# 2010 Lyrik DH 170mm Coil = OMFG!



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

Time for a glowing review!  

I've only been on this fork for a short while, but even so, it has blown me away. And it isn't even fully broken in or custom tuned yet. :devil: 

Better than the 2009 66 RC3 it replaced in terms of damping and weight. No where close to as stiff, but that was to be expected when dropping nearly 2 pounds. Better damping than any other fork I've tried, including PUSHed ones. Regular Mission and Motion Control feel like garbage in comparison now. 

Out of the box, I was expecting no lube inside. WRONG! Someone at the assembly factory was having a good day. Everything inside was lubed perfectly. I added some grease to the seals, but it didn't need it. Foot bolts were a little on the loose side for torque, so I would check yours before riding. 

Compared to my other Lyrik, all the knobs have much more pronounced clicks, with a very noticeable change between each. 

Riding the fork:

- Incredible ability to stay high in the travel, but just gobbly butter on all the bumps. 
- Turning up low speed compression actually makes the fork run smoother to a certain point. What proper LSC should do. 
- Even though the fork is 10mm longer than my other Lyrik, it feels stiffer out of the box. Not sure if there is more bushing (or tighter) in there. 
- Rebound damping is bloody amazing! You can run it pretty damn slow for medium and small hits (which irons them out into nothing) but on harder hits it opens up more and recovers great. This trait also allows the rider to yank the front wheel up easily, regardless of running the rebound a bit on the slow side. 
- Even though I weigh more than the stock spring should hold and I use more sag than I thought I should be, this fork rides high in its travel. I didn't make any change to the rear shock and the bike feels just as balanced as it did with the much taller 180mm fork. I can get away with running a bit more damping without any sacrifice to plushness. 

Possible tuning options. 
- Instead of opening up the rebound assembly to adjust the high speed shims, I think it would be possible to use a lighter or heavier oil and then compensate with the adjustment ranges of the other damping circuits. 


I now have another DH damper coming for my other Lyrik. :thumbsup:

Worst thing about this fork is that it did not come in black.


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## SHIVER ME TIMBERS (Jan 12, 2004)

nice write....congrats to:thumbsup: you


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## 08nwsula (Oct 19, 2005)

nice write up


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## captain spaulding (May 7, 2006)

YoPawn said:


> Worst thing about this fork is that it did not come in black.


That sounds like the best reason to get the fork 

Good review, I've been waiting to hear about the new Lyrik DH's... basically looking for a reason to throw my 55 ata in the garbage..


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

captain spaulding said:


> That sounds like the best reason to get the fork
> 
> Good review, I've been waiting to hear about the new Lyrik DH's... basically looking for a reason to throw my 55 ata in the garbage..


I might swap it with the lowers from my other fork if they are the same inside.

55 ATA? Yuck! Yeah, this fork would make you cry that you went so long on the ATA.


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## norcosam (Sep 27, 2008)

I am going to agree with YoPawn the Lyriks are simply stunning had mine for a few months now.
I have the 170mm DH

Have them fitted to my Nicolai FR and WOW.They are simply awesome.
Allow you to ride much faster through rock gardens and roots.


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## juan pablo (Jan 17, 2007)

Sounds like a perfect match for the Elka.

Only joking, but glad to hear we getting some awesome suspension choices to match some outstanding frame designs. Looks like 2010 is the start of something sweet.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

juan pablo said:


> Sounds like a perfect match for the Elka.
> 
> Only joking, but glad to hear we getting some awesome suspension choices to match some outstanding frame designs. Looks like 2010 is the start of something sweet.


Believe it or not, this fork does feel like it has an Elka damper in there. I think I like those traits for a fork more than a rear shock. :thumbsup:


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

The 2008 Lyrik Coil I had started to leak oil on top after 1 month of riding. I could also never get it to be plush without bottoming out either. I hope this iteration is much better.


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## ThePunisher (Feb 15, 2006)

did you get a solo air or coil?


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## Nick_M2R (Oct 18, 2008)

Cable0guy said:


> The 2008 Lyrik Coil I had started to leak oil on top after 1 month of riding. I could also never get it to be plush without bottoming out either. I hope this iteration is much better.


If you had problem of the fork blowing through its travel, check my signature for my thread about adjusting the MC's shim stack. I had the same problem as yours (blowing through travel) and simply changing 2 of the shims made the compression adjust much better (they adjustments actually made a noticeable difference)


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

Nick_M2R said:


> If you had problem of the fork blowing through its travel, check my signature for my thread about adjusting the MC's shim stack. I had the same problem as yours (blowing through travel) and simply changing 2 of the shims made the compression adjust much better (they adjustments actually made a noticeable difference)


I wish you had come out with your guide in 2008. I sold the fork soon after SRAM sent me a new damper. I got a Fox 36 instead, and had much better luck with that. I was so disappointed because Totem, Boxxer and Pike had all worked so well for me previously.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

agree with everything said too, quality of the damping has really made me question whether to move to a coil rear too..perhaps a CCDB on my Spicy.


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## MOflow (Nov 25, 2009)

Well judging from the title of the post, I'm guessing coil.

Nice review, I really like RockShox from what I've used


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## essenmeinstuff (Sep 4, 2007)

ThePunisher said:


> did you get a solo air or coil?


did you read the thread title? :thumbsup: 

edit: doh beaten to it!


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## 0pt1cal (Jun 20, 2005)

Totally agree with I have a Lyrik DH Coil on the Uzzi and its amazing


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## Uncle Cliffy (Jul 7, 2006)

I'm interested in this fork, even though I'm running a 36 Float already on my SS. I'm sure comparing the feel of these two doesn't really compare, but I'm wondering how stiff it is. All Lyrics I've felt had significant flex under braking where my 36 doesn't.

I'm running the 1 1/8 steerer too. If I got this in a tapered ST... Hmmmm?


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

YoPawn said:


> I now have another DH damper coming for my other Lyrik.


Will the new DH damper work on older 160mm Lyriks? Both SoloAir and U-Turn models?


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## Guest (Feb 12, 2010)

Have had a couple buddies running the new Lyrik DH cartridges in older 160mm Lyriks for a couple months now. Swapping the internals is as easy as rebuilding the fork and when they are done they feel like mini 2010 Boxxers:thumbsup:


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

my Lyrik DH Solo Air is really great.


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## phatfreeheeler (Mar 3, 2005)

The DH damper in my Lyric is how I always wished my Totem felt. Now I'm working on getting a DH damper for the Totem and will pass on the results when I do.


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

YoPawn said:


> I now have another DH damper coming for my other Lyrik. :thumbsup


I'm looking to do the same thing for my 09 Lyrik...gonna talk to my lbs about ordering one when i go to pick up my wheels. What did the new damper run you?


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Update your old Lyrik
If you've got an older Lyrik and are looking to get some updated internals, RockShox hasn't left you high and dry. You can retrofit your old fork with the updated rebound and the new Motion Control (DH or standard) damper as well.

* The new Mission Control Damper ($110 MSRP) (vendor part #: 11.4015.415.020)
* The new dual flow rebound ($80 MSRP) (vendor part #: 11.4015.416.020)

taken from....

http://www.sicklines.com/2010/01/26/spotlight-2010-rockshox-lyrik-dh-coil-170mm/

michael


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## juanbeegas (Oct 1, 2007)

Do the 170mm Solo Air versions of this fork come in any other colour? I only see white ones listed on the site.


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## GearTech (Mar 3, 2009)

rpet said:


> my Lyrik DH Solo Air is really great.


Ditto. I've only ridden it a few times because of weather but it's feeling great on the Cove STD review bike. I can't wait to get some real time in on it.


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

juan - i had to get a white one, but I wanted black. I think the solo air DH lyriks are only white for aftermarket. Or that was the case in December.


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## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

mykel said:


> Update your old Lyrik
> If you've got an older Lyrik and are looking to get some updated internals, RockShox hasn't left you high and dry. You can retrofit your old fork with the updated rebound and the new Motion Control (DH or standard) damper as well.
> 
> * The new Mission Control Damper ($110 MSRP) (vendor part #: 11.4015.415.020)
> ...


So to upgrade you need to order 2 parts? the rebound is not part of the mission control damper? your link did not work.
EDIT: nevermind, I found it on sicklines.


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## EastBay_Slim (Jan 4, 2007)

*Do the 170mm Solo Air versions of this fork come in any other colour?*

black.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

unclekittykiller said:


> ...your link did not work.


Sorry about that.... FIXED.

http://www.sicklines.com/2010/01/26/spotlight-2010-rockshox-lyrik-dh-coil-170mm/

michael


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## rvmdmechanic (Sep 18, 2008)

rpet said:


> juan - i had to get a white one, but I wanted black. I think the solo air DH lyriks are only white for aftermarket. Or that was the case in December.


One more photo of a black one - the 1.5" steerer one comes in black - it's nice.
This one is Solo Air FWIW - feels like it needs a bit more oil in the lower, but otherwise really pumped to give it a workout. Think I will set the rebound a bit slow given feedback here.


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## tacubaya (Jan 27, 2006)

Argh I'm feeling temped into changing my 06 Marzocchi 66 SL to a Lyrik DH....


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## rpet (Jan 27, 2004)

Oops - i should have specified that 1 1/8" solo air DH were just available in white.


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## KRob (Jan 13, 2004)

Thanks for the review yopawn. Sounds like a great option. I've liked the damping on my '09 55 RC3 except it does get a little divey on steep downs and bottoms too easily if the air preload is at zero.... but then gets less plush on the smaller stuff if you pump it up. 

Sounds like the Lyrik DH coil adresses these problems and is a pound lighter than the 55 RC3 to boot...... and has an additional 10mm of travel.

I thought I was wanting a 180mm '10 66 RC3 Ti but.........? This sounds interesting.

I am a little concerned with the flex. My 55 has the 35mm stanchions and seems a little overwhelmed in some of the bigger chunk and drops. Hmm.

Nice bike rvmdmechanic. Is that a Can Diggle? Got more pics?


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

KRob said:


> Thanks for the review yopawn. Sounds like a great option. I've liked the damping on my '09 55 RC3 except it does get a little divey on steep downs and bottoms too easily if the air preload is at zero.... but then gets less plush on the smaller stuff if you pump it up.
> 
> Sounds like the Lyrik DH coil adresses these problems and is a pound lighter than the 55 RC3 to boot...... and has an additional 10mm of travel.
> 
> ...


I would say the DH Lyrik suffers more from being light than actual flex. It deflects off of stuff easier being 2 lbs lighter than the last fork, but on the other hand, it is much more flickable so I can ride around stuff better.

I was going to buy a 2010 55 rc3 ti, but as you mentioned it requires air and Mazocchi forks + air = complete and utter garbage.

Damping and travel wise, the Lyrik will be better than the 55, but probably won't notice any extra stiffness.

On a side note, I would like to add that I have been testing the bottom out resistance on the Lyrik DH. Even when launching a loading dock or set of stairs it never hits bottom hard and always has at least 1/4 inch showing where my rubber band stops. That is also with the HSC turned way out along with LSC. This fork is the best example of how a fork should handle spring rates. Linear for the most and then a nice ramp up in the last inch.

Why does the DH damper provide more bottom out resistance than the other rockshox dampers without the need for compression control? I think I know why!

It all has to do with the larger rebound piston since it pushes the oil for the compression circuit. Since the shaft has a much larger displacement volume and the stanchion chamber is the same size as the other Lyriks, it effectively has a lower compression displacement ratio. This means that the trapped air has more leverage over spring rate especially at the end of travel.

I will try lowering the oil a tiny bit to see if I can get another 1/8th inch of travel without knocking bottom.

Only issue I'm having with the fork right now, is the spring is clicking in the travel. Easy to fix once I get some shrink wrap. But damn, I've never owned a rockshox fork that didn't have spring clicking.


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## rvmdmechanic (Sep 18, 2008)

@ KRob - yeah, my brand new diggle - thanks for the compliment :thumbsup:
There's a few more photos in the "Post your Canfield" thread down in the custom builders forum!

