worrptangl said:


> The Honzo is a bronze-ish color. Kona calls it matte gold.
> 
> Are you running the stock wheelset tubeless?


I know but I think it is transparent, (you can see brazing etc. underneath) so that's why I was wondering. I bought my Unit as a frame only, so don't have the stock wheelset.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Crap! I'm still wanting to know about converting the stock wheelset to tubeless. Do you need Stan's 29er All Mountain or XC. I believe it would be the All Mountain.


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

cackalacky said:


> Par for the course then, I guess. When they say RAW, they mean it. I wonder if the new Honzo is the same way. It has color in the matte finish, but I think you can also see the steel underneath...


Hanzo is gold.. the explosif 650b is the other raw one.


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## Azpilot (Sep 29, 2010)

When does the 2014 Kona unit come out ? Would seriously consider this bike if the frame was painted.


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## Space Robot (Sep 13, 2008)

Have you checked your LBS? Mine still has at least one 2012 in stock. I believe these are either white or orange painted.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

Plenty of 2012 models still available. Only difference is the headset that only allows straight steerers.

I love my 2012 Unit, especially the orange colour.
I believe that whute was the 2011 model, but not really sure about that

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## KevinF (Jan 9, 2006)

Azpilot said:


> When does the 2014 Kona unit come out ? Would seriously consider this bike if the frame was painted.


I am in the same boat and would like to know too.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

I love my raw steel Unit, looks tough as. Had mine for about a month now (my first 29er) and it's quickly become my 'go to' bike. It's unfortunate I've spent many thousands on suspension and complicated frames when all I've ever really wanted was a full ridged 29er. People talk about 'point and shoot' in relation to really stiff suspension forks, but you haven't experienced true accuracy until you've gone full rigid. Climbs like a mofo too; haven't leapt out of my seat and attacked climbs like this since I was in my early 20's. With so much technology out there, I think people forget the raw thrill of the primitive, unadulterated XC experience. Haven't had this much fun or been so enthusiastic about riding for a very long time.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

Since this topic about the 13 model started in june last year, I would say the 14 model will be announced june this year

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## KristofferR (Jan 20, 2013)

Hi guys! New member here - first post.

I bought myself a 2013 Unit in sinze 22" a month ago.

I have ridden trails since about 2000 and have had a few HT bikes in 26" and 29" before. I turned to 29" only last year and it's unlikely that I'll go back to 26" ever again.

There was no local dealer available so I put the forums to good use in my decision. The pics from the Bikeman site of the orange 2012 model helped too. The frame looked really nice in the pictures. The raw metal looks incredibly good in the flesh.

I chose the Kona complete build - the frame & fork is €500 and the complete build around €900 [EDIT it's £800]. The kit is not spectacular but well good for the price. I'm 6'6" and the size is right - I may go for a slightly shorter stem to be able to straighten my back slighly when I stand and pedal.

The rigid/SS combination is new to me and it was with some trepidation I ventured on the trail. My hands took a beating at first. It took me a few miles to lose the death grip on the handles and a further few to trust the springiness in the frame. Then it was huge addictive fun. No chance to sit and spin the hills, instead full on attack mode.

I have run the stock 32/18 combo so far, but bought a 21T rear for my local trails based on what people usually run around here.

Due to persistent winter conditions in Sweden I have only run with Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro in 2,25". Having just turned 40, I got a xc race start as a gift. I'm looking at a 50 mile race (80km) this summer. I'm considering a few comfort options for that challenge - namely Ritchey foam grips and a fatter set of tires than the stock Maxxis Icon 2,2. Advice on that is much appreciated.

So far the only 'problem' I had with the bike was the rim strip refused to stay in place when switching tyres - took 20 mins instead of 5.

It's still a bit early to say much about the handling, but I have always felt right at home on any Kona and the Unit is no exception.


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

KristofferR, im loving my 19" unit. totally agree on moving to foam grips. 
Have you considered 'Geax Gato' tyres? I run them on both my bikes and think thy are fantastic. 2.3 size and a fraction wider than a 2.4 ardent. nice big volume - the unit frame has good clearance as well. my only problem with the unit frame is the 'mud shelf' at the chainstay/bb shell junction. i can live with it though.

planned to have the gato's as my scottish winter tyre but they are all i ever run all year round (not ever seen much dust here - sure its the same in sweden). great on everything and not even draggy or noisy on odd bits of tarmac between my ever expanding trail network, on my 3rd set. and they are cheap and hard wearing.


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## Azpilot (Sep 29, 2010)

Where is the Kona Unit made.


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## KristofferR (Jan 20, 2013)

Thanks Octavius! 

I read up on the Gatos yesterday and they seem well liked. Weird that I never thought of Geax, despite having used the Sturdy, Saguaro and AKA as OEM fitment on different bikes. Definitely worth a look, since mud and wet is the usual order of the day here too in Gothenburg. Price is nice too, which helps. Did you go for the wire bead or the folding option?


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

Hi KristofferR, your welcome.

i got the wire beads to see if id like them (got them for £18 each). im now drip feeding myself on folders which cost £27 each. considering i was prepared to spend twice to get the right tyre that is another gato bonus.


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## Azpilot (Sep 29, 2010)

Well at the Kona Units price point I'm going to go ahead and say it's made in China. If It were made in Taiwan it would be in my top two choices for my next bike, but made in China absolutely not.


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

Azpilot said:


> Well at the Kona Units price point I'm going to go ahead and say it's made in China. If It were made in Taiwan it would be in my top two choices for my next bike, but made in China absolutely not.


It's not made in China. I actually built one at work yesterday but threw the box out already. Most kona's are made Taiwan and Cambodia.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Got my Unit frame and p2 fork this afternoon and built it up. Can't wait to get it out on the trails this weekend


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

My 2012 came with wtb speed disc rims. Stans recommends the xc


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Azpilot said:


> Well at the Kona Units price point I'm going to go ahead and say it's made in China. If It were made in Taiwan it would be in my top two choices for my next bike, but made in China absolutely not.


The frame I got says made in Taiwan


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Pics?


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Been reading all the rave reviews on here and dropped some hard earned cash on a Unit. Got a great deal on a used 2013 that was barely ridden. I got to say: I'm glad I got it used because my first impression is one of buyer's remorse.

I'm hitting the singletrack tomorrow and I'm hoping some dirt, rocks, roots, and logs will change my mind. Here are my first impressions:

1) Solid. Whoa, this bike is built like a tank. If I were a clydesdale, the feeling would be awesome. As a lighter guy, I like it but wonder if it's waaay overbuilt for me. Only trail time will tell.

2) Heavy. Steel is heavier than Al. But the medium Unit punches in at 5.4lbs. That's a smidge more the Mariachi, 0.5 lbs more than the Jabberwocky, and full pound more than the SIR9. For some reason I didn't think I'd notice. But I do. This thing definitely weighs more than my geared Al hardtail.

3) Here is my biggest complaint. The hubs suck. They are not cheap or bad. They really, really suck. I just spent 45 minutes adjusting the BB7s. I couldn't figure out why they kept rubbing. I'd spin the wheels and they'd grind to halt. I was about to pull my hair out adjusting the caliper for the fifth time, when I realized there was no rubbing sound. The bb7s were perfectly setup. It's just that the hubs have a RIDICULOUS amount of drag. My wife's 2005 gary fisher marlin has never had its hubs serviced and those spin better than the Formulas that come on the Unit. This is a huge disappointment. I feel like I've got change wheelsets just to give the Unit a fair shake again the SIR9 I've been borrowing.

3) One good thing. The components selection really comes together. Cockpit (stem, bars, grips, levers) isn't light, but damn it feels good and solid. I really dig the angular stem. Looks bada$$. The orange stitching on the saddle looks so good, I may keep that anchor of a saddle. Bashguard is a nice bonus. Seatpost is heavy but looks nice. 

I weight in at 165. I feel like I'm riding a bike design for some who weights 265. The guy I bought it from had 40 lbs on me. I know why the bike shop put him on the Unit. I'm not sure a well informed shop would have put me on it. 

Anyways, the real test is in the woods. Can't sleep because I so excited to try something new out. Hope I come back with a more favorable impression!


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)




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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Looks great. What size is that, 19" or 18"? How tall are you? What length is that stem?

I'm 5'11.5", and went with a 20". I love it, it's nice and long for attacking out of the saddle. On the street it does feel a tad longish, I'm tempted to swap the 100mm Kona stem for an 80mm.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Thanks. 5'9-5'10 and went with the 18. The stem is 80mm. Yea it's worth a shot to see if it makes it a bit more comfortable. Tomorrow am will be my first ride on it


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

OK, yeah, it looks smallish compared to mine, lots of seat post. That 80mm looks just right, reckon I'll have to get one. 

I love mine so much. I have a selection of 26" duallies to choose from, but I keep going back to my full rigid Kona 29er every time. Being my first 29er, and a single speed, I'm blown away by how the bike begs you to get up out of the saddle and really attack climbs, great fun.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Theres definitely a good amount more seat post than what was on the frame I took it out of(Redline d660 19). Single speed is where it's at. I started with a 26 FS, built up the d660 as a SS hardtail and immediately enjoyed riding much more. I find myself riding with the fork locked out most of the time, so might as well save some weight and go rigid.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

With the orange grips


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## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

Kawigreen what gear is that you are running. In looking to go smaller that the 32 18 tht came stock. Its very hilly were i live.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

I've run 32-18,19,20... 19 in the pics. I'm loving this bike so far.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm still waiting for my Unit. I ordered a 19" and it's back-ordered as of now. I do however have some parts waiting to be swapped out when it arrives.

Shimano XT brakes with RT76 rotors (non Ice tech)
SLX crankset (will most likely buy a Hope BB)
Schawlbe Nobby Nic 2.35 SS - I will probably use the Ikon on the rear.
HBC SS 20t/18t cogs and 32t chainring

I'm going to wait on anything else until I get the bike.


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## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Eventually I'd like to put XT brakes on mine. The Ikons are good tires, although I just put an Ardent 2.25 up front for a little more volume and cornering bite


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## Azpilot (Sep 29, 2010)

worrptangl said:


> I'm still waiting for my Unit. I ordered a 19" and it's back-ordered as of now. I do however have some parts waiting to be swapped out when it arrives.
> 
> Shimano XT brakes with RT76 rotors (non Ice tech)
> SLX crankset (will most likely buy a Hope BB)
> ...


Curious when they switch over manufacturing to the 2014 model.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Not sure but if I were to get a 2014 model then so be it. My LBS is taking care of me though.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I just got word that a 19" showed up in the system and it's on it's way out to me in Hawaii! Should be here in the next week.


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## thedumbopinion (May 15, 2008)

I just ordered my frame today. 
The raw finish is sick. I love the gold tidbits from the braze-ons.


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Folks who swapped in a tapered fork, did you need a new headset bottom? There seem to be multiple standards for zero stack headset bottoms: 54.98mm and 55.9mm. Which ones does the 2013 Unit need? Thanks!


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## Sac29 (Jul 21, 2008)

What is a recommended upgrade to the BB keeping the FSA crankset? or replacing both?
Thanks- good thread - (Happy with my 2011)


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I just got mine in today!!!!!!

XT brakes and rotors going to be installed by the shop.

As for the crankset and BB. I'm going to replace them. I have a SLX crankset I'm going to put on and I need a BB. Most likely will go with a hope but we will see.


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## Uncle Grumpy (Oct 20, 2005)

Wow, these look great!

I like the colour and I am really digging the retro lettering on the decals.

Grumps

Edit: Faceplam. I just get back and read the earlier posts to realise that "colour" is actually a raw finish. Anyway, I still dig it.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Best BB you can get: Bottom Bracket | Chris King Precision Components

If you can't afford the Chris King (it's a lifetime investment), get this: Race Face 2013

Both are compatible with any 73mm Shimano Hollowtech crankset. I'd go SLX or XT and convert to single chainring.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I would love a king BB but not sure if I want to spend that much. I'm probably going to scavenge the BB off my stumpy until I can get a better one.

I have a few other things waiting for it like a new cog, chainring, chain, grips and a new front tire.


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## bjmurray (Mar 9, 2013)

BroadStBike said:


> Good looking Unit BJ! How do you like the carbon fork? Did you try out the stock P2 steel fork first? Much difference, if you did?


My buddy has a 2011 with the P2, love the bike but new right away i wanted the added stiffness and weight benefit of the Carbon fork. really helps get the big hoops off the ground with the type of riding i do around here. Since the pics, I have added a shorter stem and some carbon bars (Chromag Cutlass) to round out the build


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

Do you by any chance know the weight difference between an slx crank and the stock FSA?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Nrs1Rider said:


> Do you by any chance know the weight difference between an slx crank and the stock FSA?


I've been wondering the same thing. Considering a crank upgrade, and was wondering if it would even be worth it.


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## Nrs1Rider (Jan 29, 2005)

texasnavy05 said:


> I've been wondering the same thing. Considering a crank upgrade, and was wondering if it would even be worth it.


I own an SLX crank thats not on any bike at the moment so cost is not an issue. I just don't have a scale to weigh the two cranksets with out rings.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Me personanlly I'm don't care as much about the weight as I do the reports of the FSA bb crapping out prematurely. Jenson still has the SLX crankset for 89.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I just weighed my SLX no rings at 599g


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## KristofferR (Jan 20, 2013)

Here's a pic of my stock 2013 Unit in 22". It looks less tall and gangly IRL.

Updates since my first rides (ice&snow) are the stock tires are back on and Ritchey WCS foam grips, plus some reflective tape in an attempt to comply with the law.

Still dialling the tire pressures, setup of handlebars, brake levers etc, stem flipped upwards now for a better stance when standing up and pedalling.









EDIT: Added two close-ups showing off the dropout design and the BB area with the mud-shelf. Since I buy online I find pics like these helpful in my decisions.


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

bjmurray said:


> My buddy has a 2011 with the P2, love the bike but new right away i wanted the added stiffness and weight benefit of the Carbon fork. really helps get the big hoops off the ground with the type of riding i do around here. Since the pics, I have added a shorter stem and some carbon bars (Chromag Cutlass) to round out the build


You have a pic of the bike with the new handlebar?
Been lookin' at new handlebars and wondering how a carbon riser bar would look like?


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## Lammila (Jul 21, 2011)

I have been riding my Unit for few months and it's just great bike. You can do almost any kind of riding with it.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Some impressive, technical riding dude. I love my '13 Unit too.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I can't wait until my hand heels from surgery so I can go ride mine! Until then I'm slowly swapping certain parts off.


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## WineDine29er (Apr 9, 2013)

KristofferR said:


> Here's a pic of my stock 2013 Unit in 22". It looks less tall and gangly IRL.
> 
> Updates since my first rides (ice&snow) are the stock tires are back on and Ritchey WCS foam grips, plus some reflective tape in an attempt to comply with the law.
> 
> ...


Sweet bike...What are your dimensions? There is a 22 inch for sale locally identical to yours the guy wants 750$ is that a decent price? Thanks


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Well I set mine up tubeless on the standard WTB SpeedDisc wheels tonight. No problems, just went ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape and Stan's fluid. 

Main reason was to soften the ride a little, I've swapped the rubber to Maxxis Ardent 2.4's with a bit more volume and I'll experiment with pressures but thinking I'll start at about 22psi up front and 25 rear. Bead seated really easily - I couldn't get it happening with the ikons at all, Ardents seated first time on both wheels. 

So far so good, they are holding pressure well and a quick ride around the streets at these pressures I was surprised how well the Ardents roll. Hoping to hit the trails tomorrow after work. 

Plenty of clearance around the frame and fork running 2.4's.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Well just an update, all held up really well with the new tubeless setup, no problems on the trail and I don't think any pressure was lost during the ride. 

I finished the ride feeling heaps better than usual - high volume and low pressure really helps take the buzz off the trail and dampen the blow and they roll really well, I'm real happy. Money well spent!


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

texasnavy05 said:


> Finally got around to putting up some pics.
> 
> Final weight was 22lbs 4 oz with another 300 grams to be shaved when my post/stem/bar get here. So, mid 21lb range. Not bad at all!!
> 
> ...


Here is some more weight weenie info if anybody is interested.

I replaced the bb7 with a new set of xt's. the bb7 front caliper/hose/lever without mounting hardware was 318 grams. The rear also without mounting hardware was 357 grams. The xt were 294, and 310 respectively. So, not much weight saved there, but performance is night and day for me.

Finally got my thomson bar, stem, and post on it, and the final build with pedals weighs 21 pounds 3 oz. I'm really happy with the bike. It's stout yet light enough, and very comfortable.


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## crackerbat (Oct 8, 2012)

such a great bike.
With a bit of finaggaling, I got the ultegra levers to work great with the mtn bb7s. Urban destroyer.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

texasnavy05 said:


> Here is some more weight weenie info if anybody is interested.
> 
> I replaced the bb7 with a new set of xt's. the bb7 front caliper/hose/lever without mounting hardware was 318 grams. The rear also without mounting hardware was 357 grams. The xt were 294, and 310 respectively. So, not much weight saved there, but performance is night and day for me.
> 
> Finally got my thomson bar, stem, and post on it, and the final build with pedals weighs 21 pounds 3 oz. I'm really happy with the bike. It's stout yet light enough, and very comfortable.


Thanks for posting all the weights - it's been a great reference! XT's next for me too I think - just can't warm to the BB7's. They are my first cable brakes - and they're just not a patch on good hydros.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

gilly_mtb said:


> Thanks for posting all the weights - it's been a great reference! XT's next for me too I think - just can't warm to the BB7's. They are my first cable brakes - and they're just not a patch on good hydros.


I'm surprised to hear you say that. I have M785 XT hydros on my VP-Free and they are excellent, pull you up real quick. I've been pleasantly surprised at just how well the BB7's work, even with much smaller rotors. However, they do require a bit of adjustment due to cable stretch, unlike the XT's which are set and forget.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

The BB7's work ok, but I wouldn't call them great brakes. I'm forever adjusting them and the howl when wet is annoying. 

My other bike runs Avid Elixr CR's and the difference is nigh and day. I've also ridden a bike with XTR's and they felt similar to my Exlir CR's, so I'm hoping XT's will be similar too. 

I've also ridden some cheap hydros and I'd take the BB7's any day over those!


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

I liked the bb7's. I was coming off of some avid hydraulics, and I would pick the bb7's over the elixir's any day. But, these new shimano brakes are just plain awesome! 

Why doesn't avid do a bb9 for the racer/weight weenie types that like the mechanical system, but want a lighter weight?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

In her final form! 21 lbs 3 oz. with pedals.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Note you've got a setback post, wishing you'd gone the 20" now, instead of 19"? Love _my_ 20"...


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

m0ngy said:


> Note you've got a setback post, wishing you'd gone the 20" now, instead of 19"? Love _my_ 20"...


I've got a bad habit of bending saddle rails, so one of the ways that I combat this, is to use setback posts with the saddle mounted way forward on the rails. It seems to be working out pretty well so far.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

texasnavy05 said:


> In her final form! 21 lbs 3 oz. with pedals.
> 
> View attachment 800441


Nice! What headset did you end up using?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

The top half of the headset is the one that came on the bike, the bottom half is a cane creek 40 series (I think) to fit the taper of the steerer tube. The bike shop I bought the bike from ordered it and installed it so that's why I'm not exactly sure which model it is. It was about $30 or $40 for the bottom half if that helps.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Great, thanks!


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

If you want to run a tapered fork on the 2013 Unit, here's what you need:

Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly
Cane Creek 110.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly

I hear Chris King makes a similar bottom cup that allows you to run a tapered fork on a zero stack 1 1/8 headtube, but I couldn't figure out which model. Inset 7 maybe?

If you want to be 100% sure, call Cane Creek or King.

One thing to be aware of is that going this route (external bottom cup instead of a zero stack) will slacken the headtube angle. Random people on the internet seem to ballpark it at 1 degree, but I haven't seen anyone actually measure it.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

That's a big help - thanks. I want to upgrade the fork, not sure what to get just yet and at the same time I want to swap to a sealed bearing headset, for the bottom at least. 

Hope does a ZS44/30 which might do for a 1 1/8" fork. They also do a EC44/40. 

Looks like there's a few options out there which is great. The extra height of an EC would slacken things slightly but I doubt there's 1 degree in it? Thanks for the info.


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## _Alberto_ (Sep 8, 2012)

Awesome bikes I'm on the lookout now. I just missed the chance to pick up a barely used Unit for $300, now I'm obsessed with finding one. Nicely modded ones here.


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## KristofferR (Jan 20, 2013)

WineDine29er said:


> Sweet bike...What are your dimensions? There is a 22 inch for sale locally identical to yours the guy wants 750$ is that a decent price? Thanks


I'm 6'6" (197cm / 95cm inseam). It feels pretty spot on on my normal trails, though I could probably have gone a size down for tricky technical stuff.

Regarding price, can't say what's fair in th US since I'm in Europe. New ones retail at around €800 +shipping, that would be $1000-$1100. There seems to be no tendency of sales prices. Two lbs sources say there is not much in stock.


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Quick question about the sliding drop outs. There is a threaded pin (with 8mm nut) that protrudes from the drop out. The idea is that the pin keeps the slider from creeping forward if you have the wheel slid back.

Are these pins necessary if you have the slider set all the way forward? The weight weenie in me wants to remove them.

I can think of 2 far fetched reasons why I might want to keep them in:

1) prevent water from settling into the hole where the pins sit
2) maybe the sliders shouldn't rub directly against the frame

Thoughts?

I can ink


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Spillway said:


> View attachment 803220
> 
> 
> Quick question about the sliding drop outs. There is a threaded pin (with 8mm nut) that protrudes from the drop out. The idea is that the pin keeps the slider from creeping forward if you have the wheel slid back.
> ...


I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.


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## blackgriffen_1 (May 18, 2010)

texasnavy05 said:


> I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.


I would never take them out just because of my self-diagnosed bike OCD. 

That being said, Spillway you should feel free to take them out, the only future annoyance will be the collection of gunk in the tapped portion of the frame; easy enough to self-clean by threading the rod back in, but I'm always wary of small tapped holes in frames. . .


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

texasnavy05 said:


> I'm kind of ocd about my wheel being in the drop outs straight. So, I use the threaded pins to make sure that I am moving both sides of the dropouts back the exact same amount. But, if you are slamming the dropouts all the way forward I don't see why you would need them.


Thanks for the feedback. I cross posted on the frame-builders forum and consensus is that it's ok to remove the set screws. I'm going to put some silicone grease in the holes and do dance a little jig over small grams saved.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Spillway said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I cross posted on the frame-builders forum and consensus is that it's ok to remove the set screws. I'm going to put some silicone grease in the holes and do dance a little jig over small grams saved.


Hope that dancey-jig works miracles for ya, cause it'll be at the expense of driveline parts & performance.

The primary SS maintenance I do is chain lube & tension, which I check before every ride. (OCD 2) Paragon sliders, and Swingers make this easy.

Without the set screws you may find it more difficult for brake & wheel alignment, and proper chain tension will suffer.

(by phone)


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Flyin_W said:


> Hope that dancey-jig works miracles for ya, cause it'll be at the expense of driveline parts & performance.
> 
> The primary SS maintenance I do is chain lube & tension, which I check before every ride. (OCD 2) Paragon sliders, and Swingers make this easy.
> 
> ...


Grumpy often?

I strongly doubt I will have any brake or wheel alignment problems. The sliders are completely forward. So there is no way they are going anywhere. The set screws don't ensure chain tension in this scenario. No miracle needed. But, hey, if you want to sound contentious, feel free.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

I have plenty of miles on sliding drops and track ends without the annoying "set screws." As long as you get the wheel somewhat centered (I eyeball it using the tire and chainstays), you're good. There is enough slack that you can be off by a little bit and not cause too much, if any at all, wear on the drive train. At least I haven't noticed any abnormal wear. And if they do wear? So what? Just replace. It's not like they're uber expensive.

Spillway, you can get some of that Clearbra 3M film, or maybe even left over film from phone screen protectors and cover up the holes. Lighter than grease, I would imagine.


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Great suggestion. I was about to order some sort of plastic film to deal with cable rub on the frame anyways. Thanks for the idea.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Spillway, some people learn from other's mistakes, while most must learn for themselves. Clearly, your in the majority.

Did not intend to bruise the delicate inner weight-weenie.

(by phone)


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Had my Unit for a couple of months, pretty much stock other than tyres (winter on its way down here), shorter stem and bigger gear outback (too many big long hills in Welly). Keen to drop some weight, what would would yo do first?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Bart_74 said:


> Had my Unit for a couple of months, pretty much stock other than tyres (winter on its way down here), shorter stem and bigger gear outback (too many big long hills in Welly). Keen to drop some weight, what would would yo do first?


how much of a budget? my niner fork dropped a lot of weight, and so did my am. classic wheels, but those two together cost more than the whole bike did.


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Budget reasonably limited - so its a case of bang for your buck! Out of the forks/wheels which was the better upgrade? Both in terms of weight and performance?


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

Go with wheels. In fact, take the money you were planning on the next upgrade and put it into a better wheelset.


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Any recommendations? Heard good things about Stan's Crest?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

depending on your weight and riding style, there is likely a stans rim for you. I personally like the american classic wheels. But I've had hope pro 2/ stans flow wheels and they were really great.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm having a new wheelset built right now. Can't wait to take it for a ride when I get back to Hawaii from my Pennsylvania vacation.


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## KristofferR (Jan 20, 2013)

Todays useful info for beginners and others.  I realize this is everyday stuff to most readers but I spent a fair time googling before doing so why not share. 

ParkTool HCW-17 lockring spanner does the job on the 2013 Unit lockring. X-Tools budget chainwhip on the cog (no pic that is too basic).








Surly 21T cog installed. It has a nice wide base and a slight offset too to make it possible to fine tune the chainline. 








New KMC Z610 chain. Old chain was one link too short to suffice. Cut chain with the housebrand 'Xtreme Pinpusher III' from German mail order giant Rose. 'Missing Link' was included with chain. 








Switch the adjustable dropouts was easy. The dropout solution was one of my main plus points on the Kona . It works well good!


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## Keyaroxy (Jul 14, 2004)

*2013 Kona Unit and 120 Fork*

Anyone got a 120mm fork on one? Ride impressions? thanks


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## Lammila (Jul 21, 2011)

...


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## Keyaroxy (Jul 14, 2004)

I'm looking for a frame/fork and 120 is what i"m leaning towards. Thanks and well done video.


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

I have a 2012 and I think I would have preferred to have a Revy XX on there at 120 or 130mm, but there is the headtube/steerer issue. Instead I have a SID XX. At the time I was gonna get a Reba with Poploc but QBP had a sale on the SIDs and I'm glad I went that way.

As far as I'm concerned, I will be sticking with the XX damper for my SS needs; I just totally rely on that lockout and love how well it works and how damn slick my cockpit looks. Wonderful on demand pedal platform and the fact that the lockout has the adjustable threshold means you can lock it out in certain situations besides uphill mashing:
--If you're just hitting **** really hard at the moment and your fork is bottoming out.
--If you're doing jumps; eliminates bob during the run up and prevents bottom out on the landing, even though it usually goes almost full travel.
--Going over drop-offs; keeps your front up for anti-OTB but won't ever break your wrists.

I love how the three things on my bar are all hydraulic, and would totally go for symmetry with a Reverb if RS made one in 27.2.

I put the RH Xloc on the left under my XT lever, and it almost looks like one thing with just two clamps and two hoses. I tore the Xloc hose in a crash and realized that the spare hose they include with the fork is a little longer, and I no longer have any hose to hose contact. 

I'm really happy with the fork, its nice to know I have some of the best dampers possible so I can just ride fast with little sketch factor. Once I can afford to get new wheels (I'm totally getting my money's worth out of these stock wheels, lulz), I'm slapping 15QR lowers on, a Saint M820 caliper and the 203mm Saint RT99. Lets just say I like brakes.

Oh by the way. I'm running Hans Dampfs (Trailstar 2.35) front and rear, tubeless at around 26 psi and I love them too. I feel like my rear tire actually needs more traction than my front (uphill mashing) and these things are like glue.


Oh yeah and lastly, if you people are wondering what bottom bracket to buy...normally I would just get a mid range BB cause they're just bearings and how long they last can be hit or miss. However! The new Shimano Dura Ace BB, the SM-BB9000, has a smaller outer diameter which is actually the same as the BB shell on the Unit (39mm, IIRC). This is smaller than the standard Hollowtech BBs from Shimano or FSA which are like 44mm OD. 

It looks really slick in how it's all the same diameter. And of course it's a high quality bearing with good seals in there. Since Shimano supplies a plastic reducer bushing with it to go into the 16 spline BB tools, you'll never mar the BB while installing it either. 

Just FYI, Shimano BBs have a really tight fit with FSA cranks but they work fine.


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)

Hi, I want to upgrade my cranks for some X0 with a spider lees mrp chainring.
My question is, the cranks comes with BB? What BB is it? Gxp? Thanks!
Love the bike!
Upgrades:
Thomson seat post, stem and clamp.
Niner carbon bars.
Arch & hope wheel set.
Hope qr.
Egg bitters pedals.


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)

My unit...the cheapest bike I ever had and the more fun..weird...


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## highfructosecorn (Jun 23, 2013)

I've watched this thread for the longest time before getting and building up my own.. and then registering just to post a pic of it:


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## Mad Dingo (Feb 9, 2006)

I upgraded the BB to a Phil Wood square taper and White Industry ENO cranks. I tried installing a 44t chainring, but its rubs the frame. Am I doing something wrong or will it just not work? I guess I could get a smaller Chainring and a small rear cog.

Its a commuter bike on the prairies.


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## Scarsandtears (Sep 18, 2010)

highfructosecorn said:


> i've watched this thread for the longest time before getting and building up my own.. And then registering just to post a pic of it:


sweet!!


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## t_surfer (Jun 28, 2013)

*2014 Unit*

I hear the 2014 Unit will be same spec basically as 2013 but painted a matte colour. The colour will be a Dark Cyan logo on a matte Cyan colour...sort of a grey/blue. The new Unit will likely be around A$1299 (current one is A$1099).

Cheers,
t_surfer


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)

new drive train :thumbsup:


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Burra said:


> new drive train :thumbsup:


I've been considering getting an X9 crankset! Please how do you like it?


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)

Very nice, clean look, easy installation and feel stiffer than stock. Good buy.



worrptangl said:


> I've been considering getting an X9 crankset! Please how do you like it?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I decided to do a wheelset upgrade first. Although I did swap out the FSA cranks and BB to an SLX/XT combo with a Blackspire chainring.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Well I've just ordered a set of XT Brakes (M785) with new Ice-Tech rotors (RT86 - I stuck with 180 and 160mm Rotors). 

For those that have made the swap, can I use the standard Avid caliper mount adapters with the new brakes, or will I need to buy the Shimano adapters too? Thanks.


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## always_last (Jun 7, 2012)

Kanik said:


> Oh by the way. I'm running Hans Dampfs (Trailstar 2.35) front and rear, tubeless at around 26 psi and I love them too. I feel like my rear tire actually needs more traction than my front (uphill mashing) and these things are like glue.


I'm running the same tires and pressure on my '11 unit. The tires were a gift from my wife who bought them with no hint from me. In fact I normally run low knob tires like the RR and never thought I would like such an aggressive tire. After 6 rides I'm in love with those tires and don't want to ride anything else. They're like velcro on the trails and I don't notice any extra rolling resistance. They totally changed the Unit experience for me.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

gilly_mtb said:


> Well I've just ordered a set of XT Brakes (M785) with new Ice-Tech rotors (RT86 - I stuck with 180 and 160mm Rotors).
> 
> For those that have made the swap, can I use the standard Avid caliper mount adapters with the new brakes, or will I need to buy the Shimano adapters too? Thanks.


I just bought the shimano adapters when I got my brakes from Wiggle. I didn't want to run into any problems even I read plenty of people using them. Just don't use the CPS bolts and washers.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Thanks - I ended up just ordering the adapters today after hearing about some of the problems people have had sticking with the Avids.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

You'll be better off that way. I love my XTs the silver just complements the Unit so well IMHO.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I don't have calipers. Does anyone know what size seatpost clamp the Unit takes?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I got to take my Unit out for it's proper ride yesterday. I went up to Peacock Flats/Kealia Trail on the North Shore of Oahu. The opening climb is 2.5 miles with some 15 deg grades in there. I admit I walked most of it since it was fire roads. I had to save my energy for the next 7.3 miles of fast up and downs. After that we hit Kealia Trail which drops down through 1.5 miles of switchbacks to Dillingham Airfield. My buddy I was riding with was using an Intense SS2 and he flew down the gnarliest trail on the island. I proceeded to ride my Unit down. Well I did about half of it. It's basically a super rocky downhill style course on the side of a sheer cliff. 


We then went to Pupukea/Sunset Hills just past Waimea Bay. This was more singletrack, but was so fun. By then end of the day my legs gave out and I had to walk the last hill up and out the Jeep. Overall we did about 20 miles and 4500 vertical feet of climbing.




I really liked the rigid fork but I think for what I have here on the island I'm going to get a suspension fork. Excuse the cell pictures it was really bright and my iphone was having trouble.


