# Remote switch



## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Anyone done something similar to this exposure lights remote switch?
Exposure Lights:

I need one, and this looks very cool! but 35£?? Really?  Does it cost so much money to produce?..

Might anyone have an similar alternative let me know.

I want something similar to this but including a stat LED. I already have the button above with a red LED so the two would be a perfect match 









Thanks


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## ruscle (Jun 19, 2011)

I bought a mini Din finger PTT button from ebay, works perfectly and waterproof,link below:

Mini-Din Plug Finger PTT button for Pro throat mic | eBay


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## super-fast (Sep 28, 2006)

I just ordered a bunch of Cateye Remote Switches. Others have used them successfully in the past. A Led isn't going to fit in such a small switch.

At the moment almost for free: click


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

The PTT button looks good, it just needs the status LED...
I need to add it to the remote switch because I have no more space on the housing...just fins.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

sergio_pt said:


> The PTT button looks good, it just needs the status LED...
> I need to add it to the remote switch because I have no more space on the housing...just fins.


Those PTT buttons look pretty good an very cheap. If the wire running to it is 4 core my solution would be to get a surface mount or small led led and mount it the underside to the switch facing downwards then glue some 3 mm polycarbonate over the the whole lot ensuring there is a small pocket for the LED.

If the sides of the polycarbonate are polished the light from the led should shine out on all 4 sides and if a blue led is used it should be really visible because of the blues wavelength.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

That's a really cool idea brad, I could try to do that. I wonder if the wire is really 4 core. It only needs 2 I think..


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

Thanks ruscle, that looks just what I was after & have ordered a couple.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Look NOKIA has made a nice remote switch with status led! 

yep it's just my tuned version from a NOKIA headphones I found at home and nobody uses. I removed the mini microphone underneath, removed a resistor, shorted the points where the resistor was and we have a N.O. clicky switch with style. :thumbsup: It should work with maxflex.

Just need to solder the LED that stays in the exit of the headphones cables, and isolate everything with some glue. It's cheaper than buying a new one.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

anyone has experience with long cables for the remote switch with maxflex? 
In the tech section says not to use more that 10cm long cables, but I wanted to use a long cable from the helmet to the hand.
I don't know if it will work well or not..


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

sergio_pt said:


> anyone has experience with long cables for the remote switch with maxflex?
> In the tech section says not to use more that 10cm long cables, but I wanted to use a long cable from the helmet to the hand.
> I don't know if it will work well or not..


I think it is more the length of the battery cable that is crucial and not the length of the remote switch wire. Perhaps if the wire is run in parallel with the battery cable you might get induction but i'm not sure


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

sergio_pt said:


> anyone has experience with long cables for the remote switch with maxflex?
> In the tech section says not to use more that 10cm long cables, but I wanted to use a long cable from the helmet to the hand.
> I don't know if it will work well or not..


One of the early versions of the HipFlex (~3 years ago) that I built with would randomly turn on the light with a long wire (~50cm) on the switch. That was only used on the test bench, when that board was used in a real light with a ~3cm wire to the remote it was fine.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

hmm, the light randomly turning on it's not a big deal has I disconnect the wires when the light is not in use. the problem is if the light turns OFF when in use. That wouldn't be funny... 
I have to ask George if there is a workaround to use long wires for the remote switch without having this problems.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

All assembled now. I like the end result looks cool.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Sergio that looks fantastic. Good work mate.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

thanks.
I think everyone has a spare cellphone headset that can be tweaked to a remote switch.
If not, there's also a lot of them at ebay for less than 2 dollars.
They're lightweight, and always well made (if you don't tweak too much)
Now I'll put a bit of velcro beyond and it can be sticked anywhere. 

There's the idea! have fun tweaking


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## bwack (Oct 11, 2009)

Sergio. This was my take on it for my hammond case light:
(sorry couldn't find a pic now, but here is a video of it.)
MVI_4364_.avi - YouTube

wire + microswitch pressed into fimo, covered with heatshrink tubing, cooked in oven for a while. The first attempt was not successful because the button was so hard to press because of heatshrink tubing glued the switch. In the second attempt i padded around the microswitch with more fimo, cooked it again, success  The downside i have that I loose connection with my Polar computer and speed sensor when I switch the light on. I'm guessing I have some EMI radiating out of the buckpuck, and follows the switch cable outside the casing.


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## Road_Runner (Mar 31, 2009)

sergio_pt said:


> thanks.
> I think everyone has a spare cellphone headset that can be tweaked to a remote switch.
> If not, there's also a lot of them at ebay for less than 2 dollars.
> They're lightweight, and always well made (if you don't tweak too much)
> ...


