# Is my Yukon worth upgrading?



## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

I have a 2010 Yukon FX and I'm starting to notice a significant amount of oil on my front fork(RockShox Dart 2 100mm). I want to upgrade it but can I buy anything better than I already have for ~$200? The nicest bike I've been on is a Trance X4(RockShox Tora 302, 120mm) and I loved the way it handled jumps. I know absolutely nothing about upgrading so any advice would be great.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

What the fork? Is it the rockshox Dart2 that came on the bike? Have you had the fork serviced before, if not, it may be due for one.
Upgrading any low to mid priced bike can become a very expensive exercise to the point where you should use and thrash the bike you have and save your pennies for another bike.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

It's stock and I've never had it serviced before. About how much would that cost? 

I was hoping on getting some opinions on either to upgrade or save the cash. I'll be heading off to college in the fall and I know I won't have the kind of money laying around for a new bike anytime soon. I don't want to sink money into this bike if I won't see any real results.

I edited my original post to show the forks.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

FS Yukon is a pretty good bike and worth putting a bit of money into it. That's said it's not a comparison to the Trance. If you need to get the fork service then it should not cost that much may be $50-75. 

Another option is to get a used fork. Look for 100-120mm travel, Reba is a good choice. It would take a bit of homework to find the right one in good condition.


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## hardwarz (Jun 12, 2009)

I own a couple of these Rockshox Recon Silver TK (Solo Air) and LOVE them. I also have a Tora SL Solo Air. The Recon is lighter than the Tora, but that's about it.

PerformanceBike - bikes, bike accessories, bike gear, cycling equipment, cycling apparel, and more


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

I have the same bike and fork, mines getting replaced with an X fusion Velvet RL. Its a $400 fork. The Enix RL is a similar fork and around the $250 mark before tax and such. For less than $200 id have to go with that Recon hardwarz posted. If I could find one in white without the canti posts id be all over it.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

It'd be worth putting some money into, but the less the bike cost new, the less it's it's worth upgrading. Also, the older it is, the less it's worth upgrading although that's not going to be a direct relationship. Something more expensive is likely to be serviceable for longer and worth spending some money on it over time.

Servicing what you've got is always a good choice until the cost of that service starts to approach replacement cost.

In the case of a Dart fork which isn't really all that great in the first place, you could keep your costs down by buying a used fork of some nicer model. It will probably still require some servicing and you need to be careful that you don't buy one that's been totally thrashed and will cost more than it's worth. So yeah, some homework will be necessary if you go that route.

If it were me, I'd have the current fork serviced for now while keeping my eye out for just the right deal on just the right fork. Since you'd be bargain hunting, you wouldn't want to just buy something because it looks good and be blinded to certain tell-tale signs that you're being ripped off.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

I'm going to do some research and look around. Hypothetically, if I find a fork in good condition that's 100m to 120mm can I just get it and throw it on my bike? Is there any measurement I need to look for? Would a fork for a large frame fit a medium frame?

What would be the minimum price range for me to upgrade? Just in case my bike shop decides to over charge me. 

I think I just over loaded post with questions but I'm still a newb.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

You need a 1 1/8" straight steerer tube. I plan on replacing my headset with a bit nicer model when I swap forks but if theres nothing wrong with yours then theres no reason to replace it. Im not sure how a 120mm fork would feel on this bike but forks like the recon and the velvet have adjustable travel, so if you decided you disliked the 120mm you could adjust it back down to 100.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

steerer tube diameter AND length! measure the steerer on your current fork and that should be the MINIMUM you look for.

try to keep the travel the same as what you have now, or at least within 20mm. changing fork travel will change geometry. that might work for the bike you have but it probably won't. going too much longer will put stresses on the frame and increase the chances that you'll break it at the headtube.


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## pattongb (Jun 5, 2011)

These threads always worry me. A lot of the Vets around here tend to steer newer riders towards saving money instead of upgrading older bikes and then buying new.

I dont know if its just because of the higher weight of older bikes, the usually slight difference in geometry from one year to the next, or a lot of the guys here either 1-have tons of money and dont realize that many of us dont, or 2- own bike shops and want people to buy buy buy.

Look if you like the frame, the way it feels underneath you, the way it handles etc...As long as its not a monster weight wise, why not upgrade it?

I bought a 2005 NRS3 Giant and was hounded to not spend a penny on upgrading it by a lot of people on this forum when I asked for upgrade ideas.

