# Commute via XC bike overkill?



## jayz28 (Feb 2, 2009)

First I must profess I'm a total newbie, so please forgive my naivete; it is unintentional  

After reading all the road vs mt threads I could find, it seems the general consensus is that the major con of a mountain bike for commuting is its lack of speed due to weight, suspension inefficiency, and knobby tires. A bit more research later, it seems to me that higher end XC bikes can approach the weight of a road bike, and with a front suspension lockout for climbs, it "should" in theory approach the performance of a road bike, especially if the knobbies are swapped out for some road slicks.

Does a light XC bike with road slicks and suspension lockout represent the best of both worlds? Or am I completely overlooking something?

My commute is around 10 miles round trip, almost entirely hills on mostly sidewalk/pavement if I go the long way. I'd like to be able to explore some shortcuts as well as ride some trails on the weekends, hence the motivation to look into mountain bikes.

Thanks in advance,
Jay


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## semperfi658 (Oct 29, 2008)

my bike has a lockout fork which lets me climb with great speed. bike only weighs about 30 pounds.

i often ride with my friend who owns a road bike and we race down paved mountain roads.

he leans forward and is able to maintain 35 mph.
i have to lean forward and pedal as fast as i can in the highest gear just to keep up. 

conclusion: the tires make the biggest difference to me. the friction!


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

jayz28 said:


> After reading all the road vs mt threads I could find, it seems the general consensus is that the major con of a mountain bike for commuting is its lack of speed due to weight, suspension inefficiency, and knobby tires.


The major con of an XC mountain bike for use on the road is the poor aerodynamics. The typical wide armed, upright position of a mountain bike causes a lot of extra drag when compared to riding a road bike where you normally have a lower and narrower position. This is really noticeable when you go over 30mph or when riding into a strong headwind. If you're really bothered about speed make sure to wear cycling shorts and top whilst riding too. Loose baggy clothing really hurts your speed. The extra drag from baggy clothing will cost you at least 1 or 2 mph when riding.

Your choice of tyres makes a big difference too of course. A slick or lightly treaded semi-slick is a lot better than a knobbly offroad tyre on tarmac and worth a few extra mph.

Within reason I don't think weight is a major decider between the two types of bike. The aerodynamics are more important most of the time. Used on the road a 24lb road bike (for example) is likely to be faster than the same rider would manage on a 19lb mountain bike (for example) because of the lower drag.

With a modern bike suspension inefficiency isn't really an issue either. If you're used to riding a full suspension mountain bike then you keep your upper body still and consciously smooth out your pedalling style to minimise inputs into the suspension. Depending on the bike and your settings you normally only really end up with bad suspension bob sprinting hard out of the saddle. Compared to a road bike the suspension on a bike such as a Specialized Epic doesn't really give that much away, even when climbing. Working on your seated climbing and acceleration is the key to stopping a FS bike bobbing.:thumbsup:

One major con for using an XC mountain bike for commuting is that mountain bikes are typically more complicated and need more maintenance. If you're considering full suspension in particular the service intervals can be quite short. A simpler bike with less to go wrong is less hassle if you just want to ride it to work without having to service it all the time.


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## pop_martian (Mar 20, 2007)

It's funny you asked this since just this week, I have been riding my XC race bike into work. No real reason other than it hasn't gotten much love lately. Now here's the real kicker, I think I am faster on it than on my road bike. I was only 1 minute slower on my commute than my fastest time ever on my road bike, and I wasn't pushing too hard either. If I had known when I set out that I had a chance for a new personal best, then I would have pushed harder. 

For the record, my road bike is loaded down with my rack and panniers and I wear a back pack on the mountain bike.

I don't plan on riding it much to work anyway. It's way too expensive to put commute miles on it!


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## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

I've commuted on my XC hardtail several times. I just swapped out the wheelset with another one with narrow slicks. With the slicks and the fork lockout, it seemed pretty efficient on my route - flat roads with the occasional highway overpass. You could probably get a lighter and more efficient (for commuting) front end with a rigid carbon fork.


