# Marzocchi - Better late than never



## jeffw-13 (Apr 30, 2008)

SOC14: 2015 Marzocchi Early Looks ? 650B Carbon Forks, Espresso Coatings, Enduro Shocks & More!

Introduced as their enduro oriented fork, the 350 CR offers a 35mm stanchion chassis that tips the scale at just 4.2 pounds. The 650b fork is offered in tapered steerer only with a hollow forged crown, and a new arch that is wider and flatter for improved stiffness from the lowers. The arch also tapers to a point on the front of the lowers to improve the lateral rigidity while a 15mm QR holds it together.

Inside the 350 CR uses an air spring with travel set at 160mm but internally adjustable to 140 or 150mm. Damping is controlled through Marzocchi's Dynamic Bleed cartridge which is a sealed damping system to ensure all the air can be removed from the oil before use. The CR offers adjustable compression and rebound, and the GRC coated stanchions. Retailing for $769, the fork will be available in the US in two weeks.









Aimed at the cross country market, the 320 LCR Carbon carves out a new lightweight option with the new stanchion and seals as the rest of the line up. To be offered in 27.5 and 29″ forks, the 320 will eventually be sold in LCR, CR, and R versions with a one piece carbon monocoque steerer/crown assembly and redesigned lowers. To shave as much weight as possible, the lowers are carved out any place they can without sacrificing stiffness. LCR forks will also have a new one piece seal system to reduce weight which is expected to be around 1450g for the 29er, and 1425g for the 27.5 fork. Price is TBD with an expected delivery in January.


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## kimbers (Jan 24, 2011)

Id have been keen on that 650b enduro fork

but when my new bike turned up last year I sold my excellent RC3 Tis as they were 26 only and bought a Pike

theyve really missed the boat


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Yeah, we are late to the party for sure but we are bringing some tried and true products. The Italians like to do their own thing and take their time to get it right. We will have the 350 CR shipping in the US as of next week. our first run we had in sold out in 2 weeks. the Espresso coated forks will be out by Interbike but some of the rear shocks are showing up now


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

If they are a similar ride to the 55CR then they'll be on my shopping list.
Also looking at a 29er 120 CR. Be better than what's out there in that segment of the market.


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## pedal-man (Aug 8, 2010)

Espresso coatings? Really…had to be different…?

So many different colors of stanchions coming out and making a bike look "pieced together" instead of matching hardware if different mfg.'s products are used.

Espresso fork stanchions (bronzish)…..Kashima rear shock(dark gold) and your standard stanchion color for your dropper post(nickel color)

UGH!!!!! None of them will match…..?:nono:


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

gvs_nz said:


> If they are a similar ride to the 55CR then they'll be on my shopping list.
> Also looking at a 29er 120 CR. Be better than what's out there in that segment of the market.


The 350 CR is lighter than the 55 series by quite a lot. new lowers and crown for it. the actual ride quality is similar to the 55CR (the 350 CR uses an almost identical cartridge).

The 320 series forks are pretty rad also, I can't wait to get one myself for my Turner Czar. They come stock at 100mm but we do the travel adjustment bump to 120 or down to 80mm here in house when it is ordered by the shop. I personally am not a user of longer travel 29r, stuff. as the travel goes longer, I go smaller with the wheels but that is just my personal preference.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

LOL! yeah.. pretty much. There is a reason for the color, it isn't just cosmetic, the coating color comes from the silicone-molybdenum process, we did tweak it a little with the coloring but it is a naturally dark finish. For 2015 we are only offering 2 colors: the high-end stuff will all be Espresso (including the dropper post which is in development now) and the mid range will all be a more neutral stanchion color. DJ forks will all be Cromo-steel stanchions.

but yes.. the look of mis-matched parts doesn't look right, one reason for the standardization of colors for us for 2015. Cohesiveness
.


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## Zac911 (May 18, 2012)

Thank you for the updates. I got an early run Diamondback Mission 2 and the stock Fox Forks are horrid. I will definitely be upgrading. Leaning towards the Manitou Mattoc, but patiently waiting.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Very welcome Zac, We will have the 350 CR in stock as of Monday next week, pester your shop to get one or at least cal us for info on it. 

thanks!


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I'm always rooting for Marzocchi. It would be cool to see them get more market share.


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## Zac911 (May 18, 2012)

Absolutely! Long time fan!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Awesome!! Thanks guys! I'm stoked to be back here working for a company I love. I worked here in 02, 03 but left for a while do my own thing but I'm happy to be back. Hopefully I can help make a difference. 

Cheers!

David


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## wfo922 (Dec 14, 2009)

I've surfed the web but did not find what I was looking for. Seeing how Marz USA is active in this thread I was hoping for a reply.

Any stock of internal parts for 350 fork
Will tech manuals be provided on tear down and maintenance
Will shims be available to adjust HSC to customer

Thanks


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

wfo922 said:


> I've surfed the web but did not find what I was looking for. Seeing how Marz USA is active in this thread I was hoping for a reply.
> 
> Any stock of internal parts for 350 fork
> Will tech manuals be provided on tear down and maintenance
> ...


We will have all of the internals including shims and manuals just after the forks are launched this September for sure. Our tech guys will always be available also to help with anything.


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## krzysiekmz (Nov 10, 2009)

Anything with 100-120mm of travel in the future?

Chris.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

I didnt like the fox 34 (2013), a bit ambivalent about the lack of small bump compliance of my Xfusion sweep (but like the control). So far nothing has touched the 55 RC3Ti for me. (Havent ridden the 55CR though). So if the new Zoke rides anything like the RC3Ti, Im on it! 
Also interested in that dropper post thing! (boy, reaaaalllly late!)


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

krzysiekmz said:


> Anything with 100-120mm of travel in the future?
> 
> Chris.


yep, in the 320 platform. They should be shipping by October also.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> I didnt like the fox 34 (2013), a bit ambivalent about the lack of small bump compliance of my Xfusion sweep (but like the control). So far nothing has touched the 55 RC3Ti for me. (Havent ridden the 55CR though). So if the new Zoke rides anything like the RC3Ti, Im on it!
> Also interested in that dropper post thing! (boy, reaaaalllly late!)


Nice to hear! The NCR model will for sure have that small bump sensitivity. the CR models have it too but not to the same extent as the C2R2 models by nature of the complex shimmed cartridges.

The post is in the works now and yes, very late :-/


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

smilinsteve said:


> I'm always rooting for Marzocchi. It would be cool to see them get more market share.


Thanks!!


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## thegnarlycenturion (Jun 4, 2014)

Would be ace to hear some direct comparisons - getting a fork myself and would love a marzocchi! Any changes to your 3 year no maintenance warranty?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

head-to-head shoot outs would be cool, I'd like to see them myself. I think having average riders, not magazines do these are best as magazines are always (or so they all seem) to be skewed by advertising dollars. 

Our warranty is 2-year now. the 3-year warranty stopped in 2011. Everything needs maintenance so don't just ride, you gotta take care of it! like a car, you don't drive it without changing it's oil.


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## andyfloyd (Apr 22, 2011)

I know this has nothing to do with this fork but im a Zokes fan. I still run a Bomber Atomb Bomb on my mid 90's FSR. 70mm of travel and still rides like a dream. Zokes are made to last. ok thread jack over! lol


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## thegnarlycenturion (Jun 4, 2014)

Cool. Any word on the release of the NCR and dropper post? (uk)


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

Yes, just took a look at the 350 CR, might fit the bill as an upgrade to the Factory 34 Talas CTD. Travel adjust is not a deal breaker, so right now looking at the Pike and the 2015 Fox 36 Talas, and perhaps the Manitou Mattoc.

My old 2010 Talas 36 RC2 puts the 2014 Talas 34 CTD with Trail Adjust to shame in overall feel. The only area where the 34 has been a pleasant surprise is that I don't notice any difference in stiffness between the 2010 36 and the 2014 34.

If Marzocchi is back in the game it would add another viable option. Will the 350 CR compete head to head with the Pike RCT3 or the 2015 Talas RC2 or the Mattoc Pro or is the real comparison the 350 NCR. What are the differences between the 350 CR and 350 NCR


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

I just picked up a 350 CR and took it for an initial ride yesterday. Initial impressions are very, very good - sits high in its travel, HSC tune seems great, and stiffness is pretty amazing (likely due to the 35mm stanchions and HUGE arch). Small bump sensitivity isn't quite there yet, though the fork will likely improve substantially as it breaks in.

Marzocchi - why do you say that the NCR will have better small bump sensitivity than the CR? Is it a consequence of the different stanchion coatings? From what I have read, the cartridges are very similar between the NCR and CR, with the exception of the NCR having a lockout feature and internally adjustable high speed rebound. I called Marzocchi USA, and the tech guy I spoke to wasn't able to tell me much of anything about the fork.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

babyz said:


> I just picked up a 350 CR and took it for an initial ride yesterday. Initial impressions are very, very good ...


Very good to hear. What fork were you riding previously and how does it compare.

Cheers


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

@babyz.. there is a big difference between the NcR cartridge and the CR. the NcR system is based on the 380 C2R2 but has been tuned for more trail sensitivity. The low-speed (frequency) compression is tuned to feel pedal input and provide a stable platform when the lockout is not being used as well as being fully adjustable via shims (like the 380). Plus the high speed rebound adjustability internally, the SKF seals, the Espresso coating and the option of a Ti coil (which will further increase small bump compliance). 

DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Without sounding bias to our forks I have to say the 350 series, specifically the CR is in the same league as the 34 Float (which IMHO) is the current benchmark of trail/enduro forks (next to ours of course). In a fork to fork comparison the 350 CR comes out more supple, more active, more adjustable, much stiffer and approximately the same weight. 

I can't compare any of our forks to a TALAS product because of the TALAS feature (which I personally like and have used in the past) but I have also heard of lots of issues with the TALAS system (I never experienced any when I had one. Full disclosure I rode Fox for the 8-years I was between positions here at Zoke, I worked here in the early 2000's and left and rode Fox that whole time. I had a 2010 36 TALAS and a 2012 34 TALAS, a 36 Float, and a 2013 TALAS 34 CTD. I haven't let a SRAM product touch any of my bikes in the last 10 years so I can't speak to any of their products on a personal-use level only what I hear).

I have heard good things about the Pike but I also hear lots of really bad things about it. I think the bad things I hear are from OEM models where the good generally comes from people who buy them aftermarket. I personally think the real comparison will come from the CR against the Float or TALAS products and the NcR against the Pike RCT3. Though I am beginning to hear stories about sever stiction issues with the Pike (but every fork will experience that when brand new). 

That said, the CR won't disappoint but the NcR will just change everyone's game, provided you are not too concerned about the on the fly travel adjustments. 

DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

krzysiekmz said:


> Anything with 100-120mm of travel in the future?
> 
> Chris.


yes. 3 models in the 320 platform. all stock at 100mm and adjustable to 120.


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Without sounding bias to our forks I have to say the 350 series, specifically the CR is in the same league as the 34 Float (which IMHO) is the current benchmark of trail/enduro forks (next to ours of course). In a fork to fork comparison the 350 CR comes out more supple, more active, more adjustable, much stiffer and approximately the same weight ...


Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. The biggest issue with the 34 line is the lack of high/low compression adjustment. The older 36's had the RC2 as does the 2015 model.

Does the 350 CR have a substantial adjustment range on the LSC or is it limited like the Fox CTD with open, then three trail settings?


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Hmm...any indication of what the price difference will end up being between the CR and NCR?


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> @babyz.. there is a big difference between the NcR cartridge and the CR. the NcR system is based on the 380 C2R2 but has been tuned for more trail sensitivity. The low-speed (frequency) compression is tuned to feel pedal input and provide a stable platform when the lockout is not being used as well as being fully adjustable via shims (like the 380). Plus the high speed rebound adjustability internally, the SKF seals, the Espresso coating and the option of a Ti coil (which will further increase small bump compliance).
> 
> DM


this makes sense, but I'm still struggling to really understand the performance benefits of the NCR over the CR. Out of the box, is there just a difference in the LSC sophistication? I guess the most intelligible comparison would be to the Pike...what makes the Pike a better comparison for the 350 NCR, whereas the 34 Float is a better comparison for the CR? The 34 Float is (presumably) becoming obsolete among aggressive riders with the 36 now introduced, so did I just purchase a new 350 CR that is already behind the curve of the latest offerings from Fox and RockShox?

Additionally, I am assuming the SKF seals will fit the 350 CR as an upgrade?


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## rideitall (Dec 15, 2005)

babyz said:


> this makes sense, but I'm still struggling to really understand the performance benefits of the NCR over the CR. Out of the box, is there just a difference in the LSC sophistication? I guess the most intelligible comparison would be to the Pike...what makes the Pike a better comparison for the 350 NCR, whereas the 34 Float is a better comparison for the CR? The 34 Float is (presumably) becoming obsolete among aggressive riders with the 36 now introduced, so did I just purchase a new 350 CR that is already behind the curve of the latest offerings from Fox and RockShox?
> 
> Additionally, I am assuming the SKF seals will fit the 350 CR as an upgrade?


Good questions: I am a little later to the upgrade cycle then you so I am still looking at all the options.

Yes, the Float should provide slightly better performance as compared to a similar level Talas, but not night and day better. My experience with the current 34 Talas is okay but not singing it's praise by any means. Compare that to the 2010 36 Talas RC2 and the old 2010 easily was a better fork. The new 2015 Talas 36 RC2 is supposed to be an improvement again over the older RC2 models and according to some an improvement over the much heralded Pike RCT3.

Perhaps the comparison is between the 350 CR and the Pike RC and the 350 NCR to the Pike RCT3, which still presumably would leave the new Fox 36 RC2 up top. Yes there are other mftrs like Manitou, MRP, BOS, DVO that are making quality products, some at approx the same price range and others for way more $$$.

So where does the 350 CR truly sit among the current offerings. Hopefully above the Fox 34 series with CTD!!!


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## kimbo123 (Sep 2, 2008)

Does Zoke plan to do a 20mm thru axel or are they staying with the 15mm? I do not understand the whole 15mm, why not stay with the 20mm and get the added stiffness from it?? To me it is just a money marketing scheme ...... I really want the 350NcR Ti but considering that the bike I have has the option to run a 26" @ 150x12 rear end or 27.5 142x12 rear end, and the other two bikes I have both run the 20mm front and 150x12 rear end... Well three different wheel sets that could be interchangeable would be nice. I don't care about a lock-out on a fork that is something I would rarely if ever use, but a 20mm over a 15mm thru axel fork will possibly be a big deciding factor for me. I know that the 2015 Fox line up has adapters to run either the 15mm or 20mm and Boss Deville is a 20mm. I believe the rest are 15mm; DVO, Marzocchi, X Fusion , and Manitou in the 150/160mm travel are all 15mm thru axel. Does anyone know what other 20mm fork options there are?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I hear ya about the 15mm. I don't mind it at all myself. There is a stiffness difference going from 20 to 15 that is noticeable but I don't think it is anything that is really marketing driven. If it was there would be more hype behind it. the idea is that the 15mm is lighter and ALMOST as stiff as a 20mm and the QR system that Shimano developed for it is lighter and easier to use..basically an evolution of the standard 9mm QR and the concept is 100% consumer driven (think least common denominator consumer, not the highest end users). That said the 15mm isn't going anywhere and I am sure the 20mm won't either but it will stay with the longer travel and more gravity oriented products out there. 
We offer the 55 series platform with 20mm but they are 26" wheel only. I haven't seen any plans for a 20mm version of the 350 at all but I can't speak to the future as I am not one of the engineers here. I don't have any experience with the adapter systems in the Fox and BOS forks but I would imagine they are OK. I have made step down adapters to go from 20mm to 15mm in other forks using a lathe and had some success, though the axles would wallow and loosen after a while (this could have been due to any number of factors).

so long story short.. no 20mm 650b single crown for us any time soon. If I was you and really wanted a 650b wheel, single crown fork with a 20mm I'd look to the Fox stuff, if you are going to stick with 26" wheels, please look into our 55 platform, they are solid and super reliable (but 26" only).

DM


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## kimbo123 (Sep 2, 2008)

Ha, I think that was an alcohol induced rant about the thru axel. I think at the end of the day I will go with the NCR when it comes out, MY PERSONAL experience with Marzocchi over Fox has been much better, from customer service and warranty to performance.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! that made my Monday!! 

thanks! we are for sure trying to get back that once known service quality. our products for sure are back on par where they used to be and that makes me a happy camper!

Cheers!
DM


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## bottlerocketluv (May 8, 2007)

I just purchased a 350 cr great fork . Did not get any shims though. Can you purchase them? Do you know the cost to lower the fork to 150mm thanks


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## bottlerocketluv (May 8, 2007)

I just purchased a 350 cr great fork . Did not get any shims though. Can you purchase them? Do you know the cost to lower the fork to 150mm thanks


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## thegnarlycenturion (Jun 4, 2014)

Yo. The x fusion HLR Metric is 20mm thru axle for 650b and 26" and supposedly destroys the fox 36's and is far more hardcore than the pike. Plus reliability is meant to be on par with Marzocchi stuff.


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## PuddleDuck (Feb 14, 2004)

thegnarlycenturion said:


> Yo. The x fusion HLR Metric is 20mm thru axle for 650b and 26" and supposedly destroys the fox 36's and is far more hardcore than the pike. Plus reliability is meant to be on par with Marzocchi stuff.


Yo gman, where have you heard or read about the performance and reliability of the Metric?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

this thread isn't about x fusion. That said, I'm curious about it nonetheless. We (Marzocchi) tend to do what we want (it's an Italian thing) as opposed to making something "for the masses." A one fork to rule them all mentality isn't what Marzocchi is about, but more a fork for every wheel in every discipline and these days it is less about wheel size and more about discipline i.e. XC specific, dh specific "enduro" specific.. etc.. By following the sport trends as opposed to the market trends we won't always please everyone, but we will be able to make a sport-specific, targeted product that is perfect for those individuals within each given segemnt.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Bottlerocketl, contact tech here, we can send one out, it should have come with it. The service to change the travel is (I think) $35-$45 plus shipping. Don't quote me though, I'm not in tech.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

thegnarlycenturion said:


> Yo. The x fusion HLR Metric is 20mm thru axle for 650b and 26" and supposedly destroys the fox 36's and is far more hardcore than the pike. Plus reliability is meant to be on par with Marzocchi stuff.


the metric isn't really in the same class as the 350 CR. xfusion designed it as more of an aggro fork that transcends into the "freeride" realm a bit more than the 350 - it has burly guards for the lowers, 36mm stanchions, and weighs 5+ lbs. It is also available with up to 180mm of travel - I hear its a great fork, but its more fair to compare the Sweep (sounds like they've been working on a version with more sophisticated damping) to the 350.


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> this thread isn't about x fusion. That said, I'm curious about it nonetheless. We (Marzocchi) tend to do what we want (it's an Italian thing) as opposed to making something "for the masses." A one fork to rule them all mentality isn't what Marzocchi is about, but more a fork for every wheel in every discipline and these days it is less about wheel size and more about discipline i.e. XC specific, dh specific "enduro" specific.. etc.. By following the sport trends as opposed to the market trends we won't always please everyone, but we will be able to make a sport-specific, targeted product that is perfect for those individuals within each given segemnt.


since it is a thread in the 650b forum on a consumer site people will offer opinions relating to all brands. I don't like 15mm qr and i like the option of the metric for a hardcore 650b fork. i've had good luck with xfusion, their stuff is reliable and their dampening beats fox and rockshox easily imo. marz stuff has been good but i agree it would be nice to see some internal drawings of the 350 to know about servicing them


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> so long story short.. no 20mm 650b single crown for us any time soon. If I was you and really wanted a 650b wheel, single crown fork with a 20mm I'd look to the Fox stuff,


I'm dumbfounded that it took so long for any manufacturer to include reducers to convert between the 15mm and 20mm like Fox just did. It was hello obvious 5 years ago and now it's nearly 2015 and we finally see someone do it. Wheel manufacturers figured it out a while ago. Not really trying to be negative but I hope your company and others copy the idea even if it requires raising the price of the fork slightly.


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

kan3 said:


> I'm dumbfounded that it took so long for any manufacturer to include reducers to convert between the 15mm and 20mm like Fox just did. It was hello obvious 5 years ago and now it's nearly 2015 and we finally see someone do it. Wheel manufacturers figured it out a while ago. Not really trying to be negative but I hope your company and others copy the idea even if it requires raising the price of the fork slightly.


+1.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

no worries, I honestly spaced it was a 650 forum, I was more thinking the name of the thread, it's all good and I am not one to get uppity about things like that anyway. I have been hearing more and more about X Fusion products though and that is a good thing IMHO. I have been watching them for years as they developed from the bastard step-child of Fox to what they are now. do you (or anyone) know if Joel Smith is still at the helm there? Joel is good people for sure. 

I am for sure impressed with the multi-axle option. I'd like to see it in practice though as too many moving parts can be a bad thing. In theory it sounds awesome. 

As far as internal drawings for the 350.. we are launching a dealer services site this fall that will have every bit of information on it anyone can ask for. About time for that for sure too!


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

kan3 said:


> I'm dumbfounded that it took so long for any manufacturer to include reducers to convert between the 15mm and 20mm like Fox just did. It was hello obvious 5 years ago and now it's nearly 2015 and we finally see someone do it. Wheel manufacturers figured it out a while ago. Not really trying to be negative but I hope your company and others copy the idea even if it requires raising the price of the fork slightly.


Because it's a lot cheaper and simpler to have convertible hubs. And who uses OEM wheels these days.


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## PuddleDuck (Feb 14, 2004)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> this thread isn't about x fusion.


My point indeed! I may be reading between the lines, but his low post count, the context of the post, and recent join date make me question his motives. Then again, he may just be sharing the love in his own way - and the world certainly needs more shared love


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

PuddleDuck said:


> My point indeed! I may be reading between the lines, but his low post count, the context of the post, and recent join date make me question his motives. Then again, he may just be sharing the love in his own way - and the world certainly needs more shared love


but the marzocchi guy touting a marzocchi is ok????? where has anyone heard about the reliability of the 350? it has only just come out? jesus, wtf is the matter with people talking brands.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

pretty much all hubs are convertible these days but I think the valid point of that idea is not everyone wants to use a 15mm axle and I can stand behind that. I do notice a difference between a 15mm and a 20mm but that can depend on the wheel I am running also. I have a set of Crank Bros Iodine 3 with a 15mm on my 160mm travel bike with a 350 NcR prototype fork now and I don't notice any deflection or loss in stiffness in it vrs a 20mm on my 26" wheel bike with a 55 CR. Though it isn't an apples to apples comparison as I can't put a 20mm on the NcR to find out but I haven't felt the need to have a 20mm on it. That said, my DH bike has a 20mm and 26" wheels on it.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

It's all good Qbert2000. I know the 350 has yet to be proven to the public and I can go on about how it has been used by world enduro racers for about 2 years now and blah blah marketing speak all day long but I won't because I believe in transparency. Yes, I am here to help market our brand but my "marketing" here on MTBR is limited to helping by answering any questions I can and only offering education on new or existing products. I am not interested in trying to sell anyone on anything except going out and riding their bike, no matter what is on it. I would be doing a disservice to my brand by not talking it up and wanting more riders to use what we have but I am not going to convince anyone to do anything other than spend more time on their bike and if given the opportunity, please look into what we have, especially for 2014 and 2015 as the new stuff is for sure worth the nod. 

DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Hmm...any indication of what the price difference will end up being between the CR and NCR?


Finally have prices!

The NcR Ti is going to run $1199.00
The NcR (non Ti) is going to run $959.00
The 2014 model CR is $769.00 
BUT the 2015 model CR will be $679.00 because we changed the stanchion coating treatment. the 2014 uses the Gold Race Coating while the 2015 is a natural anodize process (like the Fox Evolution series)
and the 350 R model will run $479.00


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

the LSC on the CR uses 16-18 (I forget how many exactly) clicks, it is pretty adjustable for sure.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> this makes sense, but I'm still struggling to really understand the performance benefits of the NCR over the CR. Out of the box, is there just a difference in the LSC sophistication? I guess the most intelligible comparison would be to the Pike...what makes the Pike a better comparison for the 350 NCR, whereas the 34 Float is a better comparison for the CR? The 34 Float is (presumably) becoming obsolete among aggressive riders with the 36 now introduced, so did I just purchase a new 350 CR that is already behind the curve of the latest offerings from Fox and RockShox?
> 
> Additionally, I am assuming the SKF seals will fit the 350 CR as an upgrade?


It is hard for me to talk to the differences between the CR and the Pike as I have only hearsay experience with it directly but I have ridden just about all of Fox's offerings. I am just not a fan personally of SRAM products, that has nothing to do with me at a Marzocchi employee, just that I like Shimano and my forks have always been either Zoke or Fox. The one Boxxer I had in 2005 needed so much modifications to it that it wasn't a Boxxer when I was done with it.

The NcR cartridge is night and day different from the CR cartridge, just a totally different thing, like comparing an apple to a banana. Both are awesome and get the job done for different things., they are just that however; different. In my use of each of them the NcR is slightly more sensitive and it does have a built in LSC platform to it that helps it sense pedal input where the CR does not have this.

I would say the CR is like a "35 float" but with a highly adjustable compression and a great range for the rebound.

Yes, the 35mm SKF seals will work and the CR platform can be upgraded to a NcR cartridge down the road, the form factor is identical.

DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

rideitall said:


> Good questions: I am a little later to the upgrade cycle then you so I am still looking at all the options.
> 
> Yes, the Float should provide slightly better performance as compared to a similar level Talas, but not night and day better. My experience with the current 34 Talas is okay but not singing it's praise by any means. Compare that to the 2010 36 Talas RC2 and the old 2010 easily was a better fork. The new 2015 Talas 36 RC2 is supposed to be an improvement again over the older RC2 models and according to some an improvement over the much heralded Pike RCT3.
> 
> ...


Easily above in terms of durability, action and adjustability. I use the 34 Float as an example because it is all air, similar in form factor (though smaller), is pretty widely known and used and I have personal, riding experience with it so I can speak to it vrs the Zoke forks I have ridden too.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

bottlerocketluv said:


> I just purchased a 350 cr great fork . Did not get any shims though. Can you purchase them? Do you know the cost to lower the fork to 150mm thanks


Did you get hold of the tech or sales dept at Zoke for that spacer?


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## wilks (Jan 15, 2004)

So you're judging SRAM products based off of a 9 year old fork? I assume you've forgotten what a sh1t show marzoccchi was when they first moved production and that was much more recent. I'm not hearing too many complaints about XX1 or Pike forks. I'm not a fan of their brakes mind you.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

wilks said:


> So you're judging SRAM products based off of a 9 year old fork? I assume you've forgotten what a sh1t show marzoccchi was when they first moved production and that was much more recent. I'm not hearing too many complaints about XX1 or Pike forks. I'm not a fan of their brakes mind you.


no no no.. you read me all wrong. it is a personal choice. I personally won't use their products as a master level bike mechanic (over 25 years working on bikes professionally) and as a retired WC level racer (57th ranked a long time back). I have love for John, Duncan and especially HB, (HB bought me my very first beer back in 1990 and helped cement me in this sport), I just don't care for their products in general. As I said, I am a Shimano guy and I always thought that you shouldn't mix competing products like a bike with Shimano drive-train shouldn't use SRAM forks because SRAM makes competing drive-trains. Continuity makes me happy. I do agree with you, I don't hear too many complaints about new Rock Shox products and I am not here to bash any other company, nor will I.

Trust me, I haven't forgotten about the Zoke S*** show, I never will. That is one reason I work here again, to help fix those issues.


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## qbert2000 (Jul 30, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> no no no.. you read me all wrong. it is a personal choice. I personally won't use their products as a master level bike mechanic (over 25 years working on bikes professionally) and as a retired WC level racer (57th ranked a long time back). I have love for John, Duncan and especially HB, (HB bought me my very first beer back in 1990 and helped cement me in this sport), I just don't care for their products in general. As I said, I am a Shimano guy and I always thought that you shouldn't mix competing products like a bike with Shimano drive-train shouldn't use SRAM forks because SRAM makes competing drive-trains. Continuity makes me happy. I do agree with you, I don't hear too many complaints about new Rock Shox products and I am not here to bash any other company, nor will I.
> 
> Trust me, I haven't forgotten about the Zoke S*** show, I never will. That is one reason I work here again, to help fix those issues.


that sounds disingenuous at best. saying it is a personal choice butfollowing it up that you are a 25 year master mechanic makes it sound like it is a professional opinion not a personal one. stop putting your foot in your mouth and just comment on your own stuff and let others voice their opinions about your competitors. marzocchi has had its share of issues and people are only bringing them up after your ham fisted attempts at being "impartial"


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Seedy T said:


> Hey, DM, whatever happened to Tom?


Tom? Tom Rogers I assume? He is over at DVO now.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

qbert2000 said:


> that sounds disingenuous at best. saying it is a personal choice butfollowing it up that you are a 25 year master mechanic makes it sound like it is a professional opinion not a personal one. stop putting your foot in your mouth and just comment on your own stuff and let others voice their opinions about your competitors. marzocchi has had its share of issues and people are only bringing them up after your ham fisted attempts at being "impartial"


I am terribly sorry I offended you.

Everyone is entitled to their own personal and professional opinions. I am not here to comment on other products as I have already stated, I am here to help educate and answer questions about Marzocchi stuff. I was simply talking about why I have no personal experience with anything SRAM so I can not offer a real world comparison of Marzocchi products vrs SRAM products. I am not here to defend anything Marzocchi did in the past and I have already recognized we have had some serious issues from around 2007 to around 2012-ish. Those were growing pain years for sure and it was during that time I rode Fox products myself.


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## someguy101 (Aug 21, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Finally have prices!
> 
> The NcR Ti is going to run $1199.00
> The NcR (non Ti) is going to run $959.00


Does this mean that NcR version will feature coil spring, since Ti was used to categorize the 380 and 55RC3 as a coil sprung fork. As a big Zocchi fan and future customer, would appreciate the clarification. Thanks


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## thegnarlycenturion (Jun 4, 2014)

It will be air, but have a negative coil spring! The cr/ncr differences are damper based. The Ncr/Ncr ti are the material of the coil to save a few grams. Whens the ruddy release date for the NCR though - bike is finishing being built and would like to get one, but cant if it's out! Also, the dropper.. tell us more!! (please?) =]


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Seedy T said:


> Tom gave me a one off proto 66 when Zoke was developing the 55, since it was coming in for service once a month. I really wish I had not sold that fork!


cool! yeah it's a shame, it may have been a cool piece of history!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

someguy101 said:


> Does this mean that NcR version will feature coil spring, since Ti was used to categorize the 380 and 55RC3 as a coil sprung fork. As a big Zocchi fan and future customer, would appreciate the clarification. Thanks


Yes, the NcR Ti will have a Ti coil in it where the CR and NCR air are just that, air with a coil negative spring, yes. The only designation for the 350 series to tell the difference between if it has a coil or not is the Ti model, it is the only one with a coil in it as the main spring, all others are air.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

thegnarlycenturion said:


> It will be air, but have a negative coil spring! The cr/ncr differences are damper based. The Ncr/Ncr ti are the material of the coil to save a few grams. Whens the ruddy release date for the NCR though - bike is finishing being built and would like to get one, but cant if it's out! Also, the dropper.. tell us more!! (please?) =]


release date for the 2015 350 series is early September (Interbike) we will have them shipping by then here in the US. Bug your shop to get a pre-order in now.

as far as the post... I have seen renderings of it. I can say no more though. ;-)


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## someguy101 (Aug 21, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Yes, the NcR Ti will have a Ti coil in it where the CR and NCR air are just that, air with a coil negative spring, yes. The only designation for the 350 series to tell the difference between if it has a coil or not is the Ti model, it is the only one with a coil in it as the main spring, all others are air.


Thanks for the prompt reply. Coil sprung forks get me really excited since there are not many of them produced these days, and I like the linear nature of them. Hope this brand will be able to recapture its market share and be the leader it once was.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Some advice for anyone with a 350 CR looking to drop the lowers:

I dropped the lowers last night to regrease seals and address some stickiness. The rebound knob is indeed a pain to take off, and you'll likely need a set of needle nose pliers to yank it off. One that's off, foot nuts are easy to remove and the lowers slide right off without any coaxing from a rubber mallet.

There are small o-rings recessed into each foot nut - DON'T LOSE THEM when you remove the foot nuts as one of mine was stuck to the lowers and tried to escape under my dryer.

Two things I noticed: 1) The damper side had hardly any oil (both sides require 20-25cc of 7.5wt Golden Spectro) and 2) the seals were dramatically under-greased. 

I packed the seals with slick honey, popped the lowers back on, shot 25cc of 7.5wt into each leg, and reinstalled the foot nuts. The fork feels much smoother and eager to move into its stroke - it's a simple process and absolutely worth doing if you notice stickiness when you first receive the fork.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

someguy101 said:


> Thanks for the prompt reply. Coil sprung forks get me really excited since there are not many of them produced these days, and I like the linear nature of them. Hope this brand will be able to recapture its market share and be the leader it once was.


Very welcome. I hope so too! the products we are putting out are for sure worth looking at. Playing catch up is always a tough game.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Some advice for anyone with a 350 CR looking to drop the lowers:
> 
> I dropped the lowers last night to regrease seals and address some stickiness. The rebound knob is indeed a pain to take off, and you'll likely need a set of needle nose pliers to yank it off. One that's off, foot nuts are easy to remove and the lowers slide right off without any coaxing from a rubber mallet.
> 
> ...


OH MAN!! Slick honey is not recommended for these forks!! We only use Molykote for o-rings and use it on the rubber parts only. We also use Torko oil now (though Golden is just fine).

If the stiction persists, call our tech dept and talk to them, we should be able to bring them back and service them under warranty.

Oil level is aprox 20-25cc in each leg and make sure not to take apart either cartridge.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> OH MAN!! Slick honey is not recommended for these forks!! We only use Molykote for o-rings and use it on the rubber parts only. We also use Torko oil now (though Golden is just fine).
> 
> If the stiction persists, call our tech dept and talk to them, we should be able to bring them back and service them under warranty.
> 
> Oil level is aprox 20-25cc in each leg and make sure not to take apart either cartridge.


Why is slick honey not recommended - is it that it will get pulled into the dbc cartridge? i've never heard of a fork being "non-slick honey compatible"...

the other grease was literally smeared everywhere inside of the air spring side, rubber or not, and consistency felt essentially the same as slick honey...i only put slick honey on the dust seals (above the bushings and rubber, obviously), as an entirely unlubricated dust seal is not going to help sliding friction.

i haven't truly ridden the fork yet, so if i'm going to run into issues please let me know. it feels good for now and while i'm hoping i didn't do anything wrong, it's entirely unreasonable to not publish any service materials when all of your competitors have at least released some info around basic oil changes.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Why is slick honey not recommended - is it that it will get pulled into the dbc cartridge? i've never heard of a fork being "non-slick honey compatible"...
> 
> the other grease was literally smeared everywhere inside of the air spring side, rubber or not, and consistency felt essentially the same as slick honey...i only put slick honey on the dust seals (above the bushings and rubber, obviously), as an entirely unlubricated dust seal is not going to help sliding friction.
> 
> i haven't truly ridden the fork yet, so if i'm going to run into issues please let me know. it feels good for now and while i'm hoping i didn't do anything wrong, it's entirely unreasonable to not publish any service materials when all of your competitors have at least released some info around basic oil changes.


From what I was told the Slick Honey just breaks down and will clog the valves in our forks. the stuff that was inside our forks was a special assembly lube that is formulated to break down into oil and be assimilated into the fork oil.

True about the unlubed fork causing stiction and some lube is better than none so for sure once you ride it a while if you run into any issues call our tech dept straight away.

If you just used a little at the dust seals it should be ok for now but eventually it (might) break down into the oil and get gummed up inside everything because of the DBC system.


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## thegnarlycenturion (Jun 4, 2014)

Oh, now that is exciting! Thanks again for the prompt replies. I presume this applies for the European shipping too.. either way, phone calls are being made! Oh - how similiar is the 350 ti meant to be to the 55 ti evo v.2? (other than the obvious wheel size difference). Thanks again.

Oh, exciting, very exciting.. make it stealth from the get go, and as reliable as your forks and you will have the entire market. Oh and for the love of whichever diety you believe in.. follow through with the colour matching! Ahaha.

EDIT: will you be able to choose your spring weight or will it be aftermarket?


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> From what I was told the Slick Honey just breaks down and will clog the valves in our forks. the stuff that was inside our forks was a special assembly lube that is formulated to break down into oil and be assimilated into the fork oil.
> 
> True about the unlubed fork causing stiction and some lube is better than none so for sure once you ride it a while if you run into any issues call our tech dept straight away.
> 
> If you just used a little at the dust seals it should be ok for now but eventually it (might) break down into the oil and get gummed up inside everything because of the DBC system.


perfect, thanks for the reply. i didn't overdo it on the slick honey and it should stay put (hopefully), but if i notice any issues i'll be sure to be proactive and check in with your tech guys.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> perfect, thanks for the reply. i didn't overdo it on the slick honey and it should stay put (hopefully), but if i notice any issues i'll be sure to be proactive and check in with your tech guys.


word up


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

thegnarlycenturion said:


> Oh, now that is exciting! Thanks again for the prompt replies. I presume this applies for the European shipping too.. either way, phone calls are being made! Oh - how similiar is the 350 ti meant to be to the 55 ti evo v.2? (other than the obvious wheel size difference). Thanks again.
> 
> Oh, exciting, very exciting.. make it stealth from the get go, and as reliable as your forks and you will have the entire market. Oh and for the love of whichever diety you believe in.. follow through with the colour matching! Ahaha.
> 
> EDIT: will you be able to choose your spring weight or will it be aftermarket?


Very welcome.

I can only speak to the USA, I am not sure how Windwave does stuff. As far as comparison to the Ti Evo.. sort of. The NCR is really its own unique animal with the pedal assistance low speed compression/rebound settings designed to sense the pedal induced feedback over trail bumps. That is pretty new thinking and technology, maybe an evolution of the Evo (which was an evolution of its own).


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## Luis M. (Jun 9, 2013)

Marzocchis are excellent forks at a good price. Unfortunately all companies have ups and downs. Marzocchi is now on an upswing and you can bet they'll gain market share steadily. They're once again making good forks which hopefully only get better. One thing I love about Marzocchi is their quality & longevity. The guys over at Long Beach Ca will definetely take care of anything you need. I had my 29er Corsa SL rc streched out to 120 by them and its been great. Nothing like what some of the reviews say.I've been beating the crap out of it !! Solid fork. Now looking for something a bit burlier (34-35 mm stanchions) with 120-130 travel. Is that new 320 a 34 stanchion fork?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Luis M. said:


> Marzocchis are excellent forks. Unfortunately all companies have ups and downs. Marzocchi is now on an upswing and you can bet they'll gain market share steadily. They're once again making good forks which hopefully only get better. One thing I love about Marzocchi is their quality & longevity. The guys over at Long Beach Ca will definitely take care of anything you need. I had my 29er SL rc stretched out to 120 by them and its been great. Nothing like what some of the reviews say. I've been beating the crap out of it !! Solid fork.


Thanks! We are for sure trying to get us back in the game.

Hopefully good longevity, not like that burrito I had 2 nights ago that keeps haunting me!


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## Luis M. (Jun 9, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Thanks! We are for sure trying to get us back in the game
> 
> Hopefully good longevity, not like that burrito I had 2 nights ago that keeps haunting me!


Im sure zocchi will be back. Great product and great CS.

Great thing about burritos is... not only are they good going in, but out as well.


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## someguy101 (Aug 21, 2014)

Is there plans to provide Moto C2R in smaller format, say 216x63mm 8.5x2.5", to fit smaller frames? On the website there is these options only:
- 267 x 89 mm / 10.5 x 3.5”
- 241 x 76 mm / 9.5 x 3.0”
- 222 x 70 mm / 8.75 x 2.75”


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Thanks! We are for sure trying to get us back in the game.


When will the 350 NCR Ti be available? weeks or months?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

someguy101 said:


> Is there plans to provide Moto C2R in smaller format, say 216x63mm 8.5x2.5", to fit smaller frames? On the website there is these options only:
> - 267 x 89 mm / 10.5 x 3.5"
> - 241 x 76 mm / 9.5 x 3.0"
> - 222 x 70 mm / 8.75 x 2.75"


unfortunately that is all we have in that shock for now. I'll be talking to our head office about different sizes at Interbike though. I want to see a slope specific rear shock


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> When will the 350 NCR Ti be available? weeks or months?


As of Interbike we will have them in stock and ready to sell. we actually have them in the warehouse now.


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> As of Interbike we will have them in stock and ready to sell. we actually have them in the warehouse now.


Point me in the right direction please - 1 US dealer said three months, 1 German dealer said 7 - 8 weeks.

I want to purchase NOW. Your online shop isn't up and running.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Chromagftw said:


> Point me in the right direction please - 1 US dealer said three months, 1 German dealer said 7 - 8 weeks.
> 
> I want to purchase NOW. Your online shop isn't up and running.


have your local shop call us and ask for Mat:
1800-227-5579


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

Much appreciated mate. Details have been passed along.



Marzocchi_USA said:


> have your local shop call us and ask for Mat:
> 1800-227-5579


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

word up 



Chromagftw said:


> Much appreciated mate. Details have been passed along.


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## Fat Urkel (May 9, 2013)

I like the expresso coating. Cool color!


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Really excited about the adjustability and the weight of the 053 S3C2R. They are quoting 300g for the 215 length so it'll be real interesting to see the largest size shock on a scale.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

PHeller said:


> Really excited about the adjustability and the weight of the 053 S3C2R. They are quoting 300g for the 215 length so it'll be real interesting to see the largest size shock on a scale.


I'm getting 324 grams with standard 22.2 mm hardware and bushings installed on each end. Using my Park desktop scale with a weak battery.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Nice, that's lighter than a Fox Float X (365g) without hardware and bushing. I estimate (though I'm not certain) the Monarch Plus Debonair is around 370g or so in similar sizes without hardware and 388g with.

It might be the lightest reservoir shock on the market.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

sweet! I don't have any of our competition's products here (other than a Fox Float CTD) to weigh in and compare. all that is done at our office in Italy.



PHeller said:


> Nice, that's lighter than a Fox Float X (365g) without hardware and bushing. I estimate (though I'm not certain) the Monarch Plus Debonair is around 370g or so in similar sizes without hardware and 388g with.
> 
> It might be the lightest reservoir shock on the market.


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Do you know how much the NCR cartridge will cost?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I haven't seen the pricing for the spare parts yet. Mat will have them however if you email him next week when we get back from interbike:

[email protected]



fr0sty125 said:


> Do you know how much the NCR cartridge will cost?


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## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

Hey Marzocchi_USA,
Big thanks for all the info on the new forks! 
Do you have any more details on the 350 NCR Ti, the details on the website are a little vague. 
Specifically I was wondering if it really does have a “lockout/pedal mode" if you will?
I have been running a 66 Ti for the last 2 years and while its pure brilliance on the downs is faultless it’s a bit of a dog on the climbs  also somewhat of a boat anchor at times 
I’ve tried many air forks and found them all to be wanting in comparison with a coil fork, however yet to find a coil fork which would offer handy things such as lockout.
Also ask the guys at interbike to take some more photos of said fork would be great 
Thanks!


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## snax001 (Sep 13, 2014)

How does the vanilla 'r' model compare to the others in the line up? Is it possible to upgrade the internals of the 'r' to the 'ncr'?


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

phat-ant said:


> Do you have any more details on the 350 NCR Ti, the details on the website are a little vague.
> Specifically I was wondering if it really does have a "lockout/pedal mode" if you will?


Not a complete lockout but rather a firm up dial. Scroll 1/3 of the way down:

First Look: What?s new in the Wide Open warehouse | Spoke Magazine


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

The NCR Ti (and NCR and the 320 LCR models) all use an IFP system inside the cartridge that senses the difference between pedal input (generally a slow, undulation push) vrs ride input (faster vibrations or sudden big movements such as drops, rocks, etc..) this system saves acts as a soft lockout to isolate pedal forces while climbing or otherwise when not using the actual lockout (the Ti uses a fork mounted lockout while the NCR Air uses a bar mounted lockout). In both regards the lockout is gated and will blow off with a hard enough hit.

Weight on the two is: 4.7lbs Ti, 4.23lbs Air. I posted some more photos of the Ti on our Facebook page during the show.

hope that helped, let me know if you have other questions.

cheers!

DM



phat-ant said:


> Hey Marzocchi_USA,
> Big thanks for all the info on the new forks!
> Do you have any more details on the 350 NCR Ti, the details on the website are a little vague.
> Specifically I was wondering if it really does have a "lockout/pedal mode" if you will?
> ...


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

A Vanilla R would mostly compare to our 350 R model. A fixed compression, air sprung with rebound adjustment. The cartridges can be swapped for an NCR but you would need a bunch of parts with it. I'd just do the 350 CR and call it a day, its a solid fork for a good price with compression and rebound adjustments.



snax001 said:


> How does the vanilla 'r' model compare to the others in the line up? Is it possible to upgrade the internals of the 'r' to the 'ncr'?


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

There is a full lockout lever on the NCR models and the lockout has a preset blowoff



Chromagftw said:


> Not a complete lockout but rather a firm up dial. Scroll 1/3 of the way down:
> 
> First Look: What?s new in the Wide Open warehouse | Spoke Magazine


----------



## snax001 (Sep 13, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> A Vanilla R would mostly compare to our 350 R model. A fixed compression, air sprung with rebound adjustment. The cartridges can be swapped for an NCR but you would need a bunch of parts with it. I'd just do the 350 CR and call it a day, its a solid fork for a good price with compression and rebound adjustments.


Thanks for the response. Having a marzocchi representative on a user forum is a real asset.

The reason I ask is because a 2015 bike comes with the 350r as OEM and I wanted to know what the options were aftermarket (when I said "vanilla r" I meant the 350r as opposed to the 350cr by I realise I strayed into fox's branding).

After I wrote my original post, I realised I haven't ridden on anything but marzocchis for 15 years! Legendary reliability that I never noticed and completely took for granted.

'98 Z1 BAMs on my single speed Specialized and Z1 drop offs on my 01 rm6! They are both still going strong and coping with my crappy riding.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Thanks, I do my best. Which bike does that 350R come on?

the R model is a no nonsense fork with an air spring, fixed compression and a nice, rebound system (same rebound as our CR models).



snax001 said:


> Thanks for the response. Having a marzocchi representative on a user forum is a real asset.
> 
> The reason I ask is because a 2015 bike comes with the 350r as OEM and I wanted to know what the options were aftermarket (when I said "vanilla r" I meant the 350r as opposed to the 350cr by I realise I strayed into fox's branding).
> 
> ...


----------



## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

Hey DM,

Big thanks for the extra photos on facebook, I've just checked them out and it’s looking fantastic!

Many thanks for the information about the lockout, it sounds about right for my needs, basically long pedally road/gravel tracks to the trail heads by me and the current 66's i get about 40mm of bob when seated! so something a bit firmer would be great.

I hope that they make a UK Appearance soon! I will get in touch with my dealer to see if they can put in an order asap.

Keep up the good work!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

thanks and very welcome.

hit up SOLENT UK LTD. T/A WINDWAVE 
Service Center
United Kingdom
Units D2-D3 - Heritage Business Park - Heritage Way - Gosport Hants PO12 4BG
Phone: +44 (0)23 92521912
Fax: +44 (0)23 92522625
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: Windwave : Home
Distributor/Service center for: Ireland, United Kingdom they should have stock by now I imagine. Most of our distributors are receiving product by now


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## snax001 (Sep 13, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Thanks, I do my best. Which bike does that 350R come on?
> 
> the R model is a no nonsense fork with an air spring, fixed compression and a nice, rebound system (same rebound as our CR models).


The fork is OEM on a commencal 2015 enduro hardtail. All in all a very nice package.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

very cool!



snax001 said:


> The fork is OEM on a commencal 2015 enduro hardtail. All in all a very nice package.


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## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

Thanks for the details DM,
I have made contact with Windwave and they say they should be expecting stock in 2 weeks of the Ti model and they will retail for £999.99 :O gulp hehe.
I better get raiding the piggy bank!


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I never said the Ti model was going to be inexpensive 



phat-ant said:


> Thanks for the details DM,
> I have made contact with Windwave and they say they should be expecting stock in 2 weeks of the Ti model and they will retail for £999.99 :O gulp hehe.
> I better get raiding the piggy bank!


----------



## randan (May 18, 2005)

@Marzocchi_USA: when will the 053 S3C2R shock be available? Thank you in advance.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I am told we will have them in stock by March, 2015. very welcome in advance 



randan said:


> @Marzocchi_USA: when will the 053 S3C2R shock be available? Thank you in advance.


