# Let's talk RC4



## snow-man (Aug 19, 2004)

Ok so mine is about 3 months old and just not feeling right.

Chattery would be a good word, and I know it has to do with settings.

And this coil has a ton of them which can be a double edged-sword for me, so help me out here.
I keep 150psi in boost chamber, 2 full turns on 500lb spring (I weigh 180lbs) and keep my low speed compression 1 click from + and my high-speed 2 clicks from full open ( -)
And my rebound is set someplace in the middle.

My rear end just chatters, brake-bumps are just harsh and the rear is skipping around in high-speed terrian. oddly enough for big stuff it feels pretty good.

Also when you guys say XX clicks on high speed or low speed what do you mean, XX clicks from + or - ??


Thanks for any help!


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## skaarman (Jun 24, 2009)

ok im no expert on rear suspension but my advice would middle everything out and slowly adjust from there on the trail. if it feels ruff when when your landing or flying over some roots change the high speed, if you want a plush ride while coasting some single track change up your low speed. if you seriously have no idea what you want just leave it in the middle.


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## hafnz (Aug 22, 2007)

snow-man said:


> Ok so mine is about 3 months old and just not feeling right.
> 
> Chattery would be a good word, and I know it has to do with settings.
> 
> ...


From your setup description I'd say you're using too much low speed compression, I'd place it in the middle of the range like skaarman sugested.

On which bike do you have it?


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2010)

The RC4 on my demo lasted about 3 weeks before it blew oil out the rebound knob, making it feel like poo... I just got it back from Fox a few days ago and it is now smooth as butter once again. Maybe yours is blown? Check to see if there is oil residue around the rebound knob.


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## nightnerd (Mar 5, 2007)

Have you tried a lighter spring rate? I found that shock have a lot of compression right out of the box. Go light with the spring and use the Bottom out adjustment if needed.


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## Iggz (Nov 22, 2006)

try faster rebound and less low speed comp


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## bullcrew (Jan 2, 2005)

My guess is its probably a fox but im just guessing though!!!! 

Throw an avalanche sticker on there that should make it run better! :thumbsup:


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## HTFR (Jan 11, 2007)

Sell it get a CCDB.


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## mr.niles (Feb 5, 2007)

snow-man said:


> Ok so mine is about 3 months old and just not feeling right.
> 
> Chattery would be a good word, and I know it has to do with settings.
> 
> ...


i have experienced similar problems. try a heavier spring with only one turn of preload.


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## mr.niles (Feb 5, 2007)

nightnerd said:


> Have you tried a lighter spring rate? I found that shock have a lot of compression right out of the box. Go light with the spring and use the Bottom out adjustment if needed.


this may be a good experiment, also.

it sounds like your current setup has too much spring force pushing against the shock with 2 turns of preload. check your sag.


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

if it feels chattery/bouncy, that means your shock is rebounding too quickly - which means you should ADD rebound - which makes it harder to come back up. this will let the wheel stick to the ground more, rather than pop back up quickly and deflect off the next hit.

find one area that is the same that you can do a bunch of runs down. go up to the top, make some adjustments, and go down.

go back up, make some more adjustments - usually in clicks of 3 just so you can feel a big difference to know whether you are headed in the right or wrong direction - and go down again and note the changes. 

as others have said, your spring might be too stiff too.


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

ustemuf said:


> if it feels chattery/bouncy, that means your shock is rebounding too quickly - which means you should ADD rebound - which makes it harder to come back up. this will let the wheel stick to the ground more, rather than pop back up quickly and deflect off the next hit.
> 
> find one area that is the same that you can do a bunch of runs down. go up to the top, make some adjustments, and go down.
> 
> ...


This guy has absolutely no idea what he's talking about.

Your problem is a combination of too much low speed and too much rebound. Run little to no low speed. The only reason to turn up the low speed on a DH bike is for brake dive. If you feel like your suspension is dropping too much under braking or in G outs then turn your low speed in until it's good. Otherwise run none. The rebound needs to be quicker for more constant small hits. If you run too much rebound thru rock gardens your suspension will continue to get further into the travel without having a chance to rebound. The more rocks and chatter the less rebound you need. The trade off is you have to ride more active and aggressive if you don't want to get bucked.


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

snow-man said:


> Ok so mine is about 3 months old and just not feeling right.
> 
> Chattery would be a good word, and I know it has to do with settings.
> 
> ...


reverse your high and low speed cmopression settings, but don't turn the HS all the way in, maybe go half way to start, and you should be good to go.

