# Suntour/RST Shocks Suck That Bad?



## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

I am saving up for a next bike, and hope to buy at the end of October. My Budget is max of $850, which means most bikes in my price range the LBS sells have Suntour or RST shocks on them. A lot of people have said these shocks are terrible, and wont' last at all. Anybody that has used one care to comment if they are really that bad? Need to know if I need to budget in some money for a shock upgrade as well.

I am riding a 2006 Iron Horse Warrior Team SE right now, that has a Rock Shox J1 on it, which I believe was Rock Shox entry level fork that year. It's serving me just fine for the kind of weekend warrior rides I do. If that shock is ok, I can't possibly think a Sountour a RST fork would be that bad.


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## bclagge (Aug 31, 2009)

Forks in that range are heavy, fail easily, lack adjustment, lack proper damping and servicing them is difficult, even not worth it.

Knowing what I know now, if I had your budget and barring Craig's List, then I would look for a closeout on last years models. You could probably score a Hardrock in the $500 range. Then I would use the remaining money to buy a decent entry level air fork like a Rockshox Recon Silver, or the 29er equivalent.

IMO, a decent fork is more important than any other component on a HT and I would be willing to trade down everything else to up the fork.

Another possibility for you is, since hard tail technology doesn't go anywhere fast, you could just buy a reasonable front fork for your existing bike and save yourself $500.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

You only have to use up 675 to get a decent bike with a Rockshox XC 28TK fork with adjustable rebound dampening. The Airborne Guardian will get you on the fun technical trails out there.
Trek Mamba or Spec Carve are good but you pay the LBS premium.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Thanks for the input. I am trying to get a 29 inch bike. I think I agree with you though on trading down on other components to spend money on a better fork. As long as I have a good fork in a 29 inch frame, and finally get hydraulic disc brakes on my next bike, I will be happy. Those are the main things I am looking at. The local bike shops around me sell Cannondale, Fuji, and and Specialized. So it would be something like a Cannondale Trail 29er SL 3/4 2013 Fuji Nevada 1.3/1.5, or a Specialized Rockhopper 29.


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## Hilltoppr (Aug 24, 2012)

Is the shock on the Specialized Rockhopper 29 that bad the 2012 model has this Suntour:

SR Suntour XCR 29" (SF11-XCR-DS-26-LO-SP), magnesium lower, 30mm steel stanchions, 1-1/8" alloy steerer, hyd. damping w/ Specialized Spike Valve and alloy LO cartridge, 80mm travel


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Closest Trek dealer is about an hour away. I am trying to buy local. I am aware of companies like Airbourne on the internet I could buy from and simply save by 'cutting out the middle man." Hard decision to make. I want to support my LBS, but I need to look out what's good for my wallet while still getting a good quality bike as well.


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## Striper (Aug 1, 2012)

If you have an REI in your area I just scored a sweet Marin Palisades Trail 29er for $899 on clearance however the sale ends next monday from what they told me. The bike has all SRAM x5/x7 level components and a recon silver air fork.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

No REI or any kind of store like that sadly.


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## Eyeshield25 (Aug 14, 2012)

To be honest with you I think that the shocks work fine the way they are. I have an XCT on my Diamondback Overdrive and it work decently well enough with what I rode on. It's better to have something than nothing at all. The way I see it you should keep it stock and see how you like the bike first, then move on from there. You wouldn't ride a beginner bike in extreme terrain so I don't see why you need an arm and a leg worth of a fork now, would you?


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## wmac (Sep 29, 2010)

Jason: the Suntour could be bad depending on several factors. Then again, it could be just fine. Why do you want a 29er? What's wrong with your current bike? Are you looking to go faster around your local trails? How much faster? What do you think a new bike will help you accomplish?


