# Finshed my Cree / Bflex light.



## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

I wanted one of the new $300.00 LED lights - 3 weeks of calling the
lbs and getting "any day" then I got "all gone" LOL. So I placed an
order to Cutter. Built the light and just returned from my first trail
test.It was killer. My ride ended early due to a chain break but the hour I spent on the 
trail gave a great impression. This light floods the the trail with light. Sorry the beam 
photos did not come out. I will post later on battery run times. This was the build.

Just finshed a bench test. After 2hr 10min on high the light shut off. From one 2200mah battery.










The light, wiring harness, battery. I went with 2 2200ma packs instead
of 1 4400ma pack cause the price was only $2.00 more. They both come
with the circuit for battery protection. Also 1 pack fits in a pouch
I had for my camera, not used at night. Most weekday night rides will
be about 1.5-2 hrs -1 pack. On longer rides I can do a swap. The
wiring harness has a momentary push button for beam control and
programming. It's mounted on a ring that snaps on and off the handle
bar by my right shifter. The wiring is a lose end. Not sure if I'm
going to change it or just cover it with shrink. I plan to dip the
batteries and switch in plastic dip. Good waterproofing and easily
removed.









The light mount has a quick release.









I found the flash light at electronics parts house when I went to get some connectors.
When I take it apart I find the lock ring fits very snug around the
LED heat sink. The LED,lens.heat sink assembly screw in and buts up
against the front lens. That was sweet.









But I had to shave down the edges of heat sink so the handle will
screw back on.









I go through a dry run to make sure everything fits. Clean the clear
parts. Put heat past on the sink and on the threads of the lock ring.
And assemble.

Next I need to seal it cause I'm going pore thermal epoxy in and want
to keep it out of the lens area. There are a few holes in the heat
sink and notches around the lock ring. I used RTV.

Next I screw in the handle. Not to concerned about getting a o ring seal
cause the epoxy will do that. Mixed and pored the thermal potting
epoxy . Filled it about a 1/2inch up the handle. Let it set 24h.









The Task led PCB is 25.4mm and the flashlight handle is 23.4mm so I
needed 2 flat spots on the PCB to make it fit sideways in the handle.
With a dremel I shaved about 1mm by the coil and another 1mm directly
across form it. This cuts into the planes but they are common to each
other and the -in pad. Not a big deal. Could not find my sealer so I
just cut a narrow strip of electrical tape to wrap the edge.
There is a nice button hole in the back of the cap to put a connector
but mine barely fit cause the cap is double walled. I did not even
have room to put a o ring on so I just used RTV on inside.

Lots of fun doing this. Thanks to all the posters, especially Gilbo :thumbsup: that share ideas.


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

*Looks great*

NICE!!! I like the flashlight housing solution. The optics fitting right in there is key! Is that a widely available flashlight or just something you hapen to find? Looks clean and solid. :thumbsup: 
Just got back in town and my lenses and drivers have arrived. Your light is great early project motivation for me. I'll have to look into the flashlight approach. 
E


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## Hawseman (Jun 1, 2007)

Nice job, stewed.

That should be a pretty hearty headlight. :thumbsup:


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Thanks. I was looking for a housing in a MR-11 size. This one was a little larger - if you look close at the front photo the Khatod lens outline is visible. The main reason I picked this one was price- about $15.00. The thermally conductive epoxy was the key. Move the heat from the heat sink to the case. The package says 28-LED metal flash Light. The brand is SE part# FL328T1. http://www.orvac.com/ link to the store. Don't know if they ship.

Here is a question for anybody that knows optics
Cutter describes the lens as a Khatod narrow beam 35mm Triple optic. This think lights up the trail in front and easily 20feet to each side.I would not describe it as a narrow beam. I am wondering if if the having the Khatod lens butted up to the plastic Lens of the cheap flashlight changes the optics any. Not complaining - the light is great.