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## jayz28 (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for the help everyone. I think I'll go ahead and pickup an off brand XC bike in the 20-25 lbs range and swap out the knobbies for some semi-slicks for my commute and just deal with the fact that I'll be a few minutes later


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

I commute with an XC race bike, which is complete OVERKILL...but I love the way it flies on the road. I run XC race tires, which is the closest thing to road slicks- but can still jump on dirt...in an instant.

I can easily maintain 26mph on the flats, but my road bike has it beat. The road bike can maintain 35mph without much effort. The XC bike climbs almost telepathically and is supremely suited to smooth singletrack trails.


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## bigdudecycling (Aug 16, 2007)

I'm thinking you may be onto something. With an xc bike you can find more shortcuts on trails, canals, backyards, etc. With a road bike, you are pretty limited to the streets. Plus, you can probably maneuver a little better if need be when cars are around (ie, jump up onto a sidewalk; how off a curb) if the cars are getting a little dangerous. I commute on my surly LHT with some wide tires to give me a few options (canal paths, etc), that I wouldn't want to take my road bike on.....My mtn bikes are FS, so harder to put a rack onto, so the surly is my compromise. If I had a hardtail mtn bike, I'd probably alternate between the surly and the hardtail just for diversity......


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## Gary the No-Trash Cougar (Oct 14, 2008)

jayz28 said:


> Thanks for the help everyone. I think I'll go ahead and pickup an off brand XC bike in the 20-25 lbs range and swap out the knobbies for some semi-slicks for my commute and just deal with the fact that I'll be a few minutes later


I always say, if you're more comfortable on a MTB then go with it. Especially if you do plan on hitting some trails along the way! Who cares how much faster a road bike makes you? Is it a commute or a race?


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## pop_martian (Mar 20, 2007)

Zachariah said:


> I commute with an XC race bike, which is complete OVERKILL...but I love the way it flies on the road. I run XC race tires, which is the closest thing to road slicks- but can still jump on dirt...in an instant.
> 
> I can easily maintain 26mph on the flats, but my road bike has it beat. The road bike can maintain 35mph without much effort. The XC bike climbs almost telepathically and is supremely suited to smooth singletrack trails.


Wow! 35 MPH?! The fastest time trial in the Tour de France averaged less than that. I think you need to re-calibrate your speed sensor!


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## Thinkly (Apr 9, 2007)

pop_martian said:


> Wow! 35 MPH?! The fastest time trial in the Tour de France averaged less than that. I think you need to re-calibrate your speed sensor!


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## damrtn (Jan 14, 2009)

*35 mph....you mean kph,right???*

I use my 25 lb hardtail and have 2 sets of wheels one with slicks.
It's GREAT for commuting and really fast especially with my spd clips...
Sometimes i even slap on my aerobars and then I am really close to 
speed of a road bike.


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## Fungazi (Mar 31, 2005)

jayz28 said:


> My commute is around 10 miles round trip, almost entirely hills on mostly sidewalk/pavement if I go the long way. I'd like to be able to explore some shortcuts as well as ride some trails on the weekends, hence the motivation to look into mountain bikes.


Always ride whatever you are comfortable and will have fun on. 5 miles each way isn't far enough to be worried about how "effcient" or "ideal" the bike is. I ride my "all mountian" bike about that far every day.


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## perttime (Aug 26, 2005)

Shortcuts. Mmmmm

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=5415892&postcount=7


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## PscyclePath (Aug 29, 2007)

If a feller can only have one bike, a decent hardtail MTB is a good choice. For commuting and utility riding, you'll want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. Holds your stuff going to and from the office, and when you ride trail on the wekends or whenever, that rack trunk is just right to hold a six-pack of either brew or Dew ;-)

Fenders make a difference in winter or wet weather riding. Depending on your route and your intentions to be an all-weather rider, these are likely optional. Good lights are a must, front and rear, and good commuting lights will work for moderate trail riding, too.