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

The technical trails are the most fun and the best workout, once you ride them bike paths appropriate for a Suntour fork are mostly too boring. Here's reviews of the Airborne Goblin which has the same frame as the Guardian.
Top Ten 29"er Products of 2011: Airborne Goblin 29
Airborne Goblin 29: Out Of The Box
Airborne Goblin 29: First Impressions
Airborne Goblin 29: Mid-Term
Airborne Goblin 29: Final Review


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## Striper (Aug 1, 2012)

I was going to get the guardian before I happened upon my marin. The guardian is a nice looking bike and the rockshox xc28 generally gets better marks then the suntour. I have to say though just from my perspective I hope their next iteration of the guardian is a little more toned down on the color scheme but that is just personal preference and looks come after to quality and value to me all and all still a nice looking ride.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

OP - it may not be worth replacing your functioning MTB with something in the $850 pricepoint. Specs slip a bit every year, and even if they didn't, would it be that much of an improvement over what you've got?

I don't think that RST and Suntour necessarily perform worse than what you've got, but they weigh about two of it. Why pay money to have a part that does the same thing but weighs more??

And yeah. Flexy forks are awful. Better to have a rigid - at least the wheel goes where I put it.

Hang onto the money. Watch Craig's List. One of my roommates scored a race-ready 26" hardtail from a guy who bought it to race short track, went about twice, and decided he liked his NRS better, for less than your figure. If CL doesn't give you anything, in a month or two, prices on '12 bikes are going to drop like crazy. Some are probably already on closeout. That may not be quite enough to make a big step up, but at least you've got a more real shot. Give your Trek dealer a call and see if they've hit clearance yet. Fishers are a little better about spending more of their budget on the fork, so IMO they start being worthwhile at a little lower pricepoint.

EDIT: For example, the Fisher Mamba lists at about $1000. When it hits clearance, it'll fit your budget and it ships with the RockShox XC32 fork. Not sure if you can get a "real" damper for it, but it should be better than the J1 you've got and any of the OEM forks that RST and Suntour put out.


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## Luclin999 (Jul 9, 2012)

JasonScottCarter said:


> I am saving up for a next bike, and hope to buy at the end of October. My Budget is max of $850, which means most bikes in my price range the LBS sells have Suntour or RST shocks on them. A lot of people have said these shocks are terrible, and wont' last at all. Anybody that has used one care to comment if they are really that bad? Need to know if I need to budget in some money for a shock upgrade as well.


The two bikes that I recently purchased both came with Suntour forks equipped with manual lock out.

From my experience, these forks are fine for street use, dirt and gravel roads and any off-road riding which does not involve drops, climbing, serious downhill riding or any obstacles which would require substantial shock absorption like logs, steps or large rocks to go over.

Basically, anything technical is made more difficult by these forks due to a lack of rebound control which generally means that you bounce back almost immediately from whatever significant objects your front end impacts.

So if all you want to do is ride along gently sloped dirt roads then the Suntour/RST forks are fine. However if you wish to get into singletrack or other technical riding something more substantial is in order.

Personally, I have already purchased new Rock Shox forks for both my Overdrive and Avalanche in order to be able to push them past their current limitations.

Unfortunately you are not planning to make a purchase for another two months which means that most of the sale pricing for 29ers today will not apply then so aside from making suggestions for bikes from places like Airborne or Bikes Direct (who generally have fairly consistent pricing) there isn't a lot that we can do towards steering you into a good deal at the moment.


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## bob13bob (Jun 22, 2009)

not so much the brand, think model matters more. 
Megavalanch won on singlespeed hardtail with suntour fork
https://www.greyville.com/articles/134-ht-rider-with-sr-suntour-suspension-fork-wins-megavalanche
olympics gold womens won on 26" hardtail suntour fork
On Bicycles, and.... what else is there?: More 26-inch hardtail success


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## DimitrisCSD (Jan 16, 2012)

bob13bob said:


> not so much the brand, think model matters more.
> Megavalanch won on singlespeed hardtail with suntour fork
> https://www.greyville.com/articles/134-ht-rider-with-sr-suntour-suspension-fork-wins-megavalanche
> olympics gold womens won on 26" hardtail suntour fork
> On Bicycles, and.... what else is there?: More 26-inch hardtail success


yes but not the $80 range suntour forks... lmao


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

I have been watching Craigslist in my area, however, mostly just filled with Wal-Mart bikes.

