# Help me get my bike down to 26 (25?) lbs



## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Hi All,

I'm an experienced roadie weight weenie who has been riding a new MTB for awhile. This bike is a lot fun but DAMN it's heavy. Maybe not so heavy vs the competition, but I'd like to drop 5 lbs off of it. I'm a trail/fire road rider who likes big climbs. No crazy downhill stuff or jumps.

Pic of the bike is attached.

Weight as pictured: 31 lbs 2 oz

Here's what I've done so far:
Replaced Specialized platform pedals with Speedplay Frogs: -260g
Replaced Cannondale seatpost with cut Thomson Elite post: -192g
Replaced Cannondale saddle with Phenom Expert: -83g

Current weight: 29 lbs 13oz

Planned upgrades:
Replaced stock wheelset with Mavic Crossmax ST: -500g
Replace stock tires with Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.2: -340g
Replace stock PG-930 11-34 with PG-930 11-34: -140g

That would get me into the mid 27's.

Beyond that, I need some help. In the road world, groupset weights are published and readily available. I'm not finding the same in the MTB world.

Group:
Shifters: SRAM X7 3x9
Crankset: Shimano M542 44-34-22
Front D: Shimano Deore (not sure which one)
Rear D: SRAM X9
Brakes: Avid Elixir 3

Thanks,
Bob


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

That fork and crank are both boat anchors. 

Id start with the fork. Throw on a nice rockshox dual air Reba and I bet you'd save a decent chunk.


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## S_Trek (May 3, 2010)

Non QR steatpost clamp. Thomson makes one. Shorter stem and trim your cables.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Current fork -> RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air 120mm: 2069g (wow!!)
Proposed fork -> RockShox Reba RL - Dual Air 120mm 26-Inch: 1519g

Looks like the stock crank is about 1000g. I'd like to be able to run a 26/39 double crankset, but doing double is expensive. New RD, new crank, new cassette, new shifters. Fork seems like much more bang for the buck. A Deore XT triple would still save about 200g. Can I use a 10 speed crank with a 9 speed derailleur and chain? I've done it in the road world, but I don't want to assume. 

Thanks,
Bob


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

Swap out the fork like you are doing, and then get a light crank and go 2x9. 

Once you do that you will be 27s and that's gonna be it unless you start spending serious $$ on a 2x10 X0 setup. 

I'd also go for lighter wheels. The Crossmax isn't exactly light. 

-Tom


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

bobonker said:


> Current fork -> RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air 120mm: 2069g (wow!!)
> Proposed fork -> RockShox Reba RL - Dual Air 120mm 26-Inch: 1519g
> 
> Looks like the stock crank is about 1000g. I'd like to be able to run a 26/39 double crankset, but doing double is expensive. New RD, new crank, new cassette, new shifters. Fork seems like much more bang for the buck. A Deore XT triple would still save about 200g. Can I use a 10 speed crank with a 9 speed derailleur and chain? I've done it in the road world, but I don't want to assume.
> ...


Yes they're interchangeable as long as the front derailleur matches the chainring setup.

There was an xt triple blowout. Here it is: http://www.blueskycycling.com/product6447_63_-Shimano-Deore-XT-T781-10-Speed-Crankset.htm


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

That's a crazy deal for a 3x10 XT. Grab that, and replace that big heavy big ring with a light bashguard.


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## lightjunction (May 17, 2011)

I'd upgrade your cockpit and pedals while you're at it. Looks like all stock alloy stuff. Upgrade to some carbon or lightweight aluminum bars, stem and seatpost. Easton makes some good stuff. I'm riding Ritchey myself and I'm happy with it. 

I'd swap out the saddle for something thinner and lighter. Fi'zi:k makes some quality racing saddles that really drop some weight, and they're super comfy too.

As far as pedals go, it's hard to get much lighter than CrankBrothers Eggbeaters, but there are a lot more "feel" and performance issues with pedals that are probably more important. Any way you go here, I'd go with at least a middle to upper tier model to save weight.