----------



## randan (May 18, 2005)

Thank you!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

very welcome 



randan said:


> Thank you!


----------



## YodaForce (Sep 11, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> very welcome


What is the cost of the 053 S3C2R shock

Thanks


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

looking at $339.00 USD retail



YodaForce said:


> What is the cost of the 053 S3C2R shock
> 
> Thanks


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> looking at $339.00 USD retail


curious to see what kind of reviews it gets, but with that kind of pricing you're going to crush the market if it sees praise from testers.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

yep, that's the plan. I had to triple check that price myself too! Hopefully I'll get some in here I can send out to magazines like Bike and Dirt Rag for some real testing.



babyz said:


> curious to see what kind of reviews it gets, but with that kind of pricing you're going to crush the market if it sees praise from testers.


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> From what I was told the Slick Honey just breaks down and will clog the valves in our forks. the stuff that was inside our forks was a special assembly lube that is formulated to break down into oil and be assimilated into the fork oil.
> 
> True about the unlubed fork causing stiction and some lube is better than none so for sure once you ride it a while if you run into any issues call our tech dept straight away.
> 
> If you just used a little at the dust seals it should be ok for now but eventually it (might) break down into the oil and get gummed up inside everything because of the DBC system.


My 350 NCR Ti fork has been ordered and should be getting it next week. Can you suggest several safe alternatives to Slick Honey for lubricating the dust seals and stanchions?


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## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

Hey Chromagftw,

Looking forward to a user review on this one for sure! 

Post up some pics when you get it bolted to your ride please 

I'm still in saving mode atm :<

shame the new shock isnt out until March, but thats a very attractive price for sure.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

sweet deal!

we use a lube called Molykote number 55 for o-rings



Chromagftw said:


> My 350 NCR Ti fork has been ordered and should be getting it next week. Can you suggest several safe alternatives to Slick Honey for lubricating the dust seals and stanchions?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

agreed, I'd like to hear a user's view of the fork too.



phat-ant said:


> Hey Chromagftw,
> 
> Looking forward to a user review on this one for sure!
> 
> ...


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## Guest (Oct 2, 2014)

if one was wanting to match up the 053 S3C2R shock with a single crown fork(AIR SPRING) which would be recommended??


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

it is designed to match up with the 350 series forks ideally the NCR or CR (for an air fork) the name of the shock is a play on the 350 .. 053.. 350/053. .. front/back.. I know, it is a reach but I didn't name it 



nvphatty said:


> if one was wanting to match up the 053 S3C2R shock with a single crown fork(AIR SPRING) which would be recommended??


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## Guest (Oct 2, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> it is designed to match up with the 350 series forks ideally the NCR or CR (for an air fork) the name of the shock is a play on the 350 .. 053.. 350/053. .. front/back.. I know, it is a reach but I didn't name it


a reach indeed but understand the nomenclature thank you kindly....me thinks.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

very welcome



nvphatty said:


> a reach indeed but understand the nomenclature thank you kindly....me thinks.


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

Still riding the heck out of my 29'er Micro Ti... There was nothing else out there like it that plush. A little heavy, but it had the oil bath that made it dampen so luxurious without the stiction so many air forks are stuck with. Flat out love it on my old Niner WFO. Some day, it will be a classic, right along side the RC3 micro.


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## mcozzy29 (Oct 6, 2014)

I'm was looking to get a 350 ncr in the UK, but have been advised the lockout remote is standard and cannot be removed & replaced with crown mounted lever?
This sounds crazy, who on earth want another cable on their bars for a remote fork lockout?
Certainly not me, or anyone I ride with.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

HAHA! yeah I agree with you there, the less I have on my bar the better. The NCR (air with remote) will be able to have a form mounted lever installed, the physical lockout portion of the fork is the same, it just uses a different top mechanism to engage the lockout.

I can not speak to our UK distributors but in the US we will be carrying the replacement parts for both forks in tern allowing the remote to be swapped over for the lever. I have seen NCR Air forks with the lever and NCR Ti forks with the remote so I know they are interchangeable.

The parts are not available just yet but will be soon.



mcozzy29 said:


> I'm was looking to get a 350 ncr in the UK, but have been advised the lockout remote is standard and cannot be removed & replaced with crown mounted lever?
> This sounds crazy, who on earth want another cable on their bars for a remote fork lockout?
> Certainly not me, or anyone I ride with.


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## mcozzy29 (Oct 6, 2014)

Hi and thanks for responding, I was hoping you would!

Its frustrating that they fitted this as standard, I really cannot comprehend the thought process behind this decision, but am pleased it seems I will be able to purchase the parts and swap to a conventional lever in the near future. I am hoping this will be a simple & cheap job I can do at home?
As this fork is so new, there are no decent reviews or any useful tech information on the web, so it feels like a bit of a leap of faith in choosing this fork something as well known as the pike, especially when the 350 ncr is nearly $400 more in this country over the rockshox.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I hear you 100%. All of us here in the US gave our recommendation that all forks should have a lever lockout and offer the remote as an upgrade option but it seems that wasn't the case.

It is my understanding that the NCR Ti has the lever lockout to keep the weight down and the NCR Air uses the remote because it is the lighter of the two NCR models already.

No worries about the swap of parts, that should not be an issue. I have done that conversion myself here with some prototype models and it was cake.

No full reviews are out yet (that I have seen). There are some prototype models that made their way around the Internets however but the reviews (if any) for that fork will be different from anything production.

Have you contacted Windwave in the UK yet? They are our distributor there and should be able to get you local info or direct you to a shop that may even have one of the NCR models in stock. That $400 increase over a Pike is a lot! what model Pike is this being compared to? the NCR is a best in class fork and should only be compared against others in the same category, but that does seem steep to me. the NCR air retails for $959 here in the US and the Pike RCT3 retails between $800 and $1000. Granted the Espresso coated stanchions cost more than a standard anodize procedure as it is more than just a coloring but a hardening process as well that leaves the stanchions as smooth as glass.



mcozzy29 said:


> Hi and thanks for responding, I was hoping you would!
> 
> Its frustrating that they fitted this as standard, I really cannot comprehend the thought process behind this decision, but am pleased it seems I will be able to purchase the parts and swap to a conventional lever in the near future. I am hoping this will be a simple & cheap job I can do at home?
> As this fork is so new, there are no decent reviews or any useful tech information on the web, so it feels like a bit of a leap of faith in choosing this fork something as well known as the pike, especially when the 350 ncr is nearly $400 more in this country over the rockshox.


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## mcozzy29 (Oct 6, 2014)

approx $874 for the RTC3 solo & $1285 for the NCR in the UK, although the shop are doing me a deal at $1125 as I'm buying a frame from them. 
If they cant help I will give Windwave a shout, thanks for the help!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

ouch! that is expensive! Are you looking to get the Ti or the Air?



mcozzy29 said:


> approx $874 for the RTC3 solo & $1285 for the NCR in the UK, although the shop are doing me a deal at $1125 as I'm buying a frame from them.
> If they cant help I will give Windwave a shout, thanks for the help!


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## mcozzy29 (Oct 6, 2014)

Thats the air. The ti is $1600, but I dont want a coil spring as my weight fluctuates too much!


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> looking at $339.00 USD retail


is it to still 339 dollars? Because in one german shop there´s a preorder price of 599 EUROS= 756 Dollars! :-( so almost double the price


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## wilks (Jan 15, 2004)

Why do people insist on trying to convert pounds to dollars or euros to dollars it's irrelevant. Exchange rates fluctuate. in the US we pay around 7 to 10% in sales tax depending on the state and no sales tax on Internet purchases. Whats VAT in the UK 19%? Additionally to my annoyance every price quoted in the US is excluding sales tax. I bought a bos Deville from Austria and did not have to pay any VAT on it. As I brought it to the US


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

wilks said:


> Why do people insist on trying to convert pounds to dollars or euros to dollars it's irrelevant. Exchange rates fluctuate. in the US we pay around 7 to 10% in sales tax depending on the state and no sales tax on Internet purchases. Whats VAT in the UK 19%? Additionally to my annoyance every price quoted in the US is excluding sales tax. I bought a bos Deville from Austria and did not have to pay any VAT on it. As I brought it to the US


Look carefully at the issue before talking.the euro is stronger then the dollar.thus it is already more expensive when the shock was sold for the same amount of euros as in dollars. And that is usually the case.santa cruz nomad frame mrrsp is around 2900-3000 dollars, right? In germany it is 2900-3200 euros..almost never more and if so then only a few percents.so lets say it would rise from 339 dollars to 400 euros, which would already be extreme.but never up to 600 euros. So I had a good reason to ask if 339 dollars for the 053 shock is still up to date ;-)


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

what's the axle to crown height of the 350?
and is there a choice of springs for the Titanium?


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

savo said:


> what's the axle to crown height of the 350?
> and is there a choice of springs for the Titanium?


and I have a 3rd question:

what's the fork offset?


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## mcozzy29 (Oct 6, 2014)

Its a shame this info is not on the marzocchi site isnt it. Its utter madness, the fork is a current, admittedly very new product, yet there is no info. Someone deserves to wake up with a horses head in their bed!
Despite *marzocchi_us* being most helpful, I ultimately ordered the x-fusion metric & am having it reduced to 160mm.


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

Just ordered a 350NCR and will be lowering it to 150mm as soon as I get it. I was told the lowers oil volumes are what they are to keep initial weights low. Since I care about performance more I will be putting around 50cc of oil in there to make sure it splashes around and lubes everything. One thing I was wondering about though is if you can't use slick honey, which is the same as slickoleum what should the seals be lubed with when being taken apart? Or should I just use a light coat of slickoleum?


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

*Mr_X40*: Molykote number 55


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

I got an answer from Marzocchi Italia about height and offset:

Axle to crown: 557mm
Offset: 40


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## alexiskon (Jan 4, 2012)

What do you guys think about the r version?

http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?LN=UK&idC=1593&IdFolder=113&IdOggetto=20310

I have a giant trance 3 27.5 whith the stock Rock Shox Sektor fork in front but i have changed the back with a Monarch Plus RC3.

I'm considering the weight of the 350r cause i do a lot of pedal, would you think it will be a problem? 
Is it a more dh oriented fork?

Thank you !


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

The 350 R is not an heavy fork and I don't think it could be considered a DH oriented fork.

@Marzocchi_USA can the R damper be upgraded to a CR one? A coil CR would be a very nice option in between the R and the (so much expensive) NCR


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

savo said:


> I got an answer from Marzocchi Italia about height and offset:
> 
> Axle to crown: 557mm
> Offset: 40


Can any one tell me which is the impact, on riding, of the Offset of 40 in the NCR vs a Pike that has 0 offset? I have a Nomad 27.5 with Pike and Monarch plus RCT3, but I am tempted on changing both for Marzocchi


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

artishouk said:


> Can any one tell me which is the impact, on riding, of the Offset of 40 in the NCR vs a Pike that has 0 offset? I have a Nomad 27.5 with Pike and Monarch plus RCT3, but I am tempted on changing both for Marzocchi


27.5 Pikes have a 42mm offset.

2 mm makes little to no difference.

by the way, the Marzocchi's 40mm offset is probably the shortest of the 650b enduro forks out there. The largest one is the Lefty's at 50mm.


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## alexiskon (Jan 4, 2012)

Is it possible to run the r version at 150mm?

I think it's a bargain, 35mm stancions, 160 travel, 15mm axle, the only think that i am thinking of is the weight


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

Got my fork today. I took it apart to lower it to 150mm because it comes at 160 from the box. I havent had a chance to ride it on the trails yet because of bad weather but on the street and on some grass it felt great. I cant comment on handling but in the small bumps it was very smooth and responsive even though its not broken in at all.

Quality seems to be very good on it, both looks and feels. The knobs feel solid and are nicely made from aluminum. One thing though is the compression knob is tight to turn and turns the lockout lever when initially turned. Ive been playing with it and it seems to free up a bit. Not a big deal but though it was worth mentioning.

When I took it apart i noticed the lowers had lots of grease inside but no oil pretty much. I will be filling both sides with around 50ml of oil to make sure everything is lubed when i ride. Also used some of the excess grease inside to lube the seals when putting it back together. I noticed after a few compressions all the grease got pushed out. I pretty much packed all the gaps in the seals. These seals have an inner part and an outer scraper, no foam rings. I think next time i will put a very light coat on the inside just for putting the lowers on and the oil will lube it when i ride. This is unlike what ive been doing with past rock shox and fox forks.

The fork is lowered by taking the little bumper off the bottom of the negative spring and putting a spacer between it and the spring. The aluminum rod has a small metal washer on the end of it that looks to be pressed on. It pulls off by hand with quite a bit of force but no tools should be needed. After that its like every other fork.

I also noticed marzocchi uses a tube inside the stanchion for the air spring. This is good because if you want to try coil then you can go back to air spring. Other forks where the piston runs inside the stanchion if you run coil it will scuff up the inside and you cant run air again. Since this takes up volume it looks like marzocchi used a smaller negative spring so the piston sits lower in the leg increasing the volume.

Another small thing i like about it is the bottom bolts use orings to seal the oil in the lowers. Fox and rock shox uses plastic crush washers which are a pain to reuse and i hate them because they dont thread on easy after. This system is much better for repeated disassembly.

Another small thing, the air piston uses a u cup seal and a foam ring underneath. Fox did this in the 2012 float forks and the oil migrated into the air chamber and the fork wouldnt get full travel. I will have to ride this and see if it gives me trouble. If it does i might convert it to coil if they make a spring for my weight.

Here are some pics from when i took it apart and it mounted to my lapierre zesty. Steertube is long while i figure out a good height.


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

A couple more things i forgot. This fork was supposed to come with a remote for lockout. Mine came with a manual lever which i wanted but i didnt ask for it. This fork also doesnt come with a travel ring on the stanchion, but its easy enough to slide one on.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Cool deal, thanks for that. Technically the travel change is supposed to only be done by a trained service center to make sure all steps are followed properly and parts placed in order correctly. We do use a liberal amount of assembly grease in the forks so extra spewage is normal after a disassembly. 
When adding the oil do it once the fork is assembled and pour it through the foot nut hole into the bottom. aprox 25cc in each leg provided no oil is spilled from the cartridge during disassembly. If you do disassemble it again use Molykote # 55 for O-Rings to lube the seals before installation, you can mix the Molykote with fork oil also to get a lighter consistency. 
The knobs will be tight at first but should free up as they are used.

Where did the fork come from? I only ask because we are not selling the NCR with the lever lockout here in the US, only with the remote. We have a few in stock so you may be one of the very few that will get this fork.

cheers!

DM



Mr_X40 said:


> Got my fork today. I took it apart to lower it to 150mm because it comes at 160 from the box. I havent had a chance to ride it on the trails yet because of bad weather but on the street and on some grass it felt great. I cant comment on handling but in the small bumps it was very smooth and responsive even though its not broken in at all.
> 
> Quality seems to be very good on it, both looks and feels. The knobs feel solid and are nicely made from aluminum. One thing though is the compression knob is tight to turn and turns the lockout lever when initially turned. Ive been playing with it and it seems to free up a bit. Not a big deal but though it was worth mentioning.
> 
> ...


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

The fork is from the first shipment to canada i believe. And i worked on quite a bit of suspension before and do all my own service. Im not too big on how much service costs so i learned how to do everything myself. I am also a mechanic at a shop and we service all kind of suspension there.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> and I have a 3rd question:
> 
> what's the fork offset?


Axle to crown is 529.7mm
No options for Ti coils, we just use the air preload on it and between it and the compression adjustability it should work for the majority of riders out there. Optional spring weights may be forthcoming however.

offset is 24mm from the center of the fork blades, 40mm rake from the center of the steer tube


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I am not going to defend our site. I agree it isn't as helpful as the Fox or XFusion sites but it is something we are working on. We try to keep too much information from going public and having something be serviced wrong because of that and in turn voiding someones warranty.



mcozzy29 said:


> Its a shame this info is not on the marzocchi site isnt it. Its utter madness, the fork is a current, admittedly very new product, yet there is no info. Someone deserves to wake up with a horses head in their bed!
> Despite *marzocchi_us* being most helpful, I ultimately ordered the x-fusion metric & am having it reduced to 160mm.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

sweet deal, I was just curious.

hope you enjoy it! 



Mr_X40 said:


> The fork is from the first shipment to canada i believe. And i worked on quite a bit of suspension before and do all my own service. Im not too big on how much service costs so i learned how to do everything myself. I am also a mechanic at a shop and we service all kind of suspension there.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

I'm thinking about an 053 S3C2R shock once they're released, but do you need to order them with specific tunes? Fox and Rockshox both have various tune options (e.g. Rockshox's "H/M/L" compression and rebound tunes), so I'm just curious. Will there be options for custom valving through you guys?


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Oh and aside from the crappy plastic rebound knob on the CR, is there any difference in the rebound circuit between the CR and NCR?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

"One tune to rule them all" ... mostly.

we will only sell them with one built in tune but we will offer custom valving in house for a fee that is TBD. The adjustment rage on the shocks is so wide we felt needing to offer different base tunes was unnecessary, plus the internals are re-valvable, though not by the end user as they need to be done in a vacuum and are optimized for nitrogen charges (they work fine with standard air but optimal with Nitro).



babyz said:


> I'm thinking about an 053 S3C2R shock once they're released, but do you need to order them with specific tunes? Fox and Rockshox both have various tune options (e.g. Rockshox's "H/M/L" compression and rebound tunes), so I'm just curious. Will there be options for custom valving through you guys?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

LOL!

the internal circuitry is not 100% dissimilar. The CR circuitry is more basic, less shims and valves but the same concept.



babyz said:


> Oh and aside from the crappy plastic rebound knob on the CR, is there any difference in the rebound circuit between the CR and NCR?


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

I have a Titus El Guapo with a Marzocchi 55CR Switch (170-130) fork and a Monarch RT3 shock which I swap with a Fox Coil RHX 4.0 in extreme rocky conditions.
I'm pretty happy with the setup but I think I need something more than the monarch so I was going for the Roco Air TST R just before I saw the 053 S3C2R!
Are they for the same use? I mean can they take the same hit???


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Hello there. Have you triple checked the price yet?
Because below I read around $600! I really hope YOU are correct!!

Marzocchi Suspension - Eurobike 2014 - Pinkbike



Marzocchi_USA said:


> yep, that's the plan. I had to triple check that price myself too! Hopefully I'll get some in here I can send out to magazines like Bike and Dirt Rag for some real testing.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

George Gr said:


> I have a Titus El Guapo with a Marzocchi 55CR Switch (170-130) fork and a Monarch RT3 shock which I swap with a Fox Coil RHX 4.0 in extreme rocky conditions.
> I'm pretty happy with the setup but I think I need something more than the monarch so I was going for the Roco Air TST R just before I saw the 053 S3C2R!
> Are they for the same use? I mean can they take the same hit???


very much sir.

The TSTr is our first generation trail/enduro shock and it is highly adaptable and capable of just about anything but the new 053 is all that the TSTr has but with a wider range of adjustments. It was specifically designed for the needs of pro world enduro athletes so it will easily make for a fantastic aggressive trail riding shock.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

George Gr said:


> Hello there. Have you triple checked the price yet?
> Because below I read around $600! I really hope YOU are correct!!
> 
> Marzocchi Suspension - Eurobike 2014 - Pinkbike


100% correct. the MSRP of the 053 S3C2R is $339.00 USD and the MSRP for the 023 S3cr is $341.00 USD. knocking it out of the ball park! Add to this that the 053 is the lightest piggyback air shock on the market also.


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

This is surprising they are retailing at a lot more in the UK...

Marzocchi 2015 053 S3C2R


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> 100% correct. the MSRP of the 053 S3C2R is $339.00 USD and the MSRP for the 023 S3cr is $341.00 USD. knocking it out of the ball park! Add to this that the 053 is the lightest piggyback air shock on the market also.


So be prepared to get a number of order from european customers...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

It doesn't surprise me they would cost more in the UK given the exchange rates worldwide. I can only speak to what goes on here in the US.



fr0sty125 said:


> This is surprising they are retailing at a lot more in the UK...
> 
> Marzocchi 2015 053 S3C2R


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

I am sure we will get a lot of inquiries but the way our structure is set up we don't sell direct and can't sell to anyone outside the US unless there is a legitimate need and the person has no access to a distributor or retailer. I expect all of our US retailers to get a lot of requests, I believe some of them sell internationally.



savo said:


> So be prepared to get a number of order from european customers...


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> very much sir.
> 
> The TSTr is our first generation trail/enduro shock and it is highly adaptable and capable of just about anything but the new 053 is all that the TSTr has but with a wider range of adjustments. It was specifically designed for the needs of pro world enduro athletes so it will easily make for a fantastic aggressive trail riding shock.


I am very happy to hear that!
And with 183gr less!!
So 053 it is. All I have to do is wait for it to make it on the stores.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

George Gr said:


> I am very happy to hear that!
> And with 183gr less!!
> So 053 it is. All I have to do is wait for it to make it on the stores.


aaaannnd... let the waiting commence!


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

fr0sty125 said:


> This is surprising they are retailing at a lot more in the UK...
> 
> Marzocchi 2015 053 S3C2R


The rrp looks like an arse pull on somebody's part (perhaps Windwave), rrp is more than double the US price!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Fix the Spade said:


> The rrp looks like an arse pull on somebody's part (perhaps Windwave), rrp is more than double the US price!


I can't speak to the UK but it could be import taxes are higher maybe?


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## wilks (Jan 15, 2004)

All US prices don't include sales tax. The uk equivalent of that is vat and I believe the uk quoted prices will include vat. Which is 20% I believe.


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Well I can purchase from a US dealer pay shipping cost and all the UK import duties and still come out £100/$160 cheaper if I decide to get one I know where to look!


For comparison CCDB Inline US MRSP $550 UK RRP £360 ($568) pretty close considering that UK RRP actually includes a 20% sales tax.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

May be it is a dumb question, but I have to ask it. Would 053 S3C2R fit into GT Sensor/Force 2014 frame? 

Also is there any difference between 2014 350CR and 2015 350CR except the Gold Race coating? And is there any possibility to upgrade later internals of the CR to NCR ones?


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

graved1gger said:


> May be it is a dumb question, but I have to ask it. Would 053 S3C2R fit into GT Sensor/Force 2014 frame?
> 
> Also is there any difference between 2014 350CR and 2015 350CR except the Gold Race coating? And is there any possibility to upgrade later internals of the CR to NCR ones?


053 will come in the following eye to eye sizes:

- 222 x 70 mm / 8.75 x 2.75"
- 216 x 63.5 mm / 8.5 x 2.5"
- 200 x 57 mm / 7.88 x 2.25"
- 200 x 51 mm / 7.88 x 2.0"
- 190.5 x 51 mm / 7.5 x 2.0"

If one of them suits you then you're good to go!


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

7.5 x 2.0" should fit in theory but it is not the e2e size I'm worried about, it is more about the actual dimensions of the shock.
Look at this post http://forums.mtbr.com/gt/2014-gt-sensor-force-27-5-a-860406-7.html#post11400575 here Float X barely fits into the frame.



George Gr said:


> 053 will come in the following eye to eye sizes:
> 
> - 222 x 70 mm / 8.75 x 2.75"
> - 216 x 63.5 mm / 8.5 x 2.5"
> ...


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

I understand what you mean... 
That's another issue. I don't think I can help you...


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## MadcowPL (Jul 1, 2009)

Hi,

I'm having problems choosing between 350 NCR and NCR TI - how big is the difference (if there is any)? I know that the latter has just become available but maybe somebody has ridden them both already?

Cheers,
Maciek


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Wondered if anyone could explain why this streak like wear is appearing on stanchions that are less than 4 months old.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> May be it is a dumb question, but I have to ask it. Would 053 S3C2R fit into GT Sensor/Force 2014 frame?
> 
> Also is there any difference between 2014 350CR and 2015 350CR except the Gold Race coating? And is there any possibility to upgrade later internals of the CR to NCR ones?


Not a dumb question, I ride a 2014 Force myself and wanted to know also. I bolted a sample up to it and it fits fine, no worries.

The only difference between the 2014 and 2015 350 CR is the graphics and the stanchion coating. the natural coating is less expensive to produce also so the 2015 will cost a little less. It is possible to upgrade the internals to an NCR or even upgrade the uppers with the espresso stanchions if you wanted.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> Wondered if anyone could explain why this streak like wear is appearing on stanchions that are less than 4 months old.
> 
> View attachment 935098


Please email me:

[email protected] and we can figure that out.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

MadcowPL said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm having problems choosing between 350 NCR and NCR TI - how big is the difference (if there is any)? I know that the latter has just become available but maybe somebody has ridden them both already?
> 
> ...


The differences are very little. The largest one will be for the compression lockout. The Ti has the fork mounted unit and the air uses the remote (both are retrofit-able). I have ridden both and actually think the air feels plusher (but I am not a fan of remotes since I don't use them that often). The coil is great for long, sustained events and really rough trails where the air is ever so slightly more of a "trail" fork, if that makes sense. I'd take both down the Whole Enchilada but if I was going to rock a bike park the the majority of my riding I'd go coil.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> 7.5 x 2.0" should fit in theory but it is not the e2e size I'm worried about, it is more about the actual dimensions of the shock.
> Look at this post http://forums.mtbr.com/gt/2014-gt-sensor-force-27-5-a-860406-7.html#post11400575 here Float X barely fits into the frame.


I was rocking the 190.5x51 053 shock on my 2014 Force and it fit perfect and worked great with the design of the bike, no worries at all.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> Wondered if anyone could explain why this streak like wear is appearing on stanchions that are less than 4 months old.


Wow, and I just was considering buying 2014 350CR (there are a few great deals on them) and now I am a bit worried...


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> Wow, and I just was considering buying 2014 350CR (there are a few great deals on them) and now I a bit worried...


Same to me, and there was also a problem with the Gold coating as well as I´ve read on other forums...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> Wow, and I just was considering buying 2014 350CR (there are a few great deals on them) and now I am a bit worried...


That is the first time I've seen this with the GRC Coating. I wouldn't worry about it at all as if something like that (for some reason) comes up the fork is warrantied for 2 years and if this does happen (especially in the first few months) that is a warranty issue no question.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

artishouk said:


> Same to me, and there was also a problem with the Gold coating as well as I´ve read on other forums...


What other forums? Please let me know so I can find them and let them, I'd appreciate it.

-DM


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> What other forums? Please let me know so I can find them and let them, I'd appreciate it.
> 
> -DM


Hi, I read it on the Pinkbike " Ask Marzocchi anything". Someone named "Auditore" had the same issue (maybe is the same person). Also "Tomdh" had problems on a 888. And MarzocchiMTB replies as if they were aware of that issue.

Any way, your concern, speed and willingness to reply are much appreciated! Great asset from Marzocchi!


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

artishouk said:


> Hi, I read it on the Pinkbike " Ask Marzocchi anything". Someone named "Auditore" had the same issue (maybe is the same person). Also "Tomdh" had problems on a 888. And MarzocchiMTB replies as if they were aware of that issue.
> 
> Any way, your concern, speed and willingness to reply are much appreciated! Great asset from Marzocchi!


OK cool, thanks, I appreciate that a lot.

We are trying to regain everyone's faith. I know we had some issues in the past (we all recognize that) and want to rectify it with the best service we can and the best products we can to back that up. Basically getting us back to the level we were in the heyday!

Cheers!

-DM


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Well, speaking of the service. If I'll buy a fork in US from official Marzo dealer with official warranty and then take it home to Ukraine, will the warranty still be valid? And if somehing happens, I would need to send a fork back to the dealer I bought from or I could send it to the service center in, for example, Poland or Czech Republic?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> Well, speaking of the service. If I'll buy a fork in US from official Marzo dealer with official warranty and then take it home to Ukraine, will the warranty still be valid? And if somehing happens, I would need to send a fork back to the dealer I bought from or I could send it to the service center in, for example, Poland or Czech Republic?


TOTALLY!

you would just need to make sure you have your receipt and just contact one of these guys:

ANTONIN BARTONICEK 
Service Center
Czech Republic
SKLADOVA 20 - 32600 PLZEN
Phone: +42 0377240501
Fax: +42 0377448548
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: Bartoníèek - cyklistika, jízdní kola, cyklo shop, pøíslušenství, Marzocchi, Formula, MXM, OKBaby, Airbone, Vittoria, Sigma, IXS
Distributor/Service center for: Czech Republic, Ukraine
LEADER BIKE 
Service Center
Ukraine
Lagutenko 14 - 83086 Donetsk
Phone: +380622900634
Fax: +380623826168
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: Âåëîñèïåäû è àêñåññóàðû â Óêðàèíå :: Èíòåðíåò-ìàãàçèí Ëèäåð
Distributor/Service center for: Ukraine


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Awesome! Thanks.

FYI, service center in Donetsk, Ukraine, is out of business and it seems for long, due to the situation in that region.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> Awesome! Thanks.
> 
> FYI, service center in Donetsk, Ukraine, is out of business and it seems for long, due to the situation in that region.


very welcome sir,

I didn't make that connection until just now, I'll make sure our head office in Italy knows of that, though I am sure they do.

cheers!

-DM


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

graved1gger said:


> Wow, and I just was considering buying 2014 350CR (there are a few great deals on them) and now I am a bit worried...


looks like out of spec bushings... nothing serious, normal warranty case.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

syl3 said:


> looks like out of spec bushings... nothing serious, normal warranty case.


I can't say for sure from the photo but I would agree. Whatever the case is we will take care of it, just need to call in. no worries.


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Would this explain why when I got them there was extreme amount of stiction they didn't want to sag even when I ran pressures much lower than recommended. Even after many hours beding in they felt a bit knotchy as they went through there travel. My old RS are much plusher.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> Would this explain why when I got them there was extreme amount of stiction they didn't want to sag even when I ran pressures much lower than recommended. Even after mnay hours beding in they felt a bit knotchy as they went through there travel. My old RS are much plusher.


Yep, we can fix that, have you contacted our tech center? are you in the US?


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

No I'm in the UK so I guess I would need to speak to Windwave


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> No I'm in the UK so I guess I would need to speak to Windwave


for sure, They are officially Marzocchi UK so they can take care of it for you easily.


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## Sk8er07999 (May 12, 2008)

I am stoked on the new marz products and the way the company is moving. I've loved every marz product I've ever owned. The first being in the early 2000s until now with multiple 888s, 66s, 55s. Currently riding a 2014 888rc3 non-ti with the gold race coating and a roco WC air and couldn't be happier. I am definitely looking forward to a future enduro build using 350 and 053 parts. As well as a marz dropper post! 

I tried jumping ship once and hated it. I bought a boxxer rc, and a vivid shock and no matter what I did or tried I was never happy with either. Different springs, different oils, different grease in the seals/rings and still was unhappy with the performance and lack of small bump sensitivity. I also spent a small amount of time on a totebuyingI wasn't happy with that either. Bought the 888rc3 and right out of the box it has been amazing. Night and day difference over the boxxer. My future builds will always use marz bits. I've never had a warranty issue with marz where I've had to contact customer service but after reading through this thread I feel as though I would be promptly and professionally taken care of. Thanks Marzochi!


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I've just ordered 350CR, and I can say that Marzocchi_USA's posts was one of the main reasons I bought it.


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Had to use my old RS forks today and they were so **** compared to my 350 CR some of it may be dialing in the setup but they were so terrible I made some changes mid ride and it didn't help that much. Will do the same route tomorrow try and dial in the setup but I think I'm about to realise just how much better the 350 CRs are than RS Sektor RL.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> I've just ordered 350CR, and I can say that Marzocchi_USA's posts was one of the main reasons I bought it.


i've not ordered any but can mirror the reasoning behind the purchase.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> Had to use my old RS forks today and they were so **** compared to my 350 CR some of it may be dialing in the setup but they were so terrible I made some changes mid ride and it didn't help that much. Will do the same route tomorrow try and dial in the setup but I think I'm about to realise just how much better the 350 CRs are than RS Sektor RL.


I'm upgrading from even crappier Sektor TK, the one with steel legs and strange rebound damper. Hope 350CR will make a difference.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

Marzocchi Canada have equally awesome support, so you are covered wherever you live! I've never had such good and friendly service as these guys anywhere else.

I was looking to buy a 2015 053 rear shock to complement my 66 RC3 EVO and I was wondering : if I buy a 8.75x2.75" shock (my stock size), could I send it for a rebuild later and get it "internally shortened" to 8.5x2.5" when I get a new frame or to alter my frame's geometry ? It seems that nobody uses 8.75" anymore and most long travel frames that I'm looking for use 8.5x2.5" shocks.

Thanks!


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

I just ordered a 350 CR tonight. stoked!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sk8er07999 said:


> I am stoked on the new marz products and the way the company is moving. I've loved every marz product I've ever owned. The first being in the early 2000s until now with multiple 888s, 66s, 55s. Currently riding a 2014 888rc3 non-ti with the gold race coating and a roco WC air and couldn't be happier. I am definitely looking forward to a future enduro build using 350 and 053 parts. As well as a marz dropper post!
> 
> I tried jumping ship once and hated it. I bought a boxxer rc, and a vivid shock and no matter what I did or tried I was never happy with either. Different springs, different oils, different grease in the seals/rings and still was unhappy with the performance and lack of small bump sensitivity. I also spent a small amount of time on a totebuyingI wasn't happy with that either. Bought the 888rc3 and right out of the box it has been amazing. Night and day difference over the boxxer. My future builds will always use marz bits. I've never had a warranty issue with marz where I've had to contact customer service but after reading through this thread I feel as though I would be promptly and professionally taken care of. Thanks Marzochi!


Thanks for the kind words! Very appreciated


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

guim said:


> Marzocchi Canada have equally awesome support, so you are covered wherever you live! I've never had such good and friendly service as these guys anywhere else.
> 
> I was looking to buy a 2015 053 rear shock to complement my 66 RC3 EVO and I was wondering : if I buy a 8.75x2.75" shock (my stock size), could I send it for a rebuild later and get it "internally shortened" to 8.5x2.5" when I get a new frame or to alter my frame's geometry ? It seems that nobody uses 8.75" anymore and most long travel frames that I'm looking for use 8.5x2.5" shocks.
> 
> Thanks!


I can't speak to the ability to shorten it, I know we will be making the shock in both of those sizes and short stroking a shock is possible but I can't speak to the new models as of yet. I'm sure Naz and Alex in Canada can figure it out though, they are total gurus!


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

I've also ordered a 350 CR today! My first Marzocchi product.

I will be dropping them to 140mm, do they come included with the spacer?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Steve.E said:


> I've also ordered a 350 CR today! My first Marzocchi product.
> 
> I will be dropping them to 140mm, do they come included with the spacer?


They do come with the 10mm and 20mm spacers. Ideally we want us to do the work in them just in case something goes awry in the reassemble as technically the warranty is voided if the end user disassembles the fork. See if the shop you ordered it from can have us do the work before it ships. If not, ask your shop to do the work.

It is a very simple process but call it CYA insurance for yourself and let someone else do the work so the warranty won't be voided.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

MARZOCCHI _ USA, 

Here is the answer I got from the local bike shop and my question.

Answer, "We only do bicycles parts".

My question, "Can you give me a price & order me a pair of SKF seals for a 2014 Marzocchi 350 CR fork. This fork does not come factory with these seals but they fit. Part# 8507014/P"

I use to feel bad about bringing new parts I bought direct into a bike shop for installation. This is why I don't feel bad anymore and haven't for along time. Why should I educate them on product, pay retail + sales tax for them to turn right around and just mail order the part anyway? 

Can I just order the parts direct, skip this hassle and pay a fair but competitive price?


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Good review for the NCR.
Team Tested: The 2015 Marzocchi 350 NCR Fork | Enduro Mountainbike Magazine


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

Thanks! I'll call them.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

M1_joel said:


> MARZOCCHI _ USA,
> 
> Here is the answer I got from the local bike shop and my question.
> 
> ...


That's really lame on the part of the shop to turn away service (IMHO). as a journeyman, World Cup level mechanic who cut his teeth in shops and worked as a service director for a long time and as a former shop owner I don't understand that mentality. A shop should ALWAYS capitalize on labor and service, it should always be the bread and butter. Stay up with the times and offer all service, invest in your employees and train them on all services including suspension and disc brakes (something I see all to much NOT being done by shops). The future of all shops is in service and high dollar items like complete bikes and major accessory upgrades like wheels and suspension.

with so many online retailers able to offer killer pricing and not being able to offer any kind of service this is something every shop needs to embrace if they want to stay strong in this market. The best shops I know offer amazing service and actually stock very little accessory product outsider of the daily basics for low-mid range bikes.

I digress though.. I am sorry you had that experience. That is the loss on the part of the shop. Do you have other shops local to you that offer good service? We always offer in house service in the US and Canada and the UK


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Everyone in this forum.. we will be having a factory direct sale (in person only) at our facility in Long Beach. This will happen on November 22nd. I'll post the flyer soon, spread the word. We will be selling the remaining 2014 models only. All forks are brand new and all will have our 2-year warranty still.


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## lukam (Nov 5, 2014)

Hi,
I'm planing to upgrade the shock on my YT wicked. Now I have a custom shimmed rs RT3 HV and don't like the shock action because of the frames progressivity. I'm deciding between DBinline and the new marzocchi 053. I would like to have a linear spring rate as possible from the shock and I know the DBinline has a very linear spring rate without spacers installed. 
Does the new shock from Marzocchi have a linear coil like spring rate? Will there be some kind of volume spacers available?

Thanks!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

lukam said:


> Hi,
> I'm planing to upgrade the shock on my YT wicked. Now I have a custom shimmed rs RT3 HV and don't like the shock action because of the frames progressivity. I'm deciding between DBinline and the new marzocchi 053. I would like to have a linear spring rate as possible from the shock and I know the DBinline has a very linear spring rate without spacers installed.
> Does the new shock from Marzocchi have a linear coil like spring rate? Will there be some kind of volume spacers available?
> 
> Thanks!


Because of the fully adjustable nature of the 053 you shouldn't need to re shim it but that will be possible through one of our service centers, no worries. The shock works well with a variety of frame designs and because of the adjustablity it can be made more linear to go with your frame.

I have only ridden it on a GT Force so I can't speak to it personally on a YT but I believe we are working with YT in our Italy facility. The goal is to have this shock be a game changer for everyone and make it work on just about every frame in the market. I can't be sure about a volume spacer, I haven't heard if wee are making those for it or not.

That said we won't have it available to the public until March or April of 2015.


----------



## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

Finally got to ride the fork after being sick for a while. Only have about 5 hours on it and initially the seals were stiff but beginning to free up. I rode it on mostly xc type trails but with lots of brake bumps and fast turns and roots. The first thing I noticed tuning it is that no matter how much you weigh there will be a good low speed compression and rebound adjustment. The compression has 28 clicks and rebound close to that and each click makes an actual difference. Im also running slightly less air in the spring than the chart suggested but this depends on how long your stem is and how far you are over the bars. Im running a very short stem. 
The fork is very good over square edge hits and on deep brake bumps and the roots. It blows off very nicely and stays on the ground. Since the fork isnt broken in yet i can't comment on small bump sensitivity, but as of now i can't complain. And like the other reviews mention the fork does indeed stay up in the travel very nicely. I played with air pressures and low speed adjusters enough where the fork sits at proper sag, doesnt dive in corners and still gets full travel. Every 5psi seemed to make a difference and i was able to put more or less air and directly see what it did right away. Another thing I noticed about it is how consistent it seems to be. I found i gained confidence because I know I can rely on the fork because it always works the same. 

I havent tried a pike or a manitou except pressing on them in a parking lot but this fork doesn't leave me wanting more at the moment. It seems pretty good and Im expecting it to be even better after it breaks in.


----------



## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> They do come with the 10mm and 20mm spacers


Hiya, my fork didn't come with the spacers, what can I do about getting some please?

The fork looks great by the way, I haven't got a bike to test it on yet.


----------



## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> That said we won't have it available to the public until March or April of 2015.


Why that late?


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Steve.E said:


> Hiya, my fork didn't come with the spacers, what can I do about getting some please?
> 
> The fork looks great by the way, I haven't got a bike to test it on yet.


sure, just call in and get Mat in sales and let him know yours didn't have the spacers. The actual reduction service is technically supposed to be done by a service center or qualified shop (FYI) so if you do have the travel changed have a shop do it (despite its ease to do), that is just a CYA insurance for you.

800-227-5579


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

George Gr said:


> Why that late?


I don't have a solid answer other than some finalization in the production settings for the shims to make sure it is up to par with all the major frames on the market in terms of the right linear vrs progressive rate, etc..

Tooling is all done and they are ready to go, just refining the internals from what I'm told


----------



## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I don't have a solid answer other than some finalization in the production settings for the shims to make sure it is up to par with all the major frames on the market in terms of the right linear vrs progressive rate, etc..
> 
> Tooling is all done and they are ready to go, just refining the internals from what I'm told


Interesting...the shock is already listed on a few websites (e.g. PricePoint), which seems odd if it's still 4-5 months out.


----------



## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

babyz said:


> Interesting...the shock is already listed on a few websites (e.g. PricePoint), which seems odd if it's still 4-5 months out.


They are listed but they are out of stock. And the will be for long as I understand!


----------



## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I don't have a solid answer other than some finalization in the production settings for the shims to make sure it is up to par with all the major frames on the market in terms of the right linear vrs progressive rate, etc..
> 
> Tooling is all done and they are ready to go, just refining the internals from what I'm told


And I think it might be a good idea to see a few full reviews of the real thing tested in the field before we get it. Don't you think?


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Interesting...the shock is already listed on a few websites (e.g. PricePoint), which seems odd if it's still 4-5 months out.


yeah, I don't know. Probably to generate pre-orders. I see they are selling them (or a backorder at least) on a site in the UK. I'm pretty sure it is just to generate buzz for the product and secure back orders.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

George Gr said:


> And I think it might be a good idea to see a few full reviews of the real thing tested in the field before we get it. Don't you think?


I can't fault that logic.


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

I'm still unable to justify the EU price being more then twice the US one, for the 053...


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> I'm still unable to justify the EU price being more then twice the US one, for the 053...


yeah, I don't know about that one. With a fear of making enemies I'd personally just say if you have a friend here in the states buy one and just ship it over to you if you wanted to get one. it should save you a bit of quid for sure.


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

savo said:


> I'm still unable to justify the EU price being more then twice the US one, for the 053...


Some mysteries MUST remain unsolved!


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Hi Marzocchi USA, do you know if Marzocchi is planning to give the 035 with a remote? I think it´s way more useful in the shock than in the fork, specially for racing enduro, when some stages have significant pedal sections. In my experience you win more on firming up the shock than the fork in those situations, and as NCR comes with the remote, maybe 035 also does!
Thanks


----------



## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

Windwave are hooking me up with some spacers, great service


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

artishouk said:


> Hi Marzocchi USA, do you know if Marzocchi is planning to give the 035 with a remote? I think it´s way more useful in the shock than in the fork, specially for racing enduro, when some stages have significant pedal sections. In my experience you win more on firming up the shock than the fork in those situations, and as NCR comes with the remote, maybe 035 also does!
> Thanks


I haven't heard but I am sure they thought of it. I will ask and see. I know a lot of our enduro racers have custom lockouts on their rear shocks but they have been using Roco LO and Roco Lite models which are easy to modify with a remote and some McGuyvering.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Steve.E said:


> Windwave are hooking me up with some spacers, great service


NICE!

those guys are a class act for sure


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## Oppet (Jan 12, 2007)

Same Wear with mine stanchions as Frostys. Makes me think why they dropped this plating for 2015 models?!
Mine also makes noise from crown joints


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Oppet said:


> Same Wear with mine stanchions as Frostys. Makes me think why they dropped this plating for 2015 models?!
> Mine also makes noise from crown joints


I was told the reason we dropped the coating was because of cost so we can offer two different price points like Fox does with their Factory and Evolution lines.

Get that noise checked by a shop or service center, it could be the headset if it is for sure coming from the front of the bike. Noise is a tough thing to diagnose. Coming from a mechanic with 20+ years experience I've chased "head tube creaks" and "bottom bracket" down to be rear dropouts and pedals and if the bike is carbon or oversize AL the noise will echo even more making it harder to find.

That said I am not discounting the fork, just please have it double checked, it may just be a bushing seat issue or headset race not pressed on all the way. If it is coming from the crown/steer or crown/stanchion you will need to get it replaced asap as it could fail and be really bad. If it is the fork it will be warrantied, no problem.


----------



## Oppet (Jan 12, 2007)

Hi

Yes its been prosessed  at local zocchi dealer.

As somekind of mechanic myself also, I made Oil service for it and had legs apart. 
while upper legs were against floor and headtube against small piece of wood I pushed crown and it made same noise, so defenetly its the crown.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

my fork arrived and its a beauty


----------



## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

M1_joel said:


> my fork arrived and its a beauty


It sure is!!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Oppet said:


> Hi
> 
> Yes its been prosessed  at local zocchi dealer.
> 
> ...


Awesome! I'm happy to hear that.

Cool deal on the way you tested it. Your tech-Foo is strong


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

My replacement 350 CR arrived today none of the severe stiction of my original fork feels much plusher straight away.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

FYI everyone in SoCal.. November 15, 9-3 Factory sale!

everyone in Long Beach, California, United States - photo by Marzocchi-USA - Pinkbike


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

I got a 350cr and have a couple of question:

-the fork has some roughness, and i can hear and feel a light click at more or less 50 mm of travel, which I assume is the negative coil engaging/disengaging... can i do something about it? I already took the lowers off, and all is correctly greased.

-if i want to upgrade the seals to skf, do the 350 use the same SKF.KIT35M kit as the 55?

-what if i want to convert it to coil? is the R spring cartrige the same as the NCR Ti one, apart the coil being ti vs steel? and is the 55 spring cartridge compatible?

Oh, my fork is new, but i don't have a warranty on it.

Thanks


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

I don't know for sure but I would imagine the spring length would be different and you would need the 350r spring cartridge.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

new but no warranty? explain please.

Since you have it taken apart, you can take that negative spring bumper that has the 4 little nubs on it and just trip them off. it will get rid of that clicking, as the spring rides on it and can sometimes cause that noise.

as far as roughness, make sure you lube up the bushings real good using Molykote for O-rings and fork oil blended together into a paste. get some fork oil in between the bushings and lower casting and lube up the seals really good as well.

The SKF seals are in stock now and will work on the 55 or the 350. the part number is 8507014/P but they aren't cheap.

to convert the CR to a coil you need these parts:
8037004/P
PISTON ROD SPRING 55/350 160 (150-140)

8501444/P 
FIXING SCREW PISTON ROD 35/38

536170>A
SPRING GUIDE 55/350

5142061/P (replaces 5142061/I, 5142061)
STEEL SPRING 35/160/6.5 55R/350R 
(or 5141930/P>A (replaces 5141930>A, 5141930)
SPRING TITANIUM 55/350 160 K7,3)

701977/P
TOP CAP 35/AL/BLK AIR PL 350

you can use your current top cap air valve cap with the 701977/P

The spring cartridge parts are the same in the R as the NCR but you have the Ti coil, the rest are the same.



savo said:


> I got a 350cr and have a couple of question:
> 
> -the fork has some roughness, and i can hear and feel a light click at more or less 50 mm of travel, which I assume is the negative coil engaging/disengaging... can i do something about it? I already took the lowers off, and all is correctly greased.
> 
> ...


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> new but no warranty? explain please.
> 
> Since you have it taken apart, you can take that negative spring bumper that has the 4 little nubs on it and just trip them off. it will get rid of that clicking, as the spring rides on it and can sometimes cause that noise.
> 
> ...


great info @Marzocchi_USA, thank you very much.

I will try the work on the negative coil bumper.

are this the skf seals? SKF Fork Dust Seal Kit 1 Leg 35mm Marzocchi

what would be the cost for the coil conversion parts, if you can tell us here? (both steel and ti please)

new w/o warranty explaination: i bought the fork second hand, but it's never been installed. it seems to be an OEM, because it's a CR with espresso coated stanchions.

thanks again


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> great info @Marzocchi_USA, thank you very much.
> 
> I will try the work on the negative coil bumper.
> 
> ...


would you believe it that that web site is blocked for me by my corporate firewall so I can't check for sure. we only have one 35mm SKF seal kit though. We just got them in here in the US so I would imagine Windwave is getting them or got them in the last few weeks.

a CR with Espresso is either a OEM model or was a pre production sample intended for OE from what I have seen here, we have a couple of them like that but all are not for sale except to OE customers.