I commuted on my XC 29er for the first year, now have gone to a Cross-Check (a little lighter, easier to cheat the wind, and a good multi-purpose all-around town and country bike) but my 29er is still the back-up commuter since there's quite a few places around Little Rock where it's hard to tell the pavement from single track ;-)

Tom


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## Dirty Tiger (Nov 2, 2008)

PscyclePath said:


> If a feller can only have one bike, a decent hardtail MTB is a good choice. For commuting and utility riding, you'll want to be able to put a cargo rack on the back. Holds your stuff going to and from the office, and when you ride trail on the wekends or whenever, that rack trunk is just right to hold a six-pack of either brew or Dew ;-)
> 
> Fenders make a difference in winter or wet weather riding. Depending on your route and your intentions to be an all-weather rider, these are likely optional. Good lights are a must, front and rear, and good commuting lights will work for moderate trail riding, too.
> 
> ...


I did the same thing.

I wanted to start commuting as a way to ease back into cycling an 8 year lame spell.

I started my short commute on a Monocog 29er...simple, beauiful, slow.

I started wanting a geared 29er as an all-around commuter/fun bike. I came real close to buying a Rockhopper Comp and switching to rigid forks.

But then.... I started seeing Cross Check threads on various forums. I ordered the complete thinking I would swap out parts down the line.

So far, I love it as is. It's great commuter for my needs.


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## Dirty Tiger (Nov 2, 2008)

Ok, Sorry about the long winded non-answer...

I think a flatbar Cross Check would make a very nice light & fast psuedo-MTB commuter.


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## Squash (Jul 20, 2003)

*To the OP...*

this is a debate that has gone on for a long time. The bottom line is, it's up to you. My personal preference is for an MTB commuter. I have a 10 mile commute round trip. The safest route involves some dirt trails and allot of "not very nice" paved sections. None of which are particularly road bike friendly. I've riden a road bike over most of the route and it is actually faster and safer (and shorter) on a mountain bike. And it's a lot easier on the body as well. I use a hard tail with a set of heavily siped road specific 2.0 tires. The bike has a suspension fork with lock out, but I never use it. I've got two pretty good climbs in the "to work" direction and have found that proper pedaling technique pays off more than locking out the fork. Of course it helps that the two climbs are part of the only resonably maintained paved section of the route. I usually average between 15 and 20mph on the paved sections, and about 5mph less in the dirt. The dirt sections aren't very aggressive trails but they are on the rough side and usuitable to a road bike.

With all that said, my primary focus isn't speed, it's the ride! I love to ride. I'd ride it on a single speed coaster brake cruiser if that's all I had, and still enjoy it.

The key is, let your route and road conditions, or the way you intend to use the bike, dictate the type of bike. An XC MTB can be an efficient commuter. It won't be as fast or efficient as a road bike on the road. It can't be, it's the nature of the beast. As for maintenance. A ridged mountain bike requires no more maintenance than a road bike, a hardtail requires a bit more as you have the fork to maintain, and a full suspension of course you add the rear suspension into the mix. But it will require no more frequent maintenance than any other bike used to commute. But it will require more frequent maintenance than what you would do if you used it only off road. More miles equals more frequent maintenance for any bike.

The bottom line is, use what works for you. If you tend to take short cuts that involve dirt road, dirt trails, vacant lots, etc. an MTB will work well. If you stick to reasonably maintained pavement then a road or cross bike is hard to beat. Either way it's fun and good for you. :thumbsup:

Good Dirt


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Interesting thread. I have an 8.5 mile route that involves 6 miles of steep gravel roads and 2.5 miles of hilly state highway. Although my route is actually a small part of a difficult yearly "road race," I find myself getting to work much faster on my XC racing bike than my road bike. The road bike in danger of a popped tire or worse, a crash on the downhills should I push it to keep up with my mountain bike's times (top speed: 39.1mph downhill on gravel, 16mph average). 

