# Specialized Fatboy



## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review





































































Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

Any one else hear that thunder ?


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

Dan GSR said:


> Any one else hear that thunder ?


It's the sound of a fat rolling bandwagon.


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## appleSSeed (Dec 29, 2003)

Stoked for those SpecialiZed tires! And that fork. $500 for a yampa fork? No thanks... Not with this puppy out. Competition is a good thing.


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## MuruCycles (Sep 5, 2012)

appleSSeed said:


> Stoked for those SpecialiZed tires! And that fork. $500 for a yampa fork? No thanks... Not with this puppy out. Competition is a good thing.


maybe. but I'd prefer a 15mm thu axle myself.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

Mine is ordered, just waiting for employers to return to tell me more


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

appleSSeed said:


> those SpecialiZed tires!


Are Bud and Lou.


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## collideous (Jul 1, 2006)

MTBR.com said:


> The rear end is quite wide and we hit or heel on seatstay sometimes.


With an unchanged BB width and a 190mm rear axle I was wondering how that wouldn't happen.


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## Larry Endomorph (Jan 2, 2011)

*Valve stems*

Rear. Well, that's different.








Front.


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## modifier (May 11, 2007)

collideous said:


> With an unchanged BB width and a 190mm rear axle I was wondering how that wouldn't happen.


Exactly. I guess they wanted plenty of clearance for any tires, but still I think 170mm would be enough. Where does it say the bb is "unchanged"? Why wouldn't they go with at least a 100mm with the 190mm? We figured that out years ago.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Hmmm...

Nice looking machine. Highly manipulated tubing. Nice style. Looks like they've put a lot of thought into it. Well... except for that rear valve stem placement. The real question is... how did they get that electrical tape to stick to the tire sidewall?


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

They dropped the ball on thru-axle. Not sure how much I feel I've needed it on my fatty but it will be nice to have. Really stoked for their tire offerings.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

druidh said:


> Are Bud and Lou.


* "Our test bike came with Surly tires but Specialized Ground Control tires are coming soon."

I'm not a Specialized fan but I am pretty excited to see this after the lame output from Kona. They are at least bringing a fatbike spec'd with a carbon fork and aluminum frame for the same price as bikes without it. And now another tire option... and another rim/wheel option. This is a win.

In a side note: I hope Surly comes out with a full suspension fat bike first or something crazy to surprise everyone again... otherwise I'm a little worried for them. Getting to be some really strong competition. This coming from a Surly fan.

Now we wait for a quality review from our local experts at fat-bike.com :thumbsup:
No offense... but that was just a very quick-over generic review.


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## collideous (Jul 1, 2006)

modifier said:


> Exactly. I guess they wanted plenty of clearance for any tires, but still I think 170mm would be enough. Where does it say the bb is "unchanged"? Why wouldn't they go with at least a 100mm with the 190mm? We figured that out years ago.


With unchanged I meant 100mm. Increase the rear dropout spacing to 190mm vs. 170mm results in 10mm of reduced heel clearance. Probably not a huge issue with long s-bent chainstays. Seems like the MTBR folks hit the chainstays of the Specialized a lot, though. To keep enough heel clearance a 190mm rear axle would call for a 120mm BB, imho.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

modifier said:


> Why wouldn't they go with at least a 100mm with the 190mm? We figured that out years ago.


It looks like it is... https://reviews.mtbr.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/P1010265.jpg


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

Velobike said:


> It's the sound of a fat rolling bandwagon.


I wonder how many people the big S sued for name rights on that one.


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

collideous said:


> With unchanged I meant 100mm. Increase the rear dropout spacing to 190mm vs. 170mm results in 10mm of reduced heel clearance. Probably not a huge issue with long s-bent chainstays. Seems like the MTBR folks hit the chainstays of the Specialized a lot, though. To keep enough heel clearance a 190mm rear axle would call for a 120mm BB, imho.


This has me wondering if this bike is as pedal strike prone as the Mukluk. If they went with a 120mm BB shell it would be even worse than the Muk I would think.


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Captain Cobb said:


> I wonder how many people the big S sued for name rights on that one.


Name rights for Fatboy? Specialized have been using that for years.


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## Captain Cobb (Mar 23, 2010)

druidh said:


> Name rights for Fatboy? Specialized have been using that for years.


You are right, I do recall them using that somewhere else, just can't remember where?
It was meant more as an expression of dislike for the way that the big S has conducted themselves over the years. That being said, there is no denying the fact that they are able to produce a superior product.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

This makes the Kona offering look like a half-baked cash in.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Geo? Is this more trail or adventure-oriented?


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

Looks good. I bet a couple locals buy them.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Captain Cobb said:


> You are right, I do recall them using that somewhere else, just can't remember where?


A slick tire.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

duggus said:


> In a side note: I hope Surly comes out with a full suspension fat bike first or something crazy to surprise everyone again... otherwise I'm a little worried for them. Getting to be some really strong competition. This coming from a Surly fan.


Surly will never come out with a FS fat bike. How long have they been selling MTBs and have they come out with a single suspension equipped bike yet? No.

Salsa [Surly's sister company at QBP] has said they'll sell a FS fat bike as soon as there is a production fat fork from one of the NA suspension companies.

Personally I'm not worried about Surly at all. They've continued to thrive selling steel rigid bikes in a market with tons of high tech alternatives. I don't see anything changing.

So far neither the Kona or the Specialized fatbike has broken any new ground that the existing smaller bike companies haven't been already providing.

The only real concern I have is that if the fatbike market gets divided amongst too many players will there be enough incentive for companies like Surly to spend the $$$ to do the R&D and produce new products that can then be copied? If the incentive is too small you see lots of similar fatbike product from everyone and slowed product development.

That won't be bad for Surly they'll keep investing where they have an advantage [ie. Krampus/29+], but it would be bad for us.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

vikb said:


> Surly will never come out with a FS fat bike. How long have they been selling MTBs and have they come out with a single suspension equipped bike yet? No.


That's why I said something crazy to surprise us... it would be a surprise right? I was just saying... their niche hold on the fat bike realm keeps getting smaller and smaller. I love my Moonlander, but at the same time would I like something that doesn't take all my energy to get it on top of the car? Yes.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

I just updated the article with an interview with the designer.

Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review

Geometry is about the same as the Crave. Tires and valve stem location is just temporary. Price for the Expert is about $2500 and weight is around 30 lbs. Available hopefully by December 2013.

fc


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

Oil in Deore brakes will be replaced by some special one? As I know, original one is not the best option for very low temperatures.


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

If they can get that Fatboy expert out the door for $2500 (and maybe closer to 2K if you patronize your LBS that sells Spesh and get along well with the owner) and it weighs 30lbs rolling 4.8's and 2x10, that's pretty impressive...


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## dgw2jr (Aug 17, 2011)

francois said:


> I just updated the article with an interview with the designer.
> 
> Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review
> 
> ...


So 2 months too late and sold out before the new year? lol

IOW, hopefully Specialized doesn't run into the same availability issues as some other fat bike builders.


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## Schott (Nov 26, 2012)

I have to say. That looks pretty good. Unlike the Kona, this actually makes my decision for the next step harder. Will there be a frame option?


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

francois said:


> I just updated the article with an interview with the designer.
> 
> Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review
> 
> ...


So the Crave replaces the Carve?


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Purportedly, this is the new Trek fatbike in answer to the Specialized model..... (Found on Freewheel Bike's Facebook page)


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## Levi707 (Nov 5, 2004)

I must say that I am glad to see Specialized step into the market. This will hopefully bring the prices of some things down for us, especially tires. I am personally not a big fan of Specialized bikes but this looks like a good option for the fat bike market.


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## Greenfin (Jun 13, 2011)

Dan GSR said:


> Any one else hear that thunder ?


Nope, But I see a cloud that looks just like the other clouds in the sky.


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## 4nbstd (Apr 12, 2012)

I actually liked the Kona fat bike, looking like Jones frame, but then, bam! Fatboy makes Kona fat bike look like an idiot.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

I say - another fatbike by a company that many more people know of (due to being one of the "big 3" seems like a good thing - more people riding these bikes = more interest = innovation. No?

I don't get all the negativity. Seems weird.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

trumpus said:


> I say - another fatbike by a company that many more people know of (due to being one of the "big 3" seems like a good thing - more people riding these bikes = more interest = innovation. No?
> 
> I don't get all the negativity. Seems weird.


Spot on!! I don't get the people who say it's nothing new just like every other fat bike out there. It's a friggen BIKE, has two wheels like most every bike out there. It's capable of fitting some big ars tires and it's going to help get more people on em which means more exposure for the sport which in turn means more people looking for trails to ride and to help lobby for more trail usage. I'm not a total Spec fanboy but I have/had a few and they make some great bikes They put a lot of r&d into everything they do and I welcome them into the fat bike realm. Now bring on those rims and tires!!


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

Greenfin said:


> Nope, But I see a cloud that looks just like the other clouds in the sky.


Oh come on. If you were talking about the Kona fatbike, I'd agree.

This bike brings a lot to the table. A lightweight, stiff frame with ample tire clearance, new 90mm rims that are significantly lighter than current offerings, new tires, and big time promotion and distribution. These are huge.

Just buy an "I rode fatbikes before they were cool" t-shirt and get on with it.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

ultraspontane said:


> "I rode fatbikes before they were cool" t-shirt .


I soooooo want one of those!!


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Looks great. Surly will always have their loyal steel is real following, but their reign as the fat bike leader is coming to an end. I'd bet Secialized did more R&D on this bike than Surly ever did when designing the Pugsley. I'll give surly credit for being innovative in offering a bike that can fit the fat tires before anyone else, but I don't think they put much R&D into anything. I really doubt they have any professional engineers on their staff. I appreciate what they offer, but I just don't think they have the resources to do real development, and testing. If they did, they probably wouldn't have had the issues they have with cracked frames and weak forks, on stuff that's not even light weight.


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## buckfiddious (Nov 14, 2011)

trumpus said:


> I say - another fatbike by a company that many more people know of (due to being one of the "big 3" seems like a good thing - more people riding these bikes = more interest = innovation. No?
> 
> I don't get all the negativity. Seems weird.


Because everyone knows that what will ruin fatbikes is greater availability and more people riding them. Then we poor OG fatbikers will no longer be special. and we will have a sad.

Also, the big companies will introduce all sorts of crazy new standards to compete with the totally locked down standards that everyone else came up with (how y'all feeling about jumping on the 170 train?)...


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

autodoctor911 said:


> Looks great. Surly will always have their loyal steel is real following, but their reign as the fat bike leader is coming to an end. I'd bet Secialized did more R&D on this bike than Surly ever did when designing the Pugsley. I'll give surly credit for being innovative in offering a bike that can fit the fat tires before anyone else, but I don't think they put much R&D into anything. I really doubt they have any professional engineers on their staff. I appreciate what they offer, but I just don't think they have the resources to do real development, and testing. If they did, they probably wouldn't have had the issues they have with cracked frames and weak forks, on stuff that's not even light weight.


Really? This has to be one of the lamest posts I have seen. Did QBP just pull all of their Surly designs out of thin air? Quality has several bikes lines of all kinds with all kinds of new designs for all kinds of different uses. Living in MN I have personally seen Quality employees out riding all kinds of prototypes. I have seen prototypes for a new Foundry hard tail, Mukluk, and Spearfish on our local trails over the past several months. I also know a few of the people who develop and test their new bikes. They are putting in the same planning and testing of any other bike company. I have also seen the Salsa FS fattie proto they have at Q headquarters. They have had a proto for that hanging around the past couple of years. I think they have had a few bad runs of some components and frames, but that is the chance you take having things manufactured overseas. It happens on occasion. I suppose Specialized has done some great R & D the past 5+ years sitting on the sideline watching what Surly and Salsa have been doing in the fat bike world. Sure is easy to design a new fatbike when all the R & D has been already done for you by various other manufacturers.

I personally think the new Fatboy is pretty cool and good to see another manufacturer on board, but I think it is lame to rip the pioneers of the mass market fat bike and give all the new credit to the Johnny Come Lately's of the world of fat biking.


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## Wildfire (Feb 4, 2004)

" I suppose Specialized has done some great R & D the past 5+ years sitting on the sideline watching what Surly and Salsa have been doing in the fat bike world. Sure is easy to design a new fatbike when all the R & D has been already done for you by various other manufacturers."

Amen, brother.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

RYNOFREERIDE said:


> Really? This has to be one of the lamest posts I have seen. Did QBP just pull all of their Surly designs out of thin air? Quality has several bikes lines of all kinds with all kinds of new designs for all kinds of different uses. Living in MN I have personally seen Quality employees out riding all kinds of prototypes. I have seen prototypes for a new Foundry hard tail, Mukluk, and Spearfish on our local trails over the past several months. I also know a few of the people who develop and test their new bikes. They are putting in the same planning and testing of any other bike company. I have also seen the Salsa FS fattie proto they have at Q headquarters. They have had a proto for that hanging around the past couple of years. I think they have had a few bad runs of some components and frames, but that is the chance you take having things manufactured overseas. It happens on occasion. I suppose Specialized has done some great R & D the past 5+ years sitting on the sideline watching what Surly and Salsa have been doing in the fat bike world. Sure is easy to design a new fatbike when all the R & D has been already done for you by various other manufacturers.


I may be wrong, but I envision Surly as a small shop of less than 20 or so employees, that although they have great ideas of what bikes to make, they don't have much resources to develop them to the point that a bigger company like specialized can. Designing a new frame, even using a CAD program, and getting it fabbed up and test riding it, without instrumentation is not the same as using Finite Element analysis of the designs to test them before even making a prototype, and subjecting the prototypes to fatigue testing on mechanical implements with full instrumentation, etc.

I don't know. Maybe Surly has all of that and more under QBP, or maybe Specialized doesn't do that stuff either. It generally doesn't take that much technology to make a bike durable if it is made on the safe side of heavy, but if you want to push the limits by making stuff lighter, it is very helpful in making the product perform like it should.
test riding the prototypes is the best way to judge the performance, but when doing that it is especially usefull to have a facility that can fabricate new parts or frames quickly to implement changes during the development of those prototypes, rather than having to wait for another prototype from asia. I don't know if Spec. has that either though.

I can only base my assumptions on what I have seen for the quality, and performance of each of their products. And from what I have seen of the Surly failures, they should have been caught before a prototype was even made if using Finite Element analysis. None of the common failures I have seen looked like poor workmanship in production could have been the common factor. In fact, I'd bet the guys welding them up could have told you where they were going to fail before the first one did


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## Greenfin (Jun 13, 2011)

ultraspontane said:


> Oh come on. If you were talking about the Kona fatbike, I'd agree.
> 
> This bike brings a lot to the table. A lightweight, stiff frame with ample tire clearance, new 90mm rims that are significantly lighter than current offerings, new tires, and big time promotion and distribution. These are huge.
> 
> Just buy an "I rode fatbikes before they were cool" t-shirt and get on with it.


Let me know when I can order my t-shirt. What I mean by "just another cloud" is that with every new bike that comes out there is a little change here some grams there. Which is expected or why would one come out with a bike that simply had a different name on it. I'm just saying let's just hold back on the thunder.

No doubt those rims are lighter then my UMA IIIs, unless they make a break through in rubber compound chemistry I'd say it will be just another tire. As for the simple fact that its specialized is pretty cool, I've got nothing against them. I was simply referencing the bike it's self.

Definitely glad to see the heavy waits throw their hats in such an unsettled ring. We will hopefully see more and bigger clicks up the innovation pole. And their will probly be a bike sometime soon that is just to wide for the general public and it will bomb. But I hope I own one as in the land of 200 days form snowfall to snowfall float is KING IMHO.


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## Greenfin (Jun 13, 2011)

Great words AUTO


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## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

...funny Mark...I was thinking nearly the same thing about what Surly and Salsa were doing 10 years ago...


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

I would be excited for some wide captains for sure. That is all.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

From what I have heard, Specialized want to develop the fatties and components over the coming years  only one tyre in one size apparently for now.


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## kooki (Jun 14, 2011)

I think those fatboys look really nice. I also agree that more companies on fat business creates more innovations - though I'm really not a big fan of ever growing "standards".

Drooling for new tires on market anyways.


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## Burnt-Orange (Dec 10, 2008)

Yeah, well..."Thunder"? What's he talking about, "Thunder"?


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

autodoctor911 said:


> Designing a new frame, even using a CAD program, and getting it fabbed up and test riding it, without instrumentation is not the same as using Finite Element analysis of the designs to test them before even making a prototype, and subjecting the prototypes to fatigue testing on mechanical implements with full instrumentation, etc.


FEA isn't something that could only be obtained by the big three. Most CAD software programs have a FEA option that anyone can purchase, and that upgrade would cosst less than 5 figures.

I agree that Specialized has a lot more at their disposal, but the same issue can happen to anyone regardless of how much money they have to spend.


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## Andy FitzGibbon (Jul 7, 2007)

Levi707 said:


> I must say that I am glad to see Specialized step into the market. This will hopefully bring the prices of some things down for us, especially tires. I am personally not a big fan of Specialized bikes but this looks like a good option for the fat bike market.


Considering what normal-sized Specialized tires cost, I don't foresee them offering any bargain-basement pricing on fat tires.


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## Wildfire (Feb 4, 2004)

Yeah, that's what I was alluding to. Karma coming crawling.

Schadenfreude aside, looks like a game changer.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

autodoctor911 said:


> I can only base my assumptions on what I have seen for the quality, and performance of each of their products. And from what I have seen of the Surly failures, they should have been caught before a prototype was even made if using Finite Element analysis. None of the common failures I have seen looked like poor workmanship in production could have been the common factor. In fact, I'd bet the guys welding them up could have told you where they were going to fail before the first one did


We can argue all day about Surly R&D... but at the end of the day it was one year on one model. Tell me that the development of the Moonlander and the reliability of that ISN'T impressive??? They are making a standard 135mm rear hub work with a 4" wide rim and 5" wide tire with a crazy looking rear offset... and literally no complaints of anything in the rear bending, breaking, or cracking.... or really any problems on that frame.

Bla bla bla... anyway... back to the new bike chatter :thumbsup:

Bets on the cost of the Spec 4.8" tire? I'm going to guess $139


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> I agree that Specialized has a lot more at their disposal, but the same issue can happen to anyone regardless of how much money they have to spend.


+1 - Just google "Specialized Bikes recall" - Surly has nothing to feel bad about.


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## joop (Dec 11, 2006)

Then we poor OG fatbikers will no longer be special. and we will have a sad.

[/QUOTE]

No, then we are specialized..


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Stevob said:


> So the Crave replaces the Carve?


Yes, there was a naming trademark issue with the Carve. Funny that the letter swap actually works.

fc


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

trumpus said:


> Geo? Is this more trail or adventure-oriented?


The words I heard were "snow racer"


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

Not a huge "S" fan, but the Fatboy is a good looking bike. Curious to see what impact the new rims and tires have on the market.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## hikernks (Aug 21, 2012)

Sigh.

Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

hikernks said:


> Sigh.
> 
> Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


Those tires are for the demo bikes only. The new Specialized tires are still under development and will be ready when production bikes arrive. They will be based on the Ground Control tread and should be quite a bit lighter. ETA for this bike is around Christmas.

fc


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

hikernks said:


> Sigh.
> 
> Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


If you actually read the article or any of these post, you would know that was addressed. The preview was with Bud/Lou, They are coming out with their own 4.8


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

they said the bud and lou, as well as the odd tire valve placement were temporary, as these are pre-production prototypes, not the production bikes that will have specialized tires, and some other small changes.
read the article:Just In: Specialized Fatboy Fat Bike | Mountain Bike Review


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## Velobike (Jun 23, 2007)

hikernks said:


> Sigh.
> 
> Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


That's on the prototype.

They have stated they will have their own 120tpi tyre, and it will have a tread pattern similar to one of their existing products.


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## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

SILENCE!!!

hikernks knows of what he speaks! He even spells out "sigh" so that we know to be enlightened by his amazing ability to deduce more from pictures than from the accompanying text...


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

I remember waiting for my Fatty after preordering it from On-One, when they were still showing pictures of prototypes being tested with other tires on them, while they were still working on getting their own tires ready. It was worth the wait then, as the Fatty and it's Floater tires were excellent, and they both helped to bring down the cost of owning a fat bike. It's Almost a year later now, and Specialized is now the one showing new stuff in prototype form. It's a bit higher end than the On-One, so would make a nice upgrade come Christmas.


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## ultraspontane (May 26, 2011)

hikernks said:


> Sigh.
> 
> Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


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## Stopbreakindown (Jun 27, 2011)

Greenfin said:


> *Definitely glad to see the heavy waits throw their hats in such an unsettled ring*. We will hopefully see more and bigger clicks up the innovation pole. And their will probly be a bike sometime soon that is just to wide for the general public and it will bomb. But I hope I own one as in the land of 200 days form snowfall to snowfall float is KING IMHO.


Nice play on words


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## JYB (Nov 12, 2011)

That's a nice looking bike, but I'd rather ride my Fatback. And yes, I'd buy a Fatback again before buying a Fatboy...oh man, I hope that SpecialEd doesn't take legal action against Fatback because they have "Fat" in their name. Like I said, I'll stick with my Fatback outfitted with my Epic Designs, I mean Revelate Designs bags


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## Leopold Porkstacker (Apr 21, 2010)

I rode with two guys from Specialized in April of 2013 at some local trails who were testing out two beautiful anodised fatbikes. One was blue, the other was purple. If they offer anodised colours I will for sure purchase one of them.


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Pretty sure Specialized hasn't sold a bike with non-Specialized tires in decades. Surly could probably never produce enough tires to keep up with how many of these bikes will be sold.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Fatboy*

Well today I placed an order and have to wait to see if I can get one from the 1st shipment to New Zealand or the 2nd shipment next year :thumbsup:

The name Fatboy has been around for years with Specialized.
Its been the Name of a line of BMX bikes and of There road tyres for MTB bikes years ago (I think they where 26" x 1.25").

Just have to work out if I go with a Small or a Med? i'm in the cross over point :rockon:

*Pete*


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Are they taking orders already?
Is the MSRP set yet?


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

Did anyone mention that Specialized already made a bike called the Fatboy 5 years ago, that had 24x3.5" tires on 3" front and 6" rear rims. That's right a 24x*6" wide* bicycle rim. It was a chopper bicycle of course, but that is wider than a Clown shoe by 50%. If someone made a 6" wide tire to go on it, it would be as tall as or taller than the 26x4.8" tires. If someone does go wider than 5", it would probably be best to go down to a 24" rim to keep the overall diameter and weight down.


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## flobukki (Nov 6, 2012)

fatboy is a stupid name for a fatbike. i hobe harley davidson sues them


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## Surfdog93 (May 30, 2005)

If they include a suspension fork, I'm in.


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## Schott (Nov 26, 2012)

They are including a carbon one, that's a step further than most go. I think...they've done a good job.


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## Guitar Ted (Jan 14, 2004)

Surfdog93 said:


> If they include a suspension fork, I'm in.


It has been widely circulated in the industry that Rock Shox will have a fat bike front suspension fork soon. Not sure if it is an exclusive to some company or another, but I wouldn't be surprised to see that for the first year it is out. Rock Shox and Fox will do that if a company fronts the tooling money for a project.


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## GtownViking (Jul 27, 2012)

Isn't suspension on a fat bike kind of redundant? Doesn't the low PSI absorb any rough stuff?


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## RYNOFREERIDE (Feb 26, 2004)

The fat tires absorb a lot, but they are still rigid bikes. There is no comparison between my Mukluk and FS 29er. My FS is way more plush. My fattie is more confortable than a standard rigid mtn bike, but it still beats you up.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

RYNOFREERIDE said:


> The fat tires absorb a lot, but they are still rigid bikes. There is no comparison between my Mukluk and FS 29er. My FS is way more plush. My fattie is more confortable than a standard rigid mtn bike, but it still beats you up.


+1 - 2 trail rides back to back on my Pugs and I feel like an old man. I can ride my FS MTB 7 days a week on the same trails and just feel tired. YMMV depending on what your local trails are like.

Not everyone needs suspension on a fatbike - just like not everyone needs suspension on a regular MTB, but big tires can only deal with so much impact from the trail.

It will be nice to have a production fat fork from RS as an option. I probably won't put one on my Pugs, but if it fits a 29 x 3" Knard comfortably I could see having one for my Krampus.


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## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

This will drive the price of tires down. Specialized tires are manufactured for them by Kenda, Maxxis and CST, if one of them are tooling up to make fat tires for Specialized can their own tread patterns be far behind?


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## 10ford (Mar 12, 2013)

Saddle Up said:


> This will drive the price of tires down. Specialized tires are manufactured for them by Kenda, Maxxis and CST, if one of them are tooling up to make fat tires for Specialized can their own tread patterns be far behind?


Not necessarily. Innova builds tires for Surly and they don't have a fat tire in their catalog. The only place I see Innova tires is at Walmart.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I was excited to see if I could swap over a lot of stuff from my Pugs but it appears not. I'm especially not doing it cuz of the tapered head tube- I just finished a Lefty conversion on the Pugs and I am only switching frames in the future if I can take that with me.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

vikb said:


> Not everyone needs suspension on a fatbike - just like not everyone needs suspension on a regular MTB, but big tires can only deal with so much impact from the trail.


This! 100%

If you adventure on your Fatty, or snow ride only, you don't "need" suspension. The tires will take care of it. If you trail ride, you may find the need. I myself see a fork in my future. It is the one thing I find "lacking" in my Fat experience, at times. Granted, I am at that point riding the bike outside its intended usage, but ... but... it's so much FUN!

I wanted to beat the big guys to "market." I need to get back to my fork project.....


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

ultraspontane said:


>


I think this needs to be posted again? How many times are people going to wonder the same things in this thread... that are already answered in this thread (or the other "Specialized Prototype spotted" thread).

And if I hear "this will drive fat bike tire prices down" one more time in this same thread, I am just going to lose it.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

^^.....
deep breath.....calm......serenity now.....lol


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

XJaredX said:


> I was excited to see if I could swap over a lot of stuff from my Pugs but it appears not. I'm especially not doing it cuz of the tapered head tube- I just finished a Lefty conversion on the Pugs and I am only switching frames in the future if I can take that with me.


There are plenty of headsets that allow a normal steer tube to be used with a tapered frame so no worries there. Def make sure to keep the lefty though! they are fantastic on a fatty.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

Am I the only one disappointed that they're not making a 3.8-4" tire?


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## hunttofu (Nov 13, 2008)

Gigantic said:


> Am I the only one disappointed that they're not making a 3.8-4" tire?


From my friend at the camp today: Kevlar Bead 4.8" Ground Control Tires.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

hunttofu said:


> From my friend at the camp today: Kevlar Bead 4.8" Ground Control Tires.


Posted a handful of times already :madman: :madman: :madman: :madman:


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## deuxdiesel (Jan 14, 2007)

flobukki said:


> fatboy is a stupid name for a fatbike. i hobe harley davidson sues them


Pretty sure Harley is "Fat Boy", so they are safe. I wonder if a Specialized Fatboy will encourage the same kind of poseur behavior that a Harley Fat Boy does?


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

Gigantic said:


> Am I the only one disappointed that they're not making a 3.8-4" tire?


Nope, I also want better trail tires


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## druidh (Aug 25, 2004)

Gigantic said:


> Am I the only one disappointed that they're not making a 3.8-4" tire?


Nope. I was hoping for that too. Still, more fatbikes of any size will encourage WTB, Schwalbe etc.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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## Pancake Adventure (Aug 14, 2006)

TitanofChaos said:


> Nope, I also want better trail tires


Paging Duggus.


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

Gigantic said:


> Am I the only one disappointed that they're not making a 3.8-4" tire?


That's my preferred range as well, but I wouldn't say I'm disappointed. Actually, I'm fairly happy with the tires I have now (Escalators, HuDus, even Larry's). Haven't ridden Specialized tires since the early 90s, so my expectations aren't that high.


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## Burnt-Orange (Dec 10, 2008)

I bet this is going to drive fatbike prices down LOL


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## winkster (Mar 28, 2012)

TrailMaker said:


> This! 100%
> 
> If you adventure on your Fatty, or snow ride only, you don't "need" suspension. The tires will take care of it. If you trail ride, you may find the need. I myself see a fork in my future. It is the one thing I find "lacking" in my Fat experience, at times. Granted, I am at that point riding the bike outside its intended usage, but ... but... it's so much FUN!
> 
> I wanted to beat the big guys to "market." I need to get back to my fork project.....