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## lightjunction (May 17, 2011)

Oh, and ditch that reflector. That thing's gotta weigh at least 1000g.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

lightjunction said:


> I'd upgrade your cockpit and pedals while you're at it. Looks like all stock alloy stuff. Upgrade to some carbon or lightweight aluminum bars, stem and seatpost. Easton makes some good stuff. I'm riding Ritchey myself and I'm happy with it.
> 
> I'd swap out the saddle for something thinner and lighter. Fi'zi:k makes some quality racing saddles that really drop some weight, and they're super comfy too.
> 
> As far as pedals go, it's hard to get much lighter than CrankBrothers Eggbeaters, but there are a lot more "feel" and performance issues with pedals that are probably more important. Any way you go here, I'd go with at least a middle to upper tier model to save weight.


Did you not read his post at all?


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

I pulled the crankset off and weighed it. 857g without bottom bracket.

That's actually a lot lighter than I thought. I figured it'd be in the 1000g range.

I don't think there's a lot to be lost there unless I go double. SRAM X9 or X0 24/38 would be ideal.

Bob


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

What Bottom bracket standard/width is that frame?


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Looks like it's BB30 with a BSA adapters so that I can Shimano cranks and SRAM GXP cranks.

So, I guess I could save a pretty good chunk of weight by going to a BB30 double chainring crankset.

Bob


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

bobonker said:


> Looks like it's BB30 with a BSA adapters so that I can Shimano cranks and SRAM GXP cranks.
> 
> So, I guess I could save a pretty good chunk of weight by going to a BB30 double chainring crankset.
> 
> Bob


You sure can.
S-Works 175mm MTB cranks = $300.00.
Lightning spider = $60.00.
Run any chainrings you want, Pictured are Extralite 32/22.


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## mucky (Dec 17, 2010)

bobonker said:


> Current fork -> RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air 120mm: 2069g (wow!!)
> Proposed fork -> RockShox Reba RL - Dual Air 120mm 26-Inch: 1519g
> 
> Looks like the stock crank is about 1000g. I'd like to be able to run a 26/39 double crankset, but doing double is expensive. New RD, new crank, new cassette, new shifters. Fork seems like much more bang for the buck. A Deore XT triple would still save about 200g. Can I use a 10 speed crank with a 9 speed derailleur and chain? I've done it in the road world, but I don't want to assume.
> ...


To run a 2x all you need is a new crank. You could even use the one you heve, but if you want lighter get an X9 double or something like it. You could go XO, XX XT, XTR, but all will cost more than X9. You could probably find a good deal on an FSA k-force light 2x9 on ebay. The above specialized cranks would be sweet too.

Also, you might want to rethink your rim choice. You can get some Stan's Crest rims @ 340g or some Stan's Arch @440g( 26er weights), aluminum nipples and DB spokes.
Even a new wheelset, depending on budget.

Maybe an XT cassette too.

Every part on your bike could be lighter, but you have to figure out your budget.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

I thought that the Crossmax STs were considered light by MTB standards? They are 1590g vs the 2095g of my current wheelset. 

That crank is SICK light!

I'll probably stick to aluminum crank arms because I've banged the ends of them on rocks already. Can the carbon take that kind of (dumb) abuse?

Thanks,
Bob


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## mucky (Dec 17, 2010)

bobonker said:


> I thought that the Crossmax STs were considered light by MTB standards? They are 1590g vs the 2095g of my current wheelset.
> 
> That crank is SICK light!
> 
> ...


I kinda mis read you post. I thought you were replacing stock rims with 500g rims. 
1590 is good. You can probably be as light for less, with a Stans wheelset. Like these
ZTR Arch EX 26" Stock Wheelset
If you bang your cranks, stick with Al cranks. Maybe check out middleburn cranks.


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## 1SPD (Apr 25, 2010)

I think it all depends on funding! As mentioned, just about every part of your bike could be lighter but it all depends on what you want to spend.

Der cables = i links will drop some weight
ESI Racers edge grips or even Ritchey foam grips
ton of different seatpost clamps (KCNC is only about $20 at Fairwheel bikes)

Used XTR M960 crank run as a double set up (weight will probably be right around 500g as a double) if you were to stick with your current bb set up. But knowing you have a BB30 the Spec cranks above would be the bomb! And so far the carbon cranks I have ridden handled the abuse
The trick with the spec cranks is finding them at that price. Everytime I have gone looking for them (when I had money), I could never find them at that price point and most of the time the places were sold out of them.


