# Endur Outboard Bearing Tool Review



## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

My SS XT non drive side bearing started to squeak loudly when pedaling so I figured it was time to break out the handy Enduro bearing replacement tool and replace the bearings. As designed, Shimano's outboard BB bearings are not user serviceable. They are a throwaway item at $50 each. If you do a lot of deep water crossings, ride in mud and rain or improperly wash your bike, that can add up to a lot of replacements annually. The Enduro tool IS expensive at over $100 for the set and each bearing set (which is superior to the OEM bearings because it has "bigger balls") is around $15 a pair but since it will last longer, I'm guessing you can recoup your investment within a season or two of riding (less if you have multiple bikes with the outboard bottom bracket design).

Step 1- Remove the cups from the frame. It's easier to do this with the Enduro cup removal tool since it engages the cup fully instead of the delivered Shimano tool which mars the cups and doesn't provide nearly enough leverage for cups that have been torqued to spec.









Step 2- Gather your tools and parts together. In this example, I'm only showing how to do the non drive side cup (it's the same process for either cup). The only other tool I needed that did not come with the Enduro is an 8mm Allen.









Step 3- Put the cup face down (threads up) on a flat surface and drop the collet into the cup. Insert the collet expander into the collet until you hear it "snap" into place. 

























Side view of the collet expander into place









Bottom view showing the collet expander and collet. The collet expander is what pushes the bearing out of the cup on the next step.









Step 4- Pressing out the bearing.
Place the cup into the cup holder and thread in the bolt with an 8mm allen until you feel the bearing drop out of the cup.

























Remove the bearing from the cup holder and set it aside. Shimano's bearings have an O-ring that goes around the plastic cover/shim. Make sure you collect this and set it to the side.
Clean the cups thoroughly.

























Step 5- Install the new Enduro bearing. The Enduro bearing has a smaller ID (24mm vs 25mm) which means you don't need the plastic cover shim that came on the OEM bearing.









Place the new bearing into the 24mm Bearing Guide (the other side of the tool is for the 25mm Bearings).









Place the bearing guide with the bearing into the cup holder









Put the bearing cup into the cup holder face down (threads up).

















Place the support piece on the cup threads.

















Thread the 8mm bolt through and press the new bearing into the cup until tight.








Pressed in.

















Coat the inside of the cup with some grease and put the orange seal on and reinstall on your BB shell and torque to spec. Don't forget grease (or in my case, anti-seize or ti-prep) on your bb threads.

















Only eagle eyed folks can tell it's an Enduro bearing inside after you're finished.









Overall a great tool from a company with great service! I emailed Chris late last night with a question and had an answer when I woke up!


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## flipnidaho (Aug 10, 2004)

Optional Step- Instead of throwing away the old bearings, why not rebuild them and save them for the next bearing replacement (or for emergencies).
Using a very small screwdriver, pry off the dust shield shim from the bearing. Work slowly all the way around as to not break this plastic piece as it can be brittle.
Here is what the dust shield/shim looks like.









Using a dental pick, pry the bearing covers off being careful not to damage the seal. Inspect the grease inside. In my example, the grease has broken down into something that is the consistency of dried out Elmer's glue... Not good...









Clean the old grease out using a degreaser or wd40 and an air compressor (or old toothbrush will work just as well) to blow out or scrub all the old grease out (You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner).
After the part has dried, replace with grease. In this case, I just use old lithium grease since it's cheap and it works really well when/if the bearing sees any time underwater.








In this picture, I've actually overpacked the bearing with too much grease. I cleaned some of it off to ensure smooth action (too much grease is almost as bad as not enough grease as it creates a lot of friction).









Snap the bearing seals back into place.

Slightly grease the inside of the bearing and the inside of the dust shield/shim and slowly and evenly press into place. Don't forget to reinstall the O-ring that goes on the outside of the dust shield/shim.









Check to make sure the bearing spins freely. Coat with a little bit of grease to prevent any rusting and store for the next time.


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## KavuRider (Sep 22, 2004)

Great post, very informative.
Thank you!
I just replaced the bearings on my Saint Cranks...yup, $50. 
Like most repairs, investing in the tools seems steep up front, but it pays off in the long run.


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## PissedOffCil (Oct 18, 2007)

I removed the bearings on my Truvativ GXP BB last weekend by using a simple centering punch and I pressed them back by using my headset press. Cheaper but I have been tempted to buy that tool. I figured I would be better off with a general puller and press for sealed bearings after all and reported the purchase.


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## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

I've always wanted to do a bearing replacement when the time came, I've got this one bookmarked now. One of the best technical threads I've ever seen, great photos and description. Thanks a million.


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## Diesel~ (Feb 17, 2008)

Great photos and description; thanks for posting.


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## themanmonkey (Nov 1, 2005)

Looks like a nicer, and easier to use, tool than the Phil Wood version I've used. Thanks for the walkthrough.


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## Hand/of/Midas (Sep 19, 2007)

and since 1 ride in mud destroys bearings with the crappy seals on all the retarded outboard cranks ive ever rode, ive done this alot! cant wait for bb30 to catch on more.

i still prefer my 1 pair of isis cranks over my 4 pairs of outboards.

you did do a great job on clearly explaining this process, high five.


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## wyrm (Jan 19, 2004)

Ya my shop was skeptical when I told them about it... now they are always using it. We have a ton of Roadies come in by word of mouth to get new ceramic bearing pressed in. Takes about 15 min to do if you get efficient about it. 

I do have to say that the GPX stuff is a pain since you have to buy a stupid shim.


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## SBK (Oct 18, 2006)

I recently purchased the Enduro bottom bracket press kit as outlined above _(but I went with the Park cup install/removal tool for some $$ savings)_ and I'm really impressed. As shown above in flipni's review, it's a super high quality tool. Even doing it my first time only took about 10 minutes total to do both bearings _(my cups weren't on the bike, they were having the bearings replaced in preparation for a new build)_ - it's super easy and very straightforward to use.

Two thumbs up from me :thumbsup: :thumbsup: for the ABI Enduro press tool!


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