I upgraded it anyways. BB7 breaks, X7 drive train, Recon Fork.....total cost, about $800. What can I get at a local shop for $800? Nothing even close.

Upgrade if you like the bike.


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

pattongb said:


> I upgraded it anyways. BB7 brakes (fixed it), X7 drive train, Recon Fork.....total cost, about $800. *What can I get at a local shop for $800? Nothing even close.*
> 
> Upgrade if you like the bike.


I often "see" last years model on sale for around $1000. These have Rebas and SLX/X7.

I know it's in Australia (but so am I and it's a 22inch but that would fit me) 
2011 Marin Nail Trail.

IMHO it is always cheaper to buy an entire new bike than buy some parts. The beauty of a new bike is you can sell off the parts you don't use or better still ride the new bike.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

My problem is, I love the bike and hate the fork. And a fork is still cheaper than a new bike. Sooooo, fork it is.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

In general, if you can get a deal on a component, you can get a better deal on a complete bike.

The trap with upgrading entry-level bikes is that one is not upgrading in a vacuum. The nice new fork or whatever is going on a bike with other components appropriate to a bike at its pricepoint. I think that what a lot of more experienced riders are visualizing happening is that a poster will get a nice new (or lightly used, whatever) fork and stick it on the front of a bike with a bunch of Acera components, terrible wheels, crappy brakes, etc. That tends to go fine for a chunk of a season, and then the next shoe drops. The brakes blow up, a chainring wears out and it turns out that the crank doesn't have replaceable rings, whatever. There's another expensive purchase. Drivetrain parts? Even worse - they cost a lot aftermarket, resell badly, and wear out.

My own bike is a poster child for this kind of thing. I'm generally pretty happy with it right now, but the only stock components left are the seatpost, seat clamp, and some (not all) of the headset spacers. I had an idea this might happen, but I started racing XC when I had a lot of time and no money on my hands. As long as that bike was rolling, I felt somewhat tied to it. However, if I could get back the money I've bolted to it and spend it all at once on a bike through the channels I used to buy components, I'd have a lot more bike.

I was thinking about doing the frame swap that a lot of people say they're planning to do. There're actually some really beautiful 26" race hardtail frames in carbon fiber available for pretty reasonable prices. But for the one I looked at, I'd need to replace the usual things - seatpost and clamp - the front derailleur, and the crank would need a weird adapter. I would probably have gone through with it if a demo of a 29er didn't sell me on one of those as my next racer.  For someone with a full suspension frame, though, it's likely to be worse. XC race frames are somewhat insulated from the yearly increases in suspension travel. A lot are still recommended for 80mm forks, or the manufacturer suggests that a person choose based on preferred handling style. FS frames, on the other hand, get a little taller every couple years, and there's a bunch of new axle standards. That's two large ticket items that might not move over - the fork and the wheels - as well as small stuff. This is assuming that the new frame comes with an appropriate shock, which is not always true, and people often upgrade shocks, something that often won't move over.

OP - so you want a new fork. Great. Is your longer-term plan to stick with this bike? If so, $200 is a pretty reasonable amount to spend on the project, and with some smart shopping you should see a pretty substantial improvement in performance. I think some good specific models have been suggested, so you might follow up on those. Look on EBay, find out what your LBS can get you, etc. There are also a ton of "what fork for $xxx" threads, so you can look at those too. To me, the fork is an important enough system that this is a time to ask yourself if that's what you really want, though. Don't plan based on the idea that you'll be able to get much money or even componentry back out of your current bike, and you won't be disappointed.


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## newfangled (Sep 13, 2010)

I put a Manitou R7 on my 2009 Yukon (hardtail, not FS), and it completely changed the bike.

All the Manitou forks use their ABS+ damper, which is much better than the Turnkey damper that is in your Dart2, but is also in most Toras and Recons. The R7 is Manitou's fancy race fork (I only got it because it was on sale), but the Minute or Match perform just as well but are a bit heavier. If you check ebay and the other online sites you might be able to find a deal on one of them.

(The caveat is that I'll always want a 4" xc hardtail in my stable, and if my Yukon ever dies I'll happily move the components onto a similar frame like an onone inbred or soma analog. But if I was leaning towards a tapered headtube, 20mm thruaxle, or a 29er for the future then I'd think about changing the bike instead of the fork)


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Wow, I honestly didn't expect this kind of input. Is suspension something you want to upgrade as a whole? If I see significant improvement on my fork, will I be here in a week asking about replacing my rear shock? 