KCNC seatpost (find a used one and trim it down as needed)
Different rear cassette
Shock as mentioned
bars/stem combo
KCNC or Ashima rotors are only like $25 ea.
You can even get lighter hydro brake cables
skewers

The trick with all of this is to go as light as you can with each initial purchase. This way you don't end up double spending down the road when you realize you are now addicted to light mtb parts.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

^^ I agree with his last paragraph. It's better to spend the money up front then to upgrade everything almost right away. 

This is why I like building up a bike vs buying complete. You get what you want the first time around.


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

What's your budget Bob?


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

bobonker said:


> I thought that the Crossmax STs were considered light by MTB standards? They are 1590g vs the 2095g of my current wheelset.
> 
> That crank is SICK light!
> 
> ...


These cranks are really tuff. I've got alot of time on mine & just spent a week in Arizona smashing them into rocks - no problems, you do need to run the hard rubber boots for the crank ends in rocky terrain though. You can get these from Spec. or Race Face.
For the $300.00 price just by direct from Spec. USA website. They are often out of stock, so you may have to wait a bit.These cranks are stock on all their S-Works bikes.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Budget is 800 ish.

I know you're thinking the wheels will consume all of that, but they won't. I'm trading some other parts to get them from a buddy whose got a new set, so they are basically 'free'.

I had 3 options when I chose this bike:
2011 RZ 120 3 -> $1430 including tax (on clearance)
2012 RZ 120 3 -> $1760 incl tax
2012 RZ 120 2 -> $2300 incl tax

The 2012 "3" is basically the same bike but it is spec'd with 10 speed SRAM X5 and Avid Elixir 1 brakes.

The 2012 "2" would have left me with no money to upgrade it and I didn't think the $900 jump over the 2011 "3" was worth it.

Bob


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

If weight is your main priority id do the fork, wheels, crankset and carbon bars/light stem.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

bobonker said:


> I thought that the Crossmax STs were considered light by MTB standards? They are 1590g vs the 2095g of my current wheelset.
> 
> b


ZTR Crest 26" Stock Wheelset

1420 grams for less price then Crossmax. How much do you weigh?


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

You can probably get there if you're patient.

Here's a few links I've found that might help. It'll put you a bit over your budget, but given that those Mavic wheels would probably eat up all of your budget this is a bit more affordable. It still doesn't shed 5 lbs though.

Stans ZTR Arch 26 disc tubeless IS-disc QR wheelset - black
Magura USA Durin SL MD100SL XC Fork from Hucknroll.com


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

I've already committed to the Mavics and like I said, they are basically free.

So, I guess I'll focus on the fork.

This bike is setup for a fork with a 1.5" steerer tube. Everything I've seen is 1 1/8". Can I get different headset bearings, or just keep looking for 1.5" forks?

Thanks,
Bob


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## 1SPD (Apr 25, 2010)

Well, with the wheels taken care of, I think the fork is the next logical place to go. The bottom line here is that you are getting a good deal on the wheels and you are still shedding some weight plus you are keeping the cash available for other things. Spend it on a nice fork for sure and just go from there.


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## 1SPD (Apr 25, 2010)

I don't know enough about the head tube issue but if the frame was designed for a 1.5 then I would think that you would need to stick with a fork that has a 1.5" steerer tube. But what do I know, I am riding a rigid set up on a cheap steel frame...


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

They make reducers and headsets specific to reducing down to 1 1/8". 


Its a taper I assume? I did't think anybody was making full 1.5 anymore.
Like this:
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/18952-205_FSADI9-3-Parts-63-Headsets/FSA-Orbit-DL-Reducer-Headset-1.5-1-1_8-Black.htm


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

bobonker said:


> I've already committed to the Mavics and like I said, they are basically free.


Doh, skipped right over that part.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Ilikebmx999 said:


> They make reducers and headsets specific to reducing down to 1 1/8".
> 
> Its a taper I assume? I did't think anybody was making full 1.5 anymore.
> Like this:
> FSA Orbit DL Reducer Headset 1.5-1 1/8 Black at Price Point


Cannondales are straight 1.5"

Ooh, nice find on the FSA.