\
Agreed


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## winkster (Mar 28, 2012)

TitanofChaos said:


> Nope, I also want better trail tires


Have you tried the On-One Floater tires? I am loving them for trail riding. I ride mostly single track with alot of chunk and the the Floater tires performs very well. Lots of traction on every surface I have come to.


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## Slow Danger (Oct 9, 2009)

duggus said:


> And if I hear "this will drive fat bike tire prices down" one more time in this same thread, I am just going to lose it.


Quick everyone, this guy's trying to stop us from beating the horse. Next thing he's going to expect us to stop "driving the prices of fat bike tires and components down" in all the other threads. Get him!


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

it will drive the prices of fat bike components down on when they make too many for the market and have to surplus the ones they didn't sell (ducking)


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Slow Danger said:


> Quick everyone, this guy's trying to stop us from beating the horse. Next thing he's going to expect us to stop "driving the prices of fat bike tires and components down" in all the other threads. Get him!


Hey if you survived the Wallgoosepocalypse of 2013 nothing can get you down.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)

vikb said:


> Hey if you survived the Wallgoosepocalypse of 2013 nothing can get you down.


Yes! Probably the best name I have heard to describe an event in awhile.


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

*Yes*



autodoctor911 said:


> Are they taking orders already?
> Is the MSRP set yet?


I work at my LBS and most Specialized shop's in New Zealand have had to place there orders for stock this week.

Yes to MSRP, But anyone in New Zealand can go into there LBS and Ask! I'm not going to post it here (Sorry).

Looking forward to *Fat Tyre Fun* riding Singletrack in Mid Summer 

*Pete*


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

winkster said:


> Have you tried the On-One Floater tires? I am loving them for trail riding. I ride mostly single track with alot of chunk and the the Floater tires performs very well. Lots of traction on every surface I have come to.


Hey;

I was wondering why no one else mentioned these? I guess the fact that all fatbike tire prices will naturally be coming down now that Specialized is getting into the market rendered this obvious choice moot. Relative to HuDus (120) and Nates (27), I am very pleased with their performance after one month of hard trail riding. In fact, I can comfortably say that I think they are the best all around tire choice out there.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

TrailMaker said:


> Hey;
> 
> I was wondering why no one else mentioned these? I guess the fact that all fatbike tire prices will naturally be coming down now that Specialized is getting into the market rendered this obvious choice moot. Relative to HuDus (120) and Nates (27), I am very pleased with their performance after one month of hard trail riding. In fact, I can comfortably say that I think they are the best all around tire choice out there.


It's not like we run over to our LBS and pick one up, though.


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## SmooveP (Nov 30, 2007)

Gigantic said:


> It's not like we run over to our LBS and pick one up, though.


Ha! I have yet to see ANYTHING fat in any of my LBS (Monmouth County, NJ). Apparently they're waiting for the bandwagon to run them over.

Edit: Hold on, I'm being told that the bike shops are just waiting for Trek and/or Specialized to get on board and drive the prices down.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

SmooveP said:


> Ha! I have yet to see ANYTHING fat in any of my LBS (Monmouth County, NJ). Apparently they're waiting for the bandwagon to run them over.
> 
> Edit: Hold on, I'm being told that the bike shops are just waiting for Trek and/or Specialized to get on board and drive the prices down.


lmao!
Same here in Philly, although one of my LBS's, Bicycle Revolutions does at least stock fat bikes, which is more than can be said for any of the other Surly/Salsa dealers in town.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

hikernks said:


> Sigh.
> 
> Guys, the tires Specialized is using are the Bud and Lou combo with the name blacked out. That's it. They're not releasing some magical new tire that's going to magically make the tire prices come down. They're using a tire that's already in production.


Sigh another I looked at the pretty pictures, didn't read a thing and made a stupid post comment.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

FB post from my LBS owner last night from the Spesh dealer event in Colorado:

"Ned O just beat a stacked field in the A short track race on a FATBOY. Unreal!" 

And it was accompanied by a blur with huge tires screaming by. 

From what I've been reading, the big S is really blowing a lot of minds this week with the glory of fat bikes.


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## Saddle Up (Jan 30, 2008)

TrailMaker said:


> Hey;
> 
> I was wondering why no one else mentioned these? I guess the fact that all fatbike tire prices will naturally be coming down now that Specialized is getting into the market rendered this obvious choice moot. Relative to HuDus (120) and Nates (27), I am very pleased with their performance after one month of hard trail riding. In fact, I can comfortably say that I think they are the best all around tire choice out there.


Are you saying that this will drive the price of tires down? The Fatboy and the AWOL, they are now forgiven for ingnoring 650b.


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## SupremeDork (Jun 17, 2011)

Based upon what I've seen with nearly every profit-driven company, I am *highly* skeptical of any speculative conclusions regarding a substantial positive effect on fat bike/component prices.

Using tires as an example:

If a 2.4" DH/XC tire costs upwards of $80 while so many similar options exist - and those tires are made by only a handful of manufacturers - I don't think a fat tire that's nearly *twice* the size and amount of rubber will be noticeably cheaper than a Bud or Lou is today.

EDIT: Invalid argument after thinking of rubber used in vehicle tires lol.

Also, all of these things are only worth what people are willing to pay. If enough people pay $2500 for a Fatboy, that's what Specialized will continue to sell them for. Pricing probably won't change much. Competition will be primarily in aesthetics, intended use, brand loyalty, etc.

That's my perspective, but I'm always open to objective counter-arguments and I'd LOVE to be proven wrong!


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Gigantic said:


> It's not like we run over to our LBS and pick one up, though.


I just bought a hudu and knard from my lbs. My cousins lbs has six knards waiting for bikes. You guys must be slumming it.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

jonshonda said:


> I just bought a hudu and knard from my lbs. My cousins lbs has six knards waiting for bikes. You guys must be slumming it.


The LBS here have fatbikes gathering dust on the floor so it's pretty hard to convince them they want to stock extra tires and such. LBS stock what they sell.


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

jonshonda said:


> I just bought a hudu and knard from my lbs. My cousins lbs has six knards waiting for bikes. You guys must be slumming it.


Fatbikes haven't gained as much popularity in the mid-atlantic as they have in the midwest. Aside from the one guy I usually ride with who has pugs, I've only seen a fatbike on the trails here just 3 times. I ride 4 days per week or more. My most recent sighting was a 9:zero:7 just last week. They're quite rare here.


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## TrailMaker (Sep 16, 2007)

Yep;

There are exactly five in my area of 200k souls, and I own two of them! Not much call for parts stock yet...


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## montana_ben (Oct 26, 2010)

Will someone who does pay attention in class tell me whether it has any chain tensioning provisions? Dang my '12 mukluk is starting to look all homely and awkward...


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## OFFcourse (Aug 11, 2011)

I've never seen another fatbike besides my own, I would probably gush all over my saddle if I did so it's not a bad thing.


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## damnitman (Jan 30, 2008)

we have more than 15 in my little 7,000 person rural Alaskan village


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

montana_ben said:


> Will someone who does pay attention in class tell me whether it has any chain tensioning provisions? Dang my '12 mukluk is starting to look all homely and awkward...


Definitely makes the Mukluk look pretty sorry. I wonder if the 170mm rear hub will be obsolete?


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## jmpg (Sep 17, 2008)

NZPeterG said:


> I work at my LBS and most Specialized shop's in New Zealand have had to place there orders for stock this week.
> 
> Yes to MSRP, But anyone in New Zealand can go into there LBS and Ask! I'm not going to post it here (Sorry).
> 
> ...


I went to a local Special ED shop today, they didn't even know if the Fatty was coming to Australia. I'll double check.


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## duggus (May 11, 2007)




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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

duggus said:


>


Sweet, now I can't wait to see the true specs. I'll go against the grain and hope they run a little small.


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## shanesbw (Aug 6, 2008)

jmpg said:


> I went to a local Special ED shop today, they didn't even know if the Fatty was coming to Australia. I'll double check.


Coming to Australia late this year. The store I work in has three on order and once Specialized have the tyres done, bikes are ready to ship 

Two of us have Fatboys back ordered.

Get in quick with your orders as there may not be many available here in Oz


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

did someone say there was a Blur on fat tires?
that's what I want.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

autodoctor911 said:


> did someone say there was a Blur on fat tires?
> that's what I want.


As in SC? I emailed them and they didn't sound too interested in anything fat...at least weren't willing to leak any info.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

autodoctor911 said:


> did someone say there was a Blur on fat tires?
> that's what I want.


I've got a SC Nomad with 2.4" Conti Trail Kings in the rear there is just barely any room for dirt/small rocks. SC has said they are not releasing any more new bikes this year so if there is a fat Blur it's gotta be a totally custom job.


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## autodoctor911 (Oct 30, 2012)

XJaredX said:


> FB post from my LBS owner last night from the Spesh dealer event in Colorado:
> 
> "Ned O just beat a stacked field in the A short track race on a FATBOY. Unreal!"
> 
> ...


this is what I was referring to when I asked if there was a [SantaCruz]*Blur* with fat tires, but I was misinterpreting it.


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## pkeit32 (Oct 17, 2011)

Captain Cobb said:


> You are right, I do recall them using that somewhere else, just can't remember where?


T'was a BMX bike.


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## fatnat (Feb 21, 2014)

Hope this isn't too off topic... anybody know what font they used for the "FatBoy" moniker on the frame? Would love to make my own car decal with that font! thx!


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Just picked mine up today, but its raining, hopefully get a ride tomorrow.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Had my first ride on the Fatboy this morning. Wow. Wow. Wow. Great bike. I'll put up more of a review later on, but really enjoyed the bike and so glad to have one! Pretty drastic upgrade from the FB4, which I'm really glad about.


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## jp61 (Jan 17, 2014)

Where are you finding the best packed trails for the fats in eastern CT? Had my Fatboy now for just over 3 weeks, and am always looking for trails with reliable packing. I guess the warm weather in the last couple of weeks is the real problem.


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## Paiogs (Sep 17, 2013)

Are you guys happy with comp brakes ? I'm not. Thinking to change rotors to 203mm front and 180mm rear. Any experience to share ? Trails here in the Alps are pretty demanding so I need more stopping power.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Eastern CT: Crandalls in Tolland has three or more miles off snowshoe tramped trail. Snip has probably triple that in snowmobile packed trails. Case usually gets packed in quickly too.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk


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## mneidin (Feb 26, 2014)

It doesn't look like it (and it may be totally unnecessary) but is the Fatboy geometry/fork suitable for a suspension fork in the future (should they become more easily available).

Not sure that I would ever need a suspension fork, but I'd like to know if that would be an option should I purchase a Fatboy.

The bike would be primarily used for summer riding.

Mark


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## CJones (Aug 3, 2004)

mneidin said:


> It doesn't look like it (and it may be totally unnecessary) but is the Fatboy geometry/fork suitable for a suspension fork in the future (should they become more easily available).


I assumed the bend at the top of the downtube was for future suspension fork crown clearance. I have not seen an A-C measurement on the fork, but it looks suspension corrected to me.


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## mneidin (Feb 26, 2014)

CJones said:


> I assumed the bend at the top of the downtube was for future suspension fork crown clearance. I have not seen an A-C measurement on the fork, but it looks suspension corrected to me.


When I look at the pictures, I only see about an 1 1/2" to 2" of space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the headset. I would think that the crown would take about an inch of that. If you wanted 100mm fork (which could be overkill on a fatbike), you would end up raising the front end by 2" (less sag). I would think that would change the handling quite a bit. Perhaps that could be offset somewhat by a different stem or shorter steerer tube, however that would still result in a somewhat slacker head tube angle. That's just how I view the pictures.


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## CJones (Aug 3, 2004)

I'm getting a 470mm axle to crown measurement for the Fat Boy fork.


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## M3lon (Apr 21, 2014)

*My Fatty*

My Fatboy ....lov'in it !!


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## trailblazer29er (Apr 23, 2011)

Well I have to say, I loved my Fatboy this year. My only regret was that I wasn't able to test it in dirt. I didn't have any problems with the stopping power on my comp. One I'm going to do if I like the Fatboy in the summer is buy a set of new tires.

Anyone planning on doing this upgrade?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I might look at the Bluto next summer. I put Floaters on mine for this summer.


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## somiedo (Feb 28, 2014)

Hello, I am studying the option of installing the fork rock shox bluto on the fatboy. But I do not know what the limit of travel fork installed. Specialized's answer is "recommend using 80mm of travel." But I'm interested in installing 100mm of travel. Anyone know more information about this topic? thank you very much.


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

Picked one up today. Loving it.









Has it been confirmed that we can add a 80mm BLUTO?


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## Stevob (Feb 27, 2009)

somiedo said:


> Anyone know more information about this topic? thank you very much.


It all depends on the length of the rigid fork as to how much travel you can use. Specialized don't have the fork length listed on their site.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I believe 80mm matches the geo of the rigid fork. You going longer is going to mess with the geometry, which is not a big deal, probably. But it also increases the torque on the steer tube. I HIGHLY doubt this would lead to any kind of failure, but if it did, I suspect specialized would not warranty based on their recommendation.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk


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## RockyJo1 (Jul 23, 2012)

evercycling said:


> Picked one up today. Loving it.
> 
> View attachment 890238
> 
> ...


17.5?


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

RockyJo1 said:


> 17.5?


Yup


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## RockyJo1 (Jul 23, 2012)

evercycling said:


> Yup


Looks like good stand over height. F*** I can't wait for them to land in the LBS.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I've been riding my Fatboy a lot in the dirt since the snow disappeared. Mostly I ride it at the local place which has some technical spots, but mostly its pretty smooth with lots of turns. Its always lots of fun. 

Today I decided to try it out at one of the very technical places nearby. It was still lots of fun, but in the super technical stuff, it was not so much fun. I struggled to make it through spots that are difficult, but rideable, on my RIP9. I even doubled back and tried a few of them times with not much better results. I had a couple of good crashes along the way, no big deal, but...

I always say that I ride for fun, today's ride would have been more fun on the 29er - just a point of reference I guess.


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

RockyJo1 said:


> Looks like good stand over height. F*** I can't wait for them to land in the LBS.


Def.

looking forward to mounting some front suspension and a CF seat post.

Any other must tweaks from other owners?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Riser stem - the handlebars will hit the top tube if you crash, I have the chipped paint to prove it. Other than that I think its good to go (I have the Expert).


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

Jisch said:


> I've been riding my Fatboy a lot in the dirt since the snow disappeared. Mostly I ride it at the local place which has some technical spots, but mostly its pretty smooth with lots of turns. Its always lots of fun.
> 
> Today I decided to try it out at one of the very technical places nearby. It was still lots of fun, but in the super technical stuff, it was not so much fun. I struggled to make it through spots that are difficult, but rideable, on my RIP9. I even doubled back and tried a few of them times with not much better results. I had a couple of good crashes along the way, no big deal, but...
> 
> I always say that I ride for fun, today's ride would have been more fun on the 29er - just a point of reference I guess.


Yeah i think there's too much debate on fat bikes vs 29ers. I think their pretty different. One can't replace the other completely. But if given the choice. I'll stick to the Fat.

Maybe get some 29 or 29+ tires as a second set?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I don't think I'll ever get rid of my 29er, so much fun going fast and catching air. Perhaps there are riders more skilled than I (there are surely riders more skilled than I!), but for super tech or air opportunities I'll take the 29er FS every time.


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

Jisch said:


> Riser stem - the handlebars will hit the top tube if you crash, I have the chipped paint to prove it. Other than that I think its good to go (I have the Expert).


Interesting. Gotta research that. I have the base fat boy so it should have the same symptom.


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## AdamJay (Jan 27, 2014)

Jisch said:


> Pretty drastic upgrade from the FB4, which I'm really glad about.


Care to go into detail on which areas of improvement are "drastic"? Aside from tires, of course.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I wrote that immediately after my first ride on the Fatboy, honestly my memory of the FB4 has faded a bit. Some of it is the weight, but I like the geometry a lot better too. I noticed how much more nimble this bike was right off the bat. 

Sorry I can't be more descriptive, its been a while since I sold the FB4. 

I love the Fatboy though!


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Has anyone put a bashguard on a Fatboy? I scraped my big ring on a rock this weekend and it bummed me out.


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## gravitylover (Sep 1, 2009)

Where it belongs


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

Jisch said:


> Has anyone put a bashguard on a Fatboy? I scraped my big ring on a rock this weekend and it bummed me out.


I would like to do the same. Did you see the reply in your other thread in reference to the Race Face Lightweight Bash Guards? Would that work?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I don't think it will, but I have one of those on my other bike, so I will try taking it off and seeing if it fits. I think you'd need a bashguard that only goes 3/4's of the way around. There are a couple out there like that, but they are all to cover 44T (i.e. big rings). I don't want to lose that much ground clearance. 

I'll probably get to trying the swap tomorrow morning, I'll report back.


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

Home

these work for me


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Did that fit on your Fatboy?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I ordered a BBG 36T bash. I am about 95% certain that I will need to remove that small band that goes by the crank arm. The ring on the Fatboy has a pin sticking out to prevent the chain from falling into that crevice and I think it will interfere with the ring. Hopefully the diameter of the ring is only marginally bigger than the 36t ring - if its more than 1/8" bigger it will interfere with the front derailleur. I'll gamble on $18 and will let you know how it works out.


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

TitanofChaos said:


> Home
> 
> these work for me


Do you have a pic of it on your Fatboy?


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

Jisch said:


> Did that fit on your Fatboy?


I do not have a fatboy, I did have this bashring fit on a similar crank, the issue was not having a flat surface to mount it to, when you remove a ring from a triple, the spider has a flat surface for this to sit on

This is easily remedied with some nylon washers that fit over the chainring bolts but drop into the holes where the chainring bolts usually fit, the washer will be sitting on the machined shoulder giving a flat surface to mount to

this will also give you a smidge more clearance for the front derailer as well

you may need longer chainring bolts

the first thing that came to mind was cutting that little part off the back to make it fit the crank if needed, it's cheap enough to not worry about modifying


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

gravitylover said:


> Where it belongs


Sweet tread!!!

rog


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## gravitylover (Sep 1, 2009)

Yeah the ridgeline trails around here tend to be like that. It's hard to see but there is a lot of scrub growth that makes the trail tight when it grows in so it tends to stay moist for longer hence the moss. This year the growing season has been shortened though so it remains to be seen how tight it gets. Usually this would be at full leaf out by now.


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## M3lon (Apr 21, 2014)

*Finally Bluto!!*

Loving my Fatboy even more now. I9 fat bike hubs and 100mm RS Bluto


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I told myself I didn't want a Bluto, but to see one on a Fatboy, ugh, its making my wallet twitch.


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

Uggghhh. That BLUTO looks sick!!!! Im jelly. Lol


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

evercycling said:


> Uggghhh. That BLUTO looks sick!!!! Im jelly. Lol


ya, good thing my tange rigid fork is white. i like white. a lot. if the bluto were white i'd be fvcked

rog


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

newmarketrog said:


> ya, good thing my tange rigid fork is white. i like white. a lot. if the bluto were white i'd be fvcked
> 
> rog


Haha true. I heard that you can only order it in gloss black. That white and flat black are OEM only. Is it true?


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

evercycling said:


> Haha true. I heard that you can only order it in gloss black. That white and flat black are OEM only. Is it true?


wait, wha? NOT LISTENING, NOPE CAN'T HEAR OR READ ANYTHING MUST GO RIDE NOW BYE BYE!!!!

rog


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

newmarketrog said:


> wait, wha? NOT LISTENING, NOPE CAN'T HEAR OR READ ANYTHING MUST GO RIDE NOW BYE BYE!!!!
> 
> rog


Hahahahahaa. " sees "newmarketrog" haul ass away on his fat. Lmao. "


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

"MEGA DROOLZ". Sorry rog. Lmao


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

evercycling said:


> Hahahahahaa. " sees "newmarketrog" haul ass away on his fat. Lmao. "


PHEW! i needed that. tange rode sooooooooooooooo good and white!

rog


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

evercycling said:


> View attachment 900188
> 
> 
> "MEGA DROOLZ". Sorry rog. Lmao


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



bastid 

rog


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## Bearhunter (Mar 5, 2014)

M3lon said:


> Loving my Fatboy even more now. I9 fat bike hubs and 100mm RS Bluto


Man that looks great


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

F it. I pulled the trigger on a black one! 0___0 ill report back when I get it installed


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

If anyone is still looking for a fatboy my LBS has two a small and large. I read that people were having trouble finding them.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

So I've ridden an origin 8 crawler and a pigs (bikes friends have) and I see the idea behind them and they felt big and slow, especially for measly 3.8" tires. Met a guy at trailhead today that has fat boy comp.....was cool and let me take it for a short spin.

Holy crap!!! Big ass tires and yet felt nice and light. Too bad I didn't have the cash I would have raced to lbs and ordered one lol. I'm a trek guy all 3 bikes in my garage are. But being the fact of 4.6 tires stock and how it felt to ride I think im going to end up cheating on my normal lbs hehe.


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## evercycling (May 24, 2013)

tigris99 said:


> So I've ridden an origin 8 crawler and a pigs (bikes friends have) and I see the idea behind them and they felt big and slow, especially for measly 3.8" tires. Met a guy at trailhead today that has fat boy comp.....was cool and let me take it for a short spin.
> 
> Holy crap!!! Big ass tires and yet felt nice and light. Too bad I didn't have the cash I would have raced to lbs and ordered one lol. I'm a trek guy all 3 bikes in my garage are. But being the fact of 4.6 tires stock and how it felt to ride I think im going to end up cheating on my normal lbs hehe.


Hahaha happened to me buddy. Lol. My lbs owner was cool with it though. Now we are doing bluto, i9 hub, tubeless and a niner rdo seatpost. Im definitely going nutz with this format. Its super fun.


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## barry1me (May 9, 2008)

hey guys I just got my fatboy expert and love it!!!! I want to go to the lighter weight tubed tire setup to shed some Gs.....which 24x 2.-3.0 tube are you guys using? 230g weight? Thats a nice weight savings. Also Im curious if anyone has upgraded to carbon fiber bars or seat post yet?


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## projekt (Dec 9, 2009)

barry1me said:


> I want to go to the lighter weight tubed tire setup to shed some Gs.....which 24x 2.-3.0 tube are you guys using? 230g weight?


Maxxis 24 x 2.7 DH tube, 420 g.

- projekt


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

q-lite 26x2.4-2.75 256 grams.

rog


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

barry1me said:


> Also Im curious if anyone has upgraded to carbon fiber bars or seat post yet?


I have upgraded by Fatboy with carbon bars and seat post, XX cassette, Wolf tooth 1x 30T sprocket, Ti railed Phenom seat, X9 shifter and set up tubeless. The thing is a rocket and has caused me to park my S-Works Epic 29er


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

My first mod was putting on Carbon bars. Really helps take the edge off of the small bumps.


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## barry1me (May 9, 2008)

jackdz said:


> I have upgraded by Fatboy with carbon bars and seat post, XX cassette, Wolf tooth 1x 30T sprocket, Ti railed Phenom seat, X9 shifter and set up tubeless. The thing is a rocket and has caused me to park my S-Works Epic 29er


lol to funny....I have my s works epic 29er sitting also as I am really enjoying this fat boy....only thing I miss about the epic is the 10lb weight shed. I need to drop some lbs.....how did you do the tubeless setup on your fatboy? I would like to try that but I am not seeing a robust setup yet(atleast from what I have heard). What is the weight of your setup now?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I did split tube tubeless on my Fatboy. It was pretty dang easy to do (I did have to put a strap around the tire to get it to start taking air and move out into the bead seat). I had one tire go flat when I went to a really low PSI on snow then I rode it on rocky terrain at the bottom of the hill, but other than that its been perfect. 

I ran the Ground Control tires in the snow and moved over to Floaters now - both have worked well - I haven't even had to add air to the Floaters in 3 months of riding them tubeless.


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## AnimalBikeman (Jun 18, 2011)

Enjoyed a very interesting ride on a spec fat boy today. I suppose it is a medium as they show only 17.5 -S on the sticker. The spec tires are advertised as 4.6" but actually were about 4.2" inflated at around 10 LBS. The LBS said the geometry is heavily influenced by Specialized's road bike design and I noticed this throughout my demo, as the seat was way up in the air compared to the handle bars. (Iam 5.10" and set the seat to about 30+" an inch or two higher than I ride my Fargo due to the low handlebar position) seat was maybe 4" above bar height, which placed me in a perfect riding position to watch the trail immediately in front of the tire - good to see ruts, rocks and stuff on the trail, but to heads down to scout pedistrians walking dogs out in front. Almost ran over a woman and big lab trying to walk the same 4" dirt track I was following, which was a big wake up call for craning my neck up to look ahead of the bike a lot more. Ala riding in the drops - but without the drops... LBS said maybe riding a large would raise the front end a couple of inches which would lower the seat height and make it easier to see! 

Other negative was a LOT of heel strikes on the chain stay- left side. The chain stays are formed wrong in my opinion - they flare out way to soon. I finally adjusted my left foot outward an inch or more on the pedals so my left heel would clear the frame. This wider stance caused some shin and knee discomfort so may be troubling for me personally, as the wide BB is my primary worry, causing debilitating knee pain. Width between outer edge of cranks is 1.5" wider than my well fitted set up on my medium salsa Fargo. Also found the wide bars a tad to wide for my rugged mountain man shoulders, and way to low to the frame to mount mountain drops - my preferred bar style. but they produced a lot of leverage for negotiating tight turns and maybe living through some serious technical downhill. More knarly animals than me could say more about this.

On the positive side, the bike was easy to ride and the bigger tires didn't drag the molten core of the earth along behind the bike nearly as much as 3" Knards I rode a few days ago. I can see potential in the big floaters for off road adventure biking across desert sage or tundra and similar flora and fauna - maybe a better tire for the purpose than the 4" Nates. They are definitely could challenge Bud and lows in Moonlanders for riding the Rub al Khali- desert sands and big dunes of the empty quarter on the Arabian Peninsula. I do plan to ride a large whenever it arrives here in nonfat land as the price is right and would certainly like to see if a large is a better fit.


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## AnimalBikeman (Jun 18, 2011)

evercycling said:


> Hahaha happened to me buddy. Lol. My lbs owner was cool with it though. Now we are doing bluto, i9 hub, tubeless and a niner rdo seatpost. Im definitely going nutz with this format. Its super fun.


Hiya evercycling,

My local Spec LBS wasn't to keen on adding a Bluto to the medium fatboy he has in stock. Says it would alter the geometry way to much and make it hard to steer. Would be great to hear your experiences with the fork.

Thanks


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## shoo (Nov 11, 2008)

Interesting ride report. Sounds like in spite of the negatives you still had fun. Cool! FYI the headtube on the large is 15mm longer. You might ask the shop to throw a high rise stem on for another test ride. I would recommend setting the seat height to the same height as your fargo. I think the closer you can mimic your existing bike in fit the better you can isolate what you like and don't like about the test bike.

Cheers!