And does anyone here ride FATS?


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

WillT said:


> Wow, I honestly didn't expect this kind of input. Is suspension something you want to upgrade as a whole? If I see significant improvement on my fork, will I be here in a week asking about replacing my rear shock?


Most likely! Once the upgrade bug bites you it's hard to know when to stop

Most of the time you will be improving your bike anyway by updating to newer/better components, so as long as you don't worry to much about the long term cost go for it.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

Im not the most experienced rider but ive had my butt on a good handful of "entry level" FS bikes and the Giant proprietary air shock feels pretty good. Im sure a Monarch or a Fox would feel much better on it, but I cant see enough of a difference to warrant the price in upgrading. And like was mentioned earlier I will eventually upgrade to a higher end bike (most likely a trance) and Id rather not have a ton of money tied up in this one.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

WillT - I don't actually like full suspension bikes. The only one I've found relatively okay, of those I've demoed, was the Giant Anthem. What made it more acceptable for me was that it didn't pogo when I climbed and moved around on it. I don't know how good the shock on the Yukon is. For me, bobbing is unacceptable. I "know" it doesn't really absorb that much power, but still... So, if your shock isn't tunable enough to control that kind of thing, to me it would be a relative no-brainer to get one that is.

SuperSlow - if you haven't ordered that fork yet, this sounds like a good time to stop bolting money to your Yukon. Extra travel may or may not screw it up, but the Trance is built for 125mm of travel and a tapered steer tube. It looks like it also takes a different kind of bottom bracket and ships with a thru-axle fork.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

Im going to be on my Yukon for the better part of this next year as Im going to have to put an engine in my Camaro which wont be....cheap. The dart fork is totally unacceptable as a fork can be. Spending the money on the fork will make the bike more enjoyable to ride in the meantime and isnt a ton of money. Besides the fact that were going to building my wife a bike next year as well and the new fork will mostly end up on her bike.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

My midlife crisis car fantasy is spec. Miata. Probably goes well with the current interest in endurance racing - both disciplines are really not about the gear.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

My camaro is my toy and my daily driver and the current motor is starting to burn oil which im guessing is due to rings. Ive been wanting an excuse to put a fresh forged ls6 in it for awhile anyways lol.  Sorry for the slight threadjack.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

SuperSlow35th said:


> Im not the most experienced rider but ive had my butt on a good handful of "entry level" FS bikes and the Giant proprietary air shock feels pretty good. Im sure a Monarch or a Fox would feel much better on it, but I cant see enough of a difference to warrant the price in upgrading. And like was mentioned earlier I will eventually upgrade to a higher end bike (most likely a trance) and Id rather not have a ton of money tied up in this one.


+1:thumbsup:
There's no need to upgrade the rear shock. Giant OE shock does the job quite well. The FX does not require any lockout to pedal well. Putting $200-$350 on shock is not a good idea. It's much better to just put that money toward the new bike


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

@AndrwSwitch I'm sure you're a lot more experienced than me but it's all about your method pedaling to work with the bob. I keep my shock on a lower PSI just so I can preload more on jumps. Climbing I have zero bob and I ride my bike hard.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

WillT said:


> @AndrwSwitch I'm sure you're a lot more experienced than me but it's all about your method pedaling to work with the bob. I keep my shock on a lower PSI just so I can preload more on jumps. Climbing I have zero bob and I ride my bike hard.


Good answer you find the technique to fit your riding style.


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## Eckstream1 (Jul 27, 2011)

I rode a bike with a Dart 2 for years... Yes it's not the best. But neither am I...
Get what I'm saying?

I would just ride what you have while you save your pennies for a Trance...


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

Eckstream1 said:


> I rode a bike with a Dart 2 for years... Yes it's not the best. But neither am I...
> Get what I'm saying?
> 
> I would just ride what you have while you save your pennies for a Trance...


I like that. I think I'll just save the cash. There's no telling how bikes will be in 4 years.


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## mrice0118 (Nov 28, 2009)

I have a 2010 Yukon FX as well. I just upgraded the fork to a 2010 SR Suntour RLD from ebay for $200. Completely changed the bike for the better.


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## r29 (Mar 12, 2010)

I have the same bike.
Depends what you intend to do with the bike.
If you dont plan on riding it often once in college.

you can keep the yukon and upgrade the fork to reba rl or recon gold rl or x fusion or fox f32 depending on your budget. A lot of online sites have some great deals so you might be able to find something in your price range.

