# Upgrading an older MTB; wise or foolish?



## Jake January (Sep 12, 2014)

So acquired (for free) an older Merida MTB with Shimano Acera components. The fork was roached and replaced.
The original 8spd group works, but is rather clunky.

Now have fork mount for a disc caliper.
The frame has holes for a caliper too.

I spotted a complete Shimano deore M610 group set, including hubs and discs for $400.00 on Amazon.
I've read this is a pretty decent rig.


My question I guess not being a bike builder yet, is this a realistic upgrade, while not the XTR domain this group set seems like a giant improvement over the base MTB Acera 8pd.

Also would it be basically plug and play? Or is it going to be a can of worms to sort out?

I'd kinda like to explore the 26"mtb platform some and dabble at building a bike.


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## billyrayeast (Dec 24, 2013)

That's a great upgrade for 400 bucks,one stop shopping...the hubs are good,if memory serves the rear hub is 32 poe which is a nice upgrade over the standard 16 poe Shimano stuff..all you need are the tools to remove the old stuff and install the new stuff...next question I guess is the bike worth upgrading to you???


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## theMISSIONARY (Apr 13, 2008)

It would all depend on how you feel about the bike.....

i have a Giant NRS1 composite 2004 that i am going to throw money at....why because i like it

Mind you IF i didnt already have a good wheel(Mavic 819) set and fork(Reba Race dual air) i doubt i would spend the money on it


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## shortnangry (Nov 16, 2014)

Deore is a nice groupset. It's not XTR, but who really cares. XTR is sweet but much of the cost is in weight savings relative to XT or SLX, for example. XT and SLX, too, would be lighter and work marginally sharper than Deore, but (1) would you really notice that difference; and (2) would it really matter to you at this point. The Deore stuff just works nicely and would be a tremendous jump from the Acera stuff. Assuming you're happy with the bike overall - geometry, size, etc. - its a great upgrade. Just know that you'll wind up putting in more than $400, and you'll end up with a used bike with old school geometry. It's up to you whether it's worth while. I keep sinking money and time into my 2011 bike (26" aluminum hardtail) because I like it. Also, just keep in mind a few things: crappy cables can ruin an even great drivetrain; garbage rims can ruin even great hubs; and it doesn't matter what groupset is on a bike if it's not properly installed/adjusted. Lacing the hubs to the rims is not a great DIY project unless you're an experienced wheel builder with the proper tools. Getting it dished and tensioned correctly is vital. There are specialized tools you'll need for the cassette and bottom bracket, but they're not real expensive. You should also have the BB faced and threads chased before installing the new BB and crankset. The LBS should be able to do that cheaply and properly; tools are super expensive for a home mechanic. Otherwise it is plug-and-play provided you know how to adjust the brakes and derailleurs. You will also likely have to shorten the hydraulic brake lines. Generally you won't have to bleed afterwards, but be prepared just in case. Additionally, you need to size and cut the new chain and the derailleur cables and housing. Lastly, Deore has a 2-ring and 3-ring crankset and cassette option of 11-34 and 11-36. Choose the options that best suit you and get a RD with sufficient capacity. Deore RD is either medium or long case (GS vs SGS). Generally, go medium cage, but if you go with a 3-ring setup and 11-36 you may need the long cage for capacity; I didn't check the numbers but they're in the Shimano tech docs on their site - verify this. Lastly, if the tires haven't been changed, you'll probably need new ones. You don't have to go crazy on price, but tires make a big difference. This stuff is not brain surgery and will make for a great home project. You do, however, need to know how to do it and have some specialized tools. There are a lot of great threads on this site, a lot of good vids on Youtube (and some junk ones of course), and many manufacturers have good tech docs on their sites. Enjoy.


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## billyrayeast (Dec 24, 2013)

I bought a '95 Specialized Steel/Rigid for 400 bucks? back in '95 and a couple of years ago I put 300 into it but I love that bike and I ride it as often as possible during the warmer weather...so a free bike,good solid frame that you like to ride,putting some money into seems reasonable


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

IMHO, you can get a current-gen modern bike complete with this level of componentry new for ~$800 and that would be a better choice. Who will build you new wheels with the Deore hubs? That alone will cost a bit of coin by the time you buy new rims, spokes, etc. - you need to factor in this cost. Yes, you could use your old rims and save a few bucks but even then you will need new spokes as your new hub flanges are a different diameter than the old ones. I vote "can of worms" - for ~$800 you can get a new bike that will rival/exceed your planned upgraded bike. If you want to do the bare min. to this bike to get it functional and have fun with it, I would say that isn't a bad deal. Obviously only my opinion.


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## nmum (Oct 10, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> IMHO, you can get a current-gen modern bike complete with this level of componentry new for ~$800 and that would be a better choice. Who will build you new wheels with the Deore hubs? That alone will cost a bit of coin by the time you buy new rims, spokes, etc. - you need to factor in this cost. Yes, you could use your old rims and save a few bucks but even then you will need new spokes as your new hub flanges are a different diameter than the old ones. I vote "can of worms" - for ~$800 you can get a new bike that will rival/exceed your planned upgraded bike. If you want to do the bare min. to this bike to get it functional and have fun with it, I would say that isn't a bad deal. Obviously only my opinion.