AnimalBikeman said:


> Enjoyed a very interesting ride on a spec fat boy today. I suppose it is a medium as they show only 17.5 -S on the sticker. The spec tires are advertised as 4.6" but actually were about 4.2" inflated at around 10 LBS. The LBS said the geometry is heavily influenced by Specialized's road bike design and I noticed this throughout my demo, as the seat was way up in the air compared to the handle bars. (Iam 5.10" and set the seat to about 30+" an inch or two higher than I ride my Fargo due to the low handlebar position) seat was maybe 4" above bar height, which placed me in a perfect riding position to watch the trail immediately in front of the tire - good to see ruts, rocks and stuff on the trail, but to heads down to scout pedistrians walking dogs out in front. Almost ran over a woman and big lab trying to walk the same 4" dirt track I was following, which was a big wake up call for craning my neck up to look ahead of the bike a lot more. Ala riding in the drops - but without the drops... LBS said maybe riding a large would raise the front end a couple of inches which would lower the seat height and make it easier to see!
> 
> Other negative was a LOT of heel strikes on the chain stay- left side. The chain stays are formed wrong in my opinion - they flare out way to soon. I finally adjusted my left foot outward an inch or more on the pedals so my left heel would clear the frame. This wider stance caused some shin and knee discomfort so may be troubling for me personally, as the wide BB is my primary worry, causing debilitating knee pain. Width between outer edge of cranks is 1.5" wider than my well fitted set up on my medium salsa Fargo. Also found the wide bars a tad to wide for my rugged mountain man shoulders, and way to low to the frame to mount mountain drops - my preferred bar style. but they produced a lot of leverage for negotiating tight turns and maybe living through some serious technical downhill. More knarly animals than me could say more about this.
> 
> On the positive side, the bike was easy to ride and the bigger tires didn't drag the molten core of the earth along behind the bike nearly as much as 3" Knards I rode a few days ago. I can see potential in the big floaters for off road adventure biking across desert sage or tundra and similar flora and fauna - maybe a better tire for the purpose than the 4" Nates. i do plan to ride a large whenever it arrives here in nonfat land as the price is right and would certainly like to see if a large is a better fit.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

My Ground Controls come out to 4.5" right on the nuts mounted on 90mm rims and a Bluto set to 80mm will be about the same as the existing fork on a Fatboy. And Shoo is correct the stack height difference from a med to a large is 15mm and looking at the geo it looks like it's close to the Carve and not a road bike, are you really sure this LBS really knows what they are doing?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Im 5'10 and bought a large, so did my buddy who is the same height. I found it fit better than a medium but it is a tad tall. I installed a 125mm command post and even with the post inserted all the way i cant use the heightest setting. It is a tad too tall! The middle and low setting work geat so I use it as pedal and descend positions.

I had a Carve not long ago and ran a 120mm fork on it and loved it. Since it has the same Geo as the Fatboy, i plan on running a 120mm bluto on mine. I also went with a 60mm stem (stock was 75mm) and I switched to 720mm Enduro carbon riser bars (25mm rise). It gives me my desired riding position.

I use shimano clipless pedals so Ive had no issues with heal rub.

I personally feel the stock geo is a bit too steep and a taller fork would be make it much more capable on the trail!


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## AnimalBikeman (Jun 18, 2011)

Yep, i did enjoy the ride. Didnt mean to soundto negative, just wanted to layout what my experience was with the bike. I think what I meant to say about handle bar height and riding position is that sitting in the cockpit of this bike seems a lot more like a road bike with the way up above the handlebars, and the bars themselves mounted seemingly fairly low. I am not famaliar with the Carve, but do have an 09 FS stumpjumper, which is a very comfortable bike, yet with a more upright riding stance. Lbs did suggest a riser bar setup, but i am looking for a way to run mountain drops - maybe an On One Midge or a wide salsa woodchipper to support touring and longish days on the trail. 

Bdundee, Interesting about your tire width measurements. I measured the bike myself so pretty sure about the 4.2 measure, although only used a tape not calipers, and might not have looked for the outer edge of the knobs. It was a stock build, doesnt seem there could be that much differnce in manufacturing sizes between individual tires - ill go back and measure again...

One thing ive thought about is this fatboy frame is rated 17.5", whereas my stumpjumper and Fargo are both 18". I suspect the large, with the 15mm rise and 19" frame will change my riding stance to more significantly upright position - maybe more neutral seat- handlebarposition. The local LBS is exclusively a spec dealer, although they have only had the fatboy in stock for a week or less, and this is the first one they have seen. So probably they dont have much if any prior practical experience with fork substitutes etc.

Iam thinking about setting up one of mybikes to minic the fat bb width (8" crank to crank) and riding the [email protected]&& out of it to see if my knees will stand up to the wider Q factor- before laying out the big bucks.


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

Just popped on the green one. Can't wait!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Gigantic (Aug 31, 2012)

AnimalBikeman said:


> Enjoyed a very interesting ride on a spec fat boy today. I suppose it is a medium as they show only 17.5 -S on the sticker. The spec tires are advertised as 4.6" but actually were about 4.2" inflated at around 10 LBS. The LBS said the geometry is heavily influenced by Specialized's road bike design and I noticed this throughout my demo, as the seat was way up in the air compared to the handle bars. (Iam 5.10" and set the seat to about 30+" an inch or two higher than I ride my Fargo due to the low handlebar position) seat was maybe 4" above bar height, which placed me in a perfect riding position to watch the trail immediately in front of the tire - good to see ruts, rocks and stuff on the trail, but to heads down to scout pedistrians walking dogs out in front. Almost ran over a woman and big lab trying to walk the same 4" dirt track I was following, which was a big wake up call for craning my neck up to look ahead of the bike a lot more. Ala riding in the drops - but without the drops... LBS said maybe riding a large would raise the front end a couple of inches which would lower the seat height and make it easier to see!
> 
> Other negative was a LOT of heel strikes on the chain stay- left side. The chain stays are formed wrong in my opinion - they flare out way to soon. I finally adjusted my left foot outward an inch or more on the pedals so my left heel would clear the frame. This wider stance caused some shin and knee discomfort so may be troubling for me personally, as the wide BB is my primary worry, causing debilitating knee pain. Width between outer edge of cranks is 1.5" wider than my well fitted set up on my medium salsa Fargo. Also found the wide bars a tad to wide for my rugged mountain man shoulders, and way to low to the frame to mount mountain drops - my preferred bar style. but they produced a lot of leverage for negotiating tight turns and maybe living through some serious technical downhill. More knarly animals than me could say more about this.
> 
> On the positive side, the bike was easy to ride and the bigger tires didn't drag the molten core of the earth along behind the bike nearly as much as 3" Knards I rode a few days ago. I can see potential in the big floaters for off road adventure biking across desert sage or tundra and similar flora and fauna - maybe a better tire for the purpose than the 4" Nates. They are definitely could challenge Bud and lows in Moonlanders for riding the Rub al Khali- desert sands and big dunes of the empty quarter on the Arabian Peninsula. I do plan to ride a large whenever it arrives here in nonfat land as the price is right and would certainly like to see if a large is a better fit.


From your description, it sounds as though the problems you encountered have more to do with the bike fit that with the geometry of the bike itself, particularly your comments relating to your posture, seat height and shin and knee pain. These are all symptomatic of an improperly fitting bike and most likely have little to do with the fundamentals of the bicycle itself. If you were to have been professionally fitted and had the appropriate seat height, bar rise and stem length for your body's size and mechanical dynamics, I suspect your impressions might be quite a bit different. Everyone's fit is different, similarly, not every bike is assembled to the same basic fitting dimensions.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm 5'11" with a long inseam (34.5), I bought a Large Fatboy, after putting on riser bars and a riser stem I find the riding position to be perfectly fine, I don't notice it to be more "road bike" than my other mountain bikes. I do think that Specialized missed the boat on the front end of this bike - at a minimum the handlebars should clear the top tube! I understand they are shipping them with spacers now, mine came with no spacers, so I couldn't adjust them without getting a new stem and/or bars. I wouldn't expect bike shops to know too much about this bike. I talk to a lot of people and I think the best source of information about fat bikes (Specialized or other) is right here on MTBR.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I think someone was looking for a ride report on the bluto on the fatboy?

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatboy-bluto-915317-2.html


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

barry1me said:


> lol to funny....I have my s works epic 29er sitting also as I am really enjoying this fat boy....only thing I miss about the epic is the 10lb weight shed. I need to drop some lbs.....how did you do the tubeless setup on your fatboy? I would like to try that but I am not seeing a robust setup yet(atleast from what I have heard). What is the weight of your setup now?


My tubeless setup is gorilla tape and Stans. I got the rear to seal the first try, needed to do the front 3 times to get it to seal. I'm happy to report it is totally sealed and I am rocking this thing hard on the dirt with no issues at 6-7 psi.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

I'm tossing this here, we've got a bunch of threads on the FB going.

I picked the comp model for a reason, I wanted to bolt the parts onto it that I wanted, and then parts bin the rest for my kids bikes. I also really wanted the green.

These brakes suck. Tektro Gemini. There's squat for adjustment other than reach, and the reach isn't even true reach. It's just moving the travel further from or closer to you. My front is great, the rear is horrible. I'm ripping them off today and tossing on my trusty BB7's. 

I also hated the gripshift, but that's a personal thing. Triggers were on within 3 rides.

But otherwise, this thing is fun. Lots more than I expected.


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## turkish_sp (Nov 11, 2008)

Does anybody know the weight of the seatpost?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The one on my large is just under 400g uncut. It is REALLY long too. I'm 5'10 and all the way lowered it still stuck up so much I could barely reach the pedals. It was command post climb height! 

The Command post is about 540g, so it wasnt a big weight gain to add a dropper! If you go the other route and install a carbon post you can shave a ton of weight off the bike.


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## turkish_sp (Nov 11, 2008)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The one on my large is just under 400g uncut. It is REALLY long too. I'm 5'10 and all the way lowered it still stuck up so much I could barely reach the pedals. It was command post climb height!
> 
> The Command post is about 540g, so it wasnt a big weight gain to add a dropper! If you go the other route and install a carbon post you can shave a ton of weight off the bike.


Ooops, heavy as a tank. Definitely I'll go for a carbon handlebar and seatpost. When the bike arrives (I've been told that I'll get it in September) I'm going to put it on a diet: Enve bars and stem, R1 brakes, XT cassette, XTR derailleur and shifters, Romin Evo saddle...


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I've had my Fatboy Expert for a few weeks now and been loving it. The grip from the Ground Controls is amazing and the bike feels soooo light and flickable, yet drives over obstacles like a monster truck. It is an absolute hoot to ride, can't wait to try it in the snow.


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## Davesnhere (Apr 3, 2005)

Hello,I currently ride a Muk2 in large size,and am thinking about buying a Fatboy Expert to replace it...Just have a few questions for those that own one...I'm 5'10, should I stick with a Large,or go medium? How is the gloss black paint holding up? Is the front derailuer cable prone to getting snagged when riding through thick brush? And lastly, will I get used to the grip shift(never owned a bike with it?? Tia for any replies....


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I'm 6'2" with a 34" in seam and the large fits me well with a longer raised stem. The XL was a better fit in top tube length, but gave me very little clearance in top tube height. I wanted whatever clearance I could get for snow riding. 

I put black factory Effex vinyl over the wear areas of the bike (top tube, chain stays, fork tubes) and that should do a good job in preventing scratches based on my motorcycle experience. 

I haven't had any issues with the front derailleur cable, your leg protects it when riding.

As for the grip shift, either you will learn to like it or swap it out. After using it a bit, I prefer it to the triggers as it doesn't hit the edge of your thumb when riding like they do, and you don't have to loosen or change grip to shift.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm 5'10 with a 31" in seam and I went large. The Medium felt too compact. The only issue I have is after installing a 120mm Bluto the Toptube is really close to the "boys". If I was to do it again I'd get a medium for the extra top tube clearance. If your stayign with the stock fork the large is ok.

When I got my Fatboy my first thought was "the grip shift has to go!" but after a couple rides I really enjoyed it. When I installed Shimano brakes I couldnt reach the level without sliding my hands in, which would cause me to shift on accident. I switched to a trigger shifter, but i find I do miss the grip shift a little.


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## Davesnhere (Apr 3, 2005)

Mr. Lynch said:


> I'm 5'10 with a 31" in seam and I went large. The Medium felt too compact. The only issue I have is after installing a 120mm Bluto the Toptube is really close to the "boys". If I was to do it again I'd get a medium for the extra top tube clearance. If your stayign with the stock fork the large is ok.
> 
> When I got my Fatboy my first thought was "the grip shift has to go!" but after a couple rides I really enjoyed it. When I installed Shimano brakes I couldnt reach the level without sliding my hands in, which would cause me to shift on accident. I switched to a trigger shifter, but i find I do miss the grip shift a little.


Thanks for the replies guys&#8230;Just spent more than an hour tooling around on a large expert, and a medium standard&#8230;while I love the orange colors of the standard(the black and red ain't so bad either, and just so happens to match my roubaix color scheme), the shifting, braking, and feel of the expert just felt so much smoother to me&#8230;Coming from a large Mukluk 2, I kinda like the extra room for the longer rides, so The large is definitely the Fatboy for me! I ended up getting $300.00 off (dealer promo), and put a little more than half down as a deposit&#8230;Now I feel like an 8 year old on Christmas eve&#8230;Can't wait to get the bike&#8230;it's looking like another paycheck or 2 (unless I can sell the Muk before than) before I can get it&#8230;for now it's in the dealers basement with my name on it&#8230;.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Davesnhere said:


> Thanks for the replies guys&#8230;Just spent more than an hour tooling around on a large expert, and a medium standard&#8230;while I love the orange colors of the standard(the black and red ain't so bad either, and just so happens to match my roubaix color scheme), the shifting, braking, and feel of the expert just felt so much smoother to me&#8230;Coming from a large Mukluk 2, I kinda like the extra room for the longer rides, so The large is definitely the Fatboy for me! I ended up getting $300.00 off (dealer promo), and put a little more than half down as a deposit&#8230;Now I feel like an 8 year old on Christmas eve&#8230;Can't wait to get the bike&#8230;it's looking like another paycheck or 2 (unless I can sell the Muk before than) before I can get it&#8230;for now it's in the dealers basement with my name on it&#8230;.


Congrats! The price difference between the expert and standard is fairly significant, but after riding both a bunch I came to a similar conclusion. I also really liked the grippy pedals on the expert although I found out they grip your leg pretty well if you aren't careful :eekster:


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Here she is in the wild. 
XL comp with a few changes so far. Weighing in at 30.66 lbs as pictured.

1x10 with a SRAM 1050 cassette. 
32T wolf tooth on the front. 
X7 trigger shifter. 
Tubeless with the Pegasus tape- flawless. 
Thomson seat post, Pure V seat. 
BB7 with SD levers, HS1 rotors, Jagwire housing. 
Easton EA70 low rise bar. 
Ergon Biokork grips. 
YAWYD head cap.

Love it.


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

Does anyone know the real weights of the stock bikes? Is that info already in this thread? I picked up a Fatboy today and it had to be 35+ pounds?


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## Tincup69 (Sep 5, 2012)

I think my large comp was closer to 30lbs, don't have an exact number sorry.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

On a park tools scale my stock large comp was 32 lbs. 
I went carbon bars, 1x10 and dropped some weight but added a command post and Bluto and it is 33 lbs now. I will go tuneless soon and that should get it back done closer to 30.

My Stumpjumper Evo is a little under 26 lbs so I'm use to a light bike but I have no issues with the Fatboy feeling like a pig or anything.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Stock at home for my XL was 33.12 lbs. That's tubes and all the bits, including the stock pedals.


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## limba (Jan 9, 2004)

Thanks guys.


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## Davesnhere (Apr 3, 2005)

Muk Sold, Picking up My Expert Tomorrow Afternoon!!! No sleeping tonight!!! Can't wait!


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Crap. Sounds like my rear hub has got gravel in it. Anyone able to pull it apart and lube it up? Gotta race this weekend and I'm riding fat, grind or not.


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

Have you read the posts by some guys on here with broken axles in the rear hub? Seems to be becoming more common on the Fatboys.


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## Paiogs (Sep 17, 2013)

Known issue for 2014 model year. For 2015 they changed to steel in place of aluminum. Mine replaced under warranty.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

one4teen said:


> Crap. Sounds like my rear hub has got gravel in it. Anyone able to pull it apart and lube it up? Gotta race this weekend and I'm riding fat, grind or not.


I've pulled mine apart and replace the bearing with Enduro bearing. They are a standard 6001 bearing, most shops stock these. The OD is 28mm, ID 12mm and thickness is 8mm.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Thanks Jack, I'll get on it. Any dissassembly advice? I'll take whatever you've got.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

You'll need an 18mm cone wrench, 4mm allen wrench. From the drive side, use the cone wrench on the cone (duh?) and insert the allen into the end of the axle. That will let you loosen the cone. Loosen the other side with the cone wrench, you'll need to leave the allen in the drive side. Pull the driver (splined hub) off and there is a bearing there. I used a socket with a 10 inch extension to drive out the opposite side. It's pretty easy. Mine were really bad, but I raced in extremely wet conditions.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

jackdz said:


> You'll need an 18mm cone wrench, 4mm allen wrench. From the drive side, use the cone wrench on the cone (duh?) and insert the allen into the end of the axle. That will let you loosen the cone. Loosen the other side with the cone wrench, you'll need to leave the allen in the drive side. Pull the driver (splined hub) off and there is a bearing there. I used a socket with a 10 inch extension to drive out the opposite side. It's pretty easy. Mine were really bad, but I raced in extremely wet conditions.


i thought the problem is the axles on these fatboys.. not the bearing


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

This is excellent info here. Thanks for posting all of it from the 2015's being improved to how to replace the bearing.

I gotta say I feel inferior to you guys because I have not worn anything out yet....


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

av8or said:


> i thought the problem is the axles on these fatboys.. not the bearing


I have a Fatboy Expert&#8230;have had it since last December and have 25+ races and many training rides. I have had zero issues with the axle. My bike is heavily upgraded and I probably should have started with the base model. The last race destroyed front and rear wheel bearings, bottom bracket and the brake calipers&#8230;..here's a pic at the finish.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Well, it's a little different on the Comp hub. Drive side is creating a nightmare for me right now. Split ball bearings and half a stuck bearing surface in my freehub. I've got replacements, but I just can't get it out. 
FYI for me it was a 5mm allen, and a 17mm cone wrench. 6001 for each side, and 6902x2 inside the freehub - driveside. Inside the freehub was my failure bearing.

Steel Axle in case anyone wondered.

She's soaking in pb blaster right now. 

...And we're off to the shop.


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## NDTransplant (Feb 6, 2012)

NOT trying to throw salt in a wound...

I was wondering if any Fatboy owners wished for thru-axles, or is it not that big a deal?


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

Dang. I got mud on my rims once..... it was traumatic....


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

No salt sting here. I'm not a thru axle guy on my other bikes, and really have nothing against them, just don't have them. I really think that thru axle or not, the cheap bearings are the culprit for a few of us. I've got a new freehub on the way, and a really nice set of bearings for the whole sheebang. I'll have basically rebuilt myself into better quality.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

NDTransplant said:


> NOT trying to throw salt in a wound...
> 
> I was wondering if any Fatboy owners wished for thru-axles, or is it not that big a deal?


i have thru axle on my bluto..


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## NDTransplant (Feb 6, 2012)

Yes, that's true- if you install a Bluto (which I almost certainly would for the rocky trails of Arizona) you'd have a thru-axle on the front.

I am almost certainly over-thinking specs parts prices geometries. lol

Just wanting to 'get it right' the first time. One question I need to answer is will a fatbike replace my full-suspension 29'er, or be a supplement to the stable? Hard to know until I've had one awhile, I suppose.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I basically replaced a short travel 29er with my Fatboy. The big rear tire feels alot like an 80-100mm travel 29er in the rear thru the rough, but with the climbing efficiency of a hardtail. 

I went with a 120mm Bluto just to slacken it out and fit my riding style better. No regrets at all! I rode the bike hard all summer long in the dusty hardpack and loved it. Cant wait to see how it does in the rain/wet.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

NDTransplant said:


> Yes, that's true- if you install a Bluto (which I almost certainly would for the rocky trails of Arizona) you'd have a thru-axle on the front.
> 
> I am almost certainly over-thinking specs parts prices geometries. lol
> 
> Just wanting to 'get it right' the first time. One question I need to answer is will a fatbike replace my full-suspension 29'er, or be a supplement to the stable? Hard to know until I've had one awhile, I suppose.


that question has been posted so many times.. bottom line, it all depends on you.. how you ride and where you ride will ultimately decide if you want the fatbike to be your primary bike or part of your stable.. me being in san diego, i ride my fatboy primarily on trails here.. i ride it on the beach occasionally and road most of the time.. i have sold my 29er since.. upgraded parts on my fatboy and love riding it anywhere my legs can take me..


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## NDTransplant (Feb 6, 2012)

Thanks, av8or. It seems like nearly every opinion I've read related to all things Fatboy are overwhelmingly positive. Specialized must've got it right. I've yet to ride one, but it's awesome just to look at!


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

I don't really consider my fatbike a replacement for my HT 29er and my Carve Expert 29er is the geo the Fatboy is based on. It's nice to have a second bike to go riding on. The 29er excels in some ways I feel.

Don't own a FS so I couldn't say there. Won't be long though.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

I mostly notice advantage Carve when riding smooth hard packed with slight incline for 15 miles or so. Going as hard my personal hardest which I know would pale to others'. Noticed I used less energy to do it with the Ambit2. Felt like it too.

I figure it's all in the wheel weight and tire width in that instance. That reducing the tire/wheel weight and width on the Fatty would again make all things pretty equal. I prefer to just grab the other bike and go instead though. But, like a monster truck vs a Silverado, upsizing the engine will overcome this. And the fatty will definitely help to upsize the engine.

If I had to or wanted to only have one the Fatboy would stay.

Good to know on the Husker Du's.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

Raced the FB this weekend. I was the only fattie out there. Bike did great.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^looks like you're running SS?


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## Paiogs (Sep 17, 2013)

I had rear hub axle fixed with the SST version by my local LBS. Now cassette tends to get little loose while climbing.

Can someone tell me if Sunrace cassette on Fatboy Comp 2014 need a spacer in between last pinion and free wheel ?

I guess that's the root cause and they did forget to add.

How thick it is ?

thanks guys


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

^^not SS. 1x10. 

^not sure about the 14s, but my 15comp had no spacer with the sunrace. Switched to sram.


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## Paiogs (Sep 17, 2013)

Still in trouble.... Too bad


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## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

Demo'd one with the Bluto last week. It was a short ride but pretty fun. My first time on a fat bike.


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## barry1me (May 9, 2008)

jackdz said:


> I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.


Can you list your mods? 27.4lbs with peddles is solid!
I just weighed today and I was 28.49lbs with peddles, cage, speedo, and some mud.


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## jackdz (Aug 12, 2010)

barry1me said:


> Can you list your mods? 27.4lbs with peddles is solid!
> I just weighed today and I was 28.49lbs with peddles, cage, speedo, and some mud.


See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatboy-upgrade-picture-thread-933049.html


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## barry1me (May 9, 2008)

jackdz said:


> See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatboy-upgrade-picture-thread-933049.html


good work...I see you have a 17.5...I will reweigh mine with no mud, and see how much it is. Im running a 19 with stock crank, brakes, stem.


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## scblur (Oct 12, 2006)

Picked mine up Tuesday. Finally got to ride fri and sat. Climbs up steep wet, root covered technical sections like the wheels are filled with helium.


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

Picked mine up today...some initial snaps...


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

I couldn;t find a Specialized Facebook "Fan" page so I created one...join up if interested...

https://www.facebook.com/fatboyfanboy

Show us your Fatboy


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Any of you colder climate folks had a chance to try out the 4.6 Ground Controls in the snow yet? Still fall over here in NE, hoping to hear some good things about float and snow performance before the winter starts.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I used my Fatboy last winter. The Ground Controls worked great. I rode with guys on Nates and I would say they were mostly comparable, perhaps slightly better in the snow. They are a bit less aggressive than nates, but they are wider.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Can't go wrong with gc's in/on snow. They just plain work. And are reasonably light for the size. Not snowshoe light, but a bit better paddler I'd say.

rog


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

How do the GC's set up as tubeless?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Cape Codder said:


> How do the GC's set up as tubeless?


Easy money. I did mine with a split tube. You will likely have to put a ratchet strap around the tire to push the beads onto the rim so you can get the tires to take air. With the ratchet strap on the tire I inflated one of mine with a floor pump.


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.

Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.

Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

I


NRS1FREAK said:


> Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.
> 
> Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.
> 
> Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...


I think you have a bad case of ocd.. You bought a bike to be ridden and hence some paint chips on the frame will occur.. Otherwise don't ride it.. If you really want to protect your bike, get some clear tape.. You're making it too obvious.. And don't worry about your downtube.. I don't have anything there and i ride the trails hard.. No paint chips there


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

I haven't had a chance to ride it. I've had my Giant NRS 1 for like 15 yrs and have done lots of XC riding mostly up hill, don't worry I'll get use out of the new one too.


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

If you really wanna protect the frame, I'd rather take care about parts that are nearest to the tires. And also to chain and especially the part of right chainstay near front derailleur. In case of chain fall or it sticks to chain wheel... So protect outer part of chainstay and front part of BB at chain side.
But in fact - after one or two small scratches you'll probably stop paying attention to the painting. 



NRS1FREAK said:


> Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.
> 
> Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.
> 
> Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...


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## sryanak (Aug 9, 2008)

av8or said:


> I
> 
> I think you have a bad case of ocd.. You bought a bike to be ridden and hence some paint chips on the frame will occur.. Otherwise don't ride it.. If you really want to protect your bike, get some clear tape.. You're making it too obvious.. And don't worry about your downtube.. I don't have anything there and i ride the trails hard.. No paint chips there


Putting aside the OCD question, I have had my downtube dented a couple of times over the years from rocks flipped up by the front tire, not sure tape would have helped, so paint chips are a possibility. But, for sure, ride it and don't worry too much about the paint.


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

sryanak said:


> Putting aside the OCD question, I have had my downtube dented a couple of times over the years from rocks flipped up by the front tire, not sure tape would have helped, so paint chips are a possibility. But, for sure, ride it and don't worry too much about the paint.


For racing cars for ralley they use 3M transparent tape. Also for new cars sold to customers. E. g. on my Fabia, there is this tape at the lower part just befor rear wheels. Look at your car, or to any car newer than 5 yeras. It's quite usual.
And if this is enough to protect the car with it's high wheel spins, it is surly enough for bike frames


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Guys... I cared more about covering up the yellow than protecting the paint... Geez...


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

lol, okay, youd probably be horrified if you saw where I take my fattie (thorns, brush, sticks, scratches, etc.) I crashed going over a log the other day and put a small dent in her top tube already. ride her raw.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^I think it looks great. I've thought about trying to black mine out entirely. Good on ya.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Alu is for beer cans. 

rog


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

Anyone use a bash guard? Which one?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Factory effex Black 16 mil universal vinyl is a great match for the Fatboy black paint if you want to protect paint or black out the factory accents. The clear works well if you don't want to block decals. I've used it on dirt bikes for years and it does a great job protecting wear areas and helping objects slide across it rather than scrape across your paint. 

No OCD here, but for $14 and half an hour of taping my bike will look a lot better down the road.


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Just a question for all fatboy riders 

How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.

After many yrs on rd and XC racing I tend to have mine a fair way below my seat. I guess it is going to be trial and error, I have a set of 700mm carbon flat bars I can throw on but wondering what you experienced fatties think. 

Is a wider riser bar an advantage? or should I run a similar width to my 29er race bike?


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## skr29er (Jan 14, 2012)

jackdz said:


> I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.


Curious what your build is to get down to 27lbs. That's awesome...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Xylx (Mar 18, 2005)

*Bar height*



fletchog said:


> Just a question for all fatboy riders
> 
> How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.
> 
> ...


I put on a Ritchey 32 degree 80mm stem. It put the bars (RF Next risers) dead even with the top of the saddle. What can I say, I'm old. Not sure I'm going to stick with the stem. Will see how things work out after the snow falls, which is supposed to be in three days.


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## Smokin Slow (Oct 7, 2014)

Picked up my new fatty, first time fat and its been 20 years since I rode a mtn bike. One thing about this bike is I just can't help but smile every time I ride it! Only mods are my own custom camo rim strips and a WIDE stand to accommodate those tires!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

fletchog said:


> Just a question for all fatboy riders
> 
> How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.
> 
> ...


I think it's a very personal preference thing. A year ago, I was running 660 bars on all of my bikes and riding great. Now, I'm riding 730-740 (typically with a shorter stem), and when I ride anything smaller, it feels unstable. I've also come up more and ride my bars about level with my saddle, and sometimes a smidge higher. Old, yes, but I also find it allows me to breathe better and relax my shoulders. I currently have my fatboy setup with the Bluto at 120, a 50mm stem and 710 bars.

I'd say throw the carbon bars on and feel it out. It takes all of about 10 minutes to swap a pair of bars...


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Went for a ride and didnt notice the slightly narrower width or los of height going from riser to flat. Felt quite comfortable going down the big flights of timber stairs to the beach.

Have also put on a Thompson setback post which feels better than the std post

I liked the carbon bar feel more than anything.

Am really enjoying the beach riding, great decision geting the fatboy over building a 29 SS


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Bike shop has a FB with full XTR, CF cranks, post, bars, super expensive saddle... You get the picture 

It weighs 27.8

FYI


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## soloyo (May 30, 2012)

last updates


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

I love the orange on this bike. I think it looks great.