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## Kanik (Sep 28, 2011)

Mad Dingo said:


> I upgraded the BB to a Phil Wood square taper and White Industry ENO cranks. I tried installing a 44t chainring, but its rubs the frame. Am I doing something wrong or will it just not work? I guess I could get a smaller Chainring and a small rear cog.
> 
> Its a commuter bike on the prairies.


You might have gotten a BB with too short and axle. If you're putting the chainring on the outside of the crank's spider and its still hitting, you need to get a BB with a longer axle.



Burra said:


> Hi, I want to upgrade my cranks for some X0 with a spider lees mrp chainring.
> My question is, the cranks comes with BB? What BB is it? Gxp? Thanks!
> Love the bike!
> Upgrades:
> ...


Yes, GXP but no, you must buy the BB separately.



always_last said:


> I'm running the same tires and pressure on my '11 unit. The tires were a gift from my wife who bought them with no hint from me. In fact I normally run low knob tires like the RR and never thought I would like such an aggressive tire. After 6 rides I'm in love with those tires and don't want to ride anything else. They're like velcro on the trails and I don't notice any extra rolling resistance. They totally changed the Unit experience for me.


Totally man, I've been loving mine the past few days. It rained a ton and and now dried off, and they are such glue on the dirt here. I can tell I'm taking corners faster than everyone cause my turns rip up the tacky dirt the most. I experienced that pure bliss moment when I had both wheels sliding under acceleration in a flat turn today, getting so sideways. I love it.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

My 2013 Kona Unit

All stock except for the following:

ODI Rogue Grips with orange clamps
XT brakes and rotors
XT bottom bracket
SLX Crankset
Custom Wheelset: WTB Frequency i23 rims, Paul hubs, Wheelsmith DB14 spokes, nipples, and 20t Eno freewheel.
Nobby Nic 2.35 SS front
Spec. Purgatory 2.3 rear
Straitline DeFacto pedal, Shimano XT and Time X Roc (just bought to try)

I have an X-Fusion Slide RL2 fork coming this week also.






Hoping to do an outside photo shoot this evening when the light is better.


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)




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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Looking to swap out the current FSA headset, any recommendations? Does the Unit use a standard 1 1/8?


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## James Q (Jul 15, 2013)

Some really nice Units here, I too am thinking off getting one within the next month or so. Information in this thread has been very helpfull!


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Hope to post mine here soon. Really like the ride.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Cane creek headsets. You can buy separate uppers and lower pieces and use tapered steer tubes.


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## Xavonseine (Nov 1, 2012)

For those who did not see it already, the raw/cyan 2014 Unit: KONA BIKES | 2014 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | UNIT :thumbsup:

It seems the geometry and sizes have changed :skep:

Size 15 17	19	21
1 Reach	393	416	438	461
2 Stack	584	594	603	613
3 HT Angle	70	70	70	70
4 HT Length	105	115	125	135
5 ST Angle	73	73	73	73
6 ST Length	381	432	483	533
7 CS Length	434	434	434	434
8 BB Drop	56	56	56	56
9 Wheelbase	1064	1090	1115	1142
10 Front Cter	636	662	687	713
11 Fork Lngth	470	470	470	470
12 Fork Offset	45	45	45	45
13 TT Length	572	597	622	648
14 Standover	760	787	814	842


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

*Here is mine. Love it!*


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## Burra (May 31, 2013)

Rode 4:45 min yesterday, this thing keeps getting better!....love it!


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Xavonseine said:


> For those who did not see it already, the raw/cyan 2014 Unit: KONA BIKES | 2014 BIKES | TRAIL 29" HT | UNIT :thumbsup:


Glad I got the '13, that thing is pug fugly compared to my raw steel steed.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

mine ^^^^^^^ comes in Thursday. gonna run it 100% stock till I break something on it. well i'll take the reflectors off and put my spd's on it. glad I went with the 2013 also.

rog


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I like it short of the blue "kona". It's still raw just the clear coat has a blue hue. Look at the additional pics they have close up. Actually looks nice. I'm still glad I got the '13 model for the orange.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Teetshorn said:


> View attachment 817112


Nice! What do you think of the fork swap?


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

The fork is much better. I rode the p2 a few rides and thought it was very unforgiving. Really enjoy the lighter front end and find if I ride around 25 to 28 psi in the front the ride is very smooth. I also run carbon riser wide bars that also help.
IMO, it's one of the best upgrades I have done.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Good to hear! I'm running 2.4 Ardents which have helped soften things up a little, but I'd like to get some carbon up front to see how that helps.

XT Brakes fitted today (wish I did that sooner), I think a new fork and carbon bars will be next.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I agree the P2 fork is brutal on certain trails. I went with some front squish for now but I'm looking to go with a 70mm stem and carbon bars eventually.


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## Ned (Jan 26, 2004)

2013 sizing question for those who own one... 

Frame size is measured center to top like every other Kona I've owned. Am I correct?

Thx!


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## veklox (Jul 8, 2007)

Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.


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## msedly (Sep 21, 2008)

Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

msedly said:


> Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.


That's what you get with factory builds. Only thing I can think of is to get someone to tension them up properly for you. A local guy to me does them for $10/wheel.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I didn't notice it on mine but I just got a custom set built and don't even want to look at the stock set.


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## msedly (Sep 21, 2008)

I've got a custom set of wheels on my geared bike so I guess I'm a little spoiled. I would like to get something a little more swanky soon. What would you guys recommend for a decent set? I've got hope pro 2 evo's laced to ex500's on my nomad. Not looking to go that high end, maybe in the $300 to $400 range.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

bike is brilliant right out of the box minus the reflectors and pedals. raced mine tonight for the 1st time. I most certainly wouldn't call the p2 fork harsh, I would call it very efficient. running low to mid 20's psi in stock ikon tires with tubes. no issues.

rog


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## thesilversurfer (Oct 25, 2011)

Picked mine up this week. Changed out the BB7's for Avid juicy 5's, carbon seat post, flipped the stem and got rid of the bash guard and reflectors. Very happy with the bike. 

Taking her up into the Rockies here in Canada tomorrow.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

veklox said:


> Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.


the 2013 19" has a 24" ett which is perfect imo. the 2014 has a 24.5. not perfect. for me at least. 5'11.5".

rog


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

msedly said:


> Got a few rides on my 2013 and I have a question for you guys about the wheels. Is it me or are they super flexy...? I have tried to setup the brake caliper in all different positions, but when I get out of the saddle and stomp the pedals the front rotor makes a ton of noise. It happens the worst when I have the bike leaning to the right and I'm stomping on the left pedal. I'm thinking about taking the wheels to the local shop and having them increase the spoke tension (as high as they are comfortable going) and seeing if that helps. I'd like to get a better wheelset, but need a short-term solution.


I may be too late with this, but your problem isn't caused by poor tension on the spokes. It's caused by flex through the quick release and/or flex in the fork. Try swapping the QR for one with a bit more bite, or just tighten yours some more. Greasing the moving parts on the QR helps.


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

Curious, how many of you kept the stock bar? Or switched to something with comparable sweep (12 degrees)? My current setup on my Redline has very minimal sweep and some rise, this bar feels like beachcruiser in my hands.

But I have read about the "natural" sweep hands want to attain, and as the shop put it, the thing has no trade-in value. I'm going to give it a shot, switching bars is simple enough.

Just curious on feedback.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

That was the first thing I did with mine. Added Syncros AM20 carbon risers with a ridgid carbon origon 8 fork.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

newmarketrog said:


> the 2013 19" has a 24" ett which is perfect imo. the 2014 has a 24.5. not perfect. for me at least. 5'11.5".
> 
> rog


Funny, I'm exactly the same height as you and I find the TT length of the 2013 20" absolutely spot on. It's only half an inch longer than the 19" (24.5"), not sure I'd even notice the difference, but I do like it. I would like a slightly shorter, 80mm stem, but the TT length is perfect. Yeah, it's longish, but I'm used to riding older style XC hardtails like a '97 Stumpy and a 2003 RM Hammer which felt much longer than this.

Obviously, the length is useful when getting out of the saddle when climbing. For descending, the long TT gives you plenty of space to move around, use body english, and keep your weight over the centre and back wheel. Really glad I got the 20", there's still a mile of seat post sticking out, would look even more extended on the 19".



iceboxsteve said:


> Curious, how many of you kept the stock bar? Or switched to something with comparable sweep (12 degrees)? Just curious on feedback.


I've kept my stock bars, they're great, can't see the need to change. Not sure what I'd change too...? Straight carbon bars? Waste of money, and I would feel a bit paranoid about locking it up outside the pub. Riser bars? It's not a DH bike, not even an AM bike, it's pure XC and stock bars are fine.

I never thought I'd say this since dispensing with them in the late 90's, and I know they're not fashionable anymore, but I wouldn't mind some shortish bar ends for out of the saddle efforts, would really come in handy, imo.


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## drjay9051 (Dec 6, 2006)

I just went this route:

Odi Flight Control Handlebar > Components > Handlebars and Stems > Handlebars | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

The rise is perfect and at 750 mm width it just feels better. I feel more in control.

Also slapped on some Ergon grips. Like butta.


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

That is almost my current SS is set up with (I have to watch that, this weekend my "current" ride will be the Unit!) 20mm rise and 9/4 sweep and wide.

I agree I don't need a ton of rise, I don't ride AM or DH, I'm XC through and through. Just curious what routes others too. I plan to ride stock and adjust to my personal feel.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

stock. 

rog


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I like the stock bars but swapped them out to try the Easton EC70 lo rise bars they are 685mm so a little shorter but not much


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Does anyone know what size seat post collar is?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

28,6 on the 12 model. Assume it will be no different on the 13


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Awesome thank you!


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

worrptangl said:


> Does anyone know what size seat post collar is?


Pretty sure its 30,0 for 2013 - should say on the inside of the collar.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Bart_74 said:


> Pretty sure its 30,0 for 2013 - should say on the inside of the collar.


It say 30 13B1. On Kona's site it says the FD is 28.6mm. So that's why I'm asking. I emailed Kona also but not sure how long that will take to get a reply.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I wish I had calipers.


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## drjay9051 (Dec 6, 2006)

Directly from2013 Kona Tech Book seat collar diameter on unit is 29.8.

Here is a link. Its on page 105 far right column.

Oddly size has been different year to year

NOT the same from 2012 to 2013 but I can see how you would make that assumption.

http://kona.hu/docs/Kona-Tech-Book-2013.pdf

Kona Tech dept confirmed via email !!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Thank you for that. You can see why I was confused. 

I'm considering a QR collar but still not sure as it is the last stock piece on my Unit. Looking at either the hope or chromag. I'm liking the looks of the chromag but can't find much on it in the way of reviews.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

so when's the new frame coming? I mean you replaced EVERYTHING else on the 1000.00, I mean 2500.00 heavy steel frame.

rog


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I had a lot of it already, but I had my other single speed stolen and I used the claim to get a new wheel set and a few other things.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

just messin with ya. lovin my 13' unit more and more!

rog


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

None taken just saying after my other baby was stolen I had to make this one mine. I love it. I now know why people say a new set of wheels can make a huge difference.


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

So... I'm stopping down at my LBS to order a Unit this week. The thought of a glorified adult bmx is going to be the best 33rd bday present to myself EVER. Hoping I can get a 2013... hate the 2014 colors. I'm 5'9" 200lbs... stocky build, I'm thinking a 17"?

curious what upgrades you would do right away for a couple extra hundred? I sume have the shop add a few upgrades as they build it


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

17" sounds right to me. I'm 5'10 and could fit both the 17" and 18". I'd definitely go with an upgraded wheelset. I feel the stock wheelset really holds the bike back. Everything else is sufficiently nice. 

You may want to consider a different gearing, depending on your terrain and ride style. I found the stock gearing to be steep and went with 32-19 instead. 32-20 might have been a better choice for me. 

I also upgraded the bars and seatpost to carbon. I felt like the carbon bars made a more noticeable difference since the steel fork does transmit a noticeable amount of chatter through the hands, as with any rigid steel fork. 

I love the ikons but lots of folks prefer wider tires for bump absorption. Myself, I like the ikon's balance between traction and rotationsl weight. 

Finally, I've come to really like the bb7's. they are reliable, perform well, and are low maintenance. If I had to upgrade, the xt hydros are the best value around. 

Cheers.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

bb7 are ruler. had my very expensive indy ti 29er single set up with bb7 for almost 9 years. flawless no maintenance brakes. done 3 races in 15 days in the 20 something days owning my 13' unit. still running completely stock. did take the bashguard off. the stock 32-18 gear is a good balance for flats/steeps. was gonna go 34-18 but will stay put for now. even after my carbon everything, mavic xmax 29er wheels (best wheels ever, still) lightweight indyfab setup, the unit stock everything works just as well, but better due to modern geometry. nothing like putting the wood to dudes on lightweight carbon blingy bikes on a heavy rigid cheap stock one speed 29er!

rog


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

New wheelset right away? not this fellah... I'm looking to drop a grand on the bike and a few hundred for some bling... can't drop over half the price of the bike right away for a brand new wheelset


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

All personal preference, but best upgrades for me have been grip swap to ODI Rogues, new pedals, 2.4 Ardents (tubeless) to soften things up a little, and now I've gone to XT Brakes with IceTech rotors. LOVE the bike!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

tragedybysyntax said:


> New wheelset right away? not this fellah... I'm looking to drop a grand on the bike and a few hundred for some bling... can't drop over half the price of the bike right away for a brand new wheelset


just leave it be. it's a thousand dollar bike with an ocean liner's anchor heavy frame. why turn it into an expensive bike with an absurdly heavy frame? want a bling bike? buy one complete. save lots o money/effort that way with a light frame attached to it.

rog


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

Good and evil grips will be for me... need to find some nice spd pedals for the shoes... 2.4 tires eh? I thought about going the tubeless route. Can you with stock unit rims?


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Yeah I just went the ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape and stans valves and fluid - works perfect!


----------



## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

Hey... i'm possibly going to add a front shock on it as its getting built up at the shop... and opinions on the FOX 32 F29?


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

Or... is there another 100mm shock that has a lockout that you guys like?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

m0ngy said:


> Funny, I'm exactly the same height as you and I find the TT length of the 2013 20" absolutely spot on. It's only half an inch longer than the 19" (24.5"), not sure I'd even notice the difference, but I do like it. I would like a slightly shorter, 80mm stem, but the TT length is perfect. Yeah, it's longish, but I'm used to riding older style XC hardtails like a '97 Stumpy and a 2003 RM Hammer which felt much longer than this.
> 
> Obviously, the length is useful when getting out of the saddle when climbing. For descending, the long TT gives you plenty of space to move around, use body english, and keep your weight over the centre and back wheel. Really glad I got the 20", there's still a mile of seat post sticking out, would look even more extended on the 19".
> 
> ...


ergon has that grip and bar end as a combo set and I'm interested as well.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

tragedybysyntax said:


> Or... is there another 100mm shock that has a lockout that you guys like?


I'm using an X-Fusion Slide RL2. I like it so far.


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

I went and rode a (too big) 20" unit last night because it was all they had at the shop. The guy that owned the shop said the Unit is not a bike to run with suspension.. said there are other bikes that are SS to run a shock with. And he said he would rock a 80mm ... so that kind of threw me off. I think i'm going to miss a>shocks and now i'm second guessing the thought of missing gears. Darnit...


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

Really?

I was on a 19" D440 and felt a 20" would be nice, felt small at first but that was mainly fit issues (handlebars mainly). Now it feels great. I have a 100mm Reba on it and no one told me to not. Most guys I've met and talked to about their Units had forks. And I trust my LBS.

The D440 was rigid and while I miss that I am thankful for the fork. As far as missing gears... I haven't missed those in years.

To each his own though, just my 2 cents.

If you have the cash and the right fit the stock Unit would be a stellar intro to SS. If you're afraid just make sure your other (geared/suspension) bike is running?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

Cant speak for the fork (still find the P2 fork brilliant), but as for gears, you can always buy other dropouts or an internal geared hub.

Add the costs of an IGH to the bike costs, and it is still a great bike at a reasonable price

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

tragedybysyntax said:


> I went and rode a (too big) 20" unit last night because it was all they had at the shop. The guy that owned the shop said the Unit is not a bike to run with suspension.. said there are other bikes that are SS to run a shock with. And he said he would rock a 80mm ... so that kind of threw me off. I think i'm going to miss a>shocks and now i'm second guessing the thought of missing gears. Darnit...


i'm a shop guy and pretty darn opinionated, just the way i am. the units geo is so dialed that i'd hate to see it changed with a sussy fork. if it's the bumping, jarring, and harshness that yer turned off by, well, that's what you got knees and elbows for. the most dialed and sensitive suspension system ever known to man.

gears? well with a ss yer always in the right gear. the 32-18 that comes on the unit seems just about perfect. buy one, throw a leg over it, push on the pedals, yank on the bars, grit yer teeth, growl, and smile off into the sunset.

and the bike is wicked CHEAP MONEY!!!

rog


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

After riding my Unit with both a 100mm suspension fork and the P2 I can say that for the trails that I ride the most I'm glad to have the suspension but its nice to have both options.


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## kohlboto (Jun 10, 2007)

Sorry if this is a bit OT or in the wrong spot...but This thread inspired me to purchase a 2013 Unit and I have been loving it. The only catch is I went with a 19 when I should have bought a 20. Is there anyone who has a 20 and needs a 19 instead? I'd be up for a swap if that is the case...
Cheers
Jay


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

kohlboto said:


> Sorry if this is a bit OT or in the wrong spot...but This thread inspired me to purchase a 2013 Unit and I have been loving it. The only catch is I went with a 19 when I should have bought a 20. Is there anyone who has a 20 and needs a 19 instead? I'd be up for a swap if that is the case...
> Cheers
> Jay


Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...

I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Cif said:


> Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...
> 
> I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4


I did exactly that, smaller frame, longer stem and set back seat-post.


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## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Hey guys, I'm excited to say I'll be taking a '13 unit for a spin at a local shop tomorrow. They only have an 18" and a 19" in the shop and the manager there told me that i should fit a 19" but a 20" would be pushing it (too big). I'm 6'0" and 220. I have my fingers crossed the 19" will be a good fit. Thing is, I haven't owned a bike for ... a long time. I'm not sure I would be able to tell if i need bigger. Any pro tips?


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## kohlboto (Jun 10, 2007)

Cif said:


> Buy a seatpost with more setback and a slighty longer stem...
> 
> I wanted a 18 or 19. There was very little difference in geo, so I bought a 19, mounted a post without setback and a 10mm shorter stem. Fits perfectly now
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4


Yeah, I know I can go that route but I would prefer to move up a size.
Bikeman has a 20" frameset that I can buy then sell my 19"...


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Here's mine, size 18" stock + WTB Saddle, Thomson Setback, Easton 40mm Riser Bar, ODI grips, Wellgo MG-1 pedals. 90mm 6° Kona stem. Maybe I'd be better off on the 19? Im 5'10, 32" inseam.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

if you have to open up the cockpit that much, go up a frame size. imo.

rog


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm 5'11" with just shy of a 33" inseam and I ended up with the 19". I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.


----------



## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

worrptangl said:


> I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.


Post a pic of your setup? Im still dialing the stem/bars, and may end up with an 80mm stem 0 rise, and/or 20-30mm riser bar.

I found with the stock flat bar and stem I was too hunched over.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I agree with the stem. I bought a 60mm to try out. I think I'll grab a 70mm soon but I'm liking it. I have since swapped the bars for Easton EC70 carbon lo-rise bars. The for is now a X-Fusion Slide RL2.

I need to get pictures.

I personally didn't like the 90mm stem as I felt it was harder to loft the front wheel. In this regard I like the 60mm but it can be a little twitchy at times. With the stock bars, being 28", the 60mm was very nice indeed. Not so twitchy. I have my stem lowered and flipped also.


----------



## kohlboto (Jun 10, 2007)

worrptangl said:


> I'm 5'11" with just shy of a 33" inseam and I ended up with the 19". I always rode an 18" but sized up upon the recommendation from my LBS and it is wonderful.


yup, I should have sized up...anyone want to buy a practically new 19"?


----------



## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

The Unit looks like an awesome fun bike, I'm currently considering one for my winter SS, I preferred the 2013 models to the new 2014's in terms of colour etc but I know that doesn't really matter so much.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

Here is my Unit, from Spain


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

Near to one month with the bike today.... This is my first SS, and now thinking to convert my other 29er to SS... :thumbsup:


----------



## wheelgunz (Oct 18, 2009)

So after 3 seasons of being away from SS'ing and regretting selling my monocog. I picked up a 13 Kona Frameset from bikeman. STOKED


----------



## thesilversurfer (Oct 25, 2011)

In answer to a few comments on here about size. I normally ride a 19" mountain bike and ended up going with the 20" on the Unit. Fits a lot better and feels more comfortable. Less cluttered and I can moved around the bike more when climbing. It's friggin awesome.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Flatlyne said:


> Hey guys, I'm excited to say I'll be taking a '13 unit for a spin at a local shop tomorrow. They only have an 18" and a 19" in the shop and the manager there told me that i should fit a 19" but a 20" would be pushing it (too big). I'm 6'0" and 220. I have my fingers crossed the 19" will be a good fit. Thing is, I haven't owned a bike for ... a long time. I'm not sure I would be able to tell if i need bigger. Any pro tips?


Ended up going with the 19" as suggested by the shop. Glad i did, seems to fit perfect.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Good call on the 19. Enjoy! Such a sweet handling bike. Still amazed. Rog


----------



## escocia (Nov 14, 2010)

The Gen said:


> Here is my Unit, from Spain


El Gen, very nice bike. Once you start SS you can't stop and you became addicted.
You can forget now you "old" and "boring" geared bike.


----------



## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Decided the 18" Unit is too small so Im looking to sell/trade it for a 19" -- msg me if interested. In Boulder, Colorado but willing to ship.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

escocia said:


> El Gen, very nice bike. Once you start SS you can't stop and you became addicted.
> You can forget now you "old" and "boring" geared bike.


You're right.... this is totally addictive!!!....

Hope we can ride together.... we need to organize something in Madrid soon.... :thumbsup:

A question for those who has removed the bash... are u using the original bolts?


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

nope. I have always used derailleur hanger bolts for ss chainring bolts. stronger than alloy bolts and just the right size.

rog


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Does anyone know if a 30.0mm seat post clamp will fit right? I read a few pages back its 29.8mm ... But I'm a noob. Here's the clamp

Universal Cycles -- Salsa Lip Lock Seatpost Clamp - Orange

Thanks


----------



## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

^ Yes, I use a Salsa 30.0 mm

(tapa)


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Yes it's 30mm I emailed kona and a link was posted to the tech book and it is 29.8 but a 30mm flip loc works wonderfully.


----------



## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Hey,

lurker and a "newbie" to the whole MTB thing. Really like the look of 2013 Unit, and I've been playing with the idea of getting one as a short distance commuter/occasional trail hitting/overall fun type of bike. A bit curious though on the raw finish -- is it holding up well even in wetter climates?

Living in the north of Sweden, I thought I'd use it regardless of weather, rain/snow/sunshine. 

Any thoughts? Should I look elsewhere or am I just OD'ing on the worrying pill?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## octavius (Sep 26, 2008)

jocke
mine is holding up fine in sub aquatic scotland. 
stop worrying, go - buy one today!


----------



## wheelgunz (Oct 18, 2009)

Question for those swapped out for another rigid fork: I'm looking to save some weight with a rigid carbon, what is everone running? Im looking for a tapered fork, seems niner would be a good fit. Does the increased A-C and stack height of lower external cup for tapered forks effect handling? We're talking +/-15mm total...


----------



## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

octavius said:


> mine is holding up fine in sub aquatic scotland.
> stop worrying, go - buy one today!


Ha! Thanks for the help, ocatvius. Guess I'll be on the lookout for one then.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

It's got what i think is a clear powdercoat on top. So it's not actually raw.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Just got back from a ride and something is squeaking this high pitch squeak. Can't reproduce it unless I'm on the bike... Any ideas? I mean it must be one of the hubs right? Not like there's a lotta whirly gigs on the bike.

Oh, thanks flyin and worrp for the advice about the post clamp. Ordered it this morning.


----------



## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Make sure the sliding drop outs are nice and tight and greased (between frame and dropout), check chainring bolts? Good luck!


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Bart_74 said:


> Make sure the sliding drop outs are nice and tight and greased (between frame and dropout), check chainring bolts? Good luck!


All checked and looks good Bart, thanks. It's squeaking when I'm coasting... I'll figure it out or die trying!


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Flatlyne said:


> All checked and looks good Bart, thanks. It's squeaking when I'm coasting... I'll figure it out or die trying!


spray a lil lube on and around rear hub where it spins closest to the dropout on non drive size. triflow works great.

spray front hub too.

rog


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

newmarketrog said:


> spray a lil lube on and around rear hub where it spins closest to the dropout on non drive size. triflow works great.
> 
> spray front hub too.
> 
> rog


I happen to have a bottle of tri flow. I'll do that first thing when i get home. Thank you sir.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

you're most welcome. hope it works. just got back from a sweet ride on my beloved unit. checked out a new to me trail system about 5 miles from the house. spun the road there. the 32-18 stock gear goes plenty quick on the road and motors in the woods the new trails are great and offer up about an hour of riding done in a nice loop. 

still in awe of the unit's handling characteristics. bike rides lighter than it is. it would be scary if lightened up a bit.

rog


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Worked like a charm rog, thanks a million


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Flatlyne said:


> Worked like a charm rog, thanks a million


oh good to hear! love the simple easy solutions.

rog


----------



## Kawigreen99 (Oct 9, 2011)

Anyone running a 100mm fork? Thinking about putting a Tower Pro on mine but don't know if the 510mm A-C height will slow things down


----------



## Ned (Jan 26, 2004)

veklox said:


> Why's the geometry of the 2014 unit bad compared to the 2013 modell. Can't see big differences.


Fewer sizes to choose from so some compromise is forced upon some.

I've been riding my '14 for a few weeks now and no complaints. But this isn't a '14 thread so I'll leave it at that.


----------



## leg (Jul 4, 2013)

greetings from germany and a loved Kona Unit :thumbsup:



















the 1st is digital, die 2nd is from scanned slide film.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

Kawigreen99 said:


> Anyone running a 100mm fork? Thinking about putting a Tower Pro on mine but don't know if the 510mm A-C height will slow things down


I'm on the same page than you... I think I'll try this by next week...

I,ve same fork...


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm running a 100mm X-Fusion slide RL2 and I have really enjoyed it.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

Can you please post pictures of it?. 

Does your fork have tapered tube?. Does Kona headset need anything additional or can we swap the fork and ride?

Thanks!!!


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

The Gen said:


> Can you please post pictures of it?.
> 
> Does your fork have tapered tube?. Does Kona headset need anything additional or can we swap the fork and ride?
> 
> Thanks!!!


Sure thing just have to upload the pics off my phone.

It's a 1 1/8" but I swapped the headset to a Cane Creek 40 series. You would need to swap the crown race from the stock fork.

For a tapered tube you would need to buy the correct headset lowers.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have swapped some more parts off since these were taken.


----------



## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Are you using a 15mm axle or standard qr with your Slide fork? Also, what size frame is that, how tall are you?


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

It's a QR on a 19" frame. I'm 5'11" with a 33" inseam. Disclaimer on the picture is the seat was lowered so it would lay down in the van.


----------



## brianb (Apr 25, 2004)

2010 vs 2013. Anyone with opinions on the difference in the ride?
I have a L 2010 Unit frame that I built up w/ my own parts.
I have ridden it with a WB magic 100mm, rigid Kona P2, and currently Fusion Slide (qr), always ss. All great, I love my bike. 
Just wondering.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

worrptangl said:


> Sure thing just have to upload the pics off my phone.
> 
> It's a 1 1/8" but I swapped the headset to a Cane Creek 40 series. You would need to swap the crown race from the stock fork.
> 
> For a tapered tube you would need to buy the correct headset lowers.


Thank you very much for your answer.... It is cristal clear ;-).

My Tower Fork was cut to 17.5mm, so I think that replacing only the lower headset will not be enough and I'll need to change the full headset, as stock FSA top cup is too large....

I like Unit look with suspension fork......


----------



## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

Hi.

I have a question to which I did not find a definite answer: what is the rear tire clearance of 2013 Kona Unit? With examples, if possible as I am not very familiar with 29ers (only with track/road bikes, and of late fat bikes).

Thanks in advance!


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm using a 2.3 Specialized Purgatory on the rear right now. It has good clearance almost slammed forward in the sliders.


----------



## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/kona-unit-max-tire-size-833006.html


----------



## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

Anyone else do this to their chain ring?


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Nope I swapped mine to Blackspire mono veloce chainrings.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

iceboxsteve said:


> View attachment 834866
> 
> 
> Anyone else do this to their chain ring?


nope. time for a surly. the last chainring you'll ever have to buy.

rog


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Please disregard this post.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Which cog do i need guys? 
This:
Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes (Casette cog)

or this: 
Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes (Fixed cog)

cheers.
Tyler


----------



## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Cassette style is what you need.


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

worrptangl said:


> Crap! I'm still wanting to know about converting the stock wheelset to tubeless. Do you need Stan's 29er All Mountain or XC. I believe it would be the All Mountain.


I am running the 2011, i managed tubeless even with furious fred but it was a biyatch to set-up with 3 layers of roval rim tape. What helps it to turn the tyres inside out and/or inflate them on the rim with tubes so they naturally try and hug the rim, and everything spotlessly clean. when i tired to remount after 2 years it was impossible and picked up some mavic wheels.

the new 2014 unit comes with tubeless compatible rims


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

that guy again said:


> Um... no. Even if you can find a nice 29er fork now with a straight steerer, good luck finding one in a few years. The world has moved on.


what? you can still find quill stems decades on... besides, this bike is steel, and as such flexes when you push it: I do not see the point of an overly stiff head tube when I bought a rigid steel bike for the compliance, and when railing it I can feel the frame and fork twitch (and me smile!). every time else the bike goes exactly where you point it to the point of being able to choose which stone you are going to flick off the side of your tyre, so not really seeing the point. Having said that, the flexibility in choice of fork is good, and if your other bike is a full sus carbon with taper steerer like mine is, then being able to swap forks is a bonus???


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

BIGABIGD said:


> Anyone know what the Unit weighs? And has anyone put a carbon fork on one?


I have not put a carbon fork on, but have swapped the wheels out for mavic crossmax and the crank for XO and it feels as light as my carbon stumpie (very sub 10kg)


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

cborrman said:


> I am running the 2011, i managed tubeless even with furious fred but it was a biyatch to set-up with 3 layers of roval rim tape. What helps it to turn the tyres inside out and/or inflate them on the rim with tubes so they naturally try and hug the rim, and everything spotlessly clean. when i tired to remount after 2 years it was impossible and picked up some mavic wheels.
> 
> the new 2014 unit comes with tubeless compatible rims


I converted them and then had a custom wheel set built using Frequency i23 rims laced to Paul hubs.


----------



## leg (Jul 4, 2013)

kyttyra said:


> Hi.
> 
> I have a question to which I did not find a definite answer: what is the rear tire clearance of 2013 Kona Unit? With examples, if possible as I am not very familiar with 29ers (only with track/road bikes, and of late fat bikes).
> 
> Thanks in advance!


running 2,4 maxxis ardent front and back - tubeless on crest rims. width is no problem. diameter could become a problem, when the sliding back is in full front position. the ardent gets extremly close to the seat tube!


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

gilly_mtb said:


> Cassette style is what you need.


Hey guys, I spoke to the Kona tech about adding a Surly cog and got the following response;

"Our hub has a special short freehub body that lets you swap in a range of traditional cogs. That just might be a bit too wide.

I'd ask them if they've ever seen one on a Unit.

Happy Trails!"

I thought I'd ask here if anyone is running a surly cog before I contact Surly. 
This is the cog here: 
Drivetrain | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes

Cheers guys,
Tyler


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

love how the stock 32-18 ratio fits the sliders nice and forward. any other ratios out there get it even more forward? is 32-19 too tight?

rog


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I'm running 32/22 and kits almost slammed. 32/20 was too far back but 34/20 was slammed forward. That was using a KMC Z610 chain with Master link and no half links.


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Literally just need a $2 part to finish my build but could not wait to post.

Everyone here already knows this, but the Kona Unit is for real! The geometry is perfectly dialed for my riding (rolling hills and rooty trails on the East Coast). Not twitchy, not slow, not floppy. The most intuitive handling on any 29er I've been on.

A few quick thoughts about upgrades:

-Stock wheels were the worst. Rear hubs did not spin worth a damn. Maybe I got a bum component. Luckily, I had some alternative wheelsets just waiting.

-I really liked the stock cockpit components. Really solid and good performance all around. However, I loved the bike much more after putting on carbon bars and ESI chunky grips. It took the sting off. Carbon seatpost also helped but the carbon bars were a much better upgrade.

-P2 was fine. However, the Niner carbon fork plus tubeless makes it feel like I'm running a short suspension fork. So light, I feel like I'm cheating. Really amazing.

The P2 and other stock Kona cockpit parts are getting reassigned to a 29er commuter. They will get lots of miles.

Now I just need to slap on something to protect against cable rub on the headtube.