Ti coil is $221
top cap for air preload: $34
spring guide Ti spring: $7.00
Spring guide steel spring: $5.00
Piston rod assembly: $67
Fixing screw: $14.

these are USD prices


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

How much are the SKF seals, and where can they be purchased in the states?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> How much are the SKF seals, and where can they be purchased in the states?


they are $71.83 and we just got them in house here and will be shipping next week to shops and international retailers. We can't sell internationally because of our other distributors like Windwave but Jensonusa.com will be getting them (I imagine). you can try to hit up [email protected] and see if Mat can get you set up or knows of anyone over here that has them

- DM


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

@Marzocchi_USA...I have been following this thread from the beginning. I've never used, or owned any Marz components before, but the 350 CR has really piqued my interest, and has me thinking that this could be my next fork for my upcoming build. I did some searching around on the web for availability and pricing, and came up with an ad for one on eBay. It says it comes from an "Authorized Marzocchi Dealer", and will come withe the standard 3 year warranty. Will Marzocchi stand behind their warranty if purchased from eBay? There were actually a few of the 350 CR forks on eBay for sale. I also found it on Jenson USA as well and some other big internet bike sites. I'm also thinking of pairing this with a Marzocchi rear shock. Would the 053 S3C2R be a good match with the 350 CR? If I use the 350 CR for my new build, I would more than likely lower it to 150mm. Will it lower to 140mm as well and can I expect the spacers to be included in the purchase of this fork regardless of who I buy it from?

The 3 frames I'm currently thinking about are as follows...

Knolly Warden

Norco Sight 7.3 Carbon

Ibis HD3


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> would you believe it that that web site is blocked for me by my corporate firewall so I can't check for sure. we only have one 35mm SKF seal kit though. We just got them in here in the US so I would imagine Windwave is getting them or got them in the last few weeks.


The seal kit i was referring is sold by skf as KIT35M, for the Marz 55 fork and older 35mm stanchioned 66 and 888. is it the same for the 350?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

kevinboyer said:


> I did some searching around on the web for availability and pricing, and came up with an ad for one on eBay. It says it comes from an "Authorized Marzocchi Dealer", and will come withe the standard 3 year warranty. Will Marzocchi stand behind their warranty if purchased from eBay? There were actually a few of the 350 CR forks on eBay for sale.


The 350 CR lot on eBay you are reffering is from Krakatoa bikes krakatoabikes.com they seem to be legit.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> The 350 CR lot on eBay you are reffering is from Krakatoa bikes krakatoabikes.com they seem to be legit.


sweet, Krakatoa is totally legit, no worries.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> they are $71.83 and we just got them in house here and will be shipping next week to shops and international retailers. We can't sell internationally because of our other distributors like Windwave but Jensonusa.com will be getting them (I imagine). you can try to hit up [email protected] and see if Mat can get you set up or knows of anyone over here that has them
> 
> - DM


Whoa whoa whoa...over $70 for seals? I assume that's not a full seal kit, just the wipers? If so, that's about 2.5x the price that Fox charges for their SKF-developed seals...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Whoa whoa whoa...over $70 for seals? I assume that's not a full seal kit, just the wipers? If so, that's about 2.5x the price that Fox charges for their SKF-developed seals...


it is the oil and dust seals so a complete kit but yes, they are pretty pricey. I'm just the messenger, don't shoot me


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

@Marzocchi_USA...It's a go on the 350 CR. I'm also thinking of pairing the 350 CR with a Marzocchi rear shock. Would the 053 S3C2R be a good match with the 350 CR? If I decide to change the travel of the 350, will it only lower to 140mm? Should I expect the spacers to be in the box when I receive it, or is it an added expense?

Here are the 3 frames I am contemplating using the 350 CR on as well as the rear shock.

Knolly Warden

Norco Sight 7.3 Carbon

Ibis HD3


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

kevinboyer said:


> @Marzocchi_USA...It's a go on the 350 CR. I'm also thinking of pairing the 350 CR with a Marzocchi rear shock. Would the 053 S3C2R be a good match with the 350 CR? If I decide to change the travel of the 350, will it only lower to 140mm? Should I expect the spacers to be in the box when I receive it, or is it an added expense?
> 
> Here are the 3 frames I am contemplating using the 350 CR on as well as the rear shock.
> 
> ...


Nice!

the CR will come with 2 different reducers, a 10mm and a 20mm. have a shop do it or if it is special order ask the shop to have us do it before it is sent. travel is stock at 160mm (I'd just leave it there) but can be reduced to 150mm or 140mm.

The 053 would be a great fit for that fork, it is hyper adjustable and adaptable. It won't be available until spring 2015 though so don't sell the stock rear shock just yet 

out of those three frames I'd be into that Ibis myself, it looks like a nice bike and I know they have great quality. I'm into plastic bikes though and have always had a soft spot for Ibis as a brand.

cheers!

DM


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Nice!
> 
> the CR will come with 2 different reducers, a 10mm and a 20mm. have a shop do it or if it is special order ask the shop to have us do it before it is sent. travel is stock at 160mm (I'd just leave it there) but can be reduced to 150mm or 140mm.
> 
> ...


The new HD3 is certainly a nice frame. I have a 2014 Knolly Endorphin that I just built up 2 months ago. I'm loving that bike, as well as the Knolly brand. That's why I was looking at the Warden. The Norco is a 140mm frame which would work nicely if I reduced the 350 CR down to that. Where I typically ride, ( N GA, TN and NC ) 140 is plenty of travel so I definitely will reduce it down to 150mm to start with. As far as the rear shock goes, I will need to see what the eye to eye measurement is on the 3 different shocks that come stock on these frames to see if the 053 will fit or not. Based on what I've seen, it looks like the 053 has a multitude of lengths.

As far as the spacers go, the dealer on ebay said if I wanted spacers it would be a $10.00 add on. He said that the fork would come "directly from Marzocchi, fully warrantied, in original packaging, but would not include any spacers". Does this sound right to you? From one of the previous posts, it looks like the dealer is Krakatoa Bikes. Just want to be sure before I make the purchase.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

kevinboyer said:


> The new HD3 is certainly a nice frame. I have a 2014 Knolly Endorphin that I just built up 2 months ago. I'm loving that bike, as well as the Knolly brand. That's why I was looking at the Warden. The Norco is a 140mm frame which would work nicely if I reduced the 350 CR down to that. Where I typically ride, ( N GA, TN and NC ) 140 is plenty of travel so I definitely will reduce it down to 150mm to start with. As far as the rear shock goes, I will need to see what the eye to eye measurement is on the 3 different shocks that come stock on these frames to see if the 053 will fit or not. Based on what I've seen, it looks like the 053 has a multitude of lengths.
> 
> As far as the spacers go, the dealer on ebay said if I wanted spacers it would be a $10.00 add on. He said that the fork would come "directly from Marzocchi, fully warrantied, in original packaging, but would not include any spacers". Does this sound right to you? From one of the previous posts, it looks like the dealer is Krakatoa Bikes. Just want to be sure before I make the purchase.


I am a HUGE fan of Knolly myself actually. I am working with them to stock our forks and shocks as part of their build kits. I owned a shop a long time back and was one of their first dealers back when they were making the bikes in Portland and the CNC parts in Canada. they work fantastic and the crew there are awesome so for sure you can do a lot worse!

Have you tried contacting Krakatoa directly? he has a Facebook page and here: krakatoabikes.com the guy's name is Miguel, he is pretty rad. I have been to his shop in person so I know it is legit. it's just a small family run hole in the wall and I love it. There is a chance the fork will end up being a special order from us as he may not have it in stock, just ask him and if it will be ask him to have it lowered here before shipping.

I'm positive we will have a 053 that fits all three of those frames so no worries


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## kevinboyer (Jan 19, 2012)

"I'm positive we will have a 053 that fits all three of those frames so no worries"

Sweet...Thanks David. I'll give Miguel a call tomorrow.


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## pilotrcuk (Jun 6, 2010)

@Marzocchi_USA: would you happen to know or be able to find out if the 053 S3C2R will fit a 2015 Mondraker Foxy Carbon frame please? Most piggy back shocks won't though the 053 might be a little lower profile...

Many thanks,
Al


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> it is the oil and dust seals so a complete kit but yes, they are pretty pricey. I'm just the messenger, don't shoot me


No shots will be fired, no worries - I'm just hoping these stock seals last well in that case!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

word up


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

pilotrcuk said:


> @Marzocchi_USA: would you happen to know or be able to find out if the 053 S3C2R will fit a 2015 Mondraker Foxy Carbon frame please? Most piggy back shocks won't though the 053 might be a little lower profile...
> 
> Many thanks,
> Al


I will check. I am on a waiting lust for one of those frames now (waiting for my wife to let me get it)


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

they should, they are the same NOK seal system we have been using for years with no issues. the SKF seals are just a super frictionless compound originally designed to work with the silicone molybdenum of the Espresso coating but they work great with any type of coating or ano stanchion.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

So I'm checking out this 350 NCR and it looks good until I get to the part where the HSC is adjusted through a shim stack? So basically you get external LSR and LSC but for HSR and HSC you have to take the fork apart and mess with a bunch of shims? HSR and LSC are my only set and forget options. LSR and HSC are something I adjust all the time. For example at the start of the day (uplifting, as always) I run my HSC pretty stiff so I fly over everything and pretend I'm Aaron Gwin. Towards the end of the day I start backing off as fatigue starts to set in and I'm looking for more comfort (plush) over performance. I can't do this with just LSC or can I with the NCR?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Swissam said:


> So I'm checking out this 350 NCR and it looks good until I get to the part where the HSC is adjusted through a shim stack? So basically you get external LSR and LSC but for HSR and HSC you have to take the fork apart and mess with a bunch of shims? HSR and LSC are my only set and forget options. LSR and HSC are something I adjust all the time. For example at the start of the day (uplifting, as always) I run my HSC pretty stiff so I fly over everything and pretend I'm Aaron Gwin. Towards the end of the day I start backing off as fatigue starts to set in and I'm looking for more comfort (plush) over performance. I can't do this with just LSC or can I with the NCR?


we developed the 350 based on the system in the 380 where there is both LSC/HSC and LSR/HSR adjustable from the outside of the fork via knobs and also have an accessible HSC sub cartridge where the shims can be swapped as needed for custom tuning.

We worked with a plethora of international racers and riders and concluded that having only LSC/LSR externally adjustable with internally adjustable shims for MSC/HSR (through a trained service center only as the system is delicate and needs to be bled again when shims are changed) was the way to go for a public offering of the product.

The base tune setting internally is the same used by our world enduro racers and has a HUGE range of adjustability just in the low speed systems. This set up also has an IFP system in it to provide a pedal platform under climbing and sprinting loads.

All that said between air preload and the LSC you should be able to find every setting you need.


----------



## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Are there any pictures of 2014 350 CR internals? Are they like ones in 55CR?
As I've read there are some problems with 55 CR: oil from the stachions gets pumped to the air chamber. And it sucked 12ml of oil from the overall 20ml in 10 days. The same problem was with Fox Floats 2010-2012.

I can post the links, but the posts there are in russian =)


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

email me and I'll get them over to you

[email protected]

cheers!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Honestly I haven't heard of that happening to the 55 CR but I saw a couple of the first Gen 350 CR do that but there is a real easy fix for it we can do under warranty if it happens.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Honestly I haven't heard of that happening to the 55 CR but I saw a couple of the first Gen 350 CR do that but there is a real easy fix for it we can do under warranty if it happens.


By easy fix you mean swapping foam ring with o-ring?

Can you look at the pictures here MZ 55 CR X-Bikers.ru? The guy went even further and did some drilling. What do you think of such modification?

PS: My 350 CR is covered by warranty but I'll be able to get it only in two weeks or so and the waiting is killing me


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> By easy fix you mean swapping foam ring with o-ring?
> 
> Can you look at the pictures here MZ 55 CR X-Bikers.ru? The guy went even further and did some drilling. What do you think of such modification?
> 
> PS: My 350 CR is covered by warranty but I'll be able to get it only in two weeks or so and the waiting is killing me


Easier than what the guy in Russia did. We don't drill any holes and swap the foam deal for a different quad seal. I have no idea why he put those holes there but I sent this to my engineers for a direct answer.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

I have always been a bike whore who likes the bike as much as I do riding. I LOVE this fork. It feels great and looks killer too. Very happy customer here.


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## pilotrcuk (Jun 6, 2010)

Thanks for that, sorry didn't see your reply sooner. If I get mine first I'll let you know ;-)


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

pilotrcuk said:


> Thanks for that, sorry didn't see your reply sooner. If I get mine first I'll let you know ;-)


sweet.

I'm still waiting to hear back.I am hoping they just send me one


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

I'm still wondering if the 55 RC3 ti V2 coil cartridge would fit the 350 (air).
can someone say what would work and what would not?


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

savo said:


> I'm still wondering if the 55 RC3 ti V2 coil cartridge would fit the 350 (air).
> can someone say what would work and what would not?


And just to add some thinking, as long as i see both the cr cartridge and the stanchions of the 350 would allow 170mm of travel (and something more actually) so if the 55 coil internals can work it would be possible to get a 170mm 350...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> And just to add some thinking, as long as i see both the cr cartridge and the stanchions of the 350 would allow 170mm of travel (and something more actually) so if the 55 coil internals can work it would be possible to get a 170mm 350...


The stanchions on the 350 are not long enough to take it up to 170mm. good thinking though.

Are you thinking of getting a 350 CR and dropping the Rc3 internals? if so, just get the NCR air, it is a better cartridge and system.


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Are you thinking of getting a 350 CR and dropping the Rc3 internals? if so, just get the NCR air, it is a better cartridge and system.


Nope, I have a 350cr and i'm thinking of dropping in the titanium spring system from a 55

Yes, selling the cr and buying a 350ncr ti would be a better option i know  but more expensive too.


----------



## komondor (Aug 5, 2008)

What are the differences between the cr and the nrc model.
I know that the nrc has the «lock-out», expresso coating and sfk seals(that I can later put on a cr).
But what about the damping and rebound system.
Are they the same?
Could you please comment on that part Marzocchi-USA


----------



## komondor (Aug 5, 2008)

What are the differences between the cr and the nrc model.
I know that the nrc has the «lock-out», expresso coating and sfk seals(that I can later put on a cr).
But what about the damping and rebound system.
Are they the same?
Could you please comment on that part Marzocchi-USA


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

Just received a NCR yesterday and got it mounted up. Hopefully I should be able to get it out for a ride over the holiday!


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

komondor said:


> What are the differences between the cr and the nrc model.
> I know that the nrc has the «lock-out», expresso coating and sfk seals(that I can later put on a cr).
> But what about the damping and rebound system.
> Are they the same?
> Could you please comment on that part Marzocchi-USA


From what was mentioned in some earlier posts in response to questions that I asked, the compression and rebound circuits are different. The CR is a bit more simplistic relative to the NCR both in rebound and compression, and the NCR also has an IFP (Internal Floating Piston) that helps to isolate pedaling forces and help the fork bob a bit less on the way up.

Personally, I love my CR - the compression adjustment is effective and at 4 clicks feels just right for me. The rebound circuit occasionally leaves something to be desired as it doesn't recover as well as, say, a Pike in some really choppy situations, but I think the forks overall composure and smoothness makes up for it.


----------



## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

psycle-on said:


> Just received a NCR yesterday and got it mounted up. Hopefully I should be able to get it out for a ride over the holiday!
> 
> View attachment 942071


Very nice. I got the pretty blue SKF seals on order for my 350CR. your bike looks killer!!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> Nope, I have a 350cr and i'm thinking of dropping in the titanium spring system from a 55
> 
> Yes, selling the cr and buying a 350ncr ti would be a better option i know  but more expensive too.


You can always use that 55 as an upgrade/trade in for an NCR. just contact our USA office


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

komondor said:


> What are the differences between the cr and the nrc model.
> I know that the nrc has the «lock-out», expresso coating and sfk seals(that I can later put on a cr).
> But what about the damping and rebound system.
> Are they the same?
> Could you please comment on that part Marzocchi-USA


Thanks for the questions Luis,

the cartridges between the two forks are different. the NCR uses an IFP system in its low frequency compression as well as its low frequency rebound to give it a pedal platform it low compression speeds. This enables the fork to essentially be a "smart" fork sensing the differences between pedal input and ground/bump forces.

Both the low speed compression and rebound have more circuits in them allowing for a wider adjustment range as well. Plus the high speed compression is adjustable internally via the shim system as it is its own cartridge (however that cartridge is inside of a bath system that needs to be bled if changed. That change can only be done by a service center because of its complications).

hope that answers it all 

-DM


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

Thought I would share my experience with my CR. Received the fork from the good boys in Vancouver with a upgraded High Speed shim stack. 
Currently have just over 1000 km on the fork since October 15.... Yes im not working currently. I will make a point to all owners of this fork. Using the Molykote 55 is a must. ITs not cheap but its the best stuff I have found to work on seals and o rings. I recently had some of newer SKF seals sent to me and those make a drastic difference with a service to the lowers and the use of Molykote. I also used the Molykote in the air system and mixed it with some heavier weight fork oil. 

MY only complaint and I wish I new this before is the CR is a bit bland in the rebound department.. IM not saying its terrible but you get what you pay for. IM not punter for a rider and im finding a lot of situation's were I'm getting tossed when charging hard.

Im wonder if the NCR cartridge can be purchased for my fork? Or do I need to sell it and buy a whole new fork? I know I am not supposed to take the fork apart but I found the damper a little interesting to bleed. I ended up submerging the rebound piston and making a special cup around the seal head so no air was introduced into the system. I wont go into detail since I know its not recommended to remove.

Can this pedal platform be taken out of the NCR compression circuit? The CR uses a spring to loaded IFP which is kinda neat. I like the CR's High speed stack that was upgraded. Any thoughts on my idea. I don't care for Pedal PLATFORMS 


I work for Giant bikes and im on the road all summer and need something a little more user friendly when the damper needs a bleed. I cant really send the fork away since im on the move all the time. I know you guys promote sending forks back but I have serviced a lot of forks in my time. 

Im pretty happy with my fork so far! the last ZOKEs I owned was a DH3 in with a whopping 3 inches of travel....


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

@Shanej...

I feel the same way about the rebound. I just sent my fork in for service and asked whether there are any options to upgrade or customize, but no word from Marz yet.

I'm also thinking about requesting a more substantial High Speed Compression tune. What did you specifically request that led to the new shim configuration, and what difference have you noticed in the way the fork handles?


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

babyz said:


> @Shanej...
> 
> I feel the same way about the rebound. I just sent my fork in for service and asked whether there are any options to upgrade or customize, but no word from Marz yet.
> 
> I'm also thinking about requesting a more substantial High Speed Compression tune. What did you specifically request that led to the new shim configuration, and what difference have you noticed in the way the fork handles?


I don't have the base shim stack to base anything off. I was told it was kind of the next tune up from stock, this was installed before a purchased the fork. Im 180 pounds run about 75 to 80 psi in the fork. I ramped up the air 5 psi since the rebuild the seals and proper O ring and seal lube freed up the fork . Its really small bump sensitive now. I like to fiddle so I would love to adjust the shim stack from here to be honest. But the rebound in the current CR fork cant be changed .


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> You can always use that 55 as an upgrade/trade in for an NCR. just contact our USA office


Thanks, but i'm not in the USA.
No answer about the spring side swap feasibility?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> Thanks, but i'm not in the USA.
> No answer about the spring side swap feasibility?


sorry, I missed that.

The air chamber is different and the spring won't fit if dropped in. the springs in the 55 don't fit in the stanchions, they bind up when compressed, we tried it.

the NCR coil cartridge will be available soon and you'll be able to get those parts to upgrade it if you want though, probably just after the new year.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> The air chamber is different and the spring won't fit if dropped in. the springs in the 55 don't fit in the stanchions, they bind up when compressed, we tried it.


Ok thank you, i truly appreciate your answering to all our questions.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> Ok thank you, i truly appreciate your answering to all our questions.


very welcome, it's why I'm here.

cheers!


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

That's good news on upgrading the cartridge  Im not saying this fork isn't up to snuff by any means! Another question the claimed weight between both forks... is it just the damper system that shaves the grams or is it the chassis also on the NCR? My assumption would be the internals.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Shanej said:


> That's good news on upgrading the cartridge  Im not saying this fork isn't up to snuff by any means! Another question the claimed weight between both forks... is it just the damper system that shaves the grams or is it the chassis also on the NCR? My assumption would be the internals.


word.

yeah it is all internals and oil volume. form factor is the same between all forks.


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## Silliker269 (Aug 14, 2014)

@Shanej
So what is it about the rebound damping that's off ? To fast , to slow, or to too slow deep in the travel and to fast near full extension ? 

@MarzocchiUSA
Where is the best place to order the small parts ? I stripped the rebound side footnut ( eventually got it off with vise grips) and was hoping you could help me track down another one 

Thanks


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

From what I have found and trust me I have turned into a bike nerd again after being in the industry since 1996. I used to race some Canada cups and Norba races down in the USA. I would say my riding is still decent... SO ill try and give you positive feedback..
I tested the fork on a few local trails back to back. I found of a few maybe 3 to 4 foot high speed drops 35 to 45 kph down pretty steep terrain the fork simple cant keep the front end planted. That's in the middle of the adjustment range 1 or 2 clicks to slower depending on the terrain. 
It returns way to quick and has bucked me of the same drop with a few different adjustments. In mid stroke it seems to be fine but really this all comes down to shaft speeds and what the trail is offering. At the end of its stroke its ok but could be better for small bump traction at high speeds.

Again we are asking alot for a Low speed port to take care of high and low speed events. It is a cost effective price on the CR and other companies have the same style rebound assembly. SO they are all in the same boat.. Im really amazed by how wicked the fork is for eating up bumps and it doesn't bottom out very often or at all. I removed all the factory grease in the air chamber and mixed some Molykote and thick oil and adjusted the air chamber to my liking. When I had my hands on are 2015 Reign's in my demo fleet this fall I really didn't like the Pike. I mean it FELT good but on the trail it didn't have the bump eating capability's that my CR with the upgraded High speed stack. 

I want to see what its going to cost to get the NCR cartridge or maybe sell my fork  Its a buyers market so I cant get much for it. 

Im also in need for a new Rebound foot nut.. Ill bother the guys in Vancouver for one.

Hope I didn't ramble too much when I was in my riding prime.... we didn't have forums to post on......


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## Silliker269 (Aug 14, 2014)

Thanks for the reply man, I probably wont get to try mine out until spring so wanted to know what Im in for. I'm guessing you run a fairly high pressure for riding hard like that. Sounds like the rebound circuit might be suited for lower pressures. From what I am reading on the interwebs if your not a fan of the pike you might as well drop some cash and go for the BOS Deville, haven't hear anything but praise on that one so far. Arts Cycle does have a sale on this week  .. But yeah I think the 350 will suit me just fine 99% of the time, throw some good rubber on the from and let er buck


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Silliker269 said:


> @Shanej
> So what is it about the rebound damping that's off ? To fast , to slow, or to too slow deep in the travel and to fast near full extension ?
> 
> @MarzocchiUSA
> ...


if you are in the US just call in 1800-227-5579.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Shanej said:


> From what I have found and trust me I have turned into a bike nerd again after being in the industry since 1996. I used to race some Canada cups and Norba races down in the USA. I would say my riding is still decent... SO ill try and give you positive feedback..
> I tested the fork on a few local trails back to back. I found of a few maybe 3 to 4 foot high speed drops 35 to 45 kph down pretty steep terrain the fork simple cant keep the front end planted. That's in the middle of the adjustment range 1 or 2 clicks to slower depending on the terrain.
> It returns way to quick and has bucked me of the same drop with a few different adjustments. In mid stroke it seems to be fine but really this all comes down to shaft speeds and what the trail is offering. At the end of its stroke its ok but could be better for small bump traction at high speeds.
> 
> ...


Great feedback! It is things like this that I like to read here. I'm sure Naz and Alex can get you set up on that rebound knob, no worries.


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## Tally Ho (May 23, 2012)

I live in a hot jungle environment and my current 2014 fox air forks often grow firmer due to the fork air expanding in the heat. Would the 350ncr titanium resolve this problem being a coil?


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

explain? I would love to see what a air system does after a 15 minute run... Most people or (punters) cant even DH non stop for that long. I think were the problem lies and here is my disappointment with the bike industry. 

We don't see what a for Damper system does after lets say a 5 minute cycle. How much does the oil heat up and the damper do with that oil. How much does the suspension curves change? If your a nerd like me you want that info. 

An air system made out of aluminum would expand with how much heat? correct!! But really we have a small amount of oil in that system to battle that problem. Im not sure how a coil would help that. ?

Your tolerance's in your fork are designed to glide on oil between the bushing and stanchion. Maybe these Fox forks aren't getting the service they need. You got a lot of air moving over a fork leg to cool it down. 

Maybe Im out to lunch but I have seen poorly lubricated open bath forks seize after just a couple runs. But I think that comes down to tolerances and maybe the end user was using a grease more than a oil.

You change your oil in your car every 6 months? why not your oil in your $1000.00 fork every 3 weeks? Its not hard to service the lowers... But again im all about buttery smooth working suspension... 

The biggest thing with suspension is getting the air out of the damper system.. IF you don't the performance falls off really fast and the oil gets aerated.


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## Tally Ho (May 23, 2012)

Shanej said:


> explain? I would love to see what a air system does after a 15 minute run... Most people or (punters) cant even DH non stop for that long. I think were the problem lies and here is my disappointment with the bike industry.
> 
> We don't see what a for Damper system does after lets say a 5 minute cycle. How much does the oil heat up and the damper do with that oil. How much does the suspension curves change? If your a nerd like me you want that info.
> 
> ...


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Tally Ho said:


> Shanej said:
> 
> 
> > explain? I would love to see what a air system does after a 15 minute run... Most people or (punters) cant even DH non stop for that long. I think were the problem lies and here is my disappointment with the bike industry.
> ...


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

savo said:


> Tally Ho said:
> 
> 
> > Another factor is that the oil in the damper decrease his viscosity due to the heat, so you end up with a less dampened fork. This will not vary with a coil fork.
> ...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Tally Ho said:


> I live in a hot jungle environment and my current 2014 fox air forks often grow firmer due to the fork air expanding in the heat. Would the 350ncr titanium resolve this problem being a coil?


I can see that, I have had to burp air out of forks when I go up to elevation and have seen this across the board for all forks, coil or air but for sure more so on some brands than others and having a coil is better for that reason. I can see how a high humidity, hotter environment can lead to the same type of situation so it stands to reason a coil would be better off than a total air in that case.

Keep in mind the NCR Ti also uses air as the preload so you will still have to adjust it most likely.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Shanej said:


> explain? I would love to see what a air system does after a 15 minute run... Most people or (punters) cant even DH non stop for that long. I think were the problem lies and here is my disappointment with the bike industry.
> 
> We don't see what a for Damper system does after lets say a 5 minute cycle. How much does the oil heat up and the damper do with that oil. How much does the suspension curves change? If your a nerd like me you want that info.
> 
> ...


All of these are great points for discussion. thanks for bringing them all up!


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## _y5 (Feb 1, 2007)

This question might be better asked in a new thread since most comments are about the 350 series, however, I'm wondering if anyone has ridden the 2015 320 LR and their opinion of the fork.

I'm building a new 650b hardtail (either a Chinese carbon or the Commencal Meta Trail) and the 320 LR looks good, but I found a video (



 of the 2014 version ) and the fork really goes through its travel and I'm concerned it will be overwhelmed and pack down on short, rocky downhill sections.

Unlike the 350CR, it looks like I lose the ability to change the compression setting on the 320 LR. Wouldn't the compression setting allow me to control the progression of the fork so I don't go through all my travel but still have good small bump compliance?

Also, the fork in the video has the better coating on the stanchions. The 2015 320 LR has the silver coating and I'm wondering how this affects small bump compliance?

Thanks.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Just wanted to give a quick props to Marz USA. I sent my 350 CR in last week after rounding out the damper side foot nut, and I just got word that my fork is on its way back to me. 10mm travel spacer was installed and foot nut was replaced all at no cost to me. That's great service.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

_y5 said:


> This question might be better asked in a new thread since most comments are about the 350 series, however, I'm wondering if anyone has ridden the 2015 320 LR and their opinion of the fork.
> 
> I'm building a new 650b hardtail (either a Chinese carbon or the Commencal Meta Trail) and the 320 LR looks good, but I found a video (
> 
> ...


I'm curious what air pressure that person in the video is running. because of the proximity and fish-eye lens the fork looks like it is at 120mm also (not that it really matters).

The LR you would be getting for your 650b wheel (should you decide to get it) will use the same LR system as the 29" models like in this video but it will use the new lowers and crown (Marzocchi Shaves Up to 185g From 320 XC Forks, Updates Offset for 29ers) and won't be available for a while still. I haven't spent a lot of time on the LR model but it does have a fixed compression system in it leaving you to add air to it if you want it firmer. I have an LCR on my 29r hard tail and it works the same as the 350 NCR series in terms of compression adjustability.

I'd have to lump the 320 LR series into the 350 R category (albeit with an air spring, not coil): a solid, entry-level value oriented fork. Nothing fancy, reliable performance but no bells or whistles.

As far as stanchion coating, there is a noticeable difference in stiction between the espresso coating and any other coating we have used in the past or present (including the standard natural which is what comes on the LR models). nothing can be 100% stictionless but the espresso coated forks, once they are used for about an hour or so and all oil is working inside and everything is all lubed internally any stiction is virtually unnoticeable.

All that said, the LR model is a performance part but not a "high performance" part. It is a great every-mans fork but I wouldn't call it a pro level race fork like the LCR models. Hope that helped.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

babyz said:


> Just wanted to give a quick props to Marz USA. I sent my 350 CR in last week after rounding out the damper side foot nut, and I just got word that my fork is on its way back to me. 10mm travel spacer was installed and foot nut was replaced all at no cost to me. That's great service.


Fantastic! I am happy we were able to take care of you. With only 5 people here in the US doing the work of at least 10 we put customer service above everything, especially with anything technical.

cheers!


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## Bristecom (Aug 17, 2009)

You know, these days I really value reputation and customer service more than just about anything. If they seem passionate and knowledgeable about their products or services, and are genuinely caring for the customers, then I feel confident about buying their products or using their service and am happy to pay. But too much lately I have been lied to and cheated by companies (particularly car and bike dealers) and I feel like there's nobody that I can go to that is honest or helpful. It's like, if I want or need something, I just have to accept that I'm going to get poor service and pay way too much for it.

So sure, there are some products that I may actually prefer or that will perform better but if their service reputation sucks, screw them! One example is the Point One pedals. I read that many people were getting no responses from customer service and were having their warranties denied whereas with Canfield pedals, they were getting quick responses and were always covered if something happened. I've also heard some questionable things about BOS service which I was originally planning to go with but I am impressed by Marzocchi's dedication and support recently so it looks like I'll be going with their fork and shock instead.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Yeah, this thread and response from Marzocchi_USA was the primary reason why I chose 350 CR, which I'll finally lay my hands on today or tomorrow, hope it had a good journey across Atlantic. I'll post some images later. Also, I am now considering buying 053 shock when it will become available - US price for the shock is nothing but awesome.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

This thread is why I have a 350CR instead of a Fox36. Putting the SKF seals in this week.



IMG_20141124_162607.jpg Photo by Jimmy-pop | Photobucket


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Bristecom said:


> You know, these days I really value reputation and customer service more than just about anything. If they seem passionate and knowledgeable about their products or services, and are genuinely caring for the customers, then I feel confident about buying their products or using their service and am happy to pay. But too much lately I have been lied to and cheated by companies (particularly car and bike dealers) and I feel like there's nobody that I can go to that is honest or helpful. It's like, if I want or need something, I just have to accept that I'm going to get poor service and pay way too much for it.
> 
> So sure, there are some products that I may actually prefer or that will perform better but if their service reputation sucks, screw them! One example is the Point One pedals. I read that many people were getting no responses from customer service and were having their warranties denied whereas with Canfield pedals, they were getting quick responses and were always covered if something happened. I've also heard some questionable things about BOS service which I was originally planning to go with but I am impressed by Marzocchi's dedication and support recently so it looks like I'll be going with their fork and shock instead.


As a consumer myself I feel the same way and I approach my job here at Marzocchi from that mindset.. "a consumer, not customer." the difference (to me) there is that a consumer is one who purchases products from a variety of sources. A customer is one who only buys from a particular source. So the way I see it everyone is a consumer and so all consumers deserve the same respect and dignity as every customer but if you were just a customer I could expect you to just throw your money at me so your respect is not necessary as it is expected.

No matter where I am or what I am buying (bike parts to bananas) I look at the world that way and if I am not receiving that respect and dignity from any particular source I refuse to do business with that company. I know Marzocchi has failed in the past with that service/respect but all of us here in the US office are trying to change that for the better for sure. We may not have the best products for everyone (case in point..we don't have a banging NCR 26" fork,just the 55 CR) but we can offer best in class support and service to all consumers..from those that just want decals to those that want forks and shocks. It is a long road and time will tell but every revolution starts with a spark. As long as my colleagues here can keep up and keep fighting the good fight for everyone we will be good and everyone wins.

And to be fair and play advocate for Point 1 (I don't even own a pair) was going through lots and lots of growing pains as well as monitory issues and have been acquired by Gamut so service should be pretty spot on soon enough. I may even need to start riding flats again.


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## _y5 (Feb 1, 2007)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I'm curious what air pressure that person in the video is running. because of the proximity and fish-eye lens the fork looks like it is at 120mm also (not that it really matters).
> 
> The LR you would be getting for your 650b wheel (should you decide to get it) will use the same LR system as the 29" models like in this video but it will use the new lowers and crown (Marzocchi Shaves Up to 185g From 320 XC Forks, Updates Offset for 29ers) and won't be available for a while still. I haven't spent a lot of time on the LR model but it does have a fixed compression system in it leaving you to add air to it if you want it firmer. I have an LCR on my 29r hard tail and it works the same as the 350 NCR series in terms of compression adjustability.
> 
> ...


Is it possible to send the 320 LR to Marzocchi to have the compression changed it I don't like the default setting?

No doubt the espresso coating is better, I'm just trying to determine the quality of coating on the 320 LR. I would hope it would be better than on my current Fox fork which I would guess is about 6 years old and equivalent to my old Bomber which was very plush (of course it was a coil fork). Also it looks like the LR has the same seals as the 320 LCR. I would think this would help with stiction.

Finally, any chance the 320 LCR will be offered in black?


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

nice make sure you re do the air system with the Molykote. Mix it with a thicker shock oil and then tune the air chamber to your personal riding. Im going to make a injector tool so I can remove the valve core on my air side of the fork and add oil if needed down the road.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

_y5 said:


> Is it possible to send the 320 LR to Marzocchi to have the compression changed it I don't like the default setting?
> 
> No doubt the espresso coating is better, I'm just trying to determine the quality of coating on the 320 LR. I would hope it would be better than on my current Fox fork which I would guess is about 6 years old and equivalent to my old Bomber which was very plush (of course it was a coil fork). Also it looks like the LR has the same seals as the 320 LCR. I would think this would help with stiction.
> 
> Finally, any chance the 320 LCR will be offered in black?


The compression system on the LR models is fixed but the LCR models can be adjusted by us in house.

The natural coating (non-espresso) is a hard anodize finish probably the same as the Fox Evolution line. Without knowing their exact process I can't say for sure but it seems identical. Seals of the LR and LCR are the same for the 44mm offset but with the 51mm offset and 27.5" models they have a custom single seal system exclusive to those lower castings. These seals are lighter and have less friction than the standard black seals.

The LCR is white but black lowers will exist. the LCR Carbon comes in black and its lowers are the same as the LR and LCR non-carbon.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I've installed my 350 CR yesterday. Now I'm planning to order some green decals . Also I'm disappointed travel spacer wasn't included with the fork (ordered from Krakotoa bikes). And now I'm having 160/130 travel, yes GT made their Sensor X with 150/130, but 160 is a little to much. Now I'm thinking to buy 190x51 053 and make something like their aluminum Force X 2015 or just order travel spacer and reduce travel to 140
View attachment 946819


The fork feels nice, a lot better than the Sektor, but I wasn't able to ride it much: snow and ice aren't great conditions to ride and it is getting dark early..

Oh, and the thing I love most by now - it is plush, but it doesn't dive much under braking! To keep sektor plush I ran 35% sag(well, it was diving heavily even with 20% sag) and it was diving like hell under braking.


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

I'm glad you guys are enjoying your forks  I've had mine about 3 weeks now but I still can't finish the bike yet!

Mine didn't come with a spacer either but the local distributor (Windave) sent me one for free. Dropping the travel was a piece of cake.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Steve.E said:


> I'm glad you guys are enjoying your forks  I've had mine about 3 weeks now but I still can't finish the bike yet!
> 
> Mine didn't come with a spacer either but the local distributor (Windave) sent me one for free. Dropping the travel was a piece of cake.


I've ridden a few kms but, it doesn't mean that the bike is finished. I'm still waiting for narrow-wide chainring and 42t sprocket, they should arrive soon.

The thing is, I have no local official Marzocchi dealer in my country at the moment. Guess I'll have to buy the spacer from ebay.


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## talabardio (Oct 6, 2009)

Hi, I'm an XC rider interested in the 650b 320 LCR Carbon to replace my MRP Loop, which is a good fork but which is quite heavy. Are the 2015 models out in shops now? Are there any full-on reviews of this fork? I couldn't find any online.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> I've installed my 350 CR yesterday. Now I'm planning to order some green decals . Also I'm disappointed travel spacer wasn't included with the fork (ordered from Krakotoa bikes). And now I'm having 160/130 travel, yes GT made their Sensor X with 150/130, but 160 is a little to much. Now I'm thinking to buy 190x51 053 and make something like their aluminum Force X 2015 or just order travel spacer and reduce travel to 140
> View attachment 946819
> 
> 
> ...


@graved1gger, call up our tech or sales office here in Long Beach and we'll get you that reducer. The service needs to be done by a shop to keep warranty intact however.

also, if you want, email me and I'll set you up with the file for those gree decals. I have them at the ready.

[email protected]

cheers!

DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

talabardio said:


> Hi, I'm an XC rider interested in the 650b 320 LCR Carbon to replace my MRP Loop, which is a good fork but which is quite heavy. Are the 2015 models out in shops now? Are there any full-on reviews of this fork? I couldn't find any online.


not yet, I'll be seeing the 27.5 models in early spring, probably around Sea Otter time


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## talabardio (Oct 6, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> not yet, I'll be seeing the 27.5 models in early spring, probably around Sea Otter time


Ok, so this is not new product then?: Marzocchi 320 LCR Carbon Forks - 15mm 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

talabardio said:


> Ok, so this is not new product then?: Marzocchi 320 LCR Carbon Forks - 15mm 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles


I'm looking into that now. I was informed that fork wasn't slated for final production until January with production release in April. Maybe CRC has some pre-production models. I had one here but had to ship it to a distributor in S. America so I know the fork exists and works. I have an LR model of it here too but only one that is part of my marketing sample set that I can't sell.

the plot thickens...


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## talabardio (Oct 6, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I'm looking into that now...
> 
> the plot thickens...


Woah, that's odd. I figured that maybe an order would turn into a pre-order for product that wouldn't actually exist for a few months...


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

talabardio said:


> Woah, that's odd. I figured that maybe an order would turn into a pre-order for product that wouldn't actually exist for a few months...


yeah, I don't know. We are looking into it. I had my sales guy contact CRC to get the scoop. It they have them then cool, they got lucky and we got the short straw. :-/


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## BenHolloway (Apr 8, 2014)

when is that rear shock going to be floatin around the US...


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> As a consumer myself I feel the same way and I approach my job here at Marzocchi from that mindset.. "a consumer, not customer." the difference (to me) there is that a consumer is one who purchases products from a variety of sources. A customer is one who only buys from a particular source. So the way I see it everyone is a consumer and so all consumers deserve the same respect and dignity as every customer but if you were just a customer I could expect you to just throw your money at me so your respect is not necessary as it is expected.


Big words!
Respect for that!


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

Subscribed!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

BenHolloway said:


> when is that rear shock going to be floatin around the US...


the 053 and 023 (I still wish they went with the original names of Edge and Zola) are due around the same time as the 27.5 XC forks in early-mid spring (Sea Otter-ish)


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Wow, Edge and Zola were cute names.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> Wow, Edge and Zola were cute names.


at least you wouldn't be tripping over numbers constantly :-/


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I'll write it here.

David, thank you for the decals and your posts in this thread. Best support ever. I wish every manufacturer had the same support.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> I'll write it here.
> 
> David, thank you for the decals and your posts in this thread. Best support ever. I wish every manufacturer had the same support.


Thanks sir! I hope those files work out for you. make sure to post images when you get them made!

cheers!

-DM


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## macthekife (Jul 14, 2012)

Been following this thread for a while now and i think i am in the market for a set of 350 CR forks.

What i cannot find is any info on self service intervals. With the pikes i dropped the lowers every 50 - 80 hours of riding and cleaned and re-lubed.

Any info would be gratefully received,

thanks


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

For the 15 minutes it takes to do a lower service on the fork I would do it more to be honest. Rock Shox Pikes personally I think they should be done every 20 to 25 hours. They have no lubrication in them at all.

20-25 cc in each leg. 7 wt or I adjust depending in air temp its colder out so I went lighter... Use Molykote on the seals and the air piston. 

THe guys in Vancouver told me they are working on some service videos for the future. ??


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

Just got the SKF seals & Molykote 55 treatment done on the 350 CR. Feels great.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Hey All,

Recently ordered a Yeti SB6C frame and now need a fork to fit it!!

I am down to the new fox 36 and the 350 NCR, the only non Zoke I have ever ridden is my current 2011 36 fork going back to the mid 90's. I really want the NCR, convince me its the one!

Only thing that bugs me on the NCR is that handlebar remote, I see that as silly for a 160 fork, I would not mount that thing. Can I get my hands on the replacement knobs? There is a video posted by Marzocchi that just showed up on youtube showing how to replace, easy enough, but where do I get the parts? Better yet, can I order the fork with the non-remote version?

Pretty excited to see the quality on the Zokes is back, really want the Zoke, but have tested the new 36 and its pretty nice too. Anyone have any bad experience with the new 36?

Thanks


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

> Only thing that bugs me on the NCR is that handlebar remote, I see that as silly for a 160 fork, I would not mount that thing. Can I get my hands on the replacement knobs? There is a video posted by Marzocchi that just showed up on youtube showing how to replace, easy enough, but where do I get the parts? Better yet, can I order the fork with the non-remote version?


My NCR came with a replacement knob, 2 travel reduction spacers and a shock pump. I did not want the remote either so this is what it looks like now:


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

psycle-on said:


> My NCR came with a replacement knob, 2 travel reduction spacers and a shock pump. I did not want the remote either so this is what it looks like now:
> 
> View attachment 949747


Interesting, where did you order from? and even more importantly, how does that thing ride??

Thanks


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

My local shop got it for me.
I really like the ride compared to the Fox 34 that came on the bike. I have not ridden a Pike so I can't say how it compares there.
It has a lot more small bump sensitivity and on big hits it does not give the harsh bottom that the Fox did. I am still trying to fine tune the air pressure and compression damping but I am getting really close.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

psycle-on said:


> My local shop got it for me.
> I really like the ride compared to the Fox 34 that came on the bike. I have not ridden a Pike so I can't say how it compares there.
> It has a lot more small bump sensitivity and on big hits it does not give the harsh bottom that the Fox did. I am still trying to fine tune the air pressure and compression damping but I am getting really close.


Copy that, thanks for the info


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## beachbum1 (Oct 2, 2012)

The Pinkbike preview made a comment on there being a remote option for the 053 S3C2R. Any ideas if this will be an aftermarket option or whether there will be remote specific shocks that are not reversible?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Was just comparing A2C dimensions between the 2015 350 NCR, and 2015 fox 36 RC2. Is the NCR really 20mm taller? That's almost an inch!!

I am building up a yeti sb6, and with the fox it has a 65.5 head angle. I am drooling over the NCR, but not sure I want that head angle a whole lot slacker.

I see the NCR is 557 mm, and the fox is 537 mm. I know the 36 is shorter this year, but dang, I might be stuck with the fox unless I am missing something.

Any thoughts?


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## Hangtime (Jan 25, 2006)

How has the axel on the new forks been working out. I had problems with it on my last 55 (2012 micro Ti) and it looks like they are using the same system. I'd love to get back to a Zoke again.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

subydoo said:


> Was just comparing A2C dimensions between the 2015 350 NCR, and 2015 fox 36 RC2. Is the NCR really 20mm taller? That's almost an inch!!
> 
> I am building up a yeti sb6, and with the fox it has a 65.5 head angle. I am drooling over the NCR, but not sure I want that head angle a whole lot slacker.
> 
> ...


The 350 is 557mm tall, correct.
but isn't the Fox 36 650b 160mm supposed to be 549mm?

It's an 8mm difference.


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

savo said:


> The 350 is 557mm tall, correct.
> but isn't the Fox 36 650b 160mm supposed to be 549mm?
> 
> It's an 8mm difference.


Looks like I was using the 26" number, agreed 8mm not enough to worry about!


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## three3nine (Dec 11, 2012)

Looks great - where did you get the SKF seals?

I have a new CR 350 and like the fork a lot but am still having some stiction which I'm not too crazy about. I know some people have greased the lowers and added new oil which helps but I wouldn't mind doing the seals as well.

Thanks for any help!



M1_joel said:


> Just got the SKF seals & Molykote 55 treatment done on the 350 CR. Feels great.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

I got the seals direct from Marzocchi and the Molykote 55 from Amazon.com

The fork feels great.


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## tymbarek (Nov 17, 2009)

fr0sty125 said:


> Wondered if anyone could explain why this streak like wear is appearing on stanchions that are less than 4 months old.
> 
> View attachment 935098


Hmmm I can only say that something isn't right with coating or bushings. Mine 380 espresso coat, looks like crap after 4 hours of riding in normal conditions..


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Tymbarek - your 380 looks like that after only a few hours?

Been wanting to pull the trigger on a 350 NCR, but this concerns me. Saw this post a while back, was hoping it was an isolated incident...

May just have to buy the fox 36


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

It seems like an isolated incident, may be something to do with bushings, because my 350 CR made it through the tough rainy day fine. It has only ~8 hours of riding, but so far so good.


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

I have over 1000 kms on mine they look like that. Im not to concerned My Inline DB air on the rear is doing the same. I know that everything is lubricated and runs smooth. I guess im not too fussy about stuff like this


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## subydoo (Feb 17, 2005)

Shanej said:


> I have over 1000 kms on mine they look like that. Im not to concerned My Inline DB air on the rear is doing the same. I know that everything is lubricated and runs smooth. I guess im not too fussy about stuff like this


Wow, problems like that after only 1000 km, I am way too fussy to deal with that. My db air cs does not show any of those type marks after a season, and my fox 36 Kashima from 2011 does not either.

Are you running the 350 CR or NCR? The NCR is the espresso coating right?


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

My 350 CR 2014 (espresso coating) which had stiction and then developed the wear marks were warrantied very quickly. The replacement was much plusher with almost no stiction.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> My 350 CR 2014 (espresso coating) which had stiction and then developed the wear marks were warrantied very quickly. The replacement was much plusher with almost no stiction.


As I recall your photo - that wasn't espresso, that was gold race coating.

update:
it sure looks like gold race coating 


fr0sty125 said:


> Wondered if anyone could explain why this streak like wear is appearing on stanchions that are less than 4 months old.
> 
> View attachment 935098


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Yes you are right it is the gold race coating it is a bit confusing as it is a darker colour than the race coating on the 2014 55.

Oh someone I know also had the streaking/bushing issues on his 55 CR.

EDIT I was also told that Marzocchi were aware of the issue.


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## tymbarek (Nov 17, 2009)

fr0sty125 said:


> My 350 CR 2014 (espresso coating) which had stiction and then developed the wear marks were warrantied very quickly. The replacement was much plusher with almost no stiction.


Hmmmm. mine only has marks but in daylight they are almost invisible, they show up when use light from my LED flashlight. What about stiction my 380 has none I mean comparing to my previous nickel coated 380 from 2014 there is no stiction.


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

Any new developments regarding the dropper post? Excited to learn more!


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## larry08 (Apr 27, 2008)

Will the 35mm enduro fork seal kit (sold by RWC) for the 55 work with the 350? Also, is molykote 33 an acceptable alternative to the 55? All I have is 33 at the moment.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

macthekife said:


> Been following this thread for a while now and i think i am in the market for a set of 350 CR forks.
> 
> What i cannot find is any info on self service intervals. With the pikes i dropped the lowers every 50 - 80 hours of riding and cleaned and re-lubed.
> 
> ...


About every 100-ish hours of riding is our standard service interval. Generally twice a year for the average rider is fine though.

