# 27.5+ Stumpjumper 6Fattie



## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

First Look: Specialized Stumpjumper and Rhyme FSR 6Fattie - Mtbr.com

"We got to ride some Stumpjumper 6Fattie prototypes and we even got to do back to back loops with a 29er spec'd with identical components.The first impression is uphill speed is about the same. It's really hardly noticeable as lab measurements at peak climbing power (250-300watts) identify the power loss with the big tires to about 7 watts. Climbing very smooth terrain, the power loss might be more significant. But when climbing very rocky/rooty terrain, the 6Fattie will climb more efficiently since it will have more traction and bump absorbing characteristics.

Descending, there is more traction. Even with these puny knobbed Ground Control tires, traction was available in spades and it was hard to explore the limits and break the tires free. The dilemma here is it is more difficult to receive feedback from this tire with vibrations muted by low tire pressures. So the rider has to retrain and relearn a bit to actually find the limits of these 3.0 tires. But the upside seems much higher and better downhill speeds can be achieved by these setups.

Our other observation riding these bikes is there is much less vibration and chatter on the hands and arms. There is much less hand fatigue and arm pump. On longer descents like the Downieville Shuttle Run or the Top of The World Trail in Whistler, BC, this can be a distinct advantage."

http://reviews.mtbr.com/first-look-specialized-stumpjumper-and-rhyme-fsr-6fattie


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

On a side note I rode my converted Rumblefish with a 2.8 rear, 3.0 front on a night ride and it was super forgiving which upped the fun factor big time.


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

100% positive I have to own this bike


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

is the Stumpy FSR 6Fattie going to be a reality? I rode the Fuse this past weekend and had a rip-roaring good time


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

this bike looks pretty sweet!


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

sgtrobo said:


> is the Stumpy FSR 6Fattie going to be a reality? I rode the Fuse this past weekend and had a rip-roaring good time


It sure is, it was at a demo event that Specialized put on with my local shop a few days ago.

I wasn't able to make it


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

Finally we got all the roadie crap outta mt biking...
...now we gotta have road bikes with different tire and wheel platforms...LOL


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

The release date on this bike is about two months away. It'll prolly be in really short supply.

One weakness though is the rim width is 30mm. It should really be 40 or 50mm but it's probably going through growth/supply issues of Specialized light and/or carbon wheels in the wide edition.


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## TitanofChaos (Jun 13, 2011)

fc said:


> The release date on this bike is about two months away. It'll prolly be in really short supply.
> 
> One weakness though is the rim width is 30mm. It should really be 40 or 50mm but it's probably going through growth/supply issues of Specialized light and/or carbon wheels in the wide edition.


special-ed got lazy, they already had 30mm rovals to sell from the last few years


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## AllMountin' (Nov 23, 2010)

Sweet rig. I like to run my suspension pressure high, based on how I like the bike to jump and hop, and at the expense of small bump compliance. With this setup, the tires can handle small bumps, and with the additional benefit of added traction. Love it.


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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

Are the specs listed on the lesser models anywhere? ive only been able to find the specs on the top model


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## Fat-nor (Oct 1, 2013)

Would there be rom for wider rims?


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

This bike would absolutely be able to run Scrapers & Mulefuts


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

twowheelfunman said:


> This bike would absolutely be able to run Scrapers & Mulefuts


Imagine how great the bike would be with 26x3.8 on 65's!

More traction more bump absorption more float!!!!!!!

Hey wait!!!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Specialized has a 38mm internal width Roval rim coming out. I bet it will be on the SJ 6fattie


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Word from the LBS is the "normal" new Stumpy is selling like hotcakes, and if the normal bike is gonna be hard to get, this one is gonna be super tough to get


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## C.tonus (May 15, 2015)

*27.5 , rim width is 30mm and 6fattie tires on my stumpjumper fsr 2014 is compatible?*



fc said:


> The release date on this bike is about two months away. It'll prolly be in really short supply.
> 
> One weakness though is the rim width is 30mm. It should really be 40 or 50mm but it's probably going through growth/supply issues of Specialized light and/or carbon wheels in the wide edition.


27.5 , rim width is 30mm and 6fattie tires on my stumpjumper fsr 2014 is compatible?
how with is the tires with 17 psi?
thanks


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## softbatch (Aug 19, 2014)

muddy17 said:


> Are the specs listed on the lesser models anywhere? ive only been able to find the specs on the top model


I just found this but that's all the information there is.


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

i don't see that on the screen....is that the US version?


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Makes sense, 3 wheel sizes with 4 build specs essentially identical.


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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

That's not on the US site yet, where you get that?


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## dmars3571 (May 17, 2008)

I found the specs on Ericksbikeshop.com. This is for the Comp model with a price of $3400.

Frame
M5 alloy, Trail 6Fattie Geometry, internal cable routing, 148mm dropouts, sealed cartridge bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, 135mm travel 

Fork
FOX 34 Plus Performance, 150mm travel, 3-position compression adjust, tapered steerer, 51mm offset, 15mm thru-axle 

Rear Shock
FOX FLOAT Performance DPS, AUTOSAG, Rx Trail Tune, Kashima coating, 197x47.6mm 

Shifters
SRAM GX, 11-speed, trigger 

Rear Derailleur
SRAM GX X Horizon, 11-speed, alloy cage 

Brakes
Shimano Deore, hydraulic disc, Ice-Tech resin pads w/ fins 

Brake Levers
Shimano Deore BL-M615, I-spec compatible 

Cranks
Custom SRAM GX-1000, carbon, PF30 spindle, 28T, direct mount 

Cassette
SRAM XG-1150, 11-speed, 10-42t 

Bottom Bracket
SRAM, PF30, OS press-in bearings, sealed cartridge 

Chain
KMC X11L, 11-speed, w/ reusable MissingLink 

Hubs
Specialized, Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15x110mm thru-axle, 24h / Specialized, Hi Lo disc, 4x sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm thru-axle, 28h 

Spokes
DT Swiss Industry, stainless 

Rims
Roval Traverse 650b, alloy, disc, 29mm wide, 24/28h 

Tires
Specialized 6Fattie Purgatory Control, 60TPI, 2Bliss Ready, folding bead, 650bx3.0" / Specialized 6Fattie Ground Control, 60TPI, 2Bliss Ready, folding bead, 650bx3.0" 

Pedals
Nylon, CEN std., w/ toe clips 

Headset
Hella Flush, 1-1/8" and 1-1/2" threadless, Campy style upper w/ 1-1/2" lower, cartridge bearings 

Stem
Specialized XC, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt, 6-degree rise 

Handlebars
Specialized, butted 6000 alloy, 8-degree backsweep, 6-degree upsweep, 10mm rise, 750mm, 31.8mm 

Grips
Specialized Sip Grip, light lock-on, half-waffle, S/M: regular thickness, L/XL: XL thickness 

Saddle
Body Geometry Henge Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm 

Seat Post
Command Post IRcc, cruiser control technology, micro-adjust height adjustable, alien head design, bottom mount cable routing, remote adjust SRL lever, 30.9mm, S: 100mm travel, M/L/XL: 125mm 

Seat Binder
Specialized, 7050 alloy, single bolt, 34.9mm 


*Specifications are subject to change without notice


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## softbatch (Aug 19, 2014)

muddy17 said:


> That's not on the US site yet, where you get that?


The aussy site I think


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## Rightcoaster (Dec 25, 2006)

Thanks for posting specs,
This is a bit of a let down;

Rims
Roval Traverse 650b, alloy, disc, 29mm wide, 24/28h


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

same site but spec for the comp carbon


Features
Specs
Erik's Extras
Reviews
Frame	FACT 9m carbon, Trail 6Fattie Geometry, FACT IS carbon construction, M5 alloy rear triangle, SWAT Door integration, PF30 BB, fully enclosed internal cable routing, 148mm dropouts, sealed cartridge bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, 135mm travel
Fork	FOX 34 Plus Performance, 150mm travel, 3-position compression adjust, tapered steerer, 51mm offset, 15mm thru-axle
Rear Shock	FOX FLOAT Performance DPS, AUTOSAG, Rx Trail Tune, Kashima coating, 197x47.6mm
Shifters	SRAM GX, 11-speed, trigger
Rear Derailleur	SRAM GX X Horizon, 11-speed, alloy cage
Brakes	Shimano Deore, hydraulic disc, Ice-Tech resin pads w/ fins
Brake Levers	Shimano Deore BL-M615, I-spec compatible
Cranks	Custom SRAM GX-1000, carbon, PF30 spindle, 28T, direct mount
Cassette	SRAM XG-1150, 11-speed, 10-42t
Bottom Bracket	SRAM, PF30, OS press-in bearings, sealed cartridge
Chain	KMC X11L, 11-speed, w/ reusable MissingLink
Hubs	Specialized, Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15x110mm thru-axle, 24h / Specialized, Hi Lo disc, 4x sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm thru-axle, 28h
Spokes	DT Swiss Industry, stainless
Rims	Roval Traverse 650b, alloy, disc, 29mm wide, 24/28h
Tires	Specialized 6Fattie Purgatory Control, 60TPI, 2Bliss Ready, folding bead, 650bx3.0" / Specialized 6Fattie Ground Control, 60TPI, 2Bliss Ready, folding bead, 650bx3.0"
Pedals	Nylon, CEN std., w/ toe clips
Headset	Hella Flush, 1-1/8" and 1-1/2" threadless, Campy style upper w/ 1-1/2" lower, cartridge bearings
Stem	Specialized XC, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt, 6-degree rise
Handlebars	Specialized, butted 6000 alloy, 8-degree backsweep, 6-degree upsweep, 10mm rise, 750mm, 31.8mm
Grips	Specialized Sip Grip, light lock-on, half-waffle, S/M: regular thickness, L/XL: XL thickness
Saddle	Body Geometry Henge Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm
Seat Post	Command Post IRcc, cruiser control technology, micro-adjust height adjustable, alien head design, bottom mount cable routing, remote adjust SRL lever, 30.9mm, S: 100mm travel, M/L/XL: 125mm
Seat Binder	Specialized, 7050 alloy, single bolt, 34.9mm


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

so 3" tires on standard rims? that's idiotic.


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Yep, they need to spec it with 40-50mm rims and 3.5 inch tires to have it make sense and really kick ass!


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

the Expert Fuse has WTB Scraper i45s, the Pro Fuse has Roval 38mm, at the very least, stock the Stumpy 650bFatties with the 38mm's

I mean, no change in wheel width for a mid-fat bike? That's just senseless.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

I love that 29mm internal width is now standard.

Remember when the original Flow and Frequency i23 were OMG wide?  (And the Flow EX and i25 were a DH rim?)


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

06HokieMTB said:


> I love that 29mm internal width is now standard.
> 
> Remember when the original Flow and Frequency i23 were OMG wide?  (And the Flow EX and i25 were a DH rim?)


standard on a normal bike? agreed 100%

standard on a fattie? No.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

Meh. I have 35mm rims on my regular FSR Stumpjumper. 

Just kidding. This is pretty cool. It does need wider rims though.


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## 06HokieMTB (Apr 25, 2011)

NYrr496 said:


> It does need wider rims though.


I'm sure the Big S is just cleaning out inventory/using what they have at the moment.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Specialized is great if you want to pay $3,500 for a bike that specs out like a $1,500 bike from anyone else. Their CEO must have a beach home in 7 countries.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> Specialized is great if you want to pay $3,500 for a bike that specs out like a $1,500 bike from anyone else. Their CEO must have a beach home in 7 countries.


Specialized Bicycle Components

Feel free to show the rest of us the $1500 carbon full suspension bike that is equipped like the Stumpjumper. Thanks in advance.


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## TracksFromHell (Jul 9, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> Specialized is great if you want to pay $3,500 for a bike that specs out like a $1,500 bike from anyone else. Their CEO must have a beach home in 7 countries.


More like 10 countries. But then that $3,500 bike will need $4,000 of aftermarket parts to come equipped as nicely as a stock Specialized.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

*eating popcorn*


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## TracksFromHell (Jul 9, 2014)

We've been trolled 
But that 27.5 with the super-max cargo door looks like the bees knees.


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## dmars3571 (May 17, 2008)

Cody01, what other brands of purpose built 27.5+ full suspension bikes are out there that you are comparing to? I would love to see one for $1500.


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## NYrr496 (Sep 10, 2008)

06HokieMTB said:


> I'm sure the Big S is just cleaning out inventory/using what they have at the moment.


Haha... True.


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## D_Man (Jan 7, 2004)

Cody01 said:


> Specialized is great if you want to pay $3,500 for a bike that specs out like a $1,500 bike from anyone else. Their CEO must have a beach home in 7 countries.


Well, it is at least fair to say that at 4k, the new SJ 29er frame only option is about 1k more than frames from ibis, pivot, etc. Yes that includes a dropper, but they are still high. Or maybe they think we are?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Your also looking at the s-works frame, which is the best of the best material. If you look at the expert frame, which I'd say is more on par with other brands frames, the price is right there with others. You also get a headset, dropper, seat post collar, extra frame protection and misc. parts. Most other companies dont do that. 

A while back I bought an Expert Evo frame and a buddy bought a SC Bronson carbon frame. We paid the same price, but then he had to spend $300 for a dropper, $100 for a headset, $30 for a seat clamp and $20 for a roll of helicopter tape.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

D_Man said:


> Well, it is at least fair to say that at 4k, the new SJ 29er frame only option is about 1k more than frames from ibis, pivot, etc. Yes that includes a dropper, but they are still high. Or maybe they think we are?


That's the S-Works frame.

the standard SJ 29er and 650b carbon frames are $3000. That includes the dropper post.

the Ibis Mojo HD3 frame with dropper post is $3265.
the Niner RIP9 RDO frame with no dropper is $2900.
the Yeti SB5c frame onlywith no dropper is $3400 (add $350 for dropper)
Santa Cruz Bronson or Tallboy LT frames (no dropper) are $2900

notice a pattern?

Not only are you both incorrect in stating that the SJs are overpriced in comparison to the competition, the exact OPPOSITE is true. They are just about the least expensive out there. If someone has the time, please feel free to check up the cost of Trek carbon full suspension MTB frames, and any other brands such as Giant, Pivot, etc.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Never seen that one. Walked into my LBS, seen a SJ with AL frame and ultra elcheapo components for $3,000. That's my beef. I've seen many bikes in the $2,500 range that just knock it out of that park compared to the one I saw at my LBS for the money. Yes the bike linked is much more inline for the money. Maybe my local prices are just higher.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> Never seen that one. Walked into my LBS, seen a SJ with AL frame and ultra elcheapo components for $3,000. That's my beef. I've seen many bikes in the $2,500 range that just knock it out of that park compared to the one I saw at my LBS for the money. Yes the bike linked is much more inline for the money. Maybe my local prices are just higher.


that's a possibility. I wonder if regional prices are changed, because the SJs are consistently, "component for component", absolutely better priced than anything from Giant, Kona, SC, Yeti (obviously), Pivot (obviously), Cannondale, and Trek. I was fairly crazy and obsessive around October-November-December last year, basically going to every bike shop and riding every bike, and the SJ Comp FSR was, component-wise, far superior at the price point. Perhaps that's where I live? At the $2500 range, the SJ Comp (the one I got) was definitelys uperior to anything being offered at the same price range. Most of them offered Deore (at best) components, with Sektor shocks at the $2500 range.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Cody01 said:


> Never seen that one. Walked into my LBS, seen a SJ with AL frame and ultra elcheapo components for $3,000. That's my beef. *I've seen many bikes in the $2,500 range that just knock it out of that park compared to the one I saw at my LBS for the money. *Yes the bike linked is much more inline for the money. Maybe my local prices are just higher.


$2900, Stumpjumper FSR Comp 650b (includes dropper)
Specialized Bicycle Components

$2600, Giant Trance 24.5 2 (no dropper)
Trance 27.5 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States

$2940, Trek Remedy 7 (no dropper)
Remedy 7 27.5 - Trek Bicycle

$3200, Santa Cruz Bronson R (no dropper)
Santa Cruz Bronson

All these are very aligned for specs and price. Not everything is the same, but very close in quality and performance.

The Giant is cheapest, but lacks a dropper that will cost $250-400. That would make it equal to the Spesh.

Trek is next in line at the same price, but missing a dropper, making it more expensive.

The Santa Cruz is even worse for the same issue.

The exclusion of a dropper may seem like a minor issue, but it will take the new owner 10-20% above the price of the bike to add one. Not a small difference.

Can you provide an example that proves your point about Spesh being so overpriced?


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Chader09 said:


> Can you provide an example that proves your point about Spesh being so overpriced?


i've seen these "overpriced" claims so often about Specialized, yet I've never really seen it in what I look at, either online or at the LBS, and I've never seen anyone back up what they see unless they are comparing last year's *bike brand* to this year's SJ


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## D_Man (Jan 7, 2004)

sgtrobo said:


> That's the S-Works frame.
> 
> the standard SJ 29er and 650b carbon frames are $3000. That includes the dropper post.
> 
> ...


The standard SJ 29er at $3000 has an aluminum rear end. All of your comparo frames are full carbon. To get a full carbon specialized, it's 4k. How does that make them about the least expensive out there?


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Take a look at the YT Capra or some of the other Euro mail order bikes. Their specs are the best.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Cody01 said:


> Take a look at the YT Capra or some of the other Euro mail order bikes. Their specs are the best.


LOL, playing the YT/Canyon card.

Nice try, but consumer direct sales model is very different than supporting an Independent Bicycle Dealer network like all the other brands that were listed as references.

Using brands like YT is not a balanced comparison. Not to mention that the Capra is more of a competitor for the Enduro/Slash/etc. bikes rather than the Stumpy.

Just admit your "I've seen many bikes..." statement was a exaggerated (if not entirely wrong) and we can move on


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I never agreed that it had to be store front only bikes. That seems to be a rule you made up. It's 2015 mail order bikes are a reality.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Cody01 said:


> I never agreed that it had to be store front only bikes. That seems to be a rule you made up. It's 2015 mail order bikes are a reality.


That's fine then. Include all mail order stuff.

All that proves is that Specialized, Giant, Trek, Cannondale, Santa Cruz, etc. are ALL more expensive than your super-amazing-web-deals. This was confirmed by the examples above.

Therefore, singling out Specialized as being too expensive is obvious bias.


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

sgtrobo said:


> i've seen these "overpriced" claims so often about Specialized, yet I've never really seen it in what I look at, either online or at the LBS, and I've never seen anyone back up what they see unless they are comparing last year's *bike brand* to this year's SJ


Yup, obvious haters with no leg to stand on. I have dealt with it on the Trek side as well and shot down the claims with actual examples vs their "I saw a great deal" but can't provide a real example. A sale at their local shop vs MSRP is not apples-to-apples.

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to sgtrobo again."


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Aw yeah. I just spent three days with it at Downieville. Report coming!!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Ride report please! (Tired of reading about price bickering)


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

Sweet lunch box!


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## #mtnbykr (Jun 6, 2014)

bad andy said:


> Ride report please! (Tired of reading about price bickering)


X2 Really ruins a thread.....


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## dirt-nerd (Aug 12, 2009)

+++++ on the report plz!!!!


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

HOLY CrAp that lil frame storage thingy is ghey.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Can this bike be expected any time soon?


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## AllMountin' (Nov 23, 2010)

newmarketrog said:


> HOLY CrAp that lil frame storage thingy is ghey.


u jus jelly bruh


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## Bigwheel (Jan 12, 2004)

Seriously Francis, goggles? I can hardly stand to wear those things in the wintertime!


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Wonder how many BEER filled plastic bottles could go in the tube?? Scratch that...beer would explode after that ride!


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## doradora12 (Jun 14, 2015)

There isn't any information about stumpy 6fattie yet in Korea.

Is it ok if I post these photos and article translated into Korean on my blog? blog.naver.com/doradora12

I'll wait your answer. Thanks.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

Bigwheel said:


> Seriously Francis, goggles? I can hardly stand to wear those things in the wintertime!


I don't wear em. I just put them on my helmet for the photogs.


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## muddy17 (Aug 1, 2012)

What you think of the bike FC?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

you cant be #enduro without goggles!


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

My dealer says these won't be out until at least August maybe later. Damn, I want now.


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

We were told June... looks like NOT!


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

FC....what model is the second STJ? Black with clear coat one.


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

rushman3 said:


> FC....what model is the second STJ? Black with clear coat one.


That is the S-works one. Black and gold. Bling bling to the zing zing with carbon wheels.

I should have all the pro photos by today so I'll have the review up tomorrow. All I can say is I'm recovering from a broken hand (6 weeks) and the bike kept me safe and comfy at the Downieville.

fc


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I called Specialized, they told me July-August shipping on these. SO late July I'm guessing. Several + bikes are coming out about then but the is the only with 34mm forks x 150mm travel and that's big to me. [email protected] 100mm of fork travel.


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Cody01 said:


> I called Specialized, they told me July-August shipping on these. SO late July I'm guessing. Several + bikes are coming out about then but the is the only with 34mm forks x 150mm travel and that's big to me. [email protected] 100mm of fork travel.


Don't rule out the Magnum...140 mil on the plus and 110 boost and 34 mil tubes!

Sea Otter 2015 | The Manitou Magnum Pro for plus-size tyres | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

2 Days Ago #70
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Quote Originally Posted by rushman3 View Post
FC....what model is the second STJ? Black with clear coat one.
That is the S-works one. Black and gold. Bling bling to the zing zing with carbon wheels.

I should have all the pro photos by today so I'll have the review up tomorrow. All I can say is I'm recovering from a broken hand (6 weeks) and the bike kept me safe and comfy at the Downieville.


the review is LATE


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Relax, good grief.
How about this to tide you over?
First Ride / First Look: Specialized Stumpjumper S-Works FSR 6Fattie


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Any bouncy feeling on those 3inch tires? I noticed Scott bikes have been sporting 2.8 tires. Seems like a better alternative.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Can you Specialized haters keep your ******** out of this thread please, I keep an eye on it for actual useable info to decide if I want to pull the trigger on one, and you're just filling it with drivel.


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## doradora12 (Jun 14, 2015)

I'd like to ride it anyway. (A person who wants to share this review at my blog)


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

FC - how bout the 6fattie review? I am thinking about adding a trail bike to go with my epic and am curious about the weight difference between the 29er and the 6fattie as well as a comparison


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I can't imagine weight is that drastic. Maybe 1/2 pound more at the very most. The benefits gained from the traction and handling far out way the tiny bit of weight gain.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Anyone know approximately when this bike is supposed to hit the bike shops?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

prj71 said:


> Anyone know approximately when this bike is supposed to hit the bike shops?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


I was just at my LBS, there is a dealer event coming up in a few weeks and they'll have ETA's then.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

This isn't on the consumer site yet but your LBS can give you specs now on the 6Fattie FSR's. Here are the spec sheets for the two I am interested in. Methinks that is a typo where it says the GX1000 crank is carbon on the Comp.

Click on the pictures and you can zoom in. If you are on a desktop click, than click again, than it zooms in:


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Got spec sheets with prices on the aluminum frame versions? 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Nope, sorry. Just had my LBS print what I was interested in so I could ponder what I want. Your Specialized retailer can show you this stuff though on their dealer site.


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

I don't see a big difference in specs for the difference in price...am i missing something?


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## chewsta (Dec 22, 2009)

XJaredX said:


> This isn't on the consumer site yet but your LBS can give you specs now on the 6Fattie FSR's. Here are the spec sheets for the two I am interested in. Methinks that is a typo where it says the GX1000 crank is carbon on the Comp.
> 
> Click on the pictures and you can zoom in. If you are on a desktop click, than click again, than it zooms in:


I'm also thinking there is a typo for the rear shock spec as well. I've never known a Performance level Fox shock to have the kashima coating. I could be wrong and the Comp Carbon will come with a kashima coated shock.


----------



## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

My LBS owner thinks it's cuz the X1 stuff is so expensive compared to the GX stuff. I have no idea what the difference is in the forks, and perhaps the carbon crank on the Expert adds to it too (as I think that's a typo for "carbon" on the Comp). Oh, and the XT brakes.

But yeah, I'm a perfectly happy camper with GX level stuff, and Deore brakes. I can add a carbon crank later if I want to. That's what I did with my Fatboy, I went on a carbon diet later on when I had the cash, rims/crank/bars.

My only thing is I'd like to see what the real differences are with the front and rear shocks...


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

so not only are the "Fatty" SJs burdened with a pretty mediocre 29mm width rim, they are 28/24h. Yep, not for clyde consumption....


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

sgtrobo said:


> so not only are the "Fatty" SJs burdened with a pretty mediocre 29mm width rim, they are 28/24h. Yep, not for clyde consumption....


I'm trusting in their decision to go with 29mm width.

Your stumpy in your sig, is that more than 28h? Assuming you meant that you were a Clyde.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

XJaredX said:


> I'm trusting in their decision to go with 29mm width.


yeah it's just weird because they didn't go with 29mm for their Fuse



XJaredX said:


> Your stumpy in your sig, is that more than 28h? Assuming you meant that you were a Clyde.


32h, and yeah, i'm about 250#


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

sgtrobo said:


> yeah it's just weird because they didn't go with 29mm for their Fuse
> 
> 32h, and yeah, i'm about 250#


Oh gotcha. I didn't know that about the Fuse.

I wonder if carbon rims are stronger enough to need less spokes. I am about 200 before gear, i've used Roval Controls with no issues, unsure of spoke count though


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## Francis Cebedo (Aug 1, 1996)

donn12 said:


> FC - how bout the 6fattie review? I am thinking about adding a trail bike to go with my epic and am curious about the weight difference between the 29er and the 6fattie as well as a comparison


Sorry, got tied up. Bound and duct taped. Had to go to Europe, yay. And then Socal, boo!

This Friday! My bottom line is that it is a stone-cold awesome bike. The rims are no good at 30mm. They should be 40-50mm for sure. The bike is a bit low for some tastes as it's standard bb height and then the tires have 15-20mm of sag.

fc


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## NH Mtbiker (Nov 6, 2004)

Yay


fc said:


> Sorry, got tied up. Bound and duct taped. Had to go to Europe, yay. And then Socal, boo!
> 
> This Friday! My bottom line is that it is a stone-cold awesome bike. The rims are no good at 30mm. They should be 40-50mm for sure. The bike is a bit low for some tastes as it's standard bb height and then the tires have 15-20mm of sag.
> 
> fc


Thnx fc! Yeah bigger rims indeed...and higher bb for us Northern dudes would be nice. Waiting for Cannondale to debut with a beefy Lefty but this Jumper is nice!


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Went to local Spesh dealer in Perth Oz to get a tube and suprised to see
the Alu versions of the Stumpies both full squish and hard tail, on the floor.
They rode the hard tail last weekend and were raving about it. The hard tail had wider not Spesh rims, but cant remember the brand


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

fc said:


> Sorry, got tied up. Bound and duct taped. Had to go to Europe, yay. And then Socal, boo!
> 
> This Friday! My bottom line is that it is a stone-cold awesome bike. The rims are no good at 30mm. They should be 40-50mm for sure. The bike is a bit low for some tastes as it's standard bb height and then the tires have 15-20mm of sag.
> 
> fc


What do you mean by standard bb height? Is it adjustable? My only concern ordering the S-Works version of this bike is the low BB. I had a Stumpy Evo a few years ago and it seemed really low. Pedal strikes all the time.


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Twimby said:


> Went to local Spesh dealer in Perth Oz to get a tube and suprised to see
> the Alu versions of the Stumpies both full squish and hard tail, on the floor.
> They rode the hard tail last weekend and were raving about it. The hard tail had wider not Spesh rims, but cant remember the brand


You are probably thinking of the Fuse, which has WTB Scraper rims.
For whatever reason the Scrapers never made it onto the Stumpy 6Fattie.
I saw they had a proto set of carbon Roval that were much wider, but maybe they are behind in production, so therefore early SJ 6Fatties will get shorted on rims with the narrow current production stuff. Production and Release deadlines did not mesh.

I just rode the Fuse a few days ago and upon initial turn-in the extra front grip actually sucks the tire into turning in harder almost over steering. Was kind of bizarre to me at first. I got kind of used to it after some time on the bike, then was just trying to see how low I could get the bike in corners and had a blast trying to kill speed with drifts.
The handling will be different on the SJ 6Fattie, I'm sure, but I'd imagine as hard as I was trying to lean the Fuse on those Scrapers, the SJ 6Fattie probably would have rolled tires and blubber squirmed much more...


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

lancelot said:


> What do you mean by standard bb height? Is it adjustable? My only concern ordering the S-Works version of this bike is the low BB. I had a Stumpy Evo a few years ago and it seemed really low. Pedal strikes all the time.


He means that the BB height is what it would be on a standard bike, but since the tires are plus size you run them at lower pressures and they sag more when you are on the bike.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Spec lists are up, different from what I originally posted:

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

They need to fix the pricing on the frame only option. It's the same price as the comp carbon, but identical frames. 

If I was building up a 29er I'd get the 6fattie frame for the the 148 rear.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Not that I can afford it anyway, but I'd like to see the orange option of the 650/29er Experts offered for the 6fattie too.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

BikeSATORI said:


> I just rode the Fuse a few days ago and upon initial turn-in the extra front grip actually sucks the tire into turning in harder almost over steering. Was kind of bizarre to me at first. I got kind of used to it after some time on the bike, then was just trying to see how low I could get the bike in corners and had a blast trying to kill speed with drifts.
> The handling will be different on the SJ 6Fattie, I'm sure, but I'd imagine as hard as I was trying to lean the Fuse on those Scrapers, the SJ 6Fattie probably would have rolled tires and blubber squirmed much more...


yeah, this is exactly what I experienced. I had to lower tire pressure a bit, then it became a challenge just to see how hard I could corner. I've never been so horizontal (and comfortable) through turns, the width on those WTB Scraper 45s is nuts. I loved it. Really wish the SJ6F would come out with those wider rims. ah well.


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## donn12 (Mar 25, 2012)

FC - where is your review?


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Maybe he fell under an embargo and can't post until the dealer event concludes this week?


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## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

After reading through this entire thread I can't tell if people are actually excited about this bike. Going fat seems to be the entire point of this bike and it seems like a lot of people are questioning the rim and tire width as not quite fat enough?

Been mulling over waiting for the SJ 6Fattie or just getting RM Sherpa even though I don't really plan to do much bikepacking.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

tgarson said:


> After reading through this entire thread I can't tell if people are actually excited about this bike. Going fat seems to be the entire point of this bike and it seems like a lot of people are questioning the rim and tire width as not quite fat enough?
> 
> Been mulling over waiting for the SJ 6Fattie or just getting RM Sherpa even though I don't really plan to do much bikepacking.


i was EXTREMELY excited about this bike until I realized Specialized inexplicably had no intention of actually making a true + bike, they are only using a + tire with their standard rim width. This makes absolutely no sense.

as of right now, Cannondale, Rocky Mountain, and Scott are also making full suspension + sized bikes, and each one seems to be using an appropriate rim width. The Sherpa actually uses the same 45mm WTB Scraper rims that the mid-range Fuse (Specy's hardtail 650bFattie) uses, which are some really good rims in my experience.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

i think that people are being overly anal about rim width here. anything over 30 is fine, imo.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

newmarketrog said:


> i think that people are being overly anal about rim width here. anything over 30 is fine, imo.


anything over 30 might be fine, although having ridden a few of the plus bikes, i'm going to say that wider rims (at least, wider up to 45mm) are definitely better.

that said, Specialized isn't using "anything over 30". They're using 45mm for the Fuse, yet with the SJ-FSR6Fattie, they're using 29mm with the same tire. That produces ENTIRELY different characteristics and I think Specialized is going to find out the hard way when their 6Fattie SJ FSRs don't sell well. It's disappointing because the Fuse blew me out of the water and I was really excited about the SJFSR6Fattie because I love my SJ FSR and I loved the Fuse. I figured (hoped) "best of both worlds"

*shrugs*


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## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

I come from a road background and just getting more into mountain so I'm pretty clueless about most of this stuff, what are the big negative effects of running a wider tire on a narrower rim? I'm also assuming you could just spend the $250 to get a set of Scraper 45's if you really wanted? 

Not that I'm defending Specialized, sucks to shell out for a bike and immediately need to swap something out but I'm assuming you could if you wanted to.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Swap to wider wheels then. I personally would want to swap to some 40mm wide derby rims.


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## keifla123 (Mar 7, 2013)

sgtrobo said:


> That produces ENTIRELY different characteristics and I think Specialized is going to find out the hard way when their 6Fattie SJ FSRs don't sell well.*


I was at my local shop today and it seems like most of the first batch of Comp Carbon level 6Fatties are already pre-sold. I rode the standard 27.5 and the 29er version and asked about when the fattie would be in but it seems they are selling pretty well without even getting to shops yet. I could have gotten my name on one if I wanted to put a deposit down but I am not serious about a new bike at this time and was really just curious as to how the bike rides.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I have a Comp Carbon on order for spring 2016. 

I'm not craaaazy about some of the parts spec, like I dunno why they don't give you the Kashima fork til the stupid expensive trim level (I can live without Kashima) and I'm puzzled about the rim width, but no worries cuz I'll be swapping in a carbon wheelset asap. I assume that since they went wider on the Fuse that there was a very specific reason for using 30's on the SJ.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

tgarson said:


> I come from a road background and just getting more into mountain so I'm pretty clueless about most of this stuff, what are the big negative effects of running a wider tire on a narrower rim? I'm also assuming you could just spend the $250 to get a set of Scraper 45's if you really wanted?
> 
> Not that I'm defending Specialized, sucks to shell out for a bike and immediately need to swap something out but I'm assuming you could if you wanted to.


Unfortunately, it's not a $250 swap. You have to buy the rims, which are like $250, and then have a wheelbuilder rebuild the wheels. You will probably need new spokes as well. You are looking at more like $500 to get wider rims. And then I'm not sure how much tire clearance they built into the frame, the widest tires may not fit when mounted to wider rims.

The advantages of the wider rims are slightly wider tires, more volume which lets you run lower tire pressure for added comfort and grip, and less chance of the tire rolling or burping during cornering. Disadvantages? They are a little heavier.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

if you run toobz, wider rim = more pinch flats vs a narrower rim with same tire. wider rim @ lower pressures toobless=more rim strikes than with a narrower rim with same tire.

so that whole wider rim means you can run lower pressures is bunk statement.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Who runs tubes anymore? 

I was at my LBS last night and it looks like no 6Fattie until September, and they will be very limited. I dont think the exact specs are really cemented in either. It wouldnt shock me to see the 6fatties all coming with the Traverse 38mm wide rims. 

Last weekend my buddies and I went to the lift serviced bike park, and two of them were running the Traverse Fattie SLs on their bikes. The rims took some hard hits and there were no issues at all. I've beat the hell out of my 2013 Traverse SL carbon wheels and I've never had to true them at all and thats with 2.5 years and 1500+ miles of riding.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

I still run toobz! Riding racing and winning for decades yo!

You wanna beat toobless crowd while running toobz? Pedal harder than them and use less brake

Simple really.


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## bikeny (Feb 26, 2004)

newmarketrog said:


> I still run toobz! Riding racing and winning for decades yo!
> 
> You wanna beat toobless crowd while running toobz? Pedal harder than them and use less brake
> 
> Simple really.


Sure it can be done, but why? There is no reason not to go tubeless these days, and PLENTY of reasons why you should go tubeless!

Just saying!


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Let's not start a Tube vs Tubeless sidetrack.

Choose what works for you and leave the others alone.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

S


bikeny said:


> Sure it can be done, but why? There is no reason not to go tubeless these days, and PLENTY of reasons why you should go tubeless!
> 
> Just saying!


If it ain't broke don't fix it and all that. There are ZERO reasons why I should go tubeless. I have run tubeless in the past on a trek fuel carbon when I was a trek dealer. it came that way so I ran it that way. Didn't blow my hair back enough to stick with tubeless.

700 x 40-45c tubes in my 29ers cuz their a fair bit lighter than 29er tubes, less expensive, and will fill a 2.3. I run mid-upper 20's and never pinch flat. lower pressure than that feels dogish to me.

Just sayin


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Trying to un-derail this thread, I will say that I asked my LBS to look into WHY THE CARBON FRAME-ONLY OPTION IS $4500


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

We figured that out yesterday. It comes with the Carbon Traverse SL wheels too in the "boost" size.


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## newmarketrog (Sep 26, 2008)

Chader09 said:


> Let's not start a Tube vs Tubeless sidetrack.
> 
> Choose what works for you and leave the others alone.


this thread has gotten pretty retahdid anyway. run the frickin rims that come on the bike till they die, then koolaid yer way into the next latest greatest.

if the wheels that come on make you feel inferior or less of a rider then buy just the frame and build up the bike as you wish.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Mr. Lynch said:


> We figured that out yesterday. It comes with the Carbon Traverse SL wheels too in the "boost" size.


Ohhhh, I just looked back 2 days and didn't see mention of this


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

So... When do we get to see all of the reviews and press releases from the dealer event at STCP? There were like 200+ 2016 bikes there and many vendors, yet mum's the word on the Stumpjumper FSR 6fattie.

Come on, FC. Specialized won't notice you posting a review in here 

At least tell us when the gag order will be lifted.

I did see that all of the 6fatties at STCP came with ground control tires front and rear. This bike begs for the Purgatory 3" up front. Weight weenies can turn a blind eye for us traction-lovers.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

MisterClean said:


> So... When do we get to see all of the reviews and press releases from the dealer event at STCP? There were like 200+ 2016 bikes there and many vendors, yet mum's the word on the Stumpjumper FSR 6fattie.
> 
> Come on, FC. Specialized won't notice you posting a review in here
> 
> ...


Some of the models are shipping now so we can do our own reviews soon. Hoping to be riding mine a week from today.


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

I love the fat tires, but from checking the specs, these things are generally bigger, longer, and heavier than a 29er. The wheelbase is longer than a 29er, and the front triangle is halfway between 650 and 29. The chainstays are the same as a 29er.

Sounds like I will be building a 26+.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

MudSnow said:


> I love the fat tires, but from checking the specs, these things are generally bigger, longer, and heavier than a 29er. The wheelbase is longer than a 29er, and the front triangle is halfway between 650 and 29. The chainstays are the same as a 29er.
> 
> Sounds like I will be building a 26+.


Wait what? It's the same front triangle as a normal Stumpy 29. The difference in wheelbase is due to the offset of the forks.

If it has roughly the same rolling diameter as a 29, why would you expect to have a shorter wheelbase bike?

If anything, go ask Fox why they did that offset on the fork.

I'm fine with how short the rear end is, and I welcome the wheelbase for descending.

Maybe ride one when you're able before writing it off based on specs?


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

XJaredX said:


> Wait what? It's the same front triangle as a normal Stumpy 29.


Not according to Specialized's website, it's not. The triangle is about halfway between 650 and 29.



XJaredX said:


> If it has roughly the same rolling diameter as a 29, why would you expect to have a shorter wheelbase bike?
> ...
> Maybe ride one when you're able before writing it off based on specs?


I don't like 29ers, so why try something even bigger and heavier? I have to pedal it UP the mountain before I descend.


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## forgiven_nick (Nov 7, 2006)

Just got a set of the tires spec'd for this bike today. Look for a review soon on www.ridealongside.wordpress.com


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

MudSnow said:


> Not according to Specialized's website, it's not. The triangle is about halfway between 650 and 29.
> 
> I don't like 29ers, so why try something even bigger and heavier? I have to pedal it UP the mountain before I descend.


Lol wut, I would love to meet the person who can discern a weight difference from a few millimeters of frame material.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

From the otherwise useless free copy of Bicycling magazine I got in the mail today:

"The company says that the suspension on the Stumpy allows the rider to run slightly higher pressures than on hardtails and thus have less of a need for a wider rim." 

The reviewer said it was "a good call, as acceleration and handling felt similar to a traditional 29er." 

I dunno, i guess I shall find out come springtime


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## MudSnow (Jun 30, 2013)

It's the tires that are going to be a lot heavier.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

970g tires according to flow mountain bike dot com vs 755g for a 2.3 Butcher. Is that a lot?


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

perfectbike said:


> 970g tires according to flow mountain bike dot com vs 755g for a 2.3 Butcher. Is that a lot?


I'd say it's pretty ok. On my fatbike in the summer I run 3.8" 45Nrth VanHelgas and they come in around 1350g or so.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

XJaredX said:


> From the otherwise useless free copy of Bicycling magazine I got in the mail today:
> 
> "The company says that the suspension on the Stumpy allows the rider to run slightly higher pressures than on hardtails and thus have less of a need for a wider rim."
> 
> ...


So why not buy a lighter "traditional 29er?"


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

richde said:


> So why not buy a lighter "traditional 29er?"


60% better traction? They just were pointing out that the weight difference is insignificant


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

XJaredX said:


> 60% better traction? They just were pointing out that the weight difference is insignificant


That would be in comparison between a 27.5x3.0 at the proper lower pressures on an actual + sized rim and a "traditional 29'er?"

One ride on a plus bike will tell you that low pressure is absolutely critical to increased traction.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I assume between a normal stumpy and the 6fattie. I feel like I'm in agreement with you on this, I'm not sure what you're getting at.

My point is that MudSnow's pooh-poohing the geometry and weight based on paper might be a bit premature. I dunno, I have no horse in this race. I have one on order for Spring, if between now and then the reviews say it sucks donkey balls, I'll consider a different bike.


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

XJaredX said:


> I assume between a normal stumpy and the 6fattie. I feel like I'm in agreement with you on this, I'm not sure what you're getting at.
> 
> My point is that MudSnow's pooh-poohing the geometry and weight based on paper might be a bit premature. I dunno, I have no horse in this race. I have one on order for Spring, if between now and then the reviews say it sucks donkey balls, I'll consider a different bike.


I agree with most of your earlier points. The weight is negligible, and the (minimal) wheelbase increase is probably because of the longer travel fork. It'll probably be indistinguishable from riding a 29'er, which is part of the problem. When you try to start taking advantage of the increased grip, and even the improved rollover, you'll be butting against the problems created by the narrow rims.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

richde said:


> I agree with most of your earlier points. The weight is negligible, and the (minimal) wheelbase increase is probably because of the longer travel fork. It'll probably be indistinguishable from riding a 29'er, which is part of the problem. When you try to start taking advantage of the increased grip, and even the improved rollover, you'll be butting against the problems created by the narrow rims.


Yeah, I honestly will probably just put wider rims on it eventually, I'll see how it goes first with the OEM ones. It just isn't sitting well with me even though I'm sure they've justified it and are confident in their decision to go with the 30mm's.

I just put 33c tubeless cyclocross tires on my road bike, just because. I always try to max my tires out. I have no justification for this, it is just a compulsion that started ever since my first fatbike back in 2010.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Specialized is using the wide WTB Scrapers on the Fuze. So...the option was theirs to take on the FSR. I suspect this setup on the FSR is intentional. Scott is using a wide rim with a 2.8 tire to keep the bike more nimble.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

richde said:


> One ride on a plus bike will tell you that low pressure is absolutely critical to increased traction.


yep. when I rode the Fuse, it started off at too high of a pressure setting and I was washing out and was horribly underwhelmed. I let a bit of pressure out, probably 5-10 psi, and it became a whole new bike



perfectbike said:


> Specialized is using the wide WTB Scrapers on the Fuze. So...the option was theirs to take on the FSR. I suspect this setup on the FSR is intentional. Scott is using a wide rim with a 2.8 tire to keep the bike more nimble.


I read on these forums somewhere that a dude claims the FSR 6fattie he rode had the 38mm Rovals, not the 29mm

if so, that is huge (good) news


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

The 29-30mm is most likely internal width. Guessing they will actually be around 35mm external. I haven't ridden one yet so not sure if I would go wider but when I experimented with 35mm rims on my 29+ I hated it. The bike rode so much better with 50mm rims. Check this link for the 650b Traverse wheels they list the internal dimension.

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

aha! It *is* internal.

Here's the link for the alloy Roval Traverse 650b+ Fattie that is used with the SJ:

Specialized Bicycle Components

it states specifically, 29mm internal.

THANK GOODNESS.

ok this beyotch is back on the table again


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

lancelot said:


> The 29-30mm is most likely internal width. Guessing they will actually be around 35mm external. I haven't ridden one yet so not sure if I would go wider but when I experimented with 35mm rims on my 29+ I hated it. The bike rode so much better with 50mm rims. Check this link for the 650b Traverse wheels they list the internal dimension.
> 
> Specialized Bicycle Components


Yeah, I think there's a reason why everyone else is going with 45mm WTB's, which are probably 40mm internal. Specialized half-assing and going cheap, again.

That's like spec'ing 19mm internal rims on a 6-inch "enduro" bike.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I reeeeeally think they purposely did it. Why wouldn't they half ass it on the Fuse and put the good rims on the Stumpy which is more popular?/


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Can you run 29 inch wheels on the 6fattie


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Well hopefully I will let you guys know soon. I drank the Kool Aid and ordered the S-Works version a few weeks ago ( my buddy Yxan has one incoming also). It's due in September according to Specialized. Not too worried about rim size at this point. The Roval wheels are always a great value and usually easy to sell if they come out with a better set. From what we've heard the bike was tested with different sizes and the 35's worked the best overall. Like I said earlier I hated 35's on my 29+ but I should add that a lot of guys prefer the 35's on their 29+ bikes. Mikesee on MTBR prefers them the last I checked and he's a much better rider than I am.


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Derek200 said:


> Can you run 29 inch wheels on the 6fattie


From what I've heard the answer is yes. I'm debating building a "fast" 29er wheelset for mine vs. buying a second XC bike.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

So it seems like if you didn't like the 6 fattie you would just swap out the wheels and have a 29er?


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Derek200 said:


> So it seems like if you didn't like the 6 fattie you would just swap out the wheels and have a 29er?


Yes, the front triangle is from the SJ FSR 29. The rear is altered for the additional width required for Boost/large tires. "All" you need is a compatible 29er wheelset. I demoed the 29" and 27.5" 2016 SJ and they were both amazing.


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## csimon (Apr 14, 2014)

I ordered the Specialized S-Works...and then cancelled and ordered the new Scott Genuis Tuned Plus for four reasons: the wheels(why buy a very expensive bike and then sell them), the twin lock feature on the Scott and frankly the look and the price. Delivery isn't until late this year, but anxious to get riding on it.


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## 911Jetta (Aug 6, 2015)

First post... 

It's been great reading everyone's comments. My shop is building me a FSR Comp 650 6fattie as I type this.

I stumbled onto the 3" tire thing totally by chance. It's been a while since I've bought a new bike so was doing a little research on the whole 27.5/29 thing and also Googled a bunch of the new tech terms like "6fattie". Whoa, what's this 3" tire thing?? 

Most of the trails around here are tight, twisty, rooty, and rocky. I'm hoping the 6fattie just eats it up.

For the past 10+ years I've been riding a Titus Supermoto. A really big, all mountain bike that feels like a 80cc moto flying through the trails. It eats everything up and really loves the turns. Lots of fun to ride. 

I'm hoping the 6fattie feels the same way. Will let you know tomorrow!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I got to pedal the 6fattie comp carbon yesterday and I'm demoing it on a trail tomorrow. I'm pretty excited to see how it compared back to back with my SJ Evo. I'm currently trying to decide between a new SJ 650b and the 6fattie and I shoudl have my answer tomorrow.


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## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

So from the last 2 posts it sounds like there are shops that actually have the FSR 6Fattie actually in stock?? 

I guess I need to call around more, I called 1 or 2 shops in the Denver area last week and all I got was "stop in the shop regularly for the latest news!" with no word on actual stock but it didn't sound like they'd have them anytime soon.


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## 911Jetta (Aug 6, 2015)

Mr. Lynch said:


> I'm currently trying to decide between a new SJ 650b and the 6fattie and I shoudl have my answer tomorrow.


Can the 6fattie be both?

In trying to understand the wheel size thing; it seems like the 6fattie can also easily run a 2.3 on the 650 rim, so you can switch if you don't like or need the extra tire width.

Are there any negatives running the narrower tire on the wider frame?

Plus I can also run a 29er wheel set. Seems like lots of awesome options....

(sorry if all of this have been covered many times, still reading and catching up on threads)


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## 911Jetta (Aug 6, 2015)

tgarson said:


> So from the last 2 posts it sounds like there are shops that actually have the FSR 6Fattie actually in stock??


I stopped by the shop last week and they looked at Morgan Hill's inventory, it said there was 1 in stock (Comp 650 6fattie, Black, Large). "The computer says there's one in stock" you know how that goes... I crossed my fingers and I said I'll buy it right now. 5 days later it's being built up.

I was told a huge number have already shipped (store pre-orders).


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

911Jetta said:


> Can the 6fattie be both?
> 
> In trying to understand the wheel size thing; it seems like the 6fattie can also easily run a 2.3 on the 650 rim, so you can switch if you don't like or need the extra tire width.
> 
> ...


Normal 27.5 tires are much shorter, significantly lowering BB height, it would be like running 27.5s on a 29'er.


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## 911Jetta (Aug 6, 2015)

Thanks richde!

The low bb is the one thing I'm a little bit worried about...


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

My LBS has a bunch. Aluminum and carbon comps in all the sizes. Only was was a pre order. 

My biggest concern is how the 6fattie jumps. I take my SJ evo on jumps lines that have stuff as big as 8-10ft drops and 25ft gaps and I dont want a bike that feels odd in the air. 
I take my fatboy on smaller jumplines (6-8ft) and if your off at all, the mass of the big tires really mess you up. I'm curious if the 6fattie has the same feel, or if it feels like a 29er with a heavy 2.3 tire.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Test rode an aluminum 6Fattie around the parking lot yesterday. Unreal traction, dang near had my handlebars dragging the ground while cornering with no skidding out. Went from full speed to full brakes, and I just stopped... no tire skid, no unstableness, nothing... just stopped. 

The guy said it had 135mm of travel. I was looking for a bit more, but the bike was so stable and handled so extremely well that it wouldn't be a deal breaker. Imagine how happy I was to find out it's actually 150mm! So stoked.


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Rear is 135mm but the fork is 150mm.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Funny how people have them in stock. I walked into to my LBS ready to hand over cash money to order one and he said they won't be around till November or so and to come back then. Maybe I need to buy elsewhere.


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## Bicyclelist (Sep 5, 2006)

I've never wanted a fat bike until this bike. 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Was in my LBS today and saw one in stock! The tires look plenty fat in person...didn't have time to test ride it though...


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

So... I Just noticed that the pics that FC posted were a 6fattie with an actual Purgatory 650b 3.0 up front. That's awesome. the demo bikes at STCP all had the ground controls front and rear. That Purgatory has to be a much better tire for the front of that bike.

So then I was image-searching for all things 3.0 Purgatory 650b and I came across these image from our fine friends at mtbcult dot IT.

When they meant to show was this fine 3.0 in Purgatory. But looking closer...I see some traverse carbon rims... but instead of saying SL on one of the decals, it says "38"! I'm hoping those are some 38mm internal-width carbon hoops. YES, Specialized... Please! make those rims with a 38mm ID.

I'll be all over this bike if they can offer those rims. But please offer a 2x build kit. I can manage 1x11 until I get to a 24% grade up-hill.

Mmm... nice and meaty:








Yes, Traverse... of course








Look closely my friends... that says "38" on the side of that rim!








ninja edit: A better pic of the 38 on the rim


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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Definitely purgatory on the front of the one I saw...rims looked pretty wide but didn't have time to inspect closely


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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Now if they can just make an xxl...


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

*2016 Specialized FSR Comp 6Fattie Review (one weekend of riding)*

Apologies for the lame photo but I felt I had to post some kind of pic.








What:

• This is the low-end version of the Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 6Fattie (can we call it 6Fattie from now on?)

• All aluminum
• No SWAT compartments
• $3499
• SRAM GX 1x11. 28T chainring
• Dropper is post standard
• Front triangle is identical to the new 2016 Sumpjumper FSR 29er
• 29.1 lbs tubeless with no pedals

Who's it for?:

• This is a good question. Someone looking for something completely different or perhaps a bike that can run as a Plus bike and as a 29er with just a quick wheel change.

The rider:

• I'm 5' 9" and 220. So no lightweight. I'm also over 50 and ride around 5-8 hours per week and have done some XC racing. Lot's of consecutive steeps are my least favorite so keep that bias in mind.

Other bike:

• 2014 Specialized Epic Expert (Carbon) World Cup. 22.6 lbs tubeless with no pedals.

Ride:

• Paved parking lot noodling gives no hint to what is in store. The front wheel seems heavy and the big tire like monster overkill in this situation.

• Once you hit the trail the smiles begin. The bike just likes to eat everything in it's way.

• During the tight switchbacks and narrow singletrack on the climb up the bike is shockingly nimble and accurate. Very unexpected.

• Some 6Fatties come with a 30T chainring. The 28T was welcome immediately on the steeps.

• Once the trail turned down the bike turned into a hopping, jumping, pumping, carving, railing, gobbling monster. Quite an amazing and rewarding experience.

• I was doing back-to-back runs switching between the 6Fattie and an S-Works Epic.

What's phat:

• Amazing downhill speed and confidence

• Shockingly nimble in the tight stuff

• Take pretty much any line on the trail and forget obstacles including holes, roots, logs, rocks, sand, shale, creek beds, etc. It's ridiculously good

• Surprisingly fast on grass which we all know is a killer on a "normal" bike

• Build quality of this Taiwanese-built bike is exceptional

• Shimano brakes which feel at least up to XT level if not XTR

• Easy to switch to tubeless

• Crankset allows for easy chainring swaps (but you might need a Boost-compatible ring)

• Gallardo yellow is bad ass (and the color matched top cap)
• Nearly devoid of logos

• Rim width seems just right, a wider and heavier rim wouldn't be something I want

• Saddle, Henge Comp ($100 retail)

• Dropper post worked great (does have a touch of rotational movement which didn't bother me during the rides)

• When immediately switching over to an S-Works Epic after riding the 6Fattie the Epic felt broken and sketchy in comparison (but climbed like a goat)

What's not:

• Suspension can be over-plush with sag set correctly and I never even got close the using all of the travel. Maybe the travel is reserved for ledges, drop-ins and g-outs I don't have the stones for

• The usual awkward access to the CTD shock lever (you will need it). Especially awkward with a large bottle in the cage

• Pedal strikes. This bike is definitely lower than I'm used to and will take me some time to adapt

• Somewhat wonky shifts to the two larger cogs with the GX if under any load (as compared to X01 on my 2014 Epic). Same behavior with the stock 28T and Wolftooth 26T chainring

• No Swat mini-tool storage above the shock

• Not the fastest bike up the steeps, extra energy will be required and it is noticeable

• Single gear downshifts with trigger shift, switch to Grip Shift (I did)

• Yes, you really have to play with tire pressure

Summary:

I can't say that this new format of bike will take over the world. The climbing handicap seems significant to me. However, the performance on slight grades, all trails and descents is game changing. So it's really all about your style of riding and perhaps your ego. Are you willing to walk some steeps? I had a 26T direct-fit chainring available (BB30 compatible) that I installed on the bike. It's not a "Boost BB30" chainring so the chainline is off by 3mm. I couldn't detect any shifting anomalies though. I can assure you that on the terrain we rode this weekend the 26T came in handy (my friend and I were trading off bikes) for both of us and kept us from walking some steeps. If you have a good power/weight ratio as a rider this may be a non-issue for you. However, there is definitely a climbing penalty with the 6Fattie. Next up is more suspension and tire pressure tuning. After that I think an experiment with a set of Boost compatible 29er wheels is in order. If you want to have a lot of fun, go a little slower overall and feel super safe on the trails this could be the format for you.


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## radnur22 (Jul 16, 2007)

Cody01 said:


> Funny how people have them in stock. I walked into to my LBS ready to hand over cash money to order one and he said they won't be around till November or so and to come back then. Maybe I need to buy elsewhere.


Was it the Knicker Biker?


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## tgarson (Jul 28, 2015)

perfectbike said:


> The climbing handicap seems significant to me.


Thanks for your review/impressions, do you think the climbing penalty is based mostly off of weight? A little hard to compare an aluminum and a carbon bike in that regard but a plus bike is always going to have some weight penalty so something to consider. Most of the other reviews/previews I've seen for other plus bikes have also commented that the increased traction on climbing has been a big improvement so my hope is that a lighter carbon build might not climb like a dog.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

tgarson said:


> Thanks for your review/impressions, do you think the climbing penalty is based mostly off of weight? A little hard to compare an aluminum and a carbon bike in that regard but a plus bike is always going to have some weight penalty so something to consider. Most of the other reviews/previews I've seen for other plus bikes have also commented that the increased traction on climbing has been a big improvement so my hope is that a lighter carbon build might not climb like a dog.


I'll chalk it up to (in order) fitness, fattie physics, overall bike weight. This bike will push my fitness so that's a good thing.


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## breaks911 (Aug 16, 2005)

For those of you that have bought/ordered the 6fattie, how is the pricing? Are you having to pay MSRP or are ya getting discounts?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I got to pedal a 6 fattie in a parking lot today. I'm very intrigued by the bike. But it seems like something more in the 2.6/2.7 inch width range would be a more ideal size on a 29. It seems like spesh and trek are still guessing where the magic is. Can't wait till they find it


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## K_B (Aug 15, 2015)

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I ended up buying this bike (base model) because I'm a sucker for "different" and it had a decent spec for the money; especially compared to the Santa Cruz 5010 I was looking at for the same price.

First Impressions since owning this bike for a whopping 5 days now:

Climbs better than expected; just as well as the Trek Fuel EX 27.5 that it replaced; maybe even better. Noticeably better on technical climbs; goes over roots no problem. I too, noticed more pedal strikes than what I'm used to.

Descends great. The extra traction was exactly what I wanted for some of the loose trails that we have around here. HOWEVER, there is much less feedback in the front-end compared to my old bike. I'm getting used to it (I ride a fat bike a lot), but this could be a deal breaker for others.

Steering, as expected, isn't as snappy as a regular 27.5. It steers very similar to a 29er but with some slight tire scrub/squirm at slower speeds.

This doesn't seem like a bike you're gonna air out over the jumps. It does well over the small tabletops I encounter but I think it would be a bit of a handful over some big air type jumps. I'm not at the skill level to really put that to the test.

Overall, after going through two other bikes this summer, I think I may have finally found the well-rounded bike I've been looking for. Only time will tell!


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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

I did a parking lot test today as well. Feels really nimble for how big the tires are...hopped it around a lot and smashed up and down curbs...really plush feeling as well. I could see this thing being a riot on real trails...particularly the rocky and loose SoCal terrain...


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## Van Cuz (Jun 24, 2010)

Has anyone who has one (I understand that's probably not many at this point) tried out the bike with 29"wheels and normal sized tyres fitted?

I am just wondering how versatile the bike is, as in could I run it as a Chubby bike for most of the time, and then fit 29"wheels with skinnier tyres if i wanted to do an XC race on it?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Derek200 said:


> I got to pedal a 6 fattie in a parking lot today. I'm very intrigued by the bike. But it seems like something more in the 2.6/2.7 inch width range would be a more ideal size on a 29. It seems like spesh and trek are still guessing where the magic is. Can't wait till they find it


As long as they are using the same 29er front triangle from another bike using a 2.6" 27+ tire is going to put the BB real low unless the BB was uber high on the 29er version. So that kind of limits the realistic tire choices. If they made a dedicated 27+ frame they could tweak the BB height to work with whatever tires they decided were best. Maybe next year?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

29er tires clear fine. My buddy with a 6fattie tried some 29er wheels with 2.3 butchers. The biggest problem is you need to find "boost" width hubs and not too many wheelsets available with then yet. He couldnt ride it as a 29er since the test wheels where the wrong hub width, but he installed the axles and check for tire clearance.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Van Cuz said:


> Has anyone who has one (I understand that's probably not many at this point) tried out the bike with 29"wheels and normal sized tyres fitted?
> 
> I am just wondering how versatile the bike is, as in could I run it as a Chubby bike for most of the time, and then fit 29"wheels with skinnier tyres if i wanted to do an XC race on it?











I just put a set of SRAM Roam Boost wheels on the bike over the weekend (in the pic it's Fattie front and 29er rear). Didn't really do any extensive riding yet. I don't see why you can't do what you want but the rear shock would probably need to be locked out for racing. The bike climbs better where there is traction but feels "sketchy" compared to the 27.5x3.0 setup. I'm going to also try the Schwalbe tires when they come out (2.8").


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## Van Cuz (Jun 24, 2010)

Yeah, the 2.8 schwables look great, hopefully they don't lower the BB too much. 

I don't know why Spesh specced 28mm rims for this bike. Scott are using 40mm for there 2.8 tyres, and a lot of people are already using wider than 28mm with normal tyres. 

I prefer the Scott theory of the wider rim and slightly thinner tyre, than the opposite which Specialized have chosen. I guess the proof is in the riding, but the chances of most people getting to demo both setups are slim


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Keep in mind the 28mm is internal. External should be around 35mm. Now let's please move past the rim width until people get some real ride time in on these bad boys.


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## Van Cuz (Jun 24, 2010)

lancelot said:


> Keep in mind the 28mm is internal. External should be around 35mm. Now let's please move past the rim width until people get some real ride time in on these bad boys.


Yep, totally aware of that, and the rims on the Scott are 40mm internal.

The Specialized Fuse 6fattie has 45mm rims, using the same width tyres as the stumpjumper.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Just at a Spesh shop and they put a medium on the scales with pedals 14 kg exact. Or a tad over 30 lbs


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Twimby said:


> Just at a Spesh shop and they put a medium on the scales with pedals 14 kg exact. Or a tad over 30 lbs


Model?
Test ride pedals?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

The Aly Comp, so the lower end model
Clipless pedals
There was someone looking at the 27.5 model, so they had just put on the scale, Fatty was only 600 g more
I also asked about the option of the getting the WTB Fuse rims. At this stage not on the official books, as an option but they said they would consider a swap


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

Does anyone know the actual weight of a SJ FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie ?


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## giantdefy (Jun 26, 2010)

LFJ said:


> Does anyone know the actual weight of a SJ FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie ?


Medium 30lbs 13 ounces w plastic pedals.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I wonder what an SWorks weighs in at..


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

thanks. looks to be about same weight as the alum base model as noted above.


giantdefy said:


> Medium 30lbs 13 ounces w plastic pedals.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Twimby said:


> The Aly Comp, so the lower end model
> Clipless pedals
> There was someone looking at the 27.5 model, so they had just put on the scale, Fatty was only 600 g more
> I also asked about the option of the getting the WTB Fuse rims. At this stage not on the official books, as an option but they said they would consider a swap


My medium alloy without pedals and 6oz Stans was 29.1 on a very accurate scale.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

My buddy has been riding the orange one for a couple of weeks now. He's very happy with it. he commented on our 30 mile night ride yesterday that the traction was far better than his old 26x2" tires. he seems to be faster overall, but I might be getting slower. usually I can drop him by the end of a ride like this, but not last night.

The rims are narrow. he had some issues with the front tire rolling when bunny hopping. His tire pressure is fairly high at ~17psi.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

PretendGentleman said:


> My buddy has been riding the orange one for a couple of weeks now. He's very happy with it. he commented on our 30 mile night ride yesterday that the traction was far better than his old 26x2" tires. he seems to be faster overall, but I might be getting slower. usually I can drop him by the end of a ride like this, but not last night.
> 
> The rims are narrow. he had some issues with the front tire rolling when bunny hopping. His tire pressure is fairly high at ~17psi.


And this is exactly why I think Spec completely screwed up. How they didn't see this coming is beyond me


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

sgtrobo said:


> And this is exactly why I think Spec completely screwed up. How they didn't see this coming is beyond me


It's not happening to me and I raced my bike last weekend with 10psi in the front tire. Can't say I was "bunny hopping" everywhere. But I pushed the front tire pretty hard at speed into turns/berms. Maybe my burping number just hasn't come up yet.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

The rims aren't a deal breaker. This bike is at the front of the pack, so not all parts are optimized; it's to be expected when you buy the first generation. 

The tire rolling happened once, and he didn't burp, just felt it squirm away when he preloaded for a bunny hop. We were riding 30 miles of log strewn trails with a few miles of urban obstacles mixed in. The rims are narrow, but it's not a big deal at all if you're not putting in the serious body english it takes to shred gnar


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I think can all agree the rims could be wider but someone please show another 27.5+ FS that comes with a fork that good. Everyone else kicking out a 27.5+ is using a $200 fork.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Cody01 said:


> someone please show another 27.5+ FS that comes with a fork that good. Everyone else kicking out a 27.5+ is using a $200 fork.


I think the Salsa Pony Rustler has a pretty similar fork, not sure if it's identical


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Why does the frame only option for the 6 fattie cost 1500 more than the 29 frame?


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Derek200 said:


> Why does the frame only option for the 6 fattie cost 1500 more than the 29 frame?


yeah, it shows the Carbon 6Fattie frame as $4500 and the full Comp Carbon 6Fattie bike as $4500. I'm thinking this is a mistake, obviously


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

The frame option comes with wheels as well.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Ah.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

bad andy said:


> The frame option comes with wheels as well.


ok then, that makes a good bit more sense.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Except if I was custome building 1500 wheels not sure those are what I'd want to end up with.


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## Van Cuz (Jun 24, 2010)

Cody01 said:


> I think can all agree the rims could be wider but someone please show another 27.5+ FS that comes with a fork that good. Everyone else kicking out a 27.5+ is using a $200 fork.


2016 SCOTT Sports Genius 710 Plus Specs - Mtbr.com

Fox 34 _and_ 40mm ID rims.

I'm not sure if you can buy these yet though.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

*My new Stumpy FSR 6Fattie Comp Carbon*

View attachment 1011945
View attachment 1011944
View attachment 1011946


Rode it for the first time today on some technical/rocky climbs and descents and it was smooth!


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

Would like to see close up pictures of the rear tire clearance. 
I chose a Fuze over the FSR because of the 29mm rims on the FSR. 
Perhaps the swing arm on all the FSRs are the same and won't fit a 3.0 unless mounted on a narrow rim?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

There is a TON of room between the stays. Made me wonder if a 3.8-4.0 might fit width wise. I think the main issue would be the tire contacting the seat tube under full compression. I didnt check to see how much room there was.


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## lancelot (May 24, 2006)

Lots of clearance for sure. First thing I checked when seeing one for the first time.


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

There is plenty of clearance, I will add photos asap


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## andrewbgardner (Mar 6, 2007)

I've been toying with buying the expert and finally demo'd the comp model for a full days worth of riding a few days ago. I'm looking to compliment by Salsa Bucksaw I've been riding all season, which so far as been the most fun bike I've ever owned and I've ridden a lot! My opinion is that, as posted previously, Specialized completely screwed up with the narrow wheel size. 29-30mm ID is not maximizing this bike capability in the slightest. The 3" tire is on a standard rim width, end of story. This allows for a ballooning of the tire, making it squishy and it wallows at lower psi and especially in turns due to lack of stability. At higher psi, it can compensate for this but then you lose the advantages of having a bigger tire, - defeats the purpose. Not to mention to utilize all the traction of the 3" tire, you'll have to lean that bike over so far to reach the side lugs due to such a rounded, ballooned profile. You'll lay the bike down before reaching those side knobs. Scott, Salsa, Trek, and even other Specialized 6fattie models use a wider rim, have no clue why they spec'd it this way on the stumpjumper other than a rush to market to be first. 
My ride was nice though, the bike is good and is a potential winner and no-brainer if they either correct the wheel size or the buyer bites the bullet and builds up a wider set. Coming from my bucksaw with whisky 9 carbon 70mm on a 4" tire, there was no comparison in cornering between by bucksaw and the 6fattie. Again, no stability with those narrow wheels. I got to say though, that it's a nice bike but keep in mind, it's flawed. Others may not notice it because they're coming from standard tires but coming from a wider tire and rim, I can completely notice how unstable it is. The potential is there but not in this current build set. I'm not going to put my money down on a bike just to turn around and sell the wheels and then pay for new ones that should've made the spec from day one, like the fuze has. My only hope is the website now shows the 6fattie traverse 38mm ID wheels and I'm hoping they make it onto the s-works model. Otherwise, I'll wait to ride the Scott before making a decision.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Here's a kinda sorta scientific test done by Enve regarding rim widths.

I'm not super upset about the choice from Spesh as I'll likely get carbon rims. Whatev.

Is Wider Always Better? - NSMB.com


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

XJaredX said:


> Here's a kinda sorta scientific test done by Enve regarding rim widths.
> 
> I'm not super upset about the choice from Spesh as I'll likely get carbon rims. Whatev.
> 
> Is Wider Always Better? - NSMB.com


This study is very not scientific, though the spirit is there. Their conclusion might be right (but pretty much only by accident), and I applaud their efforts, but it's not nearly enough and there are far too many variables beyond width that are not being considered.

And the graphics are horrible horrible horrible.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

It's not unscientific. There isn't really a way to test this. I think you quantify why you think wide rims are going to be better and then describe why that is better. If it's about former sodewalls at lower pressure that is testable. Could be done better but the idea that there are diminishing returns is likely dead on.


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## j3ffro (May 8, 2015)

Also, the subheader of that article is "We Aren't Talking Fat Or Plus" - so drawing conclusions from it in relation to plus wheels may be misguided.


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

Also, calling a 29mm inner width rim narrow is off base. 

I used American Classic wide lightning (29mm inner) wheels at first on my conversion then went to 35mm inner width carbon rims and couldn't see or feel the difference. I'm a former pro and know how to brake and corner


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## j3ffro (May 8, 2015)

twowheelfunman said:


> Also, calling a 29mm inner width rim narrow is off base.
> 
> I used American Classic wide lightning (29mm inner) wheels at first on my conversion then went to 35mm inner width carbon rims and couldn't see or feel the difference. I'm a former pro and know how to brake and corner


Thank you very much. I keep getting the impression that people are overreacting to what seems to be a small number, but the reality is it really doesn't matter - especially by someone who's a below average mtbr like myself. Hearing that you very much know what you are doing, and what to look for, and couldn't tell a difference, I think that speaks volumes.


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## Rob T (Jan 10, 2007)

This may have been answered but why is the StumpJumper 27.5+ opening price point model almost double the price of the Fuse opening price point model (comp)? $3,400 versus $1,600 respectively. 

thanks,
rob


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Saw a 6fattie at shop today. Too bad they didnt have my size.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Okay, I have five rides on my 6Fattie Comp Carbon and I can say it is awesome! I have been lucky enough to trade bikes every three months for the last ten years or so ( excellent LBS) and have tried everything from Enduro 29 To Tall boy LTC, to Bronson, to Pivot Mach 6, to Marin quad-link( forget the name, new one 2015 650b Enduro) to another Bronson CC, now to this 6Fattie ( many many others prior), and this is a whole new animal. I'm really impressed with the small bump compliance and "float" over small trail obstacles. This bike manuals with ease, shreds downhill and tackles gnarly technical terrain that many of the aforementioned bikes just couldn't handle. Tight switchbacks both up and down are easily handled and traction is amazing. I have not tried wider rims with +size tires so I have no basis of comparison, but they feel well planted and easy to maneuver with about 14 psi. My only nitpick would be the bottom bracket height makes for lots of crank hits in technical terrain while pedaling. The SWAT system is surprisingly cool. I was a little apprehensive at first, but riding without a Camelbak for the first time in 15 years was amazing! What is truly commendable about this bike is that I feel fresh at the bottom of rocky descents that other bikes best me up on. I like trying the latest and greatest products and am very thankful to Bob at Mojo Wheels in Denver for accommodating my constant revolving door of bikes. Specialized has something truly special in this bike, and although I have ridden most bikes at the S-Works level, this Carbon Comp is a great bike and great spec


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Hey. That's a great idea. A bike lease program. New bike every 6 months to a year.

You pay an upfront fee and then basically depreciation every month for a defined period of time! Great way to try a bunch of bikes.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

It has been a great thing for my new bike itch! I know Mojo Wheels does this for a number of their customers, and the price to get into a new better bike is greatly reduced. I don't know of any other bike shop that does this, but they have been my only shop for 10+ years.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

That's awesome


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## richde (Jun 8, 2004)

twowheelfunman said:


> Also, calling a 29mm inner width rim narrow is off base.


Depends on what tire size you're talking about. 2.3? Not at all. 3.0? Yes, very.

If WTB, Trek and whoever else are designing their plus sized tires to be used on a specific rim width, just as Maxxis and others do for non-plus, going away from what they designed around and recommend is NOT optimal.

It might "feel" nice, but that's not really a measure of performance.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Hey guys I got yakima roof rack. Will a 27.5+ fit in my bike tray and what about the fork adapter for the new 110 standard? I havent seen much googling. I have the yakima forklift rack.


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

I have a Highroller and a 4" fat bike tire fits in it. As shallow as the tray looks on the Forklift I would think that a 3" would fit on there. I had to get a separate strap to hold my tire on for the 4" tire, the stock one just barely works for a 3.25" Vee Trak Fatty on a 50mm Nextie rim.

I found some Hurricane fork adapters that should work for the front. Since downhill bikes have had 20mm x 110mm hubs for a while people have made adapters for those.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=468


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## andrewbgardner (Mar 6, 2007)

richde said:


> Depends on what tire size you're talking about. 2.3? Not at all. 3.0? Yes, very.
> 
> If WTB, Trek and whoever else are designing their plus sized tires to be used on a specific rim width, just as Maxxis and others do for non-plus, going away from what they designed around and recommend is NOT optimal.
> 
> It might "feel" nice, but that's not really a measure of performance.


Agreed! Wheel width is critical! I don't think anyone here is saying it's not a awesome bike nor a sweet ride, but it isn't what it could be without the appropriately sized wheel. You'll see specialized do a mid-season update on this wheel on their 6fatties or at most see it next model year line up. There's a reason for this change and despite what you keep telling yourself, "size does matter".


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

andrewbgardner said:


> I've been toying with buying the expert and finally demo'd the comp model for a full days worth of riding a few days ago. I'm looking to compliment by Salsa Bucksaw I've been riding all season, which so far as been the most fun bike I've ever owned and I've ridden a lot! My opinion is that, as posted previously, Specialized completely screwed up with the narrow wheel size. 29-30mm ID is not maximizing this bike capability in the slightest. The 3" tire is on a standard rim width, end of story. This allows for a ballooning of the tire, making it squishy and it wallows at lower psi and especially in turns due to lack of stability. At higher psi, it can compensate for this but then you lose the advantages of having a bigger tire, - defeats the purpose.


This is accurate, tires will be less stable on an overly narrow rim, which is why trials riders, fat bikers, and muni riders all run 40-50mm rims with 3" tires.

It's strange that using narrower rims seems to be the trend, maybe they need to use up old stock of product or maybe they don't see the need to go wider...lighter weight, bigger appearance?

I will say that a narrower rim goes up tubeless easier because the beads of the tire are naturally closer together when deflated.

I run WTB Scrapers (id 45mm) on my 29 x 3 Dirt Wizards (Tandem) and on my 650 x 3" Purgatorys (Mutz), it's good match.

So Andrew, why not get a second set of 650 x 3" wheels for the Bucksaw? Are you looking for more travel or an enduro sort of bike?


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## andrewbgardner (Mar 6, 2007)

Nurse Ben said:


> This is accurate, tires will be less stable on an overly narrow rim, which is why trials riders, fat bikers, and muni riders all run 40-50mm rims with 3" tires.
> 
> It's strange that using narrower rims seems to be the trend, maybe they need to use up old stock of product or maybe they don't see the need to go wider...lighter weight, bigger appearance?
> 
> ...


Correct, I'm looking for a more enduro, fun trail bike for my more aggressive rides and for Moab that I try to hit 4-5x a year. I've ridden my fatty there but 100mm of travel only goes so far, even with the 120mm front I converted to, I still find it lacking what a true dedicated enduro bike can do and handle. I'm sold on the fat or plus tire and will NEVER go back. I frequently smash any old descent records I had done previously on my SC Bronson or enduro 29er. "Go big or go home"!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I think only the early batches are going to come with the narrower rims. I bet the Roval 38mm will become standard across the line really soon. 

My LBS got a Fuse pro with the aluminum 38mm rims and the tire profile looked spot on to me.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

So this bike complicated things even more for me. I was pretty set on a super nice Giant Trance SX that a mechanic at the local bike shop was selling..... until I stopped in and saw one of these in person. It looks like a blast and from everything I have read it seems to be doing pretty awesome. My dilemma is my budget is right at about $3500 where this bike falls and I really need a good climbing bike for some of the trails I ride here. My end goal is I would like to eventually (by late next summer) get my feet wet in a few smaller enduro type races but I can only afford one bike and I'm not convinced that the plus size is THAT bike. Right now I'm torn between the 6fattie comp and the used Giant Trance Advanced SX carbon frame model. If you only could pick one, which would it be?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Nurse Ben...Are you running the 650 x 3" Purgatorys front and back? I have a new Fuse and would like to try that combo.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Long time Trek user, but the FSR 6Fattie was just too good and it ticked all my boxes: 150mm travel, low BB, short CS, 67 deg HA, factory dropper... the fact that it's 27.5+ (and the fact that Trek decided to go 29+) sealed the deal. It should be here Thursday!

For the rim size, I read that Specialized didn't find a significant difference between narrower rims vs. wider rims as far as traction was concerned, but that it was the weight savings that made the difference. I test rode one and couldn't get the tire to roll or break traction, so it was a moot point.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> So this bike complicated things even more for me. I was pretty set on a super nice Giant Trance SX that a mechanic at the local bike shop was selling..... until I stopped in and saw one of these in person. It looks like a blast and from everything I have read it seems to be doing pretty awesome. My dilemma is my budget is right at about $3500 where this bike falls and I really need a good climbing bike for some of the trails I ride here. My end goal is I would like to eventually (by late next summer) get my feet wet in a few smaller enduro type races but I can only afford one bike and I'm not convinced that the plus size is THAT bike. Right now I'm torn between the 6fattie comp and the used Giant Trance Advanced SX carbon frame model. If you only could pick one, which would it be?


I did a 6hr 5000' gain ride with my buddy on his specialized. He just came over from a 26" trance and was commenting on how little the specialized bobbed on climbs compared to the trance.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

What are people doing for bash protection on these? It seems like all the fs b+ bikes coming out are 1x drivetrains with no Iscg tabs and non threaded bb.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Unit91MS said:


> What are people doing for bash protection on these? It seems like all the fs b+ bikes coming out are 1x drivetrains with no Iscg tabs and non threaded bb.


Got mine in last night, and you are correct: this is no way to mount a bash guard. I think the only thing that helps is that it has a 28T chainring, so your hits are going to be minimal (if you even need to use one at all).


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Unit91MS said:


> What are people doing for bash protection on these? It seems like all the fs b+ bikes coming out are 1x drivetrains with no Iscg tabs and non threaded bb.


My aluminum comp 6Fattie has a flange with three bolt holes at the BB which I assume is ICSG. Here's a pic of the bike and you can see two of the flange mount holes.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Looks like ISCG tabs to me! Perfect for a MRP AMG or Blackspire Bruiser.


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Yeah, I know there are ISCG-05 threaded inserts in carbon.
I don't ever feel the need for a bash guard, but I do typically run a small top guide (although there isn't one for a small 28t)


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The MRP 1x goes down the 26t. My buddy runs one on his Enduro 29er with a 28t.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

perfectbike said:


> My aluminum comp 6Fattie has a flange with three bolt holes at the BB which I assume is ICSG. Here's a pic of the bike and you can see two of the flange mount holes.
> 
> View attachment 1016058


Thanks for that! I didn't see anything listed in the specs for it!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Looks like ISCG tabs to me! Perfect for a MRP AMG or Blackspire Bruiser.


I just read the other day about these guys' bash guard thingamajiggy too. Looks pretty clean and unobtrusive, and with specific sizes 28-34t: 77designz.com - NEW crash-plate | 34T (ISCG 05)


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Yeah, i put mine together in the dark last night. Finishing up on it this morning, I saw that it had the holes in the carbon for ISCG 05 mounting. 

Also, just finished the inaugural ride: This bike is, hands down, the BEST bike I have ever ridden in my life! Nothing even comes close to how much fun this bike is. You can set it up tubeless right out of the box, the Shimano brakes are literally on par with my XTR's (so much so that I am selling my XTR's), has friggin 203/180 ice tech rotors stock(!), the 67 deg head angle is PERFECT with no flippy floppy handling, and the suspension is buttery smooth like you are riding on fluffy pillows. 

The traction you ask? - Good Lord! Stay off the brakes, lean the bike in a corner, and hang the **** on! Climbing? If the pedals are spinning, you are moving. Sand? Like it is not even there! Sick, I tell you - SICKKKKKK!


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The MRP 1x goes down the 26t. My buddy runs one on his Enduro 29er with a 28t.


My bad. Was thinking it was bolt on chain-ring, not direct mount.
I actually run the MRP 1X V3 ISCG-05 on my 2016 Stumpy 650b... but having the cheaper sram alloy cranks with 104bcd spider it does not technically go below 32t, but barely works on my 30t (hits crank arm spider ends if you lower too much).

This is a photo from when I made my own Taco Blade delete spacer, but you can see how high the guide is above the teeth. 
Sorry if this is a moot point for those of you with nicer cranks and a direct mount chainring.


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## TubeSSnapper (Nov 15, 2004)

Plus sized will be the new norm. It is that much better . 30 years of MTB funnest bike ever. Rode mt rose to toads in tahoe. All day fun. All day. Fun.
The narrow rim....I just don't have enough context to comment, but as I said this stumpy is the funnest ever


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

How are you guys doing with the super-steep climbs? I'm talking 25% grades. I can clear them on my 3x9 on my 26' Enduro. When I demod the 2015 650b stumpy, I had to walk up the local 25% grade. At least the 650b stumpy has the taco blade option. The 6fattie has no taco blade option so you are stuck with a 1x setup.

Of course traction is not an issue with the 6fattie, but I'm thinking mechanical leverage will be an issue...

Still can't wait to demo the 6fattie. I think I'm gonna love it. I'll demo with the 30mm rims, but I'll wait to buy until the kits to come with 38mm ID carbon rims though. Although I used to run the Purgatory 2.4 on skinny 19mm ID rims and thought it was fine. That tire was bigger then most 2.5's.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I just picked up a demo expert 6 fattie today. Was super excited to get out on a ride. Got too excited and forgot to take my pump. So got to trail head and had only about 7 psi. So headed back home. 

Looking forward to tomorrow though. Gonna hit some local trails and see how it rides!! 

They picked a hell of a demo though. Expert model. sweet!


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Finally got to ride today. Rode about 7 miles. Sweet bike. I cleaned every feature today with the exception of two uphill switchbacks and two downhill switchbacks. Not sure I'll ever make the uphill ones

This bike is the schiznit. It would be nice to ride the 29er Sj to compare. But was very impressed with the bike. 

The only thing that bothered me (I got used to it) was the front wheel - when you turn the handlebars, felt like it wanted to keep turning sharper and sharper. Not sure if that has to do with fork offset or tires. Wasn't a big deal when actually riding. But noticeable when puttering around in the driveway. 

This bike was fun. No two ways about it.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Yeah, i put mine together in the dark last night. Finishing up on it this morning, I saw that it had the holes in the carbon for ISCG 05 mounting.


Where'd you buy from that you had to assemble it? I thought Specialized only sold to dealers?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

MisterClean said:


> How are you guys doing with the super-steep climbs? I'm talking 25% grades. I can clear them on my 3x9 on my 26' Enduro. When I demod the 2015 650b stumpy, I had to walk up the local 25% grade. At least the 650b stumpy has the taco blade option. The 6fattie has no taco blade option so you are stuck with a 1x setup.
> 
> Of course traction is not an issue with the 6fattie, but I'm thinking mechanical leverage will be an issue...


I did some pretty steep switchbacks today. I never got to the lowest 42t gear and I was able to clear everything. I think the biggest thing for me before was either spinning out in too low of a gear, or losing traction trying to mash my way up - neither of which are an issue with the 6Fattie tires. Just lean forward and spin. I am actually considering moving up to a 30t or 32t ring in the front, but I want to test it a bit more.

On a side note: I had one particular section of trail on a downhill that I was used to jumping on my old bike. I did it the same way today and, halfway through the air, I realized that I was about to land into a very nasty, rooty, rocky, washed out section caused by all the rain we had back in the spring. Not only did I land it, but the bike soaked it up like it was smooth and buttery. This was on top of intentionally taking terrible lines through the worst stuff I could find. This bike simply does things it is not supposed to.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Unit91MS said:


> Where'd you buy from that you had to assemble it? I thought Specialized only sold to dealers?


I'm a bike mechanic at a Specialized dealer.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Yeah. The one I am riding just swallows up the terrain here. Very chunky loose rocks


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I know right? It's an amazing bike.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I'm a bike mechanic at a Specialized dealer.


That makes more sense then! I went to my dealer today hoping to ride one but they only had the Fuse in stock. Oh well.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> This bike simply does things it is not supposed to.


Can't wait for the bike shop to build the stock they got in this week. I'm looking forward to gives it a test ride.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Got a comp for weekend test
In West Oz our tracks are covered in what we call pea gravel. Like riding on ball bearings
This bike is made for our tracks. I picked the old school rock and root trails. I am not much of a jumper, but put this in the air where I would normally roll down
I was trying to show off in front of my mate on a very rutted steep fire connect trail and got caught in one of the ruts and thought I was gone. Bike did not move


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Unit91MS said:


> That makes more sense then! I went to my dealer today hoping to ride one but they only had the Fuse in stock. Oh well.


To be clear: My last 6 or 7 bikes were all Trek bikes, and I have never had a desire to own a Specialized bike. I kept waiting for Trek to release a 27.5+ version of the Remedy (which considering they MADE the Boost standard....), but they decided to go 29+ instead.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I rode again this morning and really like this bike. 

But I'm not sure why the 6 fatties frame costs so much more. And why they only make the 9m frame. 

It's weird cause in the s-works line the 6 fattie is 9m, the 650b is 10m and the 29 is 11m


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The 6fatties frameset comes with a carbon wheelset in the "boost" hub sizing.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Boost shouldn't be any more expensive should they?


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## CougarSlayer (Aug 31, 2015)

finally saw one in person (was the $3500 low build) .. really cool bike


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I cried a little when I returned the bike to the shop this morning


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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

Did another test ride at the lbs...soooo plush! The shop guys said they were able to pull out the wheels on the 6fattie and pop em into a boost remedy 8...showed me a pic of it...looked like they fit no problem...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Has anybody setup their FSR 6fatty tubeless with the stock wheels yet? If so, how are they behaving?


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## K_B (Aug 15, 2015)

I've been wanting to convert mine to tubeless but I've been too busy riding!


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

phride said:


> Has anybody setup their FSR 6fatty tubeless with the stock wheels yet? If so, how are they behaving?


Yes, since day one. Everything is fine. 11psi front, 15 psi rear. The tubes are enormous and heavy.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

perfectbike said:


> Yes, since day one. Everything is fine. 11psi front, 15 psi rear. The tubes are enormous and heavy.


Thanks. I knew I didn't want those big, ugly things spinning around inside the tires adding the better part of a pound of rotational weight to . The Purgatory Control tires and rims seem surprisingly light for such a beast, but I kept suspecting that they wouldn't be a good match tubeless. Good to hear that they are working out. I'm really fired-up to try this bike out.


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## jbarton (Jun 23, 2014)

I bought the SJ comp carbon 6fattie as soon as my lbs had it built up. Hands down the best and most fun bike I've ever ridden. I have ridden a lot of bikes also...from hardtail 29er to Fat. I'm sold on fat and have been...but this thing is the best of all worlds. I was concerned about the narrower rims but I have not had one problem at all and really feel no difference from riding the WTB Scrapers that are on the Fuse. Super soft, slack, dropper, 1x, shimano brakes, etc. This bike has opened all kinds of doors on what you can do on the trail. Hands down the most fun you will have.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Jbarton - I read in another post that someone was able to fit 2.8 inch tires on their 650B. 

Would that seem to be still in 6fattie territory? I demoed the 6fattie and loved it. Had some pedal strikes. If it fits in a 650. It would slightly raise the bb and may solve the pedal strikes. It would also be 6-700 bucks cheaper.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The 2.8 trailblazer tire is not a true 2.8. The 2.5 Butcher SX is atleast the same size and might be bigger.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Ah. So I got really excited over nothing


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

My buddy with a 650b Enduro runs the trailblazer on his bike. He likes the extra volume you get over the standard 2.3 size tires, so it is nice to have a bigger option, but is should be called a 2.5.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Derek200 said:


> Jbarton - I read in another post that someone was able to fit 2.8 inch tires on their 650B.
> 
> Would that seem to be still in 6fattie territory? I demoed the 6fattie and loved it. Had some pedal strikes. If it fits in a 650. It would slightly raise the bb and may solve the pedal strikes. It would also be 6-700 bucks cheaper.


Specialized changed the 650b frames this year by reducing the bb drop to accommodate the smaller wheel diameter and get better clearance, after having used the 29er front triangle last year. They're using the 29er front triangle on the 6fattie now. If you're patient, they might solve this problem for you next year. It's a shame they went to the extra effort for the standard 650b, which isn't going to sell as well with both the 29er and 6fatty sitting alongside it, and didn't put the effort instead into optimizing the 6fattie. With another half cm to cm of bb height, I think it would be perfect.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm in the opposite camp. I'd like to see the bikes LOWER. The 6fattie bb height is about right to me with the others being too high. 

The 29er Geo is pretty dialed, and 6fattie is basically a 29er with the ability to run wider tires. Where I live the 650b is far outselling everything else. You get used to a low BB real quick and pedal strikes are easy to avoid, and its well worth the low slung corner railing feel the bikes have.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Yeah, I'm with you on the lower bb - it's one of the main reasons I chose this bike. I'd rather have the random pedal strike every now and then than have a higher bb.

As far as tubeless? They come with the rim strips already installed AND the tubeless valve stems are in the box. No reason not to do it. 

Multi-tool? I just found out that there is a spot for a multi-tool right above the shock... however, I don't see one there? Can someone else check to see if they have one? (mine mightve fallen out maybe..)

SWAT storage? - I was having ghost rattles, so I pulled everything out of it. The drink holder will hold a small Camelbak bottle though, so that's a plus, lol. 

BB creak - its there already, and I haven't had the bike a week yet... sigh.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The tool only comes with the Expert and S-works models. You can add one to the Comp and it's well worth it.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

"BB creak - its there already, and I haven't had the bike a week yet... sigh."

Check the tightness of the rear through axle. Also make sure it isn't the headset. I've had noise from both and solved both so far.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Yeah, I'm with you on the lower bb - it's one of the main reasons I chose this bike. I'd rather have the random pedal strike every now and then than have a higher bb.
> 
> BB creak - its there already, and I haven't had the bike a week yet... sigh.


Ask your LBS to clean that up. There's no way that should be happening, unless it wasn't installed right (says the guy who's installed a creaky bottom bracket for himself before - Oops). Check that it's not something simpler first (e.g., loose cranks).

Maybe I'm kidding myself with hopes for a higher BB next year. Left coasters seem to like the low ones well enough (and for good reason). I've got a number of favorite steep, rocky, stair-steppy climbs where pedaling is mandatory and strikes can send you backwards in a hurry that I'd like to keep in the rotation (as the 6fattie looks ideal for the various ways back down).


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## jbarton (Jun 23, 2014)

I'm with you on the low bb. First ride I had a few pedal strikes but haven't had one since and I'm riding rocky rooty terrain...with some small jumps. You definitely get used to it quickly. I also went tubeless the day I got the bike and just carry one in the swat door. I had my lbs order the tool and it is well worth it. I haven't worn my camelback since. Definitely look into your BB creak. I haven't heard anything and that's one thing I love...and I have been riding it hard. I have a tube and pump in the swat door as well.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

perfectbike said:


> "BB creak - its there already, and I haven't had the bike a week yet... sigh."
> 
> Check the tightness of the rear through axle. Also make sure it isn't the headset. I've had noise from both and solved both so far.


Rode it again last night and it does seem like it might be coming from the rear axle under load. I will check it tonight.


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## perfectbike (Aug 12, 2014)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Rode it again last night and it does seem like it might be coming from the rear axle under load. I will check it tonight.


Yes, just turn the axle lever tighter. I didn't tighten mine enough after a tire swap.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> BB creak - its there already, and I haven't had the bike a week yet... sigh.


I have a new Fuse, maybe same BB?
Anyway, it started to click after the second ride, sounded just like bad bearings. Took it apart , used cap as the puller, and cleaned it up. 
Bearings were fine, it was just dirt in the aluminum spacer and wafer washer.


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

Riders in my area have gobbled up these bikes with more on the fence leaning in. The handling is great, but personally not thrilled with the low BB, not a bad thing just have to remember to time the pedals in some situations. Heard of a few rear hub issues with 10 speed but not with 11 Great ride so far!


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Had a weeks holiday
As I ordered a bike, the shop let me take the demo away
Got new one this arvo

Shot from tracks called Middle Earth
This bike is perfect for our gravelly soils


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Does that trail go through a tree? That's awesome!

The BB creak ended up being the rear axle. Tightened it down a bit more and the noise went away. 

The new one is the rear brake cable tie down. It broke once, so I replaced it with a heavier duty ziptie. Today I took a jump and it broke again, which means the brake cable started bouncing off the rear tire. Got a hairtie (don't ask where), cut it in half, and tied it onto the where the zip tie should go. That held me for the rest of the ride. I will probably keep the hairtie on it and add another ziptie for added security.

Interesting fact: The tires themselves deform before the suspension kicks in. I had someone ride my bike over a small (2") stick, and the tire deformed around the stick and the wheel/suspension barely moved. It basically does away with trail chatter.

Another interesting fact: When leaning around a corner, the tire will start on the edge, then the entire tire will roll to make use of all the tread, then it will revert back to the edge. It looks like ...........:::::;;;;;!!!!!!!!!!!;;;;;;:::::::............ when you corner hard. 

14psi front, 18psi rear.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

What?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

^^^^^^^
Does that trail go through a tree? That's awesome

We have a few trails with ride through trees
Further south there is a drive-thru. South West Oz has some of the biggest species of trees in the world


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

The low BB is typical Specialized. It's what gives these bikes their super planted feel. Dont expect a higher BB any time soon, this isnt Santa Cruz  

I have a Fuse right now and a Highball 29er, any sort of dense rock garden climb section becomes pedal slap kingdom even if youre careful whereas on the Highball that never happens. I have an SWorks 6Fattie on order. Im pretty stoked, I'll never get a "normal" width tire bike again. The Highball is up for sale!

There's no point. Plus tires do everything better. The only downside I see is the tire is a little more susceptible in dense tight rocky areas to be redirected. Lowering tire pressure is a big help, but sometimes a 2.3 fits thru some spots better. But, 99% of the time, the plus tires win.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Talked to Lee with Lee Likes Bikes, and he is a huge fan of Specialized and their low bottom brackets. 

This morning, I had no less than FIVE people stop me and ask me what I was riding... and that was before I got on the trail! On the trail, it is still absolutely breathtaking to me to come hard sideways into a loose corner, throw a foot out and.... just stick. I am getting used the the billygoat climbing and the lack of trail chatter, but that cornering is still unreal. 

I am thinking of getting a Lizardskin chainstay protector and putting it where my hairtie's are. (yes, I am sporting two hairties and two zipties to hold the brakeline on).

Another thing I noticed is the stock grips are actually really nice. They are almost identical to ODI Ruffians, but they have square ridges where your fingertips are for extra grip. I would probably actually replace them with stock grips if I wear them out.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I was having a great ride today, love it in the berms
Went to the car to get a drink and some scum meth- head had broken in
Guess what the only thing they took was
My drink bag with my Staminade and icy cold post ride beer 😂😂😡😡


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

A couple of pretty smart guys I'm acquainted with, one with a Fuse and the other a SJ FSR have put Wheels Manufacturing eccentric bottom brackets on their bikes, rotated them up, and like the results: no noise and fewer pedal strikes. I don't know this for a fact, but it might also help with chain/chainstay clearance if you wanted to run a really small front chainring on the FSR 6Fattie.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Another update:

Did a group ride last night with the "fast" group. Good friend of mine shows up on his brand new 20lb Scott Scale 710 (easily 10lbs less than my bike). Not only was I able to keep up, I ended up dropping the entire group AND I shaved 5 minutes off my lap time (from 40 min to 35 min). Feel bad for my friend...

I think of this bike like an older Mini Cooper: sure they didn't accellerate as fast, but you never had to let off the gas in the corners. Same thing here, you almost never have to use your brakes in the corners. That, coupled with the tires sucking up roots/rocks like they are not there, means that once you get this bike rolling it just doesn't slow down.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Thust: Good review. I have the Fuse and its amazing how little I use the brakes.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

I have a PAID classified running for my bike if you are interested. Comp version for $2899.
2016 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 6Fattie 650B 27.5 - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

I have a paid ad in the Classifieds for a Comp in size medium for sale. $2799.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Where are u - I am interested


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

^^Dang, thats a good deal. Someone should jump on it.


Did another ride tonight (I'm at around 120 miles on it so far?). Some thoughts:

- The two cables that come out of the bottom bracket, the rear brake and rear derailleur, were too tight. I flipped the bike upside down, let all the air out of the rear shock, and compressed it all the way down. With it compressed, I pulled enough slack so that the cables wouldn't bind when I hit a jump. It seemed to have solved the problem. 

- The 28t gear - Too low? I initially thought so, but now I think it might be just about perfect for the 10-42 range. I am never quite in the 42t ring, and I am almost never in the 10t ring... however, I am glad they are there when I need them. The 42t is a nice gear to rest and recover, and the 10t is nice to bomb downhill as fast as humanly possible. Also NO dropped chains whatsoever. (The chainring even reads "Blackbox" - totally cool)

- Climbing? There is a hill we have that used to have a nice 6ft drop jump on it. The trail got rerouted and now its reversed and that hill is a climb. No one here can make it up it - until now. Yes, this bike has done what no one else in this area can do. (ho hum...)

- Cornering - dang, this bike can corner. I have gotten the hang of dropping the seat, leaning the bike, throwing a leg out, and almost (almost) sitting on the seat while the tires are skidding along - no brakes. I feel like Sam Hill sometimes, lol.


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## PretendGentleman (May 24, 2011)

My buddy has really been enjoying his. But it turns out he's been running the shock pressure high. He did autosag and said he clipped his pedals all the time!


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## TubeSSnapper (Nov 15, 2004)

6 week review:
Still totally stoked
My pedals and crank are bashed up beyond belief
Low BB is just right nevertheless
I've ridden the unridable , my confidence and shred factor are pegged.
Narrow rims, maybe,
But only at low psi 
At 18 in back it is awesome, any lower and things get weird.
At 18...forget about it. The bike rips, narrow rims be damned.
Plus the swat box is cool
Plus is the new black


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Just demoed this bike again. I really like it. But it seems like they got the offset wrong on this fork. Anyone else notice that? I rode things on this bike without even thinking that I usually roll up to and think about a few times before even trying. But it feels like the offset is too much?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

TubeSSnapper said:


> 6 week review:
> Still totally stoked
> My pedals and crank are bashed up beyond belief
> Low BB is just right nevertheless
> ...


I had figured that running the tires at a little higher pressure on the skinnier rims would be necessary, at least on the front end, to keep it tracking precisely. Do you find that you get a little low-end undamped rebound when the tires are ballooned like that?


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Just picked my dad up an Expert 6Fatty. He doesn't know about it yet, so he's going to flip out. He's currently on an '07 Stumpy, and it's flat worn out! 

I had him see one of these a few weeks ago, and he loved the larger tires. He doesn't want a fat bike like my Farley, and I think a 29er is too tall for him (63 years old and 5'7") so the 650+ REALLY was appealing! He liked my Fuel and likes my Remedy, but again, the 29" tires just are too tall for him to be comfortable at getting off in the techy stuff.


Now for him to get her all scratched up!


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Multi-tool? I just found out that there is a spot for a multi-tool right above the shock... however, I don't see one there? Can someone else check to see if they have one? (mine mightve fallen out maybe..)


Haven't received it physically yet, but have from the LBS who did check with Specialised, and the comp Carbon fsr 6fattie comes with the multi-tool. Check your packaging


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Hompie said:


> Haven't received it physically yet, but have from the LBS who did check with Specialised, and the comp Carbon fsr 6fattie comes with the multi-tool. Check your packaging


Dad's came with the multi-tool. I'm not 100% convinced it will stay in all the time, so I will probable have him move it into the SWAT door pouch.

I LOVE the chain link under the stem cap, and the chain breaker built into the stem cap bolt/mechanism!


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

DethWshBkr said:


> Just picked my dad up an Expert 6Fatty. He doesn't know about it yet, so he's going to flip out. He's currently on an '07 Stumpy, and it's flat worn out!
> 
> I had him see one of these a few weeks ago, and he loved the larger tires. He doesn't want a fat bike like my Farley, and I think a 29er is too tall for him (63 years old and 5'7") so the 650+ REALLY was appealing! He liked my Fuel and likes my Remedy, but again, the 29" tires just are too tall for him to be comfortable at getting off in the techy stuff.
> 
> Now for him to get her all scratched up!


Isn't the 6fattie just as tall as the 29er? I'm sure he'll love it either way...


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## Chader09 (Aug 14, 2013)

Kinda. Riding wheel/tire height is around 0.5" [13mm] shorter on the 6fattie IIRC.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

DethWshBkr said:


> Dad's came with the multi-tool. I'm not 100% convinced it will stay in all the time, so I will probable have him move it into the SWAT door pouch.
> 
> I LOVE the chain link under the stem cap, and the chain breaker built into the stem cap bolt/mechanism!


Just checked everything again, nothing there. Also, nothing under the stem cap bolt for me... Definitely not a deal breaker though.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I can't wait! Mine is being built now. I originally had an SWorks ordered but had some reserve about components. I like it my way.

Decided on an Expert built to my specs:
Ibis 741 wheels built at the shop with I9 hubs
RaceFace bars
Henge Ti seat
Guide Ultimate brakes
Complete Swap to XX1
On order: Boost Pike.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

I think it's only on carbon ones with the SWAT door.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

You have a comp, or a comp carbon? Looks like a comp carbon to me, if you have the swat door should have received the tools. Anyhow, enjoy


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## Rightcoaster (Dec 25, 2006)

DethWshBkr said:


> I think it's only on carbon ones with the SWAT door.


correct, my comp model has no swat door, nor any of the other hidden treasures...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Finally got out on one of these for a demo day on my regular trails - cleaned some sections that I hadn't before and am searching for a compelling reason not to buy it. It's super stable, borderline uncrashable. I didn't hit any lines that would max-out the travel, but that's just another reason why I need to buy it. 

I ran it with tubes at 15 psi. Traction was noticeably better, and when it gets rolling, it's not unlike a 29er in the way it carries speed. It definitely responds well to aggressive riding, as the wheels carry momentum through difficult lines and are not as well suited to carefully picking a clean line. 

I hit the pedals a bunch, but it was not as bad as I had anticipated and was better than the Fuse in that respect. I did get surprised 3 times when I hit the chainring on relative smallish rocks, but neither this nor the pedal strikes were a deal-breaker, as the bike and I kept rolling along. I'll have to look-out for getting high bridged on stuff, but that just changes my line selection. It won't make much unridable. That 28T crank barely extends below the BB.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

phride said:


> I hit the pedals a bunch, but it was not as bad as I had anticipated and was better than the Fuse in that respect. I did get surprised 3 times when I hit the chainring on relative smallish rocks, but neither this nor the pedal strikes were a deal-breaker, as the bike and I kept rolling along. I'll have to look-out for getting high bridged on stuff, but that just changes my line selection. It won't make much unridable. That 28T crank barely extends below the BB.


From my personal experience if you set the sag properly and the tire pressures low enough to reap the benefits of the design of a "fattie" you will have pedal strikes at an extremely regular level. I've seen people "over airing" the shock and fork to get the BB higher but then the travel has been effectively reduced. It's a huge flaw in the basic function of the bike.

Worst scenario I encountered were gullies where you would semi g-out and have a rocky rooty climb out of the gully. No chance you could pedal coming out of those gullies without a strike. Don't even think of standing up to pedal.

Another potential "fix" would be shorter crank arms. Which shouldn't be needed. Personally I'm moving onto a bike with less travel, higher BB and a better lockout or platform. Even in climb mode with a over-aired shock and fork the bike is still too low.

However my guess is that most of these bikes will have strike issues simply because they mostly are using 29er front triangles matched with tires that are quite a bit less in overall diameter than 29er tires due to their smaller OD and magnified by lower pressure which further reduces the effective OD. In closing, I really want to ride a plus bike but this isn't the one for me and I'm not sure this first wave has it sorted out.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I think you're right that they don't have it fully sorted-out yet. There are other FS bikes coming along with higher BB's - Cannondale's Bad Habit, Scott's Genius Plus, but most of them are about a centimeter lower than the lowest riding 29ers or 27.5s. That's a good thing in many situations, however, and given that I'm coming from a mid-1990s hardtail, it's not so different (and I'm disinclined to wait another year for the next attempt).


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I agree it isn't fully sorted but I think that even partially sorted it's a pretty game changing ride for me


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## yxan (Oct 3, 2008)

Plusforever said:


> From my personal experience if you set the sag properly and the tire pressures low enough to reap the benefits of the design of a "fattie" you will have pedal strikes at an extremely regular level. I've seen people "over airing" the shock and fork to get the BB higher but then the travel has been effectively reduced. It's a huge flaw in the basic function of the bike.
> 
> Worst scenario I encountered were gullies where you would semi g-out and have a rocky rooty climb out of the gully. No chance you could pedal coming out of those gullies without a strike. Don't even think of standing up to pedal.
> 
> ...


but you are selling it and buying an S-works model according to your ad?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I like the added stability that the lower BB gives, so I can live with the random pedal strike. From experience: don't try to pedal in a corner, lol.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

^^^ Im with you on that! A low BB and 3" tires makes dusty flat corners feel like nicely shaped berms!


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

I also don't mind the slightly lower ride. Does anyone else's calves hit the seat stays while pedaling? I'm on old Mallets now and I'm wondering if going to the Mallet DH's will help that. The DH's have 5mm longer spindle.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

I'm hitting the chainstays. I think you may call it the seat stays. The wide ones from the back wheel to the seat post.


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## Roy75 (Oct 21, 2015)




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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

I've looked into getting one of these and have a question about the fork. 

The fork is 150mm which is great but it is missing the 20 clicks of compression in open mode that it has on afternarket models & other bike brands with lower travel.

It does say fit4 but does this fork have the other improvements the 2016 F34 has like the air equalization for small bump compliance.


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## Roy75 (Oct 21, 2015)

That's my FSR6F comp with Hope Pro 2 Evo Boost hubs and WTB Scraper rims (tubeless done), Thomson stem and handlebar, XX1 carbon crank with Crankbrothers DH Mallet.. Blackspire bash guard.. XTR brake with Shimano XT IceTech 220/180 rotor.. A blast to ride..:thumbsup:


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Im still on the fence on what fatty to get. Not sure I want a hard tail or fully. I test rode a fuse, stumpy, and stache. The fuse felt real peppy and fun while the stumpy felt sluggish/tiring and the front end seemed way higher than back. Stumpy kinda had a chopper feel to it. Didnt care too much for the stache. Just felt too big and awkward. Id like to test the steel jamis dragon slayer, but havent seen one yet in the shops. Sorry for the rant. Ha.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Funny, I felt that the Stumpy was just as peppy and offered more, but my testing included some pretty extensive rock gardens where the rear suspension made things much more workable. The Stumpy does have a bit of a chopper geometry to it, but it didn't have too light a front end, like I would have expected from that, so it handled quite nicely. 

The Cannondale Bad Habit should be in shops in November. Their first shipment is all pre-sold, but some of those pre-sales are bikes that LBSs ordered as demo models. The Norco Torrent is coming-out in December, and the DeVinci Hendrix and Salsa Pony Rustler follow in January. I'm not sure about the Jamis release data, but there are going to be lots of options out there soon.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Yep tons of options. Will probably make a decision this winter.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have surfed for 40 years and it has been my number one passion.
The Fattie 6 has me wishing for no swell, onshore weekends, so I can go ride guilt free.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Test rode one yesterday. After my last 500 or so miles being on a 37 pound fat bike this is breath of fresh air. Medium frame weighed in at 30.5 lbs, loved the shorter chainstays, felt great. Can't wait till I can afford it.


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## Kuttermax (Sep 4, 2011)

Cody01 said:


> Test rode one yesterday. After my last 500 or so miles being on a 37 pound fat bike this is breath of fresh air. Medium frame weighed in at 30.5 lbs, loved the shorter chainstays, felt great. Can't wait till I can afford it.


Any issues with pedal strikes when you rode it?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Cody01 said:


> Test rode one yesterday. After my last 500 or so miles being on a 37 pound fat bike this is breath of fresh air. Medium frame weighed in at 30.5 lbs, loved the shorter chainstays, felt great. Can't wait till I can afford it.


Was that 30.5 lbs for the Comp model, or one of the higher-end models?


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

With the BB30 is possible to switch to a normal 24mm crankset and use a BB30 eccentric adapter for change the BB height and chainstay length too. Like this one for example:

https://wheelsmfg.com/eccentric-bottom-bracket-for-bb30-24mm-shimano-cranks-red.html


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Today after work i just bought and Expert 6fattie, after many bike rentals at Over the Edge bikes in Hurricane, and Absolute Bikes and Bike and Bean in Sedona, and many pleasant hours browsing on the internet.

I didn't Demo the Stumpjumper 6fattie. Honestly I had ruled out Specialized from the beginning of the search for a new bike for all the reasons others mentioned on this site, including business practices and some personal experiences. However I always respected Special Eds products, and hold their quality in the highest regard.

The 2016 Pivot Mach 6 and the Bronson were my favorites. But I really wanted a 650+ , at least that was the thinking going in. I concluded that 2018 will be a good year when wider rear triangles become ubiquitous. I can't wait. 

The Rocky Mountain Sherpa and the Salsa Horsethief were bikes that convinced me the plus thing was going to work very well. The Sherpa is a great bike! I tried to order a Pony Rustler Carbon bike but I was told that preorders had spoken for the majority and that some would make it to dealers much later. I did like Horsethief's Split Pivot suspension. It had a very launch-able feel manual off drop off and happy landing capacity. But I was pretty certain more travel would be better. So I was thinking the Pony Rustler would be a good choice, an maybe I would wait for next year.

Just for the experience I did rent a Buck Saw for a day. That was a ton of fun! I have a Mukluk1 since 2013, and have ridden it many places I never imagined I could until the Mukluk1 showed me how. And the real fat tire movement did start this after all, didn't it? I have ridden pretty much the panoply of trails and surfaces on the Mukluk1 and distances and climbing over the years, and have not been punished, and still kept up with the group on climbs and sometimes dominating descents. However, scary moments in entrenched single track, and uncontrollably hellacious rebound in rowdy braking bumps, and weird self steering compensation techniques, as well of course, the Titanic mass, are real challenges for the dedicated fat biker on dirt. The Bucksaw was fabulous, especially on the sands of the Prospector Trail where it blazed the Sandy sections using the sand as a passing lane much to the chagrin of biking buddies.

Around my home I usually single speed the hills and commute on CX bike. The 6fattie will be the big gun in my quiver.

I have yet to ride the new bike.

What sold me? Well I have to say that the SWAT gimmick was the cream on top. SWAT appeals for the ability to hop on and go. Bikeset up with repair gear and Water on board to ride with it a pack spontaneously or be ready for an epic was best practice for me. The down tube storage area really appeals to me. The 2016 Fox 34 was not a plus, at first. I enjoyed the Pike fork much better than the Fox on the demos. But I learned that Fox has fought back with Fit 4 and is lighter. Then, of course, the 135/150 travel configuration was getting my attention! Finally my search included Horst link bikes by other brands, and the Norco and Whyte bikes were extremely attractive as well. In fact I was very close to buying a Whyte G-160 in aluminum. I am certain it would be great. The down side when it came down to it was that the rear tire clearance could not fit a 2.7. As well, I could tell from test rides, that carbon is more rigid, enhancing climbing. The G-160 is single chainring only, which is not a bummer, but it has a 32 on it. Yeah that's easy to swap. But I paid attention to that spec by Special Ed because it showed to me that they were building this for someone like me. I like to clean technical climbs. As well, the big rotor up front is the right way, whereas so many other bikes come with same/same rotor size. These nice little things signaled the idea that if they make good decisions, choices I like, then the really core important stuff will be of at least the same caliber.

I have had FSR bikes from Special Ed, Intense, and Titus in the past. These were good, for their eras.Then I went to a BMC, which is a VPP type of suspension .The BMC I used to ride climbed great, and quelled thoughts of ever getting back on an FSR.

But many many years have elapsed, and today it looks like FSR is more dialed and refined, and I expect to be delighted. I love climbing.

The obvious negatives of the 6fattie include narrower than market desired rims. We shall see. I figure if anything these Rovals will make a good second wheelset for different tires. The Command Post seatdropper has a bit of play. I was surprised an allow bar was specced. For the price it deserves carbon! Feel like I am not getting love on that.

And of course there is the love-hate low bottom bracket issue. To this point I fall back on my experience with the Horsethief. It has a low BB and riding on Gooseberry Mesa I immediately scored some pedal fouls, but somehow I quickly adapted to the situation, and stopped hitting them.

The Wheels eccentric BB mentioned above presents more options perhaps. I am not sure about how well this will play with the Boost 148.

I needed a bike for this upcoming weekend. I sold the BMC for peanuts at a bike swap last weekend and I think the Mukluk1 (or the hardtail)!¡ could be dangerous on some parts of the Sherman Pass-Cannell Trail. 

With tubes and resin pedals this bike is at 28.5 pounds. We'll see what it weighs tubeless.

Like that it comes with a bottle cage too.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Well, that sure sounds like an indirect easy to apply careful research to select a bike. I hope it fits.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Apart from my own judgement I had a certified fit analysis done in the shop which confirms that it is the right size frame. Of course I am going to pay attention to how it feels. Perhaps another handlebar/stem may improve it. Saddle fore and aft adjustment and sorting out preload and settings require fettling.

One of my bike shop friends has a saying, " Some people are adapters, and others aren't." I tend to be more of an adapter, which is not always good thing. Because of that trait I need to be active in critical analysis, otherwise I will just have a good time.


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## BikeSATORI (Mar 20, 2004)

Jack Burns said:


> I will just have a good time.


Well said.
I'm doing this today.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> Funny, I felt that the Stumpy was just as peppy and offered more, but my testing included some pretty extensive rock gardens where the rear suspension made things much more workable. The Stumpy does have a bit of a chopper geometry to it, but it didn't have too light a front end, like I would have expected from that, so it handled quite nicely.
> 
> The Cannondale Bad Habit should be in shops in November. Their first shipment is all pre-sold, but some of those pre-sales are bikes that LBSs ordered as demo models. The Norco Torrent is coming-out in December, and the DeVinci Hendrix and Salsa Pony Rustler follow in January. I'm not sure about the Jamis release data, but there are going to be lots of options out there soon.


And, Foes Racing - Alpine Plus - Mtbr.com


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Kuttermax said:


> Any issues with pedal strikes when you rode it?


I will say that, on mine, I got a lot of pedal strikes when I first bought it. I have since gotten to understand when and where I should pedal or ratchet or keep the pedals level when I ride (basically, I got a feel for about when my pedals would strike).

With anything else, you will get used to it. I wouldn't let it stop you from buying one.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

I didn't have pedal strike because I was on pavement. On a side note it is funny how many people act like 1/2" inch in either direction is a total deal breaker for a bike. There are times where low and high both can benefit a rider but really, 1/2" either way isn't the end of the world. People act like the 1/2" that it actually is about a foot instead.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Rode the 6fattie in Kernville's this weekend. Did Sherman Pass, Cannell Trail and Plunge Saturday, and Unal, Just Outstanding, and Wagy Ridge, Sunday.

Great big terrain perfect for testing the new bike!

Comments in no order of importance:

1. FSR is great overall especially when braking.
2. FSR squats a bit and is not as naturally poppy as DW and VPP designs.
3. Bottom bracket does feel threateningly low on technical climbs.
4. Minimalist grips are too thin.
5. Dropper post lever is almost perfect to use, and encourages frequent, active use.
6. Fox fork is going to need some time to break in and for me to learn how to adjust it better.
7. The auto sag on the rear shock worked perfectly for me, and the rear travel felt excellent.
8. The 3" tires work incredibly well.
9. I couldn't feel any negative feedback from tire squirm. I eventually went to 15 psi and it was good.
10. A front wheel radial spoke broke at the hub near the top of Just Outstanding riding fast over whoopdee doos. After that the wheel wobble went pretty bad and I descended a lot of steep technical terrain like that. Just have to wonder about the strength of these wheels.
10a. Perhaps related, I heard clicks or creaking coming from the front of the bike, when climbing, before the spoke broke, and that sound was probably from the wheels and spokes.
11. The headset loosened up.
12. The SWAT features work really well. 
13. The bike pinned the Plunge like no other I have ever ridden there. Strava awarded me a cup for 3rd best time this year on the Plunge section. I don't consider myself that fast. it is probably the bike.,
14. Easily the most capable bike I have ever ridden or owned.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

My dad has a few rides on his now.

He is 63, 150 lb. Bike is medium frame.

First ride out, suspension was WAY to stiff. The Autosag set him at roughly 215 psi. I have settled out with 145-150 psi as his good pressure in the rear. I think we are at 80 psi in the front, but he is not yet using a solid 20-25mm of travel, so I need to adjust that for him.
He had been running fork and shock in OPEN mode, but I started talking to him about the settings, and we put the Open mode compression adjuster to 2 on the shock, and about 8 clicks stiffer in the front. He did notice a much more "controllable" feeling. 
Tires, I started him at 18 psi, and he was letting air out the first ride. I checked when we got back, and he was at 14/14.5 front and rear. Last time we rode, we did not have a gauge to set it, so it was too much air, and he was just letting air out again. He said he thought the tires were too stiff still, but I checked after we got home, and he was down to 10 psi. We BOTH had crappy feeling rides last time, and we BOTH had lower tire pressures than normal, so I would say right now, 14 psi is good for him.
I agree with the post above - the SWAT truly is neat. No saddle bags (dad does not wear a Camelbak) so he can store all sorts of stuff in the frame. He uses it for keys and tools. Best friggin' thing ever in my opinion. We DID remove the allen wrenches from above the shock, and put them in the SWAT door. I don't trust them to stay in the frame on the really rocky stuff.

He used the bike at a downhill place, and had nothing but good to say about the bike. I really do see the "Plus" tires as an incredible platform. If I had $$$ to burn, I'd get a set of 27.5+ wheels for my Remedy 29er. This width is EXCELLENT, and not TOO wide for some tech stuff. My Farley with 3.8" tires is a bit wide for that riding I find.

Dropper post - he has actually been using it a little bit. That surprises me, but he has been moving it. Big complaint I have about that post - ZERO return damping! I am used to my Reverb, and when I was riding it around a little (it's too small for me, so this was just "parking lot" riding, that sucker came and SLAMMED my rear end. Had I been leaning forward a bit - the wife could have written off getting pregnant this month!

Dad HAS had a number of crank/pedal strikes, and seems to be commenting he is hitting the ground more often than he is used to. He does have "crank condoms" on the ends of the arms, so at least he is protecting the carbon cranks. 

I was concerned the 28 tooth front chainring would be way too low for him, but he has not spun out yet (seems like 25 mph would be a spin-out speed). 

Every time he goes out on the bike, he likes it more and more. I'll keep making some adjustments and see if we can really dial it in, but it's a sweet machine!


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

SWAT comments: 

The Allen key set has to be folded up "just so" in the one proper manner, and inserted into the frame "just so" or it won't fit properly.

There's a plastic square on one side. This square frame shape must face downwards and it's what your index finger presses on and pulls on to extract the tool.

I had the tool inserted properly in the frame and it held on for the entire descent from Sherman Pass. No rattles. I used the tool along the way. So convenient!

It has earned my trust.

I wore a minimalist Camelbak because sipping to keep a wet whistle is good, and it is a bit of armor for the spine. So on the first day I put a spare tube and pump in a Jersey pocket.

On the second day I put the tube and pump in the down tube. I had some difficulty fitting the tube into the provided cloth case. I didn't give it much thought though and I may have left some air in the tube. They are big. It was not easy to get it crammed in and I wondered if there was air in there and you went up in altitude after you stowed it, the package could become so tightly wedged it might not come out.

I have a small pump which fit well. There was no rattle.

But I was wondering if CO2 cartridges are required. So much volume and tubeless issues.

Command Post:

It does rebound powerfully. I was using a Gravity Dropper before. Both have a fast powerful return, and I am used to that. It has never hurt me.

Tire pressure:

I have a presta Accu-Gage that goes to 30psi which I use with my Mukluk. It is kind of heavy to take on the trail, but I do. I am not sure it is accurate. I will need to do some comparisons. Perhaps a digital gauge is better?


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

You can let a little air out of your Command Post if you like. Also, I'm not sure of the tube size you put in your down tube, but you can put a 26" normal tube in, it'll get you out of the woods fine.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

That's a great idea to keep a smaller spare tube. I have some thin 26" 2.5 tubes around which would save a lot of weight and space. Also I want to look into those tubeless repair kits. 

I like the fast return on the seat post. To me, the quicker the better, because the terrain changes just as quick.


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

I think the Accu-Gage is the best gauge for low pressure tires. The way that it seals with its long tube is more secure than any digital gauge I've used.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Mitch Ropelato on the Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 6Fattie - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB

Mitch Ropalato, ladies and gentlemen.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Welnic said:


> I think the Accu-Gage is the best gauge for low pressure tires. The way that it seals with its long tube is more secure than any digital gauge I've used.


I'd add that digital gauges provide a false sense of accuracy. Having a gauge for which your target pressure is in the middle of the range is the way to get the greatest accuracy. A digital gauge that goes to 120 psi is not giving you as accurate a measurement when it says 14.7 psi, as would an analog gauge that goes to 30 psi, when it says 15 psi.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

That is encouraging to hear since my Accu-Gage goes to 30psi and my target is probably going to be near 15 psi.

I had the shop replace my broken front radial side spoke. Dropped it off Monday eve. I am pretty sure I had 15/16 psi in the tires on Monday. Now the tires are 8/12 psi. So the big tires air down. But maybe the drop in elevation has something to do with that. Tubeless.

We talked about the spoke break. When it broke I was at the end of a long section of big whoop dee dooze that I was pre-jumping in a pumping motion with the seat down as fast as I could. At the end there was a big bermed left hander that I had to slow down for. I can't remember if the spoke broke when I brakes and turned, or before. But it does seem like I might have been on the brakes.

In any case, I am sure that my behavior on the bike wasn't unusual. It is a let down to have a spoke blow on your second ride!

This was on the trail called Just Outstanding in the Kernville area.

I will keep an eye on this.

For sure I did read the skepticism people had about Specialized rim choice. But the concerns are mostly about width. I seems like the wheels are really light. Maybe too light. Radial on the right and 2 cross on the rotor side is minimal. I understand.

As far as handling goes, the tires really grip, and I have no complaints. If or when I get a different wheel and a wider rim, I will be able to make a comparison. But right now, I was blown away by how well the tires ride, and how nimble they felt. 

This Saturday plans include some really rocky ledgy lava conditions, fast, slow, steep, and chunky. Fingers crossed!


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

I just got back from Sedona in which I got 2 days on a Stumpy 6Fattie, I own a Fuse right now. The Stumpy is phenomenal. Its been a very long time since Ive been impressed with a bike. Especially in chutey, tight punchy singletrack climbs with rocks and roots along the upper walls of the chute, it's just perfect. I applaud Specialguys for sticking with a narrower rim unlike everyone whos panic stricken about them not having 4030mm wide rims. The round profile of the tire allows the bike to dive hard into turns, have grip in off camber situations and still be plenty fast on the flats. My one complaint, the 28t chainring.

Coincidentally, two days into my trip, I got an email alert that my SWorks Stumpy 6Fattie finally is on its way and will be arriving Friday, 2 months ahead of the expected date!


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Can someone please elaborate on the differences in the front and rear shocks between the Carbon Comp and the Carbon Expert? I can't decide, I think ultimately I'm better served by the specs of the Comp but I'm worried about not being happy and wanting to upgrade down the road.

If it matters, after a year I'll be getting the shocks Push'd.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I've gotten in three rides now, so I figured I should offer-up a review. Short version: I love the bike, and it is clear that I will be riding much more than I had in the past 12 years. 

The bike: FSR 6Fattie Comp, M frame, stock setup, tubeless tires. 

Me: Slow, old guy, who likes technical stuff (or at least the idea of it these days) and now have a bike that has courage enough for both of us. 5’10” with 31” inseam, 175#. 

The bike's cockpit is short, but it’s upright, and that makes it a good fit for my bad back. It’s a different setup to which I’m accustomed, but it definitely works and should be a better position for running higher gears and flats than the more stretched-out, spin-the-pedals position that I developed over the decades on road bikes. I'm upgrading a mid-90s hardtail with a ~70mm fork, so I was going to be happy regardless, but I'm thrilled with the fat tires, the geometry, and the spec. I haven't yet used full supsension, but I'm getting closer, and I do intend to keep riding the bike harder and harder. 

I’m running the bike at 20%/15% (R/F) sag, after running it 30%/20% for the demo. This has probably helped limit pedal strikes, but I’ve been surprisingly quick to adapt. I am putting a taco bashguard on, as I’ve rung the chainring on small boulders a few times. The low BB requires more pedal ratcheting, so I can see myself upgrading the wheels at some point to something with more POE - probably wider too, although I haven't had any complaints about the tire performance yet. I may sag out the bike a little more to see if it hooks-up better on the bony stuff with more negative travel available. 

The bike is quick and nimble, despite a 29erish wheel base. The short chainstay probably helps with this, but I was surprised how easily I adapted from a 26er. Not having to pick as precise a line with the fatter tires and supple suspension obviously helps. 

The slack geometry of modern bikes is awesome. I'm riding steep, long rolls that scare me instinctively, but which I know the bike craves. I just trust the equipment and let it feast on the steep and rough stuff. I’ve stopped at the crux of a couple rollovers where I didn’t have the right line, and even with my weight in front of the seat and one foot down, I was able to step on the pedals and roll the steep backside of the rock without concern. I've take one good tumble down a wall, but I forgot to lower the dropper and got too braky in a washout where leaves hid a babyhead. It was steep enough that I launched and rolled down the hill into a tree. I need to remind myself to trust the bike, but also to use it right. 

Despite getting dropped on a bunch of climbs by some XC riders (due to shortcomings of the rider not the bike), I’d often catch-up by simply laying-off the brake on the downhill. I haven’t really figured out the limits of the tire traction, as I’m still dialing-in the tire pressures and learning to use the dropper properly. I’m pretty sure that I can take this further out of my comfort zone on high speed corners and not leave the trail. The traction is generally amazing. I’m riding-up steep, loose stuff that is stopping the faster guys on skinnier-tire bikes, going right through their spin-out ruts as they hiked-a-bike to the top without any loss of traction. 

My one complaint, I broke both pedals today. They're nylon, so it's no surprise, and I knew I'd be getting some better flats eventually, but today was the first really bony ride, and they didn't survive two hours. This wasn't a low pedal strike issue. This was simply clipping the stuff that I rode by. The first one I didn't even notice, so I'm unimpressed with their durability, but I was planning to upgrade that anyways.

Did I mention that I love the bike and will be riding it a lot? Specialized really outfitted the FSR 6Fattie right.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Haha. Good review. Those are "test ride" pedals man. Can't complain about that!!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Yeah. I was hoping that they'd last until my new pedals came in. I'd even heard somebody here say that they were reasonably durable, so UI thought I'd offer a bit of NE reality to that notion.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

I love mine to. Never used the nylons, had specialized boomslangs installed day 1. Coming from Saints my first impression was not the bike, but how annoyingly grippy the boomslangs were and had to get used to them more then the bike. I scratched them on the first ride offcourse.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

HilltopSteve said:


> I just got back from Sedona in which I got 2 days on a Stumpy 6Fattie, I own a Fuse right now. The Stumpy is phenomenal. Its been a very long time since Ive been impressed with a bike. Especially in chutey, tight punchy singletrack climbs with rocks and roots along the upper walls of the chute, it's just perfect. I applaud Specialguys for sticking with a narrower rim unlike everyone whos panic stricken about them not having 4030mm wide rims. The round profile of the tire allows the bike to dive hard into turns, have grip in off camber situations and still be plenty fast on the flats. My one complaint, the 28t chainring.
> 
> Coincidentally, two days into my trip, I got an email alert that my SWorks Stumpy 6Fattie finally is on its way and will be arriving Friday, 2 months ahead of the expected date!
> 
> View attachment 1026653


Hilltop, what was it about the 28T that you didn't like?

Thanks for the review, and cool pic!


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

[I'm running the bike at 20%/15% (R/F) sag, after running it 30%/20% for the demo.]

So, are you using the travel as designed or not even close? How far are the o-rings moving with that sag setup?


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

@HilltopSteve
Would like your opinion on the weight difference from the Fuse. 
Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Plusforever said:


> [I'm running the bike at 20%/15% (R/F) sag, after running it 30%/20% for the demo.]
> 
> So, are you using the travel as designed or not even close? How far are the o-rings moving with that sag setup?


Yes, but it's on the firm side. Specialized recommends 20-30% and 15-20% sag R/F. I think a smoother ride could be had at a softer setting, but that would compromise the up-and-over clearance. I'll play around with that more after I get the bashguard installed.

I haven't come close to bottoming out travel on either end, moving the O-ring to ~125R/140F, but I haven't really pushed things yet.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Jack Burns said:


> I like the fast return on the seat post. To me, the quicker the better, because the terrain changes just as quick.


I agree 100%. I want it to return immediately so that I can transition more quickly



HilltopSteve said:


> I applaud Specialguys for sticking with a narrower rim unlike everyone whos panic stricken about them not having 4030mm wide rims. The round profile of the tire allows the bike to dive hard into turns, have grip in off camber situations and still be plenty fast on the flats.


if you don't mind my asking, how heavy are you?



phride said:


> My one complaint, I broke both pedals today.


Specialized Bennies are pretty awesome, just FYI.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

phride said:


> Yes, but it's on the firm side. Specialized recommends 20-30% and 15-20% sag R/F. I think a smoother ride could be had at a softer setting, but that would compromise the up-and-over clearance. I'll play around with that more after I get the bashguard installed.
> 
> I haven't come close to bottoming out travel on either end, moving the O-ring to ~125R/140F, but I haven't really pushed things yet.


What we are seeing (and I saw also on my 6Fattie) is that if you setup the bike to use the designed travel the bike doesn't work. Unless you are on buff singletrack. Worst scenario is on abrupt small climbs with roots or rocks. You try to put down some power and you are too low...dismount. It's a byproduct of using the 29er front triangle and the fact that the overall diameter of a 27.5x3.0 tire is not as large as a 29er tire (especially at lower pressure). And...Specialized added 10mm to the fork on the 6Fattie versus the 29er to likely raise the BB a touch. Which isn't enough in my opinion. It will be interesting to see how other Plus bikes fare. I suppose the BB height will be a huge indicator. The Scott looks better on paper (335-340mm or 345mm LT versus 6Fattie 331mm) and has an option to raise the BB also. Haven't checked the Pony Rustler specs (not published, well BB drop is published).


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I disagree that it doesn't work


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The bike works like this, but it might be improved with a little softer touch. I'm not getting much pedal smack, and have quickly remembered how to ratchet extensively. A higher-end rear hub might be nice, but I haven't yet missed an up on account of the limited POE on the stock wheels. When the chain ring is protected with a bash guard, I'll sag it out a bit more to see how much difference that makes. I'm pretty happy with how the rear shock is setup. That won't really lower the BB more than a couple mms. In fact, the total difference between my setup and as plush as can be recommended is less than a cm, so I'm not that concerned that the bike will have me dragging my toes on the ground. 

I have looked into the other models and tried to back-calculate an effective BB height, using manufacturer recommended sag settings and BB drop specs, assuming that the plus wheels at proper operating pressures have similar heights. The Pony Rustler and the DeVinci Hendrix are pretty similar to the 6Fattie, maybe even a bit lower. The Scott and the Bad Habit are about 1 cm higher, but that's it. Even those ride 1-1.5 cm lower than most 27.5s and 29ers. 

I don't put much stock in the adjustable BB height for eastern riding. I can see flipping a chip after a 2,000 foot climb, so your bike is dialed for the up and the down, but I'd far rather have the slack angle than higher clearance for the rolling rocky hills of NE, when it's not practical to switch things out everytime you change vertical direction. I don't think we see a FS 27.5+ with a BB comparable to the non-plus bikes until 2017. The trend is too far in the other direction, and retooling to make yet another carbon mold for a plus-specific front triangle is a big commitment for a new market that is scooping-up the low BB models faster than they can be released.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Yar she blows! Heavy pig, 28 lbs tubeless with XT pedals and all SWAT on the bike.

The wheels are stupid light though, does not feel like a 30 lb bike at all. Im awaiting a 32t ring. The 28t is not for me.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Dam nice bike. Wish I had 9 grand laying around.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I've demoed a 6fattie a couple times now, set it up just like my trail bike and I think the bike is PERFECT. Raise the BB and your ruin that nice low slung corner ripping feel the bike currently has.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Soooo are you guys like pedalling thru rock gardens? Do you pump thru like you're supposed to, and ratchet if needed?

After all this serious talk about nylon test pedals, I'm just gonna assume that I'll be fine with the BB height. I've ridden bikes with low BB's before (per other rider reports) and I've been fine.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I have demoed the 6fattie twice and ridden some fairly technical trails. Rock ledges and gardens and you name it. It's definitely low. But I was able to ride things I hadn't been able to ride before. I felt nearly invincible on the bike. I did catch myself adjusting for pedal strikes. But it's just an adjustment. No big. Will it get better if the frame was purpose made for 6fattie? Maybe? But don't know.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

69tr6r said:


> Hilltop, what was it about the 28T that you didn't like?
> 
> Thanks for the review, and cool pic!


Small rings dont allow for any torque whatsoever. I rode my santa cruz singlespeed for a looong time on a 34/19 combo and before that a Surly set up SS. I just prefer the thrust you get from larger rings, especially on obstacles. I found myself in the tallest 4 cogs almost my entire time on the 6fattie Comp.



trailnimal said:


> @HilltopSteve
> Would like your opinion on the weight difference from the Fuse.
> Thanks


The fuse expert I own is 32lbs, the Stumpy 6fattie was about 31. My Sworks is 28 fully loaded up.



sgtrobo said:


> if you don't mind my asking, how heavy are you?


Im 6'0 and 180.



stumpynerd said:


> Dam nice bike. Wish I had 9 grand laying around.


Working at a shop has its perks lol!  Except, the catch 22, no time to ride :nonod:


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

XJaredX said:


> Soooo are you guys like pedalling thru rock gardens? Do you pump thru like you're supposed to, and ratchet if needed?
> 
> After all this serious talk about nylon test pedals, I'm just gonna assume that I'll be fine with the BB height. I've ridden bikes with low BB's before (per other rider reports) and I've been fine.


The 6 Fattie is lower than any bike you've seen. The listed BB height of 331mm is for an unsagged bike with fully inflated tires. Fully sagged with 15 psi in the tires, the bb height is just under 11 inches. That's a full inch lower than most bikes that you've heard people say have low BBs. The pedal clearance is less than 4 inches at this height. My solution is to ride better, turn a bigger gear, and ratchet as well as the stock hubs will allow (and then upgrade the rear wheel). The payback on the steep off-Camber stuff is worth it. I'm overconfident, if anything, with a bike that rides downhill better than I do.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Hey dudes,

And dudettes, I now have the 3rd ride on my 6fattie under my belt, and it was on technical terrain. The ride was on the Oat Hill Mine Trail area above Calistoga California. This is a place I know well, since the 90's, and ridden in quite a few different old bikes over the years.

So as far as the low bottom bracket issue and everything else, today's ride was a good test. The rock is some knobby ass lava old mining road fallen into a fine decreptitude. Plus there are other trails. Less said the better.

Pedal strikes on the not so new carbon cranks did resound! Yes but, holy Schmidt, there is a lot of compensation going on in other areas! Overall, my experience today was incredibly good. The Oat Hill Mine is all about rocks and steep step up moves. Yes, the BB is as low as you can go without ruining the ride. Yet the this comes with a great capability uphill

To step up, manuals over gaps and holes, and whomping up boulders, is


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

IMHO the 28t chainring is good for me and the terrain I will be riding on.

As a certified single speeder myself, I will attest that the gearing is good. Sure, the top end is not there. But to make the steepest stuff, and moves, which the huge traction the big tires bring, the low gears are nice, particularly when things get soft.


The steep sandy climbs of the Wagy trail showed me that the bike can climb them, where others walk.

The saddle is great too.

I didn't use the lowest gear much though. 

Today on Oat Hill the bike added huge confidence to the capability. Really playful, and opened up new lines and possibilities. Holds a line.

The bars could be wider.

On the tight steep single track switchbacks, both up and down, of today's ride, the bike did really well. I was afraid this could be a weakness, but no, the bike was better than my old BMC fourstroke by a huge amount.

In fact the bike made me feel like a super hero and my riding friends were amazed by the crap I was riding over up and down.

The front wheel held together.

My big problem is a creak which comes from the front of the bike, so it seems. I am wondering about greasing the the headset cups and reinstalling. 

Loving the seat dropper system more.

Might need a chainring guard.

Still not getting full travel out of front suspension.

Played with shock pressure settings. So far, the best pressure on the rear is what the auto sag says. Although I could see riding with it over pressurized could work if you didn't want rear suspension. That doesn't make sense. I will ride with the auto sag setting 98 times out of 100 I bet.

Was wondering how the bike would be with Scraper rims and Fat Be Nimble tires. The bigger tires would raise the BB.

As is, the Roval wheels and Specialized tires are amazing. The rounded big tread meat does provide side grip. Someone else noticed that here. Today's ride was really extreme and the traction made everything a pleasure and inspiring.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> The 6 Fattie is lower than any bike you've seen. The listed BB height of 331mm is for an unsagged bike with fully inflated tires. Fully sagged with 15 psi in the tires, the bb height is just under 11 inches. That's a full inch lower than most bikes that you've heard people say have low BBs. The pedal clearance is less than 4 inches at this height. My solution is to ride better, turn a bigger gear, and ratchet as well as the stock hubs will allow (and then upgrade the rear wheel). The payback on the steep off-Camber stuff is worth it. I'm overconfident, if anything, with a bike that rides downhill better than I do.


Foes Mutz (also on my radar) is 330 mm. 
Foes Mutz | Fatbike By Foes Racing USA | Foes Racing


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

> Originally Posted by 69tr6r
> Hilltop, what was it about the 28T that you didn't like?
> 
> "Small rings dont allow for any torque whatsoever. I rode my santa cruz singlespeed for a looong time on a 34/19 combo and before that a Surly set up SS. I just prefer the thrust you get from larger rings, especially on obstacles."


Hilltop
For a given sprocket in back cassette, the smaller chainring up front delivers more torque - not less - to the back wheel.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Was wondering how the bike would be with Scraper rims and Fat Be Nimble tires.[/QUOTE said:


> curious about future wheelset options as well.


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## HHL (Nov 24, 2004)

The weights shouldn't surprise or disappoint. I have a Fuze Pro, 27 lbs tubeless, no dropper, stock wheels. When the carbon 38's come out, that will help. The comparison of fatties with droppers to the skinny rimmed and tired no-dropper bikes of the last few years is apples to oranges. Secondly, there are also easy ways to modify air shock performance such that you get proper sag and good progression. Thirdly, I wouldn't judge or expect my favorite width handllebar on any bike. I have narrow shoulders and the wide bars you big boys like would be ridiculously unmanageable for me. The rise in a bar is of a personal nature as well. Almost all bikes have to be personalized a little bit, to include the bars. One final note, the Fuze and the SJ Fattie do handle a little bit differently, in spite of their similarities. For me, even with the longer chainstays, longer top tube and same head tube angle, the Fuze is more maneuverable. I haven't been in any chunk with it yet, but if pedal strikes prove to be more of an irritant, I will get a Wheels Ind. eccentric bottom bracket and raise bb height about 1/2."


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## toddflaska (Nov 8, 2015)

*Stumpjumper 6 fattie with 29 wheels*

I am looking to buy a 6 fattie comp and want to run both 3.0 and 29 2.4. I would live to hear from someone who has done this.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

toddflaska said:


> I am looking to buy a 6 fattie comp and want to run both 3.0 and 29 2.4. I would live to hear from someone who has done this.


Don't look to much into it. A 6fattie with 29er wheels will be a Stumpy 29er!


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Jack B, on Scrapers, the FatBNimbles surprisingly only measure to 2.9. Theyre awfully distant from their advertised size.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Hilltop
> For a given sprocket in back cassette, the smaller chainring up front delivers more torque - not less - to the back wheel.


??? How do you figure? It takes more power to spin a 50/15 than it does a 30/15.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

HilltopSteve said:


> Jack B, on Scrapers, the FatBNimbles surprisingly only measure to 2.9. Theyre awfully distant from their advertised size.


Well that's good info! Those tires are light too. Well, not a bad thing to try. I did a great ride today and every inch and lug of those tires on the 66fattie just ruled.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Jack Burns said:


> Well that's good info! Those tires are light too. Well, not a bad thing to try. I did a great ride today and every inch and lug of those tires on the 66fattie just ruled.


Light yes! Paper thin and puncture if you stare at them wrong? Yes yes! They don't like sealing up either. You have to be very very careful with them. I have them on my fuse. I punctured twice in one week.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Yw


HHL said:


> The weights shouldn't surprise or disappoint. I have a Fuze Pro, 27 lbs tubeless, no dropper, stock wheels. When the carbon 38's come out, that will help. The comparison of fatties with droppers to the skinny rimmed and tired no-dropper bikes of the last few years is apples to oranges. Secondly, there are also easy ways to modify air shock performance such that you get proper sag and good progression. Thirdly, I wouldn't judge or expect my favorite width handllebar on any bike. I have narrow shoulders and the wide bars you big boys like would be ridiculously unmanageable for me. The rise in a bar is of a personal nature as well. Almost all bikes have to be personalized a little bit, to include the bars. One final note, the Fuze and the SJ Fattie do handle a little bit differently, in spite of their similarities. For me, even with the longer chainstays, longer top tube and same head tube angle, the Fuze is more maneuverable. I haven't been in any chunk with it yet, but if pedal strikes prove to be more of an irritant, I will get a Wheels Ind. eccentric bottom bracket and raise bb height about 1/2."


To use the Wheels bb, would the crankset have to be changed?
Wheels does a 24mm, I think the GX is 30


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Yes, you would need to switch cranks from a bb30 to a gxp 22/24mm (or shimano). I used the pf30-gxp wheels ebb on my stumpy. The wheel mfg tech told me it would raise the cranks 10mm. I didn't measure it, but it looked about right. Side note: you will need to buy 2x m6 80mm hex bolts as the supplied bolts in the kit are a bit short for the 73mm shell + spacers.
Even with shorter 170mm cranks raised 10mm with the EBB, I find it still too low for rock crawling.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Grab your coffee...

I got to demo a 2016 Stumpy 6Fattie S-Works today at my back yard trail system Which I know like the back of my hand - Santa Teresa County Park. Being only two blocks from my house on the Santa Teresa side, I ride all the trails here frequently - Rocky Ridge and Stiles Ranch are my favorite. There is a super-steep trail on the way back to my place called Joice trail. It pitches up to 30% grade in a couple places within a few hundred yards. I am looking for a bike that can take a beating on rocky technical gnar and then get me up Joice trail on my way home. Also looking for a bike that will take it easy on my back. I'm not getting any younger. Almost 46 now and I tend to keep bikes for a long time.

My 2007 S-works Enduro gets me up Joice with the 22/34 combo on the 3x9. But it gives me a beating on those technical trails with relatively puny 26x2.3 wheels. And the super-tall Head tube from 2007 (must be 8 inches) puts the bars up much too high for me to catch air and retain a stable, confidence-inspiring feeling. I used to run big tires when they were available and when framesets allowed. The 2007 Enduro has little clearance, but I still managed to run a Purgatory 2.4 up front (measures more like a 2.5) if you remember that tire. It would not clear the rear triangle though. But the big S stopped making them so I've been on a Butcher/Eskar (F/R) combo for the last couple years.

I've tested the 2016 Stumpy 650b, 2015 Enduro 650b, IBIS Mojo HDR and HD3, Enduro 29 (In a medium cause they don't make small E29's) I'm 5'5", 150lbs. I have been really impressed with the Stumpy650b, but with the early teasers of the 6Fattie, I had to see what it was all about before I pulled the trigger on a new bike.

So today, I finally got to ride that 6fattie. My apprehensions going into the test ride included the following: (1) Would the longer wheelbase of the 6Fattie over the '16 stumpy 650b pose a problem in tight switchbacks? (2) Could I still effectively use body-english to steer the bike by leaning it over with those fat tires? (3) Would it be stable up and down tight switchbacks? (4) Would those puny knobs be inadequate for cornering in the front (5) would it pedal like a pig with all that rubber? (6) would the bike feel like I was bouncing from the big tires hitting rocks? (7) would the front wheel easily loft over rocks, bumps, and whoop-dee-doos? (8) would my heels or calves hit the wider rear triangle anywhere? (9) Would I feel confident and stable catching air on it? (10) Would pedal strikes be a problem in all this rocky terrain? And finally, (11) would the 28x42 gearing get my up Joice trail on my way home?

The climb from the parking lot up the fire road to Coyote peak was my first indication that this was a good climber, despite the extra weight in rubber. I think you do lose a tiny bit in acceleration, but once my tires went from the paved parking lot to the gravel fire road, I was startled by how smooth the ride STILL was! It was really a magic carpet feel. I spent the next 10 minutes shaking me head and grinning. NO trail chatter!

The 6Fattie felt *much* easier to pedal up hill than the Enduro 650b. The Stumpy 650b edges this out the 650 in all-out climbing speed (maybe by 15 percent), but the ride was So smooth, I still felt fresh at the top.

Going down the loose gravel fire road downhill on the way from Coyote peak to Rocky Ridge trail entrance that makes any bike feel squirrely, was super stable on the 6Fattie. The loose gravel was still there, I just wasn't affected by it. AT ALL!

I was so fast down Rocky Ridge, it was just insane. The bike stays planted in the berms and even in off-camber sections to a ridiculous extent. Scenery was going by so fast that I was too fast for my usual lines and it just didn't freaking matter. I did have to shift my focus much farther down the trail due to my increased speed. Those 3.0 tires and suspension just flattened the trail! Imagine me with a constant evil laugh and just plowing through everything. This is why I ride big mountain bikes… for the fun of hauling butt and seeing what I can roll over and through. A couple times, I stopped to regroup (wait) for the others that I went riding with and they were way behind. I turned around and climbed up some really gnarly rock chutes and even my uphill lines seemed to not matter. As a friend said - this isn't riding, it's cheating. Maybe so, but it's the most fun I've had on a mountain bike in a long time.

The bike is still agile, still lively, just a blast and wants to launch off of EVERYTHING! But not overly so. When I rode an HDR, that front wheel seemed to want to launch off of everything whether I wanted to or not. The 6Fattie stays planted until I give it the slightest upward pull on the bars and it sails into the air just as expected and lands back onto the rocky gnar with a pleasant "fluff", as if defying the laws of physics.

More of the same on Stiles ranch trail. The 6Fattie goes where you want, when you want and how you want. No drama. And it does so with a magic-carpet ride that I wasn't expecting. I couldn't keep the sh!t-eating grin off of my face. Stiles has rock-gardens strewn with baby-head rocks and larger rocks to keep it all in place. Towards the bottom, there are 7 switchbacks, none of which were trouble for the 6Fattie.

Oh, and all this talk of a low BB and pedal strikes? Zero problems with pedal strikes on the 6Fattie. And I've had LOTS of pedal strikes here on Rocky Ridge on other test bikes - some of which almost sent me into an endo (HD3). I think it's a non-issue on the 6Fattie. And if it is, I can just compensate.

I even rode a bit off-trail just to see what I could ride when there's no trail. Loose steep sketchy slope up the side of the trail? Sure! Freshly plowed soil - no problem! Fresh tan-bark 6" deep in a 20-60 foot planter area just because I can? Of course! Would you like fries with all that float and traction? Yes.

So after a loop of Rocky Ridge and Stiles, it was time to go test my mettle and the bike's balance and gearing going up Joice trail (On the Bernal side). That section of Joice is not technical with obstacles, but it is loose over hardpack and with some 30% sustained pitches, it's so steep and sketchy that most hikers struggle going up and down it. When I clear it on my Enduro, I have received more than once the of applause and atta-boy's from hikers of all types. So will the 28x42 get me and the 6Fattie up that hill? YES it did!!! Sold. I love it! Placing my order soon. YMMV, but I'm loving it. I took the long way back to the parking lot and hit stiles again, still in disbelief at how capable the bike is.

I did top out on the 28/10 on a downhill fire road, but I'll trade that for being able to climb everything in the California Bay area and Santa Cruz.

It's just stupid-stable, stupid-fast, stupid grippy and stupid fun! And still super-nimble. 

See you on the trails!


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

majr said:


> Yes, you would need to switch cranks from a bb30 to a gxp 22/24mm (or shimano). I used the pf30-gxp wheels ebb on my stumpy. The wheel mfg tech told me it would raise the cranks 10mm. I didn't measure it, but it looked about right. Side note: you will need to buy 2x m6 80mm hex bolts as the supplied bolts in the kit are a bit short for the 73mm shell + spacers.
> Even with shorter 170mm cranks raised 10mm with the EBB, I find it still too low for rock crawling.


Thanks for the info. The more I ride it the less I am noticing the pedal hits, 
plus whatever you pay for the bikes in the U.S. add a grand over here. So not keen to spend anything more at this stage

Token picture just because I love this bike.

It was very quiet on Saturday, so I targeted one downhill to see if I could get a PB
Picture is at the start of the track. Knocked off 1m10sec over 1.8 km


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

HilltopSteve said:


> ??? How do you figure? It takes more power to spin a 50/15 than it does a 30/15.


We can go into more depth offline if you would like, but we need to be a bit more clear on the physics. Are we talking about torque, force, Power, or the relationship between these? Roughly, torque is "turning force", i.e. force acting on a lever arm (I.e. at some radius from an axis) that causes rotation (Cross product of force and distance vectors), while Power Is work per unti time, I.e. Watts, Joules per second etc. To keep things relatively simple, for a given amount of force generated by the rider on the pedal, or torque about the axis of the bottom bracket, lower gearing (smaller chainwheel up front with bigger cog in back), yields more torque at the rear wheel than higher gearing, which is why low gearing facilitates climbing. Analysis in terms of power is a different matter entirely. However, neglecting friction, the instantaneous power supplied by the rider at the cranks (proportional to torque x Pedaling cadence) is the same as the instantaneous power output of the rear wheel (torque x rpm), no matter what the gearing. One final point though: The physics of bicycles per se is relatively straightforward (I.e. forces, distances, vectors, and of course the mechanical/materials properites of frames etc.). However the physics of riding is far more complicated, since it introduces a very very complex biomechanical engine - the rider - where the dynamics of power and force at the rider end are gnarly indeed! The short of it though, with respect to your original point, is that a smaller chain ring up front yields more turning force at the back wheel than a larger chain ring will, for a given force applies at the pedal and a given cog selected in the back.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> Grab your coffee...
> 
> I got to demo a 2016 Stumpy 6Fattie S-Works today at my back yard trail system Which I know like the back of my hand - Santa Teresa County Park. Being only two blocks from my house on the Santa Teresa side, I ride all the trails here frequently - Rocky Ridge and Stiles Ranch are my favorite. There is a super-steep trail on the way back to my place called Joice trail. It pitches up to 30% grade in a couple places within a few hundred yards. I am looking for a bike that can take a beating on rocky technical gnar and then get me up Joice trail on my way home. Also looking for a bike that will take it easy on my back. I'm not getting any younger. Almost 46 now and I tend to keep bikes for a long time.
> 
> ...


Misterclean, I really enjoyed that coffee! I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this bike (my wife even likes the color of the orange alloy comp-but thought of foes Mutz still haunt me!) Wondering what PSI you were running. Also what is your take on the rims and tire stability when cornering?


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Hey Misterclean,

Jack Burns here knows Santa Teresa very well. But Jack doesn't ride there much these days. That was a good write up. Fun to imagine riding Rocky Ridge and Stiles on the 6fattie.

Was up in northern Sonoma County on some trails that are ridiculously narrow steep and Rocky that I know very well this Sunday and had a blast climbing up one that is filled with loose softball sized rocks with knobby step ups and twisty gutters. This particular trail has no name but I ride it a lot alone because it's so hard and remote that I don't take friends there except my wife who rode it, bike and hiked, for the first time with me this time.

Anyway of course the 6fattie made it easier. Jack did use the lowest gear. Jack did dab once even with the advantage. And Jack is getting better at judging lines for pedal stroke avoidance.

A nice benefit is when an unplanned change in line occurs due in this example to the rear tire rolli g on a softball the big front wheel can just keep moving over the terrain anywhere including thorny scrub or gnarly conglomerate bedrock nubs. Jack was like holey Schmidt keep pedaling and steady we are going up. Less of a panic and keeping the output at a ridiculously comfortable level compared with the house on fire metabolism Jack runs when attacking said hill in segments bursts on his full rigid 26 SS or the old triple BMC.

Henry Coe is gonna see the 6fattie. Jack is likely to try to climb anything.

Got caught in the blessed rain on Sunday. Added 16 mm and baptized this 6fattie with the name of 666.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Twimby said:


> Thanks for the info. The more I ride it the less I am noticing the pedal hits,
> plus whatever you pay for the bikes in the U.S. add a grand over here. So not keen to spend anything more at this stage
> 
> Token picture just because I love this bike.
> ...


Twimby,

The o ring on your Fox 34 fork is exactly where mine ends up every time.

Is anyone getting full travel yet?

Some big hits too.

Cool post thanks.


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

HilltopSteve said:


> Jack B, on Scrapers, the FatBNimbles surprisingly only measure to 2.9. Theyre awfully distant from their advertised size.


 I would also assume the scrapers are significantly heavier than the Rovals....right?


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Great review Misterclean...Has anyone run the Purgatory 27.5 x 3.00 on the rear yet? (for a Front/Rear Purg combo)


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Jpcannavo said:


> Misterclean, I really enjoyed that coffee! I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this bike (my wife even likes the color of the orange alloy comp-but thought of foes Mutz still haunt me!) Wondering what PSI you were running. Also what is your take on the rims and tire stability when cornering?


Sorry, no idea what PSI I was running. I do know they aired the rear tire up a bit for That trail system. but I think it's a testament to the bike that I didn't have time to change anything - fork, shock, tire pressures yet it still felt great. I thought stability of the rims were great. I think the "narrow" rims help keep the tire profile rounded and the boost 148 keeps them tight.

Go demo the Mutz if you haven't already. would hate to have any "what if?" moments.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Jack Burns said:


> Hey Misterclean,
> 
> Jack Burns here knows Santa Teresa very well. But Jack doesn't ride there much these days. That was a good write up. Fun to imagine riding Rocky Ridge and Stiles on the 6fattie....
> 
> ...Added 16 mm and baptized this 6fattie with the name of 666.


Thanks.... Also enjoyed your review on Cannel trail and plunge. I've ridden there a few times, but it's been about 7 years since my last time. would love to go back on the 6Fattie. That trail was fun on my 2007 Enduro SL with 26x2.3 tires. Biggest challenges for me were the 2 miles of dried up river-rock-bed and then the loose, sandy plunge at the end. I'll bet that was a blast on the 6Fattie! Do you have the Purgatory on the front or the Ground Control? my tester had ground controls front and rear. Great for loose over hard-pack, but the Purgatory seems like it would bite better in pine-needle bed trails.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> We can go into more depth offline if you would like, but we need to be a bit more clear on the physics. Are we talking about torque, force, Power, or the relationship between these? Roughly, torque is "turning force", i.e. force acting on a lever arm (I.e. at some radius from an axis) that causes rotation (Cross product of force and distance vectors), while Power Is work per unti time, I.e. Watts, Joules per second etc. To keep things relatively simple, for a given amount of force generated by the rider on the pedal, or torque about the axis of the bottom bracket, lower gearing (smaller chainwheel up front with bigger cog in back), yields more torque at the rear wheel, which is why low gearing facilitates climbing. Analysis in terms of power is a different matter entirely. However, neglecting friction, the instantaneous power supplied by the rider at the cranks (proportional to torque x Pedaling cadence) is the same as the instantaneous power output of the rear wheel (torque x rpm), no matter what the gearing. One final point though: The physics of bicycles per se is relatively straightforward (I.e. forces, distances, vectors, and of course the mechanical/materials properites of frames etc.). However the physics of riding is far more complicated, since it introduces a very very complex biomechanical engine - the rider - where the dynamics of power and force at the rider end are gnarly indeed! The short of it though, with respect to your original point, is that lower gearing (smaller chain ring) increases turning force at back wheel for a given force applies at the pedal and a given cog selected in the back.


Awesome explanation. I should have clarified. For example, theres no thrust I find in a 28t ring to really load the bike up and force it to hop up on a tall log and then over it. I can do that very easily with a bigger ring. Particularly if I was in my 32t rear gear just as an example, theres just all spin force with no OOMPH versus with a 34, there is load to facilitate a hop.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

trailnimal said:


> I would also assume the scrapers are significantly heavier than the Rovals....right?


Yessir they are. The Rovals are stupid light. I was impressed.

I got my SWorks out today. I was surprised, no pedal strikes. But I was riding mostly in Climb or Trail. Descend was only used on one descent.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

HilltopSteve said:


> Awesome explanation. I should have clarified. For example, theres no thrust I find in a 28t ring to really load the bike up and force it to hop up on a tall log and then over it. I can do that very easily with a bigger ring. Particularly if I was in my 32t rear gear just as an example, theres just all spin force with no OOMPH versus with a 34, there is load to facilitate a hop.


Thanks Hilltop (Have since edited that post a bit, Couple of spots needed to be clearer). Getting back to the stumpy 6 fat (and torn between it and foes Mutz 275+), from picture looks like you demoed the comp alloy, but you are going with the S-works. How do you see the gain in performance? If I go with stumpy, ill likely go with the comp alloy. Do love that Swat door though!


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## trailnimal (Mar 1, 2004)

HilltopSteve said:


> Yessir they are. The Rovals are stupid light. I was impressed.
> 
> I got my SWorks out today. I was surprised, no pedal strikes. But I was riding mostly in Climb or Trail. Descend was only used on one descent.


 I was out in central PA this past weekend following a guy riding a "Comp" on some real toothy trails. It did not observe him hitting the cranks anymore than usual for that type of trail.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

RE: low BB height... meh. I think it's what you're used to that is the biggest deal for some riders, as I'm sure a person learns to adapt while riding. I'm looking to possibly add one of these 6fatties next year. My current ride ('13 Stumpy fsr evo 26er) has a 335mm BB so I'm not expecting any large difference there, or riding adaptation required.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

rushman3 said:


> Great review Misterclean...Has anyone run the Purgatory 27.5 x 3.00 on the rear yet? (for a Front/Rear Purg combo)


I'm running a Bridger/Purg combo after puncturing a rear Bridger and replacing it with the Purgatory.

The Purg is an ok tire, way better grip than the ground control, especially on leafy rocky trails. Mine weighed 990g, so I don't expect it to last too long in the rocks (Bridgers were both under weight at 1091g, and 1085g, and one had a sidewall puncture on the 3rd ride). I like the Purg much more than the ground control, and a little better than the Bridger. The narrow 29mm roval rim causes the cornering knobs to be totally worthless. You will be cornering on the transition knobs, which seems to work ok!


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Thanks Hilltop (Have since edited that post a bit, Couple of spots needed to be clearer). Getting back to the stumpy 6 fat (and torn between it and foes Mutz 275+), from picture looks like you demoed the comp alloy, but you are going with the S-works. How do you see the gain in performance? If I go with stumpy, ill likely go with the comp alloy. Do love that Swat door though!


Yes it was the comp, the Comp alloy is 31 lbs and the SWorks is 29 with all swat in the bike and tubeless. The most obvious difference is the more direct steering feel and the much lighter rotating weight. The wheels are stupid stiff too. Besides the component upgrade. One thing though, I was very unimpressed so far with XX1. I took the chain off and put it in a parts washer and then lubed it with normal chain lube. I havent ridden it since doing that yet but in the stand it seemed to shift a little quicker/less laggy.


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## toddflaska (Nov 8, 2015)

*Stumpjumper 6 Fattie with 29er wheels.*

That is the point. I would like to have the option to ride 29er 2.3 or 27.5 3.0. 
Anyone else looked into this ?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

That should be no problem. There is plenty of clearance for the 29er wheels in the rear triangle and room enough for 29+ tires on the Fox34 fork. Just be sure to get wheels with BOOST hubs, which the stock FSR 29er wheels are not.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

So, my LBS is ordering up my s-works stumpy 6fattie. They said it does not come with a pump tool. I thought it came with all tools. Can you help me understand what it should come with so I can make sure it's all there?


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

My comp carbon came with multi tool, without chainbreaker, with cloth for a tire and pump. I had asked in advance, when delivered the multi tool was not there. They got it a week later. Never got clarified whether it was forgotten or the lbs fixed it himself as they may have incorrectly informed me. The site is not clear. The chain breaker is optional extra, install requires a specific park tool, so best to order with the bike. They are 30-35 each,


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Hompie said:


> My comp carbon came with multi tool, without chainbreaker, with cloth for a tire and pump. I had asked in advance, when delivered the multi tool was not there. They got it a week later. Never got clarified whether it was forgotten or the lbs fixed it himself as they may have incorrectly informed me. The site is not clear. The chain breaker is optional extra, install requires a specific park tool, so best to order with the bike. They are 30-35 each,


Thanks for the info. I find it troubling that an s-works does not come with the chain tool... at that price! Geez.... Guess I'd better call the LBS.

*Ninja Edit*: Called the LBS and they said the s-works comes with all the tools. Can't wait to get it


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

I rode the large S-Works demo at Santa Teresa and now finished reading these posts. I didn't see anyone mention their calves touching the seatstays while pedaling. Does no one experience this? Or doesn't bother them?


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Hey J Pre,

Your question is something that I wanted to report on here, but I didn't get around to it yet.

Calf contact with the seat stay will be an issue for some bodies! 

I read about calves rubbing the 6fattie seat stays in a review before I obtained my bike. I didn't think it would be a problem for me because I had ridden a Salsa Bucksaw all day once, and also ride a Mukluk, and figured that since I didn't have problems with those bikes, I wouldn't on the 66fattie. And it turns out I am fine with the width of the seat stays.

However, if I point my knees outward and pull my heels towards the center, my calves contact the frame. I call this style of pedaling, the my balls are big sore and swollen style of pedaling, for laughs.

Since I use SPD pedals and my favorite pedal cleat position is essentially straight ahead, my leg geometry doesn't cause my calves to rub the frame. 

My impression is that most frames will get heel rub on the cranks and chainstays if an exaggerated duck foot style of cleat placement is employed. Most people don't ride that way. If I did, I would probably ride flats so that I could put the balls of my feet more outboard for heel clearance.

I suppose really thick calves will disqualify a rider from certain bikes like the 6fattie. I am not idea how my calves rate on the scale of thickness, but they aren't skinny. But I have short legs; 30" inseam here, on medium.

All of that said, I have noticed that my calves have made contact with the frame on every ride during particular technical circumstances such as the odd switchback or off camber maneuvers for examples. I wonder if I will wear the paint. It sure stays polished there where the contact happens. But it does not bother me.

I have also scrubbed my ass on the rear tire a couple of times.

IMHO making leg contact with the rear triangle is normal. It is bad if the leg hits the bike on every pedal stroke. Only testing will tell for sure.

Handlebars, on a different but similar topic, are crucial fit items as well. I have comments on this too.

First of all, I think the aluminum 275 gram 750 mm bars in my bike are pretty good. But I am going to change them. Why? Because I can. I admit that a carbon bar feels better when I know about it. Could I tell blindfolded? I think so.

Vanity be damned, the bar the bike came with fits me well. One of my personal fit tests on a bike includes tight cornering to check knee clearance. The corrollary of toeverlap is kneeverlap. Well kneeverlap does occur with proper fit, but manageable. It feels right. I think they should make the top tube a little bit longer. I think the short stem is right. The thing descends great. I probably do not know enough to make valid criticisms about the geometry. That said, I think I would enjoy a slight rise and more sweep, and more bling!

The bike climbs incredibly well and comfortably for me as is. However I have yet to really slog Up a 9 mile dirt road. The climbs I have enjoyed have been the steep and technical type. 

Yeah I went up Oathill Mine Road, But I was goofing off riding wicked lines with a slow group. I think the real test will be Bear Mountain in Coe one day. I am optimistic.

Next a bit more on pedal strikes. On Oat Jill and environs I really put it to the test and played with the rear shock PSI. I found that I liked the chunky climbing with the shocks open for improved traction and conformity to the surface. The downside of that was an increased chance of pedal strikes. They did happen, and I was twice concerned with chain wheel strike, on the piddly 28t! I don't think I hit it, but I can imagine it will happen. So, the ride is low, but the thing really crawls well and I believe I can adapt to it. 

And, as we read above, yes I will get a 29er wheelset one day, and the bike will have an other personality. Tires make a big difference too. It shall be interesting and fun to ride this bike in the future. I am very happy with it so far despite some issues.

It is too expensive. The Orange aluminum comp model is the value. 

I predict that the plus format will expand. Adjustable geometry and bottom bracket height frames will become the norm, as plus bikes really would benefit from such design integrations as tires sizes and trail applications obviously suggest the advantages.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

jpre said:


> I rode the large S-Works demo at Santa Teresa and now finished reading these posts. I didn't see anyone mention their calves touching the seatstays while pedaling. Does no one experience this? Or doesn't bother them?


I've been riding one for two weeks now. Haven't noticed any calf contact.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

I noticed the calf rub issue pretty frequently too. I didn't find it so bothersome and I'm going to put some kind of frame protection on when my orange comp gets here next week!


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## JohnJameson (Jun 3, 2009)

So I'm torn between what size frame to get. Deciding between Medium and Large. I'm 5'11 165lbs. As a reference my long travel 29er has a 18" frame and my 26er freeride bike has a 17.5" frame. Anyone my size have a suggestion? Thanks!


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'm 5'11 with a long inseam (35) and would get a large. I can ride a medium but prefer more stack to deal with my seat height


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

I'm 5'11" with an average inseam and liked the size of the Large demo I tried for 30 minutes or so. However I didn't try the Medium for comparison.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'm 5'10" with a 31 inch inseam and went with the medium. It's a somewhat shortish reach to me, but that works well for technical riding - keeps me nice and compact. As a long-time roadie, when hammering XC trails, I feel more comfortable being more stretched out, but my oldmanback does better with the upright position, so the M works for me on both counts.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

JohnJameson said:


> So I'm torn between what size frame to get. Deciding between Medium and Large. I'm 5'11 165lbs. As a reference my long travel 29er has a 18" frame and my 26er freeride bike has a 17.5" frame. Anyone my size have a suggestion? Thanks!


I'd go Large. I'm 5'8 and a Medium is pretty close. It feels a little smaller than other Medium Specialized bikes that I've owned.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

jpre said:


> I rode the large S-Works demo at Santa Teresa and now finished reading these posts. I didn't see anyone mention their calves touching the seatstays while pedaling. Does no one experience this? Or doesn't bother them?


No issues here, but I'm 5'5" and ~150lbs. Absolutely zero contact. Also, I always ride clipped in on Shimano SPD's.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

artnshel said:


> I noticed the calf rub issue pretty frequently too. I didn't find it so bothersome and I'm going to put some kind of frame protection on when my orange comp gets here next week!


The frame had helicopter tape all over the rear stays standard. Heel contact will likely happen. You will be able to find out because the tape gets a black scuff pretty easily (not easy to rub off either).


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

JohnJameson said:


> So I'm torn between what size frame to get. Deciding between Medium and Large. I'm 5'11 165lbs. As a reference my long travel 29er has a 18" frame and my 26er freeride bike has a 17.5" frame. Anyone my size have a suggestion? Thanks!


I'm the same height and weight. 32" inseam. I went large after riding medium and large. I rode a large Epic for years so it's what I'm used to. A medium would work with a longer stem.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm 5'10, 31" inseam and after years on a medium I will be going large on my next frame.
On my medium 26" SJ I have 6" of post sticking out on my dropper, but on a large 650b its maybe 2". With a 45mm mm vs. the 60mm I currently run a large feels spot on.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

okcorral0 said:


> I'm the same height and weight. 32" inseam. I went large after riding medium and large. I rode a large Epic for years so it's what I'm used to. A medium would work with a longer stem.


Don't go the longer stem route. If you need a longer stem, get the large, or if that doesn't fit, try a different plus bike. All of them have longer reach than the 6Fattie, and several of them are specced similarly (although you'll have to add a dropper on most). The longer stem will reduce your front end control and stability (marginally at least).

Mr Lynch and I have the same measurements and are on the cusp of M/L frames (having made different choices). You're only an inch taller, so you may be as well. The M remains a rather upright fit for me, so if your legs are longer, it may still work for you, but if your torso is longer, you'll definitely want to try the large (or another make of bike).


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## JohnJameson (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. I was leaning large but then came across a smoking deal on a medium. But, literally a couple hours after that post my LBS announced that they had got some in as demos so I will be able to ride both.


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## JCL (Oct 17, 2006)

As phride above says, always, always, ride the largest frame you can with the shortest stem possible. 30-40mm. 

There is are no downsides.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

JCL said:


> As phride above says, always, always, ride the largest frame you can with the shortest stem possible. 30-40mm.
> 
> There is are no downsides.


You got that right.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Ordered my 6Fattie comp last week. It is still a week or two away though as it is coming from Australia (no orange ones in NZ). Rode the demo for about 5 hours over the space of two days and I still have the smile on my face.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

JCL said:


> As phride above says, always, always, ride the largest frame you can with the shortest stem possible. 30-40mm.
> 
> There is are no downsides.


Here's a downside of going big.
The 6fatty comp aluminum had welds from the FSR link that protrude slightly into the seat tube. This prevents the dropper post from being slammed into the seat tube. With a stock 125mm command post that means that a "slammed" seat post is ~695mm when extended. My normal fit (medium frame, 5'8) is 684mm BB center to top of saddle center.

The carbon model had no such issue and I could hit my fit numbers.

Something to keep in mind and check for in the shop when deciding on sizes.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

If you're 5'11 go large. The medium size run per Specializeds 2016 Size Chart shows medium ending at 5'9 and Large beginning at 5'9 and up to 6'1. 

The comp carbon comes with no SWAT tools, the Expert and SWorks come with SWAT stuff.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

HilltopSteve said:


> If you're 5'11 go large. The medium size run per Specializeds 2016 Size Chart shows medium ending at 5'9 and Large beginning at 5'9 and up to 6'1.


As stipulated, I agree on the size L, assuming it feels Ok when you sit on the bike, but a question for Hilltop Steve:

Where did you get that size chart? The chart I saw had the M go to 5'10" and the L start at 5'10", but I didn't find one on the Specialized website. It was from an on-line bike shop's copy of an undated Specialized mtb size chart, but which they said was for 2016 models. It looked to me like Specialized avoided publicizing such a chart, instead relying on the expertise of their dealers to fit the bikes.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

This weekend I went back to riding my single speed amongst the redwoods and mellow of Santa Cruz and Felton. Recent rain created hero dirt conditions overall. So I figured on saving wear on the new bike would be a good outcome. It was.

But I did compare how different it would be on the 6fattie. It would have been faster on the DH. Yet even in the 26" full rigid hard tail with tubes and aired hard tires the ride was fast and fantastic. I could tell I was a better rider for having been on the 6fattie. Capable bikes teach me new things.

Sunday we rode trails that are sandy, deep sand at times, and the rain nullified the sand, and the sand nullified the rain. If it were dry I would have taken the 6fattie. The lilliputian pygmy trails were just perfect on The single speed.

Next weekend we have a Sunday plan to go on more demanding trails so I will take the 6fattie. U til then


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Misterclean, 

May I know what size 6fattie you riding? Thanks.


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## Justin MD (Sep 30, 2013)

jpre said:


> I rode the large S-Works demo at Santa Teresa and now finished reading these posts. I didn't see anyone mention their calves touching the seatstays while pedaling. Does no one experience this? Or doesn't bother them?


I noticed some contact but not enough to bother me.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

While I'm waiting for my orange comp to get here I read an article in Enduro magazine that came out today. It said that after testing they don't think getting the widest rim width really matters with plus size tires. Personally I love wider rims on 2.3 tires so I think I'd like them with 3.0 tires too.

Has anyone replace their stock 29mm inner width rims with something wider? If so what difference did you notice?