Not that I have ever owned a fork this big, but I did consider the totem and 66 before purchasing... but felt that 10mm of travel was not worth 1-2lbs extra weight, as a light dude it doesn't feel flexy to me at all! (120-130ish with gear)


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

I doubt it - not with a Fox sticker on it! 
IMHO - the only companies likely to bring something to market which could compete with the Lyrik DH are BOS and possible Cane Creek if they do something with Ohlins. That could be special.


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## twouareks (May 13, 2004)

sixsixtysix said:


> Wonder is this is going to compete with the Lyrik DH...
> 
> What's that? Next year's 36?


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## Uncle Cliffy (Jul 7, 2006)

sixsixtysix said:


> Wonder is this is going to compete with the Lyrik DH...


Those don't look how I thought they would. The stantions look pinner...


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

Next year Fox are adding Kashima coatings to the stanchions....reported here and many other places. http://painincorporated.com/?p=768


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## motoguru2007 (Dec 13, 2007)

Whats the A-C Lenght 555?


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## OffCamber (May 29, 2005)

Does the DH floodgate work the same as the Standard? Meaning will it almost lockout for climbing? I'm looking at the DH U-turn.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

OffCamber said:


> Does the DH floodgate work the same as the Standard? Meaning will it almost lockout for climbing? I'm looking at the DH U-turn.


There is no floodgate on the DH cart


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## rvmdmechanic (Sep 18, 2008)

liqwid said:


> There is no floodgate on the DH cart


Yep - that's the advantage to the DH, none of this floodgate / lockout BS... if you're rockin a 170mm fork you don't need no damn lockout! at least... in my book.

Pulled the lowers today, there was a decent amount of oil but the "grease" on the seals / wipers was nasty lookin. New slick honey and some fresh oil and it's rockin! If only I could ride.

That fox is coming 2nd to the market well... it's nice they're finally gonna do it. I like their products usually, but I dunno if I'd choose that over the lyrik DH though, it feels quite like a "mini boxxer"


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## Nick. (Dec 19, 2003)

twouareks said:


> What's that? Next year's 36?


The label on the arch reads TALAS. 180mm, 36 TALAS? Hmmm ...


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## Mr. Blonde (May 18, 2008)

essenmeinstuff said:


> did you read the thread title? :thumbsup:


Did you read the thread?


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## Bikesair (Feb 20, 2006)

captain spaulding said:


> That sounds like the best reason to get the fork
> 
> Good review, I've been waiting to hear about the new Lyrik DH's... basically looking for a reason to throw my 55 ata in the garbage..


What year is it? You wanna sell it?


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## twouareks (May 13, 2004)

So...uh...I still want to know what's going on with that Fox.....


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## McBloodClot (Feb 7, 2010)

My question is..... What is it that prompts someone to buy the DH Lyrik over a Totem? Just curious.


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## twouareks (May 13, 2004)

twouareks said:


> So...uh...I still want to know what's going on with that Fox.....


http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=595217

I guess this is my answer


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## davep (Mar 11, 2005)

McBloodClot said:


> My question is..... What is it that prompts someone to buy the DH Lyrik over a Totem? Just curious.


It is shorter. It is also lighter and smaller overall design. You could drop a boxxer WC to 100mm travel if you wanted but it would not be a suitable replacement for a Reba. It is more that _just _the travel that distinguishes fork models..although IMO RS does make a few TOO many fork models that overlap a bit too much.

Personally I would ask why the Totem exists as it is the same length as a Boxxer yet has 20mm less travel.

Over the past years, forks have gotten longer and longer with the same usage design. This means that now 'AM' forks are 160 - 170mm. WIth Full blown DH forks being 200mm (and absolutely no reason to increase, in fact most DH bikes have come _down _in travel in the recent past) this leaves only 1.5 inches of travel variation to try to differentiate everything between AM and DH (and make seperate products so eash niche feels thay are being addressed). Then there is the 'long travel xc' market that is pushing toward similar lengths (150 - 160mm) forcing the AM forks to be longer so as to not overlap....on and on.

Sometime (I hope) the fork business (and a good portion of the mid travel MTB world) will figure out that more travel is NOT always better....more often (like the infinite partitioning of the mtb market with names like XC, trail, AM, etc) it is a marketing gimic and designed to sell products. Unfortunatley, it is not easy to quantify suspesion quality, so it is hard to market.

Quality over quantity!!!!!!!!


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Too much modding going on here:



sixsixtysix said:


> Wonder is this is going to compete with the Lyrik DH...
> 
> What's that? Next year's 36?
> 
> ...


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## [email protected] (Oct 1, 2005)

My Lyric Coil 170 DH has baan stellar so far. Easy to tune, light, plush.


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## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

has anyone had any creaking or any of the problems that plagued the early lyriks?


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## EastBay_Slim (Jan 4, 2007)

no creaking, no flex. it's been stellar thus far (3months).


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## Jens_Fredrik (May 7, 2008)

I'm considering the new lyric DH but I'm not quite sure how mye bike will handle the extra 10mm when it comes to climbing suffering from slacker angles and the BB getting a bit higher. So my question is: Is the 170mm any different from the 160mm version other than the travel? Is it fairly straight forward to lower the travel on the Lyric(spacers?)? I'd really like the option of lowering the travel if the extra 10mm screws up the geo.

Edit: Found the info myself on p. 51 here: http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY10.pdf

Looks like I'll have to start saving up


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## Cable0guy (Jun 19, 2007)

Has anyone done comparison testing between the '10 Lyrik DH Coil vs. '09/ '10 Fox 36 Van RC2 w/ FIT cartridge?


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## Iceman2058 (Mar 1, 2007)

Jens_Fredrik said:


> I'm considering the new lyric DH but I'm not quite sure how mye bike will handle the extra 10mm when it comes to climbing suffering from slacker angles and the BB getting a bit higher. So my question is: Is the 170mm any different from the 160mm version other than the travel? Is it fairly straight forward to lower the travel on the Lyric(spacers?)? I'd really like the option of lowering the travel if the extra 10mm screws up the geo.
> 
> Edit: Found the info myself on p. 51 here: http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY10.pdf
> 
> Looks like I'll have to start saving up


In any case, 10mm isn't going to be anything to worry about. Accounting for sag (assuming identical sag setting between the 2 forks), it is already only about 7mm +/- of effective difference between the 2 forks, and you could make up for that by running a little bit more sag on the 170 version. Which, if reviews are anything to go by, the new Lyric handles very well - they are saying it can deal with more sag while still riding higher in its travel...

As for your question whether it is different to a 160mm Lyric other than travel...if you don't know the answer to this question, AND you are worried about the effect of the extra travel, then why are you considering changing your fork in the first place?


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## altadank (Mar 19, 2006)

*Color me Tempted..*

...to buy a Lyrik DH coil to replace the 66 light on the Highline.

Anyone care to comment on the dampening comparison. In a way more descriptive than "MoCo is waay better than any marz dampener".

For me it seems the RS has 'superior dampening', while the 66 is bombproof and has ETA(travel adjust) for steeper climbs. I do climb on 80% of my rides. The 66 is 2006 vintage and has been a GREAT shock----> no I don't want to sell it!

Also the stiffness of the 66 is prolly superior to the Lyrik. comments?

OTOH, the Lyrik will shave 1+ lbs off a 38lb rig. Almost always a bonus.

Anyone with experience here?


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## FullMonty (Nov 3, 2008)

The MiCo damper allows you to tune the low speed damping so you can have some resistance to rider input and the fork won't dive as much under braking and slow technical rolldowns.

usually upping the compression on a marzocchi turns it into a jackhammer.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Cable0guy said:


> Has anyone done comparison testing between the '10 Lyrik DH Coil vs. '09/ '10 Fox 36 Van RC2 w/ FIT cartridge?


I'm interested in this too. Could get a good deal on the Lyrik still today. I have an Uzzi VP arriving soon, and the alternative would be to use my existing van rc2 (maybe a touch short for the uzzi). I also have a flush headset and too little head tube left to put a higher stack headset on the Uzzi with the van.


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

FullMonty said:


> The MiCo damper allows you to tune the low speed damping so you can have some resistance to rider input and the fork won't dive as much under braking and slow technical rolldowns.
> 
> usually upping the compression on a marzocchi turns it into a jackhammer.


Yep, I'm pretty dissapointed it's taken Marz this long to come up with something decent, yet the mission control is still a much better damper than the Marz RC3 Evo, the technology has been there for nearly 20 years, yet mtb suspension companies have half-assed their damping systems nearly the entire time.


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

I have a Lyrik Coil DH and I am wondering a bit about the rebound.
Rockshox says it is an external beginning stroke rebound adjustment and the ending stroke rebound is set fixed internally. I cannot feel that this is the case. On my damper you really feel (and hear) the rebound working after a big hit, its much slower than on small stuff where it is very quick. The rebound of the fork just feels the same all the time, no matter if I get a big or small hit at low or high speed.
Any hints ? Someone made the same observation or a completely different?


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

altadank said:


> ...to buy a Lyrik DH coil to replace the 66 light on the Highline.
> 
> Anyone care to comment on the dampening comparison. In a way more descriptive than "MoCo is waay better than any marz dampener".
> 
> ...


Don't do it. The Lyrik is too short and flexy for the Highline. I could never imagine running a fork that light on mine.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

FullMonty said:


> The MiCo damper allows you to tune the low speed damping so you can have some resistance to rider input and the fork won't dive as much under braking and slow technical rolldowns.
> 
> usually upping the compression on a marzocchi turns it into a jackhammer.


That's cause Marz dampers don't have low and hi speed adjust. It does both at once. Thus you can't get more low speed without making it jack your hands hard.

Nothing wrong with marz dampers other than the lack of adjustment.


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## woodyak (Jan 20, 2004)

YoPawn said:


> That's cause Marz dampers don't have low and hi speed adjust. It does both at once. Thus you can't get more low speed without making it jack your hands hard.
> 
> Nothing wrong with marz dampers other than the lack of adjustment.


It's true that the compression setting affects both but you can tune out brake dive with the air preload. I found that for me it's actually more affect than my totem lsc adjustment was.


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## jodd (Feb 24, 2009)

*Well...*



lakekeman said:


> I have a Lyrik Coil DH and I am wondering a bit about the rebound.
> Rockshox says it is an external beginning stroke rebound adjustment and the ending stroke rebound is set fixed internally. I cannot feel that this is the case. On my damper you really feel (and hear) the rebound working after a big hit, its much slower than on small stuff where it is very quick. The rebound of the fork just feels the same all the time, no matter if I get a big or small hit at low or high speed.
> Any hints ? Someone made the same observation or a completely different?


What "damper" are you referring to?


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

Ah sorry I used the wrong word. I wanted to say rear shock (which is a stage5)
On the rear shock I can feel the difference in rebound speed for different hits.
On the Lyrik I dont.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

The more I ride this fork the better it keeps getting. Still nice and tight at the bushings, much more than my last Lyrik when also this new. 

The best thing about this fork is that it has enough travel to keep good geometry and squish on hard landings, but at the same time it can be tossed around with the flick of your wrist. It sticks when you want it to stick and pops when you want it to pop. 

Damping wise, it blows away the RC3. I use less travel on the smaller stuff, but more travel on the larger stuff with the Lyrik. My Lyrik usually shows 1/4 inch of travel left up at the ring after an aggressive trail ride with some good sized landings to flat. The bottom out resistance on this fork is better than any other rock shox fork I've owned. It's not super progressive, but just hits a pillow cushion right in the last inch. I am effectively using more travel with the Lyrik than the 66 rc3. 

I wouldn't take a point and plow fork (66) over a dancing acrobat fork (lyrik) ever for trail riding. Lyrik just encourages you to toss the bike around and have fun on everything in the trail.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

lakekeman said:


> Ah sorry I used the wrong word. I wanted to say rear shock (which is a stage5)
> On the rear shock I can feel the difference in rebound speed for different hits.
> On the Lyrik I dont.