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Had my Inaugural ride yesterday and it went AWESOMELY! LOL Best blind buy EVAR!










Did some more sticker work to cover up the Yellow so I wouldn't look my friend's bike, his is the same model. Also made some white Specialized stickers for it.


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Fatboy SL 26 lbs 15 ounces with pedals...


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

MichaelHumpal said:


> Fatboy SL 26 lbs 15 ounces with pedals...


WOW - nice.

What part of the country did you buy that?


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## new8812 (Aug 14, 2014)

Busted my rear hub yesterday: Cassette body and the bearing under it gone wild. Took it to LBS and spec send a complete new wheel, no question ask. 1300 km, 2 months. Seem to be the same hub, will see... But way to go for service! ;o)


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Rode the fatboy on some of the trails I race on last night.....interesting but awesome fun. not goig to sell my superfly but the FB is a great training tool and seems to have me smiling al the time.
Here we are going over the top of the You yangs


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## Stump 29 (Dec 12, 2009)

fletchog said:


> Rode the fatboy on some of the rails I race on last night.....interesting but awesome fun. *not goig to sell my superbly* but the FB is a great training tool and seems to have me smiling al the time.


Sure you're not. :lol:


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

Stump 29 said:


> Sure you're not. :lol:


The more bikes you have, the more you are a person.

I'm six.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

new8812 said:


> Busted my rear hub yesterday: Cassette body and the bearing under it gone wild. Took it to LBS and spec send a complete new wheel, no question ask. 1300 km, 2 months. Seem to be the same hub, will see... But way to go for service! ;o)


they upgraded my samox crankset to e.thirteen from the expert just 'coz i lost the puller cap on the samox.. had the bike for only 3 mos.. very happy customer..


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## jpaa (Oct 2, 2014)

Nice bike...


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## jpaa (Oct 2, 2014)

Just me...


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

Anyone got an idea on how much the FB rims weigh?


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

*I try not to take offense*


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## sooshee (Jun 16, 2012)

Today I pretty much impulse-bought a Fatboy! Came home from work yesterday and was super sad about how snowy it was and I really wanted to ride. So bam! Got the tool for the job! 

All stock for now... but I might put on a some carbon bars that I have laying around, and I ordered a frame bag.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Jeepnut22 said:


> Anyone got an idea on how much the FB rims weigh?


762 grams on my scale.


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

*first ride, fun.........*

had a blast!


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## new8812 (Aug 14, 2014)

aussieinswitzerland said:


> After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.


Go back to the shop, they are VERY good on warranty return, excellent service.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

aussieinswitzerland said:


> After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.


Spesh have always been the same - decent R&D for frames/geo etc but component parts are terrible

My PF30 BB bearings lasted 3 weeks, which plainly is a joke


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

BB's and rear hubs have always been issues on Spesh bikes until you pay the big $ (even then, depending on if it's a "house" brand or if they doll out the cash to actually put someone else's decent equipment on).


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## herve (Jun 13, 2005)

you just paid to have "specialized " write on your frame . 

you re not alone to have bearings problems here in france , it s same i ve already change bottom bracket and last week rear wheel bearings .

excuse my poor english ...


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Stump 29 said:


> Sure you're not. :lol:


The Superfly is an amazing race bike, much faster than I'll ever be.
The Fatboy has opened up a whole new world of terrain for me, and it is great training having to push that little bit harder
So glad I bought this over a 29er SS


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

Oh man, I feel like I'm cheating with this bike. I visited a old bike trail that I haven't been to in a very long time. It was effortless. LOL Also, named the bike. xD


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Rode some pretty rocky, boney stuff this weekend. The Fatty hung right in there with a dude on a pretty nice Stumpy. The other guy on a hard tail 27.5 Storck did not fare so well...


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## Toldto (Aug 16, 2013)

My first year w fboy.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

I've just fitted a Bud up front as conditions have gone muddy.

The GC's were skating and darting all over the place - super dangerous

Plenty of clearance between the fork stansions.

Knobs are huge


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've been riding mine fatboy in sloppy conditions over the past 2 months with no issues at all with the GC tires. It is the only fat tire I've ever ridden, so I guess I wouldnt know if I was missing out on anything, but what I have seems pretty sweet so far.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

I have ridden Hüsker Dü's, Nates, Ground Controls and a Bud. The HD's were the least capable of all. Nates were awesome in most all terrain. I find the GC's to be equal to the Nates, except bigger- so they get great purchase in the rear, but almost more self-steer in the front on dirt + lower psi's. Nothing I've ridden beats the Bud in front in deep snow. (Though maybe some of the newer offerings might- I dunno).


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

During the summer when it was dry adn hard pack I ran about 8psi and didnt have to many issues with self steer unless I dropped to the 5psi range. In the wet I run 5psi and it seems to grip the roots/rocks real nice and just floats over mud and puddles and that. 
Compared to my trail bike there is a TON more traction so I'm pretty happy.


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## RUSOR (Aug 12, 2013)




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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

Apologies for the most likely novice question!

Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Swing by your LBS. They should have a bunch laying around. Or pickup a "fancy" new cap and you get a new screw with it.


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

Seventh-777 said:


> I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for?
> 
> Apologies for the most likely novice question!


I have the Orange Fatboy (with the blue accents/stickers) and picked up the blue one for the bling factor: Headset Top Cap 1 1 8" | eBay


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Looks like way to much torque on that bolt? Might want to have the LBS check your headset.


Seventh-777 said:


> I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)
> 
> Apologies for the most likely novice question!
> 
> Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

*it rocks!*

Loving this bike!


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday


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## jan_nikolajsen (Oct 28, 2011)

Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding. 

If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes. 

High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

jan_nikolajsen said:


> Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding.
> 
> If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes.
> 
> High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?


Lbs said hardly any grease in there.. Never rode my fatboy in the rain.. never seen mud as well.. tires were hosed after every trail ride but the hub was avoided at all cost and bike was cleaned and dried after ( i take good care of my stuff, especially after all the money in parts invested ).. Soon as i heard the ticking sound this am riding on the streets, i knew it was my rear hub.. Prepared for the worst after hearing stories of hub failures in fatboys.. Anyway, lbs said my axle is fine, just bad bearings.. Took it out for a ride again this pm and everything was quiet..


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

I checked my front and rear hubs yesterday, no grease at all under hub end caps. Rear hub axle looked like steel, front hub axle was definitely made of alloy.

After removing the end caps, I couldn't remove the freehub by just pulling it out, how should it be done?

Going to check if the BB is completely dry today...


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

The freehub does just pull off, with some difficulty. You might have to use a soft hammer to tap out part of the axle. The bearings are sealed. There should be no grease outside of the seals. When I replaced my freehub with an xdriver, everything looked okay. I think these hubs are made by Formula btw.


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## Pillage&Burn (Jul 18, 2008)

Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.


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## adaycj (Sep 30, 2009)

av8or said:


> so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday


The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.

Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

adaycj said:


> The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.
> 
> Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?


My lbs ( where i bought the fatboy ) was the one who decided it was not under warranty.. Paid $55 to replace the bearings.. They have been very good with warranty so far.. Lost my puller cap on my samox crankset last month and just needed that part, they however called up spesh and was able to upgrade my crankset to e.thirteen, the same as the expert for free.. They could have just said i'm sol but they got my new cranks..


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## Stump 29 (Dec 12, 2009)

Seventh-777 said:


> I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)
> 
> Apologies for the most likely novice question!
> 
> Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)


Yeah! The original part was cheapo. Got this from Kustom Caps. Colors matched my Expert.

Sugar Skull w/ Bolt Bicycle Headset Cap by KustomCaps | KustomCaps



I use this tool to tighten stuff...

Ritchey Multi-Bit Toqkey Wrench


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

If you guys are stripping out that bolt, then you are over-tightening the headset or improperly adjusting. You only need a light pre-load on those headset bearings to take out any play.


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## FitmanNJ (May 23, 2011)

My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.

With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration. 

Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

The Fatboy geometry is a copy of the Carve/Crave 29er, so I wouldn't see a slimmer rim/tire combo creating any problems for you. Just my 2 cents.



FitmanNJ said:


> My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.
> 
> With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration.
> 
> Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

Pillage&Burn said:


> Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.


yes, it is. I had no choice. they had one and now they have none!


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

I now have the e13 crank and BB on it's way to replace the somax rubbish and also they will pay 100euros towards the rear hub for what ever i choose to do with it which will be a new Hope Fatso hub. Thumbs up!


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Stump 29 said:


> Yeah! The original part was cheapo.
> I use this tool to tighten stuff...
> 
> Ritchey Multi-Bit Toqkey Wrench


Cheers man! I actually have that Ritchey key already and it indeed the goods. I didn't overtorque the top cap bolt in my pic - that's what it looked like when I went to adjust it. It's actually fine (though I'm replacing it anyway), it just looks like whoever put the bike together got sloppy with the wrench.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

My Fatboy expert is also at the LBS with freehub issues. I broke a chain last night and riding it today I noticed it would self shift under load. I tried tuning the rear derailer and noticed that the rear cassette would wobble 3/8". At first I thought the cassette was loose but after double checking the torque the freehub was determined to be the culprit.


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## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

Seventh-777 said:


> Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?


Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

edgeworker said:


> Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.


So was my factory hub, but in a metal on metal snapping, popping kind of way. Glad to hear there is an alternative to the factory POS.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

edgeworker said:


> Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.


Fatsno Rear hub | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

This one, yeah? 190mm for the rear?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I have 320 miles in my fatboy. With atleast half of that in wet conditions. No rear hub issues but im going to keep an eye on it now.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

edgeworker said:


> Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.


Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

...many miles on the Fatboy and swapped out the freehub for an xdriver unit (same design). i only weigh 142# and tend to be light on equipment tho...i have heard Formula makes our hubs, though they looked a lot like my Nova's.


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## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

Paochow said:


> Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?


Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.


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## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

Seventh-777 said:


> Fatsno Rear hub | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England
> 
> This one, yeah? 190mm for the rear?


Yup. I missed the boat on this by replacing mine before it blew up but my buddy's LBS in NH got his warrantied by Specialized with a new Hope as opposed to another stock part.


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## Vincent Billy (Nov 25, 2014)

soloyo said:


> last updates
> View attachment 938245


Hi

can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...

I set up a 190/175 on mine and it seems huge !!!


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

edgeworker said:


> Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.


Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!


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## TN29'er (Apr 24, 2004)

I am considering a fatboy and putting 29er+ on it in the summer. Any thoughts from anyone?


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## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

Paochow said:


> Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!


150mm w/same spokes.


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## FitmanNJ (May 23, 2011)

Does anyone happen to know what a Fatboy medium frame (only) weighs? I'm trying to compare it to the Rocky Mountain Blizzard and Borealis Echo frames for a build I'd like to do soon and the frame weight info doesn't seem to appear on the Specialized website. Thanks.


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## NorthCoastZack (Nov 18, 2014)

Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.

I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them. 

I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Off topic but did your shop tell you that specialized is sold out of every model of fat boy right now? Just saying if another shop has both a 17 & 19 that you can ride back to back it might be worth the drive, especially if you want the bike now.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm 5'10" on the nose. I ride a 2013 Stumpjumper Evo in medium with a 60mms stem and I've had an Enduro Evo, Fsrxc and a Rockhopper Pro 29, all in medium size. 
When I bought my Fatboy I tried a medium and a large and ended up getting a large. I swapped to 740mm bars and a 45mm and it is a perfect fit. It feels stable without being sluggish and I love the longer wheelbase of the large. The only issue I have is that with my command post extended fully it is too tall. I may need to switch to a 100mm version or a KS Lev.


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## Xylx (Mar 18, 2005)

NorthCoastZack said:


> I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same.


I am 5'11" and have a 32" inseam. I went with the large frame. Seems right. I put on a 80 mm stem with more rise (way more) and am very happy with the geometry. Normally I would be all about erring on the downside of size, but I don't think the medium would be right. You need to just suck it up and buy your GF a Boris or something.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.

Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)


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## Stephen Kunkel (Aug 21, 2014)

I do. 5" Dillinger studded front and rear. 1x11. No issues.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Seventh-777 said:


> Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.
> 
> Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)


Dillinger 5's and the Bud/Lou. D5's actually are slightly smaller than the GC's:
http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/bud-lou-versus-dillinger-5-a-938358.html


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Yeah they are not much bigger than a nate. I think they actually came out to be a 4.25 tire. They fit my Mukluk no problem.


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

You guys rock. Thanks!


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## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

NorthCoastZack said:


> Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.
> 
> I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them.
> 
> I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!


I am 5'11 and have a fatboy large, fits me well, the medium was just to tight for me


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## NorthCoastZack (Nov 18, 2014)

Thanks everyone for your help! I kind of suspected that this would be the case. Wishful thinking I guess. I too normally go on the smaller side of things but in this case I need to at least ride a large again. It will be a week or so before I can get to a shop for a ride but my gut is saying I'll end up with a large, I appreciate the replies! Thanks again!


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

FWIW I'm 5'10, 175lbs and the medium fits me perfectly. Everyone's different though, so definitely take both sizes for a spin if you can!


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Jisch said:


> I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.


Ditto. 6'0", 32 pants. Went large and it felt great stock. Haven't adjusted the fit at all.


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

Just shy of 6'3" and riding a large with no mods. Happy with the fit...I ride larges in almost everything...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## DoNotPay (Aug 13, 2014)

*Fatboy SE?*

I ran into a mechanic from a local LBS that carries Specialized and he told me that there is an upcoming Fatboy SE at a lower price-point. I did a quick search and didn't see anything. Has anyone heard of this?


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

Fatboy SE pics and specs here: https://www.pyorahuolto.com/show.php?type=maasto&id=608


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Right on with the sizing: I am 5'8" with a 32" inseam and the medium fits me quite well. I bumped up my stem to a 70mm -6deg to get a lower XC position, but that is a personal preference. I rode the bike stock out of the box for a couple of weeks too. Specialized did a good job with the cockpit and handling of this bike. It is easy and accommodating.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

plussa said:


> Fatboy SE pics and specs here: -Pyörähuolto.com-


Interesting.... Judging from the price difference between this and the standard Fatboy in (Euros 1499 to 1999) this looks to be about $613 cheaper, which would put it in the $1400 price range of the new low spec Felt in the US. Looking through the specs looks like downgraded brakes, drivetrain, and possibly an alloy fork? Wouldn't be bad though for those folks who end up swapping out most of the parts anyway.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^Wow. If they get into the $1400 price range, they're going to sell like hotcakes.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

They're already selling like hotcakes.


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## DoNotPay (Aug 13, 2014)

It will be nice to have something on a showroom floor that is in the neighborhood $1,500.

FWIW - He said that they have one on order and expect it prior to Christmas. I frequent this LBS, so I'll keep an eye out for it.


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## Drea (Aug 23, 2008)

I have seen quite some people asking about an XD-driver (XX1 freehub) for the stock Fatboy wheelset with the Joytech hubs.

The partnumber is S141000002 and XD-Driver is available from your local Specialized dealer - atleast in Europe it is 

I hope this helps.


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

Just thought I'd pile on. Bought a base Fatboy a few weeks ago - intended use is winter singletrack riding in the snow here in Denver, CO. Hint hint weather gods. Normal bike is a Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon. So far just dirt - and gotta say I really like the bike - I like the way it ride and handles. Yeah its heavy but it climbs pretty well, but you do get bounced around a little by the tires. I'm trying to enjoy the bike as-is and not start upgrading things - we'll see how that goes. But I did add a new stem with a little more rise and a carbon riser handlebar - between the two my riding position is where it should be. Anyway - I've never been much of a fan of the big bike companies but Specialized did a great job if you ask me. Now if it we could just get some snow.....

Cheers


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do


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## NRS1FREAK (Aug 23, 2004)

^It's not a matter of if, but a matter of how soon I do it.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do


Agreed. But if you swap tires a lot, I've found the lighter specialized 26x2.3-3.0 tubes end up weighing about the same as Stans/rim tape and are a lot easier to setup. You do lose the puncture protection though so not a good option in thorny areas.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

A tubeless setup can be done successfully on these wheels with proper taping technique. You need to take care to do a good job with your taping due to the vent holes on the perimeter of the rim. You also need to use a non-porous tape or put enough layers so that the air does not bleed through all of the cutouts in the center. 

It is a very worthwhile modification for this bike, imho, as it allows you to run super low pressures while maintaining flat protection. You will lose roughly 1.5 pounds of weight total. Once taped up, the Ground Controls sit nice and snug on the rims. I've run pressures as low as 3 psi in wet and cold conditions with no problems.

For tape, I have had success with Gorilla, Nashua UL duct, 3M Extreme Transparent, and even regular grade duct tape 4" wide. I thought the Gorilla worked the best. They all came out to roughly 100-120 grams of tape per wheel. With the thinner tapes, I needed to run multiple layers to get a good seal. With the thicker tapes, I was able to get away with one layer, provided I was careful.


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## floorguy (Aug 13, 2014)

Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

^At least I can see all four models, only the Fatboy SL is missing.

^^ I have had success with cling film. I wrapped tightly around the rim 8 times, taped the seam with Scotch tough duct tape and pushed the valve through the wrap. Inflated very easily thanks to the concave shape the tight wrap makes, and has been holding air nicely for 3 weeks now. Weight approximately 10g per wheel...


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## celdred1 (May 3, 2007)

I watched a youtube video out of the UK on this method. Would like to try. can you tell me what kind of cling wrap? Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good? 
Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

Vincent Billy said:


> Hi
> 
> can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
> 100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...
> ...


Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!


I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

Thanks!


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## RaceFace-suit (Jun 29, 2011)

jester6578 said:


> I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.
> 
> Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?
> 
> Thanks!


Hey Jester,

Haven't heard of any real issues _yet_ as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.

I'm running this exact setup on our Fatbike Mule which happens to be a Fatboy, so I'm pretty confident in this setup. Other than wanting a wider chainline, I can't really see a reason to run the 190 spaced spindle with a 1x setup. When the 190mm spaced standard was introduced, everyone loved the ability to run the wider tires, btu we heard lots of negative feedback regarding the massive Q-Factor you were forced into. That's why the 170mm spaced spindle w/ flipped DM seems to be the best of both worlds; tighter Q and the ability to clear 4.8" tires.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

jester6578 said:


> I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.
> 
> Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?
> 
> Thanks!


Not positive what this is all in reference to, but I had a RF Next SL 175 length, 170 spindle running with a RF Direct Mount ring and ran it just fine w/ a 42t ring in back and Ground Control. DM ring was not flipped to err out, but in.


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## Fattt (Nov 30, 2014)

floorguy said:


> Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.


You might have to change region to view it.

The Australian site doesn't list the SE version. If I change to U.S. I can view it.

I wonder if there are any shops that would ship an SE model to Australia for me. We'll probably get dudded, and won't be offered this model...


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

celdred1 said:


> Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good?
> Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C


Regular kitchen grade works, and you can split the roll with a utility knife so you get two rolls that are just enough wide for Fatboy rims.


 Wipe the rim edge clean with alcohol, to make sure the first layer of cling wrap grips the edge and does not slip
 Wrap around 5-10 times. Keep the the wrap tight and stretched all the time to avoid wrinkles.
 Tape the seam with gorilla tape or clear duct tape
 Push the valve through the wrap and tighten the nut
 Very carefully install the tire and do not break the top wrap layer at this point
 Because the wrap does not touch the rim fully at this point, inflating is very easy. Tire bead should be touching the wrap already. I used a compressor and put sealant when putting the tire on, no need to inflate/deflate/break the bead. Using a floor pump only could be possible too... Tire bead was wet of sealant from previous installation, so it was slippery and popped easily. A slippery tire bead also does not grab the wrap, as it's kind of tacky.
 After the tire has popped, do the Stan's shake and trim the edges with a utility knife. Air pressure now presses the wrap tightly around rim like tape. 8 layers are actually quite strong, just try pushing your finger through it.

Here's how the rim looks after 8 tight wraps done with a full-width roll:


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

My only concern about the cling wrap method - can you remount tires without having to re-do it? Seems like there's a good possibility of wrecking it when you remove a tire. It looks like a great option.


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

No, it's one-time use only just like the popular split tube ghetto method. But cheaper to replace...


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Gotcha, I re-use split tube liners (I'm on my third tires with my current split tubes). I don't change tires that often, so cling wrap is still a good option, I'll try it with my next tire change.


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

I recently got a Fatboy and tried Scotch Transparent tape on the front wheel, and Tyvek tape on the rear following this writeup: Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

They both sealed up so easily I had to do a double take (w/o wrapping a tube around, just horizontal on a bucket w/ "loose" bead down). I also started with 4oz of Orange Seal. They've lost a bit of air, so I'm going to add 2 more oz to each and I think that'll do it. I don't hear any sloshing anymore, and I can't find any specific leaking air, so I think the tires just need to be plugged up a bit w/ sealant.

I'll update again, but it was so damn easy that even if I need to pump up before a ride, I'd do it again every time.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Once you get the system sealed, it loses virtually no air. I have found the Ground Controls to be quite good in that regard. I have also taken them off and remounted several times with no issues. The tires work really well tubeless. My tires weighed 1,500 grams each. This partially explains their durability. These are high quality tires with uniform dimensions.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.


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## new8812 (Aug 14, 2014)

Canadian site still have them: Specialized Bicycle Components


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

dcubed said:


> What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.


base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

dcubed said:


> Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?


you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

For how I have been using this bike (ocean beach, snow, mud, road salt etc.). The lower end the components, the better. When you wear them out, you can find great deals online to upgrade or just keep buying the cheap stuff. Given how heavy the wheels are, I doubt you will notice much difference in the performance unless you are racing. The x7 has been fine


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

dcubed said:


> Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?


The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.

The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.

If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

RaceFace-suit said:


> Hey Jester,
> 
> Haven't heard of any real issues _yet_ as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.
> 
> ...


Hey Suit,

Thanks for your response before! I just installed the Next SL cranks and had a couple of questions:

With the preload ring, I didn't use the crush washer - is that correct?
When I tried using the spindle shims (as well as the Specialized large spacers), tightening the crank arm was putting tension on the bearings. I didn't use them and took up the small bit of slack with the preload ring - do you have a similar setup on the Fatboy Mule? Or are you using a RaceFace BB as well?
When I tightened the preload ring "finger tight", the cranks spun freely, but when I tightened the bolt on said ring, it put tension on the bearings and they were binding. I did a bit of trial and error and backed the ring off just enough so that there wasn't tension when I tightened that bolt - is this normal?

As they are setup right now, the cranks seem awesome! Just want to make sure I did it right!

Thanks!


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

av8or said:


> you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..


How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

Thanks for the perspective. My LBS has no Experts, only the base model, hence my questions.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

dcubed said:


> How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?


i lost the puller cap on my samox crankset.. told my lbs if they can get the part for me otherwise it will be next to impossible to remove the crankset.. they spoke with spesh and spesh sent the the whole e.thirteen bb and crankset..


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

dcubed said:


> How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?


I got a freebie upgrade to Turbine Cinches. The drive side pedal threads on my crappy Samox stockers stripped out, and they just ended up replacing them with the RFs.


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

jester6578 said:


> The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.
> 
> The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.
> 
> If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.


I've been pleased with the basic performance of these parts. I didn't think there was enough of a difference between the price of a Base and the price of the Expert to warrant the extra expense for a novice rider like myself. In fact, during test rides, the biggest difference I noticed was in the pedals with the Bennies on the Expert feeling mighty tasty.

My experience so far has reinforced the wisdom of that decision, and I'll upgrade when or if and when the initial items give way...or I become a lot more demanding rider...or both.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

av8or said:


> base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same


You forgot the most important one.... RED!!!










Although after seeing the Orange in person, and watching Koekoek flog it in this vid (



) it is a awesome looking bike as well.


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## grunkster (Feb 3, 2011)

Cool vid!! Love my "orange crush".


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

64km on the beach today. Fatboy at Blackrock on the Victorian West coast


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## BlackPenquinn (Nov 7, 2014)

I have been riding an IBIS Mojo since 2007 as my go to MTB bike. This August I got a Fatboy. I had to replace some parts on the IBIS this fall, so I started to ride the FatBoy. I always thought it was fun, but I really missed the feeling of FS.

After riddindin the bikes back to back on the same trails, I'm thinking the Fatboy is the much more capable bike in this terrain. I just had to get my self in a hard tail frame of mind. 

BUT
I find I get FAR more pedal strikes on the Fatboy!!! Even though it's fully sprung, the IBIS BB etc just feels nicely tucked away. Any thoughts? Is it my riding style?

RIDING CONTEXT
This winter I have been riding a trail that is very rocky and rooty. It's Canadian Shield type riding with not a lot of "climbs", but tons of large irregular rocks, on top of a rock base that goes to the Earths core. Very technical, very bumpy, 20 feet of "flow" at a time.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?


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## majack (Mar 10, 2010)

dcubed said:


> I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?


You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

majack said:


> You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.


The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I put Shimano SLX 180 rotors and SLX brakes on my Fatboy. Used the stock front adapter and it works great!


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^This. The stock adapter and rotor will work with your XT brakes. And they're very worth the upgrade. Any Shimano brakes (Deore, SLX, XT) are a very worthwhile upgrade...


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

Just did this upgrade myself and used the stock front adaptor.


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## majack (Mar 10, 2010)

okcorral0 said:


> The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.


You are correct Sir, I just misread it. And I did not have my normal pot of coffee in me when I read this I see. Thanks for the correction.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

okcorral0 said:


> The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.


Thanks. Are the stock rotors ok or should I get Shimano XT rotors as well?


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## wrc2006 (Nov 2, 2007)

Most people speak highly of the shimano ice tech rotors. I don't think you'll do any harm just putting the new brakes on with the old rotors for now and seeing how they work. I'd actually be interested in your results, as I am in the same boat with wanting to replace the squealing pigs, I mean Tektro's, that Specialized put on the FatBoy. I'd have been much happier with Avid BB5s. The one upside of them is that I've been intentionally carrying more speed into and out of corners as I do anything I can to avoid using the brakes. I figured if I bedded them in well they'd be OK, but they are pretty terrible.


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

My video of warble:

Tektro Gemini cold weather warble: 




I replaced with m785 and icetechs. So much nicer...


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

If you want new brakes and don't want to spend the coin on the XT's, then the Shimano Deores are very good. I'd have a hard time telling the difference between them and the higher spec SLX and XT brakes.


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

cycloxer13 said:


> The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.


Mine squeeled when dry as can be seen in the video I posted above. It was cold-ish out. Somewhere around 38 F.


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Sorry, I did not realize you have Tektro's. Just take them off and throw on some Shimano brakes & rotors. The Deore or SLX are plenty good, reliable, consistent, and easy to setup. If you want more bling, you can go for XT's, but you probably don't need them.

If I had to choose, I'd opt for a complete SLX system as it is your best bang for the buck.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

av8or said:


> Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r
> 
> View attachment 955351


You can reach those short little stubby levers from your natural hand position on the grips?

I have SLX brakes sitting in my closet but they never made it onto my Fatboy because of the silly short levers.

Does the base Deore (non SLX/XT) have longer levers? Or does the Fatboy Expert have this reach issue as well?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Not sure if it is the same, but here is the Deore's reach. Works about perfect for 1 or two finger braking...


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

I have the same except no ends.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I had to switch to Trigger shifters with my SLX brakes. I like to hold on to the ends of the bars and I couldnt reach the lever real well without accidentally shifting the bike.
Shimano does have a long lever model that has levers shaped more like the old Elixir brakes.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)

I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

Jim Hannoonen said:


> I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)
> 
> I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.


The stock Expert comes with Deore brakes. How did Spesh deal with those levers, which I assume are the same length as SLX/XT.


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

*FB Pro*

Can't wait to take this thing out. Saturday is it's maiden voyage! Recent changes include going tubeless (ghetto), blue Surly rim strips and a few other odds and ends...


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

That's a damn fine lookin steed you got there. :thumbsup:


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

Looks killer!


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system. 

Any other thoughts on it?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Chad_M said:


> I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system.
> 
> Any other thoughts on it?


Yeah, cut it off.