Here's a link to the Enduro mag article, you have to click on 'Content' above and then the Group test #10. Viewer | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine

They liked 40mm rims (over 30 or 50mm) with 2.8 tires. They specifically didn't like the high cornering knobs that resulted with 50mm rims but weight was also a factor in their choosing 40mm over 50mm. I surely do like high cornering knobs on 2.3 Butchers with a 35mm internal rim.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

artnshel said:


> While I'm waiting for my orange comp to get here I read an article in Enduro magazine that came out today. It said that after testing they don't think getting the widest rim width really matters with plus size tires. Personally I love wider rims on 2.3 tires so I think I'd like them with 3.0 tires too. Has anyone replace their stock 29mm inner width rims with something wider? If so what difference did you notice?Here's a link to the Enduro mag article, you have to click on 'Content' above and then the Group test #10. Viewer | ENDURO Mountainbike MagazineThey liked 40mm rims (over 30 or 50mm) with 2.8 tires. They specifically didn't like the high cornering knobs that resulted with 50mm rims but weight was also a factor in their choosing 40mm over 50mm. I surely do like high cornering knobs on 2.3 Butchers with a 35mm internal rim.


Just pulled trigger on orange comp, large frame, (Blue amx Signature pedals) !! First ride was in very muddy conditions on moderately technical single track. Mud was limiting factor here. Still, I was maintaining control and traction far better than my buddy (who is the better rider) on his 29 hard tail. No surprise. Next day out on drier terrain did my early am interval training on groomed trails. Was impressed with how easily bike pedals when climbing - far better than foes Mutz I had demoed but surprisingly close in tractions and equally confiden descending. No issues with calves, but I my gastrocs have always been small. To get to question in above quote-I have yet to tell how stock rims will fare. But I suspect that my skills are no sufficient to tease out such differences. I have wondered how 3.25 VT fatties would fare in these rims though. In short, so far loving bike! Also gotta give a plug to Mojo Wheels in CO. They let me Demo bike for $40 for a whole weekend, supper cool dedicated mtbr shop in CO. Will,post pics this weekend.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

artnshel said:


> While I'm waiting for my orange comp to get here I read an article in Enduro magazine that came out today. It said that after testing they don't think getting the widest rim width really matters with plus size tires. Personally I love wider rims on 2.3 tires so I think I'd like them with 3.0 tires too.
> 
> Has anyone replace their stock 29mm inner width rims with something wider? If so what difference did you notice?
> 
> ...


I'm in the process of building some carbon 45mm rims to replace the stock 29mm rims. Just look at the profile of a 3.0 tire mounted to a 29mm rim. It looks absolutely ridiculous. Those cornering knobs will never get properly used during cornering. Thankfully, the transition knobs on most tires are supported enough that it still works fine, but I think a wider rim will be superior.


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## Jeepnick (Nov 6, 2015)

Pending sale on my 29er stumpjumper 
Looking to pick up a 6fattie 
$6500 for the expert
$3500 for the comp
Is the expert really worth the $3k 
The gx stuff looks legit 
I've never owned a carbon bike before
Just looking for opinions 
Don't wanna buy the comp and wish I bought the expert


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

I will make a stab at the Comp/Expert choice.

1. I don't think the Expert is worth three more thousand dollars.

2. I bought an Expert, however, because:
a, SWAT. 
b, Stiffness and ride improvement potential. 
c, Beauty of the frame.
d, Lighter weight.
e, Prestige.
f, Probably better suspension shocks.

3. All of the reasons a-f really do not amount to $3k worth. But I went with the Expert because I could and I am worthy of it. 

4. The alternative of the Comp is better because:
a, As the drive train wears out you will replace it with what you really want.
b, You can buy a better alternative wheelset and or a 29er wheelset with the money saved.
c, You get an all aluminum bike and not some half and half rushed to market Franken bike concept.
d, The increase in weight is neglible and you aren't a weight wean e anyway.
e, SWAT is a gimmick and all that stuff fits in your pockets already.
f, In a couple of years there will be a lot of better plus bikes out there which will be lighter affordable and more capable, so you ride this for the interim.


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## Jeepnick (Nov 6, 2015)

Jack Burns said:


> I will make a stab at the Comp/Expert choice.
> 
> 1. I don't think the Expert is worth three more thousand dollars.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response
All solid points and makes total sense
Appreciate it


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Or you could consider the Carbon Comp for $1,000 more with no change in spec. All you get is a stiffer front triangle and I'm guessing 2 pounds back. I didn't think it was worth it, and after demoing the Carbon Comp with tubes and then buying a Comp setup tubeless, I came away with a lighter-feeling bike, and I can lose more than 2 pounds from my gut instead with $1,000 of motivation to do so.


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## Jeepnick (Nov 6, 2015)

phride said:


> Or you could consider the Carbon Comp for $1,000 more with no change in spec. All you get is a stiffer front triangle and I'm guessing 2 pounds back. I didn't think it was worth it, and after demoing the Carbon Comp with tubes and then buying a Comp setup tubeless, I came away with a lighter-feeling bike, and I can lose more than 2 pounds from my gut instead with $1,000 of motivation to do so.


The carbon comp wasn't on my radar
Lbs has a comp and an expert 
They give me a frequent flyer discount on what they have in stock 
Is the comp set up tubeless from the factory?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The factory sends them all without tubes, but tubeless ready. You or your LBS would have to do the conversion. My LBS did it for me and have me a deal. They aren't exactly worried about being such with excess 6Fattie inventory.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

majr said:


> I'm in the process of building some carbon 45mm rims to replace the stock 29mm rims. Just look at the profile of a 3.0 tire mounted to a 29mm rim. It looks absolutely ridiculous. Those cornering knobs will never get properly used during cornering. Thankfully, the transition knobs on most tires are supported enough that it still works fine, but I think a wider rim will be superior.


I think the same and will be curious to know what you think of the new rims.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Jeepnick said:


> Pending sale on my 29er stumpjumper
> Looking to pick up a 6fattie
> $6500 for the expert
> $3500 for the comp
> ...


Everything Jack Burns said is accurate.

I bought the comp aluminum and I'm very happy that I didn't spend the extra $3k on the expert, even though I could afford it. The hacked together fattie frame felt like a gamble to have to modify with an EBB and wider rims from the start. Plus, s-works wasn't available until the end of the year. My other rigs are s-works level, so I knew I'd be sacrificing some weight with the comp, but I was more concerned about the feel of the GX/Deore group.

The GX group is fantastic. Seriously, if you covered up the labels I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference while riding between GX and XX1. Maybe it shifts a tiny bit slower, but I bet some nice cables and housings would be the real difference. 
Deore brakes are pretty nice, they look and feel pretty close to XT/XTR. They don't have quite the power I'd like, but I'm not sure if they come with organic or sintered pads. A swap from organic to sintered would fix that right up.

Orange is the best colorway, in my not so humble opinion.

Lack of SWAT is a bummer, I strap a wedge bag inside of the front triangle. It looks ghetto.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

majr said:


> I'm in the process of building some carbon 45mm rims to replace the stock 29mm rims. Just look at the profile of a 3.0 tire mounted to a 29mm rim. It looks absolutely ridiculous. Those cornering knobs will never get properly used during cornering. Thankfully, the transition knobs on most tires are supported enough that it still works fine, but I think a wider rim will be superior.


Not sure why so many people are in a flap about the standard rims and tire profile, and these "cornering knobs" not getting used when cornering. Often when riding I will be on a steep slope (coming out of a small washout or similar) and am right on the edge of the tread even though the bike is upright. I have ridden the 6fattie with the standard rims and liked the way it handled. Didn't have any issues with tire squirm or whatever and found that the wide tire/narrower rim combination also protects the rim from rocks etc. Our LBS has a demo Fuse with a big ding in its flash Scraper rims from someone catching something on the trail.
The wide rims look cool and in theory may work better. Would I notice the difference? Probably not.
No doubt the manufacturers will all fit wider rims to future models because that's what the market will demand. Not necessarily because it makes much real world difference.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

My Ground Control has been getting a bit of a Stans sweat up lately
Purgatory has not been sweating. Anyone else?
Coming into our hot months now, so maybe being in the hot shed loosens the weave a bit


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this issue.. Mine started in only a spot or two but has spread to my whole tire. I actually just happen to take some pictures of it today. I'm going to be taking it into my LBS tomorrow to see what they say.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Holy multi post, sorry about that!


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Deleted


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Deleted


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Deleted


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Deleted


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

Deleted


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Eh I wouldnt worrry about it.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Pretty normal. The CG has a thin porous sidewall. Once the stans fills in all the pores it will stop. I see it all the time with all brands of tires.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

I've seen some very small sealant bubbles on a purgatory, but not the bridger.


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## Iheartfatties (Sep 16, 2015)

I was hoping the sealant would do its thing and plug up the holes but after about a month now it only seems to be getting worse. Every time I ride there is more sealant ozzing out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

Specialized list the fork as 150mm Fox 27.5+ (110mm). Yet, according to Fox's website they only make the 27.5+ in 120mm and 140mm. Is this fork custom made for Specialized?


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## ReXTless (Feb 23, 2007)

okcorral0 said:


> Specialized list the fork as 150mm Fox 27.5+ (110mm). Yet, according to Fox's website they only make the 27.5+ in 120mm and 140mm. Is this fork custom made for Specialized?


Same fork. Different air shaft to bump the travel to 150mm.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Updates on my Expert:

Ride was in GGNRA Rancho Corral de Tierra and McNee Ranch State Park, Montara Mountain CA. No, I didn't descend The Crack on the 6fattie. Even though our ride cracked 4k of climbing, it seemed like a compact ride. 

SWAT compartment hasn't been used yet really. The little plastic spacer that blocks the bottom bracket from cargo shook loose on the ride before Montara, and I took it out. It must be just press fit in by hand. It is an injection molded sort of plastic mesh. It is conceivable that small things like a valve cap/nut/spoke nipple/ sesame seed type of thing could get lost in the frame. Unlikely though, if careful.

I think the front brake cable is too short on my build. Not a huge bummer, but I let it go, and now there is a cable run mark on the fork bridge.

Next week an Enve handlebar will replace the stock one. Now that I have a good feel of the bike, it will be interesting to compare.

The tires have held air pretty good. I didn't add any over the week. At the start of the ride I had 14 front and 15 rear; rode off with that. It was great.

One of the trails we descended, I think it is called Two Pines, has extreme and loose switch backs on down to the spectacular coastal outlook of the Colma Trail. These are slow technical turns with the seat down, and many riders will put a foot down. I cleaned all except one, but I felt the front of bike exhibit some loosness, as if the fork was flexing, I thought at first, but I put it down to the big tires on those Rovals and low air pressure. The feeling is squirm and I was afraid the bead would pop and the tire burp and me fall down and go BOOM. But no, it held fine and the ride was great, as the entire package was entirely confident on the challenging course otherwise.

Finally getting close to maximum travel on the fork. The fork is also riding a lot better. It must have broken in and I like it.

Still have the creak and that is going to be there until I take it to someone competent. 

Well I have to go but there is more to say.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

^^^
Good reports

I see over in the Fat Bike page someone has put a 4" tyre on a Whiskey rim 
into our Fox fork, for his Buckshaw. I wonder what the biggest tyre, we could get in the back of the Fattie6. That would lift the BB


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

does anyone know if the stock 150mm fox fork can be reduced to 120mm ?


ReXTless said:


> Same fork. Different air shaft to bump the travel to 150mm.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Twimby said:


> ^^^
> Good reports
> 
> I see over in the Fat Bike page someone has put a 4" tyre on a Whiskey rim
> into our Fox fork, for his Buckshaw. I wonder what the biggest tyre, we could get in the back of the Fattie6. That would lift the BB


 Agreed, nice report. I'm continuing to ride the orange comp 3-4 days a week in a small, local, well thought out MTB park - Village Green, Cheery Creek Park CO - in mornings before work. Loving bike more each day on it. Cleaning More and more technical features, and finding pedal strikes to become a nonissue as I get a better and better feel. As for tire size, i'm running around 15 PSI on both and traction on 3" is tremendous - rarely the limiting factor when climbing. In this respect it is just short of the Mutz I demoed with 26x3.8" . So, apart fro snow riding, I don't see the need to run much bigger. Still,the thought of say 3.24 VTFs on 45 mm scrapers is intriguing!


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

At last a photo for the thread. My wife took this up on Calistoga's Oat Hill Mine Trail.

Reflections continue after riding at Montara with concerns for the upcoming winter and predicted wet weather for Norcal. I intend to switch to 29er configuration pretty soon. I will try to avoid mud on the new bike as well. When we get hero dirt around here, unless the terrain begs for it, a more conventional set up will be my choice.

The saddle on this bike is working really great for me. That is a surprise. Saddles are one thing that is very personal, like shoes, so I never put much stock in saddle reviews though.

Loving the Command Post and lever but I still forget and try to go to the big ring thinking about stomping it down a grade.

Also, running out of top gear some times! It is geared low!


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## cragnshag (Aug 4, 2015)

Should have mine in a day or two. It will come with tubeless and a 30 tooth instead of a 28.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

revver said:


> Hi Misterclean,
> 
> May I know what size 6fattie you riding? Thanks.


I was demo-ing a small. Have since purchased that exact bike for myself


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

*New S-works 6Fattie!*

My new ride... The perfect bike for me. All pros, no cons. Funny thing... when I first saw it, I thought it was the stupidest thing I'd ever seen, but I thought I owed it to myself to demo it before buying a new bike. So glad I tried it.

Now I look at my old bike with Butcher/slaughter 2.3 combo and they look freakishly tiny to me. In the same way as when I was on 2.3's and looked at my old, old bike with Kenda Karma 1.95 rear and 2.1 Nevegal front.

Plus is the future.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Wow that is a nice bike Misterclean!

Now I am wondering about about how plus tires would perform in muddy conditions. Jpre brought this up in conversation. He posited there might be some advantage. Whereas I am inclined to believe otherwise.

Someone on this thread just mentioned that 3" tires were an advantage. Why?

My concern is primarily about collecting mud and making a heavier tire and wheel. Of course a lot of this depends on the kind of mud. The kind of mud I see locally can be terribly adhesive and prone to caking. The fact is that suggestion of mud in my household brings up the horrible idea of road riding instead.

My theory of mud is high durometer tall knobs and narrow tires for mud clearance and less surface area for mud to cling to, combined with staying off most trails, except certain areas known to be kind in the rain, such as Montara Mountain.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Jack Burns said:


> Wow that is a nice bike Misterclean!
> 
> Now I am wondering about about how plus tires would perform in muddy conditions. Jpre brought this up in conversation. He posited there might be some advantage. Whereas I am inclined to believe otherwise.
> 
> ...


Oh no question for me. When I first demoed the 6F it was on sticky mud after a snow melt. Within 10 minutes the tires were encased, caked with mud, blown up to 4 plus inches and weighed more than any 5" fat bike - huge cardio workout, but bikes advantage was nullified. Not a biggie for me as I greatly prefer dry riding conditions.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Jack Burns said:


> Wow that is a nice bike Misterclean!
> 
> Now I am wondering about about how plus tires would perform in muddy conditions. Jpre brought this up in conversation. He posited there might be some advantage. Whereas I am inclined to believe otherwise.


Thanks, Jack. Yes. I'm going to enjoy this bike for a long time. This bike made sense for me since my back-yard trail is Santa Teresa County Park. Coincidentally, this was one of the proving-ground trails for the folks from Morgan Hill when they were developing this bike. So it has tremendous bump-absorbing capability and rock-crawling-like low gearing to get up the steep hills. Yet it still takes on tight rocky switch-backs with ease. in fact, I might nick-name it the Wrangler, inspired by my step son's jeep wrangler with 38" tires and crawler gears.

Yes, I agree that mud will be a big problem. When it gets muddy out, I break out the Specialized Roubaix and hit the road . The road dries out in no time here in the CA Bay area. I don't like to ride in the mud, personally. Back when I had more free time (pre-4-year-old and pre-fixer-upper house), I would head on over the hill to Fort Ord for some wet riding there. Wet sand is better than mud.

I agree though that when It's muddy out you need a tire that will release mud more easily (Widely-spaced knobs) and a more narrow tire that will sink in until it finds something to grip.

I am very interested in the possibility of using 29'er wheels on this bike, if it's too much of a handful in the wet trails and mud puddles. However boost 148 carbon 29'er wheels sound super expensive.

An interesting observation on the geometry of this bike vs my 2007 26" Enduro... This bike feels so much more nimble and capable... more neutral. more confidence-inspiring, more playful, but why? My old Enduro was a size medium and this one's a small. the rear stays are an inch longer than my enduro, but front axle to bottom bracket is 2.5" shorter than my Enduro. That's huge. Gets my weight much more centered on the bike.

I took it out to Flow trail at demo forest last Sunday and it absolutely ripped! I felt zero tire squirm, but I ride lightly with a lot of body English and I like to lean the bike through the corners underneath me. (I learned to ride on fully rigid bikes where my arms and legs were the suspension).


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## gobears (Oct 21, 2009)

*My next bike...*

This bike will most likely be my next.
This forum helped me to chose a 2010 SJ 29er Expert several years ago, as my first 29er. Been very happy with it.

But, this 27.5+ looks like a whole new ball game!
Very excited to demo it!

But, I have 2 big questions in my mind:

(1) Weight. I am wondering if anybody has a frame weight comparison for the carbon comp, expert & s-works?

(2) Rear Suspension. While the Enduro has a solid reputation, Stumpjumper has been knocked for falling behind others. In the Bike Bible of Reviews, bikes like Trek Fuel/Remedy and Yeti SB/C get raves for being superior in pedaling & descending. Any thoughts?


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

gobears said:


> (2) Rear Suspension. While the Enduro has a solid reputation, Stumpjumper has been knocked for falling behind others. In the Bike Bible of Reviews, bikes like Trek Fuel/Remedy and Yeti SB/C get raves for being superior in pedaling & descending. Any thoughts?


I have some thoughts that are distinctly unfair. Before that though, why would you believe that the Enduro would be good and the Stumpjumper not good when they are mostly the same design and different amounts of travel?

Which leads me to the unfair part. Never ridden a Fuel/Remedy but when I demoed the 6Fattie I had just demoed an SB6c. The Yeti was crazy fast down rocky terrain, the fastest bike I've probably ever been on. But it has like an inch more travel in the rear than the Fattie so not a great direct comparison and there was no SB5c available that I knew of. In the short time I had I suppose I thought the SB6c pedaled a little better than the Fattie but it wasn't night and day, just something I thought I could actually feel. All of this is so subjective. I might like a plusher feel and think the SB6c was better and you might like a tighter feel and like the Fattie better. And if you want a 6" rear travel bike you might never be happy with the Fattie.

What I didn't have enough time to do was recalibrate my brain to corner significantly harder on the Fattie. I may have left a lot of potential untapped there, but it wasn't impervious to slippage straight up and down.


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## gobears (Oct 21, 2009)

jpre said:


> why would you believe that the Enduro would be good and the Stumpjumper not good when they are mostly the same design and different amounts of travel?
> 
> And if you want a 6" rear travel bike you might never be happy with the Fattie.


I have no personal frame of refererence for the Enduro 29 vs. SJ 29.
However, it the Enduro 29 was mentioned in many "Bible of Bike" reviews videos as some kind of special bike, and reviewers also wished Specialized would update the SJ 29 accordingly. And, I have read on forums, that the SJ suspension with Horst Link is being outclassed these days by newer designs. That's all I've got, and trying to understand if its real.

I am looking for a bike that has the best blend of climbing vs. downhill, somewhere in the trail bike category. I am certain I don't want an XC bike, and certain I don't want AM bike. Ideally, I want my new bike as light as possible, hopefully hitting 25 lbs. I know the s-works 6 fattie SJ is 27 lbs, so it will be tough. The Fuel is around 24 lbs, and has boost spacing, so if it could fit 27.5+ tires, and the tires keep coming down in weight, it would be in the ball park.

So, on the XC oriented Trail bike side of things, I am looking at bikes that outclass others in its category for downhill, such as the Trek Fuel. And on the AM oriented Trail bike side, I am looking at bikes that outclass their peers in pedaling uphill (Yeti SB5C). The 6 fattie might be in the AM oriented Trail Bike category.

If I understand you right, sounds like a true AM bike (6" SB6C) outclasses the 6 fattie by a significant margin. That is helpful to know.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

About a hundred miles on it, granted I'm in Florida, so no long climbs but I love this bike. I'm up to cornering speeds that seems ridiculous and it has stuck every time. Getting used to the BB height didn't take long, the key for me has been changing my line from what I used to pick on the hardtail and just charging over the tallest spot in the trail. The wheels and suspension eats it all so no need to ride around or between stuff. I did put a set of Mulefut 50 SL's on it, which I'm completely happy with, but the stock wheel-set was not bad at all.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

gobears said:


> If I understand you right, sounds like a true AM bike (6" SB6C) outclasses the 6 fattie by a significant margin. That is helpful to know.


In only my opinion, downhill on rocky terrain, yes. Downhill on extremely loose terrain, I'm not sure. Uphill, arguments could be made in favor of either.


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

Any idea what derailleur hanger this bike uses? I always like to keep an extra on hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

okcorral0 said:


> Any idea what derailleur hanger this bike uses? I always like to keep an extra on hand.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like it should be the same as the one you already have?


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Just picked my s-works fatty up today. Can't wait to feel it out tomorrow. I'm coming off a 2013 enduro so I will give a ride report soon. I also have a fatbike, hopefully the 6 fatty will be the best of both worlds. Super excited


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

gobears said:


> (2) Rear Suspension. While the Enduro has a solid reputation, Stumpjumper has been knocked for falling behind others. In the Bike Bible of Reviews, bikes like Trek Fuel/Remedy and Yeti SB/C get raves for being superior in pedaling & descending. Any thoughts?


I have a 6fattie comp and an sworks enduro 29. Short answer: The enduro will be sold in the spring.
The rear suspension feel between the two bikes is quite different. The SJ with a Fox shock feels much more plush and active to me. But it runs out of travel much easier if you start hitting drops with "trail" air pressure.
My enduro has the cane creek DBA shock. It sucks. O-rings blow out of it every dozen rides or so. But even when it is working, it feels dead. But, it does its job ok. It takes the bigger hits well and lets you point it through rock gardens.
Very subjectively I feel the SJ is the better pedaller (despite it being 3lbs heavier than the sworks enduro). The 3 position fox shock works better for me than the CS on the cane creek.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Awesome thread peeps!

Even though I didn't ride this 3" tyre bike today I can tell the education the 6fattie has granted showed me more in a week than three months of riding or maybe more ever has.

Today I rode my old hardtail with 100mm travel and even a pitiful v-brake in the back. But I have a 2.5 on the 26'er up front. Anyway, once again I am blown away by the lines that I can see that didn't seem to exist before I rode fatter tires. It is a phenomenon to me. 

I totally get the idea when riding the 6fattie that you can just point at the burly line and roll or even pop over it. The bike shows you how.

Then when I get on the old bikes, well, I have to ask myself, "what do you Got?".

So yeah, huck it, or suck it up. If you were on the plus bike or the fat bike, you might be riding on the upslope. In the vines, on the roots, or on the the blasted loose cubes of crumbly rock; just skim over it in flight to pin the next switchback.

This bike is teaching me. Where everyone else is riding? that's the past.


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## HilltopSteve (Mar 15, 2015)

The hanger the 6fattie Stumpy (and fuse) use is called the Amazing Hanger 2.0

I got around the replacing my 28t ring on the SW with a 32. So so so much better. The bike feels awesome now.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Jack Burns said:


> Awesome thread peeps!
> 
> Even though I didn't ride this 3" tyre bike today I can tell the education the 6fattie has granted showed me more in a week than three months of riding or maybe more ever has.
> 
> ...


Totally agree. In few weeks on the SJ fattie I'm finding lines, cleaning obstacles and descending at a level that I couldn't before. And although I haven't gone back to my hardtail yet, I anticipate that the skills acquired will carry over. In other words, it seems that the stability of the bike is not just allowing me to execute a line, but better allowing me to learn how to execute that line.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

BTW, likely converting to tubeless this week. Wondering how the Comp Wheel set does with this?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The stock wheels do fine tubeless, despite the seemingly small diameter. It's definitely a performance improvement.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

LBS did mine. I did burp it once but I had the pressure way too low.
I was unlucky a small stone lodged between the rim and bead, opening up the gap and letting all the air out.
Too used to the Fatboy tyres. It reset with a floopump quiet easily.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Totally agree. In few weeks on the SJ fattie I'm finding lines, cleaning obstacles and descending at a level that I couldn't before. And although I haven't gone back to my hardtail yet, I anticipate that the skills acquired will carry over. In other words, it seems that the stability of the bike is not just allowing me to execute a line, but better allowing me to learn how to execute that line.


I'm doing some stuff that I couldn't do before, but mostly I'm doing stuff I could do but doing it much faster and with more confidence. Knowing that I can make a mistake in line selection and ride it out helps me hit the right line with speed, and this bike does prefer to be operated at speed. I think this is mostly a function of the slack geometry and the plush suspension, rather than the fattish tires, but those certainly don't hurt on the chunky stuff and definitely help with traction on the uphill and in the loose stuff. For me, the big thing is going to be improving my engine, so I can hit the uphill technical lines harder and take proper advantage of all the extra traction.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Jack Burns said it well. Myself, I went with the Comp as a budget issue but couldnt be more satisfied. At 230lbs here, extra cash on Carbon is not the best place for me to shave grams. I got a better pack to stow my stuff. Hindsight I would have added my Expedo Spry's and gone tubeless before picking it up from the shop but It's done now! Most people ask if its carbon from a few feet away anyhow so if appearance is an issue, Specialized did a great job on the weld seams. Expert has upgraded tranny and kashima coated suspension but my 34 and float work great for me! Im coming from an HT 29er and compared this bike is like riding on a rail. Jack is right, this is really the best first run at 27+ (Scott may have a close second) that I have seen.The GX works great....so far but Ill upgrade that once I shred this one off the frame!


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> I'm doing some stuff that I couldn't do before, but mostly I'm doing stuff I could do but doing it much faster and with more confidence. Knowing that I can make a mistake in line selection and ride it out, helps me hit the right line with speed, and this bike does prefer to be operated at speed. I think this is mostly a function of the slack geometry and the plush suspension, rather than the fattish tires, but those certainly don't hurt on the chunky stuff and definitely help with traction on the uphill and in the loose stuff. For me, the big thing is going to be improving my engine, so I can hit the uphill technical lines harder and take proper advantage of all the extra traction.


 Oh yeah the engine, thats exactly my plan! I'm fortunate enough to live 15 mims from a small mountain bike park (village green in cherry creek state park CO) that has enough short climbs, descents and technical features to make for good workout for most riders. The relatively mild Denver winter allows several days a week to get a ride before work. So, yes, the plan is build horsepower throughout the winter so as to better exploit the bikes capabilities this summer. And yeah the geometry, one of the reasons I went with the STJ fattie, wanted something at the slacker and more aggressive end of the trail bike spectrum.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Did a trip through Moab and stopped by Slickrock on the way. First off, Slickrock ain't no joke - however, the 6Fattie handled it just fine. Traction for days, the only real issue was leaning far enough on the front end to keep it down. If you could do that and handle the fact that you were out of breath, climbing was no problem. Funny to watch other people pushing their bike while you are climbing past them...


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## Kuttermax (Sep 4, 2011)

Looks like review is up at Bikeradar. Overall it's very positive with the narrow rims their primary criticism.

Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert 6fattie review - BikeRadar


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## puttsey (Oct 16, 2004)

Wondering if anyone has a picture of the XL aluminum model. I am curious to see if it has the weird gap of tubing near the headtube like the SJ 29ers do.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The narrow rim issue will be solved soon. The Roval Fattie 38 is about to release. 38mm internal width should be perfect for the 3" tires. A buddy of mine has an s-works model on "hold", waiting for the carbon fattie 38 to release. He wont buy the bike with the standard Traverse Fattie.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

That sounds like the most sensible decision if you're paying top dollar for an S-Works. For many of us the Comp or Carbon Comp model plus waiting for the i38 Roval is a more reasonable proposition economically.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The narrow rim issue will be solved soon. The Roval Fattie 38 is about to release. 38mm internal width should be perfect for the 3" tires. A buddy of mine has an s-works model on "hold", waiting for the carbon fattie 38 to release. He wont buy the bike with the standard Traverse Fattie.


Has the LBS confirmed that the S-works will come equipped with the 38's when they become available?

I had this reservation when I was picking up my S-works 6Fattie last month. On the one hand 38mm sounds good on paper. On the other hand, I've experienced no burping or squirminess on my SL 30 Carbons. Also, at 150 lbs myself, I think the tire profile and contact patch with the 30 are a perfect blend of low rolling resistance, Low weight, and high grip. I've had zero complaints at 15 PSI front and 16 PSI rear.

But still feeling that "I coulda had..." syndrome. I think it's mental.

I suppose worst case, I could sell the lightly used SL 30's and get some SL 38's at a loss.

Along the lines with what if.... might those 38's put more tread on the ground and increase rolling resistance?

But the 6 Fattie puts a huge smile on my face every time I ride it. And I am left wondering "How'd they do that? This bike shouldn't work, but it does"


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

Rode the following at a demo day recently (in order of preference);

1) Stumpy 650b+ 6Fattie S-works
Loved it. Easy on the forearms. Climbed like a monkey. Descended really well through gnar. Shock felt so plush. A little less nimble than the others. Tires catch stuff occasionally. Pedal strikes coming out of corners into gnarly pinch climbs.

Overall, the winner. As I am in no rush to move from my 2011 Camber (which was hard to go back to), I would wait until this bike gets some wider rims I think. Also think maybe a tyre around 2.8" wide is enough, as Scott has decided with Genius+ (my other candidate). Shame I can't afford this bike. Only Fattie they had to demo.

2) Stumpy Expert 29er 
Very close second. Faster than the Fattie. If buying would wait and see if next model uses Boost. No Coolade drinking, a slightly wider hub has to result in a stiffer 29" wheel (all other factors being equal), it's basic physics. If it's on the horizon, why not wait?

3) Enduro 29er Expert
Really liked this bike too. However it's geometry didn't allow it to climb steeper technical stuff nearly as well as the Stumpys. Keeping the front wheel on the deck required more effort. The slightly better descending ability didn't make up for this as I want an all mountain ride.

4) Stumpy 650b S-works
Nice bike, but I am now more convinced than ever that longer travel 29ers or 27.5+ bikes make better all mountain rides for people like me who are not hucking 10 ft airs, want to ride all day but still love to bomb a few lines.

One thing I noticed that put me off a little is that every bike except one creaked slightly in the headset. It was only slight, sometimes just the odd "tick, tick". But not acceptable on a AUD$10,000+ bike. 

Hard to split the Stumpy 29er & Stumpy 6 Fattie as the best. Comp or maybe Expert models is all I would be willing to afford. Trek Remedy 29er other option. I am guessing Trek will do a 27.5+ Remedy next year, they should.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Enuenu, regarding the headset creaking. All of my specialized mtbs over the years have done it to some degree. Cleaning, greasing, and reassembly helps for a while, but it always returns. My 6fattie was silent for 5-6 rider, then started making noise. I took it apart and found that the lower bearing had separated at the seal. Fixed the seal, clean, grease, reassembled. Quiet, for now.


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

H


majr said:


> Enuenu, regarding the headset creaking. All of my specialized mtbs over the years have done it to some degree. Cleaning, greasing, and reassembly helps for a while, but it always returns. My 6fattie was silent for 5-6 rider, then started making noise. I took it apart and found that the lower bearing had separated at the seal. Fixed the seal, clean, grease, reassembled. Quiet, for now.


Let's hope that's the last of it for you. I'm not a real bike tech person but have a bit of an engineering background. Just looking at a MTB and what we do to them, it is obvious the headset is under a lot of stress (as is the BB and linkages). If I was designing a MTB the bearing system in the headset would be completely bullet proof, spin like butter and be easily serviceable. It seems there may be room for Specialized to improve in this area. Why build that beautiful bike and then have the major stress point in the bike under done?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

enuenu said:


> H
> 
> Let's hope that's the last of it for you. I'm not a real bike tech person but have a bit of an engineering background. Just looking at a MTB and what we do to them, it is obvious the headset is under a lot of stress (as is the BB and linkages). If I was designing a MTB the bearing system in the headset would be completely bullet proof, spin like butter and be easily serviceable. It seems there may be room for Specialized to improve in this area. Why build that beautiful bike and then have the major stress point in the bike under done?


Because 95% of the customers won't see the value in a burlier headset or BB and will buy a bike with a prettier spec and cheaper BB/headset, if it reduces the purchase price somewhat. For some of the remaining 5%, we like the opportunity to upgrade our bikes later, so we can retain that new-bike excitement for several years.


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## will2daizzo (Dec 30, 2014)

*Stumpjumper Carbon Comp 6fattie issue*

I just bought a comp 6fattie in small and have been having a few issues with it.

The chain keeps dropping off when backpedaling on the 42T and 35T cogs. I know a simple fix would be not to back pedal but I can't avoid it sometimes when I need to level my cranks going over rocks and roots on climbs.

I'm also having issues with the chain coming in contact with the chainstay on higher gears(see pic below). I can feel it dragging when pedaling.

I brought it back to my LBS and they weren't able to fix the issues. They even had specialized sent in replacements for the cassette and chain to no avail. My LBS says it's just how the bike is designed. I just think it's annoying to have issues like these on a $4500 bike.

I just want to know if anybody else is having these issues?

Also, has anyone tried replacing the rims to a 42mm?


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

That kind of sucks about the chain issue. Does anyone think the cassette on these are crazy loud?


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

will2daizzo said:


> I just bought a comp 6fattie in small and have been having a few issues with it.
> 
> The chain keeps dropping off when backpedaling on the 42T and 35T cogs. I know a simple fix would be not to back pedal but I can't avoid it sometimes when I need to level my cranks going over rocks and roots on climbs.
> 
> ...


Gee, what a bummer. That's just unacceptable in my book. You buy what is advertised as a state of the art bike from a major company with a big R&D budget and it has issues I didn't have on the home made BMX I cobbled together when I was 13 (in the '80s).

This is what scares me about modern expensive bikes. Covered in bling and the basic geometry is great, but the devil is always in the detail. Those parts all have to be functional, durable and well engineered. It's a mountain bike that will be flogged after all. When they go wrong with minimal use that just rubs salt into the wound.

Hence this thread I started;

http://forums.mtbr.com/bike-frame-discussion/brands-known-solid-engineering-996747.html#post12343746

Who makes the best "engineered" bikes that have durable and reliable basic functionality? I am in the market for a replacement in the next 12 - 18 months but I plan to tread very carefully. It's a minefield.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

will2daizzo said:


> I just bought a comp 6fattie in small and have been having a few issues with it.
> 
> The chain keeps dropping off when backpedaling on the 42T and 35T cogs. I know a simple fix would be not to back pedal but I can't avoid it sometimes when I need to level my cranks going over rocks and roots on climbs.
> 
> ...


I have put on at least 300k on the bike now
I have not had a single problem and the bike runs very quiet, no creaks or groans
Never dropped a chain, and ridden over lots or rocky spots

As far as hub noise, ever listened to a I9 or Hope, now they are noisy


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I have demoed the 6fattie quite a bit and haven't noticed these issues.


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

Twimby said:


> I have put on at least 300k on the bike now
> I have not had a single problem and the bike runs very quiet, no creaks or groans
> Never dropped a chain, and ridden over lots or rocky spots
> 
> As far as hub noise, ever listened to a I9 or Hope, now they are noisy


I have the s-works 6fattie but have ridden the expert and comp too. Didn't have any problems. Have the LBS take the drivetrain apart and inspect it and put it back together. Check the derailleur hanger. Check the chain line. Switching from a 28t to a 30t or 32t up front might help.

Agreed. No mistaking the crazy loud buzz of I9 hubs. I'm very generous with the freehub oil which keeps them much quieter.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

There have been threads about the chain falling off 1x drivetrains when in low gears going back before there was a GX line. Do a search. I haven't had this issue, so I don't recall the solution.

For what it's worth, the 6Fattie that I demoed had this issue, but the one my LBS built-up for me did not. It may just be a fickle adjustment, as my bike got built by the owner, and the demo bike was built-up by one of the younger guys in the shop. It could also be a chainline issue related to the factory build. Maybe have the shop pull the crank and and re install it to see if they can't get the chainline improved to the point where this isn't an issue. 

The rubbing on the frame, however, is quite weird. I'll have to check to see how close minded is in those high-end gears for which I have little use on my local terrain. Any chance you wanted a 30 or 32T chainring already?


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

will2daizzo said:


> I just bought a comp 6fattie in small and have been having a few issues with it.
> 
> The chain keeps dropping off when backpedaling on the 42T and 35T cogs. I know a simple fix would be not to back pedal but I can't avoid it sometimes when I need to level my cranks going over rocks and roots on climbs.
> 
> ...


It looks like the chainstay protector bulges up where the weld is. I wonder if there is a relief cut in the backside of the protector, and it's supposed to be installed over the weld so the thing lays flat. Or if you could put a relief cut in the backside yourself.

Sorry to hear about your problems with a new bike. The LBS should fix it, keep on 'em. Tell them you're going to call Specialized.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Could it be possible they put the wrong chain on at the factory?
Put a medium chain on by mistake?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

It's a problem with all 1x11 systems, AFAIK. 

Has nothing to do with Specialized. 

Both SRAM and Shimano will do this. 

Solution: 

1) Make sure the B-screw is dialed in perfectly. 

2) Don't back pedal. 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## D_Man (Jan 7, 2004)

Le Duke said:


> It's a problem with all 1x11 systems, AFAIK.
> 
> Has nothing to do with Specialized.
> 
> ...


Yep. I occasionally have the same problem with the xx1 on my ibis ripley, and it definitely isn't Ibis' fault.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

My comp fatty, a new comp fatty in the shop, and a demo Sworks fatty would all experience the problem of the chain falling halfway down to the middle of the cassette when back pedaling in 42t. 

It improves as the chain breaks in and gets a little more flexible side to side. 

The real fix is to correct the chain line. I switched to a non-boost chainring (wolftooth) and haven't had the problem again. The rear tire is now only a few mm from the lower run of the chain, but it doesn't hit. 

Regarding the chain hitting the chain stay. Yeah specialized dropped the ball there. It will rub and bounce in the 10t cog with the stock 28t chain ring. And any smaller chain rings are unusable without further modification. Very annoying. 

I corrected all of those shortcomings by switching to a wheels mfg eccentric BB, gxp 170mm cranks and a wolftooth 24t steel chainring (non-boost). With the EBB spun to the top and shorter arms it has ground clearance that is almost acceptable. The chain almost clears the chain stay (rubs a bit in the 10t).and it doesn't fall off when back pedalling in the 42t. 

Big S made some poor engineering decisions on this hacked together bike, IMHO.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Seeing that photo on a larger screen, it looks like that is the adhesive chainstay protector that came with the bike. Take a look under the chainstay protector. My rear triangle came with a low-profile coating over the aluminum on the top of the chainstay that serves as a chain stay protector and a separate adhesive protector that me and my LBS decided not to mount until we figured out where it was needed. I haven't seen any signs that it has been needed. I think if you peel that off, your problem with the high gears will be solved.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Good to know about that potential 10t/chainstay issue. 

Historically, Spec uses a plastic chain stay protector. It can be removed, but then the chain is banging aluminum. Replacing that protector with something more low profile might eek out a little more clearance but still, not optimal according to that pic. The chain banging while you're in the 10t may be inevitable, as it's at it's loosest then and under the least tension from the derailleur. 

Just curious though, when the suspension is sagged - does the chain rise a bit higher and clearance there increase at all?


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

Le Duke said:


> It's a problem with all 1x11 systems, AFAIK.
> 
> Has nothing to do with Specialized.
> 
> ...


Another bit of "latest & greatest" kit that just doesn't work? My fear of the modern MTB grows. Perhaps new designs are rushed out the door by the marketing depts before engineering are happy it's dialled? Either that or the engineering depts are incompetent.

I'm realising I have to do a lot more research before I throw down the $ required for a nice all mountain dual suspension MTB. I don't want to be on a forum asking for help weeks after dropping $5k - $7k on a bike.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Yup, this latest and greatest bike doesn't work at all. Hacked together, can't rip because it rubs in the 10 tooth and the chain keeps dropping. Horrible...

Mitch Ropelato on the Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 6Fattie - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

enuenu said:


> Another bit of "latest & greatest" kit that just doesn't work? My fear of the modern MTB grows. Perhaps new designs are rushed out the door by the marketing depts before engineering are happy it's dialled? Either that or the engineering depts are incompetent.
> 
> I'm realising I have to do a lot more research before I throw down the $ required for a nice all mountain dual suspension MTB. I don't want to be on a forum asking for help weeks after dropping $5k - $7k on a bike.


It works flawlessly if you don't backpedal. I ride very rocky terrain and have only dropped a chain as a result of a crash.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Just got mine home today. I have exactly .7 miles on it. In the driveway. Some back pedaling. Starts to change after a few revolutions but is fine for a full revolution. Haven't tried messing with it yet


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Le Duke, to be clear, we're talking about dropping the chain off the cassette (down toward the smaller cogs from the 42 cog), not dropping the chain off the chain ring.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

This has been one of the best threads on MTBR
There has been a lot of analysing lately
I have the answer to all your questions
See below


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

majr said:


> .... I corrected all of those shortcomings by switching to a wheels mfg eccentric BB, gxp 170mm cranks and a wolftooth 24t steel chainring (non-boost). With the EBB spun to the top and shorter arms it has ground clearance that is almost acceptable. The chain almost clears the chain stay (rubs a bit in the 10t).and it doesn't fall off when back pedalling in the 42t.
> 
> Big S made some poor engineering decisions on this hacked together bike, IMHO.


I don't have the back pedal chain drop issue on my comp but have had it on other bikes and know that it is annoying. 
However I do think that I may have to go the Ebb route to raise the BB. I measured the sagged bb heights and this bike is a full 2 cm lower than my E29! Replacing the crank will be an unfortunate cost but after 4 rides it seems likely. 
I'd plan to stick with the stock 28t. Should I expect any other issues with the switch?


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

So reading between the lines the bike has no problems. That's great, I really enjoyed riding it. It's always helpful to find out if anyone who owns an item you are considering buying is having any problems with it.

Maybe I have no clue, but if the chain falls off when you backpedal and it touches parts of the bike other than those it should, I would have thought that less than ideal. Maybe bike design has progressed beyond my understanding.


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

Kind of surprised to read about chainline issues with this bike. I thought boost was supposed to help eliminate chain line issues? I don't drop rings backpedalling with my 1x11 with normal rear end, so assume this is just adjustment?

Hitting the chainstay in the lowest cog seems ridiculous to me though, especially with an r&d team like spec has. That's unacceptable.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Artnshel, you may need a new chain ring to get a better chain line as you will be moving from pf30 to gxp. The stock ring is for bb30 direct mount and is labeled "3mm offset boost 148 compatible". 
The wolftooth steel ring I used is a 6mm offset gxp direct mount that is non-boost, 49mm chain line. It is about as close as I'd be comfortable running the chain next to the rear tire, only a few mm of clearance (purgatory on 45mm internal rim). See wolftooth's explanation for the gory details Boost Chainline and 1x Boost Chainring Selection ? wolftoothcomponents.com

Make sure you get the extra long 80mm bolts if you get the wheels ebb, it ships with 75mm. They will include the long bolts if you ask.

I haven't measured it against my E29, but even with the EBB it still sits roughly 10mm lower at the pedal than my old 2012 stumpy fsr 29 (both on 170mm cranks, stumpy 29 has 2.3/2.4 tires that are much bigger than stock)


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Erock, boost does not help chain line issues. My understanding is that it simply moves the cassette outboard 3mm, and the chainring out 3mm to match. 

To be clear, again, the issue we're talking about is NOT dropping off the chainring. We're talking about the chain falling down the cassette from the 42t to the smaller cogs when back pedalling. 

I haven't experienced this issue on any other 1x setup. Although, several of my other 1x bikes have been specialized 29ers with the 142+ rear ends. Which in theory should give a chain line biased toward the bigger cogs. Maybe that's why we're seeing this? Spec really only moved the cassette out 1mm (compared to 142+) and the chainring out 3mm? I haven't measured it. Just spit ballin.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Just went down LBS for a look at the comp n expert model, I was ready to put cash deposit on the expert in s size but I am on second thoughts now that the chain will be rubbing the chain stay in the 10t cog. 
I am OK with the chain drop when back pedaling on the 42t which was what I experienced with my Mach6. Anyone on a Expert size S experienced the chain rub issue? Do I need to change to a 30t chain ring to solve this issue?

Thanks.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

You know I too noticed the poor clearance, or lack of it, on the chain stay of the chain when using the 10t cog. In fact I was quietly annoyed when I noticed this, making a note to replace the protector, which is a kind of thick rubber strip with something thinner when it wears down. Chain slap is going to happen down there - however the derailleur does actually tension the chain so well that slap is minimized. 

But I am not an apologist for Specialized.

We know that the rear triangle is a wide 29er. Asymmetrical stays may be a redesign to avoid the chain clearance problem. But the current bike is far from perfect.

As for the chain falling down the cassette, even given the chain line is optimized and the proper chain length, ghost shift is going to be a potential issue with the 1x11 no matter what frame it is on. But, and this is a big but, if the rear triangle is not properly rigid, as in sloppy pivots, and flesh stays, all kinds of crappy shifting mayhem will ensue when actual 27+ riding conditions occur.

We know from experience that even on hard tail bikes that are compliant, ghost shifting can occur in extreme situations. I ride titanium bikes which are inherently flesh and for that reason not a good choice for clydesdales that do bend in steep climbs. I also ride tandem bikes and these frames flex quite a lot too. That's why they are built so burly.

This 6fattie is a strange beast with a peculiar personality. As a single speeder the lack of tall gears is not a big deal for me. My style is about carrying speed more than pouring it on. For example I don't usually charge corners and brake as late as possible. Where everyone does that, the trail gets buckets of braking bumps too. That is besides the point. But I think this 6fattie is not a DH bike. It is an all terrain bike.

Yeah, well I am going to ride now and have fun.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

Lots of mixed reviews here. So is this bike worth buying or should I wait to see what happens in the next 6 months with + bikes.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Cody - you can get paralysis by analysis on these forums. It's a very unique bike. Will they be even better in a few years? Yes. Are they good now? Yes. It just depends if you are buying a bike right now I guess. There is always a better bike around the corner. But at some point you have to buy one. Haha

I bought it. I haven't actually gotten to ride it yet. Maybe this afternoon!!! The demo bikes convinced me that this bike made me a better rider. 

I don't think there will be significant changes in 6 months. Specialized maybe in 2017. 

Will be interesting to see if They Come out with a camber 6 fattie.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Absolutely right Derek200. There will always be something better around the corner, but why wait? I have ridden about 6 hours on a 6fattie comp and expert and in spite of the negative comment on here about rim width, chain drop and pedal strike (none of which I experienced) I loved it. No bike has ever given me such a big smile and I noticed I was even laughing to myself as I was riding my local trails because I was doing things I could never do on other bikes. I can only imagine how much eaiser it will make unfamiliar trails.
I have ordered one and can't wait for it to arrive.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Ok. First ride on my stumpjumper 6fattie comp. had a wrestling tournament and swim team practice and all kinds of other stuff. So snuck out with one of my sons to hit s sweet 5 mile loop a few miles from the house. Finished up just before it got dark.





















I had a blast. I am out of shape (although round is technically a shape) but blasted a few of the technical sections faster than I have before. And was just grinning the whole loop.

The rear derailleur needs adjusting. But will fix that tomorrow morning. My wife had my pedals in her van and was out of town so had to ride with the test ride pedals.

Still have to play with the suspension. It was so plush. I can't really find a fault with how it handles. Had a few pedal strikes but that low bb makes you feel so stable. Not sure I would change it. Need to play with tire pressure. Was at 10 in the front and 15 in the back. Not sure I need to go super low. The big tires and the suspension just eat everything. Don't think it matters. Haha. It seems like this bike has a very broad sweet spot. Will get it out tomorrow on another trail closer to home tomorrow that has some good chunk sections.

Maybe try taking a little air of of the fork and the tires. All that will take me a few rides to get sorted.

Big smiles right now!


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

After noticing no issues with chainstay rub or dropping from the 42, I had to have a look see. Out today on snowy muddy trails, loving the stability, traction and geometry of this bike, and did some back pedaling to see what the fuss is about. So yeah, after a revolution or two I start to drop down on the cog, so BFD? When ratcheting quick less than quarter revolutions a complete non-issue. next, the 10t cog. So I'm a solid intermediate rider, a few feet of air here and there, hucking one to two foot drops, using as much of that 10 cog as I can, trying to notice some issue. Again, in terms of peformance and feel, for all I could sense there could have been an inch of clearance. So I take a look. Yeah, in the 10 cog the is about 2 mm of clearance with the aprox 6ish mm thick plastic chain stay guard, at a point along the chain near the chainwheel. Now ask me if I care? Under chain tension there is no rubbing. So, next I am guessing that on hucks and jumps the chain slaps the guard. Well I have put in about 6 hours a week of aggressive trail riding for past 3 weeks since purchasing the comp, and using the full of range of gears. So i decided to take a closer look at that plastic guard. No clear evidence of abrasion so far, suggesting that what contact there has been with my riding is of no clear significance. so again - for me - a non issue. Of course, YMMV. What is substantive, though, is how much I am digging this bike! Absolutely best 3k I have spent in a long time!


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Yeah. Didn't notice any 10t problems at all on my large. The one thing I don't think I like is..... Well I just have a preference for shimano shifting. Everyone talks about range. I like smaller jumps between gears.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Also was worried I should have gotten the carbon frame. But I couldn't really tell a difference. The shop owner told me the carbon frame would be more accurate etc. 

I just noticed I was less worried about singing up the aluminum than I am when I ride my sons carbon hardtail. 

I'm a huge fan of this bike. I think it will be better when it gets updated but it is a great bike as it is. And I wouldn't spend the money on wider rims.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks guys on clearing up the issue with the 10t cog rub on chain stay issue. Thats my only issue on the e bike. I'll properly go up to 30t chain ring though.


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## puttsey (Oct 16, 2004)

puttsey said:


> Wondering if anyone has a picture of the XL aluminum model. I am curious to see if it has the weird gap of tubing near the headtube like the SJ 29ers do.


anyone?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

My guess is it is the exact same frame as the 650 stumpy. The linkage and the rear triangle are different


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## puttsey (Oct 16, 2004)

Derek200 said:


> My guess is it is the exact same frame as the 650 stumpy. The linkage and the rear triangle are different


Specialized even claims it's the same front triangle as the 29er, so no


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Lots of bench-riding skepticism in this thread... This thing is just a blast to ride. I suppose I'll miss the carbon rear triangle when it comes out, but not missing the 38mm rims. I can't find any faults with the 30mm rims and the fact that they are ~1500 grams for the set in this size is just crazy.

I most recently hit up Wilder ranch in Santa Cruz. Nothing too technical, but a good mix of many varieties of trails and conditions. This thing is just awesome all the time. I made a very tight twisty section for the first time. Never made that section on my 2007 Enduro SL. I also saw a LOT of 6Fatties out there. Probably about 5. My guess is that a local shop I renting them out. When I commented on other 6fatties, the riders were like, "huh?"

For technical climbs, the 16 PSI rear tire pressure on the 3.0 tire allows the tire to grasp (not just grip) chunder and roots to get you up anything. The Purgatory front just doesn't let go.


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## Rightcoaster (Dec 25, 2006)

*gotta say*

I too am not hating on the narrower rims, honestly I did think that I would. Air pressure matters, and the rims have held up to bigger drops then I expected to take on this bike. 
The lower bottom bracket is really my only complaint, and really I am learning how to deal with it. ohh, I have the basic comp model and this bike just rips !


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, 

Just checked, the Expert model fork is not the FOX 34 Float Performance Elite Air FIT4 3-Modes with low speed adj? I can't find the low speed adjust, just the 3 modes. Is it a FIT4? Thanks.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

brenick said:


> Absolutely right Derek200. There will always be something better around the corner, but why wait? I have ridden about 6 hours on a 6fattie comp and expert and in spite of the negative comment on here about rim width, chain drop and pedal strike (none of which I experienced) I loved it. No bike has ever given me such a big smile and I noticed I was even laughing to myself as I was riding my local trails because I was doing things I could never do on other bikes. I can only imagine how much eaiser it will make unfamiliar trails.
> I have ordered one and can't wait for it to arrive.


You're absolutely right about unfamiliar trails. I did a group ride, where the faster guys, on a couple occasions, gotbacked-up atop a technical decent or in a rock garden, and I've been able to ad lib my way around them on less preferred lines or on the hairy edge of a slab and trust that the bike would hold the line and smooth-out the rough edges. It is obviously a very forgiving and fun ride. I expect that I will ski a lot less this winter, simply because I'm having so much fun in the flatlands.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Just checked, the Expert model fork is not the FOX 34 Float Performance Elite Air FIT4 3-Modes with low speed adj? I can't find the low speed adjust, just the 3 modes. Is it a FIT4? Thanks.


It is a FIT4 damper that just doesn't have the finer compression damping adjustment on the open mode.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi phride,

Thanks for e help. Thought I saw the adjustor knob for comp adjustments in open mode for the expert model, but maybe I'm wrong. Why Speesh can't put e adjustment knob, I don't understand...


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Rightcoaster said:


> I too am not hating on the narrower rims, honestly I did think that I would. Air pressure matters, and the rims have held up to bigger drops then I expected to take on this bike.
> The lower bottom bracket is really my only complaint, and really I am learning how to deal with it. ohh, I have the basic comp model and this bike just rips !


Damn... I wanna do drops like that when I grow up... Nice pic


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Has anyone considered an offset shock mount to raise the BB just a hair?


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

matto6 said:


> Has anyone considered an offset shock mount to raise the BB just a hair?


Well to gain .25 inch at BB, the front end needs to come up about .6 inches, which slackens head angle by about 3/4 of a degree.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Not a longer fork or angleset headset. One of these offset shock mounts to raise the BB and slightly steepen the head angle.

http://www.offsetbushings.com/

I have no idea of the actually fit/work on a 6fattie... I'm asking.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

FSR rears have a yoke on the rear of the shock (no bushing to offset) and even if you try the front I'm not sure there's enough clearance between the yoke and the seat post with rear suspension extended all the way.


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## matto6 (Dec 28, 2013)

Ugh yeah if the yolk is close forget it.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi phride,
> 
> Thanks for e help. Thought I saw the adjustor knob for comp adjustments in open mode for the expert model, but maybe I'm wrong. Why Speesh can't put e adjustment knob, I don't understand...


They can if you want to pay more.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Got another short ride today. Was able to put my clipless pedals on. 

I still need to adjust the rear derailleur. It is running whacky. I may throw it into the stand today. 

This bike is comfortable to ride. I rode one of the more technical trails in area today. Lots of sharp limestone ledges and loose balls of limestone and the occasions Ozark orange. And the tires and or the suspension just smooth it out. 

Didn't really adjust anything. 10psi up front. 15 psi in the rear. I banged the rim on one ledge I decided to just see if the tore would roll over it without me lifting up. But no burp or anything. 

Also riding it around in the woods behind my house. Easy to just rode where there is no trail. Could become a new sport perhaps!!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi, you mean there is an option or I need to upgrade it myself? Thanks.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

The S-works is the only model that comes with the Factory series fork (compression damping adjustable) but I am sure your LBS could upgrade you for a price.


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## okcorral0 (Jan 5, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi, you mean there is an option or I need to upgrade it myself? Thanks.


The factory shock has the open mode adjust capability. Only the s-works has factory for front and rear.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Brenick, thank you for the tips.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

No problem


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

matto6 said:


> Not a longer fork or angleset headset. One of these offset shock mounts to raise the BB and slightly steepen the head angle.
> 
> Offsetbushings.com - Standard & Offset bicycle shock hardware - Offset Bushings | Shock Mounting Hardware
> 
> I have no idea of the actually fit/work on a 6fattie... I'm asking.


Oh, ok. My perspective though is that I especially like the geometry on this bike, and particularly the stability on the downhill side of trail riding, where Infind myself pursuing increasingly aggressive lines with each passing week. So for me I would never look to raise the BB at the expense of steepening the HA. As for the BB, I do get the occasional pedal strike, but find that I am quickly and automatically adjusting my riding technique such that this is not an issue. Clearly though the is something that will be rider specific. On another note I just went tubeless. Took two tries with back wheel to get a good seal, but now good! Was out yesterday am riding 13 psi front 14 back. Traction is great, with me still pushing limits climbing and cornering with bike feeling Velcroed to ground. Getting ready for to go out this am. Gotta love riding on frozen mud trails!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

This popped up today. Dude ripping a carbon comp:


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## KP snowman (Mar 4, 2010)

That`s my bike ,wish I could ride like ;-)


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## Jeepnick (Nov 6, 2015)

KP snowman said:


> That`s my bike ,wish I could ride like ;-)


Mine too
Picked one up a couple weeks ago
Someday....


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

willembad said:


> About a hundred miles on it, granted I'm in Florida, so no long climbs but I love this bike. I'm up to cornering speeds that seems ridiculous and it has stuck every time. Getting used to the BB height didn't take long, the key for me has been changing my line from what I used to pick on the hardtail and just charging over the tallest spot in the trail. The wheels and suspension eats it all so no need to ride around or between stuff. I did put a set of Mulefut 50 SL's on it, which I'm completely happy with, but the stock wheel-set was not bad at all.
> View attachment 1031373


Nice ride Willembad! Bring that thing on up to Tallahassee...... no mountains but between here (Tom Brown, Cadillac,Munson) and Ocala (Santos) you can test the sketchy edges a bit. Im creeping up on just 100 miles on my Comp. Everyone looks at me like im an alien right now but this time next year Ill be surprised not to see a ton more Fatties on the trails for sure!


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Haha. 6fattie is appropriate name in more ways than one. You said you'd see a ton more. Well it won't take many of hear bikes to equal a ton! Haha


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

Pretty witty bud


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

LOL! Derek200...... 64.516 of them! Fatties are definitely not a weight weenie's dream build for sure! I can drop about 20 pounds of gut and get some carbon bars but Im definitely pleased with this bike!


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Yeah. I'm loving mine too. I guess this bike makes me an ex weight weenie. Sort of like all the guys on the riot thread


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## NEPMTBA (Apr 7, 2007)

KP snowman said:


> That`s my bike ,wish I could ride like ;-)


 I once saw KP snowman riding like that...
....then he disappeared into thin air!


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

*6 Fattie problems???*








A picture of the 6 fattie chain clearance in top gear. No issue there.
Ridden about 8 hours so far and had one pedal strike. Not a big issue.
Narrow rims? I am running 15psi both ends and have had no sign of the tyres squirming so will drop the pressure a bit and see what happens.
I really like the profile of the tyres - round (not square like a car tyre) which means the bike can be lent over predictably.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Forgot to mention in my last post. BB hight?
A mate and I were out riding on Tuesday evening. We both rode over a sharp little hump about 1.2m high. My mate noticed he clipped the top of the hump as he rode over it and has put a nice little ding in the bottom of his carbon chain stay, right under the linkage. Not impressed as it was only his 4th ride on the new Santa Cruz Bronson (2015 model). 
6 Fattie had no such problem.
PS. Tubeless and carbon bars have got the weight of my 6fattie comp (size small) to 13.43kg (29.61 lbs) with crank bros candy pedals.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

That sounds like more of a wheelbase and line selection issue than a question of BB height. The 6Fattie BB height is considerably lower, unless you are running your tires at a higher pressure than optimal and running your suspension on the firm side compared to your friend.


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## Jeepnick (Nov 6, 2015)

brenick said:


> Forgot to mention in my last post. BB hight?
> A mate and I were out riding on Tuesday evening. We both rode over a sharp little hump about 1.2m high. My mate noticed he clipped the top of the hump as he rode over it and has put a nice ding in the bottom of his carbon chain stay, right under the linkage. Not impressed as it was only his 4th ride on the new Santa Cruz Bronson (2015 model).
> 6 Fattie had no such problem.
> PS. Tubeless and carbon bars have got the weight of my 6fattie comp (size small) to 13.43kg (29.61 lbs) with crank bros candy pedals.


Which carbon bars did you go with?


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

crazyoldfool said:


> Nice ride Willembad! Bring that thing on up to Tallahassee...... no mountains but between here (Tom Brown, Cadillac,Munson) and Ocala (Santos) you can test the sketchy edges a bit. Im creeping up on just 100 miles on my Comp. Everyone looks at me like im an alien right now but this time next year Ill be surprised not to see a ton more Fatties on the trails for sure!


About half the miles was the OMBA Santos Epic. Spent a weekend up there riding everything but the jump track. This bike is a blast.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

phride said:


> That sounds like more of a wheelbase and line selection issue than a question of BB height. The 6Fattie BB height is considerably lower, unless you are running your tires at a higher pressure than optimal and running your suspension on the firm side compared to your friend.


True about BB hight, but if you look at the Bronson, the chainstay, where it connects to the linkage, is much lower than the BB. Just check out the photo and you will see that.







Sometimes the figures don't tell the real story. We rode the same line (there was only one) at the same speed and he is running 10psi more tire pressure than me. Couldn't tell you exactly what suspension settings he is running but he knows how to set up a bike.
Wheelbase, as you said, could contribute but the difference is only 18mm (0.71 inches)


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Jeepnick said:


> Which carbon bars did you go with?


Knock off Race Face.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Yikes! That would make me want an aluminum rear triangle. That more than makes up for the lower bottom bracket on the Stumpy. Any lower and the pivot would double as a bash guard.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

Jesus H Christ, this thread had me freaking out... I emailed Cam McRae at NSMB who is about to finish a long term review of the Comp Carbon, and he said he had no problems with a low BB and pedal strikes in British Columbia; and secondly I was wondering what was up with the 10T cog and occasional chain rub, but then it was suggested to me "when are you actually in that cog??" which the answer was "rarely".

So that said, he told me he hopes his final review will be out soon, he got the review bike in October if I recall.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Im eager to see if Specialized releases grid series for their 3.0 tires and possibly releasing a 2.8 tire.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

2.8 might be interesting. Hopefully it wouldn't lower bike any? I think I could live with narrower (slightly) but to be proportionally similar it seems like you would lose some more Bb height. But I don't know! I like the tire set up as is right now.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

XJaredX said:


> Jesus H Christ, this thread had me freaking out... I emailed Cam McRae at NSMB who is about to finish a long term review of the Comp Carbon, and he said he had no problems with a low BB and pedal strikes in British Columbia; and secondly I was wondering what was up with the 10T cog and occasional chain rub, but then it was suggested to me "when are you actually in that cog??" which the answer was "rarely".
> 
> So that said, he told me he hopes his final review will be out soon, he got the review bike in October if I recall.


As you can see from the photo I posted earlier there is no problem with chain clearance in the 10t on my bike (under power the chain actually rises slightly too). Also, I think if this is an issue for anybody they may want to replace the 28t chainring with a 30t or 32t which will do two things - raise the chain slightly and make them use the 10t even less.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I was ready to get a nobby nic 2.8 for the rear of my fattie, then I heard that it really measures 2.6. Waiting for a good 2.8 to come out


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Collecting my 6fattie in a day time , LBS nice enough to swap the 28t for a 30t, will try if the rubbing gonna happen, if at all.

Looking at it, think carbon bars for now, and maybe later a 35mm inner width carbon rims addition.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

To address the concerns:

- The low bb really only takes getting used to. After I learned when/where to ratchet, pedal strikes virtually disappeared. 
- The chain rub is non-existant, even in the 10t cog. There is a big rubber thing on the chainstay that keeps everything in check. However, Cam is right: you will probably never be in that gear (or in the 42t gear for that matter). 
- Rim width on this bike doesn't matter. I honestly wouldn't go anything wider than the 30mm that comes on them, imho. Too wide and you get a squared off tread, which will make it behave like a fatbike.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Thustlewhumber said:


> To address the concerns:
> 
> - The low bb really only takes getting used to. After I learned when/where to ratchet, pedal strikes virtually disappeared.
> - The chain rub is non-existant, even in the 10t cog. There is a big rubber thing on the chainstay that keeps everything in check. However, Cam is right: you will probably never be in that gear (or in the 42t gear for that matter).
> - Rim width on this bike doesn't matter. I honestly wouldn't go anything wider than the 30mm that comes on them, imho. Too wide and you get a squared off tread, which will make it behave like a fatbike.


My toothpick legs, get to see 42 plenty, I could sell the 10 off "as in new condition".
I was worried the 28 front ring would be to big, but is just right


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Twimby said:


> My toothpick legs, get to see 42 plenty, I could sell the 10 off "as in new condition".
> I was worried the 28 front ring would be to big, but is just right


I find gearing works for me as is - although the 42 only rarely comes into play, and when it does it calls for quite a crazy cadence to hold a line. The 10 has seen little use, but when used the clearance is entirely a non issue. One nice thing is how well the Comp drive train is working for me. My AM workout involve several quite challenging grades, and the occasional shifting mid climb under full tension has been quick and smooth. Still experimenting with tire pressure. Tubeless setup is working very well, and this am was running 13 psi front and back. Velcro like traction but one brief burp of air up front catching the edge of a foot high rock in a clumsy rollover. Thinking 13-15 is the sweet spot for me. Also getting increasingly aggresive on descents, finding more and more confidence in the geometry.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> To address the concerns:
> 
> - The low bb really only takes getting used to. After I learned when/where to ratchet, pedal strikes virtually disappeared.
> 
> ...


Comments are embedded above >>>


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'm as guilty as anyone about hyping the low BB, because I was really concerned that I'd find myself on my ass at the bottom of a trialsey stair-step climb after bashing my pedals halfway up. Having ridden the bike for a month, I'm surprised how little of an issue it is. I simply carry more speed and run a higher gear wherever possible to give me more freedom to ratchet my pedals as needed. The traction is good enough that the extra torque is manageable on loose, rocky stuff, and the drive train behaves well enough that I can downshift to lower gears mid-climb if my engine isn't up for it, so this is not as limiting as it might sound. 

The one thing I do want to do is get a better rear wheel where the hub has more POE. I've definitely been stopped by that, although more often where it's just a tough, skinny line that would challenge me on any bike. I'll be getting out for part of the day on a higher BB 26er for the first time in ages this weekend, while a friend demos my 6Fattie on some very technical terrain. 

Given that motivation for a new wheel, I'm definitely interested in reports from folks who upgrade the Roval Fattie SLs to wider wheels to get a good comparison of performance.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> To address the concerns:
> - Rim width on this bike doesn't matter. I honestly wouldn't go anything wider than the 30mm that comes on them, imho. Too wide and you get a squared off tread, which will make it behave like a fatbike.


Rim width matter a lot for me ! I own a plus bike with Scraper Rims I45. I try a Specy 29er Enduro conversion with Roval 650B wheels and I can feel the difference ! With large rim the sidewalls are more firm, especially when cornering. Tires are not square. With the narrow rims sidewalls are flexy and must inflate more for not bump the rim and not risk to puff air and sealant cause too much twist.

Whit the narrow rims tyre have a bad contact too. Why use plus large tyre if at the end don't take the full advantage of ?


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

MISTER HYDE said:


> ... Tires are not square. With the narrow rims sidewalls are flexy and must inflate more for not bump the rim and not risk to puff air and sealant cause too much twist.
> 
> Whit the narrow rims tyre have a bad contact too. Why use plus large tyre if at the end don't take the full advantage of ?
> 
> View attachment 1034976


What is that picture supposed to illustrate? I see a narrow tire on a narrow rim and a large tire on a wide rim. Of the two, it appears the large tire is more susceptible to rim/tire damage.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> What is that picture supposed to illustrate? I see a narrow tire on a narrow rim and a large tire on a wide rim. Of the two, it appears the large tire is more susceptible to rim/tire damage.


The knob on the side is well supported on the ground on a large rim. Picture is taken from the Scott Genius Plus presentation (Maybe is a little bit emphasized 😉).


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

Seems like Scott recommends you ride a fat bike. With double wall rims.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I've said this before, but I'm going to assume Specialized knew what they were doing when spec'ing the FSR's with the 29-30mm rimes and the Ruze/Fuse with the wider rims.

Once I own my bike for a while I might move to a wider rim to see, but on my fatbike, boy oh boy do I hate the profile of the tires on my 90mm rims for anything other than winter snow use. 9 months of the year I'm on 70mm rims


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

I just wanted to share my opinions of the comp 6fattie and what I feel are some shortcomings (for my trails, and usage, which aren't the same as yours!)

*TLDR:* This bike absolutely rips on rocky/burly back country trails. Descending is a blast, and it climbs very adequately.

If you don't ride in the pointy rocks, and up/down steep climbs, just skip the rest, it doesn't apply.

*Shortcomings:*
1. Low BB - A side effect from reusing a 29er main frame. The BB is just unforgivably low in the East coast rocks. I raised mine 15mm with a Wheels Mfg EBB (10mm up), and 170mm GXP XX1 crank (5mm up), that got it to be almost acceptable. I'd love an extra 5-10mm or pedal clearance on the rocks.

2. Poor Quality Control on seat tube welds. On the aluminum frame fattie there is a weld on the FSR rocker link pivot that protrudes into the seat tube and interrupts seat post insertion. You can't use the last ~30mm or so to slam the post. This is not a problem on carbon frames. I couldn't hit my fit numbers on the comp frame and stock 125mm dropper. 5'8, medium frame, 684mm BB center to top of saddle center. 695mm with an extended post "fully slammed" is the minimum the frame would allow. Bear this in mind as you decide on a size, especially if the s-works demo bike fit you fine, like what happened to me.

3. Narrow rims - Ok, so I initially thought this was a big deal. And it kind of is. The stock tire profiles on a 29mm internal rim look ridiculous, the side knobs look like they will never get engaged in a corner. At low pressures, the tire deforms enough that they might start to, but, it didn't look ideal. The bike rides just fine with them! That said, I still built up a nice set of 45mm internal carbon wheels. It squared the tires off enough that they looked like normal tires, just bigger. It DOES ride better, but it isn't really a big deal. I think it climbs with better rear traction due to the squared off (relatively) profile getting more knobs on the ground.

4. Chain to chainstay clearance - It is tight, but works fine in stock form. The real problem is that you can't go any smaller than 28t. If you don't need/want to go smaller, this is not an issue. I wanted to use the fatty for slow speed rock crawling, so it is a problem for me. The previously mentioned eccentric BB moved the BB up 10mm, so I can run down to a 24t chainring, barely. It rubs gouges in the rubber pad, but hasn't gone through it to the aluminum.

*Minor issues that I'm going to nit pick about:*
5. Chain line - My bike, and a few I tested, will let the chain fall off the 42t cog down to the middle cassette cogs when back pedaling. If you don't climb steep stuff in the 42t (and occasionally dab and have to restart), this isn't a problem for you. This decreased in frequency as the chain broke in, but it's still annoying. I went to a Wolftooth GXP (for the eccentric BB, remember) NON-BOOST chainring. This moves the chain ~3mm inboard from a boost ring. It completely eliminated the issue. Tire clearance to the lower run of the chain got tight (~3mm on a Bridger/Purgatory on wide rims. Plenty of clearance with Dirt Wizards), but it never hit.

6. Rear thru axle - Specialized (poorly) knocked off the DT Swiss RWS design, which is my favorite thru axle design. The Specialized version requires you to loosen a bolt to adjust the clocking, instead of just pulling the handle out and rotating, like on the DT. No biggie. The problem I had was that the axle would occasionally start to loosen on its own! I tightened it before a mellow ride, I'm sure. At about the 1 hour mark my derailleur wasn't indexing well, and it was getting clunky sounding. I found that the thru axle had spun open 2 full turns. Weird. I took everything apart, cleaned/greased, reassembled. It happened a few more times, even though I was getting it very hand tight. Hasn't happened the past 5-10 rides though. ::shrug::

7. Component spec off from the spec sheet - Real minor complaint, but the bars and stem that it came with weren't what was on the spec sheet. 50mm vs 60mm stem, and flat vs riser bars in a different alloy. Reviews (not the spec sheet) indicated 203/180mm rotors, mine came with 180/180mm. If it's important to you, check it before you leave the dealer.

8. Headset noise - Most of my Specialized bikes seem to develop noise in the headset. I don't really know why. The fattie is no different. Perfectly quiet for the first 5 rides. The headset started getting loud, fast. Torqued it up, slightly better, but still loud. Took it apart to clean/grease. I found that the lower bearing had separated. I cleaned it up, reinstalled the shield and tucked it back together with lots of grease. Quiet, and has remained quiet.

*Side notes, fyi, and general review thoughts:*
9. Rear end/BB creaking - I thought I had some noise coming from the BB. Turns out it was the rear end/axle/dropouts. I'm not sure what exactly, but I cleaned and greased everything back there and it has been quiet since. Check that out if yours is making noise.

10. Tires! - The stock tires, Purg/GC are great in the dirt, leaves, logs, sandy soil, etc. But they suck on East coast exposed rock. The rubber is just too hard. WTB Bridgers were only a little better. Dirt Wizards (48a vs 60a for the other tires) seems to be doing much better. If you ride in pointy rocks, expect the sidewalls of the control case plus size tires to last about as long as the normal size control case tires (not too long for me). The control case tires seem to seep sealant through the sidewalls. It only gets worse as they wear, but doesn't really affect anything.

11. Setup/Build - I'm not sure how much of this was done at the factory, or at the shop. But mine came with 2 totally rounded spoke nipples. And the cassette was torqued down by a gorilla with a cheater bar.

12. Wheel build - I thought the 24/28 spoke aluminum wheels would be too wimpy, but, they seemed plenty strong. Rear: 1105g, Front: 887g. With snap in rim strips and tubeless valves. 21 POE, if I recall. Tubeless setup stock was super easy.
I built up some 45mm internal LB rims to 32h X0 hubs on DT Comp spokes and DT proloc nipples. 1759g. They are excellent (but not really as big of a difference compared to stock as I thought they would be)

13. SRAM GX - I feared this group might be flimsy feeling like the old x7/x9 stuff. But it feels nice, and works well (until I smashed the derailleur into a rock at a switchback apex, doh). No complaints.

14. Deore Brakes - As mentioned above, mine came with 180mm rotors F/R, not the 203/180mm combo as some reviews mentioned. They seem very nice, quiet, typical Shimano stuff. The stock pads are resin with fins. They are wearing fast and a little weak feeling. I have sintered metallic pads with fins waiting to go in next.

15. Internal cable routing - I had to replace the rear shift cable/housing, and it was pretty easy. Seems to be well executed routing. Odd that the rear brake is exposed, even though there is an extra hole in the top tube, and around the bottom of the BB...

16. Dropper - The IRcc was super easy to get used to coming from the old 3 position command post. It feels very much like the previous year 3 position alien head design, and wayyy better/smoother than the old command post that used the round single bolt design. The SRL lever is amazing. Such a simple upgrade made a massive difference is feel. This is the best lever on the market.

17. Geometery - Other than the BB height, mentioned at the top, Specialized nailed this one. I have a 2012 SJ FSR 29, and an Enduro 29. I was very excited to get a stumpy with the short chainstays like the enduro has. Fantastic. I'm not sure if it's the tire volume, the headtube angle, long front center, or some combination, but it rolls over rocks with a rollover "feel" even better than a 29er. Going to a smaller diameter wheel had me fearful I'd lose that rollover. Not at all. Both of those bikes are going to be sold, the fatty covers both riding styles better than either of those bikes do independently.

18. Fox suspension tune - Again, they nailed it. It took a few rides to get the air pressures dialed, and a few clicks of rebound. Both ends feel balanced, active, and plush, without feeling bouncy or bottoming out easily. Very easy setup. I now prefer this fox 34 over the pike (which was hard to set up, and got shitty feeling very quickly).
I find that I can climb the techy stuff ok with both ends "locked" out to gain even more pedal clearance. The big tires give some squish, and the suspension does move some to keep things calm.

Alright, this got way too long. I'm happy to answer any specific questions or to take measurements for you.


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## MISTER HYDE (Feb 4, 2015)

29mm internal are the same width of the rims with 2.3" tire on a Camber or Enduro bike. The GC I try was flexy and inaccurate expecially on front wheel that was self steering like a FAT with low pressure. I need to push up the pressure but this mean more rebounds. 
My Trax Fatty on Scraper i45 rims are twice firm. I know Specialized are going to made plus tires in grid version. This may help but IMHO rims need to be more large too.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

majr said:


> 17. Geometery


Is that where short top tube long chainstay designs go to die?


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Great in-depth review majr. 
I would just like to add something towards the "narrow rim" debate.
I come from a motorcycling background. Motorcycles (well the dozen or so I have owned) do have tyres with a very round tread profile (unlike a car tyre) so the profile looks fairly normal to me.
The knobs on the "side" of the tyre are not just for cornering. If you are riding up out of a washout for instance, the side knobs provide grip even though the bike is upright and you are not actually cornering.
I haven't had my 6fat for long (about 10 hours riding) and am still experimenting with tyre pressures. I am currently running 13psi front and back and have yet to notice any tyre squirm or other undesirable characteristics that could be associated with the 29mm rim. I will try going a bit lower and see what happens.
I think the rim 'issue' will come down to the type of rider and type of riding you do. I am a light weight at 65kg and so far I am more than happy with the feel and performance of the stock Specialized tyres on those rims. A 100kg rider on another brand/model of tyre may not be.
PS. Like you I don't know why the rear brake cable is not internally routed???


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

18. Fox suspension tune - Again, they nailed it. It took a few rides to get the air pressures dialed, and a few clicks of rebound. Both ends feel balanced, active, and plush, without feeling bouncy or bottoming out easily. Very easy setup. I now prefer this fox 34 over the pike (which was hard to set up, and got shitty feeling very quickly).
I find that I can climb the techy stuff ok with both ends "locked" out to gain even more pedal clearance. The big tires give some squish, and the suspension does move some to keep things calm.

Can you give your weight and settings please

Tried the backpedaling, mine stays put


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

I just answered my own question about the rear brake not being internally routed.
Specialized did drop the ball on this one.
The two holes in the alloy frame the cables go into are only about 4.5mm diameter. Large enough for a shifter cable but not for a hydraulic brake cable.
Bugger. Where's my drill.....


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Twimby said:


> Can you give your weight and settings please
> 
> Tried the backpedaling, mine stays put


152lb. Trail settings: 45psi fork, don't recall rebound off the top of my head. 138 psi shock, rebound 8 clicks in from full fast.

Bike park or bigger hits would obviously require a firmer setup.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Since getting the 6f I have not looked back much, but do fondly recall the hours I put in test riding the Foes Mutz set up 26x3.8-a great bike! But this gets me wondering about the possibility of 275 x 3.8 (Bontrager Hodag) or 26x3.8 for a second snow/winter wheel set for the 6f. Eyeballing, seems unlikely the 275x3.8 would fit, but 26x3.8 seems possible. Basically just fantasizing as I look at the forecast!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, 

Just took my 6F expert home, I was trying to set her up but need help from you guys. I converted it tubeless and was trying to squeeze the original inner tube into the SWAT bag but it wouldn't fit, may I know what sizes of inner tubes you all fit into the SWAT bag for spare?

TIA


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have the comp so no swat, but a regular 27.5 tube will still get you home.
I got one of the backcontry straps. Tucks the fatty tube nice under the seat


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

majr said:


> 152lb. Trail settings: 45psi fork, don't recall rebound off the top of my head. 138 psi shock, rebound 8 clicks in from full fast.
> 
> Bike park or bigger hits would obviously require a firmer setup.


Thanks. I am about 165 (metric here). Have not got full travel out of the fork yet


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Full travel has almost been achieved on mine. It takes a breaking in period. Beyond that, however, the terrain is a determinant. Paltry terrain is absorbed by the tires, and the fork just does not seem to get the spikes to max out the travel. That is my take.

Muddy today. So riding a different bike.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Have about 4 rides on my s-works 6f now. I'm super happy with this bike. It just rips. I've been breaking pr's on every ride already, still dialing in air pressures. Down to 13f/ 15r and it feels really good. I weigh 165 lbs. the only minor complaint is the rear ground control tire doesn't stop so well on fast rocky descents.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Perhaps because of the better grip up front you are braking harder and unweighting the rear wheel more?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I got another ride today on my comp 6fattie. Then my son took it for a ride.

Seems to be a bike we all fight after to ride. Several people asked to rode my bike today. But I was breathing so hard I couldn't respond. I am officially fat and out of shape now. 

Need to get a light to try to get in some weekday rides in


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Twimby, thks for the pointer.

So we actually can't fit the actual bigger inner tube into the swat then.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

It wasn't too muddy today and I could have taken the 6fat out. The photo above is not from today.

Still, I have work to do on this nearly new bike. Brake squeal on the XT system front caliper is bad. The headset needs to be broken down and reassembled properly.

I am converting this to a 29er as well. When it goes together this way I promise to do some pictorial comparison rides next year!

(If the photo above screws up the thread aspect ratio I will delete it.)


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

revver said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Just took my 6F expert home, I was trying to set her up but need help from you guys. I converted it tubeless and was trying to squeeze the original inner tube into the SWAT bag but it wouldn't fit, may I know what sizes of inner tubes you all fit into the SWAT bag for spare?
> 
> TIA


The tubes that came with the bike can fit, because I have done it. And I did comment on this thread about it as well, complaining that it really didn't fit.

The idea of storing it under the seat is pretty good. And as others have pointed out, it is for emergency, and we can can use a smaller thinner tube. Hence, while I haven't sourced one yet, I think a few thin walled 27.5 tubes will find us next year.

I love riding without a pack when I can.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

I think on some of those pro enduro bikes you see an emergency tube zip tied into the bottom of the main triangle above the bb.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks guys.

I was trying to wrap the original bigger inner tubes with the provided wrap and I can't even bundle it up with the Velcro, think I need to find a way to try wrap it up tighter next time, for now, I'm using a normal 27.5 inner tube. 2 CO2 n a handpump went in too, and there's still room for my Topeak multi tools.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Remove the valve core, flatten the tube and start folding it from the end furthest from the valve pushing the air out as you go. Best way to get them as small as possible.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

I did it by squeezing harder. But indeed, the swat bag is to small for a fat tie tire. I put and extra rubberband. It also difficult to squeeze in to the compartment


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

This is funny. I had shop convert my bike to tubeless And bought a little pack to put under my seat. It took several tries with talc powder to get that beast of a tube in there. 

I might just go with a regular 27.5 tube for emergency purposes


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Loving this bike again, having gotten out on some new trails. Went down steep, lumpy trails with aplomb. Where my friends were furiously pedaling their long-travel 26ers downhill through the chunder, I was catching right up to them pedaling idly and coasting and just floating over the field of babyheads. So much fun. 

The Ground Control did very nicely hooking-up with the steep granite ramps on the trails today. I really leaned on it, and the bike billy goated it's way up the steeps.


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

I don't think I'm worried anymore about BB height. Was just looking at specs for the Scott Genius 27.5+ and the BB height is 315mm compared to 331 of the Stumpy. And my old Transition Bandit 29 was similar to the Stumpy. And I had no issues with that one aside from the occasional pedal strike in areas I later learned to pump over.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

XJaredX said:


> I don't think I'm worried anymore about BB height. Was just looking at specs for the Scott Genius 27.5+ and the BB height is 315mm compared to 331 of the Stumpy. And my old Transition Bandit 29 was similar to the Stumpy. And I had no issues with that one aside from the occasional pedal strike in areas I later learned to pump over.


Specs I see for the Genius 27.5+ give 335mm-340mm BB hight?


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## XJaredX (Apr 17, 2006)

brenick said:


> Specs I see for the Genius 27.5+ give 335mm-340mm BB hight?


I got it from this PDF sheet and OOPS I was looking at the Scale accidentally.

...but on the other hand, knowing that I had a slack and low bike in the past with no issues means I won't mind.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

XJaredX said:


> I got it from this PDF sheet and OOPS I was looking at the Scale accidentally.
> 
> ...but on the other hand, knowing that I had a slack and low bike in the past with no issues means I won't mind.


Same. I am having no issues with pedal strike on my 6fat comp.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Quick update:

Did back to back comparisons between a 4.8" Pivot LES Fat and my 6Fattie in extremely muddy, wet, rocky, rooty, nasty conditions. I cleared more things on the 6Fattie just because I was able to pick up the front/rear and move them where I wanted, whereas the fatbike was just a lumbering plow through/over stuff. The 6Fattie has probably about 90% of the traction of a fatbike, but it is about 1000% more maneuverable.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

That's nice to know because I was thinking of selling my fat bike to help fund my 6fattie. After reading I may as well.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Quick update:
> 
> Did back to back comparisons between a 4.8" Pivot LES Fat and my 6Fattie in extremely muddy, wet, rocky, rooty, nasty conditions. I cleared more things on the 6Fattie just because I was able to pick up the front/rear and move them where I wanted, whereas the fatbike was just a lumbering plow through/over stuff. The 6Fattie has probably about 90% of the traction of a fatbike, but it is about 1000% more maneuverable.


This is similar to my experience. In search of a Year round big tire all mountain rig (not a snowbike per se) I demoed the bucksaw and the Mutz. Both setup 26x3.8. Of the two I prefered the Mutz - more playful than the bucksaw. The Mutz was a bit of a revelation for me. After years on a rock hopper, finally a bike that would consistently hold on on those 30% plus climbs and tame less than perfect line choices. But the bike did feel a bit cumbersome, and I did wonder if it had more traction than I needed. A visit to Mojo Wheels in Lakewood CO led to a weekend demo of the 6f. What I found was that the bike had as nearly as much traction as the Mutz, but climbed better, and felt more nimble and playful. (FWIW, Mutz:13.25" BB height, 18" chain stay, 67 degree HA, 70.5 degree seat tube). Now 30-40 hours into the 6f, I am continually impressed with its hold on the ground. My AM workout (I alternate strength training days and -weather permitting-riding days, 6 days a week) specifically involves climbing intervals. The small MTB bike park near me has several short (100 yards or so) 30-35%% climbs with some technical features thrown in. I have yet to master all of them, but making week to week progress. And on the 6f I am the limiting factor and not the bike. This thing never lets go! Of course this is as much about 275+ as it is about the 6f itself. But what ever it's about, the bike is perfect for me. The other thing is This: I'll bet anyone a six pack that 275+ is going to go viral in the next few years. So the only reason I see for not getting a 6f now, is that there will be far more choices each year. But that reasoning alone can lead to a choice paralysis of sorts.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I agree on this tire size being a big deal. I can't imagine it not taking over a lot of bikes. Not sure where the boundaries are - could it be 2.8 and have the same bennies? Can't wait to see tires develop for this type of bike. I'm not totally sure it's the contact patch that makes it awesome or the squish of the tire. Haha.


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## Cody01 (Jul 23, 2014)

What have people been paying for FSR Comp's? I've gotten several prices all around to MSRP of $3,500. Is it normal to pay just about full retail?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I paid $3,200 from my LBS, but I wouldn't be surprised if pricing was closer to retail at most places, as the bike is not exactly sitting on anybody's shelf.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

5K NZD. No sign of any discount over here.
I have the only orange one in NZ. Got it bought in from Australia as Specialized NZ only imported the black/red ones.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've ridden plus bikes and they are indeed a revelation. The catch is that I squeezed 2.5 tires on my 26mm ID rims and that is like 75% as good, but faster at the same time.
I love plus bikes, but the future for AM riding is going to be around 30mm ID rims with tires in the 2.6 width range on boost. That on a V3 Bronson is going to be heaven.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Suns - it will be interesting as this all develops. I think 27-30mm rims feels right. And tires could range from 2.6-3.0. What I don't know and would have to experiment on a lot of different tires to understand is of the fun/advantage comes from width or the volume. I think it's the volume but don't have anything but regular 29 tires to compare to. 

Also I wonder if wide is different in relation to diameter. Anyway. Imagine a bike you could run tires ranging from 2.5-3.0 on. That would be a versatile bike. Could use the same wheels just swap tires.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Cody01 said:


> What have people been paying for FSR Comp's? I've gotten several prices all around to MSRP of $3,500. Is it normal to pay just about full retail?


Full boat here ($3500). THe LBS did throw in a carbon cage/bottle and discounted setting up the bike tubeless....... which I highly recommend! The comp is an awesome build for the price and for $1K more you can go carbon.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

Anyone around 5'4" and riding a size small? Really torn between a small and x small for my wife.. she is 5'4".. 

thank you!


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## Bacchus32 (Jul 24, 2011)

My lady is 5'3" and the small fits well with a 50mm stem and bars trimmed to 730mm. The x-small would definitely have made the cockpit too cramped and really wouldn't have offered any more stand over.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

Awesome Bacchus32! thank you!!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Judd, 
I'm 5'4"ish, I'm on a Small, feels good, but it's just 1 ride. Changing to a 730-740 bar (for carbon vainity), and later maybe a 50mm from the 45mm stem if needed.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

Great, thanks revver! Appreciate the feedback!!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Currently sitting at 8 inches of snow here. I will ride either today or tomorrow and let you guys know how the 6Fattie handles.

Edit: Now at about 12-15 inches and still snowing. Will update when it stops snowing.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

For those of you having trouble fitting the spare tube in the wrap it's pretty easy. Just fold the tube flat and then fold lengthwise like a taco and it will roll up in the wrap.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Currently sitting at 8 inches of snow here. I will ride either today or tomorrow and let you guys know how the 6Fattie handles.
> 
> Edit: Now at about 12-15 inches and still snowing. Will update when it stops snowing.


Finally stopped snowing! Currently sitting at about 30-35 inches of snow, and I am sick and tired of digging my driveway, lol.

I don't have a proper gauge for air pressure atm, but I would guess around 10psi front and 12psi rear. Rode over solid sheets of ice, over ice with about an inch of snow on it, ice with about a foot of snow on it, and then tried to plow my way through snow banks.

All good. Like seriously, really good. The only issue was trying to go through the snow bank: it was hard to pedal. Not impossible, just hard to pedal. I also have an incline driveway that is ice/mud/snow/slush that I kept spinning out on, but to be fair, my Land Cruiser had trouble getting up it earlier today.

So, in summary, my 6Fattie has done extremely well in dry dusty sandy terrain, in muddy terrain, at Slickrock in Moab terrain, in chunky rocky rainy mountain terrain, and now in very icy snowy terrain. I couldn't ask for a better "do it all" bike.


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## Roy75 (Oct 21, 2015)

Mud u saying?


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

I'm not a snowbike sort, but with all the snow we have had Denver 
lately it's been a case of "like it or watch endless bike porn". So I have hit some snow covered trails and roads. With conditions ranging from powder to frozen to packed snow, all I can say is that the bike handles it better than I expected.


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## mike__j (Dec 26, 2015)

I'll almost pull the trigger on expert... 
My only concern is about to BB height (rims may by replaced) 
if any of You had opportunity to ride, Evil Following, Spec Camber EVO, SC Tallboy in all of these bikes bb height is 331 or less, if yes what about the pedal strike?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Different animal with the squish tires, but suck it up. It's a great bike, and I regularly ride terrain where a low BB is a big challenge, but it's easy to adapt. As I said today, it's got all the luxuries an old man could want: plush suspension, squish tires, dropper post, slack angles. I keep riding more aggressively, because it's really hard to crash.


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## mike__j (Dec 26, 2015)

phride said:


> Different animal with the squish tires, but suck it up. It's a great bike, and I regularly ride terrain where a low BB is a big challenge, but it's easy to adapt. As Iu said today, it's got ask the luxuries an old man could want: plush suspension, squish tires, dropper post, slack angles. I keep riding more aggressively, because it's really hard to crash.


THX I think I'll do that:thumbsup:
I wonder if Stumpy can handle with Fat B Nimble 29x3.0 from Panaracer...
or 27.5x3.5 and that would be a hell of a sweet fat full


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

PS. Not to say anything against the Evil or the Camber EVO, because those are reportedly quite impressive bikes. Their low BBs do ride half an inch higher because of their lesser travel and firmer tires. I'm just thrilled to death with the 6fattie. There are places where a low BB is a challenge, but I spend most of my rides seeking out challenges, so that's no complaint, and there are so many more challenges made possible by the bike.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

So anyone of you guys tried larger width rims with bigger tires? I was thinking of something like Fat B Nimbles 3.5" on Light Bicycle's 50mm carbon rim. Any idea if that would fit in? Been riding my Blizzard for a while now with 4.8" rubber and the thought of going back to those scary 2.4" tires makes me cringe. But I want something lighter and nimbler for summer, so serioulsy considering the 6fattie, but even those 3 inchers seem a little narrow to me 

Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Haven't tried it, but there's a ton of room up front (like a half inch in all directions). A 3.5" on fat rims would be fine. There's less room in back, but you can definitely go bigger than 3.0.


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## mike__j (Dec 26, 2015)

Could You please tell me that the 32T Oval will fit without chain stay rub, according to spec the biggest dimension of the oval is 143 mm.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Just to let you know, the 3.5" Fat Be Nimbles are actually slightly smaller than the 3.0 Ground Controls. Also the tread on the 3.5" FBN is narrower than the 3.0" Ground Control, so on the 50 rim it is quite possible that you will be on the sidewall.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*oval ring*



mike__j said:


> Could You please tell me that the 32T Oval will fit without chain stay rub, according to spec the biggest dimension of the oval is 143 mm.


Mike, its the smallest dimension (diameter) needed.
Joe


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> Haven't tried it, but there's a ton of room up front (like a half inch in all directions). A 3.5" on fat rims would be fine. There's less room in back, but you can definitely go bigger than 3.0.


Phride
Not that I think its needed, but Im guessing Bontrager 27.5 x 3.8 might just make it front and back... 
Franx
As for ultimate tire size, no real experience with full fat, but had done 2 weekends riding a bike with 275x3.8 (Mutz). The 6F doesnt give up much in the way of traction, but feels much quicker.


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## mike__j (Dec 26, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Phride
> Not that I think its needed, but Im guessing Bontrager 27.5 x 3.8 might just make it front and back...
> Franx
> As for ultimate tire size, no real experience with full fat, but had done 2 weekends riding a bike with 275x3.8 (Mutz). The 6F doesnt give up much in the way of traction, but feels much quicker.


Below pictures of Hodag 3.8 currently installed on my Farley 9.8, rims are Wampa 80mm. Slightly wider than 3.8 (about 0.2mm ), do You think they will fit?


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## mike__j (Dec 26, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Mike, its the smallest dimension (diameter) needed.
> Joe


I'm sorry but why You need smallest dimension?


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Just to let you know, the 3.5" Fat Be Nimbles are actually slightly smaller than the 3.0 Ground Controls. Also the tread on the 3.5" FBN is narrower than the 3.0" Ground Control, so on the 50 rim it is quite possible that you will be on the sidewall.


Thanks for replying. Good to know. Though I saw them mounted on 50mm Nexties and they didnt seem that bad. Reports are saying that the FBN are pretty fragile and much prone to sidewall tear though. Will have to wait and see if the Hodags would fit in the stays, or maybe even the smallest 4"...


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

mike__j said:


> I'm sorry but why You need smallest dimension?


Mike, my bad I misunderstood you. I assumed the issue was avoiding the chain rubbing on chainstay - as there is already little chain to chainstay clearence with 28 up front. That is, with a smaller diamter than the 28 chain might not clear chainstay. The question then would be whether with an oval (ellipsoid) 32 chain ring, is the smaller diameter (minor axis) smaller than diameter of 28. If it is, then this could be an issue. Your question, instead, is also relevant as the 28 chain ring clears the chain stay by what looks like at least 3/4 inch , i.e. about 19 mm. If so, that gives anoth 38 mm for overall additional diamter. The 28 is about 4.5 inches= 114 mm. Plus 40 mm, gives 152, so 143 mm should make it. Obviosuly you need to do better than my rough measurements to be sure.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> ...
> As for ultimate tire size, no real experience with full fat, but had done 2 weekends riding a bike with 275x3.8 (Mutz). The 6F doesnt give up much in the way of traction, but feels much quicker.


Thanks for replying also. What kind of trails have you tried it on?


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

franx said:


> Thanks for replying also. What kind of trails have you tried it on?


I live about 3 miles from a small MTB park with single track and a variety of features including 30-35% climbs and decents with various technical features (small jumps, drops offs, lots of log and large rock roll-overs etc), and provides the backbone for my 3-4 day a week workouts (a lesson to you yougins, when you pass 50 your gonna have to pay dues if to avoid the MLB [mid-life-blob] state that befalls so many). Since getting the 6f in early november I have been riding it there regularly in conditions ranging from dry to mud to frozen mud to packed snow. Although, with recent ongoing Denver snow (enough already!) I have increasingly used the bike on snow covered pavement, as I am less interested in snow ridding per se. The takeaway from all of this is traction, tarction, traction! I run tires at about 14 psi without snow and 12-13 psi on snow. What I have found is that traction is way beyond what my 29x 2.1 rockhopper has, and very close to what the Mutz running 3.8 had. But the bike rides much lighter and more nimble than the latter and every bit as plush. Basically I was dead set on a 3.8 fatbike, but riding the 6f changed my perspective and now Im plus sized all the way! Now to be clear I would consider myself an advanced intermediate (blue square to black diamond) rider. My feeling is that the 6f is ideal for my skill level as it forgives less than expert technique, without excessively bogging me down. One other thing about this bike the deserves more attention is the geometry, which I think Spec nailed, and is a bit slacker than other choices such as Pony Rustler, Alpine plus, Sherpa etc. In this sense I see the 6f falling more squarely into the all-mountain catagory.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

Great, thanks for taking the time.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> I live about 3 miles from a small MTB park with single track and a variety of features including 30-35% climbs and decents with various technical features (small jumps, drops offs, lots of log and large rock roll-overs etc), and provides the backbone for my 3-4 day a week workouts (a lesson to you yougins, when you pass 50 your gonna have to pay dues if to avoid the MLB [mid-life-blob] state that befalls so many). Since getting the 6f in early november I have been riding it there regularly in conditions ranging from dry to mud to frozen mud to packed snow. Although, with recent ongoing Denver snow (enough already!) I have increasingly used the bike on snow covered pavement, as I am less interested in snow ridding per se. The takeaway from all of this is traction, tarction, traction! I run tires at about 14 psi without snow and 12-13 psi on snow. What I have found is that traction is way beyond what my 29x 2.1 rockhopper has, and very close to what the Mutz running 3.8 had. But the bike rides much lighter and more nimble than the latter and every bit as plush. Basically I was dead set on a 3.8 fatbike, but riding the 6f changed my perspective and now Im plus sized all the way! Now to be clear I would consider myself an advanced intermediate (blue square to black diamond) rider. My feeling is that the 6f is ideal for my skill level as it forgives less than expert technique, without excessively bogging me down. One other thing about this bike the deserves more attention is the geometry, which I think Spec nailed, and is a bit slacker than other choices such as Pony Rustler, Alpine plus, Sherpa etc. In this sense I see the 6f falling more squarely into the all-mountain catagory.


Perfect summation of a great bike.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi n Happy New Year to all,

I'm looking at trying out a wider rims, anyone have any idea where or which brand produce a 24h/28h carbon rims with around 38mm inner width so I can mount direct to e 6fattie without changing out the hubs?

Thanks.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

HOMESEARCH SITEFIND DEALER
ROVAL TRAVERSE 38 SL FATTIE 650B 148

$ 1,500.00


FEATURES

SHARE


The new age of traction, stability, and speed has arrived, and its name is the Roval Traverse 38 SL Fattie 650b wheels. They feature 148mm rear and 110mm front axle widths, but to turn them into descending machines is the 38mm internal rim width. The extra width also allows for more tire volume, which means increased suppleness in the ride quality. And not only this, but the ample width also better supports the tire, meaning that you'll experience less "burping" when riding tubeless. These wheels also include the Roval tubeless plug system, which is an easy and super lightweight solution for tubeless setups. At the front hub, you'll get a 15x110mm thru-axle (end cap options included), and at the rear, the hub features DT Swiss internals for quick engagmenet. And to top everything off, these wheels are hand-built to ensure a painstaking attention to detail. Please note that this 148 version is exclusively designed for use with bikes designed with 110x15mm front axle and 148mm rear axle standards.
Rim Type: Carbon clincher, tubeless-ready, Zero Bead Hook design
Rim Material: Carbon fiber
Rim Width: 38mm internal
Front Spoke Pattern: Radial/Three-cross (1:1)
Rear Spoke Pattern: Three-cross (1:1)
Spoke Count: 24-hole Front, 28-hole Rear
Spoke Type: DT Swiss Revolution
Nipple Type: DT Swiss Pro Lock hexagonal
Front Hub: Alloy body, 110x15mm thru-axle only—15mm end caps included
Rear Hub: CNC machined alloy body, high quality DT 350 internals and 54t quick engagement ratchet system cassette, includes SRAM XX1 11-speed freehub and 148 end caps
Bearing Type: Sealed cartridge
Assembly Method: Hand-built
Total Wheelset Weight: 1657g
CONTACT US/SUPPORT
VIEW FULL SITE PRIVACY POLICY
USA / ENGLISH HOME


----------



## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Above is from Specialized website, I just ordered mine


----------



## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

revver, Do you really want to go to that much trouble to keep the HiLo hubs? They are OK at best.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Carbon rims are $400.00 apiece + build cost and spokes, just get the new wheels and save your old wheels as spares. As said above the Hi-lo hubs are marginal and not worth the effort of rebuilding when the total cost of new wheels which are much better is close in price to rebuilding


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks for the advise, guys. Think I will save up for the Specialized SL 38 and fit a 29er rims to my current wheels then.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

You could also consider the chinese carbon rim route, either the Nextie 40mm or the Light Bicycle 50mm at 200$ each, laced to Hopes Boost hubs, around 350$ a pair. Add spokes and labour and you've something that saves you over 600$ from the Speshes. Search for threads about the Nexties and LBs.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

mtnbkr80015 said:


> Above is from Specialized website, I just ordered mine


Any idea on when they will ship for you? I have a set on order.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*Tire Pressure*

So with the excellent results running tubeless (stock wheel build) I have not checked my tire pressure for a several weeks. Not too concerned though, as with the unusually cold snowy December we have been having in Denver I have been off the trails and riding mostly to keep the cardio going -opting for snow covered pavement to keep me working hard. Two days ago I checked, and found I was down to 10PSI front and back. I left pressure that way and rode for several miles on more or less packed snow. Found traction to be excellent, no burping, overall felt good. With snow melting I should be back to my usual workout at local MTB park soon, and looking forward to more experimentation with pressure. Previously was running 14-15 PSI, wondering now about experiemnting with going lower. Wondering what other have found to be the useful lower end with the 6f stock wheel setup.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The lower end is going to depend on your riding. I found myself banging the rim a little too hard on square-edge roots and rocks when I ran 13 psi in the back. I didn't have this problem up front, but I've generally run the front tire at roughly the same pressure as the rear (+/-1 psi) . I haven't really tested the limits up front, as the 14-15 psi setting has worked really well for me. I'm 185# fully loaded on the bike. YMMV with rider weight and trail.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> The lower end is going to depend on your riding. I found myself banging the rim a little too hard on square-edge roots and rocks when I ran 13 psi in the back. I didn't have this problem up front, but I've generally run the front tire at roughly the same pressure as the rear (+/-1 psi) . I haven't really tested the limits up front, as the 14-15 psi setting has worked really well for me. I'm 185# fully loaded on the bike. YMMV with rider weight and trail.


Hmmm, and Im closer to 195 loaded up. Also run front and back the same, and also have so far found 14-15 to be fine on dry trails. Cant wait for this sonow to melt!


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Plusforever said:


> Any idea on when they will ship for you? I have a set on order.


Mine have shipped already


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

I am thinking about getting this 43mm internal carbon rims boost wheelset at asiancyclexpress.com. They are 729$

What do you think ? They seems to be a better deal over the specy traverse sl

Specialized Bicycle Components

any advice is welcome


----------



## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

tcianca said:


> I am thinking about getting this 43mm internal carbon rims boost wheelset at asiancyclexpress.com. They are 729$
> 
> What do you think ? They seems to be a better deal over the specy traverse sl
> 
> ...


Is this a serious question? That wheelset has "customer reviews" as far back as January 2015 for the Boost wheeset! Would you actually trust this company? False reviews.

And this crap experience here?

http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-29/experience-ace-asian-cycle-express-989163.html

Um, I'll pass.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

I have the stock standard wheel set on my 6fat.
They seem really good.


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## cragnshag (Aug 4, 2015)

I bought a 6fatty expert medium in November. I've gone on about 6 rides, maybe a bit over 100 miles of dirt. So far I'm very happy with the bike and how it performs. This bike is replacing a 2006 carbon Stumpjumper FS that was upgraded with modern brakes, 2x10, and a seat dropper, but still ran 2.0 tires. 

Some random notes:

I've PR'd all the downhills segments first try, but I can feel that the bike is not as fast on the ups as the 2006 with the skinny tires. More fun than the old bike for sure!

I broke 2 spokes on the front wheel on moderate terrain (on the same ride) which is a little concerning since I'm 147 lbs soaking wet and have never broken a front spoke without first being hit by a car. Guy at the shop says the stock Roval spokes are too skinny. Shop replaced them with next size thicker because that's what they had in the back. I'm hoping the spoke issue is a one-time deal, else I'm going to ask the shop for a full spoke swap for the thicker size.

Water bottle cage on the swat door loosened up and needed to be tightened down mid-ride. Could use some lock-tite on the threads.... SWAT container is great place to shove snacks and a pump and thin tube. 

I'm thinking of swapping out the stock bottle cage which is a right-handed pull to one where I can pull from either side. And then put the stock cage underneath the bottom tube. This will require me to drill 2 holes and use custom bent fender washers to distribute the load. I'm not down with bikes that only come with one cage. I don't like carrying a pack when I ride so I have to get everything on the bike. In the summer I'll add a third bottle cage to the headset bolt (king cage). Anyone else here add a bottom tube cage?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

hey everyone... i have posted a bunch of info regarding the new Roval Traverse Carbon 38 SL 650+ 148's here:

New Roval Carbon 650B 38mm internal width Boost wheelset - Page 2- Mtbr.com

thanks.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> hey everyone... i have posted a bunch of info regarding the new Roval Traverse Carbon 38 SL 650+ 148's here:
> 
> New Roval Carbon 650B 38mm internal width Boost wheelset - Page 2- Mtbr.com
> 
> thanks.


All the info but how they ride. 

(Thanks, again.)


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ha, words suck I know. Too wet around here for a ride report but I will be sure to update.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Darkhorse, thks for the data. So I'm seeing it's a wider n stiffer yet lighter wheel sets compared to the original ones I'm having on my expert model, very nice! Would like to read more on how the plugs hold up instead of the tapes. Looking forward to your review. Thks again.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Specialized spoke hole plugs vs. rim tape*

I've had the plastic spoke hole plugs in the 29mm ID rims on my Camber 29er for about 6 months without any problems. They save ~35g on each rim compared to the OEM tape.

One thing to be aware of - removing the tape decreases the ERD slightly both on the shelf and in the central groove. This can affect how well the tire sits in the center channel and can affect how easy it is to get the tire to seal during mounting. It will also affect how tightly the bead seats on the shelf since there is no tape beneath it. I haven't had any problems with Specialized Ground Control or Purgatory tires.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Anyone finding this bike for $3000. I got a LBS down to $3200 for the aluminum comp

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I got it for $3,200, too. That's a great price.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Mine was briefly used comp demo model, they did 2900. No evidence of sig wear and tear...


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

*Just a few pics*

From Slickrock in Moab









From Farragut Park in Coeur D'Alene









The only problem I had after a muddy ride was washing it off.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*Carbon*

Entirely happy with the Comp, but remain curious about how a carbon frame feels on the 6F. In years past, on a hrad tail, definite difference in feel between alloy and carbon, curious how on the 6F this manifests. Anyone ridden both?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Entirely happy with the Comp, but remain curious about how a carbon frame feels on the 6F. In years past, on a hrad tail, definite difference in feel between alloy and carbon, curious how on the 6F this manifests. Anyone ridden both?


When I started looking, my budget was $2500. I took the fattie out just because they let me. When I came back from the ride I guess the look on my face told the wife all she needed to know. I then test rode the Carbon but considering the identical build, it didn't wow me enough to scrape for an extra $k. Im am also a clydesdale (230) so weight (of the bike) is not currently a primary issue. I also live in a concentrated mtb area and had many discussions about carbon vs aluminum which took a bit of the "must have" away from the carbon. I generally enjoy a healthy lust for the "best" but I can say, with a couple upgrades here and there, I have absolutely no issues with the Comp and knowing myself, when I go carbon, it will have to be S-Works all the way so I actually saved $5K going with the Comp!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crazyoldfool said:


> When I started looking, my budget was $2500. I took the fattie out just because they let me. When I came back from the ride I guess the look on my face told the wife all she needed to know. I then test rode the Carbon but considering the identical build, it didn't wow me enough to scrape for an extra $k. Im am also a clydesdale (230) so weight (of the bike) is not currently a primary issue. I also live in a concentrated mtb area and had many discussions about carbon vs aluminum which took a bit of the "must have" away from the carbon. I generally enjoy a healthy lust for the "best" but I can say, with a couple upgrades here and there, I have absolutely no issues with the Comp and knowing myself, when I go carbon, it will have to be S-Works all the way so I actually saved $5K going with the Comp!


I agree with this. Buy the bike that feels good to you and makes you want to ride. If carbon gives you that "wow" factor or you ride hard enough to be able to feel a difference then get it. Where you can really make an investment that gets you both a seat of the pants wow and a better performance feel is carbon wheels. Carbon wheels provide a noticeable ride improvement in terms of stiffness and "snappier" acceleration.

If you buy a nice set of carbon hoops with convertible hubs, they'll be an investment that follows you to future builds as well.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree with this. Buy the bike that feels good to you and makes you want to ride. If carbon gives you that "wow" factor or you ride hard enough to be able to feel a difference then get it. Where you can really make an investment that gets you both a seat of the pants wow and a better performance feel is carbon wheels. Carbon wheels provide a noticeable ride improvement in terms of stiffness and "snappier" acceleration.
> 
> If you buy a nice set of carbon hoops with convertible hubs, they'll be an investment that follows you to future builds as well.


Aha! That seems to be the common thread I hear over and over about the rims. I went with some carbon Renthal bars first because it was an easy sell under the radar($) but rims are definitely on the upgrade list for the Comp!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree with this. Buy the bike that feels good to you and makes you want to ride. If carbon gives you that "wow" factor or you ride hard enough to be able to feel a difference then get it. Where you can really make an investment that gets you both a seat of the pants wow and a better performance feel is carbon wheels. Carbon wheels provide a noticeable ride improvement in terms of stiffness and "snappier" acceleration.


How do you know? It seems you haven't ridden your new wheels yet.

j/k, I agree in principal, and that was my original plan when I bought the Comp, but I'm waiting on your report and others before U consider committing to that plan. When you're only saving a half pound in your upgrade, and the stiffness is muted by squishy tires, that principal may not apply so clearly.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree with this. Buy the bike that feels good to you and makes you want to ride. If carbon gives you that "wow" factor or you ride hard enough to be able to feel a difference then get it. Where you can really make an investment that gets you both a seat of the pants wow and a better performance feel is carbon wheels. Carbon wheels provide a noticeable ride improvement in terms of stiffness and "snappier" acceleration.
> 
> If you buy a nice set of carbon hoops with convertible hubs, they'll be an investment that follows you to future builds as well.


Generally I'd agree with you. Not in this case. Convertible hubs won't go between boost and non-boost.

I built a nice set of carbon 45mm internal rims on X0 hubs. They are better than the stock comp wheels. But barely noticeable. The width was a little better and the 52 point engagement was nice, but I couldn't tell any substantial difference in weight/snap, or stiffness (surprisingly!). The big tires mute a lot of that feeling. Wheel upgrades on other platforms have been immediately appreciated.

A tire upgrade to dirt wizards was the biggest improvement for the bike. Finally got that grip that I was promised.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

phride said:


> How do you know? It seems you haven't ridden your new wheels yet.
> 
> j/k, I agree in principal, and that was my original plan when I bought the Comp, but I'm waiting on your report and others before U consider committing to that plan. When you're only saving a half pound in your upgrade, and the stiffness is muted by squishy tires, that principal may not apply so clearly.


Totally stoked on the comp, but not without upgrade lust (always part of the fun!)
However, the tire size is such a new variable for me that Im definitely in watchful waiting mode to see how others fare. In the meantime still waiting for trails to dry up a bit as I suffer through indoor cardio!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hey all,
Final build is done... well, nothing's ever final but it's good for now.

28lb 10oz with no SWAT or pedals. 30lb 10oz with SWAT (tube, tool, CO2, fireball) and XT trail pedals.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Anyone have any issue with wobble in the cassett? Chain wear? Ive been told mine is withing tollerance but at this rate, Im sure Ill be in that market for a new chain soon. Shifting is great with no ghost shifts or misses. No noise other than from the chain.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

That's a real shame. Good luck with the sale.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

*Brake rotor upgrade for smalls?*

Hey all,

My small s-works 6fattie came with 160/180 rotors. I'm wanting to go 180/203. Anyone else do this for their smalls? Not sure why smalls got smaller rotor hardware. I'm assuming I can use the front ISO/180 spacer and hardware on the rear an I'll just need a new rotor and spacer for the front/

For those with the 180/203 setup from the factory, can you confirm the spacer used front and rear? From looking at shapes in pictures, it looks like a SM-MA-F203 P/P, but I can't see the writing clearly. would appreciate a confirmation.

I'm looking for more power on long descents but hoping the XTRs are not too grabby on the 203 front. We'll see...


----------



## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

MisterClean said:


> Hey all,
> 
> My small s-works 6fattie came with 160/180 rotors. I'm wanting to go 180/203. Anyone else do this for their smalls? Not sure why smalls got smaller rotor hardware. I'm assuming I can use the front ISO/180 spacer and hardware on the rear an I'll just need a new rotor and spacer for the front/
> 
> ...


I would check the fork rotor limits. I believe the 34s are 180mm, but I could be wrong. I did a quick check on Fox's website, but couldn't find it. If it is in fact 180, I'd avoid the 203mm. A) I think it would void the warranty, and B) The forks (more importantly their bushings) are designed around tolerances relative to 180mm. The engineers in the room can chime in for sure, but that's what I understand. You're better bet might be different pad choice, or go with a rotor that dissipates heat better than the stock one.


----------



## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

bigmike9699 said:


> I would check the fork rotor limits... You're better bet might be different pad choice, or go with a rotor that dissipates heat better than the stock one.


I figured since the medium and large frames come with 203's on the front, I should be ok. My old bike is a 2007 Enduro SL with Magura Marta SL brakes with storm rotors in 180/203. those has awesome stopping power regardless of the descent (with proper bleeding) and I never heard a peep out of those - no fading either. These XTRs squeal and howl. I spent an afternoon bleeding them over and over. They feel a little better now, but still squeal here and there. May not have enough miles on them.

I figured larger rotors may help some fading on long descents.

on another note, if I brake in rapd succession - on off on... the engagement point of the lever moves out which is not cool. I need them to be consistent.

weird that none of the demo bikes I tested has these issues with the same XTR brakes. Wonder if it's the metallic pads that came stock? I always ran organic on the Maguras. I don't mind replacing them more often. The last XTR discs I had from the dual-control days (2004) squealed on every ride until I replaced them with Galfer pads.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey all,
> Final build is done... well, nothing's ever final but it's good for now.
> 
> 28lb 10oz with no SWAT or pedals. 30lb 10oz with SWAT (tube, tool, CO2, fireball) and XT trail pedals.


Nice looking bike !
I am interested in buying an oval red chainring like yours, what exact model did you get?

Bye


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## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

MisterClean said:


> I figured since the medium and large frames come with 203's on the front, I should be ok. My old bike is a 2007 Enduro SL with Magura Marta SL brakes with storm rotors in 180/203. those has awesome stopping power regardless of the descent (with proper bleeding) and I never heard a peep out of those - no fading either. These XTRs squeal and howl. I spent an afternoon bleeding them over and over. They feel a little better now, but still squeal here and there. May not have enough miles on them.
> 
> I figured larger rotors may help some fading on long descents.
> 
> ...


I stand corrected! Thanks! That's good news that the larger models come with 203s as I just ordered a large Comp Carbon, and am happy to hear it will come with 203s. I agree that the extra modulation and control a 203 gives you is worth the weight penalty, especially if you are doing longer, sustained and technical descents, and especially with the larger rotational mass of bigger wheels and/or tires. I always ride 203/180 on my 29ers, even on the trail bikes I've had. Maybe it's placebo, but I definitely notice improve braking performance.

With regards to your brake pull changes... I hear this is a bit of an issue with the new gen shimano brakes. I had some SLXs a couple years ago, and XTs last year, and noticed similar things. I usually ride Avids (i know, i know!), and while they aren't flawless, they are consistent haha...


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> Nice looking bike !
> I am interested in buying an oval red chainring like yours, what exact model did you get?
> 
> Bye


Thanks for the kudos. It looks like AbsoluteBlack recently updated their website and now call it the SRAM Oval Boost 148 traction ring. It is for GXP and Long BB30 spindles. Really is a great ring!


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## Klurejr (Oct 13, 2006)

pCp 450 said:


> I apologize if it's against the rules to promote an ad to my for sale page on PB.


It is against the Forums Guidlines:

Mtbr Posting Guidelines

Please post an ad in the Classifieds section of this site:

Main Index - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

MisterClean.
I would try different pads before I went to the bother of 203s. I assume they don't put them on the small because they expect the total all up weight of rider and bike to be under a certain figure on a small.
A bit off topic here, but how did you like dual control?
I loved mine. It was a shame the bike press bagged it and made it go away.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

My medium comp came with 180/160mm rotors and resin finned pads. The rear pads were almost down to the backing after 400 miles and the lever bite point got all wonky. Fresh sintered pads were much better and fixed the inconsistent bite point.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

majr said:


> My medium comp came with 180/160mm rotors and resin finned pads. The rear pads were almost down to the backing after 400 miles and the lever bite point got all wonky. Fresh sintered pads were much better and fixed the inconsistent bite point.


interesting. My bike has barely 100 miles and came with the metallic pads. Maybe just the large and X-large come with 180/203. No matter, the 203 rotor and spacer showed up today.

Of course it's been pouring rain lately.... I'll mount this rotor up and bed it in.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Roy75 said:


> Mud u saying?


I ruined a 2013 Stumpy Expert 29er that way, mud sanded through the carbon seatstays and cracked

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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

another not-so-stellar review:

Specialized 6Fattie FSR Comp Carbon - Dual Tester Review


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

brenick said:


> MisterClean.
> ... A bit off topic here, but how did you like dual control?
> I loved mine. It was a shame the bike press bagged it and made it go away.


I actually loved the dual controls. I loved having the ability of changing gears to climb a wall whilst simultaneously scrubbing speed off the preceding descent. Others had problems with inadvertently changing gears while braking. I never had a problem with that.

The bike press may do the same with these plus bikes. Consensus seems to be "Meh..."

I'm not sure why folks get so hung up on certain equipment. But that's the premise behind this whole site . I'll use whatever's there (Within quality limits), get a feel for it, learn it's advantages and disadvantages, and never look back. yeah, this coming from the guy who is upsizing rotors already.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

MisterClean said:


> another not-so-stellar review:
> 
> Specialized 6Fattie FSR Comp Carbon - Dual Tester Review


Interesting views. These guys must just ride more aggressively than I do. Or they are defending their 29ers like we used to defend our 26ers. I do think that 27.5+ is the future.

I used to ride Kenda Karma 26 1.95 DTC's to help reduce rotating weight for climbing but once I lost 30 lbs, I found I liked more traction better the light weight. From then on, I was always after tires on the larger side of the spectrum. As my fitness improved over the years, I'm more than willing to trade weight for better braking and more traction. Anyone remember when the Purgatory was available in a 2.4? That thing was a revelation on the front. I still ran it at full pressure (32 PSI). tried t mount it tin the rear too, but not enough clearance on my 2004 enduro.

I've been riding Enduros since forever ago.... 2000, 2004, 2007, but most recently the enduro seems too long-legged to ride up steep Hills so I chose to move over to the stumpy camp.

I'm also 5'5", 150lbs and learned to ride on a fully rigid bike with center-pull cantilever brakes. I ride loosely, smoothly with finesse and body English and as a result, am relatively easy on my equipment while riding aggressively over chunder. This is probably why the 3.0 tires work for me.

I find the bike quite nimble and popable. To feel the nimbleness, you have to lean the bike and use body English. If you lean the bike on the outsides of the tired, the effective diameter is reduced and the bike hunkers down and carves! Also, I get much more pop from this bike than from my 2007 enduro. But the chain stays on this bike are an inch longer than the stays on the enduro. however, front-center on this bike is 2.5" shorter than my 2007 enduro!!!

Not sure why everyone thinks short chain stays are the secret sauce for popability and nimbleness. There's so much more to it. The chain stays on the 2007 enduro were really very short but no one ever mentioned it. It wasn't a popular trait. Now it's a marketing hype thing. Even Specialized now talks about how ridiculously short the chain stays on the 6fattie are, but compared to what? They are an inch longer than my old enduro, yet the 6fattie is much more playful.

I think 27.5+ bikes are great for smaller riders. 29" bikes felt too large for me. YMMV

OK, time to go put on those bigger rotors and increase my rotational weight by at least 60 grams (Gasp!).


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> Interesting views. These guys must just ride more aggressively than I do. Or they are defending their 29ers like we used to defend our 26ers. I do think that 27.5+ is the future.
> 
> I used to ride Kenda Karma 26 1.95 DTC's to help reduce rotating weight for climbing but once I lost 30 lbs, I found I liked more traction better the light weight. From then on, I was always after tires on the larger side of the spectrum. As my fitness improved over the years, I'm more than willing to trade weight for better braking and more traction. Anyone remember when the Purgatory was available in a 2.4? That thing was a revelation on the front. I still ran it at full pressure (32 PSI). tried t mount it tin the rear too, but not enough clearance on my 2004 enduro.
> 
> ...


All good points. The thing with the linked review though is that it is more a personal take on plus size than a thorough review of the 6f. This is fine, but then change the title to "275 plus-a dual-tester-review". Instead, a review of the 6f qua 275 plus should - as in your comments above - have a lot more to say (and not just about the cute SWAT door). I also find such hyperbole as "KY jelly on a water bed" useless, I'd hate to see what the second reviewer would say about a Foes Mutz! I look forward to a year or so down the road when reviewers have gotten over the (inevitable) reality of plus size, and actually start evaluating the particular executions of various bikes in this class.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> I actually loved the dual controls. I loved having the ability of changing gears to climb a wall whilst simultaneously scrubbing speed off the preceding descent.* Others had problems with inadvertently changing gears while braking*. I never had a problem with that.
> 
> The bike press may do the same with these plus bikes. Consensus seems to be "Meh..."
> 
> I'm not sure why folks get so hung up on certain equipment. But that's the premise behind this whole site . I'll use whatever's there (Within quality limits), get a feel for it, learn it's advantages and disadvantages, and never look back. yeah, this coming from the guy who is upsizing rotors already.


I'm not even sure this is true. I think the consensus from the press was that people MIGHT accidental change gears while braking. I did about 3000km with them and never once had it happen.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

Jpcannavo said:


> All good points. The thing with the linked review though is that it is more a personal take on plus size than a thorough review of the 6f. This is fine, but then change the title to "275 plus-a dual-tester-review". Instead, a review of the 6f qua 275 plus should - as in your comments above - have a lot more to say (and not just about the cute SWAT door). I also find such hyperbole as "KY jelly on a water bed" useless, I'd hate to see what the second reviewer would say about a Foes Mutz! I look forward to a year or so down the road when reviewers have gotten over the (inevitable) reality of plus size, and actually start evaluating the particular executions of various bikes in this class.


Sounds like that second guy had complaints about the tires more than anything.

I don't much care how fast he may be, when you take a massive tire like these, and go from 12 psi to 22 psi, that's ridiculous. Then, back down to 15 psi. 1 psi is a huge change in pressure on these things.

Considering most of his complaints were that the sidewalls were soft, add ONE psi and try it out. My dad has a 650+ Stumpy, and the first ride, I started his tires at 18, he said it was way too harsh. We kept taking air pressure out during the ride (no gauge) and after we got home, I checked the pressure, and it was something like 12. After many more rides, we found 11 psi worked for him. 10 psi was too low, and he complained of the tire feeling too wallery. I think Specialized shows a MAXIMUM pressure of 20 for riding on those tires anyway, and that guy was trying them at 22? Sheesh!


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

I have ridden around 35 hours on my 6fattie comp in the last 7 weeks and up until today have not had an accurate low pressure gauge to check pressures. I have been doing it by feel and after some experimentation found what felt right for my riding and my trails.
My 0-30psi Accu-Gage arrived from the States today and when I checked my pressures I found I had 9.5psi front and 10psi rear!!! Much less than I thought I would be running.
I immediately thought "it might be the gauge" but checked my Fat Boy (which I had measured accurately at 4psi with a 0-15psi gauge) and it was bang on 4psi.
I am a light weight (150lbs all up) and do ride my bike "light", but these pressures did surprise me.
I guess what I am getting at here is it definitely pays to experiment and not just go on what others may recommend. I don't think I would ever have tried to go that low if I had been able to measure the pressure initially.
As a side note, I have just started to get sealant (Stans) coming through the sidewall of both tires. Much worse on the GC than the Purgatory.


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## DethWshBkr (Nov 25, 2010)

brenick said:


> As a side note, I have just started to get sealant (Stans) coming through the sidewall of both tires. Much worse on the GC than the Purgatory.


My dad's tires (both front and rear) did that horribly. He actually had a puncture, and it went flat, would not seal. I put 3 scoops of Stans in when I converted it to tubeless before his first ride. He also put another 2-3 scoops in now two weeks later just to add more.

Well, riding in early December, (bike was purchased Oct 16th) he had a flat. The sealant liquid (5-6 scoops per tire!) was gone. BONE dry.

He called Specialized, and they sent him two brand new tires. Apparently they told him the sidewall bleeding was a defect in the latex they used to seal them.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Ground Control tire sealing*

The Ground Control and Purgatory tires on my Fuse and Mrs levity's Stumpy 6fattie have held up surprisingly well. We use less than 2 scoops of Stans sealant and haven't had any flats.

On a ride in the desert Mrs levity ran over a piece of Cholla cactus that stuck in the front tire and only flew off when it hit the fork brace. We pulled about a dozen thorns out, but she had no leaks.

After the ride I noticed something in my rear wheel. It turned out to be a 3/4" long Ocotillo cactus thorn. When I pulled it out sealant squirted out the hole, but I was able to get it to seal by holding my finger over it. Tire pressure was fine, ~12 psi that we were using for the sandy conditions, so it must have sealed pretty well around the thorn.










We carry 2 spare tubes when riding in the desert, but haven't had use them yet!


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Nice photo. Glad we don't have those nasty looking things over here.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Just got a call from my LBS.
Specialized NZ have replaced both my tires because of the sealant leakage from the sidewalls.
Top marks guys.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Twice now my comp fattie has cracked/broken the rear derailleur housing where it comes around the bottom bracket. I noticed this time that it is starting to dig into the aluminum around the BB and into its cover/bracket/thing where it exits the down tube.

Anyone else seeing this?


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## Erock503 (Oct 20, 2014)

majr said:


> Twice now my comp fattie has cracked/broken the rear derailleur housing where it comes around the bottom bracket. I noticed this time that it is starting to dig into the aluminum around the BB and into its cover/bracket/thing where it exits the down tube.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this?


I've seen something similar to this if I'm picturing it right. The older design, 2012-2015, you had to make sure there was a lot of slack for the cable under the bb, or it would contact the bb every time the suspension would flex, and eventually it would cut right through the aluminum housing of the frame. I saw this on several bikes. I'm not sure if yours is related though, can you post a pic?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Erock503 said:


> I've seen something similar to this if I'm picturing it right. The older design, 2012-2015, you had to make sure there was a lot of slack for the cable under the bb, or it would contact the bb every time the suspension would flex, and eventually it would cut right through the aluminum housing of the frame. I saw this on several bikes. I'm not sure if yours is related though, can you post a pic?


Sounds like what is happening. You definitely need enough cable under the BB so when the suspension cycles you're not cutting into the BB shell with the cable.


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

*Budda*


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Do you know if it is possible to mount a rock shox monarch debonair or another shox with piggy back on this bike?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> Do you know if it is possible to mount a rock shox monarch debonair or another shox with piggy back on this bike?


Yes, according to the Masterlink FAQ on Specialized's website both the Monarch PLUS and Monarch will be available. (post on Sepsh is not mine btw, just found it)


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> Yes, according to the Masterlink FAQ on Specialized's website both the Monarch PLUS and Monarch will be available. (post on Sepsh is not mine btw, just found it)


this one?
https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Rear-Shock-Monarch-RT3-AutoSag-for-Specialized-2016


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> this one?
> https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Rear-Shock-Monarch-RT3-AutoSag-for-Specialized-2016


I assume yes, but please don't rely on my confirmation if you are going to purchase.

That is the standard Monarch though, not the PLUS. The PLUS has the piggy back air canister you asked about originally.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Check out the lets get fat video on the pinkbike home page. Two s-works 6fatties bombing through the woods. Really makes me want to ride. Damn snow


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Finally got to ride my 6 Fattie comp again yesterday after dealing with some injuries. sweet bike. Even on the non technical trails I rode yesterday!!


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

*Quick spin*





Quick morning spin. Typical of the trails I ride the 6fattie on.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

^^^
Nice looking trails
Got to get over there, before I am too old. How has the summer been?
Hot over here, however we had a nice respite and hit the tracks four times in a week
Back into the 40's coming up, so out with the surfboard again


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

brenick said:


> Quick morning spin. Typical of the trails I ride the 6fattie on.


Nice. What video editing software do you use?


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Twimby said:


> ^^^
> Nice looking trails
> Got to get over there, before I am too old. How has the summer been?
> Hot over here, however we had a nice respite and hit the tracks four times in a week
> Back into the 40's coming up, so out with the surfboard again


Thanks.
Summer has been hot (high 20s for Taupo) so the lake has been getting a bit of a thrashing.
I see you ride a Fatboy. I have a Fatboy comp. Between that and the 6fattie, I have this region pretty well covered.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Nice. What video editing software do you use?


Thanks.
I used Movie Maker. Only my second video so still learning the quickest way to do things.
Like most new things, it can be a bit frustrating figuring out how to do stuff.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

posted on another thread... https://dirtmountainbike.com/bike-r...orks-stumpjumper-fsr.html#8xoBkV4clT7J2EVQ.97

check out the last article... some feedback on the 6fattie... Consider the source - Big-S marketing guy, but I can confirm his feedback. This thing's just fast!


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## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

The tires haven't touched dirt yet (in case you can't tell from the background), but man I can't wait to open this thing up. It's some of the most fun I've had on a bike in years... plus, the traction it still has in snow is incredible. Mind you, I'm only riding it on packed in hiking/snow shoeing trails, but I'm still able to do many of my "xc" loops on it.... damn, cant wait to ride some real trail with it.


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> Yes, according to the Masterlink FAQ on Specialized's website both the Monarch PLUS and Monarch will be available. (post on Sepsh is not mine btw, just found it)


Hey any of you guys who own a 6fattie and dont want the Fox DPS and is looking to upgrade to the monarch rc3 let me know, I want a DPS for my Stumpy but they equiped them with the FOX CTD. I would be interested in a trade plus cash til the Monarchs come out. LMK...Im only interested in the Fox Factory DPS...I contacted a few spech dealers and there not even showing up in there computers yet.


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## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

Check out the vorsprung corset. It will satisfy all your concerns with shock performance.
Vorsprung Corset Air Sleeve ? Vorsprung Suspension


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

Does anyone have a set of stock wheels that they are looking to sell ?
thought maybe someone upgraded or want to sell and then upgrade.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

LFJ said:


> Does anyone have a set of stock wheels that they are looking to sell ?
> thought maybe someone upgraded or want to sell and then upgrade.


Are you looking for a stock set with 29i Roval hoops that came on the Stumpy or Scrapers that came on the Fuse? I saw you post in both threads and the stock wheels are not the same on those 2 bikes. Anyways, I have a set of the stock Stumpy wheels if you are interested. Only about 10 miles on them.


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

either one. check your PM's


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

found a set...i appreciate all the responses.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Headed-out to Lynn Woods on Saturday, where I put the tires through their paces, demanding traction in improbable places, and it was a mixed bag. Overall, the plus tires provided traction where it wouldn't have been available on a firmer, skinnier tire, allowing me to climb stuff where some of the Lynn regulars I accompanied were losing traction. That said, traction was not great on really steep sidehill traverses. I'm not sure the extent to which this was tire roll due to the narrow rims and thin sidewalls and how much was due to the Purgatory Control tire rubber not behaving ideally when the corner knobs got somewhat mudded-up. I'm inclined to believe a little of each, but the traction was good enough in the . I won't encounter similar terrain too often, this isn't a huge an issue, but it was a noticeable limitation. I'll probably be getting some new 27.5 wheels built up with wider rims, better hubs, and stouter rubber when it is available, even if there is a weight penalty. 

Otherwise, I was quite happy with the performance of the 6Fattie on the most testing terrain that I ride. The low BB wasn't a big issue, as I've long-since adapted to ratcheting where clearance might be an issue. I found that I had more clearance than I felt on trialsy up-and-overs, and it was the smaller stuff, where pedal strikes needed to be finessed or powered through. If there were more square edges to navigate at the top of obstacles or longer hills with smaller rock steps, the low BB would probably be more of a problem, but it wasn't anywhere near as bad as I feared when deciding on my purchase. 

The suspension and geometry and plus tires were a treat on the technical downs with the bike being capable of rolling over anything I was brave enough to ride. (I'll find the limits eventually, as I get more comfortable on the slack, plush bike.) The front suspension even saved me once when I came in too tentative to a drop and cased the landing putting my front wheel directly onto the square edge of a small rock. 

I've got a ways to go to get the right balance to readily manual the bike. I struggled lifting the front wheel on descents that came quickly after hammering-up a steep climb. If I were on more familiar terrain, I would probably be able to upshift quickly and wheelie drop, but I'll need to develop more skill to manual the front wheel up with a timely weight shift. The days of the near-afterthought upward flick of the front wheel is a thing of the past on the longish wheelbase. (Notanewsflash: a 27.5+ is a 29er frame, not a 27.5.) No matter, it should be fun to work on when out riding with the kids. There's nothing like watching Dad go over backwards to mortify my son and entertain my daughter. 

While the longer wheelbase was a challenge for me in that way, one area that I was exceptionally pleased was how readily I could switchback on the bike. The traction is so good that there were several times where I reached the end of a line, paused, and turned the wheel almost 90 degrees left or right, and could readily ride on. This bike is super capable simply fun to ride for me. I doubt that it's minor short comings will be holding me back in any significant way, but YMMV.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

phride said:


> ...and stouter rubber when it is available, even if there is a weight penalty.


Surly Dirt Wizards. Grip is incomparably better than the other tires I've tried (Purg, GC, Bridger)


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

majr said:


> Surly Dirt Wizards. Grip is incomparably better than the other tires I've tried (Purg, GC, Bridger)


Just catching up on the posts here... Im having Stans fluid seep through the sidewalls on my Purg and Ground Control. LBS tech uses Dirt Wizards on his 50mm Fatbike . Anyone used them on the 29mm fattie? Spesh is warrantying them for replacement or retail value against a different brand. Im the only Plus bike around here so nobody local to ask. Thanks all!!


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

crazyoldfool said:


> Just catching up on the posts here... Im having Stans fluid seep through the sidewalls on my Purg and Ground Control. LBS tech uses Dirt Wizards on his 50mm Fatbike . Anyone used them on the 29mm fattie? Spesh is warrantying them for replacement or retail value against a different brand. Im the only Plus bike around here so nobody local to ask. Thanks all!!


Thats normal for tires to do that, just let the sealent do its job


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

sml-2727 said:


> Thats normal for tires to do that, just let the sealent do its job


Yes and no. Just a note, it seems that Spesh did have a defect on some of the GC and Purg tires they spec'd.

reference: posts #702, #703 and #706 in this thread.

For what it's worth, I have the GC and Purg on my 6fattie and really like them. Might be worth a shot to give them a second chance rather than taking the credit towards another brand.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Yes and no. Just a note, it seems that Spesh did have a defect on some of the GC and Purg tires they spec'd.
> 
> reference: posts #702, #703 and #706 in this thread.
> 
> For what it's worth, I have the GC and Purg on my 6fattie and really like them. Might be worth a shot to give them a second chance rather than taking the credit towards another brand.


I saw those and Thanks! I agree also. The tire has been great. They did say I can expect some bleed through but this is excessive...looks like fiber threads showing on a bald tire! LOL! I am actually going to go with Purg front and back and stick with the Spesh....for now. At least until I change rims way way later down the road! I appreciate the input All!!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

After 3 months my GC started bleeding through. It is not like normal bleeding that the stan's seals up. Just keeps bleeding through the fibers and will not seal. It is weird also that I had zero bleeding for 3 months and then all of the sudden the bleeding started. I have pictures for Spesh but have not tried to get a replacement yet. Love the GC though and it does seem to hold air great.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> After 3 months my GC started bleeding through. It is not like normal bleeding that the stan's seals up. Just keeps bleeding through the fibers and will not seal. It is weird also that I had zero bleeding for 3 months and then all of the sudden the bleeding started. I have pictures for Spesh but have not tried to get a replacement yet. Love the GC though and it does seem to hold air great.


THats exactly my experience! Got the bike 11/13 and just started seeping last weekend. I can wash it and go ride. When I get back I have a pattern of diagonal lines on both sides that resembles what an old badly worn tire looks like. It will seep for an hour or so then stops. Has not affected tire pressure yet.... not sure if it will but Im stoked that Spesh is backing it up! I can add that the skill curve is explosive on this bike and increased speed, harder turns and flirting with very low tire pressures could probably have some effect.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

So earlier in this thread there was mention of the chain hitting the chainstay when in the smallest cog on the cassette. Has this proved to be a problem for anyone?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> After 3 months my GC started bleeding through. It is not like normal bleeding that the stan's seals up. Just keeps bleeding through the fibers and will not seal. It is weird also that I had zero bleeding for 3 months and then all of the sudden the bleeding started. I have pictures for Spesh but have not tried to get a replacement yet. Love the GC though and it does seem to hold air great.


Like you and that crazyoldfool, I started seeing the same thing after a couple months, but I haven't noticed any change in tire pressure or really any appreciable buildup of fluid outside the tire, even when it sat for a couple weeks while the weather was more conducive to skiing than riding, so I'm not paying it much mind.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

phride said:


> Like you and that crazyoldfool, I started seeing the same thing after a couple months, but I haven't noticed any change in tire pressure or really any appreciable buildup of fluid outside the tire, even when it sat for a couple weeks while the weather was more conducive to skiing than riding, so I'm not paying it much mind.


Thats what Im hearing more and more. The LBS said the same and my pressure is holding fine but...... Spesh is sending a new set and going with Purgs front and back this time.... including the tubeless set up. Bonus!! But I agree that Im not so sure it is a critical issue at this point though it certainly freaked me out in the beginning and im very glad to see how well the manufacturer stepped up with an issue..


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

prj71 said:


> So earlier in this thread there was mention of the chain hitting the chainstay when in the smallest cog on the cassette. Has this proved to be a problem for anyone?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


No problems here...................


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

prj71 said:


> So earlier in this thread there was mention of the chain hitting the chainstay when in the smallest cog on the cassette. Has this proved to be a problem for anyone?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


If there is any problem it will hit the thick rubber protector. I am running a 26 from chainring and just cut down the rubber a little where it rubbed. No big deal at all. Now no rubbing with the 26.

Have Fun Jill


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*29er form*

Here's my better version of the Santa Cruz Hightower... the 6fattie 29er!

Love this new iteration and really provides a 2 for 1.

*Build*:
Kappius KR-29-XCW rims (40mm ID) with Kappius KH-1.5 hubs and Maxxis Ardent 29x2.4 DC EXO TR tires.

Next round is stuffing 29x3.0's on it... 3 for 1? ha.


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

That bike looks really good with the ardents. Were the 2.4's difficulty to mount tubeless on 40 ID rims? I know the Fox fork will accept 29x3.0 but would be surprised if 29x3.0 would fit on the rear. Let us know.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

LFJ said:


> That bike looks really good with the ardents. Were the 2.4's difficulty to mount tubeless on 40 ID rims? I know the Fox fork will accept 29x3.0 but would be surprised if 29x3.0 would fit on the rear. Let us know.


Thanks for the props! The Ardents measure 2.39in at the outer knobs and 2.55in at the casing. They mounted up super easy. Not sure if that's because of the Kappius offset rim design or if Maxxis tires are just that nice but I installed them with no tools and a simple floor pump. The center channel of the Kappius rim is offset making it easier to keep the opposite tire bead closer to the rim leaving more tire material to play with and stretch.

Yes the Fox fork fits the 3.0" and yes the rear is super tight. I have been playing with both the Chupacabra and the Knard in the rear (both brand new) The Knard "fits" and barely contacts when spinning. The Chupy is tighter and won't spin.

I plan on shaving down the center treads of the Knard by 2-3mm to "make" it fit. Yes, I realize this is frowned upon due to proper clearance minimums (6mm i think is "safe") but I have the tire and I have the bike so why not experiment? I think this setup will be fine for dry days but I do not intend on pushing my luck in muddy conditions or risk harming the bike and myself.

Again the 29x3.0 experiment is more for fun. Maybe a 29x3.0 up front and 29x2.4 in the rear? Maybe Walt could fabricate me a new rear triangle for the 29x3.0? 

Here's my Kappius rim review with tons of pics: http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...-hubs-specialized-stumpy-6fattie-1004226.html


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crazyoldfool said:


> Thats what Im hearing more and more. The LBS said the same and my pressure is holding fine but...... Spesh is sending a new set and going with Purgs front and back this time.... including the tubeless set up. Bonus!! But I agree that Im not so sure it is a critical issue at this point though it certainly freaked me out in the beginning and im very glad to see how well the manufacturer stepped up with an issue..


Just noticed that after 4mo my GC is starting to bleed and showing sidewall "cords" coming thru... dang. It soaked up all my Orange Seal.

Did you all have to document this or did the LBS just need the tire to send back to Spesh?


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## LFJ (Dec 6, 2004)

i agree. if you have everything at your disposal might as well experiment for fun.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

darkhorse13 said:


> Thanks for the props! The Ardents measure 2.39in at the outer knobs and 2.55in at the casing. They mounted up super easy. Not sure if that's because of the Kappius offset rim design or if Maxxis tires are just that nice but I installed them with no tools and a simple floor pump. The center channel of the Kappius rim is offset making it easier to keep the opposite tire bead closer to the rim leaving more tire material to play with and stretch.
> 
> Yes the Fox fork fits the 3.0" and yes the rear is super tight. I have been playing with both the Chupacabra and the Knard in the rear (both brand new) The Knard "fits" and barely contacts when spinning. The Chupy is tighter and won't spin.
> 
> ...


What about 29 x 2.8 tire?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Got word from LBS that Trek will announce their new line up in June and adding 27.5 Plus hardtail and fully, hope to be true. Would like something in 130-140 mm travel carbon for overall Mtn slayer!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

prj71 said:


> What about 29 x 2.8 tire?


That would be perfect but I am not aware of any tire this size on the market??

I think the closest i could get to a 29x2.8 is the Fat B Nimble. I believe that tire is undersized a bit. The problem I am running up against is overall diameter not the side knobs.

The Knard is truely a 3.0" tire on the 40mm ID Kappius rims and it touched the "U" of the rear triangle at the center tread.


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## pdxfixed (Feb 18, 2016)

techfersure said:


> Got word from LBS that Trek will announce their new line up in June and adding 27.5 Plus hardtail and fully, hope to be true. Would like something in 130-140 mm travel carbon for overall Mtn slayer!


I wonder what this means for the Stache lineup, or will this new hardtail be the same frame with a B+ spec?


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## gravelynp (Aug 28, 2009)

Gratuitous bike shots


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## tgoot (Mar 9, 2016)

Here's something different for you to consider...

160mm Lyrik RC3 up front (No Pike available in this 27.5+ configuration with 160mm otherwise it'd be a Pike)

51mm stroke Monarch Plus Debonair which is 3mm longer stroke and 2mm shorter eye-to-eye. Plan to correct the eye-to-eye with an offset eyelet reducer once it arrives. The longer stroke results in ~10mm more travel out back for 145mm. 

Haven't ridden it yet - that should happen soon. I'll let you know. Yes, BB is a bit higher - if it's weird then there's always the eccentric BB run with the offset at the bottom of the shell to fix that up but some have been complaining about the low BB already so we'll see how she goes.

Just pulled the tubes out and weight is now 31lbs 5oz


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Just noticed that after 4mo my GC is starting to bleed and showing sidewall "cords" coming thru... dang. It soaked up all my Orange Seal.
> 
> Did you all have to document this or did the LBS just need the tire to send back to Spesh?


No documentation to speak of. I told my LBS, they called Spesh and they said order me new tires. When they switched them out there was zero seal in mine as well. They kept the original tires but Im not sure if they sent them back or trashed them.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crazyoldfool said:


> No documentation to speak of. I told my LBS, they called Spesh and they said order me new tires. When they switched them out there was zero seal in mine as well. They kept the original tires but Im not sure if they sent them back or trashed them.


Thanks.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

How ya guys liking your 3.0 purgs? I was thinking about getting a purg set for my plus hardtail. The surly dirt wizards are also high on my list of tire choices. Im located in the rockies. My trails are mostly loose over hardpack and big rocks.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tgoot said:


> Here's something different for you to consider...
> 
> 160mm Lyrik RC3 up front (No Pike available in this 27.5+ configuration with 160mm otherwise it'd be a Pike)
> 
> ...


Please let us know about the RockShox Monarch Plus Debonair. I got an itchy finger to try one out... OEM length though.

You'll enjoy the extra BB clearance, well at least I do in the current 29er form.

Thanks for sharing.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

tgoot said:


> Here's something different for you to consider...
> 
> 160mm Lyrik RC3 up front (No Pike available in this 27.5+ configuration with 160mm otherwise it'd be a Pike)
> 
> ...


Nice job tgoot! It's like a Stumpjumper 6fattieEVO.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

stumpynerd said:


> How ya guys liking your 3.0 purgs? I was thinking about getting a purg set for my plus hardtail. The surly dirt wizards are also high on my list of tire choices. Im located in the rockies. My trails are mostly loose over hardpack and big rocks.


I like the Purg as a front tire. I think it's tough, bites in corners and has aggressive side lugs. I don't know about running it as a rear. Probably can, but most seem to be sticking with the stock GC's.


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## tgoot (Mar 9, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Please let us know about the RockShox Monarch Plus Debonair. I got an itchy finger to try one out... OEM length though.
> 
> You'll enjoy the extra BB clearance, well at least I do in the current 29er form.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.


Just FYI - the shock I installed is 195x51mm SRAM 00.4118.139.001 (UPC=710845751196) sugg. for 26" Stumpy 2012-2014

A Monarch Plus with stock dimensions to keep travel and geo the same: 197x48mm SRAM 00.4118.139.009 (UPC = 710845777516)


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tgoot said:


> A Monarch Plus with stock dimensions to keep travel and geo the same: 197x48mm SRAM 00.4118.139.009 (UPC = 710845777516)


I am sorry I did not search this first, but can you confirm if this 197x48mm SRAM part number is 1)Specialized specific and 2)AutoSag only? Is there a non-AS version?

What tune did you go with?

Thanks!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I like the Purg quite a bit myself. I continue to be surprised by its awesomeness when I ask it to carve improbable turns after taking poor line choices approaching a corner. Of course, the more I trust it, the more I lean on it, and thus the more it grips, so there is an inherent bit of confirmation bias affecting the physics here, at least until it fails me. I am not as fond of the GC, but it does roll well, and having the back end break free somewhat more readily than the front is generally a good thing. I could see running a worn PC on the rear and a new one on the front to get the advantage of the softer rubber on the shoulder, but only after the knobs have been worn down a bit so the bike handling through dirt cornering remains some similar characteristics. (Of course, by the time I wear down the PC, there will be many more tire options to consider.)


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## tgoot (Mar 9, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> I am sorry I did not search this first, but can you confirm if this 197x48mm SRAM part number is 1)Specialized specific and 2)AutoSag only? Is there a non-AS version?
> What tune did you go with?
> Thanks!


Both shocks listed are Specialized specific and neither one has Autosag. Unfortunately there was no choice of "tune" from our distrib so this shock is Med. compression & Med. rebound. so middle of the road.

Haven't pulled the air can to see how many volume reducers are in there stock. That's a great way to change your shock's characteristics both on Rockshox and with Fox. Here's a great read about what volume mods can do for you: Turn Up the Volume: RockShox Suspension Tuning Clinic - Pinkbike


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tgoot said:


> Both shocks listed are Specialized specific and neither one has Autosag. Unfortunately there was no choice of "tune" from our distrib so this shock is Med. compression & Med. rebound. so middle of the road.
> 
> Haven't pulled the air can to see how many volume reducers are in there stock. That's a great way to change your shock's characteristics both on Rockshox and with Fox. Here's a great read about what volume mods can do for you: Turn Up the Volume: RockShox Suspension Tuning Clinic - Pinkbike


Thank you.


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I am planning on ordering a kit for the Fox fork to make it 160mm. The entire cost will be $140.00. Did you consider this or do you dislike the FOX altogether? I would like a little more slack head angle and a little more bb height. Please let us know how this rides. I also have 50mm wide carbon rims and the Schwalbe nobby nic 3.0. The specialized were not grippy enough.



tgoot said:


> Here's something different for you to consider...
> 
> 160mm Lyrik RC3 up front (No Pike available in this 27.5+ configuration with 160mm otherwise it'd be a Pike)
> 
> ...


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Is 10mm at the fork really gonna raise the bb much? I know it would raise it but it'll raise it less than 10mm 

Probably less than 5mm. But I didn't do the trig 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

It will raise it about 5mm. It will change the head angle to 66.5. I am just tinkering. I stiffened up my rear shock which was sagging a bit 
and thinking about getting some 170mm cranks.



Derek200 said:


> Is 10mm at the fork really gonna raise the bb much? I know it would raise it but it'll raise it less than 10mm
> 
> Probably less than 5mm. But I didn't do the trig
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

mydogkoal said:


> It will raise it about 5mm. It will change the head angle to 66.5. I am just tinkering. I stiffened up my rear shock which was sagging a bit
> and thinking about getting some 170mm cranks.


It would raise it by just over 3mm, so not much of a difference, but stiffening up the shock makes a big difference, and I think the bike rides better with less sag, too. I'll do the 170mm cranks at some point myself.


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Stump,

I changed to Purgs front & Back on my Fuse 27.5+ HT. They do everything better than the GC's that came stock. Feel like Mt. Bike tires, where as for me the GC's felt like Fat bike tires. Purgs: Better grip, no loss in rolling speed, stiffer sidewalls. less wt.(spec web site) etc.............

I run the same tire pressure (14-15#) with stans. 

Best $110, I have spent on a bike...a worthy upgrade


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

rushman3 said:


> Stump,
> 
> I changed to Purgs front & Back on my Fuse 27.5+ HT. They do everything better than the GC's that came stock. Feel like Mt. Bike tires, where as for me the GC's felt like Fat bike tires. Purgs: Better grip, no loss in rolling speed, stiffer sidewalls. less wt.(spec web site) etc.............
> 
> ...


I went Dura Crux 3.25 front,Wtb Bridger 3.0 rear on my Fuse.The Duro is a fantastic front really consistent and roll very well,lighter then Bridger too!


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I have 2 duro Crux 3.25 tires. I will sell them for $20.00 each if anyone is interested. I AM IN SOCAL. They are very grippy.



techfersure said:


> I went Dura Crux 3.25 front,Wtb Bridger 3.0 rear on my Fuse.The Duro is a fantastic front really consistent and roll very well,lighter then Bridger too!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,

Need some help n advise. I'm having an Expert 6Fattie with the Roval boost hubs, I'm thinking of using these hubs to build a 29er wheel set. Are these hubs similar to the DT Swiss 240 or 350? Spring n pawl design? Able to upgrade to the DT Swiss 54T? Sorry, noob on hubs design.

I'm thinking of using the carbon asymmetric rims with 35mm inner wide. Any ideas what spoke length I need? It is difficult to find the straight pull DT Swiss spokes here locally, thus I might need to order from overseas.

Or is it not worth the trouble n money on building from these Roval hubs as I need to special order the 24h/28h drillings?

Any advise n help are greatly appreciated! 

Many thanks in advance.


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## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

phride said:


> It would raise it by just over 3mm, so not much of a difference, but stiffening up the shock makes a big difference, and I think the bike rides better with less sag, too. I'll do the 170mm cranks at some point myself.


I agree about the sag! I originally set up the shock to about 27% sag, NOT using the auto-sag feature. With other autosag bikes I've had (enduro, older stumpy, my wife's Rumor), it didn't set the bike up very well I found.

However, with the new tune on the 2016 shocks, the auto-sag really does put the bike in a good spot, and I too found it rode significantly better with the -+22% sag the autosag took it to than the 27-30% I set it up with originally.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

revver said:


> Hi,
> 
> Need some help n advise. I'm having an Expert 6Fattie with the Roval boost hubs, I'm thinking of using these hubs to build a 29er wheel set. Are these hubs similar to the DT Swiss 240 or 350? Spring n pawl design? Able to upgrade to the DT Swiss 54T? Sorry, noob on hubs design.
> 
> ...


** bad info used to be here **

Like you mention, the biggest problem going with these hubs is the 24h/28h spoke counts. Might have more trouble finding a Chinese carbon rim with that hole count... at least a "reputable" one from Light Bicycle or Derby or Nextie. I believe most 29+ rims are 32h. Not saying that 24h/28h rims don't exist though...

The DT Swiss hubs you have are good but it might not be worth the trouble to search for matching rims over just selling it all outright and starting fresh. I would guess you could sell that wheelset and recoup enough cash to get a matching set of 28h or 32h hubs (with or without straight pull and even option of centerlock rotors) and be back in the same boat you are now. Spoke length is typically found on the hub manufacturer's website. Your LBS could probably help you with that too if they build wheels.

Good luck.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Darkhorse doesn't slum it with alloy wheels, so forgive his ignorance of such blue collar concerns , but the DT Swiss 360 rear hub internals use a 3-pawl mechanism, rather than the star ratchet of the 350/240 hubs. My understanding is that the 360 hubs have 24 POE. Sorry, I'm enough of a newb, that I an't tell you about the specifics of getting them built-up into a new 29er wheel. You might want to post on the wheels and tires forum, perhaps in the Roval thread, to get specifics on what it would take/cost.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> Darkhorse doesn't slum it with alloy wheels, so forgive his ignorance of such blue collar concerns , but the DT Swiss 360 rear hub internals use a 3-pawl mechanism, rather than the star ratchet of the 350/240 hubs. My understanding is that the 360 hubs have 24 POE. Sorry, I'm enough of a newb, that I an't tell you about the specifics of getting them built-up into a new 29er wheel. You might want to post on the wheels and tires forum, perhaps in the Roval thread, to get specifics on what it would take/cost.


ha, phride you know me too well! i am cracking up right now. it's hard for me to speak intelligently about materials other than carbon so pardon my ignorance 

seriously though, thanks for the insight on the DT Swiss 360 hub and I detract my non-sense advise.

i'll continue to follow the rest of this conversation from the comforts of my ivory tower...

John


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

revver said:


> Need some help n advise. I'm having an Expert 6Fattie with the Roval boost hubs, I'm thinking of using these hubs to build a 29er wheel set. Are these hubs similar to the DT Swiss 240 or 350? Spring n pawl design? Able to upgrade to the DT Swiss 54T? Sorry, noob on hubs design....


I haven't opened up the rear hub on the Expert 6Fattie, but the Roval hubs I've seen have DT350 internals. These use a ratchet drive system, not pawls & springs. The number of ratchet teeth can be 18, 36 or 54 giving 20, 10 or 6.7 degree engagement. You can quickly and easily tell which you have by slowly rotating the rear wheel and counting the "clicks" as it goes through 90° or 180° of rotation and multiplying to get 360°. 18t with 20° engagement is lame, 36t and 10° is "twice as good", 54t and 6.7° is best but not essential. Higher end Spesh wheels now come with the 54t ratchet. It's easy to upgrade if you want to spend the $ by simply removing the XD driver body and swapping ratchets. Just open yours up, take a look, and count teeth to confirm.

Oops, just saw phride's post - I'm not familiar with DT360 hubs.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, I'm sorry if I started some misunderstanding, not my intention. 

I will find out more on the DT360 hub because I only see n read on the 240 n 350. 

The reason I wanted to reuse the Roval hubs are because it does save me some money n I find them to roll quite smoothly. I can also get the carbon rims company to custom their rims to 24 holes for e front rim.

Just thought I can get some advise here from more experienced owners.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Quick tubeless question on the 6Fattie. I don't have any prior experience with using a tubeless set up. I just set up the new 6Fattie tubeless. Is there any reason I should carry around a tube in by camelback? I can't think of a situation where I would need it but again, I have no experience running a tubeless setup. I don't want to carry it if I'm never gonna use it. Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

If you cut the sidewall, you'll want a tube to get home. I haven't had any issues with stock tires on the mostly rounded granite around here, but it's a sensible precaution, unless you don't mind hiking a bike.


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

You should carry a tube. It's not that hard to puncture your tire with a big enough hole that the sealant can't deal with it. I've never had that happen, but I think that's because I always carry a tube.

If you have a big puncture and you're by yourself and you have to walk out, then that's bad. If you have a buddy who runs tubeless but has a tube you can use, then that's great. If you have to borrow a tube from someone who still rides around with tubes in their tires, you'll never hear the end of it.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Another thing you can do if you want to be extra cautious is to wrap a few turns of duct tape around your tire lever. It may help you seal a sidewall tear large enough for the tube to protrude thru. Always good to have some duct tape on hand in any case.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Welnic said:


> You should carry a tube. It's not that hard to puncture your tire with a big enough hole that the sealant can't deal with it. I've never had that happen, but I think that's because I always carry a tube.
> 
> If you have a big puncture and you're by yourself and you have to walk out, then that's bad. If you have a buddy who runs tubeless but has a tube you can use, then that's great. If you have to borrow a tube from someone who still rides around with tubes in their tires, you'll never hear the end of it.


Im in Wyoming and I carry 2 tubes even though Im running tubeless. I learned my lesson up in the remote Snowy Range backcounty. :nono:


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Walking out of a long trail sucks. Take a tube. I always turn around when I use my last tube. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

gigrob said:


> Quick tubeless question on the 6Fattie. I don't have any prior experience with using a tubeless set up. I just set up the new 6Fattie tubeless. Is there any reason I should carry around a tube in by camelback? I can't think of a situation where I would need it but again, I have no experience running a tubeless setup. I don't want to carry it if I'm never gonna use it. Thanks


I would agree with all posts.... If im sessioning in and out pretty close to the car (less than a mile) ill go without anything but a water bottle with me. If Im a good ways out I carry tubes, CO2 (3) and a little extra sealant. One of the suckiest rides Ive ever had was 6 miles in, no spare tube and pinched the rear tube........ the next day I went tubeless! **NOTE** Fattie tires do not roll worth a crap when completely flat so be prepared to carry! Good luck out there!


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Well I guess that answers my question. Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like I'll be carrying a tube. On a side note, this bike is THE BALLS! A little heavier than my 2010 Stumpy that it replaced but just an unbelievable ride! Thanks again.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

[ If you have to borrow a tube from someone who still rides around with tubes in their tires, you'll never hear the end of it.[/QUOTE]

Haha! I can totally see that happening with the guys I ride with!!


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

gigrob said:


> Well I guess that answers my question. Thanks everyone for the input. Looks like I'll be carrying a tube. On a side note, this bike is THE BALLS!


I ended up with a SJ FSR Comp 6F and am still riding with tubes, is there enough difference to go tubeless? So far, this bike is a blast here in the Puget Sound area. It's not a rocket by any means and I find that on steep climbs, I continue to hit the shift in case the mountain gods have magically given me another couple of teeth! But the thing grips and easily out climbs my buddies 27.5+ with normal tires.

I'm finding about 12.5 PSI seems to be a nice pressure without any wallow in the turns or bottoming out the rims on the roots and rocks.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Go tubeless!*



RVbldr said:


> I ended up with a SJ FSR Comp 6F and am still riding with tubes, is there enough difference to go tubeless? ...


The tubes I removed from the same model weighed 290g each. If you add ~100g sealant instead you'll save ~0.8 lb. of rotating weight, have a more supple ride, and not have to worry nearly as much about flats.

Stan's sealant at work (no flats):


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

If you are riding tubes at 12.5 psi, converting to tubeless won't change the ride too much, but it will save a decent amount of rotational weight and make you much less prone to both pinch flats and punctures. There is no downside in my book.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I hit a rock and burped the tyre and a piece of the rock broke off and wedged between tyre and rim letting all the air out. Could not reset the tyre and a tube saved the day.
I bought one of the Back Country straps and now have a tube placed above the bottle cage, so it is always there, even if you don't have a Camelback on shorter rides.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Picked up an XL Expert and have been riding it for about 2 weeks now. Went tubeless on my last ride. I am a larger rider at 6'2 225lbs and find I have to run 18-20 PSI in the rear and 15 PSI up front. Tried to run 15 PSI in the back but in higher speed corners and loading into jumps the tire would wallow and on square edge hits I would hit the rim. I still get a ton of traction but find I have to slow my suspension down from my normal settings to account for more rebound in the tires.

So far I love the bike and feel like it was made for guys my size. I have set PR's on my local trails without really setting out to try as the grip and overall stability just make motoring along so easy and cleaning the tough climbs a non-event.

What I find amazing is the travel feels like there is more than my Ibis Mojo HD and more in line with DH bikes I have ridden. That was really unexpected but makes sense when you add the extra travel you get with the larger tires.


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

The Fattie seems to suit us little guys too. I am running 10 psi front and rear and that seems to be my sweet spot for stability and grip.
Three months on and still loving the bike.


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## guvna (Mar 31, 2008)

Brenick, 10 PSI? Jeepers how much do you weight ?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I am on 11 and 12 and have run 10psi
I am 76 kg or 168 lbs


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

guvna said:


> Brenick, 10 PSI? Jeepers how much do you weight ?


65kg + pack/water.
Funny because I would never had run them that low if I had known the pressure.
I had the bike for two months before I got an accurate low pressure gauge. I had done it all by feel and when I got the gauge and checked I was really surprised by how low it was. And yes. the gauge is accurate.
I only run 3 psi on my Fatboy.


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

When i took my bike to my lbs to get the tyre checked after a couple of rides as i dont have a pump. They told me the front tyre only got 9psi and rear got 12psi. I need to invest on a good tyre pump! happy with my SJ comp carbon 6fattie.


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## boubla (May 12, 2012)

Probably a dumb question but i couldnt find it.. can the 6fatty accommodate 29er wheels (since its made for 27.5+ and thats pretty close) ?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

boubla said:


> Probably a dumb question but i couldnt find it.. can the 6fatty accommodate 29er wheels (since its made for 27.5+ and thats pretty close) ?


Absolutely! It's an absolute blast as well. It gets the BB out of the weeds for a more XC feel. Basically it's a Stumpy 29er (both share the same front triangle) with slacker HT angle and more fork.

It's going to hopefully fit a 29er+ as well. (Chupa front and Fat B Nimble rear)


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Absolutely! It's an absolute blast as well. It gets the BB out of the weeds for a more XC feel. Basically it's a Stumpy 29er (both share the same front triangle) with slacker HT angle and more fork.
> 
> It's going to hopefully fit a 29er+ as well. (Chupa front and Fat B Nimble rear)


NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! YESSSSSSSSS!!!

DH13, this post is pushing me so close to the edge. In what riding conditions/terrain do you prefer each wheel size?

I have been wringing my hands trying to figure out which wheel size Stumpy FSR (Expert level) to get. Until a couple of days ago, I only got to try the 29er, and it felt good, but it was only around the parking lot a few times, jumping over curbs and down small grassy hills. Then yesterday, I finally got to see and try a 6Fattie and a 650b, back to back, and even on a little dirt! It was a small, flat neighborhood park, but it had singletrack, good size roots and some log rides.

Long story short, the 6Fattie was a beautiful floating magic carpet ride. The 650b was a quick and twitchy ride underneath me.

Tonight, a friend and I are swapping bikes for a ride. I'll try his 650b Stumpy, and he'll have to slum it on my rigid bike :devil:. It'll be a more thorough test than last night's, and I just want to be sure before I cross the 650b off the list.

I was contemplating if I should try the Stumpy 29er again just to be sure (a friend is willing to let me try his S-Works on real trails for a long ride), but the 6Fattie's versatility is more appealing. I'm just left wondering what I'll lose by not getting the dedicated 29er. Most of my Stumpy owning friends and magazines seem to be pushing me to the 29er. It's the fastest, they say, but I haven't been a racer for a long time. Thoughts?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! YESSSSSSSSS!!!
> 
> DH13, this post is pushing me so close to the edge. In what riding conditions/terrain do you prefer each wheel size?
> 
> ...


Hey Drevil,
I live in the Midwest and most of our trails are singletrack hardpack/loose over hard. Lots of roots, tight turns, and flowy sections. Honestly the 6fattie is probably overkill around here. There are only a handful of downhills around here that I can actually push the full capability of the bike but when I get to let it rip it doesn't disappoint 

I got the 29er wheelset to have options. A 150mm/135mm trail bike rolling on 29x2.4's is a blast on fast days. It's snappier, feels quicker on the gas and still provides a level of confidence (albeit not as much as looking down at the 3.0" rubber). I come off carbon 29er XC hardtails and my last full boinger was a 2015 Niner Jet 9 with 120mm/100mm. I guess I am partial to that type of feel and the 6fattie in 27.5+ form was quite the departure. Now that I have the 29er wheelset I get that flickable feel but with a slacker HT and much more squish. When I decide to get rowdy though I love throwing back on the 27.5+ meats.

Here's my take on why I'd go with the 6fattie over the dedicated SJ 29er...
1) both bikes share the same front triangle and are very similar (BB height, wheelbase) when the 6fattie is in 29er form
2) 6fattie is boost 110/148. you'll be up to date with "latest and greatest"
3) 6fattie gets you a 150mm fork vs 140mm. The extra 10mm of the 6fattie with 29er wheels has not "ruined" geometry in my opinion
4) make sure you don't rub on the wider chainstays with you feet on the 6fattie
5) Dirt Rag magazine just released a new copy in which they do a comparison of the SJ 27.5/29/27.5+ Very factual and overall I agree with their take-aways. Good read if you're on the fence and want a "professional" opinion.

I haven't ridden my friend's 2016 SJ Expert Carbon 29er back to back with my 6fattie-29er yet but I would imagine they are going to feel similar, sans the slacker HT angle.

One last comment that might be specific to my riding style, but I feel is worthy to mention... I think that the 29er wheelset took care of one of the biggest issues I have with the 6fattie which is pedal strikes. As I mentioned above I come off XC style hardtails and a Jet Nine full suspension. I like to pedal out of turns and get on the gas up rooty/rocky burst climbs. With the 6fattie in 27.5+ setup I pedal strike quite a bit. I try to be conscious of half pedaling and timing my strokes but I still find myself striking when I don't anticipate it. It's not a deal breaker but it's taking me longer to adapt to 27.5+ size than I thought. Now that I have the 29er wheels I find myself on the same climbs not having to worry about things nearly as much. Granted I give up the fun traction of the 3.0" but it's worthy trade-off on a few trails around here.

Overall, I think you get a 2 for 1 deal with the 6fattie if you buy a 29er wheelset. I am going to test out a 29x3.0 set up in the next month and hopefully find yet another bike within the 6fattie.

Thanks.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

When I was bike shopping I read how people described a bike as fast. It's really misleading. 

If you provide the input (wattage) to the pedals all of these bikes will go the same speed. A 29'er isn't faster than a 26 or 27.5. The hearing is different when you change wheel size but that doesn't make a bike faster than a different wheel with comparable gearing. 

They will handle differently but they all go the same speed. 

Now the 6fattie will have more rolling resistance. But I have read that is somewhere around 5-7%. So buy one of those low drag chains and get all that back if it's noticeable. 

I have found that the 6 Fattie is the most fun bike I have. I can't tell a difference in lap times. Occasionally I think I am slower up hills cause of the weight. But it's more psychological that real I think. My kids all fight for he 6 Fattie when we go for rides. 



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## Guest (Mar 22, 2016)

Derek200 said:


> When I was bike shopping I read how people described a bike as fast. *It's really misleading.*
> 
> If you provide the input (wattage) to the pedals all of these bikes will go the same speed. A 29'er isn't faster than a 26 or 27.5. The hearing is different when you change wheel size but that doesn't make a bike faster than a different wheel with comparable gearing.
> 
> ...


yes it's quite misleading, but then one must wade through the hype/advertisement push etc.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey Drevil,
> I live in the Midwest and most of our trails are singletrack hardpack/loose over hard. Lots of roots, tight turns, and flowy sections. Honestly the 6fattie is probably overkill around here. There are only a handful of downhills around here that I can actually push the full capability of the bike but when I get to let it rip it doesn't disappoint
> ...


Right before I ran out of the house for the test ride, I got the latest Dirt Rag you mentioned and speed read it  I didn't think I'd like 6Fattie as much as I did, and it is currently my favorite.

I'm in Maryland, and the trails I prefer are rocky, rooty, with relatively short uphills. I ride a rigid fat bike slow and methodically most of the time, but I'd like to just let it all go and blast on the downhills once in a while. Doing that on a fat bike (with the proper pressure to prevent rim strikes) makes me feel like I'm riding on basketballs bouncing on rocks sometimes  Here's a sample of one of my favorite trails. I'm the goofball in the blue unitard:






Thank you so much for your writeup and relaying your experiences. I threw a green rep chicklet up for you


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Thanks Drevil! Cool video.

Sorry for using the "f" word... ha. Indeed, take the word "fast" with a grain of salt. I agree that there's so much more to it than just wheel size (tires are a big factor).

29er = getting on the gas sooner out of a turn makes it feel faster than 27.5+
27.5+ = carrying more speed thru a turn makes it feel faster than 29er

Result = Big smiles on both platforms and probably the same "fastness" overall but different sensory perception while doing it.

Again, I just want to stress the capability of being able to run the 6fattie both ways.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Drevil, if you like riding in places like the Shed, get the fatty. I have a couple year old SJ FSR 29, and the SJ fatty. The 29er doesn't get ridden anymore.

I ride in the Shed occasionally, but usually stay on the VA side in Elizabeth Furnace, Massanutten, Great North Mt, etc. Big tires rock. Low bottom brackets suck. Hard compound stock tires suck (on our rocks anyway, they are great on dirt). Fragile tires suck (the stock tires are barely adequate for trail riding here).

My setup: 6fatty comp. Eccentric BB spun to the top (+10mm), 170mm cranks (+5mm higher), carbon 45mm internal rims, sticky 48a compound surly dirt wizard tires.

I'd love an extra 10mm of pedal/crank arm clearance, but the mods I made have made it bearable.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

majr said:


> My setup: 6fatty comp. Eccentric BB spun to the top (+10mm), 170mm cranks (+5mm higher), carbon 45mm internal rims, sticky 48a compound surly dirt wizard tires.


Interesting. I am not at all familiar with eccentric BB's but that sounds like a nice work around.

What are you using if I can ask?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Just weighing in really quick on the pedal strike issue: I got mine in August and pedal strikes were happening more often than with my old bike. However, as with anything, you will get used to the timing of when/where to pedal and plan accordingly - by September I wasn't striking anything anymore and I really haven't since then. 

The pros of having a lower bottom bracket FAR outweigh an occasional pedal strike. You sit lower in the frame, and your center of gravity overall is lower - which means your handling ability (especially cornering) is much, much more stable than on a bike with a higher bottom bracket. More stable = safer riding = more confidence = faster riding.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

The eccentric be sounds neat but I have a really long inseam proportionately. And I assume I'd have to raise my saddle if I raised the bb. That wouldn't be good. I already wish for more stack!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

majr said:


> Drevil, if you like riding in places like the Shed, get the fatty. I have a couple year old SJ FSR 29, and the SJ fatty. The 29er doesn't get ridden anymore.
> 
> I ride in the Shed occasionally, but usually stay on the VA side in Elizabeth Furnace, Massanutten, Great North Mt, etc. Big tires rock. Low bottom brackets suck. Hard compound stock tires suck (on our rocks anyway, they are great on dirt). Fragile tires suck (the stock tires are barely adequate for trail riding here).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips majr. It's cool because you're close by and we like the same kind of trails. I went back and looked at some of your posts in this thread and picked up some more good info.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

darkhorse13 said:


> Interesting. I am not at all familiar with eccentric BB's but that sounds like a nice work around.
> 
> What are you using if I can ask?


The Wheels Mfg EBB
Eccentric Bottom Bracket for PF30 & 24/22mm (SRAM, Truvativ) Cranks - Red

With a 170mm SRAM GX GXP (not bb30!) crank with a non-boost chainring.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Just weighing in really quick on the pedal strike issue: I got mine in August and pedal strikes were happening more often than with my old bike. However, as with anything, you will get used to the timing of when/where to pedal and plan accordingly - by September I wasn't striking anything anymore and I really haven't since then.
> 
> The pros of having a lower bottom bracket FAR outweigh an occasional pedal strike. You sit lower in the frame, and your center of gravity overall is lower - which means your handling ability (especially cornering) is much, much more stable than on a bike with a higher bottom bracket. More stable = safer riding = more confidence = faster riding.


