# Upgrading my KTM Ultra 1964



## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Hello,

I'm João from Portugal and I'm looking to get some upgrades for my bike. I'm somewhat new to the sport so I'm looking for some help.

I currently have a KTM Ultra 1964 29er Fox Limited Edition. Here are the original specs:

FRAME: Ultra 29 Aluminum 6061-3TB M:1441
FRONT SUSPENSION/FORK: FOX 32 Float 29 O/C, CTD, 100mm
STEM: KTM Line 7º
HEADSET: KTM Team Drop-In, 1.1/8' - 1.1/8'
BAR: KTM Line 2X-Flat, 700mm
BRAKES: Shimano M396
FRONT DISC: Shimano RT54 180mm
REAR DISC: Shimano RT54 180mm
BRAKE LEVERS: Shimano Deore M610
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore M611
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano XT M781 Shadow
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore M612 (40-30-22)
BB-SET: Shimano BB51-UnitBSA
CASSETTE: Shimano HG50 10v (11-36)
PEDALS: VP-195-E
RIMS/WHEELSET: KTM Line 29 Ambrosio/Deore
TYRES: Schwalbe Rapid Rob 29x2.10 K-Guard
FRONT HUB: Shimano RM66 - 100/9 QR CL
REAR HUB: Shimano RM66 - 135/9 QR CL
GRIP: KTM Line Gel
SADDLE: KTM VL-1489
SEATPOST: KTM Team 400x27.2mm
WEIGHT: 13,0 kg

After I bought it I replaced my grips for some ESI Grips Extra Chunky. Some time later I changed the complete braking system for the Shimano XT (discs, brakes and levers).

I also bought the Shimano XT trail pedals (SPD-M785) and I got a pair of Mavic Rush.

Now I'm looking to changing my wheels but I cannot afford the Crossmax and I think it's a complete overkill for a 1000€ bike. What are my other choices with a more appealing price?

Other upgrades I have in mind for later this year are the drivetrain (change the complete drivetrain including levers for the Shimano XT) and trying to make it lose some weight without touching the frame.

Thank you for your time.


João


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

I would upgrade the fork damper to a FIT and go with Fox Gold oil.
For a performance and weight improvement I would build 30mm inside dimension rims with Dt 350 hubs and Sapim Laser spokes with brass nipples. Hibike has them along with Bontrager XR1 2.2 Team or Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.25 tires.
I have good luck with Carbonbicycle rims.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> I would upgrade the fork damper to a FIT and go with Fox Gold oil.
> For a performance and weight improvement I would build 30mm inside dimension rims with Dt 350 hubs and Sapim Laser spokes with brass nipples. Hibike has them along with Bontrager XR1 2.2 Team or Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.25 tires.
> I have good luck with Carbonbicycle rims.


I like the idea of upgrading my fork but it gets really expensive from the prices I've seen here in Portugal.

As for the wheels, I have a budget of around 400€ to spend. I hear many people talking about the ZTR Crest but, as I said, I'm fairly new to this and I don't know the differences between brands, models, etc.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> I like the idea of upgrading my fork but it gets really expensive from the prices I've seen here in Portugal.
> 
> As for the wheels, I have a budget of around 400€ to spend. I hear many people talking about the ZTR Crest but, as I said, I'm fairly new to this and I don't know the differences between brands, models, etc.


Crests are too flexy and skinny(21 inside) for the long-run, imo.
Save for a better wheelset option and ride what you have for awhile. Lacing your own carbon rims is easy because of the stiffness of carbon but will cost you about 650.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> Crests are too flexy and skinny(21 inside) for the long-run, imo.
> Save for a better wheelset option and ride what you have for awhile. Lacing your own carbon rims is easy because of the stiffness of carbon but will cost you about 650.


But wouldn't 650€ be a overkill for a 1000€ bike? I'm trying to find something that has a good ratio of price/quality, having in consideration that I don't have a great bike.


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

I think if you are riding XC and you are not too heavy, a pair of Crests would be a nice upgrade. I can't think of a good lightweight wheel that is a better value.

Light wheels and going tubeless are a good upgrade.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Loch said:


> I think if you are riding XC and you are not too heavy, a pair of Crests would be a nice upgrade. I can't think of a good lightweight wheel that is a better value.
> 
> Light wheels and going tubeless are a good upgrade.


I used to weight around 115 kg. I bought the bike and went to the gym and was able to reduce my weight to around 94 kg now. I might get some more weight or I might lose some more. I don't know at this time. Would the Crest be safe for me?