Sergio, which model of Nokia headphones did you use to make your remote switch please?

e.g. WH-205, HS-47, WH-102, HS-45 etc,

I have looked through about 600 ebay listings but can't find one that looks the same as yours................


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Road_Runner said:


> Sergio, which model of Nokia headphones did you use to make your remote switch please?
> 
> e.g. WH-205, HS-47, WH-102, HS-45 etc,
> 
> I have looked through about 600 ebay listings but can't find one that looks the same as yours................


Nokia wh-100 handsfree is what sergio has used.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Here is one like mine: 
2.5mm Audio Stereo Earphones Headphones Microphone Headset Nokia WH-101 HS-105 | eBay
$1.99 free shipping


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

I am still waiting for night time beam shots of the switch! 


****


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## emu26 (Jun 23, 2008)

sergio, nice looking switch.

the problem with long switch wires and flex drivers is that the switch wire has the potential to act as an antenna and cause interference with the light, doing silly things like turning it self on and off. This is even more pronounced if you are using other wireless equipment on the bike. Turning itself on isn't a problem for most, but turning itself off has the potential to be a huge a problem.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Yep the EMI emissions from the flex drivers is crazy. When I use the light near a FM radio, I can't hear radio anymore just _vschvhxvcxchvshcvxhvs_ freaking interferences lol Glad I don't use any wireless computer. It should be a way to shield the driver from this problems. There's an idea for George 

Beamshots of the switch will follow when I finish the light


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

sergio_pt said:


> Yep the EMI emissions from the flex drivers is crazy. When I use the light near a FM radio, I can't hear radio anymore just _vschvhxvcxchvshcvxhvs_ freaking interferences lol Glad I don't use any wireless computer. It should be a way to shield the driver from this problems.


I'll go out on a limb here and say that the driver itself is shielded pretty well by the typical metal housing we put them in. My guess is the EMI is being radiated via the power cable. Try clipping a loop of the power cable through a ferrite bead near the lighthead then see if the FM interference is reduced.


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## bwack (Oct 11, 2009)

For a shield to pick up EMI, or atleast the electric (not magnetic) part of it, it must provide a low impedance path back to the noise source's "ground" reference. That means that the enclosure must be coupled. I wonder if it will help to add some caps between battery minus and the enclosure. There is a flight forum where some used the buckpuck and had problems with the radio communication. What they did was to add a LC filter on the input and output of the driver. I bet this will reduce the efficiency (and stability ??), reducing the speed of the switching FETs, but it was a success for them. To all with experimental built LED Nav lights - Page 6 - VAF Forums

About the coupling thing i know for a fact because I've worked with shielding flat cables that run on top of each-other. I put a metal tape between the cables. First with and then without electrical conducting glue. Guess what tape helped with noise shielding  . The hard part here is that we don't know how much attenuation is needed, so we just have to experiment.

I forgot to mention the power cable (my battery is inside the enclosure). You could try the ferrite bead clip. I'm going to try different things with my light soon.


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## DIYtailight (Sep 14, 2009)

Quazzle might have some info regarding interference reduction as on his lux-rc site he has his lights on an RC heli, and he made a demo video of his L30 lights on an RC truck.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

good info. I have to try that ferrite thingy, I see it's mainly used in the battery cables, will see if it'll work on the switch wires too.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Can anybody give me the specifics on the cateye switches? It appears there are two switches tied into one wire w/ 3 plugs. Are each of the switches momentary? or are they simple on/off clickys?
If they are momentary they would be nice to use w/ Lflexes.
TIA
Andy


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## allport (Mar 13, 2009)

Do a search on ebay for "Finger PTT" these are much better switches and need no modification.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

allport said:


> Do a search on ebay for "Finger PTT" these are much better switches and need no modification.


A word of caution though: some are not waterproof.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Here are some pics of a remote switch housing that I made to fit a larger switch. The bore in the center is 19mm diameter x 9mm deep. O-ring mounting so it is easy to install and remove. Body is Delrin plastic.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Nice work! I've been hankering for a remote switch solution, but find myself challenged by limited handlebar space since I run SRAM gripshift and Ergon grips. It seems the first available space is inboard of the brake levers so the switch ends up being so far from the grips that I might as well just use the switch on the light head.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

kwarwick said:


> Nice work! I've been hankering for a remote switch solution, but find myself challenged by limited handlebar space since I run SRAM gripshift and Ergon grips. It seems the first available space is inboard of the brake levers so the switch ends up being so far from the grips that I might as well just use the switch on the light head.