Plus I have justified all the bling on it to my family by making it my daily driver :thumbsup:


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## steviemidnight (Apr 2, 2009)

Well not to be different

I currently commute the 7-8 miles on jump bike - Mongose Hardluck! and although i get blown out of the water by some roadies I'm too competitive and thus rarely get over taken or left for dead. by the way its also currently my only bike

My commute is central london with some stairs foot tunnel etc. I've passed so many people with flats on road tyes that i feel the MTB bike is the only way to go. The roads are horrid state, pot holes etc and the traffic means jumping on off curbs, jumping down stairs etc. Now my commute is really some what of a sprint and hence the jump bike makes it fun and thats all riding is for me.

So i'm currently in the market for a new bike the salt and general winter weather has really taken its toll. Now being older and slighter wiser I'm looking for a lighter faster ride to work i.e. a XC rig.
However i really only want one bike and am thus currently can't make up my bind between a stumpy HT or full sus
The full sus will be wasted and there is more to go wrong! but i like the feel an after testing a few I feel it will in courage me to take my bike out in the country more where it belongs. Also the other point is i'm looking to get a awesome deal on a 2008 FS elite or pay the same for a 2009 HT comp - testing both bikes this weekend. Now my heart says get the full sus has is a great deal and only a little heavier than the HT. but by brain is saying HT all the way. let me know your thoughts???
Oh an i also plan to get back in the XC race game - purely for fun but something i haven't done for 15 od years since i was at school

I'm rambling now - its 3am and i can't sleep, my brain is running wild and i have to be at work in 5 hours. so sorry for spelling etc


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## Gary the No-Trash Cougar (Oct 14, 2008)

I think I would be more inclined to go with the HT; less maintenance, weight, etc.... but if your heart's really set on the FS then pull the trigger!


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## fish2live (Mar 9, 2009)

Lovin' this thread - just got a mint condition 2001 Klein Attitude Comp Disc and I'll be using it for a 9 mile commute each way - moderate hills. I also consider this part of my daily exersize regime and actually don't mind a little "extra work" a MTB might require over a road bike.

*QUESTION about tire choice... *
Anyone have favorties that are "good enough" on the road and "good enough" on trails (not mud and things, just hardpack)? How about these from Ritchey?? The Speedmax Beta http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=98995


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## sanjuro (Sep 29, 2004)

I would probably go with the Tom Slicks. 

The wider tire might be a more cushy ride, but if I am going to put real miles down (I did 25 yesterday), I might as well go with a narrower tire. 

I am using Tom Slicks and I am satisfied.


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## Gary the No-Trash Cougar (Oct 14, 2008)

Michelin Country Rocks always seem to do the job for me. The close together diamond tread pattern makes them fast-rolling, like a slick but I've also taken them off-road and had no traction problems. Probably wouldn't be too hot on an loose, rocky incline but they're definitely "good enough" on hard pack trails.


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## 88 rex (Aug 2, 2007)

Dirty Tiger said:


> Ok, Sorry about the long winded non-answer...
> 
> I think a flatbar Cross Check would make a very nice light & fast psuedo-MTB commuter.


I love flat bars, but I really do appreciate the option of multiple hand positions on my drops. I would opt for bar ends on the flat bar, or something like dirt drops. Just my 2 cents:thumbsup:


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## dog.gone (Mar 14, 2009)

*Maxxis Hookworms?*



Zachariah said:


> I commute with an XC race bike, which is complete OVERKILL...but I love the way it flies on the road. I run XC race tires, which is the closest thing to road slicks- but can still jump on dirt...in an instant.
> 
> I can easily maintain 26mph on the flats, but my road bike has it beat. The road bike can maintain 35mph without much effort. The XC bike climbs almost telepathically and is supremely suited to smooth singletrack trails.