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

No. I would go with something a little stronger. 

Maybe Stans Arch EX (1775g). 

See how heavy your original wheels are. If you can lose about 500g from a wheel upgrade, IMO it would be worth it.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Loch said:


> No. I would go with something a little stronger.
> 
> Maybe Stans Arch EX (1775g).
> 
> See how heavy your original wheels are. If you can loose about 500g from a wheel upgrade, IMO it would be worth it.


You mean 500 g on both wheels right?
I just checked the Stans No Tubes Arch EX and they look nice too but just a little bit heavier.
But these are just the wheels. What about the hubs and the spokes? What should I choose?


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

Yes, 500g for both wheels including spokes, hubs etc.

I was thinking you were going to buy the wheelset already built (rims+ spokes/nipples+ hubs).

Are you planning on getting wheels built or did you want to buy them already made?

Usually the term wheel refers to the whole thing (rim/spokes/hubs).


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Loch said:


> Yes, 500g for both wheels including spokes, hubs etc.
> 
> I was thinking you were going to buy the wheelset already built (rims+ spokes/nipples+ hubs).
> 
> ...


Yes, I would prefer buying the complete wheel. I just don't know where to find them. I only see the rims when I'm looking for them...

I see some people talking about these rims with Swiss DT 240S hubs and some spokes which I don't recall. As I said, I just don't know where to buy them.


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

Yes, those are great hubs, but quite expensive. 

If you can find Stan's wheels already built, that will be the best value.

Having someone build a wheelset can get expensive.  Can you do it in your budget?

If are going to have wheels built, I can recommend some other rims.

These are all wider than the Stan's ARCH EX maybe stiffer, but not as expensive as carbon rims.

WTB KOM i23 or i25.
Velocity Blunt SS

Check them out. Don't know if they are available in your area.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Loch said:


> Yes, those are great hubs, but quite expensive.
> 
> If you can find Stan's wheels already built, that will be the best value.
> 
> ...


Do you know any online store in the EU where I can buy the Arch EX online and ship them to Portugal?


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## cmg (Mar 13, 2012)

http://www.actionsports.de/en/

On this site you can 'design' your own wheels, see how you go


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

Sorry, Best I can do. This is from the Stan's Notubes website. International Distributors

Portugal Distributor.

Raiz da Aventura Unipessoal, Lda

Rua dos Olhos D'água, N.º15
Brenha - Figueira da Foz 3080-437
Phone: +233919176

Website: Raiz da Aventura - Importação e Distribuição de Bicicletas e Acessórios


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## Loch (Apr 29, 2011)

cmg71 said:


> Action Sports Bike Onlineshop
> 
> On this site you can 'design' your own wheels, see how you go


This is fun! I just built...

Fun Works N-light EVO IS hubs (any good????)
Fun Works Atmosphere XL rim (23mm inside diameter 450g/rim) any good ????
DT Swiss revolution spokes (good)
Alloy nipples
25mm tubeless kit.

1630g for 390 euros +shipping?

That's a good price for a seemingly nice lightweight wheelset (I have no experience with the brand).


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> But wouldn't 650€ be a overkill for a 1000€ bike? I'm trying to find something that has a good ratio of price/quality, having in consideration that I don't have a great bike.


A wheelset goes with you to your next better bike.
Getting hubs with changeable endcaps lets you use the wheels for 15mm thru front and 142x12 rear on your next bike. Even a $4000 bike can often come with a low quality set of wheels.
The Ryde Trace 29 rim is wide enough.
Ryde Trace Enduro 29 disc black 29er | low prices







A Carbonbicycle 35/30 is better and lighter.







Hookless 29er DH&AM&XC carbon rim tubeless compatible, 36.00/35.00/30.00mm&27.00mm(XC) wide - carbon rim (hookless) - Carbon Bicycle, Carbon Frame, Carbon Rims, Carbon Wheels, Carbon Wheelsets, Carbon Mountain Bike, Carbon Road Bike, Carbon Handlebar

The weights have changed.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Loch said:


> This is fun! I just built...
> 
> Fun Works N-light EVO IS hubs (any good????)
> Fun Works Atmosphere XL rim (23mm inside diameter 450g/rim) any good ????
> ...


I also found that wheel set. Still pretty confused with all the models and options.



eb1888 said:


> A wheelset goes with you to your next better bike.
> Getting hubs with changeable endcaps lets you use the wheels for 15mm thru front and 142x12 rear on your next bike. Even a $4000 bike can often come with a low quality set of wheels.
> The Ryde Trace 29 rim is wide enough.
> Ryde Trace Enduro 29 disc black 29er | low prices
> ...