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## ADKMTNBIKER (Nov 29, 2014)

cut it off with a hacksaw


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I went 1x on day one with my fatboy and to be honest I've never even really noticed it. I've considered adding a top chain guide and using the mount though.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

You don't need a chain guide on this bike. I have had absolutely zero problems with the 1X setup and I thrash my bike pretty hard. I was a little hesitant to cut off my guide, but one day I had a few beers and said, what the heck. I used a dremel cutting wheel, smoothed it out, and touched it up with black nail polish. I'll tell you, it is a lot cleaner, especially on the snowy days. Also, the Fatboy SL does not have a guide.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I dont have the a Clutch RD on mine and i'm running a 30t wide narrow front ring and I've never dropped a chain, even on rough descent trails. 

I have the green fatboy and it would be tough to color match the paint if I cut off the mount.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

I can't say for sure, but I would assume you voided your lifetime frame warranty by taking a hacksaw to it.

Hope you don't have any issues down the road...


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe. 

Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.


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## dcrna1 (Sep 18, 2011)

Just got the news that my SL shipped today and will be here late next week.


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## Jim Hannoonen (Mar 28, 2013)

cycloxer13 said:


> Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe.
> 
> Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.


Guess I just got served.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Haha, no no, I can understand why not everyone would want to do this 'mod'. You gotta be a little nuts and fortunately, I am. In my professional opinion it'll be okay. That being said, I didn't design this frame and I have no idea if the tube thicknesses are different on this model vs. the SL (it would be unlikely). If I was really crazy I could model the whoel thing up and run an FEA...or...I could just cut it off and ride the bike and see what happens. (I won't tell you how a lot of real engineering goes...)

There aren't a ton of stresses between the BB shell and the seat tube in the zone where that mount was welded. It's a pretty low risk mod if you are careful with the dremel. When in doubt, you can just leave a little extra material. That's what I did. I just didn't want the mount sticking out there ad having snow build up.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

So many pages in this thread... So like between the Fatboy and Fatboy Expert- main differences are the brakes and crankset, right? 

Worth the $700 difference?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Yes, I mean you get minor bump ups in wheel spokes, bars, & saddle, but if you are going to change all of that anyway and/or you don't care, you get the same great frame, fork, & tires - the core of the bike.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Expert also has better pedals. The Expert's spec will buy you more time before upgrades, but if you are going to swap them out anyway, you might be better off going with the base or maybe even the SE. I've been satisfied with my experts brakes and drivetrain and don't see the need to upgrade. Buy the one that speaks to you and get out and ride 😃


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

OK, thanks. I usually am loathe to upgrade cranks and brakes but I do mess with the other stuff. Hmm


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Sorry, yes the Expert has really nice alloy flat pedals. Even if you don't like them, they are easily sold for $$$


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

dcubed said:


> I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.


+1 I just sold my Gemini on ebay. I fully disclosed the problems I had. Warble etc...

Other than the warble, they were a decent entry level brake.


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## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

I got rid of the fd mount also. Looks very clean with e13 28t direct mount guidering:









Studded Bud tires and Reverb borrowed from my fs bike:


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

In case I was not clear, the Gemini hydro brakes worked fine. I just wanted better stopping power and the proven reliability that a more expensive brake offers.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

This is a fine mod if you're going to keep it for life or pass it on to someone who will only want a 1X. I am going to 1X and leaving the 'ugly protuberance' for flexibility. I can't predict the future, so I am keeping options open.

Not a critique of your decision, just sharing my perspective before someone gets out their Dremel. Nice job, BTW - it looks really clean.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

It came out okay. I could make it perfect if I wanted to do more paint work. My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior, I will never ride anything else off-road ever again. Years ago I was a big proponent of the 2x9 drivetrain development. This is as revolutionary and a perfect match for fat bikes. It is just so simple and effective.

btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

cycloxer13 said:


> My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior


agreed.



> This is as revolutionary


no it isn't. neither is the bluto. sussy forks and 1x setups have been used for decades.



> and a perfect match for ANY bike.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^FIFY.

rog


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Years ago plenty of cyclocross riders rode 1X setups, but they also ran chain guides, chainring guards, and had to make do with standard cassettes.

Production wide gear range 1X setups with NW chainrings have not been around for decades. The SRAM 10-42 cassette is relatively new (<3 years?) and that wide range is what makes it so useful. SRAM really nailed it with their 1X groups. I forgot to mention clutch derailleurs. The whole system is so much more than just a single ring.

I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

> I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.





> The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.


Ah! See I am going to get the front wheel relaxed for a Bluto anyhow. And if the back hub sucks it'll get replaced too. So that negates the need to pony up for nicer wheels. Seems like the standard Fatboy is for me.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

they made due with standard cassettes cuz they weren't pu$$ies.

rog


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

dcubed said:


> I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?


I had to stand on my big boy wrench. It screeched quite a bit but came out. If it won't budge without a cheater I would take it in, otherwise might strip.


----------



## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

cycloxer13 said:


> I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.


Agreed, I could see the allure of 1x if all I rode was single track or trails, but riding my Fatboy as my only bike for 5+ months out of the year I need more gears.

Yesterday I rode my Fatboy 10 mi to a Fatbike race, raced 15 mi, and then rode home. During the race I needed all of my gears from 22-36 for the hills in technical section to 36-11 on the flat out section on the lake with a 20 mph wind at my back. I probably could have done it on 1x11, but why pay a bunch more $$$ to limit my top and low end.

Speaking of $$$, one nice thing I've found is with everyone wanting 1x11, 2x parts are dirt cheap. I was able to swap out the 3x on my MTB with XT (crank, cassette, derailuer) for less than a 11 speed cassette would cost.


----------



## plussa (Jul 12, 2005)

cycloxer13 said:


> btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.


I agree 66mm chainline is not ideal for taller gears and it almost touches the rear tire, but I don't think the previous setup with Raceface 30t was ideal either. Something in between those would be optimal. Here's a pic of the chain line on 5th gear with 28t. Looks OK doesn't it?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).

Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ub_Spacing_and_Drivetrain_Optimization_v2.pdf


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

fatboy43 said:


> Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!


2300 would be closer


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

fatboy43 said:


> Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....


I'd take your friends GPS with a grain of salt, my Garmin spits out funky lap distances all the time.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.

GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

I am picking a Fatboy up on Wednesday. I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10? From my research and the shops it looked right. Thanks.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

twentyniner29 said:


> I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10?


Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.


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## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

U


cycloxer13 said:


> Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.
> 
> GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.


Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

fatboy43 said:


> U
> 
> Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.


It is probably pretty close as the tires expand a bit when run tubeless. There is only a 2% difference between 2311 and 2362. The most accurate way to measure is to roll out the bike on your intended riding surface and measure the distance traveled for one exact revolution. This helps account for the knobs digging into the ground. It'll make the effective circumference a little smaller on softer terrain, but you are talking 1-2% max.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

cycloxer13 said:


> Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.


Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

twentyniner29 said:


> Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?


You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.


----------



## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

cycloxer13 said:


> You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.


Thanks a lot! Glad I asked!


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## dcrna1 (Sep 18, 2011)

*Fatboy SL just showed up today*

http://forums.mtbr.com/asset.php?fid=921020&uid=577237&d=1421987486


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

cycloxer13 said:


> Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).
> 
> Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ub_Spacing_and_Drivetrain_Optimization_v2.pdf


He forgot Úvodní stránka | Gebhardt

https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/...c742ad194447ebf9b8f88c072/images/IMGP1673.jpg
https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/...c742ad194447ebf9b8f88c072/images/IMGP1690.jpg
https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/...c742ad194447ebf9b8f88c072/images/IMGP1693.jpg
https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/...c742ad194447ebf9b8f88c072/images/IMGP1683.jpg
https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/...c742ad194447ebf9b8f88c072/images/IMGP1680.jpg

Looks this is the only manufacturer, who is able to produce different sizes for cranks for tandem (e.g. 190 mm front x 165 mm rear) and also different left & right, if anybody needs.


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## Murphy1976 (Jan 12, 2010)

fatboy43 said:


> U
> 
> Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.


What I know from Garmin Oregon 450 - most accurate is what is on GPS. (Yes, if you go trails with many curves, then you will lose them in tracklog - try it.) Other thing is, how to interpret these data on the computer. It usually means few meters on km lost, but especially vertical meters are lowered. Base Camp .... - 10 %, Bikemap.net .... - 20 % (in special examples even - 50 %).

Best is Edge - it can combine info from satellite with wheel sensor. But it has only li-ion block, not replaceable AA batteries.


----------



## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Picking my (standard model) Fatboy up on Saturday. My LBS is swapping out the brakes for XT and I'm paying a tad more for X9 trigger shifters. 

I have to say, the value on this is stunning. I've had two Pugsleys before this, just sold the second one to fund the Fatboy. I definitely see where the cost savings went though, but that stuff is inoffensive enough until I upgrade it. The fact that I'm starting in the low 30's instead of 36 lbs is great.

I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

XJaredX said:


> I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?


I'm 175# and have had not issues with the specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes. I wouldn't think you would have an issue


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## SworksDan (Nov 29, 2011)

I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?[/QUOTE]

I weigh 240# with winter kit.. no issues in 6 months with the tubes.. I also have Q-Tube Superlights in another Fatbike with no issues after 3 months..


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Cool thanks. I've always used the Q-Tube SL's with no issues but never anything smaller.


----------



## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

edgeworker said:


> Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.


Weird- they don't show out of stock at their store- assuming these are the right ones....Pressfit 30 fatbike BB


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## edgeworker (Jun 3, 2009)

beats me, maybe they have to come thru Specialized. I'm in no rush


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

twentyniner29 said:


> So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?


I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

Chinman said:


> I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.


Thanks. Grabbing some today.


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

twentyniner29 said:


> So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?


Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

jester6578 said:


> Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.


I used the gorilla tape method with orange subzero. It seems like the tape doesn't hold. Done it 3 times now. Haven't heard of the Tyvek method, please enighten me.


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## mp1022 (Feb 15, 2010)

I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

I've used the taping method detailed in the following link, but use Tyvek tape instead (purchased rolls at Home Depot). The Tyvek is lighter and conforms better than the transparent tough tape mentioned.

Link: http://cyclesinlife.com/tubeless-fatbike-conversion-update/


mp1022 said:


> I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
> Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.


I've been thinking of trying 4" tape, but haven't seen many good options. How thick is it compared to duct tape (or other common tape)? And how many wraps do you do?


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## mp1022 (Feb 15, 2010)

I would say the thickness of the tape is similar to electrical tape. On my first wheel I did one wrap, on the second I did two. That was almost 2 months ago and I haven't lost any air pressure. Putting on the tape takes two people, one to hold the wheel and guide the tape, the other to pull the tape off the roll.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

You guys have talked me into trying this 1 more time. Just picked up some Tyvek tape, going to grab some surly rim strips today. Here is my plan:
Remove Fatboy rim strip
Clean rim and tire bead 
Install surly strip
Clean rim and wipe down rim strip
Install tape to the edge on each side
Install a center piece of tape
Use light heat from heat gun
Install tube and tire 
Inflate to 20psi overnight
Remove tube and add 6oz of Orange subzero. 

I'll let you know the outcome.


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## celdred1 (May 3, 2007)

I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years. 
And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

celdred1 said:


> I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years.
> And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!


I did a similar thing. I got the 24" tubes with removable cores. Inflated and held air without even using any goop. I still added 4 oz. of Stans via the removable core to each tire anyway.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Stem suggestions for my Fatboy?

Looking for a 30-40 degree 60-75mm stem.

Initially looking at this one...

http://www.bontrager.com/model/11233


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
<:: Welcome to Slowtwitch.com ::>: Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

Edit: beat me to it 

Make sure you check what position your bars will be in with a stem calculator...

I went for an On-One

On-One 3D Forged Stem | Planet X


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

bdundee said:


> I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
> : Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator


Understand that. I believe my stock stem is 60 mm and 6 degree angle. I was thinking I could keep about the same reach by just using a longer stem with a 30-40 degree angle.

That on one stem looks nice.


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

I went with an adjustable Specialized 90mm Multi stem Specialized Bicycle Components and also swapped in a 40mm riser Easton EC70 carbon handlebar. The bar is also about 1.5" shorter in overall length and a nice upgrade.


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## bdundee (Feb 4, 2008)

From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I have no experience with the Tektro brakes, but I was on a ride last weekend - there were three different types of brakes on the ride and all three were howling like mad. There's a thread here somewhere talking about brake howl on snow rides. I don't think those Tektro brakes are very good, but don't expect any brake to be squeal free in the winter, unfortunately.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

bdundee said:


> From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.


I just cheated. I did some layouts in CAD. 

A 60mm stem at a 30 degree angle would shorten my reach ~5/16" and raise my bars about an 1"

A 70 mm stem at a 30 degree angle would have the same reach as my stock stem and raise the bars ~1-1/8"

I wouldn't mine shortening my reach just a hair. Now which stem to purchase is the question.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

03'Darin said:


> I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.


I rented a Fatboy last weekend and rode it for 2 days in the snow. The brakes would squeal like crazy the first couple times I used them then it went away the rest of the day. I just assume some snow or other grit was in there and a couple of uses cleaned 'em out.

It really didn't bother me though.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.


The noise will be worse if your bike is on the outside on the way to the trailhead as it gets blasted with moisture, salt, etc...I find it takes a lot longer to burn that off v.s when the bike rides in the car.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Jisch said:


> I have no experience with the Tektro brakes, but I was on a ride last weekend - there were three different types of brakes on the ride and all three were howling like mad. There's a thread here somewhere talking about brake howl on snow rides. I don't think those Tektro brakes are very good, but don't expect any brake to be squeal free in the winter, unfortunately.


I didn't mention in my post that I am new to Fat bikes but I've been year round riding for about 10 years. Over that time I've had a few different brands of disc brakes I've ridden. As you mentioned they do all squeal at some times under certain condition but nothing even close to the amount of squeal these produce or near the volume. We have about 7 of our guys that have all bought fat bikes over the last month. 3 of us have Fatboys with these brakes on. All 3 bikes produce the same noise and most of the times are the only bikes with noisy brakes during the ride.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

03'Darin said:


> I didn't mention in my post that I am new to Fat bikes but I've been year round riding for about 10 years. Over that time I've had a few different brands of disc brakes I've ridden. As you mentioned they do all squeal at some times under certain condition but nothing even close to the amount of squeal these produce or near the volume. We have about 7 of our guys that have all bought fat bikes over the last month. 3 of us have Fatboys with these brakes on. All 3 bikes produce the same noise and most of the times are the only bikes with noisy brakes during the ride.


Not sure what pad size your Tektro brakes use, but I switched to TruckerCo Organic semi metallic pads on my Shimano Deores (Fatboy Expert) and they significantly quieted my brake squeal in the snow. 2pr TruckerCo s Disc Brake Pads Shimano Nexave BR C601M515 M515LA M415 M416 M08 | eBay


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

Somewhat OT, but figure it was fitting for this thread. I got my Bluto and am just waiting on the hub to show up. What's the going rate for the stock carbon fork? I have no use for it, just not sure what to toss it on the 'bay for. Can other bikes even use it?


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

Any bike with a tapered or oversized head tube can use that fork. I'm curious as well - I have a wheel and fork to get rid of (I guess). I had planned on putting it back on for winter, but at this point I just don't see that happening. I would think you could get $150 easily for that fork. The On One carbon fatty fork is $205 for reference.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I believe there was a guy over in the Fatboy SE thread that said he was looking for a carbon fork since the SE is alloy.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/specialized-fatboy-se-pics-941647-3.html


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Paochow said:


> Not sure what pad size your Tektro brakes use, but I switched to TruckerCo Organic semi metallic pads on my Shimano Deores (Fatboy Expert) and they significantly quieted my brake squeal in the snow. 2pr TruckerCo s Disc Brake Pads Shimano Nexave BR C601M515 M515LA M415 M416 M08 | eBay


In the application list it says they fit my bike. $16 shipped is worth a try. I can probably deal with the poor stopping power but the squeal is overpowering.

Anyone else change pads on their Tektro Brakes that can give me input?


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

+another on the ridiculously loud brake squeal

It starts as soon as any water/grit gets on them and doesn't go away until you get a decent long braking done on them

I was thinking of just swapping the front brake for something like an XT or SLX


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Even after a proper break in, I could never get the Tektro to perform very good or not make noise. I swapped over to SLX brakes/rotors pretty quickly.


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

prj71 said:


> I just cheated. I did some layouts in CAD.
> 
> A 60mm stem at a 30 degree angle would shorten my reach ~5/16" and raise my bars about an 1"
> 
> ...


I ended up with a Thompson 90 x 10° and a pair of One-One Fllegle Bars - nice


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## Bugout Bikes (Jan 8, 2015)

Does the fatboy comp have 197 rear? Their site won't let me view the comp model 

EDIT: looks like 190. Darn


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

http://fat-bike.com/2015/01/first-look-specialized-fatboy-sl/


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## Schvizen (Aug 31, 2014)

*TruckerCo organic replacement pads*



03'Darin said:


> In the application list it says they fit my bike. $16 shipped is worth a try. I can probably deal with the poor stopping power but the squeal is overpowering.
> 
> Anyone else change pads on their Tektro Brakes that can give me input?


I also changed the original Tektro pads to the TruckerCo organics. They may not offer as much stopping power, but are significantly quieter. Either way, they work well enough, don't scream or howl like the Tektros, and I don't have any issues locking up the wheels...especially in the snow.


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## erda (Feb 27, 2014)

Picked up my Fatboy on Saturday. So far only a short ride, but impressed with it. 

I do find that the Ground Controls offer great traction in snow, but not so much on ice.

I know that the studded Dillingers are great (my wife has a set on her Cooker), but the price is a bit "steep". Any alternates?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The SRAM grip shift on the Fatboy is listed as S-Series on the Specialized website. 

What model on the SRAM website is the equivalent since they don't even list an S-series?


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## fletchog (May 11, 2009)

Looks like XO are the lowest level, so the S series must be X9 at best. I had a set of XO I replaced mine with. the XO feel a little lighter in operation.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Help! Just received used Fatboy and the headset bearings come out by hand. I thought they were supposed to be tighter. Also I saw that someone here used a Cane Creek fork race on the Orbit headset. Are you sure that's OK? I got one too, cuz I like the idea of the seal, and couldn't find the Orbit one, but it doesn't really feel right, and I don't wanna screw up something.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Specialized frames have integrated cups, so the bearings just drop right into the cups. Add a little grease when you put them in and your good to go.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

The cups are what are pressed in , not the bearings. The bearings just sit in place
Disregard


Pedaling


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Specialized frames have integrated cups, so the bearings just drop right into the cups. Add a little grease when you put them in and your good to go.


 So the frame IS the cup. Got it. Thanks a million. Can't wait to put this baby together.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Thought I'd post an update on my brake squeal situation. Now that I have about 50 miles of trail riding on the brakes the majority of the squeal is gone. They only squeal now when I get snow on them. On the down side the stopping power hasn't gotten any better. I prefer braking with one finger but if your running down almost any grade you just can't slow this thing down well with one finger.

I'm planning on going to trigger shifters as I really don't like grip shift. Any suggestions on a good combo of grip shift and better brakes? I've read that some trigger shifters and brakes have mounting interference issues on the bars?


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## pspycho (Aug 31, 2005)

03'Darin said:


> Thought I'd post an update on my brake squeal situation. Now that I have about 50 miles of trail riding on the brakes the majority of the squeal is gone. They only squeal now when I get snow on them. On the down side the stopping power hasn't gotten any better. I prefer braking with one finger but if your running down almost any grade you just can't slow this thing down well with one finger.
> 
> I'm planning on going to trigger shifters as I really don't like grip shift. Any suggestions on a good combo of grip shift and better brakes? I've read that some trigger shifters and brakes have mounting interference issues on the bars?


I went with X7 Triggers and sold the grip shifts on ebay. Per some above posts, there aren't many options besides SRAM XO for 2x10 grip shifts. I ended up selling my pair for $70 which is retail for X7 triggers as a replacement. I also upgraded to a OneUp Components 42T conversion kit and a RaceFace N/W 30T single ring up front to go 1x10.

The Tektros will be my next replacement/upgrade. FYI on the squealing. The new brakes do need to "bed in" which will reduce the howling somewhat. Very cold and wet weather will make most disc brakes squeal to some degree. My LBS resurfaced my rotors and pads as they were totally glazed with well less than 500 miles of riding. A procedure where they sanded down the rotors and pads with an emery cloth, rubbed them with isopropyl alcohol, and then gently heated the rotors with a propane torch. This was a HUGE improvement but IMHO shouldn't have to be done just a few months into owning the bike.

SRAM/Avid brakes have a "Matchmaker" system to reduce handlebar clutter. They are compatible with at least X7 triggers and above.


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## jtawausau (Aug 19, 2014)

I asked my LBS to replace the grip shifters on my fatboy with trigger shifters. They put X9's on and they work great. My Tektro brakes squeal a little, but I'm usually not laying into them on the single track I ride. We'll see how they fare in the dirt and mud this summer.


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

After 3 failed tubeless attempts I did the split tube. Quick and easy! Totally changed the way the bike rides.


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## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

I replaced the grip shift with X9 shifters, and went for a Shimano front caliper with a 208mm disc, great brakes, no fade on the long downhills I ride and great modulation. Pretty cheap at the LBS as well. Getting rid of the grip shifters was the best mod I have made to my Fatboy by far


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I initially thought I wouldn't like the grip shifters after so many years of using trigger shifters. After a few rides I like them.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

pspycho said:


> I went with X7 Triggers and sold the grip shifts on ebay. Per some above posts, there aren't many options besides SRAM XO for 2x10 grip shifts. I ended up selling my pair for $70 which is retail for X7 triggers as a replacement. I also upgraded to a OneUp Components 42T conversion kit and a RaceFace N/W 30T single ring up front to go 1x10.
> 
> The Tektros will be my next replacement/upgrade. FYI on the squealing. The new brakes do need to "bed in" which will reduce the howling somewhat. Very cold and wet weather will make most disc brakes squeal to some degree. My LBS resurfaced my rotors and pads as they were totally glazed with well less than 500 miles of riding. A procedure where they sanded down the rotors and pads with an emery cloth, rubbed them with isopropyl alcohol, and then gently heated the rotors with a propane torch. This was a HUGE improvement but IMHO shouldn't have to be done just a few months into owning the bike.
> 
> SRAM/Avid brakes have a "Matchmaker" system to reduce handlebar clutter. They are compatible with at least X7 triggers and above.


I've been searching my trigger shift and brake options. I'm looking at doing either the X-7 or X-9 triggers and possibly the Avid D B3 brakes. I can only find a few reviews on the brakes but they seem to all say the stopping power is good, which the stock brakes seriously lack. My squeal has all but gone away but the braking power is still terrible for my liking. Anyone have input good or bad on the D B3's?

While searching brakes and shifters I also stumbled across the Matchmaker option. I've been trying to figure out where my best deal is to buy the shifters, brakes and apparently the matchmaker brakes (which don't seem to come with any of the brakes or shifters). I'm staying with 2X10 sine I want to ride this thing in the summer also and some of the single track we do is somewhat fast. I'm afraid if I go 1 X 10 I won't be able to find the low to high range I'll be looking for.


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## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

*additional info*



av8or said:


> you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..


I have a great LBS, and have had problems with my base fatboy, how did you get the e.thirteen cranks upgrade for free, I am interested, I have gotten other upgrades when things failed but am interested in the cranks as mine are getting gritty
thanks

Edit:
I eliminated the grip shifters and went with X9, great improvement when climbing as well as other off road activities
Cheers,
FGO


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## av8or (Jun 9, 2013)

Father Guzzi Obrian said:


> I have a great LBS, and have had problems with my base fatboy, how did you get the e.thirteen cranks upgrade for free, I am interested, I have gotten other upgrades when things failed but am interested in the cranks as mine are getting gritty
> thanks,


lost my puller cap and lbs requested a part number but spesh sent out the entire e-thirteen crank..


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

03'Darin said:


> I've been searching my trigger shift and brake options. I'm looking at doing either the X-7 or X-9 triggers and possibly the Avid D B3 brakes. I can only find a few reviews on the brakes but they seem to all say the stopping power is good, which the stock brakes seriously lack. My squeal has all but gone away but the braking power is still terrible for my liking. Anyone have input good or bad on the D B3's?
> 
> While searching brakes and shifters I also stumbled across the Matchmaker option. I've been trying to figure out where my best deal is to buy the shifters, brakes and apparently the matchmaker brakes (which don't seem to come with any of the brakes or shifters). I'm staying with 2X10 sine I want to ride this thing in the summer also and some of the single track we do is somewhat fast. I'm afraid if I go 1 X 10 I won't be able to find the low to high range I'll be looking for.


I'd recommend the Shimano series over the Avid's. Deore, SLX, or XT all stop fast and have good feel. I prefer them over even the higher grade Avid's. Difference in shimano models is mostly weight, adjustment ability, and price.


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

*Post Blizzard Ride*


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Paochow said:


> I'd recommend the Shimano series over the Avid's. Deore, SLX, or XT all stop fast and have good feel. I prefer them over even the higher grade Avid's. Difference in shimano models is mostly weight, adjustment ability, and price.


Several of my riding buddies run the XT"S and are very happy with them. My main reason for thinking about the DB3's was because of the matchmaker mounting system setup. I didn't find many reviews on the DB3's but the reviews I did find were good.

I probably shouldn't be cheap about this and just do the XT brakes. I have a couple questions though.

- First will the XT brakes work with the stock rotors or do I need to buy XT rotors?

- Are the XT clamps and levers compatible with Sram trigger shifters?

- What length brake hoses do I need? If it matters the bike is a large and I'll eventually be adding a suspension fork to it.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> - First will the XT brakes work with the stock rotors or do I need to buy XT rotors?
> 
> - Are the XT clamps and levers compatible with Sram trigger shifters?
> 
> - What length brake hoses do I need? If it matters the bike is a large and I'll eventually be adding a suspension fork to it.


They will work with the stock rotors. I used them until I got the Icetechs.

You'll need the appropriate Problem Solvers Matchmaker to bolt the shifters to the brake clamp. Without it, both clamps will live together on the bars just fine. I've not even considered getting the matchmaker.

If you get a pre-bled kit, I think they only come in one size for front and rear each. The front will likely be a little long on the rigid fork, and work just fine on a Bluto. The stock lines are 1000mm front, 1700mm rear.


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

03'Darin said:


> Several of my riding buddies run the XT"S and are very happy with them. My main reason for thinking about the DB3's was because of the matchmaker mounting system setup. I didn't find many reviews on the DB3's but the reviews I did find were good.
> 
> I probably shouldn't be cheap about this and just do the XT brakes. I have a couple questions though.
> 
> ...


I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.


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## alshead (Oct 2, 2007)

^just to be clear, Mineral Oil is fine down to about -10 degrees (well below 32f). There is an excellent article here: Technical FAQ: More on disc brakes in cold weather - VeloNews.com Essentially, if you're not doing much sub 0 (f) riding, any kind of brakes are going to be fine. Some are better than others. I have been running Shimano Deores on my fatty for the last year and have ridden them down to about +5 without any issues. Below that, frankly, I don't really want to be outside (but I'm spoiled-- I live in Colorado).

^Problem solvers makes a kit to "Matchmake" your SRAM triggers to your Shimano brakes, but it's a crappy solution (bulky). SRAM triggers have a lot of adjustability as far as where they're mounted and can often be run either between brake and grip OR on the inside of the brake. I personally find it's much easier to just run them with their separate clamps- with the adjustability, you won't be forced into compromising how far in your reach is on either component.

^Shimanos typically come with an extra barb and olive for trimming the hoses. If you have any experience, or watch a few youtube videos, you can often do a trim without having to re-bleed the brakes. All of this is A LOT easier with a barb insertion tool like this one: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/pro...m=base&adl=1&gclid=CLHTqOzj2sMCFZeJaQodDDkABw. Unless you have a really big bike, both hoses will likely need to be trimmed, but you can probably live with the front being long if you're on a L or XL. Personal preference. Either way, you can install and ride them with some extra hose out the front and then trim later if so desired.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.


????

Rode my Fatboy with mineral oil brakes (Tektro) for 2+ hours in 15 degrees a few weeks ago. Brakes worked flawlessly.

????


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## dirt-nerd (Aug 12, 2009)

Picking up my new Fatboy (1st fatbike) in the next few days!!! Shop is just installing all my parts on it- XT brakes, Raceface turbine cinch cranks, clutch derailleur, slx shifter and Reverb! Bluto & hub will come later. Gave up waiting for my Buscksaw to come in and I save a few dollars for sure. I like riding my Honzo so I am looking forward to the Fatboy for the wet winter riding.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.