I've been traveling over the Holidays with no internet so I apologize for not getting back to this sooner.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

larry08 said:


> Will the 35mm enduro fork seal kit (sold by RWC) for the 55 work with the 350? Also, is molykote 33 an acceptable alternative to the 55? All I have is 33 at the moment.


I can't say if the RWC seals will work or not, I don't have any experience with them. If they are designed for our forks then they should be fine.

as far as the Molykote, don't use anything but the one specific for O-rings.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

bigcrs said:


> Any new developments regarding the dropper post? Excited to learn more!


we are shooting for Sea otter time for release. Don't quote me on that though as we may push it to early summer.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

subydoo said:


> Hey All,
> 
> Recently ordered a Yeti SB6C frame and now need a fork to fit it!!
> 
> ...


only the NCR Air has the remote but it also comes with the lever replacement parts in the box to swap it out. I'm not a fan of extra levers myself so we all made a point to have that as an option (for the US at least)


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

beachbum1 said:


> The Pinkbike preview made a comment on there being a remote option for the 053 S3C2R. Any ideas if this will be an aftermarket option or whether there will be remote specific shocks that are not reversible?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I haven't seen a remote option for the 053 yet so I can not confirm nor deny it exists.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Hangtime said:


> How has the axel on the new forks been working out. I had problems with it on my last 55 (2012 micro Ti) and it looks like they are using the same system. I'd love to get back to a Zoke again.


I haven't seen any issues with the axle system. the older ones with the hook clip dealy are gone and the new ones work just like a standard QR. If any issues come up with it within 2-years it will be warrantied though.


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

I've had a couple of rides on my 350 CR now, I love it. Coming from a Revelation RTL ti the Marz is incredibly stiff and supportive under low speed movements, when sprinting it stays high in the travel and is very supportive during cornering. It's got me looking at upgrading the rear shock now.


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## JMSmitty (Apr 17, 2013)

Why did Marzocchi decide to go with less offset on the 350 compared to other manufacturers? At 40mm offset on the 350, that is less than any 27.5 fork that I'm aware of and less than Marzocchi's own 26" forks(55cr @ 44mm). Seems backwards to me. Can someone help me why Marz seems to have gone a different direction with offset than the norm, which is to increase offset as wheel size increases? I''m trying to decide between the value of the 350cr compared to the established Pike as my fork on a Transition Scout build. I was leaning towards the 350 due to my experience with the 55 CR, and cost, but when I seen the offset I was a bit unsure. Thanks for any info


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

JMSmitty said:


> Why did Marzocchi decide to go with less offset on the 350 compared to other manufacturers? At 40mm offset on the 350, that is less than any 27.5 fork that I'm aware of and less than Marzocchi's own 26" forks(55cr @ 44mm). Seems backwards to me. Can someone help me why Marz seems to have gone a different direction with offset than the norm, which is to increase offset as wheel size increases?


+1
same question here.


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## Sk8er07999 (May 12, 2008)

JMSmitty said:


> Why did Marzocchi decide to go with less offset on the 350 compared to other manufacturers? At 40mm offset on the 350, that is less than any 27.5 fork that I'm aware of and less than Marzocchi's own 26" forks(55cr @ 44mm). Seems backwards to me. Can someone help me why Marz seems to have gone a different direction with offset than the norm, which is to increase offset as wheel size increases? I''m trying to decide between the value of the 350cr compared to the established Pike as my fork on a Transition Scout build. I was leaning towards the 350 due to my experience with the 55 CR, and cost, but when I seen the offset I was a bit unsure. Thanks for any info


Just a thought, possibly to keep the wheel base shorter? Similar to the 26 inch wheeled bikes we are used to riding.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Any reviews or rider feedback from the 350 NCR Ti? I'm still a coil kind of guy and would like to know if coil forks are progressing at all. Air has progressed amazingly well in the last few years but towards the end of a long DH run they tend to spike or stiffen up a bit. 
2150 grams for a coil fork is insane! A little bit more than 300 grams over the pike but it's a coil!! Remember when a fork under 3,000 grams was a light weight? Yeah all the waaaay back to 2012. Old school.


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## Silliker269 (Aug 14, 2014)

savo said:


> +1
> same question here.


the pike is 42 mm so not much difference at 40 mm and with larger wheels your suppose to bring the offset in anyways to keep the rake/trail in check


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Silliker269 said:


> the pike is 42 mm so not much difference at 40 mm and with larger wheels your suppose to bring the offset in anyways to keep the rake/trail in check


not really, with larger wheels you're actually supposed to build more offset in your fork to keep the trail in check.

I agree that 40mm is not too different from Rock Shock's 42mm offset, but I'm surprised that Marzocchi went down to 40mm coming from the 44mm offset of its 26 inch 55 fork, when - as said - the increased wheel diameter would call for increased fork offset as well.


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## Silliker269 (Aug 14, 2014)

Yeah your right savo my bad, that is strange why they went the other way


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

Perhaps they wanted to focus on hard hitting and high speed stability. Therefore, stiff fork with a bit more trail being a bit more suitable for the often rough Italian/Alpine terrain?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Silliker269 said:


> Yeah your right savo my bad, that is strange why they went the other way


I'm not sure either. I asked and was told that is what it needed to be. I think it had to do with some of the bikes our engineers were working with. We have always been known for doing our own thing though.


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

JMSmitty said:


> Why did Marzocchi decide to go with less offset on the 350 compared to other manufacturers? At 40mm offset on the 350, that is less than any 27.5 fork that I'm aware of and less than Marzocchi's own 26" forks(55cr @ 44mm). Seems backwards to me. Can someone help me why Marz seems to have gone a different direction with offset than the norm, which is to increase offset as wheel size increases? I''m trying to decide between the value of the 350cr compared to the established Pike as my fork on a Transition Scout build. I was leaning towards the 350 due to my experience with the 55 CR, and cost, but when I seen the offset I was a bit unsure. Thanks for any info


Pike has 42mm offset and 552mm axle to crown. On the other hand 350 ncr has 40mm offset and 557mm axle to crown. Maybe Marzocchi by reducing the offset of the fork tries not to change the geometry of a bike(make it slacker).


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

looperx said:


> Pike has 42mm offset and 552mm axle to crown. On the other hand 350 ncr has 40mm offset and 557mm axle to crown. Maybe Marzocchi by reducing the offset of the fork tries not to change the geometry of a bike(make it slacker).


I'll send this question to our engineering staff and see what they have to say about it and report back when I hear back

-DM


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## smithrider (Dec 24, 2005)

looperx said:


> Pike has 42mm offset and 552mm axle to crown. On the other hand 350 ncr has 40mm offset and 557mm axle to crown. Maybe Marzocchi by reducing the offset of the fork tries not to change the geometry of a bike(make it slacker).


I believe it would go the other way to maintain the same trail number. The higher axle to crown on the 350 would make for a slacker head angle, which would need a higher offset to keep the same trail figure as the lower, steeper head angle Pike.


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## feville (Jan 13, 2015)

A little late to the party but I've just ordered some 2014 350CR's and must admit the amount of support & info on this thread deffinately swayed me. Not owned any Marzocchis since my Z1 BAMs & even those were still plenty plush until I sold them last year. Really looking forward to getting my hands on the 350's as I'll be coming from a fox 32


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

feville said:


> A little late to the party but I've just ordered some 2014 350CR's and must admit the amount of support & info on this thread deffinately swayed me. Not owned any Marzocchis since my Z1 BAMs & even those were still plenty plush until I sold them last year. Really looking forward to getting my hands on the 350's as I'll be coming from a fox 32


cool deal @Feville, thanks for the props. I am trying for sure to get the word out and assist where/when needed.

cheers!


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## rehammer81 (Jun 18, 2010)

Been looking for reviews of the NCR Ti but nothing out there. I want to know people's comparisons between the NCR/NCR Ti and the Fox 36. I currently have a Pike that is alright but I'm not in love with it.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

rehammer81 said:


> Been looking for reviews of the NCR Ti but nothing out there. I want to know people's comparisons between the NCR/NCR Ti and the Fox 36. I currently have a Pike that is alright but I'm not in love with it.


I haven't seen any head to head comparisons yet. I'd love to though. I've only seen some reviews by rideio.com and enduro-mag.com


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## Brake-neck (Jan 16, 2015)

Hey guys, just tried to drop the lowers on my 350 CR's after reading in this thread about them being low on oil. Firstly this is spot on as there wasn't even a tea spoon of oil in the air side, however, when I went to undo the bolt on the damper side it promptly rounded off. Thinking to myself that I couldn't be arsed to return them I tried to tap in a 5.5 mm allen key instead and the alloy split. 
Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the assembly to see which part I need as I very much doubt warranty will be honoured after my actions.


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## babyz (Apr 17, 2014)

Whatever material they use for the damper side foot nut is utter crap - I had the same thing happen with mine. You just have to be extra careful about making sure the allen is FULLY inserted into the footnut before you put any pressure on it.

You can find some more detail earlier in this thread, but I would send the fork to Marz - they have excellent service and totally took care of me. They did not charge for replacing the footnut and also checked oil levels and installed a travel spacer at no cost. My only payment was the $20 for shipping to them.


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## Brake-neck (Jan 16, 2015)

Thanks for the answer, I think that's what I'll do, hopefully I get the same great service you got in the States.


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## feville (Jan 13, 2015)

Here's a pic of the 350CR on my Giant Trance.

So first ride impressions were very good, the fork has completely transformed the bike (prob not that hard coming from a Fox 32) it still climbs well (i put up with the climbs to enjoy the downs) being a 160mm rather than stock 140mm but point it down hill and it inspires so much confidence. Really pleased with the way it sits up in its travel, tracks the ground and just does everything i wanted it to. 

Kudos to Marzocchi

Is this low oil level a pretty common issue?


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

Nice! I just fit my 350CR as well but WILL be lowering it to 150mm (140 was stock)...Just want to avoid too high a BB and messing with the geo too much. I did contact Marz (I live 10 minutes from them USA) and they have no plans making a shock to fit the Kona Process line, it is a proprietary setup. Bummer, looks like a DBInline for me!


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

smithrider said:


> I believe it would go the other way to maintain the same trail number. The higher axle to crown on the 350 would make for a slacker head angle, which would need a higher offset to keep the same trail figure as the lower, steeper head angle Pike.


You are right. So if i put a 350 NCR on my bike, it will become slacker with more trail in comparison with a pike....


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Which meauserments do the required shims for the 053 shock have and will they be available at the same time as the shock is released?
Or are those shims available at a MX Shop?

Because I read the motoc2r has a bit too soft shimstack especcially referring to the midvalving for heavier riders around the 90 Kilos as a standard shimstack of course cannot cover every common riders weight and riding style. Besides I´ll perhaps have to tune the shock for my bikes leverage ratio anyway.
Anyway looking forward to getting this shock mounted in my beloved machine


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Brake-neck said:


> Hey guys, just tried to drop the lowers on my 350 CR's after reading in this thread about them being low on oil. Firstly this is spot on as there wasn't even a tea spoon of oil in the air side, however, when I went to undo the bolt on the damper side it promptly rounded off. Thinking to myself that I couldn't be arsed to return them I tried to tap in a 5.5 mm allen key instead and the alloy split.
> Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the assembly to see which part I need as I very much doubt warranty will be honoured after my actions.


I hate to say it but you are a little boned there. The nuts are interference fitted and should only be removed by a service center. there shouldn't be any oil inside the air chamber anyway, maybe only a touch for lubrication (aprox 20cc).

We have had a few forks come in that got boogered up by people trying to take them apart so just be honest with your service center and hopefully they will offer leniency with you


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

bansaiman said:


> Which meauserments do the required shims for the 053 shock have and will they be available at the same time as the shock is released?
> Or are those shims available at a MX Shop?
> 
> Because I read the motoc2r has a bit too soft shimstack especcially referring to the midvalving for heavier riders around the 90 Kilos as a standard shimstack of course cannot cover every common riders weight and riding style. Besides I´ll perhaps have to tune the shock for my bikes leverage ratio anyway.
> Anyway looking forward to getting this shock mounted in my beloved machine


I haven't heard here in the US about that yet. Our engineers are coming over at the end of the month to give us the full rundown on them however. Feel free to email us after the 29th with the same question: [email protected]

cheers!


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

The guys that have replaced seals with SKF's. Did you replace both dust & oil seals. If so how easy is it to seat the oil seals?


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

To MarzocchiUSA :

Any idea of when the 053 shocks will be released in Canada? Thanks!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

guim said:


> To MarzocchiUSA :
> 
> Any idea of when the 053 shocks will be released in Canada? Thanks!


sometime in April-May I'm told. Canada will get them when the US gets them, all the Canada stock is shipped from here in the US.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

Cool, thanks! Right on time for when the riding season starts here.


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> sometime in April-May I'm told. Canada will get them when the US gets them, all the Canada stock is shipped from here in the US.


Do you have detailed pics of the 053 damping unit? Cannot find any on the internet.would be nice to compare.
Is there a proper midvalving?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

bansaiman said:


> Do you have detailed pics of the 053 damping unit? Cannot find any on the internet.would be nice to compare.
> Is there a proper midvalving?


I have a PDF of it. the shock is essentially our Moto but as an air sprung unit. 
email me at [email protected] and I can send you the PDF


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> . The nuts are interference fitted and should only be removed by a service center.


Is the NCR TI more user friendly? I only buy forks that I can service myself. Which is why I never buy Fox and only buy RS or Zoke because of this. It would be sad to see Zoke become service center only forks.


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

I slightly damaged the nut too but lucky wasn't putting much torque on it, the fork was easy to service from then on (dropped travel and added oil.)


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

feville said:


> Here's a pic of the 350CR on my Giant Trance.
> 
> So first ride impressions were very good, the fork has completely transformed the bike (prob not that hard coming from a Fox 32) it still climbs well (i put up with the climbs to enjoy the downs) being a 160mm rather than stock 140mm but point it down hill and it inspires so much confidence. Really pleased with the way it sits up in its travel, tracks the ground and just does everything i wanted it to.
> 
> ...


I sure like your rig. The 2014 350CR's coating sure looks better, to me, than the darker expresso coating.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

mojo5pro said:


> The guys that have replaced seals with SKF's. Did you replace both dust & oil seals. If so how easy is it to seat the oil seals?


There are 4 seals in the SKF kit. i had my mechanic do the replacement so I can't speak to any details of the process.


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

Just purchased the 350 CR's. Fitted but not ridden as not finished build yet. But just pushing hard on bars with front wheel against wall they feel very notchy/dry with a lot of stiction. 
Do they improve very much with bedding in or is a case of poor oil/seal lube from factory?
Is the SKF seals a noticeable improvement?

cheers


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

If i install a spacer and lower the travel of the fork from 160mm to 150mm this will also affect the good and plush operation of it?


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

My new 350 NCRs arrived last week and I've just about finished my build. I was very pleasantly surprised to find that there is absolutely NO stiction in the fork right out of the box.

@mojo5pro I'm a little surprised to hear that you are experiencing the opposite. Maybe give them a wipe of Fork Juice or something similar?

I was a little hesitant in getting the NCR version due to the price difference but I have to say that a quick shakedown has left me very, very impressed. From what I can tell (with just setting sag and guessing the compression/rebound by feel), it's a very, very well behaved fork.

I'll take it for a proper spin later in the week, get everything dialed in and I'll report back if there's anything unusual/exceptional.


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

What are the difference between the 2014 and 2015 350 CR and why would I prefer the one over the other?


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## feville (Jan 13, 2015)

M1_joel said:


> There are 4 seals in the SKF kit. i had my mechanic do the replacement so I can't speak to any details of the process.


I'm interested to get your feedback on the SKF seals as its an upgrade I'd consider come service time.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Swissam said:


> Is the NCR TI more user friendly? I only buy forks that I can service myself. Which is why I never buy Fox and only buy RS or Zoke because of this. It would be sad to see Zoke become service center only forks.


not necessarily. all our forks require service intervals of approximately 100 hours so the user friendly part is there across the board. As far as oil changes, all our products use that interference fit foot nut. our techs use an air torque gun to remove them and install them with a set pressure.

I agree with you too on the service center only issue.. I don't want to say we are not going that way but part of what we have is a corporate structure that is set up to limit information on repair only for liability reasons. We are working on what we can release to the public and what we release to shops and are setting up training programs for shops and creating training videos for our Youtube page: https://www.youtube.com/user/MarzocchiSusp/videos


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

CS645 said:


> What are the difference between the 2014 and 2015 350 CR and why would I prefer the one over the other?


stanchion coating and price is the only difference. the 2015 came down in cost because of the stanchion treatment.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

looperx said:


> If i install a spacer and lower the travel of the fork from 160mm to 150mm this will also affect the good and plush operation of it?


no, it won't effect the plushness of the fork. all it is doing is limiting the travel. make sure you have it done professionally though. Even though the actual change is simple if it isn't done right it can cause issues and you could get denied warranty if you did the work yourself. call it CYA insurance and let the shop do the work.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> Just purchased the 350 CR's. Fitted but not ridden as not finished build yet. But just pushing hard on bars with front wheel against wall they feel very notchy/dry with a lot of stiction.
> Do they improve very much with bedding in or is a case of poor oil/seal lube from factory?
> Is the SKF seals a noticeable improvement?
> 
> cheers


once broken in they should be fine, I have noticed that out of the box the CR models feel "dry" but once they get working they work good. if they never fully feel right we can do a warranty hop up to them where we disassemble them and lube the insides up real good. The only thing I can think of for this is that given the low oil levels in the DBC system out of the box they have a small amount of stiction but once cycled repeatedly while riding the DBC system has a chance to open up and work and lube everything up.

cheers!

-DM


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

Were there too many stanchion coat problems on the 2014 gold?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Steve.E said:


> I slightly damaged the nut too but lucky wasn't putting much torque on it, the fork was easy to service from then on (dropped travel and added oil.)


did you get the nut replaced? I'd recommend that just in case


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

socalMX said:


> Were there too many stanchion coat problems on the 2014 gold?


nothing extravagant. I think the animal we made it with went extinct or something more to that effect.

J/K

we wanted to create two different lines within one family similar to what Fox did with Factory and Evolution.

We developed the Espresso coating because its color is more consistent over a large volume where the GRC had lots of variations. We then just went back to our natural hard ano finish for the less expensive models because the standard hard ano is just that...less expensive, so we can create a killer product at a value conscience level that flat out works and then have a high level product for the top-tier products.


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

Good to know! I am local to Long Beach and will be dropping off my 350 CR to have it lowered to 150mm once I get the email confirmation.

Question, do the shock eyelets match the size of Fox and RS? That is without reducers/spacers. I had a BOS shock that did not fit my 2015 Kona Process due to the oddball eyelet size, those crazy French... I do want the new shock out back!


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> not necessarily. all our forks require service intervals of approximately 100 hours so the user friendly part is there across the board. As far as oil changes, all our products use that interference fit foot nut. our techs use an air torque gun to remove them and install them with a set pressure.
> 
> I agree with you too on the service center only issue.. I don't want to say we are not going that way but part of what we have is a corporate structure that is set up to limit information on repair only for liability reasons. We are working on what we can release to the public and what we release to shops and are setting up training programs for shops and creating training videos for our Youtube page: https://www.youtube.com/user/MarzocchiSusp/videos


It would be nice if you did something similar to sram and make videos detailing a complete tear down and rebuild. However I fear that might not be the case. Sounds like liability lawyers talking legal B.S. "Can't breath cause someone will sue us". Soon we won't be allowed to think cause it might hurt someone.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Swissam said:


> It would be nice if you did something similar to sram and make videos detailing a complete tear down and rebuild. However I fear that might not be the case. Sounds like liability lawyers talking legal B.S. "Can't breath cause someone will sue us". Soon we won't be allowed to think cause it might hurt someone.


we are working on that actually.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

socalMX said:


> Good to know! I am local to Long Beach and will be dropping off my 350 CR to have it lowered to 150mm once I get the email confirmation.
> 
> Question, do the shock eyelets match the size of Fox and RS? That is without reducers/spacers. I had a BOS shock that did not fit my 2015 Kona Process due to the oddball eyelet size, those crazy French... I do want the new shock out back!


sweet deal!

our eyelet is the same size as Fox. I actually use Fox reducer hardware and bushings in my shocks.


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

Awesome! The Kona Process line uses NO reducers or hardware at the lower mounting point so all good. Now for you to hurry and get the new shocks out!


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

feville said:


> I'm interested to get your feedback on the SKF seals as its an upgrade I'd consider come service time.


The fork felt good before but i felt better about it with a better seals and Molykote. I am familiar with SKF because i use their bearings at my work and I know they make great stuff. Expensive but one of the best.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> we are working on that actually.


Sweet! That's good news. Now if we could just get some reviews on the NCR Ti.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

socalMX said:


> Awesome! The Kona Process line uses NO reducers or hardware at the lower mounting point so all good. Now for you to hurry and get the new shocks out!


word to that! I want mine too


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

working on that too. I am going to get some scheduled here on MTBR and hopefully some other sites.


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Hi Marzocchi_USA,
Will you have available a shock for the Nomad MK3 specs?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

artishouk said:


> Hi Marzocchi_USA,
> Will you have available a shock for the Nomad MK3 specs?


yes, we will offer the new 053 and already offer the Roco Air TST R


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## Garyorange5 (Jan 28, 2015)

Hi Marzocchi_USA

I have a quick question regarding a set of 350CR 2014 model. Fitted a new set to a frame last week. On compressing the fork, a clicking noise can be heard from inside the stanchion. After a few compressions, the noise stops. Any ideas if there is anything I can do to stop this (oil levels or something) or will it require sending the new fork back?

Thanks


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## feville (Jan 13, 2015)

Garyorange5 said:


> Hi Marzocchi_USA
> 
> I have a quick question regarding a set of 350CR 2014 model. Fitted a new set to a frame last week. On compressing the fork, a clicking noise can be heard from inside the stanchion. After a few compressions, the noise stops. Any ideas if there is anything I can do to stop this (oil levels or something) or will it require sending the new fork back?
> 
> Thanks


Hi there

My 350CR did the exact same thing when I first fitted it. Haven't heard the noise again and I've been out with them 4 times since clocking up around 12hrs of riding time. Guess it just needs cycling a bit to get lubed up after transit?


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## Garyorange5 (Jan 28, 2015)

feville said:


> Hi there
> 
> My 350CR did the exact same thing when I first fitted it. Haven't heard the noise again and I've been out with them 4 times since clocking up around 12hrs of riding time. Guess it just needs cycling a bit to get lubed up after transit?


I did guess this might be the case. Did wonder if there was a lack of fluid keeping the bushes/seals lubed up?


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## feville (Jan 13, 2015)

Garyorange5 said:


> I did guess this might be the case. Did wonder if there was a lack of fluid keeping the bushes/seals lubed up?


From what I've read a few people have dropped the lowers to find suspected low oil levels, however I think removing the lowers is a "service centre only" job and could invalidate your warranty.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

same in my CR, I guess it's the negative coil engaging/disengaging to produce the clicking... I've only a coule of rides on it, if it keeps clicking I'll open it (again) to try solve it someway...


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Got my 2015 350 NCR yesterday and its a very good looking fork! It came with a remote. 
I installed it immediately on my Turner Burner to replace a XF Sweep. 
My initial impressions after a short "trail" around the neighborhood:

1. Its plush. Practically no need for breaking in. Is it the Espresso coat? the SKF seals? Whatever it is, its buttery. Its plushness is immediately noticeable coming from the Sweep fork (with the tweaked shimstack, mind you). Is it as plush/smooth as my 55 RC3Ti coil fork? Its very close. Its that good. 

2. The fork seems to ride a bit high in the travel and brake dive control is good. The damper is behaved under pedalling and light braking forces. Much like the XF Sweep's midvalve in this regard. 

3. The "lockout" doesnt seem to do much. When you activate it, i think it merely adds 2 or so clicks of LSC. In a LSC range of around 24 clicks, this is too small a difference to be useful on the fly for climbing. Its a good thing I hardly ever use a lockout and the fork is well-behaved under pedalling. The remote is coming off very soon. (EDIT: The lockout works. As adviced by Marzocchi_USA, the cable has to be tight. Pull it firmly using pliers as you tighten the grub bolt and adjust the barrel adjuster accordingly. With this, the lockout gives a firm platform. NICE!)

Overall, pending several real rides in the mountains, I LIKE IT. Marzocchi is back.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> 3. The "lockout" doesnt seem to do much. When you activate it, i think it merely adds 2 or so clicks of LSC. In a LSC range of around 24 clicks, this is too small a difference to be useful on the fly for climbing. Its a good thing I hardly ever use a lockout and the fork is well-behaved under pedalling. The remote is coming off very soon.


That's really odd, my lockout really does just that. It's a complete lockout and you really have to beast it to blow off and move. I have to admit that I didn't plan to use the remote so I switched it with the manual lockout dial that was included in the box.

I didn't even try the remote lockout, so I can't really say if it behaved in the same way as yours, I just assume that they are supposed to react similarly.

Following the video on YouTube, the switch took about 6-7 minutes (with 3-4 minutes trying to locate the spring retaining nut). It's an absolute doddle.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

henkster said:


> That's really odd, my lockout really does just that. It's a complete lockout and you really have to beast it to blow off and move. I have to admit that I didn't plan to use the remote so I switched it with the manual lockout dial that was included in the box.
> 
> I didn't even try the remote lockout, so I can't really say if it behaved in the same way as yours, I just assume that they are supposed to react similarly.
> 
> Following the video on YouTube, the switch took about 6-7 minutes (with 3-4 minutes trying to locate the spring retaining nut). It's an absolute doddle.


Well, thats disconcerting. I may have done something wrong connecting the lockout remote?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Garyorange5 said:


> Hi Marzocchi_USA
> 
> I have a quick question regarding a set of 350CR 2014 model. Fitted a new set to a frame last week. On compressing the fork, a clicking noise can be heard from inside the stanchion. After a few compressions, the noise stops. Any ideas if there is anything I can do to stop this (oil levels or something) or will it require sending the new fork back?
> 
> Thanks


was the fork reduced in travel at all? send an email to [email protected] and if possible describe the click as best you can or shoot a video in a quiet room and email that as well.

Assuming the fork is installed properly and the headset is correct and tight and the bar is tight and all bolts are greased and the wheel is secure.

does the noise show up at random or every time you ride or only when you first compress the fork? be really specific in your email so we can trouble shoot it for you.

-DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

feville said:


> Hi there
> 
> My 350CR did the exact same thing when I first fitted it. Haven't heard the noise again and I've been out with them 4 times since clocking up around 12hrs of riding time. Guess it just needs cycling a bit to get lubed up after transit?


that is very possible. the DBC system needs to be cycled to get the oil to circulate throughout the whole fork and lube everything up inside it. if you hear or feel anything wonky make sure to contact [email protected] or call us (unless you are outside the US then just check our web site for your local service center).

chances are better than not the fork must needs circulation to engage the DBC. the forks are pretty dry when shipped. They have all the oil in them and they are cycled during final QC but they do make a long trip from Taiwan to the US or Italy.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> same in my CR, I guess it's the negative coil engaging/disengaging to produce the clicking... I've only a coule of rides on it, if it keeps clicking I'll open it (again) to try solve it someway...


if it keeps clicking please contact your tech center, you probably will need to send it in so we can see what's up with it. the only thing I can think of is if you aired it up too much the negative coil popped out (as you say). I have only seen that once and it was after we did a travel reduction on it, I've never seen it out of the box but stranger things happen so it is possible. The big thing is to not take it apart yourself but have a shop do it for you so it can be covered under warranty. If you do it yourself and it gets messed up it will void the warranty. Our new corporate structure is still working on the logistics of end-user maintenance and currently only trained/authorized service centers can do the work (if you have a warranty claim at least).


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> Got my 2015 350 NCR yesterday and its a very good looking fork! It came with a remote.
> I installed it immediately on my Turner Burner to replace a XF Sweep.
> My initial impressions after a short "trail" around the neighborhood:
> 
> ...


Sounds positive! you are experiencing the IFP/NCR system in that anti-brake dive and under pedaling. For your lockout, it does have a blow off but when it is installed, you need to click it and lock it then unlock it and redo the cable pulling it tight a second time as the cable will stretch. check out this video we put out on how to install it:


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

henkster said:


> That's really odd, my lockout really does just that. It's a complete lockout and you really have to beast it to blow off and move. I have to admit that I didn't plan to use the remote so I switched it with the manual lockout dial that was included in the box.
> 
> I didn't even try the remote lockout, so I can't really say if it behaved in the same way as yours, I just assume that they are supposed to react similarly.
> 
> Following the video on YouTube, the switch took about 6-7 minutes (with 3-4 minutes trying to locate the spring retaining nut). It's an absolute doddle.


I have ridden both (I have the remote on my 320 LCR and the fork mount lever on my 350 NCR) and to me I feel that the lever has a more positive engagement in the lock and for sure needs a more robust hit to blow it off as opposed to the remote. I think it has to do with the cable tension.


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

feville said:


> From what I've read a few people have dropped the lowers to find suspected low oil levels, however I think removing the lowers is a "service centre only" job and could invalidate your warranty.


Dropping the lowers to refresh the lube oil is a service centre only job???

Can this be confirmed please?

I thought they were talking about cracking open the cartridge as being service centre only earlier in the thread.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

shirk said:


> Dropping the lowers to refresh the lube oil is a service centre only job???
> 
> Can this be confirmed please?
> 
> I thought they were talking about cracking open the cartridge as being service centre only earlier in the thread.


I have been informed that anytime a fork is opened it needs to be by an authorized center. This is the deal here in N. America. I can't say for sure in the rest of the world but it only stands to reason the same case would hold true. There are different liability laws in the UK and elsewhere though. I'd check with Windwave for sure as they are teh official center for the UK for us.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Sounds positive! you are experiencing the IFP/NCR system in that anti-brake dive and under pedaling. For your lockout, it does have a blow off but when it is installed, you need to click it and lock it then unlock it and redo the cable pulling it tight a second time as the cable will stretch. check out this video we put out on how to install it:


Yup. Followed that video and I adjusted the barrel adjuster to account for cable stretch. 
Does the lockout really just increase the gold LSC knob a few turns or does it actuate a different mechanism inside?


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

Dropping the lowers being a "service centre only" job seems a bit ridiculous to me, especially as some forks are dry out of the box and need oil and seals lubing (which appears to be the case with mine). It's bad enough that this needs to be done in the first place, let alone having to send your forks off to a service centre.


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## Brake-neck (Jan 16, 2015)

Yeah I don't get it either, I buy a fork then I have to send it to a service centre immediately because it has no oil/grease and I can't drop the lowers!?!?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> Dropping the lowers being a "service centre only" job seems a bit ridiculous to me, especially as some forks are dry out of the box and need oil and seals lubing (which appears to be the case with mine). It's bad enough that this needs to be done in the first place, let alone having to send your forks off to a service centre.


I don't make or enforce the rules, I'm just here to help. to me it seems over the top also and I do agree with you as do others here but it has everything to do with the corporate structure and rules from our parent company.

The service is something we do as a warranty so it is a free service if asked (at least here in the US) but it also is something we have seen maybe 2 out of 50 times so it is a rare case.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Brake-neck said:


> Yeah I don't get it either, I buy a fork then I have to send it to a service centre immediately because it has no oil/grease and I can't drop the lowers!?!?


there is grease and oil in the forks, it is a circulation deal, not a unfinished product deal. the forks just need to be pumped or ridden for a little bit (not much) just to get the oil circulating throughout to further lube the insides. This is pretty normal.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> Yup. Followed that video and I adjusted the barrel adjuster to account for cable stretch.
> Does the lockout really just increase the gold LSC knob a few turns or does it actuate a different mechanism inside?


It closes down the compression piston in full, it doesn't have anything to do with the knob itself


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## shirk (Mar 24, 2004)

Thanks for the reply.

Alex and Naz are only a few blocks away here in N.Van, but I really enjoy doing my own service. Will have to stop in and chat with them.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

shirk said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Alex and Naz are only a few blocks away here in N.Van, but I really enjoy doing my own service. Will have to stop in and chat with them.


good deal, They will know the official rules for Canada. I can only speak for the US.


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> It closes down the compression piston in full, it doesn't have anything to do with the knob itself


Hmmm. Perhaps I need to take a much closer look at that remote and how I installed it. The remote lock definitely doest feel anything like closed or locked. Thanks.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> Hmmm. Perhaps I need to take a much closer look at that remote and how I installed it. The remote lock definitely doest feel anything like closed or locked. Thanks.


it should have a definitive lock but that lock will blow off after a hard enough hit. check your cable tension and watch that video also:






if it just isn't right, call our tech department, something could be wonky inside the fork.

cheers!

-DM


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

OK. All's well. I retightened the cable and grub bolt and tightened the barrel adjuster and its now a real lockout. Excellent! Although I seldom use a lockout, its good to have anyway.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> OK. All's well. I retightened the cable and grub bolt and tightened the barrel adjuster and its now a real lockout. Excellent! Although I seldom use a lockout, its good to have anyway.


I'm happy to hear that! Usually it is just cable tension.

I only have the remote installed on my bike to show it to people. I never use it either.

happy riding!

-DM


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I have a PDF of it. the shock is essentially our Moto but as an air sprung unit.
> email me at [email protected] and I can send you the PDF


Hi, did you get my email?


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

A few questions. Does the lower bath mix with the damping oil on the 350ncr? Is that why you specifically spec Molykote? Also, can you remove the remote and not run it?

On the 053 shock, I am concerned about the reservoir hitting my frame at bottom out. Is this reservoir shorter than the Monarch Plus reservoir? Thanks


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Could you please tell me which parts do I have to buy to convert the lock out to manual? Thanks!


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> A few questions. Does the lower bath mix with the damping oil on the 350ncr? Is that why you specifically spec Molykote? Also, can you remove the remote and not run it?
> 
> On the 053 shock, I am concerned about the reservoir hitting my frame at bottom out. Is this reservoir shorter than the Monarch Plus reservoir? Thanks


Moly kote is the cats ass. This will be my new service lube for anything with rubber seals. Buy some!! It not cheap. The nice thing about moly kote is you can mix with fork oil to make it thinner if needed. For example you could use it in the AER system. The damper is a separate unit NOT open bath system I recomend Moly kote on the seals and 25cc oil in each leg.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

i will definitely try the molykote. Just wondering why it would matter if it was slick honey or molykote if it is completely isolated from damper.

What oil is used in lower? I read a mention of torco, but any specifics? If it is separate from damper, because of such little oil in lowers, i want to use fox gold which has a ton of tackifiers which will cling to the bushings.


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

Molykote 55 specifically


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## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> i will definitely try the molykote. Just wondering why it would matter if it was slick honey or molykote if it is completely isolated from damper.
> 
> What oil is used in lower? I read a mention of torco, but any specifics? If it is separate from damper, because of such little oil in lowers, i want to use fox gold which has a ton of tackifiers which will cling to the bushings.


Ya I don't personally get to techy with oil in lowers. Im just using some 7wt stuff right now. I got to be honest the slick honey doesn't work as well as the molykote. Cant wait to try it in some other forks. Marzo says the slick honey is to thick and might clog up the fork. But I have yet to see (where) this could be an issue. Biggest benefit I saw to the molykote was in the AER system. I figured out a proper (cc) amount that I use for my riding style and mix it with some fork oil too lube the AER system.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> Also, can you remove the remote and not run it?





looperx said:


> Could you please tell me which parts do I have to buy to convert the lock out to manual? Thanks!


Yep, I switched the remote to manual the first night I fitted the fork. It's super quick and easy, just follow the video. The manual lockout goodies come in the box with the fork, you just remove the remote assembly from the top of the stantion (which is 85% of the job) and then just pop the manual level back on top.

It really is THAT easy. 10 mins tops and won't cost you a cent


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

@Marzocchi_USA, what's the plan with the dropper post? 

Looks good and I'm in the market for a post for the new build. I've read that it'll only be available in 30.9, but are there plans for a 31.6?

What's the MSRP and weight?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I haven't managed to print green decals Marzocchi_USA sent me yet, but I can post just a nice pic of my Sensor with 350CR. I even got used to GRC and red decals.

View attachment 960934


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Ok so my 2nd set of 2014 350CR are getting the streak like wear again on the back of the stanchions after just 2 months of use.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

looperx said:


> Could you please tell me which parts do I have to buy to convert the lock out to manual? Thanks!


part number 549274/P they are about $40 USD.

the video to do it is here:






cheers!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> i will definitely try the molykote. Just wondering why it would matter if it was slick honey or molykote if it is completely isolated from damper.
> 
> What oil is used in lower? I read a mention of torco, but any specifics? If it is separate from damper, because of such little oil in lowers, i want to use fox gold which has a ton of tackifiers which will cling to the bushings.


Slick Honey has been known to break down a bit and clog ports, at least in our forks.

We use Torco (we also sell it in 16oz bottles direct too).


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

What ports is it clogging if i use it in the lowers? Im trying to get a better idea of how the chassis works on the new 350. I could see that happening on the old open bath forks because the lowers and damping oil is the same. But in the new 350, isnt the lower oil completely sealed from the damper? Im not dead set on using slick honey. Im just trying to understand the difference between old forks and new forks.


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Also, is it torco rff or a custom blend for Marzocchi?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> A few questions. Does the lower bath mix with the damping oil on the 350ncr? Is that why you specifically spec Molykote? Also, can you remove the remote and not run it?
> 
> On the 053 shock, I am concerned about the reservoir hitting my frame at bottom out. Is this reservoir shorter than the Monarch Plus reservoir? Thanks


yes to your first question. Our Dynamic Bleed Cartridge (DBC) has one-way bleed valves that push small amounts of oil out from the top of the fork then that oil is cycled throughout the fork and pulled back in via a 1-way valve at the bottom of the cartridge. semi-open bath lubrication that way.

the res. on the 053 is smaller than the Monarch Plus. I'll grab one and measure it in a few..

053 measurements...

the piggyback is 3" long, 2.5" wide and the total circumference of the shock around the piggyback at the S3 lever is 9"

hope this helps

-DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> What ports is it clogging if i use it in the lowers? Im trying to get a better idea of how the chassis works on the new 350. I could see that happening on the old open bath forks because the lowers and damping oil is the same. But in the new 350, isnt the lower oil completely sealed from the damper? Im not dead set on using slick honey. Im just trying to understand the difference between old forks and new forks.


It has been known to clog the DBC system and work its way into the valving. We are not 100% against it, just that we have seen it and haven't seen that with Molykote.

the old forks were full open bath where our new stuff is semi-open bath where we have a sealed cartridge that has one-way valves that bleed off oil as it expands to lubricate the outside of the cartridge and keep the fork lubricated, also why we use about 20-30CC oil in the lowers


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Gotcha. Thanks for the great description! Im curious to try the molykote55. Torco rff 7wt ok?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> Gotcha. Thanks for the great description! Im curious to try the molykote55. Torco rff 7wt ok?


yeah, 7.5 is perfect, it's what we spec here. cheers!

-DM


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## 92SE-R (Sep 23, 2005)

Does marzocchi have a special blend? Torco only makes a 7wt


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

I've lubed the seals and added oil to my new 350 CR's. I used the molykote on the seals and added 25 mls of oil to each leg. I've kept the original seals and not replaced with SKF.
It's made a big improvement to the smoothness of the fork.


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## dillonthomson24 (Feb 3, 2015)

What upgrades are available for my 350 R? Can I install an air cartridge or a NCR damper etc? I have a 55cr, are any parts interchangeable?

Loving them both by the way - best forks I've ever ridden just the 350R is lacking something and I don't know what..


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

92SE-R said:


> Does marzocchi have a special blend? Torco only makes a 7wt


it is a custom blend we developed with them. it uses special additives and other things.

the 7 would work but it isn't quite the same.

We sell our specific blend here in the US in 16oz bottles.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

dillonthomson24 said:


> What upgrades are available for my 350 R? Can I install an air cartridge or a NCR damper etc? I have a 55cr, are any parts interchangeable?
> 
> Loving them both by the way - best forks I've ever ridden just the 350R is lacking something and I don't know what..


you can replace anything inside the R with parts from the CR or NCR. the cost for a full NCR upgrade is just over $600 however plus labor. I priced it out for someone once.

to drop a Ti spring in it you are looking at about $240 or so also.

I'll have to figure out the CR upgrade price. I am sure it is much more reasonable though 

-DM


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## dillonthomson24 (Feb 3, 2015)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> you can replace anything inside the R with parts from the CR or NCR. the cost for a full NCR upgrade is just over $600 however plus labor. I priced it out for someone once.
> 
> to drop a Ti spring in it you are looking at about $240 or so also.
> 
> ...


Cheers. So I could buy the air spring and swap the damping cart with the one from the 55?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

dillonthomson24 said:


> Cheers. So I could buy the air spring and swap the damping cart with the one from the 55?


We haven't tried that but it is pretty much the same stuff. I need to double check the part numbers but I bet ithey are the exact same. I'll try to check it all out in a bit and report back.

-DM


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> it is a custom blend we developed with them. it uses special additives and other things.
> 
> the 7 would work but it isn't quite the same.
> 
> We sell our specific blend here in the US in 16oz bottles.


Marzocchi Bomber Factory Fork Oil 7 5wt 16oz | eBay

Can you please advise if this is one of the same or have you got a new product for the latest generation forks.

Thanks.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

gvs_nz said:


> Marzocchi Bomber Factory Fork Oil 7 5wt 16oz | eBay
> 
> Can you please advise if this is one of the same or have you got a new product for the latest generation forks.
> 
> Thanks.


We have new product. that is a really old bottle. the oil in that is probably the Golden Spectro and could be more than 4 years old, probably older. It would be fine to use I imagine but all the new bottles in the last year have been shipping (in the US) with black labels. If you are in the US you can just order some up directly from us too.


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## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

What you guys think about this deal?
Seems like its a lot cheaper then when it first came out. Plus I can change travel if I change the bike anytime soon 

Marzocchi 44 Micro STA 29r 140mm Tapered White Fork 2014 | Marzocchi


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

BlowtorchBob said:


> What you guys think about this deal?
> Seems like its a lot cheaper then when it first came out. Plus I can change travel if I change the bike anytime soon
> 
> Marzocchi 44 Micro STA 29r 140mm Tapered White Fork 2014 | Marzocchi


those are sweet forks for sure. the travel change is on the fly also


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## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

Umergerd its murzochi!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

BlowtorchBob said:


> Umergerd its murzochi!


kind of like the Spanish Inquisition... https://www.skepdick.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/spanish-inquisition.jpg


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

gvs_nz said:


> Marzocchi Bomber Factory Fork Oil 7 5wt 16oz | eBay
> 
> Can you please advise if this is one of the same or have you got a new product for the latest generation forks.
> 
> Thanks.


FYI we sell 16Oz bottles to the US at $15 each plus shipping


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## dillonthomson24 (Feb 3, 2015)

Any update on those parts? Especially the damper.


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## Oppet (Jan 12, 2007)

Update on my worn/noisy upper legs on 2014 cr. I got new ncr legs installed.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

dillonthomson24 said:


> Any update on those parts? Especially the damper.


sorry, yeah. if you have a 350 R you would need these parts:

CR damper assembly parts:
8501758/p: knob kit, $42.00
8032358/p: compression unit: $112
5182252/p: main damper tube assembly: $52
8032297/p: DBC rebound unit: $112
8501619/p: DBC fixing kit: $23
5322106/p: foot nut: $18
549225/p: rebound knob: $24

for an AER assembly to convert from coil to air:

549270/p: top cap: $28
7019761/p: air top cap assembly: $45
5182238/p: air cartridge assembly: $52
8032278/p: AER Piston assembly: $112
8501444/p: foot nut: $15

all prices are USD retail.

all assembly/work MUST be done by a Marzocchi certified dealer/tech center and not by the end user as per warranty specifications.


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

Is part 5322106/p the foot nut for the rebound side, the knurled one that the rebound adjuster sits in?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> Is part 5322106/p the foot nut for the rebound side, the knurled one that the rebound adjuster sits in?


Yes sir


----------



## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

great thanks.
I currently have the 350 CR. Thinking of getting the NCR also. What are the differences in ride characteristics between the air NCR and ti NCR? Is there a noticeable more linear stroke with the Ti coil than the air NCR?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

oddly enough the air feels more linear than the coil, at least in the two that I have ridden on. I rode a prototype air model and it was super progressive but the new one I have is a production model off the floor and it is much more linear than I was expecting but I actually really like it a lot more than the coil model which feels more progressive. The Ti coil has a harshness that would be perfect for racers that want to go really fast, when I opened it up on real high speed sections and just trusted the fork it was good, stiff and took everything on I could take (admittedly I don't ride as aggressively now in my 40's as I did in my 20's). 

I have been riding that air model lately and don't want to give it back. it stays high in the travel and is wicked plush at the same time.


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

thanks,does the 350 NCR air always come with an additional manual lock-out lever in the box?


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## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> oddly enough the air feels more linear than the coil, at least in the two that I have ridden on. I rode a prototype air model and it was super progressive but the new one I have is a production model off the floor and it is much more linear than I was expecting but I actually really like it a lot more than the coil model which feels more progressive. The Ti coil has a harshness that would be perfect for racers that want to go really fast, when I opened it up on real high speed sections and just trusted the fork it was good, stiff and took everything on I could take (admittedly I don't ride as aggressively now in my 40's as I did in my 20's).
> 
> I have been riding that air model lately and don't want to give it back. it stays high in the travel and is wicked plush at the same time.


Thats exactly how I feel with my NCR. Plush, yet stays high in the travel. Wonderful. 
I havent really dialled it up yet. I just put everything in the middle (low speed compression, rebound) and recommended psi in the air chamber. And it already feels great! Plus the ability to play with the high speed comp stack. 
If durability is proven, this is a winning product.


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

same here.
I got a CR and before trying it I was thinking about a coil conversion... but now I've used it for a couple of rides I don't think it needs conversion. It feels very linear, just as I like my forks to be.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> thanks,does the 350 NCR air always come with an additional manual lock-out lever in the box?


I can't speak for every fork, but mine came with the lock-out lever in the box.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> thanks,does the 350 NCR air always come with an additional manual lock-out lever in the box?


they all should have the kit in the box. we have a video on our Youtube.com station that shows how to install it.


----------



## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I've got a question. What fork oil to use, I know it should be 7.5w, but may be some specific brands would be more preferrable?

Would this be good enough?
Motulhttps://www.motul.com/us/en-us/products/oils-lubricants/fork-oil-factory-line-light-medium-7-5w'
or
Motorex
MOTOREX


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

graved1gger said:


> I've got a question. What fork oil to use, I know it should be 7.5w, but may be some specific brands would be more preferrable?
> 
> Would this be good enough?
> Motulhttps://www.motul.com/us/en-us/products/oils-lubricants/fork-oil-factory-line-light-medium-7-5w'
> ...


Previously been discussed.Check posts in the last 2 weeks .


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

gvs_nz said:


> Previously been discussed.Check posts in the last 2 weeks .


1st - molykote 55 for seals.

2nd - fork oil: old - Golden Spectro, new - Torco.

But I'm asking about alternatives... no alternatives to Torco were discussed.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> I've got a question. What fork oil to use, I know it should be 7.5w, but may be some specific brands would be more preferrable?
> 
> Would this be good enough?
> Motulhttps://www.motul.com/us/en-us/products/oils-lubricants/fork-oil-factory-line-light-medium-7-5w'
> ...


I'm sure that would be good, it is what Manitou used to use I know that. Motorex is pretty good stuff, they make a prep grease that is really nice also.

We specifically use Torco, a custom blend. We do sell it directly here in the US also.

part number: 0204000 at $14.95/16oz bottle.


----------



## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

Marzocchi_USA:

First of all I wanted to say that I'm stoked to see Marzocchi getting back in the game! I used to ride a Z1 bomber on a Deep Cove Stiffee back in 2000 and it was the first "real" fork that I ever experienced. It definitely saved my ass more than a couple times back in the days of dropping to flat on the North Shore!