I also found this one:
Cane Creek Double XC 2 Flush Headset at Price Point

Twice is much money, but significantly cheaper.

So, one of the above plus this:

RockShox - Reba RL

...and I'm basically there. 

Bob


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

I weighed some more parts.

Stock handlebar (680mm wide): 302g
Stock Stem: 168g
Stock grips: 90g/pair

Some pretty easy savings here unless I should avoid a carbon handlebar.

CF handlebar: 175g for $80 unless I should avoid this thing?
Forté CTR Carbon Riser Handlebars - Mountain Handlebars

Silicon grips: 60g for $15

Assuming I can use a road stem (after I got to a 1 1/8 steerer fork): 120g for free

185 grams for $95

Bob


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

Carbon bars are great. I run answer protaper carbon bars personally.


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## rayk (Feb 10, 2012)

*Slightly unrelated*

Does anyone notice a positive difference in ride quality with the carbon bars, or is it just for the weight savings? Sorry to get even further off track, but does anyone know the weight of the stock Marin alloy bars. I've looked all over and was trying to avoid taking them off. Thanks.

By the way, I'm assuming you're planning on going tubeless with the new wheels?


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## litany (Nov 25, 2009)

rayk said:


> Does anyone notice a positive difference in ride quality with the carbon bars, or is it just for the weight savings?


I didn't notice any difference going from monkeylite alloy to race face next sl bars. I mainly did it to achieve a better fit. I am however a lightweight rider.


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## mucky (Dec 17, 2010)

rayk said:


> Does anyone notice a positive difference in ride quality with the carbon bars, or is it just for the weight savings?


They should help with absorbing some vibration. Will you notice? Probably not. I haven't used an alloy bar in forever. I like to think I notice some better damping.


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## 1SPD (Apr 25, 2010)

Well, I personally have a Ritchey WCS bar (super logic) and they are closer to 125g cut down to 610 or so. My stem is also a WCS and weighs in right around 120 w/ ti bolts. I definitely think you can find some lighter bars with ease (though it depends on your budget). I have also run the ESI racers edge grips that weigh right around 50g but had good luck with my Ritchey foam grips that only cost $10 and weigh in around 15g (if that).

If you have the funding I would consider a Syntace bar/stem set up. The f99 stem weighs in at about 100g and the bar isn't far off that mark either. I think QBP is their distributor so most bikes shops could order them for you.


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

rayk said:


> Does anyone notice a positive difference in ride quality with the carbon bars, or is it just for the weight savings? Sorry to get even further off track, but does anyone know the weight of the stock Marin alloy bars. I've looked all over and was trying to avoid taking them off. Thanks.
> 
> By the way, I'm assuming you're planning on going tubeless with the new wheels?


after about 15 miles off road my outer palms would start to hurt with an alloy bar. now i can ride nearly double that before any hand soreness at all. :thumbsup:

i ride 725mm answer protaper carbon bars which i think weigh just over 200g's. wide bars = good


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## LynskeyMatt (Feb 11, 2012)

i cant get along with narrow bars or flat, got to be risers and wide =]


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## liv2_mountain_bike (Nov 7, 2011)

Yes, carbon bars are noticeably more comfortable than stock aluminum or even good quality aluminum. As mentioned above, they absorb more vibration and have tuned flex that eases wrist and palm pain over long rides. They are durable too. I have bashed them on numerous rocks and trees and they haven't snapped yet. I like the Ritchey WCS risers as well. 680mm at 150g. I think they are worth the money. Concentrate on the fork next. You will get much better handling with the newer one as well as weight savings. Newer SIDs with carbon steerers and crowns can be had for $500 if you search long enough. Those are under 1500g!


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Some serious weight shaving is under way!

I got my Rocket Rons, the SRAM PC-990 cassette, and the Crossmax ST wheelset.

Old wheels: 2095g
New wheels: 1605g
Savings: 490g

Old tires: 1365g
New tires: 960g
Savings: 405g

Old cassette: 451g
New cassette: 303g
Savings: 148g

Total savings = 1043g = ~2.3 lbs

I'll post a pic when all of the parts are put on.