Lyrik is designed to have a consistent rebound through the whole stroke and really does wonders for keeping the fork planted and poppy at the same time.

Elka is designed to be fast on small stuff and slow on the big stuff. This creates an unbalanced suspension with the Lyrik DH.

I personally think the Elka needs to have a more linear or regressive rebound damping. Mine was too fast then hit the brakes too abruptly and would pop my feet off the pedals and pitch the bike forward.

If anything, you need a fork damper that matches your shock.


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> Lyrik is designed to have a consistent rebound through the whole stroke


That is what I feel, but Rockshox says it has external beginning stroke rebound adjust and internal ending stroke rebound preset at a fixed speed. That made me wondering.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Just got a lyric solo air with the dh damper, weight was a bit under 2.2kg with uncut steerer. My previous fox 36 was pretty dry from the factory, have you guys been checking the oil level right away?


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

dropadrop said:


> Just got a lyric solo air with the dh damper, weight was a bit under 2.2kg with uncut steerer. My previous fox 36 was pretty dry from the factory, have you guys been checking the oil level right away?


I would just to make sure it was done right.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

dropadrop said:


> Just got a lyric solo air with the dh damper, weight was a bit under 2.2kg with uncut steerer. My previous fox 36 was pretty dry from the factory, have you guys been checking the oil level right away?


You should check and add grease to the seals, after removing the stock crap.

Mine came perfectly lubed, but I would not trust RockShox to make sure all of them are set up correctly.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

YoPawn said:


> after removing the stock crap.


I swear to god mine must have been packed with wax


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

liqwid said:


> I swear to god mine must have been packed with wax


That's about the consistency of the crap they put in there on the stock seals.


----------



## norcosam (Sep 27, 2008)

My set was lacking in grease around the seals and oil in the lowers


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Just removing the lowers should be sufficient? I checked that the rebound damping seems to be working (as much as you can without mounting it). Do I need new crush washers?


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

dropadrop said:


> Just removing the lowers should be sufficient? I checked that the rebound damping seems to be working (as much as you can without mounting it). Do I need new crush washers?


Yes to just removing lowers. No to new crushers.

The damper oil should be spot on. Never heard of that coming from the factory too far off. Only the lube in the lowers.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

YoPawn said:


> Yes to just removing lowers. No to new crushers.
> 
> The damper oil should be spot on. Never heard of that coming from the factory too far off. Only the lube in the lowers.


FWIW I pedal with mine so I put a 5/10w blend of oil in my dampening to try to reduce bob. It still feels amazing on the downs and its climbing like a champ.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

liqwid said:


> FWIW I pedal with mine so I put a 5/10w blend of oil in my dampening to try to reduce bob. It still feels amazing on the downs and its climbing like a champ.


FYI, the stock oil is actually 7wt. They just call it 5wt for some reason.

I also pedal my "bike" with the "fork" on there. Never once thought I needed to damp down the fork to keep it from bobing much. Maybe try a higher spring rate first?


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

*DH compression Damper!*

Did some up close pics of the damper parts.

pic#1 Compression damper with high speed spring closed onto shim stack.

pic#2 High speed open allowing shim stack to bend. Notice the arrangement of the shims. Progressive.

pic#3 Check valve to let oil back into rebound chamber

pic#4 compression bleed in center and 3 shim holes for the high speed stack.

pic#5 black thing with spring pushes high speed shim stack closed. blue thing is low speed compression adjust rod.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

YoPawn said:


> FYI, the stock oil is actually 7wt. They just call it 5wt for some reason.
> 
> I also pedal my "bike" with the "fork" on there. Never once thought I needed to damp down the fork to keep it from bobing much. Maybe try a higher spring rate first?


:lol: If they put 7wt in there stock then thats funny. With the old MiCo and the removed floodgate it just bobbed a lot more when I pedaled out of the saddle so a 5/10wt blend seemed to help with that. I just went ahead and replaced the fluid out of the box with the new dampener. It might have just been a placebo effect with the old dampener but it seemed to help. I certainly wouldn't want a stiffer spring, it feels great on the DH.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

more pics...................

This is how they create the indents for the knob clicks. Pretty slick, much better than the ball and pen spring method.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

I would be curious how you guys dial in your lyriks, do you tune spring, low comp, high comp and then rebound?
What settings did you guys arrive at?

Thx in adv


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

vikingboy said:


> I would be curious how you guys dial in your lyriks, do you tune spring, low comp, high comp and then rebound?
> What settings did you guys arrive at?
> 
> Thx in adv


Turn compression full out open.

Start with tuning spring rate. I run mine at around 25-30% in attack position.

Next tune rebound until it feels right.

Then tune your LSC and get the fork to feel a little more plush on small hits. (which LSC does to a certain degree)

Finally tune in the HSC one click at a time to control bottom out and excessive compression on hard hits.

Mine is stock spring. 5 LSC from open and 2 HSC from open
Rebound, not sure how many clicks. Something like 5 from full closed. 
Takes a 3 footer to hard flat to use all my travel now. Never hits bottom, but always within 2-3mm.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks Pawn.....I need to change my spring I think. I just put a band on my fork leg today and noticed it was regularly rammed up against the crown after I was landing 3-5ft drops to transitions so time to install the firm (blue) spring I think. Certainly no clunking or harsh knocks but definitely using every last inch of travel. 

Can I just check how to remove the spring please? Am I right in thinking...

Undo black nut at bottom of leg 3/4 of the way out
Undo big black nut at top of leg
Rubber mallet bottom nut to knock spring up and out
Pull out standard spring
Install new spring
Torque down top cap
Torque down bottom nut

Do I need to do anything with oil etc whilst changing this spring?

thanks again all
Ian


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## 317000 (Mar 2, 2007)

Could the DH damper be installed in a Domain?


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## ilostmypassword (Dec 9, 2006)

Wow..a rockshox fork that works! You have been lucky 

You should give a fair go though before celebrating....


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

I am 167lbs and using the medium spring in my 170mm coil mcdh at the moment. The fork is not very sensitive on small stuff. On bigger hits it is ok. I only get about 3cm of sag (close to 20%) in my downhill riding position, and thats how it feels on the trail, not very plush and not glued to the ground.
What do you think, do I need to switch to the soft spring? I never used a soft spring in any of my forks.. I guess the fork will blow trough the travel on jumps and drops when I do it. Or maybe change to slighty lighter oil in the damper (a mix of 2.5/5 wt) ?


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

vikingboy said:


> Thanks Pawn.....I need to change my spring I think. I just put a band on my fork leg today and noticed it was regularly rammed up against the crown after I was landing 3-5ft drops to transitions so time to install the firm (blue) spring I think. Certainly no clunking or harsh knocks but definitely using every last inch of travel.
> 
> Can I just check how to remove the spring please? Am I right in thinking...
> 
> ...


Changing the spring was easier than changing a tyre! Just remove top 24mm nut, pull spring out, put new spring in, install top nut. Must have taken all of 5 minutes.
Looking forward to giving this new spring a run out now.....


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

YoPawn said:


> Mine is stock spring. 5 LSC from open and 2 HSC from open
> Rebound, not sure how many clicks. Something like 5 from full closed.
> Takes a 3 footer to hard flat to use all my travel now. Never hits bottom, but always within 2-3mm.


I followed your guide today, ran the same hill about 30 times and came to settings very similar to yours with the exception of rebound of which we are at opposite ends of the scale from each other! I actually tried your setting but the fork was like it was in syrup - felt stuck down almost immediately and I cant believe you run yours like that!? Do you!?

Im using a hard spring (blue one)
LSC 4 clicks from open
HSC 2 clicks from open
Rebound 2 clicks from fully open (the Hare/rabbit side)

I started of the day at 3,3,3 clicks from open for everything after some casual trial and error setting. The hard spring feels better for my weight too (220lbs). I'm curious to try an extra firm one too as I think I quite like my forks fast and firm.

thanks for the advice!
Ian

Edit: Doing some research into rebound settings it may be that I just have it all wrong and slow rebound is the way forward.....need to do more testing I think


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

vikingboy said:


> I followed your guide today, ran the same hill about 30 times and came to settings very similar to yours with the exception of rebound of which we are at opposite ends of the scale from each other! I actually tried your setting but the fork was like it was in syrup - felt stuck down almost immediately and I cant believe you run yours like that!? Do you!?
> 
> Im using a hard spring (blue one)
> LSC 4 clicks from open
> ...


Did a double check. Mine is 9 clicks from full closed. 5 is too slow.

On the note of someone saying I got lucky ona good Rockshox... I've owned 4 Rockshox forks since the Pike I bought in 2004. It is still riding strong on a buddy's bike and never an issue. Sent it into PUSH and the bushings were still good. All of my other ones have been just as solid. I've purchased more crap from Marzocchi and seen even more crap from Fox (I would never buy one).


----------



## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

Appreciate you checking for me - thank you.
I'll hit the trails again on Thursday to see what happens when I slow the rebound right down.


----------



## mamaloney (Feb 7, 2010)

On my last bike I ran a kowa 160ss and it blew everything else out of the water. It felt plusher than the 2008-9 boxxers. I wonder how this compares?


----------



## bapesta (Feb 12, 2008)

mine is the Coil version...just opened them the other day to change the spring. just wondering if they suppose to come with any spacer as well? my other coiled fork is a Fox40 and they comes with a plastic spacer between the spring and the top cap, I was wondering if the RS does as well...

thanks


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Just went for a first spin, paved flat roads with my child riding his bike on the side. The stock settings where shocking, fork kept onn packing down and both compressions where almost closed. I think it's an oem version, and it's solo air. 

Still waiting for the frame it will end on so can't be bothered to tune it very much yet.


----------



## lokomonkey (Jun 18, 2005)

so how long A2C is this fork? will this affect/change the geo of my turner highline in what way? ....should I get a totem air or a lyric DH air....so confusing


----------



## unclekittykiller (Mar 1, 2006)

recently modified my '09 Lyrik with the DH damper and new rebound. much smoother than before. now even my '10 Revelation 150 feels like crap in comparison.


----------



## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

lokomonkey said:


> so how long A2C is this fork? will this affect/change the geo of my turner highline in what way? ....should I get a totem air or a lyric DH air....so confusing


Lyric 160mm is 545mm AC
Lyric 170mm is 555mm AC
Totem 180mm is 565mm AC

michael


----------



## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Anyone running the Solo Air version? How much travel are you getting out of it? I seem to be missing out on about 2/3" at the end. I can get it to compress fully if I remove all the air though. 

I'm running one click of high speed compression, and have tested with as little as one click of low speed compression (though I generally use a few clicks more of low speed). Maybe I'm just not riding big enough?


----------



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

dropadrop said:


> Anyone running the Solo Air version? How much travel are you getting out of it? I seem to be missing out on about 2/3" at the end. I can get it to compress fully if I remove all the air though.
> 
> I'm running one click of high speed compression, and have tested with as little as one click of low speed compression (though I generally use a few clicks more of low speed). Maybe I'm just not riding big enough?


These forks have a lot of ramp up in the damper, so I wouldn't be surprised the air spring is really hard to bottom out.

Good news is that you can convert over to coil pretty easily if air doesn't work out. :thumbsup:


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## juan pablo (Jan 17, 2007)

I am converting my 160mm solo air to 170mm coil. The DH damper was too pricy so I am possibly looking to remove the FG bits, already done to my Totem. 

I am just wondering what spring you guys are running. I am 185lbs and looking to pick a firm?


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## kntr (Jan 25, 2004)

juan pablo said:


> I am converting my 160mm solo air to 170mm coil. The DH damper was too pricy so I am possibly looking to remove the FG bits, already done to my Totem.
> 
> I am just wondering what spring you guys are running. I am 185lbs and looking to pick a firm?