Yes, I do understand that good wheels can carry on to the next bike. The big problem is that I can't afford more than around 400€ for some new wheels. Thats why I'm looking for a solution in this price range.
Some people tell me to forget the weight question on a 13 kg bike and to just go with the Mavic Crossride or Crossroc.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> I also found that wheel set. Still pretty confused with all the models and options.
> 
> Yes, I do understand that good wheels can carry on to the next bike. The big problem is that I can't afford more than around 400€ for some new wheels. Thats why I'm looking for a solution in this price range.
> Some people tell me to forget the weight question on a 13 kg bike and to just go with the Mavic Crossride or Crossroc.


If you do a little more reading you'll see wide rims becoming a performance upgrade. Mavic makes road wheels with very skinny rims they then try to use as a mtb wheel. They perform poorly and use hard to find spokes. Skinny rims do not support the tire sidewall much. The rims pictured will. You won't washout from tire foldover. You'll be much safer and can ride faster without crashing. Plus you get more traction and volume for a softer ride because you can run at 4-5 psi less tire pressure with a bigger tread footprint.


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## elcaro1101 (Sep 1, 2011)

Here is an option from Wiggle, free delivery from the UK to Portugal.

wiggle.com | Hope Pro 2 Evo Tech Enduro 29er Wheelset | MTB Wheels

They also have the "SP" version that has straight pull spokes. Option saves a bit of weight from each spoke, and can be built up with higher tension than a "J-bend" spoke. For every day riders, this will be very hard to notice.

These wheels can accept any current axle standards, so can be used on this and future bikes if you wanted.

I am a big fan of Hope hubs, use them on both of my wheelsets.


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## elcaro1101 (Sep 1, 2011)

eb1888 said:


> If you do a little more reading you'll see wide rims becoming a performance upgrade. Mavic makes road wheels with very skinny rims they then try to use as a mtb wheel. They perform poorly and use hard to find spokes. Skinny rims do not support the tire sidewall much. The rims pictured will. You won't washout from tire foldover. You'll be much safer and can ride faster without crashing. Plus you get more traction and volume for a softer ride because you can run at 4-5 psi less tire pressure with a bigger tread footprint.


You post wheel building advice to nearly everybody asking hub/rim/wheelset questions. While the majority of your statements about part price and performance are correct, it just isn't as easy as you try to make it for some random person to jump into building a wheel.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

elcaro1101 said:


> You post wheel building advice to nearly everybody asking hub/rim/wheelset questions. While the majority of your statements about part price and performance are correct, it just isn't as easy as you try to make it for some random person to jump into building a wheel.


Of course you're right, it seems especially for wheels with picking the right length spokes and hubs with changeable endcaps and all.
But everything in mtbiking is often just something you don't know yet. Nothing is complicated to the point where an ordinary rider can't grasp it with a hour of dedicated effort.... all for their own direct benefit. Carbon rims are the simplest for a beginner to be successful lacing. They are extra stiff and because of that easier to get dished and true. You do need a good 4-sided spoke wrench, Permatex anti-seize compound(imo) and a Park TM-1 Tension gauge. The rest is patience and a little research. Every single rider can do it.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

I honestly don't have the expertise necessary for building my own wheels. Most of the terms you used are unknown to me TBH.
I prefer going with something pre made that costs around 400€.

Any ideas on kits around this price and respective online stores?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## elcaro1101 (Sep 1, 2011)

Link in my post above, #20.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

elcaro1101 said:


> Link in my post above, #20.


Yes, I saw the link to Wiggle. I'm talking about other stores with brands like Stan's No Tubes and DT Swiss hubs.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Of course you don't have the expertise, no one does at first. 
But you can spend 1 hour of effort and be heading to the other end of the spectrum.
Spend an hour here:
Wheels How to build, maintain and evaluate your own wheels


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> Of course you don't have the expertise, no one does at first.
> But you can spend 1 hour of effort and be heading to the other end of the spectrum.
> Spend an hour here:
> Wheels How to build, maintain and evaluate your own wheels


Hmm, things just got a bit more difficult buy yet more interesting.


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## elcaro1101 (Sep 1, 2011)

A wheelset with DT350 hubs or X9 hubs(same as DT350) are going to be in your price range, 240 hubs are not.