I made a remote switch once to address a similar issue. I extended the body so the switch was over the brake lever clamp and the o-ring mount was still on the bar. I put a step in the base that was the thickness of the lever clamp so that everything sat nice and flat.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

kwarwick said:


> Nice work! I've been hankering for a remote switch solution, but find myself challenged by limited handlebar space


Solution:

Just some Velcro glued on the back of the switch and on the brake.


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## kwarwick (Jun 12, 2004)

Hmmm... interesting idea! I actually have a half dozen of those keychain lights. What switch did you use?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

if you're making your own remote switch and want to mount it on your brake lever clamp, one option would be to make the base with thermoplastic and mold it to shape while it's still hot. Then some velcro or dual loc on the clamp and remote to hold it in place. It's what I'm planning to do when I replace the switch in my bar light remote which suffers from bounce.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> Here are some pics of a remote switch housing that I made to fit a larger switch. The bore in the center is 19mm diameter x 9mm deep. O-ring mounting so it is easy to install and remove. Body is Delrin plastic.


Which switch did you put in the housing?
I was looking at using one of the normal ITW switches with an led in the centre, but i think there really to long to use..


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Goldigger said:


> Which switch did you put in the housing?


This housing is going to be assembled by someone else. It will fit a slightly tweaked version of the switch in the OP. It is a Schurter MCS19 series. Beautiful switch, a bit expensive though. I typically use a Grayhill copy of the ever popular ITW switch. No illumination though.


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

Going back to one of my lights from a few yeas ago I used an old handlebar flasher for the remote switch. I just took out flasher circuit and added a tactile switch and led. It works really well and because the housing is clear the led shines in all directions so really easy to see. It's waterproof to which is great.


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

brad has cool ideas! that's a nice alternative too.

My tweaked switch is here:








water proof vandal proof and all You wont get one like this with ease


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

if someone wants a switch similar to this one
check the manufacturer web page:
Schurter Group - Home - Components - Switches - Metal Line Switches


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Here's a remote switch housing made by Vancbiker 
:thumbsup:


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

I've been having some problems with my remote switch acting as an antenna and turning on the light at random times (as George warns about for remote cables over 4 inches). I probably need some larger cable or something RF shielded.

anyone else experience this?


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## sergio_pt (Jan 29, 2007)

Knowing about that issue I used a shielded wire in this switch. got it from an old video game console. It has 4 conductors 2 of them are coaxial, hopefully it'll work fine. Not tested yet...


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

I have been using the remote switches with the flex drivers with about 10" wire length with no problems. I had one set up on the bench with about 20-24 inches and it would turn itself on occasionally. I would try a shielded cable with the shield connected to the battery - connection. Another option, and maybe George will weigh in, put a small capacitor across the switch connections. 100 picofarads?


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## bwack (Oct 11, 2009)

Vancbiker said:


> I have been using the remote switches with the flex drivers with about 10" wire length with no problems. I had one set up on the bench with about 20-24 inches and it would turn itself on occasionally. I would try a shielded cable with the shield connected to the battery - connection. Another option, and maybe George will weigh in, put a small capacitor across the switch connections. 100 picofarads?


Do you mean B2Flex or LFlex ? If its the LFlex it is regulating without switching noise.
With luxdrive buckpuck I used a 10k pullup on the button input for my microcontroller, and noise doesn't switch it on and off by it self, but radio com with the speed sensor is broken by the switching noise. If you have problems with the (b)flex going on and off by itself, maybe it needs a stronger pullup resistor on the button input. A cap will also provdide some path for high frequency noise, but then it should be placed close to the driver, not the switch.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

bwack said:


> Do you mean B2Flex or LFlex ?


It was the first hipFlex I used a few years ago that turned itself on. That only happened while setting it all up on the bench. Once I shortened the switch cable to about 8-10 inches it never happened since. I have since used bflex and lflex with no troubles.


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## bwack (Oct 11, 2009)

Thanks Vancbiker. I see now that George had allready made a note about this on the taskled webpage for the archived hipflex : "Note: it is recommended to keep the maximum wire length between the switch and hipFlex less than around 8 " (20cm). Having wire leads that are too long can cause the wires to act as an antenna and cause hipFlex to respond irregularly or turn on/off by itself."
Its interesting to know this, that it can act as an antenna..


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

I have about 6 inches of wire running to my remote switch from a lflex..its just 3 wires put into some heat shrink (I only use two of the 3 wires, I used 3 to make it more round for the cable gland)
Anyway I have no problems..


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Has anyone found a source for these switches? They're on-off for use with something like the AMC 105C board, not the *flex series. Batteryspace can be tricky to ship small items.