Why are you converting it? I love my DH Solo Air.



dropadrop said:


> Anyone running the Solo Air version? How much travel are you getting out of it? I seem to be missing out on about 2/3" at the end. I can get it to compress fully if I remove all the air though.
> 
> I'm running one click of high speed compression, and have tested with as little as one click of low speed compression (though I generally use a few clicks more of low speed). Maybe I'm just not riding big enough?


Run less air. I find that I have to run a lot less air than they recommend. I also run 1 click of low and high speed. What air pressure are you running and how much do you weigh.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

juan pablo said:


> I am converting my 160mm solo air to 170mm coil. The DH damper was too pricy so I am possibly looking to remove the FG bits, already done to my Totem.
> 
> I am just wondering what spring you guys are running. I am 185lbs and looking to pick a firm?


I am somewhere between 190 and 200 right now, using the normal spring, not firm. I tend to run mine a little softer than others, so the regular spring should be good for you.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

kntr said:


> Why are you converting it? I love my DH Solo Air.
> 
> Run less air. I find that I have to run a lot less air than they recommend. I also run 1 click of low and high speed. What air pressure are you running and how much do you weigh.


I weigh 70kg and currently have 50psi. I do feel like I could go lower, but last time I tried I went a bit too low and the fork became divey (not easy to make so small adjustments with a pump that goes to 300psi). I also felt it did not make a huge difference with the progressiveness.

If I would decide to change, what would I need apart from the spring and cap? A pic I found looked like the spring had some rod integrated? I guess I would lose 10mm of travel though, which would make it moot in that regard...


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

I'm 220lbs and running firm spring.
Medium bottomed out bit too often tbh for me


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## juan pablo (Jan 17, 2007)

I will be hitting loads of gaps and drops with this so i may have to try the firm spring first. 

KNTR - I dont have the DH version. Its an 09' I picked up about 6 months ago on a wicked deal and I have had it in the box waiting for my DT frame to arrive - which it did today.

I will be trying the Lyrik in 160mm Solo air form, 170mm coil and the Totem and see wht works best. All forks without DH damper and rebound just FG mod.


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## trailadvent (Jun 29, 2004)

YoPawn said:


> Lyrik is designed to have a consistent rebound through the whole stroke and really does wonders for keeping the fork planted and poppy at the same time.
> 
> Elka is designed to be fast on small stuff and slow on the big stuff. This creates an unbalanced suspension with the Lyrik DH.
> 
> ...


Great thread info YoP on the Lyrik Dh

Interesting findings on balance and performance of the Elka and the Lyrik, the Lyrik sounds right, is this std on the Elka seems weird its not a trait I would have expected from it!

Are you running this on the Giant? Ive found that the Maestro paltofrm seeem to run a very fast rebound rate, my buds Glory was super quick even with slowing it down, he was boucning off **** and crashing all the time, I slowed it down and hes cornering and landings are much more unsettled than before, I;d still like to slow it down more but don;t want to affect his feel too much. LOL

For a longer travel bike its even more important to balance the front and rear!

I like super slow rear, that ramps up but not dead,!

Ideally ya want to balance FnR but not ness same rebound speeds especiall if ya only have rebound, on my Boxxer I can run slow rebound and fast in either low speed and then as it goes deeper into its travel.

Ideally ya want it slow enough esp in the rear so that on landings the rear will remain in control and not send ya all over the place and be consistent no matter what ya hit, and even more importantly ya want the rebound on the slower side so when cornering the bike will stay balanced low all the way through the corner this keeps the pressure on ya tires for increased traction and control, plus prevents the bike from standing up on ya shifting ya body weight too high too early, ya want that on exit, personally I find people use fast rebound for poor or lack of technique, often works but hinders progression of real corner speeds.

So why I find it strange the Elka should have that trait, I dunno jmo thoughts!

With my Boxxer one of the things I love is the LSR and High Speed rebound!

I can run slower rebound on the first part of the travel so for bumps, roots corners etc the tries maintain traction and control and the sus is supple plus less weight shifts from the fork it stays more balanced, making it easier to pedal harder, then the fastr ya go or the bigger the hit ya have the fast rebound HSR take over and speed up so the fork dosen't pack and can respond for faster hits or bigger hits stop the OS OTB syndrome I love it, why I know want a VIvid over the Elka which is not available for my bike anyways!

Pays not to run ya sus too soft though doing this this is where ya can get ya poppy ness instead of using overly fast rebounds, still what is fast on a 203mm fork is different to a 170mm fork or 150mm fork its all relative to each.

Do like the Elka guys though, like what they do and they're approach, just the first I;'d heard of that maybe not picked it up before, sorry for the high jack, but thought there maybe some info for peeps in sus setup anyways.

Love ya work YoP carry on


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Gents,

I recently bought my buddy's older 08 Lyrik and did the DH damper/rebound upgrade. He's got a red spring in his that I'm using. Is that the medium (stock) one?

I'm probably 210/215 normally, so probably 225 or 230 geared up I'm guessing. I've got the the HSC open all the way, and normally I get all but the last inch or so of travel. I'd think I'd be getting a bit more travel than that, although I've managed to bottom it a few times on the bigger hits. BUT, it could just be that the damper is more progressive and doing it's job. 

I echo what's been said, the DH damper is fantastic, really loving it.


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## vikingboy (Nov 5, 2008)

Red is firm, blue medium. 
I'm 220ish and bottomed blue all the time. Red bottoms on bug drops but not harshly.
I think you have the right spring tbh


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

vikingboy said:


> Red is firm, blue medium.
> I'm 220ish and bottomed blue all the time. Red bottoms on bug drops but not harshly.
> I think you have the right spring tbh


Ah, great, thanks for the info.


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## flOw dOwn (Feb 19, 2008)

vikingboy said:


> Red is firm, blue medium.
> I'm 220ish and bottomed blue all the time. Red bottoms on bug drops but not harshly.
> I think you have the right spring tbh


Backwards?

Domain and Lyrik listed rate chart: x-soft/white (<140lb), soft/yellow (140-160lb), medium/red-stock (160-180lb), firm/blue (180-200lb), x-firm/black (200lb+)

I'm 210lbs, started with stock red... felt too soft for me. Went up to black... I can still use full travel goin big, but feels too firm on rough rocky trails.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

I have a brand new 2010 Lyrik 170 coil in my hand - still in its plati-wrap.
It is a Firm and is Blue in colour. Part# 11.4015.422.040
BTI sku 3782

michael


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Got my new DH damper today. OMFG is right! Buttery smooth & plush, way better over the stock damper.

Comparison pics...because I can. DH damper on left, standard damper (with FG mod) on right.


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

Berkeley, thanks for that last picture. I already have a '10 damper, but the regular version. Seeing how big the difference is in those ports, and since I don't use the FG anyway, I think I'm gonna order a DH damper for my Lyrik.


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

What's the FG mod?


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## Karve (Mar 31, 2006)

Ive got a totem - already running the floodgate mod - what's required to get the DH dampener for that? Is the difference that dramatic?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Berkley said:


> Got my new DH damper today....


Yeah, that last pic sure sums it up. The opening of those ports should make it move much more oil - hopefully it matches up with the CCDB!


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

glitz said:


> What's the FG mod?


Floodgateectomy. Removal of floodgate.


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## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

So can one tweak the shim stacks on the DH dampers?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

glitz said:


> So can one tweak the shim stacks on the DH dampers?


I don't know that I have seen anyone do so...but hypothetically..


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

glitz said:


> So can one tweak the shim stacks on the DH dampers?


I would say yes, but there isn't too much need unless you weigh far outside of the normal range. Even in that case you would change to a different oil weight not change the shims.

I have a 2010 CCDB on my GRX1. The feeling of the two is a match made in heaven. They both seem to use the exact same amount of travel for hits and they are so close that I can tune understeer or oversteer with just half a turn of the rear HSC or the fork's rebound.  

I am so impressed with the combo, that I am really thinking of adding a new boxxer and CCDB to my Highline, even though it hardly gets ridden anymore. GRX1 has too much do-it-all going for it now. 35 lbs of shredage.


----------



## glitz (Jan 27, 2010)

It also interests me to see how the 170DH Lyrik does against the 36 RC2. Don't know which is stiffer, or if there is little difference between the two at this point. Plus the Lyrik costs less.


----------



## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

YoPawn said:


> I have a 2010 CCDB on my GRX1. The feeling of the two is a match made in heaven.


Yeah, it was your review and a few others that swayed me this way...should have some goodies today.

OTOH, I don't think my ability to fine tune is quite as good as yours - I recently bottomed hard enough to bend an 8mm shock mount bolt, and I don't recall having done that. Kind of makes me rethink what I feel/know. Kind of like those times when you locked out a shock back in the day, but never pinpointed the odd sensation till half way back down the hill!


----------



## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

I recently sent both my CCDB's back to get overhauled and updated to the 2010 specs. (one for the RFX, one for the Highline). And I also put the new DH damper in the Lyrik.

All I can say is I 100% agree with YoPawn, they seem to match perfectly, my RFX hasn't ever ridden better.

Not sure about the Highline as it's not back up and running yet, but I will say the DH damper on the Lyrik makes me wish I had a Totem DH on the Highline instead of my 66 RC2X.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> I recently sent both my CCDB's back to get overhauled and updated to the 2010 specs. (one for the RFX, one for the Highline). And I also put the new DH damper in the Lyrik.
> 
> All I can say is I 100% agree with YoPawn, they seem to match perfectly, my RFX hasn't ever ridden better.


Awesome. My Terremoto will get the recently-updated CCDB and a brand new Lyrik DH today.

Now off to "refresh" that UPS delivery status page...


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

trailadvent said:


> Great thread info YoP on the Lyrik Dh
> 
> Interesting findings on balance and performance of the Elka and the Lyrik, the Lyrik sounds right, is this std on the Elka seems weird its not a trait I would have expected from it!
> 
> ...


Sorry for the late reply, didn't see this post.

I don't know about those Elka guys... They seemed really stoked to get me set up with their prototype program to try and get them a better trail tune. Halfway through getting setup for them to send me one, they just stopped communication.  

I guess they didn't want to do the opposite of their "holy grail of suspension tuning declaration" which is to stay high in the travel. Must be some internal conflict over there about the image of the company or something I don't know. They make a point to say their product is better than others because of the traits, which is true for RACERS or bikes designed around little sag (Banshee Rune is perfect for that shock). Not for regular guys like myself who have no delusion of actual abilities. The marketing guy seemed stoked to get a different tune out on the market, but must have hit some resistance from the tuners. Pure speculation, but I feel this is likely what is going on.

Malcom at CC isn't as nice of a guy to have contact with, but at least he doesn't BS me, and cuts to the beef bone.

Lyrik DH is getting popular though, and for Elka to not recognize the number of trail bike riders using it is pretty short sighted on their part. Was just standing around at the Duthie Hill grand opening, and there were 5 2010 Lyriks within 10 feet of me alone. Suspension balance is everything when tuning a bike, regardless of an individual component's performance by itself. The Elka would be a mind blowing trail bike shock for most bikes if they offered a different curve on the rebound tuning.


----------



## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

Speaking of Duthie Hill, check out these videos! (Walter Yi made them, and he kicks ass! Thanks bro!) This is the type of riding I do on my 2010 Lyrik.

My personal section of trail is at 4:33 in the first video (Toilet Bowl). I built a lot more out there, but this is my personal side trail I put over 200 hours into. 

Located near Seattle if you're ever in the area. 






Duthie Hill, An Evergreen Project Part 1 from Walter Yi on Vimeo.






Duthie Hill, An Evergreen Project Part 2 from Walter Yi on Vimeo.


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## phatfreeheeler (Mar 3, 2005)

Berkley said:


> Got my new DH damper today. OMFG is right! Buttery smooth & plush, way better over the stock damper.
> 
> Comparison pics...because I can. DH damper on left, standard damper (with FG mod) on right.


Did you change the rebound damper as well? I ask because the 1st attempt at doing this mod to my Totem was just done with the '10 compression damper. It made the shock very buttery feeling, but it totally blew through it's travel no matter how much damping was dialed in. It needed the new rebound damper and sleeve to function properly. Now it is both smooth and controlled.