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## msxtr (Dec 10, 2006)

Nice job!!!!! :thumbsup: 

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

*Optics*



stewed said:


> Thanks. I was looking for a housing in a MR-11 size. This one was a little larger - if you look close at the front photo the Khatod lens outline is visible. The main reason I picked this one was price- about $15.00. The thermally conductive epoxy was the key. Move the heat from the heat sink to the case. The package says 28-LED metal flash Light. The brand is SE part# FL328T1. http://www.orvac.com/ link to the store. Don't know if they ship.
> 
> Here is a question for anybody that knows optics
> Cutter describes the lens as a Khatod narrow beam 35mm Triple optic. This think lights up the trail in front and easily 20feet to each side.I would not describe it as a narrow beam. I am wondering if if the having the Khatod lens butted up to the plastic Lens of the cheap flashlight changes the optics any. Not complaining - the light is great.


Cutter offers that optic seperately w/ 3 choices, 10, 25, and 40 degrees. Your optic looks like the 10 (because it doesn't have the hexagonal outer lens faceting that the 25 & 40 degree have as shown on the data sheet, which oddly does not list or show the 10 degree) which when compared to other lens company offerings (like L2 OPTX from ledsupply) is a little wider than _their_ "narrow" lens listed as 6 degrees. You probably looked into the specs of your optic when you bought it, but 10 degrees isn't that different from the L2 15 degree lens that they call their medium. I guess its open to interpretation, and based on comparisons to other products a company offers.
Unless the front protective lens of the flashlight has some beam spreading qualities (meaning it isn't totally flat) it shouldn't do much to the light output or beam spread other than absorbing a little bit of light. I think the 10 degree spread of the optic is just considered "narrow" when compared to the 25 and 40 degree optics from Khatod, not to other lenses.


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## dropthehammer (Jul 7, 2006)

Props on a great looking design! 

Could you please provide a detailed bill of materials?

I found the flashlight online... looks like a near perfect housing. I am just getting started, just received a couple of buckpucks and some LEDs to play with. Need to try the Cree's out. Are they the P4 U-bin? Lambertian?

not up on the optics at all.


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## MT Road (Sep 26, 2004)

Hey nice looking and a project I am starting on.. a few questions..

What Lumen output do you get from that set up? 
Are you using the Cree XLamp XR-E?

and What is the purpose of the PCB board, no driver should be needed if you are operating at the 8 or 12 watt range? 

Anyway if you can provide some detailed directions and a parts list I may copy your design.. keeps me from making mistakes (that is of course if you do not mind)

Thanks C


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Hi 
dropthehammer
Could you please post a link to the flashlight that you found.

There is probably a better flashlight case out there. It would be nice to avoid the PCB mod. But you don't know whats inside till ya buy it. I got lucky there was a display model by the checkout stand. So I tear down the flashlight in front of the checkout lady. LOL I just had to avoid her glare.:skep:

I got the bflex uib2 and the 35mm heat sink from cutter.

http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=41 (scroll down)

The PCB has software options that you setup.

The Thermally Conductive Epoxy is made by GC Electronics. And did not conduct from a meter test on a Fluke, >32Meg.

The heat sink compound is from radio shack 276-1372. Option - Cutter has Arctic Silver adhesive.

SPST momentary pushbutton switch (N.O. contacts) from the shack #275-644

Flashlight connector. Cannot find the package. I'm going back to Orvac this weekend though so I'll get the numbers and post. Option would be to find a different one. The one I used is good quality but a little overkill. A lower profile one might look better. If you use the same flashlight check the cap specs before buying the connector though. I had to open the hole with a step drill and round the corners of the connector nut to get it inside the cap.

Battery connectors
1/8' phone plugs 2 Male and 2 Female (from the shack). I put the males on the charger/light cable and the females on the batteries. Option - I used these cause I had them on-hand - There are allot of better choices for connectors though.