If your rear end feels a little wallowy in corners etc add one click of LS compression.

If the rear end doesn't get full travel or feels a little hard on bigger hits, reduce your HS compression a click or two. If it bottoms too easily increase HS.

Set rebound to taste, slower is better because (for the DHX anyway) it forces oil flow to go through the shims rather than the simple hole in the adjuster. It feels a little slow when you pump it, but you take a drop it feels mint.


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

Though I've no direct experience with the RC4, I work with lots of suspension stuff so hopefully I can help. Like Mr. Blonde said, "usmufm" is wrong, so don't listen to him.

Like others have suggested, your problem likely stems from one of two issues: 1) a blown shock, although unlikely or 2) too much LSC, too high a boost pressure, too much rebound damping or too stiff of a spring rate and/or not enough sag. 

When setting up my suspension, I like to start with nothing. No LSC/HSC, low Boost, and very little rebound damping. The very first thing I set is sag, as this is a prerequisite to a proper and fast setup. 

Once sag is set, which should be ~1/3 of travel, set up your rebound damping. Properly adjusted rebound damping should be slow enough not to buck you or feel too active or distracting, but fast enough so that it doesn't pack up. This is a very course subjective setting, and (actually like all settings) should be adjusted for each course/condition you ride. Just follow the buck/pack up rule and you should be alright. Experiment with different settings within this range and see which makes you feel the fastest and have the most control. Within its proper range, rebound is subject to preference. 

Start with no Compression damping. None. Ride a few runs without anything and take note of any negative characteristics. Essentially the whole point of suspension is control--control over roots rocks, bumps, through corners, off drops, etc. Take note of any hard bottoming out, fork dive or really excessive pedal bob. 

You should be using all of your travel occasionally, thats what it's there for. You should never feel like you've broken you ankles, unless because of blatantly bad technique or decision making (i.e 10ft to flat). If you are feeling like your bottoming out too often, give it a click or two of HSC every two runs and see if it improves it. If it doesn't, asses your technique (proper dropping technique etc) and then your spring rate (which you should have when you set your sag). 

Check for severe brake dive and pedal bob. Remember that any LSC adjustment will inherently be at the cost of small bump sensitivity, so adjust accordingly. With a DH bike, LSC should be used really sparingly unless if you're racing a very pedal-ly course or you are experiencing a lot of brake dive. Both of these things should be addressed with shock adjustment in conjunction with technique adjustment. 

Boost pressure should be kept at a minimum. 

Another very important thing that is not often properly dealt with is suspension balance front and rear. You could have the rear suspension dialed perfectly, but if you fork is not, your bike will feel right (and vice versa). All of the same principals apply to fork setup. 

Also it should be kept in mind that suspension can only take you so far--you need to become a smooth rider to be fast and in control. Be sentient of rider error that could be causing issues that appear to be suspension related.


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

PS- Try turning off LSC and lowering boost pressure.


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

Mr. Blonde said:


> This guy has absolutely no idea what he's talking about.
> 
> .


You just said I have no idea what I am talking about and then basically said I am right at the end of your babble:

"The trade off is you have to ride more active and aggressive if you don't want to get bucked."

Bucked as in like, wow it's bouncy and chattery? Yes you want quick rebound, but you don't want to over do it. The faster you are, the quicker your rebound will be - you have no idea about the OP's riding level.

Getting the bouncy/chattery feeling is probably his rebound being too low (too quick) for the rate he is traveling on the terrain he is experiencing this on.

You are also an idiot suggesting little to no low speed compression. Low speed compression will give you traction, and help you pump through berms and keep your speed. You should set your LSC based on sag, and what kind of terrain you are riding - but little to no LSC is retarded - you'll be blowing through your travel way too quickly. This idiot probably thinks little to no LSC to soak up those little rocks, etc... uh yeah, thats what the proper level spring is for - not messing up your damping.

Next time you wanna talk about not knowing anything, keep yourself in the conversation blondie.


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

yeah you're right, i have no idea how to tune suspension... do you guys even know what your suspension is doing when you ride?

omg, i cant gobble up rock gardens cause i have too much low speed compression and i have super slow rebound.






whats in the video, rocks:










tune what you want, good luck.


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

this guy must be wrong too:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7006559&postcount=7

i tuned motorcycles on the track, and just from LOOKING at the tire wear pattern alone, i know what adjustments to make to alleviate the irregular wear and to maximize control and traction. you guys have it backwards, sorry. i understand suspension, you guys seem to just be guessing.

agree to disagree yea?