I'm in the central Pa area where we seldom see temps around 0. Saying that it's supposed to be -1 here Sunday AM for our weekly group ride. I've been riding in the winter for better than the past 10 years all on hydraulic mineral oil brakes. Temps down as low as -10 with no issues. Our winter temps probably run 15 - 35 degree range. So fluid type isn't really a concern for me.



alshead said:


> ^just to be clear, Mineral Oil is fine down to about -10 degrees (well below 32f). There is an excellent article here: Technical FAQ: More on disc brakes in cold weather - VeloNews.com Essentially, if you're not doing much sub 0 (f) riding, any kind of brakes are going to be fine. Some are better than others. I have been running Shimano Deores on my fatty for the last year and have ridden them down to about +5 without any issues. Below that, frankly, I don't really want to be outside (but I'm spoiled-- I live in Colorado).
> 
> ^Problem solvers makes a kit to "Matchmake" your SRAM triggers to your Shimano brakes, but it's a crappy solution (bulky). SRAM triggers have a lot of adjustability as far as where they're mounted and can often be run either between brake and grip OR on the inside of the brake. I personally find it's much easier to just run them with their separate clamps- with the adjustability, you won't be forced into compromising how far in your reach is on either component.
> 
> ^Shimanos typically come with an extra barb and olive for trimming the hoses. If you have any experience, or watch a few youtube videos, you can often do a trim without having to re-bleed the brakes. All of this is A LOT easier with a barb insertion tool like this one: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/pro...m=base&adl=1&gclid=CLHTqOzj2sMCFZeJaQodDDkABw. Unless you have a really big bike, both hoses will likely need to be trimmed, but you can probably live with the front being long if you're on a L or XL. Personal preference. Either way, you can install and ride them with some extra hose out the front and then trim later if so desired.


Yeah you probably have a good point to just mount them separately for more adjustability.

Now any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.


There was an issue with the seals on early shimano brakes that caused deteriorated performance in cold conditions, but that's been remedied for a while now. Tons of people using them in cold conditions without problems, other brands, too.

That said - be mindful of the seals on the Bluto if you get one and make sure you get the cold seal kit if you're going to be seeing cold temps.


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## Father Guzzi Obrian (May 31, 2014)

Now any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?[/QUOTE]

I put XT's on mine and worked well, but did finally upgrade to 203mm on the front. Great for long downhills, great feedback


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

03'Darin said:


> INow any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?


Look up, dude.


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## majack (Mar 10, 2010)

MichaelHumpal said:


> I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.


This is so old news and was a problem with older brakes. With the new brakes we have today, mineral oil is just as good if not better than DOT based brakes. I have Shimano XT's and I ride in Minnesota and we do get cold in the winter and my Shimanos have worked fine down to -10. Yes they firm up a bit, but they still work in the cold. I know many others that are using Shimano's in the cold and they have no problems also.


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

jcaino said:


> Look up, dude.


I saw your post and thought "am I missing something here"? Then I went back up through the thread and realized I did. Thanks!


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## ohmoxide (Aug 22, 2010)

*My Fatboy*

This bike is friggen amazing. I can't believe how much I enjoy riding it,. Weather is not a concern, I can ride any trail on this thing, I simply do not slip, mud, snow, sand gravel, nothing matters, it just climbs, this should be named The Goat.

The grip shifter are great, lest clutter on the bars, gives it a clean look and when I go down, less to be broken.

I will probably upgrade to a suspension for, I like the carbon, but I would like a bit more plush on my rides down.

-Rob


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

ohmoxide said:


> This bike is friggen amazing. I can't believe how much I enjoy riding it,. Weather is not a concern, I can ride any trail on this thing, I simply do not slip, mud, snow, sand gravel, nothing matters, it just climbs, this should be named The Goat.
> 
> The grip shifter are great, lest clutter on the bars, gives it a clean look and when I go down, less to be broken.
> 
> ...


++1


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.


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## DG40 (Feb 5, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.


Surly Rim Strip For Rolling Darryl > Components > Tires and Tubes > Rim Strips | Jenson USA


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

DG40 said:


> Surly Rim Strip For Rolling Darryl > Components > Tires and Tubes > Rim Strips | Jenson USA


Those are Surly. I specified I wanted the Specialized ones.

I checked out the Surly ones and they seem weak and cheap, plus the tube color bleeds through them since they are so thin.

I want the red ones that come on the Fatboy expert


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## Godfather053 (Jan 24, 2015)

As I said before...I cannot leave well enough alone. 
Even though the bike was fine as is/was...today I made a few upgrades to my FatBoy Expert.... Medium
Surly Light tubes for the obvious reason, Easton carbon riser bar to help dampen the vibes and help keep the fingers a little warmer, Sella Italia Flite saddle because I really like this saddle, (I have one on my other two bikes) and had a spare in the parts bin.

Dropped 1.29 lbs in weight bringing the total down to 30.01 lbs.
for fun I took off the valve caps to bring it to 30lbs even.
The Thomson seat post will shed some more weight as soon as it arrives.


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

prj71 said:


> I initially thought I wouldn't like the grip shifters after so many years of using trigger shifters. After a few rides I like them.


I have to agree. Especially for Winter riding with pogies...


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## JASESPESH (Nov 19, 2014)

G'day guys from Australia!

Loving my Fatboy with carbon forks, but fancy getting a Bluto
Local bike shop can get me a Bluto for $600 Aussie dollars, which I'm going to order.
But know hub needs changing, and read too many post and my brain is frazzled  so do I just need a 135/15mm with adapters (any hub or fatso specific?) or have to be a 150mm fatso(would like the option of sapping between forks I reckon)
Seen some hope hubs on bike24 site, any good or shop around( local is very expensive if they order hub)

Thanks guys and keep on rolling


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## JASESPESH (Nov 19, 2014)

Sorry if I'm wrong place, not that computer savvy.


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

JASESPESH said:


> G'day guys from Australia!
> 
> Loving my Fatboy with carbon forks, but fancy getting a Bluto
> Local bike shop can get me a Bluto for $600 Aussie dollars, which I'm going to order.
> ...


You can either get a dedicated 150mm hub, or you can get a 135mm hub that is convertible via end cap replacements. Hope is the latter, there are others, but the Hope seems to be the most popular convertible hub. I went with a Salsa 150mm hub, which is not convertible - a bit of an oversight on my part, although at this point I am not sure the carbon fork will ever go back on.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Tomorrow I will have had the Expert for a year
Ridden 3000km or so for the year, probably 2000 of those on the Fatboy.
Lots of beach, sand tracks and general blasting. Don't use it for single track.
Here is how it went. 
Original hub still going. E13 cranks still good.
3 broken rear spokes. Tried recently to convert worn tyres to tubeless. Both blew off 
the rim, both ruined.
Rear brake always gums up to the point of not working and squeals like a banshee. Don't want to upgrade, to much salty work
Overall very happy


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I've had my Expert about a year as well, I've ridden it about 1,000 miles/1600km - less than 20% of those miles are in snow (probably a lot less). I've been through two Specialized hubs (one axle, one bearings) before Specialized replaced it with an i9 hub. The brakes have been great, which really surprised me, I figured I'd be putting XTs on there by now. I set up the original Ground Control tires set up split-tube tubeless, put some Floaters on (tubeless) for the summer, then went back to the GCs again for winter (again tubeless) all without issue. I haven't had any issues with the cranks or bottom bracket. I busted the chain multiple times before swapping to a non-hollow pin chain, the original cassette and granny ring are just about done. I have a 42T to put on the cassette, but I'm waiting to swap out the drivetrain before I put that on. I've made many other changes including: Easton carbon bars, Salsa stem, Bluto, Salsa hub, 30T N/W ring up front, Reverb dropper etc, etc. Basically there's not much left of the original bike, but the changes are almost all due to personal preference, not bad parts or whatever. 

All in all, a great bike that I have enjoyed riding, I have never lost the passion for riding, but this bike has really taken it up a notch (again). I look forward to every ride.


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## Godfather053 (Jan 24, 2015)

Great long term reviews....thanks!
I am more confident that I made the right choice for my first fatty. 
I have only a few rides on mine so far but look forward to posting up next year at this time. I'm sure The big grin will still be in place too.


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

I bought a Mongoose Dolomite last year and fell in love in fat bikes in spite of the bike. Fast forward to this year I knew I wanted to upgrade and looked at Motobecane, but I kind of felt like I was waisting more money to get to what I really wanted. I wanted a Fatbike I didnt have to upgrade for a long while. So I bit the bullet and put a down payment on a XL Fatboy in Green/Black. Due in Mid-March, but he mentioned there may be delays at the port. Regardless Im excited and can't wait to own a real fatbike. Specialized could not have picked a better name. Dolo going up for sale CHEAP.


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## CrackerJim (Feb 6, 2015)

kelbo said:


> I bought a Mongoose Dolomite last year and fell in love in fat bikes in spite of the bike.


kelbo,

I hear ya. I just recently got a Mongoose Dolo ( I've been running mtb in the woods here for years). I'm liking this fat tire action as it get's through the thick grass and sugar sand way better that the mtb.

I've only seen one other fatty in town so far (another Dolo) but the lbs has a fatboy on their floor and it's been there for months. Too rich for my blood at it's current price. I'm hoping that they get tired of having it in inventory and put a get rid of it price on it. They know I'm into the fat scene as I bought an mtb crank and bb cups/bearings for the dolo. If I get lucky, they'll make me an offer I can't refuse......:thumbsup:

So, I'm following this thread to learn about the fatboy just in case lady luck smiles on me.......


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## JASESPESH (Nov 19, 2014)

Jisch said:


> You can either get a dedicated 150mm hub, or you can get a 135mm hub that is convertible via end cap replacements. Hope is the latter, there are others, but the Hope seems to be the most popular convertible hub. I went with a Salsa 150mm hub, which is not convertible - a bit of an oversight on my part, although at this point I am not sure the carbon fork will ever go back on.


Cheers for that.
so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
any 15mm total adaptors?

cheers


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

No, some hubs are convertible from QR135 to TA150, some are not.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

JASESPESH said:


> Cheers for that.
> so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
> any 15mm total adaptors?
> 
> cheers


You can buy the hub to fit your current fork, then the end caps come out and are replaced by these spacers:
Hub Spacer Kits and Components - Hauck Bicycles

hauck spacers | eBay 
You'll have to add the 7.5mm spacers for the discs, which is the biggest downside to the spacer method. If you're heavy and/or ride real hard, you might consider the regular 150mm hub. The ebay site ships worldwide. The I9 hub is best, but very expensive.
I use Google to find this stuff, and bike questions asked there often find answers here.(easier than this site's search engine). Aussie! Aussie! Oi! Oi!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.


Anyone?

Is local bike shop blowing smoke up my arse telling me that they can't order the red ones from Specialized?


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

prj71 said:


> Anyone?
> 
> Is local bike shop blowing smoke up my arse telling me that they can't order the red ones from Specialized?


They don't show up on the dealer site anymore.


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## jester6578 (Mar 15, 2010)

JASESPESH said:


> Cheers for that.
> so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
> any 15mm total adaptors?
> 
> cheers


You'd need to buy a new hub either way.

Unless you ride on 100% pristine groomed snow, I would just get a 150mm TA hub and be fine with it. I got a Bluto and kept the carbon fork/hub with the thought I'd swap it back for winter.

That's not going to happen. Ever.

Even on snow, most trails around me are multi use and the Bluto is fantastic for how uneven/bumpy the packed snow can get. (And for reference, I'm in Boston, and we've been getting SNOW)

The Bluto completely changes the bike in a great way. In all conditions that I've encountered.


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

A few I interesting notes about stem height and angle...before today's ride I decided to make my fatboy more "XC" by dropping it one spacer and flipping the stem upside down. On pavement it was nice being a little more stretched out. However, once I hit the snow (2-3 inches of very wet snow) the front end was very prone to washing out and handling was very twitchy in general. Off camber stuff was even worse than usual. I was actually getting kind of bummed out by it and was starting to think fatbikes were hype! About 2/3rds of the way home I decided to flip the stem back upwards, but left the spacers in the lower setup. I was immediately amazed at how much straighter the bike tracked and there was virtually no negative stuff happening in the front end. I was also shocked at how just flipping the stem pushed the bike over the edge handling wise. It definitely seems like fatbikes like more upright positioning. I may go back to the stock highest setting, but where it is right now feels spot on.

Had anyone else experienced this too?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cycloxer13 (Oct 27, 2014)

Rumblefish29er said:


> A few I interesting notes about stem height and angle...
> 
> Had anyone else experienced this too?


In soft snow, definitely yes, I know exactly how this goes. I often find myself trying to ride off the back of the saddle to get more traction, particularly on the uphills. However, in hardpack snow conditions, I prefer a more traditional XC position, though still fairly upright. It's all a trade-off.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.

Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.
> 
> Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet


I've been using it on mine without issue. The straps are stretchy rubber so fit well:


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Kewl. Good to know. Thanks.

Are these fenders plastic or aluminum?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm jealous of all the snow pix! We have had a super mild winter here in the PNW and my Fatboy has seen 2 days of light snow with maybe 20 miles of riding. The rest of the rides (nearly 600 miles) has pretty much been in the rain and mud. Original bb and rear hub are all working fine. The front hub is aftermarket since I switched to a Bluto.


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## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

We have the opposite problem here in NE. Too much light fluffy snow for riding. Great skiing, though.


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## oops (May 28, 2005)

prj71 said:


> Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.
> 
> Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet


no problem at all....I trimmed mine a little to fit around the lower part of the headtube to extend it a little more forward..


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## DeepVI (May 9, 2011)

With all the hub and BB issues I've read about. Has anyone gotten the "special edition" cranks?


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## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

prj71 said:


> Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.
> 
> Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet


Yup. It's awesome. They are plastic. I trimmed mine to fit my frame a bit better.










I have the rear too. It's... Less awesome haha. Good fender design, crappy clamp.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

-----


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## Oldgt (Jul 1, 2012)

DeepVI said:


> With all the hub and BB issues I've read about. Has anyone gotten the "special edition" cranks?
> View attachment 966911


That looks expensive! Oh wait, JB weld! I think I'll go with aluminum.


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## Yoter (Feb 20, 2010)




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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

Yoter said:


>


Nice picture. Where's it from?


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

I think the combo of cold air, wet snow, and disc brakes has posed a new problem for fat bike tech.....this thing gets insanely loud brake squeal. The neighbors must love my back yard track even more now....


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

Replaced mine with XT. Only squeezed when wet.


----------



## Seventh-777 (Aug 30, 2013)

I have XTs on mine - with the metal pads they squealed like hell when wet, but the organic pads are much quieter.


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## Melll (Jan 25, 2015)

I kind of like that banshee scream as I descend...


----------



## fatboy43 (May 4, 2008)

Funny video with a fatboy....

http://fat-bike.com/2015/03/fat-video-tuesday-eddie-masters-shreds-a-fatboy/


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

I get some squeal when its cold out - but if I put some medium to light pressure on the brakes for a few seconds a few times it puts enough heat in the rotors/pads and the squeal goes away. P.S. great video


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## EXW (May 11, 2013)

I picked up a Fat Boy SE over the weekend and I can't believe how much fun it is. it's a big change from my full suspension rig and I'm really enjoying the different riding style even with only two rides on it. 

Quick question on tubes and tires that I haven't been able to find a definitive answer on. I was told that I can't convert the Ground Control Sport tires to tubeless because they are 60 TPI. Does anyone know if that is true?

Also, if I stay with tubes, it looks like I can use a 2.7" or 3.0" tube instead of a fat specific one. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks


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## Jisch (Jan 12, 2004)

I have converted the 120TPI GCs to tubeless, I can't imagine why you couldn't convert the 60 TPI tires, I have converted other 60 TPI tires before. I believe those have a steel bead, so it's probably less supple than the kevlar bead on the 120TPI tires, but I'm sure a split tube set up would work. The less supple bead may make tape tubeless a bit more difficult, but those rims are really good for tubeless, they have a really good ridge to get the bead to seat against. You can use 3.0 tubes in there for sure - my experience (which is not shared by everyone) is that it's pretty easy to pinch flat those thin tubes.


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

I got some Specialized tubes - I _think_ they are 2.7 - 3.0. Probably saved a pound total. They weren't cheap at around $12 each if I recall - but the surly ones were $20 each. for tubes! Probably should have just ordered some Q tubes online...? As for tubeless - I debated for a while - I know of people who've had success and people who haven't, or it was just too much of a pain overall. So I concluded that I'd stick with tubes. I pretty much only ride this bike on snow covered singletrack - so flats are unlikely, even at 6 psi.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I've been running the Specialized 2.3-3.0 x 26" tubes fr the last 500mi and they have worked fine. I'd probably switch to 24" tubes the next time though as they wont balloon up as much when swapping tires.


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## EXW (May 11, 2013)

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. i couldn't believe the price on those Surly's either which is why I'm looking at the 2.7".


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

EXW said:


> Thanks, I appreciate the advice. i couldn't believe the price on those Surly's either which is why I'm looking at the 2.7".


FWIW, here is the SKU for the tube you are looking for.


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## EXW (May 11, 2013)

cardnation said:


> FWIW, here is the SKU for the tube you are looking for.


Thanks!


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## j35u5fr34k (Aug 20, 2008)

Nm....


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## kelbo (May 13, 2014)

*Goodbye Dolo, Hello Fatboy*

I picked my SE up before I had to go to work today. I was able to get about a ten second ride in. Very excited to get out and hit the trail Monday. Thinking I might build a fat trike out of the old Dolomite In my spare time.










Will be bluto'd eventually.


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Anyone know the weights of each fatboy? Wondering how heavy the se is compared to the fatboy and the expert?


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## bozofs (Aug 20, 2010)

nice yota!


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

solarplex said:


> Anyone know the weights of each fatboy? Wondering how heavy the se is compared to the fatboy and the expert?


My shop weighed both the Fatboy and Fatboy SE, I don't recall the exact numbers but the SE was around a pound heavier, maybe a couple ounces under a pound.

The carbon fork looks to provide most of that savings.


----------



## dcubed (Jun 30, 2010)

What are you Fatboy riders using for fenders? I am looking for lightweight off-road duty fenders to keep crud off me and, as much as I can, off my drivetrain and lower headset.


----------



## JASESPESH (Nov 19, 2014)

Mucky Nutz | Mountain Bikes | Road Bikes | XC | DH | UK Made Parts & Accessories


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## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

24" tubes will work ok? probably lighter too.


Paochow said:


> I've been running the Specialized 2.3-3.0 x 26" tubes fr the last 500mi and they have worked fine. I'd probably switch to 24" tubes the next time though as they wont balloon up as much when swapping tires.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

tawaitai said:


> 24" tubes will work ok? probably lighter too.


Yup- they work great


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Paochow said:


> I've been running the Specialized 2.3-3.0 x 26" tubes fr the last 500mi and they have worked fine. I'd probably switch to 24" tubes the next time though as they wont balloon up as much when swapping tires.


Are the specialized tubes lighter than Surly Ultra Light tubes?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

Yes- the 26"x2.3-3.0 are approximately 270-275gr and the 24"x2.3-3.0 are 235-240gr. The super light q-tubes are even lighter but may not be as reliable when inflated to 4.6-4.8"


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The Surley ultra light tubes are 310g so a little savings it looks like by using the Specialized 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

I tried the Qtube SL 26" and was not impressed. I had 2 that failed upon initial install and two on the trail via pinch flat. The regular Qtube 24" weigh the same (250 g) and seem to fit better. So far so good after a couple of months. I still have a couple of SLs left, but I don't put a new one in my pack without airing it up first. SLs are too dodgy for me.


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

After experimenting with Pegasus tape I think I've finally got my "recipe" down with how to get reliable tubeless, so I'm setting up my front to match (its TL, just was my first crap attempt that happened to hold) and hopefully won't get rained out tomorrow!

Completely changes the bike for the better.


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## sdsyver (May 8, 2013)

Use the 24" Qtube and use it for split tube tubeless set up. Takes no time and works great. Did both mine in about 30min start to finish.


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

sdsyver said:


> Use the 24" Qtube and use it for split tube tubeless set up. Takes no time and works great. Did both mine in about 30min start to finish.


Thats my backup plan but honestly the pegasus tape is pretty dang easy, and you don't have to fiddle with the tube.

The tape is so wide you *only* have to worry about doing the overlap/seam right. It's basically a light split tube that stays on the rim when you pull the tire off (which is important to me) and requires no trimming.

I've found that it seems bulletproof if you just put an extra "patch" over the seam and rub it down to perfection. Takes about 10-30 minutes as well.


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## wrc2006 (Nov 2, 2007)

Slow_Thyroid_Bike said:


> Thats my backup plan but honestly the pegasus tape is pretty dang easy, and you don't have to fiddle with the tube.
> 
> The tape is so wide you *only* have to worry about doing the overlap/seam right. It's basically a light split tube that stays on the rim when you pull the tire off (which is important to me) and requires no trimming.
> 
> I've found that it seems bulletproof if you just put an extra "patch" over the seam and rub it down to perfection. Takes about 10-30 minutes as well.


Sorry for being too lazy to go through the thread again, but which Pegasus tape are you using? Do you have an item number from their site?


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

wrc2006 said:


> Sorry for being too lazy to go through the thread again, but which Pegasus tape are you using? Do you have an item number from their site?


Leading Edge Tape, 100', 10 or 11 mil IIRC, black. It's 4" wide.

Edit: the 4" here 
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3323

Whats funny is if you check the reviews it's 3/4 fatbike reviews and one for what it's actually made for.


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## wrc2006 (Nov 2, 2007)

Awesome! Thank you!


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## Slow_Thyroid_Bike (May 28, 2015)

My wrapping technique, not sure if this is typical, is to kind of set the first couple inches in, then pull "tangent" to the rim (holding the roll in one hand, the rim in the other) while wrapping and kind of strech the tape to where it tacos itself a little and use my index/thumbs on the sides of the rims as guides to set the slightly tacod tape down into the rim. I don't stress on contact being perfect for the center - i focus on the parts around where the bead is. I rub those grooves down as I go, and repeat.

Unroll 6-10" 
Stretch/Taco/Work Tape Down
Guide down with fingers as "goal posts" on rim edge
Work the bead corners

then when done just cut another 6-9" or so and work it down over the seam PERFECTLY (with ideally a perfect seam) and do your valve stem. I've never had a hint of an issue with stans valves when tightened down, and all I do is stab a "plus sign" in the hole with some sharp scissors that I use to spatchcock chickens for my smoker. Then just stick the valve in and tighten the ring down with needle nose pliers.

I run 4-5oz of Orange Seal in each tire.


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## wrc2006 (Nov 2, 2007)

Once again, thanks! I've read similar instructions and tried tape tubeless with a vinyl type tape I had, but it was too thin and tore on the rim cut-outs. 
Can't believe how much pegasus charges for ground shipping. I'll get my buddies to pitch in a few beers for some of the tape. 100' should set us all up...


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Hello!

Let me introduce my new bike. I made a view upgrades to personalize my bike.

1. Bluto
2. XT Brakes
3. Tubeless (Ghetto)
4. 1x11 Shimano with Raceface 30T

With this changes the bike is done! The weight is 15kg exactly.


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## zenegroen (Aug 12, 2015)

Hello,

This is my Fatboy! Glad with my upgrades:

1. Bluto
2. XT 1x11 Shimano with Raceface 30T
3. XT Brakes
4. Ghetto Tubeless.

The weight is 15kg with pedals.


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

Nice! out of interest what tubes did you use to go Ghetto?


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## tawaitai (Mar 25, 2011)

Seventh 777 FWIW I'm 5'10, 175lbs and the medium fits me perfectly. Everyone's different though, so definitely take both sizes for a spin if you can!

Quote:
>Walked into The Bike Shop Honolulu, Hi ( I live on the neighbor-island Kauai) No
Fat-Boys in stock. I was looking at a size medium possibly? at 6'1, 195lbs. Happy i
got to see and test-fit Large size in person and not guess on pics on the web, the Medium would definitely be TOO small.
$1598.00> Ouchhh. asked LBS if there's some sort of trade-in value for upgrade on
parts-spec. upgrade= NO! I may have to shop a different LBS.


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## Cape Codder (Jan 16, 2014)

FatBoy Pro: Starting to get a squeaking sound and rubbing sound from the back wheel. 
Notice it most with tire lifted off ground and manually spin wheel. (not crank, just wheel moving)
No obvious reason for either noise. Is this a notorious hub issue? Or axle or??


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## NZPeterG (Mar 31, 2008)

Hi
Take it to your LBS


Kiwi Pete from the road


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## Crash_N_Carry (Jul 6, 2015)

Cape Codder said:


> FatBoy Pro: Starting to get a squeaking sound and rubbing sound from the back wheel.
> Notice it most with tire lifted off ground and manually spin wheel. (not crank, just wheel moving)
> No obvious reason for either noise. Is this a notorious hub issue? Or axle or??


Check the dust cap on the rear hub (non-drive side). I got some weird creaking noises one day and it turned out all it was was the dust cap and worked itself loose.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Need some help understanding the stock se headset, I just picked up an ordered se rolling chassis with lbs upgrading cranks to turbine cinch. The crown race is what to looks to be thick plastic and makes a huge gap between the head tube and fork. I also noticed that I may be missing a rubber gasket for the top of the headset as there is a slight gap there too. Any help will be appreciated.

Fatboy SE
RF Cinch BB
RF Turbine Cinch 170
WT 28t CR
SRAM 1070 11-36
KMC Eco Proteq
Vault Brendogs
XO 2.1 DR med
XO 10spd RS
XT M8000 180/160
RF Atlas stem/bars
Ergon gs1L

Looking forward to getting this boy together.


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

can you get a pic of the problem areas?


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

Has anyone converted their fatboy to a sram gxp crank and if so what did you use or do for the BB, i have googled and as yet not found anything that is designed for 100mm PF30 application. There is certainly adapters/PF cups for 68/73mm frames that could be used including 46mm pf to bsa. Reasons for changing, so over replacing bb30 bearings and the creaks and noise that belongs to them. At the moment thinking about gluing the sram pf30 to bsa cups in and using the gxp 100mm bb. Have looked at problem solvers, first components and many others but would love a heads up if someone knows something specific or has done it. Might just end up selling it and buying a Fuse which also has the same shite but with a normal bb width that has plenty of options to play with! Cheers


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)




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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

I went with sram X9 and sram black box BB


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

gearless said:


> can you get a pic of the problem areas?
















Here are pics, I can take some with it off if needed in a little bit. thanks


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## cardnation (Jul 2, 2014)

gearless said:


> I went with sram X9 and sram black box BB


Do you have any more info you can provide?

Is that an X9 100mm crank like shown here?

Is the BB threaded?


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## aussieinswitzerland (Aug 5, 2007)

gearless said:


> View attachment 1043348


Thanks gearless, so just the sram pf30-bsa cups and the 100mm fatbike gxp bb, did you glue the cups in or just press in with grease or copper paste? Cheers


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

Finally got out for a ride with my tubeless setup (gorilla tape and tubeless Slime, both from Walmart!). At first I didn't notice much in terms of weight savings, but once I got to the first steep climb it felt like the acceleration was better. Also, even at the same pressure as before, the tires seemed to grip better and be more supple. I actually decided to do it to cut down on the number of flats but the performance is great. Highly recommend it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I converted mine using Fatty Strippers and it works really well. Been on 4 rides and flawless. I am having one issue (maybe common) with the discs howling like crazy. The front is especially bad. It is driving me nuts, and hikers are probably a bit freaked out when I come upon them and brake. Great bike overall...glad they did not make it slacker. I can see the front washing out easier. The tires are decent but I may try a Bud/Dunderbeist combo next season.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

SJEVO said:


> Need some help understanding the stock se headset, I just picked up an ordered se rolling chassis with lbs upgrading cranks to turbine cinch. The crown race is what to looks to be thick plastic and makes a huge gap between the head tube and fork. I also noticed that I may be missing a rubber gasket for the top of the headset as there is a slight gap there too. Any help will be appreciated.
> 
> Fatboy SE
> RF Cinch BB
> ...


"Still no answer on this, lbs said some have more gap & headset came on bike direct from specialized. Maybe wrong at the factory? I'm assuming the crown race for an aluminum fork would be similar to a suspension fork, which the one on this is not. This may push me over the edge to a carbon fork."

