# Chainsaw Carrier Recomendations?



## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

What are people doing for hauling a chainsaw on their mountain bike? 

I've come across the MacKenzie Chainsaw Pack, which look like an option they are fairly pricey.

I've also seen attachments for ATV's and dirtbikes that may be easily adapted to a MTB with a rear rack...


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## sick4surf (Feb 4, 2004)

We use a BOB trailer, it's big enough to also carry gas mix, chain oil and other tools.

IMBA has a special deal for affiliated clubs to get them for near cost.

http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/trailers.php

Nashbar has this one on sale for $99 for a limited time. Not sure how construction compares to BOB.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...oretype=&estoreid=&pagename=Show All Products

I extend our capacity by putting a plastic milk crate in the bed, then use lots of bungies.

Don't forget the safety equipment:

http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/drilldown_pages/view_category.asp?cat=204

Chain saw chaps will stop the blade in a second before it cuts into your leg too deep.


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## x-ker (Jul 12, 2006)

Check out the builders pack by Dakine

link
review (by nsmb)
for sale (at pricepoint)

*edit* Picture taken from the nsmb review


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

Thanks sick4surf, we have 2 bob trailers now, but my saw usually gets covered in mud when I pull it around in there.

The dakine pack looks like it would work great! Thanks x-ker...


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## mnwfrank (Feb 2, 2006)

I have a BOB that I have used and just (three days ago) received a Dakine Builder bag. I am pretty excited to use it, but I have to say that it seems as though chainsaw pocket was built for a pretty small saw (Of course, that photo from NSMB proves me wrong!) We have a Stihl 250 which isn't that big but the hand guard doesn't fit completely in the hole and the handle doesn't slide down as well as I hoped. Its certainly better than some of the rigged set ups I have seen and the construction of the bag is great. 
For our BOB, we built a wooden box set up with tie downs and also slots for a Pulaski and a McCloud. It works pretty well, but I don't know about mud.

_edit_ I just went and read the NSMB review, I think I'll back off on the smack talk until I have the bag in the woods. I guess its just bar envy or something...


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## Wrench Monkey (Sep 23, 2007)

I have a backpack that I line with cardboard on the bottom and against my back. I also use a bob trailer. I cut down a broken bike fender and put it on the bob,it works well. I also use bungy cords to support the saw,it helps to absorb shock to the saw. Let me know if you want a photo of the fender.


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## sick4surf (Feb 4, 2004)

You can always put the chain saw in a garbage bag to protect from the mud. The dakine pack looks cool.


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## zrm (Oct 11, 2006)

I use a BOB and carry my saw inside its case to protect it. I dunno, but I would never carry a saw on my back while riding a bike.The thought of having the blade, even if it had some kind of shield over it makes me shiver. Not to mention I personally don't like lots of weight on my back while riding and my smaller saw, a Sthil 026 with an 18" bar, is more weight than I'd want to carry but that's just me, some folks are fine with heavy back packs. I'd rather use the trailer.. 

I do have an old external frame backpack withoutthe bag that I can rig up with bungees and cam straps to carry awrkward loads like a saw for hiking which I usually do if I have less than tree or four miles.


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## th29 (Nov 4, 2004)

This might be a useful link:

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/98232812/index.htm


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

th29 said:


> This might be a useful link:
> 
> http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/98232812/index.htm


That looks like a decent idea. I had come across that article shortly after starting this thread.

Keep the ideas coming...


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## flash5twelve (Nov 7, 2007)

When I was a wildland fire fighter, we made our own. It was a simple scabbard to be worn on the back like a backpack. The saw was carried bar down with the power head between the shoulder blades. We used scrap fire hose for the bar, and some heavy plastic as a frame. We riveted old pack straps to it and it was good to go.

It worked well with the motor up, because we carried all of the rest of our gear on on web gear belt. The swamper carried a pack with fuel, bar oil, and tools.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures.


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## mudflap (Feb 23, 2004)

Don't forget, you can always take the bar and chain off of the powerhead and carry your saw that way. Drop the PH into the bottom of your pack, slide the bar in alongside it along with the chain (off of the bar) and you have a much more consolidated package with no exposed sawchain protruding out to lacerate your tires, arms or legs in case of sudden dismounts.
Reassembly only takes a few minutes and also gives you time to look over your clutch, drivers and oil port to ensure all is in working order.
Here is a tip from me, an old log cutter from Idaho: if you've ever pinched your saw in a cut to the point where it is stuck fast, carrying an extra old bar and chain may save the day for you. Just remove the PH from pinched bar and reassemble with extra bar and chain and you are back in business. Beats chopping with an axe or going for another saw.