Finding that wheelset from a EU vendor, I cant help much beyond Wiggle. They, Merlin, and chainreactioncycles are the only EU sites I have ordered from.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

elcaro1101 said:


> A wheelset with DT350 hubs or X9 hubs(same as DT350) are going to be in your price range, 240 hubs are not.
> 
> Finding that wheelset from a EU vendor, I cant help much beyond Wiggle. They, Merlin, and chainreactioncycles are the only EU sites I have ordered from.


I thought that the DT 240s were more cheaper. Now that I'm looking carefuly I'm probably going with the DT 350 hubs. As for the wheels I'm still tempted with the Stan's No Tubes Arch EX. I'm only missing the spokes I believe (this is because I can't find a pair of Stan's No Tubes Arch EX without the hubs).


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> I thought that the DT 240s were more cheaper. Now that I'm looking carefuly I'm probably going with the DT 350 hubs. As for the wheels I'm still tempted with the Stan's No Tubes Arch EX. I'm only missing the spokes I believe (this is because I can't find a pair of Stan's No Tubes Arch EX without the hubs).


Too bad you aren't local. I unlaced an ArchEx rim to use the older Dt 340 rear hub for a 35/30 wide carbon rim rebuild last year. It's just sitting around now. I will not be going back to less sidewall support.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

elcaro1101 said:


> A wheelset with DT350 hubs or X9 hubs(same as DT350) are going to be in your price range, 240 hubs are not.
> 
> Finding that wheelset from a EU vendor, I cant help much beyond Wiggle. They, Merlin, and chainreactioncycles are the only EU sites I have ordered from.


I'm currently looking at DT Swiss 350 hubs and Stan's NoTubes ZTR Arch EX. Any idea for what should I choose as spokes and nipples? And what about tubeless kits and new tubeless tires?



eb1888 said:


> Too bad you aren't local. I unlaced an ArchEx rim to use the older Dt 340 rear hub for a 35/30 wide carbon rim rebuild last year. It's just sitting around now. I will not be going back to less sidewall support.


Yeah, too bad :x. Either way, I'm still reading the page you told me to. Very interesting. Probably for my next wheel adventure when I get a better bike.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

jncunha said:


> I'm currently looking at DT Swiss 350 hubs and Stan's NoTubes ZTR Arch EX. Any idea for what should I choose as spokes and nipples? And what about tubeless kits and new tubeless tires?


So, what do you guys this it's a good tubeless tire combo to combine with the ZTR Arch EX and the DT Swiss 350 hubs? I currently use 2 Schwalbe Rapid Rob.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> So, what do you guys this it's a good tubeless tire combo to combine with the ZTR Arch EX and the DT Swiss 350 hubs? I currently use 2 Schwalbe Rapid Rob.


Tire selection is very local terrain dependent. Schwalbe Rocket Rons and Nobby Nics could work.
If you aren't going for a wide rim the FlowEx is the same price as an ArchEx and at least a little wider but slightly heavier. Better but not as good as 30mm. 
If you can find a 30mm inside rim that fits in your budget, even at a little weight penalty, the performance gain will be big from the added sidewall support, increased volume and lower pressure you can run.
The much higher washout threshold is something you won't give up once you ride with it.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

jncunha said:


> But wouldn't 650€ be a overkill for a 1000€ bike? I'm trying to find something that has a good ratio of price/quality, having in consideration that I don't have a great bike.


You're on track here IMO.

I wouldn't be wasting time and money trying to put build up a fancy flavor-of-the-month wheelset. I've had decent luck with prebuilt Mavics like the Crosstrails, etc. I'm sure I've put them through a lot more than some of the posters recommending you copy their set-ups have and they've done fine. Currently beating the hell out of a set of Stans ArchEx on Sun hubs and they're doing fine too.

You don't have to spend a ton to get decent and usable equipment that performs fine. Trying to keep up with the very latest trends though can get expensive, and usually the 'advantages' are minimal if even noticeable IME (riding and building since 1990).


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> Tire selection is very local terrain dependent. Schwalbe Rocket Rons and Nobby Nics could work.
> If you aren't going for a wide rim the FlowEx is the same price as an ArchEx and at least a little wider but slightly heavier. Better but not as good as 30mm.
> If you can find a 30mm inside rim that fits in your budget, even at a little weight penalty, the performance gain will be big from the added sidewall support, increased volume and lower pressure you can run.
> The much higher washout threshold is something you won't give up once you ride with it.