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

newmarketrog said:


> love how the stock 32-18 ratio fits the sliders nice and forward. any other ratios out there get it even more forward? is 32-19 too tight?
> 
> rog


I run 32x19 with the sliders slammed forward. No problems. SRAM 9-speed powerlink chain; no half-links of anything. Just have to put the chain on by turning the cranks.


----------



## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

32-22 is close too. 32-20 makes the chainstay length too long IMHO


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Is anyone running a Surly cog? The Kona tech doesn't know if it will fit.


----------



## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

I was, with no issues. Just switched to lunar cogs and have been very happy.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Teetshorn said:


> I was, with no issues. Just switched to lunar cogs and have been very happy.


Sweet man, thanks very much. Reps


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Flatlyne said:


> Is anyone running a Surly cog? The Kona tech doesn't know if it will fit.


best cogs/rings ever! it'll fit fer sure. i'll be getting an 18t surly once I wear out the stock one.

kona unit 13' best handling bike in the universe for reelz yo!

rog


----------



## peridigm (Sep 15, 2013)

I picked up a barely used '13 unit today. My first 29er and my first single speed. I can't wait to ride it tomorrow. Feels real good and lighter than I expected.


----------



## mramon (Sep 20, 2013)

Hi @leg,
what's stem and hadlebar you have in your kona? 
Thanks


----------



## baaya (Mar 25, 2011)




----------



## drjay9051 (Dec 6, 2006)

I am running a Surly 20 with no problems !!


----------



## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*2014 Unit 19" Stock first trip into the woods*


----------



## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

Wow! Unit 2014 looks great!


----------



## kdonks (May 27, 2005)

I recently built up a 2013 kona unit. This bike rides nice. I wish I could give a better handling description but the bike just seems to disappear under me. The handling is very neutral, not too twitchey but not slow turning either. The unit was a lot of fun to ride, very easy to push the bike when you needed to. The rigid fork is a bit rough but that is just the southwest desert terrain. 

I had a big unit and that bike was fast and light it you had to stay on top of it to stay in control. It was always reminding you that you turned a little to far with that course correction. The twitcheyness wasn't bad, just always there. 

Pics to come.


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I have been using these fatter Gusset double six ones no probs:

Gusset Double Six Single Speed Sprocket | Chain Reaction Cycles


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

32-19 fits great, right at shortest chainlength, that was with kmc 9SL chain anyway


----------



## drjay9051 (Dec 6, 2006)

kdonks said:


> I recently built up a 2013 kona unit. This bike rides nice. I wish I could give a better handling description but the bike just seems to disappear under me. The handling is very neutral, not too twitchey but not slow turning either. The unit was a lot of fun to ride, very easy to push the bike when you needed to. The rigid fork is a bit rough but that is just the southwest desert terrain.
> 
> I had a big unit and that bike was fast and light it you had to stay on top of it to stay in control. It was always reminding you that you turned a little to far with that course correction. The twitcheyness wasn't bad, just always there.
> 
> Pics to come.


Funny. I went in other direction. Have been on a 2013 Unit and am building a Big Unit !


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I just received the Thomson carbon flat bar. Wasn't too sure about them but after I installed them and rode them around a bit I really loved them with my new 70mm Aka stem. That mount is a Barfly 3.0 for my Garmin. I kept having the O-rings break and I didn't like the forward facing mounts. I saw that this one was designed to come back over the stem and for $15 I took a chance. No trail time yet but so far I like it.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

For all the people using a Niner carbon fork was the geometry/handling any different than the stock P2?


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

No noticeable diff in geometry. Very noticeable diff in performance due to increased stiffness, large drop in weight off the front end, and much improved vibration damping.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Spillway said:


> No noticeable diff in geometry. Very noticeable diff in performance due to increased stiffness, large drop in weight off the front end, and much improved vibration damping.


Those all sound like pluses to me. I wish they still made the straight steer in orange. :madman:

The cost of the tapered fork (RDO) and associated (required) hardware to accommodate for it seem somewhat prohibitive.


----------



## Dictatorsaurus (Sep 11, 2009)

I have to disagree. Rode the P2 for a while and now have the Niner fork.

P2 is way stiffer. Not that the Niner is flexy, its just that the P2 is well known to super stiff fork and can beat you up. To me a bit of flex in a rigid setup is considered a plus. Makes the ride a little more comfortable

The reduction in weight is noticeable.


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Cornering hard with the P2, I would often get rotor rub due to fork flex. This happens much less frequently with the niner carbon. On drops, the P2 flexed noticeably on landing. The niner has no such give.

I agree the P2 beats you up more. But, the way I perceive it, it is not due to the fork being stiffer. It is due to the fact that steel does not have the vibration absorption of carbon fiber. 

Either way, if I read your post correctly, we are agreeing that the niner is a better ride than the P2.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

the ritchey carbon fork is wicked light and matches the geo to the p2 in every way. IF I ever decide to get rid of my p2, then..........

no complaints with the p2. my elbows, wrists, and shoulders are the ultimate suspension

rog


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

What is the stock stem length on 2014 L size?


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

90mm on the 19" (2013)

rog


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a new wheelset. Could someone tell if this rear hub is appropriate for the 13' Unit? it's 135mm. I'm assuming that will fit? Does it matter if I get the bolt on or the QR version? Here's a link to the hub:

Universal Cycles -- DT Swiss 240s Single Speed Disc Hub

Cheers


----------



## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Has anybody weighed the crankset/bb? I've been meaning to pull mine, but I've been too lazy.


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Hi. I'm a roadie but I've been itching to get a mountain bike and when I saw the 2013 kona unit I thought it would be a great bike for me. I don't have the bike yet but should have it by next week and I can't wait to ride it. 

But I do have 1 question, is anyone running stock wheels and tires tubeless? The LBS expressed some concerns with going tubeless with the stock wheels and tires. 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

I went tubeless just with some gorilla tape and stans valves and sealant. Couldn't get the Ikons to seat, but I didn't try too hard before buying 2.4 ardents. These seated with no hassles at all and hold air perfectly. Never burped. All good!


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Sounds good. Thanks


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

gilly_mtb said:


> I went tubeless just with some gorilla tape and stans valves and sealant. Couldn't get the Ikons to seat, but I didn't try too hard before buying 2.4 ardents. These seated with no hassles at all and hold air perfectly. Never burped. All good!


Do you run the 2.4 ardents front and rear? No fit issues? What psi?


----------



## Berserker666 (May 24, 2012)

Flatlyne said:


> Those all sound like pluses to me. I wish they still made the straight steer in orange. :madman:
> 
> The cost of the tapered fork (RDO) and associated (required) hardware to accommodate for it seem somewhat prohibitive.


Flatlyne, I picked up the Niner fork in Orange from my LBS about a month ago. They had it in stock no less. Want me to see if they have another? It sure looks good with the 2013 natural frame with Orange decals.


----------



## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

jondc84 said:


> Do you run the 2.4 ardents front and rear? No fit issues? What psi?


Sorry for the late reply just saw this. Yes 2.4 Ardents front and rear with no issues. Depending on the trail conditions, I've run 18-22psi up front, and generally about 25psi in the rear. ON RAILS. Love it.


----------



## Flatlyne (Jul 18, 2011)

Berserker666 said:


> Flatlyne, I picked up the Niner fork in Orange from my LBS about a month ago. They had it in stock no less. Want me to see if they have another? It sure looks good with the 2013 natural frame with Orange decals.


PM sent Berserker


----------



## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

Just picked up the frame on sale and built it up 1x10 with parts I had:
18" frame
Fox 100 rlc
XT cranks with 32t RF narrow/wide
XT shadow plus rear der
Haven wheels
Formula Oro Bianco brakes

Love the geo on this, with shortish CS and slackish HT: has anyone measured this with 100mm fork? I'm guessing around 68.5? Feels very balanced and fun. Climbs great too!

EDIT: I know this is in the singlespeed forum, I do have a Raijin SS, and I may swap drive trains to run the Unit SS and the Raijin geared. We'll see!


----------



## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

So Cal RX said:


> View attachment 849671


S.T.T. with the Luge in the background?


----------



## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

cycljunkie said:


> S.T.T. with the Luge in the background?


You got it! One of my favorite rides up to Old Camp and down the Luge. Was a little wet on Friday, but had fun on the Unit.


----------



## cycljunkie (Feb 6, 2004)

My old hood! Used to live in R.S.M.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

so, I've had my Kona Unit for a couple weeks now and I love it, it is a blast on the trails. I noticed at the end of my ride today I was getting some break rub from the rear end. The front end has rubbed a few times and i have been able to resolve it no problem but I can't seem to fix it on the rear end. Any suggestions on what I need to do to resolve the break rub? I have stock wheels and stock Avid breaks.

Thanks for the help.


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## peridigm (Sep 15, 2013)

jondc84 said:


> so, I've had my Kona Unit for a couple weeks now and I love it, it is a blast on the trails. I noticed at the end of my ride today I was getting some break rub from the rear end. The front end has rubbed a few times and i have been able to resolve it no problem but I can't seem to fix it on the rear end. Any suggestions on what I need to do to resolve the break rub? I have stock wheels and stock Avid breaks.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Sorry to be blunt but the stock brakes are crap. I plan on swapping them out after the holidays. I had the same issue and finally put it on the stand to investigate why a few weeks ago. It turns out the calipers needed adjusted. The dial adjustments were all out of whack too. My rub was coming from the outside pad so I had to push the caliper to the right a tad to eliminate the rub when free wheeling. Been okay since.


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

A few updates to the unit, new seat post, stem and carbon flat bars. New tires and a set of lunar cogs that are awesome! This thing is a climbing beast!


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

peridigm said:


> Sorry to be blunt but the stock brakes are crap. I plan on swapping them out after the holidays. I had the same issue and finally put it on the stand to investigate why a few weeks ago. It turns out the calipers needed adjusted. The dial adjustments were all out of whack too. My rub was coming from the outside pad so I had to push the caliper to the right a tad to eliminate the rub when free wheeling. Been okay since.


The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Teetshorn said:


> A few updates to the unit, new seat post, stem and carbon flat bars. New tires and a set of lunar cogs that are awesome! This thing is a climbing beast!


That's a sharp looking Unit. And I agree this bike loves to climb. I'm new to mtn biking and I can't get over the climbs this thing will go up with just one gear. It's a fun bike to ride


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

jondc84 said:


> The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub


I've had half a dozen sets of different hydro disc brake systems, and I reckon the BB7's are pretty good, for what they are, they work fine.

Have you tried adjusting them? If your disc is warped, use a shifter to bend it back into the shape, it's quite easy to do.


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

jondc84 said:


> The stock breaks may suck but I'm stuck with them for the time being. I'll need to take a closer look to try and eliminate the rub


The bb7's don't "suck" if they are set up correctly. This resource helped me set my bb7's up nicely. At the very minimum you can check your pad spacing.

Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

texasnavy05 said:


> The bb7's don't "suck" if they are set up correctly. This resource helped me set my bb7's up nicely. At the very minimum you can check your pad spacing.
> 
> Avid BB7 mini resource - How to set up the Avid BB7


Thanks so much, this certainly should help out a lot. Now I just need for it to stop raining so I can get out and ride again


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## spatterer (Dec 2, 2010)

After 1 year and +2000 miles still love my 2013 Unit.

Now the left crankarm is loosening, even with loctite on it. Does someone has a good solution for this? (dump the FSA?)


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## peridigm (Sep 15, 2013)

My crank arm loosened and I put loctite on it. Been holding ever since. I covered more than 1-2 threads though.


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?


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## Kisherceg (Mar 5, 2007)

tragedybysyntax said:


> anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?


you should scroll only a few to post #413.


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## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

tragedybysyntax said:


> anyone have a reasonable solution to a 100mm shock fork and or converting to a 1x9 or 1x10?


Yes, mine is built up 1x10 with a 100mm fork. But I started with a frame and used mostly existing parts. Are you looking for an inexpensive route to get there? 'reasonable solution' is subjective, especially here on MTBR. LOL. For 1x10, I'm not sure what kind of rear hub comes stock, but assuming it's a regular 9/10 speed hub, you would need a rear derailleur (something like a Zee shadow plus FR can be found fairly cheap), rear shifter (Zee would work here too), rear cassette (SLX?), chain, and the Kona dropouts that have a derailleur hanger. I'd also recommend a narrow-wide chain ring (I have Race-Face). I haven't dropped a chain yet with this setup. So I think that's probably ~$270-$300 for the 1 x 10 conversion? It rides great like this too. For a fork, I happened to have a Fox F100 29 to put on, but you can find a cheaper fork like a Manitou Tower Pro. Price Point might still have them for $250.

Hope that helps. I'm really digging my Unit set up like this right now. Good luck!


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## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Fanatik Bikes - Troy Lee Designs Air Glove on X-mas special today for $20. The best part? They come in bright orange. Nothing's hipper than color coordinating with your Unit. You know you want to. 

Troy Lee Designs Air Glove - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa


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## kohlboto (Jun 10, 2007)

A bit of a Hail Mary here, but do any of you wheel upgraders have an extra i23 rim or front wheel (with the orange graphics for the 2013)? Looking to build a geared rear wheel with the same rim as the stock offering on the 2013. PM me if you have one you'd like to get rid of, s.v.p.


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## BlueViajero (Nov 21, 2012)

Hey guys, I have some photos of my unit, T18, I hope you like it!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

BlueViajero said:


> Hey guys, I have some photos of my unit, T18, I hope you like it!
> 
> Easy.....We hardly know each other. :blush::yikes: Ahhhh, that is a nice Unit though. :lol:


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## BlueViajero (Nov 21, 2012)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

What a way to trash your bike...


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## BlueViajero (Nov 21, 2012)

jajajajajaja, preguntale a CoastKid cuanto le duran las suyas, tal vez tu no sepas limpiar tu bicicleta despues de usarla... no es tan dificil si tu edad mental es superior a 12 o 14 años. Te dejo otra foto que veo que te gustan:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Saludos.


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Salt water is like acid. You didn't just spray the bike with it, you've partially submerged the poor thing, dipped it in acid. The bearings will be ruined, as would the brake lines. Give it a week or two and you'll see evidence of corrosion, not very smart.


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## superstar1 (Apr 19, 2013)

Good wash and a good lube session - no harm done. I just think the pics are a little kinky. There is clearly a sexual cycle fetish thing going on here.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Looking for a bit of setup advice here. So on a long I'm getting pins and needles in my hands from too much weight on them, I've flipped the stem, but I'm thinking that the cockpit is a little too cramped for me. I originally wanted a 20" but 19" was all that was available so I'm running an almost maxed standard seatpost at this frame size. Off road this hasn't been so much of an issue because I move around so much, but I'm now using the bike for longer rides which involve a long sealed road commute before hitting the dirt and this is when I notice the problem.

So.. would you guys next look at a setback seatpost or a longer stem? I know a larger frame is the real answer but it's just not an option where I am, the bike was hard enough to come by. 

Thoughts?


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## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

Sounds like a big drop in height from saddle to grips. An additional idea would be raising the front a bit with either a riser bar or moving headset spacers from above to below the stem (if that's an option). This plus the little added length (with either of your ideas) should help. How long is your current stem? I tend to like a steeper seat angle, so wouldn't want too much of a set back seatpost.


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## gilly_mtb (Feb 11, 2012)

Thanks for your input. 

I've just ordered a Thompson Elite Setback post which has just 16mm offset so I'll try this as the first step and then I think your idea of riser bars will be next if things don't improve much. The bike was bought complete stock. It's actually at a friends house at the moment so I can't measure the stem, but I know it had like +- 8 deg stem on it and I flipped it to be +8 and it was certainly more comfortable but I didn't like it as much when climbing, it felt totally different. I suppose that's why I'm hesitant to raise the front further.


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## Kapernicus (Jan 7, 2014)

kohlboto said:


> A bit of a Hail Mary here, but do any of you wheel upgraders have an extra i23 rim or front wheel (with the orange graphics for the 2013)? Looking to build a geared rear wheel with the same rim as the stock offering on the 2013. PM me if you have one you'd like to get rid of, s.v.p.


PM sent.


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?


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## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

Bart_74 said:


> Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?


Hmm, by your post and what you're saying, I'd lean slightly to the 80 between the 2. If you can find a 100mm fork, that would be my recommendation. I love my 2013 Unit with a 100mm fork. I actually have a Tower Pro 120 on my Raijin and it fits well on that frame, but I threw it on the Unit just to try and ended up putting the 100 back on. It wasn't bad, but the Unit feels more balanced at 100 IMO. I believe the Unit frame is slacker than the Raijin (given the same fork), so the Unit might be good with 80.

I think there are a few others who have/had the Unit setup with a 120, so hopefully they'll chime in also.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Pass on the suspension fork and put 2.4 Ardents frt/rear and run lower pressure. Ergon grips help everyone also. As for the gears...get a second bike. You can never have too many Airborne Goblin will give you a great gear'd frt suspension bike for close to the same cost as a nice fork.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

I just cant get into the geometry of this bike. 18" felt too small, 19" too big. so its on ebay 2013 Kona Unit 29er w Whisky Carbon Fork Large 19" Single Speed or Geared | eBay


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Selling a used Unit for $500 more than MSRP?....
Should be posted in best of Craig'slist WTF... :-$


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## phsycle (Apr 14, 2011)

thegoldrun said:


> I just cant get into the geometry of this bike. 18" felt too small, 19" too big. so its on ebay 2013 Kona Unit 29er w Whisky Carbon Fork Large 19" Single Speed or Geared | eBay


Pay the $2 and post a classified ad, ya cheapskate! Fixed that hyperlink for you.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

Flyin_W said:


> Selling a used Unit for $500 more than MSRP?....
> Should be posted in best of Craig'slist WTF... :-$


Well the build was over $2k, the fork alone cost more than the frame. But I understand your point.


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

phsycle said:


> Pay the $2 and post a classified ad, ya cheapskate! Fixed that hyperlink for you.


I tried but kept getting a server error!! So I gave up and just posted the eBay link. Sorry


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Sorry you didn't like the geo on the Unit. However how was the ride of that Whiskey fork? I have considered going to it from the steel fork but haven't. I went for the 2.4 Ardents and low pressure. What fatness of tire are you running in that fork? Would the 2.4's fit?


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## thegoldrun (Feb 27, 2007)

The Whisky fork is awesome. It makes the front super light and nimble. Id keep it for another project if I had another fork to sell with this bike. Right now the bike has 2.2s but Whisky says it will run a 2.4.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Hey thanks for that info. I've been checking out the weight difference and I'm thinking you are right on. I've never ridden a carbon fork so I have no idea what I'm missing.


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

Quick update on my Unit. I've recently gotten rid of all of my bikes other than the unit. So, for versatility, I swapped the niner carbon fork for a fox 100mm float FIT CTD. And, I have added an x9 type 2 10 speed derailler, a x9 shifter a sram cassette (1070 - 11-36) and a race face narrow wide 30T ring.

This isn't because I didn't love SS or rigid, but since I'm down to one bike I need a bike that I can enjoy on all of the trails that I ride.

With the added parts the weight comes in at 25# 3oz. Not light by any means, but this is also with pedals, cages, and 2 scoops of stans in each tire.


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## Moonshine (Aug 12, 2008)

^Good stuff, TN05!


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Bart_74 said:


> Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad? Secondly, read that the Unit is suspension corrected to run a 100mm fork, any issues/effects running a 120 on the frame? Lastly, is there a big difference between 80mm and 120mm? Of note I ride mainly singletrack, varying between intermediate and advanced level (xc/trail style). I have a FS 120mm 26' which I never really bottom out or feel I need more suspension - therefore do I really need 120 fork?


Thanks for your feedback; still considering a fork and come across a 100mm one, although this tapered - just want to to come I could use a tapered steerer? (obviously headset would need changing)


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## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

Yes, 2013 Unit is designed to run a tapered steerer, which is why it looks a little funny with the stock steel fork. If you're buying a new suspension fork, Id recommend it vs. the straight one.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Nice set-up. I have a stumpjumper evo which is a similar idea. I still use the unit on most trails by switching between a 19t and a 15t out back (both allow the sliders to be pretty much all the way forward). Have two sep chains as well.

Why did you get the thomson set-back out of interest? I have had too much weight over the front on a couple of occasions and wondered if a set-back was the way forward?


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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

I weigh about 275 pounds, and I've bent saddle rails in the past, so one way that I fight this is to get a setback post, and slide my saddle all the way forward. Since doing this I haven't bent any saddle rails.

When the bike was set up SS I did notice the front end being kinda heavy, but only when the sliders were towards the rear of the dropouts. When the sliders were in the middle or forward it seemed fine.



cborrman said:


> Nice set-up. I have a stumpjumper evo which is a similar idea. I still use the unit on most trails by switching between a 19t and a 15t out back (both allow the sliders to be pretty much all the way forward). Have two sep chains as well.
> 
> Why did you get the thomson set-back out of interest? I have had too much weight over the front on a couple of occasions and wondered if a set-back was the way forward?


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

spatterer said:


> After 1 year and +2000 miles still love my 2013 Unit.
> 
> Now the left crankarm is loosening, even with loctite on it. Does someone has a good solution for this? (dump the FSA?)


I've got over 5,000 miles on my 2011 UNIT. Keep on keeping on!


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Mine loosened a few times from new... Replaced. Slx has been on about 4 bikes now.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Has anyone lost the sliding dropout forward facing alignment screws?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

I got a 2014 unit in my left crank arm twice this fall but I was able to fix it by putting some semi permanent loctite and using a torque wrench. as I remember I tightened it down to 41 nm.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

cborrman said:


> Has anyone lost the sliding dropout forward facing alignment screws?


Yes, quite quickly. Took the remaining one to the hardware store and bought SS ones with wing nuts for lock rings. Fixed.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Flyin_W said:


> Yes, quite quickly. Took the remaining one to the hardware store and bought SS ones with wing nuts for lock rings. Fixed.


nice, I don't have a remaining one unfortunately; do you remember what they were? M3, M4?


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

I have a fully stock 2013 Unit and I am looking to get a front suspension fork and was wondering if this one will work on my bike? RockShox Recon Gold TK Solo Air - 29" - 1.5" 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles

Does anyone know if this will work with the stock wheels and steerer tube?

Thanks for the help


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

No, the link appears to only come with a 20mm thru axle. Believe the stock front hub is a standard 9mm q/r.


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Good thing i didn't buy that front fork then. Can anyone recommend a good 100 mm fork that will work with the stock set up on this bike that won't cost me an arm and a leg? Thanks


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## ChaosCelt (Feb 4, 2013)

Rockshox forks usually have variations of the same fork. For instance the SIDD and REBA both come in straight or tapered steerers and 9mm qr and 15mm thru so you may look into their site.


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## So Cal RX (Oct 1, 2005)

Manitou Tower Pro: Manitou Tower Pro 29er Fork | Manitou | Brand | www.PricePoint.com


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## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)




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## texasnavy05 (Sep 9, 2010)

^^ Nice bike, and nice picture!


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

The Gen said:


> View attachment 867954


Hmmm it looks strange to me but somehow really intetesting. How wide are the handlebars?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-V500 met Tapatalk


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## intellectualfish (Feb 8, 2014)

> I have a fully stock 2013 Unit and I am looking to get a front suspension fork and was wondering if this one will work on my bike? RockShox Recon Gold TK Solo Air - 29" - 1.5" 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles


Hey, I have a 2014 Unit that I recently purchased a 100 mm Rockshox 30 Gold TK fork for. I got it at my LBS for ~$350. It rides great and has higher-end features like lockout, rebound adjust, and the solo air cartridge at a price that won't bust your wallet. The 1 1/8" steerer version with 9mm QR for 29ers weighs ~4.03 lbs. (confirmed with scale), so it's comparable in weight to Rebas and Floats. The 100 mm is a good match for the geometry, but it will slacken your head angle a degree or two over the stock rigid fork. I like it, though. I'll try to post some pictures of my finished build to this thread over the weekend.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have a 100mm X-fusion Slide RL2 and I really like it. It slackens the HTA like previously said. I actually just put my P2 fork back on tonight and was surprised how much difference there was. For now going to keep it rigid. I really enjoy it. Although Salsa is going to be releasing their Cromoto Grande steel fork with 15mm TA by the end of March. So I might look into that. Not sure if I can justify dropping 550 on a Niner carbon fork. Although Competive cyclist is have a sale that takes $100 off it so it becomes $450 with the 15TA rdo version when you use code "loyal". We will see tax return should be here soon.


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## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

Cif said:


> Hmmm it looks strange to me but somehow really intetesting. How wide are the handlebars?
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-V500 met Tapatalk


Outside-outside: 44 cm
Reach: 75 mm
Drop: 130 mm


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

m0ngy said:


> I love my raw steel Unit, looks tough as. Had mine for about a month now (my first 29er) and it's quickly become my 'go to' bike. It's unfortunate I've spent many thousands on suspension and complicated frames when all I've ever really wanted was a full ridged 29er. People talk about 'point and shoot' in relation to really stiff suspension forks, but you haven't experienced true accuracy until you've gone full rigid. Climbs like a mofo too; haven't leapt out of my seat and attacked climbs like this since I was in my early 20's. With so much technology out there, I think people forget the raw thrill of the primitive, unadulterated XC experience. Haven't had this much fun or been so enthusiastic about riding for a very long time.


+1, went from an s-works stumpjumper fsr to aways riding this! I have a white 2011, added an XO downhill carbon crank and crossmax st wheels and got it even stiffer!


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## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

I know it's a 2013 thread, but come on guys, show some blue 2014 goods. We know they're out there.


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## intellectualfish (Feb 8, 2014)

I.V.A. said:


> I know it's a 2013 thread, but come on guys, show some blue 2014 goods. We know they're out there.


Here's my blue 2014:










Bike is stock except for these aftermarket upgrades:
- 2014 Rockshox 30 Gold TK 100 mm fork (Solo Air, Lockout, Rebound)
- 410 mm Thomson Elite Post
- Shimano Deore Hydraulic Brakes
- Shimano M520 Pedals
- Surly 21t Steel Cog
- SRAM PG951 Chain
- Conti Mountain King Tubeless 2.4" F and 2.2" R

With a 19" frame and this build it sits right at 28 lbs.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

cborrman said:


> 21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For each tooth added to the rear, the axle will move *forward* approximately 3mm. This only applies if there is sufficient adjustment available in the sliders. Tyre clearance shouldn't be an issue.

If you run out of forward adjustment, add a half link and this will give you an extra 1/4" (~6.25mm) of room.


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## intellectualfish (Feb 8, 2014)

cborrman said:


> 21t! Out of interest where does that make the rear end sit on the stays, near the back or the front? I like 19t because its far forward and I think I read a 20t sets the wheel back???? Could do with more than 19t for winter / all day epic
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine sits about dead-center. Once you go larger than 19, you start a whole two chain links back and work forward again. I honestly don't mind a slightly longer wheelbase for stability though. I've had no issues with technical maneuverability.

If you want to keep your drivetrain smaller, Raceface makes a 30t front ring that would allow you to play with smaller rear rings:
Race Face


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Thx. Smaller front is way fwd i suppose, had not thought..,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

What's the plural of unit  ?

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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Pano-unit

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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

You should take that pano photo from much closer


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## tragedybysyntax (May 6, 2009)

I'll post a pic tomorrow but I just picked up before winter a 2011 unit (i think it's an '11... its white?) Anyway, it was one I saw on local craigslist... REALLY clean and paid 400$ for it. I'm 5'8"ish with a 30" inseam.. 215, stocky build, the bike is a 16" and it actually seems to maneuver really well. I may seem a "wee" big for it? but i'm still thinking about what to adjust to avoid back probs


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I am 5'8" and doubted between 16" and 18" as I am usually a 17"... If it feels short you can a) lengthen the front -go with a bar with less backsweep, 12 degrees is a lot.... My 18" comes with a 90mm stem, not sure if 16" comes with something maybe shorter??? And then b) there is the set-back post from thomson or just push seat back. Finally c) is to watch out for and get a reduced frame and swap out frame for an 18" and sell the 16" frame on if you really wanted but if it rides well so what!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jkldouglas (Jun 8, 2012)

*My new ride*

Before Christmas I rode my friends Scandium One 9 and fell in love with the pureness of riding a rigid singlespeed. So I spend the Christmas break looking on the internet for parts for my own build. She got finished today and here she is:














The only thing I am waiting for is the orange Endless Kickass cog. It should be here on Tuesday but my LBS gave me a temp so that I could ride her this weekend.

Can't wait to take her out tomorrow.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

What's to your chainline with the X9 cranks?


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

jkldouglas said:


> Can't wait to take her out tomorrow.


Sharp looking


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## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

Just picked up one of the last remaining 2013's from my LBS. I prefer the raw look over the blue tint of the 2014. Lucky I was able to find one. Upgraded the grips to orange Oury, the pedals to CB 5050, Jagwire Mountain Pro cables and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. This week she gets a Ritchey carbon fork and Ritchey WCS stem. Last upgrade will be A set of Stans Arch EX wheels. Then I'm finished....


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

Saltflyer said:


> Just picked up one of the last remaining 2013's from my LBS. I prefer the raw look over the blue tint of the 2014. Lucky I was able to find one. Upgraded the grips to orange Oury, the pedals to CB 5050, Jagwire Mountain Pro cables and Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. This week she gets a Ritchey carbon fork and Ritchey WCS stem. Last upgrade will be A set of Stans Arch EX wheels. Then I'm finished....


should be a great bike after the upgrades you are planning. You could also consider a ritchey carbon bar. Carbon bar is working great for me on my unit

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk


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## jkldouglas (Jun 8, 2012)

worrptangl said:


> What's to your chainline with the X9 cranks?


I am running the X9 with a 30t MRP Bling Ring and the chainline is right at 2".


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## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

Cif said:


> should be a great bike after the upgrades you are planning. You could also consider a ritchey carbon bar. Carbon bar is working great for me on my unit
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk


Definitely considering a carbon bar but not sure which one to get. I trying to determine if I like the geometry of the stock bar. I definitely like the width but I am used to a bar with a low rise and a bit of a sweep. The Ritchey WCS is sweet and had perfect rise/sweep but it's only 665 mm wide. Not sure if I want to sacrifice almost 2 inches of width.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I havea Thomson carbon flat bar. They are 29" wide and have 6 deg bend. So far I'm liking them.


----------



## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

Very happy for several seasons with an Easton Haven 711mm (28") bar, 20mm rise, 9 degree sweep.

Easton Haven Carbon Handlebar 711mm


----------



## always_last (Jun 7, 2012)

I prefer the look of the 2013 since the color and graphics matches my 1994 Kona Kilauea, but this 2011 popped up on CL for $400 so I couldn't pass it up. The white and black is OK but a little plain for me. I added some vinyl pinstriping to give it more of a classic look and add a little color. And it's also faster now. I was the only one out in the snow last weekend that I saw.


----------



## jkldouglas (Jun 8, 2012)

Love the pin stripes always_last. I feel like if the bike looks like it would have come form the factory that way once you have done some asthetic mods, then it was done right. It looks like it would have come from the factory with the stripes.

Good job!


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Does anyone have a whiskey no. 7 fork on their Unit? And how do you like it?


----------



## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

randyharris said:


> Very happy for several seasons with an Easton Haven 711mm (28") bar, 20mm rise, 9 degree sweep.
> 
> Easton Haven Carbon Handlebar 711mm


Perfect bar! That's exactly what I am looking for. Are you running it on the 90mm stem? How do you like the handling?

Thanks..JJ


----------



## always_last (Jun 7, 2012)

jkldouglas said:


> Love the pin stripes always_last. I feel like if the bike looks like it would have come form the factory that way once you have done some asthetic mods, then it was done right. It looks like it would have come from the factory with the stripes.
> 
> Good job!


Thanks! That's about the best compliment you could give. It's amazing how that small detail changed the look of the bike for me. I seriously thought about getting the frame painted until I tried the stripes on a whim. It's hard to see but they are orange and black bands, and then I added orange bolt-on skewers and top cap. That's all the color I needed to make me happy though it is tough to restrain myself from adding more.


----------



## Kisherceg (Mar 5, 2007)

cborrman said:


> What's the plural of unit  ?


nice pair! i prefer the older, black&white one. it's much closer to my world.  maybe it deserves a salsa cro-moto fork, which should be obligatory on steel konas!


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Thanks. Mine is the white one  the other is a friends. If i swapped it would be for the 2014 and reynolds 520 to see if there was a difference, but the only real reason I could see for the newer head tube would be to put a new fork. If i went carbon i would go all carbon, if I went suspension I would then get gears, which for me us what ali or carbon hardtails are for. Had a look at the salsa fork; looks almost identical to the kona p2 except for dropouts?

Btw i think the headtube angle has changed since 2013??? Anyone?? 2011 seems more relaxed...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lamey (Feb 14, 2014)

Just picked this one up today, a "straggler", new but '13 model, only rode it a few hours, but man.... FUN.


----------



## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

cborrman said:


> Btw i think the headtube angle has changed since 2013??? Anyone?? 2011 seems more relaxed...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


2014 is 70 degrees for all sizes. 2014 only has 4 sizes though(15,17,19,21). I'm thinking that may be due to the better (more expensiver) Reynolds tubing.

