# overhauling 1995/1996 gary fisher Marlin



## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

Hey everyone,

So I've got a '95 or '95 marlin that I think I want to overhaul to make a reliable commuter. I have done nothing to this bike except change tire/tubes, added fenders and occasionally lubed the chain. 

I would like to replace the following:
-bottom bracket (I can 'feel' this needs work/replacement)
-rear cassette
-crankset (probably because the chain has stretched so much that they will need to be replaced)
-chain
-brake pads
-pedals (which I have)
-front fork (currently and old rock shox fork that I would like to replace with a rigid fork)

I do not know if I have to replace the derailleurs. The shifting is grip shift that does not work very well anymore, and I guess could be replaced. The frame and wheels are in good shape.

Basically, how do I go about finding out which parts are compatible with this bike? I haven't done much work on bikes myself, but would love to use this opportunity and bike to learn. I enjoy DIY projects so I welcome the challenge. Any tips or suggestions? Does anyone know what this may cost? 

Thanks.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Pretty low rent bike, but solid frame. Here are some suggestions
-Crankset and BB 
Shimano FC-M410 square taper crank with a 73mm x 110mm UN26 bottom bracket

-Rear Cassette
Shimano HG-41 7 speed cassette

-Chain
SRAM PC-850 or KMC X8.93

-Brake Pads
Kool Stop Eagle Claw 2

-Fork
Dimension Rigid Non-Disc fork which is corrected properly for the age of the Marlin

-Shifters
SRAM MRX 7 speed shifters

You can get a general price for all these at Universal Cycles
Universal Cycles - The Largest Selection of Road and Mountain Bike Parts


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

mtnbiker72- thanks! big help!

Quick question. I thought I just read that the BB was 73 x 113, will the one you suggested fit? 73mm x 110mm.

Or better yet, if you have the time, can you describe to me how you came to this conclusion? Obviously you have to match the BB to the frame, and the cranks to the BB...

Edit: More questions, (I'm pretty excited this is actually going to be doable!) Will any 7 speed shifters work? Can I go with something besides gripshift? What do I use for the front derailluer shifter? 

Besides your normal allen wrenches, adjustable wrench and other regular tools, I do not have the special tools need for the bottom bracket. How do I find out which specific tool I need to remove that? 

I should also replace the free bearings in the hubs. When I overhauled those about a year ago there were definetly some flat spots on the ball bearings. Where can I find those? Would you recommend new cones? 

Again, thank you so much! I'm excited for this project now.


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

-the crankset I recommended can use 110-113...I prefer a narrower chainline and since the frame is steel and not large diameter aluminum tubes the 110 should work fine. But a 113 will work too.

-for procedures and tools needed, I recommend the Park Tools website which has full tutorials
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog

-You can go with the SRAM TRX 7 speed shifters if you want triggers, they will work for both your front and rear derailleur.

-yes you should replace the bearings, and cones if they are pitted. The Park website above can help you determine this. Most LBS will carry loose ball bearings.

Good Luck


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

One other question:

Can you tell me the details of the fork I would need? Threaded, threadless, and size? I believe I need 1 1/8'', but I'm not sure on threaded vs threadless...


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

Should be a threadless 1 1/8" fork on there. Get one with ~420mm AC length (dimension & tange suspension corrected go for ~$50 new). 
You would probably be fine with a non-suspension corrected fork though (~390mm Axle-CRown), got an old rockshox quadra on there now?

As for the threadless/threaded question check out this page. Post a pic if you're not sure.

Derailleurs & shifters- I'm sure yours work fine, but you will need to replace the brake & shift housings + cables. Get a one each (brake/shift)of jagwire or alligator (pricepoint?) or nashbar kits on sale. Check the shifter action with cable in it but not run through the housing to evaluate if you need new shifters (twist shifters are pretty simple & bullet proof).

Crankset- deore is always great bang for the buck, just be sure to get the right BB for it if it doesn't come with it. Probably 73mm bottom bracket width, if your marlin is aluminum. Easy enough to measure. Which BB spindle lenght totally depends on which crankset.

Evaluate your rims as well, check the sidewalls for wear. I've worn thru rims before.

Figure out how much you plan on investing and decide whether you might just want to buy a new bike, unless you can find a used donor bike in good shape.


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

oh yeah, there's lots of good sites out there to assist in working on your bike, but start with Sheldon Brown (already linked above) & Park Tools.


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

logbiter, thank you. I figured I needed my shifters changed because the just don't shift well... I'll look through sheldon's and park tools page to see if i can fix them and continue to use them.


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

Going back over what I want to do with the bike, and trying to decide if its necessary to replace the fork. It is an old rock shox, probably 3 or 3.5'' travel. (I've since taken the stickers off the fork.) I have it locked out (or near locked out). Would you replace it with a rigid fork?


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## logbiter (Dec 30, 2003)

if it works, just go with it for now. I've even put PVC spacers on a worn out old fork like that just to keep it running on the cheap. (pvc on stanchions to keep it from compressing, since the elastomers were goo. The rockshox elastomers usually turn hard, so you probably wouldn't need to do this)
Keep your eye out for a decent used fork on ebay or ask around at the LBS's for a cast off. 
I've picked up some nice OEM rigid forks on ebay for less than $30 shipped, but it takes some patience and looking. The cheapest cromo from my LBS specialized/trek/giant dealers was $50+ new or $30 for a hi-tensile one from J&B importers (sunlite?).


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## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

zeppman said:


> Going back over what I want to do with the bike, and trying to decide if its necessary to replace the fork. It is an old rock shox, probably 3 or 3.5'' travel. (I've since taken the stickers off the fork.) I have it locked out (or near locked out). Would you replace it with a rigid fork?


Show a picture and I can probably determine the model. Replacement elastomers are available through this site. A good cleaning, lubing, and fresh elastomers may revive that fork.

suspensionforkparts - Home


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## Jacknife417 (Nov 10, 2011)

Ever make any progress on this? Just picked up an old marlin today in hopes of making it my commuter!


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## zeppman (May 11, 2007)

Jacknife-

As I was pricing things out, I stumbled upon an great deal on another bike. I decided the extra $200 was worth it in getting a 3 year old bike in great condition over trying to fix up the marlin.


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