You're comparing $800 to $400. That's like double the cost and $400 more.

I'm not familiar with what goes into building a bike but most of the recommendations that I've seen is to buy a new wheel set versus lacing a wheel.

lol.

I started out thinking that I was going to argue against your point but am kind of seeing the validity to it. Assuming that bikes with a Deore set range in the $800 range and I'm not familar with the OP's bike.

Looking at BikesDirect, it looks like you can get bikes with the Deore/SLX components for around $500 to $600. I got kind of excited when I saw this one for $299:
Save Up to 60% Off Mountain Bikes - MTB - Dawes Haymaker 1500

But then saw that it's out of stock.


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## KevinGT (Dec 25, 2012)

My advice to beginner in reference to upgrading is simple: only replace what you break or wear out. If it doesn't work, replace it but upgrading a working part to something "better" is a waste of money for a new rider. More time on the bike is FAR more valuable to a beginning rider than "better" parts.

The only exception I have is brakes. Older, used bikes tend to suffer more in the brake department than anywhere else and good brakes will be a noticeable improvement if yours are poor.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

nmum said:


> You're comparing $800 to $400. That's like double the cost and $400 more.
> 
> I'm not familiar with what goes into building a bike but most of the recommendations that I've seen is to buy a new wheel set versus lacing a wheel.
> 
> ...


My point was it won't be $400...I have had a lot of experience with this over the years...the wheels alone will cost another $100 at least to get them built up to the new hubs. What about the tools required to cut down the housing and cables? A chain tool? Just saying that it will l likely end up around $600 all said and done and at that point, get a modern bike with the same stuff for a few hundred more. Best advice here is only replace what you really have to ride and have fun.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

I agree with these guys. Unless you know how to do all of this yourself and have the tools necessary to do it, you could be in for quite the headache and end up spending more than you could buy a modern MTB with Deore already on it. On an older MTB, I would just do what's necessary to get it in riding condition and leave it at that. 

It would be a great platform for you to learn maintenance on because you could tear it down and overhaul it, replacing necessary things like chain and freewheel/cassette, cables, etc... and put the rest of your money toward a newer bike.


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## mjydrafter (Aug 20, 2014)

I bet $400 would buy you a pretty nice, up-spec'd bike, newer bike on the used market. I agree that if you don't have the tools, this will not be that much fun nor as cheap as you would like.

It's been my experience that you can often get a used (probably better) bike whole, less expensively than upgrading older stuff. The other thing is that with the old stuff your parts choices are severely limited.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

Jake January said:


> So acquired (for free) an older Merida MTB with Shimano Acera components. The fork was roached and replaced.
> The original 8spd group works, but is rather clunky.
> 
> Now have fork mount for a disc caliper.
> ...


Don't bother...

$400 for a new drive train and hubs? Don't bother. If a wheel is broken get a new built wheel. I got one from performance bike for $70 that is compatible discs (which I don't have) and rim brakes (which I do have). Cheap and not much more weight than 2003 vintage Mavic that cracked. The problem is once you start upgrading part of the bike you can run into compatability issues with other parts on the bike. This forces you to upgrade more and more parts. Better to save that $400 for spare parts and for a better overall bike in time. For ride the old one like you stole it and don't look back. I can hold my own on a 26" hard tail with rim brakes that I built in 2003.


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## Jake January (Sep 12, 2014)

All good advice, I know I should have just tossed the bike in a dumpster when I was given to me.
Part of the reason to play with this bike is to try out the Schwalbe Big Apples 26x2.35 tires.
And the other part is education. I reckon I'll be learning a lot by upgrading all the components.

Down the road I reckon I can swap the Deore components onto another more desirable frame, like a Surly Troll.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Look at Ribble for individual components. M615 Deore brakes are $82.


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## Terranaut (Jun 9, 2014)

It all depends on what value the bike has to you personally. This is not an easy question to answer yes or no. If you love the bike, spending money to keep it on the trail is worth it but if you are just spending money on it to keep it riding ....maybe a newer bike would be a wiser choice. The point is only you can answer your own question.


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## theboomboomcars (Sep 10, 2007)

If you are wanting to learn how to do it, and are willing to invest in the needed tools, that is a good price for the parts.
If you are wanting to learn the bike mechanic stuff, building new wheels is not terribly difficult if you have the patience, time, mechanical aptitude, and can follow directions. If you check the wheels and tires section, there is some great information and references. If you are mostly doing this for the savings, by the time you have got the required tools and such, you won't have saved any money, and you'll have a meh frame and fork with decent components.

It all depends on your desired goal for the project.


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## Jake January (Sep 12, 2014)

My other bike was the smart move, a one year old base Rockhopper. I like the way the 29er wheels roll and how nice the newer base 9spd Shimano Alivio shift set up is.
So a 10spd Deore has gotta be pretty sweet.
But I want a world travelling bike eventually and realize that the 26" wheel is more practical for that. The Surly S&S coupled World Troller is the frame I really want but gotta save me pennies.
In the mean time I reckon I can assemble the components on the Merida, which actually rides not too bad just the way it is. The geometry is a bit more relaxed than the Rockhopper.


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