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## BigAirGar1 (Feb 24, 2008)

The Co-Op also has tons of packs at a reasonable price. I have the one with dual carbon spines for support and load it with about 75lbs (nails, tools, food, water, saw) for large days. Its pretty beat down now but has served me well for 5 years or so.


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## roguehoe (Nov 27, 2007)

I also use a milk crate in a BOB trailer....I cut a couple of slots in the crate and the saw slides down into it....has worked well for 2 years. Even with the saw in the crate, there is room for some fuel, oil, etc.


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## Visicypher (Aug 5, 2004)

for mud...mount a fender on the arm that connects the BOB to your bike AND put a fender on the BOB trailer itself...for its wheel. Hope that makes sense.


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## Wiz (Dec 2, 2004)

*Ski specific packs & their on sale now*

I use my (old) Dakine Chute. Any ski pack w/sleeves (or even Daisey chains) works great. They are tough & don't rip like lite fast packs. You can load em w/everything, slip the handle end in the lower loop (binding area) then strap the bar end diagonally with the adjustable tip strap. I got a picture somewhere. Works awesome & convenient for multiple quick stop-N-gos. To keep it stable;e, a little webbing never hurts & setting web length w/loops and carabiners is a snap. Leaves plenty of room for fuel, tools & beers. Trailer is sweet, however not for my general work clearing multiple blow downs on ST.

You can never have enough packs anyway, I could use 5 more. 

Gotta look for that photo, pretty hardcore even the hunters were avoiding me...Rrrrr!


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## RXL (Feb 8, 2008)

Here's my carrier mounted on the back of my winter/ trail maintenance bike.








A chunk of poplar, spare tube, some hockey tape, handful of copper roof nails, a saw guard, and a couple of carriage bolts/ wingnuts for easy removal.


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## greg de taos (Jul 23, 2007)

the final idea is sweet. you still using this set up?


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## Sasquatch (Dec 23, 2003)

Here's a similar set-up that our local USFS trails crew uses. Note the fuel filled water bottles, and the block of wood giving extra height for the use of the long bar. It's simple, but works if you're not trying to haul ass downhill.


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## Err (Mar 21, 2005)

I use an old Dakine Heli-Pro pack to carry my saw. Using the snowboard straps, I point the blade down and run the upper strap around the handle and the lower strap around the blade (inside a scabbard). I can fit a McLeod and a Pulaski on the outside of the pack as well with room inside for extra fuel (MSR fuel bottle), bar oil, chain, spark plug, wrench, gloves, water, food and, of course, beer. I tend to work on trails that would be pretty hard to get down with a Bob otherwise, that would be a nice option.


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## RXL (Feb 8, 2008)

greg de taos said:


> the final idea is sweet. you still using this set up?


thanks. used it this morning to clear some deadfall.


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

RXL said:


> thanks. used it this morning to clear some deadfall.


Thanks everyone for the pics! I think my winter project will be to build a couple of these.^


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## Trail Ninja (Sep 25, 2008)

A rectangular plastic waste basket (like in an office) in the bottom of your pack will keep anything from "eating" through. Put a little padding between it and your back. It will keep spilled fuel from burning your skin too.


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## Chips n Beer (Sep 14, 2008)

I like the idea of using the rack th hold the saw it's slick.

One way Ive been using a 12 foot long webbing and my chaps to tie the saw to my back. Start with putting the saw on the ground with the brake plate up. Slide the webbing under so equal lenghts and on each side. Fold up the chaps and put them on the flat brake plate and secure with a simple over hand knot, just like when you start to tie your shoes. grab the webbing on either side of the saw and get it against your back. The saw hangs bar down with the motor between my shoulder blades. The two free ends of webbing go over your shoulders, around your back and then secure in the front with a square knot. Over time the straps can get tight, but no to the point where I have to readjust. I use this for big saws and long distances.

The second way is using one or two dog leashes. Tie one to the cross bar and then to the handle. Ware it like a sling and adjust it so its comfortable. I use this method when I have alot of cutting. The second leash a second leash can be tied to the cross bar and then secured in the front, this can help keep the saw in one place. I like dog leashes cause you can always find them on trails, and they have thousands of uses.

Both these methods can be used to cary hand tools.

For a good scabard go to the local fire departments and ask for scrap 2 1/2 inch hose. Offer beer or fatty foods and they are more likely to find stuff laying around they don't need. This will slide over most saw bars. Use an old shoe lace to tie it to the cross bar or it can fall off.


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