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

ustemuf said:


> i tuned motorcycles on the track, and just from LOOKING at the tire wear pattern alone, i know what adjustments to make to alleviate the irregular wear and to maximize control and traction. you guys have it backwards, sorry. i understand suspension, you guys seem to just be guessing.


Now the explanation to THIS ought to be rich...

If you tuned motorized suspension at all, you'd know about things like "low speed bleed" and "midrange support". They apply here too.

To the OP, remember that the low speed adjuster is basically a "timing" switch for the high speed part of the valve, usually a shimstack or poppet valve. Depending on where you have that adjuster, you'll be using the HSC adjuster to tune for different events. When your LSC adjuster is turned further in, the HSC will kick in much earlier and on much smaller hits. The opposite applies as well.

Start with both dead centered and work from there. Typically you don't want one at one extreme opposite of the other for LSC/HSC.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

More rebound damping means that the "bypass hole" that allows oil to return quickly to the other side of the piston is closing, thereby the oil has to go through the rebound shims. This decreases feedback up to a certain point as energy is being transformed into heat because of the shims. This is why many many pro riders are running very "slow" rebounds, and running fully open rebound (less rebound damping) is just wasting precious shock technology.

From Darren at PUSH:

"With a Factory Tuned DHX from us you have two rebound components. First is the low speed bleed which is what you adjust using the external dial. This dial simply opens and closes a single port in the center of the piston. Second is the rebound ports in the piston. These piston ports are covered by the shim stack which is arranged based on the spring rate and stroke. This port and shim stack arrangement acts as an automatically adjusting orifice system that changes based on spring load and input speed.

If you run the external adjuster too far open (faster), you reduce the pressure being applied to the shim stack at the piston therefore not allowing it to open as effectively to dump fluid at higher speeds. By running the external rebound adjuster towards the slower side you get less suspension deflection a lower speeds increasing traction and control and more fluid flow at higher speeds due to the piston opening more effectively.

Darren"

More info:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228448


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> You just said I have no idea what I am talking about and then basically said I am right at the end of your babble:
> 
> "The trade off is you have to ride more active and aggressive if you don't want to get bucked."
> 
> ...


Nice effort, but the OP never said a word about "bouncy". "Chattery and harsh" seem to be the key adjectives. Nice back pedaling though.

Perhaps I really am an idiot, and the past many years of successfully tuning my own and others' suspension are irrelevant. Let the OP decide.


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> this guy must be wrong too:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=7006559&postcount=7
> 
> ...


Like you, that guy is also a bonehead. Just because another person shares your incorrect ideology regarding suspension set-ups does not make either of you right.


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

tacubaya said:


> More rebound damping means that the "bypass hole" that allows oil to return quickly to the other side of the piston is closing, thereby the oil has to go through the rebound shims. This decreases feedback up to a certain point as energy is being transformed into heat because of the shims. This is why many many pro riders are running very "slow" rebounds, and running fully open rebound (less rebound damping) is just wasting precious shock technology.
> 
> From Darren at PUSH:
> 
> ...


Just an FYI, in any damping circuit, since it is basically "adjustable" friction, the energy is always turned into heat, shim stack, ported orifice or other wise.


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## timotious (Aug 9, 2006)

Chill Chill, can't we keep it from being personal? My suggestion, Scrap your current settings, start from the beginning and work through the list Dowst gave.


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> Bucked as in like, wow it's bouncy and chattery?


Two completely different and fairly independent things.

Chattery (the way I understand "chattery") happens when the wheel cannot track small to medium bumps, this only happens because the suspension is not reacting to the bump, ie the force gets transfered to the chassis/rider and you loose traction because the wheel is bouncing over all those little bumps.

This can happen for three reasons:
1) To stiff a spring (if sag is right this is not the problem).
2) TOO MUCH LSC or HSC, rather than moving and absorbing the bump, the suspension heavily resists movement and transfers that force to the chassis.
3) Too much rebound, ie suspension is not returning in time for next bump and since the suspension is allready partially compressed it feels like the spring rate increased.

Now Bouncy on the other hand is the feeling of getting ejected, on the rear that means not enough rebound damping, ie it returns to quick esp on bigger hits and turfs you over the bars.

What you are spouting as gospel, over damped systems, is not the right case for all people, or even all terrain.