Bob


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## 1SPD (Apr 25, 2010)

Lookin good! I think a new fork might be the next place to shed some serious weight as mentioned above!


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## octanejake (Oct 11, 2010)

edit. never mind, sorry


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## luisc202 (Feb 5, 2012)

Man you are shaving some weight off the bike. Thanks for the thread it gave me ideas for my bike.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Here's the result of round 1. Haven't ridden it yet...hopefully tomorrow!

Thanks for all of the input. 

Seat looks nose up but it's actually level (metal plate across the top - level on top of that). I had to flip it sideways to weight it so that it wouldn't hit the scale and mess up the numbers.

Bob


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## davetrials (Feb 27, 2012)

some suggestions..

Hylix carbon handlebars - 115g - 40 dollars posted
J&L Titanium wheel QR skewers-Blk-30g/pair - 35 dollars
KCNC foam grips - 12g a pair (15 dollars or less)

All can be found on ebay.com

Check your brakes, they could be very heavy - you could move to avid BB7 mechanical which are "pretty" light but allow you to have ultra-light mechanical brake levers (or invest in Formula ORO's or lighter)


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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

With a mountain bike (similarly to a road bike I would assume) the biggest weight difference will be felt at the rotating mass. Replacing the wheels/tires with lighter equipment should improve the weight more dramatically than anything else. Also look into a rock shox reba or sid, or a fox f100 for the fork. That will slay about a pound off the bike alone, if not more.


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## IAmHolland (Jul 8, 2010)

xc71 said:


> You sure can.
> S-Works 175mm MTB cranks = $300.00.
> Lightning spider = $60.00.
> Run any chainrings you want, Pictured are Extralite 32/22.


Do Extralite rings wear well? How do they compare in durability to other alloy rings, such as the Middleburn Hardcoat?


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## xc71 (Dec 24, 2008)

IAmHolland said:


> Do Extralite rings wear well? How do they compare in durability to other alloy rings, such as the Middleburn Hardcoat?


Compared to other Alum. rings I would say they wear better than average. I've got all of last season as well as riding 2 times a week this winter in the snow & a full week of riding in Arizona.They are showing a little wear but still working & shifting great with a KMC X10 SL chain.My son has the Middleburn Hardcoat rings, but he only weighs 68 lbs. so they still look like new.I think the best wearing rings would be XTR's, but also alot heavier than the Extralite's.


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## Dirt Bringer (May 10, 2006)

How reliable are those hylix carbon bars and stem?


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

I've gone from 31lb 2oz to 27lb 8oz. Still more to do, but I think I'm gonna take a break and just ride the thing for awhile. Imagine that! :lol:

I do think I'll grab a set of EC70 bars and ESI grips and call it good for now.

Maybe a fork upgrade down the road.

Thanks for all of the input. I learned a lot. 

Bob


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## luisc202 (Feb 5, 2012)

bobonker said:


> I've gone from 31lb 2oz to 27lb 8oz. Still more to do, but I think I'm gonna take a break and just ride the thing for awhile. Imagine that! :lol:
> 
> I do think I'll grab a set of EC70 bars and ESI grips and call it good for now.
> 
> ...


bob,

i was going to ask you when you were going to ride it ... Yep that is a nice weight reduction so now go enjoy it.


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## BShow (Jun 15, 2006)

A proper fork will shed a pound or so and add a lot of performance. That 300g handlebar is freakin heavy. You can shed a third of a pound pretty easily there and for pretty cheap. Grips... the silicone jobs will save you a lot of weight for like 20 bucks - no brainer. 

Are you running tubeless? there's some weight savings and performance gains to be had with that conversion and it's cheap. 

You probably dont have the means to trim your hydro lines, but they're long and you could shed a few grams by trimming those and your derailleur lines (an aside - the cable routing on your frame bugs me... nothing you can do about it though). again... cheap.

A seat collar that is not QR will save a few grams on the cheap as well... but if you move your saddle a lot, the convenience might be worth the ~20 grams. Your call. 

Getting rid of the steel stuff on your bike will add up to quite a bit. Your brake hardware is steel, your inner two chainrings and all bolts on the crankset are probably steel (this is one of the big differences between the shimano cranksets - Deore, SLX, XT are all about the same with varying rings and hardware).