Yes and no. It depends on your terrain. I've ridden about 900 miles on the fatty, so I'm about as accustomed to the pedal clearance as I'm going to get. I've also gotten to ride it in a bunch of different places.

Cali- Santa Cruz/Soquel/UCSC/Pogonip/Montery. Never even got close to hitting a pedal.

Colorado front range. Very rarely. Sometimes I'd clip a pedal on the uphill waterbar logs. No biggie.

Sedona. Occasionally clipped the rocks climbing rough lines and on the very off camber slickrock traverses. Not enough to be annoying, but required extra care.

Virginia home trails. All. The. Time.

It would be awesome if Specialized followed Trek, Scott, and others and included a flip link in the rear shock linkage to adjust BB height and head angle...


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

majr said:


> Yes and no. It depends on your terrain. I've ridden about 900 miles on the fatty, so I'm about as accustomed to the pedal clearance as I'm going to get. I've also gotten to ride it in a bunch of different places.
> 
> Cali- Santa Cruz/Soquel/UCSC/Pogonip/Montery. Never even got close to hitting a pedal.
> 
> ...


I think Ill try majr's fix below. Im geting better at ratcheting and holding on full strokes but man it seems like when I do strike, it is absolutely the wrong time....like on very aggressive off camber climbs. Just not sure how much stroke leverage Ill lose going from 175 to 170mm cranks.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

majr said:


> Yes and no. It depends on your terrain. I've ridden about 900 miles on the fatty, so I'm about as accustomed to the pedal clearance as I'm going to get. I've also gotten to ride it in a bunch of different places.
> 
> Cali- Santa Cruz/Soquel/UCSC/Pogonip/Montery. Never even got close to hitting a pedal.
> 
> ...


I'm 5'9" with 32" inseam, and I have been using 165mm cranks on most of my bikes since 2008. I think this will be the biggest adjustment on the Stumpjumper.

When I tried riding my buddy's medium 2016 Stumpy 650b a few nights ago for ~5 miles, I had 4 pedal strikes in the first 5 minutes. I was forcing myself to stop pedaling in certain situations where I'd normally pedal through, and it felt unnatural.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I'm 5'9" with 32" inseam, and I have been using 165mm cranks on most of my bikes since 2008. I think this will be the biggest adjustment on the Stumpjumper.
> 
> When I tried riding my buddy's medium 2016 Stumpy 650b a few nights ago for ~5 miles, I had 4 pedal strikes in the first 5 minutes. I was forcing myself to stop pedaling in certain situations where I'd normally pedal through, and it felt unnatural.


Drevil, did you notice an improvement going from the 165 to 175MM cranks? Other than the pedal strikes that is......


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crazyoldfool said:


> but man it seems like when I do strike, it is *absolutely the wrong time*....like on very aggressive off camber climbs.





Drevil said:


> I was forcing myself to stop pedaling in certain situations where I'd normally pedal through, and *it felt unnatural*.


Both of these sum up my experience as well. I'm trying to adapt


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

crazyoldfool said:


> Drevil, did you notice an improvement going from the 165 to 175MM cranks? Other than the pedal strikes that is......


Improvement? I assume you mean by having more leverage? No, not really. I've gotten used to dropping it down (or setting it up, if singlespeed) to lower gears and spinny spin spinning. I hate to do changes to a brand new bike, but majr's mods at least let me know it was possible to raise up the BB somehow.

I'm not sure I mentioned it before, but I've been riding rigid singlespeed almost exclusively from 2001-2015. On my trip to Vegas last month, I used my pinklespeed on trails like South West Ridge, Cottonwood, and Bears Best, and I was utterly destroyed. My hands were hamburger, my back was a wreck, and the cartilage in my knees felt like it was ground to a paste. I'm guess I'm just getting old. This is what started my quest for a full suspension. Since I ride (and love) my fat bike most of the time now, I sought the 6Fattie, and after trying it, I was hooked!

I just ordered mine yesterday, and I hope it will be here tomorrow. I have lots of questions, but I'll try to answer them myself by reading through this and other threads. Since I have a silly proclivity to _attempt_ to get over big logs and rocks, one of the first things I'll be looking for is a bashguard.

Any suggestions welcome!


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

crazyoldfool said:


> I think Ill try majr's fix below. Im geting better at ratcheting and holding on full strokes but man it seems like when I do strike, it is absolutely the wrong time....like on very aggressive off camber climbs. Just not sure how much stroke leverage Ill lose going from 175 to 170mm cranks.


2.9%


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

majr said:


> 2.9%


LOL! Ill definitely give it a shot. Still wouldnt ride anything else but if I can reduce the strikes.......... pure awesome!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

How is the eccentric BB working in that pressfit shell? I'd think applying torque through cranks positioned off-center like that would be even more likely to lead to a creaking BB bracket than pressfit BBs already are. (Not that that might not be worth an extra cm of clearance.)

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## Guest (Mar 24, 2016)

Drevil said:


> Improvement? I assume you mean by having more leverage? No, not really. I've gotten used to dropping it down (or setting it up, if singlespeed) to lower gears and spinny spin spinning. I hate to do changes to a brand new bike, but majr's mods at least let me know it was possible to raise up the BB somehow.
> 
> I'm not sure I mentioned it before, but I've been riding rigid singlespeed almost exclusively from 2001-2015. On my trip to Vegas last month, I used my pinklespeed on trails like South West Ridge, Cottonwood, and Bears Best, and I was utterly destroyed. My hands were hamburger, my back was a wreck, and the cartilage in my knees felt like it was ground to a paste. *I'm guess I'm just getting old.* This is what started my quest for a full suspension. Since I ride (and love) my fat bike most of the time now, I sought the 6Fattie, and after trying it I was hooked.


correct, full squish is a body saver which allows a bit longer in the saddle as you continue to age gracefully.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

Drevil said:


> I used my pinklespeed on trails like South West Ridge, Cottonwood, and Bears Best, and I was utterly destroyed. My hands were hamburger, my back was a wreck, and the cartilage in my knees felt like it was ground to a paste. I'm guess I'm just getting old.


You're scaring me. I wonder if a 2.8 or fatter tire would take enough edge off a rigid bike in rougher conditions, or if suspension is ultimately the way to go.


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## Guest (Mar 24, 2016)

jpre said:


> You're scaring me. I wonder if a 2.8 or fatter tire would take enough edge off a rigid bike in rougher conditions, or if suspension is ultimately the way to go.


plenty of folks going to plus+ rubber on rigid's to take the edge off but difficult to speak for each person.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

phride said:


> How is the eccentric BB working in that pressfit shell? I'd think applying torque through cranks positioned off-center like that would be even more likely to lead to a creaking BB bracket than pressfit BBs already are. (Not that that might not be worth an extra cm of clearance.)
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Fantastic, actually. I was also concerned about that. The Wheels Mfg kit has cups that hold the bearing offset and presses into the frame, but it isn't a super tight fit. To make it secure there are two 80mm bolts that align an hold those cups tight in the frame. Mine hasn't creaked and the bearings are still very smooth.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

majr said:


> Fantastic, actually. I was also concerned about that. The Wheels Mfg kit has cups that hold the bearing offset and presses into the frame, but it isn't a super tight fit. To make it secure there are two 80mm bolts that align an hold those cups tight in the frame. Mine hasn't creaked and the bearings are still very smooth.


Excellent. I may have to try this with a 175 crank. The Canfield Crampons do a pretty good job of increasing my pedal clearance already.

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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I ordered this on Wednesday and it got to the shop on Friday. Picked her up this morning, then twelve rocky miles at the (Frederick Watershed in Maryland) immediately after. I wasn't a slobbering mess after the ride. I love it!

I like the low-key look, and was considering taking off as many stickers as possible (like the Roval and Fox). Anybody do that already?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Congrats! Looks great


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

jpre said:


> You're scaring me. I wonder if a 2.8 or fatter tire would take enough edge off a rigid bike in rougher conditions, or if suspension is ultimately the way to go.


As NVfattie said, full squish became necessary for me in my old age. For example, plus tires wouldn't save my back from the pondside trails with roots running across then almost continuously. Of course, common sense keeps me from such places most of the time. Still, when it comes to softening a ride over rough terrain, FS does more than plus tires. Only you can say whether that's worth it for you. If I were 15 years younger I probably would have leaned toward getting a Torrent, but even then, the smooth ride of the 6 Fattie could have convinced me otherwise

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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

phride said:


> As NVfattie said, full squish became necessary for me in my old age. For example, plus tires wouldn't save my back from the pondside trails with roots running across then almost continuously. Of course, common sense keeps me from such places most of the time. Still, when it comes to softening a ride over rough terrain, FS does more than plus tires. Only you can say whether that's worth it for you. If I were 15 years younger I probably would have leaned toward getting a Torrent, but even then, the smooth ride of the 6 Fattie could have convinced me otherwise
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I'm just shy of 60 and purchased a used Fuse Comp on a whim. I had intended to go full fat but got sidetracked by Plus size. I find it very forgiving for a hardtail,I fractured my right ankle last July and has a plate and screws,my left ankle was partially severed in 76 from head on collision on motorcycle and am plagued by artritis, my average ride is 2-4 hrs of aggressive riding on very diverse terrain and am blown away on how the 3" tires take the edge off. Plus size allowed me to relive my hartail roots again!


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I am trying to decide between the S-Works and the Expert. Is XX1 and Carbon wheels really worth the 2k price difference?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I am not really sure you could tell a difference between XX1 and XO1, both are great and weigh about the same. On the wheels you will need to decide if you want to keep the narrow rims. For all mountain riding I actually prefer a 30 -32 id rim over the wider rims, but you need to decide this based on your weight and riding style. If you think you would not be happy with the narrow rims, get the expert and have the shop order the Roval carbon 38 wheels. These wheels are a great comprimise between the narrow and fat tire rims. Buy yourself the carbon handlebar you want and you will still be under the S-works cost. Both are great! Have fun.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So far I have had no issues with the 29mm wheels on the Expert I have been demoing so moving to the Carbon version could only be better as when I went to the Roval SL's on my Ibis Mojo HD it was one of the best upgrades I did for the bike. 

As for bars I will be using Renthal carbon's. 

The frame's are the same other than finish? The only difference in the fork is Kishima? Rear shock is the same. Brakes are XTR but not sure if that is really better than XT? 

Am I missing anything?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Day 2, ride 2, and the bike is a blast. That said, there are a couple of things that are disconcerting with the seatpost.

1. The IRCC seatpost's seal head has come loose, and every time I drop the saddle then raise it, the seal head slides up. I tried pressing it down evenly with 6 of my fingers, but it doesn't stay. I'm afraid that dirt/mud will build up on the head, scratch the post, then become useless. Has this happened to anyone else?









I watched this video, and it looks like a press and complete dismantling is needed to get the seal to seat properly (4 minute mark):





2. The seatpost has dropped on its own from the fully extended position to the next one down. Yesterday it happened 5 times on a fireroad climb. The shop said to turn the lever's barrel adjuster in to give a little slack, which I did. It happened once or twice today. Maybe I just need to dial it in a little more.

Any insight appreciated!


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Drevil said:


> Day 2, ride 2, and the bike is a blast. That said, there are a couple of things that are disconcerting with the seatpost.
> 
> 1. The IRCC seatpost's seal head has come loose, and every time I drop the saddle then raise it, the seal head slides up. I tried pressing it down evenly with 6 of my fingers, but it doesn't stay. I'm afraid that dirt/mud will build up on the head, scratch the post, then become useless. Has this happened to anyone else?
> 
> ...


It's stuffed. get them to replace it.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

How much stans sealant you guys running in your tires? I was thinking about putting an 100mls in.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I ordered this on Wednesday and it got to the shop on Friday. Picked her up this morning, then twelve rocky miles at the (Frederick Watershed in Maryland) immediately after. I wasn't a slobbering mess after the ride. I love it!
> 
> I like the low-key look, and was considering taking off as many stickers as possible (like the Roval and Fox). Anybody do that already?
> 
> View attachment 1059723


Awesome ride! I would leave the flash but to each his own. Those rims with the stickers would look great on my Orange Comp Fattie if you want to trade? LOL! Totally incognito is a cool look too......


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

stumpynerd said:


> How much stans sealant you guys running in your tires? I was thinking about putting an 100mls in.


4oz here.....just slightly over 100ml and I will add very soon since I just changed tires. As much as I need that I can still hear it moving a little bit.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

crazyoldfool said:


> 4oz here.....just slightly over 100ml and I will add very soon since I just changed tires. As much as I need that I can still hear it moving a little bit.


Thanks Stewy! ha ha.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Drevil said:


> ...one of the first things I'll be looking for is a bashguard.


I'm seriously thinking about buying this MRP XCg V2 32 tooth bashguard. Any experience or thoughts on it? It won't invalidate my frame warranty, will it?
MRP XCg V2 Bash Guard 32T ISCG-05 - AEBike.com


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The XCg V2 and the AMG are sweet pieces and I'd highly recommend it. The 32t will actually clear up to a 34t ring. I run the AMG (3+ years) and several of my now run the XCg v2 and there have never been any issues once installed. 
The only problem we ever encountered was using the right size washers during the install so it clears the frame but doesnt rub the chain while in the 42t ring.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Thanks Mr. Lynch. The XX1 crank has a 28T ring, so the guard might even be a little big! 

Do they make the bashguards smaller than 32T? That's the smallest I've personally found.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I was looking at a bashguard, but decided against it. I'd rather manage hitting the chain-covered chainring than have a bashguard that's the better part of a centimeter lower than the chain ring and hit it more often. For all the discussion of pedal strikes being dangerous, those are much easier for me to ride through than when I get high-bridged on the bottom bracket. 

Your frame warranty should still be good. I did find some smaller chain guards (28-30T) when was looking, but they were harder to find. 

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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I find the taco bash will slide real nice over soft wet logs and rock where as the chain/ring will sometimes dig in. Considering how expensive the rings are the extra protection is nice. 
Anything smaller than maybe 30t model wouldnt come down much past the frame!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

These guys make a pretty unobtrusive bash guard. Various specific sizes available down to 28t: 77designz.com - NEW crash-plate | 28T (ISCG 05)


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

phride said:


> I was looking at a bashguard, but decided against it. I'd rather manage hitting the chain-covered chainring than have a bashguard that's the better part of a centimeter lower than the chain ring and hit it more often. For all the discussion of pedal strikes being dangerous, those are much easier for me to ride through than when I get high-bridged on the bottom bracket.
> 
> Your frame warranty should still be good. I did find some smaller chain guards (28-30T) when was looking, but they were harder to find.


High-centering was something I was considering also and I'm still undecided. Today I was able to get over a few ~24" logs easily without touching the chainring. When I approached one that was 30" high (which I can do on my fat bike), I rolled by it because I knew I would be dragging my chainring over it. Then I wondered if I would try it with the Stumpy even with a bashguard.



bad andy said:


> These guys make a pretty unobtrusive bash guard. Various specific sizes available down to 28t: 77designz.com - NEW crash-plate | 28T (ISCG 05)


 That looks pretty nice, but my concern would be that because it's only mounted by two bolts instead of three, it could go sideways and mess up the frame. I'm bash-full, and I think a 3rd mounting bolt would be safer under me.

One other purty one I ran into was the Absolute Black one, but it's a little pricey $79 shipped to U.S. absoluteBLACK | TACO Bashguard


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> High-centering was something I was considering also and I'm still undecided. Today I was able to get over a few ~24" logs easily without touching the chainring. When I approached one that was 30" high (which I can do on my fat bike), I rolled by it because I knew I would be dragging my chainring over it. Then I wondered if I would try it with the Stumpy even with a bashguard.
> 
> That looks pretty nice, but my concern would be that because it's only mounted by two bolts instead of three, it could go sideways and mess up the frame. I'm bash-full, and I think a 3rd mounting bolt would be safer under me.
> 
> One other purty one I ran into was the Absolute Black one, but it's a little pricey $79 shipped to U.S. absoluteBLACK | TACO Bashguard


+1 on all of the absoluteBLACK stuff! I run their oval chainrings on all of my bikes. Very good quality and visually pleasing too


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I took the bike to the shop and they took care of the seatpost. Seems the end of the cable (closest to the post) was not seated properly. Also, they replaced the top seal with another one, and the IRCC post is working perfectly now.

That said, Day 5, and I'm already getting a lil squeaking from the bottom bracket area? Really? Aye chihuahua. Anything I can do to quiet it, or is that just an accepted part of having a press fit bottom bracket (which I've never had before).

For those of you that got 29er wheelsets, what width rims did you go with? Do you change any of your shock settings when you swap wheelsets?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I took the bike to the shop and they took care of the seatpost. Seems the end of the cable (closest to the post) was not seated properly. Also, they replaced the top seal with another one, and the IRCC post is working perfectly now.
> 
> That said, Day 5, and I'm already getting a lil squeaking from the bottom bracket area? Really? Aye chihuahua. Anything I can do to quiet it, or is that just an accepted part of having a press fit bottom bracket (which I've never had before).
> 
> For those of you that got 29er wheelsets, what width rims did you go with? Do you change any of your shock settings when you swap wheelsets?


Drevil make sure the "bottom bracket" squeak isn't actually coming from a loose rear axle...... Mine was doing that and even had the shop scratching their head......for about 2 minutes.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

crazyoldfool said:


> Drevil make sure the "bottom bracket" squeak isn't actually coming from a loose rear axle...... Mine was doing that and even had the shop scratching their head......for about 2 minutes.


Thank you sir. I'll make sure it's tight. Hopefully that's all it is!


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Also make sure it's not your pedal's causing the noise.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

crazyoldfool said:


> Drevil make sure the "bottom bracket" squeak isn't actually coming from a loose rear axle...... Mine was doing that and even had the shop scratching their head......for about 2 minutes.





Murchman said:


> Also make sure it's not your pedal's causing the noise.


Just for reference if people come back and see that I had a squeaky BB problem, I figured it out. The crank bolt on the XX1 crankarm was really loose. I tightened it up and the squeaking went away. It was then that I noticed clicking from the headset area. Ha! This bike refuses to cállate!


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Drevil said:


> Just for reference if people come back and see that I had a squeaky BB problem, I figured it out. The crank bolt on the XX1 crankarm was really loose. I tightened it up and the squeaking went away. It was then that I noticed clicking from the headset area. Ha! This bike refuses to cállate!


The headsets Specialized uses are the worst. My lower will separate and make a racket. And they are poorly sealed and will rust/corrode very quickly.


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

gigrob said:


> Quick tubeless question on the 6Fattie. I don't have any prior experience with using a tubeless set up. I just set up the new 6Fattie tubeless. Is there any reason I should carry around a tube in by camelback? I can't think of a situation where I would need it but again, I have no experience running a tubeless setup. I don't want to carry it if I'm never gonna use it. Thanks


Always carry a tube just in case. You might cut a side wall or something.


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## g-bike (Jun 1, 2006)

The most recent upgrade to my Expert 6Fattie....


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Update after 2 weeks and some change of riding the 6 fattie. Before I pull the trigger on the 6 Fattie I took my first true first dream bike for a ride today an Ibis Mojo HD and wow did the 6 fattie make it feel sketchy as hell. I have ridden my Mojo HD since 2011 and have put on thousands of miles in that time. Over the years I have ridden many other bikes but nothing ever felt better than my HD and now I can't imagine riding it anymore.

The whole ride I felt like I was riding on top of the rocks like they were marbles instead of the sure footed planted feeling of the 6 fattie. The trail no longer felt smooth and I felt like every rock and root went straight up my arms, it was amazing how smooth the 6 fattie makes the same trail feel. The whole ride I felt like i was on the edge of grip and was having to pick lines again based on where the best grip was. My HD is 160 mm both front and back and yet the 6 fattie feels like it has more travel even though it doesn't.

I am now more sure than ever that the bike is fantastic and not just because it's a new bike and different. From trail riding, to climbing, to jumping the 6 fattie is just so much more fun and confident.

Hope this little review helps others at least get out there and give it an honest shot.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

+1 on what Murchman said. After a few weeks of riding the 6Fattie I am more and more impressed each time I ride it. BUT, having said that, it took me time to get to that point and I'm still not done experimenting. I'm not sure why, but small changes in things like air pressure, rebound adjustment, seat height ect make a huge difference on this bike. Much more noticeable than any other bike I've had. So if you test one at a shop, plan on spending some time tinkering. Make sure you have access to a pump, and a shock pump. And for what it's worth, I found the "auto


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

it cut me off. Continued here:
I found the "auto-sag" to be useless. It's good in theory but not accurate. It left my rear shock waaaay to soft for my liking. Also, I disliked the stock handlebars a lot. I know you can't change those for a test ride, but a riser bar made a huge difference in handling for me.
So in case it can help anyone, I have mine set up tubeless with 16lbs in the rear tire, 14 lbs in the front tire, 70lbs in the fork, 170lbs in the rear shock, my seatpost set to the #4 hash mark and a 1" riser bar. I'm 6'2" and just over 200lbs geared up. So far that's the best set up I've found.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I just rode mine on the Ouachita Challenge a 60 mile event in Arkansas. A mix of gravel roads, and some sick single track. And crap ton of climbing. 

I am 5'11 185 with a really long inseam. I ran about 90 lbs in fork. I had been running a little less and getting full travel so wanted to stiffen it up a bit. And used auto sag on the rear which I think ends up with about 150 ish lbs in the rear. 

As for tires I ran 16 in the rear and 9 in the front. 

I wasn't in the front half hahah. But I had a lot of fun on the ride. This bike is a blast. I might look into rider bars as well. I considered a shorter crank as others have suggested but didn't want to have to raise the seat any higher as I already struggle with the seat height too high over the stem. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brenick (Aug 1, 2015)

Absolutely gigrob. Set up is VERY important to get the most out of this bike but when you have it dialled it is awesome.
If you are not the sort to want to experiment with tire pressures and suspension settings then this may not be the bike for you.
You are right about the auto sag too. OK as a general guide but I have increased rear shock pressure since setting it with the auto sag. I am on the other end of the size scale (170cm and 65kg) and run 10psi each end in the tires and 65psi fork, 140psi shock. I can't remember my rebound settings off hand.
I have also found it climbs best with the fork in high compression mode and the shock in trail (middle) setting.


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

Murchman said:


> Update after 2 weeks and some change of riding the 6 fattie. Before I pull the trigger on the 6 Fattie I took my first true first dream bike for a ride today an Ibis Mojo HD and wow did the 6 fattie make it feel sketchy as hell. I have ridden my Mojo HD since 2011 and have put on thousands of miles in that time. Over the years I have ridden many other bikes but nothing ever felt better than my HD and now I can't imagine riding it anymore.
> 
> The whole ride I felt like I was riding on top of the rocks like they were marbles instead of the sure footed planted feeling of the 6 fattie. The trail no longer felt smooth and I felt like every rock and root went straight up my arms, it was amazing how smooth the 6 fattie makes the same trail feel. The whole ride I felt like i was on the edge of grip and was having to pick lines again based on where the best grip was. My HD is 160 mm both front and back and yet the 6 fattie feels like it has more travel even though it doesn't.
> 
> ...


Yeah I also have to agree, I went out on a ride on my '16 stumpy and was so disappointed, I prefer my scale plus bike because of how well it grips and im more confident riding it. I wish I waited and bought a 6fattie instead of the stumpy. Im putting the stumpy up for sale and hoping to buy my "Dream bike" 2016 Ibis Mojo 3


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

sml-2727 said:


> Yeah I also have to agree, I went out on a ride on my '16 stumpy and was so disappointed, I prefer my scale plus bike because of how well it grips and im more confident riding it. I wish I waited and bought a 6fattie instead of the stumpy. Im putting the stumpy up for sale and hoping to buy my "Dream bike" 2016 Ibis Mojo 3


Buyer's remorse is a bummer. I wondered if I should've waited for the '17 SJ FSR SWorks 6F because I was assuming it would have the newer wider carbon rims, and wondered if it would have carbon stays and SRAM Eagle drivetrain, but after one test ride of the '16 6F, I decided I couldn't wait. This bike is so much fun, and even if they do any/all of those upgrades, I won't feel bad...maybe


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

majr said:


> The headsets Specialized uses are the worst. My lower will separate and make a racket. And they are poorly sealed and will rust/corrode very quickly.


I demoed 4 2016 carbon Specialized bikes (Enduros and Stumpys incl 6F). 3 of the headsets made ticking / creaking noises. Great bikes (loved the Stumpy 6F and 29er), but a near new $8,000 bike with a creaking headset? Don't think so. It would irritate the hell out of me after spending that amount of coin.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*headset ghosts?*



enuenu said:


> I demoed 4 2016 carbon Specialized bikes (Enduros and Stumpys incl 6F). 3 of the headsets made ticking / creaking noises. Great bikes (loved the Stumpy 6F and 29er), but a near new $8,000 bike with a creaking headset? Don't think so. It would irritate the hell out of me after spending that amount of coin.


That's strange. Mrs. levity and I have owned over a dozen Specialized bikes (road and mtn, new and used, high-end and mid-level) and have never had a problem with a headset. In many cases I've removed and replaced forks for various reasons and inspected the headset bearings - all good. Apropos of the current complaints, we've each recently had Fuse Pros and Stumpy Comp Carbon 6Fatties with no issues.

One thing I always do before much riding is to adjust the stem height or change the stem, and this necessitates loosening and then retightening the stem binder bolt to preload the headset bearings. Too tight and you'll wear the bearings, too loose and the fork will wobble fore/aft. (I should also probably check to make sure there's enough grease in the headset on new bikes, but I don't routinely do that.) Maybe _someone_ is not tightening the steerer tube bolt correctly? If I found that the headset on a bike at a shop was having issues I'd talk to the mechanic. If I found multiple bikes with headset problems at a shop I wouldn't blame the manufacturer, I'd look for a new shop!

Here's a link to some reading that may be helpful. It describes how to tighten the binder bolt on threadless headsets to adjust play.

Threadless Headset Service | Park Tool


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

levity said:


> That's strange. Mrs. levity and I have owned over a dozen Specialized bikes (road and mtn, new and used, high-end and mid-level) and have never had a problem with a headset. In many cases I've removed and replaced forks for various reasons and inspected the headset bearings - all good. Apropos of the current complaints, we've each recently had Fuse Pros and Stumpy Comp Carbon 6Fatties with no issues.
> 
> One thing I always do before much riding is to adjust the stem height or change the stem, and this necessitates loosening and then retightening the stem binder bolt to preload the headset bearings. Too tight and you'll wear the bearings, too loose and the fork will wobble fore/aft. (I should also probably check to make sure there's enough grease in the headset on new bikes, but I don't routinely do that.) Maybe _someone_ is not tightening the steerer tube bolt correctly? If I found that the headset on a bike at a shop was having issues I'd talk to the mechanic. If I found multiple bikes with headset problems at a shop I wouldn't blame the manufacturer, I'd look for a new shop!
> 
> ...


Great info, thanks. It wasn't huge creaks, just a minor "tick, tick" noises mostly. Still noticeable though.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

enuenu said:


> I demoed 4 2016 carbon Specialized bikes (Enduros and Stumpys incl 6F). 3 of the headsets made ticking / creaking noises. Great bikes (loved the Stumpy 6F and 29er), but a near new $8,000 bike with a creaking headset? Don't think so. It would irritate the hell out of me after spending that amount of coin.


How do you know it wasn't the fork crown?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Just FYI, those demo bikes are beat to he11 by tons of folks on the demo circuit. Don't judge by the creaks/clicks. Almost as bad a judging a DH rental bike at a bike/lift park

I demo'd a 2007 Enduro SL back in 2007. It was very creaky/clicky. I wound up buying one (Carbon s-works) new and it was my one MTB until earlier this year when I picked up a 6Fattie. So I used it relatively hard for 8 years and never had a creak/click out of it. it's flawless to this day. relatively hard means - Northstar @Tahoe, Cannel train and plunge, MBO, UC Demo forrest, and countless trips down Rocky Ridge/Stiles which is my local back-door trail at Santa Teresa County park. It's taken plenty of abuse. In my experience. Clicks and creaks are usually from improperly greased or assembly-lubed carbon parts. Stems, bars, seat rails, etc.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Drevil said:


> Buyer's remorse is a bummer. I wondered if I should've waited for the '17 SJ FSR SWorks 6F because I was assuming it would have the newer wider carbon rims, and wondered if it would have carbon stays and SRAM Eagle drivetrain, but after one test ride of the '16 6F, I decided I couldn't wait. This bike is so much fun, and even if they do any/all of those upgrades, I won't feel bad...maybe


I had the same dilemma when thinking about my s-works 6Fattie. "Would 2017 come with the carbon rear stays and 38-mm wide rims?" Maybe... but I enjoyed my 2007 Enduro SL for 8 years and never thought twice about that Aluminum rear triangle.

But after riding one.... none of that mattered. 3.0 tires @15 PSI are a game changer. I was totally blown away by how fun it was and how easily it pedaled and how it took the edge off of rocky/rooty harshness unlike any suspension can do. If I had the 38mm wide rims, I imagine rolling resistance would take a hit. I'd rather have less rolling resistance.

This past Sunday, after two loops of Flow trail @demo, I was pinning it so hard that my whole body hurt from all of the g-forces that I could put on it. Arms, shoulders, hands, everything. I had no strength left after those two loops. That bike on that trail put a real hurt on me and a real smile on my face... Carbon rear triangle or not.


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## enuenu (Jul 8, 2015)

artnshel said:


> How do you know it wasn't the fork crown?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


I don't.

I'm no expert but thought a bike that price would be silent and smooth like a sewing machine. Maybe I expect too much? Maybe poor maintenance/setup? Maybe bike had been flogged senseless?


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

XT brakes stop better than xtr but are heavier. I bout the comp and upgraded my wheels with carbon 50MM $1000 + stem $80 + brakes $200 + raceface cranks 1/2 the weight of XX1 and $380.00 + carbon bars $120.00 + Schwalbe tires $80.00. Better than sworks. I can ride with 10psi all day with no problems.



Murchman said:


> So I am trying to decide between the S-Works and the Expert. Is XX1 and Carbon wheels really worth the 2k price difference?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

mydogkoal said:


> XT brakes stop better than xtr but are heavier. I bout the comp and upgraded my wheels with carbon 50MM $1000 + stem $80 + brakes $200 + raceface cranks 1/2 the weight of XX1 and $380.00 + carbon bars $120.00 + Schwalbe tires $80.00. Better than sworks. I can ride with 10psi all day with no problems.


I also thought about doing this, i.e., buying a lower model, or even the frame, then building it up. I've been MTBing since '91, worked in 3 different bike shops, and have usually built my bikes from the frame up. That said, I got a really good deal through a team shop sponsorship, and buying the completely built S-Works model from the start saved me a lot of time and headache. If I didn't get the deal, I might have done the same as 'koal.

Even though I bought the good stuff, I couldn't resist doing a few changes. So far I've swapped out the grips to ESI FIT XC grips because the stock ones were too hard/thin and hurt my hands, and I put on a shorter and flat 50mm Thomson stem. I also swapped the rear tire to a Purgatory. All these have made a noticeable difference to me, and I should be good for a while 

One thing that I found strange is that the S-Works 6F frame is supposed to be 9m, but the label on my frame clearly says 11m. I'm not complaining, and not really sure how better it is than 9m, but is that a running change, or something else beside the frame? Any other S-Works owners see the same? (I got mine ~2 weeks ago.)

EDIT: I called Specialized's customer support, and Thomas said that the site is a misprint, and it should be the 11m.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Murchman said:


> So I am trying to decide between the S-Works and the Expert. Is XX1 and Carbon wheels really worth the 2k price difference?


Honestly, I'd rather have the Expert with the 38mm ID carbon wheels. Sell the Roval Traverse regulars that come with the Expert for a few hundred or something.


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## Hinty (Apr 6, 2016)

*Ready to roll*

Just want to say thanks to all who have posted in this thread. Great thoughts and advice. Brought home a 6fattie last night. It's sitting in the basement with exactly zero miles on it. Woke up to snow, cold and had to go to work. It's just killing me :madman:


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Hinty said:


> ...Woke up to snow, cold and had to go to work. It's just killing me :madman:


Quit your job and move to California 

January









February









March









April


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I also bought a 160mm fork kit for $35.00 from Fox. The most noticeable improvements that I have made are. 1) 50MM carbon rims. night and day difference. 2) schwalbe nobby nic tires 3) 10MM added to the front fork. changes the HT angle to 66.2 and raised my BB to 13.25. Handles better. I was considering buying a downhill park bike for Big Bear and Mammoth but now my bike is the best bike I have ever ridden.



Drevil said:


> I also thought about doing this, i.e., buying a lower model, or even the frame, then building it up. I've been MTBing since '91, worked in 3 different bike shops, and have usually built my bikes from the frame up. That said, I got a really good deal through a team shop sponsorship, and buying the completely built S-Works model from the start saved me a lot of time and headache. If I didn't get the deal, I might have done the same as 'koal.
> 
> Even though I bought the good stuff, I couldn't resist doing a few changes. So far I've swapped out the grips to ESI FIT XC grips because the stock ones were too hard/thin and hurt my hands, and I put on a shorter and flat 50mm Thomson stem. I also swapped the rear tire to a Purgatory. All these have made a noticeable difference to me, and I should be good for a while
> 
> ...


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## Dirt n Dust (Mar 21, 2014)

Almost came home with a SJ 6Fattie Comp yesterday. The LBS has them on sale right now and it was so tempting (so was the Enduro 29er for $1,200 off!). Especially when the employee there says he rides all the local trails on it and won't be going back to any other format. He has set new PRs on almost every segment too. I know what I'll be saving my pennies for as my future trail bike...unless the 2017 model comes out before that...


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## sml-2727 (Nov 16, 2013)

Dirt n Dust said:


> Almost came home with a SJ 6Fattie Comp yesterday. The LBS has them on sale right now and it was so tempting (so was the Enduro 29er for $1,200 off!). Especially when the employee there says he rides all the local trails on it and won't be going back to any other format. He has set new PRs on almost every segment too. I know what I'll be saving my pennies for as my future trail bike...unless the 2017 model comes out before that...


Save your pennies, there is going to be a lot of new bikes coming out soon. I know Yeti has an announcement coming out soon on a new bike, most people are guessing its going to be a plus bike.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Mine and a buddy's, between a Camber and Rumor, at Douthat State Park in Virginia.


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## g-bike (Jun 1, 2006)

I have an S-Works Stumpy FSR 2016 29er and a S-Works Epic World Cup, just added an Expert Carbon Stumpy 6Fattie to the mix and love it, love it!!!. Probably the most fun bike I have. I say if you can afford the bike, buy it today and ride it as tomorrow is not guaranteed, this I have learned from experience having lost 2 family members in under a year. If your on the fence about the 6fattie rent a demo as most bike shops will credit the cost towards a new bike purchase. Of course this is just my opinion.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,

May I know what other brands have the +3mm chainring we are using? Thinking of changing my 28t to a 30t chainring. Thanks.


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## Hinty (Apr 6, 2016)

The new 6fattie made inaugural run today...8 miles of single track. Smiles per miles simply off the chart!!! What a joy to ride.


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## g-bike (Jun 1, 2006)

That's a tough question as not all manufactures are up and running with Boost Compatible spacing. If you are interested in staying with your current crankset I would email wolf tooth and see what they have to offer, a quick email to Sram might also help. Hope it works out for you.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Revver, There are a lot of boost direct mount chain rings. Every company seems to have their own idea of what the best chain line is so just check their websites, they clearly say what the off set is. Easiest thing is just go with the Sram X-sync, you can usually find them on sale for same price as others.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I pulled the trigger on the S-Works yesterday and did my first ride that same day. First thing is the XL setup tubeless with mallet DH race pedals weights in at 28.91lbs vs the expert setup the same way at 30.98lbs.Love having the multi-tool on the frame it made making setup changes so easy. 

Can't say I noticed a difference in shifting between the two bikes and the brakes were in the same boat. The wheels have a different sound to them and are a bit more responsive. The bike overall felt lighter which it is but it also felt stiffer in a good way, I can't really explain it but it has a really good feel that I enjoy. FYI the frame is M11 versus the M9 on the expert even though the website shows they are both M9.

Now the big question is was it worth the price difference for a 2lb weight savings and a bit better feel to the bike? For me I have no regrets it is a great package that I don't have to worry about what to upgrade on it so I am happy going S-Works.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

revver said:


> ...Thinking of changing my 28t to a 30t chainring. Thanks.


I have a SRAM X-sync 30t chainring that I took off my Fuse as soon as I brought it home. I'll trade if for your 28t (assuming it's in good shape) or sell it to you. Shoot me a PM with your offer.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Ok. So. I have a 6fattie and love it. But always looking for better. The mojo 3 looks freaking sweeeet! Easy to see how it is different from 6fattie. 

But just looked at the SC Hightower. It looks almost same geo wise as 6fsttie? Other than suspension design, is there a difference I am missing with the SC version?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

One difference is that you can not run tires that are 2.9" wide or wider on the back of the Hightower due to close tolerances with the chain stays. I took the rear wheel from my Fuse with a 3.0 Ground Control tire on the 38mm internal rim (2.9" measured width) into my LBS and mounted it on a Hightower. We could could squeeze it in, but we coull not get a 3mm hex key between the tire and the chain stay. That's too close for real world riding, so you'll be limited to tires 2.8" wide or less (as supplied). Of course, this may be fine for your riding conditions and style.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Loving my s-works fattie. I'm due for new tires and want to try going with 2.8 nobby nics. I want to try the 2.8 tires to make the bike more flickable and save more weight. I know the bike has a low bottom bracket already. Wondering if it will lower the bike too much. I can also try a 3.0 in front and a 2.8 rear. Has anyone tried this and do u guys think it will workout ok?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

I don't think the 6Fattie's best attributes are related to being "flickable" (more like "plowable"), but this video shows that the right rider can make it seem so:






Smaller tires might help a little, but I find the bottom bracket to be as low as I'd want it.


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

I'm Jim, and I'm a fataholic. I'm in the 50+ crowd, and after a couple months and 100 miles riding a new Spec Sj FSR 6F Comp, I'm still thinking it's one of the funnest bikes I've ridden. It's kind of a slug going up hill (good on the cardio), but a 3-4 mile grind is do-able (new Tiger Mt. Master Link climb trail is do-able), but it climbs like a goat over roots and rocks. I have to watch the pedal strikes more than I did on my old Rockhopper, but ratcheting is no problem. Downhill is much more fun than my RH and so far, no regrets. And if the expert came in a color other than white, I'd have probably gone that way, but for the extra $1K, I can skip a little wine and burger and just lose the 2 pounds.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Hi jim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

jredling said:


> Loving my s-works fattie. I'm due for new tires and want to try going with 2.8 nobby nics. I want to try the 2.8 tires to make the bike more flickable and save more weight. I know the bike has a low bottom bracket already. Wondering if it will lower the bike too much. I can also try a 3.0 in front and a 2.8 rear. Has anyone tried this and do u guys think it will workout ok?


It will lower the BB about 0.25 inches. I may go this route, but not for a Nobby Nic. I want softer rubber and a burlier tread. I'm sure Maxxis will have something by the time I've worn down the stock tires. When I make the switch, however, I'll go Majr's route with the eccentric BB and perhaps shorter cranks.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Nice video, damn I love this bike.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Built up a 29er wheelset with DT boost hubs, asymmetric carbon rims with 29mm inner width, Hans Dampf 2.35 front 27psi n the new Nobby Nic 2.35 rear 28psi. Ride condition was slightly wet, rocks n roots, up n down kind of trail. 

Less effort moving off in smallest cog as compared to the 3" tires but once up to speed, not really noticeable. I find the rollover similar but the plus tyres gives more traction instead of the sliding around of the 29er tyres. The cornering, climbing n descend did not have significant advantages over the plus tyres, in fact I found the lighter 29 wheels did not make the ride any faster and importantly, fun....

Maybe due to the very rigid 29 wheels I built, there are lots of chattering, bike was going everywhere, I need to slow down the rebound to gain some control. The only place I actually felt it was better than the plus tyres were on flat up slopes n the commute to n fro from the trail head.

Changing back to the plus tyres for the coming rides this weekend.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Finally got a flat last night - from a minor puncture. Didn't think the slow weep of Stan's amounted to much volume, but when I pulled the tire to pop in the tube, there was only about an ounce left. Going to see if I can get the GC warranted and replaced with a Purgatory.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

phride said:


> Finally got a flat last night - from a minor puncture. Didn't think the slow weep of Stan's amounted to much volume, but when I pulled the tire to pop in the tube, there was only about an ounce left. Going to see if I can get the GC warranted and replaced with a Purgatory.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I definitely like the Purgs front and back here. Depending on how long , hard and at what pressure, sometimes I'd be surprised to have even an oz left in there! THis is my first bike set up tubeless so I have no reference but I am adding about 4oz to each tire about every couple months. When I had the GC on back it was weeping out the sidewall and I would need to add weekly. Good chance they will switch it for you but if not its well worth the $50 to switch....IMHO. Wish you luck!

edit: The Purgs have not had any issues with "weeping" whatsoever.......so far


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

crazyoldfool said:


> I definitely like the Purgs front and back here. Depending on how long , hard and at what pressure, sometimes I'd be surprised to have even an oz left in there! THis is my first bike set up tubeless so I have no reference but I am adding about 4oz to each tire about every couple months. When I had the GC on back it was weeping out the sidewall and I would need to add weekly. Good chance they will switch it for you but if not its well worth the $50 to switch....IMHO. Wish you luck!
> 
> edit: The Purgs have not had any issues with "weeping" whatsoever.......so far


Same here. I bought a pair of GCs back in October (in the box, not on the bike), and they constantly wept, which in turn, made me weep  The shop swapped them out for a pair of Purgs, and they don't weep. I took off the GC on the rear of my SJ and put on the Purg.

The Purgs aren't that much heavier (1025gms vs 952gms), but they are better tires all around in my opinion.

Since we got onto the topic of tires, what other ones have y'all tried on the SJ 6F? Happy, or prefer the Specialized tires instead?

I have a pair of Panaracer Fat B Nimble 27.5 x 3.5". They are crazy light for that size, but the whole casing seems paper thin and not very durable. Because of that, there seemed to be a really tiny window of acceptable pressure. Too high and you bounced around too much and didn't get great traction, too little and you get a lot of rim strikes.

I admit to having never run it on the SJ, but on my fat bike, I used them tubeless on 50mm carbon rims. I might try it if I'm bored and have some time, but I think they'll be even worse on 30mm rims of the SJ.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Drevil said:


> Same here. I bought a pair of GCs back in October (in the box, not on the bike), and they constantly wept, which in turn, made me weep  The shop swapped them out for a pair of Purgs, and they don't weep. I took off the GC on the rear of my SJ and put on the Purg.
> 
> The Purgs aren't that much heavier (1025gms vs 952gms), but they are better tires all around in my opinion.
> 
> ...


Cant help you much there as Ive only run the GC's and Purgs but no rim strikes here with the 29ID rims.......yet. No rock gardens to speak of though in Florida, so..... I do have a friend from the LBS that runs Scrappers (45 ID) with Dirt Wizard 3.0 and loves the hell out of it. I might go that way once I come to a point that I need new rims. For now, 3.0 Purgs f/b suit me well!!Send the 50mm carbons over here when you are done with them! LOL!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

revver said:


> Built up a 29er wheelset with DT boost hubs, asymmetric carbon rims with 29mm inner width, Hans Dampf 2.35 front 27psi n the new Nobby Nic 2.35 rear 28psi. Ride condition was slightly wet, rocks n roots, up n down kind of trail.
> 
> Less effort moving off in smallest cog as compared to the 3" tires but once up to speed, not really noticeable. I find the rollover similar but the plus tyres gives more traction instead of the sliding around of the 29er tyres. The cornering, climbing n descend did not have significant advantages over the plus tyres, in fact I found the lighter 29 wheels did not make the ride any faster and importantly, fun....
> 
> ...


Thanks revver for sharing your experience on a 29er wheelset. It nice to see other people weighing in on it. My post in #802 of this thread outlines a different story for myself if others are just tuning in to this page.

I agree with you that there is slightly more chatter with the 29x2.3-2.4 tire size, probably due to volume. I see you are running much higher psi (27/28psi) than myself. On my Kappius 40mm ID rims with Ardent 29x2.4's I am running (16/17psi) which is only slightly higher than my 27.5x3.0 set up (12/13psi). Again, the most notable ride characteristic of the 29er set up for me was the increased BB height. I do enjoy the feeling of a "regular" 29er on some of the trails around my area and not having to worry about ratcheting the pedals as much.

Again, nice to have choices with this bike whether Specialized intended that or not 

John


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

revver said:


> Built up a 29er wheelset with DT boost hubs, asymmetric carbon rims with 29mm inner width, Hans Dampf 2.35 front 27psi n the new Nobby Nic 2.35 rear 28psi. Ride condition was slightly wet, rocks n roots, up n down kind of trail.
> 
> Less effort moving off in smallest cog as compared to the 3" tires but once up to speed, not really noticeable. I find the rollover similar but the plus tyres gives more traction instead of the sliding around of the 29er tyres. The cornering, climbing n descend did not have significant advantages over the plus tyres, in fact I found the lighter 29 wheels did not make the ride any faster and importantly, fun....
> 
> ...


Slightly different situation for me, but similar conclusions. I tried wide rims (29mm internal) and 2.3 tires on my S-Works Camber 29er hoping to get as close to plus size as I could fit in the frame. Even with pressures as low as 18F and 20R the ride did not approach that of the 6Fattie. It was a big improvement over the original narrower rims and tires, but it still felt like I was bouncing around like a ping pong ball compare to the Stumpy. Final answer: sold the Camber.



darkhorse13 said:


> ... I agree with you that there is slightly more chatter with the 29x2.3-2.4 tire size, probably due to volume. I see you are running much higher psi (27/28psi) than myself. On my Kappius 40mm ID rims with Ardent 29x2.4's I am running (16/17psi) which is only slightly higher than my 27.5x3.0 set up (12/13psi). Again, the most notable ride characteristic of the 29er set up for me was the increased BB height. I do enjoy the feeling of a "regular" 29er on some of the trails around my area and not having to worry about ratcheting the pedals as much...


Yes, good points, John. There are times a higher BB would be good. If I think that will be an issue I tend to run the tire pressure a bit higher, 14/16psi. Even at "high pressures" for a plus tire, 18/20, there's a big difference compared to a 2.3x29 tire a similar pressure . As you said, this is likely due to the larger volume allowing the tire to flex more.

I think the higher volume is also a reason the plus tires are surprisingly efficient compared to 29er tires despite the extra weight and drag. The fat tires absorb small bumps and smooth out the terrain, whereas a smaller tire requires movement of the suspension and unsprung weight. The fat-tired bike just moves forward, whereas the wheels and suspension elements of a skinny-tired bike move up and down at the expense of forward momentum. I eventually came to the conclusion that I'd rather be on plus tires at "high pressure" (18/20) than 29er tires at "low" pressure (18/20).


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Darkhorse n Levity,

For infor n sharing, I'm around 66kg riding weight, 6fattie Swat n Spesh Swat bibs helped here w/o pack. Fork at 65psi, Reb 7clicks in from min damping, comp full open with LSC 2clicks in. Shock around 150psi, Reb 7clicks in from min damping, comp full open. I like little bit fast Reb for e pop feel as the plus tyres really dampen the trail. 3" Purg n GC tyres at 14f/15r psi.

Darkhorse, I will take your advise n try a lower psi for the 29 wheels at 26f/27r next time.

Levity, your last paragraph really spelt out how I felt.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Interesting setup. I am 190 in my undies. I run 14 psi in rear, about 8 or 9 in the front. Probably 85 in fork and 160 in shock. 

I think I really like it like this but want to experiment some. To be honest I can never tell a difference when I play with rebound and some of those knobs! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

revver said:


> Hi Darkhorse n Levity,
> 
> For infor n sharing, I'm around 66kg riding weight, 6fattie Swat n Spesh Swat bibs helped here w/o pack. Fork at 65psi, Reb 7clicks in from min damping, comp full open with LSC 2clicks in. Shock around 150psi, Reb 7clicks in from min damping, comp full open. I like little bit fast Reb for e pop feel as the plus tyres really dampen the trail. 3" Purg n GC tyres at 14f/15r psi.
> 
> ...


No problem revver. Might I add that I weigh 170lb suited up (77kg). If you're at 145lb, I would agree that anything over 20psi is too much... granted I don't know your riding style or personal taste.

I've typically ridden all my 29x2.2-2.4 tires (20-23mm ID wheels) at 16-20psi. If you have a chance to play around with psi maybe experiment at 15psi and work your way up. Again, just a suggestion.

As far as fork psi on the Fox 34 27.5+ boost I think I'm running 73psi which might even be too high. Autosag on the rear so I don't know what I'm at. Your fork psi seems to be correct for your weight though.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Derek200 said:


> Interesting setup. I am 190 in my undies. I run 14 psi in rear, about 8 or 9 in the front. Probably 85 in fork and 160 in shock.
> 
> I think I really like it like this but want to experiment some. To be honest I can never tell a difference when I play with rebound and some of those knobs!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I definitely find it difficult to get the feel of the suspension rebound settings with the plus tires. I just default to slightly more dampened rebound than the recommended settings, figuring the tires are completely undamped and eat up much of the small stuff, so I might as well set my shock and fork to manage the big stuff.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*29+ fits! well only one brand*

Hey everyone,
Here's an update from posts #800-#802 in my attempt to run 29+ tires on the 6fattie.

Both the Knard and Chupy will NOT fit the rear of the 6fattie... I've tried.

Very excited to report that I finally mounted a Panaracer FBN 29x3.0 on the rear of the 6fattie... and it fits! I will have pics and details to follow but here's the initial stats

- Kappius KR-29-XCW rim 40mm ID
- tire measures roughly 2.65 inches knob to knob / 2.72 inches at casing @20psi (severely undersized but great for me)
- i can fit a 3mm allen between the crown of tire and chainstay "U" at the bottom bracket
- i have not fully compressed the rear suspension to validate clearance...fingers crossed.

Plan on mounting a 29x3.0 Chupy up front.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

That really gets me wondering again about how a mixed-29x3 front and 27.5x3 rear - would ride, ala Foes Mixer. An experiment I plan on trying in the next year or so...


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I loves my SWorks 



Fountainhead on a Fully by rd, on Flickr


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*29+*

Ok, so here's my 6fattie 29+ rig. So I cheated in the back with a Panaracer FBN 29x3.0 as that tire is severely undersized (2.65 in at knobs, 2.72 in at casing), but the Chupy up front is spot on (3.0 in at knobs)

I haven't ridden it around other than the parking lot. First impression is that it just feels "big". Probably going to feel a little numb in the turns but I'm excited to test the roll over capability. I have no intention of making this combo my go-to set up but I've really enjoyed playing with these phenomenal 29+ Kappius wheels on the 6fattie. I hope everyone has enjoyed the pics along the way 

If I may comment about the Panaracer FBN 29x3.0 tires... I don't think I like them. Yes, I haven't even ridden them yet and I am not impressed. The sidewalls are scary thin and I fear they are going to puncture easily. Upon initial setup, the bead is relatively "loose" on the rim. In fact, when installing them the tire bead seems to sit "tall" relative to the bead hook. I used soapy water and slowly inflated them (not past 20psi) to get them to gradually and evenly seat. As careful as I was, there are still "high" spots on the rim that when you spin them, they seem wobbly. I tried to roll the low sections off the rim to stretch the bead but that didn't help. The Chupy on the other hand is a quality tire. The bead line is spot on around the rim and it seated with a nice pop. The FBN at the low spots has about 3mm of clearance at the chainstay "U" by the BB, and only about 0.5-1mm at the high spots on the tire. I might try to completely re-seat for a 3rd time! Anyway, I'll ride it hard (after fully compressing the suspension to make sure both tires don't contact the frame) and see what happens.

John


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> If I may comment about the Panaracer FBN 29x3.0 tires... I don't think I like them. Yes, I haven't even ridden them yet and I am not impressed. The sidewalls are scary thin and I fear they are going to puncture easily. Upon initial setup, the bead is relatively "loose" on the rim. In fact, when installing them the tire bead seems to sit "tall" relative to the bead hook. I used soapy water and slowly inflated them (not past 20psi) to get them to gradually and evenly seat. As careful as I was, there are still "high" spots on the rim that when you spin them, they seem wobbly. I tried to roll the low sections off the rim to stretch the bead but that didn't help...


I have four of the 26x4.0 (which I mount on 65mm Nextie carbon rims) and two of the 27.5x3.5 (which I mount on 50mm carbon rims), and sometimes if I get lucky and the stars align, I can get 1 or 2 of them to seat properly and roll relatively straight. Most of the time I can't get them to seat so that they roll straight. I just think they aren't made with the same quality standards as other tires. I have four of the 26" ones because the first pair I bought was so wobbly that I called Panaracer and complained and they sent me another pair.

I think the best thing about them is that they're light, roll fast, and are cheap compared to most other tires in their category, but you get what you pay for.

I might have already said it in this thread, but my experience is that they have a narrow pressure window where they work how I like them to work. Slightly too little air and they get squishy and squirmy, and just a little too much and they feel bouncy and you lose the traction that wider tires usually provide.

I also tore the a hole in the tread of one of the 27.5s that was too big to be resealed by the Stans goo, which forced me to walk 3 miles to the car in the dark. The trail wasn't gnar, and I'm not even really sure what caused the hole.

I won't ever buy the FBNs again in any size.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*Drevil*, thank you very much for posting that experience... makes me feel better. Indeed I'll ride the FBN until it gives up. I can't wait for the day when a true to size 29x2.6-2.7 comes to the market.

By the way, killer picture! How did the landing go? I assume just fine for you, but curious how the 6fattie suspension soaked things up?

More pics are fine 

John


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> *Drevil*, thank you very much for posting that experience... makes me feel better. Indeed I'll ride the FBN until it gives up. I can't wait for the day when a true to size 29x2.6-2.7 comes to the market.
> 
> By the way, killer picture! How did the landing go? I assume just fine for you, but curious how the 6fattie suspension soaked things up?
> 
> ...


Thanks Darkhorse. I appreciate your info about your 29er wheelset. It's very helpful. I'm still contemplating whether I want a 29er wheelset also, but I'm enjoying the B+ set at the moment.

I landed fine. Coming from a rigid fat bike that I used to jump around also, landings are unsurprisingly more comfortable and controlled. I think the fatter B+ tires also give me a level of confidence (via traction and control) that I'm not sure I'd have if I was rolling on "skinny tires"  I cleaned this log ride a few times on my first attempt. (Vid of my buds cleaning it also.)


Fountainhead Log Ride by rd, on Flickr


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

darkhorse13 said:


> ... More pics are fine


Agreed, there's been a shortage of pics showing the fun, so here are a few
(though nothing as action packed as Drevil's)

Anza Borrego State Park (Feb. & March)




























Death Valley (March)


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## Nstreit408 (Dec 2, 2015)

New toy:thumbsup:


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil, your riding crew looks like a blast! Plus the trails are awesome!

I could spend all day in your photo album... thanks again!


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*GC worn down*

So after 5 months on the 6f my rear ground controls are wearing down, and climbing is suffering. since its time for a replacement, curious to hear thoughts on going with purges in the back.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Jpcannavo said:


> So after 5 months on the 6f my rear ground controls are wearing down, and climbing is suffering. since its time for a replacement, curious to hear thoughts on going with purges in the back.


I prefer the Purgs over the Ground Controls on the front and back. Sure it rolls a little slower, but generally, traction is more important to me than rolling resistance. I'm not a racer, and if there is a harder line, I'll usually take it


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

F6 in night mode
Rolling the Stans around on replaced tyres on warranty


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> So after 5 months on the 6f my rear ground controls are wearing down, and climbing is suffering. since its time for a replacement, curious to hear thoughts on going with purges in the back.


Purgs front and back....hands down. At least until a more aggressive 3.0 comes available! LOL!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I have been running Nobby Nic front with Purg rear. Husband runs Purg front and rear.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

crazyoldfool said:


> Purgs front and back....hands down. At least until a more aggressive 3.0 comes available! LOL!


You mean, like, the Dirt Wizard 3.0?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

majr said:


> You mean, like, the Dirt Wizard 3.0?


I have heard them brought up. I have talked to two folks that said the Wizards would work better with a wider rim (im running the 29ID/ Tubeless) Do you have any input on this and do you know if the sidewalls are very sturdy?

Those were definitely on my wishlist but was waiting to go to a 45 or 50mm rim.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

crazyoldfool said:


> I have heard them brought up. I have talked to two folks that said the Wizards would work better with a wider rim (im running the 29ID/ Tubeless) Do you have any input on this and do you know if the sidewalls are very sturdy?
> 
> Those were definitely on my wishlist but was waiting to go to a 45 or 50mm rim.


I'm running them F&R on 45mm internal carbon rims on a 6fatty comp.

They are fantastic for my type of rocky riding. Blow the GC, Purgatory, and Bridger out of the water in terms of grip and durability. At the expense of weight, and rolling resistance, of course.

1180g through 1280g on my scale. 48a single compound rubber. The sidewalls are very sturdy. I'm quite abusive on sidewalls and tread punctures on the rocks. None in ~800 miles on DWs. Bridger punctured in a few rides. Specialized tires made it a little farther, but were shot with multiple plugs within a few weeks.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Jpcannavo said:


> So after 5 months on the 6f my rear ground controls are wearing down, and climbing is suffering. since its time for a replacement, curious to hear thoughts on going with purges in the back.


Trail Boss 3.0, much stickier and more durable than the Purgs, though durability has a cost: weight. Purgs are okay, not expensive, kinda leaky with TL (sidewall seeps).

AS to the 29+ clearance on the 6Fattie, I'm kinda bummed to see it so tight with a relatively short 29+ tire. I have the same clearance with a Surly Dirt Wizard; 3-4mm, on my Mutz and there's no way I'd ride it on anything with mud or the possibility of picking up rocks.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Nurse Ben said:


> Trail Boss 3.0, much stickier and more durable than the Purgs ...


They are both dual compound with 60a center, and 50a shoulder lugs. Correct?


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I prefer the Purgs over the Ground Controls on the front and back. Sure it rolls a little slower, but generally, traction is more important to me than rolling resistance. I'm not a racer, and if there is a harder line, I'll usually take it


Perhaps one more purg then. So far no issue going tubless on my end, with either Purg or GC.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Running Duro Crux 3.25 front and rear,tried them on a whim and glad I did,amazing traction overall actually roll well and lighter then Trail Boss 3.0 which I had previously ran seamed sluggish in comparison. Been putting some hard miles on them and holding up really well.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

*They Go Up Goodly *

Up a short, steep, tight switchback at Lake Accotink (in Springfield, Virginia).



Lake Accotink Switchback by ricky d, on Flickr


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

techfersure said:


> Running Duro Crux 3.25 front and rear,tried them on a whim and glad I did,amazing traction overall actually roll well and lighter then Trail Boss 3.0 which I had previously ran seamed sluggish in comparison. Been putting some hard miles on them and holding up really well.


Hey there,
Do you have any real world specs on this tire? Width at knobs or casing? (what rim size for reference) or Weight?

Thanks!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

techfersure said:


> Running Duro Crux 3.25 front and rear,tried them on a whim and glad I did,amazing traction overall actually roll well and lighter then Trail Boss 3.0 which I had previously ran seamed sluggish in comparison. Been putting some hard miles on them and holding up really well.


On the stock 29mm (inner) rims, or something wider?


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Durotire.com for info. On Scrapper rims tubeless,easy to inflate.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

techfersure said:


> Durotire.com for info. On Scrapper rims tubeless,easy to inflate.


Thanks for the link but I was hoping for your personal info on them. Many times a website or manufacturer specs are a far cry from what actual figures turn out to be when mounted.

If you have the time to take measurements or pics that would be appreciated, if not we'll understand. With tires, it's a "trust but verify" day and age we live in 

Thanks,
John


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

darkhorse13 said:


> Thanks for the link but I was hoping for your personal info on them. Many times a website or manufacturer specs are a far cry from what actual figures turn out to be when mounted.
> 
> If you have the time to take measurements or pics that would be appreciated, if not we'll understand. With tires, it's a "trust but verify" day and age we live in
> 
> ...


Actual 3.25 width. Best tire I found to date for the rocky,rooty,loam to mud conditions here on East coast Pa trails, rolls better too then the Trail Boss 3.0 on a 2 mile gravity trail I take to the Mtn. Have 150 plus miles on them.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

"On Scrapper rims tubeless,easy to inflate."​
​


So I guess the question is if the stock rims can handle them without to much squirm. They are very positively reviewed on thread 
http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/duro-crux-miner-arrived-994680.html


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

You should hear these tires work,the knobs make a distinctive ripping noise when gripping rocks and logs under load and times at speed on rough turns at speed.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Oval Chainring on the 6Fattie*

There are multiple threads in "Drivetrain" forum describing/debating oval chainrings, but I thought I'd add something here about my experience with an oval ring on the Stumpy plus bike (my Comp Carbon model).

There are several manufacturers that make oval rings with slightly different shapes and clocking. I went with an Absolute Black, 28t direct mount, narrow/wide ring for SRAM boost-148 with a 3mm offset to match the original chainline. The ovality and timing are proprietary, but are given as somewhere between 10.2-14.4% and 110.5 and 116°, respectively

Here's a pic comparing it to the stock X-sync 28t ring. Yep, it's oval!
(an apx. measurement indicates 14.4% ovality)










Both rings are aligned so the drive crank would be to the right at 3 o'clock. You can see that the AB oval ring is already starting to ramp up to simulate a larger ring.

AB states that the 28t oval is similar to having a 26/30t combination. Mrs levity uses a 26t X-sync ring on her Rhyme, so I expected the chain to come close to the right chainstay when the crank was rotated down to position the smaller diameter section on top. These pics show the chainstay clearance with the chain on the 11t cassette cog and the 28t oval ring positioned at its max and min heights.



















The chain drops about ½" (actually 13.5 mm), and the inner link plate just touches the rubber guard on the stay. This is what we found with a 26t round ring on Mrs levity's Rhyme. As we did with her bike, I shaved off about 1/8" of the rubber near the front to minimize any rubbing in high gear.

OK, so how does it pedal? My impressions are based on only 3 rides so far, but I like it. No weird chain noises, no shifting issues, no dropped chains. In general it just feels smoother than the 28t round ring. Not a huge difference, just a slightly smoother sensation, a more even application of power, whether spinning or cranking hard at a lower cadence. It sounds funny, but the oval ring makes the stroke feel more round. It also may be a bit more efficient or easier, but that's difficult to quantify on the trail. In any case it seems great for over 99% of my riding. The only problem I've encountered is trying to climb short difficult sections that require a burst of max power for a pedal stroke or two. Sometimes the "effective" 30t chainring turns out to be too high of a gear, and I just can't turn the cranks. I've stalled and come off with the cranks horizontal, right in the middle of the power stroke! The same sections were also tough with the 28t round ring, but then I would tend to stall or come off with the pedals vertical in the "dead spot" where it's difficult to apply full power. With the oval ring it seems as if you're pedaling about ½ gear higher in the max power phase. This is OK or even better most of the time, but can be a problem when you need a brief spurt of max power in the lowest possible gear to clean a tough section.

Despite the occasional problem with short troublesome steeps, I'm going to stick with the oval ring because of the nice smooth feel if gives to the pedal stroke. Part of the problem could just be technique - knowing exactly when and how to attack with the new "gearing". Maybe this will come with time. Part of it is also undoubtedly strength related, and I hope the muscles do their part in adapting as well. Perhaps it's telling me that it's time to hit the squat machine. The oval should be better than the round ring with its dead spots if I can build the strength up a notch.


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## lebca (Apr 22, 2016)

I noticed a few riders on this thread wearing out the headset rather quickly on the stumpy 6fattie. Mine has worn out now with just 200 miles, easily the quickest I've ever worn a headset out. Three of my friends also on the 6fattie have worn their headsets out in similar timeframes. This makes me think it could be a Specialized frame design issue, or as one person said earlier (paraphrasing) 'Specialized uses terrible quality headsets.'

Anyone have any success warranting the FSA headset?

For reference, my 2012 epic's headset is still going strong after 3000+ miles, previous stumpjumper's headset lasted 3 years before I sold it. Maybe these are anomalies, but 200 miles or less than 6 months seems wrong to me.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Yes, mine was gone, in 3 months. The headset dun seem to last very long on this bike. Any other brands of headset able to fit?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity,
I think you're doing it wrong with oval as I am running (2) rings at once 

Seriously I love these rings! I have been running abosolute black rings on all of my bikes for the last year. I agree with everything you articulated; smoothness, power stroke, no chainline/shifting issues. Overall it's a beautifully machined ring and the narrow/wide retention is great. I have both a 28T (red) and 30T (black) for the 6fattie. Changing them out is super simple with the direct mount. No chain rub for me with the 28T but it's close.

For anyone on the fence I'd recommend to take the plunge. I believe absolute black has a 30-day trial period. Plus the color offerings of these rings are icing on the cake!

John


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*headset ghosts revisited*



lebca said:


> I noticed a few riders on this thread wearing out the headset rather quickly on the stumpy 6fattie. Mine has worn out now with just 200 miles, easily the quickest I've ever worn a headset out. Three of my friends also on the 6fattie have worn their headsets out in similar timeframes. This makes me think it could be a Specialized frame design issue, or as one person said earlier (paraphrasing) 'Specialized uses terrible quality headsets.'...


Hmmm, that issue was raised in this thread a couple of weeks ago, so perhaps there's something to it. Here's how I replied previously (post #864) including a link that may be helpful. A good headset, _properly lubed and adjusted_, should last thousands of miles.



levity said:


> That's strange. Mrs. levity and I have owned over a dozen Specialized bikes (road and mtn, new and used, high-end and mid-level) and have never had a problem with a headset. In many cases I've removed and replaced forks for various reasons and inspected the headset bearings - all good. Apropos of the current complaints, we've each recently had Fuse Pros and Stumpy Comp Carbon 6Fatties with no issues.
> 
> One thing I always do before much riding is to adjust the stem height or change the stem, and this necessitates loosening and then retightening the stem binder bolt to preload the headset bearings. Too tight and you'll wear the bearings, too loose and the fork will wobble fore/aft. (I should also probably check to make sure there's enough grease in the headset on new bikes, but I don't routinely do that.)
> 
> ...


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

darkhorse13 said:


> levity,
> I think you're doing it wrong with oval as I am running (2) rings at once


That's cool, John!  I didn't know you could convert to a 2x11 so easily.
Maybe I'll add an oval 24t.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I have bikes that have close to ten thousand road miles on the headsets. Never replaced a mountain bike headset either although I don't know how many miles I put on them. 


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I just changed my chainring from a 28t to a 30t. The stock ring was a 3mm offset. The ring I just put on is a 0 offset. Will this workout ok. I haven't ridden it yet this way in the trails. Has anyone done this?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

It just moves the front part of the chain outward 3mm, so there is a small effect on chainline. Since the distance between the cassette cogs on an 11 speed is about 3.5mm, your chain will be lined up straight one cog further out (smaller) and will be a bit more curved on the larger cogs. No biggie with the quality of modern chains. Mrs levity uses a zero offset 26t chainring with no issues. It will tend to "autoshift down" a cog more easily if you pedal backwards. One positive - you will gain about 3mm of tire clearance to the chain, so mud can be less of an issue.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

That sounds good, thanks levity.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, 

My front Purg and rear GC are both sweating sealants, with GC sweating more. My LBS has yet to get back to me on Specialized reply on it. I do know the LBS do not have stock on the 3.0 Purg which I like. With the sealant sweatings, I'm not loosing air much though, maybe 1psi over a 2 days period.

Anyone tried the Nobby Nic 2.8 on the 6fattie? Is it going to have a big bb drop? My thoughts are getting the 2.8 Nobby Nic now if my Spesh tires break down or wait for the 2.8 Maxxis Rekon and HRII to come out.

Thanks


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## ishpeming (Feb 23, 2012)

Bash guards on the 6 fatty. What have you used? What works?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

ishpeming said:


> Bash guards on the 6 fatty. What have you used? What works?


I haven't gotten one yet, and I'm thinking less about it. With the dropper post, it's much easier to use body english to get the bike up and avoid rock strikes in the first place.

I asked about 4 weeks ago when I first got my bike, so you may get some ideas from posts #840-846: http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-2.html#post12552056


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## ishpeming (Feb 23, 2012)

Thank you Drevil!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

As for the Specialized tires sweating...

We have had one Ground Control and now one Purg start sweating. Called Specialized and they said they only ones they have had problems with are the original tires that came spec'd on the bikes. They have not had any of the other ones show signs of sweating. Specialized says you can return them directly to specialized and they will send you a new one directly or just take care of it at your local LBS. Give Specialized a call if you have questions. 

As to the Nobby Nic, I run the 3.0 in the front and the purg in the rear. I really like the Purg but at the time only had one and had a Nobby Nic. Really a toss up to me. I do not think I would do the 2.8, just love the 3.0 volume.

Have fun, Jill


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

revver said:


> Anyone tried the Nobby Nic 2.8 on the 6fattie? Is it going to have a big bb drop? My thoughts are getting the 2.8 Nobby Nic now if my Spesh tires break down or wait for the 2.8 Maxxis Rekon and HRII to come out.
> 
> Thanks


i'd be a bit nervous about the 2.8s on the 6fattie, with the low bb and all. Why not find another 3"?


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## lebca (Apr 22, 2016)

Derek200 said:


> I have bikes that have close to ten thousand road miles on the headsets.  Never replaced a mountain bike headset either although I don't know how many miles I put on them.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have too, which is why I'm concerned with so many riders' headsets failing on these 6fatties in less than 4 months of use. It's unlikely we're all doing the same incorrect things to them, if anything incorrect at all.

@levity yes I do take care of my headsets, including taking the fork out and cleaning.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I had the same issue with the sweating. I just replaced them with front and rear purgs. Worked out great. I wanted to try nobby 2.8"s but our bottom bracket is so low I wouldn't feel comfortable going lower. I would maybe try a 2.8 in the rear if that wouldn't lower it too much. Has anyone tried that?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

As for the headset problem, can people chime in on which model they have, just wondering if it is on a certain model or all of them? Are they aluminum frames or carbon? And what did you notice, so I can be on the look out?

Thanks, Jill


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Many many years ago when I worked at a bike shop we sold a lot of bikes. I was 16. And my job was to take apart all headsets and bottom brackets and load them up with campy grease. On higher end bikes, everything was faced and all of that. 
I don't think shops do that anymore. My guess would be an installation problem from the factory??


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

_"so many riders' headsets failing on these 6fatties in less than 4 months of use"_

I see the report by lebca in post #936 stating that his "has worn out now with just 200 miles". The model, or whether it was an alloy or carbon frame, was not given.

How many headset failures have actually occurred?
Has anyone with a problem figured out the cause of their "failure"?
Do we need a poll?

There are 2 Comp Carbon 6Fatties in the levity garage, over 1,000 miles on each, no headset problems.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

An aluminum comp in my garage with 3-400 miles no issues


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Mine is an Expert Carbon. Having it for around 3months. Rode it for average 2 to 3 times a week, in rain or shine. Headset was dry n rusty when taken out, bearings were loose.

Might be the washing as we are having wet conditions for past 2 months and my shabby tightening after testing out 3 stems.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Jredling, I was thinking for the Purg 3.0 as replacement but my LBS have no stock, and don't even know if they are bringing in due to lack of quantity.

The other 3.0 tire that's close in weight n thread pattern is the Nobby Nic 3.0, I did not see other 3.0 tires similar to the Purgs. How much bb height are we dropping with the 2.8 tires?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Is .2" really noticeable?


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Think that's e width of the tire.


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Revver, not sure how much lower the bb would be. Another mod I was thinking of doing was to increase my fork to a 160 mm. This would raise the bb approx 3.5 mm. It would also make the bike around 1/2 a degree slacker. Even better for downhill.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Comp aluminum with a bad headset (and a sworks E29, and a sworks stumpy fsr 29 2012).

Lower bearing separated in two. Upper has the a nice gouge in that aluminum jobbie that goes between the upper bearing and the steerer tube.

Clean and grease will keep it quiet for a few rides, but it gets loud and creaky quickly.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

250 miles on my comp with no creaking. 

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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

495 miles on an aluminum comp and no bearing issues. I did pull the steerer and crank when building the bike and lubed both sets. Headset was a little dry from the factory but didn't notice anything bad, and it's holding up just fine.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

lebca said:


> I have too, which is why I'm concerned with so many riders' headsets failing on these 6fatties in less than 4 months of use. It's unlikely we're all doing the same incorrect things to them, if anything incorrect at all.
> 
> @levity yes I do take care of my headsets, including taking the fork out and cleaning.


Had mine since August, about 2k miles... no hs issues yet. I will keep an eye out though.

Also, if anyone here is leaking Stans... switch to Orange sealant. Been using it also since August (i was an early adopter) and no leaks.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Had mine since August, about 2k miles... no hs issues yet. I will keep an eye out though.
> 
> Also, if anyone here is leaking Stans... switch to Orange sealant. Been using it also since August (i was an early adopter) and no leaks.


Had mine since Sept, running nice and quiet
Spec have just warrantied my tyres this month


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I have around 200 miles on my s-works with no headset issues so far. I took it apart when I first got it to put on my renthal bars and stem. I just love the bike, don't want to ride the other bikes in my stable so far.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

200mi on my Carbon Comp and no creaks at the headset.

I do however have a "creak" that made me think it was the headset. The shop and Specialized rep both had my bike for a full day and determined it was due to the autosag feature of the shock. Within the first tiny <1mm of rebound movement the shock creates a small creaking sound on the rebound stroke. The type of creak that just resonates throughout carbon and you just can't pinpoint. I can replicate this every time by quickly pushing on the top tube directly in front of the seat... like you'd be giving your bike CPR (that quick push down motion). You don't have to push hard, just a rapid push. As soon as the weight of your palms is coming off the frame I can hear a creak or pop. On the trail you'd never hear it but it's enough to piss me off on a quiet morning throwing a leg of the saddle and bouncing for a second to get ready to ride. I found this noise only about a month after owning the bike so the shop and the rep have it documented if it progresses. I hope to get a Rock Shox Monarch Debonair without autosag soon to hopefully put this bed. 

Also, Orange Seal has leaked out the sidewalls of my PG and GC. Not to say Stan's would leak any more or any less but just a call out that Orange Seal is not the "magic elixir" to stop the leakage.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

^^^^^^^
Hmmm, sounds super-related to the thread. I am sure a moderator can make this go away?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

darkhorse13 said:


> ... I do however have a "creak" that made me think it was the headset. The shop and Specialized rep both had my bike for a full day and determined it was due to the autosag feature of the shock. Within the first tiny <1mm of rebound movement the shock creates a small creaking sound on the rebound stroke...


Have they (shop or rep) heard this with any other autosag shocks?

Just checked my bike and mrs levity's (both Comp Carbons like yours) and could not hear any creaks like you describe.

May just be an issue with your shock. Have you tried turning the rebound knob through its entire range to see if that affects it? How about fully deflating the shock and repumping?

Hope ya get it resolved.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity said:


> Have they (shop or rep) heard this with any other autosag shocks?
> 
> Just checked my bike and mrs levity's (both Comp Carbons like yours) and could not hear any creaks like you describe.
> 
> ...


levity,
one of the employees at the LBS had a 2015 Camber Evo and experienced the same thing just not as prominent. they all agree it's definitely the shock. we've adjusted the rebound knob as well as playing with the firm/trail/descent knob... all settings yield the same noise. Good suggestion, I have not fully deflated the shock yet. I will give this a shot as I have been wanting to play with the sag at 20% rather than the 25% default.

it's not affecting performance...yet, thus I've left it on the back burner for now.

i'll post back here if deflating/re-inflating works.

John


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## lebca (Apr 22, 2016)

s-works here. and ditto to jredling, love riding it. Headset is ruff when turning and bearings are shot. Looks good on the inside once fork is removed, but moving it with your finger you definitely feel the ruffness. 

I thought it could be all the rain we're having too, but as I said, I know of at least 8 people in differing climate areas having this issue. My LBS called Specialized and they said they did not know of any issues.

Sort of separate, what does the axel holding the top of the rear shock look like for y'all? Mine looks oxidized (silver color but oxidized).


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> levity,
> one of the employees at the LBS had a 2015 Camber Evo and experienced the same thing just not as prominent. they all agree it's definitely the shock. we've adjusted the rebound knob as well as playing with the firm/trail/descent knob... all settings yield the same noise. Good suggestion, I have not fully deflated the shock yet. I will give this a shot as I have been wanting to play with the sag at 20% rather than the 25% default.
> 
> it's not affecting performance...yet, thus I've left it on the back burner for now.
> ...


You haven't played with the sag setting yet? What kind of bike geek are you?

Truth be told, I keep going between 20 and 30% sag, which is to say that I set the sag around 20-23% and let it lose pressure over the course of several months until it's at 28-30%. There are benefits to each, and I can see how you'd get comfortable in the middle of that range.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Just went for a ride today and noticed that my new rear purgatory is weeping sealant out of the sidewall already. Only one ride on it. Called the lbs and told them, waiting for them to call specialized. Hopefully I'll get a new one that doesn't weep.😥


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Mine weep too nothing to concern yourself about,does not effect performance.


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2016)

buncha weepers :lol:


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> You haven't played with the sag setting yet? What kind of bike geek are you?
> 
> Truth be told, I keep going between 20 and 30% sag, which is to say that I set the sag around 20-23% and let it lose pressure over the course of several months until it's at 28-30%. There are benefits to each, and I can see how you'd get comfortable in the middle of that range.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


phride,
you know my style... buy lots of carbon, make it look pretty, ride it like I stole it then think about how I could be a better rider with what I got 

ummm... yeah, it's definitely been months since I checked either the fork or the shock. my riding style is more ground bound on the flat trails in STL I think I can get away with closer to 20% in the rear... i'm no drevil catching gobs of sweet hangtime. since i am always complaining about pedal strikes too, this might be a good way to shut me up as well.

take care friends!
John


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

darkhorse13 said:


> it's definitely been months since I checked either the fork or the shock. my riding style is more ground bound on the flat trails in STL I think I can get away with closer to 20% in the rear... i'm no drevil catching gobs of sweet hangtime. since i am always complaining about pedal strikes too, this might be a good way to shut me up as well.


If you're on the flatter terrain without air you would benefit from more not less sag. Give 30% a try anyway.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

darkhorse13 said:


> Also, Orange Seal has leaked out the sidewalls of my PG and GC. Not to say Stan's would leak any more or any less but just a call out that Orange Seal is not the "magic elixir" to stop the leakage.


Totally interesting. Good to know


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Is it worth holding out for the 2017 6Fattie? Want to buy but worried new bikes just round the corner.


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Just seen on specialized website that it comes in a GLOSS NEON BLUE/MONSTER GREEN CLEAN for the Comp. No image available though.

Anyone got a pic of one in this colour?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mackerel_Fillet said:


> Just seen on specialized website that it comes in a GLOSS NEON BLUE/MONSTER GREEN CLEAN for the Comp. No image available though.
> 
> Anyone got a pic of one in this colour?


Interesting. I guess we're getting closer to release for the new models. Pics would be nice.


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Is this a new colour?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

It looks like a new color in the 6 Fattie. But the front triangles are swappable so it's maybe a front from a 650 stumpie some other model


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

And this is the Carbon Comp in green.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mackerel_Fillet said:


> And this is the Carbon Comp in green.
> 
> Nice. USA site doesn't show this pic. This one is "GLOSS HYPER GREEN/LIGHT BLUE CLEAN" so kind of wondering what the "GLOSS NEON BLUE/MONSTER GREEN CLEAN" will look like on the alu comp models.
> 
> I'm anxiously awaiting to hear about spec changes for 2017 though.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I don't remember where I read it but thought I read somewhere that there would be less clearance. So perhaps more of s focus on maxing out on a 3 inch tire? Narrower stays to eliminate heel strikes that some report? 

I am looking for a second plus bike so can't wait to see what changes are for 2017 as well


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

bad andy said:


> Mackerel_Fillet said:
> 
> 
> > And this is the Carbon Comp in green.
> ...


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Didn't the bike only hit retail in around September last year? If they do change things do you think there would be anything major, or just minor component spec changes?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

It did just come to market. But really the only thing different is the rear triangle which is aluminum. So there probably isn't any capital required to change how they weld that together. I agree nothing is gonna change on the front triangle and they aren't gonna change those carbon molds for another year I'd guess. 


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Cool.

I'm probably going to go for the aluminium anyway. Not enough benefits to spend the additional $$$$ for the Comp Carbon. It's another thousand just for SWAT & minor weight reduction. I wont notice stiffness (newb).


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'm with you. I bought a comp for "my wife" that I mostly ride. And now am shopping for a bike for me. Haha. I like the plus bike a lot so looking at mojo 3 and some of the other plus options out there. But I like the 6fattie. A price decrease would be nice. I don't see why it's so much more than a 650. 


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## ACLakey (Jul 7, 2012)

I am futilely resisting the 6Fattie!!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Derek200 said:


> I don't see why it's so much more than a 650.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it's the shock, fork, and Sram GX 1x drivetrain that account for the $ difference.

I'm also thinking we'll just see component spec changes... just hoping they're the right ones (wider rims)


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Yeah. Not sure why rear shock needed to be different. 

I like the rims! But I don't know anything. I get the idea of wider but the current rims seem like a win to me!


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

OK, 6'2" - do I go Large or XL?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I'm 6'2 and the XL fit me perfect


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Derek200 said:


> Yeah. Not sure why rear shock needed to be different.
> 
> I like the rims! But I don't know anything. I get the idea of wider but the current rims seem like a win to me!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I found the DPS to be smoother than the CTD, but I only got the 2015 Stumpy out for a day, and the difference in wheels masks a lot when you are doing short term comparisons. Still, I put it down as a real upgrade over the 29er & 650B. The fork is, of course, much nicer than the Revelation, so it seemed a fair deal to me, even with the $600 surcharge.

Given the newer spec on the 6 Fattie, I would expect minimal changes for 2017. I think they wait a year for the plus market to shakeout before they adjust the rim size, let alone modify the frame.

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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Which sucks cause I want to buy a bike now. 


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I predict a move to a narrower chainstay (they designed the bike with 3.5" tires in mind), a 160mm fork (to raise the BB slightly, slacken it slightly), and go to the Roval 38mm rims as standard (just cause the amount of flack they have gotten).


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'd be down with those changes! 


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Anyone upgrade the Fox 34 to 160mm?


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## Hinty (Apr 6, 2016)

Mackerel -- I'm a little over 6 feet and am on a large per the LBS. Nothing to compare to as I didn't try out the XL. My last bike was stretched out vintage '95ish with long stem so this bike feels different. I find myself edging as far back on the seat as possible in the turns and the handling improves. Not sure what that means in terms of bike fit. - Newbie


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Murchman, I'm going up to a 160mm later this week. Should raise the bb 2 or 3 mm. Should also make the bike a little slacker which should make it even better on the dh's. I will let you know how it feels when it's done. If it doesn't feel as good I can always go back to the 150.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

jredling said:


> Murchman, I'm going up to a 160mm later this week. Should raise the bb 2 or 3 mm. Should also make the bike a little slacker which should make it even better on the dh's. I will let you know how it feels when it's done. If it doesn't feel as good I can always go back to the 150.


Are you doing it yourself, jredling? If so, and you have the time and don't mind, could you take a few pics of the process?

I have an S-Works also, and was curious what was involved and about how long it took to do. Any special tools needed?

Thanks!


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

Sorry Drevil I'm not comfortable working on the fork myself. Local shop that I trust is gonna do it. They're also going to service it.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Yup, understood. Let us know how it goes and if you like it!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

How come there is not a similar thread for the Santa Cruz HighTower? Aren't they similar plus bikes?

I'm shopping between these two?

Also how come when I type on this forum like half the letters I typed don't come up? Makes it really difficult.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Suns_PSD said:


> How come there is not a similar thread for the Santa Cruz HighTower? Aren't they similar plus bikes?
> 
> I'm shopping between these two?
> 
> Also how come when I type on this forum like half the letters I typed don't come up? Makes it really difficult.


There's a HUGE Santa Cruz Hightower thread... just not under the plus-bikes forum

http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/santa-cruz-hightower-1001288.html


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Drevil said:


> I haven't gotten one yet, and I'm thinking less about it. With the dropper post, it's much easier to use body english to get the bike up and avoid rock strikes in the first place.
> 
> I asked about 4 weeks ago when I first got my bike, so you may get some ideas from posts #840-846: http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-2.html#post12552056


This is my first dropper post, and it really has changed the way I get over obstacles now. Before, when things were over ~26" high, I'd drag my chainring over them. Since I didn't want to destroy my chainring on the 6Fattie, I forced myself to hop more, and not touch the ring at all. The biggest log I've managed to get over so far on the Stumpy is probably about 30" high? I didn't even scope it out first, and half expected to land on my face. Luckily for me, I didn't, especially because I don't need to get any uglier 

Well, I bought the MRP bashguard anyway because I know there will be days that I'll be tired and lazy, out in the middle of nowhere, and I don't want to chance wrecking my ring. Trails are muddy right now, so I rode around the 'hood with it mounted, and found a fallen tree on which to try it.



Broken Tree by ricky d, on Flickr

Vid:



bashin' broke tree by ricky d, on Flickr

By the third time, I'm comfortable enough to skip the bashguard


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Nice. You made that look easy. I think I'm inspired enough to hurt myself.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I took a token out and went for a night ride. I have never been able to get more than 2/3 travel
Jumped off an 18" retaining wall at the local footy oval. I weigh around 170-175 kitted up. Got through most of the travel. Thanks Levity
I used a good quality 26mm ring spanner to get the cap off


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> Nice. You made that look easy. I think I'm inspired enough to hurt myself.


Agreed, time to go out and attempt something stupid tonight because drevil posted a video 

Off topic and please PM me whomever responds so we don't gum up this thread, but my wife and I are traveling to Asheville NC on Memorial Day weekend... are any of my 6fattie guys/gals local to those parts?

John


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Agreed, time to go out and attempt something stupid tonight because drevil posted a video
> 
> Off topic and please PM me whomever responds so we don't gum up this thread, but my wife and I are traveling to Asheville NC on Memorial Day weekend... are any of my 6fattie guys/gals local to those parts?
> 
> John


I accept no responsibility for anyone getting hurt! Try to vid your attempts, because even crashing is funny (as long as you don't get _seriously_ hurt). 

BTW, I have the same exact plans for that weekend, John :thumbsup:


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## Ride Dirty (May 3, 2016)

*6Fattie*

Firstly ... a thanks to all the 6Fattie and + size wheel bike feedback ... sure made the decision a little easier.

Pulled the trigger on one yesterday!
First ride done and loved it!

Had a couple pedal strikes but will work around that, but coming off a 26' GT Force One it felt sweet all round, acceleration, momentum and roll over was great and certainly has some pop of the little jumps 

Looking forward to putting some miles on it


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Twimby said:


> I used a good quality 26mm ring spanner to get the cap off


I didn't want to mess up the fork with my crappy crescent wrench, so I ordered one of these (the blue one):

http://www.lunarbikes.com/tools.htm


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Drevil said:


> I didn't want to mess up the fork with my crappy crescent wrench, so I ordered one of these (the blue one):
> 
> Lunar Bike Tools


Good move
The edges burr easily. I would recommend the tool if you are going to do more than once or twice


----------



## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Ordered my 6Fattie today. Went for the Carbon Comp as I had a 12% voucher for my LBS so saved a few hundred. Went for the XL. 

Can't wait to get it!


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Anyone upgrade the Fox 34 to 160mm?


 I upgraded my fork to 160mm. It was a $35.00 part from fox. I have less pedal strike and like the position better. I also have 50mm wide carbon rims.


----------



## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

mydogkoal said:


> I upgraded my fork to 160mm. It was a $35.00 part from fox. I have less pedal strike and like the position better. I also have 50mm wide carbon rims.


Could you tell us what part, where to get and if you did it yourself?
Thanks


----------



## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

mydogkoal said:


> I upgraded my fork to 160mm. It was a $35.00 part from fox. I have less pedal strike and like the position better. I also have 50mm wide carbon rims.





Twimby said:


> Could you tell us what part, where to get and if you did it yourself?
> Thanks


...and what rims. If I'm able to sell the ones that came on my S-Works, I'm either going to get the Specialized/Roval 38 carbon, or build up a DT Swiss 240/Light Bicycle carbon rim set. Thanks!


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I called Fox with the serial number of the fork.Needed to put flour on the underside of the crown to read it because its etched in. They gave me the specific part number which I gave to the bike shop. Don't remember the part number but they installed it. I bought a set of wheels from light bicycle. Very pleased. I run the tires at about 13 lbs. I weigh 192. I also got the nobby nic 3.0. Huge improvement.


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Hi all. I started a Facebook page for the 6Fattie. Nice place to share pics etc if you want to.

https://m.facebook.com/6Fattie-Fans-1536438176666007/


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Mackerel_Fillet said:


> Hi all. I started a Facebook page for the 6Fattie. Nice place to share pics etc if you want to.
> 
> https://m.facebook.com/6Fattie-Fans-1536438176666007/


What's wrong with this thread?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Mackerel_Fillet (May 1, 2016)

Nothing, but I don't find it user friendly on phone etc. Facebook much easier to do etc.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I am going to order the upgraded parts from Fox on Monday and will post the part numbers once I have them. I will do a write up on how to make the conversion once i get the parts in and do the install. I figure it can not be anywhere as hard as doing a TALAS overhaul and I have done that a few times.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

Mackerel_Fillet said:


> Nothing, but I don't find it user friendly on phone etc. Facebook much easier to do etc.


May I suggest you have a look at Tapatalk?! Its a free app available for iOS and Android, and offers the desired comfort at writing and editing forum contributions... including pictures:









tapatalk'd from something mobile...


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## Ride Dirty (May 3, 2016)

... ride #2 and 12 Personal records on my local trail ... :thumbsup:


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Just got my Ground Control warrantied for bleeding out its sealant. LBS didn't know anything about the issue yet, but it was no issue. I will be riding Purgatory Controls front and back next time out.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## jredling (Aug 12, 2009)

I just put on two new purgatorys and the back was weeping bad after one ride. Lbs is ordering another one for me.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

*Which Wheelset?*

First world problem:

I might have sold the wheelset that came on my bike, and I need to get a replacement wheelset if it finalizes. Which would you rather get?

Roval Traverse 38 SL Fattie 650b 148
Build your own, using DT Swiss 240 Boost rear & front, Light Bicycle (45mm internal) rims, and Sapim race spokes.

I've built several dozen wheels (including 6 with carbon rims), so I know my way around a truing stand. Also, consider that with my discount, both wheelsets may end up costing about the same. I'll be saving time and effort with the Roval wheelset, but end up with a sorta funky hubset (24h and 28h). My concern with the DT Swiss wheelset is that the rims might be _too_ wide, so I was also considering a rim that wasn't as wide, such as the Nextie Crocodile 42mm.

I like the Purgs, so will stick with them for now.

I'd love to hear anyone's opinion, especially those that have owned or have experience with the items mentioned above. Thanks!


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## g-bike (Jun 1, 2006)

*go with the Roval 38's if you can source them...*

I upgraded my 6Fattie Expert with a pair of Roval 38mm's, but they were super hard to sourse as Specialized was out of stock and kept pushing back the availability date. I ended up having to buy a pair from the owner of my local Specialized Shop. I have never looked back since installing the wheels, they ride way better then the stock wheels and have plenty of clearance. If you can find them I say go 38's, I too was considering the Light-Bicycle option but waiting for the rims from China and then sourcing the DT Swiss Boost Hubs which at the time were also not released yet was becoming a little too frustrating... Either way you will be stoked to be out on your 6Fattie!!!!



Drevil said:


> First world problem:
> 
> I might have sold the wheelset that came on my bike, and I need to get a replacement wheelset if it finalizes. Which would you rather get?
> 
> ...


----------



## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> First world problem:
> 
> I might have sold the wheelset that came on my bike, and I need to get a replacement wheelset if it finalizes. Which would you rather get?
> 
> ...


Hey Drevil,
I personally like the SL38's for the following reasons...
1) I've owned/own 4 pairs of Roval wheels and never once had an issue with rim quality/strength. The hookless beads are strong and have taken rim strikes with ease when I've been under-pressured in the tires. The carbon finish and aesthetics are also very pleasing and durable
2) The tubeless plug system for the spoke holes is simple and fuss-free.
3) DT Swiss 350 hubs are bombproof (although not as light as the 240's) and comes with the 54T star for oh-so sweet quick engagement
4) Overall wheelset weight is lower than you might be able to build on your own... plus you'd get a warranty thru Roval.
5) Most importantly, I really think Spesh got it right with the 38mm ID. 38mm-40mm seems spot on for 3.0's. I honestly think that anything over 40mm ID is getting too wide for a 3.0. You'll notice a dramatic improvement over the rolling stock alloy's immediately.

I agree that the 24/28H hub choice is the one reservation about these wheels. Doesn't leave you much room to re-purpose these hubs or rims for a future build... unless you know of a custom rim company.

Take my advice as you will 

John


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

Light bicycle warrantied my front rim when I cracked it in a crash. They have awesome customer service and carbon is a lot lighter than alloy. I have had both and I can tell you that the wider 50mm rims with low air pressure really grip well and I can go through the chunkyist of trails and I don't even get off of my seat. 


Drevil said:


> First world problem:
> 
> I might have sold the wheelset that came on my bike, and I need to get a replacement wheelset if it finalizes. Which would you rather get?
> 
> ...


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Fox 34 Air Spring Part number to go from 150mm travel to 160mm travel

820-02-366-Kit $35

2016 32mm/34mm FLOAT Internally Adjusting Fork Travel | Bike Help Center | FOX


----------



## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*Purg in back*



phride said:


> Just got my Ground Control warrantied for bleeding out its sealant. LBS didn't know anything about the issue yet, but it was no issue. I will be riding Purgatory Controls front and back next time out.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Just went with purges in back. running tubless with no issues. I am finding no downside, and my climbing is now the way I like it: power plant limited (me) as opposed to traction limited, which was more the case with ground controls


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

I am thinking about changing my bike's shox with a more enduro style one. What options do I have ?

here's my bike
https://www.specialized.com/it/it/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-6fattie/107080


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

You have to go custom since the rear shock uses an odd size. Honestly I haven't found the rear shock lacking and I am coming off a Cane Creek Double barrel Air on my Ibis Mojo HD. The larger tires change the whole way the bike reacts and as tires have no way to control the damping so not sure what else you could want out of the rear shock.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

g-bike said:


> I upgraded my 6Fattie Expert with a pair of Roval 38mm's, but they were super hard to sourse as Specialized was out of stock and kept pushing back the availability date. I ended up having to buy a pair from the owner of my local Specialized Shop. I have never looked back since installing the wheels, they ride way better then the stock wheels and have plenty of clearance. If you can find them I say go 38's, I too was considering the Light-Bicycle option but waiting for the rims from China and then sourcing the DT Swiss Boost Hubs which at the time were also not released yet was becoming a little too frustrating... Either way you will be stoked to be out on your 6Fattie!!!!


Thanks G. I was able to sell the stock carbon wheelset to a friend, and just put in the order for the Roval SL38.



darkhorse13 said:


> Hey Drevil,
> I personally like the SL38's for the following reasons...
> 1) I've owned/own 4 pairs of Roval wheels and never once had an issue with rim quality/strength. The hookless beads are strong and have taken rim strikes with ease when I've been under-pressured in the tires. The carbon finish and aesthetics are also very pleasing and durable
> 2) The tubeless plug system for the spoke holes is simple and fuss-free.
> ...


I'm taking your advice and holding you to it! These wheels better last 4eva.  I decided I didn't want to wait for all the components to come in, and since Specialized had the wheels in stock, I just plunged for the Rovals. I'm not sure if orange stickers were an option, but if not, now I can leave it stealth/unstickered.



mydogkoal said:


> Light bicycle warrantied my front rim when I cracked it in a crash. They have awesome customer service and carbon is a lot lighter than alloy. I have had both and I can tell you that the wider 50mm rims with low air pressure really grip well and I can go through the chunkyist of trails and I don't even get off of my seat.


After I started using carbon rims about 1.5 years ago, I saw the light. They were stiffer, lighter, and easy to set up tubeless. However, I ended up cracking that first pair of Nexties, but when I called to tell them, they sent replacement rims immediately after I gave them the serial numbers. Zero hassle.

All future (good bikes) of mine will roll with carbon rims 

______________________
Might sound silly, but what is a good way to clean and shine up the carbon Roval rims so they look nice when I give them to my friend? I was just going to use some regular car wash soap, a semi-stiff brush, and maybe some car wax after? I don't want to ruin the finish is all.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Is anyone NOT having sealant weeping from their tubeless Ground controls? (I'll add that mine started after a couple months of riding and the front Purge has not leaked anything. 

I'd hate to change anything about my 6fattie since everything works so well (other then crappy XTR brakes), but my GC on the rear is weeping so badly, it started to drip onto the floor. No kidding. So I want to warranty it. I'm happy with the GC performance as far as grip and rolling resistance, but the weeping/seeping sealant is just unacceptable.


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## ishpeming (Feb 23, 2012)

I just put on the Roval 38s and love them


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## ishpeming (Feb 23, 2012)

My rear ground controls weeped. LBS promptly fixed. New tire set up tubeless


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

MisterClean said:


> Is anyone NOT having sealant weeping from their tubeless Ground controls? (I'll add that mine started after a couple months of riding and the front Purge has not leaked anything.
> 
> I'd hate to change anything about my 6fattie since everything works so well (other then crappy XTR brakes), but my GC on the rear is weeping so badly, it started to drip onto the floor. No kidding. So I want to warranty it. I'm happy with the GC performance as far as grip and rolling resistance, but the weeping/seeping sealant is just unacceptable.


I have 100 miles on my tires and neither the front or rear having any weeping issues as of yet.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> Is anyone NOT having sealant weeping from their tubeless Ground controls? (I'll add that mine started after a couple months of riding and the front Purge has not leaked anything.
> 
> I'd hate to change anything about my 6fattie since everything works so well (other then crappy XTR brakes), but my GC on the rear is weeping so badly, it started to drip onto the floor. No kidding. So I want to warranty it. I'm happy with the GC performance as far as grip and rolling resistance, but the weeping/seeping sealant is just unacceptable.


Specialized says the original GC and Purg that were spec'd on the bikes were bad and can leak sealant over time. It is like the sealant reacts with the sidewall and results in the leakage because it gets worse over time and the sealant never seals up. The replacement Purgs and GCs we received have all weighed 50 grams more than the tires that were spec'd on the bike. We have not had any replacement tires weep.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

tcianca said:


> I am thinking about changing my bike's shox with a more enduro style one. What options do I have ?
> 
> here's my bike
> https://www.specialized.com/it/it/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-6fattie/107080


Murchman pretty much covered it. The bike works well for me as equipped. If you get the tire pressure dialed for your weight and riding style, the DPS shock does quite well (unless, perhaps, you are moving at downhill race speeds). The simplest upgrade would be to add the EVOL can to the shock (sacrificing the Autosag), but I haven't found a need for that at my moderate size/speed.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> I'm taking your advice and holding you to it! These wheels better last 4eva.  I decided I didn't want to wait for all the components to come in, and since Specialized had the wheels in stock, I just plunged for the Rovals. I'm not sure if orange stickers were an option, but if not, now I can leave it stealth/unstickered.


If you don't get the orange stickers just PM me and we can talk  Yes, you will absolutely love these wheels. Let me know what tires you plan on running if you don't stick with stock.



Drevil said:


> Might sound silly, but what is a good way to clean and shine up the carbon Roval rims so they look nice when I give them to my friend? I was just going to use some regular car wash soap, a semi-stiff brush, and maybe some car wax after? I don't want to ruin the finish is all.


I'd be careful with anything even remotely abrasive since most Roval finishes are matte. I'd use soap and water to start then maybe a gentle prep solvent (i.e. something safe for you car's clear coat) to remove stubborn spots. Hitting them with some matte-specific spray wax or sealant from Chemical Guys would be icing on the cake... but probably overkill. I do hit my frame and wheels with a sealant called RejeX every so often to keep things silky smooth. A clean bike is a fast bike.


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## tp806 (Nov 13, 2008)




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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

That video is saying what we all know.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

intresting video, but the tire pressure, WTF? I just got done riding a Salsa Pony Rustler and the Salsa rep had me at 13/12 psi. I'm 240# (110kg). 

I also happen to own a Stumpy FSR with the GC/PC combo and I run about 3-4 psi lower.

strange.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Not too strange. I am historically at 14/16psi (180lbs fully loaded), but jumping tends to get a little squirmy so I bumped to 15/17psi. I could do 18/19 on smooth stuff easily.

Edit: No experience on WTB tires... they probably were designed for lower pressure. The Purgatory/Ground Control need a bit more pressure to not feel like riding on an oily mirror.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> If you don't get the orange stickers just PM me and we can talk  Yes, you will absolutely love these wheels. Let me know what tires you plan on running if you don't stick with stock.


Wow, ordered yesterday, here today. What witchcraft is this?! 

Thanks for the offer, but no stickers necessary. I like the way they look now. I'm just going to reinstall the Purgs that were on the front and back of the old wheelset.

I weighed this wheelset, which already had the tubeless valves and rim tape already installed. I can't wait to try 'em, but it's been raining so much here in Maryland that they might have to wait a little while until the trails dry up again.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

Drevil, those are the Traverse 38s right?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

sgtrobo said:


> Drevil, those are the Traverse 38s right?


Yes.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Is 38 the ID or OD?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Derek200 said:


> Is 38 the ID or OD?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Spec site says the ID is 38 here: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/wheels/roval-traverse-38-sl-fattie-650b-148/107486


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil,
I think my eyes spy that your SL38's were sent with the wrong front endcaps for the Fox 34 fork. Those appear to be the larger diameter mounting caps that only work on the Rock Shox... look here at post #33. I might be wrong but from the pic on the scale I think you might want to throw that front wheel in the forks for looksy. If they are incorrect you just need to simply get some DT Swiss 15mm "standard" caps... sorry I don't have part number.

Also, go with the spoke hole plugs for tubeless and save yourself some grams and hassle-free awesomeness.

Enjoy!
John


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

I have demoed this bike on the trails 4 times now, large aluminum, medium aluminum, large carbon white and a short ride on the electric. 

Was trying to see if anything else compares, so also demoed the Pivot, Devinci, Trek 29Plus and Salsa Pony Rustler. 

Rocky Mountain and Cannondale have decided not to bring out their plus bikes to the demo days, saying they could only bring so many bikes and opted not to bring those.

The only bike that felt anywhere near the 6fattie was the Salsa but I demoed that last year, would like to ride them back to back for comparison. 

The Canadian supplier has non in stock for this year, just wondering if anything else compares.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Drevil,
> I think my eyes spy that your SL38's were sent with the wrong front endcaps for the Fox 34 fork. Those appear to be the larger diameter mounting caps that only work on the Rock Shox... look here at post #33. I might be wrong but from the pic on the scale I think you might want to throw that front wheel in the forks for looksy. If they are incorrect you just need to simply get some DT Swiss 15mm "standard" caps... sorry I don't have part number.
> 
> Also, go with the spoke hole plugs for tubeless and save yourself some grams and hassle-free awesomeness.
> ...


Dangit! I thought they looked big, but I never took off my front wheel from my Fox fork, so I wasn't sure. As you may have guessed, I didn't try the new wheel on my fork.

Maybe I'll try swapping the endcaps that are in the current wheelset with the new ones (which should work, right?) if I really wanted to ride these wheels this weekend.

Also, did your SL 38 wheelset come pre-taped and with the plugs? I don't think mine came with the plugs, but I should dig around in the box to see if there was anything else in it.

Thanks for your help so far, John!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> Dangit! I thought they looked big, but I never took off my front wheel from my Fox fork, so I wasn't sure. As you may have guessed, I didn't try the new wheel on my fork.
> 
> Maybe I'll try swapping the endcaps that are in the current wheelset with the new ones (which should work, right?) if I really wanted to ride these wheels this weekend.
> 
> ...


Drevil,
I forgot that you have the S-Works with Traverse hubs already... yes, those should be a 1 sec swap to the SL38s. My comp had the hi-lo hubs so swapping endcaps wasn't an option for me.

My SL38s came pre-taped but also included the plugs, so dig around in the box for sure.

You'll be ready to ride this weekend


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Drevil,
> I forgot that you have the S-Works with Traverse hubs already... yes, those should be a 1 sec swap to the SL38s. My comp had the hi-lo hubs so swapping endcaps wasn't an option for me.
> 
> My SL38s came pre-taped but also included the plugs, so dig around in the box for sure.
> ...


Big dummy alert:

I looked in the box, and the smaller "Fox" endcaps were in there, along with the plugs, instructions, and sticker kits (including orange!)


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> Big dummy alert:
> 
> I looked in the box, and the smaller "Fox" endcaps were in there, along with the plugs, instructions, and sticker kits (including orange!)


You got overly excited i guess  Did you by chance get any other stickers besides just orange?


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

I took the plunge last week and purchased a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 6Fattie. This is the first production mountain bike I've purchased in more than 20 years and I'm pretty psyched about this rig.


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

What is the difference between the comp in orange and the aluminum comp in black?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Windigo said:


> What is the difference between the comp in orange and the aluminum comp in black?


The Orange looks cooler....IMHO....other than that, no difference.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

drevil said:


> wow, ordered yesterday, here today. What witchcraft is this?!
> 
> thanks for the offer, but no stickers necessary. I like the way they look now. I'm just going to reinstall the purgs that were on the front and back of the old wheelset.
> 
> ...


awesome!!!!!


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Specialized says the original GC and Purg that were spec'd on the bikes were bad and can leak sealant over time. It is like the sealant reacts with the sidewall and results in the leakage because it gets worse over time and the sealant never seals up. The replacement Purgs and GCs we received have all weighed 50 grams more than the tires that were spec'd on the bike. We have not had any replacement tires weep.


I had my GC and Purge warrantied about three months ago with major seepage on three month old tires. Yesterday the replacements began to weep badly after about 300 miles. Ill ride them until I cant maintain pressure and switch to something else. My LBS has offered to cover the switch. This sucks..... I love the Purgs front and back.


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

Hi guys, I'm trying understand the performance difference between the Endure 29er and the FSR 6 fattie.
I am looking for my new ride and I am most concerned about downhill performance.
Trying to figure out which of these two bikes is best when it comes to roll over steep and technic stuff like big rocks, steps and giant holes while going downhill.
Just to be clear I mean the kind of freeride technic very steep rocky bike park trails, NOT the downhill racing fast-lots of corners-high speed but smooth surface ones.
Still wondering if the E29 greater travel, geo and head angle get it to beat the FSR 6fattie for what I need.
Has anyone tried both and can help me?
Thanks!


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## bigmike9699 (Aug 27, 2007)

inglese said:


> Hi guys, I'm trying understand the performance difference between the Endure 29er and the FSR 6 fattie.
> I am looking for my new ride and I am most concerned about downhill performance.
> Trying to figure out which of these two bikes is best when it comes to roll over steep and technic stuff like big rocks, steps and giant holes while going downhill.
> Just to be clear I mean the kind of freeride technic very steep rocky bike park trails, NOT the downhill racing fast-lots of corners-high speed but smooth surface ones.
> ...


So I've ridden both extensively. I raced an enduro season, including the 2014 Crankworx EWS Enduro on an E29, and this season got onto a stumpy 6fattie.

Put it this way... I've felt no disadvantage in speed or ability to tackle steep terrain on the 6fattie compared to the E29, and have found many advantages in traction that just weren't really possible on the e29 without going to incredibly high rolling resistant tires.

Granted, the sidewall tech on fattie tires is limited, if you're smart in your riding, you'll be fine.

Go with the Stumpy 6fattie, you will be happier in the long run...especially if you get an ultralite 29er wheel set and put it on... you'll have a super light trail ripper.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> You got overly excited i guess  Did you by chance get any other stickers besides just orange?


I didn't look hard enough, but I will later. I'm going to put stickers on because after day 1 of riding them today, there's already 4 sweet scratches on the back wheel. I also fell off a log skinny, bending my rear hanger, which sent the chain into the spokes. My shop happily fixed it though 

Short clips from today's ride:


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Hey Drevil, can you send me some or those skills. Having a great day yesterday, thinking how I have never crashed the Fatty. Went over a really wide ladder bridge in the last 1km of the ride and literally rode off the edge. What a Gumby. No more thinking for me. Smacked hard into a log at the bottom. Sore and sorry today.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

The skills are built into the bike. The more you spend, the more you get. That's why I got the S-Works! 

For example, watch my friends at this log attempt yesterday. One had an S-Works Stumpy hardtail, while the others had full suspension. Combine them both, and the bike will hop over the log for you!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

So here she is in all her glory. It's mostly stock, but things I've modded so far:

Roval SL38 wheelset
Purgatory rear tire
Removed all volume spacers from fork
ESI Fit grips
K-Edge adjustable GPS mount
Thomson 50mm stem
XTR pedals
MRP XCG V2 Bashguard
A little bit of Crankskins tape here and there (and along the whole top tube) 

Last weekend, I went down faster than I ever have on some of our rocky trails, but more importantly, under complete control! I really couldn't stop giggling. *This bike emboldens me like no other bike has.*


2016 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR S-Works 6Fattie by ricky d, on Flickr


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Drevil said:


> ... *This bike emboldens me like no other bike has.*


Looks like you have it dialed, Drevil. :thumbsup:

Agree that it *"emboldens"* one!


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Drevil said:


> So here she is in all her glory. It's mostly stock, but things I've modded so far:
> 
> Roval SL38 wheelset
> Purgatory rear tire
> ...


I have done almoste the same changes on mine.
why did you remove all volume spacers from fork?
Is it an easy process?

bye


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

tcianca said:


> I have done almoste the same changes on mine.
> why did you remove all volume spacers from fork?
> Is it an easy process?
> 
> bye


Why? I wasn't getting all the travel from my fork, and I ran into Levity's excellent post where he talks about it and points you in the right direction for how to fix it:
http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...ir-spring-spacers-stumpy-6fattie-1011234.html

No connection to the company, but I bought this wrench (blue 26mm one) to take off the top cap. It is very well made, and is a perfect fit to the cap:
Lunar Bike Tools

With that tool and a shock pump, it is extremely easy, taking 4 minutes at the most. Read the instructions Levity links to in his post.

I'm still experimenting with pressures and settings. In my pic, the O-ring isn't very high because I reset it and I was just doing a "wakeup" neighborhood ride this morning with a few small jumps but no big drops


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

*Change Fork and Shock Settings Depending on Trail?*

So I was wondering, does anyone regularly change their fork and/or shock settings depending on the trail? I'm not talking about locking them out, but change their air pressure, rebound or damping settings, thresholds, etc?

So for example, I ride a gamut of trail types and conditions. Some are really smooth and flowy, with nary a rock. Over the weekend, I'll head to places that are very choppy and rocky, some have big drops, jumps, etc. It seems to me all those differences necessitates pre-ride tweaking, but hey, I'm fairly new to the sproingy thing.

I'll be honest say that I don't. However, I have noticed that the rear shock bottomed out hard a couple of times on bigger drops (>3') I did over the weekend. Am I harming the shock by not pumping it up before a ride like this? I don't want to lose the suppleness over smaller things, but I don't want to break anything either. I set it up with Autosag a few weeks ago, and have left it alone since. Could a couple of weeks make a difference in riding pressure? Do y'all trust the Autosag settings?

Am I being a dork here?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil, 
I don't have nearly the variety you do so I kind of set it and forget it... especially the front since I have yet to bottom it out. The rear is a different story. I do use the Autosag but I am not sold on it. I always seem to use every mm of travel with it no matter what the terrain. I have gone off about a 3ft ledge at a decent speed with my 6fattie and the rear seems to bottom out with a distinct thud feeling. I don't do it often but it's enough to make me want to either set sag at a manual 20% (whatever that psi may be... i don't know) or play with any spacers that might be available for the shock? I'm like you, I'll get into the guts of something if someone shows me or I watch a video and feel comfortable enough.

Honestly, I have been "ok" with the rear shock in Autosag form but I am not in love with it. It can probably wow me if I put some time and effort into educating myself but I just haven't done that. I am curious to know what the long term impact might be if I do keep bottoming it out.

I weight 165-170 suited up by the way. 65psi in the fork and not yet removed any of the spacers... but i intend to for sure!

I'm subscribed to know what others think about the rear.

John


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I have had to add the large volume spacer to my rear shock due to bottom out when I run 25% sag (Large guy at 225lbs). If you're bottoming to much you will end up wearing out the shock, the shock hardware, etc. Once or twice a ride isn't bad but it does depend on how hard of a bottom out it is.

The volume spacers are a cheap and easy way of adjusting you're shock and fork to run the sag you want and have the bottom out resistance needed.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> I have had to add the large volume spacer to my rear shock due to bottom out when I run 25% sag (Large guy at 225lbs). If you're bottoming to much you will end up wearing out the shock, the shock hardware, etc. Once or twice a ride isn't bad but it does depend on how hard of a bottom out it is.
> 
> The volume spacers are a cheap and easy way of adjusting you're shock and fork to run the sag you want and have the bottom out resistance needed.


Well all it took was a simple google search (as I have been too lazy to perform in the past) to see how to change the rear shock volume spacer. Seems easier than the front.

So we are collectively finding that the front fork has too many volume spacers and the rear has not enough? Well this is very general of course but it seems like the 150-190lb crowd is benefiting from these tuning tips?

SHOCK- Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, and DHX Air) | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It would be nice to create a wiki for the 6Fattie.

Things to know about the shocks:


Front Fox 34 comes stock with two volume spacers
2016 32mm/34mm FLOAT Air Spring Tuning with Air Volume Spacers | Bike Help Center | FOX
Rear Fox DPS has no volume spacers (Fox told I can use any size in our shock)
SHOCK- Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, and DHX Air) | Bike Help Center | FOX

You can call fox directly to order the volume spacers for both front and rear. Took a week to get to Georgia since they ship from California.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

As for how many spacers you need up front is not a simple matter of weight of the rider.

Look at the picture of my son on his Stumpy Evo, he clearly has bottomed out the fork. He is 6'1 but only 135lbs, and in the picture he had no bottomless tokens as Rock Shox calls them (volume spacers). So we added two spacers to his fork as he gets big air and needs that progressive ramp up so he does't bottom out but still needs it to be plush enough for trail ridding.









So how many spacers you need will very by each person and they way they ride. Try different setting and find the one that is best for you and your ridding style.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Here is my 6Fattie

Things I changed from stock

Renthal Apex 50mm Stem
Renthal Fatbar Carbon 40mm Rise 780mm width
Setup Tubeless


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> As for how many spacers you need up front is not a simple matter of weight of the rider.
> 
> So how many spacers you need will very by each person and they way they ride. Try different setting and find the one that is best for you and your ridding style.


Agreed, just noting that in my experience I am having to remove spacers from the Fox fork, while on my Rock Shox Bluto I had to add bottomless tokens like your son.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Be aware: I have the Carbon Comp in white, which is the "low end" carbon version. I went to the local Specialized dealer and asked about ordering volume spacers for the rear shock. They called Fox directly about that specific shock, and Fox said that volume spacers were not available for it.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I needed some 20wt oil and called up Fox and asked again about the volume spacers for the rear shock while I was ordering the oil. This time they asked a couple of people and they said not to run the volume spacers due to the autsag the specialized uses. If you want to tune it if with the spacers you need to purchase a normal air can.

The guy who gave the answer seemed a lot more knowledgeable then the others who said it was okay to run the spacers. 

Looks like I have some work to do to figure out how to solve my rear bottom out issue.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> Here is my 6Fattie
> 
> Things I changed from stock
> 
> ...


Interesting. You shortened the stem, but setup the riser bar with almost no sweep. It almost looks like an oversized old-school BMX bike.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Chris5.5 (Aug 30, 2010)

Been looking for a new bike for my 40th, previously had an 08 and a 10 Stumpy, went to get my 8 year a new bike, he got a rip rock and I got a Stumpy Comp, standard apart from going tubeless and putting my old Hope Tech M4 brakes on. The Deore's felt fine, but the hopes have better modulation and plenty of power.
IMG_0043 by sidders34, on Flickr
2016-05-09_07-10-21 by sidders34, on Flickr


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> Interesting. You shortened the stem, but setup the riser bar with almost no sweep. It almost looks like an oversized old-school BMX bike.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


With my long legs my seat is way up so I need the bars to come up as well even on the XL. It also shows my age and that I like the feel of my old bmx bike days.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Yes, it's good when your bike lets you feel like a hoodlum again.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

bigmike9699 said:


> So I've ridden both extensively. I raced an enduro season, including the 2014 Crankworx EWS Enduro on an E29, and this season got onto a stumpy 6fattie.
> 
> Put it this way... I've felt no disadvantage in speed or ability to tackle steep terrain on the 6fattie compared to the E29, and have found many advantages in traction that just weren't really possible on the e29 without going to incredibly high rolling resistant tires.
> 
> ...


Thanks! Just what I needed to know, so the FSR can handle steep difficult terrain at least as good as the E29?
Not interested in the speed, I just ride 4 fun


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Okay more news on running the volume spacers on the rear shock. If you don't have a factory installed black spacer in your shock than you can run the volume spacers. If your shock has the black volume spacer/travel reducer in the shock than you can't run the volume spacer as it already has it in it and you can't remove the black volume spacer as it'a attached to the rod. 

Good news for me is neither my 6fattie or my sons 650b EVO stumpy have the black spacer installed in the rear shock so it's like a normal Fox float DPS shock.

Disclaimer: I don't represent Fox or Specialized and since I can't get an official answer from either company it's only my opinion based on what they could tell me but would not back either way.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Okay more news on running the volume spacers on the rear shock. If you don't have a factory installed black spacer in your shock than you can run the volume spacers. If your shock has the black volume spacer/travel reducer in the shock than you can't run the volume spacer as it already has it in it and you can't remove the black volume spacer as it'a attached to the rod.
> 
> Good news for me is neither my 6fattie or my sons 650b EVO stumpy have the black spacer installed in the rear shock so it's like a normal Fox float DPS shock.
> 
> Disclaimer: I don't represent Fox or Specialized and since I can't get an official answer from either company it's only my opinion based on what they could tell me but would not back either way.


Hey everyone,
So I decided to upgrade the factory Fox Float DPS shock on my stock Comp Carbon with the Fox EVOL air sleeve. I just got off the phone with Fox and here's what i got for you all.

1) Fox EVOL air sleeve upgrade (non-Kashima) = part #806-29-411-KIT ($60 msrp; $11.99 shipping)
2) Fox Air Sleeve Volume Spacers = part #803-00-802 ($35 msrp; currently on back order for roughly 2 months... i did not order)
3) Air Sleeve Maintanence Kit = part #803-00-142 (didn't ask $, but this is for future reference)

According to the rep, the *Autosag function will NOT work with the EVOL air sleeve*. This does not personally matter to me. He said that the EVOL air sleeve will help alleviate the bottom out issue and to try this before ordering spacers. Looking at the EVOL air sleeve page below I like the new spring rate curve.

I figured for $70 it's a better option than the $400 I wanted to spend on the Rock Shox Monarch Plus Debonair.

How-To video for EVOL sleeve: SHOCK- Air Sleeve Maintenance (FLOAT , FLOAT X, and DHX Air) | Bike Help Center | FOX
Nice review w/ spring rate chart: Fox Evol air sleeve review - Factory Jackson Factory Jackson


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## Ride Dirty (May 3, 2016)

Hi guys .. had my 6 fattie a couple weeks and done a few rides BUt my crank on the right is coming loose .. the 8mm allen bolt?!

I sent it back to the shop and they gave it back, said it was sorted.15km into next ride is was loose again 

any ideas on issue or how to fix it and potential damage already done?

thanks


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

29er wheelset fits fine correct?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

techfersure said:


> 29er wheelset fits fine correct?


Yes.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey everyone,
> So I decided to upgrade the factory Fox Float DPS shock on my stock Comp Carbon with the Fox EVOL air sleeve. I just got off the phone with Fox and here's what i got for you all.
> 
> 1) Fox EVOL air sleeve upgrade (non-Kashima) = part #806-29-411-KIT ($60 msrp; $11.99 shipping)
> ...


Report back, please. At that price, I can't think I'd a reason not to make this upgrade, but maybe you're experience will say different.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

phride said:


> Yes.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Sweet,thx,about to make the move on Fsr carbon.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Put an 8mm wrench in your bag. Problem solved.

I've been in this situation with an OE Specialized crankset. After a few rides and re-torques, it somehow seated itself and I had no further issues.



Ride Dirty said:


> Hi guys .. had my 6 fattie a couple weeks and done a few rides BUt my crank on the right is coming loose .. the 8mm allen bolt?!
> 
> I sent it back to the shop and they gave it back, said it was sorted.15km into next ride is was loose again
> 
> ...


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## ACLakey (Jul 7, 2012)

Blatant said:


> Put an 8mm wrench in your bag. Problem solved.
> 
> I've been in this situation with an OE Specialized crankset. After a few rides and re-torques, it somehow seated itself and I had no further issues.


I had the same issue with my E29. After several episode of this happening it finally stopped.


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

Hi guys! just brought home my new for 6fattie comp!!!
I noticed that the rear brake cable does not follow internal routing, neither there is the hole in the left side of the frame for it...
There is however an extra hole for the front derailleur on the right side...
I can't understand the reason of this difference from the carbon frame...
I was thinking of inverting the brake levers to use the front derailleur routing for the rear brake... has anyone tried this?
It just seems a shame to have all the cables hidden except one...


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

ACLakey said:


> I had the same issue with my E29. After several episode of this happening it finally stopped.


I had the crank come lose on both the my sons Evo Stympy and the S-Works 6fattie. After re-torque I haven't had the issue again on either bike.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Drevil said:


> So I was wondering, does anyone regularly change their fork and/or shock settings depending on the trail? I'm not talking about locking them out, but change their air pressure, rebound or damping settings, thresholds, etc?
> 
> So for example, I ride a gamut of trail types and conditions. Some are really smooth and flowy, with nary a rock. Over the weekend, I'll head to places that are very choppy and rocky, some have big drops, jumps, etc. It seems to me all those differences necessitates pre-ride tweaking, but hey, I'm fairly new to the sproingy thing.
> 
> ...


Yes. As an example in the fork:
42-45 psi for east coast rocks
50-55 for CO / CA 
55-60 for Sedona / Moab 
Rebound gets slowed down as the pressure increases.

To answer your earlier question about not using all of your travel. Just reduce your air pressure. You're over thinking it.


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## 9GUY9 (Jul 14, 2007)

Are there any other bigger folks riding the 6fattie?

I just bought a comp, and I dig the tires and the overall bike. But the rear suspension is terrible. If I use the auto sag feature I end up with about 250psi in the shock. The ride mode selector on the shock makes almost no difference. I have the compression dampening just about maxed out. Under power it squats pretty bad, and the ride is quite bouncy. I have tried a bit more air pressure and it just turned it into a pogo stick. I have had many different FS bikes in the past, so I have a decent grasp on suspension setup.

Many years ago I had a Stumpjumper with similar FSR suspension, which I hated. I had similar experience with that bike, but to a higher degree. I suspected then, and unfortunately am starting to again that the rear shock are valved for a 180lb rider. When the air pressure is increased to a level to support my heavy rear the valving is overwhelmed and the shock gets bouncy. I am thinking a neutral suspension setup like the 4bar makes this more noticeable. A suspension that uses chain tension to firm up the ride may cover this problem up.

I also had my cranks loosen up after about 10mi. I tightened them, and also had to adjust the tension ring.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

Had the exact same problem, if you have the swat tools, there is one that will help tighten it to finish the ride. As for the fix, the shop tightened it twice after it got loos after 2-3 rides, and since then haven;t had the problem anymore, that was back in November.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Average weight complete for the carbon version?


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

I have a fattie expert carbon and am very satisfied with it but I need suggestion because I am not satisfied with the rear shox. 

It bottoms out very easily if I add more pressure it is not plush enough

I have not understood if it is possible to add a spacer to make it more progressive

What other option is there on the market ? What about changing it with a more efficient one, possibly with piggy back?


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## Guest (May 23, 2016)

tcianca said:


> I have a fattie expert carbon and am very satisfied with it but I need suggestion because I am not satisfied with the rear shox.


ummm, so which is it??


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> I have a fattie expert carbon and am very satisfied with it but I need suggestion because I am not satisfied with the rear shox.
> 
> It bottoms out very easily if I add more pressure it is not plush enough
> 
> ...


This exact question is addressed one page back in this forum (page 44) in threads #1091-1092 (and a few before that)

I'd recommend a larger air sleeve like the Fox EVOL or Vorsprung Corest. This will allow you to run more pressure, have a more firm mid-stoke and not diminish the small bump compliance. Also, once you run the air sleeve you can then begin to play with volume spacers (which are on backorder from Fox as of 5/20).

I am going this route with Fox before spending my hard earned $ on a piggy back shock like the Rock Shox Monarch Plus Debonair.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> This exact question is addressed one page back in this forum (page 44) in threads #1091-1092 (and a few before that)
> 
> I'd recommend a larger air sleeve like the Fox EVOL or Vorsprung Corest. This will allow you to run more pressure, have a more firm mid-stoke and not diminish the small bump compliance. Also, once you run the air sleeve you can then begin to play with volume spacers (which are on backorder from Fox as of 5/20).
> 
> I am going this route with Fox before spending my hard earned $ on a piggy back shock like the Rock Shox Monarch Plus Debonair.


Thanks for the info then! Have you already made the evol sleeve upgrade or still waiting for the parts? I'm eager to read your opinion about the upgrade !


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

9GUY9 said:


> Are there any other bigger folks riding the 6fattie?
> 
> I just bought a comp, and I dig the tires and the overall bike. But the rear suspension is terrible. If I use the auto sag feature I end up with about 250psi in the shock. The ride mode selector on the shock makes almost no difference. I have the compression dampening just about maxed out. Under power it squats pretty bad, and the ride is quite bouncy. I have tried a bit more air pressure and it just turned it into a pogo stick. I have had many different FS bikes in the past, so I have a decent grasp on suspension setup.
> 
> ...


Welcome to not being an average sized rider (i'm 6'2 225lbs). Right now i am waiting on a EVOL air sleeve to arrive so can tune the shock a bit better and add more volume spacers to have the shock ramp up more to prevent bottom out and have better mid stroke support.

All manufacturers have to sell bikes for the average rider weight so no matter the brand you are going to have to custom tune your shocks. Best rear shock I have owned that I could get to feel just right without having to send it off for a custom tune is my Cane Creek Double Barrel Air, that shock I could control everything on.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> Thanks for the info then! Have you already made the evol sleeve upgrade or still waiting for the parts? I'm eager to read your opinion about the upgrade !


Both Murchman and myself placed the orders last week for new air sleeves. He's got the S-Works with Kashima and I have the regular Fox Float DPS on my Carbon Comp. I have not received mine yet to report anything back. Fingers crossed that it helps. I probably won't be able to review it for a few weeks even if it arrives this week. I am taking a MTB trip with my wife over the Memorial Day weekend and I am not going to try something new before a long ride.

Murchman also has the volume spacer kit in his possession i believe. He's got the jump on the game 

Just a heads up that the new *EVOL air sleeve will eliminate the Autosag functionality*.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

I am slowly zeroing in on this bike. I've asked people for some advice, but you know what they say about opinions. Yet, here I am again asking for opinions ;-).

I am coming from a Costco Northrock 29er hardtail. The 6Fattie is the only FS bike I have experience with, but I had a blast on it. I will mainly be riding in Mammoth. I've been overwhelmed with choices, so I am thinking of just sticking to what I know. I have a few questions:

1. I demoed the Carbon version. I loved that I was able to actually climb hills compared to my Northrock. I am thinking of getting the Comp (because it's cheaper and this is my first FS)... but I am concerned if the added weight will eliminate the ability for me to climb.

2. I've heard some concerns about these bikes being better for smaller people (either in height, or weight, I can't remember which). I am 220lbs and 5'9. Would that be a detriment for long term use?

3. A friend claims that this is probably not a good bike as my only FS bike (He referred to it as a "fatbike" which I thought was a totally different beast). He also claims that although wide rims and tires are the future, this bike is too voluminous. Is this just the usual 27.5+ skepticism?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

1. The bike isn't that heavy at all, I have been riding 32lbs FS bikes up hills for 14 years with no issues just makes you a stronger rider.

2. The bike are better for all types there is no right size

3. Don't take advice from someone who doesn't have one as their own. I have a stable of bikes to choose from and guess which ones I pick every time I go out...


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

1) I own the Comp Carbon but I wouldn't shy away from the Alloy version. My only buying advise if you went the Alloy route would be to *take the money you saved and buy a set of wider carbon rims like the Traverse SL38's*. Save the weight where it counts... in the rolling mass. Carbon wheels will provide you with a noticeable ride quality improvement up, down and even sideways on hill 

2) If you fit the bike and you like the way it rides then that's your answer. You can play around with the suspension (like we are all learning here currently) to dial it in to your personality.

3) You need new friends. Seriously though, ride one and if it doesn't feel right then YOU make the decision, not someone else on your behalf. From my experience as well, it's my go-to ride now. I have a fatbike with a Bluto and HED Big Deal/Dillinger 5's (lighter than my 6fattie by 2lb!) and its not even close to the same riding experience.


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

Just an update on my previous review:

The pedal strikes on this bike are outrageous. I like the bike but I think the low bottom bracket height is a poor design. 

Deal killer? No...but in hindsight if I had known about this problem I would have bought a different bike.

Yes, I have the suspension set up correctly. I'm actually running less sag now to help out. This bike actually killed my Crankbrother Mallet pedals...the silver lining is I switched to Time ATAC DH4s and liked them so much I converted all of my bikes including my Tour Divide bike.

Yeah...I can feel the outrage coming. I like Specialized but I'm not a fanboy. 

Chain clearance is not an issue, by the way. And otherwise the bike is very burly, easy to ride, and climbs like nobody's business.


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

Murchman said:


> 1. The bike isn't that heavy at all, I have been riding 32lbs FS bikes up hills for 14 years with no issues just makes you a stronger rider.
> 
> 2. The bike are better for all types there is no right size
> 
> 3. Don't take advice from someone who doesn't have one as their own. I have a stable of bikes to choose from and guess which ones I pick every time I go out...


I have mine down to 28 pounds with a carbon seatpost, stem, handlebars, and tubeless tires. I sold the dropper post. It worked great but I don't really need it for the local trails.

28-30 pound is not a heavy bike.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> My only buying advise if you went the Alloy route would be to take the money you saved and buy a set of wider carbon rims like the Traverse SL38's.
> 
> 3) You need new friends.


This is very good advice! I pretty much discounted my friend's advice after all of the hundreds of pages of reviews and posts about this bike. I do remember the pedal strikes being a bummer, but it sounds workable.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

Well, I finally pulled the trigger after almost a year of handwringing. I went with the entry-level Full-Red Comp 6Fattie (not the Carbon one I rented). I decided that since this was my first FS bike, and I preferred to save money, this will suit me very well for a few years.

Right now I am in Ventura County so I decided to go to a LBS there since tax rate is lower, and no tourist assessment like at home in Mammoth. I was able to get a discount in anticipation of Memorial Day sale, but the staff was not very friendly and I didn't feel welcome, so I won't return except to pick up the bike. It makes me miss the guys at Footloose so much more.

My bike should come in late this week or early next week. I can't wait to ride!!!!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

OffTheTop said:


> Well, I finally pulled the trigger after almost a year of handwringing. I went with the entry-level Full-Red Comp 6Fattie (not the Carbon one I rented). I decided that since this was my first FS bike, and I preferred to save money, this will suit me very well for a few years.
> 
> Right now I am in Ventura County so I decided to go to a LBS there since tax rate is lower, and no tourist assessment like at home in Mammoth. I was able to get a discount in anticipation of Memorial Day sale, but the staff was not very friendly and I didn't feel welcome, so I won't return except to pick up the bike. It makes me miss the guys at Footloose so much more.
> 
> My bike should come in late this week or early next week. I can't wait to ride!!!!


Congrats! Welcome to the club.

Don't be shy to play around with the spacers in the Fox Fork and possibly upgrading the rear shock air sleeve to an EVOL. Some of us are finding that we are not using the full travel in the front and blowing thru all the rear travel too quickly. Suspension is great but this is the first bike that I've owned that I've had to really "tune" to get it right.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ailuropoda said:


> Just an update on my previous review:
> 
> The pedal strikes on this bike are outrageous. I like the bike but I think the low bottom bracket height is a poor design.
> 
> ...


I am not going to disagree, it's my #1 complaint too. In fact it's taken me about 6 months to adapt. All I can say is that it got better for me and I hope it does for you. You have options though... eccentric bottom bracket, 170mm crank arms, or even flat pedals (not likely the best solution for all riders)

When I rode my 29x2.4 wheelset on this bike it 99% eliminated all pedal strikes due to the increased tire diameter and it was no-brainer pedaling when riding, BUT i was not having nearly the level of traction, cornering, or confidence that I have with the 3.0" tires. That's why my newest iteration of the bike is 29+ front/27.5+ rear. I have (2) wheelsets and love to play.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I got around to upgrading my fox 34 to 160mm yesterday and took it for a 5 mile ride. I messed up and didn't record the stock measurement before other than the bottom out was a true 150mm but judging by what I recall the fork is now 12mm longer. Per fox instructions i removed one of the two volume spacers when running it in 160mm.

First thing I noticed was how much slacker the half a degree in head angle feels, it felt like my rear shock had too much sag. Riding the bike the front end popped up more on climbs and the front felt a bit lighter. Going downhill did feel better and the pedal strikes where a bit less.

I am not sure if I will stick with the 160mm change or not yet. I plan on dropping my stem a spacer or two down to help with the light front end on climbs but I feel there is more weight being put on the rear and the bike isn't as good an all around trail bike as it was before. Crazy how 10mm of difference can make at least on my first ride.


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

What Is cost for carbon Fsr frame alone?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

techfersure said:


> What Is cost for carbon Fsr frame alone?


Not sure if you can get it without the wheels, but it's $4500 with frame and wheels: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-carbon-6fattie-frame/107082


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

>>>
Are there any other bigger folks riding the 6fattie?

I just bought a comp, and I dig the tires and the overall bike. But the rear suspension is terrible. If I use the auto sag feature I end up with about 250psi in the shock. The ride mode selector on the shock makes almost no difference. I have the compression dampening just about maxed out. Under power it squats pretty bad, and the ride is quite bouncy. I have tried a bit more air pressure and it just turned it into a pogo stick. I have had many different FS bikes in the past, so I have a decent grasp on suspension setup.

Many years ago I had a Stumpjumper with similar FSR suspension, which I hated. I had similar experience with that bike, but to a higher degree. I suspected then, and unfortunately am starting to again that the rear shock are valved for a 180lb rider. When the air pressure is increased to a level to support my heavy rear the valving is overwhelmed and the shock gets bouncy. I am thinking a neutral suspension setup like the 4bar makes this more noticeable. A suspension that uses chain tension to firm up the ride may cover this problem up.

I also had my cranks loosen up after about 10mi. I tightened them, and also had to adjust the tension ring.
>>>

Probably never going to work for you. I got rid of the bike. Perhaps a different rear shock or have the shock tuned. Everything you just wrote mirrors my experience with the Comp.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

*EVOL Air Sleeve installed*

UPS dropped off the EVOL sleeve today, install was about 15 minutes and very easy to do.















First big difference I needed much more air pressure than before 295PSI vs 255psi but it sagged really easy to the point I thought it lost pressure. I was expecting it to be rock hard and instead it was very compliant and smooth. With our big tires it makes it really hard to tell if small bump was improved or not but it did feel a bit better. I installed the medium volume spacer.

I could not get the shock to bottom out without really forcing a hard landing to flat. The shock did have a bit better mid level support and didn't feel like it wallowed.

Here is my bike after really pushing out a lap riding as aggressive as i could, the harder I pushed it the better the whole bike felt which just puts a bike smile on my face.









I was only able to get about 7 miles out on it tonight so I am not sure yet if it was a good upgrade or not but that fact that i didn't bottom and the shock felt very supple was pretty amazing as I expected at that high of pressure to be riding a rigid bike.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Thanks for testing the big can, Murchman. Helpful pics too.

295psi! :eekster:

One usually runs the shock pressure roughly equal to one's weight.
I run the OEM shock at a bit less than my weight (160 lb).
How much do you weigh, if I may ask?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Yeah I was worried at 295psi and my pump only goes to 300psi but t works really well. The fox guys told me the EVOL can can take 50psi more max pressure and now I know why.

I'm 6'2 225lbs with full gear on.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Ailuropoda said:


> The pedal strikes on this bike are outrageous. I like the bike but I think the low bottom bracket height is a poor design.


The low bottom bracket is a stability feature, as this bike has been reviewed many times as being super stable on rough chunky stuff. You sit "in" the frame more, you get your center of gravity lower, and you can physically push the bike harder through stuff that you wouldn't normally attempt.

With that being said, I hit my pedals like crazy for about the first month or so that I had the bike. Once you get used to it, you will automatically ratchet where you used to try and pedal. No biggie, just a learning curve.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> The low bottom bracket is a stability feature, as this bike has been reviewed many times as being super stable on rough chunky stuff. You sit "in" the frame more, you get your center of gravity lower, and you can physically push the bike harder through stuff that you wouldn't normally attempt.
> 
> With that being said, I hit my pedals like crazy for about the first month or so that I had the bike. Once you get used to it, you will automatically ratchet where you used to try and pedal. No biggie, just a learning curve.


While I agree with the verdict and have long since adapted, let's not get carried away. The low BB on the FSR 29er is a stability feature that was designed into the frame. The even lower BB of the 6 Fattie is a side effect of putting smaller, squishier tires on that same frame. It makes it easier to ride down chunky descents and makes it harder to get up a few of them where you can't stop to ratchet.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks for the quick report, Murchman. Even at 180 pounds, I'm using full travel regularly on the chunkier terrain with the sag set closer to 20% than 30, but that's exactly how a shock should work. However, In holding out hope for my courage and skills to continue to develop top the point where I will need the extra support. Did you get a variety of volume spacers with the EVOL can?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Yes the volume spacer kit comes with different sizes so you can start small and work your way up if needed. You can change out the spacers without having to remove the shock so it's a quick change with the hardest part being airing the shock back up and let me tell you getting to 300psi takes some effort.


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## Guest (May 25, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Yes the volume spacer kit comes with different sizes so you can start small and work your way up if needed. You can change out the spacers without having to remove the shock so it's a quick change with the hardest part being airing the shock back up and let me tell you getting to 300psi takes some effort.


bahhhh, you gots the lungs for it..:skep:


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

nvphatty said:


> bahhhh, you gots the lungs for it..:skep:


My teenage years prepared me for it ;-)


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> Yes the volume spacer kit comes with different sizes so you can start small and work your way up if needed. You can change out the spacers without having to remove the shock so it's a quick change with the hardest part being airing the shock back up and let me tell you getting to 300psi takes some effort.


 I figured I'd be messing around with pressures a bunch to get the bike dialed in, so I picked this up with the bike:
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/accessories/air-tool-uhp-floor-pump/105421

It's really nice and works well... it better at that price (and it should pump up the bike itself!)


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

I've been following this thread with interest - my S-Works should be arriving tomorrow Friday...

Especially interested in what Murchman has done with the rear shock, being the same height and weight. How does this affect any warranties on the bike ?

Thanks.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> I figured I'd be messing around with pressures a bunch to get the bike dialed in, so I picked this up with the bike:
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/accessories/air-tool-uhp-floor-pump/105421
> 
> It's really nice and works well... it better at that price (and it should pump up the bike itself!)


If you're super particular about things then i highly recommend the Lezyne Digital Shock Pump. It's like the Di2 of pumps 

SHOCK DIGITAL DRIVE - Digital Floor Pumps HP - Floor Pumps


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Drevil said:


> I figured I'd be messing around with pressures a bunch to get the bike dialed in, so I picked this up with the bike:
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/accessories/air-tool-uhp-floor-pump/105421
> 
> It's really nice and works well... it better at that price (and it should pump up the bike itself!)


Wow that would be so nice to have, now i know what to ask for as a fathers day gift


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

CeejaySmiff said:


> I've been following this thread with interest - my S-Works should be arriving tomorrow Friday...
> 
> Especially interested in what Murchman has done with the rear shock, being the same height and weight. How does this affect any warranties on the bike ?
> 
> Thanks.


So here is what the Big S told me, the shock is Fox's so any mods need to be approved by them as they will handle the warranty. Fox told me no volume spacers on the autosag sleeve and to purchase the EVOL sleeve so I can run spacers, have small bump compliance at the higher pressures, and help with the rebound at higher pressure. Should I need warranty work I can also stick the autosag sleeve back on and it's back to stock.

I have been dealing with Fox for 10+ years and never had a problem getting warranty work done with them. I also do my own work though so I deal direct with them.

Specialized has also been really good with warranty work and takes very good care of the customer.


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks Murchman... I too have had warranty work done by Fox and Specialized and agree with you regarding the great customer service.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Murchman said:


> So here is what the Big S told me, the shock is Fox's so any mods need to be approved by them as they will handle the warranty. Fox told me no volume spacers on the autosag sleeve and to purchase the EVOL sleeve so I can run spacers, have small bump compliance at the higher pressures, and help with the rebound at higher pressure. Should I need warranty work I can also stick the autosag sleeve back on and it's back to stock.
> 
> I have been dealing with Fox for 10+ years and never had a problem getting warranty work done with them. I also do my own work though so I deal direct with them.
> 
> Specialized has also been really good with warranty work and takes very good care of the customer.


I have a 6fattie expert carbon and experienced rear easy bottom out problem.

I am 165lbs and would like to switch to Evol kashima can like you.

Do you think I also need to order and use fox spacers? or can I just switch to the evol can without spacers and maybe order them later if I keep on bottoimg out easily?

regards


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> I have a 6fattie expert carbon and experienced rear easy bottom out problem.
> 
> I am 165lbs and would like to switch to Evol kashima can like you.
> 
> ...


I will let you know. I am your exact weight and I have the EVOL can on the way (non Kashima). I plan on running 25% sag and no spacers with the larger can to test out. I am hoping that if it still bottoms out then i can get away with a small spacer.

John


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## techfersure (Dec 17, 2010)

Any body buy a used carbon frame and or any ideas about what it's value would be.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

After three good hard rides i have switched back to the 150mm travel on the fork. I just didn't like the way the front end handled with the extra height of the travel and the effect it had on the trail of the fork. It put to much weight toward the back of the bike and it didn't really improve the pedal clearance. I never thought I would not want more travel but Specialized engineers have it dialed just right for 150mm.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

can somebody explain me the 3 position selector on the fox shox (expert carbon 2016)?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

Im sure there has been mention but has anyone had issue with the headset on the Fattie? I'm 7 months in on my Comp and during the first check-up I told them about a constant creaking which they said was the headset. Is the headset considered part of the frame as far as warranty goes?


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

Murchman said:


> After three good hard rides i have switched back to the 150mm travel on the fork. I just didn't like the way the front end handled with the extra height of the travel and the effect it had on the trail of the fork. It put to much weight toward the back of the bike and it didn't really improve the pedal clearance. I never thought I would not want more travel but Specialized engineers have it dialed just right for 150mm.


Thanks! nice to know! I was thinking of getting a 160fork, I'm thinking again!


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

Finally managed to ride my new 6fattie!!!
So... great uphill! Was afraid since my last bike was a 3crown transmission, but I really got to the top of my usual trail much faster and with way less effort!!! Incredible!
That said, the descent was feeling good... apart from the continuous pedal AND crown strikes(which was quite disappointing really) until I got a flat and dented the rim...
No spare tube, so I had to get back home by foot, and I was running quite good pressure, not too low...


My question is: it seems veeeery easy to get a flat with these tyres, should I trust them or should I just fork out the bills for procore(at least on the rear)?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

inglese said:


> Finally managed to ride my new 6fattie!!!
> So... great uphill! Was afraid since my last bike was a 3crown transmission, but I really got to the top of my usual trail much faster and with way less effort!!! Incredible!
> That said, the descent was feeling good... apart from the continuous pedal AND crown strikes(which was quite disappointing really) until I got a flat and dented the rim...
> No spare tube, so I had to get back home by foot, and I was running quite good pressure, not too low...
> ...


It may not be the tires. If you were constantly banging on stuff on the way down, it sounds like the bigger tires encouraged you to ride more aggressively then you normally do.

You could go the way of procore, but I'd give it more than one ride to make the decision.

Also, carry a spare tube


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

1 flat doesn't indicate a propensity for flats. You have an infinitely small sample size and a lack of understanding of probabilities?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

What's a "crown strike"?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Blatant said:


> What's a "crown strike"?


Chain ring.

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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

phride said:


> Chain ring.


This seems obvious now that I've read the answer and re-read the original post. But my mind invoked an image of the tire buzzing the fork at full compression.


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

Blatant said:


> What's a "crown strike"?


Sorry about that, yes, I meant Chainring, I live in italy and here the chainring is called "corona" which is literally "crown".
Please forgive me for my bad english.

And you're right, I SHOULD carry a spare, but I had just got my new bike and couldn't wait to ride it so I just hopped on it...

You're also right about the fact ONE single flat is not enough for seriously considering procore, but I added that to the fact I keep reading reviews stating plus sizes are prone to flats and since my home trails in Tuscany are full of steep terrain with sharp rocks i really don't want to risk a rim...
Plus, when I got my flat I was followed by three wild boars, which can be quite fierce, in fact lethal... so I really wished I had a procore tube to get back on the bike and pedal instead of having to run pushing it...:yikes: 
There is a reason I asked you guys some help, just to know by your experience if the flats are probable enough to be a constant issue or not, after all, my old Canyon Nerve 26" has NEVER, and I really mean NEVER in 6 years given a flat neither with tubes or with tubeless wheels...
So one in one did upset me a little...


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

inglese said:


> ... Plus, when I got my flat I was followed by three wild boars, which can be quite fierce, in fact lethal... so I really wished I had a procore tube to get back on the bike and pedal instead of having to run pushing it...:yikes: ...


Hey, you can't buy excitement like that! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

It would help to know which model bike you have, which wheels and tires, your weight, and what pressure you were running. A defective or improperly mounted tube, tire or valve stem could be the cause. Denting a rim on a plus bike should require quite a hit at too low pressure. It sounds like you may have had a slow leak followed by the actual rim strike.

You should convert to tubeless! You'll get rid of very heavy, ~300g each, tubes, and reduce the likelihood of punctures as well as snakebite pinch flats. I've never had a flat that didn't self seal on my 6Fattie, and that includes rides thru desert cactus (see below) and up and over rocky ledges.

Good luck, and continue to have fun, the Tuscany area is beautiful! Your English is excellent. Ignore any graceless replies

Oh yeah, and watch out for those boars!


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

levity said:


> Hey, you can't buy excitement like that! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> It would help to know which model bike you have, which wheels and tires, your weight, and what pressure you were running. A defective or improperly mounted tube, tire or valve stem could be the cause. Denting a rim on a plus bike should require quite a hit at too low pressure. It sounds like you may have had a slow leak followed by the actual rim strike.
> 
> ...


Thanks! My bike is a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 6Fattie, the rear was a ground control tyre, I guess you're probably right about the probable slow leak before hitting.
As for the wheels they where already set tubeless with a lot of sealant...
Any suggestions for a stronger rear tyre? I hear first specialized tyres have been made too light... could that be the case?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Do you recall what the "quite good pressure, not too low" you were running was? It's possible that it was low enough that you burped the tire losing enough air to lead to the rim strike. It's also possible the tire was not properly seated on the bead to begin with. Yet another thing to watch for is that the valve stem has not worked loose - this can happen taking the pump head on and off and can lead to a slow leak. Check your tire pressures religiously and watch for sealant leaks around the base of the valve stem and the tire bead. What you had happen should be a rare event.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

CeejaySmiff said:


> Thanks Murchman... I too have had warranty work done by Fox and Specialized and agree with you regarding the great customer service.


Hi, regarding warranty, I emailed Specialized using the ridercare email about my tires sweating out issue, and they have yet to get back to me, it's been 2 weeks plus already.

My LBS can't replace my Purgatory as they are not given the stock by the Spesh distributor in my region (Asia). They did replaced my rear GC. They said their hands are tied as the distributor did not bring in the Purgatory thus there is nothing they can do, and advised me to contact Specialized directly. Is there another email I can use to contact Spesh HQ for warranty?

Thanks.


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## Jadams1 (May 28, 2016)

Just watched this video testing 6fattie and 29er on the same bike. Thought others may be interested.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi, regarding warranty, I emailed Specialized using the ridercare email about my tires sweating out issue, and they have yet to get back to me, it's been 2 weeks plus already.
> 
> My LBS can't replace my Purgatory as they are not given the stock by the Spesh distributor in my region (Asia). They did replaced my rear GC. They said their hands are tied as the distributor did not bring in the Purgatory thus there is nothing they can do, and advised me to contact Specialized directly. Is there another email I can use to contact Spesh HQ for warranty?
> 
> Thanks.


Call Specialized. They have amazing phone customer support.


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

levity said:


> Do you recall what the "quite good pressure, not too low" you were running was? It's possible that it was low enough that you burped the tire losing enough air to lead to the rim strike. It's also possible the tire was not properly seated on the bead to begin with. Yet another thing to watch for is that the valve stem has not worked loose - this can happen taking the pump head on and off and can lead to a slow leak. Check your tire pressures religiously and watch for sealant leaks around the base of the valve stem and the tire bead. What you had happen should be a rare event.


Thanks! I'll give it another try before going procore.
Will check the tire pressure and wheel better and take a tube with me...
Any suggestions for a bashguard that fits well on this bike? I really think I need one!!!

About the boars... seriously considering taking my 9mm with me next time...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

inglese said:


> Thanks! I'll give it another try before going procore.
> Will check the tire pressure and wheel better and take a tube with me...
> Any suggestions for a bashguard that fits well on this bike? I really think I need one!!!
> 
> About the boars... seriously considering taking my 9mm with me next time...


I'm waiting on shipment of a 77desinz 28T bashguard. I'll let you know how I like it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

inglese said:


> Any suggestions for a bashguard that fits well on this bike?


absoluteblack has a very nice TACO bashgaurd = absoluteBLACK | TACO Bashguard


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## thegock (Jan 21, 2014)

My LBS (Hilltop in Summit, NJ) is setting up a 6fattie comp for me. For the same price laced to I9's, I can have the Nextie Jungle Fox II 52mm carbon rims [520 grams] or the Light Bicycle 50/45mm rims [450 grams +/- 20g].

Anyone have any helpful thoughts?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

thegock said:


> My LBS (Hilltop in Summit, NJ) is setting up a 6fattie comp for me. For the same price, I can have the Nextie Jungle Fox II 52mm carbon rims [520 grams] or the Light Bicycle 50/45mm rims [450 grams +/- 20g].
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


Um, buy both, test them out, and send me the inferior set?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

crazyoldfool said:


> Im sure there has been mention but has anyone had issue with the headset on the Fattie? I'm 7 months in on my Comp and during the first check-up I told them about a constant creaking which they said was the headset. Is the headset considered part of the frame as far as warranty goes?


The stock headset on specialized mtbs is garbage. I wouldn't bother with warranty as the replacement won't last long either.

I have replaced the headsets on a few of my specialized mtbs with this combo. It has been working very well:
Wheels Manufacturing 1-1/8" 45 x 45 degree Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bearing 30.2mm ID x 41.8mm OD
Wheels Manufacturing 1-1/8" 45 x 45 degree Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bearing 30.2mm ID x 41.8mm OD - AEBike.com

Cane Creek 110 IS52/40 Bottom Headset
Cane Creek 110 IS52/40 Bottom Headset - AEBike.com

Your LBS can order the exact parts via the part number on QBP. BB1754 + HD2017


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

majr said:


> The stock headset on specialized mtbs is garbage. I wouldn't bother with warranty as the replacement won't last long either.
> 
> I have replaced the headsets on a few of my specialized mtbs with this combo. It has been working very well:
> Wheels Manufacturing 1-1/8" 45 x 45 degree Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bearing 30.2mm ID x 41.8mm OD
> ...


I'd suggest you these two:

40-Series | 40.IS42 Short Cover Top

40-Series | 40.IS52 Bottom


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

The specialized spec says the headset is Hella Flush mine is FSA brand does that mean my lbs already changed it before i got the bike? Are they the ones that fails?


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

JillRide45 said:


> Call Specialized. They have amazing phone customer support.


Hi,

Thanks for the advise. Made the international call last night but they said they can't help as it's not their region. I thought that is the HQ for Specialized? They gave me a email to contact but turns out the email address returned as bad, not valid.

This is leaving a sour taste in this purchase. Even if they do not warranty the tires like what most of you guys get, at least stock up the Purgatory to let me purchase it as a replacement.

Guess I am stuck on this now.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

tcianca said:


> I'd suggest you these two:
> 
> 40-Series | 40.IS42 Short Cover Top
> 
> 40-Series | 40.IS52 Bottom


Have you actually used the Cane Creek 40 upper headset? 
I tried the one that their tool recommended (I believe it's the same as you linked), and it didn't fit properly. As I recall the bearing wasn't quite tall enough and the seal created way too much drag before it was even snugged up. And the CC bearing couldn't be used with the FSA cover as the sealing surface didn't line up.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

don1 said:


> The specialized spec says the headset is Hella Flush mine is FSA brand does that mean my lbs already changed it before i got the bike? Are they the ones that fails?


The FSA is the stock headset. It is crap.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

9GUY9 said:


> Are there any other bigger folks riding the 6fattie?
> 
> I just bought a comp, and I dig the tires and the overall bike. But the rear suspension is terrible. If I use the auto sag feature I end up with about 250psi in the shock. The ride mode selector on the shock makes almost no difference. I have the compression dampening just about maxed out. Under power it squats pretty bad, and the ride is quite bouncy. I have tried a bit more air pressure and it just turned it into a pogo stick. I have had many different FS bikes in the past, so I have a decent grasp on suspension setup.
> ...


"I have the compression dampening just about maxed out."
Uh, there is no compression damping adjustment on the fox performance shock on the comp model (outside of the 3 position lever).


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

I'm seriously thinking about changing the rims for a pair of 52mm Nexties...... anyone has done this and found better riding feedback?


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

She's arrived !

Completely stock so far - One 30 minute test ride done, all seems good.


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## Nstreit408 (Dec 2, 2015)

Very nice! Love the look of the s works. Any bottom out issues with the rear shock?


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Back when I got the old Stumpjumper 29 FSR I was continually pedal striking for 6 months (a number of painful crashes as a result) then suddenly I got used to the set up and they became a rarity. I demo'd this bike over a long weekend before buying and never had the problem.


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Then I read Nstreit408's post properly.....

No - no problems bottoming out the rear shock... but the 30 minute ride was fairly tame.

The weekend demo included plenty of gnar and reasonable drops and there were no problems with it... I don't know if it had been modified though, as I wasn't aware of this issue at the time.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

EVOL air sleeve update. I have a number of rides under my belt and have now even upgraded my son's Stumpy EVO to an EVOL sleeve. We both suffered from bottom out on almost every ride but the difference is he is 6'1 138lbs and I am 6'2 225lbs.

First we tried just using volume spacers to make the shocks more progressive and they did work but Fox recommend against using them with the Autosag air sleeves that come on our bikes. They recommend going to the EVOL sleeve as it can handle the extra pressures and would perform much better in small bumps due to the larger negative air spring. It also changes the high speed compression to help with bottom out.

First thing with the autosag I was at 250psi for 28% sag and my son was at 150psi for 28% sag. With EVOL I am now at 300PSI for 30% sag and my son is at 225PSI for 30% sag. i would have thought at such high pressures the shocks would loose all small bump but that is totally wrong. Small bump is better than ever and really makes the bikes feel like they are running coil shocks.

My son was not able to bottom out and did not add a volume spacer. I am running the .4in spacer in mine and have not bottomed out. The ride on big hits is great and really feels bottomless.

I have my rebound full slow but it's not very slow and I wish I had two or three more clicks to slow it down more but so far no issues and I don't feel that it pushes back to fast but since I can't test it slower I don't know if it would be better. My son's rebound goes much slower so there is a different rebound stack between the two shocks.

I am glad I bought the air sleeve as they made a big difference in the bottom out control and small bump sensitivity. I would have bought the non-kishima sleeve for my shock and saved $40 as I like the all black sleeve and don't think the kishima look is worth the extra cost. 

If you're having bottom out issues this upgrade will solve it and make your bike perform better with the small bumps, though with the plus tires small bump was not really an issue for me.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> EVOL air sleeve update. I have a number of rides under my belt and have now even upgraded my son's Stumpy EVO to an EVOL sleeve. We both suffered from bottom out on almost every ride but the difference is he is 6'1 138lbs and I am 6'2 225lbs.
> 
> First we tried just using volume spacers to make the shocks more progressive and they did work but Fox recommend against using them with the Autosag air sleeves that come on our bikes. They recommend going to the EVOL sleeve as it can handle the extra pressures and would perform much better in small bumps due to the larger negative air spring. It also changes the high speed compression to help with bottom out.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the detailed report. I still need to grow a bigger pair before needing an upgrade, but as I get back closer to my old habits, I can see making this upgrade at some point.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

After reading some of the comments, I started watching the o-ring and noticed I was actually bottoming out quite often too. I checked air pressure and I was at 145psi with autosag (at 175lbs!). Bumped it to about 180-190psi, which set sag at 20% and so far the issue has went away for me.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Because I can't help but tinker I put in the large .6 volume spacer yesterday before my ride and used the same pressures. The ride was not good at all very stiff and no matter what i did I couldn't use full travel, thought I was going to break an ankle on one bad landing. Today I plan on trying the smallest spacer .2 and seeing how it reacts.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I'm now officially in the Badly Creaking BB Club after two months of owning my S-Works. I'm 95% certain the "click, click, click, creak" is coming from the bottom bracket while I pedal up any hill.

Anything I can do here at home to quiet it down, like taking off the cranks and greasing the ball bearings? Or does the noise usually come from movement between the bearings and BB shell?

I don't have this tool yet (BBT-30.3), but I'm willing to swap out the bearings if that's what it takes to silence it.

I'll talk to my shop first to see if it can be remedied under some warranty since it's not very old at all.

Worst case scenario, they make earplugs in orange to match my frame 

On another topic, I spent a decently long weekend in Asheville, NC. Here's a clip from right before we had to pack up the bikes to go home:


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Have you checked to see if it's the pedals?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> Have you checked to see if it's the pedals?


Yes. I swapped my pedals from old clipless XTRs to new XTs, and the sound persisted.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Drevil said:


> Yes. I swapped my pedals from old clipless XTRs to new XTs, and the sound persisted.


Ahh that sucks, would have been much easier.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Murchman said:


> Because I can't help but tinker I put in the large .6 volume spacer yesterday before my ride and used the same pressures. The ride was not good at all very stiff and no matter what i did I couldn't use full travel, thought I was going to break an ankle on one bad landing. Today I plan on trying the smallest spacer .2 and seeing how it reacts.


Typically you reduce air pressure when adding volume spacers. Otherwise the result is exactly what you experienced.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Pressure needs to stay the same in order to maintain proper sag. If I went lower I would wallow in the middle and have even more pedal strikes.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Murchman said:


> Pressure needs to stay the same in order to maintain proper sag. If I went lower I would wallow in the middle and have even more pedal strikes.


Try it and see...
Not being able to use full travel is the expected result of running volume spacers. It ramps up towards the end. If you were using full travel on big hits (for your trails) before, you can drop the pressure with a spacer to bottom out on the same hits and get a plusher (or wallowy, if that's how you want to describe it) initial stroke.
Sag % isn't really super important. It's more of a starting point.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Bottom out is not my biggest issue, if I run more sag I will be deeper into the shock and pedal strikes will be worse than they already are. More sag also means a slacker head angle. My goals were to go to the extremes to find out what works and what doesn't and I have run with 40% sag and didn't like it at all. Today I will be running my no volume spacer and will see how it performs. Once I get a feel for each type of change it will be very easy to bracket into my ideal setup for how I like my ride to feel for my most use trails.


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## Guest (Jun 3, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Bottom out is not my biggest issue, if I run more sag I will be deeper into the shock and pedal strikes will be worse than they already are. More sag also means a slacker head angle. My goals were to go to the extremes to find out what works and what doesn't and I have run with 40% sag and didn't like it at all. Today I will be running my no volume spacer and will see how it performs. Once I get a feel for each type of change it will be very easy to bracket into my ideal setup for how I like my ride to feel for my most use trails.


The allotted time & effort for each change is worthy of respect IMV, in short suspension and it's inherent science is some cool stuff if one performs their due diligence as you go through the process of learning & understanding the effects. Logging the change, effects and outcome = gold.:thumbsup:


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

My apologies in advance if this has already been posted, but has anyone put a 29er wheelset on their 6fattie? Wonder if a high volume 29 tire will fit, or just a low profile 29er tire?


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Hi drevil! I had this problem a month ago! Brought it back to the shop! Head technician rode it around the block! Came back then grab a pedal wrench tighten it. Instant fix! Hopefully yours is just from the pedal as its an easy fix. He told me that pedals should be very tight!


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## Dr_J (Jan 15, 2004)

*Another First Ride(s) report...*

For the last few years I have been looking for a new ride to replace 2 aging full suspension rigs. During the fits and starts of my search I have done test rides and demos on about 20 different bikes none quite felt like the one. The Kona Process and the Stump 650 were darn close but not quite there. I have a long standing love of larger volume tires going back to the Ground Control Extreme 2.5 in the early 90's so when I first heard about the "plus sized revolution" I felt the need to give it a try. When I rode the 6Fattie it just felt right from the first pedal stroke, so I made the plunge and purchased an orange alloy comp as quickly as I could find my old stumpy a new home. I now have 4 real rides on the new beast on mostly mellow advanced beginner to intermediate terrain and here are my early thoughts to add to the glut of opinions out there about this bike....

Rider: grossly out of shape clyde with advanced skills, riding mountain bikes since I was in Jr. high school in the era of 6 speed freewheels and rear u brakes.

Bike setup: Stock with frog pedals. running tires tubeless
Tire pressure 15-16 rear, 17-18 front.

The ride: For comparison purposes, this bike is replacing an 02 stumpjumper FSR with a 100 mm fork (fox) and the rear end generally set at 75mm with a 2.1" rear and 2.3" front tire and an 03 Norco Fluid with 5.3" in the back and 5" in the front with a 2.35 rear and 2.5" front tire
Climbing: With this bike I was looking for a ride that would be comfortable all day and be bearable on the inevitable long grinding climbs. To that end, this bike as been utterly surprising. While not likely to win to many hill climb races, this is a bike that you can spin all day and it doesn't feel like you are trying to push a pig, even with its 3" rubber and 30 lbs of heft. The Norco, on the other hand was shear misery even on a mild fire road climb (though always surprisingly spry on steep technical climbs). I haven't done much technical climbing in these first few rides but on the short technical climbs I have completed the bike has been great. The only issue I have run into is that the wheel base is just a little to long for some lines that I have been riding for years on my 26" bikes. There is one corner that I have been riding for 14 years that you basically thread the needle between 2 rocks while turning 90 degrees. Both times I have hung my front wheel on the fattie, but ultimately I think it is just a matter of getting my timing right with the bigger wheel. The first time up this slope was a bit of a disaster but once I adjusted for the gearing and larger wheels the second run was mostly a stunning success.

Going down... This bike is the fast, solid, if not somewhat overly tame downhiller that I expect from Specialized. Like my last stumpjumper you have to push it in the corners more than some other bikes but it is always predictable and stays on line. I did find that it had a tendency to pull to the high side on higher speed corners the first 2 rides but bumping the tire pressure 2 psi all but cured that. On a long descent with numerous small steps and softball sized skree the bike was more solid and easier to hold on line than any I have taken down this particular section. I have yet to come close to bottoming out the rear but haven't hit anything really big yet. The front end, however has been a little disappointing as I'm only using about 1/2 the travel in the fork with appropriate sag and compression open(I'm actually running almost 10 psi less than recommended for my weight)

Technical terrain: Again, experience is limited thus far, but I have no problems getting the front end up and I have literally floated over some sections that can be a problem on 26" wheels if you don't hit them just right. After reading far to many reviews and most of this thread I was a little hyperfocused on pedal strikes the first time I took it through the rough stuff. At first I seemed to hit everything, not because the bike is too low, but because I was so hyperfocused on not slapping the pedals I managed to mistime just about everything. Then I stopped thinking and just rode and guess what? I have had 2 pedal strikes since, one that ANY bike I own would have hit and the other was just plain bad position coming out of a corner. The reality is after 16+ years of stumjumper FSR's their engineers still can't seem to get over their obsession with low, stable BB's. This bike is no worse than my old stumpy, which was only about 12 1/2" at the 90mm travel setting and is positively tall when compared to their worst offender, The first generation Enduro, which to this day had the worst pedal strike of any bike I have ever ridden. With good timing and smart lines the bottom bracket height is a non issue as far as I'm concerned.

The bits...
The frame: Thank you specialized for selling bikes with minimal graphics. I love the clean look and its nice not to advertise every technical feature of the frame as I ride by. I went alloy because unless I drop 30lbs there is no point what so ever spending an extra grand for carbon, and even then the only real world advantage the comp carbon has is the swat box

Drive train: The gx 1x11 has been flawless so far with only a minor cable adjustment after the 3rd ride. the bottom bracket/drive side crank arm loosened up after the second ride then 2 more times on the third after which I readjusted everything from scratch. So far has stayed tight since

Brakes: They work, wish there was more adjustability though. I did somehow snap a cable guide on the first or second ride. I hope they go internal with the rear brake housing on future iterations.

The controls: I have always hated triggers, so far still do, but that is a personal taste sort of thing. The bar position felt like crap the first couple of rides. After ride three I dropped the stem 1 spacer, rotated the bars up because the shop had over rotated them and all is better. not a huge fan of the grips but I don't feel like replacing them just yet.

The post and saddle: Oh command post, where have you been for the last 28 years of my riding life?? The saddle on the other hand is ok but will likely be gone in the near future

Wheels and tires: I think the 29mm ID rim controversy is a bit overblown, though in my case I may be a little biased here. I have been riding historically large volume tires at low pressures for a very long time on relatively narrow rims including the 2.5" ground control extreme on a mavic 230 (~20mm) back in the early 90's and a WTB timberwolf (a WIDE 2.5) on the 23mm Sun DS2 xc more recently on the Norco. I have always liked the rounded profile this affords as it gives much more bite in the corners and a little less rolling resistance. I haven't note any excessive squirm so far and love how far I can lean into the corners without breaking loose. I love the purgatory up front. The jury is still out on the Ground control. It doesn't have quite the bite of the purgatory and I am noting some very minor weeping around the bead.

The initial verdict... 
So far this bike has met or exceeded all of my expectations. The issues I have had have been minor and more the rider than the bike. If all goes as planned this week I will get it out into more advanced terrain and see what she is really capable of. If you are looking for a plush, surprisingly spry all day, all purpose trail bike this may be the ride you are looking for...


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Dr_J said:


> ... The front end, however has been a little disappointing as I'm only using about 1/2 the travel in the fork with appropriate sag and compression open (I'm actually running almost 10 psi less than recommended for my weight)...


Nice review, doc!

You might try removing air spacers (tokens) from the left fork tube. This will make the resistance less progressive and allow more travel mid-stroke. Just remove the air cap with a 26mm spanner and snap out one or two of the yellow spacers. It's a 3 min job and easy to switch back if you don't like it.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

levity said:


> Nice review, doc!
> 
> You might try removing air spacers (tokens) from the left fork tube. This will make the resistance less progressive and allow more travel mid-stroke. Just remove the air cap with a 26mm spanner and snap out one or two of the yellow spacers. It's a 3 min job and easy to switch back if you don't like it.


The fox tuning guide recommends 68 psi for my 150lbs. I typically trail ride with 40-45 psi. 50-55psi is high enough for trails with 3-5 foot drops. Anything bigger than that and I'll grab a more appropriate bike! Stock volume spacers for me. I think the progressiveness is about right for me.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Link to the tuning guide in case anyone hasn't seen it:
http://www.ridefox.com/2016/dl/bike/605-00-136-revB.pdf


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> My apologies in advance if this has already been posted, but has anyone put a 29er wheelset on their 6fattie? Wonder if a high volume 29 tire will fit, or just a low profile 29er tire?


It fits almost everything... rear accepts up to a 29x2.7-ish tire size. (i.e. Fat B Nimble 29x3.0). Look under my username or search for the Kappius Wheel thread. I have all of these combos pictured on my 6fattie. (29x2.4 / 29x3.0 / 27.5x3.0)


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

majr said:


> The fox tuning guide recommends 68 psi for my 150lbs. I typically trail ride with 40-45 psi. 50-55psi is high enough for trails with 3-5 foot drops. Anything bigger than that and I'll grab a more appropriate bike! Stock volume spacers for me. I think the progressiveness is about right for me.


What is funny is I run more pressure in my 34 than I do in my 2011 36 and yet I find the 36 much harder to bottom out and I have to run higher low-speed compression to keep it up in the travel. I much prefer my 34 over the 36 even though it's not as stiff and 10mm lower travel.


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## Dr_J (Jan 15, 2004)

That's the plan, I figure I'll pull one and see what happens. The fork should be well broken in by now and I barely get the desired sag at 10 psi less than recommended for my weight. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get out in the chunky stuff later in the week...


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

I had been mulling over a bike purchase for many weeks now and could not make my mind up between the 6fattie, 650b SJ and the YT Jeffsy.
I have to say this whole thread really helped make my mind up and last Thursday I picked up a Carbon Comp 6fattie. Only 2 rides in so far, but I'm so impressed. So thank you mtbr.

Here it is on it's maiden ride.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Drevil said:


> I'm now officially in the Badly Creaking BB Club after two months of owning my S-Works. I'm 95% certain the "click, click, click, creak" is coming from the bottom bracket while I pedal up any hill...





Murchman said:


> Have you checked to see if it's the pedals?





don1 said:


> Hi drevil! I had this problem a month ago! Brought it back to the shop! Head technician rode it around the block! Came back then grab a pedal wrench tighten it. Instant fix! Hopefully yours is just from the pedal as its an easy fix. He told me that pedals should be very tight!


A few days ago, I took off my XX1 cranks, and cleaned up the spindle, spacers, and around the bearings (with a wipedown, but no degreaser/cleanser), slathered grease all over everything, put it back together, and wiped off any excess grease. Then I went for a ride...

"Creaky, creaky, creaky,..." Uggggh.

I then took apart my headset including the crown race, wiped down everything, including the bearings and spacers, clean. I worked as much grease I could force back into the bearings, greased anywhere I thought any part of the headset touched another part of the bike (headtube, fork crown, etc.). I reassembled and wiped up any excess, then went for another ride.

"Creaky, creaky, creaky..." WTF?!!?

After reading don and Murch's posts again, I decided to remove my pedals, wiped everything clean, then I _removed_ 3 pedal spacers (2 on non-drive, 1 on driveside) that either Specialized or my shop installed when I gave them my original pedals, greased all the threads liberally, reinstalled the pedals with a heavy hand, and went for a spin.

The silence was deafening!  I sprinted up and down hills that would normally produce such a racket it would wake up the neighbors, but this time, it was quiet down there. There is a very occasional, tiny, different click, but I think that one's coming from the seatpost.

So in my case, I believe it was the presence of these stupid pedal spacers that was producing the loud, obnoxious creaking and in turn, driving me mad for several weeks. Try doing this first if you start to get the creaking.


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## dclxvi (Jul 18, 2008)

*Got knocked down by a tire burb*

Got to try a 6fattie this weekend. Rode it on technical downhill-ish trails and up hills on similar but less steep trail.

This bike is FUN, very smooth and all.

But it does feel imprecise and vague on technical terrain. That trait was particularly evident on softer soil. I think that the combination of tire volume and softer terrain (thick mud) took a lot of feedback out of the steering. My feeling is that it will take some time to get use to that lack of feedback and learn to steer the bike in these conditions.

But other than that, what a bike! So much fun, perfect for stress-free trail rides.

I did experience my weirdest mountain bike crash ever on this bike. I wheelie dropped a 2-foot ledge, landed safely on my back wheel, but when my front wheel touched the ground, the tire burped so violently that I got kicked off the bike! I went flying on my side, head over heels, but un-scratched, fun stuff.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Drevil said:


> A few days ago, I took off my XX1 cranks, and cleaned up the spindle, spacers, and around the bearings (with a wipedown, but no degreaser/cleanser), slathered grease all over everything, put it back together, and wiped off any excess grease. Then I went for a ride...
> 
> "Creaky, creaky, creaky,..." Uggggh.
> 
> ...