----------



## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

phatfreeheeler said:


> Did you change the rebound damper as well? I ask because the 1st attempt at doing this mod to my Totem was just done with the '10 compression damper. It made the shock very buttery feeling, but it totally blew through it's travel no matter how much damping was dialed in. It needed the new rebound damper and sleeve to function properly. Now it is both smooth and controlled.


I was actually just going to post something about this. I really haven't started tinkering yet, but so far it seems to work fine with the regular rebound damper. I've only had it on one ride though, so we'll see.


----------



## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

So after much tinkering, I determined my H/L compression adjustment wasn't doing anything. 

Called SRAM today to inquire about a new rebound damper and find out if it's necessary and the girl I talked to swore that it wasn't and the 2010 bits are backwards compatible. Everything else I've read on the web (MTBR and elsewhere) indicates the opposite. She was of the opinion that my compression damper was faulty. 

So they're sending me a new compression damper, and the rebound damper. I'll do some testing when I get them and report back.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

You guys better be right about this. I just spent a lot of money to convert my 08 Lyrik 2-step to U-turn coil and Mission Control DH. The compression damper was leaking out out the top, so rather than just buy a rebuild kit for $20 I thought I might as well just go nuts and change it from a so-so fork into something really nice.

I'm actually more excited about the coil - no more futzing with air pressures, buttery travel, and I can set it at 140mm for technical singletrack climbing. 2-step and the new Talas miss the mark with their huge drop from full to low travel.

I went ahead and bought the new rebound damper to match the compression circuit, I didn't want to take a chance at it not working quite right.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

juice said:


> I went ahead and bought the new rebound damper to match the compression circuit, I didn't want to take a chance at it not working quite right.


Wise choice, as having the right compression damper is nothing without matching the rebound damper.


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## YoPawn (Mar 26, 2008)

juice said:


> You guys better be right about this. I just spent a lot of money to convert my 08 Lyrik 2-step to U-turn coil and Mission Control DH. The compression damper was leaking out out the top, so rather than just buy a rebuild kit for $20 I thought I might as well just go nuts and change it from a so-so fork into something really nice.
> 
> I'm actually more excited about the coil - no more futzing with air pressures, buttery travel, and I can set it at 140mm for technical singletrack climbing. 2-step and the new Talas miss the mark with their huge drop from full to low travel.
> 
> I went ahead and bought the new rebound damper to match the compression circuit, I didn't want to take a chance at it not working quite right.


My advice has a 0% satisfaction guarantee. If my advice actually helps, then you can legally sue me.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

YoPawn said:


> My advice has a 0% satisfaction guarantee. If my advice actually helps, then you can legally sue me.


Well since I know you in the _real world_ I ignored everything you said anyway


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

I just ordered a Lyrik DH coil and want to convert it to u-turn. Anyone know what parts I need?

U-turn spring
U-turn top cap
Anything else? Maybe a new top-spring?


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

Nagaredama said:


> I just ordered a Lyrik DH coil and want to convert it to u-turn. Anyone know what parts I need?
> 
> U-turn spring
> U-turn top cap
> Anything else? Maybe a new top-spring?


Yeah I'm pretty sure the u-turn has a specific top spring



> 11.4015.100.000 Lyrik U-Turn Topout Spring Assy


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

liqwid said:


> Yeah I'm pretty sure the u-turn has a specific top spring


Scratch that, looks like if you already have a coil its probably the same part



> Lyrik Coil/U-Turn Top Out Assembly	11.4015.458.010


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Anyone know where I can find a DH damper? Seems all the distributors are out right now!

Thanks!

G


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Gman086 said:


> Anyone know where I can find a DH damper? Seems all the distributors are out right now!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> G


SRAM?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Nagaredama said:


> I just ordered a Lyrik DH coil and want to convert it to u-turn. Anyone know what parts I need?
> 
> U-turn spring
> U-turn top cap
> Anything else? Maybe a new top-spring?


Hold on, you ordered the 160 or 170?


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## The Dude (Jan 19, 2004)

anyone want to buy a regular damper?


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Gman086 said:


> Anyone know where I can find a DH damper? Seems all the distributors are out right now!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> G


I ordered all my stuff through SRAM, with one small part they had to get through BTI. You'll need to go through a LBS, they won't ship direct to consumers.


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

I have a brand new Lyrik MiCo DH Solo Air. When I compress deeper into the travel (50-60% maybe) I can hear/feel a slight knock right when the fork starts to rebound. It is definitively not there when I compress it below 50%. Generally on the trail it is not noticable, only when pushing on the fork.
Whats that about? Normal or something wrong? Maybe the dual flow rebound kicking in?


I just realized my 2010 Revelation has it as well!? Any thoughts?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

The Dude said:


> anyone want to buy a regular damper?


I'd post it up for sale in the brand-specific sections of the bikes that come with OEM non-MC Lyriks.

I had thought about doing that with my u-t coil, but ended up trading it (nib) for the 170 coil (nib).


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

CharacterZero said:


> Hold on, you ordered the 160 or 170?


170mm coil DH. I don't think SRAM actually made a 160 coil DH Lyrik this year despite what their website says.


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

Can anyone confirm if the Lyrik DH coil models come with multiple weight springs or just the installed medium?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

*Yes*



Nagaredama said:


> Can anyone confirm if the Lyrik DH coil models come with multiple weight springs or just the installed medium?


Yep, in the box behind the cardboard holding the fork in place


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

I finished my conversion to MiCo DH, DH rebound, and coil. These forks are easy to work on. I shook it down yesterday on a trail that is usually the domain of DH bikes, and had plenty of nasty, steep, rooty, rocky stuff, along with a smattering of drops and gaps.

It felt pretty good, but it was honestly hard to evaluate it since the terrain was a bit beyond what my setup was designed for. I REALLY needed a chainguide, and single ply tires were a bit sketch.

Even at 180lbs + gear, the stock spring felt pretty firm. I only bottomed it once with only 2 clicks of compression on both adjusters, and a couple of my landings weren't pretty. I bet it'll loosen up with some break-in.

The spring kept clunking loudly against the inside of the stanchions. Has anyone else experienced this when converting air to coil? It seemed excessive, and would even do it in parking lot test. I'll pull it apart and put a section of heat-shrink on the spring, which I've had to do on other forks. I'll also use heavier grease than the Phil's I normally use.

After one (3000+ft) day of riding, my feeling is that it's nice, but not mind blowing. Getting rid of the spring rattle will probably get me a bit more stoked. The thing I like most is the U-turn coil. Dropping from 160 to 115 with the 2-step was just too much and made the bike feel weird on climbs. Dropping it down 25mm for climbs is perfect!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Well, I am still loving mine, but it's developed some nasty bushing slop.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

*hoped they had fixed that*



rscecil007 said:


> Well, I am still loving mine, but it's developed some nasty bushing slop.


Well, at least they will take care of it for you. They always do!

I am loving mine as well...mine is just getting broken in, but I have done many up/down rides as well as some dedicated drop tuning. I think I have only heard it wheez once thru all the paces, and that was intentionally front-heavy on a transition.

Great match for the CCDB...


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Rode my new DH damper setup today at Post Canyon. Was assured by a Sram rep that the new DH damper "ramped up" more than the previous version and is what I needed for my Solo Air which I'd blow thru the travel too easily for drops and FR. Well no diff! At 60 psi I got 25% sag and had to go to 9-10 clicks in on compression to keep from bottoming out on 6-10 ft drops to tranny. i bumped up to 65 psi but that takes me down to 20%sag (I guess that's fine since I want slacker angles but the bike is getting taller and taller!). Anyone else have this or is it just the Solo Air's that are too linear in their spring rates? Shock did ride smooth but, honestly, IF you ran with no floodgate (allen screw turned all the way out) it really wasn't that far off the DH damper IMHO. The dual flow rebound seeemed to work good - can set fast for stutter bumps but still have it slow down automatically for big drops. I think I'm settling on 14 clicks in from all the way out. My FR setting was 8 clicks in low speed compression and 10 clicks in HS compression (hope to lower to 6-7 with increased air pressure). Overall it is better but probably not worth the cost. I did like how going way up on low speed compression didn't seem to affect sag like before. Comments?

Cheers,

G


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

How are you measuring sag? My solo air is so sticky there is not a lot of sag while sitting down, I imagine it would be very divey if I set sag as recommended. Granted my frame does seem to be slightly rear weight biased while sitting on the saddle. 

I'm considering putting a coil spring inside, but I guess I should start by opening it up and giving it some luvin.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

I measure it by getting in the attack mode - standing on my pedals with weight between my feet and my hands and body somewhat forward. I think there was a Fox video showing that's how you're supposed to measure it if that's how you ride mainly for that bike.


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

Whats your weight ? I was surprised that the rock shox pressure recommendations are pretty spot on.
I am 80kg (175lbs) and run about 62,5-65 PSI. At 60 PSI the fork bottomed too easily and used a lot of travel on pretty small stuff. But I have to run a lot of compression as well.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

My solo air is very progressive, it's impossible to use the last 20mm without taking out the air. I do get plenty of sag in attack position. 

But again, I did not open it up yet.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

lakekeman said:


> Whats your weight ? I was surprised that the rock shox pressure recommendations are pretty spot on.
> I am 80kg (175lbs) and run about 62,5-65 PSI. At 60 PSI the fork bottomed too easily and used a lot of travel on pretty small stuff. But I have to run a lot of compression as well.


I'm 170 lbs and looks like I'll be at 65 psi at least. If I can't stop the bottoming without having at least 20% sag then I'll switch to a coil I guess!

Cheers,

G


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

I am not so sure that will help. I used a coil before and had way less sag than with the air now. In fact that was my reason to try out the solo air.
Also consider the weight distribution/geometry of the bike will affect how much sag you get out of the fork.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

lakekeman said:


> I am not so sure that will help. I used a coil before and had way less sag than with the air now. In fact that was my reason to try out the solo air.
> Also consider the weight distribution/geometry of the bike will affect how much sag you get out of the fork.


Okay, thanks! I think I'll just run more air pressure and call it good - I do love the fork,just wished it ramped up a bit more at end of stroke.

Where are you guys ending up on rebound setting for those that have the new rebound damper?

Cheers,

G


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

2 rides on my conversion to coil and to the DH dampers. One was a nasty FR trail, and yesterday was 18 miles of classic northwest river trail, which means tons of tech, slimy roots, slick waterbars, mossy rocks.

My fork feel really oversprung and harsh with the red/medium spring. I'm 175 lbs/80 kg. Anyone else find this, or did I maybe get a mis-labeled spring?


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## lakekeman (Sep 12, 2008)

I had the same feeling, same weight as you.
Medium spring gave little sag and a harsh ride.

Testing the solo air right now which is a lot softer at the recommended air pressure for our weight. So I guess Rock Shox is a bit off with their coil springs.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

205lbs no gear on the 2010 Lyric Coil 170 DH. Am using the firm "blue" spring. Fork is on a 2010 Knolly Delirium. No compaints here - I'm loving the coil.

michael


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## davep (Mar 11, 2005)

Gman086 said:


> Rode my new DH damper setup today at Post Canyon. Was assured by a Sram rep that the new DH damper "ramped up" more than the previous version and is what I needed for my Solo Air which I'd blow thru the travel too easily for drops and FR. Well no diff! At 60 psi I got 25% sag and had to go to 9-10 clicks in on compression to keep from bottoming out on 6-10 ft drops to tranny. i bumped up to 65 psi but that takes me down to 20%sag (I guess that's fine since I want slacker angles but the bike is getting taller and taller!). Anyone else have this or is it just the Solo Air's that are too linear in their spring rates? Shock did ride smooth but, honestly, IF you ran with no floodgate (allen screw turned all the way out) it really wasn't that far off the DH damper IMHO. The dual flow rebound seeemed to work good - can set fast for stutter bumps but still have it slow down automatically for big drops. I think I'm settling on 14 clicks in from all the way out. My FR setting was 8 clicks in low speed compression and 10 clicks in HS compression (hope to lower to 6-7 with increased air pressure). Overall it is better but probably not worth the cost. I did like how going way up on low speed compression didn't seem to affect sag like before. Comments?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> G


Did you change out the Rebound assembly as well (the 'DH damper is only the compresion assembly). The fork will not work any where near correct with just the compression change. Did you make sure to get the damper fluid volume correct? What viscosity oil are you using in the damper? Have you tried a higher viscosity fluid?