Here is 2012&13 
2012








2013









Sent from my hammock


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## Lamey (Feb 14, 2014)

So glad I went ahead on the '13. I was considering a 14 for the upgrade tubes, but the 16 really fits me perfect, and I don't mind the slacker h/t angle.


----------



## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

Hi All -

Just installed my Ritchey WCS carbon fork and WCS stem... Weight is down to 24.5 pounds. Wheels next...either Stans Arch EX or American Classic Mtn or possibly the Wide Lightning...would be perfect with a nice wide tire.

The fork really fits the headtube perfect...like it was made for it.


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Lamey said:


> So glad I went ahead on the '13. I was considering a 14 for the upgrade tubes, but the 16 really fits me perfect, and I don't mind the slacker h/t angle.


+1 i have the 2011 with very slack h/t and love it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Nice saltflyer. Think the stock wheels on the newer ones are way lighter no? Mine in the '11 felt like tank tracks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## guitarhero (Dec 20, 2003)

I've just upgraded my 2010 Unit to a 2013. Frame was noticeably lighter, but I did size down from a 19 to an 18. Feels a touch more compliant too, but maybe that's the new bike placebo effect.


----------



## The Gen (Sep 9, 2012)

For me 2010 frame is potentially the nicest Unit ever made... I would never change it....


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

guitarhero said:


> I've just upgraded my 2010 Unit to a 2013. Frame was noticeably lighter, but I did size down from a 19 to an 18. Feels a touch more compliant too, but maybe that's the new bike placebo effect.


How is it, compared to your other rigid singlespeed?


----------



## guitarhero (Dec 20, 2003)

I.V.A. said:


> How is it, compared to your other rigid singlespeed?


Only had the new Unit a week, so the jury is out, but I had a chance to ride them back to back yesterday, and the Genesis takes it so far. The rigid specific geometry is just so dialled on that bike, and combined with the lighter front end (the P2 fork weighs a ton). The front end feels so good. 
It's not exactly apples with apples yet though, as the Genesis has considerably fatter tubeless rubber. I'll try the Kona with the other wheels on the trails sometime soon, which will give a better comparison.


----------



## spirometre (May 26, 2004)

thoughts from owners on 2013 v 2014 geo - although i'm after a 19" so probably not that much of an issue...

has anyone noticed that the reach on the 2013 18" is actually LONGER than the 19"... WTF? that makes no sense to me??? Anyone got thoughts on this?


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

ok, so I'm still new to the world of mountain biking and i didn't realize there are so many different axle sizes and different steerer tube dimensions. I have a 2013 Unit and I'm looking to get a front suspension fork but want to make sure all the specs will work for the unit. Can anyone tell me if this fork will work with the unit:

Rockshox Sid XX 100 29 Remote Fork 2013 > Components > Forks | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Yes. 9mm q/r with tapered steer tube.

(tapa)


----------



## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

Yeah that'll work. You just need to buy a different lower headset for a tapered fork. Or you could just buy an entire new headset. Cane creek has a great headset finder on their website.


Sent from my hammock


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Flyin_W said:


> Yes. 9mm q/r with tapered steer tube.
> 
> (tapa)


This isn't quite right. The stock bike supports a straight steerer (1 1/8) and 9mm quick release.

As the last poster noted, you can run a fork with a tapered steerer, but you'll need to get a new bottom headset cup. Also, it'll slacken the front end by 1/2 degree.


----------



## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Spillway, the linky was to a tapered fork with a 9 mm q/r. Will it fit? - yes. 
Thankfully the next guy explained the need to replace the OEM headset. So, what's your point? 
If it wasn't to educate all that 44mm headtubes support both straight & tapered steer tubes then
Get off my lawn!


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

alright, thanks for the help guys


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Touchy ego? Thanks for beating me up for clarifying for the newbie.


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

There are a ton of options. I figured if I wanted to get a fork I'd just go out and pick one out. I didn't realize there was half a dozen options I needed to select to make sure it was compatible. And looking at headsets is even more confusing, even with the cane creek website.


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

Really? You consider being told to get off my lawn a beating? Time to suck it up Buttercup! 😁

(tapa)


----------



## Spillway (Oct 13, 2011)

Jon, what you need is below. Full discussion at post #204 in this thread.



Spillway said:


> If you want to run a tapered fork on the 2013 Unit, here's what you need:
> 
> Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup > Components > Headsets and Spacers > Headsets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
> Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly
> ...


----------



## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Spillway said:


> Jon, what you need is below. Full discussion at post #204 in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Enjoyed a nice ride on the Unit on some fire roads in North Georgia. 25 miles with 3,400 feet of elevation gain


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*my KONAs first upgrade*








Just built this up as a result of many interesting posts. I like the idea of White Industries freewheel engagement as I ride a rocky area. But not in a spot to built up a king or DT . I'll report on how this setup works out.
:thumbsup:
Surly new ultra hub (poormans paul)
WI trials 20t
WTB KOM rim
wheelsmith 2.0 spokes straight with 12mm brass nips
ghetto tubeless and a 2.4 Ardent.


----------



## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

You'll love the Eno freewheel. Especially the trials version. I have an Eno freewheel and Paul hubs. Love them so smooth.


----------



## finch2 (Nov 13, 2009)

yeah, eno trials and pauls for me it's been really nice. A little hard to get that tiny bit of play out of the hub but they are light and solid. The freewheel has been flawless. I like the sound too.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Paul recommends that slight play. But it should be a very little amount.


----------



## finch2 (Nov 13, 2009)

worrptangl said:


> Paul recommends that slight play. But it should be a very little amount.


yes I talked to them they said it sounds like I have it adjusted correctly. I'd rather it be like that than rough or slow...the only thing it does is make my brakes squeal but only at low speed so not a problem. The play is small, and isn't noticeable on the bike, unlike a Hope pro2 front hub I had that needed surgery.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

I rode that upgrade last night for 10 miles in the dark under headlight/barlight. Wow I am really happy with the way the WI trials freewheel rides on my UNIT. Climbing in the rocks has gotten easier and quick back pedals to clear rocks that are close to trees are now flawless and you don't loose all of your speed doing it. I thinking of some s-works ground controls at 650 gr. should drop a pound + from the stock wheels with this rim and tire combo. Ardents are great but 800 gr. is pudgy. I'll eventually go with whisky carbon fork and answer 720 20/20 bars. anyone have something like that to post? It'll take me a while so for now I could enjoy yours


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I just got done installing a Truvativ AKA crankset with MRP bling ring and Chris King Bottom bracket. I have to say that it is OMFG smoother than the stock BB. Can't wait to hit the trail now.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

jondc84 said:


> ok, so I'm still new to the world of mountain biking and i didn't realize there are so many different axle sizes and different steerer tube dimensions. I have a 2013 Unit and I'm looking to get a front suspension fork but want to make sure all the specs will work for the unit. Can anyone tell me if this fork will work with the unit:


If you are still unsure about which headset to use, this is something that is probably dealt with by your LBS. It will be worth the bit of extra money knowing you got the right thing. Also, with BBs and Headsets, I personally don't want to be responsible for messing up the frame if I F up the install. Just know this, with the oversized headtube you can run basically any for steer tube.


----------



## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

*Unit Re-build*

I used to own this bike, and ran it as a SS with a squishy front fork. Then I sold it as it was my "other" bike and I could only maintain one dedicated MTB after having kids and buying a little house. After a year away I kinda missed it, so I decided to buy it back (for less than I sold it for and only two rides of use) and I have now converted it to a 1x10 and transferred all my fanciest bits over two it. I can't wait to get this thing on dirt! It is very far from stock at this point so maybe not even appropriate for this forum. Nonetheless, here it is:


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*Wheel upgrade follow up with crank and BB ?'s*



DPeper said:


> View attachment 874046
> 
> Just built this up as a result of many interesting posts. I like the idea of White Industries freewheel engagement as I ride a rocky area. But not in a spot to built up a king or DT . I'll report on how this setup works out.
> :thumbsup:
> ...


Wow the wheel upgrade is definitely a big hit! The WI trials freewheel is a tremendous piece of engineering. I am not liking the FSA Comet cranks. Is anyone having a preference on BB and cranks? I'm thinking Hope or King BB and cheap cranks. By cheap I'm thinking $100 raceface or anything other than comets. The left side dropped of twice and now they have a little play I thought it was the BB.


----------



## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

Funny how different people get on different with some items. I've got about 6,000 miles on my Comets now. The NDS arm fell off one time and one time only early on, put it back on and never a problem since.

I ride in a really rocky area and my crank arms are beat to heck, so I just run them knowing something nicer would get destroyed.


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## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

I just know I hate the factory BB. Replaced it and within 3 rides it was noisy and creaky again. No amount of TLC helps it. I think a nice BB and the comets should be fine.


Sent from my hammock


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## spatchy (Mar 1, 2014)

Paul.C said:


> I just know I hate the factory BB. Replaced it and within 3 rides it was noisy and creaky again. No amount of TLC helps it. I think a nice BB and the comets should be fine.
> 
> Sent from my hammock


What sort of BB did you replace with? I have heard there can be some that can fit a little tight with the comet. I am in the same boat with mostly indifference towards the comet but the bottom bracket's gotta go.

Also, putting a new bar on to try to cut back on some chatter, looking at thomson TI flat vs thomson carbon. Any thoughts?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I love the the Eno freewheel and so far working great with my AKA spider less crankset.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

randyharris said:


> Funny how different people get on different with some items. I've got about 6,000 miles on my Comets now. The NDS arm fell off one time and one time only early on, put it back on and never a problem since.
> 
> I ride in a really rocky area and my crank arms are beat to heck, so I just run them knowing something nicer would get destroyed.


SLX is as hard as nails and way nicer, but the Comet is OK, i just could not stop it / the BB creaking...


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I agree about the SLX cranks. I'm actually selling mine that I had on my unit.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I spent most of last season bashing away on some Raceface Atlas cranks. They're pretty burly, but the rigidity feels great, and as a 200+ pound dude I don't bine a little burl for a little extra weight.


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## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

spatchy said:


> What sort of BB did you replace with? I have heard there can be some that can fit a little tight with the comet. I am in the same boat with mostly indifference towards the comet but the bottom bracket's gotta go.
> 
> Also, putting a new bar on to try to cut back on some chatter, looking at thomson TI flat vs thomson carbon. Any thoughts?


The same one that came with the bike. Not sure of the model.

Sent from my hammock


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## spatchy (Mar 1, 2014)

What are you guys doing for rust prevention/touch ups? My is getting pretty beat up and wet weather riding is definitely on the menu where I'm at.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Its a good point! 

I have put the white finish line grease (seems to reduce/romove rust) on the external rust, and squirted WD40 in the frame holes, finally a muckynutz fender on front stops crud going up into the fork steerer tube...


----------



## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*It's a SS- mud and rust are acceptable.*

Just painted my ride Easter Egg Blue. I saw it on the new santa cruz Nomad with pink accents.


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## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

This is my newly built '14 unit.
Complete bike stripped to bare frame then rebuilt as I wanted.
Hope BB
Hope pick and mix head set
Hope seat post clamp
Hope Headset spacers
SLX m675 crankset
XT brakes
Alligator discs 180/160mmm
KCNC TI Pro Scandium seatpost
Halo Hex key skewers
Thomson x4 70mm stem
Thomson carbon flatbar
On one carbon 1piece fork
velosolo 32t chainring
velosolo 20t rear sprocket
KMC z510 chain

*standard wheels and tyres for now hope evo2 on crests on order

Awaiting delivery:
specialized phenom gel saddle 
Eggbeater3 pedals


----------



## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Oh man, take back all the other fancy bits and change those rims! (sweet build, still). I really want these for my Unit: WTB KOM i23 WTB KOM Rim | WTB


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

I know man they are SH 1T. Got my new front wheel just waiting on a rear hub thats on back order to finish the build. Those KOM i23's look amazing.


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

msportmike said:


> This is my newly built '14 unit.


Your bike makes me like my '13 Unit even more. :thumbsup:

Those SLX cranks look good, which model do you buy in order to convert to SS?


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

m0ngy said:


> Those SLX cranks look good, which model do you buy in order to convert to SS?


M675 10speed with a tiny washer on each crank spider arm to stop the outer plate of the chain touching with a 32T chainring (1/8th chain)


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

V. Nice. Slx is one of best cranks you can get and the bb just runs and runs... I am
Running a 2007 and a 2009 vintage on 2nd and 3rd bb... You have made me decide to pull trigger on thomson bar, which stem is it 0' or 6' rise?
Btw, seriously gaffer tape chainstay protector? Do tell: What chainslap are you expecting on singlespeed???


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

cborrman said:


> You have made me decide to pull trigger on thomson bar, which stem is it 0' or 6' rise?
> Btw, seriously gaffer tape chainstay protector? Do tell: What chainslap are you expecting on singlespeed???


Stems a 0' rise 70mm.
The tapes a result of my CDO....that's like OCD but I have to put the letters in the right order...I'm that bad


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

msportmike said:


> The tapes a result of my CDO....that's like OCD but I have to put the letters in the right order...I'm that bad


No, it's not. But you just read it somewhere and like the sound of it.


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

I.V.A. said:


> No, it's not. But you just read it somewhere and like the sound of it.


 I read it on my mental health assessment


----------



## chez817 (Apr 9, 2012)

I love my Kona. My favorite mtb I've ever owned.


----------



## thedumbopinion (May 15, 2008)

I'm assuming you painted the fork or is ther a version with an orange fork? I have the same rig and love that fork. I'm so surprised how well it handles the rough stuff. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


----------



## chez817 (Apr 9, 2012)

thedumbopinion said:


> I'm assuming you painted the fork or is ther a version with an orange fork? I have the same rig and love that fork. I'm so surprised how well it handles the rough stuff.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


I bought the frame used and it came with a orange salsa fork. It looks good on the bike and handles awesome.


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

All done - rides like a dream


----------



## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

Still the best bike I have ever owned!


----------



## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

wow that is a great looking setup


----------



## spirometre (May 26, 2004)

really think these are cool.
can anyone comment on the ride of these V something a little "nicer" like a Niner SIR?

is it just a couple of hundred grams, or are we talking genuine ride quality.
would LOVE custom... but don't think the dollars are there for that yet


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

msportmike said:


> All done - rides like a dream
> 
> View attachment 893372
> View attachment 893373
> ...


Ooo yeah, and now, to _really_ go CDO on the Unit, use some gaffer tape in a very meticulous way, like you did on the chainstay, and make some fork boots to protect the stanchions on your rigid fork.


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

I.V.A. said:


> Ooo yeah, and now, to _really_ go CDO on the Unit, use some gaffer tape in a very meticulous way, like you did on the chainstay, and make some fork boots to protect the stanchions on your rigid fork.


will do thanks&#8230;.:yawn:


----------



## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*got me one!*








hi all 
had to get me one too!
done a few "easier" trails - this bike rocks!
greetings from israel
hazz


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Cool. You might want to adjust your seat angle down a bit. Also, try a different set of bars, I didn't think the stock ones were very comfortable.


----------



## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

m0ngy said:


> Cool. You might want to adjust your seat angle down a bit. Also, try a different set of bars, I didn't think the stock ones were very comfortable.


thanks m0ngy, advice is always welcome 
i'll try the seat angle and hardware changes will wait until i collect a few more kilometers


----------



## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

msportmike said:


> All done - rides like a dream
> 
> View attachment 893372
> View attachment 893373
> ...


Nice! That's one good looking bike.


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

bmf032 said:


> Nice! That's one good looking bike.


Indeed, sex on wheels.


----------



## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

:lol::lol: indeed!


----------



## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

This build looks super clean. Actually saw one of these new blue ones up close, and the site doesn't really do the finish justices. Seeing the brazing through the blue is really cool. I've got a 2011, and I'd almost be wiling to upgrade to the new one, but that seems dumb.


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

Finally got to race my '14 unit - solo 24hr. bike was perfect..not so my performance after months off with an arm injury. Still loved it though


----------



## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

You're an animal dude, good sh!t.


----------



## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

Don't beat yourself about it. It's not easy to drag all that superfluous weight around your waist for the better part of your life, let alone for the 24 hours on a singlespeed.


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

I.V.A. said:


> Don't beat yourself about it. It's not easy to drag all that superfluous weight around your waist for the better part of your life, let alone for the 24 hours on a singlespeed.


Haha yep your right I.V.A. Everyday's a struggle for the fat lad at the back


----------



## petrini (Apr 2, 2010)

Hi, what are you running for a stem. I love this set-up on your Unit!


----------



## msportmike (May 3, 2014)

Thomson x4 70mm stem


----------



## christop1977 (May 16, 2012)

Just pick it up this weekend . Took it out last night. Loving it!!!!


----------



## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

Anyone else destroy their spindle? It'd only been 10 months, ~1000 miles.


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

iceboxsteve said:


> Anyone else destroy their spindle? It'd only been 10 months, ~1000 miles.


I did notice on greasing the bearings twice on the original wheels that one of the bearings had popped slightly out of its seating... which if left unattended could cause spindle failure? (think it was the same one on the drive side???) the second time I caked it in with white finish line grease which seems to have set the bearings


----------



## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

This is slightly off topic but I just bought an old unit 26" (07 I think) and I'm trying to give it a raw finish like the '13. Everything I've read said steel will rust under any type of clearcoat. Anyone have issues with the raw finish rusting under it's clearcoat? 

Is it a clear powdercoat? Or some kind of lacquer?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## mattbryant2 (Apr 19, 2005)

I am looking for a size 22 Unit frameset from either 2011, 2012, or 2013. If you have one you are willing to part with, let me know! Thanks.


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

rusty904 said:


> This is slightly off topic but I just bought an old unit 26" (07 I think) and I'm trying to give it a raw finish like the '13. Everything I've read said steel will rust under any type of clearcoat. Anyone have issues with the raw finish rusting under it's clearcoat?
> 
> Is it a clear powdercoat? Or some kind of lacquer?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


The clear coat is only on the 2014 afaik which is the first year this bike has shifted to reynolds 520 tubing... May have something to do with it???

From my brief work with carbon fibre, I also learned there is clear coat (available over counter) and clear coat (available for industrial locations that involves mixing two toxic chemicals...) The latter was as hard as nails, the former not much better than a good wax polish...


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

If anyone has lost the sliding dropout adjuster screws (I did once, then kona sent me some others slightly different and lost drive side again.. ) I noticed the screws that held the spesh zee cage to its packaging are same thread and have a nice plastic nut that *may* hold longer than the metal one... Its only really long enough for those who chose gearing to keep the wheelbase as short at possible as well


----------



## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Went back to bb7 brakes and loving them  anybody upgraded the levers to speed dial 7???


----------



## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

cborrman said:


> Went back to bb7 brakes and loving them  anybody upgraded the levers to speed dial 7???


I was going to 'upgrade my FR-5's but I like the lower profile of them over the SD7's. Plus, once I get my brakes properly adjusted I would rarely use the adjusters. The SD7's are really nice levers and such a great deal price wise so it wouldn't be an expensive experiment either way. I have my BB7's working flawlessly with the FR-5s so I decided to not do that impulse upgrade and instead will wear out my FR5s. Once they fail I'll probably purchase the SD7s though. Not ditching the BB7s any time soon that's for sure. Once properly setup they are great brakes. I am a big fan of them.


----------



## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

MikeAK said:


> I was going to 'upgrade my FR-5's but I like the lower profile of them over the SD7's. Plus, once I get my brakes properly adjusted I would rarely use the adjusters. The SD7's are really nice levers and such a great deal price wise so it wouldn't be an expensive experiment either way. I have my BB7's working flawlessly with the FR-5s so I decided to not do that impulse upgrade and instead will wear out my FR5s. Once they fail I'll probably purchase the SD7s though. Not ditching the BB7s any time soon that's for sure. Once properly setup they are great brakes. I am a big fan of them.


yup. 20+ year shop guy here and wouldn't run anything else. just replaced my hydros that came stock on my bike with new bb7 and fr-5's. brilliant. had the same setup for 10 years on an independent fabrication ti 29er. and my 13' unit. man does the unit handle 10x better than the ti indy did. holy smokes

and it retails for 1/5th............

rog


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## rjx (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm new to using water bottles / cages.

Are there any particular water bottle cages I should look at for the 2014 Unit? I've seen some older Units with two water bottle cages. Is it possible to mount 2 bottles on a 2014 Unit?


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## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

rjx said:


> I'm new to using water bottles / cages.
> 
> Are there any particular water bottle cages I should look at for the 2014 Unit? I've seen some older Units with two water bottle cages. Is it possible to mount 2 bottles on a 2014 Unit?


Unless you're a weight weenie than any cage will do. I use some $3 aluminum cage I purchased from a local shop. Definitely not the lightest out there but it holds my bottle just the same.


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

When I put them on my 2013 I hadn't used cages in years. The only thing I ran into is some cages hold the water bottles better on rough terrain than others. I'm using cages that wrap around the bottle so it must be pulled out from the side. This has worked well for me. Good luck.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

bmf032 said:


> When I put them on my 2013 I hadn't used cages in years. The only thing I ran into is some cages hold the water bottles better on rough terrain than others. I'm using cages that wrap around the bottle so it must be pulled out from the side. This has worked well for me. Good luck.


For me nothing holds better on rough terrian but is easier to get at bottle with than the specialized zee cage plastic cages. The only issue is they do not like the 1 litre SIS bottles but there is only one ride I need them on.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

*This should be it.*

K, I think I'm actually done now. Built up some KOM rims to DT Swiss Hubs, and slapped on some new Nobby Nics - this time in the 2.35 model. Seemed appropriate as I just dropped about 50 grams or more on rims. Also finally got in my matchy matchy atlas bar to go with my atlas cranks, and put a few touches of bling so I was a bit more coordinated with the uber gold Kashima sliders. This bike feels a lot stiffer now, in all the right ways. The frame looks ragged as hell next to all the new bits. Tempted to paint it, but if I spend any money on a frame, it'll be towards a whole new one.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jcitizen1 said:


> K, I think I'm actually done now. Built up some KOM rims to DT Swiss Hubs, and slapped on some new Nobby Nics - this time in the 2.35 model. Seemed appropriate as I just dropped about 50 grams or more on rims. Also finally got in my matchy matchy atlas bar to go with my atlas cranks, and put a few touches of bling so I was a bit more coordinated with the uber gold Kashima sliders. This bike feels a lot stiffer now, in all the right ways. The frame looks ragged as hell next to all the new bits. Tempted to paint it, but if I spend any money on a frame, it'll be towards a whole new one.


White 2011 is nice, I have one  2014 could tempt me, 2015 even more if its 1x only (cleaner right chainstay, no cable stops) and if tapered headset... Done deal, but in meantime 2011 is one of the best of all and last of straight (=stronger?) downtube??? When you say ragged do you mean logos wearing or more than that? Was wonding if kona do touch-up vinyl decals????


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

*2011 with X0 cranks, Crossmax ST wheels, upgrade rotors*







fat white hubs, white/black rims and spokes of crossmax st do look great with white and black bike, and handle well with the stiffness of originals but so much lighter... You can also fit superlight tubeless furious freds for major summer KOM activity  (lots of sealant needed for furious freds)


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## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

cborrman said:


> but in meantime 2011 is one of the best of all and last of straight (=stronger?) downtube???


2012 (orange one) is the last Unit with straight downtube.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I.V.A. said:


> 2012 (orange one) is the last Unit with straight downtube.


Ah, thanks! I am worried... At this rate I will convince myself I need more than one Unit...


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## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

No, you're good. Unless, Kona decide to make Unit out of Reynolds 853. But I don't see that happening. What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

I.V.A. said:


> What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.


heh, ^^^^^^^crazy talk right there. the current/and 2013 unit is one of the most, if not the most (along with the jake the snake) dialed, as far as geometry and handling is concerned of any kona produced since 1988. bike is perfect for it's intended versatile purpose. call the guys at kona. they'll tell you the same thing. unit is a unit, honzo is a honzo. maybe you should get a honzo

rog


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## I.V.A. (Feb 19, 2007)

newmarketrog said:


> heh, ^^^^^^^crazy talk right there. the current/and 2013 unit is one of the most, if not the most (along with the jake the snake) dialed, as far as geometry and handling is concerned of any kona produced since 1988. bike is perfect for it's intended versatile purpose. call the guys at kona. they'll tell you the same thing. unit is a unit, honzo is a honzo. maybe you should get a honzo
> 
> rog


Honzo is too much bike for at least 50% of the people that bought it. Unit could be the perfect answer for those people. And for many others who love a good steel hardtail. Crazy talk for narrowminded simple folks, maybe, but there is nothing wrong with agresive geometry for XC.You can bow before your shrine for the most dialled bike since 1988, but that does't mean things can't get better.
And I'm sure nobody at Kona, or any other brand for that matter, will tell me that any of their bikes is not the most dialled bike. Ever.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

@cborrman the paint is totally trashed. Lots of scrapes and dings over couple of seasons of riding have left it looking used beyond its miles. The paint job looks great when new, but does't last long at all. 

The black and white is pretty timelesss.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I.V.A. said:


> No, you're good. Unless, Kona decide to make Unit out of Reynolds 853. But I don't see that happening. What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.


I enjoy my unit for sure, but bikes like the Yelli Screamy have me dreaming of something more like you describe. Half a degree slacker and .5" shorter chainstays would make it climb that much better out of the saddle, and rip down decents with that much more stabilty. I too would like to see a unit in a better tubeset to shed a little weight. Till then, I'll be enjoying what I got.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I.V.A. said:


> No, you're good. Unless, Kona decide to make Unit out of Reynolds 853. But I don't see that happening. What I would like to see happen even more is more changes in geometry. Unit is already listed as trail bike in Kona's line up, but pushing it just a little bit more in the realm of the Honzo could only bee a good thing. Little shorter chainstays, little more reach, half a degree slacker headangle... Angry 100mm 29er.


yep +1, but without honzo heft!


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jcitizen1 said:


> @cborrman the paint is totally trashed. Lots of scrapes and dings over couple of seasons of riding have left it looking used beyond its miles. The paint job looks great when new, but does't last long at all.
> 
> The black and white is pretty timelesss.


shame. one problem is I am convinced matte clear coats are not a durable as gloss ones??? In any case, I now give my a coat of muc-off miracle shine after each clean, seams to a) keep the finish better, b) help clean the next time quicker


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

newmarketrog said:


> heh, ^^^^^^^crazy talk right there. the current/and 2013 unit is one of the most, if not the most (along with the jake the snake) dialed, as far as geometry and handling is concerned of any kona produced since 1988. bike is perfect for it's intended versatile purpose. call the guys at kona. they'll tell you the same thing. unit is a unit, honzo is a honzo. maybe you should get a honzo
> rog


I am with I.V.A, when the Honzo came out I immediately wanted one, then realised I only ride that way a few times a year, and when I do, I could do it way faster, way more efficiently on a giant anthem that will be easier up the hills £ for £, as way less .lbs...

Am I right in thinking there is a slight difference in geometry of 2011 & 2012 vs the curved downtube / oversize headtube ones?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

I.V.A. said:


> Honzo is too much bike for at least 50% of the people that bought it. Unit could be the perfect answer for those people. And for many others who love a good steel hardtail. Crazy talk for narrowminded simple folks, maybe, but there is nothing wrong with agresive geometry for XC.You can bow before your shrine for the most dialled bike since 1988, but that does't mean things can't get better.
> And I'm sure nobody at Kona, or any other brand for that matter, will tell me that any of their bikes is not the most dialled bike. Ever.


trust me. trust them.

rog


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

newmarketrog said:


> trust me. trust them.
> 
> rog


... as in trust a profit making organisation who stuck millions into marketing, development, design and production to create multiple segment products, as well as price points, to make one small tweak that may be amazing but jeopardize millions of investment and years of market segmentation 

... the truth is, much of this lies in of the honzo is making money or not, if the Unit is due a product update or not, what else is going on in Konasville, what the competition are doing, what the market trends are, how well the present unit is selling, many, many things dictate product tweaks beyond pure geometry making sense...


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

The Unit ain't light, so building up a Honzo with a lighter spec is not too crazy an idea if you want the shorter stays and head-angle.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jcitizen1 said:


> The Unit ain't light, so building up a Honzo with a lighter spec is not too crazy an idea if you want the shorter stays and head-angle.


If only! If you look elsewhere on this forum the Honzo comes in at over 7lbs with all the bracing for big forks:

http://forums.mtbr.com/kona/honzo-frame-weight-832342.html

Vs 4.5 lbs for the unit...

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/kona-unit-2011-frame-weight-size-22-a-684806.html

That's about £1,500 of weight loss needed on fancy components to get a honzo down to unit weight


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

No way in hay the Unit frame is 4.5 pounds. My bike is built up pretty light, and is still 27.5 lbs

The Cotic Solaris, for instance, is more than 4.5lb and it is made of nicer steel and doesn't have sliding dropouts. the Product of COTIC cycles : SOLARIS, our new 29er trail riding weapon : #sizematters My mechanic quoted my frame at about 5.5lb, which seems reasonalble

7lb is beefy.


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## escocia (Nov 14, 2010)

Here my Unit 2011 but a little bit different than the original one:


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jcitizen1 said:


> No way in hay the Unit frame is 4.5 pounds. My bike is built up pretty light, and is still 27.5 lbs
> 
> The Cotic Solaris, for instance, is more than 4.5lb and it is made of nicer steel and doesn't have sliding dropouts. the Product of COTIC cycles : SOLARIS, our new 29er trail riding weapon : #sizematters My mechanic quoted my frame at about 5.5lb, which seems reasonalble
> 
> 7lb is beefy.


Well most honzo set-ups are 30bls+ so 27 for a Unit would ad up as per those links...


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

escocia said:


> Here my Unit 2011 but a little bit different than the original one:
> 
> View attachment 905850


Did you get this done custom? Looks great. Timeless.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

escocia said:


> Here my Unit 2011 but a little bit different than the original one:
> 
> View attachment 905850


Nice, you shot / sand blasted the paint off?


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## escocia (Nov 14, 2010)

I did it by myself at home. A few hours work but it was worth it. I used sand paper.
Thanks for the coments


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## rvercoe (Nov 7, 2010)

*All-Mtn Unit*



> Hi would welcome some feedback - considering a Manitou Fork; only 80mm or 120mm available; 80mm consistent with current geometry on the Unit, the 120mm fork would drop the angle by 3 degrees to 67. Firstly, anyone experience with this HA and fork with this amount of travel - good, bad?


I put a Manitou Tower Pro w/ 120mm and a QR15 thru-axle on my 2013 UNIT. It is super sweet! You are correct in that the Head angle drops to about 67 degrees and it lifts the bottom bracket to 13.5 inches. This set-up, combined with a 1x9 drivetrain and 2.3 in Nobby Nics makes for a brilliant All-Mtn type set-up for steep n' deep N.Georgia mountain riding. It is kind of like a "Honzo Lite" with this set-up. I really like the feel. It is not too sluggish feeling on the front end for handling tight, twisty slower stuff, but is really capable handling fast steep descents while still climbing like a mtn goat on the technical climbs. Being geared, I am able to run the drop-outs all the way forward for a short, tight chainstay combined with the 48mm offset on the Manitou to create a really balanced ride. Here are some pics:


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Wow, so nice brushed look. What did you seal / coat it with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I put a carbon thomson flat xc bar on and has transformed the ride. My one complaint with the bike handling wise was that with the 12' back sweep sometimes your weight was too far back, like when climbing out of saddle and the frnmt wheel hit an obstacle like a root that was too small / could not be bothered lifting the front over; I would feel my weight tipped to far forward for a moment. None of this with the thomson. The extra 1cm is good for remembering the first ride "put the wheel exactly where you want it" precision and give a nice position for xc cruising as well 








I went for the avid sd-7 brakes as per previous comments as well. They were a breeze to fit and even slightly smaller profile to the fr-5 (contrary to another comment here) just slackened the caliper bolt, pulled the fr-5 out and on when the sd-7, had to take out about 1-2cm of slack at the caliper bolt.







did it while changing the bar. All in 20 mins including cleaning, greasing and coffee appriciation 
So far have not needed / put any carbon paste, with no real rise / leverage seems happy at 5Nm and clean surface, tho the bars did have a coat of muc-off miracle shine before going on, which seems to give a "grippy" coating to carbon (try on brake surface of carbon rims).
There was no need to play with extra adjustment, will do that after a bigger ride when I work out what I want to dial in.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rvercoe (Nov 7, 2010)

cborrman said:


> Wow, so nice brushed look. What did you seal / coat it with?
> 
> No treatment as of yet. Just getting "brushed" from multiple washings and toweling off. Any recommendations on treating the raw frame?


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

rvercoe said:


> cborrman said:
> 
> 
> > Wow, so nice brushed look. What did you seal / coat it with?
> ...


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Aka clear coat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

I'm sorry - I thought the 2013 did have an orange tint clear coat over the matte steel. 
Is this incorrect?