So glad it was the simpler solution. With my Ibis Mojo HD I had a creak that I could not figure out for anything, I took everyone the apart down to the pivots and didn't solve it until the day I went to change the front derailleur cable and the seat tube cable stop was loose just a little bit so when the tube flex just a bit during pedaling it would creak. After I tightened it I never heard the creaking again. Took me 2 years to learn the lesson that frames carry the sound and make it difficult to find the real location of an issue.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

*Creaking bike*

Snug the rear axle. Quick thing to do and it worked for me.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Plusforever said:


> Snug the rear axle. Quick thing to do and it worked for me.


This. 100% this. Red-faced, embarrassed, laugh-at-me this 

So it was fairly quiet when I was hammering on the neighborhood trails after taking off the pedal spacers, but the minute I took it on real singletrack, the creaking came right back.

I stopped, and in frustration, snugged up my rear axle really tight because I ran out of ideas. Lo and behold, it was truly quiet, and remained quiet for the remaining 5 miles of hammering up and down the trail.

I feel like a dolt, but I'm glad the bike is quiet again. Looks like I don't need to buy a new bike after all!


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Drevil said:


> This. 100% this. Red-faced, embarrassed, laugh-at-me this
> 
> So it was fairly quiet when I was hammering on the neighborhood trails after taking off the pedal spacers, but the minute I took it on real singletrack, the creaking came right back.
> 
> ...


My rear thru axle spun itself loose several times when it was new. Even on trails where it definitely wasn't getting hit on rocks/stumps/etc. No idea why. But it hasn't happened in the past few months for me...


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

I need to change tires to my bike. Has anyone tried this combo for enduro style trails?

- nobby nick trailstar in front 
- rocket ron 3.0 in rear 

Are they better than the default tires from specy?


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## catnash (Jan 14, 2004)

*Ordered*

Just ordered a small aluminium comp, going back to have a good read. There was no news on the 17's for the price I got 1 couldnt resist.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

catnash said:


> Just ordered a small aluminium comp, going back to have a good read. There was no news on the 17's for the price I got 1 couldnt resist.


There will always be the next best thing on the horizon, enjoy your ride and the better price.


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## catnash (Jan 14, 2004)

A few questions...does it come with tubeless valves in the box? Or do I just order a pair? I have plenty of Roval tape? or is there a wider tape?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

catnash said:


> A few questions...does it come with tubeless valves in the box? Or do I just order a pair? I have plenty of Roval tape? or is there a wider tape?


Should come with the valves and the rims are pre-taped so just pull the tubes, stick in the valves, add sealant, and away you go.


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## catnash (Jan 14, 2004)

Murchman said:


> Should come with the valves and the rims are pre-taped so just pull the tubes, stick in the valves, add sealant, and away you go.


Cheers, off to order some stans.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

New topic:

I finally took the plunge and got a 50mm stem. My sz Large 6fattie came with a stock 75mm stem, I changed it to a 70mm (big jump right? ha), and now a 50mm.

I know this is not new to a lot of people to go short but I have been hesitant to embrace the stubby. I must say that I am very happy with the decision thus far and feel like my riding position is much more suited to the geometry of the bike. I do notice that the front is lighter on the steep climbs but nothing so severe that I gave up any riding pleasure. 

Anywho, just throwing it out there to anyone on the fence about going shorter... it's worth a shot to try it.

John


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

I have a quite frustrating creacky noise on mine, it seems to be the BB...
Some guys said it's pretty normal on Specialized bikes... that doesn't make much sense though.. the bearings should be Sram right?


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

inglese said:


> I have a quite frustrating creacky noise on mine, it seems to be the BB...
> Some guys said it's pretty normal on Specialized bikes... that doesn't make much sense though.. the bearings should be Sram right?


Check the cranks are tight too. I had similar and it was a loose drive side crank arm.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Is the multi tool sold seperately? I've seen one that comes with a case that bolts to the bottle cage, but I wanted just the tool that I can fit in the frame above the rear shock.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

mugstud said:


> Is the multi tool sold seperately? I've seen one that comes with a case that bolts to the bottle cage, but I wanted just the tool that I can fit in the frame above the rear shock.


Mine came with it but not all models do, I have really grown to love the tool when at first I thought it was a gimmick and would fall out on rough trail but now I couldn't imagine not having it.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Mine came with it but not all models do, I have really grown to love the tool when at first I thought it was a gimmick and would fall out on rough trail but now I couldn't imagine not having it.


Yeah, I got the carbon comp which doesn't come with the tools. I have a tool that I put in my pocket as the rest of my spares/repair stuff has been tucked away in the frame. I love not having to take the camelbak when I go out for just a few hours.
Would be nice to have the tool in the frame though as I'm often just about to set off and then remember I've left the multi tool behind.


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## inglese (May 13, 2016)

mugstud said:


> Check the cranks are tight too. I had similar and it was a loose drive side crank arm.


Thanks, I'll try it!


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

Drevil said:


> This. 100% this. Red-faced, embarrassed, laugh-at-me this
> 
> So it was fairly quiet when I was hammering on the neighborhood trails after taking off the pedal spacers, but the minute I took it on real singletrack, the creaking came right back.
> 
> ...


Awesome!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

tcianca said:


> I need to change tires to my bike. Has anyone tried this combo for enduro style trails?
> 
> - nobby nick trailstar in front
> - rocket ron 3.0 in rear
> ...


There are definitely folks who have tried that combo and been very happy - on the Norco Torrent, I believe - but I don't know whether anyone has compared them to the PC/GC or PC/PC combo. (Check the Fuse thread maybe.). It's probably time to start a thread comparing plus tire combinations, now that there are so many coming out.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

I've run all three combos, NN/RR, P/GC and P/P, on my 6Fattie. I switched from the OEM Purg/Ground Control to Purgs front and rear to get a bit more traction in back. The newer Purgs and GCs I received on warranty due to side wall sealant leaking gained some weight (from 960/920 to 1000/960g) in the process of beefing up the sidewalls. For that reason I switched to a Nobby Nic (896g) in front and a Rocket Ron (817g) in back. The NN is at least as grippy as the Purg; the RR gives up a little bite compared even to the GC but handles predictably. All have been reliable (other than the slow sidewall seepage of the original P/GC), but I prefer the livelier feel of the lighter Schwalbe tires to the Specialized versions.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

levity said:


> I've run all three combos, NN/RR, P/GC and P/P, on my 6Fattie. I switched from the OEM Purg/Ground Control to Purgs front and rear to get a bit more traction in back. The newer Purgs and GCs I received on warranty due to side wall sealant leaking gained some weight (from 960/920 to 1000/960g) in the process of beefing up the sidewalls. For that reason I switched to a Nobby Nic (896g) in front and a Rocket Ron (817g) in back. The NN is at least as grippy as the Purg; the RR gives up a little bite compared even to the GC but handles predictably. All have been reliable (other than the slow sidewall seepage of the original P/GC), but I prefer the livelier feel of the lighter Schwalbe tires to the Specialized versions.


very thorough. thanx for sharing yoyr experience!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

tcianca said:


> I need to change tires to my bike. Has anyone tried this combo for enduro style trails?
> 
> - nobby nick trailstar in front
> - rocket ron 3.0 in rear
> ...


I have seen the Nobby Nic on a mounted rim side by side with my Purgatory on the front, and the NN looks chunkier - larger knobs and wider spacing between the knobs. I personally had to switch to a Rocket Ron in the rear, and while not quite as chunky as the Ground Control, I think it provides better rolling resistance and grip over the Ground Control due to a softer rubber compound.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Due to my fruitless perusal of my LBS and Specialized for the warranty of my leaking Purgatory, I had bought a NN and have 2 Purgatorys ordered from overseas. Thinking of a NN or Purg front and Purg rear.

Might try out a NN or RR rear if the sealant leak persist on the new Spesh tires.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

darkhorse13 said:


> New topic:
> 
> I finally took the plunge and got a 50mm stem. My sz Large 6fattie came with a stock 75mm stem, I changed it to a 70mm (big jump right? ha), and now a 50mm.
> 
> ...


I have a 50mm stem laying around, but the stock one is sooo sexy! Perhaps I'll try the 50mm this weekend... Did you feel more stable when in the air?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Air sleeve update. Wet weather makes it hard to test suspension so it took a bit longer to run the test with no volume spacers. I am now running just the EVOL sleeve and no spacers. The great news is I am not bottoming out and the small bump compliance is way better than before and I still have the nice plush bottomless feel I love.

I am going to stick with no spacers and 300psi for 15mm of sag. I would test it with less sag but not having a pump that goes above 300psi makes it really hard to be accurate.


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## 9GUY9 (Jul 14, 2007)

After spending a weekend trip riding around jumps I've determined the 6Fattie is more bike than I need.

If anyone if looking to save some change on a like new Orange Comp.

Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 6fattie 27 - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> Did you feel more stable when in the air?


I am riding a 760mm bar and don't feel any less stable descending or cornering with the 50mm. Again, climbing is lighter in the front though.

If someone told you that I can jump a bike you've been lied to  Drevil can attest to some super sweet air time though on his 6fattie. there's apicture he posted a while back of him getting like 3-4ft of air. Seemed stable to me... ha


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I have been running 40mm/50mm stems and 780mm bars for years now on all my bikes. Short and wide makes for a very fun bike. You will adjust your climbing and not even notice a light front end after a few rides.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hey everyone, 
Got EVERYTHING I need for the EVOL air sleeve swap now. Fox is apparently out of the spacer kits but if you ask nicely they might sell them to individually (I opted for a small and large spacer, but they do make a medium which i didn't purchase for some reason) as they did for me  Also be sure to ask for a new sleeve sticker for your 3-pos lever pictures... sleeve does not come with one. Finally, I forgot to ask Fox for a pillow pouch of Float Fluid (5cc) but luckily my LBS had them around the shop for $3. These little suckers are cheap online but shipping is CRAZY... like 3x the price of the pillow. Fox recommends 2.5cc of Float Fluid upon reassembly, so one little pillow will go for an upgrade plus a sleeve dust wiper/seal maintenance down the road.

John


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey everyone,
> Got EVERYTHING I need for the EVOL air sleeve swap now. Fox is apparently out of the spacer kits but if you ask nicely they might sell them to individually (I opted for a small and large spacer, but they do make a medium which i didn't purchase for some reason) as they did for me  Also be sure to ask for a new sleeve sticker for your 3-pos lever pictures... sleeve does not come with one. Finally, I forgot to ask Fox for a pillow pouch of Float Fluid (5cc) but luckily my LBS had them around the shop for $3. These little suckers are cheap online but shipping is CRAZY... like 3x the price of the pillow. Fox recommends 2.5cc of Float Fluid upon reassembly, so one little pillow will go for an upgrade plus a sleeve dust wiper/seal maintenance down the road.
> 
> John


Nice I look forward to your thoughts on it. I have grown to like the non-sticker look of the shock and haven't put them on yet.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

mugstud said:


> Yeah, I got the carbon comp which doesn't come with the tools. I have a tool that I put in my pocket as the rest of my spares/repair stuff has been tucked away in the frame. I love not having to take the camelbak when I go out for just a few hours.
> Would be nice to have the tool in the frame though as I'm often just about to set off and then remember I've left the multi tool behind.


Apparently Specialized UK have just got the tools in. I have one on order which should be here next couple of days, which is good as my old one must've fallen out my pocket on Sunday.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey everyone,
> Got EVERYTHING I need for the EVOL air sleeve swap now. Fox is apparently out of the spacer kits but if you ask nicely they might sell them to individually (I opted for a small and large spacer, but they do make a medium which i didn't purchase for some reason) as they did for me  Also be sure to ask for a new sleeve sticker for your 3-pos lever pictures... sleeve does not come with one. Finally, I forgot to ask Fox for a pillow pouch of Float Fluid (5cc) but luckily my LBS had them around the shop for $3. These little suckers are cheap online but shipping is CRAZY... like 3x the price of the pillow. Fox recommends 2.5cc of Float Fluid upon reassembly, so one little pillow will go for an upgrade plus a sleeve dust wiper/seal maintenance down the road.
> 
> John


instead of upgrading the stock shox, why not go for a more plush one like the https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/monarch-plus-rc3
eventually with debonair can?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

tcianca said:


> instead of upgrading the stock shox, why not go for a more plush one like the https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/monarch-plus-rc3
> eventually with debonair can?


Air sleeve cost $50, new shock cost $500 and it weights more.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Murchman said:


> Air sleeve cost $50, new shock cost $500 and it weights more.


how much is the kashima air sleeve?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Air sleeve cost $50, new shock cost $500 and it weights more.


^THIS...

trust me, i had the RS Monarch Debonair in my shopping cart for the longest time but after reading about the air sleeve upgrade I knew this would be a more cost effective alternative. I've never had an "issue" with the Fox other than blowing thru the travel. But with a little research and help from the forum that's an easy thing to tweak. Knowing how the shock "works" now, I am confident between the sleeve and volume spacers I can get the ride that I want without just starting over. Don't get me wrong, if I had the cash I'd still by the RS Monarch Debonair just to try it


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> ^THIS...
> 
> trust me, i had the RS Monarch Debonair in my shopping cart for the longest time but after reading about the air sleeve upgrade I knew this would be a more cost effective alternative. I've never had an "issue" with the Fox other than blowing thru the travel. But with a little research and help from the forum that's an easy thing to tweak. Knowing how the shock "works" now, I am confident between the sleeve and volume spacers I can get the ride that I want without just starting over. Don't get me wrong, if I had the cash I'd still by the RS Monarch Debonair just to try it


And what is the exact model for our bike. Can you please link it to me to also check the price?
If it is better than the fox with evol sleeve It would be a good option and keep the stock as spare


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> And what is the exact model for our bike. Can you please link it to me to also check the price?
> If it is better than the fox with evol sleeve It would be a good option and keep the stock as spare


Our 6fattie rear shock is a 197x48mm or 7.75" x 1.90". I don't believe that there is a Monarch Plus Debonair AutoSag option but please don't quote me. The last time I looked (using Jenson USA as a reference) the shock was $449-ish. I also attached a very early screen shot from Specialized's FAQ page. Not saying that this is all inclusive but it's a starting point. There are a few posts in this forum where another member outlined the exact part # for the RS Monarch Debonair but I can't locate at the moment (I think somewhere in pages 20-30?)

I can't comment whether the RS Monarch Debonair is "better". I am sure it has a different feel but I've never ridden one. Murchman has found the air sleeve to work really well and solve his ridding whoas for the time being. The Fox EVOL seems to take care of (2) big issues... Progressive spring curve to prevent bottoming out (with option to run additional volume spacers) and improved small bump compliance.

I have not installed mine yet but hope to over the next week. I was willing to gamble $70 for the EVOL vs $400+ for a new shock just because I like the Debonair remote reservoir and the way it looks. Yes, I am attracted to shiny new things.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

I found the monarch plus here, available at the end of june

https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Rear-Shock-Monarch-Plus-RC3-DebonAir-with-specially-Tune-2016

they also told me "we cannot confirm if it´s fit with exactly... 197x47.6mm vs 197 mm x 48
It´s your decision, we cannot recommend this"

any suggestion about the 2 mm difference in size?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

tcianca said:


> I found the monarch plus here, available at the end of june
> 
> https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Rear-Shock-Monarch-Plus-RC3-DebonAir-with-specially-Tune-2016
> 
> ...


I'd get an exact part number from the vendor and call SRAM to verify. Or just reach out to SRAM first and gather the part number(s) then cross check with the vendor. I'd not recommend pulling the trigger on a $400+ part that might not be correct.

Are you opposed to trying out the EVOL sleeve first? What are your current issues with the shock?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

tcianca said:


> I found the monarch plus here, available at the end of june
> 
> https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Rear-Shock-Monarch-Plus-RC3-DebonAir-with-specially-Tune-2016
> 
> ...


Won't that be 0.4mm so less than half a mm difference?


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2016)

Twimby said:


> Won't that be 0.4mm so less than half a mm difference?


based upon the numbers listed above that's correct. quite easy to error .4mm.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> I'd get an exact part number from the vendor and call SRAM to verify. Or just reach out to SRAM first and gather the part number(s) then cross check with the vendor. I'd not recommend pulling the trigger on a $400+ part that might not be correct.
> 
> Are you opposed to trying out the EVOL sleeve first? What are your current issues with the shock?


Should I write to sram to get the exact part numer ?

Yes, probably i shuld try the evol sleeve first, I was just considering the monarch plus because i think it is better for aggressive enduro trails.

The corrent shock bottoms out very easily and it is not as plush as I would like.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I can say without a doubt the EVOL sleeve makes a huge difference in how the shock performs and I am shocked  Specialized hasn't switched like almost all other manufactures to the EVOL. The only reason I would want a piggy back shock now is if I was doing mostly downhill runs and was worried about fading.

I have a CCDB Air on my Ibis Mojo HD and really like the shock but it doesn't have the small bump compliance the EVOL does so I am ordering a EVOL sleeve for the Float shock it came stock with. I will use the CCDB Air for park riding but for trail riding the Float EVOL will be a better option


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Murchman said:


> I can say without a doubt the EVOL sleeve makes a huge difference in how the shock performs and I am shocked  Specialized hasn't switched like almost all other manufactures to the EVOL. The only reason I would want a piggy back shock now is if I was doing mostly downhill runs and was worried about fading.
> 
> I have a CCDB Air on my Ibis Mojo HD and really like the shock but it doesn't have the small bump compliance the EVOL does so I am ordering a EVOL sleeve for the Float shock it came stock with. I will use the CCDB Air for park riding but for trail riding the Float EVOL will be a better option


 I am finally convinced to try the evol sleeve. I have called fox europe and they told me that the part number I indicated (806-29-431-KIT) for the kashima version is not compatible. Any suggestion ? 
Can you please confirm again the exact part #?

thanx a lot


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Here is my invoice


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

thanx! mine is a european version of the bike, a 6fattie expert carbon.

https://www.specialized.com/it/it/b...per-fsr/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-6fattie/107080

Do you think the shox version can be different from yours as fox told me the sleeve is not compatible?

I want to be sure before ordering because there's no return policy...


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

There should be a 4 digit code on your shock mine is C23J. You can call up Fox USA and give them your code and they will tell you for sure. I doubt they would use different shocks across the pond but you never know.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Whats up guys? Wealth of info in here. I ride a 6fattie comp and my girl rides a 6fattie rhyme. I was curious can I run a 2.8 tire on the stock rims? I put the deity bars with the hope 35 mm stem on my bike, I highly recommend it for anyone looking for a bit more of an aggressive ride with this bike. Sorry to interrupt the suspension talk, its making me want to order the kit from Fox after I read more.

Anyways, I appreciate any help and look forward to being apart of this community. #fattie


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

lvkid89 said:


> Whats up guys? Wealth of info in here. I ride a 6fattie comp and my girl rides a 6fattie rhyme. I was curious can I run a 2.8 tire on the stock rims? I put the deity bars with the hope 35 mm stem on my bike, I highly recommend it for anyone looking for a bit more of an aggressive ride with this bike. Sorry to interrupt the suspension talk, its making me want to order the kit from Fox after I read more.
> 
> Anyways, I appreciate any help and look forward to being apart of this community. #fattie


The stock rims are only 29mm internal. You can run a 2.3 on it if you so desire 

Point being, the stock rims are narrow to begin with and you'd be better with a rim upgrade to 35mm-40mm inner width to really support a 2.8-3.0in tire.

^^^ there's a TON of rim width debate in this thread as well as multiple others so we'll leave that topic closed here for now  PM if you want a list of threads to read about rim width... i saved a majority of the constructive ones.


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

lvkid89 said:


> Whats up guys? Wealth of info in here. I ride a 6fattie comp and my girl rides a 6fattie rhyme. I was curious can I run a 2.8 tire on the stock rims? I put the deity bars with the hope 35 mm stem on my bike, I highly recommend it for anyone looking for a bit more of an aggressive ride with this bike. Sorry to interrupt the suspension talk, its making me want to order the kit from Fox after I read more.
> 
> Anyways, I appreciate any help and look forward to being apart of this community. #fattie


Welcome here! Consider that running a 2.8 tire would lower the BB wich is already very low and often causes pedal trikes. I would not do it...


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Murchman said:


> There should be a 4 digit code on your shock mine is C23J. You can call up Fox USA and give them your code and they will tell you for sure. I doubt they would use different shocks across the pond but you never know.


Mine is C2TY. I will then check with fox usa. Thanx a lot


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

tcianca said:


> Mine is C2TY. I will then check with fox usa. Thanx a lot


tcianca,

I'm having an Expert 6Fattie too, having the Kasihma coated shock. Is it the shock tune that is different from the Comp Carbon models?

Using up most of the shock stroke too even though I'm a 66kg all in ride weight, and I'm not doing drops more than 3ft.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

According to Fox yours is

2016, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K 3pos-Adj, SV, Autosag Strut, Specialized, SJ 6FATTIE I.1, 7.75, 1.875, CL, RM, CMF

The S-works is

2016, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K 3pos-Adj, SV, Autosag Strut, Specialized, SJ 6FATTIE I.1, 7.75, 1.875, CL, RM, CMF

Bike Help Center | FOX

So it looks like the same sleeve will work.


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## thegock (Jan 21, 2014)

Specialized 6fattie FSR Stumpjumper Comp (Aluminum) First thoughts:


I started to consider this bike at the beginning of 2016, when @treeman picked one up in carbon and was quite happy. My thought was that the combination of generous tires and full squish would be an easier every day ride on my back than my FS Tallboy (race bike) or hardtail Fatboy (SNOW, mud, backup). I don’t have any back problems at age 61, but I like to ride six days a week with 3-4 of those rides on trails and some of those MTB rides are up to three hours.

Besides the OEM specs, Jim at Hilltop set it up with a Thompson carbon bar and matching stem, Nextie Jungle Fox 52mm rims with I9 hubs and the Vittoria Bomboloni 3” tires running tubeless, instead of the OEM GC and Purgatory. The seat is an S2 last from Selle Italia. YBMV…

I have four rides on the 27+ so far. First ride was a 12 mile shake out ride at low intensity effort that my wife insisted I take. (Whoops, forgot to get a water bottle cage and a bell.) The second ride was a three hour, 26 mile effort with one five minute effort that was somewhat successful at generating a good result. Two thirds of the way through the ride, I brought it to the shop for some more tweaks.

That same evening, I did 12 miles at Fun Monday at Chimney Rock, rolling out of the Ballfield lot. It is usually difficult for me to hang with this ride even at a very high effort level, however, there were a lot of new faces and, because it is a no-drop ride, I could hang. The crazy thing was that one of guys who showed up was a “Fat is the only way to go” bud, who was rolling the same bike in the same matte orange (Gallardo) color. Every few minutes, @goodvibe said something along the lines of “I really like this bike”.

On the rocky CR trails, especially High Tech Vosseller, the 6fattie was very capable. It steps over boulders with 160mm of travel up front. The 3’’ tires cruise over the chunder of rock carpeted trail. The biggest surprise is that it climbed those switchbacks easily. I had the tire pressure at 14 lbs, which was too high, causing a slip out on the steepest left hand switchback. Next time, I would take it down to 12.5 PSI or lower. Coming down from Miller to Gilbride, the bike excelled. 

The next day, my back felt fine. I did some low intensity rail trail with a couple of guys, then about five miles of the Nassau trails east of High Bridge. The Specialized dropper post, which I have never had before, is still not perfect, but that is the only complaint that I have about the 6fattie. That will get resolved in the next week or so.

The bike is faster than I expected and as comfortable as I had hoped. The bottom bracket is a bit lower than the Tallboy and I have had a couple more pedal strikes in the first 50 miles of single track than normal, but I am such a conservative rider that I probably don’t have “enough” pedal strikes. Dialing this bike in will be an enjoyable process.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I have found completely leaving the suspension in "descend" mode and lowering the pressure of the tires (12psi front, 14psi rear) will give a very comfortable ride, yet have enough for hard cornering and rocking over crazy stuff that normal bikes shouldn't do. Pedal strikes are a given, but I think they will start to be more common as bike manufacturers start lowering the bb. 

Welcome to the club!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Rode at Silver Mountain bike park yesterday. There is a double-track road that links the upper and lower sections that you have to ride down for about 1/2 mile. Lots of loose rocks and shale, etc. Was up against a new Evil Wreckoning 29er, Specialized Demo, Giant Anthem, Transition 450, and a new Giant Glory. I passed all 5 riders (we were all coasting) and where they were getting beat up, I felt like I was on completely smooth trail. 

The bike is fast man.


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## Dr_J (Jan 15, 2004)

Some updates from the "First Rides" report I filed a couple of weeks ago...
I have since gotten out into some more serious terrain including, finally, some technical climbing and I have a few new observations/insights...
I removed 1 volume spacer from the fork, performance vastly improved. It is much more responsive and I'm consistently using more travel and still haven't bottomed the fork

The magic self loosening crank arm returned during a 2 hour outing in technical terrain. Brought it into the shop, they took a look, readjusted the cranks and torqued the s*#t out of the bolt. If it comes loose again the next step is to warranty the crank and BB
Once again, traction is astounding, missed my normal line through a steep, tight, rocky switchback yet was able to somehow power through. 

In general the bike climbs well. I have found that after 28+years on 26" wheels there is a surprisingly steep learning curve in regards to getting my timing right on uphill obstacles with short run ups. I seem to be 1/2 a stroke late on all of them and got hung up a few too many times. The timing has finally started to come around though.

I'm not a huge fan of the ground control in the back in rougher terrain, it seems to get pushed around more than the purgatory up front. I'm going to stick with it for now but I will likely be looking at more aggressive treads in the near future, especially with the inevitable slew of new designs destined to hit the market this fall. I have no complaints at all about the purgatory up front.

I did note one odd characteristic in regards to the handling of the bike. The last 1 1/2 mile of the long techy ride I did is a downhill that starts on a ridgeline that is slightly off camber and exposed over most of its run. I found myself drifting with the pitch of the trail to the low side over and over again and felt like trail feedback was a little vague. I don't know if was a result tire pressure, tire size, a loose crank on the low side or simple fatigue but it was a little unnerving. I have never felt that sensation on another bike and have run the trail more than 100 times and often more spent than I was on this ride. Anyone else experience this sensation on plus sized tires? On the remainder of the downhills, which are moderately steep and range from flowing to rocky and back the bike was flawless, even if the rider wasn't.

Overall, I am quite pleased with the bike. It handles the way I expect a bike with the stumpjumper name to handle, suspension performance is solid, though I still have adjustments to make in the rear, mechanically it has been solid and dependable. It is the comfortable, capable all day rider I was looking for. Now I just need to master the technical climbs...


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

ok thank you I will then order it !
Did you finally use any token ?


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Double post


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> Here is my invoice


Thanks for posting this, Murch. I might order the same soon since I had to bump up the pressure to prevent bottom out, but miss the suppleness.

This is an aside, but I wanted to see how close the body of the EVOL sleeve would come to the frame (and possibly hit it). I depressurized my shock, and while doing it, I figured it would be a good time to see what water bottles fit. I've only used small so far, but it's getting hotter, and I need a little more juice on the rides.

Here are the bottles I tried. Click the link to see more details.


Trial Fittings of Water Bottles into the Stumpjumper by ricky d, on Flickr

TL;DR - The only bottle that didn't fit is the Polar.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

> The magic self loosening crank arm returned during a 2 hour outing in technical terrain. Brought it into the shop, they took a look, readjusted the cranks and torqued the s*#t out of the bolt. If it comes loose again the next step is to warranty the crank and BB..


I can't believe the torque spec for that crank bolt, it's hard to find a wrench that goes that high... 435-475 foot pounds!


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## Guest (Jun 20, 2016)

TEvans73 said:


> I can't believe the torque spec for that crank bolt, it's hard to find a wrench that goes that high... 435-475 foot pounds!


ummm i'll submit it's really 43.5ftlb-47.5ftlb.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Well I guess that's why mine hasn't come loose after that first time, LOL - my torque wrench only goes 200 foot pounds...


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## Guest (Jun 20, 2016)

TEvans73 said:


> Well I guess that's why mine hasn't come loose after that first time, LOL - my torque wrench only goes 200 foot pounds...


yup rekon so..


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## Dr_J (Jan 15, 2004)

That should be 425-478 INCH lbs, not ft. lbs. That is 36 ft lbs. which still quite a bit tighter than both square taper and splined BBs (~325 in. lbs)


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## Guest (Jun 20, 2016)

Dr_J said:


> That should be 425-478 INCH lbs, not ft. lbs. That is 36 ft lbs. which still quite a bit tighter than both square taper and splined BBs (~325 in. lbs)


ahh, upon further review we have even further clarification.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hey folks,
Quick update. I got my EVOL sleeve installed and ridden on the street tonight. Install was very easy, 3 bolts and the sleeve unscrews by hand once depressurized.

I may not be sensitive enough to the small bump compliance things but I will say that it feels every bit as smooth just rolling over some curbs and roots around the subdivision (the real ride comes tomorrow). I think I might actually slow down the rebound a touch now due to the higher pressure in the shock. 

Here's my specs...

1) Rider weight = 165lb
2) Shock psi = 215psi (I read somewhere that the extra volume sleeve psi starting point is body weight plus 50psi... maybe it was on Vorsrung's website for the Corset sleeve? Regardless, this formula got me very close).
3) Sag = 29% (measured in open mode and mid rebound setting - 8 clicks from slow). I calculated the length of the available shock shaft at 48mm (shock does not compress all the way). After bouncing around to loosen things up I settled onto the saddle. As I sat there I moved the o-ring back up to the dust wiper, then carefully dismounted... I ended up with ~14mm from the dust wiper to the top of the o-ring. 
4) Volume spacers = 0

I thought 28% might get me back into too plush/bottom out territory but after really jumping on the pedals and being intentionally abusive dropping off some curbs I don't get that harsh thud feeling at all like the stock sleeve. I feel like the shock is more robust on the hits and still just as plush. Again, I plan on hitting the trails tomorrow with my new upgrade. Unless this sleeve doesn't perform like it should I won't be regretting the $70 to test and tune. Oh, and I won't talk it up like it's the cure-all for suspension whoas on the 6fattie if it isn't... I'll shoot you all straight.

Lastly, I removed (1) spacer from the fork last ride while still maintaining the same 65psi for about 19% sag total (30mm from dust wiper to bottom of o-ring). I finally used all but about 5mm of available travel. Fork feels even better now. Suspension is almost dialed in.

John


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

The shock will not go all the way to the end of its travel, Specialized had Fox add a travel reduction spacer on the shock shaft so it will only travel down to the middle of the Kashima branding so your sag setting needs to account for that. The easiest way to see how far it will go down is to let the air out and bottom out the shock then take your sag setting based on that. Let me know if your's is different as I only have my shock to go by and what the fox guy told me the black washer was on the shaft that I never saw on any of my other shocks.

After saying all that I also use 15mm of sag as well.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Stoked to hear about this, can't wait to hear your ride report tomorrow!


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

darkhorse - Murchman is correct in that the shock travel is restricted. When I measured max travel as he describes I got 48mm (about 7mm from the bottom). Thus 15mm corresponds to about 31% sag, slightly more than the 28% you estimated. In any case, go with what works!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> The shock will not go all the way to the end of its travel, Specialized had Fox add a travel reduction spacer on the shock shaft so it will only travel down to the middle of the Kashima branding so your sag setting needs to account for that. The easiest way to see how far it will go down is to let the air out and bottom out the shock then take your sag setting based on that. Let me know if your's is different as I only have my shock to go by and what the fox guy told me the black washer was on the shaft that I never saw on any of my other shocks.
> 
> After saying all that I also use 15mm of sag as well.


I'm not sure what extra black washer you mean, but the effects of the spacer are apparent, as I've firmly bottomed mine out without the gasket travelling full distance. When you compare the specs to the shock itself, it's obvious. The shaft length measures 54mm, but the stroke length is only 47.6mm. (My wife tells me this is a common pattern with fatties.) Your 15mm sag setting, therefore, is only a touch more plush than recommended, but not at all unusual.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*Murchman, levity and phride*... i know i can always count on you for assistance. Thank you for the heads up and I can confirm that my non-Kashima coated shock does not travel the full length either when depressed. Granted, I don't have the Kashima logo to go off but I will now take sag measurements based off ~48mm of shaft.

I am going to reset sag to an 28% using 48mm as the total length = 13.4-14mm from wiper to o-ring.

Also, am I correct in needing to slow down rebound now that i run a higher pressure? Or is that incorrect logic?

Thanks,
John


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The pressure is within a larger volume, so not necessarily. When you compress an air spring, you are ramping up the pressure (the very definition of compression). The rebound damping is designed to control the behavior of the shock at this higher compressed pressure. However, because the initial volume is larger, the compression rate is lower and therefore the increase in pressure is less with the EVOL sleeve. In short, ride it unchanged (so you are only dialing in one variable at a time) and see what works.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> The pressure is within a larger volume, so not necessarily. When you compress an air spring, you are ramping up the pressure (the very definition of compression). The rebound damping is designed to control the behavior of the shock at this higher compressed pressure. However, because the initial volume is larger, the compression rate is lower and therefore the increase in pressure is less with the EVOL sleeve. In short, ride it unchanged (so you are only dialing in one variable at a time) and see what works.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Elegantly put and this was what i was trying to ask, albeit I couldn't put it into words 

I'll test and tune tonight.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> I'm not sure what extra black washer you mean, but the effects of the spacer are apparent, as I've firmly bottomed mine out without the gasket travelling full distance. When you compare the specs to the shock itself, it's obvious. The shaft length measures 54mm, but the stroke length is only 47.6mm. (My wife tells me this is a common pattern with fatties.) Your 15mm sag setting, therefore, is only a touch more plush than recommended, but not at all unusual.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Black washer is a bad name by me for what it actually is (which I don't know). If you open up the shock on the the inner shaft you will see a black spacer that limits the travel of the shock on the shaft. On the shaft is the bottom bumper, the bottom ring, and then on ours a bottom out spacer.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

*Fox EVOL sleeve impressions*

Hey everyone,
So I gave the new EVOL sleeve a nice 15 mile ride tonight over some very familiar trails. I didn't have time to hit the one trail with a nice 3ft drop to really hammer it but I did try to land a bit more heavy footed and be more aggressive than usual on the maiden voyage.

Overall impression = very worthy upgrade!

-> Small bump compliance is improved. I can say this with confidence that the ride quality over the small chatter is better. I switched to flat pedals about 6 rides ago and I am still adjusting. I find my feet sometimes hopping around on the pedals on the small/quick stuff. After today's ride I found myself more planted and stable. Riding with my rear end on the saddle also felt more smooth. I left the rebound the same as the Autosag sleeve.

-> I feel that there is more of a noticeable difference between Firm/Trail/Open modes now. Each mode seemed more distinct if that makes sense. Overall I preferred to stay in Trail for the majority of pedaling duties.

-> NO BOTTOMING OUT  I am currently set up with about 27% sag ( roughly 13.5mm of shaft between the dust wiper and top of o-ring.) I am not running any volume spacers. You can see from the picture where I netted out in max descend mode for both the fork and shock. On the trail I rode tonight, I was always blowing thru 100% of travel. Tonight though I bet I still had 5mm or more travel left in the shock. Here's the best part, the shock did not feel stiff or lacking squish even though I wasn't using all the travel. It still felt like I was utilizing all of the travel when I clearly did not. I will probably drop 5 psi to get closer to 30% sag and try it out. There was definitely no more "thud" feelings when I landed more aggressively.

I told you all I'd be honest with the review, and I am not exaggerating when I say the EVOL sleeve is a definite improvement over the stock Autosag sleeve. It's worth the $$$ if you are not super excited about how your 6fattie is bouncing in the back.

Finally, I bought a TIMBER! awareness bell from Amazon and I must say that I finally feel like a responsible MTB'er on the trail. The bell flips from constant on to complete silence and produces a nice, unobtrusive tone to alert walkers and other cyclists about your presence. I felt safer riding today than I have in a long time. Zero issues with fellow outdoor enthusiast today and I think we both appreciated it. I am an idiot for not having one of these sooner.

John


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Thanks for the info and your review of the ExtraVol can, John. I've been reading about it on the Fox site, and the added small bump compliance and mid-stroke support seem like good things. Time to place an order.

Yes, the Timber Bell is great! Both mrs levity and I ride with one. They've helped prevent collisions on tight blind singletrack, and hikers on the trail always tell us how they appreciate the ringing warning. I've grown to like the "music" while bouncing along.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Glad the sleeve worked out for you, can't wait for you to get some more saddle time with it. I see you put the decals on it, I still haven't done that.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Glad the sleeve worked out for you, can't wait for you to get some more saddle time with it. I see you put the decals on it, I still haven't done that.


Thanks! Yes, I ordered the stock sticker from Fox which shows the lever position picture. The other black and white glossy Fox sticker at the bottom of the sleeve came out of an old sticker kit I bought for a Fox 32 Float... I thought about leaving it stealth but the colors match and I like the old school stripes


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Evol shock airsleeve performance questions*

The Evol airsleeve sounds like an all-around upgrade providing increased small bump compliance, added mid-range support, and the option to add volume spacers to tune how progressive it behaves. Can the early adopters (Murchman? Darkhorse13?) comment on the following:

Does the negative air spring have any effect on the pedaling platform when the shock in the Firm position? In other words, do you get more (or less) bobbing in what used to be called the "Climb" position?

Are differences between the three shock settings (Firm/Medium/Open) changed at all? Do they seem more (or less) distinct?

and most importantly 

Can you tell if having more mid-range support results in fewer pedal strikes!?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Negative air spring - I don't use the modes very often but from my little experience with them it seems the same.

Difference between the three shock settings - Sorry but again I normally ride with it in the open setting so I really can't tell you if it's different as it feels like it did before. I rode a 2006 Enduro expert for 5 years so just about any bike bobs less than it did.

Less pedal strikes - I am not sure if I have adjusted to they way I pedal or if it's the shock but on my last ride I had zero strikes. I would say it more of adjusting to the low pedal though.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity said:


> The Evol airsleeve sounds like an all-around upgrade providing increased small bump compliance, added mid-range support, and the option to add volume spacers to tune how progressive it behaves. Can the early adopters (Murchman? Darkhorse13?) comment on the following:
> 
> Does the negative air spring have any effect on the pedaling platform when the shock in the Firm position? In other words, do you get more (or less) bobbing in what used to be called the "Climb" position?
> 
> ...


Levity, please see bullet point number 2 in my post above #1277. I feel like they are more distinct. I also feel that firm mode is more firm. I can't quantify or back that up in any scientific way though.

Not sure about pedal strikes as I was riding my 29+ wheelset and the bb is already higher in that setup. Given that I still had about 5mm of travel remaining at the end of the ride I would day I was riding higher in the stroke the entire time. That 29x3 up front though keeps the pedals of the ground. 
John


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi darkhorse n Murchman,

May I know for the EVOL kit, is it 1 can, 1 collar, 1 sticker n 1 pillow fluid? 

Do you guys happen to have the part numbers?

Is it upgraded on a Kashima coated Fox shock?

Thanks


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Revver, I listed all part numbers and pictures of the oem packaging on page 50, post #1230  Thanks! John


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Looking to buy a 150 travel Fox 34 Boost Plus if anyone is swapping out their fork.

Thanks!
.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks John.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi darkhorse n Murchman, sorry to ask again.

I noticed the part numbers from the kits you 2 ordered are different, is it because 1 is for kashima and the other is not?

Thanks again.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

That is exactly it and I would save the money and get the none Kashima if I had to do it again.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Murchman said:


> That is exactly it and I would save the money and get the none Kashima if I had to do it again.


Hi Murchman,

Your kit 806-29-431-KIT is for kashima coated EVOL upgrade, and Darkhorse was 806-29-411-KIT for non kashima coated shock upgrade. Thanks for clarification.

May I know what's the 803-00-142, description is Kit: rebuild, Float line Air sleeve, Special Q-Ring?

Thanks


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

That is the air can rebuild kit which you won't need as the new air can comes with all new seals. When I ordered mine the tech on the phone though the air can didn't come with the seals but they do.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Murchman said:


> That is the air can rebuild kit which you won't need as the new air can comes with all new seals. When I ordered mine the tech on the phone though the air can didn't come with the seals but they do.


Murchman, thank you for your infor. I currently awaiting Fox reply on my order n shipping.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Bottomed out a few times on yesterday's ride, but hopefully my new EVOL can will be coming in today to stop that from happening as much! Thanks for the inspiration to upgrade and taking the time to answer all the questions, Murchman and Darkhorse 


Fountainhead by ricky d, on Flickr


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

I'm sorry guys, last question on the EVOL can, do you buy direct from Fox? I tried going to their website, but cannot find any online sales for the EVOL can or option for our spec. Do you have a link where I can buy online? Thanks a lot.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Revver - Yes I call them up and order direct that way I know for sure I am getting the right parts and when they do make a mistake they have always taken really good care of me.

Drevil - Can't wait to read how the EVOL works out for you and revver as I would hate for it not to work though I have no doubt you will really like the change.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Excited that more people are trying out the EVOL! Can't wait for the ride reports.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

I will definitely chime in a ride report once everything are fixed up, but I stay in Singapore, so might takes awhile for the order and the shipping... thank you for all the advises n tips from everyone here.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Excited that more people are trying out the EVOL! Can't wait for the ride reports.


I might be next in line for this. The EVOL sleeve has been in my eventual to do list since I decided the Autosag was a waste of space. I'm setup higher in my travel than most of you, so I haven't the same issues of blowing through my travel but I'm slowly learning to leave the ground and have been bottoming out my shock with more regularity lately. No more than appropriate though. I'm not flying like Drevil yet, but as long as I keep the rubber side down, it's only a matter of time. If nothing else, I would expect it to be more active when run closer to 20% sag than the stock setup.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> I might be next in line for this. The EVOL sleeve has been in my eventual to do list since I decided the Autosag was a waste of space. I'm setup higher in my travel than most of you, so I haven't the same issues of blowing through my travel but I'm slowly learning to leave the ground and have been bottoming out my shock with more regularity lately. No more than appropriate though. I'm not flying like Drevil yet, but as long as I keep the rubber side down, it's only a matter of time. If nothing else, I would expect it to be more active when run closer to 20% sag than the stock setup.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


phride, don't be afraid to try running closer to 30% sag when you get the EVOL. I am relatively "ground bound" in my riding style too and you can see from my pics earlier in this thread that I didn't max out travel at roughly 27% sag. Like I mentioned previously, the EVOL sleeve pressure for me is roughly [body weight + 50psi] to achieve that 30%-ish sag mark.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> phride, don't be afraid to try running closer to 30% sag when you get the EVOL. I am relatively "ground bound" in my riding style too and you can see from my pics earlier in this thread that I didn't max out travel at roughly 27% sag. Like I mentioned previously, the EVOL sleeve pressure for me is roughly [body weight + 50psi] to achieve that 30%-ish sag mark.


Oh, I'm not afraid of too soft a shock. I like the active suspension enough to almost never touch the climb/trail lever. I simply prefer to have more ground clearance, so I'm not constantly smashing the ground with my pedals. I've even stubbed my toes on flat ground a couple times coming out of a corner. Perhaps having more support will make the difference in that case, but I prefer riding chunky stuff, so I need to raise the bottom bracket as much as possible.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride I having been thinking about going to shorter crank arms to help with that as I still struggle with not being able to really put the hammer down in corners without hitting a pedal. My wallet has been holding me up on that change and I have been trying to just adjust my style to carry more speed out of the corner and in into chunky stuff so I can ratchet when needed instead of full pedal strokes.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Done. Just watched this video 5 times to make sure I did everything right: SHOCK- Air Sleeve Maintenance (FLOAT , FLOAT X, and DHX Air) | Bike Help Center | FOX

Since all those seals are already built into the sleeve, all you need is a 5cc pillow of the Float Fluid. Too bad I won't be able to give it a real try until Thursday 


Fox EVOL Sleeve Upgrade 
by ricky d, on Flickr


Fox EVOL Sleeve Upgrade 
by ricky d, on Flickr


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Nice, still wish I would have went with the all black air can.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> phride I having been thinking about going to shorter crank arms to help with that as I still struggle with not being able to really put the hammer down in corners without hitting a pedal. My wallet has been holding me up on that change and I have been trying to just adjust my style to carry more speed out of the corner and in into chunky stuff so I can ratchet when needed instead of full pedal strokes.


My wallet (or at least my general cheapness) is holding me up on that front, too. I'm waiting until I have beaten on the crank more, and then I'll get both the shorter crank and and the Wheels Mfg. eccentric bottom bracket, since (I believe) it's not compatible with the stock crank.

I'm certainly wrestling with pedal strikes in the uphill chunky stuff, but that's almost second nature now, and I'm willing to treat working around it as a challenge - at least for a while longer. The surprise pedal strikes are what get me. It's stunning how small a rock you can clip when you are JRA.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

You guys think the Vorsprung will be the same as the EVOL can upgrade? Having difficulties buying the EVOL can locally... unless you guys have a online site I can purchase from? Fox cannot sell to me, they only deal with US local customers. Thanks.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

From what I understand Fox started development of EVOL because of the Vorsprung so I think it will do just as good a job.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

revver said:


> You guys think the Vorsprung will be the same as the EVOL can upgrade? Having difficulties buying the EVOL can locally... unless you guys have a online site I can purchase from? Fox cannot sell to me, they only deal with US local customers. Thanks.


I imagine they are both similar. The only issues are that the Vorsprung is more $ and it's technically "after-market". I didn't want to give Specialized or Fox any reason to void my warranty if the situation ever arose.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> Done. Just watched this video 5 times to make sure I did everything right: SHOCK- Air Sleeve Maintenance (FLOAT , FLOAT X, and DHX Air) | Bike Help Center | FOX
> 
> Since all those seals are already built into the sleeve, all you need is a 5cc pillow of the Float Fluid. Too bad I won't be able to give it a real try until Thursday


Hey Ricky,
The black sleeve looks stealth on that shock! I can't wait until you put it to the test... since you'll hit some jumps  Let us know where you net out on psi and rebound settings.

Also, I fully decompressed the shock this evening to see how far down the o ring went. I measured roughly 7mm of unused/unavailbe travel on the shock shaft.

Leaving the o-ring in its fully compressed position, then filling the shock back up with air, I measured *45mm total available travel* from the top of the o-ring to the dust seal on my shock. Based on my 13.5mm of sag, that equates to 30%.

All I am getting at here, if you're still reading, is that 30% sag with the EVOL sleeve still didn't bottom me out on my last ride. The progressive feel is much nicer than the Autosag air sleeve.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

levity said:


> I've run all three combos, NN/RR, P/GC and P/P, on my 6Fattie. I switched from the OEM Purg/Ground Control to Purgs front and rear to get a bit more traction in back. The newer Purgs and GCs I received on warranty due to side wall sealant leaking gained some weight (from 960/920 to 1000/960g) in the process of beefing up the sidewalls. For that reason I switched to a Nobby Nic (896g) in front and a Rocket Ron (817g) in back. The NN is at least as grippy as the Purg; the RR gives up a little bite compared even to the GC but handles predictably. All have been reliable (other than the slow sidewall seepage of the original P/GC), but I prefer the livelier feel of the lighter Schwalbe tires to the Specialized versions.


I just requested _another_ warranty replacement on my third pair of Purgatories. A few days ago when loading up my bike, I noticed one of the tires lost about 10psi over a couple of days. When I reinflated it, the Stans was visibly bubbling out the sidewalls. Am I just extremely unlucky, or am I doing something wrong? For the record, I've always used Stans, but haven't tried adding glitter (to help clot) or used other sealants such as Orange Seal. Maybe I'll try one of them when the new pair comes in?

I've also started to consider other tires such as the Nobby Nic. Are they noticeably smaller than the Purgs? Any weeping issues with them? What about durability compared to the Purgs (ignoring the weepiness)?


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## gasmanxj (Sep 29, 2014)

You are not unlucky, two guys I ride with have the same issues with their 3.0 Purgs/GC's. One was so bad it would lose several PSI on a ride with sealant leaking out the sidewalls profusely, it was brand new! I'm running the Vee Crown Gem 3.0 F/R and happy so far. No seeping, tough sidewalls, great traction while rolling pretty well. They are just under 1000g but here in AZ lightweight tires don't cut it.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil,
That sucks about the weeping. I recently sliced open my GC to the point of disrepair... no fault of the tire, just caught a random sharp rock on the trail and sliced open the center of the tire.

I ordered a Purgatory from the LBS for the rear given the feedback of others liking the aggressive treads in back. I haven't received it yet but I'll let you know if it's crap.

Oh, and I've been using Orange Seal. I am not loyal to any of it and I think that Stan's actually dries out less quickly. Whom knows... next time though I am going with the milkit system because I think it's innovative and I want to try it out


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Drevil said:


> For the record, I've always used Stans, but haven't tried adding glitter (to help clot) or used other sealants such as Orange Seal. Maybe I'll try one of them when the new pair comes in?
> 
> I've also started to consider other tires such as the Nobby Nic. Are they noticeably smaller than the Purgs? Any weeping issues with them? What about durability compared to the Purgs (ignoring the weepiness)?


I'm using Orange seal. I like it. That's all I really have to say. I've also used the TruckerCO sealant (very economical) - both seem good but admittedly can't really attest to their effectiveness as punctures have been minimal recently.

I really like the nobby nic. I don't have a 6fattie (yet) but run the 2.25 and 2.35 versions on my 2013 Stumpy Evo. 
2.25 pacestar rear
2.35 trailstar front
If (who am I kidding... when) I get a 6fattie, the +sized nobby nics will likely be going on quickly just because I like them and have good history.

Sizing is probably about equal to the purgs. Though I've always felt the butchers were a bit less wide than stated. Nonetheless I like the ride qualities of the nobby nics. Some complain of sidewall durability, and I think the Spec "control" casing is probably the most similar. So... if that's a factor there are versions with increased sidewall protection.

$ tip: buy schwalbe tires from germany retailers.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

phride said:


> .... I'm waiting until I have beaten on the crank more, and then I'll get both the shorter crank and and the Wheels Mfg. eccentric bottom bracket, since (I believe) it's not compatible with the stock crank. ...


.
Is this the BB made for fixie or SS? Will it work for 1x11 std. mtb applications? I have PF92.....not sure if it will work for me. I'm guessing it converts 30mm cranks to 24/22mm cranks?


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

scottay said:


> .
> Is this the BB made for fixie or SS? Will it work for 1x11 std. mtb applications? I have PF92.....not sure if it will work for me. I'm guessing it converts 30mm cranks to 24/22mm cranks?


PF92 can't use it.

You probably want this EBB for a 6fatty:
Eccentric Bottom Bracket for PF30 & 24/22mm (SRAM, Truvativ) Cranks - Black

Paired with a GXP crank. Stock BB30 crank will not work.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

scottay said:


> .
> Is this the BB made for fixie or SS? Will it work for 1x11 std. mtb applications? I have PF92.....not sure if it will work for me. I'm guessing it converts 30mm cranks to 24/22mm cranks?


I'm looking at a BB made to allow SS conversion, but using it to raise the BB with the 1x11 setup. Yesterday, I had done some research and thought that it wouldn't work with the GX cranks, but it looks (_EDIT: to my uninformed mind_) like this product would work with the stock cranks. Don't rely on my word, as I'm still figuring this out myself, but I believe that Majr has already made this change. Perhaps he'll chime-in. I believe he changed the crankset, but that doesn't mean that that is necessary.

_EDIT: Er, or not. Shows what I know. Thanks, Majr._


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Drevil said:


> I just requested _another_ warranty replacement on my third pair of Purgatories. A few days ago when loading up my bike, I noticed one of the tires lost about 10psi over a couple of days. When I reinflated it, the Stans was visibly bubbling out the sidewalls. Am I just extremely unlucky, or am I doing something wrong? For the record, I've always used Stans, but haven't tried adding glitter (to help clot) or used other sealants such as Orange Seal. Maybe I'll try one of them when the new pair comes in?
> 
> I've also started to consider other tires such as the Nobby Nic. Are they noticeably smaller than the Purgs? Any weeping issues with them? What about durability compared to the Purgs (ignoring the weepiness)?


Surprised that you're having so much trouble. Mrs levity and I had a bit of sidewall seepage on the original tires (see pic below), but they never really lost significant pressure during a ride or even sitting for a few days. However, to be safe replaced them under warranty, and the new, heavier, GCs and Purgs (+ about 40g each) seemed fine.

We are currently running a Schwalbe NN in front and RR in back, mostly to save rotating weight. They measure essentially the same width at the GC and Purgs. A well worn set on a 32mm internal rim at 14psi is 72mm (2.84") at the casing and 75mm (2.95") at the outer knobs. Heights appear similar, but I have not measured the circumference. The Schwalbes do not show any seepage, and we've abused them on SoCal dirt, Moab ledges, and Tahoe rocks. (Note that we run them on relatively narrow 32mm internal rims so the sidewalls are somewhat protected by the wider knobs.) Both are Snakeskin and Pacestar and show little wear. The NN seems to have a bit more bite than the Purg, while the RR has a little less grip than the GC. Overall, we're pleased with the lighter feel of the Schwalbes, but we may put a Purg on the back to raise the bottom bracket a bit for Moab and Tahoe in the future to see if that will help reduce pedal strikes somewhat.

original GC tire sidewall seepage -










Purg cactus punctures well sealed by Stans -


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

I'm able to replace my GC twice under warranty but not my Purg as my LBS n Country distributor don't stock them. My weeping Purg lasted 3 months n it's leaking 0.5 to 1 psi daily now.

Awaiting my NN n RR to arrive for a change over.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I probably should've taken a video of it, but one the Purgs was leaking so bad that you could see the sealant bubbling out of it. 

I just added 4 more ounces of Stans, and it's laying on it's side on top of a bucket now. Hopefully that staves off the leakage. If I have to keep doing this, the tire will be filled more with Stans than air


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

My rear Ground control 3.0 was weeping so bad it would puddle up on the floor after a week. LOVED the light feeling of the originals though. Weird, the LBS, when they warrantied the tire, they put a Purg on the back and then they removed by plugs and put in rim tape, saying that was part of the reason for the leaking... ???? I'm not too happy about that. Wish they'd have asked me first before taking the plugs out. I don't see what that has to do with the sidewall seeping. I never lost much air at all. Maybe a few PSI in a week, which seems normal to me.

The Purg in the rear DEFINITELY has more climbing traction. those 37% grades on loose over hard are not an issue. Ieven got off-line and still managed to hook up for the climb. Amazing!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

On my fuse my front GC is perfect. The rear GC weeps a bit. I went through 2 applications of stans, leaving the wheel sitting on its side over a bucket for about a day on each side. I get far less bubbles than I did, but definitely still some small weep areas 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

FYI if your front hub feels a little loose check and pull the axle caps off and make sure the o-rings are there. My disc side axle cap for lack of a better word was missing the o-ring which resulted in a little bit of play in the hub. Replaced the o-ring and all is good.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Just seated my new Purg tonight and it's laying on its side right now on the bucket... i'll let you know what the sidewalls look like in the morning.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Did you happen to weigh the new Purg before mounting it? We found that the new GCs and Purgs sent as warranty replacements each gained 40g (presumably in the sidewalls!). The OEM Purg weighed 960g and the new one weighed 1000g.

Also note that we did not see any sidewall seepage on the OEM tires until after about 100-200 miles. They seemed fine when we first mounted them. Let us know how your replacement does.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

I have had zero troubles with my front tire, my rear I blew on my third ride of the bike and since then bought a VEE tire trax fatty and love it. I run my tires tubeless with stans rim tape and orange seal for my sealant.

Thought I would show you guys some downhill I hit yesterday on my 6fattie. Sorry the camera angle is low, next week it will be better  . I can't wait to try the front and rear shock upgrades you guys have discussed. This bike is so much fun!


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I have been giving some serious thought to the 650b+ platform lately and I have always rode a trek because of the local bike shop being a Trek dealer. Well, things have changed and the last few times I was there they weren't too friendly/helpful so I have been looking elsewhere. I stopped by the Trek dealer yesterday to ask them about their new FuelEX+ and was told "we probably wont get any of them but we can order you one if you want it". That being said, I left there and headed 25 or so miles to the Specialized dealer and took a look at the FSR fattie and fell in love. Unfortunately they didn't have any demo bikes available to take for the weekend or anything and I'm really nervous about buying such a drastic change of a bike without riding one first. But man, I think I know what my next bike will be. Any reason I would really want/need to spend the extra $1000 for the carbon model over the alloy comp model? They had one of each in my size in stock.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity said:


> Did you happen to weigh the new Purg before mounting it? We found that the new GCs and Purgs sent as warranty replacements each gained 40g (presumably in the sidewalls!). The OEM Purg weighed 960g and the new one weighed 1000g.
> 
> Also note that we did not see any sidewall seepage on the OEM tires until after about 100-200 miles. They seemed fine when we first mounted them. Let us know how your replacement does.


levity, I regret to say that i did not. my friend grabbed the tire from the LBS for me and i met at his place to install it since i don't have a compressor. needless-to-say he doesn't take weighing every single bike part as seriously as i do  thus he doesn't have a scale. For what it's worth, my stock Purg that came with the bike (purchased last year) weighed in at 1010g (very thin coat of dried up Stan's to be taken into consideration)... so i have been riding on "heavy" rubber since day one.

The tire has been sitting all night and there's zero weeping this morning. I'll wait until it starts breaking in around that 100-200 mi mark and report back. I am happy though that these Spesh tires are a true 3.0" size at the outer knobs on my 38mm ID Roval SL38's. I have zero complaints with the traction and quality of the Purgs. Plus, the price is better than the Nobby Nics.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Any reason I would really want/need to *spend the extra $1000 for the carbon model over the alloy comp model?* They had one of each in my size in stock.


My simple answer, "No". You'll have a blast on either frame material and the weight difference is negligible.

I gave my $0.02 on this same question about 10 pages back or so...can't remember... but my take away is the following.

1) If you have the extra $1000 to play with regardless, *go with the alloy version and immediately upgrade to carbon rims*. You'll get way more benefit/seat of the pants excitement from upgrading to carbon wheels with a wider inner rim width. Plus, carbon hoops can follow you during frame upgrades if you stay with the BOOST platform. Not sure what the going rate is on the stock 29mm id alloy Roval wheels are these days but I sold mine last year (unridden) for $300... food for thought.

2) If you don't have the extra $1K, sounds like the alloy version will be the only option...still a win  I'd set aside at least $100-$200 to upgrade to a set of carbon bars and new stem. You'll save roughly 100g right off the bat (i know, very minimal) but you'll be able to "feel" this upgrade immediately on the trail.

3) Carbon frame = integrated SWAT storage (personally I am a HUGE fan) and overall more compliant ride on the trail... although one could easily argue that point. Alloy is good stuff these days.

Overall, if you don't mind giving up the SWAT storage and the ride feeling of a carbon frame then the alloy version is great. Don't worry, you'll impress your friends more with a set of carbon hoops.

John


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

darkhorse13 said:


> My simple answer, "No". You'll have a blast on either frame material and the weight difference is negligible.
> 
> I gave my $0.02 on this same question about 10 pages back or so...can't remember... but my take away is the following.
> 
> ...


I already have a set of carbon bars that would go on the fattie anyway, and as far as the SWAT storage, while its very cool, I don't think for me its a necessity.

My real question is how is the ride compared to a 29er FS bike? I have watched countless videos and read reviews out the wazoo and the general consensus is more traction but with a slight sacrifice in long climbing ability. Is that what you guys are experiencing in the real world also? I'm really nervous to buy without riding first. I did that with my 29er now and have had buyers remorse ever since. LOL


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I ordered my 6Fattie last October with only a parking lot ride. Read all the reviews from Interbike at bootleg canyon and from those reviews I knew the 6fattie would shine where I had weaknesses. I had never had a bike with more than 120mm travel and almost always purchased XC bikes. The 6Fattie is slower to climb than other bikes but man is it fun! As for carbon vs. aluminum it is your call. Carbon will probably be a little lighter weight. The carbon has the swat door, this is really pretty cool. I have my tools in there and never think about them. The little swat tool holder above the shock is also very handy. I cannot imagine the aluminum and carbon would ride any different since the tires and suspension are so active. 

Have fun, Jill


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> My real question is how is the ride compared to a 29er FS bike? I have watched countless videos and read reviews out the wazoo and the general consensus is more traction but with a slight sacrifice in long climbing ability. Is that what you guys are experiencing in the real world also? I'm really nervous to buy without riding first. I did that with my 29er now and have had buyers remorse ever since. LOL


It's hard to compare the "ride" to any bike really, same brand family or not. Ask yourself what are you nervous about giving up going from a 29er to the 6fattie? Or what do you "think" you are potentially giving up?

I came off a 2014 Jet 9 alloy FS29er (120mm fork) for this bike. I left a XC/Trail bike for an All Mountain/Enduro-ish rig...sight unseen. I knew there would be differences, but so far the "bad" has not outweighed the good. Also, I have ridden my 6fattie in 29er form in an attempt to keep my inner XC spirit alive and soften the transition between plus sized tires... this lasted about 3 months and I was done. I personally didn't find the benefit of riding 29x2.4 tires vs the 3.0's.

In terms of climbing sacrifice, that's a wash for me between the 2 bikes. The Jet 9 was a 26lb bike and the 6fattie is 29lb. Yes, lugging an extra 3lb up a hill is what it is. The Jet 9 felt more stable climbing but the 6fattie has way more traction. I personally get up hills better with the 6fattie. Maybe I am sacrificing some speed but the legs don't feel like they are working that much harder so that's enough for me. Don't be worried that the 6fatttie just flat out won't climb... it does.

Honestly, the one thing you need to concern yourself with before you purchase any 27.5+ bike (6fattie or otherwise) vs a 29er is the *lower BB and pedal strikes*. It takes some riding style adjustment at first before it becomes "normal".


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

My thought on Carbon versus Alloy. Until I switched to Carbon in 2011 every single alloy frame I rode would fail within 2 years of use. My 2011 Ibis Mojo HD is still going strong today and has had zero failures. I have taken it down bike park runs and put over 3k trail miles on it, three forks, two wheelsets, and a number of handle bars. I have no idea how long it will last but it has now been made into my bike park bike.

For a guy my size and the amount of riding I do I will never switch back to alloy for my trail bike. I will say the same thing about carbon wheels. It may cost more up front but ends up paying for itself over time.


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> I ordered my 6Fattie last October with only a parking lot ride. Read all the reviews from Interbike at bootleg canyon and from those reviews I knew the 6fattie would shine where I had weaknesses. I had never had a bike with more than 120mm travel and almost always purchased XC bikes. The 6Fattie is slower to climb than other bikes but man is it fun! As for carbon vs. aluminum it is your call. Carbon will probably be a little lighter weight. The carbon has the swat door, this is really pretty cool. I have my tools in there and never think about them. The little swat tool holder above the shock is also very handy. I cannot imagine the aluminum and carbon would ride any different since the tires and suspension are so active.
> 
> Have fun, Jill


Actually there is no weight savings with the carbon version as it adds the SWAT door. So the expense is pretty much a waste. Like darkhorse13 has been saying just get the aluminum version and update to the carbon Roval wheels.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Plusforever said:


> Actually there is no weight savings with the carbon version as it adds the SWAT door. So the expense is pretty much a waste. Like darkhorse13 has been saying just get the aluminum version and update to the carbon Roval wheels.


Well just getting the bike is pretty much going to max out the budget for a while so I think I will go with the alloy version and then over the winter get some upgrades like the wheels and such. And honestly, for my riding and what I'll be doing with the bike, I will probably never notice the alloy/carbon difference.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Plusforever said:


> Actually there is no weight savings with the carbon version as it adds the SWAT door. So the expense is pretty much a waste. Like darkhorse13 has been saying just get the aluminum version and update to the carbon Roval wheels.


Have you seen actual documentation of Comp Carbon v. Comp frame weights? Specialized has assiduously avoided publishing the weights, so folks will be more likely to pony-up $1,000 for the carbon model. I had guessed at a 1-1.5# difference for the carbon front triangle, but it could be less, but I find it hard to imagine that a SWAT door will make much of a difference.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

crfnick56 said:


> Well just getting the bike is pretty much going to max out the budget for a while so I think I will go with the alloy version and then over the winter get some upgrades like the wheels and such. And honestly, for my riding and what I'll be doing with the bike, I will probably never notice the alloy/carbon difference.


I did the same thing and am quite happy with the alloy version. You can shave over a pound of rotational weight off by going to carbon wheels, and that can be done for a similar cost to the carbon frame upgrade, and that will be a much bigger bang for your buck.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Even if the carbon frame weighed a full lb heavier than the aluminum I'd still buy the carbon version. The ride quality, stiffness and response is noticeably different to me. With the SJ the carbon frames have always been 1-1.5lb lighter, and the SWAT compartment adds 200g, which is less than .5 lb.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

They never post weights. They have stated the swat adds 200gm to a carbon frame.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Ive havent had any issues with my + purgs on my steel ht. Im in the rockies by the way.


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## Dr_J (Jan 15, 2004)

My $0.02 on the carbon vs. alloy debate....
With the 2 bikes otherwise identical, I don't see any real world advantage in the carbon bike that justifies the 1k upcharge. If the ride was dramatically better or the frame way lighter I might feel different. When It comes to full suspension bikes, the feel and performance of the bike is going to be more dependent on the suspension than the frame material. The reason aluminum alloys became the standard for FS over steel and titanium BITD is because the perceived benefits of the other metals was largely lost once rear suspension entered the equation. Aluminum won out because it is light, stiff and inexpensive. In the case of the carbon comp fattie, the rear triangle is still M5, so I feel like the advantage is even more negligible 
I personally haven't had durability issues with aluminum alloy full suspension frames, especially the specialized M alloys. My last Stumpy FSR, which was M4 tubed, lasted through 14 years of heavy use (far longer than I ever intended to keep the bike) 
I have always prioritized by bike budget as follows: 1. frame 2. fork and suspension 3. wheels then I worry about the other bits. While I prioritize frame, I don't think spending more necessarily equates to getting more. I look for the best value for the money I have to spend. In the case of the alloy fatty comp, If I had 1k burning a hole in my pocket I would likely invest in lighter wheels (I have a real hard time justifying 1k+ for carbon rims though, at least until the rider drops 30lbs) then upgrade the fork. 
I will say you really can't go wrong with either, so far my Fattie has exceeded all expectations


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

I demoed an alloy stumpy but end up buying a carbon comp! I asked my lbs if they can price match an old stock from the internet which they did! It was actually cheaper than the alloy version! Very happy with that + they did the tubeless conversion for free! and i wanted a carbon bike for my first full suspension! If the lbs didnt do these im happy to get the alloy version! Not much difference in weight if not maybe even the same


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

*Headset bearings*



majr said:


> Have you actually used the Cane Creek 40 upper headset?
> I tried the one that their tool recommended (I believe it's the same as you linked), and it didn't fit properly. As I recall the bearing wasn't quite tall enough and the seal created way too much drag before it was even snugged up. And the CC bearing couldn't be used with the FSA cover as the sealing surface didn't line up.


My stock headset bearings rusted out, over a dozen wet rides in the last month or so. I purchased some standard cane creek replacements but they look to be too shallow. The originals are too rusted to identify clearly any model numbers or markings, I googled and searched the forums but I'm unable to get an exact spec/model number. Does anyone have the size/height spec for the Stumpjumper 2016 expert/comp carbon 6fattie headset upper and lower? I would prefer to upgrade to a better and more sealed bearing like the ones from cane creek or boca.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TEvans73 said:


> My stock headset bearings rusted out, over a dozen wet rides in the last month or so. I purchased some standard cane creek replacements but they look to be too shallow. The originals are too rusted to identify clearly any model numbers or markings, I googled and searched the forums but I'm unable to get an exact spec/model number. Does anyone have the size/height spec for the Stumpjumper 2016 expert/comp carbon 6fattie headset upper and lower? I would prefer to upgrade to a better and more sealed bearing like the ones from cane creek or boca.


majr suggests some here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-8.html#post12659809


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

don1 said:


> I demoed an alloy stumpy but end up buying a carbon comp! I asked my lbs if they can price match an old stock from the internet which they did! It was actually cheaper than the alloy version! Very happy with that + they did the tubeless conversion for free! and i wanted a carbon bike for my first full suspension! If the lbs didnt do these im happy to get the alloy version! Not much difference in weight if not maybe even the same


Sounds like a great deal Don1! I'm considering a SJ 6Fattie as my next bike, really don't want to spend the money for carbon but we'll see what kind of deals are around at my local shops.

As I'm shopping around for a FS 27.5+ bike, my wants are the following:

1x11 SRAM Drivetrain
Shimano Brakes
Full Suspension
Around the $3,500 Pricepoint

I think the SJ+ is about the only bike that meets all my wants at this time.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

TEvans73 said:


> My stock headset bearings rusted out, over a dozen wet rides in the last month or so. I purchased some standard cane creek replacements but they look to be too shallow. The originals are too rusted to identify clearly any model numbers or markings, I googled and searched the forums but I'm unable to get an exact spec/model number. Does anyone have the size/height spec for the Stumpjumper 2016 expert/comp carbon 6fattie headset upper and lower? I would prefer to upgrade to a better and more sealed bearing like the ones from cane creek or boca.


Assuming the head set is the same as on the fuse, buy the full 40 series headset, not just the bearings. The bearings are a different height than stock because their crown race and top cover/preload washer is different than the fsa

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

crfnick56 said:


> Any reason I would really want/need to spend the extra $1000 for the carbon model over the alloy comp model? They had one of each in my size in stock.


I had the same decision. The LBS was going to give me a decent deal, enough to make the Carbon Comp enticing, but still, with $1K difference, I figured I could lose a couple pounds to make up the weight difference - 35 lbs. later, (and I really didn't like the white color)....I may miss the internal storage for tire/tools as I've been running with either a seat pack or back pack. 300 miles later and I'm still very happy with the 6F.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Has anyone heard of there being any major changes for the 2017 bikes that would make it crazy for me to get a 2016 at this point? As soon as I can sell my current bike I will be ordering a 6fattie comp and got a killer price on a 2016 but before I pull the trigger I want to make sure I wont regret it in a few months when the 2017 comes out with the latest and greatest.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

crfnick56 said:


> Has anyone heard of there being any major changes for the 2017 bikes that would make it crazy for me to get a 2016 at this point? As soon as I can sell my current bike I will be ordering a 6fattie comp and got a killer price on a 2016 but before I pull the trigger I want to make sure I wont regret it in a few months when the 2017 comes out with the latest and greatest.


There were some photos of a SJ 6fattie with Ohlins fork and shock floating around a while back. Nothing official though afaik.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

franx said:


> There were some photos of a SJ 6fattie with Ohlins fork and shock floating around a while back. Nothing official though afaik.


Well chances are if that makes it to the 6fattie lineup it wont be on the alloy comp model anyway. I would have to assume if anything changes on the comp it wont be much more than some components and colors, right?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Well chances are if that makes it to the 6fattie lineup it wont be on the alloy comp model anyway. I would have to assume if anything changes on the comp it wont be much more than some components and colors, right?


I can't find the page or exact post numbers in this thread, but someone posted pics of the 2017 models (maybe back in pages 35-45?). Appears to just be changes to color and not components or rim widths.

I'd be more curious to see if Spesh jumps on board with SRAM RockShox and the "new" metric sizing of rear shocks for 2018 I guess?

?The Ultimate Guide to 'Metric' Shock Sizing and the RockShox Super Deluxe - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I wouldn't count on them joining the metric sizing as Specialized has being doing custom length shocks for as along as I can remember. It's one of the only real issues I have with them as I would love to pick up a rear shock on sale or just of the shelf.


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## DenverAlan (Sep 24, 2013)

Regarding the Carbon vs Alloy discussion from a few days ago: my LBS is having a "Factory Overstock" sale from Specialized and I just picked up the FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie for $3390 + tax. That price made the carbon impossible to pass up. I'm looking forward to putting some miles on it.

Now I have a question. See this rubber strip?







It was in the packet with my owner's manual and other paperwork. I asked the bike shop guys what it was, but they didn't have a clue. Do any of you folks know what this is for? It's a pretty soft rubber compound with a slightly sticky adhesive on the back.


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## Guest (Jul 6, 2016)

DenverAlan said:


> Now I have a question. See this rubber strip?
> View attachment 1080525
> 
> It was in the packet with my owner's manual and other paperwork. I asked the bike shop guys what it was, but they didn't have a clue. Do any of you folks know what this is for? It's a pretty soft rubber compound with a slightly sticky adhesive on the back.


perhaps a chain stay protection strip??


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

nvphatty said:


> perhaps a chain stay protection strip??


Looks like that to me.


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

maybe its the adhesive tape that you stick in between the bottom from and the bash guard. To stop it from coming adrift!


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Padding for your Swat box?


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

crfnick56 said:


> Has anyone heard of there being any major changes for the 2017 bikes that would make it crazy for me to get a 2016 at this point? As soon as I can sell my current bike I will be ordering a 6fattie comp and got a killer price on a 2016 but before I pull the trigger I want to make sure I wont regret it in a few months when the 2017 comes out with the latest and greatest.


i would mainly want to know about geometry changes (to reduce the pedal strikes) and rim width changes


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

There is like a skid plate that runs on the bottom tube for the carbon frame.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,
Is our rear wheel thru axle same as the Syntace X12 model, linked below? I rounded the Allen key hole of my rear thru axle, need a replacement. Now the axle still stuck to bike, LBS looking at ways to take it out.... shitty.

Thanks.

https://www.bike24.com/p226092.html


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

revver said:


> Hi,
> Is our rear wheel thru axle same as the Syntace X12 model, linked below? I rounded the Allen key hole of my rear thru axle, need a replacement. Now the axle still stuck to bike, LBS looking at ways to take it out.... shitty.
> 
> Thanks.
> ...


Mine has a handle not allen key
I have that Syntace on my 29er, but that is 142 not 148 boost that we have


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Make sure you get a boost size axle


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

sgtrobo said:


> i would mainly want to know about geometry changes (to reduce the pedal strikes) and rim width changes


I talked to a specialized dealer today and was told that the 6fattie, at least in the comp model I was looking at, would just be a carryover model into 2017 with just new colors as the only changes.

So that being said, I put a deposit on a black and red 2016 comp 6fattie. Now all I need to do is get my Trek 29er sold ASAP!!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Yes, it's 148 x 12 boost size as stated. Just wandering if there are different in spec like the chamfer head we are having now.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Hard to say, is there a reason you want that one instead of a replacement Spec one?


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

I would like a Spesh replacement but my LBS not very confident they can get 1, and they don't have stock in hand...


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

revver said:


> I would like a Spesh replacement but my LBS not very confident they can get 1, and they don't have stock in hand...


I had a hard time removing my rear skewer also, even deforming my good quality Bondhus 5mm Allen wrench because I had to use a cheater bar on the end of it. When I last installed it, I greased the threads and chamfered area under the head, then snugged it down tight, but I didn't think I did it _that_ tightly. Now I don't snug it as tight, unless I hear a squeak.

I'm curious if there is a skewer out there similar to what they put on TA forks (like the Fox) so I won't need an Allen wrench.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> I greased the threads and chamfered area under the head.


^^ this ^^

I always keep a thin coat of Phil Woods grease on the threads / shaft / cone piece of the skewer to make removal easier. There's definitely a fine line to walk in terms of tension with this skewer. Even with the grease it will still tighten down very hard and removal can be tough. A few taps with a rubber mallet to the skewer handle will usually do the trick.


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## Welnic (Feb 6, 2013)

revver said:


> Yes, it's 148 x 12 boost size as stated. Just wandering if there are different in spec like the chamfer head we are having now.


Just to note that while 148 x 12 hubs are all compatible with 148 x 12 frames, the axles are frame specific. The things that differ on the axles are the mating surfaces and the thread pitch. The length can be a little different if the dropouts are really thick. But basically if you can find an axle with the right thread pitch it should work. I have some DT axles on a couple of bikes that work really well.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

I tighten it down with the threaded side coming to almost flush with the rear triangle near the rear dee side. When I wanted to swap over my wheel set, I noticed there we're almost 2 threads protruding out. With the rear wheel spinning anticlockwise to the bolt tightening most of the time, I thought it would loosen rather then tighten but this happen...


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Weinic, thanks for the advise. Need the Spesh axle spec then.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*rear skewer*

not sure what type of thru axles come on different models, but the Comp Carbon Stumpy and Rhyme models come with a skewer type axle shown below (also mentioned by darkhorse13 above)










you should be able to source this from Specialized if you want the skewer type


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Small tip of the day...

I have had terrible luck with the small plastic press-in SWAT floor piece. It has come loose and bounced sideways a number of times during the last 6 months... at this point it appears that the plastic is actually distorted.

I looked around my home shop for a solution and I think I found one that works for me. I have some car detailing applicator sponges on my shelf and decided to stuff one down in the SWAT compartment... perfect.

These sponges are a very durable / dense material that can handle the chemicals of tire dressings. They compress nicely and will actually get more firm as they compact. I provided the link here: Adam's Polishes - Foam Block. I ended up cutting one in half and it seems to be the right size.

The sponge is more quiet than the plastic in terms of things rattling around inside and will stay completely put... which is most important thing. For those keeping track at home, the plastic piece weighs 5 grams and the sponge weighs exactly 5 grams too... whew, i can sleep tight with this mod.

If you're struggling with this 1st world problem, I hope this helps.

John


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Alu comp is not that fancy, no writing on the handle, only had off tonight.

My warranty tyres have started bleeding, so laid them on their side over the last 2 days to see if they seal, however they have not lost any pressure in 3 weeks


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi levity, mine is an Expert model and it is with a bolt type without the handle. Now I'm hoping that my LBS can take out the rear thru axle with the damaged Allen key head, and have a replacement 148 x 12 boosted thru axle for me to purchase.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Work's a little slow right now, so I walked outside to take some pics 

Here's what the rear skewer on my S-Works looks like. They cheaped out and didn't give us the handle! 


Stumpjumper by ricky d, on Flickr

I put some 27.5" x 3.5" Panaracer Fat B Nimbles on the bike to qualify it for a local fat bike race (which required tires on both ends to be 3.5" or wider ). Lucky they went by what's printed on the side instead of real measurement. They barely make 3", and I think they're even narrower than Purgatory 3.0.


Fat B Nimble 27.5" x 3.5" Tire by ricky d, on Flickr


Fat B Nimble 27.5" x 3.5" Tire by ricky d, on Flickr

These tires are ridiculously light for its size (720 grams), so I had the weigh the bike:


Stumpjumper by ricky d, on Flickr


Stumpjumper by ricky d, on Flickr

Jorts for the win! 


[email protected] 2016 #3 by ricky d, on Flickr

BTW, the FBN tires suck. The course is in Northern Virginia, and was relatively flat, with a few roots and rocks. It rained hard a couple of nights before, so the roots were a teensy slippery. However, almost all the roots were like ice, and the tire slipped sideways immediately. I was also afraid to lean into turns because the knobs don't go very far down the side (I have Roval 38 carbon rims) and traction broke away quickly and unexpectedly. I tried to stay upright as much as possible.

As for the weight (medium S-works), I was pleasantly surprised. Most of it is stock, but I changed the following:

In the pic are the FBNs with 4oz of Stans in each. My normal Purgs weigh about 300 grams more (each) than the FBN. That said, they are worlds better, so the extra weight is worth it in this case. I have a pair of Nobby Nics 3.0 coming in tomorrow, so will take off the FBNs then.
The multi-tool and chain tool are still attached
I have a K-Edge Garmin mount
I have XT pedals attached
I swapped from the Syntace 65mm stem to a 50mm Thomson stem (I think the Thomson is heavier)
I swapped grips to ESI Fit
I have a knockoff K-Edge Garmin mount attached to the back of the saddle
I swapped the Autosag sleeve for an EVOL one


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

100% agree... FBN tires indeed SUCK.

I run a 29x3.0 (umm more like 2.6) on my 29+ rear wheel sometimes and it is only suitable in the rear imo. Under braking it has little traction. All I can say on a positive note is that it's light... that's it.

I switched to a Purgatory in the rear now for my 27.5+ Rovals and I love it. This bike should have come with Purgs f/r from the factory. I don't notice any increased rolling resistance and it grips hard!

Drevil, i can't wait to see how the 3.0 NN truly measures out on the Roval SL38's.

Thanks for the pics.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'll be interested in your take on the NNs, too. I'm really happy with the Purgs, myself, and most of the folks praising the NNs don't seem to have tried the Purgs by way of comparison.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

Drevil said:


> I had a hard time removing my rear skewer also, even deforming my good quality Bondhus 5mm Allen wrench because I had to use a cheater bar on the end of it. When I last installed it, I greased the threads and chamfered area under the head, then snugged it down tight, but I didn't think I did it _that_ tightly. Now I don't snug it as tight, unless I hear a squeak.


Don't overtighten, you will ruin the bearings in the hub faster. Just enough to take the play out of the wheel.



> Hi levity, mine is an Expert model and it is with a bolt type without the handle. Now I'm hoping that my LBS can take out the rear thru axle with the damaged Allen key head, and have a replacement 148 x 12 boosted thru axle for me to purchase.


Usually you should be able to remove damaged allen heads by tapping in the next size up torx bit.


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## Guerdonian (Sep 4, 2008)

Just picked up an Expert, and I freaking LOVE IT!


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Okay, here are my thoughts after several rides on the 6Fattie Comp:

What I like: Cushion. Lots of cushion. I'm coming from a rigid single speed and this is really nice. I've had several hard tails in my past, but never FS so this is a treat. The bike also climbs wonderfully.

What surprised me (in a good way): How well the bike shifted. It's never skipped or faltered. We'll see how the GX wears in though. I'm pretty impressed so far through. Some minor adjustments after the first dozen rides or so which is to be expected. I have an M9000 XTR rear derailleur in my parts bin and might throw that on at some point (I'd need to pick up a new shifter though).

What surprised me (in a bad way): Rear skewer was loose after the 2nd ride. I'm thinking it may have been from some bush-whacking and it got caught on a branch. Hopefully it's nothing related to the design. I'll probably replace it at some point with a non-handle version. It's been fine since so maybe it was an anomaly.

What I'm still getting used to: Gears. And trigger shifters. I've only used Grip Shift or the old-fashioned thumb-shifters in the past (and I'm coming off of sevrral years of dedicated single speed riding). I like the trigger but will need a few more rides to get totally accustomed. Also, wide handlebars. Doing just fine for a majority of rides but I did clip a tree once at a low speed (thankfully). I might cut them down to 720mm but will ride a few more times to see if I get accustomed to the feel. Might replace them with some with less sweep and rise.

What I didn't really like: The tires. Not as grippy as I'd like but maybe I just need to get used to them. Possibly I need to get more used to the lower pressure. Running about 17PSI at the moment.

What I haven't used all that much: The dropper post. In time I imagine I'll use it more. I kind if forget I have it sometimes.

What I thought was fine but will probably change: The brakes. The Deore brakes performed well but I think XT or XTR are in my future.

What I changed from the stock build: The bike now sports an ENVE MTN (85mm) stem and ODI Rogue lock-on grips. I also added a lovely Spurcycle bell.

Anyway, so far, so good. I'm signed up for the Vermont 50 and I'm really psyched that I'll be riding this rig.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

syl3, thanks, will try if LBS can't get it out.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

What size of Stumpjumper 6Fattie you are driving? I am 177cm /5 ft 10" tall and inseam is 84cm / 2ft 9" I would go for medium size and that´s what I have test driven but would be still interesting to hear opinions and bike sizes of others.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

oops


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

DenverAlan said:


> Now I have a question. See this rubber strip?
> View attachment 1080525
> 
> It was in the packet with my owner's manual and other paperwork. I asked the bike shop guys what it was, but they didn't have a clue. Do any of you folks know what this is for? It's a pretty soft rubber compound with a slightly sticky adhesive on the back.


Had the same question...

Technical Service Videos - Mastic Seatstay Protector Installation on Vimeo


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Doh!*

Check your brake hose and rear derailleur cable slack! I know this has been mentioned before, but want to add a reminder.

Because I've been able to get full travel in the rear shock (measured 48mm with no air in the shock) and there were no signs of cable rubbing on the bottom bracket I assumed all was well. Apparently not. :madman:

On a recent ride during a G-out I heard a buzzing sound that turned out to be due to the rear brake hose rubbing the tire knobs. The zip tie holding it in place below the left chainstay had broken. We were on a relatively short ride and didn't have the usual complement of tools and repair parts and had to MacGyver things. Fortunately, Mrs levity had some duct tape on her helmet holding an iPod shuffle and headphones on. We peeled off the tape and the Snell sticker inside the helmet and were able to temporarily fix the brake hose in place. While down there I also loosened the clamp where the hose exits the frame and pulled out an additional ½" to provide more slack.










There were some fast downhill sections where I was concerned about it coming loose again, but the tape held for another hour or so and I and made it back. Once home I deflated the shock again found that there was still very little extra slack in the brake hose and RD cable, so I pulled out another ½" to be safe.

For those who haven't, I recommend deflating your shock and confirming that there is plenty of slack in the brake hose and RD cable. Things could get ugly in a hurry if they got caught in the tire knobs. :eekster:


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Mrdangerpants - try running less psi. That may change your perspective on the tires. I weigh 190. Running 9 psi up front and 15 in the back. I almost never have to add air it seems even though they sweat sealant like crazy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Derek200 said:


> Mrdangerpants - try running less psi.


Yeah, I'm working my way down.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TEvans73 said:


> Had the same question...
> 
> Technical Service Videos - Mastic Seatstay Protector Installation on Vimeo


Thanks! I would've never guessed this was what it's used for. I applied mine last night, but not before noticing a few tiny chips at the spot where it belongs.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

levity said:


> For those who haven't, I recommend deflating your shock and confirming that there is plenty of slack in the brake hose and RD cable. Things could get ugly in a hurry if they got caught in the tire knobs. :eekster:


I had this EXACT same problem when I got mine. I used a couple of hair ties to hold the cable in place until I could deflate the shock and get the proper amount of cable coming out of the bb.


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## Guest (Jul 10, 2016)

> Now I have a question. See this rubber strip? Attachment 1080525
> It was in the packet with my owner's manual and other paperwork. I asked the bike shop guys what it was, but they didn't have a clue. Do any of you folks know what this is for? It's a pretty soft rubber compound with a slightly sticky adhesive on the back.





nvphatty said:


> perhaps a chain stay protection strip??





bad andy said:


> Looks like that to me.


send the donuts our way..


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> send the donuts our way..


Hmmm... I think we need a judge's ruling on this one. The official answer is *seatstay *protector. The 6fattie community can only send you donut holes 

Thank you for playing!

Seriously though, i will go install mine now. Thanks y'all!


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

misterdangerpants said:


> What surprised me (in a bad way): Rear skewer was loose after the 2nd ride. I'm thinking it may have been from some bush-whacking and it got caught on a branch. Hopefully it's nothing related to the design. I'll probably replace it at some point with a non-handle version. It's been fine since so maybe it was an anomaly.


Me too. It happened every couple of rides for the first month or two, then stopped being a problem.



misterdangerpants said:


> What I didn't really like: The tires. Not as grippy as I'd like but maybe I just need to get used to them. Possibly I need to get more used to the lower pressure. Running about 17PSI at the moment.


Agreed. Lower pressures help. But depending on your terrain a softer rubber is the only fix. Surly Dirt Wizards work great for me.



misterdangerpants said:


> What I thought was fine but will probably change: The brakes. The Deore brakes performed well but I think XT or XTR are in my future.


I doubt you'll notice any difference. Deore, XT, and XTR all feel the same to me. They even use the same brake pads.


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## Guest (Jul 11, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hmmm... I think we need a judge's ruling on this one. The official answer is *seatstay *protector. The 6fattie community can only send you donut holes
> 
> Thank you for playing!


well foschizzle me timbers i ersss close dagnabit. yutes 6fattie fuggahs got off easy this trip.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Anyone tried the Orange Seal on their Specialized GC and Purg? I’ve had mine with tubes in for about 2 months now and purchased Orange Seal to finally convert to tubeless. I do remember on a rainy day ride after getting a pinch flat that the sidewalls on the GC were completely covered with air bubbles in a cross pattern – should I even attempt to seal them.


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## Guerdonian (Sep 4, 2008)

Quick hype video for this bike. (video doesn't quite do the start of the rock justice)


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> Anyone tried the Orange Seal on their Specialized GC and Purg? I've had mine with tubes in for about 2 months now and purchased Orange Seal to finally convert to tubeless. I do remember on a raining day ride after getting pinch flat that the sidewalls on the GC were completely covered with air bubbles in a cross pattern - should I even attempt to seal them.


Orange Seal is all I have ever used in my Spesh Purg/GC tires. I am not loyal to any specific brand, just what's in stock at the LBS. It seems to work just fine. In fact, I feel that Orange Seal dries faster than Stan's creating a think skin inside the tire. I slashed my rear GC past the point of repair recently but I will say that it was covered nicely inside with sealant and wasn't weeping. I feel that I used to add 3oz of Stan's once the tire was new and ride for about 6mo before re-filling. With the Orange Seal it seems that I add 2oz a month for the first 2mo then it finally stay's "sloshy" when I go to check the fluid level with the old shake weight test. Maybe it's the tires, maybe it's the sealant, either way it takes a minute to set up tubeless.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I use Orange Seal exclusively. Stans will have a tendency to dry up into a little ball of rubber boogers, but Orange actually coats the inside of your tire with a layer of latex that adds protection from small punctures even when its dry. Also, even though I have been told otherwise, the only people I see complaining of seepage are the ones using Stans.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

darkhorse13 said:


> Orange Seal is all I have ever used in my Spesh Purg/GC tires. I am not loyal to any specific brand, just what's in stock at the LBS. It seems to work just fine. In fact, I feel that Orange Seal dries faster than Stan's creating a think skin inside the tire. I slashed my rear GC past the point of repair recently but I will say that it was covered nicely inside with sealant and wasn't weeping. I feel that I used to add 3oz of Stan's once the tire was near and ride for about 6mo before re-filling. With the Orange Seal it seems that I add 2oz a month for the first 2mo then it finally stay's "sloshy" when I go to check the fluid level with the old shake weight test. Maybe it's the tires, maybe it's the sealant, either way it takes a minute to set up tubeless.





> I use Orange Seal exclusively. Stans will have a tendency to dry up into a little ball of rubber boogers, but Orange actually coats the inside of your tire with a layer of latex that adds protection from small punctures even when its dry. Also, even though I have been told otherwise, the only people I see complaining of seepage are the ones using Stans.


Thanks guys... tomorrow is tubeless Tuesday for me!

Bottle says 3-4oz for 27.5 - 29 - I'm assuming more like 5oz for a 27.5 3.0? Should have bought the bigger bottle, how much did you guys use?


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## DenverAlan (Sep 24, 2013)

TEvans73 said:


> Had the same question...
> 
> Technical Service Videos - Mastic Seatstay Protector Installation on Vimeo


Sweet! Thanks for posting that video. I'll install that soon.

On a related note, did you all get a couple sheets of (mostly) clear frame protector stickers? I'm wondering if you all found good places to use them to protect the frame? So far I put a couple on the outside of the seatstays where the stays bulge outward, since scratches are likely there. But with the internal cabling, I don't see anyplace where cable rub might occur. Where do you wish you had some frame/paint protection?


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

DenverAlan said:


> On a related note, did you all get a couple sheets of (mostly) clear frame protector stickers? I'm wondering if you all found good places to use them to protect the frame? So far I put a couple on the outside of the seatstays where the stays bulge outward, since scratches are likely there. But with the internal cabling, I don't see anyplace where cable rub might occur. Where do you wish you had some frame/paint protection?


I couldn't find a good use for them, I always use a clear polyurethane 'copter' tape in 2" wide rolls. Run it along the back of my seat stay, wrap it around my head tube and anywhere else if see fit. It cuts easily and doesn't leave residue when removed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O65W9..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=H7454CVTKV7M1N6YGARF


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey everyone,
> Got EVERYTHING I need for the EVOL air sleeve swap now. Fox is apparently out of the spacer kits but if you ask nicely they might sell them to individually (I opted for a small and large spacer, but they do make a medium which i didn't purchase for some reason) as they did for me  Also be sure to ask for a new sleeve sticker for your 3-pos lever pictures... sleeve does not come with one. Finally, I forgot to ask Fox for a pillow pouch of Float Fluid (5cc) but luckily my LBS had them around the shop for $3. These little suckers are cheap online but shipping is CRAZY... like 3x the price of the pillow. Fox recommends 2.5cc of Float Fluid upon reassembly, so one little pillow will go for an upgrade plus a sleeve dust wiper/seal maintenance down the road.
> 
> John


Damn! Put my order in today and my LBS called me back to say Fox has the EVOL cans on back order till mid-August! Look like I'll be running the small auto-sag can till then 


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

I've been riding this bike for about a month now, almost each day. It is amazing. The bike just eats everything in its path. I converted to tubeless when I got it.

I am not by any means an expert rider. I am low intermediate to intermediate. When I first demoed this bike, I had a lot of problems with constant pedal strikes because it was my first time riding it.

I've ironed out the last kink. I keep taking bad falls whenever I lose my balance during a slow down when I lose some control. I had the seat too high. I had the same problem when I demoed. Lots of stupid falls that had little to do with technique. Now I use the dropper post and change the height as I need it. Usually higher on climbs and smooth trails, and lower for rocks and sand.

I haven't had any issues with pedal strikes since owning the bike. Maybe once or twice in the past month or so the pedal hit (but it doesn't throw me off), or my foot hits the ground while pedaling and it's usually my fault.

I have no intention of riding this bike on any trails that have jumps or drops that exceed a couple of feet. Maybe if I ever get adventurous, the EVOL sleeve will help there.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

OffTheTop said:


> I have no intention of riding this bike on any trails that have jumps or drops that exceed a couple of feet. Maybe if I ever get adventurous, the EVOL sleeve will help there.


Just as an fyi, the EVOL sleeve will still provide better small bump compliance and a more progressive mid-stroke feel over the stock Autosag can. Long story short, you don't have to ride aggressively to take advantage of this inexpensive upgrade... but if you do get more brave on the trails the EVOL sleeve will be there for you in that manner too 

Up to you of course where you'd like to spend your dollars, but in terms of sub-$100 upgrades I rank this up there with going directly to a shorter stem and carbon bars.

Enjoy your ride!


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Just as an fyi, the EVOL sleeve will still provide better small bump compliance and a more progressive mid-stroke feel over the stock Autosag can. Long story short, you don't have to ride aggressively to take advantage of this inexpensive upgrade... but if you do get more brave on the trails the EVOL sleeve will be there for you in that manner too
> 
> Up to you of course where you'd like to spend your dollars, but in terms of sub-$100 upgrades I rank this up there with going directly to a shorter stem and carbon bars.


I didn't realize it was such a cheap upgrade. I expected to be really expensive. I asked the kid that built my bike (he didn't do a good job) about the EVOL sleeve. He looked at me like I was crazy and said the only reason I would need it is if I was always bottoming out and did 10-foot jumps from rocks. Just another reason I'll never go to that LBS again... totally wrong info, and bike not built well.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Every new bike I have looked at by other high end manufacturers including Santa Cruz, Pivot, Ibis, has the EVOL can on all their bikes..Even the womens bikes. Shoot Santa Cruz put the EVOL can on the Tallboy..no one is doing 10 foot drops on a Tallboy, well not on purpose. Have fun out there.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Every new bike I have looked at by other high end manufacturers including Santa Cruz, Pivot, Ibis, has the EVOL can on all their bikes..Even the womens bikes. Shoot Santa Cruz put the EVOL can on the Tallboy..no one is doing 10 foot drops on a Tallboy, well not on purpose. Have fun out there.


Yeah, those accidental 10-foot drops will get you even with the EVOL can.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

So you're telling me that the EVOL air sleeve would not have saved my buddy on his super sweet 2006 SJ FSR?

Maybe the EVOL is only good for jumps under 6ft? Drevil... please confirm 

This landing resulted in a hospital visit fyi.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Always tough to find a good shop guy that understands the new technology. While some of the new stuff is just hype others like the EVOL make a big improvement. It will be interesting to see if Specialized drops the autosag and moves to EVOL like everyone other manufacture.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Maybe I missed it but can somebody post the part numbers/link to the EVOL parts and possibly where to get the volume spacers for the forks.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

You mean you don't want to go through 1400 post to find it ;-) This will get you in the ball park http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-12.html#post12651730

Call fox up and they will get you all the right part number for the volume spacers and EVOL. I recommend not getting the kishima EVOL as it doesn't do anything other than look gold.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Maybe I missed it but can somebody post the part numbers/link to the EVOL parts and possibly where to get the volume spacers for the forks.


Page 44, post #1092 = Non-Kashima
Page 50, post #1230 = Non-Kashima (pics only)
Page 50, post #1246 = Kashima

Start on page 44 and continue reading for feedback and ride impression on the EVOL. Grab a coffee first


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Murchman said:


> You mean you don't want to go through 1400 post to find it ;-) This will get you in the ball park http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-12.html#post12651730
> 
> Call fox up and they will get you all the right part number for the volume spacers and EVOL. I recommend not getting the kishima EVOL as it doesn't do anything other than look gold.


Actually no, I have been through just about every page in this thread doing my research before putting a deposit down on my bike. I just didn't remember seeing any actual part #'s but I must have missed them. Thanks guys!!! Can't wait to get this out and get it dirty. Picking up my Fattie tomorrow!!


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## Guest (Jul 14, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Start on page 44 and continue reading for feedback and ride impression on the EVOL. Grab a coffee first


be afraid..,be very afraid..


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Just saw the 2017 bikes specs and looks like they are sticking with Autosag but instead of fox they are going with rockshox and Ohlins 

From the 2017 6Fattie expert RockShox Monarch RT3, Rx Trail Tune, AUTOSAG, rebound and 3-position compression adjust, 197x48mm 

From the 2017 S-Works Custom Öhlins STX, Single Tube design, Rx Trail Tune, 3rd Chamber air spring technology, AUTOSAG, adjustable compression & rebound damping, 197x48mm 

Also the BB height is staying at 331 with the 3.0 tires and 325 with 2.8 tires. 

B-B Height (29x2.3") (mm) 338 338 338 338 B-B Height (650x3 ") (mm) 331 331 331 331 B-B Height (650x2.8") (mm) 325 325 325 325


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## akaBrowntown (Nov 28, 2012)

Searched the thread and wasn't able to find anything. Aside from boost spacing is there any difference in the fattie and 29er frames?

Have a 29er frame but am curious how well it would work b+.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Found this for 2017


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

hmmm, could this foreshadow a Spesh 2.8 tire???

semi-plus Purgs and GCs?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

FRONT TIRE Purgatory, GRID casing, 650bx3.0", 60TPI, Aramid folding bead, 2Bliss Ready REAR TIRE Purgatory, GRID casing, 650bx3.0", 60TPI, Aramid folding bead, 2Bliss Ready


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Anyone having an issue with the paint on their Expert 6Fattie? I can see a lot of the carbon lay-up thru the paint on mine (Gloss/Silver Tint), especially in the sunlight. Kinda looks like electrical tape was wrapped around the bike or something....but it's underneath the paint. I have never owned a carbon frame before, so maybe it's just me. I emailed specialized describing the issue and they got back to me saying it was purely cosmetic. Not a huge issue, but I would expect more from a bike costing this much. I do love the ride, though!!


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It's normal, instead of doing a base paint to hide the layers they just did a clear coat so you can see the layup of the carbon.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Murchman said:


> It's normal, instead of doing a base paint to hide the layers they just did a clear coat so you can see the layup of the carbon.


Thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear it's normal!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman, are these 2017 specs coming from dealer screen shots or can the common man find these online somewhere?

I gave the old college try by googling 2017 Specialized Stumpjumper but that got me nowhere.

Also, maybe it's just me, but why would I want a 2.8 tire on the 6fattie? I think it's cool Spesh is possibly making 2.8's for others who like these tires but own a different brand bike though. For me, I want a true 3.25-3.5" next... not the other way  But hey, more choices = good.

Thanks,
John


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Here is the post I found the catalog on http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/too-early-talk-about-2017-models-997144-4.html#post12731813

Took a while to download as I wasn't paying for the fast link.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Just saw the 2017 bikes specs and looks like they are sticking with Autosag but instead of fox they are going with rockshox and Ohlins
> 
> From the 2017 6Fattie expert RockShox Monarch RT3, Rx Trail Tune, AUTOSAG, rebound and 3-position compression adjust, 197x48mm
> 
> ...


Another BIG call out is that the *S-Works and Pro Carbon 6fatties are getting SRAM EAGLE 12-speed!*

*COOL* = switched over to SRAM Guide brakes on all the models 
*NOT-SO-COOL* = narrow width Alloy wheels on all (3) levels of Carbon builds? Even the Pro?

For those that did not download the '17 catalog here are the Pro/Expert/Comp Carbon pics. The Comp Carbon green/red paint is less than desirable imo,


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## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

'17 S-Works and Pro get carbon rear ends. Hopefully with some added heel clearance.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It will be interesting to see if we can put the carbon rear on the 2016's and the cost.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Thought I would share a little POV video from my ride yesterday


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## Guest (Jul 17, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Thought I would share a little POV video from my ride yesterday.


appreciate the ride along mate.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Sick! Where is that trail at?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It's the VMT trail at Blankets Creek SORBA Woodstock which is 2 miles from my door 

Here is the full Inner loop video


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> It's the VMT trail at Blankets Creek SORBA Woodstock which is 2 miles from my door
> 
> Here is the full Inner loop video


That trail looks awesome. The closest thing we have to that in the DC-area is Fountainhead, but the tabletops here don't look as big as those. I did a ride there on Saturday, and it was ridiculously humid. My footage isn't as cool as yours, nor is it in 4K, because I have the cheapest GoPro


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Nice it's so good to see the other 6 Fatties getting it done. The heat is brutal right now, rode yesterday at 5PM, 95 degrees and 85% humidity. 

4k is nice but the frame rate isn't there. I took some video yesterday using 1440 at 60FPS that looks much better.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Got my Fattie on friday and got two quick rides on it this weekend at my local trails. All I can say is wow!! I was on the fence about the plus size tires but since I knew I wasn't a huge fan of my 29er I thought I'd give it a shot and I'm glad I did. Two rides and two Strava personal best times on familiar trails, on the first ride!! Like was mentioned, its a little sluggish climbing, I dont think I'll be setting and PR's on climbs anytime soon but it just billy goats its way up anything you throw at it. 

I did also get a few pedal strikes like people have mentioned but its nothing a few adjustments to my riding style and being more careful about pedal timing can't fix. 

Overall I love the bike. The bike shop set it up tubeless so thats already done and I think all I want to do it maybe throw on some different grips and call it a day.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Drevil said:


> That trail looks awesome. The closest thing we have to that in the DC-area is Fountainhead, but the tabletops here don't look as big as those. I did a ride there on Saturday, and it was ridiculously humid. My footage isn't as cool as yours, nor is it in 4K, because I have the cheapest GoPro


This will give you a better idea of the size of the table as my boy does a run down it.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

crfnick56 said:


> Got my Fattie on friday and got two quick rides on it this weekend at my local trails. All I can say is wow!! I was on the fence about the plus size tires but since I knew I wasn't a huge fan of my 29er I thought I'd give it a shot and I'm glad I did. Two rides and two Strava personal best times on familiar trails, on the first ride!! Like was mentioned, its a little sluggish climbing, I dont think I'll be setting and PR's on climbs anytime soon but it just billy goats its way up anything you throw at it.
> 
> I did also get a few pedal strikes like people have mentioned but its nothing a few adjustments to my riding style and being more careful about pedal timing can't fix.
> 
> Overall I love the bike. The bike shop set it up tubeless so thats already done and I think all I want to do it maybe throw on some different grips and call it a day.


Congrats and welcome to the start of some amazing riding. Don't worry once you get use to the traction on climbs it will get faster, the nastier the climb the faster you will get.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> This will give you a better idea of the size of the table as my boy does a run down it.


Where were these bikes 30 years ago, when I was in my teens? 

I saw a few more of your vids on Vimeo. Have you tried doing a GPS overlay yet? You just need the free VIRB software, which was meant for Garmin Virb cameras, but works with any footage as long as you GPS-tracked your ride. Kinda neat to see how far along a person is on the trail while watching the video. Here's one from when I was in Dupont State Forest in NC a month ago.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

That's funny you should bring that up, I have my eye on getting the Virb XE as it's so much easier to sync up the video and the ride.

Here is a video I did awhile back before my 6 Fattie where I overlaid my GPS data and heart rate.


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Loving my 6Fattie...


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Drevil - much respect for completing the climb at the start of the Black Trail - never managed it on my old Stumpy, looking forward to trying it on the 6Fattie.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

After a month of researching what I wanted, I realized that my wants vs needs varied wildly. I was aiming for the Santa Cruz Hightower but ended up with the Specialized FRS 6F. Primarily because I was sick of waiting and my LBS had this bike in stock, on hand and ready to roll. I regret nothing.









I've been riding it all weekend and I love it! I have this bad habit of spending money on upgrades early on. I know I can save some in the long run by getting an already upgraded model but I love the learning curve, it seriously makes me happy! :thumbsup:


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Everyone seem happy with the narrow rim width on this bike or are most upgrading to wider rims?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

CeejaySmiff said:


> Drevil - much respect for completing the climb at the start of the Black Trail - never managed it on my old Stumpy, looking forward to trying it on the 6Fattie.


Thanks. It's definitely a little tricky. Go in too fast and you bang into the second big rock. Too slow and you might not make it over the same rock. You can dooooo it! 

Belle Isle in Richmond, ya? I heard they put some new stuff in there recently? Nice bike, btw


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

prj71 said:


> Everyone seem happy with the narrow rim width on this bike or are most upgrading to wider rims?


I wouldn't want to go wider than the 30mm inner width. I like the having the tire take the abuse of the trail more than the expensive carbon rim. I have had no issues with the tires rolling and I am at 15f/18r psi and I weight 220lbs. I also like the rounder shape of the tire and have measured it to a true 3.0 width.


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## CeejaySmiff (Jan 26, 2013)

Drevil said:


> Thanks. It's definitely a little tricky. Go in too fast and you bang into the second big rock. Too slow and you might not make it over the same rock. You can dooooo it!
> 
> Belle Isle in Richmond, ya? I heard they put some new stuff in there recently? Nice bike, btw


Belle Isle Skills Park RVA it is.... They basically took it apart and put back together again, but "better". Very good resource for beginners and the pump track is popular with the BMX'ers.

We (RVA Racing) were there for a Take a Kid Mountain Biking event. Note the second (hardtail) 6Fattie on the left !


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I personally dont care for the 30mm rims with the 3" tires. When you ride aggressive you have to either pump up the tires to prevent roll and deal with less traction, or keep them low and deal with a squirmy tire. A beefier sidewall would help, but then the tires get heavy. 
My buddy has the 52mm Stans Huge with the Purgatory 3" and they ride just like the 30mm rims do with a 2.4 tire. Much more solid feeling and can be run lower pressure for the added traction.


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## franx (Dec 21, 2015)

I do sense some tire roll on high speed berms, stock rims, Purgatory @ 16 lbs (I'm around 200). I'll definitely be looking for wider rims on my next upgrade spree...


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Mr. Lynch said:


> When you ride aggressive you have to either pump up the tires to prevent roll and deal with less traction, or keep them low and deal with a squirmy tire. A beefier sidewall would help, but then the tires get heavy.


You know, according to the dealer book (linked in 2017 models thread) many of the 6fatties state they're coming with GRID casing tires (vs. CONTROL for 2016). Hmmm. I wish Specialized had gone the other way and spec'd wider rims.


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## sgtrobo (Aug 19, 2014)

prj71 said:


> Everyone seem happy with the narrow rim width on this bike or are most upgrading to wider rims?


like so many other things, your mileage may very

the 30s either caused the tire to feel unstable and "rollover-y" at lower pressures, and at higher pressures, well, you lose traction. The entire point is to run these at lower pressure, and the wider rim allows you to do that much better

interestingly enough, the Fuse no longer has the WTB 45mm ID rims, they come with Roval 38s


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

sgtrobo said:


> interestingly enough, the Fuse no longer has the WTB 45mm ID rims, they come with Roval 38s


That is a good call-out... all Fuse models have a 38mm ID rim (alloy or carbon).

I think Specialized missed the opportunity with the 2017 Stumpy 6fattie to reconcile the mistake they made with the 29mm ID rims. Every publication /review I've read (online and hard copy) that has featured this bike have all mentioned the rim width in the CONS section of the summary. IMO 35mm ID is the minimum width needed for a true 3.0 tire. We can debate the exact mm for the perfect size after that... which is roughly 40mm ID 

I hate to bring up the rim debate in here when we have SO many threads dedicated to it already.

I think Spesh stuck with the alloy 29mm size because of their original claim that it's "lighter", but I don't believe Spesh when they say that performance is still on par with it's 38mm brother. Let's face it our 6fatties are not the lightest in the bunch in stock form and they had to cut weight somewhere and rolling stock is where you feel it the most.

Anyway, I shouldn't be complaining as I made the Traverse SL38 upgrade and I haven't regretted it.

John


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

One thing I am not happy about is that I already have to replace the back tire. Sealant bubbling under the rim near the valve stem. I think that is from it being build poorly by the LBS, of course not the bike itself.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Anyone try a shorter stem and riser bar? I have felt a little too far forward on the bike a few times....like I was going to endo. I was thinking of going with a 20mm riser bar and a 50mm stem. Any downside to this?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

brianw7 said:


> Anyone try a shorter stem and riser bar? I have felt a little too far forward on the bikedge a few times?.like I was going to endo. I was thinking of going with a 20mm riser bar and a 50mm stem. Any downside to this?


I put a Renthal Fatbar Carbon 30mm rise 780mm width and Apex 50mm stem and love it.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

brianw7 said:


> Anyone try a shorter stem and riser bar? I have felt a little too far forward on the bikedge a few times?.like I was going to endo. I was thinking of going with a 20mm riser bar and a 50mm stem. Any downside to this?


Yes, I have this exact cockpit on my large 6fattie. Race Face 760mm bar and Turbine stem


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

brianw7 said:


> Anyone try a shorter stem and riser bar? I have felt a little too far forward on the bike a few times....like I was going to endo. I was thinking of going with a 20mm riser bar and a 50mm stem. Any downside to this?


Okay... I'm going try my Thomson x4 50mm on my 6fattie expert, love the current bars but I think I want carbon. What 750mm bars do you all think would look good? Red/Black theme.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

TEvans73 said:


> Okay... I'm going try my Thomson x4 50mm on my 6fattie expert, love the current bars but I think I want carbon. What 750mm bars do you all think would look good? Red/Black theme.


Deity Mohawk bars. In red/black.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Murchman said:


> It's the VMT trail at Blankets Creek SORBA Woodstock which is 2 miles from my door
> 
> Here is the full Inner loop video


Thanks for posting the video Murchman! I'm on the other side of town near Chicopee Woods. I've ridden Blankets a few times. I'll be picking up my Comp Carbon 6Fattie on Saturday. Maybe I will see you out on the trail sometime.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Epic_Dude said:


> Thanks for posting the video Murchman! I'm on the other side of town near Chicopee Woods. I've ridden Blankets a few times. I'll be picking up my Comp Carbon 6Fattie on Saturday. Maybe I will see you out on the trail sometime.


Glad you liked it, I plan on putting more videos up of all the trails and of me actually hitting all the features.

I haven't ridden Chicopee in a few years but always liked, just a long haul to get over there. Let me know if you ever head over to Blankets or Rope Mill as I ride them pretty much every day around 7ish during the week and what ever time I get my son to actually get up on the weekends.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> Okay... I'm going try my Thomson x4 50mm on my 6fattie expert, love the current bars but I think I want carbon. What 750mm bars do you all think would look good? Red/Black theme.


Race Face Next 35 carbon... go with 35mm clamping to future-proof your investment.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Bar choice is really personal as each bar has it's own feel and design. I have a shelf full of bars that I have tried before I found the ones I found really fit me well and my style. If you can try as many as you can. Sure you can throw any bar on and ride but when you find the one that just makes you feel comfortable it really changes your ride experience.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I got a stumpy fsr expert 2016 non 6fattie version. Is it possible to use maxxis reckon 650bx2.8 and will I still have clearance?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Not sure clearance is pretty tight on my son's 2015 Stumpy 650B


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Murchman said:


> Bar choice is really personal as each bar has it's own feel and design. I have a shelf full of bars that I have tried before I found the ones I found really fit me well and my style. If you can try as many as you can. Sure you can throw any bar on and ride but when you find the one that just makes you feel comfortable it really changes your ride experience.


Quoted for truth.

A carbon handlebar bar is a carbon handlebar is a carbon handlebar. . . . NOT.

I have bought bars for the way they looked, figuring they would be fine as long as they were the right width, and close enough in upsweep and backsweep. An expensive lesson for sure.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

for fun I have my 6fattie cleaned up and added an XX1 Crank so I thought I'd weigh it.

Touch over 29lbs... lives up the 6*fattie* nomenclature 

Large frame - no tools/tube inside SWAT locations
*upgrades:*
Roval Traverse 38SL wheels
Fox EVOL sleeve
XX1 175mm crank w/ aboluteBLACK oval DM 28T ring
Purg's front and rear w/ 4oz sealant
Spank pedals
Race Face Next 35 760mm bars / Turbine 50mm stem cockpit
Phenom carbon saddle
GoPro saddle mount
Timber! bell
K-Edge Garmin stem mount


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## Guest (Jul 20, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> for fun I have my 6fattie cleaned up and added an XX1 Crank so I thought I'd weigh it.
> 
> Touch over 29lbs...


did you eat off of this??


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Do most of you remove the chain guard? It doesn't seem necessary since the GX cranks come with a wide/narrow ring. I've never dropped a chain on any of my SRAM 1X setups.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Has anyone with the GX drivetrain had any issues with it? I just got my bike on Friday (comp model) and have adjusted the derailleur high and low stops and messed with the cable tension almost non-stop and have not been able to get it adjusted right. It constantly is skipping and false shifting no matter what kind of tension I have on it. I am taking it back to the shop Friday for them to look over but I was just wondering in the meantime if anyone has had issues with the GX? This is my first bike to have it. Other than that, its killer!!!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> did you eat off of this??


yes, I had guests over to enjoy a charcuterie board served on the top tube... very elegant.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> Has anyone with the GX drivetrain had any issues with it? I just got my bike on Friday (comp model) and have adjusted the derailleur high and low stops and messed with the cable tension almost non-stop and have not been able to get it adjusted right. It constantly is skipping and false shifting no matter what kind of tension I have on it. I am taking it back to the shop Friday for them to look over but I was just wondering in the meantime if anyone has had issues with the GX? This is my first bike to have it. Other than that, its killer!!!


The jury is still out on the GX derailleur / shifter combo for me. I switched the GX crank to XX1 only for weight and aesthetics... i won't pretend i had better reasons 

I have not been 100% happy with the shifting of the GX. I assume your components are all new and chain stretch / old housing cables can be ruled out? Have you checked cable routing and made sure all your ferrules are fully seated? Finally you haven't switched crank rings and altered the offset of the chainline?

If yes to all of the above, then have someone verify your high/low stops and b-screw. I was getting a bunch of chain noise in the small cog while spinning on the work stand so I manually grabbed the rear derailleur body and swung it up towards the seat (simulating the turning in the b-screw without actually doing it) and found I needed more tension on the derailleur body and tighten the b-screw only a turn or two. This helped alleviate some of the noise issue as the derailleur looked liked it was "collapsed" onto itself rather then "standing tall"... if that makes sense. After b-screw and H/L screw adjustment I too play with the cable tension.

I am not getting ghost shifting or skipping like you but I never feel like the chainline is "quiet" enough. Seems like I just can't dial in that number 5 or 6 cog. With Shimano, it's always been cheaper and more beneficial to upgrade the shifter rather than the derailleur. The cable actuation and crispness is handled at the shifter and I've had great results even with XTR shifters and SLX rear derailleurs. I want to try out this theory with an XX1 shifter (plus I really want an adjustable thumb trigger to dial in placement, GX is too far out for me) but I can't find a used one on the cheap yet. I'd rather not throw msrp dollars at XX1 11sp when XX1 Eagle is darn near the same price.

Long story longer, get the basics dialed in first because the GX components do work well. Then possibly switch to a SRAM chain over the KMC to see if that helps (I like KMC but sometimes OEM plays better with itself). If all else fails go with XX1 Eagle 12sp because throwing money at a problem usually works for me


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

darkhorse13 said:


> for fun I have my 6fattie cleaned up and added an XX1 Crank so I thought I'd weigh it.
> 
> Touch over 29lbs... lives up the 6*fattie* nomenclature
> 
> ...


Interesting weight my XL s-works is 29.1lbs


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

crfnick56 said:


> Has anyone with the GX drivetrain had any issues with it? I just got my bike on Friday (comp model) and have adjusted the derailleur high and low stops and messed with the cable tension almost non-stop and have not been able to get it adjusted right. It constantly is skipping and false shifting no matter what kind of tension I have on it. I am taking it back to the shop Friday for them to look over but I was just wondering in the meantime if anyone has had issues with the GX? This is my first bike to have it. Other than that, its killer!!!


Check that there is enough slack cable under the bottom bracket. Too little and the suspension action will pull the cable and cause ghost shifting, and/or worse... dig a groove into the bb shell.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Interesting weight my XL s-works is 29.1lbs


Yeah, and Drevil's size MEDIUM s-works is 27.6lb (page 55) with those crazy light FBN tires... i assume that's over a pound of rubber (i think he said 300g savings each tire vs Purg)

The FACT 11 carbon must be lighter... good thing you got what you paid for  Not a dig on s-works pricing, just jealous i don't have it.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

What's funny is this is the lightest bike I have ever owned. My XL Ibis Mojo HD came in at 31lbs, 06 Enduro Expert was 33.8lbs, 04 S-works Enduro was 33lbs, and all bikes before that were above 30lbs.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

darkhorse13 said:


> The jury is still out on the GX derailleur / shifter combo for me. I switched the GX crank to XX1 only for weight and aesthetics... i won't pretend i had better reasons
> 
> I have not been 100% happy with the shifting of the GX. I assume your components are all new and chain stretch / old housing cables can be ruled out? Have you checked cable routing and made sure all your ferrules are fully seated? Finally you haven't switched crank rings and altered the offset of the chainline?
> 
> ...


yes, all components are new (well I have three short rides on so far so maybe 8-10 miles) and in good working order. The only thing I have yet to adjust is the B-screw so that will be my next step. And oddly enough, mine seems to be the worst in that 5/6 cog also. Its not quiet in any gear but I get the worst noise and the false shifts in that 4/5/6/7 range. The upper and lower gears seem to be "OK" but not great. That middle range is almost un-rideable at this point.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Two rides on the Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5 x 3.0 (Trailstar front, Pacestar rear). Still trying to figure out if these puppies match well with my riding style and terrain (rocky/rooty Maryland/Virginia). Going for a ride now to play on them some more. Could be that I just need to get to know them better. They definitely look moto!


Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5 x 3.0 by ricky d, on Flickr


Stumpy at 28.4 Pounds by ricky d, on Flickr


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

crfnick56 said:


> Has anyone with the GX drivetrain had any issues with it? I just got my bike on Friday (comp model) and have adjusted the derailleur high and low stops and messed with the cable tension almost non
> 
> I have had my Comp since September and the gears have not missed a beat.
> Been very happy with the GX


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Ok so I messed with the drivetrain for about an hour tonight and no matter what I do it just won't shift smooth through ALL the gears. I can adjust cable tension and the B-screw to all ends of the spectrum and it either shifts fine right up to the lowest gear then starts skipping or skips in that 5/6/7 range like I mentioned before. The only thing that seems somewhat consistent is the highest two or three gears (smallest) all seem fine no matter what I adjust. They always seem to hold in gear and change smooth no matter what. But for the life of me I can't get it consistent in the rest of the range no matter what I do. Less tension, more tension, B-screw in or out, no combination that I have found will work throughout the entire 11 gears. It's going back to the bike shop Friday for them to look at and see if I'm missing something. Maybe they can also give me a few pointers for the future.


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

My GX shifting has less than perfect. New bike so I'm waiting to have the shop check it out after more rides. Under load shift I hear the click but it drops back to lower gear. Kind of skips also and its in the 7/8/9 gears.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

crfnick56 said:


> Ok so I messed with the drivetrain for about an hour tonight and no matter what I do it just won't shift smooth through ALL the gears. I can adjust cable tension and the B-screw to all ends of the spectrum and it either shifts fine right up to the lowest gear then starts skipping or skips in that 5/6/7 range like I mentioned before. The only thing that seems somewhat consistent is the highest two or three gears (smallest) all seem fine no matter what I adjust. They always seem to hold in gear and change smooth no matter what. But for the life of me I can't get it consistent in the rest of the range no matter what I do. Less tension, more tension, B-screw in or out, no combination that I have found will work throughout the entire 11 gears. It's going back to the bike shop Friday for them to look at and see if I'm missing something. Maybe they can also give me a few pointers for the future.


Align the hanger, or if you don't have the tool, have your shop do it. I'm not a huge Sram fan but the GX set on my Comp has been flawless for around 700 miles now. If not the hanger alignment it needs new cable and/or housing.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

willembad said:


> Align the hanger, or if you don't have the tool, have your shop do it. I'm not a huge Sram fan but the GX set on my Comp has been flawless for around 700 miles now. If not the hanger alignment it needs new cable and/or housing.


The bike is brand new so I would have a hard time believing the hanger is out of alignment and I would sure hope I wouldn't need to replace cables after three rides.


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2016)

crfnick56 said:


> The bike is brand new so I would have a hard time believing the hanger is out of alignment and I would sure hope I wouldn't need to replace cables after three rides.


regardless it could be bent just as the rear stays could be so ensuring both are not is key.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

nvphatty said:


> regardless it could be bent just as the rear stays could be so ensuring both are not is key.


I had to read this a few times. Ever hear of "Eats, shoots and leaves"? 

I am having trouble with the middle gears on my XX1 drivetrain, but I admit it might be my own fault. A few months back, I was feeling good and tried riding a 4"-wide log skinny that was about 1.5' tall. It was starting to drizzle, and my tires slipped, and I landed hard on the rear derailleur, enough to bend the hanger, the cassette, and probably the derailleur. I had to yank on the derailleur to get it straight enough so it didn't go into the spokes when I rode it. I also cussed up a storm at how I just messed up $600 of equipment in the blink of an eye 

I took it to the shop and they straightened out the derailleur hanger, but it wasn't until just a few weeks ago that I realized some of the teeth on the cassette weren't straight. With a disc rotor truing tool, I got the largest cog as straight as I could.

A few questions for y'all:

When in the largest cog/easiest gear in the back, and I backpedal a few revolutions, my chain falls off the big cog and moves/jumbles down a few cogs. Is the chainline at that end so extreme that this isn't unusual...or are my parts still broke and/or misadjusted? It stays in place if I am pedaling normally.
My IR CC dropper post clunks a little bit - and most noticeable when fully dropped - like there's a bit of slop (twisting around of the inner shaft of the post). I can move the saddle a few millimeters back and forth if I grab the nose and just wiggle it. I've never had a dropper post before, but I've been told that's typical of them, no matter the brand.

I ended up buying a Park derailleur alignment tool to try to fix this, but to also fix my crash-prone wife's bikes.

With that, I leave you with a vid of my bashring being used to its full potential


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

As to the back pedal chain falling down problem, that is a feature of 11-speed. Either your chain line is bad in the lowest or highest gear, you decide. The way the Stumpy is set up the chain will drop off the lowest gear into about the 3rd lowest gear. 

As for the dropper post, they all have some play. Not sure if yours needs to be serviced as I almost never can get mine to lock in the lowest position. 

Have fun!


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I've had my SJ Comp 6F for about a week now, purchased on 7/15. I love it!

Since then, I have no had chain issues although I do not back peddle a lot. Sometimes the shifting is late or a bit rough even if im going downhill and not putting pressure on the peddles at all. This isn't often.

I can confirm though that the dropper post is lose. Its got a tiny bit of play in it but enough to notice. My friends have the same dropper and their bikes don't have this issue so im tempted to have it looked at.

BTW, I was tired of seeing everyone with a black bike so I got the Gallardo(sp?) Orange. I am always surprised at home much attention it gets. Its going to get some upgrade components soon for no reason other than looks. Maybe some Hope Tech brakes to start with in anodized blue. I think the blue on orange will look sexay! After all, if you love your bike, you ride better, this is a scientific fact!

Lastly, this bike is ten levels above my skill level and everyday I ride it, I push it harder and learn to trust it. Its a very rewarding bike. I took some jumps yesterday for the first time and was amazed at how light the bike feels in the air, specially the landings! What a difference from my previous bike which BTW was NOT a mtb.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> A few questions for y'all:
> 
> When in the largest cog/easiest gear in the back, and I backpedal a few revolutions, my chain falls off the big cog and moves/jumbles down a few cogs.
> My IR CC dropper post clunks a little bit - and most noticeable when fully dropped - like there's a bit of slop (twisting around of the inner shaft of the post). I can move the saddle a few millimeters back and forth if I grab the nose and just wiggle it.


1) Yes, my chain drops off the 42T when backpedaling. I have played around with chainline using different rings and it's happened on each. I have moved the chain inboard within a mm of the tire in the big cog and it still falls off. Now I will say that it is only a certain section of chain that creates this issue though... but my chain is not worn out. I have accepted it at this point as all of my bikes except for my Crux with the SCS hub (guess that little proprietary gem actually works) drops a chain backpedaling. It's only an issue on the work-stand though as I don't find myself backpedaling full revolutions in the 42T unless I'm lining up a crank arm to power up over an obstacle.

2) Dropper post has some side to side play for sure. No clunking in full drop but it definitely flexes when it's in normal ride position. Maybe take yours into the shop. Also, I have found that I need to apply a very thin coat of SRAM Butter every now and then to keep it sliding to perfection.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

darkhorse13 said:


> ... I have found that I need to apply a very thin coat of SRAM Butter every now and then to keep it sliding to perfection.


Assuming that you're referring to seat posts, this is a good idea providing conditions aren't too dusty. In our dry western US conditions lube on the seatpost just seems to help dust stick to it.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

This is a good video on keeping your post in good shape


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

JillRide45 said:


> As to the back pedal chain falling down problem, that is a feature of 11-speed. Either your chain line is bad in the lowest or highest gear, you decide. The way the Stumpy is set up the chain will drop off the lowest gear into about the 3rd lowest gear.
> 
> As for the dropper post, they all have some play. Not sure if yours needs to be serviced as I almost never can get mine to lock in the lowest position.
> 
> Have fun!


That's not true for every bike setup with XX1, I've had three bikes now with XX1 and if the chain line is correct and everything properly adjusted, I can back pedal in the 42T cog without the chain dropping to a lower gear. I know it's common on some bikes though.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity said:


> Assuming that you're referring to seat posts, this is a good idea providing conditions aren't too dusty. In our dry western US conditions lube on the seatpost just seems to help dust stick to it.


That's an ok assumption 

I agree that going overboard on the SRAM butter can attract debris in dry conditions. I typically clean the post, apply a very very thin coat, cycle it a few times, then wipe off any excess that pools up at the top of the post by the base of the alien head seat clamp. I cycle the post until there is not build up of lube to wipe off... then I ride... and drop it like it's hot!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> This is a good video on keeping your post in good shape


Murchman, thanks for caring about the general well-being of my post...


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Hey have to keep that post working.

FYI, I use my bike as the vise instead of taking it out I just let the air all the way out and then remove the collar and side it up, makes the whole process very quick and easy. Should take no more than 10 minutes.


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2016)

Drevil said:


> I had to read this a few times. Ever hear of "Eats, shoots and leaves"?
> 
> I took it to the shop and they straightened out the derailleur hanger, but it wasn't until just a few weeks ago that I realized some of the teeth on the cassette weren't straight. With a disc rotor truing tool, I got the largest cog as straight as I could.


Can't say i have drevil but i have heard of "eats, squaks n shits" in reference to seagulls though.. Seeing the various vids you've shared over the years it would behoove you to obtain a wide assortment of special tools for repairs.

My other thought for all concerned is chain length and RD tension due to it. Too long and it flops/bangs about terribly with marginal tension from RD, too short and it creates tension overload on RD that may not allow it to function as it should. I've no clue about this particular bike and how it's equipped but generally speaking the aforementioned aspects hold true across the board.


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Murchman, thanks for caring about the general well-being of my post...


damn good thing the post is well cared for to optimize it's functions.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Epic_Dude said:


> That's not true for every bike setup with XX1, I've had three bikes now with XX1 and if the chain line is correct and everything properly adjusted, I can back pedal in the 42T cog without the chain dropping to a lower gear. I know it's common on some bikes though.


Agreed. Previous Specialized bikes with 142+ rear ends worked well.
I use a Wolf Tooth non-boost chainring and it no longer falls off the 42 when back pedaling. The chain is fairly close to the rear tire though.

Yes, the dropper on the fatty clunks a bit. More than previous command posts. I just live with it.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

My GX shifting has been pretty much perfect. Slightly heavier action than XX1, but almost indistinguishable by feel. The derailleur might be slightly "softer" than XX1, as I managed to bend it (and the hanger) by bashing it on rocks. It is certainly cheaper to replace than XX1..

If your setup isn't shifting well, check these things. Roughly in order.
1. B-screw. Put it in the second biggest cog. The upper jockey teeth should be slightly farther out than the 42 cog teeth. SRAM has a spec for how far apart the teeth are when in the 42t, 8-12mm IIRC. You can look it up.
2. Hanger alignment. They sometimes come bent new. It happens.
3. Hanger screw tightness
4. Chain length. The chain length requirement is different for 1x and 2x setup. Too much chain leads to what you describe. It is more important than you would think.
5. Cable/housing slack below the BB
6. Derailleur body washer jobbie. GX sometimes comes apart at the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger. Undo the 5mm bolt and look at the washer/circlip area inside. The 5mm bolt should be captured.
7. Cassette seated and lockring tight
8. Thru axle tight
9. Cable routing, not wrapped around anything.
10. Ferules seated
11. Cable frayed
12. Cable routing around the derailleur near the anchor point
13. Derailleur body bent


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Epic_Dude said:


> Do most of you remove the chain guard? It doesn't seem necessary since the GX cranks come with a wide/narrow ring. I've never dropped a chain on any of my SRAM 1X setups.


Any thoughts on my previous question guys? I may just take it off and move on, unless someone has had problems with dropping the chain after removing the guide.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Folks have covered the potential shifting issues. Given that your bike is new and you've fiddled with all the settings, my first guess would be chain length. Get that wrong on a wife-range cassette and it will never work right. The old rule of thumb was to go to your gear with the least slack and you're derailleur should be at a 45 degree angle. (I'm not sure whether that still applies, but I'll check my bike when I get home, as it has shifted flawlessly for over 500 miles (aside from the two times the rear axle came loose). 

Your LBS should be able to get that right for you and should have gotten it right the first time, too. Bring it in. It's their job to fix it. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Epic_Dude said:


> Any thoughts on my previous question guys? I may just take it off and move on, unless someone has had problems with dropping the chain after removing the guide.


It's doesn't weight much and doesn't cause me an issue so I leave it on as I would rather have a bit of added security than have my chain drop.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Murchman said:


> It's doesn't weight much and doesn't cause me an issue so I leave it on as I would rather have a bit of added security than have my chain drop.


My comp didn't come with a chain guide. It has also never dropped a chain.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> It's doesn't weight much and doesn't cause me an issue so I leave it on as I would rather have a bit of added security than have my chain drop.


I took mine off on day 1 and I have never dropped the chain. I put on a bashguard soon after, and I wouldn't have been able to do both simultaneously because they use the same mounting holes on the bottom bracket.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

I just bought an expert and the hanger was bent right out of the box. My LBS mechanic says that happens all the time with new bikes. I had him use his alignment tool to fix it properly.


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2016)

brianw7 said:


> I just bought an expert and the hanger was bent right out of the box. My LBS mechanic says that happens all the time with new bikes. I had him use his alignment tool to fix it properly.


Sad but true this can/does happen as mentioned. NIB does not equate to as it should be. Imperfections happen various ways however what's important is how it's addressed and rectified.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

The shop I got the bike from has already said they would take care of it no matter what so they are definitely making it right on their part so I couldn't ask for more. The problem is the shop is an hour drive away so I can't be taking it in there every couple days if the GX is going to keep having issues. That was my main concern back in my original post asking for opinions/first hand experience. Thanks for all the help and ideas though guys. I'll let you know how I make out tomorrow after I have it looked at.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

A friend of mine just bought this bike and let me take it for a ride tonight. That was a bad move...now I want to sell my Bad Habit and get a 6 fattie. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

prj71 said:


> A friend of mine just bought this bike and let me take it for a ride tonight. That was a bad move...now I want to sell my Bad Habit and get a 6 fattie.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I'd be interested in your reasoning and hear how you think they compare. I hopped on a Habit the other day and thought it was a fun little bike, but I wasn't sure how it would translate to a plus format.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

prj71 said:


> A friend of mine just bought this bike and let me take it for a ride tonight. That was a bad move...now I want to sell my Bad Habit and get a 6 fattie.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Yes, also interested in hearing how the SJ6F compares to the Bad Habit.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

The geometry made it a little more comfortable for me and the suspension was a lot more plush. Fox vs. Rock Shox


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

SO here's something interesting... specs on how the BB height changes vs. tire size

It brings some questions to mind... If one swaps the relatively un-wide stock rims out for wider rims, is the BB height affected? In other words, does using a wider rim lower the overall height of the tire? For example, let's say you take the original butcher 3.0 in a 29mm ID rim, and put that same tire on a 40mm ID rim. The wider rim will spread the tire casing out a bit more but will it also simultaneously lower the overall tire height?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

bad andy said:


> SO here's something interesting... specs on how the BB height changes vs. tire size
> 
> It brings some questions to mind... If one swaps the relatively un-wide stock rims out for wider rims, is the BB height affected? In other words, does using a wider rim lower the overall height of the tire? For example, let's say you take the original butcher 3.0 in a 29mm ID rim, and put that same tire on a 40mm ID rim. The wider rim will spread the tire casing out a bit more but will it also simultaneously lower the overall tire height?
> 
> View attachment 1083513


Yes, it will. 
But does it matter? If we assume it drops it by a full 11mm (the change in rim width), would you notice a 1 cm difference? Almost exactly 3.3%.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

tfinator said:


> Yes, it will.
> But does it matter? If we assume it drops it by a full 11mm (the change in rim width), would you notice a 1 cm difference? Almost exactly 3.3%.


With as low as it is now every mm counts


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> With as low as it is now every mm counts


True, I'd personally don't understand why a rider would choose to run a 2.8 tire on this bike and lower the BB by another 6mm... silly i say, silly.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Maybe if you ride in an area with little rocks and roots it wouldn't be a problem but here in the southeast good luck finding that trail. Heck just the other day I had a pedal strike climbing around a damn berm.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Drevil said:


> A few questions for y'all:
> 
> When in the largest cog/easiest gear in the back, and I backpedal a few revolutions, my chain falls off the big cog and moves/jumbles down a few cogs. Is the chainline at that end so extreme that this isn't unusual...or are my parts still broke and/or misadjusted? It stays in place if I am pedaling normally.
> My IR CC dropper post clunks a little bit - and most noticeable when fully dropped - like there's a bit of slop (twisting around of the inner shaft of the post). I can move the saddle a few millimeters back and forth if I grab the nose and just wiggle it. I've never had a dropper post before, but I've been told that's typical of them, no matter the brand.


The chainring thing is totally normal, all the 1x11 and 1x12's will pop off the largest ring when pedaling backwards.

AFAIK, the dropper twisting slightly back and forth is also completely normal. Mine did it from the beginning, and has never gotten worse. I thought I would hate it, but its been super reliable with the (almost) year of abuse I have given it. The Thompson I had would wiggle about 5mm front/back, side/side, up/down, as well as twist within a few months after each replacement.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

bad andy said:


> SO here's something interesting... specs on how the BB height changes vs. tire size
> 
> It brings some questions to mind... If one swaps the relatively un-wide stock rims out for wider rims, is the BB height affected? In other words, does using a wider rim lower the overall height of the tire? For example, let's say you take the original butcher 3.0 in a 29mm ID rim, and put that same tire on a 40mm ID rim. The wider rim will spread the tire casing out a bit more but will it also simultaneously lower the overall tire height?


The wider rim will make for a larger circumference of rim & tire, which will make a *slightly* taller tire.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

backwards....
/
/


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

scottay said:


> backwards....


Yep, as the rim gets wider the tire profile (height, circumference) will get a wee bit smaller. (phride may have had a brief brain aneurism)


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## Guest (Jul 23, 2016)

levity said:


> Yep, as the rim gets wider the tire profile (height, circumference) will get a wee bit smaller. (phride may have had a brief brain aneurism)


not so's as you'd notice


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Just a quick update guys, took my bike back to the shop on Friday morning for them to take a look at my shifting issues. Mechanic said he found the derailleur hanger ever so slightly bent and he adjusted everything back to where it needed to be. No time this weekend but I took it for a spin around the block before I left the shop and everything seems to be good to go. He also mentioned that they see a lot of new bikes that come with the hanger tweaked due to shipping and being tossed around.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

As an ex-bike shop employee, I can confirm bent slightly derailleurs on almost every bike I built.


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## Guest (Jul 24, 2016)

Thustlewhumber said:


> As an ex-bike shop employee, I can confirm bent slightly derailleurs on almost every bike I built.


derailleur or hanger, or both??


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## shaynec (Jul 22, 2016)

crfnick56 said:


> Just a quick update guys, took my bike back to the shop on Friday morning for them to take a look at my shifting issues. Mechanic said he found the derailleur hanger ever so slightly bent and he adjusted everything back to where it needed to be. No time this weekend but I took it for a spin around the block before I left the shop and everything seems to be good to go. He also mentioned that they see a lot of new bikes that come with the hanger tweaked due to shipping and being tossed around.


Mine came out of the box bent as well, after swap no problems.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Stumpjumper Carbon Comp 6Fattie First Ride:

Picked up the bike yesterday, weather was stormy so I was forced to wait until today to ride my local trails. My other bike is a Trek Stache 29+ so I thought the Stumpy 6Fattie would be a good stablemate.

1) I really like the suspension. It works very well.  On all surfaces, climbs, and descents, you can really feel that suspension working.

2) Seating position is also good, I'm 5'-11" and the bike fits me very well. I feel my CG is nice and low. Like my Trek Stache, the geometry makes me feel like I'm not riding on top of the bike, rather more a part of the bike.

3) Bottom bracket height. This was my biggest concern when reading through this thread on MTBR. On my first ride I had 6 pedal strikes in the first 6 miles. However, the last 10 miles had no pedal strikes. Maybe I cleaned up my riding style and started paying more attention to where the roots and rock are. Compared to my Stache, I'm sure there is at least 1/2" less BB clearance, although I've not measured it yet.

4) Shifting of the GX drivetrain was flawless, I have been running XX1 and GX drivetrains on all my bikes since 1x11 came out. Still a nice system, I have no complaints about shifting. The 28T ring is a bit on the small side but it does help with climbing the steep hills we have here in North GA.

5) Brakes are good. Not quite XT good but very close. Unlike the SRAM brakes that I quickly swapped out on my Stache, the Shimano brakes on the SJ6F are decent. Good enough for now anyway. Maybe the 203mm diameter front rotor helps make them at least feel strong.

6) Tires/Wheels. I'm sure the stock wheels and tires are on the heavier side. Probably would be my first upgrade would be to throw on a set of carbon wheels. However, they aren't bad. The tire choices are good, I like the Ground Control on the back, the Purgatory on the front is a pretty aggressive tire though. For my riding, I could do a GC at both ends or possibly switch to a set of Chupacabra's which are so far my favorite plus tire.

7) My only other complaint is the Specialized EMT tool doesn't come with the bike and it's like $45 to purchase it separately. Looks more like a $20 tool to me. Although I really like the idea of being able to tuck the tool up above the shock. I also like the SWAT compartment although I don't have anything in it yet.

8) Here is a pic of my bike, I know everyone knows what it looks like but we all love pictures right? Also, not a great shot but look at the difference between a 29+ tire and a paltry 27.5+ tire. I like them both and am glad I get to ride both of them. As a bonus, the SJ6F wheels and tires will mount right up to the Stache if I ever want to run "small" wheels and tires on my hardtail.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Post deleted


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

For some reason my GX RD would not be able to go far enough inboard to keep the chain on the highest cog, even with the low limit backed all the way out. Broke a chain because of it.

Swapped with X01 from my ebike and that one works fine. The GX works fine on the ebike which is non boost rear. 

Funny.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Epic_Dude said:


> Stumpjumper Carbon Comp 6Fattie First Ride:
> 
> 7) My only other complaint is the Specialized EMT tool doesn't come with the bike and it's like $45 to purchase it separately. Looks more like a $20 tool to me. Although I really like the idea of being able to tuck the tool up above the shock. I also like the SWAT compartment although I don't have anything in it yet.


That tool has become one of my favorite things, I use it almost every ride helping someone out or myself. It's just so convenient having it right under the top tube.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Murchman said:


> That tool has become one of my favorite things, I use it almost every ride helping someone out or myself. It's just so convenient having it right under the top tube.


I know right. That's why I'd like to have it in an easy to access location. It's a not as convenient to get to my multi-tool in my Camelback.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> derailleur or hanger, or both??


Like.. friggin everything. It's literally what you spend most of your time on when building a bike.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Epic_Dude said:


> 7) My only other complaint is the Specialized EMT tool doesn't come with the bike and it's like $45 to purchase it separately. Looks more like a $20 tool to me. Although I really like the idea of being able to tuck the tool up above the shock. I also like the SWAT compartment although I don't have anything in it yet.


Also as an ex-bike shop mechanic, I cannot recommend one of these enough: http://www.blackburndesign.com/tools/wayside-multi-tool.html#.V5Vl2_krLb0

Fits perfectly in the SWAT downtube.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Murchman said:


> That tool has become one of my favorite things, I use it almost every ride helping someone out or myself. It's just so convenient having it right under the top tube.


I love it too. Problem is someone loved it more than me and took it... or it might've been my own bad and I didn't seat it properly and it fell out (but I'm usually careful about reinstalling it). Either way, I had to get a new one to replace it.

I liked the SWAT concept so much that I bought the SWAT cage+tool for my fat bike so I don't need a saddle bag anymore.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

This is an interesting read on the suspension performance Specialized 6Fattie 2016 - Linkage Design


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Murchman said:


> This is an interesting read on the suspension performance Specialized 6Fattie 2016 - Linkage Design


Thanks for posting. For me, the rear suspension works well, possibly the best FS trail bike I've ridden. After using Google Translate, I see that the suspension characteristics are favorable, and more linear, when compared to the other bikes.

Also, the more I research BB height, I'm finding the SJ6F is not that bad, there are several other 27.5 plus bikes that I've found which have lower BB height specs. However, I would assume those dimensions are static, what the specs do not say is what the BB height is when the suspension is loaded with ~25% sag.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Specialized FSR has long been a favorite of mine right up there with DW Link.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Probably just a standard Fox Fork mountain bike thing, but is anyone getting a loud snap sound when hitting roots or rocks from the front (Carbon 6fattie)? Started happening about 5 or 6 rides ago so I checked the headset bearings, replaced them because they rusted out somewhat. Greased everything well… still hear the snap almost every time I take a quick hit to the front end. Any other advice? My next step is probably going to be some Loctite 290 green penetrating threadlocker in the top tube joint and sanction joints of my fork.

Oh and standing in front of my bike holding the front tire between my knees then twisting the bars produces no cracking sound… as was the case with my old Enduro with a Fox 32 Talas… what gives? Driving me nuts sounds like the bike is going to break in half, LOL


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

...


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> Probably just a standard Fox Fork mountain bike thing, but is anyone getting a loud snap sound when hitting roots or rocks from the front (Carbon 6fattie)? Started happening about 5 or 6 rides ago so I checked the headset bearings, replaced them because they rusted out somewhat. Greased everything well&#8230; still hear the snap almost every time I take a quick hit to the front end. Any other advice?


I don't think it's a Fox fork thing... i think it's a Specialized head tube thing. If I apply my front brake hard and get the back tire lifted I also get a "pop" sound in the front. Not claiming that I know where it's coming from yet, but it sounds like carbon cracking (again not saying it is, just a carbon-like sound). I am going to check the front caliper bolts, top cap, stem bolts, stem clamping bolts and finally the actual star nut itself. I might try replacing the carbon headset spacers with alloy to see if they are flexing. I am not concerned yet as it is not making this "awesome" sound whilst riding but i do want to track it down.

My 2010 Stumpy Caron hardtail was doing the same thing at the headtube and Spesh sent a new frame... but i believe the difference with that bike was the alloy cup race was bonded to the carbon frame and the bonding came loose. I think that's what the shop told me about 6 years ago


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

No issues here with a noise up front but I have had to really cranked down my stem as the headset has come loose. Took it apart and all the bearings look good just need much more force than any other headset I have had.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Murchman said:


> No issues here with a noise up front but I have had to really cranked down my stem as the headset has come loose. Took it apart and all the bearings look good just need much more force than any other headset I have had.


Yep, i agree. I think that's why I am going to start with a new star nut as it's "walking" to the top when I start to snug it. I think there's a little play in there.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@[email protected] - Can you " feel" the fork play when you hold the brakes and rock the bike back and forth, or does it just manifest when riding? It may be risky to over tighten the binder bolt as this can out too much preload the bearings and cause wear.

The Park Tool site on Threadless Headset Service says to "gently secure the top bolt". The stem bolts can then be tightened securely, usually to about 4.5 Nm (45 in.lb.). I use a 5 Nm Torque-key for the stem and handlebar binder bolts.

Threadless Headset Service | Park Tool


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I only feel it once I begin ridding, it feels like a loose wheel. When I stop and rock it there is no play. Once I crank down the stem the feeling goes away. I would like to put a King or CaneCreek headset in it but that's really not an option due the cups being part of the frame.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@Murch - Hmmm. @Darkhorse13 listed a lot of good possibilities. Alloy spacers would be easy/good to try if you're using a lot to raise the stem. Could even just slam the stem, no spacer below it, to see if the problem persists. Are you sure the top cap is pulling the fork up snug? Do you have a spacer under the top cap?


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## mblock (Jan 22, 2007)

Epic_Dude said:


> Yes, also interested in hearing how the SJ6F compares to the Bad Habit.


So I'm the one who sold the Bad Habit 2 to get the 6fattie and it was the right decision. 
I admit I was more enamored with the orange color of the Bad Habit than anything else. It was definitely a downgrade in parts from my previous bike (Trek Fuel EX 29 w/ 130mm Pike RCT3) but I was too curious about plus wheels. Not being completely satisfied with the stock Bad Habit build I built new wheels (Easton ARC40's) and swapped the Reba for a Fox Factory 34 (130mm). Both were great improvements but the rear end still wasn't up to par with Trek's full floater/ABP design. It often felt like I was getting brake jack in rough sections (right when you want suspension to work!). I had also had a chance to rent/demo a few longer travel bikes this year (Santa Cruz Hightower, Yeti SB4.5c, Rocky Mountain Altitude) so I had a lot of other suspension designs to compare. The Bad Habit just wasn't as great, it is still a good bike...just not great. I think a lot of it has to do with the single pivot suspension design (no pivot by the dropout, just flexing seat stays)

So I lucked out and scored a deal on an orange 6Fattie comp. I'm familiar with Specialized FSR designs so I knew generally what I was getting into, just not with big tires. So yeah it is way more plush than the Bad Habit but the 6fattie has a lot more suspension travel and the rear suspension just works better. I would say the FSR 6fattie pedals as well as (if not better) than the single pivot BH (which did pedal well btw). The stumpy costs a lot more but you get a way better build (Fox 34, SRAM GX, dropper etc. vs. SLX 2x10, Reba, boat anchor wheels on the Bad Habit 2). Fit and finish also just seem higher quality on the Specialized. It is often rare that I get on a new bike and don't feel like I absolutely need to change things out. So far all I've done to the 6fattie is go tubeless. Big tires....bigger travel.....it's an awesome bike!

I will also comment on rim width since I know that was a big topic of discussion in this thread. I've had a chance to ride a few different rim/tire combo's: WTB Bridger's on Scraper i45, 2.8 Nobby Nics on Scraper i45, 2.8 Nobby Nics on Easton ARC40 i40 and now the Specialized Purg/GC on i29 Roval's. Width/volume have a big affect on what pressure works best. For starters I weigh about 185 lbs: the Bridger's/Scraper combo I never ran much over 13 psi or they felt like a rock, the 2.8 Nobby Nic/Scraper combo I had to bring that up to 14 psi, the Nobby Nic/ARC 40 combo was more around 15 psi and now with the 3.0 Specialized/i29 rims I'm running 16/17 psi which feels like better plush/grip as any of the other combo's. I also like the more rounded profile of the 3.0 on an i29 rim. The other combos with i40/i45 and 2.8 felt like they had a weird spot when trying to lean over into a corner. I never get that with the Specialized tire/rim combo. That being said a little more sidewall support might be good so if I build new wheels I'm going with and i35 rim or something close.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Have any 6fattie owners any thoughts on upping the fork travel to a 160mm model? Any math wiz's care to extrapolate how much that might raise the bottom bracket?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

bad andy said:


> Have any 6fattie owners any thoughts on upping the fork travel to a 160mm model? Any math wiz's care to extrapolate how much that might raise the bottom bracket?


I think Murchman tried it this summer. Check for his posts in this thread. I don't think he liked it, but read his post to be sure.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks for the comparison report and the wheel/tire discussion. I've also been really happy with the i29s, a bit to my surprise, although I'm sure the hubs have a limited lifespan.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

levity said:


> The Park Tool site on Threadless Headset Service says to "gently secure the top bolt". The stem bolts can then be tightened securely, usually to about 4.5 Nm (45 in.lb.). I use a 5 Nm Torque-key for the stem and handlebar binder bolts.
> 
> Threadless Headset Service | Park Tool


I'll try this before my next ride, last few times I really torqued the top bolt, thinking it would cause the head tube to get 'egged' out if it were to have any play. Just going to snug things up and tighten the stem bolts well.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Drevil said:


> I think Murchman tried it this summer. Check for his posts in this thread. I don't think he liked it, but read his post to be sure.


Yep I made the switch and went back after a week of riding with it at 160mm. It ruined the balance of bike for me and the added travel a slacker HA wasn't an improvement. Now if I only went down hill I might re-think it but I still have to earn my down hills.


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

bad andy said:


> Have any 6fattie owners any thoughts on upping the fork travel to a 160mm model? Any math wiz's care to extrapolate how much that might raise the bottom bracket?


I am running a 160 Pike 27+ boost dual pos. BB is a bit low on the 130 setting but despite more pedal strikes i am climbing way better than with 150 fox 34 float.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

First ride with the Grid Purgatory's Lee Likes Bikes

He didn't go into detail on how the rode uphill but the downhill sounds good.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

levity said:


> @Murch - Hmmm. @Darkhorse13 listed a lot of good possibilities. Alloy spacers would be easy/good to try if you're using a lot to raise the stem. Could even just slam the stem, no spacer below it, to see if the problem persists. Are you sure the top cap is pulling the fork up snug? Do you have a spacer under the top cap?


@levity... Sorry, late to the party. I have zero headset play when applying the front brake and rocking the bars front to back. It takes a sudden and forceful application to the front end to replicate the "pop". I really think I don't have the top cap snug enough. 4.5Nm on the top cap would walk the star nut up the steerer tube... I need to replace the star nut to really start diagnosis.

And yes, I re-greased the stock headset bearings, cups, and fork crown race... OH, forgot to ask... Is everyone's crown race a "split race design"? What i mean by this, is that usually I have had a press-on crown race that is a one-piece. The 6fattie has one that comes on and off by hand and is not press-on. Below is an internet picture of what mine looks like (not my pic). Not saying it's causing the issue but I personally have not had a bike with this style crown race.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Yes, my 6fattie expert has that same 'split race' design... first time I have seen anything like that. Sure made it easy to replace everything when Spec sent me a new headset after mine rusted out


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Yes mine also has the same thing as well as my son's and wife's Stumpies and hers is from 2008


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TEvans73 said:


> Yes, my 6fattie expert has that same 'split race' design... first time I have seen anything like that. Sure made it easy to replace everything when Spec sent me a new headset after mine rusted out


Same type on my S-Works. I've seen them before on other FSA headsets.

And yes, my stem gets loose every once in a while. I have a Thomson 50mm stem, and there is a little bit of steerer sticking out above it when placed in the position I want. I try to do that with all my bikes so the stem has complete purchase on the steerer. I just think that there is a lot of leverage coming from a long fork and short headtube, because this has happened on other bikes as well with the similar "long fork/short headtube" designs.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Drevil said:


> ... there is a little bit of steerer sticking out above it when placed in the position I want...


@Drevil's correct. Just make sure you use a tall enough spacer above the stem so the cap engages the spacer/stem (and not the steerer tube!) to apply preload to the headset.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

I just wanted to share a maintenance experience with everybody. At some point if you do your own maintenance, you will be replacing the Fox 34 dust wipers and fork oil. I just got done with mine. If you've done this before you'll know what I'm talking about. If you haven't, you can find the process well documented on the ridefox website. 
Anyway, after you get the lowers off of the fork and drain the oil it's time to pop out the seals. I've done this in several forks before with no issues. However, on the Fox 34 it was a different story. When I tried to pry the seals out, they came out in pieces. The part of the seals that came in contact with the inner part of the fork stuck so bad that it looked like someone used locktight when installing them. After an hour of trying everything I could think of to include heating them with a hairdryer, and even using a flame to try to get them out, I was defeated. In a last ditch effort I looked on line to see if anyone else had this problem. I found 1 post from a couple of years ago from a guy with the same problem. He recommended actually boiling the rubber seals in water. With nothing to lose, I grabbed a big stock pot, filled it with water and turned on the heat. When the water was boiling I turned the fork lower upside down and submerged the crown just past the seals. I let them boil for a couple of minutes and removed them from the water. I then tried to pry them out again. VOILA!!!! They popped right out! Believe me when I tell you, without this tip, I would have ruined the lower trying to get the seals out. 
So when you decide to do this maintenance, keep that in mind. Oh and it was well worth doing. The oil was pretty dirty and it is much smoother now. One other thing I did that isn't in the instructions is I put one Float Fluid pillow pack into the air chamber where the volume spacers are located. That really smoothed things out over the way it was. Just remember to purge ALL AIR before removing the top of the air chamber or you will create a missile. 
As far as the headset bearings go, I remove and grease mine every 8 or 10 rides. Keeps it nice and quiet and it only takes a couple of minutes. 
One last thing and I'll shut up. When I did the maintenance on the dropper post from the Vimeo video, I noticed that my rear tire had kicked up a gob of pine pitch onto the seat post inner slider. That got inside the rubber seal and REALLY slowed things down when I pushed the remote to return the post to full extension. I cleaned that mess up and re-greased the inner mechanism with slick honey. Now it's smooth as butter. 
I hope this info can help someone else. 
Now I must RIDE!!!!


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Good tip. I did a service on my fox 34. The seals were tight, but popped right out with a large 18mm open end wrench as a lever.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Every time I go for a ride on this bike I love it more. A view from a little air time on tonight's ride. Hopefully this gets you stoked to get out and ride!


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Murchman said:


> Every time I go for a ride on this bike I love it more. A view from a little air time on tonight's ride. Hopefully this gets you stoked to get out and ride!
> 
> View attachment 1084989


That's a great view. What kind of chest mount are you using?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Standard GoPro chesty with the camera mounted upside down and two fingers underneath to get the angle right


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

darkhorse13 said:


> think it's a Specialized head tube thing. If I apply my front brake hard and get the back tire lifted I also get a "pop" sound in the front. Not claiming that I know where it's coming from yet, but it sounds like carbon cracking (again not saying it is, just a carbon-like sound).


Everything in the headset greased with PPL-2, top bolt just snugged and stem tight to spec&#8230; bounce a few times and hit the front brake firm, SOUNDED LIKE MY BIKE WAS GOING TO SPIT IN HALF! LOL. Made a few adjustments on the trail today&#8230; same results. I'm going to try again tomorrow by cleaning everything up with isopropyl alcohol and setting the bearings in dry, only putting grease on the metal to metal contact points (fork/bearings) &#8230; then it's back to my LBS. (Carbon 6fattie)
BTW - anyone with the Shimano XT breaks with the metallic pads (Ice-tech) having an insane amount of 'turkey gobble'? it's fine for about the first mile of the descent, then after things start heating up in the rear break there is no modulation (grab) and a crazy amount of noise.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Saw the new 2017 Comp SJ 6fattie at the bike shop yesterday. Price dropped to $2900 and outfitted with Rock Shox instead of Fox. Revelation Fork and I'm not sure which model shock in the rear. 

Red with black Specialized logo on the side of the downtube. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Ugh. The Revelation is a serious downgrade from the Fox34. When they switched to Rock Shox, I had assumed they'd go to the Yari, Lyric & Pike. Going to the Revelation makes no sense on this bike. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

TEvans73 said:


> Everything in the headset greased with PPL-2, top bolt just snugged and stem tight to spec&#8230; bounce a few times and hit the front brake firm, SOUNDED LIKE MY BIKE WAS GOING TO SPIT IN HALF! LOL. Made a few adjustments on the trail today&#8230; same results. I'm going to try again tomorrow by cleaning everything up with isopropyl alcohol and setting the bearings in dry, only putting grease on the metal to metal contact points (fork/bearings) &#8230; then it's back to my LBS. (Carbon 6fattie)
> BTW - anyone with the Shimano XT breaks with the metallic pads (Ice-tech) having an insane amount of 'turkey gobble'? it's fine for about the first mile of the descent, then after things start heating up in the rear break there is no modulation (grab) and a crazy amount of noise.


Are you using the stock headset? It's garbage. Mine would click and creak within a few rides of being cleaned / greased. The lower bearing separated a few times too. 
Search back through this thread, I posted part numbers for better bearings that work. (note the the cane creek headset finder gives bad recommendations for this bike)


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

TEvans73 said:


> BTW - anyone with the Shimano XT breaks with the metallic pads (Ice-tech) having an insane amount of 'turkey gobble'? it's fine for about the first mile of the descent, then after things start heating up in the rear break there is no modulation (grab) and a crazy amount of noise.


Mine has XTR and I have had brake noise and issues with the rear since I bought it. It was finally not making noise and then I went off and did a brake bleed as I was loosing lever. Now I am back to this, notice my hand is off the rear brake yet the noise is still going. Going to spend the morning lubing up the pistons and re-centering the pads.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Murchman said:


> ... notice my hand is off the rear brake yet the noise is still going. Going to spend the morning lubing up the pistons and re-centering the pads.


Ugh, the rear XT caliper on my 2015 Camber did the same thing. I tried lubing the pistons, pushing them in and out, recentering them, etc., to no avail. LBS swapped the caliper for a new one, and still did it just to a lesser degree. For me the noise occurred only following hard braking on downhill switchbacks. I think what was going on was that the pistons don't retract as well as they should (I think it's just a small rubber ring pulling on them), and any rear triangle flex allows the pads to drag. Never had it on any other bike, and fortunately the lower end Deore brakes on my Comp Carbon 6Fattie don't do it!


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

majr said:


> Are you using the stock headset? It's garbage. Mine would click and creak within a few rides of being cleaned / greased. The lower bearing separated a few times too.


I am still using the stock headset, however my LBS just gave me a completely new stack a few rides ago - although I was requesting something other than the stock (after reading this forum ). They said it was a proprietary bearing size and I needed to use the one from specialized.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Murchman said:


>


Sounds exactly like my XTs, was driving me nuts&#8230; I fixed mine by installing an iPod and playing Rage against the machine at near max volume.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

TEvans73 said:


> I am still using the stock headset, however my LBS just gave me a completely new stack a few rides ago - although I was requesting something other than the stock (after reading this forum ). They said it was a proprietary bearing size and I needed to use the one from specialized.


http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/new-2016-stumpy-fsr-redesign-963323-91.html#post12755253


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Check it out all, 6fattie Expert just when on sale! I bought mine about 3 months ago and love it! So if you've been on the fence about price, now is the time. No regrets here as I don't think I would have wanted to waste half the summer not riding.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-6fattie/107080


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Mine has XTR and I have had brake noise and issues with the rear since I bought it. It was finally not making noise and then I went off and did a brake bleed as I was loosing lever. Now I am back to this, notice my hand is off the rear brake yet the noise is still going. Going to spend the morning lubing up the pistons and re-centering the pads.


Your wheel needs readjusted/tightened. If you wiggle your rear tire, you will notice that the entire wheel move side to side which causes your disc to come in contact with your brake pads which causes the rubbing noise. I had to have mine done twice.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Wow. That's a heck of a price on the expert. I'd like to know what 2017 will look like. I need one more bike in the garage so that we can all ride at once!


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Derek200 said:


> I'd like to know what 2017 will look like.


Page 57 post #1423


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Your wheel needs readjusted/tightened. If you wiggle your rear tire, you will notice that the entire wheel move side to side which causes your disc to come in contact with your brake pads which causes the rubbing noise. I had to have mine done twice.


Wheel is tight and just fine, the issue is down to the pad not retracting enough after hard braking. After I cleaned them up and lubed the pistons everything was much better.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

So, you guys who have been riding on the EVOL sleeve, have any of you gone to using volume spacers or plan to? I'm trying to figure out just what to order. Any information on riding style and rider mass would be appreciated. (John, I'm pretty sure I know your answer.)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> So, you guys who have been riding on the EVOL sleeve, have any of you gone to using volume spacers or plan to? I'm trying to figure out just what to order. Any information on riding style and rider mass would be appreciated. (John, I'm pretty sure I know your answer.)
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I'm a big guy 6'2 225lbs suited up and I have not needed to added spacers as the EVOL can has solved the bottom out issue for me. The spacers are cheap though so you might as well get some just in case.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> I'm a big guy 6'2 225lbs suited up and I have not needed to added spacers as the EVOL can has solved the bottom out issue for me. The spacers are cheap though so you might as well get some just in case.


Thanks. How hard would you say that you ride it? That is, how hard are the hits that the shock takes?

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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

You can check out some of my videos to judge for yourself but I would say I am somewhat aggressive trail rider.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

TEvans73 said:


> Check it out all, 6fattie Expert just when on sale! I bought mine about 3 months ago and love it! So if you've been on the fence about price, now is the time. No regrets here as I don't think I would have wanted to waste half the summer not riding.
> 
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-6fattie/107080


I picked up my 2016 SJ6F Comp Carbon for $2,000 less at my LBS, I looked at the Expert but didn't see the value in spending the extra money for what you get. It appears Specialized is way overstocked on the SJ6F's this year. Although I like the dark grey paint on the Expert, I figure for what I saved I could upgrade my wheels and crankset to shed a few lbs but I'm in no hurry. The bike rides really nice just the way it is. The only thing I've added so far is the EMT MTB tool (should have come with the bike), and I've removed the tubes. For anyone looking for a 27.5+ bike, you can't beat the deals that are available right now.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> So, you guys who have been riding on the EVOL sleeve, have any of you gone to using volume spacers or plan to? I'm trying to figure out just what to order. Any information on riding style and rider mass would be appreciated. (John, I'm pretty sure I know your answer.)
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Hey phride,
I have not used any volume spacers with the EVOL sleeve. In fact, I am not even using the full travel of the rear @ 29% sag. I went from bottoming out to not being able to use all the travel after the EVOL. Damned if I do damned if i don't  I am going to play with slightly over 30% sag now.

Don't misinterpret this though, the EVOL sleeve is still every bit as plush and I can't push it hard enough now! Much better problem to have than the sub-par autosag sleeve. By far the best sub $80 upgrade to the bike's performance.

Also, we don't have "jumps" where I live. Just a few drops of about 2-3 feet on the downhills. Enough to bottom out the old autosag sleeve though. I still want to hear from *Drevil *about his hang time with the new EVOL sleeve... that dude can fly.

John


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks. I'm guessing that I won't need the spacers, given that you've got 35# on me, Murchman, and while my preferred terrain might be rougher, I'm not given to going airborne unless necessary.


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## Terex (Jan 30, 2004)

My '16 Expert arrives at the LBS tomorrow - can't wait! My wife got her Rhyme last week and she's taken it on a couple of easy rides. She just loves it.

I have an old Titus Racer-X and was in need of a serious upgrade. I rode my buddy's 26.5 Stumpie and his 29. I liked the 29 a lot. When I demo'd bikes from the LBS I rode their 29'er first, and then the 6fattie. I liked the way the 29er rolled, but loved everything about the fattie. My buddy was riding his 29er in front of me through a sandy dry wash and was all over the place. The 6fattie was like riding on solid dirt. The only place I found that the 29er had better traction was on deep pine needles. The 9'er stayed planted and the fattie started to float around - the opposite of the sand.

Thanks to everyone for all the information. Everything from the seat stay protector (there isn't one on my wife's  ) to the extensive discussion on shocks. Thanks again!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

2017's come with Purgatories with GRID casing front and REAR. (no GC rear).

They also come with Rockshox Yari forks, Monarch rear, Guide brakes, and the same 29mm ID rims.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> Thanks. I'm guessing that I won't need the spacers, given that you've got 35# on me, Murchman, and while my preferred terrain might be rougher, I'm not given to going airborne unless necessary.


Believe it or not I don't use as much travel when I get air as I do when I am really hammering a trail. For the most part the air time is normally on a jump that has a nice landing and not to flat so it actually pretty smooth. Now when I case a jump bad that's a whole different story.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey phride,
> I have not used any volume spacers with the EVOL sleeve. In fact, I am not even using the full travel of the rear @ 29% sag. I went from bottoming out to not being able to use all the travel after the EVOL. Damned if I do damned if i don't  I am going to play with slightly over 30% sag now.
> 
> Don't misinterpret this though, the EVOL sleeve is still every bit as plush and I can't push it hard enough now! Much better problem to have than the sub-par autosag sleeve. By far the best sub $80 upgrade to the bike's performance.
> ...


Haha, unlike Murchman and darkhorse, I am much less discerning with setup. Coming from a full rigid, this bike is a godsend. That is to say that I don't have a lot of experience with suspension to notice little differences. If nuances are pointed out, (like those two often do), I might notice it, like the travel doesn't go all the way down the shaft like it used to with the old sleeve.

I _can_ tell when the bike is clunking, and changing to the EVOL sleeve totally eliminated bottoming out. I used to get them on most rides while boosting and catching little airs heres and theres. FYI, I'm ~165lbs, and I'm guessing a little over 170lbs when clothed, helmeted, and shoed. I pumped my rear shock to 210psi.

DH13, I think you might have mistaken me for a dirt jumper. Generally I'm too scared (and old) to hit a proper double. However, if conditions are right, I might boost a little 


Stumpy by ricky d, on Flickr


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> DH13, I think you might have mistaken me for a dirt jumper. Generally I'm too scared (and old) to hit a proper double. However, if conditions are right, I might boost a little
> 
> 
> Stumpy by ricky d, on Flickr


Oh the modesty... that's more air than I've ever seen in 20 years on my bike.


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## Guest (Aug 2, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Oh the modesty... that's more air than I've ever seen in 20 years on my bike.


i need a freekin 4ft ladder to get up dere.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Drevil said:


> Haha, unlike Murchman and darkhorse, I am much less discerning with setup. Coming from a full rigid, this bike is a godsend. That is to say that I don't have a lot of experience with suspension to notice little differences. If nuances are pointed out, (like those two often do), I might notice it, like the travel doesn't go all the way down the shaft like it used to with the old sleeve.
> 
> I _can_ tell when the bike is clunking, and changing to the EVOL sleeve totally eliminated bottoming out. I used to get them on most rides while boosting and catching little airs heres and theres. FYI, I'm ~165lbs, and I'm guessing a little over 170lbs when clothed, helmeted, and shoed. I pumped my rear shock to 210psi.
> 
> ...


I assume that you are running it without any volume spacers, as well, yes? If so, that settles it for me. I bottom out hard every third ride or so. It's entirely terrain dependent, rather than a measure of my own aggression. There's simply a certain amount of force that builds-up when you hit a 20-foot roller that's too steep for effective breaking.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

phride said:


> I assume that you are running it without any volume spacers, as well, yes? If so, that settles it for me. I bottom out hard every third ride or so. It's entirely terrain dependent, rather than a measure of my own aggression. There's simply a certain amount of force that builds-up when you hit a 20-foot roller that's too steep for effective breaking.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I'm not sure. I can't remember if there was any volume spacers there when I opened it, but I just changed the sleeve and nothing else. So if it's something extra, then I don't. If there was one already in there when you first buy it, then I guess I do


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So.... I just put an order in for a 2017 Stumpy 6Fattie comp carbon, in "CARB/NENBLU/WHT" :thumbsup:








Expected late OCT :eekster:

or, do I change my mind and have the ability to ride NEXT WEEK on the Ronald McDonald edition, or ho-hum Black/Silver :idea:


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Hate to say it but I am a fan of the McDonalds one but I also like to be flashy on the trail.


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## Terex (Jan 30, 2004)

*New Kids on the Block*

Sorry for the screwy image


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hey everyone, I think we broke the number of pages in the thread... is anyone else on seeing 32 pages? We were at i think 64 this morning? What did we lose?


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## Terex (Jan 30, 2004)

I think the total number of posts looks the same, close to 1600. Did they double the number of posts per page?


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Murchman said:


> Wheel is tight and just fine, the issue is down to the pad not retracting enough after hard braking. After I cleaned them up and lubed the pistons everything was much better.


Had a ton of 'ghost' break noise today in the rear&#8230; almost like there is vibration and sticking after the lever is released??? Rear axle is tight so I'm going to try and lube the pistons tonight, what did you use Murchman? Mineral oil, chain lube?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

TEvans73 said:


> Had a ton of 'ghost' break noise today in the rear&#8230; almost like there is vibration and sticking after the lever is released??? Rear axle is tight so I'm going to try and lube the pistons tonight, what did you use Murchman? Mineral oil, chain lube?


Use the fluid that the brakes use to lube the pistons. Dot for sram, mineral oil for shimano ( in general, I don't know if there are exceptions, but it should say on the reservoir body)


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

TEvans73 said:


> Had a ton of 'ghost' break noise today in the rear&#8230; almost like there is vibration and sticking after the lever is released??? Rear axle is tight so I'm going to try and lube the pistons tonight, what did you use Murchman? Mineral oil, chain lube?


First thing I do is get this pistons pushed out a good ways but not all the way and then I use a q-tip dipped in alcohol to clean up the pistons. Then I get another q-tip and dip it in mineral oil and coat the pistons and push them back in. I then push them back out and in a few times to make sure they get lubed up. Push them back in one final time and then spray the brake down with alcohol again to make sure you get all the oil off so it doesn't splatter on the disc.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Any of my friends here want (1) *FREE *29x3.0 Fat B Nimble tire? This tire can be ridden but I highly recommend that you read the following first.

Before you get too jumpy, please read the following below...

1) the tire is decently new with a handful of rides.
2) tire has a small pinhole in the sidewall that needs to be patched or use sealant before riding. when i had the tire mounted, one of the little glitter flakes in the orange seal plugged it up.
3) I have shaved down a few of the center knobs when I was playing with fitment. Took a tin snips and cut about 10 consecutive center knobs in half (see pic)... it's the equivalent of wearing down a tire from riding, nothing is cut in a fashion to be dangerous to your riding.
4) you got to cover shipping... i will ship as cheap as possible...heck if I find a large enough carrier pigeon I'll use it.
5) come see for yourself what every rider is complaining about with the FBN!!!

if you'e still reading and all of these terms are agreed upon then shoot me an IM. First IM gets the (1) tire and I will delete this post.

John


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

EVOL cans on back order from Fox til Sept 16th. Anybody know of anyone else that has them? Thx


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So today was the first day I bottomed out the travel on the back since putting on the EVOL. The is the first day in at least a month where the humidity wasn't 80%-90% and 95 degrees out so I was able to really ride hard. It didn't bottom on landings of jumps but more of the g-outs from railing corners. I still am not going to add a spacer yet as once or twice during a ride bottom out isn't bad.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

> EVOL cans on back order from Fox til Sept 16th. Anybody know of anyone else that has them? Thx


I know, put my order in last month and my LBS told me mid-August&#8230;


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

6fattie Expert owners. My Shimano XT rear caliber bolts have set of two cupped silver washers however the front does not. Just wondering if this is by design or something was missed? Reason I’m asking is I’m currently experiencing issues that may or may not be related. Thanks!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

TEvans73 said:


> 6fattie Expert owners. My Shimano XT rear caliber bolts have set of two cupped silver washers however the front does not. Just wondering if this is by design or something was missed? Reason I'm asking is I'm currently experiencing issues that may or may not be related. Thanks!


Hmm, those washers look a lot like Avid's older CPS mounting system. They're used to allow the caliper to be the correct height from the mounting standoffs so that the rotor contact is even, and as well to allow the caliper to align to the rotor uniformly.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

Not specific to the 6fattie, but I bought some Saint brakes and they came with the conical washers. If you put the washers under the caliper where they could actually adjust an ill faced mount, the brake pads would sweep a smaller area of the disc surface than they should have. When the washers were placed above the caliper where they cannot possibly serve any adjustment purposes, they seemed to space the supplied bolts properly. On one hand perhaps it's nice of Shimano to supply different options, but seemed like a bit of a trap for someone who didn't notice properly.