Sag is/should not be a function of damper settings at all. Sag is static, damping is dynamic. What you are noticing is stiction and/or platform force, that has nothing to do with proper sag measurement.

High and low speed compression adjustments are not in any way, independant. One is a preload adjustment on the shim stack, the other adjusts the size of the bypass valve. Oil HAS to flow through either the shim stack, or the bypass, so any change to one, will change the other. A large event like a drop will have both high speed and low speed shaft movements, so both high and low speed compression adjustments will affect large hit overtravel.

You mention wanting to back off the HSC, yet you are bottoming? You should be increasing the HSC (and backing off the LSC if it becomes a bit much..but you must keep some to have the proper HSC function) to help control the over-travel.

Pack the chassis seals with slick honey, and make sure the internals are clean and properly oiled, and the stiction should reduce significantly. The air spring assembly contains more seals, and makes this very regular maintainance even more needed.

There are absolutely zero position sensitive/progressive forks on the MTB market. THe only way to get position progressiveness is through the spring (your air spring is already progressive vs a coil). You could increase the spring progression by decreasing the air volume (some oil). IF you overdo it, however, something will let go to release the pressure.

You can modify the damping force vs shaft velocity curve with some shim mods quite easily...but it will take some experimentation and process on your part.

My suspision is that the stiction in your fork is causing you to run overly low spring pressure to get the 'sag' and small bump feel you want. Get rid of the stiction and you can run more pressure, maintain compliance and feel, and prevent over-travel.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

davep said:


> Did you change out the Rebound assembly as well (the 'DH damper is only the compresion assembly). The fork will not work any where near correct with just the compression change. Did you make sure to get the damper fluid volume correct? What viscosity oil are you using in the damper? Have you tried a higher viscosity fluid?
> 
> Sag is/should not be a function of damper settings at all. Sag is static, damping is dynamic. What you are noticing is stiction and/or platform force, that has nothing to do with proper sag measurement.
> 
> ...


Yes, both the DH rebound and DH compression dampers were done. Damper volume is spot on at 193ml using RS's own oil. I do have some Golden Spectro 5 wt oil that is just slightly more viscous so great idea on trying a thicker oil!

I'm well aware of sag and damping dynamics and how to set both.

I'm well aware of how high and low affect each other - I still shouldn't have to have them both cranked up to 10 plus just to FR!

The HSC also controls square edge hit absorption. By having it all the way up to prevent bottoming I am severely limiting it's downhill bump absorption capability (makes it very harsh). Post Canyon has BOTH big drops and DH sections - I DON'T want to have to stop half-way and adjust if you follow me!

I have NO stiction problems. Seals WERE both cleaned and packed with slick honey and 15 ml of synthetic motor oil for splash oil in each leg; It is smoother than any fork I own!

Another MTB member did add a couple shims to solve his Solo Air blow-thru issues. that may be an option if the increase in air pressure doesn't work out. I do remember reading where the spring curve of the Solo Air is the most linear of the thre Lyrik versions which certainly isn't helping my cause.

Thanks for the response, the oil weight thing may be a good option for me. The more I think about it tho the more I think this is a spring issue and I just need to compromise sag for a stiffer spring (more air in this case). Most coil-overs also have to go up to the next stiffest spring for FR use (including my rear avy tuned 5th from 350 to 400 lb spring). I like a deep sag to lower the c of g and rail corners but this isn't my DH rig so I'll just have to compromise.

Have FUN!

G


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Re: sag and spring...

I'm running the medium red stock spring, and I'm about 220 I'd guess geared up (210 normally). I'm getting right at 45mm or so of sag just sitting, which is about right for me. I like to run close to 30% sag

Bike is 2008 RFX with CCDB, running the Turner recommended 35% sag in the rear (20mm I think?)


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

*coil/weight*



rscecil007 said:


> Re: sag and spring...
> 
> I'm running the medium red stock spring, and I'm about 220 I'd guess geared up (210 normally). I'm getting right at 45mm or so of sag just sitting, which is about right for me. I like to run close to 30% sag
> 
> Bike is 2008 RFX with CCDB, running the Turner recommended 35% sag in the rear (20mm I think?)


I am 225#...probly 240 geared up (weighed my pack -12#! w/ 3L H20).

Running firm spring - didn't even look at sag.


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

When you guys are saying you have your HSC/LSC '# of clicks' is that from open or closed? My 170 solo air DH took a long time to break in and now on HSC I'm 7 or 8 (I think I like 8 better right now) from open and LSC 4 from open. There seems to be enough friction in these to run less LSC.

Rebound has been pretty fricking fantastic and I just turned it 1 click but now I forget which way, I think slower.

Seems to be plenty of lube in there as it's still leaving that new or freshly lubed oil ring around the stanchions. I'm also running 70psi instead of the recommended 85+ - where are you guys on who are running air - close to recommended or lower?
Thanks!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

CharacterZero said:


> Well, at least they will take care of it for you. They always do!


Thankfully they are sending me new lowers out. :thumbsup:

Since I don't really use the u-turn feature and would like the 170mm of travel to slack my front end out a tad, I think I might convert my 160 u-turn to a just full on 170mm.

Is that as easy as pulling the uturn assembly out and installing the correct 170mm spring assembly for my weight?


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

gticlay said:


> When you guys are saying you have your HSC/LSC '# of clicks' is that from open or closed? My 170 solo air DH took a long time to break in and now on HSC I'm 7 or 8 (I think I like 8 better right now) from open and LSC 4 from open. There seems to be enough friction in these to run less LSC.
> 
> Rebound has been pretty fricking fantastic and I just turned it 1 click but now I forget which way, I think slower.
> 
> ...


Yup, I'm at about 3-4 clicks in on low speed and 6-8 on high speed depending on terrain. 65 psi helps prevents bottoming for me but is harsh over fast DH runs where 55-60 is better (I weigh 170 naked). And running 14 clicks in for rebound (2 clicks slower than the middle setting).

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - PUSH is supposed to come up with a new air spring that's real supple over high freq hits but ramps up better for big hits!


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Gman086 said:


> Yup, I'm at about 3-4 clicks in on low speed and 6-8 on high speed depending on terrain. 65 psi helps prevents bottoming for me but is harsh over fast DH runs where 55-60 is better (I weigh 170 naked). And running 14 clicks in for rebound (2 clicks slower than the middle setting).
> 
> Have FUN!
> 
> ...


Cool, thank you - looks like I'm at about the same range as at least you. I'm more like 235lbs so even your psi makes some sense to me.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

I'm starting to wonder if my compression adjustments are actually doing anything... How noticable is the difference for you?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

dropadrop said:


> I'm starting to wonder if my compression adjustments are actually doing anything... How noticable is the difference for you?


It makes a bit of difference. Not like on a Fox - the range is more narrow.


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## mykel (Jul 31, 2006)

Currently running 3 clicks HS from full open, and 5 or 6 of LS from full open. Was at the lifts a couple weeks ago and needed to make some adjustments - needed a bit less HS so I backed it off from 5 to 3. For LS I was as 3 and added a couple clicks as during some steep high-speed downs there were a couple of dips/g-outs that were tossing me a bit forward - added the LS and dive was taken care of.

Still loving it - a nice match for the CCDB.

micahel


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

dropadrop said:


> I'm starting to wonder if my compression adjustments are actually doing anything... How noticable is the difference for you?


That's how mine was and turned out to have too much oil in the damper tube! If you do the upgrade to an older Lyrik you use 187 and NOT 193 ml of oil. You wouldn't think 6 ml is gonna make that much diff but it did for me! Now back to more normal settings: 4 and 4 for HSC and LSC for AM/DH riding and 6 and 6 for FR. 11 clicks in for rebound. Fork is MONEY!

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

dropadrop said:


> I'm starting to wonder if my compression adjustments are actually doing anything... How noticable is the difference for you?


On the parking lot, I basically don't notice anything different. On a trail, I can easily notice differences of 2 clicks.

Gman is correct. If you converted a pre-'10 Lyrik, the correct oil level is 187cc. SRAM told me that when they sent the '10 damper and rebound as a warranty replacement for my 09 Lyrik.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Mine is a new 2010 model. I tested by trying to dial out brake dive. I recollect it making a difference when I first got the fork, but now I don't notice a big difference between no compression / both fully in (-1 click).


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

It looks like you got the brake dive dialed out when there was stiction, which provides kind of a platform effect, and now that the stiction is gone the low speed compression range is not enough to achieve the same end result.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

amrgb said:


> It looks like you got the brake dive dialed out when there was stiction, which provides kind of a platform effect, and now that the stiction is gone the low speed compression range is not enough to achieve the same end result.


Oh, great catch! Maybe the stanchion lube I just got has something to do with it...


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

If you want less brake dive and you have the version with floodgate (which I guess you don't), try with the floodgate engaged and almost fully open (that is, with the floodgate opening on relatively small bumps). You will get rid of brake dive, but probably you will sacrifice small bump compliance too much in the process.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

I don't actually have a big problem with brake dive, just wondering why the compression dial has such a small effect. Maybe spoilt by my Elka where settings make a noticable difference. 

I have some friends with 170mm coil versions of this fork, and they are swapping to stiffer springs. I figure their old springs would suit me well. 

Is there a comprehensive list of what parts is needed for the conversion from solo air?


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## amrgb (May 7, 2007)

Check the spare part catalog. There you can see the parts that make part of the air spring assembly that you currently have, and the parts that make part of the coil spring assembly. Just order the relevant bits.


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## juice (Feb 8, 2004)

Gman086 said:


> If you do the upgrade to an older Lyrik you use 187 and NOT 193 ml of oil. You wouldn't think 6 ml is gonna make that much diff but it did for me!
> 
> G MAN


Thanks for that tip. I put in 193 when I converted it.

Regarding springs, I found that when I converted my '08 to 160mm coil that the stock medium spring felt really, really stiff. At 175lbs + gear I'm far happier on a soft spring, it mates up to ~30% sag on my shock a lot better. Sounds like the 170mm version might have the opposite issue.


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## Diggidy (Jan 1, 2008)

How is the climbing with the 170mm fork with there being no U-Turn on it? Also, is it possible to take a 170mm DH Coil and convert it it to a U-Turn coil? So you could have a better climbing fork when need be.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Diggidy said:


> How is the climbing with the 170mm fork with there being no U-Turn on it? Also, is it possible to take a 170mm DH Coil and convert it it to a U-Turn coil? So you could have a better climbing fork when need be.


Yeah, but you have to mfg parts to get it to work...it has been documented somewhere out there...basically the u-turn rod is 10mm too short, so you have to build an extension that is properly threaded on each side, in addition to purchasing that U-turn cartridge

That being said, I went from a 160mm coil U-Turn on my Terremoto (designed for that 565mm A2c) and put on the 170mm RC2DH. I scooched the saddle up a bit on the rails - and found no detriment to climbing. I have a 50mm stem/30" bars and am climbing all the same switchbacks/steeps that I wasn't having a problem with before.
The wider bars help generate some extra leverage too, when getting out of the saddle on climbs.


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## Diggidy (Jan 1, 2008)

Well it looks like for 2011 they're making a 160mm U-Turn coil DH Lyrik, sounds perfect. Living in Wisconsin, I need to be able to drop the fork from time to time for those XC rides. Although on my Talas RC2 right now, I rarely drop it out of 160. I'm sure sure how much a difference it really makes in climbing going from 160 to 110. 