Maxxis Hookworms?


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## WR304 (Jul 9, 2004)

Something worth mentioning if you're doing a lot of miles on any bike is to not stay in one position too long. It sounds obvious but try to make a point of taking each hand off the handlebars from time to time whilst riding to relieve the pressure on your wrists. It's really easy to forget and if you're not careful your hands can go to sleep completely.

With the hand you take off the bars let it hang straight down by your side and shake your arm/ shoulder whilst flexing your fingers repeatedly until they stop feeling numb. I'd try and do this every 10 minutes or so of riding to begin with. Try not to have a death grip on the bars as it's unnecessary on the road, you could try riding with your thumbs on top of the bars too.

If you make a point of drinking from your water bottle/ camelbak regularly that will help you too as you have to take one hand off the bars to do that. Having a cycle computer with elapsed time on the bars is useful. I like to have a routine where I drink regularly/ use either hand to wipe the sweat from behind my sunglasses/ get out of the saddle to stretch and eat something every 15min from a back pocket.

This thread about slick tyres for MTB commuting is worth looking at for tyre ideas: 

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=431413


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## stingray_coach (Jun 27, 2006)

I commute on a Cannondale hardtail and use some continental *traffic* tires...which work perfect and I can still hit mild trails. Using a mtn bike is good for me...I can still wear my camel back, plus I got a cool bag that attaches to the seat post (German shops have them). Plus you can jump curbs and manuever around well on a mtn bike.


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## sbrick (Mar 29, 2009)

*Hard Tail vs FS*

I have been commuting on a Mountain Over Size Schwinn 21 speed for about 6 months now every day every where I need to go. I thought the new Motobecane 700DS fs bike I recently got would be faster but honestly after riding both today I think the Schwinn is actually faster. The Schwinn has WTB Allterranasaurus tires and the Moto has new Velociraptor tires. I think the Velociraptors being a much more aggressive tire are part of why it seems slower. I think I will put a set of the Allts. on the Moto soon to see if that helps the speed thing. I have a small Honda motor on the Schwinn and it weighs 17 pounds with fuel and without the engine running I still think the Schwinn is faster. It has a front Jandd rack as well installed. My Moto has to be more forgiving on rough dirt roads but I have only had it 2 days now. I will ride it to work tomorrow for the first time to see how it compares to the Schwinn on the bumpy dirt roads. The roads get pretty bad here in Taos, NM. Thanks to everyone for all their input here.

I plan to install a Honda engine and a Staton chain drive on the Motobecane soon. I can't wait to try 25 mph on the dirt roads with fs.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

sbrick said:


> I have been commuting on a Mountain Over Size Schwinn 21 speed for about 6 months now every day every where I need to go. I thought the new Motobecane 700DS fs bike I recently got would be faster but honestly after riding both today I think the Schwinn is actually faster. The Schwinn has WTB Allterranasaurus tires and the Moto has new Velociraptor tires. I think the Velociraptors being a much more aggressive tire are part of why it seems slower. I think I will put a set of the Allts. on the Moto soon to see if that helps the speed thing. I have a small Honda motor on the Schwinn and it weighs 17 pounds with fuel and without the engine running I still think the Schwinn is faster. It has a front Jandd rack as well installed. My Moto has to be more forgiving on rough dirt roads but I have only had it 2 days now. I will ride it to work tomorrow for the first time to see how it compares to the Schwinn on the bumpy dirt roads. The roads get pretty bad here in Taos, NM. Thanks to everyone for all their input here.
> 
> I plan to install a Honda engine and a Staton chain drive on the Motobecane soon. I can't wait to try 25 mph on the dirt roads with fs.


 Why not just get a moped?