My current bike isn't bad for what it is, but I jumped on a friends 29er and I just like the overall fit and feel of it. Of course, it does help with rollover, which would be something I am looking for. A lot of the trails I ride have roots in them. There are a few log obstacles as well asnd a handful of rock gardens (but nothing to crazy). My Rock Shox J1 is handling those things just fine, and it was on the low end back in 2006. It's an 8 speed, which is on the way out in the industry. They don't make high end 8 speed components anymore, have to convert over to 9 or 10 speeds to get better stuff than what I have now. 


I don't' do anything really extreme in my opinion. No major drops or big boulders. I will surely put it to the test before I decide to switch it out.

If I were to upgrade the shock, would a Rock Shox XC 32 be worth the extra money over the 28?

I could maybe stretch my budget to 1,000, but that would have to include a set of Shimano 520/540 pedals or something like that.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

I don't have saddle time on the new line of RockShox XC forks. The XC 32 is reviewed as being comparable to the Tora. Which isn't a bad place to be. The smaller ones aren't supposed to be as good.

I haven't gotten below 155 lb in a couple years and while I'd like to see 145 lb again, I'm having to accept that I need to run more tire pressure in my 2.1s than I used to. It's screwed up the ride, and I have some 2.3" tires on the way. While I can't say, "2.3" tires are awesome, I love mine, get a set," I've had opportunity to demo some 29ers and I have to say, I think that setup of the bike is more important than the wheel size. The most recent one I rode actually was rougher than my 26" hardtail. Too much air in the tires, and I thought I'd been told not to drop pressure to taste. If you can't get your bike to ride smoothly, consider some fatter tires so you can run less pressure. Or, get your head out of your butt and run lower pressure now if you can get away with it. 

I have a 9-speed drivetrain on my MTB and 10 on my road bike. I pay more for chains and cassettes. Given that I can still order a 7-speed cassette from any major catalog, I wouldn't be too worried about ability to get 8-speed maintenance parts. If your shifters die, revisit the issue. Otherwise, buy 8-speed stuff, enjoy how much less money you have to spend at something that you wear out and throw away, and don't sweat it.

I'm not saying that 29ers aren't cool. I'd like my next bike to be a 29er. However, I'd also like my next bike to come out of the box race-ready and not have to screw around with another round of placeholder parts, things that fail at inopportune moments, forks without the fancy dampers I have to admit I'm fond of, etc. For me, $850 is an unhappy-medium pricepoint - they're more expensive than $700 bikes, but you're not getting into a build that you'll keep yet. So what do you get for the extra $150??

I hear you on Craig's List. It didn't get me a 'cross bike back in 2008 and finally I ran out of time and bought a retail one. But it's not like you have a season that's slipping away as you wait for a feasible bike to show up. Save a search as an RSS feed on your home page or whatever and be patient. Phone around to some shops and find out about closeouts and consignment bikes. While I don't think it's enough to make a worthwhile improvement in a new bike, your budget could be good for a pretty nice used bike, and with a little luck, last year's or closeout.

Another thing to think about is a major revision for your current bike. If you think you'd be content with your frame for another five years or so, start by fixing anything that's actually giving you reliability problems on the trail. Then do one or two of the following: fork, wheels, brakes. You'll get a real improvement in handling.

If you're thinking of a new frame, start there. It's likely to effect compatibility of at least some other things.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Thanks for the reply Andrew. Good thoughtful post.

I have already replaced the shifters and brake levers on my current bike for reliability problems. 