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## Mr. Lynch (Jun 11, 2010)

The Roval Controle wheels can be found under $300 and weight 1425g. They would cut your weight way down and save you some cash too. They are listed on clearance for $365 on the specialized site, but you should be able to talk your local Specialized dealer into getting you a set for under $300. They get them for WAY cheaper than that! I paid $280 for the set I put on my wife's bike. Specialized Bicycle Components : Roval Contrôle XC Race Disc Wheelset


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

WTF?

Bob


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## ihaveagibsonsg (Nov 29, 2010)

take off the made in taiwan sticker and replace it with a vtec sticker from a honda civic si. then it will be fast!!!!!!!!


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Ok, grabbed a few more things.

I'm replacing the Speedplay Frogs with some Deore XT M785 pedals. That's about 150g penalty, but I like the SPD style pedal better. 

I got the Easton EC70XC riser bars and some ESI grips. The bar swap pretty much negates the pedal penalty and the grips will save me about 30g.

Bob


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## trmn8er (Jun 9, 2011)

Mr. Lynch said:


> The Roval Controle wheels can be found under $300 and weight 1425g. They would cut your weight way down and save you some cash too. They are listed on clearance for $365 on the specialized site, but you should be able to talk your local Specialized dealer into getting you a set for under $300. They get them for WAY cheaper than that! I paid $280 for the set I put on my wife's bike. Specialized Bicycle Components : Roval Contrôle XC Race Disc Wheelset


I too just bought these from Spesh and paid 365, but still a good deal. I really like this wheelset, and they are SUPER light. I am not doing major hucks or anything crazy at my age, and in over 150 miles, they are perfectly straight, even with my 230 weight. I was 250 when I bought them, and still no issues. They are also tubeless friendly, and all I did was add Stan's since the rims came with liners, and spooned on my old spesh Armadillo Elite 2-Bliss 2.3" tires, and I am rollin!


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Been riding this bike a lot and I love it. Went back to the Speedplay Frogs, so weight is in the 26's. That said, I'm resurrecting an old steel 26" hard tail and I'm thinking that this would be a good chance to move some parts over and upgrade.

The crank has me the most intrigued. On this Cannondale, the Deore crankset weighs 857g. The BB cups weigh approx 100g. I'm guessing the adapters weigh about 30g. So...say 1000g total. 

I have not run a BB30 crank before. If I remove the crank and cups, am I in for a lot of drama to put a BB30 crank in there?

A nice 26/39 double in the 750g range would be ideal. I've looked at Sram X.9 and X.0. Cannondale has some very expensive BB30 cranks. I also looked at the FSA Afterburner which looks like it would be a lateral step. Slightly heavier than my current crank, but it's BB30 native.

Gimme some ideas! 

Thanks,
Bob


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## realconspiracy (Jan 22, 2011)

bobonker said:


> Been riding this bike a lot and I love it. Went back to the Speedplay Frogs, so weight is in the 26's. That said, I'm resurrecting an old steel 26" hard tail and I'm thinking that this would be a good chance to move some parts over and upgrade.
> 
> The crank has me the most intrigued. On this Cannondale, the Deore crankset weighs 857g. The BB cups weigh approx 100g. I'm guessing the adapters weigh about 30g. So...say 1000g total.
> 
> ...


Go SLX with some TA chainrings. Light and cheap


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## rayk (Feb 10, 2012)

*Tubeless?*

I may be missing something here, but have you not converted to tubeless yet? I believe that even converting a rim w/ a rim strip will save some weight, plus it is rotating weight, making it much more important. Also allows for improved traction and reduces flats. Setting them up isn't to much of a hassle either, I have the slant sixes and was able to seat them tubeless with an air pump.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

rayk: I haven't gone tubeless yet because I've been experimenting with different tires and having tubes makes it easier to do that. I figure going tubeless will save me 80-100g per wheel, so I plan on doing it soon. My wheels are UST capable, but the tires are not UST, so I've been researching how to do this properly.

Bob


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

Ok, doing more crankset research.

