# Seatpost head moves side to side ... how to fix?



## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

Well like the title states ... my Titec setback seatpost's head moves from side to side, while the post remains stationary. 
(you can turn the seatpost head clockwise-counter clockwise ... although not far ... about an 1/8" or less)

It does take a bit of effort to move it; however you can feel it tilt a small bit when picking up the bike by it's saddle. It's in there enough that I cannot remove the headstock by pulling it out of the post ... but would imagine that it wouldn't take to much to do so. I also don't want it to fail a little time down the road.

I'm not looking to simply replace the seatpost.

What can I use to help to keep it more in place? 
(I'm not sure if it is bad to make it unmovable/solid)

Would Loctite Threadlocker work? Perhaps some epoxy for metal surfaces? 
If it would be OK to make it permanently unmovable/solid ... I could use some JB Weld.


Thanks for any words of advise.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

Without seeing and examining the seat post I cannot make any recommendation other than the one you don't want to hear: replace the seat post. Your risking your butt and your body.


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## Larry_K (Jul 10, 2010)

ubado said:


> I'm not looking to simply replace the seatpost.


I know you said it's not what you're looking to do but it's the only option I'd advise in this situation. A quick search at Jenson shows a Kalloy Laprade seatpost for $17.99 and it's available in all common sizes.

Larry


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Is the post move or just the seat clamp. I don't know how the seat clamp would move without rattling though. If anything locktite would make it worse. If it's the tightening issue then I'd just add grease and then torque it good. Got pic?


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

Thanks for the input ... although I wish it was telling me something different. 

Another thing is ... it's a setback post, which don't come too cheap.

So putting a bead of JB Weld wouldn't do the trick? 
(for those who are not familiar with the product ... it a cold weld that is strong up to 3960psi; you can grind, drill or machine it... pretty incredible stuff)


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

mimi1885 said:


> Is the post move or just the seat clamp. I don't know how the seat clamp would move without rattling though. If anything locktite would make it worse. If it's the tightening issue then I'd just add grease and then torque it good. Got pic?


Just the seat clamp (what I'm referring to as the seatpost head)
The post stays put, but the clamp will turn clockwise/counter clockwise ... just a bit. It does take some effort to do ... like straightening out your seat (so it's parallel to the top tube). It doesn't move while riding at all ... even with me twisting from side to side. Also, I can also pull it up about 1mm with effort ... then it sticks solid.

I just need something to keep it from moving and getting worse. At the moment I'm not worried about it. I'm mainly thinking about it over time ... perhaps getting easier and easier to move. I figure if I stop the movement now ... I can save the post.

No pics ... can take some tomorrow when there is enough light.

About the loctite ... I figured that if I used some loctite "green" , that it secure it since it's used to prevent loosening. At the moment, I'm really thinking that a bead of JB Weld when it is pulled up on that 1mm ... then set back down should keep it solid. Sure it may turn again in a hard crash ... but who knows. Besides, I'm not that heavy.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

This is not my post ... however it is a Titec Hellbent setback post just like this.

Circled in RED is the area I referring to (the head)

Circled in WHITE is the point where it moves 


I'll try to take some pics of the actual post and show how it moves (the best I can) tomorrow.


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

Ahh! Got it. That's a defect. I'd contact Titec and send them pic or vid before any attempt to fix it myself. Who knows? they may send you another one for free. If they don't then just try to fix it.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestion mimi1885! I hadn't even thought of that. It's worth a shot.

At the moment I can live with the post the way it as (since it doesn't move when riding), I just don't want it to get any worse. If Titec won't cover it ... then I rig it. 


... I'm still open to any fix suggestions in case Titec doesn't come through.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

Well I called Titec ... they were willing to send me a new post no questions asked.

Unfortunately, they no longer make or carry "lay-back" seat posts ... instead they offered a Hellbent Honcho Expert straight seatpost with 15mm set-back _(they did not have any Prolite's with a set-back in stock)._ When I told them that I wasn't interested in a straight post with a set-back ... they offered me some handlebars instead.

Since I totally dig my lay-back post ... I declined their offers ... and opted to keep the post.
_(frankly, I'd rather try and fix the post; than trade it for something I don't need)_

With that, I bounced some of my ideas of how to secure the head in the post better.
He was in agreement that JB Weld should do the job ... at least what I am expecting of it. And it wouldn't make things worse. Heck it's already broken ... it's not going to break anymore.
_(please note: In no way do I believe that the employee was speaking in behalf of Titec, or is an authority on the subject. The results are at my own risk)_

After a rather hard ride today ... the seatpost head moved a bit easier than normal ... but still, not when riding. It doens't move up from the post any more than it did prior (even hitting it with a hard plastic mallet). So I went ahead and ran a bead of JB Weld around the headstock, and hammered it back down into spot. The JB filled the seam nicely. I will revisit this post after a few rides to tell the status of the mend.

** I gotta give Titec kudos for their willingness to replace my post with no questions asked. Eventhough my seatpost was flawed ... I will purchase from Titec again. Great customer service!


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

ubado said:


> Well I called Titec ... they were willing to send me a new post no questions asked.
> 
> Unfortunately, they no longer make or carry "lay-back" seat posts ... instead they offered a Hellbent Honcho Expert straight seatpost with 15mm set-back _(they did not have any Prolite's with a set-back in stock)._ When I told them that I wasn't interested in a straight post with a set-back ... they offered me some handlebars instead.
> 
> ...