Got a answer on this, stopped by lbs today since I was in the area, to order a cane creek headset and look at the hellga they said looked the same way. It did but the med blue SE next to it did not, so lbs got on the phone with spec to find out yeap some were sent out with an incorrect crown race. It will do no harm just leaves a generous gap. Lbs had them send them replacements and gave me one out of the stock pile.


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## Mumonkan (Jun 10, 2015)

just picked up my carbon comp saturday, this thing RIPS!










it came with 4.0 GC's

weight with candy 1 pedals and garmin/kedge/gopro attached mechanical scale @ LBS says 28.75, digital scale at buddies house says 29.3

it feels closer to 25lbs and it really shines bombing downhill. it climbs like a billygoat and i have to make sure to shift more weight forward on crazy steep hills to keep from wheelieing up the whole thing

GCs are dreadful on the road but ive yet to find the edge of traction with them on the trail

eventually itl get more carbon treatment, perhaps a 120mm bluto, and B+ wheels for bikepacking. right now im just loving life, so happy to be in the fatbike club


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

Just ordered a 45NRTH Flowbeist for my Fatboy. I'm so over this Ground Control washing out!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Mumonkan said:


> just picked up my carbon comp saturday, this thing RIPS!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thing is soo sweet, pictures don't do it justice, I drool over the one at lbs everytime I'm in there. I'm a little surprised by the weight, figured it be a touch lighter.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

Mumonkan said:


> just picked up my carbon comp saturday, this thing RIPS!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Congrats, nice! Look no further than the toobs, if you want to knock off some weight for cheap. The Spesh toobs are ~520g each, if they are the same ones that came on my bike. 24" Q toobs, ghetto tubeless, or fattystrippers are good options. The fattystrippers set up real easy on the Spesh rims.


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## Mumonkan (Jun 10, 2015)

SJEVO said:


> Thing is soo sweet, pictures don't do it justice, I drool over the one at lbs everytime I'm in there. I'm a little surprised by the weight, figured it be a touch lighter.


if i take off the pedals and electronics and its ~27 and change. it feels and rides like a lighter bike, after i change stuff out i expect it to be ~23. i think the S-works is <24 out of the box



Chinman said:


> Congrats, nice! Look no further than the toobs, if you want to knock off some weight for cheap. The Spesh toobs are ~520g each, if they are the same ones that came on my bike. 24" Q toobs, ghetto tubeless, or fattystrippers are good options. The fattystrippers set up real easy on the Spesh rims.


im considering the strippers but id prefer a tape solution. i saw a post somewhere on here about wide tape that was the same material as stans but i cant find it now. cant wait to get the tubes out!


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Patiently waiting on UPS to delivery the other parts I need


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## shamrok (Aug 2, 2012)

just picked up '16 comp - will get on her this weekend

glad I wore underwear to the bike shop today - she is beautiful


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

_just picked up '16 comp - will get on her this weekend

glad I wore underwear to the bike shop today - she is beautiful_

Nice! I wanted the same bike but had too many parts awaiting a build to justify. I'm curious to know what the inside of the fork colors are, as I'm looking to switch to a carbon fork. I hope to have time to work on mine tomorrow between shoveling.


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## senator (May 8, 2006)

Got my Comp little over a week ago, already 5 rides in and ready for the snow tomorrow in NY...

Weighed in at 31.59 lbs fully stock with my xtr pedals:


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## shamrok (Aug 2, 2012)

SJEVO said:


> _just picked up '16 comp - will get on her this weekend
> 
> glad I wore underwear to the bike shop today - she is beautiful_
> 
> Nice! I wanted the same bike but had too many parts awaiting a build to justify. I'm curious to know what the inside of the fork colors are, as I'm looking to switch to a carbon fork. I hope to have time to work on mine tomorrow between shoveling.


the bike is basically murdered out sans the fatboy logo and a streak of white on the top tube - think the carbon comp but the chisel logo is black as well


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

shamrok said:


> the bike is basically murdered out sans the fatboy logo and a streak of white on the top tube - think the carbon comp but the chisel logo is black as well


Thanks for the info, if you go bluto, let me know cuz thats the fork I need. I hope to be posting pics of mine together later today.


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## arn907 (May 22, 2014)

swapped out tubes and switched to the 4.6's right away, have a dropped on order and trying to figure out what platforms(currently have vp harriers) carbon bars with a little rise in the near future and maybe a bluto come summer time.

color looks better in person. awesome bike, still getting used to no suspension but the bike rips.


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

arn907 said:


> swapped out tubes and switched to the 4.6's right away, have a dropped on order and trying to figure out what platforms(currently have vp harriers) carbon bars with a little rise in the near future and maybe a bluto come summer time.
> 
> color looks better in person. awesome bike, still getting used to no suspension but the bike rips.
> 
> ...


Nice bike!

Give this a go and you can have reusable tubeless:


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## Meriwether74 (Jan 23, 2016)

Seen multiple posts on issues with tekro brakes; sharing this in case someone else has experienced. I had several headaches with brakes on '15 fatboy. Rear squealed badly, and it resonated with the frame under certain conditions, creating an awful honking sound. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts to re-bed, I switched to shimano organic pads and replaced stock rotor with magura sl. That finally fixed it. Still get some squealing when wet, but not unlike other brakes. 

On the front, I had buzzing/rubbing of the rotor on the pad as the fork and wheel flexed under certain loads. Drove me crazy trying to adjust. Took it to two shops to fix and both unsuccessful. The message from both was that it was unavoidable given the tight clearances. On a whim, I tried downsizing the rotor (from 180 to 160) -- just remove the spacer piece between the caliper and fork -- and the problem vanished. Blissful silence. I'm light (145 lbs) and ride in the Midwest, so no issue with smaller rotor; of course this may not work for everyone.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Was able to get most of build done yesterday...
Fatboy SE
RF Cinch BB
RF Turbine Cinch 170
WT 28t CR
SRAM 1070 11-36
KMC Eco Proteq
Vault Brendogs
XO 2.1 RD med
XO 10spd RS
XT M8000 180/160
Haven 55 stem
EC90 bars
Ergon gs1L

Future...
Rack
seatpost
binder


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## Andrea Dessimoni (Nov 8, 2015)

Italy trail


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## shamrok (Aug 2, 2012)

SJEVO said:


> Was able to get most of build done yesterday...
> Fatboy SE
> RF Cinch BB
> RF Turbine Cinch 170
> ...


how's the 11-36 with that in climbing/technical climbing? the 11-40 seems a little weird so far with me - seems like i am generally in the 18t a majority of the time


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Don't know yet, just finished everything today. I have 34T pushing 11-40 on a stumpy ht and barely used the lower gear cogs. It's considerably lighter, so my math told me that this should work for me.


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## Paco taco (Jan 26, 2016)

SJEVO said:


> Don't know yet, just finished everything today. I have 34T pushing 11-40 on a stumpy ht and barely used the lower gear cogs. It's considerably lighter, so my math told me that this should work for me.
> View attachment 1045936
> View attachment 1045937


That thing look awesome!


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

I've really been enjoying my fatboy. My first fat bike. I think the only thing I want to change is put a 100mm air shaft in the bluto.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Raleighguy29 said:


> I've really been enjoying my fatboy. My first fat bike. I think the only thing I want to change is put a 100mm air shaft in the bluto.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Love me some Brown County! More than worth the 6 hour drive from here.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

Flash said:


> Love me some Brown County! More than worth the 6 hour drive from here.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I live a 1 hr north of it so I ride there a lot!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Paco taco said:


> That thing look awesome!


Thanks, here are some pics taken before the 1st ride today.

























Placed an order today for a cane creek 40 headset, my ocd won't allow the gap or lack of upper seal on the stock fsa. Also a axiom fatliner rear rack was ordered and I've been looking into dropper seat posts.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Which headset fits the Fatboy (15 expert/ carbon fork)?
Does any one know the spec of the lower 1.5" bearing. 

Is it a 45deg 45deg?
Whats the inner and outer Dimensions?
If any one has a link to one that is the right spec please?

I have a frame and fork. Just have the crown race on the fork.
What top headset would work?

Any info appreciated.
Thanks.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Headset Fit Finder | Cane Creek Cycling Components


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Thanks pri71.👍


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Is42/52 tapered


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## Mumonkan (Jun 10, 2015)

this makes me a bit sad that i cant put the angleset in there


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Well i'm still stuck on a lower bearing to fit the Carbon fork on my fatboy.
The crown race is bonded to the fork.

I have a lower bearing from my trek which fits in every way except it is 36x45 not 45x45.
This bearing is OD around 52 Internal Diameter greater than 40 (40.5-40.8)? 

got a lower bearing that was 52/40 and it does not fit on the crown race. The bearing from the trek does.
So I need a 52/40+ but they don't seam to exist?
If any one can point me to a bearing that fits or what I should be looking for i'd appreciate it.
Thanks.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

yamaha46 said:


> Well i'm still stuck on a lower bearing to fit the Carbon fork on my fatboy.
> The crown race is bonded to the fork.
> 
> I have a lower bearing from my trek which fits in every way except it is 36x45 not 45x45.
> ...


Is this a chisel fork? I thought all the fatboys had the same headset, the cc headset I just installed had no issues w/ se fork, I used the same crown race as I wanted to save the cc one for a bluto in the future.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Your SE is an alloy fork right?

I guess mine is the chisel carbon fork.
The crown race is non replacable and bonded to the carbon fork. The ID40 bearings do not fit on it.


----------



## Pauldotcom (Aug 15, 2010)

I just reduced a Bluto for my buddy. It was about $60 bucks for parts and took about 30 minutes. Pretty easy going job.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Yea, if yours has 135qr I was under the assumption all was the same. I'm not sure about the 150ta fork on the carbon models. From my research the 150ta was a different length and had a carbon crown race where the 135qr had a bonded aluminum crown race.



yamaha46 said:


> Your SE is an alloy fork right?
> 
> I guess mine is the chisel carbon fork.
> The crown race is non replacable and bonded to the carbon fork. The ID40 bearings do not fit on it.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Mines the 2015 Alloy expert model with a full carbon fork, bonded alloy crown race.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

yamaha46 said:


> Mines the 2015 Alloy expert model with a full carbon fork, bonded alloy crown race.


Wish I could help more, specs show the same headset for all models.


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## yamaha46 (Jul 17, 2009)

Ok I emailed a Specialized store about the lower bearing.
They tell me I need this part:

Specialized Tarmac SL2 1.5" Lower Intergrated Headset Bearing,52 X 40 X 7MM Thick ACB 45X45
The part No is S2092000001

The SL2 does have a bonded crown race also.
I have ordered it so will see if it is correct.


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## FreddyBoy (Feb 11, 2016)

I have a Large Fatboy Se and i want to upgrade for to a carbon fork. I can get one from a medium size bike at low price and i was wondering if the 15mm difference is gonna be ok. The Medium have 120mm headtube lengt and large is 135 mm


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

FreddyBoy said:


> I have a Large Fatboy Se and i want to upgrade for to a carbon fork. I can get one from a medium size bike at low price and i was wondering if the 15mm difference is gonna be ok. The Medium have 120mm headtube lengt and large is 135 mm


http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/specialized-fact-carbon-fork-good-989216-2.html#post12468263


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Twimby said:


> Tomorrow I will have had the Expert for a year
> Ridden 3000km or so for the year, probably 2000 of those on the Fatboy.
> Lots of beach, sand tracks and general blasting. Don't use it for single track.
> Here is how it went.
> ...


2 Year Report
Had the Expert two years today, being one of the first in West Oz
Still on the original hub. I changed the rear brake to an SLX after breaking more spokes. I figured the wheel was flexing, as I was always applying so much pressure, with the faulty brake. Problem solved
Just had to change the bottom bracket, still using the E13 crank
Just changed the freehub body and put a new cassette on
Recently went split tube tubeless, with the second set of tyres, after the first failed attempt.
Probably has 4,000km or so worth of use now. 
Lots of beach and sand work, but I don't use it on single track very often
I also like using it just to cruise around on

Now that I have a Fatty6 Stump Jumper the Fatboy will see little track work


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

Need a bit of help. I have the Samoa crank on my Fatboy. Will this Race Face fit and what will the advantages be? Less weight? Better BB? Thanks

RaceFace Ride fat bike crankset (no bottom bracket)
This is a new takeoff crankset. designed for 190 and 197 rear spacing with 100mm bottom bracket fat bikes.
175mm crank arms

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

twentyniner29 said:


> Need a bit of help. I have the Samoa crank on my Fatboy. Will this Race Face fit and what will the advantages be? Less weight? Better BB? Thanks
> 
> RaceFace Ride fat bike crankset (no bottom bracket)
> This is a new takeoff crankset. designed for 190 and 197 rear spacing with 100mm bottom bracket fat bikes.
> ...


You can use the 190 but it will be wider and require spacers. Most are using the 170/177mm crank:

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/fyi-specialized-uses-30-x-170-raceface-cranks-fatboy-941014.html

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/specialized-fatboy-pro-bottom-bracket-939866.html


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## 03'Darin (Mar 10, 2011)

FreddyBoy said:


> I have a Large Fatboy Se and i want to upgrade for to a carbon fork. I can get one from a medium size bike at low price and i was wondering if the 15mm difference is gonna be ok. The Medium have 120mm headtube lengt and large is 135 mm


I have the carbon fork off of my large Fatboy that I'd sell. It's the blue accent. Let me know if you're interested


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## twentyniner29 (Dec 2, 2014)

Paochow said:


> You can use the 190 but it will be wider and require spacers. Most are using the 170/177mm crank:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/fyi-specialized-uses-30-x-170-raceface-cranks-fatboy-941014.html
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/specialized-fatboy-pro-bottom-bracket-939866.html


Thanks! I thought I remembered reading that but couldn't find it.

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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I put a e13 9-44T cassette on my Fatboy today. Shifts as well or better than my X1 cassette, but with similar range to the stock 2X10. It is very light, time will tell how durable it is, but so far I've been pleased with e13 components.


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## goobernaculum (May 26, 2014)

I have a 2016 Fatboy Trail and was thinking about getting a set of wheels for the summer. Can you guys give some insight and/or thoughts on what I should do? I figured a set of 29+ or 27.5+ would be fun, but frankly don't know much about different wheels and how those two different sizes would work on this bike. I'm up to any options you guys can suggest.

thanks much


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## Cromoth (Feb 14, 2016)

Fatboy on Special - get 'em before they're gone!
Specials | Fatboy

wish it was April 1


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

What are the skinniest tires you guys have put on the fatboy rims? Any recommendations for commuting and paved usage? I have seen some pics of Maxxis Hookworm 2.5s on other bikes I'm not sure how those would fit 90mm rims.


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## one4teen (Jul 13, 2010)

I'll toss in my 2 cents.

For last summer, I was rolling on Maxxis Mammoths setup Tubeless on the stock rims. They are 4" and have much less rolling resistance than the stock ground control tires.

I would not be going any smaller than that as it really does drop your bottom bracket and increases pedal strike.

I plan on doing the same thing this year.

If I was commuting, I'd get a different bike, personally.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Rumblefish29er said:


> What are the skinniest tires you guys have put on the fatboy rims? Any recommendations for commuting and paved usage? I have seen some pics of Maxxis Hookworm 2.5s on other bikes I'm not sure how those would fit 90mm rims.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've done the hookworms on 65mm large marge rims, but would not use them on a rim wider than that.

I'd say about the skinniest tire you could use on a 90mm rim would be 3.5" - but like one4teen said, that's going to bring the BB down a lot.

If you really want to go skinny for commuting, you have options - you can do 650b+, 29, or 29+

Otherwise, if you are going to stay fat, look at the Surly Knard, Black Floyd, and the Vee Tire Vee8


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## gravitylover (Sep 1, 2009)

How do you pop the rear axle out? I'd like to replace the bearings after 2+ years of hard use but couldn't get the axle out to do it. fyi I have one from the first production run in '13.


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## shift96 (Feb 2, 2007)

Can someone confirm the rear axle size on a 16 Fatboy SE? Is it a 190x10? thanks


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## gearless (Jan 19, 2004)

yes, 190 quick release!


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## shift96 (Feb 2, 2007)

Anyone make a 190x10 bolt thru hub?


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

shift96 said:


> Anyone make a 190x10 bolt thru hub?


You can convert the Hope Fatsnos to 190x10 thru


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## Bonzodog690 (Jan 30, 2016)

Here's my 2016 SE, my first Fatbike and it's been a revelation for me, I'm a large middle aged man and have always had trouble with wheels and seatposts. So far so good with this.

It's used for semi urban commuting and beach cruising, hence the tyres.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Bonzodog690 said:


> Here's my 2016 SE, my first Fatbike and it's been a revelation for me, I'm a large middle aged man and have always had trouble with wheels and seatposts. So far so good with this.
> 
> It's used for semi urban commuting and beach cruising, hence the tyres.
> 
> View attachment 1075866


Lovin the ol' hotrod look with the white walls.


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## illMATTic (Apr 9, 2015)

I purchased this frame from a local dealer and built this one up. I still need to get a few things cleaned up like the hoses and what not. I cant wait to get it on the trail.


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## oo.viper.oo (Jun 15, 2016)

*Size for 6'3 guy*

Guys, any doubts L is too small for 6'3" height? Sorry to bother you, sure it's best to try, but no shops around have the Fatboy in stock and I'll basically have to drive 60 miles in one direction to try the L and 60 miles in opposite direction to try the XL.

I am riding Camber 29" in XL and I'm happy with it, it's comfy and roomy and I like it that way. But I suppose Fatboy would work better in a bit tighter / more sporty geometry for all those escapes from slide-crashes... What I do not know is if Fatboy's geometry already reflects that or not.

Before Camber, I was riding Scott Strike with G-Zero geometry, size L and it was tighter but it was working fine for me. And from what I've heard, Scotts are generally smaller than average. So I don't know, should I drive to test the XL first, or the L?

Thx!


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## Bonzodog690 (Jan 30, 2016)

SJEVO said:


> Lovin the ol' hotrod look with the white walls.


Cheers, I wasn't sure if I'd like them (looks wise), however they were the cheapest and easiest to order in the UK, I tried them at 20 PSI and the self steering was horrible, so tried them at 30 PSI and they're perfect. Spot on for tarmac.



oo.viper.oo said:


> So I don't know, should I drive to test the XL first, or the L?
> 
> Thx!


I'm 6"1' and was unsure, so I got the XL and it's spot on for me, not much (none) stand over space, as in my knackers rest on the top tube. So I'd suggest try the XL first.


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## Rumblefish29er (Oct 6, 2012)

oo.viper.oo said:


> Guys, any doubts L is too small for 6'3" height? Sorry to bother you, sure it's best to try, but no shops around have the Fatboy in stock and I'll basically have to drive 60 miles in one direction to try the L and 60 miles in opposite direction to try the XL.
> 
> I am riding Camber 29" in XL and I'm happy with it, it's comfy and roomy and I like it that way. But I suppose Fatboy would work better in a bit tighter / more sporty geometry for all those escapes from slide-crashes... What I do not know is if Fatboy's geometry already reflects that or not.
> 
> ...


Assuming your inseam is something more the 34, I'd probably go with an XL.

I'm your height (35" inseam) and ride a large. The sizing is borderline. I'd probably fit an XL better out of the box. That said I've ridden mine for 2 years and have gotten used to it. I tried a slightly longer stem but the handling in snow and sand was not as good (too much weight forward maybe?).

The geo is based on the Crave which is more stretched out and XC than a camber, so you may find the L to feel a little more like an XL all mountain frame.

Pay attention to standover height and inseam. It's the one thing you can't tweak at all.


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## Stupendous Man (Jan 12, 2004)

At 6-3, Id definitely get the XL. I am 6-1 and have a L, and I had to put a longer stem on it


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## Paochow (Jul 23, 2014)

I'm 6'2" and ride the alloy framed Fatboy in Large, fits great and I like having the extra stand over in the snow. I tried an Carbon Fatboy in Large though and would definitely go with an XL if I went with a carbon frame.


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## oo.viper.oo (Jun 15, 2016)

This is some excellent feedback, thank you guys!

Rumblefish29 made a very valid point with inseam. I measured my again and it's 32". So I guess I'm somewhat short legs, long torso with my 6'3" height. It's something little less than 32 without shoes, so it may be a bit over 32 with shoes. I checked the geometry specs and 32" is exactly the standover height of the L frame, while XL has stand-over height of 33" and I don't think I'd like it.

Heading to test the L first. Thanks again!


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## bonesetter2004 (May 27, 2007)

I'm 6'3" and ride a large

Lay back post, riser bars, short stem = weight back and down = good thing for a rigid bike


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## oo.viper.oo (Jun 15, 2016)

bonesetter2004 said:


> Lay back post, riser bars, short stem = weight back and down = good thing for a rigid bike


Exactly my thoughts :thumbsup:


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## evad nosam (Jun 11, 2016)

Yee haw! Just cracked the android code too post up on this forum!

I'm way the heck up here by Lake Superior in a town called Marquette. Home of one of the first Snow Bike Routes (trail system) in the U.S.

And I love me some Fatboy! 

I aquired my Fb after literally snapping my Moonlander in half..

Ive found the Fb (I have a green one) to be an ideal trail machine for our U.P. trails both summer and winter, and stashed the rest of the quiver for almost two years.

Great machine!!


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## Cromoth (Feb 14, 2016)

2015 Fatboy w/carbon forks. Getting a creaking noise from BB area. LBS says not warranty; wear item. $30 to lube, adjust or buy replacement. What's a good upgrade? Didn't ride wet. Got decades of use from old MTB BB but this is a different animal of course.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

Cromoth said:


> 2015 Fatboy w/carbon forks. Getting a creaking noise from BB area. LBS says not warranty; wear item. $30 to lube, adjust or buy replacement. What's a good upgrade? Didn't ride wet. Got decades of use from old MTB BB but this is a different animal of course.


If you have the Samox crank and BB, mine lasted about a year. I replaced it with a Wheels Mfg one: 
PF30 Fat Bike Angular Contact BB (Black)

It's not cheap, but will be a lot easier to service. I also purchased 2x each of their 10, 5, 2.5, and 1.8 mm PF30 spacers to get everything to fit properly. I tried to re-use the Samox one, but could not get the right bearing pre-load. You may have to play with which spacers to use. I would also recommend some spare wave springs if you don't have any. My wave spring was toast when I removed the crank the first time.


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## jcaino (May 26, 2007)

Cromoth said:


> 2015 Fatboy w/carbon forks. Getting a creaking noise from BB area. LBS says not warranty; wear item. $30 to lube, adjust or buy replacement. What's a good upgrade? Didn't ride wet. Got decades of use from old MTB BB but this is a different animal of course.


Had similar issue, replaced BB, was good for a while, but returned. The eventually warrantied the cranks as well for RF Turbine (cinch), and it was good for a while, and returned. The replaced the BB with the RaceFace BB and it seems to have resolved the issue.

My LBS has reported that the RF BB has resolved the issue in nearly all cases. I did have to pay for the BB, but didnt have to pay for the cranks (or the hope hub and wheel rebuild) so I'm pretty OK with that.


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## JumpinStumps (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi all, took my Fatboy out for a great beach ride last week. Great adventure at 1' elevation 






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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

So I was just walking around my LBS and they had a E Fatboy now. I said what the heck and took it for a spin, it was actually pretty fun, I could only imagine riding in 5 inches of snow with it. price was 5000


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## Schvizen (Aug 31, 2014)

Hello,

I'd like to put a bluto on my 2017 medium sized aluminum fatboy (new frame design). Does anyone know if the fork will clear the downtube? The frame looks to have mounts for a frame bumper/stop like the carbon fatboy frames, but my LBS says there isn't one available to purchase, and the bumper for the carbon frame doesn't fit my bike. Please offer any insight to this as I don't want to buy a fork that could potentially damage my frame. Thanks in advance.


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

Schvizen said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'd like to put a bluto on my 2017 medium sized aluminum fatboy (new frame design). Does anyone know if the fork will clear the downtube? The frame looks to have mounts for a frame bumper/stop like the carbon fatboy frames, but my LBS says there isn't one available to purchase, and the bumper for the carbon frame doesn't fit my bike. Please offer any insight to this as I don't want to buy a fork that could potentially damage my frame. Thanks in advance.


May not exist, I can tell you with 100% certainty that the bumper from the carbon frame doesn't fit as well as the new epic ht. I don't have a camber one to try for reference. I'd double check that the dealer actually talked to the warranty dept.


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## Schvizen (Aug 31, 2014)

MichaelHumpal said:


> May not exist, I can tell you with 100% certainty that the bumper from the carbon frame doesn't fit as well as the new epic ht. I don't have a camber one to try for reference. I'd double check that the dealer actually talked to the warranty dept.


That's a good point, I'll check for other bikes in the Specialized portfolio that use a bumper. Makes sense that they would try to share a simple part like that rather than design/manufacture a unique part just for the aluminum Fatboy. I'll also double check with another LBS to see if their answer correlates with the first. Thanks for the ideas!


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## lrodriguezvodak (Jan 5, 2017)

I just bought a new Specialized Fatboy SE and the rear has a bolt-on axle. Everywhere I look it states that it comes with a quick release axle. Does anyone know if this is correct? Is there an easy way to convert? I dont want to carry a 15mm socket wrench with me when I ride...


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

lrodriguezvodak said:


> I just bought a new Specialized Fatboy SE and the rear has a bolt-on axle. Everywhere I look it states that it comes with a quick release axle. Does anyone know if this is correct? Is there an easy way to convert? I dont want to carry a 15mm socket wrench with me when I ride...


You bought a 2016


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

lrodriguezvodak said:


> I just bought a new Specialized Fatboy SE and the rear has a bolt-on axle. Everywhere I look it states that it comes with a quick release axle. Does anyone know if this is correct? Is there an easy way to convert? I dont want to carry a 15mm socket wrench with me when I ride...


On Sale Framed 197mm x 12mm Rear Thru Axle


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## MichaelHumpal (Sep 12, 2012)

prj71 said:


> On Sale Framed 197mm x 12mm Rear Thru Axle


He has a "BMX" threaded axle and nut, not a thru axle.


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

lrodriguezvodak said:


> I just bought a new Specialized Fatboy SE and the rear has a bolt-on axle. Everywhere I look it states that it comes with a quick release axle. Does anyone know if this is correct? Is there an easy way to convert? I dont want to carry a 15mm socket wrench with me when I ride...


i have the initial run of Fatboy SE's that have QR front and rear. Maybe your LBS can swap out the axle. Otherwise, I recommend the Jethro Tule from Surly. Fits right in your seat bag and opens your beer after the ride too! I use it on my SS Pugsley, which I converted to a solid axle, because the QR could not keep the rear wheel from slipping in the horizontal dropouts.

Small Parts | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes


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## Tctic (Nov 3, 2015)

About 2015 Fatboy cranks. Everything else is now upgraded in my Fatboy (lauf, m8000/m9000, jackalopes+big ride, hope e4 race, carbon bars) but crankset is still original Samox. What is best choice for reasonable price crankset? And will 170mm spindle be ok with big shoes (shimano size UK12)?

Aeffect:
https://www.raceface.com/products/details/aeffect-cranks

or

Turbine:
https://www.raceface.com/products/details/turbine-cinch-cranks

And this is correct bb?
https://www.raceface.com/products/details/cinch-pf30-bb


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## Tctic (Nov 3, 2015)

Ready to go!


Update to new -15 Fatboy. Lauf, Slx-brakes, Bontrager Jackalope rims (because of easy tubeless), Dt Swiss 350s big ride rear hub, Renthal carbon bar, XTR shifter, XT rear derailleur, Sunrace 11-cassette, saddle and seatpost were changed too but they are still Specialized. Crankset I'm gonna change in some time but not yet. Weight 13780g.


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## HEMIjer (Jul 17, 2008)

Just built up a used 2016 frameset with the following, built on strict budget with a lot of parts that came with frame or I had laying around and still came to under 28 pounds very happy with it so far.

- Frame and Fork 2016
- Wheels: bitex Hubs, Otso rims, tubeless of course with Hope QRs
- Tires Surly Edna setup tubeless super easy
- Crank: 170 / 170 Race Face Turbine with blackspire 30t ring
- Drive Train: X9 shifter, GX 10 speed derailleur, Sunrace 11-42 cassette
- Race face turbine handlebars and seatpost, generic 60mm stem
- Koobi saddle old and worn out but was in the parts box still decently comfy

Ill get a picture up soon and ride report once I have some differing terrain miles under the tires, but interested in knowing what others are getting weight wise and what component selection they used for their budget fatboy builds?