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

Clear coat is usually polyurathane afaik, the water based ones are less durable but clear, not sure if you would want to use with chromoly??? The oil based one is more durable and seems to make sense with chromoly frame, but yes it does have an orange/yellow tinge


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

cborrman said:


> Clear coat is usually polyurathane afaik, the water based ones are less durable but clear, not sure if you would want to use with chromoly??? The oil based one is more durable and seems to make sense with chromoly frame, but yes it does have an orange/yellow tinge


Not sure if that was meant for me -- still, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I was under the impression that the stock 2013 Unit comes with a clear coat layer over the raw finished cromoly. However, I'm getting a bit anxious if this is the case now that you're talking about clear coating the 2013 frame. Would be awesome if you could shed some light on this. Have heard of several owners regurarly riding in wet conditions without clear coating their stock Units.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jocke said:


> Not sure if that was meant for me -- still, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I was under the impression that the stock 2013 Unit comes with a clear coat layer over the raw finished cromoly. However, I'm getting a bit anxious if this is the case now that you're talking about clear coating the 2013 frame. Would be awesome if you could shed some light on this. Have heard of several owners regurarly riding in wet conditions without clear coating their stock Units.


No, this clearcoat comment was for escocia who had sanded off paint on a 2011. I do squirt WD40 in the holes around seat and chainstays and the gussets on fork and downtube tho


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks for clarifying, dude!


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## BlueSteel (Apr 18, 2005)

Mike,
What did you get for a final build weight, after wheelset upgrade? Thanks in advance!


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

rvercoe said:


> I put QR15 thru-axle on my 2013 UNIT.
> View attachment 907409


Has anyone converted the 2013 Unit rear axle to 12x142 axle?
Any details/ link to purchase parts available?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

cborrman said:


> shame. one problem is I am convinced matte clear coats are not a durable as gloss ones??? In any case, I now give my a coat of muc-off miracle shine after each clean, seams to a) keep the finish better, b) help clean the next time quicker


I ordered a Bike Skinz matte clear full bike kit. I did the down tube, BB, back or seat tube, chanistays and anywhere I get rub. Wasn't expensive took some time to install but you can see it unless you are close and hase protected my frame the way it says it will. I still have enough extra pieces to replace a good portion if they get damaged.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

I'm hoping someone here can help me make a decision. 

About to buy my first SS MTB, I've decided on getting a Kona Unit. I was dead set on grabbing a 2013 over the 2014 (since I like the raw finish with orange accents better than the blue one), but along comes Kona releasing the 2015 version in purple. Now, I've done this specifications sheet comparison of my own and as far as I can see, the only real differences between the 2013 and both of 2014 and 2015 is the use of Reynolds 520, overall sizing system and choice of stock tires (wider). Sure, the 2015 uses Joytech hubs instead of Formulas as well as a Joytech freewheel over a Formula, but I can't see that it makes much of a difference. 

As a "newbie" to all this I can't see the reasons for me to get the 2015 version over the 2013, when I still like the 2013 finish the best -- yes, I'm going that hard on looks. I'm a tall dude, just around 6"4 so I'm thinking I would be better off with a 22" instead of an 21". Then again, I've been recommended an 20" by one ex-owner of the 2013. It's not like I'm going to do some serious, technical trails to start with -- I just want an alternative bike to my Surly Steamroller, for the occasional fun ride in the woods. 

Any thoughts?


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## easyrider75 (Aug 6, 2012)

Got to say, love the new 2015 version in purple. Reminds me of the 92 Lavadome I used to own. I've already got a 2008 Unit, I'm not sure I can justify a second one. Other than the fact the stand over clearance is better on the new ones.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I have a 2011, the only thing that would get me on a 2014/2015 is the 520 tubing. I would not worry about hubs either, but rims do make a difference, and 2014 comes with tubeless ready ones that should be ok... Have not checked 2015 yet... The previous year will soon be on sale though which may help your decision...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I can't imagine the tubing is really much different the old 4130 stuff they used. If it was, the bike would be pricier. I'd like the bigger steer (riding a 2011 as well), but don't think it is worth the upgrade. I wish they'd do an 853 version, or some other really fancy alloy that would help it shed a little weight.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Reynolds 520 versus 4130


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Mmmmm purple!!! Must resist weakness and temptation


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Yeah, I'm not worried about standover clearance -- and that link was great, thanks for sharing, jcitizen1. Not that tubeless isn't interesting for me, but I can't really see myself doing that just yet so no biggie there either really. 

Hopefully the 2013 will go on sale soon (still RRP at the only online Kona retailer I can find in Sweden!). I appreciate all the answers!


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## spatchy (Mar 1, 2014)

*It rides better than it looks*









My vote's for the raw finish


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## spatchy (Mar 1, 2014)




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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

@jocke 

Please go tubeless. No MTB tire should have to put up with a tube. Honestly, it's easy, works better, and lasts longer. I have never met anyone who made the switch (ran proper psi) and ever went back.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I love raw and orange. This might be the nicest looking UNIT. Mildly jealous.


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## BlueSteel (Apr 18, 2005)

spatchy said:


> View attachment 911533
> 
> 
> My vote's for the raw finish


Spatchy,
let's see more pics of your unit! Very nice! Uhhh, can I say that on this forum ..


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

BlueSteel said:


> Spatchy,
> let's see more pics of your unit! Very nice! Uhhh, can I say that on this forum ..


Only in this thread.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

From my ride up on The North Shore of Oahu yesterday!


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Ugh, you guys are killing me. Great looking Units!

And is going tubeless that much better, huh? Might have to reconsider that then. Perhaps I could do one of those ghetto tubeless operations, since I'm now going with the 2013!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I converted my stock wheelset to tubeless just fine with Stan's tape and valves. Just use a tube and pump up the tire to like 50 psi and let it set for a few hours then deflate and go tubeless.


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## RiderNS (Jul 28, 2014)

I have a Trek Stache but I"m really wanting to add a rigid SS to the collection.

Are there any other women who here who ride rigid SS? I'm really wanting to get a rigid SS 29er and after checking the geometry for many of the most popular bikes, the Kona Unit seems like it will fit me best.

It looks like a fun bike, but unfortunately no bike stores within a 100 mile radius have this bike in stock. Any input is appreciated!


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks for the heads up, worrptangl.

Well, its seems like that retailer I've found _maybe _ are out of all the 2013's so perhaps I have to go with the purple 2015. Just my luck. Anyways, thanks everyone who've chipped in on my questions. Greatly appreciated!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

No problem! Don't worry about getting the purple, cause purple is awesome...


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Has anyone tried mounting a Maxxis Ikon 2.35 to the rear?


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I've got a Nobby Nic 2.35 with plenty of clearance. Wouldn't go much bigger, though.


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

How far back on the sliders is your wheel?


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

jcitizen1 said:


> I've got a Nobby Nic 2.35 with plenty of clearance. Wouldn't go much bigger, though.


Me too, but is on "old school" thinner rims, if you have fatter modem rims maybe too much, and a 2.25 may get you that cushion / grip / etc you are looking for...


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## heyheyitselliej (Mar 28, 2010)

*Kona Unit with 120mm fork*

Just finished building up a 2014 Unit frame and now that I've got about half a dozen rides on it I feel comfortable posting a short review:

Me: I'm 5'7", 145 lbs. I'm into endurance XC racing and all day epics. I try to build my bikes so they are a jack-of-all-trades do anything bike, with a focus on "trail" riding if you must call it that.

Location: Albuquerque, NM and the surrounding areas

2014 17" Kona Unit frame (5.77 lbs with sliders and hardware)
Manitou Tower Pro 120mm fork with 20mm thru-axle
Flows with Hope hubs (rear SS bolt on)
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 F/Maxxis Ikon 2.2 R - Tubeless
Cane Creek 40 Series Zero-Stack
Thomson Elite X4 Stem - 50mm
Easton Monkey Lite Carbon Riser Bars
ESI Chunky Grips
Cane Creek Bar Ends
Shimano XT Icetech Brakes
Thomson Seatpost
Fizik Saddle
Truvativ Stylo 1.1 OCT Cranks
RaceFace Single Ring - 34T
Endless Cog - 19T
Total Weight: Not yet weighed.

The Unit came with a rigid fork, making the equivalent suspension fork somewhere between 80-100mm. I already had the 120mm Tower handy and am addicted to the plush ride I get with the Mars Air spring combo. I knew this was going to raise the front of the bike up and change the HTA to the neighborhood of 68 degrees. I helped to counter this additional height by using a zero-stack headset and reducing the spacers under the stem to about 4mm. I was also able to save about 11mm in the headtube/headset stack height compared with the previous setup (Nimble 9 with a standard headtube). By also using a 50mm stem (stock Unit build is 60mm), I feel I was able to counter any effects on the steering that the extra 20mm of fork generated. I immediately noticed that the Unit is stiffer than the Canfield was, while still having some compliance when things get really choppy. Switchbacks, which had me worried, feel easier despite the longer stays. The bike climbs SOOOO much better. When I hammer on the pedals the bike just takes off! I'd have to attribute this change to the geometry, stiffness, and stem all working together.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

worrptangl said:


> How far back on the sliders is your wheel?


As I'm running gears my sliders are rammed forward, and there is still clearance for the 2.35 Nics. They're on WTB KOMs which are 28/23mm External/Internal respectively, so unless you have really big rims you should be good to go.


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## RiderNS (Jul 28, 2014)

Those look great, guys!

I got a '14 Unit last weekend at a great sale price (at least, I think it's great) of $800.

The only change I made was throwing a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 on the front and running the tires tubeless.

The first day I had the front tire at 22psi and then took it out yesterday at 20psi. Those 2 psi made a HUGE difference in ride quality. I normally ride a hardtail and our trails have lots of roots, but the Unit handled perfectly. I didn't even miss the front suspension.

LOVE this bike!


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Just slap a 2.4 on the back too. You deserve the cush.


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## RiderNS (Jul 28, 2014)

jcitizen1 said:


> Just slap a 2.4 on the back too. You deserve the cush.


Hmm, I thought about it but it seemed a little too tight for a 2.4. Was anyone able to get a 2.4 on the rear of a '14?


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

Are any of you with a 2013 Unit having issues with the clearcoat finish coming off and developing some surface rust? if so what are you doing to resolve this issue? any of you re-painting the bike? Thanks


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

jondc84 said:


> Are any of you with a 2013 Unit having issues with the clearcoat finish coming off and developing some surface rust? if so what are you doing to resolve this issue? any of you re-painting the bike? Thanks


Mines of 2014 I don't know about the rest but Krylon makes awesome spray paint and i paint mine every couple months


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

DPeper said:


> Mines of 2014 I don't know about the rest but Krylon makes awesome spray paint and i paint mine every couple months


Nice, how long does the paint hold up? I don't want to have to re-paint it once every couple of months.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

jondc84 said:


> Nice, how long does the paint hold up? I don't want to have to re-paint it once every couple of months.


yeah I've painted my bike two different colors this summer so I'm not sure how long the hold up but they still look good each time I paint them. The pink is called Ballet Slipper Pink my 5 daughters like it anyway, so I'll probably finish out the year this color.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*a little unit experience*

i took advice from the posts in this forum,
now it's time to share a bit of my experience with my new unit

i wrote this after one month ownership and the first 160 km / 100 miles

geometry
i am 178 cm / 5 foot 10.
i used to ride a specialized stumpjumper comp M 2006 model for a few years.
later i put my hands on a bargain stumpjumper comp L 2011 model.
i felt more comfortable with the M stumpy, the L still feels to long for me.
regardless i went for the L unit - the M that i tested in someone's backyard
felt to short - it's single speed, it's getting out of the seat and having
the handlebars between your legs.
so i decided to buy the L version, it feels like a perfect suit.

the handle bar was to low for me, i had to support my upper body with my hands causing needle and pins feeling, or with my back that hurt soon.

flipping the stem solved that problem mostly, the handle bar is now only a bit less than an inch lower than the seat (i didn't measure before flipping) seat hight is 102 cm / 40.2 inches.

weight
my unit is all stock - except a bottle cage and fresh tubes with no-flat-fluid. the weight is 12.6 kg - 27.8 lbs

gear
i only do AM style single trails. for flat trails with little climbs the 32/18 gear is fine. above 25 kmh / 15 mph there is not much use of pedalling, so on flat terrain i do about 20 kmh / 12 mph. little climbs are also ok.
for rocky blocked trails with climbs the 32/18 gear is difficult for me but
great pleasure to succeed impossible climbs.
and for the real impossible climbs i consider getting a 30/20 set, wich allows me to stay with the same chain.

reason i got the bike
with my full suspension bike i succeed all of my hometrails without
putting a leg down. got bored, needed a new challenge. one day i saw
that guy on his unit and thought "impossible!". well on the unit a lot
of impossible things i found are possible - and if not: still fun to try.

lately on a very difficult climb i succeeded almost all of it, arrived
at the top with such a big smile on my face - just to get it beaten
out of my wrists on the way down!
so bottom line: on easier and medium difficult trails i use the unit
and on very difficult climbs with fast rocky descents - i use my
good old "american comfort recliner sofa" with full suspension.

update after 4 month ownership, 860 km / 540 miles:

i replaced the pedals for clipless ones.
the stock handles were pretty worn off after 500km/300miles. i replaced them and got me some bolt-in bar end plugs too. the original plastic plugs got lost probably when connecting with trees and bushes on narrow trails.

i actually bought the unit as a second bike for extra challenge... but meanwhile my legs got stronger, the unit is my first bike now, i hardly use the full suspension anymore. i manage to do all my trails without walking except very few places i climb by foot.
the gear stayed 32/18, it's just right like that.

the only thing i consider changing now is getting me a suspension fork. i really like the bike as it is, but the suspension fork would give some extra speed=fun on the descents.

on the other hand rigid is pure and a great show off:
"yeah, my balls are Cromoly too"


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> lately on a very difficult climb i succeeded almost all of it, arrived
> at the top with such a big smile on my face - just to get it beaten
> out of my wrists on the way down!


Fun to read somebody else having almost the exact same experience that I did. I had a FS 29er and it was too easy to ride, so I bought a UNIT for fun, something I'd ride once in a while and mix it up - make it more about the rider. Only I realized immediately that I preferred it much more to my FS, sold off the Hei Hei less than two months later and I've never looked back.

I occasionally ride rigid because I love it, but most of the time I run with a suspension fork because it's so rocky and rough out here in Phoenix that it saves me arms and hands from taking a beating on longer rides.

Thanks for posting that!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

randyharris said:


> Fun to read somebody else having almost the exact same experience that I did. I had a FS 29er and it was too easy to ride, so I bought a UNIT for fun, something I'd ride once in a while and mix it up - make it more about the rider. Only I realized immediately that I preferred it much more to my FS, sold off the Hei Hei less than two months later and I've never looked back.
> 
> I occasionally ride rigid because I love it, but most of the time I run with a suspension fork because it's so rocky and rough out here in Phoenix that it saves me arms and hands from taking a beating on longer rides.
> 
> Thanks for posting that!


if you ride athletically and actively, there's no reason not too ride rigid no matter how rocky/techy your terrain is. take charge of your bike and the terrain you ride.

rog


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

newmarketrog said:


> if you ride athletically and actively, there's no reason not too ride rigid no matter how rocky/techy your terrain is. take charge of your bike and the terrain you ride.
> 
> rog


Didn't work for me, tried it for a couple years and it beat the )(*^%$ out of me, riding regularly 3X a week, ~ 7 hours a week.

I keep it suspension fork most of the time and occasionally go back to rigid for a few weeks at a time.


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

my 2013 Kona Unit powder coated olive drab. set up with my rigid fork and skinny tires for cross racing!


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I had to do the suspension fork too. I have a back up bike (rigid, heavy, 26er!), but otherwise I only ride my unit, with front squish, and geared. I never ever think of going back to rear squish until I move to a place with mountains or more gravity oriented trails. It is so rare that my bike leaves me wanting more. My skill is what I like more of...


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

I love that OD green!


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## jondc84 (Nov 15, 2013)

bmf032 said:


> I love that OD green!


Thanks, I'm real happy with how it turned out!


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

Funny seeing this thread popup, I just purchased a brand new '13 Unit from a bike shop out of state for a decent price. I'm new to mountain biking, been doing it consistently since spring of this year with my Gravity SS 29er. I have a few questions before I start skimming this thread:

Can the stock wheelset be setup tubeless? Is the rear hub SS specific? Anybody have problems with toe rub on the front tire? Drives me crazy on my Gravity G29


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## evosil98 (Sep 26, 2014)

Great bike, love the raw frame look. You can make the wheel set tubeless with some stans tape, stans sealant, and valves. There are other tape options which also works very well. 

I would have gotten the 2013 just for the raw look but went with the 2014 cause it already had tubeless ready wheels, reynolds 520 and a great price.


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

I ordered a new 2013 Kona from a bike shop in Ohio, picked it up from Fedex after work. Built it up, but gonna take it to the local shop to make sure everything is properly tightened and for brake adjustments.


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

I have a 18" 2012 Unit. I've never had an issue with my foot hitting the front wheel. I don't know if the Wheelset is different on the 2013 than the 2012 so I don't know about the rear hub.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

*My new/used 2013 Kona Unit*

Had a pieced together aluminum single speed for about a year and had an opportunity to get a 2013 Kona Unit and jumped all over it. The bike came with stock components, but I was able to swap out some parts from my old SS.

Parts swapped:
Shimano XT crankset w/BB
Shimano Deore brakes with Avid HS1 rotors
Crankbrothers Cobalt 2 flat bar
Crankbrothers Iodine 2 saddle
Specialized stem 50mm
ESI chunky grips
Converted rear wheel to tubeless

Took it out for a ride and had a blast! I thought the rigid fork was going to be really harsh, but it wasn't that bad. Now I have a dilemma ... I was originally planning on replacing the fork first but now I am not sure if I should replace the fork or the wheelset ... any thoughts?

Now for some pics:


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

Sexy! I'm a new owner so I can't comment on your dilemma, but how are you liking the tubeless wheel? I plan on running tubeless on both wheels


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

for me the choice was wheelset. I put a 2.4 up front and tubeless front and back. For me if my rides are 3 hours or less I don't miss the front suspension. When I get around the 4 hour mark I tend to wish I had the front suspension. 
I do think the wheels will give you the most bang for your buck. After about 4500 miles in northern Colorado I'm not planning on getting front suspension.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

jcm said:


> Sexy! I'm a new owner so I can't comment on your dilemma, but how are you liking the tubeless wheel? I plan on running tubeless on both wheels


Thanks! 
I run tubeless on all my bikes and really love it. More than the weight savings (I'm not really sure how much weight you save by going tubeless I have me doubts) the feel and flat prevention via Stans fluid is great.

I was able to convert the stock WTB i23 and tires to tubeless very easily. gorilla tape and rim strips over (I tried without the rim strips and had a hard time getting the tire to inflate) but with the rim strip I was able to set the bead quickly.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

bmf032 said:


> for me the choice was wheelset. I put a 2.4 up front and tubeless front and back. For me if my rides are 3 hours or less I don't miss the front suspension. When I get around the 4 hour mark I tend to wish I had the front suspension.
> I do think the wheels will give you the most bang for your buck. After about 4500 miles in northern Colorado I'm not planning on getting front suspension.


Thanks for the input. I think will be going the wheelset route.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

t3mplar, 

your Unit looks great. I was super stoked on getting a '13, but they were all out of stock over here (Sweden). Anyhoo, earlier this fall I placed an order for a 2015 instead which comes with tubeless ready tires. I guess that you recommend running tubeless? Will be my first MTB in many years, so guess I'll try it out as-is first but seems like the majority is running tubeless if possible.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

Jocke, Thanks, I think you will really enjoy the Unit and running tubeless. When setting up the tubeless, it's much easier using a air compressor to inflate the tires.

Just ordered a set of Easton EA70 wheelset. Can't wait till I put them on.


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

My new 2013 Kona Unit is ready for the trails! Stock wheels converted to tubeless no problem. Brakes are dialed, went for a test ride in the street.. nice. I can already feel the difference between the Unit and my Gravity G29 SS. :thumbsup:


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

jcm said:


> I can already feel the difference between the Unit and my Gravity G29 SS. :thumbsup:
> 
> View attachment 938680


I've love to hear the difference you're already feeling on the street.


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

I'm still new to single speed and mountain biking in general.. but I guess the main differences are geometry and gear ratio. I also didn't experience toe rub like I did on the G29

Edit- Also, I wouldn't think that weight would be much different but the Unit is noticeably lighter, even before converting to tubeless


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

t3mplar said:


> Jocke, Thanks, I think you will really enjoy the Unit and running tubeless. When setting up the tubeless, it's much easier using a air compressor to inflate the tires.


Thanks for the heads up! Appreciate it.


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

Went on the first ride today with my new 2013 Unit:

















Sidewall of rear tire was punctured pretty easily towards the end of my ride. Stopped by the bike shop and got Ardent EXO 2.4's installed


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

Great pics and great looking bike!


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## jcm (Mar 25, 2014)

t3mplar said:


> Great pics and great looking bike!


Thanks! I'm loving it so far. For any Unit owners, would this work better compared to the stock QR skewers? Front stock skewer didn't hold out too well during yesterdays ride 

Halo Hex Key Bolt-On Skewers - Outside Outfitters


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

I'm not sure if this question was asked, but ...

Is upgrading to a carbon rigid fork worth it?


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## Teetshorn (Jul 13, 2013)

^^^ yes, IMO. I rode the stock p2 for a few rides and found it very harsh. Purchased an black ops carbon fork which changed the ride significantly, along with the weigh of the front. This fork would give a bit on decents and buffer the ride. Once again upgraded from the black ops to a niner carbon fork, the best purchase I made. This fork changed the ride completely, very stiff but almost half the weight of the black ops. The niner fork on the unit makes this bike a climbing and cornering beast, one of the best upgrades that I did to the unit.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

^^^ Thanks, after much thought and googling, I think I will be purchasing a Niner carbon fork. I was deciding between getting a better steel rigid, carbon or Reba fork; I have come to like the feel of riding with a rigid fork, so the Reba is out (plus I have a FS stumpy) and the decision was between a steel fork (like the Salsa Cromoto) and a carbon. I really like the idea of the weight savings and if the carbon helps to dampen the ride, I think it's the better choice.


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

I rode my 2011 UNIT with a Carbon Niner fork for over a year. I loved the light weight of the fork and how easy I could pull the front end up over obstacles on technical climbs. 

Ultimately though I find the P2 to be a gentler more forgiving fork than I did the Carbon Niner.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*Yes go with the carbon fork*



t3mplar said:


> I'm not sure if this question was asked, but ...
> 
> Is upgrading to a carbon rigid fork worth it?


It was for me. I went with the Whiskey fork and Enve Riser bar and noticed a tremendous difference in how damp the front end got. It is awesome.


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## EVennincx (Dec 1, 2014)

My inner fashionista wants to know what the RAL colour code of the orange lettering on the raw steel version is. Anyone? 
That and my bike buddy has a "stopping crimes of fashion" badge tattoo on his chest so I better get the paint job on my new plastic fork right from the beginning or he will remember me of it pre, during and after the ride...
Even my LBS asked me "what kind of orange?". Where did we go wrong!? Hell, might as well go for a brittisch racing green specimen.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

I know it's not a 2013, but I've seen a bunch of 2014's so figured what the hell. Total MTB rookie, but man -- this bike is so much fun. And I do love the matte purple.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Short edit my son shot of us riding today. These are both 2014 Units. Krylon make them special.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

Posted on the Kona forum, but love this bike so much had to post it here also.

After going back and forth on the fork, I finally decided to go which a Fox suspension fork. Have to say I'm taking a lot less of a beating. So here is the final build for awhile:

Recently added:
- Fox Float 80mm fork
- Crankbrothers Cobalt 11 carbon bars
- Crankbrothers Cobalt 3 seatpost
- Shimano XT cranks
- Niner 32T single speed chainring
- Cane Creek 40 Series ZS44 headset
- Easton EA70XC wheelset

Now for some pics:


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

I've been tempted to try a suspension fork but love the weight and power of the carbon rigid whiskey fork. I love your 80mm set up T3mplar. Great looking bike.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

Thanks! I'm really enjoying the 80mm fork. Weight aside, I think I made the right decision to go with a squish in the front. Where I ride a lot of the trails are heavily washboarded out and the suspension in the front really helps to make the rides more enjoyable.


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

I cannot find much info on this but wanted a bit of help here. I bought a 2011 unit to test out 29'' and have a dedicated singlespeed, a side product was that (coming from an s-works 26'' stumpy FSR) how well it went downhill! (smoother surfaces obviously)

I seem to remember that the 2011 has a 69' slacker headtube than the newer ones, at 70'. Anyone upgraded and noticed the difference? anyone any thoughts on what the difference will do to the fly-by-wire handling?

the seat tube angle on post 2011 looks different as well, 74' on the 2011, which with frames being an inch higher/lower (2011 was 16'', 18'' and 20'', post are 17'', 19''etc) makes getting a newer version a difficult choice...

especially as I have noticed that the rajin has the same geometry as the 2011 unit, but with even shorter chainstays


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## Flyin_W (Jun 17, 2007)

IIRC The 2011 has a 72 degree HA. (My 2010 is 73) If the $ is right just buy it, don't sweat the details, and ride the snot out of it.

...sent by dixie cup/string


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

cborrman said:


> I cannot find much info on this but wanted a bit of help here. I bought a 2011 unit to test out 29'' and have a dedicated singlespeed, a side product was that (coming from an s-works 26'' stumpy FSR) how well it went downhill! (smoother surfaces obviously)
> 
> I seem to remember that the 2011 has a 69' slacker headtube than the newer ones, at 70'. Anyone upgraded and noticed the difference? anyone any thoughts on what the difference will do to the fly-by-wire handling?
> 
> ...


Here's the 2012 geo, which is the same as the 2011. You might be off on that HTA angle. I think it's always been 70. The geo is pretty spot on for XC if you ask me. I found it pretty capable going down with the big wheels. That said, a little more slackness makes things a little more fun on the downs, so I've gone and ordered myself a new Banshee Paradox. I'm gonna keep this frame though, and maybe convert it to a 27+ down the road...

I think if you have a 2011 there aren't many good reasons for getting the new one, unless you're desperate to install a fork with a tapered steer tube.

KONAWORLD


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## MMcG (Jul 7, 2003)

cborrman said:


> I cannot find much info on this but wanted a bit of help here. I bought a 2011 unit to test out 29'' and have a dedicated singlespeed, a side product was that (coming from an s-works 26'' stumpy FSR) how well it went downhill! (smoother surfaces obviously)
> 
> I seem to remember that the 2011 has a 69' slacker headtube than the newer ones, at 70'. Anyone upgraded and noticed the difference? anyone any thoughts on what the difference will do to the fly-by-wire handling?
> 
> ...


2011 16" Frames were 68 degrees, and the rest were 70 degree ht angles. I know because I had a 16"


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

Here are the geometry specs for the 2011 Kona Unit, I had saved a copy since I own that year UNIT.






​


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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

randyharris said:


> Here are the geometry specs for the 2011 Kona Unit, I had saved a copy since I own that year UNIT.
> 
> View attachment 962061​


Thanks both. Any views on what handling difference will be with newer ones?


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I have wanted to try thsee for a long time. Couldn't resist the deal on chain love.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

randyharris said:


> Here are the geometry specs for the 2011 Kona Unit, I had saved a copy since I own that year UNIT.


Sweet.

Just measured my 2011 Unit head tube angle and matches the 20" 71° nicely.

Chart saved, thanks.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

And sticking a pair of 100mm Manitou Marvel's on raised the BB 15mm and slackened the HTA off to 69°.


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## danicrem (Jan 25, 2015)

Hello, here some pictures about my new Kona Unit 2015 build. I write from Italy, I was very inspired by this and other thread so I hope to do the right thing posting this images. At the moment I only have pics from my smartphone, I hope to do best in the future.












Size 19', SMP saddle, Salsa Cowbell 2 drop bar, xt cranks, rear dr Shimano 105, front dr Xt. Shimano 105 shifters. Chinese carbon seat post, Cinelli Ivory bar tape. I'm lookin for a 40mm tire (as WTB nano 40C) but, at the moment, in Italy these kind of tires are not dealed. So, STR Crest and Specialized Fast Track. Avid BB7 disc brakes. Just rode 60km...very happy about speed on track and gravel. More comfortable then a CX bike. No complain about weight but the tires (or about rolling resistance on pavement).
I hope to post as soon as possible other, better, pics.
Greatings from Italy!!!!:thumbsup: Daniele


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Beautiful bike I love the purple. Almost, almost, bought the frameset.


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

I'm considering to buy a 2015 Unit frame and build a hardtail for long-day rides. So I would like to know how comfortable Kona is comparing to some other steel frames.

How does Unit frame feel on bumpy roads? Is it more like a stiff trail frame, or can it be comfortable enough for travelling along those awful dirt roads?

Thanks in advance!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I did a 77km, 5:30hr, 1,500m climbing ride on mine and wouldn't have traded it for my Blur XC or Stumpy HT.
The longer the ride, the more I like front suspension though.


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## wjphillips (Oct 13, 2008)

Ya, I just did a 100km ride and 2000m of climbing on rigid SS 29er. My wrists were toast after that.

I need a higher volume tire up front and carbon bars & seatpost next time.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I like rigid, but only if the track doesn't have anything in it named "Boulder Valley" or anything similar...

Biceps getting shaken off your arms is not the greatest feeling.


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

not a 2013 but the green from 2011 was pretty nice too...


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## mramon (Sep 20, 2013)

jmctav23 said:


> not a 2013 but the green from 2011 was pretty nice too...


The green is one of the most beautiful kona frame.


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## bmf032 (Sep 8, 2010)

In 2012 a buddy let me borrow his 2011 Kona Unit. One week later I bought my 2012 Kona Unit. I love the green!


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## t_surfer (Jun 28, 2013)

My 19" after the ride on the weekend. Main upgrades so far are Reba 100mm forks and Flow rims on Hope hubs. Loving the ride every time!


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## gouacats (Sep 22, 2007)

Bought a 2014 today on clearance to replace my 26er KHS Solo One...the shop it setting it up tubeless and I pick it up tomorrow. Pics to come on Sunday after its maiden voyage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

gouacats said:


> Bought a 2014 today on clearance to replace my 26er KHS Solo One...the shop it setting it up tubeless and I pick it up tomorrow. Pics to come on Sunday after its maiden voyage.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got my 2014 in Dec for a great price too. I'll wager you will LOVE the bike.

Plus, I get tons of compliments on the finish and look of it--the blue is pretty sexy.


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## gouacats (Sep 22, 2007)

Kona Unit = 

As promised, a couple photos from the maiden voyage. Bone stock, with the exception of setting up the ardent's tubeless. I'm going to swap a few parts over from my old SS including the grips (Oury lock-ons), handlebars (Bontrager Crivitz from my Sawyer), pedals (Wellgo MG-1) and saddle (Brooks Pro). Rides great!

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gouacats (Sep 22, 2007)

So I swapped out the parts and went for another ride this afternoon. The alt bars feel at home on the bike!

Here it is in its natural habitat (as well as the rattler I came across this afternoon).


























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

gouacats said:


> So I swapped out the parts and went for another ride this afternoon. The alt bars feel at home on the bike!


What bars are they? Sweep?


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## gouacats (Sep 22, 2007)

OFFcourse said:


> What bars are they? Sweep?


They are the Bontrager Crivitz bars with a 25-degree sweep. They came stock on the Trek Sawyer when it was available in 2011/2012.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Finished building mine up yesterday, smacked her around today - she loved it!









Manitou Marvel Pro, Light-Bicycle 35mm on Hopes, Raceface Turbine Cinch, Easton EC70, Shimano XT's


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## dgroberts (Jan 29, 2013)

Looking very cool. How much travel on the fork?


OFFcourse said:


> Finished building mine up yesterday, smacked her around today - she loved it!
> 
> View attachment 982707
> 
> ...


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

120mm its internally adjustable to 100mm but I think I'll run it as is till summer


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I want to get over there and do the Karapoti Classic on my Unit.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

Your keen, I was thinking about doing it SS next year did it on my fatbike this year.


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## adiostry2312 (Apr 29, 2015)

*KOna unit 2012*

This is my KOna Unit 2012 in awesome orange color


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## adiostry2312 (Apr 29, 2015)

With Fox looks pretty amazing too


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## Aaron Bleakley (Apr 30, 2015)

Before: My near stock 2015 with some Token Alloy wheels whilst winning a local race.









Now: The full setup for MTB SS is

Stock Frame/fork 19"
XX1 Cranks
Easton Ea70 Bar
Random 100mm stem
XX World up brakes
Giant Carbon Wheels (1400gr)
Candy 2
Specialized S-works Seatpost (Needs to be color matched)
Ikon 2.25

9.9kgs

Soon to have MRP (White bros) rigid fork 









SSCX setup

XX1 cranks 34x16 
Token Alloy wheels 
TRP hybrid Discs 
Sram Red levers (with their insides still intact in case I want gears)
10.2kgs

Geared MTB setup

As SS but with full XX1 gruppo 10.5 kgs (pic coming soon)


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## Aaron89 (May 4, 2015)

Hi All

I'm a proud owner of a 2013 unit but relatively new to the MTB world so am hoping for some advice.

As I'm becoming a bit more confident and faster on trails I'm looking to replace my stock P2 with a Reba fork. I know there has been a lot of discussion here on this topic which has really helped me gain a bit of understanding on what can be a minefield area for a newbie.