If you plan to do some more serious all-mountain/freeride type then I would save the money and upgrade to trance x2 or reign x2


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Yukon is just as good as or better than many FS design in the past. It's a bargain really, it's got some weight and spec disadvantage but not the ride quality for sure. 

I suggested a buddy of mine to get one for his wife when it was on sale, she's now a mountain biker.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I just got a new training book, and ran into a funny comment - he writes that in general, elite mountain bikers actually have cleaner pedaling technique than elite road riders. He thinks it's more about riding on dirt and not skidding the rear wheel.

On a fork with no dampers, I notice suspension bob when I'm on pavement but not on dirt. Off-road, I spend some time out of the saddle - kicking up a hill, starting and finishing sprints, getting out of the saddle for a break on an extended climb, etc. That's when I notice and am bothered by suspension that doesn't filter out rider and pedal input. (Also, nosediving under braking. Hate that!) I also don't use suspension preload for hops. IMHO, if I can't do a skill on a rigid bike with flat pedals, I can't do that skill. Not that I don't use my clipless to cheat when I have them.  Ultimately, though, while I continue to work on my pedaling technique, being able to get out of the saddle is a tool I'm not willing to give up. I want my bikes to reflect the techniques that are effective for me, not the other way around.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

Ive noticed absolutely zero negative effects from my rear suspension. The front suspension? Thats another story. Really the only things on this bike I feel NEED upgrading are the front fork and the rear der.


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## r29 (Mar 12, 2010)

rear der? whats wrong with the rear? 8spd is plenty. 
I know what you mean by front fork. dart 2 is fine for normal ride but bigger jumps I fear it will bottom out on me.

maybe get a new wheelset and fork to lighten up the bike?


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

I dont know about his but even with 3 trips to the LBS to have the X4 rear der adjusted it still doesnt shift like I think it ought to.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

^^^
Learn to do it yourself.

Drivetrains tend to behave a little differently when someone's riding the bike than when the bike's on a work stand. Unless your derailleur has developed some play, it should be perfectly possible to tune it.

It also helps if the pivots are clean, and if anywhere that the cable runs on an exposed guide is clean. On a lot of hardtails, this would mean a point under the bottom bracket, but I don't know how it's routed on the Yukon. You can also add a spot of lube to pivots and exposed guides, but don't go crazy because it tends to make dirt stick.

If your chain or cassette is in bad shape, that'll also cause bad shifting.

If you can't get it to work when everything is nice and clean and well lubricated, try replacing the cables and housings before you replace the derailleur. It's both cheaper and more likely to improve your shifting.

parktool.com is an excellent resource for learning to do tuning and maintenance tasks on a bike. Even road riders with more money than time ought to be able to tune a drivetrain, IMHO, since it's something that can change mid-ride or when a rider gets on the bike. Mountain bikers need to know their gear even better.

EDIT: Oops, another thing to check. A bent derailleur hanger will make it impossible to tune your derailleur. I have good luck with them myself, but some posters seem to have this problem pretty frequently.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Andrew is right, DIY, and check for bend hanger.

When you say X4 does not shift like it ought to, what's it ought to shift like? The closer to the entry level shifter/der the less load you can put on during shifting. There's no noticeable difference between a entry level and premium when shifting on the flat but on the hill it's a different story.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

I have no idea how to explain it, it just feels sloppy.


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## WillT (Oct 21, 2011)

@Superslow35th I know exactly what you mean. There's a lag between gears and it's hard to get into the 8th gear. Also the front derailer you have to hold it half way, say you're going from first to second you have to gear into 2nd and then hold it for the chain to move over.


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## SuperSlow35th (Jul 22, 2011)

I dont have that issue with the front der, it seems to be fine with the exception of its kinda sluggish going into 3F. But I hardly ever use 3F as it is.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

A lot of the feel of a shift is actually just the shifter pod. Low-end Shimano works fine, you just have to live with a little longer throw. I don't know low-end SRAM - I've demoed XX and have a road bike with Rival, but that's not what we're talking about here.

Grasp the derailleur body and try to twist it. You may get a little flex, but you shouldn't get any play. On a really trashed derailleur, sometimes you can even see the body moving relative to the mounting/pivot bolt. It should take you longer than a season to do that to a derailleur, but the lower-end ones often don't wear as well - that's one of the other things you get when you pay more.

If the derailleur itself is fine but it doesn't always land in the right place when you try to shift, that's usually a cable and housing problem.


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