I have some more motivation to buy soon, next year me and my wife are going to start having kids. I am afraid if I don't buy soon, I won't be buying at all with the extra money going to them. 

I am a weekend warrior type of rider, I thought $850 would be a good range to be in, but maybe I need to move up the budget to around $1200. Most of those do start coming with the better end Rock Shox and for $1500 you can start getting Fox shocks.

Decisions decisions! I know full suspension is out of my budget, and I like the hardtails for simplicity and budget reasons. Anything you guys can think in the Cannondale, Fuji, Specialized, or Trek line you guys can suggest to save up for? Trying to buy locally to support the bike shops in the area.


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## Wasmachineman NL (Jan 31, 2012)

AndrwSwitch said:


> When it hits clearance, it'll fit your budget and it ships with the RockShox XC32 fork. Not sure if you can get a "real" damper for it, but it should be better than the J1 you've got and any of the OEM forks that RST and Suntour put out.


XC32 can have the Tora Motion control damper, see post #4: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/xc32-moco-damper-800077.html

OT: Suntour isn't that bad, just don't use the XCT/XCM/XCR, those are budget forks and they are not really tough.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Of course they come with those budget forks, mostly the SR Suntour SF13-XCM-RL for the 2013 models.


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## canker (Jul 26, 2007)

I've been wasting time here at work hitting cities within 3 hours of us and haven't found much in the way of 29ers. Most of the 29ers that pop up are really high end or single speeds. 
2012 TREK COBIA (GARY FISHER) 29er MOUNTAIN BIKE
That is about it in your price range and it is overpriced a bit and probably too big.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

if you really want to watch your wallet, you could buy a cheaper bike off the internet and then get a very decent, for about the same price as getting a so-so bike from an lbs, and replacing the fork on it with something in the still less than mid level spectrum.


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## chrisaz82 (May 21, 2012)

My Giant has a SR Suntour XCT V3. It's terrible.

I have to crank the preload way up to keep the thing form bottoming out at 199lbs.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Yeah, that bike in Columbus is a large. I need a medium. 5'10" 160 lbs. I can throw more money if need be I guess, but hopefully can get a deal on something that will last.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

See if you can get some trail time on a large. (And take note of the effective top tube or reach.) You might be surprised. You also might not, but it's worth a look and a lot of riders start out on too small a bike.


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## DoinkMobb (Nov 17, 2007)

JasonScottCarter said:


> My current bike isn't bad for what it is, but I jumped on a friends 29er and I just like the overall fit and feel of it. Of course, it does help with rollover, which would be something I am looking for. A lot of the trails I ride have roots in them.


Root rollover was the deciding factor which pushed me towards a 29er. Unfortunately, I think the bottom of the barrel Suntour XCM 29 whatever fork on my Marlin was not designed to handle repetitive root encounters with aplomb. The adjustability of the fork is minimal at best. Lowering tire pressure didn't do much either.

Any 29er under $1200 (from the big name companies) or so could probably use a fork upgrade right out of the box. I'm at the point where I can tell that the fork and the tires are reducing the fun factor of the bike. If/when I upgrade those components, that'll put me somewhere around $1K total out of pocket.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Yeah, thinking about going with the $800 bike, and then investing in the fork upgrade instead of spending $1200 on a bike with a better fork on it already. Will put me in at about $1000 even as well. Even the $1000 bikes seems to have Suntour or RST forks, but the 2013 Specialized Rockhopper 29 Comp has a Rock Shox 28, and the Giant Talon 0 has a Rock Shox 30 on it. And they are priced at $1000-$1100. 

I'll figure it out once the bike budget is fully there. I appreciate everyone giving their feedback. Some good comments on this thread.


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## DoinkMobb (Nov 17, 2007)

My wife had a mild conniption when I spent "almost $700" on a bike. She agreed to the purchase beforehand, but was still in disbelief that I spent that much. A $1200 bike never would have happened. A cheaper bike with a few under the radar upgrades might produce less fighting in the household. 

