# Torque wrench



## Retire (Jan 11, 2020)

What T wrench do you like when working on your bike?
Any ones to avoid?

thanks


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

this one works great for bike parts.









Spin Doctor Torque Wrench Set


The Spin Doctor Torque Wrench Set is an important tool to have around. Factory standard torque measurements are important for the performance and safety... SD-TW




www.performancebike.com





just set to zero after every use


----------



## scycllerist (Jul 31, 2017)

One thing to consider, practice with the wrench on junk metal or with lag nuts in to wood before the bike. That's to make sure you fully understand when the wrench reached it's torque setting.


----------



## Retire (Jan 11, 2020)

Thanks. I have big 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrenches. But they do not seem to have a fine enough adjustment for a bicycle. Start at 10 and 25 foot pounds.


----------



## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I get a couple preset torque keys for little stuff in the setting(s) I need. Right now, I have a 5Nm one that handles cockpit bolts just fine. I've considered a 6 or 7Nm one to go with it, but 5 has been fine.

The only time I need much else is for crank bolts (~50Nm range +/-). I use an inexpensive beam-style one. My torque keys cost more, tbh.


----------



## EKram (Oct 30, 2020)

This is is a subjective topic. You get what you pay$ for. I.e, Harbor Freight $, at the low side. Park Bike tools or Snap-on or similar $$$$ on the high side. Just saying.... *Any mechanic, shop or otherwise, has a brand/tool they like best.*

To clarify me . DIY mechanic. Needs. Low cost, decent quality. Low use. I use these

Most of my bike parts: CDI Torque Products TorqControl TLA28NM Screwdriver, 2-8 Nm, 1/4-Inch Hex Magnetic Bit 
Anything else: An inherited tool. GreatNeck 1/2 inch Drive Click Style Torque Wrench


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

bikes parts are typically in Nm and start at 2 (lock on grips) and up. most are in range of 5Nm which are stems, handlebar controls, cable anchors... so that is why there are a lot of preset torque wrenches set to 5nm. suspension bits/bolts are gonna be the most torque....that and the crank


----------



## Retire (Jan 11, 2020)

2-8 nm a good range? Saw one at REI for $98. A Silca. 
How does that saying go? Pay for quality, cry once, buy crap and cry often.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

get the one I posted, cheaper and goes to 24Nm. you don't need to spend more these are decent little wrenches

consistency is key. set bolts with your wrench and manufacturer recommended torque,
then use the same setting on the same bolts each time
always set these spring torque wrenches to zero after use so the calibration lasts as long as possible


----------



## Amt0571 (May 22, 2014)

Retire said:


> What T wrench do you like when working on your bike?
> Any ones to avoid?
> 
> thanks


I'm using a Tacklife torque wrench I bought on Amazon. It works well. Checked it against a friend's torque wrench and seemed accurate.


----------



## SpinFactor (Jul 30, 2020)

I prefer a dial type torque wrench, you can use any hand position and extremely accurate. nice to be able to see the torque increase and really get a feel for it. 
I have snap-on been using for many years but this one on AMZ has pretty good reviews and decent price....150in lbs covers just about anything on a bike except cranks.
Just scribble down your most common nm to in lbs on your shop wall...good to go


----------



## Retire (Jan 11, 2020)

I hadn’t really thought about the preset ones. Could be handy and since they only have one torque setting in them. More reliable and longer lasting?


----------



## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

i've been thinking...what's the point of a torque wrench for carbon parts. wouldn't it be best to simply tighten just enough. for example tighten the brake lever bolt just enough so that it doesn't spin and stop there.


----------



## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

dundundata said:


> i've been thinking...what's the point of a torque wrench for carbon parts. wouldn't it be best to simply tighten just enough. for example tighten the brake lever bolt just enough so that it doesn't spin and stop there.


It's better to just torque them to the correct setting then tighten then see if the will spin and then score the carbon part.