Got the batteries from All-Battery.com - Li-Ion 18650 14.8V 2200 mAh Rechargeable Battery Pack with PCB Protection. Part#: L18650-2200-4
Option - I was going to buy a Li-Ion laptop battery from a e-bay vendor - one that was stick shaped to strap on the bike. I got these cause they fit in my camera pouch.

Got the bike mount and a Li-Ion smart charger from batteryspace.com;

Handle Bar Mount for NightPro / Trail-Tech HID or Halogen Bike lights
Part#: BK-MOUNT002
(Qty: 1 x $9.98)

Universal Smart Charger (1.5A) for 14.8V Li-Ion Battery Pack (4 cells ) with two pins universal connector
Part#: CH-LI1418-4
(Qty: 1 x $27.95)


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Hi MT Road
Thanks.



MT Road said:


> Hey nice looking and a project I am starting on.. a few questions..
> 
> What Lumen output do you get from that set up?
> Are you using the Cree XLamp XR-E?
> ...


Want to get out for another ride. But in OC Cal it's about high winds, high heat, smoke filled air. Have wait a few days.


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## dropthehammer (Jul 7, 2006)

Thanks for the response...

Link to the flashlight housing: http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Electronics/Landing3744a990.html


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Thats it!
Dam. I paid $15.00:madman: 
LOL Thanks


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

Nice


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## Homebrew (Jan 2, 2004)

Nice work. Please get some real power connectors and decent gauge wire (18 AWG or better) ASAP.


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Homebrew said:


> Nice work. Please get some real power connectors and decent gauge wire (18 AWG or better) ASAP.


18 or better? how much bigger? 16,14 or 12? LOL. The taskled PCB is drawing less than 800mA @ about 14.8Vdc (high beam). My wire looks 20 but lets call it 21 gage. I just looked at a chart and 21 is good for 1.2A . Ya the phone jacks are not "power connectors" but I think they can handle 12-13wats. I have run 2 tests at over 2Hrs at high beam and did not feel any temperature coming off the jacks. I might change em, or not. If I keep them I'll make a rubber boot. 
You comments are welcome though. A few others seem interested in building this and these are points they need to consider.

After giving it some thought - ya the battery connectors are border line Micky Mouse. I'll be shopping this weekend.


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## MT Road (Sep 26, 2004)

Can you take a beam picture at night? just for referance..

Also did you get the optics of just use the one from the flashlight?


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## dogstar (Dec 16, 2005)

*another link to that light, I think...*

Dropthehammer's is cheaper, but I'm adding this in case they go out of stock... BTW, adding the MCM catalog code at the shopping cart (source code="d710") brings it down to 11.99.

*edit* duh, I should include the link ;-)
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=58-10705&catalog_name=MCMProducts

Now to decide what is less of a hassle -- using one of these lights or modifying one of my old niterider setups. Yes, they NRs have the mounts all ready to go, but then I'd need to cut slots and figure out the headsinking (like Patrase's "Trail King.": http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=340672)...

Of course I have two ND dual digital heads and two single heads so I have lots of room for screwups ;-)

Again, nice work on this.


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

Was there a link you had to share?


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## dogstar (Dec 16, 2005)

*sorry about that.. I updated my post*



02Slayer said:


> Was there a link you had to share?


Whoops.... updated post with link -- and here, too.

(http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=58-10705&catalog_name=MCMProducts_


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

I'll try again. I'm using a Pentax opto A30 - a point & shoot. It does have some manual settings. Any suggestions on setting would be helpful. You might want to check out Gilbo's post. He's got some nice shots. He used the fatman - mine is the taskled PCB with the bike firmware. But should be the same beam (correct me if I'm wrong). The air is still very unhealthy around here. But on Friday I plan on doing another test ride on the Fullerton loop. If anybody wants to hookup it would be interesting to get some feedback.


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

Cool. Thanks for that. I don't know that site, but it looks like it has some good stuff.