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## willembad (Feb 2, 2013)

Doesn't make much sense to me either, but Shimano shows installation on page 9 of this http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-BR0005-01-ENG.pdf with the washers under the bolt head.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Anyone know what derailleur hanger is used on this Bike? I've had mine straightened twice now and I want to pick up a spare.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

It's the same as on the other FSRs, unchanged from 2014, if not longer. I picked up a spare from my LBS when I bought the bike. I'd take a photo, but it's packed away pending a vacation.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

After looking for a entry level plus FS and almost buying a Trek 27.5+ this week ,I pulled the trigger on a black comp 6fattie Stumpjumper today. LBS thinks it might be in on Thur.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> 6fattie Expert owners. My Shimano XT rear caliber bolts have set of two cupped silver washers however the front does not. Just wondering if this is by design or something was missed? Reason I'm asking is I'm currently experiencing issues that may or may not be related. Thanks!


I just checked: I have them on mine both front and rear. I have the 200mm rotor front and 180mm rear, but maybe you have the medium frame that has the 180mm rotor on the front? Either way, those are cheap (if not free) at any bike shop if you ask nicely.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

2old said:


> After looking for a entry level plus FS and almost buying a Trek 27.5+ this week ,I pulled the trigger on a black comp 6fattie Stumpjumper today. LBS thinks it might be in on Thur.


I purchased a Trek 29+ in May, then decided I also wanted a 27+ FS and found a great deal on a SJ6FCC and purchased it a few weeks ago. I really like having plus size tires under me.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

When I released air out of shock to work the autosag, my fingers get covered in oil. Is that normal?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Derek200 said:


> When I released air out of shock to work the autosag, my fingers get covered in oil. Is that normal?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes there is Float Fluid in the air can to keep it lubed up.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

So if autosag sets up too soft. Which valve do I add more air to?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Derek200 said:


> So if autosag sets up too soft. Which valve do I add more air to?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You only use the Black valve to add air. Never put air in the red one.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

That's what I thought. But wasn't sure 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Hey guys, I remember reading, but I can't find it right now and I am slammed with work, the part numbers for the EVOL sleeve kit? My girlfriend and I both want to put this kit on our 6fatties. Should I just call Fox or does someone have the exact part numbers for everything I need? 

One more question, riding bike parks has eaten away my rear brake for the second time I am putting pads in. What brake setups do you guys recommend for very aggressive riding? I am looking at changing rotors with it as well. The bike is an all around bike, summer time though it sees alot of park riding until I can afford DH. 

Thank you for any and all input, and sorry for being that guy lol. -G


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

lvkid89 said:


> Hey guys, I remember reading, but I can't find it right now and I am slammed with work, the part numbers for the EVOL sleeve kit? My girlfriend and I both want to put this kit on our 6fatties. Should I just call Fox or does someone have the exact part numbers for everything I need?
> 
> One more question, riding bike parks has eaten away my rear brake for the second time I am putting pads in. What brake setups do you guys recommend for very aggressive riding? I am looking at changing rotors with it as well. The bike is an all around bike, summer time though it sees alot of park riding until I can afford DH.
> 
> Thank you for any and all input, and sorry for being that guy lol. -G


Sorry I don't have the part number handy but when you call up Fox they will get you the right one.

As for brakes I would put Saints on to get the dual pistons if you're doing a lot of park riding. Get the ice tech rotors as well.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

lvkid89 said:


> Hey guys, I remember reading, but I can't find it right now and I am slammed with work, the part numbers for the EVOL sleeve kit? My girlfriend and I both want to put this kit on our 6fatties. Should I just call Fox or does someone have the exact part numbers for everything I need?
> 
> One more question, riding bike parks has eaten away my rear brake for the second time I am putting pads in. What brake setups do you guys recommend for very aggressive riding? I am looking at changing rotors with it as well. The bike is an all around bike, summer time though it sees alot of park riding until I can afford DH.
> 
> Thank you for any and all input, and sorry for being that guy lol. -G


Threads #1091-1092 and #1230


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

lvkid89 said:


> One more question, riding bike parks has eaten away my rear brake for the second time I am putting pads in. What brake setups do you guys recommend for very aggressive riding? I am looking at changing rotors with it as well. The bike is an all around bike, summer time though it sees alot of park riding until I can afford DH.


Metal pads for sure on the rear, and if that doesn't work put on some Zees.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

So I read through most of this (33 pages) and didn't see much on sizing. Can people post what they are riding size-wise? Height / inseam. I'm 5'9.5" with a longer inseam (33.65") and looks like thats on the in-between for M/L... the large seemed huge at the LBS.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

ejewels said:


> So I read through most of this (33 pages) and didn't see much on sizing. Can people post what they are riding size-wise? Height / inseam. I'm 5'9.5" with a longer inseam (33.65") and looks like thats on the in-between for M/L... the large seemed huge at the LBS.


5'8. Med. But I couldn't get the seatpost slammed enough to get my ideal pedaling height without modifications. The aluminum frames have a weld that interrupts the seat tube earlier than on the carbon models. Double check that before you buy.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

So that means the medium is actually too large for what you want? or too small?


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

I'm 6'0" 32"ish inseam, the large is great for me. The seat post could still go down an inch and a half or so.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

NothinSpecial said:


> I'm 6'0" 32"ish inseam, the large is great for me. The seat post could still go down an inch and a half or so.


yeah it's tough because the reach seems perfect if not a tad longer on the large for me... Just not sure if all around its too big


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

ejewels, I'm about the same height and I just bought a large. I rode them both with the shop owner and during the medium ride my knees were almost hitting the handlebars. Hope this helps.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

2old said:


> ejewels, I'm about the same height and I just bought a large. I rode them both with the shop owner and during the medium ride my knees were almost hitting the handlebars. Hope this helps.


thanks. So you're 5'9ish with larger inseam too? I thought I was crazy but the large felt right. Just worried how nimble it will be.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Thank you everyone for the help above. 

I am 5'6" 29-30 inseam on a small and I absolutely love it.


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## Rob Ert (Oct 8, 2015)

So I just read that the SJ 6fattie was dropped from the line up. I read it on a FB link but I cant find it again.


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Rob Ert said:


> So I just read that the SJ 6fattie was dropped from the line up. I read it on a FB link but I cant find it again.


Sounds like you got some bad info. These are all brand new 2017 models.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/sworks-stumpjumper-fsr-6fattie/118409

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-pro-carbon-6fattie/118410

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-carbon-6fattie/118362

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-comp-carbon-6fattie/118412

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-comp-6fattie/118413


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## Rob Ert (Oct 8, 2015)

That's good to hear.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

ejewels said:


> So I read through most of this (33 pages) and didn't see much on sizing. Can people post what they are riding size-wise? Height / inseam. I'm 5'9.5" with a longer inseam (33.65") and looks like thats on the in-between for M/L... the large seemed huge at the LBS.


5'9", 32" inseam = medium for me. I also went from 65mm stem to 50mm. I'm happy with the sizing.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

There seems to be two schools of thought. Longer bike or smaller and nimble. Seems many prefer longer with short stem. Argh, decisions! I can't believe this. I love this bike and can't decide on the size. Why can't spesh do a M/L? My perfect reach is about 420-430. If you look at other bikes in the market, their mediums are longer. So, would putting a longer stem on the medium be a bad thing? Or Would the large be better. Maybe thats the question.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Drevil said:


> 5'9", 32" inseam = medium for me. I also went from 65mm stem to 50mm. I'm happy with the sizing.


32" pants or cycling inseam? Cycling is the actual inside of your leg to the floor measurement.


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

SO should I get the 16 or 17 Stumpjumper fattie 6 and why


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## Guest (Aug 10, 2016)

YORK25 said:


> SO should I get the 16 or 17 Stumpjumper fattie 6 and why


17=yes because you can..


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

nvphatty said:


> 17=yes because you can..


The reason I was asking is because the front fork went to rock shock to Fox and the cranks went from GX to Raceface.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I would go 16, save money, get Shimano brakes, and the Fox 34 is incredible


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

YORK25 said:


> The reason I was asking is because the front fork went to rock shock to Fox and the cranks went from GX to Raceface.


Looking back, I'm glad I went with the 2016 Expert, I've always liked Fox suspension. Only thing I would have wanted on the 2017 is the carbon rear&#8230; but I'm thinking that can be swapped out at a later date. I think the 2016 Expert lines up with the 2017 Pro, and the 2017 doesn't have the carbon cranks.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Murchman said:


> Mine has XTR and I have had brake noise and issues with the rear since I bought it. It was finally not making noise and then I went off and did a brake bleed as I was loosing lever. Now I am back to this, notice my hand is off the rear brake yet the noise is still going. Going to spend the morning lubing up the pistons and re-centering the pads.


I don't count this as a fix, but finally out of frustration I took my bike into the shop&#8230; went through everything. Shop mechanic noticed that the left side piston was being 'lazy' and not retracting all the way so instead of centering the pads with the rotor he adjusted the calipers so the left side had just a little bit more room. So far so good, not break noise! I have a big ride tomorrow so I'm happy just to have it partially fixed, will look into it more possible warranty it at a later date.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

On a non-sizing note... The geometry gives specs for 2.3x29 and 3.0x650b on the 6fattie page. Am I right in thinking I could run 29" tires on this thing and wider rims (if sticking with 3.0")?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

TEvans73 said:


> I don't count this as a fix, but finally out of frustration I took my bike into the shop&#8230; went through everything. Shop mechanic noticed that the left side piston was being 'lazy' and not retracting all the way so instead of centering the pads with the rotor he adjusted the calipers so the left side had just a little bit more room. So far so good, not break noise! I have a big ride tomorrow so I'm happy just to have it partially fixed, will look into it more possible warranty it at a later date.


So far mine have been doing really well since I clean and lubed them up. I still get a little noise after being on them hard and long but only when I let go. I tap the brake and the noise is gone. I actually use it now to remind me to stay off the brakes and carry more speed, not sure if that a good long term solution but I am getting faster and faster going downhill


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

ejewels said:


> On a non-sizing note... The geometry gives specs for 2.3x29 and 3.0x650b on the 6fattie page. Am I right in thinking I could run 29" tires on this thing and wider rims (if sticking with 3.0")?


Yes you can run a 29er wheelset with the bike as long as it's a boosted wheelset.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

ejewels said:


> On a non-sizing note... The geometry gives specs for 2.3x29 and 3.0x650b on the 6fattie page. Am I right in thinking I could run 29" tires on this thing and wider rims (if sticking with 3.0")?


Murchman is correct, you can run 29er wheelsets as long as they are boost.

Just an an fyi though, you probably won't  I say that in the nicest way because I tried running 2.4's for an "XC" feel to the bike, but they provided zero benefit (IMO) over the intended plus size tires... ok, one benefit of slightly raised BB height.

My favorite combo with this bike in order of like to like-less...
1) pure 27.5+








2) 29+ front / 27.5+ rear








3) 29+ front/rear (FBN 3.0 is only a 2.7in tire on a good day and it just fits)








4) 29x2.4 = good bye days of skinny...


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Nice. Would you mind letting me know your height/inseam and what size you ride?


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

Who's running tubeless? I got my bike as an ex-demo from a shop, they had already set it up tubeless using Bontrager sealant. That crap weeps out of the beads like crazy, it runs down the tires and its slung up under my bike now... Is it the specialized tires? Is it the sealant?


If its just the sealant I'll gladly clean them out and put Orange in there..


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Size Large... I am 6ft tall on the button. I wear 32in pants and am proportional in arms and legs as far as i know. I also switched to a 50mm stem on my bike.

Buy what rides well, not what looks good on paper. I know you are doing your best at that piece


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

NothinSpecial said:


> Who's running tubeless? I got my bike as an ex-demo from a shop, they had already set it up tubeless using Bontrager sealant. That crap weeps out of the beads like crazy, it runs down the tires and its slung up under my bike now... Is it the specialized tires? Is it the sealant?
> 
> If its just the sealant I'll gladly clean them out and put Orange in there..


Depending on the release date of the Specialized tires you could have a bad pair. MANY MANY folks in here have already warrantied their stocks tires. If you google search "weeping" in front of purgatory or ground control you'll probably hit about 3 pages worth of posts in this thread. Or thread search weeping... we've literally beat a dead horse on this topic (not expecting you to know that of course, just making a statement  )

nvphatty, please insert your weeping quote... here


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

thats the issue. They both felt good. The medium was shorter and more nimble (for a plus, at least) while the large was more stable and solid. The large just scares me when the tight technical stuff might need the medium size. IDK. I think I will go to the LBS again and really have the guy size me up properly.


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## Guest (Aug 11, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Depending on the release date of the Specialized tires you could have a bad pair. MANY MANY folks in here have already warrantied their stocks tires. If you google search "weeping" in front of purgatory or ground control you'll probably hit about 3 pages worth of posts in this thread. Or thread search weeping... we've literally beat a dead horse on this topic (not expecting you to know that of course, just making a statement  )
> 
> nvphatty, please insert your weeping quote... here


weepers n peepers ain't nuttin but creepers!!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'm 5'10" with a (cycling) 32-inch inseam. I'm on the medium, which I like for technical climbing, but I'd probably go with the large if I didn't have tyrannosaur arms.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

phride said:


> I'm 5'10" with a (cycling) 32-inch inseam. I'm on the medium, which I like for technical climbing, but I'd probably go with the large if I didn't have tyrannosaur arms.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


my cycling inseam is 33.5". Long femurs. Do you still have a lot of seatpost to play with on the medium?


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

YORK25 said:


> SO should I get the 16 or 17 Stumpjumper fattie 6 and why


I think if you are getting the Comp, stick with 2016 for the suspension..... If you are looking at Carbon higher build (with a Pike) you might consider the 2017..... If you can, get both!!


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

phride said:


> I'm 5'10" with a (cycling) 32-inch inseam. I'm on the medium, which I like for technical climbing, but I'd probably go with the large if I didn't have tyrannosaur arms.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Buaahahahah....... I have a similar but opposite issue. 5'10" with a 29 inseam.... Knuckle dragger.....Works great as a linebacker but MTBing, not so much......Waist down I need a small....waist up I need a large. Went with medium but still put on riser bars and shortened the stem to get a bit more upright. Works great so far.....


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

NothinSpecial said:


> Who's running tubeless? I got my bike as an ex-demo from a shop, they had already set it up tubeless using Bontrager sealant. That crap weeps out of the beads like crazy, it runs down the tires and its slung up under my bike now... Is it the specialized tires? Is it the sealant?
> 
> If its just the sealant I'll gladly clean them out and put Orange in there..


I got mine waranteed because they were weeping from the sidewalls. I found that while running 12-15psi, if im really pushing it, it will still weep at the seems as the tire folds and buckles but not anything that makes a mess. After about 3 months it has stopped weeping. Mine never leaked from the bead though. See if they will warantee them....if not, buy a bigass bottle of Stans or Orange and ride it like you stole it!!!!


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

So should my larger inseam dictate size or is that more about seat post height?


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I am on set of tires #2. This set isn't weeping. Apparently they have been fixed. Spec gave us no trouble with warranty on the tires. 

I love this thing. I have a 2016 Expert Carbon that was built from the frame up. Pike Boost fork, Xx1, Ultimates and 38mm rovals. I like the bike so much... I have a 17 Sworks on order  

I gave my son my back up 29r. He is a pig in slop! 

Now to make room for a Fuze.....


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Depending on the release date of the Specialized tires you could have a bad pair. MANY MANY folks in here have already warrantied their stocks tires. If you google search "weeping" in front of purgatory or ground control you'll probably hit about 3 pages worth of posts in this thread. Or thread search weeping... we've literally beat a dead horse on this topic (not expecting you to know that of course, just making a statement  )
> 
> nvphatty, please insert your weeping quote... here


Sorry Masta, I should have known better but I was feeling extra lazy:yesnod:

I'm about to tear apart every bearing and grease them, we'll see if I still feel peppy enough to mess with the tires... I'll likely just let them keep making a mess for now. Its already getting too hot outside to do any of this crap but it needs to be done.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ejewels said:


> So should my larger inseam dictate size or is that more about seat post height?


I'd be inclined to use your upper body length to determine size with the lower standovers and dropper posts of today's bikes. However, if the large doesn't fit your preferred riding style,...

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Yes I decided on the large. Its a tad big, but the medium a tad small so I went up. The reach seems perfect. The owner measured me / watched me on both and said I fit the large well. I felt "inside the bike" rather than on top of for the medium. I'm pretty psyched, and am getting the tires setup tubeless as we speak!


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Looking for some thoughts... thinking of changing the stock wheels on my comp alloy to an Easton ARC 40 with DT350 hubs. Local shop has them on sale for $500 a set. Other than width is there any improvement over the stock wheel set? Thanks!
I am sure this is a noob question but that is the category I fall into here!


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

mczen said:


> Looking for some thoughts... thinking of changing the stock wheels on my comp alloy to an Easton ARC 40 with DT350 hubs. Local shop has them on sale for $500 a set. Other than width is there any improvement over the stock wheel set? Thanks!
> I am sure this is a noob question but that is the category I fall into here!


DT Swiss hubs are very nice, usually very trouble free. The star ratchet design is a very nice way to do a free hub. You can even upgrade the star ratchet for even finer engagement if you want. The new wheels may even be lighter than your stock set. So, weight, better hubs, and a bit wider rim. Sounds like a nice upgrade to me.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

I'm curious too on the arc 40s. Would the wider rim and 3.0's still work? Or would it be tight.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

ejewels said:


> I'm curious too on the arc 40s. Would the wider rim and 3.0's still work? Or would it be tight.


There should be plenty of clearance. Some of us are running the SL 38 wheels (38mm inner width carbon rims), and the tires are only ~0.1" wider than on the 29mm inner width rims.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

levity said:


> There should be plenty of clearance. Some of us are running the SL 38 wheels (38mm inner width carbon rims), and the tires are only ~0.1" wider than on the 29mm inner width rims.


are those the same that come with the fuse? Good to know you can run wider. Those arc 40s might be in my future


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

mczen said:


> Looking for some thoughts... thinking of changing the stock wheels on my comp alloy to an Easton ARC 40 with DT350 hubs. Local shop has them on sale for $500 a set. Other than width is there any improvement over the stock wheel set? Thanks!
> I am sure this is a noob question but that is the category I fall into here!


That is a really good deal and something I would probably be doing myself at that price. I'd see if you can get the ratchet upgrade on the 350s, so you have 54 points of engagement. Regardless, you'll save weight, have more sidewall support, a better spinning wheel, and a longer lasting hub.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Epic_Dude said:


> DT Swiss hubs are very nice, usually very trouble free. The star ratchet design is a very nice way to do a free hub. You can even upgrade the star ratchet for even finer engagement if you want. The new wheels may even be lighter than your stock set. So, weight, better hubs, and a bit wider rim. Sounds like a nice upgrade to me.


Er, what he said.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

ejewels said:


> I'm curious too on the arc 40s. Would the wider rim and 3.0's still work? Or would it be tight.


Hi, I'm running a set of 40mm inner width LB rims, rode with Purg front in GC rear and now currently using 3.0 NN front n RR rear. No clearance problem on both sets of tires and the side knobs are not pushed too squarish. Hope that help.


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

What is the best bottom bracket for the 6fattie?


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

revver said:


> Hi, I'm running a set of 40mm inner width LB rims, rode with Purg front in GC rear and now currently using 3.0 NN front n RR rear. No clearance problem on both sets of tires and the side knobs are not pushed too squarish. Hope that help.


thanks, that's great news. I owner if it will even do 3.25 tires?


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

ejewels, I've not try a 3.25 tires and I don't think I will go bigger than 3.0 as I think the 3.0 tires are good enough for my kind of trails.


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I tried duro 3.25 tires and they fit. Made the bike too slow.Tried it just for a front tire to see if that worked and then bought some nobby nics. Much better than Specialized or the duros.



ejewels said:


> thanks, that's great news. I owner if it will even do 3.25 tires?


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

Got a comp carbon about a month ago and I'm loving it compared to my hardtail pitch I was riding. The only thing I'm not loving (and I know this is dumb) is the black triangle (swingarm) that is black. It visually kills the flow of the frame. I look at the comp aluminum in orange and love how the back looks. I wonder if I could get the rear chain and seat stays in white or what it would take to have them powder coated.


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## Guest (Aug 14, 2016)

robgdds said:


> The only thing I'm not loving (and I know this is dumb) is the black triangle (swingarm) that is black. It visually kills the flow of the frame. I look at the comp aluminum in orange and love how the back looks. I wonder if I could get the rear chain and seat stays in white or what it would take to have them powder coated.


The rear tri is aluminum and is removed via the main bottom pivot / top link pivot therefor from my view an easy task to have PC done to your desire. Be sure to pay careful attention to the surfaces & bolt holes that connect so they do not receive PC when done.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

robgdds said:


> ... The only thing I'm not loving (and I know this is dumb) is the black triangle (swingarm) that is black. It visually kills the flow of the frame...


You're right, that's dumb. Try looking ahead at the trail rather than back at the rear triangle. Fewer crashes that way.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

nvphatty said:


> The rear tri is aluminum and is removed via the main bottom pivot / top link pivot therefor from my view an easy task to have PC done to your desire. Be sure to pay careful attention to the surfaces & bolt holes that connect so they do not receive PC when done.


If you're going to get the frame painted/powdercoated, you should check with Spec so it won't affect warranty. In the past they have been VERY specific about that sort of thing, and only supported warranty if certain approved painters/powdercoaters do the work.

I agree though, the black rears really disrupt the frames' lines.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

bad andy said:


> If you're going to get the frame painted/powdercoated, you should check with Spec so it won't affect warranty. In the past they have been VERY specific about that sort of thing, and only supported warranty if certain approved painters/powdercoaters do the work.
> 
> I agree though, the black rears really disrupt the frames' lines.


Yeah, even if they did approve it, it most likely will be an expensive paint shop. Considering the trouble and cost, I wouldn't consider it. Another option is to get a vinyl wrap kit, either something subdued, or wild: Bucksaw with Lefty and Custom Wrap- Mtbr.com


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## Guest (Aug 15, 2016)

bad andy said:


> If you're going to get the frame painted/powdercoated, you should check with Spec so it won't affect warranty. In the past they have been VERY specific about that sort of thing, and only supported warranty if certain approved painters/powdercoaters do the work.
> 
> I agree though, the black rears really disrupt the frames' lines.


that's good info for robgdds. Paint is just ok, PC is the way these days and numerous can perform the task without issues.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Random question.

My GF picked up a 2016 6fattie over the weekend and to get the saddle low enough at full extension...I had to push the post pretty far down. Not bottomed out on the collar, but I am able to feel the cable at the bottom when moving the post down. The dropper still functions fine. 

Question is...is that bad for the cable in the long term?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

You should shorten the cable. Here's a link to how to do it:

https://media.specialized.com/support/0000048567/0000048567.pdf

Follow the measuring instructions exactly, works great.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

RS VR6 said:


> Random question.
> 
> My GF picked up a 2016 6fattie over the weekend and to get the saddle low enough at full extension...I had to push the post pretty far down. Not bottomed out on the collar, but I am able to feel the cable at the bottom when moving the post down. The dropper still functions fine.
> 
> Question is...is that bad for the cable in the long term?


Congrats. Did she end up getting the medium? I think 5'6" is on the edge between Medium and small. Sounds about right that you have to shorten the post down. Did they have a small to try? Ignoring the reach, the bike seems a bit larger than most mediums I've tried. Maybe its the tall stack doing it.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

She went with the medium. She did test ride both bikes back to back. On the small she said that the bar felt too close to her knees. I replaced the stock 60mm stem with a 50mm. That seems to be the sweet spot for her when it came to reach. Saddle is just about centered on the rails.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

RS VR6 said:


> She went with the medium. She did test ride both bikes back to back. On the small she said that the bar felt too close to her knees. I replaced the stock 60mm stem with a 50mm. That seems to be the sweet spot for her when it came to reach. Saddle is just about centered on the rails.


My bar is close to the knees too, but I imagine if they aren't hitting, its all good. I may actually get 65-70 to give myself a little more reach and dial it in.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Trying to decide between a 2016 Carbon Comp and a 2017 Aluminum Comp. 

Carbon pros: Carbon, Swat door, Control version tires, Fox fork. 
Carbon cons: Color=meh, shock doesn't feel great for my weight. Wallows but doesn't bottom? 

Alum pros: Black with black chrome graphics is sweet. Sram Guide R brakes. Upgrade from the Deore? Dunno, had great luck with both. Rock Shox Manarch RT shock. Wondering if this shock will stay up in it's travel a bit yet get full travel. 
Alum cons: No Swat box in frame, Rock Shox Revelation has 32 mm legs. I'm not going to ride this extremely aggressive but will hit a few drops and jumps. Liked previous Revelations but not sure how a 32mm RL will feel on this beefy of a bike. 

So 2017 has Guide brakes ,RS suspension, Race Face crank, heavier Purg Grid tires.
The 2016 Carbon has Deore brakes, Fox suspension, Sram GX crank, Control version Purg, Ground Control tires. 

Difference is price is about $500 considering new retail vs last years closeout sale price for the carbon. 

I'd rather not pay the extra $ but stepping up to carbon would be nice. My biggest issue with the carbon bike would be getting that rear shock dialed in. And yes, I also know that although the Grid tires are heavier they should have less roll on the narrow rims. 

Thoughts?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Interesting: I would've had the pros and cons the other way around. I'm actually thankful I got my 2016 with the specs it has instead of what they have now.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

IMHO I would say everything on the 2016 Carbon Comp is better than the 2017 Alum. Comp. I am 110 lbs and would not run the Rockshox Revelation forks on the Stumpy 6fattie. I have had a carbon comp for about 1 year and put many miles on it. The Swat door is great. The 2016 Fox 34 Forks are fantastic, comparable to the Pike. Amazingly the Deore brakes have been very predictable and will easily lock up the tires (even my husband at 160 lbs likes them). The Fox shock is great and you can upgrade to the Evol can for about $80 and a couple min. of your time. I say it is a no brainer for $500 get the carbon. Get it and go ride!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> Question is...is that bad for the cable in the long term?


Not at all. If it bothers you, pull more of it out at the headtube or have the shop shorten it a bit for you.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Interesting: I would've had the pros and cons the other way around. I'm actually thankful I got my 2016 with the specs it has instead of what they have now.


Thanks. That's why I'm asking. I'm always good at setting up my bikes but in the process I overthink things. LOL Maybe I'm rationalizing because I REALLY dig the black on black.

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

JillRide45 said:


> IMHO I would say everything on the 2016 Carbon Comp is better than the 2017 Alum. Comp. I am 110 lbs and would not run the Rockshox Revelation forks on the Stumpy 6fattie. I have had a carbon comp for about 1 year and put many miles on it. The Swat door is great. The 2016 Fox 34 Forks are fantastic, comparable to the Pike. Amazingly the Deore brakes have been very predictable and will easily lock up the tires (even my husband at 160 lbs likes them). The Fox shock is great and you can upgrade to the Evol can for about $80 and a couple min. of your time. I say it is a no brainer for $500 get the carbon. Get it and go ride!


Good to hear. Thanks.

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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Not at all. If it bothers you, pull more of it out at the headtube or have the shop shorten it a bit for you.


Thanks,

I was able to pull a bit of slack from the frame.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

Flash said:


> Thanks. That's why I'm asking. I'm always good at setting up my bikes but in the process I overthink things. LOL Maybe I'm rationalizing because I REALLY dig the black on black.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


You'll be happier with the black. I will never again buy a bike that is the wrong color to save a buck or is the better deal.
If you can't live with the fork, sell it new. Find an oem Fox on ebay. 
I'd go with the 17 comp myself. That is a nice color. You certainly can't go wrong either way.

Pedaling


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I would miss the storage more the color. It's real nice going or a ride with no back pack. I have tools and my keys along with an extra tube that goes in the stash area.



rjedoaks said:


> You'll be happier with the black. I will never again buy a bike that is the wrong color to save a buck or is the better deal.
> If you can't live with the fork, sell it new. Find an oem Fox on ebay.
> I'd go with the 17 comp myself. That is a nice color. You certainly can't go wrong either way.
> 
> Pedaling


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## BluesDawg (Apr 8, 2007)

Color over specs? Seriously?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

2017 Alloy comp is a downgrade in components along with a $600 price drop.


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

Brakes are a huge upgrade, are they not?


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2016)

orange comp in a heart beat.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Not sure how much it matters, but if you look at the geometry of the '16 and '17... the '17 has slightly longer reach and a few different numbers.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

ejewels said:


> Not sure how much it matters, but if you look at the geometry of the '16 and '17... the '17 has slightly longer reach and a few different numbers.


That's good to know. I'll check that again. Thanks.

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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Windigo said:


> Brakes are a huge upgrade, are they not?


I don't know. Is SRAM guide better than Shimano Deore?

*2016 Alloy Comp*

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/b...umper-fsr/stumpjumper-fsr-comp-6fattie/107081

*2017 Alloy Comp*

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/stumpjumper-fsr-comp-650b/115308


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

prj71 said:


> I don't know. Is SRAM guide better than Shimano Deore?
> 
> *2016 Alloy Comp*
> 
> ...


hard to go wrong with shimano brakes. the deore is very similar to xt and slx with less adjustability and non icetech pads

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## Guest (Aug 18, 2016)

prj71 said:


> I don't know. Is SRAM guide better than Shimano Deore?


based upon the documented issues as of late i'd say no, however in the event the GUIDES have been upgraded/improved then yes.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

nvphatty said:


> based upon the documented issues as of late i'd say no, however in the event the GUIDES have been upgraded/improved then yes.


The guides are kickass brakes. But it comes down to preferences. Guides have more modulation while shimanos are known to be more grabby.


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

Well got a deal on the 16 stumpjumper comp going with it instead of the 17


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

What's a deal? How much are buyers getting off these bikes?
In my province only 2 large were available and are now both sold, the distributor did not see a reason to bring in any more then that for some reason.


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

2800 I think it was a good deal


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

I picked up my black 17 comp last night. Was in Monday to get it and noticed the reach adjust didn't work on the rear brake so I told the shop to keep it. They called Sram and Sram is going to upgrade my brakes as part of the repair/inconvenience. I'm thinking of selling the dropper post too. I have never needed one on the trails I ride.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Windigo said:


> Brakes are a huge upgrade, are they not?


I would call them an upgrade, but not a big one and brakes are cheap anyways, so I wouldn't weigh that much in my consideration. That Revelation fork, however, is a major downgrade.

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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

bad andy said:


> The guides are kickass brakes. But it comes down to preferences. Guides have more modulation while shimanos are known to be more grabby.


The deore brakes are nothing like the XT brakes. The Deore brakes have great modulation and have never made any noise like the XT brakes. I have the SRAM Guide RS on one bike and the Deore on the Stumpy and would easily trade the Deore for the Guide brakes, weird but true.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

ejewels said:


> Not sure how much it matters, but if you look at the geometry of the '16 and '17... the '17 has slightly longer reach and a few different numbers.


I think the only difference in reach is due to the change in fork. Also note that the 17' aluminum with the revelation fork has a steeper HA, must be a lower AC measurement on the revelation compared to other forks.


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2016)

bad andy said:


> The guides are kickass brakes. But it comes down to preferences. Guides have more modulation while shimanos are known to be more grabby.


agreed they are but the well documented issues with sticky MC piston is a major red flag for anyone considering them.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I think I've narrowed it down to the 16 Carbon Comp. I can live with the color. I have Deore and XT brakes on my other bikes. Love them. Thanks Jill. If I can't tune the shock properly then I'll get the new can. I did the same trick on my 2012 Camber and it was great. I really want the Swat box in the frame. My thinking is this will eliminate the need for a seat bag of which I thought shouldn't belong on a dropper post. That was something I hadn't considered but it just entered my mind as I was considering storage. But as I made this choice I still do believe that even though some parts are downgraded the 2017 comp is a hell of a deal. That is a lot of bike still with a lot of cool parts on it for that price. I will be interested to hear reviews from owners of the 2017 Comp on fork performance and shock performance. 

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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

JillRide45 said:


> I think the only difference in reach is due to the change in fork. Also note that the 17' aluminum with the revelation fork has a steeper HA, must be a lower AC measurement on the revelation compared to other forks.


Good point, I really don't know. I guess reach and stack go hand in hand with how tall the fork lifts the front up. I will say that the Medium I had felt a tad larger than the medium s-works from '16. BUT thats just going by feel and probably components.

On another note, I paid 2600 (before tax) on my '17. I think the LBS guy messed up when i asked him how low he could go because today when i was in there he made a comment "yeah I sold you that bike at too low a price" when I was asking how much the carbon '16s were. I like upgrading my bike slowly so even if paying 500-700 bucks more would have gotten me a nicer fork/shock/carbon, i would rather pick the color i want and slowly upgrade components. Plus 2600 bucks sounds a lot better than 34-3500 right now and for my level of riding.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

JillRide45 said:


> The deore brakes are nothing like the XT brakes. The Deore brakes have great modulation and have never made any noise like the XT brakes. I have the SRAM Guide RS on one bike and the Deore on the Stumpy and would easily trade the Deore for the Guide brakes, weird but true.


^^ I agree with this exactly ^^

My 2014 Fatboy came with XT brakes (not newest iteration, these were the ones with the larger clamps on the levers) and they were way less than desirable. Very grabby, poor modulation and noisy. Turned me off on Shimano brakes. My previous bike had Guide RSC's before I sold it and they were so nice that I bought some for the Fatboy. The modulation, lever return feel, adjustments at the lever, and dropper lever integration/simplicity is what the Guides are all about.

With that said, coming back to the Deores on the 6fattie has been a much better experience that the XT's and I can live with them. Given though that my Guides with a 180mm front rotor on a 26x4.8 stop the same as the Deores on a 27.5x3.0 with a massive 203mm front rotor says something about the Guides.

I'd rather stick with Deores or "upgrade" to Guides... haven't tried the Levels out though which should technically be a Deore equivalent right?


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> The deore brakes are nothing like the XT brakes. The Deore brakes have great modulation and have never made any noise like the XT brakes. I have the SRAM Guide RS on one bike and the Deore on the Stumpy and would easily trade the Deore for the Guide brakes, weird but true.


Which generation xt?

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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Unit91MS said:


> Which generation xt?


Any generation

Ha, sorry Shimano brake peeps...


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Any generation
> 
> Ha, sorry Shimano brake peeps...


Have you ridden the m8000? I strayed away for a bit with my new bike after having 785b's on my old bike. Just installed m8000. Loved the modulation of the 4 piston brakes I had, could never compete with the power or feeling of the XT.

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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I've got XT M785 and ZEE on other bikes...and the Deore feels pretty good. Honestly...I can't tell much if any difference between the Deore and XT.


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> Any generation
> 
> Ha, sorry Shimano brake peeps...


imma tell my daddy


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

So, 2016 Carbon Comp large. What can I expect for weight just going tubeless and swapping a carbon bar? 

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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Flash said:


> So, 2016 Carbon Comp large. What can I expect for weight just going tubeless and swapping a carbon bar?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I would guess around 31lb stock after tubeless and carbon bar with no pedals.

Mine is at 29lb and change with carbon hoops, carbon bar, and carbon crank. (no SWAT tool/tube bags)


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## shaynec (Jul 22, 2016)

I just weighed mine today,med, carbon wheels and kings are only upgrade , 31 lb.


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

What size rotors are on a medium 16 fattie comp


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## shaynec (Jul 22, 2016)

180 front 160 back


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

I was wondering if its possible to put a larger dropper in the 6fattie? Since I'm on the higher end of the medium and have long legs, I may need a little more seatpost. I have it at 9 right now and it's about right, but out of curiosity... Could one run a larger dropper?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

ejewels said:


> I was wondering if its possible to put a larger dropper in the 6fattie? Since I'm on the higher end of the medium and have long legs, I may need a little more seatpost. I have it at 9 right now and it's about right, but out of curiosity... Could one run a larger dropper?


I thought you bought the large size already? (#1655) Did you return it for a medium? I am not sure who makes the longest dropper on the market.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Double post. Friday night. Drinks


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

This thread has got all brakes, models and forks. Not enough fun stuff.
My last ride was interrupted half a dozen times by kangaroos. They hopped away before photos. I yelled Strava, but they looked at me unimpressed.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

We probably need a new thread for fun stuff, though it depends on what you define as fun as talking technical detail is fun in my book


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

^^^
Fair enough. I think there is room for both in here. I will fall back on Friday night drinks and camera shy kangaroos


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Twimby said:


> This thread has got all brakes, models and forks. Not enough fun stuff.
> My last ride was interrupted half a dozen times by kangaroos. They hopped away before photos. I yelled Strava, but they looked at me unimpressed.


I agree, more fun stuff. Here's a shaky video to go along with your Friday night buzz 






same trail, rear view...


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

darkhorse13 said:


> I thought you bought the large size already? (#1655) Did you return it for a medium? I am not sure who makes the longest dropper on the market.


Yes, I updated this thread and said I exchanged for the medium earlier on. I prefer a more nimble ride and the large just felt too big. My dilemna is that seat-tube length I should be on a large, but all other dimensions including height I should be on a medium. So, the medium post just barely works (i'm at 1cm off from min insertion), I was just wondering if I wanted to... could I get a longer dropper post.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree, more fun stuff. Here's a shaky video to go along with your Friday night buzz


Nice to see what riding my bike will look like! Can't wait till it arrives! What trail is that?

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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Flash said:


> Nice to see what riding my bike will look like! Can't wait till it arrives! What trail is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Castlewood State Park in St. Louis, MO. Grotpeter is the trail name if you're looking at MTB Project app.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree, more fun stuff. Here's a shaky video to go along with your Friday night buzz
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Belting along. Very nice.


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> I agree, more fun stuff. Here's a shaky video to go along with your Friday night buzz
> 
> https://youtu.be/MUUmV1mszs8[/url[/...christmas carolers would be singing along..;)


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> had me thinkin christmas carolers would be singing along..


My timber!bell puts the Salvation Army ringers to shame


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Took my 17 comp out for a ride last night. I like the Rock Shok suspension for my riding style over the Fox that was on the Trek I rode last week and the brakes are better than the XT I put on my Foes. The bike just want's to go and go....I like it.


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## rjedoaks (Aug 10, 2009)

No pics! 
Was at a shop last night. No 17's yet but the 16 comp was 2800. Tough choices


Pedaling


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

Thinking of Pre-ordering a 2017 Comp Carbon. 

Are the forks, shock, tires, crank or anything else an upgrade in anyway over the 2016?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Windigo said:


> Thinking of Pre-ordering a 2017 Comp Carbon.
> 
> Are the forks, shock, tires, crank or anything else an upgrade in anyway over the 2016?


Some would say all those items, and perhaps the brakes too.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Windigo said:


> Thinking of Pre-ordering a 2017 Comp Carbon.
> 
> Are the forks, shock, tires, crank or anything else an upgrade in anyway over the 2016?


The sale price on the 2016 would leave you enough to buy carbon wheels.

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## sirsam84 (Sep 20, 2006)

9point8...175 mm drop and 500mm long...got one for my process....really smooth and nice!


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Thank you to everyone offering advise on the Easton ARC40/DT Swiss wheels.

Pulled the trigger and am happy about it. The wider rim does support the tire better and did feel like it had better traction and less squirm. This bike is rapidly becoming the favorite to ride. The Santa Cruz Solo and Stache 9 29+ are gathering dust.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

mczen said:


> Thank you to everyone offering advise on the Easton ARC40/DT Swiss wheels.
> 
> Pulled the trigger and am happy about it. The wider rim does support the tire better and did feel like it had better traction and less squirm. This bike is rapidly becoming the favorite to ride. The Santa Cruz Solo and Stache 9 29+ are gathering dust.


Do you mind telling what combo you got for a wheelset? And where? I'm interested in getting some, but was quoted 750-800 for a wheelset.


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

bad andy said:


> Some would say all those items, and perhaps the brakes too.


I was bummed that I could not find a 2016 but maybe its for the best.

Ya the brakes for sure, 2 piston vs 4 piston.
180/160 vs 200/180 
The fork 34mm stanchions vs 35mm stanchions
Float vs Monarch 
Sram vs Race Face
White vs Green


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## YORK25 (Mar 13, 2013)

So going tomorrow morning and ordering my 2016 Stumpy Comp can't wait got it cheaper than the 2017.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

2old said:


> . I'm thinking of selling the dropper post too. I have never needed one on the trails I ride.


Staaaahhhpppp....!! Once you learn to use your dropper you will refuse to ride a bike without one!!!


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Staaaahhhpppp....!! Once you learn to use your dropper you will refuse to ride a bike without one!!!


I see both sides here. I have a sweet Ritchey WCS carbon post that would save a ton of weight high up. I'm still going to keep the dropper on for a few months to see if I'll use it. If not it comes off. I did a few rides with the test bike but I know it takes more time than that. I sure wouldn't pull offof until you give it a good try.

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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I can see if you're racing a light bike and want to get rid of some weight to be more competitive. On a ~30lb trail bike...I don't think I'll sacrifice the functionality of the dropper to lose some negligible weight.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

YORK25 said:


> So going tomorrow morning and ordering my 2016 Stumpy Comp can't wait got it cheaper than the 2017.


Keep in mind I paid 2600 for my '17. Not sure how flexible your LBS is.


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## barev (Feb 21, 2009)

Can anyone comment on both the weight savings and quality of the wheelset included with the Comp model vs Expert model?

Comp: 
Hubs: Specialized, Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings
Rims: Roval Traverse 650b, alloy, disc, 29mm wide

*The Comp has Hi-Lo hubs which in the past had critical reviews. 

Expert:
Hub: Roval Traverse
Rim: Roval Traverse 650b

Friend is offering me the Roval (expert) wheels for $200, he's upgrading to Carbon and I can't afford that upgrade.

Thanks!


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Count me in on the tires sweating sealant. After only having my SJCC6F only about 4 wks, I noticed some beads of clear liquid on the tire side walls. It's strange because the droplets are not the entire mixture of the sealant, only one component of the sealant.

Anyway, called my LBS and they are checking with Specialized about getting replacement tires.


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

ejewels - I went with these from Colorado Cyclist:

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/dt-swiss-350-w-easton-arc-40-wheelset-110-148mm

They also have these, not as nice:

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/raceface-ar-40-rims-novatec-hubs-boost
or
https://www.coloradocyclist.com/sram-easton-ar-40-110-148-xd-27-5-whlst

The sets are take off from builds and they resell them. The one thing you have to watch out for is some of the DTSwiss wheels have the Torque Caps and will not fit a fork without the Torque dropouts.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Anyone know the weight of the stock Roval Traverse wheels with the HiLo hubs?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

RS VR6 said:


> Anyone know the weight of the stock Roval Traverse wheels with the HiLo hubs?


Maybe  Some more great info here: http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...8mm-internal-width-boost-wheelset-986648.html


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

Does the 2017 with Yari have the new Sram toque caps? I ask because the fork can be used with torque caps or regular caps.


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## barev (Feb 21, 2009)

barev said:


> Can anyone comment on both the weight savings and quality of the wheelset included with the Comp model vs Expert model?
> 
> Comp:
> Hubs: Specialized, Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings
> ...


Answered my own question.

Wheelset with Hi-Lo hubs are 1930g total:

Front - 870g w/ rim strip and valve stem
Rear - 1060g w/ rim strip and valve stem

Wheelset with Roval hubs are 1690g.

That's about half pound difference.

So the question is if it's worth it (with consideration to weight and quality) knowing I can't afford the carbon wheelset.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

barev said:


> Answered my own question.
> 
> Wheelset with Hi-Lo hubs are 1930g total:
> 
> ...


That's a fine wheelset at a ridiculously good price. You'll find a buyer if it's somehow not right for you.

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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

thanks. Whats the difference between AR40 and ARC40s?


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

The Easton website says the AR is a sleeved rim, I did not see any weights for the AR rim. Easton just says it is a "cost conscious sleeved version of the ARC" no specs noted for the AR rim on the Easton website that I found, but did not look to hard.

Windigo, your hub will be the component with the Torque caps, or the ability to convert to a torque cap set up.


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

I've been a busy bee lately with the crap weather we've been having.

I'd venture to say it was my sidewalls, after I took them apart, cleaned them up nice, put new orange sealant in them and out em back together.. the Bontrager crap started seeping out again. Took it up to the LBS, told them specialized would warranty the tires and they swapped it all out without even charging me for new sealant 



Since the bike was a Demo it was apparently not maintained. It started squeaking like crazy so I pulled every bearing apart minus the BB and axles. I had some rust come out of the lower pivot bearings when I sprayed degreaser in them and the upper headset bearing was toast. The replacement isn't any fancy Chris King but I've read its the next best thing.




And that led into another small snowball. I don't really care for the chain guide, but the bash guard had good reviews and seemed to have the best price out there.



ANDDDD. I'm on the fence with this cap, "Fuggit Fab" was something a friend and I called our little rock crawler backyard fab operation.. So I had it etched instead of the alternative. Too bad it looks way too similar to another not so great word in this font, it may need to go.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Are they replacing the tires with Grid or an improved Control? 

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

This came home with me today. Stock on the scale was 31.6 for large. Went tubeless with extra Stans goo. Brought it down to 31.1. Still need to swap out the carbon bar and my WTB saddle. Can't believe how this bike rides. It will see its first dirt at the Merrell Trail Thursday. 


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2016)

most excellent :thumbsup:


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

Anyone know what US and Canadian MSRP is on the 2017 Comp Carbon?


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Murchman said:


> UPS dropped off the EVOL sleeve today, install was about 15 minutes and very easy to do.


Just got my EVOL can today, installing tonight! Question, did you have to remove the ManFu from the rear suspension linkage or could you have just removed the ManFu from the rear shock itself? Not finding much info on torque spec, installation, etc.

BTW
6'2" 195lb 6fat Expert XL&#8230; ordered all 3 volume spacers, let you all know how it rides soon!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

TEvans73 said:


> Just got my EVOL can today, installing tonight! Question, did you have to remove the ManFu from the rear suspension linkage or could you have just removed the ManFu from the rear shock itself? Not finding much info on torque spec, installation, etc.
> 
> BTW
> 6'2" 195lb 6fat Expert XL&#8230; ordered all 3 volume spacers, let you all know how it rides soon!


Hi, just installed my Vorsprung can 2 days ago, noticed my LBS took out the manfu link then the shock itself for the installation. Cant tell if the shock can come out without the manfu removal, if it helps.

I'm 142lbs 6fattie Expert, Vorsprung with no spacers. Looks like the Vorsprung have a bit more air volume as compared to the EVOL can at my LBS by comparing the cans size. Will give a review after riding.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

TEvans73 said:


> Just got my EVOL can today, installing tonight! Question, did you have to remove the ManFu from the rear suspension linkage or could you have just removed the ManFu from the rear shock itself? Not finding much info on torque spec, installation, etc.
> 
> BTW
> 6'2" 195lb 6fat Expert XL&#8230; ordered all 3 volume spacers, let you all know how it rides soon!


Torque settings for the shock mounting bolts are given in the owner's manual. Looks like I'll need a higher-range torque wrench. I just ordered my EVOL can today. Without volume spacers, so we'll see how that goes. It's back-ordered 3 weeks, but that's better than I was expecting.


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## ownerofdog (Aug 12, 2013)

Has anyone converted their 6fattie a 29er? If so, how does it ride? I'm assuming it should be exactly the same as the Stumpy 29 except for the wider stays. Reason I ask is that I've been offered a 2016 6fattie expert at a really good price, and the shop are willing to swap out the wheelset. I'd prefer a 29er over a fattie.
Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere. Done a search through forum but can't seem to find much.
Cheers


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## shiopz (Jul 1, 2014)

ownerofdog said:


> Has anyone converted their 6fattie a 29er? If so, how does it ride? I'm assuming it should be exactly the same as the Stumpy 29 except for the wider stays. Reason I ask is that I've been offered a 2016 6fattie expert at a really good price, and the shop are willing to swap out the wheelset. I'd prefer a 29er over a fattie.
> Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere. Done a search through forum but can't seem to find much.
> Cheers


This video might be able to help you out:


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

ownerofdog said:


> Has anyone converted their 6fattie a 29er? If so, how does it ride? I'm assuming it should be exactly the same as the Stumpy 29 except for the wider stays. Reason I ask is that I've been offered a 2016 6fattie expert at a really good price, and the shop are willing to swap out the wheelset. I'd prefer a 29er over a fattie.
> Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere. Done a search through forum but can't seem to find much.
> Cheers


Seemed to recall a recent thread where a guy swapped out 29'rs for the 6Fs in various configurations and came away with the conclusion that the 6F really was the better. I guess the big question would be if you've ridden one yet?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

see posts #744 #899 by Darkhorse13 and #894 by revver


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## ownerofdog (Aug 12, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. Great source of info. No idea levity how you managed to locate the exact post #'s.
I think I'll take up the offer and have the 29er wheelset fitted. 

Cheers


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Got the first ride in last night. Fork feels great. Ran the tires at 18/20 tubeless, stock wheels and tires. I weigh 210 trail ready. It felt pretty good. I'll go down a lb at a time until I feel it roll then go back up. The dropper is cool. The thing I need to sort out is the shock. it does seem to wallow the middle of the stroke but not even close to bottoming. I tend to think if it was aired down to at least bottom once then it would be way too low. Will the EVOL can fix this? I want it to ride higher in the travel yet still get more travel on bigger hits. Overall I really dig the bike. I had a blast on it. So far I don't think I'll be beating many of my Epic times but I sure smile more while riding it.


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## Liquid-25 (Aug 26, 2016)

so how much of a downgrade is the '16 to '17 comp suspension? the $600 drop in msrp sure makes it more appealing.


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## jamz (Jul 4, 2006)

Hey guys - I've been lurking on this thread while contemplating getting a 6fattie for myself, and I finally pulled the trigger today. Proud owner of a new SJ Expert 6fattie. Was actually looking for an Aluminum comp or carbon comp with a big sale (40% off) today at a LBS, but they were sold out of mediums. I happen to check inventory at another shop, and they had one last 2016 6fattie (of any level) left, which was a medium expert. Did not want to spend nearly this much, but 40% off was just too good to pass up.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Still really enjoying my 6Fattie! As as mentioned before, I swapped out the stem (ENVE MTN 85mm) and grips (ODI Rogie Lock-on) and also added a Spurcycle bell. I really wasn't all that psyched about the dropper post and swapped it out this morning for a rigid post. I can see the benefits of having a dropper but it just isn't my cup of tea. I'll hang onto it for a bit just in case I change my mind, but it will most likely be on the docket with my next MTB purge. I also slapped on a Selle Italia Flite Kit Carbonio Flow saddle for a bit more comfort. I used a Fabric Scoop (Shallow/Race) for a bit and it was okay but not as comfy as the Flite.










Oh, and I added a fun new head badge!


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## LarryinVienna (Jul 19, 2016)

So this might be a dumb question, but how do I add air to my tires? Do I need a special tool? 

Picked up my carbon comp Sun evening and had the shop set it up tubeless. Front feels too squishy so I was going to check the pressure and my gauge doesn't fit on the tiny stem. Is this a tubeless thing or a new stem thing (gauge fits every other bike in my garage - granted, none of them are as nice as the new 6F)? 

Thanks.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

LarryinVienna said:


> So this might be a dumb question, but how do I add air to my tires? Do I need a special tool?
> 
> Picked up my carbon comp Sun evening and had the shop set it up tubeless. Front feels too squishy so I was going to check the pressure and my gauge doesn't fit on the tiny stem. Is this a tubeless thing or a new stem thing (gauge fits every other bike in my garage - granted, none of them are as nice as the new 6F)?
> 
> Thanks.


You need to use a gauge and pump for Presta valves, thats what the smaller ones are called. There are also screw on adapters to go from Presta to standard size so you can use a normal gauge and air chuck tool.

Stans No Tubes Presta-Schrader Valve Adapter | Chain Reaction Cycles


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

You'll have presta valves instead of the schrader valves were all use to seeing on car tires and older bike tires. When you take off the valve cap, you'll notice the threads of a tiny screw sticking out the end with a brass of aluminum knurled nut at the end. UNSCREW that small knurled nut until it reached the end of the threads. You'll notice that when you press on it after unscrewing it, it'll let air out.

You have to use a pump that works with Presta valves, I don't believe that older Schroeder valve type pumps clamp onto the skinnier and longer type Presta Valves.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Anyone had issues with their dropper post? I was on a ride last night and hit a little downhill section and went for the lever to drop the seat and nothing, just a ton of free play in the lever. I got back home and dug deeper and found the cable end that attaches to the actuator part of the dropper had gone missing, I just had a bare cable end. The bike is only about two months old so I'm gonna see if they can warranty it for me somehow but I was curious if anyone else had this happen?


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## WMBigs (Jul 11, 2009)

crfnick56 said:


> Anyone had issues with their dropper post? I was on a ride last night and hit a little downhill section and went for the lever to drop the seat and nothing, just a ton of free play in the lever. I got back home and dug deeper and found the cable end that attaches to the actuator part of the dropper had gone missing, I just had a bare cable end. The bike is only about two months old so I'm gonna see if they can warranty it for me somehow but I was curious if anyone else had this happen?


When I picked up my new Fuse, the cable broke at the seat post. They replaced it. Lasted about 2 months and broke again. I bought a new cable and was a little po'd because I saw how the cable was not installed correctly in 2 different ways. Put the new one on correctly and it has been fine since. I did oil the cable very lightly.


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## LarryinVienna (Jul 19, 2016)

crfnick56 said:


> You need to use a gauge and pump for Presta valves, thats what the smaller ones are called. There are also screw on adapters to go from Presta to standard size so you can use a normal gauge and air chuck tool.
> 
> Thanks! I keep having to buy stuff (shock pump, pedals, Stans, now Presta-stuff), and I haven't even started down the list of stuff that I "NEED" based on reading this thread (EVOL sleeve, stem, bars, etc.) ... ;-)


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

LarryinVienna said:


> crfnick56 said:
> 
> 
> > You need to use a gauge and pump for Presta valves, thats what the smaller ones are called. There are also screw on adapters to go from Presta to standard size so you can use a normal gauge and air chuck tool.
> ...


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

LarryinVienna said:


> crfnick56 said:
> 
> 
> > You need to use a gauge and pump for Presta valves, thats what the smaller ones are called. There are also screw on adapters to go from Presta to standard size so you can use a normal gauge and air chuck tool.
> ...


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

WMBigs said:


> When I picked up my new Fuse, the cable broke at the seat post. They replaced it. Lasted about 2 months and broke again. I bought a new cable and was a little po'd because I saw how the cable was not installed correctly in 2 different ways. Put the new one on correctly and it has been fine since. I did oil the cable very lightly.


I had issues with my seatpost on the first few rides also. The cable housing was not seated properly, so the shop positioned it properly and gave it a little bit of slack, and it has worked fine ever since.

I've had the bike about 5 months now, and it's starting to noticeably slow down when coming up. Can I just slather a light grease on the post without taking anything apart? Also, what grease works best for this type of application and can be used with the Fox 34 fork as well? SRAM Butter, SRAM Military Grease, or Slick Honey?


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

WMBigs said:


> When I picked up my new Fuse, the cable broke at the seat post. They replaced it. Lasted about 2 months and broke again. I bought a new cable and was a little po'd because I saw how the cable was not installed correctly in 2 different ways. Put the new one on correctly and it has been fine since. I did oil the cable very lightly.


From looking at the manual online it looks like the barrel on the post end is clamped in place with two small set screws. I don't think the cable actually broke, I think the barrel just came off the end. Here is the weird part though, I can't find it!! I don't think there is anywhere big enough for it to get out of the frame but I had the bike upside-down last night shaking it around and heard no rattle and nothing came out, so where did it go? LOL


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Drevil said:


> I had issues with my seatpost on the first few rides also. The cable housing was not seated properly, so the shop positioned it properly and gave it a little bit of slack, and it has worked fine ever since.
> 
> I've had the bike about 5 months now, and it's starting to noticeably slow down when coming up. Can I just slather a light grease on the post without taking anything apart? Also, what grease works best for this type of application and can be used with the Fox 34 fork as well? SRAM Butter, SRAM Military Grease, or Slick Honey?


If you have the Specialized Command Post dropper, there is a small cap over a schrader valve just under the front of the seat. You can use a regular pump to pump it up, this is considered normal maint. DO NOT go over 20 psi, you WILL damage the seals which is not covered under warranty. Other than cleaning the dropper post with a cloth or soft brush, I've never had to put any lubricant on the dropper and neither would you want to. Its just not necessary, it sounds like yours is just low on air.


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## LarryinVienna (Jul 19, 2016)

Dr. Evil - the word "recent" describes nothing in my garage (other than the SJCC6F and maybe the kids' bikes). Great video - and the one that auto-started right after showing me how to inflate a tire with Presta valve. Thanks to you and crfnick (assume that rhymes with "nerf-nick"), I'll be hitting my LBS right when it opens this morning to get this sorted before my lunch ride!

crfnick - I actually meant to add rims to that list!


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I had issues with my seatpost on the first few rides also. The cable housing was not seated properly, so the shop positioned it properly and gave it a little bit of slack, and it has worked fine ever since.
> 
> I've had the bike about 5 months now, and it's starting to noticeably slow down when coming up. Can I just slather a light grease on the post without taking anything apart? Also, what grease works best for this type of application and can be used with the Fox 34 fork as well? SRAM Butter, SRAM Military Grease, or Slick Honey?


The Command Posts DO need service to stay smooth. Grab some Slick Honey and a Strap Wrench and watch this video. It will bring new life to your post.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Weird


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Stumpy vs stump


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Absolutely you need some Slick Honey. Just a tad. Run about 20-25 PSI.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I couldn't take the crap FSA headset anymore and replaced it with a Canecreek 40 Part# BAA783K 40-Series | Tapered IS42|IS52/40 Short Top Cover . Note that I also needed 4mm of headset shims to go under the top cap in order for it to work. These are not sold with the headset so make sure you buy some as each frame maybe different https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=21855

I had a great ride yesterday with the new headset that didn't make noise or come loose once on the ride and the best part is the bearings are actually sealed unlike the FSA stock ones.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Murchman said:


> I couldn't take the crap FSA headset anymore and replaced it with a Canecreek 40 Part# BAA783K 40-Series | Tapered IS42|IS52/40 Short Top Cover . Note that I also needed 4mm of headset shims to go under the top cap in order for it to work. These are not sold with the headset so make sure you buy some as each frame maybe different https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=21855
> 
> I had a great ride yesterday with the new headset that didn't make noise or come loose once on the ride and the best part is the bearings are actually sealed unlike the FSA stock ones.


I have a fuse, not a stumpy. But my headset seemed to work fine without any shims?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It all depends on how deep they bore the IS headset for the bearings to sit in. I had to call up Canecreek and ask them want to do since the bearings sat much lower than the stock bearing and the top cap was hitting the frame and not the compression ring. That is when they told me I need to use spacers to make the difference since there is no set standards on how deep it's bored.


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## Unit91MS (Sep 10, 2015)

Murchman said:


> It all depends on how deep they bore the IS headset for the bearings to sit in. I had to call up Canecreek and ask them want to do since the bearings sat much lower than the stock bearing and the top cap was hitting the frame and not the compression ring. That is when they told me I need to use spacers to make the difference since there is no set standards on how deep it's bored.


Ah. Interesting. My bearing sat a bit proud and the cap and compression ring all seemed to go together well. I guess I'll double check everything!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

M3Roc said:


> If you have the Specialized Command Post dropper, there is a small cap over a schrader valve just under the front of the seat. You can use a regular pump to pump it up, this is considered normal maint. DO NOT go over 20 psi, you WILL damage the seals which is not covered under warranty. Other than cleaning the dropper post with a cloth or soft brush, I've never had to put any lubricant on the dropper and neither would you want to. Its just not necessary, it sounds like yours is just low on air.


Pro-tip: Drop the seat first. (It should read about 50psi or so dropped). Pump it up about 5psi at a time until it raises normal. I normally hover at around 60-65psi (dropped) for it to raise normally, which equates to about 17psi raised.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So as I await delivery of a new '17 6fattie... I'm contemplating my pump situation. I want to try to ditch the pack, and use the SWAT box. Currently I carry a pump AND digital gauge. I saw Lezyne has a cool hand pump with digital gauge built-in: Lezyne - Engineered Design - Products - Hand Pumps - High Volume - Digital Alloy Drive

Anybody have experience with this gauge? Is it suitable for plus, and fatbike, typical tire pressures? (below 20psi)

Thanks


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm ready to order a Wolf Tooth oval chainring for my 16 Carbon Comp. I see 3 choices on most sites. GXP, short spindle and Race Face. Well I know I don't have a Race Face or GXP so do I have a short spindle? (not be personally) I'm ready to get back to an oval. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

bad andy said:


> So as I await delivery of a new '17 6fattie... I'm contemplating my pump situation. I want to try to ditch the pack, and use the SWAT box. Currently I carry a pump AND digital gauge. I saw Lezyne has a cool hand pump with digital gauge built-in: Lezyne - Engineered Design - Products - Hand Pumps - High Volume - Digital Alloy Drive
> 
> Anybody have experience with this gauge? Is it suitable for plus, and fatbike, typical tire pressures? (below 20psi)
> 
> Thanks


That pump shows to be Presta and Schroeder compatible put it wont help you with your fork or rear shock, those require a high pressure pump that can go up to 300psi. The pump you linked maxes out at 90psi.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

M3Roc said:


> That pump shows to be Presta and Schroeder compatible put it wont help you with your fork or rear shock, those require a high pressure pump that can go up to 300psi. The pump you linked maxes out at 90psi.


Speaking of which, what pressures are people using in the Fox Float? I'm 210 or so trail ready. I've settled around 260 or 270 but getting just over half travel. As discussed earlier, I plan on making some shock changes, just too busy for a while.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Flash said:


> Speaking of which, what pressures are people using in the Fox Float? I'm 210 or so trail ready. I've settled around 260 or 270 but getting just over half travel. As discussed earlier, I plan on making some shock changes, just too busy for a while.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I'm 6'4" and 225lbs. I keep my pressure a little lower but rebound a little slower for the rear.

Regarding the pump, you should be able to use a high pressure pump with a Schroeder adapter as long as the gauge can read down to like 15 psi. I currently run around 18psi in the front and 16-17 in the rear with tubes. Haven't gone tubeless yet. I'm building a new set of wheels which will be tubeless and lower pressure.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

M3Roc said:


> That pump shows to be Presta and Schroeder compatible put it wont help you with your fork or rear shock, those require a high pressure pump that can go up to 300psi. The pump you linked maxes out at 90psi.


Perhaps I should have clarified.... this is in reference to tire pumps only (not shock/fork pumps) I currently rely on a separate digital gauge (SKS airchecker) to check pressures and am simply looking to carry less with me. Hoping this Lezyne can read low psi's well enough so I don't feel the need to carry separate pump and gauge.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Flash said:


> Speaking of which, what pressures are people using in the Fox Float? I'm 210 or so trail ready. I've settled around 260 or 270 but getting just over half travel. As discussed earlier, I plan on making some shock changes, just too busy for a while.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


6'2 220lbs with the EVOL sleeve I am running 300+ 7 pumps in the rear shock since no shock pump goes above 300PSI. Fox says the EVOL sleeve is good to up to 350psi. Front I am running 92psi.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

bad andy said:


> Perhaps I should have clarified.... this is in reference to tire pumps only (not shock/fork pumps) I currently rely on a separate digital gauge (SKS airchecker) to check pressures and am simply looking to carry less with me. Hoping this Lezyne can read low psi's well enough so I don't feel the need to carry separate pump and gauge.


I missed that part. I would actually be interested in a light weight pump I can throw in my backpack as well. I was stupid enough not to opt for the carbon frame with the squirrel (pronounced squwi-well) hole so I have to put things like that in my backpack which hasn't been too much an issue yet.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The general rule of thumb for gauges is that they are accurate in middle 60% of their range (e.g., 20-80, if it's a 0-100 scale) with progressively less accurate readings beyond that, readings given to the tenth of a psi notwithstanding. A pump that reads 0-90 would likely then be at the limit of accuracy, but it could still be around +/- 0.5 psi, if it really is at +/- 0.1 psi in the middle of the range. If that's the case, it's better than you are likely to do by feel, but the only way that you'll be able to tell for sure is to compare it to a gauge that is in the right range (or for someone else to have done so). I use a gauge at home and, if I need to add air on the trail, I do it by feel. That's good enough for me. YMMV.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

bad andy said:


> So as I await delivery of a new '17 6fattie... I'm contemplating my pump situation. I want to try to ditch the pack, and use the SWAT box. Currently I carry a pump AND digital gauge. I saw Lezyne has a cool hand pump with digital gauge built-in: Lezyne - Engineered Design - Products - Hand Pumps - High Volume - Digital Alloy Drive
> 
> Anybody have experience with this gauge? Is it suitable for plus, and fatbike, typical tire pressures? (below 20psi)
> 
> Thanks


I have the Leyzyne Micro Floor Drive and was hoping it would fit in the SWAT compartment but it's too big. I may look into that digital Leyzene pump though.

Out on the trail I am less concerned with the exact PSI I have in my tires. I check my pressures with a digital gauge before I get on the trail, so if I am getting out the hand pump during I ride, it means I've got a slow leak. At that point, I just want enough air in the tires to get me back to the trail head.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Inside the carbon frame you can carry a small pump such as the Blackburn Airstick. The Airstick is tiny but amazingly it works to get a low tire back up. If I was going on a long expedition where I need to carry a pack I would take a more substantial pump, but for day rides the Airstick has worked great. As for the guage I carry the Meiser Accu-guage. I actually take this over everything as we almost always have a long climb to start with so I leave the tires a little firmer than normal for the climb. 

Have fun!


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

My previous hand pump, a Crank Brothers Dual Air, didn't have a hose connection and I would break Presta valves all the time. If the hand pump is directly connected to the valve stem, you end up bending the valve stem back and forth with every pump stroke. I'll never buy a stick pump without a hose for that reason.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Flash said:


> Speaking of which, what pressures are people using in the Fox Float? I'm 210 or so trail ready. I've settled around 260 or 270 but getting just over half travel. As discussed earlier, I plan on making some shock changes, just too busy for a while.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I'm running 260psi rear with EVOL sleeve no spacers - yet&#8230; 95psi in the fork. I'm 190lb in full riding gear and getting almost full travel. The EVOL was a recent upgrade and I would highly recommend it!
Before the EVOL I was running 205psi in the rear and had bottom out issues and terrible small bump response. The useless 'autosag' set me to 190psi and that bottomed out even more, but the small bump was better.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

TEvans73 said:


> I'm running 260psi rear with EVOL sleeve no spacers - yet&#8230; 95psi in the fork. I'm 190lb in full riding gear and getting almost full travel. The EVOL was a recent upgrade and I would highly recommend it!
> Before the EVOL I was running 205psi in the rear and had bottom out issues and terrible small bump response. The useless 'autosag' set me to 190psi and that bottomed out even more, but the small bump was better.


On a different forum someone told me to not use the EVOL can. Do you have a part number or proper part name? Where did you get yours? I need to try it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Flash said:


> On a different forum someone told me to not use the EVOL can. Do you have a part number or proper part name? Where did you get yours? I need to try it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


On this forum thread, everyone that's tried it says to use it, including me 

Do a search in this thread. The specific part numbers have been mentioned multiple times. You can get it directly from Fox.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Cool man, thanks. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

darkhorse13 said:


> Hey everyone,
> So I decided to upgrade the factory Fox Float DPS shock on my stock Comp Carbon with the Fox EVOL air sleeve. I just got off the phone with Fox and here's what i got for you all.
> 
> 1) Fox EVOL air sleeve upgrade (non-Kashima) = part #806-29-411-KIT ($60 msrp; $11.99 shipping)
> ...


Excellent, thanks!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

So are the majority of you guys running wider rims on our bikes? Anyone staying on the 29mm inner diameters and happy? Seems the industry suggests 40-45mm for running 3.0s, which is why I don't really get why its spec'd with 29s. 

I have the ability to get a good condition, used pair of easton arc 45s paired with DTswiss 350s boost wheelset for $450 shipped. Should I jump on that?


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,

Go for the EVOL can or Vorsprung Corset upgrade. Its worth it.

I'm using the Vorsprung Corset. The plushness of the initial stroke n the much better mid stroke support are very good upgrades to the Autosag Fox.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I have joined the club. RUBY has come home...


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

ejewels said:


> So are the majority of you guys running wider rims on our bikes? Anyone staying on the 29mm inner diameters and happy? Seems the industry suggests 40-45mm for running 3.0s, which is why I don't really get why its spec'd with 29s.
> 
> I have the ability to get a good condition, used pair of easton arc 45s paired with DTswiss 350s boost wheelset for $450 shipped. Should I jump on that?


I am happy with the 29ID rim but in saying that i havent tried a wider rim. If i can find a wider rim wheelset for that price i think i wouldnt hesitate to buy it!


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Nice color bad andy! Welcome to the plus size side


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

bad andy said:


> I have joined the club. RUBY has come home...
> 
> View attachment 1091694


Cool colors. These are rented a lot up here. I always call it a watermelon or a frog. Which configuration is this color scheme on?

I love my fattie but wasn't crazy about the color options: red, black and a tangerine color. I got the red.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'm pretty happy with the 29 ID rims. I don't know how much better it could get and not sure a marginal gain would be worth the effort or the weight. But I haven't ridden wide rims except on a fuze test ride


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Ugh!! Tuesday can't come fast enough! My SWorks 2017 has hit the shop. Picking it up Tuesday. My current 2016 Expert is going to my son!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Milkman3371 said:


> Ugh!! Tuesday can't come fast enough! My SWorks 2017 has hit the shop. Picking it up Tuesday. My current 2016 Expert is going to my son!


Instead of the Corvette/Harley/20-something-hottie, is the S-works the modern day equivalent of the mid-life crisis mobile? It was for me, at least :thumbsup:


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Drevil said:


> Instead of the Corvette/Harley/20-something-hottie, is the S-works the modern day equivalent of the mid-life crisis mobile? It was for me, at least :thumbsup:


I disagree with "mid life crisis". I have read the person you are at 50 is the person you take to the grave. No crisis riding around a fatty 6 or any other bike, or surfing, hiking etc. We have set our future.


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## crazyoldfool (Jul 2, 2015)

ejewels said:


> So are the majority of you guys running wider rims on our bikes? Anyone staying on the 29mm inner diameters and happy? Seems the industry suggests 40-45mm for running 3.0s, which is why I don't really get why its spec'd with 29s.
> 
> I have the ability to get a good condition, used pair of easton arc 45s paired with DTswiss 350s boost wheelset for $450 shipped. Should I jump on that?


IMHO I think the wides are better suited. I just switched from the 29id stock Rovals to WTB Scraper i45. Sidewall stiffness is incomparable and tire "squish" is gone. Im a large rider at #240 so that makes a big difference too, I know. I paid around $800 otd with Hope 4's and installed tubeless. $450 sounds like a good deal... I know little about Eastons but I know the DT 350's are good.


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## shemers (Apr 22, 2010)

New owner of a '16 Comp Carbon here. I decided to try the Specialized Big Bore pump. As others have said, I just carry the pump to get me off the trail in the event of a problem, so I don't need the pressure gauge. Also, the Big Bore has a pull out hose connection to the pump head so you won't damage your valve while pumping. I was pleased to find that the Big Bore fits into the smaller SWAT bag and into the frame door very nicely. Pulling the velcro as tight as I can on the SWAT bag, it is 100% overlapped at the smaller diameter pump end and misses about 1/4" of velcro on the wider diameter end. The pump head has a nice locking feature and seals very well to presta and schrader. It took about 120 pumps to go from full flat to 15 PSI on stock tire/rim set up tubeless. Really the only downsides I see to this pump are that it has no pressure gauge and is a bit pricey at $45.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

bad andy said:


> I have joined the club. RUBY has come home...
> 
> View attachment 1091694


Please post a few more photos... that color is sick!


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Drevil said:


> Instead of the Corvette/Harley/20-something-hottie, is the S-works the modern day equivalent of the mid-life crisis mobile? It was for me, at least :thumbsup:


I think my mid-life crisis is more line with the Jeep/KTM/40-something-hottie club


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Shemers, thanks for the hand pump details.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I have pic of my S. How do you post pics? I must me an idiot. I'm
Trying from my iPhone and I see no where to choose to post pics!!! I pick it up Tuesday!

specs: upgrade to 38mm Rovals. Race Face bars, Guide Ultimates, XTR SPDS. Good gosh I can't wait!!!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

To post pictures use the + button to type a reply. Under the plus + you will see to add pictures. This is for tapatalk on the iPhone 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Milkman3371 said:


> I have pic of my S. How do you post pics? I must me an idiot. I'm
> Trying from my iPhone and I see no where to choose to post pics!!! I pick it up Tuesday!
> 
> specs: upgrade to 38mm Rovals. Race Face bars, Guide Ultimates, XTR SPDS. Good gosh I can't wait!!!


Can't wait to see this bike porn!


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Anyone try one of the 2017 Pro's yet with the Pike and Ohlins shock? Curious how it compares to the 16 Expertt.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I can tell you my current Expert has a pike. Much better than the Fox.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Just purchase the 16 Comp and rides real nice but will be changing the wheels cause 29mm is just too narrow for a 3" tire and I could feel it yesterday on the trail, I have a carbon bike with 50mm rims and the tires grip much better and no weird sensation while rolling twisty trails. 
Also, need to change the cranks, 175mm is just too long, have ground contact too many times in turns and even going over some real small bumps. Need to do some research.

Overall I'm very happy with the bike.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Nash04 said:


> Just purchase the 16 Comp and rides real nice but will be changing the wheels cause 29mm is just too narrow for a 3" tire and I could feel it yesterday on the trail, I have a carbon bike with 50mm rims and the tires grip much better and no weird sensation while rolling twisty trails.
> Also, need to change the cranks, 175mm is just too long, have ground contact too many times in turns and even going over some real small bumps. Need to do some research.
> 
> Overall I'm very happy with the bike.


Congrats on the purchase! The rim size is open to debate as you'll read from others in this thread. A lot depends on your weight. If the 29s were definitely too narrow as in not supposed to work together, spesh wouldn't have put them on the bike. That said, I'm curious to try a 40mm rim. Also, with the low BB pedal strikes are more frequent. 175s are spec'd on most bikes and I thought of changing myself but I think a lot of it is technique. Seems you need to use momentum as your friend.

I wonder how others are finding the pedal strikes? Would be curious to hear how others deal...


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Well also forgot to mention the tires are Dirt wizards on the 50mm which has much better grip/traction not saying the GC are not good but I just prefer the Dirt Wizards.

I'm also used of riding with 170mm so perhaps I just need to get used to 175mm but sooner or later they'll be change.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

What is everyone's opinion on 3.0 vs 2.8 tires? I noticed most of the new Maxxis plus sizes are 2.8.... Would the stock width wheels be better suited to a 2.8 tire? Is the wide rim trend just to support the 3.0 tires or is the wider rim really just that much better?

If it matters, I weigh 220 ready to ride and do my riding on literally every type of terrain, I have everything except rocky Moab type riding available to ride so I need something that can really be an all around setup. So far I have not noticed any issues with the stock 29mm wheels so I'm really wondering if the rims are really needed at this point.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Milkman3371 said:


> I can tell you my current Expert has a pike. Much better than the Fox.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why do you think it's better than the Fox, have you ridden both current generation forks on the 6fattie?


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

Almost all plus bikes are coming out with 40mm rims or larger and lots with 2.8 on the 40mm even 1 that I know of with 2.8 on a 45mm rim. 
When I mentioned to my LBS that I was thinking of a 6fattie they laughed and said it made no sense with a 29mm rim.


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

I've got a set easton arc40s. Wide rims do make a difference however they do dent easy.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Windigo said:


> Almost all plus bikes are coming out with 40mm rims or larger and lots with 2.8 on the 40mm even 1 that I know of with 2.8 on a 45mm rim.
> When I mentioned to my LBS that I was thinking of a 6fattie they laughed and said it made no sense with a 29mm rim.


I guess your LBS are more knowledgeable than specialized engineers then? There's no question that the industry is going all over the place with rim width, but I wouldn't say it makes no sense.

With that said I do want to try some wider rims. I just worry about the weight with non carbon.


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## Guest (Sep 5, 2016)

crfnick56 said:


> What is everyone's opinion on 3.0 vs 2.8 tires? I noticed most of the new Maxxis plus sizes are 2.8.... Would the stock width wheels be better suited to a 2.8 tire? Is the wide rim trend just to support the 3.0 tires or is the wider rim really just that much better?


Oh my is this a loaded question but i'll wade in to my ankles.....given MTB past history with specificity towards rim/tire fitment on complete bikes and or frame up builds VS a more modern day combo the trend has certainly gained volume in both rim width and tire size to the tune of P L U S. Naturally each persons take/experience/likes will vary with all that is debatable but if i may say the plus rim-tire combo that on the surface may hit the target between old & new is i35 rims & 2.8's.....it seems to be the 'happy place' if you will.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Windigo said:


> Almost all plus bikes are coming out with 40mm rims or larger and lots with 2.8 on the 40mm even 1 that I know of with 2.8 on a 45mm rim.
> When I mentioned to my LBS that I was thinking of a 6fattie they laughed and said it made no sense with a 29mm rim.


Are they a specialized dealer?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

tfinator said:


> Are they a specialized dealer?


My guess would certainly be no. I would have rather had the 38s stock on my bike. The 29s work. I'm betting the 29s were used to keep the weight down. Again though, I would prefer the 38s even with a few more grams. It's easier to dial in proper inflation with a wider rim. With the 29mm I'm kind of stuck in the middle on psi.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Flash said:


> My guess would certainly be no. I would have rather had the 38s stock on my bike. The 29s work. I'm betting the 29s were used to keep the weight down. Again though, I would prefer the 38s even with a few more grams. It's easier to dial in proper inflation with a wider rim. With the 29mm I'm kind of stuck in the middle on psi.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I mean, I could guess too, but I figured I would ask to actually get an answer


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

My Specialized LBS even stated that it was wrong for them to install the 29mm rim on those bikes, guess it's because they're trying to sell you the Rovals. Getting ready to order some Hope Pro 4 hubs and will have my LBS install them on my Carbon 50mm rims which I've been using for the last year on my other bike.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Does anybody know the width of our BB, am looking towards some Race Face cranks but don't know what length of spindle that I need. 

Thanks


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## Windigo (Jul 24, 2014)

tfinator said:


> Are they a specialized dealer?


Not that LBS but have spoke to a few Specialized dealers in the area and they were all baffled about the rim size and said they had no answer as to why.

Did speak to a Specialized rep about it though and his answer was that Specialized did not think it was necessary to have a wider rim.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I have rode both forks. I never could get the Fox dialed in for me. I have RC3T pikes on my other rigs. I tried it, it wasn't for me so I sold it. I bought the first Boost Pike out of my shop last year. Great fork. Plush, just works. I always felt "pogo-ish" on the Fox. That's just me. 

With that being said.. Picking up my SWorks tomorrow with the Ohlins. I'm so excited. Everything I have read their suspension is "next level stuff". 

And as far as the 29/30 rims... Not much weight difference on the 38s compared to the 30s in carbon. I had both. I tried both. 38s feel more planted for sure. I had a weird sensation in the corners with the 30s. With that being said Spec Absolutely knew the 3.0 tires of 2016 were problematic. By their own mouths... Hence the GRID casing for 2017. The tire is supposed to have a better sidewall and work better with the 29/30s. Me, you can't go wrong with the 38mm Rovals. That's why I switched before I even took delivery of the new rig. I have been told by two Spec reps. One of which was involved in testing. They ALL liked the 38s better. It was purely a weight decision. Look at the new Carbon SWorks Fuze... It has 38mm Spec'd

I am not a pro. I am not an avid racer (I have entered a few) I am just your 39 year old man who picked up mountain biking 6 years ago. I like nice stuff and I do well for myself. I ride 5-6 days a week at my local single track, 5 minutes from home. 

Will update when I get my new baby!


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Just because your local LBS says something doesn't mean they are right. I'd trust the specialized engineers over some kid in a bike shop personally. 

Weight is most likely why they didn't go wide. Also tire profile.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

Windigo said:


> Not that LBS but have spoke to a few Specialized dealers in the area and they were all baffled about the rim size and said they had no answer as to why.
> 
> Did speak to a Specialized rep about it though and his answer was that Specialized did not think it was necessary to have a wider rim.


Yeah, just curious if it was the trek dealer saying they thought it was sooooo dumb... But hey have your seen this fuel ex?


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

ejewels said:


> Just because your local LBS says something doesn't mean they are right. I'd trust the specialized engineers over some kid in a bike shop personally.
> 
> Weight is most likely why they didn't go wide. Also tire profile.


For all we know the engineers wanted to go wider, but the marketing people won the battle on hitting the price point and parts availability.

We can all guess on the inner workings of a company, but in the end the only thing that matters is the spec, and if it works for you.

It wouldn't make a difference to me, probably, but I'm an XC nerd, and pretty light.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

i have the option to get a set of used arc 45s with dt Swiss 350s for 450 shipped. Do you guys think they would be too wide and heavy for this bike?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

crfnick56 said:


> What is everyone's opinion on 3.0 vs 2.8 tires? I noticed most of the new Maxxis plus sizes are 2.8.... Would the stock width wheels be better suited to a 2.8 tire? Is the wide rim trend just to support the 3.0 tires or is the wider rim really just that much better?
> 
> If it matters, I weigh 220 ready to ride and do my riding on literally every type of terrain, I have everything except rocky Moab type riding available to ride so I need something that can really be an all around setup. So far I have not noticed any issues with the stock 29mm wheels so I'm really wondering if the rims are really needed at this point.


The 2.8's are the bike industries knee-jerk answer to converting 29ers to 27.5+. Unfortunately, it seems that almost everyone is jumping on that bandwagon until the industry catches up to 3.0-3.2 size tires. The 3.0's, on the other hand, have gotten a terrible reputation due to all the early Schwalbe 2.8 tires ripping sidewalls (not sure how 3.0 tires got blamed for it). Personally, the more people I see riding plus tires, the more options I will have in the long run - 2.8's or 3.0's or even 3.2's at some point.

29mm rims are kinda the same deal... they got a bad rep early on cause some vocal people just wanted wider rims. The downside of wider rims is that it squares out the tire tread, meaning the bike won't have as much traction being leaned in a corner (especially since people are trying to mount 2.8's to the widest rim they can find).


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

38=happy medium.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I am not a fan of wider than 30mm Internal. Rocks are my big concern, having anymore rim exposed than needed is not good for my wallet or my ridding. 

Like everything else with our bikes it's all about compromise and there is no perfect solution. What I may think is perfect you might think is garbage. If you can, ride a bunch of different solutions and try not to be bias and pick the one that gave you the best experience. 

There are a ton of people out there that say plus bikes are crap, if I listened to them I wouldn't be on this forum and having a blast on my 6 Fattie. I ignored them and just rode the bike to make up my own mind and as you can see I loved the bike.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ejewels said:


> i have the option to get a set of used arc 45s with dt Swiss 350s for 450 shipped. Do you guys think they would be too wide and heavy for this bike?


I don't think so. It might not be optimal for the PCs, but it will be lighter than the Scrapers that everyone rides. I've been considering the same wheelset with Arc40s, but have been holding off because I haven't found them at anything resembling that good a price.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

phride said:


> I don't think so. It might not be optimal for the PCs, but it will be lighter than the Scrapers that everyone rides. I've been considering the same wheelset with Arc40s, but have been holding off because I haven't found them at anything resembling that good a price.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


PCs? And many get the wtb scrapers for this bike?

I have a lot of roots and rocks where I ride so I wonder about rock strikes as well.

Side questions- the 6fattie is identical to the 29er version of the stumpy, correct? So if I wanted to get some light, 2.4 29er wheels I could and it would all be the same otherwise? It also seems the stumpy carbon versions have 150mm of travel where as the alloy versions have 135 across all bikes. I wonder if this means the alloy could take a longer travel shock to make it 150?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

PCs = Purgatory Controls. I like the way they grip on the stock i29 rims with the roundish profile giving a smooth transition as you lean them over in the corners. Others have said that this remains the case on i38s but that the PC profile flattens on i45 and i50 and somebody said that the transition knobs don't work as well then but that's a pretty limited sample size. For what it's worth, Specialized specced Ground Controls rather than PCs on the Fuse when it had i45 Scrapers but now has PCs up front with i38 rims. I ride with a guy on Wednesdays who just or Scrapers on his 6 Fattie. I'll see what he has to say. I wouldn't concern myself with rock strikes. A 3-inch tire on i45s provides about the same protection as a 2.4-inch tire on i30s, and that's good enough for the EWS riders. 

A 29er wheelset will work fine on the 6 Fattie, but you are mistaken about the 150 travel. That's not a thing for this bike. That's the smaller 650b Stumpjumper. 



Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Thanks. Would be interested in what your friend thinks about them. I'd rather the arc 40s but at this price it's tempting.

I'm assuming I can't just buy the rims and have my LBS lace what I currently have up to them because of the different spoke hole counts?

And if you go on specializeds site, the regular alloy stumpy 650b says 135 for travel. I'm curious about it.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

I HAVE rode a bunch of set ups. The narrow rims, in my opinion, don't give you the full benefits of the plus tire. You get more air volume running the wider rims. I come from the jeep industry and the years of fourwheeling I have done. Run a 35x13.50 on a 15x7 rim, what do you get? Terrible ride, bead coming dislodged at lower pressures, the list goes on.

I have tried 29s, 30s, 45s, 35s and finally 38s on the SAME bike, SAME tires. The 38s felt "just right". Cornering was good, plush feel was good. No burps. The 45 feels like the cornering suffered. Straight it was fine.

I always have said "in my opinion". Never was bias. I did my own testing, money wasting.

Again, I have personally spoken with one of the testers from Specialized. He stated all testers like the 38s the best. It was a weight and cost move.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Where does one get these 38mm rims? I can get arc 40s with dtswiss350 hubs for 750 built. Can the 38mm be found cheaper? If so I may jump on those.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Also, just a quick gut check... these bikes are 6 bolt not centerlock correct?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

ejewels said:


> Also, just a quick gut check... these bikes are 6 bolt not centerlock correct?


Yep! 6 Bolts. If you're talking about the Rovals 38mm which you can purchase from Specialized for $1500.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Thanks. looks like the arc 40s is the way to go then lol. I can't swing that much cash at the moment although I know that carbon goodness would be nice and light.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

*Fattie Pron...*

It has been a glorious 4 days with *Ruby Dooby McBooty*. Picked her up friday, all 32lbs 2oz (bone-stock. medium w/flat pedals) of her. A bit hefty when fondling by hand, you know - the parking lot 'lift' - but rides lighter on trail. Perhaps that's the 11-speed that I'm not accustomed to, helping out. Nonetheless, I like to upgrade so here's the list:

Oury Grips
Anvl stem (35mm)
Raceface SIXC bars @ 780mm
Red Box seat clamp
Red alu bottle cage bolts, good for savings of at least 1.2gm 
Red pulley bolts
Gamut Podium pedals
Light Bicycle i45 rims, pillar spokes, brass nips
Hope Pro4 Evo boost hubs.
red tubeless valves
Nobby Nic 3.0 f/r

At this point, she's 29lbs 6oz and a bit peppier on trail.

Riding Observations:
F'n awesome.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

nice bike. Size small? Wish I had the funds to drop like that within 4 days of ownership! LOL

do you like the LB rims? Did you order them built up or just the rims?


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## Guest (Sep 6, 2016)

oh Ruby Dooby McBooty is pretty special.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

ejewels said:


> nice bike. Size small? Wish I had the funds to drop like that within 4 days of ownership! LOL
> 
> do you like the LB rims? Did you order them built up or just the rims?


size medium. All the take-off parts are going in my parts recycling/winter project bin, so they will be used. Eventually.
I had LB build the wheels, it's just easier and I've had good experience with their builds. This is my 3rd set from them over the years.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Awesome. Bike just looked smaller but probably because of the wheels. How long did the LB wheels take to get to you? Did they set up tubeless easy? I heard some people had issues with seating them. I guess that would be a warranty issue though. I might have them build them up with the hope hubs... I believe the price was around 854 IIRC.

Also, did you go 32h or 28 for spoke count?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

ejewels said:


> Awesome. Bike just looked smaller but probably because of the wheels. How long did the LB wheels take to get to you? Did they set up tubeless easy? I heard some people had issues with seating them. I guess that would be a warranty issue though. I might have them build them up with the hope hubs... I believe the price was around 854 IIRC.
> 
> Also, did you go 32h or 28 for spoke count?


It took them about 3 weeks to build and ship to me. Closer to $1k after shipping. I went 32 hole. They set-up tubeless pretty easily. Had to help the tire manually a bit by pulling the beads upwards toward the rim edge to alleviate any large air holes. Then they filled right up with the compressor.

By the way, you can tell the small size on these frames easily. They don't have the additional bridging from the shock mount area to the seatpost. It appears as a single top-tube.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Good to see you went through the process and are happy. I may pull the trigger... just wondering how i45 will be if I want to run 2.8s...


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Just so I'm aware... the Purgatorys that come with these bikes are 1100 grams each correct? (per speshs site). I'm looking at possibly putting a nobby nic 2.8 out back... arts cyclery shows 787 grams for that. Does this all sound legit? That would be decent weight savings.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

I would recommend against 2.8 tires on the 6Fattie! The bottom bracket is already low, too low for many, and dropping another 5mm or so would make the problem even worse.

The 3.0 Nobby Nic only weighs about 900g (based on two samples, 877 and 896g) and would be a better choice. It would maintain geometry and provide more traction and cush.

You may be able score an "older" Purgatory at 960g. These tend to slowly leak sealant thru the sidewalls, but in most cases it's so slow that it's not really a problem. The Purg is a great rear tire. There are also a few of the 1000g non-Grid Purgs still in shops.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Oh OK, so even if I went with the 3.0 nobby, it still would be lighter than the stock ones I have now.

With that said, I wonder if going to wider rims heightens the bike or lowers it?


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Murchman said:


> I couldn't take the crap FSA headset anymore and replaced it with a Canecreek 40 Part# BAA783K [url=http://www.canecreek.com/store/headsets/40/tapered
> Murchman, I also couldn't deal with the piece of crap headset on my 6Fattie. Since March, the bottom bearing has come apart 3 times upon inspection. I ordered the same Cane Creek 40 and some shims just in case. I do have one question for you though. I've read in several places that the CC 40 headset has some kind of "clip" that holds the top assembly (top cover and compression ring together. I know the shims (if needed) will go between the top cover and the compression ring so can I assume by your success that the assembly does in fact come apart?
> Thanks


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

gigrob said:


> Murchman said:
> 
> 
> > I couldn't take the crap FSA headset anymore and replaced it with a Canecreek 40 Part# BAA783K
> ...


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Anyone tried the Rocket Ron 3.0? I'm thinking of one on the rear with the Ground Control on the front. I'm also wondering how the Purgatory will be in light of packed snow. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

The RR is lightweight and rolls well, but it does not have much grip (obvious from the tread pattern). It does break loose predictably, just much too easily for me. Less grip than the Ground Control and much less than the Purgatory.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

5'8" riders...Are you riding medium or large?


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## Luckyluc (Dec 20, 2015)

5'8" riding a medium and it's very comfortable.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

prj71 said:


> 5'8" riders...Are you riding medium or large?


I used to be 5 9", but I shrunk. Medium is good


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

prj71 said:


> 5'8" riders...Are you riding medium or large?


thats about the perfect height for a medium IMO (assuming normal proportions). I'm a tad over 5'9 without shoes and rock the medium. Going by the size chart I could be on either one. The large just felt too big and tall and I rode both extensively. On the medium, I put the seat back a little more than usual, but all in all I'd take slightly smaller than bigger for my trails.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Anyone run 2.8s without being affected by the lower BB?


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

I'm 5'8" and have a medium but I noticed that on long rides I tend to hold the bars with the backs of my extended fingers so I could sit up a little. So I purchased a 35mm stem and took it around the block and it felt like it put me in a better position but I will not know until I go on a real ride. 

Speaking of real rides, took the fattie out to Sedona on a tough 16 mile ride, the bike handled perfectly, even hit a stretch of road at 36.9 mph and it was perfect. This was literally the hardest ride of my life, didn't think i could make it back at one point.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ejewels said:


> Anyone run 2.8s without being affected by the lower BB?


I run 3.0s, and I'm routinely affected by the already very low BB. it's stunning how small a rock can catch your pedals.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## arka (Apr 28, 2010)

5'9" on a medium, changed to a 30mm stem but feel that the cockpit is maybe just a tad cramped right now, I pushed my seat back so much that I feel it might compromise climbing ability.

Might try 35mm and 40mm stems, even though I really want to put my bling 30mm Syntace stem to use  The stock 60mm stem was way to long for me, thats for sure.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

phride said:


> I run 3.0s, and I'm routinely affected by the already very low BB. it's stunning how small a rock can catch your pedals.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


yes I have a lot of rock strikes, more than on any other bike before. Not sure why the industry is lowering BBs so much on trail bikes meant to do techy climbs and rock gardens. I'm thinking a small area clipless pedal can help if you don't wanna run shorter crank arms. That and stiffening suspension in those areas. I was thinking of getting a boost 29er wheelset and see how that affects things.


----------



## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

arka said:


> 5'9" on a medium, changed to a 30mm stem but feel that the cockpit is maybe just a tad cramped right now, I pushed my seat back so much that I feel it might compromise climbing ability.
> 
> Might try 35mm and 40mm stems, even though I really want to put my bling 30mm Syntace stem to use  The stock 60mm stem was way to long for me, thats for sure.


See, I'm same height (a tad over) and with semi longer arms, shorter torso and long legs, I have to ride a 60 to get the reach I want. 50 would prob be minimum. I ordered a renthal apex 35 in 60 mm along with the fatbar lite 760. Psyched!

Also, people with long thighs need to adjust the seat back (like myself) a lot if they want to get near KOPS. I've been told you adjust for reach with stem length, not saddle fore/aft. I could see how running a short stem with the saddle back puts your weight back, though. You may want to try a 40 or 50.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

To Levity's point, would running wider rims also shorten the wheel height effectively making the BB even closer to the ground? Seems a lot of people are running wider rims and happy with it.


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## arka (Apr 28, 2010)

ejewels said:


> To Levity's point, would running wider rims also shorten the wheel height effectively making the BB even closer to the ground? Seems a lot of people are running wider rims and happy with it.


I think the difference will be negligible, not in any way like going from 3.0" to 2.8" tires.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Does anyone know the largest capacity water bottle that will fit in the medium frame? I have a 24oz camelbak that fits well, and see there's a 26oz specialized that may likely fit. 

Anything over 30oz out there that fits?


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

yeah I've been researching other brands and our BB's seem a tad lower. The hightower BBH is 335mm (i'm assuming measured with the 2.8's) and ours is 331 with 3.0's. It limits tire choices if you care about technical climbs and rocky/techy stuff. I guess a lot of it is rider technique and adapting, too.

With that said the new fuel EX is 325 with the 2.8s... the same as our bikes. Not sure what it would be with 3.0s.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

A forum user who is a tire designer in the automotive industry and a forum math geek developed a model, did some calculations, validated them against a series of tires, and then compiled the results for a variety of tires. The drop in casing height for a 3-inch Specialized Ground Control going from a 30mm ID rim to a 45mm ID rim was 1 mm.


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Oh ok, so not much at all.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ejewels said:


> yeah I've been researching other brands and our BB's seem a tad lower. The hightower BBH is 335mm (i'm assuming measured with the 2.8's) and ours is 331 with 3.0's. It limits tire choices if you care about technical climbs and rocky/techy stuff. I guess a lot of it is rider technique and adapting, too.
> 
> With that said the new fuel EX is 325 with the 2.8s... the same as our bikes. Not sure what it would be with 3.0s.


This is the drawback to the dual-wheelsize compatible frames. They were designed around 29er wheels, and 27.5+ tires were added with a bolt-on longer fork or adjustable geometry to help compensate for the reduced ground clearance in the smaller, softer tires. Specialized simply has a bigger fetish for low BBs than most other manufacturers, so the starting point for their Stumpy frame was lower.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Yeah I've noticed myself having to be way more conscience of pedal strikes and clearing logs. But a lot of it is technique and me being lazy. Seems like Trek is the same way.

On a side note, the wtb website says the scraper i40 is designed for 2.8 wheels, and the i45 for 3.0. From what I read, the 40 is the way to go for flexibility. Would it be better to get the 40 or 45?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

bad andy said:


> Does anyone know the largest capacity water bottle that will fit in the medium frame? I have a 24oz camelbak that fits well, and see there's a 26oz specialized that may likely fit.
> 
> Anything over 30oz out there that fits?


I don't think 30oz will fit considering my own trial of different bottles:

__
https://flic.kr/p/27718832891


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

prj71 said:


> 5'8" riders...Are you riding medium or large?


5'9", medium. I swapped to a 50mm 0deg Thomson stem.


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## arka (Apr 28, 2010)

IMHO, the BB is indeed insanely low. I picked up the advice in this thread to get an eccentric Gxp BB adapter, since I happened to have a very nice X01 GXP carbon crankset fitted to my old frame, this is total win-win for me. The adapter will raise the bb-height by 8mm, and going from175 to 170mm cranks will give a total 13mm increase in pedal clearance. I think this will be golden, the bike will still be a badass low-slung beast, but with a bit of improved pedaling technique it should allow me to clear those tricky techy climbs.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Milkman3371 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Milkman3371 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe your camera is playing tricks on us, but in one pic the top tube looks orange and in the other, it looks red. Is it red, orange, or the funky heat-changing paints? Specialized fires up color-changing, heat-sensitive paint for Olympians (and you) - Bikerumor


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

arka said:


> IMHO, the BB is indeed insanely low. I picked up the advice in this thread to get an eccentric Gxp BB adapter, since I happened to have a very nice X01 GXP carbon crankset fitted to my old frame, this is total win-win for me. The adapter will raise the bb-height by 8mm, and going from175 to 170mm cranks will give a total 13mm increase in pedal clearance. I think this will be golden, the bike will still be a badass low-slung beast, but with a bit of improved pedaling technique it should allow me to clear those tricky techy climbs.


whats the gxp Bb adapter? Will it work with the stock cranks? I don't want to go to 170s. I think I'll just continue to tweak my technique for the low BB. If you compare to trek it's the same. I think that's just how the industry is going with lower BBs, granted spesh is on the lower end.

also, anyone have an opinion on whether i40 or i45 rims would be best for a 3.0 tire on these bikes?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

It's a Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB. It won't work with the stock cranks. It's been discussed a couple times in this thread. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## ejewels (Jul 16, 2009)

Gotcha. Think I'll just work on my technique for now as I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on some arc 45s.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Drevil said:


> Maybe your camera is playing tricks on us, but in one pic the top tube looks orange and in the other, it looks red. Is it red, orange, or the funky heat-changing paints? Specialized fires up color-changing, heat-sensitive paint for Olympians (and you) - Bikerumor


I think that's what Rocket Red does. I've seen quite a few of the 2016 6fattie experts appear that way, even one I rented for a day. Spec always has sweet paint, despite the very sterile catalog/web photos not really indicating this.

And thanks for the water bottle comparo. I admit 300z+ is likely a pipe dream. Incidentally, your 24oz didn't fit but this one fits great... CamelBak | PODIUM 24 oz Squeezable Water Bottle for Cycling


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Just picked up a sweet StumpJumper jersey that was on clearance! It doesn't match my bike at all, but I love how ridiculously 80s neon it is


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Drevil said:


> Just picked up a sweet StumpJumper jersey that was on clearance! It doesn't match my bike at all, but I love how ridiculously 80s neon it is
> 
> View attachment 1092765


Awesome! My plus bike encourages me to ride like an *******. Now, I can look like one, too.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

bad andy said:


> So as I await delivery of a new '17 6fattie... I'm contemplating my pump situation. I want to try to ditch the pack, and use the SWAT box. Currently I carry a pump AND digital gauge. I saw Lezyne has a cool hand pump with digital gauge built-in: Lezyne - Engineered Design - Products - Hand Pumps - High Volume - Digital Alloy Drive
> 
> Anybody have experience with this gauge? Is it suitable for plus, and fatbike, typical tire pressures? (below 20psi)
> 
> Thanks


I can report that the above Lezyne pump fits perfectly in the pump SWAT wrap. The air gauge also seems accurate and matched my SKS gauge readings. The pump's gauge doesn't indicate .5 psi increments however so that will take some adapting to. Awesome pump though, Lezyne knows what they're doing.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

bad andy said:


> I can report that the above Lezyne pump fits perfectly in the pump SWAT wrap. The air gauge also seems accurate and matched my SKS gauge readings. The pump's gauge doesn't indicate .5 psi increments however so that will take some adapting to. Awesome pump though, Lezyne knows what they're doing.


Nice. I need a new pump. The description indicates a flex air hose, but I didn't see it pictured. It does use one, correct?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

phride said:


> Nice. I need a new pump. The description indicates a flex air hose, but I didn't see it pictured. It does use one, correct?
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


If it's like the HV I have, you unscrew it from one side, pull it out, then screw it into the other end of the pump.









I also have a Specialized hand pump with a flex air hose, but it's permanently attached and quicker to use. However, it does not have the digital gauge like the Lezyne. I prefer Spec's setup, but have only had it for a few months compared to my multiple Lezynes, which I've had for years: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/accessories/air-tool-flex-pump/117279


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Got my new S-Works FSR 6F recently, switched the bars for Renthal 40mm riser, tyres to Rocket Rons 2.8 tubeless, ONI grips, DMR Vault Mag's, replaced the main ring for a 32t, and fitted a single offset bushing on the shock... As you might expect I'm now getting some serious pedal strike with the BB now 10mm lower...

I really want to switch the forks for a Float 36 as I don't feel I have quite enough up front and it'll lift the BB slightly but after spending a small fortunate already, new forks are a bit of a dream right now...

Shame the shock doesn't have a trigger, I'm always having to fiddle about whilst moving between lock and open settings...

Love the bike!

Oh...peeled off the orange stickers so I have a cleaner blacked out wheel which I think looks cooler...also saves another 60grams of weight..!!

With tyre savings and other changes the bike is now nearly 1kg lighter than factory spec..


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*longer travel air shaft for Fox 34 fork*



Patu said:


> ... I really want to switch the forks for a Float 36 as I don't feel I have quite enough up front and it'll lift the BB slightly but after spending a small fortunate already, new forks are a bit of a dream right now...


Patu,

You can extend the Fox Float 34 fork with a longer air shaft. The part # below will take you to 160mm.

820-02-366-KIT
Service Set: Air Shaft Assy, 34, 160mm, FLOAT NA 2, 1.214" Bore

More info and a "how to" pictorial here:

2016 32mm/34mm FLOAT Internally Adjusting Fork Travel | Bike Help Center | FOX

It's a straight-forward 20 min procedure. It's especially easy if you buy the the damper removal tools.

Steering will slow a bit, and the front end may get a bit floppy with the small tires.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Wow, great tip! Thanks, I'm going to give that a try, many thanks!!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

x2...good tip!


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## tcianca (Aug 28, 2013)

Hello, has anybody tried to upgrade the fox shox to a monarch plus debonair rc3 (197x48mm)?

I often use my bike in bike parks and I want to know if it is a better upgrade than the evol sleeve for the fox that many of you has upgraded.

Thanks


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

tcianca said:


> Hello, has anybody tried to upgrade the fox shox to a monarch plus debonair rc3 (197x48mm)?
> 
> I often use my bike in bike parks and I want to know if it is a better upgrade than the evol sleeve for the fox that many of you has upgraded.
> 
> Thanks


Just checked this out...how are those of you that have done this finding the upgrade? Is it worth doing>

Thanks


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*Taller fork*

For those people interested in raising the front of the bike,

note that a Pike is about 5mm taller than a Fox 34 at the same travel, don't know about the Ohlins. A Fox 36 is a bit taller still.

Increasing a fork's travel by 10mm, will only raise the front by 7-8mm, due to sag.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Tjaard said:


> For those people interested in raising the front of the bike,
> 
> note that a Pike is about 5mm taller than a Fox 34 at the same travel, don't know about the Ohlins. A Fox 36 is a bit taller still.
> 
> Increasing a fork's travel by 10mm, will only raise the front by 7-8mm, due to sag.


Hi,

Do you happen to know what offset I need if I am considering changing to a 160mm Pike/Lyric boost fork?

Sounds crazy, but I thought of having a slacker HTA with a higher bb to try on the new 2.8 Maxxis.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

revver said:


> Hi,
> 
> Do you happen to know what offset I need if I am considering changing to a 160mm Pike/Lyric boost fork?
> 
> Sounds crazy, but I thought of having a slacker HTA with a higher bb to try on the new 2.8 Maxxis.


Nothing crazy about that.
Most of these are only available with 51mm offset.
You don't NEED a certain offset, it's nothing to do with fitting parts together. Fork offset is part of your overal geometry.
If you want a slacker HTA for more stable steering, you would want the same or shorter offset, to keep trail long. Going to a larger fork offset will decrease trail, just like a steeper HTA.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi,
> 
> Do you happen to know what offset I need if I am considering changing to a 160mm Pike/Lyric boost fork?
> 
> Sounds crazy, but I thought of having a slacker HTA with a higher bb to try on the new 2.8 Maxxis.


The stock forks are 51mm offset. I don't think you could find larger than that to compensate for the longer fork. Search the thread; others have tried 160mm forks, and at least one person said that it made the front end a little floppy climbing (although I could have heard that somewhere else).

The bottom bracket will only be raised by 2-3mm with that change, but that would get you back half of what you'd lose to 2.8 tires, so it's really just a question of how it rides.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks Tjaard n phride.

Sticking with the stock 51mm offset with the Pike/Lyric 160mm fork. I will feedback on the 2.8 Maxxis HR2 or DHF/DHR 2, if I can get my hands on them...


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

revver said:


> Hi,
> 
> Do you happen to know what offset I need if I am considering changing to a 160mm Pike/Lyric boost fork?
> 
> Sounds crazy, but I thought of having a slacker HTA with a higher bb to try on the new 2.8 Maxxis.


Just fyi - the fox fork can be upgraded to a 160mm


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

Just a hunch...

Does anyone else have trouble cornering with this bike? I admit it's probably my skill level, but it seems like making sharp turns, like in a switchback, requires me to use my brakes, is very slow and easier to lose control if I didn't use the brakes to come to a very slow speed. I picked up a used Trek Fuel EX 7 that seems like it is much more precise but I haven't yet ridden it on dirt.

Just curious if anyone else noticed this, or if this is a skill I need to improve.... or if maybe I need different rims or tires for my riding style (?).


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

OffTheTop said:


> Just a hunch...
> 
> Does anyone else have trouble cornering with this bike? I admit it's probably my skill level, but it seems like making sharp turns, like in a switchback, requires me to use my brakes, is very slow and easier to lose control if I didn't use the brakes to come to a very slow speed. I picked up a used Trek Fuel EX 7 that seems like it is much more precise but I haven't yet ridden it on dirt.
> 
> Just curious if anyone else noticed this, or if this is a skill I need to improve.... or if maybe I need different rims or tires for my riding style (?).


My only problem is that I feel like I make any corner at any speed on this bike, and sometimes physics proves me wrong and I overcook it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

OffTheTop said:


> Just a hunch...
> 
> Does anyone else have trouble cornering with this bike? I admit it's probably my skill level, but it seems like making sharp turns, like in a switchback, requires me to use my brakes, is very slow and easier to lose control if I didn't use the brakes to come to a very slow speed. I picked up a used Trek Fuel EX 7 that seems like it is much more precise but I haven't yet ridden it on dirt.
> 
> Just curious if anyone else noticed this, or if this is a skill I need to improve.... or if maybe I need different rims or tires for my riding style (?).


I have been riding the 6fattie for about 1 year, and IMHO I think this might be going on. That is a big front tire, and a lot to get leaned over. Much more so than probably the bike you were riding so give it time. Wider rims and a flatter tire profile will make cornering even slower. The Stumpy has a pretty laid back front end, which takes weight off the front wheel and makes it harder to turn. To make matters worse, the rear suspension has little to no mid travel support so the bike tends to sit back a lot, resulting in steering from the back seat (again not a good thing). Something you might try is to upgrade to the Evol can on the rear shock and drive the bike with your hips. The Stumpy with the 437 chainstays and big tires really excels as a plow bike, a little more difficult tight bike but can be done.

Have fun,


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

OffTheTop said:


> Just a hunch...
> 
> Does anyone else have trouble cornering with this bike? I admit it's probably my skill level, but it seems like making sharp turns, like in a switchback, requires me to use my brakes, is very slow and easier to lose control if I didn't use the brakes to come to a very slow speed. I picked up a used Trek Fuel EX 7 that seems like it is much more precise but I haven't yet ridden it on dirt.
> 
> Just curious if anyone else noticed this, or if this is a skill I need to improve.... or if maybe I need different rims or tires for my riding style (?).


Hey, I have had an Expert since October 2016, and I do agree with your suspicion. The Bike does switchback differently. Going uphill, the bike is actually more awesome due to the enhanced grip and the low BB (as long as you don't pedal strike!).

Going downhill is where the major adjustments are needed for me.

I find it tends to turn in faster and that the front end can wash out if I am not more careful. Partially it feels like if I am in full descend mode with the seat lowered that makes the weight a bit further back and low than optimal at the crucial moment just after crossing the fall line.

The remedy seems to be to not be too low or too far back and also to be able to look ahead properly and turn the bike towards the exit anticipating the lower moment of traction by moving forward over the front wheel dynamically.

Easier said than done.

Also I have had pedal strikes in uneven blocky terrain.

However, all that said, these are not condemnations of the bike's handling. In more situations the bike is better than most.

There remains some learning to do.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

*29er rims and tires for Norcal winter*

Most of the time I do not ride my 6Fattie because local terrain is just too literally pedestrian for 27+.

However, I do love the bike, and this winter I want to try it with 29 rims and tires.

Without posting the photos let me say that I have finally tested the hardware and the swap works.

I bought a pair of Bontrager Duster Elite boost 29 wheels, rotors, a pair of cheap $10 Geax tubeless 29x2.35 tires, Goma model, and an XT cassette.

These rims and tires are at least a pound heavier than stock. So the bike is heavy.

The main questions I had were whether or not the rotors would rub, and would the Sram shifter and derailleur work like cheap or not at all.

Kind of an expensive experiment.

But it all works quite well. Rotors ran free. Shifting was crisp and precise. (Granted, the wear of the chain is a huge factor, and since my bike has low miles, it's not an issue. I will be rotating chains frequently.)

As you would expect there is plenty of clearance for the 29x2.35 tires.

Another major change is the higher BB...not sure what if truly is due to squat...the plus tires really squash down...and the 29 tires will be at much higher pressure.

The result is going to be a drastic change in handling, which I believe will be overall much worse, except in special circumstances.

All the same, I am excited to have the swap ready for when conditions change. It feels like the bike will handle more like old-school.

So who is riding the 6Fattie as a 29er? What are the results?

For me the notion of making a bike different by changing wheels and tires is something I have always enjoyed playing with. For example my 's commuter bike has 2 sets of wheels. One is knobby to ride trails. Most of the time it is a commuter with cheap commuter tires.

Next year I have my sights on carbon rims and different 27+ tires for summer.

In theory I was confident the XT cassette was compatible with the Sram shifting. It does work.

Heavier, taller, harder, whatever, I look forward to damp conditions, log overs, pinning it on hero dirt, and higher creek crossings.


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

I took a demo S-works 6fattie for a ride last week, loved it. Most of my local trails are rocky singletrack, the fattie works very well on them. I was surprised at how fast it is, I took 7 PRs from my Giant Anthem and Trance on the demo ride, on trails that I've ridden over 100 times.

I went back and ordered one, there's no S-works model sold in australia so I went with the carbon expert, hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Anyone have any experience with the Sun Ringle Duroc wheelset? Seems to be a pretty good wheelset for the price from what I can tell but I can't find any reviews anywhere. They are at the upper limit of what I want to spend on wheels right now.


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## LarryinVienna (Jul 19, 2016)

So another rookie question - this one is on basic bike care: after each ride, i hose down the entire bike, then let it air dry. Should I be spraying any oil or grease on anything - maybe the fork or shock stanchions, the seat post, or the chain or chain rings? 

Thanks.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm looking to swap out my tires. I went to loose weight, maintain traction and not have paper thin sidewalls. I'm looking at Rocket Ron Snakeskin, WTB Ranger and anything else in that range that won't totally break the bank. I know this has been discussed before but new tires are coming out often now. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

LarryinVienna said:


> So another rookie question - this one is on basic bike care: after each ride, i hose down the entire bike, then let it air dry. Should I be spraying any oil or grease on anything - maybe the fork or shock stanchions, the seat post, or the chain or chain rings?
> 
> Thanks.


Don't ever wash it. Ever.

Water collects in the bottom bracket and in the headset which will rust the **** out of both of them. If you absolutely need to have it clean, just spray a rag with soapy water and wipe it down.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Don't ever wash it. Ever.
> 
> Water collects in the bottom bracket and in the headset which will rust the **** out of both of them. If you absolutely need to have it clean, just spray a rag with soapy water and wipe it down.


This. I just wipe down the bike after every ride using a brush and dirty cloth for the frame and drive train and a clean cloth on the fork and shock stanchions. If it's muddy, I'll let it dry first. This is also a great time to apply lube, so it protects the drive train between rides, rather than going on wet just as you are about to hit the dirt.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Don't ever wash it. Ever.
> 
> Water collects in the bottom bracket and in the headset which will rust the **** out of both of them. If you absolutely need to have it clean, just spray a rag with soapy water and wipe it down.


Yep, only hose wash just before you tear everything apart for a cleaning and greasing&#8230; headset, bottom bracket and rear linkage.


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## AZ.JC (Aug 8, 2016)

Anybody have an opinion on the 2017 Comp 6fattie vs Comp Carbon, is it worth the $1000 difference? I was ready to pull the trigger on the 2016 Expert Carbon at close out price, but it sold seconds before I was about to order it. I can't justify the full price '17 version.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

AZ.JC said:


> Anybody have an opinion on the 2017 Comp 6fattie vs Comp Carbon, is it worth the $1000 difference? I was ready to pull the trigger on the 2016 Expert Carbon at close out price, but it sold seconds before I was about to order it. I can't justify the full price '17 version.


The Fork, is not so good. Revelation w/32mm stanchions is not up to par for this bike.

That said, aside from the frame being alu and not having SWAT, the spec is pretty identical. You could likely upgrade the fork only for less than $1000.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

AZ.JC said:


> Anybody have an opinion on the 2017 Comp 6fattie vs Comp Carbon, is it worth the $1000 difference? I was ready to pull the trigger on the 2016 Expert Carbon at close out price, but it sold seconds before I was about to order it. I can't justify the full price '17 version.


I demoed the 2015 carbon and purchased the 2016 aluminum. I don't notice any difference in riding. The carbon is maybe a tad lighter.


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

I own a 17 comp alum. Fork performance is good and shock performance is poor IMO for my riding style.


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Just picked up this one, 2017 carbon expert.


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## Milkman3371 (Dec 2, 2012)

Hakka - nice rig! That's like the "ying yang" of my SWorks!


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Milkman3371 said:


> Hakka - nice rig! That's like the "ying yang" of my SWorks!


Would love to see a few up-close photos (possibly measurements) of the new carbon rear stays on pro and S-works StumpJumpers&#8230; Wonder if they slimmed the width down from the 2016/17 aluminum version? My only complaint is that my calves rub sometimes at various points of travel, no big deal but It's sometimes annoying.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Hakka said:


> Just picked up this one, 2017 carbon expert.


That IS a nice looking SJ6f!


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## Kuttermax (Sep 4, 2011)

More review

http://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/27-5-f...-6fattie?utm_source=Twitter&utm_medium=Social

Sent from my Note 7


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Reading the above review! The bike that they used is a large 16 carbon 6 fattie and specs says brake size is 200/180 rotors! Is that the same as the medium size? Cause mine is only 180/160 rotors! And wanting to upgrade my rear to 180. Thanks


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

don1 said:


> Reading the above review! The bike that they used is a large 16 carbon 6 fattie and specs says brake size is 200/180 rotors! Is that the same as the medium size? Cause mine is only 180/160 rotors! And wanting to upgrade my rear to 180. Thanks


small & med are 180/160 large and XL are 200/180


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

don1 said:


> Reading the above review! The bike that they used is a large 16 carbon 6 fattie and specs says brake size is 200/180 rotors! Is that the same as the medium size? Cause mine is only 180/160 rotors! And wanting to upgrade my rear to 180. Thanks


Proper spec per size. Medium and small have smaller rotors.

Oops, beat me to it!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Thanks guys! Is it worth it to upagrade to 180 in the rear? Mine is close to its wear limit! Or maybe just upgrading the rotors to shimano deore xt ice tech rotor?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Yeah dude, put a 180 in the rear. Totally worth it.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Kuttermax said:


> More review
> 
> Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie (2016) review - MBR


I have owned mine for over a year now, and there are some things I agree with and things I dont. First the sizing: I am 6ft tall, and even with a 40mm stem, I had to slide the seat all the way forward to be in a comfortable riding position. I have ridden a couple of bikes with "more room" and had to switch back to a medium frame so that I wouldnt be so stretched out (the Pivot Switchblade is a great example).

Second, the setup: Fox doesn't make volume spacers for the rear shock in its current form, which I don't like, but the suspension is easily fixed. The bike seems to require a bit more pressure in the shocks and a slower rebound. Set the tires at 15/18psi, and you should be good to go. Suspension setup is always a personal thing, but I think they did a pretty good job for a "right out of the box" setting.

3rd: Not sure if he got a bad one, but the Reverb dropper I have has worked flawless for the last 1000 miles. I have had to add/subtract a bit of psi depending on temperature, but other than that is has been perfect. (Which is more than I can say for my old Thompson dropper - RIP).


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I have owned mine for over a year now, and there are some things I agree with and things I dont. First the sizing: I am 6ft tall, and even with a 40mm stem, I had to slide the seat all the way forward to be in a comfortable riding position. I have ridden a couple of bikes with "more room" and had to switch back to a medium frame so that I wouldnt be so stretched out (the Pivot Switchblade is a great example).
> 
> Second, the setup: Fox doesn't make volume spacers for the rear shock in its current form, which I don't like, but the suspension is easily fixed. The bike seems to require a bit more pressure in the shocks and a slower rebound. Set the tires at 15/18psi, and you should be good to go. Suspension setup is always a personal thing, but I think they did a pretty good job for a "right out of the box" setting.
> 
> 3rd: Not sure if he got a bad one, but the Reverb dropper I have has worked flawless for the last 1000 miles. I have had to add/subtract a bit of psi depending on temperature, but other than that is has been perfect. (Which is more than I can say for my old Thompson dropper - RIP).


I'm 6ft as well. I added a 75mm 16 deg stem and the fit feels perfect. I planned to swap my dropper for my carbon post. Would drop about well over 300 grams. I've used it a few times and it's pretty cool. Still might swap it out and sell it though. With stock tires tubeless I'm running 16/19 psi. I'm not sure if my scale is off. They get 31.2 stock and MBA gets 30.8. I went tubeless, SWorks carbon bar and empty Swat and I'm at 31.2. My times are slower than on my carbon Epic but for some reason I haven't ridden the Epic since I got the Stumpy!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TEvans73 said:


> Would love to see a few up-close photos (possibly measurements) of the new carbon rear stays on pro and S-works StumpJumpers&#8230; Wonder if they slimmed the width down from the 2016/17 aluminum version? My only complaint is that my calves rub sometimes at various points of travel, no big deal but It's sometimes annoying.


I tried the 2017 S-Works 6F today at the shop, and those Ohlins shocks felt smooth! I wasn't thinking about it, but when I was ogling the new carbon seatstays, _I think_ they were a little wider when looking from the top.

Fun times on my 6F the last few weeks 


Frederick Watershed by ricky d, on Flickr


Snek Yomping by ricky d, on Flickr


Practicing My Log Bump-n-Jump by ricky d, on Flickr


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I have owned mine for over a year now, and there are some things I agree with and things I dont. First the sizing: I am 6ft tall, and even with a 40mm stem, I had to slide the seat all the way forward to be in a comfortable riding position. I have ridden a couple of bikes with "more room" and had to switch back to a medium frame so that I wouldnt be so stretched out (the Pivot Switchblade is a great example).
> 
> Second, the setup: Fox doesn't make volume spacers for the rear shock in its current form, which I don't like, but the suspension is easily fixed. The bike seems to require a bit more pressure in the shocks and a slower rebound. Set the tires at 15/18psi, and you should be good to go. Suspension setup is always a personal thing, but I think they did a pretty good job for a "right out of the box" setting.
> 
> 3rd: Not sure if he got a bad one, but the Reverb dropper I have has worked flawless for the last 1000 miles. I have had to add/subtract a bit of psi depending on temperature, but other than that is has been perfect. (Which is more than I can say for my old Thompson dropper - RIP).


There is little question that the 6Fattie is short by modern standards, but for him to say that 5'9" should be the upper end of the range for large, when it was the manufacturer's recommended lower end, is a bit much. Given the tall stack, I suspect that our reviewer got caught-up a bit in the expectations game and ignored the fact that the front end of the 6Fattie is a good 3-4 cm higher than bikes of comparable reach. One may prefer a long rather than a tall riding position, and the industry certainly does these days, but his blanket advice is pretty awful.

I'm 5'10" on a medium, and while I find it a little bit short at times when I'm trying to cover ground on smooth, straightish trails, I'm not cramped, and it makes for a more playful ride than a large would over the technical terrain I prefer. Are you on a L or XL? Shortening-up a L at your size is a bit unusual, but if it makes the bike feel right for you...

I agree that the right out of the box settings were pretty good. I've run my shock on the firm side to keep me from bottoming it out, and it's done fairly well in that regard - both helping me strike the pedals a touch less and giving me enough support most of the time. I'm waiting on the EVOL can to see if I can get the best of both worlds.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I noted that the review listed a BB height of 326mm, which is about what I measured on the unloaded bike with tire pressures in the 15-16 psi range. I wonder if other plus bike manufacturers publish their BB heights with tires inflated to the maximum, as Specialized appears to do, or whether the 6 Fattie really is that much lower-riding than the competition.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

I've seen a few reviewers mention that there's a screen/cage in the downtube to prevent items from falling into the bottom bracket area. Mine doesn't have anything in there and I can't find any pics of the internals online.

Is mine missing something?


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Hakka said:


> I've seen a few reviewers mention that there's a screen/cage in the downtube to prevent items from falling into the bottom bracket area. Mine doesn't have anything in there and I can't find any pics of the internals online.
> 
> Is mine missing something?


You are, but I can never get mine to fit right


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## Guest (Sep 18, 2016)

^looks scary down there.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Anyone find a good floor pump for our 27.5 plus tires? Most have gauges that are useless since we never put more than 20psi in the tires, I checked fat bike pumps and they only go up to 15psi.
I’m thinking a pump with an analog gauge that maxes out at 35psi that way reading pressures between 16 and 17 psi will be much easier and accurate.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Topeak Joe Blow Fat Pump


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Hakka said:


> I've seen a few reviewers mention that there's a screen/cage in the downtube to prevent items from falling into the bottom bracket area. Mine doesn't have anything in there and I can't find any pics of the internals online.
> 
> Is mine missing something?
> 
> View attachment 1095056


I saw two 6fatties brand new in the shop that didn't have them either.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

prj71 said:


> Topeak Joe Blow Fat Pump


Thanks! Didn't see they had a 30psi version...


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I saw two 6fatties brand new in the shop that didn't have them either.


It really doesn't fit well and unless you have very short fingers it's not needed.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Hakka said:


> I've seen a few reviewers mention that there's a screen/cage in the downtube to prevent items from falling into the bottom bracket area. Mine doesn't have anything in there and I can't find any pics of the internals online.
> 
> Is mine missing something?
> 
> View attachment 1095056


Can you tell if that's a sticker they put inside the new 2017 downtube SWAT box or is it painted? Just curious...


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

TEvans73 said:


> Can you tell if that's a sticker they put inside the new 2017 downtube SWAT box or is it painted? Just curious...


I have a plastic screen type thing in the bottom of the Swat cave.

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I'm ordering a Wolf Tooth Elliptical for my 6fattie. Do I need the 6mm offset for the GX crank? 

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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

TEvans73 said:


> Can you tell if that's a sticker they put inside the new 2017 downtube SWAT box or is it painted? Just curious...


Its painted (i think).


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## SCRocklobster (Sep 12, 2016)

*Tire gauge for the 6f*

I have a pugsley and SJ6F and so does my wife. We have used regular electric tire pumps and then I dial in the pressure with this gauge. Extremely accurate. Has an air bleed valve. Works great


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Flash said:


> I have a plastic screen type thing in the bottom of the Swat cave.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I ditched the plastic SWAT screen a while back and I am using a very dense tire applicator sponge stuffed down in there. Much quieter and doesn't move around. I posted this a while back but can 't find what page I put it on.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Thought I would share some riding love. Had a chance to get my son on a 6 Fattie this weekend to see how he liked it compared to his Stumpy Evo he normally rides.








After our lap in which he absoutly destroyed me. He loved the bike and wants to switch to a fattie









S-Works and an Expert









Great shot of all the Fatties including a Pivot Switchblade.

Video of the said ride


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

darkhorse13 said:


> I ditched the plastic SWAT screen a while back and I am using a very dense tire applicator sponge stuffed down in there. Much quieter and doesn't move around. I posted this a while back but can 't find what page I put it on.


I don't have the screen on my 17 6fattie Comp carbon either, but that foam looks like a good idea.


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

The foam looks like a good idea, i'll go with that. Thanks.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Hakka said:


> The foam looks like a good idea, i'll go with that. Thanks.


Here's the link:

VRT Super Block Tire Dressing Applicator | Tire Dressing

One block should get you 2 applications unless you want to stuff the entire thing in there (which is fine). You can play with how much space you want to take up. Again this is a very dense and well constructed foam that holds up to the harshness of tire dressings and chemicals. It will not move or compress further if you really pack it in there nicely. It's a set it and forget thing. I think I measured grams and the foam vs the SWAT screen are both 5g... wash. Yeah, i have issues like the rest of you 

John


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Lol...since we're on the subject of foam. Does anyone know where to get adhesive foam that have square blocks on them? You see them on the downtubes of DH bikes and on the bottom of fenders. It's used to keep the mud from sticking to the frame/fenders.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

*29er rims and tires for Norcal winter*

Just a follow-up to my own post.

Over the weekend I rode the 6Fattie with 29er rims on just to test the ride. It was good. However it was no way near as good as with the 27.5x3.0 configuration on the often Sandy conditions we ride through.

Definitely it is a different bike with the 29er rims on.

I look forward to riding in some occasionally wet winter conditions this way - the kind that mean mud and big slick puddles - on the 6Fattie.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Quick little video riding some local trails. No wider rims, no fancy suspension parts, just enjoying the bike!!! :eekster:


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Lighting setup with battery in the SWAT box and cable through the spare routing hole:


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## SworksDan (Nov 29, 2011)

^^ Now that is pretty damn clever..


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Hakka said:


> Lighting setup with battery in the SWAT box and cable through the spare routing hole:


Nice! I thought about doing this as well. Did you just splice an extension cord to go through the hole so that you could take out the battery easily?


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Drevil said:


> Did you just splice an extension cord to go through the hole so that you could take out the battery easily?


Yep, the standard extension cable is about 2 inches too short so I cut 2 extension cables to get the extra length. The battery has to sit forward of the swat door for it to close. I can still fit the 2 swat bags in there with my tube, pump and spares.


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2016)

Hakka said:


> Yep, the standard extension cable is about 2 inches too short so I cut 2 extension cables to get the extra length. The battery has to sit forward of the swat door for it to close. I can still fit the 2 swat bags in there with my tube, pump and spares.


outfarkinstanding!!!


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Did you cut off the plug and rewire?


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Did you cut off the plug and rewire?


Yep.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

nvphatty said:


> outfarkinstanding!!!


I concur with this nonsensicalness! This would be a great way to splice in an external GoPro battery pack too!

So simple, yet never even crossed my mind to use the "extra" headtube port.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Hakka said:


> Yep, the standard extension cable is about 2 inches too short so I cut 2 extension cables to get the extra length. The battery has to sit forward of the swat door for it to close. I can still fit the 2 swat bags in there with my tube, pump and spares.


Great idea! Do you have a way of easily disconnecting the battery/cable to remove from the SWAT box and internal routing? Or is it pretty much there until you decide to cut the cable again?


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

bad andy said:


> Great idea! Do you have a way of easily disconnecting the battery/cable to remove from the SWAT box and internal routing? Or is it pretty much there until you decide to cut the cable again?


The battery is easily removed but the extension cable would need to be cut.


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2016)

darkhorse13 said:


> I concur with this nonsensicalness! This would be a great way to splice in an external GoPro battery pack too!
> 
> So simple, yet never even crossed my mind to use the "extra" headtube port.


one must possess nonsensicalness in order to achieve such..


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

OK. Now I kinda wish I had the Comp Carbon. Nice work.

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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

nvphatty said:


> one must possess nonsensicalness in order to achieve such..


We will never have a SRAM front derailleur, this is now our auxiliary port, Let the innovation begin!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TEvans73 said:


> We will never have a SRAM front derailleur, this is now our auxiliary port, Let the innovation begin!


Compressed air, water bladder, thumb button, a bit of hose... SQUIRT GUN!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Had to skip my ride tonight, but was pleasantly surprised to find my EVOL can waiting for me. Quick question for those who have pulled the SJ shocks off before. I obviously need to remove the wishbone shock yoke. Just how much force is required to get the wishbone mounting bolt off the shock? It's not reverse threaded or something stupid, is it, because I pulled pretty hard on that thing and it didn't budge.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

phride said:


> Had to skip my ride tonight, but was pleasantly surprised to find my EVOL can waiting for me. Quick question for those who have pulled the SJ shocks off before. I obviously need to remove the wishbone shock yoke. Just how much force is required to get the wishbone mounting bolt off the shock? It's not reverse threaded or something stupid, is it, because I pulled pretty hard on that thing and it didn't budge.


Apparently, hard enough to bend the hex wrench slightly.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

I had to clamp the yolk in a vice and use a 5mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to get mine to break loose. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Hakka said:


> The battery is easily removed but the extension cable would need to be cut.


Hey dude, so I stole you idea and added something...

These are JST plugs, from my collection of RC parts/supplies. The female end perfectly fits through the frame's cable port (sanded the plug just a bit to make it easier to slide through) I spliced these connectors inline in an extension cable, so the cable can be easily removed when not riding with lights.

(Only 2 pics for now but can take more if interested)


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

bad andy said:


> Hey dude, so I stole you idea and added something...
> 
> These are JST plugs, from my collection of RC parts/supplies. The female end perfectly fits through the frame's cable port (sanded the plug just a bit to make it easier to slide through) I spliced these connectors inline in an extension cable, so the cable can be easily removed when not riding with lights.
> 
> (Only 2 pics for now but can take more if interested)


Too cool! I'm a novice with electrical stuff. Is this what I need to do the same? I already have a light extension cord.

https://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-20Pairs-Connector-Cable-Female/dp/B013WTV270/ref=sr_1_2


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*Inner tube in SAWT compartment?*

Hi,

Has anyone successfully packed a 650b+ innertube into the SWAT compartment?

I normally fold tubes flat, and this what the SWAT instructions say too, but that's to wide for the downtube.

If no one has, I will pony up and buy a regular 26 or 650b tube, that would work for the wheels of course, but I'd rather use the tube I have that came in the wheels.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Tjaard said:


> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone successfully packed a 650b+ innertube into the SWAT compartment?
> 
> ...


 I use a 2.3 inch tube it works just fine.

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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Tjaard said:


> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone successfully packed a 650b+ innertube into the SWAT compartment?
> 
> ...


I have a 650b+ tube in the large bag and a bunch of other stuff in there.


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

bad andy said:


> Hey dude, so I stole you idea and added something...
> 
> These are JST plugs, from my collection of RC parts/supplies. The female end perfectly fits through the frame's cable port (sanded the plug just a bit to make it easier to slide through) I spliced these connectors inline in an extension cable, so the cable can be easily removed when not riding with lights.
> 
> (Only 2 pics for now but can take more if interested)


Nice. I want to move my cables to different holes so i'll add those plugs when i do it.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Hakka said:


> I have a 650b+ tube in the large bag and a bunch of other stuff in there.


In the down tube? The actual plus sized tube(2.3-3.0)?
When I tried that, it was so wide, I really had to cram, which meant I didn't get it more than halfway in. Also couldn't get the Velcro of the wrap to close properly, since the tube was so fat.
Did you fold it lengthwise somehow maybe?


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Flash said:


> I use a 2.3 inch tube it works just fine.


Yep, That's what I'm wrote above. It's just that, after converting to tubeless, I have these two 650b x 2.3-3.0 inner tubes that I would like to use for something. Rather than tossing them in the trash brand new, then buying a new regular tube.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Tjaard said:


> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone successfully packed a 650b+ innertube into the SWAT compartment?
> 
> ...


Yes, there are instructions with the bike on how to do this nut in case you purchased used here is a step by step video

Technical Service Videos - SWAT Tube & Pump Wrap Setup and Installation on Vimeo

the 650B+ tube fits very easily in the downtube and leaves room for lots of other goodies.

*pro tip*: tie a piece of string around the rubber grab tab on the tube wrap so that you can shove the tube wrap way high up towards the headtube for more room and still be able to pull out the wrap if needed. if you push the wrap too high up the downtube it's hard to get your fingers in there to pull the rubber grab tab.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Setup the EVOL at 220 psi at a riding weight of 185. Sag was only 21% at that setting, but I gave it a quick ride on the out-my-door trails. Those trails aren't very rugged, so it wasn't the best test of what it can do. Still, it felt a bit too stiff at that setting, no small bump compliance - great pedaling platform though 😂. I'll drop 15-20 psi and try again this weekend.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Just wanted to share a video of a recent ride on my 6fattie. Bike is a lot of fun and very capable. Getting ready to order my fork rebuild kit and the EVOL can, doing a complete tear down and maintenance. No issues after almost a full year of ownership and some pretty gnarly falls and rides. Can't wait to try some new tires. Any recommendations for loose rocky/desert riding? -G


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> Setup the EVOL at 220 psi at a riding weight of 185. Sag was only 21% at that setting, but I gave it a quick ride on the out-my-door trails. Those trails aren't very rugged, so it wasn't the best test of what it can do. Still, it felt a bit too stiff at that setting, no small bump compliance - great pedaling platform though 😂. I'll drop 15-20 psi and try again this weekend.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Did you equalize the shock after you set the 220psi pressure? Also i know it's sounds dumb but did you also make sure the shock was set to the open position?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> Did you equalize the shock after you set the 220psi pressure? Also i know it's sounds dumb but did you also make sure the shock was set to the open position?


I equalized twice at lower pressures and they again at 220. I actually had it at 235 initially, and then backed-off. And I always run it open when on the trail.

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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Does that pressure sound low to you for that little sag at my weight? (It sure does to me.)

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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

My son is 135lbs and his is at 220psi, I am 220lbs and mine is at 320psi. Something doesn't sound right with your shock. Any spacers in there?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Yeah. I thought it was low. I'll bleed it and try again, maybe double check that I didn't overtighten the shock mounting bolts. 

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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

phride said:


> I equalized twice at lower pressures and they again at 220. I actually had it at 235 initially, and then backed-off. And I always run it open when on the trail.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Ok. So what's with the equalizing?

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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Tjaard said:


> In the down tube? The actual plus sized tube(2.3-3.0)?
> When I tried that, it was so wide, I really had to cram, which meant I didn't get it more than halfway in. Also couldn't get the Velcro of the wrap to close properly, since the tube was so fat.
> Did you fold it lengthwise somehow maybe?


Yep, the tube i removed when going tubeless. I folded it once more so the length stays the same but width is reduced to get the ends in the bag. Remove the valve core to make sure you get all the air out.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Flash said:


> Ok. So what's with the equalizing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


2:58


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I used that video as my reference. They noted a 17% increase in air pressure over the non-EVOL can, which would be 200 psi for me. I wonder if we somehow have differently tuned shocks, Murchman. I guess I just need more empirical evidence.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Drevil said:


> Too cool! I'm a novice with electrical stuff. Is this what I need to do the same? I already have a light extension cord.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-20Pairs-Connector-Cable-Female/dp/B013WTV270/ref=sr_1_2


Yup those are them! Add a little heat shrink tubing to wrap it all up and good to go.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> I used that video as my reference. They noted a 17% increase in air pressure over the non-EVOL can, which would be 200 psi for me. I wonder if we somehow have differently tuned shocks, Murchman. I guess I just need more empirical evidence.


When you say 21% sag what is the actually measurement?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> When you say 21% sag what is the actually measurement?


10mm of the available 47mm stroke. I dropped the pressure to 205 psi and am at 26% now, and that feels better on pavement. I'll know more when I ride it on the trails tomorrow morning.

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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Just checked my notes, I am running 30% sag 14.28mm (I get it to 14ish) 320psi.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

More 6 Fattie action


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

*Finally Rode Another Bike: Nice for Comparison*

Since June I have almost 500 miles on my 6Fattie and I still love it, though I am looking at the EVOL sleeve or switching to the Monarch for the rear shock as it isn't as smooth as I had expected. This is an issue I immediately noticed when I demoed this bike before I bought it. Tried open/close/trail mode. It's definitely not bad, just not as great as it could be.

-----

I bought my dad a used Trek EX Fuel 7 from Mammoth after the high season ended. I finally got a chance to ride it and compare it with my Fattie. I still prefer my Fattie, but this was a "new" toy so some things about the Trek were exciting.

*Speed.* The Trek 7 FLIES compared to my Stumpy. I was going faster than I thought possible. I am guessing it's due to tire width. The Trek was great for speed, though the Stumpy is more enjoyable, so it's a tradeoff. The Trek felt very aggressive, which is nice for speed and challenge, but the scenery is important too.

*Steering.* Steering on the Trek felt more precise and I was able to correct faster than on the Fattie. It seems like the Stump has very long handlebars compared to other bikes, which might be the problem.

*Cornering.* Cornering was just as bad on the Trek, so clearly it's my riding style that I need to improve.

*The feel. (Cockpit?)* The position of the handlebars relative to my seat and feet felt more compact and more in control to me. The Trek seemed very nimble, whereas I call my Fattie "the Cadillac." It's big, it's roomy, but sometimes bulky.

*Traction.* Mammoth is known for pumice and soft sand. I honestly did not notice a traction difference between the narrower tires and the Fattie.

*Picking lines.* This is where the wide tires on the Fattie shine. The line doesn't really matter (within reason), it just rolls over anything. The Trek/27.5 on the other hand did pretty well, but choosing the wrong line was pretty jarring, because....

*Suspension.* OMFG. I wanted the ride to end the entire time I was in the rocks. The Trek 7's suspension was TERRIBLE. The Stumpy was in a league of its own there... and I also felt the constant bouncy-bouncy-bounce when I pedaled.

Despite these comparisons, I love the Fattie. While the Trek went faster and I felt more in control, the Fattie is more enjoyable and is definitely a smoother ride. It does its job as a trail bike very well. Once I upgrade the rear shock it will be even better. I am starting to get into more gnarlier terrain where I think extra travel is needed, so I will probably eventually look for another bike, with standard widths, but I will always keep the Fattie because it's such a fun bike!


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Just got my replacement decals from Fox. I wanted the orange kit to match my orange bike. Did one side tonight, ill do the other side tomorrow. I think this was a good idea, the colors are a perfect match.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

^^^^^^^

That looks very nice, excellent choice! Spec should have included that with all orange stumpys… like they did with my expert and the red fork decal kit?


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

It would make sense since its an option that available. No reason not to but maybe they just didn't care to. I did the other side today, it looks spot on.

On the other hand, after putting the stickers on and putting my front wheel back on, my front brake shakes/pulses like crazy! Nothing changed other than putting the new stickers on. WTF is going on, can anyone help?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

phride said:


> 10mm of the available 47mm stroke. I dropped the pressure to 205 psi and am at 26% now, and that feels better on pavement. I'll know more when I ride it on the trails tomorrow morning.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


The shock felt a good deal plusher at the lower pressure, but I was riding some hillier terrain and was inclined to use the pedal mode to make the climbing easier, as it did bob a bit. I don't do this often and forgot to flip it back to open a couple times, so I ended up doing the most demanding descents in pedal mode, too. It actually rode quite well like that, but I was having too much fun to think analytically about the shock. I'll probably raise the pressure a little more for my next outing to see if I can't find the sweet spot in open mode without damping out the shock's designed responsiveness.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

So the time has come and im ready to purchase wheels. I thought I was set on the WTB Scraper i40's but with my limited research and time, I can't say that I've seen all there is. I want a wheel that's between 35 and 40mm inner width. I would prefer to stick around the same price for aluminum wheels as the Scraper i40's which is around $130 each so obviously, im not looking for exotic names.

Any help would be appreciated, specially if you have experience with these. I want to order them tonight. My Hope hubs should be here tomorrow. I still need to buy Sapim spokes and nipples but ill do that once I know what wheels I end up buying.

Rep for help!


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

I finally got a chance to take my carbon expert out for its first ride over the weekend. 

The autosag on the monarch keeps putting me at 40% sag. I went back to the old method and set it to around 25% which feels a lot better.

With brakes not bedded in and suspension out of whack it still managed 18PRs, 10th overall, 7th overall and a KOM. I wasn't chasing strava times I was just trying to get home before it started raining.


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2016)

Hakka said:


> I finally got a chance to take my carbon expert out for its first ride over the weekend.
> 
> The autosag on the monarch keeps putting me at 40% sag. I went back to the old method and set it to around 25% which feels a lot better.
> 
> With brakes not bedded in and suspension out of whack it still managed 18PRs, 10th overall, 7th overall and a KOM. I wasn't chasing strava times I was just trying to get home before it started raining.


pretend it's lightening next time and see whats up!


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## antonio (Jan 18, 2005)

nvphatty said:


> pretend it's lightening next time and see whats up!


ha!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> So the time has come and im ready to purchase wheels. I thought I was set on the WTB Scraper i40's but with my limited research and time, I can't say that I've seen all there is. I want a wheel that's between 35 and 40mm inner width. I would prefer to stick around the same price for aluminum wheels as the Scraper i40's which is around $130 each so obviously, im not looking for exotic names.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated, specially if you have experience with these. I want to order them tonight. My Hope hubs should be here tomorrow. I still need to buy Sapim spokes and nipples but ill do that once I know what wheels I end up buying.
> 
> Rep for help!


Take a look at the Easton Arc 40s and the DT Swiss XM551. I can't say how they compare to the a Scraper i40 other than being the same size, but folks have been happy with them, and they are a little bit cheaper.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

M3Roc said:


> So the time has come and im ready to purchase wheels. I thought I was set on the WTB Scraper i40's but with my limited research and time, I can't say that I've seen all there is. I want a wheel that's between 35 and 40mm inner width. I would prefer to stick around the same price for aluminum wheels as the Scraper i40's which is around $130 each so obviously, im not looking for exotic names.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated, specially if you have experience with these. I want to order them tonight. My Hope hubs should be here tomorrow. I still need to buy Sapim spokes and nipples but ill do that once I know what wheels I end up buying.
> 
> Rep for help!


https://sun-ringle.com/mtb/rims/duroc-4050/


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

I joined the 6fattie club a couple of weeks ago, and I love the bike. This bike provides a huge sense of confidence bombing over rough terrain. I definitely don't have it dialed in yet with respect to tire pressure, but have felt some squishyness in hard corners that I am not used to feeling. It doesn't really bother me much, and everything else about the handling is incredible...this bike just eats up rough trails.

Maybe the tire "give" in hard corners is something to get accustomed to, or maybe I don't have the tire pressure right, Or maybe we all need wider rims.....

On that subject:
So between WTB Scrapers, Easton Arc 40s, DT Swiss XM551, Sun Ringle Duroc 40s...
It seems to me that you could upgrade to a 40mm rim without too much capital outlay.
At least as opposed to buying a $1500 set of wheels.

This is assuming you can re-use the Hubs that came with the bike. Am I missing something?


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Thanks for the wheel suggestions guys! I ended up ordering the Scraper i45's. My Hope hubs showed up today, im such a whore when it comes to anodized aluminum...

Hopefully the wheels will be here by end of week. I also plan to order some Sapim spokes and nipps tonight as well.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

I've had my S-Works FSR 6F for around 6 weeks now and loving it.. Couple of things I've done.

Shortened stem to a Raceface 50mm
Replaced barrs for Renthal 40mm high rise
Added single offset bushing
Replaced Fox Air Assy and increased travel in front to 160mm
Removed 3.0 tyres and replaced with Schwalbe NN in front and RR in rear (both tubeless)

Bike is now super light and great for jumps/drops! I found the 3.0 a little too big, the Schwalbe's are great! Beware, don't use Liteskin without tubes - I destroyed one on a medium drop...go for Snakeskin. For those wanting to be a little more hardcore Enduro, it looks like the new Maxxis Minion 2.8 could be a great option for front grip.?

The one thing I'm finding tricky which I think is a problem out of the box and I've made even worse by lower the bottom bracket even further is pedal strike, it's prolific and I'm still working to get it sorted!!

Loving it though..

Oh...removing the 12 stickers off the rims gives a 60g weight saving!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Dman7777 said:


> I joined the 6fattie club a couple of weeks ago, and I love the bike. This bike provides a huge sense of confidence bombing over rough terrain. I definitely don't have it dialed in yet with respect to tire pressure, but have felt some squishyness in hard corners that I am not used to feeling. It doesn't really bother me much, and everything else about the handling is incredible...this bike just eats up rough trails.
> 
> Maybe the tire "give" in hard corners is something to get accustomed to, or maybe I don't have the tire pressure right, Or maybe we all need wider rims.....
> 
> ...


The stock Hi-Lo disc (Formula) hubs don't have the best reputation, although they are better than some other hubs that have been specced by Specialized. Mine seem fine so far, low engagement aside. I'll upgrade when they start giving me trouble.

If you are happy with the hub, just be aware that the stock wheels are 24 spokes in front and 28 in back. The 24-hole pattern is not available for a lot of rims, and 28 is not universally available either.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Patu said:


> The one thing I'm finding tricky which I think is a problem out of the box and I've made even worse by lower the bottom bracket even further is pedal strike, it's prolific and I'm still working to get it sorted!!


I've been watching this bike for a while and this has been a concern of mine keeping me from pulling the trigger. I get the occasional pedal strike already on my current bike which has a higher bottom bracket...13-5/16"

FWIW I stopped at the LBS last week and physically measured the BB height on a 6fattie. It came in at 12-5/8" which is less than what the spec says on the Specialized website which is 13-1/32"


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

prj71 said:


> I've been watching this bike for a while and this has been a concern of mine keeping me from pulling the trigger. I get the occasional pedal strike already on my current bike which has a higher bottom bracket.
> 
> FWIW I stopped at the LBS last week and physically measured the BB height on a 6fattie. It came in at 12-5/8" which is less than what the spec says on the Specialized website which is 13-1/32"


Yep, you're not wrong. Before I jacked up the forks, with the single offset bushing and on the smaller 2.8" tyres I measured 12.5" to the centre of the BB and of course that's before sag!! Bear in mind the offset bushing is good for -5mm straight away..

Now I've jacked up the front 10mm, I've countered the offset bushing but with the slightly smaller tyres I'm still well inside pedal strike territory..

It seems to be a fairly common problem out there...I was looking at the Trek Enduro initally and that is the same.

The Scott doesn't seem to suffer the same and actually I would have gone that way if I hadn't got such a great deal on the Spec..


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

If it wasn't for rocks, stumps and roots on some of my local trails I don't think the lower BB would be that big of deal. That and I didn't like how the cables hung another 1" or so below the bottom bracket. Seems that would be more likely to snag some branches.

My plus bike BB height is actually higher than what's stated on the Cannondale website.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

prj71 said:


> If it wasn't for rocks, stumps and roots on some of my local trails I don't think the lower BB would be that big of deal.




If it wasn't for rocks, stumps and roots you'd probably be on tarmac..


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Patu said:


> If it wasn't for rocks, stumps and roots you'd probably be on tarmac..


Lol!!

There are a couple of excavator built flow trails in the area where the lower BB wouldn't be an issue cuz there are no rocks, stumps and roots to avoid...excavator cleared 'em all out. Most of my riding though (due to close proximity) is old school single track trails.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

That's a little lower than I've seen (12-7/8"). Did it have 2.8" tires? If it did, that sounds consistent.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

phride said:


> That's a little lower than I've seen (12-7/8"). Did it have 2.8" tires? If it did, that sounds consistent.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Stock 3.0 Specialized tires aired up to 16 lbs when I took it for a test ride around the parking lot.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I would agree that the bottom bracket seems low on the SJ. Before buying the SJ, I was ready to buy the Santa Cruz Hightower which has a high BB but also raises your COG.

My main concern and complaint is the number of pedal strikes that I get. Now I understand that this is largely due to my ride style and timing of my pedal strokes but taking that into consideration, that would mean that I can't ever peddle while im on the trails because I ride a lot of roots and rocks or "features" as some people call them. Riding over obstacles suck as large boulders, downed trees and other earthly features, I have to make sure I have enough speed to make it over and then be ready to give it that 1/4 stroke to get over if I slow down too much. Again, I acknowledge that this is largely due to my technique but it seems that the pedal strikes is an issue, even at 20% sag on the shock.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> I would agree that the bottom bracket seems low on the SJ. Before buying the SJ, I was ready to buy the Santa Cruz Hightower which has a high BB but also raises your COG.
> 
> My main concern and complaint is the number of pedal strikes that I get. Now I understand that this is largely due to my ride style and timing of my pedal strokes but taking that into consideration, that would mean that I can't ever peddle while im on the trails because I ride a lot of roots and rocks or "features" as some people call them. Riding over obstacles suck as large boulders, downed trees and other earthly features, I have to make sure I have enough speed to make it over and then be ready to give it that 1/4 stroke to get over if I slow down too much. Again, I acknowledge that this is largely due to my technique but it seems that the pedal strikes is an issue, even at 20% sag on the shock.


Yes, you can likely improve a lot, but it's a real issue. That's my preferred terrain, too, and it's best suited for a high bottom bracket - at least on the uphill.  Better technique can help, as can increased strength, since pushing a higher gear both gives you momentum and limits the number of pedal revolutions needed to clear a section, thereby giving you more options for timing your pedal strokes. Still, it's a known downside trade-off of a super-planted ride.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Any idea how much specific increase in BB height you do achieve if putting a 160mm fork up front?


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## SCRocklobster (Sep 12, 2016)

*Increase fork height to gain bb height*



bad andy said:


> Any idea how much specific increase in BB height you do achieve if putting a 160mm fork up front?


I have had a few custom bikes made and a friend is a frame builder.
anytime you increase a wheel size, taller fork or the like you change the trail of the bike and how it handles. You would have to raise both rear and front equally and it would still change the way it handles. Something to keep in mind.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

bad andy said:


> Any idea how much specific increase in BB height you do achieve if putting a 160mm fork up front?


Not a great deal my friend. The SJ 6F FSR already has 150mm up front so you'll only gain 10mm in travel but then you've got angle which reduces that and sag so you'll only end up with around 5mm (guestimate..)

Other options are to reduce your cranks by 5-10mm? Increase tyres/pressure or even better switch to 29's!! All of which negatively effect your riding potential...

The best thing would be to switch to a 170 or 180mm fork which I don't think will negatively affect geometry too much but I wouldn't know, you'd have to try it, I'd love to try a 180mm Float 36 but you can't get them in a wide axle!

Other than that you have to get tricky with your pedal strokes...not much else you can do..


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The BB would be raised by ~3mm and the front end by 7.5mm after accounting for sag. I wouldn't want this bike any slacker, however, as it has a somewhat light front-end already on the steep ups. YMMV; I do like it exactly how it is, but any taller on the front end, and I think it would be one step too much.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Nice vid, Murchman! Good to see some more tech on this thread.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I upped the travel on the stock Fox to 160mm to help the bottom bracket height and I did not like the change in handling of the bike and within a week went back to the stock 150. 

Pedal strikes happen but after 700miles or so on the bike I have pretty much adjusted to them and really enjoy the lower bottom bracket when I start going down hill and hit the corners. 

I was able to ride a Switchblade and a Mojo 3 last week on my trails and while both were great bikes neither of them felt as planted as the 6 fattie. 2.8 maxis tires were no where near 2.8 and never felt as good as the purgatories, they felt and rode just like a 2.4 tire. 

I was very happy to get back on my 6 fattie again.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Thanks for the info guys. I'm not having a hard time with BB height. A few adaptations to pedal stroke here and there but no big deal yet. Truth be told... this BB is really only ~5mm lower than my old bike. Just considering options for "upgrades"


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> I upped the travel on the stock Fox to 160mm to help the bottom bracket height and I did not like the change in handling of the bike and within a week went back to the stock 150.
> 
> Pedal strikes happen but after 700miles or so on the bike I have pretty much adjusted to them and really enjoy the lower bottom bracket when I start going down hill and hit the corners.
> 
> ...


Hmm. That switchblade was the bike that I thought looked the most interesting of the competition. It looks like you could readily fit 3.0 tires on it if you wanted. Any other thoughts on it in comparison to the 6 Fattie?


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I'm thinking about trying 3.25 tires once I get my i45's.. I don't think Specialized makes any though.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I know with all the BB height talk this will probably sound dumb but I'm going to ask anyway. I know people have swapped and ran a 29er setup on this bike but what about trying a 27.5x2.3 on the stock wheels since most people are running that width rim anyway on the 27.5 bikes. My goal is to eventually upgrade to wider rims for the plus tires but seeing if I should pick up a set of 29 wheels to try or hand on to the stock wheels and play with a 2.3 tire. Just looking for options, that's all.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Oh yeah, i'm not one to not have an opinion. 

It was 1lb heavier than a very similar 6 fattie expert and 2lbs heavier than my s-works. I love the way the DW-Link climbs it feels like the SJ with the shock locked out but yet still works when you hit a bump.

Like the Ibis the bike felt better the faster you rode it but that forced you to ride harder and more on the edge to really enjoy the bike. The SJ works well in both normal trail riding and when pushing the limit.

The frame has more holes for cables in it then I though was possible. They do this so you can configure it with any type of drivetrain you like but wow that was a lot of ports. Also cable rub where front mech would go is going to be a big issue as the tape that is there now was already getting worn.

I worry about rocks getting caught up in the linkage and the frame behind the seat post. Hard to explain but when you see it in person you can see how it could get stuck in there. I didn't get any in there but I only had the bike for a couple of days.

The bike came with the Fox transfer dropper and it had issues. I still prefer the command post over any other dropper I have tried.

Didn't notice pedal strikes but after being on the SJ for so long I pedal different now so I would have to try and pedal different to notice.

The SJ felt more stable when at high speed going downhill. My son said it best after riding the same technical section as the in video above "That Sound". He said the SJ made it easy and he didn't have to work hard to go that fast and on the Switchblade he felt he was working harder to keep that speed and wasn't as planted.

The seat stays are much narrower which was nice but tire clearance was just as good as the SJ.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

This thread has gotten really long, but I've tried searching for a part number but the one I found doesn't seem to exist (?).

I want to add the EVOL sleeve/can as my shock seems to be a little rough on small bumps, and it is something that has always bothered me. I don't think I need the Kashima coating, and the pure black will look better on my red Fattie anyway. 

Does anyone have a link or a better product code for both non Kash and Kash? Is this all I need or do I need to buy other components as well, such as spacers? (Sorry, I am really new to bike components)


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

OffTheTop said:


> This thread has gotten really long, but I've tried searching for a part number but the one I found doesn't seem to exist (?).
> 
> I want to add the EVOL sleeve/can as my shock seems to be a little rough on small bumps, and it is something that has always bothered me. I don't think I need the Kashima coating, and the pure black will look better on my red Fattie anyway.
> 
> Does anyone have a link or a better product code for both non Kash and Kash? Is this all I need or do I need to buy other components as well, such as spacers? (Sorry, I am really new to bike components)


Search the thread for "EVOL" and maybe "part" and it will show-up pretty readily. It's been posted and re-linked a couple times before, and it was easy for me to find.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Nvm, found my answer.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> Search the thread for "EVOL" and maybe "part" and it will show-up pretty readily. It's been posted and re-linked a couple times before, and it was easy for me to find.


I'll post it again for the newbies... 3rd times a charm 

Unless you want the "Kashima gold" canister look, I'd save your $30 for the non-Kashima. It's not doing anything but aesthetics. Murchman has a Kashima shaft and prefers a black canister... crap, phride is going to have a field day with that sentence


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

So anyway, I bought a Stumpie Comp on Monday. Size XL. I am not new to the plus size and am coming off a Cannondale Bad Habit, (which is for sale BTW) I put the first 8 miles on the SJ last night.

I took delivery of the BH back on 12/6/16, and logged 550 miles on it. I ride in NEPA and the crew I ride with often seeks out some of the roughest terrain locally. Moon Lake, Francis Slocum, Lackawanna State Park for those who are familiar.

Last night was my first time riding the new bike and at a place I never rode before (the tubs) which is infamous for being some of the roughest stuff around. Not the best place to spend the night sorting out a new bike but thats where the crew was headed.

I thought I'd share some back to back comparisons between the two.

CD has 120mm travel, the SJ has 150mm, IMO this has it's pluses and minuses. I think the SJ is king while descending, but the CD may have the upper hand on the baby head littered "cobblestone" roads. It's hard to explain, but in IMO I think the CD feels more planted and less "bobby" in the roughest. Of course I'll need to more miles on the SJ and play with the fork's rebound more. Because it felt while at 20% sag, if you screwed up a little, the forks would dive into an obstacle instead of over it like the CD.

Also the CD rear suspension had more of a progressive feel to it than the SJ. What I'm saying is the further in the stroke you got with the CD the harder it was to go further. While I realize they're both air springs and this is the nature of the beast, the SJ IMO lacked that quality to some degree. Perhaps it is just being used to one over the other, but I suspect it might have something to do with the pivotless chainstay on the CD ( the chainstay on the CD flexes rather than have a pivot point near the rear axle like the SJ does) and if you've ever moved the swingarm through its travel without the shock installed on the CD, the flex of the chaistay can be felt as a resistance to movement of the swingarm up.

Bottom bracket: The SJ is lower, is it alot on paper, nope. But on the trail it is considerable. I got real used to what the CD would clear, and last night I smashed the sh*t out of my pedals. (platforms) sag was set at 20%

Tires: Some people complained about the Bridgers on the CD, but I found after you scuffed em in good (~50 miles or so) they got alot better, and I liked em. Only complain with the Bridgers was with the Scraper rims, the sidewalls took a beating. Realize this beating is from rubing the sideall of the tire on rocks. Now I know I didnt give the Purgatories a chance to scuff in yet, but I think the Bridger grips better, especially under power. Maybe after 50 miles the Purgatories will be money, but for now not so much. I also realize the rim width from the CD to the SJ is different and this affects the profile of the tire.

Chassis feel: The SJ is more slack and the rear squats more than the CD. Last nights ride was essentially a trials section of trail, and there were very few flowy high speed descents, but the in the few we did, the stumpie feels more like my YZ250 than the CD did. (and the CD felt better than my hardtail) I posted an 8th overall Strava time on a downhill section I did for the first time ever and the first night on the SJ. (albeit I was chasing a local legend who owns most of the local KOMs) Cant help but do the dirt bike comparison, but you see my two wheel roots are motorized, I'm a harescramble guy at heart.

Brakes: no noticable difference, on either bike when you get on the binders, they've got enough power to lock up either wheel. Now the SJ has got bigger rotors, but I also never cooked the CD brakes.

I wouldn't say the SJ is all out better than the CD, they both have their strengths and weaknesses. It is interesting though to get a chance to check out two of the more popular B+ bikes side by side. As I get more comfortable w the SJ and ride it on the stuff I usually ride on I'll probably have a better feel for a direct comparison.

Here she is in my shop


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

What size tires and wheels are you running on the CD? I just ordered the Scraper i45's and I hate thinking that i'll beat them up. I'm more concerned about the bead lock/side lock getting damaged than the finish. I may go to a 27.5x3.25 tire to try and mitigate this.

I would agree that with my SJ, the number of pedal strikes increased a lot compared to the Hybrid I rode prior and that's with a higher BB on the SJ. This of course has a lot to do with my technique and ride style but at 20% sag, its almost impossible to pedal in/out of corners or over even minor obstacles like roots on a climb. This is a big downside so I will be looking at getting shorter pedals in the future which is not ideal.

On a separate note, regarding spokes. It would appear that I need 32x274mm spokes and 32x273mm spokes. Apparently the 273mm spokes are "special order" and cost on average .40 cents more! Can I use 274mm spokes all around? Can I grind down the 274mm spokes to 273mm? Does that 1mm matter enough to warrant that .40 cent cost increase per spoke?


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Nice one! Thanks Big Chris!

As you've noted the largest single issue is the strikes.. Not really sure what people can do about it other than upgrade the Fox fork air assy to 160mm which will give you a bit more up travel front and a bit more clearance.

The other thing I'd like to try is moving to a 170mm crank, that will give me a good 10mm+ more clearance all in with the fork upgrade which might be enough...

I'm working with it right now, I must say it's a little annoying especially riding over humps, crests or bombing a ditch, you can't peddle at all...

Anyway...gone on about this issue to death...is what it is I guess...


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Patu said:


> Nice one! Thanks Big Chris!
> 
> As you've noted the largest single issue is the strikes.. Not really sure what people can do about it other than upgrade the Fox fork air assy to 160mm which will give you a bit more up travel front and a bit more clearance.
> 
> ...


There is another option to help effectively raise the BB (discussed earlier in this thread I think) Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB. This would give you the ability to raise the crank spindle within the BB shell by a few mm (not sure how much)

They make a few versions for a few standards, would need to confirm which is compatible for your frame/cranks: Eccentric Bottom Bracket for PF30 & 24/22mm (SRAM, Truvativ) Cranks - Red


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

M3Roc said:


> What size tires and wheels are you running on the CD? I just ordered the Scraper i45's and I hate thinking that i'll beat them up. I'm more concerned about the bead lock/side lock getting damaged than the finish. I may go to a 27.5x3.25 tire to try and mitigate this.


CD Bad Habit comes equipped with 50mm width rims and 3.0 tires. Cannondale calls them Beast wheels but they are nothing more than re-labeled WTB scrapers.

Can't say I am having any problems with the bead getting damaged on my CD Bad Habit. Couple scratches here and there but no dents.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

bad andy said:


> There is another option to help effectively raise the BB (discussed earlier in this thread I think) Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB. This would give you the ability to raise the crank spindle within the BB shell by a few mm (not sure how much)
> 
> They make a few versions for a few standards, would need to confirm which is compatible for your frame/cranks: Eccentric Bottom Bracket for PF30 & 24/22mm (SRAM, Truvativ) Cranks - Red


Aha, yes I do recall somebody mentioning this when I was looking at the new Trek Enduro..

Might be worth a look!

Thanks


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

This is basically where I am now. Throwing massive money at a fork with 10mm more travel or shortening the pedals is not even remotely an option. I have to adjust my riding style and try to predict obstacles. Carrying a higher speed seems to be the key but not always ideal or possible, specially when you're climbing and need to clear four or five large roots that cut across the entire trail path.

Also, does anyone know more info on the type or model of the BB that is used on the SJ? I need to replace mine soon, its creaking like century old house. I want to get something from RaceFace possibly.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

The stock cranks are 175mm, I wonmdered if 5mm would be that noticeable especially we such high gearing...I've already gone up to a 32T on the front, perhaps knocking back to a 30T and things would be fine..

The Eccentric BB might be a good try though..

Not ideal when the bike has cost so much up front to be having to spend all this cash though...


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

My SJ came with a 1x11 setup and a 28t up front. Works really well for climbs.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Patu said:


> Nice one! Thanks Big Chris!
> 
> As you've noted the largest single issue is the strikes.. Not really sure what people can do about it other than upgrade the Fox fork air assy to 160mm which will give you a bit more up travel front and a bit more clearance.
> 
> ...


I promise you'll get used to the pedal strikes... or lack thereof as you ride more. It will take time. If you want to play with wheel/tire combos to rid pedal strikes, I'd recommend a 29x3.0 tire up front with your 27.5x3.0 in back or a 29x3.0 f / 29x2.6 r (I am referring to the POS Panaracer FBN 3.0 which is extremely undersized). While I loath this tire, it does fit on the rear of the 6fattie and helps create a 29+ full suspension rig. In 29+ form, you'll "never" pedal strike. In the "Foes Mixer" 29+/27.5+ combo, you'll reduce pedal strikes a lot, get a slacker HT angle, and experience better roll-over in the front. This bike is really fun in the hybrid form and gives you yet another bike to ride for the cost of a wheel and tire. Food for thought...

I'll measure BB height here shortly with the 29+ front and 27.5+ rear.

BB height (from center of crank to ground)
- stock = 12 7/8in
* - 29+ front & stock rear = 13 1/2in* (big gain in ground clearance vs increasing fork travel to 160mm)

John

29+/27.5+








29+ f/r








29x2.4 and stock


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

M3Roc said:


> This is basically where I am now. Throwing massive money at a fork with 10mm more travel or shortening the pedals is not even remotely an option. I have to adjust my riding style and try to predict obstacles. Carrying a higher speed seems to be the key but not always ideal or possible, specially when you're climbing and need to clear four or five large roots that cut across the entire trail path.
> 
> Also, does anyone know more info on the type or model of the BB that is used on the SJ? I need to replace mine soon, its creaking like century old house. I want to get something from RaceFace possibly.


Look at the offerings from Wheels Manufacturing. I used one of their solutions for my Specialized Fatboy. Been creak free ever since.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

M3Roc said:


> My SJ came with a 1x11 setup and a 28t up front. Works really well for climbs.


So did mine but I was getting too much speed to peddle and also never using the top gears on my rides so switched to a 32T. I actually think a 30T would be just right...for my rides anyway.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

I'm 1 x 10 (11-36) with 32T. I sometimes almost wish for 30T.


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

I'm looking at upgrading my wheels, tossing up between zelvy carbon 36mm internal with funn hubs or light bicycle 45mm internal with hope hubs. Price is roughly the same, zelvy warranty is unbeatable. Zelvy is a little lighter but its mostly in the hubs.

What are your thoughts on 36mm vs 45mm?


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

prj71 said:


> Can't say I am having any problems with the bead getting damaged on my CD Bad Habit. Couple scratches here and there but no dents.


100% agree with this
and the formula hubs were trouble free


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

From the reading I've done on others experiences, 40-45mm internal width seems to be a good point of reference. I was originally getting the i40's from WTB but ended up going with the i45's since I plan on running a tire wider than the 3" im running now. 

That being said, a lot of people still like the 35mm width but it really depends on what tire width you're planning to run. 26, 27.5, 27.5+ or 29er.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

M3Roc said:


> From the reading I've done on others experiences, 40-45mm internal width seems to be a good point of reference. I was originally getting the i40's from WTB but ended up going with the i45's since I plan on running a tire wider than the 3" im running now.
> 
> That being said, a lot of people still like the 35mm width but it really depends on what tire width you're planning to run. 26, 27.5, 27.5+ or 29er.


Not to open pandora's box, but with a 2.8-3" tire I'd say 35-40mm inner is ideal. I took a poll in an earlier thread about rim width and was surprised to see the number of votes for sub-40mm. I personally think the 29mm inner on stock rims is too narrow but many people are digging them with no issues so that's a plus... pun intended.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...red-inner-rim-width-mm-3-0-tires-1011162.html


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I'm only speaking on what I've read which is just speculation. I can only give advice on what I've used. Prior to the SJ, I had a Trek DS 8.4 Hybrid with 1.5" tires and barely 80mm of fork travel. It had no traction and being that it was a very heavy hard-tail (comparatively), it handled like crap off road.

When I bought the SJ with the 27.5+ 3.0 tires, the difference was undeniable. Traction, suspension and control suddenly meant something.

Currently, I run the tires kinda high in the front, around 20psi or less. The rear I run low, around 18 with tubes. I love tubes and I don't see myself switching to tubeless but I said that about full suspension too... 

My current setup is all stock Comp FSR 6fattie with the 29mm wheels. I would guesstimate that I've put over 100 miles on the bike the the tires are relatively "broken in". I can feel the tire roll out on sharper corners. I can't run the tires much lower because of pinch flats and I can run much higher for ride comfort.

I'm building a new set of wheels to fulfill two needs. The first was for looks. There is no good way to explain or justify this. I just want my bike to look the way I see it. The second was to experiment with ride quality with a wider rim which should push the side walls out which would allow me to run lower pressure without roll-out or pinch flats.

I'm still learning, this is my first serious mountain bike. To be honest, I bought it for the exercise but I wont deny that I love to ride and I'm always looking for new trails and exciting places to ride.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

I just installed my LB 50mm rims on Hope Pro4 hubs and took it out yesterday and could take turns faster and more aggressively and no rolling feeling.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

What wheels, spokes and nipps did you use?


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

M3Roc said:


> Currently, I run the tires kinda high in the front, around 20psi or less. The rear I run low, around 18 with tubes. I love tubes and I don't see myself switching to tubeless but I said that about full suspension too...


Go tubeless. Lighter weight and better traction. Plus the tire conforms better to trail features instead of fighting the tube.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

prj71 said:


> Go tubeless. Lighter weight and better traction. Plus the tire conforms better to trail features instead of fighting the tube.


I will likely try tubeless with the current set that's on my bike since that will be my backup set of wheels in case I destroy the new ones. I don't want to feel left out 

If I like the setup and the ride on tubeless, I will fill my new wheels with goo and never look back..


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> I will likely try tubeless with the current set that's on my bike since that will be my backup set of wheels in case I destroy the new ones. I don't want to feel left out
> 
> If I like the setup and the ride on tubeless, I will fill my new wheels with goo and never look back..


If you go tubeless, consider swapping out the stock tires. A lot of people are having trouble with sealant on those tires. I've been fortunate that my problems were solved by changing the valve stems.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Are you referring to the sidewall weeping that's common on the Specialized tires? My wheels came tubeless ready so the tape is already applied to the wheel. I would just need to get a good tubeless stem.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I went tubeless with stock rims and tires. Mine has held firm since the conversion. No weak, no leaks. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> Are you referring to the sidewall weeping that's common on the Specialized tires? My wheels came tubeless ready so the tape is already applied to the wheel. I would just need to get a good tubeless stem.


Mine were tubeless ready as well. Perhaps that's why I didn't have the sidewall leakage. I did have problems with a lot of leakage under the valve nut. Part of it was riding with too high pressure, part of it was I tightened the nut too much and part of it was the valve stem. It ended up clogging with sealant. Got it replaced and it's been great since. No major leaks just the usual new valve leaks that i hear are common

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

A proper presta stem designed for tubeless will have a thicker, softer seal from the inside. It may also help to use blue thread lock on the valve threads to secure the nut from coming loose from vibration.


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## C.A.S.H. (Jun 23, 2010)

Only two pedal strikes today. Yay me


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

C.A.S.H. said:


> Only two pedal strikes today. Yay me


None for me today!.............. Its raining


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

M3Roc said:


> None for me today!.............. Its raining


Here too. I usually don't care about some mud but I can't get my baby too dirty. The curse of owning a white bike?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

C.A.S.H. said:


> Only two pedal strikes today. Yay me


I have more foot strikes than pedal strikes and it happens maybe once or twice each ride, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. When I first demoed this bike i was having tons of pedal strikes.

The LBS built the bike with cheap plastic pedals that are really small. They are thrashed but because they are small I don't strike stuff nearly as much as with the large metal pedals on the demo bike.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## C.A.S.H. (Jun 23, 2010)

OffTheTop said:


> I have more foot strikes than pedal strikes and it happens maybe once or twice each ride, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. When I first demoed this bike i was having tons of pedal strikes.
> 
> The LBS built the bike with cheap plastic pedals that are really small. They are thrashed but because they are small I don't strike stuff nearly as much as with the large metal pedals on the demo bike.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Mine are 99% my fault. I've been trying to retrain myself on this bike. I freaking love this bike so much.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

The pedal strikes are a small trade-off for having a lower center of gravity and more stability at speed. With that being said, learning to ratchet your pedals over obstacles will be your friend. You will get used to where you can/can't pedal pretty quickly.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Has anyone changed out their shock using the aftermarket yoke? Can you link me to a thread if you know of one? I hate the fact that Specialized has to be stupid and make a proprietary part for something so universal.


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

My 2017 Stumpjumper fsr 6fattie pro carbon came in today. What tire pressure do you guys recommend?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

zebt66 said:


> My 2017 Stumpjumper fsr 6fattie pro carbon came in today. What tire pressure do you guys recommend?


I'm tubeless and 222lbs geared up. Front is 15psi and Rear is 18psi. If I know I am doing a trail ride and won't be really pushing hard I go to 12psi and 15psi for a really nice comfortable ride.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

M3Roc said:


> It may also help to use blue thread lock on the valve threads to secure the nut from coming loose from vibration.


Not a good idea in case the sealant doesn't work and you have to put in a tube. Unless you carry a pliers along to get the nut off.