----------



## 127.0.0.1 (Nov 19, 2013)

no torque wrench for carbon ?
just hand torque carbon till you hear a snap. that's T, and 1 past the stop point. 

buy new part and tighten to T-1 ... yer good


----------



## David C (May 25, 2011)

I bought both the TW-5.2 and TW-6.2 torque wrench from Park Tools years ago. They are both 3/8 drive with reversible ratchet, can torque in both direction.

I use the TW-5.2 the most, it as a 2NM to 14NM range. I do a lot of marine electrical work too where the 2-14Nm range is spot on. Great wrench and decent price too.



https://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-5-2?category=Torque%20Tools



Another brand I've been using is Tekton, using them for lug nuts on my car. They have good products and lifetime warranty with no question asked. I do not have experience with their lower range torque wrench tho.


----------



## wayold (Nov 25, 2017)

dundundata said:


> i've been thinking...what's the point of a torque wrench for carbon parts. wouldn't it be best to simply tighten just enough. for example tighten the brake lever bolt just enough so that it doesn't spin and stop there.


I do a version of this - using a torque wrench. For the controls on a carbon bar I'll use a torque wrench set to 4 or 5 nm, tighten just enough to prevent movement, but stop if should ever reach the click point of the wrench. My wrist is reasonably well calibrated (and I almost never reach the click point), but for carbon I want the security of knowing I won't exceed torque spec.


----------



## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Best just to torque to correct specs, too loose can damage carbon parts too.


----------



## wayold (Nov 25, 2017)

J.B. Weld said:


> Best just to torque to correct specs, too loose can damage carbon parts too.


That's certainly true - when a specific torque spec exists. Lots of carbon bars, though, have a "do not exceed" rather than a "torque to this value" spec. In that sort of application I take the manufacturers at their word and go somewhat below their do not exceed spec.


----------



## knl2stl (Jan 7, 2011)

For lower specs I like a screw driver type rather than a socket wrentch type, so force comes from above and not way off to the side. I know of a lot of people that set things to spec but then strip stuff when their bike is in the stand, which can flex a lot.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

^^^^ I think you're describing an inexperienced user.


----------



## David C (May 25, 2011)

knl2stl said:


> For lower specs I like a screw driver type rather than a socket wrentch type, so force comes from above and not way off to the side. I know of a lot of people that set things to spec but then strip stuff when their bike is in the stand, which can flex a lot.


Who does that ?? Unless you only have one hand ?


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Lot's of people do that. There is a whole industry out there where Torque Screwdrivers are very common. Perfect for low torque applications as suggested by knl2stl. These are not cheap, entry level torque tools. I prefer these for all items in the 5 Nm range.


----------



## FJSnoozer (Mar 3, 2015)

127.0.0.1 said:


> this one works great for bike parts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have this wrench. Ive never zeroed it out.

What is the story behind that method? Which way does it go in calibration if this isn't done.

I'll just start storing it zeroed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bacon Fat (Mar 11, 2016)

The theory is to reduce the compression on the spring if it sits for a while. Some people say to reduce to zero, others say to reduce to 10-20% of max as having some tension on the spring is important to keep internal parts touching each other and not moving. The calibration can go either way and the only way to know is to compare it to a known good torque wrench or have it calibrated.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

All professional grade, click-type torque wrenches that I have owned or used were instructed to return them to the lowest setting. All OEM's that I have seen state this slightly differently, but all state to unload spring to avoid permanent deforming damage.


----------



## David C (May 25, 2011)

Yup, follow the manufacturers recommendations when storing the precision tool. All I've seen so far said to store at lowest setting, for click type wrench, but there might be some different instructions for some less common ones.


----------



## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Bacon Fat said:


> The theory is to reduce the compression on the spring if it sits for a while. Some people say to reduce to zero, others say to reduce to 10-20% of max as having some tension on the spring is important to keep internal parts touching each other and not moving. The calibration can go either way and the only way to know is to compare it to a known good torque wrench or have it calibrated.


The 'zero point' on most tools is not actually the lowest setting--as in, you can still unscrew the adjuster further than whatever the lowest number on the scale is.

Man, those product engineers think of everything.