I haven't reached the threshold of the brakes, shifters, derailleurs, etc. on my bike, but the fork and tires have to go. A low end bike with a mid range fork and aftermarket tires will probably be good enough for me...for now.


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## ou2mame (Apr 23, 2010)

still, i recommend putting an awesome fork on a good equipped bikes direct or airborne type bike. it'll be cheaper than the lbs and you won't have a dart 2 as an "upgrade"


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## 77charger (Dec 3, 2011)

When i bought my trek 3700 i thought well the suntour forks seem to be decent,But only after a few rides i was thinking they aint that great anymore then rode a friends bike with fox forks then i really felt how bad they were.Mine also developed a good clunk whenever i pulled the front end up fast was getting scary just hearing it.

5months after i bought my bike i got some RS tekon silver airs,These are a big improvement and i really like them they definitely aint close to foxes but i can atleast say they are decent.Done a few rides on them and still like them.500 dollar bike and already put 400 into it carbon bars,forks,new tires and pedals.Good thing i dont see me changing anything soon i like it as is right now.


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## Millfox (Jun 22, 2012)

Depens. Some people are capable doing incredible stuff on suntour forks with no problem. For some Even a Fox for wont do the trick I've personally found higher Suntour forks to be pretty good for XC riding.


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## HawkGX (May 24, 2012)

I'm fortunate that I have Trek, Specialized, Giant and GT dealers in my area. Looked online awhile (BikesDirect, Airborne, etc) but finally bought a Trek Mamba from my LBS. The local purchase just made more sense for my current knowledge and mechanical abilities. Paid around $900 + tax for my 2013 Mamba. It has the Rock Shox XC32 with remote lockout and I've been happy with it in the 1 1/2 months I've had it. I do a decent mix of flowing singletrack and moderate rock/root technical stuff. the XC32 holds up pretty well for that level of ride. I'm not bombing major downhill tracks, or hitting gnarly rock gardens, so I think it's a sufficient fork for me.

If you can score a close out deal on a 2012 model, I think that'd be a great option, especially if you're like me and prefer to support your LBS. And if you can step up to a 2012 Trek Cobia and stay in your price range, all the better!


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## DavyRay (Apr 13, 2012)

HawkGX said:


> I'm fortunate that I have Trek, Specialized, Giant and GT dealers in my area. Looked online awhile (BikesDirect, Airborne, etc) but finally bought a Trek Mamba from my LBS. The local purchase just made more sense for my current knowledge and mechanical abilities. Paid around $900 + tax for my 2013 Mamba. It has the Rock Shox XC32 with remote lockout and I've been happy with it in the 1 1/2 months I've had it. I do a decent mix of flowing singletrack and moderate rock/root technical stuff. the XC32 holds up pretty well for that level of ride. I'm not bombing major downhill tracks, or hitting gnarly rock gardens, so I think it's a sufficient fork for me.
> 
> If you can score a close out deal on a 2012 model, I think that'd be a great option, especially if you're like me and prefer to support your LBS. And if you can step up to a 2012 Trek Cobia and stay in your price range, all the better!


Good comments. Do talk to the people at your local shops. Tell them about your budget and what you are looking for. They might just find you a deal.


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## JasonScottCarter (Mar 23, 2006)

Yeah, appreciate all the comments. Once I have all the money I need saved up, I hope to find some good 2012 stuff in stock a LBS will want to get out the door for with a good deal.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

$200 for a suspension fork worth owning is pretty tough.


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## uzyrmind (Nov 17, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> $200 for a suspension fork worth owning is pretty tough.


I agree......unfortunately :skep: I wish there was a poor mans fork in this biz.


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## LIVZY (Sep 1, 2012)

good post ive got some xcm v3 120mm on a xc hardtail theyre not too good but dont do a bad job when faced with light trail use...wouldnt like to do anything heavy duty on them though!