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thustlewhumber said:


> The pedal strikes are a small trade-off for having a lower center of gravity and more stability at speed. With that being said, learning to ratchet your pedals over obstacles will be your friend. You will get used to where you can/can't pedal pretty quickly.


On the opposite end of the spectrum...you get a pedal strike that throws you off the bike. Which is what I am more concerned about and have almost had happen to me a couple of times.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTHYKy22QkI


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Murchman said:


> I'm tubeless and 222lbs geared up. Front is 15psi and Rear is 18psi. If I know I am doing a trail ride and won't be really pushing hard I go to 12psi and 15psi for a really nice comfortable ride.


These are my preferred pressures on both the CD Bad Habit and the SJ.

The CD BH was tubed, the SJ came from the LBS tubeless.

I'm 225-230lbs depending on the day.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I agree, I have had this happen to me. At the worst times too. It literally lifted my rear tire off the ground and moved it about 4 to 5 inches over. Its almost always been my left side but this is a very real issues that's scared the crap out of me.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The first situation could happen to anyone on a long travel bike. You hit a compression too close to a rock, and your bottom bracket is going to get quickly lower. For downhill riding, however, I'll take the low BB stability any day. The other situations are completely avoidable. You'll learn how to avoid them soon enough - through condition response if nothing else. It's the uphill chunk where the low BB can continue to stop you long after you've learned the limits of clearance, but those are low speed strikes, where it's likely to be a low consequence situation, unless perhaps you are going up-and-over a boulder, in which case, you at least won't be surprised.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

That last video, I am familiar with first hand. Getting the wind knocked out of you and then landing on a stump, kidney side down is enough to put you out of commission for the day, or week.

The only thing I've ever done to remediate pedal strikes is to hold the leading foot higher than the back foot and anticipate obstacles. This is harder to do if you're climbing and you have an obstacle that you know will slow/stop you.

We all go through it. The first one is always the most fun..


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

For those that care (maybe only Murchman), I think I found the sweet spot on my EVOL shock settings. Running it at 212 psi put me just shy of full travel when I hit the bottom of the harshest roller that I frequent, after accidentally taking a less friendly line off of it and having to launch to flat to save it. I'll bleed a couple psi to make the shock slightly more active and go from there, but I'll definitely be in the 205 to 210 psi range, at 185#. Murch, I'm not sure how you ended-up at 320psi, as the pressure change on my shock was pretty much in line with the Fox recommendations for upgrading to the EVOL. Maybe we just have different riding styles.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> For those that care (maybe only Murchman), I think I found the sweet spot on my EVOL shock settings. Running it at 212 psi put me just shy of full travel when I hit the bottom of the harshest roller that I frequent, after accidentally taking a less friendly line off of it and having to launch to flat to save it. I'll bleed a couple psi to make the shock slightly more active and go from there, but I'll definitely be in the 205 to 210 psi range, at 185#. Murch, I'm not sure how you ended-up at 320psi, as the pressure change on my shock was pretty much in line with the Fox recommendations for upgrading to the EVOL. Maybe we just have different riding styles.


Very interesting and I questioned my PSI as well and called up fox about it. They believe it's like you say a difference in riding styles. Over the years I have developed a heavy feet type of riding style that is maybe the result of me needing more spring in the back. To make things even more weird I run lighter up front 75psi currently and Fox shows I should be in the 90+psi range.

When I hit the downhill park I run a 450lb spring on a XL Santa Cruz V10 and I still bottom that sucker out and the Fox 40 is run lower psi than recommend as well.

When you set sag do you doing it standing up or sitting down, is the seat up or down?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I set sag seated with the seat up, and then standing with the pedals level, gently switching the lead pedal, then sitting down and lowering the dropper slowly, before stepping off. I was at 23% sag at 212 psi, so I'm aiming for 25% sag.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I sit on mine in full gear for about 10 seconds then stand up on the pedals and cycle the shock a few times before I sit back down with the seat down, that is when I take my sag measurement. 

For the front I do the same 10 seconds but I am standing on the pedals in the attack position, then cycles the fork, then get in attack and tag my sag measurement.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Murchman said:


> So I sit on mine in full gear for about 10 seconds then stand up on the pedals and cycle the shock a few times before I sit back down with the seat down, that is when I take my sag measurement.
> 
> For the front I do the same 10 seconds but I am standing on the pedals in the attack position, then cycles the fork, then get in attack and tag my sag measurement.


Can you define "cycle the shock/fork," please? Are you just unweighting it and then getting back on it?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Sure I bounce up and down on it a couple of times getting at least 40% travel.


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

prj71 said:


> On the opposite end of the spectrum...you get a pedal strike that throws you off the bike. Which is what I am more concerned about and have almost had happen to me a couple of times.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes. When I demoed this bike that happened several times and ended up crashing. I just assumed it was me getting used to the bike.

Most of the pedal strikes I get now just kill my momentum or just an annoyance that usually happens when I lose a bit of control or take a horrible line through rocks. I don't get nearly as many pedal strikes as people made it out to be.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

OffTheTop said:


> Yes. When I demoed this bike that happened several times and ended up crashing. I just assumed it was me getting used to the bike.
> 
> Most of the pedal strikes I get now just kill my momentum or just an annoyance that usually happens when I lose a bit of control or take a horrible line through rocks. I don't get nearly as many pedal strikes as people made it out to be.


I feel the same way, the first time I rode the bike I hit pedal in a spot where I never hit before and had that happen a few more times but not to the point that I'm upset with the rest of the bike because of it. I just adjusted and got used to it and now I usually only get one or two per ride, or less. Sure it can be annoying but once you're used to it and its in the back of your mind it becomes second nature to avoid it. Definitely not a deal breaker though.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Shouldn't really be hitting multiple threads with the same post but...

I found the factory 3" Perg's too fat so switched them out for 2.8" Schwalbe Rockets which were great and look about right also!

I wasn't quite getting the grip in the front I wanted so have fitted a Nobby Nick in the 2.8" which is decidedly narrower than the RR!

I've now ordered a 3" NN for the front and will move the 2.8" to the back...or do you guys reackon I'd be better leaving the RR in place.

The only thing with the RR is I can't run tubeless as I got the liteskin..

Opinions are welcome, thanks.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

I just fitted the NN 3.0 trailstar and pacestar combo to mine. Grip is great with the TS compound on the front. They are slightly narrower than the Bridger and Purgatory they replaced (though this may change as they wear in) but the feel a lot sturdier like proper tubeless ready tyres and certainly hold air way better than the Bridger, Purgatory and Ground Control that I've had. I check the pressures before each ride and haven't had to top these up at all before the last couple of rides. The others could lose up to 5psi in the couple of days between rides.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

mugstud said:


> I just fitted the NN 3.0 trailstar and pacestar combo to mine. Grip is great with the TS compound on the front. They are slightly narrower than the Bridger and Purgatory they replaced (though this may change as they wear in) but the feel a lot sturdier like proper tubeless ready tyres and certainly hold air way better than the Bridger, Purgatory and Ground Control that I've had. I check the pressures before each ride and haven't had to top these up at all before the last couple of rides. The others could lose up to 5psi in the couple of days between rides.


I changed my Purgs a few months ago to NN 3.0 Trail/Pacestar (front/rear). After a couple of weeks, I tore the base of one of the knobs on the Pacestar (rear) - large enough that the sealant couldn't seal it - so I took that tire off. I now run NN 3.0 Trail up front and put the Purg back on the rear. The Trail NN 3.0 has proven very durable and no leaking of the sealant at all. The Purg is now leaking on the sidewalls after a few rocky rides. Gonna try to warranty them again


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I changed my Purgs a few months ago to NN 3.0 Trail/Pacestar (front/rear). After a couple of weeks, I tore the base of one of the knobs on the Pacestar (rear) - large enough that the sealant couldn't seal it - so I took that tire off. I now run NN 3.0 Trail up front and put the Purg back on the rear. The Trail NN 3.0 has proven very durable and no leaking of the sealant at all. The Purg is now leaking on the sidewalls after a few rocky rides. Gonna try to warranty them again


I warrantied the GC, which leaked ridiculously fast, but I didn't bother with the PC. It's not unusual for tire sealant to dry up in a couple months anyways, and the leaking slows considerably after the first setup. I just bought some Orange Seal and syringe to inject it more readily and refilled the tires. There's been no leaking since then, but the sealant dries up slowly anyways, so I add a couple ounces when I can no longer feel it sloshing about in there. (I've refilled the tires once each since Spring and just added a couple ounces to the newer tire that lost a little sealant to weeping after replacing the GC in the Spring.)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Schwalbe need to hurry up with those Apex casing versions.


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

Just picked up my 2017 Stumpjumper FSR Pro Carbon 6 Fattie last week. Love it so far.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

zebt66 said:


> Just picked up my 2017 Stumpjumper FSR Pro Carbon 6 Fattie last week. Love it so far.


How do you like the Ohlin shock that comes on the Pro model?


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> How do you like the Ohlin shock that comes on the Pro model?


So far i love it, i like it better then the Fox Factory shock which was on my 2014 Stumpjumper. Ohlins has really good low and highspeed damping.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Finally was able to get through all the pages on this thread, thanks to all for adding some great info in here. As of now the only complaints I have on mine is the leaking tires, the GC more then the PC.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

SJEVO said:


> Finally was able to get through all the pages on this thread, thanks to all for adding some great info in here. As of now the only complaints I have on mine is the leaking tires, the GC more then the PC.
> View attachment 1098136


What rims are those? I have the GC on the rear and it's not leaking so wonder if it's the wheel that's causing the issue or perhaps not enough sealant?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Nash04 said:


> What rims are those? I have the GC on the rear and it's not leaking so wonder if it's the wheel that's causing the issue or perhaps not enough sealant?


There stock, the GC leaks thru the sidewall/bead and the PC leaks around the bead. The rear is probably low now that it has leaked out so much. Figure I'll do a couple more rides to have some data for the lbs and see what they want to do.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Did you just convert them to tubeless? I've heard that the stock tires that come with the SJ leak through the sidewalls as they seal up. This is suppose to be temporary as the fluid will eventually do it job. I don't know why Specialized doesn't build those tires with impervious sidewalls. These bikes come "tubeless ready" with the tape on the rim but far from it when it comes to the tires.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

SJEVO said:


> Finally was able to get through all the pages on this thread, thanks to all for adding some great info in here. As of now the only complaints I have on mine is the leaking tires, the GC more then the PC.
> View attachment 1098136


Did your bike come with the orange decals on the fork or did you do that? I had to do mine myself to match the orange, I don't know why they weren't color matched at the factory.

Welcome to the Orange bike owners club! :thumbsup:

I just finished building my wheels using orange Hope hubs, black DT spokes and Orange DT nipples. Next are the brakes. Gonna throw a little blue in there to match the anodizing on the fork.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> Did you just convert them to tubeless? I've heard that the stock tires that come with the SJ leak through the sidewalls as they seal up. This is suppose to be temporary as the fluid will eventually do it job. I don't know why Specialized doesn't build those tires with impervious sidewalls. These bikes come "tubeless ready" with the tape on the rim but far from it when it comes to the tires.


No, bike was a demo that the lbs set up tubeless right away.



M3Roc said:


> Did your bike come with the orange decals on the fork or did you do that? I had to do mine myself to match the orange, I don't know why they weren't color matched at the factory.
> 
> Welcome to the Orange bike owners club! :thumbsup:
> 
> I just finished building my wheels using orange Hope hubs, black DT spokes and Orange DT nipples. Next are the brakes. Gonna throw a little blue in there to match the anodizing on the fork.


I put them on myself, one fork decal was messed up from rubbing another bike on showroom floor, so I took that as good enough reason to buy some new. I originally got slik graphics but didn't like the darker orange or the fact that it said Fox Factory on them, so I found these on ebay. I couldn't find a matching shock decal so I bought another set and cut out the fox for that, turned out pretty good imo.

Your wheels look great, got any pics of it with them on. I was just researching the other day on how close the orange is to the mango stem I have on mine. I too am a stickler on matching. CK has mango hubs but are pricey and I'm happy w/ my pro4 on the HT. If my dealer will deal on the rovals I may go that route but for now I'm going to finish out the season on the stock ones.

I've made a few subtle changes
Twenty6 F1.2 stem
Deity BL chopped to 29"
ESI chunkys
XT brakes/Icetech rotors
Chromag Lynx saddle
Twenty6 binder
AbsoluteBlack top cap & taco
Vault flat & M540s when I want to be clipped in


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I did the same thing. My bike ('16) came with the black/grey/white sticker that matched nothing. I found a seller on ebay selling genuine oem replacement stickers and swapped them. There are some before and afters on my wheel build thread one or two pages back. The orange matches so well both on the sticker and the bike.

I've given up trying to find anodized parts to match the bike, even the front and rear Hope hubs don't match. The front is lighter for some reason and the rear looks rich and glossy. I'm ok with this as long as all the other Hope parts stay within tolerance. I plan to get Hope brakes, and disks as well.

Next year I plan to get the Yoke so I can run a factory standard shock, I want something with progressive dampening. Also, I might go full Shimano and dump SRAM. Not that I don't like SRAM but I like Shimano more. I really wanted the SRAM Eagle but its too damn expensive. I would rather have Hope's machined cassette instead with Shimano hardware.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> I did the same thing. My bike ('16) came with the black/grey/white sticker that matched nothing. I found a seller on ebay selling genuine oem replacement stickers and swapped them. There are some before and afters on my wheel build thread one or two pages back. The orange matches so well both on the sticker and the bike.
> 
> I've given up trying to find anodized parts to match the bike, even the front and rear Hope hubs don't match. The front is lighter for some reason and the rear looks rich and glossy. I'm ok with this as long as all the other Hope parts stay within tolerance. I plan to get Hope brakes, and disks as well.
> 
> Next year I plan to get the Yoke so I can run a factory standard shock, I want something with progressive dampening. Also, I might go full Shimano and dump SRAM. Not that I don't like SRAM but I like Shimano more. I really wanted the SRAM Eagle but its too damn expensive. I would rather have Hope's machined cassette instead with Shimano hardware.


Yea, mine were the same and it was probably the same ebay seller we purchased from. Sucks that the hope hubs are different shades, that pretty much made my mind up that if I go that route, I'll just do black. Some pics on the net look like they would match but other look more like a light orange.


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2016)

SJEVO said:


> Sucks that the hope hubs are different shades, that pretty much made my mind up that if I go that route, I'll just do black. Some pics on the net look like they would match but other look more like a light orange.


Paul has ano bits that i have used in the past(WHUB front orange hub) that are a deep ano color VS CK so maybe a better match.

https://paulcomp.com/


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Ill know soon. I purchased the Pro 4's in blue the first time. The rear was a rich blue with gloss look but the front hub was a light, almost teal color that looked dull. I changed my mind, couldn't get use to the blue so I sent them back in favor of orange. I got the rear but the front is on back order. Ill post up the pics when I have the front hub as well. I think Hope is the best bang for your money. Perfect machining and high quality finish minus the anodizing so far. It may be that two different types of aluminum were used for the front and rear and so they are taking to the anodizing differently.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Is that hub powder-coated/painted or anodized? It doesn't look anodized, the color is too "rich" like a layer of paint. With anodizing, you'll almost always see the machining.


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2016)

M3Roc said:


> Is that hub powder-coated/painted or anodized? It doesn't look anodized, the color is too "rich" like a layer of paint. With anodizing, you'll almost always see the machining.


its ano. depending on the machining process, alum material ano can turn out varying shades if not done in the same batch.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Oh, you where talking about the blue hubs, the ones I have on my HT match perfectly, maybe it was just a different batch. Let us know if the orange matches or not. I more want to match the stem and what I found on the net, the CK match perfectly, wish I could find a pic of a mango CK hub next to a orange hope one.


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2016)

SJEVO said:


> Oh, you where talking about the blue hubs, the ones I have on my HT match perfectly, maybe it was just a different batch. Let us know if the orange matches or not. I more want to match the stem and what I found on the net, the CK match perfectly, wish I could find a pic of a mango CK hub next to a orange hope one.


CK mango only.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Yes, I was looking at the CK hubs too, mango in color. I would like a pair but they are too rich for my blood at this point. The rear alone costs more than both my Hope Pro 4's together. Maybe some day.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

SJEVO said:


> Oh, you where talking about the blue hubs, the ones I have on my HT match perfectly, maybe it was just a different batch. Let us know if the orange matches or not. I more want to match the stem and what I found on the net, the CK match perfectly, wish I could find a pic of a mango CK hub next to a orange hope one.
> View attachment 1098213


Check out the orange MOWA stems, might be a good match.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

By the way, my stock rear hub was making a grinding noise after 3 rides so I brought the wheel to my my LBS and told me Specialized will upgrade the wheel for free..Cool!

Perhaps a Roval!


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

They are doing this because the new 2017 models come with a wider wheel than the 2016 models. This makes me a bit upset because I spent a considerable amount of money to upgrade my wheels to a proper size, something that Specialized is now acknowledging by using larger wheels. I think they are Roval.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Yeah! I installed my 50mm LB carbon wheels which are great and will keep the stock wheels as spares or might just sell them later on.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Nash04 said:


> Yeah! I installed my 50mm LB carbon wheels which are great and will keep the stock wheels as spares or might just sell them later on.


I think im going to sell my stock wheels and hardware so I can buy Shimano hardware. I'm switching over from SRAM. I like the free hub from Shimano. I think SRAM is too expensive overall. I can buy components of equal quality from Shimano and save some money too.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

M3Roc said:


> They are doing this because the new 2017 models come with a wider wheel than the 2016 models. This makes me a bit upset because I spent a considerable amount of money to upgrade my wheels to a proper size, something that Specialized is now acknowledging by using larger wheels. I think they are Roval.


I just looked at the Specialized site and it lists 29mm inner width for every model except the S-works which they have listed as 30mm inner width so I would be curious to see what the "upgraded wheels" are.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I was mistaken. I saw that the new SpLz Hardtail at my LBS had the wide 27.5x3.00 tires and it had a proper wheel on it. I don't know why the SJ still has those narrow 29mm wheels, they are way too narrow for 3.00" tires.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

M3Roc said:


> I was mistaken. I saw that the new SpLz Hardtail at my LBS had the wide 27.5x3.00 tires and it had a proper wheel on it. I don't know why the SJ still has those narrow 29mm wheels, they are way too narrow for 3.00" tires.


Yea, the Fuse all spec a 38mm wheel. I wonder how many sets of those are for sale out there?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

nvphatty said:


> CK mango only.
> 
> View attachment 1098214
> View attachment 1098215


Oh yea, that will match almost perfect but I don't know if I can put out that much $.



bad andy said:


> Check out the orange MOWA stems, might be a good match.


I don't want to change the stem, if I was to do color hubs I would want them to match to the stem.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Made some mods to the GF's 6F. Did some sticker tuning too. Replaced the stock stem and bar with a 50mm Easton Havoc and a 750mm Azonic Flow bar. Next up will be some carbon hoops. I'll probably end up moving the Zee brakes from her old bike onto the 6F.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Anyone have any recommendations for a carbon fiber bar? Around 750 or 780mm?


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> Anyone have any recommendations for a carbon fiber bar? Around 750 or 780mm?


CRC had a decent deal going on for a easton haven setup in 35.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

M3Roc said:


> Anyone have any recommendations for a carbon fiber bar? Around 750 or 780mm?


Yes, Race Face Next 35 bar and Turbine 35 stem (these are references to the diameter, not length or width of either)


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I like the RaceFace stuff, Renthal as well.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> I like the RaceFace stuff, Renthal as well.


If your looking for orange, Deity, Chromag, & Raceface have some carbon w/ that flavor included.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Just thought I'd drop the latest picture of mine..

Upgrades..

50mm Raceface Atlas stem
Renthal 40mm riser
DMR Vault Mags
Schwalbe Nobby Nicks 3.0/2.8 tubeless (although Rocket&Perg shown here)
ODI Grips
Fox Air Assy increase front to 160mm
Single front offest bushing
32T front ring


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Man that thing looks sweet. I was considering the S-Works too but with a baby on the way, I had to put away more then I spent.

Slowly, I hope to upgrade more. I took apart my suspension link to clean it up. Primarily because my shock was coming loose from the yoke so I had to tighten it. The rear hub started making a double clicking sound, not sure what it is.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

M3Roc said:


> Anyone have any recommendations for a carbon fiber bar? Around 750 or 780mm?


Syntace Vector. 
-The best engineered bars available. Strong, reliable and decent weight and flex.
-They also come in 2 sweeps and many different rises, including negative rise if you need to get your bars lower.
-Low key graphics will look fine on any bike.

I have not seen any tests with other brands coming close to the strength or quality control of Syntace. They may exist, I just haven't seen a test confirming it.

;-) no, I am not affiliated with them.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*Pedal strikes*

So for everyone suffering from excess pedal strikes I just wanted to point out that the best solution is usually shorter cranks.


It's an easy and fairly afforable mod
It doesn't change the geometry of the bike
It might help in ski-style slalom sections*
No, it won't mess up your pedaling*
It might actually help your biomechanics*
It can be combined with any of the other options*



-
-
In fast left right corners, where you are not switching your feet around, a staggered stance makes it harder to corner in one direction. The closer your feet are to being next to each other, the bettter you will be able to corner on your 'off' side
A study by Dr. Jim Martin titled "Determinants of maximal cycling power: crank length, pedaling rate and pedal speed" (Eur J Appl Physiol (2001) 84: 413-418) compared maximal sprint power among 16 trained cyclists with 120, 145, 170, 195 and 220 mm cranks. Are you ready? There was no statistical difference between the 145, 170 and 195 mm cranks. More info at cervelo.com. Others studies have found differences at the very ends of the size range, but most studies seem to agree, that in the relatively small range we are talking about here (160-180mm at the very most, more likely 175mm vs 165mm) there is no significant difference.
If you are worried about torque at (near) standstill with cranks in the dead spot, use an oval chainring. Most of them are around 10% ovality, which more than compensates for the difference in crank length, say 5.7% going from 175s to 165s.
If crank length really does matter a lot for biomechanics, then most shorter riders are on to long cranks anyway!
Let's say that Lennard Zinn's formula is correct: inseam x 0.216. Someone with a 32" inseam would be right on that sweet spot with the stock 175 mm cranks. But someone with a 30' inseam, (riding a M vs a L), would need 165mm cranks just to have the same proportion! Let alone even shorter people!
You can install shorter cranks as well as other options, ie: a slightly shorter crank, _*and*_ a taller fork.


http://www.leelikesbikes.com/shorter-cranks-for-my-stumpy-evo.html

I am 6'5". I rode 180 cranks once, a few years ago, didn't notice much difference. Rode 175mm cranks all the rest of the time. After getting to many pedal strikes on my new B+ bike, I switched to 170mm cranks recently. Did not feel a difference. I guess I'm not as sensitive a type as I thought ;-) For my inseam, 175mm>170mm results in a 2.5% worse crank length relative to my 'ideal' 21%LL crank size .

My wife is 5'7". Rode 175's a few years ago. 5 years ago, I built up a bike for her, so I put 170 cranks on it. Her new bike ('16 Stumpy expert Fattie) I put 165mm cranks on, but didn't tell her. She has not remarked on them at all.


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## polo7 (Jun 24, 2015)

zebt66 said:


> Just picked up my 2017 Stumpjumper FSR Pro Carbon 6 Fattie last week. Love it so far.


Bike looks sick. What tires are those?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

M3Roc said:


> Man that thing looks sweet. I was considering the S-Works too but with a baby on the way, I had to put away more then I spent.
> 
> Slowly, I hope to upgrade more. I took apart my suspension link to clean it up. Primarily because my shock was coming loose from the yoke so I had to tighten it. The rear hub started making a double clicking sound, not sure what it is.


Have the clicking sound from my rear hub especially going uphill and drop off the wheel at the LBS and Specialized will upgrade the wheel for me.


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## quite.right (Sep 29, 2016)

polo7 said:


> Bike looks sick. What tires are those?


Looks like Purgatory Grid+


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

The "double click" sounds like its coming from the ratchet teeth. It use to click in unison like the hub normally does as it spins without the pedals moving. Now, there is a double click, almost as though two of the small cogs were moved right next to each other.


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

polo7 said:


> Bike looks sick. What tires are those?


Thank You, those are 3.0 Purgatory Grids.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

bad andy said:


> There is another option to help effectively raise the BB (discussed earlier in this thread I think) Wheels Manufacturing eccentric BB. This would give you the ability to raise the crank spindle within the BB shell by a few mm (not sure how much)
> 
> They make a few versions for a few standards, would need to confirm which is compatible for your frame/cranks: Eccentric Bottom Bracket for PF30 & 24/22mm (SRAM, Truvativ) Cranks - Red


10mm


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Getting ready for night rides!


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

I wish I had the carbon frame for this very reason. Does anyone know of a battery that uses a water bottle mount? I have the water bottle mount that I want to use to mount a battery for a long run light. I have an extra internal channel to run the wire from the bottom bracket to the head.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

M3Roc said:


> I wish I had the carbon frame for this very reason. Does anyone know of a battery that uses a water bottle mount? I have the water bottle mount that I want to use to mount a battery for a long run light. I have an extra internal channel to run the wire from the bottom bracket to the head.


On my girlfriend's Turbo Levo, we are just putting the battery in a specialized "keg"









Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

boostenmkiv said:


> On my girlfriend's Turbo Levo, we are just putting the battery in a specialized "keg"
> 
> 
> 
> ...


LMAO at first I was like "oh cool a SRAM XX1 oil filter"... Then I was like "wtf, SRAM don't make oil filters"... Then I was like "better read the description".. LOL


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

M3Roc said:


> LMAO at first I was like "oh cool a SRAM XX1 oil filter"... Then I was like "wtf, SRAM don't make oil filters"... Then I was like "better read the description".. LOL


Hahahahahahha, I had to go back and look at the picture twice to figure out how you got SRAM XX1 LOL.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Somehow I got that from this;









Imagination is a strange thing huh.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

M3Roc said:


> Somehow I got that from this;
> 
> View attachment 1098562
> 
> ...


I see what you saw! True gear head


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

1 year report. I've had the comp for a year this month. Only changes have been Answer 20/20 bars and Richie riser stem. Done about 1000km. This is all mostly trail km's, I use my Fatty for general duties. Head set was clicky and a good greasing fixed that otherwise, has run smooth. All my downhill PR's are on this bike. Uphill is about the same as my old Norco Shinobi

Just ordered an Evol can. Pricing up the EBB and 170 cranks. About a $350 excersise and weighing up if the dollars are worth about 15mm extra height


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Tjaard said:


> Pedal strikes


Thanks, very informative. This is as I expected. When I can afford the upgrade I'm going to try dropping crank length.. Expensive change on XX1!

Cheers


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Patu said:


> Thanks, very informative. This is as I expected. When I can afford the upgrade I'm going to try dropping crank length.. Expensive change on XX1!
> 
> Cheers


Warning: many carbon cranks are only made in one length, the shorter "lengths" simply have the hole drilled further up. If this is the case, 'pedal strikes' will improve, but 'crank strikes' will be the same.


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2016)

Tjaard said:


> Warning: many carbon cranks are only made in one length, the shorter "lengths" simply have the hole drilled further up. If this is the case, 'pedal strikes' will improve, but 'crank strikes' will be the same.


note worthy assessment.:thumbsup:


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

I am trying to make up my mind on a new wheelset for my pro carbon model. I have owned Industry nine Enduro wheelset on my old 2014 Stumpjumper and I like them. Deciding between Roval carbon 6fattie, Roval sl38 Fattie and Industry nine back country 360. Anyone have experience with the sl38?


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Not sure which bottom bracket you have, but switching only the cranks can be a pretty affordable option.
If you are very tall and want lots of clearance, then it's for sure the way to go, using both the excentric BB and slightly shorter cranks. 
If you are less than 6' or so, I would keep a regular BB as it will keep your center of gravity lower with level pedals for better handing, and just get the clearance out of shorter cranks.

Twimby:
I assume you have 175mm cranks(M-XL bikes). Also assume you have fairly thin pedals.
I would first calculate your 'optimal' crank length using the 0.2 x inseam formula.(measure your inseam, don't use pants sizing).

You might find that simply using a proportional crank to your leg length gives you all the clearance you need.

Note that SRAM gxp 24mm spindles are 22mm at one end, so their BB's are not compatible with Shimano/Raceface etc 24mm spindle cranks and vice versa.

As Lee says, a millimeter is as good as a mile as far as clearance is concerned. For me, even 5 mm made a big difference. 15mm is a huge difference.

The other way to look at it is comparing bikes. Typically 'high' bikes are less than 10mm taller than 'low' bikes.

If your pedal smashing is just mildly annoying right now, then even 5mm might be all you need.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

zebt66 said:


> I am trying to make up my mind on a new wheelset for my pro carbon model. I have owned Industry nine Enduro wheelset on my old 2014 Stumpjumper and I like them. Deciding between Roval carbon 6fattie, Roval sl38 Fattie and Industry nine back country 360. Anyone have experience with the sl38?


John ( Darkhorse13) reviewed them while ago in this thread and one of the Roval threads in the wheels forum. Lots of very favorable reviews. Wish I could justify the expense.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Is my preload adjuster on backwards?


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Tjaard said:


> Not sure which bottom bracket you have, but switching only the cranks can be a pretty affordable.
> If you are very tall and want lots of clearance, then it's for sure the way to go, using both the excentric BB and slightly shorter cranks.
> If you are less than 6' or so, I would keep a regular BB as it will keep your center of gravity lower with level pedals for better handing, and just get the clearance out of shorter cranks.
> Twimby:
> ...


Disagree.
I found 5mm to make a very small difference. 15mm (170mm cranks + EBB) makes a noticeable difference. And it basically got the stumpy to an acceptable level, but I'd still love to have another 5-10mm (even better if the bike had trek/scott style mino link to raise and lower with the shock linkage).

I recently added a Scott genius lt plus bike to the stable. The additional rock clearance was immediately noticeable and greatly appreciated. I found that I was actually wincing in anticipation of rock strikes pedaling through uphill rock gardens, but the scott just rolls through, unlike the stumpy.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

majr said:


> Disagree.
> I found 5mm to make a very small difference. 15mm (170mm cranks + EBB) makes a noticeable difference. And it basically got the stumpy to an acceptable level, but I'd still love to have another 5-10mm (even better if the bike had trek/scott style mino link to raise and lower with the shock
> I recently added a Scott genius lt plus bike to the stable. The additional rock clearance was immediately noticeable and greatly appreciated. I found that I was actually wincing in anticipation of rock strikes pedaling through uphill rock gardens, but the scott just rolls through, unlike the stumpy.


Majr, what crank did you get?


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Quick random question guys. I have had my bike about 3 months now and I just swapped handlebars the other day and just happened to pull the dropper post cable out of the frame a little bit to slide it over the end of the bars and noticed that the cable is really, really shredded in about 2 inches where it passes into the frame and downtube. It is actually to the point where I can see the actual wire cable in one spot. Has anybody else had this happen? I feel like there should be a rubber or plastic grommet where the cable enters the frame (unless my bike is missing that).


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Wow. That cable looks bad! I wonder what mine is like now.

On another topic, is anyone running a Sunrace 11-46 cassette on the bike here?

I am wondering how it climbs in that low gear.

Today I saw a guy on a 2017 Stumpjumper Pro 29 with the Eagle Group. His chainring was 30t. 

The size of the chain ring is critical on an FSR bike for climbing I think. How much does a huge sprocket like a 46 or 50 affect the ride?


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

majr said:


> Even better if the bike had trek/scott style mino link to raise and lower with the shock linkage.


You could use an offset shock bushing(only on the one end but still, it would be a bit. However, that would steepen the headangle too, you might not want that. Unless you raised the front of the bike as well.



majr said:


> I recently added a Scott genius lt plus bike to the stable. The additional rock clearance was immediately noticeable and greatly appreciated.The scott just rolls through, unlike the stumpy.


You mean even compared to your 15mm 'lifted' Stumpy? That's surprising.

Stumpy BB drop is listed as 33mm, plus 25% sag that would end up with a BB around 292mm. Genius LT with 20mm drop (whichever setting that might be) and 25% sag on the same tires would end up around 300mm. So if the crank length on the Genius LT is 175mm that would put the pedal lower than your 15mm 'lifted' Stumpy. Maybe the suspension just rides that much higher(were you using the Twin Loc?).


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

phride said:


> John ( Darkhorse13) reviewed them while ago in this thread and one of the Roval threads in the wheels forum. Lots of very favorable reviews. Wish I could justify the expense.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Yes, the Roval SL38's are amazing wheels. DT Swiss hubs with 54T star ratchet engagement. I haven't had an ounce of trouble with them. The thread that phride has referenced about is here: http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...8mm-internal-width-boost-wheelset-986648.html

It should cover all your questions.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Jack Burns said:


> Wow. That cable looks bad! I wonder what mine is like now.
> 
> On another topic, is anyone running a Sunrace 11-46 cassette on the bike here?
> 
> ...


The angle of the chain relative to the pivots is the critical factor. Going from 28x42 to 30x46 only makes the vertical angle of the chain a little steeper. Because anti-squat decreases as you go to bigger cogs in the back (see the linkagedesign analysis here), using a 12-speed cassette in back could decrease the pedaling efficiency a little, but the change shouldn't be too much, especially if you go to a larger chain ring.

I can't imagine wanting a gear lower than the 28x42. I spin that when I need to tractor my way up some pretty stout climbs, but I find that it is on the low side in general. Maybe if I were climbing 1,000 feet at a time, I'd be interested in the 28x46, but I'm more likely to going to a 30T to get a better high-range gear with the GX 42-11 cassette than I am to go for a bigger pie plate in back.


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## barev (Feb 21, 2009)

Aside from my 6fattie, I own a 2016 29" stumpjumper (Aluminum).

The frame has also "eaten" away at the cabling where the cable feeds into the frame over the course of 6 months; down to the metal braiding. My bikeshop called Specialized and they warrantied the cables but I had to pay for labor.

I believe this is a factory defect (on all frames) because I checked the other SJers at the shop showed evidence of pre-mature wearing before they've even left the shop!



crfnick56 said:


> Quick random question guys. I have had my bike about 3 months now and I just swapped handlebars the other day and just happened to pull the dropper post cable out of the frame a little bit to slide it over the end of the bars and noticed that the cable is really, really shredded in about 2 inches where it passes into the frame and downtube. It is actually to the point where I can see the actual wire cable in one spot. Has anybody else had this happen? I feel like there should be a rubber or plastic grommet where the cable enters the frame (unless my bike is missing that).


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Twimby said:


> Majr, what crank did you get?


Stumpy: sram gx 170mm gxp (for the wheels mfg EBB) with wolftooth non-boost 24t steel ring
Genius lt: sram eagle x01 170mm gxp with eagle 30t non-boost ring


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Tjaard said:


> You could use an offset shock bushing(only on the one end but still, it would be a bit. However, that would steepen the headangle too, you might not want that. Unless you raised the front of the bike as well.
> 
> You mean even compared to your 15mm 'lifted' Stumpy? That's surprising.
> 
> Stumpy BB drop is listed as 33mm, plus 25% sag that would end up with a BB around 292mm. Genius LT with 20mm drop (whichever setting that might be) and 25% sag on the same tires would end up around 300mm. So if the crank length on the Genius LT is 175mm that would put the pedal lower than your 15mm 'lifted' Stumpy. Maybe the suspension just rides that much higher(were you using the Twin Loc?).


I figure the numbers based on BB height -%30 sag.
Stock stumpy: 291mm
Stock genius (assumed low position): 297mm
Both bikes get 170mm cranks for clearance and for my fit preferences.
So the stumpy with the +10mm EBB *should* sit higher by 4mm. I can assure you this is not reflected by my riding impressions.
Yes, I use the twinloc (and the 3 position on the stumpy). Yes, they make a difference. The genius has far superior ground clearance in every situation.

I considered the offset bushing, and even made a shock extension spacer for the stumpy. It worked, but I used aluminum, which was too soft. It got squished after a few rides and I took it out. Would need to be steel to hold up if I redid it.

You mentioned wheels/tires. My setup shouldn't measure too much different from original equipment stock, but.
Stumpy: i45 rims with DW 3.0
Genius lt: stock i35 rims with 2.8 DHF


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

barev said:


> Aside from my 6fattie, I own a 2016 29" stumpjumper (Aluminum).
> 
> The frame has also "eaten" away at the cabling where the cable feeds into the frame over the course of 6 months; down to the metal braiding. My bikeshop called Specialized and they warrantied the cables but I had to pay for labor.
> 
> I believe this is a factory defect (on all frames) because I checked the other SJers at the shop showed evidence of pre-mature wearing before they've even left the shop!


Was yours wearing the dropper cable and the rear derailleur cable? My bike seems to only be the dropper cable. Maybe that cable housing is a different material that's not quite as durable. Either way, I'm going to see if they can help me out at all. I already had the cable end fall off where it connects to the dropper so what else can go wrong? Lol


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

boostenmkiv said:


> Getting ready for night rides!


This is incredible thinking outside the box. Its actually one of the reasons I haven't bought a brighter light, because I don't want to deal with the battery pack.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Thanks! I really thought to myself, why has specialized not done this already!

In case anyone is interested, the parts that I used for the wires are below and I picked them up from ebay (china):

-2~6 Multicore Cable Agile Points Signal Small Power Data AUTO Core CAR Wire (fits through the frame perfectly) 
-5Pairs 2Pin IP65 Waterproof Connector 0.3mm Male & Female Black Cable 22AWG (quick to remove and has a waterproof o-ring seal)

Mike



Thustlewhumber said:


> This is incredible thinking outside the box. Its actually one of the reasons I haven't bought a brighter light, because I don't want to deal with the battery pack.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

*feeling the pressure....*

got the 6fattie expert about 1 month ago and up untill last night i had not used the stock wheels and tires (been rocking the roval carbon 29 wheels.... they are so choice!)

so i set it up tubeless with my tire pressures at 13 front & 15 rear. the wheels had been been holding 20-25 psi since i set them up. also keep in mind i weigh 173lbs and may pack is prolly another 10.

there were times on the ride it felt a little soft, but hey i'm new to plus size tires right?? i stepped off for a natural break; (#1 for those of you keeping score) and shined my headlamp on the rear wheel and there was stans all over the sidewalls. the tire was low enough that i could squeeze the tire (2 hands) near the rim and create a leak.

i pumped it up squeezing the front as a comparison, pointless i know, but when i checked back at the car both tires were reading around 8-9 lbs with the front showing a small amount of stans along the bead.
i then pumped both tires to roughly 20 psi, which is how they are sitting presently.

NOW,...i have been riding tubeless for over 10 years and have never burped a tire once.

that leads me to my question(s)

what tire pressure is everybody running and what is the weight of the rider with gear??

due to the narrow width of the stock rims and the thin sidewall of the stock tires due i need to run a bit more tire pressure to help avoid burping or rolling the tires??

anyone else had a similar experience??


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## DenverAlan (Sep 24, 2013)

mtbmatty said:


> what tire pressure is everybody running and what is the weight of the rider with gear??


I run 12psi front and 15psi rear, as recommended by my LBS. I'm about 170 lbs with camelbak. The first couple weeks my front tire was leaking air between rides, but since then it's been fine. Only needs a few pumps from my floor pump to refill. Stock wheels and tires set up with Stan's sealant by the shop.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@mtbmatty - what rims? What tires? Did you check the pressure just before the ride? Check around the valve stem as well.

12-15 psi should be fine with most plus rim-tire combos, requiring a pretty harsh hit to burp them.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I'm 225lbs, running the stock carbon rims and tires 15psi front 18psi rear. I would check to see if you have a value stem leak or the rim strips not seated properly. I have run as low as 10psi front and rear with no burping.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

levity said:


> @mtbmatty - what rims? What tires? Did you check the pressure just before the ride? Check around the valve stem as well.


Stock set up: roval traverse alloy hoops with purgatory/ground control tires. I always check air pressure before a ride, when I load the bike on the rack. In this case it was about 45 minutes before the ride. Nothing out of the ordinary....

I feel confident there are no air leaks; they were a straightforward setup, and lost very little air sitting around for a week or so before I finally put em on the bike.

I found this quite curious, and thought I was within a "normal range" for tire pressure. On my 29 wheels I run 20/22 front and rear. I'm not exactly hucking my meat on this thing either


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Come follow my journey, my wheels are almost done for my Gallardo Orange Stumpjumper! I try to post lots of pics for your pleasure. :thumbsup:

Also, I love to hear the criticism. A lot of seasoned riders here!


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I run 12/13 and around the same weight. The tyres are weepers, but hold air well. Can hear Stans still sloshing after about six months


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Twimby said:


> I run 12/13 and around the same weight. The tyres are weepers, but hold air well. Can hear Stans still sloshing after about six months


Agreed, all my non "grid" specialized tires seem to weep or foam slightly. I find I get 3-4 months and my sealant is usually dried up


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

mtbmatty said:


> what tire pressure is everybody running and what is the weight of the rider with gear??


I'm about 198 geared up and run 15 /15. I can take the front down to about 12 with no side rolling on dual Purgs. They weep a bit, and seem to lose 1-2 PSI over a couple days, but no burps.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Here is an example of the weeping. This tire has about 600miles or so on it and loses about 1-2psi every couple of days. I haven't had a chance to ride it since I cleaned it up 3 days ago so this gives you a good idea on how much it weeps.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Here is an example of the weeping. This tire has about 600miles or so on it and loses about 1-2psi every couple of days. I haven't had a chance to ride it since I cleaned it up 3 days ago so this gives you a good idea on how much it weeps.
> 
> View attachment 1099691


Those "fan" looking lines on the side of the tires, are they front the tries manufacturing, like ribs on the inside? I was going to ask if they were from scratches but those would be some perfectly timed scratches. lol

That's a really nice wheel you've got there.. Would be a shame if you gave them to me  Also, just noticed you have an S-Works bike... Would you like to list me on your will? :ihih:


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Yeah those are from the sidewalls compressing in corners and under heavy loads under the low pressures. Only time I don't get those is when I run GRID casing tires but I haven't been able to get those in the 3.0 and right now they are not supposed to be in stock at Spec until Jan.

Nope can't have my wheels, as I tell my son when you get old enough you can buy your won  As you can see in the back wheel which is his he gets the stock aluminum wheels and non-sworks bike.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Murchman said:


> Yeah those are from the sidewalls compressing in corners and under heavy loads under the low pressures. Only time I don't get those is when I run GRID casing tires but I haven't been able to get those in the 3.0 and right now they are not supposed to be in stock at Spec until Jan.
> 
> Nope can't have my wheels, as I tell my son when you get old enough you can buy your won  As you can see in the back wheel which is his he gets the stock aluminum wheels and non-sworks bike.


Assuming that you went from an aluminum setup to the carbon wheels, what is the biggest difference you've noticed immediately? Was it worth the change compared to the cost? Anything adverse or problematic?

I really like the carbon wheels made by Bontrager but idk if they are made in 27.5+ sizes.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

They are lighter, accelerate better, way more durable, and are stiffer. I have been running Carbon hoops on my bikes since 2011 and up until that point a rear wheel would only last me about a year. My carbon wheels are still working like new 5 years and 3500 miles later.

I hit a rock that bottomed out tire on the rear wheel and put a whole in the side wall on my 6 Fattie, the noise was so loud I thought the rim was toast but it didn't even leave a mark and only cost me a tire.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I've gotten warranty Purgatory Control tires about once a month since I bought the bike in March '16. Like clockwork, after a few rocky rides, my tires get all sad and weepy.

I weigh about 165#, pump my tires to ~16 PSI, have them mounted to Roval carbon 38 SL wheelset, and hit Mid-Atlantic singletrack 3-4 times a week, then rockier stuff on the weekend.

Methinks these tires were optimally designed for sunny NorCal fire road 


Weepy by ricky d, on Flickr


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Me thinks this is no bueno... I DO NOT want that sticky $hat all over my back and frame when inertia spins it off and I don't think that its acceptable to have to wipe the tires down all that time. Why is this still an issue considering that tubeless has been around for so long!?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

M3Roc said:


> Me thinks this is no bueno... I DO NOT want that sticky $hat all over my back and frame when inertia spins it off and I don't think that its acceptable to have to wipe the tires down all that time. Why is this still an issue considering that tubeless has been around for so long!?


When the Grid version of the tire is available, I will probably get them. I love Purgatories, except of course, the weeping and losing of pressure (but not enough to ruin a ride).

Although the sidewalls leak, it's not enough that I have never noticed "$hat" on my back or frame.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I have never had the sealant get on my frame or body, the worse it does is cause the tire to collect a layer of dirt on the sidewalls.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

So this may be a stoooopid question BUUUTT... Isn't the whole purpose of this white sploosh to "seal" the small holes? If it continually leaks, are we to assume that its a failed theory?


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

Some upgrades: Zelvy Carbon 41mm wheelset with Funn Fantom hubs, Thomson elite 60mm stem, renthal carbon fatbar.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

M3Roc said:


> So this may be a stoooopid question BUUUTT... Isn't the whole purpose of this white sploosh to "seal" the small holes? If it continually leaks, are we to assume that its a failed theory?


Don't confuse "weeping' with leaking. The theory behind sealant is that if a tire is leaking (Implies some amount of velocity) and the tiny rubber pieces suspended in the fluid get forced out of the hole(s), they will catch in the hole and stop it up.

The problem with The specialized tires is weeping - less of an effect of air escaping due to a puncture to the tire and more of a very, very slow - capillary action that allows moisture to weep through the sidewall.

I have been using Stans with specialized control tires for ~10 years and have NEVER suffered a puncture flat. Nor have I ever had a tire weep sealant through the sidewalls - until the 650b GC and Purg 3.0's and one Slaughter (26x2.3). This is a manufacturing defect from Specialized in more recent control casings. They either changed the fibers or the rubber compound or just went too thin on the rubber coat and now they won't support tubeless applications without weeping.

So now we have GRID casings at 200 grams heavier. I picked up a pair of those. One seems fine so far and the other has a small amount of weeping in one small patch. But I've only had them for a couple weeks and just one ride.

The GC and Purg controls didn't start weeping until After I had the bike for 6 months.

My 3.0 GC and PC tires weeped a LOT but never lost any noticeable air pressure.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Gotcha, good explanation. I understand that the tires aren't leaking but my thinking was that the sealant would eventually clog up the holes small enough to allow the tire to weep.


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

I just had mine done under specialized warranty! They fitted the new PC grid to front and rear! The old ones were weeping noticebly when parked but while riding, no problem at all! I dont check tyre pressure all the time! I just check it by squeezing the tyres before riding! I havent tried the new GC grid yet!


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

So is "grid" a new type of tire? Are they replacing the GC and Purgatories?


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

M3Roc said:


> So is "grid" a new type of tire? Are they replacing the GC and Purgatories?


Grid is basically a upgraded side wall. Offered in GC and Purgatories.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

So im buying new tires, GC and Purgs. Should I not buy them if they aren't the newer style? I will have to check what type I got yesterday. They only had one type in stock.

Edit: Just checked. I got the GC and the box says they are Grid so were good there. Gonna pickup the front tire tomorrow.

What is Bliss Ready 2?

Edit:..... Wow.... Nevermind.... LMAO!! I figured it out after saying it a few times.. 2bliss... 2 bliss.... twobliss... tube liss.... TUBELESS.... DURRRRR!:idea:ut:


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

M3Roc said:


> Edit: Just checked. I got the GC and the box says they are Grid so were good there. Gonna pickup the front tire tomorrow





MisterClean said:


> So now we have GRID casings at 200 grams heavier. I picked up a pair of those. One seems fine so far and the other has a small amount of weeping in one small patch. But I've only had them for a couple weeks and just one ride.


M3, is it a Purgatory Grid you're getting tomorrow? Mr Clean, are either/both of your Grid tires Purgatory? The reason I ask is because I let my shop know it was time for the monthly replacement () and asked if the Grid Purgatory were available aftermarket yet, and they said not until end of January...

I mean, the bike looks spiffy with a brand new pair of tires every month, but the wasted sealant and changing of the tires has become a chore. :madman: I guess I'll go through two more pairs of Purg Controls until the Grids come in January


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

The GC I have is Grid but ill have to check on the Purg's tomorrow.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Drevil said:


> M3, is it a Purgatory Grid you're getting tomorrow? Mr Clean, are either/both of your Grid tires Purgatory? The reason I ask is because I let my shop know it was time for the monthly replacement () and asked if the Grid Purgatory were available aftermarket yet, and they said not until end of January...
> 
> I mean, the bike looks spiffy with a brand new pair of tires every month, but the wasted sealant and changing of the tires has become a chore. :madman: I guess I'll go through two more pairs of Purg Controls until the Grids come in January


I found that by using Orange Seal instead of Stan's, the weeping stopped around the time the first batch dried up. I just added six ounces to the Purgs and was good to go with no weeping anymore, because the OS had coated the tire walls

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

M3Roc said:


> Assuming that you went from an aluminum setup to the carbon wheels, what is the biggest difference you've noticed immediately? Was it worth the change compared to the cost? Anything adverse or problematic?
> 
> I really like the carbon wheels made by Bontrager but idk if they are made in 27.5+ sizes.


If you are talking about the made in WI wheels, that would be the Line XXX! It only goes up to a 30mm internal width.

Bontrager makes the Line Pro 40 in 27.5+ size, in 40 mm interior width.
Made in Asia. Carbon rim with tape and nice bead shelf, Bonty hub with DT Swiss internals.

$1200 for the set, but sold out at Trek.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Drevil said:


> Mr Clean, are either/both of your Grid tires Purgatory? The reason I ask is because I let my shop know it was time for the monthly replacement () and asked if the Grid Purgatory were available aftermarket yet, and they said not until end of January...
> 
> I mean, the bike looks spiffy with a brand new pair of tires every month, but the wasted sealant and changing of the tires has become a chore. :madman: I guess I'll go through two more pairs of Purg Controls until the Grids come in January


The Purg Grids are out. I suppose they went out of stock super-quickly. My LBS who carries everything did not have them, but I called a Specialized Concept store 20 miles away and they did.

Exhibit 1:


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

*Weepy controls*

Here are a few pics of the weepy controls:


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I have had the 6Fattie for a year and all the the tires weep. I just ignore them and after about a month it seems to stop. I check tire pressure before each ride and really they seem not to lose any more air than other tires. I am actually thinking of stock piling the old purgs so I do not have to pay the weight penalty of the grid tires in the future.

Have fun!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Just reporting, no weeping on a pair of Nobby Nics and Rocket Ron I'm running.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I have had my bike since July and it just started weeping day or two after I ordered a set of Maxxis Rekon+/DHF+ tires. I just figured it was the stock tires crying because they knew their time was limited.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

*This is a Stick up 🔫*

Picked up this little beauty yesterday am. It was literally as long as my arm. I had my 29er wheels in at the time....


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

*Is the SWAT compartment hatch Water Tight???*

Rain in the forecast got me thinking....

How water right is that compartment in the down tube?

Does anyone here have any experience?

I wonder how it does in a real downpour, and what happens in happens the case that, heaven forbid, you dump the bike in a deep stream?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

I just rode in a downpour and it stayed dry. Further testing yet to come. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Have decided to black out the S-Works Stumpy...

...also upgraded to a Fox Float 36 with custom gold decals...


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

I have a comp 6 fattie. The orange beast. Love the fork on it but don't seem to get full travel. Is there a token in there that I should take out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Anybody looking to get rid of a set of 29er wheels? I want to try them but don't wanna pay an arm and a leg. Even just a set of stock Specialized wheels would work.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Derek200 said:


> I have a comp 6 fattie. The orange beast. Love the fork on it but don't seem to get full travel. Is there a token in there that I should take
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There are two, most have removed one. Much better


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Is it hard to remove? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Derek200 said:


> Is it hard to remove?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Five minute job. 



Just have to be careful not to burr the nut as there is not much metal to grab.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

crfnick56 said:


> Anybody looking to get rid of a set of 29er wheels? I want to try them but don't wanna pay an arm and a leg. Even just a set of stock Specialized wheels would work.


You might have a hard time finding used 29er wheels with boost hubs!

tapatalk'd from something mobile...


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## MHCBH (Jan 9, 2009)

I just bought a Carbon Comp after demo'ing one last week in Moab. Rode the Whole Enchilada and one thing I noticed was my lack of pedal strikes compared to what I usually notice on my other bike, so it was interesting to start reading about how low Spesh BB was (because I thought clearance was actually better on the bike I demo'd!). I test rode the Trek Fuel EX 27.5 plus and almost immediately noticed pedal strikes. BB height on the Fuel is 325mm (compared to 331mm on Spesh) but Trek has the Mino-link thing where I believe they say you can adjust BB by up to 10mm. I'm planning on eventually changing out my 175mm cranks on my Stumpy to 170mm (which is probably closer that what I need anyway) and I figure if I notice an issue with pedal strikes, the shorter cranks will buy me another 5mm, right?


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

So my wheels/ tires have been sitting at 20psi since I pumped them up Tuesday night. 
Keep in mind I'm around 185 lbs geared up and I ran the tires 13front 15 rear and was seeping a fair amount of stans on a 75 minute ride. Pumped rear tire on the ride and both tires were sub 10psi when I checked them directly after the ride.

Tubeless setup:

Stock alloy roval 29mm inside width running tubeless purgatory/ ground control non grid tires







If I squeeze the tire just above the rim (as shown with 1 hand) I can get a bit of sealant to fizzle out.

I can see why I was losing air during my ride the other night. if I'm able to squeeze air out by hand there is surely more stress under riding conditions.

I want to ride these wheels again, but I'm feeling apprehensive about it. 
I guess next ride I will try and run them a bit higher psi and check the pressure regularly during the ride. 
Hopefully this was just a fluke, but it seems quite odd.


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mtbmatty said:


> So my wheels/ tires have been sitting at 20psi since I pumped them up Tuesday night.
> Keep in mind I'm around 185 lbs geared up and I ran the tires 13front 15 rear and was seeping a fair amount of stans on a 75 minute ride. Pumped rear tire on the ride and both tires were sub 10psi when I checked them directly after the ride.
> 
> Tubeless setup:
> ...


If you can squeeze a tire and get sealant and air out the side, then I would think the bead isn't seated well.

Most of my good tubeless rims grab the bead so tight I can barely get them off with no air in the tire at all.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

tfinator said:


> If you can squeeze a tire and get sealant and air out the side, then I would think the bead isn't seated well.
> 
> Most of my good tubeless rims grab the bead so tight I can barely get them off with no air in the tire at all.


That's a theory.

I don't wanna sound like every other jabroni on the interwebs, but this isn't my 1st rodeo setting up tubeless wheels. I'm not sure what I could do differently, but would be open to tips and suggestions.

I initially beaded them with a compressor to about 35psi. I checked the thin rubber line on the tire (right above the rim) and it was dead even all the way around. It's worth noting that the distance of said line is the exact same distance on my 29 wheelset.
I then dropped the pressure to 25psi, and they held pressure for about a week, before I lowered the pressure again before a ride.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Twimby said:


> Five minute job.
> 
> 
> 
> Just have to be careful not to burr the nut as there is not much metal to grab.


Why did you post this link since it has nothing to do with the question that he ask!?!


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

rpitz said:


> You might have a hard time finding used 29er wheels with boost hubs!
> 
> tapatalk'd from something mobile...


I was hoping for someone that upgraded wheels on a Stumpy or even the newer Trek are boost hubs I believe.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

crfnick56 said:


> I was hoping for someone that upgraded wheels on a Stumpy or even the newer Trek are boost hubs I believe.


I see your point. But the non-fat Stumpys don't come with boost hubs - at least my 2016 comp model I got in July 2015 didn't...

tapatalk'd from something mobile...


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Derek200 said:


> I have a comp 6 fattie. The orange beast. Love the fork on it but don't seem to get full travel. Is there a token in there that I should take out?


Derek - here's a thread that discusses removing/ading spacers (aka tokens) on the new Fox fork:

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...ir-spring-spacers-stumpy-6fattie-1011234.html


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

rpitz said:


> I see your point. But the non-fat Stumpys don't come with boost hubs - at least my 2016 comp model I got in July 2015 didn't...
> 
> tapatalk'd from something mobile...


All the current stumpy 29ers have boost hubs, not sure about the older ones.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

tfinator said:


> If you can squeeze a tire and get sealant and air out the side, then I would think the bead isn't seated well.
> 
> Most of my good tubeless rims grab the bead so tight I can barely get them off with no air in the tire at all.


This. Pump the tires up to 30 or 35 (whichever is the max) and listen for the bead to pop into place. Rotate them a few times upright and with each side up and let them sit over night. You should have a good seal in the morning, provided you haven't lost too much sealant.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks for the link levity. Am gonna play with it. Limited riding next couple weeks as I am focused on upcoming jiu jitsu tournament. But this has been bugging me for a while! Need a wrench for the top cap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hakka (Jul 7, 2008)

I just switched from purgatory grids to ground control controls and noticed that the gc has a much more rounded profile than the purg. Does anyone know if the ground control grid has the same rounded profile? Just trying to work out if the rounded profile is related to the different casings or the different tread.

Not sure how accurate it is but i've read that the control casings are being discontinued in 6fattie sizes. I know they are not as durable as the grids but i really like the lighter weight.
If the gc grid has the rounded profile i'll use them but if not i need to stock up on the gc controls.


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## Dawgz970 (Oct 15, 2016)

Need help to decide, I can get a 2016 expert carbon 6fattie for 4350, but my friends like the mojo 3 w slx build up for 4400, have anyone check mojo 3 ?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Ooooh. I am really interested in the mojo3. I sort of rode one (sidewalk only) and it seems to be a sweet bike. A little concerned on clearance but think it has a lot going for it. Dave Weagle suspension, light weight, etc. that's a tough call!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

phride said:


> This. Pump the tires up to 30 or 35 (whichever is the max) and listen for the bead to pop into place. Rotate them a few times upright and with each side up and let them sit over night. You should have a good seal in the morning, provided you haven't lost too much sealant.


 Pretty sure they snapped into place the 1st time around, but I let the air out and popped em again. Max install pressure is 35psi so I left them there.

I usually put a large Allen wrench thru the hub so I can spin the wheel while turning it on each side, then like you said holding up and down I shake it back and forth from top to bottom. I will start at and end at the valve, doing one revolution on each side.
This has always worked well.

Thanks for the replies, hopefully the second time is a charm.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Hakka said:


> All the current stumpy 29ers have boost hubs, not sure about the older ones.


2016 where all 142 except for the 6fattie. Enduro also runs the same wheel specs.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Nash04 said:


> Why did you post this link since it has nothing to do with the question that he ask!?!


Hit a wrong button. Thought I had linked th Fox one. I will sit in the interweb time out corner if you like


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Dawgz970 said:


> Need help to decide, I can get a 2016 expert carbon 6fattie for 4350, but my friends like the mojo 3 w slx build up for 4400, have anyone check mojo 3 ?


At least your choice is between two great bikes. They are quite different, however. The Mojo3 is a 27.5 frame, and the 6Fattie is a 29er, so they have different characteristics, in addition to their very different suspension designs.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Derek200 said:


> I have a comp 6 fattie. The orange beast. Love the fork on it but don't seem to get full travel. Is there a token in there that I should take out?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How did you get on? Maybe a little too much air in there or yeah, remove one spacer. I added the 160mm travel air assy and removed one spacer to get the full 160mm


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Twimby said:


> Hit a wrong button. Thought I had linked th Fox one. I will sit in the interweb time out corner if you like


LMAO! No Need just wanted to let you just in case it was a mistake.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Nash04 said:


> LMAO! No Need just wanted to let you just in case it was a mistake.


But also please go back and provide the right link, because I need to do this. Instead of gaining the true knowledge by following your link, I dreamed that I manualed and pedal-kicked my way through a massive boulder garden last night. Fun, but not particularly useful.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

phride said:


> But also please go back and provide the right link, because I need to do this. Instead of gaining the true knowledge by following your link, I dreamed that I manualed and pedal-kicked my way through a massive boulder garden last night. Fun, but not particularly useful.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


It was late, I had been riding my Fatbike in sandunes for a few hours and had a couple of quiet ones with dinner. Drinking an posting can be a bit random. Maybe Danny can come over and do it for you

This is what I meant to post 2016 32mm/34mm FLOAT Air Spring Tuning with Air Volume Spacers | Bike Help Center | FOX


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## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

I now have 3 rides on the 2017 6Fattie Pro with the Ohlins rear shock. Definitely rides higher in it's travel than the '16 with the Fox shock. With the Fox I had to add 15 psi or so to the Autosag setting just to reduce pedal strikes. Still had plenty each ride. With the Ohlins I'm still running the Autosag which is right around body weight. Only 2 pedal strikes in 3 rides and one was just my fault. Shock rides real nice too.


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## TOPFLiTE1994 (Oct 16, 2016)

Looks killer, may be my next setup


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Last Saturday was a rain day ride.


SWAT door was water tight.

Other riders on SantaCruz VPP bikes got major mud caught in the rear linkage.

I was riding with 29er rims and 2.25 tires. The bike coasted freely. Loads of clearance!

After a thorough cleaning the bike performed flawlessly on a long dry ride the next day.

I like the 29er feel of the 6fattie.

I bought the wheels for the winter and as a back up set in case the anorexic looking Rovals bust. On my second ride ever on the bike last year, a spoke popped on the front wheel, diminishing my confidence in the build.

Oh, I also played with the seat post air pressure. I found that it makes a big difference to vary the air pressure in terms of speed going up and down. There is definitely a sweet spot for me. I love the Command Post and the action lever placed exactly where the front shifter used to be. It really enhances the ride and makes me feel more confident in every situation.


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## Dawgz970 (Oct 15, 2016)

Thx XT1254


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have been looking into changing to an EBB. Shipping to OZ from the US is always costly, but there is great deal on one that is 24mm, Shimano compatible EBB. The Wheels chart says it is suitable for Raceface Aeffect 24mm crank which are readily available through CRC. Just not sure if this is suitable for Boost spacing.
I see the Fatbike guys flip,the RF chain ring for a better fit

If I end up getting a Sram version, of the EBB, I can get a Boost GXP 1400 crank at a good price. Just checking if this is suitable.

Any advice appreciated. Chain line stuff still confuses me


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Twimby said:


> I have been looking into changing to an EBB. Shipping to OZ from the US is always costly, but there is great deal on one that is 24mm, Shimano compatible EBB. The Wheels chart says it is suitable for Raceface Aeffect 24mm crank which are readily available through CRC. Just not sure if this is suitable for Boost spacing.
> I see the Fatbike guys flip,the RF chain ring for a better fit
> 
> If I end up getting a Sram version, of the EBB, I can get a Boost GXP 1400 crank at a good price. Just checking if this is suitable.
> ...


I ran the EBB with a wolf tooth NON-boost chainring. The chainline is much improved. Clearance between the chain and a 3.0 Dirt Wizard on i45 rims is close, but adequate. And the chain no longer falls off the 42t cog when back pedaling. I recommend non-boost rings with this bike.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

majr said:


> I ran the EBB with a wolf tooth NON-boost chainring. The chainline is much improved. Clearance between the chain and a 3.0 Dirt Wizard on i45 rims is close, but adequate. And the chain no longer falls off the 42t cog when back pedaling. I recommend non-boost rings with this bike.


Thanks. Sat down and read up on chain line info last night. The RF runs about the same as we have now


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

On a 2016 SJ FSR 6F, I'm looking to potentially swap out the cassette so I can install a bail-out cog. I'm finding that I can grind up the hills with the 42T but having a bail out would be a nice thing and I'm not using the top end very much. 

I'm looking for part number/source for a Shimano standard hub driver (is there a thing) and will it fit the stock wheels on the 6F Comp since most of the after-market cogs with removable cogs won't work with the SRAM XD driver.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@RBbldr - The easiest and least expensive way to lower your gearing is to replace the 28t chainring with a 26t ring. This will lower your gearing by 7%, equivalent to having a 45t rear cog. I've used this set up on a '16 Comp Carbon for a year and it works fine, no issues. I did have to trim the rubber chainstay protector a bit to minimize chain rubbing in the highest gear.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

RVbldr said:


> On a 2016 SJ FSR 6F, I'm looking to potentially swap out the cassette so I can install a bail-out cog. I'm finding that I can grind up the hills with the 42T but having a bail out would be a nice thing and I'm not using the top end very much.
> 
> I'm looking for part number/source for a Shimano standard hub driver (is there a thing) and will it fit the stock wheels on the 6F Comp since most of the after-market cogs with removable cogs won't work with the SRAM XD driver.


What I did was take an 11-40 XTR cassette and add the One-Up 45. I run this with a 28t or 26t front. The XTR or XT 11-40 with the One-up 45 give really nice low end spacing, 31, 35, 40, 45. When I have a long steep fireroad climb the last thing I want is really big jumps in the low gears. (Merlin has the XTR cassette on sale for $130) XTR or XT come in 11-40, just a weight savings with XTR. I am currently running the XTR cassette with everything else SRAM, works great.

Good luck on the driver as I have aftermarket wheels.

Have fun


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> What I did was take an 11-40 XTR cassette and add the One-Up 45. I run this with a 28t or 26t front. The XTR or XT 11-40 with the One-up 45 give really nice low end spacing, 31, 35, 40, 45. When I have a long steep fireroad climb the last thing I want is really big jumps in the low gears. (Merlin has the XTR cassette on sale for $130) XTR or XT come in 11-40, just a weight savings with XTR. I am currently running the XTR cassette with everything else SRAM, works great.
> 
> Good luck on the driver as I have aftermarket wheels.


Did that entail a new driver with the XTR?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

RVbldr said:


> Did that entail a new driver with the XTR?


The XTR cassette requires the Shimano driver. If you have SRAM 10-42 cassette currently you have a SRAM XD driver which is not compatible with Shimano. I have DT swiss hubs so the drivers are replaceable.


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> The XTR cassette requires the Shimano driver. If you have SRAM 10-42 cassette currently you have a SRAM XD driver which is not compatible with Shimano. I have DT swiss hubs so the drivers are replaceable.


Correct, I have the stock OEM hubs/wheels and SRAM 10-42, and wasn't sure if replacing the XD driver with a Shimano standard driver was even possible.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

Hello, I have now had the 6Fattie Comp for few months. Pedal strikes have been discussed a lot but I don´t meet them that often. Anyhow I am slightly curious to change current 175mm cranks to 170mm cranks. It might be me some other advantage together with extra 5mm clearance.

Cranks are however rather mystery for me; I have always just taken what´s bolted in the bike without making any questions.

Are these cranks suitable with the 6fattie? 
Truvativ Descendant 11-speed Crankset DM GXP 32T | Crank 1 x 11-speed Shop
What are the key factors which must be met when looking for new cranks for the 6Fattie? I guess bottom bracke type but how about the chainline? What does it mean? As a principle I look for cranks from European online-stores but buying from USA is not completely out of question.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

*Getting new cranks*

Here's what you need to check when getting new cranks:

Bottom Bracket spindle (if you want to use the existing BB):
Even with the same spindle, you might still need to use different BB spacers. (I did when I swapped the stock XO cranks for Hope cranks)

Chainring sizes:
Shimano and cheaper SRAM cranks use a fixed spider, so the smallest chainring you can install is 30t.
Most other cranks use removable spiders, so you can use a direct mount chainring, allowing you to go down to 28t or even 26t.

Chainring options: If you want to use oval chainrings, check that they are available for the crank you want.

Chainline:
These bikes use BOOST spaced chainrings/spiders. However, many people (including myself) feel that the chainline is actually a bit better using 'regular' non-boost spaced chainrings, especially if you ride in the bigger cogs a lot. SRAM direct mount rings are also available in 2 offsets,besides the boost.

Crank length:
If you want shorter cranks for clearance, make sure the arms are actually shorter. Due to the cost of carbon crank molds, many are made in one length, then drilled 'higher up' for the shorter length.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

RVbldr said:


> On a 2016 SJ FSR 6F, I'm looking to potentially swap out the cassette so I can install a bail-out cog. I'm finding that I can grind up the hills with the 42T but having a bail out would be a nice thing and I'm not using the top end very much.


If you want an bit easier gear and aren't using the top end very much, why not just get a slightly smaller chainring? It's a lot cheaper and gives you more clearance front and back.

Free hub body + XT cassette + adapter cog = way more expensive and heavier than just swapping to a 26t, with no benefit!

Current ratios are 2.80x for top gear and 0.67x for low gear.

Swapping to* 26t chainring* would give *2.60x top gear and 0.62x low gear.*

If you swap to a standard free hub, you smallest cog will be 11t.
With the stock *28t chainring* and a *11-46 cassette*, you would have *2.55x top gear and 0.61 low gear*, practically the same as a 26t chainring on the existing cassette.

The other option, depending on which SRAM cassette you have is replacing just the 42t cog with a 44. That gives you a low of 0.64x with the 28t chainring.
OneUp goes bigger with new 44-tooth XX1 replacement cog (UPDATED) - Bikerumor


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

doesn't wolftooth go up to 49t on the 11s cassettes?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

syl3 said:


> doesn't wolftooth go up to 49t on the 11s cassettes?


Only works with SRAM NX 11-42 or Shimano. Does not work with 10-42 cassettes. Either way you need the Shimano driver as the SRAM NX 11-42 goes on the Shimano driver not SRAM XD


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Tjaard said:


> If you want an bit easier gear and aren't using the top end very much, why not just get a slightly smaller chainring? It's a lot cheaper and gives you more clearance front and back.
> 
> Free hub body + XT cassette + adapter cog = way more expensive and heavier than just swapping to a 26t, with no benefit!
> 
> ...


The strange thing I found is the bike seems to pedal much nicer, smoother, with the 28t chainring than the 26t chainring. I have used both for about 6 months and you would really be surprised at the difference in how it feels. I agree that the cheapest and lightest way to go is 26t up front, but the 28t just feels nicer. No science, no facts, just my experience and I may go back to a 26 with the 11-45 for some steep long climbs.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Put the GXP spider from my XX1 crank on. The 6mm offset gives a better chainline in the 42T. No backpedal chain drop in the 42. With the 3mm stock ring, the chain would drop as soon as I backpedal. Didn't notice much difference in the 10T at the other end of the cassette. Chain clearance looks good with the 3.0 Ground Control.


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

Tjaard said:


> The other option, depending on which SRAM cassette you have is replacing just the 42t cog with a 44. That gives you a low of 0.64x with the 28t chainring.
> OneUp goes bigger with new 44-tooth XX1 replacement cog (UPDATED) - Bikerumor


I believe the stock on the bike is the Sram XG-1150 and I don't think individual cogs can be replaced - I might be wrong though.


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Only works with SRAM NX 11-42 or Shimano. Does not work with 10-42 cassettes. Either way you need the Shimano driver as the SRAM NX 11-42 goes on the Shimano driver not SRAM XD


That's what I got from WolfTooth as well. Thus the hunt for a source of the Shimano driver, and does the Shimano driver fit the stock hub. (2016 SJ FSR 6F Comp).


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

RVbldr said:


> That's what I got from WolfTooth as well. Thus the hunt for a source of the Shimano driver, and does the Shimano driver fit the stock hub. (2016 SJ FSR 6F Comp).


I would call Specialized. On their website they give a direct number. Call them. They have always been great. Pick right up and if you need a service part they will give you the part number, then tell your shop to order it. Just be warned the Shimano drivers cost about $70. You might just want to try the 26t direct mount first.


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## MHCBH (Jan 9, 2009)

RVbldr said:


> I believe the stock on the bike is the Sram XG-1150 and I don't think individual cogs can be replaced - I might be wrong though.


Yes, the stock cassette is the XG-1150 and cogs cannot be replaced. I'm looking at trying to figure out how to get a bail-out gear as well.


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## MHCBH (Jan 9, 2009)

RVbldr said:


> I believe the stock on the bike is the Sram XG-1150 and I don't think individual cogs can be replaced - I might be wrong though.


Yes, the stock cassette is the XG-1150 and I've been told that cogs cannot be replaced. I'm looking at trying to figure out how to get a bail-out gear as well.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

Tjaard said:


> Here's what you need to check when getting new cranks:
> 
> Bottom Bracket spindle (if you want to use the existing BB):
> Even with the same spindle, you might still need to use different BB spacers. (I did when I swapped the stock XO cranks for Hope cranks)
> ...


Thank you! Good points- especially about the crank arm length. I want to use the existing BB and I look for cranks with which I could use with the existing 28t direct mount chainring.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

kahilati said:


> Hello, I have now had the 6Fattie Comp for few months. Pedal strikes have been discussed a lot but I don´t meet them that often. Anyhow I am slightly curious to change current 175mm cranks to 170mm cranks. It might be me some other advantage together with extra 5mm clearance.
> 
> Cranks are however rather mystery for me; I have always just taken what´s bolted in the bike without making any questions.
> 
> ...


No. You need a BB30/PF30 crank, not a GXP if you want to use the stock BB.


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## donkeykongchamp (Feb 8, 2004)

how did you black out the bike ? looks good. is it a vinyl wrap ?


Patu said:


> Have decided to black out the S-Works Stumpy...
> 
> ...also upgraded to a Fox Float 36 with custom gold decals...
> 
> View attachment 1099954


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

donkeykongchamp said:


> how did you black out the bike ? looks good. is it a vinyl wrap ?


I ran a strip of 3M matte black vinyl film up from under the lower guard up to the bottom of the headset.

Then you can lay black Specialized stickers over the S logo and the FSR logo's on the rear stays. The only logo I am yet to deal with is the 'Stumpjumper' that's on the top tube but I'm not sure I'm bothered.

I havne't wrapped the whole thing. That would add a fair amount of unwanted weight. If I was going to cover the whole thing I'd go for Plastidip.


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## donkeykongchamp (Feb 8, 2004)

*error


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## donkeykongchamp (Feb 8, 2004)

cool. looks real good.



Patu said:


> I ran a strip of 3M matte black vinyl film up from under the lower guard up to the bottom of the headset.
> 
> Then you can lay black Specialized stickers over the S logo and the FSR logo's on the rear stays. The only logo I am yet to deal with is the 'Stumpjumper' that's on the top tube but I'm not sure I'm bothered.
> 
> I havne't wrapped the whole thing. That would add a fair amount of unwanted weight. If I was going to cover the whole thing I'd go for Plastidip.


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## Nevada 29er (Nov 12, 2007)

JillRide45 said:


> The strange thing I found is the bike seems to pedal much nicer, smoother, with the 28t chainring than the 26t chainring. I have used both for about 6 months and you would really be surprised at the difference in how it feels. I agree that the cheapest and lightest way to go is 26t up front, but the 28t just feels nicer. No science, no facts, just my experience and I may go back to a 26 with the 11-45 for some steep long climbs.


That's because a 26 tooth has less chain wrap than a 28 or 30t. Less chain wrap = less smooth and lower efficiency. I think 28t is about the smallest you want to go on front.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Nevada 29er said:


> That's because a 26 tooth has less chain wrap than a 28 or 30t. Less chain wrap = less smooth and lower efficiency. I think 28t is about the smallest you want to go on front.


I had to switch out the 28T as I was free wheeling too much on downhill runs...I could no longer generate speed at a certain point as I couldn't pedal fast enough!! I switched to a 32T.

If you want better climbing gearing I'd suggest considering changing your cassette rather than your front ring.


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## MHCBH (Jan 9, 2009)

Nevade 29er - how'd you get to the 11-45 cassette? Personally I would also prefer to make adjustments to my cassette because I feel like I would spin out way too easily.


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## Guerdonian (Sep 4, 2008)

Just mounted WTB Trailboss 3.0's due to the purgatory's weeping worse then my face when i run out of beer. I finally ripped a sidewall and threw them both out in disgust.

First ride impressions are running a higher pressure seems to be preferable on these tires.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

Guerdonian said:


> Just mounted WTB Trailboss 3.0's due to the purgatory's weeping worse then my face when i run out of beer. I finally ripped a sidewall and threw them both out in disgust.
> 
> First ride impressions are running a higher pressure seems to be preferable on these tires.
> 
> View attachment 1101863


We're going to need a review on these tires vs the Purgs. Weight, traction, rolling resistance and roll in turns. Get out and ride these puppies and give us the word!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

SPAM : Vorsprung Corset For Sale. Used 1 ride. Perfect. Will fit newer Stumjumper 6-fattie, 29er. Please pm me if interested. SAVE HUGE!


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Is there anywhere you can purchased the frame for the Stumpjumer 6fattie. I have a Fuse with upgraded brakes, wheels and gearset. Loving the bike but what to go full suspension next year. So hoping I can just by a stumpjumper frame and put all my gear on that. 
Will that work in theory?


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## Gutch (Dec 17, 2010)

gutch said:


> spam : Vorsprung corset for sale. Used 1 ride. Perfect. Will fit newer stumjumper 6-fattie, 29er. Please pm me if interested. Save huge!


sold


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So after 700+- miles my command post failed on me. The dust wiper seal pulled out and after putting back in the post it would not loner always return to the top. My local shop warrantied it and replaced it. This is my second warranty post when the other failed after a month by losing air after every ride.

My other command post on have been much more reliable so I am hoping I just have had bad luck.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Here is another tip. Went to take the cap off the shock valve and it had corroded on.
In my attempt to remove, it ripped the thread off the valve leaving nothing but valve pin exposed. When I get it fixed, metal cap will be replaced with a plastic one. I live near the coast, air is salty.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

thanks guys!!



tfinator said:


> If you can squeeze a tire and get sealant and air out the side, then I would think the bead isn't seated well.
> 
> Most of my good tubeless rims grab the bead so tight I can barely get them off with no air in the tire at all.





phride said:


> This. Pump the tires up to 30 or 35 (whichever is the max) and listen for the bead to pop into place. Rotate them a few times upright and with each side up and let them sit over night. You should have a good seal in the morning, provided you haven't lost too much sealant.


i removed the stock plastic rim strip and found the rim was damp with stans. the stock plastic strip was also creeping up the side of the rim in a few places. i cleaned up the rims and i re-taped the stock roval alloy hoops with 2 layers of gorilla tape. bought a 1" wide roll that fit perfectly. it left plenty of room for the tire to bead without interference. i rode yesterday morning with the tires around 17-18 psi. the ride was a bit firm, but my aim was to give the sealant a chance to do its thing and also have more of a positive experience than the 1st time around.

happy to say the tire pressure didn't budge on a 90 minute ride. next time i ride i will lower the pressure to a more comfortable range


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

mtbmatty said:


> thanks guys!!
> 
> i removed the stock plastic rim strip and found the rim was damp with stans. the stock plastic strip was also creeping up the side of the rim in a few places. i cleaned up the rims and i re-taped the stock roval alloy hoops with 2 layers of gorilla tape. bought a 1" wide roll that fit perfectly. it left plenty of room for the tire to bead without interference. i rode yesterday morning with the tires around 17-18 psi. the ride was a bit firm, but my aim was to give the sealant a chance to do its thing and also have more of a positive experience than the 1st time around.
> 
> happy to say the tire pressure didn't budge on a 90 minute ride. next time i ride i will lower the pressure to a more comfortable range


Sweeeeet. Sounds like your in business. Riding a tubeless set up seems to often work out the kinks, even if it's just twenty minutes in the neighborhood


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Twimby said:


> Here is another tip. Went to take the cap off the shock valve and it had corroded on.
> In my attempt to remove, it ripped the thread off the valve leaving nothing but valve pin exposed. When I get it fixed, metal cap will be replaced with a plastic one. I live near the coast, air is salty.


consider checking and greasing up some of the other nuts/bolts as a preemptive strike


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

bbunnys said:


> Is there anywhere you can purchased the frame for the Stumpjumer 6fattie. I have a Fuse with upgraded brakes, wheels and gearset. Loving the bike but what to go full suspension next year. So hoping I can just by a stumpjumper frame and put all my gear on that.
> Will that work in theory?


Don't know where you are, but in the US Specialized sells frame only on most of their bikes, ask your bike shop.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/sworks-stumpjumper-fsr-29-frame/115535
Yes, it would work, but you would need a new(taller) fork too.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

My bike had 1180 cassette stock ('16 expert) so it depends which stumpy you have.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Patu said:


> If you want better climbing gearing I'd suggest considering changing your cassette rather than your front ring.


Why?
It's the same end result, a bigger cog in back or a smaller chainring up front.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Nevada 29er said:


> That's because a 26 tooth has less chain wrap than a 28 or 30t. Less chain wrap = less smooth and lower efficiency. I think 28t is about the smallest you want to go on front.


Theoretically that's true, smaller is worse, but on a mtb, how much you'd really notice that?
Really 28t the smallest? Remember triples(9 speed?) smallest ring was a 22t. Rode those for years.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Tjaard said:


> Theoretically that's true, smaller is worse, but on a mtb, how much you'd really notice that?
> Really 28t the smallest? Remember triples(9 speed?) smallest ring was a 22t. Rode those for years.


Yep, a 22t granny was common back in the day. However, the largest rear cog was a lot smaller than on the current 40-45t plates and the cassettes were narrower resulting in a better chain line throughout the range. My experience with the 6Fattie is that a 28t ring does feel a little smoother than a 26t when crossed over to the largest rear cog. That said, I run a 26t ring up front because I need the lower gearing at times!


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

levity said:


> @RBbldr - The easiest and least expensive way to lower your gearing is to replace the 28t chainring with a 26t ring. This will lower your gearing by 7%, equivalent to having a 45t rear cog. I've used this set up on a '16 Comp Carbon for a year and it works fine, no issues. I did have to trim the rubber chainstay protector a bit to minimize chain rubbing in the highest gear.


Ended up with the Wolftooth direct mount 26t, with 6mm offset. It installed easily but it seemed like the gorillas at the shop really torqued down the crank bolt. I did a nice 13 miler today at our local Tiger Mountain (Seattle area) which includes some fairly steep logging road climbs. I didn't notice any smoothness issues and it seemed to work OK although I may need to do just a small tweak on the adjustment - it skipped our of a couple mid-range gears a couple times. No noticeable wear on the rubber guard on the chain stay either. On lengthy logging road downhills, I did run out of gearing on the 11t, but at 24+ MPH (gps) it's not so bad.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

4mos if ownership and just killed the stock hub. Dropped it off at the shop, so we'll see what they find. I've already replaced the stock hellaflush headset with a Cane Creek. Will probably need to replace bottom bracket bearings soon too. Love this bike but specialized must use some really cheap parts


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Thinking about building some 29+ carbon wheels but am wondering what's the max tire width can I use on my fattie?


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Nash04 said:


> Thinking about building some 29+ carbon wheels but am wondering what's the max tire width can I use on my fattie?


Someone just started this exact thread addressing largest wheel/tire size.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/biggest-wheel-16-stumpjumper-6fattie-1026833.html

From experience, 29x3.0 front on Fox 34 fork and 29x3.0 Panaracer FBN on rear. Chupy and Dirt Wizard 3.0's won't fit rear of 6fattie. Go look under my username for pics... i have them.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I was shocked how well my camera did filming a night ride and I thought I would share it as a 6 Fattie at night is even sweeter than the day


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

What are people setting rebound at with plus tires? 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

I will be selling my stock 2017 Stumpjumper 6fattie pro carbon wheels if anyone is interested. I am ordering Industry nine wheelset.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

zebt66 said:


> I will be selling my stock 2017 Stumpjumper 6fattie pro carbon wheels if anyone is interested. I am ordering Industry nine wheelset.


$? 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

$500 shipped have around 80 miles on them. Few weeks old.


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

zebt66 said:


> $500 shipped have around 80 miles on them. Few weeks old.


Those are the 29mm aluminum rims?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

Flash said:


> Those are the 29mm aluminum rims?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Yes with DT Swiss 350 rear Hub.


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Guys, I'm looking to replace the standard Float Shock with possibly a Float X or X2.

Anyone done this or recommend?

What I'm looking for is maximum hit potential for drops and jumps and enduro racing without compromising geometry.

Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Patu said:


> Guys, I'm looking to replace the standard Float Shock with possibly a Float X or X2.
> 
> Anyone done this or recommend?
> 
> ...


Have you done the Evol conversion fit the stock shock yet? Since doing that (for~$70), and raising the operating pressure by 50 psi, I haven't bottomed out the shock, despite running with 30% sag and no volume spacers. If not, it's worth trying.

I don't know whether the Float X can be fit to the frame. I'd check the available eye to eye and see if there is one that is close with the same stroke length to which you might affix to a Bike Yoke product to get it done. Again, I don't know if this is a thing that exists for the 6 Fattie yet, but it can't hurt to take a look. You'd need to find the shock with the right stroke length and see what Bike Yoke can do for you.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

A quick question for all of you Stumpy 6fattie owners. I recently bought a set of Roval boost 27.5 wheels. I think they came stock from the stumpjumper and have a 29mm internal width. Do those of you with this wheelset find that the 29mm rim provides adequate support for a 2.8 or 3.0 tire? 

Follow up question, do any of you with the Roval Traverse Fattie 27.5 wheelset happen to know the ERD of the rim? 

Any input would be a huge help! Thanks!


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Thanks!

Bikeyoke do a standard swapout which enables you to run any 190x50 (7.5x2) with a 12.7mm eye. The Float X remote comes in this size so could be a good option especially as I'd realy like a remote..

I haven't run the Evol conversion but I was considering it, I just wonder if I'm best to put the cash towards a new shock instead?


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

rusty904 said:


> A quick question for all of you Stumpy 6fattie owners. I recently bought a set of Roval boost 27.5 wheels. I think they came stock from the stumpjumper and have a 29mm internal width. Do those of you with this wheelset find that the 29mm rim provides adequate support for a 2.8 or 3.0 tire?
> 
> Follow up question, do any of you with the Roval Traverse Fattie 27.5 wheelset happen to know the ERD of the rim?
> 
> Any input would be a huge help! Thanks!


I found that at lower pressures there was too much wash...I thought I had broken a rim it was so awful... I ran a couple of psi higher and that sorted it for me..

I no longer ride 3.0's mind, I switched out for 2.8's which I believe are the optimal width for grip and cornering...?? I found the 3's seemed too fat also, the 2.8's feel just right - personal pref...depends on the tyre itself also of course...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Patu said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Bikeyoke do a standard swapout which enables you to run any 190x50 (7.5x2) with a 12.7mm eye. The Float X remote comes in this size so could be a good option especially as I'd realy like a remote..
> 
> I haven't run the Evol conversion but I was considering it, I just wonder if I'm best to put the cash towards a new shock instead?


I find the EVOL to be plenty plush, and it puts up a fight against bottoming out. Given that you can install spacers with the EVOL can, you should have a shock fully capable of handling what you throw at it on a 135 mm bike. It's the cheapest shock upgrade ever. Seems silly to try something else.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Patu said:


> I found that at lower pressures there was too much wash...I thought I had broken a rim it was so awful... I ran a couple of psi higher and that sorted it for me..
> 
> I no longer ride 3.0's mind, I switched out for 2.8's which I believe are the optimal width for grip and cornering...?? I found the 3's seemed too fat also, the 2.8's feel just right - personal pref...depends on the tyre itself also of course...


Cool, good feedback. My main concerns were both tire role and the narrow rim rounding the tire profile so much that the edge knobs are no longer effective.

May I ask your weight and preferred PSI?


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## zebt66 (Sep 28, 2015)

rusty904 said:


> A quick question for all of you Stumpy 6fattie owners. I recently bought a set of Roval boost 27.5 wheels. I think they came stock from the stumpjumper and have a 29mm internal width. Do those of you with this wheelset find that the 29mm rim provides adequate support for a 2.8 or 3.0 tire?
> 
> Follow up question, do any of you with the Roval Traverse Fattie 27.5 wheelset happen to know the ERD of the rim?
> 
> Any input would be a huge help! Thanks!


I think the 29MM wide are more then enough, i run around 18psi Rear and 16 psi in my 3.0 tires and bike handles amazing.


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

zebt66 said:


> I think the 29MM wide are more then enough, i run around 18psi Rear and 16 psi in my 3.0 tires and bike handles amazing.


Good to know, I'm posting on this prematurely as my wheels have not even shown up yet. I just got a little spooked due to this article and this picture of the 27.5x3.0 tire on the 29mm rim. In the picture it appears way to rounded but I guess it's all highly dependent on the tire. I will wait and see tomorrow. 
Nerd Alert: Wheel Size by the Numbers ? Flow Mountain Bike


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## GamachoLibre (Dec 27, 2014)

Question: Anyone have a recommended bash guard for '16 Stumpjumper FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie? Not looking for any chainguides, just some protection.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Any reason why it seems like no one is doing volume spacers in the shock? I put one in mine and it's helped.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

zebt66 said:


> I think the 29MM wide are more then enough, i run around 18psi Rear and 16 psi in my 3.0 tires and bike handles amazing.


In running 14f/15r and I think they're great in almost every circumstance. The one exception, and I'm not sure a wider rim would help, is when I'm flying downhill with the bike leaned over in the corner and I hit a rough line, there is a bit of give and then an undamped rebound, which pushes me laterally. I've come to wrecking this way a couple times. One of those times, when I was launched completely off the trail, I found my rear tire pressure to be down in the single digits at the bottom if the trail. I had been managing a slow leak, so this could have been part of the cause or it could have been indicative of a burp.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

GamachoLibre said:


> Question: Anyone have a recommended bash guard for '16 Stumpjumper FSR Comp Carbon 6Fattie? Not looking for any chainguides, just some protection.


I'm using the 77 designz bashguard, and it's working great. I'm the type of idiot who goes up and over every rock I see, too, so it gets lots of use. It attaches with two bolts on the ICSG05 tabs without removing the crank.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Patu said:


> I found that at lower pressures there was too much wash...I thought I had broken a rim it was so awful... I ran a couple of psi higher and that sorted it for me..
> 
> I no longer ride 3.0's mind, I switched out for 2.8's which I believe are the optimal width for grip and cornering...?? I found the 3's seemed too fat also, the 2.8's feel just right - personal pref...depends on the tyre itself also of course...


I too get to much squirm from the rear tire when pushing hard in a turn. I'm 255lbs and 18psi feels "right" but I get squirm in turns even at slower speeds, so I run 20psi to help this a little. I'm in the process of getting 35mm ID wheels, so hoping this will help some more.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

boostenmkiv said:


> Any reason why it seems like no one is doing volume spacers in the shock? I put one in mine and it's helped.


^^^ Not sure, I have the EVOL can as well as the full set of spacers&#8230; running without any, I guess I'm just being lazy. Really should test out the changes by adding a small or medium. At 195lb in full gear and running 255psi and the shock feels great! Not exactly sure what the spacers actually achieve?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

TEvans73 said:


> ^^^ Not sure, I have the EVOL can as well as the full set of spacers&#8230; running without any, I guess I'm just being lazy. Really should test out the changes by adding a small or medium. At 195lb in full gear and running 255psi and the shock feels great! Not exactly sure what the spacers actually achieve?


Curious what sort of sag you have at those settings. After an initial setup where I was getting minimal sag at lower than expected pressures (I think some play in the compression damping/lockout switch had me setting-up my shock in trail mode.), I've found that there's a wide range of pressures where I'm right around 30% sag. I'm currently at 220-225 psi and has the same sag as I did at 205 psi, although it had much more support at the higher pressures as it gets into its stroke. I assume this is normal for shocks with larger negative springs.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

rusty904 said:


> Cool, good feedback. My main concerns were both tire role and the narrow rim rounding the tire profile so much that the edge knobs are no longer effective.
> 
> May I ask your weight and preferred PSI?


Hi Rusty,

I'm by no means an expert and actually don't know what I'm talking about most of the time...if that's not already obvious but I'm 82kg and at the moment I'm experimenting with PSi around 16-18. Anything less than 16 for me and the roll is just awful.. I prefer it a little harder if I'm honest but still trying different pressures.

The tyre is quite 'rolled' but I don't find that is a problem, especially if I am leaning the bike right over in the corners.

Best tip I can offer is get yourself a digital pressure guage, set your tyres to 17 (maybe..?) and go out and try it, if too much roll, dial it up to 18, if not enough grip, dial it down to 16...trial and error to find your optimal comfort


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

rusty904 said:


> Good to know, I'm posting on this prematurely as my wheels have not even shown up yet. I just got a little spooked due to this article and this picture of the 27.5x3.0 tire on the 29mm rim. In the picture it appears way to rounded but I guess it's all highly dependent on the tire. I will wait and see tomorrow.
> Nerd Alert: Wheel Size by the Numbers ? Flow Mountain Bike


You are correct. The i29 rim + specialized 3.0 tire is ridiculously rounded. The cornering knobs are a joke. I do not recommend either (but I would like to try out the new butchers).
I built an i45 wheelset and with beefier tires and love it.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Had a chill Autumn day aboard the Stumpy 6F at the Frederick Watershed with my wife and buddies:


Leaves by ricky d, on Flickr


Leaves by ricky d, on Flickr


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

majr said:


> You are correct. The i29 rim + specialized 3.0 tire is ridiculously rounded. The cornering knobs are a joke. I do not recommend either (but I would like to try out the new butchers).
> I built an i45 wheelset and with beefier tires and love it.


Yeah, the rocket ron's that came with the wheels aren't as ridiculous but you'd still have to get to a pretty extreme lean angle to even use the side knobs. I'm going to talk to the LBS and see if they can get me the newer 38mm roval rims. Apparently the ERD is identical.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

rusty904 said:


> Yeah, the rocket ron's that came with the wheels aren't as ridiculous but you'd still have to get to a pretty extreme lean angle to even use the side knobs. I'm going to talk to the LBS and see if they can get me the newer 38mm roval rims. Apparently the ERD is identical.


Unless you get a stupid good deal on roval, you really should look into i9 or something else. This recommendation was made to me by more than one specialized dealer.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

i9 are as expensive as the Roval from what I can see on their web site.
27.5\" BackCountry450
27.5\" BackCountry360


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Nash04 said:


> i9 are as expensive as the Roval from what I can see on their web site.
> 27.5\" BackCountry450
> 27.5\" BackCountry360


Sorry I should have been more clear. The quality is the problem with roval, so other options were recommended to me. Price might be similar or slightly more, but far more reliable with something like i9.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## rusty904 (Apr 25, 2008)

Yeah I just picked up the Roval alloys slightly used with new Rocket Ron 2.8 tires. It was a great price, I just wish they were wider.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

boostenmkiv said:


> Sorry I should have been more clear. The quality is the problem with roval, so other options were recommended to me. Price might be similar or slightly more, but far more reliable with something like i9.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Understandable, I swap mine out with some 50mm LB wheels which are great.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

boostenmkiv said:


> Sorry I should have been more clear. The quality is the problem with roval, so other options were recommended to me. Price might be similar or slightly more, but far more reliable with something like i9.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


Most, if not all, of the aftermarket Roval wheels run DT Swiss hubs. These hubs have been very reliable. I am thinking your LBS is making a general statement about Roval wheels based on the the wheels that come on the lower end bikes. Specialized, like all bike manufactures, has to hit the price point and hubs are one of the items that take a big hit on lower price point bikes.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

JillRide45 said:


> Most, if not all, of the aftermarket Roval wheels run DT Swiss hubs. These hubs have been very reliable. I am thinking your LBS is making a general statement about Roval wheels based on the the wheels that come on the lower end bikes. Specialized, like all bike manufactures, has to hit the price point and hubs are one of the items that take a big hit on lower price point bikes.


That's possible that they both have a lot of warranty issues on the lower end hubs only(mine included) but when I asked about ordering the higher end roval wheelset with dt swiss internals, that's when it was recommended to me to buy i9 or something similar.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Just had a look into head angle adjusted steerers but the message I'm getting is that this is not possible on the stumpy due to the integrated head tube.. I was really looking forwarding to trying a slacker front.. 

I know many will say this messes up the geo but I wanted to try it anyway..

I've already dropped in a single offset bushing up front of the rear shock, which of course now gives me tremendous pedal strikes I have to manage...I probably would have returned the rear bushing to OEM if I could slacken the front a degree... The increase of 10mm up front (160mm travel) has helped counter...

Anyone done anything along these lines? Just want to get the front wheel a little further out front if possible...probably the best solution is to switch to an Enduro but want to avoid buying a new bike...


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

phride said:


> I'm using the 77 designz bashguard, and it's working great. I'm the type of idiot who goes up and over every rock I see, too, so it gets lots of use. It attaches with two bolts on the ICSG05 tabs without removing the crank.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


My buddy and I both use the MRP XCg V2 bashguard on our 6Fatties, and we play on rocks also, although he's a little braver than I am. You can hear the bash guard coming into use in this vid, especially the first time he gets up the rock 






... and here's the rock:


Frederick Watershed Trailwork and Play Day by ricky d, on Flickr


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I like the way you guys stop to try things out and spot each other, Drevil. We always took our lumps solo (well, with an audience), and while there are times where a spotter would just get hurt, there are other cases where a helping hand could be reassuring. I was looking at another vimeo vid of yourd with a big log ride that you were all struggling with, and I can definitely see where having a spot would help with getting the confidence needed to tackle that.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

phride said:


> I like the way you guys stop to try things out and spot each other, Drevil. We always took our lumps solo (well, with an audience), and while there are times where a spotter would just get hurt, there are other cases where a helping hand could be reassuring. I was looking at another vimeo vid of yourd with a big log ride that you were all struggling with, and I can definitely see where having a spot would help with getting the confidence needed to tackle that.


Yeah, most of the groups I ride with don't mind stopping to play around on logs and rocks, and I think it makes us better all-around riders. Plus, it's fun laughing at your friends, as long as an ambulance isn't needed  It helps that hardly any of us race, and for those that actually understand what VO[SUB]2[/SUB] max means, they already know (or are made aware) that my rides are moderately paced with a touch of goofy.


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## catnash (Jan 14, 2004)

*Mine*

Here's mine at a rest-point, still with the GC at the back. I haven't organised to get a Purg Grid at the back for a bit more winter grip. My ideal Tyre for the front would be a butcher. Not sure if they'll do those in 3"?. Otherwise Renthal Bar and stem and haven't needed the need to upgrade anything else.


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## EastCoasterVa (Aug 11, 2016)

I bought a Carbon Comp 6Fattie 2016 3 months back and it has been a blast. This thing is a trail eating monster. 

I took it to our local downhill park and towards the end of the day I got a flat. I am running tubeless (with milk) so I figured I must have rolled the tire. I started pumping up the tire and heard the hissing sound of leaking air. I got a small (1/4 inch) gash in the sidewall of my tire. I am running the stock Control tires. Are the grid tires any better? What other Plus size tires do you all recommend. Most of my riding is on hard pack trails with the occasional weekend trip to the bike park. I am not averse to having multiple sets of tires (trail / downhill).


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Looking at a 2016 comp. How does the 2017 Rockshox suspension compare to the 16 Fox?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Looking at a 2016 comp. How does the 2017 Rockshox suspension compare to the 16 Fox?


The 2016 Carbon Comp had the same suspension (except factory LSC dial) as the S-works. No lower level shock and fork like Specialized is doing this year. The 2016 Fox 34 fork is great and easily tuneable. The Fox 34 fork has the lowest A2C height and the lighest weight (about 1/2 pound lighter than the Pike) of the 34 forks. The Fox DPS shock is great, just add the Evol can for $70 and the bike is amazing. Looking at the 2017 specs I think you need to step up to the Expert at 5000 to be comparable.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

That answerd that! That was my thought as well. I just slapped down some greenbacks on the 16. Just wanted to be sure I did not overlook something. :thumbsup:


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> That answerd that! That was my thought as well. I just slapped down some greenbacks on the 16. Just wanted to be sure I did not overlook something.


Good move. The 2016 was an unusually well kitted bike.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I took a demo out all weekend. By the time I took it back I was like "Take my money!!!". Lotsa fun. 4ft drops to flat were like nothing. More smiles per mile than anything I have ridden.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Yes, GRID casing is a stronger casing than the Control casing.
WTB does a 'Tough' casing for many of their tires.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

What do you all think of sizing on these? The medium fits me. The large feels pretty good too. The large could use a 10mm shorter stem for my taste and the bars feel a tad high. I had a medium camber earlier this year. I am 5'9". I am on the fence between the two sizes.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

I have got a camber 2014 XLand a fattie 2016 XL, and it's the same longer.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> What do you all think of sizing on these? The medium fits me. The large feels pretty good too. The large could use a 10mm shorter stem for my taste and the bars feel a tad high. I had a medium camber earlier this year. I am 5'9". I am on the fence between the two sizes.


i'm almost 5'10" and i ride the medium. 
i ended up putting a longer 90mm stem and i have it slammed down to get my reach to where i'm comfortable. on a large the seat tube is a bit tall so with a dropper post it is very tight to try and achieve the proper height, i also didn't want to deal with the taller head tube either and risk the front wheel wandering" on climbs

your camber is probably longer than the 6fattie


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## Patu (Jun 23, 2016)

Just had a look into head angle adjusted steerers but the message I'm getting is that this is not possible on the stumpy due to the integrated head tube.. I was really looking forwarding to trying a slacker front..

I know many will say this messes up the geo but I wanted to try it anyway..

I've already dropped in a single offset bushing in the rear shock, which of course now gives me tremendous pedal strikes I have to manage...I probably would have returned the rear bushing to OEM if I could slacken out the head tube a degree... The increase of 10mm up front (160mm travel) has helped counter the strikes a little...

Anyone done anything along these lines? Just want to get the front wheel a little further out front if possible...probably the best solution is to switch to an Enduro but want to avoid buying a new bike... 

Any ideas?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

phride said:


> I'm using the 77 designz bashguard, and it's working great. I'm the type of idiot who goes up and over every rock I see, too, so it gets lots of use. It attaches with two bolts on the ICSG05 tabs without removing the crank.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


How long did it take for you to receive it. I ordered one last week and haven't seen a tracking number as of yet and never got a reply back from them when I ask for any updates. Thinking about cancelling my order and purchase the Absolute Black guard since I'm using their chainring. Pretty sad when they don't take the time to update their customers!?!?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Nash04 said:


> How long did it take for you to receive it. I ordered one last week and haven't seen a tracking number as of yet and never got a reply back from them when I ask for any updates. Thinking about cancelling my order and purchase the Absolute Black guard since I'm using their chainring. Pretty sad when they don't take the time to update their customers!?!?


They're in Europe, so it took a little longer than in Amazon Prime land, and I didn't get a tracking number. It just showed up in 10-12 days.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Duh! I know they're from Europe but I dealt with CRC, AB and Bike24 which is also from Germany and took less time to receive the item and at least did receive a tracking number.
Wow! 10-12 days! R U on the west coast?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> What do you all think of sizing on these? The medium fits me. The large feels pretty good too. The large could use a 10mm shorter stem for my taste and the bars feel a tad high. I had a medium camber earlier this year. I am 5'9". I am on the fence between the two sizes.


I'm 5'9", and got a medium 2016 S-Works. It came with a 65mm stem, which I switched to a 50mm 0deg Thomson stem almost from the start. I love my setup.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

phride said:


> They're in Europe, so it took a little longer than in Amazon Prime land, and I didn't get a tracking number. It just showed up in 10-12 days.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Got an email this morning stating the part is now in New York so it should be here soon, yeh!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Drevil said:


> I'm 5'9", and got a medium 2016 S-Works. It came with a 65mm stem, which I switched to a 50mm 0deg Thomson stem almost from the start. I love my setup.


6'0" here on the large. I'm using a 40mm stem and 785mm bars, and the seat is almost all the way forward.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I took out a large test bike. It did feel a tad big. After that I got on the medium and it felt kinda short. Like I said. I had a medium camber. It was fine. I have money down on a 16 comp in orange. Great price! I want to get a second 16 for my son. They only want to knock $200 off for the demo. It looks well used. Will the 17 be that bad compared to the 16? The did cheap it out. Thanks for the input guys. That did help my decision.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I took out a large test bike. It did feel a tad big. After that I got on the medium and it felt kinda short. Like I said. I had a medium camber. It was fine. I have money down on a 16 comp in orange. Great price! I want to get a second 16 for my son. They only want to knock $200 off for the demo. It looks well used. Will the 17 be that bad compared to the 16? The did cheap it out. Thanks for the input guys. That did help my decision.


which one do you have a deposit on??

$200.00 off of retail for a 2016 demo bike?? if i'm understanding that correctly, that is not a good deal at all. it's a little thing called depreciation...

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=3062573&make=741&model=83295

comparing specs from '16->'17 the big change looks to be the fork, you are also getting the grid tires, there are other things to, but looks like apples to apples to me but the msrp dropped $500 bucks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I took out a large test bike. It did feel a tad big. After that I got on the medium and it felt kinda short. Like I said. I had a medium camber. It was fine. I have money down on a 16 comp in orange. Great price! I want to get a second 16 for my son. They only want to knock $200 off for the demo. It looks well used. Will the 17 be that bad compared to the 16? The did cheap it out. Thanks for the input guys. That did help my decision.


You can get a 3cm shorter stem on the large. That will help both fit and steering.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

New 2016 is $2699. Demo 2016 is $2499. New 17 is $2899.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

phride said:


> You can get a 3cm shorter stem on the large. That will help both fit and steering.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


This is true. But the tall seat tube and tall bars are a bit of an issue. The dropper will be dam near hilted.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

MTBMatty So I see you ditched the dropper and went for a XC typical position? Not exactly what I am after. I like the shorter stem and wide bar position as I have gotten away from typical xc riding. I have learned shorter is better to a degree.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Patu said:


> Have decided to black out the S-Works Stumpy...
> 
> ...also upgraded to a Fox Float 36 with custom gold decals...
> 
> View attachment 1099954


You wouldn't still happen to have the template file to cut the vinyl you used? I have a small vinyl cutter and was wanting to cover the red stripes on my 6fattie expert with matte black vinyl. I guess I could trace it and import into my design software&#8230; but if you already have it then it would be appreciated if you could share.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

My Bad, should have read further down and would have answered my question.


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## Ryker01 (Jan 27, 2012)

5'9" and I ride a large. I didn't get a chance to ride the medium. I did test ride and demo the Trek 27+ in med and large, I liked the large. Just felt like the front end was lighter and easier to lift off over ruts or before a launch.


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## Ryker01 (Jan 27, 2012)

How are your rims holding up? Both front and rear of my expert are already out of true, both lateral and radial. I paid the LBS to true the front and it was improved but still not true.


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## Ryker01 (Jan 27, 2012)

Jack Burns said:


> Oh, I also played with the seat post air pressure. I found that it makes a big difference to vary the air pressure in terms of speed going up and down. There is definitely a sweet spot for me. I love the Command Post and the action lever placed exactly where the front shifter used to be. It really enhances the ride and makes me feel more confident in every situation.


what seat post pressure did you like? anything below 45psi and mine will drop on its on free will at random.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Ryker01 said:


> How are your rims holding up? Both front and rear of my expert are already out of true, both lateral and radial. I paid the LBS to true the front and it was improved but still not true.


Time to build some new wheels with some more spokes!

Rebuilding mine with some 32h i39 Asym carbon hoops.


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## jaross (May 2, 2006)

First ride report:
I picked up a '16 black XL comp from my LBS. It was a rental but not used a whole heck of a lot. I am 6'1" and after trying the L and the XL, the XL was a no-brainer. It just felt better. I do have the seat all the way down though.

This bike gave me bigger balls to be sure! Tried a few features I had never done before and got more air then I have in the past on the same jumps. On strava I got a few personal records on climbs. I was expecting to get some PRs on descents too, but not this time (I did get a few second best, not bad for my first time out on a new bike).

*Question for those who know their 6Fatties: * Is there anything I shouldadjust if I find myself landing too far forward from a jump? My front wheel hit first a few times and it was unsettling to say the least. I rode it out okay, but I would rather not have this problem. Maybe its just due to rider error, but I didn't have this issue as much on my hardtail fatbike. I was thinking about speeding up the rebound in the front fork and slowing it a little in the back shock. Would that work or would something else work better?
*
Also, questions about suspension psi: * It sounds like a lot of people run 10-30psi higher then autosag in the rear. When you set the autosag do you just hit the button in the red valve once? I pressed it again and more air came out.. Anyone have a guide on what PSI I should run based on my weight? This autosag thing seems like a pain in the butt. (I am between 210 and 220lbs).


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

jaross said:


> *Question for those who know their 6Fatties: * Is there anything I shouldadjust if I find myself landing too far forward from a jump? My front wheel hit first a few times and it was unsettling to say the least. I rode it out okay, but I would rather not have this problem. Maybe its just due to rider error, but I didn't have this issue as much on my hardtail fatbike. I was thinking about speeding up the rebound in the front fork and slowing it a little in the back shock. Would that work or would something else work better?
> 
> *
> Also, questions about suspension psi: * It sounds like a lot of people run 10-30psi higher then autosag in the rear. When you set the autosag do you just hit the button in the red valve once? I pressed it again and more air came out.. Anyone have a guide on what PSI I should run based on my weight? This autosag thing seems like a pain in the butt. (I am between 210 and 220lbs).


My guess is that this new bike is riding a bit taller in the front end, and you are still getting used to it. Meaning your timing is off a bit and your possibly pulling up late on the front or not quite enough. I wouldn't adjust the rebound to try and correct it.

As far as auto sag is concerned, you only need to hit the red valve one time. 
Pump shock ( black valve ) body weight including riding gear plus 50 psi
Make sure rear shock is in the open setting
Sit on bike and bounce on the seat 
Depress red valve one time only using red valve cap
It should burp out some air, and then it feels like it settles quick 
This last part takes about 3-5 seconds


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Ryker01 said:


> How are your rims holding up? Both front and rear of my expert are already out of true, both lateral and radial. I paid the LBS to true the front and it was improved but still not true.


Had a rear wheel replaced due to a broken hub, buy I had to retrue the wheel 3 times in~600mi of riding.

The new roval traverse wheel with dt Swiss internals feels a lot better right off the bat. The inner diameter is 9mm wider and the wheel feels a lot stiffer and has less flex pushing hard in a turn. I've also noticed I can run slightly lower pressure without getting tire squirm!

My front is still a 29mm internal width as that wasn't replaced under warranty due to no damage.

My bike is the fsr comp carbon and I would highly recommend a wheel upgrade over stock.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

RS VR6 said:


> Time to build some new wheels with some more spokes!
> 
> Rebuilding mine with some 32h i39 Asym carbon hoops.


Yep, specialized really skimped with the spokes on their traverse wheels.


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## jaross (May 2, 2006)

Okay, two rides in with the new Comp. Still not many PRs, except for a few short climbs. I am surprised about this, coming from a Fatbike with 4.0 Jumbo Jims, DT Swiss 2250 wheelset and 120mm travel up front (hardtail). I think pedal strikes are whats getting me, or at least the worry of pedal strikes. I like putting down a lot of power while leaning into a turn. The comp is definitely better for small, 'darty' turns, but for longer sharper turns I feel unstable and I just can't put power through the rear wheel to keep me steady. Maybe I just need more then 2 rides to get used to it?! Or maybe I need that EBB and 170mm crank arms...

This is with 18.5psi front tire and 22psi rear. I am about 220lbs. Also 92psi fork, and 235psi shock. Trail settings for the shocks. 2 clicks slower then standard on both for the rebound.

All that being said, I have felt confident enough to try certain features I never have before. I do enjoy the comfort of this bike compared to the hardtrail.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

majr said:


> You are correct. The i29 rim + specialized 3.0 tire is ridiculously rounded. The cornering knobs are a joke..


One Thing I think you guys are failing to recognize is that these tires are meant to be run a much lower pressure than your typical MTB tire.

Th rounded profile when you look at the top of the tire is not the same as the profile under the wheel. the tire flattens out and grips like crazy under weight and cornering load.

Sure if you pumped the tire up to 60 psi then those side knobs would be pointless, but thats not how this low pressure tire system works. It not the same as what you are accustomed to.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

jaross said:


> Okay, two rides in with the new Comp. Still not many PRs, except for a few short climbs. I am surprised about this, coming from a Fatbike with 4.0 Jumbo Jims, DT Swiss 2250 wheelset and 120mm travel up front (hardtail). I think pedal strikes are whats getting me, or at least the worry of pedal strikes. I like putting down a lot of power while leaning into a turn. The comp is definitely better for small, 'darty' turns, but for longer sharper turns I feel unstable and I just can't put power through the rear wheel to keep me steady. Maybe I just need more then 2 rides to get used to it?! Or maybe I need that EBB and 170mm crank arms...
> 
> This is with 18.5psi front tire and 22psi rear. I am about 220lbs. Also 92psi fork, and 235psi shock. Trail settings for the shocks. 2 clicks slower then standard on both for the rebound.
> 
> All that being said, I have felt confident enough to try certain features I never have before. I do enjoy the comfort of this bike compared to the hardtrail.


Try running your tires around 15 & 17, and those tires will feel way more planted when carving long corners. I'm 180+ gear and run 13/14 or sometimes 15 in the rear. The larger is if I'm going long distances over chunky terrain and am likely to land heavily on an obstacle and touch down on the rim after I get beat into exhaustion.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## jaross (May 2, 2006)

phride said:


> Try running your tires around 15 & 17, and those tires will feel way more planted when carving long corners. I'm 180+ gear and run 13/14 or sometimes 15 in the rear. The larger is if I'm going long distances over chunky terrain and am likely to land heavily on an obstacle and touch down on the rim after I get beat into exhaustion.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I will try this but I also heard that the tire can roll too much and even come off the bead with the narrow 29mm rims.. Luckily my bike was from a rental fleet and the rear already failed so they replaced it with the 38mm roval with DT swiss hub  but my front is still the standard. Think it will make the bike handle strangely having a wider rim in back?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I find tire squirm to be much less of an issue at lower pressure than undamped rebound is at higher pressure. It's at least predictable with under or over steering resulting, depending on the circumstances, whereas undamped rebound can suddenly throw you way off line. 

As for losing the bead, I haven't heard of that happening with the Specialized tires, and even burping is a rarity. 

I'm sure your rim setup will be fine, even if your front tire could use the extra support more. Report back on it and let us know if you can perceive the difference.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Dman7777 said:


> One Thing I think you guys are failing to recognize is that these tires are meant to be run a much lower pressure than your typical MTB tire.
> 
> Th rounded profile when you look at the top of the tire is not the same as the profile under the wheel. the tire flattens out and grips like crazy under weight and cornering load.
> 
> Sure if you pumped the tire up to 60 psi then those side knobs would be pointless, but thats not how this low pressure tire system works. It not the same as what you are accustomed to.


I can assure you that I have thought of that. And I still feel the same way.
The other negative effect of the overly tall/rounded profile is that the tire footprint when climbing tech is smaller, or at least less effective. Part of that comes down to the overly hard compound specialized chose on the purg/gc.

Switching to wider rims and better tires (DWs and DHFs) gave way more grip all over. And no, the profile didn't flatten out under load enough that I rolled off the cornering knobs of those non-rounded out tires!


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

phride said:


> I find the EVOL to be plenty plush, and it puts up a fight against bottoming out. Given that you can install spacers with the EVOL can, you should have a shock fully capable of handling what you throw at it on a 135 mm bike. It's the cheapest shock upgrade ever. Seems silly to try something else.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


 did you upgrade to the EVOL can because of bottoming issues? i'm noticing (more so with my 29 wheels) that my rear shock is lacking in the middle of the stroke, just feels like it dumps through it to quickly. not as noticeable with the plus wheels. was contemplating volume spacers, wondering if the EVOL can makes more sense. 
did you try volume spacers first, and would you post a picture of the bike with the EVOL can please??
also, how much do you weigh with riding gear, and what pressure do you now run in the shock??
many thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I got the EVOL can because it was blowing through the travel under moderate riding, but I never bottomed out harshly even under heavier riding. It's much more supportive in the mid stroke, so I'm striking pedals less. I weigh 190 fully loaded and I've been running it at 220 psi. It's quite responsive, but I haven't bottomed it out yet. I'm hoping to hit some bigger lines this weekend, so I'll see whether I get full travel.

You can't use spacers with the autosag shock, but you can once you've gone to the EVOL can. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

TEvans73 said:


> ^^^ Not sure, I have the EVOL can as well as the full set of spacers&#8230; running without any, I guess I'm just being lazy. Really should test out the changes by adding a small or medium. At 195lb in full gear and running 255psi and the shock feels great! Not exactly sure what the spacers actually achieve?


do you have the EVOL can on a carbon 6fattie frame?? what frame size do you have?


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

phride said:


> I got the EVOL can because it was blowing through the travel under moderate riding, but I never bottomed out harshly even under heavier riding. It's much more supportive in the mid stroke, so I'm striking pedals less. I weigh 190 fully loaded and I've been running it at 220 psi. It's quite responsive, but I haven't bottomed it out yet. I'm hoping to hit some bigger lines this weekend, so I'll see whether I get full travel.
> 
> You can't use spacers with the autosag shock, but you can once you've gone to the EVOL can.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


thanks, that's what i was hoping to hear.

i'm curious whether or not it will fit into a medium carbon frame.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

mtbmatty said:


> thanks, that's what i was hoping to hear.
> 
> i'm curious whether or not it will fit into a medium carbon frame.


It fits right on the shock with no problem. There is no external reservoir, so it doesn't really take up extra space.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

phride said:


> It fits right on the shock with no problem. There is no external reservoir, so it doesn't really take up extra space.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I'm not sure how big it is, there is not a lot of real estate under there...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

It fits.








Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

thanks for all the replies!!

plenty of room on the aluminum frame, looks a bit tighter on the carbon frame. it would probably be ok, im guessing the evol is no wider than the stock auto sag section


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

phride said:


> I got the EVOL can because it was blowing through the travel under moderate riding, but I never bottomed out harshly even under heavier riding. It's much more supportive in the mid stroke, so I'm striking pedals less. I weigh 190 fully loaded and I've been running it at 220 psi. It's quite responsive, but I haven't bottomed it out yet. I'm hoping to hit some bigger lines this weekend, so I'll see whether I get full travel.
> 
> You can't use spacers with the autosag shock, but you can once you've gone to the EVOL can.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I've got a volume spacer in the stock rear shock and it definitely works.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Ryker01 said:


> what seat post pressure did you like? anything below 45psi and mine will drop on its on free will at random.


Hi Ryker01, actually I am not sure what I ended up with and what it was to begin with. I think it was at 40# to start, then I went to 70# which was too much, and 60# worked well, which is where I left it.

The feeling i am trying to describe is being able to sit down and continue to weight the rear while dropping the seat, against the air pressure in the seat post, so as to maintain the traction and balance of the bike. On my former bike, I had a Gravity Dropper, which worked fine, but the period when it came to dropping the seat was on of momentarily losing ideal fore/aft balance and losing some traction.

I am thinking perhaps 63# might be the better setting for me, I will have to fiddle with it again.

The same issue occurs when raising the seat as well. However the effect is less important because when the seat comes up it usually means the trail is leveling out or going up hill, and getting out of the saddle, and getting into a pedaling gear ratio, is more natural standing, thus letting the seat rise.

The sensation I had, which had never occurred to me before, was of having the saddle sort of "glued" to my ass, keeping me in a good balance with the terrain, all controlled by the timing of the seat dropper lever.

When I'm on the 6fattie the seat post is constantly changing position. I never used the Gravity Dropper as much, because it lacked the modulation of the Command Post.

One thing I am not so fond of is the notchy feel of the Command Post. But on the other hand, the easily adjusted variable air pressure to vary the feel of compression and return is good.

On a different note, I am eventually going to try wider i45 rims and 3.25 front and 3.0 rear, after this winter. This will weigh more, but the goal would be even more traction. Has anyone tried this? If so, did they like it?


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## BIke N Gear (Sep 27, 2004)

Jack Burns said:


> Hi Ryker01, actually I am not sure what I ended up with and what it was to begin with. I think it was at 40# to start, then I went to 70# which was too much, and 60# worked well, which is where I left it.
> 
> The feeling i am trying to describe is being able to sit down and continue to weight the rear while dropping the seat, against the air pressure in the seat post, so as to maintain the traction and balance of the bike. On my former bike, I had a Gravity Dropper, which worked fine, but the period when it came to dropping the seat was on of momentarily losing ideal fore/aft balance and losing some traction.
> 
> ...


Not sure if you are discussing the Command Post Blacklite, but they don't recommend putting more than 40psi in there.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

*Evol*



mtbmatty said:


> thanks for all the replies!!
> 
> plenty of room on the aluminum frame, looks a bit tighter on the carbon frame. it would probably be ok, im guessing the evol is no wider than the stock auto sag section


Bit less room on the carbon, but I completely cycled the rear suspension with no air pressure and nothing touched or rubbed. Also inspected after over a dozen hard rides.... no clearance issues what so ever.


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

To add, Vorsprung Corset is made with a special sized can for Stumpy and Camber too. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

TEvans73 said:


> Bit less room on the carbon, but I completely cycled the rear suspension with no air pressure and nothing touched or rubbed. Also inspected after over a dozen hard rides.... no clearance issues what so ever


Looks good, thanks!! looks like all the "extra" is on the bottom of the can, I was more concerned about the upper part where it threads in. I also let the air out of my stock set up, and compressed the shock. There is a minimal amount of movement between the 
Frame and shock.


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## Daveogringo (Nov 19, 2016)

Tire pressure is high, I am 220lbs also and I'm running 13psi front with 16psi rear. The front tire pushes in turns if it is even slightly over pressure.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Has anyone found a good downtube protector? Picking up my orange comp in the morning....


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

A few posts back I described putting too much air in the seatpost. I didn't realize that the limit was 40, and my bad for not being apprised. 

What triggered this was putting air into a Reverb on anothr bike. 

Anyway, my post is still working fine, for the time being. O hope I didn't screw it up! 

All of the dropper posts my friends have had over the years have failed. It's a drag when it happens. 

When they don't return to the top, it sucks!


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Some random mods.

Kabolt thru bolt, Ibis HiFi crabon bar, and Ergon GE1 grips.


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## teemu (Mar 4, 2006)

*Stumpy 6fattie Carbon Comp impressions*

Greetings from Finland!

I purchased the 2016 6fattie Carbon Comp last August and have been really happy with it.

Made some modifications e.g. RF Next carbon bars and RF Turbine 50mm stem, AbsoluteBLACK 28t oval chainring, 77designz bashguard and FreeSolo chainguide. I have also ordered an EVOL air can to reduce the shock bottoming. Moreover, no issues regarding weeping sidewalls with Purg or GC after the tubeless conversion. In wet conditions, GC seems to be losing the traction quite easily. Therefore, I may swap it to Purg 3" Grid in a near future.

I have been reading about the concerns of the narrow rim width for 3" tires. So far that has not been an issue for me (running 17 PSI rear, 15 PSI front, 90 kg w/o riding gear). However, I have not tested wider rims and have no reference to compare with.

The low bottom bracket has been occasionally an issue on the rocky and technical trails here in Helsinki area. Therefore, I have been thinking to get shorter cranks to reduce pedal strikes. I also have tried to somewhat modify my pedaling to minimize the pedal strikes.

Overall, a great and versatile bike. Really loving it!!

Btw, this thread has been really useful in many ways (before and after purchasing the 6fattie). Thank you all for that!


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## rushman3 (Jan 24, 2009)

Good looking bike build.....Try Race Face crank caps to help with pedal strikes


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## teemu (Mar 4, 2006)

Thanks for the tip! Will try the RF crank caps.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Finally installed my 29+ wheel on the front and talk about a difference towards pedal striking or BB contact....no more. The bike rode real nice with the 29.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

RS VR6 said:


> Some random mods.


I also went with some riser bars, Answer ProTaper 750. Also slapped a Truvativ Stylo T40 seat post on (the carbon version is now on my fat bike). I also am able to use a lovely original Flite saddle (ca. 1995); too harsh for my previous hard tails but comfy with the cushion on both ends. Still fine tuning the cockpit and the stem is at 70mm. Just perfect. Looking to replace the tires soon. So far, this bike just keeps on making me smile.










Out in the wild:


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## piesoup (Feb 9, 2009)

*Shock noise*

I have also just received my 6fattie, the 2016 Carbon Comp. 
Overall I am impressed. Once I have tublessified the wheels and taped the frame I'll get out on it. I swapped the SRAM mech and shifter over to XT, just what i am used to.

But, no grease in the headset bearings, so I suggest you check yours.
The most worrisome though is the binding noise from the rear shock. Its not the noise you expect to hear from oil passing through a port, or like when the oil has mixed with the air. It sounds like the bush is too tight around the shaft. 
The noise is there with and without air in the shock. I have removed the top bolt and cycled the rear, nice and quiet with no stiction. So I know it's not the linkages.
And with the shock refitted, even with no air, there is a considerable amount of force needed to get the shock to compress. More than I have gotten used to over the years of having full sus bikes.
I know Kashima is slippery, but my old Float, when empty, took almost no effort at all to get the rear to move.

This shock seems to be binding. Anyone else noticed this?? I'll give it a few rides and see how it goes. I expect the small bump compliance to be appalling!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

You could pull the shock and add some float fluid, but I'd get it back to your LBS to get that looked at in case you have a warrantee issue to address.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Dirty Sunday with the 3.25 tire up front.

Didn't have the air pressure gauge and had to pump up the tires mid ride (bike had sat idle a week) due to the slippery at times conditions making the front tire feel vague. After putting some air in, there was very good traction available for cornering and braking.

The i45 rim does improve traction.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Added a new pic to the lineup. If you have not seen the gallery of the pics yet, the link will be below.

If you have, please help yourself to seconds. None of these pics are edited, I don't practice that adobe witchcraft.

I will add pics with time.

https://goo.gl/photos/9rgGGPtjLdZfbVRP6


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I just picked up a 2016 comp. The Fox shock would not hold air. The compression lever had clicks but would just spin! The shop sent it to Fox and I got a shock back that works great. So you may want to get that looked at.


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## M3Roc (Jun 22, 2016)

Just a few. I don't have photoshop so just pretend the colors and shading are perfectly done... :thumbsup:


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## syl3 (Apr 23, 2008)

hope brakes are sick


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## Morgan Kane (Nov 17, 2016)

Tired of pedal strikes, I decided to modify my '16 Fattie. 
First step was stretching the fork to 160mm, and replacing the upper shock bushing with a 3mm offset bushing. This mod added approximately 8mm of effective crank height. 

Next step was to add another 10 psi to the auto sag pressure in the shock. Less sag and better shock function, adding some mm to the crank height. 

Finally, I fitted an offset, adjustable bottom bracket and 5mm shorter GXP crank arms. 

The bottom bracket is now adjusted in neutral, rearward position, adding nothing but a steeper seat angle. Adjusted to a upward position, it will add about 10mm to the crank height. The other modifications has so far been sufficient, but I like the idea of having the flexibility of the adjustable BB.

The ride is now excellent, with very few pedal strikes.

Cheers!
Arild


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## piesoup (Feb 9, 2009)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I just picked up a 2016 comp. The Fox shock would not hold air. The compression lever had clicks but would just spin! The shop sent it to Fox and I got a shock back that works great. So you may want to get that looked at.


Just rang the LBS, not very helpful guy on the phone but they will send it back to Specialized. Only after I have ridden it over the holidays!


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## thegock (Jan 21, 2014)

misterdangerpants said:


> I also went with some riser bars, Answer ProTaper 750. Also slapped a Truvativ Stylo T40 seat post on (the carbon version is now on my fat bike). I also am able to use a lovely original Flite saddle (ca. 1995); too harsh for my previous hard tails but comfy with the cushion on both ends. Still fine tuning the cockpit and the stem is at 70mm. Just perfect. Looking to replace the tires soon. So far, this bike just keeps on making me smile.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That picture looks like NJ. Maybe Al Weirdeye?


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## rsilvers (Aug 23, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> New 2016 is $2699. Demo 2016 is $2499. New 17 is $2899.


That is nuts. The demo 2016 should be about 40% off.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Been riding with a 3.25 Vtrax front tire for a few weeks now. Very happy with the set up. Mounted on i45 Scrapers this and the rear 3.0 Purgatory have proven to be amazing over the sloppy Norcal terrain of late. I was initially concerned about using these wide tires in muddy conditions, but convenience forced me to use them, instead of the 29er set.

The 3.25 raises the front end of the bike, and the bottom bracket a wee and welcome bit. I am blown away by the traction and roll over anything character of the tire. I have made lines and moves that I once thought were not possible.

The other change made at the same time was the Sunrace 11-46 cassette. This is a good product and it works. I have pulled some hail Mary climbing shifts under load and no complaints. The cassette is earning more trust. No bent sprockets.

Climbing on the 6fattie set up like this continues to be a lot of fun. I find I can use more or all of the width of a trail such that I am making nearly all difficult climbing switchbacks, rutted Rocky rooty and steep. Not expecting any KOMs on this beast though.

A new kind of trials riding, in a way.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

^ I run the Vee on my rear and love it! Great here out in the southwest, Las Vegas, Sedona, Moab area. Ate it all up! I have a 3.0 though. 

My fattie came to life today guys! I had the chance to demo the DVO boost fork on my 6fattie comp. WOW! The bike is a new bike. The amount of traction in corners and the speed I am able to carry now has greatly improved. The thing just makes the tires literally STICK! So of course I ended up buying one. Not only is the ride way better, it eats up everything, is super quiet, and has 170mm travel. Mine is set at 160 currently. 

If you are looking for a suspension upgrade for this bike, I highly recommend this. It makes my 34 feel rigid. I hit one drop on a new trail today that would have put my rear tire in the air from the force to the fork on the Fox, but the DVO sucked it up beautifully!


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

First outing on the new wheelset, although I wasn't able to put them to a true test, I was able to get the stans all sloshed around in them.


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## Irrichardson (Sep 3, 2010)

*What is this rubbery strip meant for?*









What's this rubbery sticky on one side strip meant to do and where does it go? Thanks.

sam


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## mjbike (Oct 12, 2016)

My guess is on the chain stay to protect from chain slap?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Irrichardson said:


> View attachment 1113221
> 
> 
> What's this rubbery sticky on one side strip meant to do and where does it go? Thanks.
> ...


Inside upper chainstay on right side above the cassette - used to prevent excessive chain-slap. It's actually 3M Waterproof Electrical tape. I have a few rolls in my toolbox, but this was a nice surprise gift with the bike.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Mine went back to the dealer. I got the bike back just before Christmas. No time to ride and a foot of snow too. Finally got it out new years day. Shock had zero psi. Pumped it up and did a quick ride (1hr). Checked the shock this morning and it was flat again. This is rather frustrating. I dont have 20 miles on the bike yet. At least they fixed the compression lever...


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

rsilvers said:


> That is nuts. The demo 2016 should be about 40% off.


I thought the same thing. Lol! I thought my new one was a good deal though. Well, if the shock ever holds air. Lol


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

My headset bearing keeps on making a creaking noise!


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

don1 said:


> My headset bearing keeps on making a creaking noise!


Mine too: when it is hot and dry it clicks. Hate that. All I probably need to try is reinstall it with a generous greasing though.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Jack Burns said:


> Mine too: when it is hot and dry it clicks. Hate that. All I probably need to try is reinstall it with a generous greasing though.


Same problem here, I think it's the fork. Fox in known for that, mine is going in for warranty before the 1 year is up.

Creaky Stanchions and Steerer Tubes | Blue Liquid Labs


----------



## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Im looking at replacing the headset bearings but dont know what good aftermarket bearing most riders use!


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

don1 said:


> Im looking at replacing the headset bearings but dont know what good aftermarket bearing most riders use!


My headset kept creaking until I replaced it with Cane Creek. I was regreasing the stock one every other ride with minimal success. The stock bottom bearing felt a little crunchy within a couple hundred miles.


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

By chance can you still remember the cane creek part number? I got mine service a few months back then i regrease it after a few rides now its doing it again. Cant concentrate while riding because of the creaking noise!


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Nash04 said:


> Finally installed my 29+ wheel on the front and talk about a difference towards pedal striking or BB contact....no more. The bike rode real nice with the 29.


Did you change the fork or does 29+ fit inside the stock fork? What size and tire are you using? How good is the clearance?

And, how much more does it weigh?


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

don1 said:


> By chance can you still remember the cane creek part number? I got mine service a few months back then i regrease it after a few rides now its doing it again. Cant concentrate while riding because of the creaking noise!


Well at least you have an excuse to get some more bike bling!

My factory headset has not made so much as a peep how could I possibly justify a cool new headset?

I thought my bottom bracket was creaking a bit, but I tightened up the rear axle just a bit because it had worked loose, now its fine..no shiny new BB for me either.

I have the standard "poor-mans" Aluminum comp version...Thinking that a new rear Hope hub would be a nice upgrade. not too happy with the engagement on the standard hub.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Jack Burns said:


> Did you change the fork or does 29+ fit inside the stock fork? What size and tire are you using? How good is the clearance?
> 
> And, how much more does it weigh?


Stock Fox 34 fork and it fits properly, still have about 3/8" gap between arch and DW 3" tire. Can't tell you the weight since I don't have a scale but it's about the same as my 650 CB wheel with DW 3" tire installed.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dman7777 said:


> Well at least you have an excuse to get some more bike bling!
> 
> My factory headset has not made so much as a peep how could I possibly justify a cool new headset?
> 
> ...


Same here, no issues with my bike and did upgrade wheel to CB 50mm with Hope Pro 4 hub, sweet! They're still waiting for parts to fix the stock rear wheel, it's almost 4 months, good thing I had another wheel.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

Nash04 said:


> Same here, no issues with my bike and did upgrade wheel to CB 50mm with Hope Pro 4 hub, sweet! They're still waiting for parts to fix the stock rear wheel, it's almost 4 months, good thing I had another wheel.


Tell me more about the new rear wheel setup with the _Pro 4 hub_, is it a big difference?

Also the CB rim ..who is CB? ( maybe I am being dumb and you just mean carbon?)

I am also very intrigued by your 29+ front tire with the 27.5 rear, could you provide some feedback on your experience with that so far? You dont find the geometry of a 29+ on the front weird or anything?

Thanks


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

don1 said:


> By chance can you still remember the cane creek part number? I got mine service a few months back then i regrease it after a few rides now its doing it again. Cant concentrate while riding because of the creaking noise!


Sorry I don't, my local friend and shop did the ordering for me. If I can find the box I'll post it up


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Dman7777 said:


> Tell me more about the new rear wheel setup with the _Pro 4 hub_, is it a big difference?
> 
> Also the CB rim ..who is CB? ( maybe I am being dumb and you just mean carbon?)
> 
> ...


CB> Carbon Fiber, should have been LB>Light Bicycle rims. No more creaking sound and you can hear the bike coming with the Pro 4 hub  Can't really notice anything else that's different.
Can climb better with the 29+ front wheel and of course can go over obstacles easier due to the height been added to the BB and barely no more pedal striking.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

don1 said:


> By chance can you still remember the cane creek part number? I got mine service a few months back then i regrease it after a few rides now its doing it again. Cant concentrate while riding because of the creaking noise!


I posted part numbers earlier in this thread. Search.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

25 pages back...

The stock headset on specialized mtbs is garbage. I wouldn't bother with warranty as the replacement won't last long either.

I have replaced the headsets on a few of my specialized mtbs with this combo. It has been working very well:
Wheels Manufacturing 1-1/8" 45 x 45 degree Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bearing 30.2mm ID x 41.8mm OD
Wheels Manufacturing 1-1/8" 45 x 45 degree Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bearing 30.2mm ID x 41.8mm OD - AEBike.com

Cane Creek 110 IS52/40 Bottom Headset
Cane Creek 110 IS52/40 Bottom Headset - AEBike.com

Your LBS can order the exact parts via the part number on QBP. BB1754 + HD2017 

I too went through the same only not on the 6fattie but a 15 HT, both medium, although the medium fatboy I have the cane creek top worked fine, wonder if it has anything to do with the size of the headtube. So far I had no problems with the 6fattie, but I pulled them to check them out just a few nights and verified that they are the same as the HT. I had a left over FSA pro top bearing that I used but did find a 45X45 cane creek upper, part # HSS71001, I don't think it will work with the CC top though.


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## don1 (Mar 17, 2016)

Thanks for the part #. I end up getting wheels manufacturing stainless steel bearings, im going to order new bearings for spares.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I had a weird ticking noise on my last ride. I took it in to the shop to have them send in the shock for the second time. I noticed a missing tooth on the cassette! Ripped right off. I have less than 20 miles on the bike. Lol! I think I got a lemon.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I broke a tooth off the cassette of my 2016 6Fattie. I didn't think it was anything quality related, as I had ridden a series of trails with axle-high boulder fields the previous day. What was weird, however, is that the broken tooth was on the second cog, so it had to be a pretty precise hit to catch that. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Mine was on the 4th or 5th cog up. It is getting replaced. I have no explanation for it. Wierd.


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## mydogkoal (Feb 1, 2016)

I have a set of 50mm carbon 27.5 rims that I took off of my 6fattie. They have Hope pro 2 evo boost hubs. Looking to sell them for $600.


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## THOWEDMODE2323 (Mar 4, 2013)

*The 6Fattie*

Ex washed up motocross guy trying to do the best I can to have fun, I must say out of all the bikes I have owned this thing is just fun as s*** to ride. lots of good info on this thread, thank yall for sharing.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

mydogkoal said:


> I have a set of 50mm carbon 27.5 rims that I took off of my 6fattie. They have Hope pro 2 evo boost hubs. Looking to sell them for $600.


Do you have these listed on classifieds somewhere with pictures and more description?

Thanks


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

THOWEDMODE2323 said:


> Ex washed up motocross guy trying to do the best I can to have fun, I must say out of all the bikes I have owned this thing is just fun as s*** to ride. lots of good info on this thread, thank yall for sharing.
> 
> View attachment 1115052


 have never seen that color before..Wow! It is certainly eye-catching with the gold eagle drivetrain. Is that bike stock?


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## THOWEDMODE2323 (Mar 4, 2013)

Not sure what you mean by stock? This color only comes frame only, you have to build it up.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Just got off the phone with my LBS, my EVOL sleeve is in stock (I called fox to order it and they were VERY reluctant to do anything other than refer me to my LBS and give me the part numbers). I will hopefully be installing it this weekend along with my wheels and brakes and few other small things!!

Too bad it will be a few months until I can ride again when it warms up.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

crfnick56 said:


> Just got off the phone with my LBS, my EVOL sleeve is in stock (I called fox to order it and they were VERY reluctant to do anything other than refer me to my LBS and give me the part numbers). I will hopefully be installing it this weekend along with my wheels and brakes and few other small things!!
> 
> Too bad it will be a few months until I can ride again when it warms up.


Very interesting, did you just get the can itself, or any other parts? 
Did you pay the same through the LBS as others have mentioned directly from fox?
Overall how long did it take?

Thanks


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Dman7777 said:


> Very interesting, did you just get the can itself, or any other parts?
> Did you pay the same through the LBS as others have mentioned directly from fox?
> Overall how long did it take?
> 
> Thanks


I got the sleeve, the seal kit, and the heritage decal kit. It took a week to get here and I didn't even ask the price, I got a price from fox with the part numbers but the guy I talked to said they very much prefer that customers use their LBS so I gave them a call.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Hey 

New member to this forum, been watching this thread and found alot of good information 

Bought a Stumpjumper 6fattie (alu) last yeat, the 2017 version, all black, love the bike, it gives smiles on my face every time when hitting the trails.

And as with everything else the urge to upgrade is always there 

So im looking for some information about fitting 45mm or 50mm rims on the bike, it comes with the Roval 29mm, and i see alot of plp running the wtb i45 rims.

So, can anyone give a tip for a partslist what i need, is there a quick a dirty way that dont give a big hole in my wallet?

And i guess i need to post a picture on my bike also


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

jonasnyman said:


> Hey
> 
> New member to this forum, been watching this thread and found alot of good information
> 
> ...


I got my wheels built from Cycle Wheels USA in New York for a good price. I haven't got them mounted yet but they look awesome. Hope pro4 hubs with WTB i40 rims all laced up, trued, and tubeless ready!!


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

I was able to put on an oval Absolute Black 26T (to replace the 28T round that comes with the 2017 model - I'm old and lots of hills....). I took off the chainstay protector and replaced it (via epoxy) with a piece of 1/16" G10 material of the same size to give me more clearance and it works on all gears without rubbing. Here is a picture.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

crfnick56 said:


> I got my wheels built from Cycle Wheels USA in New York for a good price. I haven't got them mounted yet but they look awesome. Hope pro4 hubs with WTB i40 rims all laced up, trued, and tubeless ready!!


Their web site is not working. How did you get in touch with them?


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

It was a couple of weeks ago, but I bought from a local dealer


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Nash04 said:


> Their web site is not working. How did you get in touch with them?


I contacted them through their facebook page. I sent them a message and they replied pretty quick.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Anyone know which rear axle the 6F uses? It looks like a Syntace X-12. Am I correct? I want to switch to a bolt through.

If it is a Syntace...will this axle work? 
https://www.amazon.com/Syntace-X-12-System-Rear-Thru-Axle/dp/B016W8PL1G

Thx.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

jonasnyman said:


> Hey
> 
> New member to this forum, been watching this thread and found alot of good information
> 
> ...


The Easton Arc 40 and DT Swiss XM 551 can be had for about $100 each, and are solid and reasonably light alloy rims, too. Unless you are looking for higher engagement, the Hope hubs provide great bang for your buck.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Plusforever (Oct 5, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Inside upper chainstay on right side above the cassette - used to prevent excessive chain-slap. It's actually 3M Waterproof Electrical tape. I have a few rolls in my toolbox, but this was a nice surprise gift with the bike.


Actually I believe it is 3M 2228 Scotch Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Hey guys, this is my first bike with SRAM drivetrain and I was considering swapping to Shimano XT before riding season comes back. I never quite liked the feel of the GX stuff on my 2016 comp but have a few questions. I've never got into serious work on drivetrain other than simple adjustments and things like that so I'm a little iffy about swapping crankset and bottom brackets and stuff, not to mention there are so many different options. I'm assuming going from SRAM to Shimano I will need to swap bottom brackets, right? Which one would I need to pair up to the XT cranks? I'm ok with the actual shifter/derailleur work but the crank/BB is where I get a little confused. Any help would be appreciated.


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

What chainring did you use (part number), I can't find a cinched, 3 mm boost spacing, 26t oval for my stumpy.


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

So I replaced my 10-42 cassette last month with the e*thirteen extended range 9-46. Easy install if you have tools and really gave me some relief in the climbs plus a nice increase in high end gearing. Only had to adjust the b tension and low limiter. 

As for the performance I can barely tell the difference in shifting between this and the stock cassette, the only difference I could remotely feels is like a hundredth of a second slower shifting into the 46 ring if I do it under power.This is a must do mod if you climb a lot.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

jonasnyman said:


> Hey
> 
> New member to this forum, been watching this thread and found alot of good information
> 
> ...


Sweet rear fender. Where did you get it? Thanks


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

crfnick56 said:


> Hey guys, this is my first bike with SRAM drivetrain and I was considering swapping to Shimano XT before riding season comes back. I never quite liked the feel of the GX stuff on my 2016 comp but have a few questions. I've never got into serious work on drivetrain other than simple adjustments and things like that so I'm a little iffy about swapping crankset and bottom brackets and stuff, not to mention there are so many different options. I'm assuming going from SRAM to Shimano I will need to swap bottom brackets, right? Which one would I need to pair up to the XT cranks? I'm ok with the actual shifter/derailleur work but the crank/BB is where I get a little confused. Any help would be appreciated.


If the XT crank has the 24mm spindle, good opportunity to install a Wheels Mfg eccentric BB and get some pedal clearance. Just did mine with the Raceface Aeffect, crank that has the 24mm spindle. Pretty easy job and I am no bike mechanic.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Twimby said:


> If the XT crank has the 24mm spindle, good opportunity to install a Wheels Mfg eccentric BB and get some pedal clearance. Just did mine with the Raceface Aeffect, crank that has the 24mm spindle. Pretty easy job and I am no bike mechanic.


Honestly pedal strikes haven't been an issue for me so I don't see any need to go that route.

What BB does the frame use?

Also, unrelated but does anyone have a part number for the rear derailleur hanger? I would like to pick up a spare.


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## pucelano (Oct 17, 2009)

I'm seriously considering buying the same model--only in red.
How do you like the Revelation fork? And the rims?


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

robgdds said:


> What chainring did you use (part number), I can't find a cinched, 3 mm boost spacing, 26t oval for my stumpy.


I used this:
absoluteBLACK | Race Face OVAL BOOST cinch chainring


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

Thank you, ordering now


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

crfnick56 said:


> Honestly pedal strikes haven't been an issue for me so I don't see any need to go that route.
> 
> What BB does the frame use?
> 
> Also, unrelated but does anyone have a part number for the rear derailleur hanger? I would like to pick up a spare.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

berwick said:


> I used this:
> absoluteBLACK | Race Face OVAL BOOST cinch chainring


Can you tell a difference with the oval chainring?


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## robgdds (Aug 14, 2016)

I have one on my 27 pitch and the difference is subtle but one slow long climbs I was a little better. 

Another thing, my wife hardly ever rides but one day we took a day trip out to sedona, she used my pitch with a 32 AB oval and was struggling all day with the climbs but make it. 

We went back 2 weeks later with a group of friend and I swapped her out to a 30T round chainring thinking it was going to make things easier for her, I didn't tell her I changed it. To my surprise she couldn't make it up the stuff she did 2 weeks earlier on the BIGGER oval ring.


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

Well I went from the round 28T to the oval 26T (which is like a 24T in spots). I've only done one ride on it (winter here in Nova Scotia...) and I made a loose rocky steep hill for the first time after in trying it 4 times before - so that was better! Definitely easier up the steep stuff but of course it is down to a 24T ring at times. I can't say that I notice a difference with the oval vice the round but I do believe that stuff I would climb would be in a harder ring (taking into a account the new size) than normal, if that makes sense. Going out for a night ride tonight on trails I am more familiar with and may have a better idea then. Definitely does not feel weird or non round when pedalling which is good. I think the only way to really know is to change a 28T round with a 30T oval (which is 28T in spots) and do your normal climbs and see how it is. I wanted a couple notches easier so that is 
why I went to the 26T so I am sort of comparing apples to oranges I think.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Nash04 said:


> Sweet rear fender. Where did you get it? Thanks


Hey 

Im using 2 of this, fits nice on the stumpjumper, front and back

DEFLECTOR LITE M - ZEFAL


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Sweet, Thanks


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

PM me if anybody is interested in buying my OEM 29mm wheels. Cassette not included. Will post it in the Classifieds section once I can clean them up.


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

Ok, I am liking the oval ring, I was able to make it up steep loose stuff without spinning out so I feel the rear wheel must be smoother and less choppy?


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

berwick said:


> Ok, I am liking the oval ring, I was able to make it up steep loose stuff without spinning out so I feel the rear wheel must be smoother and less choppy?


My first bike back in 89 had that shimano biopace, fun to see it coming back!


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## tfinator (Apr 30, 2009)

TEvans73 said:


> My first bike back in 89 had that shimano biopace, fun to see it coming back!


The current oval rings are offset at a different angle than biopace to provide a different benefit.


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## berwick (Jan 17, 2017)

The new ones work at different angles or timings than the old biopace ones which are supposed to make them more effective.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The new ones are nothing like biopace. They actually do work quite well and it seems most my buddies are switching to them. No issues with chain drop either.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

berwick said:


> Ok, I am liking the oval ring, I was able to make it up steep loose stuff without spinning out so I feel the rear wheel must be smoother and less choppy?


Same here. Went riding this past weekend thru some muddy areas and had no issue climbing hills. 
These trails are not sanctioned and basically a no-no but we ride them especially when all the parks are close.


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## atvkilla (Nov 13, 2008)

To those of you who had shock noise issues, were they ever solved? I have a 2016 comp carbon and after a couple hundred miles, I started to notice a pronounced clicking/knocking sound and feel when the shock gets compressed. It travels through the frame but definitely seems to originate from the shock. Bike shop suggested it was normal but it does not seem right to me nor have any of my other FS bikes had this knocking feel and sound.

Anybody else have a rear shock that seems to have audible knocking/thunking sounds when starting through it's cycle? At first I thought it was the dropper post moving but it's not.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Hey guys, quick question. On the stock Roval wheels, can the driver be replaced to run shimano cassette? I am trying to sell my stock wheels to a friend that has Shimano and I am at work so I can't check the wheels at the moment.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Ditto ^


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all,
Anyone here with the SWORKS 6Fattie looking to sell their Roval SL carbon boosted wheel set with 30mm internal width rims? Please PM me. Thanks.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

*Stumpjumper Carbon 6fattie Expert*

I saw what I consider a really great deal on a Bike today.
If anyone is looking for a medium 2016 Stumpjumper EXPERT carbon 6FATTIE.
brand new in the bike shop black and red.

MSRP = $6500
Sale price - $3200

give Livermore Cyclery in livermore CA a call if your interested... I wish I needed a medium.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Dman7777 said:


> I saw what I consider a really great deal on a Bike today.
> If anyone is looking for a medium 2016 Stumpjumper EXPERT carbon 6FATTIE.
> brand new in the bike shop black and red.
> 
> ...


That's a great deal!


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## OldManBiker (Nov 5, 2016)

I tried looking on their website (Livermore) and couldn't find it. Could you post it here for us please?


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

Yeah I looked at the website too, and they don't have it.

I was physically in the shop today, and that's how I saw it. 
I guess you will need to call them sorry.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Anyone know if a Vee Trax Fatty (27.5 x 3.25) will fit in the rear?


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## unicorn_violence (Jan 30, 2017)

had a chance to ride the 2017 stumpjumper fattie while in Salida CO this weekend. wow! plus tires make a huge difference in grip and im totally hooked. i was able to climb way easier compared to my trek fuel which was interesting. i was also surprised on the long travel in the front. this bike eats up big drops and rocks with no issues at all. this is probably going to be my next bike purchase. it looks like only the base model comes in XXL though which is a bummer (i'm 6ft 5). since this seems to be the only long travel + bike though, it might be worth to buy base and then upgrade the components over time.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

I think about buying a SJ 6 fattie to replace my Transition Smuggler. Does anyone have the (XL) frame weight?

Best regards


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

While this isn't just the frame weight it is the weight of XL Expert and XL S-works without the wheels on.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

unicorn_violence said:


> had a chance to ride the 2017 stumpjumper fattie while in Salida CO this weekend. wow! plus tires make a huge difference in grip and im totally hooked. i was able to climb way easier compared to my trek fuel which was interesting. i was also surprised on the long travel in the front. this bike eats up big drops and rocks with no issues at all. this is probably going to be my next bike purchase. it looks like only the base model comes in XXL though which is a bummer (i'm 6ft 5). since this seems to be the only long travel + bike though, it might be worth to buy base and then upgrade the components over time.


I'm 6'4" and ride the XL, even put a shorter stem on it. Fit is a bit personal, but I'm very happy with the fit.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

unicorn_violence said:


> had a chance to ride the 2017 stumpjumper fattie while in Salida CO this weekend. wow! plus tires make a huge difference in grip and im totally hooked. i was able to climb way easier compared to my trek fuel which was interesting. i was also surprised on the long travel in the front. this bike eats up big drops and rocks with no issues at all. this is probably going to be my next bike purchase. it looks like only the base model comes in XXL though which is a bummer (i'm 6ft 5). since this seems to be the only long travel + bike though, it might be worth to buy base and then upgrade the components over time.


I think the wheels are probably the upgrade that would have the most benefit. The Hub engagement is not that great, and the rims are a bit narrow for a 3" tire. That being said even the lowly ALU comp is a hell of a fun bike, and is pretty well spec'ed considering the price.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

Murchman said:


> While this isn't just the frame weight it is the weight of XL Expert and XL S-works without the wheels on.
> 
> View attachment 1118730
> View attachment 1118731


Sorry but that doesnt help at all. Anyone else?

I assume the Stumpjumper is more linear depending the rear suspension compared to the smuggler, right?

Is there a diference in the shock tune because of the heavier plus-wheels/tires?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Guess what I got today...









- Matte blue finish (looks like Park Tool blue)
- Top is clear coated carbon
- Tires are BRAND NEW Purgatory's front/rear with updated sidewalls.


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## Dman7777 (Sep 26, 2016)

Sick color


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## shemers (Apr 22, 2010)

*Chain popping*

Has anyone else noticed weird chain popping or skipping. Is this a "feature" of 11-speed drive trains, or boost chainlines? I have a 2016 comp carbon. I broke my first chain with about 100 miles on the bike. I replaced it with a SRAM chain. This one is better about not dropping gears when back pedalling, but I still get chain pops. Also, I think the chain pops tend to be in the middle gears, not the big cogs. I keep my chain clean and well lubed, and my derailleur in adjustment.


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## atvkilla (Nov 13, 2008)

shemers said:


> Has anyone else noticed weird chain popping or skipping. Is this a "feature" of 11-speed drive trains, or boost chainlines? I have a 2016 comp carbon. I broke my first chain with about 100 miles on the bike. I replaced it with a SRAM chain. This one is better about not dropping gears when back pedalling, but I still get chain pops. Also, I think the chain pops tend to be in the middle gears, not the big cogs. I keep my chain clean and well lubed, and my derailleur in adjustment.


I have same bike and had a similar intermittent issue with chain noise. It turned out to be a bad hub with lots of play so I think the hub/cassette movement was causing the noise. It took 2 warrantied hubs to fix the issue. I do not notice any noise now.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

atvkilla said:


> I have same bike and had a similar intermittent issue with chain noise. It turned out to be a bad hub with lots of play so I think the hub/cassette movement was causing the noise. It took 2 warrantied hubs to fix the issue. I do not notice any noise now.


Ditto ^ Hub was replace once so far but haven't had a chance to test it since I have my other wheels installed at this moment.


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## mtlcafan79 (Sep 19, 2016)

My fuse does the same thing and the LBS attributed it to the loose ball bearing design of the OEM hub allowing things to flex under extreme load. We're upgrading to some DT 240's to see if that takes care of it for me.


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## BuFFy-ZA (Mar 29, 2011)

atvkilla said:


> I have same bike and had a similar intermittent issue with chain noise. It turned out to be a bad hub with lots of play so I think the hub/cassette movement was causing the noise. It took 2 warrantied hubs to fix the issue. I do not notice any noise now.


My Fuse was the same, replaced the hub with a Novatec and will test this weekend.

Wheel already feels better around the yard!


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## atvkilla (Nov 13, 2008)

The first hub got crunched on 3rd ride. It was a complete failure. The replacement loosened up within 20 miles, they tightened it four times, then agreed to replace again with the higher end Roval hub and wheel under warranty. 300 miles and it's been fine, chain noise is gone.


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## shemers (Apr 22, 2010)

I never considered that the popping could be the hub. It make sense though. Thanks for all the info. This forum is great!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Did the annual Stupor Bowl ride tradition with my buds.

I replaced my chain and cassette. Why is there a grinding sound when climbing/heavy torque? Normal riding doesn't make the noise. Any ideas?


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

Hub getting ready to go, maybe? 

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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Had that issue with mine and it was the XD free hub that was causing it which my LBS replace it under warranty.


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## Larsey (Jan 14, 2004)

***sold***


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Hey all, when doing some cleaning on my bike today i noticed that the scale on the stantion dont match the travel range, it´s sold and labaled as a 150mm, but i can only see that it´s 130mm, someone have a clue about this?

The Bike is a 6fattie Comp 2017 with the revalation fork


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Looks like your fork was shipped with the wrong air spring. I'd have dealer replace spring. However who knows what else is fugged on that fork.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Yea i will contact the dealer tomorrow, the fork has been working good tho


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Maybe the dealer could upgrade fork for small fee in exchange for your revelation. Like a pike. Wouldn't hurt to ask


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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

Put your shock pump on - make sure it's on the air valve all of the way - and try extending the fork by hand. It could be just a pressure issue with the negative spring that you need to equalise.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

phreeky said:


> Put your shock pump on - make sure it's on the air valve all of the way - and try extending the fork by hand. It could be just a pressure issue with the negative spring that you need to equalise.


My money's on this^^^. Have seen it before. Simple fix.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Thx for the replys, i will test and see if this helps


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Update, tested to release all the air and pump it up again, same issue, released the air, pumped upp to 150 on the fork pump, and then locked the wheel with my feets and pulled the bar, and air noise came from the fork and it then extended to 150mm, released the air again, and pumped up again, now it sits at 150mm as it should.

Contacted dealer about it and he will check with a specialized dude if he thinks there is something wrong with it.

Im sure it has been this from the day it was new, but now it´s all good, and the bike looks better with the longer fork


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## stumpynerd (Oct 8, 2012)

Well that's good to see you don't have the wrong air spring. I've never had that issue and have rebuilt several rock shox forks. The real test will be if it sags back down to 130 after a few rides. 

Wouldn't hurt to have dealer drop the lowers and inspect fork. 

By the way nice stumpy!


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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

I believe this occurs if you pump it up whilst it's compressed, however I think I've read something about it doing this if the seals between the chambers is bad (better off asking that question in the correct forum).

When you attach a pump it should join the positive and negative air chambers such that they're inflated to the same level, however some pumps may not push the valve in far enough - make sure you screw it on all of the way.

It can also be used as a neat trick to reduce your travel temporarily if desired.

I'm surprised they spec these things with a Rev. That's a tall fork and a whole lot of grip.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Thx 

Yea, the free 6 month service i have on it at the dealer is coming up soon, ill tell him i also want the fork inspected



stumpynerd said:


> Well that's good to see you don't have the wrong air spring. I've never had that issue and have rebuilt several rock shox forks. The real test will be if it sags back down to 130 after a few rides.
> 
> Wouldn't hurt to have dealer drop the lowers and inspect fork.
> 
> By the way nice stumpy!


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Has anyone done some measurements in the difference between tyre/wheel heights? Be interested to know the difference between a 3.0, 2.8, 2.6 and 2.3 tyres.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Its just air trapped on the negative side. Pretty common issue. Slide a small ziptie under the seal on each side and release the extra pressure. 

Specialized list the BB height changes based on the tire size. 
650b x 2.8 -325
650b x 3.0 -331
29 x 2.3 - 338 

on the standard 650b
2.3- 335
2.6- 340


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ricky, have you checked your derailleur hanger in a while? Otherwise might need to clean the star ratchet and threads on the XD driver?

Take care,
John


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Drevil said:


> ...I replaced my chain and cassette. Why is there a grinding sound when climbing/heavy torque? Normal riding doesn't make the noise. Any ideas?...


A worn front chainring can cause this as the chain pulls up on the teeth. We experienced it on two 6Fatties with SRAM rings (known to be "soft"). No wear was obvious visually, but replacing them with new RaceFace rings solved the problem. Easy to test if you have another good CR to try.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*What upgrade, if any*

Sold a bunch of stuff, and find myself with about 1k of "spouse sanctioned fun money". So now while training my butt off for the riding season here in CO, and doing some maintenance on my 2016 comp, that 1k is burning a hole in my pocket. Now I could go the way of power tools at Home Depot plus other random stuff, or I could do some upgrading to my orange comp. So the question is this, with a 1 k budget what upgrades to the stock 2016 comp would people think worthwhile?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Wheels, always wheels. You could get some Light Bicycle i40 carbon hoops with an Enduro layup and DT Swiss 350 or Hope hubs for $1,000. You'll have $300 burning a hole in your pocket some other day, and you can get some fancy bits then, but wheel upgrades make the biggest difference and require that you have a good chunk of change on hand.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Osco (Apr 4, 2013)

Drevil said:


> Did the annual Stupor Bowl ride tradition with my buds.
> 
> I replaced my chain and cassette. Why is there a grinding sound when climbing/heavy torque? Normal riding doesn't make the noise. Any ideas?


Stupor Bowl Video,, fantastic, Loved It,,, THAT Is good stuff..

Flip your bike over and do a line of sight down your chain line to see If that hanger is bent....

Check the distance between the top Jockey wheel and the cassette's granny ring(The Biggun),,, Should be about 4ish mm of clearance,, maybe 5mm

Next make sure Your chain line Is near center cassette or one cog up towards the bigger cassette gears,,You are running a 1x system right ?

Next remove your chain ring and clean all the ring bolts, paying special attention to the threads and all. Make this perfect, all sufaces surgical clean and re-assemble with blue loctite 

Check your bottom bracket and pedals and seat post and seat clamp....
New Cassette and chain,,did you try to get by with a crappy chain ring ?
You may have too much chain,,, unlikely but possible.


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

A couple questions for everyone who upgraded to the evol air can.
Did Fox recommend a re-valve? How do you remove the lower shock mount from the shock?
Thanks


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

levity said:


> A worn front chainring can cause this as the chain pulls up on the teeth.  We experienced it on two 6Fatties with SRAM rings (known to be "soft"). No wear was obvious visually, but replacing them with new RaceFace rings solved the problem. Easy to test if you have another good CR to try.


I put a new chain on my bike and the original front chain ring was super "crunchy" for a couple rides.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

mczen said:


> A couple questions for everyone who upgraded to the evol air can.
> Did Fox recommend a re-valve? How do you remove the lower shock mount from the shock?
> Thanks


No revalve needed. Just much higher air pressure to set sag.
The screw is tight! I clamped the yolk in a soft vice and used a 5mm hex on a socket wrench to break it loose.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Sold a bunch of stuff, and find myself with about 1k of "spouse sanctioned fun money". So now while training my butt off for the riding season here in CO, and doing some maintenance on my 2016 comp, that 1k is burning a hole in my pocket. Now I could go the way of power tools at Home Depot plus other random stuff, or I could do some upgrading to my orange comp. So the question is this, with a 1 k budget what upgrades to the stock 2016 comp would people think worthwhile?


Suspension man, my bike is a different beast now! This is a 16 comp 6fattie.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Hey Ivkid
A few questions
1) is that evol can in rear 
2) which fork is up front, how do you like it, is front a tad higher (I can always go slacker!)
3) what rims are you riding


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Fork & shock combo will be way more then the g you have that has most likely already fell out of the hole it burnt in your pocket. My vote would go to wheelset setup tubeless if you are not already. IMO this is the area that is most likely to fail and even though spesh will prob take care of it under warranty, that won't be any help when your miles away from your rig. Some pro4s laced to some 40 width or higher rims should set you back 600-700 leaving some leftover for maybe upgrading the shock or buying the wife something nice so she won't be as pissed when you lay down several grand on new suspension.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Hey Ivkid
> A few questions
> 1) is that evol can in rear
> 2) which fork is up front, how do you like it, is front a tad higher (I can always go slacker!)
> 3) what rims are you riding


1. Rear shock is a DVO Topaz just released for the stump jumper. It ROCKS!

2. I have the DVO diamond up front with 170mm travel however this is a 27.5 fork. The 29er 6fattie fork is 160 made by DVO. This fork has more travel. Because it's the 27.5 fork it seemed like my bb was 2mm closer to the ground however I think I only had the fork cycling 160 mm of travel at that time. According to DVO axle to crown on the 27.5 fork with 170mm travel is 572mm and the 29er fork for fattie with 160mm travel is 565mm axle to crown. Theoretically mine would push the angle with the more height on the 27.5 fork I would assume.

3. Runs are stock just added some stickers haha.. beat the crap out of these things and they keep on giving, not gonna change them until they fail.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

lvkid89 said:


> 1. Rear shock is a DVO Topaz just released for the stump jumper. It ROCKS!
> 
> 2. I have the DVO diamond up front with 170mm travel however this is a 27.5 fork. The 29er 6fattie fork is 160 made by DVO. This fork has more travel. Because it's the 27.5 fork it seemed like my bb was 2mm closer to the ground however I think I only had the fork cycling 160 mm of travel at that time. According to DVO axle to crown on the 27.5 fork with 170mm travel is 572mm and the 29er fork for fattie with 160mm travel is 565mm axle to crown. Theoretically mine would push the angle with the more height on the 27.5 fork I would assume.
> 
> 3. Runs are stock just added some stickers haha.. beat the crap out of these things and they keep on giving, not gonna change them until they fail.


Might have to check out this upgrade, my stock rear Fox is clicking


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

lvkid89 said:


> 1. Rear shock is a DVO Topaz just released for the stump jumper. It ROCKS!
> 
> 2. I have the DVO diamond up front with 170mm travel however this is a 27.5 fork. The 29er 6fattie fork is 160 made by DVO. This fork has more travel. Because it's the 27.5 fork it seemed like my bb was 2mm closer to the ground however I think I only had the fork cycling 160 mm of travel at that time. According to DVO axle to crown on the 27.5 fork with 170mm travel is 572mm and the 29er fork for fattie with 160mm travel is 565mm axle to crown. Theoretically mine would push the angle with the more height on the 27.5 fork I would assume.
> 
> 3. Runs are stock just added some stickers haha.. beat the crap out of these things and they keep on giving, not gonna change them until they fail.


Interesting, how much room you got with the 3.0s? I am considering moving the diamond from the surge over to the K-monk that I'll be building w/ 3.0s. I went the other way with the fork on the 6fattie, 27.5 150 travel, so decreased the atc by 13.5mm but brought the fork closer with the 44 offset. For those that are interested, the atc on the stock 6fattie fox is 555.5. Custom made Float X arrived today for my rig.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

SJEVO said:


> Fork & shock combo will be way more then the g you have that has most likely already fell out of the hole it burnt in your pocket. My vote would go to wheelset setup tubeless if you are not already. IMO this is the area that is most likely to fail and even though spesh will prob take care of it under warranty, that won't be any help when your miles away from your rig. Some pro4s laced to some 40 width or higher rims should set you back 600-700 leaving some leftover for maybe upgrading the shock or buying the wife something nice so she won't be as pissed when you lay down several grand on new suspension.


Still holding onto it! Oh for sure, went tubeless last season, running purgatorys front and back, and swapped to a 25 mm stem. Should have mentioned all that! I have been wondering what to 40 or more rims buys me. Typically I run 14 psi from and back.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Still holding onto it! Oh for sure, went tubeless last season, running purgatorys front and back, and swapped to a 25 mm stem. Should have mentioned all that! I have been wondering what to 40 or more rims buys me. Typically I run 14 psi from and back.


More tire width/contact patch and no tire roll.


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Levity, thank you for the information! ordered my evol can today, now just waiting for shipping info to be emailed. 
Thanks again for the info.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

With my stock front it was pretty close, granted I was running a fender too. With the new dirt wizard tire there is a decent amount of room. Fork does not hit tire at full compression and has the distance recommended when compressed. For me to spend 1k on a fork I wanted to get more than 10mm of travel so I went with this. I think the offset angle is why my BB might be just a tad lower, unless it was incorrect measurements. Next to my girls rhyme 6fattie my pedals were 2 mm lower though, I believe it was. But pedal strikes were a constant on this bike with this terrain out here anyways.. my BB never hits. Just pedals .


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

lvkid89 said:


> With my stock front it was pretty close, granted I was running a fender too. With the new dirt wizard tire there is a decent amount of room. Fork does not hit tire at full compression and has the distance recommended when compressed. For me to spend 1k on a fork I wanted to get more than 10mm of travel so I went with this. I think the offset angle is why my BB might be just a tad lower, unless it was incorrect measurements. Next to my girls rhyme 6fattie my pedals were 2 mm lower though, I believe it was. But pedal strikes were a constant on this bike with this terrain out here anyways.. my BB never hits. Just pedals .


thanks for the info, I'll have to throw the arc45 with trail boss on it this weekend and see what I'm working with.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

SJEVO said:


> More tire width/contact patch and no tire roll.


Or perhaps _less _tire roll. And of course this is what would be expected. I'm just wondering what people have experienced upgrading to a wider rim on the the 6F. It also gets me wondering why even with 2017 models spec has stuck to the same wheel set.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Cool the way you guys spot each other and practice technical moves!


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

lvkid89 said:


> With my stock front it was pretty close, granted I was running a fender too. With the new dirt wizard tire there is a decent amount of room. Fork does not hit tire at full compression and has the distance recommended when compressed. For me to spend 1k on a fork I wanted to get more than 10mm of travel so I went with this. I think the offset angle is why my BB might be just a tad lower, unless it was incorrect measurements. Next to my girls rhyme 6fattie my pedals were 2 mm lower though, I believe it was. But pedal strikes were a constant on this bike with this terrain out here anyways.. my BB never hits. Just pedals .


Cant find the old "bead to bead" thread that listed it, but how does the DW seem compare to the Purgatory or GC in size?


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

*Offset shock bushings*

I haven't really heard much report from those who have installed offset shock bushings to raise the rear end. I am interested in doing that, but I wonder how much I can offset. How much space do I need to leave between the yoke and the seat tube at rest? Can it spring back enough to contact?

I have the Monarch shock with an alloy frame, but I assume all other configurations should be similar.

Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Cant find the old "bead to bead" thread that listed it, but how does the DW seem compare to the Purgatory or GC in size?


Dirt Wizard is slightly smaller than Purgs, but it's heavier. The softer compound would be nice, however.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-tire-bead-bead-measurements-972235.html

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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Drevil said:


> Did the annual Stupor Bowl ride tradition with my buds.
> 
> I replaced my chain and cassette. Why is there a grinding sound when climbing/heavy torque? Normal riding doesn't make the noise. Any ideas?


OMG, I just replaced my chain after 300 or so miles. (maybe less??) and I'm getting that same grinding sounds. I did not replace either the cassette or chain ring but thoroughly cleaned both.

The bike was just tuned up (I just didn't have them replace the chain because I had one ready to go) and it is still shifting well but now under torque it makes that "grinding noise" and you can feel vibration in the pedals. I brought it into the shop and the guy took it for a ride but couldn't re-produce (didn't put it under enough torque). But I rode it again and told him it was still there.

He suggested that I ride it for a few rides and as long as it's not slipping on me, to see what happens.

My guess is that the chain was stretched enough to wear my chain ring, cassette enough to make this noise but not enough to slip. My through it that it will stretch my new chain and the noise will go away after a few weeks??? ... If that is what actually happens I'll have to replace the cassette and chain ring the next time.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

6Fattie Owners. Aside from waiting for my Lyrik RCT3 to ship from RS in a couple days, my new '17 Expert Carbon 29 build is complete and I gotta say, Specialized knocked it out of the park on this bike. It's a hoot! I'd like to have a 650Plus wheelset as well. I see Specialized specs a 650x3.0 tire on a 29mm internal Roval rim with their complete Expert build. Would there be consensus here that the 29mm, actually 30mm RF Arc in my possible case, is suitable to support good performance of a 3.0 tire or even a 2.8? I ask because I have available to me a nice custom wheelset with the 30mm hoop at a price well below what I can build it for. I'm currently running a new Arc35 9'r which profiles my 2.35 Schwalbes very well at 2.5".


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Wheel width really does depend on your riding style. I personally didnt care for the performance of 3.0 tires on 30mm rims and switch to 2.8 on 38mm rims. My wife however have no problem the 3.0 tires on 30mm rims and the lighter weight over similarly priced wider rims helps with climbing.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have got the pedals around 25mm or an inch higher now 
Wheels EBB, 170mm crank and Vee Trax Fattys
The Fattys are big tyres, I measured them against the GC, 14mm overall taller on the stock Rovals. New Easton 40mm coming


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Twimby said:


> Vee Trax Fattys


Is that a Vee Trax Fatty 3.25 on the rear?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

misterdangerpants said:


> Is that a Vee Trax Fatty 3.25 on the rear?


Yes. Fits fine


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Will they update the 6fattie for 2018?


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Derek200 said:


> Will they update the 6fattie for 2018?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Update how so? What would you want to see different?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Good question. I have the orange comp model from last year. I love the fork. I love the three inch tires. I love the stack as it's seems like it's easier on my back. And I actually like the narrower rims. It just seemed like the bike wasn't built as a fattie but fattie was an after thought. I do get a lot of pedal strikes but to fix it I realize I'd lose that in the bike feeling. But just wondering if you were redesigning if they would raise the bb at all, or shorten the chainstays at all. Or build it so 3 inches was widest tire where as now I think it'll take 3.25. Just curious what the next generation of plus bikes will look like. 


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Also curious if a good bike designer would change the rear kinematic to complement the plus tires more. The bike is super plush. Am wondering if I can reduce pedal strikes by playing with my rear shock at all...


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Interesting thoughts. As I think I mentioned above, I'm running mine as a 29'r since I had a brand new set of Arc 35 on hope pro4's JUST built for my singlespeed. I just Boostinated the hubs to get me by since this bike was quite a surprise due to a warranty. So far as a 9'r, pedal strikes aren't an issue but I'm finally almost able to get on my usual tech trails now that we have a rain break. I'm interested to see how it works there. I'm very impressed with the geo on this bike as it's the best fitting Large frame I have ever encountered from my perspective. Cockpit length, CG, so much about it just has me in the prime spot in the bike. I'm very curious to see how that works with a fattie set-up.

Are the hoops you have 29mm? What characteristic about them do you like at that size?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Mine are 29mm ID. I have been running the front tire around 10-11 psi and the rear at about 16. I occasionally pump the rear to 17 if I am ona faster trail. I just hear people talking about how terrible the narrow rims are and haven't felt the same way. I think a lot of people over reverse re engineer things in their heads about rim width. The rounded tire just seems to work. I'm in Arkansas. So maybe in other trail conditions they are less ideal but I like them. If I had wider rims maybe they'd be better but not sure I'd notice too much. I like how they eat up the loose chunks of rock on every trail around here. Gives me more confidence. I love the fox 34 150mm fork although I think there are some tokens in there as I have never actually used even close to all of the travel. It's a fun bike. I bought it for my wife . So. I have to by myself a bike and have been kinda waiting to see if any design improvements come for plus bikes. The mojo3 looks good. But it still doesn't feel like a ground up design for 3 inch meat. Have ridden the switchblade but the demo guy had like 30 psi in the tires so I hated it. I kept stopping and letting air out and never got it right. 