You said you tuned suspension for bikes on a track by looking at wear patterns, nice, so you mean road racing? where there are minimal rock gardens and lumpy roots? Pretty much all of the suspension movements on these bikes are low speed, ie brake dive and acceleration and hard cornering, where I completely agree with you re LSC.

However, when the terrain gets messy and the suspension has to follow rougher and rougher surfaces, you need more "active" suspension, ie one that can track the ground quickly, which keeps the tire on the ground and gives you traction, ie less and less LSC and HSC. Now did I say NONE?! no, start with zero LSC and increase until you tame you low speed events with out being too detrimental to small bump compliance.

Now you think oh lots of little rocks, thats a job for HSC right? yes, but at every little bump you have to kick the LSC circuit out, and that has some resistance until you get movement (if it didn't it would not be a good LSC!), so on every HSC event you have to kick past the LSC, so it feels progressively more harsh as you add more LSC, because blowing past it becomes more difficult.

Too much HSC feels progressively harsher for the same reason, ie more impact is being "damped" ie the shock is resisting compression, thereby transferring more of the direct impact force to the chassis rather than that force going to compressing the spring.

Since its also largely a subjective thing YMMV


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

Anyone else had a good laugh at this thread, every single option seems to have been suggested!

So as long as he increases, dcreases and keep all dials in the middle at the same time he should fix the issue. simples.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

CaveGiant said:


> Anyone else had a good laugh at this thread, every single option seems to have been suggested!
> 
> So as long as he increases, dcreases and keep all dials in the middle at the same time he should fix the issue. simples.


+1

Yeah, reply without subscription to this one...don't want this shitstorm in my inbox


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

essenmeinstuff said:


> Just an FYI, in any damping circuit, since it is basically "adjustable" friction, the energy is always turned into heat, shim stack, ported orifice or other wise.


Yeah but the friction from oil passing through a bypass circuit will be significantly lower than from a shim stack.


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## snow-man (Aug 19, 2004)

Thanks guys!

Great info in here (aside from the Moto stuff)

I think the posts make sense and I understand them now, much better understanding of how all these adjustments work.

So this is what I found on mine;

I had my HSC pretty much open (1-2 clicks from -) good
I had my LSC open as well (bad) so I adjusted that to closed (+)
Rebound is good, not slow and not fast right in middle and my sag is good with 2 turns on spring.

And yes as mentioned above my definition of "chattery" is the rear wheel just hitting off every brake bump and the rear wheel not sticking to the ground, it wasn't tracking like I wanted.
Yet I was blowing thru travel on hard hits..with 150psi in boost

So I dialed out my settings as mentioned above and will be trying her out this week with results...to come
Thanks again!
Stoked to try 'er out now


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

I assume this is on the demo 8 as per your sig?

Maybe post on the spec form or maybe guys that run the demo here can throw in some good starting points.

While general discussions about the impact of HSC and LSC are good, it is largely dependant on the frame and suspension leverage rate and how much this changes during the travel, settings on my bike would likely not work on your for example.

Have a read of THIS

most importantly, go play!


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## snow-man (Aug 19, 2004)

Good point, how do I transfer this post over there?

And yes, read the Fox site (also viewed vids) and got some basics but it's not nearly as much help as you guys have been on here. 

2010 Demo 8


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## mr.niles (Feb 5, 2007)

on the fox site "harsh on small bumps but uses travel" sounds like your problem. consider the forces of 2 turns (2mm) preload on a 500 lb spring - 39.4 lbs. now consider the 1 turn preload on a 550 lb spring - 21.65 lbs. when the rear wheel is unloaded over a braking hole, the shock wants to top-out with 40 lbs of force the way you have it right now. the braking holes are small and frequent, so when you go fast over them you get chatter from the top-outs. so you might be tempted to increase rebound damping to slow down the top-out, but that only makes the shock pack as you go thru the line of bumps. believe it or not, a 500 lb spring with a static preload of 40 lbs is actually stiffer than a 550 lb spring with 22 lbs preload from top-out to 9mm of travel. so, from top-out up to about 10mm, the 500 lb spring is stiffer preloaded the way you have it now.

i'd try less preload on your existing 500 lb spring, or a 550 lb spring with less preload. both mean more sag than you have now, but the 550 lb spring will get stiffer thru the travel than the 500 lb, giving bottoming resistance.


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

Good point on the preload, I never really considered the effect it would have at light suspension loads like skipping over chatter.