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## LIVZY (Sep 1, 2012)

p.s. im a fairly lightweight rider too so wouldnt recommend for the larger people out there the springs arent stiff enough for heavier riders


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## CSC (May 23, 2011)

not sure on specs, but eBay seems to have some deals. fox fork 100mm | eBay

I have a XCR on my Rockhopper, and it flexes so much I think I'll bend it (150 lbs + BB7 create a lot of forward force under braking loads)...looking for any reasonable upgrade myself, though I'm a college student, so a lot of the prices out there are outa my range 
EDIT:
Actually, hate to post-jack, but anyone have any ideas for a sub $300 fork upgrade? I'm mostly riding slow technical trails...is used an ok route to go?


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## Cormac (Aug 6, 2011)

Don't get a bike with a RST if you can avoid it. I have one on my entry Cannondale. It's the worst component on the bike. A pogo stick to be sure. If you can stretch your budget to something that'll get you at least an entry air fork I'd recommend that route, as I think has already been mentioned.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Used Reba 2010 Team or SL about 240
New 2012 Reba RL 350 at bluesky
those are top with Manitou Tower Pro
minimum is new RockShox XC 28TK 100mm at bluesky for 99
BlueSkyCycling.com - Rock Shox XC 28 TK Mg 29er Coil Fork


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## mitzikatzi (Sep 9, 2008)

CSC said:


> ...snip..
> Actually, hate to post-jack, but anyone have any ideas for a sub $300 fork upgrade? I'm mostly riding slow technical trails...is used an ok route to go?


A Silver or Gold "Air" Recon can be had for $300. If you look hard enough you will (might) find a Reba for $300. Try some of the online UK bike shops.

Rockshox Recon Gold RL Poploc 2013 oops a "coil"

2012 Rockshox Reba RL Forks 

also look at blueskycycling


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## jafstl38 (Mar 20, 2011)

my RST Gila T-6 last a decent while, came stock on my 06 DB response Sport, but it never felt great on the rebound. It finally snapped where the crown is pressed into the steering tube. I splurged for a 2011 Rockshox Recon Silver TK and I gotta say it feels like a completely different bike! very agile and you can adjust the rebound, just my two cents


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## sbarnhart (Jun 8, 2011)

Maybe you can go used. I got an older marzocchi,new seals and a rebuild for about $150. Smooth as butter.There are some forks on ebay that are somewhat cheap. Check around for rebuild prices. You might be surprised.


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## millargeo (Apr 29, 2012)

So help a stupid noob out. I've been riding my HT 29er for about 6 months now, with a 100mm RST Blaze fork on it. It has a preload adjustment on it, and an adjustable lockout. I weigh 254. If I swapped that fork out for something like a Reba, what difference will I actually feel/notice? Mostly riding New England single track, plenty of small rocks and not so small tree roots and downed trees.


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## Merf (Jul 26, 2012)

I was in the same boat as you, looking for a sold mid-high end entry level bike. Something I could ride pretty hard for a few years, and I think I found a pretty good solution.

Purchased: 2011 GT Karakoram ($550, w/ ship+tax)
BlueSkyCycling.com - GT Karakoram 2.0 Disc 29er Bike

Then upgraded to a RockShox Recon Gold TK ($190 w/ ship from Ebay)
took me a while to find one at that price, and some nifty bidding, but got it none the less!

Put the fork on, and I am not in love with my bike! I even got $90 back selling the RockShox Dart III on Craigslist. So you could have a little $ left over to upgrade some other components (but not really necessary)


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## mvallejo (Sep 20, 2010)

Agree with the people advising to go used. I really dont think Suntour forks are great for anything aside from riding on paths, or very light trails.

I'd recommend a Mamba. Those are really great bikes. If not, I'd try to go for the Talon 29er and get a used Rockshox Fork. It really is a huge, noticeable difference.