3 inch tires are where it's at for me. I am mediocre in the skill department. So. This helps. 


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Derek200 said:


> ... I have to by myself a bike and have been kinda waiting to see if any design improvements come for plus bikes. The mojo3 looks good. But it still doesn't feel like a ground up design for 3 inch meat. Have ridden the switchblade but the demo guy had like 30 psi in the tires so I hated it...


3" tires will not fit in the back of the Ibis Mojo 3 or HD3. 2.8" is the limit.

Regarding Pivot bikes, the Mach 429Trail will also accept 3" tires (WTB Ranger, Specialized Purgatory, Schwalbe Rocket Ron). The clearance in the back is close (apx 3mm each side) but works fine except in muddy conditions where 2.8" tires are safer.


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

Yeah. I also read that a lot of mojo3 bikes were having issues where the tire would rub at full compression plus some rear triangle flex or something and the fact that they claim it was designed for the one tire. So I'm kinda waiting on sideline riding "my wife's" bike


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I happend to ride with, and at a few points, behind a new Mojo 3 yesterday. The guy loves his 2.8 Nics front and back but I noticed while following on a slow climb, there was absolutely no more room for more tire between the seatstays. Not sure how wide his factory rims were.


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## misterdangerpants (Oct 10, 2007)

Twimby said:


> Yes. Fits fine


Great thanks! Just ordered a pair.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Derek200 said:


> Mine are 29mm ID. I have been running the front tire around 10-11 psi and the rear at about 16. I occasionally pump the rear to 17 if I am ona faster trail. I just hear people talking about how terrible the narrow rims are and haven't felt the same way. I think a lot of people over reverse re engineer things in their heads about rim width. The rounded tire just seems to work. I'm in Arkansas. So maybe in other trail conditions they are less ideal but I like them. If I had wider rims maybe they'd be better but not sure I'd notice too much. I like how they eat up the loose chunks of rock on every trail around here. Gives me more confidence. I love the fox 34 150mm fork although I think there are some tokens in there as I have never actually used even close to all of the travel. It's a fun bike. I bought it for my wife . So. I have to by myself a bike and have been kinda waiting to see if any design improvements come for plus bikes. The mojo3 looks good. But it still doesn't feel like a ground up design for 3 inch meat. Have ridden the switchblade but the demo guy had like 30 psi in the tires so I hated it. I kept stopping and letting air out and never got it right.
> 
> 3 inch tires are where it's at for me. I am mediocre in the skill department. So. This helps.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, I myself can't seem get completely clear on this. So I get the expected benefit for increased rim size: less tire squirm, better side wall support for lower pressures, slight increase contact patch etc. But what is less clear to me is what peolple have actually experienced in the comparing wider rim choices over the stock setup. The other thing that is curious is Specialized's choice. Consider the 2017 S Works, where no expense is spared, if larger rims were a clear improvement, why wouldn't they spec them that way?


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## Derek200 (Jun 16, 2015)

My guess is that there are a handful of people who have been able to ride jthebsame tire on multiple rims. But most probably have not. So a lot of comments seem to be armchair engineering. Also the tire and rim width thing started with like 19-20 mm rims. So tires would seem to be designed to be rounded to engage cornering knobs etc. if you flatten out a tire that was designed to be rounded I'm not sure how hard good?

Either way, with all the discussion I would hope tires begin to be designed for a specific range of rim widths. 


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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

You don't need to ride the same tyre to compare, just fit them. For example I've fit a 2.6 Nobby Nic to both a 25mm and 29mm IW rim and at 15psi, just trying to roll it off the rim by hand there is a noticeable difference. At the same time however I'm also not a fan of squaring a tyre up too much, so it's a balancing act.


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## lvkid89 (Jul 17, 2015)

Twimby said:


> I have got the pedals around 25mm or an inch higher now
> Wheels EBB, 170mm crank and Vee Trax Fattys
> The Fattys are big tyres, I measured them against the GC, 14mm overall taller on the stock Rovals. New Easton 40mm coming


Is there a large difference between the 175 and 170 cranks? I have been debating about going 170 to help reduce some pedal strikes. Is there a noticeable pedal change while pedaling?

Thanks!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

lvkid89 said:


> Is there a large difference between the 175 and 170 cranks? I have been debating about going 170 to help reduce some pedal strikes. Is there a noticeable pedal change while pedaling?
> 
> Thanks!


I made the change last year on Expert Carbon Evo 26. My motivation was from reading about stopping knee pain by reducing crank length so I went from 175 to 170 and it was successful at doing 2 desirable things. My offending left knee pain was virtually eliminated during the period I was on 170, and pedal strikes were few and far between. Nearly eliminated. The problem I discovered after about a month of regular riding with 170's was I felt like I was somehow losing fitness. I was having some trouble with my regular technical rocky climbs without really stepping up my game where I hadn't had issues before. I was beginning to attribute it to aging and my fitness. I was just about to hand my 175's over to a friend for his build and got a wild hair and decided to try them, again. Knee pain returned at about the 10 mile mark exactly as before. I was back to hitting rock, but my techie climbing output was right where it was before. It was eye opening that 5mm could make such a significant difference. I would have to now question whether that would be the same result for a 9'r or 650b+ with their easier rolling capabilities. Now that I have one, I may pick up a 170 again and give it a try.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Just a bit of info I learned today about internal rim width and Schwalbe Plus tire sizing. I'm acquiring all my build components for a plus build. I contacted Schwalbe and asked them what was the optimal internal rim diameter they determined when designing their 2.8 and 3.0 Nobby Nics. The response was that they determined the 40mm internal was the most optimal for a 3.0 tire and 35 was optimal for the 2.8 and even the 2.6. They even suggested the benefits of 35mm on 2.35's which I can attest to having a Hans Dampf and Nobby Nic 2.35 on my new ARC35 29'r build and the same tires in 26" on my 32mm internal carbon hoops. The consensus was that the 35mm is the best catch-all or utilitarian from 2.35 to 3.0. Soooooo.....I bought another set of ARC35 hoops today.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

lvkid89 said:


> Is there a large difference between the 175 and 170 cranks? I have been debating about going 170 to help reduce some pedal strikes. Is there a noticeable pedal change while pedaling?
> 
> Thanks!


Not that I have noticed. Only thing that changed with the combination of EBB and shorter pedals, my seat was too low in the old position, and had to raise a couple of cm


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

Twimby said:


> I have got the pedals around 25mm or an inch higher now
> Wheels EBB, 170mm crank and Vee Trax Fattys
> The Fattys are big tyres, I measured them against the GC, 14mm overall taller on the stock Rovals. New Easton 40mm coming


How do like the VTFs compared to stock setup, and how do they ride on the stock Rovals?


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

Jpcannavo said:


> How do like the VTFs compared to stock setup, and how do they ride on the stock Rovals?


To qualify this I am far from an expert and only have one proper ride on them

On the pavement, they felt stickier than my Fatboy tyres
In the hills, they climbed OK. Downhill held a nice line and grippy
Summer here and trails are dusty and gravelly. I did get one PR that was set in 2014.

Set up fine and felt good on the stock rims. A lot stiffer, I could not pull them on, without a lever. I put one on the wrong way and took 3 levers to get off.

They are a big tyre and feel a bit more Fat bikish. Nice not having a muddy slime from sweat and dust mix like the Spec tyres always have.


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## Jpcannavo (Sep 4, 2015)

*Rim/wheels upgrades*

Thanks Twimby! Reading through various posts in this and other threads, still trying to get a better sense of what rims/tire upgrades on the 6fattie have worked best. Was tempted start a new thread, but first looking to see if enough responses can be generated here. So, to those who have made rim and or tire changes, what have you found?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

My combination is 29 X 50mm with DW 3" tire on the front and 650B X 50mm with GC 3" tire on the rear and really love the way the bike rides.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Thanks Twimby! Reading through various posts in this and other threads, still trying to get a better sense of what rims/tire upgrades on the 6fattie have worked best. Was tempted start a new thread, but first looking to see if enough responses can be generated here. So, to those who have made rim and or tire changes, what have you found?


I bought my StumpJumper 6fattie at the end of last summer and rode about 300 or so miles on it so far. I still have the stock Purgatory front and GC rear 3.0 tires on the stock i29 rims and have found the rim width to be fine. I'm just over 200 lb (210 with full pack with water, etc...) and have slowly reduced tire pressures to about 18psi rear and 16 front. I've tried lower but found these pressures give me good traction on my trails and no rim strikes. this pressure works good for both cross country trails and also some "downhill" type trails with roughly 3 foot drops. I've not felt the tires roll at all landing jumps or hitting berms (or at any other time) and the rounded profile of the tires allows the bike to transition into corners real well.

I've not tried a wider rim but I don't think I would want to square the tire profile off and impact the ability to easily transition to leaning the bike over on it's side knobs. I think I might be willing to go up to an i35 but I don't think I would want any larger.

I suspect that squaring the tires off a bit would allow even better climbing and breaking traction as the contact patch would be increased, but my feeling is the the 3.0 width, low pressure tire already has a large enough contact patch and the round tire profile allows the bike to transition better than a more squared off tire from a wide rim.

Again - I have not actually tried a wide rim so I'm basing my opinion only on my experience on the stock i29 rims, my trust in Specialized, and from a lot of reading from others. (so much conflicting info out there on this.) But ultimately I keep going back to my experience on this width rim and the fact that Specialized has done a lot of testing and stock their highest end s-works plus bike with i30 carbon rims!

With that said, my tires (specifically rear tire) is getting worn and I just bought a pair of Maxxis Rekon+ 2.8. I haven't fitted them yet but the card attached said they were recommended for i40 rims. It sounds absurd to me me since they are significantly narrower than the 3.0 specialized rubber. I expect the 6fattie's i29 rims would be just fine. And this expectation is somewhat supported by a friends experience who has installed these tire on his 6fattie and loves them. But I'll put them on and test them next week and report back.

**edit - I am expecting an increase in pedal strikes but not expecting the tire to have any with the stock i29 rim.


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## majr (May 22, 2012)

Derek200 said:


> My guess is that there are a handful of people who have been able to ride jthebsame tire on multiple rims. But most probably have not. So a lot of comments seem to be armchair engineering. Also the tire and rim width thing started with like 19-20 mm rims. So tires would seem to be designed to be rounded to engage cornering knobs etc. if you flatten out a tire that was designed to be rounded I'm not sure how hard good?
> 
> Either way, with all the discussion I would hope tires begin to be designed for a specific range of rim widths.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have ridden i29, i35, i40, and i45 rims with a variety of 2.8 and 3.0 tires. Purgatory, Butcher, DHF, DW.
i29 - Not good
i35 - Fine for 2.8s. Too skinny for 3.0, designs like the DW without transition knobs have to be driven hard as there is a vague feeling while tipping the bike into a corner before the side knobs bite.
i40 - Perfect for 2.8, fine for 3.0
i45 - 2.8 rode well, but sidewalls get a little exposed to rocks for cuts. Perfect for 3.0.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

*Chainring Question...Sorry in Advance*

I searched, I read through as much as I could of this thread (it's overwhelming) so I figured I'd ask here instead of starting another thread.

2016 Stumpy 6Fattie Comp (ALU), looking to change chainring to oval on the stock SRAM DM cranks. I have read about boost, chain line, spec sheet for the bike, and still don't know what chainring to order. Some say BOOST isn't needed, some do, and I'm a little confused.

Can get either, which works better? Boost, or NON-Boost? Which spacing SHOULD I get?


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

If you have the short spline BB30. Then 0 offset is necessary. If you have 100+mm spline shaft, the standard 6mm offset is typical. Here's where I'm not 100% certain as Wolf suggest that if you're running the crank and pulling a spider that ran 38T> chainring, the 0 offset is recommended. 

It's incredibly ironic that you post this today as just this morning I was contemplating the identical situation. I was just about to walk out and measure to see where each of those options will take me with chain line.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

blaklabl said:


> I searched, I read through as much as I could of this thread (it's overwhelming) so I figured I'd ask here instead of starting another thread.
> 
> 2016 Stumpy 6Fattie Comp (ALU), looking to change chainring to oval on the stock SRAM DM cranks. I have read about boost, chain line, spec sheet for the bike, and still don't know what chainring to order. Some say BOOST isn't needed, some do, and I'm a little confused.
> 
> Can get either, which works better? Boost, or NON-Boost? Which spacing SHOULD I get?


Running a *non* Boost chainring. No issues and the chain does not drop when backpedaling in the 42T.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Oh My Sack! said:


> If you have the short spline BB30. Then 0 offset is necessary. If you have 100+mm spline shaft, the standard 6mm offset is typical. Here's where I'm not 100% certain as Wolf suggest that if you're running the crank and pulling a spider that ran 38T> chainring, the 0 offset is recommended.
> 
> It's incredibly ironic that you post this today as just this morning I was contemplating the identical situation. I was just about to walk out and measure to see where each of those options will take me with chain line.


I actually didn't think I could get more confused, but here I am.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

blaklabl said:


> I actually didn't think I could get more confused, but here I am.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


:lol:

That info I recycled is from Wolf Tooth's site on the subject. You'll have to pardon some of that as I am removing a DM spider on my cranks making it probably identical to yours in measurement. I just measured my set up, non-boost SRAM crankset. It's looking to me like a zero offset or flat chainring is necessary for proper tire clearance w/plus tires. Using the 6mm dished chain ring will put the chain line in too close.


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## SJEVO (Sep 23, 2015)

Can't wait to get some real riding on the new squish setup


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Just a heads up, I just posted in the classified Cranks section a set of SRAM XO1 carbon cranks 170mm, long spindle, with an 28T absolute black oval chainring. I had these cranks on my specialized Rhyme 6fattie (2016). They should be a direct switch for any 6fattie running the BB30 bottom bracket. And for all you guys getting pedal strikes this is the quickest way to raise your pedals 5mm!

Have fun, Jill


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

Finally have all the parts installed and ready to ride. Love this bike!


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Just a heads up, I just posted in the classified Cranks section a set of SRAM XO1 carbon cranks 170mm, long spindle, with an 28T absolute black oval chainring. I had these cranks on my specialized Rhyme 6fattie (2016). They should be a direct switch for any 6fattie running the BB30 bottom bracket. And for all you guys getting pedal strikes this is the quickest way to raise your pedals 5mm!
> 
> Have fun, Jill


I sent you a message direct from your classified post (I think i did it right). But I'm interested in buying them off you.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Sjevo and Mczen, those bikes look great. I love that Orange color! I wish they still made them. (although it would be too late for me)


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Jpcannavo said:


> Thanks Twimby! Reading through various posts in this and other threads, still trying to get a better sense of what rims/tire upgrades on the 6fattie have worked best. Was tempted start a new thread, but first looking to see if enough responses can be generated here. So, to those who have made rim and or tire changes, what have you found?


Okay I have two rides on my new 2.8 Maxxis Rekon+ tires. The tires feel so much different than the 3.0 Purgatory and Ground Controls. They feel almost like non-plus tires in that they are a lot more "snappy" and agile. I supposed this is a result of the reduced weight??

At the same time they also absorb less low frequency bumps / vibration than the Specialized rubber. I ran them at 18psi rear and 16psi front (for rider weight of 210 with full pack) which is about where I ran the Specialized tires. (I settled on these pressures for the specialized rubber based on Specialized recommendations and a good amount of trial and error.) Traction on the Maxxis tires was really good (as expected for plus tire) but I'm going to lower PSI to 17 rear and 15 front on the next ride to see how they perform and how that will impact the low frequency bumps. I figured I'll keep dropping the pressures until I don't notice any performance improvements OR if I start feeling the tires roll.

So far I've found the i29 rims to be very good running the default Specialized 3.0 tires as well as the Maxxis Rekon + 2.8 tires. Based on about a year of riding on these rims, I don't feel a larger inner diameter is really necessary. Perhaps things change with lower rider weight where running lower tire pressures becomes necessary??? But from my experience I don't think a wider rim upgrade is worth it. However, if I were upgrading rims anyway, I'd probably go with an i35 for the 3.0 tires. This width would not likely square off a 2.8 or 3.0 tire and just might allow you to run lower pressures if needed.


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## HansKlopps (Mar 9, 2017)

Is it possible to use 2x11 in 6fattie 2016? Any one test this?


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Jpcannavo said:


> Thanks Twimby! Reading through various posts in this and other threads, still trying to get a better sense of what rims/tire upgrades on the 6fattie have worked best. Was tempted start a new thread, but first looking to see if enough responses can be generated here. So, to those who have made rim and or tire changes, what have you found?


I'll throw my 2 cents in for what it's worth. I've had my 2016 Expert 6Fattie since Oct. of 2015. Love it, everything about it. I rode it thru the fall & winter stock, then in the late spring I wanted to lighten it up a bit for the summer so I got a set of i30 Roval carbon wheels and mounted some Fat-B-Nimbles on them and man were they light & fast. I loved them until I burped a rear on some rocky terrain and since they're not TR removed them (didn't want that to keep happening and with no side wall protection thought it would be best) So I got some 2.8 Maxxis Rekons and mounted them up, liked the tire but had to run more air than I wanted maybe because of the narrow rim, not sure.

Just to set the table for the rest of my long winded post, I've been accused of being a tire snob and readily admit to it, lol. So not completely happy with the Rekons I got some 2.8 Nobby Nics and mounted them up and loved them, maybe they have a stiffer side wall IDK but they worked good on the i30 rims. Late last summer I saved some coin and purchased a set of i38 Roval wheels and got me some 3.0 Rocket Rons. I wanted to try the wider rim that every body talks about and OMG what a ride. It is by far my favorite set up for summer & fall! I run the NN's when it gets soft out.

Liking to tinker and experiment I mounted the Rekons on the i38 rims and it was a game changer for those tires IMO. They worked and felt great with the wider foot print and I was able to air down where I like. I believe the wider rims allow for lower air pressures and give a great foot print. Anybody on the fence about wider rims I suggest you give them a try, you will not be disappointed and most likely very happy.

One more nugget then I'm out, being the tire snob I am and tinkerer I tried some 3.0 NN's on the i38 rims and boy what I nice profile. I rode it yesterday on a local trail and they felt awesome, going to mess with pressure a little bit to get that just right feel. Most know this but in case there are noob's or less experienced riders reading this thread, definitely mess with air volume, 1lb up or down on plus tires can make all the difference with traction ride quality.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Interesting info gdb85. I found the stock specialized i29 rim to be good with the stock 3.0 rubber. (of course the high volume low pressure tires feel soft and a bit vague compared to my old 29er) but never had any burping rolling issue. However, I also just replaced my worn ground control / purgatory 3.0 tires w a set of Rekon 2.8's so I'll be on the look out for tire squirm and burping now. 

The bike rides much different with the shorter 2.8" Rekon tires. Beside the bike sitting lower, it feels almost like the bike is smaller and less slack. I felt that I was able to overturn the front wheel and loose traction and I wondered if this was the front tire rolling. But I tested it out on solid dirt in the parking lot and could not re-produce this so I figured it must have been loosing traction in the snow???

I'll have to keep an eye on this. But i'm already considering either getting a pair of 3.0 Nobby Nics (on the same i29 rim) or picking up a pair of 29er wheels. This has more to due with the reduced ride height making me nervous with the increase in pedal strikes. Anyway I don't think I will buy another set of 27+ rims. If anything I would buy a set of 29ers to switch back and forth. You mentioned you loved the Nobby Nics as they seemed to have stronger sidewall. Do you think the 3.0 tires would also run okay on the i30 (or i29 in my case) rims?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I'm not of fan of plus tires on 30mm rims. Too "floaty" feeling if you try to ride hard at all. I've run several combos on my Fuse and I found a Maxxis 2.8 on 38mm rims is perfect for me. Very sold and supportive, not too heavy and the rolling resistance feels just right. 
My wife is currently running 3.0 NN on 30mm rims, but she likes the extra cushion and traction and doesnt notice the tire roll. She originally had i45 rims but they were boat anchors so I had to her try narrower lighter wheels. I tired the i45 with 3.0 myself and they were too dead and sluggish for me. Great feel cruising around, but odd feeling when pushed. Like I said I finally settled on 2.8s on my 38mm rims but liek you said it didt lower the bike, so I bumped the travel up on the fork to compensate. Feels about perfect now. Reminds more of a fun trail bike than my slow fatbike.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Outlier73 I tried the 3.0 NN on my i30 rim and did not like it. Could not put my finger on a reason but it did not feel right, even with different pressures. I am running the 2.8 NN on i30 rims and absolutely love it, they feel perfect. I couldn't begin to tell you why that .2 width makes a difference but to me it did. Maybe I'm half nuts, IDK.

They didn't change anything between the 3.0 & 2.8 except spread the nobs out farther. Could be the little extra spacing caused them to feel weird. Like I said IDK why, I'm not a pro or any type of racer but I know what confidence inspiring feels like and what works for me personally. The 2.8 just flat out works better than the 3.0 on i30 rims.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

gdb85 - thanks again for sharing your experience. 

I suspect the 3.0's don't feel right just because of all the extra air volume. The 3.0 tires might only be .2 wider but there are also taller so there is significantly more air volume as well as taller sidewalls. This is probably why the don't feel as good??

Anyway I'm going to run the 2.8 Rekons for the spring and asses the pedal strikes. So far the grip on the rekons is excellent and they seem to lean over and corner just fine on my limited number of rides but I really haven't had a chance to push them yet outside of some hard corner tests leading to the parking lot. ...or perhaps my pressures are set too high still???


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Probably right about the height. A little wider, a little taller on the i30 rims made it little less reassuring than the 2.8 NN. Probably why they feel so awesome on the i38 rims also.

You should be happy with the Rekons, I was ok with them on i30 but prefer them on the i38 rims more so.


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## Flatts (Mar 17, 2017)

Anyone have much ride time on a 2017 base comp model? Wondering what opinions are out there regarding the ride of the RS rev fork/RS shock. Also, I heard a rumour from the LBS that the rear triangle was tweaked a little for 2017 to tighten up the seat stay for calf clearance. 

Expecting my 2017 Comp within a month.


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

I got a comp in August. Fork is really good for a entry level bike. I hate the rear shock. I had to run the rebound all the way slow to make the bike rideable. This makes the shock sound like a squeaky toy. I would get a finger full of oil after every ride. Shop said there was nothing wrong with it. Took it to another shop and Rockshox upgraded it to a RT3. It's just OK too. Not near the level it should be. Rides in about 2/3 of its travel. I can't Auto sag. To many pedal strikes. I run it a max psi. The bike is great. The rear shock is junk. Thinking about a Fox rear shock. Any feedback on Fox rear shock from you guys that have them?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The Fox shock is excellent, very smooth, reliable, and a useful lockout. Autosag is a waste of time, but the autosag shock works fairly well at the minimum sag setting. Still, it, too, is prone to wallowing a little in the middle of the travel on the FSR linkage, which can result in pedal strikes on some quite small bumps. The EVOL can helps with this, as you can run a much higher pressure. I only use full travel when riding aggressively on rugged terrain, but that's how it should be. However, if pedal strikes are your primary complaint, the shock is not the best place to look for a fix. Get some shorter cranks, perhaps with an eccentric BB.


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Here is a pic of the RT3 after a ride. I wiped the shock off before riding. Not as much oil loss as with the RT but is this normal? Does the Fox do this? The oring is where that shock is while riding too.









Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

2old said:


> Here is a pic of the RT3 after a ride. I wiped the shock off before riding. Not as much oil loss as with the RT but is this normal? Does the Fox do this? The oring is where that shock is while riding too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The Fox does not bleed oil, but neither should the Rockshox. Note that both have a spacer inside them that prevents them from compressing all the way down the shaft. Full travel is 47.6mm. Take a tape measure to it, and see how it looks by that measure.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

On all of my new or newly serviced Fox or RS shocks, that amount of oil residue has been totally common. After a period of use, it begins to subside.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Changed out the cranks on my Comp Carbon from the stock 175mm GX crank to a 170mm XO carbon crank and find my incidence of pedal strikes has been greatly reduced. A little surprised but very pleased that a 5mm reduction in crank length makes so much difference in not getting pedal strikes.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

Sorry, wrong thread!


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ro7939 said:


> Sorry I cheaped out and did not read this entire thread (yet).
> 
> I would respectfully like to hear comments about the Fuse vs. Trek Stache series, 29+, HT, offset chain stays, etc.
> 
> My greatest interest is in the $3500 carbon Fuse.


Well, you might have read a little more and figured out that you are posting in the wrong thread. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Epic_Dude said:


> Changed out the cranks on my Comp Carbon from the stock 175mm GX crank to a 170mm XO carbon crank and find my incidence of pedal strikes has been greatly reduced. A little surprised but very pleased that a 5mm reduction in crank length makes so much difference in not getting pedal strikes.


Have you found any other effects positive or negative with the shorter cranks? Less torque on pedally sections or a higher spin cadence? I'm a little curious because I may go this route. I'm not so concerned about pedal strikes (even though I broke 2 ATAC pedals in a year) I'm learning to adjust but I would like to get some NEXT SL's and if I do I would look into 170mm.

Thanks in advance and anyone else want to chime in it would be appreciated.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have gone that route as well with Race Face 170mm cranks. Have to be a better rider than me to pick any difference 
Gratuitous shot


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

FWIW, previous to my new '17 Expert, I had a 26" Expert carbon Evo and like many, suffered the pretty regular pedal strike syndrome as well as a knee pain issue and decided to try 170mm cranks. It pretty much eliminated the pedal strikes and had a significant effect on reducing my left knee pain. I bought the RF Turbine Cinch cranks to do this experiment. After a month or two of riding my regular chunky rocky "home" trails a few times a week, I started to notice I was struggling a bit on some sections of my more technical uphill game that I hadn't experienced before. I chalked it up as a bit of aging and fitness decline even though that didn't quite sit right with me. Right before I sold my carbon original Sram carbon 175 crankset to a friend that had cash in hand, I got a whim to put them back on and try them as a comparison after quite a few miles/time on the 170's. My climbing struggles were gone! Day and night difference. I never would have expected it to be that significant but it was. 

As I think about it now, I often wonder if being on a 26 had an affect on the performance? A 6fattie or 9'r is gonna roll the chunky stuff far more easily so perhaps those that try it won't have the same experience as I did. Whomever makes the change over, make sure you post up your results after some pedal time. I'd be open to try it again since I think I'm going to stick with the 6fattie configuration and possibly forego my 9'r wheel build.


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## ro7939 (May 25, 2009)

phride said:


> Well, you might have read a little more and figured out that you are posting in the wrong thread.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


My bad! Sorry for posting when I should be sleeping! I wrongly thought the only 6Fattie was Fuse. Please continue with your regular programming.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ro7939 said:


> My bad! Sorry for posting when I should be sleeping! I wrongly thought the only 6Fattie was Fuse. Please continue with your regular programming.


No worries. There's a good thread for that one, too.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Epic_Dude said:


> Changed out the cranks on my Comp Carbon from the stock 175mm GX crank to a 170mm XO carbon crank and find my incidence of pedal strikes has been greatly reduced. A little surprised but very pleased that a 5mm reduction in crank length makes so much difference in not getting pedal strikes.


I've been considering this as well. Can you provide any details on the replacement cranks? Besides 170mm bb30 / pf30, is there a specific offset needed or do you just look for "boost spacing"? and does the GX 28t front ring fit on the new cranks?


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

Jpcannavo said:


> Yeah, I myself can't seem get completely clear on this. So I get the expected benefit for increased rim size: less tire squirm, better side wall support for lower pressures, slight increase contact patch etc. But what is less clear to me is what peolple have actually experienced in the comparing wider rim choices over the stock setup. The other thing that is curious is Specialized's choice. Consider the 2017 S Works, where no expense is spared, if larger rims were a clear improvement, why wouldn't they spec them that way?


YES!! I have been wondering this the entire time I have had my'17 Stumpy Pro. I ended up selling my '17 Fuse Expert to a buddy to get him into riding and that bike had the Roval 38s. I have since found that there is nothing wrong with the 29-30mm ID rims and have since ordered a set of 30.5mm ID rims for my 2.8 Minions.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

I'm glad you said this as I've found the same with the stock rims. Sadly the stock Hi Lo hubs on My Stumpjumper comp haven't fared as well. Or I should say the rear hub. The freewheel on the hi-lo / Formula hub just died on me. But because I've not experienced any tire roll or other issues with the stock i29 rim, I purchased a new Roval wheelset (with the Roval hubs & DT Swiss internals on rear). They also use the i29 rim.

...although to be fair, I've not ridden plus tires on the i38 rims or any rim other than the stock i29. Maybe they would provide an upgrade as everyone says and I just don't know any better. But I am glad to hear other riders saying the same.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I think it really depends on riding style. 
I ran 2.8 Maxxis tires on 30 ID rims and I hated it.The PSI needed for ideal traction had a ton of tire roll and the PSI need to eliminated tire roll was bouncy and traction sucked. I put 3.0 tires on those same rims and put them on my wife's bike and she loves them. 
I'm now running 2.8s on 38mm rims and I think it feel fantastic. I can get the psi down to where traction is excellent but the sidewalls stay firm and supported.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

I love that the rim width debate is still happening! I say this not in a sarcastic way, but in a way to express the unrest among 6fattie owners. I feel like it's just us (6fattie owners) whom are concerned about it, and I blame Specialize for never giving us closure.

I've been an early contributor to this thread since 2015. I feel like I was there for the whole conspiracy theory surrounding 27.5+ tires and rim width. Such theories included:
1) Spesh was not 100% ready to usher in the 650b+ full suspension era and only had 29mm id rims ready for the launch
2) Spesh continued to support the 29mm id choice because the 6fatties were surpassing 30lb in weight and they needed to drop lbs.
3) Or maybe plus size was simply uncharted territory and Spesh wanted the Fuse 6fattie to run the wider id rims to differentiate it from the FSR 6fattie? (again, this is more in line with the weight factor of a hardtail vs fs)

To me, I ultimately think it came down to weight savings and having an in-house brand wheel for the FSR 6fattie. This is just my opinion. I think the alloy hi-lo wheelsets are already pretty heavy with a 29mm id rim and I don't think the WTB Scrapers on the FSR 6fattie would have helped the cause. Also, back in 2015 the WTB Scraper was really our only consumer choice for "wide rims". Maybe they didn't have the capacity to support production for (2) lines of Spesh bikes? That comment is not warranted by anything factual (fake news) other than my fingers on a keyboard. Still, I think that the real reason is due to weight savings on the FSR 6fattie.

All of this lead up gets me to the comments above regarding the S-Works and 30mm id rims. On a bike where "no expense is spared" and lightweight is synonymous with the name S-Works, it makes sense to give it a wheel that is the lightest plus offering they make. That's why IMO the S-Works FSR 6fattie has the 30mm id rims. It's proven that 29-30mm id rims work for plus tires, so why not spec it with such? The real secret to the Roval 38mm wheels = they remain as an option-only product to entice the consumer. If the S-Works is a super bike, people are still going to want to customize and enhance even the best... Spesh has got you covered with the $1500 Roval 38.

Many 6fattie owners could benefit (financially) from not focusing on why Spesh offers "X" and provides "Y". If we choose to focus on the fact that we like the way it rides then we will indeed ride happily ever after on the trails. Yes, it's confusing that Spesh specs out an S-Works with 30mm id carbon wheels (mrsp $1500) and then offers a 38mm id carbon wheel at the same msrp. We are stuck wondering if it's better and do I need to spend more money? That's the kicker, is the option a want or a need? 

I say if you have an alloy set of boost rims and want to upgrade, then go to the 38mm Rovals. Having tried both id rim widths on my own bike, I think there's some performance enhancements from a wider rim. Larger contact patch and increased sidewall support to name two. If you're spending your hard earned cash then make the most of the upgrade. It's rare, to never, that I've heard people regretting buying a 38mm id rim when they run a 2.8-3.0 tire. It's only the flip side where people whom already have an S-Works or $7000+ bike with 30mm id carbons will justify what they have because they've already shelled out the extra coin for the "best". I'd be in that boat if I could afford an S-Works... not knocking the financial standings of those individuals whom can and do choose the S-Works.

I think all of the 6fatties are amazing machines, no matter the trim level. We have (2) in our household. I still have mine (6fattie carbon comp) and have no desire to sell it for something new. Spesh changed the game with full suspension plus bikes in 2015 and I don't personally feel that anything groundbreaking has improved on this platform since.

This might be my longest post ever....

John


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

well you might be right about riding style and if you add in variables of a riders terrain, and rider weight, etc, what works for one might not work for others.

I guess what i may be concluding is that plus tire traction is so good that I'm not finding it necessary to go so low on PSI to impact the sidewall stiffness. And while I can reduce pressure to try to soften the ride, the tradeoff for less stable sidewalls doesn't seem worth it. Perhaps the wider rims would allow a softer ride but then you are adding weight...

I just don't know. Specialized isn't spec'ing a wide rim on their s-works Stumpjumper but they might be the only company holding out. And even tire manufacturers are indicating their tires are designed for wider rims. I just don't know. I can't say i've bought into Specialize's thinking on rim width but then again I haven't had any problems with the i29 rim width either.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

darkhorse13 said:


> ...
> 
> All of this lead up gets me to the comments above regarding the S-Works and 30mm id rims. On a bike where "no expense is spared" and lightweight is synonymous with the name S-Works, it makes sense to give it a wheel that is the lightest plus offering they make. That's why IMO the S-Works FSR 6fattie has the 30mm id rims. It's proven that 29-30mm id rims work for plus tires, so why not spec it with such? The real secret to the Roval 38mm wheels = they remain as an option-only product to entice the consumer. If the S-Works is a super bike, people are still going to want to customize and enhance even the best... Spesh has got you covered with the $1500 Roval 38.
> 
> ...


Thanks John, I agree with many of your points. I personally feel like they use 30mm ID rims on the S-Works because it's lighter, and it works.

I own a 2016 S-Works 6 Fattie. I sold the 30mm ID wheelset to a friend less than a couple of months of owning the bike, then bought the 38mm Roval wheelset to replace it. IIRC, it cost me ~$100 out of my pocket to do this. I don't regret it.

With my riding style, having owned both rim sizes of the 6Fattie carbon Roval wheels, I prefer the bigger contact patch and better sidewall support of the wider rims. If it cost me more than, say, $300 to do this upgrade, I'm not sure I would've done it, and I'd probably still be riding the 30mm ID rims that the bike came with.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Drevil said:


> Thanks John, I agree with many of your points. I personally feel like they use 30mm ID rims on the S-Works because it's lighter, and it works.
> 
> I own a 2016 S-Works 6 Fattie. I sold the 30mm ID wheelset to a friend less than a couple of months of owning the bike, then bought the 38mm Roval wheelset to replace it. IIRC, it cost me ~$100 out of my pocket to do this. I don't regret it.
> 
> With my riding style, having owned both rim sizes of the 6Fattie carbon Roval wheels, I prefer the bigger contact patch and better sidewall support of the wider rims. If it cost me more than, say, $300 to do this upgrade, I'm not sure I would've done it, and I'd probably still be riding the 30mm ID rims that the bike came with.


Thanks Ricky!
You've been contributing to this thread probably just as long as me and I know you've seen iterations of this topic pop up more than we can count 

We both sold our stock wheels pretty early in the game and you fared much better out of pocket than me with the carbon version for sure. I agree that we'd both probably have been satisfied with the 29-30mm id rims but after having the 38's now I choose not to go back. I still think you have me beat on the number of tire brand mounts and dismounts 

Strong riders like yourself no doubt push the benefits of a wider rim.

John


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Thanks for the post Darkhorse. Very good observation. I suspect you hit this one on the mark. (it's about weight AND maybe a little bit about money)


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

From the emails I had between Sam B. @Roval, there really isn't a wrong size for the 3.0". He did say as a heavier rider and more aggressive style, I would benefit from the additional sidewall support but I could go with either.it really is a rider preference. I chose not to lock myself into the wider rim and thus plus tires forever. I can take my Enduro305s and toss 2.3-2.8" rubber on them for a future bike and still know the 3.0 will work.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I didn't really care to get the opinions of the bike maker on width compatibility. Instead, I went directly to the manufacturer of my tire of choice, Schwalbe, and queried about the optimum wheel width they targeted as they were engineering the tires. In this case, 3.0 tire = i40, 2.8 = i35. They stated that though just barely less than optimal for 3.0, the i35 would be an excellent choice for the entire range from 2.35-3.0. I find that to be true with 2.35's on a previous build so I built i35's and they run the 3.0 Nobby Nics quite awesomely.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Schwalbe tires and Specialized tires are two different beasts though. I think most of us have found that the industry way underestimated the amount of pressure you should run in a plus tire. 10-12 psi is crazy talk! I run 17/20 on Purgatorys (stiff suspension, slow rebound) on the stock 29ID rims with excellent traction and no tire roll. Unless I break a rim, I see no reason to go any wider.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I continue to be pleasantly surprised by the stock wheelset. They roll really well and they stay true, especially for a low spoke-count wheel, despite me beating the **** out of them in rock gardens with some regularity. Unfortunately, they are also surprisingly heavy for a low spoke-count wheel. Maybe that's why they hold-up so well. (Go figure.) I had anticipated that the rear hub would go at some point, and I was waiting for that to explain to my wife how I needed to spend an extra grand on a better wheelset, but I'm starting to think that they'll keep rolling for a while yet, as there's no sign of play or noise coming from the freehub. Maybe I just got a good one. 

Without a point of comparison, I can't say that I wouldn't prefer a wider rim, but even running 14/15 at 190#, I haven't noticed any issues with tire squirm, and that includes pushing a couple down/sidehill lines hard enough to pickup a couple KOMs at a popular riding area. (It's entirely possible that the truly fast guys don't consider those good trails to chase KOMs, but that's not my point.) In pushing hard through the off-camber corners on those trails and elsewhere, I've never noticed any tire squirm. Maybe someone more discriminating would, but it works for me. 

What I have noticed, however, is that the 3.0 tires can get a little bouncy when catching air. I'm not sure that a wider rim would help much with this, as lowering tire pressure much more would likely lead to rim strikes, regardless of slightly improved sidewall support. Thus, I've been looking at 29er wheels more than upgraded 27.5 plus-friendly wheels recently. I may also shift to a 2.8, but only after I raise the BB and get some shorter cranks. (Another set of parts that I'm waiting to go out on me before replacing.)


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

Oh My Sack! said:


> I didn't really care to get the opinions of the bike maker on width compatibility. Instead, I went directly to the manufacturer of my tire of choice, Schwalbe, and queried about the optimum wheel width they targeted as they were engineering the tires. In this case, 3.0 tire = i40, 2.8 = i35. They stated that though just barely less than optimal for 3.0, the i35 would be an excellent choice for the entire range from 2.35-3.0. I find that to be true with 2.35's on a previous build so I built i35's and they run the 3.0 Nobby Nics quite awesomely.


Ugh, Roval doesn't make the bike, they make the wheels. Specialized makes the tires, Roval is a Specialized brand, so what exactly are you saying we did differently?


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Thustlewnumber and phride - I am finding the same in that i29s work just fine for me for plus tires but it sounds like we are all running higher psi than others have attempted. I stated above as well that i'm finding traction so good with both 3.0 and 2.8 tires that I don't feel the need to lower psi below 15psi seaching for better. And I haven't found the tires too bouncy. (although somewhat more bouncy than my old 29er at all psi) So I'm sticking with the i29 rims for now. 

Perhaps if I break a rim or something, I'll try out i35s or 38s. I'm sure others are right and they are better, but since 29s seem to work, i'm going to stick them out.

Phride - regarding that rear hub. I have two friends running that hub with no issue but my mechanic told me to keep an eye on the rear hub as he's seen many of them fail including one of his. ...sure enough I started hearing a ping sound periodically which I thought was related to the new chain I installed. But after a few rides the prawls on the freewheel let go and the wheel was shot. Keep and eye on the rear through axle coming loose and cones on hubs loosening up. (that is a separate issue that all of my friends with this hub have experienced.) and listen for any pinging sounds when the drivetrain is under load. If you hear that, I would start shopping for a new wheel or hub.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

pharmkid85 said:


> Ugh, Roval doesn't make the bike, they make the wheels. Specialized makes the tires, Roval is a Specialized brand, so what exactly are you saying we did differently?


I believe the point that Oh My Sack! is trying to get across is that they care about what the tire manufacturer recommends for a specific size rim, not the bike or rim company... which makes sense.

I didn't read into the post that OMS! thought Roval made Specialized. In this case, it doesn't matter what Spesh or Roval claims about tire size because they don't make the tires that OMS! wants to run. I do appreciate the fact that tire mfg like Maxxis are putting recommended rim widths on their packaging. It's helpful and at least a starting guide for riders.

John


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

pharmkid85 said:


> Ugh, Roval doesn't make the bike, they make the wheels. Specialized makes the tires, Roval is a Specialized brand, so what exactly are you saying we did differently?


he was saying that he is NOT running the specialized tires but running Schwalbe tires (maybe nobby nics??) Schwalbe has stated their 3.0 tire was designed for i40 rims. Maxxis had something similar stated for my 2.8 rekons.

(Edit - Sorry Dark horse beat me to it)


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

I think you both missed what I was trying to ask, which is likely due to fault of my own.

I'm referring to his opening statement that he "didn't care to get the opinions of the bike maker but rather that of the tire mfg of choice." I did just the same. Spec makes the tire of choice for me and they also happen to make the wheels under a separate company. Therefore they are the makers of my chosen tire/wheel combo so it made sense to ask them. I read his comment as he didn't want to ask the bike mfg about his tires, he wanted to ask the tire company-which totally makes sense. Just happens to be exactly as I did given my bike brand and wheel brand being under the same roof so to speak. Had I wanted to run a Minion(which I now do) I would have called Maxxis, not Roval/Spec.

Either way, we accomplished the same thing and I ended up with a rim that accommodates 2.3-2.8 just fine.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Outlier73 said:


> Thustlewnumber and phride - I am finding the same in that i29s work just fine for me for plus tires but it sounds like we are all running higher psi than others have attempted. I stated above as well that i'm finding traction so good with both 3.0 and 2.8 tires that I don't feel the need to lower psi below 15psi seaching for better. And I haven't found the tires too bouncy. (although somewhat more bouncy than my old 29er at all psi) So I'm sticking with the i29 rims for now.
> 
> Perhaps if I break a rim or something, I'll try out i35s or 38s. I'm sure others are right and they are better, but since 29s seem to work, i'm going to stick them out.
> 
> Phride - regarding that rear hub. I have two friends running that hub with no issue but my mechanic told me to keep an eye on the rear hub as he's seen many of them fail including one of his. ...sure enough I started hearing a ping sound periodically which I thought was related to the new chain I installed. But after a few rides the prawls on the freewheel let go and the wheel was shot. Keep and eye on the rear through axle coming loose and cones on hubs loosening up. (that is a separate issue that all of my friends with this hub have experienced.) and listen for any pinging sounds when the drivetrain is under load. If you hear that, I would start shopping for a new wheel or hub.


When I land my jumps well, they aren't too bouncy, but if I get off to the side a little bit due to using too much arm, they have a bit of a lateral trampoline effect that I never got on my 2.1 tires. That's not surprising, I suppose, and maybe a wider rim would help with that lateral bounce by providing more support. Still, a 2.8 tire would help in that regard, too, without breaking the bank.

Thanks for the heads-up on the hub. I'll listen for pinging sounds that I would ordinarily associate with the chain before going in on 29er wheels, if the primary wheelset could be due for a replacement.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

gdb85 said:


> Have you found any other effects positive or negative with the shorter cranks? Less torque on pedally sections or a higher spin cadence? I'm a little curious because I may go this route. I'm not so concerned about pedal strikes (even though I broke 2 ATAC pedals in a year) I'm learning to adjust but I would like to get some NEXT SL's and if I do I would look into 170mm.
> 
> Thanks in advance and anyone else want to chime in it would be appreciated.


No negatives that I can really think of, just the positive effect of much fewer pedal strikes.



Outlier73 said:


> I've been considering this as well. Can you provide any details on the replacement cranks? Besides 170mm bb30 / pf30, is there a specific offset needed or do you just look for "boost spacing"? and does the GX 28t front ring fit on the new cranks?


I just bough a set of BB30 XO carbon cranks off eBay. They didn't come with a chain ring but that was fine, I just moved the stock SRAM GX Boost ring from the old crank to the new. The cranks are nothing special for Boost, just the chain ring.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Thanks Epic_Dude!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Put one of these on for the bash guard. Works well with the 28t ring and has a very minimal look. Super easy to install.

Micro XCg ? MRP


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Put one of these on for the bash guard. Works well with the 28t ring and has a very minimal look. Super easy to install.
> 
> Micro XCg ? MRP


I went with the OneUp with the built in chain guide up top. So far its been flawless. 
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/chainguide/products/bashguide-iscg05


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I find it interesting that when you use the new "design your own Stumpjumper" option on the Specialized site the 6fattie model only has 38mm rim options.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Interesting. I wondered how long it would take for Specialized to cave in on the wide rim trend. Even if they are correct and i29 rims are adequate for 3.0 tires, the industry (and public perception) largely disagrees. And eventually they will lose sales. I wonder if they are starting to make the move.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/mtb-wheel-compatibility


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

38mm rims in alloy or carbon, option for a Pike RCT3 or Fox 36, EVOL cans on the shock (or even a coil shock). Solid upgrades, imho. Just wish they would have specced some Shimano brakes.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Interestingly, on the new Stumpy custom build configurator:

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/stumpjumper-build-kit

The *ONLY* [6Fattie] wheel option is for the 38's in either carbon or alloy. SO that, to me, is like Specialized saying that the 30's only matter when showroom weight comes into the question. If you are not trying to publish a weight (as in a custom build) then go with the 38s.

I'd be interested in selling my carbon 30's and getting some 38's. But only if I can find s-works orange stickers to put the 38 rims. That should show you how big of a deal it is to me. At my weight and riding style, the 30's are more than adequate so why put up with the extra weight and increased rolling resistance of a wider contact patch....

I would do it for bragging rights, but not without orange stickers


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The orange decals can be ordered from specialized, or Slik Graphics or stikrd.com...


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Its interesting Specialized finally caved to everyone who said they needed wider rims. It would be a great time to buy 30mm rims off everyone upgrading.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Its interesting Specialized finally caved to everyone who said they needed wider rims. It would be a great time to buy 30mm rims off everyone upgrading.


I've been watching Pinkbike for at least a month + since I got my 29/6Fattie. Roval i29's have been an easy, daily find as people have been jumping ship for quite some time. Now, try and find an i35.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

The carbon 38 wheels have been available from Specialized almost since day one of the 6Fattie. I think the best option is to buy them aftermarket and keep the Roval i29 wheels to put back on when you sell the bike (which we know everyone will do at some point). But I have to say the alloy 38 wheels are tanks and ride like tanks, the carbon ones are sweet though. 
Have fun out there


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

29er wheels fit the 6fattie no problem right? I have been thinking of picking up a set to try just for fun.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

no problem at all, i have a set of carbon hoops i run on mine. 

this may be overstating the obvious, but make sure whatever wheels you get are boost compatible. 110mm front / 148mm rear hub spacing


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

mtbmatty said:


> no problem at all, i have a set of carbon hoops i run on mine.
> 
> this may be overstating the obvious, but make sure whatever wheels you get are boost compatible. 110mm front / 148mm rear hub spacing


Got it, but thank you for the heads up. I have been on the lookout for a set of new or near new Roval takeoff wheels that someone is getting rid of because of upgrading to carbon or something. I don't wanna shell out the big bucks for carbon before I know for sure that it will be a good thing. My last bike was a Trek Fuel EX 29er and I hated almost everything about it so I am curious if this bike will be better or if me and FS 29ers in general just don't get along. LOL


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

if you are looking for Roval Al wheels, make sure you get the set with Roval (DT Swiss internals on the rear) hubs not the Hi Lo hubs. I understand the rear hub might be made by Formula or JoyTech (not sure which) but either way a friend and I have both blown out the freewheel on this hub. According to my bike shop its a common problem.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Do they even make an AL version with the good hubs? All the takeoffs I've seen (including the ones I have) have the crappy hi lo hub. The hub is actually easy to rebuild if needed, its the 16 POE that really suck!


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

It's the Prawls that broke on the hub. I don't think you can fix them.

Regarding the AL version of Roval Wheelset - they do make the wheelset on AL rims as well. I think it's the only way they are sold aftermarket. But they also spec these on some of the higher trim level Enduro's and I think Stumpjumpers. Without looking I'm thinking they come on expert spec???

But here's a link to the after market wheels - https://www.specialized.com/us/en/components/wheels/roval-traverse-fattie-650b-148/118075

Here's a 29er set on Ebay but you should be able to get a set for $350 - Roval Traverse 29 148 wheelset 2017 XD boost wide DT tubeless | eBay


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I dont see an aluminum 38 available on the site. Your link is for the 29mm wide version. 

The thing with the hi-lo hubs is you need to watch the rear closely. The hub can slowly come loose, and that extra slop can cause a pawl to pop out of place and basically destroy the hub. If you check it every few rides and clean it out/tighten it at the first sign of anyway sideways movement, you can keep them working for a long time.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

crfnick was looking for set up 29er wheels. (although it looks like I linked to the 650b on Specialized page but got it right for the ebay link.)

But to your point, they make the Roval wheelset (w roval hubs) in AL for 650b and 29er but both in i29. I've only seen the carbon rims in i38. 

What you described on the hi/lo hubs is exactly what happened to me. It happened to two of my friends as well. We've all had the skewer loosen up a few times but the hub itself has loosened for all of us. I may not have noticed mine quick enough which resulted in damage to the prawls.??? But after the wheel was tightened back up, all worked for a few rides. Although I did hear a clicking / popping sound a few times under full load. I periodically checked the hub after the first time it loosened as advised by my bike shop but all was seemingly good. ...And then the hub died. Apparently it died so bad that the hub body itself started to disintegrate.

Anyway, I replaced both wheels with the 650b Roval Al i29 wheelset.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The hi/lo on my fatbike would come lose fairly often, same with my buddies. They didnt catch it or ignored it and both destroyed their hubs. Sheared parts right off. I stayed on top of mine and never got to the point that it broke, but I did find grass and small leaves inside on several occasions, so it isnt sealed all that great.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Funny you guys mentioned the hub loosening, I just experienced this a week ago. Wiggled the rear wheel and found it has some play. Pulled the wheel off and tightened things up, all seems to be fine. This was after about 500 miles on a 2016 Comp Carbon.

Once in a while I do get a pop out of the rear hub, it only does it once every other ride or so. I was thinking it might be a combination of frame flex and a slight misalignment of the chain to the rear cog, but now you guys got me thinking it might have something to do with the freehub body and the pawls inside.

I'm going to keep a close eye on it anyway. However, if I let it go, I may have an excuse to upgrade to some carbon wheels with DT Swiss hubs.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Epic dude, those are my exact symptoms before the freehub went. It started w feeling a bit off and I checked the rear wheel and found the hubs had loosened. I had the bike shop fix it since I didn't have the right cone wrench and that's when they told me to keep an eye on the hub as they are known to die. 

....around this time I had replaced my chain and I started hearing popping every once in a while. I thought it was related to the chain. But then the freehub died about two or three rides later. 

Sounds like you are about to have the same failure. I had to walk my bike quite a ways that day so I'd recommend short loops.

My bike shop said they don't waranty the inners of the hub . But I bought my 2016 carbon comp used anyway so no warranty. So I got a new set of roval wheels w the better hubs as I didn't want to have the same issue in a year.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Thanks Outlier73, when I get a chance I will pull the rear wheel, remove the freehub and have a look inside. If I see a problem I will talk to the Specialized dealer where I purchased, I'd be surprised if the freehub isn't covered under any type of warranty.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Epic_Dude said:


> Thanks Outlier73, when I get a chance I will pull the rear wheel, remove the freehub and have a look inside. If I see a problem I will talk to the Specialized dealer where I purchased, I'd be surprised if the freehub isn't covered under any type of warranty.


I had mine come loose too, took it into the shop I bought from, they said the hub loosened up and it was good to go, got 8mi out on my next ride and it ate itself. Too the bike back again and they got me the upgraded hub. Definitely keep your rides close to the trailhead as yours is about to let go!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Just got back from a 17 mile ride, the rear hub seemed fine but it did have one odd pop at one point when the hub engaged after a bit of free-wheeling. I'm definitely going to have a look at it next chance I get. If I see any damage I will see what the LBS will do for me under warranty. I'm not an aggressive rider, I take good care of my bikes and perform my own regular maintenance. If the free hub is broken inside, it's not from abuse.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

OMG, i had my rear wheel pop a couple of times yesterday on a ride. I was in the 11t cog in full standing hammer mode and it kept "skipping". Glad to know I need this looked at.


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## Luckyluc (Dec 20, 2015)

Any1 replace thier headset bearings yet. If so with what? I can't seem to keep my stock head set tight for more than a couple of rides.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> OMG, i had my rear wheel pop a couple of times yesterday on a ride. I was in the 11t cog in full standing hammer mode and it kept "skipping". Glad to know I need this looked at.


that might be your chain or cassette or chain ring though. My free hub made a popping sound which I thought was the chain and it may have slipped a little but I didn't really notice a slip. that is, until the whole thing died. but if your chain or chain ring or cassette is too worn it might slip. (more commonly, if you replace the chain but the old worn out chain wore down your chain ring or cassette, when you put on a new chain - it might slip under load.) But if it is your freehub, then you don't have long before it dies.

on a side note, This is now happening to my friends Specialized Hi Lo hub as well and just happened to another friends Bontrager hub. I suspect it might be the same manufacturer providing both hubs.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

i had read about people having issues and mine had loosened up after 2-3 rides as well. i ended up adding a small shim spacer (APPROX .25mm) on top of the compression ring. 
so the assembly goes: bearing->compression ring->shim spacer->bearing cover. worked like a charm, has not come loose again. 
i can't remember if there was one shim installed from the factory or not, don't believe there was.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Any suggestions on a new crank? My son managed to blow the threads out of the left arm on the GX crank. Thinking Raceface Turbine cinch.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Any suggestions on a new crank? My son managed to blow the threads out of the left arm on the GX crank. Thinking Raceface Turbine cinch.


If you want to try to salvage that crankarm, there are crank pedal thread repair kits. Some shops offer this service. Another option is to just get that one side.

Pedal Bushing Repair Kit Procedure | Park Tool


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Looked into that. One side is not available. Looked at inserts. Not much thread left. He did not tighten the pedal and hit a jump line. Just destroyed the arm. Looked at xx1 and xo arms. I want a durable crank set. Not sure carbon or alloy.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I had a Turbine Cinch crankset on my SJ Expert Evo when I was playing with crank length experimentally. They are good solid cranks. Just use the RF spacer kit on the PF30 BB rather than the RF bottom bracket, IMO. 

If I were to change and upgrade from my Sram 2200 carbon cranks, it would be either the RF Next or SixC carbons, now.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Get the SRAM XO carbon cranks from Nashbar. They keep running 25% off sales every few days so it's $150. Add a direct mount ring in the size of your choice and your good to go!

SRAM X0 PF30 42/28T Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

All good options. I will look at the xo. I could use my BB? That would be killer.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Same BB since your OEM cranks are SRAM too.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

At this point I am wondering about carbon XO vs Turbine cinch. Cost will be about the same by the time I buy a RF bb. What is going to last longer? Do the carbon cranks get hammered from pedal strikes?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

I had xx1 carbon cranks (same as XO) on my 26" stumpjumper for 4 years, 2000+ miles and beat the crap out of them. I recently moved them to my Fuse and they are still going strong! I have zero complains about their durability.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Your crank ends will get hammered. End caps or go aluminum.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

Add those for the peace of mind:
https://www.sram.com/de/sram/mountain/products/sram-carbon-crank-boot

Gesendet von meinem XT1068 mit Tapatalk


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## Bumba (Jul 22, 2016)

Is someone running 2.8" Minions on the Stock 29mm wheels? 

Thinking about getting new tyres for occasional bikepark rides. Currently running 3.0 Nobby Nics which are great for my local trails.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Nashbar is having there sale again. 25% off! Carbon SRAM cranks for $150 ,and aluminum ones for a lot cheaper. 
Bike Cranksets | Mountain Bike Cranksets | Bike Nashbar


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Nashbar is having there sale again. 25% off! Carbon SRAM cranks for $150 ,and aluminum ones for a lot cheaper.
> Bike Cranksets | Mountain Bike Cranksets | Bike Nashbar


Don't see any under $199.00


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

From what I can they're not direct mount or am I reading the description wrong?


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The XO carbons cranks are $199 plus 25% off = $150. The XO cranks and the X1 1400 cranks have removable spiders so you can replace them with a DM ring. 
Both the X1 1400 aluminum crankset come with a 32t ring for $139 with 25% off that price for a total of $104.25! Pretty sweet deal if you dont want to go carbon.

The extra 25% off is added in the cart.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> At this point I am wondering about carbon XO vs Turbine cinch. Cost will be about the same by the time I buy a RF bb. What is going to last longer? Do the carbon cranks get hammered from pedal strikes?


Gonzo - I have a set of S2200's (same as XO) I took off my 2016 6Fattie expert - about 200 miles on them. PM me if interested.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Orignally posted in other thread. But seems this is a good thread on Stumpjumper.

Just picked up my first one, coming from the Fuze. First thing I noticed how low bottom bracket is. Started hitting everything on my local trails.

Specs say with a 3.0 tire it should be 331mm from ground. Mine with 3.0 ground control tire is only 326. Is it normal to be that far out from factory specs.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Nashbar is having there sale again. 25% off! Carbon SRAM cranks for $150 ,and aluminum ones for a lot cheaper.
> Bike Cranksets | Mountain Bike Cranksets | Bike Nashbar


Thats a pretty good deal right there. Too bad I have no room in the budget right now for any goodies like that.

Side note, did Nashbar pick up where Pricepoint left off?? I have never shopped Nashbar before but now that I'm browsing around it looks very similar to Pricepoint from what I remember, even the general layout of the site looks close.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

bbunnys said:


> Orignally posted in other thread. But seems this is a good thread on Stumpjumper.
> 
> Just picked up my first one, coming from the Fuze. First thing I noticed how low bottom bracket is. Started hitting everything on my local trails.
> 
> Specs say with a 3.0 tire it should be 331mm from ground. Mine with 3.0 ground control tire is only 326. Is it normal to be that far out from factory specs.


I haven't measured mine by all accounts the measurement should be taken with no sag in the rear shock. The measurement should also go to the middle of the BB not the bottom. (or that is my understanding) I also don't know for sure but the BB measurement might differ depending on frame size??

With that said, when I got my first full suspension I found I was hitting my pedals much more than I was used to. This was a trek superfly AL which I think had a bit higher BB. But when coming from a HT i think it takes some getting used to the rear suspension sag and compression when when you are riding through rocky sections effectively lower you bb even more.


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

Outlier73 said:


> I haven't measured mine by all accounts the measurement should be taken with no sag in the rear shock. The measurement should also go to the middle of the BB not the bottom. (or that is my understanding) I also don't know for sure but the BB measurement might differ depending on frame size??
> 
> With that said, when I got my first full suspension I found I was hitting my pedals much more than I was used to. This was a trek superfly AL which I think had a bit higher BB. But when coming from a HT i think it takes some getting used to the rear suspension sag and compression when when you are riding through rocky sections effectively lower you bb even more.


This.

I ride my Stumpy on 2.8"s which measure close to 2.6's so according to Spec, I'm rollin low but within rider's call. I regularly pedal through some rocky stuff but I do remember I too had to relearn when to put the power down and backpedal a bit to ratchet over stuff.

The bike is a bomber, just ride it on the 3.0s like ya stole it.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The XO carbons cranks are $199 plus 25% off = $150. The XO cranks and the X1 1400 cranks have removable spiders so you can replace them with a DM ring.
> Both the X1 1400 aluminum crankset come with a 32t ring for $139 with 25% off that price for a total of $104.25! Pretty sweet deal if you dont want to go carbon.
> 
> The extra 25% off is added in the cart.


Thanks for the info, might have to look into it.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Bumba said:


> Is someone running 2.8" Minions on the Stock 29mm wheels?
> 
> Thinking about getting new tyres for occasional bikepark rides. Currently running 3.0 Nobby Nics which are great for my local trails.


Had a friend of mine doing that. He loved it - lower weight, better on the jumps, ability to run higher pressures. He is currently running them on his Pivot Firebird.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Outlier73 said:


> Epic dude, those are my exact symptoms before the freehub went. It started w feeling a bit off and I checked the rear wheel and found the hubs had loosened. I had the bike shop fix it since I didn't have the right cone wrench and that's when they told me to keep an eye on the hub as they are known to die.
> 
> ....around this time I had replaced my chain and I started hearing popping every once in a while. I thought it was related to the chain. But then the freehub died about two or three rides later.
> 
> ...


Yesterday I pulled apart the hub, checked all the pawls and the engagement ring (ratchet teeth). Everything looked fine. It's not a real high quality hub but the ring appears to be replaceable if it were damaged. Anyway, I cleaned and re-greased the pawl & ring with DT Swiss grease designed for freehubs and reassembled.

Maybe the problem is just poor tolerances and once in a while the pawls don't perfectly lock into the ring. If this is the case, then if you are really hammering on the down stroke I can see breaking a pawl.

I'll keep an eye on it but for now I see nothing that needs to be covered under warranty.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Good news Epic_dude. On a side note my friend's Hi Lo rear hub also just died and since he bought his bike new, he bought it to the dealer and specialized replaced it w a new Roval (DT Swiss internals) rear wheel!


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Bumba said:


> Is someone running 2.8" Minions on the Stock 29mm wheels?
> 
> Thinking about getting new tyres for occasional bikepark rides. Currently running 3.0 Nobby Nics which are great for my local trails.





Thustlewhumber said:


> Had a friend of mine doing that. He loved it - lower weight, better on the jumps, ability to run higher pressures. He is currently running them on his Pivot Firebird.


I didn't run 2.8 Minions but ran 2.8 rekon+ for a short period of time. They were a big upgrade in grip from my worn down 3.0 GC rear. However I didn't like them. They lowered the Stumjumper 6 fattie a bit to much for my liking. Pedal strikes weren't too bad but that's only because I didn't have the confidence to pedal through some sections for fear of hitting my pedal. In addition the lower bike made the bike feel smaller somehow and I felt I was more forward on the bike. So I sold the tires and went back to 3.0 purgatorys front and rear (grid casing).

However, I didn't run into any issues on the i29 rim despite maxxis recommending a wider rim. I ran as high as 19psi rear and 18 front and went as low as 17psi rear and 16psi front (if I remember correctly) I'm about 210 with water and gear. ...with that said 2 of my rides on the Rekon's was in the snow so I wasn't pushing high g corners. But the other two rides I didn't run into any problems with the i29 rims.

To compare to the new 3.0 purgatory grid tires, I felt the front tire wall folding a bit on my last ride when pushing hard on a berm with about 15.5-16psi front. so I'm going to have to go at least 16.5 on these new tires when I think I could have gotten away with 15.5 or 16 with the Rekons. ...I know these are not the Minions you are asking about hopefully this is somewhat helpful.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The 2.8 maxxis tires (DHF/HR2/Rekon+) all measure 2.68" wide on my 38mm rims. The 3.0 Purgatory and GC measure just about 3.0 on my 38mm rims. There is a big performance jump, but like ^^^ posted, then are smaller and will drop your BB a decent amount. I replaced the 3.0 CG on my Fuse with 2.8 Rekon+ and I love the way it rides now, but it is pretty low. 
All be aware the DHF and HR2 2.8s have insanely huge knobs. Maxxis not only makes the casing bigger, then upside the knobs too. The DHF looks like a freaking Moto tire and the HR2 2.8 might be the slowest rolling tire I ever used. If you wanted to up the performance a DHF/Rekon+ combo would be pretty sweet.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The XO carbons cranks are $199 plus 25% off = $150. The XO cranks and the X1 1400 cranks have removable spiders so you can replace them with a DM ring.
> Both the X1 1400 aluminum crankset come with a 32t ring for $139 with 25% off that price for a total of $104.25! Pretty sweet deal if you dont want to go carbon.
> 
> The extra 25% off is added in the cart.


I did order a set. At $150 I could not pass it up. Almost ordered a chain ring too. Then I realized my stock one will work fine for now.


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## bbunnys (Aug 28, 2016)

Anyone tried a 29+ tire in the Stumpjumper. Mines a 2016 29r/27.5+ model. Wondering if a 2.8 wide 29r tire will fit.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The 2.8 maxxis tires (DHF/HR2/Rekon+) all measure 2.68" wide on my 38mm rims. The 3.0 Purgatory and GC measure just about 3.0 on my 38mm rims. There is a big performance jump, but like ^^^ posted, then are smaller and will drop your BB a decent amount. I replaced the 3.0 CG on my Fuse with 2.8 Rekon+ and I love the way it rides now, but it is pretty low.
> All be aware the DHF and HR2 2.8s have insanely huge knobs. Maxxis not only makes the casing bigger, then upside the knobs too. The DHF looks like a freaking Moto tire and the HR2 2.8 might be the slowest rolling tire I ever used. If you wanted to up the performance a DHF/Rekon+ combo would be pretty sweet.


I'm loving the 2.8 DHF and Rekon combo on my i40 Scraper rims. I tried the High Roller on the back of my 29er last summer and that was the hardest rolling, heaviest pedaling tire I have ever tried. Took it off after two rides and switched to the Agressor in the rear and the Rekon+ looks and feels very similar to the Aggressor. Kind of like a bigger brother. LOL


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Well, the XO crank showed up. It does not fit correctly. Spindle is too short.


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Well, the XO crank showed up. It does not fit correctly. Spindle is too short.


Maybe you got PF instead of GXP version? Remove some spacers maybe?.
.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

Short spindle fit fine. They use a narrower spacer on the drive side. It should have come with it, mine did.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Mr. Lynch said:


> Short spindle fit fine. They use a narrower spacer on the drive side. It should have come with it, mine did.


Yep, that's the ticket. My XO BB30 cranks also came with the narrow spacer, everything fit fine once the correct spacer was installed.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

It fits but now the front sprocket is 6 mm inboard from where it should be. I certainly can not run any larger than a 28. It physically works. It is not right though


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## JCL (Oct 17, 2006)

If you have enough clearance use the 6mm offset ring. It will reduce wear on your cassette.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I have a 3mm boost ring. I need another 6mm. It looks like a Race Face spindle will work. I just need not figure out which one I need.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Your SJ6F should have already had a chainring with Boost spacing from the factory, just move that ring to the new crankset. That's what I did anyway.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I did use the stock chain ring. The spindle is shorter requiring a 9mm spacer instead of the stock 15mm spacer. This move the sprocket and crank arm inboard aprox. 6mm.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

I'm trying to understand why the new crankset is not working for you. It should have been as easy as removing the old PF30 crankset, moving the factory boost chainring to the new crankset, replacing the spacer with the one that came with the new crankset, then torquing the crankset to spec along with taking up the last bit of tolerance with the integrated preload adjuster. The spindle length should not be an issue and would not cause the factory boost ring to be out of alignment if the crankset is properly installed.

Here are instructions from SRAM: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2014_xx1_service_manual_0.pdf


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Those instructions apply to a PF30 non-boost frame. Sounds like he needs the BB30 Long Spindle crankset which is what I run on my 29/6Fat. For correct chainline it requires a Zero offset chainring. A typical 6mm offset chainring places the ring right into the boost spaced chainstay or runs the chainline against the tire.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Stock the crank has a longer spindle. When you use a "normal" spindle. You use a shorter spacer. This moves the crank arm closer to the bottom bracket. Seems pretty simple. Now the sprocket is extremely close to the chain stay yoke.


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

Luckyluc said:


> Any1 replace thier headset bearings yet. If so with what? I can't seem to keep my stock head set tight for more than a couple of rides.


I went with the Cane Creek 40 Series, (nevermind, that number doesn't mean jack)

LBS had to shove some shims between the wedge and dust cap thingy. I'm no expert on bike repair, just learning the hard way.

Edit : above, wrong number, 
Edit : Below is the correct number, best I can tell.

The 2016 FSR Comp Carbon uses the IS42/IS52 tapered set. 
Link - 42/52

Cane Creek HS Link - Finder


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

NothinSpecial said:


> I went with the Cane Creek 40 Series, Item #CC-I40S.
> 
> LBS had to shove some shims between the wedge and dust cap thingy.


I was just getting on this thread to search for this exact information. Do you by any chance have the actual Cane Creek Part#?

Since that was easy, next question. Thoughts on oval chainrings? I know its probably better to ask in the drivetrain section but was curious if anyone with the 6fattie had used one, not just a general answer across the board.


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## NothinSpecial (Jul 21, 2015)

I love how the wheel width mess is still going on. I've raised hell at shops all over town trying to get an answer, no one really has any idea why they'd keep putting 29mm wheels on the stumpy but 38 on the lower end fuse..

I was thinking about going 27.5x2.6-2.8 but then found out how much it would drop my BB, i already get pedal strikes all day. 

Instead I just ordered a set of Ibis 938's with a 2.5 DHR. Maxxis has a 29x3 I'd prefer a 2.8ish as part of my strategy with going 29 was to lose a little rolling resistance. The other half of my strategy is to maintain amazing levels of grip.

I have no idea what I'm going to run in the back, they have a DHR II 2.4 WT, again, I'd prefer a 2.6ish in the back.. 



Maxxis needs to hurry up and release the Rekon in the 29x2.6, even an Aggressor in the 2.5-6 would be sweet, I've seen the DHF/Aggressor is a hot combo. 


It feels like most of the 29 mid-plus/kinda-fat/not-quite-plus-size tires are fronts and the back needs to catch up.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

crfnick56 said:


> I was just getting on this thread to search for this exact information. Do you by any chance have the actual Cane Creek Part#?
> 
> Since that was easy, next question. Thoughts on oval chainrings? I know its probably better to ask in the drivetrain section but was curious if anyone with the 6fattie had used one, not just a general answer across the board.


I built my Expert frame up so I used the Cane Creek mentioned above instead of what I believe is an FSA on the complete frames. With the Cane Creek, not sure about FSA, you will need to stack a bunch of shims under the headset cap to shim it up off the frame. I have an easy 2.5mm, possibly more, of shims stacked in mine to get it where it needed to be. I'd get a shim kit at the same time you get the headset you can put it to use right away.

Lower IS 52:
Cane Creek 40 IS-52 Lower Headset Assembly 1.5

Upper IS:
Cane Creek 40 IS Upper Headset Assembly 1-1/8" CA 42mm

As for Oval, I use one on my singlespeed and just bought a OneUp 30T Sram Direct Mount for my Expert but Art's only had the 6mm offset version which turns out doesn't fit a Boost frame with the Sram long spindle BB30 so I'm sourcing a zero-offset oval right now.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Wolftooth has the oval Sram direct mount chain ring. I like the oval. The 29mm rims are used to save weight. They work just fine. I cant tell the difference between 35's and the 29. I just dont see the big deal.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

NothinSpecial said:


> I love how the wheel width mess is still going on. I've raised hell at shops all over town trying to get an answer, no one really has any idea why they'd keep putting 29mm wheels on the stumpy but 38 on the lower end fuse..
> 
> I was thinking about going 27.5x2.6-2.8 but then found out how much it would drop my BB, i already get pedal strikes all day.
> 
> ...


I loved my DHF/ Agressor combo on my 29er. I now run the DHF/Rekon in 2.8 on scraper i40 rims and am loving this combo so far. My only slight complaint is the size of the knobs on the DHF, they honestly look like they belong on a motocross bike. I think they could have scaled down the knob size a it and still kept it a great gripping tire. That being said, it doesn't seem to slow down the rolling speed at all so I guess its not really a valid concern.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Oh My Sack! said:


> I built my Expert frame up so I used the Cane Creek mentioned above instead of what I believe is an FSA on the complete frames. With the Cane Creek, not sure about FSA, you will need to stack a bunch of shims under the headset cap to shim it up off the frame. I have an easy 2.5mm, possibly more, of shims stacked in mine to get it where it needed to be. I'd get a shim kit at the same time you get the headset you can put it to use right away.
> 
> Lower IS 52:
> Cane Creek 40 IS-52 Lower Headset Assembly 1.5
> ...


When you say shims under the cap, you are referring to just thin washer type shims, correct? If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the shim kit? All I can find are the spacers for under the stem.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

crfnick56 said:


> When you say shims under the cap, you are referring to just thin washer type shims, correct? If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the shim kit? All I can find are the spacers for under the stem.


Correct, regarding the application. They are typically very thin (.25, .5mm) stainless spacers(shims). I happened to have a few but when that didn't amount to a suitable height, I added a 1mm aluminum stem spacer to take up the extra space. They are mentioned but not easily found on Cane Creeks site and I had trouble sourcing their availability on other sites. I think JensonUSA and Universal showed them in kits and had them available for around $10.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

What are you guys using for rim tape. My Lbs has stans. Just not very wide


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

For me Stan's tape doesn't last long, I've gone with Gorilla Tape on my last two tubeless setups and don't plan on ever going back to Stan's Tape. Gorilla tape seals better and lasts longer.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Really? My gorilla tape became saturated and nasty over time. I never had issues with stans. I ight give it a whirl though.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Really? My gorilla tape became saturated and nasty over time. I never had issues with stans. I ight give it a whirl though.


I gave up on Stan's tape (and goo). Had similar results with Gorilla, so it's been Orangeseal tape for the last year or so with no issue. I generally use either 18mm or 24mm depending on the shape of the valley in the rim. My preference is to keep the tape edge well away of the bead since I've had the tape edge lift and ruin an otherwise good tape job just by removing and changing tires. Gorilla was real bad for that. Now, Slime is now offering a good tape that's somewhat similar to Orangeseal, not quite as thin, but they gave me a big roll and I have done 2 wheels so far and it went on nicely.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Oh My Sack! said:


> I gave up on Stan's tape (and goo). Had similar results with Gorilla, so it's been Orangeseal tape for the last year or so with no issue. I generally use either 18mm or 24mm depending on the shape of the valley in the rim. My preference is to keep the tape edge well away of the bead since I've had the tape edge lift and ruin an otherwise good tape job just by removing and changing tires. Gorilla was real bad for that. Now, Slime is now offering a good tape that's somewhat similar to Orangeseal, not quite as thin, but they gave me a big roll and I have done 2 wheels so far and it went on nicely.


My LBS sourced Hayes/sun ringle tubeless tape, 38mm wide, working perfect with Stan's sealant on my Easton arc 35 rims

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

*Shockwiz testing*

Been awhile since I posted in here but I figured I would share something I think will be pretty cool. So I was one of the first few that switched out the Air sleeve to the Evol sleeve. As you know when you do that you will need to run more pressure to get the correct sag and I always wondered if I was really needing that high psi and getting the right sag.

Well I got a new tool in this week the Shockwiz. You attach it to your fork or shock and it will record all kinds of data and help you setup your suspension with the app.

I just set it up on my rear since it's the place I have the least confidence in on my setup. Attached you can see how I have it attached and my no sag pressure and with me on it and the sag I have. FYI I am 6'2 230lbs and ride an XL 6 Fattie.

I plan on ridding it tomorrow and getting dialed in according to the app


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Why is it saying 324 psi? Super interested. I would love to try the shockwiz. Looks interesting


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

The Evol sleeve is a higher volume can which requires about 50PSI more than standard to achieve the same sag. Where normal cans max out at 300psi the Evol is 350psi. So combine that with my weight and I am at 324psi to get 34% sag, I actually need to add probably 10psi more to get below 30% sag.

If you search this thread you can find out more about what the Evol can does and why a number of us switched to it last year.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I see. I am running about 20% by eyeball. It is really working well for me. 130# in the fork. 16/18 tire pressure as the trails are a bit soft here. I am right about your weight. I am riding jump lines. Some xc-ish trails. This bike just gets down and rips! My rear rebound is 6 out. Not exactly sure where the fork is at. I had a great ride today. The bike worked so well. Can you tell I am geeked?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I am 92psi up front and 3 clicks out on rebound. In the back I am full slow on rebound and it feels like I need to go a bit slower. Now I will be able to tell for sure. I am running the Purgatory Grids at 15 front 18 rear.

Glad you're geeked, I have had this bike for a year now and still love riding it every day. My son rides one as well and he loves it and his skills are beyond mine for everything but really chunky downhills where I still just beat him out. He blows people away when he hits the jump courses as they think there is now way that bike will be able to handle it and he makes it look easy.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I have doubts in the actual pressure my shock pump is reading. I am about 20-25% sag. This kept the bike from being too active. This is from my own experimentation. I started with rebound 1 out. That really made the rear pack up. I went to 5 out and that is about perfect. I think your shockwiz will have you trying all kinds of things that will be better. I dont like dead suspension feel. From my mx background I know people tend to slow the rebound down too much and run compression stiff. My 14 year old is ripping the jumps too. He is on a camber. It is about time for a new bike. He is out growing his medium.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I ran the stock can at 20-25% sag, which was necessary to have enough support to keep from tagging pedals when hammering rocky trails. I gently bottomed out a lot but only rarely had a harsh bottom out. The EVOL can does not like to be run at less than 30% sag. I added enough pressure to get to 27%, and it was much too harsh. It provides much more support mid-stroke and takes some convincing to gently bottom out. I do find myself reaching for the compression damping more often these days, but that is partly a reflection of the smoother terrain that my current riding crew prefers. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Interesting. Not sure the Evol can is for me. Maybe it needs volume reducers to get it somewhere in the middle? I will be riding a trail that has a jump line this weekend. I am excited to try this setup there. Thanks phride. I think we are somewhat on the same page setup wise. I was really pumped how the bike rode yesterday. I had the compression in the middle setting. I enjoyed how well the bike pedaled and jumped. Very confidence inspiring. It was very good.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Murchman - I'm a bit lost when it comes to Suspension tuning. are you interested in renting that Shock Wiz for a day or two? I'd love to dial in an aggressive setting for downhill areas and all around setting. 

I think i'm okay with the pressure but lost when it comes to dialing in rebound. First of all, if i'm sitting on the bike looking down on the shock is turning left (counter clockwise) closing down the shock? and same for the fork? (if the bike is upside down and you are looking down on the fork or shock, closing it down would be turning right or clockwise?) 

As you can tell, I don't play with the shocks much. - I set it when I got the bike, made and adjustment once and never touched again. ...actually I had my bike shop overhaul them and then I re-adjusted the pressure once.

Has far as adjustments go, I don't feel my shock "packing up" but I wonder it it does and I just don't know what it feels like. (probably not since i'm at a recommended setting but I think that shockwiz could tell me.)


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

While I would love to rent it to you it's not mine to rent, my great local drug dealer, I mean bike shop has lent it to me for testing as they are going to rent it out to riders and wanted my feedback.

To remember which direction picture looking at the red dial head on, full clockwise is full slow or the most damping. Same goes for the fork, picture yourself looking at it head on.

So the best way to tell how the rebound and compression effects your ride is to try it on the same section of trail in both the full open (counter clockwise) and then do the section again with full close. Now you will know the extremes and then you just keep doing the section adjusting in until the bike feels the most comfortable while giving good traction but not wallowing in the travel. Or you can get a shockwiz and let it help you dial it in which is what I am hoping for as well as my bike shop as you are not alone in not understanding it or every really adjusting it from the day you got it. When a bike is dialed in right there is no better feeling.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Yeah - every bike shop should buy a bunch of these to rent out. (or lend out to customers that buy bikes from them)

But thank for the confirmation on the rebound adjustment. And you are right - I need to make some time to go ride a section of trail wide open and closed down to really feel what too fast and too slow feel like. 

Thanks!


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I have doubts in the actual pressure my shock pump is reading. I am about 20-25% sag. This kept the bike from being too active. This is from my own experimentation. I started with rebound 1 out. That really made the rear pack up. I went to 5 out and that is about perfect. I think your shockwiz will have you trying all kinds of things that will be better. I dont like dead suspension feel. From my mx background I know people tend to slow the rebound down too much and run compression stiff. My 14 year old is ripping the jumps too. He is on a camber. It is about time for a new bike. He is out growing his medium.


Sounds like my sons progression, his first full suspension was the last year they made the Camber in a 26inch. He out grew that at 13-14 and we moved him up to the last year they made the Stumpy Evo 27.5. He just out grew that now that he is 6'3 and we moved up the 6 Fattie. They don't make them bigger than his XL so hopefully no more new bikes for him but he is only 15 so odds are I have at least one more bike I have to get him before he is on his own.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Also do it with your pressure, you might find the higher pressure in the front is actually faster when you push it harder but is not as comfortable a ride when just riding trail.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Outlier73 said:


> Yeah - every bike shop should buy a bunch of these to rent out. (or lend out to customers that buy bikes from them)


I am definitely asking my shop about this, as I'd like to rent it out. It would take several days to work-out the settings for the variety of places that I ride, but that's still much simpler than trying to figure out settings for those places at different times.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

phride said:


> I am definitely asking my shop about this, as I'd like to rent it out. It would take several days to work-out the settings for the variety of places that I ride, but that's still much simpler than trying to figure out settings for those places at different times.


One of my local shop rents them out!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I'm 180# and run 17/19 psi in the tires, and I run 95/195 in the shocks with 3 clicks off of full rebound. I also run in full "descend" mode the whole time.

Maybe a weird setup, but I find that when pushing hard the tires tend to soak up bumps first, then they give way to the suspension. The slow rebound gives the tires a chance to rebound first, with the suspension rebounding second. Lastly, the higher pressures in the suspension keeps it riding higher in the travel and prevents it from bottoming out on big hits. 

So basically, I'm letting the tires do their own thing sucking up all the small bumps, while the suspension is there for bigger hits. The slow rebound setting does a nice job of balancing the transition between the two. On the trail, its a very good all around setup.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Yep your right on with my findings. Due to the uncontrolled rebound of the tires I have to run more damping to slow it down


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

I have 2 of them to rent out. $450 deposit, $15 a day. You break it, you bought it. Otherwise I just send back your money minus the days you kept it. PM me if interested


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So here are the details of my rear shock data. I made no changes this is my standard. I thought my rebound would be off but it looks to be spot on. There is no way to change the compression settings without a custom tune and also no way to change the bottom out resistance. I also can't remove any spacers as I didn't put any in but will need to double check as I might have.

I am going to drop my baseline air pressure by 5% as it recommends and see what happens.


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## pharmkid85 (Mar 29, 2017)

Dont trust the rebound until the baseline pressure and air spring are tuned and green. There is an order to the tuning. Also rebound is one thing that I have found the ShockWiz to be pretty lenient on. I'm using playful though so maybe that has something to do with it.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I'm making the air pressure changes and will go for another ride in a couple of hours to see what it does. Since I am already at full slow on rebound I really can't make a change.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

So, you've just got way too much air in there. Pull that out and everything else will fall closer in line. You're 50 psi over recommended (BW+50), so don't be shy about removing 10% or more, so you can bracket and zero in on the settings.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Aggressive mode will give you the softest tune. Be aware of that. By the way, your rebound is too slow.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

At 300 psi I bottom too much and pedal strikes are high. Went down to 315psi as recommend by the app and it was happy and in the green and had me at 35% sag. As for rebound it stayed green and I wish I could slow it up two or three clicks when at the DH park but that will be handled soon as it's getting a custom tune next month. 

As for the shockwiz it's a great tool and validated a lot of my settings and feelings. The big issue is cost as it's just to much right now to justify buying one out right, $400 for a set of two would be a good deal but for just one it's a bit much. 

Wish list would be able to export the data instead of having to take screen shot. It would also be great if you could see the data from the session in a graph etc. I get that they are trying to keep it simple and easy but would like an advanced or geek mode. Also it would be really great if it could act like sensor and feed into a Garmin or better yet the Garmin Virb so you can see the data on an overlay of the video like you can heart rate, speed, etc.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Don't forget Watts. You aren't truly geeking until you've got a Watt meter to go with your HRM. 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I'd be interested in seeing the latest data. No need for spacers still?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

Murchman said:


> At 300 psi I bottom too much and pedal strikes are high. Went down to 315psi as recommend by the app and it was happy and in the green and had me at 35% sag. As for rebound it stayed green and I wish I could slow it up two or three clicks when at the DH park but that will be handled soon as it's getting a custom tune next month.
> 
> As for the shockwiz it's a great tool and validated a lot of my settings and feelings. The big issue is cost as it's just to much right now to justify buying one out right, $400 for a set of two would be a good deal but for just one it's a bit much.
> 
> Wish list would be able to export the data instead of having to take screen shot. It would also be great if you could see the data from the session in a graph etc. I get that they are trying to keep it simple and easy but would like an advanced or geek mode. Also it would be really great if it could act like sensor and feed into a Garmin or better yet the Garmin Virb so you can see the data on an overlay of the video like you can heart rate, speed, etc.


You are really making me want that Shockwiz!!! I looked it up a few weeks ago and read a bunch of reviews and found out there was no local shops that had one to try/rent. I've been kicking around the idea of just biting the bullet and buying one and renting it out to local riders to recover some of the purchase price. If you don't mind me asking, what does your local shop charge to use it for a day or however they do it?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

phride said:


> I'd be interested in seeing the latest data. No need for spacers still?
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Sorry had hockey all day yesterday with my son, and we will be at Road Atlanta all day today watching the superbikes. I hope to get a ride in tomorrow. Since the app doesn't save your data I can't go back and show the data and I didn't grab screen shots :-(. i have it setup on my fork now so the data on the device itself has been reset.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

crfnick56 said:


> You are really making me want that Shockwiz!!! I looked it up a few weeks ago and read a bunch of reviews and found out there was no local shops that had one to try/rent. I've been kicking around the idea of just biting the bullet and buying one and renting it out to local riders to recover some of the purchase price. If you don't mind me asking, what does your local shop charge to use it for a day or however they do it?


Not sure they have come up with a price yet, I am the first to test it even the shop guys hadn't had a chance to run it. I can't imagine it will be too much but I will try to find out when I return it.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Murchman, I must be right in the same area as you. I wouldn't mind giving the ShockWiz a try, please fill me in on the details and what shop might have one to rent/try.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

Hello! Of those who have changed your 29 mm wheels for wider ones, what measure have you put? And really worth it? I am thinking of changing them and I have serious doubts, it is for an enduro use
Thanks


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

Eduvan said:


> Hello! Of those who have changed your 29 mm wheels for wider ones, what measure have you put? And really worth it? I am thinking of changing them and I have serious doubts, it is for an enduro use
> Thanks


http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-wider-wheels-6fattie-1021373.html


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Epic_Dude said:


> Murchman, I must be right in the same area as you. I wouldn't mind giving the ShockWiz a try, please fill me in on the details and what shop might have one to rent/try.


The shop is Outspokin bikes in Canton right down the street from Blankets Creek my home trail an about 2 miles from my door step. I haven't returned it back to them yet so I don't know the details on when they will start renting them out and the cost. Once I get it back I will post the details on the rentals.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

I finally got around to replacing my dropper post cable since mine was getting really chewed up where it enters the frame. For anyone that ever had a thought of replacing theirs, one word of advice..... DON'T!!!

I fought with the outer housing of the cable for 2 hours last night trying to get it to make the bend and enter the tiny little hole they give you at the bottom of the seat stay, all working through the access hole big enough to get my pinky finger in. I'm almost considering pulling my crank arms off and seeing it I can somehow get more space through the bottom bracket to make it turn the corner up the seat stay. I had the thought of just taking to the LBS (which is an hour drive away) but stupid me, I thought to myself "how hard can it be?"

Disclaimer, this is on an aluminum comp model, so not sure if the carbon will be different.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

So you just put together a comprehensive text why it's well worth to choose the carbon frame ;-)

I had to strip my bike completely when I hit a big rock with my BB and cracked the outer carbon layers. The carbon repair service requested the frame to be sent in butt naked. 

So I know very well how to reroute all the wires and hoses through the frame, and thanks to the SWAT door opening and to the moulded routing pipes within the downtube that was really quite easy to manage...

I guess thats the secret, _real_ reason for the SWAT box ;-)

tapatalk'd from something mobile


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

These just arrived. i39 crabon asymmetric hoops. Building them up with some Pro 4's. Birthday present for my GF's 6F .

View attachment 1135254


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Yeah. I do most of the work on my bike but let my shop deal with the internal cables (and the fork). The internal cable routing on the Comp 6Fattie is ugly. I was going to tackle the dropper and then the rear derailleur cable, but I took one look and had flashbacks to messing with poorly designed internal cabling from the 90s and brought it in to the shop.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

RS VR6 said:


> These just arrived. i39 crabon asymmetric hoops. Building them up with some Pro 4's. Birthday present for my GF's 6F .
> 
> View attachment 1135254


I'm building Nextie JFX 52's on Sram900- can't wait to roll them!


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## GuzziBen (May 18, 2015)

I fed the dropper cable front to rear, finding that little window on the front was no picnic.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

I want to buy a new set of carbon rims and I don't know if 35 mm or 42 mm (internal). 
Any body with xperiencie can help me? 
I do a enduro - all mountain use of my ST, 

Thanks a lot.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I would go 42 . I dont thing 35 would be a huge difference. After hitting faster trails I noticed some squirming. I went up to 22 psi in the rear. I found that if felt squirmy again. I went back and found that the dirt under the tire was causing the sensation. These tires feel weird when speeds pick up and cornering hard. More than just squirm.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I think it is from the huge amount of grip. When the tire slides it seems to be more subtle. I am half temped to try some wide 29" rims with a 2.35 aggressive tire. I met a guy on an Intense primer on the trail. He had a 2.35 hans damph on the front. It was easily as wide as my 3.0


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

*Raising BB*

I'm thinking about fabricating a custom link to raise the BB, but I would rather not go to the trouble if I can buy one. As much problem with low BB issues as there are with this bike, it seems like someone would be making something like this...

Specialized FSR 04-06 linkage - Suspension Modifications - Components | Mountain bikes & components by BETD


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

the low BB is not just an issue with the Stumpjumper but many modern day full suspension bikes. Manufacturers are going lower for a reason. I guess they believe at least that the benefits outweigh increase in pedal strikes. (personally I also wish it was a bit higher for my local trails but I'm getting used to it.)

But if you do go with something like this to raise the BB, you should probably get a longer fork to compensate or you'll end up w slammed front end.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The low bb really is not a huge issue imho. I had a bunch of pedal strikes at first. No I dont as I have adjusted. You just cant pedal in corners and on obstacles like a xc race bike or hard tail. Once you learn how much more speed you can carry into stuff, pedal strikes become less of a thing. Try running 20% sag for now. See if that helps


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Outlier73 said:


> the low BB is not just an issue with the Stumpjumper but many modern day full suspension bikes. Manufacturers are going lower for a reason. I guess they believe at least that the benefits outweigh increase in pedal strikes. (personally I also wish it was a bit higher for my local trails but I'm getting used to it.)
> 
> But if you do go with something like this to raise the BB, you should probably get a longer fork to compensate or you'll end up w slammed front end.


Adding 15mm on the rear would make it more neutral anyway in my opinion. I can't keep the front end down climbing with the 150mm fork.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> The low bb really is not a huge issue imho. I had a bunch of pedal strikes at first. No I dont as I have adjusted. You just cant pedal in corners and on obstacles like a xc race bike or hard tail. Once you learn how much more speed you can carry into stuff, pedal strikes become less of a thing. Try running 20% sag for now. See if that helps


I ride rough trails, and having to constantly stop pedaling at rocks and roots is a killer when I'm trying to keep up with people who don't have to stop. It really makes a difference.

I've messed around with the sag on the Monarch shock. I weigh 240, and maybe I need a different shock because if I set it with low sag I can't get half the travel out of it. It is too progressive.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

If the trails are that tough, the small amount of difference in bb height would not matter. I am 240 also. I still bottom it on some drops etc. You will learn to time your pedal strokes. Just trying to help based on my experiences. It is different than riding a hard tail or short travel full susp for sure.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

TNTall said:


> I'm thinking about fabricating a custom link to raise the BB, but I would rather not go to the trouble if I can buy one. As much problem with low BB issues as there are with this bike, it seems like someone would be making something like this...
> 
> Specialized FSR 04-06 linkage - Suspension Modifications - Components | Mountain bikes & components by BETD


Speaking of this linkage, what maintenance can we do or is there any required?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Outlier73 said:


> the low BB is not just an issue with the Stumpjumper but many modern day full suspension bikes. Manufacturers are going lower for a reason. I guess they believe at least that the benefits outweigh increase in pedal strikes. (personally I also wish it was a bit higher for my local trails but I'm getting used to it.)
> 
> But if you do go with something like this to raise the BB, you should probably get a longer fork to compensate or you'll end up w slammed front end.


Are theree any East coast MTB manufacturers? I'd like to see their opinion on whether the increased stability of a low BB outweighs the impact of pedal strikes.

You can also get some taller riser bars to compensate for the higher back end, if you don't want to throw down for a new fork. It alters the geometry somewhat relative to lengthening the fork, but not a lot.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

When the center of gravity is about 4ft off the ground for the average cyclists, I'm thinking a higher BB is more important. Not sure why bike manufacturers are producing bikes with a low BB. There isn't going to be a difference in stability between a 13-1/2" and 12-1/2" BB that close to the ground...but there will be a difference in the increased chance of pedal strikes. 

A dropper post is more effective for stability than lowering the BB. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

phride said:


> Are theree any East coast MTB manufacturers? I'd like to see their opinion on whether the increased stability of a low BB outweighs the impact of pedal strikes.
> 
> You can also get some taller riser bars to compensate for the higher back end, if you don't want to throw down for a new fork. It alters the geometry somewhat relative to lengthening the fork, but not a lot.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Lynskey

Their Ridgeline FS 29-140 has the same BB height as the SJ 29".

The problem is losing 7mm or more for the shorter 27.5+ wheel/tire. That 1/4" makes a difference.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Its about having the bottom bracket lower than the axles, which drops your overall CoG. So you have the dropper, the burrito in the swat box, and your weight in your feet which means a much lower overall CoG for much more stability at speed. Learning pedal timing and pedal ratcheting will go a long way to preventing pedal strikes.

I converted my wife's Trek Fuel 29er to 2.8's, and she would get pedal strikes all the time. Ironically, since getting the 6fattie, she rarely if ever gets a pedal strike.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Just heard from my LBS that the Specialized rep said they would be offering a new linkage that will raise the BB. It's supposed to be available around late July. So I'll be waiting for that instead of making my own.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

That's awesome. With cornering and descending stability to spare, I would definitely give-up a little of that in exchange for additional clearance pedaling through the chunk.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

TNTall said:


> Just heard from my LBS that the Specialized rep said they would be offering a new linkage that will raise the BB. It's supposed to be available around late July. So I'll be waiting for that instead of making my own.


Any links on the web about this? Would love to see a photo or two. Also, would be cool if the rear triangle could be swapped out with one for the new all carbon ones for us with the 2016 expert/sworks.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Man, is it just me or are the stock tires slooooow? I rode a pivot mach 6 with 27.5 Maxxis high roller 2's and it felt way faster. Even up hill! 160mm travel enduro bike. I never noticed how slow they felt before.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

From my experience with HR2's that's the worst insult I could think of.

And from only a demo on a carbon wheeled 6fattie I don't agree. Maybe I'd feel differently with more time on a 6fattie, but I doubt it given how I feel about how slow HR2's are. Just about any other tire and I probably wouldn't feel so strongly.


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

HR2 are some of the slowest tires ive ever used. The 2.8 model were roll like tank tread but are surprisingly sketchy when cornering hard. Even the 2.3 version I had on my trail bike felt slow.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

TNTall said:


> Adding 15mm on the rear would make it more neutral anyway in my opinion. I can't keep the front end down climbing with the 150mm fork.


I agree with this theory and I am in process of rectifying it for my 6Fattie. I preface this with I set my bikes up very different than most people seem to do in these forums.

The 6Fettie BB, at least in New England area, seems a little low for me. I also don't like the HT angle for my type of riding. For me, 68-68.5 degree seems to be my comfortable HT angle. I actually loved my 2015 Camber EVO with a 130mm fork. One of the best bikes I've owned. Wish they made that in plus configuration. The 2015 Camber HT was 68.5 stock and about 68 with the extra fork travel.

So I am "zagging" while most people are "zigging". I bought a Bike Yoke for my 6Fattie. I bought a Monarch Plus at 7.5" X 2.0". This shock mounted on the Bike Yoke is about 2mm longer E2E just because of the Bike Yoke design. I will use offset bushings to make the E2E longer (adjustable from 2-4mm). I can dial in the HT angle closer to what I like. It will raise the BB 7-12mm and provide and extra 5-7~ish mm of travel due to the 2-3mm longer shock stroke.

I wind up with 6Fattie with 150F/140~R travel, HT at about 68, with the extra BB height. It seems better balanced for me, not one downside for my riding. I realize it is not for the masses, but it's how I like it to be.

I may have wasted a lot of time to get to this point if Specialized comes out with new linkage. Oh well. I still get what I want.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

i39 Apex asymmetric carbon hoops with Hope Pro 4 hubs and DT Swiss Competition spokes.

Weight without the Stan's rim strip and Specialized valves. I forgot to weigh it with them installed.

Rear: 945gr
Front: 825gr

The Purgatory actually measures a legit 3.0 from lug to lug. The GC in the rear is just shy of 3.0 at around 2.96. The sidewalls are tucked in nicely.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

RS VR6 said:


> i39 Apex asymmetric carbon hoops with Hope Pro 4 hubs and DT Swiss Competition spokes.
> 
> Weight without the Stan's rim strip and Specialized valves. I forgot to weigh it with them installed.
> 
> ...


Nice upgrade! Makes me want to get a set for my SJ6F.


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## arka (Apr 28, 2010)

For those of you who installed an eccentric bb adapter to raise the bb, did you try to dial it back to slightly lower bb and shorten chainstays? I put in the eccentric to be able to use my gxp carbon crankset, and to gain better clearance for the technical climbs, but I have to admit that I miss some of the stability and confidence that a super low bb inspires. I consider rotating it rearwards for bike park days where descending capability is more important than pedaling, and I think the short chainstays would make the bike super playful and manualable  Anyone tried this?


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## scottay (Jan 5, 2004)

Chainstays will be the same length. Your "reach" will change, and your chain length will change. But the stays will remain the same.


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## screamingbunny (Mar 24, 2004)

Been too long since we've had a stoke pick


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Eduvan said:


> I want to buy a new set of carbon rims and I don't know if 35 mm or 42 mm (internal).
> Any body with xperiencie can help me?
> I do a enduro - all mountain use of my ST,
> 
> Thanks a lot.


Of the two, I would go for the 35mm. This due to current tire design.

I have both an 38 and 40mm internal rim and most 3.0 tires on those already have more sidewall width than knob width.

Putting a 2.8" tire on a (internal)42mm would make the tire profile very flat, and expose the sidewall to every rock and root out there on the trail.

For aggressive, high speed riding (enduro/all mountain) most people seem to want to go down in tire size to reduce bounce and squirm a bit anyway.

I would say 2.8" tires on i35mm should provide the right mix of sidewall support, reduced bounce handgrip. It's also lighter than a wider rim and tire, and since that's unsprung weight, your suspension will work better.

The drawback of 2.8's on a Stumpy 6Fattie is that the BB will be very low.
Get some short cranks and keep the suspension riding high.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

Yep, long ago super tacky High Roller's were the slowest tire I have ever fealty too.


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## arka (Apr 28, 2010)

scottay said:


> Chainstays will be the same length. Your "reach" will change, and your chain length will change. But the stays will remain the same.


Well, yes and no. Of course the actual length of the chainstays will remain. But in a geometry sense the CS length is measured from the centre of BB to the centre of the rear axle, and this number seriously affects handling and "feel" of the bike.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

So after 1.5 yrs of ownership of a 2016 Expert and numerous pedal strikes I never really adapted to changing my pedal stroke/cadence. I decided to make some changes because I love the bike. I started with a set of RaceFace Next cranks in 170mm length and a new Wheels Mfg angular bearing bottom bracket.

First ride was at a favorite spot that is quite rocky & chunky did an 18 mi loop, now I'm not 
super smart or 100% accurate but if I were to make an uneducated guess I think that it eliminated 50% of the pedal strikes. Thats not because I wanted it to even though that was the goal, I went in quite skeptical thinking "how much 5mm would matter" but it was noticeable. It also seemed like I could spin a taller gear if that's even possible.

My next step is converting the fork to 160mm and switching to an Evol can on my dps shock. Hoping the higher air volume on the shock will keep it riding higher in the stroke. IDK we'll see, that's all happening this week so I'll report back before the Holiday and let ya all know it all worked out.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Mine is setup with the Race Face turbine 170mm with a 29+ front wheel and stock suspension and haven't had any pedal strikes or bottom bracket issues since then. Guess the suspension will cost about the same as a 29+ carbon wheel.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

^^^you're probably correct bud, I never thought of trying that cause I'm extremely happy with the 27.5+ tires but would have come close to achieving the same end result. Would have still went the the Evol can out back though.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Yep, in my case moving to 170mm cranks decreased the incidence of pedal strikes by more than 50%. I'm going to have to try that 29+ front wheel trick. I've got a Trek Stache, so it would be easy for me to swap out the front wheel.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Has anyone tried swapping to a 29 x 2.6 set of wheels/tires? Any thoughts on the riding effects?


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

bad andy said:


> Has anyone tried swapping to a 29 x 2.6 set of wheels/tires? Any thoughts on the riding effects?


Wondering the same. Also wondering what rim width is ideal for anything over 2.3 wide? I see a lot of 29mm wide 29" wheels. I'm debating on selling my 27.5 wheels and just going 29er full time.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

bad andy said:


> Has anyone tried swapping to a 29 x 2.6 set of wheels/tires? Any thoughts on the riding effects?


I'm running a 29 x 2.6 nobby nic on the front with the i29 wheel. It makes a nice round profile and grips great. It's not as forgiving as the 3.0" tire, and I haven't decided if I'm ready to give up the 3. Maybe after my skills improve a little more.


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## J_Ghost (Sep 10, 2016)

Edit: nevermind, sorry.


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## crfnick56 (Mar 7, 2012)

TNTall said:


> I'm running a 29 x 2.6 nobby nic on the front with the i29 wheel. It makes a nice round profile and grips great. It's not as forgiving as the 3.0" tire, and I haven't decided if I'm ready to give up the 3. Maybe after my skills improve a little more.


And there is enough clearance for the 2.6 tire? I have been giving some serious thought to a set of 30mm 29er wheels with 2.5-2.6 tires.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

OK, first ride on the bike since changing to 160 air cartridge and the Evol can. The bike felt really good everywhere probably had a lot to do with the service that was done whilst it was apart but man it just seemed better. The shock now takes 350psi to achieve 30% sag and didn't seem to blow thru the mid stroke quite as fast as before. I'm going to ride a couple times this weekend on different trails and may still go with a spacer in there. Fork was awesome but did a little wondering on steeps, amazing what 10mm will do to slacken things up. Not a biggie though just scooted forward on the seat a tad and bent my arms a little more, leaned forward and cleaned everything. Oh, and not one pedal strike last night!

Things look to be sorted out the way I had hoped.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

I posted this on the women's forum but this thread gets more traffic so thought I would try here just in case someone here has a Specialized Rhyme 6fattie. 

I have a 2016 Specialized Stumpjumper and need to get the shock tune changed for a lighter weight rider. I have ridden the Rhyme 6fattie and loved it, so would like to get that tune put on the Stumpy. Fox will do the tuning for $85 so I just need to find out what the Shock Tune Code is. If anyone out there has a 2016 Specialized Rhyme (6fattie prefered, but I am assuming they are all the same) can you let me know what the shock tune is. I need the code given on the Fox Shock just after it says Custom Tune, will be something like C2TZ. Thanks for you help!

Oh by the way some of you bigger guys could think about Fox tuning your compression on the 2016 shock. The code on my Fox Shock says Compression Light, Rebound Medium, Climb Firm. The service guy at Fox says Specialized always goes with Compression Light but that they can change your tune for $85 or do a complete overhaul service for $145 plus the $40 shim stack. 

Cheers, Jill


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Great news from the LBS, The big "S" just released new rear linkage for the bike. It raises the BB 6mm...YES! He has 4 on order, one with my name on it. Will be here in two weeks!

This ought to be just about perfect for me and my bike with everything I've done. Super excited! (Ya I know, don't take much these days)


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Any word on what it does to the HTA and the reach?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Nope, was to amped to care, lol. Shouldn't be bad at all. Should help me out since I went 10mm longer on the fork, so should help balance things out nicely and give a somewhat normal BB height.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

gdb85 said:


> Great news from the LBS, The big "S" just released new rear linkage for the bike. It raises the BB 6mm...YES! He has 4 on order, one with my name on it. Will be here in two weeks!
> 
> This ought to be just about perfect for me and my bike with everything I've done. Super excited! (Ya I know, don't take much these days)


Is it a longer yoke for the shock? This would be perfect for me. I need 2mm length for my Debonair to work. I'd have 4mm leftover to raise the BB a pinch. Any more info on this you can supply...part # or anything?


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## C.A.S.H. (Jun 23, 2010)

:madman:


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Oh My Sack! said:


> Is it a longer yoke for the shock? This would be perfect for me. I need 2mm length for my Debonair to work. I'd have 4mm leftover to raise the BB a pinch. Any more info on this you can supply...part # or anything?


Did not get any of the particulars, just took his word on it. He knows what I've been trying to achieve with eliminating pedal strikes. He told me as soon as I walked into the shop yesterday morn.

If it's misinformation I'll take my flaming lumps but he never speaks out of line to rumors and such. He's a very reputable dealer here in the "burgh".


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

gdb85 said:


> Great news from the LBS, The big "S" just released new rear linkage for the bike. It raises the BB 6mm...YES! He has 4 on order, one with my name on it. Will be here in two weeks!
> 
> This ought to be just about perfect for me and my bike with everything I've done. Super excited! (Ya I know, don't take much these days)


Please post the Specialized part number for the new rear linkage so I can ask my LBS to place an order.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

^^Don't have it, sorry. He's closed Mondays I'll try to have it by Tue but I'm sure someone will have it before then. If your shop is a Spesh dealer it should be available to them.


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Hi Guys, 
'17 Stumpie Fattie 6 Comp. RS Monarch RL rear shock.

The other day I crashed in a rocky climb and scratched the stanchion on my rear shock. It's not leaking yet, but it's got me a little worried. 

I know the "yoke" comes off the shock, so when I'm looking for a new take off/used unit what size shock am I looking for? 

I'm seeing these dimensions on units over on pinkbike and not sure what they are. 

for example 216 x 57, & 191mm x 51mm.

Thanks in advance.


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Yes, I've run almost every wheel/tire combo on the 6fattie. Very versatile frame for tire sizes. To eliminate pedal strikes, the 29+ front and 27.5+ rear is my favorite combo.

Personally, buying the 6F to run a 29x2.4 as a primary tire doesn't make sense... not what the bike excels at from a wheel/tire combo.

Largest I ever fit out back was a Panaracer FBN 3.0 which is only a 2.6"


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## darkhorse13 (Jun 20, 2011)

Oh My Sack!'s Avatar Join Date
Aug 2006
Posts
2,442
Quote Originally Posted by gdb85 View Post
Great news from the LBS, The big "S" just released new rear linkage for the bike. It raises the BB 6mm...YES! He has 4 on order, one with my name on it. Will be here in two weeks!

This ought to be just about perfect for me and my bike with everything I've done. Super excited! (Ya I know, don't take much these days)
Is it a longer yoke for the shock? This would be perfect for me. I need 2mm length for my Debonair to work. I'd have 4mm leftover to raise the BB a pinch. Any more info on this you can supply...part # or anything?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes it is a longer Manfu link. HT angle will be increased slightly. My LBS has been waiting since May for them. I have no part number or tech info.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

HT is sort of a non-issue for me. I built it with a Lyrik RCT3 160 so I really won't be losing much by making the change. I'm gonna go see my homies at Art's about this part today.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Hi Guys,
> '17 Stumpie Fattie 6 Comp. RS Monarch RL rear shock.
> 
> The other day I crashed in a rocky climb and scratched the stanchion on my rear shock. It's not leaking yet, but it's got me a little worried.
> ...


You're going to need a 197x48 with the proprietary Specialized eye for the yoke.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Oh My Sack! said:


> You're going to need a 197x48 with the proprietary Specialized eye for the yoke.


Or better still, get the shock you want along with this https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/specialized-stumpjumper-2016-2017.html

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Big Chris in NePa (Dec 8, 2015)

Oh My Sack! said:


> You're going to need a 197x48 with the proprietary Specialized eye for the yoke.


Thank you


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

phride said:


> Or better still, get the shock you want along with this https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/specialized-stumpjumper-2016-2017.html
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


I have been considering this new yoke in conjunction with a DBinline shock. However trying to decide if the DBinline will work and what size to buy is confusing. I know I will need to mount the shock upside down (Cane creek says no problem), but size is an issue. They make a 190 x 50 and a 200 x 50. The bikeyoke site says for use with 190 x 50 shock but the 200 x 50 is closer to the Specialized shock size. Any help would be appreciated.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

Big Chris in NePa said:


> Thank you


I sent you a PM regarding a shock.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> I have been considering this new yoke in conjunction with a DBinline shock. However trying to decide if the DBinline will work and what size to buy is confusing. I know I will need to mount the shock upside down (Cane creek says no problem), but size is an issue. They make a 190 x 50 and a 200 x 50. The bikeyoke site says for use with 190 x 50 shock but the 200 x 50 is closer to the Specialized shock size. Any help would be appreciated.


Figured this one out myself by actually reading the Bikeyoke explanation. Definitely want the 190 x 50 shock. Decision time.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

darkhorse13 said:


> Yes, I've run almost every wheel/tire combo on the 6fattie. Very versatile frame for tire sizes. To eliminate pedal strikes, the 29+ front and 27.5+ rear is my favorite combo.
> 
> Personally, buying the 6F to run a 29x2.4 as a primary tire doesn't make sense... not what the bike excels at from a wheel/tire combo.
> 
> Largest I ever fit out back was a Panaracer FBN 3.0 which is only a 2.6"


What 29+ have you settled on up front? I tested out the DHF 29x3 Wednesday in the parking lot after a ride. It just barely fit with shock fully compressed, but it fit, and there was sufficient mud clearance at the arch to make it a workable option. However, the front end seemed like it might get a bit floppy on steep climbs, based on how it felt on the moderate slope next to the lot. It might be a viable option for combining with the new linkage, which should compensate for some of the HTA slackening that comes with the larger wheel (or vice-versa, if you prefer).


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

gdb85 said:


> ^^Don't have it, sorry. He's closed Mondays I'll try to have it by Tue but I'm sure someone will have it before then. If your shop is a Spesh dealer it should be available to them.


I'm going to swing by my LBS this weekend. If you happen to have the part number, that would be awesome.


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## cyclonerusty (Feb 12, 2008)

I know people are upgrading their stock fattie wheelsets. I want to do the same and would like to know what you've all done and what your thoughts are etc.

gracias


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

*Roval Traverse Fattie 38 650b 148*



cyclonerusty said:


> I know people are upgrading their stock fattie wheelsets. I want to do the same and would like to know what you've all done and what your thoughts are etc.
> 
> gracias


Went with the Roval Traverse Fattie 38 650b 148 after destroying the stock i29 rear on my expert due to rim dings companied by pinch flats at 18-19psi on my weekly AM trail (granted it is a rough one and I run tubes w/o the new GRID tires). New wheels are noticeably different, much more support and so far no flats at same psi. Same tires feel stiffer with less squirm when pushed into the berms.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I built as a 9'r first and then built a set of RF Arc35 hoops on Hope Pro4's with DT Swiss Comp double-butted spokes. Couldn't be more pleased with performance and durability.

btw...still wondering about the mystical new yoke mentioned a few posts up. Any word? I called my dealer contact guy and he was out last week and I forgot to check back.


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## C.A.S.H. (Jun 23, 2010)

cyclonerusty said:


> I know people are upgrading their stock fattie wheelsets. I want to do the same and would like to know what you've all done and what your thoughts are etc.
> 
> gracias


I had Wheelbuilder.com built me a set of DTSwiss XM 521's 35mm internal with DT Swiss 350 hubs. I only have one ride on them so far, but I'm happy with them. I definitely feel a lot less flex/tire roll.


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## mitch. (Jun 21, 2017)

I've got mine setup with the DB Inline (7.5 x 2.0) + BikeYoke. The climb switch ends up being rotated 90 deg to fit.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

mitch. said:


> I've got mine setup with the DB Inline (7.5 x 2.0) + BikeYoke. The climb switch ends up being rotated 90 deg to fit.


Nice set up, Mitch! I've used the DB Inline on other bikes and liked it a lot, preferring it over Fox and Rockshox air shocks. Having the climb switch on the side is handy, and the adjustment screws are easier to access as well.

It looks like the DB Inline (190x50mm) is a little shorter and has a bit more travel than the OEM shock (197x48mm). Does the BikeYoke correct for the shorter length or does the bike sit a bit lower? How close does the rear tire come to the frame at full squish with the few mm of extra travel?


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Oh My Sack! said:


> I built as a 9'r first and then built a set of RF Arc35 hoops on Hope Pro4's with DT Swiss Comp double-butted spokes. Couldn't be more pleased with performance and durability.
> 
> btw...still wondering about the mystical new yoke mentioned a few posts up. Any word? I called my dealer contact guy and he was out last week and I forgot to check back.


My dealer has some yokes on order from Specialized, but he doesn't know when they're supposed to come in.

He also said installing a non-OEM yoke will void the warranty if Spec found out.


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## mitch. (Jun 21, 2017)

The Bike Yoke is designed for the 7.5 x 2.0 shock size so eye to eye is okay. There is still plenty of clearance with a 3.0 tire in the rear fully compressed. The air can has very little clearance inside the frame. I bought my bike used so there was no warranty to void.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

mitch. said:


> The Bike Yoke is designed for the 7.5 x 2.0 shock size so eye to eye is okay. There is still plenty of clearance with a 3.0 tire in the rear fully compressed. The air can has very little clearance inside the frame. I bought my bike used so there was no warranty to void.
> 
> View attachment 1148449


Is this an alloy or carbon frame? Measuring my carbon frame the can on the DBinline seemed to large to fit in the upper mount. I would have to try it, but in the meantime I got a really nice ohlins so I will see how that goes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mitch. (Jun 21, 2017)

Carbon frame. The air can has very little clearance in the upper mount.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

Jillride 44, cool color. It's the exact same color as my old Canondale F1000 from 1999. Was that from the build a stumpjumper program?


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## 6Fattie (May 21, 2017)

Has anyone tried the Cane Creek Coil with a Bike Yoke on a 6 Fattie?


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## OffTheTop (Sep 20, 2015)

For those of you that upgraded the rear shock on the 2016 to a Monarch, did you go with the Plus RC3 or the RT3? 

What were the main differences between the two that drove your decision? I am in the same boat but am having trouble deciding which one is better.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

OffTheTop said:


> For those of you that upgraded the rear shock on the 2016 to a Monarch, did you go with the Plus RC3 or the RT3?
> 
> What were the main differences between the two that drove your decision? I am in the same boat but am having trouble deciding which one is better.


I went with the Plus RC3. I did it because of past experience with these shocks. It works great and I have avalanche custom tune them for me. So I know exactly what the shock will be like. I have also had good luck with the RT3 and Avalanche on my Camber, but if your gonna do it, go big with the Stumpy. There really is no downside for me. For those who wish to use a full size water bottle beware that the Plus may interfere. I don't use water bottles, so no issue for me.


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## 6Fattie (May 21, 2017)

Can anyone confirm the 52mm O.D. air can on the DBInline is the same as the DBAIR IL ?


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## 6Fattie (May 21, 2017)

mitch. said:


> I've got mine setup with the DB Inline (7.5 x 2.0) + BikeYoke. The climb switch ends up being rotated 90 deg to fit.
> 
> View attachment 1148309
> View attachment 1148310


Does it not fit up the other way?


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

Tires Again! 

Has anyone run the Maxis Minion 3" on the Stumpy 6F? I'm currently running Pergs on front/rear and getting a lot of washouts now that summer is in full force here in the PNW. They have been great tires from late Fall to early spring with damp/muddy ground, but they are just not doing the job these days with dust/loose dirt.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

I'm now running the Chupacabra 27 X 2.8 in the rear and 29 x 3 in the front and their traction is great in all riding conditions and best part is that they don't leak. The only online vendor that has them in stock is Sunrise cyclery, here's their link;
Bontrager Chupacabra - www.sunrisecyclery.com


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Aprox 600 miles on the bike. 2016 comp. Rear hub bearings are toast. Due to a cassette failure at 200 miles. The chain was replaced. That chain is pretty much worn out. Sram PC1170 I believe. This chain was kept cleaned and lubed regularly.
The Fox shock still does not hold air. Leaks down 50 psi overnight. BB creaking issues. Headset issues. The paint is utter shat. It rubs off if you look at it. I love riding this bike but I think I got a lemon. So frustrated..


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Aprox 600 miles on the bike. 2016 comp. Rear hub bearings are toast. Due to a cassette failure at 200 miles. The chain was replaced. That chain is pretty much worn out. Sram PC1170 I believe. This chain was kept cleaned and lubed regularly.
> The Fox shock still does not hold air. Leaks down 50 psi overnight. BB creaking issues. Headset issues. The paint is utter shat. It rubs off if you look at it. I love riding this bike but I think I got a lemon. So frustrated..


Wow, that's too bad for you. My 2016 Carbon Comp 6Fattie has well over 800 miles in about 10 months, so far no issues, cassette is still good, still on my original chain. Fox shock is holding air like a champ, I set the pressure when I brought the bike home and have only checked the pressure a few times, never lost any air in the time that I've owned the bike. BB is silent, zero issues with the headset although I have disassembled the bars and stem, regressed and reassembled to eliminate some creaking. Bike has been rock solid for me, paint is in great shape, bike almost looks new. There are so many factors as to how reliable a bike is I won't even bother trying to compare why mine has been so good and yours has been so bad.

It's not my only bike and I ride and I ride about 2000 miles a year, all off road intermediate/advanced trails.


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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

Epic_Dude said:


> Wow, that's too bad for you. My 2016 Carbon Comp 6Fattie has well over 800 miles in about 10 months, so far no issues, cassette is still good, still on my original chain.


Unfortunately being still on your original chain, you can't be 100% sure that your cassette is "still good". I've learned this the hard way previously - I don't get 1000km (~600 miles) out of a chain - if I leave it on that long then I have to replace chain + cassette at once, and sometimes chainring too. Pretty silly of me considering how cheap a chain can be.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 - That's maddening! 
Epic_Dude - good to hear that your Comp is doing well! :thumbsup:

Chain life will depend on chain quality, your riding conditions, and maintenance. As phreeky pointed out replacing a chain is less expensive than replacing a cassettes or chainrings. Even with regular cleaning and oiling it's a good idea to check your chain for wear regularly. You can measure chain wear with a tool like the Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker shown below (or similar device) to see if has lengthened ("stretched") due to pin and roller wear.


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## Ailuropoda (Dec 15, 2010)

Update: Sold my 650 B Fattie. It was an OK bike but in the end the pedal strikes where just too annoying.


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

I've been riding my 2016 (bought Oct. '15) with 29" wheels on weekends this month. Today on some super sketchy steep trails I was saying to myself how happy I am with this bike. Next month I will go back to the 27+ format. I'm expecting pedal strike to go up a bit. 

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Photo for the record. The 29" wheels do improve the pedal clearance. The 27+ tires and wheels are my favorite on this bike though, I think.









Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

levity said:


> Gonzo 1971 - That's maddening!
> Epic_Dude - good to hear that your Comp is doing well! :thumbsup:
> 
> Chain life will depend on chain quality, your riding conditions, and maintenance. As phreeky pointed out replacing a chain is less expensive than replacing a cassettes or chainrings. Even with regular cleaning and oiling it's a good idea to check your chain for wear regularly. You can measure chain wear with a tool like the Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker shown below (or similar device) to see if has lengthened ("stretched") due to pin and roller wear.
> ...


I have the tool, chain is still good. I lube my chain before every ride and clean it often.

BTW, anyone have any feedback on the new rear link from Specialized that was mentioned here a few weeks back and is supposed increase BB clearance for the 6Fattie.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

^^^^^I inquired at my LBS yesterday as it's been 3 wks now since I was told two weeks until they hit the shop. Sadly if they exist, they're on back order.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

gdb85 said:


> ^^^^^I inquired at my LBS yesterday as it's been 3 wks now since I was told two weeks until they hit the shop. Sadly if they exist, they're on back order.


I've got one in order too ($60) but forgot to ask if they had an updated time on delivery. I believe they said the 2018 model now comes with the new yoke.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

Anyone have a specialized part# for the mystical new yoke?


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## bassness (Jul 27, 2017)

bad andy said:


> Anyone have a specialized part# for the mystical new yoke?


S184300001 is the part number for what Specialized calls the High BB Link. I ordered one from my LBS this past week. They said it should take about 10 days to get in.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Aprox 600 miles on the bike. 2016 comp. Rear hub bearings are toast. Due to a cassette failure at 200 miles. The chain was replaced. That chain is pretty much worn out. Sram PC1170 I believe. This chain was kept cleaned and lubed regularly.
> The Fox shock still does not hold air. Leaks down 50 psi overnight. BB creaking issues. Headset issues. The paint is utter shat. It rubs off if you look at it. I love riding this bike but I think I got a lemon. So frustrated..


Weird. I have ~1500 miles on mine with no issues. I am on my 4th chain, but I always change them every 500 miles no matter what. The "BB creaking noises" are 99% based on the Sram front chain ring wearing prematurely - switching to the more durable Race Face ring will cure that. I would also switch chain lube to something like Squirt moving forward for less noise and less drivetrain wear.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I have 16 months and 1,500 miles on my S-Works 6 fattie Stumpy. I just replaced my chain and had to replace the chain ring as well but my cassette had no issues and works like it did new. I have been using Maxima chain wax for at least 10 years on all my bikes and it does a great job, it's cheaper than bike specific lube and can be found at just about any motorcycle shop.

The only creaking I have is a noise from my headset when I hit the first square edge bump. I replaced the stock headset probably 1,000 miles ago with a cane creek so it probably just needs a cleaning.

We have two 6 Fatties in the house with my son riding the other expert model and he has put it through some abuse and everything is great on it as well. We did change out his headset bearings with Cane Creek a few months back but other than that and a broken chain due to a bent derailleur on a ride the bike is running like new.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I seem to have gotten a lemon. My paint is flat orange. My Trek Top fuel had zero issues after a season of riding. Not a scratch. Big S has some serious paint issues imho. The hub is just not very high quality for a bike at this price. Cheesy headset.
The rest is just freak stuff. It happens. Crappy heat treat on a cassette etc. Shock seems to be a lemon too. Rebound is too fast as well. I started airing my tires up a lot. 20/23 on average. Run my rear suspension at 20% sag. I really like the bike latley. Pedal strikes just happen on a longer travel bike. It took a while to adjust. It is not so bad.
When I finally learned to trust the tires, holy cow! You can rail some corners. Provided you have enough air in the rear. Lol


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

The headsets are total crap and a really bad way to cut corner on specialized part. 

Have you sent your shock in for warranty?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So my Purgatory 3.0 is weeping some mad amounts of fluid from the sidewalls. For the first maybe five to six months nothing...then in the past couple months...it starting to get worse and worse. I went to a local shop that sells Specialized and they told me that it's "normal". The tire has maybe 200 miles on it. The tire isn't losing any more air than normal. 

Should I get a new tire or just keep on riding it?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@RS VR6 -- The OEM Purgatories and Ground Controls that came on our 6Fatties in late 2015 and early 2016 were weeping Stans. Like yours they didn't lose air or significant amounts of sealant, and we never had any issues with their integrity. This was something new back then so we were worried and had them replaced under warranty. We immediately regretted doing so - the replacement tires were ~60 heavier, presumably with more rubber in the sidewalls. They did leak less, but we didn't like the weight penalty. Unless you're losing air or sealant I'd just stick with the ones you have. We've also had other brands of tires leak sealant thru the sidewalls with no ill effects.


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## phidauex (Apr 17, 2013)

RS VR6 said:


> So my Purgatory 3.0 is weeping some mad amounts of fluid from the sidewalls. For the first maybe five to six months nothing...then in the past couple months...it starting to get worse and worse. I went to a local shop that sells Specialized and they told me that it's "normal". The tire has maybe 200 miles on it. The tire isn't losing any more air than normal.
> 
> Should I get a new tire or just keep on riding it?


Probably fine to keep riding on it. I've got the same generation of OEM "Control" cased tires on my Fuse, and haven't had any weeping using Orange Seal instead of Stan's, which seems to be a bit thicker. I've heard from others as well that Orange Seal didn't weep through like the Stan's did. Could be worth a try if it is annoying you. Otherwise, just keep wiping off and topping up, and ride out the tires.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

My Grid purgatory in the rear weeps sealant but it's not big deal, I just wipe it down after a ride or the dirt from the next ride sticks to it and becomes mud, it doesn't weep anywhere near as much as the control tires did which is nice.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thanks for the replies. 

The GC on the rear is fine though. It just the Purgatory that's crying sealant. I'll just add another scoop of Stan's and ride on.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Use Orange instead. 

I got a newer Grid Purgatory from a guy who threw it in the trash because it was leaking Stan's so much. Like, overnight leaking out all the Stan's and leaving puddles on the floor type stuff. I switched it to Orange as a test, and while it still leaked, it was nowhere near as bad. It slowly stopped after a few weeks and hasn't leaked a drop in over 6 months.

I still have the original Purgatory on the front which has never leaked.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Murchman said:


> The headsets are total crap and a really bad way to cut corner on specialized part.
> 
> Have you sent your shock in for warranty?


The shop was swamped. I have an appointment to bring it in on Thursday. They are going to replace the wheel bearing too. Hopefully they have a loaner shock (they said they may). The shop said they are going to request a repacemen as it keeps leaking.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

bassness said:


> S184300001 is the part number for what Specialized calls the High BB Link. I ordered one from my LBS this past week. They said it should take about 10 days to get in.


I placed an order for the High BB Link here in Finland. I am supposed to get it by end of the month. Does anyone happen to know is the High BB Link supplied with necessary bearings?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I believe that it uses the same pivot bolts as the stock link. At least I hope so. Mine is supposed to arrive around the end if next week.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The shop just called. My link is in! Photos soon!


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

*Late to the wide rim Thing*



crfnick56 said:


> If it matters, I weigh 220 ready to ride and do my riding on literally every type of terrain, I have everything except rocky Moab type riding available to ride so I need something that can really be an all around setup. So far I have not noticed any issues with the stock 29mm wheels so I'm really wondering if the rims are really needed at this point.


I know this has been kicked to the curb, but I recently got the Roval i38 wheelset/rims from my LBS.

Original 2016 6fattie expert with i29 rims for over a year, rear pinch flats with rim dings on almost every other ride on my favorite rough AM trail even at 21psi - none on the local tame single track.

With the new wheelset same everything no flats @ 19 psi and dropping at the AM trail... also.. yes the tires don't squirm as much.

I'm 192lb but probably 200 ready to ride.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

No doubt the i38 would provide a stiffer sidewall. It really comes down to this. The bike was spec'd wit the i29, as the stumpjumper being full suspension should not run squishy air pressure. Running soft pressures negatively affects suspention performace. Also the i29 is lighter. The fuse comes with i38. Heavier rims. Can run lower pressure due to wider rims as this stiffens the sidewalls. Being a hard tail lower pressures are acceptable.
This may or may not be what you want for your setup. Specialized put more thought and testing into the rim spec than they get credit for. If your i29 are working for you why change them?


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

I ride i45's on my 6fattie and it rips. The i29's didn't feel as good to me. Plus it's simply a better wheelset.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I agree. I would like wider wheels. If he is not having issues. No big deal. The stock wheels are pretty good. Just not great for riding aggressive.


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

So I borrowed a set of 29er wheels from a buddy and have about a half-dozen rides on them so far. I do like the bike in this config and am contemplating building up a nice wheel set for 29 tires. My thoughts are to go with the 29 x 2.6 size for a pretty happy middle ground I think. Just a few thoughts on the experience so far...

effects I enjoyed:
i
increased BB height - nice to be able to get on the pedals sooner after/during cornering and rock gardens and otherwise tech sections I'd be ratcheting through previously
'lighter' feel to wheels - probably simply due to less rubber touching the ground
increased rollover was noticeable - there is something to it
'precision' of tires - the edge of the 2.4 tires is much more 'cutting' than a 3.0. Nice to feel that again

didn't enjoy:

a bit less traction - especially on the loose over hardpack areas. Couldn't rail this stuff as well and really had to pay more attention on line/leaning


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Think the 29x2.6 will actually fit in the back?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I do think it will. I just got a pair for my sons camber. Fits his stock recon 29'r fork.
I even think it will fit his rear. We will see.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Nobby Nic 29x2.6 on the 6Fattie*



boostenmkiv said:


> Think the 29x2.6 will actually fit in the back?


Here are two pics I took of the rear wheel Mrs levity's 2016 6Fattie Comp Carbon (men's small) with a 29x2.6 NN on a 30mm inner width rim.

The tire measures ~2.52-2.55" wide and has ~6mm clearance all around.

















Edit: I should add that these 29x2.6 NNs stand about 3/4" taller than the various 27.5x3.0 tires we've used (NN, RR, Purg, GC) so the bottom bracket is ~9mm higher.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

levity said:


> Here are two pics I took of the rear wheel Mrs levity's 2016 6Fattie Comp Carbon (men's small) with a 29x2.6 NN on a 30mm inner width rim.
> 
> The tire measures ~2.52-2.55" wide and has ~6mm clearance all around.
> 
> ...


You are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks!


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

I got my new extended yoke from the bike shop last week. It measures about 3mm longer which I calculate to move the rear wheel down about 7 mm. I didn't think to measure the BB height before and after I installed it, but I could tell a difference on the trail with better pedal to ground clearance.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

TNTall said:


> I got my new extended yoke from the bike shop last week. It measures about 3mm longer which I calculate to move the rear wheel down about 7 mm. I didn't think to measure the BB height before and after I installed it, but I could tell a difference on the trail with better pedal to ground clearance.


What where your ride impressions, negatives /positives?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I put mine on as well. I did notice less pedal strikes. There were spots I should have hit my pedals. I did not. The handling seemed a bit off. I may have to try more sag. So maybe I will get better suspension
compliance. As of now I dont really like the feel. It just looses that low fast feel. It shows what a fine line we are treading here.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I put mine on as well. I did notice less pedal strikes. There were spots I should have hit my pedals. I did not. The handling seemed a bit off. I may have to try more sag. So maybe I will get suspension better compliance. As of now I dont really like the feel. It just looses that low fast feel. It shows what a fine line we are treading here.


How was the installation? Was the High BB Link supplied with all necessary bearings etc.?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

No bearings needed. It is just the "yoke". Take off the shock and remove one the one bolt that holds the yoke to the shock. Then reinstall. It is a 15 min job. Super simple.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> No bearings needed. It is just the "yoke". Take off the shock and remove one the one bolt that holds the yoke to the shock. Then reinstall. It is a 15 min job. Super simple.


Thank you! I think that I had slightly wrong idea about the High BB Link


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I put mine on as well. I did notice less pedal strikes. There were spots I should have hit my pedals. I did not. The handling seemed a bit off. I may have to try more sag. So maybe I will get better suspension
> compliance. As of now I dont really like the feel. It just looses that low fast feel. It shows what a fine line we are treading here.


Interesting. My expectations are that while raising the BB by 6mm (I believe that's Spec's claim), it should marginally increase reach and lower the stack (by <5mm each) and steepen the HTA by a half degree. That's based on what the flip chips do on other bikes. I'll take some before and after measurements when mine comes in, hopefully this weekend.

That could account for the handling changes, but it also might just take some getting used to.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

I didn't notice adverse effects on handling from the extended yoke. I did notice already being faster and more confident because of pedaling over obstacles I paused at before.

My bike shop said to make sure and put blue Loctite on the bolt that holds it to the shock.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Hey all, been a while. Still loving my 6F. I also ordered the new yoke to hopefully prevent some of the pedal strikes on my '16 SW. Hopefully it comes in soon.

Here's a vid of me and some buds playing on some obstacles at a park in Northern Virginia (I'm the fool in the Mickey Mouse jersey):


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

levity said:


> Here are two pics I took of the rear wheel Mrs levity's 2016 6Fattie Comp Carbon (men's small) with a 29x2.6 NN on a 30mm inner width rim.
> 
> The tire measures ~2.52-2.55" wide and has ~6mm clearance all around.
> 
> Edit: I should add that these 29x2.6 NNs stand about 3/4" taller than the various 27.5x3.0 tires we've used (NN, RR, Purg, GC) so the bottom bracket is ~9mm higher.


Excellent thanks! Any riding observations on the difference between the tire setups?


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Drevil, Nice seeing other 6Fs shredding the trails around here, you are a great rider too. Seen you in the trails fairly often, including [email protected]!


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@Drevil (ricky d) - nice "Techy riding", that's quite a log to get over!



bad andy said:


> ... Any riding observations on the difference between the tire setups?


Haven't tried the 29x2.6 NNs on a 6Fattie. The wheels and tires shown above are from my Pivot 429 Trail, and I just slipped them onto Mrs levity's 6F to check fit.

However, I can give you some feedback from my experiences on the 429T as I've tried several wheel/tire combos on that bike. The results are what you'd predict: 27.5x2.8 is the most playful, 27.5x3.0 the most traction and most forgiving, and 29x2.6 more ground clearance and roll-over at the expense of some traction. The smaller wheels/tires drop the center of gravity for stable cornering, but they increase the likelihood of pedal strikes in rough terrain.

27.5x3 is _my_ overall fav for local SoCal riding since _I_ can ride most aggressively on the larger plus tires. I do like 29x2.6 for rocky conditions like the Tahoe area where I tend to get more pedal strikes. I'll be using the 27.5x3 tires in Moab next month and will get to see if I sit tall enough on the 429T (DW suspension) to do a little better on the ledges that I had pedal strikes with previously on my 6Fattie. If not, I'll try the 29x2.6 setup there next time.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Got my revelation exchanged on warranty for creaking CSU noice, and to my dealers surprise and mine, Sram sent me the new Pike 2018 rct3 instead of a exchange revelation.

It´s a completely new bike now, this fork is awesome!

Now i just need a new rear shock to match it

Bike is a Stumpjumper 6fattie comp 2017


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## forgiven_nick (Nov 7, 2006)

jonasnyman said:


> Got my revelation exchanged on warranty for creaking CSU noice, and to my dealers surprise and mine, Sram sent me the new Pike 2018 rct3 instead of a exchange revelation.
> 
> It´s a completely new bike now, this fork is awesome!
> 
> ...


Congrats! Nice warranty upgrade! What a pleasant surprise that must have been!


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## bad andy (Feb 21, 2006)

levity said:


> @Drevil (ricky d) - nice "Techy riding", that's quite a log to get over!
> 
> Haven't tried the 29x2.6 NNs on a 6Fattie. The wheels and tires shown above are from my Pivot 429 Trail, and I just slipped them onto Mrs levity's 6F to check fit.
> 
> ...


Great! Thanks for the info.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

TNTall said:


> I didn't notice adverse effects on handling from the extended yoke. I did notice already being faster and more confident because of pedaling over obstacles I paused at before.
> 
> My bike shop said to make sure and put blue Loctite on the bolt that holds it to the shock.


Thanks for the update, my LBS has mine on order but it hasn't come in yet.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The longer yoke does effect steering. Makes it a little quicker. It seems the front wheel has more bite. I have adjusted to it after a few rides. It was weird at first. In many ways the stock linkage handles better. The link makes the Stumpy feel a bit more xc like. It is better on tight twisty trails. No pedal strike issues!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> The longer yoke does effect steering. Makes it a little quicker. It seems the front wheel has more bite. I have adjusted to it after a few rides. It was weird at first. In many ways the stock linkage handles better. The link makes the Stumpy feel a bit more xc like. It is better on tight twisty trails. No pedal strike issues!


I think raising the bottom bracket by 7-8mm increases the HTA by 1 degree. You are probably feeling this change as well as the higher bottom bracket.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

JillRide45 said:


> I think raising the bottom bracket by 7-8mm increases the HTA by 1 degree. You are probably feeling this change as well as the higher bottom bracket.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So now you have to get a longer fork to slack the head angle back! 

Has anyone used the MRP Ribbon yet, on or off their 6Fattie? What are your impressions? I was at a friend's shop (who knows shocks better than anyone I know), and this is his favorite fork now.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> The link makes the Stumpy feel a bit more xc like. !


This has been the big debate with the lower bottom bracket this whole time: peeps wanting XC handling on an AM bike. Glad to see Specialized conceded and made a way to raise the BB, but I am waiting for the flip chip mod (like on the new Enduro) that will slacken the HA and lower the BB. That with some 2.8's would be a cornering machine!


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Thustlewhumber said:


> This has been the big debate with the lower bottom bracket this whole time: peeps wanting XC handling on an AM bike. Glad to see Specialized conceded and made a way to raise the BB, but I am waiting for the flip chip mod (like on the new Enduro) that will slacken the HA and lower the BB. That with some 2.8's would be a cornering machine!


It's my understanding that the 2018 stumpy comes with the new yoke.

I'm wondering if the new yoke with a 27.5x2.8 would be a sweet spot, maybe this is the direction specialized is heading?

With that being said, I love my 3.0 tires, but would have never tried 2.8 on the stock yoke.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

This is going to be just about perfect in my book. I'm picking my bike up this evening with the new yoke. The 5mm gained is going to be welcome.

I've settled on 2.8 tire size and have been messing to eliminate pedal strikes all summer. First extended the fork to 160mm, did slack the front a bit but just had to bend my arms more on steeps and it helped with pedal strike. The most noticable change was when I switched to 170mm cranks, eliminated 50% of the strikes (just a guess) now raising the BB should take care of the rest and get the geometry back to when it was new.

Looking forward to this weekend!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

gdb85 said:


> This is going to be just about perfect in my book. I'm picking my bike up this evening with the new yoke. The 5mm gained is going to be welcome.
> 
> I've settled on 2.8 tire size and have been messing to eliminate pedal strikes all summer. First extended the fork to 160mm, did slack the front a bit but just had to bend my arms more on steeps and it helped with pedal strike. The most noticable change was when I switched to 170mm cranks, eliminated 50% of the strikes (just a guess) now raising the BB should take care of the rest and get the geometry back to when it was new.
> 
> Looking forward to this weekend!


Which fork did you extend to 160? I know that a few have extended their 2016 S-Works 6Fattie (Fox 34 Plus Factory @150mm) to 160mm, but can't remember who. Levity? Anyone else? I'm trying to figure out what parts and labor are involved. I love the way my bike handles now - minus the pedal strikes - and I don't want it to change after putting on the new yoke. I'm assuming bumping up the travel will rebalance it.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Drevil, I dont think you will hate it with the new link. It is very slightly different. Most people will not notice. I notice more front wheel traction. Better handling in the twisties. No real negatives. When I made my first post it was my first time riding it. As time goes on it feels fine. The more you raise it, the weirder things will get. Personally I think 29x2.6 wheels and tires will be amazing....


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Drevil said:


> Which fork did you extend to 160? I know that a few have extended their 2016 S-Works 6Fattie (Fox 34 Plus Factory @150mm) to 160mm, but can't remember who. Levity? Anyone else? I'm trying to figure out what parts and labor are involved. I love the way my bike handles now - minus the pedal strikes - and I don't want it to change after putting on the new yoke. I'm assuming bumping up the travel will rebalance it.


The things I did to my bike took all of one ride to get use to the changes. I'm spinning more with the shorter cranks, the front end wandered a tad with going 160 but like I stated just bent my arms more and leaned forward. With the new yoke it should make it feel like the original set up with out 90% of the pedal strikes.

The fork was the Fox 34 Performance Elite. It needed a 45.00 air cartridge assembly easily changed out.

Also added the EVOL can to the rear shock which keeps it riding higher in the stroke.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

I did the fork travel change, Jenson has the part or you can call fox direct and order. Fox Shox 34 Air Shaft Assembly > F > Fox Racing Shox | Jenson USA

Here is my post about it with part numbers and instructions as you just swap them out, takes all of 10 minutes.

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-11.html#post12625550


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

boostenmkiv said:


> With that being said, I love my 3.0 tires, but would have never tried 2.8 on the stock yoke.


I had a friend who switched out the 3.0's with 2.8 Rekons, and he said it basically felt like a normal bike again. He likes to keep his bike airborne more than on the ground, so ymmv.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Murchman said:


> I did the fork travel change, Jenson has the part or you can call fox direct and order. Fox Shox 34 Air Shaft Assembly > F > Fox Racing Shox | Jenson USA
> 
> Here is my post about it with part numbers and instructions as you just swap them out, takes all of 10 minutes.
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/27-5-stumpjumper-6fattie-969685-11.html#post12625550


Did upping the travel on the Fox 34 from 150 to 160 increase the axle to crown height?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

mugstud said:


> Did upping the travel on the Fox 34 from 150 to 160 increase the axle to crown height?


Yes, 160mm-150mm= + 10mm unsagged and about 8mm sagged.

You can use this handing program to calculate all the geometry changes
geometryCalc

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> I think raising the bottom bracket by 7-8mm increases the HTA by 1 degree. You are probably feeling this change as well as the higher bottom bracket.


Just put mine on, took a spin around the block and took some measurements. I won't pretend that I can measure HTA, but the BB only went up 5-6mm, while the WB got 4-5 mm longer, and the reach got about 5mm longer (all +/- 2mm, I'd guess). The upshot is that the changes the HTA by closer to a half degree than 1 degree, as best I can figure. It doesn't feel like it handles much different on the road, although it is noticeable in my bike position. I'm looking forward to riding it tomorrow. I'll get a good mix of hilly XC, silly steep, technical climbs, and scary downhills, which will be a nice test.

I may try to put a 29x2.8 in the front to get back the HTA and gain some additional height and rollover, but that depends on how I like it setup as is.


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## mugstud (Jun 6, 2016)

Thanks JillRide45 . Sounds like it's a winner.


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## mkoss32 (Sep 30, 2016)

phride said:


> Just put mine on, took a spin around the block and took some measurements. I won't pretend that I can measure HTA, but the BB only went up 5-6mm, while the WB got 4-5 mm longer, and the reach got about 5mm longer (all +/- 2mm, I'd guess). The upshot is that the changes the HTA by closer to a half degree than 1 degree, as best I can figure. It doesn't feel like it handles much different on the road, although it is noticeable in my bike position. I'm looking forward to riding it tomorrow. I'll get a good mix of hilly XC, silly steep, technical climbs, and scary downhills, which will be a nice test.
> 
> I may try to put a 29x2.8 in the front to get back the HTA and gain some additional height and rollover, but that depends on how I like it setup as is.


Any pictures of the new link by chance?


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

mkoss32 said:


> Any pictures of the new link by chance?


Looks exactly like the original shock yoke just 3mm longer. Would be hard to tell any difference from a photo.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mkoss32 (Sep 30, 2016)

JillRide45 said:


> Looks exactly like the original shock yoke just 3mm longer. Would be hard to tell any difference from a photo.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Ah, gotcha. I appreciate it.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I got out for a long, demanding ride with the new yoke on the 6Fattie. These were not trails that I ride all the time, so I can't say where exactly I've escaped without pedal strikes. I definitely struck bottom on some small rocks lurking in the shrubbery of a couple overgrown trails, but not so hard that I went down. The bike handled quite well. I pushed corners hard. I worked my way through rock gardens, and I climbed an ugly technical trail better than I have before, despite it being the end of a long ride. How much to put that to a slightly altered geometry and how much to having a good day, I can't say, but certainly didn't hold me back. I didn't tackle the sketchiest downhill, as I was hypoxic from chasing a fast group on lightweight bikes all day and then hitting every technical feature on the climb, while they walked their bikes as needed. Besides, the audience/medivac crew was already gone, as I needed to lie down at the top of the hill before descending just to see straight. All-in-all, I'd say that it's a worthwhile mod, but I'll still get some 170mm cranks eventually.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> Looks exactly like the original shock yoke just 3mm longer. Would be hard to tell any difference from a photo.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Here are the Yokes available for the Stumpjumper. In picture,

Left - Bike Yoke from Germany, same length as original yoke when using a 190 x 50 shock

Middle - Original yoke from Specialized

Right - NEW, Extended Yoke from Specialized. 3mm longer

Hope this helps, Yoke Lady


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

Ha Ha! I just did an epic ride yesterday also, in W.Pa.thru some serious chunky terrain, 80% single track some of very fresh new trail. I was very happy with the bike. The new Yoke which was the last piece of my puzzle made the bike (as I expected)feel quite normal.

I increased travel on my fork first then added 170mm cranks then the yoke. The 6Fattie felt good just like it did early on just with way less pedal strikes. I'm very happy with the end result. Sorta wished the yoke came out sooner before I laid out some coin for the shorter cranks but what the heck that extra 5mm made a difference in itself.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

JillRide45 said:


> Here are the Yokes available for the Stumpjumper. In picture,
> 
> Left - Bike Yoke from Germany, same length as original yoke when using a 190 x 50 shock
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pic, Jill. I just replaced mine and took a pic of them side by side. Gonna try it tonight and see how horribly awry the handling will be with the new 3mm longer yoke 


Stumpjumper Replacement Yoke by ricky d, on Flickr

I also had a good ride over the weekend in the Maryland rocks


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Interested to get your feedback as i have not really paid much attention to pedal strikes anymore. Was on a group ride Sunday with guys that just picked up new High Towers and Trek Fuel EX's and they were complaining about pedal strikes, it's seems the low BB is the norm now


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*+3mm shock yoke... first impressions*

Installed the longer shock yoke last night on my Stumpy 6F with the OEM 150mm fork and Fox DPS shock. Crude measurements in the garage showed the bottom bracket to be about 5mm higher and the fork and seat tube angles steepened by about 0.5°-1° to 68° and 74°, respectively.

Just returned from my first ride, and my initial impression is that the longer yoke provides noticeable improvements in how the bike handles. I always felt that the bike tended to just plow through and over things, and now that I'm sitting a bit higher and more centered (and not sagging in the back) the Stumpy seems more responsive and playful in agreement with phride's comments above Cornering, sweeping or quick and tight, was more controlled. Climbing was improved with the forward weight shift, and tight uphill switchbacks seemed easier to negotiate. I didn't notice anything negative resulting from the steeper head angle on downhill sections. Still had a couple of light pedal strikes, but I didn't expect the 5mm rise to make a big difference there. The main benefit from my perspective is the improved handling.

Seems good so far. Have to see if impressions change with more ride time.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

This is cool to see these yokes coming through. Anyone have a Part #? I've been off the Stumpy for a couple weeks. Low back is giving me grief. I still want to do this mod, though.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Go back through the thread a page or two. The part number is there somewhere.


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

It has been interesting reading Every Post in this thread. I bought a 2015 Carbon Expert used in September 2016. The amount of pedal strike comments is so high, I'm going to be extremely wary of it on my upcoming rides! Maybe I don't ride the kinds of trails where I'm hitting the pedals, it has been a rare occurrence for me.

Something I have not seen posted is any talk about the new sram GX 12sp 10-50 cassette. I've ordered it, the derailleur and the shifter. I had a 2004 Jamis 26" 3 chainring HT XC bike previous to the fattie and I wanted some higher top end speed. From bikecalc it looks like I can use a 34 CR and have very similar low gearing. The EVOL can upgrade sounds interesting, but I am light 140 lb and don't go off big stuff or something, the shock rarely bottoms. Same with the forks. Also I didn't like the rolling resistance and got Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.8 lites. The tire were ~ 1/2 lb to 3/4 lb lighter per tire. Yes the grip is not as good but I ride a bit carefully after shattering my femur on my roadbike a few yrs back.


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

2wheelzeal said:


> It has been interesting reading Every Post in this thread. I bought a 2015 Carbon Expert used in September 2016. The amount of pedal strike comments is so high, I'm going to be extremely wary of it on my upcoming rides! Maybe I don't ride the kinds of trails where I'm hitting the pedals, it has been a rare occurrence for me.
> 
> Something I have not seen posted is any talk about the new sram GX 12sp 10-50 cassette. I've ordered it, the derailleur and the shifter. I had a 2004 Jamis 26" 3 chainring HT XC bike previous to the fattie and I wanted some higher top end speed. From bikecalc it looks like I can use a 34 CR and have very similar low gearing. The EVOL can upgrade sounds interesting, but I am light 140 lb and don't go off big stuff or something, the shock rarely bottoms. Same with the forks. Also I didn't like the rolling resistance and got Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.8 lites. The tire were ~ 1/2 lb to 3/4 lb lighter per tire. Yes the grip is not as good but I ride a bit carefully after shattering my femur on my roadbike a few yrs back.


Isn't 2015 the older geometry before it went lower longer slacker?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

It's from before there was a 6 Fattie. He probably bought a ~1-year-old 2016.


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

The frame is marked "Manufacture Date: 7/12/15


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

@2wheelzeal - It's a nice looking early production 2016 Expert model.

Be aware that the 2.8 RRs are about 1/2" shorter than standard 3.0 tires so they'll lower an already low bottom bracket about 1/4" or ~6mm. Rotating mass will be less and handling will be more agile with smaller tires and less trail, but pedal strikes will be more of an issue.

Re Eagle gearing: 34/10 seems a high top gear - you must be flying! Bear in mind that the 27.5+ tires have a much larger circumference than your 26" Jamis. Double check your gear calc's - there may be times you'd appreciate a lower 12th gear.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The 34/50 gear should be fine. It's almost the same the stock 28/42 and is plenty low. A couple people in this thread have put 26t rings on, but I'd only consider that for really long, really steep climbing necessary in specific pockets of certain mountain ranges (and I'm much more a spinner than a masher). 

As levity said, the 2.8s will drop your BB noticeably, and that may be enough to make you suffer pedal strikes like the rest of us.


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

I've been ok with the 28x42 when climbing, the 34x50 is only 2% taller gearing. If I don't like it I'll try the 32. I've ridden the 2.8's since last November, put several hundred miles on them now.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I put on the new yoke. I rode a few times. I did not crash. I did not hate it. Honestly, I would've been hard pressed to tell the difference. I'm pretty sure I hit less rocks, but I did hit a log


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

So what is the hot ticket tire? Sounds like NN/Rocket Ron?
Trying to make this beast a bit faster.


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

Yes, that would be a fast combo. I changed from the stock Ground Control / Purgatory after reading info on this site: Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests

You can expect to lose traction in corners, etc anytime you change from grippier rubber to faster rolling  Everything is a compromise.

Do your best to get a tire that's a match for the type of terrain you ride most often.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The NN looks grippier? These tires are a bit beastly.
I thought about 2 NN. I actually thought about Minion Dhf/Dhr. More traction and still lighter. These stock tires seem to be a lot of work in the tight stuff.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Wow. Those results are not what you think! My assumptions based on tread design alone are just way off!


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> So what is the hot ticket tire? Sounds like NN/Rocket Ron?
> Trying to make this beast a bit faster.


Since you brought up the subject of tires, I was at my LBS this weekend, and they just finished building a 2018 6Fattie for a customer. On the rear was a 27.5 x 3.0 Slaughter, which the owner hasn't seen yet and didn't even notice until I pointed it out  I've never used that tire in any size, but it looks interesting to me with its lower middle blocks. It's not listed on the site yet in the 3.0 size yet, but I can attest it's out in the wild:
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/equipment/components/slaughter-grid-2bliss-ready/117871


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

My son uses that tire on his 29'r. 29x2.35. He really likes it. Not traction on steep techy dirt climbs. He spins out even with good weight transfer. Could be interesting in 3.0!


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Drevil said:


> Since you brought up the subject of tires, I was at my LBS this weekend, and they just finished building a 2018 6Fattie for a customer. On the rear was a 27.5 x 3.0 Slaughter, which the owner hasn't seen yet and didn't even notice until I pointed it out  I've never used that tire in any size, but it looks interesting to me with its lower middle blocks. It's not listed on the site yet in the 3.0 size yet, but I can attest it's out in the wild:
> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/equipment/components/slaughter-grid-2bliss-ready/117871


Yup, my friend picked up his 2018 6fattie past Wednesday and I noticed that tire too. Definitely looks like it would roll fast


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

What is on the front? This is the stock tire now?


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> What is on the front? This is the stock tire now?


Front was a purgatory


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Interesting. Still both kinda porky. The purg grid still seems to pedal better than the ground control non grid. I am thinking nobby nics or maybe a NN with a rocket ron in the rear. Undecided. So many choices.


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Bought my '17 stumpy 6 a year ago. Hated it and hardly rode it. Did the rear yoke mod on the Stumpy.....love it. This is how the bike should handle. Hardly any pedal strikes and none of those even note worthy. Climbs better but not great. Handles better. Doesn't feel like your riding a chopper. Corners better. My ride was on a rocky trail that I wouldn't ride the Stumpy on any more. Rode it like I was on my Stache. Couple times I made the "face" knowing I was about to smash a pedal and nothing. Stache may collect dust now. 


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

How much is the new yoke?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

$65


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Thanks!

A call to the bike shop will be made.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Nevermind


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

That is the non boost crank. You will be limited on chainring size. Your chain ring will be very close to the chainstay.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> That is the non boost crank. You will be limited on chainring size. Your chain ring will be very close to the chainstay.


Thanks for seeing it before I removed it! LOL!

Since that you did see it...can you tell if its the long or short spindle? I do have a GXP ring on the stock crank right now. I removed it as I forgot that there is a difference in spindle length and didn't want someone to pick it up if the spindle length is indeed wrong.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

It will work. The chain line was off. I ended up getting a boost crank.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Whew. Thanks!!


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

2old said:


> Bought my '17 stumpy 6 a year ago. Hated it and hardly rode it. Did the rear yoke mod on the Stumpy.....love it. This is how the bike should handle. Hardly any pedal strikes and none of those even note worthy. Climbs better but not great. Handles better. Doesn't feel like your riding a chopper. Corners better. My ride was on a rocky trail that I wouldn't ride the Stumpy on any more. Rode it like I was on my Stache. Couple times I made the "face" knowing I was about to smash a pedal and nothing. Stache may collect dust now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Just a quick note about the "rides like a chopper". I had a Rhyme (womens stumpy) for 1 year with the lighter women's tune shock. Rode like a mac truck/chopper, sort of the feeling of being in the back seat. This did help on downhills but did not help out in all around pedaling. Sold the Rhyme for a DW bike. Well I decided I was stupid to sell the Rhyme and picked up a used Stumpy 6fattie (all I could find at the time in a small). The Stumpy has a firmer tune on the shock than the Rhyme I had orginally.

The Rhyme and Stumpy ride completely different! I am 115 lbs ready to ride and the stumpy felt almost cross country like. The Stumpy rode higher in the travel with way fewer pedal strikes. I found the Stumpy to be a very efficient pedaller. I get almost full travel on the Stumpy, it just does not blow through the midway travel like the lighter tune shock on my Rhyme. In talking with Fox, I found out the Stumpy has a Light tune on the suspension. The high leverage suspension with a light tune shock just does not add up for most guys. Based on my experience, I am really thinking that for guys 150+ the shock tune on the Stumpy needs to be increased, both LSC and HSC. The Evol can helps out with this as it increases the air spring, but this may make it hard for some to get full travel with the increased air spring pressure.

Just wanted to point out that a Fox shock or RockShox shock is not a one size fits all, and even though the outsides look the same the internals are set to manufacture specifications. Just because Specialized wants a soft shock does not mean you have to stick with that. Fox can retune your shock for $40 shim stack and $40 labor.

For comparison, I had a Pivot 429 trail. DW suspension that everyone says pedals great. Guess what, that bike has a medium tune Fox shock and a lower leverage ratio than the Stumpy, of course it is going to pedal better.

Just my riding impression. Hope this can help someone. 
Have fun!


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

You nailed it. It the offroad motorcycle world no one really rides a bike with stock valving. Forks and shock usually go in right after they break in. You can always tell when it loosens up and your settings go out the window. It seems nobody considers this as instead of changing springs and getting a revalve, we just pump up the spring and rip it. With that said proper sag is critical. If it feels like a chopper something is wrong. This is not a slack bike by any means.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

I just got my new yoke. For you guys that have replaced yours - how did you get the bolt out that attaches the yoke to the shock? The way it's designed it doesn't appear that it can be removed. Thanks.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

brianw7 said:


> I just got my new yoke. For you guys that have replaced yours - how did you get the bolt out that attaches the yoke to the shock? The way it's designed it doesn't appear that it can be removed. Thanks.


It can be removed. It just needs to be wiggled around a lot. It goes back through the new yoke much more readily. Just be sure to apply blue locktite and snug it back up good. It's a bolt that has a tendency to work its way loose.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

I figured it out. Didn't see the tiny Allen bolt holding the spacer in on the old yoke. Anyone else doing this mode note: You will need a 1.5mm Allen wrench as well as a 5mm and 6mm.

Anyone know the torque specs on the pivot bolts off the top of their head?


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## srhamlin (Sep 3, 2017)

I just tried swapping on the new yoke, but now see the new one does not use the slide in washer/spacer the old yoke does, and the bolt is now too long. Did you guys get a new bolt with your yoke, or did you go purchase a washer and use the old bolt?

Old yoke on left:


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I just used the old bolt. It seems to have worked. 

I do like the geometry tweak. The extra height and reach are both improvements, and it rides the tech chunk better. It does oversteer a but sometimes, but I might just need to get used to that. I suspect that it will ride even better with 29er tires now to get back some of the trail lost to the steeper HTA, so that's probably my next upgrade, as having both options is good anyways.


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## srhamlin (Sep 3, 2017)

Strange, mine is way too long to use with the new yoke, bottoms out...


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

phride said:


> I just used the old bolt. It seems to have worked.
> 
> I do like the geometry tweak. The extra height and reach are both improvements, and it rides the tech chunk better. It does oversteer a but sometimes, but I might just need to get used to that. I suspect that it will ride even better with 29er tires now to get back some of the trail lost to the steeper HTA, so that's probably my next upgrade, as having both options is good anyways.


I just used the old bolt as well.....no issues.


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## srhamlin (Sep 3, 2017)

Hrrrrrmm... fox or rockshox for you guys? This is on my 2017 w/ rockshox suspension. I also have a 2016 with the Fox stuff, guess I'll go check that one.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Fox

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

srhamlin said:


> Hrrrrrmm... fox or rockshox for you guys? This is on my 2017 w/ rockshox suspension. I also have a 2016 with the Fox stuff, guess I'll go check that one.


2016 with Fox.


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## srhamlin (Sep 3, 2017)

Yup, just confirmed on the other bike. Bolts up fine with stock bolt on the 2016 with Fox. 
So it appears the 2017 with rockshox either needs a shorter bolt, or proper sized washer (about 1.5 - 2mm thickness).


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I can't be the only one who wants to lower the bottom bracket even more, can I? If I wanted a higher bb and steeper ha, I would've bought a Niner, lol.


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## jhair (Apr 2, 2007)

Does anyone know if the longer yoke will work with the Ohlins rear shock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I can't be the only one who wants to lower the bottom bracket even more, can I? If I wanted a higher bb and steeper ha, I would've bought a Niner, lol.


It all depends on where you ride. Obviously you dont have to pedal much. The Hta change is minimal. I did not want that. Reality is that it turns better at low speed and the difference is negligible at high speed. It is no fun bashing your cranks continually on certain trails.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I picked up a pair of Nobby Nics. Those tires are so much better than stock. Not squirmy. Better grip. Roll faster and 5oz lighter per tire! I really like them so far.


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## jonasnyman (Jan 17, 2017)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I picked up a pair of Nobby Nics. Those tires are so much better than stock. Not squirmy. Better grip. Roll faster and 5oz lighter per tire! I really like them so far.


Same here, mounted today, going to test tomorrow


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I like them so far. Less bouncy. More grip. Faster rolling. Cornering confidence is through the roof. They do not seem to squirm on landing like the stock tires.


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## screamingbunny (Mar 24, 2004)

jhair said:


> Does anyone know if the longer yoke will work with the Ohlins rear shock?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'll let you know in a couple of days, ordered mine last week


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

Riders that have converted to the FOX EVOL shock sleeve or the Vorsprung Corset - 

when you put the shock in "Climb" or "lockout" mode, does the suspension bob more than with the original setup or no? 

A graph that Vorsprung has shows the Fox spring rate starts at 2000+ lbs/inch and the Corset starts at 560. 

I'm just guessing that the point of the Fox setup is to keep the rear from bobbing while locked out on climbs.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I can't make a comparison of before and after lockout performance. I was satisfied with the lockout on both, but I don't use it enough to discriminate between the two. I did note that there was a much bigger difference between open and medium modes between the EVOL and stock shocks, but that's largely because the EVOL shock in the open setting was much more sensitive than the stock shock in the open setting at pressures needed to prevent bottom-out. Thus, I use the medium setting much more on the EVOL shock than the stock shock. I found the lockout on either to be far better than anything older that I'd ridden and I'm perfectly happy with it, but I'm not much of a masher when doing long climbs where I might use the lockout, so YMMV.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

2wheelzeal said:


> Riders that have converted to the FOX EVOL shock sleeve or the Vorsprung Corset -
> 
> when you put the shock in "Climb" or "lockout" mode, does the suspension bob more than with the original setup or no?
> 
> ...


The FOX Evol can and the Corset cans are very different. The Coreset can adds negative air but also increases the positive chamber, sort of like a Rockshox Debonair. The FOX Evol can only adds a negative air chamber with no increase in positive air. The Fox Evol can allows the rider to run an increased air spring and still achieve the same sag, due to the negative chamber helping to pull down the shock. The negative chamber will also help the higher air spring pull down over small bumps. The FOX Evol can really has nothing to do with lockout, may even make it a little worse because the negative air helps overcome stitiction. But in general once you get out of the sag area you are running an increased air spring which provides more support.


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## mczen (Mar 9, 2008)

So thinking of selling my Orange 2016 Stumpy frame with the longer link, EVOL can, command post and stock wheels. Frame is in good shape, link has not seen dirt yet, EVOL upgrade is 6 months old, dropper was rebuilt about a year ago, stock wheels are in fair shape, one has a small ding. Just trying to get a feel for a fair price.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> It all depends on where you ride. Obviously you dont have to pedal much. The Hta change is minimal. I did not want that. Reality is that it turns better at low speed and the difference is negligible at high speed. It is no fun bashing your cranks continually on certain trails.


It did take getting some used to when I first started riding mine. I started to get a feel for the timing of when/where rocks might be so that I could get a pedal stroke in without hitting a crank on them. From there, it was all about ratcheting and pushing a harder gear to minimize the amount of "spinning". Then once I found out that obstacles really didn't matter for plus tires, the game changed completely.

2 years later, and it is still as much fun as when I first demoed it.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

It is the ones you dont see that get you.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

Just got my new yoke installed. For those that asked, yes you need a 1.5mm hex to remove the set screw and the washer is not used on the new yoke. For the 2016 SJ6F you can reuse the same bolt, but it looks like 2017's have a longer bolt and will need a washer. I only did a test ride in the neighborhood so far but I really do feel like I'm sitting higher on the bike than I was. Old link on the left, new on the right.

If anyone knows the torque setting for the shock mounting bolts, that would be helpful to post.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Epic_Dude said:


> Just got my new yoke installed. For those that asked, yes you need a 1.5mm hex to remove the set screw and the washer is not used on the new yoke. For the 2016 SJ6F you can reuse the same bolt, but it looks like 2017's have a longer bolt and will need a washer. I only did a test ride in the neighborhood so far but I really do feel like I'm sitting higher on the bike than I was. Old link on the left, new on the right.
> 
> If anyone knows the torque setting for the shock mounting bolts, that would be helpful to post.


Funny you say that about the 2017 bolt needing a washer. The first time I installed it it didn't tighten down like the bolt bottomed out. I thought the parts weren't fitting together right. I took it apart and reassembled it and it got tight for some reason.


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

When I put my new yoke on I had the bolt issue as well. After I took it off again I had to clean some thread locker out of the bottom of the hole and then it tightened down .


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## srhamlin (Sep 3, 2017)

Epic_Dude said:


> Just got my new yoke installed. For those that asked, yes you need a 1.5mm hex to remove the set screw and the washer is not used on the new yoke. For the 2016 SJ6F you can reuse the same bolt, but it looks like 2017's have a longer bolt and will need a washer. I only did a test ride in the neighborhood so far but I really do feel like I'm sitting higher on the bike than I was. Old link on the left, new on the right.
> 
> If anyone knows the torque setting for the shock mounting bolts, that would be helpful to post.


Just to add on the 2017, only washer I could find that would fit was an M8 lock washer, needs to have a small enough OD to fit in the groove in the yoke. There was no way the stock bolt would work on its own, measured with calipers, washer was required. Also, my 2017 has no set screw at all for the washer in the stock link.

As for Torque settings:
Upper shock eye bolt - 12.8 Nm (shock to frame bolt, carbon & alloy frames)
Lower shock eye bolt - 19.8 Nm (yoke to shock bolt)
S.link to Yoke Bolts - 16.7 Nm


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## 10CentTraveler (Aug 25, 2017)

Pick mine up today, a 2016 closeout.. CONVERTED! This thing is ridiculously forgiving and fun to ride.


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## screamingbunny (Mar 24, 2004)

jhair said:


> Does anyone know if the longer yoke will work with the Ohlins rear shock?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup works like a champ, 10 min work poof be gone on pedal strikes DO IT!


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## skywalkertrancex (Apr 9, 2012)

Good! it fits the Ohlins, I'm going to try it...thanks screamingbunny


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## jhair (Apr 2, 2007)

screamingbunny said:


> Yup works like a champ, 10 min work poof be gone on pedal strikes DO IT!
> View attachment 1157466
> 
> View attachment 1157469
> ...


Awesome! Thanks for the info!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtv2513 (Sep 17, 2017)

*Does Specialized include the EMT tool?*

It's not clear in reading specs, does the EMT tool come with Specialized Stumpy's? And does it stay put under rough riding conditions?


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

My Expert came with the tool and it stays in place no matter what you ride and speaking for myself it stays put even in crashes, lol.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

mtv2513 said:


> It's not clear in reading specs, does the EMT tool come with Specialized Stumpy's? And does it stay put under rough riding conditions?


In 2016, it was not included with all models, only the Carbon Expert and S-Works, that may have changed in 2017-2018 models.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

mtv2513 said:


> It's not clear in reading specs, does the EMT tool come with Specialized Stumpy's? And does it stay put under rough riding conditions?


Tool has never fallen out and I doubt ever will due to the way it's secured in there and the location.


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## kahilati (May 12, 2016)

I installed the new yoke on my 2016 Stumpjumper 6fattie. I consider it as a successful modification: I had significantly less of pedal/crank strikes. Also I didn´t notice any negative effect because of slightly steeper HTA.


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## skywalkertrancex (Apr 9, 2012)

mtv2513 said:


> It's not clear in reading specs, does the EMT tool come with Specialized Stumpy's? And does it stay put under rough riding conditions?


My pro came with it. Stays put, no rattling or noise.


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

What's everyone's thoughts on the new 2018 6fattie? Looks like they come stock with i38mm rims and 170mm crank arms. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/mountain/sworks-stumpjumper-6fattie/133913


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Interesting. I tried 170 on my last SJ Carbon Evo. Was great for eliminating strikes but I soon realized I suffered on the technical chunky stuff from lack of leverage and tested the theory by going back and forth from 170 to 175. I suppose I could just live with it if I had to.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

You could also get an oval chain ring. It may be just the herd effect, but the best technical riders I know have been combining those two things to recover the lost torque at the sticking point in the pedal stroke without under-gearing their bikes. It's on the eventual upgrade list for me.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

phride said:


> You could also get an oval chain ring. It may be just the herd effect, but the best technical riders I know have been combining those two things to recover the lost torque at the sticking point in the pedal stroke without under-gearing their bikes. It's on the eventual upgrade list for me.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Good point. I'm running oval on my Karate Monkey SS and my StumpJumper and have been for for some time but not till after I tried that crank arm experiment.


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

Drevil said:


> I put on the new yoke. I rode a few times. I did not crash. I did not hate it. Honestly, I would've been hard pressed to tell the difference. I'm pretty sure I hit less rocks, but I did hit a log


What is the point of damaging your bikes?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

gpgalanis said:


> What is the point of damaging your bikes?


We're having fun challenging each other to get over a log.

Do you think that we're purposely trying to break our bikes? If so, why?


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## gpgalanis (Apr 7, 2015)

I don't know. This is why I am asking.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

gpgalanis said:


> I don't know. This is why I am asking.


We're not.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Drevil said:


> We're having fun challenging each other to get over a log.
> 
> Do you think that we're purposely trying to break our bikes? If so, why?


I tried this for years with a 1996 A1 HT Stumpjumper (I wanted an excuse to upgrade), and it turned out to be tougher than me. Drops to flat, scree-filled downhills, and the occasional plunge or cartwheel off a rock face I couldn't quite climb took more out of my structural integrity than the bike's. I'm sure things would go much worse for the riders trying to break one of these burly breasts.

Oh, and that looks like just plain fun in my book.


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

Learning new bike-handling skills, not trying to break the bike - hey I wish I could do that! There's plenty of things my 6Fattie can do that I have not tried so far...


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

mtv2513 said:


> It's not clear in reading specs, does the EMT tool come with Specialized Stumpy's? And does it stay put under rough riding conditions?


With 13mo of use and 1600 miles I've never had it fall out. It is however clearly looser than the day I installed it.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

boostenmkiv said:


> With 13mo of use and 1600 miles I've never had it fall out. It is however clearly looser than the day I installed it.


... I assume the original question is about the multi tool that is installed above the rear shock on the Carbon Stumpjumers right? Or are we talking about the one that installs to the water cage??? (I'm answering assuming we are talking about the former.)

I've had my Stumpy for about a year and a half and use the tool probably once a month on average. (my buddies are always asking to use it because it's so handy) I've not noticed it getting any looser in the mount and it certainly is not going to fall out. It's really quite secure.


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## Heather Rocklear (Dec 14, 2016)

Love your Mods!! I have minions front and rear and it rides like amazing - but yeah that BB issue is huge when you go down to 2.8 on any tire some are worse than others - makes you have to get creative when climbing tech sections.

Chaning my pike air spring to 160mm - did you notice any sig change in climbing with 160 from the 150 or negligible?

Thanks
H



Patu said:


> I've had my S-Works FSR 6F for around 6 weeks now and loving it.. Couple of things I've done.
> 
> Shortened stem to a Raceface 50mm
> Replaced barrs for Renthal 40mm high rise
> ...


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## boostenmkiv (Jun 13, 2006)

Outlier73 said:


> ... I assume the original question is about the multi tool that is installed above the rear shock on the Carbon Stumpjumers right? Or are we talking about the one that installs to the water cage??? (I'm answering assuming we are talking about the former.)
> 
> I've had my Stumpy for about a year and a half and use the tool probably once a month on average. (my buddies are always asking to use it because it's so handy) I've not noticed it getting any looser in the mount and it certainly is not going to fall out. It's really quite secure.


Yup, the mount by the rear shock. I don't believe at this point that mine may fall out, but it's clearly easier to remove. It appears this location may have been removed for 2018, can anyone confirm?


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## screamingbunny (Mar 24, 2004)

Mount is not there on my 2017 Pro


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

screamingbunny said:


> Mount is not there on my 2017 Pro


It looks like your shock is an Ohlins and it has a part that is in the area where the tool would mount. I'm sure yours came with a multi-tool. Did they just mount it at the bottom of the cage? I saw the newest Enduro has the tool in the headset (



 at 3:30).


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

TEvans73 said:


> What's everyone's thoughts on the new 2018 6fattie? Looks like they come stock with i38mm rims and 170mm crank arms. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/men/bikes/mountain/sworks-stumpjumper-6fattie/133913


The lower end bikes still have the i29mm rims, but no word on the crank arms. I would think that since they are all specced with 30t chainrings (even on the low end bikes) they are probably using 170mm cranks across the board now. Still no option for Shimano brakes or Fox suspension on the high end. The new color shifting metallic blue/purple color is absolutely awesome. I love the coil shock version, wonder if it makes the suspension progressive on jumps. Too bad that the new dropper isn't on them yet, but they might be on the new version coming up in Feb.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

gpgalanis said:


> I don't know. This is why I am asking.


I think Drevil is running a bash guard. I am running the MRP Micro XCg on mine (Micro XCg - MRP).


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## screamingbunny (Mar 24, 2004)

yup well aware of where the tool is supposed to go and know my shock occupies that space. My tool comes mounted to the water bottle cage. My statement was that the mounting bracket, normally molded into the frame, was not even there. Quite the undertaking for one or two models


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

screamingbunny said:


> yup well aware of where the tool is supposed to go and know my shock occupies that space. My tool comes mounted to the water bottle cage. My statement was that the mounting bracket, normally molded into the frame, was not even there. Quite the undertaking for one or two models


The mounting bracket is not molded into the frame but rather is attached via a small screw. I have removed/replaced mine, a simple one minute job

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

My 2018 Alloy Comp came with a 2.8 slaughter. Maybe other builds have a 3.0 slaughter rear?

Has anyone sourced an RCT3 damper for the reba?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

JillRide45 said:


> The mounting bracket is not molded into the frame but rather is attached via a small screw. I have removed/replaced mine, a simple one minute job


You have so much info about the finer points of this bike, it's like you work there or something  Thanks!