----------



## chadbrochills (Aug 9, 2018)

Pro Bike Tool









Torque Wrench Set - PRO BIKE TOOL US


PRO BIKE TOOL 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench Set – 2 to 20 Nm – Bicycle Maintenance Kit for Road & Mountain Bikes, Motorcycle Multitool - Includes Allen & Torx Sockets, Extension Bar & Storage Box



www.probiketool.com





Love it.


----------



## Amt0571 (May 22, 2014)

dundundata said:


> i've been thinking...what's the point of a torque wrench for carbon parts. wouldn't it be best to simply tighten just enough. for example tighten the brake lever bolt just enough so that it doesn't spin and stop there.


Because "just enough" is a subjective matter. And there's people there strong enough to break anything without noticing.

That's mainly why torque wrenches were invented. To provide an objective measure.

Personally, I only use the torque wrench when carbon is involved.


----------



## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

chadbrochills said:


> Pro Bike Tool
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks guys n gals, ladies n germs, I think I will give this one a try. Has good reviews and not a bad price if I do say so myself (and I do).


----------



## Karmatp (Feb 7, 2020)

I told the Easter bunny about the probiketool, I even added it to my cart on Amazon. I think I will have one in my basket. 😄


----------



## D. Inoobinati (Aug 28, 2020)

Here's a sensible and intuitive DIY for torque wrench calibration:


----------



## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

ProBikeTool torque wrench mini-review. Nice fit and finish, lots of bits, case to store everything with metal clasp. Came with a calibration certificate. Got the black one and it's looks good.

If anything I was under-torqueing bolts on the carbon bars and frame, so it is very nice to have.


----------



## Hit Factor (Apr 7, 2021)

Made in Wisconsin - Wright Tool 2477 Click Type Metal Handle Torque Wrench, Silver - - Amazon.com

Yes, it's quite a bit more money. A lot better quality, not everyone needs this quality. Hopefully you don't find out in hindsight that you do need this quality.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Hit Factor said:


> A lot better quality, not everyone needs this quality. Hopefully you don't find out in hindsight that you do need this quality.


What defines 'quality'? I see this as accuracy in terms of a tolerance range. I think we all want an accurate torque wrench.


----------



## DeeCount (Oct 3, 2020)

There was a big review on torque wrenches by one of the european bike sites. Can't find the link but the Topeak digital wrenches came out on top. Essentially spot on across the full range tested with certified calibration equipment. Having a digital sensor rather than a spring also means it will hold calibration a very long time. Very expensive, but someday I shall have one


----------



## eatdrinkride (Jun 15, 2005)

I realize this thread is a bit old but Topeak, Spin Doctor, Park etc etc etc...none of these companies manufacture torque wrenches, but they do charge a premium to slap their brand name on them. They are likely commonly sourced Chinese factory items sold under numerous labels. All that being said, if you are going to buy Chinese give Tekton a thought. They have a lifetime basically no questions asked, no receipt required replacement policy (that I just learned about). Their c/s gets really high praise across the board from what I have read online. I'll be filling out the form and sending a pic tomorrow so I'll get a first hand look at their c/s.

I've had two Tekton wrenches for a long time now. The smaller one only seems to 'click' in the CC direction. Been that way for a year or so, wish I would have looked in to the warranty sooner. I just figured it was a year at best.


----------



## DeeCount (Oct 3, 2020)

I'll have to look into them, they have a wrench with the range I've been trying to find. The price seems a little low though for a quality tool.









1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Micrometer Torque Wrench | TEKTON® | TRQ21101


TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Micrometer Torque Wrench: 10-150 in.-lb. (1.1-16.9 Nm). Designed for use on bicycles. High-contrast scale and zipper case.




www.tekton.com


----------



## BiffMcGriff (Jun 19, 2021)

eatdrinkride said:


> I realize this thread is a bit old but Topeak, Spin Doctor, Park etc etc etc...none of these companies manufacture torque wrenches, but they do charge a premium to slap their brand name on them. They are likely commonly sourced Chinese factory items sold under numerous labels. All that being said, if you are going to buy Chinese give Tekton a thought. They have a lifetime basically no questions asked, no receipt required replacement policy (that I just learned about). Their c/s gets really high praise across the board from what I have read online. I'll be filling out the form and sending a pic tomorrow so I'll get a first hand look at their c/s.
> 
> I've had two Tekton wrenches for a long time now. The smaller one only seems to 'click' in the CC direction. Been that way for a year or so, wish I would have looked in to the warranty sooner. I just figured it was a year at best.