Component - Switch: Water resistant On/Off Switch with 6" Long Prewire


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

Cateye switches are awesome, small and waterproof. They are part number #169-9200.

Each comes button kit comes with two switches.

One word of caution - the wires are litz type wire and difficult to solder.


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

Mark2c said:


> Cateye switches are awesome, small and waterproof. They are part number #169-9200.
> 
> Each comes button kit comes with two switches.
> 
> One word of caution - the wires are litz type wire and difficult to solder.


Are these ON/OFF switches or momentary? And are they "latching" meaning a half press will power off.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Mark2c said:


> Cateye switches are awesome,
> 
> One word of caution - the wires are litz type wire and difficult to solder.


That wire type is interesting, I had never heard of it before so put Wikipedia on it. Are they using for the electrical characteristics or maybe mechanical properties? I would imagine the soldering difficulty is a result of trying to strip insulation from each strand. What is the insulation like?


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## Mark2c (Apr 25, 2007)

They are momentary (I use them to switch the Lux-RC all in one light engines).

To solder them I use a knife to scrape the screen wiring (the inner conductor is fine) and them solder with a cool iron with excellent fluxed (ie 25 years old!) solder.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

ruscle said:


> I bought a mini Din finger PTT button from ebay, works perfectly and waterproof,link below:
> 
> Mini-Din Plug Finger PTT button for Pro throat mic | eBay


I used 1 of these for use with a Lux-RC L333 & have been very happy with the switch. Survived a 30 minute soaking rain 2 days ago (my shoes still haven't dried out).

As suspected, the wire is 2 core, despite having a 4 pin plug,



Ofroad'bent said:


> Has anyone found a source for these switches? They're on-off for use with something like the AMC 105C board, not the *flex series. Batteryspace can be tricky to ship small items.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I am looking for something similar for my rear light & like you don't want to pay $80 shipping for a $10 part. I haven't found anything yet & I might have to go with mattthemuppet's solution of a tactile switch embedded in sugru if we can't find something cheap & readymade


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

find_bruce said:


> I used 1 of these for use with a Lux-RC L333 & have been very happy with the switch. Survived a 30 minute soaking rain 2 days ago (my shoes still haven't dried out).
> 
> As suspected, the wire is 2 core, despite having a 4 pin plug,
> 
> I am looking for something similar for my rear light & like you don't want to pay $80 shipping for a $10 part. I haven't found anything yet & I might have to go with mattthemuppet's solution of a tactile switch embedded in sugru if we can't find something cheap & readymade


Tactile won't work, will it- aren't they momentary only?
Last time I ordered a couple of switches from Batteryspace they charged me an outrageous sum for shipping but then refunded most of it. If you're in the US I think the shipping's not bad, and I'll split an order if you want. I don't really have any more builds upcoming for these switches yet, but it looks like something good to have in stock.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

tactile switch is another name for a momentary switch 

If I was going to do another *flex build, I'd probably get one of these:
PTT remote switch

If I needed an on/off latching switch, I'd use a Judco switch+boot, with a velcro cinch strap around it (just need to cut a hole in the velcro to go under the boot) and some sugru/oogru to cover the solder joints. I just bought one for a rear light I'm making and I was seriously impressed with how well built it seams (as impressed as you can get with a switch, obviously!). Cheap as chips too
switch
boot


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Not sure if this would work for anybody, but saw this on DX awhile ago -

Pressure Switch

Meets some of the criteria - cheap, free shipping 

***


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Of'road'bent - shoot me a PM and we can coordinate a care package from BatterySpace if you are still wanting that switch and the short jumpers with the switch inline :thumbsup:



****


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## Rich_SC (Oct 10, 2009)

With one of my judco On/Off's I had a problem with flicker of the LED. If I tapped the switch it would flicker. Probably just a bad solder job on my part.


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## find_bruce (May 8, 2011)

My apologies - I mistakenly thought tactical refered to the form factor rather than the switch mechanism.

The judco switch was what I wanted to describe


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

brad72 said:


> Going back to one of my lights from a few yeas ago I used an old handlebar flasher for the remote switch. I just took out flasher circuit and added a tactile switch and led. It works really well and because the housing is clear the led shines in all directions so really easy to see. It's waterproof to which is great.


Just found your host on chain reaction cycles..
£7
Electron Backupz Front LED Light 2011 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

No idea what type of switch these have but might be worth a try Electron Headlamp For EHP300/310 & Remote Switch | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Finally got around to finishing the remote switch for my newest bar light. Grayhill momentary pushbutton. Machined Delrin body. For size reference, the yellow cable is 4mm diameter. There are a few extra if anyone has interest. PM for details.


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