The airborne bikes are good bikes, but the good thing about going to an LBS is the warranties and the services they offer. Most shops will give you lifetime service on gears and brakes, a free tune-up, and lifetime frame warranty.


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## CSC (May 23, 2011)

mitzikatzi said:


> A Silver or Gold "Air" Recon can be had for $300. If you look hard enough you will (might) find a Reba for $300. Try some of the online UK bike shops.
> 
> Rockshox Recon Gold RL Poploc 2013 oops a "coil"
> 
> ...


OK...and another post-jack: The spring loaded forks have an oil bath system, correct? When it's cold, they tend to get real stiff...will an air fork maintain plushness despite temp?

EDIT:
how 'bout this guy? 2010 Rock Shox Recon Silver TK Solo Air Fork...decent? Better than the SRSuntour haha.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

CSC said:


> The spring loaded forks have an oil bath system, correct? When it's cold, they tend to get real stiff...will an air fork maintain plushness despite temp?


You can use synthetic in either system. Once in use movement creates heat to get things moving. The cheap hydro systems have a single size orifice instead of variable. They clog up when over used by multiple bumps at speed. That side stops moving-- no suspension travel. Coil only just bounce like a car with no shock absorber.


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## CSC (May 23, 2011)

eb1888 said:


> You can use synthetic in either system. Once in use movement creates heat to get things moving. The cheap hydro systems have a single size orifice instead of variable. They clog up when over used by multiple bumps at speed. That side stops moving-- no suspension travel. Coil only just bounce like a car with no shock absorber.


So the synthetic helps when it's cold? I mean, 20 degrees and windchill, these things are stiff as boards...haha.

I guess the air suspended forks don't experience the same issue, right? Maybe some, but not as bad...I hope.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

millargeo said:


> So help a stupid noob out. I've been riding my HT 29er for about 6 months now, with a 100mm RST Blaze fork on it. It has a preload adjustment on it, and an adjustable lockout. I weigh 254. If I swapped that fork out for something like a Reba, what difference will I actually feel/notice? Mostly riding New England single track, plenty of small rocks and not so small tree roots and downed trees.


You can set the sag based on your weight. The low speed compression response is adjustable for how much the fork bobs when pedaling. Small bump compliance can be varied with negative air. High speed compression can be adjusted and you can work these together to get full travel on your trails. Rebound damping is adjustable to smooth the action out over multiple bumps.
If you go about half way into this fork level view of a Manitou Tower Pro test video and watch the fork action and the handlebar action difference, you can see a good working example.
.Manitou Tower Pro Review - 29er fork test - YouTube


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## wmac (Sep 29, 2010)

millargeo said:


> So help a stupid noob out. I've been riding my HT 29er for about 6 months now, with a 100mm RST Blaze fork on it. It has a preload adjustment on it, and an adjustable lockout. I weigh 254. If I swapped that fork out for something like a Reba, what difference will I actually feel/notice? Mostly riding New England single track, plenty of small rocks and not so small tree roots and downed trees.


This is a fantastic question. The not so fantastic answer is, it is it marginally faster, enables a higher level of control at higher speeds and marginally more comfortable depending on how the spring rate is adjusted.

If none of these things are standing in your way of having a good time, then you are not a good candidate for an upgrade IMNSHO.

Millargeo: I will say it is unlikely you are getting full use of your current fork and I'll be so bold as to say it is unlikely it is set up properly for you. I will also say most people who replace recreational trail use forks were unhappy with them because they did not have them set up properly or were using them in a way in which the fork was not designed. These forks are designed for low grade climbs and descents and well groomed single track, or, to put it another way, beginner to intermediate XC trails.

Your fork comes with a spring inside that is sent from the manufacturer. That spring was spec'd based on an average person's weight. Your weight is above average, so it is likely that when you sit on your bike, the spring compresses a certain amount beyond what it was designed to compress during static use, or "sag rate."mIf you are heavier, it compresses beyond the ideal "sag" rate.