I plan to upgrade my front wheel and hub in the process so I will be buying the 15mm axle Reba and I feel 100mm of travel is a sensible bet.

My question is whether it is a better idea to go tapered or straight 1 1/8th?

I understand I would need a new bottom headset cup if I were to go tapered, like the Cane Creek EC44/40 mentioned on this thread. I also understand that tapered is the new standard, so would this be a more sensible investment?

I can buy both the straight and tapered 2015 Reba, but when you include the cost of the new cup, the tapered option will cost a good £70 more, so I want to make the right decision.

Are there any benefits with the tapered on the 2013 Unit within this kind of set up? Or should I just go with the 1 1/8th option (I'm assuming I wouldn't need to purchase anything else to fit a straight steerer?).


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

If you're going for the stronger axle it make sense to go for the stronger steerer too.
I would love to beef up my manitou marvel experts from 1 1/8 and 9mm qr to tapered and 15mm but with my existing wheels and 2011 frame, is not going to happen.


----------



## t_surfer (Jun 28, 2013)

Aaron89 said:


> Hi All
> 
> I'm a proud owner of a 2013 unit but relatively new to the MTB world so am hoping for some advice.
> 
> ...


I run my 2013 Unit with a reba, tapered and 15mm axle. solid all the way. do it.


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## escocia (Nov 14, 2010)

Some pics of my Kone Unit 2011 chromed:


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## Glynn Sluder (Jun 25, 2011)

Oh, that is cool.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Great looking pics, thanks for posting em!

I went to the local shop to test ride one... but am wondering if I should wait until 2016 to see if they taper the head tube. But the purple looks so sweet on the website..hmm.


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## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

isis07734 said:


> Great looking pics, thanks for posting em!
> 
> I went to the local shop to test ride one... but am wondering if I should wait until 2016 to see if they taper the head tube. But the purple looks so sweet on the website..hmm.


If waiting isn't an issue for you, I would wait for the 2016 release then look to buy a 2015 at a discount. I did this very thing and saved closed to $300 off of MSRP. Too each their own though.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Good point! Didn't even think go that


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

NordieBoy said:


> And sticking a pair of 100mm Manitou Marvel's on raised the BB 15mm and slackened the HTA off to 69°.


That 1 degree really made a difference for me. I went back to a rigid fork (salasa cromoto, which is pretty nice) after using a 100m fox fork, and I've found the bike to be quite a bit more endo-inducing on steeper descents. Didn't really think it would matter much, but it felt substantial. I'm building up a slacker hardtail and gotta be honest, I can't wait for front squish, haha. Don't get me wrong, though, still dig this frame, and will be keeping it for years and builds to come.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Chrome!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

A chrome, single speed, rigid Unit. That would be very cool.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jcitizen1 said:


> That 1 degree really made a difference for me. I went back to a rigid fork (salasa cromoto, which is pretty nice) after using a 100m fox fork, and I've found the bike to be quite a bit more endo-inducing on steeper descents. Didn't really think it would matter much, but it felt substantial.


Yep. I don't think I could go back to rigid on the Unit after the 100mm squishies. I've got a rigid 26"bike for the "pure" experience and the Unit for the longer, more "epic" rides.
My back, wrists, arms and kidneys thank me.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

MikeAK said:


> If waiting isn't an issue for you, I would wait for the 2016 release then look to buy a 2015 at a discount. I did this very thing and saved closed to $300 off of MSRP. Too each their own though.


+1 I bought my 2014 after the 2015 was available and got a killer deal.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

^ Totally depends on where you live though. Located in Sweden, this doesn't seem to happen at all since there's only a certain number of Units shipped to EU/Sweden. Living in US, I can imagine there's quite a deal to be had!

With that said, I do love my purple '15. Even with the brake alignment issues I have.


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## Mad Dingo (Feb 9, 2006)

Has anyone tried converting their Unit to a Gates belt drive system? I wonder what the max sprocket you could put on that is.


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## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

jocke said:


> ^ Totally depends on where you live though. Located in Sweden, this doesn't seem to happen at all since there's only a certain number of Units shipped to EU/Sweden. Living in US, I can imagine there's quite a deal to be had!
> 
> With that said, I do love my purple '15. Even with the brake alignment issues I have.


You definitely run the risk of not finding stock... or not finding your size. I think it's worth the risk though. If you strike out on a discounted 2015 you can always just buy the 2016. Since 2013 they've essentially been the same bike with different paint jobs. Really no risk either way.


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## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

Mad Dingo said:


> Has anyone tried converting their Unit to a Gates belt drive system? I wonder what the max sprocket you could put on that is.


No split in the rear triangle to place a belt.

Sent from my hammock


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## Paul.C (Aug 13, 2011)

isis07734 said:


> Great looking pics, thanks for posting em!
> 
> I went to the local shop to test ride one... but am wondering if I should wait until 2016 to see if they taper the head tube. But the purple looks so sweet on the website..hmm.


The head tube is a 44mm so you can run a tapered or straight steerer tube fork. Just have to get the proper headset.

Sent from my hammock


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

I know, but it would be cool to have a real tapered HT, like the Honzo.


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## Mad Dingo (Feb 9, 2006)

Paul.C said:


> No split in the rear triangle to place a belt.
> 
> Sent from my hammock


I meant actually splitting the frame at the seat stay and welding on a coupler.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Jocke, what's up with your brakes? Something I should look out for?

Thanks in advance


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Those who mentioned waiting for 2016s before checking for a 2015 on clearance price, around what time of the year does that happen?


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## MikeAK (Jul 15, 2011)

newagebiker said:


> Those who mentioned waiting for 2016s before checking for a 2015 on clearance price, around what time of the year does that happen?


I think it would vary from shop to shop. When I bought my Unit(2012) it was around end of July, maybe first week into August. The newest Unit was just starting to roll out. I got lucky because the owner wanted to move it. In my country the 2012 MSRP was $999.99, I got it for $739.00. Was totally worth it for me. Again though, every shop will be different and your relationship with the owner will definitely have an effect on the price.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Has anybody tried running 27.5+ on their unit?


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I think you may be able to get a trailblazer 2.8 in there but that would give you zero clearance (aka 1-2mm each side) so they are gonna rub on every flex. I'm not sure if some of the older models have more clearance than the current. 
Pretty much a no IMO


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I'd try it but don't have any 27.5+ wheels around...

Wish I did though...


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## Bart_74 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok... My rear formula hub is on its way out. There's play in the free hub body (internal bearings) have searched usual places, Chainreaction, Wiggle, LBS no joy on finding replacement free hub body - anyone got any suggestions? Many thanks


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## Raumfahrer Rolf (Apr 18, 2007)

OFFcourse said:


> I think you may be able to get a trailblazer 2.8 in there but that would give you zero clearance (aka 1-2mm each side) so they are gonna rub on every flex. I'm not sure if some of the older models have more clearance than the current.
> Pretty much a no IMO


I'd bet you could fit a Trailblazer 2.8 on a 35 mm rim in the back of a Kona Unit. The Trailblazer is more tall than wide. Check out this table:









from this thread in the 27.5+/29+ forum.

I've got an '08 Kona Unit and I'm debating between selling it to get a Trek Stache 5 and setting it up 29+F and 27.5+R.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Just ordered a stock 2015 deep purple unit with my LBS! I actually bought a 2015 soma juice frame last month but I had to sell it due to an emergency  Now that my buddy is riding it, I can't bring myself to build the same bike that someone I ride with constantly has, haha.

I have been daydreaming about this unit. It is such an awesome build for the price AND being reynolds 520, just wow! Absolutely love the purple. My girlfriend is jealous. She juggling weather to buy an ss 29er or a fatty. Trying to convince her to get the fatty since we ride the same size bike


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> Just ordered a stock 2015 deep purple unit with my LBS! I actually bought a 2015 soma juice frame last month but I had to sell it due to an emergency  Now that my buddy is riding it, I can't bring myself to build the same bike that someone I ride with constantly has, haha.
> 
> I have been daydreaming about this unit. It is such an awesome build for the price AND being reynolds 520, just wow! Absolutely love the purple. My girlfriend is jealous. She juggling weather to buy an ss 29er or a fatty. Trying to convince her to get the fatty since we ride the same size bike


congrats! the 15' purple is awesome! i had a 13' and loved it. i may order a 15' this week


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

I wonder what the 2016 will look like, anyone hear anything yet?

And Kik, i'd love to see some pics of that purple if you get a chance..


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Will do. Arrives next Monday! Too long! 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

isis07734 said:


> I wonder what the 2016 will look like, anyone hear anything yet?


let me put it this way, grab a 15' while you can


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

WHAT DO YOU KNOW?! 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> WHAT DO YOU KNOW?!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


be patient my friend


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

No more units? That's such a tried and true cult classic. Why would they do that. Is the '16 gonna be ugly as sin or go back to 4130 or something. Increase I. Price with better spec. I don't KNOW!!! 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> No more units? That's such a tried and true cult classic. Why would they do that.


don't be silly. unit ain't going away.



> Is the '16 gonna be ugly as sin or go back to 4130 or something. Increase I. Price with better spec. I don't KNOW!!!


it isn't gonna be ti, alu, plastic, or scandium. or purple


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

So carbon and steel options with the steel being ugly so everyone will want to buy the sleek and sexy carbon? Lol 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> So carbon and steel options with the steel being ugly so everyone will want to buy the sleek and sexy carbon? Lol
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


a plastic unit would be a travesty.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Haha oh I see what you did there. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

REALLY considering ordering a 15' this week


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

Well I finally bought a Niner carbon fork for my 2013 Unit! Too bad it's boxed up and in my HHG shipment from Hawaii to Maryland...

But it will be waiting for me when I get there! Makes the anticipation even greater to get there!


Edit: I wonder how the carbon fork will feel with the Thomson Ti bars?


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

I too am considering ordering a Purple 2015... I put my current ride on CL, if someone bites I just may...

Going to the UP in 5 days for a week , by the time I get back the new model will be shown. 

Think it'll just be a color change? Maybe tapered HT? Price increase?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

purple.......


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

I considered buying the frame and swapping parts because it was purple!


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

So it prob won't be: green, white, orange, grey, blue, or purple. Sure hope it won't be red..


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

isis07734 said:


> So it prob won't be: green, white, orange, grey, blue, or purple. Sure hope it won't be red..


Or natural...


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Boom!




























Went on the maiden voyage yesterday. Super fun bike. 29ers are definitely a strange feel but I felt like this thing rolled forever. I'm coming from a 140mm slack hardtail to this so I felt crazy stretched out! I can get used to this though 

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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Also, I need to remove that stupid bashguard! 


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## iceboxsteve (Feb 22, 2012)

newmarketrog said:


> congrats! the 15' purple is awesome! i had a 13' and loved it. i may order a 15' this week


Rog can't keep away from the SS...


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

iceboxsteve said:


> Rog can't keep away from the SS...


ha i know. such a perfect bike for so lil money. haven't ordered it yet, but i'm leaning


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## stephenmarklay (Jul 19, 2015)

Size Matters so I need help. I am about 5’ 11.759999” feet tall with a 33.7500001 inseam.
I know that a 19” is the right sized unit but I have an oppotunity to get a 20” 2013 unit.

I know that it is borderline too large. However, when I compare the current 2015 19" unit to the 2013 20” there are more similarities than differences. The biggest difference I see with the 20 is a but taller standover. That should not be that big of deal.

It looks like the 2013 19” is a smaller bike than a 2015 19” and may the 2013 20” would be fine.

Thoughts for a newbie?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

stephenmarklay said:


> Size Matters so I need help. I am about 5' 11.759999" feet tall with a 33.7500001 inseam.
> I know that a 19" is the right sized unit but I have an oppotunity to get a 20" 2013 unit.
> 
> I know that it is borderline too large. However, when I compare the current 2015 19" unit to the 2013 20" there are more similarities than differences. The biggest difference I see with the 20 is a but taller standover. That should not be that big of deal.
> ...


we're about the same height. i had a 13' 19". perfect fit. go 19".


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I didn't know they made a 13 - 19" and 20" I do know the older units felt a little longer. I'm 5'10 and opted for a 19" unit because of my long inseam. On a 17" my seat post would be out past the max safety line. My 15' 19" actually feels kind of long with the stock 70mm stem. It's alllllmost perfect. I can either cut bars or install 60mm to get that extra length. My saddle could scoot forward a tad but I don't like it when it's in the cusp of the max line. So I will work in the front end first. As is, feeling long, it's still a wonderful bike and an absolute blast to ride. I have straps PR'ing every ride. Not that that matters but it's fun challenging yourself 

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## stephenmarklay (Jul 19, 2015)

Thanks you guys. A new twist is that they just put out the numbers on the 2016. They really reworked it and for me its a no go. They went to a 74 degree seat tube angle which just makes it impossible to get a good position. They went a little slacker on the head tube too which is the trendy thing to do.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Wow, so glad I bought the purple when I did last week. This is definitely not my cup of tea









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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Significantly nicer looking in my opinion









Also o would hate a 69degree ht rigid ss

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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I like it.
1° steeper on the seat tube isn't any concern and with my 100mm Manitou, I'm running 69° anyway.
I'd swap my 2011 frame for a 2015 no worries.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Yeah, I'm with you kikoraa. Apart from brakes I'm super happy with my 2015. New paint jobs ain't my cuppa either. Doesn't seem to be much of a difference, as far as my newbie eyes can see.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

There's definitely a slacker geo. honestly I love bb7's. I had my lbs swap the fr5 with sd7 levers and now my bb7 brake better than my shimano deore hyrdros. 


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

Ha! Can't stand the set of BB7's that came installed on mine. Deore hydros will be installed next week!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

There's a trick to dialing them. Also they're not worth a damn with anything other than the speed dial 7 levers which is why I had them swapped immediately. 


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

I've tried all the tutorials I could find. Still no bueno. But I won't clog up this thread stuff I've already posted elsewhere about. If they work for you, good stuff!


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I'm not in love with the new paint, but the updated geo for 2016 seems better to me. At least. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the head angle is 69 whereas I think it was 70 before, and the top tube is a bit longer. BTW @stephenmarkl I have a 19 and am a hair under 6 feet and was very comfortable on a 19. That said, I just bought a new bike with about cm or longer top tube and am running it with a shorter stem and loving it.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

The 70 deg is more enticing to me since I have a 68deg 140mm hardtail the purple is sooo much fun. That 16' color is hideous.

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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

Sweet deal on 2015's now. Still undecided on size. 19" will be on the smaller size, but 21" will be on the larger size. Also my old 26er had 590mm ETT but Unit's 19" has 622mm ETT and the old one I had felt a bit small, so I'm guessing Unit 19" will feel just right?


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## stephenmarklay (Jul 19, 2015)

Thank you!


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## stephenmarklay (Jul 19, 2015)

Where are you seeing the good deals on 2015’s? Thanks!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I think he means the LBS typically discounts the previous years models when the current fiscal year models are released. 


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

kikoraa said:


> I think he means the LBS typically discounts the previous years models when the current fiscal year models are released.


Yes. That.

Sorry I was a bit unclear.

Damn that size though!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> I think he means the LBS typically discounts the previous years models when the current fiscal year models are released.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wrong. Kona is discounting remaining 15' models off of the regular dealer wholsale cost level. Even if you special order one thru your lbs, you should be able to save about 15%.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

That's pretty much what I said... I think 99% of manu discount previous year models. I just assumed we were going through our LBS since we're all good people support local businesses. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

And for anyone complaining about the performance of the fr5 lever with the bb7 should focus a bit more on riding faster and less on braking. Fr5's are perfect for bb7. Been running that combo for 12 years on all bikes and have won many races on them.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Damn dude, someone's hissy this morning. since we're arguing about nothing. SD7 levers are far superior than fr5s and can actually allow for better modulation and control. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> Damn dude, someone's hissy this morning. since we're arguing about nothing. SD7 levers are far superior than fr5s and can actually allow for better modulation and control.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not hissy at all. I've used the sd7's. No noteworthy difference.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I have fr5 and sd7. I wouldn't say no noteworthy difference really considering there's a whole nother feature of adjustability on the sd7. The fr5 is a great lever. It stops in a dime. With the sd7 you can use the red modulation knob to control the fulcrum where the cable is pulled. Some people like a more spongy feel some people like a hard lock up. You can achieve that with the sd7 without having to tinker with cable tension. All of these things differences you can note. It's really a convenience but I've dialed mine in to be better feeling than my deores. My fr5s still stop like no other but I like being able to have a little more customization. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

I've just always set up the brakes the way they should be and kept the cable tension nice at the caliper. Different strokes


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*bb7*

when i got my unit 2013 i planned to put on avid juicy 5 i had lying around.
i never did so.
the bb7 with the original fr5 levers do the job. actually better that
the juicy 5 and the elixir i have on another bike.
simple maintenance, nice to adjust both sides separately, 2400 km already with first set of pads.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

texasnavy05 said:


> 19 inch frame
> 
> also, ive heard alot of good stuff about the bb7's but i honestly feel like they aren't very powerful at all. I'm thinking about getting some organic pads to try and help, but I may just get some slx and be done with it. ideas?


get the SLX, I've ran Deore, SLX, XT's and BB7's would take deore over BB7's TBH.


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> when i got my unit 2013 i planned to put on avid juicy 5 i had lying around.
> i never did so.
> the bb7 with the original fr5 levers do the job. actually better that
> the juicy 5 and the elixir i have on another bike.
> simple maintenance, nice to adjust both sides separately, 2400 km already with first set of pads.


I have a similar experience, just picked up a Trek Superfly SS which has some Shimano Deore M365 hydraulic brakes, the 5 year old BB7's on my 2011 UNIT work noticeably better in my opinion.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

OFFcourse said:


> get the SLX, I've ran Deore, SLX, XT's and BB7's would take deore over BB7's TBH.


I'm in this camp too. Was back on the BB7s for the first half of the season, but now that my new bike is in I'm on SLX and there's really no comparison in my mind. Best brakes I've had. Even at their best BB7 just doesn't have the power or modulation of new Shimano brakes. BB7s are best on bikes that see less riding cause they never need to be bled and they're also less to worry about if you're riding in super cold weather. Otherwise, Shimano hydraulic all the way.


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

What kind of system is this? HG spline? Old style freewheel? Other?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

It's a normal free hub body. It just has thick spacers. 


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

So it's using the regular spline tool for every other geared Shimano system? 

I saw a pic earlier in this thread with a threaded lockring, requiring lockring spanner, but this 2015 pic shows another system.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

The silver disc the qr goes through is the lockring. Takes a normal splined lockring remover tool and it all comes off just like a cassette. 


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

Massively great info there! Thanks alot! I hate threaded lockrings, so I had my hopes up for the splined lockring system it looked like.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone know what this bike weighs stock? I plan to get new wheels because the wtb st i23 are atrociously heavy! Installing and xt crankset today and taking off the bash guard. Was curious of the quality of the dropouts also. 


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone know what this bike weighs stock? I plan to get new wheels because the wtb st i23 are atrociously heavy! Installing and xt crankset today and taking off the bash guard. Was curious of the quality of the dropouts also.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe it weighs 12,5 kg. I'm not 100% sure though.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

My 2014 was right about there stock I think, 27-28 lbs. I've since ADDED weight with a sus fork and bigger tire upfront
New wheels for me as soon as budget allows….


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone know what this bike weighs stock? I plan to get new wheels because the wtb st i23 are atrociously heavy! Installing and xt crankset today and taking off the bash guard. Was curious of the quality of the dropouts also.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Heavy, but bloody tough. I weigh 105kg, used to hammer mine, both wheels have remained (almost) perfectly true. Pretty good for 29".


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I upgraded my 2011 wheels to the 2014 i23's (from 19-23mm internal) and couldn't be happier (unless someone gave me some carbon fat rims).

My 26" race wheels are 1350g the pair and I still don't mind the weight of the i23's.
If I tried lighter wheels on the Unit however, I'd hate the old ones of course.


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

I have a 17" 2014. I weighed it before I changed anything, and on my scale it was 27 lbs. 7 oz.(that includes the pedals that came on it). No idea how accurate my scale is, but that sounds about right.


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

I don't think 12-13kg for a MTB is heavy at all. Yeah, they come lighter, but surely not at the Unit's price!


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

This should properly go without saying, so please bear with me 

But is the chainline on an Unit perfect inline front/rear? 

Also, what is the chainline?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Geralt said:


> I have a 17" 2014. I weighed it before I changed anything, and on my scale it was 27 lbs. 7 oz.(that includes the pedals that came on it). No idea how accurate my scale is, but that sounds about right.


that's accurate. weighed a 14' 19" that i have in stock yesterday. 27 lbs 9 oz.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Geralt said:


> I have a 17" 2014. I weighed it before I changed anything, and on my scale it was 27 lbs. 7 oz.(that includes the pedals that came on it). No idea how accurate my scale is, but that sounds about right.


Yep my 2014 is also 17"--that sounds dead-on to me(at least according to my bathroom scale. It's at 29 lbs now with a Recon Gold fork and a 2.4 up in the front. My other mods(grips, pedals, 20t cog) I don't THINK added any weight.
I've been kind of fretting over the weight of this bike since I put that fork on, but I forget about it once I'm actually riding!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

tuxxdk said:


> But is the chainline on an Unit perfect inline front/rear?


yes



> Also, what is the chainline?


straight


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

newmarketrog said:


> straight


Haha 

52mm?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Is the bb shell 73mm? 


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

So I guess it's my fault for not going over the bike when it arrived. I had some awkward noises coming from the Bb but left it as I had an xt crankset I was waiting to install. When I went to remove the megaexo, one cup was completely seized. I had to mallet the tool, gouging the splines, eventually catching, in order to spin it off. Absolutely no grease from the factory.









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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

What do you mean by "mallet" the tool? You most certainly stove that thing up real good.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Use a mallet to hammer the tool in the direction of I threading the bb cup. Oh it's destroyed. Installed xt and good to go. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> Use a mallet to hammer the tool in the direction of I threading the bb cup. Oh it's destroyed. Installed xt and good to go.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Next time try a leverage bar of some sort that you can slide over the handle of the tool's arm so that you can get way more leverage. Hammering is never a good idea, especially in this case.


----------



## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Does anyone know what size seatpost the 15 takes? I can't seem to find the info anywhere. 


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

kikoraa said:


> Does anyone know what size seatpost the 15 takes? I can't seem to find the info anywhere.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


27.2


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

kikoraa said:


> So I guess it's my fault for not going over the bike when it arrived. I had some awkward noises coming from the Bb but left it as I had an xt crankset I was waiting to install. When I went to remove the megaexo, one cup was completely seized. I had to mallet the tool, gouging the splines, eventually catching, in order to spin it off. Absolutely no grease from the factory.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My cup looks exactly like that also. Needed to disassemble it today, only to realize some moron used some sort of thread-glue. Absolutely unable to get it loose, until I took the big wise-grips and applied brute-force. Of course the bearing was destroyed by then. The cup just slipped in my Shimano tool, so had to apply force with the wise-grips.

The threads was greased though, but heavily fastened and with locktite. I could have strangled the guy responsible. It was fastened with way more than the 40Nm stated.

Anyhow, scavenged my girlfriends MTB (hope she doesn't find out...) and it's running again with Shimano bearings until I get a hold of a new set.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

i had these stuck bb too. you guys need to attach the tool to the shell. that's the advice i got from the local shop where i bought the tool. i did this with a rear axle quick release and some spacers. or you can do it as someone described in another thread here: http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/homemade-tool-keep-bb-cuptool-fixed-658693.html
after my tool was attached to the cup i still couldn't open it until i got on the bike and literally hopped with all my weight on the wrench. but finally it opend without damage to the cup or frame.


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## Keyaroxy (Jul 14, 2004)

I'm looking for a 2013 (19") frame. If anyones interested - please pm me. Thanks


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## TampaDave (Mar 20, 2015)

There's gotta be a better way of loosening up those fittings. You really don't want to bung up your bb threads.

Anybody tried heat or cold? Ie, using a heat gun on the shell, or blasting the cups with a CO2 cartridge?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I have a question for anyone who's installed a carbon fork. I see the kona p2 has an a-c of 465 but are any of you running a different a-c on your aftermarket forks? If so, how does it feel and any issues with the bb being too hi/lo?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

kikoraa said:


> I have a question for anyone who's installed a carbon fork. I see the kona p2 has an a-c of 465 but are any of you running a different a-c on your aftermarket forks? If so, how does it feel and any issues with the bb being too hi/lo?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a DT Swiss 470mm carbon fork. No issues at all.... Just one advice: don't sell the steel fork. Sometimes I miss it. Carbon is so unbelievably harsh 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Cif said:


> I have a DT Swiss 470mm carbon fork. No issues at all.... Just one advice: don't sell the steel fork. Sometimes I miss it. Carbon is so unbelievably harsh
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


THAT carbon fork may be harsh. Others may not be.
Same with steel...


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## Sandrenseren (Dec 29, 2011)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> after my tool was attached to the cup i still couldn't open it until i got on the bike and literally hopped with all my weight on the wrench. but finally it opend without damage to the cup or frame.


Rather than hopping on your wrench I suggest securing the tool in a vice and rotating the frame instead - gives a lot more leverage, just remember to turn the correct way..


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

a cheater bar is the easiest and best way to gain more leverage without risking damage to anything. just use a piece of pipe.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Hey guys I'm curious and don't have anything to really give me an idea. Is the stock wtb i23 st wheel an SS specific freehub body? Like, one of the shorter freehubs? My unit is the 2015 purple. 


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Normal freehub on my one.
I've got a Stan's 3.30 SS one to replace it when it dies.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

You have the purple '15?


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

kikoraa said:


> You have the purple '15?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do yes.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

And your rear wheel fits a standard cassette? 


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

kikoraa said:


> And your rear wheel fits a standard cassette?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I've got an '11 with the wheels from a '15.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Nvm


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

Anyone stuffed a 27+ tire in a UNIT yet, ideally a 2011?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone know what size seat clamp is on here? 30? 


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## Geralt (Jul 11, 2012)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone know what size seat clamp is on here? 30?


30.0 is what's on my 2014.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

jcitizen1 said:


> Anyone stuffed a 27+ tire in a UNIT yet, ideally a 2011?


no, but i put a 4.0 on my 2011 and it ruined it. it changed the handling characteristics dramatically. the front was so heavy and slow. rolling resistance was too high. it killed the quick steering that i loved so much.

it was a fun experiment but the bike is so good the way it is that it doesn't need changing.

i'm sure a 27+ would have a much less dramatic effect. more grip and cush without the added weight. i've thought about it. i may just steal the front wheel off a friends bike and give it a try.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Put some 15mm rise 720mm Bontrager Rhythm Pro's on the Unit to try on the weekend.

Normally use a 710mm alloy flat bar with bar ends and a dropped 100mm stem (about 70mm seat to bar drop).

Tried the carbon bars with a 70mm stem and no bar ends.
Climbing was awful. Not enough reach to get good balance and traction.

Going to try again with the 100mm stem flipped to the riser position (35mm drop).

2.4 Ardent on the front goes well though.


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## t_surfer (Jun 28, 2013)

Respect to Wim Verheyen for placing 25th overall at the 2015 Mongolia Bike Challenge on a fully rigid 2013 KONA UNIT!!!

https://marathonmtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/20150824-_PAO5203.jpg

https://www.mongoliabikechallenge.com/pdf/class/72_stage_5_overall.pdf


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Holy seatpost batman! 


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

It's not a P2 on that bad boy though


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

kikoraa said:


> Holy seatpost batman!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks like a medium frame too.
Kulhavy style.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

jcitizen1 said:


> Anyone stuffed a 27+ tire in a UNIT yet


Here's another curious plusser. 27.5+ in the rear: threat or possibility? I've heard the yoke could come in the way, but no-one has confirmed what fits and what doesn't.


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## spatterer (Dec 2, 2010)

t_surfer said:


> Respect to Wim Verheyen for placing 25th overall at the 2015 Mongolia Bike Challenge on a fully rigid 2013 KONA UNIT!!!
> 
> https://marathonmtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/20150824-_PAO5203.jpg
> 
> https://www.mongoliabikechallenge.com/pdf/class/72_stage_5_overall.pdf


Thanks! It was a tough ride but definitely worth it. Great experience!!

btw It's a 2013 Unit, L, with other wheels (Hope Evo II/BOR388-rim) and china-carbon fork. No issues!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Hmmm... Which fork exactly? Link or pm link? Always so sketched out by those but wouldn't mind trying one you out through the paces 


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

Does anyone know where to locate a geared hanger for the Unit, preferable in the EU?


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## Cif (Jan 6, 2013)

tuxxdk said:


> Does anyone know where to locate a geared hanger for the Unit, preferable in the EU?


I bought one from CRC a couple of months ago....

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/nl/en/kona-rear-derailleur-sliding-bb/rp-prod71904

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*2015 Unit with a couple bits.*









Rides just like yours and I love riding it. The carbon fork and bar were almost as good an upgrade as the wheels. 32/20 gear. I have a nice 29er 140mm wonder bike with dropper and now it's my loaner because this thing is so fun. Kashima my butt.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Mmmmm, dropper post with kashima...


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

NordieBoy said:


> Mmmmm, dropper post with kashima...


Now that funny. The CoolAid is good isn't it. I just don't prefer the suspension and dropper anymore. It's all about single and rigid for me. I may be alone or off a bit admittedly but its just so right there in the moment of riding.

Switch Infinity Kashima ... top that!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Every single lap of today's XC race left me wishing I'd put my dropper on...


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## Bakudan (May 19, 2011)

I think I'll be putting in an order for a 2015 Unit tomorrow. What am I in for, guys?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Harry Mackenzie said:


> I think I'll be putting in an order for a 2015 Unit tomorrow. What am I in for, guys?


uh... steel framed SS goodness?


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

Harry Mackenzie said:


> I think I'll be putting in an order for a 2015 Unit tomorrow. What am I in for, guys?


If online ordering, then you're in for a total stripdown and rebuild to get stuff greased up and wheels properly tensioned. But after that you're left with a total awesome bike.

Welcome to the Unit-club


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Just brought a 2015 home this week, it looks even better in person. My 1st SS, since childhood. I cant stress enough how awesome it looks. 

Would I know if the shop forgot to grease things?

Thanks! 
i'll post some pics later if anyone wants.


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

You will know if/when you start replacing parts. I'm properly more anal than most when it comes to that, but who with their marbles intact locktites crankbearings?


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Thanks. Speaking of- who makes the best SS crank arm bolts these days? I'd like to get rid of the bash guard. Otherwise cant think of a single thing to change yet.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

The bike truly rides well out of the box. I'm a big fan of 20t cog, 2.4 Ardents Tubeless an esi chunky monkey grips if you have just a bit left over. I think the Comet crank is self extracting. Good luck and put up some pics of that new ride!


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

DPeper said:


> I think the Comet crank is self extracting.


It is.

God I love that design. Works so well, and seems so much more solid than the puny treads and small bolts on the HT2 Shimano cranks.


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## Saul Lumikko (Oct 23, 2012)

isis07734 said:


> Thanks. Speaking of- who makes the best SS crank arm bolts these days? I'd like to get rid of the bash guard. Otherwise cant think of a single thing to change yet.


I bought a couple of sets of Problem Solvers stainless steel SS chainring bolts. They seem well made and the female piece is tightened with a hex key, as they should.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Just put on some TOGS for my night ride tonight. I'm not sure they are as good as a bar end but I'll try em.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Thanks Saul. 

Thinking about taking atleast 1/2inch off the bars on each end. 


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Has anyone fit a 29 plus tire on a wider rim with the stock P2 fork without clearance issues?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

djembe975 said:


> Has anyone fit a 29 plus tire on a wider rim with the stock P2 fork without clearance issues?


Or even B+?


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

spatterer said:


> Thanks! It was a tough ride but definitely worth it. Great experience!!
> 
> btw It's a 2013 Unit, L, with other wheels (Hope Evo II/BOR388-rim) and china-carbon fork. No issues!


Congrats!

What gearing did you run?


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## spatterer (Dec 2, 2010)

jbass said:


> Congrats!
> 
> What gearing did you run?


Day 1 & 2: 32x18
Day 3 to 7: 34x18


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Fantastic looking bike.


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

My 2013 Unit (20"). Still loving it 









I have toyed with the idea of upgrading the wheelset, but as the original wheels seem to work fine (except that I have replaced 4 or 5 broken spokes from the front wheel and maybe two from the rear) I will not probably bother before they totally explode


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

kyttyra said:


> My 2013 Unit (20"). Still loving it
> 
> View attachment 1023508
> 
> ...


several broken spokes? Wow that seems unusual. An upgraded wheelset is always enjoyed. If you have liked the stock WTB rims which I did, I can definitely recommend the i25 KOM rim with a nice high engagement drivetrain. I went White Industries 20t trials freewheel on a Surley new ultra hub. I have just past the 3000 mile mark and most of it on these wheels. I upgraded right away, the Surleys aren't the most expensive. They are the "poor mans PAUL" I didn't care and they've been problem free.