Does PUSH work on the Lyrik at all? Does anybody think there would be much a benefit sending one away to PUSH anyways?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Diggidy said:


> Well it looks like for 2011 they're making a 160mm U-Turn coil DH Lyrik,


They supposedly made one last year too, but I didn't ever see it...it was on the spec list.



Diggidy said:


> Does anybody think there would be much a benefit sending one away to PUSH anyways?


Nope. Not at all. The old Lyrik was very good, for 2010, they revised all the MiCo dampers for more oil flow (even on the non-DH), and now with the DH, I have a very supple fork, up and down.


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Diggidy said:


> How is the climbing with the 170mm fork with there being no U-Turn on it?


Fine with me. Actually after switching from a Fox 36 I can climb better (probably the weight decrease more then anything else).



> Also, is it possible to take a 170mm DH Coil and convert it it to a U-Turn coil? So you could have a better climbing fork when need be.


You could make a 160mm u-turn with teh dh damper.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Diggidy said:


> Does PUSH work on the Lyrik at all? Does anybody think there would be much a benefit sending one away to PUSH anyways?


The damping is spot on. The Solo Air version is still too linear and bottoms too easily so PUSH is working on an adjustable air volume cartridge that should be adaptable to any Lyrik if you want Solo Air instead.

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## Diggidy (Jan 1, 2008)

How do you guys think this would stack up against a PUSHd Van RC2? I'm looking for a new fork and it's really down to the PUSHd Van or the DH Coil Lyrik. Opinions?

EDIT: I should probably add that I'm going to pairing this with a CCDB in the back, on an Ibis Mojo HD.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

The DH Lyrik will destroy the Fox, even after PUSHED (no disrespect to Darren - ask him, he's riding a Lyrik); it's the best fork I've ridden. Nuff said.

G


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## Guest (Aug 2, 2010)

davep said:


> Personally I would ask why the Totem exists as it is the same length as a Boxxer yet has 20mm less travel.


First of all, it is lighter than the Boxxer and it has the attributes of a single crown but with the strength of the dual crown. I have raced DH on a Boxxer and did recreation DH on my Totem, and I would choose the Totem twice over bro. Not only that, the Totem will take some real big hits for a single crown. Never owned a Lyric, but i have rode on one for a short bit, and all hands down, I will rock on my Solo Air Totem before any others. Not knocking the Lyric though or Boxxer. :thumbsup:


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## mtnbikinggolfer (Aug 4, 2008)

i have a '10 Totem Solo Air with i believe the DH dampener, (it has no floodgate) and im running 25 psi and i weigh 185 pounds. it seems like the low speed compression and high speed compression makes absolutely no difference. i was running 50-55 psi but i wasnt using the last inch and half of travel at all. its not cuz im not riding hard enough so.....


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

mtnbikinggolfer said:


> i have a '10 Totem Solo Air with i believe the DH dampener, (it has no floodgate) and im running 25 psi and i weigh 185 pounds. it seems like the low speed compression and high speed compression makes absolutely no difference. i was running 50-55 psi but i wasnt using the last inch and half of travel at all. its not cuz im not riding hard enough so.....


You have too much damper oil and some probably pushed into the right lowers also which limits your travel. Take her back to the shop and have them check the seals and oil levels - warranty repair.

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## tiSS'er (Jan 6, 2004)

So how are the Lyrik DHs holding up? Looking at maybe a Totem DH RC2 to replace an aging 66RC3. Anyone have any serious warranty issues? Is SRAM still on top of the warranty thing?


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## mtnbikinggolfer (Aug 4, 2008)

tiSS'er said:


> So how are the Lyrik DHs holding up? Looking at maybe a Totem DH RC2 to replace an aging 66RC3. Anyone have any serious warranty issues? Is SRAM still on top of the warranty thing?


i got my demo 7 used, it was a rental bike. the totem had been blown out, the shop payed to get a new cartridge since i had just bought it and rental voids warranty. blew it out again, fixed under warranty. blew it out again(the specialized demo's totems that were 'custom' didn't quite work out) got a brand new 2010 totem solo air, only had to pay the upgrade for solo air since mine was coil.



Gman086 said:


> You have too much damper oil and some probably pushed into the right lowers also which limits your travel. Take her back to the shop and have them check the seals and oil levels - warranty repair.


i brought it to the shop and told them i think i still have hydrolock and they played for a bit and thinks its fine. ive had it happen on my old totems and its definately not that much locked out. i think maybe it may be me. is it possible there may be too much damper oil(that hasnt leaked into the lowers)?


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Yes - classic sign of that is you don't notice much diff when adjusting the compression knobs.

Have FUN!

G


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## mtnbikinggolfer (Aug 4, 2008)

can i do that myself?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Anyone interested in a 170mm Solo Air BARELY used with a 1.5 steer? PM me.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

mtnbikinggolfer said:


> can i do that myself?


Yes, just unscrew the damper side and pull the damper out. pour out the oil into a measuring device and pour back in the correct amount (motorcycle shops have measuring cups and 5 wt. shock oil). Oil height is on the RS website.

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## brad72 (Jun 12, 2009)

. wrong thread


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Don't know what happened, but suddenly I started to use all the travel on my Lyrik. Maybe a bit bigger drops? Seems like the last inch was impossible to use, and suddenly I'm eating it all up.


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## MyBikeRideStory (Sep 13, 2010)

*My Bike Ride Story*

Visit http://mybikeridestory.yolasite.com/ Great Bike Stories, Pics, Videos, News and More!!!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Does anyone know if there are any changes planned for the 2011 models? I found a good price on a 2010 170 DH coil. I was thinking of pulling the trigger on it and putting it on my fully, and taking the newly converted u-turn DH that's on it now and running it on the steel hardtail I plan on buying here shortly.


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## Quarashi (Aug 23, 2006)

Lyric 170 DH's get pretty flexy when they hit rotten tree stumps though, they may even bend.


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## backcountryislife (Jun 18, 2008)

Quarashi said:


> Lyric 170 DH's get pretty flexy when they hit rotten tree stumps though, they may even bend.


Yeah, the other day I bent mine & I didn't even hit anything! It also bent the frame, so I was really pissed then because I KNEW it was the fork's fault. I'm not endorsing the lyric any more, well maybe I am, well, I think maybe it's not that bad, or actually it is. you just have to understand this in context, cause I REAAALLY liked the fork before, but now maybe not.:skep:

Next time I'll just ride with a spare fork, knowing what I know...

Anybody seen yopawn? Not in here either huh? odd....


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

backcountryislife said:


> Yeah, the other day I bent mine & I didn't even hit anything! It also bent the frame, so I was really pissed then because I KNEW it was the fork's fault. I'm not endorsing the lyric any more, well maybe I am, well, I think maybe it's not that bad, or actually it is. you just have to understand this in context, cause I REAAALLY liked the fork before, but now maybe not.:skep:
> 
> Next time I'll just ride with a spare fork, knowing what I know...
> 
> Anybody seen yopawn? Not in here either huh? odd....


Sarcasm, or did you really bend it?


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## backcountryislife (Jun 18, 2008)

DirtDiggler said:


> Sarcasm, or did you really bend it?


Read some of this, it'll make more sense...
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=639848

Ok, well, it won't make sense, 
but you'll understand what quarashi & I are referring to.


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## DirtDiggler (Jun 19, 2004)

Ahh I see....


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

I got the coil conversion kit, just wondering a bit... As far as I've read the tech docs I assume this shaft and the base plate are like they should be when inserted, but for the coil version there is no mention of that wavy spacer or the silver one.

I do see them mentioned for u-turn though, and it seems they are placed on top of the base plat (first wavy one, then the silver spacer). Do I use them?


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## Haus Boss (Jun 4, 2010)

ok, ok! Anyone hitting 5+ foot drops on their Lyrik? Thinking of throwing 170mm Lyrik on my Butcher.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

Haus Boss said:


> ok, ok! Anyone hitting 5+ foot drops on their Lyrik? Thinking of throwing 170mm Lyrik on my Butcher.


Oh yes... get the COIL version and NOT the Solo Air (bottoms out too easily on bigger drops).

Have FUN!

G MAN


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## crossup (May 13, 2009)

Couldnt agree with you more. BUT while the massive diversity of forks seems excessive I'm sure I'm not unique in needing a fork that doesnt exist now.
I'd like to get a 011 Canfield ONE and run a Boxxer but since 85% of my riding is east coast trails I need to cut travel to bring the front end down for climbing. YES I'm talking blasphemy, a decent downhill weapon that is light and efficient at climbing. To perfect that one needs to pull the front down to around 150mm travel(actually saying lower the front of the bike) so the weight transfer if proper for climbing. So in short I need a U-turn air Boxxer....I have a nice lathe and mill...so it just might happen



davep said:


> It is shorter. It is also lighter and smaller overall design. You could drop a boxxer WC to 100mm travel if you wanted but it would not be a suitable replacement for a Reba. It is more that _just _the travel that distinguishes fork models..although IMO RS does make a few TOO many fork models that overlap a bit too much.
> 
> Personally I would ask why the Totem exists as it is the same length as a Boxxer yet has 20mm less travel.
> 
> ...


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

dropadrop said:


> I got the coil conversion kit, just wondering a bit... As far as I've read the tech docs I assume this shaft and the base plate are like they should be when inserted, but for the coil version there is no mention of that wavy spacer or the silver one.
> 
> I do see them mentioned for u-turn though, and it seems they are placed on top of the base plat (first wavy one, then the silver spacer). Do I use them?


Awnsering myself, the spacers are needed dispite being omitted from the manual.

Changed the solo air to a coil yesterday, won't be able to go for a proper spin till Sunday though. I rode around the apartment and felt positive though. To make the solo air that sensitive and use most of the travel you have to have pretty low air pressure. For that it blows through travel (at least that's my analysis). If I made the solo air as supportive as the coil feels it would be harsh and probably ramp up more towards the end (too much). I hope it feels as good on the trail.

The swap was really easy, my only problem had to do with the plastic sleeve. I ordered one (u-turn model probably) and with it in the stanchion the coil rod would not move freely. Seems the round plastic thing at the end of the rod was rubbing against the sleeve. Finally I dumped the sleeve.


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## sanjosedre (Oct 11, 2004)

Just got one for the SS & wondering how long e break-in period is?


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## Aspec (Mar 4, 2010)

> *If you converted a pre-'10 Lyrik, the correct oil level is 187cc.* SRAM told me that when they sent the '10 damper and rebound as a warranty replacement for my 09 Lyrik.


So, if I convert to DH damper / DH rebound _and_ remove the 10mm spacer to go 170mm on my 2011 RC then I'll be looking at the 193 oil level, correct?


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## Haus Boss (Jun 4, 2010)

I have a brand new Lyrik Coil MiCo that should be shipping any day. Can't wait to get it on my Butcher.


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

I've got a DH damper I'll puting in my 170mm coil version tomorrow. Is there anyway to set the travel to 160mm? I assume I need to move the spacer somewhere. Anyone know where it goes?


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## gticlay (Dec 13, 2007)

Nagaredama said:


> I've got a DH damper I'll puting in my 170mm coil version tomorrow. Is there anyway to set the travel to 160mm? I assume I need to move the spacer somewhere. Anyone know where it goes?


I'd be interested in buying one of the new Lyrik coil's from Bikewagon in trade for your 170mm coil. Let me know soon before their coupon is over. 

http://www.bikewagon.com/Forks-Head...26-Forks/Rock-Shox-Lyrik-U-Turn-p8796264.html


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Nagaredama said:


> I've got a DH damper I'll puting in my 170mm coil version tomorrow. Is there anyway to set the travel to 160mm? I assume I need to move the spacer somewhere. Anyone know where it goes?


You can't adjust the travel on The 170mm coil.


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## Nagaredama (Aug 2, 2004)

dropadrop said:


> You can't adjust the travel on The 170mm coil.


Bummer!