You meant a pair of solo Rocket Ron or Nobby Nic or combining both?



slapheadmofo said:


> You're on track here IMO.
> 
> I wouldn't be wasting time and money trying to put build up a fancy flavor-of-the-month wheelset. I've had decent luck with prebuilt Mavics like the Crosstrails, etc. I'm sure I've put them through a lot more than some of the posters recommending you copy their set-ups have and they've done fine. Currently beating the hell out of a set of Stans ArchEx on Sun hubs and they're doing fine too.
> 
> You don't have to spend a ton to get decent and usable equipment that performs fine. Trying to keep up with the very latest trends though can get expensive, and usually the 'advantages' are minimal if even noticeable IME (riding and building since 1990).


Thank you for your answer. Can you please tell me how much do you weight? I'm a little afraid of my weight and the ZTR Arch EX capacity.


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## slapheadmofo (Jun 9, 2006)

I'm about 175lb, probably 190 geared up. Live in New England, so lots of rocks and roots, and I'm not a smooth rider by any means. 

Also, if you're not too worried about weight (which I tend not to) Azonic Outlaws are a good tough option for pretty short money. I've run these on a number of bikes also.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

slapheadmofo said:


> I'm about 175lb, probably 190 geared up. Live in New England, so lots of rocks and roots, and I'm not a smooth rider by any means.
> 
> Also, if you're not too worried about weight (which I tend not to) Azonic Outlaws are a good tough option for pretty short money. I've run these on a number of bikes also.


I weight around 208-210. I live in Portugal and I do ride some trails. I also have lots of stones and roots on the ground in certain areas.
But since I live in a city, I often ride on the road.
What's the rider weight limit for the ZTR Arch EX?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> You meant a pair of solo Rocket Ron or Nobby Nic or combining both?


This is where you experiment based on your terrain conditions. NN front and Rocket on the rear should roll faster than NN front and rear. Some of this is going to be more dependent on your rim width than you think. A wide rim ups tire performance of any tire with a compatible round profile by a lot more than just going to a wider more aggressive tread pattern does. So you could get more grip out of faster rolling Rocket Rons because of the added sidewall support and ability to run them at 4-5 psi less pressure when you use 30mm wide rims. More than NNs front and rear on a 21mm rim.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> I would upgrade the fork damper to a FIT and go with Fox Gold oil.


Now that I have cleared my doubts about which wheels to get for my bike, I'd like to learn a bit more about my suspension.
I do know that my Evolution 32 Float is a low-end fork. But, would the 2015 FIT upgrade by FOX make it a lot better?
How do I know which FOX forks can be upgraded to the 2015 FIT? Is there a compatibility list?

I'm sorry for bringing this topic to life once again, but I think it's better to continue in this one instead of opening a new one.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> I'd like to learn a bit more about my suspension.
> I do know that my Evolution 32 Float is a low-end fork. But, would the 2015 FIT upgrade by FOX make it a lot better?
> How do I know which FOX forks can be upgraded to the 2015 FIT? Is there a compatibility list?


It's not a low end fork, it just has a very low end damper. It's a 2014 bike so the current FIT damper will go in. Ask your dealer to contact Fox in Europe for you. In the US Fox offers dissatisfied owners the upgrade for about $150. It makes a major improvement in your fork performance. 
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/fox-fit-2015-damper-upgrade-vs-new-fork-worth-941042.html
Fox AM Oil Bath 32Oz/ 20wt GOLD | Fork and Shock Oil Shop


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> It's not a low end fork, it just has a very low end damper. It's a 2014 bike so the current FIT damper will go in. Ask your dealer to contact Fox in Europe for you. In the US Fox offers dissatisfied owners the upgrade for about $150. It makes a major improvement in your fork performance.
> http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/fox-fit-2015-damper-upgrade-vs-new-fork-worth-941042.html
> Fox AM Oil Bath 32Oz/ 20wt GOLD | Fork and Shock Oil Shop


So, if I understood correctly, it's FOX Europe that does the upgrade? I guess we have to ship the fork there and wait for them to ship it back with the upgrade.

If the fork goes to FOX Europe, will they use that gold oil you suggested?

I do feel that the forks needs to improve but I have to say that I think it's not only because of the update but from the adjustment of rebound and compression.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> So, if I understood correctly, it's FOX Europe that does the upgrade? I guess we have to ship the fork there and wait for them to ship it back with the upgrade.
> 
> If the fork goes to FOX Europe, will they use that gold oil you suggested?
> 
> I do feel that the forks needs to improve but I have to say that I think it's not only because of the update but from the adjustment of rebound and compression.