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## snow-man (Aug 19, 2004)

Makes sense Mr. Niles


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## gurp (Jan 20, 2004)

Try this - you'll get the best personal results. Find a section of track with a rock garden, a hard corner and a braking spot that you can ride down/hike back up quickly. 

Start with high and low speed compression full open. Run enough rebound to keep the suspension from bucking riding off a curb. The rebound adjuster is most affecting low speed rebound, although as pointed out in the copied post by Darren @ Push it also acts as a high speed bypass to some extent. 

Follow this procedure for low speed comp. Once finished do the same for high speed. Finally do the same for rebound, although be aware that rebound will affect compression and you may need to make some slight adjustments after. 

- Start full open, take one run
- Set to full closed, take one run
- Decide which you like best. For this example lets say you liked full open best.
- Set halfway open. Compare to full open. Decide what you like best. Assume full open again.
- Set in the middle between halfway open and full open. Compare.
- Repeat until you find the setting you like.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

ustemuf said:


> yeah you're right, i have no idea how to tune suspension... do you guys even know what your suspension is doing when you ride?
> 
> omg, i cant gobble up rock gardens cause i have too much low speed compression and i have super slow rebound.
> 
> ...


Dont forget this video!


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## CrustyOne (Oct 29, 2007)

LMAO......Darwin Award:cornut:


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## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

I throughly enjoyed that video!


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

haha awesome vid, pretty good crash testing of teh camera...


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

hahah... yes yes... laugh all you want, that's what i made that video for 

truth is most of you keyboard warriors probably couldn't come close to keeping up with me and i haven't even been riding a year. it took months of crashing to make that video!! ... but 40 foot doubles, big drops, gnarly downhill, nothing is a problem for me. how many of you "riding guru's" can say the same?

my bikes are setup perfect, and as you can see my suspension is dialed just right for what i do. i am my own mechanic, i built both my bikes from the frame up. just because i have different suspension theory, i'm an idiot?? right...

it seems that i misinterpreted the original posters suspension question in the difference between CHATTERY and BOUNCY, which would explain why my suspension suggestions may not be what he is looking for. yes, my mistake...so i suppose i'm the idiot, sure. whatever makes you trolls happy :thumbsup:


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

dowst said:


> Nice effort, but the OP never said a word about "bouncy". "Chattery and harsh" seem to be the key adjectives. Nice back pedaling though.
> 
> Perhaps I really am an idiot, and the past many years of successfully tuning my own and others' suspension are irrelevant. Let the OP decide.


not back pedaling, i just rushed my advice without re-reading his problem. chattery is different, no disagreement from me there.


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## DHidiot (Aug 5, 2004)

ustemuf said:


> truth is most of you keyboard warriors probably couldn't come close to keeping up with me and i haven't even been riding a year. it took months of crashing to make that video!! ... but 40 foot doubles, big drops, gnarly downhill, nothing is a problem for me. how many of you "riding guru's" can say the same?


Okay mouth, come ride with me then. We'll see who can't keep up with who.

BTW, if it took you months of crashing to make a clean top to bottom run of Pacifica, which isn't difficult at all, you might want to lay off the boasting. Nobody is intimidated or impressed, least of all me.


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## ustemuf (Oct 12, 2009)

DHidiot said:


> Okay mouth, come ride with me then. We'll see who can't keep up with who.
> 
> BTW, if it took you months of crashing to make a clean top to bottom run of Pacifica, which isn't difficult at all, you might want to lay off the boasting. Nobody is intimidated or impressed, least of all me.


yeah dude, i crashed every single time i rode Pacifica. thats what all those clips are, consecutive runs.. how did you know!?!?

and yeah, i'm still riding my cannondale moto and perp in the video... that i sold months ago.

really living up to your name huh? i don't ride with d o u c h ebags (that would be you), but if i see you on the trail i'll be happy to give you a free lesson.

gl to the op on suspension setup, don't take my advice - i confused bouncy/chattery and made wrong suggestions.


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## Yody (Jan 21, 2008)

ustemuf said:


> hahah... yes yes... laugh all you want, that's what i made that video for
> 
> truth is most of you keyboard warriors probably couldn't come close to keeping up with me and i haven't even been riding a year. it took months of crashing to make that video!! ... but 40 foot doubles, big drops, gnarly downhill, nothing is a problem for me. how many of you "riding guru's" can say the same?
> 
> ...


Lol


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## Demodude (Jan 27, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> hahah... yes yes... laugh all you want, that's what i made that video for p:


Dude, you rock for posting a video like that, I love laughing at myself and others..