It looks like from a weight perspective, there's not really much difference between the SLX and XT cranksets? Both weight about 860g with bottom bracket (about 100g lighter than my current setup). The SLX crankset is $60 cheaper. Any reason to NOT use SLX?

The SRAM BB30 cranksets are all doubles and in the under $200 range, I can get an X7 in 26/39, but am a bit reluctant to give up the range of my triple. We've got some really steep stuff around here and I'd be giving up my granny gear. (11-34 cassette) A 26/34 is roughly equivalent to a 22/30 (my 2nd lowest gear). Using the SRAM X7 double should shed the most weight (close to 250g).

I guess I could give up my granny gear and man up!

The other option I've seen is the FSA afterburner crank. Same ratios that I have now and the crank is the same weight, but I'd lose the weight of the Shimano BB and adapter cups (~150g?).

Thanks,
Bob


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

Most of the weight savings between the slx and xt cranks is the rings and chainring bolts. I'd probably skip those just because there isn't a bb30 option. 


Does sram not make a 3 ring bb30 crankset?


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

SRAM does make an X7 in 3x10.

*Crank / Weight / Price*
Shimano SLX / 889g / $130
Shimano XT / 853g / $180
FSA Afterburner / 857g / $60
SRAM X7 double / 745g / $140
SRAM X7 triple / 830g / $205
SRAM X9 double / 785g / $190 (not sure this weight is correct)

Almost seems like I'd be best off getting the FSA crankset and getting some lighter rings for it. I haven't used any FSA MTB cranks, but I used several of their road cranks and they never shifted as well as Shimano or SRAM.

Bob


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## Ilikemtb999 (Oct 8, 2010)

Do you ever use the large ring? I'd just ditch that.


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## Stumpjumpy (Sep 7, 2011)

Nice work here - congrats! Nice bike. They really wake up w/ lighter wheels/tires.

I have an '11 RZ 120-2 medium that weighs 25lbs (down from 27). Came with a Lefty fork (only way to go!), XT grupp and carbon Hayes brakes.
Pic of it is in my gallery.

Mods:
Easton EC70 flat wide bar
ESI grips
San Marco aspide carbon saddle (130g)
FSA k-force post (lighter posts available, but I'm a Clyde)
Mavic SLR rims
RoRo tires tubeless
CB EB3 pedals
Aerozine post clamp (9g)

Added back some weight via computer, bar ends and larger rotors.


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## bobonker (Jan 30, 2012)

The bike is down to 26lb 8oz. Most recent things I did are:

- Converted to tubeless (about 100g of sealant per tire vs the 180g tube).
- Replaced the stock Deore crankset/BB/BB adapter (1000g) with the FSA Afterburner BB30 (880g). Not a huge savings here, but it was cheap.

I was planning on removing the outer ring of the new FSA crankset (which weighs ~85g), but the chainring bolts were too long. I also am not sure about how to stop my front derailleur from going past the middle ring if I remove the outer chainring. Do I need a different shifter or can I do it with the limit screw?

Thanks,
Bob


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## roblee (Sep 26, 2011)

You can grind down the ring bolts.I had to when adding a BBG ultra thin guard.The front derailleur stops worked fine for me.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

xc71 said:


> You sure can.
> S-Works 175mm MTB cranks = $300.00.
> Lightning spider = $60.00.
> Run any chainrings you want, Pictured are Extralite 32/22.


I cant seem to find any information on this crank on the specialized website anymore!


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## Stumpjumpy (Sep 7, 2011)

Specialized Bicycle Components


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

bobonker said:


> The bike is down to 26lb 8oz. Most recent things I did are:
> 
> - Converted to tubeless (about 100g of sealant per tire vs the 180g tube).
> - Replaced the stock Deore crankset/BB/BB adapter (1000g) with the FSA Afterburner BB30 (880g). Not a huge savings here, but it was cheap.
> ...


New chainring bolts (shorter) from your LBS and no, you don't need a new shifter. You can set your front derailleur to have one of the shifts be a "ghost" shift by limit screws and cable tension. Pretty typical for all of us who have run a double over the years using a triple FD shifter.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

Stumpjumpy said:


> Specialized Bicycle Components


Interesting.. thats the Specialized Canada site

If you go the Specialized USA site MTB cranks arent listed at all....


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