I'm in the process of speccing out a Nomad 3 and I would love to put a 350 NCR on the front of it but there a number of things holding me back:


There are pretty much no credible reviews of the fork available. All that I can find with a lot of poking around the internet are a couple short, but positive ride reports. The best thing I've got to go on is the overall positive review that Pinkbike gave the 380. I know that you've said earlier in this thread that you're working on this, but it's hard to emphasize enough how important it is. In particular I would love to see reviews on NSMB and Vital MTB since I find their reviews are more straight up and lacking in BS. Getting it reviewed on Pinkbike would be great too simply for the amount of exposure it would get you. Unfortunatley even if all those sites received the forks tomorrow it would still be sevral months until the reviews came out... 
Is there any way to change the progressiveness of the stroke? Pretty much every other high end, air sprung fork on the market offers this and it seems like a really useful tuning feature. The Manitou Mattoc has a hydraulic bottom out adjustment; The MRP Stage offers a ramp control dial; Rock Shox and Fox both allow for this by using volume spacers; DVO has the off the top adjustment etc. Earlier in this thread ShaneJ mentioned using oil to tune the volume of the the air spring, but I get the impression that that isn't an officially supported option...
And that brings us to the big one... *Not being able to open up your own fork to change the oil without voiding the warranty*. I live in Nelson, BC and neither of the shops in town carry Marzocchi forks and I'm really not interested in shipping my fork to Vancouver for something as simple as an oil change. Beyond that, many of us have learned to do our own mechanical work because we enjoy tinkering and aren't interested in paying shop rates for labor. This becomes even more challenging to wrap your head around when you imagine being away from home on a road trip or for racing.

The way this policy works is also unclear. For example: Vorsprung is a reputable suspension tuner based in Whistler that offers reasonably priced, custom suspension tuning using a dyno to achieve a balanced front and rear suspension setup. If I had my fork tuned there would it void my warranty since they are not an "authorized" service centre?

Beyond the details of all this, the policy shows a lack of respect for the customer. I know that you have said that it's a legal issue, but I'm not aware of any other major suspension manufacturer that has this policy and you are all operating within the same legal framework. 


As an additional note I really don't understand the point of adding a lockout switch to a 160mm fork. I've never found fork movement when climbing to be a huge issue and you've stated earlier that the IFP helps separate pedalling forces from trail forces. That weight and design effort would be much better invested in adding some type of adjustment to the progressiveness of the stroke or providing external control of the high speed compression.

I understand that you are not personally responsible for the making all these decisions and that most of them come down from the head office. You've done an amazing job of being a point person for Marzocchi in this thread and it would be great if you can communicate these concerns with the higher ups and get some official answers.

The 350 is a aesthetically beautiful fork, and I like the idea of having a black Nomad specced with a 350 up front and an 053 in the back; partially just to have something a little different and because I've enjoyed using Marzzochi products in the past. Unfortunately, as it currently stands this isn't enough to overcome the concerns that I've listed above and motivate me to go the effort of selling off a highly rated Fox 36. Especially since I'll probably end up taking a financial hit selling an OEM fork and buying a 350 at retail.

It would be great if you could come back with answers that convince me to take the plunge. I know that I'm not alone in these concerns, and for me they are preventing me from making the decision to buy the fork. With Marzocchi trying to make a comeback every sale really matters. More forks sold means more of them being seen and discussed on the trail and at races, and that equals more buzz, both in person and on the net. In time hopefully that means more OEM specs, the Pike being a great example of this. If the new forks are a good as people are saying they just need more exposure to get Marzocchi back on the upswing!

Thanks for taking the time to read all this and for being so responsive in this thread. One last thought: it might make sense to get this thread moved to the suspension forum where more people are likely to see it. It's kinda buried here in the 27.5 forum and I only found it because I was searching for info on the 350.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> Marzocchi_USA:
> 
> First of all I wanted to say that I'm stoked to see Marzocchi getting back in the game! I used to ride a Z1 bomber on a Deep Cove Stiffee back in 2000 and it was the first "real" fork that I ever experienced. It definitely saved my ass more than a couple times back in the days of dropping to flat on the North Shore!
> 
> ...


...................
dang, quite a lot there to take in at once. I'll do my best here. ..
Independent tests.. this is one thing I have been working on. I already proposed this to MTBR about a shoot out or full head to head test with our two NCR models against other top forks and Forrest here at MTBR liked the idea so hopefully we can move forward soon with that.

custom tuning/changing the actual progressivness.. yes, there is a custom tuning option our office in Canada can offer you if the stock fork isn't quite how you want it. I don't know what the cost is for them as it may vary according to needs. Here in the US we can offer a full custom tune for about $150 USD depending on any parts necessary (shims, etc..). The fork itself has an amazing range with its compression damping adjuster. I have spent time on both the Ti coil and the Air NCR models and I find the air more linear but with a deep, steep progressive ramp at the end of the travel. The Ti model I find to be very progressive and super active (like our old forks were, roll over a dime and it will move). My personal riding style fits the air fork best (I am more XC than DH these days after a major spinal cord injury a few years back) and I would actually describe the difference between the two forks as just that: the air is more XC than DH and the Ti is more DH than XC. I have been riding both as stock, out of the box units.

As far as warranty, that is the official statement I have; the product is to only be serviced by a Marzocchi dealer. If they are an actual trained service center then fantastic they can do the work directly with no worries. If they are not and they are just a dealer, then I would imagine that shop will send the fork in or contact our office for assistance. I have seen both things happen here in the US. This type of warranty is very typical of corporate structured companies and yes, I have nothing to do with it, I am just the messenger and looking to help all of you reading this, riders and potential riders of Marzocchi. CYA insurance..have a dealer do the work and cover your arse in the case of any warranty option. If the product is out of the 2-year warranty period then don't worry about it and do your own work. Corporate, company policy though:

as quoted directly: http://www.marzocchi.com/system2/25352/2016_MTB_9001458_FORK_ED00_L02_UK_MANUAL.pdf

section 5

WARNING!
The operations listed below accompanied by this symbol*
should only be performed by authorized MARZOCCHI service
centers.

General maintenance operation
Use
Intense Normal
Check that screws are tightened to required
torque Before every ride
Stanchions cleaning After every ride
Air pressure control Before
every ride 10 hours
Cleaning and lubrication of sealing rings Before
every ride
Every two
ride
Oil seals control 25 hours 50 hours
Oil change 50 hours 100 hours
Cartridge oil replacement 25 hours 50 hours
Fork oil seals cartridge replacement 50 hours 100 hours
Table 8 - Periodic maintenance table
Part to be tightened Tightening torque
(Nm)
Fork's top caps 25 ± 1
Adjuster locking screws 2 ± 0,5
Pumping rod / cartridge foot nuts 10 ± 1
Pumping rod foot screws 10 ± 1
Lower crown fi xing screws (380 - 888) 6 ± 1
Lower crown fi xing screws (380 - 888) 6 ± 1
Wheel axle screws 15 ± 1
Allen screws for wheel axles 6 ± 1
Table 9 - Tightening torques

5 WARRANTY

5.1 Warranty For EU Countries
Subject to the terms and conditions set forth herein, Tenneco
Marzocchi S.r.l. grants an independent warranty to the relevant
end-user that its suspension system is free from defect in material
and/or workmanship throughout a period of two (2) years from
the date of the purchase. A defective suspension system will be
repaired or replaced, at the option of Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. free
of charge, within thirty (30) days after receipt of the same from the
relevant authorized Tenneco Marzocchi dealer. The retail invoice or,
if any, the warranty certifi cate dated and stamped by the relevant
Marzocchi retailer, enclosed with the product, will serve to prove
the commencement date of the warranty and the place of purchase
of the product. In the event of a defect within the aforesaid term,
the purchaser should return the product to the Marzocchi retailer
where he/she bought it, illustrating the defect and the reasons of
the warranty claim. The retailer will inform the purchaser when the
product has been repaired or replaced.

5.1.1.1 NOT COVERED: This warranty does not cover defects
resulting from accidents, alteration, neglect, misuse, abuse,
improper use, improper assembly, improper maintenance,
repairs improperly performed, replacement parts or accessories
not conforming to Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l.'s specifi cations,
modifi cations not recommended or approved in writing by Tenneco
Marzocchi S.r.l. activities such as acrobatics, stunt jumping, ramp
riding, racing, commercial use, competitive use, use in mountain
biking or BMX parks, use on BMX trails, and/or normal wear or
deterioration occasioned by the use of the suspension system, and,
in general, all subsequent non- conformity defects resulting from the
non observance of the instructions of the products Manual.
This warranty does not cover, as they are not original nonconformities,
items and substances subject to normal wear
occasioned by use, such as oil, sealing rings, dust seals, and
sliding bushes. In addition, this warranty is void in the event that
the suspension system is used with rental bicycles. This warranty
will be automatically void if the serial number of the Marzocchi
suspension system is altered, erased, defaced or otherwise subject
to any tampering. Finally, this warranty will not cover second-hand
Marzocchi suspension systems and in this case the retailer will offer
a warranty for the second-hand product, without liability of any kind,
either direct or indirect, of Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l.

5.1.1.2 TERRITORIAL LIMITATION: This warranty covers all the
products bought only in a EU country (including Switzerland), except
for products bought in a EU country but used in the USA which the
clauses of the "Warranty rest of the world - USA included" apply to.
Some EU countries set mandatory rules which govern the warranty for
consumer goods; should these rules be inconsistent with the terms of
this warranty, national mandatory rules shall take precedence.
WARNING!

Install, service and use the Marzocchi Suspension System
in absolute compliance with the instructions in the products
Manual.

5.1.2 PURCHASER: This warranty is made by Tenneco Marzocchi
S.r.l. with only the original purchaser of the Marzocchi suspension
system, and does not extend to any third parties. The rights of the
original purchaser under this warranty may not be assigned.

5.1.3 TERM: The term of this warranty shall commence on the date
of purchase and shall continue for a period of two (2) years from
the date of the original purchase. Unless the two-year warranty still
applies, replaced parts have an additional six (6) month warranty.

5.1.4 PROCEDURE: In the event of a defect covered by this
warranty, the purchaser should exclusively contact the authorized
Tenneco Marzocchi dealer, from whom the purchaser bought the
product (or Tenneco Marzocchi USA).

5.1.5 ADDITIONAL REMEDIES: The warranty granted hereunder
shall be respective of and in addition to any statutory warranty
claim an end-user may have against its relevant dealer where the
end-user has purchased the suspension system or any mandatory
product liability rights.

5.1.6 DAMAGES: Except for the case of wilful acts or gross
negligence by Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l., this independent warranty
shall not give any rights for compensation of damages but shall be
limited to the remedies set forth in Section 5.1 above. Specifically,
Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. and Tenneco Marzocchi USA, Inc.
SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE UNDER THIS WARRANTY
FOR ANY INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL
DAMAGES ASSOCIATED WITH THE USE OF THE MARZOCCHI
SUSPENSION SYSTEM.

5.1.7 WARNING: Always install, repair and use your Marzocchi
suspension system in strict compliance with its owner's manual.

5.1.8 EUROPEAN WARRANTY APPLICABLE LAW: Any disputes
arising out of this warranty will be governed by the laws of the country of
Italy , including Italian Consumer Code.
5.2 Warranty rest of the world excluding Europe - USA included
If any component of your suspension system is found to be defective
in materials or workmanship within the term of this Limited Two Year
Warranty (the "Agreement"), the defective component will be
repaired or replaced, at the option of Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. free
of charge, within thirty (30) days after receipt of the same from an
authorized Tenneco Marzocchi dealer or Tenneco Marzocchi USA,
freight prepaid, together with the original retail invoice or other
evidence of the date of purchase.

5.2.1 NOT COVERED: This warranty does not cover damage
resulting from accidents, alteration, neglect, misuse, abuse, improper
use, lack of reasonable or proper maintenance, improper assembly,
repairs improperly performed, replacement parts or accessories not
conforming to Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l.'s specifications in the Owner's
Manual or on the Website Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension, modifications not
recommended or approved in writing by Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l.
activities such as acrobatics, jumping, stunt riding, ramp riding,
racing, commercial use, competitive use, use in mountain biking or
BMX parks, use on BMX trails, and/or normal wear or deterioration
occasioned by the use of the suspension system. This warranty
does not cover items subject to normal wear due to the use of the
suspension system, such as for example oil, oil seals, dust seals and
bushes. We therefore ask you to check (or have your dealer check)
its condition at the moment you purchase the suspension system, as
that is the only time that it will be possible to replace such components.
In addition, this warranty is void in the event that the suspension
system is used with rental bicycles, unless Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l.
provided prior approval in writing for such use. This warranty also
does not include any expenses related to the transportation of the
Marzocchi suspension system to or from an authorized Tenneco
Marzocchi dealer (or Tenneco Marzocchi USA), labor costs to
remove the Marzocchi suspension system from the bicycle, or
compensation for loss of use while the Marzocchi suspension system
is being repaired. This warranty will be automatically void if the
serial number of the Marzocchi suspension system is altered, erased,
defaced or otherwise subject to any tampering. This warranty will be
automatically void if the purchaser does not follow all the instructions
in the Owner's Manual and in the website Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension.
WARNING!
Install, service and use the Marzocchi Suspension System
in absolute compliance with the instructions in the products
Manual.

5.2.2 PURCHASER: This warranty is made by Tenneco Marzocchi
S.r.l. with only the original purchaser of the Marzocchi suspension
system, and does not extend to any third parties. The rights of the
original purchaser under this warranty may not be assigned.

5.2.3 TERM: The term of this warranty shall commence on the date
of purchase and shall continue for a period of two (2) years from
the date of the original purchase. Unless the two-year warranty still
applies, replaced parts have an additional six (6) month warranty.

5.2.4 PROCEDURE: In the event of a defect covered by this
warranty, the purchaser should contact an authorized Tenneco
Marzocchi dealer (or Tenneco Marzocchi USA).

5.2.5 ENTIRE AGREEMENT: This warranty supersedes any and
all oral or express warranties, statements or undertakings that may
previously have been made, and contains the entire agreement
between the parties with respect to the warranty of this Marzocchi
suspension system. Any and all warranties not contained in this
warranty are expressly and specifically excluded.

5.2.6 LIMITED WARRANTY: Except as expressly provided by this
warranty, Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. and Tenneco Marzocchi USA,
Inc. SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ASSOCIATED WITH THE USE OF
THE MARZOCCHI SUSPENSION SYSTEM OR A CLAIM UNDER
THIS AGREEMENT, WHETHER THE CLAIM IS BASED ON
CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE. The foregoing statements
of warranty are exclusive and lieu of all other remedies. Some
states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages, so this limitation or exclusion may not
apply to you.

5.2.7 DISCLAIMER: ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF
MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE AND ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARISING FROM A
COURSE OF DEALING, USAGE OR TRADE, BY STATUTE OR
OTHERWISE, IS HEREBY STRICTLY LIMITED TO THE TERM
OF THIS WRITTEN WARRANTY.

This Agreement shall be the sole
and exclusive remedy available to the Purchaser with respect to this
purchase. In the event of any alleged breach of any warranty or any
legal action brought by the purchaser based on alleged negligence
or other tortuous conduct by Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. the
Purchaser's sole and exclusive remedy will be repair or replacement
of the defective materials, as stated above. No dealer and no other
agent or employee of Tenneco Marzocchi S.r.l. is authorized to
modify, extend or enlarge this warranty. This warranty expressly
supersedes all representations set forth in Tenneco-Marzocchi's or
any other entities product literature and marketing materials, and
including but not limited to any advertising literature and Technical
Specifications.

5.2.8 WARNING: Always install, repair and use your Marzocchi
suspension system in strict compliance with its owner's manual.

5.2.9 OTHER RIGHTS: This warranty gives you specific legal rights,
and you may also have rights that may vary from state-to-state.

5.2.10 APPLICABLE LAW IN THE REST OF THE WORLD: This
agreement shall be deemed to have been negotiated and entered
into in Bologna, Italy. Any and all claims or disputes arising out
of or otherwise relating to this warranty shall be governed and
construed in accordance with the laws of the State of New York,
and the parties expressly acknowledge and irrevocably agree that
the sole and exclusive venue for and jurisdiction over any such
matter shall be the courts of Bologna, Italy to the exclusion of the
courts of any other place.

...END QUOTE...

As a consumer myself and speaking strictly as such, I have seen virtually identical warranties from other companies, not just us but also from other bike companies, computer equipment and cars and vehicle aftermarket items. To me it reads as standard warranty against mfg. defects (which I may add Marzocchi has been really good about handling in any cases that have come up).

As far as there being only 2 bike shops in Nelson and neither of them carrying Marzocchi, I would say that is their loss. I'll have Alex (who is from Nelson) contact them and remedy that. I also can't speak to Vorsprung. If they have been trained by our guys in Canada then cool if not, I am sure they speak with them regularly. Our office in Canada is the only distribution point in Canada for our products so they would have to get any parts and knowledge from us directly.

I hear you about lockout also, I never use mine. I tried it out but for my type of riding I don't need it. I have heard from all of our enduro racers at one point or another and ALL of them love it and use it so I believe it is that influence as why it is there, market demand also I imagine.

This thread did end up getting out of hand, I was just answering a few questions and it ended up almost becoming the official (unofficial) Marzocchi thread.

cheers!


----------



## BlowtorchBob (Jan 8, 2015)

@marzochi

Aren't you located near PricePoint? If I bought a fork there could I walk over and drop it off for personal set up?


----------



## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

@Marzocchi

The service manual states that the oil in the cartridge should be changed twice as often as the oil in the lower legs. Is that a misprint or is there any particular reason for this?


----------



## cobym2 (Apr 11, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> they all should have the kit in the box. we have a video on our Youtube.com station that shows how to install it.


Mine came with the remote, but no manual lever. Not that I use the lockout often, but if I did, Id probably like the lever (non-remote) more.


----------



## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

In the UK the remote version doesn't come with manual lever in the box.


----------



## Shanej (Nov 26, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> Marzocchi_USA:
> 
> First of all I wanted to say that I'm stoked to see Marzocchi getting back in the game! I used to ride a Z1 bomber on a Deep Cove Stiffee back in 2000 and it was the first "real" fork that I ever experienced. It definitely saved my ass more than a couple times back in the days of dropping to flat on the North Shore!
> 
> ...


You will like the fork for Nelson. If your a charger like me  you will like the next tune up from stock that they offer, I have been riding in Nelson the past 15 years. I was just there in the fall doing a Demo with Giant. I was riding a Pike and we pined down Space Junk  and I thought it was good. BUT I cant wait to get back and see how my 350 handles the steep stuff in Nelson compared to the Pike.. I don't know what shop you deal with but I wouldn't be to worried... I wouldn't personally worry about air volume.. I don't know what the stock tune feel like for compression but I might even try out the next tune from what I have. It keeps the fork up and handles high velocity hits really well. I here you on the lock out . I really don't like ALL low speed adjustments on forks. I think a adjustable low speed blow off is needed for MTB forks. WHy would I want to tune low speed and then sacrifice my high speed events and small bump sensitivity. I think the WORLD market wants lockouts.....


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

BlowtorchBob said:


> @marzochi
> 
> Aren't you located near PricePoint? If I bought a fork there could I walk over and drop it off for personal set up?


yeah but no. we aren't close enough to walk (and I wouldn't recommend doing that either, kind of a rough neighborhood).

Depending on what you are looking for in terms of personal set up, call ahead and talk to someone in our tech department and see what they have going on. we need to schedule any walk in because of our facility, the new compound isn't as customer friendly as the old one in Valencia.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Drybear said:


> @Marzocchi
> 
> The service manual states that the oil in the cartridge should be changed twice as often as the oil in the lower legs. Is that a misprint or is there any particular reason for this?


The oil in the cartridge is what is doing all the work, the oil in the legs is there for lubrication and cooling. It is all based on the new DBC system.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> Mine came with the remote, but no manual lever. Not that I use the lockout often, but if I did, Id probably like the lever (non-remote) more.


Some of the first production models didn't come with manual lock out. if you are in the US call in or email is: [email protected] and we will track one down for you. All the second and forward production runs came with them. This is provided you are in the US. if you are elsewhere you'll need to contact your distributor or LBS.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> In the UK the remote version doesn't come with manual lever in the box.


That is very possible also. I can only speak to what is shipping in N. America as that is where I am based.


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> The oil in the cartridge is what is doing all the work, the oil in the legs is there for lubrication and cooling. It is all based on the new DBC system.


Ok, but is it possible to change oil in the cartridge whithout emptying the lowers?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Drybear said:


> Ok, but is it possible to change oil in the cartridge whithout emptying the lowers?


no, the cartridge needs to be removed and vacuum bled.


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> no, the cartridge needs to be removed and vacuum bled.


So you recycle the old oil from the lowers after you have done the oilchange in the cartridge!?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Drybear said:


> So you recycle the old oil from the lowers after you have done the oilchange in the cartridge!?


yes, we recycle all used oil here.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Can I get a hose hose guide and bolts directly from Marzocchi? I lost mine and the zip ties look hokey. I have a Micro switch TA.

Thanks!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> Can I get a hose hose guide and bolts directly from Marzocchi? I lost mine and the zip ties look hokey. I have a Micro switch TA.
> 
> Thanks!


yeah no worries. email [email protected], get us your address and I'll see if we have one we can send you. We should, thanks.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Email sent!

Thanks!!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

No worries!


----------



## talabardio (Oct 6, 2009)

Hello again, any word on the ship date for the LCR 320 Carbon forks?


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> yes, we recycle all used oil here.


So the next time you use the fork, the new oil in the cartridge will begin to circulate and mix up with the 50h old oil from the lower leg?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

talabardio said:


> Hello again, any word on the ship date for the LCR 320 Carbon forks?


we have the 44-offset models in the building. the new offset and 27.5" models are still pending. We are shooting for April for the first batch. Fingers crossed!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Drybear said:


> So the next time you use the fork, the new oil in the cartridge will begin to circulate and mix up with the 50h old oil from the lower leg?


No, when oil is changed out of the cartridge, we replace oil in the leg too. we don't reuse any old oil, that gets recycled (as opposed to thrown away, it is environmentally more responsible). Only fresh oil is used every time when a fork or shock is serviced.


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> No, when oil is changed out of the cartridge, we replace oil in the leg too. we don't reuse any old oil, that gets recycled (as opposed to thrown away, it is environmentally more responsible). Only fresh oil is used every time when a fork or shock is serviced.


Ok, I thought so 
But that takes us back to my original question, why the manual says oil change every 100 hours and 50 hours between oil change in cartridge?

By the way, thanks for answearing, I just try to figure out how to service my new fork.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Drybear said:


> Ok, I thought so
> But that takes us back to my original question, why the manual says oil change every 100 hours and 50 hours between oil change in cartridge?
> 
> By the way, thanks for answering, I just try to figure out how to service my new fork.


no worries. We hold this line here: service your fork every 6-months. just pick a point on the calendar within 5-7 months from when you started riding it and make an appointment reminder for yourself. when it comes time contact us or your local shop (if they know what they are doing) and have it serviced. Our forks can go a long time between service intervals real easily. they are designed for longevity and durability in the long term which is why we have such long service intervals.

If you are using the fork aggressively and daily, go with the 50-hrs interval. if you are what would be an "average user" (every weekend or every other weekend user) go with the 100 hrs (average of 6-months +/-) and you'll be gold.


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## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

Marzocchi_USA:

Thanks for taking the time to answer my admittedly long post. Guess that's what happens when I lurk in a thread way to long and save up all my questions. I'm just about there on taking the plunge on the fork. In the end I think my curiosity may get the better of me.

From what I understand the coil spring is contained in it's own sleeve so that it's possible to run the coil and then switch back to air at a later date? It would be interesting to pick up the coil down the road and experiment with it as an option for park days etc.



Shanej said:


> You will like the fork for Nelson. If your a charger like me  you will like the next tune up from stock that they offer, I have been riding in Nelson the past 15 years. I was just there in the fall doing a Demo with Giant. I was riding a Pike and we pined down Space Junk  and I thought it was good. BUT I cant wait to get back and see how my 350 handles the steep stuff in Nelson compared to the Pike.. I don't know what shop you deal with but I wouldn't be to worried... I wouldn't personally worry about air volume.. I don't know what the stock tune feel like for compression but I might even try out the next tune from what I have. It keeps the fork up and handles high velocity hits really well. I here you on the lock out . I really don't like ALL low speed adjustments on forks. I think a adjustable low speed blow off is needed for MTB forks. WHy would I want to tune low speed and then sacrifice my high speed events and small bump sensitivity. I think the WORLD market wants lockouts.....


Thanks for chiming in with your opinions Shane, particularly since you're familiar with our local terrain! I'm getting my first new ride in many years and I'm stoked to get it as dialled in as possible! I got a chance to ride the X-Fusion rep's bike at the Penticton Enduro last summer and that definitely showed me how much room for improvement there is with the suspension on my current ride! I haven't ridden the Pike a whole bunch, but I'd love to hear a bit more about the reasons you prefer your 350


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> Marzocchi_USA:
> 
> From what I understand the coil spring is contained in it's own sleeve so that it's possible to run the coil and then switch back to air at a later date? It would be interesting to pick up the coil down the road and experiment with it as an option for park days etc.
> 
> ...


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## fr0sty125 (May 22, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA

I got a new 2014 350 CR fork in November 

I used it for 2 rides a week apart from December where I rode just once in 3 weeks now it has wear marks on one of the stanchions. This can't be ok right?


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## dobbs59 (May 26, 2008)

Would like to know what marzocchi think of this?
Marzocchi 350 CR worn stanchions « Singletrack Forum

Not mine, but I have a set (unused) and I'd be VERY nervous if this is the kind of service to expect from the UK Marzocchi agent.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

fr0sty125 said:


> Marzocchi_USA
> 
> I got a new 2014 350 CR fork in November
> 
> I used it for 2 rides a week apart from December where I rode just once in 3 weeks now it has wear marks on one of the stanchions. This can't be ok right?


if you are here in the US, take photos of it and email them and a very detailed explanation to us: [email protected]. We will get it figured out. if you are not in the US, there is a list of international distributors here:

Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

dobbs59 said:


> Would like to know what marzocchi think of this?
> Marzocchi 350 CR worn stanchions « Singletrack Forum
> 
> Not mine, but I have a set (unused) and I'd be VERY nervous if this is the kind of service to expect from the UK Marzocchi agent.


Windwave is really good about their service and helping back up warranty with us. Some of these have been able to be warrantied but others we have not been able to warranty for various reasons. The majority of them we were able to process through as warranty though. We have't seen too many here in the US.

Anyone in the UK can always contact Marzocchi Italy directly too though Windwave is really good about staying in contact with Italy about all tech issues that come up.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Got my hose guide!

Thank you...Thank you!!


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

RS VR6 said:


> Got my hose guide!
> 
> Thank you...Thank you!!


awesome,
very welcome!


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Garyorange5 said:


> Hi Marzocchi_USA
> 
> I have a quick question regarding a set of 350CR 2014 model. Fitted a new set to a frame last week. On compressing the fork, a clicking noise can be heard from inside the stanchion. After a few compressions, the noise stops. Any ideas if there is anything I can do to stop this (oil levels or something) or will it require sending the new fork back?
> 
> Thanks





Marzocchi_USA said:


> was the fork reduced in travel at all? send an email to [email protected] and if possible describe the click as best you can or shoot a video in a quiet room and email that as well.
> 
> Assuming the fork is installed properly and the headset is correct and tight and the bar is tight and all bolts are greased and the wheel is secure.
> 
> ...


My CR started clicking after evening ride. I haven't ridden it much - something like 6-7 hours in somewhat cold conditions. There were no clicking before today. It clicks somewhere around 5cm into the travel. Fork was never disassembled and no travel reduction done.


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

CS645 said:


> stanchion coating and price is the only difference. the 2015 came down in cost because of the stanchion treatment.





Marzocchi_USA said:


> stanchion coating and price is the only difference. the 2015 came down in cost because of the stanchion treatment.


A bit late but thanks for that.

I'm seriously considering buying a 2014 350CR. I'm a bit worried though, due to all the posted scratched stanchion issues. I noticed that the 2015 has an advised oil level of 25ml while the 2014 model has 20ml listed on the website. If I were to open it myself (with the help of an experienced friend and thereby voiding the warranty), would it be better to fill the 2014 model to the 2015 25ml or is the difference immaterial anyway?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> My CR started clicking after evening ride. I haven't ridden it much - something like 6-7 hours in somewhat cold conditions. There were no clicking before today. It clicks somewhere around 5cm into the travel. Fork was never disassembled and no travel reduction done.


I think I missed the question from @Garyorange5, for him that clicking then no clicking was a spring seat seating. that is not uncommon and as long as the noise is gone now there isn't anything left to do, all it means is the top out spring was not fully seated at assembly and it popped off when aired up. Once the fork is compressed hard it pops back in fully and won't come out again.

for @Graved1gger.. can you email a video at all to me? [email protected], make sure it is in a quiet room. It is probably nothing. Make sure your axle is tight but not so tight as to bind the fork up also.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

CS645 said:


> A bit late but thanks for that.
> 
> I'm seriously considering buying a 2014 350CR. I'm a bit worried though, due to all the posted scratched stanchion issues. I noticed that the 2015 has an advised oil level of 25ml while the 2014 model has 20ml listed on the website. If I were to open it myself (with the help of an experienced friend and thereby voiding the warranty), would it be better to fill the 2014 model to the 2015 25ml or is the difference immaterial anyway?


Take it to a shop and have them put about 10cc or so oil in each leg if you want. You can go up to about 30cc in each leg. they are stock at 20 but a little more won't hurt the system at all.

I didn't see you write anything about warranty


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> Take it to a shop and have them put about 10cc or so oil in each leg if you want. You can go up to about 30cc in each leg. they are stock at 20 but a little more won't hurt the system at all.
> 
> I didn't see you write anything about warranty


Thanks!


----------



## jazclrint (Oct 22, 2005)

Hello Marzocchi US,

I have some questions about the 053 S3C2R. First, I am building up a carbon GT Sensor (2015). I was wondering if you folks will be making a 184/44 length/stroke version. Or if I can have it shortened. And second, how does having LSC and HSC adjustments work with your Down, Ride, Up switch? Isn't that a bit redundant? Thank you.


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## FriendlyFoe (Aug 10, 2014)

I have the exact same question, and was wondering how it works and why they didn't go with a two position switch where the second setting is a climb platform. That would have been my personal preference.


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## socalMX (Oct 31, 2009)

ALSO, are we still on track with April for release? I need this beauty in my life!


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

jazclrint said:


> Hello Marzocchi US,
> 
> I have some questions about the 053 S3C2R. First, I am building up a carbon GT Sensor (2015). I was wondering if you folks will be making a 184/44 length/stroke version. Or if I can have it shortened. And second, how does having LSC and HSC adjustments work with your Down, Ride, Up switch? Isn't that a bit redundant? Thank you.


As far as I measured, Sensor frame is capable of accepting 190x51 shock, but then it will become Force with 150mm travel.


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## jazclrint (Oct 22, 2005)

graved1gger said:


> As far as I measured, Sensor frame is capable of accepting 190x51 shock, but then it will become Force with 150mm travel.


Well, it still wouldn't be a Force as the geometries are fairly different, but I see your point. But I would rather stick to stock length in the back. If they are customizable i'd like to know.

Btw, nice ride.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

jazclrint said:


> Hello Marzocchi US,
> 
> I have some questions about the 053 S3C2R. First, I am building up a carbon GT Sensor (2015). I was wondering if you folks will be making a 184/44 length/stroke version. Or if I can have it shortened. And second, how does having LSC and HSC adjustments work with your Down, Ride, Up switch? Isn't that a bit redundant? Thank you.


184/44? that is one wacky size! technically you can short stroke a shock for that but it won't work quite right. We would have to play with one to see if it is possible. we have successfully done it with our Roco TSTr and WC shocks but they use an IFP which needs a different displacement to counter the different volume in the main chamber. the 053 uses a bladder so it would be a different process that we would need to experiment with but for now we don't make anything in that stroke.

I can see the thinking of the adjustability being redundant but the weay the system works the lever changes the valving and the actual HSC/LSC knobs adjust the shims so the compression can be adjusted with the valving in any position. it gives a broader range of adjustment


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

FriendlyFoe said:


> I have the exact same question, and was wondering how it works and why they didn't go with a two position switch where the second setting is a climb platform. That would have been my personal preference.


the only thing I can say is why have two positions when you can have three? 
A lock out (with adjustable blow off), a neutral position with the valving basically half closed and half open and a full open position.

I can't speak to why three settings over two but it is my understanding we did it because that is the market norm for rear shocks in this style.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

socalMX said:


> ALSO, are we still on track with April for release? I need this beauty in my life!
> 
> so far, yes. I haven't heard any updates changing that timeline. Hopefully by then the dock strikes are worked out otherwise they could end up sitting on the water for a while too.


----------



## jazclrint (Oct 22, 2005)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> 184/44? that is one wacky size! technically you can short stroke a shock for that but it won't work quite right. We would have to play with one to see if it is possible. we have successfully done it with our Roco TSTr and WC shocks but they use an IFP which needs a different displacement to counter the different volume in the main chamber. the 053 uses a bladder so it would be a different process that we would need to experiment with but for now we don't make anything in that stroke.
> 
> I can see the thinking of the adjustability being redundant but the weay the system works the lever changes the valving and the actual HSC/LSC knobs adjust the shims so the compression can be adjusted with the valving in any position. it gives a broader range of adjustment


Is it really? I work for a Giant and GT dealer, and that is the size for the new 27.5" Sensors, as well as the not so old 26" Trances. And there is a lot of them, and I'm not sure how many other Giant's use the same size. And Cane Creek, Fox, Rock Shox, and X-Fusion carry socks in those sizes (and Manitou says they will make custom length McLeods). The DBInline won't fit though (please don't ask how I know. I'll have to break out the violin). Now an 8 1/4" X 2" shock meant to run 10mm of sag in the front, and 8mm rear, _*that's *_ a wacky size.

Back on track, it seems as far as I can tell, for someone who wants proper adjustability for the new Sensors the 53 is it, as the Bos and DBInline won't fit. But then BOS doesn't have the 184/44 option either.

As far as the tuning, so what you are saying is that someone who is more XC/Trail orientated can flip the lever to "Ride" and play with the dampening adjustments to dial that setting in, and then "Up" and "Down" are what they are. But if your more gravity orientated you could dial in "Down", and "Trail" and "Up" are what they are. Correct?

Thank you for your time!


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

jazclrint said:


> Is it really? I work for a Giant and GT dealer, and that is the size for the new 27.5" Sensors, as well as the not so old 26" Trances. And there is a lot of them, and I'm not sure how many other Giant's use the same size. And Cane Creek, Fox, Rock Shox, and X-Fusion carry socks in those sizes (and Manitou says they will make custom length McLeods). The DBInline won't fit though (please don't ask how I know. I'll have to break out the violin). Now an 8 1/4" X 2" shock meant to run 10mm of sag in the front, and 8mm rear, _*that's *_ a wacky size.
> 
> Back on track, it seems as far as I can tell, for someone who wants proper adjustability for the new Sensors the 53 is it, as the Bos and DBInline won't fit. But then BOS doesn't have the 184/44 option either.
> 
> ...


It isn't necessarily "wacky" but I would not call it a "standard size"? happy with that? For sure it is a custom OEM sized shock. Many companies are going to non standard (i.e.: 190x51, 200x51, 200x57, 216x63, 222x70). These sizes have been the normal for a while but trends in shock sizes and leverage rates have been changing as frame designs change to get the most out of their suspension for purpose-built machines. Maybe we are behind the times in offering these sizes and should look into the more off-brand (read: OE) sizes that are coming out. All that said, we have been working with GT on OEM for a while now and maybe by 2016 model year we will have GT specific sizes available.

You are correct in your assessment of adjustability. I (speaking personally) would have to say the full range of adjustments in each lever setting are to allow for a range for different race tracks or trails. You can fine tune a base setting for each of the lever settings for a given trail, set the up position (for sustained climbs like to the top of an enduro course where you could be climbing for up to an hour) for a lockout or a soft lock or light activity and have this as notes on your phone or a sticker (what we do for the racers), have a setup for the Ride position where you can have it semi-active and lots of low-speed compression to help hold it high in the travel as you may have a long traverse across a ridgeline and a final DH setting for the wide open valving with a lot of high speed compression for stutter/braking bumps and mid range low speed compression depending on the trail (big rocks/rollers/drops, whatever)...

Or you can do what I would just do and bolt it on, find a comfortable setting and leave it.


----------



## FriendlyFoe (Aug 10, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> the only thing I can say is why have two positions when you can have three?
> A lock out (with adjustable blow off), a neutral position with the valving basically half closed and half open and a full open position.
> 
> I can't speak to why three settings over two but it is my understanding we did it because that is the market norm for rear shocks in this style.
> ...


So bare with my fairly basic level of suspension knowledge here.

So with your suggestion of having a different "base tune" for each position, this would involve also having to adjust HSC/LSC every time i turn the lever to have a proper setup?

I'm just trying to understand what the point in having a trail position is if i have to change my damper settings anyway when i switch from down to trail. All i can think is Marzocchi felt that the shim stack adjustment alone wasn't enough to achieve a proper "trail" setting with the valve in the full open position?

I'm struggling to understand what the benefit of having the valve half closed is. The fork doesn't work this way and when i want a firmer trail ride i just go up two clicks on LSC.


----------



## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Anyone pulled the lower legs of the NCR Ti's? the CR's is a simple job but the NCR's on the damper side the lower leg retaining bolt just rotates.

Since I live in a country without a service centre and warranty is not an issue, I'm happy to live with the consequences, but would rather not be randomly undoing bolts trial and error style.

Very unimpressed with the lack of information out there, compared to other manufacturers.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

FriendlyFoe said:


> So bare with my fairly basic level of suspension knowledge here.
> 
> So with your suggestion of having a different "base tune" for each position, this would involve also having to adjust HSC/LSC every time i turn the lever to have a proper setup?
> 
> ...


Yes and no. Technically you'd have an optimal tune for each of the lever positions so if you were one of those enduro racer types you'd set up a tune for each stage (I work with these guys regularly) and that is just who they are and what they are in to. That is a level of detail that mere mortals (like myself and the majority of riders out there) won't need to do. us also-rans can just get a set up for the lever position we like the best and are going to spend the majority of our time in and just call it a day.

For example, I am more of a xc-type rider but I ride the majority of my rides on a 160mm travel GT Force (26 lbs so why not, right) so I would (again, personal settings here) run my ride selector lever in the middle position and probably with a fair amount of low speed compression as I won't be doing a lot of drops and bigger jumps and less low speed compression (maybe halfway through the dial) as my trails out here in So-Cal tend to have more small, high frequency stutters and rocks. HOWEVER, for those weekends I want to go ride lifts at Big Bear I'll find a setting with the ride selector in wide open that will work for me for riding up there.

Everything is about personal settings for your trails and riding style. Some of us are WFO riders, some of us are more into climbing all day to get to a trail and others will shuttle tot he top of a long trail. it's all a matter of preferences, that is why we have the ability to change settings. If we (Marzocchi) wanted you to ride one setting, we would not make it adjustable.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Uphill=sad said:


> Anyone pulled the lower legs of the NCR Ti's? the CR's is a simple job but the NCR's on the damper side the lower leg retaining bolt just rotates.
> 
> Since I live in a country without a service centre and warranty is not an issue, I'm happy to live with the consequences, but would rather not be randomly undoing bolts trial and error style.
> 
> Very unimpressed with the lack of information out there, compared to other manufacturers.


we are working on the service info stuff but are slow because of our corporate policies. if your foot nut is just spinning it needs help. Chances are you loosened up the cartridge inside. use an air torque gun on the lightest possible setting. Hopefully everything is ok with the fork.

it is things like that that make us (Marzocchi) almost demand to have professional, trained service centers, to keep instances like that from happening which will hinder a rider's experience with our products.


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> 184/44? that is one wacky size!


?? Giant used that size on their Trance x range for Eons.


----------



## FriendlyFoe (Aug 10, 2014)

and they don't use that size anymore. Our marzocchi friend here clarified his statement as saying at the very least it's not common on current bike.

And thank you for answering my question in such detail. It's nice to understand how it works, and maybe more importantly how it was meant to be used. It will definitely help in making an informed purchase decision. Cheers


----------



## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

FriendlyFoe said:


> and they don't use that size anymore. Our marzocchi friend here clarified his statement as saying at the very least it's not common on current bike.


Well, I find a 184mm shock on a bunch of modern short travel 29er trailbikes: Kona Process 111, Banshee Phantom, 2015 Evil The Following... 
And it's an uncommon size indeed, I can't find a decently capable shock in this size, made apart the DB Inline that's not going to fit every frame...


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## cbj2012 (Aug 31, 2012)

Fun thread to read with a lot of cool info. No doubt we need a 053 that will fit the GT Sensor


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

cbj2012 said:


> Fun thread to read with a lot of cool info. No doubt we need a 053 that will fit the GT Sensor


I'll talk to GT and our engineers about that and see what's possible. I try to keep it fun here


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

FriendlyFoe said:


> and they don't use that size anymore. Our marzocchi friend here clarified his statement as saying at the very least it's not common on current bike.
> 
> And thank you for answering my question in such detail. It's nice to understand how it works, and maybe more importantly how it was meant to be used. It will definitely help in making an informed purchase decision. Cheers


word up,

cheers!

--DM


----------



## torepuma (Feb 20, 2012)

I am wondering if is possible to lower the 350 NCR all the way down to 130? I see that 140 and 150 is standard, but I am looking for a 130 fork.


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

torepuma said:


> I am wondering if is possible to lower the 350 NCR all the way down to 130? I see that 140 and 150 is standard, but I am looking for a 130 fork.


No, the internals are too long to allow it.


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## torepuma (Feb 20, 2012)

Ok. Thanks for the quick reply.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

torepuma said:


> Ok. Thanks for the quick reply.


No worries. 
good question though


----------



## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Does anyone know which adapter do i need to use, to fit a Shimano 180mm disc front rotor on the fork? Thanks!


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

looperx said:


> Does anyone know which adapter do i need to use, to fit a Shimano 180mm disc front rotor on the fork? Thanks!


Shimano SM-MA90 Disc Brake Adapter | Shimano

This one,


----------



## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

Are there any reviews or comparisons of the 250 NCR vs the 350 NCR Titanium?


----------



## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

crank1979 said:


> Are there any reviews or comparisons of the 250 NCR vs the 350 NCR Titanium?


I haven't seen any yet. I have ridden both and can give my opinion (I think I posted it earlier in the thread somewhere). I sent a 350 Ti up to Bike Magazine last week for a long term test. I think they will be doing the test on their website. I'll ask Forrest from MTBR again also, we were talking about a test at one point and he liked that idea.

-DM


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

2014 350 CR review: Marzocchi 350CR suspension fork review - MBR

I like the pro's and don't care about the con's so positive review for me.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

CS645 said:


> 2014 350 CR review: Marzocchi 350CR suspension fork review - MBR
> 
> I like the pro's and don't care about the con's so positive review for me.


Well, after the service done on my fork I can definitely agree that the fork is super-plush. But also I can agree with the review - I'd like the fork to be a bit more progressive. Though the fork is the best one for the price. Also, everyone is comparing it with the pike, while the NCR should be compared with the Pike.


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## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I haven't seen any yet. I have ridden both and can give my opinion (I think I posted it earlier in the thread somewhere). I sent a 350 Ti up to Bike Magazine last week for a long term test. I think they will be doing the test on their website. I'll ask Forrest from MTBR again also, we were talking about a test at one point and he liked that idea.
> 
> -DM


I'm trying to decide what I should replace my 44 RC3 Ti with. Weight is similar enough for both.


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## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

There's a bike a rumour article from the Tapei Bike Show with updates on the dropper post and and 053 shock. It sounds like they should both be available relatively soon...

TPE15: Marzocchi Espresso Dropper Post drops in, plus new Enduro & XC Shocks, and more!

The article also mentions that Marzocchi will bel releasing 350s with 170mm travel at some point! Marzocchi_USA do you have any notion of when the 170mm versions of the 350 will be available? Is the increased travel something that could be retrofit into the 160mm models or does it require a new chassis?


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## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

Also, there's a positive thread over at NSMB.com about the 380. It sounds like the people who have ridden it are really happy with it overall. I'm hoping this bodes well for the performance of the 350 NCR since I'm going to be picking one up pretty shortly!


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Damn... I'll need to change my 350 for the new 170mm one! 

And glad to see the post will be available in 150mm stroke.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

Aand... the 27.5+ dedicated 350 may come to serve nicely the 5-6inch 29er crowd...


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

My friend found THIS in his 2014 55CR... it seems to be like an extremly thick oil, but what it was doing there?
View attachment 973990


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## Steve.E (Apr 10, 2009)

I think he just really, really likes his fork.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

graved1gger said:


> My friend found THIS in his 2014 55CR... it seems to be like an extremly thick oil, but what it was doing there?
> View attachment 973990


Which leg did that come out of? If it was the damper side, I could see that causing some issues.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> we are working on the service info stuff but are slow because of our corporate policies. if your foot nut is just spinning it needs help. Chances are you loosened up the cartridge inside. use an air torque gun on the lightest possible setting. Hopefully everything is ok with the fork.
> 
> it is things like that that make us (Marzocchi) almost demand to have professional, trained service centers, to keep instances like that from happening which will hinder a rider's experience with our products.


But if you already had the information out this probably wouldn't have happened. What hiders my riding experience the most is when I have to send a fork in and wait for it to come back. Plus all that cash I could of saved by doing it myself. God help you if I something goes wrong in the middle of July. That was the last time I ever rode service center only forks. 3.5 weeks to replace seals when I could of done it that afternoon. I always keep an extra set of seals since then.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Kiwiplague said:


> Which leg did that come out of? If it was the damper side, I could see that causing some issues.


It was in the leg with an air chamber.


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

graved1gger said:


> It was in the leg with an air chamber.


Did it came out from the air spring or from the lower leg?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Drybear said:


> Did it came out from the air spring or from the lower leg?


Well, he forgot to let the air out of the air chamber before pulling of the lowers. So while the fork was upside down he pressed on the valve and that stuff came out with the air through the valve.

He lubed the seals and put 25cc of oil in each leg and the fork is working fine, but WTF that was?


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

graved1gger said:


> Well, he forgot to let the air out of the air chamber before pulling of the lowers. So while the fork was upside down he pressed on the valve and that stuff came out with the air through the valve.
> 
> He lubed the seals and put 25cc of oil in each leg and the fork is working fine, but WTF that was?


When you compress air the moisture falls out and settles in the bottom of the air chamber.
After a while the water will mix up with oil and grease and produce the grey mass.
You can relax its absolutely normal


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Drybear said:


> When you compress air the moisture falls out and settles in the bottom of the air chamber.
> After a while the water will mix up with oil and grease and produce the grey mass.
> You can relax its absolutely normal


I'm relaxed - it ain't my fork but I've never seen such stuff. And yes I laughed a lot when he sent this photo 
Thanks for the explanation.


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> -DM


HOw would you compare the heat management of the 053 compared to Float X, Monarch RC3 Plus debonair or CCDB Air?
And why is it that every shock has such a large damper body and the 053 is so small? Can it really compete with the smoothness of the others?


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

graved1gger said:


> Well, he forgot to let the air out of the air chamber before pulling of the lowers. So while the fork was upside down he pressed on the valve and that stuff came out with the air through the valve.
> 
> He lubed the seals and put 25cc of oil in each leg and the fork is working fine, but WTF that was?


Aerated oil. Try it with your fork. Same result.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Swissam said:


> But if you already had the information out this probably wouldn't have happened. What hiders my riding experience the most is when I have to send a fork in and wait for it to come back. Plus all that cash I could of saved by doing it myself. God help you if I something goes wrong in the middle of July. That was the last time I ever rode service center only forks. 3.5 weeks to replace seals when I could of done it that afternoon. I always keep an extra set of seals since then.


I understand and appreciate what you have to say, especially as a rider myself. Corporate policy is what it is and ours isn't much different from other companies out there. I am not defending it nor apologizing for it, it just is what it is.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> Aand... the 27.5+ dedicated 350 may come to serve nicely the 5-6inch 29er crowd...


yes, yes it will. that was my first thought when I heard we were doing it.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

bansaiman said:


> HOw would you compare the heat management of the 053 compared to Float X, Monarch RC3 Plus debonair or CCDB Air?
> And why is it that every shock has such a large damper body and the 053 is so small? Can it really compete with the smoothness of the others?


personally I have only ridden the Float X and Monarch on that list. the Float is smaller than the 053 and the SRAM units are both larger and the CCDB is much larger. The few laps I have been able to put on a 053 were all on a prototype unit and it never lost damping or heated up to the point it became harsh or locked out, I have experienced that with the Fox stuff and the Monarch.

I have heard nothing but good things about the CCDB and the only thing I hear about the Debonair is it is just a larger, under-sprung Float X, but again, I have no personal experience on either of them. I am waiting for my 053 to come in just like everyone else.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> There's a bike a rumour article from the Tapei Bike Show with updates on the dropper post and and 053 shock. It sounds like they should both be available relatively soon...
> 
> TPE15: Marzocchi Espresso Dropper Post drops in, plus new Enduro & XC Shocks, and more!
> 
> The article also mentions that Marzocchi will bel releasing 350s with 170mm travel at some point! Marzocchi_USA do you have any notion of when the 170mm versions of the 350 will be available? Is the increased travel something that could be retrofit into the 160mm models or does it require a new chassis?


totally retrofitable. it is a cartridge that can be installed in any existing chassis. I have seen the part number but not the part yet so I can't say for certain. it is very possible (but not probable) it will be a mid-year change and they will start shipping by summer this year as early release 2016. I have seen a few OE companies with the spec for 2016 already so that with the part number already I know it is just a matter of time.