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## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

I am selling my 2013 Kona Unit. Only ridden 2 time on fire road trails. I'm selling it because I never use it. It's in perfect condition. I have done many upgrades. Upgrades listed below:
Ritchey WCS stem - new
ENVE carbon riser bar - new
Richey WCS carbon fork - new
Crank Bros 50/50 pedals - new
Jag wire Pro brake cable - new
AVID 9 brake levers - new
Schwab Racing Ralph EVO TLE tires - new
Carbon stem spacers - new
Oury black grips

Also included:
Original Kona handlebar, stem, fork, grips, set of Maxxis Cross Mark tires and new set of orange Oury grips.

Asking $900 o.b.o plus shipping.

I can email detail pictures on request.

Email me at [email protected] with any questions.

Thanks 
Jerry


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## CB2423 (May 14, 2012)

size?


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## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

It's 18"


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## fred92 (Jul 30, 2005)

Whaou, the bike looks very nice. what is the size of the frame (17 inch ?) ?



OFFcourse said:


> Finished building mine up yesterday, smacked her around today - she loved it!
> 
> View attachment 982707
> 
> ...


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## keevo (Nov 5, 2015)

Hi folks!

Couple days ago i hopped in a bandwagon of unit. Did get it an awesome price on a local store.










Here as a bone stock. I´ve planned to fit 1x10 trans and carbon rigid fork, tanwall tyres , carbon seatpost, lighter pedals and so on.. The bike is so much fun! I have been spending a more time on a roadbike but smahing the trails is very nice also. Clad that i was able to get the 15 version, cause the 16 well is not so nice looking..

Cheers!


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

Nice bike, you'll love it. I would recommend leaving it as a single speed for a while, you may grow to like to, I certainly do.


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## Saltflyer (Jul 15, 2009)

Size is 18"


Saltflyer said:


> I am selling my 2013 Kona Unit. Only ridden 2 time on fire road trails. I'm selling it because I never use it. It's in perfect condition. I have done many upgrades. Upgrades listed below:
> Ritchey WCS stem - new
> ENVE carbon riser bar - new
> Richey WCS carbon fork - new
> ...


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## CB2423 (May 14, 2012)

Has anyone purchased a 2016 yet?


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

fred92 said:


> Whaou, the bike looks very nice. what is the size of the frame (17 inch ?) ?


Yeah it's a 17" Made a few changes...went 28x18 instead of 32x20 it's a weeny drop lower but we climb a f#@kload here but mostly it was to get the chainstay length a little shorter, think I lost 8-10mm still not slammed but as close as I can get without a tensioner (with a ratio suitable for terrain).

Also put on Conti's an MK front and XK rear both in 2.4 they look monster  dropped the travel to 100mm and adjusted the shim stack, prefered it at 120mm so it'll go back up when I can be a$$ed opening it up again.

I'm 5'7" (170cm) and run a straight seatpost with a 70mm stem (could go less just on special) and a flat 720mm bar.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Just scored an unused small 2014 Unit frame to build up for wifey as an urban assault weapon.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Cool, gonna built it ss?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Initially SS until I get a geared dropout for it. Too hilly here and she bikes less than once a month. Don't want to scare her off.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Don't worry about weather or not she's running single, what ever it takes to get her riding with you is the key. With gears the Unit really rides well.


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

New wheels to my trusted steed: Easton Arc27 rims laced to Hope Pro 2 hubs. Tyres are 2.4" Maxxis Ardents, set up tubeless.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

kyttyra said:


> New wheels to my trusted steed: Easton Arc27 rims laced to Hope Pro 2 hubs. Tyres are 2.4" Maxxis Ardents, set up tubeless.
> 
> The tan walls are tubeless ready??


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

DPeper said:


> Don't worry about weather or not she's running single, what ever it takes to get her riding with you is the key. With gears the Unit really rides well.


I had mine with a 100mm with a 1x10 and it was a solid bike. Actually liked the added degree of slackness the longer fork created


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## kyttyra (Mar 8, 2012)

jcitizen1 said:


> The tan walls are tubeless ready??


Apparently!

Furthermore, they were my only knobbly 29er tyres, so of course I had to try 

I used a DIY air compressor (made from an old foam extinguisher) to seat the tyres, which was very easy. Initially I only added about 50cl (≈1,5 ounces) of sealant per tyre as it was all I had at the moment. The tires were previously used (maybe 200-300 km) but they held air quite well. The front tyre emptied itself after two days of use so I added 30cl sealant to front tyre, and 20cl to rear just in case.

That was a week ago, and I have had no leaks (or any other problems) after that. I have used 1,2 bar front and 1,4 bar rear (I weigh ≈80 kg's).


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jcitizen1 said:


> The tan walls are tubeless ready??


Nope. But they seem to seal up as well as the non-tubeless normal Ardents.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

I had regular ardent blow off my rear rim twice and.it left me scarred


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

I've been running them also successfully. I imagine I can feel a difference in the sidewalls. Probably not though.


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

DPeper said:


> I've been running them also successfully. I imagine I can feel a difference in the sidewalls. Probably not though.


It is so tempting, but if Im gonna order them Ill probably just do the tubeless ready, which is black, unfortunately.

What rims are you using?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

What's the max travel you guys use on your units? Also that doesn't void warranty. I'm looking to slack it out for some big mountain riding. Still ss of course! 


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

kikoraa said:


> What's the max travel you guys use on your units? Also that doesn't void warranty. I'm looking to slack it out for some big mountain riding. Still ss of course!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think 100mm is what Kona reccos as a max from the reading I've done. Maybe that's changed, though? If you really want more travel I'd look at the Honzo.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I already have the unit which is why I was asking. I was hoping it could take 120mm with a straight steer tube since the tapered will add about 10mm more in axle to crown length 


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

kikoraa said:


> I already have the unit which is why I was asking. I was hoping it could take 120mm with a straight steer tube since the tapered will add about 10mm more in axle to crown length
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Email Kona. The frame is not delicate so I'd be shocked if it couldn't handle it seeing as it's built to bash around on a rigid fork. It'll bring the head angle to about 68 which I like a lot more than the bike stock at 70degrees.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

I'm running the tan wall ardent 2.4 at 21# up front and 24# rear on a 2015 Kona Unit with WTB KOM i25 rims. I have a couple hundred miles on them with zero issues.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*Here are those ardents I've been running. Set up tubeless.*


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## jcitizen1 (Jun 28, 2011)

DPeper said:


> View attachment 1039023


Very interesting. I'm gonna try to check back with you in a couple more 100k just in case, haha.

I would be running mine on i23 KOMs, so I'm hoping the bead on those rims is what's keeping things on tight. Stans have (had) a lesser beadhook than the UST specific rims, from what I've been told. May have been that. Or I may have just had a dud of a tire.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I run mine at 120mm and like it there 68 degrees is about my sweet spot. I dunno about the warranty but I'm not concerned its not like it's a $3k carbon frame.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Running my non-tubeless 2.4 black Ardent on an i23 front at 17-18psi without problem.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Absolutely love this bike!!

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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

kikoraa said:


> I already have the unit which is why I was asking. I was hoping it could take 120mm with a straight steer tube since the tapered will add about 10mm more in axle to crown length
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Granted, slackening the head angle will put more stress on the front of the frame. But at the same time, its designed for a rigid fork, so I would think any suspension fork would lessen that stress to some degree. It's probably a wash. I would use common sense: if you weigh 250 and like doing big drops, forget it. If you're light or keep the tires on the trail most of the time, you'll be fine. I'd be more concerned about the dramatic change in geometry: slack seat tube angle, raised BB height, shortened reach, taller stack. You can tweak your cockpit to compensate for some of that, but not all of it. My Raijin descended better with a 120mm on it, but felt clumsy otherwise, and the old Reba felt flexy at that length.

Warranty? You're probably out of luck. But again, I'd be more concerned about possible medical bills and missed work, which could set you back WAY more than $500 for a new frame, and possibly leave your body screwed up.


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

Here's my 2013. Started as a frame up build as a rigid SS. Added the 100mm Fox and 1x10 after a broken wrist. Now she's back to SS with tubeless 2.35 tires at 20-25 PSI, sticking with the Fox for now. Like a magic carpet. Dropper post is in the mail!


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## ShredAZ (May 7, 2014)

Hopefully we don't consider this a thread revival...
Looking at snagging a '13 Unit frame. I would like to do a 27.5+ setup on this guy. 35mm rims with 2.8's (or 3's if allowing).

Anyone run a B+ setup on their unit?
What should I expect for tire clearance? If the frame can fit a true 2.4, I should be fine for a 27.5 x 2.8 at least. Anyone confirm with first hand experience?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

i have a 2011 Unit. there is only 71mm for the rear tire, which is tight. I am interested in a 29+ though, i won't get around to it until this summer but it may not work. guess i'll just have to buy a Krampus, oh well.


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## t3mplar (Jun 4, 2013)

Finally got my 2013 Unit configured the way I want it. Currently it's sitting at 24.38 lbs.
- Fox Float fork
- Crankbrothers Cobalt wheels
- XT brakes and crankset
- Absolute black chainring
- Crankbrothers carbon bar
- Crankbrothers Cobalt 3 seat post
- Crankbrothers Cobalt 3 saddle
- Eggbeater 2


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## MTBLoCo29 (Feb 13, 2013)

t3mplar said:


> Finally got my 2013 Unit configured the way I want it. Currently it's sitting at 24.38 lbs.
> - Fox Float fork
> - Crankbrothers Cobalt wheels
> - XT brakes and crankset
> ...


Nice! Looks like mine, but lighter with all the Crank Bros goodies.


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## marco_m (Jun 17, 2015)

I have beeing running stock 18t and were considering to change 20t cog, for forest/offroad riding, since 18t isnt quite slow enough.
Were just wondering, that have anyone tried dingles? do unit ( 2015 ) even have enough slider space for 17/20 / 18/20 dingle?
Or do it even fit dingles?


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

plenty of space for a dingle...just set it up with the same amount of teeth (32-20 and 34-18 for example) and the chain will be almost the same length, definitely within the range of a minor slider adjustment.


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## marco_m (Jun 17, 2015)

Just checked my 2015 unit rear for cog, have had normal lockring hubs before, but that one in unit is new to me.
Googled for how to dissamble it, with Park Tool FR5 and chain whip, but it looks that cog is same piece with that lockring? or is it just so well together that it looks being same piece?
so just wondering will i have to buy new lockring for it when changing cog? seems kinda stupid tough if have to do that.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

It should be a standard 9-10-11 speed free hub with spacer, cog, spacer and lock ring.


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

NordieBoy said:


> It should be a standard 9-10-11 speed free hub with spacer, cog, spacer and lock ring.


My Unit is a 2012 so things may have changed but mine came stock with a narrower free hub. Set up is the same but certainly not wide enough to run a full cassette. Plenty of room for two cogs though.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jmctav23 said:


> My Unit is a 2012 so things may have changed but mine came stock with a narrower free hub. Set up is the same but certainly not wide enough to run a full cassette. Plenty of room for two cogs though.


Looks like it was the screw on style lock ring and narrower hub up until 2015.

I've got a 2011 with the older style and 2 sets of 2015 wheels with the normal geared free hub.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Random question, does anyone know the weight of a large Unit frame? Also, has anyone built up a ss Unit with suspension under 24lbs.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*120mm fork experiment*

i own the 2013 Unit, size L, still everything stock.
after a year and 1500 miles i got (physically) a bit tired of rigid and single speed for everyday rides in technical rocky terrains.
so i added a 2015 Honzo, size M, to the stable. for fun rides with fast descents, for long distance rides, for a change.
now i do half my rides on the unit and half on the honzo.

i really love the units rigid fork, "what you see is what you get" and if you didn't see it, you get it anyway...
i mean you feel the trail as is and the steering is totally predictable and easy.
but still i wondered how the unit would feel with suspension. for fun downhill.

and since the suspension of the honzo being so close and available
i ordered me one of these cane creek EC44/40 bottom cups.
lets see how this unit is going on 120mm suspension.

well. first honzo's steerer is about 1 cm too short.
the top cup cover of the unit is very high, and the top cover of the honzo doesn't fit the units top cup.
anyway i assembled the parts for a test ride (leaving a few millimeter gap open between the unit top cup and the honzo cover).

now the test ride: that thing feels really weird. uncomfortable steering.
i didn't even bother to take it on the trail.
i know here in the forum are people who ride 120mm forks on units. some probably with tapered forks with the external cups.
the external cup adds 12mm hight and together with the
fork the frame rose 5 cm in the front (2 inches)
and the BB rose 3 cm (bit more than an inch)

for me the feeling and behavior of the bike was unacceptable,
i quickly switched everything back.

finally i think if suspension on the unit: not more than 100mm travel
and with a straight steerer to keep it as low as possible.

Meanwhile i stay with the unit as is, maybe one day i'll get me a 100mm straight suspension fork.
Or make the Honzo single speed


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

My 100mm Manitou Marvel's are 20mm longer A-C than the P2's, slacken the head angle off a degree and are as long as I'd like to go.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*Trying to suspend with a little more tire and lower presure.*

Really liked the comments on suspension setups that are being tried. I've been having some thoughts on that. However I chose to try a big tire. This is a WTB 29er I35 Asym with a Hans Dampf 2.35 mounted up. That back tire is an WTB KOM I25 with Ardent 2.4 for comparison.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> i own the 2013 Unit, size L


That's a special frame. Raw steel, final year of the custom-geometry-by-size, final year for the 20", 70/73 angles (the sweet spot, IMO, in the Unit's gradual slide into enduro geometry). Good stuff.

If it's still stock like you say, how about a fatter front tire and shorter stem? That might make it more fun to ride on your technical rocky terrains, and blunt the craving for a suspension fork. I also have two bikes, and like having them set up as different as possible.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

Ryder1 said:


> ... a fatter front tire and shorter stem? That might make it more fun to ride on your technical rocky terrains, and blunt the craving for a suspension fork. I also have two bikes, and like having them set up as different as possible.


never thought about it that way, keeping them as different as possible!
thanks for the input!


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*The big tire thing was just ok sadly*



HaZZarDaZZle said:


> never thought about it that way, keeping them as different as possible!
> thanks for the input!


I was really excited by the big tire thing and didn't want to add too much weight to the front on my Unit. Since I got a swinging deal on a set of those Asym i35 rims and built the front one up. Like all WTB stuff it build up great. Even with the 4mm offset spoke holes the stock wheels were relaced without issue...amazing stuff wtb. The ride was really nice as well. I would estimate that it took about 3/4 of an inch off the trail surface. This felt significant! Imagine your standard trail floated out 3/4 of an inch. Smoother. 
I didn't like the extra weight however from my KOMs i25 and switched back after 2 rides. That Hans Dampf was probably too heavy as well. I'm sure I'll work on it more. I also noticed a small amount of tire steering going on similar to the first time you ride a fat bike a lean a bit. Not much but some....


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## Keyaroxy (Jul 14, 2004)

Selling a 2013 frame w/ cranks BB in classifieds - great shape.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

why isn't it an XL? who is hoarding all the XL Kona Unit frames?????? 

I'm looking to buy/trade my 20" frame for a bigger one. will buy complete bike if necessary.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

DPeper said:


> Really liked the comments on suspension setups that are being tried. I've been having some thoughts on that. However I chose to try a big tire. This is a WTB 29er I35 Asym with a Hans Dampf 2.35 mounted up. That back tire is an WTB KOM I25 with Ardent 2.4 for comparison.


I'm still running stock tires and stock fork (2015 model), but interested in going fatter upp front. Is it worth upgrading the 2.25 Ardents to 2.4? Have a feeling that by going bigger than that, I'll have to get a new front rim.

How big tire can I use in front, but still be able to use the stock fork and/or rim?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

It's always worth upgrading 2.25 Ardents to 2.4
There's not really any downside at all.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

jocke said:


> I'm still running stock tires and stock fork (2015 model), but interested in going fatter upp front. Is it worth upgrading the 2.25 Ardents to 2.4? Have a feeling that by going bigger than that, I'll have to get a new front rim.
> 
> How big tire can I use in front, but still be able to use the stock fork and/or rim?


Why would you need a new rim? the difference between the 2.25 and 2.4 isn't that big. It's not like you're moving to a plus size tire.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

newagebiker said:


> Why would you need a new rim? the difference between the 2.25 and 2.4 isn't that big. It's not like you're moving to a plus size tire.


Sorry for not being especially clear there. Never said that 2.4 would need a new rim; I just have a feeling that a tire bigger than 2.4 might need a new rim.

But yeah, I'm thinking about going for a plus size tire, hence me asking what the maximum size tire the stock fork and rim would allow.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Ah I see. In that case, I wouldn't go bigger than 2.5s on the stock rims.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

newagebiker said:


> Ah I see. In that case, I wouldn't go bigger than 2.5s on the stock rims.


Alright, guess I'll put my thoughts on a (even) fatter front on hold. Thanks for the help!


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## BikeBro (Nov 13, 2012)

*OneSpeed* said:


> why isn't it an XL? who is hoarding all the XL Kona Unit frames??????
> 
> I'm looking to buy/trade my 20" frame for a bigger one. will buy complete bike if necessary.


Dont know if you are still looking for a frame but I just came across this; kona unit

Save the poor girl!


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

BikeBro said:


> Dont know if you are still looking for a frame but I just came across this; kona unit
> 
> Save the poor girl!


yes i'm still looking, but that is a large not a XL. at this point i'm convinced all the XL's have disappeared through a wormhole to another dimension.


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## BikeBro (Nov 13, 2012)

*OneSpeed* said:


> yes i'm still looking, but that is a large not a XL. at this point i'm convinced all the XL's have disappeared through a wormhole to another dimension.


Its a 22" as per sticker on top tube, I wouldn't agree with the sellers "large" description.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

*OneSpeed* said:


> i'm convinced all the XL's have disappeared through a wormhole to another dimension.


A dimension of very leggy people, no doubt: that XL has a 34.8" stand over! Well, it does with stock wheels, anyhow. Maybe somebody put 26" wheels on it just so they could safely ride it. Or the stock wheels were stolen at some point...


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

BikeBro said:


> Its a 22" as per sticker on top tube, I wouldn't agree with the sellers "large" description.


hmm, i did not see that. mine is the same white frame and doesn't have that, or it fell off.

next problem: it's in Tijuana. anyone know if it's a PITA to get stuff shipped from Mexico? (not including drugs because apparently that's quite easy) worth making contact i think, we'll see. thanks



Ryder1 said:


> A dimension of very leggy people, no doubt: that XL has a 34.8" stand over! Well, it does with stock wheels, anyhow. Maybe somebody put 26" wheels on it just so they could safely ride it. Or the stock wheels were stolen at some point...


my 20" frame has a ton of standover clearance. more than any other bike i own, not sure where they take that measurement but maybe it's farther forward on the TT? my cycling inseam is ~34.8 but I'm not worried.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

so i got an e-mail back, it's sold. and it was a XL. come on, it's for sale for almost 30 days with no buyers, and as soon as i inquire it's gone. 

then i read further down the e-mail response and the guy admitted it was a stolen bike and he sold it for $50. there is no way i would support the stolen bike market. 

anyway, thanks for the link. the search continues.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone here use a tapered 120mm fork in their units? 


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone here use a tapered 120mm fork in their units?


There was a bit of front end geometry and suspension discussion in the last few pages. Not sure how it would ride on the newer Units, but I wouldn't put anything longer than the 80mm on my 2012.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Has anyone been able to squeeze a 27.5+ rim/tire combo in rear triangle of the unit? I have a 2015 and am thinking iv converting it to a 27.5+ bike to keep the diameter around 29" but have the benefits of + sizing. 


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

I measured, won't fit in my 2011


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jmctav23 said:


> There was a bit of front end geometry and suspension discussion in the last few pages. Not sure how it would ride on the newer Units, but I wouldn't put anything longer than the 80mm on my 2012.


Love my 100mm on my 2011.
With a tapered headset though, it'd add another 10mm or so.


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## blkqi (Oct 15, 2015)

NordieBoy said:


> Love my 100mm on my 2011.
> With a tapered headset though, it'd add another 10mm or so.


I agree. With my 100mm Reba, the stock geometry is well preserved at about 470mm axle-to-crown length (when you account for sag). With an 80mm fork with little rake you would be steepening the head tube angle a bit.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone here use a tapered 120mm fork in their units?


i did, check post #933, one page back.

...the external cup adds 12mm height and together with the
fork the frame rose 5 cm in the front (2 inches)...

for my taste it's ridiculously too high, rides like a chopper.
if you need 120mm, get a Honzo or something

5 of my friends ride units with 100mm suspensions, straight steerer.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Has anyone setup their units with thru axle front and rear? I'm curious about doing this. Both of my hubs can convert. Does it really help with stiffness 


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## blkqi (Oct 15, 2015)

Stiffer? Yes. Perceptibly? Probably not.

It's a cheap enough upgrade that it's worth doing if only to keep up-to-date with axle standards. One way to protect your investment in a new fork or hubset.

Another benefit for me is ease of swapping wheelsets between the Unit and the Honzo.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

*thru vs qr fork axle stiffness*

I read this article before purchasing my fork and felt that it had some good thoughts and reasonable talk. I chose the QR because of weight and similar stiffness in comparison to the thru axle. Best of luck with your upgrades...

Rigid Fork Shootout: QR Open Dropout VS Thru-Axle | Singletracks Mountain Bike News


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Anybody tried out a 2016? About to pull the trigger but wanted to hear some opinions.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I imagine it's the same as the 2015 (what I have) I didn't see anything different other than the two color schemes I'm not a fan of. It's a fun and versatile bike. Get one. 


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Geometry is different, but I havent ridden a 29er mtb before so I don't think it will matter! Too bad the shop is closed Mondays...


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## CB2423 (May 14, 2012)

I wanted a 2016 but could not stomach the color choices this year. Hoping the new batch brings in a tolerable color.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

2015 was the jam!









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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

Nice KONA *DPeper*!
How would you estimate the rear tire clearance? Is there a chance of fitting the same combo (I35+2.35 HD) in the rear, or 2.4 ardent on i25 is the limit?
I'd happy to know my beloved tire/rim combo - Minion 2.5 on i35 would fit in the rear of 2016 UNIT. And 2.5 Minion is just a tad wider than HD.
Thanks!


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

I truly love my 2016.

Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

The geometry fits me like a glove.


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

kikoraa said:


>


Good stuff, kikoraa!

Love my '15 as well, but have sudden sting of upgradeitis. Swapped bars, grips, pedals and brakes - what would be the best next upgrade for me? Wheels? Tires? I've been thinking about geting 2.4 Ardents (instead of the stock 2.25) but not sure if they're worth it. Wouldn't mind getting the bike a bit lighter, but hesistant at throwing money at carbon components at the same time.

Any help/tips here, folks? 
Thankful for any input.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

2.4 Ardent's are always worth it over the 2.25's.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Agreed. Also I have light amclassic wheels, carbon bars, carbon post, and carbon fork. Xt crank. ****er still weighs like 24 pounds. There's a dropper on there now. I can abuse the hell out of this bike. 


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

jocke said:


> Good stuff, kikoraa!
> 
> Love my '15 as well, but have sudden sting of upgradeitis. Swapped bars, grips, pedals and brakes - what would be the best next upgrade for me? Wheels? Tires? I've been thinking about geting 2.4 Ardents (instead of the stock 2.25) but not sure if they're worth it. Wouldn't mind getting the bike a bit lighter, but hesistant at throwing money at carbon components at the same time.
> 
> ...


Jenson is blowing out Niner carbon seat posts for 35 bucks...makes a noticeable difference in comfort and the weight savings is just an added bonus. I keep wanting to trash the stock wheelset on my 2012 so I can upgrade but they just keep on rolling true with no hub issues so I can't quite justify it.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

It's all about engagement if you've got rocky or rooty climbs. Carbon bar, carbon fork, 2.4 Ardents and high engagement hubs.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Brisk Snail I looked at my dropout and I'd say NO. It might barely barely fit but it'd have to be arrow straight and never an ounce of side load


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

DPeper said:


> Brisk Snail I looked at my dropout and I'd say NO. It might barely barely fit but it'd have to be arrow straight and never an ounce of side load


Thanks, DPeper! Though, this is bad news for me


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

A 2.4 ardent will clear rear no?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Yes kikoraa, on an i25 wtb rim with the 2.4 Ardent fits perfectly and I think is the best riding, long lasting tire for the Unit. I love the predictable traction and float they offer without the weight penalty of Minnions, especially rigid. The Ardent 2.4 is the first upgrade I recommend .


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

Sorry, but is there enough clearance on both sides with 2.4 Ardents, *DPeper*? Is there a chance to fit a bit wider tire on i25 rim?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Yes there is enough room for a bit more than the 2.4 Ardent. What tire are you thinking of? I haven't tried a true 29+ tire like the Chupacabra. That's a big jump and I'd be doubtful. An i29 Asym wtb might get to the limit of the yoke.


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

As I said earlier, I had planned to fit 2.5 minion in the rear. You said it won't work with i35 rim and I thought i could fit it on my MTX33 26mm internal rim.
Do you think chupacabra on i29 could fit in there? Or do you mean Ardent 2.4 on i29 is the limit?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

Yes it'll fit with your setup. 64mm for the DHF 2.5 and 60mm for the 2.4 Ardent. They have a very aggressive tread and are 1000 gr. tire.


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

The chupacabra isn't going to fit or ride worth anything on a rim that narrow.


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

They are killers! I have 26x2.4 Ardent on my 26" FS bike and 29x2.5 Minions on Singular Gryphon (tons of clearance to spare, sold now). Both tires are fast rolling and very grippy.









Sorry for posting this in Kona thread. I hope to add a Kona Unit 2016 build pic if I end up ordering one.

Thanks, *DPeper*!


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

looks nice. I had them on my Transion Covert 29er and could really feel the weight. So they are now waiting for days on the lift, when I go.
Looks like some rear mech is on that Singular? What ration do you normally run? Looks like a 30t up front.


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

There is Hope SS/Trial hub with 6 cogs on it. I tried separate cassete cogs, but they started to spoil the stainless steel freehub body, so I installed 6 fastened together cogs from 11-28 shimano cassette. The front is 28t. So, 14-28 cassete and 28t in front.
Plenty of gear ratios after ss setup.
And my normal "multigear" ratios for 29er with 175 cranks is 28 to 11-32 or 28 to 11-36 for heavy conditions.
And ss - usually 32/18 but I also run everything from 30/22 to 38/20 depending on the season\bike\tires\mood


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## jocke (Jul 26, 2013)

NordieBoy, jmctav23, DPeper,

thanks for your input. Looks like I'm getting some 2.4's then!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone have their units setup monstercross stylee with some flared dirt drops? 


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## rjx (Apr 16, 2011)

Hi everyone.

I have a 2014 Kona Unit with the stock WTB ST i23 TCS rims.

Will I be able to use 2.00 and 2.10 tires? 

Thanks.


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

yes...you'd be fine with anything from 1.9 to 2.4.


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

kikoraa said:


> Anyone have their units setup monstercross stylee with some flared dirt drops?


I thought about it briefly, but then I built up a Vassago Fisticuff for monster cross and commuting duty so the Unit can stay MTB style.


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

What's the kona unit front derailleur clamp size? I'm looking to hear it up for bikepacking. 


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Interesting. I have a 2014 Unit with a 2.4 Ardent in the front, and the 2.25 in the back. Works great but y'all got me thinking to slap a 2.4 on the back too now . . .


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

What are the benefits of putting Ardent 2,4 on a Unit? I'm running stock tyres on my 2015 and don't know what I'm missing.

Also, what are the benefits (if any?) from reversing the stock stem so it doesn't rise?

Thanks


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

tuxxdk said:


> What are the benefits of putting Ardent 2,4 on a Unit? I'm running stock tyres on my 2015 and don't know what I'm missing.
> 
> Also, what are the benefits (if any?) from reversing the stock stem so it doesn't rise?
> 
> Thanks


I talked to other rigid riders(and ss'rs) who said they got good results with a bigger tire up front--a little more grip/traction, and a little more cushion too, so I gave it a try. I'd say in my case for where I ride (rocky, dry, loose-over-hardpack SoCal) the difference IS noticeable, but not hugely dramatic. Dunno if a bigger tire in the back as well would feel more sluggish or not on this bike, but I can imagine the extra cushiness could be nice.


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## tuxxdk (Apr 12, 2015)

jbass said:


> I talked to other rigid riders(and ss'rs) who said they got good results with a bigger tire up front--a little more grip/traction, and a little more cushion too, so I gave it a try. I'd say in my case for where I ride (rocky, dry, loose-over-hardpack SoCal) the difference IS noticeable, but not hugely dramatic. Dunno if a bigger tire in the back as well would feel more sluggish or not on this bike, but I can imagine the extra cushiness could be nice.


It's hard to imagine an improvement, when one's not experienced any downsides to not running 2,4.

Thanks for explaining - I guess I'll have to jump the wagon myself when I'm in need for a new tyre


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Anyone have an idea in front derailleur clamp size? I have a 2015 unit 


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

kikoraa said:


> what's the kona unit front derailleur clamp size? I'm looking to hear it up for bikepacking.
> 
> Sent from my iphone using tapatalk





kikoraa said:


> anyone have an idea in front derailleur clamp size? I have a 2015 unit
> 
> sent from my iphone using tapatalk


let me google that for you

you could have had your answer three days ago. click the first link


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Asshat- I can assure the front derailleur clamp is not a 31.8. That is a typo. I've been searching but haven't found anything online. I was wanting to get info from anyone who's managed to put a front derailleur on their units. You don't have to be a sassy prick about it. 


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

2013 was 28.6. my 2011 measures 29.2. i found two descriptions that said 2015 was 28.6 but nothing factual directly from Kona. can you not just measure your frame?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I can measure a 2011, but that won't help.


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## marco_m (Jun 17, 2015)

Its 30.0mm


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## Aaron Bleakley (Apr 30, 2015)

*2015 Unit with Rekon+.....Yes it fits *

HI!

So... after converting my 2016 Kona Process 153 to 27.5+ I tried to fit those wheels into my Unit. Front easily went in, and the back looked like it would be good, but as that wheel wasn't QR (it is 142) I wasn't 100% sure. SO I built up a wheelset with WTB I29 and got some more Maxxis Rekons. At the same time I cleaned up the welds in the yoke with a file and repainted the 1.5inch sections I flattened out. (I am a bike mechanic, and have built my own steel frames in the 90s)

Without the weld cleanup there was room, but doing that added another 2-3mm each side. Tires measured @66-67mm and there is a good 5mm spare each side. I went for a muddy ride today and it was fine.

I checked a medium sized 2016 on the floor of my shop and found that the welding was cleaner and had the same clearance as my modified setup. So it may be that everyones bikes may be slightly different depending on the welder the day it was built

As for rim choice. I run Heist 30s on the Process and the WTBi29 on the Unit. Having built and ridden Plus bikes with wider rims, I do not feel that there is noticeably more side-wall support for 2.8 tires in the wider rims BUT you do get a wider tire. Of course, if I went wider on the Unit it would not have fitted. DT Swiss have recently released their wider wheelsets and for their 30mm internal rims they recommend 2.5-2.8 tires. I know that Maxxis say they designed the Rekons for wider rims, but I honestly feel that 29/30mm- thru to 35/40mm are good enough for 2.8s. 3"..that is another matter...

FWIW I am an elite level MTBer and have raced/ridden MTB since 1989 and have had some form of tubeless setup since 1999 (ghetto, then Stans).

The main reason for converting the Unit was that I wasn't riding it as often as I wanted due to the onset of arthritis in my hands. After feeling how good it made the Process, I knew it would make the Unit perfect for my current needs.

Rode it today, still point and shoot like before, but maybe better because it has dropped the BB back down to stock (when fork is sagged) after being raised from having 100mm fork put on. Grip is awesome for SS climbing!


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

thats bad ass!


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## won qear (Apr 26, 2007)

Hi Aaron, thanks for sharing. It's given me an idea

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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?

(2015)


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

isis07734 said:


> Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?
> 
> (2015)


No. Yes. Yes.

longer fork = shorter cockpit


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

isis07734 said:


> Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?
> 
> (2015)


What size frame are you on? I have a large with 740 bars and 60mm stem and it still feels long to me haha. I'm 5'10 but I have a stupid long inseam for my body type.

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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

isis07734 said:


> Would putting a 100mm fork on it make the bike feel less cramped in the cockpit? It would tip the whole thing back a bit right? Less weight fwd?
> 
> (2015)


It'll slacken out the steering a degree which isn't a bad thing.


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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Thanks Ryder and Nordie. I think it's just too small.

Kikoraa, it's a 19" wanna buy it?


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I think that's the same one I have haha. 


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## jgar (Aug 11, 2009)

Hey guys,

I have a Kona Unit (2013) that I bought off Craigslist about a year ago. It's an awesome bike, and the first 29er I've ever owned. The guy whom I bought it from converted it to a 1x9, but I am going to be converting it back to a Single Speed very soon here. 

What I wanted to get some input from you all, though, was on some aftermarket parts that I might look into in order to get a more snappy, bmxey feel on my bike? I know some of the components I am going to need to consider swapping are the headset, the stem, the handlebars, and the cranks. Anyone have any recommendations as far as models?

Thanks a lot for reading!


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

Why the headset and cranks? That's won't make it snappier. Shorten the stem and widen the bars maybe. 740-760 paired with 50-60mm 


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

kikoraa said:


> Why the headset and cranks? That's won't make it snappier. Shorten the stem and widen the bars maybe. 740-760 paired with 50-60mm
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Shorten the cranks for a more BMX feel.