Does your bike not fit properly? I would jump on a new seatpost as your current one can not be fixed without an unreliable solution. The only usual reason to ride one of those lay back posts is because you're trying to force a fit on an odd frame for you. Have you ever had your fit looked at by a professional? I'd say take the new seatpost and look up how to fit your saddle fore/aft position.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

The bike fits fine ... I actually prefer lay-back seat posts. 
I find them to be quite beneficial on steep rooty climbs; getting a bit extra weight on the back tire. I prefer a shorter stem, so it helps to stretch the cock pit a bit. Also when I'm off the saddle on a steep downhill ... I'm that much closer to my seat ... which I like. It seems to help keep me out of the saddle more. And yup, I like the little extra room I get in the cockpit for those slow speed, tight, technical areas. Besides ... they look cool too. 

As far as turning it in for a "new" seatpost ... well, I have another seatpost, which is just as light, with a nice amount of set-back ... so gaining yet another seatpost isn't what I need/want. 

When it comes to the mend being unreliable ... well the jury is still out about that. 
I've been using JB Weld for years on farm & yard equipment ... heck, I was turned onto the product by a welder ... so I'm pretty confident in it working. Just don't know for how long ... could be a few months ... could be years. Who knows? With 3900 psi tensile strength, and 1800 psi adhesion ... it's strong stuff. The only thing that makes me wonder is; being able to get a large enough surface area (ie. the amount of the gap filled) to gain the best adhesion strength.


... and yup, I ride with some folks from my LBS ... so yea on the "professional" thing ... also, I already know how to properly fit my saddle ... just because I'm new-ish to MTBing ... doesn't mean I'm new to bikes. Thanks though. 


Anyhoo ... I'll revisit this thread after a number of rides to say how it worked. Who know's ... perhaps someone might end up with a simular issue, and wonder how to fix it ... instead of just junking it.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Does that thing really have more setback than an ordinary setback post?

Nitto makes something, carried by Rivendell, that might also address your desire.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Does that thing really have more setback than an ordinary setback post?
> 
> Nitto makes something, carried by Rivendell, that might also address your desire.


Yea, the setback is about 25mm ... so a good 10mm more than the seatpost Titec was offering (15mm). And I already have a 15mm setback post. Since I'm in between bike sizes and I oped for the smaller ... and it has a shorter stem; my saddle had to be set back a bit further than really it should. With the layback post ... I'm able to set the saddle about in the middle of the rails; thus gaining that extra amount of shock absorption. With my layback post ... I have it set an additional 5-7mm more that the typical 15mm posts. Not too much more ... but to me ... it makes such a difference with uphills and downhills.

That Rivendell Lugged seatpost is KILLER!!! 
A bit spendy for my blood though.

Frankly, if the JB Weld doesn't do the job ... I might just get it tack-welded. It would still be cheaper to give a local welder a few bucks to tack it in a couple spots; than it would to get a new one, or even a used replacement. 
Besides it having a loose headstock ... the post is solid ... why ditch it, if it can be mended. That's my philosophy though ... try and fix things. If they can't be fixed ... then replace them. But first try.


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## cleon (Oct 30, 2010)

Sounds like a catastrophic failure waiting to happen.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Rivendell has some nice stuff, but it's usually really expensive. They also have a thing about racing bikes. Which is too bad - one of my justifications for throwing a lot of money at a bike is that it's one I race. I use a $95 12-speed for the tasks that Rivendell celebrates. I guess it's kind of hard to justify anything more expensive than a cookie-cutter carbon fiber frame for racing purposes, and they're getting less and less expensive. So the artisanal companies had better figure out another way to sell.

I have to say, if you can put your saddle in the correct position on an ordinary setback post, I doubt you'd be able to tell where the clamp was by feel.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

cleon said:


> Sounds like a catastrophic failure waiting to happen.


Please discribe your idea of a catastrophic failure.

IMO ... the post already had a failure, as the headstock was able to be moved. What worse could happen?... the hold doesn't last and it moves again? If that's the case ... I get a new post, or just slap my old one back on. Anyway the headstock never moved while I was riding (on the saddle) ... so something worse happening, while on the saddle, due to the mend is unlikely. Chances are ... if the mend doesn't hold it will just go back to doing the same thing. Then I could just replace it, or have it spot welded ... can't argue with a weld being a permanent mend for my use. I'm not that heavy.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

not worth the risk of rigging it, unless you want a metal bar lodged in your colon.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

mack_turtle said:


> not worth the risk of rigging it, unless you want a metal bar lodged in your colon.


... it was a million to one shot Doc ... a million to one. _(Jerry Stiller, Seinfeld)_ 

In order for saddle to come off the post ... or more to the point, out of ... the headstock mounting bracket part would have to bend backwards enough to pull the connecting end out of the down-post; without snapping. Thus popping it out like a cork.

There isn't anything wrong with the actual post ... or the headstock itself ... so it snapping isn't any more of a concern than it was prior to the issue. Both the post and the headstock/bracket are fine ... the headstock would turn while seated in the post. That is all. And again ... not while I was riding. If anything, it was more of a nuisance that it was a safety concern. I just didn't want it to become any more of a nuisance. If I thought it was a safety concern ... I would have traded it in for something to sell off ... limiting my losses.

The only thing I did to the headstock was to make it set in a fixed position ... as it was before the issue. If the seatpost is going to snap/break ... my mend isn't going to be the reason.


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## ubado (Oct 5, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I have to say, if you can put your saddle in the correct position on an ordinary setback post, I doubt you'd be able to tell where the clamp was by feel.


Sorry for the confusion ... I didn't mean an amount that I can feel in your butt. 

I should have written "flex" in relationship to having it too close to the frontside bend in the rails. Not as much shock absorption.

If I do end up replacing the post ... I'll most likely go with a Thomson layback. Although it doesn't look like they have as much setback ... they're still good posts for the $$.


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