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> Also, there's a positive thread over at NSMB.com about the 380. It sounds like the people who have ridden it are really happy with it overall. I'm hoping this bodes well for the performance of the 350 NCR since I'm going to be picking one up pretty shortly!


you won't be disappointed. I love my NCR, plush and firm at the same time, it just does what I need. flexy when it needs to be and stiff all at once. the ONLY complaint I have is I think it is too tall and I want a travel adjust for it but installing a Micro STA cartridge will remove the NCR cartridge and I am pretty partial to it.


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## Berkeley Mike (Jan 13, 2004)

I have no idea why this thread is still around but I am # 56001!


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## Molasses (Aug 12, 2004)

Hi question- does the 350R (coil fork) have the ability to dial down the travel to 140mm? Are the springs for heavy riders available? I loved my Atom 80 and would love a coil Marz fork!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Molasses said:


> Hi question- does the 350R (coil fork) have the ability to dial down the travel to 140mm? Are the springs for heavy riders available? I loved my Atom 80 and would love a coil Marz fork!


none of the coil forks can be adjusted in travel without serious, warranty-voiding modifications. The springs in the 350 forks are pretty stout and all have an air preload giving them a pretty infinite adjustment. I know it is a poor man's fix but it does work.


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

Does the new Marzocchi forks use a single seal design like the rockshox and fox, or are they still a dual seal design?


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

I should have been a little more clear with my question. Does the new 320 line of forks use a single seal design?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

danny.mendes said:


> Does the new Marzocchi forks use a single seal design like the rockshox and fox, or are they still a dual seal design?


the new 320 series forks with 51 offset and the new 27.5 models all use the single seal system, all other forks for now use the dual seal


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

Marzocchi website lists the old part # for the dual seal. Is there a new part # for the 320 27.5 single seal?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

danny.mendes said:


> Marzocchi website lists the old part # for the dual seal. Is there a new part # for the 320 27.5 single seal?


8507025/P
SEAL KIT 32MM - SINGLE SEAL RED XC

These are not available yet as aftermarket though. I haven't seen an ETA for them here in the US.


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## giladgu (Jan 14, 2015)

how does the NCR ti compare with the NCR? also, does the Ti version come with different weight coils?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

giladgu said:


> how does the NCR ti compare with the NCR? also, does the Ti version come with different weight coils?


I think I put a comparison somewhere in this thread earlier but it boils down to this (IMHO) the NCR Ti is more DH than XC and has a significantly more progressive ramp to it where the NCR air is more linear out of the box but can be made to have an almost as deep progressive curve just by adjusting the compression damper and it rides more XC than DH.

I like the air version better myself but I am more of an xc/distance/trail kind of rider and I don't get too aggressive or jump a bunch. Rock gardens I love though and both forks eat them alive.

There is only one spring for the Ti fork (same with the R model) but both use an air preload that can firm the fork up rather significantly.


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## giladgu (Jan 14, 2015)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I think I put a comparison somewhere in this thread earlier but it boils down to this (IMHO) the NCR Ti is more DH than XC and has a significantly more progressive ramp to it where the NCR air is more linear out of the box but can be made to have an almost as deep progressive curve just by adjusting the compression damper and it rides more XC than DH.
> 
> I like the air version better myself but I am more of an xc/distance/trail kind of rider and I don't get too aggressive or jump a bunch. Rock gardens I love though and both forks eat them alive.
> 
> There is only one spring for the Ti fork (same with the R model) but both use an air preload that can firm the fork up rather significantly.


im not worried about firming it up but im more worried about making it softer. im very light (130) how does it work with someone that light


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

giladgu said:


> im not worried about firming it up but im more worried about making it softer. im very light (130) how does it work with someone that light


I would recommend the NCR air over the Ti for anyone under 150 lbs. the coil used in the Ti is a 7.7 Kn rating and may be too firm to help achieve full travel.


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## danny.mendes (Mar 11, 2013)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> 8507025/P
> SEAL KIT 32MM - SINGLE SEAL RED XC
> 
> These are not available yet as aftermarket though. I haven't seen an ETA for them here in the US.


Thank you for the info


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## Sylvan.Being (May 28, 2011)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> I think I put a comparison somewhere in this thread earlier but it boils down to this (IMHO) the NCR Ti is more DH than XC and has a significantly more progressive ramp to it where the NCR air is more linear out of the box but can be made to have an almost as deep progressive curve just by adjusting the compression damper and it rides more XC than DH.
> 
> I like the air version better myself but I am more of an xc/distance/trail kind of rider and I don't get too aggressive or jump a bunch. Rock gardens I love though and both forks eat them alive.
> 
> There is only one spring for the Ti fork (same with the R model) but both use an air preload that can firm the fork up rather significantly.


I'm surprised to hear that the NCR Ti feels more progressive than the NCR as that's the reverse of most air vs springs comparisons, would you put that down to differences in the damping cartridges they ship with? Would you say the Ti is more sensitive to small bumps than the standard NCR?

Also, what would you say the ideal rider weight range is for the spring that the NCR Ti comes with? I was feeling pretty set on getting the NCR based on weight, but I'm second guessing myself now. The Ti isn't exactly a heavy fork and the extra weight would be worth it to me if it meant a step up in traction and performance.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Sylvan.Being said:


> I'm surprised to hear that the NCR Ti feels more progressive than the NCR as that's the reverse of most air vs springs comparisons, would you put that down to differences in the damping cartridges they ship with? Would you say the Ti is more sensitive to small bumps than the standard NCR?
> 
> Also, what would you say the ideal rider weight range is for the spring that the NCR Ti comes with? I was feeling pretty set on getting the NCR based on weight, but I'm second guessing myself now. The Ti isn't exactly a heavy fork and the extra weight would be worth it to me if it meant a step up in traction and performance.


looking forward to the response. if there is one big complaint on Marz coil forks, it's the "one spring for all" attitude they seem to have. that weight group seems to me to be about 200+lbs. to top it off, if you can find another option from Marz., they're $280! C'mon, man!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Sylvan.Being said:


> I'm surprised to hear that the NCR Ti feels more progressive than the NCR as that's the reverse of most air vs springs comparisons, would you put that down to differences in the damping cartridges they ship with? Would you say the Ti is more sensitive to small bumps than the standard NCR?
> 
> Also, what would you say the ideal rider weight range is for the spring that the NCR Ti comes with? I was feeling pretty set on getting the NCR based on weight, but I'm second guessing myself now. The Ti isn't exactly a heavy fork and the extra weight would be worth it to me if it meant a step up in traction and performance.


It may be hard to fathom but the air spring in conjunction with the way the NCR cartridge operates and the adjustment range in it the air fork comes out significantly more linear on stroke than the coil model. Both products use the same NCR cartridge but because of the nature of the different spring systems the cartridge works differently.

As far as small bump sensitivity, I didn't notice a difference really between the air and coil. for the first 1/8 or so of travel after sag both forks react to small bumps the same and are really supple. It is once the trail gets faster and rougher you feel the differences between them.

I would have to say ideal rider weight range for the Ti is from 180lbs - 210-ish. the upper end can probably go up to 220-230 pretty easily. One of the guys here in house is a solid 230, he is a bid dude and he has been rocking his 350 CR for a year now with no issues so I imagine the Ti can go to at least as much. I have no official weight limits for riders on either fork though.

What bike do you want to put the fork on? where do you ride most and what type of terrain is it and what are the dirt/soil conditions like and how aggressive of a rider are you (do you jump **** or keep it low and on the ground)? I call jumping more aggressive as it is a better baseline to than trying to judge how fast someone rides through particular trail conditions as those are always variable and ever changing. Jumping stuff regularly gives a better baseline for aggressiveness for riding.

I sent a Ti model off to Bike Magazine and an air model to MTBR so look for those tests soon.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

@Marzocchi_USA have the 053 shocks landed yet? or when are they supposed to?


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

savo said:


> @Marzocchi_USA have the 053 shocks landed yet? or when are they supposed to?


Still looking at the end of April or so


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## Bushwacked (May 12, 2011)

Really tempted by a 350ncr to go on my canyon spectral instead of a set of pikes. I'm surprised there arent more reviews - good or bad - out there yet - can anyone who has used or owned a pair for a while share their experiences? how have they held out? Any loss of performance? Have you had to service them yet? Do they cope with harsh / muddy winters ok? Ive heard about some issues with the stantion coating - is this isolated?

If they are as good as my 55ti forks I'll be seriously happy


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Bushwacked said:


> Really tempted by a 350ncr to go on my canyon spectral instead of a set of pikes. I'm surprised there arent more reviews - good or bad - out there yet - can anyone who has used or owned a pair for a while share their experiences? how have they held out? Any loss of performance? Have you had to service them yet? Do they cope with harsh / muddy winters ok? Ive heard about some issues with the stantion coating - is this isolated?
> 
> If they are as good as my 55ti forks I'll be seriously happy


The soating problems we saw were on the gold ones, not the new Espresso ones and that was a small batch, not very widespread.

I have Bikemag.com on an NCR Ti now and MTBR just got an NCR air so look for reviews soon


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Bushwacked said:


> Really tempted by a 350ncr to go on my canyon spectral instead of a set of pikes. I'm surprised there arent more reviews - good or bad - out there yet - can anyone who has used or owned a pair for a while share their experiences? how have they held out? Any loss of performance? Have you had to service them yet? Do they cope with harsh / muddy winters ok? Ive heard about some issues with the stantion coating - is this isolated?
> 
> If they are as good as my 55ti forks I'll be seriously happy


the 350 NCR is seriously better than the 55 models, significantly smoother


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

FYI to everyone I am moving on from Marzocchi USA so this thread will be unmanned for a while while Mat and Alex get it sorted out about who will answer questions here on MTBR. Plus all next week everyone will be at Sea Otter. 

cheers to all!

-DM


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Sad to see you go. I hope your eventual replacement here shares your honest opinions and helpful answers.


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## mojo5pro (Mar 20, 2010)

Good luck with your move...are you staying within the biking industry?


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Before you go, 
There are some rumors on the web that Marzocchi is closing. It´s unclear if they will only close their facilities in Italy or worldwide (I really hope it´s only in Italy).
Do you have any info or can you clear that for us? 
Sorry for the latin spoken links, one is in italian and the other in spanish.

Marzocchi y su cierre inminente | Montenbaik

Crisi alla Marzocchi addio alle forcelle piÃ¹ famose del mondo - la Repubblica.it


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

mojo5pro said:


> Good luck with your move...are you staying within the biking industry?


Yeah, I'll be moving over to Crank Brothers as their sports marketing manager. wicked stoked about it! As a long time user of their stuff it's pretty much a dream job and move for me.



I'll have to open up my own account here, at least to answer CB questions. and yes, I am keeping all my Marzocchi products, that **** is sweet!

-DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

artishouk said:


> Before you go,
> There are some rumors on the web that Marzocchi is closing. It´s unclear if they will only close their facilities in Italy or worldwide (I really hope it´s only in Italy).
> Do you have any info or can you clear that for us?
> Sorry for the latin spoken links, one is in italian and the other in spanish.
> ...


The unions there have blown it all up. This whole story is for our moto division as they have been suffering for a while so Tenneco is going to pull the plug on them. Because the unions run the building in Italy they went on strike after hearing of their shutdown. our MTB division work inside the same building.

Everything is business as usual from all we have been told here in the US. I have seen 2016 product and production is still going in Taiwan, I saw the production updates this week so I wouldn't pay much attention to any of the news out there.

-DM


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

Kiwiplague said:


> Sad to see you go. I hope your eventual replacement here shares your honest opinions and helpful answers.


Thanks! I'm sure Mat and/or Alex will keep it real.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

Do I have time for one more easy question ? ; )

Do the 380 lower legs fit on 888/66s ? Thanks!

Also, thanks a lot for answering everyone's questions here, this is great customer service and part of why I am happy to be on Marzocchi products. More companies should do this. Best of luck with your new projects!


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## Marzocchi_USA (Jun 17, 2014)

guim said:


> Do I have time for one more easy question ? ; )
> 
> Do the 380 lower legs fit on 888/66s ? Thanks!
> 
> Also, thanks a lot for answering everyone's questions here, this is great customer service and part of why I am happy to be on Marzocchi products. More companies should do this. Best of luck with your new projects!


the 380 lowers won't work on the 888 or 66, they are different widths.

thanks!


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

been riding the 350 ti and after getting the preload dialed that thing is so sick. just like the old zochs but more refined. the charts for recommended preload are waayyyyy off


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

That's odd. I settled on 95psi for my 350 NCR (at 210lbs riding weight) which is pretty much what the chart suggests.

This surprised me because previous Marzocchi fork manuals seemed like they were written by someone on crack as they were always way off  But the NCR and NCR TI are two completely different forks so I guess it's comparing apples to oranges.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

henkster said:


> That's odd. I settled on 95psi for my 350 NCR (at 210lbs riding weight) which is pretty much what the chart suggests..


That's because you have an air fork, whereas invol2ver has a fork with a titanium coil, the 350NCR Ti, which has air preload with a coil main spring. Marzocchi only do one weight spring, so the only way to get sag is with the air pre-load system, which has always been a bit finicky in it's set up, in that even going slightly over the recommended psi can make the fork very harsh.


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Any setup suggestions for my new 350 NCR(everyday use)? The first ride was a little bit harsh..


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

w/o any knowledge or experience other than riding Marzocchi forks ownly for 15 yrs., i would set the sag as much as you feel comfortable with, but not more than 35%, as little comp. adj. as feels right , just enough rebound to to be effective & ride it as hard & often as you can. Marz. seals take some time to wearin before stiction loosens up. 
do you know about the oil level in the fork? did a LBS check it? i'd check it myself if it was mine, but i hear Marz. frowns on that to the point of voiding warranty! true? i'm not sure, but you need to know the oil is right.


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

I ride at around 160 lbs and run the 350 NCR Air with 70 psi and 10 clicks of compression damping. 
Since the damper is sealed I believe the only oil you can check is the little bit that goes in the legs for lubrication.
Btw, I love the fork!


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

psycle-on said:


> I ride at around 160 lbs and run the 350 NCR Air with 70 psi and 10 clicks of compression damping.
> Since the damper is sealed I believe the only oil you can check is the little bit that goes in the legs for lubrication.
> Btw, I love the fork!


How about the rebound?


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

nhodge said:


> Ride it as hard & often as you can. Marz. seals take some time to wear in before stiction loosens up.


This. If that was your first ride on your fork, then you may need to give it at least a couple more rides for it to wear in. If it doesn't feel better in a couple of rides, then I'd start to think about checking the oil levels.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

psycle-on said:


> Since the damper is sealed I believe the only oil you can check is the little bit that goes in the legs for lubrication.


The 350NCR uses the DBC cartridge, which uses the splash/bath oil in the lowers, so it isn't a completely sealed system. Under big compression events then oil is forced out of a small hole in the top of the cart and then new oil is sucked into it from a one way valve at the base of the valve. This means that if you do add or replace the splash oil, then you need to make sure it is the same weight that Marz specifies, otherwise you may end up changing the compression and rebound characteristics of the fork.


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

looperx said:


> How about the rebound?


I knew I was forgetting something! I am at work now but can check the rebound tonight. I have it set reasonably fast though.


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Kiwiplague said:


> The 350NCR uses the DBC cartridge, which uses the splash/bath oil in the lowers, so it isn't a completely sealed system. Under big compression events then oil is forced out of a small hole in the top of the cart and then new oil is sucked into it from a one way valve at the base of the valve. This means that if you do add or replace the splash oil, then you need to make sure it is the same weight that Marz specifies, otherwise you may end up changing the compression and rebound characteristics of the fork.


Thats why after every big and fast hit the fork makes a noise like it vacuums air?


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

psycle-on said:


> I knew I was forgetting something! I am at work now but can check the rebound tonight. I have it set reasonably fast though.


I am running 15 clicks in from fully open.


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## CS645 (Dec 9, 2011)

What offset will the new 350+ be running and will the normal 350 get and updated offset up from the current 40mm?


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## mekaw (May 26, 2010)

Those of you running 350ncr TI, how much pressure are you running in preload, for someone around 210~220lbs.
Personally hate running cheap fix with air preload but there's no firmer spring for it. Hopefully there will be more spring options soon


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## Bristecom (Aug 17, 2009)

I'm curious about that new (red) single lip seal. Is it made by SKF? And how does it compare with their current SKF (green) seal?


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Kiwiplague said:


> This. If that was your first ride on your fork, then you may need to give it at least a couple more rides for it to wear in. If it doesn't feel better in a couple of rides, then I'd start to think about checking the oil levels.


I have bought Golden Spectro and Molykote and i am planning to open my 350 NCR to check the oil levels and lubricate it with Molykote. I 've watched this video www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWYuVziYtwk and i have a few questions. Do i have to remove the cartridge to check the oil level on this side? Also on which parts do i have to apply Molykote?


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## majlooo (Apr 30, 2015)

*Marzocchi 350 Espresso problem*

Hi. I have problem with my Marzocchi 350 CR with espresso coating, it's from Merida bike. This coating is damaged after about a month of riding. Where is the problem? Thanks for answer. Foto in attachment

View attachment 985074


View attachment 985075


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

looperx said:


> I have bought Golden Spectro and Molykote and i am planning to open my 350 NCR to check the oil levels and lubricate it with Molykote. I 've watched this video www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWYuVziYtwk and i have a few quetions. Do i have to remove the cartridge to check the oil level on this side? Also on which parts do i have to apply Molykote?


Previous post by OEM.They no longer use Golden spectro in their forks.


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

He said that they use Torco but Golden Spectro is fine. I have read some reviews and Golden Spectro is a very good fork oil. Could anyone help me with this? --> "Do i have to remove the cartridge to check the oil level on this side? Also on which parts do i have to apply Molykote?"


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

I only pointed it out as it may have a different CST values even though both are 7.5wt.


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Is there any update for the 053 S3C2R shock regarding the availability?


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

No news good news??


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

anybody else finding the 350 ti to be way to progressive? it seems to be really active and great for the first half of the stroke but way to progressive and stiff the last half which is really strange for a coil fork


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

I have the 350 NCR (non-ti) and can't fault it, but with my 380 ti it had the same issue. There's an elastomer bumper inside the coil on the 380 that would make the rate ramp up dramatically about 75% through the stroke. I cut the elastomer down by about 5mm at a time until I got the feel I wanted. Much improved things for me.

I'm assuming that the 350 has the same spring/elastomer-bottom-out-bumper thing going on inside. If not then nothing to see here, move along 

There's more here:
380 - anyone put a season on one? | Ridemonkey.com


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## giladgu (Jan 14, 2015)

is it possible to buy the insides of the coil NCR and put them into the air NCR?


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Uphill=sad said:


> Anyone pulled the lower legs of the NCR Ti's? the CR's is a simple job but the NCR's on the damper side the lower leg retaining bolt just rotates.
> 
> Since I live in a country without a service centre and warranty is not an issue, I'm happy to live with the consequences, but would rather not be randomly undoing bolts trial and error style.
> 
> Very unimpressed with the lack of information out there, compared to other manufacturers.


Just though I would update this.

Fork was sent away (internationally - took 9 weeks for a turn around to occur).

Fork has been replaced under warranty, Damper unit was broken in some such way which made it impossible to undo, the stanchions had streaks occuring, from incorrect bushing tolerances, so both lowers and stanchions had to be replaced.

Question is do a sell the replacement forks whilst their brand new or risk more problems later on... this I haven't decided on yet. Great fork, but the warranty issues (3 of them) have soured it a little for me.

Still most unimpressed with the lack of technical information out there, release the freakn workshop manuals, corporate policy is not exactly great for the end user.


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

Uphill=sad said:


> Just though I would update this.
> 
> Fork was sent away (internationally - took 9 weeks for a turn around to occur).
> 
> ...


In the middle of the exact same experience except my fork also has scratched stanchions after the 4th ride. Already looking at a pike as soon as I get a new fork from them hopefully at some point this year.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

A bit of history: the fork had a clicking sound, so I gave it to local official Marzocchi dealer (as stated on marzocchi website).

Later after some abuse in the mountains the fork almost stopped working, after I came back I decided to service the fork myself and that is what I see on the air spring piston rod:
View attachment 988531


WTF is that blue resin crap? I think that blue stuff is the solution by the shop to stop fork from clicking. Maybe someone disassembled 350 CR and can confirm that the blue stuff is or is not supposed to be there?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Can anyone post a pic of the piston of their 350 CR, please?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

well, just put the fork together without that blue stuff - works fine but the clicking sound returned. it seems it was their 'fix' for clicking sound.


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## Chromagftw (Feb 12, 2009)

invol2ver said:


> anybody else finding the 350 ti to be way to progressive? it seems to be really active and great for the first half of the stroke but way to progressive and stiff the last half which is really strange for a coil fork


Setting up the correct pressure in the air chamber for the *350 NCR Ti (coil version)* is a hit or miss affair. As you mentioned in your PM, the shock pump that included is garbage and what is needed is a low pressure pump with legible low end gauge readings. 
Im 77 kg RTR and the recommended 22 PSI turns the fork into one suffering from rigor mortis with all dials set to fully open. I tried 3 different 'normal' fork shock pumps with identical results. I recommend if anyone is having issues is to go by the # of hand pumps instead. 1 full pump over or under makes a huge difference when it comes to isolating that sweet spot.

With a regular shock pump for my weight, I've narrowed it down to between 14 - 16 full pumps based on my sag % and the conditions I ride. Go with # of pumps and not the gauge readings for the Ti model if experiencing difficulties.


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

if anyone is looking for a ti I have one for sale at a good price on pinkbike


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## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

Any idea when the mtbr and other review will be published?


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## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

yeah, I am still on the look out for a 350 NCR Ti review, reading some of the comments above i am a little worried about the build quality!

I have been riding a 66 Ti for over 3 years now and have put on around 7000 miles of riding in all conditions never once cracked them open or gotten them serviced. They are probably full of mud and water but they still work great. I am just finding them a little on the heavy side and i would love a climb mode for those long long road / fireroad climbs where you really really dont need any suspension, perhaps i should carry a block of wood to wedge between the crown and the wheel arch 

Anyhow back to the point in hand, anyone found any reviews at all or any other personal experiences with them would be great to know.


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

phat-ant said:


> yeah, I am still on the look out for a 350 NCR Ti review, reading some of the comments above i am a little worried about the build quality!
> 
> I have been riding a 66 Ti for over 3 years now and have put on around 7000 miles of riding in all conditions never once cracked them open or gotten them serviced. They are probably full of mud and water but they still work great. I am just finding them a little on the heavy side and i would love a climb mode for those long long road / fireroad climbs where you really really dont need any suspension, perhaps i should carry a block of wood to wedge between the crown and the wheel arch
> 
> Anyhow back to the point in hand, anyone found any reviews at all or any other personal experiences with them would be great to know.


There are a couple of reviews in German sites, as threads on german forums. I used google Translate at the moment, but translation was bad, so no good for me. If there is a German/English speaker in this forum who could help us with a summary, I think there is plenty of us who would much appreciate it...

I am also worried about the quality, as with the fact that Tenneco is looking how to close or sell the factory. Let´s hope that some company in the business buys Marzocchi soon


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## phat-ant (Apr 25, 2006)

hi Artishouk, do you have any URLs handy that you could post up for us to look over? I cant speak German either but would still be curious to have a look.
Thanks


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

This one is in spanish (my native language, but it says more about the R and CR than the NCR)
Hilo de las nuevas Marzocchi 350 | ForoMTB.com

Over here it gets a lightly biased review because of the weather (mainly snow) and comparison with Pike and Fox 36
Im Test: Marzocchi 350 NCR - Dirt Magazine DE

This is a Tech Seminar from Marzocchi from Sicklines
Â» Tech Seminar : 2015 Marzocchi Suspension - Sick Lines â€" mountain bike reviews, news, videos | Your comprehensive downhill and freeride mountain bike resource

A forum thread on Ridemoney
Marz 350 goes coil for 2015 | Ridemonkey.com

And a thread on a German forum asking for a comparison between Fox´s 36 and NCR
2015 Fox 36 Float 170mm vs Marzocchi 350 NCR Titanium - Erfahrungsaustausch - Federung & Co

It seems it was time for me to give something back to this forum! Hope it help you guys!


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## cockymonster (Nov 21, 2010)

Currently there is no review of the ti version available. the reviews mentioned above all don't refer to the ti version. The German thread holds no information yet, because no one on there has ridden the fork yet...


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Hi, i weigh about 85kg, im considering buying marzocchi 350CR, some of the tests says that those forks are designed for heavier riders, and i am looking for very good small bump sensitivity, summing up, should i get that fork?
also, is this true that 350CR works way better with the air preload disabled completely?


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

The 350CR is an air spring and I think you have it confused with the 350NCR Ti that has the Ti spring with a low pressure air preload. From what I understand the 350NCR Ti's spring can be a little heavy for light riders, but more suited to the average/heavier rider. At 85Kg you'd probably need some pre-load to get the correct sag/spring rate anyway, you'd definitely not want to run it without any preload that's for sure.

With the 350CR and 350NCR you just pump up to the perfect pressure, adjust rebound/compression and roll. There's no preload. The small bump compliance is superb and the fork holds it's own in the bigger stuff just fine. I love mine.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

oh, rly? the 350CR is air fork? Im very confused with all the technology, on popular bike shop in poland it says "steel spring, air preload" Is this wrong or they've got some older fork for sale which has typical spring?


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

Yep, 350CR and 350 NCR are air forks. 350R and 350NCR Ti are coil forks with a low pressure air preload adjustment. I think the information is incorrect. You can check the Marzocchi site here:
Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension - 2015 forks - 350 series


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

yeah i did, ill contact the shop also. Anyway, do u own a pair of CR yourself?
and most important, how hard is it to service the 350CR? basic stuff like oil and seals change?


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

hey there Marzocchi Man,

what do you know about the availability of different rate springs for the 44 RC3 ti?


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

George Gr said:


> Is there any update for the 053 S3C2R shock regarding the availability?


Anything yet?


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## crank1979 (Feb 3, 2006)

I've been waiting about 2 months to be able to get the 350 NCR Titanium forks from an Australian distributor. Yesterday I picked up some Pikes instead. I'm still keen on some ride reports for the Marz forks though.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

And what about all the nice stuff we saw at Sea Otter? 350 plus fork and dropper post? when will they hit the market?


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

i had the ti. it was a disappointment to me. Feels nothing like a good coil fork. way to supple of the top and way to much progression off the bottom.


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Sold my pikes and keeping the NCR ti, just didn't get along with the pikes for the exact reason invol2ver highlighted why he didn't like the ti. 

Got my forks from Germany, at what will be a better price than locally if they are ever avaliable here (?), NSdynamics is the offical marzocchi warranty centre, with no issues having bought over seas.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

savo said:


> And what about all the nice stuff we saw at Sea Otter? 350 plus fork and dropper post? when will they hit the market?


From what I understand, the seatpost and +fork are both 2016 products due in late summer.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Marzocchi_USA said:


> The compression system on the LR models is fixed but the LCR models can be adjusted by us in house.
> 
> The natural coating (non-espresso) is a hard anodize finish probably the same as the Fox Evolution line. Without knowing their exact process I can't say for sure but it seems identical. Seals of the LR and LCR are the same for the 44mm offset but with the 51mm offset and 27.5" models they have a custom single seal system exclusive to those lower castings. These seals are lighter and have less friction than the standard black seals.
> 
> The LCR is white but black lowers will exist. the LCR Carbon comes in black and its lowers are the same as the LR and LCR non-carbon.


i'm in need of a lighter rate spring for a 2010 44 RC3 ti. can ya help out?
thanks


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

i have had the pike and the ncr ti. marzocchi needs to go back to the drawing board. build quality seems to be much better then the past but the dampening blows


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

invol2ver said:


> i have had the pike and the ncr ti. marzocchi needs to go back to the drawing board. build quality seems to be much better then the past but the dampening blows


I too have had a Pike and currently own a 350 NCR and 380 C2R2 Ti and I'm at a loss to understand your opinion. The damping of the Marzocchi forks is superb, I've not had one issue. Both forks are very controlled and work superbly.

No obligation, but could you explain your thoughts? They're a world away from my experiences.


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

I road the 380 and the 380 feels awesome. I have heard good things about the 350 air but I have never tried one. The 350 ti feels nothing like the 380. There is something strange going on inside of that thing. It almost feels way to supple off the top but when you start pushing it the progression feels like your hitting a wall. I messed with the preload for 2 months. Going by .5 psi with a digital low pressure pump. It is either divey or it feels way to stiff like you could nose dive off the empire state building and only get about 3/4 travel


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

Does the 350 Ti have one of those elastomers at the base of the spring like the 380 Ti does? If so then I had the same symptoms at about 6" through the travel, it was super plush and then thump it would hit a wall and I couldn't get anything close to travel - maybe 6.5" max.

It's a super easy fix though, I spotted a post on a German forum and the guys there were just popping the spring and elastomer out and then cutting the elastomer down to taste. I removed about 40mm off the one in my 380 and it's now legendary according to everyone who rides it. The elastomer only kicks in right at the end of travel and the HSC damping circuit is all I need to tweak the fork depending on the course I'm racing on.

To me it doesn't sound like it's a damping issue that you have, more that pesky elastomer that gets in the way of a decent linear-ish stroke. Sort the elastomer out and you can get the spring rate set up correctly. From there the damping will come naturally

I've never been happier with a fork. I wouldn't have said that a week after getting it though!

It's a shame that there's so little product support here, otherwise I think that some riders would be feeling better about the products. If you've got good support from your LBS then it's all fine and dandy but otherwise you're on your own to muddle through stuff like this.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

..and the 350 NCR doesn't have any of the above issues. It's just sweet. Has been from an hour of getting it out of the box, way better than my older Pike but tough to say if it's better/as good/worse than the latest generation of Pike. I'd say that it's at that point where is probably down to rider preference.


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## Renegade (May 10, 2004)

So where are the new shocks? The 2015 year is half over already.


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

Will a 350 NCR or CR be able to handle a 260lb, 120kg rider? 

I've looked at the instructions and the rider weight settings only go up to around 210lb, 105kg.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Renegade said:


> So where are the new shocks? The 2015 year is half over already.


On ebay for 700$. Like ccdb. This is crazy.

BTW, I fixed my 350CR myself and it worked great.. until I broke my wrist and ruined weekend at a bikepark. Now I'm out for 5-6 weeks


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

Gotta say the lack of reviews or info on these forks anywhere on the net other than this thread is weird. I'm really keen to get a pair of 350 NCR's but there's nothing at all out there. Not even a video from Marzocchi about it or anything. Earlier in this thread David from Marzocchi was saying forks had been sent out for review, but that was last year... And since he left there's been hardly any info on here.

These forks have been out for nearly 2 years and there's nothing. They look perfect for what I want but very hard to get them with zero info. Would it hurt Marzocchi to even put a video up on youtube with a better look at the forks. They've made the effort to show how to adjust travel and change the lockout switch, but no general video. C'mopn guys, I had Zokes 15 years ago, and loved them, would love to get a new pair, but you make it very hard to make that decision.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

I've seen a ton of "first look" reviews, but there are only a couple that can recall. The Enduro reviews are pretty good

Enduro had a review in this issue's fork grouptest:
Issue 016 INTERNATIONAL

There's a standalone review here too:
Team Tested: The 2015 Marzocchi 350 NCR Fork | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine

There's also this one (but it needs translating if you don't speak Italian):
[Test] Marzocchi 350 NCR | MTB-MAG.COM

There's definitely a lack of longer term reviews, but then again these tend to take longer to schedule, get written and then published - so they tend to take a while before they surface. It's a shame, but welcome to reality


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

thanks henkster, seen teh first one, but the Italian one looks good, at least it has some decent pics! Now to translate.


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Now that Marzocchi is going bust, can we get the workshop manuals for the 350 series, thanks.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

...and the 380 as well please.

Although I think that Marzocchi representation on this thread has long left, even my emails are unanswered now. <sigh>


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Uphill=sad said:


> Now that Marzocchi is going bust, can we get the workshop manuals for the 350 series, thanks.


That's not exactly what's happening, Tenneco, their parent company, have put them up for sale, good article on PB - Marzocchi is Dead, Long Live Marzocchi - Pinkbike. Closing them would be the last, worst case scenario. Still, not great news, but it has been coming for a while though. That period from 2008 - 2010 really stuffed the brand for a lot of consumers and you can still see a lot of residual bias towards Marz in a lot of forum threads.

Agree on the workshop manuals though, would love one for my 55CR!


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

Renegade said:


> So where are the new shocks? The 2015 year is half over already.


I have an info that they are about to arrive in the first two weeks of July.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

henkster said:


> ...and the 380 as well please.
> 
> Although I think that Marzocchi representation on this thread has long left, even my emails are unanswered now. <sigh>


Yeah, he has. About a month or so ago he told everybody here that he was leaving Marzocchi, so wouldn't be posting here anymore.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Kiwiplague said:


> Agree on the workshop manuals though, would love one for my 55CR!


55/350 CRs are pretty straightforward.

There is a video of NCR which will give you some ideas how to disassemble the fork:





and there is also a video how to bleed the cartridge





I've done service on my CR 2 times without bleeding the cartridge, today I plan to do the full service. I like the fact that CR is so simple.

PS: now I'm thinking about making coil version of it if I'll find some used cheap 350R.


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## Horacek (Apr 20, 2009)

Anyone ridden or riding the 350 R model? I've picked them up really cheap but wondering whether I should have spent abit more (haven't mounted them yet).


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Been naughty and have been pulling apart and playing with my 350 ti's.

I like others on here found they ramped up a lot in the last few inches of travel, the coil side has a 200ml oil bath that flows between the lowers and inner stanchion area.

Using the principle of boyles law, I removed 25ml of oil, so the 'air' chamber size is larger due to less oil, and viola! a more linear fork that has less ramp up (didn't need that where I ride) and therefore uses more travel and feels how I like a fork to feel.

If anything goes wrong... I won't be telling a service centre what I have done, i'll just put the extra oil back and send them off.


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

Just a little update on my 350 NCR. The first one I got hard scratched stanchions in the first 4 rides. I sent it off to be fixed and ended up waiting over winter and a few months after to get a new CSU and lowers. I ended up waiting for them get parts for 8 months and I guess I didnt qualify for a new fork. In the mean time I got a coil revelation with the mid valve rebound damper and a pike rc on good deals to try out and ride in the mean time. The revelation was very good and super smooth the pike i found to be too progressive with one token and wouldnt blow off on square edge bump but would still bottom out on small drops and sometimes bottom out hard. 
Got my marzocchi back and right away it was amazing. Very smooth and felt just like a coil fork even though it's air. After a few rides no signs of stanchion scratches. And I dont expect any since the fork feels very smooth and free going up and down. I played around with oil in the air chamber to make it linear and it's amazing. Blows off square edge hits no problem, has lots of support if i want it with the adjuster and is very active but doesn't bottom out hard ever. Small bump sensitivity is very good, pretty much the same as the coil revelation which was amazing.
In the end I'm keeping the revelation as a spare fork and selling the pike and never looking back. I believe the marzocchi damper is better than the pike, the pike I think needs the upgrade kit from avalanche suspension. And this isn't just my pike I tried other peoples bikes with a pike and they all feel the same.

If youre thinking of this fork then I would suggest it but try it out first to make sure you dont get tight lowers so it lasts for a long time.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

I Just ordered a 350 CR and waiting for delivery next week, hopefully it is as good as the Marz lovers say it is. I went with it for few reasons:

Firstly I was looking for something different than a Pike. Granted that test suspensions rides are rarely set up prefect, but of the few Pike's that I tested, I have not been blown away like everyone makes out. It might be stiffer but in terms of performance there wasn't that much between the Pike and my RCT3 Revelation (enduro seals and 2 x tokens) if any.

And there seems to be a growing trend in-between the fanboys that the Pikes (and other bladder systems) are great out-the-box, but difficult for the home mechanics to re-bleed to get the ongoing out-of-box performance.

I also wanted fork that have the option to install an Avalanche racing cartridge. An attempt to future proof my purchase.

But two things settled it for me and made me pull the trigger:
1. 40 mm offset. I still ride 26", so less change to my current sweet spot geo.
2. Price. At half the price of a Pike or Fox 34, if the 350 is not up to scratch, I can put the Avalanche cartridge in and still have money to spare.

I didn't bother with the NCR as I never use any lockout or platform compression on my forks anyway, always run them full open, so it would have been spending a extra couple hundred just for the expresso coating.

But I have seen a few things saying the Marz's don't come from the factory with enough fluid. So I am keen to regrease the seals and replace/top up the fluid before bolting it to the bike. 

Anyone thats done a service got some advice on the best way to do a lower leg service? 

Follow the videos above and come in from the top? Or

Unbolt from the bottom like a RS Lower Leg Service and leave the rest alone.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Bluman8 said:


> But I have seen a few things saying the Marz's don't come from the factory with enough fluid. So I am keen to regrease the seals and replace/top up the fluid before bolting it to the bike.
> 
> Anyone thats done a service got some advice on the best way to do a lower leg service?
> 
> ...


I'd recommend to do a lowers service right out of the box (if you don't care about warranty).

First of all - CRs(2013-2014 55CR and 350CR, dunno about 2015) have an issue with the air piston - the foam ring on the piston, which helps to pump oil from lowers to air chamber, thus fork progressive as hell. I'd suggest to swap it for o-ring.

Also, I'd strongly recommend to use Molykote55 on seals - other greases really sucks comparing to it.

Yes, just unscrew lowers and pull them off. Very easy. To service the cartridge and air spring just follow the videos, pretty easy too.

Oh, and one important thing: be extra careful with amount of oil you put into the air chamber. With just about 5ml you'll have superplush and very linear fork and compression won't help a lot - fork will blow through the travel easily. 20ml of oil, like in the video, it will be VERY progressive. I've stopped at 12ml of oil, it is still pretty much linear but it doesn't blow through the travel and is a bit progressive at the end of a stroke, may be 15ml would be better, but for now I like it this way.


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

graved1gger said:


> Yes, just unscrew lowers and pull them off. Very easy. To service the cartridge and air spring just follow the videos, pretty easy too.


where do i find the videos please?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

savo said:


> where do i find the videos please?


A few posts earlier:


graved1gger said:


> There is a video of NCR which will give you some ideas how to disassemble the fork:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1. Air piston in the CR is the same as one in NCR. (BTW in the video there is no foam ring on the piston, instead they have a u-ring. SO for everyone who have foam ring on the air piston change it at least for o-ring)
2. Bleeding procedure for CR is the same as for LR. It worked fine for me. But the compression is to be fully opened as well as rebound.


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Don't worry, reducing the travel won't void your warranty.
more intel. The Marzocchi Workshop


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

graved1gger said:


> A few posts earlier.


Thanks


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

cadoretteboat said:


> Don't worry, reducing the travel won't void your warranty.
> more intel. The Marzocchi Workshop


If you search this thread you'll find that David wrote that it is Marzocchi policy that every service should be done only by official service centers (even simple lowers service).

Also, that article has an error, they wrote "CR model: ... the air tube in the CR is not removable." but this is false. Especially this is funny because they posted a pic with a scheme where the air tube is removable. In fact procedure to lower/service air spring is the same. And a proof: My 350CRs lowers, air tube and air piston(without foam ring)


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Travel reducer bushing include in the retail box and an how to videos from the manufacturer. IF done right, they will be no trouble with warranty.
Do mistake, brake a part or do short cut when deasemble/rebuilding they will know and, hey, maybe void the warranty.
This thread have plenty of what ''not to do''. and the Zoke guy provide top infos (Slick honey was one) about lowering travel, and talked about it very openely without trying to discourage anyone to do so. (exept one mentioned of ''technically'' ).


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

cadoretteboat said:


> and the Zoke guy provide top infos (Slick honey was one) about lowering travel, and talked about it very openely without trying to discourage anyone to do so. (exept one mentioned of ''technically'' ).


Don't make me search for the posts in this thread for you, don't be so lazy. That 'Zoke guy' was David and he wrote that if you pull off the lowers you void your warranty. And we had agreed that it is a stupid policy but it is like that.

Of cause, you can pull them off carefully, then put everything back and say you didn't do anything, but that is not the point.

Also Windwave is just a LOCAL STORE that represents Marzocchi in UK so this is not necessary official guide (in any case, they have a video how to bleed the cartridge but messing with the cartridge voids warranty no matter what)

---

I see that 053 shocks are now available in US, have anyone tried 053 yet?


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Wow someone had a rough week...And my greeting to Dave the ex Zoke guy (it's because of you i bought the 350).
Did you searched for it? It's all start at post 70. You need to read between the lines.
I dealt with a warranty issue on 350ncr (leaky air chamber) without hassle. (Zoke Canada) and they knew I had change the travel to 140 my self, and they returned it 160 config (same fork), called the rep to have him send me fork oil so i can do the reduction my self. no problemo and he also foward me the link to how to just in case and told me he was sorry.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

graved1gger said:


> Also Windwave is just a LOCAL STORE that represents Marzocchi in UK so this is not necessary official guide (in any case, they have a video how to bleed the cartridge but messing with the cartridge voids warranty no matter what)


Windwave is not a LOCAL STORE, they are the UK distributor for Marzocchi.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Thanks graved1gger. I will definitely do a service straight out of the box then.


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## Mslide (Apr 19, 2012)

graved1gger said:


> 55/350 CRs are pretty straightforward.
> 
> There is a video of NCR which will give you some ideas how to disassemble the fork:
> 
> ...


Hello,
I'd like to service my 350 CR but I'm a bit scared with the rebound knob.
I'm not sure how to disassemble it ?
Can you please help me ? If you have a picture/tuto it would be great


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Mslide said:


> Hello,
> I'd like to service my 350 CR but I'm a bit scared with the rebound knob.
> I'm not sure how to disassemble it ?
> Can you please help me ? If you have a picture/tuto it would be great


There is a explode view of the cr. 
here: The Marzocchi Workshop


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## Mslide (Apr 19, 2012)

Yes I see that...but there's no screw to fix the rebound knob !!

How do you proceed to pull it ? Do you use a tyre lever or something like that ?

I really don't want to destroy it...


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

use a thin tool like a blade as a lever to pull it out. I used a pair of scissors i think. it's a plastic knob, the worst you can do is to scratch the paint on it


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

grab it with a cloth and just kind of yank it out, worked for us. Friction fit, similar to what was on Lyriks for many years.


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## Mslide (Apr 19, 2012)

OK thanks I will try as you said...


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)




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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

Well... ouch.

This makes me very glad I didn't buy a 350 or an 053, but also extremely sad after two decades of (mostly) fantastic parts. Over the years I had a Z1, a AM-something, two Rocos and three sets of 55s (still got one on the wall), they were all great.


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## Tier1 (Apr 26, 2015)

Fix the Spade said:


> This makes me very glad I didn't buy a 350 or an 053.


I'm considering buying an 053 and a 350 shock and fork when they will most likely go on firesale (because people will want to clear out their overhead). Compared to Suntours offerings (specifically Auron fork and Durolux shock) what do people think? Is there a deal to be had buying a firesaled Marz if I don't get dealer support after they shut down permanently (might have to buy some rebuild kits while I'm at it) or should I just go Suntour anyways?


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## 779334 (Oct 10, 2014)

Marzocchi out of business.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Tier1, I just ordered a 350 last week. The rumours of Marz going out of business have been around for a couple months now and I will certainly be watching the fire sale. I ordered the Marz for the platform not an ability to have on-going support. There are plenty of aftermarket options for servicing and replacing parts in forks. I already put enduro for seals in all my forks and failing that I'm sure that the local suspension specialist have enough o-ring inventory to do an internal component service. And realistically how long does anyone actually own a fork or shock before they move on a new bike or the latest tech.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

It sounds like they are being sold. 
To be continued.........


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## talabardio (Oct 6, 2009)

Swissam said:


> It sounds like they are being sold.
> To be continued.........


Maybe DVO is buying them.


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## Fix the Spade (Aug 4, 2008)

talabardio said:


> Maybe DVO is buying them.


Well, that would have a nice circularity to it, to see DVO getting rebranded with the big old M logo...


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## alf2 (Nov 22, 2007)

Ist it possible to change the travel on a 350 ncr titanium? 
Or is it only possible with the air Version?


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

I've been running my 380 C2R2 Ti since March, pretty much flat out in all sorts of conditions, just washing and spraying the stanchions with Fork Juice to keep them feeling plush. I guess they have about 200 hours riding on them... needless to say they were feeling a little sticky, especially in the upper-mid stroke.

Pulling them apart is an absolute doddle in the spring leg. Just pull it apart, drain, clean it all up inside (my oil was a horrible grey color, definitely past it's best), clean the seals, popped some Molykote 55 between the seals and on the spring, and then poured 70ml of Spectro Golden in the leg.

The damper side is pretty simple assuming that you're ignoring the damping cartridge. My plan was to just ignore it, purging and refilling a semi-sealed unit sounded a bit complicated. I was just going to replace whatever oil drained out and then flush again in a week or two. However, just pumping the cartridge emptied it out. Just pop some grease in the seals, refill with oil and pop it back together. With the damping circuits all set to open, I bounced the fork up and down for a bit to refill the cartidge. When setting the dials back to the previous settings it all felt good, so I guess that works.

The only issues that might trip you up are that the bolt at the bottom of the legs has a tendency to spin along with the rod that it screws onto (so a very light impact wrench worked a treat for me) and I also noticed that about 125ml of oil came out of the damping leg, which is about 55ml over spec. The fork had an odd ramp up in the upper-mid stroke that a few other people have mentioned, and so I cut the elastomer down, but the excess oil also seems to have affected the stroke adversely. With the correct levels the fork feels much better.

The fork feels sensational now. While my 2014 888 went about the same time between services it didn't really feel that much different after the service, and it's a fork that you can just run and run and forget about - but the 380 seems to need a little more care and attention to keep feeling that magic.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

My new 350 CR forks arrived last week so I dropped the lowers to re grease the seals and top up the fluid. Things weren't in to bad shape though, damper side had plenty of fluid, not so much in the air side, I would say it was dry though. Some fluid did come out of the air valve will I let the air out though. 

So I regressed the o-rings with molykote 55 and added 40 mm (amount advised by Marzocchi USA via email) of Rock Oil (3/4 5wt: 1/4 15wt) in each leg and installed a travel ring cause I can stand the half-ass zip tie method of setting sag.

Oh how nice it was just undo the lower bolts, no tapping to losses, no crush washers especially when I got the lowers back on bolted up and tested the travel without any air and ..... couldn't get full travel measured about 150-155 travel.... So I unbolted the air lower, poured out some oil and then retested... no luck... unbolted the damper lower, poured out some oil and then retested... still no luck... not a big deal really since I'm coming from a 150 Rev anyway, but just one of those things that niggle at you... like a creaky bike.

Anybody know if this is due to:
- Too much oil in the Air or Damper side? 
- Migration of oil into the air piston chamber (suggested by the release of oil when letting air our of the valve
- Air in the damper side? When undoing the lower bolt of the damper side there is a rush of air either in or out (not sure which way just yet).
- Just one of those things where the manufacture is rounding to whole numbers?

I'm getting a bit low of Rock Oil now so don't really want to do a full change if I can get away with just letting a bit of oil out.


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

mine had problems getting full travel too. i made sure to put only 25ml of oil in the lowers in each leg because too much oil will reduce the volume too much and cause it to be too progressive. i also compress the fork all the way before installing the foot nuts on the lowers to make sure there is little air in the lowers. I also removed the foam ring from the air piston as mentioned before and replaced with an oring. I then put 5ml of fox float fluid in the air chamber on top of the piston because i think its better than just regular oil.

after about 10 rides including one dh day the fork bottoms out when it needs to and its still consistent and feels the same as the day i put it together. that means all the oil stayed where it needs to be and the stanchions inside are getting enough oil because when riding it feels very smooth still. the fork is also very linear like coi


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Bluman8 said:


> - Too much oil in the Air or Damper side?


25ml in lowers - you can't go wrong with it.



> - Migration of oil into the air piston chamber (suggested by the release of oil when letting air our of the valve


Highly possible. But some amount of oil should be in the air chamber for progression.

I'd suggest you to try to remove all oil from air chamber. Turn the fork upside down and then let all the air out(oil will come out first ant then some air), then remove valve core and let the rest of the oil come out.