Thustlewhumber said:


> I think Drevil is running a bash guard. I am running the MRP Micro XCg on mine (Micro XCg - MRP).


100% yup! I use the XcG V2, and that takes the brunt of any hits against solid objects... as can be seen/heard 3 seconds into this video


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

I apologise for asking and not searching myself. I'm sure it has been answered x times. 

Have a first gen 6 fattie, slipped and fell hard which reminded me I need to upgrade my still original tires. Same reminder as last year but did not follow through 

It's now muddy puddles en wet clay time. 

I ride for fun and to be out, grip trumps speed or light weight. I don't go tubeless, hardly have flats. I'm fine with swapping back to summer tires in 6 months. 

Don't want to go exotic / niche brands cause it's a hassle to get a hold off in Europe, Belgium. 

Based upon all of this, is the spec purgatory the right choice?front / back / both? Any maxxis / schwalbe better alternative? I want the same width, so that's 2.8 right? 27plus is not common here, so will probably have to ask the bike dealer to order anyhow. The above 3 brands are the easiest to get. 

Price don't want to go crazy but doesn't have to be the cheapest. Work keeps me busy and I make more working than surfing 3 hours looking for the best deal. 

Thanks for taking the time to read and maybe answer! Have a nice day anyhow! 
Best bike ever! Still happy to ride every time.


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

Oreos just checked and turns out the bike came with purgatory front and ground control back. Is there something better or do I have unrealistic expectations? Does the gripton make a difference? I have the older version without.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Hompie said:


> Oreos just checked and turns out the bike came with purgatory front and ground control back. Is there something better or do I have unrealistic expectations? Does the gripton make a difference? I have the older version without.


What about 2.8" or 3.0" Nobby Nic from a UK webstore? I had good luck with Merlin Cycles:
https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-nobby-nic-addix-speedgrip-folding-tyre-275-102144.html


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I am absolutely loving the Nobby Nic 3.0, pacestar rear, trailstar front. Get Apex sidewall if you can. Are you saying that buying from Germany is problematic? I just placed another order Sunday for 4 sets from Bike-discount.de. Huge money saver for me in the US.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

3.0 Nobby Nic Trailstar Snakeskin front and rear. The pacestar is too slick if you have much rock. It is like ice. If you want faster rolling go Rocket Ron. The Nics are faster roling than stock for sure. Not so squirmy. By all means go tubless. It is so easy and saves so much rotating mass. These wheels go tubless so easy too!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

A Trailstar on the rear in my terrain will last 140 miles. 143 tops. I know this because....

:lol:


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I have got over 200 on my rear already. Looks new. Funny how riding style and terrain vary tire wear.


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## RVbldr (Sep 10, 2015)

Just swapped tires again (sitting at about 1500 miles on a 2016) and have a 3" Purgatory on the rear, but went with a 3" High Roller II on the front for use in the Pacific Northwest. I run tubeless, and the HRII is probably not the fastest, but it seems pretty grippy in the turns, and the Purg has always been a grippy rear tire.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

There is a lot of loose over hard here in Michigan. That purg will put you on your face. It is unusually dry here this year though.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Bell All-Stars Video: John Tomac - Mtbr.com

On the front page is the interview with the legendary John Tomac. Look at the bike he is riding (S Works 6Fattie). I think its also a good reality check for those who think that Plus bikes are only for beginners.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Look at the bike he is riding (S Works 6Fattie). I think its also a good reality check for those who think that Plus bikes are only for beginners.


Nah,...those people are keeping the wheelsize debate alive!! I forget what that video was but the guy basically said to "pick your favorite wheel size, and then be a dick about it".

Oh ya, Tomac is a stud


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

That is really cool. I grew up in the same town as Tomac.
He was the gnarly BMX kid then. He is a few years older than me. He was always super cool to us younger kids. He talked me into jumping this kinda big jump. I should say, taught me confidence. Super positive guy. Kinda shy and quiet. I think some people confused this as snobby. They could not be more wrong imho.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> That is really cool. I grew up in the same town as Tomac.
> He was the gnarly BMX kid then. He is a few years older than me. He was always super cool to us younger kids. He talked me into jumping this kinda big jump. I should say, taught me confidence. Super positive guy. Kinda shy and quiet. I think some people confused this as snobby. They could not be more wrong imho.


 That's cool! I always had a high opinion of Tomac; but more for his style and skill. Nice to hear he was a cool dude back in the day


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I feel privileged to have some good stories from back in the day. Tagging along on mtb rides. Meeting Bob Roll when he was in town with JT. A winter snow ride with the locals. He was on his Team 7/11 bike with cx tires. Jumping and bunny hopping when we were all falling over on ice. I dont even understand that level of ballance.


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## BadgerOne (Jul 17, 2015)

I've got a chance to pick up a new 2017 Comp Alloy for $2700 locally. Seems like a solid deal but I'm still on the fence. I'm having a helluva time deciding between this and a Motobecane HAL Boost team (yeah yeah, yuck it up. The geo is nearly identical between the two - except it has 11mm longer stays - and the build is better). Yeah, I'm a cheap ass. But I'm not even certain at this point whether plus will be one of my things. My other steed is a Ti HT 29er which I love to death.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

BadgerOne said:


> I've got a chance to pick up a new 2017 Comp Alloy for $2700 locally. Seems like a solid deal but I'm still on the fence. I'm having a helluva time deciding between this and a Motobecane HAL Boost team (yeah yeah, yuck it up. The geo is nearly identical between the two - except it has 11mm longer stays - and the build is better). Yeah, I'm a cheap ass. But I'm not even certain at this point whether plus will be one of my things. My other steed is a Ti HT 29er which I love to death.


I have got the same, but 2016 and I'm very happy with it. I only chose the brakes (magura MT7) and the cassette (9-46 E13) because 10-42 is small for me.


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## BadgerOne (Jul 17, 2015)

I understand, as I've had reservations about the stock gearing as well. My other bike has Eagle, and there are some steeps around here that have me on the 50t at the end of a ride when I'm gassed (32t ring). Eagle can be temperamental but it spoils you badly when it's running right.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

BadgerOne said:


> I've got a chance to pick up a new 2017 Comp Alloy for $2700 locally. Seems like a solid deal but I'm still on the fence. I'm having a helluva time deciding between this and a Motobecane HAL Boost team (yeah yeah, yuck it up. The geo is nearly identical between the two - except it has 11mm longer stays - and the build is better). Yeah, I'm a cheap ass. But I'm not even certain at this point whether plus will be one of my things. My other steed is a Ti HT 29er which I love to death.


I don't know what a Motobecane HAL is but $2700 for a NEW 6fattie comp sounds like a decent price. Although you might be able to do better in a month or so when the 2018s are out. ...also check for used bikes as people are upgrading to 2018s.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

BadgerOne said:


> I understand, as I've had reservations about the stock gearing as well. My other bike has Eagle, and there are some steeps around here that have me on the 50t at the end of a ride when I'm gassed (32t ring). Eagle can be temperamental but it spoils you badly when it's running right.


A 28x42 with 27.5+ tires that measure about 28.25-inches across is not much different from a 32x50 on a 29er. In fact, it's lower gearing than a 32x49 29er would be if that were a thing. Of course, if you want higher-end gearing, too, that's another story, but if you just want to be able to spin-up some long, steep climbs when you're gassed, the 28x42 is spot-on in my book.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

BadgerOne said:


> I've got a chance to pick up a new 2017 Comp Alloy for $2700 locally. Seems like a solid deal but I'm still on the fence. I'm having a helluva time deciding between this and a Motobecane HAL Boost team (yeah yeah, yuck it up. The geo is nearly identical between the two - except it has 11mm longer stays - and the build is better). Yeah, I'm a cheap ass. But I'm not even certain at this point whether plus will be one of my things. My other steed is a Ti HT 29er which I love to death.


Shorter chainstays on the SJ are the game changer for that frame. Huge difference. The bike handles phenomenally with the newer geometry even in 29'r configuration.


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## BadgerOne (Jul 17, 2015)

Yeah, the CS length is the one item that has me skeptical. Half that difference in length can be noticeable. As far as gearing, my brain tells me I want the extended range; my experience tells me I never get to the few smallest cogs on the Eagle. Still up in the air!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Eagle Shmeagle. I have given up on SRAM shifter/derailleurs. They work but for the money they're asking for that? Not a chance it's worth it, IMO. I've built my last 2 bikes with XTR and it would take a hell of a deal on something really special to get me away from it. I'm running 11-46 on my Expert but went from the XT cassette to the Sunrace. I personally find the 42T cog the XT lacks pretty much covers my needs but I do welcome that 46 on frequent occasions. To each his own, though.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Bell All-Stars Video: John Tomac - Mtbr.com
> 
> On the front page is the interview with the legendary John Tomac. Look at the bike he is riding (S Works 6Fattie). I think its also a good reality check for those who think that Plus bikes are only for beginners.


Lee McKormack (Also a stud) has been riding a S-works Stumpy 5Fattie for a while. He's said things like, "The 6Fattie wheels make the Stumpy a crazy-versatile weapon. I've ridden mine at the bike park, on smooth trails, on rough trails and at DH resorts. Heck I even rode it on an Icelandic volcano. This bike is so versatile that I've PRed my local technical climbs, PRed my local technical descents and sold my downhill bike - the Stumpy was faster back to back on the trails I ride at Trestle Bike Park"

I love mine too!


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

Well, I'm sure I'm not the first. Brakes were a bit mushy even on my first ride on mine (2018 comp, guide R brakes) but I figured I'd give it a go. It had gotten to the point that the rear brake went to the bars and needed to be pumped to have pressure, on a brand new bike. It eventually went back to working, just mushy. 

Took it back to the shop, helped him bleed the rear 3 times, every time the same thing. Initial bite is about right, but it's still mushy, can be squeezed to the bars with one finger with not too much effort. Sram sent replacements for both front and rear as the front wasn't stellar either. Back to shop with brand new pre-bled from factory brakes, exactly the same. For giggles I grabbed some shimano brakes on other bikes, nice initial bite and solid, no going to the bars on those, even their cheap stuff.

Shop nut is talking to sram again, but I don't have much faith that this will be fixed without buying different brakes, for a brand new bike.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So I went and picked up the longer yokes for both of our bikes. Like others have posted it raised the BB about 5mm and changed the HA to 68. Took it for a ride and it felt higher up in the rear and the bike was a little sportier. No pedal strikes which was nice for a change. 

I think I am going to put my 160mm air spring back in the fork to get the HA back to 67 and even a little higher BB so I can run a 2.8 slaughter in the back or a bit more sag.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I currently have a 2016 Stumpjumper Comp29 hardtail and considering adding this 6Fattie Stumpy to the fleet. I have not ridden one yet, but have a few friends on different plus bikes that love them. Plus, my trusted wrench at my LBS sings the praises of his 6Fattie Stumpy. Just want more feedback..............

I have read through the thread, back in the early days of this bike's release and found some positive general impressions of this bike. I am considering a 2018 version of this bike and wondering if people are doing the occasional XC or Epic Ride style event on this bike. I don't have the specs memorize, but think its 140ml fork, 135ml rear suspension?

Would I regret getting this bike if I wanted to do those types of rides on it?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Remember it's still a Stumpjumper 29, so if you find the plus tires are not good for the event you can throw on a set of 29er wheels and it will be quick.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Murchman said:


> Remember it's still a Stumpjumper 29, so if you find the plus tires are not good for the event you can throw on a set of 29er wheels and it will be quick.


Great point. So focused on the 27.5+ side of it, did not really think about the extra wheel set! :thumbsup:

Looking forward to test riding one soon. This should be a no-brainer.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Murchman said:


> Remember it's still a Stumpjumper 29, so if you find the plus tires are not good for the event you can throw on a set of 29er wheels and it will be quick.


That was precisely my mentality when I built mine. It started it's first month of life as a 9'r and I figured I just had to try the PLUS so I accumulated the components and dropped them off at my wheel builders shop expecting a long turn-around based on his warning. A week later he called and said they were done. I figured if I didn't like it, I could sell the wheelset for well more than I had into it on pinkbike just because of my low costs for components and good guy deal on the build. Little did I know I'd still be rockin' these and my 9'rs are collecting dust. I still need to get a set of good 2.6's for the 9'rs. Was hoping I'd see Minions or be able to get Magic Mary's by now but nope.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Oh My Sack! said:


> That was precisely my mentality when I built mine. It started it's first month of life as a 9'r and I figured I just had to try the PLUS so I accumulated the components and dropped them off at my wheel builders shop expecting a long turn-around based on his warning. A week later he called and said they were done. I figured if I didn't like it, I could sell the wheelset for well more than I had into it on pinkbike just because of my low costs for components and good guy deal on the build. Little did I know I'd still be rockin' these and my 9'rs are collecting dust. I still need to get a set of good 2.6's for the 9'rs. Was hoping I'd see Minions or be able to get Magic Mary's by now but nope.


So, what does your plus wheel build look like, and what are you running for tires?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

Another question I should have asked earlier. Is this bike too big for say a Marathon distance race? Yes, I will still have a hard tail to cover this duty, but just wondering how far you dudes have rolled on the 6Fattie.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

phride said:


> So, what does your plus wheel build look like, and what are you running for tires?
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


3.0 Nobby Nics Apex PS rear/TS front - RF ARC35 hoops - DTS Comp spokes - Hope Pro 4 hubs. I have a fresh set of Addix Speedgrip NobNics to try when these get tired.


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

Has anyone put a tire on wider than 3"?


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

c41xracer said:


> Has anyone put a tire on wider than 3"?


I tried Bontrager Hodag 27.5 x 3.8 in the rear. Definitely did not fit, but it did fit in the front with the Fox 34 Factory Boost fork.


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

Drevil said:


> I tried Bontrager Hodag 27.5 x 3.8 in the rear. Definitely did not fit, but it did fit in the front with the Fox 34 Factory Boost fork.


Thanks for the info, I'm looking to try 3.5". I almost bought a Trek Farley FS over the weekend but stopped myself. If I can get a 3.5 to fit I can ride my 6 Fattie into the winter before the snow gets to deep and then i'll switch to my fat bike.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

c41xracer said:


> Thanks for the info, I'm looking to try 3.5". I almost bought a Trek Farley FS over the weekend but stopped myself. If I can get a 3.5 to fit I can ride my 6 Fattie into the winter before the snow gets to deep and then i'll switch to my fat bike.


The widest tire I ever successfully put in the rear of my 6F is the Duro Crux 27.5 x 3.25. That thing is meaty! The only place I could find it at the time is from Italy. The price is awesome, but the shipping was almost as much as the tire! 
Tire MTB 27,5+ black 27.5 x 3.25 DURO Tyres, MTB 27.5 Bike

One qualm about this tire is that I had one of them blow off the rim twice when run tubeless. I would not trust them tubeless again.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

wreckster said:


> Well, I'm sure I'm not the first. Brakes were a bit mushy even on my first ride on mine (2018 comp, guide R brakes) but I figured I'd give it a go. It had gotten to the point that the rear brake went to the bars and needed to be pumped to have pressure, on a brand new bike. It eventually went back to working, just mushy.
> 
> Took it back to the shop, helped him bleed the rear 3 times, every time the same thing. Initial bite is about right, but it's still mushy, can be squeezed to the bars with one finger with not too much effort. Sram sent replacements for both front and rear as the front wasn't stellar either. Back to shop with brand new pre-bled from factory brakes, exactly the same. For giggles I grabbed some shimano brakes on other bikes, nice initial bite and solid, no going to the bars on those, even their cheap stuff.
> 
> Shop nut is talking to sram again, but I don't have much faith that this will be fixed without buying different brakes, for a brand new bike.


It's an issue with ALL sram brakes... so much so that they issued a recall on them. Check the brake forum for more info.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> It's an issue with ALL sram brakes... so much so that they issued a recall on them. Check the brake forum for more info.


The recall on the SRAM brakes is due to the levers not returning. When hot the brake levers will not return and the brakes lock up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

Yeah, I know about the recall already. Sram reps are sticking with the "it's what you purchased, just how they feel." Not that they don't work, they do... sorta. Front works "ok" but the rear still feels far too mushy, almost like a cable brake would. I may try different pads, possibly swap to jagwire hoses and see how that does.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Just bite the bullet and swap them out for some Shimanos. Sram has some nice designs, and the brakes have nice modulation while they work, but the levers crap out all the time. One of my riding buddies owns a shop that carries brands largely fitted with Sram brakes, and he said that he does several thousand dollars of warrantee labor a year these last couple of years. He gets the parts free, but to keep his shop's reputation up, he's constantly replacing levers that often don't hold-up for even a month. New Deore brakes will run you $150 including fluid, bleed kit, and parts for the brake lines. I've started considering that a fixed upgrade cost for bikes with retail-level Sram brakes. It's downright affordable in my book when compared to the hassle of finicky stoppers.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

phride said:


> Just bite the bullet and swap them out for some Shimanos. Sram has some nice designs, and the brakes have nice modulation while they work, but the levers crap out all the time. One of my riding buddies owns a shop that carries brands largely fitted with Sram brakes, and he said that he does several thousand dollars of warrantee labor a year these last couple of years. He gets the parts free, but to keep his shop's reputation up, he's constantly replacing levers that often don't hold-up for even a month. New Deore brakes will run you $150 including fluid, bleed kit, and parts for the brake lines. I've started considering that a fixed upgrade cost for bikes with retail-level Sram brakes. It's downright affordable in my book when compared to the hassle of finicky stoppers.


Exactly this. My SRAM brakes locked up twice in one weekend. Drove to the bike store got a pair of SLX and put them on that afternoon. Never again will I get SRAM brakes. I am done

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Due to the location of the rear brake line (hanging below the BB), I've already had to replace it once. These Rocky Mountains catch you off your rythm sometimes and I wore the cable almost completely through. Might re-rout the cable on top of the down tube and over the BB,,,, or, Will a 29 inch wheelset raise the BB much? and has anyone tried to fit 29plus on their FSR?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Guess you didn't read the whole post since some of us have already posted that we have installed a 29+ on the front and which raised the BB and we also installed a bash guard to protect that area.

You can do a search in this post and you'll see some replies concerning 29+ and bash guards.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Stumpy 29(almost+)*



MikenIke said:


> ...Will a 29 inch wheelset raise the BB much? and has anyone tried to fit 29plus on their FSR?


I switch wheelsets between 27.5" with 3.0 tires (32mm inner rim width) and 29" with 2.6 tires (30mm inner width rims). The bottom bracket height increases about 1cm (apx.327mm to apx.337mm). The 29x2.6 tires (2.55" wide) are a close fit, only about 5mm chainstay clearance; I don't think a 29x2.8 or larger would fit.

6Fattie









9(semi)Fattie


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Thanks for the info and pics levity, that's exactly what I was wondering. And may I ask what rear shock you've installed that has a remote lockout?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Manitou McLeod shock*



MikenIke said:


> ...And may I ask what rear shock you've installed that has a remote lockout?


You have a sharp eye, Mike! 

It's a Manitou McLeod shock (with a Bike Yoke lower mount). I have it set up with their King Can at 1/2 (extra) volume. It took the suspension to another level and really transformed the bike. Traction and control are much improved, and there is more midstroke support and less wallowing. Plush but firm. Initially I didn't like the bike with "skinny" 29er tires and the Fox DPS, but the McLeod makes it so much sweeter that that I now prefer 29x2.6 for some terrain.









The remote is a Fox 3-position lever. Fast and easy to use, a "must have". Left grip area looks a little "busy", but everything operates smoothly. This and the McLeod have spoiled me, and I won't be able to go back.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

wreckster said:


> Yeah, I know about the recall already. Sram reps are sticking with the "it's what you purchased, just how they feel." Not that they don't work, they do... sorta. Front works "ok" but the rear still feels far too mushy, almost like a cable brake would. I may try different pads, possibly swap to jagwire hoses and see how that does.


My wife's 6Fattie Sram brakes were mushy and would end up going to the bars by the end of the ride. We would adjust them out, but at the end of the next ride they would be hitting the bars again. I had two separate bleeds on them and was told if they do it again they would be replaced.

It would be $$ well spent to go to Shimano's. Shimano BR-M396 Disc Brake | Jenson USA $32 each wheel.


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## sajlonac (Sep 20, 2017)

Shimano best buy brakes would be m615. M396 are maybe a bit better then vbrake.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

I can't speak to the m396s, but the m615s are indistinguishable in performance to me from the SLX brakes that I tried and only distinguished from the XTs by the lack of lever adjustments. Maybe I do a better job of keeping my brakes dialed than my friends, but I agree that the m615s are the best deal going.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

I have got the magura MT7 and it's perfect for me. 215 Lbs and Enduro-all mountain use.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

phride said:


> ... the m615s are indistinguishable in performance to me from the SLX brakes...


Basically correct. Most significant difference on the lower spec brakes (up to Deore): the main piston within the brake caliper is made from alloy and is one mm smaller in diameter than the ceramic piston in the higher end models (SLX and up).

As a consequence the lower spec brakes may only use the composite brake pads, but not the metal pads. This can or can not be an issue for you, depending on your weight and riding habits.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

rpitz said:


> Basically correct. Most significant difference on the lower spec brakes (up to Deore): the main piston within the brake caliper is made from alloy and is one mm smaller in diameter than the ceramic piston in the higher end models (SLX and up).
> 
> As a consequence the lower spec brakes may only use the composite brake pads, but not the metal pads. This can or can not be an issue for you, depending on your weight and riding habits.


Is that specified somewhere?
On the metal pad packaging m615 is included in the list of compatible brakes.


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## rpitz (Feb 13, 2015)

ac1000 said:


> Is that specified somewhere?
> On the metal pad packaging m615 is included in the list of compatible brakes.


Oops, so I seem to stand corrected. My information dates 2 or 3 years back when I bought my last pair of aftermarket brakes...

But now, Shimano states otherwise for the 615:
BR-M615

According to that, the 615 ist safe to use with metal pads as well.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

levity said:


> You have a sharp eye, Mike!
> 
> It's a Manitou McLeod shock (with a Bike Yoke lower mount). I have it set up with their King Can at 1/2 (extra) volume. It took the suspension to another level and really transformed the bike. Traction and control are much improved, and there is more midstroke support and less wallowing. Plush but firm. Initially I didn't like the bike with "skinny" 29er tires and the Fox DPS, but the McLeod makes it so much sweeter that that I now prefer 29x2.6 for some terrain.
> 
> ...


I installed the Mcleod on my Fatbike and can tell the difference between that one and Fox on my Stumpy, much better flow.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Those 29x 2.6 tires seem to have dissapeared from the face of the planet as well, bummer, they look smart on your FSR!!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

sajlonac said:


> Shimano best buy brakes would be m615. M396 are maybe a bit better then vbrake.


M615 > M396 > vbrakes > Guides

I have the M615's on mine, sold my XTR's because I couldnt tell a difference between them.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

Quick question for all you stumpers. Is Calf-Bang actually a major issue? LBS has a 17 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 6Fattie on sale for 2500. I tried to search on the forums here and didn't find much about it. I am sure it has been discussed. This is going to be my first legit bike and I wanna make the right decision dropping that kind of money.

For reference.
https://www.singletracks.com/blog/m...bikes-rated-quantifying-the-calf-bang-factor/

Thanks.


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

2018s are only a little more.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

wreckster said:


> 2018s are only a little more.


This is true. IS there much difference? I like the purple better than the ugly green of the 2018.


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

:-( but... green.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

If it was any shade of green other than that one... I would be all over it.


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

Different strokes. The green is why I purchased mine. You can keep the purple nerp. I don't remember if the 17s come with the wider rims or not.


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## GhostHustler (May 7, 2007)

Is your's a 29r?


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

no, 6fattie comp aluminum. They sell them with either the 27.5+(as 6fattie) or 29er wheelset, you pick.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

dbrydah said:


> Quick question for all you stumpers. Is Calf-Bang actually a major issue? LBS has a 17 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 6Fattie on sale for 2500. I tried to search on the forums here and didn't find much about it. I am sure it has been discussed. This is going to be my first legit bike and I wanna make the right decision dropping that kind of money.
> 
> For reference.
> https://www.singletracks.com/blog/m...bikes-rated-quantifying-the-calf-bang-factor/
> ...


Um, I have big calves. My calves contact the seat stays periodically. It's more calf brush than bang, and I don't care at all. Somebody went to the trouble of comparing it. I'd take his word for it. If it's something that concerns you, demo one or get a different bike. The bike has its strengths (e.g., plush, balanced, traction for days) and weaknesses (low BB, less efficient pedaling than most modern bikes). I wouldn't add calf bang to the latter list, but you might. It seems like a strange deal killer, but everyone has strange deal killers, and many of them also relate to bike fit.


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## skywalkertrancex (Apr 9, 2012)

My calves brush periodically too, nothing to worry about. I don't even notice it now...I'd buy it again knowing this.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Went in to get my first suspension overhaul on my 2016 comp carbon.... ended up with a new chain, new shimano finned metallic brake pads, new ODI Elite Pro grips, new threaded bottom bracket (Wheels Manufacturing PF30 Bottom Brackets) , and new 38mm Roval Traverse wheels. That escalated quickly, lol.

I put an old WTB Trail Boss on the front and my old Rocket Ron 3.0 on the rear for the winter riding. I am thinking the new Specialized Butcher 2.8's will go on for the spring. Pics will be up soon for you guys.


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## sajlonac (Sep 20, 2017)

phride said:


> ...less efficient pedaling than most modern bikes..


Can you, please, explain to me what do you mean? What are differences against other bikes that make less efficient pedaling?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

sajlonac said:


> Can you, please, explain to me what do you mean? What are differences against other bikes that make less efficient pedaling?


Oh boy. I'll try to keep this short and simple and probably over-generalized, but if you google anti-squat, you will have the opportunity to go down a rabbit hole from which you need never emerge. I'm sure somebody will jump in to disagree or put a finer point on things, but I can tell you what I was thinking in saying that.

The Stumpjumper suspension is designed with less of an emphasis on inhibiting compression of the shock under pedaling forces than some other suspension designs. In general, modern bikes, are designed such that the force exerted by the chain on the rear triangle counteract the natural tendency of the suspension to compress during acceleration. Earlier designs of many bikes, including the FSR suspension platform used by Specialized, did not do this as well and, thus, significant portions of pedaling energy were wasted on movement of the suspension, rather than on moving the bike forward.

In recent years, the FSR suspension platform used by Specialized and others has been designed to achieve 100% anti-squat (pedaling forces exactly counteract the tendency of suspension to compress) when the bike is near its neutral sag point under rider weight, However, other suspension platforms, like Santa Cruz's VPP and DW Link designs, maintain that 100% anti-squat throughout the upper half of the bike's travel. (In the lower half of the travel, the rider is presumably charging downhill and the suspension absorbing bigger hits, and thus pedaling efficiency is not as big a factor.)

The FSR (as well as single pivot and split pivot) designs have relatively linear falling anti-squat rates, where the pedals offer progressively less resistance to suspension compression, the more the suspension compresses. A falling anti-squat rate results in less efficient pedaling compared to VPP designs (a generalized term including Santa Cruz, DW Link, and others) in situations where the suspension is compressed, such as when pedaling over rough terrain or when standing and mashing on the pedals. On the SJ, the anti-squat falls at a rate that is faster than that of competing bikes, like the Cannondale Bad Habit (a single pivot) and DeVinci Marshall (a split pivot). Thus, there are many bikes that pedal more efficiently than the SJ.

There are trade-offs to this greater efficiency, and in previous versions of suspension designs that emphasized anti-squat, those trade-offs often gave-up a lot in suspension performance. One trade-off for this loss of efficiency is that because pedaling forces do not resist compression of the shock as much, the shock is free to respond to bumps when pedaling, and thus traction is optimized. Also, because pedaling does not resist suspension compression as much, the pedals are less likely to kickback when an obstacle is encountered that forces the shock to compress, as on suspension systems emphasizing anti-squat behavior. The degree to which each of these trade-offs (and others) is an issue varies with the specific design. These trade-offs were much more problematic when anti-squat levels much greater than 100% were incorporated into some suspension designs, but there are definitely characteristics of each design that annoy or appeal to different people riding different terrain.

The way that I perceive these differences is that the FSR suspension is more plush and responsive and, in some cases, provides better traction than some of the VPP designs. The advantages of the FSR platform are diminishing as VPP designs get better, however, while internal shock damping performance has also improved, allowing for the inefficiencies of the FSR and other similarly sensitive platforms to be compensated somewhat. That said, were I to be buying a bike now, I'd likely get something with a more efficient pedaling design, as I prefer the firm pedaling platform and not having to worry about flipping the compression damping mode switch on my shock. YMMV,


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

phride said:


> That said, were I to be buying a bike now, I'd likely get something with a more efficient pedaling design, as I prefer the firm pedaling platform and not having to worry about flipping the compression damping mode switch on my shock. YMMV,


And that's what it comes down to. You value those properties on a bike and will chose a bike with a firm feel. I personally can't stand bikes like that and much prefer the less stiff freer moving feel of a bike like the SJ in almost every situation.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

ac1000 said:


> And that's what it comes down to. You value those properties on a bike and will chose a bike with a firm feel. I personally can't stand bikes like that and much prefer the less stiff freer moving feel of a bike like the SJ in almost every situation.


I did, too, until the latest iterations of the SC VPP and DW Link. That said, the SJ is good enough that I'm not selling and buying a new bike. If I want efficient, I can always head out on my CX bike.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Wow! Great write up.

I have found that those efficient platforms (Evil, Yeti, Santa Cruz, and especially Pivot) feel like the suspension is locked out or like a hardtail and you cant control it. The non-efficient platforms (Transition, Salsa, and Specialized SJ) have the ability to control the stiffness while pedaling, and give you the option to maintain a little "give" for a much plusher ride when you need it. 

I just throw mine on Descend for the fork and Trail for the shock and that covers about 90% of my riding.


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## sajlonac (Sep 20, 2017)

@phride ok thanks for the clarification, now is much more clear what you write about in previous post... But, as this is my second FS bike (I had mostly hardtails..) i am not that much into that problematics... Before SJ I had Giant Anthem 2014 and maestro suspension, as far as I know, applies to be one of better ones? But, to be honest, FSR is better to me. 
Simply, there was much more difference in pedaling when shock is locked against open on Anthem than it is on SJ. Maybe I am wrong but that is my experience. 
Anyway in my country, bikes such as Santa Cruz, Evil and so on are so rare and almost impossible to buy. I am talking about used bikes of course, because there aren't retailers for new ones are all 
So, all in all, I am more then pleased with this SJ bit is good to know that there are bikes with different (or to say, better) suspension.


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## Twimby (Jun 27, 2013)

I have not checked in here for a while.

Early adopter just over 2 years now. Over 2000 k's (This is my single track bike only). Fatboy is my traveller and beat about bike that I have flogged.

Changes include Arc 40's with Hope Hubs, Answer 20:20 bar (Thanks to a thread from Mikesee, very comfortable), Wheels eccentric BB, one XT brake and Raceface 170 crank.

Just changed out my old replacement Purg tonight with a NN that has been sitting there for months. Weather has warmed up a Purg bled so much it went flat in a week. I also have a Purg Grid that replaced the GC. Grid has not bled.

GC was the replacement one from the first batch. It got so bad the Stans used to bubble like a teething baby.









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## m4rki (Sep 24, 2013)

Is there any reason i cant fit a 2.8 tyre to 650b stumpy. Would that also solve the low bottom bracket issue


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

m4rki said:


> Is there any reason i cant fit a 2.8 tyre to 650b stumpy. Would that also solve the low bottom bracket issue


Is it a Boost frame 650b or just standard 142? If the latter, I would think that might be a very tight fit with most 2.8's, especially any Schwalbes.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

m4rki said:


> Is there any reason i cant fit a 2.8 tyre to 650b stumpy. Would that also solve the low bottom bracket issue


If it does fit it would maybe raise your bottom bracket by about 3/16". An offset bushing or the alternate yoke would raise it more but steepen your head angle. 5mm shorter cranks also help.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Went in to get my first suspension overhaul on my 2016 comp carbon.... ended up with a new chain, new shimano finned metallic brake pads, new ODI Elite Pro grips, new threaded bottom bracket (Wheels Manufacturing PF30 Bottom Brackets) , and new 38mm Roval Traverse wheels. That escalated quickly, lol.
> 
> I put an old WTB Trail Boss on the front and my old Rocket Ron 3.0 on the rear for the winter riding. I am thinking the new Specialized Butcher 2.8's will go on for the spring. Pics will be up soon for you guys.


That threaded BB is the real deal. Have been using it on my last few bikes and it is flawless. Press-fit is garbage.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Confirmed at a LBS: a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5x2.8 at 16 psi mounted on a 38mm inner width rim fits in the back of a 2017 650b boost Stumpy with ~5mm clearance to the chainstays. I did not get a chance to deflate the shock so I can't say for sure that it will clear the seat tube at full compression, but it didn't look like that will be a problem.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Thinking of using this shock with a Bike Yoke,,,,,2017, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Up Evol SV, FOX, AM, 7.875x2.0. 
Close to the recommended 7.75x1.9 measurements, can it be close enough?


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## m4rki (Sep 24, 2013)

levity said:


> Confirmed at a LBS: a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5x2.8 at 16 psi mounted on a 38mm inner width rim fits in the back of a 2017 650b boost Stumpy with ~5mm clearance to the chainstays. I did not get a chance to deflate the shock so I can't say for sure that it will clear the seat tube at full compression, but it didn't look like that will be a problem.


You think this would work on a non boost model. My local has 2016 carbon frame hanging on the wall


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

m4rki said:


> You think this would work on a non boost model. My local has 2016 carbon frame hanging on the wall


I don't know how the shape of the chain stays changed from 2016 to 2017 going to boost. The only one way to know for sure would be to throw on a rear wheel and tire and make the measurements. You can calculate/estimate how wide a tire will fit based on how much clearance you observe with whatever tire you use. The widest point will move outward a bit for larger tires, but this is a smaller effect than the change in width. FYI, the 27.5x2.6 NN that I mentioned above measured 2.77" wide at the knobs.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

MikenIke said:


> Thinking of using this shock with a Bike Yoke,,,,,2017, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Up Evol SV, FOX, AM, 7.875x2.0.
> Close to the recommended 7.75x1.9 measurements, can it be close enough?


Doubt it. They recommended a 7.5x2 not a 7.75x1.9. A 7.875 would likely top out higher than the bike's physical limit.
You can't compare the bikeyoke shock length to the stock yoke shock length.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

I knew I was having too many beers, back to the drawing board.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

I just returned a demo to the shop, 2017 6Fattie Stumpjumper Comp and got two rides on it while I had it. I experienced the pedal strikes and calf brushing that have been discussed, and none of that really detracted from my experience. I rode my local trails, which are steep, rocky with lots of loose over hard. Without trying, I PR's almost all segments that went downhill. Kinda fun. The bike climbed really well, even in the 'open' setting and standing up, the back wheel did not break loose on a long, loose climb. I felt like I was cheating on the downhills, blasting through sections that I have to really pick a good line in on my 29 HT. It was a lot of fun!

Now, I am debating on the 6Fattie Comp vs 6 Fattie Comp Carbon. I felt the demo bike was a bit heavy at 32.5 lbs on my home scale. How much lighter is that carbon bike going to be? How much better is the ride quality? I think there is about a $700 difference between the two models. Is the carbon bike worth the extra $?


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## BKB (Sep 1, 2006)

I'm 2 months new with my 2016 6fattie. With the weather changing, I'm looking into some winter tires. What's working for you. I don't mind trying 2.8's if the selection is better.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

tjkm said:


> I just returned a demo to the shop, 2017 6Fattie Stumpjumper Comp and got two rides on it while I had it. I experienced the pedal strikes and calf brushing that have been discussed, and none of that really detracted from my experience. I rode my local trails, which are steep, rocky with lots of loose over hard. Without trying, I PR's almost all segments that went downhill. Kinda fun. The bike climbed really well, even in the 'open' setting and standing up, the back wheel did not break loose on a long, loose climb. I felt like I was cheating on the downhills, blasting through sections that I have to really pick a good line in on my 29 HT. It was a lot of fun!
> 
> Now, I am debating on the 6Fattie Comp vs 6 Fattie Comp Carbon. I felt the demo bike was a bit heavy at 32.5 lbs on my home scale. How much lighter is that carbon bike going to be? How much better is the ride quality? I think there is about a $700 difference between the two models. Is the carbon bike worth the extra $?


My comp carbon was about 2lbs lighter than my friends comp and has a much better fork, not to mention the SWAT box. Sorta worth it. Carbon rims and Schwalbe tires shaved some more weight.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

MikenIke said:


> My comp carbon was about 2lbs lighter than my friends comp and has a much better fork, not to mention the SWAT box. Sorta worth it. Carbon rims and Schwalbe tires shaved some more weight.[/QUOT
> 
> MikenIke - thanks. After sleeping on it, I think I am going to go with the carbon model. I don't have the chance to buy a new bike very often, might as well get exactly what I want.


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## MikenIke (May 4, 2013)

Had the same issue as you, Aluminum or Carbon and glad I went with more expensive model. I’ve put about 750 miles on it since bought in May, and although I’ve had to replace/upgrade some parts, the basic bike design is pretty good. And I ride like a jackass.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Got my aluminum 6F to just under 30lbs.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

RS VR6 said:


> Got my aluminum 6F to just under 30lbs.


How? What size?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Hompie (Jul 28, 2012)

I got the base carbon version, not for the weight but because of the swat box. Don't regret it at all. Don't remember if the fork was better. Have it for 2 years now. So happy to have the basic stuff always in the swat box.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

MikenIke said:


> Had the same issue as you, Aluminum or Carbon and glad I went with more expensive model. I've put about 750 miles on it since bought in May, and although I've had to replace/upgrade some parts, the basic bike design is pretty good. And I ride like a jackass.


I ride like a jackass. It's my favorite feature of the bike. It makes me feel like a teenage hoodlum again. Sometimes, I'll drop the post, and splay my knees out wide, just to really get into that groove, but I found it hard to ride with my helmet turned around backwards, and that spoils the feel, so I go back to riding like a jackass based on the terrain.

Relative to the previous question, the difference in weight between the carbon and aluminum frame is on the order of 0.75 to 1 pound for the front triangle. SWorks and any other full carbon models they have now may have slightly better weight savings on the frame, but the big difference on those is the other carbon bits.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Hompie said:


> I got the base carbon version, not for the weight but because of the swat box. Don't regret it at all. Don't remember if the fork was better. Have it for 2 years now. So happy to have the basic stuff always in the swat box.


Yeah, I can't imagine caring about the little bit of weight difference if I had the aluminum version.
But the swat box is awesome. Fits pump, shock pump, tiny bag of extra parts (brake pads, zip ties, tire plugs, stuff like that) and a tube.
Plus, and this might seem like a tiny thing, but I don't think you get the tool storage on the alloy version. My bike has a multitool that fits just in front of the shock. That's actually more useful than the swat box.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

ac1000 said:


> Yeah, I can't imagine caring about the little bit of weight difference if I had the aluminum version.
> But the swat box is awesome. Fits pump, shock pump, tiny bag of extra parts (brake pads, zip ties, tire plugs, stuff like that) and a tube.
> Plus, and this might seem like a tiny thing, but I don't think you get the tool storage on the alloy version. My bike has a multitool that fits just in front of the shock. That's actually more useful than the swat box.


All those little features are great, and I think you are correct about the AL version not having the multi tool on the cage.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

phride said:


> How? What size?
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Medium.

XM Apex i39 carbon hoops with Hope Pro 4 hubs and DT Swiss Competition spokes, Ibis carbon bar, X0 crank, Syntace X-12 rear axle, Fox Kabolt front axle, and ZEE brakes. Rest of the drivetrain parts besides the crank are still the stock GX.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

ac1000 said:


> Yeah, I can't imagine caring about the little bit of weight difference if I had the aluminum version.
> But the swat box is awesome. Fits pump, shock pump, tiny bag of extra parts (brake pads, zip ties, tire plugs, stuff like that) and a tube.
> Plus, and this might seem like a tiny thing, but I don't think you get the tool storage on the alloy version. My bike has a multitool that fits just in front of the shock. That's actually more useful than the swat box.


Agree with this 100%. My carbon bike may weigh more than an aluminum bike due to the stuff I️ have jammed in the down tube. I️ can pit a tube, extra tools, and jacket. My bike with pedals weighs 28lbs. LB wheels, schwalbe tires, and next sl cranks. Currently running a garbaruk 11-48 cassette which saves about 1/2 pound over xt. Love this bike.

No I️ idea why Tapatalk is changing I️, need to update
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## deadgoat (Jan 19, 2004)

I also put Bontrager Hodags 27.5 x 3.0 on my 6 Fattie. Front fits fine, rear tire fits between the chain and seat stays fine but I cannot use the top 3 gears on the cassette as the chain hits the tire.


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

deadgoat said:


> I also put Bontrager Hodags 27.5 x 3.0 on my 6 Fattie. Front fits fine, rear tire fits between the chain and seat stays fine but I cannot use the top 3 gears on the cassette as the chain hits the tire.


Do you mean the Hodags 3.8"? You might be able to try a different chainring with less offset. I know SRAM makes them -6, -3, or 0 offset. The 0 offset moves the chain away from the tire. Chain line will not be as good but might still work.


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## wraydp (Sep 11, 2007)

Does anyone have the weight for the traverse aluminum 27.5 fattie wheels with the Hi Lo hubs? It has the 29mm internal rim width and came with the 2016 6Fattie carbon comp model. 

I'm sure it has been posted in this tread somewhere, but I have only gotten about half way through so far. Thanks.


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

wraydp said:


> Does anyone have the weight for the traverse aluminum 27.5 fattie wheels with the Hi Lo hubs? It has the 29mm internal rim width and came with the 2016 6Fattie carbon comp model...


dug up these #s from records of our 2016 6Fatties (Hi Lo hubs, Roval rims) -

Comp carbon Rhyme, 29mm inner width rims: F 692g, R 785; total 1917g

Pro Fuse, 38mm inner width rims: F 1035g, R 1228; total 2263g

IIRC these were weighed with OEM rim strips and valve stems.


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## wraydp (Sep 11, 2007)

levity said:


> dug up these #s from records of our 2016 6Fatties (Hi Lo hubs, Roval rims) -
> 
> Comp carbon Rhyme, 29mm inner width rims: F 692g, R 785; total 1917g
> 
> ...


Awesome. Thanks Levity


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

phride said:


> Oh boy. I'll try to keep this short and simple and probably over-generalized, but if you google anti-squat, you will have the opportunity to go down a rabbit hole from which you need never emerge. I'm sure somebody will jump in to disagree or put a finer point on things, but I can tell you what I was thinking in saying that.
> 
> The Stumpjumper suspension is designed with less of an emphasis on inhibiting compression of the shock under pedaling forces than some other suspension designs. In general, modern bikes, are designed such that the force exerted by the chain on the rear triangle counteract the natural tendency of the suspension to compress during acceleration. Earlier designs of many bikes, including the FSR suspension platform used by Specialized, did not do this as well and, thus, significant portions of pedaling energy were wasted on movement of the suspension, rather than on moving the bike forward.
> 
> ...


Do you have a link to the anti squat graphs of comparable bikes to the SJ? I have looked but only could find graphs comparing xc bikes. Thanks


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

rupps5 said:


> Do you have a link to the anti squat graphs of comparable bikes to the SJ? I have looked but only could find graphs comparing xc bikes. Thanks


Go to linkage design. Com and look up the Specialized bikes. The 6 Fattie is a half dozen bikes down. It was the first, however, so you'll need to do the same for the other bikes I mentioned to get a good comparison. I'm not sure that the Stumpy is used as a reference for the other bikes, but it could be.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

rupps5 said:


> Do you have a link to the anti squat graphs of comparable bikes to the SJ? I have looked but only could find graphs comparing xc bikes. Thanks


You can look here
Specialized 6Fattie 2016 - Linkage Design


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## JillRide45 (Dec 11, 2015)

JillRide45 said:


> You can look here
> Specialized 6Fattie 2016 - Linkage Design


Also note how gearing changes the anti-squat, with 1x11 or 1x12 your first chainring/cassette combo can really change the anti-squat and pedal kick-back. I had an Ibis HD3 that I wanted to run a 26 front chainring on; I hated that combo. The anti-squat was so high and pedal kick-back so much it became harsh.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

I don't get it. I changed the pivot link to the longer one a few months ago, but I still end up clunking on things? 









(Yesterday's the first time I've ever been able to ride directly onto the top of a picnic table.)


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Drevil impresses us yet again!!!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

levity said:


> Drevil impresses us yet again!!!
> 
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


Haha, thanks Levity. Just goofin' around 

So has anyone done a complete overhaul and replaced parts on their IRCC dropper post? I don't know if it changed from last year, but my IRCC is the one on the S-works, which I bought last March 2016. Right now, it's sticking, and not raising all the way up. It also loses air every ride. I've done the 6-month service (



) 3 times in the last 3 weeks, but because it's happening so much now I believe I have to gut it and put in new parts following this video (



). I don't have the bullet tool (4:55) to put the top seal head, but I'm guessing I can get by with a little finesse?

If anyone's done a full service with parts replacement, any advice? Do you know if I can get a service kit that will have all the o-rings/bushings/keys etc, or do I have to order everything one by one? Thanks!


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Drevil said:


> Haha, thanks Levity. Just goofin' around
> 
> So has anyone done a complete overhaul and replaced parts on their IRCC dropper post? I don't know if it changed from last year, but my IRCC is the one on the S-works, which I bought last March 2016. Right now, it's sticking, and not raising all the way up. It also loses air every ride. I've done the 6-month service (
> 
> ...


Not sure if this is useful, but my LBS rebuilt mine for $30 and it still works like new after a month. They said it had a lot of dirt in it - probably from where the wiper came out a few times.


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

TNTall said:


> Not sure if this is useful, but my LBS rebuilt mine for $30 and it still works like new after a month. They said it had a lot of dirt in it - probably from where the wiper came out a few times.


That's good advice. Sometimes you just want to hand over your baby and let someone else handle all the poop.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I had the same issue where it was sticking going up even with 50psi of air in it. I let the air out, unscrewed the collar, removed the entire shaft out of the bike, and put a big ol' finger-full of Slick Honey all over it. Put everything back together, and it now goes up and down perfectly with about 12psi of air. 

Edit: Just read that it is losing air. Get it serviced bro, you might need some new seals.


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## skywalkertrancex (Apr 9, 2012)

Mine was doing the same thing (2017 Stumpjumper Pro) had to pump it up every 2-3 rides. My LBS told me it needed a seal kit, sent it back and installed a new post for me. No issues the past few weeks...


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## Drevil (Dec 31, 2003)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I had the same issue where it was sticking going up even with 50psi of air in it. I let the air out, unscrewed the collar, removed the entire shaft out of the bike, and put a big ol' finger-full of Slick Honey all over it. Put everything back together, and it now goes up and down perfectly with about 12psi of air.
> 
> Edit: Just read that it is losing air. Get it serviced bro, you might need some new seals.


Yeah, I just dropped it off and they ordered a new service kit. Sad that there'll be a weekend without my Stumpy, but it'll give me a chance to reacquaint with the other bikes


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Same thing just started happening with mine. I guess two years isn't a bad replacement interval. Time to call the shop. Good thing I like my CX bike so much.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

By far the most reliable and easiest to work on dropper on the market, imho.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Thustlewhumber said:


> By far the most reliable and easiest to work on dropper on the market, imho.


In my extensive local rider tribe, it's always the first thing immediately removed and sold on craigslist from a new factory build and then replaced with a LEV Integra that I can fully service. That and most all Sram brakes! :lol:


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I just looked them up on Pinkbike Buy and Sell... they are going for super cheap (like, $150 bucks!). Classic case of people not knowing what they have. I highly recommend getting one of these over any of the low end models from other brands.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Thustlewhumber said:


> I just looked them up on Pinkbike Buy and Sell... they are going for super cheap (like, $150 bucks!). Classic case of people not knowing what they have. I highly recommend getting one of these over any of the low end models from other brands.


I'll let you know when any come through our network. :lol:


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

I first found the seal to get stuck and pop out of the collar. Once I re-seated that seal, I found the seatpost very slow to come up and added way more pressure than I should. This did allow the post to pop up, but I also found that seal would continue to pop out. 

I was told to grease up the seal to allows the post to more easily move past the seal and this has completely resolved the issue for me. I use either used dry lube or light grease and have found the seatpost to be flawless every since.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Outlier73 said:


> I first found the seal to get stuck and pop out of the collar. Once I re-seated that seal, I found the seatpost very slow to come up and added way more pressure than I should. This did allow the post to pop up, but I also found that seal would continue to pop out.
> 
> I was told to grease up the seal to allows the post to more easily move past the seal and this has completely resolved the issue for me. I use either used dry lube or light grease and have found the seatpost to be flawless every since.


Yeah, I went through the reseating the seal and adding slick honey. That was a year ago. This is new and different. The post moves freely. It just doesn't hold pressure. Reminds me to call my shop and ask about it.


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## damo666 (Dec 15, 2017)

Hi all,

I have seen a few references to removing the travel limiters from the 6fattie rear shock, to provide more rear travel.

Just wondering if anyone has seen or done this and can advise how it goes?


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

damo666 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have seen a few references to removing the travel limiters from the 6fattie rear shock, to provide more rear travel.
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has seen or done this and can advise how it goes?


Yes, I have done it. The spacer is approx 3mm, which makes the travel approximately 142mm, maybe 143. I paired this with the extended Specialized yoke, which extends the eye to eye approx 3mm. So I have the benefit of raising the BB in order to help with pedal strikes, but at bottom out it's no lower than it was originally. I also added a 1.5mm offset bushing to further raise the BB, but that is not for everyone, because it goes against the grain for a slack HA. My bike is around 68 degree HA, but thats where I like it.

As far as how to do it, take the air can off and cut off the black plastic spacer that is on the shaft. Leave the metal washer there. You can find a diagram online and know which parts are normally in the Monarch shock and which part Specialized added in. Assuming that is the model you have.


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## damo666 (Dec 15, 2017)

bpd131 said:


> Yes, I have done it. The spacer is approx 3mm, which makes the travel approximately 142mm, maybe 143. I paired this with the extended Specialized yoke, which extends the eye to eye approx 3mm. So I have the benefit of raising the BB in order to help with pedal strikes, but at bottom out it's no lower than it was originally. I also added a 1.5mm offset bushing to further raise the BB, but that is not for everyone, because it goes against the grain for a slack HA. My bike is around 68 degree HA, but thats where I like it.
> 
> As far as how to do it, take the air can off and cut off the black plastic spacer that is on the shaft. Leave the metal washer there. You can find a diagram online and know which parts are normally in the Monarch shock and which part Specialized added in. Assuming that is the model you have.


Thanks for the response - makes sense to combine it with the longer yoke.
Any issues with wheel/frame clearance? Which tire are you running on the rear?


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

You're talking about removing the bottom out o-ring cushion on the shaft. If you're maxing travel, how could that be a good thing on the shock?


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Oh My Sack! said:


> You're talking about removing the bottom out o-ring cushion on the shaft. If you're maxing travel, how could that be a good thing on the shock?


No he's taking about removing the 3mm thick plastic spacer on top of the O-ring. My only thought is whether the IFP depth should be increased so the damper piston nut doesn't hit the IFP.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

ac1000 said:


> No he's taking about removing the 3mm thick plastic spacer on top of the O-ring. My only thought is whether the IFP depth should be increased so the damper piston nut doesn't hit the IFP.


I haven't noticed any issues, but this is the Monarch Plus RC3, which I am not sure that it would have this issue. The shock was also Avy tuned BEFORE I removed the spacer. I'm guessing when it goes in for a rebuild and I inform him of the added 3mm stroke length, Craig will make a slight adjustment.

I actually have the identical set up with a Bike Yoke, two offset bushings, and a Monarch Plus RC3 with 2" stroke, and it feels identical still.


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

damo666 said:


> Thanks for the response - makes sense to combine it with the longer yoke.
> Any issues with wheel/frame clearance? Which tire are you running on the rear?


No, not even close to problems with wheel/tire clearance using 27.5X3.0 Purgatory, Ground Controls, Nobby Nic and Ron Rockets.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Maybe you 6fattie aficionados can help me. I hate this bike, but I'm trying really hard to like it.

It's not my "only". It's a bike I bought for my then-14yo son who is about to turn 16 and really isn't doing much in the way of mountain biking anymore because cars and girls. But, at the time he rode a size medium, as do I, so I could justify the expenditure because I knew I'd eventually end up with a 2nd bike. Right now, my other currently 14yo son is starting to want to ride a little with me, and yesterday we went out for a 9 mile loop and swapped bikes mid-way.

Now, I have never liked the Plus bikes, including this 6fattie. I've been riding for 30 years, and I have settled in on 2.4-ish tires on wide rims, medium travel trail bike. I have a SC 5010c that i like a lot. The only plus bike I have ridden that I actually like (or didn't feel like a plus bike) was a Pivot Mach 429Trail at the Sedona MTB Festival earlier this year. It felt "normal" to me, and I'm not quite sure why.

I am trying really hard to like the 6fattie, as I feel like I am missing something based on the ranting and raving about this bike in particular, and the sheer amount of plus bikes I am seeing on the trails.

My 2 biggest complaints - "floppy" steering and the rolling resistance.

The first part is pretty self explanatory, it just feels like the front wheel is flopping back and forth as if the front end is too far out, too much rake or too slack HT angle? I believe I am running enough pressure in the rear shock so it is not sagging unnecessarily and causing the exaggerated HA, is there anything I am missing here?

2nd thing, the rolling resistance. MY GOD. It feels like I am dragging a dead body through mud behind me. Even on flat, smooth terrain I have to pedal to keep up momentum or the bike noticeably slows down. I have the rear tire set up at 19psi (front at 17), I've been led to believe that is a high pressure for these 3" tires? I have debated going to a 2.8" REKON or something similar, hoping that would help. But, I don't want to throw money at the problem if its not going to help considering these tires are not cheap.

I don't have the low BB concerns, or at least I am a smooth enough rider to make sure my pedals are always in a good spot so as not to clip rocks. I've been reading about the slightly longer yoke and how that may push the HA steeper a bit, but not sure that's enough to make it less floppy. I don't mind if the BB goes up by 6mm, but again I don't want to spend the $60 if it won't address concern #1.

So a little about me, I'm about 215 kitted up and ready to ride, in AZ riding mostly desert single track - rocky, but not chunky. Small bump compliance is important to me. And also, I think most posts should have pics so here are the 2 bikes. I'll take any advice I can get, thanks for reading.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

blaklabl said:


> Maybe you 6fattie aficionados can help me. I hate this bike, but I'm trying really hard to like it.


Some ideas:
Try less pressure in the fork, possibly a little more pressure in the shock. It may or may not be great like that but given you feel the bike is floppy and too raked out for your tastes that could test your hypothesis.

Borrow some 29" wheels from a friend. You aren't crazy if you don't like the feel of plus tires. Not everyone does.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

I have a 2016 Expert 6Fattie. I'm 225 geared up, close to you... I never use the auto sag on the shock (forget it exist's) I run body weight plus 10psi. I also run the shock in the middle setting. The Horst link makes the bike very plush and this works well for me.

I set my fork at 30% sag. I've also settled on 2.8 tires (mostly Maxxis) I couldn't find a 3.0 that suited my needs...rolling resistance, sidewall squirm and traction. I did buy the rear yoke too. 

My suggestions may or may not help you but I love my Spesh, it's a great trail bike.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

gdb85 said:


> I have a 2016 Expert 6Fattie. I'm 225 geared up, close to you... I never use the auto sag on the shock (forget it exist's) I run body weight plus 10psi. I also run the shock in the middle setting. The Horst link makes the bike very plush and this works well for me.
> 
> I set my fork at 30% sag. I've also settled on 2.8 tires (mostly Maxxis) I couldn't find a 3.0 that suited my needs...rolling resistance, sidewall squirm and traction. I did buy the rear yoke too.
> 
> My suggestions may or may not help you but I love my Spesh, it's a great trail bike.


Agree. I'm on the '17 Expert but still on the 3.0 Nics. I built mine up new, though so I'm running a Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair and a Lyrik RT3 with the High BB yoke. I absolutely love how it handles the trail and the traction is just stupid awesome in my local conditions.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Maybe you are trying to get the plus bike to feel like your normal bike and that is the wrong train of thought? They are different bikes (duh I know) but we tend to get caught up in a certain feel we want instead of what the bike offers. For me the plus bike isn't about speed it's about taking a line that isn't there as I know there will be traction. It's about taking a corner deeper and faster than I can on a 2.4 tire bike. It's about smoothing out the trail and making it feel like they just did trail maintance. The plus bike covers up for my mistakes and keeps the rubber side down better than any bike I have ridden up to a full on downhill bike. The plus bike is like a downhill bike going down and a good trail bike going up which is my perfect do everything bike. It will not however keep up with my son on his 29er hardtail race bike (I have tried and failed many times). 

Just my ramblings but I hope you find a way to enjoy the bike.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Murchman said:


> Maybe you are trying to get the plus bike to feel like your normal bike and that is the wrong train of thought? They are different bikes (duh I know) but we tend to get caught up in a certain feel we want instead of what the bike offers. For me the plus bike isn't about speed it's about taking a line that isn't there as I know there will be traction. It's about taking a corner deeper and faster than I can on a 2.4 tire bike. It's about smoothing out the trail and making it feel like they just did trail maintance. The plus bike covers up for my mistakes and keeps the rubber side down better than any bike I have ridden up to a full on downhill bike. The plus bike is like a downhill bike going down and a good trail bike going up which is my perfect do everything bike. It will not however keep up with my son on his 29er hardtail race bike (I have tried and failed many times).
> 
> Just my ramblings but I hope you find a way to enjoy the bike.


Reasonable ramblings. I concur.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The rolling resistance of plus bikes on flat smooth trail sucks. It's just part of the deal. Add to that the relatively inefficient pedaling platform of the FSR, and you may wish for your 5010. That said, when it's chunky, the plus tires will turn the tables and be both better performing and roll faster.

With respect to wheel flop, the longer yoke does improve the handling. I was happy with it before, but I can pick a tighter line with the slightly steepened HTA.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Murchman said:


> Maybe you are trying to get the plus bike to feel like your normal bike and that is the wrong train of thought? They are different bikes (duh I know) but we tend to get caught up in a certain feel we want instead of what the bike offers.


There is probably some (a lot) of truth to this, especially when riding back to back on the same trail.

I'm going to do some of the air pressure adjustments to the fork/shock as suggested (more in rear, less in front) as well as increase air pressure in the rear tire to 21 psi per the Specialized recommended chart I found online last night. I'll see if that makes it more to my liking while still retaining the Plus bike qualities as @Murchman pointed out, and if it's going in the right direction I'll look to possibly throw on some Rekon 2.8's and invest in the longer yoke.

Thanks everyone for the feedback, and for not telling me I'm an idiot for not liking the bike...


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> There is probably some (a lot) of truth to this, especially when riding back to back on the same trail.
> 
> I'm going to do some of the air pressure adjustments to the fork/shock as suggested (more in rear, less in front) as well as increase air pressure in the rear tire to 21 psi per the Specialized recommended chart I found online last night. I'll see if that makes it more to my liking while still retaining the Plus bike qualities as @Murchman pointed out, and if it's going in the right direction I'll look to possibly throw on some Rekon 2.8's and invest in the longer yoke.
> 
> Thanks everyone for the feedback, and for not telling me I'm an idiot for not liking the bike...


When I had the stock 3.0 Purg's on I ran 21 in the rear and 18 in the front (35mm ID wheels)and I weight 215 geared up and that helped some with the rolling on flat ground with plenty of traction when needed. Any lower than that it was sluggish and had to much squirm. I have a Rekon 2.8 on the rear at 24PSI and that helped even more with the rolling resistance on flat ground.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

c41xracer said:


> When I had the stock 3.0 Purg's on I ran 21 in the rear and 18 in the front (35mm ID wheels)and I weight 215 geared up and that helped some with the rolling on flat ground with plenty of traction when needed. Any lower than that it was sluggish and had to much squirm. I have a Rekon 2.8 on the rear at 24PSI and that helped even more with the rolling resistance on flat ground.


They have replaced/warrantied the rear tire with a GRID version in the past few months, as the Control casing was weeping terribly. I thought I could get away with 19 (and that was high compared to what I read) due to the thicker sidewalls. I'll see if a few PSI makes it better.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

blaklabl said:


> There is probably some (a lot) of truth to this, especially when riding back to back on the same trail.
> 
> I'm going to do some of the air pressure adjustments to the fork/shock as suggested (more in rear, less in front) as well as increase air pressure in the rear tire to 21 psi per the Specialized recommended chart I found online last night. I'll see if that makes it more to my liking while still retaining the Plus bike qualities as @Murchman pointed out, and if it's going in the right direction I'll look to possibly throw on some Rekon 2.8's and invest in the longer yoke.
> 
> Thanks everyone for the feedback, and for not telling me I'm an idiot for not liking the bike...


I'm not a fan of fiddling with the shock pressure to tweak the geometry. That said, I do run the fork quite light (75-80 psi at 185-190#) and have never bottomed it out despite hitting huge rollers frequently and keeping it well maintained. (Your fork tune may vary.) I could also see running the shock in trail mode to make it less squatty and pedal more efficiently, do maybe that's not so different from what you are doing.

Let us know how it goes.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

phride said:


> I'm not a fan of fiddling with the shock pressure to tweak the geometry


I've been using the autosag which has mixed reviews, I'm going to try the body weight +10psi as suggested above and see what difference that makes. It could be that I have it too soft and that is causing it to rake out the front - I have been running it in the middle position, really don't want to have to take it to firm.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

blaklabl said:


> I've been using the autosag which has mixed reviews, I'm going to try the body weight +10psi as suggested above and see what difference that makes. It could be that I have it too soft and that is causing it to rake out the front - I have been running it in the middle position, really don't want to have to take it to firm.


Sounds good. There's no reason to consider putting it in firm unless you are on pavement. If after all this, you're thinking of setting the shock to closed on the trail, you should save yourself the aggravation and sell the bike.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> There is probably some (a lot) of truth to this, especially when riding back to back on the same trail.
> 
> I'm going to do some of the air pressure adjustments to the fork/shock as suggested (more in rear, less in front) as well as increase air pressure in the rear tire to 21 psi per the Specialized recommended chart I found online last night. I'll see if that makes it more to my liking while still retaining the Plus bike qualities as @Murchman pointed out, and if it's going in the right direction I'll look to possibly throw on some Rekon 2.8's and invest in the longer yoke.
> 
> Thanks everyone for the feedback, and for not telling me I'm an idiot for not liking the bike...


So, an update;

I upped rear shock pressure to body weight +10psi, and that helped with the rake issue (wasn't as pronounced) but the shock in OPEN mode was pretty firm. So I am guessing I had it too low (it was 180 when I went to air it up) and now sits at 220. I guess I should not be surprised at the difference 40psi made because that's a lot, so I'll play around with it a little and drop it down 5psi at a time until I hit a sweet spot. I think I may need the longer yoke if I have to go down much lower in PSI to maintain the proper ride height & geometry.

I put the rear tire (Ground Control GRID 3.0) up to 22psi and the rolling resistance was still more than I care for. I have never had a bike lose momentum when pedaling stops as fast as this one does - and yes I checked to make sure I don't have a brake dragging or hub issues - everything spins freely in the stand. So it seems like some Rekon 2.8's at a reasonable psi may fix that issue, I will have to add the yoke as well because I know I am going to lose some BB height.

I should be able to accomplish those 2 things for ~$200, which is cheaper than buying a full 29"er wheel set and tires. If I can get it at least somewhat enjoyable my 14yo can ride it and he won't complain that it handles like a pig. At this point he just keeps reaching for my 5010c! But at least he's out riding, so I can't complain about that.


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

Is this the 3mm spacer that everyone's talking about removing? Looks like to remove it you'll have to disassemble the dampener and then re bleed It.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Wow never seen one that size before, the one on mine is about the size of the bottom out o-ring on yours.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

So if you look at this picture in the circled area you can see the small black spacer behind the silver plate.


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

And how did you remove it? Did you take the dampener and compression piston with shims apart to remove the spacer? Or is there an easier way?


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

It's plastic so you just cut it of with a snip


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

Didn't want to cut it just in case i needed to put it back...

Oh well, wanted to take note of what compression shims are in there anyway.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Oh wow! I rebuilt my shock and was wondering what that thing was. I just removed it completely and hoped for the best; glad to see it wasn't needed.


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## AxelNose (Sep 5, 2017)

Is that picture of a monarch rt3 shock or a fox float?


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## rupps5 (Apr 9, 2010)

Mine is an rt3, the other is a fox


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

Hello everyone. A lot of great discussions on this thread. I got my 2018 stumpy comp 6fattie in late August. I'm loving it. One of the biggest factors in buying the Stumpjumper was the XXL size. Any others who are part giant and ride the XXL?


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Slyham said:


> Hello everyone. A lot of great discussions on this thread. I got my 2018 stumpy comp 6fattie in late August. I'm loving it. One of the biggest factors in buying the Stumpjumper was the XXL size. Any others who are part giant and ride the XXL?


Yep


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

TNTall said:


> Yep


Glad to see other giants out there on bikes. 

Here's a picture of mine. The large frame makes the tires look small.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Thats a wallpaper worthy pic. Where is that at?


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

Thustlewhumber said:


> Thats a wallpaper worthy pic. Where is that at?


Thanks. It's in Mesa, AZ near Phoenix. Hawes trail system. That's Red Mountain in the background.


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## mountainbyte (Oct 17, 2005)

*Longer linkage...*



Drevil said:


> I don't get it. I changed the pivot link to the longer one a few months ago, but I still end up clunking on things?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you have any info on where I could get or read about the longer linkage?

Thanks in advance...


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## 2wheelzeal (Aug 19, 2008)

I noticed the rolling resistance you're talking about and changed both stock tires to 2.8 Schwalbe Rocket Rons. They were also the Lite and "not cutproof" version, the lightest available. Saved about 3/4 of a pound Per Tire! The bike rolls much easier, but I'm sure I'm now short somewhat on the amazing traction of knobbier tires.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

mountainbyte said:


> Do you have any info on where I could get or read about the longer linkage?
> 
> Thanks in advance...


It's floating on this thread, maybe the Stumpy 6Fattie/29 thread. Not a lot to talk about. It raises your BB height about 5mm, steepens HT maybe .5°. I paid about $60 at Art's for mine. Your Specialized dealer should know about it. Easy DIY install, takes maybe 20 minutes. Worthy mod, IMO.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

blaklabl said:


> So, an update;
> 
> I upped rear shock pressure to body weight +10psi, and that helped with the rake issue (wasn't as pronounced) but the shock in OPEN mode was pretty firm. So I am guessing I had it too low (it was 180 when I went to air it up) and now sits at 220. I guess I should not be surprised at the difference 40psi made because that's a lot, so I'll play around with it a little and drop it down 5psi at a time until I hit a sweet spot. I think I may need the longer yoke if I have to go down much lower in PSI to maintain the proper ride height & geometry.
> 
> ...


I had sealant leak issues on my stock GC rear tire so replaced both the rear 3.0 GC and front 3.0 purg with two maxis rekon 2.8's. The traction on those tires was a huge improvement, but I ended up selling them after 2 or 3 rides because 1) it lowered the BB enough to cause a massive increase in pedal strikes, and 2) there was a big increase in rolling resistance.

I ended up putting 3.0 Purgatory Grids back on both front and rear. I found the Purg / GC tires as well as the Purg front and rear roll very well - which is quite contrary to what you are reporting. ...But I found they have way less rolling resistance than the Rekon's. However, the specialized tires don't provide me the same traction (or maybe it's just confidence) as the Rekons. So I'm considering going back to 2.8 rekon in the rear (which will lower the BB) and install the new yoke to raise the BB again. I may go with a 3.0 nobby nic on the front or high roller to keep the BB height up and HT angle mostly the same.

I guess what I'm saying is that the 3.0 specialized tires actually roll well compared to some other more aggressive tires out there. - see this youtube video where this guy from Bike Radar tested these tires rolling resistance. -


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

What do you guys think of 2.8" tires like the DHR and DHF on the 6Fattie Stumpy? I really like the 3" size on my bike, but want to get the DHR and DHF. I'm worried the 2.8" tires will increase the amount of pedal strikes. Any word of Maxxis making these tires in 27.5x3"?


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## SirSlow (Mar 31, 2014)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> What do you guys think of 2.8" tires like the DHR and DHF on the 6Fattie Stumpy? I really like the 3" size on my bike, but want to get the DHR and DHF. I'm worried the 2.8" tires will increase the amount of pedal strikes. Any word of Maxxis making these tires in 27.5x3"?


Maxxis DHR and DHF 2.8 measure out to more like 2.6. That's on a 40 mm rim.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Narrower tires sag less, in terms of mm rather than %. Wouldn't worry about significantly increased pedal strikes, especially considering the knob height on the minions.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

SirSlow said:


> Maxxis DHR and DHF 2.8 measure out to more like 2.6. That's on a 40 mm rim.


That's what I was afraid of. From what I've seen, the 29x3" DHF comes out a bit oversized and the 27.5x2.8 seem to be a bit undersized. Thanks for the response.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> What do you guys think of 2.8" tires like the DHR and DHF on the 6Fattie Stumpy? I really like the 3" size on my bike, but want to get the DHR and DHF. I'm worried the 2.8" tires will increase the amount of pedal strikes. Any word of Maxxis making these tires in 27.5x3"?


I run nothing but 2.8 Maxxis tires on my 6fattie. Love the tread and love the sidewall support. Just never felt real confident on any 3.0 tire.

I have them mounted on Roval i38 rims which seem perfect for 2.8's. I also switched to 170mm cranks in the spring (which "S" has spec'd this year on the 6fattie) and did the rear shock yoke change. Very few pedal strikes anymore if any.


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

gdb85 said:


> I run nothing but 2.8 Maxxis tires on my 6fattie. Love the tread and love the sidewall support. Just never felt real confident on any 3.0 tire.
> 
> I have them mounted on Roval i38 rims which seem perfect for 2.8's. I also switched to 170mm cranks in the spring (which "S" has spec'd this year on the 6fattie) and did the rear shock yoke change. Very few pedal strikes anymore if any.


How would you feel the smaller tire would be if you kept 175mm crank arms and didn't get the extended shock yoke?


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

The reason I did both was to eliminate the amount of pedal strikes, even with the 3.0 tires but it would have been more numerous with the 2.8's and neither of the other two changes for sure.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

I run the Bontrager Chupacabra
Size: 27.5 x 2.8 on the rear with their 29 X 3 on the front and no issue towards pedal striking and they roll pretty good.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> How would you feel the smaller tire would be if you kept 175mm crank arms and didn't get the extended shock yoke?


As I mentioned above, I moved from 3.0 Purg and GC tires to to 2.8 maxxis rekon's. I loved the Rekon tires as the traction gave me more confidence (although more rolling resistance) but I ended up selling them after a few rides and went back to 3.0 Purg's because of the increase in pedal strikes with the Maxxis 2.8's.

My 2016 6fattie has 175mm cranks. But I think if you switch to 170mm cranks, it would be enough to counter the lower ride height of the 2.8's.

I was considering pickup up some carbon 170mm cranks and going back to a 2.8 rear rekon and 2.8 Minion or something up front. or perhaps a 3.0 high roller or nobby nic up front and the higher yoke to keep the geometry more or less the same.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

The new 6Fatties come with a 3.0 up front and a 2.8 in the rear.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Thustlewhumber said:


> The new 6Fatties come with a 3.0 up front and a 2.8 in the rear.


And most likely with the longer yoke? Wonder if crank length is shorter as well now across the range.

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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

blaklabl said:


> And most likely with the longer yoke? Wonder if crank length is shorter as well now across the range.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


They are. If you read the "S" site all Stumpy 6fatties come with 170mm cranks in 2018.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

thats good to know. Seems Specialized had done the upgrades I may do to my Stumpjumper so I can be confident it will work without noticeably changing the geometry.


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

I have a 2018 SJ 6Fattie. How can I know if it has the new yoke? The geometry charts are the same as 2017.

I definitely noticed more pedal strikes from my previous bike but it is not unmanageable. I'm 6'5" with long legs so I would like to get the 175 mm cranks but I don't want the pedal strikes to be out of control. I think I'll wait until I replace the rear tire to a 3".


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

Wanting to go to 29+ on my 17 Stumpy....
Will a 2.8 29 tire fit in the rear?
New wheel set or just new rims?

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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I believe the consensus was 29x2.6 fits no problem but I don't personally recall whether 2.8 has been mentioned? Would be cool if it did. Looking forward to hearing from somebody's first hand experience.

As for rims or wheelsets, not sure what your asking there?


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

No need,in my mind,for two wheel sets. May just get new rims laced to my hubs.

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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

2old said:


> Wanting to go to 29+ on my 17 Stumpy....
> Will a 2.8 29 tire fit in the rear?


I'm running 29x2.6 Nobby Nics front an rear on my 2017 Stumpy 29/6F. The tires measure 2.55" wide on 29mm inner width at 16psi. The fit is "close", with about 6mm clearance all around. Don't think a true 29x2.8 would fit.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I am hearing rumors of a longer reach, slacker HA, steeper SA, and progressive linkage setup on the new stumpys coming out in a month. Think along the lines of the new Transition bikes....


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## wreckster (May 22, 2014)

Now where are you heading that? The 2018 stumps were just released, would be a bit counterintuitive to release a new version now.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

...and the linkage is supposedly adjustable to higher or lower BB, and able to be retrofitted to existing Stumpys.


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## JRLove (Feb 12, 2018)

What a wealth of information in here. Based on this forum I'll be making the following changes to my 6Fattie
1. HighBB yoke that extends 3mm.
2: Now that the longer yoke is in place, cut the 3mm black spacer in the shock and increase travel to 140.
3: Change the damper rod in the Fox 34s to increase travel to 160. This should balance out the HighBB yoke change and keep the geometry about the same. Maybe raise the bb a few mm.
4: I'm adding the EVOL air can to the Fox DPS shock based on the reviews here.
5: I was really looking at the Nobby Nic and Rocket Rons based on the advise, but I've had such good luck with Maxxis EXOs that I decided on High Rollers in the 27.5 x 3.0 size. I love the feel of the 3" rubber and have mostly adjusted my riding to compensate for any lack of feel and I have no issues keeping up with my riding buddies. I wouldn't dream of this if I were racing, but I ride for enjoyment and the big tires deliver the fun factor.

All parts are ordered. Just an FYI, Fox no longer has the non-Kashima EVOL air can in stock, so I ordered the 806-29-431-KIT from my local fox dealer for $85. I'll report back once I have everything installed and dialed in.

John


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Today after a year of riding the bike with 29" 2.3 tires I put on the i45 Scraper wheelset with 27.5 - 3.25/3.0 tires and did a solid ride.

The bike is fun either way, but way more fun with the bigger tires to me.

I switched because trails have dried out here and I'm in good enough shape to boss these wheels around now. But admittedly, I put a bigger cassette on, the Sunrace 11-46, which runs like a champ for me.









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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

JRLove said:


> What a wealth of information in here. Based on this forum I'll be making the following changes to my 6Fattie
> 1. HighBB yoke that extends 3mm.
> 2: Now that the longer yoke is in place, cut the 3mm black spacer in the shock and increase travel to 140.
> 3: Change the damper rod in the Fox 34s to increase travel to 160. This should balance out the HighBB yoke change and keep the geometry about the same. Maybe raise the bb a few mm.
> ...


I've done everything your doing and took it a step more by going with 170mm cranks. Pedal strikes are almost non-existant. I run Maxxis 2.8 tires and the bike is just a blast to ride more than ever. You'll like the changes.


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

which crank did you switch to? I want to switch before nice weather hits.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

c41xracer said:


> which crank did you switch to? I want to switch before nice weather hits.


I used Race Face Next SL's and a Wheels Mfg BB (angular contact bearings) Pending your budget you could run Turbines or if you want larger bearings you could use Affects (24mm spindle vs 30mm)


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## JRLove (Feb 12, 2018)

This thread has lots of talk about how the highbb yoke changes the geometry and how the 160 fork changes geometry. I didn’t read about anyone that had done both until your post. I have some questions:

Did you measure the gain in height from both changes?
Do they the two changes offset each other keeping the geo about the same?
Did you clip off the black 3mm spacer to increase the travel on the backend?
Do the 170 pedals feel much different?

Thanks,
John


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

I did not measure I went with the ride & feel the difference method (not so scientific but real world riding anyhow) and I also did things in different stages I did not do them all at once. 
I did the fork air shaft first (yoke was not available yet) it raised the front enough to make it wonder a bit on the steeps. I dealt with it because the yoke was on back order. When the yoke became available (claimed 3mm longer and 6mm higher BB) I did that and the Evol can together. It balanced the bike out to where it felt stock. Front end did not wonder any longer and pedal strikes were 60% less (guess-timation but quite noticeable) than stock.

I still had a few more than I thought I should so I went with the 170mm cranks and it's amazing what another 5mm did. The only thing I noticed slightly is that I was spinning a little bit more through out the gear range. Wasn't a bad or annoying thing IMO.

The bike handles the way I want it to and I'm happy. The the big "S" spec's all the 2018 Stumpy's with 170's now. I might even go back to the 150mm air shaft just to see how it handles with a little steeper HTA.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Does anyone want an offset bushing?
It fits the 2016 Stumpjumper and possibly other bikes.
This should work similarly to the longer yoke for those who want a taller bottom bracket if installed in the lengthening position.

Free to whomever asks first.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

ac1000 said:


> Does anyone want an offset bushing?
> It fits the 2016 Stumpjumper and possibly other bikes.
> This should work similarly to the longer yoke for those who want a taller bottom bracket if installed in the lengthening position.
> 
> Free to whomever asks first.


I'll try it. RockShox? Do you know its size?


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

Oh My Sack! said:


> I'll try it. RockShox? Do you know its size?


As far as I know it will fit any standard size Rockshock, fox, xfusion whatever.
I tried it on a rockshox rt3 and it fit.
Pm your address if you want it.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

PM coming your way!


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

ac1000 said:


> Does anyone want an offset bushing?
> It fits the 2016 Stumpjumper and possibly other bikes.
> This should work similarly to the longer yoke for those who want a taller bottom bracket if installed in the lengthening position.
> 
> Free to whomever asks first.


Gone!


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Has anybody replace their headset bearings on the 2016 FSR Comp frame and if so, where did you find those bearings since their dimensions are different then regular 1 1/8 1 1/2 measurements.
Went to my LBS yesterday to replace the lower bearing since I'm getting some wobble and they couldn't get one of their bearings to properly fit since it's also a 45 degree. We tried all sort of ways to eliminate the wobble but just couldn't and this is with the original bearings. Did find the upper bearing on the web but not the lower one.

Thanks


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## JRLove (Feb 12, 2018)

The 40x52x7 45 45 bearing is hard to find with the broad top 45 degree face. The broad face makes more contact with the frame. 
Ritchey WCS Headset Bearing | Chain Reaction Cycles

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/ritchey-wcs-headset-bearing/rp-prod62161


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks for the info, purchase the bottom one. Only had 3 left.


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## brianw7 (Nov 18, 2010)

Does anyone have the stock code from the FOX DPS rear shock that came on the 2016 6Fattie expert? It's the 4-digit code on the body of the shock. My shock is at FOX right now and trying to determine how it was originally set-up - the one I have right now is not stock. Thanks!

Also - does anyone know how to decode the letters?


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## Luckyluc (Dec 20, 2015)

*Sunrace 11 46 with xd driver where did you buy it?*



Jack Burns said:


> Today after a year of riding the bike with 29" 2.3 tires I put on the i45 Scraper wheelset with 27.5 - 3.25/3.0 tires and did a solid ride.
> 
> The bike is fun either way, but way more fun with the bigger tires to me.
> 
> ...


Where did you buy the cassette? I can only find them for Shimano.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> Maybe you 6fattie aficionados can help me. I hate this bike, but I'm trying really hard to like it.


Update - I never resolved my issues with this bike, and sold it this weekend to a newer (beginner rider); he was stoked about all this "plus stuff" he's been reading about. I just bit my lip and kept my opinions to myself, I'm sure he'll enjoy it because he doesn't know any better.

Thanks to all for the advice earlier.

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## phreeky (Sep 25, 2015)

blaklabl said:


> Update - I never resolved my issues with this bike, and sold it this weekend to a newer (beginner rider); he was stoked about all this "plus stuff" he's been reading about. I just bit my lip and kept my opinions to myself, I'm sure he'll enjoy it because he doesn't know any better.
> 
> Thanks to all for the advice earlier.


What are you riding now?


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## Jack Burns (Nov 18, 2005)

Luckyluc said:


> Where did you buy the cassette? I can only find them for Shimano.


Bought two of these on eBay from Taiwan at least 1.5 years ago. There's a thread about these cassettes somewhere here.

It works fine. I don't know for a fact, but the weight is probably on par. The really like the alloy spider on these. Plus they came in two colors; red and black.

On today's ride I was calling it the poor man's Eagle set-up: The Budgie.

The gear ratio steps feel natural to me.










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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

phreeky said:


> What are you riding now?


I have both a Santa Cruz 5010c and a '98 Rockhopper rigid SS...and I spend most of my time on the Rockhopper. No comparison in the miles:smiles ratio.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Does anybody happen to know the bearing sizes on the Specialized hub? Mine are beyond wasted. Trying to only tear it apart once and want to get them ordered. Thanks!


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

Has anyone tried a Rockshox dual position fork on their stumpy? There are some deals on a 160/130 mm Lyrik and Pike. In theory it sounds good, 130 for climbing and 160 for descending. But is it a bother to be switching back and forth all the time?

Any personal experience?


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Friend of mine got a 2018 Stumpy 27.5, which has the longer rear travel (150mm vs. 135) and shorter chainstay (420mm vs 437mm) and he put 2.8 Butchers on it with no clearance issues whatsoever.


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## mblock (Jan 22, 2007)

JRLove said:


> This thread has lots of talk about how the highbb yoke changes the geometry and how the 160 fork changes geometry. I didn't read about anyone that had done both until your post. I have some questions:
> 
> Did you measure the gain in height from both changes?
> Do they the two changes offset each other keeping the geo about the same?
> ...


I just did both changes. I measured the fork/head angle and BB height setup stock, then changed to the longer yoke. BB height came up about 1/4" and the head angle steepened by about 0.9 degrees. Then I installed the 160mm airshaft. BB height came up to just over 3/8" higher than stock and the head angle slackened back a bit but is still about 0.3 degrees steeper than stock.


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## JRLove (Feb 12, 2018)

I ended up doing both also. I didn’t do the exact measurements that you did, but I measured about 10mm gain in height. I’m slowly learning to trust that my pedals won’t bang into everything and tbh the handling seems about the same. I also installed the Evo air can and just set the sag to the recommended settings, which makes the bike ride more aggressively than before. I like the ride but may experiment with the sag. I’m hoping increasing the sag won’t lose too much B.B. height.


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## sooners86 (Jun 12, 2015)

2old said:


> Bought my '17 stumpy 6 a year ago. Hated it and hardly rode it. Did the rear yoke mod on the Stumpy.....love it. This is how the bike should handle. Hardly any pedal strikes and none of those even note worthy. Climbs better but not great. Handles better. Doesn't feel like your riding a chopper. Corners better. My ride was on a rocky trail that I wouldn't ride the Stumpy on any more. Rode it like I was on my Stache. Couple times I made the "face" knowing I was about to smash a pedal and nothing. Stache may collect dust now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


So does the yoke make it slacker and more dh friendly or the opposite? I'm getting a 2017 Carbon 6fattie stumpy with a 150 yari fork and 135 monarch rear. I want to upgrade to the monarch rc3 debonair and fox 36 160mm fork. I'd be interested in a mod yoke if it made it more dh friendly. I plan to run maxxis 2.8 tires on it.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

sooners86 said:


> So does the yoke make it slacker and more dh friendly or the opposite? I'm getting a 2017 Carbon 6fattie stumpy with a 150 yari fork and 135 monarch rear. I want to upgrade to the monarch rc3 debonair and fox 36 160mm fork. I'd be interested in a mod yoke if it made it more dh friendly. I plan to run maxxis 2.8 tires on it.


It makes it about half a degree steeper, so it makes it less DH friendly (although I haven't really noticed an issue), but moving to the 160 fork will compensate for that.

The 2.8 Maxxis tires will put you further into pedal strike territory, but the yoke and 160 fork should just about exactly compensate for that. (You could also get a shorter crank and forgo the yoke, which sounds more your speed.)


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## sooners86 (Jun 12, 2015)

phride said:


> It makes it about half a degree steeper, so it makes it less DH friendly (although I haven't really noticed an issue), but moving to the 160 fork will compensate for that.
> 
> The 2.8 Maxxis tires will put you further into pedal strike territory, but the yoke and 160 fork should just about exactly compensate for that. (You could also get a shorter crank and forgo the yoke, which sounds more your speed.)


Ya I've thought about getting a 5mm shorter crank. I wonder how much that will hurt my climbing ability on trail.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

sooners86 said:


> Ya I've thought about getting a 5mm shorter crank. I wonder how much that will hurt my climbing ability on trail.


Not much. I'm going that way on my next crank, along with an oval ring to preserve torque at the weak points of my pedal stroke, so I can go for smaller tires.

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## SLCBKR22 (Apr 1, 2011)

Just got the 18 SJ Expert 6fattie. I have been riding 29 for several years and i'm surprised by how sluggish the 6fattie feels compared to the exact same bike in 29 (a friend has it's twin). I have a little buyers remorse about going 6fattie, but can't afford to buy a 29 wheelset/tires/cassette after dropping all of that on the new whip. I'm considering just putting 2.5 tires on my i38mm rims, but wasn't sure how narrow I can go with the wide wheels without risking damage. Also, after reading most of the thread, it sounds like I may have issues with a lower BB after doiong that. Just looking for a budget solution to give the bike more 'playability' and not so sluggish. 
Any advice about how narrow a tire I can put on those wheels & get away with it? Also, can somebody please explain to me (like i'm a child) what the yoke modification is/does? 

Most of my riding is hardpack but I make 3-4 moab trips per year. I like to climb faster than the 6fattie allows. Do I just need to suck it up & get a 29 wheelset to get the 'feel' i'm looking for?

TIA for any insight.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

29mm ID rims aren't too wide for a 2.4, let alone anything approximating a plus tire.

You could go for faster rolling tires (e.g., Rocket Ron) without changing tire size. You could also downsize to a 2.8 (provided that's the true size) and only lose 5mm of BB height. The bike is already a low rider, but you can get that 5mm back with the yoke, which raises the bb ~7-8mm. It also steepens the front end by half a degree, but I haven't had an issue with that, and I'm no shrinking Violet on the downs.

You can also just swap out the rear tire and see how that works for you, since that's where most of your rolling resistance occurs. 

Your riding style will determine what works best for you. At present, I'm leaning toward getting 2.8 Recons next, but I'll be getting shorter cranks at the same time, because I really like the increased ground clearance that comes with the new yoke for the chunky terrain that I prefer. (It also is closer to a 2.7 than a 2.8, so that's another 3mm of BB height.)



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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

SLCBKR22 said:


> Just got the 18 SJ Expert 6fattie. I have been riding 29 for several years and i'm surprised by how sluggish the 6fattie feels compared to the exact same bike in 29 (a friend has it's twin). I have a little buyers remorse about going 6fattie, but can't afford to buy a 29 wheelset/tires/cassette after dropping all of that on the new whip. I'm considering just putting 2.5 tires on my i38mm rims, but wasn't sure how narrow I can go with the wide wheels without risking damage. Also, after reading most of the thread, it sounds like I may have issues with a lower BB after doiong that. Just looking for a budget solution to give the bike more 'playability' and not so sluggish.
> Any advice about how narrow a tire I can put on those wheels & get away with it? Also, can somebody please explain to me (like i'm a child) what the yoke modification is/does?
> 
> Most of my riding is hardpack but I make 3-4 moab trips per year. I like to climb faster than the 6fattie allows. Do I just need to suck it up & get a 29 wheelset to get the 'feel' i'm looking for?
> ...


Sell your wheelset with tires and get a 29 set. You won't end up spending much extra money if you're smart about it.
If you don't you'll keep spending money on the 650b setup trying different tires and eventually new rims and never be happy with it.
I'd cut my losses before pouring money into something you don't like.
You're not crazy to not love the 650b+ setup. Not everyone does.

The yoke is longer than the stock yoke.
It basically extends your suspension up a bit.
The top out will be a smidge higher and the bottom out will be higher also.
The travel used won't change though.


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## SLCBKR22 (Apr 1, 2011)

ac1000 said:


> Sell your wheelset with tires and get a 29 set. You won't end up spending much extra money if you're smart about it.
> If you don't you'll keep spending money on the 650b setup trying different tires and eventually new rims and never be happy with it.
> I'd cut my losses before pouring money into something you don't like.
> You're not crazy to not love the 650b+ setup. Not everyone does.
> ...


Maybe I just need to give it more than a handfull of rides, but I'm thinking you are probably right. I had already sent an email to Specialized asking about a wheel swap since there is only about 50 miles on them, but I never heard back. Probably just need to do like you said & sell them with the tires. I love the bike; the suspension & drivetrain are a huge upgrade from my 15' Comp SJ, just wish it had that snap of the 29


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

SLCBKR22 said:


> Maybe I just need to give it more than a handfull of rides, but I'm thinking you are probably right. I had already sent an email to Specialized asking about a wheel swap since there is only about 50 miles on them, but I never heard back. Probably just need to do like you said & sell them with the tires. I love the bike; the suspension & drivetrain are a huge upgrade from my 15' Comp SJ, just wish it had that snap of the 29


Look on the used market. I bought a set of 29ers that were a brand new take off of a Santa Cruz Hightower LT for $200. He even threw in the tires (Maxxis DHR II) because he didn't like them. Just had to throw on a cassette and rotors, but if your selling your set you could just swap them. Good deals are out there.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

SLCBKR22 said:


> Just got the 18 SJ Expert 6fattie. I have been riding 29 for several years and i'm surprised by how sluggish the 6fattie feels compared to the exact same bike in 29 (a friend has it's twin). I have a little buyers remorse about going 6fattie, but can't afford to buy a 29 wheelset/tires/cassette after dropping all of that on the new whip. I'm considering just putting 2.5 tires on my i38mm rims, but wasn't sure how narrow I can go with the wide wheels without risking damage. Also, after reading most of the thread, it sounds like I may have issues with a lower BB after doiong that. Just looking for a budget solution to give the bike more 'playability' and not so sluggish.
> Any advice about how narrow a tire I can put on those wheels & get away with it? Also, can somebody please explain to me (like i'm a child) what the yoke modification is/does?
> 
> Most of my riding is hardpack but I make 3-4 moab trips per year. I like to climb faster than the 6fattie allows. Do I just need to suck it up & get a 29 wheelset to get the 'feel' i'm looking for?
> ...


Yeah, generally just suck it up.  Seriously though the original spec Control casing Purgatory 3.0's up front with the Ground Control 3.0's in the rear felt a lot quicker that my new pair of Grid casing purgatory 3.0s front and rear. I replaced the originals because they weeped sealant like crazy through the thin sidewalls.

Overall, I'd say they just take some getting used to. Also, Tire pressure make a big difference in rolling resistance on these tires. Even a 1 PSI change can be felt.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

I can only imagine the pedal strike problem by going smaller than 27.5 x 3.0. With those tires it was already like walking on the rocks before I just went back to 29". If you want faster, just go to a 29" wheel and you can go up to 2.6" width on rear and even larger on front (though wider is slower). I settled on 29 x 2.5.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I am looking at a set og new wheels. Thinking about adding a 29" i35 set. Will they fit with a 2.6 tire? I already have a set of Nobby Nics in 29x2.6


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I am looking at a set og new wheels. Thinking about adding a 29" i35 set. Will they fit with a 2.6 tire? I already have a set of Nobby Nics in 29x2.6


Same direction I intend to go and I believe the intel I have to be good that they will fit without issue. I'm waiting to order the same tires from across the pond. Sure wish they'd build a Soft Addix in that NN for the front. I may try a soft Magic Mary, though.


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## Coach417 (Jul 13, 2007)

I have a 16' Stumpy 29er (non boost) and run a 3" Ranger up front (non boost 34 29er) and have run Fat B Nimble and NN 2.6 in the rear. That is on a LB i32. Both fit fine for me, but we don't ride muddy conditions. My buddies 6fattie (boost) has a little more clearance.


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## TooManyToyz (Feb 23, 2007)

Slyham said:


> Has anyone tried a Rockshox dual position fork on their stumpy? There are some deals on a 160/130 mm Lyrik and Pike. In theory it sounds good, 130 for climbing and 160 for descending. But is it a bother to be switching back and forth all the time?
> 
> Any personal experience?


That's the setup I had on my '08 Enduro and loved it. If I could find a decent deal on the 2018 Pike RTC3 dual position I'd give it a try.


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## TooManyToyz (Feb 23, 2007)

*Rear shock options*

I have the 2017 Pro which came with the Ohlins. The "P" mode does almost nothing. I've considered trying to find the Rockshox off the Expert as a replacement. I need something with more of a climbing mode that will keep the bike from sitting so deep into the rear suspension when the grade gets over 8%.

What shocks does everyone recommend? Does the Bike Yoke for Stumpjumper 2016-2018 also fit the 6Fattie?


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

TooManyToyz said:


> What shocks does everyone recommend? Does the Bike Yoke for Stumpjumper 2016-2018 also fit the 6Fattie?


Yes it does. I have one. I am selling my bike yoke with a Monarch Plus RC3 with avalanche tune and only 10 hours on it. PM if interested.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

I had an issue with my Monarch RC3 so I put a Monarch Plus RT3 Debonair that I had. Rockshox sent me a brand RC3 because they couldn't figure out what was causing the "klunk" in my bad one. Sorry, I'm not selling it as I like t have an immediate back-up but I just wanted to say that the RC3 is a pretty damned good shock on that frame, IMO. Mine performed very well even without any special tuning. It just had a "klunk" at top stroke in 'lock-out' or climb mode so I squawked the issue and that was the result.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I ended up with Ibis 938 wheels. I got a great deal on them. 34 internal. I have some NN 2.6 that have been around since last spring.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Super excited to try them.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

A question which I'm sure have answers somewhere in this forum already. I have the 2017 6fattie Comp Carbon. Can you fit a Debonair on the Monarch shock? If possible what would change in behaviour?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

The Debonair can will fit, but it's like putting lipstick on a pig.

Get a Manitou McLeod and you'll be MUCH happier 
(see the McLeod thread in the Shocks/Suspension forum)

It will cost more as you'll also need to get a yoke adaptor from Bike Yoke to fit a standard shock, but it's well worth it. It will ride like a different bike.

You can also add a remote to the McLeod which is nice to have.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

levity said:


> The Debonair can will fit, but it's like putting lipstick on a pig.
> 
> Get a Manitou McLeod and you'll be MUCH happier
> (see the McLeod thread in the Shocks/Suspension forum)
> ...


Have you tried it?
Which Debonair can will fit?


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

ac1000 said:


> Have you tried it?
> Which Debonair can will fit?


Good questions! My reply was a bit flippant - I definitely overstated things and apologize. Mrs levity was considering using the Debonair can a while back based on what others had posted about it fitting. However, she were disappointed with the Debonair on another bike and never ended up trying it on the Stumpy. Thus I can not say with certainty that it will fit. We have both since installed McLeod shocks, and these are a huge improvement over Monarch and Fox shocks we previously used.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Ok. I thought debonair could be a quickfix for a bit firmer supension. It bottoms out, and if you go fimer you lose the small bumb sensitivity alltogether. The pedal bob is reduced alot if you have the saddle all the way forward, but that is also one factor. The Manitou looks good though.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The best thing you can do is get your shock revalved. I nevere understood why people just buy new shocks. You need to have the shock tuned to your weight and riding styler to get the most out of it.


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> The best thing you can do is get your shock revalved. I nevere understood why people just buy new shocks. You need to have the shock tuned to your weight and riding styler to get the most out of it.


Yes, this, or eat more or less until you weigh 175#s geared-up and then ride moderately aggressively, and then the manufacturer's default settings usually work just fine.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Exactly. My point was that people just throw away shocks when the can be tuned. I just think people dont realize this is an option.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Thanks for the tips. I'll just load 20 pounds of gear on me.


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

bpd131 said:


> Yes it does. I have one. I am selling my bike yoke with a Monarch Plus RC3 with avalanche tune and only 10 hours on it. PM if interested.


Why are you selling? What did you not like about it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

levity said:


> The Debonair can will fit, but it's like putting lipstick on a pig.
> 
> Get a Manitou McLeod and you'll be MUCH happier
> (see the McLeod thread in the Shocks/Suspension forum)
> ...


What characteristics of the McLeod do you like over Rockshox?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

*Mannitou McLeod shock*



CGrr said:


> What characteristics of the McLeod do you like over Rockshox?


There's a 16 page thread in the Suspension forum on the McLeod here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/manitou-mcleod-rear-shock-956836.html

and a couple of reviews here:

https://www.bikerumor.com/2014/04/1...massive-adjustability-in-modern-air-platform/

Just In â€" Manitou McLeod Rear Shock and King Can

I've had a Fox DPS Shock on the Stumpy and a Monarch on a Levo. They were "ok" in absorbing hits, but I could never seem to adjust them (pressure, spacers, negative air cans) to feel plush or planted on rough stuff while maintaining support and yet giving full travel. After reading about the Manitou McLeod I decided to try it rather than send the Fox/Monarch for revalving.

The McLeod took the suspension to another level. Almost like a new bike. It was smoother, with a well damped, planted feeling giving more traction and control. It also gave more midstroke support and got rid of the wallowing previously experienced. Plush but still firm.

I use a Timber Bell on the handlebars, and discovered that it also acts as a sort of poor man's Shock Wiz. After mounting the McLeod shock the bell was much quieter! Smoothing out the rear suspension quieted the front end as well!

The McLeod was such an improvement that I wondered how the bike would perform with "skinny" 29er tires instead of the 27.5x 2.8 or 3.0 tires I usually run. I moved a set of 29er wheels (Light Bicycle, 30mm inner width) with 29x2.6 Nobby Nics from another bike over to the Stumpy. The bike has a different feel (taller with more roll-over sensation) but handles great. With the McLeod shock I don't feel the loss of cushioning I previously experienced when I tried narrower tires. The wagon wheels should help avoid pedal strikes.


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## CGrr (Aug 30, 2010)

Thanks for the write up. Did the shock mounting hardware from the Fox transfer over the Manitou?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

CGrr said:


> Why are you selling? What did you not like about it?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have two set up the same


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

levity said:


> There's a 16 page thread in the Suspension forum on the McLeod here:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/manitou-mcleod-rear-shock-956836.html
> 
> ...


Levity
Which model (size) do we need for the Stumpy, mine is 2016 and do we need different bushings/sleeves?
Thanks


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

Nash04 said:


> Levity
> Which model (size) do we need for the Stumpy, mine is 2016 and do we need different bushings/sleeves? Thanks


The 190mmx50mm McLeod fits the 2016-17 Stumpy and the Levo, but you need to replace the Specialized yoke with one from Bike Yoke to mount a standard double-eyelet shock. The Bike Yoke is designed to maintain the original bottom bracket height. The extra 2mm shock travel will provide 5-6mm extra wheel rear movement so max travel becomes ~140mm. Still plenty of clearance for 27.5x3.0 or 29x2.6 tires.

No extra mouunting hardware is required. I pushed the top eyelet bushing out of the McLeod and just moved the DU bushings and spacers from the Fox shock to the McLeod. You use the same bolt to hold it in the frame. The lower eyelet bushing on the McLeod fits the Bike Yoke bolt fine. All in all, an easy swap.

The McLeod has a Incremental Platform Adjuster (IPA) that uses a small lever with 4 detent positions. We added Manitou's remote kit and a 3-position Fox remote lever ($38 on fleabay) that provides firm, mid and no platform options. We've become addicted to the remote since it provides quick on-the-fly changes.

Here's a pic of the shock with remote installed.









The left grip area looks sorta "busy" with the remote lever but works great.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

levity said:


> The 190mmx50mm McLeod fits the 2016-17 Stumpy and the Levo, but you need to replace the Specialized yoke with one from Bike Yoke to mount a standard double-eyelet shock. The Bike Yoke is designed to maintain the original bottom bracket height. The extra 2mm shock travel will provide 5-6mm extra wheel rear movement so max travel becomes ~140mm. Still plenty of clearance for 27.5x3.0 or 29x2.6 tires.
> 
> No extra mouunting hardware is required. I pushed the top eyelet bushing out of the McLeod and just moved the DU bushings and spacers from the Fox shock to the McLeod. You use the same bolt to hold it in the frame. The lower eyelet bushing on the McLeod fits the Bike Yoke bolt fine. All in all, an easy swap.
> 
> ...


Sweet! Thanks


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Hey!

I recently snagged myself a Carbon Pro 6Fattie that has been upgraded with brand new 29" Carbon Roval Traverse's and 2.6" Schwalbe Nobby Nics by the previous owner. I'd like to go back to 27.5+ and swap back out for the '16/17 Factory 6Fattie 38mm inner width wheels. * Is there anyone here interested in trading their 6Fattie setup for my Carbon 29" setup?*

If not, is there any other boost wheel that comes in carbon w/ the DT swiss 350 engagement?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

The NN 29x2.6 just rocks.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> The NN 29x2.6 just rocks.


I know, but I'm looking to put it back to stock. the2.6NN are awesome, however I have more fun with and prefer 27.5x3.0


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I get it. It just depends on terrain. I found the 3.0 to be to vauge and sketchey on our trails. The 29x2.6 are so much faster and predicible. We have a lot of loose over hard with gravel. Other trails I do understand the 3.0. Glad to have both at my disposal. These things fly! (29×2.6). I am a bit overly enthused at the moment!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I just put some 27.5+ 2.8 Butchers on mine. They roll way faster than my friend who has 29er 2.6 Butchers... much to both of our surprise.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Anyone have issues pinch-flatting their 650b x 3.0 specialized tires (using the 30mm ID carbon rims - running tubeless.)? I am a 160 lb rider on some rocky, technical trails. I pinch flatted the ground control control casing at 15 PSI so I upped to the Purgatory Grid casings front/rear and was running the rear at 14 PSI and pinch-flatted again. 

Does specialized still take tire returns? I am running their tires on their rims on their bike and their recommended settings and only have 6 or so rides on the latest tire. This is getting expensive at $60 a pop. (says the guy with the s-works!)

Anyway, I'll start to air up more for that trail, but then I'm defeating the purpose of the larger softer tires....


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

MisterClean said:


> Anyone have issues pinch-flatting their 650b x 3.0 specialized tires (using the 30mm ID carbon rims - running tubeless.)? I am a 160 lb rider on some rocky, technical trails. I pinch flatted the ground control control casing at 15 PSI so I upped to the Purgatory Grid casings front/rear and was running the rear at 14 PSI and pinch-flatted again.
> 
> Does specialized still take tire returns? I am running their tires on their rims on their bike and their recommended settings and only have 6 or so rides on the latest tire. This is getting expensive at $60 a pop. (says the guy with the s-works!)
> 
> Anyway, I'll start to air up more for that trail, but then I'm defeating the purpose of the larger softer tires....


I haven't had any problems. I'm a 210 lbs rider in rocky AZ. I did tear a sidewall but that was after 9 months of use.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

MisterClean said:


> Anyone have issues pinch-flatting their 650b x 3.0 specialized tires (using the 30mm ID carbon rims - running tubeless.)? I am a 160 lb rider on some rocky, technical trails. I pinch flatted the ground control control casing at 15 PSI so I upped to the Purgatory Grid casings front/rear and was running the rear at 14 PSI and pinch-flatted again.
> 
> Does specialized still take tire returns? I am running their tires on their rims on their bike and their recommended settings and only have 6 or so rides on the latest tire. This is getting expensive at $60 a pop. (says the guy with the s-works!)
> 
> Anyway, I'll start to air up more for that trail, but then I'm defeating the purpose of the larger softer tires....


Specifically why I'm trying to trade 29 carbon for the 38mm 650b+. Just a touch more volume than the 30 650b.


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

Sorry, didn't see the specific mention of the rim size. I'm running the 38mm rims. 

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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

MisterClean said:


> Anyone have issues pinch-flatting their 650b x 3.0 specialized tires (using the 30mm ID carbon rims - running tubeless.)? I am a 160 lb rider on some rocky, technical trails. I pinch flatted the ground control control casing at 15 PSI so I upped to the Purgatory Grid casings front/rear and was running the rear at 14 PSI and pinch-flatted again.
> 
> Does specialized still take tire returns? I am running their tires on their rims on their bike and their recommended settings and only have 6 or so rides on the latest tire. This is getting expensive at $60 a pop. (says the guy with the s-works!)
> 
> Anyway, I'll start to air up more for that trail, but then I'm defeating the purpose of the larger softer tires....


14 psi is super low on the rear tire - I would either bump it to at least 17-18 or put in a Cushcore if you want to keep it that low.

EDIT- Had to double check recommended settings per Specialized: You are running pressure for someone who weighs 130lbs, I think if you bumped it up for more technical terrain you would be fine.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

MisterClean said:


> Anyone have issues pinch-flatting their 650b x 3.0 specialized tires (using the 30mm ID carbon rims - running tubeless.)? I am a 160 lb rider on some rocky, technical trails. I pinch flatted the ground control control casing at 15 PSI so I upped to the Purgatory Grid casings front/rear and was running the rear at 14 PSI and pinch-flatted again.
> 
> Does specialized still take tire returns? I am running their tires on their rims on their bike and their recommended settings and only have 6 or so rides on the latest tire. This is getting expensive at $60 a pop. (says the guy with the s-works!)
> 
> Anyway, I'll start to air up more for that trail, but then I'm defeating the purpose of the larger softer tires....


Assuming your not riding like a Bull and plowing through rock gardens....

It Sounds to me like you are burping the tire. I had a hard time getting mine to seal properly initially (alloy rims 29mm came stock on my '16 six fattie expert). I pulled out the specialized plastic rim strips and did two layers of gorilla tape. The tape can be purchased in a 1" width roll, which is very convenient. No problems since!!

At the time I was 175 pounds without gear, running 13psi front 15psi rear tire.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Been awhile since I posted but I thought this group would find this interesting. My son competed in his First Enduro the Big Creek Quick Six and used his 6 Fattie as his race bike. He ended up 5th in the junior catagory and would have been 15th in the Expert mens catagory. So if you had any doubt if the plus bike was fast enough this should help answer it.

Here is one of the more technical sections and you can see my boy on the fattie at the 2:34 mark.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

SWEET! :thumbsup:


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Finally found a newer set of 27.5" Rovals to switch back to 6fattie from 29". Those come in Thursday. Also installed the Higher BB yoke this week. I love it!!! I cannot wait until the wheels come in!


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Edited to remove bad p/n.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Just spent quite a bit of time going back through this thread. I forgot how much good info was in here. 
I still have my 2016 6Fattie Comp. Ive made a few changes to it to get it just right and it fits me like a glove. I love the geo this bike has as well. I have a question for those who put a 29er wheelset on. One of the upgrades I made was the extended yoke to raise my BB. Great Upgrade, well worth it. I was able to grab a nice set of 29er wheels and a pair of Maxxis 2.5" tires to try which are on the way. So has anyone tried the 29er wheels WITH the extended yoke or did you use it like a flip chip and put the stock one back on for the 29 setup. I'm wondering if the extended yoke with the 29er wheelset will make the bike start to feel weird. I plan on trying it both ways just to see how it feels but I'd be curious to hear any other experiences with this. 
On a side note, I jumped on my buddies 2019 Stumpy(with the new frame design) and wasn't overly impressed. To be fair it was a little small for me but the geo just felt so much different than my bike. I was also a little surprised to see Spesh still spec'ing a 29mm ID rim when they claim the bike will handle a 3.0" tire. At first I didn't think much of the "wider wheel is better debate". But I must admit after scoring a set of 45mm ID 27.5 wheels on the cheap last year, there was definitely something to be said for the wider profile. Again, I wasn't able to give the new Stumpy a proper test but after trying it, I just confirmed to myself how awesome my 2016 is and that I'm in no hurry to change. 
The only reason for the 29er wheels is purely to have options. I still absolutely love the fattie set up. 
Anyone still on their 1st gen fattie?


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## bpd131 (Oct 26, 2010)

gigrob said:


> Just spent quite a bit of time going back through this thread. I forgot how much good info was in here.
> I still have my 2016 6Fattie Comp. Ive made a few changes to it to get it just right and it fits me like a glove. I love the geo this bike has as well. I have a question for those who put a 29er wheelset on. One of the upgrades I made was the extended yoke to raise my BB. Great Upgrade, well worth it. I was able to grab a nice set of 29er wheels and a pair of Maxxis 2.5" tires to try which are on the way. So has anyone tried the 29er wheels WITH the extended yoke or did you use it like a flip chip and put the stock one back on for the 29 setup. I'm wondering if the extended yoke with the 29er wheelset will make the bike start to feel weird. I plan on trying it both ways just to see how it feels but I'd be curious to hear any other experiences with this.
> On a side note, I jumped on my buddies 2019 Stumpy(with the new frame design) and wasn't overly impressed. To be fair it was a little small for me but the geo just felt so much different than my bike. I was also a little surprised to see Spesh still spec'ing a 29mm ID rim when they claim the bike will handle a 3.0" tire. At first I didn't think much of the "wider wheel is better debate". But I must admit after scoring a set of 45mm ID 27.5 wheels on the cheap last year, there was definitely something to be said for the wider profile. Again, I wasn't able to give the new Stumpy a proper test but after trying it, I just confirmed to myself how awesome my 2016 is and that I'm in no hurry to change.
> The only reason for the 29er wheels is purely to have options. I still absolutely love the fattie set up.
> Anyone still on their 1st gen fattie?


I have the 2016 Fatty and run it with the extended yoke in both configurations, 29 and 27.5+. It's a phenomenal set up both ways.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

gigrob said:


> Just spent quite a bit of time going back through this thread. I forgot how much good info was in here.
> I still have my 2016 6Fattie Comp. Ive made a few changes to it to get it just right and it fits me like a glove. I love the geo this bike has as well. I have a question for those who put a 29er wheelset on. One of the upgrades I made was the extended yoke to raise my BB. Great Upgrade, well worth it. I was able to grab a nice set of 29er wheels and a pair of Maxxis 2.5" tires to try which are on the way. So has anyone tried the 29er wheels WITH the extended yoke or did you use it like a flip chip and put the stock one back on for the 29 setup. I'm wondering if the extended yoke with the 29er wheelset will make the bike start to feel weird. I plan on trying it both ways just to see how it feels but I'd be curious to hear any other experiences with this.
> On a side note, I jumped on my buddies 2019 Stumpy(with the new frame design) and wasn't overly impressed. To be fair it was a little small for me but the geo just felt so much different than my bike. I was also a little surprised to see Spesh still spec'ing a 29mm ID rim when they claim the bike will handle a 3.0" tire. At first I didn't think much of the "wider wheel is better debate". But I must admit after scoring a set of 45mm ID 27.5 wheels on the cheap last year, there was definitely something to be said for the wider profile. Again, I wasn't able to give the new Stumpy a proper test but after trying it, I just confirmed to myself how awesome my 2016 is and that I'm in no hurry to change.
> The only reason for the 29er wheels is purely to have options. I still absolutely love the fattie set up.
> Anyone still on their 1st gen fattie?


I have the same bike 2017 Stumpy 6Fattie Comp. I actually installed the Yoke before I went from my 29" w/ 2.6" NN swap back to 650B+. It does indeed help the BB height. The raised height actually was a plus for me in every aspect even with the 29". Just make sure you adjust your sag at the front AND rear after you do the yoke upgrade. I also swapped to a high rise bar. I only rode this way for about 4 days as I prefer plus and albeit feeling great, eliminating pedal strikes, and being REALLY FAST, I just couldn't get hip to 29" even with 2.6" (That was my second 29" bike experience). It's just not as fun to me. The bike handled well but I didn't have that invincible feeling I have with + bikes. I ended up going back to a Carbon 38ID wheel and trying out 2.8"s and the bike is unstoppable. Especially on the DH stints. I LOVE this bike. I'm waiting on a set of Maxxis HRII's in 3.0 to slap on next week. I'm pumped. Here's a pic with the DHF/DHRII combo on the Carbon 38's.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

I have 29" 2.6 Rekons and 2.5 DHF depending on terrain. Standard yoke and no pedalstrikes. Kept original 27.5+ for snow and for the day I will sell the bike.


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

Still on my 2016 here (bought around August 2015). Obviously bar/stem swap to wider/shorter. Evol air can on rear shock. Brakes are now Shimano Zees. I also went to Butcher 2.8's on the Roval 38mm rims (lower bottom braket) and have much more control and precise handling. The only real reason I would switch to a new bike is the geo on the Stumpjumper EVO... unfortunately that may be a while.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

The only bike I would ever consider over this right now would be the Specialized Enduro.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

Good info. Thanks guys. Also, in the 27.5+ setup I’m running 14/16 F/R which is just plain awesome. I’m about 210lbs ready to ride. Rocky, rooty New England conditions. Tire pressure? I was thinking of just adding 10psi to each as a starting point. Am I in the ballpark?


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## RubiconDude (Aug 15, 2014)

gigrob said:


> Good info. Thanks guys. Also, in the 27.5+ setup I'm running 14/16 F/R which is just plain awesome. I'm about 210lbs ready to ride. Rocky, rooty New England conditions. Tire pressure? I was thinking of just adding 10psi to each as a starting point. Am I in the ballpark?


At 210 you'd probably like 16/19 F/R for charging over the chunk.


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## Outlier73 (Dec 23, 2015)

RubiconDude said:


> At 210 you'd probably like 16/19 F/R for charging over the chunk.


Agree - That is about my riding weight and go with those exact pressures.


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## mblock (Jan 22, 2007)

gigrob said:


> Just spent quite a bit of time going back through this thread. I forgot how much good info was in here.
> I still have my 2016 6Fattie Comp. Ive made a few changes to it to get it just right and it fits me like a glove. I love the geo this bike has as well. I have a question for those who put a 29er wheelset on. One of the upgrades I made was the extended yoke to raise my BB. Great Upgrade, well worth it. I was able to grab a nice set of 29er wheels and a pair of Maxxis 2.5" tires to try which are on the way. So has anyone tried the 29er wheels WITH the extended yoke or did you use it like a flip chip and put the stock one back on for the 29 setup. I'm wondering if the extended yoke with the 29er wheelset will make the bike start to feel weird. I plan on trying it both ways just to see how it feels but I'd be curious to hear any other experiences with this.
> On a side note, I jumped on my buddies 2019 Stumpy(with the new frame design) and wasn't overly impressed. To be fair it was a little small for me but the geo just felt so much different than my bike. I was also a little surprised to see Spesh still spec'ing a 29mm ID rim when they claim the bike will handle a 3.0" tire. At first I didn't think much of the "wider wheel is better debate". But I must admit after scoring a set of 45mm ID 27.5 wheels on the cheap last year, there was definitely something to be said for the wider profile. Again, I wasn't able to give the new Stumpy a proper test but after trying it, I just confirmed to myself how awesome my 2016 is and that I'm in no hurry to change.
> The only reason for the 29er wheels is purely to have options. I still absolutely love the fattie set up.
> Anyone still on their 1st gen fattie?


I have a 2016 comp and made the yoke swap along with a 160mm air shaft swap in the Fox 34. The air shaft change with the longer yoke brings the geometry really close to stock in terms of head angle. I prefer to run it with 29x2.6 over the plus wheels, just seems to ride better in that configuration IMO. The BB height is right around 13.5" with the 29er setup so I can pedal over just about anything. Also have more leeway in rear shock pressure setting too.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Settled in on 27.5x3.0 HRII's 3c Exo (F) and DC (R), HBB Yoke, Roval 38mm Carbon, and I LOVE IT. Only been on one big ride, but I'm rocking 18.5psi front and 19 psi rear. I'm probably 220-225 geared up and I like about 80psi in front shock (Rockshox Pike) and around 165psi in the rear shock (Ohlins) which is relatively soft for my weight but I prefer it. Picked a pretty sloppy and hot day to test... So far I'm excited to try them in the dry. Maybe better pictures later.


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## msalvatore (Mar 29, 2018)

Is the yoke everyone is referring to the one for sale on "Bikeyoke.de"?


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

msalvatore said:


> Is the yoke everyone is referring to the one for sale on "Bikeyoke.de"?


Nope. But that's an option. Specialized released a slightly longer yoke that raises the BB. They're around $55 at any Specialized dealer and referred to as a "High BB Yoke" as I recall.


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## msalvatore (Mar 29, 2018)

Thank's. I have an 18 and thought I read that it already came with the longer yoke? Also I am not too happy with the shock and was looking for options and the bike yoke from "Bikeyoke.de" would add some options.


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## c41xracer (Sep 2, 2017)

msalvatore said:


> Thank's. I have an 18 and thought I read that it already came with the longer yoke? Also I am not too happy with the shock and was looking for options and the bike yoke from "Bikeyoke.de" would add some options.


I own a '17 and even after switching out the yoke was happy with the shock and I ended up switching it out to the RC3 monarch and love it. It's nice having the option to close the shock for peddling up hills.


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## Holmstrom (Jul 22, 2018)

Hey, thanks to all that keep this thread going and informative!

Lot of words here....

I've been riding my 2016 6fattie expert since Oct. 2015 and put about 6000kms on it.
Upgrades include roval carbon 6fattie wheels, Box 35mm carbon bar and AL stem, bought a purgatory Grid for the rear and put a Maxxis HRII 3.0 on the front, and switched to an Ohlins fork (no good reason). Bought a new yoke last year but haven't installed it.

I'm still super happy with the bike. For an older, former XC racer the bike is super playful and I think made me quicker just for it's auto-correct characteristics and the confidence it gives. Not that it matters but I can easily land in the Strava top quartile on the trails I ride uphill and slightly better downhill. The bike is no slug and only limited by my fitness. At 6' and 178ish lbs I could still use to shed a few lbs.

In the past few years I've demo'd/rented some nice bikes on my various multi-day trips. 27.5+ switchblade in Santa Fe, NM. A Mach5.5 in Sedona, a SB5 and 6 in Whistler (Demo 8 for in the park) SC Hightower 27.5+ in Durango; a few highlights, but I always miss my bike.

SO now it's 2018, its been almost 3 years and my average bike lifespan is 4 years. (most often an aluminum swing arm failure) And I just signed up for the 2019 BCBR. So I'm getting the 'new bike itch'. But I'm afraid to leave my 6fattie. But I know tech moves on and the 2019 stumpys look sweet! and I keep wondering if I could go that little bit faster if I was on a bike designed around 2.6 or 2.8 width tires. I was riding the 6fattie in the Yongpyong bike park here in Korea (where I live currently) and I couldn't go quite as fast as the guys on DH bikes (even though they were just young punks). And the XC guys here in Korea are super fit because the trails here are all very steep, keeping up is tough.

So I'm considering two different paths: 1) try and upgrade the 6fattie to make it a little better uphill and downhill; or 2) buy a new bike I'll like as much (problem being the demo opportunities here in Korea are practically nil)

Considering Path 1)... It doesn't seem like the anti-squat, leverage ratio, geo (LLS, etc) and other factors have move THAT much in the last few years (reading the Linkage design website). Plus, I don't want to go faster at the expense of climbing ability (i'm not into Enduro). Maybe the 6fattie just needs an update..
My ideas from reading through this forum include: shock upgrade, modification; Switching to 2.8 Recons (I really liked them on the Switchblade); swapping drive-train to the new 1x12 XTR and 170mm cranks(lighter weight and bail-out gear); I've ruled out the 29 switch (tried it, meh. Better to get a dedicated 29er).

Considering path 2) 2019 Stumpy 27.5 and swap tire to 2.8; buy a fancy new 29 like the Stumpy, SB5.5, SC HT LT, Ripmo, Jeffsy, or something not slacker than 66.

There is no real budget on this project (who can put a price on fun on the trails) but more about improving a good situation or changing horses and hoping I'll be happier. 
In today's world of MTBs, with all the tech available, it's really hard to go wrong. I would just like to hear from the more technically astute 6fattie owners who have tinkered and understand where I'm going.
Thanks for any coherent response.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

I also really like my 2016 SJ6F and have ridden several other demo bikes on the trails but have not found a bike I like better than the one I have which so far has surprised me. Like you said, technology tends to move forward but newer isn't necessarily better.

I have a friend who just purchased a new SJ ST Expert 27.5, put 2.8 tires on it, and changed out the crank for a 170mm carbon version. He really likes the bike, he tends to ride all kinds of trails including shipping his bike out to Colorado and riding some of the best trails in the country.

My only suggestion is to see if you can get a demo on a new SJ, otherwise stick with what you got and do some upgrading. However, it's been my experience that in the long run selling the bike you have then buying something new is typically the better way to go.

The only other bike I have had my eye on that I have yet to demo is a 2018 Scott Spark or Genius, both have some nice new features, geometry, and shock setup that's different enough from my SJ6F that I'm intrigued by either of those bikes from Scott.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Has anybody cracked an alloy stumpjumper frame? My 16 is developing issues. Super bummed.


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## TNTall (Nov 7, 2016)

Specialized gave me a new frame when my Rockhopper chainstay broke.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> Has anybody cracked an alloy stumpjumper frame? My 16 is developing issues. Super bummed.


Just sayin', if you're the original owner, you should be golden. Document, photos, etc, and go see your Specialized shop warranty guy. Lifetime warranty is what put me in my current '17 Expert Carbon frame. Engage them, you'll likely have multiple options for replacement frames. Maybe you can score a new '19! That is...if you wanted one!

Post up what's happening. I'm curious to see your issue.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

On my way to dealer now.


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## tjkm (Jun 9, 2007)

You should be fine. I cracked a chain stay on a 2010 Stumpjumper Comp 29 in late 2016, and they gave me a 2016 Comp 29 with no questions asked.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

They said it is not a crack. Just paint coming off from flex. Took pics for the big S to look at. I would post pics but this antique forum still requires file sharing site. Ugh


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

I will NEVER sell this bike.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

Why?


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

If paint is coming off the bike from "flex" It seems a harbinger of doom... 😳 But I am just over catious I guess.


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> If paint is coming off the bike from "flex" It seems a harbinger of doom... 😳 But I am just over catious I guess.


I would agree with that premise. Also, the paint finish is warranted the same, IIRC. If not lifetime, you're IN the date range with that year.


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## Gonzo 1971 (Apr 9, 2013)

I did not know paint was warrantied at all!


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I did not know paint was warrantied at all!


I could be wrong, it would be a first :ihih: but I'm pretty sure when reading the warranty packet on my bike it stated that the finish was warrantied from defects and yada, yada...

It doesn't seem legit to me that a frame's finish would crack from frame flex, especially an alloy frame. I'd delve into the warranty verbiage and then contact Specialized directly. Just because some pimply-faced kid named 'Chip' down at the LBS say's "it's just from frame flex", doesn't mean it's a done deal. That wouldn't sit well with me.


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## Bdubs9 (Aug 18, 2016)

I'm almost 1.5yrs into a 2017 FSR SJ Comp 6fattie and they warranted my original "RockShox Monarch RT, Rx Trail Tune" due to some internal scarring during a rebuild service and replaced it with a Monarch RT3. Can't seem to find the orig shock to compare price/specs but am curious if folks here think this is a reasonable replacement shock and/or upgrade.

Prior to replacement I noticed lots of peddle strikes when either my rear rear shock didn't have enough pressure or my tires were light on psi. During the service they said my internal nitrogen had leaked out completely into the main chamber, so strikes were probably happening more frequently because of that. Curious if anyone has the RC3 and has any thoughts on the setup to reduce strikes. Perhaps going from 180mm cranks to 175? Or conversion to 29er? 2.8's? Anything else?

I like the 27.5 x 3 on my SJ, but have been riding my bros Jeffsy with 27.5 x 2.4 and it seemed easier to climb and more nimble. Completely different ride (also a medium vs. my large) and prob a few lbs lighter, but a blast and leaves me wondering what I can do to make my setup a bit more light/nimble and less likely to strike.

Minus the new shock everything is stock, so any upgrade recommendations based on what's likely going to need to be replaced after the 2yr mark is appreciated - https://www.specialized.com/us/en/stumpjumper-fsr-comp-6fattie/p/118413


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## 2old (Aug 31, 2015)

They replaced mine with the same shock. Better with the new/longer rear link but still got strikes. I think I would still have it if I bought a 29er and put bigger tires on it. Sold the 6Fattie to upgrade my Stache. Bought Line Pro wheels for it. At 54 I kind of miss rear suspension but the Stache is the best bike I've ever owned. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

The longer clevis link helps and is a cheap fix. It became standard on the 2018s, I believe. Shorter cranks would also help, but that costs more of course. If you are swapping cranks, you could also get an eccentric bottom bracket. Between those three changes, you'll raise the bike by 3/4s of an inch or so, which is pretty much the same as converting to 29er wheels (maybe more).

Parts numbers/links to the Wheels Mfg EBB and the longer clevis link can be found by searching this megathread.

FWIW, I'm finally getting some 29er wheels for my 2016 6Fattie, but that's more to give me flexibility with tire selection than it is making a setup that has fewer people strikes (although I will appreciate that, too). The only change I made of the ones listed above was going with the longer link.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

I also did the new "high bottom bracket" yoke on my 2016 6Fattie. It was a worthy upgrade for $60. It only took about 15 minutes to install it. 
The other change I made, which made the biggest difference both in bottom bracket height and weight, was buying a set of E13 30mm wide 29er wheels. I'm running them with Maxxis 29x2.5 tires and so far loving it. Pedal strikes are all but gone and its a pretty fun setup. I still like to have the option of the 27.5x3.0 but I really like the 29 setup. After all, these bikes were originally just a 29er frame with a wider rear triangle.
If you can score a set of 29 wheels, I think its well worth it. Pink Bike is a great source for that stuff too.


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## Bdubs9 (Aug 18, 2016)

Thanks folks, I’ll start with asking my LBS to order a “High BB S184300001” link to go with my new shock to see how it does. Then maybe cranks if needed. Finally wheels if those other fixes don’t work 👍


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## Thustlewhumber (Nov 25, 2011)

I put 2.3's on my 2016 6fattie temporarily and couldn't even pedal on concrete without striking the ground, lol. Settled on a 3.0 Purg in the front and a 2.6 Butcher in the rear. Slacks out the front a bit, still keeps it low for good handling, and keeps strikes to a minimum.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Gonzo 1971 said:


> I did not know paint was warrantied at all!


IIRC...Spesh warranties the paint for one year.

Friend of mine had some paint flake off on the dropouts of his Roubaix road bike...shop sent some pics of Spesh...and a week later...he had a new frame.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Guys, I'm looking to get rid of my Ohlins on my SJ Comp Carbon and opt for a matching Rockshox variant. Does anyone know the best options for me? Better yet, is anyone interested in trading? I'm around 220 lbs.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Meeners said:


> Guys, I'm looking to get rid of my Ohlins on my SJ Comp Carbon and opt for a matching Rockshox variant. Does anyone know the best options for me? Better yet, is anyone interested in trading? I'm around 220 lbs.


Anyone looking for a stock Ohlins STx22 for their Stumpy. I've swapped to a stock RC3 Plus. Nothing is wrong with it - I just prefered matching my Pike Fork. Let me know otherwise I'll be throwing it up on ebay soon.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Get a DVO Topaz. They make one for your specific bike. I changed from Rock Shox, and it is a perfect match. Check the thread about the Topaz to get the right settings. But the setting DVO recommended me for the shock was pretty spot on.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Yes and BTW. Don't get the Monarch that was made stock for the Stumpy. It does not work for that bike. You cannot add spacers, which you have to.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

H-akka said:


> Get a DVO Topaz. They make one for your specific bike. I changed from Rock Shox, and it is a perfect match. Check the thread about the Topaz to get the right settings. But the setting DVO recommended me for the shock was pretty spot on.





H-akka said:


> Yes and BTW. Don't get the Monarch that was made stock for the Stumpy. It does not work for that bike. You cannot add spacers, which you have to.


I appreciate the insight and I understand the DVO is a great option, but the RC3 plus works a little better for my application. Being a larger guy 235lbs butt naked I needed a shock WITHOUT the debonair or any additional tanks for positive OR negative ring spacers. The debonair doesn't work well for big guys because it's too progressive for the linkage we use for my weight. At my weight I end up blowing through the first part of the compression. Then I have to add spacers. The more spacers added with the debonair messes it up worse for me because I have to add so much pressure I can't use the deeper part of the suspension stroke. The small tank on the RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 Autosag works a lot better for me after it's been rebuilt. Also, if needed you actually use spacers with this shock but they are internal. This is all from my own personal experimentation and first hand use.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Meeners said:


> I appreciate the insight and I understand the DVO is a great option, but the RC3 plus works a little better for my application. Being a larger guy 235lbs butt naked I needed a shock WITHOUT the debonair or any additional tanks for positive OR negative ring spacers. The debonair doesn't work well for big guys because it's too progressive for the linkage we use for my weight. At my weight I end up blowing through the first part of the compression. Then I have to add spacers. The more spacers added with the debonair messes it up worse for me because I have to add so much pressure I can't use the deeper part of the suspension stroke. The small tank on the RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 Autosag works a lot better for me after it's been rebuilt. Also, if needed you actually use spacers with this shock but they are internal. This is all from my own personal experimentation and first hand use.


OK, get it. The Monarch I was referring to was the RockShox Monarch RT that came stock on some of the 6fatties. It is not good for any sized persons imo. I'm sure the Plus RC3 is great.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

H-akka said:


> Get a DVO Topaz. They make one for your specific bike. I changed from Rock Shox, and it is a perfect match. Check the thread about the Topaz to get the right settings. But the setting DVO recommended me for the shock was pretty spot on.





H-akka said:


> OK, get it. The Monarch I was referring to was the RockShox Monarch RT that came stock on some of the 6fatties. It is not good for any sized persons imo. I'm sure the Plus RC3 is great.


My mistake! That said, I retract my bid as you are 100% spot on. THAT RT shock was garbage! I jumped to conclusions.


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## shadow23 (Oct 25, 2012)

JillRide45 said:


> Here are the Yokes available for the Stumpjumper. In picture,
> 
> Left - Bike Yoke from Germany, same length as original yoke when using a 190 x 50 shock
> 
> ...


Thank you for this info. I just installed the bike yoke from Germany. I was wondering about the length. You have the answer I needed.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

I have a 18 6fattie comp (xxl) and need a little bit of help with setup.

im 6'6" so i put 175mm cranks on the day i picked it up. (low pedals!!!)

so... to raise the bb some more im thinking about 29er wheels. 338mm right now.

love the i45 27.5x3.0 on my fuse. its perfect! so i can swap back and forth if i feel like it. So i dont mind selling/trading the new roval i38mm wheels for the right 29er set.

want the widest 29er rim and tire as possible. 

i35 and 2.6" fits but can i40 and 2.8" fit? 

i dont see alot of mud in my area and happily avoid the trails when its wet. my only concern is about dynamic clearance at speed and when cornering (wheels do flex).


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

I run i34 and Rekon 2.6 or Maxxis Minion Wt 2.4 and it's fine. I would not run 2.8 rear, I don't think it will work, but you better ask somebody who tried. Pretty sure your fork can fit it tho. Seems most new bikes are i30 and 2.5 or 2.6. So I guess that's the sweet spot atm.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

3.0 or nothing at all... Fun>Everything!


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

I tried 4 shops for the Spec high bb yoke and struck out. I even dug the part number up in this thread. Is this normal lbs halfassedness?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Could be. My lbs was able to find it. And that was a few weeks ago.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Did anyone change to a non setback dropperpost? I was thinking about changing to that and maybe change to 160 mm travel on the fork just to get more slack. I am a bit concerned about the reach. But with negative flip stem and the bar rolled forward I think it might work?


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

NEastUnlmtd said:


> I tried 4 shops for the Spec high bb yoke and struck out. I even dug the part number up in this thread. Is this normal lbs halfassedness?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


I've got one that I could send your way, since I can't really see myself going back to plus from my 29 x 2.6 setup. PM me if interested.


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

H-akka said:


> Did anyone change to a non setback dropperpost? I was thinking about changing to that and maybe change to 160 mm travel on the fork just to get more slack. I am a bit concerned about the reach. But with negative flip stem and the bar rolled forward I think it might work?


YES! Big improvement IMO. (edit) I went with the PNW non Setback in 170mm on my Stumpy. I realized I threw a KS Lev in 150mm on my Hardtail.


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

Thanks. I can't really use more than 160 mm as that will slam the post. Think a cheapish 150 mm is good enough. Brand-x or KS Lev it will be. Did you also run a 160 mm fork?


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

H-akka said:


> Thanks. I can't really use more than 160 mm as that will slam the post. Think a cheapish 150 mm is good enough. Brand-x or KS Lev it will be. Did you also run a 160 mm fork?


Don't forget about PNW as they make a 30.9. That's what I have in 170mm. They have great droppers as well.

No I saw no need for raising the front. I run the stock 150mm RC Pike. I actually like the fork and I run it with two spacers at 110psi. I'm approximately 220lbs w/o gear and it worked so well for me I matched up with an RC3 plus shock in the rear. The simplicity works for me. I took off the Ohlins I used to have. Somehow the suspension that has no low speed compression works just as good as my more intricate suspended bikes. I love it.

I tell you what I DID do though. I run a 40mm stem with 30 degree rise AND a 30mm riser bar that is 810mm. That for me made the best difference for my reach and height. I also went with 165mm cranks. I'm 6'0" for reference. The bike feels like it was made for me now.


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## gigrob (Sep 10, 2015)

NEastUnlmtd said:


> I tried 4 shops for the Spec high bb yoke and struck out. I even dug the part number up in this thread. Is this normal lbs halfassedness?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Sure is. I had a friend who tried to buy one from the same shop I got mine just a couple of weeks later. They kind of just grinned at her and said, "Ya, that part doesn't exist." Then sent her on her way. I guess it depends on who's behind the counter that day.


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## NEastUnlmtd (Aug 25, 2016)

gigrob said:


> Sure is. I had a friend who tried to buy one from the same shop I got mine just a couple of weeks later. They kind of just grinned at her and said, "Ya, that part doesn't exist." Then sent her on her way. I guess it depends on who's behind the counter that day.


The shop where I wrote a check for $3,500 when I bought the bike wouldn't help at all due to dropping Specialized. Noted. Another shop, who were super cool, emailed them a link, said they contacted their rep and it doesn't exist and that this thread is referring to the BikeYoke product. Well, they are the experts!
The problem is I would rather ride than wrench and I have a lack of skills/TIME so I end up shelling out $4-500 for poor customer service, driving an hour with follow ups over silliness. Of course there are great shops out there that deserve every penny and more but I am not finding any local reliability.


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## tadcanoe (Nov 2, 2009)

I am new to the thread (and fairly new to this whole site) and thought I would make a post to keep it alive. I used to own a 2017 SJ carbon expert 6fattie but more recently upgraded to a 2018 s works SJ 6fattie. I was going to upgrade the 2017, but I couldn’t pass up the deal I got on the 2018 since they couldn’t sell it easily with the new 2019 models out. Oh, and it’s an XL as I weight about 200lbs ready to ride and am 6’2”

Anyway, I live in an RV full time so I can travel for whitewater kayaking events and I have been parked in Whistler for the last month. I am probably one of the only people riding a plus sized trail bike in the park, but I still enjoy it. But I have done some upgrades to the bike that helps some:

- Öhlins 160mm coil fork
- Öhlins TTX 190x51mm Coil shock (Öhlins built it up with the stock mounting hardware so I am using the stock shock mount)

With the added piece on the 190mm shock that connects to the shock mount, it ends up being pretty close in length to the stock shock, but probably a couple mm shorter. Which lowers and slackens the bike some. The 160mm fork raises the BB some but slackens the bike even more as well. And I also end up with 143mm ish of rear travel rather than 135. 

I have been enjoying this setup, but wanting to try something new. To make this happen I may need to get a bike yoke from Germany. Anyone have one installed with the recommended 190mm shock? How much clearance is there between the yoke and the seat post of the frame. I ask because I want to try something a little different. 

I am thinking of trying to get a 200x57mm Öhlins TTX Coil shock and a bike yoke from Germany. Since I don’t have enough clearance with the seat post part of the frame for that length shock and the stock mount. But if the German bike yoke fits, it would raise my BB a lot and steepen the ht way more than what I would want. But I would have 160mm or rear wheel travel! So, to counter the much steeper bike, I was going to run a 2.6 rear tire and either keep the 3.0 in the front or put a 29er wheel in the front with a 2.6 tire. 

Thoughts?


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## shadow23 (Oct 25, 2012)

From what I have read on other posts by people wanting a longer eye to eye shock. They all say the same thing. “Don’t do it!”. And having a longer stroke might make your wheel hit the frame. I am actually thinking of getting a custom yoke machined.

Simply because the yoke I bought from BikeYoke sits further away from the sit tube. I’m using a 190x51 shock. According to the BikeYoke chart that it added another 5mm of rear travel. My SJ 18 {27.5) had 150mm front and rear with the stock shock at 197x48. The yoke is designed to keep the geometry of my SJ. That’s why the yoke is longer since the shock recommended is 190x51. But since now it has a longer stroke from 48mm to 51mm gave me a rear travel from 150mm to 155mm. So doing a rough estimate, 3mm more on the stroke equates to 5mm of extra rear travel.

So if adding another 6mm of stroke from 51 to 57 will theoretically give me another 10mm of rear travel. But I need to get a special yoke machined using a CNC milling machine that will make the yoke shorter compared to the yoke from BikeYoke. So having a specially made yoke that will accomodate a 200x57 shock size will not change the geometry of my bike. However, having a longer stroke might be an issue with the rear will hitting the frame. But I should be okay with a 200x51 shock size as the stroke length will still be 51 just like what I have now. I just have start designing a shorter yoke and get my friend to make it for me. Basically it will be the same design as the yoke from BikeYoke but just 10mm shorter so I can use a 200x51 shock size.


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## tadcanoe (Nov 2, 2009)

I see what you are trying to say about the rear wheel being too close to the seat post, but I would be adding 10mm of length and only 6mm of stroke. So I would still be farther from them hitting at full compression. I would also be moving to a smaller rear tire. 

Right now I have 3.0 purgatory grids front and rear. With the shorter rear shock I currently have, I am at 12 7/8” BB height. So the longer shock would raise that significantly so I could run a 2.6 rear tire. And the other plus about a bike yoke would be that I would have the extra play of being able to use two offset bushings rather than only the one with the stock mount. Although I would prefer not to use any. 

Only thing that bothers me with the bike yoke, is that there is supposed to be a ton of lateral force put on these shocks according to the shock manufacturers. I have seen other shock companies blame the SJ design on shock failures. So having the bike yoke from Germany attach to the shock the way it does seems like it would allow a lot more lateral flex as it seems like it could rotate with the screw? Maybe that would be less stress on the shock though? Or I am just completely wrong?


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## shadow23 (Oct 25, 2012)

tadcanoe said:


> I see what you are trying to say about the rear wheel being too close to the seat post, but I would be adding 10mm of length and only 6mm of stroke. So I would still be farther from them hitting at full compression. I would also be moving to a smaller rear tire.
> 
> Right now I have 3.0 purgatory grids front and rear. With the shorter rear shock I currently have, I am at 12 7/8" BB height. So the longer shock would raise that significantly so I could run a 2.6 rear tire. And the other plus about a bike yoke would be that I would have the extra play of being able to use two offset bushings rather than only the one with the stock mount. Although I would prefer not to use any.
> 
> Only thing that bothers me with the bike yoke, is that there is supposed to be a ton of lateral force put on these shocks according to the shock manufacturers. I have seen other shock companies blame the SJ design on shock failures. So having the bike yoke from Germany attach to the shock the way it does seems like it would allow a lot more lateral flex as it seems like it could rotate with the screw? Maybe that would be less stress on the shock though? Or I am just completely wrong?


The quality and stiffness of the yoke is not a problem. I had mine for few months now and had no issues. Changing the geometry by using a longer eye to eye is not a good idea. Personally I would not use a longer eye to eye until I get a custom made yoke that is 10mm shorter than the one I got from BikeYoke. If you want to raise the BB height get a longer fork. I am using a Fox 36 170mm Fit4. That made my BB height increase a little bit. If you look at the newer SJ with metric shock sizing, they are no different the way the eyelet is attached.


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## tadcanoe (Nov 2, 2009)

shadow23 said:


> The quality and stiffness of the yoke is not a problem. I had mine for few months now and had no issues. Changing the geometry by using a longer eye to eye is not a good idea. Personally I would not use a longer eye to eye until I get a custom made yoke that is 10mm shorter than the one I got from BikeYoke. If you want to raise the BB height get a longer fork. I am using a Fox 36 170mm Fit4. That made my BB height increase a little bit. If you look at the newer SJ with metric shock sizing, they are no different the way the eyelet is attached.


Ok. Thanks for the input about the BikeYoke. Sounds like it is good quality and I will probably be getting one if I go this route. I already have a 160mm coil fork in the front. I guess I don't see the issue why you are so against a longer shock length? Specialized already make the high BB longer length yoke. And if I got two offset bushings, my overall length would only be 6mm longer. And with a 57mm stroke shock, it would be 6mm more stroke. So bottoming out would be in the same spot as using the bikeyoke with the recommended 190x51mm.

And sorry if I hijacked the 6fattie thread. Was going for more of a here is my 6fattie build, but obviously it turned into something a little different as I was brainstorming and writing.


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## shadow23 (Oct 25, 2012)

tadcanoe said:


> Ok. Thanks for the input about the BikeYoke. Sounds like it is good quality and I will probably be getting one if I go this route. I already have a 160mm coil fork in the front. I guess I don't see the issue why you are so against a longer shock length? Specialized already make the high BB longer length yoke. And if I got two offset bushings, my overall length would only be 6mm longer. And with a 57mm stroke shock, it would be 6mm more stroke. So bottoming out would be in the same spot as using the bikeyoke with the recommended 190x51mm.
> 
> And sorry if I hijacked the 6fattie thread. Was going for more of a here is my 6fattie build, but obviously it turned into something a little different as I was brainstorming and writing.


As someone has mentioned the geometry has been calculated by bike manufacturer. The leverage ratio with the stock yoke was designed for that specific eye to eye length. The yoke from BikeYoke is designed to maintain that leverage ratio for the specific metric shock sizing of 190x51. So using a longer eye to eye shock will mess with geometry. Even I am hesitant getting a custom made yoke. Simply because I am uncertain how it would handle with a different yoke. And the question in my head of why BikeYoke didn't design the yoke so it would take a 200x51 shock sizing bothers me.

So they might know something that we don't. I will have to consult my friend who is an engineer to understand more about the changes it will make using a custom yoke. But up to you if you want to try and use the yoke from Germany and use a longer eye to eye. If it handles worse and the performance is not at all good, then you have to live with it.


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## ac1000 (Jan 2, 2014)

tadcanoe said:


> And if I got two offset bushings, my overall length would only be 6mm longer. And with a 57mm stroke shock, it would be 6mm more stroke. So bottoming out would be in the same spot as using the bikeyoke with the recommended 190x51mm.


Are you 100% sure you can put a 3mm offset bushing on the top and the coil shock will still fit? The bottom one won't interfere but the top one will raise the shock 3mm closer to the frame.

If all this was parts you on hand I'd say go for it but it's a lot of money and effort try and turn your bike into a Specialized Enduro.


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## tadcanoe (Nov 2, 2009)

ac1000 said:


> Are you 100% sure you can put a 3mm offset bushing on the top and the coil shock will still fit? The bottom one won't interfere but the top one will raise the shock 3mm closer to the frame.
> 
> If all this was parts you on hand I'd say go for it but it's a lot of money and effort try and turn your bike into a Specialized Enduro.


Hmmm. You may be right. But for one thing the offset bushings is actually 2mm closer on each end, not three. Or at least that is my understanding. I will look at my current coil shock and see if there is 2mm of room.

Also, it's easier to justify selling my stock Öhlins air shock and fork and using the money right away towards this. Rather than buying an s works enduro. Cause if it wasn't also an s works, it would feel like I was downgrading. And my Stumpjumper would be set up mullet style, which would be awesome.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Was on another forum ebikes and someone gave his review towards the stumpy which I for one disagree since I've ridden that bike on all types of trails, green-blue and blacks and don't agree with him towards the bike being classified as a "cruiser"
here's his expert opinion;
Stumpy is somewhat of a cruiser bike too. Less so than an ebike due to not being so front heavy. Cruiser bikes are just bikes made to be ridden 99% in the saddle, for fitness and leisurely adventure (mileage and elevation). They tend to be kind of dangerous compared to the more capable trail and enduro bikes that recently are coming out, featuring longer front centers that balance out the fore-aft balance to not be so front-heavy.

Anyone who wants to get the more complete MTB experience, will likely go with something like the Stumpy EVO or new enduro, but may sacrifice climbing ease due to the heavier/grippier tires they call for. I figure a motor could offset the weight weenie attitude that lingers, that has people still compromising on grip and robustness on tires, and choosing to spend over 50% more on carbon version of parts.


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## Murchman (Jan 6, 2004)

Wow, that is not at all my experience and I have been riding mine since 2016 and two weeks ago I bought a 2019 Levo Expert. I ride them both the same way and that is aggressive. Any bike can be called a cruiser bike I would not call either of them cruisers at all. Everyone has their opinions...


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

The two places I mostly ride has many segment, if not most, with KOMs set on Stumpies (not by me haha). It's mostly skills of course, but anyway. Also best singletrack I have ever ridden I noticed had a KOM by a guy on a 2017 Stumpy with Ohlins coil. That might be the cruiser he is talking about? If it was good enough for Curtis Keene in EWS, it more than enough for me. Just ride and have fun on that amazing fast cruiser.


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## mtbmatty (Dec 5, 2007)

Nash04 said:


> here's his expert opinion;
> Stumpy is somewhat of a cruiser bike too. Less so than an ebike due to not being so front heavy. Cruiser bikes are just bikes made to be ridden 99% in the saddle, for fitness and leisurely adventure (mileage and elevation). They tend to be kind of dangerous compared to the more capable trail and enduro bikes that recently are coming out, featuring longer front centers that balance out the fore-aft balance to not be so front-heavy.
> 
> Anyone who wants to get the more complete MTB experience, will likely go with something like the Stumpy EVO or new enduro, but may sacrifice climbing ease due to the heavier/grippier tires they call for. I figure a motor could offset the weight weenie attitude that lingers, that has people still compromising on grip and robustness on tires, and choosing to spend over 50% more on carbon version of parts.


 I'm betting the owner of this opinion spends more time researching and over analyzing; than actually riding and appreciating what a mountain bike is capable of. Probably an engineer ;-). I'm going to bed with the agony that I will never get back the time it took to read his deep thoughts....FML


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

mtbmatty said:


> I'm betting the owner of this opinion spends more time researching and over analyzing; than actually riding and appreciating what a mountain bike is capable of. Probably an engineer ;-). I'm going to bed with the agony that I will never get back the time it took to read his deep thoughts....FML


my bike is an 18 6fattie. Xxl. Setup tubeless w charger rc2 in a yari with a tuned dvo topaz on a custom offset bushing. 28t oval 175mm cranks and a 70mm 0 degree stem. Uncut steerer and 38mm riser bar. 260lbs 6'6" and run 15-18 front and 16-20 rear

First i still need want a spacer washer to put in the proprietary end like the 18 enduro has. Why. The topaz is about 1mm short and sits low and deep in the stroke by having what im lead to believe is a fairly large sized neg chamber. My oring sits just clear of the dvo logo when im in the saddle. 310psi 200 bladder. 4 bands pos. Need a soft compliant rear for the low back. Rebound is backed off for better traction and high speed and to keep rear end up.

yari is 130psi one token 30-32% standing sag. Full open on compression and about 8 clicks from open in the rebound.

Balanced parking lot bounce w dvo in climb mode. *also pumps the trails alot better too.

The bike has lots of slackness as its setup. Im very confident on just about anything except steep off camber stuff.

Its a great bike to charge fast stuff in or to sit and spin for long distances. I routinely knock off 16mile rides. Its a much better climber than my fuse and the longer rear chain stay is appreciated. The bike is still too small for me and would be better w 145mm rear chain stay and 30mm longer reach. I feel that the bike prefers higher speeds and being dropped or tipped to make corners. It likes body english to ride.

It absolutely sucks in tight trails covered in roots at slower speeds where you need to be hard in the pedals. Banging pedals and smashing through the travel eating all your energy and getting hung up. My fuse would rail around the same trails efficiently and you could apply power lifting the front up and over even while coming out of turns. Using the wheelie movement to finish the turns. (Same stack setup and 150mm fork.) Course the fuse couldnt climb. Felt unstable at speed and pounded your backside if you ever sat down. the stumpy has a tiny bit of wheel flop especially bagged down in the rear travel and the 70mm stem becomes a big hindrance. Yes i could drop in a 35mm for these tight trails. But i dont want to give up the reach. Perhaps dropping to the bottom of the uncut steerer and a 50mm stem would be a good compromise but i would still be smashing pedals. So i prefer the wider open higher speed stuff and i just end up skipping these tight trails. I can also sit up better for the long distance rides.

so whats the point... a sj is not a hardtail and its also not a full enduro or downhill rig. But it does better on those trails than it does in the tight stuff. Its a flawed design when stretched into an xxl size and placed under a 260lb rider for sure. But there isnt much else to ride this size.

I like the bike overall and have fun riding it. My biggest annoyance is that is started creaking like a 10 year old jumping on a coil spring bed at grandmas house during my second ride. There is always a big creak when i release tension on the rear axle. I torque it to around 14ftlbs. 
I just give up trying to be creak free!

im ready for a new bike already after only 4 months on this one.... but what would be better?


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fuse6F said:


> my bike is an 18 6fattie. Xxl. Setup tubeless w charger rc2 in a yari with a tuned dvo topaz on a custom offset bushing. 28t oval 175mm cranks and a 70mm 0 degree stem. Uncut steerer and 38mm riser bar. 260lbs 6'6" and run 15-18 front and 16-20 rear
> 
> First i still need want a spacer washer to put in the proprietary end like the 18 enduro has. Why. The topaz is about 1mm short and sits low and deep in the stroke by having what im lead to believe is a fairly large sized neg chamber. My oring sits just clear of the dvo logo when im in the saddle. 310psi 200 bladder. 4 bands pos. Need a soft compliant rear for the low back. Rebound is backed off for better traction and high speed and to keep rear end up.
> 
> ...


Had that weird creak until I replace all my suspension bearings, no more creaks, yeh!!


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

Good morning everyone and thanks for the post so interesting. I would like to ask a question to see if anyone can help me. In my stumpjumper, the shock absorber does not go all the way, does the same thing happen to anyone?

I`m sorry for my English 









Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


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## H-akka (Dec 31, 2017)

It is normal. Stanchion is longer than actual travel.


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## Eduvan (Jul 6, 2016)

H-akka said:


> It is normal. Stanchion is longer than actual travel.


Thanks for your reply. 

Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


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## Topgear24 (Jan 2, 2018)

Just pickup a 2017 Specialized Fattie frame in trade. Having a 27.5 fox 34 fork and wheeleset laying around I though it be a great chance to start a build over the winter. This is going to every trail bike since I going to sell my Marin San Quentin hardtail to finish out the build; and I have another bike set for park days when I get a chance to travel.

This trend been a treasure trove of information regarding BB height. I hope to bring this tread back to the top to ask a few setup question regarding the drivetrain setup. The original bottom bracket is set set up with a reducer cup to run 24mm crack. Is worth spend the money to get some 30mm or even DUB cracks builds.

Thanks for any help


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## Isaac G Squid (Feb 7, 2020)

*Bought the yoke, already had it*

Hi all, this is my first post. I have been following this thread for a while. I love riding this bike, its alot of fun!

Here is a pic of my bike:









I was reading about the High BB Link part number S184300001 a few weeks ago, so I decided to call my local Specialized bike shop and order one. I figured for $60 it was a cheap way to maybe avoid some pedal strikes.

A few days later I kept reading down the list of posts and saw that the 2018 model already has this yoke, and sure enough my 2018 model has the yoke on it.

My bike shop wont let me return it.

Anyone interested in buying this yoke for $30 shipped? I never even mounted it to my shock.

PM me if interested.

Thanks,

Isaac


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## Meeners (Aug 16, 2016)

Isaac G Squid said:


> Hi all, this is my first post. I have been following this thread for a while. I love riding this bike, its alot of fun!
> 
> Here is a pic of my bike:
> 
> ...


I'll take it!


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## Isaac G Squid (Feb 7, 2020)

I had a few PM's and the yoke is sold.


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## dantae (Dec 5, 2019)

Hi Guys,
Looking for some tire recommendations here. Still running the 2016 Stumpy 6fattie, the only modifications are, the higher BB yolk, changed the fork to 160mm, and switched to 170mm cranks. All 3 changes resulted in a lot less pedal strikes. Like the bike so much more this way.

When the rear tire (Ground Control) was used up, I put a Purgatory GRID 3.0 on the rear. Didn't really feel it rolled any slower, the grip was much better though. Overall very happy with that change.

Now its time for changing the front tire too. I notice that there aren't that many options in the 3.0 width (Purgatory, Maxxis HR II, Nobby Nic Addix SnakeSkin). I can also put on a 2.8 up front but a little concerned about decreased height in the front. If I go 2.8 then may be DHF is the best option.

Rolling resistance is definitely a concern for me. Most of my trails are very rocky, rooty and techincal, yet a lot of pedalling, really don't want something that slows me down too much.

Would appreciate recommendations and experiences with the front tire. Thanks!


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

i too would like a little more front tire grip. research has led me to believe the hr2 is too open and results in a slip and grip type of tire. not what i want up front! but if you over fork, then running a 2.8” could work to maintain geo. that would open up options but the tire would be narrower.

so for me im sticking w purgs f&r for now.

if your 16 has the narrow id rims, then i would look at changing that out for wider. 45 is awesome, 40 just okay. this really helps to open the purgatory up and expose the side knobs for much greater grip.

while i have the 45 id on my fuse, i have 38id on the stumpy. i know what each feels like. so i can do the width swap and take my own advice. problem is that the scrapers are a weak rim compared w the roval and im more satisfied with the stronger rim.


imo.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

dantae said:


> Rolling resistance is definitely a concern for me. Most of my trails are very rocky, rooty and techincal, yet a lot of pedalling, really don't want something that slows me down too much!


how heavy r u, rim id and what pressure are you running.

i run heavily rooted trails some times at a descent speed. i find there is a pressure sweet spot for that trail type. the tire sounds like the front of a fibreglass boat coming into the dock with those little ripple waves lapping of the front of the bow. slap slap slap. they eat up everything and the speed doesnt let me get help up. slowing down will provide that dug in feeling that is so tiring to overcome. for the slow go, i use a touch more psi.


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

update on my bike performance.
1000km had a blast riding it. super supple ride and fun handling. wore out two chains and the xg-1150 cassette is on its last legs.

still creaks...

guide r brakes work better w metallic pads and a proper bleed.

fork bushings were replaced mid season and lowers re lubed. the low friction bushings were an improvement over stock yari ones.

roval wheels stayed straight all season. two thumbs up. bad hubs though.

tore down and refreshed the rear suspension w grease and had to replace a couple bearings in the driveside chain stay. drive side hub bearing as well.

topaz shock was sent off for rebuild, damper shaft was scored. rebuild cost was half the shocks price. had the low speed compression lever firmed up for pedalling, hope to test it soon. 

the shock is very supple. because of the larger neg chamber, but this is also why i feel it has a design flaw. instead of an equal sized aircan sleeve for both chambers and getting a large neg volume by moving the equalization point deeper in the stroke. they should put a larger air-can on for just the negative side and then move the equalization point higher up in the stroke. this will let the stumpy stay up in the travel a bit more yet stay supple. the stumpy geo is sensitive to being too deep in the stroke and affecting the pedalling. imo. but i am not a suspension designer.

note they have discontinued the shock for these bikes now.

i recently put the original monarch in as it was sticking down brand new off the showroom floor. the lbs returned it from warranty with a heavy tune on it and no auto sag. unfortunately i never used the shock till now (had the dvo) and went for a 4km test ride along some paved bike paths. the shock was stuck down by the time i got home. hopefully they will repair it.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

Perhaps not applicable but I thought the HR2 was the grippiest, slowest rolling tire I've ever used in 2.35 x 27.5. No slip and grip in that size, except when side knobs were ripped.

You say you like a stronger rim more than the Scraper. Can you speak to why? More precise? I use a Scraper but I think its weaker nature is more important for my use.



Fuse6F said:


> i too would like a little more front tire grip. research has led me to believe the hr2 is too open and results in a slip and grip type of tire. not what i want up front! but if you over fork, then running a 2.8" could work to maintain geo. that would open up options but the tire would be narrower.
> 
> ...
> 
> while i have the 45 id on my fuse, i have 38id on the stumpy. i know what each feels like. so i can do the width swap and take my own advice. problem is that the scrapers are a weak rim compared w the roval and im more satisfied with the stronger rim.


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

Thustlewhumber said:


> ...and the linkage is supposedly adjustable to higher or lower BB, and able to be retrofitted to existing Stumpys.


I have 2016 swork 6fattie and would like to retrofit for a higher bb, where do I find this info?


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

Is anyone running 29 x 2.6? and 27.5 x 3.0 in the front?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

ReturnOfTheMTB said:


> Is anyone running 29 x 2.6? and 27.5 x 3.0 in the front?


I've ran both. 29x2.3 at the moment.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

Flash said:


> I've ran both. 29x2.3 at the moment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


29 x 2.3 in the rear and 27.5 x 3.0 in the front didn't change things too much or lower the bb? What improvements did this setup give you?


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

Murchman said:


> It will be interesting to see if we can put the carbon rear on the 2016's and the cost.


anyone know if these will fit the 2016?


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

has anyone successfully made their 6fattie carbon to an ebike mid motor?

Thinking maybe we can put a battery in the swatbox compartment


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

ReturnOfTheMTB said:


> has anyone successfully made their 6fattie carbon to an ebike mid motor?
> 
> Thinking maybe we can put a battery in the swatbox compartment


Specialized has done just that. It's called a Levo. ?


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## Flash (Jan 30, 2004)

ReturnOfTheMTB said:


> 29 x 2.3 in the rear and 27.5 x 3.0 in the front didn't change things too much or lower the bb? What improvements did this setup give you?


Almost exactly the same bb height. Slightly more pedal strikes in 27.5 because of more tire to compress. I wanted to try 2.8 but it's not worth wrecking my knees. The 27.5 is a bit more fun downhill and on softer trail bed. The 29+ is definitely smoother but slightly more sluggish in slower technical areas but if you're strong enough to roll it really fun. It's already like summer conditions here so running the 29x2.3 Ground Control and Fastrak. This is another reason I love my Stumpy. So versatile with just a tire swap. BTW, mine is a 17 Carbon. I just installed the longer link. I like it!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

does anyone know if the 2016 S-works is 9m carbon or 11m carbon, the 2017 and 2018 use 11m carbon? 

My 2016 says 9m carbon but I heard some was just a labeling mistake and it's 11m?


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## George Knox (Jun 24, 2012)

ReturnOfTheMTB said:


> does anyone know if the 2016 S-works is 9m carbon or 11m carbon, the 2017 and 2018 use 11m carbon?
> 
> My 2016 says 9m carbon but I heard some was just a labeling mistake and it's 11m?


Call Specialized if you're that concerned. It will be your best bet to get the actual answer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

I have a 2016 S-works and it is labeled 11M. post a close-up pic of your frame in sunlight or flash and we can compare them visually.


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## ReturnOfTheMTB (Nov 4, 2014)

MisterClean said:


> I have a 2016 S-works and it is labeled 11M. post a close-up pic of your frame in sunlight or flash and we can compare them visually.


Wiped the dirt and mud off it says 11m


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## Fuse6F (Jul 5, 2017)

Old bike now. But an update still worth it. 

Ran the stock shock with heavy tune for a couple months. So nice to setup the ride height above 30% sag. Bike pedals so nice now. Choppy chattery rear end though. Can feel the shock bob a bit on dips in the trail as the low speed is still under damped. So run rt3 if you want to keep the rear end up. Hardly a pedal strike.

Topaz back on this week, so are the pedal strikes. Energy sapping ride height. So very little diff between the open climb switch. But its better than before. Swapped in three bands to the negative chamber and it helps take away that float no weight feeling to the sag. Bit firmer there now. Oring just barely up on the edge of the dvo logo now. 

Friend is cutting me a 2mm chip spacer to fit under the shock body. Will need a longer bolt. But it will save pedal strikes and ride better.

Also, do prefer the slacker head angle with the sagged out shock. Fork picks up the trail chatter much better and doesnt vibrate fore aft as much under braking. So maybe a 160mm air tube up front or swap in a 29x 2.8” to bring up the front end.

Dvo shock destroys the rt3 for performance. Hardly any chatter and breaks away on a nice trail bump like a root or rock without any under damped bob to it.

Does anyone know where to get more 3.0” tires?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Wtb has the ranger, spec has the purgatory still. 3.0 tires are becoming extinct which really pisses me off.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

Is Trek still supporting 3.0 tires ok?


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

jpre said:


> Is Trek still supporting 3.0 tires ok?


If you mean 29 x 3", yes -- they keep XR2 and XR4 in stock in large quantities.

I heard a rumor from inside Trek that an XR3 was in the works in 29 x 3", but haven't been able to confirm it with any trusted sources as yet.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> 3.0 tires are becoming extinct which really pisses me off.


I spent a lot of time screaming at a wall for this very reason, and then just bit the bullet and went with 2.8's. No amount of internet bitching (especially this tiny little corner of the mountain bike world, MTBR) is going to change the shift away from 3.0 tires for any manufacturer.

There are some available, but honestly we're starting to dwindle down to the fringe players like VEE and Duro. It took me about half of a ride to adjust to the smaller size (mostly the higher pressure), but then I threw in a couple Vittoria AirLiners and put my pressures back to where they were with 3" and it's been great. And the pedal strikes are nowhere as bad as the armchair forum engineers would have you believe. YMMV


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## Oh My Sack! (Aug 21, 2006)

You guys need some Nobby Nic 3.0's? I think I have several BNIB. I'll have to check my inventory!


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## TEvans73 (Aug 1, 2007)

Can any one confirm that the *stock 28 tooth chainring* on the 2016 fattie is compatible with the current model X01 eagle chain/ derailleur /cassette ? Thinking of going eagle with 10/50. Anyone experiences, likes dislikes? I put 2.6 29"ers on mine and now need a bit more climbing gear. Thanks


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

mikesee said:


> If you mean 29 x 3", yes -- they keep XR2 and XR4 in stock in large quantities.
> 
> I heard a rumor from inside Trek that an XR3 was in the works in 29 x 3", but haven't been able to confirm it with any trusted sources as yet.


However, I've heard Trek will be discontinuing the Stache so those might eventually go away as well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## mikesee (Aug 25, 2003)

Slyham said:


> However, I've heard Trek will be discontinuing the Stache so those might eventually go away as well.


I heard that rumor too but a quick query of a handful of folks inside at Trek has not substantiated it as yet.

But the tires? Sure -- eventually they'll go away. They always do.


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## Bacchus32 (Jul 24, 2011)

mikesee said:


> If you mean 29 x 3", yes -- they keep XR2 and XR4 in stock in large quantities.
> 
> I heard a rumor from inside Trek that an XR3 was in the works in 29 x 3", but haven't been able to confirm it with any trusted sources as yet.


Yes x 1,000


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

blaklabl said:


> I spent a lot of time screaming at a wall for this very reason, and then just bit the bullet and went with 2.8's. No amount of internet bitching (especially this tiny little corner of the mountain bike world, MTBR) is going to change the shift away from 3.0 tires for any manufacturer.
> 
> There are some available, but honestly we're starting to dwindle down to the fringe players like VEE and Duro. It took me about half of a ride to adjust to the smaller size (mostly the higher pressure), but then I threw in a couple Vittoria AirLiners and put my pressures back to where they were with 3" and it's been great. And the pedal strikes are nowhere as bad as the armchair forum engineers would have you believe. YMMV


I was loving 3.0 when they were everywhere, finally found what I liked. Skinny not me, a rigid fat bike can only do so much. When I got a 27+ (i was on 29er) it was a eureka moment for me.

I'm not against 2.8 tires, my new stumpy came with 2.4s but fits up to 3.0. I just love 3.0 in the front mainly, 2.8 in the back is fine.

Problem is that 27.5+ tires in general are dying out. That annoys me.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## prj71 (Dec 29, 2014)

3.0 or 2.8...

Splitting hairs...


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## TCardS19 (Jul 14, 2020)

Hi all,
First time posting on one of these threads and was hoping for some guidance on swapping wheels on my 2017 Stumpjumper Comp 6fattie. A couple years ago I had my local bike shop replace the plus wheelset with 29in wheels. I am wanting to sell my Stumpy but keep the 29er wheels, so I put the 27.5+ wheels back on. Issue is I am getting chain rub on the top of my chainstay when in the smallest cog.

I dont think flip chip was included on the comps yet (Correct me if i'm wrong). I cant find any steps online of what adjustments need to be made so the 27.5+ wheelsets fit properly. Can anyone point me in the right direction or let me know what adjustments need to be made? 

Thank you!


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## Slyham (Jun 24, 2015)

TCardS19 said:


> Hi all,
> First time posting on one of these threads and was hoping for some guidance on swapping wheels on my 2017 Stumpjumper Comp 6fattie. A couple years ago I had my local bike shop replace the plus wheelset with 29in wheels. I am wanting to sell my Stumpy but keep the 29er wheels, so I put the 27.5+ wheels back on. Issue is I am getting chain rub on the top of my chainstay when in the smallest cog.
> 
> I dont think flip chip was included on the comps yet (Correct me if i'm wrong). I cant find any steps online of what adjustments need to be made so the 27.5+ wheelsets fit properly. Can anyone point me in the right direction or let me know what adjustments need to be made?
> ...


I have the 2018 and have never had to do anything to switch back and forth between 27.5+ and 29er.

The chainstay protector has gotten loose before and rubbed the chain. Is the protectors flush against the chain stay?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Never any adjustment to go back and forth between the 2. 27.5+ is rather close in diameter to narrower 29er tires (of course tire size depending).

The flip chip which is included with the frame regardless of what build spec, changes the geometry unless you change the fork to match.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Anyone consider putting a "Slack-R" headset onto a SJ6F? It would be awesome to be able to get the HTA to around 66 degrees from the 67.5. It'l stretch the wheelbase a bit too.

https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=124&product_id=261

Only thing is that the steerer tube might be too short. Spesh cut it pretty short. I might only have ~15mm of the necessary 20mm required to run the kit.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

I'd like to hear from some of the OG's on this thread. I have a 2016 s-works FSR Fattie that I bought new. Still enjoying it today - all stock/OEM other than newer 3.0 tires with the gripton compound set up tubeless with rim plugs. I recently broke a nipple on the front wheel - the carbon 27.5 with 30mm internal width rim deep into a ride. I was abusing it - full send down a rock garden, heavy on the brakes at then end to set up for a turn. I plan to rebuild the OEM rims with new nipples since corrosion could be playing a role there and the bearings are shot..

I've also wanted to try a wider rim and found a set of new 27.5 carbon traverse SL wheelset - 38mm wide on clearance for $700! I couldn't resist so I bought them. But they are MUCH heavier that stock. OE wheelset was 1530 grams or something. These weigh in at 1860. About 80 grams of that weight is in spokes and brass nipples. And the rest must be in the hubs. These are the same as the s-works level wheelsets they sell on new enduro's and stumpy evo's except those are 29". These would update the look of the bike, I suppose.

Alternatively, I could send this new wheelset back and get the original 38mm wide carbon wheelset with the orange stickers to match for $1,100 - there are still a few sets floating around, but dealers want the full price for them. Those original 38's weigh in at 1660 grams - same hubs and spokes as these 30's, but a little less burly build than the newer ones. Breaking one nipple in 6 years isn't too bad so not sure if I need the beefy wheel build. But then, I was lucky I broke the brake side with the higher spoke count. I was still able to ride out, but gently. Wheel was barely out or true. If this was the 8 count spoke side, it could have been much more out of true and I may have had to walk out..

Just not sure what direction to go in. The new gen-2 SL 38 wheelset is a great price. And it uses DT swiss com race j-bend spokes in all equal length for every spoke. I could theoretically store one with some nipples in my downtube storage for those longer rides.

I posted a similar message in the wheel thread and got a couple replies. I'm not keen on going wider rim than 38 just yet. I may start building my own wheels and experimenting more down the road.

Some pics for fun...


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## phride (Sep 14, 2015)

There were some quality issues with the Roval carbon wheels a couple years back. I don't know if it affected the 27.5s or not, as the reports I heard about related to 29er carbon wheels, I but I'd do some research on that as it might explain the price difference. Those original 38s with the DT Swiss hubs are sweet.


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## gdb85 (Mar 4, 2017)

I have a set of the original i38 carbon wheels. 5 yrs old now but they don't get ridden daily or weekly for that matter. I have moved them to a hardtail since I sold the Stumpy 3yrs ago. They're still going strong and like the footprint with 2.8 tires. If spoke and nipples are only the problem, have them rebuilt with a little bit beefier spoke and brass nipples, better than aluminum when it comes to battling corrosion from sealant.


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## Epic_Dude (May 31, 2010)

MisterClean said:


> I'd like to hear from some of the OG's on this thread. I have a 2016 s-works FSR Fattie that I bought new. Still enjoying it today - all stock/OEM other than newer 3.0 tires with the gripton compound set up tubeless with rim plugs. I recently broke a nipple on the front wheel - the carbon 27.5 with 30mm internal width rim deep into a ride. I was abusing it - full send down a rock garden, heavy on the brakes at then end to set up for a turn. I plan to rebuild the OEM rims with new nipples since corrosion could be playing a role there and the bearings are shot..
> 
> I've also wanted to try a wider rim and found a set of new 27.5 carbon traverse SL wheelset - 38mm wide on clearance for $700! I couldn't resist so I bought them. But they are MUCH heavier that stock. OE wheelset was 1530 grams or something. These weigh in at 1860. About 80 grams of that weight is in spokes and brass nipples. And the rest must be in the hubs. These are the same as the s-works level wheelsets they sell on new enduro's and stumpy evo's except those are 29". These would update the look of the bike, I suppose.
> 
> ...


Both are nice sets of wheels the only advice I can offer is for the extra weight you probably get additional strength and robustness that it sounds like you can benefit from having.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

Epic_Dude said:


> Both are nice sets of wheels the only advice I can offer is for the extra weight you probably get additional strength and robustness that it sounds like you can benefit from having.


Thanks. Kind of what I'm thinking... one issue I've had constantly with the old wheels is when I am hitting berms or even pumping through dips on flow trails, the wheels emit this loud "Thwang" and sometimes sounds like a turkey warble. I have a feeling it's from the wheel/spoke design - straight pull - low spoke count (?). no idea, but it's unnerving and makes me lose confidence. I may give these new traverse SL a try.


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## MisterClean (Jul 1, 2004)

phride said:


> There were some quality issues with the Roval carbon wheels a couple years back. I don't know if it affected the 27.5s or not, as the reports I heard about related to 29er carbon wheels, I but I'd do some research on that as it might explain the price difference. Those original 38s with the DT Swiss hubs are sweet


Thanks. I did some research on that just now. Looks like some issues with holding trueness and spoke length being too long. I mounted these new wheels to the bike ( bike stand, sans tires) and while the rear wheel is laser-true - zero perceptible wobble with my calibrated zip-tie  , the front wheel is pretty awful. side-to-side wobble is out by probably 3-4 mm! I don't have a tension meter, but the "pluck-tone" test shows some very low-tension spokes. I can probably true the front, but noticed two spokes are bent after the butting by the hub. Poor quality control here. Yikes. I could return them or just install two new spokes. Not sure if you can see it in the pic here - check the two at the 6:00 position. WTH is that all about? I don't even know how that would happen at the factory.


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## BansheeRune (Nov 27, 2011)

Pluck Tone! Isn't that a record label??

Looking at the pic, it looks as though something impacted the two bent spokes. Straighten em and give the wheel a good goingo over.


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## rockychrysler (Aug 9, 2003)




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## In2bikes (5 mo ago)

rockychrysler said:


> View attachment 1999981


Can you imagine how far you would have to lean this bike to engage the side knobs

please find some i45 rims


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## levity (Oct 31, 2011)

In2bikes said:


> Can you imagine how far you would have to lean this bike to engage the side knobs
> 
> please find some i45 rims


Hey, those knobs provide sidewall protection. Could be handy in rocky terrain. 

Truth be told, I’ve run 3.0 tires on i30, 35, 40 and 45 rims. Wider is generally better but they all work. Different feel and behavior, Just don’t run pressures too low on a narrow rim or it may fold over. Horses for courses.


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## In2bikes (5 mo ago)

You forgot to mention side hilling off camber sections or climbing up deep ruts


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