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## Vto2.0 (Jul 27, 2011)

Forgive me if it's not the right place to ask, but does anyone know if a Shimano xt m8000 Groupset would fit on the 2016 unit?


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*broken / snapped project two fork*

i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
i do not want to give up riding rigid, any advice is welcome. thanks!


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## worrptangl (Jun 23, 2009)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
> has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
> we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
> two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
> ...


First off I hope for a speedy recovery!

Has anyone contacted Kona? I just switch my p2 fork out for a Niner carbon fork but I never had any issues and didn't see any signs either.


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Whoa. That's pretty surprising. Never ever heard of that. Unless the fork was defective it's hard to imagine working it hard enough to break it like that! I'd be MORE afraid of a carbon fork failing.
I ride a 2014. I ride in rocky SoCal, but then again, I'm a featherweight old geezer so I don't weigh much and I mostly just crawl through the rough stuff anyway. Man, I hope the dude is OK.


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## danield (Jan 31, 2013)

I also have a 2013 Kona Unit.
I only rode a few miles with the stock P2 fork and sold it because I already have more confortable forks (salsa cromoto and white brothers).

But this broken fork shown in the picture doesn't look like a P2 fork.
Are you sure it is a P2? At least a stock P2 fork?

Here's a picture of mine (before I sold it). You can see there are some differences...


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

danield said:


> But this broken fork shown in the picture doesn't look like a P2 fork.
> Are you sure it is a P2? At least a stock P2 fork?


good point! i am not sure if this was a P2 fork...

i'll try to find out and update


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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

Hmmm--does look a little different--the blades look to have a different contour from the really round/tubular P2, like they flatten a bit near the top. Hard to tell though....


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Doesn't look like a P2, The legs near the dropouts are far too tapered.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

that's pretty much my worst nightmare. i agree it doesn't really look like a P2. I rode a P2 pretty hard for one season, i'm was 205 lbs and not gentle. mine looks like danields picture.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

Tapered, ovalized, doesn't say "P2" near the dropouts. Looks a bit longer/taller than P2, also. What is that thing?


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

Here's mine, a bit slack with the tapered 100mm fork. I'm looking into building a 650b+ wheel set as soon as I get around to it. Do you think the I35s will definitely be a no go in the rear with 2.8s?

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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

Ryder1 said:


> Tapered, ovalized, doesn't say "P2" near the dropouts. Looks a bit longer/taller than P2, also. What is that thing?


looking at it again, it's not a stock build. it's got to be a frame up build. the mis-matched wheels, cranks, seatpost, saddle, bars, brakes, etc. all look like they came off of other bikes. so the fork could be anything. sadly my bet is it came off a department store bike.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

RickyFiggz said:


> Here's mine, a bit slack with the tapered 100mm fork. I'm looking into building a 650b+ wheel set as soon as I get around to it. Do you think the I35s will definitely be a no go in the rear with 2.8s?
> 
> Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk


Definitely. Buy a 2017 when they come out, strip it and sell the kit off it. Easy money and makes the frame work out free 2 super cheap and now you can 29 or 27.5+


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## TDK08 (Jan 30, 2014)

Has anyone upgraded cranks on their 2013's? Yesterday I had the left arm come off during a ride, thankfully it was a few feet after a large climb. The ends of the teeth got a little mangled.

What's s good crankset in the $150 range?


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

SRAM nx or shimano zee both within the $100 range , even shimano xt is on sale at Jenson right now. With whatever's left over you can spend it on a new bb.

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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

TDK08 said:


> What's s good crankset in the $150 range?


Shimano SLX/XT are the best bang for the buck hands down. check Ebay for new take offs in the $100 range. blueskycycling sometimes has good deals too.

you can also get a decent Raceface crank in that range.

I'm never going to own another Sram crank. the BB's are junk.


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## TDK08 (Jan 30, 2014)

Race Face Respond Cranks > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

Shimano M640 Zee 68/73mm Crankset W/36T > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

Shimano SLX FC-M7000-1 Crankarms > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

Here are a few I think should work. The zee appeals to me since my brakes are zee, wished they weren't the heaviest one.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

Used XT:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401218513504

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## cborrman (Sep 23, 2008)

TDK08 said:


> Has anyone upgraded cranks on their 2013's? Yesterday I had the left arm come off during a ride, thankfully it was a few feet after a large climb. The ends of the teeth got a little mangled.
> 
> What's s good crankset in the $150 range?


I had XO downhill on mine as wanted to swap rings on fly and was a 2011 when not as many options. Now have a raceface aefect and love it (on another bike) and love direct fit chainrings, but have to agree SLX is great, if you do not want a direct mount ring. The only issue I have with aefect is dreadfull crank extractor needed which is unlikely to be to hand on a trail, so if for $150 you can get one with normal bolts then better. slx is simples and effective, and never going to loosen on trail


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## keevo (Nov 5, 2015)

Does the 2015 unit take 2.4 ardent w/o any pain as back wheel, with sliders slammed?

It looks like we are getting 4-5mo with snowfall here where i live, so better to get the unit in shape.

Does aneone know any good aftermarkert wheelset, that would be a lighter that stock wtb i23´s, but wont cost arm and leg? They doesnt need to hold any extreme mtb riding, kona is at the moment my commuter.


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

2015 with 2.4 will be no worries


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## Vto2.0 (Jul 27, 2011)

keevo said:


> Does the 2015 unit take 2.4 ardent w/o any pain as back wheel, with sliders slammed?
> 
> It looks like we are getting 4-5mo with snowfall here where i live, so better to get the unit in shape.
> 
> Does aneone know any good aftermarkert wheelset, that would be a lighter that stock wtb i23´s, but wont cost arm and leg? They doesnt need to hold any extreme mtb riding, kona is at the moment my commuter.


2.4 Ardents, rolling without issues. Wish I would have gotten the tan walls thou.















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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

My2015 fits ardent 2.4 just fine. 


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## froutts (Feb 9, 2010)

Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over. 


Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.


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## Vto2.0 (Jul 27, 2011)

froutts said:


> Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
> Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over.
> 
> Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.


Hey froutts, I'm 5'11 and I ride a large, I like the size and feel like it fits me well, but I do like riding bigger bikes, I had a medium in a different brand and it was nice because you can throw it around the corners a bit better. I have heard you can fit 27.5 x 2.8 size tires on these bikes which can make your medium a super fun and fast bike, hope that helps your decision making process 

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## jbass (Oct 29, 2014)

froutts said:


> Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
> Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11", my ratios about normal at my height (well not everything but thats not relevant to bike size . About 32" inseam I think. I can get a medium 2016 in the black / orange. I don't really care for the colour, but other than that a use 2013 20" is the only thing available near me (NZ, so limited option). The new 2017 come out in a few weeks at full price and I don't really want the 27.5+, I suppose I could get some 29 wheels and swap over.
> 
> Size help - should I be ok on the medium (17" i think). I prefer shorter stem than long, and do not want to feel cramped. However, I am going off road with it so want something fun rather than larger and more stable feeling.


Hmmm, I'm only about 5'8" and I ride a 2014 17" Unit. It is the most comfortable bike I've ever owned. It LOOKS a little big for me, but my standover is OK, and man, I wouldn't want the cockpit to be any tighter. I guess I can't throw it around like I might be able to with the smaller one, but on long rides I never feel cramped at all. Take this FWIW--it's the first 29'r I've ever owned so I don;t have a lot to compare with.


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

My brother in law is 5'11" and rides a Medium 2011. Being a rigid 29er makes the bike feel big, imo. I am 5'7" and ended up with a small. I can normally ride Medium frames but not this bike.

But a smaller frame is more toss-able. For me, it's more fun.


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## froutts (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the replies, 

I now have found a 2016 in large in stock in one shop - probably the last left in the country. But that is a large ( about 19") and I can get it for about $1150 nzd, or I can get a used 2013 20" for $600 nzd.

I did ride a 2014 19" for a time and that was a decent fit, so maybe the 20" with a shorter stem and wider bars ?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

6'2" on a 20" with a Thomson setback post, 60mm stem and 720mm bars.


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## froutts (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks Nordieboy,

Looks like it could work for me, a straight seat post maybe 50mm stem. Do you think a 5'11" could make your bike work?


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

i also have a 20" but it's too small for me, 6'3" (115mm stem). I'm looking for an XL to replace it. 

you should easily be able to ride a 19-20" at 5'11". the other thing to consider is geo as it progressed a bit from 2013 to 2016. the older being a little more traditional XC geo (which i like for this kind of bike) and the newer frames are a little more "trail".


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## froutts (Feb 9, 2010)

Hmmm, I do like the newer trail bike geo. and I imagine that could work well for me on this type of bike. But at doublet price, I think I may stick to the 20" used. Thanks for the reply.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Single speed, no problem.
Geared, short stem, straight post, seat forward...

I was running mine for XC racing with a 100mm stem with no problems.


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

froutts said:


> Hi all Kona Unit lovers.
> Please help me choose size for a unit. I am 5'11",...


froutts, i am 5'10'', i had full suspension specialized stumpjumpers in M and L. i felt much better on M that i did on the newer L. when i went to buy my unit, i naturally looked for M. in the test ride M felt a bit too cramped, it's single speed, you will spend quite some time pedaling while standing. no fun to have to cockpit between your knees all the time. so i took the L version, never regretted.
Later i added a geared honzo to the collection, chose M, perfect fit.
so i think the unit can or should be a tad larger than your suspension bikes would be. 20'' might be too large though.
test ride them, feel them and then decide.
good luck and welcome to the club 
hazz


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## froutts (Feb 9, 2010)

Great to hear thanks hazz. I have got a 20". Should be fine. Coincidentally I have just this weekend accidentally bought a steel honzo 2016 ! Is yours the steel, and how do you find it climbing? That's the only concern I think I have about it - obviously before I've evne ridden it!


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

accidentally! lol! i love you man!
i have the 2015 steel honzo. it's a great bike, it's fun, it's climbing, no problem.
i used to call it my "last" bike, just nothing left to top it, especially since i still keep the unit, split the yearly 4000 kms equally between the two.
the only downside of my honzo is its weight, 14.5 kg including pedals, bottle holder, tubeless, saddle bag with spare tube and few tools.
i ride for fun and for fitness and prefer the bike sturdy over light.

have fun with your bikes!


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

I got my 2016 Unit down to 23.5 lbs.

Here's a recent pic with the titanium fork and some carbon bits.

This bike really livens up when it's light.










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## isis07734 (Apr 3, 2012)

Damn.. that's light! Did you go tubeless too?


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## tk1971 (Aug 10, 2007)

isis07734 said:


> Damn.. that's light! Did you go tubeless too?


Yep, tubeless, carbon handlebar, stem and seatpost. XT crankset (175mm vs stock 170 FSA) but not sure that lost weight. I'm pretty sure the XT hydro brakes gained some weight. Even kept the stock tires which appear to be wire beaded. The rear hub was replaced recently as well but I don't think there was any weight reduction with that. The weight loss was mainly the titanium fork and carbon bits plus running tubeless.

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## BartP (Mar 16, 2013)

The Unit becomes a rocket when made light, loving it. Started as a stock bike but changed all parts except for the frame itself. Not sure about weight but i think its in the 20-21 lbs range.










Kona Unit 2015 frame (M)
Niner RDO fork
Hope headset, BB, brakes & rotors 
Syntace Vector & P6 highflex
X0 crank with XX1 spider & ring (34T)
LB 34/28 rims with DT350 hubs (12x142)
Racing Ralph 2.25 (F) & 2.10 (R) with Stan's
15T cog, KMC X9SL, Fizik Tundra 2, ESI grips


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ nice build.


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## TDK08 (Jan 30, 2014)

Alright, I'm thinking about another upgrade. Anybody running 27.5+ on their 2013 units? If so what rim and tire combo are you able to fit in the back? I'm thinking lightest tires I can find in the 2.8" width, as well as lightest alu rims


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

TDK08 said:


> Alright, I'm thinking about another upgrade. Anybody running 27.5+ on their 2013 units? If so what rim and tire combo are you able to fit in the back? I'm thinking lightest tires I can find in the 2.8" width, as well as lightest alu rims


go back a page or two, pretty sure it won't fit.


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## xcracer87 (Dec 30, 2005)

In the market for a new SS frame. I am 6'1" with a 33" inseam. Could I make a medium frame work or should I settle for a large? Keep in mind I am a elite racer and I prefer a quick steering, "flick-able" bike. thanks


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

xcracer87 said:


> In the market for a new SS frame. I am 6'1" with a 33" inseam. Could I make a medium frame work or should I settle for a large? Keep in mind I am a elite racer and I prefer a quick steering, "flick-able" bike. thanks


Go large. I'm 5,10 on a large and my seatpost shoots pretty far out of the frame. We're all elite racers here at MTBR

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## xcracer87 (Dec 30, 2005)

kikoraa said:


> Go large. I'm 5,10 on a large and my seatpost shoots pretty far out of the frame. We're all elite racers here at MTBR
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the advice!

From, 
one elite racer to the other! haha


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## jmctav23 (Oct 16, 2010)

up for sale...I had a lot of great times on this Unit


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## Yuval11 (Sep 3, 2014)

Hi
I had try to put my front week 27.5+ on unit front fork 2013 and it fit. 
I do not try the rear weel it looks not fired


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

Yuval11 said:


> Hi
> I had try to put my front week 27.5+ on unit front fork 2013 and it fit.
> I do not try the rear weel it looks not fired


Which 27.5+ tire did you fit in the Unit fork?


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## Yuval11 (Sep 3, 2014)

djembe975 said:


> Which 27.5+ tire did you fit in the Unit fork?


I try 27.5x3.0 WTB taken from my unit 2017


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## djembe975 (Apr 12, 2008)

That explains it, I had a 2013 and couldn't fit a plus tire in it but the Trailblazer tire is a bit narrow more like a 2.4 at the tread.


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## Yuval11 (Sep 3, 2014)

I had change my Unit 2014 to Unit 2017 only for this fat wheels


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## singletrackkid (Jan 15, 2007)

xcracer87 said:


> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> From,
> one elite racer to the other! haha


Agreed... I'm 6'0" with a 34" inseam and ride a large. I'm actually selling my 2013 Unit (see classifieds or contact me if interested).


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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

After jumping on the plus bandwagon I'm thinking of selling my beautiful purple unit to get the new plus model  

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## clone185 (Nov 3, 2011)

I'm looking at getting a 2016 Kona Unit but I'm having trouble deciding on the correct size. There are none available to test ride where I live so I will need to have it shipped to me. I've read all off the posts regarding sizing and I'm still a little unsure. I've looked at the 2014, 2015 & 2016 geometry charts and it seems that the sizing has changed for 2016. Based on the top tube measurement I'm thinking a medium would suit but based on reach I'm thing a large. Like a previous poster has mentioned I also feel more comfortable on a medium stumpjumper than a large. I've owned a large 2010 stumpjumper and always felt the bike was too big, 90mm stock stem didn't help. I'm roughly 5.10 maybe 5.11 on a good day. Any help would be appreciated. 

What is the stem length on the medium and the large bikes?

For reference my previous bikes have all been mediums, 2011 Anthem 29er, 2013 Reign, 2015 Reign


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## Kisherceg (Mar 5, 2007)

_edit:_ opsss, I almost posted my unit (2017) here, but noted it's not SS (now). maybe I will try it as SS (I own on other SS too now) in the future and will post a pic or two then! BTW, very nice bikes, guys, I collected much inspiration from your pics, thank you!


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*broken fork update*



HaZZarDaZZle said:


> i couldn't find anywhere on the net, but
> has anyone experienced or heard of a p2 fork collapsing?
> we had an incident in the community these days, the guy is probably still hospitalized.
> two of my friends and me ride the 2013 rigid too, them pretty much panicking right now swearing not to get onto their units until replacing the forks for squishy ones. we do technical rocky trails so the bike really gets its share.
> ...


update: i met the guy today. it was the original kona p2 fork that snapped. probably a combination of weight, force and bad luck.
he recovered and put in a new p2 and keeps on single speeding.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> update: i met the guy today. it was the original kona p2 fork that snapped. probably a combination of weight, force and bad luck.
> he recovered and put in a new p2 and keeps on single speeding.


Did he buy the bike new?

Those lower legs still look suspicious. The only P2's that had a fully tapering leg were the 700c versions even going back to the 26" versions.
Usually the P2's are stamped/painted as such.


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

I zoomed in on those legs. They don't look like mine do.

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## kikoraa (Jul 25, 2011)

I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

i25 would be too close to what you're running. i29 isn't TOO wide by any means.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

yep, i29


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

NordieBoy said:


> i25 would be too close to what you're running. i29 isn't TOO wide by any means.


the honzo 2015 comes with i25 and ardent 2.4 in front, why would that be too close?


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## OliSS (Feb 14, 2011)

kikoraa said:


> I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?


I just built up a wheelset using WTB Asym i29's for my 2010 unit. Currently running Maxxis Forecaster 2.35 front, Ardent race 2.35 rear.

Definitely an improvement over my i23 rims, much more stability and can run much lower pressures. Tyres remain nice an round but have gained volume. Having said that I am interested in going down the WTB route for tyres, maybe a 2.4 Trailboss.

What are your concerns around tyres bulging? Clearance?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> the honzo 2015 comes with i25 and ardent 2.4 in front, why would that be too close?


Too close, as in the 2015 Unit already has an i23 wheelset.


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## Pucker Factor (Jan 10, 2004)

Hey everyone,

I've been lurking the singlespeed forum for a while since I just picked up a used 2015 Unit last October. You guys have a great community...I've gained a lot of information here and it's nice to see everyone helping each other out (not always the case in other forums).

So I thought I'd put up some pics of my Unit (haha), which by now only has the frame, saddle, and wheels as stock.


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

That's a nice build. I can't wait to get mine up and running again.

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## stepping-razor (Aug 15, 2008)

hi,

i have a 2012 Kona Unit single speed and want to substitute the original FSA cranks. I know nothing about what might fit and work. Could someone please tell me what size/type of BB i need and if there's anything in particular i need to look for in terms of cranks (will 10 speed or 11 speed slx or raceface cranks work?).

thank you


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

Anything Euro threaded will work. Just don't get fat bike cranks. Try to find cranks that use outboard or external bottom bracket cups. You have your pick of SRAM Shimano Race Face Etc. You could even run profile racing cranks with profile racing external bb cups.

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## stepping-razor (Aug 15, 2008)

RickyFiggz said:


> Anything Euro threaded will work. Just don't get fat bike cranks. Try to find cranks that use outboard or external bottom bracket cups. You have your pick of SRAM Shimano Race Face Etc. You could even run profile racing cranks with profile racing external bb cups.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


thank you rickyfiggz. is there an axle size i need to specifically look for?


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

stepping-razor said:


> thank you rickyfiggz. is there an axle size i need to specifically look for?


the bottom bracket you need for the crankset will be specifc to the crankset and has very little to do with the frame. if you get any moderen crankset, the spindle will be permanently attached to one of the arms. you just have to get a bottom bracket that goes with that crankset.


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## Pucker Factor (Jan 10, 2004)

RickyFiggz said:


> That's a nice build. I can't wait to get mine up and running again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


Thanks!

By the way, I saw someone mentioned that they were thinking about the WTB Trail Boss tires...I'm using the 2.4s and I'm loving them on this bike. Stock i23 rims.


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## stepping-razor (Aug 15, 2008)

mack_turtle said:


> the bottom bracket you need for the crankset will be specifc to the crankset and has very little to do with the frame. if you get any moderen crankset, the spindle will be permanently attached to one of the arms. you just have to get a bottom bracket that goes with that crankset.


thank you mack_turtle!!!


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## Brisk Snail (Oct 15, 2013)

kikoraa said:


> I have a 2015 and really need to build a new wheeleset. I was trying to decide between i25 and i29. I run ardent or Nobby nic 2.4 and was hoping it wouldn't bulge too much on an i29. What do you guys think?


I might be too choosy, but I ran Ardents 2.4 on Mavic 729 (29mm iw) and on Asym i35 (35mm iw) and found 729 rim are a bit too narrow for a proper 2.4 tire.
Before all that "wide rims fuss" were even here, I was running normal 2.2-2.5 tires on wide trials rims and the amount of traction and bump compliance that setup had (even on mid to higher pressures) made me a strong supporter of wider rims. To my mind, you will no way be able to reach any excessive bulging with ~30mm internal width rims anyway...


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## OliSS (Feb 14, 2011)

Pucker Factor said:


> Thanks!
> 
> By the way, I saw someone mentioned that they were thinking about the WTB Trail Boss tires...I'm using the 2.4s and I'm loving them on this bike. Stock i23 rims.


Yep that was me, what's the rear clearance like? Running Maxxis AR 2.35 currently and have about 5mm between tyre and chainstays.


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## Pucker Factor (Jan 10, 2004)

OliSS said:


> Yep that was me, what's the rear clearance like? Running Maxxis AR 2.35 currently and have about 5mm between tyre and chainstays.


I haven't measured it but I would say there's adequate clearance. You'll only have trouble if you hit some really sticky mud.


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

stepping-razor said:


> thank you mack_turtle!!!


I'm not trying to sell you in. But, this is a great value that includes the bottom bracket and will accomadate a 10 speed drive train. (68-73mm) bb spacing is the norm for modern setups. That kit should include spacers too but you don't need them since the unit has 73mm bb spacing.









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## stepping-razor (Aug 15, 2008)

RickyFiggz said:


> I'm not trying to sell you in. But, this is a great value that includes the bottom bracket and will accomadate a 10 speed drive train. (68-73mm) bb spacing is the norm for modern setups. That kit should include spacers too but you don't need them since the unit has 73mm bb spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thank you! i will look into it!


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## TDK08 (Jan 30, 2014)

If anyone's interested I've got a 2013 18" Kona Unit frame with carbon Ritchie fork for sale.


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## stepping-razor (Aug 15, 2008)

hi, can someone please recommend a reliable dropper post that would fit a 2012 kona unit?

thank you

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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

TMARS, Thomson, Gravity Dropper.
The Thomson is the most expensive and nicest.
I've got the cheapest one. TMARS. It works.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Hoping someone can help me out. A used 2013 Unit came up for sale locally, and it's my size. Having a tough time putting a value on the bike, was wondering what you all think a good condition 2013 Unit would be worth? Thanks.


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## randyharris (Jul 1, 2009)

pade said:


> Hoping someone can help me out. A used 2013 Unit came up for sale locally, and it's my size. Having a tough time putting a value on the bike, was wondering what you all think a good condition 2013 Unit would be worth? Thanks.


Here's something to go by.


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## BigBMX (Mar 22, 2018)

Hello Unit Community! Could one of you please report on the tire clearance of the 2013 Unit? I am a desert dweller and need very little space for mud or snow. 

You will be saving me a few hours drive for possibly nothing! 

If you care for specifics, I have a i35 rims. 

Back story, I've had a Redline Monocog since 2010, just got a new '18 Honzo ST (LOOOVE IT!), and a '13 Unit went up for sale in may area and the Monocog's small tire clearance and toe overlap issues are making me wan to replace it with the Unit.

Thank you in advance!
~John (BigBMX)


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

What size tire are you interested in running? 

The 2013 unit will easily clear any 29x2.4" tire, and probably some 2.5's. It will not clear B+.


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## RickyFiggz (Jan 11, 2014)

This might help I found this somewhere in the forums.









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## BigBMX (Mar 22, 2018)

A 2.4" would be good. I'd love to tuck a 29x2.6" Rekon in there... Thank you for the help, Ricky and OneSpeed!


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

*Update on my Unit 2013*

I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.







The frame broke, and that breaks my heart.
5 years and 7200 km of pure fun with a perfect bike that never complained and endured much more than i expected.

Thank you Kona, I loved that bike


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## m0ngy (Dec 22, 2005)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.
> Thank you Kona, I loved that bike


Steel should be repairable.


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## pade (May 20, 2007)

Might as well try getting a warranty replacement if you're the original owner. 

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## Kisherceg (Mar 5, 2007)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> I never got tired of my Unit 2013, but finally it got tired of me.


sorry to see your frame broken. 5yrs/7200km does not seem too much of a lifespan for a steel frame, to be honest.

are you a heavyweight or agressive rider? (just curious, since i have a 2015 Unit and my biggest fear is to see it as your someday...)

i cannot imagine why kona has applied this 'yoke' for the last 5-6 years.  the right side is so frighteningly thin... :eekster:

warranty replacement may work, yes, but i can't help thinking of the sh.t geo of the 2017-2018-2019 models... :madman:


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## godbout.t (Mar 19, 2009)

*I did a thing!*

I did a weird thing. 
Got sick of pedal strikes and low bottom brackets. Sold my 2018 Stumpy to get this gorgeous Orange 2013 Kona Unit! 








Got it at a bike swap and sold the stumpy the next day, the GEO is a dream

After reading through this forum I am planning to make it a single speed or 1x10(NH hills!). got some 2.4 Ardents ready to mount and a lovely dropper post.

I'm going out this weekend for a long ride to try out how I like rigid single speed. Wish me luck.

Any thoughts on a 100mm fork if I do decide to go that direction?


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## DPeper (Jan 24, 2013)

godbout.t said:


> I did a weird thing.
> Got sick of pedal strikes and low bottom brackets. Sold my 2018 Stumpy to get this gorgeous Orange 2013 Kona Unit!
> View attachment 1250580
> 
> ...


That's how we all end up here. We get sick of rebuilding suspensions pedaling slow in the easiest gear and wanting to ride a new Trail that we've ridden a thousand times. I tried all that stuff and just went super basic. No dropper but post carbon. No remote lockout fork go rigid carbon Fork. High engagement hub and a nice wheelset. Quality Carbon Bar. I tried those build ideas at some point but the dropper and the forks ended up not feeling as good as the raw animal a rigid bike can be. Each finds their own way to SS but we are all pumped to find one another on the trail. Sounds like an awesome build. Keep it up. One ladt thing i would go through BB regularly. Tip of the day is Shimano xtr. Cheap and nice.


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ sweet! I'm jealous. 

I wasn't a fan of the P2 fork, switched to carbon fork and was much happier. High volume tubeless tires are key for ride comfort on a rigid bike. 

100mm fork? Well, if you have to.  Realistically if this is your only bike it will make the bike more versatile, more comfortable on rough terrain or longer rides, and faster going down. 

The tradeoff isn't too bad, but once you experience the efficiency of doing standing climbs with a rigid fork nothing else compares. 

Sweet bike!


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## godbout.t (Mar 19, 2009)

Yeah the BB is going to be swapped out once the "grind" and noises begins. 

Wheels will be one day soon as well, hopefully carbon. the dropper is something to try, if its no good, then it goes back and ill probably add in some carbon parts: stem, handlebars, seatpost, etc. 

Thanks for the advice and tips though!


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## godbout.t (Mar 19, 2009)

*OneSpeed* said:


> ^ sweet! I'm jealous.
> 
> I wasn't a fan of the P2 fork, switched to carbon fork and was much happier. High volume tubeless tires are key for ride comfort on a rigid bike.
> 
> ...


From your signature list of bikes, I think we will be best friends!
tubeless for sure, right now its a mix match wheel set. an i23 rim and a XM119. I'll setup them hub gorilla tubeless and see how they do.

I wouldn't mind the 100mm suspension, mainly on the descents and rock gardens but i think learning to put less weight in my arm and more in the pedals will help. All about learning how to ride rigid.

Thanks for the advice and enjoy your sweet rides man!


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## Kisherceg (Mar 5, 2007)

Ok, so I was thinking about doing this for a while but I was too lazy to do the wrenching and my Unit was entertaining in its original set-up. But today I had the time and moved ahead, put 650B wheels (robbed from my 45650B) in my 2015 Unit. ...and made a test-ride of course. It was interesting... 



















Bottom-line: although the bike behaved as awesome as always and the wheel-swap didn't cause any unexpected problems, I'll go back to 29er wheels. The change (buying another set of 650B wheels for this bike) simple wouldn't worth the cost. Instead I will spend the money on lighter 29er rims to lighten up the Unit a bit.


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## wvmountaineerx (Aug 19, 2012)

KristofferR said:


> Here's a pic of my stock 2013 Unit in 22". It looks less tall and gangly IRL.
> 
> Updates since my first rides (ice&snow) are the stock tires are back on and Ritchey WCS foam grips, plus some reflective tape in an attempt to comply with the law.
> 
> ...


Hi, replying to post made very long ago. However, I have wrenching question. Can someone point me to what type of socket/tool I need to tighten the lock-ring that holds the rear cog onto on the rear hub? The lock-ring is pictured on the 2nd photo of this post. Any help is appreciated, thanks!


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## wvmountaineerx (Aug 19, 2012)

I did a quick mark-up and pointed to the lock-ring in question. Sorry I am a forum kook so hopefully photo got uploaded correctly. Thanks!


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## HaZZarDaZZle (Jun 8, 2014)

hi,
you need a fixed gear lock ring wrench like the park tool hcw-17
https://www.parktool.com/product/fixed-gear-lockring-wrench-hcw-17
i have it and used the 41-42 side (the smaller side) of the tool for my late kona unit 2013 lock ring.


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## wvmountaineerx (Aug 19, 2012)

HaZZarDaZZle said:


> hi,
> you need a fixed gear lock ring wrench like the park tool hcw-17
> https://www.parktool.com/product/fixed-gear-lockring-wrench-hcw-17
> i have it and used the 41-42 side (the smaller side) of the tool for my late kona unit 2013 lock ring.


Thank you! Forgot to mention mine is a 2014 but took a look @ Kona archives and these appear to be identical so that HCW-17 should be the ticket! Thank you very much for your help, Hazzard!


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## wvmountaineerx (Aug 19, 2012)

While I'm here, I have a 2014 Unit with about 2,700 miles on it. Converted it to have a 38T chainring and Maxxis BMX Grifters so I could stomp out commutes a little quicker.

This weekend I had to send my Kona Process in for repairs and the shop is backlogged so it's going to be a while 'til I get that on the trail again - so I grabbed the Unit and went a little Mad Max to make it a little mountain bike again. 
- Reverted back to stock 32T chainring
- slapped on some Shimano hydraulic brakes
- swapped 2.0 BMX slicks for Minion DHF 2.5 front & back

Before:








After:


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

wvmountaineerx said:


> Converted it to have a 38T chainring and Maxxis BMX Grifters so I could stomp out commutes a little quicker.


I just retired my 2011 Unit from dirt duty and yesterday converted to 32/14 with Maxxis BMX Torches. Looked real close at the Grifters before tossing a coin and buying the Torches. How are the Grifters on there?

No pic, yours is far prettier. 2014 is my favorite year for the Unit.


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## wvmountaineerx (Aug 19, 2012)

Ryder1 said:


> How are the Grifters on there?


Grifters have been pretty solid - although on pavement only (and rightly so, that's all they're made for). If you try to crossover to some dirt or grass during your ride & have to do any speedy turning - it's like having bald tires on ice. However, I don't think I can even find Grifters in a 29er flavor anymore online. Did you find Torches in 29? I think originally I was trying choose between Torches & Grifters and Grifter was the only one I could find that size.

Thanks for the compliment, though. I found that with the flat Denver metro riding, I kept buying bigger chainrings 'til I settled on a Rental 38T to keep a comfortable 14-18mph cadence.


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## Ryder1 (Oct 12, 2006)

wvmountaineerx said:


> Did you find Torches in 29?


 Found 29x2.1 on ebay. Look really similar to Grifter but with Silkworm protection and 120tpi.


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## Jono_SK (Feb 11, 2019)

Aaron Bleakley said:


> HI!
> 
> So... after converting my 2016 Kona Process 153 to 27.5+ I tried to fit those wheels into my Unit. Front easily went in, and the back looked like it would be good, but as that wheel wasn't QR (it is 142) I wasn't 100% sure. SO I built up a wheelset with WTB I29 and got some more Maxxis Rekons.


On the 27.5 wheels - whats the max tire size you can fit in your 2015 Kona Unit? I'm curious if the frame can take plus size tires. Even 2.6" would be fine by me, if there's enough clearance. 
Looking at getting a used Unit


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

^ IDK that the 2015 was much different than what I posted below, but at the time this was accurate and both of these frames were made before they converted it to B+.

2.6? maybe but you should also consider BB drop from the smaller wheels/tires. I may not be a good idea.



*OneSpeed* said:


> What size tire are you interested in running?
> 
> The 2013 unit will easily clear any 29x2.4" tire, and probably some 2.5's. It will not clear B+.


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## TrustyAxe (Dec 21, 2020)

Since we're talking Unit's...Here is my 2017 SS 29er. Lots of goodies on this bike and every time I think about selling it... I ride it and change my mind.


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## chazpat (Sep 23, 2006)

TrustyAxe said:


> Since we're talking Unit's...Here is my 2017 SS 29er. Lots of goodies on this bike and every time I think about selling it... I ride it and change my mind.
> View attachment 1908251
> 
> 
> View attachment 1908252


Dude, this is a thread about 2013 Units, let's stay on topic.

Here's my 2017 and 2018 btw. 


















I've swapped the wheels/tires between the two since these pix.


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