Install valve core back add some pressure and check if you can get full travel. Probably you will but the fork will be very linear. So again, let the air out, remove valve core, put something like 10ml in air chamber, reinstall core and pump. If the fork is still linear increase oil level in air chamber incrementally.

Also, there is a big chance that oil will migrate from lowers to air chamber eventually if you have a foam ring and the air piston, it should be changed for o-ring.

---
Oh, wait. When the fork is fully compressed ~5mm of stanchions is still visible and when fully extended stanchions measure ~165mm.


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

Use my 350 NCR for a few weeks and can't set a small/middle bumps sensitivity. The fork feels too harsh, it's quite active in the middle and at the end but the first 30% is very hard. I'm 175lbs, put 67-80psi and 5 clicks of compression. The pressure seems to be ok, use almost all of the travel but have never bottomed out riding standard, easy trails. When I set the pressure at 60psi, finally felt right - supple and active, with a nice small and middle bumps sensivity, still supportive. I loved how the fork worked but started bottoming out hard a few times every ride on middle-hard trails. The quesrion is - how to keep this nice, active work and add justba bit higher progression at the very end of the stroke?


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Pitr said:


> Use my 350 NCR for a few weeks and can't set a small/middle bumps sensitivity. The fork feels too harsh, it's quite active in the middle and at the end but the first 30% is very hard. I'm 175lbs, put 67-80psi and 5 clicks of compression. The pressure seems to be ok, use almost all of the travel but have never bottomed out riding standard, easy trails. When I set the pressure at 60psi, finally felt right - supple and active, with a nice small and middle bumps sensivity, still supportive. I loved how the fork worked but started bottoming out hard a few times every ride on middle-hard trails. The quesrion is - how to keep this nice, active work and add justba bit higher progression at the very end of the stroke?


Add to the air chamber (start at) 5cc of oil shock. It will give you more progression at the end,


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

cadoretteboat said:


> Add to the air chamber (start at) 5cc of oil shock. It will give you more progression at the end,


Do I need to drop the lowers? It will probably cancel my warranty. I've also read about some serious problems with tightening the lower damper side bolt.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Pitr said:


> Do I need to drop the lowers? It will probably cancel my warranty. I've also read about some serious problems with tightening the lower damper side bolt.


let all of the air out and unscrew the valve core, then put in oil incrementally - i'd suggest by 1-2ml until you'll have desired progression


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

graved1gger said:


> let all of the air out and unscrew the valve core, then put in oil incrementally - i'd suggest by 1-2ml until you'll have desired progression


Easy, thanks! Is there any oil in the air chamber right out of the box or this is kind of "home made" tuning trick?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Pitr said:


> Easy, thanks! Is there any oil in the air chamber right out of the box or this is kind of "home made" tuning trick?


Mine had some oil in it(a lot actually, it sucked it from the lowers to air chamber), friend's 55 also had some.

In any case, you can check. Turn the fork upside down (well, you even can try without removing it from the bike) put some kind of can under the valve(to collect oil) and let the air out - some oil probably will come out. Then turn the fork back and add ~10ml of oil to the air chamber, screw the core back, pump the fork up and check - if you need more progression - add more oil.

Considering that the fork felt harsh for you and you lowered the pressure I thought that you have problem with migrating oil, but NCRs do not have foam ring on air piston so that is not a problem. So I think it is the dry seals, drop the lowers, use molykote55 on bushings and wipers\seals. I'm not sure about warranty anymore, but probably it will be voided.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

I finally got the new 350 installed and some time to have a quick test ride yesterday










Still need to get it dialled in, but started with 75 PSI and 4 clicks of LSC, 5 clicks of rebound. It certainly is a smooth fork compared to the old revelation. Just need to perfect the set up.

What I wasn't expecting to notice though was how stiff the 350 is. There are a few off camber corners and a couple berms on my test track where I usually have to back off a bit and work the bike around even with the pikes I've tested, but the 350 was so stable and direct and it stayed up in its travel right through the berms....even my Strava was impressed.....haha.

A quick confirmation question on tuning.

LSC knob: 
+ direction = more compression damping, correct?


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Bluman8 said:


> A quick confirmation question on tuning.
> LSC knob:
> + direction = more compression damping, correct?


Yes.


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## mofrank (Dec 29, 2010)

well, i've fallen for the deal of a brand new, taken-off oem 350CR, which is now has some slightly visible marks on the esspresso coating.. so i can say hello to any warranty claims i guess.
my suspect is the bushing, so i've contacted a local magician who can resize/adjust the bushings for ~$80.

oh, and i've heard that the 350's csu is interchangeable with the 55'd csu. could it be?


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## alf2 (Nov 22, 2007)

I own a Marzocchi 350 NCR Titanium (coil).
Is it possible to reduce the Travel like on the Air Version? (There are Spacers in the box)


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## M1_joel (Mar 9, 2004)

is there an aluminum or Ti standard thru axle replacement for the 350cr's quick release?


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

graved1gger said:


> Mine had some oil in it(a lot actually, it sucked it from the lowers to air chamber), friend's 55 also had some.
> 
> In any case, you can check. Turn the fork upside down (well, you even can try without removing it from the bike) put some kind of can under the valve(to collect oil) and let the air out - some oil probably will come out. Then turn the fork back and add ~10ml of oil to the air chamber, screw the core back, pump the fork up and check - if you need more progression - add more oil.
> 
> Considering that the fork felt harsh for you and you lowered the pressure I thought that you have problem with migrating oil, but NCRs do not have foam ring on air piston so that is not a problem. So I think it is the dry seals, drop the lowers, use molykote55 on bushings and wipers\seals. I'm not sure about warranty anymore, but probably it will be voided.


I did what you suggested. Opened the air side, removed the air chamber and add some oil (10-15ml). There was some alloy filings which was very strange. Cleaned it and put together. Pumped like 67psi which is more then before when the forks worked nice but bottomed out. The forks felt much more smooth with some oil in it but bottomed out on 3ft drop, even with more pressure. Pumped to 70psi and can stil bit it on any small drop. Do you have any suggestions?


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

Did you add extra to the air chamber or just the bath oil?Keep adding 5ml at a time to the air chamber through the air valve.On my 55CR I had up to 30ml of oil above the piston depending on the travel spacers I was using. At the same time back off the compression as it's low speed comp and affecting your small bump compliance. Try as little as you can get away with.Drop your air pressure 5 psi after you feel you can't bottom the fork and some high speed feedback starts creeping in. I set all my forks air pressures by first backing off all comp settings and riding over a g out on a gentle slope and lean fwd to try and bottom your fork. If you use most of the travel then your about right. When your on the trail hsc compression will kick in so you will use less travel. Repeat that process every time you add some oil and it gives you a baseline pressure to tune from when you go back on the trail. it may be a PITA but it's more accurate than travel tokens.I find with the Pike and the Rev that the tokens are convenient but to big. So you have to cut them down to get accurate air chamber tuning. One token too far is too progressive.


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Marzocchi suggest 25 ml.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Pitr said:


> I did what you suggested. Opened the air side, removed the air chamber and add some oil (10-15ml). There was some alloy filings which was very strange. Cleaned it and put together. Pumped like 67psi which is more then before when the forks worked nice but bottomed out. The forks felt much more smooth with some oil in it but bottomed out on 3ft drop, even with more pressure. Pumped to 70psi and can stil bit it on any small drop. Do you have any suggestions?


Add a bit more oil into the air chamber, easiest way is through the valve with unscrewed valve core.


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## nsmb (Aug 26, 2015)

Hi I have a 350r and was wondering how much pressure i should have in the air preload adjust, I just weigh 50kg. Any advise?
thanks.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

nsmb said:


> Hi I have a 350r and was wondering how much pressure i should have in the air preload adjust, I just weigh 50kg. Any advise?
> thanks.


Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension - 2015 forks - 350 R
adjustments

55 - 65 (121 - 143) - 1(0,15)

I'd suggest to leave it without air at all for you.


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

+1 to that. At your weight (or lack of) any air preload is going to end making your fork feel very stiff and compromise small bump response.


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## nsmb (Aug 26, 2015)

thanks for the advise. I was only riding 10 psi but I'll take the rest out and give it a go.


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

graved1gger said:


> Add a bit more oil into the air chamber, easiest way is through the valve with unscrewed valve core.


I did it, added around 10ml through the valve. I set the pressure a bit lower than before and the forks started to work very well! It's very hard to bottoms out, use all of the travel, it's plush and active.

BUT...

After the first ride in bikepark I noticed hardly creaking noise coming from the front end. It's loud and can feel it on the bar. I can do the noise stationary by my hands pushing forward and backward. On the trails is much worse, on bumps and while braking. I checked every single part at the front. I thought it was from the headsets but I checked and cleaned everything, put some fresh grease and changed the spacers. I'm sure that it's not the headsets. I found that the noise probably comes from the right (air) side of the fork. Unscrewed the top cap, take out the chamber and check it. Looks ok. Put some new grease and mount again but the noise is still there. That's not a small crackle, it's more like cracking and it's very worrying.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

Both my 66s have also been doing this clicking sound, and I had to send both of the to Marzocchi Canada to get them checked under warranty. They came back fine, and the clicking started a few rides after on one of them. I have found out that the sound probably comes from the spring slightly rotating on the upper adjuster cap, or just the cap's adjuster screw slightly moving in the top cap. I have undone the cap, greased the screw, greased the threads and put the cap back on there and they have been silent since then. Sometimes I had to turn the preload cap a few more clicks in our out to find the "sweet spot" where it doesn't click.

Kind of annoying, but I learnt to live with it. If you can completely get rid of the clicking and it comes back again, that means it's not something dangerous, otherwise it would still be there all the time.

I'd still send it to a Marzocchi service center to get it checked. They will rebuild it for free at the same time, and you'll get a better feeling fork back! They are really friendly and are really willing to help! Cheers!


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

Hello everyone. I own a 350 NCR. Its the third Marzocchi fork that i have bought. The thing is that i am having problem contacting with Marzocchi here in Europe. They don't answer to my emails. I am really unsatisfied with this situation!! Every other suspension company replies after 1 or 2 days. Marzocchi takes my money and then forgets me!! Does anyone has a valid email address except from [email protected]? Thanks!!


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

in the past months i wrote to that email addres (mtbitalia) being answered readily every time. but now... who knows what's going on in Marzocchi...


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## cheviotgoat (Sep 23, 2015)

Hi all there seems to be quite a few very knowledgable people on this post so i hope you can help me. ive purchased a set of marz 2014 320 lr that are set to 100mm 
im planning to split them and remove the spacer to extend the travel to 120mm .
i cant seem to find any info on how to do this on the web or you tube . so does anyone have any links or point me in the correct direction. also any tuning tips for 14 STONE RIDER would be appreciated thanks tam


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## cockymonster (Nov 21, 2010)

Has anybody tried or succeeded in lowering the 350CR or NCR to 120mm travel?
On the BTR ranger demo bike is a 350CR lowered to 120mm travel - would love to be able to do that as well, for a similar setup.

Marzocchi_US - any hints or how-to-dos?
http://forums.mtbr.com/member.php?u=772811
Thanks!


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## soderblom (Jan 27, 2009)

cockymonster said:


> Has anybody tried or succeeded in lowering the 350CR or NCR to 120mm travel?
> On the BTR ranger demo bike is a 350CR lowered to 120mm travel - would love to be able to do that as well, for a similar setup.
> 
> Marzocchi_US - any hints or how-to-dos?
> ...


Have you tried to follow the instructions in the blog of the Marzocchi distributor in the UK?
The Marzocchi Workshop


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## gvs_nz (Dec 13, 2009)

I've had my 55CR at 130 with a custom spacer. Two normal spacers as well as as adding more oil above the air piston to make it more progressive should work. Don't know how it will ride. 
Why not jut get the 320 LCR? They use the same type of DBC cartridge and air spring.


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

Has someone finally tested the 053 shock and can report on it? :-D
especially some comparisons to ccdb, vivid or kirk would be great.

I heard It is better than the ccdb air. Sounds interesting ;-) but someone needs to confirm it


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## George Gr (Apr 3, 2012)

And someone needs to find it in shops...
Kidding, but really it has gone too far with this...


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

I've been getting some real time on my 350CR lately and have noticed something that may occur on all forks, but I only stubbled on due to mid ride fettling of a new fork.... (Also something I didn't think happened of forks).... Set my fork up with 75psi at home (about 20degrees C) then about 2hrs into my ride (30+ degrees C) I stopped to adjust the pressure... Connected the shock pump and gauge read almost 100psi... 

Anyone else notice a significant change in pressure due to heat or actually set their fork up initially soft so it stiffens to appropriate spring rate once riding?

It's going to be an interesting some with this kind of variation with rides in Queensland regularly pushing 40 degree C.


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## Uphill=sad (Dec 8, 2011)

Did you check the pressure after a long downhill or sustained bit of riding, suspension movement does have friction with the by product being heat?

I've noticed my 350 ti's have 5-8 more psi after a long DH, not near as much as yours but enough to change the fork feel noticeably, especially when only running around 10psi.

I've not ever checked on other forks, but my air shocks suffer from sustained DH.


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## conman26 (Oct 19, 2015)

Marzocchi Lives on Apparently(Maybe if FOX does not take them apart):

Fox Factory Holding Corp. to Acquire Certain Assets of Marzocchi's Mountain Bike Product Line

Marzocchi's Mountain Bike Product Line Assets to Expand FOX's Ride Dynamics Performance Bicycle Suspension Product Portfolio

0 0 0 3 Print

October 19, 2015 16:05 ET | Source: Fox Factory Holding Corp.

SCOTTS VALLEY, Calif., Oct. 19, 2015 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Fox Factory Holding Corp. (NASDAQ:FOXF) ("FOX") today announced, that through certain of its subsidiaries, it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire certain specified assets of Marzocchi's mountain bike product lines. The Marzocchi business designs and manufactures motor bike and mountain bike suspension products. FOX expects the transaction to close in Q4 2015 and it is subject to customary closing conditions and is not expected to have a material impact on its anticipated financial results in either fiscal 2015 or 2016.

"We are excited to announce the agreement to acquire certain assets of the Marzocchi mountain bike product lines, which we believe is a significant opportunity for FOX to further expand the penetration of our bike suspension products across more price points," stated Larry L. Enterline, FOX's Chief Executive Officer. "The Marzocchi team has a long history of performance suspension experience and we believe that this highly complementary transaction will allow for the increased growth of the Marzocchi brand worldwide. We expect this transaction will bring together and strengthen two highly complementary product lines and allow for FOX to leverage its marketing, engineering, distribution, and supply chain resources to drive increased top-line growth and profitability."

FOX expects to report fiscal third quarter 2015 earnings results in early November and plans to provide additional financial and transactional details at that time.

About Fox Factory Holding Corp. (NASDAQ:FOXF)

Headquartered in Scotts Valley, CA, FOX designs and manufactures high-performance ride dynamics products primarily for bicycles, side-by-side vehicles, on-road and off-road vehicles and trucks, all-terrain vehicles, snowmobiles, specialty vehicles and applications, and motorcycles. For more than three decades, FOX's team of enthusiasts and professional athletes has been improving vehicle performance through a unique commitment to redefining ride dynamics.

FOX is a registered trademark of Fox Factory, Inc. NASDAQ Global Select Market is a registered trademark of The NASDAQ OMX Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
- See more at: Fox Factory Holding Corp. to Acquire Certain Assets of Marzocchi's Mountain Bike Product Line Nasdaq:FOXF


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## conman26 (Oct 19, 2015)

Per NASDAQ News Wire:

SCOTTS VALLEY, Calif., Oct. 19, 2015 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Fox Factory Holding Corp. (NASDAQ:FOXF) ("FOX") today announced, that through certain of its subsidiaries, it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire certain specified assets of Marzocchi's mountain bike product lines. The Marzocchi business designs and manufactures motor bike and mountain bike suspension products. FOX expects the transaction to close in Q4 2015 and it is subject to customary closing conditions and is not expected to have a material impact on its anticipated financial results in either fiscal 2015 or 2016. "We are excited to announce the agreement to acquire certain assets of the Marzocchi mountain bike product lines, which we believe is a significant opportunity for FOX to further expand the penetration of our bike suspension products across more price points," stated Larry L. Enterline, FOX's Chief Executive Officer. "The Marzocchi team has a long history of performance suspension experience and we believe that this highly complementary transaction will allow for the increased growth of the Marzocchi brand worldwide. We expect this transaction will bring together and strengthen two highly complementary product lines and allow for FOX to leverage its marketing, engineering, distribution, and supply chain resources to drive increased top-line growth and profitability." FOX expects to report fiscal third quarter 2015 earnings results in early November and plans to provide additional financial and transactional details at that time. About Fox Factory Holding Corp. (NASDAQ:FOXF) Headquartered in Scotts Valley, CA, FOX designs and manufactures high-performance ride dynamics products primarily for bicycles, side-by-side vehicles, on-road and off-road vehicles and trucks, all-terrain vehicles, snowmobiles, specialty vehicles and applications, and motorcycles. For more than three decades, FOX's team of enthusiasts and professional athletes has been improving vehicle performance through a unique commitment to redefining ride dynamics. FOX is a registered trademark of Fox Factory, Inc. NASDAQ Global Select Market is a registered trademark of The NASDAQ OMX Group, Inc. All rights reserved. - See more at: Fox Factory Holding Corp. to Acquire Certain Assets of Marzocchi's Mountain Bike Product Line Nasdaq:FOXF


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Fox Racing Shox Acquires Marzocchi - Pinkbike


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Rick Draper said:


> Fox Racing Shox Acquires Marzocchi - Pinkbike


I feel like a piece of history disappeared ...


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## Tier1 (Apr 26, 2015)

Man... I was kind of hoping that Shimano bought them out then they could be like SRAM and RockShox. I think Shimano ownership of the brand would have totally made sense.

I guess Fox is going on a buying spree though. They did buy Easton and RaceFace last year.


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## mofrank (Dec 29, 2010)

Tier1 said:


> Man... I was kind of hoping that Shimano bought them out then they could be like SRAM and RockShox. I think Shimano ownership of the brand would have totally made sense.
> 
> I guess Fox is going on a buying spree though. They did buy Easton and RaceFace last year.


shimano would never buy Marzocchi, since they're in love with Fox.


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## cadoretteboat (Aug 27, 2011)

Rick Draper said:


> Fox Racing Shox Acquires Marzocchi - Pinkbike


 Noooooooo.....


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## looperx (Jun 23, 2010)

I would like to convert the remote lockout of the 350 NCR to manual. Do you know if i can use the same compression knob or i have to use a different one for the manual lockout? :thumbsup:


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

So next year, does anyone think it will be likely that you will be able to call Fox and get warranty work or a seal kit for your Marzocchi stuff? 
There are some good deals out there, but not sure about buying stuff from a company being liquidated.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

IMHO You'll be able to call Marzocchi and get warranty work or a seal kit. There's no liquidation happening right now. From a customer's perspective nothing has really changed. Maybe in the coming seasons there'll be more of an emphasis on the low and mid range products, with the high end stuff taking a back seat or being dropped as Fox reposition the brand, or maybe it'll be business as usual.

Bottom line is that there's no issue getting warranty stuff or parts (for the majority of products) now, and with the purchase of the company there's no reason for that to change. If Marzocchi just closed down then I'd be worried


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## socalrider77 (Sep 1, 2012)

anyone know the a2c length of the 350 cr 27.5"?


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

socalrider77 said:


> anyone know the a2c length of the 350 cr 27.5"?


557mm declared, 560 measured on mine.


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## eyco (Jun 6, 2010)

so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

eyco said:


> so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?


Definitely if you ask me. Nice and stiff, stock HSC seems to be right on the money for me. LSC is all I need for on the trail tuning, I always ran my old RS RCT3 fork full-open anyway. And the LSC on the 350CR actually does something and provides a good range of tuning. This has also made me rethink the way I tune my suspension. I now run 
- 2-4 clicks (from full open) of LSC for general trail riding. 
- 4-6 clicks for downhill runs/shuttles days.

^^This was a critical rethink for me to get the best out of any fork with a LSC dial. Because for me when climbing or general trail riding between 5-10km/hr (or a car park test) most compressions are low speed. This keeps the fork nice and supple for soaking up all the small bumps when travelling at low speeds.

The 350 often leaves me with a feeling that my Monach RL on the back is not able to keep up. 
The stiffness is unreal, make sure you run a front tire with grip to match the fork. After I installed the 350, I had to change my front tire from slant6 to a hans dampf as the fork meant made me push the slant6 well beyond its limits. Now the back tire is all squirrelly and can't keep up either, so I'm planning to test out an ardent on the back shortly.

Setup:
- 73-75 kg fully geared
- 71 PSI - 23% sag
- 4 clicks of rebound from fast
- 2-4 clicks (from full open) of LSC for general trail riding. 
- 4-6 clicks for downhill runs/shuttles days.

Installed on a medium 2013 (26") Giant Reign and set to 160 mm travel.

My local trails are a mix of hard pack, loose over hard, and lots or baby fist to fist sized rocks.

Also if you do your own servicing, dropping the lowers on the Marz is much easier than RS, no tapping and carrying on, just unbolt and off they come.


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

Pitr said:


> I did it, added around 10ml through the valve. I set the pressure a bit lower than before and the forks started to work very well! It's very hard to bottoms out, use all of the travel, it's plush and active.
> 
> BUT...
> 
> After the first ride in bikepark I noticed hardly creaking noise coming from the front end. It's loud and can feel it on the bar. I can do the noise stationary by my hands pushing forward and backward. On the trails is much worse, on bumps and while braking. I checked every single part at the front. I thought it was from the headsets but I checked and cleaned everything, put some fresh grease and changed the spacers. I'm sure that it's not the headsets. I found that the noise probably comes from the right (air) side of the fork. Unscrewed the top cap, take out the chamber and check it. Looks ok. Put some new grease and mount again but the noise is still there. That's not a small crackle, it's more like cracking and it's very worrying.


Some news here about my 350 NCR

Settings

I've played with the settings of the oil, air and compression and found some very nice characteristic. I put 65psi, add 5-7ml of oil into the air camber through the air valve and set 5 clicks of compression. The fork feels fantastic - it's very plush, it's supportive, not diving under braking and have never bottomed out harshly - I can feel where the stroke ends but without hard hit crushing my wrists. Now the fork feels better that Pike because it's more linear - Pike is super soft at the beginning and extremely rumps up at the end. And I want to stay with this fork and settings for next season on more but&#8230;

Cracking

As I mentioned before, there is a hardly creaking noise coming from the fork - from the right leg with the air can. It's quite loud and can feel it on the bar. I can do the noise stationary by my hands pushing the fork forward and backward. I sent the fork to the Marzocchi service center. They checked everything, changed the oil and sent back explaining that everything is 100% ok. The first rides was ok but after hitting some dh tracks, the cracking noise is back. Interesting is that if I ride on lighter tracks, there is no cracking noise even if I push the fork hard back and forward. When I hit some rockgardens or rooty parts, cracking is back. Service center can't find the problem. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the air or negative spring system. Maybe the cracking is from the crown-leg connection and I can't feel it. Do you have or heard about a problem like this?


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Pitr said:


> Some news here about my 350 NCR
> 
> Settings
> 
> ...


I have a prototype NCR from 2014 (no Espresso coating) and it also makes the creaking noise that you talk about. My fork was prepared for a pro level rider so I feel it a bit too hard, I am missing al little softer/faster initial feel for those small bumps and stones. For going fast it makes me feel very safe, but I think there is still more to do with it.


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

artishouk said:


> I have a prototype NCR from 2014 (no Espresso coating) and it also makes the creaking noise that you talk about. My fork was prepared for a pro level rider so I feel it a bit too hard, I am missing al little softer/faster initial feel for those small bumps and stones. For going fast it makes me feel very safe, but I think there is still more to do with it.


Did you find any solution with the cracking noise? How long do you use the fork?
For the settings, you can have a different shim stack. Try to lower the pressure and add some oil to the air can through the air valve.


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## craftworks (Aug 24, 2004)

eyco said:


> so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?


2014 350 CR super quiet and stiff definitely worth it.
Upgraded to Now a 350 NCR Ti spring Marzocchi
No complaints, super plush on the Ti coil fork

But geez super noisey through forks compression/rebound op

Damper side oil travel noise and maybe some coil spring noise

Is this normal 350 Ti owners?


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## craftworks (Aug 24, 2004)

2014 350 CR super quiet and stiff definitely worth it.
Upgraded to Now a 350 NCR Ti spring Marzocchi
No complaints, super plush on the Ti coil fork

But geez super noisey through forks compression/rebound op

Damper side oil travel noise and maybe some coil spring noise

Is this normal 350 Ti owners?


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

looperx said:


> I would like to convert the remote lockout of the 350 NCR to manual. Do you know if i can use the same compression knob or i have to use a different one for the manual lockout? :thumbsup:


Probably too late, but you do need a different compression knob to convert from remote to manual control. There is a good YouTube video with instructions. The problem is getting the parts. The Canadian service center has closed down. Fingers crossed that the Fox service center will eventually have parts available.


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Skooks said:


> Probably too late, but you do need a different compression knob to convert from remote to manual control. There is a good YouTube video with instructions. The problem is getting the parts. The Canadian service center has closed down. Fingers crossed that the Fox service center will eventually have parts available.


I had one without the remote installed and I could block the fork with my hand. I don´t know if they changed something (it was borrowed from the marzocchi supplier) but I remember that the engagement for the cable was there...

My 350NCR also made a lot of noise, I don´t know from where, but I do know it did not came from the headset.

I borrowed the 350NCR to another rider and I am using now a fox 36 2015 (older valving). I also had a Pike. From all of them the best damping was in the Marzocchi. Also it was in par with the 36 regarding rigidity, both better than the Pike. The pike had the best support on the preload (air chamber) of them all, I also think the damping is better than the 36, but I liked the 36 over the pike because of it´s rigidity. I think a Lyric could be a great option, but I have not tried one yet...

Hope this helps!


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

craftworks said:


> 2014 350 CR super quiet and stiff definitely worth it.
> Upgraded to Now a 350 NCR Ti spring Marzocchi
> No complaints, super plush on the Ti coil fork
> 
> ...


It's normal to have some swooshy noises from the damping with the NCRs, they have a completely different damper setup from the CR, with a proper shim stack instead of just simple ports.

You will get some coil noise if the coil doesn't have it's plastic wrap intact. Pop the top cap off and pull the spring. If it doesn't have a thin heat shrink wrap around it then I got some 1.75" clear PVC heat shrink from eBay. It's about $5 for a 3ft piece, which should cover 2 springs.


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

I am running a 350 NCR on my Knolly Warden and I am very happy with it. Excellent damping qualities and plenty stiff. I sure hope Fox continues to sell and support this great product.


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## Pitr (Sep 22, 2013)

artishouk said:


> I had one without the remote installed and I could block the fork with my hand. I don´t know if they changed something (it was borrowed from the marzocchi supplier) but I remember that the engagement for the cable was there...
> 
> My 350NCR also made a lot of noise, I don´t know from where, but I do know it did not came from the headset.
> 
> ...


What kind of noises does it make? Is it more like clicking, slurping or more like cracking?

I have the same problem - cracking noise which sounds like ... something starts to crack. It's very worrying. I send it to Marzocchi authorized service center, they checked it and told me that everything is ok. But it isn't - cracking is still there.


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## artishouk (Jan 28, 2014)

Pitr said:


> What kind of noises does it make? Is it more like clicking, slurping or more like cracking?
> 
> I have the same problem - cracking noise which sounds like ... something starts to crack. It's very worrying. I send it to Marzocchi authorized service center, they checked it and told me that everything is ok. But it isn't - cracking is still there.


It is like a cracking! I had the same feeling that something was wrong, but there wasn´t. It´s not nice at all for it to be there, and if others are not having the noise, I get even more confused about it. I am sure though that the fork worked great even with the noise and had no changes in it´s functionality


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

We have 2 350 NCR forks at home that are ridden hard. Neither of them have ever made a 'cracking' noise.


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

eyco said:


> so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?


for $340 on closeout, I took a dive. will see in the spring how it rides...


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

Where can we get stiffer springs? I have the 350 R and the spring is too soft for my 180lb weight; adding air preload just ruins the smooth action and feels harsh on hits.

Thanks,
Bryan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

bryan_d said:


> Where can we get stiffer springs? I have the 350 R and the spring is too soft for my 180lb weight; adding air preload just ruins the smooth action and feels harsh on hits.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bryan
> ...


Call Fox and see if they have stiffer springs. I called them the other day to try to get a couple parts for my 350 and he said they have some small parts in now (not the ones I needed) and are starting to get stocked up on all parts.


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

psycle-on said:


> Call Fox and see if they have stiffer springs. I called them the other day to try to get a couple parts for my 350 and he said they have some small parts in now (not the ones I needed) and are starting to get stocked up on all parts.


Thanks for the heads up man, I will give them a ring.

Bryan

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I am wondering what happened to all 053 shocks? They became available in late summer and just after a few month only a couple of sizes were available. And still no reviews or some real info on them.

ps: I am still hoping to get 7.5x2.0 someday but I doubt Fox would allow 300 bucks pricetag. So maybe I'll find used one..


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

$249 plus mounts

https://recycledmountainracing.com/...i-053-s3c2r-shock-size-options-no-mounts-sale

Unfortunately they don't ship internationally, so I'll have to wait for the Fox distribution to Australia price tag.


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## Wombat (Jan 25, 2004)

It seems they now do ship internationally: https://recycledmountainracing.com/pages/international-shipping

Tim


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

350 R Fork:

I was having issues with notchy action and harsh performance. So I pulled the lowers, and found that the seals had NO grease in them, none.










I greased them up, refilled both legs with 7.5wt, and OMG the result is so much better than before! The sticky fork actually messed with my sag setup which caused the harsh feel. Now the fork is smooth and I was able to properly use the air preload. It now feels balanced with my Monarch Debonair shock.

Bryan

PS - the hardest part was removing the rebound knob. Kinda mangled the darn thing, but it still functions.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dashmerino (Mar 8, 2016)

...


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## dashmerino (Mar 8, 2016)

Hi! I have a new Commencal Meta AM V4 with 350 NCR.
With 97kilos/214 lbs @60 PSI I get a sag of only 30mm
@50 PSI 35mm.

And advise? Looks like everbody else need higher pressure.


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## enregistree (Oct 4, 2012)

Totally agree. My 350 CR did not have any oil in air leg from factory.

Rebound knob is plastic and you have to pry it, quite stupid. In worst case if it breaks or you loose it, I think you can use 3mm hex key instead.

Lukas



bryan_d said:


> 350 R Fork:
> 
> I was having issues with notchy action and harsh performance. So I pulled the lowers, and found that the seals had NO grease in them, none.
> 
> ...


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## enregistree (Oct 4, 2012)

Hi, I have 350 CR 160mm and my preferred setup is 90 psi and ~15-20mm sag (I weight 77 Kg). But I like the forks more stiff than average maybe.



dashmerino said:


> Hi! I have a new Commencal Meta AM V4 with 350 NCR.
> With 97kilos/214 lbs @60 PSI I get a sag of only 30mm
> @50 PSI 35mm.
> 
> And advise? Looks like everbody else need higher pressure.


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

Anyone figure out the cracking noise? I just picked up a secondhand 350 NCR and have ridden it twice in sloppy conditions. It was silent at first but now it makes a ton of clicking noise. It happens when I compress the fork, and also when I hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. I checked the headset, stem, brake mount and axle and no fix. It feels like it's coming from the right side of the fork.

My feeling is that it's related to the axle, but I re-greased it and dropped some triflow in the expanding cone near the qr lever and it didn't fix it.


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

D(C) said:


> Anyone figure out the cracking noise? I just picked up a secondhand 350 NCR and have ridden it twice in sloppy conditions. It was silent at first but now it makes a ton of clicking noise. It happens when I compress the fork, and also when I hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. I checked the headset, stem, brake mount and axle and no fix. It feels like it's coming from the right side of the fork.
> 
> My feeling is that it's related to the axle, but I re-greased it and dropped some triflow in the expanding cone near the qr lever and it didn't fix it.


Never mind, quite sure it's the right crown-stanchion junction that's making the racket. I can make it creak with the bike upside down and wheel off, yanking the leg fore and aft.


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

D(C) said:


> Never mind, quite sure it's the right crown-stanchion junction that's making the racket. I can make it creak with the bike upside down and wheel off, yanking the leg fore and aft.


I just found this video of similar creaking: 




The poster says:


> it seems negative spring came off it fixing place. or at least guys at local 'official service' thought, so they put it on heat shrink tubing, which caused another problem later on so i'm doing all the service myself now.In fact heat shrink tubing was not needed, I made 4 full services since then and no clicking - just putting the spring where it should be. image from the internet: https://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/alexei_s/20141014_130134_zpsd6941ad4.jpg.﻿


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Hi,

is there a big difference in performance between black seals (350 CR, 2015) and red seals (2016)? 
I am planning to replace the seals because the current greatly reduces the sensitivity of the fork.

Does anyone have any experience in this matter?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

black seals is the ones marzocchi used like forever.

new red ones are SKF seals, usually available in green.

aaand yes, skf seals are a bit better.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Thanks for infomration. 
Are you sure that red one's are the same as SKF ?  

There is a significant difference in price between red and green.

If I make a lower drop and lubricate seals and bushings then the fork works great, sensvivity is very good but after 1-2 week performance goes very low.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

wow, damn it, you made me look a bit at 2016 models, and now i really doubt that reds are skf  In any case, go skf, that would be a good investment.



> If I make a lower drop and lubricate seals and bushings then the fork works great, sensvivity is very good but after 1-2 week performance goes very low.


i know that feeling  skf seals helped a bit, not like "wooooow no sticktion at all", but noticably better.. oddly enough coil forks for 26" with the same seals doesn't loose sensitivity after a couple of weeks.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

@bryan_d 
How does perform your 350R after a longer time from lubrication?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

graved1gger said:


> I'm using molykote 55 for o-rings for the seals, apart from just adding oil to the lowers. IHMO, overall feeling is better with SKF, but I can't tell you how long they are staying good. I put them on before going to a bikepark and because it was 3 rainy days out of 6 days there, I've decided to make a full service when I came back. And not much riding since then...


OK, please let us know your opinion after some time.

Thx in advance!


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

I too use the recommended Molykote 55 for the seals, but I also wipe the stanchions clean after each ride and then spray with Fork Juice, or Maxima Suspension Clean to keep everything slick.

I get about 3 months out of my 380 C2Rs Ti, of 3 days a week at the bike park before the fork starts to get a little stickier. Doing the same with my 350 NCRs I get some benefit from service every 6 months or so (as trail riding is way less harsh than the bike park).

With the seals, make sure that you really pack the gap in them with lots of grease to keep them running stiction free for as long as possible.


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## bryan_d (Mar 16, 2009)

Marynos said:


> Thanks for infomration.
> Are you sure that red one's are the same as SKF ?
> 
> There is a significant difference in price between red and green.
> ...


I am chiming back with my 350 R experience, and the stiction is back since the fresh lubing. I am currently looking into some custom springs but I have been lagging on it; trying to decide between dropping moola on SKF seals or a custom spring.

Bryan

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.

Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

dirtrider76 said:


> Picked up a lightly used 2015 350 NCR the other day. Got it on my MK12 and right away noticed it was kind of sticky. Pulled the springs off the seals, took a needle greaser and pushed in some Slick honey. Instantly got better, bet its the damned seals. Those same seals on my friends 36 felt sticky unless constantly lubed and eventually tore up the stanchions. Took the bike out and railed on it and it feels great. I'm 250 RTR and with 95psi it feels good, feels very coil like. Almost bottoms but not quite, good small bump, good large event and rebound tuned right in.
> 
> Damper is a bit loud but not much more than my PUSH'ed 36float was. I'm not a huge lockout fan but I gave it a shot on a long fireroad and it perfect if you tend to stand and mash up stuff like that. Tire clearance seems great around the arch as well.


If you read older posts in this thread, it seems slick honey is not a great product for this fork. From what I understand, the cartridge is semi-open bath and uses a port to exchange oil between the damper and lowers (which is likely the noise you hear on big hits). If slick honey mixes in with the lowers oil, it can clog this port.

See this post: http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5/marzocchi-better-late-than-never-908511-19.html#post11743057


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I've read most of this thread, I own a few Marz forks. I only put a small amount between the lips of the seals to lube the dust seals. I didn't pump it into the lowers, it would need to get past another set of seals yet.


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal. 

By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?


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## Kiwiplague (Jul 22, 2011)

Marynos said:


> Maybe this is the issue - air piston seal.
> 
> By the way what do you think is it possible to run 350 CR without oil seals since it has sealed cartridge ?


The cartridge isn't sealed, it sucks bath oil in through a one way valve in the base of the cartridge and has a small hole at the top of the cartridge where oil can vent from when the the damper experiences a high compression load. That is also why the bath oil has to be the same (at least on the damper side) as what's in the cartridge itself.

That's why it's called the DBC (Dynamic Bleed Cartridge).


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## psycle-on (Mar 15, 2005)

psycle-on said:


> I just did a total rebuild on my NCR this weekend (damper too since I broke the rebound knob off and had to replace the lower damper assembly) and actually feel a bit of the stiction is in the seals on the air piston. I have no idea how to smooth that out.


I would say it is probably a little of both. Also I feel the stiction when doing "parking lot" and static tests seems to disappear while riding after the oil has circulated a bit. I will also say I prefer the feel of this fork over the 34 Fit 4.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?

MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.


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## mofrank (Dec 29, 2010)

Marynos said:


> How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?
> 
> MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.


i did put 40ml each, and feels better than ever.

and a quiestion.
would a '10 rc3(160mm travel) cartide fit into a 350cr?


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## enregistree (Oct 4, 2012)

Marynos said:


> How much oil do you put into lowers in Marzo 350 CR? Would it be a problem to put 40 ml?
> 
> MZ says 25 ml to each leg. 25 ml seems to be a very smal amount of oil.


40 ml is OK. If you add more oil to air leg you increase progressivity of travel. I put 25 ml in each leg as suggested. MZ changed this in recent years, because there is no longer open bath but new DBC damper where you put oil inside the cartridge, then add this little amount (25 ml) for lubrication of sliders.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Regarding to the stiction, my technician says that the problem is with the poor quality bushings


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

dirtrider76 said:


> Mine is still fine since putting a bit of slick honey between the lips of the seals. My fork works great and I got a bunch of miles on it pretty fast.


Did you change the stock seals? How much oil did you put into lowers?


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Lowers haven't been dropped, I did not change the seals out.


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Hi, 

I just a bought a used 350 NCR Ti (not in a great shape) and I think it needs a good service. I found the video online for the NCR series service. Is there any thing else I need to be careful of on the Ti ? I've been working on marzocchis a long time ago, so I'm not too worried, but I'd rather ask.

Also, I may change the travel. Same. I found the video for the CR and NCR, but not the Ti, is it the same procedure ? What happens to the coil spring ? Is it going to be preloaded if I put a 20mm spacer inside ? That wouldn't be good !

n.b. I read the topic, but don't recall seing any of that.

Thanks


----------



## tcmnorcal (Feb 15, 2014)

Swissam, 
I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks



Swissam said:


> Anyone have experience on the 350 NCR TI? I'm thinking of getting one as they are a lot cheaper now. On the Marzocchi site they show two spring options. I weigh 155lbs without kit so around 160 in full battle rattle. I wish it came with HSC adjuster but very few companies are giving us that option today. I just want to know how easy is it to pull this fork apart and service it and any other ride impressions vs a Pike. Thanks.


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## Swissam (Apr 8, 2008)

tcmnorcal said:


> Swissam,
> I'm also looking at the 350NCR Ti , did you get any response? I'm same weight and really want to know at 160lbs (73kg) does the spring rate work, how much pre load is needed and are there other spring option . Thanks


I'm not getting one unless I see one cheap on Ebay. Trying to save money plus I want a new Gibson guitar. My pikes are good enough for now after sending then to a tuning shop here in Switzerland. Nothing special just new SKF seals and some special oil and they feel better than new.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I have a NCR350 can I just toss in whatever 7.5w or is there a certain brand I should stick with? I'm just going to drop lowers, clean and lube dust seals and reassemble. My 44micro ti I just run Sway away 7.5w oil in cause I had it here. Being these are known for getting sticking and the cartridge bleeds into the bath oil I figured I'd check.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

Marzocchi recommend Spectro 7.5w, but any 7.5 will do in a pinch.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Ha dropped my lowers, got NO oil at all from the air side and less than 10cc's from the damper side. Pulled the dust seals and the space inside was full of clear lube that looked a lot like slick honey. NO way I put even close to that much in there.

I put 50cc's of bath oil in each leg, the oil in the air chamber and lubed up the seals and all real good. Feels great! 


I'd like to service the damper next time I drop the lowers. Any special bleed procedure for the DBC? Internet isn't exactly overflowing with info on these forks.


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## enregistree (Oct 4, 2012)

Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video 




Had the same experience with no oil at all in the air leg 

I always lube the seals internally too BUT in my experience it is lubing the sliders (with silicon spray) after every few rides that keeps fork plush.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

enregistree said:


> Re servicing DBC damper: same as with LR system in this video
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks! I found that video when I was searching but didn't know it was the same.


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## da peach (Oct 30, 2006)

eyco said:


> so... 2015 350 cr, is it worth it?


I just nabbed one and like it so far.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Looks like Fox are busy with Marzocchi, rebranded Transfer post and plenty more happening behind the scenes according to Singletrack mag at eurobike.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I went on the marzocchi page the other day and it was updated and has 2017 stuff on it.


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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

What's the widest tyre that can safely be squeezed into a 350? Rim inner width of ~35mm.

Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?

Thanks


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

phreeky said:


> Also the ones that had premature stanchion wear, was that only on the 2014 models with the super crazy stanchion colour, or has this also been a problem on 2015 models?
> 
> Thanks


The coating on my 2015 NCR started to wear pretty early on. I was told that it's a common issue and just cosmetic.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

My 2015 has a noticeable amount to of wear on the expresso coating. 

Looks like my NCR350 is coming apart soon. Left side leg seal is pushing oil and top of damper adjuster is leaking now. Marzocchi has the damper listed as 1 unit but I'm going to try and pull it apart and replace the seal I think.


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## matzen (Aug 29, 2012)

Has anybody experience with serviceing the 053 shock?
Mine has air in it. And the instructions on the marzocchi websites require some special tools and a vacuum pump.


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## owenfranssen (Apr 14, 2016)

Hi guys,

Quick opinion request please:
I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...


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## seankdebree (Mar 31, 2015)

Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".


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## seankdebree (Mar 31, 2015)

Forgot to mention the 2.8 High Roller II is on a Easton ARC 30 Rim 35 mm outer width


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

owenfranssen said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Quick opinion request please:
> I recently got a Marzocchi 350R to go no my custom build Bronson C. However I have no experience with coil shocks. I havent yet had a proper ride on this fork, but i do have the opportunity to pick up a 350CR for very little money - is this a worthwhile upgrade? I know its air sprung, and it weighs 200 grams less...


It all depends on which flavour of kool-aide your drinking.... tuning ability of air spring or linear rate coil spring..... use full travel only when need... or every time you ride.

Personally I'd go for the CR if the cost is palletable. I prefer to have the abilty to tune the spring rate to my liking for my weight and way I ride and I like a progressive spring curve. The twang of my fork bottoming out is not music to my ears. Also the low speed compression adjustment actually makes noticable difference in the fork behaviour.

However, out of the box the CR does come with a very progressive curve due to the volume of oil in the air chamber. I tipped mine upside down and let as much oil out as possible without removing the valve core to be able to get full travel. I run 71 psi (I'm around 165lbs fully loaded) only bottomed out when I got something wrong and could not get fully travel in a carpark test.

I recently serviced my fork and found with no oil in the chamber and pumped to 71psi and did a carpark test and easily blew right through the travel. I ended up with 10mm of oil in the air chamber to get the progression curve i wanted.

Bottom line if you not in the coil camp and like to fettle then definitely go the CR.

Full setup :- 71psi, 4-5 clicks rebound (from fastest) 2-4 clicks low speed compression.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Anyone try the Enduro seals instead of the SKF ones that are in the 350NCR? My fork feels great till the seals get dry then it gets sticky. Pry the dust seals out and put a thin coat of oil on the lower seals and stickiness is gone.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

^^ This makes me feel good about not springing for the NCR to get the expresó coat. 
Haven't tried them, but I did email the enduro fork seals guy when I got my 350CR to ask if they would fit (as I like them on my old RS rev). He wasn't sure, but kind of insinuated that he'd refund the cost of the seals if I ordered them and let him know if they worked or not. Didn't have the cash for 35mm seal press at the time so never got around to it. I've just got into the habit of using some Finish Line stantion lube as part of my pre-ride checks to remove the stiction.. (tyres, oil chain, wipe and lube stantions, invert fork as I walk bike out the garage, ride).... I would be keen to know how they go if you decide to go with the enduro fork seals.


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

The SKF seals are considerably less sticky than the standard seals. I had the 888, and have the 350NCR and 380 C2R2 Ti and it's a noticeable difference in how long it takes for things to get sticky.

I'd recommend packing the seals with Molykote, keeping everything clean, and applying a dry silicon lube like Fork Juice, or Finish Line Teflon lube after each ride. For me, this keeps everything super plush at the seals for longer than the oil service intervals.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I already spray the fork with finish line. I don't have to do any of this with my old pre Kashima float36. 

To be clear the SKF seals are sticky. I'm hoping maybe the Enduro ones aren't not.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Hi,

I bought also a SKF seals for my 350 CR and frankly speaking nothing changed. 
After some days after service (molykote on seals) fork is sticky.

Money spent in the mud... 

What do you think to remove the oil seals since there is a sealed cardridge inside? In Fox and SR forks you can also add a certain volume of oil into lower legs and they are working fine only with dust seals.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Nice out of the box thinking. It might be possible, risky though, I wouldn't do it. Not sure how much the seals help protect from rubbing on the bushing. Also might mean you have to change oil more often though as more dirt will reach the oil. 
Yea it's a sealed cartridge, but as I understand it, the DBC needs the oil bath in the bottom of the fork leg to work properly and cycle the oil. So I'd expect as long as you aren't losing oil it would work. 

I'm not 100% certain on the air side, but the air tube is sealed so the oil seals are only keeping the oil for lubing the bushes in the lower. Once again though how much do the seals work to keep from rubbing against the bushings.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

You may be right. 

I was also thinking to change the oil in dbc cartridge from 7.5 W (golden spectro, 26 [email protected]°C) to 5W Motorex (22,60 [email protected]). 
Maybe LSC will be weaker and it will have good impact on initial smoothness.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Yea, I changed to 5w Motorex from 15w rock oil, cause I can't get spectro any where. These guys reckon [http://www.shockcraft.co.nz/news/bike-of-month-august-2016/] the 5w motorex is the same as Specto.

Initially I did find what you suggested the LSC seemed to soften up a bit (2 clicks worth) But that could because, I did a full clean and grease with molykote 55 of all seals at the same time (didn't replace any seals) and I initially didn't put as much oil back into the air spring. Added more oil to add more progression since and haven't need the extra 2 clicks of LSC.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

Golden Spectro [email protected]

To obtain the same viscosity as Marzocchi 7,5W Golden Spectro, Motorex oils should be mixed in the following ratio: 70% of 5W and 30% of 7.5-W.
You say that you didn't notice difference?


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## henkster (Jun 6, 2014)

It's also worth checking that everything is aligned fine with your bushings, and that they're clean and lubed. I've seen way more problems with stickiness from bushing problems than seal issues. If you've got a twist/bend in there somewhere then you'll get that sticky feeling - no matter how happy your seals are.


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## Marynos (Jun 6, 2016)

What do you propose for lubrication of bushings? Molykote 55 or non silicone grease?


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

I read somewhere, Marz recommend molykote 55 because it doesn't react with the Golden Spectro and gunk up the internals. Molykote 55 and rock oil definitely do turn into a nasty gunk. Haven't reopened my fork yet since changing to motorex to see how they react. 

Its always hard to say if the it's the oil or just a refreshed suspension all together. But yes I do notice a lighter feeling LSC with motorex 5W during. But this also gave the LSC a bit more tuning range for me. I can run a little less LSC (usually 3-4 clicks) without it getting all squirmy mid corner when my weight shifts. Now I can range from 2-6 clicks from full open. 2 for when I'm feeling like I just was it super plush for general tail duty and 6 if I really want charge. I.e a timed event. 

But I find the thing that makes the most difference to the initial seal stiction is the finisline stanchion Fluoro oil.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

So i jsut discovered marks on my MZ 2015 ncr air, on both legs, long for about 10 cm, single straight line going deep under seals.. Have anyone been able to resolve what causes the marks and how to prevent them from appearing?