You can use the "preload adjustment" to compensate by compressingste spring to reduce the sag rate, but it can only compensate so much before you are completely compressing that spring during normal use. This will reduce your effective travel from 100mm to something less. The best and only way to fix this is to get a new, different, coil with a higher "spring rate."

The higher end shocks use air pressure to set the "Spring Rate." It gives you the ability to be much more precise when setting your sag rate. Some people like to adjust their sag rate based on the terrain to give them a firm ride whereas others like a plush, soft ride. You should always have enough spring rate so as not to bottom out during normal riding conditions.

High end suspension also gives you the ability to adjust how quickly your wheel "bounces back" after it is compressed. This is where the recreational trail use designed, entry level, forks get the bad reputation for being "Pogo Sticks of Death." With many of the entry level coil forks, if you are traveling at a high rate of speed down a very bumpy slope, your front wheel starts to act sort of like a car tire being rolled down a bumpy hill if you've ever seen that happen. The coil energy gets translated into, to use a scientific term, a boing-boing-boing effect.

This can be and should be avoided by, again, using a scientific term, slowing the F down.

Now, if your goal is to go faster down steep slopes, then a suspension system designed to go fast down bumpy slopes should be retrofitted to your bike. It is VERY important that the distance between the ground and the bottom of your head tube not change unless this is something you desire. The longer the fork travel, the more it will ride like a "chopper" motorcycle - slowing response, making it more stable going down hill. Some higher end forks allow you to adjust the "travel" in the fork, which is the total distance the fork can compress. Some do it with spacers and some do it with a dial.

Some forks have lock out features. Some even have "remote lock out" features. This gives you a switch to hit so you can make the fork completely stiff, which is an advantage when climbing.

An advagreatest a higher end fork is reduced weight compared to an entry-level fork. A highend fork usually weighs more than 30% less than an entry level fork. A lighter bike translates into less effort expended during climbs. Now, you will have to spend some bank to get there, but these usually come with a lockout that has a blow off valve to protect the fork if you forget to unlock it and hit a big bump, the ability to set your spring rate, and rebound rate and some with other adjustments that are more like fine tuning those two adjustments.

For most beginners, they can tell a difference, but don't know why it is a big difference other than they feel like they have more control at higher speeds - which they do. But you've got to ask yourself, how and why is that important to my enjoyment of this activity?


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## Svizzara (Oct 3, 2011)

I have a 2010 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc, and it came with a SR Suntour XCT-V2-MLO. It's a basic 80mm fork with mechanical lockout and pre-load "adjustment".

It's crap! The pre-load knob only turns 180 degrees, and doesn't really do anything. It takes a lot of force to move the fork, and even then it only moves 40mm maximum.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

Svizzara said:


> I have a 2010 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc, and it came with a SR Suntour XCT-V2-MLO. It's a basic 80mm fork with mechanical lockout and pre-load "adjustment".
> 
> It's crap! The pre-load knob only turns 180 degrees, and doesn't really do anything. It takes a lot of force to move the fork, and even then it only moves 40mm maximum.


Fun fact: spring preload is only good for a few pounds of adjustment. For example, on Fox Vanilla forks, the weight range on each spring is about 30-40 lbs. So on the stock spring, if you're 30-40 lbs heavier than average you need a new spring. The preload knob has more to do with keeping the spring from knocking in the fork than it does with customizing the ride on an individual's basis.

The travel you get out of a preload knob of an entry level fork provides so little adjustment that you would be unlikely to notice the change from full to no preload.


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## wmac (Sep 29, 2010)

Svizzara said:


> I have a 2010 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc, and it came with a SR Suntour XCT-V2-MLO. It's a basic 80mm fork with mechanical lockout and pre-load "adjustment".
> 
> It's crap! The pre-load knob only turns 180 degrees, and doesn't really do anything. It takes a lot of force to move the fork, and even then it only moves 40mm maximum.


Did you read my post right above yours?


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