You just need the damper and oil from them or the oil from another source.
You can do the service. It's a skill worth taking a little time to master because that fork likes being serviced more so then other options.
Watch the videos and you will get it down quickly.
Tech Tuesday Fox Fork Rebuild Video - Pinkbike
Tech Tuesday - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service - Pinkbike


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> You just need the damper and oil from them or the oil from another source.
> You can do the service. It's a skill worth taking a little time to master because that fork likes being serviced more so then other options.
> Watch the videos and you will get it down quickly.
> Tech Tuesday Fox Fork Rebuild Video - Pinkbike
> Tech Tuesday - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service - Pinkbike


Thank you eb1888. I was on the phone with a FOX authorized dealer in Portugal and they do the FIT upgrade. They take around 200€ for the job. We're talking about 225$. A little more expensive than the prices I see people talking on the threads you showed me.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

jncunha said:


> Thank you eb1888. I was on the phone with a FOX authorized dealer in Portugal and they do the FIT upgrade. They take around 200€ for the job. We're talking about 225$. A little more expensive than the prices I see people talking on the threads you showed me.


Those riders talked to Fox tech support directly in the US. That's how they got lower part pricing. Your price probably includes the service by the dealer, so it is reasonable. You'll have no regrets.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

eb1888 said:


> Those riders talked to Fox tech support directly in the US. That's how they got lower part pricing. Your price probably includes the service by the dealer, so it is reasonable. You'll have no regrets.


Nice! Thank you for the advice. They asked for my fork serial number. I'm going to email it to them on Monday.

Now, in another topic, my Mavic Rush shoes and my Shimano PD-785 pedals have arrived and I'm going to finally make the bike fit.
At the end they are probably going to tell me to change either my stem, seat post or handlebar.
If I change any of the parts, I'm going to look for something really light and resistant. Do you guys recommend any brand/model for these parts?

Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

Going wider will create cockpit room and can be combined with a shorter stem for better steering control. Balance is affected with the seatpost setback and seat positioning so you have to integrate the choices to retain good cornering control.
I use these light stems off ebay from China. Only the versions with this graphic and weight of 94g for a 70mm for example.
New Uno Ultralight MTB Road 31 8 x 70mm Stem 94g Black | eBay
I have used Easton and Bontrager carbon bars and currently use lo rise 720mm 9* sweep.


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

I'm picking up this topic again to share my doubts.

I know I'm going to change my bike wheels but in the meantime, while I'm using tubes, my tires got all weared out. I currently have the Schwalbe Rapid Rob 2.10.
I need to change the tires but I'm a bit confused with the market.

Here are my 3 choices:

- Rocket Ron
- Nobby Nic
- Racing Ralph

I don't run only trails. I do some pavement too (so I need to roll in the middle of the traffic). Nevertheless I run some XC trails near home and I need the tire performance for there too.
I'm willing to combine 2 different tires but can any of you help me choose them? Should I stick with 2.10?

Thank you!


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

In my LBS they told me to try the Maxxis Crossmark. I'm giving them a chance. I'll go for the Schwalbe combo when I get my new wheels.

In the meantime can anyone explain me the difference between Shimano M780, M781 and M782 on the drive-train group-sets? I'm going to upgrade for the Shimano XT 10 speed but I'm having some doubts on which one to choose. Are these reference numbers related with the fixing method of the derailleurs?


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## Midwest Mud (Mar 19, 2016)

Overall are you happy with your KTM Ultra? I am looking at possibly purchasing this bike. Would you recommend this bike to others?


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

Midwest Mud said:


> Overall are you happy with your KTM Ultra? I am looking at possibly purchasing this bike. Would you recommend this bike to others?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you talking about the 1964 Ultra? I like the bike but I've already done some upgrades to it. I upgraded the brakes to XT and bought a set of Mavic Crossride. I was aiming for the ZTR Arch EX with Hope hubs but it would become too expensive for me.
The next upgrades will be to change my transmission to 1x11 XT and go tubeless.
Later, maybe I'll buy a new handlebar, stem, seat post and saddle to lose some weight.

I did almost 4000 km's with the bike without upgrade and I'm very happy with everything in it. I'm a newbie rider and this is my first bike so I can't give you a comparison to other brands/models.

If you like it, go for it.


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## Midwest Mud (Mar 19, 2016)

What size frame are you riding? How tall are you and what is your standover height? I am trying to get a gauge of what the KTM's are like. Thanks for your feedback!


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## jncunha (May 31, 2015)

I ride a 21". I have 1,90 m and I weight around 90 kg. When I started riding the KTM I had around 112 kg (about a year ago).


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