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## Mr_X40 (Oct 5, 2008)

I had the stanchions score twice. I resolved the issue by getting a manitou mattoc. No scratched stanchions since.


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## Horacek (Apr 20, 2009)

The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Horacek said:


> The cure is new lowers. Nothing else apparently - I had mine replaced.


My warranty is out, do you know if i can buy new lowers somewhere?


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## Horacek (Apr 20, 2009)

Where are you based? In the UK I posted nine to Windwave. The cost was £70


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Poland.. did they replace your lowers for 70£? It wasnt warranty replacement right?
And lastly, did this help with the marks on lowers or did they appear again?


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

What do the marks look like? I have some lines on my NCR air stanchions but they are not really scratches or scoring. More like discolouration of the expresso coating. The marks line up nicely with the slots in the internal bushings on the lowers. The fork still works fine.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Thats how it looks.


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## hans2vt (Jun 12, 2010)

seankdebree said:


> Hey I'm running a 650B 2.8" High Roller II with my 2014 350 CR with no clearance issues. May even be able to fit the 3.0".


do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

hans2vt said:


> do you have the regular 350 fork or the Boost one? I'm liking the idea of 2.8 tires!!!


I'd love each to see a picture of this. I can't even run a fender with a 2.35 Magic mary in mine or a SE4 due to massive clearance issues.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

I think this thread should be moved to "shocks and suspension".

I recently put a 350 NCR on my Troy and have been completely and totally impressed with the performance of it.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

I put a 350 NCR on my Patrol that I recently finished and am completely thrilled with it. I did a complete tear down when I got it to get familiar with it. Pretty easy to work on. Refreshed the oil, added some extra, and cleaned and greased the air spring. With any luck I'll get years of issue free service. Time will tell.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried **** will break if i put different oil in lowers


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff. I change the oil in the lowers and grease the seals regularly. I have been using Fox 10-W oil or 7.5W motorcycle fork oil.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Did you change the damper oil everytime also or just the lowers?


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Skooks said:


> I have had an NCR Air on my bike for around 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. Very supportive but still super plush and stiff.


Coming off a Pike, the 350 NCR Air is beyond amazing. I'm just completely blown away with the performance. It's the best fork that I've ever ridden by a good margin.


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Drybear said:


> The damper oil circulates so if you change the oil in the lower legs the damper oil will partly be changed as well. I do the lowers twice a year and after 2.5 year I still dont see any need for any damper service. I use thicker oil 80/90w in the air side lower leg.


What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

shiremux said:


> What if i mix the oils? Dunno whats inside the damper at the moment but all i got is some motorex 5w oil atm


I think the original oil is 7.5w but I use 5w on the damper side. Its not a problem to mix them, you might have to add a click on the compression/rebound with a thinner oil but thats all.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

shiremux said:


> Did you change the oil in the damper aswell?
> If so, what oil did you use? Or if you didnt, what oil did u put in the lowers?
> My NCR seems to be dry atm but i have no oil for the damper side as from what i understand theres a circulation between damper and lower legs oil from what i understood, im worried **** will break if i put different oil in lowers


I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.


----------



## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

MikeBurnsie said:


> I did not do any service to the damper. I just removed it and when I assembled I put around 40ml of Spectro 7.5 in the lower leg. 7.5wt is spec'd for the lower leg. Basicly the oil in the lower is used by the damper assembly during use. I don't know if it's a constant refresh of the oil or at a certain compression level. I'm thinking the latter.


You can hear a low sound on fast rebound strokes and I guess that is when it sucks the oil up and circulates it in the damper.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

I use motorex 5W fork oil in my CR, both damper and air side. I can't be bothered dealing with two different oil weights. The 350 is so easy to service I'm sort of the opinion: why complicate things? 

That being said, I have mixed left over 5wt & 15wt rock oil to make a 7.5wt to put in the lowers when the stock Golden Spectro was in the damper. Everything worked fine, but the rock oil and molykote 55 do turn into a nasty gunk after a while. 

Marz used to spec 7.5W Golden Spectro with molykote 55 o-ring grease. Supposedly this combination won't gunk up the DBC, but I don't know what they spec since Fox took over. 
It's near on imposible to get Golden Spectro in my corner of the world, so I prefer to use a fork oil that has similar cSt rather than weight.


----------



## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Allright, this got me pushed, ill strip my 350 today


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## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?


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## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

shiremux said:


> Ok, done. So far its working good. One thing that makes me worry, theres a foam on the air shaft at the top, my seems to be torn apart, does anyone know how it affects the performance and where can i get new one?


Its there to keep some oil for lubricating the air piston. Put a few ml of oil inside the airspring cylinder and you will be fine.


----------



## shiremux (Jun 4, 2015)

Yeah i did so, i assume it can work just fine without it as long as it has the oil inside?
Anyway, what custom mods are there available for MZ 350 ncr?


----------



## racebum (Mar 13, 2013)

smilinsteve said:


> I'm always rooting for Marzocchi. It would be cool to see them get more market share.


agree. they had the best performing forks on the market around 2000. i would like to see a return simply because competition is wonderful when it comes to keeping prices in check.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Does anyone know the specs of the 350 negative coil? I've been nerding out on my fork lately and thinkin it would be even better with a longer negative coil. Especially since it's currently travel dropped to 150 anyway.


----------



## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

65mm as per the manual


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## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

No issues stanchions with my 2016 NCR air .. seems like marzocchi solved the issues


----------



## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

maclgallant said:


> 65mm as per the manual


Spring rate? 
Rod diameter? 
Coil diameter? 
Coil spacing?


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Well, I finally ordered a 2016 320 LCR for 27.5. I read this thread twice and I think I have a pretty good idea of what to do when it arrives.
Since most posts are about the 350 series, I assume there might be some differences but hopefully not many.
So, correct me If I'm wrong:
1. New fork and just installed. If sticky and dry, ride it for a while, make sure it moves around so whatever factory grease and oil circulates and wakes the fork up. Reason for that would be because of how the DBC works.

2. If still sticky, drop lowers, check oil levels, add as necessary (Anyone knows what oil the 2016 320 series use, so I can get the same one?), grease seals thoroughly with molykote 55. Anything else I should grease or add oil?

3. Ride it again, stickiness should be solved. Set up fork for my liking and adjust oil level on air chamber if more progressivity is needed.

Anything else? 
I have never taken a fork apart but i'm confident I can do a damn lower leg service as long as I follow instructions. If its not needed and the fork feels great out of the box, great.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Same question, exactle what names of oils tou use in left leg and right?
At least few brands and their exact oils..


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

In my 350 NCR I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5 which I found at Niagara Cycles


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

MikeBurnsie said:


> I'm using Golden Spectro 7.5


exactly where to?


----------



## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> exactly where to?


In the lower leg on the damper side, for your DBC, I put around 25ml in the air chamber to aid in progression, and 25 ml in the lower leg on the air side for splashing the bushings.


----------



## W.J.Christy (Jun 13, 2017)

I have been having some stiction problems with my new (new old stock) Marzocchi 44 Micro STA fork. I contacted fox (who has awesome customer service) and recieved the following reply,

_Please see my answers in red below. The timing of your email is excellent, I just met with reps from Marzocchi (Itally) two days ago and your questions are pertinent.

Ed

Hi,

I am writing in hopes that you may be able to answer my 3 questions regarding the 2015 Marzocchi 44 Micro Switch TA fork. I have been searching for the answers for several days and have been hard pressed to find anything / get any responses. If you can't answer and I need to contact other folks I understand and appreciate your time

Back ground on the fork, I bought it new about a month ago off of ebay as a new old stock item. It has no warranty that I am aware of and was slightly sticky brand new. Per several sites(one being the Marzocchi blogspot.se) that I have found I removed the lowers, drained all the factory oil out, packed slick honey in the area between the dust wipers and seals, greased the stachions, bushings and seals with slick honey, then refilled each leg with 20ml of Finish line 7.5wt oil. It was fantastic for about 2 rides.

1. After sitting for about a week the fork now feels as though it has a lot of stiction throughout the travel range. It is most noticeable in the very beginning as it take considerably more pressure to get the fork to compress at the start on the travel than to keep the fork moving while "Bouncing" up and down. It is also noticeable if the fork is compressed part way held, then pressure added to compress the fork further. Is this normal?

A. We have just found out from the Marzo engineers that the fox 20wt bath oil is now recommended over the original 7.5 wt oil as long as the fork's damper is not an open bath damper. This new oil selection will definitely help the plushness of the fork.

2. Is this just the break in period or do I need to drop the lowers again and replace the oil with golden spectro or similar and relube the system with slick honey?

A. Refer to my answer to #1, you should not need to add the slick honey, it will just wash away after the fork cycles up and down a few times.

3. If I need to replace the oil should I use a lower weight?

A. Back to answer # 1_

Now do be careful here as the 44 is a sealed cartridge system, and the use of the heavier oil only comes into play for those forks that have sealed cartridges. So if you have a sticky fork and its a sealed cartridge give this a try. I can verify that it works.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
Marzocchi 350 NCR
Fork is making wistles when coming up.
When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
Any suggestions, please?


----------



## Drybear (Jul 27, 2013)

ka81ua said:


> 2015 - 350 NCR - 160 2015 | Forks - Marzocchi MTB Suspension
> Marzocchi 350 NCR
> Fork is making wistles when coming up.
> When Rebound is rotated fully to "-" almost no wistlee, but if rotate it to "+" it became more and more louder.
> Any suggestions, please?


Its normal on these forks, I guess the sound is when the damper circulates oil from the lower leg. Its music in the rock gardens


----------



## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

After some experimenting here are my tips for significantly decreasing the initial stiction in 350 CR forks...... 

1. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air side lower leg.

2. Use a minimum 15wt oil in the air chamber if you're tuning spring rate . If you're like me and choose not to, still add only 1-2ml 15wt oil just to lube the air position and seals.

3. Chamfer the top and bottom corners of the Air piston head with a Utility knife (remember to remove the seals first so you don't cut them). The 350 air piston head has a very square corner on it. The chamfering will help reduce fiction between the piston head and the air tube. It will also help the oil to get to seal. 


4. Roughen the whole piston head with some 240 grit sand paper.... "if a surface is too smooth there is nowhere for the oil to stick to to the surface"..


5. Pack the air piston head seal grooves with grease before reinstalling the seals. RWC super slick grease seems to work much better than molykote 55 for greasing the piston head and seals.


----------



## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Well, eventually the only thing that helped my 350cr was buying almost new 350r for 150$.
Things I've noticed right away: 
1. Old lowers with used seals and bushings are sliding on new uppers(with simple anodizing) like a charm, no sticktion at all. But probably going to stick to new lowers cause there are some visible damage on the old bushings
2. New lowers on old uppers with fading gold race coating could even hardly move... 
3. Rebound piston on almost new 350R sometimes gets stuck when pushed in (fastest rebound, properly bled). I've never seen this on my CR and it seems odd considering R and CR share the same rebound piston and damper tube.

So basically I've put my CR damper into the new R coil fork. 
Greased bushings with a cocktail of Mobil XHP222 grease and 10w-40 motor oil. 
Greased the oil seals with Molykote 55. 
Put foam rings soaked in oil between the dust and oil seals like it was in older Marz forks. 
Put motor oil into coil leg and damper oil into damper leg.

Yes, there is initial sticktion, but considering that old lowers work great on new uppers it will probably go away after some time.

Now I need to decide between air or coil spring, but for now I like that coil feel.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Hello.
Few questions about my new Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016 https://www.marzocchi.com/System/29509/MY2016 - 350 NCR_RF1-00.pdf
So, fork disassembled. I'v got Molykote 55 grease, Motorex FETT 2000 grease, Castrol Moly Grease with Molibdenum, Motul Fork Oil Light Medium SAE 7.5W.

1) What grease to use when lubing the rod (#50 datasheet, #3 my photo)?




 - here he uses some dense grease (and a lot of it). When I disassembled my fork there was more fluid grease.




 - here he didn't even use any grease...

If somebody will advise to grease with Molykote 55 - is it so? I mean, that grease is very expensive, I thought it should be used in some other places where we need a little bit of grease...

2) I didn't change oils seals and dust seals in lower legs. Should I grease them (inner diammeter of each seal)? With what? Molykote 55?

3) Where and how much to pour the oil?




 - he pourred some quantity to each lower leg (I don't understand how it didn't came out?..); and some quantity of oil to stanchion where after that he will put in air chamber 







 - he pourrer 20cc into air chamber and 15cc into stanchion with DBC.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Ka81ua

I haven't used the lubes you have other than molykote 55. Molykote 55 seems to be asbsorbed into the oil quite quickly. But:

1. Lube the seals and piston head with a denser grease then Molykote 55. I've got much better results with RWC Superslick rather then Molykote 55. 
Any grease on the spring and rod under the piston head if you feel like it. But it essentially does nothing but potentially keep the noise level down and the rust away. There is no seal between the rod and the base plate (where the cir-clip is) anyway, so any lube on the rod is irrelevant. 

2. I still have original 2016 CR seals installed with probably 150hrs or more on them, which probably sacrilegious to some, but they don't leak so I don't worry about changing them. I don't use the foam ring, never have. I do have Molykote 55 packed into all the inside groves of the seals and the gap between the oil seal and dust wipers. 
But to be honest, I suspect that greasing the seals does nothing but help you reassemble the forks, it all comes down to the bath oil. 
3. I only kind of follow the videos for lubes (the reason the oil doesn't come out is the bottom bolts have been reinstalled sealing the lowers before he puts the oil in). Usually I reinstall the lowers onto the stanchions, invert and put 25ml 15-20 wt oil in the bolt hole on the air side and 30ml 5-7.5wt in the DBC side. 

1-2ml (because I don't need more progression on spring curve) 15-20wt oil in the air tube through the valve core just to lube the air piston seals. Supergliss or RWC air position oil are supposed to be the best for this. 

Hope this helped. I read somewhere the reason Marz originally said molykote 55 grease, is cause it didn't gunk up the DBC when it mixed with golden Spectro oil like other greases did.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Marzocchi 350 NCR
fork scheme

Question about #84 (5321504/P FIXING NUT SLV STA/ATA TOP SEAL) and #41(8032290/P CARTRIDGE DBC NCR REBOUND UNIT 160)









So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?


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## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

thats just the oil passing through the rebound damper (100% normal)


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

what is normal???
I CANNOT fit tight that nut.


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

ka81ua said:


> So, trying to assemble it. When nut is almost fixed on rod - rod is starting to round and round and .. So I cannot finish that job. What to do?


Engage the lockout, push down on the fork lowers, and that should give you enough friction to stop the rod from spinning so you can tighten the nut.


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## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

max tire width


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## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

i was referring to the whistle sound


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

You meant whistle I was talking about?
What tyre width to deal here?..


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

DBC
When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo. 
Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?


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## maclgallant (Feb 11, 2006)

yes


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Uhmm.. Isnt it supposed to come out through the little hole on dbc tube??..


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> DBC
> When I push the rod (upward) there some oil with air coming out from the place I noticed on photo.
> Is it supposed to be so (also when fork assembled)?


You need to turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm. When you removed the compression nut it backs out. Just set the depth to 6mm like I said and reassemble.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?

Thank you.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> I use remote lever to lock out fork. So, when I will assemble the fork should I turn the socket head in to a depth of 6mm before installing compression nut?
> 
> Thank you.


Yes, doesn't matter what remote you use.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Thank you very much.

P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> Thank you very much.
> 
> P.S. what if not downing it 6 mm depth? What will happen?


Your're experiencing it right now.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

uhmm.. didn't get it (maybe my bad english)..

If I wouln't turne it down 6 mm - anyway it will be turned by compression nut, will it?!..


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

It will, but it won't be at the depth it needs to be. 6mm is where it needs to start to achieve the proper depth. That interface is your soft/firm compression setting.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

By the way, I pushed few times the rod of DBC and some small amout of oil got out from that place I noticed with red arrows.
May I turn socket head almost out, so there will be some free space and I will be able to put in a little bit of oil (fork oil 7.5W)? Should I?


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

You can put it in the lower fork as it will get pulled into the DBC from the bottom of the DBC.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Thank you very much for all advices! )


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Sorry to revive this old thread, but has anyone had any luck using a different grease than Molykote o-ring grease for the seals on 2016ish forks? And, also, is Fox 7.5 oil okay to use on these forks? 
I got a 320 LCR and before installing I want to check oil levels and since I'm way too nervous for that I took it to the supposedly Fox certified LBS we have here. They said they could service it but they don't have the same grease and they use Fox oil.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

I have a 350 ncr and used Slick Honey. When I got it last year I opened it up and changed the oil and grease. On the damper side just oil in the lower to satisfy the DBC cartridge and slick honey between the oil and dust seal. I did the same on the air chamber side seals. I used grease on the spring and spring seal head with a little oil in the lower leg to splash the bushings. I refreshed everything about a month ago. I had no issues with grease migrating from the seals to the DBC oil bath. On the spring side a little oil splashed the lower spring assemble and mixed with the grease with no ill effects whatsoever. I just sourced two quarts of Golden Spectro 7.5 on Amazon, that's the recommended cartridge oil. I don't know anything about Fox's offering in that weight. I use there 10wt red in my Float fork.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Help someone please. I installed remote ( 



 ) but it FULLY locks fork only when it pusshed little bit more than just ''to click''. I tried adjusting barrel but somehow it doesn't help. So, only when I push remote more the fork is bacaming rigid. Maybe I should play with the depth of low speed compression rod? Maybe more than 6 mm or less? I mean


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

cobym2 said:


> Mine came with the remote, but no manual lever. Not that I use the lockout often, but if I did, Id probably like the lever (non-remote) more.


Can somebody please tell the part number of Manual lock out lever for Marzocchi 350 ncr like in the video or link where to buy it?..


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Maybe it's 8501766/P (replaces 5497001/P)
KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
or
5497001/P (replaced by 8501766/P) 
KNOB KIT UPGRADE RC TO MANUAL LCR/NCR
?


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

Hello,
I am reviving this thread with a couple of questions regarding a 2017 350NCR
Its new but has sticktion like I've never seen and when rebounding(doesn't really mater how fast) it has a pretty loud squeal/whistle.
Its pretty hard to me to get to FOX/Marzocchi and local FOX dealers don't do warranty jobs for Marzo.
Do you think a lower leg service would solve the sticktion and the whistle? Could both be related to lack of lubing? Thanks


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Whistle - not a bug but a feature  You can play with rebound and oil viscosity but it will not change a lot, so just live with it.

About stiction, disassemble lowers and legs, clean seals, use some grease, I use Molykote 55. Anyway I'm sure stiction is more because of misaligned legs.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

They stick, its what they do. Lower leg services and lubing seals helps but you have to stay up on them. I replaced mine with a Fox 36 RC2 with a MRP ramp control setup and never looked back. Its actually mocked up on my Dartmoor now but I have a old 36 I might run instead so I dont have to deal with it.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Once again, there IS an option to get rid of ctiction IF you have one! It's some work with legs!
But, I'm sure there in your countries workshops just will not do that kind of work.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

Ok guys, so I did pop out the fork and its dryer than the Sahara. Not even a droplet of oil got out. I think also that it whistles because how dry it is!
I am glad I didn't installed it to try ro gave a brake in period before opening it.
Mind you this is a fork from the FOX era as the the lower leg logos now say "A FOX company".
Engineered in Italy and build in Taiwan ... this is going to be a rocky ride )
I'll be posting back with results ...and bumpy rides


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

@ka81ua i have done some testing and my guess is that the sticktion is from the air piston.
I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned. 
Its just the air piston being sticky!
This is somehow confirmed in this post: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/marzocchi-fork-damper-rebound-help/

I am really curios how I could find the quad ring @robred is speaking about!


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Is still anybody here?

Maybe somebody have a photo of CR rebound needle? There are a lot of rebound piston photos on the web, but not a single one of the needle. It can be removed by pulling out the pin in the "window" on the piston and then pushed out with something long from underneath, where rebound knob goes.



adyamg said:


> I am saying this as I have disconnected the lower bolt for the air leg and cycled the fork like this and the sticktion its gone.
> So in my opinion its nothing to do with the dust/oil seals nor the stanchions being misaligned.
> Its just the air piston being sticky!


When you unscrewed the lower bolt you released the tension from the piston so the piston was moving exactly up and down without lateral forces, as it is supposed to move. Also noticed this on my 350. And then I've got why it happens, it seems the holes on the lowers are not exactly inline with topcaps. Which means when the fork is assembled and the bolts tightened some lateral force is being applied to the piston, which results in a sticky feel. Also this somewhat confirms why cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?


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## Skooks (Dec 24, 2008)

My 2015 NCR was pretty noisy when the rebound damping was turned up a bit. It was also a bit sticky until I serviced the lowers and put a bunch of slick-olium in the bushings and dust wipers. After doing that the fork performed very nicely.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> So what are the ideas about stiction in air leg?


Look at the pic. Perfectly fine RC3 damper and the piston for coil spring in 350 chassis. See how both the damper and the piston aren't centered. The same piston and damper sit perfectly centered and straight in 55 chassis. It is even a bit hard to screw rc3 topcap into the fork when it is fully compressed, but when the fork is fully extended everything seems fine. Which means that while the fork is compressing, more and more lateral forces are being applied to the damper and spring piston, which means sticktion.

The post above where a guy said that fork seemed to be fine when he loosened the lower bolt, somewhat confirms that this issue is not only with my fork.

And I probably wouldn't have noticed it if I haven't bought cheap 55rc3 ti with a broken spring.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> cutting the piston head helps with a sticktion.





> I've already swapped out the main seal on the air spring from the standard v type seal to a quad ring and the difference is massive,












Are we talking about cutting some parts of head that is somewhere where I marked?
Same question about swapping seals to quad-type - are they somewhere there where I marked?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

From the thread on singletracks. Look how he cut the upper part of the piston:









Why it helped?
I'm not saying it is true for every 350, but it is in my case


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Yup, got it.
So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
I seecit's #50 - 8032287/P PISTON ROD AER ST 35/27.6/2/160/350 but it's nowhere in stores.. (


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

And, is it realy useful to swap seal rings from O to quad ?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Yup, got it.
> So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..


I never cut mine =) I just changed foam ring for an o-ring. 
Then I've bought cheap coil 350R with natural anodizing because that golden coating was fading away. Tried air/coil and different lowers/uppers combination and eventually sold for cheap older chassis with air spring and R damper. After some time I found super cheap 55 RC3 Ti with a broken ti spring and missing rebound knob, which should go on a hardtail once I'll find a hub for 20mm axle.
So now I have 350 RC3 coil and 55cr with 130mm travel.

Also! I wanted to try 55 nickel coated uppers with 350 lowers, but 160 55 stanchions are too short for 160 350 lowers.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?

Thank you.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Uhmmm.. I'm lost a little bit, what type of ring should there be to help with stiction - quad or o-ring?
> 
> Thank you.


In my case o-ring instead of foam ring was to stop the fork from 'sucking up' oil into air chamber. Nothing to do with a sticktion.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

I am happy to report that after a couple of months my 350NCR 2017(black anodizing) is running great. I actually prefer it to the Pike I use to have

The fork is very linear so I will need to add some oil to add some progression to it.
But after servicing it and adding FOX 20W Gold the fork its plush,

The damper whistles ,,, but hey the Lyric RC2 is noisy to


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

https://shop.marzocchi.com/collections/bomber-58/products/bomber-58-27-5in-black



> 20x110 DH (non-Boost) axle


What a heck?

I always thought:
100 usual (not boost)
110 - boost

same for rear
135/142 usual
148 boost


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

What tires can I fit to Mazrocchi 350 NCR 2016? For example 2.6 will work?


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

I havent tried 2.6 tires but I have a pair of DHF's waiting for when high alpine trails will be opend.
I have no doubt they will fit.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

you mean 2.5 DHF?
Anyway, even 2.5 DHF and 2.5 Magic Mary can be different in real width. And especially 2.6 MM..


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

I have 2.6 DHF and actualy have a 2.6 Magic mary also but I have decided I will go DHF even if the Magic Mary seems better made at the same weight.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Thank you.

By the way, is email [email protected] from https://www.marzocchi.com/contact.aspx?idC=62365 closed for everyone or it's just me? I send letter them but in response I get some technical report that message cannot be delievered, closed group, bla bla...


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

Pretty much yes ... I think is related to FOX also, same situation!


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

https://marzocchi-parts.com/products/marzocchi-549274-knob-kit-blk-upper-lock-lcr-ncr-man

https://bicyclesuspension.de/produc...to-manual-lcr-ncr?_pos=1&_sid=1da9e3065&_ss=r

That is a KIT to make a manual lockout.
5497001


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

Its a puzzle to me why would they fit this fork with a remote lockout in the first place ...


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

The KIT looks more ... "wow". I gues..
))


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## aerius (Nov 20, 2010)

ka81ua said:


> https://shop.marzocchi.com/collections/bomber-58/products/bomber-58-27-5in-black
> 
> What a heck?
> 
> ...


There are now two standards for 20x110mm front hubs & forks; the old 20x110mm that we all know and love and the new 20x110mm boost. The new version has wider hub flange spacing and also puts the disc brake rotor mount closer to the end of the axle, which means the disc brake caliper mount on the fork also needs to be moved outwards so that everything lines up properly.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

ka81ua said:


> What tires can I fit to Mazrocchi 350 NCR 2016? For example 2.6 will work?


You asked what tire fits
This is a picture with a 2.6 DHF on 30 ID rim ... plenty of clearance!
Mine is a 2017 model if that counts.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Good.
Thanx.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I have a 2.8 Rekon on a 30mm rim in mine with no issues.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

in yours what?


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

in his 350


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Marzocchi 350 CR and NCR (2016)
what exactly is the difference, please?


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Marzocchi 350 CR and NCR (2016)
> what exactly is the difference, please?


Entirely different damper. And I mean not jut the knobs and dials but the damper itself is different


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

ka81ua said:


> Yup, got it.
> So, just one last concern, can there be a problem because of cuttung that part of piston head? Cause, you know, it's impossible to buy that head as a new part for replacement if something goes wrong..
> I seecit's #50 - 8032287/P PISTON ROD AER ST 35/27.6/2/160/350 but it's nowhere in stores.. (


I posted about this a while back (or at least meant to). But I didn't cut down/resize the of the head like this.

I just chamfered the top and bottom corners of the head with a Stanley knife. If I remember, I'll get a photo next time have it open. The bulk of the piston head still remains so no worries about seals etc holding in place.

My theory behind this:
- Your fork is never straight up down (HA don't come in 90 deg) so as shown in the pics above one side of the air piston is always pushed against the chamber wall regardless of build quality and alignment. 
- Assuming you've lubed the piston/chamber. When the fork is compressed the very sharp/square corner of the stock piston pushes against the chamber wall creating a heap of friction and scrapes the lube/oil away preventing it from reaching the seal. 
- By chamfering the corner (or resizing) it allows the lube to get down to the seal and the piston seal to rest against the chamber wall rather than the top/bottom corner of the seal head.
- This allows the piston to move without scraping lube away again each time.

I also add 2-3 20wt rockoil in the air chamber to lube the piston seal, 30-40ml 20wt rockoil in the air side lower, 5wt Motorex in damper and damper side lower, remove the foam ring between dust and lube seals and just pack the gap with molekote55 grease and apply some finish line stanchion lube every couple of weeks.

I still have the stock 2015 seal kit installed and honestly, off the top I would put my 350 CR on par with any properly setup fork on the market (Pike, 34, Diamond all ridden recent years). I've almost got my brand new DVO Sapphire 34 to feel as good as my 350.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Bluman8 said:


> remove the foam ring between dust and lube seals


why?.


----------



## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Enduro Fork Seals guys answer from an old bike rumor article : https://bikerumor.com/2013/12/04/te...nd-lubrication-with-sram-and-enduro-bearings/

5th question about foam rings.

It's debatable whether the foam ring does anything but collect dirt, dry out and potentially cause more stiction since it sits in a location between to seals where no fluid is supposed to get to anyway.


----------



## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

But this fork comes without foam rings from what I've seen .. so why you say remove them if they don't exist? Did you added foam rings to it?

In my case, even thow the air chamber has that thin assembly grease inside .... I've added about 12-13ml of oil inside to make it more progressive. After that I've noticed the fork got more sensitive/plush.


----------



## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Faulty memory. It’s been a long time since I first dropped the lowers on my fork. I just assumed that they were there and I ditched them in the first service.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

adyamg said:


> But this fork comes without foam rings from what I've seen .


Yup, in 350 NCR 2016 definitely NO foam rings from fatory. And no pace to fit hthem there.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

350 cr 2014 - no foam rings
350 r 2016 - no foam rings
55 rc3 2010 - foam rings

BUT with the original black marzocchi seals there is a lot of space between oil and dust seals to fit a foam ring, while with a SKF seals there is less space between oil and dust seals. And as far as I know SKF seals came stock on NCRs.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

350 ncr 2017 .. no foam rings


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

320 LCR 2016 - no foam rings.

Btw, just installed mine (I know that of above from other source). 
Comparing it to a brand new 2019 Recon RL, which feels super sensitive and plush, the 320 feels sticky and just not as smooth. Will ride it for a week to see if it improves.

If it doesn't, I'm getting ready to check oil levels in the lowers first. Reading on marzocchi's support page, it says I need 10ml of SAE 7.5 on the Left side and 10ml SAE 90 on the Right. 
Wondering why they differ, but again I'm not really sure of anything here. Do I stick to those values? Most of the posts I find and read are about the 350 so hoping the 320 is about the same so you can help me.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

If its similar to 350 ncr, the 320 is a semi open bath, so lower leg oil gets sucked into damper!

If its sticky it probably needs lower leg oil adding and also air chamber oil adding.


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Deartist7 said:


> 350 so hoping the 320 is about the same


nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.


More like the basic way it works, because of the DBC.

As far as plushness I'd like it to feel at least close to the Recon RL, which feels marvelous so far to say the least. The 320 feels full on meh, not even close in smoothness.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

Do a lower leg service and add a few ml of oil in the air chamber.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> nope, if we are talking about plushness and sensitivity.


I disagree.

I had experience with 320 LCRs from 2015 and 2016
Considering 100-120 travel, both were supersmooth and active. I'd say they best xc forks, but may be waaaay too plush and a bit heavy for xc. Rock Shox short travel forks felt like garbage comparing to 320s.

Also. LCR and NCR dampers are the same(difference in rebound knob and, obviously, size), but at the same time they are totally different from CR(LR) and C2R2 with only thing in common being that bleed hole.

CR(LR) is quite different to NCR(LCR) and is a lot more simple to produce, which is why FOX now uses it in budget segment calling it GRIP, which was later copied by Rock Shox for their new Charger RC (Replacement for MoCo in budget segment). While GRIP2 is a bit modified C2R2 from 380s


----------



## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Thanks. So in short, do a lower leg service, and add a few mms of oil to the air chamber.
Do I stick to the values in the Marzocchi website? If the oil gets mixed, I don't understand why would it need SAE 90 on one side and 7.5w on the other. Reading in here most seem to stick to 7.5 and in fact, haven't read about anyone mentioning SAE 90.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

It’s just easier to use 7.5wt in both Lowers because that’s what’s in the DBC damper. The damper cycles the bath oil in the lower leg so you definitely need to stick with 7.5wt in the damper side unless you rebleed the damper with something else. 
The air side doesn’t matter it’s just busching/seal lube oil. The heavier weight stuff just sticks better. I live and regularly ride in 40 degree C temps so I use 20wt. 

I also put 30-40ml in each leg so there is plenty to go around.


----------



## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Bluman8 said:


> The damper cycles the bath oil in the lower leg


It doesn't cycle oil like an open bath damper. More precisely to say: "it may eventually suck up some oil from the lowers through the main seal on the rebound shaft".

PS: Still need a photo of CR rebound needle.


----------



## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Thanks! I will just get a 7.5 then. Will update when I do the lower leg service to see if it improves.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

sorry for overthinking this, but going through as many information on the service of 2015-2016 forks (mostly 350 NCR), and comparing it to the 320 LCR info on marzocchi's website, I jsut realized that there's no main air tube on the exploded drawing for the 2016 27.5 320 LCR fork. 
https://www.marzocchi.com/support/f...-1632-1568&idMy=29478&idP=29527-761&idS=29492

I'm following this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLnY-Gap-1M

He takes the air tube out among other stuff. I'm wondering if the drawing is just wrong and I can just assume to also find an air tube on my 320 and follow nearly the same process as in the video. I won't mess with the oil seals though, I just want to check the lowers oil level and add a bit to the air side to aid progression, but I'm getting more and more confused. Also, he doesn't add any oil to the lowers on the air side, as a comment on the video pointed out, even though Marzocchi recommends doing so.
I'm definitely doing so.

It's my first time messing with an air fork so I want to be sure of everything.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

here might be some mistakes on the marzocchi site as for example my 2017 350 NCR is in the 320 series so take that website for what it is.
Anyways to do what you want, add oil for progression you just need to remove the valve core. 
And for lower leg its pretty straight forward.

Also the oil 15-20cc of 7.5wt that he adds in the air tube I am guessing that goes down to lower leg.... but actually I don't know how it could go into lower leg looking at the clip.
Your doubts are well founded  but again for lower leg service and adding oil for progression you don't need to get to that point of disassembly.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Yeah, I guess so. Thanks! Ended up getting Motul 10w fork oil which is a bit thicker, should be interesting to see how it feels. Will take it apart this weekend.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

So here's what I found on my 2016 320 LCR:

I first removed the lower leg bolts, no oil came out so I messed around with it until I took the damper unit out from above and a bunch of oil came out from the left side (looking from above, damper side). 
Nothing ever came out from the air side. Took the lowers off, both dust seals look like they never met grease before, though there seems to be sort of a gentle touch of oil between the oil and dust seal. Both sides are the same. Still pretty much dry.









No oil bath on the air side at all, but the inners seem to have some sort of greasy crap smeared on the walls.

Damper side:








Air side:








I'm scratching my head as for what to do now. I expected to find grease on the dust seals and was planning just to clean it a little and leave it like that until I bought appropiate grease for the job. All I have is Maxima Waterproof grease that I use for bearings and some cheap multipurpose lithium grease that I use on old forks. Should I just oil the area and re assemble along with the bath oil that I was going to replace anyway? Looks like I can fit a couple of foam rings in there, but idk if that's how it's supposed to work since it's supposed to have molykote 55 in that area.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Deartist7 said:


> He takes the air tube out among other stuff. I'm wondering if the drawing is just wrong and I can just assume to also find an air tube on my 320 and follow nearly the same process as in the video. I won't mess with the oil seals though, I just want to check the lowers oil level and add a bit to the air side to aid progression, but I'm getting more and more confused. Also, he doesn't add any oil to the lowers on the air side, as a comment on the video pointed out, even though Marzocchi recommends doing so.
> I'm definitely doing so.
> 
> It's my first time messing with an air fork so I want to be sure of everything.


350 uses separate air tube as a positive air chamber
320 uses the stanchion as its air chamber, like most of the other air forks.



Deartist7 said:


> I'm following this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLnY-Gap-1M


I love such videos, they called it full service, yet they never showed how to service the dapmer. And you are in a world of pain if you took that damper apart for the first time.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

It ain't rocket science. If you just removed the lowers, then clean them thoroughly, then slightly put the lowers onto the uppers(holding the fork upside down) and add 5-10ml of oil through the bottom holes in each leg. 
A bit of Molykote 55 on the lower part of that seals(the part which actually hold oil in) wouldn't hurt.
To add progression you need to add oil into the oil chamber, best way to do it is to unscrew valve core, add oil, screw the core back.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

In my 350 I had similar situation, no oil in the air leg and just a smudge on the damper side. Same like yours the fork was full of grease that has not a lot of sense in the sliding areas as it gets pushed away so its not ensuring lubing anymore so its more for assembly purposes I would say.
Adding oil to the air chamber its a must(even if this to has a lot of grease inside) as it instantly makes the fork more plush(the grease is not staying in the sliding area and gets pushed away). So even if you don't need progression just add a few ml of oil in the air chamber.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Deartist7 said:


> I'm scratching my head as for what to do now. I expected to find grease on the dust seals and was planning just to clean it a little and leave it like that until I bought appropiate grease for the job. All I have is Maxima Waterproof grease that I use for bearings and some cheap multipurpose lithium grease that I use on old forks. Should I just oil the area and re assemble along with the bath oil that I was going to replace anyway? Looks like I can fit a couple of foam rings in there, but idk if that's how it's supposed to work since it's supposed to have molykote 55 in that area.


I read/watched somewhere the reason that Marz spec'd molykote55 is that it doesn't mix with Golden Specto Oil and turn into nasty gunk. Since your using Motul which is semi synthetic as well the grease you've got might gunk up or might not.

But if it was me I'd probably just use the grease your've got for now and just re-do the lower service in couple weeks time when your've got some proper seal grease.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Missed that Motul part. For the lowers it doesn't matter that much, but for the damper (if you are going to take it apart) 10wt Motul might be too heavy and the fork might be too harsh. Also, purely subjective opinion, their "Expert" line sucks, while "Factory line" is a lot better.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

For lowers, damper leg is very important to have right oil! As damper is semi-open and "takes" oil from the lower leg.


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

Good suspension fluid comparison:

https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Bluman8 said:


> Good suspension fluid comparison:
> 
> https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/


we don't ride at 40C temperatures and VI is different.
there is a calculator to calculate viscosity at "real" temperatures.
https://widman.biz/Seleccion/operacional.php


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## Bluman8 (Oct 27, 2011)

graved1gger said:


> we don't ride at 40C temperatures and VI is different.


Fair enough. But it's fluid temperature not air temperature and its a relative comparison of fluids. 
I.e. Can "bla bla bla" be used instead of "bla bla bla"?


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

graved1gger said:


> 350 uses separate air tube as a positive air chamber
> 320 uses the stanchion as its air chamber, like most of the other air forks.
> 
> I love such videos, they called it full service, yet they never showed how to service the dapmer. And you are in a world of pain if you took that damper apart for the first time.


Good lord it was a world of pain.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

I ended up messing it up a bit but managed to get it back on track. I accidentally compressed the DBC rod when it was out of the fork, oil spilled out everywhere and I ended up with a rod full of air and old oil. Decided to ignore it and just pump the air out when the fork was assembled and release it with a zip tie. Made sense to me at the time.

For the seals, I cleaned them and added a dab of oil to each, and tried to add a little on the gap between the oil and dust seal, which of course inmediately fell down to the lower legs.
I added 15ml (marz says 10ml) to the air side and 20ml to the dbc side (marz says 10 but I figured it might need more cause of the spillage since the DBC sucks oil out of the lower leg).
Put everything back together, and the fork was compressing in a bit nicer and smoother way but still with a bit of stiction. And the lock out wasn't working.
So here's what I did: I figured the damper didn't have enough oil yet, so I took the little screw in the middle of the compression nut (part 95 on marz's drawing I think), pulled it out, and added 5-10 ml more oil in there. Put it back together, compressed the fork a few times, and the lockout sort of came alive, but not quite.
Repeated the process and the lockout was working perfectly, even firmer than before. LSC was also fully working, same with rebound. But still, there's sort of an initial stiction that feels like it should have gonew away, and the fork is suspiciously smoother on the first 20-30mm of travel, then hardens up a bit, and then smooth again. Could this be excess oil causing hydraulic lock symptoms?
I took a zip tie to the damper side seal and a little hiss of air came out, but nothing changed.

Anyway, I didn't take the air chamber out since I had the wrong socket size, and I want to add a few ml of oil like adyamg suggested. Maybe there's a lack of lubrication in there.

But now that I know how to take it apart, and that the DBC damper is fully functional again, I might just repeat the process, taking special care to not compress the damn thing, and use the appropiate oil levels this time. I'd do that on the weekend, so I'll still ride it a couple days to see if anything changed...

And btw, the Motul oil is factory line, and it says 100% synthetic on the bottle. It's quite bit thicker than the 7.5 Golden Spectro at 36 cst @40 versus 26.10 cst @40 on the Spectro. I'm okay with a slightly firmer fork, as long as it works smoothly.
The 5w Motul would have been perfect at 24 cst but no moto shop had it in stock. The other option was some dodgy Yamalube 10w.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Alright. So all I found is SRAM butter on a local bike shop.

As far as I understand, the oil must be compatible with the grease because it mixes and will affect the damper. Molykote 55 is compatible with Golden Spectro 7.5, so that's what Marz used. 
Since I'm using Motul 10w, i should look for something that doesn't react too much for the grease right?. Still have a hard time understanding how the grease could get past the oil seal to mix with the damper and bath oil. Maybe if it gets completely washed down...


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

If in doubt and you dont have the right substances I would better leave the grease out!


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Chiming in again. I'm having a few doubts about the travel on my 320 LCR.

First of all, I decided to go oil-only for a few weeks to see how it behaves. Haven't done any off road riding, just a bunch of commuting, but so far I don't think the oil weight is gonna be a problem. The lockout and LSC have been working perfectly. However, I found a light dab of oil sort of coming out of the DBC compression knob after a long ride. I'll keep an eye on it for now, fork still works the same.

About the travel, I can measure about 126 mm on the stanchions when completely un-compressed. I have been running around 20% sag with around 55 psi (Marz says 60-70 for my weight) but my methods have been sort of incosistent since I feel the stiction makes it harder to get a good measurement.
Anyway, at 55 psi it feels pretty soft and comfy, so I think it's about right. Still, I can't seem to get full travel even if I purposely beast-slam the front wheel repeatedly against the ground with all my weight on it, there's always a 20 or 30mm of travel left.

I took all the air out, and in fact, I can't compress the fork past that mark. Is this normal?









I remember that when I did the first service, there's was some sort of black thing on the bottom of the air side rod.









Is this some sort of bumper stop? 
I can't quite identify it on the Marz support site, but it might be the part just above the 52, which wouldn't make sense there is no 52 part under it (cir clip I think).
You can see the cir clip marked by the red arrow.

https://www.marzocchi.com/support/f...-1632-1568&idMy=29478&idP=29527-761&idS=29492

So now the black thing looks similar to the TOP PART of the 65 part, which is in fact a travel spacer. But as far as I remember (at least from the 350 NCR video), travel spacers don't go there.

So what the hell? Should I take it out? Seems like it would bottom out stanchion against bottom leg directly if it wasn't there, but again, I'm not getting full travel either. I'll take it apart again next week, still trying to get hold of some proper grease so I'll wait a little more.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

*350 NCR compression dial stuck*

Hi guys,
Seems I am having some problems with my Marzocchi 350 NCR 2017 model.
All of a sudden the compression dial stopped working. Until few days ago it was so smooth I could rotate it with just one finger.
Now it just wont budge ... so I took off the golden dial to see maybe something obvious has happened but nothing seems out of place so I am guessing its something with the internals of the DBC cartridge?

Has anyone encountered this? Any ideas of what could it be?


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

I have solved the problem last evening.
The culprit is 8501763/P CARTRIDGE DBC LCR/NCR COMPRESSION NUT. The little(very little) dented ball inside has somehow rotated or got out of its place locking the little thingy in the compression nut.
I have reassembled it, used a bit of grease and for now everything is back to normal.
For anyone facing this issue, there is a small clip that holds the little assembly in one piece. I used some tweezers to take it apart, see attached image.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

*320 LCR. The learning experience goes on*

After deciding to ignore the travel issue, I kept riding the fork on oil only (around 20ml each leg) for several months, servicing it twice, but never turning the bike upside down to re-lube the bushings and stuff because I forgot...and I think I paid the price.

See, a couple weeks ago I took it apart a third time and noticed some nasty wear and scoring on both stanchions, specifically on the area where the bushings go (I keep calling them bushings, not even sure now). I don't know if this has to do with the stanchion scoring issues on the 350. I don't understand how I didn't notice this before.










Also, after staring for hours at the diagrams and my fork lowers my last couple brain cells finally noticed that my fork has no oil seals. It's just a single dust seal and then the bushings. Are..are those bushings, right?


















I don't know how this affects the function of the fork but since It seems to be suffering from under lubrication I decided to use SRAM Butter on the dust seals.
My question is, since it doesn't have oil seals, in what sort of danger is my fork of gumming up the grease with the oil? All of the threads usually talk about the 350 NCR which does have Oil Seals and will do a better job on separating things. Not so much with mine.

Or should I keep with the oil only theme, squeeze some foam rings in the gap, and religiously turn the bike upside down before every ride to aid lubrication?


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Or should I, perhaps, order the Seal Kit here: https://bicyclesuspension.de/produc...-suspension-forks?_pos=6&_sid=155accb81&_ss=r

Which does include oil seals...
and see if they fit on the gap?

Which I don't think they will since the gap is a little less than 1.5 cm.


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## graved1gger (Jul 24, 2014)

Deartist7 said:


> My question is, since it doesn't have oil seals, in what sort of danger is my fork of gumming up the grease with the oil?


1. It is combined oil/dust seal. More so, those NOK seals seems to be quite good by themselves. 2015 and 2016 320 LCRs had combined oil/dust seals like any other fork manufacturer out there. If you look closely you'll see the inner lip there which keeps the oil in. 2014 320 LCR/LR still had separate oil and dust seals.

2. That Espresso and Gold Race coatings were a total ****. I've seen a lot of 350s, 053 shock, 320s with this coatings going from bad to worse. It wears down no matter what you do. Also Marzocchi was a bit careless with bushings and sometimes they were too tight. Combine that with a shitty anodizing... well you can see the results.

3. Slick Honey would help but I'd say you apply it only to an upper bushing and the inner lips of the seals.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Will try that, thanks.

Yeah, if that's so what a shame, I expected a lot less trouble from this fork, but I guess that for my first "proper" fork and at the price I got it, it's still a good experience.


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## adyamg (Jan 19, 2017)

The lower scoring was caused by the lower leg bushing and if you say you had 20ml of oil, its not the lack of lubrication that caused the problem,it is the lower bushing that is to tight.

For this fork it was recommended to use molykote 55 as it didint mixed up with oil as slick honey did.

Dont expect wonders and I wouldnt invest to much money in whatever bushings or stuff ... use it at it is.


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## Deartist7 (Sep 28, 2014)

Oh it's actually both bushings that are too tight then, there is also wear on the upper side of the stanchions but not as noticeable as the lower side.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Hello everybody.

Desperately need help.
Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016 with 160 mm travel.
DBC cartridge.

8032311/P
CARTRIDGE DBC NCR COMPRESSION UNIT 350

5182403/P
CARTRIDGE DBC NCR MAIN TUBE 160

Screenshot

There are two parts - 40 and 42, threaded togethere. Some of them (or even both) has damaged/broken/... thread, and now they never assembled for 100%.

The questions are:

1. Does anyone know places or whatever places where I could buy that DBC cartridge ?
2. Does anyone know places or whatever places where I could buy part 40 and/or 42 ?
3. Is there any ANY possible way to "connect" them forever ? Some kind of "glue" or whatever?? Any ideas are welcome!!!


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## bansaiman (Feb 7, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> Hello everybody.
> 
> Desperately need help.
> Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016 with 160 mm travel.
> ...


You can ask fox. BUT spare parts for marzocgji are so expensive. Better get an Avalanche cartridge for your fork and you will get a fork which is on par or better than a fox grip 2


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Could you please explain in details about my chance with Avalanche..
Im not familiar with that situation..

My fork is Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016
160 mm travel
DBC cartridge in left leg
15x100

What exactly I need to buy? I mean "avalanche cartridge".. Coyld you, pkease, provide links, details...


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Marzocchi 350 Cartridge Kit





> Marzocchi 350 Cartridge Kit including Adaptor
> and Midvalves installed, $399
> 
> No Longer Available
> ...


even if it would be in stock, honestly speaking I guess I would rather buy a new fork... For some time I'm lookimg with interest at DVO Diamond D1 27.5+/29 160 mm boost, so...


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Marzocchi 350 NCR 2016

From the official description on official Marzocchi website:
TRAVEL - 170 (160 - 150 -140) mm
WEIGHT - 1920 g / 4.23 lbs
WHEEL - 27.5
AXLE - 15 mm QR
DAMPING (L) - NCR
DAMPING (R) - AER
SPRING - AIR
STANCHIONS - O35 mm Espresso Treatment
STEERER - Tapered Aluminum
BRAKE SYSTEM - 6“ post mount - max disc 203 mm
COLOR - Flat Black
SEAL - SKF race seal

2016 - Matching Crown
2016 - Espresso Coating
2016 - DBC
2016 - CR2
016 - AER


The question is about that 170 mm of travel!


So, I've got that fork with 160 mm travel. Do I undrstand it right - there is a chance of possibility of increasing a trael to 170 ??

If yes then HOW ?


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