EDIT pic added - first ride some quick gravel doubletrack, singletrack soon


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

I've been lovin' riding this bike on dirt singletrack (after riding it almost exclusively in snow for the last 2-3 years). I also increased Bluto travel from 80mm to 100mm this year. Love it - would not go back.

2014 Expert ('15?) Black with Red accents - size L
Bluto (100mm)
Salsa Front hub
carbon 1" riser bar
Thompson alloy seatpost
Surly Nate 4.0 Rear (summer tire)
GC 4.6 Front (summer tire)
Speclzed 2.5 - 3.5 tubes
XT cassette
DT Swiss 350 rear hub (stock hub died a few weeks ago)
XTR clipless pedals
Ergo grips

Came in at 31.8 lbs. 

Recently ordered new wheels - Nextie 90mm double wall carbon tubeless rims (should be good for 4 season riding) laced up to DT Swiss hubs. Can't wait to see how they affect...everything!

As soon as we get some real snow bike will go into winter mode - Bud/Lou tires and flat pedals.

Enjoy the ride!

The only upgrade I'm considering now would be the crank/BB - but don't want to spend $400+. Is there anything under $150-$200 (cranks and BB) worth getting?


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## Horror Business (Jan 7, 2009)

Just got a 2018 Fatboy!


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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

delete


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## Horror Business (Jan 7, 2009)




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## ak-rider (Jan 4, 2015)

Nice!


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## Horror Business (Jan 7, 2009)

Thanks. It's my first fat bike and I am pretty excited about it. Took it on a trail ride last weekend and it was spectacular. We had about 3" of snow on the ground.


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## JuniorOverland (Jan 10, 2016)

Well, my Gravity BEM wasn't cutting it anymore. I disliked the weight, the tires weren't great in snow, I had all kinds of chain suck, and then after winter and getting cleaned up the whole drivetrain rusted solid in storage. I was fed up and didn't want to keep putting money into my starter Fat Bike. I test rode a 2018 Fatboy on a whim and what a difference, dare I say it feels better than my regular mountain bike. Also, out of no where, my wife suddenly decided she wanted a fat bike so we started looking around. Last week I ordered a 2018 Fat Boy in black and a old stock 2017 Hellga in gray. I'd say we are well set and I am loving the Fat Boy. Won't look back.
IMG_2926 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_2937 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_2943 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_2953 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

The DT Swiss / Nextie carbon wheels took off more than 2 lbs in weight. More than 2.5 probably, actually. But can't say for sure because I never weighed it with bone stock hubs. Only with Salsa fr and DT Swiss rr ( laced into stock rims - and they were close 2.5 lbs less than these, before sealant tho.)



CObikeman said:


> I've been lovin' riding this bike on dirt singletrack (after riding it almost exclusively in snow for the last 2-3 years). I also increased Bluto travel from 80mm to 100mm this year. Love it - would not go back.
> 
> 2014 Expert ('15?) Black with Red accents - size L
> Bluto (100mm)
> ...


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

*Cheap Fat boy*

Hey people
Should i get a Fat bike?

Ive been thinking about it for ages but because I'm almost 47 years old i started thinking i would look a bit stupid on a fat bike?

The other day i was sitting in my car when a guy older than me came past me on one and that made my mind up"Go for it"

I had a quick look around and found a 2015 Specialized Fat boy in orange that had been sat at the back of a bike shop since its delivery date and
Just up the road too i couldn't believe my luck.

So it was brand new and unused i made an offer of £800 with lights and some v8 pedals. They accepted as they wanted it out the way.

Ive added a handle bar bag, Brooks saddle. I got rid of the white in the rims and replaced it with black. Ive been having tons of fun on it.
I will upgrade the brakes at some point to some XT's and then the cranks and stuff to SRAM GX 1x12

Other stuff i thought of could be Thomson stem,carbon bars, seat post and seat post clamp. I like Thomson stuff.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

My last fat bike was just like the one you posted. I still have Fatboy but a carbon one. It is a bit racier (mainly a degree or so steeper head angle) so one has to watch the slow rocky descents but on snow, it is perfect. It turns sharply without washing out and navigate those tight uphill and downhill switchbacks tightly. There are some I cannot make easily on my slacker 29er and I do with the Fatboy. It is fun though I do prefer it on snow since I don't like hardtails on anything but smoother dirt. I have ridden it on dirt as well since we have no snow this year and it does well enough. I'll be keeping this bike as a dedicated snow and if I find a Farley on sale at the end of the season, I'll pick one up.


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

Flyer said:


> My last fat bike was just like the one you posted. I still have Fatboy but a carbon one. It is a bit racier (mainly a degree or so steeper head angle) so one has to watch the slow rocky descents but on snow, it is perfect. It turns sharply without washing out and navigate those tight uphill and downhill switchbacks tightly. There are some I cannot make easily on my slacker 29er and I do with the Fatboy. It is fun though I do prefer it on snow since I don't like hardtails on anything but smoother dirt. I have ridden it on dirt as well since we have no snow this year and it does well enough. I'll be keeping this bike as a dedicated snow and if I find a Farley on sale at the end of the season, I'll pick one up.


Cool!
Ive now upgraded the following:

Shimano XT M8000 brakes
Thomson Carbon bar
Thomson Stem
Thomson stem cap
Thomson Seat post
Thomson seat post clamp

Next week will either be upgrading to SRAM GX Eagle or XT? Not made up my mind as yet lol


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Nice. I have only done tubeless and Enve bars but dropper incoming. May do new wheels. I like XT stuff...durable.


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## TomBrooklyn (Jul 18, 2008)

FATBOY SE
FRAMESETS AVAILABLE?
SWAPPING COMPONENTS FROM SMALL FRAME TO LARGE

2015 to 2015 or 2015 to '16, '17, '18

*1. Are Fatboy SE Framesets available?*

I didn't see them offered on Specialized's website

*2. Can I swap everything off a Small 2015 SE to a 2015 or newer Large frame?*

Any issues besides longer cables?

I don't necessarily want a newer frame, I am just willing to take any year I can find. Is there any reason to prefer a newer frame?

I can't find the specs on a 2015. Does anyone know where they can be found?

For a newer frame:
.The 2015 has 2x chainwheel. Will they fit on a frame that comes standard with 1x?
. Tire size and hubs OK?


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

Flyer, I agree with pretty much everything you said about the geo of the carbon frame, but I think what you say about the handling on snow also applies to the gillions of miles of loose over hardpack you find from Southern Colorado to Southern California. Yeah, it is not the bike to hit chunky stuff fast, but going up and down loose steeps, railing tight downhill switchbacks with confidence, and controlled climbing going up said switchbacks, it is awesome. The front end stays planted and steers. Yeah, it is primarily a racy snow bike, but when it gets loose, tight and twisty, or for slow work through a little bit of rock, it acquits itself well.


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

HHL said:


> Flyer, I agree with pretty much everything you said about the geo of the carbon frame, but I think what you say about the handling on snow also applies to the gillions of miles of loose over hardpack you find from Southern Colorado to Southern California. Yeah, it is not the bike to hit chunky stuff fast, but going up and down loose steeps, railing tight downhill switchbacks with confidence, and controlled climbing going up said switchbacks, it is awesome. The front end stays planted and steers. Yeah, it is primarily a racy snow bike, but when it gets loose, tight and twisty, or for slow work through a little bit of rock, it acquits itself well.


I've just been offered a 2016 Fatboy comp carbon in red. Anyone got one with some images? Are you happy with it and will I notice much difference from my alloy Fatboy?


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

*Joined Team Fatboy*

At 41 I'm sort of jumping back in to the MTB scene. I haven't really rode since my mid 20's though lol. After a bit of research the last couple of months it just seemed the fatbike fit the bill for what I was looking for.

I went back and forth between the Farley and Fatboy but the Trek dealership didn't really want to work off of the MSRP. I was able Picked up the 18' Fatboy($1800msrp one) for $1440 at my LBS.  At this point it was a easy decision.

Can't wait to ride!


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

rebnah said:


> I've just been offered a 2016 Fatboy comp carbon in red. Anyone got one with some images? Are you happy with it and will I notice much difference from my alloy Fatboy?


I have a 2018 Carbon Comp. Rides much nicer than the Alloy Fatboy I had.










Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

That looks nice in that colour


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

rebnah said:


> I've just been offered a 2016 Fatboy comp carbon in red. Anyone got one with some images? Are you happy with it and will I notice much difference from my alloy Fatboy?


I have the same color- that bright red Comp Carbon...great color. I am usually not a fan of red. I had an alloy Fatboy before this. I am very happy with it. It is lighter than my alloy one by ~4 lbs and the lower weight is evident when climbing though the wheels weight the same. I also prefer the feel of a carbon frame over alloy. In my opinion, you will notice the same differences I do...definitely the weight and most likely the "quieter" feel. I am extremely happy I got it.


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

Flyer said:


> I have the same color- that bright red Comp Carbon...great color. I am usually not a fan of red. I had an alloy Fatboy before this. I am very happy with it. It is lighter than my alloy one by ~4 lbs and the lower weight is evident when climbing though the wheels weight the same. I also prefer the feel of a carbon frame over alloy. In my opinion, you will notice the same differences I do...definitely the weight and most likely the "quieter" feel. I am extremely happy I got it.


Cool got any images?


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

HHL said:


> Flyer, I agree with pretty much everything you said about the geo of the carbon frame, but I think what you say about the handling on snow also applies to the gillions of miles of loose over hardpack you find from Southern Colorado to Southern California. Yeah, it is not the bike to hit chunky stuff fast, but going up and down loose steeps, railing tight downhill switchbacks with confidence, and controlled climbing going up said switchbacks, it is awesome. The front end stays planted and steers. Yeah, it is primarily a racy snow bike, but when it gets loose, tight and twisty, or for slow work through a little bit of rock, it acquits itself well.


Yeah, I like it for a snow bike (and I only ride it in the winter) and it works well. It washes out less than a slacker fat bike but a really good front tire and some weight forward can mitigate that I guess. The only time I have to be careful is in chunky stuff (mostly flatter section) when there is no snow. The steeper head angle necessitates more careful riding if you are used to a slacker head angle on the regular trail bike. It's fine though...I am used to it now and it is an absolute blast on snow.


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

I know this is the Fatboy thread and I already have one. What would you choose between a Fatboy comp carbon or a 2016 Scott scale 700 RC? I like them both but finding it hard to decide


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I'll try again later. As usual, Photobucket sucks so I cant post pics.


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## JuniorOverland (Jan 10, 2016)

I changed to Flickr and it works great.

Still loving our Fatboy and Hellga, It's completely re-energized my excitement for cycling.

IMG_2943 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_2953 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_2978 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

IMG_3030 by Jordan Schutt, on Flickr

I added some Raceface Atlas Pedals in blue, Raceface Atlas 50mm Stem in Blue, Raceface Atlas 780mm handlebar in Green, and Raceface Atlas lockons in blue. My wife was having a lot of trouble on our first snow ride with her pedals icing up so I picked up a set of Crank Brothers Stamp 2's to solve that.


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

Hope this works. Sorry for the link. Still need to figure out Flickr. Since this, I have added ENVE carbon DH bars (to get a rise) put on tubeless new tires (Bud front and Terenne Wazia rear) a new Thomson 70mm/10 stem, some small frame bags, and clipless pedals. I only use flats once the snow gets deeper...don't generally like them though I have some nice Deity ones I picked up for when we get real snow.


__
https://flic.kr/p/8


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

Flyer said:


> Hope this works. Sorry for the link. Still need to figure out Flickr. Since this, I have added ENVE carbon DH bars (to get a rise) put on tubeless new tires (Bud front and Terenne Wazia rear) a new Thomson 70mm/10 stem, some small frame bags, and clipless pedals. I only use flats once the snow gets deeper...don't generally like them though I have some nice Deity ones I picked up for when we get real snow.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/8


Looks really nice mate??
I've bit the bullet today and brought the last one in the UK from Specialized. Got an amazing price of just £1400.
I've got some Thomson carbon bars, Thomson stem, seat post and clamp ready to go on it when it arrives.
I'm going to add Shimano XTR M9000 brakes and Sram Eagle.
Will be a stonker!


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## BIGFAT29 (Jun 23, 2012)

*2018 fatboy alloy base 28 lbs all stock except tires and tubes*



rebnah said:


> Looks really nice mate
> I've bit the bullet today and brought the last one in the UK from Specialized. Got an amazing price of just £1400.
> I've got some Thomson carbon bars, Thomson stem, seat post and clamp ready to go on it when it arrives.
> I'm going to add Shimano XTR M9000 brakes and Sram Eagle.
> Will be a stonker!


My new $1499.00 (sale price) 2018 fatboy base medium with m5 aluminum frame and carbon fork only weighs a little over 28 lbs. all stock except for bottle cage ,schwalbe jumbo jim (liteskin) 26 x 4.8's and lighter schwalbe tubes. all reflectors ,rim stout decals and cage bolts were removed. this new bike for 2018 has been mostly ignored by bike magazines and online reviews but with its many factory upgrades from last year it is a lot of bang for the buck !


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## rebnah (Mar 8, 2015)

BIGFAT29 said:


> My new $1499.00 (sale price) 2018 fatboy base medium with m5 aluminum frame and carbon fork only weighs a little over 28 lbs. all stock except for bottle cage ,schwalbe jumbo jim (liteskin) 26 x 4.8's and lighter schwalbe tubes. all reflectors ,rim stout decals and cage bolts were removed. this new bike for 2018 has been mostly ignored by bike magazines and online reviews but with its many factory upgrades from last year it is a lot of bang for the buck !


Looks great!
Mine has gone now and I've finished a completely new MTB build instead.


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## StaticSag (Apr 11, 2015)

rebnah said:


> Hey people
> Should i get a Fat bike?
> 
> Ive been thinking about it for ages but because I'm almost 47 years old i started thinking i would look a bit stupid on a fat bike?
> ...


Love the orange. Such a cool color!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

StaticSag said:


> Love the orange. Such a cool color!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree. That was my first choice but I couldn't find the orange in medium. I almost wasn't going to buy the black but again at the price I got it for put me over. A couple months later and I have to say the gloss black has really grown on me.


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## StaticSag (Apr 11, 2015)

Tyr-Sog said:


> I agree. That was my first choice but I couldn't find the orange in medium. I almost wasn't going to buy the black but again at the price I got it for put me over. A couple months later and I have to say the gloss black has really grown on me.


Most of my bikes are black. There's no fleas on your bike; love that one too!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

Schvizen said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'd like to put a bluto on my 2017 medium sized aluminum fatboy (new frame design). Does anyone know if the fork will clear the downtube? The frame looks to have mounts for a frame bumper/stop like the carbon fatboy frames, but my LBS says there isn't one available to purchase, and the bumper for the carbon frame doesn't fit my bike. Please offer any insight to this as I don't want to buy a fork that could potentially damage my frame. Thanks in advance.


It does exist and I have one for sale if anyone needs it for$10+shipping. I cracked my Alum 17 Fatboy and uppgraded to carbon comp.






r


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

BIGFAT29 - Same frame as 17 fatboy, mine cracked at botom bracket/chainstay weld on drive side. This frame has a lot of flex if ya stomp on it. Keep an eye on it.


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## BIGFAT29 (Jun 23, 2012)

Thanks for the heads up blaster182.now Im a little worried as Im not skinny. I weigh about 200 pounds.when your frame cracked what was your weight ? Im a old guy and dont ride hardcore anymore. maybe if I stop all the wheelies my frame will last .


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## saron (Oct 10, 2011)

Hi I hope I have the right thread.
I have the 2014 model with a blown free hub.
Behind all 3 pawls there has been metal broken off the freehub body.
Does anyone know if I can replace the freehub with a freehub with more pawls or a stronger version.
I’m 100kg and the freehub broke when I was bikepacking.

Cheers


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

BIGFAT29 said:


> Thanks for the heads up blaster182.now Im a little worried as Im not skinny. I weigh about 200 pounds.when your frame cracked what was your weight ? Im a old guy and dont ride hardcore anymore. maybe if I stop all the wheelies my frame will last .


I weigh 185, I am sure this is not a widespread problem, I think it was just an unfortunate manufacturing defect. I do ride my bike hard, on rooty, Rocky trails. I mearly want people to be aware of my issue, and just keep an eye out with periodic inspections, so you don't get caught getting stuck or hurt on trails.
Be safe and have fun with your Fatboy,. Did not stop me from getting another one. Love my bike!


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

saron said:


> Hi I hope I have the right thread.
> I have the 2014 model with a blown free hub.
> Behind all 3 pawls there has been metal broken off the freehub body.
> Does anyone know if I can replace the freehub with a freehub with more pawls or a stronger version.
> ...


Specialized has had issues with the rear hubs. If you still have your bill of sale, I would recommend returning rear wheel to specialized dealer. They are fantastic with warranty's. They replaced mine with a HOPE fatsno hub and paid for wheel relacing.


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

I just picked my nine-year-old son up a 24" Fatboy brand new for $500. It's going to be a surprise so I didn't size him on it. With doing a little research it seems like we should be good for a couple years anyways. He's 4'6" right now. 

Besides once he's too big for the 24" then I'll give him my medium fatboy. Then Daddy gets a full carbon 😁


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

Sweet!:thumbsup:


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

Nice bike 

Can't wait to give it to him!


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

Tyr-Sog said:


> Nice bike 
> 
> Can't wait to give it to him!
> 
> View attachment 1215605


Great when you can get your kids into what you love.
I did the same for my kid when he was really young.
Always made it fun and rode together a lot, on as many trails as we could find. He is now 19 and I now have the greatest riding buddy I could have ever have wished for. Always wants to go at a moment's notice. Anywhere, anytime. Night riding is the best!
Enjoy the ride!!!!:thumbsup:


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

Blaster182 said:


> Great when you can get your kids into what you love.
> I did the same for my kid when he was really young.
> Always made it fun and rode together a lot, on as many trails as we could find. He is now 19 and I now have the greatest riding buddy I could have ever have wished for. Always wants to go at a moment's notice. Anywhere, anytime. Night riding is the best!
> Enjoy the ride!!!!:thumbsup:


Yes! I'm excited and hoping this is the case!


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## Tyr-Sog (Jan 17, 2018)

My lbs has the new 2019 carbon in and it looks pretty slick.

I don't see it on Specialized website. I did find one photo online but the photo doesn't do the bike justice. It looks great in person.


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## Katt (Jul 3, 2011)

Last week I was a few hours away from home attending meetings for work. I had been there for a couple of days and noticed a bike shop not far from where my meetings were at, so I stopped in over lunch one day. In a forgotten, dusty corner I found this guy marked down on clearance. It was just my size so I took it on an extensive test ride. 

Since I didn’t have my bike rack with me and I carpooled with co-workers I had no way to get this bad boy home so I put it on lay away. Now I just need to plan a trip back in the next week or two and bring it home!!!


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## fatfart (Nov 22, 2017)

Tyr-Sog said:


> My lbs has the new 2019 carbon in and it looks pretty slick.
> 
> I don't see it on Specialized website. I did find one photo online but the photo doesn't do the bike justice. It looks great in person.


I rode the 2019 Fatboy Comp Carbon today. I was going to another shop to buy a Ice Cream Truck and stopped at another shop to see what they had to offer. After riding the Fatboy Comp Carbon, I passed on the ICT and will most likely buy the Fatboy. My shoe rubbed on the crank of the 2019 ICT when peddling much like my shoe rubbing on the chain stay of the Mukluk (2017 i think). Didn't have the problem with the last years ICT. The crank is different on the new ICT.

The Fatboy Comp Carbon is a bit over my budget but I think I will have to make it work as its the first bike I have rode that I wont have to make changes to get it to my liking. I will still do some more shopping to make sure though.


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## Blaster182 (Oct 29, 2016)

You will love it!


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## ramarren (Apr 4, 2017)

I've had my Fatboy Comp Carbon since April. It was a new 2017 model leftover that I bought at a huge discount. Given how much of a discount it was, I upgraded it:


TRP four piston brakes
Shimano XT shifter/derailleur
32T Raceface front sprocket
11-46T Sunrace cassette
45mm steering stem
SKAMP pedals
Contour GL Gel saddle
Dura Fleetwood 26x4.00 semi-slick tires (I ride on the street 99% of the time)
Ergon cork grips
Oi bell
Specialized frame bag (smallest one)
OTTOlock bicycle lock
Bontrager Ion front and rear lights (and yes, I ride on the street: I kept the wheel reflectors)
Garmin Edge 25

All up and ready to ride, it weighs 28.3 lbs.

This is how it looks today, 1800 miles later:



I *love* riding this bicycle. 

G


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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

I have a 2015 Carbon Comp Fatboy. Can someone tell me what I need , headset wise, to put a Bluto on it? The Bluto is on my wife's ICT. I'd like to try it out on the Fatboy.


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## bprsnt (Jul 23, 2008)

My wife has been complaining our Moonlanders are too heavy.....(I had been eyeing the Comp Carbons for the last couple years so this was the green light)

So I stopped by my LBS just to have a look around being they were having a sale.

Wish they sold the 2019 comp carbons in a couple colors.

Ended up ordering a Gray 2019 comp carbon and a neon 2018 comp carbon.


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## sns1294 (Oct 8, 2013)

aminkman said:


> I have a 2015 Carbon Comp Fatboy. Can someone tell me what I need , headset wise, to put a Bluto on it? The Bluto is on my wife's ICT. I'd like to try it out on the Fatboy.


The specs on my 2016 Fatboy Trail that came with a Bluto: HEADSET	1-1/8" upper, 1-1/2" lower, threadless, Campy style, cartridge bearings


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## Tlarwa (Oct 3, 2018)

2015 Aluminum Fatboy ... swapping the Samox crankset out for a RF Turbine (170mm width). 2 questions (and feel free to point me to a link if it's been answered): First, if I use the RF PF30 BB, what spindle spacer configuration is needed? I think it's 1.5mm on the non-drive side and 4mm (1.5mm + 2.5mm) on the drive side (per the RF q-factor chart). Sound right? Second, can I just use the stock PF30 BB? It's not crunchy or creaky. If so, what spacers would I need? And lastly, I also have a Wheels Mfg. PF30 BB (PF30-FAT-BB) that I can use. Does anyone know the spacer configuration if I were to use that one? Thanks .. just want to have the necessary spacers before I pull the old POS Samox crankset off.

Tom


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

*Fatty*

Saw a photo of a Fatbike a few years ago. Had a specalized store in my town. Popped and and saw the beast 2016 se... agreed to buy her at once. 
After 2 years of on/off riding (I mainly used her for snow and muddy woods) I acquired a Bluto fork. I am amazed at the difference this makes. Since I had it fitted I hardly rode my full suspension bike and clocked up so many miles on the fatty. 
Not really changed anything but the saddle, grips and the fork. One word sums up the experience of riding her... fun. I go from sand to woods to gravel with no problems. Love it!!!


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

*Beach Fatty*

I loved riding her on snow. Then one day we went to the beach as people were going home.. Jumping over and through kids sandcastles, blasting next to the shore and leaving great tracks to a soundtrack of "look at the size of those wheels" from everyone I passed. You know the story.


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

...m


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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

It's bottomed out and crooked. I'd say it's time for a new arm


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## MozFat (Dec 16, 2016)

Either a new arm, if you can get one. or a complete new crank. 
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-crank-options-1046126.html
Race Face Aeffect seems to be the go to


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

Thanks guys. I dropped it off at a bike shop... they says they can hexi-coilmthe peddle back in. The arm is fine the threads are just shot. They seem quite confident it will be fine. They are very good at fixing things here. If that fails I will get a new crank. I’m lucky I can ride my bad habit while fatty is away.


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

*Broken*

As you said it is dead.


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

Mozfat sorry to be a pain but PLEASE can you send me a link to a crank or arm that will fit from a shop or eBay.co.uk. I really struggling here. Thanks j


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## Chinman (Dec 27, 2014)

If you can find a used Stout fatbike crank on eBay, that would be the cheapest and easiest option. The crank is made by Samox. I have the previous model year Samox branded crank. If you can find one of those, it would work as well. The previous year was a 2x crank, but you could mount a 104 bcd 30t chainring on it and run it as a 1x. If it were my bike, I’d go with the Raceface turbine crank. You have a PF30 bottom bracket and 100mm spindle. The Raceface Aeffect crank has a 24 mm spindle. You could probably make the Aeffect work, but you would need an adapter, since PF30 BB shell is made for a 30 mm spindle. I’d find a bike shop. If you go with one of the Raceface cranks, this will require some tools to pound out the old BB, install the new one, and get everything set up with the correct bearing pre-load. I wish Spesh had just installed a threaded BB. There would be a lot more options for replacement or upgraded cranks. Good luck!


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

Thanks Chinman. After much discussion Specalized have agreed to sell me the same crank currently fitted at a reduced price. To be fair to them once I contacted the customer service guys in London by phone things moved along much faster then by email. 
Where I live there is not many bike shops. No parts. It’s a small island. Hence why I had to make sure it was a direct replacement crank.
I know the Specalized will fit as it the same that’s on. 
To give you an idea of what I’m dealing with I went to a bike shop here after a 2 hour drive as they were meant to be the best on the island....they recommended we wield the peddle onto the crank!!!??? 
My friend comes out next week with a crank in his luggage. Sorted. 
Thanks again for the reply. To be honest I was hoping/expecting a little more help from the members here.


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## ddoh (Jan 11, 2017)

Kinda curious. How small an island is it if you can drive 2 hours?


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## Joshi (Jul 25, 2015)

It’s quite simple really, when there is no real motorway and you are driving on small lanes it takes a long time to get anywhere. When the bike shop is on the other side of a mountain that you have to drive round on aforementioned lanes takes a while. When you get there and they want to wield a steel peddle to an alloy crank it’s not great. Hence why I was so desperate for help on here.


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## Narrowback (Mar 26, 2017)

I just picked up this 2016 Fatboy. It's hardly been ridden, nubs still on the tires. I got it for less than half of a new one, so I couldn't pass it up. I think I'm going to buy some wrathchilds for it. Bring on the snow!


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## sadness (Dec 26, 2017)

Hello. How much Fatboy Carbon frameset M weight? Thanks


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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

sadness said:


> Hello. How much Fatboy Carbon frameset M weight? Thanks


I've never torn mine down but it's pretty easy to get a 24# (10.88 kg) build.


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## zaxmalloy (Jun 23, 2014)

My first fat bike is a 2015 Specialized Fatboy Base and just bought an Otso Voytek...just suits my riding style....groomed trails, iced lakes here in Minnesota.

Now wondering if I should keep the Fatboy or sell it. I have a real soft spot for it. It's all original except for some Raceface Chester pedals, Dillinger 5s for winter riding and the usual wear and tear replacements (newer chain, cassette, etc.)

Have any of you bought a new Fat Bike and kept your Fatboy? What's been your experience?


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## ekraft84 (Apr 18, 2013)

aminkman said:


> I've never torn mine down but it's pretty easy to get a 24# (10.88 kg) build.


Just picked up a '19 Carbon Comp (medium). Looking at getting a carbon bar and seatpost. 24# would be pretty impressive, but I'm assuming some wheel updates would be in order to make that happen .. ?


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Couple questions. I know it's in this thread but my phone is a PITA. 
1. I want to do a cheap 1x on my Fatboy. Can I just put a 30T narrow wide ring on and call it good?
2. I want to stud my Ground Controls. Can I put screws in the tires from the backside and still run tubes. What length screw?
3. Do they make camo rim strips or can I use camo duct tape.
4. I have fork and wheels off my Stache to run in Summer. What size rear hub will need to be used. Any cheap recommendations? 
Thanks

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## solarplex (Apr 11, 2014)

Wondering when an update is coming. They epic has more modern geo. this is like a long chain stay cx bike now. 

Throwing 27.5" wheels and minions on is like putting lipstick on a pig.


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## Mojoe (Jan 29, 2004)

From what I hear at the bike shop, Specialized is getting out of the fat bike market.


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## balt (Sep 7, 2020)

*I Joined the FatBoy Club This Week*

I've strictly had a road bike for several years, but decided to get dirty again so I picked up a used FatBoy this week. I'm looking forward to riding in the winter too. Cheers!


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