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## sbrick (Mar 29, 2009)

*Moped vs. MTB with engine.*

I have $600 in the Motobecane 700DS plus a few accessories. The chain drive kit and 4 stroke Honda engine with a CVT Nuvinci rear hub costs $1100. This setup will top out at 40+ miles per hour and average 240 mpg. I don't know of a scooter on the market that will do that at that price! If there was one on the market I would obviously buy it because I would not have to put it together. :thumbsup:


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## ranier (Sep 9, 2003)

sbrick said:


> I have $600 in the Motobecane 700DS plus a few accessories. The chain drive kit and 4 stroke Honda engine with a CVT Nuvinci rear hub costs $1100. This setup will top out at 40+ miles per hour and average 240 mpg. I don't know of a scooter on the market that will do that at that price! If there was one on the market I would obviously buy it because I would not have to put it together. :thumbsup:


ok, pics please!


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## sbrick (Mar 29, 2009)

*Pics on suppliers website.*

Go to www.staton-inc.com to see pictures of their chain drive kits and the Nuvinci hub.


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## dana109 (Jul 15, 2008)

Last week i rode my GF HiFI 5" travel trail bike to work. Just because the trails are still covered in snow but the streets are dry and i hadn't gotten to really ride it.


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## HardyWeinberg (Aug 3, 2007)

jayz28 said:


> After reading all the road vs mt threads I could find, it seems the general consensus is that the major con of a mountain bike for commuting is its lack of speed due to weight, suspension inefficiency, and knobby tires.


fwiw I think that knobby tires is the only issue of those 3 worth addressing. I commuted thousands of miles on a hardtail w/ short-travel front suspension and had no real inefficiency issues. My current bikes are both rigid-rigid but they're also HEAVY.


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## longcat (Apr 24, 2008)

I komm00t on a gt avalanche, got some offroad fenders and stuff, I used it every working day for like 6 months, works like a charm, I just set the dampenator at 100mm or so. On the other hand the only bikes I ever had has been XC hardtails, do everything bikes. A road bike can only go on the road but a XC bike can go anywhere, and I live out in the sticks so a road bike would last like 5minutes here, actually it wouldnt even survive from home to work. I think you should get a montainbike you can set it up to whatever anyway.


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## skottt160 (Apr 25, 2008)

Zachariah said:


> I can easily maintain 26mph on the flats, but my road bike has it beat. The road bike can maintain 35mph without much effort. The XC bike climbs almost telepathically and is supremely suited to smooth singletrack trails.


no, you can't.


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## TacoRim (Jul 4, 2007)

sbrick said:


> I plan to install a Honda engine and a Staton chain drive on the Motobecane soon. I can't wait to try 25 mph on the dirt roads with fs.


I hope you're not planning to ride that turd on mountain bike trails. If you rode that setup on my trails I would punch you in the neck and call the police.


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## BWX (Apr 26, 2009)

TacoRim said:


> I hope you're not planning to ride that turd on mountain bike trails. If you rode that setup on my trails I would punch you in the neck and call the police.


I don't think you could catch him...


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## nagatahawk (Jun 20, 2007)

Oh its deteriorating here!!

Dog Gone:

I love your bike, maybe I'll keep mine. I picked up a KHS flite 300 it has braze ons and I almost picked up a faster wheel set for it. here's the pic. forget it I'm having sizing issues.


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## Yukon-RSX (Feb 6, 2007)

Gary the No-Trash Cougar said:


> I always say, if you're more comfortable on a MTB then go with it. Especially if you do plan on hitting some trails along the way! Who cares how much faster a road bike makes you? Is it a commute or a race?


I'll second that. With my work being only about 3 or 4 miles away I can poodle along on my MTB and get there with very little sweat.

As GTNTC says go with a MTB if you like soft and plushy rides.


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## Buster Bluth (Sep 11, 2008)

Paging Rodney King!


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

I know this is a old thread but there's really a lot of good information here. Just decided I should commute with my XC bike too. I'm going to use my old wheelset (a little more heavier than my Mavic Crossride's) and buy some slim tires to put on it. Then with my FOX suspension locked I think I'll go much easier to work.


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