On a side note if anyone wants to buy a Mission Control Lockout Damper/Rebound assembly shoot me an email. I've got one for sale.


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## noBrain-noPain (Nov 29, 2010)

Hello Together, 
i've a Lyrik with a 2010 mission Control damper and the proper 2010 rebound unit. 
When im ridin on the Trial or just pushin the fork down i dont feel any difference between the Hard and soft extreme settings in both, high- and lowspeed compression. Even if i take out the spring from the spring side and try compressing the Fork with lowspeed compression fully hard i dont feel any resistance in this direction.  But while assemblying the MiCo-Unit i really feel a big force when reaching the oil level because i've to push the oil through the compression Unit. I've Meassured the oil level several times and it's the right amount of oil in. So i came to the conclusion, that probably the rebound piston doesnt work right and so there's not enough oil beeing pushed through the Compression unit. so here's my question:

Can anyone tell me the exact difference in oil level between fork fully compressed and fully pushed out? Would be best, if it is measured to the top of the crown. 

Thanks for your help and sorry for my bad english (im still gettin better)
best regards, 
Chris


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## Haus Boss (Jun 4, 2010)

Shipping Status Qty Item Price 
1 FK6340 Lyrik RC2 DH Coil - RockShox Lyrik RC2DH Coil 170mm Tapered, MaxleFR Black, 00.4015.551.060

Estimated delivery 
Dec 3, 2010

oh yah!


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## Diggidy (Jan 1, 2008)

Anybody ridden a Lyrik Coil DH and a 2010/2011 Marz 55RC3 Ti and want to compare the two? Obviously the Lyrik is a champ, but I've heard the RC3 Ti is a damn good fork as well.


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## ridewithchucky (Apr 1, 2007)

I have a Lyrik Solo Air DH and there is a clunking noise coming from one of the legs when I flip-it upside down or jerk it around!? Its set at 160mm so it has one travel spacer on the air spring side. Could it just be that the travel spacer is moving around in there which would make it a normal sound I guess?* Anybody's Lyrik Solo Air set at 160mm (or 150mm) also make this noise??????* See video of noise here: http://www.pinkbike.com/video/176497/

Also, it it me or is the slow speed rebound adjust range sorta small for 12 clicks, seems in the sweet spot but...


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Sounds like it's moving along the length of the spring shaft, so it could be the spacer. Pop the air spring out and see.


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## Haus Boss (Jun 4, 2010)

Resurrecting this thread because of how kick ass the 170mm Lyrik Coil rc2dh is. I've heard good things about the fox 180 van and float, I just can't perceive them being as buttery smooth as the Lyrik.


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## nightofthefleming (Jun 14, 2009)

So I have a question for all the Lyrik DH RC2 Solo Air owners, if I buy the 160mm model, is it just the 170mm with a 10mm spacer preinstalled? Or is it just 160mm period? I ask because I plan on buying a Lyrik DH RC2 solo air, and have it set at 160 for my 575, but I want it to be easily converted to 170 for the possibility of a different frame down the road (delirium or something similar). Or do I buy the 170 and install the 10mm spacer? Sorry if this has already been asked.


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## V.P. (Aug 26, 2007)

nightofthefleming said:


> So I have a question for all the Lyrik DH RC2 Solo Air owners, if I buy the 160mm model, is it just the 170mm with a 10mm spacer preinstalled? Or is it just 160mm period? I ask because I plan on buying a Lyrik DH RC2 solo air, and have it set at 160 for my 575, but I want it to be easily converted to 170 for the possibility of a different frame down the road (delirium or something similar). Or do I buy the 170 and install the 10mm spacer? Sorry if this has already been asked.


where did you find the 160mm model, cant find it anywhere?


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## nightofthefleming (Jun 14, 2009)

V.P. said:


> where did you find the 160mm model, cant find it anywhere?


Oh, I just looked again and I guess you're right, they're only 170, their little paragraph about the lyrik starts "with 160 and 170 models..." so I guess I assumed it was available in both. My bad. So I have this question then, the Lyrik DH RC2 solo air can be spaced down to 160 with a 10mm spacer right?


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## bullit43 (Dec 29, 2010)

I Think that any 160mm can be converted to 170,you just have to open it and took off the 10mm spacer as the manual says.


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## nightofthefleming (Jun 14, 2009)

bullit43 said:


> I Think that any 160mm can be converted to 170,you just have to open it and took off the 10mm spacer as the manual says.


So then if I wanted the DH RC2 solo air, I would just have to install the 10mm spacer so I could run it at 160 for awhile.... correct?


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## 123ski (Jun 16, 2008)

Ok. So I have 2 Lyriks sitting here. 1 I am going to Mod the other I am going to sell. Both are brand new. 

I have a 

1.5" HT 160mm Coil U-Turn RC2 (Mission Control IS...no floodgate)

I also have a

Tapered HT 170mm SA Lyrik R (no damper)

1. Is it even possible to upgrade the SA since it doesn't have a damper? If it is possible, would it be worth it?

2. I prefer coil over air. I know it is possible to put a 170mm spring in a coil U-Turn by disabling the U-Turn and running the 10mm extra. Is that worth while or would I even notice the extra 10mm? 

3. Since the RC2 Coil does not have a floodgate, can it still be upgraded to the DH Damper?

Thanks 

Josh


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## ridewithchucky (Apr 1, 2007)

Im pretty sur both the models you have do not have the dual flow rebound shaft (only RC2L & RC2-DH have it) and you absolutely need the dual flow rebound if you want to put in the DH damper, or else you will be left without a proper rebound.

If you want to upgrade to the dh damper on either forks, you will have to get a new dual flow rebound damper as well!

The motion control damper works with the basic rebound shaft which you have in both your fork,(like the 2008 & 2009 Lyrik forks did) but not the dh damper. 
*
I have a Lyrik motion control damper for sale that would work with either of your fork if your interested! *:thumbsup:


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## vincent66 (Mar 30, 2007)

Hey guys.

i'm desperate search of a 170mm medium spring for my lyrik.

I updated my u-turn to 170 mm fixed few month ago but in the meantime, I lost some weight and the firm spring is to hard for me now.

Anyone who swaped to a harder or softer may have a cheap medium to sell...
All the websites I visit don't sell medium.

thanks in advance.
Vincent.


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## noBrain-noPain (Nov 29, 2010)

vincent66 said:


> ....
> All the websites I visit don't sell medium.


Where do you come from? here is one shop and the price isnt bad i think!? http://www.hibike.de/produkt/73dbda737b25d0add2581cfa83064126/Rock Shox Feder Lyrik U-Turn.html


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## vincent66 (Mar 30, 2007)

I'm in NY.
I used to leave in Europe, but now i'm in the US and, guess what : I lost weight since I arrived !!!

shipping from Germany may be expensive ; I'll check ( I just checked : they only have _u-turn springs_ but i'm looking for a *170mm fixed medium*). I guess it is the red.

Thanks for your help.

V.


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## vincent66 (Mar 30, 2007)

I think I've found one.

What brand of suspension fluid would you recommend ?
I don't know any of the brands I see here.

Thanks.


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## noBrain-noPain (Nov 29, 2010)

me personally i would recomend you fuchs silkolene. But just have a look at this site https://www.pvdwiki.com/images/a/a7/PVD-ISO-Viscosity-Data.gif there you can see a comparison of different suspension oils and how you have to mix them to reach a certain viscosity.


vincent66 said:


> I think I've found one.
> 
> What brand of suspension fluid would you recommend ?
> I don't know any of the brands I see here.
> ...


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## drinkwat (Mar 17, 2008)

Anyone else getting a black smug mark against the left sanction on their lyrik? My lyrik is new and I noticed this the other day. The shop said that the seal might be bad on one side. How is rock shox with CS.. any experiences?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

drinkwat said:


> Anyone else getting a black smug mark against the left sanction on their lyrik? My lyrik is new and I noticed this the other day. The shop said that the seal might be bad on one side. How is rock shox with CS.. any experiences?


I've had several experiences with SRAM customer service - they have stepped up and taken care of the problem with service above and beyond what might have been expected or warranted in each case.

Have your shop give them a call if there is a problem.


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## 123ski (Jun 16, 2008)

I like the Enduro Seals for that fork personally:

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id207.html


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## hugh_b (Feb 20, 2009)

Hi everyone, purchased some 2011 Lyrik RC2 DH 170mm coils today to go on a new nukeproof frame. I have since found out that some 160mm forks would have been better. 

I'm tempted to return them tomorrow, pay the extra and get the 160mm solo air's.

How do the airs compare to coil and do they include a travel adjust spacer?

Thanks

Hugh


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

hugh_b said:


> Hi everyone, purchased some 2011 Lyrik RC2 DH 170mm coils today to go on a new nukeproof frame. I have since found out that some 160mm forks would have been better.
> 
> I'm tempted to return them tomorrow, pay the extra and get the 160mm solo air's.
> 
> ...


You can make the airs almost as sensitive as the coils, but then they will have a tendency to blow through their travel. If you want them to be as supportive as the coil you have to add pressure which will make them less sensitive and also harder to use all travel.

Of course that applies to most air vs. coil shocks, but also to the Lyriks.


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## Gman086 (Jul 4, 2004)

hugh_b said:


> Hi everyone, purchased some 2011 Lyrik RC2 DH 170mm coils today to go on a new nukeproof frame. I have since found out that some 160mm forks would have been better.
> 
> I'm tempted to return them tomorrow, pay the extra and get the 160mm solo air's.
> 
> ...


What did you pay for your Lyrik? I'd be interested in working out a swap for your coil assembly and my 160mm Solo Air assembly. Personally I think the Solo Air is better/more plush when set at the right sag but will blow thru the travel on big drops as dropadrop pointed out. I need it for Freeriding so I'd rather have the 170 coil version. Mine is a 160 converted to the DH dampers. The Solo Air is about a half a pound lighter too so it's a better choice for AM style riding. If you're planning to do the same as me (mainly FR) then just keep the coil version and pull the spacer to get 160mm travel.

Have FUN!

G


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## dropadrop (Sep 20, 2005)

Personally I think the coils work better on trail too, not just for FR. Also, I don't think the extra 10mm will make a big difference in regards to geometry, just use an internal headset and you'll end up with the same HA.


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## hugh_b (Feb 20, 2009)

Thanks guy's. I swapped the forks today with the shop and I have a 10mm spacer to fit. Unfortunately the forks i can buy cheapest in the UK are tapered steerer which fit my frame but the headset required has to have an external bottom cup which is 15mm deep.

I've saved a bit of weight too.

Thanks

Hugh


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## hugh_b (Feb 20, 2009)

Just need to clarify something with you guys...I have read a few things on the net stating i shouldn't use the clip on 10mm travel adjuster spacer to drop the forks by 10mm.

Can anyone confirm this as it's what was included with a set of 2011 blackbox revs?

I have seen a doughnut shaped spacer which would slide onto the shaft and possibly has holes in?...the same as the thin one in this pic:










Thanks
Hugh


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## cscsw (May 29, 2011)

i can only find Lyrik RC2 DH coil/solo air 170 here. It seems that Sram stopped producing the u-turn version.
Do you think i can covert the coil version to u-turn 160?
what parts do i need?


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

I've only ever seen U-turns with the DH dampers where someone upgraded a non-DH U-turn with the DH damper and rebound cartridges. Some guy had one on pinkbike long ago that was supposedly from the factory with both DH and U-turn, but that's the only one I've ever seen like that for sale, new or used. 

I was told by a SRAM tech that you can't covert the 160/170 DH (Solo air or coil) to a U-turn b/c it takes different lowers. No idea if that is true.

About a year ago I upgraded my old U-turn to the DH damper and rebound carts like I mentioned above. Works great. Only reason I am trying to sell mine is to get a Lyrik DH Solo Air and make my rig a bit lighter. The DH damper is worth it's weight in gold IMHO.


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## cscsw (May 29, 2011)

Thanks mate

It would be an expensive upgrade. Also its hard to sell the replaced parts


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