I have a Tekton hex wrench set and am super happy with it. Would have no qualms purchasing from them in the future if I don't need American made.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

BiffMcGriff said:


> Would have no qualms purchasing from them in the future if I don't need American made.


What American made product do you need?


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

I guess wera isn't an option either then.


----------



## BiffMcGriff (Jun 19, 2021)

Cleared2land said:


> What American made product do you need?


More to insinuate the highest quality products as far as high precision tools go. I know, it wasn't a great comparison as many come out of foreign shops.

That being said, the majority of the $60ish torque wrenches being posted here are all pretty much exactly the same, branded differently. I have the Vibrelli version which has been good.


----------



## yomtnbiker111 (Mar 25, 2006)

Many years ago I had a torque wrench malfunction. I over torqued and stripped an oil pan bolt on a SUV. The $90 wrench caused me to ruin a $685 Toyota oil pan. It was because of a poorly designed or poorly manufactured clockwise/counter clockwise selector. When I choose L or R the lever just didn't lock firmly into place. I had been using it to torque spark plugs on my dirt bike and my very old Benz....scary! Oh well lesson learned.

I cant afford Snap On wrenches but I try to at least buy good ones. CDI wrenches are good as are a few Asian made ones.

My bike mechanic for the past 23 years uses a Topeak D Torque.









Best bike torque wrenches: Tighten your bolts to the perfect torque


The right tool for the job is an absolute necessity when it comes to getting torque values right




www.cyclingnews.com


----------



## D. Inoobinati (Aug 28, 2020)

*Member has removed content due to fundamental disagreement with this site owner's views favoring expanded access for electric mountain bikes (eMtb) on multiuse singletrack in public lands.*


----------



## yomtnbiker111 (Mar 25, 2006)

I have felt safe using a Park ATD 1.2 but need more range....Gotta love Chris King Fun Bolts.


----------



## yomtnbiker111 (Mar 25, 2006)

D. Inoobinati said:


> I once rented a good quality torque wrench from a auto parts supplier that had a bogus calibration and quickly snapped an exhaust manifold bolt.
> 
> Renting name brand stuff from pros is no guarantee of quality either.


You would think they would take care to have it checked and calibrated, if they rent it??? I have a friend who is an airline mechanic and has access to a testing machine so I have him test it for me.


----------



## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

yomtnbiker111 said:


> Best bike torque wrenches: Tighten your bolts to the perfect torque
> 
> 
> The right tool for the job is an absolute necessity when it comes to getting torque values right
> ...


^^^^ That review only contained three (3) torque wrenches. I bet those were the three tool advertisers Cycling News had. Lame review.


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

yomtnbiker111 said:


> You would think they would take care to have it checked and calibrated, if they rent it??? I have a friend who is an airline mechanic and has access to a testing machine so I have him test it for me.


I wouldn't. Not from an auto parts store.


----------



## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

yomtnbiker111 said:


> I cant afford Snap On wrenches but I try to at least buy good ones. CDI wrenches are good as are a few Asian made ones.


Wait until you find out who makes CDI wrenches 

_CDI is the torque division of Snap-on_


----------



## TheOtherOne (Jul 27, 2020)

yomtnbiker111 said:


> My bike mechanic for the past 23 years uses a Topeak D Torque.


That's what I have and love it. It was pricey when I got it 1 1/2 years ago but even more now though.


----------



## yomtnbiker111 (Mar 25, 2006)

wschruba said:


> Wait until you find out who makes CDI wrenches
> 
> _CDI is the torque division of Snap-on_


Wow, good deal.


----------

