# Teeter TotteR?



## paintballpunk687 (May 28, 2008)

Hey guys does anyone know where i can find building plans for a teeter totter, or inspirational pics? 

Thanks
mike


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## Glynis27 (Sep 28, 2007)

Search for "Teeter" on Pinkbike in the gallery. Also check out...

http://fatcyclist.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!B26536EE8298D087!8069.entry

http://www.singletracks.com/blog/?p=37

Good luck. I just built one last night.


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## mtb777 (Nov 6, 2005)

Always check IMBA's Website as there have some plans and good photo's of all kinds of structures.


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## Skookum (Jan 17, 2005)

If you know how to build a deck you know how to build a teeter totter.

There are a few key things to consider in whatever application you choose.

You are dealing with a movable structure. Just like a full suspension bike, when you get movement or play in one of your bushings or bearings the linkage get's worse and worse after each use. So...

You want...

A. A firm base, that will not move or rock. i now am a firm believer in a table style base, where you have 4 posts, and 2 support spans on each side. But you can drill a hole through a huge rock too, what matters most is you have a base that doesn't move. For lumber use 4X4 treated for legs, 4X6 non treated hem/fir (stronger wood) for spans.

B. You can use galvanized steel plumbing pipe and fittings to fabricate the linkage. Rest and fix pipe on top of the spans. Drill slightly oversized holes through teeter deck, then attach 2 to 4 fittings to teeter deck for weight bearing. Again get your measurement close to keep your side to side movement to an absolute minimum.

C. Whatever kind of wood deck you use, you must brace the apex or middle of the teeter by "blocking" or "sistering" in additional blocks around the middle where you have the pipe running through. If you want the structure to last you have to beef up and reinforce this section to the point of almost being overkill.

D. Your wood deck can be built like a simple wood deck. With 2x6 or 2x8 stringers. If you have a wide teeter you can add a 2x4 stringer in the middle. Slats can be 1x4 or 2x4's. You can go longer with dimensional lumber, or use logs, just consider the points i make where strength is critical, and adjust accordingly.

If you want your teeter to totter faster you can always attach more wood to the blocking on the approach end, so it falls back faster...


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## paintballpunk687 (May 28, 2008)

Sweet thanks guys you gave me a good idea ill go try it!


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## Breakurnees (Dec 13, 2007)

http://videos.mtbr.com/?bcpid=1480107757&bclid=1493222199&bctid=1631292075&title=Klondike+teeters&description=breakurnees+from+Missouri%3A%0APlaying+on+the+teeters+at+Klondike+Park+in+Augusta%2C+MIssouri

Build Two its more fun! The ones in the video were built by our trail crew. They 'land' on a buried tire that is sunk about 3/4 into the ground. They each have rock approach/transition.


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## Skookum (Jan 17, 2005)

Breakurnees said:


> They 'land' on a buried tire that is sunk about 3/4 into the ground.


That's a great tip....


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## pinkheadedbug (Aug 16, 2006)

Here's one I built:



Mine is huge... 16' long and weighs a ton. I wouldn't make anything bigger as you get VERY high and the action is quite slow, so you almost have to track stand at the end. It's quite easy to ride, but very challenging mentally.

The construction is in three parts. There's the base, then there's a partially hidden box (although you can see it here) which pivots on the base, then there's the ladder deck which sits on top of the hidden box. It's all pressure treated lumber and screwed together with 3" deck nails. The pivot is a threaded steel rod running through a metal tube.

Took me half a day to build. The only tools I used were a skilsaw and a drill.

If you click on the pic it will take you to the flickr set. The big versions of the pix will reveal all the construction details.


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