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

Finely got a good test ride in. Also my first night ride. And some usable photos. My first and biggest concern was heat. The ride lasted about 2hrs. I used high beam most of the time and heat was never a problem. Outside air was about 66F. Right now heat is no longer a concern.On a warm summer night night that may change and be necessary to run at 75%. A word of warning though. When I was on a very bumpy down hill the thought occurred that the heat sink could lose contact with the LED. But I realized that the way I used the potting epoxy every thing was locked in place. Depending on your design it might be advisable the get the arctic silver Cutter offers. The Taskled PCB does have a temp sensor on board that can be programed to lower the beam when a limit is reached.

I liked the beam, but have no experience to compare it to. When I stopped to take some photos another rider came by. He had new a helmet light - think it was a halogen. Lets just say I thought it was no contest. I resisted the urge to ask if we could do a side by side photo shot.

The handle bar mount is going to work for me. But I noticed on a rolercoster section as the front hits the crest I was looking into a abyss until the rear of the bike got to the top. Advantage helmet mount.

The battery system works also. The packs go for about $30, and are good for 2hrs on high. Quick swap after a failure. I use my bottle holder so I needed to find a alternative.

The beam control button is great. I can switch beams without hardly moving my hand. A park I go through was gated close so I had use a dark street. When a car approached I would flash it a few times to get attention.

At this point there is nothing I want to change. I've built a couple projects here and there. Mostly digital stuff. My methods suit my needs. I shouldn't be surprised if someone points out a weakness. Defiantly shouldn't go anal - probably it was the ASAP part. But to be honest a close friend thats a accomplished engineer did not like the wire gage ether. The conversation ended with me telling him were to shove his #18. :incazzato: I wanted to pull out my digital scope and take this to the next level. But thank god for bike rides. It works, I had fun, it's not perfect, good enough.

Some beam shots, most did not come out. Need a tripod. I don't think the photos do the light justice.


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## 02Slayer (Mar 5, 2004)

If you are satisfied, then the project was a success. It looks pretty good to me. 
Enjoy!


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## Bryguy17 (May 19, 2007)

hey! its the fullerton loop :thumbsup: saw the tunnel under harbor and thought it looked a bit familiar 

Anyways, nice light, its very clean. if i get my light setup going by summertime, i'd be happy to hit some trails with you. until them im stuck at school though


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## bwilli (Apr 3, 2006)

I know this thread is old, BUT...

Did you pot the driver board? TaskLED recomends against this, but I'd love to be able to do that with the build I am planning.

Thanks!

BTW great light!


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## achesalot (Nov 8, 2005)

Wow. Yes this thread is getting old  

I did not pot the board... and eventually, when I was screwing around with different mounts, I accidentally shorted a screw across the board and fried it... so... at least maybe delicately shrink wrap it! Since then I nearly always use the Luxdrive 3023 wired Buckpuck, because they come potted and are cheaper... and I don't need all of the functionality of the bFlex (granted it's a good product).

EDIT: Whoops, thought this was my thread (similar title). Sorry... but answer still applies


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## bwilli (Apr 3, 2006)

Thanks for the reply!

I was really really hoping that the build shown had successfully potted the bFlex.... If I could pot it, my life would be sooooo much easier!!

Maybe I'll have to take a chance and do an experiment......:idea:


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## stewed (Aug 29, 2007)

LOL, ya about a year old.

I used GC Thermally Conductive Potting Epoxy. I think Cutter was warning about using potting that will short out the board. The GC stuff is made for electronics. The potting does a great job of getting the heat from the heat sink to the outer case. I was nervous about using it cause there's no turning back after it's pored. No regrets the light still works great - through he beam has yellowed a bit.

Good luck with your project.
stew


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## bwilli (Apr 3, 2006)

Excellent. :thumbsup: 

Just what I wanted to hear! I'm buyin' some of that stuff today so I can finally build this light. I've had the parts for a year and just haven't had time.

I'll document what I do- but with so many really cool builds that are happening now I don't think mine will add anything, but what the heck!


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