I think you guys arguing should ride together and grab a beer...


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

Yeah, slowest pays for the brews...


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> hahah... yes yes... laugh all you want, that's what i made that video for
> 
> truth is most of you keyboard warriors probably couldn't come close to keeping up with me and i haven't even been riding a year. it took months of crashing to make that video!! ... but 40 foot doubles, big drops, gnarly downhill, nothing is a problem for me. how many of you "riding guru's" can say the same?
> 
> ...


The funny thing is, if good advice comes from someone whos never even been on a bike (your e warrior), that doesn't change the fact that its good advice. Conversely just be cause you hit 40ft doubles, doesn't make you automatically right.

You need to chill and stop assuming its an insult to your manhood every time someone presents an idea different to yours. You consider it, if you don't like it fine, or present a counter discussion, and you progress and learn, either making your concepts stronger or learning something new.

Calling everyone a troll or a d o u che or an e-warrior because they disagree with your e-expert opinion is weak.


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## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

ustemuf said:


> hahah... yes yes... laugh all you want, that's what i made that video for
> 
> truth is most of you keyboard warriors probably couldn't come close to keeping up with me and i haven't even been riding a year. it took months of crashing to make that video!! ... but 40 foot doubles, big drops, gnarly downhill, nothing is a problem for me. how many of you "riding guru's" can say the same?
> 
> ...


 With an attitude like your's and riding style (crash, crash, crash) this will be a short lived sport for you :skep:


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## slick50 (Jun 18, 2004)

ustemuf- props on the the crash video, shows the gut and determination you have for your riding for sure


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## tmarkos (Jan 18, 2008)

slick50 said:


> ustemuf- props on the the crash video, shows the gut and determination you have for your riding for sure


Agreed. I had a bro start riding just like this guy did. He just went for it on everything, no questions asked. It was inspiring, and made for some truly hilarious moments.


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## jeffte (Dec 19, 2010)

I have a question about the bottom out knob and air pressure. How does it work? If i set the bottom out knob fully closed where does it start to ramp up? Like 1/3 or 1/2of the travel?


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## his dudeness (May 9, 2007)

ustemuf said:


> yeah dude, i crashed every single time i rode Pacifica. thats what all those clips are, consecutive runs.. how did you know!?!?
> 
> and yeah, i'm still riding my cannondale moto and perp in the video... that i sold months ago.
> 
> ...


Calm down there buckaroo. I didn't know that setting up suspension properly was a direct correlation to how fast you ride and how big you go? I must be doing something wrong because there are plenty of other riders out there who are way faster than me and I have a pretty good idea about how to setup suspension so that my bike feels dialed.

I'm not calling you out or anything man, so please don't get lippy. You DID just challenge any of us "armchair warriors" to prove that we're better than you and when someone basically agreed to the challenge you called him a d-bag and said you wouldn't ride with him. So, really, just calm down. You might think that you're super awesome, and that's totally cool. But there are also a lot of people out there that can ride way over your head on less of a bike than you are probably using and they aren't sponsored.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

HTFR said:


> Sell it get a CCDB.


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Moosey (May 18, 2010)

I know nothing about suspension setup... Hell I took an effin screwdriver to my shock until it exploded and shot oil everywhere... (I knew enough to realize that's not good) so I sent my shock into avalache and now it rides amazing! I can hit 20ft doubles and 10 foot drops and ride way slower than any of you! 

I'm sure everyone here can ride better than me, so quit fighting and race me, so you can feel good about yourselves.

Btw I told Craig at avvy to setup my shock for rocks, but now it bottoms easier off drops (phodog drop). So should I just twist my spring a little or adjust with the hsc lsc junk? The sag is a tiny bit too high right now....


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## Quarashi (Aug 23, 2006)

From trying out a lot of friend's bikes and playing around with RC4's a lot, I'm 90% on the idea that your spring is too hard. With a progressive suspension curve of the demo and the pretty strong compression settings of the RC4 you can probably get away with a much lighter spring.

Lighter spring will also allow you to use your compression circuits more than your spring as resistance against bumps which will make the bike ride quite a bit more stable or as people like describe it, make the bike feel kinda of "dead" instead of bouncy. Rebound behaviour also changes drastically between spring rates.

Get a new spring, test some if you can. But if I had to go on a limb I'd say try a 400 or a 350. 

I tried a demo with a 300 (I'm 150lbs) and still thought it felt kinda harsh, but I ride an M9 so it had some tough standards to beat.


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